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GRF" 


B/EDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS 

m  T-(T-»Trn  a  t-vt       ^•j.i,     i  /?    "»«• o/\  "m —  J 


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MajNUAI^  Ut  UUIN  Vl^.JtlSATlurN,  111  lour  langiiag 


^his  book  is  DUE  on  the  las* 


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GREAT  BRITAIN 


\ 


GREAT  BRITAIN 


HANDBOOK  FOH  TEAVELLERS 


K.  BAEDEKER 


WITH  16  MAPS,  30  PLANS,  AND  A  PANORAMA 


FOURTH  EDITION 
Revised  and  Augmented 


LEIPSIC :  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LO^'DOxN:  DULAU  AND  CO.,  37  SOUO  SOL  ARE,  W. 
1897 

^•1//  rights  reserved. 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call. 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 


STACK  ANNEX 

PREFACE. 


The  Handbook  to  Great  Britain,  which  now  appears  in 
a  fourth  edition,  is  intended  to  help  the  traveller  in  planning 
his  tour  and  disposing  of  his  time  to  the  best  advantage,  and 
thus  to  enable  him  the  more  thoroughly  to  enjoy  and  appre- 
^   elate  the  objects  of  interest  he  meets  with.  The  writer  is  3fr. 
N?.  J.  F.  Muirheacl,  M.A.,  who  has  for  many  years  taken  part  in 
li^   the  preparation  of  the  English  editions  of  Baedeker's  Hand- 
books, and  has  personally  visited  the  greater  part  of  the  dis- 
>^  tvicts  described. 

>A         No  one  is  better  aware  than  the  Editor  himself  of  the  im- 

\.   perfections  almost  inseparable  from  the  early  editions  of  a 

^   guide-book.   For  the  improvement  of  this  work,  however,  he 

confidently  and  gratefully  looks  forward  to  a  continuance  of 

those  valuable  corrections  and  suggestions  with  which  trav- 

ellers  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  favouring  him.    Hotel- 

i^ bills,  with  annotations  showing  the  traveller's  opinion  as  to 

^  his  treatment  and  accommodation,  are  particularly  useful. 

The  fourth  edition  of  the  Handbook  to  Great  Britain  has 
«^  been  carefully  revised  and  brought  down  to  date.  The  descrip- 
tion of  London  is,  of  course,  only  a  brief  abstract  of  the  most 
^^  important  points,  summarized  from  the  Editor's  separate 
Handbook  to  London;  while  the  section  devoted  to  Scot- 
land, though  carefully  brought  down  to  date  so  far  as  it  goes, 
is  still  so  condensed  as  to  form  merely  a  stop-gap  for  the  spe- 
cial Scottish  volume  which  the  Editor  hopes  to  publish  on 
some  future  occasion. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  Handbook  the  Editor  has  re- 
ceived most  material  aid  from  numerous  English  friends.  In 
particular  he  desires  to  express  his  acknowledgments  to  the 
Deans  of  the  English  and  Welsh  cathedrals ;  to  several  re- 
sident members  of  the  Universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge; 
to  Professor  Klrkjiatrick  of  Edinburgh;  to  the  Rev.  Robert 
Gwynne,  B.A.;  to  the  late  Rev.  W.  S.  Lach-Szyrma  ifor  data 
on  Cornwall);  to  Professor  Tout  of  Manchester;  to  Professor 
Campbell  Brown  of  Liverpool;  to  the  superior  officials  of  most 
of  the  leading  Railway  Companies;  and  to  3fessrs.  Baddeley 
and  Ward,  whose  'Thorough  Guides'  may  be  recommended 


vi  PREFACfe. 

to  those  in  search  of  more  detailed  information  regarding  any 
particular  district.  The  Introductory  Sketch  of  Architecture 
in  England ,  from  the  pen  of  the  late  Professor  Edivard  A. 
Freeynan,  also  materially  enhances  the  value  of  the  Handbook. 

On  the  Maps  and  Plans  the  Editor  has  bestowed  special 
care,  and  he  believes  that  they  will  often  render  material  ser- 
vice to  the  traveller,  and  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  ascertain 
his  bearings  and  select  the  best  routes. 

Hotels.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate,  not 
only  the  first-class  hotels,  but  others  also  of  more  modest 
pretensions,  which  may  be  safely  selected  by  the  'voyageur 
en  gargon',  with  little  sacrifice  of  comfort  and  great  saving  of 
expenditure.  Those  which  the  Editor  has  reason  to  believe 
good  of  their  class  are  denoted  by  asterisks;  but  doubtless 
there  are  many  of  equal  excellence  among  those  that  are  un- 
starred.  Although  changes  frequently  take  place,  and  prices 
generally  have  an  upward  tendency,  the  average  charges 
stated  in  the  Handbook  will  enable  the  traveller  to  form  a 
fair  estimate  of  his  expenditure. 

To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy 
towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  commen- 
dation, and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly 
excluded  from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned 
against  persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Bae- 
deker's Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 

R.  =  Room;  A.  =  Attendance;  B.  =  Breakfast;  D.  =  Din- 
ner; L.  =  Luncheon.  —  N.  =  North,  Northern,  etc.;  S.  = 
South,  etc. ;  E.  =  East,  etc. ;  W.  =  West,  etc.  —  M.  =  Engl, 
mile ;  ft.  =  Engl,  foot ;  min.  =  minute ;  hr.  =  hour.  —  Z.  =  pound 
sterling;  s.  =  shilling;  d.  =  pence;  g.  =  guinea  (21  shillings). — 
L.N.W.R.  =  London  &  North  Western  Railway;  G.W.R.  =  Great 
Western  Railway ;  N.B.R.  =  North  British  Railway,  and  so  on.  ■ — 
E.E.  =  Early  English  (architecture);  Dec.  =  Decorated;  Perp.  = 
Perpendicular. 

The  letter  d  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates 
the  year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of 
a  place  shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles 
placed  before  the  principal  places  on  railway-routes  indicates  their 
distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 
I.  Money.     Travelling  Expenses.     Passports.      Custom 

House.    Time xvii 

II.  Routes  to  and  from  England xvili 

III.  Railways,  Coaches,  and  Steamboats xx 

IV.  Plan  of  Tour.    Excursions  on  Foot xxii 

V.  Hotels xxii 

VI.  Sports  and  Pastimes xxiv 

VII.  Outline  of  English  History xxvi 

VIII.  Wales  and  the  Welsh  Language xxx 

IX.  Bibliography       xxxi 

Historical  Sketch   of  Architecture   in  England,    by 

Edward  A.  Freeman xxxiii 

Ancient  Monuments,  by  General  Pitt  Rivers  ....  Ixii 

Route  Page 

1.  London 1 

2.  From  London  to  Dover 12 

a.  South  Eastern  Railway  via  Tunbridge  and  Folkestone       12 

Knole.  Chevening,  13.  —  From  Tunbridge  to  Eedhill 
.Junction.  Penshurst  Place,  13.  —  From  Paddock  Wood 
to  Hawkhurst,  14.  —  From  Ashford  to  Canterbury. 
Hythe,  14. 

b.  London,   Chatham,   and  Dover  Railway  via  Canter- 
bury          17 

Hayes  Place.  Cesar's  Camp.  Holwood,  17.  —  Gad's  Hill, 
Cobliam  Hall,  21.  —  From  Faversham  to  Margate  and 
Ramsgate.  Reculver,  23.  —  Goodwin  Sands.  From 
Ramsgate  to  Richborough,  Sandwich,  and  Deal,  24.  — 
From  Canterbury  to  Ramsgate^  to  Shorncliffe,  32. 

■  3.  From  London  to  Maidstone 33 

West  or  Town  Mailing.    Boxley  Abbey.   Leeds  Castle,  35. 

4.  From  London  to  Hastings 35 

Excursions  from  Tunbridge  Wells,  36.  —  From  Tun- 
bridge Wells  to  Ea'^tbourne.  Bodiam  Castle.  Battle 
Abbey,  37.  —  Normanhurst,  38.  —  From  Hastings  to 
Rye  and  Ashford,  -41. 

5.  From  London  to  Eastbourne.    Newhaven 42 

From  I- ewes  to  Newhaven,  42. 

G.   From  London  to  Brighton 43 

From  Croydon  to  Sanderstead.  Addingtou,  and  Wick- 
ham,  44.  —  From  East  Croydon  to  Lewes.  From  Merst- 
ham  to  Chipstead  and  to  Reigate.  From  Reigate  to 
Guildford,  45.  —  Worth.  Hustpierpoint  Park,  47.  — 
Excursions  from  Brighton,  The  Devil's  Dyke.  From' 
Brighton  to  Hastings,  51. 


viii  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

7.  From  Brigliton  to  Cliirliester  and  Portsmoutli 52 

From  Shoreham  to  Horsliam,  52.  —  Goodwood.  Box- 
grove,  55.  —  Porchester.  From  Portsmouth  to  South- 
ampton, 59. 

8.  From  London  to  Dorking  (Guildford)  and  Ford  ....        59 

Environs  of  Dorking,  From  Dorking  to  Guildford  on  foot, 
60.  —  From  Pulborough  to  Midhurst  and  Chichester,  61. 

9.  From  London  to  Portsmoutli C2 

Environs  of  Guildford,  64.  —  From  Haslemere  to  the 
Hindhead.     From    the    Hindhead    to   Farnham,    65.    — 

Selborne,  65. 

10.  Isle  of  Wight 66 

From  Ryde  to  Quarr  Abbey  and  Fishbourne,  67.  —  From 
Ryde  to  Newport;  to  Ventnor.  Bembridge,  68.  —  From 
Venlnor  to  Freshwater  Bay  and  Alum  Bay,  70.  —  From 
Newport  to  Yarmouth  and  Freshwater.  From  Yarmouth 
to  Southampton,  72.  —  From  Newport  to  Cowes,  73. 

11.  From  London  to  Winchester  and   Southampton.     New 

Forest 74 

Aldershot.  Farnham,  75.  —  Hursley.  Utterbourne,  79.  — 
F»-om  Bishopstoke  to  Stokes  Bay,  79.  —  Netley  Abbey. 
From  Southampton  to  Salisbury  \'  to  Andover  .Junction, 
82    —  Beaulieu  Abbey,  b3. 

12.  The  Channel  Islands 84 

Guernsey,  86    —  Alderney.  Sark,  89.  —  Jersey,  90. 

13.  From   Southampton  to  Bournemouth,   Dorchester,   and 

Weymouth 94 

Lymington,  96.  —  (Jorfe  Castle,  96.  —  Swanage.  Pur- 
beck  Island.     Portland  Island,  97. 

14.  From  London  to  Salishury  and  Exeter 98 

Old  Sarum.  Stonehenge,  100. —Wilton.  Longford  Castle. 
Fonthill  Abbey.  Shaftesbury,  lOi.  —  Lyme  Regis.  Char- 
mouth,  102.  —  Excursions  from  Exeter.  From  Exeter 
to  Exmouth ;  to  Barnstaple,  105. 

15.  From  London  to  Bath  and  Bristol 106 

From  Reading  to  Basingstoke,  Silchester.  Strathfields- 
aye,  106.  —  From  Reading  to  Bath  via  Devizes  and 
Bradford-on-Avon,  107.  —  The  Ridge  way.  The  Blowing 
Stone.  White  Horse  Hill,  107,  108.  —  From  Swindon  to 
Marlborough  and  Andover  Junction.  Avebury  Circle. 
Silburv  Hill.  From  Swindon  to  Cirencester  and  Chelten- 
ham, iOi.  —  Bowood,  109.  —  From  Bath  to  Wells;  to 
Gloucester;  to  Templecombe;  to  Salisbury,  113.  — 
From  Bristol  to  Portishead ;  to  Avonmouth;  to  Severn 
Tunnel  Junction:  to  Frome,  121. 

16.  From  Bristol  to  Exeter.    Wells 122 

Clevedon.  From  Yatton  to  Wells,  122.  —  Glastonbury, 
125.  —  Sedgemoor.  Nether  Stovvey.  (juantock  Hills,  127. 
—  From  Taunton  to  Minehead ;  to  Barnstaple,  lli:8. 

17.  From  Exeter  to  Plymouth 129 

a.  Great  Western  Eailway 129 

From  Newton  Abbot  to  Bloreton  Hampstead;  to  Torquay 
and  Dartmouth,  130.  —  Kenfs  Cavern.  Anstey's  Cuve. 
Babbacombe.    Compton  Castle.     Bri.vham,  132.  —  From 


CONTENTS.  1  ^ 

Route  Page 

Dartmoutb  up  tlie  Dart  to  Totnes.  Salcoinbe,  133.  — 
Berry  Pomerov  Castle.  From  Tutnea  to  Ashburton.  Kings- 
bridge,  134. 

b.  South  Western  Railway 135 

From  Lidford  to  Launceston;  to  Plymouth  by  Great 
Western  Piailwav,  135.  —  From  Yelverton  to  Princetown, 
135.  —  DartmooV  Forest,  136.  —  Cbagford,  137.  —  Ex- 
cursions from  Plymouth,  141-143. 

18.  From  Plymouth  to  Truro  and  Penzance.  Falmouth.    .    .      143 

Looe.  Polperro.  St.  Neofs.  Dozmare  Pool,  143,  141.  — 
From  Par  to  Fowey,  144.  —  From  Truro  to  Falmouth. 
Pendennis  Ca-tle.  From  Falmouth  to  Helston,  145.  — 
The  Lizard,  146.  —  St.  Ives.  St.  Michael's  Mount,  148.  — 
From  Penzance  to  Laniorna  and  the  Logan  Rock,  149.  — 
From  Penzance  to  St.  Buryan  and  the  Logan  Rock.  The 
Land's  End,  l-oO.  —  From  Penzance  to  St.  Just;  to  St. 
Ives.  151.  —  The  Scilly  Isles,  152. 

19.  From  Exeter  to  AVadebridge  and  Newquay 152 

a.  Great  Western  Railway 15'2 

From  Bodmin  Road  to  Wadebridge,  1.52. 

b.  South  Western  Railway 153 

From  Halwill  Junction  to  Bude.  Ilolsworthy,  153.  — 
From  Wadebridge  to  Padstow,  15 i. 

20.  From  Camelford  to  Bideford 155 

From  Tintagel  to  Eosca^tle  by  the  Cliffs,  156.  —  Mor- 
wenstow,  157.  —  Hartland.  Lundy,  159.  —  Westward  Ho. 
Appledore.     Torrington,  160. 

21.  From  Bideford  to  Barnstaple  and  Ilfracombe 160 

From  Ilfracombe  to  Lee  and  Morthoe,  162. 

22.  From  Ilfracombe  to  Lynton  (Lynmouth)  and  Minehead    .      163 

a.  By  Road 163 

Exmoor  Forest,  164.  —  Dunkery  Beacon,  165. 

b.  By  the  Coast 165 

Duty  Point,  166.  —  From  Lynmouth  to  Watersmeet, 
Rockford,  and  the  Doone  Valley,  167.  —  Simonsbath,  168. 

23.  From  London  to  Gloucester  and  Hereford.    Valley  of  the 

Wye 170 

From  Kemble  to  Cirencester  and  to  Tetbury,  170.  — 
KyminHill.  Raglan  Castle.  Usk,176.  —  Caldicot  Castle. 
Forest  of  Dean,  177.  —From  Hereford  to  Shrewsbury,  18'. 

24.  From  Bristol   to  Gloucester,    Cheltenham,    Worcester, 

Birmingham,  and  Derby 181 

Thornbury,  181.  —  Berkeley,  182.  —  Environs  of  Chelten- 
ham. Tewkesbury,  183.  —  Deerhurst,  184.  —  From 
Worcester  to  Shrewsbury,  187.  —  From  Worcester  to 
Oxford.  188.  —  Tutbury^  190. 

25.  From  Worcester  to  Hereford  and  Newport 190 

Worcester  Beacon.  Eastnor  Park,  191.  —  From  Ledbury 
to  Gloucester.  Sugarloaf.  Blorenge,  192.  —  Crickliowell, 
193. 

26.  From  Gloucester  to  Cardiff.  Swansea,  and  Milford  ...      193 

Penarth.  From  Cardiff  to  Caerphilly  and  Rhvninev  Bridge. 
From  Cardiir  to  Merthyr  Tydvil,  195.  —  Llantwi't  Major. 


^  CONTENTS. 

P.oute  Page 

St.  Donafs  Castle,  197.  —  From  Keatli  to  Merthyr  Tydvil. 
Vale  of  Neath,  19S.  —  From  Swansea  to  the  Mumbles, 
199.  —  The  Gower  Peninsula,  200.  —  From  Whitland 
to  Cardigan.     Fish;j,uard.     Picton  Castle,  203. 

27.  From  Hereford  to  Brecon  and  Swansea 204 

From  Three  Cocks  Junction  to  Moat  Lane,  20i.  —  Pen-y- 
Crug.  Frwdgrech  Waterfalls.  Brecon  Beacons.  From 
Devynock  to  Llandovery,  206. 

28.  From  Craven  Arms  to  Llandrindod,    Llandovery,    and 
Carmarthen 207 

Vale  of  Towy.  Carmarthen  \  an,  2U8.  —  Uynevor  Castle. 
From  Llandilo  to  Llanelly  and  Swansea.  From  Car- 
marthen to  Aberystwith,  209. 

29.  From  WMtland  to  Tenby  and  Pembroke 210 

Llawhaden  Castle.  210.  —  From  Tenby  to  Penally;  to 
Sanndersfoot,  211.  —  Carew  Castle.  Cliff  Walk  from 
Tenbv  toLvdstep  Caverns  and  Manorbier.  212.  —  Stackpole 
Court.    St.'  Govan^s  Head.     The  Stack  Rocks,   213,   214. 

30.  From  Haverfordwest  to  St.  David's 214 

31.  From  London  to  Oxford 217 

a.  Great  Western  Hallway  via  Didcot 217 

From  Radley  to  Abingdon,  217. 

b.  Great  Western  Railway  via  Maidenhead   and   High 
Wycombe 218 

Hughenden  Manor,  218. 

c.  London  and  North  Western  Railway 218 

From  Verney  Junction  to  Banbury,  218. 

32.  From  Oxford  to  London  by  the  Thames 219 

33.  Oxford 224 

Excursions  from  Oxford.  Woodstock.  Blenheim.  Stanton 
Harcourt,    Cumnor  Hall,  2il.  —  Godstow  Nunnery,  242. 

34.  From  Oxford  to  Leamington,  Warwick,  and  Birmingham. 
Kenilworth 242 

Edgehill.   Sulgrave,  243. —  From  Leamington  to  Coventry, 
243,  —  From  Warwick    to  Kenilworth  by  road,  245.  — 
Stoneleigh  Abbey,  246. 
st^  35.  From  Warwick  to  Stratford-on-Avon 247 

a.  By  Railway 247 

b.  By  Road 247 

36.  From  London  to  Verney  Junction  via  Harrow  andAylesbury     251 

Chess  Valley.     Chenies.     Chesham,   252.   —  Brill,  253. 

37.  From  London  to  Birmingham  via  Rugby  and  Coventry   .     253 

Dravton  Beauchamp.  Mentmore.  From  Leighton  to 
Dunstable  and  Luton.  Woburn  Abbey,  254.  —  From 
Northampton  to  Market  Harborough;  to  Peterborough, 
256.  —  From  Rugby  to  Leamington,  to  Market  Har- 
borough, and  to  Leicester,  256.  —  Whitley  Abbey. 
Combe  Abbey.  From  Coventry  to  Nuneaton,  258.  — 
From  Birmingham  to  Lichfield-,  to  Walsall,  263. 

38.  From  Birmingham   to   Shrewsbury   via  Wolverhampton 

and  Wellington 263 


v/y 


wv 


CONTENTS.  ^^ 

Route  Page 

From  Swan  Village  to  Dudley.  From  Dudley  to  Stour- 
bridge and  Kidderminster,  263.  —  Boscobel.  From  Wol- 
verhampton to  Stafford,  265.  —  From  Wellington  to  Market 
Drayton,  265.  —  Environs  of  Shrewsbury.  Wroxeter,  267. 

39.  From  Shrewsbury  to  Aberystwith.    Central  Wales   .    .    .      267 

Powys  Castle,  267.  —  Breidden  Hills.  From  Welshpool 
to  Oswestry  and  Gobowen.  Offa's  Dyke,  268.  —  From 
Machynlleth  to  Corris.  Plinlimmon.  From  Machynlleth 
to  Llanfihangel  by  road.  From  Glandovey  Junction  to 
Barmouth,  269.  —  From  Glandovey  to  Machynlleth 
by  the  Llyfnant  Glen  and  Pistyll-y-Llyn,  270.  —  Environs 
of  Aberystwith.    Devil's  Bridge,  271. 

40.  From  Slire'W'sl}ury  to  Chester 271 

a.  Via  Whitchurch 271 

b.  Via  Ruahon 272 

From  Wrexham  to  Ellesmere;  to  Birkenhead  and  Liver- 
pool, 273.  —  Excursions  from  Chester.   Eaton  Hall,  28<3. 

—  Hawarden.  Beeston  Castle.  From  Chester  to  Mold  and 
Denbigh,  281.  —  From  Chester  to  Manchester  via  War- 
rington or  via  Northwich,  281. 

41.  North  Wales 282 

a.  From  Chester  to  Bangor  and  Carnarvon.    Llandudno. 
Anglesey 283 

Dvserth  Castle.  Bodelwvddan.  From  Ehvl  to  Corwen, 
284.  —  Fairy  Glen.    Dwygyfylchi,  239.  —  Aber  Glen,  290. 

—  Penrhvn  Castle  and  Quarries.  Bethesda.  Carnedd 
Dafydd.  Carnedd  Llewelyn,  291,  292.  -  Menai  Bridges. 
Isle  of  Anglesey,  293. 

b.  From   Carnarvon  to  Afon  Wen,    Port  Madoc,    and 
Barmouth 296 

From  Nantlle  to  Snowdon  Station  and  Quellyn  Lake. 
Clynnog.  From  Afon  Wen  to  Pwllheli.  Lleyn  Promon- 
tory, 297.  —  Cwm  Bychan.  Rynogs.  Bwlch  Drws  Ar- 
dudwy,  298.  —  Panorama  Walk.  Llanaber  and  Cors-y- 
GedoL     Road  from  Barmouth  to  Dolgelley,  300. 

c.  From  Barmouth  to  Dolgelley,  Bala,  Llangollen,  and 
Chester 301 

Ascent  of  Cader  Idris  from  Arthog,  301.  —  Excursions 
from  Dolgelley.  Torrent  Walk.  Precipice  Walk.  Tvn- 
v-Groes,  Rhaiadr-Du,  and  Pistyll-y-Cain ,  302-30i.  — 
Ascents  of  Cader  Idris  from  Dolgelley,  30 i  305.  —  The 
Arans,  306.  —  Lake  Vyruwy.  From  Bala  to  Ffestiniog, 
307.  —  Excursions  from  Llangollen.  Dinas  Bran  Castle. 
Moel-y-Geraint.  Plas  Newydd,  309.  —  Valle  Crucis 
Abbey.  Eliseg's  Pillar.  Moel-y-Gamelin.  Eglwyseg 
Rocks,  310.  —  Chirk  Castle.     Wynnstay,  311. 

d.  From  Llandudno  to  Bett\vs-y-Coed  and  Ffestiniog  .     311 

Environs  of  Bettws-y- Coed.  Capel  Garmon.  Swallow 
Falls.  Moel  Siabod.  Fairy  Glen,  etc.,  313,  814.  —  From 
Bettws-y-Coed  to  Bangor.  Nant  Ffrancon,  314.  —  Ex- 
cursions from  Ffestiniog.  Cvnfael  Falls.  Tomen-y-Mur. 
Rhaiadr-Du.  Raven  Fall,  3i6.  —  From  Blaenau  Ffest- 
iniog to  Port  Madoc  by  the  Narrow  Gauge  Railway,  318. 

e.  From  CarnarvoTi  to  Llanberis  and  Bett\v5-y-Coed  .    .      318 


X"  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  by  the  Mountain  Tramroad.  From 
Llanberis  to  the  Snowdon  Ranger,  319.  —  From  Llan- 
beris  to  Bethesda,  320. 

f.  From  Carnarvon  to  the  Snowdon  Ranger,  Rhyd-Ddu, 

and  Beddgelert 321 

From  Beddgelert  to  Port  Madoc;  to  Ffestiniog,  323.  — 
Ascent  of  Moel  Hebog,  324. 

g.  Snowdon 324 

Ascent  from  Llanberis,  325.  —  Ascent  fiom  Capel  Curi^. 
Ascent  from  Beddgelert  and  Snowdon  Station,  326.  — 
Ascent  from  Beddgelert  via  Nant  Gwynant.  Ascent  from 
the  Snowdon  Ranger,  327. 

42.  From  Chester  to  Birkenhead  and  Liverpool 328 

From  Liverpool  to  Birkenhead,  Xew  Brighton,  Hoylake, 
and  West  Kirby.  Knowsley.  Childwall  Hall.  Croxteth 
Hall.  Speke  Hall.  From  Liverpool  to  Preston  and  to 
Southport,  336. 

43.  From  Liverpool  to  Manchester 337 

a.  Via  Newton-le-Willows 337 

b.  Via  Warrington  and  Glazebrook 337 

c.  Via  Atherton 338 

The  Manchester  Ship  Canal.  From  Blanchester  to  Bolton 
and  Blackburn.  Whalley.  Stonyhurst.  Valley  of  the 
Ribble,  314.  —  From  Manchester  to  Bury  and"  Bacup  ; 
to  Oldham;  to  Rochdale  and  Halifax;  to  Hudderstield 
and  Leeds ;  to  London  via  Crewe ;  to  London  via  Derbv, 
344-346. 

44.  The  Isle  of  Man 34G 

45.  From  Liverpool  to  London 351 

a.  Via  Crewe  and  Rugby 351 

From  Crewe  to  Chester;  to  Uttoxeter,  351.  —  From  Ut- 
toxeter  to  Macclesfield.  From  Crewe  to  Whitchurch, 
352.  —  From  Staflord  to  Shrewsbury;  to  Uttoxeter;  to 
Wolverhampton,  353.  —  From  Lichlield  to  Walsall;  to 
Derby,  356. 

b.  Via  Matlock  and  Derby 35G 

Bradgate  Park.  Bardon  Hill.  From  Leicester  to  Meltnn 
Mowbray;  to  Burton,  360.  —  From  Kettering  to  Hun- 
tingdon and  Cambridge:  to  Oakham  and  Nottingham, 
3(3L  —  Elstow.  From  Bedford  to  Northampton ;  to  Cam- 
bridge; to  Hitchin;  to  Bletchley,  363. 

c.  Via  Sheffield,  Grantham,  and  Peterborough  ....      365 

From  Sheffield  to  Buxton,  367.  —  The  Dukeries.  Sher- 
wood Forest,  36S.  —  Stamford,  369.  —  Crowland  Abbey. 
From  Peterborough  to  Sutton  Bridge,  370.  —  St.  Ives. 
Hatfield  House.     Hertford,  371. 

d.  Via  Shrewsbury,  Birmingham,  and  Oxford   ....      371 

46.  The  Derbyshire  Peak 371 

47.  From  Liverpool  or  Manchester  to  Carlisle 380 

From  Preston  to  Blackpool  and  Fleetwood.  Morecambe. 
Kendal,  331.  —  Eden  Hall.  From  Penrith  to  Keswick. 
Cockermouth.  and  Workington,  332.  —  Great  Roman 
Wall,  3SB.  —  From  Carlisle  to  Maryport;  to  Silloth.  384. 


CONTENTS.  ^iii 

Route  Page 

48.  From  Cainforth  to  Ulverston,  Windermere  (Lake  Side), 

Furness  Abbey,  and  Whitehaven 384 

From  Ulverston  to  Lake  Side,  384. 

49.  The  Lake  District 385 

a.  Windermere  Section 386 

From  Bowness  to  Coniaton,  388.  —  Coniston  Old  3Ian. 
.  Uuddon  Valley,  389.  —  From  Coniston  to  Dungeon  Gill. 
From  Windeiinere  to  Ambleside,  Grasmere,  and  Keswick, 
390.  —  From  Ambleside  to  Coniston,  392,  —  The  Lang- 
dales,  393.  —  Helvellyn.  From  Grasmere  to  Ullswater ; 
to  Borrowdale.     From  Windermere  to  nisvvater,  395. 

b.  Ullswater  Section 396 

From  Patterdale  to  Hawes  Water.  Mountain  Ascents 
from  Patterdale,  398. 

c.  Keswick  and  Derwentwater  Section 399 

Circuit  of  Pervventwater,  400.  —  From  Keswick  to 
Buttermere.  401.  —  From  Keswick  to  Thirlmere  bv  the 
Vale  of  St.  John;  to  Dungeon  Gill  by  the  Stake  JPass; 
to  Patterdale,  403,  404.  —  From  Keswick  to  Wasdale 
Head,  404,  405.  —  Mountain  Ascents  from  Keswick  (Skid- 
daw,  etc.),  406. 

d.  Wast  Water  and  Soafell  Section 407 

Ascent  of  Scafell  Pike,  4aS. 

50.  From  London  to  Sheffield,  Leeds,  and  Carlisle    ....     408 

Hardwick  Hall.  Bolsover  Castle,  409.  —  Kirkstall 
Abbey.  From  Leeds  to  Ilkley ,  Otley ,  Bolton  Abbey, 
and  Skipton,  410.  —  From  Leeds  to  Bradford  and  Halifax ; 
to  Selby;  to  York.    Haworth,  411.  —  Ingleton,  412. 

51.  From  London  to  York,  Durham,  Newcastle,  and  Berwick       412 

From  York  to  Harrogate.  From  Pilmoor  to  Malton.  to 
Pickering,  and  to  Knaresborough.  Eievaulx  Abbey,  416. 
—  From  Northallerton  to  Stockton  and  Hartlepool ;  to 
Leyburn  and  Hawes.  Wensleydale,  417.  —  From  Dar- 
lington to  Barnard  Castle  and  Tebay.  High  Force,  418.  — 
Finchale  Priory.  Brancepeth  Castle.  From  Durham  to 
Sunderland;  to  Bishop  Auckland,  420,  421.  —  Jesmond 
Dene.  Tynemouth  and  the  Tyne.  Alnwick  Castle.  Aln- 
mouth,  Bamborough,  421.  —  Chillingham.  Lindisfarne,  425. 

5'2.  From  Carlisle  to  Newcastle 425 

Naworth  Castle.  Lanercost  Priory,  425.  —  The  Roman 
Wall,  426. 

00.  From  York  to  Scarborough  and  Whitby 4*26 

Oliver's  Mt.  Filey.  Bridlington  Quay.  Flambi>rou£:h 
Head,  428.  —  From  Whitby  to  Saltburn  and  Redcar,  429. 

54.  From  Leeds  to  Harrogate,  Kipon,  and  Thirsk 429 

From  Ripon  to  Fountains  Abbey,  431. 

55.  From  York  to  Beverley  and  Hull 432 

Hornsea.     From  Hull  to  l^arnsley,  433. 

56.  From  Hull  to  Lincoln  and  Nottingham 433 

Great  Grimsby.  Cleethorpes,  434.  —  From  Lincoln  to 
Boston:  to  Gainsborouuh.  Southwell,  437.  —  Newstead 
Abbey.    Wollaton  Hall^  439. 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

Koute  Page 

57.  From  London  to  Cambridge 439 

Edmonton.  Enfield.  Saffron  Walden,  439.  —  Grant- 
chester.    Madingley.     Cherry  Hinton,  448. 

58.  From  Camtridge  to  Ely  and  Hunstanton 448 

From  Ely  to  Thetford  and  Norwich,  449.  —  From  Hun- 
stanton to  Wells,  450. 

59.  From  London  to  Colchester,  Ipswich,  and  Norwich     .    .     450 

Little  Maplestead.  Sudbury,  451.  —  Clacton-on-Sea. 
Walton-on-the-Naze.  452.  —  Felixstowe,  453.  —  Caistor 
St.  Edmund.  Heigham.  From  Norwich  to  Yarmouth; 
to  Cromer;  to  Fakenham  and  Lynn,  455. 

60.  From  London  to  Lowestoft  and  Yarmouth 456 

Lowestoft.  Oulton  Broad,  456.  —  The  Norfolk  Broads, 
457.  —  From  Yarmouth  to  North  Walsham,  468. 

61.  From  Cambridge  to  Newmarket  and  Bury  St.  Edmunds  .     458 

62.  From  London  to  Tilbury  and  Southend 459 

Scotland. 

I.  Travelling  Expenses.    Hotels 460 

IL  Railways,  Coaches,  and  Steamers 460 

III.  Plan  of  Tour 461 

IV.  Outline  of  Scottish  History 462 

V.  Notes  on  the  Gaelic  Language    .        464 

63.  From  London  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow 464 

a.  Yia  Leicester,  Leeds,  and  Carlisle 464 

From  St.  Boswells  to  Kelso  and  Berwick.  Jedburgh, 
465.  —  Abbotsford,  466.  —  Dryburgh.  From  Galashiels 
to  Selkirk.  St.  Mary's  Loch.  From  Galashiels  to 
Peebles,  467. 

b.  Via  York,  Newcastle,  and  Berwick 468 

Coldingham.  St.  Abb's  Head.  Fast  Castle,  468.  —  Ex- 
cursions from  North  Berwick.  Bass  Rock.  Tantallon 
Castle,  469.  -  Musselburgh,  470. 

c.  Via  Crewe  and  Carlisle 470 

Birrenswark.     Environs  of  Moffat,  470. 

d.  By  Sea 471 

64.  From  Carlisle  to  Dumfries  and  Stranraer 471 

Lincluden  Abbey.  Caerlaverock  Castle.  Sweetheart  Abbey. 
Criffel.  From  Dumfries  to  Glasgow,  472.  —  Kirkcud- 
bright.    From  Newton  Stewart  to  Whithorn,  473. 

65.  Edinburgh 474 

Excursions  from  Edinburgh.  Craigmillar  Castle.  Cor- 
storphine.  Blackford  Hill.  Pentland  Hills.  Eoslin.  Haw- 
thornden.    Dalkeith.     Queensferry,  484,  485. 

66.  From  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow 485 

a.  North  British  Railway 485 

b.  Caledonian  Railway 486 

Excursions  from  Glasgow.  Hamilton.  Bothwell.  Falls 
of  Clyde.  Paisley.  Ayr.  Arrochar.  Gareloch.  Loch- 
goilhead.  Rothesay.  Ardrisliaig.  Arran.  Campbeltown. 
Inveraray.    Loch  Awe.     Belfast,  etc.,  490  -  492. 


CONTENTS.  XV 

Eoute  Page 

V^GT.  From  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  via  Loch  Lomond ,   Loch 

Katrine,  and  Stirling 493 

Ascent  of  Ben  Lomond.  Ardlui,  493. — Falls  of  Bracklin. 
Ben  Led],  494.  —  Bannockburn.  Cambuskenneth.  Abbey 
Craig.    From  Stirling  to  Kinross  ^  to  Aberfoyle,  495,  496. 

—  From  Glasgow  to  the  Trossachs  via  Aberfoyle,  498. 

68.  From  Glasgow  to  Oban.   Western  Scotland 496 

Lochgilpbead,  From  Ardrisbaig  to  Oban  via  Loch  Awe. 
498.  —  Excursions  from  (Jban.  DunstatTnage.  StafTa  and 
lona.  Taynuilt  and  Loch  Awe.  Loch  Awe  and  Melfiirt. 
Circular  Tour  by  Glen  Etive,  Loch  Etive,  and  Glencoe 
to  Ballachulish,  and  back  by  Loch  Linnhe.  The  Isle  of 
Skye,  etc.,  499-501.  —  From  Oban  to  Glasgow  bv  rail- 
way, 502. 

69.  From  Oban  to  Inverness  by  the  Caledonian  Canal  .    .    .     502 

Glencoe,  5u2.  —  Ascent  of  Ben  Is^evis,  503.  —  Excursions 
from  Inverness.  Craig  Phadrig.  Culloden.  Loch  Maree 
and  Gairloch.  Stornoway,  etc.  From  Inverness  to  Aber- 
deen, 505.  —  Peterhead,  5C6. 

70.  From  Glasgow  to  Fort  William  (Inverness) 506 

71.  From  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen 507 

a.  North   British  Railway,  via  the  Forth  Bridge  and 

Fifeshire^ 507 

St.  Andrews,  508. 

b.  Caledonian  Railway  via  Perth  and  Forfar 510 

Crieff.  Comrie,  510.  —  Kinnoul  Hill.  Scone  Palace. 
From  Perth  to  Dundee.  From  Forfar  to  Kirriemuir  and 
Edzell,  511. 

c.  Via  Perth,  Blair  Atholl,  and  Braemar 512 

Ben  Muich-Dhui,  Cairngorm.  Lochnagar.  From  Braemar 
to  Blairgowrie  through  Glenshee,  513. 

72.  From  Edinburgh  to  Inverness 516 

From  Dunkeld  to  Aberfeldy.  From  Aberfeldy  to  Loch 
Tay  and  Callander.  Ben  Lawers.  From  Pitlochry  to 
Rannoch,  617.  —  From  Boat  of  Garten  to  Egin  and  to 
Keith,  518. 

73.  From  Inverness  to  Thurso  and  Wick 519 

Falls  of  Kilmorack.  Struy.  Glen  Afl'ric.  Falls  of  the 
Glomach.  Fortrose.  Cromarty.  From  Dingwall  to 
Strathpeffer  and  to  Strome  Ferry,  519.  —  Dornoch. 
From  Lairg  to  Loch  Inver;  toScourie;  to  Tongue,  520. 

—  Thurso.     John  o'  Groat's  House,  521. 

74.  From  Gairloch  to  Ullapool,   Loch  Inver,   Durness,  and 

Thurso 522 

75.  The  Orkney  and  Shetland  Islands 524 

1.  The  Orkney  Islands 624 

2.  The  Shetland  Islands 526 

Index 527 


MAPS  AND  PLANS. 


Maps. 

1.  Kailway  Map  of  England   and  Wales:   before  the   title- 

page. 

2.  The  Envieons  of  London:  RR.  1,  2,  3,  6,  9,  15,  36,  37,  45, 

57,  59,  62;  p.  12. 

3.  The  Enyibons  of  Doeking  and  Guildfobd  :  RR.  8,  9;  p.  64. 

4.  The  Isle  of  Wight:  R.  10;  p.  65. 

5.  The  Channel  Islands:  R.  12;  p.  84. 

6.  The  North  Coast  of  Dbyon:  RR.  20,  21,  22;  p.  163. 

7.  The  Valley  of  the  Wye  :  R.  23 ;  p.  175. 

8.  The  Environs  of  Stkatfobd-on-Avon  :   RR.  34,  35;  p.  247. 

9.  The  Valley  of  the  Conway  :  R.  41 ;  p.  312. 

10.  Snowdonia  :  R.  41 ;  p.  324. 

11.  The  Debbyshibe  Peak:  RR.  46,  45b;  p.  372. 

12.  The  Lake  Distbict  :   R.  49 ;  p.  385. 

13.  Railway  Map  of  Scotland  :  p.  460. 

14.  The  Environs  of  Edinburgh  :  R.  65  ,  p.  484. 

15.  Loch  Lomond  and  the  Trossachs  :  R.  67;  p.  492. 

16.  Key  Map  of  Great  Britain,  after  the  Index. 


Plans. 

1.  Railway  Plan  of  London  (p.  1);  2.  Canterbury  Cathe- 
dral (p.  27) ;  3.  Brighton  (p.  48) ;  4.  Chichester  Cathedral 
(p.  54);  5.  Portsmouth  (p.  55);  6.  Winchester  Cathedral 
(p.  76);  7.  Salisbury  Cathedral  (p.  99);  8.  Bath  fp.  114);  9. 
Bristol  (p.  115);  10.  Wells  Cathedral  (p.  115);  11.  Torquay 
(p.  138);  12.  Plymouth  (p.  139);  13.  Gloucester  Cathedral 
(p.  174);  14.  Worcester  (p.  184);  15.  Worcester  Cathedral 
(p.  185);  16.  Oxford  (p.  225);  17.  Kenilworth  Castle  (p.  246); 
18.  Birmingham  (p.  258);  19.  Chester  (p.  274);  20.  Chester 
Cathedral  (p.  275);  21.  Liverpool  (p.  328);  22.  Manchester 
(p.  338);  23.  Lichfield  Cathedral  (p.  354);  24.  York  Minster 
(p.  416);  25.  Durham  Cathedral  (p.  417);  26.  Lincoln  Ca- 
thedral (p.  435);  27.  Cambridge  (p.  440);  28.  Ely  Cathedral 
(^p.  441);  29.  Edinburgh  (p.  474):  30.  Glasgow  (p.  486). 
Panorama  from  Snowdon,  p. 325. 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.    Money.  Expenses.  Passports.  Custom  House.  Time. 

Money.  In  Great  Britain  alone  among  the  more  important  states 
of  Europe  the  currency  is  arranged  without  much  reference  to  the 
decimal  system.  The  English  Gold  coins  are  the  sovereign  or 
pound  (I.  =  libra,  livre)  equal  to  20  shillings,  and  the  half-sover- 
eign. The  Silver  coins  are  the  crown  (5  shillings),  the  half-crown, 
the  double  florin  (4  shillings ;  seldom  seen),  the  florin  (2  shillings), 
the  shilling  (s.  =  solidus),  and  the  sixpenny  and  threepenny  pieces. 
The  Bronze  coinage  consists  of  the  penny  (d.,  Lat.  denarius),  of 
which  12  make  a  shilling,  the  halfpenny,  and  the  farthing  (1/4^.). 
The  Guinea,  a  sum  of  215.,  though  still  used  in  popular  reckon- 
ing, is  no  longer  in  circulation  as  a  coin.  A  sovereign  is  approxi- 
mately equal  to  5  American  dollars,  25  francs,  20  German  marks, 
or  10  Austrian  florins  fgold).  The  Bank  of  England  issues  notes 
for  5,  10,  20,  50,  and  100  pounds,  and  upwards.  These  are  useful 
in  paying  large  sums  ;  but  for  ordinary  use,  as  change  is  not  always 
readily  procured,  gold  is  preferable.  The  number  of  each  note  should 
be  taken  down  in  a  pocket-book,  as  there  is,  in  this  case,  a  bare 
possibility  that  it  may  be  traced  and  recovered,  if  lost  or  stolen. 
The  notes  of  certain  provincial  banks  circulate  locally,  and  in  Scot- 
land the  place  of  the  sovereign  is  very  generally  taken  by  the  one- 
pound  notes  of  several  privileged  banks,  which  circulate  freely 
throughout  the  country.  Foreign  Money  does  not  circulate  in  Eng- 
land, and  it  should  always  be  exchanged  on  arrival,  A  convenient 
and  safe  mode  of  carrying  money  from  America  or  the  Continent  is 
in  the  shape  of  letters  of  credit,  or  circular  notes,  which  are  readily 
procurable  at  the  principal  banks.  A  larger  sum  than  will  suffice  for 
the  day's  expenses  should  never  be  carried  on  the  person,  and  gold 
and  silver  coins  of  a  similar  size  (e.g.  sovereigns  and  shillings) 
should  not  be  kept  in  the  same  pocket. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  a  visit  to  Great  Britain  depends  of  course 
on  the  habits  and  tastes  of  the  traveller.  If  he  frequents  first-class 
hotels,  travels  first-class  on  the  railways,  and  systematically  prefers 
driving  to  walking,  he  must  be  prepared  to  spend  30-405.  a  day  or 
upwards.  Persons  of  moderate  requirements,  however,  will  have 
little  difficulty,  with  the  aid  of  the  information  in  the  Handbook, 
in  travelling  comfortably  with  a  daily  expenditure  of  20-255..  while 
the  pedestrian  of  moderate  requirements  may  reduce  his  expenses 
to  10-155.  per  diem,   or  even  less  in  some  of  the  remoter  districts. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britaini   4th  Edit.  b 


xviii  PASSAGE. 

Passports  are  not  necessary  in  England,  though  occasionally 
useful  in  procuring  delivery  of  registered  and  poste  restante  letters. 

Custom  House.  Almost  the  only  articles  likely  to  be  in  the 
possession  of  ordinary  travellers  on  which  duty  is  charged  are  spirits 
and  tobacco,  but  a  flask  of  the  former  and  V2^b.  of  the  latter  are 
allowed  for  private  use.  Three  pounds  of  tobacco  may  be  passed 
on  payment  of  a  duty  of  5s.  per  pound,  with  the  addition  (in  the 
case  of  cigars)  of  a  slight  fine  for  the  contravention  of  the  law  for- 
bidding the  importation  of  cigars  in  chests  of  fewer  than  10,000. 
Foreign  reprints  of  copyright  English  books  are  liable  to  confis- 
cation. The  custom-house  examination  is  generally  lenient.  — 
Dogs  are  not  at  present  allowed  to  land  in  Great  Britain  without  a 
licence  previously  obtained  from  the  Board  of  Agriculture  (4  White- 
hall Place.  London,  S.W.). 

Time.  Uniformity  of  time  throughout  GreatBritain  is  maintained 
by  telegraphic  communication  with  Greenwich  Observatory.  In  Ire- 
land, Dublin  time  is  observed. 

II.    Boutes  to  and  from  England. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  principal  routes  from  Great  Britain 
to  America  and  to  the  Continent,  which  may  prove  serviceable  to 
travellers  in  either  direction.  The  times  and  fares  are  liable  to 
alteration.  On  the  Atlantic  steamers  fares  are  reduced  during  the 
winter-season,  and  children  under  12  are  generally  charged  half-fare. 

Koutes  to  England  from  the  United  States  of  America  and  from  Canada. 

Cunard  Line.  A  steamer  of  this  company  starts  every  Sat.  and  every 
second  Tues.  from  New  York  and  every  Sat.  from  Boston  for  Queens- 
town  and  Liverpool.  Saloon-fare  60-175  dollars,  according  to  accommoda- 
tion and  season.  Steamers  from  Liverpool  for  New  York  every  Sat.  and 
every  second  Tues.,  for  Boston  every  Thursdav.  Saloon  -  fare  12-35^.  — 
London  Offices:    93  Bishopsgate  St.,  E.C.,  and  13  Pall  3Iall,  S.W. 

White  Star  Line.  Steamer  every  Wed.  from  New  York  to  Queenstown 
and  Liverpool.  Saloon  60-175  dollars.  From  Liverpool  to  New  York  every 
Wednesday.  Saloon  12-35/.,  return  24-70?.  5  second  cabin  81.  iOs.  —  London 
Office:  34  Leadenhall  St.,  E.G. 

American  Line.  Every  Wed.  from  New  York  to  Southampton;  saloon 
from  75-100  dollars.  From  Southampton  to  New  York  every  Sat.  at  noon; 
fare  from  15-20/.  Also,  from  Philadelphia  to  Liverpool  every  Sat.,  and  from 
Liverpool  to  Philadelphia  every  Wednesday.  Second  cabin  from  11.  5«., 
return-ticket  from  14?.  London  Offices:  116  Leadenhall  St.,  E.G.,  and  3 
Cockspur  St.,  S.W. 

North  German  Lloyd  Line.  From  New  York  to  Southampton  every  Tues. 
and  every  Thurs.  in  summer;  from  Southampton  to  New  York  every  Wed. 
and  every  Mon.  in  summer;  first  saloon  from  15/.,  second  saloon  from  10/. 
London  Offices:  2  King  William  St.,  E.G.,  and  32  Gockspur  St.,  S.W. 

Hamburg -American  Line.  From  New  York  to  Plymouth  every  Thurs. ; 
saloon  112'/2-275  dollars;  second  cabin  60-75  dollars.  From  Southampton 
to  New  York  on  Frid.  ;  saloon  from  20/.  London  Offices :  22  Gockspur  St., 
S.W.,  and  158  Leadenhall  St.,  E.G. 

Anchor  Line.  From  New  York  to  Glasgow  on  Sat. ;  from  Glasgow  to 
New  York  on  Thurs.  ;  saloon  from  ^gs..  second  cabin  from  6i.  10». 

Allan  Line.  From  Liverpool  every  Thurs.  to  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and 
every  alternate  Sat.  from  Liverpool  to  St.  .John's  and  Halifax.  Saloon  iO-2Qgs. 
Also  services  from  Glasgow  and  London  to  Canada  and  the  United  States. 


PASSAGE.  '^i^ 

Dominion  Line.  From  Liverpool  weekly  in  summer  to  Quebec  and 
Montreal;  in  winter  from  Liverpool  fortnightly  to  Halifax  and  Portland. 
Saloon  i0-20gs.     Also  from  Liverpool  to  Boston  regularly.     Saloon  15-30^. 

Leyland  Line.  From  Liverpool  weekly  to  Boston.  Saloon  passengers 
only;  fare  from  lOi. 

Warren  Line.  Steamer  'Canada'  from  Liverpool  regularly  to  Boston. 
Saloon-fares  from  lOZ. 

Atlantic  Tran^jwri  Line.  From  London  to  New  York  every  Thurs. ; 
returning  every  Sat.    Saloon  passen^^ers  only;  fares  10-22^5. ;  return  19-42/. 

The  average  duration  of  the  passage  across  the  Atlantic  is  6-10  days. 
The  best  time  for  crossing  is  in  summer.  Passengers  should  pack  clothing  and 
other  necessaries  for  the  voyage  in  small  flat  boxes  (not  portmanteaus),  such 
as  can  lie  easily  in  the  cabin,  as  all  bulky  luggage  is  stowed  away  in  the 
hold.  State-room  trunks  should  not  exceed  3  ft.  in  length.  2  ft.  in  breadth, 
and  15  inches  in  height.  Dress  for  the  voyage  should  be  of  a  plain  and  ser- 
viceable description,  and  it  is  advisable,  even  in  midsummer,  to  be  pro- 
vided with  warm  clothing.  A  deck-chair,  which  may  be  purchased  at  the 
dock  or  on  the  steamer  before  sailing  (from  6s.  or  Is.  upwards),  is  a  luxury 
that  may  almost  be  called  a  necessary  (comp.  p.  329).  This  should  be  dis- 
tinctly marked  with  the  owner's  name  or  initials,  and  may  be  left  in  charge 
of  the  Steamship  Co.'s  agents  until  the  return-journey.  The  Ocean  Com- 
fort Co.,  represented  on  the  wharves  at  New  York  and  Liverpool,  lets  chairs 
at  is.  ($  1)  for  the  voyage,  and  the  American  Steamship  Co.  provides  its 
passengers  with  the  same  convenience  for  2^.  Seats  at  table,  retained 
throughout  the  voyage,  are  usually  assigned  by  the  Saloon  Steward  im- 
mediately after  starting;  and  those  who  wish  to  sit  at  a  particular  table 
or  beside  a  particular  person  should  apply  to  him.  It  is  usual  to  give  a 
fee  of  iOs.  (2V2  dollars)  to  the  table  steward  and  to  the  state-room  steward, 
and  small  gratuities  are  also  expected  by  the  boot-cleaner,  the  bath-steward, 
etc.  The  state-room  steward  should  not  be  'tipped'  until  he  has  brought 
all  the  passenger's  small  baggage  safely  on  to  the  landing-stage  or  tender. 

From  the  steamers  to  Snuthampton  (except  those  of  the  American  line 
which  enter  the  docks),  landing  is  efTected  with  the  aid  of  a  steam-tender. 

Routes  from  England  to  the  Continent.  The  following  are  the  favourite 
routes  between  London  and  the  Continent:  — 

From  Dover  to  Calais.,  thrice  daily,  in  I'/vl'Ahr.;  cabin  10«.,  steerage  85. 
(Railway  from  London  to  Dover,  or  vice  versd.,  in  1 V4-2V4  hrs. ;   see  R.  2). 

From  Folkestone  to  Boulogne,  twice  daily,  in  l'/2-2  hrs.;  cabin  8«.,  steerage 
6s.  (Railway  from  London  to  Folkestone  in'2-4  hrs. ;  fares  same  as  to  Dover, 
except  3rd  class,  which  is  6s.) 

From  Dover  to   Ostend.,  thrice  daily,  in  4-5  hrs.;  fares  8s.  6rf.,  6*.  Id. 

From  London  to  Ostend.,  twice  weeklv,  in  12  hrs.  (6  hrs.  at  sea); 
7s.  6rf.,  6s. 

From  London  to  Rotterdam.,  twice  a  week,  in  16-18  hrs.  (12  hrs.  at  sea); 
17s.  or  lis. 

From  Harwich  to  Hoek  of  Holland  and  Rotterdam.,  daily,  in  8-9  and  11- 
12  hrs.;  Great  Eastern  Railway  from  London  to  Harwich  in  1V-2-2V2  hrs. 
(fares  13s.  3d.,  5s.  111/2^.);  fare  from  London  or  any  Great  Eastern  station 
to  Rotterdam,  29s.  or  IBs. 

From  London  to  Antwerp.,  twice  or  thrice  weekly,  in  17-20  hrs.  (8-9  hrs. 
of  which  are  on  the  open  sea);  16«.  or  11<. 

From  Haricich  to  Antwerp.,  daily  (Sun.  in  summer  only),  in  12-13  hrs. 
(train  from  London  to  Harwich  in  li/2-2V'2  hrs.);  26<.  or  15s.  (from  any 
Great  Eastern  station). 

From  Harwich  to  Hamburg.,  twice  weekly  (train  from  London  to  Har- 
wich in  2-3  hrs.);  fares  from  London  U.  17s.  6d.,  1/.  5s.  9d. 

From  Harwich  to  Esbjerg  (Denmark),  thrice  weekly  in  30  hrs.  (from 
London  to  Harwich,  see  above);  fare  from  London,  1/.  17s.  6f/,  1/.  l.os. 

From  London  to  Bremen.,  twice  a  week,  in  86-40  hrs.;  25s.,  I5s. 

From  Queenborough  to  Flushing,  twice  daily  in  8  hrs.  (4  hrs.  at  sea); 
train  from  London  to  Queenborough  in  IV4  hr.,  from  Flushing  to  Amsterdam 
in  6-9  hrs.;  through-fare  36».  Id.  <>r  26s. 

b* 


XX  RAILWAYS. 

From  Newhaven  to  Dieppe^  daily,  in  5-7  hra.;  14s.  7d.,  il«.  id.  (Rail  from 
London  to  Kewhaven,  or  vice  versd,  in  2-3  hrs.;  fares  2s.  Qd.,  bs.  8d.,  4«.  Sd.) 

From  London  to  Hamburg,  thrice  weekly,  in  36-40  hrs.;  il.  10s.  or  il. 

P>om  Southampton  to  Havre,  every  evening  (except  Sun.),  in  7-8  hrs, 
(fares  23«.,  17s.).  Rail,  from  London  to  Southampton,  or  vice  versd,  .seeR.ll. 

From  Southampton  to  Bremerhaven .,  by  North  German  Lloyd  steamer 
(p.  xviii)  in  25  hrs.  ;  21.  10s.,  il.  10s. 

From  Flpnioyth  to  Cuxhaven  (Hamburg),  by  Hamburg-American  steamer 
(p.  xviii);  3Z.  10s.,  21.  10s. 

From  Southampton  to  Cherbourg.,  thrice  a  week  ;  20s.,  145. 

From  Southampton  to  St.  Malo,  thrice  a  week;  23s.,  17s. 

Steamers  also  ply  regularly  from  Hull  to  Norway.,  Sweden.,  Denmark.,  etc.  -, 
from  Grimsby  to  Hamburg .,  Antwerp.,  Rotterdam.,  Denmark.,  etc. ;  from  Leith 
to  Hamburg.,  Kmigsberg,  Noi'way.,  etc. ;  from  London  and  from  Liverpool  to 
Spain,  Portugal,  Egypt,  etc. 

On  the  longer  voyages  (10  hrs.  and  upwards),  or  when  special  attenlicm 
has  been  required,  the  steward  expects  a  gratuity  of  Is.  or  more,  according 
to  circumstances.  Food  and  liquors  are  supplied  on  board  all  the  steam- 
boats at  fixed  charges,  but  the  viands  are  often  not  very  inviting.  An  official 
Interpreter  accompanies  the  chief  trains  on  the  Dover  and  Folkestone  routes. 


III.  Railways.  Coaches.  Steamboats. 
Railways.  The  railway-system  of  Great  Britain  is  entirely  in 
private  hands,  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  traffic  being  mono- 
polised by  ten  or  twelve  large  railway-companies.  The  carriages 
(1st,  2nd,  and  3rd  class)  are  generally  clean  and  comfortable,  but 
those  of  some  of  the  lines  to  the  S.  of  London,  as  well  as  of  most 
of  the  minor  railways  still  surviving  throughout  the  country,  leave 
much  to  be  desired.  Several  of  the  chief  railway  companies  to  the 
N.  of  London  have  discontinued  the  use  of  second-class  carriages, 
with  the  effect  of  inducing  a  superior  class  of  travellers  to  use  the 
improved  third-class  accommodation,  especially  on  long  journeys. 
On  the  lunger  routes  'corridor  trains',  with  dining-cars  (dinner  Ss.  6c?., 
2s.6rf.),  somewhat  after  the  pattern  of  the  American  vestibule  trains, 
have  been  introduced ;  though  the  former  custom  of  halting  for  20 
-30  min.  at  a  halfway  station  for  dinner  has  not  yet  disappeared. 
Luncheon-baskets  (2s.  6d.-3s.)  may  also  be  obtained  at  the  prin- 
cipal stations.  Sleeping-oars  are  run  by  the  chief  night-trains;  and 
pillows  and  rugs  are  offered  for  hire  (Is.)  at  the  starting-points. 
Each  company  is  bound  by  Act  of  Parliament  to  run  at  least  one 
train  daily  ('parliamentary  train')  at  a  fare  (3rd  cl.)  not  exceeding 
Id.  per  mile;  but  the  3rd  class  fares  in  many  of  the  fast  trains  are 
considerably  in  excess  of  this  rate.  Return -tickets  are  usually 
granted  on  very  liberal  terms ;  and  circular  tour  tickets  and  special 
'tourist  return-tickets'  are  issued  in  all  the  districts  chiefly  fre- 
quented by  tourists  (comp.  pp.  282,  460).  The  N.E.  Railway  issues 
•1000  mile  railway-tickets'  (1st  cl.  only),  at  a  reduction  of  about 
20  per  cent,  entitling  the  purchaser  to  travel  for  12  months  in  any 
direction  over  the  company's  system  until  the  coupons  are  exhausted. 
Smoking  is  not  permitted  except  in  the  compartments  provided  for 
the  purpose.    The  speed  of  British  trains  is  usually  much  higher 


COACHES.  ^xi 

than  that  of  Continental  railways,  and  a  rate  of  40-50  M.  an  hour 
is  not  uncommon  (comp.  pp.  106,  464). 

On  all  the  English  lines  the  first-class  passenger  is  entitled  to  carrv 
112/6.  of  luggage  free,  second-class  80/6.,  and  third-class  60/6.  The  com"- 
panies,  however,  rarely  make  any  charge  for  overweight,  unless  the  excess 
is  exorbitant.  On  all  inland  routes  the  traveller  should  see  that  his  lug- 
gage is  duly  labelled  for  his  destination,  and  put  into  the  right  van,  as  other- 
wise the  railways  are  not  responsible  for  its  transport.  Travellers  to  the 
Continent  require  to  book  their  luggage  and  obtain  a  ticket  for  it,  after 
which  it  gives  them  no  farther  trouble.  Transatlantic  passt-ngers  also  are 
atlbrded  facilities  for  'checking'  their  baggage  to  and  from  the  steamers. 
The  railway  porters  are  nominally  forbidden  to  accept  gratuities,  but  it  is 
a  common  custom  to  give  2d-Qd.  to  the  porter  who  transfers  the  luggage 
from  the  cab  to  the  train  or  vice  versa. 

Travellers  accustomed  to  the  formalities  of  Continental  railway  ofiicials 
may  perhaps  consider  that  in  England  they  are  too  much  left  to  themselves. 
Tickets  are  not  invariably  checked  at  the  beginning  of  a  journey,  and 
travellers  should  therefore  make  sure  that  they  are  in  the  proper  com- 
partment. The  names  of  the  stations  are  not  always  so  conspicuous  as 
they  should  be  (especially  at  night);  and  the  way  in  which  the  porters 
call  them  out,  laying  all  the  stress  on  the  last  syllable,  is  seldom  of  much 
assistance.  The  officials,  however,  are  generally  civil  in  answering  ques- 
tions and  giving  information.  In  winter  foot-warmers  with  hot  water  are 
usually  provided.  It  is  'good  form'  for  a  passenger  quitting  a  railway- 
carriage  where  there  are  other  travellers  to  close  the  door  behind  him, 
and  to  pull  up  the  window  if  he  has  had  to  let  it  down  to  reach  the 
door-handle. 

Bi'adshaiv''s  Railway  Guide  (monthly;  Qd.)  is  the  most  complete;  but 
numerous  others  (the  ABC  Railuaij  Guide,  etc.),  claiming  to  be  easier  of 
reference,  are  also  published.  Each  of  the  great  railway-companies  pub- 
lishes a  monthly  guide  to  its  own  system  (price  l-2d.). 

Coaches.  In  some  of  the  most  frequented  tourist-districts,  such 
as  Wales,  the  Lakes,  Devon,  and  Cornwall,  coaches  with  two  or 
four  horses  run  regularly  in  the  season ,  affording  a  very  pleasant 
mode  of  locomotion  in  fine  weather.  In  some  places  (e.g.  between 
Camelford  and  Bideford ;  R.  20)  coaches  afford  the  only  regular 
communication.  Coaches  also  ply  from  London  to  various  points 
in  the  vicinity.  The  coaches  are  generally  well-horsed  and  the  fares 
reasonable.  The  best  places  are  on  the  box-seat,  beside  the  driver, 
■who  usually  expects  a  small  gratuity.  —  The  regular  charge  for 
one-horse  carriages  is  Is.  per  mile,  carriage-and-pair  Is.  6rf.-2s. 
per  mile  (half-fare  in  returning;  i.e.  the  one-horse  carr.  fare  to  a 
point  10  M.  off,  and  back,  should  be  about  15s.);  driver  extra. 

Steamboats.  Steamboats  play  by  no  means  so  important  a 
part  in  the  tourist-districts  of  England  and  Wales  as  they  do  in 
those  of  Scotland  (see  p.  461);  but  lovers  of  the  sea  will  And  no 
difliculty  in  indulging  their  taste,  as  the  coasts  of  England  are 
alive  with  steamers  plying  between  the  various  ports.  In  summer 
steamers  run  between  the  chief  sea-bathing  resorts  and  the  near- 
est large  towns,  and  small  pleasure-steamers  ply  on  some  of  the 
lakes  in  the  Lake  District  and  on  a  few  of  the  prettier  rivers,  par- 
ticularly in  the  S.  of  England  (comp.  pp.  133,  141,  145,  456). 

Steamers  to  the  Isle  of  Man,  seep.  346;  to  Scotland,  see  p.  471 ; 
to  the  Isle  of  Wight,  see  p.  66;  to  the  Channel  Islands,  see  p.  84. 


IV.  Plan  of  Tour. 

The  plan  of  tour  must  depend  entirely  on  the  traveller's  taste 
and  the  time  he  has  at  his  disposal.  It  may,  however,  he  stated 
here  that  all  the  attractions  of  the  island  cannot  possibly  be  visited 
in  the  course  of  a  single  summer.  Among  the  most  attractive  dis- 
tricts are  the  English  Lakes  (R.  49);  Edinburgh  and  the  Scottish 
Highlands  (RR.  65,  67-7*2) ;  North  Wales  (R.  41) ;  Devon  and 
Cornwall  (RR.  17-22);  South  Wales  (RR.  26-30)  and  the  Valley 
of  the  Wye  (R.  23);  the  Shakespeare  Country  (RR.  34,  35);  the 
Derbyshire  Peak  (R.  46);  Surrey  (R.  8)  ;  the  Isle  of  Wight  (R.  10); 
and  the  Channel  Islands  (R.  12).  A  glance  at  the  map  will  show 
which  groups  can  be  most  easily  combined,  always  keeping  in  mind 
the  admirable  and  speedy  service  of  the  railway-system.  A  round 
of  the  English  cathedral  cities  makes  a  most  delightful  tour,  while 
a  visit  to  two  or  three  can  easily  be  added  to  an  excursion  in  any 
of  the  districts  above  named.  Among  the  more  important  cathe- 
drals may  be  mentioned  those  of  Canterbury  (p.  27),  Lincoln 
(p.  435),  York  (p.  414),  Salisbury  (p.  98),  Durham  (p.  419),  Ely 
(p.  448),  Gloucester  (p.  171),  Norwich  (p.  453),  Lidifleld  (p.  354), 
Peterborough  (p.  369),  Winchester  (p.  76),  and  Wells  (p.  123). 
Those  who  can  manage  it  should  not  omit  a  visit  to  either  Oxford 
(R.  33)  or  Cambridge  (R.  57),  or  both. 

The  pedestrian  is  unquestionably  the  most  independent  of  travellers, 
and  in  exploring  the  Scottish  and  Welsh  mountains  he  will  have  many 
advantages  over  the  traveller  by  rail  or  coach.  For  a  short  tour  a  couple 
of  flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers,  the  articles  of  the 
toiiet,  a  light  waterproof,  and  a  stout  umbrella  will  generally  be  found  a 
sufficient  equipment.  Strong  and  well-tried  bods  are  essential  to  com- 
fort. Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be  avoided;  a  light  pouch 
or  game-bag  is  far  less  irksome ,  and  its  position  may  be  shifted  at  plea- 
sure. A  m<  re  extensive  reserve  of  clothing  should  not  exceed  the  limits 
of  a  small  portmanteau,  which  may  be  forwarded  from  town  to  town  by 
railway.  The  sheets  of  the  Ordnance  Survey,  published  at  a  very  moderate 
price,  will  be  found  invaluable  for  the  pedestrian  (see  p.  xxxii).  —  For 
hints  to  cyclists,  see  p.  xxv. 

Good  mountain-climbing  may  be  obtained  in  Wales,  the  Lake  District, 
and  Scotland;  though  the  experienced  mountaineer  will  probably  meet 
with  no  serious  diflicully  unless  he  seek  it.  In  misty  or  doubtful  weather, 
however,  mountain-expeditions  should  never  be  attempted  w^ithout  a  guide, 
ifr.  W.  P.  Haskett  Smith's  'Climbing  in  the  British  Isles'  ('England'.  1894, 
3.<.  6c/.;  'Wales  and  Ireland',  1895,  25.  6f/.)  will  be  found  useful. 

V.    Hotels. 

The  flrst-class  hotels  in  the  principal  towns,  fashionable  water- 
ing places,  and  most  frequented  tourist-resorts  throughout  England 
and  Wales  are  generally  good  and  somewhat  expensive ;  but  in 
many  of  the  large  commercial  and  industrial  centres  the  require- 
ments of  the  'uncommercial  traveller'  are  very  inadequately  met. 
When  ladies  are  of  the  party,  it  is  advisable  to  frequent  the  best 
hotels,  as  the  charges  of  the  second-best  are  often  not  appreciably 
lower,    while    the    comforts    are    considerably    less.     Gentlemen 


HOTELS.  ^^^1^ 

travelling  alone,  however,  will  often  find  comfortable  accommo- 
dation at  a  moderate  rate  in  smaller  inns  of  quite  unassuming 
appearance.  —  Temperance  Hotels,  i.e.  houses  in  which  no  intoxi- 
cating liquors  are  supplied,  abound  throughout  the  country.  Their 
charges  are  moderate,  but  as  a  general  rule  their  cuisine  and  flitting 
up  do  not  entitle  them  to  rank  higher  than  second-class. 

The  average  charges  in  a  lirst-class  hotel  are  as  follows :  room  2s. 
6d.-45. ;  attendance  Is.  Bd.\  plain  breakfast  is.  Gd.,  with  ham  and  eggs  or 
meat  25.-24.  Qd.,  with  fish  2s.  &d.-3s.;  table  d'hote  dinner  4-5s.',  tea,  same 
charges  as  for  breakfast;  hot  bath  1«.,  cold  bath  in  bedroom  Gd.  As  a 
rule  the  price  of  dinner,  whether  fable  d'hote  or  a  coffee-room  dinner  of 
3-6  courses,  may  be  approximately  stated  as  equal  to  the  charge  for  room 
and  attendance.  No  charge  is  made  for  lights.  'Pension'  as  used  throughout 
the  Handbook  includes  board,  lodging,  and  attendance;  D.  means  table 
d'hote  dinner.  At  many  hotel^i  in  watering-places,  it  is  customary  to 
supply  breakfast  also  on  the  table-d'hote  system,  at  a  charge  of  2s.  6d.-3s. 
Luncheon  is  generally  ordered  d  la  carte;  for  bread  and  cheese  the  or- 
dinary charge  is  is.  The  head- waiter,  who  presents  the  bill,  and  the 
'boots'  expect  a  gratuity  when  the  visitor  leaves  •,  but  the  services  of  the 
former  are,  strictly  speaking,  included  in  'attendance'. 

As  compared  with  Continental  hotels,  English  hotels  may  be  said 
as  a  rule  to  excel  in  beds,  cleanliness,  and  sanitary  arrangements,  while 
their  cuisine  is  on  the  whole  inferior.  The  English  table  d'hote  dinner  is 
usually  dear  and  seldom  so  good  as  its  prototype  on  the  Continent;  while  the 
culinary  art  of  hotels  off  the  beaten  track  of  tourists  scarcely  soars  beyond 
the  preparation  of  plain  joints,  steaks,  chops,  vegetables,  and  puddings. 
Those,  however,  who  are  content  with  simple  but  substantial  fare  will 
find  little  to  complain  of.  Beer  is  the  customary  beverage  (2-3d.  per 
glass,  i-Qd.  per  pint  or  tankard),  but  wine  is  more  usual  at  fashionable 
tables-d'hote,  where  beer  is  sometimes  not  supplied  except  in  bottles  and 
at  higher  rates.  Restaurants  are  not  nearly  so  common  in  England  as 
on  the  Continent,  and  in  most  provincial  places  it  is  better  to  go  to  a 
hotel  for  meals.  The  dining-room  is  called  the  Cofee  Room.  Smoking  is 
not  permitted  except  in  the  Smoking  Room  and  the  Billiard  Room.  Re- 
freshments ordered  in  either  of  the  last  are  generally  paid  for  on  the  spot. 
Billiard-rooms  are  not  usually  found  at  second-class  hotels  except  in  large 
towns;   the  charge  is  Gd.  per  game  of  oO  points. 

In  all  first-class  hotels  the  visitor  has  a  right  to  expect  a  high  degree 
of  comfort;  and  he  need  have  no  hesitation  in  requiring  such^  small 
conveniences  as  hot  water  In  the  morning  and  before  table  d'hote,  an 
abundant  supply  of  towels,  pen  and  ink  in  his  bedroom,  etc.  In  hotels 
not  lighted  throughout  with  gas  there  should  be  a  supply  of  bedroom- 
candles  on  every  floor,  and  not  merely  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase.  Station 
hotels  are  sometimes  convenient,  but  often  noisy.  At  some  of  the  fashion- 
able spas  (Harrogate,  Buxton,  etc.)  it  is  usual  to  make  a  fixed  charge 
per  day,  covering  everything;  and  if  visitors  do  not  wish  to  be  tied 
down  to  the  hotel-meals  they  should  make  a  special  agreement. 

The  Hydropathic  Establishments ,  now  so  numerous  in  the  popular 
tourist-districts  of  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland,  are  frequented  by  pleasure- 
seekers  as  much  as  by  patients,  and  may  almost  be  described  as  large 
temperance  hotels,  in  which  the  guests  take  their  meals  in  common  at 
prescribed  hours  and  submit  to  various  other  general  regulations.  The 
hydropathic  treatment  may  be  followed  or  not,  as  the  visitor  pleases.  The 
usual  charge  is  about  8-10*.  a  day  or  2V'2-3  guineas  a  week. 

Apartments.  The  expenses  of  a  tour  are  greatly  reduced  by  engaging 
apartments  instead  of  frequenting  hotels.  Apartments,  even  for  a  night  or 
two,  are  easily  found  in  all  the  smaller  towns,  cathedral  cities,  etc.,  either 
by  bills  in  the  windows  or  on  enquiry  at  respectable  shops,  etc.  In  London 
and  the  larger  towns,  however,  strangers  should  not  take  apartments 
without  a  satisfactory  reference. 


VI.    Sports  and  Pastimes 

by 
W.  Blew. 

Although  there  are  few  places  in  Great  Britain  which  do  not 
offer  the  visitor  more  or  less  facility  for  sport  and  pastime ,  the 
stranger  will  find  the  most  varied  programme  when  he  locates  him- 
self in  some  large  town.  The  tendency  of  the  time  is  to  hring  as 
many  amusements  as  possible  within  the  limits  of  enclosed  grounds. 
These  enclosures  are ,  almost  without  exception ,  the  property  of  a 
club,  for  the  members  of  which  the  best  accommodation  is  reserved. 
The  public,  however,  can  obtain  admission  by  payment  to  the 
grounds  and  to  stands  not  set  apart  for  members.  Forth-coming 
events  are  advertised  in  the  papers,  and  any  information  on  sporting 
matters  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  a  letter  to  the  editor  of  one 
of  the  sporting  journals ,  such  as  the  Field  or  the  Sporting  News. 

Horse  Racing.  The  chief  Kace  Meetings  held  in  enclosed  grounds  are 
those  at  Sanduwn  and  Kempton  Park  (see  Baedeker^s  London),  Manchester, 
Leicester,  Derby,  Four  Oaks  (near  Birmingham),  and  Gosforth  Park  (near 
Ifewcastle-on-Tyne).  There  are  several  annual  meetings  at  each  of  these 
places:  and  owing  to  the  large  sums  raced  for,  and  the  superior  nature 
of  the  arrangements,  these  'Gate-money'  meetings  are  very  popular.  Many 
of  the  old-fashioned  'open"  meetings,  however,  still  survive.  There  is  no 
charge  for  going  on  the  course  at  Newmarket  (p.  459),  Epsom,  Ascot  (see 
Baedeker's  London),  Goodwood  (p.  55),  and  many  other  places,  though,  of 
course ,  payment  must  be  made  for  entrance  to  the  stands  and  paddocks. 
"When  the  racing  season  closes,  towards  the  end  of  November,  the  enclosed 
grounds  are  used  for  steeplechases  and  coursing  meetings,  the  hares  being 
kept  in  a  pen  and  'enlarged'  as  required.  The  chief  steeplechase  of  the 
year  is  the  Liverpool  Grand  National,  run  for  in  March:  the  course  is 
upwards  of  41/2  M.  long  and  the  value  of  the  stakes  is  about  1000?.  The 
Grand  National  Hunters''  Steeplechase  is  for  horses  coming  under  the 
definition  of  hunters,  and  takes  place  on  a  different  course  each  year. 
Hunt  Steeplechases,  confined  for  the  most  part  to  horses  which  have  been 
ridden  with  specified  packs  of  hounds,  are  frequent  in  March  and  April, 
and  are  growing  more  and  more  popular. 

Hunting.  Nearly  the  whole  of  England  is  hunted  over  by  hounds  of 
some  kind  or  another,  and  no  difficulty  need  be  experienced  in  seeing  a 
pack  at  work.  In  most  counties  hunters  may  be  hired  at  a  charge  of 
2-3  guineas  a  day.  —  The  Devon  and  Somerset  Staghounds  hunt  over  Ex- 
moor  (p.  164)  and  the  Quantocks ,  pursuing  the  wild  red  deer  which  is 
found  by  the  'tufters.'  Horses  may  be  hired  at  Dulverton  (p.  128J,  Taun- 
ton (p.  127),  etc.  Vfix^  the  exception  of  the  New  Forest  Pack,  all  other 
packs  of  staghounds  hunt  the  carted  deer.  Fox-hunting,  however,  is  the 
most  popular  branch  of  this  sport,  and  is  seen  in  its  glory  in  the  so-called 
'Shires',  including  Leicestershire  (the  chief),  Northamptonshire,  and  parts 
of  Rutland  and  "Warwickshire.  Most  packs  are  maintained  by  subscrip- 
tion ;  and  though  anyone  may  hunt  with  them  for  a  day  or  two  without 
giving  anything,  more  frequent  visitors  are  expected  to  contribute  to  the 
support  of  the  hounds.  The  packs  of  harriers  are  very  numerous.  The 
hunting  season  is  opened  by  the  Devon  and  Somerset  Staghounds  in  the 
second  week  in  August:,  cub-hunting  begins  in  September:  and  the  Royal 
Buckhounds  meet  for  forest -hunting  al  Ascot  on  the  first  Tuesday  in 
October.  Regular  hunting  begins  on  Nov.  1st,  and  lasts  till  about  the  middle 
of  April,  though  in  some  counties  a  May  fox  is  killed. 

Fishing.  Wherever  there  is  a  river  in  England  and  "Wales,  some  kind 
of  fishing  may  be  had:  and  full  information  as  to  the  conditions  may 
generally  be  obtained  at  the  local  fishing-tackle  shops.  A  good  deal  of 
the  water  is  free,   but  in  some  cases  a  charge    is   made  to  anglers,  while 


SPORTS  AND  PASTIiMES.  ^^' 

in  others  fishing  is  granted  as  a  favour  only.  Slapton  Lea  near  Dartmouth 
merits  notice,  as  the  lake  is  close  to  the  sea,  and  salt  and  fresh  water 
lishing  can  be  had  within  a  stone's  throw  of  each  other.  Deep-sea  fishing 
can  be  indulged  in  at  any  of  the  seaside-resorts,  but  it  is  useless  for 'the 
stranger  to  try  it  without  a  lisherman. 

Shooting.  Though  a  few  hotels  advertise  the  right  of  shooting  over  a 
considerable  area  as  open  to  their  visitors,  this  is  seldom  of  much  account  ■, 
and  this  pastime  is  practically  confined  to  the  owners  and  hirers  of  shootings 
and  their  friends. 

Aquatics.  Boating  is  practised  on  all  rivers  wide  and  deep  enough. 
The  beauties  of  the  Thames  are  well-known,  and  a  favourite  trip  is  to 
descend  from  Oxford  to  London  by  boat  (see  p.  219).  The  chief  rowing 
tixture  of  the  year  is  Henley  Regatta  (p.  221).  —  The  Yachting  season 
begins  on  the  Thames  and  ends  with  the  regattas  on  the  Devonshire  Coast  in 
September.  Comp.  pp.  74,  131.  —  Sailing  on  the  Norfolk  Broads,  see  p.  458. 

Cricket  is  played  everywhere,  and  the  visitor  who  makes  a  prolonged 
stay  will  find  no'  difficulty  in  joining  a  club.  The  best  cricket  is  to  be 
seen  at  Lords  and  the  Oval  in  London,  on  the  grounds  of  the  'first-class' 
counties,  and  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge.  The  'first -class  counties"  are 
Surrey,  York,  Middlesex,  Nottingham,  Lancashire,  Kent,  Sussex,  Somerset, 
Gloucester,  Derby,  Warwick,  Essex,  Hanipsliire.  and  Leicester,  The  cricket 
weeks  at  Canterbury  (p.  32;  in  Aug.)  and  at  Scarborough  (p.  427:  Sept.) 
also  deserve  notice.  The  Marylebone  Club  (at  Lord's)  is  the  chief  govern- 
ing body  in  the  cricket  world. 

Lawn  Tennis.  Courts  open  to  strangers  on  payment  are  found  here 
and  there  in  old  skating-rinks,  drill-halls,  public  gardens,  etc.,  but  as  a 
rule  this  game  cannot  be  seen  to  perfection  except  in  the  grounds  of  clubs 
or  private  persons.  Tournaments,  open  to  visitors  on  payment,  take  place 
in  London,  Buxton,  Leamington,  Torquay,  and  many  other  centres.  Tennis 
lawns  are  often  attached  to  the  large  hotels  in  fashionable  resorts. 

Golf.  Golf-links  are  to  be  found  at  almost  every  seaside  and  summer 
resort,  as  well  as  near  most  large  towns.  Strangers  ai-e  usually  permitted 
to  play  for  a  weekly  fee  of  2s.  6c?.-10«.,  or  on  introduction.  The  head- 
quarters of  the  game  is  67.  Andrews.  Other  good  links  in  Scotland  are 
those  at  North  Berwick.  GvUane.,  Prestwick,  Campbeltown.^  Troon.  Dornoch,  etc. 
Among  the  best  English  links  are  those  at  Saiulwich,  Hoylake.,  Westward  Ho, 
Felixstowe,  Aldebiirgh,  Alnmonth,  etc.  Comp.  the  Golfing  Annual  ( Fieli  Office. 
London). 

Lack  of  space  forbids  more  than  a  mere  mention  of  the  following  sports 
and  pastimes,  all  more  or  less  popular  in  England  :  Polo.,  Archery,  Foot'jall, 
Hockey,  Otter-hunting,  and  La  Crosse. 

Cycling  (communicated  by  Mr.  E.  R.  Shipton,  Editor  of  the  C.  T.  C. 
Gazette).  Cycling  prospers  to  an  amazing  degree  in  the  United  Kingdom, 
where  it  is  "estimated  that  there  are  about  l,f  100,000  cyclists,  men  and  wo- 
men, while  about  100,000  hands  derive  employment,  directly  or  indirectly, 
from  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  bicycles  and  tricycles.  The  English  roads, 
though  inferior  to  some  of  the  'chanssees'  of  the  Continent,  are  upon  the 
whole  above  the  average;  and  the  American  cyclist  will  probably  find 
them  far  better  adapted  to  his  requirements  than  the  ordinary  highways 
of  the  United  States.  Speaking  roughly,  cycling  in  Britain  is  circumscribed 
only  by  the  area  of  the  island;  but  as  a  general  rule  the  gradients  of  the 
roads  inland  will  be  found  less  severe  than  those  along  the  coast,  while 
their  surfaces  are  also  generally  better.  The  roads  of  England  and  Scot- 
land are  usually  preferable  to  those  of  Wales  and  Ireland.  The  tourist, 
however,  should  not  plan  his  route  without  regard  to  the  configuration 
of  the  country,  a  knowledge  of  which  is  best  attained  by  consulting  a  good 
map.  [Bartholomew's  map  on  the  scale  of  4  miles  to  an  inch,  mounted 
on  linen,  is  portable  and  well  adapted  to  the  cyclist's  use;  it  may  be  ob 
tained   in   sections   (at  2s.  per  sheet)  from  any  bookseller.] 

The  American  traveller  who  lands  at  Liverpool  and  has  either  brought 
his  machine  with  him  or  has  arranged  to  have  one  sent  to  meet  him  may 
profitably  begin  riding  at  once.     If  he  turn  to  the  S.,  he  may  proceed  via 


xxvi  OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 

Chester,  Stafford^  and  Birmingham  to  Coventry,  whence  he  may  diverge  to 
take  in  Stratford-on-Avon,  Kenilworth,  and  Leamington,  continuing  the  jour- 
ney to  London  either  direct  or  via  Oxford.  Should  time  admit,  the  run 
may  be  continued  to  Reading,  Bristol,  and  through  Mid -Devon  to  the 
Land""*  End;  or  in  shorter  stages,  as  betits  the  roads,  along  the  beautiful 
coast  of  North  Devon.  From  Cornwall  he  may  return  to  London  via  Ply- 
mouth and  Exeter;  or  he  may  skirt  the  S.  coast  to  Southampton,  Brighton, 
and  Ramsgate,  running  thence  to  London  through  Canterbury  and  Maid- 
stone. Should  the  traveller  elect  to  go  northward  from  Liverpool,  he  may 
visit  the  English  Lakes,  Carlisle,  the  Land  of  Burns,  the  Scottish  Lakes,  the 
Highlands,  and  so  to  John  o'  OroaVs  House;  returning  hy  Aberdeen,  Perth, 
Edinburgh,  Newcastle,  York,  Cambridge,  etc.  The  cyclist,  landing  at  Dover, 
Harwich,  or  any  of  the  other  usual  steamboat  harbours,  may  also  begin 
his  riding  at  once.     North  Wales  is  also  an  excellent  tield  for  cyclists. 

The  cyclist  who  contemplates  even  the  shortest  tour  in  Great  Britain 
will  find  it  decidedly  advantageous  to  become  a  member  of  the  Cyclists' 
Touring  Club,  which  now  possesses  nearly  40,000  members.  It  has  a  re- 
sident Chief  Consul  in  the  United  States  [Mr.  F.  W.  Weston,  Savin  Hill, 
Boston)  and  also  Chief  Consuls  for  Continental  Europe.  The  entrance  fee 
of  this  club  is  is.,  and  the  annual  subscription  bs.  American  cyclists  who 
wish  to  become  members  may  apply  to  Mr.  Weston.  Should  they  arrive  in 
England  without  having  been  enrolled,  they  should  communicate  with  the 
secretary  {Mr.  E.  R.  Shipton  ,  47  Victoria  St.,  Westminster,  S.W.),  who, 
should  their  credentials  be  satisfactory,  will  send  them  a  provisional  cer- 
tificate of  membership  on  payment  of  an  additional  fee  oils.  6d.  The  new 
member  should  then  at  once  buy  the  British  Handbook  of  the  C.  T.  C. 
(is.  6i/. ;  sold  to  members  only).  This  contains  a  list  of  5000  hotels  throughout 
the  country,  which  charge  members  of  the  Club  reduced  tariti's;  the  ad- 
dresses of  "nearly  1000  consuls  {i.e.  local  resident  wheelmen,  who  are  pledged 
to  help  their  fellow-members  by  information  and  advice) ;  the  names  of 
over  2000  cycle  repairers;  and  much  other  useful  information.  The  Club 
publishes  a  similar  handbook  for  Continental  Europe;  and  has  made  an 
arrangement  with  various  foreign  Governments  by  which  the  wheels  of 
members  of  the  C.  T.  C.  on  tour  are  admitted  duty-free  on  production  of 
ticket  of  member-ship.  The  C.  T.  C.  has  published  a  Road  Book  of  Eng- 
land and  Wales  (3  vols.,  15s.;  bs.  per  vol.  extra  to  non-members);  and 
Scottish  and  Irish  volumes  are  in  preparation. 

VII.    Outline  of  English  History. 

Roman  Period  (B.C.  55-A.  D.  446). 

B.  C.  55-54.  Of  Britain  before  its  first  invasion  by  Julius  Caesar  in 
B.  C.  55  there  is  no  authentic  history.  Caesar  repeats  his  invasion  in  B.  C. 
54,  but  makes  no  permanent  settlement. 

43  A.  D.     Emp.  Claudius  undertakes  the  subjugation  of  Britain. 

78-S5.  South  Britain,  with  part  of  Caledonia,  is  overrun  by  the  Roman 
general  Agricola,  and  reduced  to  the  form  of  a  province. 

412.     Roman  legions  recalled  from  Britain  by  Honorius. 

445.  The  Britons  are  unable  to  resist  the  attacks  of  the  Picts,  and 
summon  the  Saxons,  under  Hengist  and  Horsa,  to  their  aid. 

Anglo-Saxon  Period  (445  1066). 

445-577.  The  Saxons,  re-inforced  by  the  Angles,  Jutes,  and  other 
Germanic  tribes,  gradually  overrun  Britain  and  thus  lay  the  foundations 
of  the  kingdom  uf  England.  To  this  period  belong  the  semi-mythical  ex- 
ploits of  King  Arthur  and  his  knights. 

5S8-685.  The  Xorthumbrian  Kingdom.  Christianity  re-introduced  by 
St.  Augustine  (597).     Caedmon  (about  665). 

6S5-823.  The  Three  Kingdoms  (Xorthumbria,  Mercia,  Wessex).  The 
Venerable  Bede  (d.  735). 

828.    Egbert  of  Wessex  recognized  as  overlord  of  all  English  kingdoms. 

835-871.     Contests  with  the  Danes,  who  repeatedly  invade  England. 


OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY  ^^vu 

871-901.  Alfred  the  Great  defeats  the  Danes,  and  compels  them  to 
make  peace.  Creates  navy,  establishes  militia,  revises  laws,  reorganises 
institutions,  is  a  patron  of  learning,  and  himself  an  author. 

979-1016.  Ethelred  the  Unready  draws  down  upon  England  the  ven- 
geance  of  the  Danes   by   a  massacre  of  those  who  had  settled  in  England. 

1013.     The  Danish  "king  Sweyn  conquers  England. 

1016-1035.     Canute  the  Great,  the  son  of  Sweyn,  reigns  over  England. 

1035-1040.  Harold  Harefoot,  illegitimate  son  of  Canute,  usurps  the 
throne. 

1040-1042.  Hardicanute,  son  of  Canute.  —  The  Saxon  line  is  restored 
iu  the  person  of  — 

1042-1066.  Edward  the  Confessor,  who  makes  London  hi.s  capital,  and 
builds  Westminster  Abbey.     His  brother-in-law  and  successor  — 

1066.  Harold,  son  of  Earl  Godwin,  loses  his  kingdom  and  his  life  at 
the  Battle  of  Hastings,  where  he  opposed  the  invasion  of  the  Normans, 
under  William  the  Conqueror. 

NoKMAN  Dynasty  (1066-1154). 

1066-1087.  William  the  Conqueror,  of  Normandy,  establishes  himself 
as  King  of  the  English.  Introduction  of  Norman  (French)  language  and 
customs. 

1087-1100.  William  II.,  surnamed  Ru/us,  after  a  tyrannical  reign,  is 
accidentally  shot  by  Sir  Walter  Tyrrell  while  hunting  (p.  83). 

1100-1135.  Henry  I.,  Beaucler'c,  defeats  his  elder  brother  Robert,  Duke 
of  Normandy,  at  the  battle  of  Ti^nchebvai  (1106),  and  adds  Normandy  to  the 
possessions  of  the  English  crown.  He  leaves  his  kingdom  to  his  daughter 
Matilda,  who  however,  is  unable  to  wrest  it  from  — 

1135-1154.  Stephen,  of  Blots,  grandson  of  the  Conquercr.  David,  King 
of  Scotland,  and  uncle  of  Matilda,  is  defeated  and  taken  prisoner  at  the 
Battle  of  the  Standard  (1138).  Stephen  appoints  as  his  successor  Matilda's 
son,  Henry  of  Anjou  or  Plantagenet  (from  the  planta  genista  or  broom, 
the  badge  of  this  family). 

House  of  Plantagenet  (1154-1399). 

1154-1189.  Henry  II.  Strife  with  Thomas  Beckel,  Archbishop  of  Canter- 
bury, regarding  the  respective  spheres  of  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical  powers. 
The  Archbishop  excommunicates  the  King's  followers,  and  is  murdered 
by  four  knights  at  Canterbury  (1170).  Conquest  of  Ireland  (1170-72).  Robin 
Hood,  the  forest  outlaw,  flourishes. 

1189-1199.  Richard  I.,  Coevr  de  Lion,  takes  a  prominent  part  in  the 
Third  Crusade,  but  is  captured  on  his  way  home,  and  imprisoned  in 
Germany  for  upwards  of  a  year.  He  carries  on  war  with  Philip  11. 
of  France. 

1199-1216.  John,  surnamed  Lackland,  is  defeated  at  Bouvines  (1214)  by 
Philip  II.  of  France,  and  loses  Normandy.  Magna  Charta,  the  groundwork 
of  the  English  constitution,  is  extorted  from  him  by  his  Barons  (1215). 

1216-1272.  Henry  III.,  by  his  misrule,  becomes  involved  in  a  war 
with  his  Barons,  headed  by  Simon  de  Montfort ,  and  is  defeated  at  Lewes. 
His  son  Edward  gains  the  battle  of  Evesham,  where  De  Montfort  is  slain. 
Hubert  de  Burgh  defeats  the  French  at  sea.  Provisions  of  Oxford  (1258). 
Commons  summoned  to  Parliament  (1265).     Roger  Bacon,  the  philosopher. 

1272-1307.  Edward  I.,  Longshanks,  overcomes  the  Welsh  under  Lie- 
icellyn,  and  completes  the  conquest  of  Wales.  The  heir -apparent  to  the 
English  throne  thenceforward  bears  the  title  of  Prince  of  Wales.  Robert 
fi/'Mce  and /o/i/i  £a^■o/ struggle  for  the  crown  of  Scotland.  Edward  espouses 
the  CMMC  of  the  latter  (who  swears  fealty  to  England),  and  overruns  Scot- 
land. The  Scots,  led  by  Sir  William  Wallace,  otVer  a  determined  resistance. 
Wallace  executed  at  London  (1305).  The  Scots  defeated  at  Falkirk  and 
Methuen,  and  the  country  subdued.  Establishment  of  the  English  Par- 
liament substantially  in  its  modern  form  (1295). 

1307-1327.  Edward  II.  is  signally  defeated  at  Bannockburn  by  the 
Scots  under  Robert  Bruce  the  younger,  and  is  forced  to  retire  to  England 
(1314).     The  Queen   and   her  paramour  Mortimer  join   with    the  Barons  in 


xxviii  OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY. 

taking  up  arms  against  the  King,  who  is  deposed,  and  shortly  afterwards 
murdered  in  prison. 

1327-1377.  Edward  III.  defeats  the  Scots  at  Ealidon  Hill  and  NevilWi 
Cross.  Lays  claim  to  the  throne  of  France,  and  invades  that  country, 
thus  beginning:  the  Hundred  Years'  War  between  France  and  Enerland. 
Victories  of  Ships  fnaval;  134U),  Cricy  (1346),  and  Poitiers  (1356).  John  the 
Good  of  France,  taken  prisoner  by  the  Black  Prince.,  dies  in  captivity 
(1364).  After  the  death  of  the  Black  Prince,  England  loses  all  her  French 
possessions,  except  Calais.  Order  of  the  Garter  founded.  Movement  against 
the  corruption  of  the  clergy,  headed  by  the  reformer  John  Wyclife.  House 
of  Commons  holds  its  meetings  apart  from  the  House  of  Lords. 

1377-1399.  Richard  II.  Rebellion  of  Wat  Tyler,  occasioned  by  in- 
crease of  taxation.  Victory  over  the  Scots  at  Ottevhurn  or  Chevy  Chase. 
Henry  of  Bolingbroke,  Duke  of  Lancaster.,  leads  an  army  against  the  King, 
takes  him  captive,  and  according  to  popular  tradition,  starves  him  to 
death  in  Pontefract  Castle.    Geoffrey  Chaucer.,  the  father  of  English  poetry. 

House  of  Lancaster  (1399-1461). 

1399-1413.  Henry  IV,,  Bolinghroke.,  now  secures  his  election  to  the 
crown,  in  right  of  his  descent  from  Henry  III.  Outbreak  of  the  nobility, 
under  the  Earl  of  Northumberland  and  his  son  Percy  Hotspur,  is  quelled 
by  the  victory  of  Shrewsbury,  at  which  the  latter  is  slain  (1403). 

1413-1422.  Henry  V.  renews  the  claims  of  England  to  the  French 
crown,  wins  the  battle  of  Agincourt  (1415),  and  subdues  the  N.  of  France. 
Persecution  of  the  Lollards,  or  followers  of  Wvclitfe. 

1422-1461.  Henry  VI.  is  proclaimed  King"  of  France  at  Paris.  The 
Maid  of  Orleans  defeats  the  English  and  recovers  French  possessions. 
Outbreak  of  the  civil  contest  called  the  '■Wars  of  the  Roses",  between  the 
houses  of  Lancaster  (red  rose)  and  York  (white  rose).  Henry  becomes 
insane.  Richard,  Duke  of  York,  grandson  of  Edward  III.,  lays  claim  to  the 
throne,  joins  himself  with  Warwick,  the  'King-Maker,  and  wins  the  battle 
of  Northampton,  but  is  defeated  and  slain  at  Wakefield.  His  son  Edward, 
however,  is  appointed  King.     Rebellion  of  Jack  Cade. 

House  of  Yokk  (1461-1485). 

1461-1483.  Edward  IV.  wins  the  battles  of  Towton,  Hedgley  Moor,  and 
Hexham.  Warwick  takes  the  part  of  Margaret  of  Anjou,  wife  of  Henry  VI., 
and  forces  Edward  to  flee  to  Holland,  whence,  however,  he  soon  returns 
and  wins  the  victories  of  Barnet  and  Tewkesbury .  Henry  VI.  dies  sud- 
denly in  the  Tower  (1471).  Edward's  brother,  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  is 
said  to  have  been  drowned  in  a  butt  of  malmsey. 

1483.  Edward  V.,  the  youthful  son  of  Edward  IV.,  is  declared  ille- 
gitimate, and  murdered  in  the  Tower,  along  with  his  brother,  by  his 
uncle,  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  who  takes  possession  of  the  throne  as  — 

1483-1485.  Richard  III.,  but  is  defeated  and  slain  at  Bosworth  by  Henry 
Tudor.  Earl  of  Richmond,  a  scion  of  the  House  of  Lancaster. 

House  of  Tddor  (1485-1603). 

1485-1509.  Henry  VII.  marries  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Edward  IV.,  and 
so  puts  an  end  to  the  Wars  of  the  Roses.  The  pretenders  Lambert  Sim- 
nel  and  Perkin  Warbeck. 

1509-1547.  Henry  VIII.,  married  six  times  (to  Catherine  of  Aragon, 
Anne  Boleyn,  Jane  Seymour,  Anne  of  Cleves,  Catherine  Howard,  and  Cath- 
erine Parr).  Battles  of  the  Spurs  and  Flodden.  Separation  of  the  Church 
of  England  from  that  of  Rome.  Dissolution  of  monasteries  and  perse- 
cution of  the  Papists.  Cardinal  Wolsey  and  Thomas  Cromwell,  all--Ti(|wp.r- 
ful  ministers.     Whitehall  and  St.  James's  Palace  built. 

1547-1553.     Edward  VI.  encourages  the  Reformed  faith. 

1553-1558.  Mary  I.  causes  Lady  Jane  Grey,  whom  Edward  had  ap- 
pointed his  successor,  to  be  executed,  and  imprisons  her  own  sister  Eliza- 
beth. Marries  Philip  of  Spain,  and  restores  Roman  Catholicism.  Perse- 
cution of  the  Protestants.     Calais  taken  by  the  French  (1558). 

1558-1603.     Elizabeth.  Protestantism    re-established.     Flourishing  state 


OUTLINE  OF  ENGLISH  HISTORY.  ^^i^ 

of  commerce.  Marp,  Queen  of  Scots,  executed  after  a  long  confinement  in 
England  (1587).  Destruction  of  the  Spanish  'Invincible  Armada'  fl588i. 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  the  celebrated  circumnavigator.  Foundation  of  the 
East  India  Company.  Golden  age  of  English  literature :  Shakexpeare,  Bacon, 
Spenser,  Jonson,  Beaumont,  Fletcher,  Marloice.  Drayton. 

HousK  OF  Stuart  (1603-1714). 

1603-1625.  James  I.,  King  of  Scots,  and  son  of  Mary  Stuart,  unites  by 
his  accession  the  two  kingdoms  of  England  and  Scotland.  Persecution 
of  the  Puritans  and  Roman  Catholics.  Influence  of  Buckingham,  Gun- 
powder Plot  (1605).     Execution  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  (1618). 

1625-1649.  Charles  I.  imitates  his  father  in  the  arbitrary  nature  of 
his  rule,  quarrels  with  Parliament  on  questions  of  taxation,  dissolves  it 
•  repeatedly,  and  tyrannically  attempts  to  arrest  live  members  of  the  House 
of  Commons  {Hampden,  Pym,  etc.).  Rise  of  the  Covenanters  in  Scotland. 
Long  Parliament.  Outbreak  of  civil  war  between  the  King  and  his  ad- 
herents (Cavaliers)  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Parliament  and  its  friends 
(Roundheads)  on  the  other.  The  King  defeated  by  Oliver  Cromwell  at 
Marston  Moor  and  Naseby.  He  takes  refuge  in  the  Scottish  camp,  but  is 
given  up  to  the  Parliamentary  leaders,  tried,  and  executed  at  Whitehall. 

1649-1653.  Commonwealth.  The  Scots  rise  in  favour  of  Charles  II., 
but  are  defeated  at  Dunbar  and   Worcester  by  Cromwell. 

1653 1660.  Protectorate.  Oliver  Cromwell  now  becomes  Lord  Pro- 
tector of  England,  and  by  his  vigorous  and  wise  government  makes  Eng- 
land prosperous  at  home  and  respected  abroad.  On  CromwelPs  death 
(165S),  he  is  succeeded  by  his  son  Richard,  who  soon  resigns,  whereupon 
Charles  II.  is  restored  by  General  Monk,  John  Milton^  the  poet ;  Thomas 
flobbes,  the  philosopher;   George  Fox,  the  founder  of  the  Quakers. 

1660-16'^5.  Charles  II.  General  amnesty  proclaimed,  a  few  of  the  re- 
gicides only  being  excepted.  Arbitrary  government.  The  Cabal.  Wars 
with  Holland.  Persecution  of  the  Papists  after  the  pretended  discovery  of 
a  Popish  Plot.  Passing  of  the  Habeas  Corpus  Act  (1679).  Wars  with  the 
Covenanters.  Battle  of  Bolhwell  Bridge.  Rye  House  Plot.  Charles  a  pen- 
sioner of  France.  Xames  Whig  and  Tory  come  into  use.  Dryden  and 
Butler,  the  poets;  Locke,  the  philosopher;  John  Bunyan. 

16^5-1688.  James  II.,  a  Roman  Catholic,  soon  alienates  the  people 
by  his  love  for  that  form  of  religion,  is  quite  unable  to  resist  the  invasion 
of  William  of  Orange,  escapes  to  France,  and  spends  his  last  years  at 
St.  Germain,  near  Paris.    Sir  Isaac  Newton  (Principia',  1687). 

1688-1702.  William  JII.  and  Mary  II.  William  of  Orange,  with  his 
wife,  the  eldest  daughter  of  James  II.,  now  ascends  the  throne.  The 
Declaration  of  Rights.  Battles  of  Killiecrankie  and  The  Boyne.  Grand 
Alliance  against  Louis  XIV.  Peace  of  Rvswick  (1697).  First  Partition 
Treaty  (1698).     Second  Partition  Treaty  (1700).    Act  of  Settlement  (1701). 

1702-1714.  Anne,  younger  daughter  of  James  II.,  completes  the  fusion 
of  England  and  Scotland  by  the  union  of  their  parliaments.  Marlborough^ s 
victories  of  Blenheim.,  Ramilies,  Oudenarde,  and  Malplaquet.  Capture  of 
Gibraltar.    The  poets  Pope,  Addison,  Sicift,  Pnor,  and  Allan  Ramsay. 

Hanoveeian  Dynasty  (1714  et  seq.). 

1714-1727.  George  I.  succeeds  in  right  of  his  descent  from  James  I. 
Rebellion  in  Scotland  (in  favour  of  the  Pretender)  quelled.  Sir  Robert 
Walpole,  prime  minister.     Daniel  Defoe. 

1727-1760.  George  II.  Rebellion  in  favour  nf  the  Young  Pretender, 
Charles  Edicard  Stuart,  crushed  at  Culloden  (1746).  Canada  taken  from  the 
French.  William  Pitt,  Lord  Chatham,  prime  minister;  Richardson,  Fielding, 
Smollett,   Sterne,    novelists;    Thomson,    Young,    Gray,    Collins,    Gay,    poets. 

1760-1820.  George  III.  American  War  of  Independence.  War  with 
France.  Victories  of  Nelson  at  Aboukir  and  Trafalgar,  and  of  Wellington 
in  Spain  and  at  Waterloo.  British  conquests  in  India.  The  younger  Pitt, 
prime  minister;  Edmund  Burke;  Charles  Fox;  Shelley  and  Keats,  poets; 
Adam  Smith's  'Wealth  of  Nations'  (1776). 


XXX  WALES  AND  THE  WELSH  LANGUAGE. 

1820-1830.     George  IV.    Roman    Catholic  Emancipation    Bill.     Daniel 
O'Connell.     The  English  aid  the  Greeks  in  the  War  of  Independence.  Vic- 
tory of  Navarino.     Byron,  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Wordsworth^  Coleridge^  Southey. 
'  1830-1837.     William  IV.  Abolition  of  slavery.  Reform  Bill, 


The  present  sovereign  of  Great  Britain  is  — 

Q,ueen  Victoria,  born  24th  Blay,  1819;  ascended  the  throne  in  1837; 
married,  on  10th  Feb.,  1840,  her  cousin,  Prince  Albert  of  Saxe-Coburg- 
Gotha  (d.  14th  Dec,  1861). 

The  children  of  this  marriage  are  ;  — 

(1)  Victoria,  born  21st  Nov.,  1840:  married  to  the  Crown  Prince  of 
Germany  (afterwards  Emp.  Frederick),  25th  Jan.,  1858. 

(2)  Albert  Edward,  Prince  of  Wales,  Heir  Apparent  to  the  throne,  born 
9th  Nov.,  1841;  married  Alexandra,  Princess  of  Denmark,  10th  March,  1863. 

(3)  Alice,  born  25th  April,  18i3;  married  to  the  Grand-Duke  of  Hessen- 
Darmstadt,  Ist  July,  1862;  died  14th  Dec,  1878. 

(4)  Alfred,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  born  6th  Aug.,  1844;  married  the  Grand 
Duchess  Marie  of  Russia,  23rd  Jan.,  1874. 

(5)  Helena,  born  25th  May,  1846;  married  to  Prince  Christian  of  Schles- 
wig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg,  5th  July,  1866. 

(6)  Louise,  born  18th  March,  1848;  married  to  the  Marquis  of  Lome, 
eldest  son  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  21st  March,  1871. 

(7)  Arthur,  Duke  of  Connaught,  born  1st  May,  1850;  married  Princess 
Louise  Margaret  of  Prussia,  13th  March,  1879. 

(8)  Leopold,  Duke  of  Albany,  born  7th  April,  1853;  married  Princess 
Helen  of  Waldeck-Pyrmont,  27th  April,  1852;  died  28th  March,  1884. 

(9)  Beatrice,  born  14th  April,  1857;  married  Prince  Henry  of  Batten- 
berg,  23rd  July,  1885;  widow,  20th  Jan.,  1896. 

VIII.  Wales  and  the  Welsh  Language. 

The  formerly  independent  Principality  of  Wales  (Welsh  Cymru), 
with  an  area  of  7363  sq.  M.  and  (1891)  1,518,914  inhab.,  has  been 
an  integral  and  undisputed  part  of  the  British  monarchy  since  1535. 
Wales  is  by  far  the  most  mountainous  part  of  South  Britain,  fully 
one-quarter  of  its  surface  being  incapable  of  cultivation,  and  it  con- 
tains, especially  in  its  N.  half,  a  great  abundance  of  picturesque 
scenery  (comp.  R.  41).  In  all  essential  jmrticulars  travelling  in 
AVales  is  similar  to  travelling  in  England,  and  the  tourist  requires 
no  special  directions.  Except  in  the  remoter  districts  English  is 
everywhere  understood,  but  a  few  data  in  regard  to  the  Welsh  lan- 
guage are  given  below  to  aid  in  the  pronunciation  of  proper  names. 
—  The  national  Welsh  costume  is  now  rare. 

Language.  Welsh  (Cymraeg)  is  a  branch  of  the  great  family  of 
Celtic  languages  to  which  the  Armoric  of  Brittany,  Cornish,  Manx, 
and  the  Gaelic  of  Scotland  and  Ireland  also  belong.  Its  orthography 
is  at  first  somewhat  startling  to  Saxon  eyes,  but  with  the  exception 
of  one  or  two  characteristic  sounds,  the  difficulty  is  not  so  form- 
idable as  it  appears  on  the  surface. 

•Most  of  the  consonants  of  the  Welsh  alphabet  are  pronounced  as  in 
English;  but  /  is  pronounced  like  i',  while  c  and  g  are  always  hard.  Dd 
is  pronounced  like  th  in  thus,  th  like  th  in  think,  ff  like  /,  and  ch  like 
the  German  ch  (guttural).  The  sound  of  II,  perhaps  the  most  difficult  for 
a  stranger,  is  produced  by  forming  the  mouth  as  if  to  pronounce  I  and 
then  blowing.  This  sound  bears  the  same  relation  to  /  as  /  does  to  v. 
A  passable  imitation  of  it  is  thl  {e.g.  Llangollen  =  Thlangothlen).  The  vowels 


BIBLIOGRAPHY.  ^^^i 

a,  e,  t  are  pronounced  as  in  the  Continental  languages  (ah,  eh^  ee),  o  almost 
as  in  English,  and  «  is  a  kind  of  wide  sound,  the  nearest  approach  to  it 
in  English  being  i  as  in  fit.  When  used  as  a  vowel  (more  often  than  not) 
ui  is  pronounced  oo-,  y  is  invariably  a  vowel  and  is  equivalent  to  the 
Welsh  «  in  the  last  syllable  of  a  word  and  to  «  (as  in  but)  in  other  positions. 
The  circumflex  C'^)  is  often  used  to  denote  a  long  vowel.  The  letters 
j,  k,  q,  X,  and  z  do  not  occur  in  Welsh.  In  combination  the  initial 
letter  of  a  word  is  often  transmuted ;  thus  d  and  t  interchange;  also  f  and 

b,  and  f  and  m.  This  change  of  letter  often  corresponds  to  a  change  of 
gender.  In  pronunciation  the  accent  is  always  on  the  penultimate,  except 
in  a  few  cases  when  it  is  on  the  last  syllable. 

The  following  list  of  Welsh  words  occurring  in  the  names  of  places 
will  be  useful.  Aher^  mouth  of  a  river,  confluence  of  rivers;  afon.,  river; 
bach.,  hychan  (fem.  fach.,  fecftan),  small;  bedd,  a  grave;  bod,  a  dwelling; 
brt/n  (fryn),  hill;  btclch,  pass,  delile;  caer  (gaer),  fort;  cam,  carnedd, 
cairn,  heap  of  stones,  rocky  mountain;  cefii,  back,  ridge;  clogwyn.  precipice; 
crib  (pi.  cribau),  comb,  crest;  cwm,  valley  (comp.  combe);  din,  dinas,  a 
fortified  post;  dries,  door,  passage;  du  (ddu),  black;  dwr,  dwfr,  water; 
eglwys,  church;  ffynnon,  a  well  or  source;  glyn,  glen;  gwy,  water;  gwyn, 
wyn  (fem.  gwm,  teen),  white,  fair;  llan,  church  or  church-village  (lit.  en- 
closure); llyn  (pi.  llynnati),  lake;  maen,  faen,  vaen  (pi.  meini),  a  stone; 
maes,  faes,  a  field;  mawr,fawr,  vawr,  great;  moel,  foel,  bare,  bald;  mynach, 
monk;  mynydd,  mountain;  nant,  brook,  valley  (also  common  in  this  sense 
in  French  Switzerland);  netcydd,  new;  pant,  a  hoUow ;  pen,  top,  head;  pistyll, 
spout,  cataract;  pldi,  palace,  mansion;  ponf ,  bout,  brid!j:e;  porih,  borth, 
port,  harbour;  pwll,  pool;  rhaiadr,  waterfall;  rhiw,  steep,  slope;  rhos,  moor; 
rhudd,  red;  rhyd,  a  ford;  sych,  dry;  tal,  front,  high,  head;  tan,  under; 
tomen,  a  mound;  traeth,  beach;  Irwyn,  a  point  (lit.  nose);  twll,  a  pit;  ty, 
a  house;  tyddyn,  a  farm;  uchaf,  highest,  upper;  y,  yr,  the;  yn,  in,  into; 
ynys,  island;  ysirad,  vale. 

If  an  opportunity  presents  itself,  the  traveller  in  Wales  should  not 
fail  to  attend  an  Eisteddfod  (pron.  eistethvod;  lit.  a  'sitting'),  or  gathering 
for  competition  in  music,  literature,  etc.  The  best  is  the  National  Eisteddfod, 
held  once  a  year;  but  the  local  'Eisteddfodau'  are  also  interesting. 

IX.    Bibliography. 

The  following  is  a  small  selection  of  the  most  recent,  the  most 
interesting,  and  the  most  easily  accessible  topographical  and  other 
books  relating  to  England  and  Wales.  Bulky  works,  such  as  county 
histories,  and  older  books  of  which  the  value  is  mainly  antiquarian 
have  been  purposely  omitted.  Numerous  other  works  of  local  in- 
terest are  referred  to  throughout  the  text  of  the  Handbook. 

A  full  list  of  British  topographical  works  will  be  fnund  in  the  'Book 
of  British  Topography'  hy  John  P.  Anderson  (Satchell  <fe  Co.,  London,  1881), 
and  a  judicious  selection  of  accessible  books  is  given  in  'The  Best  Books' 
by  W.  Sican  Sonnenschein ,  which  contains  5U,(XX)  titles  (2nd  ed.,  1890). 
The  asterisks  indicate  publications  of  special  interest  and  importance. 
England:  its  People,  Politv,  and  Pursuits,  by  T.  E.  Escott  (new  ed..  1885). 
Our  Own  Country,   with   1200  illus.,   published   bv    Cassell  <{:  Co.  (6  vols.; 

1879-83). 
The  Land  We  Live  In,  by  Wm.  Hotcitt  (3  vols.,  1851-56). 
The  British  Isles,  translated  from  the  French  of  J.  J.  E.  Rectus  and  edited 

by  E.  O.  Raveristein  (1887). 
Notes  on  England,  by  If.  A.  Taine  (from  the  French;  1872). 
English  Traits.  \>y  R.    W.  Emerson 

One  Hundred  Davs  in  Europe,  by  0.    W.  Holmes  (1887). 
England,  Without  and  Within,  by  R.  O.   White  (Boston,  1881). 
Passages    from  the  English  Note -Books   of  Nathaniel   Hawthorne  (2  vols. 

Bdston,  1870). 
•English  Towns  and  Districts,  by  E.  A.  Freeman  (London,  1883). 


^^^"  BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

Gilpin's  Forest  Scenery,  edited  by  Fra7tcis  Q.  Heath  (London.  1879). 
Rural  Rides  in  tlie  Countiea  of  Surrey,   etc,   during    the  vears   1821-1832, 

by  Wm.  Cobbett  (new  ed.,  2  vols.;  London,  1885). 
Rambles  by  Patricius  Walker  (London,  1873). 
Old  England  and  its  Scenery  (6th  ed.5  Boston,  1879). 
England,  Picturesque  and  Descriptive,  by  J.  Cook  (Philadelphia,  1882). 
Portraits  of  Places,  by  Henry  James  (188Q). 
Visits  to  Remarkable  Places,  by  Wm.  Hewitt  (new  ed.,  1888). 
Bicycle  Tour  in  England,  by  A.  D.  Chandler  (Boston,  1881). 
^Pennanfs  Tour  in  Wales;  new  ed.,   by  Rhys.,   1883   (kept  in    many  of  the 

Welsh  hotels). 
Wild  Wales,  by  Geo.  Borrow  (3  vols.;  2nd  ed.,  1865), 
•Handbook  to  the  Cathedrals  of  England  and  Wales,  by  JR.  J.  King;   6  vols., 

illus.  (new  ed.,   1876  et  seq. ;  London,  Murray).     This  is  the  standard 

work  on  English  cathedrals. 
English  Cathedrals,  bv  Mrs.  Van  Rensselaer.,  illus.  bv  Joseph  Pemiell. 
Cathedral  Churches  of  England  and  Wales;  illus.;  C'assell  <b  Co.  (1884). 
Abbeys  and  Churches  of  England  and  Wales ;  illus. :  Cassell  <t  Co.  (1887). 
BeU's  Cathedral  Series,  now  publishing;  a  series  of  descriptive  monographs 

on  English  cathedrals,  edited  by  Gleeson  White  and  E.  F.  Strange. 
•History  of  Architecture,  bv  James  Fergusson  (2nd  ed. ,   1873-6;   see  vol.*. 

II.  and  IV.). 
♦Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Gothic  Architecture,   by   J.  H.  Parker    (6th 

ed.,  1881).     See  the  same  author's  edition  of  Rickm an,  his  Architectural 

Glossary,  etc. 
•Mediseval  Military  Architecture  in  England,  by  0.  T.  Clark  (2  vols.;  1884). 
The   Castles  of  England,  by  Sir  James  D.Mackenzie  (2  vols.,  4to  :  London, 

1897),  with  plans  and  illustrations. 
The  Monumental  Effigies  of  Great  Britain,  by  C.  A.  Stothard  (new  ed.,  1876). 
Treasures  of  Art  in  Great  Britain ,   by  G.  F.    Waagen  (translated  from  the 

German  by  Lady  Fastlake;  185i-7). 
Anecdotes  of  Painting  in  England,  "b-v  Horace  Walpole  (new  ed.,  in  3  vols., 

edited  by  R.N.  Wornum;  1887). 
♦The  Norman   Conquest,  by   E.   A.    Freeman    (6  vols.;   London,   1867-79). 

See,  in  particular,  chap.  26,  vol.  V. 
The  Making  of  England,  by  /.  R.  Green  (London,  18S1). 
The  Conquest  of  England,  by  J.  R.  Green  (London,  1883). 
•The  Historic  Towns  Series,'  edited  by   E.  A.  Freeman  and   the  Rev.   W. 

Hunt  (Longmans;  18S6  et  seq.) 
Popular  Countv  Histories,  a  series  now  publishing  by  Elliot  Stock. 
The  Races  of  Britain,  by  /.  Beddoe  (1886). 

Contributions  to  the  Physical  History  of  the  British  Isles,  by  Ed.  Hull  (1883). 
Physical   Geologv   and  Geography  of  Great  Britain,  by  Sir  A,   C.  Ramsay 

(last  ed.,  1878;  155.). 
Topographical  Botany,  bv  H.  C.   Watson  (2nd  ed.;  1883). 
British  Manufacturing  Industries,  by  G.  P.  Bevan  (14  vols.,  1876-8). 
Industries  of  Great  Britain,  published  by  Cassell:,  illus.  (3  vols.;  1880). 
The  Railways  of  England,  by  W.  M.  Acworth;  illus.  (1889). 
Among   the  numerous  comprehensive  works   of  the  older  English   topo- 
graphers may  be  mentioned  Brayley  and  Britton's  Beauties  of  England  and 
Wales  (1801-15;  18  vols.),  Camden^s  Britannia  (orig.  Latin   ed.,  1586;    2nd 
Eng.  ed.,  1806),  and  Lysons'  Magna  Britannia  (6  vols.;  1813). 


Ordnance  Survey  Maps.  The  whole  of  England  and  Wales  has  been 
published  on  the  scale  of  one  inch  to  a  mile,  in  360  quarter  sheets  (20X15 
inches;  Is.).  The  whole  of  Scotland  has  been  issued  on  the  same  scale 
(each  sheet  30  X  22  inches  ;  is.  9rf.).  Indexes  to  show  the  divisions  of  sheets 
sent  post-free  on  application  to  Edward  Stanford.,  26  Cockspur  St.,  Charing 
Cross.  London,  S.W.,  sole  London  agent  for  the  sale  of  the  Ordnance  Maps. 


Historical  Sketch  of  Architecture  in  England 

by 
Edward  A.  Freeman. 

It  follows  from  the  peculiar  history  of  Britain  that  the  history 
of  English  architecture  takes  a  different  course  from  that  of  the 
same  art  in  Gaul  and  Italy.  In  these  lands  it  is  possible  to  trace 
an  unbroken  succession  of  buildings  from  the  time  of  Roman 
dominion  down  to  our  own  day.  There  is  no  sudden  break  in 
architecture  any  more  than  in  anything  else ;  the  earliest  Romanesque 
grows  out  of  the  later  Roman.  Direct  Roman  influences,  the  imitation 
of  Roman  buildings,  the  use  of  Roman  materials,  go  on  for  ages ; 
in  Italy  a  strongly  classical  Romanesque  survives  to  meet  the 
earliest  Renaissance,  which  is  hardly  to  be  distinguished  from  it. 
In  Britain  on  the  other  hand,  the  complete  severance  from  the 
Roman  world  which  followed  on  the  settlement  of  the  Angles  and 
Saxons  hindered  any  such  continuity.  But  few  Roman  buildings 
lived  through  the  havoc  of  the  English  conquest,  and  those  that  did 
certainly  did  not  supply  the  Teutonic  conquerors  with  architectural 
models.  The  continuous  history  of  architecture  in  England  begins 
with  the  mission  of  Augustine  in  597,  or  perhaps  a  few  years 
earlier,  with  the  marriage  of  ^Ethelberht. 

The  existing  Roman  Remains  in  Britain  are  works  of  engineering 
rather  than  of  architecture.  No  building,  perfect  or  nearly  so, 
remains,  like  the  temples  and  amphitheatres  of  Aries,  Nimes,  and 
Vienne,  no  monument  like  those  of  Igel  near  Treves  and  of  Saint 
Remy  in  Provence.  It  may  be  safely  said  that  not  a  single  Roman 
column  is  now  standing  in  its  own  place  anywhere  in  Britain.  Even 
the  using  up  again  of  Roman  columns  in  later  buildings,  so  common 
in  southern  lands,  may  be  said  to  be  unknown;  an  example  in 
the  doorway  of  Saint  WooUos'  church  in  Monmouthshire  {f.  198) 
seems  to  be  unique.  The  greatest  of  all  Roman  works  in  Britain  is 
purely  military,  the  Great  Wall,  built  to  defend  the  Roman  pro- 
vince of  Britain  against  the  iiidependent  barbarians  to  the  North 
(see  p.  383).  This  is  wholly  of  stone.  Most  of  the  surviving  Roman 
works  in  Britain  are  in  the  late  Roman  manner  of  building,  where 
rows  of  small  stones  alternate  with  courses  of  narrow  bricks.  This 
construction,  common  in  Gaul  and  in  other  Roman  lands,  but  un- 
known in  Rome  itself,  may  be  seen  at  Leicester,  Lincoln,  and 
above  all ,  York ;  at  Lincoln  too  is  one  arch  of  a  Roman  gateway, 
besides  the  bases  and  stumps  of  a  row  of  columns.  The  nearest 
approach  to  a  perfect  Roman  building  is  to  be  found  in  the  Phuros 
in  Dover  castle.    Large  Roman  remains  are  also  to  be  seen  at  Bath, 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  C 


x^^^^  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

Silchester,  Aldborough  in  Yorkshire,  Wroxeter,  Saint  Albans,  and 
above  all  Colchester.  At  the  two  last  places  the  Roman  bricks  were 
largely  used  in  later  buildings  and  were  imitated  down  to  a  late 
time.  Remains  of  Roman  country  houses  are  frequently  brought  to 
light  by  digging,  as  a  very  remarkable  one  lately  at  Brading  in  the 
Isle  of  Wight.  The  mass  of  Roman  remains  underground  in  England 
is  undoubtedly  very  large  ;  it  is  the  rarity  of  whole  buildings  or  large 
parts  of  buildings  which  forms  the  contrast  witli  more  southern  lands. 

The  art  of  architecture  in  England  began  with  the  first  building 
of  churches.  A  church  of  the  Roman  time  at  Canterbury  was  repair- 
ed for  the  use  of  ^Ethelberht's  Christian  queen,  and  new  churches 
were  built  by  Augustine  at  Canterbury,  by  Paulinus  at  York  and 
Lincoln,  and  by  others  of  the  early  bishops  and  of  the  kings  who 
favotired  them.  They  naturally  built  in  the  Roman  fashion  of  the 
time,  ^more  Romano'  is  the  phrase  often  used  of  these  early  build- 
ings; but  the  earliest  examples  were  necessarily  small  and  rude. 
None  is  actually  standing,  unless  we  accept  the  church  in  Dover  castle 
as  the  work  of  Eadbald.  But  there  is  little  doubt  that  some  of  the 
masonry  of  King  Edwin's  church  at  York  may  be  seen  in  the  crypt 
of  the  minster.  Indeed  during  the  whole  five  hundred  years  between 
the  conversion  and  the  Norman  Conquest,  we  have  comparatively 
few  churches  —  we  have  no  other  buildings  —  left,  and  those  for 
the  most  part  small  and  plain.  The  great  cathedral  and  monastic 
churches  were  all  but  universally  rebuilt  soon  after  the  Nor- 
man Conquest;  the  buildings  of  earlier  date  that  remain  were 
mostly  preserved  by  their  own  obscurity.  But  there  is  no  greater 
mistake  than  to  siippose  that  Englishmen  before  the  Norman  Con- 
quest were  incapable  of  building  or  incapable  of  building  in  stone. 
The  use  of  wood  was  common,  more  common  than  in  later  times ; 
but  then,  as  in  later  times,  its  use  was  largely  a  question  of  district. 
In  the  eleventh  century  a  church  of  'stone  and  lime'  is  mentioned 
as  remarkable  in  Essex,  while  a  wooden  church  is  mentioned  as 
remarkable  in  Somerset.  The  last  was  the  ancient  church  of 
Glastonbury,  the  only  church  of  the  Britons  of  which  we  have  any 
distinct  record  which  lived  on  through  the  English  conquest.  In  the 
eighth  century  a  stone  church  was  built  to  the  east  of  it ;  in  the 
twelfth  the  wooden  structure  was  itself  replaced  by  a  stone  one.  And 
though  the  surviving  churches  older  than  the  Conquest  are  all  small 
and  plain,  we  have  distinct  evidence  from  contemporary  descrip- 
tions, as  of  Wilfrith  at  York  and  Ripon  in  the  seventh  century  and 
of  ^thelwald  at  Winchester  in  the  tenth ,  that  large ,  rich ,  and 
elaborate  buildings  were  perfectly  well  known. 

The  style  of  building  doubtless  varied  in  the  space  of  five 
hundred  years ;  but  it  varied  very  much  less  than  in  the  five  hun- 
dred years  that  followed.  The  buildings  of  this  date  belong  to  one 
general  type  of  Romanesque,  one  that  differs  widely  from  the  Nor- 
man type  of  Romanesque  that  followed  it.    But  it  is  misleading  to 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  ^^^v 

talk  of  a  'Saxon'  or  'Anglo-Saxon'  style.  English  buildings  may 
well  have  had  their  local  peculiarities  even  then,  but  there  is  nothing 
about  these  early  buildings  which  entitles  them  to  be  classed  as 
belongingto  a  distinct  style  from  the  contemporary  buildings  on  the 
continent.  Down  to  the  middle  of  the  eleventh  century,  all  Western 
Europe  had  a  common  style  ;  in  the  course  of  that  century,  several 
countries  struck  out  local  types,  as  in  Northern  and  Southern  Gaul 
and  in  Northern  Italy;  Germany  clave  to  the  older  style  and  im- 
proved and  developed  it.  The  small  and  plain  'Saxon'  buildings 
of  England  are  simply  ruder  examples  of  the  same  style  as  the 
great  German  churches  of  the  twelfth  century.  But  the  style  is 
as  little  of  German  as  of  English  origin  ;  it  is  the  common  heritage 
which  the  whole  West  received  from  the  common  centre  at  Rome. 
As  no  great  church  earlier  than  the  Norman  Conquest  remains 
in  England,  and  not  many  perfect  churches  of  any  scale,  our  ac- 
count of  our  early  buildings  is  necessarily  fragmentary.  Small  pieces 
of  work  either  actually  older  than  the  Norman  Conquest  or  at  all 
events  belonging  to  the  fashion  of  building  which  prevailed  before 
the  Norman  Conquest,  are  common  enough,  specially  in  particular 
districts,  as  Northamptonshire.  We  have  to  compare  what  little 
we  have  left  with  contemporary  descriptions,  and  with  analogoiis 
work  in  other  lands.  If  the  church  in  Dover  castle  attached  to  the  Ro- 
man Pharos  is  really  Eadbald's  work,  it  must  be  the  oldest  surviving 
church  in  England.  The  large  and  strange  church  of  Bxixworth 
in  Northamptonshire  was  either  a  Roman  building  turned  into  a 
church  or  a  church  built  out  of  Roman  materials  in  the  seventh 
century.  But  the  most  perfect  examples  of  very  early  churches  in 
England  are  two  on  a  very  small  scale,  in  Northern  and  Southern 
England  severally,  the  old  church  at  Bradford-on-Avon  in  Wilt- 
shire ,  built  by  Saint  Ealdhelm  between  675  and  709 ,  and  the 
church  of  Escomb  in  Durham.  Jarrow  and  Monkwearmouth,  also 
in  Durham,  the  former  the  dwelling-place  of  Baeda,  contain  large 
portions  as  old  as  his  day  (674-735  ).  On  a  larger  scale  and  probably 
later  is  the  church  of  Worth  in  Sussex,  a  cruciform  building.  To 
reckon  up  all  the  examples  of  small  portions  of  work  of  this  type 
would  be  endless.  In  all  there  is  a  closer  tradition  of  Roman  work 
than  we  see  in  the  later  Norman  form  of  Romanesque.  There  is  a 
tendency  to  large  stones,  to  flat  jambs,  to  windows  with  a  double 
splay  (as  in  the  German  churches  of  the  twelfth  century),  to  the 
fashion  of  covering  walls  with  horizontal  and  vertical  strips,  and  to 
a  peculiar  arrangement  of  masonry  at  the  angles,  known  as  lony 
and  short  work.  This  last  too  is  a  Roman  feature;  it  may  be  seen 
on  a  vast  scale  in  the  amphitheatre  at  Verona.  As  we  have  no 
aisled  church  of  this  date  surviving,  it  is  not  easy  to  speak  of  the 
interiors.  That  columns  were  used  is  plain  from  descriptions; 
they  are  still  standing  in  the  crypt  at  Repton  in  Derbyshire,  where 
some  other  columns  remain  moved  from  their  places.    They  belong 


xxxvi  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

to  the  same  general  type  as  those  in  some  of  the  earlier  churches 
of  Germany,  as  at  Hildesheim.  The  straight-  sided  arch  is  often 
used,  as  in  Auvergne  and  in  the  gateway  at  Lorsch,  which  last  has 
very  much  the  character  of  these  early  huildings  in  England. 

But  the  distinguishing  feature  is  the  towers.  Still  there  is  in 
these  too  nothing  peculiar  to  England.  They  are  simply  smaller 
and  ruder  examples  of  a  type  which  went  on  in  use  in  Germany 
and  Italy  to  a  much  later  date  and  in  much  more  artistic  shapes. 
They  are  tall,  slender,  unbuttressed,  with  small  round-headed 
windows,  with  shafts  (sometimes  balusters)  set  in  the  middle  of 
the  wall,  whence  the  name  of  midu^all  shafts.  The  windows  are 
set  in  groups  pf  two  or  more,  but  they  are  never  grouped  under  a 
containing  arch,  as  in  the  Norman  style  that  follosved.  The  towers 
seldom  keep  their  finish  at  the  top;  but  an  original  capping  may 
be  seen  at  Sompting  in  Sussex,  the  low  four -sided  spire  so  com- 
mon in  Germany,  as  at  Coblenz.  This  type  of  tower,  plain  and 
stern,  loftier  than  the  ordinary  Norman  type,  has  a  singular 
dignity  of  its  own  which  caused  it  to  remain  in  use  for  some 
while  after  the  Normau  Conquest,  sometimes  even  into  the  twelfth 
century.  The  evidence  of  Domesday  proves  that  the  towers  of  this 
style  in  the  lower  town  of  Lincoln  were  built  between  1068  and 
1085.  while  the  minster  and  the  castle  were  rising  on  the  hill,  in 
the  wholly  different  Norman  style.  It  is  plain  that,  while  the 
new  fashion  prevailed  in  other  respects,  men  still  often  built 
towers  of  the  elder  type  by  choice.  In  Lindsey  (North  Lincoln- 
shire! towers  of  this  kind  may  be  almost  called  common  ;  there 
are  several  in  Northumberland  and  Northamptonshire ;  in  some 
districts,  as  Somerset,  they  are  quite  unknown.  Among  the  finest, 
and  those  which  have  the  most  distinctive  character  of  their  own, 
are  those  of  Earls  Barton  in  Northamptonshire  and  Barton-on- 
Humber  in  Lincolnshire,  loaded  with  rude  enrichment,  Saint  Bene't 
at  Cambridge,  and  Saint  Michael  at  Oxford.  This  last,  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe,  belongs  to  the  reign  of  William  the  Con- 
queror, and  is  contemporary  with  the  work  in  the  castle  of  some- 
what the  same  kind.  That  this  Primitive  Romanesque  style,  com- 
mon to  England  with  all  Western  Europe,  is  something  quite 
distinct  from  the  later  Norman  Romanesque  is  best  shown  by  these 
examples  of  the  two  fashions  used  side  by  side. 

Of  this  Primitive  Romanesque  there  is  a  good  deal  in  some 
parts  of  Gaul,  specially  towers  in  the  Pyrenees,  and  buildings 
in  those  parts  of  Western  Switzerland  which  formed  part  of  the 
kingdom  of  Burgundy.  The  great  church  of  Romainmotier  in  Vaud 
is  plainly  kindred  with  the  smaller  and  fragmentary  English  build- 
ings. In  Normandy  there  is  exceedingly  little  work  of  this  kind, 
perhaps  not  a  single  tower  with  midwalls.  One  cause  is  this,  that 
in  the  middle  of  the  eleventh  century,  there  arose  in  Normandy, 
perhaps  under  influences  from  North  Italy,  a  very  distinct  type  of 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  xxxvu 

Romanesque,  just  as  other  types  arose  in  Auvergne  and  elsewhere. 
This  Norman  Variety  of  Rom  axbsqub  was  first  brought  into  England 
by  the  Norman  tastes  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  whose  great  church 
at  Westminster,  consecrated  in  1065,  was  distinctly  said  by  William 
of  Malmesbury  in  the  next  century  to  have  been  built  in  a  new 
style  of  building  which  continued  in  fashion  in  his  own  day;  that 
is  of  course  the  style  known  as  Norman.  Introduced  under  Edward, 
its  use  was  confirmed  by  the  actual  Conquest  under  William,  and 
it  gradually  displaced  the  earlier  mode  of  building.  By  the  end 
of  the  eleventh  century,  most  of  the  great  churches  of  England 
had  been  rebuilt  in  the  new  style.  The  reason  seems  to  have  been 
mainly  that  their  size  was  not  great  enough  for  the  taste  of  the 
Norman  prelates,  who  took  in  England  to  building  churches  on  a 
gigantic  scale,  such  as  they  certainly  had  not  been  used  to  in  their 
own  country.  It  would  almost  seem  that  Edward's  church,  which 
was  of  vast  size,  set  the  example.  It  could  hardly  have  been  that 
the  English  churches  were  condemned  for  lack  of  ornament,  as 
the  early  Norman  buildings  are  remarkably  plain,  even  more  so 
than  those  that  went  before  them.  And  throughout  the  pre- 
valence of  the  Norman  style  the  greatest  amount  of  ornament  is  to 
be  found  in  the  smallest  buildings.  And  in  truth  no  style  can 
better  dispense  with  ornament;  none  can  better  trust  to  sheer 
stateliness  and  solemnity  of  general  effect.  In  this  it  recalls  the 
old  Doric  of  Greece. 

The  Norman  form  of  Romanesque  prevailed  in  England  from 
the  middle  of  the  eleventh  century  to  the  end  of  the  twelfth;  but 
it  went  through  several  changes  during  that  time,  mostly  in  the 
direction  of  increased  lightness  and  ornament.  The  earliest  Norman 
minsters  are  of  vast  size,  very  massive  and  very  plain,  and  they 
sometimes  keep  about  them  some  traces  of  the  earlier  style.  So  it 
is  in  Saint  Albans  abbey,  the  vastest  of  all  and  the  plainest  of 
all,  being  chiefly  built  out  of  Roman  bricks  from  Verulam.  The 
transepts  of  Winchester  cathedral  (1079-93)  arc  of  the  same  date, 
and  also  keep  some  Primitive  traces,  but  the  effect  of  the  stone 
church  is  very  different  from  that  of  the  brick.  Norwich  cathedral 
is  a  little  later  (1096-1109)  and  rather  more  advanced  in  style; 
but  it  belongs  on  the  whole  to  the  early  Norman  type  of  church 
with  low  massive  piers  and  triforium  as  large  or  nearly  so  as  the 
pier-arch.  Gloucester  abbey  (1089-  1100)  shows  another  type, 
in  which  the  piers,  though  massive,  are  very  lofty,  and  the  triforium 
and  clerestory  small;  this  is  carried  yet  further  in  the  abbey  of 
Tewkesbury  (^1102-21).  The  usual  arrangement  among  the  great 
churches  of  this  time  was  the  cross  shape  with  a  central  tower, 
and  most  commonly  two  towers  at  the  west  end,  a  long  western 
limb  —  the  choir  being  under  the  tower  or  even  west  of  it  —  and 
a  short  eastern  limb  with  an  apse.  The  style  is  easily  distinguished 
from  the  earlier  style  by  its  use  of  shafts  in  the  jambs  of  doors  and 


xxxvm  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

windows,  by  the  single  splay  of  the  windows,  by  the  coupling  of 
belfry  windows  under  an  arch,  and  by  the  beginning  of  a  system  of 
surface  mouldings  which  gradually  increased  in  richness.  The  strips 
and  long-and-short  work  of  the  Primitive  style  go  out  of  use,  and 
we  get  instead  flat  pilaster  buttresses.  Two  forms  of  capital  are 
very  characteristic  of  the  Norman  style,  the  cushion  capital,  an 
imitation  of  the  Doric  which  lasted  through  the  whole  Norman 
period,  and  a  rude  imitation  of  the  Ionic,  which  is  used  only  in  its 
earlier  stages.  The  piers  are  sometimes  square,  with  shafts  in  the 
angles,  sometimes  round,  but  far  too  heavy  to  be  called  columns ; 
the  genuine  column  is  hardly  found,  except  in  crypts.  The  relation 
to  Roman  architecture  is  quite  different  in  the  Primitive  style  and 
in  the  Norman.  In  the  older  style  it  is  not  so  much  that  Roman 
forms  are  imitated  as  that  survivals  of  them  are  kept  on  by  unbroken 
tradition.  The  Norman  style  (^like  the  other  contemporary  forms 
of  Romanesque!  shows  a  conscious  and  eclectic  imitation  of  parti- 
cular Roman  details,  as  we  have  just  seen  in  the  shafts;  but  in  its 
spirit  and  feeling  it  departs  much  further  from  Roman  work.  But 
the  comparison  can  hardly  be  made  in  England ,  where  no  great 
Primitive  church  survives.  The  difference  is  well  seen  by  com- 
paring a  Norman  minster  with  an  early  German  one,  as  at  Hildesheim. 

The  beginning  of  a  new  variety  of  Norman  is  seen  in  Durham 
abbey,  begun  in  1093  by  Bishop  William  of  Saint  Calais.  He 
died  in  1096  ,  having  finished  only  the  eastern  part  of  the  church. 
Here  we  get  a  less  massive  proportion ;  the  round  pillars  are  not 
so  extravagantly  lofty  as  at  Gloucester  and  Tewkesbury,  while  they 
give  a  much  higher  pier-arch  and  a  much  lower  triforium  than 
Winchester  and  Norwich.  They  are  fluted  in  various  forms,  a 
peculiarity  found  elsewhere  (as  in  a  few  at  Norwich),  but  chiefly  in 
churches  coseval  with  Durham,  as  Waltham,  Dunfermline,  and 
Lindisfarne  —  the  last  much  later  in  the  style.  Durham  in  short 
has  hit  on  the  most  perfect  proportions  that  the  style  allows  ;  it 
is  as  distinctly  the  head  of  Norman  Romanesque  as  Pisa  is  the 
head  of  the  Italian  and  Saint  Sernin  at  Toulouse  of  the  Aquitanian 
variety  of  the  style.  The  work  is  more  finished  than  in  the  earlier 
buildings,  and  more  of  ornament  comes  in;  but  the  building  cannot 
be  called  rich.  It  shows  how  architecture  was  affected  by  the 
genius  of  particular  men,  and  how  independent  style  sometimes  is 
of  date,  that  after  Bishop  William's  death  the  transepts  were 
continued  by  the  monks  in  a  much  plainer  and  ruder  style  which 
anybody  would  take  to  be  twenty  or  thirty  years  older  than  the  wo^rk 
which  isreally  earlier  thanitself.  Then  came  Bishop  RandolfFlambard 
and  continued  the  nave  from  Bishop  William's  general  design,  but 
with  a  certain  increase  of  ornament. 

The  work  of  William  of  Saint-Calais  marks  a  stage  intermediate 
between  the  very  early  and  plain  and  the  very  late  and  rich  Nor- 
man.    The  beginning    of  the  latter  is  duo  to  Bishop   Roger  of 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  ^^^ix 

Salisbury,  the  minister  of  Henry  the  First,  a  great  builder  both  of 
churches  and  castles.  He  brought  in  both  great  enrichment  in 
detail  and  the  use  of  more  finely-jointed  masonry.  Men  said  that 
his  buildings  looked  as  if  they  were  all  of  one  stone.  This  style 
and  the  early  Norman  can  be  well  compared  in  the  west  front  of 
Lincoln  minster,  where  the  plain  work  of  the  original  founder 
Bishop  Remigius  (1085-1092)  is  contrasted  in  a  marked  way  with 
the  more  elaborate  detail  of  the  parts  built  by  Bishop  Alexander 
(1146),  the  nephew  of  Roger  of  Salisbury.  This  middle  Nor- 
man style  of  Roger  is  perhaps  hardly  to  be  found  in  the  whole 
of  any  church  of  great  size;  but  we  may  assign  to  it  many  build- 
ings and  parts  of  buildings  which  show  a  certain  increase  of  light- 
ness, but  without  either  the  excessive  ornament  or  the  classical 
tendency  of  the  next  stage.  Saint  Peter's  at  Northampton  may 
perhaps  pass  as  an  example.  In  truth  the  development  of  art 
which  was  started  by  Roger  was  thrown  back  by  the  anarchy  of 
Stephen's  day,  and  took  life  again  under  Henry  the  Second.  The 
Norman  style  of  his  day  grows  richer  and  richer,  lighter  and  lighter; 
the  appropriate  surface  ornament  of  the  style  is  now  wrought  into 
most  elaborate  shapes ;  columns  are  used  wherever  the  weight  to  be 
borne  was  not  too  heavy  for  them;  the  capitals  forsake  the  ruder 
types  of  the  earlier  Norman,  either  for  more  elaborate  forms  of  the 
old  cushion  or  even  for  foliage  almost  reproducing  the  richness 
of  the  ancient  Corinthian.  Of  this  late  Norman  style  we  have  many 
examples ;  of  course  all  do  not  reach  the  same  measure  of  richness  ; 
but  the  feeling  is  essentially  the  same  throughout.  Such  are  the 
nave  of  Saint  David's  cathedral,  Selby  abbey,  Worksop  priory,  the 
western  church  at  Glastonbury  (commonly  known  as  Saint  Joseph's 
chapel),  the  hall  of  Oakham  castle,  the  church  of  Iffley  near  Ox- 
ford, and  many  others.  None  departs  so  widely  from  the  idea  of 
Norman  Romanesque  as  a  massive  style  as  the  Galilee  or  Western 
chapel  of  Durham  abbey.  There  the  arches  originally  rested  on 
two  slender  shafts  under  a  single  abacus ,  a  feature  found  in  some 
Roman  buildings  and  specially  adopted  by  the  Saracens.  It  is 
common  in  cloisters  in  Aquitaine,  Italy,  and  Sicily,  but  it  seems 
a  strange  shape  for  the  piers  of  a  considerable  building.  At  a 
later  time  it  was  clearly  deemed  unsafe,  and  two  other  shafts  were 
added  for  strength.  Through  all  this  time  the  rule  still  holds  that, 
the  greater  the  building,  the  plainer  it  is.  Very  few  churches  on 
the  scale  of  Saint  David's  are  so  rich,  and  Saint  David's  is  one  of 
the  smaller  cathedral  churches.  Throughout  the  Norman  style, 
both  early  and  late,  special  attention  was  paid  to  the  doorways. 
Small  and  otherwise  plain  churches  often  have  a  doorway  of  con- 
siderable richness,  and  Norman  doorways  have  often  been  preserved 
when  the  rest  of  the  building  has  been  rebuilt  in  a  later  style. 
The  reason  doubtless  is  that  a  doorway  has  more  of  separate  exist- 
ence than  most  other  features.     This  is  specially  true  where  the 


^^  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

doorway  is  under  a  porcli ;  "but  porches  are  rare  in  Norman  churclies, 
though  there  is  a  fine  one  at  Southwell  minster. 

During  the  Norman  period  we  are  no  longer  confined  to 
churches  and  their  appurtenances  as  subjects  of  architectural  study. 
We  have  a  store  of  castles  and  some  houses  to  refer  to.  It  is  per- 
haps hardly  needful  to  say  that  at  no  period  of  good  art  was  there 
any  special  style  for  churches  or  for  any  other  class  of  buildings. 
The  different  purposes  of  a  church,  a  castle,  a  house,  a  barn,  will 
cause  great  differences  of  form,  outline,  proportion,  among  the 
different  classes  of  buildings :  but  the  style,  strictly  so-called,  the 
details,  the  ornamental  forms,  are  always  the  same.  A  military 
building  is  likely  to  have  less  ornament  than  an  ecclesiastical  one  ; 
but  those  parts  of  it  which  are  enriched  will  be  enriched  in  the 
same  way.  Thus  we  have  mentioned  the  hall  of  Oakham  castle. 
This,  like  many  other  early  halls  and  monastic  infirmaries,  has 
columns  and  arches  which  might  just  as  well  have  stood  in  a  church. 
The  castle,  a  novelty  of  Norman  introduction,  now  became  a  chief 
feature  in  the  architecture  of  England  as  of  other  countries.  The 
usual  type  of  the  Norman  castle  has  for  its  main  feature  the  massive 
rectangular  keep,  which,  without  changing  its  essential  character, 
may  either  swell  into  such  vast  buildings  as  those  of  London  and 
Colchester  or  sink  into  the  peel-tower  of  the  borders  of  England  and 
Scotland,  which  are  simply  the  Norman  keep  on  a  very  small  scale. 
Pre-eminent  among  the  Norman  castles  of  England  is  the  Con- 
queror's own  fortress  planted  to  keep  London  in  awe.  The  Tower  of 
London,  built  by  Gundulf,  Bishop  of  Rochester,  shows  how  the  plain 
and  early  Norman  style  could  be  wrought  into  perfectly  finished 
forms  in  military  as  well  as  in  ecclesiastical  work.  Its  most  in- 
teresting part,  the  chapel,  unites  both  characters.  It  is  plain  but 
not  rude,  with  columns  and  an  apse  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall. 
This  great  building  may  be  compared  with  the  small  tower  which 
Gundulf  built  for  himself  at  Mailing  in  Kent.  The  castle  of 
Rochester  is  not  his  work,  but  that  of  Archbishop  William  Corbeil 
(1126-1139);  it  is  an  excellent  example  of  much  the  same  style 
as  Bishop  Roger,  a  great  advance  in  ornament,  but  with  much  of 
the  massiveness  of  the  elder  style  living  on.  And  it  is  now  in  a 
castle  rather  than  a  church,  in  the  remains  of  his  castle  at  Sher- 
borne that  we  can  best  study  the  work  of  Roger  himself.  Another 
type  of  castle,  less  usual  during  this  period  than  the  square  tower, 
and  less  easily  lending  itself  to  architectural  forms,  was  the  Shell 
kepe,  a  single  wall,  commonly  polygonal.  This  is  chiefly  found  when 
the  castle  was  built  on  a  mound  of  earth  which  might  not  have 
borne  the  weight  of  the  heavy  square  tower. 

Houses,  strictly  so  called,  are  still  rare,  but  there  are  a  few 
examples.  Some  of  the  best  are  in  towns,  as  at  Lincoln  and  Bury 
Saint  Edmunds,  where  they  bear  the  name  of  Jews,  and  some  have 
thought  that  stone  houses  in  towns  at  this  date  were  first  built  by 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  ^li 

Jews.  A  contemporary  -writer  speaks  of  their  'houses  like  the 
palaces  of  kings'.  There  is  some  other  domestic  Norman  work  at 
Lincoln,  namely  Saint  Mary's  Gnild,  commonly  called  John  of 
Gaunt's  stahles.  There  is  also  a  house  of  very  late  Norman  just 
outside  Cambridge,  called  Pythagoras'  School.  And  there  are  a 
few  others  elsewhere.  But  for  the  best  examples  of  domestic 
architecture  at  this  time,  we  must  look,  not  so  much  to  houses 
strictly  so  called,  as  to  those  parts  of  castles  and  monasteries  which 
were  not  military  or  religious.  Of  monastic  buildings  of  this  date 
a  good  deal  is  left,  as  very  largely  at  Christ  Church,  Canterbury. 
The  great  hall  of  the  palace  of  Westminster,  as  built  by  William 
Rufus ,  must  have  been  a  wonderful  specimen  of  early  Norman 
work,  with  two  rows  of  pillars  and  arches,  as  in  the  later  hall  at 
Oakham  (1175-1191).  But  it  was  recast  in  the  fourteenth  century, 
and  the  architectural  features  are  lost.  Of  Romanesque  applied  in 
municipal  buildings,  in  which  Italy  is  so  rich,  England  has  now 
perhaps  nothing  to  show;  but  examples  survived  not  so  long  ago 
at  Exeter  and  Colchester. 

We  now  come  to  the  great  change  by  which  the  style  known  as 
Gothic  or  Pointed  gradually  took  the  place  of  Romanesque.  This 
style,  it  must  be  remembered,  in  England  supplanted  the  Norman 
variety  of  Romanesque;  in  Germany  it  supplanted  a  developed 
form  of  that  earlier  Romanesque  which  in  England  died  out  before 
the  Norman.  This  change  implies  a  great  deal  more  than  the  mere 
introduction  of  the  pointed  arch.  The  pointed  arch  is  really  as 
old  as  the  round,  and  its  shape  is  actually  found  in  some  of  the 
earliest  attempts  at  the  arch  in  Greece  and  Italy.  It  was  used  by 
the  Saracens  for  some  centuries  before  the  time  to  which  we  have 
come,  and  from  them  it  was  brought  into  the  Christian  buildings  of 
Sicily  and  Southern  Gaul  at  least  as  early  as  the  eleventh  century. 
In  those  countries  the  pointed  arch  by  itself  is  no  sign  of  approach- 
ing Gothic,  and  the  buildings  in  which  it  is  used  show  no  other  mark 
of  approach  to  that  style.  In  England,  France,  and  Germany,  the 
mere  use  of  the  pointed  arch  was  most  likely  brought  in  from  the 
East  by  the  crusaders;  so  that  it  is  in  a  sense  of  Saracen  origin 
in  those  countries  also.  But  the  Saracens,  while  using  the  pointed 
arch ,  had  never  developed  a  system  of  ornament  which  tho- 
roughly suited  it.  This  last  is  exactly  what  the  architects  of 
northern  countries  did,  and,  in  so  doing,  produced  the  style  called 
Gothic,  a  name  absurd  enough  in  itself,  as  it  had  nothing  whatever 
to  do  with  any  Goths,  but  which  may  be  accepted,  as  being  c.om- 
monly  understood.  The  process  by  which  the  new  style  was  deve- 
loped out  of  the  old,  followed  somewhat  different  stages  in  Eng- 
land. France,  and  Germany,  but  the  general  result  was  the  same 
in  all.  Each  country  produced  its  own  characteristic  form  of 
Gothic.     Thus   in  England  mouldings  developed  faster  than  they 


xlii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

did  in  France,  while  in  France  windows  developed  faster  than  they 
did  in  England.  We  have  here  to  do  with  the  process  of  change, 
the  Transitional  style  between  Romanesque  and  Gothic,  as  it  went 
on  in  England,  First  of  all ,  the  pointed  arch  came  in  as  a  con- 
structive feature,  without  any  new  system  of  ornament;  the 
arches  are  either  plain  or  have  Romanesque  ornaments.  It  is  not 
uncommon  to  see  the  great  constructive  arches  of  a  church,  the 
pier-arches  and  those  of  the  vault,  pointed,  while  all  the  smaller 
arches  are  still  round.  There  can  be  no  better  example  than  the  nave 
of  Malmesbury  abbey,  a  grand  massive  design,  Romanesque  in 
everything,  except  the  form  of  the  pier -arches.  Gradually  the 
pointed  arch  came  in  in  other  places  besides  the  main  arches; 
gradually  too  the  ornament  changes,  from  the  flat  surface  of  the 
Romanesque  to  a  system  of  deep  mouldings,  rounds  and  hollows, 
affecting  the  section.  As  a  general  rule,  the  constructive  lines 
become  Gothic,  while  the  mouldings  are  still  largely  Romanesque; 
but  sometimes  things  take  the  opposite  course ,  and  we  find  round 
arches  with  Gothic  mouldings  nearly  or  wholly  developed.  This 
is  a  local  fashion  in  Northamptonshire;  as  the  Norman  doorways 
were  so  much  admired  and  often  preserved,  so  something  in  the 
Norman  fashion  went  on  in  doorways  when  it  had  gone  out  of  use 
in  other  features.  The  Norman  ornaments  went  on  longer  in  this 
district  than  elsewhere,  and  the  round  arch  went  on  longer  than 
the  ornaments.  This  Transitional  period  is  a  most  interesting 
study,  and  there  are  many  fine  examples  of  it.  Such  are  the  whole 
eastern  part  of  Canterbury  cathedral  (1175-84),  part  of  the  nave 
of  Worcester,  Glastonbury  abbey,  both  the  eastern  and  the 
western  church,  while  a  plain  type  will  be  found  among  the 
Cistercians,  as  at  Kirkstall.  But  the  most  instructive  examples 
are  to  be  found  at  Peterborough  and  Ely,  examples  of  the  way 
in  which,  while  the  Transition  was  fast  going  on,  men  some- 
times followed  an  earlier  type  for  some  particular  reason.  Both 
these  naves  were  built  quite  late  in  the  twelfth  century,  but,  being 
adapted  to  earlier  Romanesque  work ,  they  keep  the  proportions 
and  general  effect  of  the  earlier  style ,  though  a  narrow  exami- 
nation will  show  that  the  mouldings  are  considerably  advajiced  in 
the  new  fashion.  But,  as  soon  as  the  west  front  Avas  reached, 
where  adaptation  to  an  earlier  model  was  no  longer  held  needful, 
later  outlines  as  well  as  details  came  in  freely. 

The  earliest  type  of  English  Gothic,  called  by  different  writers 
Early  English  and  Lancet,  had  pretty  well  reached  perfection  by 
the  last  years  of  the  twelfth  century.  Saint  Hugh's  work  at  Lin- 
coln must  be  reckoned  as  belonging  to  it,  though  it  is  perhaps  not 
quite  clear  of  Romanesque  traces.  The  perfect  English  form  of  this 
style  is  all  but  peculiar  to  England ;  one  or  two  examples  may  per- 
haps be  found  in  Normandy.    We  may  define  it  as  the  style  which 


or  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  ^li" 

combines  the  use  of  the  simple  lancet  in  windows  with  the  use  of 
the  round  abacus  in  shafts.  This  distinguishes  it  from  contemporary 
French  work,  where  fully  developed  tracery  in  the  windows  is 
constantly  found  along  with  the  square  abacus.  The  English  work 
also  has  much  bolder  mouldings;  it  deals  much  more  in  detached 
shafts  —  a  favourite  kind  of  pillar  is  a  column  with  small  banded 
shafts  round  it;  the  foliage  of  its  capitals  is  freer,  and  departs 
farther  from  classical  models.  On  the  other  hand,  the  French  style 
is  far  richer  in  sculpture,  above  all  in  the  magnificent  doorways 
which  have  hardly  any  fellows  in  England.  The  difference  between 
the  two  countries  may  be  best  seen  by  comparing  (as  has  often  been 
done)  the  two  churches  of  Amiens  and  Salisbury,  which  were 
building  at  the  same  time.  The  French  church  has  as  much  the 
advantage  in  the  windows  and  doorways  as  the  English  has  in  all 
the  smaller  details.  But  there  is  a  local  variety  of  the  English 
Early  Gothic  which  comes  far  nearer  to  the  French  style,  having 
square  or  octagonal  abaci,  less  bold  mouldings,  and  few  or  no  de- 
tached shafts ;  the  capitals  of  the  shafts  too  are  far  more  like 
French  work.  This  style  is  found  in  the  West  of  England  and  South 
Wales ;  that  it  is  strictly  a  lingering  of  Romanesque  feeling  is 
shown  by  several  of  the  details  showing  themselves  in  the  late 
Romanesque  of  Saint  David's  and  the  Transitional  work  at  Glas- 
tonbury. It  is  continued  in  more  fully  developed  Gothic  at  Llan- 
daff  cathedral,  and  it  may  be  best  studied  at  Wells,  where  it  can 
be  compared  with  work  of  the  more  usual  English  kind  in  the  same 
church.  This  style  is  also  to  be  found  in  several  smaller  buildings 
in  the  district  to  which  it  belongs  ;  the  inner  porch  of  Saint  Mary 
Redcliff  at  Bristol,  the  church  of  Slymbridge  in  Gloucestershire, 
and  the  small  churches  of  Whitchurch  in  Somerset  and  Cheriton 
in  Gower  will  supply  good  examples. 

It  was  in  the  thirteenth  century,  during  the  prevalence  of  this 
Early  Gothic  style,  that  English  churches,  great  and  small,  put  on 
those  peculiar  features  which  distinguish  them  from  those  of  the 
continent,  especially  from  those  of  Francef.  Even  in  the  twelfth 
century,  the  English  churches  began  to  throw  out  much  longer 
choirs,  a  practice  which  perhaps  began  at  Canterbury  under  Saint 
Anselm,  and  which  in  the  thirteenth  century  became  the  rule. 
The  next  stage  was  to  leave  off  the  apse  and  to  use  a  square  east 
end,  either   with  a  single  large  window  or  group  of  windows,  or 


t  The  words  France  and  French  in  these  comparisons  must  he  under- 
stood of  France  in  the  strictest  sense,  or  at  all  events  only  of  the  lands 
north  of  the  Loire.  Southern  Gaul,  which  gradually  became  French  in 
a  political  sense,  had  nothing  to  do  with  France  architecturally,  save 
that  some  grand  French  churches  were  here  and  there  built  in  those 
lands  as  something  quite  foreign.  But  the  native  style  at  all  times  is  so 
different  that,  widely  as  French  and  English  buildings  differ  from  each 
other,  we  may  put  them  together  as  a  single 'Northern  manner  of  building, 
as  distinguished  from  the  national  architecture  of  Aquitaine  and  Provence. 


^liY  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

■with  a  lower  Lady  chapel  beyond  it.  Even  in  the  Norman  period, 
thougli  the  apse  was  all  but  universal  in  the  great  English  churches 
—  it  remains  at  Peterborough  and  Norwich  —  it  was  the  exception 
in  the  small  churches,  and  from  the  thirteenth  century  onwards  an 
apse  in  an  English  parish  church  is  most  rare,  and  the  few  that  there 
are  are  mostly  much  later  than  this  time.  Indeed  even  in  cathed- 
ral and  other  great  churches  the  apse  is  very  rare,  being  of  course, 
where  it  is  found,  polygonal  and  not  round.  So  we  see  at  West- 
minster abbey,  great  part  of  which  is  really  French  work  on 
English  soil,  and  in  the  smaller  abbeys  of  Tewkesbury  and  Pershore. 
The  central  tower  remained  the  almost  universal  rule  for  great 
churches  —  Exeter  and  Llandaff  are  the  only  real  exceptions  — 
while  in  France  (save  in  Normandy)  it  went  out  of  use  in  the  great 
churches,  and  remained  far  more  common  in  smaller  ones  than  it 
is  in  England.  A  great  English  church  is  usually  much  longer  and 
lower  than  a  French  one ;  the  English  church  has  the  better  external 
grouping,  while  the  French  church  has  the  grander  internal  effect; 
Saint  Ouen  at  Rouen  alone  contrives  to  combine  the  merits  of 
both.  Again  in  England  there  grew  up  a  type  of  parish  church, 
wholly  different  from  the  minster,  but  just  as  good  in  its  own  way, 
while  in  France,  where  a  small  church  has  any  architectural  merit, 
it  is  commonly  (not  always)  by  way  of  reproducing  the  minster  on 
a  small  scale.  A  French  church  was  always  vaulted  whenever  it 
could  be ;  a  wooden  roof,  whenever  there  is  one,  is  a  mere  shift. 
But  in  England  the  vault  is  rare  indeed  in  small  churches  and 
is  not  altogether  universal  in  minsters.  It  was  clearly  omitted  by 
preference ,  and  various  forms  of  enriched  wooden  roofs  were 
used  instead,  not  as  shifts  but  as  approved  substitutes.  And  the 
absence  of  the  vault  of  course  enabled  the  pillars  to  be  lighter  than 
when  they  had  to  bear  such  a  much  greater  weight.  All  these 
tendencies  reach  their  fullest  development  in  the  latest  form  of 
English  Gothic;  it  is  there  that  they  are  thoroughly  wrought  into 
an  artistic  shape  :  but  they  begin  from  the  beginning.  We  do  not 
see  in  England,  in  the  thirteenth  century  any  more  than  in  the 
fifteenth,  the  small  minster-like  ch\irches  which  we  see  in  France. 
New  Shoreham  is  perhaps  the  only  English  parish  church  of  this  date 
which  affects  the  type  of  the  minster,  and  that  might  be  a  minster 
in  scale  as  well  as  in  style.  These  two  points  of  difference,  the 
absence  of  the  apse  and  the  vault  are  enough  of  themselves  to 
distinguish  an  English  and  a  French  church,  and  it  is  perhaps 
worth  noting  that  in  Ireland  the  English  peculiarities  appear  in 
a  more  marked  shape  still.  In  short  the  dift'erences  between  insular 
and  continental  buildings  begin  in  the  Early  Gothic  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  and  they  go  on  widening  as  long  as  Gothic  archi- 
tecture lasts. 

Of  this  English  style  of  the  thirteenth  century  the  most  distinctive 
feature  of  all  is  the  Lancet  window,  from  which  it  has  been  well 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  ^^^ 

called  the  Lancet  style.  These  long  narrow  windows  are  used 
alone,  or  in  groups  of  twos,  threes,  and  greater  numbers.  Some- 
times two  or  three  are  grouped  under  an  arch.  There  we  get  the 
first  approach  to  window  tracery.  The  space  ahove  the  openings 
was  pierced  with  some  figure,  a  circle  or  quatrefoil  ;  this  is  already 
usual  in  openings  which  are  not  meant  to  be  glazed,  as  in  tri- 
foria  and  belfry- windows ;  but  it  does  not  as  yet  grow  inio 
actual  tracery.  The  triforium  is  now  commonly  lower  and  the  pier- 
arch  higher  than  it  was  in  the  Norman  style;  only  at  Ely,  the 
same  feeling  of  adaptation  to  older  work  which  gave  the  nave  its 
peculiar  character,  affected  also  the  work  of  this  date,  and  the 
triforium  is  unusually  large.  The  work  of  this  date  at  Ely,  in- 
cluding the  east  end,  is  the  very  finest  example  of  the  style  in 
point  of  detail.  All  the  characteristic  features  come  in,  and  with 
a  remarkable  degree  of  richness.  For,  while  this  style  can  be  very 
simple,  it  can  also  put  on  an  almost  lavish  amount  of  ornament. 
Sculpture  too,  in  the  stricter  sense,  the  carving  of  the  human  figure, 
takes  a  sudden  leap;  in  the  twelfth  century  attempts  of  this  kind 
were  still  very  rude ;  in  the  thirteenth  we  have  admirable  sculp- 
tures on  the  west  front  of  Wells,  not  the  less  admirable  as  sculp- 
tures because  the  front,  as  an  architectural  design,  is  sacrificed  to 
them.  On  the  whole,  at  no  period  of  mediaeval  architecture  was 
there  so  much  richness  and  freedom  of  detail  as  in  the  days  of  the 
earliest  fully  developed  English  Gothic. 

Of  this  style  we  have  many  examples  in  our  great  churches. 
The  nave  of  Lincoln ,  the  choir  of  Southwell .  the  whole  eastern 
part  of  Beverley,  much  of  Worcester,  the  eastern  transept  at  Dur- 
ham, the  transepts  of  York  (with  their  very  strange  wooden  vault- 
ing), and  specially  the  whole  church  of  Salisbury,  except  the 
tower  and  spire,  belong  to  this  style.  Salisbury  is  naturally  often 
quoted  as  the  model  of  the  style,  as  it  is  so  rare  to  find  a  great 
church  all  in  one  style  from  one  end  to  the  other.  But  it  is  surely 
far  surpassed  by  the  contemporary  parts  of  Lincoln  in  proportion 
and  by  that  of  Ely  in  detail.  A  crowd  of  smaller  churches  might 
be  quoted ;  two  remarkable  ones  arc  the  church  of  Warmington  in 
Northamptonshire  (with  a  wooden  vault  to  the  nave)  and  the  very 
small  church  of  Skelton  near  York. 

Two  features  which  may  be  traced  back  to  the  twelfth  century 
reached  their  full  development  in  the  thirteenth.  The  earliest 
and  the  latest  chapter -houses  are  rectangular.  That  at  Worcester 
ill  the  twelfth  century  was  round;  just  as  in  the  case  of  the  apse, 
the  round  form  naturally  became  polygonal,  and  from  the  thir- 
teenth century  onwards  we  get  a  remarkable  class  of  polygonal 
chapter- houses,  usually  with  a  single  central  pillar,  a  form  of 
singular  beauty.  The  earliest  is  that  at  Lincoln,  which  belongs  to 
our  present  period ;  the  rest  belong  to  a  time  a  little  later.  The 
other  feature  was  the  tendency  to  finish  the  west  end  of  a  great 


xlvi  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

church  with  something  other  than  either  the  mere  ends  of  the 
nave  and  aisles  (as  at  Norwich)  or  the  aisles  ending  in  towers,  as 
in  most  large  Romanesque  churches.  Sometimes,  as  at  Ely  and 
Peterborough,  this  took  the  shape  of  an  actual  western  transept. 
In  the  maguiflcent  Transitional  part  of  Ely,  a  single  vast  western 
tower  rises  in  the  middle  of  the  transept,  a  fashion  which,  on  a 
smaller  scale  and  in  a  ruder  form,  is  the  rule  in  Auvergne.  At 
Peterborough  the  transept  was  combined  with  two  small  western 
towers,  only  one  of  which  was  ever  finished.  But  here  a  second 
addition  was  made  in  the  shape  of  a  magnificent  portico  of  three 
lofty  arches,  in  the  best  work  of  this  style,  perhaps  the  grandest 
conception  for  a  single  feature  which  mediaeval  architecture  has 
produced.  It  is  in  fact  the  Greek  portico  translated  into  Gothic 
language.  But  in  other  cases  all  that  is  done  is  to  disguise  the 
real  shape  of  the  front,  whether  with  or  without  towers,  by  a  mere 
wall,  a  sheer  piece  of  pretence.  So  it  was  in  Malmesbury  abbey 
even  in  the  twelfth  century ;  so  it  is  in  different  shapes,  at  Lin- 
coln (where  there  is  a  kind  of  western  transept),  at  Wells  (where 
the  western  towers  stand  beyond  the  aisles),  at  Salisbury  (where 
there  are  no  western  towers).  In  these,  and  in  some  other  cases, 
the  shape  of  the  front  is  not  the  real  constructive  shape.  This 
fashion  afterwards  went  out;  the  later  fronts  are  either  the  mere 
ends  of  the  nave  and  aisles,  or  else  there  are  western  towers,  some- 
times, as  at  Beverley,  with  an  unreal  wall  built  between  them, 
but  with  no  screen  in  front. 

Church  towers  now  begin  to  be  taller  than  they  were  in  the 
Norman  time;  that  is,  in  truth,  they  fell  back  on  the  older 
Primitive  type.  And  now  their  roofs  begin  to  shoot  up  into  tall 
spires,  first  of  wood,  then  of  stone.  But  these  are  in  their  first 
stage  to  be  mainly  studied  in  parish  churches,  specially  in  a  district 
which  takes  in  North  Northamptonshire,  the  southern  part  of  Lin- 
colnshire called  Holland,  and  parts  of  other  counties.  These  early 
spires  (known  as  broach  spires)  keep  their  character  as  roofs  by 
hanging  over  the  tower,  and  they  are  more  massive  than  spires 
become  afterwards.  But  there  are  very  few  of  this  kind  to  be  seen 
In  the  great  English  churches;  the  low  spire  of  Saint  Frideswide 
at  Oxford  (now  the  cathedral  church)  stands  almost  alone. 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  thirteenth  century  another  change 
comes  in.  Tracery  now  begins  to  be  used  in  the  windows,  as  had 
been  the  case  long  before  in  France.  Tracery  grew  very  naturally 
out  of  the  figures  pierced  in  the  head  of  a  window  of  two  or  more 
lights  under  an  arch.  Bring  the  circles,  or  other  figures,  close 
to  the  arches,  and  pierce  the  spandrils  or  spaces  between  them, 
and  we  at  once  have  the  simplest  form  of  tracery,  that  which  uses 
only  a  few  simple  geometrical  figures,  circles,  quatrefoils,  trefoils, 
sometimes  the  spherical  triangle,  and  even  the  spherical  square. 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND. 


xlvii 


whicli  last  is  very  common  is  Germany  and  very  rare  in  England. 
Windows  of  this  kind  may  Ite  formed  of  any  size ;  the  arches  sup- 
porting circles  may  be  repeated  over  and  over  again  on  different 
planes,  so  that  a  window  of  eight  lights  shall  be  made  up  of  two 
windows  of  four  lights,  and  those  again  each  of  two  windows  of 
two.  Such  is  the  great  east  window  of  Lincoln  minster,  the  finest 
example  of  this  stage  ;  the  whole  eastern  part  of  the  church,  called 
the  Angels'  choir  (1255-80)  is  of  this  date,  and  is  as  perfect 
in  its  way  as  the  Lancet  work  at  Ely  is  in  its  way.  The  nave  of 
Lichfield,  the  chapter-house  at  Salisbury,  the  staircase  to  the 
chapter-house  at  Wells,  the  north  transept  at  Hereford,  the  church 
of  Winchelsea,  the  ruined  abbeys  of  Tintern  and  Netley,  are  other 
examples  of  this  style.  The  earlier  among  these  have  fallen  away 
but  very  little  from  the  perfect  beauty  of  detail  which  belonged 
to  the  style  in  use  just  before;  but  even  in  the  Angels'  choir  the 
mouldings  are  not  so  deep  nor  the  foliage  so  bold  as  in  the  eastern 
parts  of  Ely.  By  those  who  have  divided  the  medieval  styles  ac- 
cording to  their  windows,  this  style  is  called  the  Oeometrical. 

The  next  form  in  idea  is  where  the  lines  of  tracery  cease  to  be 
Geometrical  and  become  Flowing;  that  is,  the  figures  no  longer 
merely  rest  on  the  arcbes,  but  the  mullions  themselves  are  actually 
continued  in  the  lines  of  tracery,  but  always  in  various  forms  of 
curves.  But  the  change  from  the  Geometrical  forms  to  these  was 
very  gradual.  There  is  a  style  of  window,  of  which  those  in  the 
choir  of  Merton  College  chapel  at  Oxford  are  among  the  very  best, 
in  which  the  tracery  is  Geometrical  and  not  Flowing,  but  which 
still  differs  a  good  deal  from  the  simple  Geometrical  of  Lincoln. 
The  design  of  the  tracery  is  far  more  elaborate  and  brings  in  a 
much  greater  choice  of  figures.  We  see  these  forms  again  in  the 
nave  (1291-1329)  and  chapter-house  at  York  —  a  chapter-house 
without  a  central  pillar  —  while  the  great  west  window,  the  pride 
of  the  nave  (1338)  has  fully  developed  Flowing  tracery.  Of  this 
last  the  two  grandest  examples  are  those  at  the  east  ends  of  Carlisle 
cathedral  and  Selby  abbey,  the  latter  of  which  has  a  Geometrical 
window  alongside  of  it.  Heckington  church,  Lincolnshire,  and 
Snettisham,  Norfolk,  are  fine  examples  on  a  smaller  scale;  but  the 
building  of  all  others  in  which  to  study  the  developement  of  tracery 
is  Exeter  cathedral  (1280-1370).  Here  it  starts  from  the  simple 
Geometrical  in  the  eastern  Lady  chapel,  and  advances  westward. 

The  truth  is  that  there  is  in  idea  a  very  wide  gap  between  the 
styles  which  are  marked  by  the  use  of  Geometrical  and  Flowing 
tracery,  but  that  it  is  by  no  means  easy  always  to  divide  them  in 
practice.  All  the  forms  of  window-tracery,  English,  French,  and 
German,  fall  into  two  great  classes,  admitting  of  further  divisions 
according  to  periods  and  'Countries.  There  is,  first,  the  Geometrical, 
the  forms  of  which  in  the  different  countries  dift'er  less  from  ea<-h 
other  than  the  later  forms  do.  There  are,  secondly,  all  those  forms 


xlviii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

in  which  the  mullions  are  continued  in  the  tracery,  whether  in 
straight  or  in  curved  lines,  which  have  hen  grouped  together  under 
the  common  head  of  Continuous.  This  will  take  in  hoth  the 
Flowing  and  Perpendicular  forms  in  England,  as  also  the  Flamboyant 
of  France,  and  the  contemporary  late  Gothic  of  Germany,  forms 
which  differ  far  more  widely  from  one  another  than  the  various 
forms  of  Geometrical ,  but  which  agree  in  carrying  on  the  mullion 
into  the  tracery.  And  in  England  the  Perpendicular  line  came  in 
so  very  early  that  its  first  examples  are  actually  contemporary,  not 
only  with  Flowing  but  with  Geometrical  forms.  In  all  times  of 
transition  earlier  and  later  forms  cannot  fail  to  be  used  side  by 
side,  and  the  details  which  accompany  the  purely  Geometrical  and 
the  purely  Flowing  tracery  differ  less  from  each  other  than  each 
does  from  the  details  used  immediately  before  and  after  it.  Hence 
the  Geometrical  and  the  Flowing  forms  have  often  been,  with  some 
degree  of  practical  convenience,  grouped  together  under  the  some- 
what unmeaning  name  of  Decorated  But  during  the  whole  period 
from  the  time  when  the  simple  Lancet  windows  went  out  of  use 
till  confirmed  Perpendicular  became  dominant,  detail  was  ever  chan- 
ging in  the  direction  of  the  later  type  of  Gothic.  The  sections  of 
mouldings  and  of  clustered  pillars  became  less  and  less  bold;  so 
does  foliage,  though  it  now  more  commonly,  as  conspicuously  in 
the  chapter-house  at  Southwell,  directly  copies  natural  forms. 
Ornamental  arcades  with  distinct  sliafts  gradually  sink  into  mere 
panelling;  the  triforium  gets  smaller  and  smaller;  there  is  a  con- 
stantly increasing  tendency  to  carry  lines  straight  upwards.  The 
naves  of  York  and  Exeter  have  much  in  common;  but  Exeter,  both 
in  proportion  and  detail ,  keeps  on  a  good  deal  of  earlier  feeling, 
while  York  is  an  advance  in  the  direction  of  what  was  coming. 
Exeter  is  very  English;  York  has  more  in  common  with  some  of -the 
great  French  churches.  But  the  most  remarkable  example  of  all  is 
the  work  of  this  date  at  Ely.  The  proportions  impressed  on  the 
building  by  the  Norman  architects,  as  they  influenced  the  work  of 
the  thirteenth  century,  influenced  that  of  the  fourteenth  also.  There 
is  a  triforium  on  a  scale  such  as  no  architect  of  the  time  would  have 
designed  if  he  had  been  left  to  himself ;  but  the  details  are  very 
far  advanced ,  and  have  altogether  lost  the  boldness  of  the  earlier 
work  to  which  the  fourteenth  century  reconstruction  is  adapted.  At 
Beverley  again  the  nave  of  the  fourteenth  century  is  in  many  things 
adapted  to  the  choir  of  the  thirteenth. 

In  the  matter  of  towers,  some  of  the  very  grandest  in  England 
belong  to  this  time.  Several  of  the  great  central  towers  were  now 
carried  up,  as  at  Salisbury,  Hereford,  Wells,  and  above  all  Lincoln, 
where  the  western  towers  were  carried  up  at  the  same  time.  Of 
these  Salisbury  alone  had  a  stone  spire;  but  that  at  Hereford,  and 
all  three  at  Lincoln,  once  had  spires  of  wood  covered  with  lead. 
Lichfield  alone  among  English  churches,  had  three  stone  spires^ 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND. 


xUk 


At  Ely  something  different  from  a  tower  and  quite  unique  in  Eng- 
land arose.  The  central  tower,  which  liad  hitherto  stood  in  fellow- 
ship with  the  single  western  tower,  fell,  and  was  replaced  by  a 
vast  octagonal  lantern,  not  exactly  a  tower,  not  exactly  a  cupola, 
but  coming  nearer  to  a  domical  effect  than  anything  else  in  the 
(rothic  architecture  of  England. 

The  origin  of  the  Perpendicular  style,  a  style  peculiar  to  Eng- 
land, is  to  be  found  in  the  abbey  of  Gloucester.  This  was  made 
out  beyond  doubt  by  Professor  Willis  in  his  examination  of  that 
church  in  the  year  1860.  The  distinguishing  feature  of  the  style  in 
the  matter  of  windows  is  that  the  mullions  are  continued  in  the 
tracery,  in  the  shape,  not  of  curved  but  of  right  lines.  Such  rislit 
lines  are  now  and  then  found  in  earlier  tracery:  but  only  in- 
cidentally :  they  now  become  dominant ,  and  give  the  character  to 
the  style.  But  the  straight  line  came  in  first,  not  in  windows,  but 
in  panelling ;  it  arose  out  of  a  special  need  in  the  works  carried 
on  at  Gloucester  by  Abbot  Wigmorc  (1329-37);  it  is  there  fully 
developed  in  the  panelling,  not  quite  so  much  so  in  the  window- 
tracery.  When  this  date ,  which  is  perfectly  certain  from  docu- 
ments, was  first  ascertained  by  Professor  Willis,  it  showed  that  the 
Perpendicular  style  was  used  many  years  before  the  date  commonly 
given  to  its  beginning;  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  re- 
mained for  a  long  time  a  local  style  at  Gloucester,  used  there  both 
in  the  abbey  and  in  other  buildings,  but  making  no  way  elsewhere. 
Its  general  prevalence  began  when  it  was  taken  up  at  Winchester, 
first  by  Bishop  William  of  Edington  (before  1366)  and  then  by  his 
successor  William  of  Wykeham  (1394-1404).  In  Edington's  work 
the  style  still  keeps  some  slight  trace  of  the  earlier  style ;  that  of 
Wykeham  is  fully  developed,  and  clearly  set  the  fashion  throughout 
the  country.  Other  work  of  his  is  to  be  seen  in  his  two  colleges  at 
Winchester  and  Oxford,  where  his  chapel  and  hall  at  New  College 
became  models  for  others.  In  tracing  out  the  growth  of  this  style 
we  can  again,  just  as  we  could  in  the  Norman  time,  mark  the  per- 
sonal action  of  particular  men,  which  we  have  been  less  able  to 
do  in  the  intermediate  styles. 

The  English  Perpendicular  style ,  like  the  French  Flamboyant 
which  grew  up  about  the  same  time,  was  the  latest  form  of  Gothic 
in  England,  that  which  gradually  gave  way  to  the  introduction  of 
Italian  forms  in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  earlier  and  the  later 
examples  differ  a  good  deal,  but  the  main  principles  of  the  style 
remain  the  same  throughout,  and  the  difference  between  early 
and  late  Perpendicular  is  certainly  not  greater  than  the  difference 
between  the  plain  Norman  of  the  days  of  the  Conquest  and  the 
enriched  Norman  of  Henry  the  Second's  reign.  The  leading  prin- 
ciple of  the  style  is  the  prominence  given  to  the  vertical  line  in  every 
thing,  a  prominence  which  is  often  made  yet  more  thorough  by  the 
presence  of  strongly  marked  horizontal  lines.     This  comes  out  in 

Baedkkeu's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit,  Q 


^  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

panelling  and  -window-tracery ;  the  -windows  reach  a  vast  size,  as 
the  great  windows  at  Winchester,  Bath,  Beverley,  York,  and  above 
all  Gloucester.  There  is  not  so  much  scope  for  transitional  forms 
between  the  Flowing  and  the  Perpendicular  lines  as  there  was  be- 
tween the  Geometrical  and  the  Flowing;  still  examples  are  not 
wanting;  windows  in  which  curved  and  straight  lines  are  inter- 
mingled are  seen,  as  has  been  said,  in  the  earliest  Perpendicular 
at  Gloucester  and  also  at  York.  Indeed  the  growth  of  the  Continuous 
style  can  nowhere  be  better  studied  than  in  the  successive  works 
at' York:  the  nave  (1291-1329),  the  presbytery  (1.361-70),  and  the 
choir  (1380-1400). 

In  the  style  which  now  came  in,  mouldings  lose  still  more  of 
their  depth;  capitals  are  less  commonly  floriated,  and  with  less  of 
depth  when  they  are;  ornamental  arcades  altogether  give  way  to 
panellings.  On  the  other  hand,  the  richer  buildings  become  more 
loaded  with  ornament  of  various  kinds  than  ever.  But  it  is  rather 
ornament  added  to  the  constructive  features  than  the  constructive 
features  themselves  brought  into  ornamental  shapes.  It  is  other- 
wise however  with  one  very  important  feature  which  now  for  the 
first  time  puts  on  its  full  importance.  This  is  that  specially  English 
feature,  the  wooden  roof.  This  is  no  longer  a  mere  substitute  for  a 
vault,  but  a  form  of  equal  dignity  which  is  often  chosen  by  pre- 
ference. It  puts  on  various  shapes.  There  are  the  grand  hammer- 
beam  roofs  of  East- Anglia,  which  after  all  seem  better  suited  to  halls 
than  churches;  there  are  the  roofs  which  in  a  large  district  on  the 
borders  of  Wales  are  used  in  churches,  but  which  in  the  West  of 
England  are  used  only  in  halls,  a  variety  which  uses  a  vast  deal  of 
wood  with  trefoils  and  other  figures  cut  in  the  solid.  Then  there 
are  the  characteristic  coved  or  cradle  roofs  of  the  West  of  England, 
which  modern  architects  are  commonly  bent  on  destroying.  And 
lastly  there  is  the  low-pitched  tie-beam  roof,  whichis  common  every- 
where, except  perhaps  in  East-Anglia.  This  last  form  is  connected 
with  one  of  the  features  of  the  style  which  has  been  already  men- 
tioned, the  prominence  given  to  the  horizontal  line  in  contrast  with 
the  vertical.  This  tendency,  it  should  be  remembered,  came  in 
before  Perpendicular  tracery  was  at  all  dominant  in  the  windows  ;  it 
begins  while  the  Flowing  forms  of  tracery  are  still  in  use,  sometimes 
even  earlier.  The  roofs  and  gables  became  low-pitched,  as  in  one  of 
the  classes  of  wooden  roofs  already  spoken  of ;  the  low  gable  may  be 
seen  over  the  grand  Flowing  west  window  of  York  minster.  Out- 
side, instead  of  the  high  roof,  the  parapet,  pierced  or  embattled, 
becomes  a  main  feature.  So  with  the  towers  ;  magnificent  spires 
were  still  built,  sometimes  in  Northamptonshire  keeping  to  the  so- 
called  broach  form,  but  more  usiially  with  parapets,  pinnacles,  and 
flying-buttresses.  But,  as  the  spire  is  one  form  of  the  high  roof, 
the  tendency  of  the  style  is  to  leave  out  the  spire,  and  to  finish 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  li 

the  tower  itself  with  a  parapet  and  pinnacles.  Most  commonly  the 
square  tower  itself  is  all ;  hut  sometimes  the  square  is  finished  with 
an  octagonal ;  sometimes  the  octagon  again  supports  a  spire.  In 
churches  again  the  arches  of  doors  and  windows  had  commonly 
been  pointed.  But  all  through  the  fourteenth  century,  even  while 
Geometrical  tracery  is  still  in  use,  other  alternative  forms  come  in, 
and  become  more  usual  as  Perpendicular  advances.  A  square- 
headed  window  is  often  convenient  in  churches,  and  constantly  so 
in  houses.  The  form  was  therefore  used  very  early,  whenever  it 
was  wanted,  as  also  was  the  segmental  arch,  most  commonly  roumL 
The  square-headed  form  becomes  more  usual  in  the  Perpendicular 
style,  but  the  segmental  gives  way  to  the  four -centred  arch  (ans- 
wering to  the  elliptic,  three-centred,  or  flat-topped  arch  in  France 
and  Sicily),  which  is  used  all  through  the  style,  but  becomes  more 
common  towards  the  end. 

In  all  these  ways  the  horizontal  line  comes  in  after  a  fashion 
in  which  it  does  not  in  the  earlier  Gothic  styles.  But  the  ver- 
tical line  is  still  dominant,  all  the  more  dominant.  The  great 
work  of  the  Perpendicular  style,  as  applied  to  ecclesiastical  pur- 
poses, was  to  bring  out  the  distinctive  type  of  the  great  English 
parish  church  as  distinguished  from  the  minster.  In  the  interior  of 
such  a  church,  if  the  wooden  roof  is  of  lower  pitch  than  of  old,  it 
is  a  substitute  for  the  vault  and  not  a  make-shift,  and  it  far  more 
commonly  rests  on  shafts  rising  from  the  ground.  Nothing  can  be 
more  truly  vertical  than  some  of  the  West  of  England  churches 
that  follow  this  type.  Even  when  the  shafts  do  not  rise  from  the 
ground,  the  tall  slender  pillars,  commonly  with  narrow  arches,  have 
an  upward  tendency  wbich  the  flatter  lines  of  the  roof  help  to  bring 
out  more  strongly.  The  great  Perpendicular  parish  church  has 
commonly  a  western  tower;  the  central  tower  is  rather  avoided, 
and  it  sometimes  gives  way  to  a  western  one ;  the  distinction  be- 
tween nave  and  chancel  becomes  less  strong ,  and  is  sometimes 
made  wholly  by  woodwork;  aisles  to  the  chancel  are  more  common 
than  before  ,  and  chapels  are  often  added  beyond  the  aisles.  The 
apse  is  still  very  rare,  but  it  is  found  at  Saint  Michael's  at  Coven- 
try, and,  as  an  addition,  at  Mold  and  Wrexham  in  North  Wales. 
Vaulting  is  common  over  small  parts  of  the  building,  as  porches 
and  chapels,  but  it  is  all  but  unknown  over  a  main  body.  Ex- 
amples are  found  everywhere;  but  there  are  two  districts,  Somer- 
set and  East- Anglia,  where  fine  examples  of  two  distinct  types 
are  specially  thick  on  the  ground.  The  differences  in  the  two 
types  of  roof  have  been  already  mentioned.  The  towers  also  are 
widely  different,  though  singularly  stately  in  both;  in  the  East- 
Anglian  churches  both  the  towers  and  other  parts  are  greatly 
affected  by  their  material,  which  is  chiefly  flint;  cut  flint  arranged 
so  as  to  make  forms  of  panelling  is  a  very  distinctive  feature.  They 
are  also  distinguished  for  the  vast  number  of  small  windows  in  the 

d* 


in  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

clerestory,  two  in  each  "bay,  wliile  in  Somerset  the  large  churches 
commonly  have  one  large  window  in  each  bay,  while  in  the  smaller 
ones  with  coved  roofs  the  clerestory  is  often  left  out.  In  York- 
shire there  is  a  third  type  of  tower,  which  evidently  follows  the 
western  towers  of  the  minster,  having  a  single  large  belfry-win- 
dow, where  in  Somerset  there  would  be  two  or  more.  In  Northamp- 
tonshire, rich  in  spires  and  octagons,  there  is  perhaps  only  one 
square  tower  of  great  merit,  at  Titchmarsh.  Gloucestershire  and 
AV orcestershire  have  another  type  of  tower,  continued  from  the  be- 
ginnings of  the  Perpendicular  style  in  Gloucester  abbey;  tlie 
panelling  looks  as  if  it  were  nailed  on,  which  it  never  does  either 
in  Somerset  or  in  East-Anglia.  Of  large  parish  churches  in  this  style 
(out  of  the  special  districts)  the  two  University  churches  of  Ox- 
ford and  Cambridge  may  supply  good  examples  :  also  the  collegiate 
(now  cathedral)  church  of  Manchester ,  which  is  purely  parochial 
in  its  architecture ;  Fairford  in  Gloucestershire ,  which  has  a  cen- 
tral tower  without  transepts  and  which  comes  within  the  sixteenth 
century:  and,  among  very  small  churches,  Whiston  in  Northamp- 
tonshire (near  Castle  Ashby,  p.  256),  from  its  extraordinary  grace 
and  its  extremely  late  date,  1534.  But  a  full  list  would  be  endless; 
all  that  can  be  done  is  to  pick  out  a  few  examples  here  and  there. 
In  minsters  the  style  is  on  the  whole  less  happy  than  in  parish 
churches.  The  stateliest  example  is  doubtless  to  be  found  in  the  Per- 
pendicular parts  of  York;  but  here,  though  the  feeling,  as  in  the 
earlier  nave,  is  thoroughly  Continuous,  it  is  hardly  thoroughly  Per- 
pendicular. The  shafts  of  the  clustered  pillars  have  a  prominence 
unusual  in  the  style,  and  which  gives  the  building  an  effect  of  its 
own.  And  another  building  which  belongs  to  this  period  by  date  can 
still  less  be  said  to  belong  to  it  by  style.  The  nave  of  Westminster 
abbey  was  built  in  the  fifteenth  century ,  and  a  near  examination 
will  show  that  the  details  are  of  that  date ;  but  the  proportions 
and  general  effect  are  utterly  unlike  anything  in  the  Perpendicular 
style ;  everything  is  closely  adapted  to  the  adjoining  work  of  the 
thirteenth  century.  And,  just  as  in  the  case  of  the  nave  of  Ely, 
where,  in  the  west  front,  the  architect  got  free  of  his  model,  he 
built  in  the  usual  fashion  of  his  own  time.  The  series  of  genuine 
Perpendicular  buildings  begins ,  as  we  have  seen,  at  Gloucester 
and  goes  on  at  Winchester.  The  work  of  Wykeham  at  Winchester 
keeps  all  the  massiveness  and  solemnity  of  earlier  style ,  because 
it  is  in  truth  not  a  rebuilding  from  the  ground ,  but  the  Norman 
nave  cased  in  the  new  style.  This  should  be  compared  with  the 
eastern  parts  of  Gloucester,  where  the  Norman  work  is  not  cased 
but  merely  overlaid  in  the  peculiar  local  style,  and  with  the  nave 
at  Canterbury  which  was  rebuilt  from  the  ground.  Here  we  cannot 
but  feel  that  there  is  the  same  fault  as  in  the  Romanesque  naves 
of  Gloucester  and  Tewkesbury ;  the  pier-arches  are  too  high  and 
the  clerestory  too  low;   the  triforium  has  of  course  vanished.     The 


OF  ARCHITECTUKE  IN  ENGLAND.  liii 

style  perhaps  comes  out  better  in  a  type  of  building  whirli  has  a 
very  lofty  clerestory.  We  see  this  in  Sherborne  minster  an<l  in 
parts  of  Christchurch  in  Hampshire.  Saint  Mary  Redcliff  at  Bris- 
tol also  comes  here,  a  parish  church,  but  —  like  Shoreham  in 
earlier  times  —  ranking  architecturally  as  a  minster,  and  the  only 
English  parish  church  which  is  vaulted  throughout.  It  is  well  to 
compare  it  with  great  churches  of  the  purely  parochial  type,  as 
Boston,  Newark,  Saint  Michael  at  Coventry,  and  Trinity  church  at 
Hull,  one  of  the  greatest  parish  churclies  in  England,  supplying  a 
noble  study  of  tracery,  and  so  far  minster-like  as  to  have  a  cen- 
tral tower,  but  having  all  the  lightness  —  an  enemy  might  say 
flimsiness  —  of  the  parochial  type,  with  the  slender  pillars  and 
wooden  roof.  Saint  Mary  RedcUff  was  designed  for  a  central  tower 
which  would  have  been  of  an  oblong  shape,  the  transepts  being 
narrower  than  the  nave  and  choir,  as  at  Limoges  and  some  other 
French  churches.  This  form  was  actually  carried  out  in  Bath 
abbey  (1500-1539),  the  only  cathedral  church  altogether  in  the  Per- 
pendicular style,  which  it  shows  in  a  late  and  for  the  most  part  a 
poor  form.  The  mouldings  are  coarse,  and  the  four-centred  arch, 
often  very  useful  in  doorways,  windows,  and  even  small  chapels, 
has  thrust  itself  into  the  main  pier-arches,  where  it  is  quite  out  of 
place.  The  tower  is  ungraceful,  and  it  was  great  perversity  to  make 
the  belfry -windows  and  the  great  east  window  square-headed. 

The  one  good  feature  at  Bath  is  the  fan-tracery  vault  of  the 
choir,  imitated  in  modern  times  over  the  nave.  This  form  of  roof 
is  the  great  contribution  of  the  Perpendicular  style  to  the  art  of 
vaulting.  It  begins  early  in  the  style  ,  as  in  the  cloister  at  Glou- 
cester (1351-77),  one  of  the  most  perfect  examples ;  but  it  did  not 
come  into  use  over  large  spaces  till  much  later.  The  earlier  Per- 
pendicular vaults  forsake  the  simpler  arrangements  of  earlier  times 
and  do  not  bring  in  the  compact  magnificence  of  the  fan-roof.  In 
the  wooden  roofs  at  York  and  in  many  stone  roofs,  the  ribs  seem  to 
run  over  the  vault  without  much  meaning.  The  flat  pier-arches  at 
Bath  point  to  another  tendency  of  the  latest  form  of  the  style, 
where  there  almost  seems  a  wish  to  get  rid  of  piers  and  arches.  In 
the  two  most  elaborate  examples  of  late  Perpemlicular ,  Saint 
George's  chapel  at  Windsor  and  Henry  the  Sevenths  chapel  at 
Westminster,  the  arcades  are  of  very  little  importance.  The  West- 
minster chapel  is  a  wonderful  work,  but  it  must  be  allowed  to  be 
overcharged  with  ornament;  minute  enrichment  has  taken  the 
place  of  boldness  of  design.  The  really  grandest  building  in  late 
Perpendicular  is  the  chapel  of  King's  College,  Cambridge.  Here 
the  windows  and  the  fan-tracery  roof  are  of  the  very  best  kind, 
and  the  ornament  throughout,  though  rich,  is  not  overdone.  And 
the  design  is  as  bold  and  simple  as  a  Greek  temple.  In  the  choir 
of  a  college  chapel  pier-arches  are  not  needed;  the  type  of  chapel 
brought  in  by  William  of  Wykcham  has  a  short  nave  of  two  bays 


liv  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

with  of  course  two  arches  and  one  pillar  on  each  side.  King's 
chapel  consists  of  twelve  hays,  with  no  architectural  distinction 
hetween  nave  and  choir.  There  are  no  aisles,  therefore  no  pier- 
arches;  hut  there  are  chapels  hetween  the  huttresses,  as  in  many 
French  churches. 

These  three  famous  chapels,  at  Westminster,  Windsor,  and 
Camhridge,  have  no  towers.  King's  could  not  have  any  hut  a 
detached  campanile,  like  Magdalen  at  Oxford.  Otherwise,  the  Per- 
pendicular style  which,  in  the  parish  church,  tends  to  sacrifice 
the  central  to  the  western  tower,  tends  in  the  minster  to  make 
the  central  tower  more  predominant  than  ever.  At  Winchester, 
Gloucester,  and  Saint  Alhans,  western  towers  were  pulled  down, 
clearly  to  give  greater  predominance  to  the  central  one;  and  this 
at  Winchester  and  Saint  Alhans,  without  ever  actually  rehuilding 
(whatever  may  have  heen  designed) ,  the  old  central  towers  in  the 
new  style.  At  Gloucester  the  central  tower  was  rehuilt  in  the 
stateliest  guise  of  the  local  style ,  and  it  set  the  fashion  to  Wor- 
cester, Malvern,  and  some  smaller  examples.  On  the  other  hand, 
at  York  the  western  towers  were  finished  in  the  new  style,  while 
the  central  tower  kept  its  Norman  massiveness  even  with  Per- 
pendicular details.  It  was  seemingly  designed  to  carry  some 
farther  finish,  perhaps  an  imperial  crown,  like  those  at  Newcastle- 
on-Tyne,  Edinhurgh,  and  Aherdeen.  The  York  tower  may  he  said 
to  he  in  some  sort  repeated  at  Beverley,  where  the  mid-tower  was 
never  carried  up.  The  great  towers  of  Durham  and  its  dependency 
Howden  were  carried  up  with  the  finish  of  a  smaller  square  stage, 
answering  to  the  octagon  in  some  other  cases,  which  was  itself  to 
receive  a  crown.  At  Durham,  as  at  York,  the  western  towers  were 
spared,  and  carried  up  in  the  new  style.  In  some  cases,  hoth  of 
larger  and  smaller  churches,  a  western  tower  was  added  to  a  huilding 
which  already  had  a  central  tower.  So  it  was  at  Hereford  cathedral. 
Malmeshury  ahhey,  Wimhorne  minster  (where  the  tower  of  this 
date  is  said  to  have  succeeded  an  earlier  one),  Christchurch,  Hamp- 
shire, and  the  parish  churches  of  Purton  in  Wiltshire  and  Saint 
Cuthljerht  at  Wells.  These  in  fact,  except  in  the  ahsence  of  the 
western  transept,  repeat  the  outline  of  Ely  as  it  stood  hefore  the 
suhstitution  of  the  octagon  for  the  square  central  tower.  The 
strauRc  thing  is  that  this  grouping  of  a  central  and  a  western  tower, 
common  in  France,  was  in  England  not  only  rare  hut  hardly  ever 
destined  to  last  when  it  was  used.  In  most  cases  either  the  Avestern 
or  the  central  tower  has  fallen,  and  it  is  only  at  Wimhorne  and 
Purton  that  this  grouping  can  now  he  studied. 

Meanwhile  domestic  architecture  was  fast  advancing.  In  Eng- 
land, it  should  he  noticed,  nearly  all  mediaeval  architecture  that 
is  not  strictly  ecclesiastical  or  military  is  domestic.  The  liistory  of 
England  gave  no  room  for  such  developments  of  municipal  inde- 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  Iv 

pcndence ,  and  thereby  of  municipal  architecture,  as  were  to  be 
seen  in  Italy,  Germany,  and  the  Netherlands.  There  are  some  fine 
guild-halls  in  England,  as  those  of  London,  York,  Exeter,  and 
Coventry;  but  the  hall  itself  does  not  differ  essentially  from  the 
hall  of  a  palace  or  great  monastery,  and  the  whole  municipal  build- 
ing nowhere  becomes,  as  often  on  the  continent,  a  rival  to  the 
minster  and  the  castle.  Another  thing  to  be  noticed  in  England 
is  that  country-houses,  great  and  small,  manor-houses,  parsonages, 
houses  in  villages  and  open  towns ,  put  on  an  artistic  character 
much  sooner  than  they  did  in  lands  where  safety  could  be  had  only 
cither  in  a  castle  or  in  a  walled  town.  The  French  chateau  com- 
monly belongs  to  the  last  days  of  Gothic  architecture,  and  com- 
monly supplants  an  actual  castle.  In  England  the  simple  manor- 
house,  quite  distinct  from  the  castle,  existed  at  least  from  the 
thirteenth  century ,  and  grew  with  every  developement  of  art  up 
to  the  sixteenth.  The  mere  architectural  style  is  of  course  the 
same  in  a  house  and  in  a  church  of  the  same  date ;  but  some 
features  are  more  convenient  in  domestic  buildings ;  thus  in  houses 
the  square -headed  window  is  more  convenient  than  the  pointed, 
except  in  rooms  of  special  dignity,  as  the  hall  and  chapel.  Again 
the  projecting  oriel  or  bay-window  is  a  specially  domestic  feature, 
for  which  there  is  no  place  in  a  church.  The  hall  is  the  main 
feature  of  a  medieval  house,  great  or  small;  at  first  it  was  almost 
the  whole  house;  gradually  the  number  of  rooms  increased;  the 
solar  opening  into  the  hall  grew  into  the  (with)  drawing-room; 
towards  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century  the  dining-room,  as  distinct 
from  the  hall,  began  to  creep  in.  The  hall  is  commonly  of  the  full 
height  and  width  of  the  house,  with  an  open  roof;  as  the  art  of 
making  such  roofs  grew,  the  old  fashion  of  building  halls  with 
pillars  and  arches  died  out.  Thus  Richard  the  Second,  in  rebuild- 
ing'Westminster  hall,  the  grandest  of  the  class,  took  away  the 
arches  of  William  Rufus,  and  threw  the  whole  into  one  body,  under 
one  vast  timber  roof.  But  sometimes  in  halls,  and  more  commonly 
in  barns,  the  wooden  roof  is  a  construction  independent  of  the  walls, 
and  rests  on  wooden  pillars,  as  in  the  Bishop's  hall  at  Hereford. 
The  great  oriel  window  at  the  upper  end  of  the  hall  is  commonly 
a  marked  feature.  The  materials  of  houses  depended  more  on  the 
district  than  those  of  churches,  for,  though  there  were  wooden 
churches,  even  down  to  quite  late  times,  especially  in  Essex  and 
East-Anglia,  yet  stone  was  the  usual  material.  In  houses  stone 
Avas  constantly  used  in  stone  districts  like  Somerset  and  North- 
hamptonshire ,  while  in  the  western  midland  counties ,  timber  or 
timber  and  brick,  prevailed  even  in  houses  of  great  size  (as  Speke 
Hall  near  Liverpool),  and  in  the  eastern  counties  brick  came  into 
use  very  early.  Examples  of  houses  of  all  kinds  become  more 
common  as  we  go  on.  In  the  fourteenth  century  Clevedon  Court  in 
Somerset  is  one  of  the  finest;  in  the  fifteenth  examples  are  very 


Ivi  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

common,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  English  domestic 
architecture  reaches  its  perfection  in  buildings  like  Cowdray  in 
Sussex  —  unluckily  damaged  by  fire  —  and  Thornbury  castle  in  Glou- 
cestershire —  unluckily  never  finished.  Cowdray  is  perhaps  the 
grandest  actual  example  of  a  manor-house  on  a  vast  scale,  keeping 
nothing  of  the  character  of  a  castle  beyond  the  gate-house.  Thorn- 
bury  is  a  mere  fragment;  but  the  oriels,  round,  and  not,  as  usual, 
polygonal,  are  of  the  most  magnificent  kind.  Both  these  buildings, 
of  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth ,  belong  to  the  very  last  days  of 
Gothic  architecture,  just  before  Italian  influences  came  in.  The 
■work  of  Wolsey  at  Hampton  Court  is  of  the  same  kind.  Of  the 
same  date  too  are  many  of  the  college  buildings  at  Oxford  and 
Cambridge;  the  colleges  indeed  were  originally  built  after  the  type 
of  large  houses;  there  is  hardly  any  difference  in  ground-plan 
between  Haddon  Hall  in  Derbyshire  and  Queens'  College,  Cam- 
bridge, buildings  of  the  fifteenth  century.  Some  of  the  gateways 
of  the  Cambridge  colleges  are  specially  fine;  and  one  of  the  grand- 
est pieces  of  Perpendicular  architecture  is  the  Divinity  school  at 
Oxford,  with  its  vast  windows  and  rich  vaulted  roof.  It  is  a  build- 
ing by  itself,  having  a  design  and  proportion  of  its  own,  quite 
unlike  that  of  either  a  church  or  a  hall. 

Barns  too,  as  has  been  casually  implied,  were  at  this  time  works 
of  architecture;  they  were  plain  but  not  rude,  exactly  suiting  their 
purpose.  The  windows  are  commonly  mere  slits,  but  the  gables 
and  doorways  are  artistically  treated,  and  the  roofs  are  often 
wonders  of  carpentry.  Very  fine  ones  may  be  seen  at  Glastonbury, 
"Wells,  Bradford-on-Avon,  Frocester  in  Gloucestershire,  and  else- 
where. 

In  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  Gothic  architecture  be- 
gan in  England,  as  it  had  already  begun  in  France,  to  give  way  to 
the  Revived  Italian.  The  change  of  taste  began  in  the  accessory 
arts  before  it  touched  architecture  proper.  Thus,  at  Westminster  — 
to  say  nothing  of  the  tomb  of  Henry  the  Third  and  the  shrine  of 
Edward  the  Confessor,  Italian  work  of  the  thirteenth  century  — 
while  Henry  the  Seventh's  chapel  is  of  pure  Gothic,  though  of 
the  very  latest  type,  his  tomb  is  Italian.  So  a  new  taste  in  wood- 
work, cinque-cento  or  whatever  we  may  choose  to  call  it,  begins  in 
King's  College  chapel.  The  change  of  style  in  France  may  be 
studied  in  a  very  remarkable  class  of  churches  of  the  sixteenth 
and  the  first  half  of  the  seventeenth  century  of  which  Saint  Eustace 
at  Paris  is  the  head;  the  general  idea,  the  proportions  and  the 
main  lines  of  the  building  are  still  strictly  Gothic,  but  the  minuter 
details  are  Italian.  In  England,  where  at  this  time  more  churches 
were  pulled  down  than  built  up,  the  progress  of  this  age  of  tran- 
sition mainly  has  to  be  traced  in  houses.  The  general  conception 
remains  Gothic;  indeed  no  outline  can  be  more  picturesque  than 
that  of  an  Elizabethan  house ,  with  its  great  windows  and  endless 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND. 


Ivii 


gables.  But  the  Gothic  detail  loses  its  purity,  and  gets  mixed  up 
Avith  Italian  features.  The  Italian  details,  however,  are  used  after 
a  Gothic  fashion;  classical  or  guasi-classical  columns  come  in  again; 
but  they  are  used  just  as  the  mediaeval  builders  used  their  -win- 
dows and  blank  arcades,  many  ranges  are  placed  one  over  the  other. 
The  earliest  house  of  this  kind  was  most  likely  Longleat,  in  the 
reign  of  Edward  the  Sixth;  but  this,  the  work  of  an  Italian  archi- 
tect, though  still  cinque-cento  and  by  no  means  fully  developed 
Revived  Italian,  was  too  advanced  for  English  taste,  and  the 
struggle  of  styles  may  be  looked  on  as  going  on  quite  to  the  time  of 
the  Civil  Wars.  Indeed  in  the  first  half  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, there  is,  specially  in  Oxford,  what  has  been  called  After- 
Gotliic,  a  distinct  return  to  purer  designs.  Thus  the  chapel  of 
Wadham  college,  built  by  builders  from  Somerset,  is  known  to  be 
a  work  of  the  seventeenth  century,  otherwise  any  one  would 
have  assigned  it  to  the  fifteenth.  The  staircase  of  Christ  Church, 
with  its  single  central  pillar  and  fan-tracery,  a  most  bold  and  ori- 
ginal design,  is  later  still,  about  1640.  In  some  cases  the  tracery 
of  this  date  forsook  the  Perpendicular  line  and  fell  back  upon 
Flowing  forms. 

But  meanwhile  the  more  strictly  Italian  taste  was  coming  in. 
Inigo  Jones  added  a  classical  portico  to  Saint  Paul's,  and  Arch- 
bishop Laud  added  a  porch  with  twisted  columns  to  Saint  Marys 
at  Oxford.  After  the  Restoration  the  Italian  taste  decidedly  pre- 
vailed, and  any  traces  of  the  mediaeval  styles  are  now  mere 
survivals.  But  in  some  districts  and  under  some  circumstances  the 
survivals  lasted  a  long  while.  Small  houses  with  very  good  outlines 
and  with  mullioned  windows  were  built  into  the  eighteenth  cent- 
ury; in  Somerset  indeed,  perhaps  in  Northamptonshire,  the  two 
great  districts  of  domestic  architecture  in  stone,  the  survival  may 
be  said  to  have  met  the  modern  revival ;  the  mullioned  window 
never  quite  went  out  of  \ise,  though  it  often  put  on  very  poor  and 
meagre  forms.  But  from  the  tiuie  when  St.  Paul's  cathedral  was 
rebuilt  in  Italian  (1675-1710)  till  the  time  when  the  Houses  of 
Parliament  were  rebuilt  in  Perpendicular  (1840-50),  Italian  archi- 
tecture, varied  now  and  then  by  attempts  at  reproducing  strictly 
Greek  fashions,  must  be  looked  on  as  the  received  style  in  England. 

From  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  onwards,  the  rela- 
tions between  ecclesiastical  and  secular  architecture  become  the 
exact  opposite  to  what  they  had  been  in  earlier  times.  Churches 
were  now  comparatively  seldom  built,  while  secular  public  build- 
ings of  all  kinds  became  of  more  and  more  importance.  Here 
is  a  marked  contrast  between  England  and  Italy,  to  some  extent 
between  England  and  either  Germany  or  France.  In  all  those 
countries  there  was  a  greater  or  less  tendency  ,  far  more  pre- 
valent in  Italy  than  in  the  other  two  countries,  to  build  new 
churches  and  to  rebuild  or  recast  the  old  ones  in  the  style  which 


l^iii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH 

had  become  fashionable.  In  England  there  isfarlessof  this.  There 
is  nothing  in  England  answering  to  the  Jesuits'  churches  on  the 
continent,  to  great  abbeys  like  Fulda  and  Einsiedeln  wholly  rebuilt 
in  Italian,  or  to  churches  like  Wiirzburg  transformed  as  far  as 
might  be  into  Italian  from  Romanesque  or  Gothic.  The  French 
fashion  of  rebuilding  the  domestic  buildings  of  a  monastery  in 
Italian,  but  leaving  the  ancient  church,  has  its  parallel  in  the 
designs,  sometimes  not  getting  beyond  designs  but  sometimes 
more  or  less  fully  carried  out,  for  rebuilding  various  colleges  in 
Oxford  in  the  prevalent  fashion.  The  rebuilding  of  London  after 
the  fire  caused  the  building  of  a  good  many  churches  there  in  the 
new  style.  But  on  the  whole,  there  is,  compared  with  other 
countries,  but  little  in  England  of  ecclesiastical  work  of  this  kind. 
Saint  Paul's  stands  alone  as  an  Italian  church  of  the  first  class. 
And  it  should  be  noticed  that  Wren,  though  he  despised  Gothic 
architecture  and  knew  nothing  of  its  details,  was  quite  able,  when 
he  chose,  to  catch  a  Gothic  outline,  as  he  showed  at  Westminster  and 
at  Warwick.  For  at  least  a  hundred  years  mediaeval  architecture 
was,  as  the  name  Gothic  shows,  an  object  of  fashionable  and 
literary  contempt,  as  is  nowhere  better  shown  than  by  several 
passages  of  Addison  in  the  Spectator.  A  few  however,  antiquaries 
or  poets,  ventured  always  to  cherish  some  admiration  for  the 
older  fashion,  and  attention  was  again  drawn  to  it  as  part  of  the 
revival  of  the  romantic  taste  late  in  the  last  century.  We  do 
owe  something  to  Horace  Walpole  after  all.  The  call  for  a  number 
of  new  churches  in  the  first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century  largely 
helped  on  the  Gothic  revival.  There  was  a  very  general  belief 
that  Gothic  was  the  right  style  for  a  church,  but  not  for  any  other 
building.  This  would  have  seemed  a  strange  doctrine  to  the  archi- 
tects of  any  earlier  period,  pagan  or  Christian,  as  they  all  built 
their  religious  and  their  secular  buildings  in  the  same  style.  The 
earlier  attempts  at  the  revived  Gothic  were  naturally  very  bad  in 
point  of  detail,  and  still  worse  in  point  of  ecclesiastical  arrange- 
ment; but  in  point  of  mere  outline  we  now  and  then  meet  with 
buildings,  specially  spires  in  the  midland  counties,  which  have 
really  caught  more  of  the  spirit  of  earlier  design,  than  many  more 
recent  buildings  whose  detail  is  immeasureably  better. 

Along  with  the  practical  revival  of  medic-eval  architecture  came 
the  revival  of  its  study.  But  with  this  we  are  hardly  concerned, 
except  so  far  as  it  practically  influenced  buildings.  It  is  clear  that 
older  styles  could  not  be  revived  till  their  succession  and  the  nature 
of  their  characteristic  detail  had  been  made  out,  otherwise  details 
of  the  thirteenth  and  the  sixteenth  century  might  be  jumbled 
together.  The  first  at  all  successful  attempt  to  distinguish  the 
varieties  of  English  Gothic  was  made  by  George  Millers,  a  minor 
canon  of  Ely,  in  his  History  of  that  cathedral.  After  him  came 
Rickman,  whose  useful  labours  did  much  to  spread  knowledge  on 


OF  ARCHITECTURE  IN  ENGLAND.  li^ 

the  subject.  Since  the  middle  of  the  present  century  few  churches 
have  been  built  in  England  in  any  style  but  some  form  of  Gothic, 
though  there  has  been  endless  diversity  of  taste  and  opinion  as  to 
the  form  of  Gothic  to  be  chosen.  The  style  was  slower  in  making 
its  way  into  houses  and  other  secular  buildings.  The  building  of 
the  New  Houses  of  Parliament  in  the  latest  form  of  English  Gothic 
was  in  one  sense  the  greatest  victory  of  the  revival ;  in  another  way 
it  did  it  great  mischief.  For  faults  which  belonged  to  the  building 
itself,  and  which  would  have  been  just  as  keenly  felt  if  the  details 
had  been  Italian,  were  vulgarly  attributed  to  the  style  chosen. 
Since  then  we  have  had  an  Italian  Foreign  Office,  but  the  latest 
great  public  buildings  have  again  been  Gothic,  though  of  another 
form. 

The  history  of  the  Gothic  revival  can  be  nowhere  better  traced 
than  in  the  University  and  College  buildings  at  Oxford.  The  last 
Italian  building  (if  it  can  be  called  Italian)  was  the  Taylor  Build- 
ing in  1842.  Before  that  there  had  been  many  attempts  at  Gothic, 
the  most  successful  of  which  in  point  of  detail  was  the  Martyrs' 
Memorial  in  1839.  Between  1840  and  1850  it  seemed  established 
that  the  revival  was  to  start  from  the  last  days  of  English  Gothic. 
This  was  surely  a  reasonable  doctrine;  no  one  can  wish  architec- 
ture to  remain  imitative ;  but  a  revived  art  must  start  from  some 
point,  and  the  last  period  of  good  work  in  past  times  is  surely  the 
most  natural  point  to  start  from.  From  that  it  may  develope  afresh 
in  any  direction.  But  chiefly  owing  to  the  writings  of  Mr.  Ruskin, 
a  new  fashion  set  in.  Everything  was  to  be  Gothic;  only  it  must 
not  be  any  form  of  English  Gothic.  We  were  to  go  to  Venice  and 
Verona  for  details  which  suited  Venice  and  Verona,  but  which  did 
not  suit  England  ;  we  were  not  to  learn  anything  from  Cowdray, 
Thornbury,  or  Wells.  Lastly  there  has  come  a  stranger  fashion  still ; 
of  all  the  styles  in  the  world  the  one  last  picked  out  for  imitation 
has  been  the  corrupt  jumble  of  Gothic  and  Italian  detail  which 
prevailed  in  the  time  of  James  the  First.  This  style,  if  style  it 
can  be  called,  marks  a  very  interesting  stage  in  the  history  of  art; 
but  surely,  for  a  style  to  build  in,  any  pure  style  of  any  kind 
would  be  better.  It  is  like  the  macaronic  verses,  with  one  line 
in  one  language  and  the  next  in  another.  On  the  other  hand,  some 
colleges,  like  Magdalen  and  New  College,  have  withstood  all  these 
strange  fashions,  and  have  steadily  built  in  the  latest  form  of 
national  art. 

A  modern  architect  is  placed  in  a  position  in  which  no  architect 
of  any  other  age  ever  was  placed.  In  all  earlier  times,  Greek, 
Roman,  Saracen,  Mediaeval,  Revived  Italian,  there  has  been  some 
one  prevalent  style  in  which  men  built  as  a  matter  of  course.  Even 
in  periods  of  transition  the  only  choice  lay  between  the  style  thai 
was  going  out  and  the  style  that  was  coming  in,  and  the  result  for 
a  season  commonly  was  a  mixture  of  the  two.    But  now  there  is 


Ix 


ARCHITECTURAL 


no  one  acknowledged  style.  Wc  can  hardly  say  that  Gothic  is  now 
60  fully  acknowledged  as  it  was  a  little  time  ago,  and  as  to  the 
form  of  Gothic  there  is  still  no  agreement  at  all.  Each  architect 
practically  chooses  his  own  style.  That  is,  he  sits  down  and  con- 
siders of  what  past  age  he  shall  try  and  reproduce  the  architecture. 
Such  a  state  of  things  is  altogether  new ;  there  has  been  nothing 
like  it  at  any  earlier  time.  The  nineteenth  century  stands  alone 
in  having  no  one  characteristic  style.  The  fact  is  at  least  worth 
notice  in  an  attempt  to  sketch  the  succession  of  the  characteristic 
styles  of  earlier  centuries. 


Table  of  the  Architectural  Styles  in  England. 

\  Primitive  or  Pre -Norman  Eoman- 

I.   RoMAXKSQUK             \        csquc  (pp.  xxxiv-xxxvii)      .     .  Before     1066 

JNorman 1066—1195 

\  Early  Englisli  or 

Lancet 1189—1300 

II.   GOTHIC  or  Pointed  Vp^^^^^^^^JGe^om^^^^^^             .     .     .  1300-1377 

I  Perpendicular    .     ." 1377—1547 

III.   Eknaissance  or  Eevived  Italian,    including  Jacobean  (see 

p.  lix),  Georgian,  Palladian,  etc 15i7et8eq. 

The  last  thirty  years  or  so  of  each  period  may  be  described  as  a  time 
of  Transition  from  o'ne  style  to  the  following.  The  Elizabethan  or  Tudor 
style  marks  the  transition  from  Gothic  to  Renaissance. 

Glossary  of  Architectural  Terms  used  in  the  Handbook. 


Abacus,  the  tablet  or  slab  above 
the  capital  of  a  column. 

Aisle,  the  side-building  of  a  church 
(or  hall),  attached  to  the  main 
body,  commonly  at  a  lower  height. 

Apse,  the  circular  or  polygonal  end- 
ing of  a  church  or  its  main  body, 
commonly  of  the  E,  limb,  in  Ger- 
many often  at  both  ends. 

Arcade,  a  series  of  arches  supported 
by  piers  or  columns,  either  open 
or  backed  by  masonry. 

Arches  may  be  Round  (semicircular, 
etc.)  or  Poin'ed  (Lancet,  etc.).  A 
Stilted  Arch  is  one  in  which  the 
curve  begins  above  the  impost 
(q.  v.).  The  Four-centred  or  Tudor 
Arch  is  a  depressed  form,  in  v.hich 
the  curves  must  be  referred  to  four 
diflerent  centres.  A  Containing  Arch 
is  the  outer  arch  of  a  window, 
enclosing  the  smaller  arches  at  the 
top  of  the  lights  (q.  v.).  Segmental 
Arch,  one  forming  a  segment  of  a 
circle. 

Architrave,  the  lowest  member  of  the 
entablature,  resting  on  the  abacus 
(see  above)  and  connecting  one 
column  with  another. 

Ashlar,  hewn  or  squared  stone  used 
in  building. 


Bailer/,   courtyard  of  a   castle. 

Bay,  the  part  of  the  building  be- 
tween two  pillars  in  the  nave  of  a 
church,  or  any  similar  individual 
of  a  series  of  repetitions. 

Bay-windoiD ,  a  projecting  window 
of  any  shape,  built  up  from  the 
ground,    often   called  Bow-window. 

Boss,  a  mass  of  carving  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  ribs  of  a  vault,  etc. 

Broach  Spire,  a  spire  springing  from 
a  tower  without  the  intervention 
of  a  parapet  or  other  architectural 
feature  to  mark  the  transition. 

Buttress,  an  external  support  to  the 
wall  of  a  building;  Flying  Buttress, 
one  supporting  an  upper  wall  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  an  arch 
above  a  lower  part  of  the  building 
(as  the  aisle  of  a  church). 

Campanile,  bell  tower  (Ital.). 

Cathedral  Church,  a  church  contain- 
ing the  cathedra  or  seat  of  a  bis- 
hop. A  Conventual  Church  is  a 
church  served  by  monks  or  regular 
clergy;  a  Collegiate  Church  is  one 
served  by  a  body  of  canons  or 
other  secular  clergy.  A  Minster  is 
a  great  church,  commonly  cathe- 
dral, conventusj,  or  collegiate. 

Chancel,  the  same  as  Choir  (q.  v.). 


GLOSSARY 


1x1 


Chantry^  a  small  chapel  over  or  near 
the  tomb  of  the  founder,  used  for 
the  chanting  of  masses  for  his  soul. 

Chapter-house,  the  place  of  meeting 
of  a  chapter  or  monastery. 

Chevron^  zigzag  moulding  or  orna- 
mentation. 

Choir,  the  part  of  a  church  set  apart 
for  the  clergy  and  other  oflicials, 
commonly  the  E.  part,  but  in 
Germany  often  at  both  ends. 

Clerestory,  the  uppermost  of  the  three 
stages  of  a  great  church,  standing 
clear  above  the  aisles. 

Cloister,  a  covered  court  in  a  mon- 
astery or  college,  commonly  attach- 
ed lo  the  church. 

Column,  the  support  of  an  arch  or 
entablature,  keeping  somewhat  of 
classical  style  and  proportion. 

Corbel,  an  ornamented  projection  or 
bracket  supporting  a  weight. 

Cornice,  the  highest  member  of  the 
entablature. 

Crocket,  a  conventional  tuft  of  foliage 
used  in  the  ornamentation  of  ga- 
bles, etc. 

Crypt,  a  vault  beneath  a  building, 
wholly  or  partly  under  ground. 

Diaper,  a  uniform  ornamental  pattern 
covering  a  tlat  surface. 

Dormer-window,  a  window  rising  from 
a  sloping  roof  and  covered  by  a 
small  gable. 

Dormitory,  the  sleeping-place  of  a 
monastery. 

Entablature,  the  horizontal  mass  sup- 
ported by  the  columns  in  Greek 
architecture ,  divided  into  Archi- 
trave, Frieze,   and  Cornice  (q.  v.). 

Flamboyant  Style,  the  late-Gothic  style 
of  France,  so  called  from  the  flame- 
like form  of  its  tracery,  occasion- 
ally met  with  in  England. 

Frieze ,  the  middle  member  of  the 
entablature ,  often  enriched  with 
sculpture. 

Galilee,  a  porch  or  chapel  at  the 
entrance  to  a  church;  see  foot-note 
at  p.  419. 

Gargoyle,  a  projecting  carved  water- 
spout, usually  in  the  form  of  a 
grotesque  animal. 

Groin,  the  curve  or  edge  formed  by 
the  intersection  of  two  vaults. 

Half-timbered  or  Timbered  Buildings, 
buildings  consisting  of  wooden 
beams  and  posts,  with  the  inter- 
vening spaces  tilled  up  with  plas- 
ter, clay,  or  brick-work. 

Hammer -beam,  a  large  projecting 
beam  used  to  support  the  rafters 
of  a  roof  in  place  of  a  tie-beam. 


Herring-hone  Work,  masonry  in  which 
the  stones  are  laid  aslant  instead 
of  Hat. 

Impost,  the  point  where  the  arch 
rises  from  its  piers. 

Jamb,  the  side  of  a  door,  window, 
or  archway. 

Lady  Chapel,  a  chapel  dedicated  to 
the  Virgin  Mary. 

Lich  Gate,  a  covered  gateway  at  the 
entrance  to  a  churchyard,  through 
which  the  bodies  of  the  dead  are 
carried  (A.  S.  lie,  a  corpse). 

Lierne-ribs,  the  smaller  intermediate 
ribs  in  a  vault,  not  rising  from 
the  impost. 

Light,  a  window -opening,  compart- 
ment of  a  window. 

Moulding,  a  general  term  applied  to 
all  the  varieties  of  outline  or  con- 
tour given  to  the  angles  of  the 
various  subordinate  parts  and  fea- 
tures of  buildings ,  whether  pro- 
jections or  cavities,  such  as  cor- 
nices, capitals,  bases,  etc.  (Parker). 

Mullion,  an  upright  bar  of  stone  di- 
viding a  window  into  compart- 
ments (lights). 

Nave,  the  main  body  of  a  church, 
occupied  by  the  general  congre- 
gation. 

Ogee,  a  curved  line  or  moulding  partly 
concave  and  partly  convex  (adjec. 
Ogival). 

Oriel,  a  window  like  a  bay-window, 
but  supported  by  corbels  and  not 
resting  on  the  ground. 

Panelling,  ornamentation  of  a  flat 
surface  by  recessed  compartments. 

Pargeted,  adorned  with  plaster  orna- 
mentation. 

Pier,  the  support  of  an  arch,  whether 
taking  the  form  of  a  column  or 
not. 

Presbytery,  the  part  of  a  church  con- 
taining the  high-altar. 

Refectory,  the  dining-hall  of  a  mon- 
astery. 

Reredos,  the  screen  at  the  back  of 
an  altar. 

Ribs,  the  raised  bars  of  masonry  mark- 
ing the  joints  or  intersections  of 
a  vault. 

Rusticated  Masonry,  masonry  marked 
by  deeply  grooved  joints  round 
each  slonc,  the  faces  of  the  stones 
being  generally  left  rough. 

Sedilia,  the  seats  lor  the  officiating 
clergy  on  the  S.  side  of  the  choir, 
near  the  altar. 

Solar,  upper  room  or  loft,  withdraw* 
ing  room. 


Ixii 


ANCIENT  MONUMENTS. 


Spandrel ,  the  space  (usually  trian- 
gular) Ijetween  the  span  or  curve 
of  an  arch  and  the  right  angle 
enclosing  it. 

Splay,  the  embrasure,  or  sloping  side 
of  a  window-opening. 

Tie-heam,  a  transverse  beam  holding 
together  the  sides  of  a  roof  or  wall. 

Tracery,  the  ornamental  work  in  the 
heads  of  windows,  etc.,  formed  by 
the  crossing  or  interweaving  of  bars 
of  stone.  Plate  Tracery  ,  the  sim- 
jjlest  form,  consists,  as  it  were,  of 
openings  punched  or  pierced  in  a 
stone  surface.  In  Geometrical  Tra- 
cery the  forms  are  those  of  regular 
geometrical  figures,  while  in  the 
later  Flowing  Tracery  great  irregu- 
larity of  outline  prevails. 

Transept,  the  cross -limb  of  a  church 
(or  barn). 


Triforiiim  ('thoroughfare'"),  the  second 
stage  or  story  of  a  church,  between 
the  nave-arcade  and  the  clerestory 
(q.  v.).  In  its  fully  developed  form 
a  passage  runs  round  it. 

Vatilt,  Vanlting ,  the  arched  ceiling 
of  a  building,  of  stone  or  brick. 
The  simplest  and  most  ancient  form 
of  vault  over  a  rectangular  area 
is  the  Cylindrical,  Barrel,  or  Wag- 
gon Vault,  which  springs  from  two 
parallel  walls.  Groined  Vaulting 
is  formed  by  the  intersection  of 
vaults  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles.  Fan  Tracery  Vaulting,  which 
seems  to  be  peculiar  to  English 
Perp.  architecture,  is  a  form  in 
which  all  the  ribs  have  the  same 
curve  and  produce  an  effect  some- 
what resembling  the  sticks  of  a 
fan. 


Ancient  Monuments 

by 

General  Pitt  Rivers,  Government  Inspector  of  Ancient  Monuments. 

The  Ancient  Monuments  Act  cf  1882  is  purely  permissive.  It  enables 
the  owners  of  pre-historic  and  other  ancient  monuments ,  who  desire  to 
do  so,  to  place  them  under  the  guardianship  of  H.  M.  Commissioners  of 
Works,  after  which  it  becomes  illegal  to  destroy  them.  They  continue  to 
be  the  property  of  their  owners,  as  before,  but  subject  to  their  being  pre- 
served as  National  Monuments,  and  these  provisions  are  binding  on  future 
owners.  The  fact  of  a  monument  being  under  the  Act  is  consequently  no 
criterion  of  its  historic  value i  it  merely  represents  a  voluntary  arrange- 
ment between  the  Government  and  the  owner.  Some  of  the  most  import- 
ant are  not  included,  whilst  those  that  are  under  the  Act,  amounting  to 
some  40  in  all,  are  not  in  all  cases  those  which  would  have  been  selected 
as  the  best  examples.  They  afford,  however,  a  very  fair  sample  of  the 
class  to  which  they  belong.  In  the  following  brief  notice  of  some  of  the 
principal  Ancient  Monuments  of  Great  Britain,  the  letter  (I)  is  appended 
to  those  which  are  included  under  the  Act. 

Stone  Circles  and  Collections  of  Standing  Stones.  The  majority  of  these 
appear  to  have  been  sepulchral,  but  their  uses  probably  varied  in  different 
localities.  Amongst  these,  Stonehenge  (p.  100)  stands  pre-eminent.  Its  date 
has  never  been  ascertained,  nor  is  it  likely  that  much  light  will  be  thrown 
upon  it,  until  the  ground  around  has  been  carefully  excavated  and  exam- 
ined. It  has  suffered  chiefly  from  the  elements,  and  is  liable  to  further  in- 
jury from  the  same  cause.  Amongst  other  monuments  of  the  same  class,  the 
most  important  are  :  The  Ring  of  Brogar,  in  the  Orkneys,  15  M.  from  Kirk- 
wall (p.  525):  Callernish  (I)-  in  the  Island  of  Lewis,  16  M.  from  Stornoway; 
the  Stone  Circle  on  Castle  Rigg  (I),  near  Keswick,  Cumberland;  Long  Meg 
and  her  Daughters  (p.  382);  the  Rollrich  or  Rollright  Stones  (I;  p.  188); 
and  the  Circle  at  Stanton  Drew  (I;  p.  121).  —  Cromlechs.  These  consist 
of  upright  stones,  surmounted  by  one  or  more  cap-stones,  and  they  have 
generally  formed  chambers  for  the  reception  of  the  dead,  covered  by  long 
or  round  mounds,  which  have  been  destroyed,  leaving  the  chambers  bare. 
They  belonged  for  the  most  part  to  the  Stone  Age.  Amongst  them  may 
be  mentioned:  Kits  Coty  House  (I;  ^.34);  Plas  Newydd ,  in  Anglesey 
(p.  294);  and  the  Pentre  Evan  (I)  in  Pembrokeshire.—  Chambered  Tumuli. 
Among  the  best  examples  are  the  burial  places  of  the  Stone  Age  folk  at 
Stoney  Littleton    (I),   near  Wellow,    Somersetshire,    5  M.  from   Bath;  the 


ANCIENT  MONUMENTS.  ^^"^ 

Tumulus  ;it  Uley  (I),  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Stroud,  Glouceatersliire ;  and 
the  Chambered  Mound  at  Maeshowe.  Long  Barrowa,  of  the  same  pe- 
riod, but  without  chambers,  are  to  be  seen  in  various  parts  of  Great 
Britain.  —  Round  Barrows.  The  graves  of  the  Bronze  Ago  people  are  to 
be  seen  spread  over  the  greater  part  of  Great  Britain.  Sume  of  the  best, 
including  the  ,«o -called  Boicl  Bavroivs ,  Bell  Barrows^  and  Disc  Barrows^ 
are  to  be  ficen  on  Salisbury  Plain,  ne;ir  Stonehenge,  or  on  the  road  from 
Salisbury  to  Blandford,  near  Woodyates,  about  12  M.  from  Salisbury.  — 
British  Gamps.  These  usually  occupy  commanding  positions,  on  the  tops 
of  hills,  and  are  surrounded  by  one  or  more  banks  and  ditches.  They 
were  probably  used  as  places  of  refuge  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  districts 
surrounding  them,  when  attacked  by  neighbouring  tribes  ,  and  many^  are 
known  to  have  been  subsectuently  occupied  in  Roman  times.  Maiden 
Castle  (p.  97)  is  one  of  the  most  elaborate  examples  of  these  structures. 
The  entrance  to  the  main  entrenchment  is  covered  by  a  series  of  earth- 
works, resembling  the  Demi-Lunes  of  a  modern  fortification.  Old  Sarum 
(Sorbiodunum ;  p.  98)  was  probably  originally  a  British  Camp ,  though 
much  altered  in  Saxon  and  Korman  times.  From  its  historical  associations 
it  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  monuments  of  this  class  in  the  country. 
Cadbury  Camp  (p.  122);  Worlebury,  on  the  hill  above  Weston-super-Mare 
(p.  126)-,  Cissbury  (p.  53)-,  Barbury  Castle,  between  Swindon  and  Marl- 
borough-, and  the  Black  and  White  Catherthuns  (I),  5  M.  from  Brechin, 
Forfarshire,  may  also  be  mentioned  as  some  of  the  most  interesting.  — 
Places  of  Worship  and  Assembly.  These  differ  from  the  Camps  in  having 
their  ditches  inside  of  the  ramparts,  instead  of  outside,  or  in  having  banks 
without  ditches.  The  most  important,  on  account  of  its  great  size,  is  un- 
doubtedly Avebury  (p.  108).  This  has  a  circle  of  large  stones  within  the 
ditch,  and  other  smaller  circles  of  stones  formerly  existed  in  the  interior, 
which  are  now  partly  destroyed.  Arbor  Low  (I ;  p.  379)  is  another  struc- 
ture of  the  same  character,  having  a  circle  of  32  stones  in  the  interior, 
all  of  which  have  fallen-,  the  Circle  on  Eyam  Moor  (I;  p.  376)  is  a 
smaller  example  of  the  same  class;  Arthur's  Round  Table,  near  Penrith, 
has  a  bank  and  ditch,  but  no  stone  circle;  Mayborough,  close  to  it,  has  a 
bank  constructed  of  carried  stone;  the  Circles  at  Thornborough,  near  Tan- 
field,  Yorkshire,  are  of  the  same  class;  the  Circle  at  Knowlton,  7  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Wimborne,  completes  the  list  of  these  structures.  The  latter, 
though  of  small  relief  and  little  known,  is  interesting  from  having  an 
early  Norman  church  in  the  centre,  which  in  all  probability  replaced 
some  earlier  pagan  place  of  worship.  —  Dykes  and  Continuous  Entrench- 
ments. The  Wall  of  Antoninus,  between  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  Firth  of 
Clyde,  marking,  as  it  does,  the  most  northern  boundary  of  the  Roman 
Empire,  is  a  monument  of  interest,  not  only  to  Scotsmen,  but  to  the 
whole  civilized  world.  It  is  now  almost  entirely  destroyed,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  well-preserved  portion  near  Falkirk.  The  Roman  Wall  be- 
tween Carlisle  and  Newcastle  is  comparatively  well-preserved.  One  of  the 
most  interesting  of  the  several  Camps,  along  the  line,  is  that  at  Chesters 
(Cilurnum),  near  Hexham.  Traces  of  the  great  entrenchment  called  Wans- 
dyke,  having  its  ditch  to  the  N.,  may  be  seen  in  several  places,  run- 
ning from  the  Severn  on  the  W.,  to  Savernake  Forest  on  the  E.  The  best 
position  for  seeing  this  dyke  is  at  Shepherd's  Shore,  4  M.  to  the  N.  of  De- 
vizes. Bokerly  Dyke  (p.  102),  11  M.  to  the  W.  of  Salisbury,  on  the  Roman 
Road  to  Badbury  Rings,  is  an  entrenchment  of  high  relief,  4  M.  in  length, 
with  a  ditch  to  the  N.  E.  It  is  of  special  interest,  on  account  of  its  hav- 
ing lately  been  proved  to  have  been  constructed  subsequently  to  the 
reign  of  Honorius,  600  Roman  coins  having  been  found  in  the  rampart, 
dating  up  to  that  period.  It  probably  formed  part  of  the  defensive  ar- 
rangements of  the  Romanized  Britons  against  their  Saxcm  invaders.  Offa's 
Dyke  (p. 268),  running  from  the  Severn  northwards  to  the  mouth  of  the  Dee, 
and  several  dykes  in  Norfolk  and  Suffolk  may  also  be  noted.  —  Ancient  Flint 
Mines  of  the  Stone  Age.  The  people  of  the  Stone  Age  were  in  the  habit  of 
sinking  shafts,  30  or  40  feet  deep,  in  chalk  districts,  to  obtain  the  kind  of 
flint,  suitable  for  the  construction  of  their  implements,  and  when  the  proper 
vein  of  flints  was  reached,  galleries  were  driven  along  it  in  all  directions. 


Ixiv  'ancient  monuments. 

The  best  example  of  tlief5e  is  to  be  seen  within  the  Camp  at  Cissbury 
(p.  53),  near  Worthing.  Another  similar  collection  of  flint  mines  is  at 
Grimes  Graves,  near  Brandon,  Suffolk.  —  Vitrified  Forts.  Examples  of 
this  class  of  fortification  may  be  seen  at  the  Hill  of  Noath,  7  M.  to  the  S. 
of  Huntly,  Aberdeenshire ;  at  Knockfarrel,  near  Strathpcffer,  Rossshire;  at 
Craig-Phadrig,  near  Inverness  (p.  506);  at  Finhaven,  near  Aberlemno,  For- 
farshire ;  and  Bun  Mac  Uisneachan,  in  Loch  Etive.  —  Cup-marked  Stones. 
At  Ilkley  Moor,  in  Yorkshire;  at  Drumtroddan  (I),  2  M.  from  Port  William, 
Wigtonshire;  at  Aberfeldy,  Fortingale,  and  elsewhere  in  Perthshire;  at 
Blackshore,  West  Kilbride,  Argyleshire,  and  many  other  phices. —  Pictish 
Towers.  The  most  perfect  example  of  this  class  of  structure  is  at  Mousa  (I), 
in  Shetland  (p.  526);  others  are  at  Carloway  (I),  15  M.  to  theW.  of  Stornoway, 
in  the  Island  of  Lewis ;  at  Glenelg  (I),  on  the  W.  coast  of  Invernessshire ; 
at  Golspie,  Sutherlandshire ;  and  the  Dun  of  Dornadilla,  Durness,  Suther- 
landshire.  The  most  southern  monument  of  this  class,  somewhat  en- 
larged and  modified  in  form,  is  Edin's  Hall,  near  Duns,  Berwickshire.  — 
Sculptured  Stones.  These  are  perhaps  the  most  remarkable  monuments  in 
Scotland,  Wales,  and  the  north  of  England,  belonging  to  the  period  of  the 
Celtic  Church.  Many  of  them  are  elaborately  carved  with  the  interlaced 
patterns  and  symbols  that  are  peculiar  to  this  period,  and  by  examining 
a  large  series  of  them,  the  peculiar  forms  of  the  Celtic  Cross  may  be  traced 
in  their  development  from  the  Chi-Rho  Monogram  of  the  Catacombs  at 
Rome.  Of  these,  the  Pilhirs  at  Kirkmadrine  (I),  5  M.  to  the  S.  of  Stranraer, 
Wigtonshire,  are  inscribed  with  the  monogram,  and  are  reputed  to  be  the 
oldest  monuments  of  this  class  in  Scotland.  Others  of  early  type  may  be 
seen  in  the  ruined  Priory  at  Whithorn  in  the  same  county.  Amongst  the 
most  interesting  in  other  parts  of  Scotland  and  Wales  are  the  High  Cross 
at  Ruthwell  (p.  472),  remarkable  for  its  runic  inscription;  Fowlis  Wester, 
5  M.  to  the  N.E.''of  Crieff;  St.  Madoes,  near  Glencarse  Station,  7  M.  to  the 
E.  of  Perth;  Rossie  Priory,  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Inchture  Station,  in  Perth- 
shire; Glamis,  6  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Forfar,  and  Eassie,  not  far  from  it; 
three  at  Aberlemno,  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Forfar;  a  large  number  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Meigle,  in  Perthshire,  collected  in  the  old  school-house 
there;  Dyce  and  Monymusk,  in  Aberdeenshire;  and  many  others.  The 
largest  monument  of  this  class  in  Scotland  is  the  Suenos  Stone,  1  M.  to 
the  E.  of  Forres,  which  is  elaborately  carved  with  figures  on  both  sides. 
In  Wales,  monuments  of  a  similar  character  are  in  the  church  at  Llant- 
wit  Major  fp.  197);  several  crosses  in  the  grounds  at  Margam,  Glamorgan- 
shire (p.  198);  an  inscribed  cross,  with  a  Chi-Rho  Monogram,  at  Penmachno, 
41/2  M.  from  Bettws-y-Coed  (p.  312);  and  elsewhere.  —  Ogham  Stones. 
Stones  with  Ogham  Inscriptions  may  be  seen  at  Hackness,  5  M.  to  the 
N,  W.  of  Scarborough,  in  Yorkshire.  In  Scotland  at  Logie  Elphinstone, 
in  Aberdeenshire;  at  Newton,  in  the  New  House,  near  Inverurie,  Aber- 
deenshire; in  the  Museum  at  Golspie,  Sutherlandshire,  and  in  the  Museum 
of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries  of  Scotland,  in  Edinburgh.  In  Wales,  at 
Eglwys  Cymmyn,  6  M.  from  Whitland ;  at  Carreg  Fyrddyn,  near  Abergwili, 
and  in  the  churchyard  of  Llandawke,  Carmarthenshire;  at  St.  Dogmael ; 
Dugoed.  near  Clydai,  and  in  Clydai  Churchyard,  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  New- 
castle-Emlyn  (p.  203);  near  Margam  (p.  198),  and  elsewhere.  —  Round 
Belfry  Towei's.  Of  these  structures,  of  whicli  such  a  number  are  to  be 
seen  in  Ireland,  Scotland  possesses  two  examples;:  viz.  at  Brechin  (p.  512), 
and  Abernethy,  in  Perthshire.  Both  are  in  good  preservation.  —  Ro- 
mano-British Villages.  The  two  most  interesting  villages  of  this  period 
are  those  at  Woodcuts  and  Rotherly  (p.  102).  They  are  instructive,  on 
account  of  having  been  thoroughly  explored^  and  the  excavations  in  them, 
illustrated  by  means  of  a  series  of  upwards  of  30  models,  which  are  ex- 
hibited in  the  Museum  at  Farnham  (p.  102),  not  far  from  their  sites. 

The  above  has  no  pretension  to  being  a  complete  list  of  even  the  most 
important  pre-historic  and  ancient  Monuments  of  Great  Britain.  It  may 
however  serve  to  direct  the  traveller  to  some  of  the  most  accessible  spec- 
imens of  each  class. 


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1.  London.^ 

Arrival.  Cabs  (see  p.  3)  are  in  waiting  at  the  railway-stations  and 
landing-stages,  and  Private  Omnibuses^  holding  6-10  persons,  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  chief  stations  on  previous  application  to  the  Railway  Co. 
(fare  Is.  per  mile,  with  two  horses  Is.  6c?.-2s.  ,  minimum  charge  3-4s.). 
Those  who  arrive  by  water  have  sometimes  to  land  in  small  boats  (6^. 
for  each  per.son ,  3d.  for  each  trunk).  The  watermen  with  badges  are 
alone  bound  by  the  tariff. 

Railway  Stations.  There  are  over  300  railway-stations  in  London, 
including  those  of  the  Underground  Railway  and  the  suburban  stations 
of  the  ordinary  lines.  The  following  are  the  terminal  stations  of  the 
chief  lines.  1.  Euston  Square  Station,  near  Euston  Road  and  Tottenham 
Court  Road,  for  the  trains  of  the  London  and  Xorth  Western  Railway 
to  Rugby,  Crewe,  Chester,  N.  Wales,  Holyhead  (for  Ireland),  Birming- 
ham, Liverpool,  Manchester,  Carlisle,  and  Scotland.  2.  St.  Pancras 
Station,  Euston  Road,  for  the  trains  of  the  Midland  Railway  to  Bedford, 
Derby,  Nottingham,  Leeds,  3Ianchester,  Liverpool,  Newcastle,  and  Scotland. 
3.  King^s  Cross  Station,  Euston  Road,  adjoining  the  last,  for  the  trains  of 
the  Great  Northern  Co.  to  Peterborough,  Sheffield,  York,  Hull,  Lincoln, 
Manchester,  Liverpool,  Newcastle,  and  Scotland.  4.  Paddington  Station, 
for  the  trains  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  to  the  West  and  South-West 
of  England,  Windsor,  Oxford,  Birmingham,  Liverpool,  Manchester,  and 
Wales,  b.  Victoria  Station,  Victoria  Street,  S.  W.,  a  double  station  for 
the  trains  of  the  London,  Chatham,  and  Dover  Railway,  the  London,  Bright- 
on, and  South  Coast  Railway,  and  various  suburban  lines.  6.  Waterloo 
Station,  Waterloo  Road,  for  the  trains  of  the  London  and  South  Western 
Railway  to  Reading,  Windsor,  Southampton,  and  the  South-West  of  Eng- 
land. 7.  London  Bridge  Station,  for  the  Brighton  and  South  C<^tast  Rail- 
way. 8.  Charing  Cross  Station,  close  to  Trafalgar  Square,  for  the  trains 
of  the  South  Eastern  Railway  to  Tunbridge,  Canterbury,  Folkestone,  Dover, 
etc.,  and  of  local  lines.  9.  Cannon  Street  Station,  the  City  terminus  for 
the  same  lines  as  Charing  Cross.  10.  Ludgate  Hill,  11.  Holborn  Viaduct, 
and  12.  St.  Pauls  (near  Blackfriars  Bridge).  City  termini  of  the  London, 
Chatham,  and  Dover  Railway,  and  of  local  lines.  13.  Liverpool  Street  Station, 
for  the  trains  of  theGreatEastern  Railway  to  Cambridge,  Lincoln,  the  Eastern 
Counties,  and  local  stations.  1^.  Broad  Street  Station,  adjoining  the  la-'^t,  for 
the  local  trains  of  the  North  London  Railway.  15.  Fenchurch  Street  Station. 
near  the  Bank,  for  Blackwall,  Tilbury,  Gravesend,  Southend,  etc.  IB.  Baker 
Street,  for  Harrow,  Rickmansworth,  Aylesbury,  etc.,  and  suburban  stations. 
17.  Marylehone  Station,  for  the  trains  of  the  Central  Railway  to  Nottingham, 
Leicester,  Sheffield,  Lincoln,  etc.,  is  to  be  opened  in  1888. 

Steamers.  Steamers  from  the  Continent  of  Europe,  Scotland,  etc.  land 
their  passengers  at  wharves  below  London  Bridge  (landing,  see  above), 
while  the  large  Oceanic  liners  enter  the  docks  lower  down  the  river,  the 
passengers,  when  necessary,  being  sent  on  to  London  by  special  trains. 
American  visitors  to  England  usually  land  at  Liverpool  (p.  328)  or  South- 
ampton (p.  80).  Custom-house,  see  p.  xviii.  —  Thames  Steamboats,  see 
p.  3.  Steamers  also  ply  in  summer  to  Margate.  Ramsgate,  Southend, 
Clacton-on-Sea,  Harwich,  Ipswich,  Yarmouth,  Ostend.  and  Boulogne. 

Hotels.  The  following  are  large  railway-hotels,  with  rooms  at  various 
rates:  "Midland  Grand,  St.  Pancras  Station;  Euston,  Euston  Square; 
Great  Northern  ,  King's  Cross;  Great  Western,  Paddington  Station: 
Charing    Cross,    Charing   Cross    Station,    Strand;    Grosvenor,    Viitoria 


+    For  a  detailed   description   of  London   the  traveller   is  referred  to 
Baedeker's  Handbook  for  London   (iOth  edit.,  18P6). 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  1 


2     Route  1.  LONDON.  Hotels. 

Station ;  Holborn  Viaduct,  Holborn  Viaduct  Station ;  Cannon  Steeet,  Cannon 
St.  Station;  Geeat  Eastern,  Liverpool  St.;  Geand  Centeal,  Marylebone 
Station  (building).  —  Jn  or  near  Charing  Cross  and  (he  Strand:  Hotel  Cecil, 
R.  &  A.  from  55.,  Savot,  R.  Si  A.  from  7s.  Qd.,  both  on  the  Thames 
Embankment,  overlooking  the  river;  *Metropole,  'Victoeia,  *Grand, 
Northumberland  Avenue,  R.  &■  A.  from  5s. :  'Morleys,  Trafalgar  Square, 
R.  &.  A.  from  As.  Gd. ;  Golden  Cross,  352  Strand ;  Tavistock  (for  gentlemen 
only),  R.,  A.,  &  B.  7s.  6d.,  in  the  Piazza,  Covent  Garden:  Covent  Garden, 
corner  of  Southampton  St.,  peas,  from  lUs.  The  streets  leading  from  the 
Strand  to  the  Thames  contain  a  number  of  quiet  and  comfortable  hotels 
with  reasonable  charges:  Aecndel,  Temple,  Arandel  St.,  Nos.  19  and  28; 
Howard,  Kent,  Norfolk  St.;  Loudoun,  Lax's,  Rotal  Surrey,  Norfolk, 
Nos.  24,  5,  14,  and  30  Surrey  St.;  Adelphi,  Adam  St.;  Caledonian,  10 
Adelphi  Terrace.  —  In  or  near  Piccadilly:  "ALBEiiARLE,  Berkeley,  Avon- 
dale,  Bath,  all  in  Piccadilly;  ••'Long's,  15  New  Bond  St.:  '■'Bristol,  Bur- 
lington Gardens;  "^Limmee's,  George  St.,  Hanover  Square,  R.  &.  A. 
from  5s.  Cd.,  D.  4s.;  "^Brown's  &  St.  George's  Hotel,  Albemarle  St.  and 
Dover  St.;  Buckland's,  43  Brook  St.;  Cobueg,  Carlos  St.,  Grosvenor 
Square  (rebuilding);  HARVEr's,  Curzon  St.,  Mayfair.  The  following  are  all 
in  Jermyn  St.,  to  the  S.  of  Piccadilly:  Waterloo  (85),  R.  &  A.  from 
3s.  6d. :  Cavendish  (81),  R.  &  A.  from  5s".  6d. :  British  (82),  Brunswick  (52), 
Cox's  (55),  Rawling's  (37),  Mobles  (102),  five  comfortable  houses  for 
single  gentlemen.  The  accommodation  at  these  West  End  hotels  is  gener- 
ally good  and  the  terms  high  (R.  <fe  A.  5-7s. ,  D.  5-lOs.).  —  In  or  near 
Westminster:  Westminster  Palace,  Victoria  St.,  opposite  Westminster 
Abbey,  R.  &  A,  from  5s.;  Windsor,  Victoria  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.; 
Buckingham  Palace,  Buckingham  Palace  Gate.  —  In  Kensington  and  Neigh- 
bourhood: Hans  Place,  Hans  Place,  Sloane  St.;  Alesandea  ,  16-21  St. 
George's  Place,  Hyde  Park  Corner;  Cadogan  ,  75  Sloane  St.;  Queen's 
Gate,  98  Queen's  Gate;  South  Kensington  Hotel,  Queen's  Gate  Terrace; 
Royal  Palace,  Kensington  High  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  45.  Gd. ;  Impeeial  Pbivate 
Hotel.  121  Queen's  Gate;  'Bailey's,  opposite  Gloucester  Road  Station; 
■NoEBis's,  48-53  Russell  Road,  quiet,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.  —  Bettoeen 
Oxford  St.  and  Regent" s  Park:  Langham  ,  Portland  Place,  R.  &  A.  from' 
4s.  6d. ;  Maeshall  Thompson's,  28  Cavendish  Square;  Foed's  ,  14  Man- 
chester St.,  R.  &  A.  from  5s.,  well  spoken  of.  —  In  Bloom^hury  and  Neigh- 
bourhood: First  Avenue,  Inns  of  Court,  two  large  hotels  in  High  Holborn  ; 
Burr's,  11  Queen  Square,  pens.  8s. ;  Bedford,  93  Southampton  Row,  R.  &  A. 
from  2s.  6d. ;  "^''obuen  House.  12  Upper  Woburn  Place,  pens.  5s. -8s.  6(i. ; 
Horseshoe,  Bedford  Head,  Tottenham  Court  Road,  Nos.  264,  235,  both 
commercial.  —  In  the  City :  'De  Keysee's  Royal  Hotel,  Victoria  Embank- 
ment,  Blackfriars ,  12-20s.  per  day;  Meteopolitan,  South  Place,  Moor- 
gate  St.;  Klein's,  Seyd's,  Nos.  38  and  39  Finsbury  Square,  both  well 
spoken  of;  Cockle's,  Beunswick  Private  Hotel,  Charterhouse  Square, 
Nos.  89  and  14;  Ridler's.  133  Holborn;  Anderton's,  Peele's,  Nos.  162  and 
17 <  Fleet  St.;  Salisbury,  Salisbury  Square,  Fleet  St.  —  To  the  S.  of  the 
Thames:  Bridge  House,  4  Borough  High  St. ;  Piggott's,  166  Westminster 
Bridge  Road ;  York,  corner  of  Waterloo  Road  and  York  Road ;  Waterloo, 
2-16  York  Road.  —  Temperance  Hotels.  In  the  West  End:  West  Central, 
75  Southampton  Row,  R.  &  A.  from  2s.  3d.,  well  spoken  of;  Wild's,  70 
Easton  Square;  Mann's,  48  Torrington  Square,  largely  patronized  by  vege- 
tarians ;  Shirley's,  37  Queen  Square;  Buckingham,  28  Buckingham  St., 
R.  &  A.  from  4s.  6d. ;  Temperance  Hotel,  12  Catherine  St.,  Strand  (for 
eentlemen  onlv).  In  the  City:  Devonshire  House,  12  Bishopsgate  Without, 
R.  &  A.  from"3s.  6(i. ;  Wild's,  3i-40  Ludgate  Hill;  Teantee's,  6-9  Bridge- 
water  St.,  Barbican,  R.  &  A.  from  Is.  6d.  •,  Temperance  Hotel,  42  Wood  St., 
Cheapside,  R.  «k  A.  from  2s.  (for  gentlemen  only). 

Boarding  Houses  and  Private  Lodgings  are  generally  easily  obtain- 
able in  London,  through  application  to  a  respectable  house-agent  or  by  ad- 
vertisement. The  dearest  and  best  are  in  the  West  End:  e.g.  in  the  streets 
leading  out  of  Piccadilly  and  St.Jamcs's  St.  The  neighbourhood  of  the  British 
Museum  is  another  convenient  quarter  for  boarding  and  lodging  houses  at 
more  moderate  prices  (R.  from  15«  ,  R.  with  board  from  30s.  a  week). 


Cabs.  LONDON.  /.  Route.     3 

Eestauranta.  At  the  West  End.  Restaurants  of  the  'Hotel  Cecil  and 
"Savoy  Hotel  (see  p.  2j  ,  Princes'  Hall^  Piccadilly,  three  high-class  estab- 
lishments with  charges  to  correspond  ;  "Berkeley  y  see  p.  2;  tables-dhote  of 
the  *  Victoria,  "Mitropole,  Grand,  and  Midland  Grand  Hotels  (see  p.  2j.  Cri- 
terion, Piccadilly,  Trocadero  (D.  from  5s.,  wine  table  d'hote  from  35.  (id. J, 
all  in  Piccadilly  Circus ;  Monico's,  19  Shaftesbury  Avenue ;  "Burlington, 
"Verrey.  Grand  Cafi  Royal,  Nos.  169,  229,  68  Recent  St.  •,  "Kiihn,  21  Hano- 
ver St.;  'Frascati,  26  Oxford  St.  ^  Horseshoe,  264  Tottenham  Court  Road 
(D.  25.  Qd.y,  Inns  of  Court,  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields;  ''Holborn,  a  large  and 
handsome  establishment;  GattCs,  Tivoli  Grand,  ^Gaiety,  Simps&ns,  Adelphi, 
all  in  the  Strand  (Nos.  436,  65,  101,  410);  'Keitner,  28  Church  St.,  Soho; 
Epitaux,  9  Haymarket;  Willis,  26  King  St.,  St.  James's;  Victoria  Mansions, 
Victoria  St.,  Westminster;  ''Pugani,  44  Great  Portland  St.  Among  cheaper 
houses  may  be  mentioned:  Duval  Restaurant,  St.  Martin's  Lane;  H6tel  de 
Paris,  Cavonr,  Nos.  7  &  9,  and  20  Leicester  Square;  H6tel  d'ltalie,  52  Old 
Compton  St.;  H6tel  de  Florence,  57  Rupert  St.;  Veglio,  314  Euston  Road. 
—  In  thk  Crrr.  The  Cock,  Rainbow,  Dick's  Royal,  Nos.  22,  15,  8  Fleet  St. ; 
Old  Cheshire  Cheese,  16  Wine  Office  Court,  Fleet  St.;  Duval,  17  Newgate  St. ; 
Slater's,  72  Aldersgate  St.;  Palmerston,  34  Old  Broad  St.;  '•Auction  Mart, 
Tokenhouse  Yard,  Lothbury;  Lake  <L-  Turner,  Read's,  Sweeting,  "Simpson, 
Nos.  49,  ('4,  158,  and  76  Cheapside ;  "Pimm^s,  3  Poultry;  Baker,  1  Change 
Alley;  Ship  <£•  Turtle,  129  Leadenhall  St.;  -London  Tavern,  53  Fenchurch 
St. ;  "Crosby  Hall,  32  Bishopsgate  Within;  Three  iVuns,  10  Aldgate  High  St. ; 
New  Corn  Exchange,  58  Mark  Lane.  —  Oysters :  Scott,  18  Coventry  St., 
Haymarket;  Blue  Posts,  14  Rupert  St.  (American  specialties);  Rule,  35 
Maiden  Lane,  Covent  Garden;  Goto,  357  Strand:  Sweeting,  158  Cheapside; 
Pimm,  3  Poultry  ;  -Light/oot,  22  Lime  St. ;  Smith,  357  Strand. 

Cafes.  Simpson,  Gatti,  Criterion,  Kiihn,  Verrey,  Cafi  Royal,  Monico, 
Frascati,  see  above;  'Vienna  Cafi,  corner  of  Oxford  St.  and  Hart  St.,  near 
the  British  Museum;  Peele,  177  Fleet  St.,  Brown,  Cafi  de  Paris,  16  and  74 
Ludgale  Hill, 

Underground  Railways  {Metropolitan  and  District  lines).  These  lines, 
with  trains  every  few  minutes  and  numerous  stations,  aflford  the  quickest 
and  cheapest  mode  of  travelling  in  the  metropolis  and  its  suburbs.  — 
City  and  South  London  Electric  Railway  from  the  Monument  to  Stock- 
icdl  (2d.)- 

Thames  Steamboats  ply  from  London  Bridge  to  Chelsea  and  Kew  on 
the  W.,  and  to  Southend  and  Sheerness  on  the  E.,  calling  at  about  45  interme- 
diate piers,  chiefly  on  the  N.  bank. 

Cabs.  The  ^Four-wheelers'  have  seats  for  four  persons  inside,  and  the 
Hansoms,  or  two-wheeled  cabs,  have  seats  for  two  persons,  though  often 
used  by  three.  The  latter  are  the  faster  and  more  comfortable.  The  fares 
are  reckoned  by  distance,  unless  the  cab  is  expressly  hired  by  time,  the 
rate  being  6(i.  per  mile  or  fraction  of  a  mile,  with  a  minimum  of  1*. 
Each  pers.  above  two,  Od.  extra  for  the  whole  hiring.  Beyond  the  4-mile 
radius  from  Charing  Cross  the  fare  is  Is.  per  mile.  Per  hour  2«.  for  four- 
wheelers  and  2s.  Qd.  for  hansoms ;  each  addit.  V*  br.  6d.  or  Sd.  For  each 
article  of  luggage  carried  outside  2d.  A  rough-and-ready  means  of  calculat- 
ing fares  is  to  allow  id.  per  minute  in  a  hansom  (less  for  four-wheelers). 

Omnibuses  (fares  ^/-id.-Qd.)  traverse  the  streets  in  all  directions  from 
abojit  8  a.m.  till  midnight.  'Buses  keep  to  the  left  in  driving  along  the 
street,  and  stop  when  hailed.  To  prevent  mistakes,  the  passenger  should 
mention  his  destination  to  the  conductor  on  entering.  —  Tramways,  in 
the  outlying  districts,  fares  i-^d. 

Coaches.  During  summer  well-appointed  stage-coaches,  generally  start- 
ing from  Northumberland  Avenue,  ply  to  various  places  of  interest  round 
London;  e.g.  to  Virginia  Water  (29  M. ;  return-fare  18*.  Gd.),  Maidenht^ud 
(31  M.  ;  return-fare  15s.),  Box  Hill  (27  M. ;  return-fare  155.),  Brighton  (thrice 
weekly  ;  53  M.  :  fare  15s.).  St.  Albans  (25  M. ;  return-fare  155.),  Dorking  (26  M.; 
IO5.,  return  los.),  Redhill,  Hampton  Court  (16  M.).  Harroic  (15  M.),  Leather- 
head  (18  M.),  Sevenoaks  (26  M.),  Windsor  (30  M.),  Guildford  (,28  M.);  etc. 
Particulars  may  be  obtained  on  application  at  Cook's  Office,  in  the  Victoria 
Hotel,  or  at  Gaze's  (Office,  4  Northumberland  Avenue. 

1* 


4  Route  1. 


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Situation.  LONDON.  /.  Route.     5 

Theatres.  London  contains  about  50  theatres,  most  of  which  are  in 
or  near  the  Strand.  Opera  is  performed  at  the  Royal  Italian  Opera  or 
Covent  Garden  Theatre.  The  largest  theatre  is  Drury  Lane  Theatre.,  for 
spectacular  plays,  pantomimes,  etc.  Among  the  other  leading  theatres  are 
the  Lyceum  (Sir  Henry  Irving  and  Miss  Ellen  Terry),  the  Haymarket,  St. 
James's^  Savoy.,  Princes.'s's,  Adelphi.,  Strand,  Gaiety,  Vaudeville,  Globe,  Royal 
Court,  Criterion,  TooWs,  Garrick,  Shaftesbury,  Lyric,  Dah/s,  Terry'^s, 
Olympic,  Comedy,  Avenue,  Duke  of  York,  Prince  of  Wales,  Her  Majedys,  and 
Royalty. 

Music  Halls.  Alhambra,  Empire,  Leicester  Square  (with  elaborate 
ballets);  Palace,  Cambridge  Circus;  London  Pavilion,  Piccadilly  Circus; 
Tivoli,  Strand;  Oxford,  14  Oxford  St.,  and  many  others.  —  Concerts  of 
high-class  music  are  given  at  St.  James's  Hall,  Queen  s  Hall,  the  Royal 
Albert  Hall,  the  Crystal  Palace,  etc. 

Places  of  Entertainment.  Mme.  Tussaud^  Waxworks,  Marylebone  Road; 
Egyptian  Hall,  Piccadilly;  Moore  and  Burgess  Minstrels  (Christy  Minstrels), 
St.  James's  Hall;  St.  Georges  Hall  ('Matinee  Theatre');  Royal  Aquarium, 
Westminster;  O^yT/iptft,  near  the  Addison  Road  Station,  Kensington;  EarVs 
Court  Exhibition  Grounds;  Agricultural  Hall,  Islington;  Niagara  Hall  Skating 
Rink  (real  ice),  York  St.,  Westminster  (adm.  in  the  afternoon  5s.,  other 
times  35.)  ;  National  Skating  Palace,  Argyll  St.,  Regent  St. 

Exhibitions  of  Pictures.  Royal  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  Burlington  House, 
Piccadilly  (exhibition  of  works  of  modern  British  artists  in  summer; 
adm.  Is.);  New  Gallery,  121  Regent  St.  {is.);  Royal  Society  of  Painters  in 
Water- Colours,  5a  Pall  Mall  East  (1«.);  Royal  Institute  of  Painters  in  Water- 
Colours,  191  Piccadilly  (Is.);  Grafton  Gallery,  Grafton  St.,  Bond  St.; 
Royal  Society  of  British  Artists,  6  Suffolk  St.,  Pall  Mall;  Lemercier  Gallery, 
35  New  Bond  St.  (Is.);  and  numerous  smaller  galleries  in  Bond  St.  and 
Haymarket. 

'United  States  Minister,  Hon.  Col.  John  Hay,  123  Victoria  St.,  S.W. 
(11-3);  Consul-General,  William  M.  Osborne,  Esq.,  12  St.  Helen's  Place, 
Bishopsgate,  E.  C. 

The  Lady  Guide  Association,  852  Strand,  gives  information  of  all 
kinds  to  travellers. 

Principal  Sights.  The  table  on  p.  4  shows  the  principal  sights  of 
London,  with  the  hours  and  other  conditions  of  admission. 


London,  the  metropolis  of  the  British  Empire  and  the  largest 
city  in  the  world,  lies  in  the  S.E.  of  England,  on  both  banks  of  the 
river  Thames,  and  embraces  parts  of  the  four  counties  of  Middlesex, 
Essex,  Kent,  and  Surrey.  At  the  census  of  1891  the  aggregate  pop- 
ulation of  the  metropolitan  parliamentary  boroughs  (conterminous 
with  the  County  of  the  City  of  London)  was  4,211,056.  The  city 
has  doubled  in  size  within  the  last  half-century,  being  now  about 
15  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  9  M.  wide  from  N.  to  S.,  and  cover- 
ing 122  sq.  M.  of  ground.  The  area  included  in  the  Metropolitan 
Police  District,  extending  for  a  radius  of  15  M.  from  Charing  Cross, 
amounts  to  690  sq.  M.  and  contains  5,633,332  inhab.  (including 
the  'City'  proper). 

The  principal  and  larger  part  of  London  lies  on  the  N.  bank  of 
the  Thames,  and  includes  the  City,  or  commercial  and  money-making 
quarter  on  the  E.,  and  the  fashionable  West  End,  with  the  palaces 
of  the  Queen  and  the  nobility  and  most  of  the  sights  frequented  by 
visitors.  The  manufacturing  quarters  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Thames,  and  also  the  outlying  districts  to  the  N.  and  E.  are  com- 
paratively uninteresting  to  strangers. 


6     Route  1.  LONDON.  National  Gallery. 

Charing  Cross,  which  is  the  official  centre  of  London,  from 
which  the  cab-radius,  etc.,  are  measured,  and  also  practically  the 
centre  of  the  London  of  the  sight-seer,  is  the  open  space  to  the  S. 
of  Trafalgar  Square,  between  the  Strand  and  Whitehall.  *Tra- 
falgar  Square,  one  of  the  finest  open  spaces  in  London,  contains 
the  Nelson  Column  and  statues  of  Sir  Henry  Havelock,  Sir  Chas. 
Napier,  George  IV.,  and  Gen.  Gordon.  To  the  N.E.  is  the  church 
of  St.  Martins  in  the  Fields,  by  Gibbs. 

On  the  N.  side  of  Trafalgar  Square  stands  the  **National  Gal- 
lery, erected  in  1832-38  and  enlarged  in  1860,  1876,  and  1887 
(adm.,  see  p.  4 ;  catalogues  Is.  and  6d.).  From  the  large  number 
of  artists  represented,  the  collections  it  contains  are  of  the  highest 
value  to  the  student  of  art,  and  there  is  no  lack  of  master-pieces  of 
the  first  rank.  The  Italian  and  Netherlandish  Schools  are  admirably 
represented,  the  French  and  Spanish  less  fully.  The  Older  British 
Masters  are  well  illustrated,  and  the  large  collection  of  Turner's 
landscapes  is  unrivalled,  but  the  English  water-colourists  are  al- 
most unrepresented.   About  1100  pictures  in  all  are  exhibited. 

Rooms  I-IX,  reached  by  the  central  staircase,  contain  the  Italian 
pictures;  RE.  X-XII  the  Flemish  and  Dutch;  R.  XIII  the  late  Italian; 
R.  XIV  the  French ;  R.  XV  the  Spanish ;  RR.  XVI-XVII  (at  the  head  of 
the  staircase  to  the  right)  the  old  British-,  RR.  XIX-XXI  the  modern 
British;  and  R.  XXII  the  Turner  Collection.  In  the  basement  are  a 
collection  of  water-colours  by  Turner  (right),  water-colour  copies  of  early 
Italian  painters,  and  copies  of  Velazquez  and  Rembrandt  (left). 

Among  the  chief  treasures  of  the  Gallery  are  RaphaeVs  'Madonna 
degli  Ansidei'  (No.  1171,  R.  VI;  bought  in  1884  for  70,000/.),  'Garvagh 
Madonna'  (744,  VI),  Vision  of  a  Knight  (213,  VI),  and  St.  Catharine 
(168,  VI);  Titian's  Bacchus  and  Ariadne  (35,  VII),  Holy  Family  (635. 
VII),  and  'Noli  me  tangere'  (270,  VII);  Veronese's  Family  of  Darius 
(294,  VII);  portraits  by  Moroni  (697,  1316,  1022,  VII)  and  Morelto  (299, 
VII);  good  specimens  of  Oiov.  Bellini  (280,  189,  1440,  726,  VII);  the  Rais- 
ing of  Lazarus,  by  Sebastian  del  Piombo  (1,  VII);  Madonna  and  Child, 
ascribed  to  Leon,  da  Vinci  (1093,  I);  a  portrait  by  Andrea  del  Sarto  (690,  I); 
Fra  Angelica's  Christ  with  the  banner  of  the  Resurrection  (663,  II) ;  Botii- 
celWs  Nativity  (1034,  I) ;  a  Madonna  by  Perugino  (288,  VI) ;  works  by  Cor- 
reggio  (23,  15,  10,  IX);  portraits  and  other  works  by  Rembrandt  (775,  672. 
243,  757,  45,  X);  Charles  I.,  by  Van  Dyck  (1172,  X;  bought  for  17,500/.);  the 
Idle  Servant,  by  Maas  (207,  X);  Triumph  of  Julius  Caesar  and  the  'Chapeau 
de  Paille',  by  Rubens  (278,  X,  and  852,  XII) ;  Peace  of  Miinster,  bv  Terburg 
(896,  X) ;  three  beautiful  little  works  by  Jan  van  Eyck  (222,  186,  290,  IV) ; 
The  Ambassadors,  by  Holbein  (1314,  IV);  good  specimens  of  De  Hooghe 
(834,  835,  XII),  Cuyp,  ffobbema,  Hals,  Van  der  Heist,  I.  van  Ostade,  etc.; 
landscapes  by  Claude  Lor  rain  (R.  XIV);  characteristic  examples  of  Velazquez 
and  Murillo  (R.  XV);  numerous  works  of  Hogarth,  Reynolds,  Gainsborough 
(XVI.  XVII).  Constable  (XIX),  Turner  (XXII),  etc. ;  two  works  by  Rossetti 
(XVIII  and  XX). 

The  **National  Portrait  Gallery,  adjoining  the  National  Gal- 
lery on  the  N.E.,  was  built  in  1890-96  and  contains  a  collection 
(founded  in  1856)  of  over  1000  portraits  of  men  and  women  eminent 
in  British  history,  literature,  science,  and  art.  In  the  earlier  rooms 
are  specimens  of  Holbein^  Van  Dyck,  More,  Mierevelt,  Reynolds, 
Kneller,  Gainsborough.  Romney,  and  others;  in  the  modern  rooms 
is  a  fine  series  of  portraits  by  G.  F.   Watts. 


Westminster  Abbey.  LONDON.  I.  Route.     7 

From  Trafalgar  Square  Pall  Mall,  with  the  principal  Clubs, 
Marlborough  House  (Prince  of  Wales),  and  St.  Jumes's  Pulace,  leads 
to  the  S.W.  towards  the  Green  Park.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  Pall 
Mall  lies  St.  Jameses  Park,  at  the  W.  end  of  which  is  Buckingham 
Palace,  the  London  residence  of  the  Queen,  containing  a  fine  picture 
gallery  (access  difficult  of  attainment). 

NoRTHUMBBRLAXD  AvENUE,  leading  to  the  S.E.  from  Trafalgar 
Square  to  the  Thames,  contains  three  huge  hotels  and  the  Consti- 
tutional Club.    On  the  Embankment  is  the  National  Liberal  Club. 

Whitehall,  leading  to  the  S.  from  Trafalgar  Square,  passes 
the  Admiralty,  the  Horse  Guards  (headquarters  of  the  military 
authorities),  and  various  Government  Offices  (all  to  the  right). 
On  the  other  side  is  the  palace  of  *Whitehall,  the  only  relic  of 
which  is  the  fine  Palladian  Banqueting  Hall,  which  now  contains 
the  United  Service  Museum  (adm.,  see  p.  4).  Whitehall  is  con- 
tinued by  Parliament  Street,  leading  to  Parliament  Square, 
which  is  embellished  with  statues  of  Peel,  Palmerston,  Derby, 
Beaconsfield,  and  Canning.  To  the  left  rise  the  *Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment, a  huge  building  in  the  richest  late-Gothic  (Tudor)  style, 
by  Sir  Charles  Barry.  The  exterior  is  adorned  with  innumerable 
statues,  and  the  interior  is  fitted  up  with  great  taste  and  splen- 
dour (adm.,  see  p.  4;  adm.  to  sittings  of  the  House  of  Lords  or 
House  of  Commons  through  a  member;  the  former  open  to  the 
public  when  sitting  as  a  Court  of  Appeal^.  The  Victoria  Tower, 
the  largest  of  the  three  which  adorn  the  building,  is  340  ft.  high. 
—  Westminster  HaU,  adjoining  the  Houses  of  Parliament  on  the 
W.  and  forming  a  kind  of  public  entrance-hall,  is  part  of  the  ancient 
palace  of  Westminster  and  dates  mainly  from  the  14th  century. 
The  fine  oaken  ceiling  is  a  master-piece  of  timber  architecture. 

To  the  S.  of  Parliament  Square,  opposite  the  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment, stands  **Westminster  Abbey,  said  to  have  been  founded  in 
the  7th  cent.,  rebuilt  by  Edward  the  Confessor  (1049-65),  and  dat- 
ing in  its  present  form  mainly  from  the  latter  half  of  the  13th  cent., 
with  numerous  important  additions  and  alterations.  The  chapel  of 
Henry  VIL  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  the 
towers  from  1722-40.  With  its  royal  burial-vaults  and  long  series 
of  monuments  to  celebrated  men,  Westminster  Abbey  may  claim 
to  be  the  British  Walhalla  or  Temple  of  Fame.  Admission,  see  p.  4. 

The  'Interior  produces  a  very  fine  and  imposing  etTect,  though  this  is 
somewhat  mnrred  by  the  egregiously  bad  taste  of  many  of  the  monu- 
ments with  which  nave,  aisles,  and  transepts  are  filled.  The  most  inter- 
esting monuments  are,  perhaps,  those  in  the  Poets'  Comer  (S.  transept). 
Of  the  chapels  at  the  E.  end  of  the  church  (adm.,  see  p.  4)  the  most  note- 
worthy are  those  of  Edward  the  Confessor  and  the  beautiful  Perp.  **'Chapel 
of  Henry  VII.;  but  all  contain  interesting  tombs.  The  Cloisters  and  Chap- 
ter Iloute  should  also  be  visited. 

To  the  N.  of  the  abbey  stands  St.  Margaret's  Church,  with  some 
interesting  monuments  and  stained-glass  windows.  On  the  S.  it  is 
adjoined  by  Westminster  School,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  im- 


8     Route  1.  LONDON.  Kensington  Museum. 

portant  schools  in  the  country.    The   Westminster  Column,  to  the 
W.  of  the  Abbey,  commemorates  former  pupils  killed  in  war. 

From  Westminster  Bridge,  whicli  crosses  the  Thames  here,  the  ''Vic- 
toria Embankmekt  runs  to  the  N.,  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  to 
Blackfriars,  while  the  Albert  Embankment  extends  to  the  S.,  on  the  oppo- 
site bank,  to  Vauxhall  Bridge.  The  former  is  embellished  with  Cleopatra's 
Needle  (an  obelisk  brought  from  Egypt),  several  Staines,  and  pleasantly 
laid-out  gardens.  Among  the  chief  buildings  adjoining  the  Victoria  Em- 
bankment are  JVew  Scotland  Yard  (headquarters  of  the  police),  Montague 
House  (Duke  of  Buccleuch).  the  National  Liberal  Club  (p.  7),  the  Cecil  Hotel 
(p.  2),  the  Savoy  Hotel  (p.  2),  IYlq  Medical  Examination  Hall.  Somerset  House 
(p.  12),  the  School  Board  Office,  the  Temple  (p.  11),  Sion  College,  the  Citi/ 
of  London  School,  and  the  Royal  Hotel  (p.  2). 

Near  the  N.  end  of  Vauxhall  Bridge  (see  above),  on  part  of  the  site 
formerly  occupied  by  Millbank  Penitentiary,  is  a  large  new  Gallery  of 
British  Art  (to  be  opened  1898)  for  the  reception  of  a  collection  of  modern 
paintings  presented  to  the  nation  by  Mr.   Tate. 

We  may  now  return  to  Trafalgar  Square  and  proceed  to  the 
N.W.  to  Piccadilly,  a  handsome  street  extending  to  the  W.  from 
the  Haymarket.  To  the  right  is  Burlington  House,  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Royal  Academy,  Royal  Society,  and  several  other  learned 
bodies.  To  the  left  is  the  Museum  of  Practical  Geology  (adm.,  see 
p.  4;  entr,  from  Jermyn  St.).  The  W.  half  of  Piccadilly,  skirting 
the  Green  Park,  contains  many  aristocratic  residences  and  clubs. 

Piccadilly  ends  at  Hyde  Park  Corner,  the  S.E.  entrance  of  *Hyde 
Park,  the  most  fashionable  of  the  London  parks,  covering  an  area 
of  nearly  400  acres.  The  favourite  drive  extends  along  its  S.  side 
from  Hyde  Park  Corner  to  Kensington  Gate  and  is  thronged  with 
carriages  from  5  to  7  p.m.  in  the  season.  Parallel  to  the  drive  is 
Rotten  Row,  the  chief  resort  of  equestrians.  The  large  piece  of 
artificial  water  is  named  the  Serpentine.  To  the  W.,  Hyde  Park  is 
adjoined  by  Kensington  Gardens  ,  containing  Kensington  Palace, 
now  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Teck  and  various  royal  pensioners. 

The  line  of  Piccadilly  is  prolonged  towards  the  W.  by  Knights- 
bridge  (with  large  cavalry  barracks)  and  Kensington  Gore,  skirting 
the  S.  side  of  Hyde  Park.  To  the  right,  within  the  park,  rises  the 
Albert  Memorial ,  a  magnificent  Gothic  monument  to  the  late 
Prince  Consort.  Opposite  is  the  Albert  Hall,  a  huge  circular 
structure  in  brick  and  terracotta,  used  for  concerts  and  oratorios 
and  accommodating  about  10,000  people.  Behind  the  Albert  Hall  is 
the  Imperial  Institute,  opened  in  1893,  with  permanent  and  loan 
collections  illustrating  the  natural  and  industrial  resources  of  the 
British  Empire,  the  Colonies,  and  India.  Adm.  (p.  4)  by  the  E. 
and  W.  entrances.  The  Exhibition  Galleries  farther  to  the  S.  con- 
tain the  *India  Museum  (E.  gallery),  a  fine  collection  of  Oriental 
works  of  industry  and  art,  and  other  collections  connected  with 
South  Kensington  Museum  (see  below). 

**Soutli  Kensington  Museum,  situated  at  the  corner  of  Exhi- 
bition Road  (leading  S.  from  Kensington  Gore )  and  Cromwell  Road, 
includes  a  museum  of  ornamental  or  applied  art,  a  national  gallery 


British  Museum.  LONDON.  7.  Route.     9 

of  British  art,  an  art-library,  an  art  training-school,  and  a  school  of 
science  (adm.,  see  p.  4). 

The  *'Art  Collection,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  world,  is 
exhibited  in  three  large  glass-roofed  courts  and  in  the  galleries  adjoining 
them.  We  first  enter  the  Architectural  Court,  chiefly  containing  casts, 
but  also  a  few  fine  original  works.  The  South  Court  contains  small 
works  of  art  in  metal,  ivory,  amber,  porcelain,  etc.,  many  of  which  are 
on  loan.  The  North  Court  is  devoted  to  Italian  art,  comprising  numer- 
ous original  sculptures  of  the  Renaissance.  —  The  National  Gallert  of 
British  Art,  on  the  upper  floor,  contains  an  extensive  and  representative 
■Collection  of  British  Water- Colours,  the  Sheepshanks  Collection  of  modern 
paintings,  the  famous  ""Cartoons  of  Raphael,  etc.  On  the  same  floor  are 
the  '"Ceramic  Gallery,  the  "Jones  Collection  of  French  Furniture,  a  "Collection 
of  Enamels  (Prince  Consort  Gallery),  and  other  valuable  works  of  art. 

To  the  W.  of  this  museum  is  the  *Natural  History  Museum,  a 
handsome  and  most  convenient  structure,  containing  the  extensive 
natural  history  collections  of  the  British  Museum. 

On  the  N.,  Hyde  Park  is  bounded  by  the  Uxbridge  Road,  the 
prolongation  of  which  to  the  E.  forms  perhaps  the  most  important 
line  of  thoroughfare  in  London.  Oxford  Street,  the  first  of  this 
magnificent  series  of  streets,  begins  at  the  Marble  Arch,  or  N.E. 
entrance  of  Hyde  Park,  and  is  about  I'^M.  in  length.  The  squares 
near  its  W.  half  contain  many  of  the  most  aristocratic  houses  in 
London,  while  its  E.  half  is  an  unbroken  series  of  attractive  shops. 
Among  the  chief  streets  diverging  from  it  are  Edgware  Road^  Bond 
Street  (with  fashionable  shops  and  picture-galleries),  Regent  Street 
(see  below),  Tottenham  Court  Road,  and  Charing  Cross  Road  (lead- 
ing to  Charing  Cross).  In  Manchester  Square,  to  the  N.  of  Oxford 
St.,  is  Hertford  House,  containing  the  ^Hertford  Collection,  the  finest 
private  collection  of  paintings  in  England,  bequeathed  to  the  nation 
in  1897  by  Lady  Wallace,  but  not  yet  thrown  open  to  the  public. 
Oxford  Circus,  where  Oxford  St.  intersects  Regent  St.,  is  one  of 
the  chief  centres  of  the  omnibus  traffic. 

Regent  Street,  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  London,  containing  many 
of  the  best  shops,  extends  from  Waterloo  Place,  Pall  Mall,  to  Portland 
Place,  which  ends  at  the  Regent's  Park.  'Regent's  Park,  470  acres  in 
extent,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit  and  contains  the  gardens  of  the 
"Zoological  Society  (adm.,  see  p.  4)  and  the  Botanical  Societij  (adm.  Mon. 
(fe  Sat.  is. ;  alternate  Wed.  2s.  Qd.;  foreigners  also  on  application).  Both  park 
and  street  take  their  name  from  the  Prince  Regent,  afterwards  George  IV. 
On  the  S.  the  park  is  bounded  by  Martlebone  Road,  with  Tussaud's 
Waxworks  (adm.  is.;  Chamber  of  Horrors'  6rf.  extra;  close  to  Baker  St. 
station,  p.  1).  To  the  N.  of  Regent's  Park  rises  Primrose  Hill,  beyond  which 
lies  Hampstead. 

From  New  Oxford  St. ,  beyond  Tottenham  Court  Road  (see 
above),  two  short  streets  lead  to  the  left  (N.)  to  the  **Biitish  Mu- 
seum (adm.,  see  p.  4),  a  huge  building  with  an  Ionic  portico, 
containing  a  series  of  extensive  and  highly  valuable  collections. 

Ground  Floor.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  section  for  Print- 
ed Books  and  Manuscripts,  containing  numeroiifl  incunabula,  autographs, 
and  other  objects  of  the  greatest  interest  and  value.  —  The  galleries  to 
the  left  contain  the  Greek  and  Roman  Sculptures,  including  the  famous 
"'"Elgin  Marbles.  —  Other  galleries  on  this  side  (W.)  contain  the  almost 
equally  important  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  Collections.  —  The  door  imme- 


10     Route  1.  LONDON.  St.  Paul's. 

diately  opposite  tlie  main  entrance  leads  to  the  huge  circular  *Reading 
Koom,  which  is  shown  to  visitors,  on  application  T'»  the  official  at  the 
entrance. 

Upper  Floor.  The  W.  wing  contains  the  Ethnological  Department, 
the  Mediaeval  Antiquities,  the  Glass  and  Ceramic  Gallery,  and  the  Col- 
lection of  Prints.  —  In  the  E.  wing  are  the  "Vases,  Bronzes,  Terracotta 
Works,  and  Gold  Ornaments.  —  The  N.  galleries  are  devoted  to  the  smaller 
Etruscan,  Egyptian,  Assyrian,  and  Phoenician  Antiquities,  including  an 
extensive  collection  of  miimmies;  and  to  the  Religious  Collections. 

Oxford  Street  is  continued  by  Holborn,  *Holborn  Viaduct  (a 
clever  piece  of  engineering),  Newgate  St.,  and  Cheapside.  To  the 
left  diverges  the  wide  Charterhouse  Street^  leading  to  the  extensive 
Smithfield  Markets  and  to  the  Charterhouse,  an  interesting  old 
building  used  as  an  asylum  for  old  men  ( adm..  see  p.  41.  Adjoining 
Smithfield  are  St.  Bartholomew' s  Hospital  and  the  *Church  of  St. 
Bartholomew,  with  a  fine  Norman  interior,  recently  restored. 

In  Newgate  Street,  to  the  left,  is  Christ's  Hospital  ('Blue-coat 
School"),  a  school  for  1000  boys  and  350  girls,  founded  by  Ed- 
ward VI.  The  boys  still  wear  their  curious  original  dress.  Just 
beyond  it  are  the  large  buildings  of  the  General  Post  Office,  the 
W.  section  containing  the  telegraph-department. 

A  few  yards  to  the  S.  of  Newgate  Street  rises  *St.  Paul's  Cathedral 
(adm.,  see  p.  4),  an  imposing  classical  building  with  a  beautifully 
proportioned  dome,  erected  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  in  1675-1710 
on  the  site  of  the  older  building  destroyed  by  the  Great  Fire  (1666). 

The  Interior,  though  somewhat  bare  and  dark,  is  imposing  from  the 
beauty  and  vastness  of  its  proportions.  It  is  second  to  Westminster  Abbey 
alone  as  the  burial-place  of  eminent  men.  particularly  naval  and  mili- 
tary officers.  As  in  the  Abbey,  the  monuments  are  seldom  of  artistic  value, 
but  a  prominent  exception  is  the  monument  of  the  ''Duke  of  Wellington^ 
by  Stevens.  The  Duke  and  Lord  Nelson  are  buried  in  the  Crypt  (6d.)-  The 
visitor  may  ascend  to  the  Whispering  Gallery.,  with  its  curious  acoustic 
properties,"  and  to  the  <S<o«e  Gallery  (M.).  which  affords  an  excellent  view 
of  the  city;  and  thence  to  the  Golden  Gallery  {U.)  and  the  Ball  (Is.). 

Cheapside,  with  the  church  of  St.  Mary-le-Bow  ('Bow  Bells'),  is 
prolonged  by  the  Poultry,  leading  to  the  Bank,  the  space  in  front  of 
which  is  in  business-hours  the  scene  of  a  traffic  probably  unrivalled 
elsewhere.  The  Bank  of  England,  an  irregular  and  low  edifice  by 
Sir  John  Soane,  is  open  daily,  as  far  as  its  business-offices  are 
concerned,  from  9  to  4.  The  printing,  weighing,  and  bullion 
offices  are  shown  by  the  special  order  of  the  Governor  or  Deputy 
Governor.  —  The  Royal  Exchange,  to  the  S.  of  the  Bank,  dates 
froml842-44(chief  business-hour  3.30-4. 30 p.m.  onTues.  &Frid.). 
—  Opposite  the  Bank,  at  the  end  of  the  Poultry,  rises  the  Mansion 
House,  or  official  residence  of  the  Lord  Mayor,  erected  in  1739-52, 
The  Lord  Mayor's  police-court  is  open  daily,  12-2,  but  the  state 
and  reception  rooms  are  shown  only  by  special  permission.  —  In 
Walbrook,  behind  the  Mansion  House,  is  the  church  of  St.  Stepheris, 
with  one  of  Wren's  best  interiors.  —  The  Guildhall,  or  council- 
hall  of  the  City,  to  the  N.  of  Cheapside,  was  originally  built  in  the 
15th  cent.,  but  was  restored  after  the  Great  Fire  and  provided  with 


The  Tower.  LONDON.  1.  Route.    1  1 

a  new  facade  in  1789.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  Great  Hall^ 
with  its  flue  timber  roof,  and  the  Museum  and  Art  Gallery  also 
deserve  a  visit.    The  Free  Library  is  open  to  all. 

Bethnal  Green  Museum  (adm.,  aee  p.  4),  abont  I'/s  M.  to  the  N.E.  of 
the  Bank,  may  be  reached  by  an  Old  Ford  omnibus  from  the  Bank,  by  a 
tramway-car  from  the  Aldgate  station  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway,  or  by 
train  from  Liverpool  St.  Station  to   Cambridge  Ilea'h. 

We  may  now  proceed  to  the  S.,  through  King  William  Street, 
to  London  Bridge,  passing  the  Monument^  a  lofty  column  (202  ft.) 
erected  in  commemoration  of  the  Great  Fire  (1666).  London  Bridge, 
erected  in  1825-31,  is  the  most  importaiit  of  the  bridges  over  the 
Thames  and  is  the  scene  of  an  immense  traffic. 

From  the  N.  end  of  London  Bridge  Lower  Thames  Street  runs 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Thames,  passing  the  Coal  Exchange, 
Billingsgate  Fish-Market,  and  the  Custom  House.  The  street  ends 
at  Great  Tower  Hill,  opposite  the  *Tower,  the  ancient  fortress  and 
state-prison  of  London  (adm.,  see  p-  4). 

It  is  poasiWe  that  a  Roman  fort  stood  here,  but  the  Tower  of  London 
properly  originated  with  William  the  Conqueror,  who  in  1078  erected  the 
*White  Tower,  forming  the  centre  of  the  mass  of  buildings.  It  contains 
a  Norman  ~Chapel,  extensive  collections  of  arms  and  armour,  etc.,  and, 
like  many  of  the  other  small  towers,  is  full  of  historical  interest.  The 
Crown  Jewels  are  kept  in  the  Record  or  Wakefield  Toicer. 

Below  the  Thames  here  runs  the  Tower  Subway  (V2^0-  ^^  *^® 
E.  side  of  Tower  Hill  stands  the  Royal  Mint  (adm.  by  order  pro- 
cured by  previous  written  application  to  the  Deputy-Master  of  the 
Mint),  and  on  the  N.  is  Trinity  House,  concerned  with  the  regu- 
lation of  lighthouses  and  other  matters  pertaining  to  navigation.  — 
Just  below  the  Tower  is  the  huge  Tower  Bridge,  opened  in  1894. 
The  Thames  Tunnel,  about  1  M.  farther  down,  is  now  used  for  rail- 
way traffic  only.  The  Blackxcall  Tunnel  (opened  in  1897)  is  6  M. 
bolow  London  Bridge.  The  Docks,  which  extend  for  several  miles 
down  the  river  from  the  Tower,  are  described  in  the  Handbook  for 
London. 

From  St.  Pauls  we  may  return  to  Charing  Cross  by  Fleet 
Street  and  the  Strand.  Fleet  Street,  deriving  its  name  from  the 
old  Fleet  Brook,  is  one  of  the  busiest  thoroughfares  in  London  and 
contains  many  newspaper  and  printing  offices.  To  the  S.  of  it  lies 
the  Temple,  originally  a  lodge  of  the  Knights  Templar,  but  now 
belonging  to  the  legal  corporations  (barristers)  of  the  Inner  and  the 
Middle  Temple.    The  Temple  Gardens  are  frequently  open. 

The  "^Temple  Church ,  in  the  Inner  Temple,  consists  of  a  Round 
Church  in  the  Norman  style,  completed  in  1185,  and  an  E.E.  choir  (1240). 
—   The  fine  Gothic  "Hall  oi  the  IMiddle  Temple  should  also  be  visited. 

On  the  N.  side  of  Fleet  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Chancery  Lane,  are 
the  Royal  Courts  of  Justice,  a  huge  Gothic  pile  by  Street.  At  the 
back  of  the  Law  Courts  lies  Lincoln's  Inn,  a  corporation  similar  to 
the  Temple,  with  a  valuable  old  library.  [Gray's  Inn,  another  Inn 
of  Court,  lies  to  the  N.  of  Holborn,  p.  10.] 

The  Stranp,  which  begins  here,  was  formerly  entered  from 


12     Route  2.  CHISLEHURST.  From  London 

Fleet  St.  by  Temple  Bar,  removed  in  1878.  It  contains  numerous 
theatres  and  newspaper-offices.  Adjoining  the  Law  Courts  is  the 
church  of  St.  Clement  Danes^  and  a  little  farther  on  is  St.  Mary- 
le-Strandfs.  Somerset  House,  to  the  left,  a  large  quadrangular 
building  on  the  site  of  an  old  palace  of  the  Protector  Somerset,  is 
devoted  to  various  public  offices.  The  E.  wing  is  occupied  by 
King's  College.  Savoy  Street,  a  little  farther  on,  leads  to  the  left  to 
the  Savoy  Chapel,  a  Perp.  building  of  1505-11,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Savoy  Palace.  —  Covent  Garden  Market  lies  to  the  N. 

Among  the  chief  points  of  interest  on  the  S.  or  Surrey  side  of 
the  Thames  are  *Lambeth  Palace,  for  600  years  the  residence  of 
the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury  (the  chapel  dating  from  1245,  the 
'Lollard's  Tower*  from  1434,  etc.),  with  a  fine  library  (adm.  by  special 
permission);  St.  Thomas's  Hospital,  on  the  'pavilion  system;  South 
London  Fine  Art  Gallery;  Bethlehem  Hospital,  a  large  lunatic  asylum 
['Bedlam');  St.  George's  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral;  Battersea  Park; 
*St.  Saviour's  Churcli  (13-16th  cent.),  near  London  Bridge;  Barclay 
and  Perkins^  Brewery ," Spurgeons  Tabernacle;  and  Guy's  Hospital. 

The  numerous  other  place?  of  interest  in  and  near  London,  such  as 
Chelsea  Hospital,  Greenwich  Hospital,  the  Crystal  Palace,  Hampton  Court, 
Bulwich,  Woolwich,  Richmond,  Keic,  Windsor  (p.  522),  and  Epping  Forest, 
are  described  in   Baedeker's  Handbook  for  London. 

2.  From  London  to  Dover. 

a.  South  Eastern  Railway  vi&  Tunbridge  and  Folkestone. 

77  M.  Railwat  in  l'/4-SV4  hrs.  from  Charing  Cross-  Cannon  Street,  and 
London  Bridge  (fares  13«.,  8«.  2d.,  6s.  51/2^.,  return  22s.  9f/..  16s.  id.,  12s. 
iid.;  mail  train  19s.  9d.,  13s.  2d.;  return  37s.  3d.,  26s.  id.).  The  3rd.  cl. 
fares  from  Cannon  St.  and  London  Bridge  are  a  few  pence  lower;  other 
fares  the  same.  On  week-days  cheap  return- tickets,  available  the  follow- 
ing day  or  from  Frid.  till  Mon.,  are  issued  for  the  early  morning  trains 
at  20s.,  15s.,  and  10s.  6d. :  these  are  valid  by  trains  of  the  L.,  C,  &  D.  Co. 
on  the  return -journey.  Some  of  the  ordinary  trains  run  via  Redhill  and 
rejoin  the  direct  line  at  Tunbridge  (p.  13).  —  Passengers  starting  from 
Charing  Cross  should  remember  in  choosing  their  seats,  that  after  backing 
into  Cannon  Street  the  locomotive  will  be  at  the  other  end  of  the  train. 

Crossing  the  Thames  and  leaving  London  Bridge  Station,  the 
train  traverses  the  busy  manufacturing  districts  of  Bermondsey  and 
Rotherhithe,  and  passes  (8/4  M.)  Spa  Road,  (5  M.)  New  Cross  (p.  44), 
8t.  John's,  and  (S^U  M.)  Grove  Park,  beyond  which  the  Crystal  Pal- 
ace is  visible  to  the  right.    Then  a  tunnel  more  than  1/2  ^-  long. 

11  M.  Chislehurst  {Bickley  Arms  Hotel),  beautifully  situated  on 
a  height  in  a  well- wooded  district.  Not  far  from  the  station  (turn  to 
the  right  and  then  ascend  the  hill  to  the  left)  is  Camden Piace  (now  a 
club  house),  formerly  the  residence  of  Camden  the  antiquary  (d.  1 623), 
and  the  retreat  of  Napoleon  III.  (who  died  here  in  1873)  and  the  Em- 
press Eugenie  after  the  Franco-German  War.  —  14  M.  Orpington 
(Maxwell  Arms).  —  Downe,  3  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  (1 51/2  >!•)  Chels- 
field,  was  for  40  years  the  home  of  Charles  Darwin  (d.  1882).  Tun- 
nel.   Beyond  (I6V2  M.)  Halstead,  21/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  which  are 


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to  Dover.  TUNBRIDGE.  2.  Route.     13 

the  Knockholt  Beeches  (see  below) ,  we  traverse  another  tunnel, 
13/4  M.  long,  and,  passing  through  rich  park-like  scenery,  reach 
(2OV2  -VI.)  Dunton  Green,  the  junction  of  a  short  branch  to  Wester- 
ham  (King's  Arms;  Crown),  ascending  the  valley  of  the  Darent. 
Westerham  was  the  birth-place  of  General  Wolfe  (1727-59) ,  to 
whom  a  memorial  has  been  erected  in  the  church. 

22  M.  Sevenoaks  (*Crown) ,  with  7514  inhab. ,  may  also  be 
reached  from  London  by  the  L.,  C,  &  D.  Railway  via  Swanley 
(comp.  p.  18).  The  S.E.  station  is  known  as  Tubs  Hill,  that  of  the 
L.,  C,  &  D.  Railway  as  the  Bat  &  Ball  Station.  The  church  of  St. 
Thomas  of  Canterbury  was  erected  as  a  memorial  of  Cardinal  Manning. 

To  the  S.  E.  lies  *Knole,  the  seat  of  Lord  Sackville  (minister  at 
Washington,  1881-88),  one  of  the  noblest  baronial  mansions  in  England, 
almost  unchanged  both  inside  and  outside  since  the  times  of  James  I. 
and  Charles  I.  Visitors  are  admitted  onFrid.  by  order  obtained  from  Messrs. 
Glasier  &  Sons,  7  St.  Jamess  St.,  London,  S'.W.  (1  pers.  2«.,  4  pers.  6*., 
7  pers.  lOs.).  The  rooms  shown  to  visitors  include  the  G^reat  Hall,  the 
Brown  Oallery  (with  portraits  by  Holbein  and  others),  the  Spangled  Bed- 
room db  Dressing  Room  (portraits  by  Lely),  the  Leicester  Oallery  (portraits 
by  Van  Dyck,  Mytens,  etc.),  the  Ball  Room,  the  Crimson  Drawing  Room 
(portraits  by  Reynolds),  the  Cartoon  Oallery  (with  copies,  by  Mytens,  of 
six  of  Raphael's  cartoons),  Lady  Betty  Oerviaine's  Bedroom,  the  Venetian 
Ambassador''s  Bedroom,  and  the  King^s  Bedroom.  The  magnificent  park, 
with  fine  beeches,  is  open  to  visitors.  —  Sevenoaks  is  also  a  good  centre 
for  many  other  pleasant  walks,  one  of  the  most  interesting  being  that  to 
the  N.W.  to  the  famous  Knockholt  Beeches  (*View)  and  (37-2  M.)  Chevening, 
the  beautiful  seat  of  Earl  Stanhope  (son  of  the  historian) ,  with  a  fine 
park  open  to  the  public.  —  About  3Vi!  M.  to  the  E.  is  "Ightham  Mote,  one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  a  moated  manor-house  in  England,  with  a  fine 
domestic  chapel  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIIL 

Beyond  Sevenoaks  the  train  penetrates  a  range  of  low  hills  by  a 
tunnel,  27-2  M.  long.  —  27  M.  Hildenborough. 

291/2  M.Tunbridgei'fiosecJ-  Crown;  Rail.  Rfmt.  iJoomsj,  a  market- 
town  with  10,123  inhab.,  an  old  Castle  (adm.  by  permission  of  the 
owner),  and  a  grammar-school  dating  from  1553,  now  in  a  large 
modern  building,  is  the  junction  of  the  S.E.  line  from  London  via 
Redhill  and  of  the  main  line  to  Tunbridge  Wells  Sind  Hastings  (R.4). 

From  Tdnbridge  to  Redhill  Junction,  21  M.,  railway  in  40  min.  (fares 
is.  9d.,  3s.  2d.,  is.  V/id.).  —  5  M.  Penshurst  (Leicester  Arms,  in  the  village,  2  M. 
from  the  station).  'Penshurst  Place,  the  lovely  seat  of  Lord  de  Lisle  and 
Dudley,  dating  in  part  from  the  14th  cent.,  contains  a  fine  picture-gallery, 
to  which  visitors  are  admitted  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  (12-1  and  3-6). 
The  hall.  64  ft.  in  length,  has  the  hearth  in  the  centre.  Its  chief  historical 
interest  lies  in  having  once  belonged  to  the  Sidneys,  portraits  of  many  of 
whom  hang  on  the  walls,  including  two  of  Sir  Philip  Sidney  (who  was 
born  here)  and  four  of  Algernon  Sidney.  The  trees  in  the  park  are  very 
fine;  one  avenue  is  known  as  'Sacharissa  Walk',  from  Dorothy  Sidney, 
the  'Sacharissa'  of  Waller.  The  walk  from  Penshurst  to  Edenbridge, 
through  the  quaint  and  pretty  village  of  C  hid  ding  stone .,  and  thence  via 
(41/2  M.)  Hever  is  very  picturesque.  Hever  (raih  stat.,  p.  36)  is  an  old 
embattled  mansion-house  (14th  cent.-,  shown  on  W^ed.),  where  Henry  VIU. 
often  visited  Anne  Boleyn,  and  afterwards  occupied  by  Anne  of  Cleves, 
who  is  Baid  to  have  died  here-,  it  is  now  a  farm-house.  The  church  of 
Hever  contains  several  monuments  of  the  Boleyn  family.  —  10  31.  Eden- 
bi'idge  (Crown),  also  a  station  on  the  L.  B.  S.  C.  R.  (p.  45);  15  M.  Oodstone. 
—  IS'/a  M.  Nut  field.     The  village  (Queen's  Head;    Crown),  1  M.  to  the  N. 


14    Route  2.  ASHFORD.  From  London 

of  the  railway,  possesses  several  pits  of  fuller's-earth.  21  M.  Redhill 
Junction^  and  thence  to  London  (21  M.),  see  R.  6. 

The  next  station  beyond  Tunbridge  is  (341/2^-)  PaddockWood, 
whence  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the  left  to  (10  M.)  Maidstone  (p.34), 
traversing  the  best  hop-district  in  the  kingdom. 

Fkom  Paddock  Wood  to  Hawkhvrst,  12  M.,  branch-railway  in  '/•;  hr. 
(fares  2s.,  Is.  3f/.,  iV/od.).  —  472  M.  Borsmonden.  About  4M.  to  the  S.W. 
is  Lamberhurst  ("Chequers),  described  by  Cobbett,  in  his  'Rural  Rides',  as 
'one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  that  man  ever  set  his  eyes  upon'.  Though 
situated  partly  in  Kent,  Lamberhurst  was  the  capital  of  the  Sussex  iron 
industry,  which  lingered  as  long  as  the  forest  furnished  charcoal  enough 
for  smelting:  almost  the  only  trace  of  it  now  preserved  is  in  such  names 
as  Forge  and  Furnace  Wood.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  the  ruined  Scotney 
Castle;  and  2  M.  to  the  W.  lies  Bayham  Abbey  (Marquis  Camden),  comprizing 
a  mansion  in  the  Elizabethan  style  and  the  picturesque  remains  of  the 
Prsemonstratensian  Abbey  of  the'  13th  cent,  (shown  on  Mon.  and  Wed.). 
Lamberhurst  and  Bayham  Abbey  may  also  be  visited  from  Tunbridge  Wells 
(p.  36).  —  6V2  M.  Gondhurst.  —  10  M.  Cranbrook  (George ;  Bull),  a  small 
town  with  a  Perp.  church  and  an  old  grammar-school.  —  12  M.  Hmckhurst 
(Queen's  Hotel). 

42  M.  Staplehurst.  —  56  M.  Ashford  (Saracen's  Head ;  Kent 
Arms;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  with  10,728  inhab.,  is  the  site 
of  the  large  workshops  of  the  S.E.  Railway.  The  parish-church 
has  a  good  Perp.  tower.  Lines  diverge  here  on  the  left  to  Canter- 
bury (see  below),  and  on  the  right  to  Hastings  (p.  41).  About 
31/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Ashford  is  Eastwell,  with  a  beautiful  park. 

Fkom  Ashfoed  to  Canterbury,  12  M.,  railway  in  72  hr.  (fares  2s. 
6d.,  Is.  Id.,  Is.  2^l2d.).  —  This  line  descends  the  valley  of  the  Slour, 
parts  of  which  are  very  picturesque.  —  2  M.  Wye,  with  the  SouthEasiern 
Agricultural  College,  opened  in  1894;  7  M.  Chilham  (Inn),  with  a  ruined 
Norman  castle;  9  M.  Chariham,  with  an  interesting  E.  E.  and  Dec.  church, 
containing  some  fine  brasses  and  old  stained  glass.  The  pretty  tracery 
in  the  windows  of  the  chancel  is  of  the  pattern  known  par  excellence  as 
'Kentish'.  —  12  M.  Canterbury,  see  p.  26. 

60  M.  Smeeth.  At  (64'/2  M.)  Westenhanger  is  a  farm-house  in- 
corporating the  remains  of  an  old  royal  manor-house,  said  to  have 
been  the  bower  of  Fair  Rosamond.  —  65'/2  M.  Sandting  Junction, 
for  (2  M.)  Hythe  and  (31/2  M.)  Sandgate. 

Hythe  (Seabrook  Hotel;  Swan),  a  town  with  4350  inhab.,  has  lost  its 
significance  as  one  of  the  Cinque  Ports,  but  is  now  an  important  mili- 
tary station,  with  the  chief  School  of  Musketry  of  the  British  army.  It 
possesses  an  interesting  P2.E.  Church,  with  a  raised  chancel  and  a  remark- 
able groined  crypt,  containing  a  huge  collection  of  bones  and  skulls,  the 
origin  of  which  is  doubtful.  Either  from  Westenhanger  or  Hythe  a  visit 
may  be  paid  to  the  (1  M.  to  the  N.W,  of  Hythe)  ruins  oi  Saltwood  Castle, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury.  Near  West  Hythe 
is  Stud/all  Castle,  an  ancient  Roman  camp.  —  Sandgate  (Royal  Kent;  Royal 
Norfolk;  Sea  View)  is  a  small  watering-place,  with  one  of  the  coast 
castles  built  by  Henry  VIII. 

Beyond  Westenhanger  Saltwood  Castle  (see  above)  comes  into 
view  to  the  right.  At  (69  M.)  Shorncliffe  Camp  is  a  permanent  mil- 
itary camp,  with  accommodation  for  5000  men  ;  the  huts  are  visible 
to  the  right.  Line  to  Canterbury,  see  p.  32.  —  Beyond  (70  M.) 
Radnor  Park  the  train  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct  and  reaches  (71 1/2  M.) 
Folkestcne^v/lieiice  a  short  branch-line  leads  to  Folkestone  Harbour. 


to  Dover.  DOVER.  2.  Route.    1 5 

Folkestone.  -  Hotels.  Leas,  on  the  promenade  of  that  name,  new: 
•Royal  Pavilion,  near  the  harbour,  R.  &  A.  frum  As.  6t?.,  B.  2«.,  I),  bs.  \ 
West  Cliff;  Qceen's,  Sandgate  Road;  M£tropole,  new;  Wampach's,  R.  33., 
B.  2s.,  D.  4s. ;  Hundeet'3,  Bouverie  Road.  —  Clarendon,  commercial;  Rose. 
—  Boarding  Houses  and  Private  Hotels.  —  Central  Cafi,  Sandgate  Road. 

Folkestone,  a  cheerful  and  thriving  seaport  and  watering-place, 
is  an  ancient  town  with  23,700  inhab.,  in  a  romantic  situation. 
Mail -packets  start  here  daily  for  Boulogne.  Folkestone  was  the 
birthplace  of  Dr.  William  Harvey  (1578-1657),  discoverer  of  the 
circulation  of  the  blood,  to  whom  a  monument  was  erected  here  in 
1881.  The  Parish  Church  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  priory-church 
of  St.  Eanswith,  founded  in  1095,  but  has  been  to  a  great  extent 
rebuilt.  The  old  Castle  has  almost  entirely  vanished.  The  favourite 
promenades  are  the  Lees,  a  grassy  expanse  on  the  top  of  the  cliff 
(fine  views ;  band ;  hydraulic  lift  from  the  beach) ;  the  Neiv  or 
Victoria  Pier  (band);  and  the  Pleasure  Gardens,  with  a  large  glass 
pavilion  containing  a  very  good  little  Theatre. 

The  walk  along  the  beach  to  (13/^  M.)  fiandgute  (see  p.  14)  is  very 
pleasant,  and  longer  excursions  may  be  made  to  Dover,  Hythe,  Saltwood 
Castle,  etc.  The  Sugar  Loaf  and  other  chalk-hills  to  the  N.  also  afford 
pleasant  objects  for  a  walk.  Facilities  are  also  afforded  for  circular  trips 
to  Boulogne,  Calais,  etc. 

Between  Folkestone  and  Dover  the  railway  is  carried  through 
the  chalk-cliffs  by  numerous  cuttings  and  several  long  tunnels,  the 
last  of  which  {^l\  M.)  passes  under  the  Shakespeare  Cliff  (j^.  16).  — 
77  M.  Dover  town.  The  boat-trains  run  on  to  the  Admiralty  Pier, 
where  the  steamers  for  the  Continent  start. 

Dover.  —  Hotels.  Lord  Warden  Hotel,  near  the  Pier  and  Railway 
Station,  a  large  house  with  a  view  of  the  sea,  R.  &  A.  from  os.,  B.  2  4s., 
L.  frum  2s.  6t7.,  D.  5s.  6t/. ;  *DovER  Castle,  King's  Head,  both  in  Clarence 
St.,  with  a  view  of  the  harbour;  Grand,  near  the  Parade.  R.  &;  A.  from 
as.,  D.  4s.  6d.:  Shakespeare,  Bench  St.,  well  spoken  of;  Harp,  near 
the  harbour,  R.  &  A.  3s.  6c?.;  Esplanade,  facing  the  sea;  Antwerp,  Market 
Place,  commercial;  Royal,  Clarence  St.;  *Royal  Oak,  near  the  rail,  stat., 
commercial. 

Porter  from  the  station  to  the  steamer  or  the  town,  each  package 
under  i41bs.  2d.,  over  14lbs.  4d. ;  from  the  steamer  to  the  station  or  to\Mi, 
including  detention  at  the  custom-house,  under  561bs.  Qd.,  over  56lb3.  Is. 

Steamers  to  Calais  and  to  Ostend  thrice  daily  (p.  xix). 

Cabs.  To  or  from  any  part  of  the  town,  for  1st  class  cabs  (drawn  by 
horses)  Is.  Qd.,  for  2nd  class  cabs  (drawn  by  ponies,  mules,  or  asses)  Is.; 
tu  or  from  the  Castle  or  Heights  2s.  6d. ;  per  hour  2s.  %d.  or  Is.  8o?.,  each 
addit.   !/•-'  lir.  Is.  3d.  or  lOd. ;  for  each  article  of  luggage  4d. 

Post  Office,  Northampton  St.,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  inner  harbour. 

Sea-Baths,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Marine  Parade. 

Dover,  the  Roman  Dubrae,  and  the  first  of  the  Ciuque  Ports,  is 
finely  situated  on  a  small  bay,  bounded  by  lofty  chalk-cliffs,  which 
are  crowned  with  barracks  and  fortifications.  Near  the  centre  of  the 
bay  the  line  of  cliffs  is  broken  by  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Dour, 
on  the  slopes  of  which  great  part  of  the  town  is  built.  Its  shel- 
tered situation  and  mild  climate  render  Dover  a  favourite  bathing- 
place  and  winter-resort.  The  population,  including  the  garrison,  is 
about  38,500. 


1 6     Route  2.  DOVER.  From  London 

In  tlie  Eoman  and  Saxon  periods  Dover  was  a  place  of  comparative 
insignificance,  but  after  tte  Xorman  Conquest  it  became  a  harbour  and 
fortress  of  considerable  importance.  In  the  reign  of  King  John  (1216) 
Dover  Castle  offered  a  long,  obstinate,  and  successful  resistance,  under 
Hubert  de  Burgh,  to  the  combined  forces  of  the  Dauphin  Louis  and  the  re- 
volted barons.  It  was  off  Dover  that  the  Armada  received  its  first  serious 
check  in  July,  1588.  At  the  opening  of  the  Civil  War  Dover  Castle  was 
garrisoned  by  the  Royalists,  but  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Parliament- 
arians by  stratagem  in  1642.     Charles  II.  landed  here  in  1660. 

On  the  height  to  the  E.  of  the  town  rises  *Dovek  Castle  (375  ft. 
ahove  the  sea),  to  which  visitors  are  freely  admitted,  except  to  the 
underground  works,  for  which  a  special  pass  is  necessary.  This  fast- 
ness, originally  founded  by  the  Romans  and  afterwards  strengthen- 
ed and  enlarged  by  the  Saxons  and  Normans,  is  still  kept  in  repair 
as  a  fortress.  The  remains  of  the  Roman  Pharos  and  the  Church  of 
St.  Mary  de  Castro,  an  almost  unique  specimen  of  a  Roman-British 
edifice  (restored ;  roof  modern) ,  are  interesting.  Splendid  view  of 
the  town  and  harbour ,  especially  from  the  top  of  the  Keep,  built 
by  Henry  II.  (92  ft.  high;  walls  23  ft.  thick).  The  coast  of  France, 
21  M.  distant,  is  visible  in  clear  weather.  The  old  towers  of  the  castle 
bear  the  names  of  the  various  Norman  Governors.  See  'The  Church 
and  Fortress  of  Dover  Castle',  by  Rev.  John  Puckle  (illus.,  Is.). 

Among  the  smaller  objects  of  interest  in  the  Castle  are  'Queen  Eliza- 
beth's Pocket  Pistor  (near  the  edge  of  the  cliff),  a  brass  cannon,  24  ft. 
long,  cast  at  rtrecht  in  1544,  and  presented  by  Charles  V.  to  Henry  VIII.; 
a  Norman  loophole  in  the  groundfioor  of  the  keep;  a  well  in  the  top  of 
the  keep,  300ft.  deep;  and  an  old  clock,  dating  from  1348. 

The  principal  feature  of  the  new  fortifications  connected  with  the 
old  castle  is  Fort  Burgoyne,  which  stands  on  the  hill  to  the  N.W.,  beyond 
the  Deal  road,  and  commands  the  landward  approaches.  —  On  the  cliffs 
to  the  E.  of  the  castle  is  a  large  Convict  Prison. 

The  Haeboub,  of  Dover  consists  of  a  large  outer  tidal  basin  and 
two  spacious  docks.  From  the  W.  side  projects  the  Admiralty  Pier, 
a  favourite  promenade,  whence  the  continental  mail-packets  depart. 
This  huge  structure  is  780  yds.  long  and  forms  one  arm  of  a  har- 
bour of  refuge,  intended  to  be  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  the 
kingdom.  The  fort  at  the  end  mounts  two  81-ton  guns.  The  found- 
ation-stone of  a  commercial  harbour  was  laid  and  a  Promenade  Pier 
built  in  1893. 

The  Western  Heights  are  also  strongly  fortified  and  afford  exten- 
sive views.  They  are  conveniently  reached  from  Snargate  St.  by 
the  so-called  'Shaft',  which  is  ascended  by  a  spiral  staircase  with 
480  steps.  On  the  Heights  are  large  Barracks,  the  foundations  of 
a  Pharos,  and  an  old  circular  church,  known  as  the  Knights  Tem- 
plar Church.  —  Farther  to  the  W.,  separated  from  the  Western 
Heights  by  a  deep  valley ,  is  Shakespeare  Cliff,  rising  sheer  to  a 
height  of  350  ft. ;  it  takes  its  name  from  the  well-known  passage 
in  'King  Lear'  (iv.  6).  —  Still  farther  on  are  the  works  in  connection 
with  the  projected  Channel  Tunnel.  A  vertical  shaft  has  been 
sunk  here  and  the  tunnel  excavated  for  about  2200  yds.  under  the 
sea  in  the  direction  of  the  Admiralty  Pier. 


to  Dover.  BROMLEY.  2.  Route.     17 

The  Maison  Dieu  Hall ,  erected  by  Hubert  de  Burgh  (p.  16) 
ill  the  first  half  of  the  13th  cent,  as  a  pilgrims'  hospital,  has  re- 
cently been  restored,  and  is  now  incorporated  with  the  new  Town 
Hall  in  Biggin  St.,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  near  the  Dour.  The 
modern  stained-glass  windows  illustrate  scenes  in  the  history  of 
Dover.  Adjoining  the  municipal  buildings  are  the  Public  Baths. 
—  The  churches  of  *St.  Mary  and  Old  St.  James  are  both  ancient 
and  exhibit  some  features  of  interest.  In  Strond  St.,  near  the 
Pier,  is  Trinity  Church.  —  Near  the  Priory  Station  (see  p.  32)  are 
some  remains  of  the  old  Benedictine  Priory  of  St.  Martin  (1132"), 
now  incorporated  in  the  buildings  of  Dover  College ;  they  include 
the  Refectory,  a  good  example  of  plain  Norman  work,  and  a  Gate- 
house. The  Museum  (daily,  10-4,  except  Thurs.  and  Sun.),  in 
Market  Square,  contains  antiquities  and  objects  of  natural  history. 

Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  along  the  shore  from  Dover  in  both  di- 
rections, either  westward  to  (6  M.)  Folkestone,  via  the  Shakespeare  Cliff 
(p.  16),  or  eastward  by  St.  Margaret's  Bay  (Granville  Arms),  with  a  fine 
Norman  church,  and  the  South  Foreland  to  (9  M.)  Deal  (comp.  p.  25).  The 
geologist  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  formation  of  the  cliffs. 
The  A'orth  Fall  Footpath,  a  path  leading  through  a  tunnel  from  the  E. 
end  of  the  town  to  the  top  of  the  cliff,  is  closed  when  rifle- shooting  is 
being  practised  in  the  North  Fall  Meadow.  —  Other  walks  may  be  taken 
to  Whilfeld,  3V2  M.  to  the  N.,  with  an  ancient  church  restored  in  1894; 
and  to  St.  Radegund's  Ahhey,  3  M.  to  the  N.W. ;  the  ruins  are  those  of  a 
Prsemonstratensian  foundation  dating  from  the  end  of  the  12th  century.  — 
During  summer  numerous  cheap  excursions  are  arranged  to  Canterbury, 
Hastings,  Ramsgate,  etc.;  also  a  circular  tour  to  Calais,  Boulogne,  and 
Folkestone. 

b.  London,  Chatham,  and  Dover  Railway  via  Canterbury. 

78  M.  Railway  in  2-31/2  hrs.  (fares  the  same  as  by  the  South  Eastern 
Railway,  p.  12).  The  trains  start  from  Victoria,  Holborn  Viaduct,  Jliudgate 
Hill,  and  St.  Paul's  (see  Baedeker^s  London). 

The  line  from  Victoria  unites  with  that  from  Holborn  Viaduct^ 
Ludgate  Hill,  and  St.  PauVs  at  (31/2  ^1-)  Heme  Hill.  The  train 
passes  through  a  long  tunnel  below  the  grounds  of  the  Crystal  Palace 
(see  Baedeker  s  London).    7  M.  Penge;  8^/4  M.  Beckenham. 

103/4  M.  Bromley  (White  Hart;  Bell),  a  town  of  21,685  inhab., 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  Ravensbourne,  derives  its  name  from  the 
broom  that  still  flourishes  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  contains  an  old 
palace  of  the  Bishops  of  Rochester,  now  a  private  residence,  and  a 
college,  or  alms-house,  founded  200  years  ago  for  the  widows  of  cler- 
gymen. In  the  church  is  the  tomb  of  Dr.  Johnson's  wife  ('Tetty'), 
with  a  Latin  inscription  by  her  husband.  A  pleasant  walk  may  be 
taken  to  (3  xM.)  Chislehurst  (p.  12)  and  (6V2  M.)Eltham  (p.  33). 

About  2V2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Bromley  and  1  M.  from  the  railway  (to  the 
right)  is  Hayes  Place,  where  Lord  Chatham  died  (1778)  and  William  Pitt 
(1759-1806)  was  born.  It  was  here  that  Benjamin  Franklin  visited  Lord 
Chatham  in  1775  before  the  latter's  famous  speech  on  the  American  question. 
Visitors  to  Hayes  should  prolong  their  walk  to  (2  M.)  Keston  Common, 
where  there  are  the  remains  of  an  extensive  Roman  settlement,  known 
as  Caetar's  Camp.  In  the  park  of  the  neighbouring  mansion  of  Holwood 
is  the   'Emancipation  Oak\    beneath   which  William  Wilberforce  is   said 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit,  2 


18     Route  2.  ROCHESTER.  From  London 

to  have  announced  to  Pitt  his   intention   of  beginning   his   parliamentary 
agitation  for  the  abolition  of  slaverj'. 

From  Beckenham  onwards  the  line  traverses  the  fair  and  fertile 
county  of  Kent ,  where  the  extensive  Hop  Gardens  soon  become 
one  of  the  characteristic  features  of  the  scenery,  presenting  an  espe- 
cially picturesque  appearance  in  August  and  September,  when 
thousands  of  hop-pickers  are  employed  in  gathering  the  beautiful 
golden  blossoms.  Kent  is  also  famed  for  its  fruit,  especially  for  its 
apples  and  cherries.  The  S.  E.  part  of  the  county,  known  as  the 
Weald  of  Kent,  is  particularly  fertile. 

The  hop-picking  season  is  very  short  and  requires  the  employment 
of  far  more  labour  than  the  local  resources  can  supply.  Large  numbers 
of  men,  women,  and  children  therefore  come  down  from  London  and 
other  towns  to  help,  and  'hopping'  affords  a  much  prized  annual  outing 
to  thousands  of  dwellers  in  the  slums.  The  hops  are  dried  in  the  'oast 
houses',  the  curious,  extinguisher-like  ventilators  (or  cowls)  of  which  are 
so  conspicuous  among  the  gardens.  The  best  gardens  are  round  Maidstone, 
and  the  most  delicate  variety  of  hop  is  the  'golding'  of  E.  Kent.  Hops 
were  introduced  into  England  from  Flanders  about  the  beginning  of  the 
15th  cent,  and  now  occupy  about  55,000  acres  of  English  soil,  nearly  two- 
thirds  of  which  are  in  Kent. 

A  curious  distinction  between  the  'Men  of  Kent',  to  the  W.  of  the 
Medway  (who  claim  the  superiority),  and  the  'Kentish  Men',  to  the  E.  of 
it,  has  been  maintained  down  to  the  present  day,  and  is  generally  re- 
ferred to  the  belief  that  the  former  were  the  original  inhabitants  of  the 
country,  or  to  the  determined  resistance  they  offered  to  William  the 
Conqueror  on  his  march  to  London  after  the  battle  of  Hastings. 

12  M.  Bickley.  —  143/4  M.  St.  Mary  Cray,  with  a  large  paper- 
mill  and  a  Perp.  church  containing  some  good  brasses.  This  is 
one  of  four  contiguous  parishes  taking  their  surname  from  the  small 
river  Cray.  At  St.  PauVs  Cray,  2/4  M.  to  the  N.,  is  an  interesting 
E.E.  church,  with  a  shingle  spire.  —  From  (171/2  M.)  Swanley 
Junction  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the  right  to  (8  M.)  Sevenoaks 
(p.  13)  and  Maidstone  (p.  34).  Within  easy  reach  of  (2OV2  M.)  Far- 
ningham  Road  are  the  interesting  old  churches  oiHorton  Kirhy  (3/4  M. 
to  the  S.E.  ;  E.  E.) ,  Farningham  (Lion  Inn;  IV2  M.  to  the  S.), 
Sutton-at-Hone  (IV4  M.  to  the  N.),  and  Darenth  (2  M.  to  the  N.; 
early-Norman,  with  Roman  bricks).  A  large  Roman  Villa  has  re- 
cently been  discovered  at  Darenth. 

Beyond  Farningham  Road  a  branch-line  diverges  to  (41/2  M.)  Southfleet, 
(6V2  M")  Rosherville,  and  (7  M.)  Gravesend  (see  Baedeker's  London). 

23  M.  Fawkham;  251/0  M.  Meopham,  with  a  large  Decorated 
church  (to  the  left);  27  M.  Sole  Street.  The  castle  and  cathedral  of 
Rochester  now  soon  come  into  view  on  the  right,  beyond  the  Medway. 
—  33  M.  Rochester  Bridge  (Strood).  Strood,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Medway,  is  a  suburb  of  Rochester,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
handsome  iron  bridge,  constructed  in  1850-56  on  the  site  of  a  much 
earlier  bridge  of  stone.    Below  are  the  two  railway-bridges. 

331/2  M.  Rochester  [Crown;  Victoria  ^'  Bull;  King's  Head,  all 
three  in  the  High  St.)  is  a  very  ancient  city,  with  a  pop.  of  26,309. 

Rochester  was  inhabited  successively  by  the  Britons,  under  whom  its 
name  was  Doubris;    by    the  Romans,   who   called   it  Durobrivae ;    by    the 


to  Dover.  ROCHESTER.  2.  Route.     19 

Saxons,  whose  name  for  it,  Hrofesceastre  (perhaps  a  corruption  of  Rufiis?), 
is  the  rugged  prototype  of  its  modern  form;  and  by  the  Normans.  It  was 
made  a  bishop's  see  early  in  the  7th  century.  It  was  at  Rochester  that 
James  II.  embarked  in  disguise  on  his  flight  in  165-8. 

On  crossing  the  bridge  -we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Esplanade., 
from  which  we  enter  the  castle-grounds,  now  laid  out  as  a  public 
garden.  The  present  *Castlb  ,  standing  conspicuously  on  an  emi- 
nence, was  built  in  1126-39  by  William  Corbeil ,  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury.  The  square  Keep,  104  ft.  in  height,  which  now  alone 
remains,  along  with  the  outer  walls,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Norman 
architecture,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  (adm.  3d.). 

To  the  E,  of  the  castle  rises  the  Cathedral,  a  building  of  con- 
siderable interest.  St.  Augustine  founded  a  missionary  church  on 
this  site  about  the  year  600  and  consecrated  the  first  Bishop  of 
Rochester  in  604.  At  the  time  of  tlie  Conquest,  however,  this  church 
was  in  a  completely  ruinous  condition,  and  Gundulf,  the  second 
Norman  bishop,  architect  of  the  White  Tower  at  London,  undertook 
the  erection  of  a  new  church,  which  was  completed  and  consecrated 
in  1130,  Gundulf  also  replaced  the  secular  clergy  of  the  old  founda- 
tion by  a  colony  of  Benedictines.  This  church  was  afterwards  partly 
destroyed  by  fire,  and  the  choir  and  transepts  were  rebuilt  in  the 
E.  E.  style  by  Prior  Wiiliam  de  Hoo  (1201-27),  who  is,  perhaps, 
identical  with  English  William  of  Canterbury  (p.  28).  The  Cathe- 
dral was  restored  in  1825,  in  1871-77,  and  (W.  front  and  towers)  in 
1888-93.  The  internal  length  of  the  Cathedral  is  306  ft.,  breadth 
of  nave  and  choir  68  ft.,  across  the  W.  transepts  120  ft.  In  plan  it 
resembles  Canterbury  Cathedral,  having  double  transepts,  a  raised 
choir,  and  a  spacious  crypt.  The  chief  external  features  are  the  W, 
front  (Norman),  with  its  fine  recessed  doorway;  the  so-called  Gun- 
dulf's  tower,  in  the  angle  formed  by  the  N.W.  transept  and  the 
choir;  and  the  mean  central  tower,  erected  by  Cottingham  in  1825. 
The  figures  of  Henry  I,  and  Queen  Matilda  (or  Henry  II.  and  Queen 
Margaret)  at  the  sides  of  the  W.  doorway  are  two  of  the  oldest 
English  statues  now  extant. 

Interior  (daily  services  at  10  a.m.  and  3  p.m.  in  winter  and  5.30  p.m. 
in  summer;  crypt  and  choir  shown  by  the  verger,  small  fee).  The  Nave 
is  Norman  in  style,  except  the  two  easternmost  bays,  where  the  junction 
between  the  Norman  and  later  work  is  eflected  in  a  way  more  curious 
than  beautiful.  The  triforium  arches  are  elaborately  adorned  with  diaper 
patterns  and  have  the  peculiarity  of  opening  to  the  aisles  as  well  as  to 
the  nave.  The  W.  window  and  the  clerestory  are  Perpendicular.  The 
W. Transepts'  are  in  the  E.  E.  style,  the  N.  being  the  earlier  and  richer. 
In  the  S.  transept  are  the  quaint  monument  of  Richard  Wattx  (see  p,  20) 
and  a  brass  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Charles  Dickens  (d.  1870),  who  lived 
at  Gads  Hill,  near  Rochester  (p."21).  The  chapel  adjoining  this  transept 
on  the  W.  was  built  as  a  Lady  Chapel  in  the  Perp.  period. 

From  the  transepts  we  ascend  by  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  E.  E.  Choik, 
The  statues  on  the  W,  side  of  the  Choir  ScrefiU  were  placed  as  a  memorial 
of  Dean  Scott  (1811-87),  joint-compiler  ofLiddell  and  Scott's  Greek  Lexicon. 
The  stalls  are  new,  but  some  of  the  old  misereres  have  been  preserved. 
The  tiled  pavement  was  constructed  after  old  patterns.  Opposite  the 
modern  bisliop's  throne  is  the  fragment  of  an  old  mural  painting  of  the 
Wheel  of  Fortune.     In  the  N.  Choir  Transept  is  the  tomb  of  St.  William  of 

2* 


20     Route  2.  ROCHESTER.  From  London 

Perth  (13th  cent.),  a  Scottish  baker,  murdered  near  Rochester  when  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  Canterbury  \  this  tomb  afterwards  became  a  frequented  pil- 
grim-resort and  a  source  of  great  wealth  to  the  cathedral.  Adjacent  is 
the  tomb  of  Bishop  Walter  de  Merton  (d.  1277),  founder  of  Merton  College, 
Oxford  (p.  230).  To  the  E.  of  this  transept  is  Bishop  Warner's  Chapel,  in 
the  archway  between  which  and  the  presbytery  is  the  beautiful  effigy  of 
Bishop  John  de  Sheppey  (14th  cent.),  discovered  behind  the  masonry  here  and 
repainted  in  1825.  The  windows  in  the  S.  Choir  Transept  are  memorials 
of  Gen.  Gordon,  Capt.  Gill  (Professor  Palmer's  companion  in  his  ill-fated 
expedition  to  the  Sinaitic  Desert  in  1S82),  and  other  officers  of  the  Eoyal 
Engineers.  A  plain  stone  coffin  in  the  Sacrarium ,  or  E.  end  of  the 
choir,  is  shown  as  that  of  Bishop  Gnndulf  (p.  19).  The  great  glory  of 
the  choir,  however,  is  the  beautiful  Dec.  "Doorway  in  the  S.  E.  angle, 
leading  to  the  Chaptee  House  (copy  in  the  Crystal  Palace;  s&e  Baedekers 
London).  The  figures  at  the  side  represent  the  Synagogue  and  the  Church; 
originally  both  were  female  figures,  but  the  latter  was  mistakenly  restored 
as  a  bishop  in  1S30.     The  Chapter  House  contains  the  Library. 

The  *Crtpt,  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps  adjoining  St.  Edmund's  Chapel, 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  choir,  is^  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  England. 
The  W.  end  belonged  to  Bishop  Gundulf  s  church  and  is  very  plain  in  style. 

A  fragment  of  the  old  Priory  of  St.  Andrew,  coeval  with  the 
Cathedral,  is  preserved  in  the  garden  of  the  Deanery,  to  the  E. 
Three  of  the  old  o:ateways  of  the  cathedral-precincts  still  remain, 
the  most  important  of  which  is  the  Prior  s  Gate  to  the  S. 

Turning  to  the  S.  (left)  on  leaving  the  Cathedral,  passing 
through  the  Prior's  Gate  [see  above),  and  again  turning  to  the  left, 
we  have  to  the  right  the  wall  enclosing  the  old  Grammar  School, 
founded  hy  Henry  VIII.  We  next  turn  to  the  right  and  pass 
through  a  small  gate  into  the  Vines  Recreation  Ground,  formerly  a 
vineyard  attached  to  the  priory.  On  the  N.  (left)  side  of  this  are 
some  remains  of  the  old  city-wall,  and  at  its  S.E.  end  is  Restoration 
House,  a  picturesque  redhrick  mansion  with  many  windows,  where 
Charles  II.  passed  a  night  on  his  return  to  England  in  May,  1660. 

From  this  point  Crow  Lane  leads  to  the  left  to  Eastgate, 
reaching  it  a  little  to  the  left  of  Eastgate  House,  an  interesting 
Elizabethan  structure,  about  to  be  converted  into  a  public  library 
and  museum.  It  has  been  identified  with  the  'Nun's  House'  in 
'Edwin  Drood".  Proceeding  to  the  W,  along  the  High  Street  we 
soon  pass  (on  the  right)  the  Watts'  Charity  House,  founded  in  1579 
by  Richard  Watts  for  'six  poor  travellers,  not  being  rogues  or 
proctors',  and  described  in  Dickens's  'Tale  of  the  Seven  Poor  Trav- 
ellers'. —  On  the  other  side  of  High  St.,  nearer  the  bridge,  Is 
the  old  Bull  Inn  (now  Victoria  ^^  BuW),  extolled  by  Mr.  Alfred 
Jingle  ('good  house -nice  beds').  —  Satis  House,  the  residence  of 
Richard  Watts,  situated  to  the  S.  of  the  castle,  is  said  to  owe  its 
name  to  the  gracious  praise  of  its  accommodation  by  Queen  Eliza- 
beth,  who  stayed  here  on  her  visit  to  Rochester;  the  house  has, 
however,  since  been  rebuilt. 

In  summer  pleasant  steamboat- excursions  on  the  Medway  (pier  just 
above  the  bridge)  mav  be  made  from  Rochester  to  (11  M.)  Sheerness  (p.  22) 
and  (IS  31.)  Southend  (p.  459),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  affording  good 
views  of  Cpnor  Castle,  Chatham  Dockyards,  etc.  Small  boats  may  be 
hired  at  the  Esplanade;    charge  to  (3  M".)  Upnor  Castle  (p.  22),  about  3s. 


to  Dover.  CHATHAM.  2.  Route.     21 

About  21/2  M.  to  the  N.  W.  of  Strood,  on  the  road  to  Gravesend,  is 
Gad's  Hill  (Talstafif  Inn),  the  scene  of  FalstafTs  encounter  with  the  'men 
in  buckram'  (Henry  IV.,  Part  I.,  ii.  4)  and  also  mentioned  by  Chaucer. 
It  commands  an  extensive  view.  Gad's  Hill  Place,  the  residence  of  Charles 
Dickens  (who  died  here  in  1870),  is  an  old-fashioned  red-brick  house  near 
the  inn.  In  the  'Wilderness',  reached  by  a  tunnel  below  the  road,  are 
some  magnificent  cedars.  About  4  M.  to  the  K.  are  the  ruins  of  Cooling 
Castle,  the  home  of  Sir  John  Oldcastle ,  the  supposed  prototype  of  Fal- 
stafiF;  Cooling  Marshes  are  the  scene  of  the  opening  incidents  in  Dickens's 
'Great  Expectations'. 

A  very  favourite  excursion  from  Rochester  is  that  to  Cobham  Hall, 
which  lies  about  5  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  town  and  IV2  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Sole  Street  station  (p.  18).  Walkers  ascend  Strood  Hill  and  turn  to  the 
left  at  the  top,  into  Woodstock  Road;  at  the  end  of  W^oodstock  Road  the 
lield-path  to  Cobham  diverges  to  the  right.  *Cobham  Hall,  the  fine  seat 
of  the  Earl  of  Darnley,  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  magnificent  park,  7  M.  in 
circumference.  (Tickets  of  admission  to  the  house,  which  is  open  to 
visitors  on  Fridays  from  11  to  4  only,  may  be  obtained  from  Caddel  &  Son, 
1  King  Street,  Gravesend,  from  Wildish,  49  High  Street,  Rochester,  or  from 
C.  Snoad,  Cobham,  price  is.  •,  the  proceeds  are  devoted  to  charitable  pur- 
poses.) The  central  portion  of  this  fine  mansion  was  built  by  Jnigo  Jones 
(d.  1653) ;  the  wings  date  from  the  16th  century.  The  interior  was  restored 
during  the  present  century.  The  fine  collection  of  pictures  includes  a 
■^Portrait  of  Ariosto  and  'Europa  and  the  Bull  by  Titian,  *Tomyris  with 
the  head  of  Cyrus  by  Rubens,  and  examples  of  Van  Dyck,  Lely,  Kneller, 
etc.  —  The  church  of  the  village  of  Cobham,  at  the  entrance  to  the  park, 
is  celebrated  for  its  splendid  array  of  brasses  (14-16th  cent.).  The  village 
inn  is  the  'Leather  Bottel',  in  which  Mr,  Tracy  Tupman  sought  solitude 
and  solace  after  the  unhappy  issue  of  his  affaire  de  coeur.  Matthew  Arnold 
lived  at  Pains  Hill  Cottage  from  1873  till  his  death  in  1888. 

A  good  view  is  obtained  from  *  Windmill  Hill,  the  path  to  the  top 
of  which  is  reached  by  crossing  the  bridge,  turning  to  the  right,  passing 
the  S.  E.  Railway  Station  on  the  left,    and  crossing  the  canal  locks, 

"Walkers  may  reach  Maidstone  (p.  34),  8  M.  to  the  S.,  by  a  road  lead- 
ing through  luxuriant  hop-gardens  (railway,  see  R.  3).  About  41/2  M.  from 
Rochester  we  pass  Kits  Cot/j  House  (p.  34);  those  who  do  not  dread  a 
slight  detour  should  descend  thence  to  (IV2  M.)  Aylesford  (p.  33)  and  follow 
the  Medway  to  (3  M.)  Maidstone. 

34  M.  Chatham  (Sun,  close  to  the  pier;  Mitre;  Rail.  Refresh- 
ment Rooms)  is  continuous  with  Rochester,  though  its  bustling  and 
noisy  streets  form  a  striking  contrast  to  the  old-fashioned  quiet  of 
the  latter.  It  contains  59,400  inhah.,  and  is  one  of  the  principal 
naval  arsenals  and  military  stations  in  Great  Britain.  Much  of  the 
town  is  irregularly  and  badly  built.  The  'Lines'  which  enclose  the 
dockyard  and  military  establishments  are  often  the  scene  of  mili- 
tary manoeuvres,  reviews,  and  sham-fights,  but  for  defensive  pur- 
poses have  been  superseded  by  a  series  of  outlying  detached  forts. 
There  are  also  strong  forts  on  the  Medway.  In  1667  the  Dutch  fleet 
under  De  Ruyter  ascended  the  Medway  as  far  as  Chatham,  doing, 
however,  no  harm  to  the  town.  A  Statue  of  Lieut.  Waghorn 
(1800-1850),  one  of  the  chief  advocates  and  promoters  of  the  over- 
land route  to  India,  a  native  of  Chatham,  was  erected  here  in  1888. 

The  *  Royal  Dockyard  (^didm.  10-1.30;  special  permission  neces- 
sary for  the  ropery,  machine-shops,  and  foundries;  foreigners  only 
through  their  ambassadors),  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  extends 
along    the    Medway    for   nearly    3  M.,    and   embraces   an   area   of 


22     Route  2.  CHATHAM.  From  London 

about  500  acres.  The  wet-docks,  graving-docks,  building-slips, 
wharves,  etc.,  are  all  on  a  most  extensive  scale,  one  immense  basin 
having  a  width  of  800  ft.  and  a  quay  frontage  of  6000  ft.  The 
largest  vessels  in  the  navy  can  be  built  and  fully  equipped  here. 
The  metal  mill,  for  making  copper  sheets,  bolts,  etc.,  is  particularly 
interesting.  From  3000  to  5000  workmen  are  employed  in  the 
dockyard,  according  to  the  business  in  hand.  The  Melville  Hospital 
is  a  huge  establishment  for  sailors  and  marines.  The  barracks  for 
the  Royal  Marines  here  are  very  spacious. 

The  military  features  of  Chatham  are  nearly  as  conspicuous  as 
the  naval.  It  is  the  depot  for  a  large  number  of  infantry  regiments, 
and  about  6000  soldiers  are  usually  in  quarters  here.  The  artillery 
barracks  are  very  extensive.  Chatham  is  also  the  headquarters  of  the 
Royal  Engineers,  with  the  School  of  Military  Engineering.  In  front 
of  the  Royal  Engineers'  Institute  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Gen.  Gordon 
(d.  1885),  seated  on  a  camel,  by  E.  Onslow  Ford,  erected  in  1890. 
Troops  bound  for  India  usually  embark  at  Chatham. 

The  best  view  of  Chatham  is  obtained  from  Fort  Pitt,  above  the 
railway-station,  which  contains  a  large  military  hospital  and  an  interest- 
ing museum.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Medway,  farther  down,  stands 
Upnor  Castle,  built  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  and  afterwards  used  as  a 
powder-magazine. 

Two  tunnels.  35^/2  ^'  New  Brompton.  To  the  left  are  seen 
the  Brompton  Lines.  On  the  same  side  is  GiLlingham,  with  an  old 
hall  of  a  palace  which  once  belonged  to  the  Archbishops  of  Canter- 
bury, now  used  as  a  barn,  and  a  handsome  Perp.  church,  with  a 
very  fine  E.  window.  Gillingham  is  the  headquarters  of  the  re- 
ligious sect  known  as  Jezreelites  or  the  New  and  Latter  House  of 
Israel,  which  has  built  a  'temple'  and  large  schools  here.  Gilling- 
ham Fort  dates  from  the  time  of  Charles  I.  This  district  is  famous 
for  its  cherry-orchards.  —  39  M.  Rainham ;  IV2  M.  to  the  N.E.  is 
Vpchurch,  known  for  its  deposits  of  Roman  pottery.  The  line  now 
runs  parallel  with  the  highroad ,  the  Roman  Watling  Street.  — 
41 '/qM.  Newington,  with  a  church  containing  mediaeval  brasses. 
—  441/2  M.  Sittingbourne  (Bull ;  Lion ;  Rail.  Refreshment  Rooms), 
a  brick-making  town,  formerly  visited  by  pilgrims  on  their  way  to 
Canterbury  and  by  kings  on  their  way  to  the  Continent. 

Sittingbourne  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (41/2  M.)  Queenborough, 
the  starting-point  of  the  steamers  to  Flushing,  and  (7  M.)  Sheerness  (Foun- 
tain, well  spoken  of;  Wellington),  an  uninteresting  town  (13,850  inhab.) 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Medway,  with  strong  fortifications  and  a  dockyard 
established  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  Queenborough  was  so  named  in 
honour  of  Queen  Philippa,  wife  of  Edward  III.,  but  a  castle  built  here 
by  that  monarch  has  vanished.  A  walk  may  be  taken  along  the  cliffs 
from  Sheerness  to  (3  M.)  Minster-in-Sheppeii .  with  the  church  of  SS.  Mary 
and  Saxburga,  founded  about  664  and  claiming  to  be  the  oldest  abbey 
church  in  England.  The  building,  restored  in  the  12th,  14th,  and  15th  cent, 
and  finally  in  1881,  still  retains  some  Saxun  features.  It  contains  several 
interesting  tombs,  including  that  of  Sir  Robert  Shurland,  whose  story  has 
been  commemorated  in  the  'Ingoldsby  Legends'  ('Grey  Dolphin'). 

52  M.  Faversham,  pronounced  Fevversham  (Ship^  Rail.  Rfmt. 


to  Dover.  MARGATE.  2.  Route.     23 

Rooms)^  an  ancient  town  with  10,500  inhab. ,  was  once  the  seat 
of  a  famous  abbey,  where  King  Stephen,  his  wife  Matilda,  and  his 
son  Eustace  were  buried.  The  parish-church  is  a  fine  E.  E.  build- 
ing, with  curious  old  paintings  and  carvings.  Faversham  is  the 
junction  of  the  branch-line  to  Margate  and  Ramsgate  (see  below). 


From  Faversham  to  Margate,  22  M.,  railway  in  ^/^  hr.  (fares 
3s.  8d.,  28.  4d.,  is.  lOd.);  TO  Ramsgate,  27  M.,  in  1  hr.  (fares 
As.  6d.,  2s.  lOd.,  2s.  3d.}.  Fares  from  London  to  Margate  or  Rams- 
gate 15s.,  lOs.  6d.,  68.  1d.\  return  22s.  6cZ.,  16s.,  10s.;  special 
cheap  fares  in  summer.  —  This  line  runs  to  the  E.  along  the 
coast.  6V2  M.  Whitstable  (Bear  and  Key),  celebrated  for  its  'nat- 
ives', considered  the  finest  oysters  in  England.  —  10 V2  ^I-  Heme 
Bay  (Dolphin;  Pier;  Cunnaught),  a  small  watering-place  with  two 
piers  and  a  fine  esplanade.  Steamers  ply  hence  to  London  in  sum- 
mer and  a  coach  runs  to  (7^  ^  M.)  Canterbury  (p.  26). 

An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  E.  along  the  cliffs  to  (.351.)  Reculver 
(KiH(/  Ethelbert  Inn),  the  Roman  Eegulbium,  cue  of  the  fortresses  erected 
to  defend  the  channel  then  separating  the  district  known  as  the  Isie  of 
Thanet  from  the  mainland.  Some  remains  of  the  castrum  still  exist.  King 
Ethelbert  afterwards  had  a  palace  here,  and  still  later  a  Christian  church 
rose  on  its  site.  The  church  was  taken  down  in  1804,  but  its  two  towers, 
known  as  'The  Sisters'  and  originally  erected,  according  to  tradition,  by 
an  Abbess  of  Faversham,  to  commemorate  the  escape  of  herself  and  her 
sister  from  drowning,  were  restored  by  the  Trinity  Board  as  a  landmark 
for  seamen.     The  sea  is  here  steadily  encroaching  on  the  land. 

Both  (187-2  M.)  Birchington  (Bungalow  Hotel;  Sea  View),  with 
the  grave  of  Dante  Gabriel  Rossetti  (d.  1882 ;  memorial  window  in 
the  church),  and  (20  M.)  Westgate-on-Sea  {Be&ch  Konse  ]  AVest- 
cliffe;  St.  Mildred's)  are  also  frequented  for  sea-bathing. 

22  M.  Margate  (  York;  Cliftonville ;  Metropole;  Queen's^  R.  &  A. 
4s.,  B.  2s.,  D.  5s.;  Hlyhcliffe;  Nayland  Rock;  White  Hart;  numer- 
ous private  hotels,  boarding-houses,  and  lodgings;  Railway  Re- 
freshment Rooms).,  one  of  the  most  popular,  though  not  one  of 
the  most  fashionable  watering-places  in  England,  is  situated  on  the 
N.  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Thanet.  Pop.  18,400.  Its  sandy  beach  is 
admirably  adapted  for  bathers,  and  the  Jetty  (1240  ft.  long),  the 
Pier  (900  ft.),  and  the  Marine  Parade  afford  excellent  promenades. 
Its  other  attractions  include  a  Hall-by-the-Sea  (concerts),  a  Theatre, 
a  Marine  Palace  and  Baths^  a  Grotto  (adm.  6d.),  etc.  On  Saturdays 
and  Sundays,  in  the  season,  both  Margate  and  Ramsgate  (p.  24) 
are  iincomfortably  crowded  with  excursionists  from  London,  brought 
in  thousands  by  railway  and  steamer.  The  Church  of  St.  John  is 
a  Norman  edifice  restored.  On  the  cliffs  a  little  to  the  W.  is  the 
Royal  Sea-Bathing  Infirmary,  founded  in  1791. 

In  summer  steamers  ply  daily  from  Marinate  to  Ramsgate  and  to  Lon- 
don (return-fare  Ss.  6t/.),  and  thrice  weekly  to  Boulogne  and  to  Ottemi. 
Coaches  ply  to  (4V'2  M.)  Ramsgate  and  (16  M.)  Canterbury  (p.  26),  while 
numerous  special  trains  (S.  K.  R.)  run  to  Canterbury  in  time  for  the 
daily  services.     The  walk  to  Ramsgate   along  the  cliffs  (about  6  M.)  is  a 


24     Route  2.  RAMSGATE.  From  London 

very  pleasant  one.  On  the  way  we  pass  (3  M.)  Kingsgate  (Inn),  so  named 
because  Charles  11.  and  the  Duke  of  York  landed  here  in  1683,  with  a 
modern  castle.  About  1/2  BI.  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  North  Foreland^  the 
Promontorium  Acantium  of  the  Romans,  off  which  the  English  fleet  was 
defeated  by  the  Dutch  in  1666.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  Lighthouse 
(small  gratuity).  Broadstairs  (see  below)  is  IV4  M.  farther  on.  —  Other 
walks  may  be  taken  to  the  old  mansion  of  Dandelion  and  the  village  of 
Oavlinge,  2  M.  to  the  W. ;  to  Westgate  (p.  23)  •■,  to  Quex,  Acol,  Minster 
(51/2  M.),  Salmstone  Grange  (3/4  M.),  etc. 

The  railway  now  crosses  the  isthmus,  at  some  distance  from 
the  sea,  reaching  the  coast  again  at  (25  M.)  Broadstairs  (Grand ; 
Albion;  Balmoral),  a  quieter  watering-place  than  Ramsgate  or 
Margate,  named  from  the  breadth  of  its  'stair',  or  gap  in  the  cliffs, 
affording  access  to  the  sea.  The  old  flint  arch  in  Harbour  St.,  called 
York  Gate,  was  erected  to  protect  this  passage.  Broadstairs  was  a 
favourite  resort  of  George  Eliot  and  Charles  Dickens ;  the  residence 
of  the  latter  is  named  Bleak  House.  About  1  M.  inland  is  the 
pretty  little  village  of  St.  Peter  s,  containing  a  church  of  the  12th 
cent.,  with  a  fine  flint  tower  added  in  the  16th  century.  —  Tunnel. 

27  M.  Ramsgate  C^ Granville,  East  Cliff,  with  good  Turkish 
and  other  baths,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.  6d.,  B.  2s.,  D.  5s.  Qd.-,  Al- 
bion; Royal;  Royal  Oak;  Bull;  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms),  a 
bathing-place  and  seaport  with  24,680  inhab.,  which  maybe  de- 
scribed as  a  somewhat  less  Cockneyfied  edition  of  Margate.  In  the 
height  of  the  season  (July  and  Aug.),  however,  it  is  overrun  by 
nearly  as  many  excursionists  ,  and  George  Eliot  calls  it  'a  strip  of 
London  come  out  for  an  airing'.  The  N.  sands,  extending  towards 
Broadstairs,  are  beautifully  firm  and  smooth.  The  port  is  formed 
by  two  stone  piers,  with  a  joint  length  of  3000  ft.,  and  is  of  great 
importance  as  a  harbour  of  refuge.  There  is  also  an  iron  promen- 
ade-pier (adm.  2cZ.).  The  Roman  Catholic  church  of  *St.  Augustine, 
on  the  W.  cliff,  is  perhaps,  the  masterpiece  of  the  elder  Pugin, 
whose  house,  tne  Grange,  also  designed  by  him,  is  close  by.  The 
Jewish  Synagogue  and  College  were  built  by  Sir  Moses  Monteflore. 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Ramsgate  is  Pegwell  Bay  (Inns),  famous 
for  picnics  and  shrimps.  It  may  he  reached  either  on  foot  or  by  an 
excursion-brake.  Ehhsfleet,  near  the  centre  of  the  bay  and  about  3  M. 
from  Ramsgate,  was  the  actual  landing-place  (memorial  cross)  of  St. 
Augustine   and   his   monks,    and  traditionally  that   of  Hengist  and  Horsa. 

Steamers  ply  regularly  in  summer  from  Ramsgate  to  London,  Margate, 
Deal,  and  Dover,  and  coaches  and  brakes  run  to  Margate,  (17  M.)  Canter- 
bury, Pegwell  Bay,  Richborough  (p.  25),  etc.  Special  trains  run  to  Canter- 
bury in  summer,  in  time  for  the  daily  services  in  the  cathedral.  — 
The  dangerous  sandbanks  called  the  Goodwin  Sands,  on  which  several 
ships  are  still  lost  every  year  in  spite  of  the  light-ships,  lie  about  7  M. 
from  Ramsgate  and  may  be  visited  by  sailing-boat.  At  low  water  the 
sands  become  quite  firm,  and  cricket-matches  are  sometimes  played  on 
them.  According  to  tradition  these  sands  were  once  a  fertile  island,  with 
a  mansion  belonging  to  Earl  Goodwin,  which  totally  disappeared  during  a 
tremendous  gale,  the  funds  intended  to  maintain  the  sea-wall  having 
been  diverted  to  build  Tenterden  church  (p.  41).  See  ^Memorials  of  the 
Goodwin  Sands\  by  A.  B.  Gattie  (1890). 

From  Ramsgate  to  Deal,  15  M.,  railway  (S.  E.  R.)  in  ^y^hr.  (fares  2s.  2(i., 
Is.  bd.,is.  id.).  — The  first  station  is  (1 M.)  St.  Lawrence  (for  Pegwell  Bay)  and 


to  Dover,  SANDWICH.  2.  Route.     25 

tLe  next  (4M.)  Mi»ster-in-Thanet  (Kail.  Rfnit.  Rooms),  where  the  Deal  line 
diverges  to  the  ri-iht  from  that  to  Canterbury  (see  p.  32).  The  handsome 
parish-church  of  Minster  (St.  Mary's),  with  a  Norman  nave  and  E.E.  chancel 
and  transepts,  contains  some  interesting  old  stalls  and  miserere  carvings.  The 
nunnery  of  Minster,  founded  by  King  Egbert  of  Kent  in  the  8th  cent,  in 
expiation  of  the  murder  of  his  cousins,  was  at  one  time  of  considerable 
importance.     The  high  ground  above  Minster  affords  a  splendid  *View. 

Soon  after  leaving  Minster  the  train  crosses  the  Slour  and  passes 
*B.ichborough  (to  the  right),  the  Roman  fortress  of  Butupiae,  constructed 
to  command  the  S.  entrance  of  the  channel ,  the  N.  end  of  which  was 
guarded  by  Regulbium  (p.  23),  and  the  principal  landing-place  of  the 
Roman  troops  from  Gaul.  Incredible  as  it  now  seems ,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  Richborough  was  formerly  close  to  the  sea,  and  that  a  broad  chan- 
nel, forming  the  regular  water-route  from  Northern  France  to  London, 
extended  from  Sandwich  to  Reculver.  Ebbstleet  (p.  24)  also  is  now  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  sea.  The  deep  channel  made  by  the  Stour 
in  the  otherwise  shallow  Pegwell  Bay  is  a  relic  of  this  ancient  water- 
way. The  remains  at  Richborough  are  among  the  most  interesting  sur- 
vivals of  the  Roman  period  in  Britain  and  should  certainly  be  visited 
either  from  Ramsgate  (5  M.)  or  Sandwich  (2  M.),  The  best-preserved  por- 
tion is  the  N.  wall  of  the  fortress,  460  ft.  in  length.  Near  the  N.E.  corner 
of  the  enclosure  is  ^St.  Augustine  s  Cross\  a  cruciform  basement  of  rubble, 
resting  on  foundations  of  solid  masonry  and  now  believed  to  have  support- 
ed a  lighthouse.  Many  thousands  of  Roman  coins  have  been  found  at 
Richborough,  and  also  Saxon  coins  and  other  relics. 

9  M.  Sandwich  (Bell;  King^s  Head;  Fleur-de-Lis),  one  of  the  oldest 
of  the  Cinque  Ports  (p.  40),  was  formerly  one  of  the  most  important  har- 
bours and  naval  stations  on  the  S.  coast,  described  in  the  11th  cent,  as 
'•omnium  Anglorum  portuum  famosissiTnus\  but  it  is  now  2  M.  from  the 
sea  in  a  direct  line,  and  accessible  only  by  small  river-craft.  The  singular 
cognisance  of  the  Cinque  Ports,  a  half-lion  and  a  half-boat,  is  still  every- 
where visible  at  Sandwich.  It  was  surrounded  by  walls,  the  site  of  which 
is  now  occupied  by  a  public  promenade;  one  of  the  old  gates,  the  Fisher 
Gate,  and  a  Tudor  tower,  called  the  Barbican,  still  exist.  A  colony  of 
Flemish  artizans  settled  here  in  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and  have 
left  their  mark  in  the  names  of  the  present  inhabitants.  The  most  inter- 
esting buildings  are  Si.  ClemenCs  Church,  with  its  Norman  tower;  the  ^os- 
pital  of  St.  Bartholomew,  of  the  12th  cent.;  the  Orammar  School,  1564; 
and  St.  Thomas  s  Hospital,  founded  in  1392  but  rebuilt  in  1864.  Queen 
Elizabeth  visited  the  town  in  1572,  and  the  house  she  occupied  is  pointed 
out  in  Strand  Street.     To  the  S.E.  of  Sandwich  are  excellent  goHing-links. 

15  M.  Deal  (Victoria;  Royal;  Black  Horse;  Walmer  Castle;  Beach  House 
Temperance),  another  of  the  Cinque  Ports,  is  also  frequented  for  sea-bathing 
and  golfing.  Deal  Castle,  now  the  residence  of  Lord  Herschell ,  was 
built  by  Henry  VIII.,  like  those  of  Sandown  and  Walmer,  as  a  coast  defence. 
Sandown  Castle,  where  Col.  Hutchinson,  the  Parliamentary  leader  (p.  438), 
died  in  1664,  has  been  demolished;  it  stood  at  the  N.  end  of  the  town.  The 
'Downs",  between  the  Goodwin  Sands  (p.  24)  and  the  mainland,  form  an  ex- 
cellent harbour  of  refuge  in  stormy  weather;  but  the  Deal  boatmen  have 
still  no  lack  of  opportunity  of  displaying  the  courage  and  skill  in  aiding 
distressed  mariners  for  which  they  have  so  long  been  famous.  On  the  S. 
Deal  is  adjoined  by  Walmer,  with  Walmer  Castle,  the  official  residence 
of  the  Lord  Warden  of  the  Cinque  Ports.  The  Duke  of  Wellington  died 
here  in  1852,  and  the  rooms  occupied  by  him  (various  relics),  as  well  as 
that  in  which  William  Pitt,  another  Lord  Warden,  held  consultation  with 
Nelson,  are  shown  in  the  absence  of  the  present  Warden,  the  Marquis 
of  Salisbury.  Loicer  Walmer  is  an  important  military  depot,  with  large 
barracks  and  a  naval  hospital.  The  low  shore  near  Deal  is  generally 
believed  to  have  been  the  first  landing-place  of  Julius  Ctesar  in  Britain, 
—  Deal  is  connected  with  (9  M.)  Dover  (p.  15)  by  a  joint  line  of  the  S. 
E.  R.  and  L.  C.  D.  R. ;  but  fair  walkers  will  tind  it  pleasant  to  go  by  the 
cliffs,  passing  Kingsdown,  St.  Margaret  s  Bay  (p.  17),  and  the  South  Fore- 
land Lighthouses. 


26     Route  2.  CANTERBURY.  From  London 

Continuation  of  Main  Line.  Beyond  Faversham  the  train 
turns  to  the  S.  E.,  passes  (551/2  M.)  Selling,  and  soon  reaches  — 

62  M.  Canterbury  (County  Hotel,  new,  well  spoken  of;  Foun- 
tain^ R.  &  A.  4a.  6d.,  B.  2s.  6d. ;  Rose;  Fleur-de-Lys ;  Railway 
Refreshment  Rooms) ,  the  ecclesiastical  metropolis  of  England, 
containing  23,000  inhabitants,  and  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Stour, 
which  runs  through  it  in  two  main  branches.  It  is  an  ancient  city, 
with  numerous  quaint  old  houses ,  and  has  been  the  seat  of  an 
archbishop  since  the  6th  century.  St.  Augustine  was  appointed 
Archbishop  of  All  England,  but  Archbp.  Theodore  (668-693)  was 
the  first  who  obtained  the  practical  recognition  of  his  primacy  from 
the  English  bishops  ,  and  it  was  not  till  after  the  murder  of 
Thomas  Becket  (IITOJ  that  Canterbury  became  the  undisputed 
centre  of  the  religious  life  of  England.  The  archbishop  of  York 
bears  the  title  Primate  of  England  (comp.  p.  413 ). 

The  site  of  Canterbury  was  occupied  in  pre-Roman  times  by  the  Brit- 
ish village  of  Durwhern  Cdwr\  water) ,  which  the  Romans  converted  into 
one  of  the  first  military  stations  on  the  highroad  to  London,  Latinizing 
the  name  as  Durovernum.  When  the  Saxons  or  Jxites  invaded  England 
they  named  it  Cantwarabyrig^  or  burgh  of  the  men  of  Kent,  whence  its 
present  name  is  derived.  Towards  the  end  of  the  6th  cent.  Queen  Bertha 
found  a  .small  Christian  church  on  St.  Martin's  Hill,  and  in  A.D.  597 
St.  Augustine  arrived  here  from  Rome  to  convert  heathen  England.  King 
Ethelbert  received  him  with  great  friendliness,  and  embraced  Christianity 
with  10,000  of  his  people,  while  Augustine  became  the  first  Archbishop 
of  Canterbury.  The  subsequent  history  of  Canterbury  merges,  through 
the  archbishops,  to  a  great  extent  in  that  of  the  countrv  at  large.  The 
names  of  Dunstan  (960-988),  Lanfranc  (1070-89),  Anselm  (1093-1109),  Thomas 
Becket  (1162-70),  Stephen  Langton  (1207-29),  Cranmer  (1533-56),  Pole 
(1556-59),  Laud  (1633-60),  and  many  others  are  inseparably  connected  with 
English  political  and  social  history.  Since  the  Revolution,  however,  the 
attention  of  the  primates  has  been  more  strictly  confined  to  ecclesiastic- 
al affairs.  —  The  present  archbishop  is  the  Most  Rev.  Frederick  Teniph. 
D.  D.,  created  in  1896.  The  income  of  the  see  is  15,000J.  The  archbishops 
have  no  official  residence  at  Canterbury. 

The  Cathedral  lies  near  the  middle  of  the  town,  about  V2M'  ^^ova 
each  of  the  railway-stations.  Emerging  from  the  London,  Chatham, 
^'  Dover  Station,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  we  see  in  front  of 
us  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  Dane  John  (Donjon),  bounded  on 
one  side  by  part  of  the  old  city-wall ;  the  Dane  John  itself  is  a 
tumulus  80  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  an  obelisk  and  commanding 
a  good  view.  We  turn  to  the  left  and  then  enter  Castle  St.  to  the 
right ,  where  the  Norman  keep  of  the  Castle ,  now  used  as  gas- 
works, rises  on  the  left.  (At  the  back  of  the  Castle,  on  the  river 
Stour,  stands  St.  Mildred's  Church,  containing  some  Roman  work.) 
At  the  end  of  Castle  St.  we  cross  Watling  Street  (p.  22),  which 
runs  through  Canterbury,  and  then  follow  St.  Margaret's  St.,  pass- 
ing St.  Margarets  Church ,  to  High  Street,  which  we  reach  oppo- 
site Mercery  Lane,  leading  to  the  Cathedral. 

The  South  Eastern  Station  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  We 
first  follow  Station  St.  to  the  right  for  about  100  yds.,  to  the 
point  where  it  joins  the  line  of  streets  leading  straight  (to  the  left) 


CAiWTERBUKY      QATHEORAL, 


to  Dover,  CANTERBURY.  2.  Route.     27 

to  High  Street.  We  may  first,  however ,  follow  St.  Dunstan  St. 
to  the  right,  which  leads  in  3  min.  to  St.  Dunstari's  Church,  an 
edifice  of  the  14th  cent.,  with  a  square  and  a  semicircular  tower. 
It  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  Koper  family,  in  which  the  head 
of  Sir  Thomas  More  (d.  1535)  is  said  to  lie,  placed  here  by  his 
daughter,  Margaret  Roper.  On  the  other  side  of  the  street  is  the 
gateway  of  the  Ropers'  mansion.  Returning  to  the  end  of  Station 
St.,  we  now  follow  the  street  called  Westgate  "Without  to  the  West 
Gate^  a  handsome  embattled  structure,  built  at  the  end  of  the  14th 
cent,  on  the  site  of  a  more  ancient  one,  and  the  only  city-gate  now 
remaining.  To  the  left,  just  outside  the  gate,  is  the  quaint  little 
Falstaff  Inn  ,  with  its  sign  hung  from  an  iron  standard.  Just 
inside  the  gate,  to  the  right,  is  the  venerable-looking  Church 
of  the  Holy  Cross  (rebuilt  at  the  same  time  as  the  gate),  containing 
an  ancient  font,  an  old  panelled  ceiling  (chancel),  and  some  'mi- 
serere' carvings.  A  little  farther  on  we  cross  the  Stour  and  enter 
the  High  Street,  in  which,  immediately  to  the  right,  is  St.  Bar- 
tholomew's Hospital ,  originally  erected  by  Thomas  Becket  for  the 
accommodation  of  poor  pilgrims  (visitors  admitted).  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  street,  farther  on,  is  the  Guildhall,  which  contains 
some  ancient  arms  and  portraits  of  local  notabilities.  In  Guild- 
hall St.,  here  diverging  to  the  left,  is  the  Museum  (open  10-11, 
free),  with  interesting  collections  of  Roman  and  Anglo-Saxon  anti- 
quities, natural  history,  and  geology.  We  have  now  again  reached 
Mercery  Lane  (see  p.  2B),  so  called  because  it  used  to  be  devoted 
to  the  sale  of  small  wares  to  the  pilgrims  (medallions  of  St.  Thomas, 
phials  of  holy  water,  etc.).  At  the  S.  W.  (left)  corner  stood  the 
Chequers  Inn,  the  regular  hostelry  of  the  pilgrims  (comp.  Chau- 
cers  'Canterbury  Tales');  some  remains  of  the  old  inn  may  be  traced 
in  the  court -yard  entered  from  High  Street.  A  monument  to 
Christopher  Marlowe  (1564-93),  the  dramatist,  a  native  of  Canter- 
bury, was  unveiled  near  this  point  in  1891. 

From  the  end  of  Mercery  Lane  we  enter  the  cathedral-precincts 
by  Christchurch  Gate,  a  fine  late-Perpendicular  structure,  erected 
by  Prior  Goldstone  in  1517.  From  the  gateway  we  obtain  a  good 
general  view  of  the  Cathedral,  with  its  W\  towers,  its  noble  cen- 
tral tower,  and  its  double  set  of  transepts.  The  present  *Cathe- 
dr&l  ( Christchwch),  which  is  the  third  church  on  the  same  site, 
represents  architectural  history  extending  over  four  centuries 
(1070-1495),  but  its  general  external  appearance  ,  at  least  when 
viewed  from  the  W.,  is  that  of  a  magnificent  building  in  the  Per- 
pendicular style.  'The  history  of  Canterbury  Cathedral  has  been 
so  carefully  preserved  by  contemporary  records  ,  and  these  have 
been  so  thoroughly  investigated  by  Professor  Willis,  and  compared 
with  the  existing  structure,  that  we  may  almost  put  a  date  upon 
every  stone  of  this  magnificent  fabric;  it  is,  therefore,  our  best  and 
safest  guide  in  the  study  of  the  architecture  of  that  period  in  Eng- 


28     Route  2.  CANTERBURY.  From  London 

land'  (Parker).  It  is  said  tliat  a  Christian  cliurcli,  afterwards  used 
as  a  pagan  temple,  was  built  here  in  Roman-British  times  by  King 
Lucius ;  and  that  this  was  presented  by  Ethelbert,  along  with  his 
palace,  to  St.  Augustine  (p.  26),  who  converted  the  buildings  into 
a  cathedral  and  monastery.  Augustine's  cathedral  afterwards  fell 
into  decay  and  became  more  than  once  the  prey  of  the  flames  and 
of  the  pillaging  Danes,  who  carried  off  and  murdered  Archbp.  Alphege 
in  1011;  and  at  the  time  of  the  Norman  Conquest  it  had  almost 
entirely  disappeared.  Lanfranc  (1070-89],  the  first  Norman  arch- 
bishop ,  accordingly  undertook  the  erection  of  a  completely  new 
cathedral ,  a  work  which  was  continued  by  his  successor  Anselm 
and  the  Priors  Ernulph  and  Conrad,  and  finished  in  1130. 
The  last-named  completed  the  choir  in  such  a  magnificent  style, 
that  it  was  known  as  the  'Glorious  Choir  of  Conrad'.  The  choir 
of  this  second  or  Norman  cathedral  (the  church  in  which  Becket 
was  murdered)  was  burned  down  in  1174;  and  the  present  choir, 
in  the  Transition  style  from  Norman  to  Early  English,  was  erected 
in  its  place  by  the  architect,  William,  of  Sens,  who  may  almost  be 
said  to  have  introduced  the  Pointed  style  into  England,  and  his 
successor  William  the  Englishman  (1174-80).  The  old  Norman 
nave  and  transepts  remained  intact  for  200  years  more,  when  they 
were  replaced  by  the  present  Perpendicular  structure  (1378-1410), 
the  main  credit  for  which  is  generally  given  to  Prior  Chillenden 
(1390-1421).  The  great  central  tower,  called  the  Bell  Harry  Tower, 
was  added  by  Prior  Goldstone  in  1495.  The  N.  AV.  tower  is  modern, 
the  older  one  having  been  pulled  down,  with  doubtful  wisdom,  to 
make  one  to  match  its  S.  W.  neighbour.  The  principal  dimensions 
of  the  cathedral  are :  total  length  514  ft.,  length  of  choir  180  ft. ; 
breadth  of  nave  and  aisles  71  ft. ;  height  of  the  nave  80  ft.,  of  choir 
71  ft. ,  of  central  tower  235  ft.,  of  W.  towers  162  ft. 

The  Cathedral  is  open  to  visitors  from  9.30  a.  m.  to  the  close 
of  the  evening-service,  except  during  the  daily  services  at  10  a.  m. 
and  3  p.  m.  (4  p.  m.  in  Nov.,  Dec,  Jan.,  Feb.);  a  fee  of  Qd.  is 
charged  for  admission  to  the  choir  and  crypt.  The  principal  en- 
trance is  by  the  South  Porch,  built  by  Prior  Chillenden  in  1400, 
above  which  is  a  panel  with  a  curious  old  sculpture  representing 
the  altar  of  Becket's  Martyrdom,  and  a  sword  lying  in  front  of  it. 
The  figures  of  the  murderers  have  long  since  been  removed  from 
the  niches,  which  are  now,  like  those  on  the  W.  front ,  filled  with 
modern  figures  of  kings,  archbishops,  and  other  dignitaries  con- 
nected with  the  history  of  the  cathedral.  Comp.  Dean  Stanley  s 
'Historical  Memorials  of  Canterbury'  and  Williis  'Architectural 
History  of  Canterbury  Cathedral'. 

Interior.  The  Nave  produces  an  eflfect  of  wonderful  lightness  in  spite 
of  its  huge  proportions.  It  is  mainly  the  work  of  Prior  Chillenden  (see 
above).  The  stained  glass  is  modern,  except  the  great  W.  window,  which 
is  put  together  from  fragments  of  old  glass,  pieced  out  where  necessary 
by  modern  additions.   The  monuments  are  of  little  general  interest.  Archbp. 


to  Dover.  CANTERBURY.  2.  Route.     29 

Benson  (1882-96),  the  first  Proteatant  archbishop  interred  in  the  cathedral 
(comp.  p.  30),  is  buried  below  the  N.W.  tower.  On  the  arches  of  the 
piers  of  the  great  central  tower  may  be  seen  the  rebus  of  its  builder. 
Prior  Goldstone. 

The  Nave  Transepts  are  similar  in  style  to  the  nave,  though  differ- 
ing from  it  and  from  each  other  in  details.  Paris  of  Lanfranc's  masonry 
seem  to  have  been  retained  as  the  kernel  of  the  walls  and  of  the  piers 
supporting  the  tower.  The  X.W.  transept  is  of  special  interest  as  the  scene 
of  Thomas  Becket's  murder  on  Dec.  29th,  1170.  The  four  barons  approached 
by  the  door  on  the  W.  side  of  the  transept,  leading  from  the  cloisters, 
through  which  the  Archbishop  with  his  clerks  had  previously  entered  the 
church,  where  Vespers  were  being  sung.  Becket  refused  to  take  refuge 
either  in  the  vaults  or  roof  of  the  cathedral  and  was  cut  down  by  the 
murderers,  standing  in  front  of  the  wall  (still  in  situ)  between  the  chapel 
of  St.  Benedict  and  the  passage  to  the  crypt.  What  is  believed  to  be  the 
exact  spot  where  he  fell  is  still  pointed  out  and  is  marked  by  a  small 
square  incision  in  the  pavement.  The  large  window  of  this  transept  con- 
tains figures  of  Edward  IV.  (1461-83)  and  his  queen.  ElizabethWoodville,  who 
presented  the  window  to  the  cathedral.  Another  window  represents  the 
life  and  death  of  Becket.  To  the  E.  of  the  transept,  and  separated  from 
it  by  an  open  screen,  is  the  Ladi/  Chapel  (1449-68).  also  called  the  Deans' 
Chapel,  from  the  number  of  these  dignitaries  buried  in  it.  It  occupies  the 
place  of  fheXorman  chapel  of  St.  Benedict,  mentioned  above,  and  has  a  rich 
fan -vaulted  roof.  The  corresponding  chapel,  opening  from  the  S.W. 
transept,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael  and  known  as  the  Warriors'  Chapel. 
It  contains  the  tomb  of  Archbp.  Stephen  Langton  (1207-29),  the  champion  of 
national  liberty  against  King  John.  Here  also  is  the  monument  of  Mar- 
garet Holland ,d.&n^\x\ev  of  the  Earl  of  Kent,  with  her  two  husbands,  the 
Earl  of  Somerset  and  the  Duke  of  Clarence  (son  of  Henry  IV.). 

The  *Choik,  one  of  the  longest  in  England  (180  ft.),  is  elevated  several 
feet  above  the  nave,  a  peculiarity  which  occurs  elsewhere  among  English 
cathedrals  only  at  Rochester,  the  cathedral  of  which  is  evidently  an  imi- 
tation of  Canterbury  (comp.  p.  19).  The  beautiful  Screen  between  the 
nave  and  the  choir  is  a  work  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  is  adorned  with  stat- 
ues of  six  English  kings.  The  grand  Norman  arches,  supported  by  circular 
and  octagonal  piers  alternately,  here  furnish  a  striking  contrast  to  those 
of  the  nave.  The  triforium  arcade  with  its  combination  of  circular  and 
pointed  arches  is  an  excellent  example  of  the  transition  from  Romanesque 
to  Gothic,  and  recalls,  in  some  respects,  the  cathedral  of  Sens,  with  which 
the  architect  must  have  been  familiar.  The  visitor  will  note  the  singular 
curved  outline  of  the  choir,  caused  by  the  manner  in  which  the  walls 
trend  inward  at  the  E.  end.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  William  of 
Sens,  wishing  to  preserve  the  towers  of  St.  Anselm  and  St.  Andrew,  which 
had  survived  the  fire  that  destroyed  the  earlier  buildings,  narrowed  his 
choir  here  so  as  to  pass  between  them.  The  screens  separating  the  choir 
from  its  aisles  were  executed  by  Prior  Estria  in  1304-6;  they  are  broken 
at  intervals  by  the  canopied  tombs  of  archbishops,  the  most  conspicuous 
of  which  is  that  of  Archbp.  Chichele  (141443),  founder  of  All  Souls  Col- 
lege (p.  237).  Nearly  opposite  is  a  memorial  o{  Archbp.  Tail  (d.  1882;  comp. 
p.  44).  The  reredos,  altar,  and  archbishop's  throne  are  modern.  The  organ  is 
ingeniously  concealed  in  the  triforium,  and  nothing  of  it  is  visible  below 
except  the  manuals.  Part  of  the  stained  glass  of  the  choir-aisles  dates 
from  the  13th  century.  At  the  W.  end  is  a  painting  of  Becket's  Death,  by 
Cross.  This  aisle  incorporates  some  remains  of  the  earlier  Norman  choir, 
and  the  triforium  windows  of  the  N.  E.  Tkansept  are  also  by  Prior  Ernulph. 
At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  entrance  to  St.  Andrew's  Tower  (see 
above),  the  groundfloor  of  which  is  now  used  as  a  vestry.  At  the  E.  end 
of  the  S.  aisle  of  the  choir  is  the  corresponding  Tower  of  St.  Anselm, 
also  a  survival  from  the  older  church,  with  a  Decorated  window  inserted 
about  1335.  The  chapel  contains  the  tombs  of  Archbps.  Anselm  (d.  1109; 
no  monument),  Bradtcardine  (d.  1319),  and  Meopham  (d.  1333).  Above  it  is 
a  small  room,  with  a  grating  looking  into  Trinity  Chapel,  used  by  the 
guardian   of  the  treasures  at  Becket's   shrine   (p.  30).     Among  the  mom.i- 


30     Route  2.  CANTERBURY.  From  London 

ments  in  the  aisle  are  those  of  Archbishops  Simon  of  Sudbury  (1375-81 ;  behead- 
ed bv  Wat  Tyler),  Stratford  (1333-69),  Kempe  (1462-54),  Fitz-Walter  (1193-1207), 
and  Reynolds  (1313-28). 

From  the  E.  end  of  the  choir-aisles  flights  of  steps  ascend  to  the 
Trinitt  Chapel,  which,  with  the  'Corona''  behind  it,  is  the  work  of 
William  the  Englishman^  'small  in  body,  but  in  workmanship  of  many 
kinds  acute  and  honesf,  who  succeeded  William  of  Sens,  when  that 
unfortunate  architect  was  crippled  by  a  fall  from  the  clerestory.  This 
was  the  site  of  the  Shrine  of  Thomas  Becket,  who  was  canonized  soon 
after  his  death  and  became  the  most  popular  of  English  saints.  It 
was,  indeed,  the  fame  of  St.  Thomas  that  made  Canterbury  Cathedral, 
which  had  previously  been  overshadowed  by  the  adjoining  Monastery  of 
St.  Augustine,  the  greatest  centre  of  interest  among  the  ecclesiastical 
establishments  of  England.  His  body  was  interred  here  in  1220,  and  the 
shrine  was  adorned  with  such  magnificence  that  Erasmus,  who  visited  it 
in  1512,  tells  us  'gold  was  the  meanest  thing  to  be  seen'.  The  shrine  was 
destroyed,  its  treasures  confiscated,  and  the  body  of  St.  Thomas  burned  by 
Henry  VIII.  (1538);  and  the  only  remaining  trace  of  the  shrine  is  the  pave- 
ment that  surrounded  it,  worn  away  by  the  kuees  of  thousands  of  pious 
pilgrims.  [According  to  one  version  of  the  story,  however,  the  relics 
were  not  burned  but  re-interred ;  and  some  remains  found  below  in  the 
crypt  in  a  stone  coffin  in  1888  are  believed  by  many  to  be  those  of  Thomas 
Becket]  The  Stained  Olass  Windows  of  the  chapel,  of  the  13th  cent., 
depict  the  miracles  of  St.  Thomas.  On  the  N.  side  of  this  chapel  is  the 
handsome  marble  Monument  of  Henry  IV.  (1399-1413),  the  only  king  buried 
in  the  cathedral.  His  tomb  is  shared  by  his  second  wife,  Joan  of  Navarre. 
Behind  the  tomb  is  the  Chantry  of  Henry  IV.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
Trinity  Chapel  is  the  Monument  of  Edward ,  the  Black  Prince  (d.  1376), 
with  a  brazen  effigy ;  above  hang  the  prince's  surcoat,  gauntlets,  helmet, 
and  shield.  St.  Dunstan''s  Shrine  used  to  be  in  the  Black  Prince's  Chantry, 
where  the  head  of  the  effigy  has  lately  been  discovered.  Some  remark- 
able diaper  work  and  other  remains  of  it  are  incorporated  in  the  S.  E. 
screen,  near  Archbp.  Stratford's  memorial. 

The  extreme  E.  part  of  the  Cathedral  is  formed  by  the  beautiful 
chapel  called  the  Corona,  which  formerly  contained  an  altar  with  a  frag- 
ment of  Becket's  skull.  On  the  N.  side  stands  the  Monument  of  Cardinal 
Pole  {A.  1559),  the  last  Roman  Catholic  Archbishop.  The  Corona  also  contains 
the  so-called  C'/iajV  of  St.  Augustine  (13th  cent),  in  which  the  archbishops 
sit  at  their  installation. 

The  entrance  to  the  Cetpt,  which  is  very  spacious,  is  from  the  N.W. 
transept.  This  is  the  crypt  of  the  early  Norman  church,  and  it  has  been 
supposed  that  some  of  its  pillars  may  even  have  belonged  to  the  original 
Roman  church  on  this  site.  About  1576  Queen  Elizabeth  placed  the 
crypt  at  the  disposal  of  the  French  and  Flemish  refugees  in  England,  and 
part  of  it,  including  the  Black  Prince's  Chanirt/,  is  still  occupied  as  a 
French  church  by  their  descendants.  The  unfounded  tradition  that  the 
refugees  erected  their  silk-looms  in  the  crypt  seems  to  be  of  comparatively 
recent  date.  The  E.  part  of  the  crypt  formed  the  Chapel  of  Our  Lady 
Undercroft  and  was  formerly  very  richly  decorated.  The  body  of  Thomas 
Becket  lay  here  for  50  years,  and  this  was  the  scene  of  Henry  II. 's  penance. 
Traces  of  old  painting  have  lately  been  brought  to  light  in  a  chapel  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  crypt.  It  is  also  worth  noticing  that  some  of  the  capitals 
in  the  crypt  are  only  half-carved,  their  execution  having  probably  been 
stopped  by  the  fire  of  1174.  Recent  restorations  in  the  crypt  have  laid  bare 
the  original  floor  and  revealed  some  old  paintings  on  the  ceiling. 

The  precincts  contain  some  interesting  remains  of  the  monastery, 
originally  founded  by  St.  Augustine  and  re-established  by  Lanfranc. 

The  Cloisters  ,  "in  the  late-Perpendicular  style,  are  entered  from  the 
N.W.  transept  and  are  in  good  preservation.  The  coats-of-arms  at  the 
intersections  of  the  arches  are  those  of  benefactors  of  the  cathedral. 
On  the  N.  side  are  two  fine  doorways,  and  in  the  N.W.  corner  is  a  curious 
hatch  communicating  with  the  cellarer  s  lodgings.  —  To  the  E.  of  the 
cloisters  is  the  Chapter  House,  or  Sermon  House  (restored  1897),  to  which 


to  Dover.  CANTERBURY.  2.  Route.     31 

the  congrefiation  retired  after  prayers;  the  lower  part  is  E.E.,  the  upper 
part  was  built  at  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century.  The  panelled  ceiling  is 
of  Irish  oak.  The  Chapter  House  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  by  the  Library, 
an  old  Norman  structure  (restored),  containing;  a  collection  of  Bibles,  Prayer 
Books,  and  MSS.  Farther  to  the  E.  is  the  Norman  Baptistery.  —  A  pass- 
age called  the  'Dark  Entry''  (see  the  'Ingoldsby  Legends"),  reached  by 
steps  descending  from  the  N.E.  transept,  leads  from  the  cathedral  to  the 
Prior's  Gateway  and  the  Green  Court,  which  was  formerly  surrounded  by 
monastic  buildings.  To  the  E.  of  it  now  lies  the  Deanery,  and  on  the  N. 
is  the  old  Strangers^  Hall.  The  gate  in  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Green  Court 
was  formerly  the  entrance  to  this  hall.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  E.  end  of  the 
cathedral  is  a  passage  called  the  Brick  Walk,  on  the  right  side  of  which 
is  a  row  of  arches  in  an  early-Norman  style,  belonging  to  the  Monks'' 
Infirmary.  At  the  end  of  the  Brick  Walk  is  an  old  house  called  the 
Maister  Honours,  formerly  the  state-room  of  the  priory. 

To  the  N.W.  are  the  remains  of  the  old  Archbishop's  Palace,  including 
a  fine  arched  gateway  in  Palace  Street.  —  Visitors  who  wish  to  enjoy 
the  view  from  the  top  of  the  Bell  Harry  or  Central  Tower  (235  ft.)  must 
obtain  permission  from  the  Dean  or  one  of  the  Canons  in  residence. 

At  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Green  Court  (see  above)  is  the  King's 
School,  founded  by  Archbp.  Theodore  (7th  cent.),  'for  the  study  of 
Greek',  and  refounded  by  Henry  VIII, ;  it  numbers  Marlowe  (p.  27), 
Thurlow,  Harvey  (p.  15),  and  Robert  Boyle  among  former  pupils, 
and  still  enjoys  a  considerable  reputation.  The  approach  to  the 
upper  hall  is  by  a  beautiful  external  *Staircase,  with  open  arcades  at 
the  sides,  the  only  Norman  structure  of  the  kind  in  the  country. 

Next  to  the  Cathedral,  perhaps  the  most  interesting  object  in 
Canterbury  is  the  quaint  little  *Church  of  St.  Martin,  the  'Mother 
Church  of  England'.  It  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  E,,  3/4  M.  from  the 
Cathedral,  and  is  reached  from  Mercery  Lane  byBurgateSt.,  Church 
St.,  and  Longport  St.  The  keys  are  kept  at  No.  26  in  the  last,  but 
during  the  day  the  verger  is  generally  at  the  church. 

There  is  little  doubt  that  there  was  a  Christian  church  here  in  pre- 
Saxon  days,  which  had  been  fitted  up  as  a  chapel  for  Queen  Bertha, 
wife  of  Ethelbert  (p.  26),  prior  to  the  arrival  of  St.  Augustine.  King 
Ethelbert  is  said  to  have  been  baptized  here  in  the  old  font,  the  lower 
part  of  which  is  probably  of  Saxon  date.  An  old  stone  cotlin  is  shown 
as  that  of  Queen  Bertha.  Part  of  the  walls,  which  contain  numerous 
Roman  bricks,  may  belong  to  the  original  church;  the  chancel  was 
rebuilt  in  the  E.  E.  period.  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  —  The  churchyard 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city.  On  the  tomb  of  Dean  Alford  (d.  1871) 
is  the  touching  epitaph:  'Deversorium  Viatoris  Hierosolxmam  Proficis- 
centis'  Cthe  inn  of  a  traveller  on  his  way  to  Jerusalem'). 

On  the  way  to  St.  Martin's  we  pass ,  at  the  corner  of  Longport 
St.,  one  of  the  gates  of  the  old  *Monastery  of  St.  Augustine,  now 
restored  and  occupied  as  a  Missionary  College  (adm.  free  after  3  p.m.; 
all  day  in  vacation).  It  is,  however,  better  to  diverge  here  to  the 
left  and  enter  by  the  main  *Gate  (1300),   a  little  farther  down. 

The  monastery,  established  by  St.  Augustine,  was  seized  by  Henry  VIII. 
for  a  palace,  and  after  pa?«ing  through  various  private  hands,  was  bought 
in  1844  by  Mr.  Beresford  Hope,  who  converted  it  from  a  brewery  into 
the  present  college,  incorporating  as  much  as  possible  of  the  old  mon- 
astery. —  On  passing  through  the  main  gateway  we  find  ourselves  in  a 
fine  court,  with  the  tasteful  modern  buildings  of  the  College  to  the  left. 
These  include  a  large  Library,  with  a  valuable  Oriental  collection  (below, 
an   ancient  crypt);   a  Chapel;  picturesque  Cloi^ttrs;  and  a  Hall,  being  the 


32    Route  '2.  CANTERBURY. 

Guest  Hall  of  the  old  monastery,  with  its  original  oaken  roof.  To  the 
right  are  the  remains  of  the  old  Church.  Within  the  grounds  is  the  Kent 
and  Canterbury  Hospital.  St.  Augustine,  King  Ethelbert,  and  Queen  Bertha 
were  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  the  monastery. 

Among  the  remaining  points  of  interest  in  Canterbury  may  be 
enumerated  St.  John's  Hospital,  founded  by  Lanfranc,  in  North- 
gate  St.,  to  the  N.  of  the  Cathedral ;  St.  Alphege's  Church,  near  the  W. 
end  of  the  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  the  martyred  archbishop  (p.  28) 
and  containing  some  old  brasses  ;  St.  Stephen's ,  with  some  Norman 
work,  near  the  S.E.  Station;  the  ruins  of  St.  Sepulchre's  Nunnery, 
where  Elizabeth  Barton,  the  'Holy  Maid  of  Kent',  was  a  nun  (temp. 
Henry  VIII.),  to  the  S.  of  the  city;  the  modern  Roman  Catholic 
Church  of  St.  Thomas,  with  an  elaborately  adorned  interior ;  the  large 
Open-Air  Swimming  Bath,  on  the  Stour,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town, 
and  the  extensive  Barracks ,  to  the  N.  E.  Parts  of  the  old  City 
Wall  are  visible  in  Broad  St.,  to  the  E.  of  the  Cathedral. 

About  1^/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Canterbury,  on  the  London  road,  is  the 
village  of  Harhledown  (perhaps  the  'Bob  up-and-down'  of  Chaucer),  with 
the  Hospital  of  St.  Nicholas,  originally  founded  for  lepers  by  Archbp.  Lan- 
franc. No  part  of  the  present  buildings  is  ancient,  except  portions  of  the 
church,  which'  has  Norman  pillars  and  arches  on  one  side,  E.E.  on  the 
other,  and  an  open  timber-roof.  Fine  view  of  Canterbury.  — Bavfreston 
Church  (see  below)  is  10  M.  to  the  S.W.  —  Coaches  to  Heme  Bay,  Margate, 
and  Ramsgate,  see  pp.  23,  24. 

From  Canterbuet  to  Ramsgate,  15  M.,  S.  E,  Railway  in  '/z-'A  li^- 
(fares  25.  8c?.,  Is.  %d.,  is.  4d.). —  At  (11  M.)  Minster  we  join  the  Ramsgate 
and  Deal  railway  (see  p.  24). 

From  Canterbury  to  Shorncliffe,  18  M.,  railway  (S.  E.  R.)  in  3/4  hr. 
The  first  station  is  (1  M.)  South  Canterbury,  close  to  the  county  cricket- 
ground,  where  the  cricket-festival  known  as  the  'Canterbury  Week'  is 
celebrated  in  the  first  week  of  August.  The  line  runs  through  the  Elham 
Valley.  At  (18  M.)  Shorncliffe  we  join  the  line  mentioned  at  p.  14  (for 
Folkestone  and  Dover). 

A  short  line  runs  from  Canterbury  to  (6  M.)   Whitstable  (p.  23). 

Canterbury  may  also  be  reached  from  London  by  the  S.  E.  Railway 
via  Ashford  (see  p.  14),  a  somewhat  longer  route  (TO  M.-,  same  fares). 

Beyond  Canterbury  the  train  passes  (65  M.)  Bekesbourne  and 
(68  M.)  Adisham,  with  an  E.  E.  church.  From  (72  M.)  Shepherd's 
Well  or  Siebertsxcold  the  ecclesiologist  should  pay  a  visit  to  Barfres- 
ton  Church  (pronounced  'Barson'),  a  small  but  highly  interesting 
Norman  building,  situated  V/2  M.  to  the  N.  E.  The  walk  may  be 
continued  to  the  S.  to  Waldershare,  the  Earl  of  Guilford's  house 
and  park,  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Shepherd's  Well.  —  The  train  then  pene- 
trates a  long  tunnel  and  reaches  (75  M.)  Kearsney,  the  junction  of 
the  line  to  Deal  (see  p.  25).  Kearsney  Abbey,  the  residence  of  the 
Marquis  of  Ely,  is  modern.  To  the  N.E. ,  1/2  M.  from  the  station, 
is  the  village  of  Eivell,  where  King  John  had  his  first  interview 
vdth  Pandulf,  the  Pope's  Legate,  before  resigning  his  crown  at 
Dover  (1213).  —  We  now  thread  another  tunnel,  pass  (77  M.)  Dover 
Priory,  and  reach  (78  M.)  Dover  Town.  Passengers  for  the  Conti- 
nent are  carried  on  to  the  Admiralty  Pier,  where  the  steamers  start. 

Dover,  see  p.  15. 


33 


3.  From  London  to  Maidstone. 


421/2  M.  South  Eastern  Eailway  from  Charing  Cross,  Cannon  Street, 
and  London  Bridge  in  l'/2-2  hrs.  (fares  Is.,  45.  3d.,  3s.  i^/id.;  return  12<., 
8«.  6d.,  6s.  9d.).  —  The  Lo.vdon,  Chatham,  and  Dover  Line  to  Maidstone 
(41  M.;  same  times  and  fares)  from  Victoria  and  Bolborn  diverges  froa 
the  Rochester  line  at  (iVh  M.)  Swanley  (see  p.  18)  and  runs  thence  via 
Otford  (for  Sevenoaks,  p.  13),   Wrotham  (31  M.),  and  Mailing  (p.  35). 

As  far  as  (17  M.)  Dart  ford  the  South  Eastern  Railway  has  two 
lines,  one  running  via  (lOM.)  Woolwich  and  the  other  via  (9M.) 
Eltham,  both  of  which  are  described  in  Baedeker  8  London. 

17  M.  Dartford  (Bull;  Victoria)  is  a  busy  town  of  12,000  in- 
hab.,  with  several  factories  and  the  City  of  London  Lunatic  Asyl- 
um. The  first  paper-mill  in  England  was  erected  here  in  the  reign 
of  Elizabeth  (1558-1603).  The  tomb  of  the  founder  is  in  the 
church,  and  from  his  crest  (a  fool's  cap)  foolscap  paper  derives 
its  name.  Dartford  was  the  abode  of  Wat  Tyler,  who  began  his 
revolt  here  by  killing  the  poll-tax  collector  (1381). 

We  now  cross  the  Darent  and  skirt  the  bank  of  the  Thames. 
20  M.  Greenhithe ,  with  villas  and  chalk-qnarries.  In  the  river 
here  are  moored  two  or  three  training-ships.  Near  Greenhithe  are 
Stone  Churchy  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  architect  of  West- 
minster Abbey,  and  Ingress  Abbey ^  at  one  time  occupied  by  the 
father  of  Sir  Henry  Havelock. 

22  M.  Northfleet,  with  chalk-pits,  cement- factories,  a  fine  old 
church  containing  some  monuments  of  the  14th  cent.,  a  college 
for  indigent  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  a  working-man's  club  (a  con- 
spicuous red  and  white  brick  building). 

24  M.  Gravesend  (Clarendon;  New  and  Old  Falcon;  Talbot; 
Rosherville),  a  favourite  river-resort  of  the  Londoners,  with  the  pop- 
ular Rosherville  Gardens,  is  described  with  more  detail  in  Bae- 
deker's London.    A  steam-ferry  plies  to  Tilbury  (p.  459). 

A  branch-line  runs  hence  through  the  Hoo  District  to  (16  M.)  Port 
Victoria,  in  the  Isle  of  Grain  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Medway,  opposite 
Sheerness  (p.  22).  —  Coiham  Hall  lies  about  4  M.  to  the  S.  (tickets,  see  p.  21). 

28 1/2 M.  Higham,  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  Gad's  Hill  (p.  21). 
We  then  pass  through  a  long  tunnel  (2  M.) ,  with  a  break  in  the 
middle,  and  reach  (31  M.)  Strood  (for  Rochester,  see  p.  18). 

The  train  now  runs  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Medway,  afford- 
ing a  fine  view  of  the  cathedral  and  castle  of  Rochester.  Beyond 
the  river  are  the  chalk-hills  forming  the  'backbone  of  Kent'.  Near 
(34  M.)  Cuxton  and  (36  M.)  Snodland  the  beauty  of  the  valley  is 
seriously  marred  by  the  numerous  chalk -quarries  and  lime  and 
cement  works.    The  scenery,  however,  improves  greatly  at  — 

39  M.  Aylesford  (George  Inn),  charmingly  situated  on  the  river, 
with  its  church  rising  high  above  the  red-roofed  cottages.  This 
was  the  birthplace  of  Sir  Charles  Sedley,  the  poet  (1639-1701).  The 
Churchy  partly  of  Norman  workmanship,  contains  some  interesting 
monuments  of  the  Colepepper  family. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  3 


34     Route  3.  MAIDSTONE.  From  London 

Aylesford  (the  Saxon  Eglaford)  is  the  traditional  site  of  a  great  battle 
between  the  British  prince  Vortigern  and  the  Saxons  under  Hengist  and 
Horsa,  whose  direct  northward  march  seems  to  have  been  deflected  to 
the  E.  at  Rochester  (comp.  Green's  'Making  of  England',  p.  35). 

Aylesford  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  interesting 
cromlech  called  *Kits  Coty  House  ,  which  lies  on  the  chalk-hills,  IV2  M. 
to  the  N.  E.,  close  to  the  road  from  Rochester  to  Maidstone.  The  crom- 
lech consists  of  three  upright  stones  of  'Sarsen'  sandstone,  each  about 
8  ft.  high,  with  a  fourth,  12  ft.  long,  lying  transversely  across  them.  Each 
stone  weighs  from  8  to  IO1/2  tons.  Tradition  makes  this  monument  the 
tomb  of  a  British  chief,  and  the  name  may  mean  simply  the  'tomb  in 
the  wood'  fU''elsh  coed,  'wood").  Recent  investigation  seems  to  indicate 
that  this  was  the  site  of  a  British  cemetery  and  that  the  whole  district 
was  consecrated  to  religious  uses.  In  a  field  between  Kits  Coty  House 
and  Aylesford  is  another  group  of  monoliths  known  as  the  'Countless 
Stones',  from  the  superstition,  frequently  met  with  elsewhere,  that  they 
cannot  be  counted  twice  with  the  same  result;  and  there  would  seem  to 
have  been  a  complete  avenue  of  similar  stones  extending  from  Kits  Coty 
House  to  the  village  of  Addington  (p.  35),  6  M.  to  the  W. 

Aylesford  is  about  3  M.  from  Maidstone,  the  walk  to  which  along 
the  river,  via  (IV2  M.)  Allington  (see  below),  is  very  attractive,  especially 
in  the  hop-picking  season. 

Beyond  Aylesford  the  train  passes  Allington  Castle  (see  above; 
to  the  left),  birthplace  of  Sir  Thomas  Wyatt,  the  poet  (1503-42), 
and  (41 V2  M.)  Maidstone  Barracks  station. 

421/2  M.  Maidstone.  —  Hotels.  Stak,  MiTEE,High  St.;  Bell,  "Week 
St.,  an  old-fashioned  house,  commended  in  'Pepys's  Diary' ;  Railway  Hotel, 
adjoining  the  S.E.  Station,  R.,  A.,  &  B.  55.  3d.  —  Bail.  Rfint.  Rooms. 

Railway  Stations.  The  S.  E.  R.  Station  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the  town, 
beyond  the  bridge;  the  i.,  C,  d-  D.  Station  is  at  the  N.  end  of  Week  St. 

Maidstone  (the  'town  on  the  Medway'),  the  county-town  of 
Kent,  a  prosperous-looking  place  with  32,150  inhab.,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Medway,  which  is  here  crossed 
by  a  substantial  modern  bridge.  The  chief  object  of  interest  is  the 
formerly  collegiate  '^Church  of  All  Saints  .,  a  fine  Perp.  structure, 
of  which  a  striking  view  is  obtained  from  the  bridge.  It  was 
mainly  built  by  Archhp.  Courtenay,  who  died  here  in  1396,  and 
contains  good  stalls  and  sedilia,  the  interesting  tomb  of  Wootton, 
first  Master  of  the  College  (1417),  some  old  monuments  of  county 
families  ,  and  an  arcaded  screen  between  the  nave  and  chancel. 
Adjoining  the  church  is  the  College  of  All  Saints,  established 
by  Archbp.  Courtenay  and  dissolved  by  Henry  YIII.  The  buildings, 
which  include  a  fine  arched  gateway  and  two  towers,  are  inter- 
esting specimens  of  14th  cent,  architecture.  To  the  N.  of  the 
church  is  the  former  Palace  of  the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury, 
now  a  school  of  art  and  science;  and  opposite,  to  the  E.  of  the 
church,  is  a  range  of  out-buildings,  with  a  singular  external  stair- 
case, probably  older  than  any  part  of  the  palace  itself. 

The  *Maidstone  Museum,  in  Faith  St.,  is  installed  in  Chilling- 
ton  Manor  House,  a  well-preserved  specimen  of  a  town-mansion 
of  the  16th  cent.,  now  flanked  on  the  £.  by  the  Bentlif  Art  Gallery 
and  on  the  W.  by  the  Public  Library  and  the  School  of  Science  and 
Art.   The  institution,  one  of  the  most  valuable  provincial  museums 


to  Maidstone.  LEEDS  CASTLE.  3.  Route.     35 

in  the  country,  contains  collections  of  natural  history,  archaeology 
and  antiquities  ,  ethnology ,  pottery,  and  paintings,  and  is  open 
free  daily  from  10  to  5  in  summer  ("Wed.  10-9),  10  till  dusk  in 
winter.    Curator,  Mr.  Frederick  James,  F.  S.  A. 

Environs.  The  walk  to  AWngton,  (3  M.)  Aylesford,  and  (IV2  M.)  Kits 
Coty  House  lias  been  described  in  the  reverse  direction  on  p.  34.  —  At 
West  or  Town  Mailing,  a  station  on  tlie  L.C.D.  Railway,  6  M.  to  the  W. 
of  Maidstone,  are  the  remains  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  by  Bishop 
Gundulf  of  Rochester  (p.  19).  To  the  S.  is  the  so-called  St.  Leonard's 
Toicer^  the  keep  of  a  castle  also  erected  by  Gundulf  (ca.  lOTOj,  the  archi- 
tecture of  which  is,  according  to  Parker,  of  earlier  character  than  that 
of  any  keep  in  Normandy.  At  Offham  Green,  V2  M.  to  the  W.,  are  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  quintain.  Addinglon,  with  some  British  remains 
(see  p.  34),  lies  about  21/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Town  Slallin-.  —  About 
2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Maidstone  is  Boxley  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  establishment 
of  the  12th  cent.,  now  incorporated  with  a  modern  mansion.  To  reach 
it  we  follow  the  Rochester  road  to  a  point  a  little  beyond  CIV2  M.)  Sand- 
ling,  where  we  diverge  to  the  right  by  a  footpath  skirting  a  small  affluent 
of  the  Medway.  We  may  return  to  Maidstone  across  Penenden  Heath, 
famous  for  its  ancient  folkmotes  and  modern  political  meetings. 

The  Ashford  road,  leading  E.  from  Maidstone,  passes  (1  31.)  Mote 
Park  (to  the  right)  and  (IV2  M.)  Bearsted,  with  a  Perp.  church- tower, 
and  soon  reaches  (2  M.)  the  park  of  *Leeds  Castle,  one  of  the  finest 
country-seats  in  Kent,  dating  mainly  from  the  13th  cent.,  though  other 
parts  of  it  are  more  ancient  and  more  modern.  It  stands  in  the  midst 
of  a  lake,  and  its  defences  were  very  strong.  The  castle  was  given  by 
William  the  Conqueror  to  the  family  of  Crevecoeur,  but  it  reverted  to 
the  crown  about  1800,  and  has  since  passed  through  many  hands,  its 
present  proprietors  being    the  Wykeham-Martins, 

From  Maidstone  travellers  may  continue  their  journey  by  the 
S.  E.  R.  branch  to  its  junction  with  the  main  line  at  (9^/2  ^^O 
Paddock  Wood,  running  through  a  rich  hop-district;  or  they  may 
take  the  L.  CD.  line  to  (I83/4  M.)  Ashford  (p.  14),  traversing  one 
of  the  prettiest  parts  of  Kent.  In  the  opposite  direction  the  L.C.D. 
line  runs  tt)  (10 M.)  Sevenoaks  (p.  12)  and  (^IM.)  Su-anley  (p.  18). 


4.  From  London  to  Hastings. 

62  M.  South  Eastern  Railway  from  Charing  Cross,  London  Bridge, 
and  Gannon  St.  in  13/4-3  hrs.  (fares  10s.  Gd.,  6s.  Id.,  6s.  ^jid.;  return, 
available  for  a  month,  18s.  4d.,  13s.  2d.,  10s.  id.,  on  Wed.,  valid  on  day 
of  issue  only,  15s.,  10s.  (id.,  6s.). 

There  is  also  another  and  longer  route  (76  M.  in  21/2-4  hrs.;  same 
fares)  by  the  London,  Brighton,  d-  South  Coast  Railway  from  Victoria  and 
London  Bridge  via  Lewes  and  Polegate. 

From  London  to  (29V2  M.)  Tunhridge,  see  11.  2a.  The  Ash- 
ford and  Folkestone  trains  here  turn  to  the  E.,  while  the  Hastings 
train  runs  due  south. 

341/2  M.  Tunbridge  Wells.  —  Hotels.  Calverley,  near  the  S.E. 
Railway  Station,  overlooking  Calverley  Park;  Wellingtok  ,  Royal, 
Mount  Ephraim.  on  Mount  Ephraim,  with  view  of  the  Common;  Royal 
Kentish,  facing  the  Common,  and  about  equidistant  from  both  railway 
stations,  pens,  from  i'2s.;  Molyneux  Park;  Spa,  facing  the  Common; 
Swan,  Castle,  commercial.  —  In  the  vicinity:  Camden,  at  Pemhury,  3  M. 
to  the  N. ;  Hand  A;  Scmptre,  at  Southborough  ("p.  37).  —  Bishop's  Down  Spa, 
a  hydropathic  establishment.  —  Numerous  Boarding  Houses  and  Lodgings. 

3* 


36     Route  4.  TL'NBRIDGE  WELLS.  From  London 

Railway  Stations.  S.  E.  R.  Station,  near  the  top  of  Higti  St.  •■,  L.  B. 
S.  C.  Station,  Eridge  Road,  near  the  Pantiles. 

Cabs.  Per  mile,  1st  class  (1-5  pers.)  1*.,  2nd  class  (1-4  pers.)  10c?., 
3rd  class  (1-2  pers.)  8d.;  each  addit.  1/2  M,  Qd.,  bd.,  4c/.-,  per  hour  3s.,  2s., 
Is.  %d.     Between  midnight  and  6  a.m.  fare  and  a  half.  Luggage  free. 

Baths  in  the  isew  Parade  and  at  the  Bishop's  Down  Spa;  Open-Air 
Suimming  Baths,  at  the  foot  of  Quarry  Ptoad. 

Music.  A  band  plays  in  the  Pantiles  every  day  at  11  a.  m.,  and  either 
there  or  in  some  other  part  of  the  town  in  the  afternoon  and  evening. 

Tunbridge  Wells,  one  of  the  most  popular  inland  Tvatering- 
places  in  England,  Tivith  28,000  inhal).  ,  is  finely  situated  in  a 
Mlly  district  on  the  borders  of  Kent  and  Sussex ,  and  owes  its 
present  favour  rather  to  its  pretty  surroundings  and  invigorating 
air  than  to  its  somewhat  weak  chalybeate  springs.  The  springs  were 
discovered  hy  Lord  North  ahout  1606,  and  Tunbridge  soon  became 
a  fashionable  watering-place.  Somewhat  later  it  seems  to  have 
been  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Puritans ,  who  have  left  traces  of 
their  partiality  in  such  names  as  Mount  Ephraim  and  Mount  Zion ; 
and  it  is  still  specially  affected  by  adherents  of  the  Evangelical 
school.    The  season  is  at  its  height  in  August  and  September. 

The  most  prominent  architectural  feature  of  the  town  is  the 
Pantiles,  or  Parade,  deriving  its  name  from  the  earlier  style  of 
pavement.  Many  of  the  houses  in  the  Parade  are  very  quaint  and 
picturesque;  and  it  is  still,  as  in  the  days  of  Queen  Anne  and 
the  Georges,  the  favourite  promenade  of  the  visitors.  It  also  con- 
tains many  of  the  best  shops ,  including  several  for  the  sale  of 
'Tunbridge  Ware',  or  small  articles  in  wood-mosaic.  The  Assembly 
Rooms  and  the  Pump  Room,  with  the  chief  mineral  spring,  are  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  Pantiles  (water  2d.  per  glass,  2s.  per  week). 

Tunbridge  Wells  is  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  a  breezy  Common, 
with  an  area  of  about  170  acres;  and  Calverley  Park  is' a  pleasant 
open-air  resort  within  the  town. 

The  Environs  of  Tunbridge  Wells  are  undulating  and  beautifully 
wooded,  affording  charming  rambles  in  every  direction.  The  soil  dries 
quickly  after  rain.  The  favourite  short  walks  are  to  the  Toad  Bock, 
on  Ru'sthall  Common,  1  M.  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  High  Rocks  (adm.  6cf.), 
11/4  M.  to  the  S.  W.,  both  good  examples  of  the  fantastic  shapes  assumed 
bv  sandstone  rocks  in  the  process  of  unequal  disintegration.  A  round  of 
about  31/2  M.  will  include  both. 

One  of  the  most  popular  of  the  longer  excursions  is  that  to  Pens- 
hurst  Place  (p.  13),  6  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  which  may  be  reached  by  railway 
via  Tunbridge  (comp.  p.  13).  "Walkers,  however,  will  find  the  route  via 
Bidhorough  very  pleasant:  and  they  may  extend  their  excursion  to  Hever 
(p.  13)  and  Edenhridge  (p.  13),  returning  from  the  last  by  train.  —  About 
6  M.  to  the  S.E.  lies  Bayham  Ahley  (p.  14)  and  about  2  M.  farther  on  is 
Lamberhurst  (p.  14).  The  return  walk  may  be  shortened  by  taking  the 
train  from  Frant  (see  below).  —  A  very  pleasant  round  may  be  made  as 
follows.  We  follow  the  road  leading  S*  from  the  Wells  to  (2  M.)  Frant, 
and  walk  thence  to  the  W.  across  *£'r;d9'e  Pavl- (Marquis  of  Abergavenny ; 
castle  not  shown),  and  past  the  *  Eridge  Rocks  (open  to  visitors  on  Thurs.) 
at  Eridge  Green,  to  (2V2  M.)  Eridge  station.  Or  we  may  turn  to  the  X.W. 
at  Eridge  Green  and  cross  Broadwater  Wood,  either  to  (2  31.)  Groombridge 
(p.  37),  another  railway-station,  8  M.  nearer  Tunbridge  Wells,  or  to  the 
(2  M.)  High  Rocks  (see  above).  —  Excursion  to  Bodicfhi  Castle,  either  from 
Etchingham  or  Robertsbridge,  see  p.  37. 


to  Hastings.  BATTLE.  4.  Route.     37 

The  little  town  of  Southborough,  halfway  between  Tunbridge  Wells 
and  Tunbridge,  also  possesses  a  chalybeate  spring  and  is  frequented  by 
those  who  wish  quieter  and  somewhat  cheaper  quarters. 

From  Tunbridge  "Wells  to  Eastbodbxe,  30  31..  railway  in  I1/4  hr. 
(fares  45.  6c?.,  2s.  10c/.,  2s.  2^-2(1.).  —  3  31.  Groombridge,  the  junction  of 
lines  to  Three  llridges  (p.  46),  Lewes  (p.  42j,  and  Edenbridge  (p.  37),  Croy- 
don, and  London.  —  11  31.  Alayfield,  a  village  with  some  quaint  timbered 
houses  and  an  old  ''Palace,  of  the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury,  now  a 
nunnery  (adm.  3-4).  This  was  a  favourite  residence  of  the  archbishops 
from  Dunstan  (d.  988)  to  Cranmer  (d.  looG)  and  dates  mainly  from  about 
1350,  with  later  additions.  The  Great  Hall,  now  the  Chapel,  is  nearly 
70  ft.  long.  —  221,2  31.  Hailsham.,  3'5/4  31.  to  the  W.  of  Hurstmonceaux 
(p.  52);   25  M.  Polegate  Junction  (p.  42).  —  30  31.  Eastbourne.,  see  p.  42. 

Beyond  Tunbridge  Wells  the  train  enters  Sussex.  37  M.  Frant; 
the  village  (*Inn)  lies  on  a  hill  1  M.  to  the  W.,  on  the  E.  edge 
of  Fridge  Park  (p.  36).  —  39  M.  Wadhurst ,  with  curious  iron 
tombstones  in  the  church  and  churchyard.  An  omnibus  plies  hence 
thrice  a  day  to  the  village  of  Ticehurst^  which  may  also  be  reached 
from  the  next  station,  (447-2  M.)  Ticekurst  Road.  471/2  M.  Etching- 
ham,  with  a  fine  Dec.  church.  —  ■491/4  M.  Robertsbridge  (George), 
with  the  scanty  remains  of  a  Cistercian  abbey  of  the  12th  cent., 
1  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station. 

Robertsbridge  is  the  nearest  station  to  Bodiam  Castle,  which  by  road 
is  nearly  5  31.  off,  but  by  the  following  route  only  81/2  M.  We  follow 
the  cart-track  passing  the  abbey,  pass  through  a  gate  at  the  end  of  it, 
and  take  the  path  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Rather.  After  about  1  31. 
we  reach  the  highroad,  which  we  follow  to  the  N.  for  some  distance,  and 
then  finish  the  walk  by  a  path  on  the  left  (N.)  bank  of  the  stream. 
"Bodiam  Castle  (adm.  6rf.,  on  Frid.  Is.,  by  tickets  obtained  at  the  iS^ational 
School ,  near  the  gate)  is  a  splendid  example  of  a  14th  cent,  fortress 
(ca.  1396),  surrounded  by  a  broad  moat  and  possessing  fine  gateways, 
machicholated  parapets,  a  portcullis,  etc.  It  is  nearly  square  in  ground- 
plan,  with  circular  towers  at  the  corners  and  rectangular  ones  between 
them.  A  good  echo  may  be  awakened  on  the  X.  side.  Xear  the  gate  is 
the  Castle  Hotel,  a  good  inn.  Bodiam  is  a  favourite  excursion  from 
Hastings  (see  p.  41). 

551/2  M.  Battle  (Star;  George).,  an  old  town  with  3150  iuhab.,  fam- 
ous for  the  abbey  founded  herebyWilliam  the  Conqueror  (see  below). 
To  reach  the  (V2  ^^^0  abbey,  we  turn  to  the  left  on  leaving  the  station 
and  then  to  the  right,  soon  skirting  the  wall  enclosing  the  abbey 
precincts.  To  the  right  lies  the  Parish  Church  of  Battle,  a  build- 
ing in  the  transition  style  between  Norman  and  E.E.,  with  Dec. 
and  Perp.  additions  (restored).  It  contains  a  few  brasses  and  the 
fine  tomb  of  Sir  Anthony  Browne  (p.  38),  with  effigies  of  him  and 
his  wife.  In  the  churchyard,  close  to  the  E.  end  of  the  church,  is  the 
grave  of  Isaac  Ingall,  a  servant  of  one  of  the  owners  of  the  abbey, 
stated  on  his  tombstone  to  have  died  in  1798  at  the  age  of  120.  — 
A  little  beyond  the  church  we  come  in  sight  of  the  abbey  gateway, 
in  the  open  space  in  front  of  which  still  remains  the  old  ring  used 
in  bull-baiting  (50  yds.  from  the  gate). 

*Battle  Abbey,  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  venerable  historic- 
al monuments  in  England,  was  founded  by  William  the  Conqueror 
in  fulfilment  of  a  vow  made  by  him  during  the  battle  fought  here 


38     Route  4.  BATTLE  ABBEY.  From  London 

with  Harold,  the  English  king,  in  1066.  Though  generally  known 
as  the  'Battle  of  Hastings',  the  battle  is  more  accurately  named 
after  the  heights  of  Senlac ,  on  which  William  found  the  Saxons 
entrenched  behind  a  stockade  on  his  march  from  Pevensey  (p.  52), 
and  which  lie  a  short  distance  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town  of  Battle.  The 
abbey,  indeed,  stands  on  the  very  spot  where  Harold  fell.  The  abbey 
was  entrusted  to  the  care  of  the  Benedictine  Order,  and  the  minster 
was  consecrated  in  1095.  At  the  Reformation  (1538)  it  was  presented 
to  Sir  Anthony  Browne^  Henry  VIII. 's  Master  of  the  Horse,  who  con- 
verted the  monastic  buildings  into  a  private  dwelling-house  and 
added  the  banqueting-hall.  Since  then  it  has  passed  through  various 
hands,  and  it  now  belongs  to  the  Duchess  of  Cleveland. 

The  abbey  is  open  on  Tues.,  from  12  to  4,  to  visitors  provided  with 
tickets  (free)  obtained  from  Ticehurst,  the  bookseller,  in  the  main  street 
near  the  gateway.  Visitors  are  conducted  through  the  ruins  in  parties 
by  a  guide  (who  expects  a  small  gratuity),  and  in  the  summer  months 
the  crowds  of  excursionists  from  Hastings  are  very  large. 

We  enter  the  precincts  of  the  abbey  by  a  fine  late-Decorated  ^Gate- 
house (1338),  described  by  ITathaniel  Hawthorne  ('English  Note-Books') 
as  'the  perfect  reality  of  a  Gothic  battlement  and  gateway,  just  as 
solid  and  massive  as  when  it  was  first  built,  though  hoary  and  venerable 
with  the  many  intervening  centuries'.  The  longer  (E.)  wing  was  formerly 
the  almonry,  while  the  W.  wing  is  now  fitted  up  as  a  porter's  lodge.  On 
entering  the  gateway  we  find  ourselves  in  a  large  grassy  court,  on  the  E. 
Geft)  side  of  which  stand  the  abbey-buildings,  the  portions  visible  to  us 
(named  from  left  to  right)  being  the  Abbofs  Lodge,  the  Porch,  the  Abbofs 
Hall,  and  the  Library  (modern).  "We  pass  the  front  of  the  building  and 
make  our  way  to  the  Terrace,  at  the  S.  end,  where  we  await  our 
cicerone,  and  in  the  meantime  enjoy  a  fine  view  of  the  battle-field,  with 
the  heights  of  Telham,  whence  the  Normans  first  caught  sight  of  their  foe, 
on  the  other  side  of  the  valley.  This  terrace  marks  the  site  of  the  old 
Guest  House,  afterwards  replaced  by  Sir  Anthony  Browne's  Banqueting  Hall, 
itself  pulled  down  about  1750.  Two  turrets  at  the  W.  end  and  some 
traces  of  the  windows  and  fireplaces  are  the  only  remains.  From  the 
terrace  we  are  conducted  past  the  "W.  front  of  the  abbey  and  round  the_N. 
end  of  it  to  the  old  Cloisters,  one  fine  arcade  of  which  is  still  visible,  forming 
the  E.  external  wall  of  the  present  edifice.  Farther  to  the  E.,  on  some- 
what higher  ground  than  the  rest  of  the  abbey,  lie  the  picturesque  E.  E. 
ruins  of  the  "Refectory  (wrongly  described  as  the  dormitory),  with  inter- 
esting vaulted  chambers  below,  described  as  the  Day  Room,  the  Monks'' 
Parlour,  and  the  Kitchen  (perhaps  the  Calefactory  or  Scriptorium?).  The 
last  part  of  the  ruins  shown  on  ordinary  occasions  is  the  Abbey  Church 
of  St.  Martin,  which  extended  from  the  N.  side  of  the  Abbot's  Lodge  on 
the  W.  to  a  point  opposite  the  Parish  Church  (outside  the  wall)  on  the 
E.,  a  distance  of  fully  3(X)  ft.  The  scanty  remains  of  this  large  edifice 
consist  merely  of  a  few  piers  and  stones  at  the  E.  end;  and  nearly  the 
whole  area  is  now  a  garden,  containing  some  fine  old  yews  and  cedars. 
The  guide  points  out  the  site  of  the  High  Altar,  supposed  to  be  the  spot 
on  which  the  body  of  Harold  was  found  after  the  battle.  —  The  Abbofs 
Hall,  shown  only  in  the  absence  ofthefamih-,  contains  relics  of  the  Battle 
of  Hastings,  some  good  tapestry,  and  portraits  of  the  Duke  and  Duchess 
of  Cleveland.  —  The  so-called  'Roll  of  Battle  Abbey',  containing  a  list  of 
the  Norman  nobles  who  came  over  with  the  Conqueror,  is  a  forgery  com- 
posed at  a  time  when  a  Norman  lineage  had  become  fashionable.  The 
original  is  believed  to  have  been  burned   in  1793  at  Cowdray  (p.  61). 

On  leaving  the  abbey-gateway  the  tourist  will  find  vehicles  ready  to 
take  him  to  "Normanhurst,  the  handsome  modern  residence  of  Lord  Bras- 
sey,  which  lies  3  M.  to  the  "W.  (fare  there  and  back  2s.  each;  adm.,  on 
Tues.,   Is.,   bv   ticket  obtained   at  the  Battle  booksellers'  or  at  Dorman's 


to  Hastings.  HASTINGS.  4.  Route.     39 

Library,  St.  Leonards).  The  house  is  finely  situated,  commanding  a  most 
extensive  *View.  —  Those  who  prefer  it  will  also  generally  find  an  op- 
portunity of  driving  to  Hastings  instead  of  taking  the  train. 

Beyond  Battle  the  train  descends  towards  the  sea  and  soon  reaches 
the  (61 Y2  M.)  Warrior  Square  Station  of  St.  Leonards  (see  helow). 

62  M.  Hastings.  —  Railway  Stations.  Central  or  Hastings  Station 
of  the  S.  E.  R.,  at  the  top  of  Ilavelock  Road,  Hastings,  also  used  by 
the  L.  B.  S.  C.  trains;  Warrior  Square  Station,  the  St.  Leonards  Station 
of  the  S.  E.  R.;  Bopeep  or  West  Marina  Station,  the  L.  B.  S.  C.  R. 
Station  for  St.  Leonards,  situated  at  the  extreme  W.  end  of  the  town, 
nearly  1  M.  from  the  Victoria  Hotel.  —  The  hotels  send  Flys  to  meet  the 
principal  trains;  Cab  to  most  of  the  hotels  is.  Qd.  (first-class)  or  is.  (sec- 
ond-class). 

Hotels.  *Queen's,  Carlisle  Parade,  facing  the  sea,  V-J  M.  from  the  rail- 
way-station and  the  pier;  Marine,  ALBIO^f  (R.  from  2s.  6d.),  on  the  Marine 
Parade,  farther  to  the  E. ;  Albany,  Robertson  Terrace,  near  the  Queen's; 
Palace,  a  new  house,  to  the  W.  of  the  Pier,  with  lifts  and  electric  light ; 
Castle,  Wellington  Square,  a  little  back  from  the  sea;  Rotal  Oak,  Castle 
St.,  commercial;  Grosvenor,  White  Rock,  pens.  85.  —  At  St.  Leonards: 
Rotal  Victoria,  Marina,  R.  &  A.  45.  Qd.,  B.  2s.,  D.  5s.,  facing  the  sea, 
well  spoken  of;  Grand,  Verulam  Place,  opposite  the  Pier;  Eversfield, 
R.  &  A.  As.  6d.,  B.  2,  D.  5s.,  Alexandra,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  B.  2s.,  D.  5s.  Qd., 
both  in  Eversfield  Place;  Rotal  Saxon,  Grand  Parade,  all  these  close  to 
the  sea;  Warrior  House,  Edinburgh,  Gifford's  (pens,  from  7s.  6d.), 
three  private  hotels  in  Warrior  Square.  —  Hydropathic  Establishment, 
Old  London  Road,  Hastings.  —  Furnished  Apartments  a,ni  Boarding  Houses 
in  all  parts  of  the  town. 

Restaurants.  At  the  Queen s  Hotel,  see  above;  Ballard,  17  Castle  St. ; 
Addison,  32  Rock  Place;  Buffet  at  the  Hastings  Station. 

Omnibuses  ply  at  frequent  intervals  from  the  Albert  Memorial  to  the 
Victoria  Hotel,  Bopeep,  the  Alexandra  Park,  the  top  of  High  St.,  Ore, 
and  Silverhill  (fares  Id..  2d.,  3rf.). 

Cabs.  First-class  cabs  for  1-5  pers.  3s.  per  hr.,  each  addit.  74  tr.  9d. ; 
per  mile  Is.  Qd.,  each  addit.  1/2  ^I-  9(f. ;  second-class  cabs  for  1-4  pers. 
2s.  6c/.,  Vj^d.,  Is.,  Qd.;  no  extra  charge  for  luggage.  Carriage  drawn  by 
hand  or  by  donkey  or  mule,  Is.  per  hr.  for  1  pers.,  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  3d. 

Pleasure  Boats.  Rowing  Boat,  per  hr.  2s.  6(/.,  each  addit.  1/2  lir.  Is.; 
Sailing  Boat,  5-lOs.  per  hr.  according  to  size.  Excursion  in  Sailing  Yachts, 
is.  each  person.  —  An  Excursion  Steamer  also  plies  in  summer  to  East- 
bourne, Brighton,  Dover,  etc. 

Baths.  Hastings  Baths,  White  Rock  Place,  with  a  very  large  swim- 
ming-basin, baths  l,?.-2s.  6d.  ;  Faulkner's  Turkish  Baths,  adjacent,  bath 
2s.  6c?.,  after  5  p.m.  Is.  9d. ;  Royal  Baths,  at  St.  Leonards,  opposite  the 
Victoria  Hotel;  Pelham  Baths,  Pelham  Place,  Hastings;  Fublic  Corporation 
Baths,  Bourne  St. 

Bathing  Places  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  several  points  along  the 
beach,  indicated  by  notice-boards.  In  rough  weather  the  bathers  are  ad- 
vised not  to  quit  their  hold  of  the  rope  attached  to  the  bathing-machines. 

Hastings  and  St.  Leonards  are  now  virtually  one  town  with  abont 
60,000  inhah.,  in  great  repute  as  a  bathing-resort  and  winter-residence. 
St.  Leonards,  beyond  the  Archway,  forms  the  W,  end  of  the  double 
town  and  is  purely  a  watering-place,  consistingmainly  of  rows  of  well- 
built  lodging-houses,  while  the  easternmost  part  of  Hastings  retains  the 
picturesque  appearance  of  an  old-fashioned  fishing-town  and  seaport. 
The  sea-front  of  3M.,  along  which  runs  a  fine  esplanade,  is  very 
striking,  and  in  many  respects  more  than  holds  its  own  with  any 
other  watering-place  on  the  S.  coast.  The  best  view  of  it,  with  the 
hills  behind  and  the  ruins  of  the  castle,  is  obtained  from  the  end  of 


40    Route  4.  HASTINGS. 

the  Promenade  Pier  (adm.  '2d.'),  wMcli  runs  out  into  tlie  sea  for 
more  than  900  ft. 

Other  suhurhs  are  growing  up  on  the  hills  at  the  "bact  of  the 
town,  the  most  important  of  which  is  Ore,  a  group  of  pleasant  villas 

on  St.  Helen's  Down  (stat.,  see  p.  41). 

The  name  of  Hastings  is  indissolubly  connected  witli  the  battle  by 
wbicb  the  government  of  England  passed  from  the  Saxons  to  the  Nor- 
mans, though  it  was  fought  at  a  spot  7  M.  distant  (p.  38).  Hastings 
was  also  one  of  the  Cinque  Ports  (i.  e.  the  'live"  great  ports  on  the  S.  E. 
coast;  originally,  Hastings,  Dover,  Sandwich,  Romney,  and  Hythe),  but 
its  harbour  has  now  practically  disappeared.  Traces  of  an  early  settle- 
ment here  have  been  discovered  submerged  in  the  sea,  which  seems  to 
have  made  great  encroachments  on  this  part  of  the  coast. 

On  the  West  Hill,  above  Hastings,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old*Castle 
(adm.  3d.),  of  the  history  of  which  little  is  known,  though  it  claims 
William  the  Conqueror  as  its  founder  or  restorer.  The  ruins  are, 
to  use  Hawthorne's  phrase,  'somewhat  scanty  and  scraggling',  hut 
the  grounds  in  which  they  stand  command  a  splendid  view  of  the 
town  and  sea,  extending  on  the  W.  to  Beachy  Head.  A  tunnel  has 
been  driven  through  the  cliff  from  the  sea-front ,  and  a  lift  con- 
structed for  easy  access  to  the  castle. 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  the  Castle  the  hill  is  partly  undermined  hy 
St.  Clemenfs  Caves  (adm.  6d. ;  illuminated  on  Mon.  and  Thurs. 
after  2  p.m.),  originally  excavated  for  obtaining  sand,  and  afterwards 
a  resort  of  smugglers.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  caves  is  St.  Clement's 
Church,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Hastings  (Perp.;  restored),  whence  we 
may  proceed  to  the  left  (N.)  along  High  Street.  At  the  upper  end 
of  this  street  is  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St.  Mary  Star  of  the  Sea. 
Close  by  is  the  old  Church  of  All  Saints,  a  Perp.  edifice  with  a  fine 
W.  window.  We  may  return  hence  to  the  beach  through  All  Saints' 
St.  and  visit  the  quaint  fishing  quarter  of  Old  Hastings,  with  its  boats 
drawn  up  on  the  beach  and  its  lofty  black  sheds  for  holding  the  nets. 
The  fish  are  sometimes  sold  on  the  beach  here  by  'Dutch  Auction', 
and  there  is  also  a  covered  Fish  Market. 

The  W.  part  of  Hastings  and  St.  Leonards  contain  little  calling 
for  special  mention.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Albert  Me- 
morial, a  Gothic  clock-tower  erected  in  honour  of  the  late  Prince 
Consort,  and  in  Queen's  Road  are  the  Municipal  Buildings  and  the 
Gaiety  Theatre.  A  little  to  the  W. ,  in  Claremont,  is  a  Public  In- 
stitution, presented  to  the  town  by  Lord  Brassey.  —  At  St.  Leonards 
are  two  handsome  modern  churches :  Christchurch,  London  Road,  in 
the  E.  E.  style,  and  St.  Paul's,  Church  Road,  in  the  Dec.  style  (elab- 
orate interior,  with  marble  pillars).  Farther  to  the  W.,  the  hand- 
some St.  Leonard's  Pier,  opened  in  1891,  projects  into  the  sea 
from  the  Marina. 

"Walks.  The  prettiest  short  walk  from  Hastings  is  that  to  Ecclesbourne 
Glen,  Fairlight  Glen,  and  the  Lovers"  Seat  (3V2  M.).  The  best  route  is  the 
path  crossing  the  East  Hill  (250  ft.;  reached  by  steps  from  the  Fish 
Market:  fineview  of  Hastings)  and  then  descending  to  (1  M.)  the  prettily 
wooded  Ecclesbourne  Glen.   Crossing  this  little  valley,  we  ascend  again  on 


WINCHELSEA.  4.  Route.    41 

its  E.  side  and  follow  the  path  along  the  top  of  the  cliffs  to  (IV2  M,)  Fair- 
light  Glen,  another  little  wooded  valley.  Here  we  turn  to  the  left  and 
ascend  along  the  W.  side,  rounding  the  head  of  the  valley  and  passing 
the  (V2  M.)  'Dripping  WelT,  now  almost  dry,  1)eyond  which  we  continue 
to  follow  the  path  leading  along  the  side  of  the  glen  towards  the  S.E.  This 
soon  brings  us  out  again  to  the  open  cliff  and  O/2  M.)  the  "Lovers'  Seat,  a 
rocky  ledge  commanding  a  splendid  view.  Good  walkers  may  vary  the 
return-route  by  turning  landward  from  the  Dripping  Well,  at  the  head 
of  Fairlight  Glen,  and  ascending  past  a  farm  to  OA  M.)  the  highroad. 
Here  we  may  turn  to  the  left  (below,  to  the  right,  the  Hall,  Fairlight)  and 
make  our  way  to  '■Nortits  Sea(\  on  the  top  of  Fairlight  Down  (600ft.), 
occupying  the  circular  site  of  Old  Fairlight  Mill  C'View).  We  now  descend 
via  Ore  (p.  40)  to  Hastings.  —  Excursion-waggonettes  ply  at  intervals  to 
the  farm  above  Fairlight  Glen,  allowing  1  hr.  for  a  visit  to  the  glen  and 
the  Lovers'  Seat  (return-fare  is.  Qd.). 

F^xcuRSio-  Brakes  ply  daily  in  summer  to  (7  M.)  Battle  and  (9  M.) 
Normanhurst  (see  p.  38;  fare  for  the  round  4s.  Gd.),  and  this  drive  may  be 
extended  to  Ashburnham  Place  (not  shown),  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Ash- 
burnham,  containing  some  relics  of  Charles  I.  (shirt  worn  at  his  execution, 
etc.).  —  Another  lovely  drive  may  be  taken  to  (12  M.)  Bodiam  Castle  (p.  37), 
via  the  charming  village  of  (ijM.j  Sedlescomhe,  with  its  interesting  church, 
and  back  by  Novthiam  (near  which  is  an  old  timbered  house)  and  Brede.  — 
Crowhurst,  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  and  3  M.  from  Battle,  is  another  good  point 
for  a  walk  or  a  drive;  it  possesses  the  remains  of  an  old  manor-house 
and  a  gigantic  churchyard-yew.  —  Other  excursions  may  be  made  (usually 
by  railway)  to  Hurstmonceaux  Castle  (p.  52),  Pevensey  (p.  52),  Winchelsea  (see 
below).  Rye  (see  below),  etc. 

From  IIastixgs  to  Rye  axd  Asiiford,  27  M.,  South  Eastern  Railwav 
in  1  hr.  (fares  4s.  10c/.,  3s.  id.,  2s.  2V2f?.).  —  IV'2  M.   Ore  (p.  40). 

9  M.  Winchelsea  (New  Inn),  an  ancient  but  decayed  town,  formerly 
attached  to  the  Cinque  Port  of  Hastings,  possesses  various  memorials  of 
its  former  importance,  the  most  immediately  striking  of  which  are  the 
width  and  regularity  of  its  streets.  The  "^Church  of  Sf.  Thomas  (Becket),  an 
important  early-Decorated  structure  (ca.  1300),  of  which  the  nave  has  long 
since  been  destroyed,  contains  some  good  monuments.  A  little  to  the  S.E. 
of  the  church  is  the  Friars,  a  modern  mansion  built  with  the  materials 
of  an  old  Franciscan  monastery,  of  which  part  of  the  chapel  (1310)  remains 
(adm.  on  Mon.).  Winchelsea  was  formerly  a  walled  town,  and  three  of 
the  old  gates  are  still  standing  :  Pipe  Well  Gate,  Strand  Gate,  and  Land  Gate. 
—  IXear  the  sea.  about  halfway  between  Winchelsea  and  Rye,  is  Camber 
Castle,  one  of  the  coast-defences  erected  by  Henry  VIII.  About  I1/2  M.  to 
the  W.  is  Icklefham,  with  a  Gorman  church. 

11  M.  Kye  (George;  Cinque  Ports)  is  another  decayed  seaport,  ruined, 
like  Winchelsea,  by  the  retirement  of  the  sea;  it  was  also  one  of  the 
secondary  Cinque  Ports.  Its  harbour  is  still  frequented  by  a  few  vessels. 
The  large  Church,  restored  in  18S3,  is  partly  Norman  and  partly  E.  F].,  with 
windows  inserted  at  a  later  date.  The  Ypres  Tower,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
town,  now  the  police-station,  was  erected  as  a  watch-tower  in  the  12th  cent, 
and  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  William  de  Ypres,  Karl  of  Kent.  The 
only  town-gate  remaining  is  the  Land  Gate,  on  the  London  road.  Mermaid 
Street  is  one  of  the  most  quaintly  picturesque  streets  in  England.  After 
the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  many  French  refugees  settled  in 
Rye,  and  have  left  their  mark  on  the  names  of  the  present  inhabitants. 
At  a  later  date  it  was  a  ureat  resort  of  smu^iirlers.  —  An  omnibus  plies 
from  Rye  to  (10  M.)  Tenterden  (White  Lion),  with  a  fine  church,  the  Perp. 
tower  of  which  has  been  held  responsible  for  the  Goodwin  Sands  (see  p.  2i). 

Beyond  Rye  the  train  traverses  Tfowm^y  ITarsA,  an  extensive  level  tract 
with  rich  pastures.  From  (18  M.)  Appledore  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the 
right  to  Lydd ,  Dunjeness,  and  New  Romney  (Ship),  formerly  one  of  the 
Cinque  Ports.  There  is  aliu^hthouse  on  Dunireness  Point.  —  21  M.  Ilam  Street. 

27  M.  Ashford,  see  p."  14. 


42 


5.  From  London  to  Eastbourne.    Newhaven. 


65  M.  London,  Brighton,  and  South  Coast  Railway,  from  Victoria 
or  London  Bridge,  in  13/4-31/4  hrs.  (fares  10s.,  6s.,  As.Sd.-^  return,  available 
for  a  month.  17s.,  11*..  9s.  'id.;  Frid.  to  Mon.  return-tickets  15s.,  10s.  6d., 
6s.).  —  To  Newhaven,  57  M.,  in  I3/4-21/2  lirs.  (fares  9s.  4d.,  5s.  8rf.,  4s  8d.; 
return,  available  fur  a  munth,  16s.  8d.,  10s.  2d.,  8s.  4d. ;  Sat.  to  Mon. 
return-tickets  14s.,  8s.  6d.,  7s.).  Cheap  day-tickets  are  issued  in  the  season 
at  greatly  reduced  fares. 

From  London  to  (STi/o  M.)  Hayward's  Heath,  see  R.  6.  At 
(401/2  ^I-)  Keymer  Junction  our  line  diverges  to  the  left.  —  44  M. 
Plumpton  ;  47  M.  Cooksbridge. 

50  M.  Lewes  (White  Hart,  opposite  the  County  Hall;  Crown, 
High  St. ;  Rail.  Eefreshmt.  Rooms),  the  county-town  of  Sussex,  with 
11,000  inhab.,  is  a  quaint  old  place,  situated  in  the  heart  of  the 
South  Downs.  It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Brighton  on  the  W.  (see 
p.  52},  to  Newhaven  and  Seaford  (see  helow)  on  the  S.,  and  to  East 
Grinstead,  Groombridge,  East  Croydon,  etc.  (p.  45),  on  the  N. 

The  old  Castle  dates  from  the  Xorman  period,  and  has  a  good  gate- 
way and  a  well-preserved  keep  containing  a  small  museum  (adm.  Qd.); 
fine  view  from  the  top  of  the  tower.  The  Priory  of  St.  Pancras,  a  pic- 
turesque ruin  to  the  S.  of  the  town  (adm.  ^d.),  was  founded  by  Gun- 
drada,  step-daughter  of  William  the  Conqueror.  Adjacent  is  Southover 
Church,  with  a  Xorman  chapel,  now  containing  the  leaden  coffins  of  Gun- 
drada  and  her  husband,  William  de  Warrenne.  The  Town  Hall  (built 
1893)  contains  a  fine  old  staircase  of  carved  oak.  The  Fitzroy  Memorial 
Library  was  designed  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  About  2V2  M.  to  the  W.  is 
Alt.  Harry,  where  Henry  III.  was  defeated  by  Simon  de  Montfort  in  1264. 

Feom  Lewes  to  Xewhaven,  7M.,  railway  in  15-20  min.  The  trains  go 
on  to  Newhaven  TTTiar/ (London  and  Paris  Hotel,  R.  3s..  D.  3s.  6d.),  whence 
steam-packets  ply  twice  daily  to  Dieppe  in  4-5  hrs.  (through-tickets  from 
London  to  Paris  issued  by  this  route).  Newhaven  (Bridge  Inn),  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Ouse,  possesses  a  modern  fort  and  an  interesting  church 
with  a  Xorman  tower  and  apsidal  chancel  of  the  12th  century.  —  About 
2  M.  to  the  E.  (railway)  is  Seaford  (Seaford  Bay  Hotel;  Esplanade  Hotel), 
a  sea-bathing  and  golfing  resort. 

The  li)ie  now  skirts  Mount  Caburn  and  Firle  Beacon  (720  ft.}, 
both  of  which  command  extensive  views.  53  M.  Glynde.  About 
21/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  (571/2  M.)  Berwick  is  Alfriston  (Star),  with 
an  interesting  church  and  a  14th  cent,  clergy- house  (recently 
restored).  —  To  the  right  is  the  '■Long  Man  of  Wilmington',  a  figure, 
240  ft.  high,  cut  out  on  the  side  of  the  hill  (p.  43);  it  is  supposed 
to  be  of  Celtic  origin,  perhaps  the  'God  of  Journeying'  mentioned 
by  Ccesar,  and  has  recently  been  restored. 

61  M.  Polegate  Junction  (Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  the  point 
of  divergence  for  lines  to  Hailsham  and  Tunbridge  Wells  (p.  37), 
Hastings  (p.  39),  and  Eastbourne. 

65  M.  Eastbourne.  —  Hotels.  *Q,ueen"s,  r.  <fc.  A.  5«.,  D.  5s.  Qd., 
Albion,  R.  &  A.  4s.  Qd.,  D.  5s.,  ^Anchor,  Marine  Parade;  *Cavendish, 
"Burlington  (R.  &  A.  from  5s.,  D.  5s.  6d.),  Grand  Parade;  Grand,  Cliff 
(pens,  in  winter  10s.  Qd.);  these  all  first-class,  facing  the  sea.  —  Sussex, 
Devonshire  Park;  Gildredge,  commercial,  close  to  the  station;  South- 
down, R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  5s.  —  Numerous  Boarding  Houses  and  Lodgings.  •— 
Railway  Refreshment  Booms. 

Cabs,  for  1-5  pers.,  Is.  per  mile,   Qd.  each  addit.  V-'  ^^-i  P^^  t^r.  3s., 


EASTBOURNE,  5.  Route.     43 

or  each  1/4  hr.  addit.  9d.  •,  2nd  and  3rd  class  vehicles  at  lower  rates. 
—  Omnibus  between  the  town  and  the  station  2d.  —  Horse,  2«.  6c?.,  Fony 
or  M'de  1.5.,  Donkey  8d.  per  hr. ;  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  6d,,  3d.,  or  2d. 

Bathing.  Use  oi  Bathing  Machines  {noi  compulsory  before  8  a.m.)  9d., 
per  do7,.  tickets  8s.  —  Baths  at  Devonshire  Park,  with  swimminj^-basins,  etc. 

Eastbourne^  a  watering-place  "wliioh  of  late  has  teen  rapidly 
growing  in  popularity,  lies  near  the  S.  E.  end  of  the  South  Downs, 
and  consists  of  the  new  town  on  the  sea  and  the  old  town  II/2  M. 
inland.  Pop.  34,250.  The  sea-front,  ahout2M.  in  length,  is  flanked 
with  a  substantial  Esplanade,  at  the  E.  end  of  which  is  the  Great 
Redoubt,  a  circular  battery  mounting  11  guns  ,  while  near  the  E, 
end  is  a  martello  tower  known  as  the  '  Wish\  Near  Splash  Point, 
about  the  centre  of  the  Esplanade,  an  iron  Pier  juts  out  into  the 
sea  for  a  distance  of  1000  ft,  Devonshire  Park,  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
Esplanade,  has  gardens  (bands),  a  large  pavilion,  and  lawn-tennis 
courts.  The  Church  of  All  Souls  is  a  handsome  modern  Byzantine 
structure;  and  Old  Eastbourne  Church  is  an  interesting E.E.  edifice, 
with  a  Norman  chancel-arch.  Opposite  is  the  Lamb  Inn,  below 
which  is  a  vaulted  crypt,  also  of  the  E.E.  period.  The  handsome 
Town  Hall  has  a  tower  130  ft.  high.  Golf-links  have  been  laid  out 
behind  Compton  Place,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  between 
the  old  and  new  towns.  On  the  road  to  Beachy  Head  is  Hoddeslea, 
long  the  residence  of  Prof.  Huxley  (d,  1895). 

About  3  M.  to  the  S.  W.  of  Eastbourne  the  South  Downs  termin- 
ate in  *  Beachy  Head  ('Beauchef'),  a  bold  chalk  headland,  rising 
to  a  height  of  575  ft.  above  the  sea  [fine  view).  It  may  be  reached 
either  by  road  (carr.  there  and  back,  with  halt  of  V2  ^r.,  6«.)  or  by 
a  footpath  along  the  cliffs.  The  Beachy  Head  or  Belle  Toute  Light- 
house is  2  M.  farther  to  the  W. 

Excursions.  The  immediate  environs  of  Eastbourne  afford  few  in- 
terestin<i  walks,  and  the  favourite  excursions  are  those  made  by  carriage 
or  by  rail,  such  as  Eurstmonceaui  (p.  52;  from  Hailsham  or  Pevensey)  and 
Pevensey  Castle  (^.bl).  An  excursion-brake  also  runs  to  (1631.)  Battle  (p,  37; 
return-fare  55.).  Pedestrians  may  walk  across  the  Downs  to  the  X.W.  to 
(7  M.)  the  scanty  remains  of  Wilmington  Priory,  an  offshoot  of  a  Benedic- 
tine abbey  in  Normandy.  The  'Wilminirton  Giant'  (p.  42)  is  a  little  to 
the  S.  This  walk  may  be  extended  to  Michelham  Priory,  an  Augustine  founda- 
tion of  the  13th  cent.,  4M,  to  theX.  It  was  once  fortified  and  is  now  a  farm- 
house, l)ut  there  are  manv  interestin'.:  remains  of  the  old  buildings.  Michel- 
ham  is  3  M,  from  Berwick  (p.  42)  and  21/2  31.  from  Hailsham  (p.  37). 

6.  From  London  to  Brighton. 

Railway  (L.,  B..  &  S.  C.)  fmm  London  Bridge  and  Victoria  stations 
fol  M.)  in  11/4-3  hrs. ;  from  Kensington,  V*  hr.  longer.  Fares  10s..  65.  6d.. 
4s.  2V2d. ;  return-tickets,  available  for  one  month,  155.,  10s.,  7s,  6d.,  from 
Frid.  to  Tues.  14s.,  Ss,  6d.,  6«.  4d. ;  cheap  day  return-tickets  are  often 
issued  at  little  more  than  single  fares,  sometimes  including:  admission  to  the 
Pavilion  and  Aquarium  (pp.  49,  50).  The  'Pullman  Limited  Express',  leaving 
London  at  10.5  a.m.  and  3.50  p.m.  (Sun.  at  10.45  a.m.)  and  Brighton  at 
1.20  and  5.45  p.m.  (Sun.  at  8.40  p.m.),  consists  i)f  Pullman  and  first-class 
carriages  only  (return-fare,  for  the  same  day,  12s.  6d.).  The  lines  from 
Victoria  and  Kensington  unite  with  the  line  from  Limdon  Bridge  at  (IO1/4  M.) 
East  Croydon.    Alternative  route  thence  via  East  Grinstead,  see  p.  45. 


44     Route  6.  CROYDON.  From  London 

Coach  from  London  (Hotel  Metropole)  to  (53  M.)  Brigliton  (Old  Ship) 
on  Tues..  Thurs.,  &  Sat.  in  summer  in  6  hrs.  (fare  155. ;  box-seat  2s.  Qd. 
extra).     The  district  traversed  is  fertile  and  picturesque. 

Leaving  London  Bridge,  the  train  traverses,  by  means  of  a  lofty 
viaduct,  272^-  in  length,  the  manufacturing  and  unattractive 
district  of  Bermondsey.  The  red  hrick  huilding  at  (3M.)  New  Cross 
is  the  Royal  Naval  School,  founded  in  1843.  The  line  next  passes 
(4  M.)  Brockley,  (5M.)  Honor  Oak  Park,  and  (01/2  M.)  Forest  Hill, 
prettily  situated  amid  numerous  pleasant  country-residences.  Beyond 
(_6i/4M.)  Sydenham  we  see  the  Crystal  Palace  (^seeBaedekers  Hand- 
book for  London)  on  our  right,  200  ft.  ahove  us.  TM.  Penge;  71/9  M. 
Anerley.  To  the  left  stands  the  dark-red  Freemasons'  Asylum. 
Beyond  Anerley,  on  an  eminence  to  the  right,  is  the  Surrey  County  In- 
dustrial School,  where  upwards  of  1000  poor  children  are  brought  up. 

At  (8^2  M-)  Norwood  Junction,  the  station  for  the  pretty  and 
growing  suburb  of  South  Norwood,  the  line  is  joined  by  one  of  the 
West  End  branches  of  the  same  company  from  Victoria.  Just  be- 
fore joining  the  main  line  this  branch  traverses  Upper  Norwood 
(Queen's  Hotel;  Crystal  Palace),  one  of  the  chief  residential  suburbs 
on  the  S.  side  of  London  (station  at  Gipsy  Hill). 

In  a  wooded  vale  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Upper  Norwood  lay  Beulah 
Spa,  once  much  frequented,  but  now  built  over.  On  Beulah  Hill  is  the 
Beulah  Spa  Residential  Hotel  (from  9s.  per  day;  Turkish  and  other  baths). 
Near  it  is  Streatham,  where  Dr.  Johnson  often  visited  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thrale. 
—  From  Norwood  diverges  a  branch  to  Epsom  and  Dorking  (comp.  p.  59). 

101/4  M.  East  Croydon,  one  of  the  five  stations  at  Croydon 
(*Greyhound;  Crown;  Rail.  Re freshmt.  Rooms),  with  103,000  in- 
hab.,  now  practically  forming  a  suburb  of  London.  The  scenery  of  the 
surrounding  district,  which  is  thickly  dotted  with  country-houses, 
is  very  pleasing.  The  lower  part  of  the  town  contains  the  remains 
of  an  Archiepiscopal  Palace,  formerly  the  country-residence  of  the 
Archbishops  of  Canterbury.  The  extensive  remains  of  the  old 
building  include  the  lofty  dining-hall  and  the  chapel  (16th  cent.). 
The  Church  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  originally  built  at  the  beginning 
of  the  15th  cent.,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1867,  and  re-erected  by  Sir 
G.  G.  Scott,  contains  the  tombs  of  several  archbishops.  Near  the 
middle  of  the  town  is  Whitgiffs  Hospital,  an  Elizabethan  insti- 
tution, connected  with  which  is  a  large  grammar-school.  Li  High 
St.  is  the  Grand  Theatre  and  Opera  House,  opened  in  1896. 

Pedestrians  will  find  that  the  following  round  of  10tol2M.,  with  its 
numerous  views  of  characteristic  English  scenery,  will  amply  repay  the 
fatigue  (comp.  Map,  p.  12).  Starting  from  Croydon,  we  proceed  first  to  the 
S.  to  (2V2  M.)  Sandevstead.  a  pretty  village,  with  an  interesting  church  and 
park,  which  we  reach  by  following  the  Brighton  road  (tramway)  to  the  Red 
Deer  Inn  and  then  turning  to  the  left.  [A  slight  detour  to  the  left  will  take 
us  by  picturesque  footpaths  to  Crohamhurst  (pron.  Croomhurst).]  At  Sander- 
stead  we  turn  to  the  left  (E.)  and  walk  to  (2'/2  M.)  Addington.  where  the 
present  country-house  of  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  is  situated;  the 
church,  of  which  the  interior  is  Xorman,  is  interesting  to  antiquarians. 
Archbp.  Tait  (d.  1882)  is  buried  in  the  churchyard.  From  Addington  we 
proceed  to  the  N.  (left)  to  (V-h  M.)  We$t  Wickham,  with  an  ancient  church, 
3/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  the  picturesque  ivy-clad  country-seat  of  Wick- 


to  Brighton.  REDHILL.  6.  Route.     45 

ham  Court.  From  Wickham  we  may  return  to  Croydon  direct,  across  the 
Addington  Hills.,  in  !'/•»  hr. 

From  East  Croydon  to  Lewes,  39V2  M.,  railway  in  2  hrs.  (fares  6<.  Gd., 
ii.  id.,  3s.  3d.).  This  line  offers  an  alternative  bnt  less  convenient  route  to 
Brighton  and  to  Eastbourne.  —  IV4  M.  Selsdon  Road;  2  M.  Saiuhirstmd  (9,Q<i 
p.  44);  5M.  Upper  Warlingham;  63  4  M.  Woldin^ham.  —  From  (10  M.)  Oxted 
a  branch  diverges  via  Edenbridge  (p.  13)  and  Groomhridge  (p.  37)  in  Tun- 
bridge  Wells  (p.  35).  —  191/2  M.  East  Grinstead  (Dorset  Arms;  Queen's),  a 
pleasant  town  with  5180  inhab.,  is  the  junction  for  Three  Bridges  (p.  46), 
on  the  W.,  and  Groombridge  (p.  37),  on  the  E.  —  26  M.  Horsted  Keynea 
was  the  retirement  and  burial-place  of  Archbp.  Leighton  (d.  1084),  whose 
house,  Broadhurst.  may  still  be  seen.  A  branch-line  hence  joins  tlie  main 
Brighton  line  at  Haywards  Heath  (p.  47).  —  301/2  M.  Sheffield  Park.  At 
Fleiching,  3  M.  to  the  E.  (or  2  31.  through  Sheffield  Park,  for  which  permis- 
sion must  be  obtained),  is  the  church  in  which  Edward  Gibbon  (d.  1794) 
is  interred.  —  35V4  M.  Barcombe.  —  3972  M.  Lewes  (p.  42). 

On  the  left,  beyond  CIOV2  M.)  South  Croydon,  is  Purley  House, 
where  John  Home  Tooke  wrote  his  'Diversions  of  Purley'.  On  a 
hill  to  the  right  are  the  large  and  handsome  Warehousemen  and 
Clerks'  Schools. 

13  M.  Purley,  -whence  a  branch- line  diverges  to  Caterham, 
4^2  M.  to  the  S.E.  To  the  left  is  the  Reedham  Orphan  Asylum, 
founded  by  the  Rev.  Andrew  Reed;  and  to  the  right,  farther  on, 
above  (15  M.)  Coulsden  (S.E.R.  station),  is  the  London  County  Luna- 
tic Asylum  at  Cane  Hill.  The  train  now  passes  through  a  long  cut- 
ting, and  penetrates  the  North  Downs  by  a  tunnel  upwards  of  1  M. 
long.  At  the  end  of  the  tunnel  lies  Merstham,  a  station  of  the  S.E.R. 
only,  with  a  church  of  the  end  of  the  12th  cent,  (still  interesting  in 
spite  of  'restoration').  On  the  right  we  obtain  a  view  ofGattonPark 
(Mr.  J.  Colman);  the  Great  Hall  (adm.  on  week-days)  is  very  fine. 

From  Merstham  to  Chipstead,  a  pleasant  walk  of  about  4  31.;  to  Reigate 
(see  below),  through  Gatton  Park,  another  interesting  route,  531.  The  rich 
carvings  in  the  church  at  Gatton  are  of  Belgian  workmanship ;  the  beautiful 
altar  and  pulpit  came  from  ^Nuremberg,  and  are  ascribed  to  Albrecht 
Diirer.  Gatton  is  notorious  for  having  been  among  the  rottenest  of  rotten 
boroughs,  seven  electors  at  one  time  sending  two  members  to  parliament. 

Just  before  reaching  Redhill  we  pass  St.  Anne's  Asylum,  ac- 
commodating 400  children.  —  20^/4  M.  Redhill  (Laker's;  Warwick 
Arms;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  or  Warwicktown,  with  about 
13,000  inhab,,  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Dover  on  the  E.  (see 
p.  12),  and  Reigate,  Dorking,  Guildford,  and  Reading  on  the  W. 
(see  below).  To  the  left,  2/4  M.  distant,  is  the  admirably  organised 
Agricultural  School  of  the  Philanthropic  Society,  a  reformatory  for 
about  300  young  criminals  (visitors  admitted).  This  society  was 
founded  in  1788,  and  is  the  parent  of  about  100  similar  institutions 
in  England.  The  white  sand  of  this  district  is  much  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  porcelain. 

From  Eedhill  to  Gdildford,  201/2  31.,  S.E.  Railway  in  3/4-1  ^r.  (fares 
4*.  id.,  3s.,  1«.  8i/2<^.)-  This  line  runs  through  a  very  picturesque  district 
and  offers  the  best  route  for  tourists  desiring  to  visit  both  Dorking  and 
Guildford. 

2  31.  Reigate  (While  Hart.,  well  spoken  of;  Crouii),  a  pleasant-looking 
old  town  with  22,650  inhab.,  lying  in  the  midst  of  very  attractive  scenery, 
is  a  favourite  residence  of  London  merchants.    'Reigate  Sand'  is  much  in 


46     Route  6.  THREE  BRIDGES.  From  London 

request  for  florists  and  glass-makers.  Below  the  remains  of  the  old  Castle 
is  the  Barons'"  Cave,  in  which,  according  to  a  baseless  tradition,  the  barons 
met  to  concert  the  terms  of  Magna  Charta.  The  castle-groiinds  are  prettily- 
laid  out.  The  Parish  Churchy  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  contains  curious 
monuments  and  some  early  pillars  in  the  nave.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  town 
are  Reigate  Priory  (Lady  Henry  Somerset),  with  pleasant  grounds,  and 
Reigaie  Park^  commanding  a  beautiful  view.  —  To  the  W.,  on  the  way 
to  Dorking,  lies  Reigate  Heath,  a  pleasant  spot  for  a  ramble.  —  From 
(IV2M.)  Reigate  Hill,  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  is  obtained  a  charming  'View 
of  the  Weald  of  Sussex,  enclosed  between  the  North  and  South  Downs. 
The  descent  may  be  made  on  the  X.  side  to  (IV2M.)  Gallon  (p.  45).  — 
Pedestrians  will  "find  themselves  repaid  by  walking  from  Reigate  to  (6  M.) 
Dorking  (see  below),  either  by  the  highroad  across  Reigate  Heath  (see 
above)  and  through  Betchworth,  or  by  following  the  ridge  of  the  Xorth 
Downs  to  Box  Hill  (see  below)  and  then  descending  to  the  left. 

Beyond  Reigate  the  train  continues  to  skirt  the  S.  base  of  the  North 
Downs.  41/2  M.  Betchworth,  a  pretty  village  on  the  J/oZe,  the  banks  of  which 
between  this  and  Dorking  are  very  picturesque.  Betchworth  Park  lies 
IV2  M.  farther  to  the  W.,  and  may  be  crossed  by  those  approaching  Dork- 
ing on  foot.  —  7  M.  Boxhill  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  (590  ft. ;  charm- 
ing view)  so  named  from  the  box-plants  with  which  it  is  covered.  The 
descent  may  be  made  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  hill  to  Burford  Bridge,  with 
a  good  inn,  in  which  Keats  wrote  his  'Endymion'"  (room  shown).  —  8  M. 
Dorking,  see  p.  59.  I2V2  M.  Gomshall  is  the  station  for  the  villages  of 
Gomshall  (Black  Horse)  and  Shere  (White  Horse),  the  latter  a  charming 
little  place,  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  station,  with  a  picturesque  church  and 
a  timber -built  parsonage.  About  21/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  station  is 
Abinger  (Abinger  Hatch),  a  small  village  with  an  interesting  and  very 
early  church  and  the  old  stocks  and  whipping-post.  Gomshall  is  also  the 
nearest  station  to  (2V4  M.)   Wotton  (p.  60). 

161/2  M.  Chilworth  is  the  station  for  Albury,  a  village  about  1  M.  to 
the  X.E.,  the  most  prominent  feature  in  which  is  the  large  Irvingite  Church 
in  the  Perp.  style,  built  by  the  late  Mr.  Drummond.  The  old  Church, 
said  to  be  the  most  ancient  in  the  county,  has  be3n  converted  into  a 
mortuary  chapel  (no  adm.).  Both  churches  are  in  Albury  Park,  which  now 
belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Drummond. 
Mr.  Martin  Tupper  (d.  1889),  of  'Proverbial  Philosophy'  fame,  lived  at 
Albury.  The  village  of  Chilworth,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  station,  is  the 
best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  (V2  hr.)  St.  Martha's  Church,  which  occupies 
an  isolated  and  conspicuous  position  on  the  hill  above  it.  This  interest- 
ing Norman  edifice  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  for  the  use  of  pil- 
grims on  their  way  to  Canterbury;  and  a  trace  of  its  old  purpose  remains 
in  the  quasi-pilgrimage  still  made  to  it  on  Good  Friday  by  the  people  of 
the  neighbourhood.     The  'View  from  the  church  is  very  extensive. 

Beyond  (ISV2  M.)  Shalford  the  train  crosses  the  Wey,  turns  to  the  right 
through  a  tunnel,  and  reaches  (20V2  M.)  Guildford,  see  p.  63. 

[From  Guildford  this  branch  of  the  S.  E.  R.  is  continued  to  Ath  (the 
iunction  of  a  short  branch  to  Aldershot  Town).  Aldershot  (N.  Camp  ;  comp. 
p.  75),  Farnhorough  (p.  75).  Blackwater  (the  station  for  Sandhurst  Military 
College},  Wellington  College  (a  well  known  public  school),  Wokingham, 
Earley,  and  (46  M.)  Reading  (see  p.  103).] 

211/2  M.  Earlswood,  "beyond  -which,  on  the  left,  is  the  hand- 
some and  well  -  known  Asylum  for  Idiots  (600  inmates) ,  also 
founded  hy  the  Rev.  Andrew  Reed  (see  p.  45;  open  to  visitors  on 
Tues.).  The  train  now  crosses  two  tributaries  of  the  small  river 
Mole,  and  2M.  beyond  (25 V2  ^^0  Sorley  (Chequers)  enters  Sussex. 

29  M.  Three  Bridges  (Refreshment  Rooms),  the  junction  of 
lines  to  East  Grinstead  (p.  45)  and  Tunbridge  Wells  (-p.  36)  on  the 
E.,  and  to  Horsham  (p.  61)  and  Ford  Junction  (seep.  53)  on  theW. 


to  Brighton.  BRIGHTON.  6.  Route.     47 

At  Worth,  a  small  village  about  IV2  M.  from  Three  Bridges,  is  a  dimin- 
utive "Church,  dating  certainly  from  before  the  Conquest,  but  spoiled  by 
modern  restoration.  The  beautiful  "Forest  of  Worth  is  a  favourite  resort 
of  painters.  Fossil  plants  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  a  sandstone 
quarry  near  the  village. 

The  line  next  traverses  a  portion  of  the  very  ancient  Tilgate 
Forest,  crosses  another  branch  of  the  Mole,  and,  threading  a  tunnel 
3/4 M.  in  length,  reaches  (5V2M.)  Balcombe  (Inn),  whence  a  pictur- 
esque walk  may  be  taken  to  (5  M.)  SLaugham,  with  the  extensive 
ruins  of  Slauyham  Place,  a  Jacobean  mansion,  and  (11  M.)  Horsham 
(p.  61).  In  the  park  of  Leonardslee,  at  Loicer  Beeding,  2M.  from 
Slaugham,  kangaroos  and  beavers  have  been  acclimatized.  Beyond 
Balcombe  the  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Oust  by  means  of  a 
viaduct  of  37  arches,  1400  ft.  long  and  100  ft.  high  in  the  middle. 
To  the  left  we  obtain  a  view  of  ArdingUy  College,  a  school  for 
450  boys.  —  37^2  ^1-  Hayward's  Heath  (Station  Hotel). 

To  the  W.  (2'/2  M. ;  omnibus,  6d.)  is  the  pleasing  little  town  of 
Cuckfield  (King's  Head;  Talbot),  with  Cuckfield  Place,  a  mansion  in  a 
fine  park,  in  the  vicinity.  —  Branch-lines  diverge  from  Haywards  Heath 
to  Horsted  Keynes  (p.  45)  and  to  Lewes  CNewhaven,  Eastbourne,  Hastings; 
see  p.  42). 

To  the  left  lies  the  Sussex  Lunatic  Asylum.  40^2  M.  Keymer 
Junction,  for  Lewes,  Newhaven,  Hastings,  etc.;  41 1/2  M.  Burgess 
Hill;  431/2  M.  Hassocks.  Ditchling  Beacon  (813ft.  ;  wide  view), 
3M.  to  the  E.,  is  the  highest  point  in  Sussex.  On  the  top  are 
remains  of  an  ancient  entrenchment,  probably  of  Roman  origin. 

Hurstpierpoint  Park,  2V2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Hassocks,  deserves  a 
visit  for  the  sake  of  its  noble  old  oaks.  Wolstonbury  Beacon,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, shows  traces  of  a  cruciform  camp,  probably  British.  The  walk 
across  the  Downs ,  past  the  DeviVs  Dyke  (p.  51) ,  to  Brighton,  a  distance 
of  about  8  31. ,  is  very  interesting.  On  the  Downs  graze  about  half  a 
million  sheep,  yielding  the  famous  'South  Down  mutton'. 

The  line  passes  through  the  range  of  the  South  Down  Hills  by 
means  of  the  Clayton  Tunnel,  which  is  2240  yds.  in  length,  and 
takes  2  min.  to  traverse.  Beyond  it  is  a  short  tunnel.  On  the 
left  we  see  a  portion  of  Stanmer  Park,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of 
Chichester.  The  line  next  passes  (49^/2  M.)  Preston  Park  (PI.  B,  2), 
whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  West  Brighton  (Sussex  Hotel)  and 
Worthing  (p.  52),  and  it  then  descends  to  — 

51  M.  Brighton.  —  Railway  Stations.  The  Central  Station  (PI.  D, 
E,  4)  is  at  the  N.  end  of  Queen's  Road  and  is  connected  with  the  suburban 
stations  of  Preston  Park  (PI.  B,  2;  see  above),  West  Brighton  (PI.  A,  4; 
p.  52),  London  Road  (PI.  E,  3;  p.  52),  Lewes  Road  (PI.  F,  3),  and  Kemp 
Town  (PI.  G,  5;  p.  50;  train  to  the  last  in  10  min.). 

Hotels.  On  the  Esplanade,  facing  the  sea :  to  the  W.  of  West  Street 
(Pl.D,  6):  MfeTKOPOLE  (PI.  b;  D,  6),  K.  from  3s.  6d.,  A.  is.  Qd..  B.  Qs.  to 
35.  Gd.,  de'j.  85.  Qd.,  D.  65.,  pens,  from  il.  iXs.  Qd.  per  week;  Grand 
Hotel  (PI.  a;  D.  G),  near  the  W.  Pier,  pens.  IO5.  Qd.,  more  in  the  season; 
Bedford  (PI.  c;  C,  6);  Norfolk  (PI.  d;  C,  6);  to  the  E.  of  West  Street, 
Hamblin's  (PI.  e;  D,  E,  6);  *Old  Ship  (PI.  f);  Harrison's  (PI.  g;  E,  6); 
Markwell's  Eotal  (PL  i);  Queen's,  a  large  and  handsome  building 
(PI.  k);  Clarendon  (PL  1),  pens,  from  3/.  35.  per  week;  RotalYork  (PI.  m; 
E,  6);  'Albion  (PI.  n);  Albemarle  (PI.  oV,  Haxell's  (PI.  r;  E,  0);  New 
Steine  Hotel   (PI.  s;  F,   6),   pens.  3;.  iOs.    per  week;  Eotal  Crescent 


48     Route  6.  BRIGHTON.  From  London 

(PI.  w;  F,6),  farther  to  the  E.,  on  the  Marine  Parade;  Bristol  (PI.  z;  G,6), 
at  Kemp  Town;  all  these  are  of  the  first  class:  R.  from  25.  6cZ.,  B.  2s. 
Qd.  to  35.,  D.  from  35.  Qd.,  A.  I5.  Qd.  to  25.  Gd.  The  hotels  in  the  streets 
to  the  N.  of  the  Esplanade  are  cheaper,  and  some  of  them  are  quite 
near  the  sea:  New  Ship  (PI.  t;  E,  6),  Ship  Street;  Gloucester  (PI.  u; 
E,  5),  Is'orth  Steine;  King's  Aems,  George  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.  6d. ;  Fifth 
AvENDE  Hotel,  Manchester  St.,  pens.  9s.  Qd.;  Pavilion,  Castle  Sq.; 
White  Liox  (Pl.  v;  D,  5),  Queen's  Road,  commercial.  — In  Queen^s  Road 
are  several  small  second-class  houses,  suitable  for  single  gentlemen  only 
(R.  Is.  Qd.  to  2s.,  D.  Is.  Qd.  to  25.  Qd.).  —  The  numerous  Boaeding  Houses 
are  usually  comfortable,  and,  except  during  the  height  of  the  season,  not 
exorbitant  (5s.  6c;.-10s.  Qd.  per  day). 

Restaurants.  Co7icert  Hall  (Melisoni),  "West  Street,  near  the  Espla- 
nade ;  Sweeting's  Oyster  et  Luncheon  Rooms,  on  the  groundfloor  of  the  Or- 
leans Club,  at  the  corner  of  West  St.  and  King's  Road.  On  the  Esplanade: 
^Mutton's;  Grand  Hotel  Restaurant;  MarkwelVs  (see  p.  47);  at  the  Albemarle 
Hotel.  In  East  Street,  near  the  Esplanade:  Reichart;  Booth;  The  Bristol; 
Cafi  Royal .^  D.  8s;  Aquarium  Restaurant.  —  Bodega.,  10  Ship  St.  —  Con- 
fectionees  :  Maynard ,  West  St.;  Sayer.,  Western  Road;  Booth,  Fuller, 
East  Street.  —  Ices:  La  Cremerie,  18  East  Street;  Mikado,  Esplanade. 

Baths.  The  Sea-bathing  Stations  are  in  front  of  the  Esplanade;  the 
beach  is  stony.  Bathing-machines  (with  towels,  etc.)  for  gentlemen  Qd., 
for  ladies  9d.  Swimmers  may  bathe  from  the  pier-head  before  8  a.m., 
and  gentlemen  may  bathe  without  a  machine  at  the  public  bathing- 
places  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  the  pier,  indicated  by  notice-boards,  be- 
tween 8  p.m.  and  8  a.m.  The  bathing-machines  are  lowered  to  the 
sea  by  windlasses.  —  'Turkish  Baths,  59  West  Street,  bath  2s.  Qd.,  after 
6  p.m.  Is.  Qd.  (reserved  for  ladies  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  forenoon) ;  MUropole 
Turkish  Baths,  at  the  Hotel  Me'tropole  (p.  47);  *'Warm,  Vapour,  Swimming, 
and  other  Baths  at  BriWs ,  77  and  78  East  Street,  near  the  Esplanade; 
Hohden^s,  adjoining  the  Grand  Hotel;  Brunswick  Baths,  2  Western  Street. 
—  Electric  d;  Galvanic  Baths,  11  York  Place. 

Theatres.  Royal  (PI.  E,  6),  New  Road,  for  operas  and  dramas.  Aqua- 
rium Theatre;  Gaiety,  Lewes  Road.  —  Music  Halls.  Brighton  Alhambra, 
King's  Road,  near  the  Grand  Hotel ;  Empire,  North  Street. 

Music.  A  band  plays  two  or  three  times  daily  on  the  Pitr,  in  the 
Esplanade  Gardens  to  the  W.,  on  the  roof  of  the  Aquarium  (p.  50),  and 
in  some  of  the  'steines'.  —  Promenade  and  other  Concerts  are  frequently 
given  in  the  Pavilion  (p.  49). 

Post  Office,  Ship  Street.  —  The  Principal  Telegraph  Office  is  at  the 
Old  Steine;  sub -offices  also  at  the  Head  Post  Office,  the  West  Pier,  the 
Railway  Station,  etc. 

Cabs.  First-class  (1-4  pers.),  per  hr.  3s.,  per  mile  Is. ;  to  the  hotels 
on  the  Parade  Is.  6d.-2s.  Second-class  (1-2  pers.),  per  hr.  2s.,  per  mile 
and  a  half  Is. ;  to  the  nearer  hotels  Is.  and  to  the  more  distant  Is.  Qd. 
Pony-chaises,  goat-carriages,  etc.,  cheaper.  —  Fare  and  a  half  between 
12  and  2  a.m.,  double  fare  from  2  to  6  a.m.  —  For  each  article  of  luggage 
carried  outside,  when  there  are  more  than  2  passengers,  3d.  —  Donkeys, 
Qd.  per  hr.  —  Bicycles  and  Tricycles,  Is.  per  hr.  —  Porter  to  the  nearer 
hotels,  3d.  per  package. 

Omnibuses  run  at  frequent  intervals  through  the  principal  thorough- 
fares to  Hove,  Kemp  Town,  Preston,  Lewes  Road,  Rottingdean  {Qd.),  and 
Portslade.  —  Electric  Tramway  from  the  Aquarium  to  Kemp  Town  (2d., 
return  3d.).  —  Seashore  Electric  Railway  from  Brighton  to  (3  M.)  Rotting- 
dean (Qd.;  cars  hourly  in  both  directions)  in  about  1/2 lir.  (p.  5(J). 

Boats.  Sailing-boats,  5-lOs.  per  hr.,  according  to  size;  Rowing-boats, 
2s.  Qd.  per  hr.  Without  boatmen,  cheaper.  Sailing  parties  are  organised 
by  the  boatmen  in  summer,  each  passenger  paying  is.  —  In  summer  a 
Steamer  makes  excursions  to  Hastings,  Eastbourne,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  etc, 

Sussex  County  Cricket  Ground,  at  Hove.  —  Hove  Rink  d-  Lawn  Tennis 
Courts,  Selborne  Road,  Vi  M.  from  West  Brighton  Station  (adm.  Qd.).  Lawn 
Tennis  Courts  also  in  Preston  Road  (PI.  D,  3;  3d.)  and  in  the  Pavilion 
grounds. 


to  Brighton.  BRIGHTON.  0.  Route.     49 

Brighton  Races  in  Aug.  and  Nov.,  on  the  race-course  on  White  Hawk 
Down,  to  the  E.  of  the  town  (p.  51).  —  Good  Hunting  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Brighton,  now  by  far  the  most  frequented  seaside-resort  in  the 
British  Islands,  with  a  population  of  142,100  (including  Hove) 
and  an  annual  influx  of  over  50, 000  tourists  and  visitors,  lies  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill,  in  the  middle  of  a  broad  and  shallow  bay,  which  is 
terminated  on  the  W.  by  the  point  called  Selsea  Bill,  and  on  the  E. 
by  Beachy  Head.  The  chief  attractions  of  the  place  are  its  clear 
and  bracing  air,  the  fine  expanse  of  sea  bordered  by  white  chalk 
cliffs,  its  bathing-facilities,  and  its  gay  crowds  of  visitors.  Thackeray 
highly  appreciated  these  advantages  and  has  sung  the  praises  of 
'Dr.  Brighton'  in  'The  Newcomes\  Brighton  is  noted  for  its  col- 
leges and  high-class  schools  for  girls  and  boys. 

The  original  name  of  Brighton  was  Brighthelmston,  from  Brighthelm,  an 
Anglo-Saxon  bishop,  who  is  reputed  to  have  founded  it  in  the  10th  century, 
and  tun,  a  town.  That  the  Romans  had  a  settlement  here  is  proved  by 
the  numerous  coins  and  other  antiquities  of  the  Roman  period  which  have 
been  found  from  time  to  time.  The  lord  of  the  soil  in  the  lith  cent,  was 
the  powerful  Earl  Godwin,  father  of  the  last  Anglo-Saxon  king,  Harold, 
who  lost  his  kingdom  and  his  life  at  the  battle  of  Hastings  (lith  Oct.,  1066). 
—  Brighton  was  a  poor  fishing-village  down  to  1753.  After  that  year, 
owing  to  the  commendations  of  Dr.  Russell,  a  fashionable  physician,  who 
had  experienced  the  beneficial  effects  of  sea-bathing  here,  the  place  began 
to  grow  in  importance.  In  1782  George  IV.,  then  Prince  of  Wales,  first 
took  up  his  residence  at  Brighton,  and  the  result  of  his  royal  patronage 
was  the  speedy  advance  of  the  town  to  its   present  imposing  dimensions. 

Near  the  end  of  Queens  Road  (PI.  D,  5),  which  leads  S.  from 
the  central  station  to  the  beach.  Church  Street  diverges  to  the  left, 
leading  to  the  North  Steine  and  the  Pavilion.  At  the  E.  end  of 
Church  St.  is  the  Town  Museum  (PI.  E,  5),  which  boasts  of  a  well 
arranged  geological  and  zoological  collection,  a  Free  Library,  and  a 
Picture  Gallery  (adm.  free  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  &  Wed.;  other  days  6d.). 

The  Picture  Gallery  contains  a  few  pictures  belonging  to  the  munici- 
pality, but  is  chiefly  devoted  to  loan-collections  ,  which  are  frequently 
changed.  Among  the  permanent  works  are :  Jan  Viclor  (pupil  of  Rem- 
brandt), The  marriage- contract;  West,  Rejection  of  Christ;  Downard, 
Reading  the  news,  and  The  naughty  child;  portraits  of  George  IV.,  Wil- 
liam IV.,  and  Queen  Adelaide,  by  Lawrence;  and  works  by  West,  Armi- 
tage,  and  Leatham.  The  collection  of  English  Porcelain,  lent  by  Mr.  Willet, 
is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  England. 

To  the  S.  is  the  Royal  Pavilion  (PI.  E,5),  an  extensive  and 
tasteless  building  in  the  Oriental  style  {Nash,  architect!,  on  which 
the  Prince  of  Wales  (afterwards  George  IV.)  laid  out  250,000^., 
and  where,  after  its  completion  in  1787,  he  spent  several  months 
of  each  year.  William  IV.  and  Queen  Victoria,  however,  rarely 
occupied  it,  chiefly  because  the  view  of  the  sea  is  nearly  excluded 
by  houses.  It  was  bought  by  the  town  in  1849  for  53,000^  The 
royal  stables  and  riding-school  with  their  immense  dome  (80  ft.  in 
diameter),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Pavilion,  have  been  converted  into 
a  ball  and  concert  room  (organ-recital  on  the  1st  Mon.  of  each 
mouth).  The  handsome  and  well-shaded  grounds  are  open  to  the 
public ;  adm.  to  the  Pavilion  6d. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.   4th  Edit.  4 


50    Route  6.  BRIGHTON.  Esplanade. 

Passing  through  the  Entrance  Hall,  which  contains  busts  of  eminent 
citizens  and  natives  of  Brighton,  we  enter  a  long  Con-idor,  decorated 
in  the  Chinese  manner.  From  this  gallery  all  the  rooms  of  the  ground- 
floor  may  be  entered.  The  Banqueting  and  Music  Rooms  ^  at  opposite 
extremities  of  the  corridor,  are  the  most  handsomely  painted  and  adorned. 
The  principal  chandeliers  cost  upwards  of  2000L  each.  The  rooms  are 
used  for  lectures,  concerts,  balls,  scientific  assemblies,  and  other  public 
gatherings.  The  apartments  in  the  upper  story  contain  various  collec- 
tions of  no  great  interest. 

Contiguous  to  the  Pavilion  on  the  E.is  the  Old  Steine^  a  square 
with  a  grass  plot  and  fountains,  named  from  a  reef  (Ger.  Stein, 
Flem.  Steen,  a  stone  or  rock),  which  jutted  into  the  sea  here.  On 
the  N.  side  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  George  IV.,  by  Chantrey.  —  To 
the  S.E.,  near  the  sea-front,  is  the  extensive  Aquarium  (PL  E  6; 
adm.  Is. ;  after  7p.m.  6d.),  which  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  Externally 
it  makes  no  great  show ,  being  built  on  a  site  below  the  level  of 
the  road.    The  entrance  is  surmounted  by  a  low  clock-tower. 

The  forty  large  tanks  in  the  interior  contain  great  numbers  of  fish, 
including  specimens  of  the  octopus  or  devil-fish,  dolphins,  porpoises,  sharks, 
etc.  There  are  also  turtle,  seal,  and  sea-lion  ponds,  alligators,  and  stufied 
.specimens  of  fish  and  reptiles.  Attached  to  the  aquarium  are  a  good 
restaurant,  a  cafe,  smoking  and  billiard  rooms,  reading-rooms  supplied 
with  newspapers  and  periodicals,  a  skating-rink,  and  a  theatre.  The  flat 
roof  is  laid  out  with  flower-beds  and  used  as  a  promenade. 

The  EsPLAKAiJE,  or  sea-front,  forms  a  road  about  4M.  in  length, 
in  or  near  which  most  of  the  visitors  reside.  The  W.  part  is  called 
the  King's  Road  (PL  C,  D,  E,  6).  The  E.  part,  called  the  Marine 
Parade  (PL  F,  G,  6),  and  extending  from  the  Old  Steine  to  Kemp 
Town,  is  protected  by   a  sea-wall  constructed  at  a  cost  of  100,000i. 

The  most  popular  promenade  is  the  *West  Pier  (PL  D,  6; 
pier-toll  2d.),  completed  in  1866,  1150  ft.  in  length,  at  the  end  of 
which  a  band  performs  in  the  morning  and  evening.  On  a  fine  day 
the  scene  here  is  of  a  most  lively  and  attractive  character.  The  old 
Chain  Pier  was  destroyed  by  a  gale  in  Dec,  1896. 

The  finest  rows  of  houses,  such  as  Queen's  Mansions,  Bruns- 
wick Square,  and  Adelaide  Crescent  (PL  B,  0,6),  are  chiefly  situated 
on  the  West  Cliff.  On  the  East  Cliff  lies  Kemp  Town  (PI.  H,  6), 
which  also  contains  many  handsome  dwellings.  The  Madeira  Road, 
at  the  foot  of  this  cliff,  is  a  favourite  resort  of  invalids  and  is 
provided  with  free  shelters  and  a  reading-room  (adm.  Id.).  An 
elevator  (^/od.)  ascends  hence  to  the  top  of  the  cliff. 

The  Brighton  and  Rottingdean  Seashore  Electric  Railway  (p.  48),  opened 
in  1896,  is  laid  along  the  shore  just  above  low-water  mark,  and  consists 
of  double  parallel  tracks,  each  2  ft.  81/2  in.  gauge.  The  car,  accommodat- 
ing 150  passengers,  is  a  steel  structure  on  16  wheels,  carrying  passengers 
at  a  height  of  24  ft.  above  the  rails  and  9  ft.  above  high-water  at  the  deepest 
point.  The  power-station  is  situated  beneath  the  pier  at  Rottingdean,  and 
the  current  is  conveyed  to  the  motors  from  an  overhead  trolley.  The  line 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  coast-cliffs.  —  Electric  Tramway,  see   p.  48. 

From  the  Clock  Tower  (PL  D,  5)  at  the  junction  of  West  St. 
and  Queen's  Road,  Dyke  Road  runs  to  the  N.W.,  passing  the  old 
parish-church  oiSt.  Nicholas  (PL  D,  6),  founded  in  the  14th  century. 


Excursions.  BRIGHTON.  6.  Route.     51 

This  church  contains  a  very  ancient  circular  Fonf,  ornamented  with 
curious  carving.  In  the  graveyard,  to  the  S.  of  the  chancel,  is  the 
tomb  of  Nicholas  Tettersell ,  captain  of  the  vessel  that  carried 
Charles  II.  to  France  after  the  battle  of  Worcester.  About  a  mile 
farther  on  is  the  *Dyk€  Road  Museum  (PI.  C,  3),  containing  one  of 
the  finest  ornitbological  collections  in  England. 

The  present  parish-church  of  Brighton  is  St.  Peter's  (Pi.  E,  4), 
a  handsome  modern  Gothic  edifice  in  an  open  space  to  the  N.  of  the 
Grand  Parade.  Several  new  churclies(6^L  PauVs,  West  Street,  with 
an  altar-piece  by  Burne- Jones;  St.  Martiris,  Lewes  Road,  with  a 
fine  pulpit;  etc.)  have  been  built  by  the  Rev.  A.  D.  Wagner,  Vicar 
of  St.  Paul's.  St.  Bartholomew's  is  remarkable  for  its  height.  Trinity 
Chapel,  of  which  the  Rev.  Fred.  W.  Robertson  (d.  1853)  was  in- 
cumbent, is  in  Ship  St.  Robertson  is  buried  in  the  Extra-Mural 
Cemetery  (PI.  G,  3)  ,  a  few  paces  from  Macaulay's  victim,  'Satan' 
Montgomery  (d.  1855). 

Brighton  is  unfortunately  so  ill-provided  witb  shade  tbat  this 
'London-by-the-Sea'  has  been  cynically  described  as  made  up  of 
'wind,  glare,  and  fashion'.  Numerous  young  trees  have  been 
planted  in  different  parts  of  the  town  to  remedy  this  defect. 
Shelter  from  the  sun  may,  however,  be  obtained  in  the  grounds 
of  the  Pavilion  (p.  49),  or  in  the  Queens  Park  (PL  F,  5),  situated 
in  a  small  depression  farther  to  the  E.  Adjacent  to  the  Queen's 
Park  is  the  so-called  German  Spa,  where  Dr.  Struve's  mineral 
waters  are  retailed. 

Excursions.  Pleasant  walks  do  not  abound,  either  in  Brighton  or  its 
environs.  The  most  attractive  are  to  the  W.,  through  the  suburb  of  Hove 
or  West  Brighton  (PI.  B,  5,  6),  with  its  handsome  town-hall  in  red  brick 
and  terracotta,  and  to  the  N.  to  Preston  CP\.  C,  D,  2,  3),  a  quiet  and  pic- 
turesquely-situated little  place,  with  an  E.E.  church  and  a  pretty  public 
park  and  cricket-ground.  A  little  to  the  N.  rises  Hollingsbuvy  Bill, 
with  remains  of  a  Roman  entrenchment,  where  Roman  coins  have  fre- 
quently been  discovered.  Beyond  it,  and  about  6  M.  from  Brighton,  is 
the  Devil's  Dyke,  a  kind  of  natural  amphitheatre,  looking  like  a  huge 
entrenchment  (railway  from  the  central  station  in  20  min.;  also  excur- 
sion-cars, there  and  back  Is.  6d.).  The  Dyke  Road  (see  above)  leads  to  it 
direct.  From  the  table-hind  above  the  head  of  the  Dyke  (697  ft. ;  Dyke 
Hotel),  where  there  are  traces  of  a  British  camp,  we  obtain  one  of  the 
most  diversified  views  in  the  whole  county,  seeing  immediately  below 
us  the  rich  expanse  of  the  'Wealden'  formation,  once  a  primreval  forest 
called  Coit  Andred  by  the  Britons,  Andevida  by  the  Romans,  and  Andreds- 
wald  by  the  Saxons.  To  the  S.  is  the  far-reaching  sea,  to  the  N.  the 
chain  of  the  North  Down  Hills,  to  the  W.  numerous  villages,  and  to  the 
E.  busy  Brighton  itself.  The  Dyke  is  spanned  by  a  Telpher  CaUeway^  650ft. 
in  length,  opened  in  1894.  The  car,  suspended  from  the  cable,  makes 
the  transit  in  2  minutes.  —  At  the  foot  of  the  Dyke  is  the  village  of  Poyn- 
ing^,  with  an  interesting  old  church. 

To  the  E.  we  may  drive  via  Rottingdean  (excursion-cars  there  and 
back  Is.),  which  contains  mineral  springs,  to  CtVvr  M.)  Newhaven  (p.  42). 
The  clifl's,  which  the  road  skirts,  are  rich  in  fossil  formations.  —  To  the 
N.E.,  at  a  high  level,  is  the  Race  Course  (view). 

From  Brighton  to  Hastings,  33  M.,  railway  in  IVi-S  hrs.  (fares  55. 
id.,  3s.  Id.,  2s.  iOd.).  Soon  after  leaving  the  station  the  train  crosses  the 
London  road  by  a  fine  curved  viaduct  of  27  arches,  73  ft.  high  and  400  yds. 

4* 


52     Route  7.  WORTHING.  From  Brighton 

long.  Afterwards  it  passes  througli  a  tunnel  and  several  deep  cuttings  in 
tlie  chalk  -  hills.  To  the  right,  beyond  (1  M.)  London  Road  station,  are 
the  Brighton  Cavalry  Barracks  (PI.  F,  2) ;  to  the  left,  farther  on,  Sianmer 
Park  (Earl  of  Chichester),  which  contains  relics  of  CroniAvell  and  portraits 
by  Kneller,  Reynolds,  etc.  l\ear  (4  31.)  Falmer  another  long  tunnel  is 
passed  through.  At  (8  M.)  Lewes  (p.  42)  we  join  the  line  from  London  to 
Eastbourne  and  follow  it  to  (20  M.)   Polegate  Junction  (see  p.  42). 

Close  to  (23  M.)  Pevensey  d'  Wes'ham  (Royal  Oak  Inn)  is  Weslham 
Churchy  a  fine  building,  partly  Xorman.  *Pevensey  Castle  consists  of 
two  distinct  parts,  an  outer  fortress  of  Roman  origin  and  an  inner  late- 
Norman  one  of  the  12th  century.  The  Roman  wall,  still  about  20  ft. 
high  at  places,  encloses  a  space  of  about  10  acres  and  is  strengthened 
at  intervals  by  round  towers;  this  was  the  Roman  Anderida.  The  Xorman 
castle  occupies  the  S.  E.  corner  of  this  enclosure.  Pevensey  is  the  reputed 
landing-place  of  William  the  Conqueror.  Pecensey  Church,  to  the  E.  of 
the  Castle,  is  Early  English.  —  About  41/3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Pevensey  (and 
33/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  Hailsham,  p.  37)  is  *Hurstmonceaux  Castle  (daily,  ex- 
cept Wed.  &  Thurs.,  6d.),  an  interesting  and  beautiful  example  of  a  for- 
tified mansion  of  the  15tli  cent.,  built  of  brick  (now  roofless).  Hitrstmon- 
ceaux  Church.,  1/4  31.  to  the  W.,  is  also  interesting  for  its  monuments. 
Archdeacon  Hare  (d.  1855)  is  buried  beneath  the  great  yew  in  the  churchyard. 
—  29  M.  Bexhill  (Devonshire  Hotel),  a  small  watering-place,  with  a  'Kur- 
saar,  on  the  Continental  system,  opened  in  lb96;  32  M.  St.  Leonards  (West 
Marina  station).  —  33  31.  Hastings,  see  p.  39. 

7.  From  Brighton  to  Chichester  and  Portsmouth. 

44  M.  Brighton  ani>  South  Coast  Railway,  in  11/3-2  hrs.  (fares  6s. 
lOd.,  4s.  6c?.,  3s.  8(Z.).  To  (28V2  M.)  Chichester  in  50-70  min.  (4s.  5d.,  2s.  lid.. 
Is.  4c?.).  —  View  of  the  English  Channel  on  the  left.  On  both  sides  are 
pleasant  meadow-land  and  trees,  with  numerous  windmills. 

The  first  station  is  [IV2  M.)  West  Brighton,  just  before  whicli 
our  line  is  joined  by  the  branch  from  Preston  Park  (p.  47),  while 
beyond  diverges  the  branch  to  the  Devil's  Dyke  (p.  51).  —  6  M. 
Shoreham  (Royal  George ;  Buckingham  Arms),  which  carries  on  a 
considerable  trade  with  the  opposite  coast  of  France.  The  anti- 
quarian will  be  repaid  by  a  visit  to  the  churches  of  Old  and  New 
Shoreham,  in  the  Norman  and  Early  English  styles,  dating  from 
the  time  of  the  Crusades.  There  is  a  popular  resort  here  called 
the  Swiss  Gardens. 

Feosi  Shoreham  to  Hoksham  (Guildford,  Dorking).,  20  31.,  railway  in 
3/4  hr.  (fares  35.,  2s.,  Is.  Sd.).  —  4  31.  Bramher,  with  a  ruined  castle.  — 
41/2  31.  Steyning  has  a  church  mainly  of  the  I2th  century.  About  2  31. 
to  the  X.W.  is  Wiston,  at  the  foot  of  Cluinctonhury  Ring  (814  ft.),  on  which 
are  traces  of  a  Roman-British  camp.  —  8  31.  Henfield.  I21/2  31.  West  Grin- 
stead.  In  the  park  of  West  Grinstead  House  is  'Pope's  Oak\  under  which 
Pope  is  said  to  have  composed  the  'Rape  of  the  Lock",  while  visiting  his 
friends  the  Carylls.  About  1  31.  to  the  W.  is  Enepp  Castle,  a  ruin  1/2  M. 
from  which  is  the  modern  house  containing  portraits  (Holbein,  A.  More, 
Vandyck,  Lely,  etc.)  and  a  valuable  topographical  library.  An  omnibus 
plies  "from  West  Grinstead  to  (2  M.)  Cow/old.,  near  which  is  the  Cistercian 
monasterv  of  St.  Huah  (built  1873-86),  said  to  be  the  largest  in  England. 
—  20  31.  Horsham  (p.  61). 

Beyond  Shoreham  the  train  crosses  the  wide  estuary  of  the  Adur, 
which  is  also  crossed  by  a  fine  suspension-bridge  (left).  —  At  (8M.) 
Lancing  is  a  large  public  school  (to  the  right). 

1072  M.  Worthing  (Marine;  Steyne  Hotel;  *Royal  Sea  House^; 


to  Portsmouth.  CHICHESTER.  7.  Route.    53 

West  Worthing ;  Albion)  ^  a  favourite  watering-place  (16,600  in- 
hab.),  -witli  a  line  sandy  "beach  and  a  long  iron  pier,  frequented  "by 
those  who  like  quieter  quarters  than  Brighton.  At  West  Worthing 
(stat.)  are  large  baths  and  tennis-courts. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  the  X.  to  the  interesting  churches  of 
(I  51.)  Broadwater  and  (2  M.)  Sompting  (p.  xxxvi),  and  to  the  N.W.  to 
(IV2  31.)  West  Tarring^  with  fig-gardens  (adm.  2(i.)  and  an  E.E.  church,  and 
(2  M.)  Salvington,  the  birthplace  of  Selden  (1584-1654).  Cisshury  Hill^ 
0,^/2  M.  distant,  is  the  site  of  a  British  or  Roman  encampment.  Chancton- 
hury  Ring  (see  p.  52),  5  M.  to  the  N.,  and  Eighdoicn  Hill,  41/2  M.  to  the 
N.W.,  command  extensive  and  beautiful  views.  On  the  summit  of  the 
latter  is  the  tomb  of  a  miller  (d,  1793),   buried   here   at  his  own  request. 

191/2  M.  Ford  Junction,  with  a  branch-line  to  the  S.E.  to  (2  M.") 
Littlehampton  (Norfolk  ;  Terminus  ;  Beach),  a  small  watering-place 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Arun.  Another  branch  runs  N.  to  (^Yg  M-) 
Arundel,  Amberley,  and  (IV/o  M.)  Horsham  (see  p.  61). 

22  M.  Barnham,  the  junction  for  a  short  line  to  (81/2  ^0  Bognor 
(Norfolk,-  Pier ;  Bedford ;  Victoria),  a  quiet  bathing-place,  with  a 
pier  and  esplanade.  —  26i/<>  M.  Drayton,  the  nearest  station  for 
(31/4  M.)  Goodwood  (p.  55).  " 

The  train  now  traverses  a  level  and  fertile  tract  of  country,  and 
reaches  (in  50-70  min.  from  Brighton)  — 

28V2M.  Chichester  (^Dolphin,  Anchor,  Eagle,  all  in  West  St., 
facing  the  cathedral ;  omn.  from  the  station),  a  town  of  great  an- 
tiquity (7850  inhab.),  the  Regnum  of  the  Romans,  the  Cissa's 
Ceaster  of  the  Saxons.  It  became  the  seat  of  a  bishop  after  the 
Norman  Conquest ,  when  William  transferred  the  ancient  see  of 
Selsey  or  Selsea  (founded  in  the  7th  cent.)  to  this  place.  The 
diocese  of  Chichester  is  conterminous  with  the  county  of  Sussex, 
the  only  instance  of  such  identity  in  England.  As  at  Chester,  the 
characteristic  square  ground-plan  of  the  Romans  is  marked  by  the 
four  principal  streets,  which  are  named  after  the  points  of  the  com- 
pass and  meet  each  other  at  right  angles  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 
At  the  point  of  intersection  is  the  handsome  ''^Market  Cross,  erected 
in  1500,  but  much  damaged  by  the  Puritans.  The  line  of  the  town 
walls  (date  unknown)  can  still  be  traced  throughout  almost  their 
whole  circuit ;  and  on  the  N.  and  E.  sides  of  the  town  portions  of 
them  have  been  converted  into  public  promenades. 

From  the  station  we  approach  the  centre  of  the  town  through 
Southgate  and  South  Street,  passing,  on  the  right,  the  ATu^eum  of 
the  Philosophical  Society  (open  10-4 ;  adm.  3d.)  ,  containing  Ro- 
man antiquities  and  natural  history  specimens.  A  little  farther 
on,  to  the  left,  wc  reach  the  Canon  Gate  (15th  cent.),  leading  to 
the  cathedral-precincts.  Immediately  to  the  right,  within  the  arch- 
way ,  is  the  small  Vicars'  Close ,  with  its  fine  Hall  of  the  14th 
cent.,  now  used  by  the  Chichester  Theological  College.  Going 
straight  past  the  Vicars'  Close,  we  reach  St.  Richard's  Walk,  named 
after  Bishop  Richard  de  la  Wych  (p.  64),  a  narrow  passage  on 
the  right  leading  to  the  Cloisters  (Perp. ;   16th  cent.) ,  which  it 


54     Route  7.  CHICHESTER.  From  Brighton 

reaches  opposite  the  S.  door  of  the  cathedral.  It  is  better,  however, 
to  turn  to  the  left,  quitting  the  cloisters  (good  view  of  the  Cathe- 
dral), and  enter  the  Cathedral  by  the  E.  E.  Galilee  Porch  on  the  W. 

The  *Cath.edral,  originally  begun  about  1085,  completed  in 
1108,  and  burned  down  in  1114,  is  in  its  present  form  substan- 
tially a  transitional  Norman  building  of  the  12th  cent.,  with  some 
pointed  details  introduced  after  a  second  fire  in  1186.  The  Lady 
Chapel  dates  from  1288-1304;  the  spire  (277  ft.),  erected  in  the 
15th  cent.,  collapsed  in  1861  and  was  rebuilt  in  1861-66.  The  de- 
tached Bell  Tower,  a  feature  peculiar  to  Chichester  among  English 
cathedrals,  is,  despite  its  weather-worn  appearance,  one  of  the  most 
recent  parts  of  the  building,  dating  from  the  15th  century.  The 
absence  of  the  N.  W.  tower,  which  fell  in  1634,  gives  a  somewhat 
lop-sided  appearance  to  the  W.  facade.  The  whole  edifice  was 
restored  in  1848-66.  The  total  length  of  the  church  is  410  ft. ;  nave 
172  ft.;  width  of  nave  and  aisles  91  ft.;  across  transepts  131  ft.; 
height  of  nave  62  ft.,  of  choir  65  ft.  Comp.  'Architectural  History 
of  Chichester  Cathedral',  by  R.  Willis. 

The  Interior  (services  at  10  and  4;  adm.  to  choir  Qd.),  which  was 
sadly  defaced  by  the  iconoclasts  in  1643,  shows  in  many  respects  a  strong 
resemblance  to  the  early  French  Gothic  style  ,  particularly  in  the  super- 
structure of  the  choir,  the  arcades  and  detached  shafts  of  the  presbytery, 
and  the  double  aisles  of  the  nave.  The  outer  aisles  (E.  E.),  a  peculiarity 
which  Chichester  shares  with  Manchester  alone  among  English  cathedrals, 
consisted  originally  of  a  series  of  chapels,  afterwards  thrown  into  one.  The 
Nave  proper,  with  its  eight  bays,  is  somewhat  narrow  in  proportion  to  its 
height.  The  stained  glass  is  all  modern.  Among  the  most  interesting 
monuments  are  effigies  of  an  Earl  and  Countess  of  Arundel  (14th  cent.; 
restored)  and  of  a  lady  (13th  cent.?),  a  "Tablet  to  Collins,  the  poet,  a  native 
of  Chichester  (1719-59),  by  Flaxman,  and  a  statue  of  Huskisson,  by  Ccirew^ 
all  in  the  N.  aisle;  and  the  monuments  of  Agnes  Cromwell  and  Jane  Smith, 
in  the  S.  aisle,  both  by  Flaxman.  !Near  the  N.  porch  is  an  ancient  wooden 
Chesty  brought  from  Selsey  Cathedral  (see  p.  53).  The  only  old  brass  (1592) 
now  left  hangs  against  one  of  the  piers  in  the  S.  aisle.  The  modern 
Pulpit  is  a  memorial  of  Dean  Hook  (d.  1875),  author  of  'Lives  of  the  Arch- 
bishops of  Canterbury".  —  The  N.  Transept,  formerly  used  as  a  parish 
church,  contains  a  worthless  series  of  portraits  of  the  bishops,  from  St. 
Wilfrid  (680)  to  Sherburne  (1508-36),  painted  in  the  16th  cent,  by  an  Italian 
named  Bernardi.  This  transept  is  adjoined  by  the  Chapel  of  the  Four 
Virgins  (entered  from  the  N.  aisle  of  the  choir),  now  used  as  the 
Cathedral  Library^  and  containing  some  interesting  relics.  Among  the 
manuscripts  is  a  copy  of  the  prayer-book  of  Hermann,  Archbishop  of 
Cologne,  with  the  autograph  of  the  martyr  Cranmer,  Archbishop  of  Can- 
terbury. The  S.  Transept  possesses  a  fine  Dee.  window,  filled  with 
execrable  Munich  glass,  and  two  other  paintings  by  Bernardi  (see  above), 
representing  the  foundation  of  the  see  at  Selsey  (680)  and  the  confirmation, 
by  Henry  VIII.,  of  Bishop  Sherburne's  gifts  to  the  Cathedral.  Below  is 
the  tomb  of  Bishop  Moleyns  (1446-50). 

The  Choir,  elevated  by  four  steps  above  the  nave,  extends  three 
bays  eastward  from  the  tower.  The  oaken  Choir  Screen  is  new  (1890).  The 
carving  of  the  Choir  Stalls  and  misereres  is  very  fine.  The  modern  Rere- 
dos,  with  its  carved  group  of  the  Ascension,  has  been  left  unfinished 
on  the  score  of  its  excessive  bulk.  The  mosaic  pavement  in  front  of 
the  altar  deserves  attention.  The  choir  is  divided  from  its  aisles  by  beauti- 
ful hammered  iron  screens  in  imitation  of  ancient  work.  In  the  S.  aisle 
are  two  very  interesting   and  well-preserved  'Saxon  Sculptures,  brought 


CHICHESTER  CATHEDRAL 

M<iiiiiiiiPiil.s,(Mc-. 
i.   Jfine-S'mith 
'1.  AffnesTroniiren. 
3.  Pii//jil 
"t.   I'nAv/oim  Lat/// 

5.  JjonietladJ/ Ari/ndei 

6.  CoUi/ts 

7.  n:/IiisAu.won 

8.  Jiis}ij}pAloLi'Af7i. 

9.  Dea/i  Hook- 
Mi.  Tiis'/tnp  S/ierbonie 
U.  Ancient  Selsey  Sail^mires 


to  Portsmouth.  GOODWOOD.  7.  Route.     55 

from  Selsey,  representing  Christ  at  the  house  of  Lazarus  and  the  Rais- 
ing of  Lazarus,  with  hollows  left  by  the  abstraction  of  the  jewelled 
eyes.  This  aisle  also  contains  the  Cenotaph  of  Dean  Hook  (see  p.  54),  and  the 
tomb  of  Bishop  Sherburne  (d.  1536).  —  Behind  the  reredos,  where  formerly 
stood  the  famous  shrine  of  St.  Richard  (de  la  Wych;  1245-53),  is  the 
Pkesbttert,  with  its  interesting  triforium,  showing  the  transition  to  the 
pointed  style.  The  detached  shafts  of  the  piers  are  placed  much  farther 
from  the  central  columns  than  is  usual  in  other  instances  when  this  con- 
struction is  adopted  (comp.  ante).  —  The  long  and  narrow  Lady  Chapel, 
forming  the  E.  termination  of  the  cathedral,  was  restored  in  1870.  On 
the  vaulting  are  some  remains  of  the  paintings  with  which  the  entire 
roof  of  the  cathedral  was  adorned  by  Bernardi  (see  p.  54). 

In  the  Cloisters  (p.  58;  restored  since  189U)  is  a  tablet  to  Wm.  Chil- 
lingworth,  the  Protestant  controversialist,  who  died  at  Chichester  in  1643. 
—  A  fine  view  may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  Bell  Tower  (open  11- 
12  and  2-4),  but  an  order  from  the  Dean  is  necessary  for  an  ascent  of  the 
Central  Tower.  The  spire  is  said  to  be  the  only  cathedral  spire  in  Eng- 
land that  is  visible  from  the  sea. 

The  Episcopal  Palace,  adjoining  the  cathedral  on  the  S.  W.,  con- 
tains a  fine  old  mediaeval  kitchen,  now  used  as  a  washhouse.  The  private 
chapel  of  the  bishops  has  been  restored. 

We  now  return  to  the  Market  Cross,  proceed  down  North  Street, 
in  wMch,  on  the  right,  is  the  restored  Church  of  St.  Olave,  probab- 
ly the  oldest  in  Chichester,  standing  on  the  foundations  of  a  Ro- 
man building.  The  first  turning  to  the  right  leads  to  '^St.  Mary's 
Hospital,  originally  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  as  a  nunnery,  and 
afterwards  refounded  as  an  asylum  for  old  women.  It  consists  of  a 
large  hall ,  with  a  small  chapel  (13th  cent.)  at  its  B.  end.  The 
interesting  old  windows  of  the  latter  were  'restored'  in  1878-86. 
The  misereres  here  resemble  those  in  the  cathedral.  —  Not  far 
from  this  point ,  at  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  town  ,  is  the  Priory 
Cricket  Ground  (adm.  6d.),  containing  part  of  the  church  of  an 
old  Franciscan  Monastery,  afterwards  used  as  the  Guildhall. 

Excursions  from  Chichester.  Bosham  (station,  see  below),  a  fishing 
village,  4  M.  to  the  W.,  on  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  possesses  an  interest- 
ing church,  partly  Saxon,  which  figures  in  the  Bayeux  Tapestry  and  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  a  daughter  of  King  Canute.  Harold  is  said  to  have 
here  set  sail  for  his  ill-omened  visit  to  Normandy.  —  To  the  S.  the  coun- 
try is  flat  and  uninteresting.  On  theN.  it  is  more  attractive,  and  afl'ords 
a  number  of  pleasant  walks,  particularly  that  to  (3i/2  M.)  Goodwood,  the 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  with  its  fine  collection  of  paintings,  in- 
cluding specimens  of  Van  Dyck,  Rembrandt,  Rubens,  Kneller,  Reynolds, 
Lely,  Lawrence,  and  Gainsborough  (open  to  visitors  in  the  absence  of  the 
family).  The  '^Fark,  which  is  open  to  the  public,  contains  herds  of  deer 
and  some  fine  cedars.  A  Roman  relief  of  Neptune  and  Minerva,  found  at 
Chichester,  is  preserved  in  a  kind  of  temple  here.  The  picturesque  "Race 
Course,  close  at  hand,  is  crowded  every  July  with  the  members  of  the 
sporting  world.  The  stables,  kennels,  pheasantry,  and  tennis-court  also 
deserve  notice.  —  Boxgrove,  I'/a  M.  from  Goodwood,  contains  an  Early 
English  'Pnorw  Church,  with  richly  decorated  and  painted  vaulting.  The 
curious  external  elevation  of  the  presbytery  should  be  noticed.  —  A  plea- 
sant walk  mav  also  be  taken  to  the  ''Boman  Villa  at  Bignor,  IOV2  M.  to 
the  N.E.  (p.  61). 

Railway  from  Chichester  to  Midhurst  and  Pvlborongh^  see  p.  61. 

Beyond  Chichester  the  train  passes  (Sl^/oM.)  Bosham  (1  M.  to 
the  N.  of  the  village,  see  above),  and  enters  the  county  of  Hampshire, 
or  Hants.  Then  (^351/2  M.)  Emsworth.    The  Isle  of  Wight  is  visible 


56     Route  7.  PORTSxMOUTH.  From  Brighton 

in  the  distance  (^left).  From  (^871/2  M.)  Havant  (^Bear;  Albany),  a 
small  market-to^vn,  where  we  join  the  L.  S.  "W.  direct  line  from 
London  (R.  9),  a  short  branch-line  diverges  to  Hayling  Island,  with 
the  favourite  bathing-resorts  of  North  and  South  Hayling  (Royal 
Hotel).  Beyond  Havant  the  hills  to  the  right  are  crowned  with  the 
forts  protecting  Portsmouth  on  the  land-side.  The  train  crosses  a 
narrow  arm  of  the  sea  and  enters  the  island  of  Portsea.  —  43'/2  M. 
Fratton  Junction  (for  Southsea ,  p.  58) ;  44  M.  Portsmouth  Town ; 
45  M.  Portsmouth  Harbour,  the  starting-place  of  the  Isle  of  Wight 
steamers  (see  p.  66). 

Portsmouth.  —  Hotels.  Geoege  (PI.  a ;  C,  4),  29  High  St.  —  At  Land- 
port:  Bedfobd,  Sussex  (PI.  c;E,3),  close  to  the  Town  Station,  unpretend- 
ing, E.  &  A.  is.  —  At  Portsea :  Totterdells  (PI.  d  ;  C ,  3),  St.  George's  Sq.; 
Keppel's  Head  (PI.  e;  C,  3),  on  the  Hard.  —  At  Southsea:  Esplanade 
(PI.  f-,  D,  5),  adjoining  the  Esplanade  Pier,  well  spoken  of;  Queens  (PI.  i ; 
D,  5),  Geosvenok  (PI.  h;  D,  5),  Pier  (PI.  k;  D,  5),  fronting  the  Common 
and  the  sea;  Beach  Mansions  (PI.  g;  F,  6),  opposite  the  Parade  Pier,  East 
Southsea ;  Portland  (PI.  1 ;  E,  oj,  Kent  Road.  —  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the 
Town  and  Harbour  stations. 

Cabs.  From  the  station  to  any  part  of  Portsmouth  proper  and  Portsea, 
to  the  Dockyard  and  the  Harbour,  and  to  Southsea  Pier  is.-,  to  other  parts 
of  Southsea"  Is.  6<i.,  to  East  Southsea  and  Southsea  Castle  25. 

Tram-way-Cars  ply  at  frequent  intervals  from  Portsea  to  Southsea,  from 
Southsea  to  North  End,  Landport  (passing  the  railway  -  station),  from 
Portsmouth  Point  to  Buckland.  etc.  —  Omnibuses  from  the  Bedford  Hotel 
to  the  Dockyard  {id.)  and  from  King's  Road  to  Havelock  Park  iid.). 

Steamers  to  Southampton  (several  times  a  day) ,  Ryde  (about  every  hr.), 
Coice.s  etc.  —  Steam  Floating  Bridge  or  Launch  to  Gospori  from  Ports- 
mouth Point  every  10  min.  {id.),  and  Steam  Launches  from  Portsea  Pier 
to  Gosport  every  5  min.  {}lid.). 

Theatre  Royal  (PI.  D,  3),  Commercial  Road.  —  Empire  Palace  Music 
Hall,  Edinburgh  Road,  near  the  railwav-station.  —  Concerts,  etc,  in  the 
Victoria  Hall.  Commercial  Road  (PI.  D,  4);  the  Tow-n  Hall  (PI.  D,  3);  and 
Portland  Hall.,  Kent  Road  (PI.  E.  5).  —  Military  Music  in  summer  on  the 
Esplanade  Pier. 

Baths  in  Park  Road  (PI-  D ,  3),  Landport.  —  Swimming  Club  Stage 
PI.  D,  6);  visitors'  tickets  Is.  6d.  per  week. 

TJ.  S.  Consular  Agent,  John  Main,  Esq.,  82  St.  Thomas  St. 

Chief  Attractions.  After  visiting  St.  Thomas's  Church  we  may  cross 
by  the  floating  bridge  to  Gosport,  visit  Haslar  Hospital  and  the  Victualling 
Yard,  and  cross  by  one  of  the  steam-launches  to  Portsea,  where  the 
Dockyard  will  occupy  us  for  IV2  hr.  Or  the  reverse  order  may  be  more 
convenient  (note  hours  of  admission  to  the  Dockyard).  In  either  case 
Southsea  may  be  conveniently  visited  last.  A  visit  to  the  'Victory"  should 
not  be  omitted,  and  a  boat  may  be  hired  to  do  this  in  crossing  the  harbour. 

Portsmouth,  a  strongly  fortified  seaport  and  the  chief  naval 
station  of  England ,  includes  the  contiguous  towns  of  Portsea  (to 
theN.W.),  Southsea  (S.E.~),  ani  Landport  (J^.E.'),  with  a  jointpop- 
ulation  of  180,000  (in  1896),  Portsmouth  proper  being  the  S.AV. 
and  smallest  part.  It  is  also  an  important  garrison,  and  one  of  the 
few  places  in  England  where  the  soldier  is  as  conspicuous  a  factor 
of  the  population  as  in  most  Continental  towns.  The  fortifications 
include  a  series  of  'lines'  and  a  number  of  detached  forts,  both  to 
seaward  and  landward.  Portsmouth  owes  its  importance  partly  to 
its  magnificent  harbour  (41/2  M.  long),   and  partly  to  the  sheltered 


to  Portsmouth.  PORTSMOUTH.  7.  Route.     57 

roadstead  of  Spithead ,  between  the  town  and  the  Isle  of  Wight. 
Charles  Dickens  (1812-70),  whose  father  was  a  clerk  in  the  dock- 
yard, was  born  at  387  Commercial  Road,  Landport  (PI.  E,  1), 
about  1/2  ^^'  to  ttie  ^"'  of  the  station. 

From  the  Town  Station  (PI.  E,  3),  which  is  situated  in  Land- 
port,  opposite  the  Victoria  Park^  we  follow  the  busy  Commercial 
Road  to  the  left.  To  the  right  rises  the  imposing  Town  Hall,  a 
huge  building  in  the  classic  style  ,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  clock- 
tower  ,  opened  in  1890  at  a  cost  of  140.000Z.  In  the  basement  are 
a  Public  Library  and  a  Reading  Room  (open  10-10). 

Park  Road ,  skirting  the  S.  side  of  the  Town  Hall,  leads  to  the 
W.  to  the  Hard  atPortsea,  with  the  main  entrance  to  the  Dockyard 
(reached  from  the  High  St.  via  St.  George's  Road).  The  *Dockyard 
(PI.  C,  D,  1,  2;  open  10-12  a.m.  and  i.15-3  p.m.;  to  foreigners 
with  permission  from  the  Admiralty  only)  is  a  gigantic  establish- 
ment, where  everything  appertaining  to  the  building  and  equip- 
ment of  a  fleet  Is  constructed.  It  covers  an  area  of  300  acres,  and 
includes  several  large  fitting  and  repairing  basins  with  an  aggre- 
gate area  of  60  acres,  besides  four  spacious  dry-docks,  and  several 
building  -  slips ,  where  men-of-war  of  the  largest  size  are  con- 
structed. Among  the  many  interesting  sights  may  be  noticed  the 
machinery  which  supplies  the  whole  navy  with  block-sheaves.  The 
Gun- Wharf  or  arsenal,  with  its  extensive  stores  of  marine  ord- 
nance and  ammunition,  also  deserves  a  visit  (adm.  9.30-12  and  2-4 ). 

Beyond  the  Town  Hall,  Commercial  Road  runs  to  the  S.  towards 
High  St.,  passing  the  Theatre  Royal  (PI.  D,  3)  on  the  right,  and 
goes  on  between  the  grounds  of  the  GeneraVs  House,  on  the  left, 
and  the  garrison  Recreation  Grounds^  on  the  right  (adm.  to  officers' 
ground,  od.).  On  the  E.  side  of  High  St.,  near  the  beginning  of 
the  street,  is  'Buckingham  House',  formerly  the  Spotted  Dog  Inn, 
in  which  the  second  Duke  of  Buckingham  was  assassinated  by  Fel- 
ton.  The  Church  of  St.  Thomas  Becket  (PI.  C,  4),  farther  on,  to 
the  right,  an  interesting  old  building,  said  to  have  been  originally 
built  in  the  13th  cent.,  contains  a  monument  to  the  duke.  Philan- 
thropists will  find  it  interesting  to  visit  the  Soldiers'  and  Sailors' 
Institute,  founded  by  Miss  Robinson,  at  the  foot  of  the  street  (PI. 
C,  4).  The  massive  stone  building  facing  the  foot  of  High  St. 
was  once  the  governor's  residence.  Adjoining  on  the  W.  is  the  en- 
trance to  Victoria  Pier  (Id.).  Broad  St.  leads  hence  to  the  N.W.  to 
Portsmouth  Point  (ferry  to  Gosport,  p.  56),  passing  an  inn  claiming 
to  be  the  'Blue  Posts'  of  Capt.  Marryat's  'Peter  Simple'.  The  house 
of  John  Pounds,  the  cobbler  who  founded  the  ragged-school  system 
(1819),  is  in  Mary  Street  (PI.  C,  4).  —  Turning  to  the  E.  (left)  at 
the  foot  of  High  St.,  we  enter  the  Grand  Parade  ,  beyond  which 
we  skirt  Governor  s  Green  and  traverse  Pembroke  Gardens  to  the 
esplanade  at  Sonthsca.  On  the  sea-wall  above  the  Parade  is  the 
Platform,   a  favourite  promenade.    Charles  II.  was  married  on  May 


58     Route  7.  GOSPORT. 

22nd,  1662,  to  Catharine  of  Braganza  in  the  Garrison  Chapel,  which 
belonged  to  a  religious  institution  founded  in  the  time  of  Henry  III. 
The  forts  on  the  hills  to  the  N.  of  Portsmouth  should  he  visited 
for  the  sake  of  the  views  they  afford  of  Hampshire  and  the  Isle  of 
Wight.  A  boat  should  also  be  hired  for  an  excursion  in  the  har- 
bour, where  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  old  'Yictory',  Nelson's  flag- 
ship at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar. 

Southsea  (hotels,  see  p.  56),  with  an  esplanade  (on  which 
the  anchor  of  the  'Victory'  [see  above]  now  lies),  a  canoe  lake  (E. 
Southsea),  two  piers  ,  and  other  attractions  ,  is  now  a  fashionable 
watering-place  and  decidedly  the  pleasantest  of  the  joint  towns 
for  a  prolonged  stay.  It  is  easily  reached  by  tramway,  or  by  the 
short  railway  from  Portsmouth  Town  to  East  Southsea,  Southsea 
Castle,  now  converted  into  a  modern  fort,  was  built  by  Henry  VIII. 
Off  Southsea  is  a  red  buoy  marking  the  spot  where  the  'Royal 
George'  sank  in  1782,  with  'twice  four  hundred  men'. 

Gosport  [India  Arms,  Star,  both  unpretending  ;  railway-station, 
see  p.  80) ,  with  about  8000  inhabitants ,  lies  opposite  Ports- 
mouth, on  the  other  side  of  the  harbour  (ferry,  see  p.  56).  It  con- 
tains the  provision  -  magazines  and  bakehouses  [Royal  Clarence 
Victualling  Yard;  open  to  visitors  under  the  same  conditions  as  the 
Dockyard),  which  were  formerly  a  part  of  Portsmouth  Dockyard. 
The  steam  corn-mill  alone  cost  more  than  75,000i.  The  Ship-Bis- 
cuit Machinery,  by  which  2000  cwt.  of  biscuit  can  be  baked  in 
1  hr.,  is  extremely  interesting.  The  government  establishments 
here  also  include  a  clothes-  making  department,  a  brewery,  etc., 
all  on  a  most  extensive  scale.  —  A  little  to  the  S.E.  of  Gosport 
is  Haslar  Hospital ,  a  spacious  building ,  with  accommodation  for 
2000  sick  or  wounded  sailors.  At  the  extremity  of  Haslar  Point  is 
the  Blockhouse  Fort ,  commanding  the  narrow  entrance  to  Ports- 
mouth Harbour.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  Hospital  is  the  small  water- 
ing-place of  Anglesey  (Anglesey  Hotel),  forming  an  outlying  suburb 
of  Gosport.  —  Stokes  Bay,  see  pp.  66,  80. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  Porchester  (by  rail  in  1/4  lir.), 
the  earliest  seaport  on  this  inlet  ('portns  castra").  The  '-Castle,  founded  by 
the  Romans,  alFords  an  extensive  view.  The  Keep  is  of  Norman  origin.  The 
outer  court  is  still  surrounded  by  the  ancient  Roman  walls.  The  church 
situated  within  the  castle-walls  was  founded  in  1133;  some  remains  of 
the  original  Norman  edifice  are  still  in  situ. 

Railway  from  Portsmouth  or  Gosport  to  Southampton,  26  M.,  in  1  hr. 
(fares  4s.  6d.,  3s.,  2s.  id.).  Steamboat  from  Portsmouth  lo  Southampton 
in  IV2  hr.,  preferable  in  fine  weather  (fares  3s.  and  2s.  Qd.).  —  Scenery 
between  Portsmouth  and  Southampton  attractive. 

After  quitting  the  island  of  Portsea,  the  train  skirts  the  base  of 
Portsdown  Hill.  7  M.  Porchester,  see  above.  To  the  right,  on  the  top  of 
the  hill,  stands  Nelson''s  Monument,  erected  by  his  comrades  at  the  Battle 
of  Trafalgar,  a  useful  landmark  for  shipping. 

9  M.  Fareham  (Red  Lion),  a  busy  little  town,  is  the  junction  for 
Goxpovt  (see  above)  and  Stokes  Bay  (p.  80).  An  omnibus  runs  twice  daily 
from  Fareham  to  Lee-on-the-Solent  (Hotels),  a  small  seaside-resort  of  recent 
origin,  with  an  iron  pier.  Boarhunt,  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Fareham,  has  a 
partly  pre-Norman  church.    11  M.  Swanwick  is   the  station   for  Titchjieldy 


DORKING.  8.  Route.     59 

which  possesses  a  handsome  Early  English  church  and  the  remains  of 
Titchjield  House,  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  for  the  Earl  of  Southampton. 
13  M.  Bursledon;  15V2  M.  Netley,  for  Netley  Abbey  (p.  82).  —23  M.  Bitteme 
Road  is  the  station  for  Bitterne,  the  Clausendim  of  the  Komans,  where 
some  Roman  remains  still  exist  in  the  grounds  of  Bitterne  Manor.  —  At 
(24  M.)  St.  Denys  we  join  the  main  line  (p.  80).  26  M.  Southampton,  see  p.  80. 


8.   From  London  to  Dorking  (Guildford)  and  Ford. 

60  M.  London,  Brighton,  and  South  Coast  Railway,  in  2-2V2  hrs. 
(fares  95.  6c?.,  6.?.  M.,  is.  10d.)i  to  Dorking,  231/2  or  25  M.,  in  1  hr.  7  min. 
to  13/4  hr.  (fares  45.,  25.  6f;.,  25.). 

[Dorking  may  also  be  reached  by  the  South  Eastern  Railway  (from 
Charing  Cross,  Camion  St.,  and  London  Bridge)  in  l'/4-lV2  lir.  (fares  as 
above),  which  goes  on  to  (43  M.)  Guildford  (fares  from  London,  5s.,  3s.  2d., 
Is.  6d.).  From  (5  M.)  New  Cross  (pp.  12,  44)  to  (221/4  M.)  Redhill  Junction 
this  line  coincides  with  the  L.  B.  S.  C.  Railway  to  Brighton  (R.  6);  from 
Redhill  to  Dorking  and  Guildford,  see  p.  45. 

The  most  direct  route  to  Guildford  is  by  the  South  Western  Rail- 
way, described  in  E.  9  (31  M.,  in  3/4-I1/2  hr. ;  fares  as  above).] 

The  trains  leaving  Victoria  and  London  Bridge  unite  at  (S^/2'M. 
from  Victoria)  Mitcham  Junction.  At  Mitcham  large  quantities  of 
lavender  and  other  aromatic  herbs  for  perfumes  are  grown.  12  M. 
Sutton.  16  M.  Epsom  (^Spread  Eagle),  near  which  are  Epsom  Downs 
(branch-line  from  Sutton),  where  the  great  races,  the  'Derby'  and 
the  'Oaks'  take  place  annually  in  May  or  June.  The  church  of  St. 
Martin  contains  several  monuments  by  Flaxman  and  one  by  Chan- 
trey.  —  20  M.  Leatherhead  (Swan;  Duke's  Head)  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mole.  Leatherhead  is  also  a  station 
on  the  S.W.  Railway  (p.  62)  and  it  may  be  reached  by  coach  from 
London  (p.  3).  On  foot  to  Dorking,  see  p.  60.  —  221/2  M.  Boxhill 
^'  Burford  Bridge  (comp.  p.  46)  must  not  be  confounded  with  the 
Boxhill  station  of  the  S.E.R. 

231/2  M.  Dorking  {White  Horse,  R.  &  A.  4s.;  Red  Lion, 
High  St.;  Star  ^^  Garter,  near  the  L.  B.  S.  C.  station;  "^Burford 
Bridge  Hotel,  1  M.  to  the  N.,  see  p.  46,  better  than  the  Dorking 
inns  for  any  stay),  an  old-fashioned  little  town  with  '7130inhab.,  is 
delightfully  situated  in  a  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  North  Downs, 
amid  some  of  the  most  pleasing  scenery  in  England.  It  is  an  ad- 
mirable centre  for  the  pedestrian.  The  five-toed  breed  of  fowls  that 
takes  its  name  from  this  place  is  well-known  to  poultry-fanciers. 
The  old  custom  of  playing  football  in  the  streets  of  the  town  on 
Shrove  Tuesday  is  still  kept  up. 

The  handsome  modern  Church  of  St.  Martin  has  a  lofty  spire 
erected  as  a  memorial  of  Bishop  Wilberforce  (d.  1873).  The  large 
house  on  the  hill  opposite,  beyond  the  railway,  is  Denbies,  the  seat 
of  Lord  Ashcombe. 

Environs.  To  the  E.  of  the  town  lies  the  *Deepdene,  the  lovely 
country-seat  of  the  Duchess  of  Marlborough,  containing  a  fine  gallery  of 
pictures  and  sculptures,  including  works  by  Raphael.  Correggio,  Veronese, 
Rubens,  Reynolds,  Beechey,  Lawrence,  Martin  ('Fall  of  Babylon'),  Thorvald- 
aen,  and  Flaxman,  and  also  collections  of  enamels,  gems,  and  other  objects 


60     Route  8.  LEITH  HILL.  From  London 

of  art  (not  shown).  The  ^Grounds,  including  the  beautifully-kept  Italian 
gardens  and  one  of  the  finest  shows  of  rhododendrons  and  tulips  in  Eng- 
land, are  always  open  to  the  public  (10-4).  In  the  preface  to  'Coningsby"' 
Disraeli  records  that  the  work  'was  conceived  and  partly  executed  amid 
the  glades  and  galleries  of  the  Deepdene'.  One  of  the  finest  points  of  the 
park  is  the  group  of  Scottish  firs  known  as  the  'Glory'.  —  The  Deepdene 
is  adjoined  on  the  E.  by  'Betchworth  Park  (Dowager  Countess  of  Essex), 
M-ith  some  noble  chestnut-trees  and  a  famous  avenue  of  limes. 

Excursions  (comp.  Map,  p.  04).  The  neighbourhood  of  Dorking  is  so 
rich  in  pleasant  walks  and  drives,  that  it  is  impossible  to  do  more  than 
indicate  a  few  of  the  most  attractive.  The  pedestrian  will  often  feel 
stirprised  at  the  comparative  wildness  and  solitude  of  the  scenery. 

To  the  X.  a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  Dorking  past  Denlies 
(p.  59)  and  across  Ranmore  Cummon  to  (6  M.)  Leatherhead  (see  p.  59),  The 
church  of  Ranmore  is  a  modern  edifice  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  with  a  spire 
conspicuous  in  many  views  of  the  district.  —  About  2^/2  M.  to  the  X.  by 
the  London  road  is  Mickleham,  where  Madame  d'Arblay  (Fanny  Burney) 
lived  and  wrote  at  Camilla  Lacey.  a  house  named  after  one  of  her  novels; 
her  husband  was  one  of  a  little  colony  of  French  refugees  settled  in  the 
neighbouring  Juniper  Hall.  The  excursion  to  Mickleham  may  be  easily 
combined  with  an  ascent  of  Boxhill  (p.  46)  and  may  be  extended  across 
Norhury  Park  (fine  yews  in  the  'Druids' Walk)  to  Leatherhead  (see  p.  59). 
—  The  walk  from"  Dorking  to  (6  M.)  Reigate  through  Betchworth  Park 
and  Betchworth  has  been  mentioned  at  p.  46. 

Feom  Doekixg  to  Gcildfokd  ox  Foot  (preferable  to  the  railway, 
comp.  p.  46).  —  A.  DiEECT.  The  most  attractive  route  (12  M.)  leads 
alouj;  the  ridge  of  the  North  Boicns,  coinciding  to  some  extent  with  the 
Pilgrims"  Way  to  Canterbury  (p.  46)  and  afi"ording  a  constant  series  of 
delightful  views.  —  B.  Via  Leith  Hill,  a  walk  of  18-20  31.,  giving  as  good 
an  idea  of  the  varied  scenery  in  this  district  as  can  be  obtained  in  a  day. 
We  leave  the  town  by  South  Street,  and  in  5  min.  reach  a  bifurcation, 
where  we  follow  the  right  branch,  leading  to  Coldharbour.  We  turn  again 
to  the  left  almost  immediately,  and  reach  a  fmger-post  indicating  our 
way  to  Coldharbour.  We  keep  straight  up  the  hill,  and  at  (6  min.)  the 
top  choose  the  right  branch  of  the  road.  3  min.  Entrance  to  Bury  Hill 
Park  Farm,  with  a  'Xo  Footpath'  board.  About  1  M.  farther  on,  the  road, 
here  running  between  lofty  banks  of  sand,  enters  Redlands  Wood,  appar- 
ently so  called  from  the  colour  of  the  soil.  At  (l'/2  M.)  some  cottages  a 
lane  to  the  left  leads  to  Ansiiehury  Camp,  while  our  road  descends  to  the 
right  to  the  pretty  village  of  Coldharbour  (Plough  Inn),  where  the  rugged 
E.  escarpment  of  Coldharbour  Common  rises  to  the  right.  Beyond  Cold- 
harbour it  is  better  to  avoid  the  steep  road  ascending  to  the  right  and 
to  follow  the  level  road  in  a  straight  direction,  which  leads  through  a 
succession  of  beautiful  trees.  (A  branch  to  the  left  leads  to  the  white 
gate  of  Eiilands ,  with  its  fine  woods,  which  are  open  to  the  public.) 
We  keep  to  the  right,  pass  the  church  and  vicarage  (left),  and  reach 
(4  min.)  a  gate  across  the  road.  In  ^  2  M.  more  we  reach  a  second  gate, 
where  we  find  ourselves  just  below  the  tower  on  Leith  Hill,  to  which  we 
may  ascend  either  by  the  direct  but  very  steep  path  (5  min.),  or  by  making 
a  detour  to  the  right.  The  *View  from  Leith  Hill  (965  ft.  5  tower  gener- 
ally open  after  12,  adm.  id.)  is  beautiful  and  extensive,  reaching  in 
clear  weather  from  the  South  Downs  and  the  English  Channel  on  the  S. 
to  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's  on  the  X.  It  is  said  that  12  or  13  counties  are 
visible.  So  many  paths  radiate  from  the  heath-clad  top  of  Leith  Hill, 
that  it  is  practically  impossible  to  give  accurate  directions  for  the  next 
part  of  the  route.  With  the  aid  of  the  Ordnance  Map  and  a  pocket  com- 
pass we  shall  probably  find  little  difficulty  in  descending  across  Wotton 
Common  and  through  the  woods,  in  a  direction  a  little  to  the  W.  of  N., 
to  the  Swiss-looking  little  village  of  O/2  hr.)  Friday  Street  ('street  or  way 
of  Friga"),  picturesquely  situated  among  trees  on  a  large  pond.  A  path 
along  the  E.  bank  of  the  stream  descends  hence  to  (1  M.)  "Wotton  House, 
the  home  of  John  Evelyn  (d.  1706),  the  Diarist  and  author  of  'Sylva\  to 
whose  love  for  trees,  inherited  by  his  descendants,  is  owing  much  of  the 


to  Ford.  ARUNDEL.  8.  Route.     61 

rich  variety  of  the  woods  in  the  district.  The  house,  an  extensive  red 
edifice  (no  admission),  contains  the  MS.  of  Evelyns  Diary,  the  prayer- 
book  used  by  Charles  I.  at  his  execution,  and  otherrelics.  The  path  keeps 
to  the  right  of  the  house  and  debouches  on  a  private  road,  which  we 
follow  to  the  left,  passing  the  front  gate  of  Wotton  House.  At  the  (5  min.) 
lodge-gate  we  may  turn  either  to  the  right  to  reach  the  highroad  from 
Guildford  to  Dorking,  or  to  the  left  (better),  crossing  the  stream  and 
taking  a  path  to  the  right  through  the  wood.  On  leaving  the  wood 
(1/2  M.)  we  follow  the  road  to  the  right  for  a  little  and  then  take  a  field- 
path  to  the  left,  which  joins  the  highroad  at  a  (I/4  M.)  cottage  known 
as  Ever  shed's.  [A  little  to  the  E.  is  the  picturesque  Crossways  Farm.] 
Continuing  our  way  to  Guildford,  we  follow  the  highroad  to  Ol-z  M.) 
Abiiiger  Hammer  and  (V'2  M.)  Gomshall  (p.  46),  where  those  who  are  fatigued 
may  rejoin  the  railway.  Beyond  Gomshall  we  soon  reach  (1  M.)  Shere 
(p.  46),  on  quitting  which  (at  the  sign-post)  we  choose  the  upper  road  to 
the  right,  leaving  Allury  (p.  46)  below  u?  to  the  left.  (Another  short 
digression  may  be  made  from  the  cross-roads  to  the  Sileut  Pool,  lying  a 
little  to  the  right  of  the  road;  key  kept  at  an  adjoining  cottage.)  This 
road  ascends  the  Alhury  Downs  to  (1  M.)  ''Neidands  Corner,  a  spot  famous 
for  the  beautiful  view  it  commands.  A  linger-post  here  indicates  our 
way  to  Guildford  across  the  short  turf  of  the  Downs  (fine  views),  passing 
several  ancient  yews.  The  Church  of  St.  Martha  (see  p.  46)  is  a  conspicuous 
object  to  the  left,  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  along  which  the  pil- 
grims' path  is  supposed  to  have  run.  After  1  M.  "we  reach  a  road,  which 
we  follow,  to  the  right,  to  O/2  M.)  a  finger-post,  where  we  take  the  field- 
path  leading  in  a  straight  direction  to  (V2  M.)  Guildfovd  (see  p.  63). 

Railway  from  Dorking  to  Guildford.  Etigaie,  Farnborough,  and  Reading^ 
see  p.  46. 

Beyond  Dorking  the  railway  runs  to  the  S.,  and  heyond (2572^^0 
Holmwood  and  (3072  ^i-)  Ockley  quits  Surrey  and  enters  Sussex. 

—  341/0  M.  Warnham.  —  371/2  M.  Horsham  (King's  Head;  Bed- 
ford; Black  Horse)  is  a  small  town  with  an  E.E.  church,  and  a  Gram- 
mar School,  founded  in  1532,  in  a  new  "building  erected  in  1893. 
The  Free  Library  was  opened  in  1892  as  a  memorial  of  Shelley 
(1792-1822),  who  was  born  at  Field  Place,  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  Horsham 
is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Guildford  (p.  63),  to  Three  Bridges  (p.  46), 
and  to  Shoreham  and  Worthing  (p.  52).  —  44  M.  Billingshurst.  — 
50  M.  Pulborough  (Swan). 

From  Pulbokough  to  Midhdest  and  Chichester,  23  M.,  railway  in 
1-11/4  hr.  (fares  3s.  llrf.,  2.<;.  lOd.,  is.  I'^j-yd.).  —  51/4  M.  Petworth  (Half-Moon). 
'-Pettcorth  Hou^e  (Lord  Leconfield)  contains  a  valuable  collection  of  pictures 
(Vandyck,  Holl)cin.  Rembrandt,  Turner,  etc.)  and  also  some  important 
sculptures    (adm.   11-1  iind  2-4,  Tues.  and  Thurs.);  the  Park  is  open  daily. 

—  11  M.  Midhurst  (Angel)  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  fine 
ruins  of  "Cowdra?/ ,  a  magnificent  16th  cent,  mansion,  burned  down  in 
1793.  The  church  of  Trotton.,  8V2  M.  to  the  E.,  contains  what  is  said  to 
be  the  earliest  brass  in  Enuland  to  a  ladv  (1310).  Midhurst  is  also  the 
terminus  of  a  branch-line  (L.  &  S.W.  E.)  to  (91/2  M.)  Petorsfield  (p.  66).  — 
131/2  M.  Cocking.  I6V2  M.  Singleton  is  the  station  for  Goodwood  race-course 
(p.  55).     193,4  M.  Lavant.  —  28  M.  Chichester  (p.  53). 

Immediately  heyond  Pulborough  we  oro>s  the  Anin.  —  54  M. 
Amberley  has  a  ruined  castle  of  the  14th  century.  About  4  M.  to  the 
E.  is  Bignor,  with  the  remains  of  a  *Roman  Villa  (adm.  Is.). 

571^  2  M.  Krundel  (Norfolk  Arms;  Bridge),  a  small  town  situated 
on  the  river  Arun.  In  the  vicinity  is  *Arundel  Castle,  the  magni- 
ficent seat  of  the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  which  was  founded  as  early  as 


62     Route  9.  WEYBRIDGE.  From  London 

the  10th  century.  In  1102  it  was  besieged  by  Henry  I.,  and  after- 
wards by  Stephen,  and  it  was  again  attacked  in  1644  by  the  Par- 
liamentary troops  and  left  in  ruins.  The  portion  of  the  building 
now  used  as  a  residence  was  begun  in  1791.  The  ancient  *Keep, 
dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  and  the  Dairy  (to  the  E.)  are  shown  on 
Mon.  &  Frid.  (12-4)  by  tickets  obtained  gratis  at  the  Norfolk  Arms. 
Entrance  by  the  principal  gateway  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town ; 
the  top  commands  a  line  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country.  The 
*Park  is  open  to  the  public.  —  The  '^Parish  Church,  erected  in  138Q, 
with  the  adjoining  chapel  of  a  Benedictine  Abbey  which  once  stood 
here,  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  Fitz-Alan  Chapel,  or  chancel  (no 
admission),  contains  old  monuments  of  the  Arundel  family.  The 
Park  affords  several  charming  walks.  The  fine  modern  Church  of 
St.  Philip  Neri  (Rom.  Cath.)  was  built  by  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  at  a 
cost  of  lOOjOOOZ.  The  Arun  is  noted  for  its  mullet,  a  dish  of  which 
may  be  obtained  at  the  hotel. 

60  M.  Ford  Junction,  see  p.  53. 

9.    From  London  to  Portsmouth. 

74  M.  London  and  South  Westeen  Railway  from  Waterloo  in  21/2-3  lirs. 
(fares  12s.  2c/.,  Is.Sd.,  Qs.id..,  return-tickets,  valid  for  one  month,  21«.  Ad., 
i'Ss.  6c?.,  Il5.  6<i.).  —  This  is  the  direct  route,  but  Portsmouth  may  also  be 
reachedby  the  London,  Brighton,andSocth  Coast Eailwat,  via i^o?-(i/MHc- 
tion  (comp.  p.  53),  from  London  Bridge  and  Victoria  (same  times  and  fares). 

The  train  runs  at  first  on  a  viaduct  above  the  streets  of  London. 
Vauxhall,  the  first  station,  is  still  within  the  town;  but  we  emerge 
into  the  country  near  (41/2  -^l-)  Ciapham  Junction^  through  which 
1200  trains  pass  daily,  and  beyond  which  picturesque  scenery  is  tra- 
versed by  the  line.  —  l^/.i  M.  Wimbledon  lies  a  little  to  the  S.  of  Wim- 
bledon Common,  a  favourite  golflng-ground  for  Londoners.  At 
(81/9  M.)  Raynes  Park  a  loop-line  diverges  to  Epsom  (p.  59),  Leather- 
head  (j^.  59),  and  Guildford  (p.  63).  Near  (10  M.)  Coombe  ^^  Maiden, 
to  the  right,  is  Coombe  House.  About  2  M.  beyond  (12  M.)  Surbiton 
the  branch-line  to  Hampton  Court  (see  Baedeker's  London^  diverges 
on  the  right.  — 14^/2  ^1-  Esher  (Bear),  celebrated  in  the  verse  of  Pope 
and  Thomson.  Esher  Place,  once  the  palace  of  Cardinal  Wolsey,  has 
been  rebuilt.  In  the  vicinity  stands  Claremont,  once  the  property 
of  Lord  Clive,  inhabited  at  a  later  period  by  the  Princess  Char- 
lotte (who  died  here  in  1817)  and  her  husband,  Leopold,  late  king 
of  the  Belgians.  It  was  afterwards  the  residence  of  Louis  Philippe 
and  his  wife,  both  of  whom  died  here,  and  is  now  occupied  by  the 
Duchess  of  Albany.  The  Sandown  Races  are  runnear  Esher.  — 17  M. 
Waltonisthe  station  for  Walton-on-Thames,  1  M.  to  the  N.  (p.  224). 

19  M,  Weybridge  [Hand  ^  Spear ;  Lincoln  Arms ;  *Oatlands 
Park,  see  below),  prettily  situated  near  the  Thames,  1  M.  from  the 
station.  To  the  N.  is  Oatlands  Park,  formerly  a  royal  demesne,  and 
afterwards  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle.     The  house, 


to  Portsmouth.  GUILDFORD.  9.  Route.     63 

rebuilt  in  1794,  is  now  a  favourite  hotel.  In  the  neighbourhood 
rises  *St.  George's  Hill  (520  ft.),  commanding  a  beautiful  view, 
which  includes  on  the  N.  "Windsor  Castle  and  Hampton  Court.  A 
little  farther  on,  a  branch  diverges  to  Addlestone^  Chertsey,  and 
Virginia  Water  (see  Baedeker's  London). 

241/2  M.  Woking  (Albion,  Railway  Hotel ,  near  the  station ; 
White  Hart,  in  the  village,  I72M.  to  the  S.  ;  Rail.  Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  where  our  line  diverges  from  the  line  to  Basingstoke  (Win- 
chester, Southampton;  seep.  74).  The  floriculturist  should  visit 
*Waterer's  Nursery  at  Knaphill  (21/2  M. ;  turning  to  the  left  at  the 
station),  especially  in  June,  when  the  rhododendrons  are  in  bloom. 
The  old  church,  in  the  E.E.  and  Dec.  styles,  was  restored  in  1878. 
The  ruins  of  Newark  Abbey  lie  on  the  Wey,  2^/2  M.  to  the  E.  of 
Woking.     Woking  Cemetery,  see  p.  74. 

31  M.  Guildford  (White  Lion;  Mliite  Hart;  Angel;  Rail.  Re- 
freshmt. Rooms),  the  county-town  of  Surrey,  with  14,320  inhab., 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  Wey ,  and  well  deserving  Cobbett's 
description  of  it  as  the  most  'happy-looking'  town  he  ever  saw. 
It  consists  chiefly  of  one  main  street,  many  of  the  buildings  in 
which  are  most  quaint  and  picturesque. 

Gaildford  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  its  records  extending  back  to 
the  10th  cent. ,  while  there  is  also  some"  reason  to  think  that  there  was 
a  Roman  station  on  the  same  site.  According  to  some  historians,  the 
massacre  here  in  1036  of  the  Norman  attendants  of  Alfred  the  Atheling 
was  among  the  chief  links  in  the  chain  of  events  leading  to  Duke  "Wil- 
liam's invasion  of  England.  The  town  was  formerly  the  centre  of  a  con- 
siderable cloth-making  industry,  and  its  corn-market  is  still  one  of  the 
most  important  in  the  S.  of  England. 

The  most  prominent  building  is  the  keep  of  the  old  Norman 
Castle,  which  stands  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  High  St.,  rising  to 
a  height  of  70  ft.,  with  walls  10  ft.  in  thickness;  the  grounds  are 
now  a  public  garden.  Below  the  castle  are  large  caverns  in  the 
chalk,  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  connected  with  the  crypt 
under  the  Angel  Hotel.  —  Near  the  top  of  the  High  St.,  on  the 
N.  side,  is  Archbishop  Abbot's  Hospital  ,  a  picturesque  Tudor 
building  founded  in  1619  for  decayed  tradesmen  and  their  widows. 
It  contains  some  interesting  portraits  (Wycliffe,  Calvin,  etc.)  and 
two  good  stained-glass  windows  (in  the  chapel).  —  Opposite  the 
hospital  is  Trinity  Church,  with  a  monument  to  Archbp.  Abbot  (d. 
1633;  in  the  S.  aisle),  who  was  born  at  Guildford,  and  Speaker 
Onslow.  —  The  Church  of  St.  Mary,  in  Quarry  St.,  is  more  inter- 
esting, dating  in  great  part  from  the  Norman  period.  Visitors  should 
notice  the  grotesque  carvings  of  the  roof  and  the  paintings  in  the 
Baptist's  Chapel,  attributed  to  "William  of  Florence  (ca.  1250). 

Other  more  or  less  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  Guildhall 
(High  St.),  a  brick  and  timber  edifice  of  1682,  with  some  historic- 
al portraits;  the  Grammar  School,  at  the  head  of  the  High  St., 
dating  from  the  16th  cent.;  and  the  Royal  Surrey  County  Hospital, 
on  the  Farnham  Road,  near  the  railway-station. 


64     Route  9.  HASLEMERE.  From  London 

Guildford  is  a  railway-centre  of  some  importance,  being  the  junction 
of  the  Reading  and  Eeigate  branch  of  the  S.  E.  R.  with  the  line  of  the 
S.  W.  R.  to  Farnham  and  Winchester  (see  p.  74)  and  the  L.  B.  S,  C. 
line  to  Horsham  (p.  61). 

Environs.  Visitors  to  Guildford  had  better  begin  their  excursions 
by  an  ascent  of  St.  Catharine's  Hill,  a  small  height  IV4  31.  to  the  S.,  between 
the  highroad  and  the  river,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  surrounding 
district.  At  the  top  is  a  small  ruined  chapel,  dating  from  the  beginning 
of  the  14th  century.  —  This  walk  may  be  made  part  of  a  pleasant  round 
of  about  6-7  M.  by  proceeding  to  the  S.W.,  via  Arlington  and  Littleton, 
to  (2  31.)  Loseleu ,  a  fine  Elizabethan  mansion  (no  admission)  in  a  well- 
wooded  park.  Hence  we  keep  due  W.  to  (1  M.)  the  village  of  Compton,  with 
a  very  interesting  Xorman  church,  with  an  almost  unique  double-storied 
chancel.  From  Compton  we  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  (1  M.)  Hog's  Back 
(see  below)  and  follow  the  ridie  eastwards  (views)  back  to  (I1/2M.)  Guildford. 

To  reach  (21/2  31.)  St.  Martha's  Church  (see  p.  46)  from  Guildford,  we 
leave  the  town  by  Quarry  St.  and  the  Portsmouth  (S.)  road,  and  on  passing 
the  (I/2  31.)  old  toll-house,  near  Shalford  Park,  take  the  shady  lane  to  the 
left.  Xear  the  end  of  the  lane  we  follow  a  footpath  to  the  right,  crossing 
a  small  plantation  of  firs,  and  reach  a  cottage  at  the  foot  of  Chantry  Downs, 
along  which  lies  the  rest  of  our  route.  To  vary  the  return-route  we  may 
descend  the  N.E.  side  of  St.  Martha's  Hill  and  make  for  (IV2  31.)  Newlands 
Corner  (p.  61) ,  whence  we  follow  the  ridge  to  (23/4  M.)  Guildford  as  de- 
scribed at  p.  61. 

A  breezy  walk  of  10  M.,  with  unimpeded  views  on  either  side,  may 
be  enjoyed  by  following  the  road  which  leads  along  the  curious  chalk 
ridge  called  the  Hog's  Back  (350-500  ft.)  to  Farnham  (p.  75).  On  reaching 
(8  M.)  the  end  of  the  ridse,  Waverley  Abbey  (p.  65)  may  be  included  in  the 
walk  by  a  digression  of  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  (in  all  11V2"M.).  —  Other  points 
of  interest  within  easy  walking  distance  of  Guildford  are  *Sutton  Place 
&I2  31.  to  the  X.),  a  Renaissance  mansion  of  the  Tudor  period,  with 
highly  interesting  terracotta  decorations;  Clandon  Park.  2  M.  to  the  IN'. E., 
on  the  road  to  (12  M.)  Leatherhead  (p.  59):  and  Godalming  (see  below), 
4  M.  to  the  S.  A  favourite  excursion  is  the  ascent  of  the  Hindhead  (p.  65), 
12  M  to  the  S.W.,  but  this  is  usually  accomplished  by  taking  the  train  to 
Haslemere  (see  below). 

From  Guildford  to  Dorking  on  foot,  see  p.  60.  —  Railway  to  Dorking 
and  Eeigate  and  to  Farnborough  and  Reading,  see  p.  46  ;  to  Horsham,  p.  61. 

Beyond  Guildford  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  soon 
reaches  (341  '.^  m.)  Famcombe  and  — 

35  M.  Godalming  (King's  Arms;  Angel),  a  quaint  little  coun- 
try-town (accent  on  the  first  syllahle),  with  several  old-fashioned 
timber-houses  (ITth  cent.).  The  Church  near  the  station  is  a  large 
building  with  a  jS'orman  tower.  On  the  hill  to  the  N.  is  the  im- 
posing new  building  of  the  Charterhouse  School,  removed  from 
London  to  Godalming  in  1872;  it  has  room  for  500  boys.  The 
library  contains  the  MS.  of  'The  New  comes"  by  Thackeray  and  many 
of  the  original  'Punch'  drawings  by  Leech,  both  novelist  and  artist 
having  been  educated  at  the  Charterhouse.  The  country  round  God- 
alming affords  abundance  of  charming  walks.  —  SG^/o  M.  Milford; 
381/2  M.  Witley,  with  an  E.  E.  church  containing  some  brasses. 

43  M.  Haslemere  (White  Horse,  R.  &  A.  83.  Bd.  ;  Railway  Inn) 
is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  Blackdown  and  the  Hindhead, 
two  fine  points  of  view.  George  Eliot  lived  at  Brookbank  in  Shotter 
Mill ,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  station  ;  Tennyson  built  himself  a 
house  (Aldworth;  where  he  died  in  1892)  on  the  S.  side  of  Black- 


to  Portsmouth.  HINDHEAD.  9.  Route.    65 

down  Hill,  which  rises  about  2  M.  to  the  S.;  and  Prof.  Tyndall 
(1820-93)  spent  the  last  years  of  Ms  life  in  a  house  near  the  top 
of  Hindhead. 

Fbom  Haslemere  TO  THE  HiNDHEAD,  21/2  M.  On  leaving  the  station  we 
turn  to  the  left,  soon  afterwards  turning  to  the  left  again,  crossing  the 
railway,  and  passing  to  the  right  of  the  church.  At  the  (3/4  M.)  bifur- 
cation we  descend  to  the  left,  passing  a  red,  gabled  house.  The  long 
dark  ridge  of  the  Hindhead  is  now  in  full  view  ahead  of  us.  We  continue 
straight  "on  along  the  hollow  lane,  keeping  the  hedge  close  on  the  left, 
until  the  (1/2  hr.)  top  of  the  saddle  is  gained,  whence  there  is  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  summit,  across  picturesque  stretches  of  gorse  and  heather. 
The  lane  now  becomes  a  cart-track  and  descemls  steeply,  afterwards  ascend- 
ing again  and  leading  to  (45-50  min.)  Windy  Gap^  close  under  the  summit. 
[Another  route  leads  at  once  under  the  railway,  to  the  right  (S.)  of  the 
station,  and  turns  to  the  right  a  little  way  up  the  hill.  The  lane  thus  en- 
tered runs  right  up  to  (2  M.)  the  Hindhead.J  The  highest  point  of  the 
Hindhead  (903  ft.),  marked  by  a  granite  cross,  commands  a  most  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  view,  including  the  Hampshire  Downs  on  the  S.  W. 
and  Leith  Hill  (p.  60)  on  the  E.  The  cross  and  the  name  (Gibbet  Hill) 
attached  to  this  spot  commemorate  the  murder  of  a  sailor  in  1786  at  a 
point  (marked  by  a  stone)  on  the  old  Portsmouth  road,  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  hill,  and  the  fact  that  the  murderers  were  afterwards  captured  and 
hanged  on  the  scene  of  their  crime.  The  romantic  and  lonely  hollow 
round  which  the  road  here  runs ,  mentioned  by  Dickens  in  'Nicholas 
Nickleby',  is  called  the  *Devil's  Punch  Bowl;  and  the  tourist  should  make 
his  way  along  it,  either  by  the  old  coach-road  or  by  the  road  on  the 
ridge  of  the  Hindhead,  to  the  W.,  to  (3/4  M.)  the  Hut's  Hotel,  which  lies 
a  little  beyond  the  point  where  the  roads  meet. 

From  the  Hindhead  to  Farnham  via  Frensham  Ponds  and  Waver- 
LEY  Abbet,  9-10  M.  Tolerable  walkers,  who  do  not  wish  to  return  to  Hasle- 
mere, may  extend  the  Hindhead  excursion  very  agreeably  as  follows.  From 
the  Koyai  Huts  Inn  we  follow  the  Farnham  road  to  the  K.W.  and  after 
1/3  M.  diverge  from  it  to  the  left  by  the  road  indicated  by  the  sign-post 
as  leading  to  Churt  and  Frensham.  This  leads  across  a  wide  expanse  of 
moor  to  Churt  and  (4M.)  Frensham  Great  Pond,  a  small  lake  in  the  middle 
of  Frensham  Common,  a  sandy  heath,  with  three  curiously-shaped  mounds 
known  as  the  DeviVs  Jumps.  We  keep  to  the  road,  which  skirts  the  E. 
(right),  side  of  the  pond.  At  the  (1/2 M.)  cross-roads,  where  there  is  a 
school,  we  keep  to  the  right,  soon  reaching  O/4  M.)  a  bridge  over  the 
Wey.  To  the  right  is  Pierrepont  House.,  a  pleasing  example  of  Korman 
Shaw's  modern-antique  style.  Ascending  the  hill  for  a  few  minutes  more, 
we  reach  Millbridge,  where  we  keep  straight  on  if  bound  for  Farnham  direct 
(3V2  M.),  or  turn  to  the  right  at  the  post-office  if  going  to  Waverley 
Abbey.  In  the  latter  case  we  turn  to  the  left  at  (IV4  M.)  Til/ord,  and 
after  '/s  M*  more  to  the  right.  1/4  ^l-  Bridge,  where  we  keep  straight  on  up 
the  hill.  At  the  (5  min.)  top  we  diverge  to  the  left  and  follow  the  cart 
track  through  the  wood,  which  rejoins  the  road  1/2  M-  farther  on,  a  little 
above  the  entrance  to  Waverley  Abbey,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  on 
application  to  the  lodge-keeper.  The  remains  of  this  Cistercian  monastery, 
of  the  12th  cent.,  which  is  said  to  have  suggested  to  Walter  Scott  the 
title  of  his  first  novel,  are  fragmentary,  but  they  are  very  prettily 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Wey.  —  Waverley  Abbey  is  2  M.  from  Farn- 
ham by  the  direct  road.  —  Farnham.  see  p.  75. 

Beyond  Haslemere  are  (47  M.)  Liphook  (Royal  Anchor)  and 
(51 V2  M.)  Liss  (Spread  Eagle),  both  good  centres  for  pedestrians. 

About  5  M.  to  the  X.W.  of  Lisa  is  Selborne  (Queen),  the  home  of 
Gilbert  White  (d.  1793).  who  has  left  a  full  and  loving  description  of  the 
district  in  his  'Natural  History  of  Selborne'.  Walkers  to  Selborne  may 
go  on  to  (b  M.)  Alton  (Swan),  a  station  on  the  Aldershot,  Farnham,  and 
Winchester  branch  of  the  8.  W.  Railway. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit,  5 


66     Route  10.  ISLE  OF  WIGHT.  Isle  of 

55  M.  Petersfield  (Red  Lion;  Dolphin),  a  small  town  with 
a  large  grammar-school,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (^97-2  ^0 
Midhurst  (p.  61).  Beyond  Petersfield  the  train  penetrates  the  chalky 
South  Downs  by  a  tunnel,  passes  (6372  M.)  Rowland's  Castle,  and 
reaches  (66  M.)  Havant.  —  Thence  to  (74  M.)  Portsmouth,  seeR.  7. 

10.    Isle  of  Wight. 

Railway  from  London  (Sojith  Wesiern  Railway  from  Waterloo  Station, 
comp.  R.  9;  or  London.  Brighton,  and  South  Coast  Railway  from  Victoria 
or  London  Bridge,  see  R.  7)  to  Portsmouth  Harbour  in  21/4-3V4  brs.  (fares 
125.  4rf.,  7s.  9d.,  6«.  2d.');  to  Rvde,  Isle  of  Wight,  in  23/4-5  hrs.  (fares  13«. 
lid..  8s.  lid.,  7s.  id. ;  return,  available  for  a  month,  24s.  8c?..  15s.  lOd..  14s  ). 
Another  direct  route  from  London  to  the  Isle  of  Wight  is  by  the  South 
Western  Railway  to  Stokes  Bay  (p.  80),  to  the  W.  of  Portsmouth,  and  thence  by 
steamer  in  ^j^  hr.  to  Ryde  (same  time  and  fares).  Through-tickets  via  Stokes 
Bay  are  also  available  via  Portsmouth.  —  Steamboat  from  Portsmouth  to 
Ryde  in  '.'2  hr.,  at  frequent  intervals  during  the  day,  fares  Is.  and  Sd. ; 
return-fares  Is.  6d.,  Is.  Steamers  from  Southampton,  see  p.  74;  from  Ly- 
mingion.  p.  72.  Steamers  also  ply  from  Portsmouth  and  Southsea  to  Sea 
View  and  Bembridge  in  1-1 V4  br. 

In  favourable  weather  the  finest  points  of  the  island  may  be  visited 
in  Three  Days:  —  ist  Day.  From  Ryde  to  Shanklin  by  rail  (fares  2s.,  Is. 
id.,  Id.)  in  25  min. ;  thence  on  foot  to  Shanklin  Chine,  and  to  Ventnor 
via  Bonchurch,  in  V/2  hr. ;  in  the  afternoon  to  Blackgang  and  back  in 
41/2  hrs.  by  coach  (comp.  p.  70).  —  2nd  Day.  From  Ventnor  to  Freshwater 
and  Alum  Bay  by  coach  in  3V2  hrs.,  visiting  the  Needles,  and  returning  by 
coach  to  Freshwater  (fare  about.  7«.) ;  from  Freshwater  to  Newport  by  train 
in  3/4  hr.  —  3rd  Day.  Excursions  from  Newport;  from  Newport  to  Cowes, 
rail  in  V4  br.  —  Alternative  routes  for  the  second  and  third  days  :  —  2nd  Day. 
From  Ventnor  to  Newport  (10  M.)  by  coach  (p.  70)  ;  excur.sions  from  New- 
port. —  3rd  Day.  From  Newport  to  Yarmouth  and  Freshwater  by  train 
(p.  72),  in  3/4  hr.,  visiting  Alum  Bay  and  the  Needles-,  in  the  afternoon 
back  to  Newport,  and  thence  to  Cowes.  —  Three  days  spent  in  this 
manner  will  show  the  chief  beauties  of  the  island,  but  those  who  have 
time  to  spare  will  prefer  to  spend  at  least  7-10  days  here.  —  To  see 
as  much  as  possible  in  One  Day  ,  take  an  early  train  from  R^de  to 
Ventnor,  arriving  at  the  latter  place  in  time  for  the  coach  (10  a.m.) 
to  Freshwater  and  Alum  Bay.  and  back  to  Freshwater  (as  above);  in  the 
afternoon  proceed  by  train  from  Freshwater  to  Newport,  and  vi.sit  Caris- 
brooke  Castle  ;  then  to  Ryde  or  Cowes  by  late  train.  —  Two  Days:  — 
1st  Day.  From  Ryde  to  Newport  by  train  ;  to  Carisbrooke  Castle  on  foot; 
from  Newport  to  Shanklin  by  rail ;  from  Shanklin  to  Ventnor  on  foot ; 
spend  night  at  Ventnor.  —  2nd  Day.  Coach  (as  above)  to  Freshwater  and 
Alum  Bay  (visiting  the  Needles),  and  back  to  Freshwater;  train  from 
Freshwater  to  Newport;  railway  to  Cowes;  steamboat  to  Portsmouth  or 
Southampton. 

The  fares  of  the  Isle  of  Wight  railway  are  very  high,  and  third-class 
carriages  are  generally  provided  only  on  one  or  two  trains  daily,  running 
at  an  inconveniently  early  hour.  As,  however,  the  distances  are  short, 
the  traveller  will  find  that  the  numerous  coaches,  supplemented  by  a 
little  walking,  will  make  him  comparatively  independent  of  the  railway. 
—  In  the  height  of  the  season  the  island  is  crowded  with  visitors,  and 
accommodation  is  often  difficult  to  obtain  unless  previously  ordered. 
Boarding-houses  and  lodgings  are  numerous. 

A  trip  round  the  island  (occupying  5-7  hrs.),  for  which  an  oppor- 
tunity is  usually  afforded  thrice  a  week  in  summer  by  steamers  from 
Ryde  and  Cowes,  is  very  pleasant  in  fine  weather. 

The  *Isle  of  "Wight,  the  Vectis  of  the  Romans,  lying  from  3  to 


Wight.  RYDE.  10.  Route.     67 

6  M.  distant  from  the  S.  coast  of  England,  contains  within  a  com- 
paratively narrow  compass  a  remarkahle  variety  of  charming  scenery. 
In  circumference  it  measures  about  65  M.  ;  from  E.  to  W.  it  is  22  M. 
long,  and  from  N.  to  S.  13  M.  broad.  Pop.  (1891)  78,720.  The 
highest  points  are  St.  Catherine's  Hill  (p.  70)  to  the  S.W.,  which 
is  830  ft.  high,  and  Shanklin  Down  to  the  S.E.,  795  ft.  in  height. 
The  Undercliff  on  the  S.,  and  Alum  Bay  and  Freshwater  Cliffs  on 
the  W.  are  the  finest  points.  —  The  river  Medina  divides  the  island 
into  two  portions,  or  hundreds^  called  the  East  and  West  Medina, 
each  comprising  16  parishes.  The  S.  part  is  sometimes  spoken  of 
as  the  Bach  of  the  Island. 

B.yde. —  "Pier  Hotel-,  -Esplanade;  Sivier's;  Eagle,  all  on  the 
beach,  with  a  fine  view.  In  Union  Street:  Kent;  Yelf's.  All  these  are 
first-class  hotels,  the  Pier  and  the  Esplanade  being  the  most  expensive : 
R.  &  A.  4s.  6c?.,  D.  3s.  6d.  to  5s.  —  Higher  up  (beyond  Yelfs).  about  i/s  M. 
from  the  Pier,  Crown,  R.  &  A.  3s.  6J.,  commercial.  —  Toj/wgr's  Restaurant, 
30  Union  Street;  Albany,  on  the  Esplanade.  —  Private  lodgings  not  ex- 
orbitant. —  Post  Office,  Union  Street.  —  Regattas  in  Aug.  and  Sept.  — 
Theatre,  at  the  top  of  Union  St.  —  Vectis  Physical  Recreation  Courts, 
Bennett  St.  —  Baths  at  the  end  of  the  short  pier  (adm.  6c?.), 

The  railway  at  Ryde  runs  out  to  the  end  of  the  pier  (Pier  Head  Sta- 
tion), and  travellers  with  through-tickets  to  Ryde  are  conveyed  without 
extra  charge  to  the  Pier  Gates  or  St.  John''s  Road  (town)  stations.  Passen- 
gers for  other  parts  of  the  island  are  taken  on  without  change  of  carriage. 

Coaches  run  from  Ryde  in  summer  to  Ventnor,  Shanklin,  Osborne, 
Newport,  and  other  places  of  interest. 

Ryde,  an  agreeable  and  thriving  watering-place  (10,952  inhab.), 
with  an  Esplanade,  nearly  2  M.  long,  affords  many  pleasant  walks. 
The  Promenade  Pier  (adm.  Id.'),  ^/2'^i-  in  length,  is  a  favourite  and 
fashionable  promenade  (*Restaurant3;  along  one  side  run  an  electric 
tramway-line  and  the  pier  railway  (see  above).  The  School  of  Art, 
in  George  St.,  contains  a  small  museum.  All  Saints  Church,  designed 
by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  has  a  lofty  tower  and  spire  (good  view  from 
the  tower;  small  fee).  To  the  W.  of  the  pier  is  the  building  of  the 
Royal  Victoria  Yacht  Club.  To  the  S.E.  of  Ryde  lie  a  number  of 
picturesque  country-seats,  and  the  pleasant  villages  of  Spring  Vale, 
Sea  View  (Crown),  with  a  long  pier  (steamers  to  Portsmouth),  and 
St.  Helen's  (p.  68).    The  surrounding  district  is  finely  wooded. 

To  Quarr  Abbey  and  Fishbourne,  a  pleasant  walk  of  2  hrs.  (there 
and  back).  Starting  from  the  Crown  Hotel,  we  descend  Thomas  Street 
to  the  N.,  and  take  the  first  turning  to  the  left  (Spencer  Road;  over  one 
of  the  gates  in  which  we  observe  the  figure  of  a  stag);  we  then  walk 
straight  on  till  we  reach  (10  min.)  a  small  gate.  To  the  right,  on  the 
other  side,  is  a  second  gate,  opening  on  a  footpath,  which  leads  in  10  min. 
to  Binstead  Church  (rebuilt  in  1842).  The  figure  of  a  man  on  a  ram's  head  over 
the  gateway  here  is  said  to  have  been  a  Saxon  idol.  We  next  turn  to  the 
right,  and  reach  a  point  where  we  see  a  road  on  the  left,  a  narrow  wood- 
path  on  the  right,  and  another  road  between  the  two.  We  take  the  last  or 
intermediate  track,  arriving  after  a  few  paces  opposite  the  gate  of  a  private 
dwelling,  where  we  take  the  path  to  the  left.  Emerging  from  this  on  to 
the  highroad  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  in  10  min.  reach  the  inconsiderable, 
but  prettily-situated  ruin  of  'ftuarr  Abbey,  an  old  Cistercian  monastery, 
founded  in  1132.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  neighbouring  quarries, 
which  are  rich  in  fossils  and  much  visited  by  geologists.  —  From  the  ruin 

5* 


68     Boute  10.  SHANKLIN.  Me  of 

we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction,  passing  through  the  gate  and  archwav, 
to  0/4  hr.)  Fishbourne  or  Fishhouse  (Inn,  well  spoken  of),  picturesquely 
situated  amid  luxuriant  wood  at  the  entrance  of  Wootton  Creek.  Charming 
view.     We  return  to  Ryde  by  the  same  road. 

From  Ryde  to  Newport.  The  direct  railway  route  is  by  Small- 
brook\  Ashley,  Haven  Street.  Wootton.  and  Whippingham  (20-25  min. ;  fares 
25.,  I5.  bd.,  Is.  or  8V2C?- i  comp.  Map").  Whippingham  is  the  station  for 
Osborne  (see  p.  74).  In  Whippingham  Church,  designed  by  the  late  Prince 
Consort,  the  Princess  Beatrice  was  married  to  Prince  Henry  of  Batten- 
berg,  in  1885,  It  contains  a  medallion  of  the  Prince  Consort  by  Theed  and 
a  font  designed  by  Princesses  Christian  and  Louise.  The  Queen  attends 
the  service  here  when  she  is  residing  at  Osborne.  —  Newport  may  also 
be  reached  by  railway  from  Ryde  or  Ventnor  via  Sundown  (see  below). 

From  Ryde  to  Ventnor,  12  M.,  railway  in  V2-V4  ^^-  (fares  from 
St.  John's  Road  3s.,  2^.,  11V2^-,  from  the  Pier  Head  4s.,  2s.  lOrf., 
Is.  A^l^d.^.  —  From  the  Pier  Head  the  train  runs  along  the  pier, 
stopping  at  the  Pkr  Gates  at  its  landward  end,  to  St.  Johns  Road, 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  town  of  Ryde.  The  railway  then  runs  S. 
to  (4  M.  from  St.  John's  Road)  Brading  (Bugle;  Wheatsheaf),  a  small 
and  ancient  town  at  the  foot  of  Brading  Down.  The  ancient  stocks 
and  bull-baiting  ring  are  still  preserved  here.  The  Church  contains 
the  burial-chapel  of  the  Oglanders,  a  family  which  came  over  to 
England  with  William  the  Conqueror;  their  ancestral  seat  of  Nun- 
well,  in  the  midst  of  a  handsome  park,  is  in  the  neighbourhood. 
At  Morton  Farm,  near  Brading,  are  the  remains  of  a  large  *Roman 
Villa,  with  tesselated  floors  (adm.  Is.;  children  6d.).  A  series  of 
Roman  coins  (A.D.  222-350),  numerous  tiles,  window-glass,  and  a 
human  skeleton  have  been  found  among  the  ruins. 

Branch-line  from  Brading  to  St.  Helenas  and  (3  M.)  Bemhridge,  at  the 
mouth  of  Brading  Harbour  or  estuary  of  the  Tar,  part  of  which  has  lately 
been  reclaimed.  Bembridge  [Royal  Spithead  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from  ks.  (V/., 
D.  bs.)  is  frequented  for  sea-bathing  and  has  direct  steamboat  commun- 
ication with  Portsmouth  (see  p.  66j.  Adjoining  it  are  excellent  golfing- 
links.  —  About  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Brading,  at  the  foot  of  Bembridge 
Down  (355  ft),  is  the  church  of  Taverland,  with  a  Norman  door  and 
chancel -arch.     Towards   the    sea  Bembridge  Down  ends  in  Culver  Cliffs. 

6  M.  Sandown  (^Sandown  Hotel;  Pier;  King's  Head;  York, 
well  spoken  of,  R.  &  A.  4s.),  the  junction  for  Newchurch,  Horringford, 
and  Newport  (p.  71),  a  thriving  town  and  frequented  bathing-place 
with  3600  inhab.,  a  pier  (extended  in  1895),  and  an  esplanade. 

8I/2  M.  Shanklin.  —  'Hollier's  ;  -Hixton's  Royal  Spa,  on  the  Espla- 
nade; Marine  Hotel,  near  the  station;  Daish's,  in  the  town:  Clarendon. 
—  Numerous  boarding-houses  on  the  Esplanade. 

Coaches  ply  from  Shanklin  to  Blackgang,  Carisbrooke,  and  Newport, 
to  Cowes  and  Osborne,  and  to  Freshwater  and  Alum  Bay.  —  Cab  from 
the  station  to  the  village  or  cliffs,  for  1-2  pers.,  with  one  horse  is.,  with 
two  horses  Is.  6d.,  to  the  shore  2s.  6d.  or  3s.  Qd. ;  each  addit.  pers.  6d.  or  9rf. 

Shanklin  (300  ft.),  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley,  is  now  an  ex- 
tensive watering-place  with  3277  inhab.,  a  good  beach,  and  a  pier. 
In  1861  its  population  was  only  355.  The  picturesque  old  Rectory 
is  completely  overgrown  with  unusually  fine  myrtles.  Close  to  Shank- 
lin is  *Shanklin  Chine  ('ravine',  or  'cleft' ;  Inn),  a  deep  and  pic- 
turesque fissure  in  the  cliffs,  opening  towards  the  sea.  To  reach  it  we 


Wight.  VENTNOR.  10.  Route.     69 

proceed  straight  from  the  station,  in  an  easterly  direction,  for  about 
5  min. ;  then  turn  to  the  right  through  the  village,  and,  about  100 
paces  beyond  Daish's  Hotel,  descend  to  the  left.  A  little  farther  on 
a  footpath  descends,  to  the  right,  to  the  seaward  entrance  of  the 
Chine  (20  min.),  closed  by  a  gate  (adm.  3(i.).  On  a  shield  over  a 
small  fountain  are  some  lines  written  by  Longfellow  when  staying 
here  in  1868.  We  traverse  the  chine  in  about  10  minutes.  Quitting 
the  upper  end,  we  take  the  footpath  to  the  left,  which  soon  crosses 
the  carriage-road,  and  leads  us  in  20  min.  (with  beautiful  retro- 
spective views)  to  Luccombe  Chine,  another,  but  less  attractive  rav- 
ine. Without  descending  (left),  we  go  straight  on  through  the  gate. 
About  ^3  M.  farther  on,  the  path  descends  through  wood  to  the 
T.andslip',  which  it  traverses  to  (1/4  hr.)  — 

Bonchurch  (Bonchurch  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  As.  Gd.,  B.  2s.,  D.  4^.), 
lying  picturesquely  at  the  E.  extremity  of  the  *UndeTcliff,  a  curious 
rocky  plateau  or  row  of  cliffs,  V4~1V2  ^'  "^  width,  owing  its  po- 
sition and  appearance  to  a  succession  of  landslips,  and  extending 
to  Blackgang  Chine  (p.  70),  a  distance  of  6-7  M.  (To  reach  the 
village  and  hotel  we  ascend  to  the  right.)  The  old  churchyard 
(gate  opened  by  attendant)  contains  the  graves  of  John  Sterling 
(a  plain  stone  in  the  S.W.  corner),  whose  life  was  written  by  Car- 
lyle,  and  of  the  Rev.  W.  Adams,  author  of  the  'Shadow  of  the 
Cross'.  The  tiny  church  is  of  Norman  origin.  The  lovely  *Church- 
yard  of  the  new  church  is  a  little  farther  up  the  hill.  The  Pulpit 
Rock  and  Hadfield's  Lookout  or  Flagstaff  Rock,  in  the  grounds  of 
Undermount  (no  adm.),  and  *St.  Boniface  Down  (785  ft.),  command 
magnificent  views.  Either  continuing  to  follow  the  road,  or  return- 
ing to  the  path  along  the  cliffs,  we  reach,  in  20  min,  more  — 

Ventnor.  —  Hotels.  Marine,  R.  ii  A.  4s.  bJ.,  B.  Is.  6rf. ,  D.  5s.; 
Royal-,  Queen's,  pens.  10s.  6ti.  a  day;  Esplanade,  R.  Sc  A.  is.  (JJ.,  B.  2s. 
GJ.,  D.  4s.  6d. ;  all  admirably  situated,  with  view  of  the  sea.  In  the  town, 
high  up,  *Crab  &  Lobster,  with  a  pretty  garden,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.  9<i., 
pens.  10s.  6d.  per  day.  —  Second  class:  *Commercial  ,  D.  ds.;  Globe; 
Crown  &  Rose,  moderate;  Terminus  Hotel,  at  the  station,  unpretending, 
R.  &  A.  3s.  —  Solent  Temperance  Hotel,  high  up,  with  fine  view.  In 
the  vicinity  are  various  other  hotels  and  numerous  lodging-houses;  charges 
from  2-31. 

Coaches.  In  summer  the  following  excursion- coaches  ply  regularly 
from  Ventnor:  1.  To  Freshicater  Bay,  the  Needles.,  Alum  Bay,  and  back, 
starting  about  10  a.m.  and  reaching  Ventnor  again  at  7  p.m.  (fare  to 
Freshwater  and  back  6s.,  to  Alum  Bay  and  back  7s.  6d.).  A  stoppage  for 
luncheon  is  made  at  the  Freshwater  Bay  Hotel.  —  2.  To  Blackgang  Chine, 
Carisbvooke  Castle,  the  Roman  Villa,  and  Newport.,  returning_  via  Rookley, 
Appuldurcombe  Park.,  and  Wroxall  (.11  a.m.  to  6  p.m.;  fare  Os, ;  luncheon 
at  the  Blackgang  Chine  Hotel  or  at  the  Red  Lion  Hotel,  Carisbrooke). 
—  3.  To  Arreton,  Osborne,  and  Cowes,  returning  by  Newport  and  Oodshill 
(11  a.m.  to  6  p.m.;  fare  5s.;  luncheon  at  Cowes).  —  4.  To  Bonchurch, 
Shanklin,  Sandoicn,  Brading,  and  Ri/de  (11  a.m.  to  5.30  p.m. ;  5s.,  to  Shank* 
lin  and  back  3s.;  luncheon  at  Sandown  Hotel).  —  6.  To  Blackgang,  every 
morning  and  afternoon  (fare  Is.  6d.,  there  and  back  2s.). 

Ventnor,  beautifully  situated  on  Ventnor  Cove,  is  much  fre- 
quented, like  many  other  parts  of  the  island,  by  persons  suffering 


70     Route  10.  VENTNOR.  Isle  of 

from  complaints  of  the  chest.  In  winter  the  climate  is  almost  Italian 
in  its  mildness ,  frost  and  snow  being  of  rare  occurrence,  while  in 
summer  the  heat  is  tempered  by  sea-breezes.  Pop.  (1891)  5817. 
The  Royal  Victoria  Pier  was  opened  in  1887.  About  1  M.  to  the 
W.  is  Steephill  Castle,  once  occupied  by  the  Empress  of  Austria, 
with  a  beautiful  garden,  which,  however,  is  rarely  open  to  the 
public.  Opposite  is  *  Ventnor  Public  Park,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  whole  of  the  Undercliff  from  its  highest  point. 

Excursions.  The  principal  excursion  is  to  Blackgang  (coach,  see 
p.  69).  The  road  runs  at  a  high  level,  passing  the  Royal  Hotel, 
Ventnor  Park,  Steephill,  and  the  Ventnor  Consumptive  Hospital, 
to  (2M.')St.  Lawrence,  a  neat  little  village,  the  old  church  of  which 
is  the  most  ancient  in  the  island,  and  was  long  the  smallest  in 
Sreat  Britain.  On  the  left  side  of  the  road  stands  the  new  church, 
beyond  which,  on  the'  same  side,  but  far  below  the  road,  are 
the  ivy-clad  remains  of  a  small  13th  cent,  house.  [About  1^2  ^• 
to  the  N.  of  this  point  is  Whitwell,  with  an  interesting  Norman 
and  E.  E.  church.]  Farther  on  we  pass  the  prettily-environed  villa 
of  Mirables,  and  the  fishing-village  of  Puckaster,  near  which  is 
Lloyd's  Signal  Station  (left),  and  reach  (4^2  M.)  Sandrock  (*Royal 
Sandrock  Hotel),  with  a  mineral  spring,  being  the  modern  part  of 
the  village  of  Niton  (White  Lion),  which  lies  a  little  to  the  land- 
ward. Below  the  village,  on  the  southernmost  point  of  the  island, 
is  St.  Catherine's  Lighthouse.  About  1  M.  beyond  Sandrock  is 
Blackgang  (*Blackgang  Chine  Hotel),  up  to  which  point  the  road 
has  wound  along  the  foot  of  the  Undercliff.  The  fine  marine  views, 
"with  the  bright  green  of  the  trees  and  bushes,  here  recall  the  scenery 
of  the  Mediterranean.  Around  are  numerous  country-houses  and 
villas,  stacnding  in  the  midst  of  tasteful  pleasure-grounds  and  gardens. 

Adjoining  the  hotel  is  the  ravine  called  'Blackgang  Chine,  to  which 
a  steep  path,  partly  cut  into  steps,  descends;  the  rocks  here  reach  a  height 
of  400  ft.  We  enter  through  a  bazaar,  where  we  are  expected  either  to 
purchase  something  or  make  a  trifling  payment  (Gd.).  Below  is  a  fine 
stretch  of  beach.  We  return  to  the  top  leisurely  in  V'^  hr.  —  Above  Black- 
gang  is  St.  Catherine's  Hill  (830  ft.),  commanding  a  most  extensive  view 
over  land  and  sea. 

From  Ventnor  to  Freshwater  Bay  and  Alum  Bay  (22  M.  ; 

coach  in  3 1/2  hrs.  ;  fare  5s.  or  6s.).  As  far  as  (5V'2  M.)  Blackgang 
the  route  is  the  same  as  above.  Beyond  Blackgang  a  new  military 
road  runs  straight  along  the  coast  to  Freshwater  Bay,  but  the  coaches 
usually  follow  the  more  picturesque  old  road  described  below. 
This  diverges  to  the  right  beyond  the  village  of  Chale  (Clarendon 
Hotel),  and  enters  a  flatter  and  less  attractive  district.  Kingston, 
a  little  farther  on,  has  a  small  church  picturesquely  situated  on 
fhe  roadside.  Near  (10V'.2  M.)  Shorwell  is  the  fine  old  mansion  of 
Northcourt,  lying  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  woods.  About  21/2  M. 
farther  on  is  Brixton  (Five  Bells),  with  a  picturesque  old  church, 
restored  in  1852.      Next  come   (15  M.)   Mottistone  and  (16  M.) 


Wight.  NEWPORT.  10.  Route.     71 

Brooke;  the  manor-house  of  the  latter,  on  the  left,  is  pleasantly 
embowered  in  groves  of  noble  trees.  Opposite  is  a  small  new 
church.  Above  us,  on  the  right,  is  Mottistone  Down,  700  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  About  1  M.  before  reaching  Freshwater  Bay 
we  obtain  a  view  of  Yarmouth  (p.  72),  the  Solent,  and  the  main- 
land to  the  right.  From  (20  M.")  Freshwater  Bay  (p.  73)  we  may 
proceed  to  (2  M.)  Alum  Bay  (p.  73),  where  the  coach  waits  long 
enough  to  allow  of  a  visit  to  the  Needles  (p.  73). 

From  Vbntnor  to  Newport,  15  M.,  railway  in  35  min.  (fares 
3s.  Qd.,  2s.  8d.,  Is.  3cZ.),  passing  Wroxall,  Sandown  (p.  68),  Al- 
verstone,  Newchurch,  Horringford,  Merstone,  Blackwater,  and  Shide. 

A  new  direct  line  via  St.  Lawrence  (p.  70)  and  GodshiU  (see  below)  is 
now  approaching  completion. 

The  coaches,  which  are  preferable  to  the  railway,  generally  run 
via  Blaokgang  (comp.  p.  70).  The  direct  road  via  Godshill  (10  M.) 
ascends  between  Wroxall  Down  (right)  and  Rew  Down  (left)  to  (2  M.) 
Wroxall  (rail,  stat.,  see  above).  To  the  left  lies  the  noble  *Park  of 
Appuldurcombe,  containing  the  magnificent  mansion  of  that  name, 
now  used  as  a  school.  On  the  highest  point  in  the  park  stands  a 
granite  obelisk,  70  ft.  high,  and  partly  destroyed  by  lightning,  erected 
in  memory  of  Sir  Robert  Worsley,  author  of  a  complete  history  of  the 
Isle  of  Wight,  and  a  former  owner  of  this  estate.    Splendid  *View. 

41/2  M.  GodshiU  (Griffin),  with  a  large  and  interesting  church 
situated  picturesquely  on  the  top  of  a  knoll.  Beyond  (6^/2  M.)  Rook- 
ley  the  road  passes  near  Gatcombe  Park.  —  8  M.  Blackwater ; 
91/4  M.  Shide  (railway-stations,  see  above). 

10  M.  Newport.  —  Bugle;  Warburton;  Swan.  —  Wheatsheaf, 
good  second-class  house,  table-dhote  at  1.15  o'clock,  Is.  %d.  •,  Stab-,  Rose  & 
Crown,  quite  unpretending.  —  Couches  ply  in  summer  to  Ventnor  (comp. 
p.  69),  Ryde,  etc. 

Newport,  the  capital  of  the  Isle  of  Wight,  with  10,216  inhab., 
lies  on  the  Medina  (p.  67),  which  is  navigable  up  to  this  point.  It 
was  once  the  'new  port'  of  Carisbrooke  (see  p.  72),  whence  the  name. 
The  imposing  Church  contains  a  tasteful  *Monument  to  the  memory 
of  the  Princess  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Charles  I.  (see  p.  72),  by 
Marochetti,  erected  by  Queen  Victoria.  lu  the  Isle  of  Wight  Mu- 
seum, in  Quay  St.,  are  small  local  collections.  In  Sept.,  1648,  Char- 
les I.  was  brought  from  Carisbrooke  to  take  part  in  the  negotiations 
for  the  so-called'  Treaty  of  Newport',  which  were  carried  on  in  the 
Grammar  School.  On  the  fruitless  issue  of  the  negotiations  Charles 
was  removed  (Nov.  30th)  to  Hurst  Castle  in  Hampshire  (p.  95), 
which  he  soon  left  for  Whitehall  and  his  death  (Jan.  30th,  1649). 
—  About  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  Newport  rises  — 

*Cari8brooke  Castle.  (It  is  reached  by  ascending  the  High 
Street  to  the  monumental  cross ,  where  we  turn  to  the  left ;  at  the 
cross-roads  we  descend  the  road  bearing  slightly  to  the  right,  which 
almost  immediately  begins  to  ascend  and  leads  to  the  castle.) 
This   ancient,    ivy-clad    stronghold   of  the   lord   of  the  island   is 


72     Route  10.  YARMOUTH.  Isle  of 

picturesquely  placed  on  the  top  of  a  steep  eminence  (admission 
4d.,  no  gratuity). 

The  earliest  building  was  Saxon,  but  the  Keep,  tke  oldest  existing 
portion,  is  of  Norman  origin.  The  other  parts  date  chiefly  from  the  13th 
cent.,  while  the  outworks  were  added  by  Queen  Elizabeth.  Charles  I.  was 
detained  captive  here  for  a  considerable  time  before  his  execution-,  and 
his  son  Henry,  Duke  of  Gloucester,  and  his  daughter,  Princess  Elizabeth, 
were  afterwards  imprisoned  here.  The  princess  died  in  the  castle  19  months 
after  her  father's  death,  and  the  young  prince  was  released  two  years 
later.  The  remains  of  the  rooms  where  Charles  was  imprisoned,  and  of 
the  chamber  in  which  his  daughter  breathed  her  last,  may  still  he  seen. 
The  castle-well,  200  ft.  deep,  from  which  the  water  is  drawn  by  a  donkey 
inside  a  large  windlass  wheel,  is  always  an  object  of  interest  to  visitors. 
We  may  ascend  to  the  top,  and  walk  round  the  walls  of  the  castle,  the 
view  from  which  embraces  an  extensive  and  thoroughly  English  land- 
scape, with  numerous  houses  and  villages:  close  by  is  the  village  of 
Carisbrooke,  farther  oil  Newport  and  the  River  Medina,  and  in  the  distance 
the  Solent  and  the  coast  of  Hampshire.  —  The  restored  Church  of  Caris- 
brooke (Red  Lion ;  Waverley),  contemporaneous  with  the  castle,  possesses 
a  simple,  but  handsome  and  well-proportioned  tower.  A  Roman  Villa,  with 
a  tesselated  floor,  was  discovered  at  Carisbrooke,  near  the  castle,  in  1859 
(adm.  6(f.)- 

Another  very  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  S.  E.  to  the  village 
of  (3  M.)  Arreton,  lying  in  a  picturesque  valley,  the  dwelling-place  of 
Legh  Richmond's  'Dairyman's  Daughter',  whose  remains  repose  in  the 
churchyard.  A  walk  of  1/2  hr.  from  this  point  will  bring  us  to  the  summit 
of  'Arreton  Sown,  which  commands  one  of  the  tinest  and  most  varied 
prospects  in  the  island.  To  the  N.E.  the  view  is  terminated  by  Portsmouth 
and  Gosport,  while  to  the  S.  the  eye  rests  on  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Var,  which  separates  the  central  chain  of  hills  from  the  southern.  At  the 
top  are  two  large  barrows ,  in  which  some  ancient  armour  has  been  dis- 
covered. —  Arreton  and  Arreton  Down  may  also  be  conveniently  visited  from 
Ryde  or  Ventnor,  by  taking  the  train  to  Horringford  (p.  71),  which  is  1  M. 
from  Arreton. 

From  Newport  to  Yarmouth  and  Freshwater,  12  M.,  railway 
in  85-40  min.  (fares  3a-.,  2s.,  Is.).  The  first  station  is(lV4M.) 
Carisbrooke  (see  above).  To  the  right  extends  Parkhurst  Forest.  — 
57.2  M.  Calborne  is  the  station  for  Shalfleet  (with  a  Norman  church  ) 
and  for  the  fishing-village  of  Newtown,  with  its  large  salt-works, 
on  Newtown  Bay.  —  7  M.  Ningwood. 

9'/2  M.  Yarmonth  (*George  Hotel;  Bugle  ;  King^s  Head),  a  small 
town  in  a  flat  district  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yar  (not  to  he  con- 
founded with  the  stream  of  the  same  name  in  the  E.  part  of  the  is- 
land). The  church  of  St.  James  contains  the  monument  of  Sir  Ro- 
bert Holmes,  governor  of  the  island  in  1667-92.  The  Castle  was 
erected  by  Henry  VIII. 

FfioM  Yarmouth  to  Southampton.  When  time  is  limited ,  we  may 
save  ourselves  the  return- journey  to  Newport  by  taking  one  of  the 
steamers  which  ply  3-4  times  a  day  from  Yarmouth  to  Lymington  (fare 
Is.  9d.  or  Is.  2d.).  The  passage  occupies  about  1/2  hr.  From  Lymington  to 
Bishopstoke  (Southampton)  by  train  in  1  hr.  Passengers  may  book  through 
from  Yarmouth  to  London  (Waterloo).  —  Excursion- steamers  ply  from 
Yarmouth  to  Ryde,  Cowes,  Bournemouth,  etc. 

12  M.  Freshwater,  the  terminus  of  the  line  and  the  station  for 
(1  M.)  Freshwater  Gate,  (2  M.)  Totlaud  Bay ,  and  (3  M.)  Alum 
Bay,  to  all  of  which  omnibuses  ply  in  connection  with  the  trains. 


Wight.  alum:  BAY.  10.  Route.     1 6 

Freshwater  Gate  ('^Freshwater  Bay  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  4«.  6rf,,  D.  os., 
finely  situated ;  Albion,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  4^.  bd. ;  Temperance  Hotel), 
taking  its  name  from  a  cleft  in  the  rocky  coast-line,  opposite 
Freshwater  Bay ,  is  now  a  rising  little  sea-bathing  resort  and  a 
good  starting-point  for  boating- expeditions  and  other  excursions. 
In  the  neighbourhood  are  ''Lord  Holmes'  Parlour  and  Kitchen  and 
other  remarkable  caves.  Farringford,  the  marine  residence  of  the 
late  Lord  Tennyson,  the  Poet  Laureate,  lies  about  1  M.  to  the  W. 
The  bay  contains  two  isolated  rocks  resembling  the  Needles  (see 
below).    Coach  to  Yentuor,  see  p.  69. 

The  *Walk  along  the  cliffs  from  Freshwater  Bay  to  Alum  Bay 
is  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  excursions  in  the  island.  From  the 
Freshwater  Bay  Hotel  we  ascend  along  the  edge  of  the  downs,  over- 
looking the  sea,  to  (V2  lir>)  High  Down  (485  ft.),  which  is  marked 
by  a  beacon  and  affords  a  splendid  *View  of  the  sea  to  the  S.,  the 
Solent  and  the  Hampshire  coast  to  the  N.,  and  of  the  "W.  part  of 
the  island.  Totland  Bay  (see  below)  lies  below  us  on  the  N.  Con- 
tinuing to  follow  the  edge  of  the  chalk-cliffs  for  2-27-2  M.  more,  we 
come  in  sight  of  Alum  Bay  and  the  Needles.  (The  best  view  is 
obtained  from  the  fort  at  the  point,  but  visitors  are  not  always  ad- 
mitted.) At  the  point  we  are  about  1  M.  from  the  Needles  Hotel 
(see  beiow),  which  lies  a  little  inland  from  the  bay. 

In  fine  weather  it  is,  perhaps,  preferable  to  make  the  excursion  from 
Freshwater  Bay  to  Alum  Bay  by  boat,  as  this  affords  a  better  view  of  the 
Needles  and  the  fine  cliffs  (boat  with  boatmen  10-i5».  or  more).  The 
perpendicular  Freshwater  Cliffs,  400-500  ft.  high,  consist  of  chalk  with 
clearly  defined  layers  or  ribbons  of  flint.  The  finest  are  those  of  'Main 
Bench,  where  numerous  sea-fowl  breed  in  spring.  Before  reaching  the 
Needles  we  pass  the  entrance  of  *Scratchell's  Bay,  a  small  but  imposing 
recess,  where  the  action  of  the  water  on  the  lower  strata  of  the  chalk 
cliffs  has  formed  a  magnificent  natural  arch,  200  ft.  in  height. 

*Alum  Bay  (*Royal  Needles  Hotel,  R.&  A.  As.,  luncheon  2^.  6(i.), 
so  named  because  alum  is  found  here,  is  remarkable  for  the  curious 
and  pleasing  effect  produced  by  the  vertical  stripes  of  red,  yellow, 
green,  and  grey  sandstone,  contrasting  with  the  white  chalk  of  the 
rest  of  the  cliffs.  The  *Needle8  are  three  white,  pointed  rocks  of 
chalk,  resting  on  dark-coloured  bases,  and  rising  abruptly  from  the 
sea  to  a  height  of  100  ft.  On  the  outermost  is  a  lighthouse.  A 
new  pier  has  been  built  in  the  bay,  and  numerous  excursion 
steamers  call  here  in  summer. 

Totland  Bay  (Totland  Bay  Hotel),  about  li/.j  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Alum  Bay,  is  another  charming  little  watering-place,  with  a  pier 
and  good  boating  and  bathing.    Steamers  ply  to  Lymington,  etc. 


From  Newport  to  Cowes,  4M,,  railway  in  16-20 min.  (fares  Is., 
9d.,  Ad.).  —  The  road  (4^0  M.)  passes  the  Union  Workhouse  (right) 
and  (left)  Albany  Barracks  and  Farkhurst  Prison.  Those  who  prefer 
it  may  descend  the  Medina  in  a  rowing-boat. 


74     Route  10.  COWES. 

West  Cowes.  —  ^Marine;  *Glostee;  Fountain;  Vine  5  Pier;  Globe. 
—  Steamboats  to  Southampton  and  to  Ryde  and  Portsmontli  several  times 
daily. 

West  Cowes ,  a  busy  little  town ,  prettily  situated,  containing 
7768  inhab.,  and  possessing  the  best  harbour  in  the  island,  has 
yacht-building  yards,  and  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Royal  Yacht 
Squadron,  the  300  members  of  which  are  the  owners  of  craft  vary- 
ing in  size  from  40  to  500  tons,  and  employ  2000  of  the  best  English 
sailors  as  crews.  Since  1856  this  club  has  been  located  in  the  old 
Castle,  once  used  as  a  state-prison.  Regattas  take  place  frequently 
in  summer  and  autumn,  the  chief  one  in  August.  There  is  a  good 
bathing-beach  to  the  W.  of  the  pier. 

Opposite  West  Cowes,  on  the  other  side  of  the  estuary  of  the 
Medina,  which  is  about  1/2  M.  broad,  lies  the  quiet  and  pleasant 
little  town  of  East  Cowes  (Medina  Hotel ;  Prince  of  Wales)  ;  steam- 
ferry  (V2^-)  every  few  minutes.  In  the  environs  are  the  fine 
country-seats  of  East  Cowes  Castle  and  Norris  Castle  (Duke  of  Bed- 
ford). The  grounds  of  the  latter  are  bounded  by  those  of  the  royal 
marine  residence  of  Osborne,  which  is  beautifully  situated  and  fitted 
up  with  great  magnificence  (not  shown  to  visitors). 

Travellers  intending  to  return  to  London  may  now  take  the  steam- 
boat from  Cowes  to  Portsmouth  (40  min.  5  fares  2s.  id.  and  Is.  Id.),  which 
calls  at  Ryde  on  its  way.  The  passage  along  the  coast  from  Cowes  to 
Pi.yde  is  picturesque;  the  shores  are  luxuriantly  wooded,  and  good  views 
are  obtained  of  Xorris  Castle  and  Osborne.  —  Travellers  bound  for  Southamp- 
ton may  either  go  direct  by  steamer  (1  hr.  *,  fares  2s.  Id.  and  Is.  Id.)  or 
to  Portsmouth  by  steamer,  and  thence  by  railway.  In  the  former  case 
they  enjoy  a  pleasant  sail  up  Southampton  Water,  the  mouth  of  which  is 
protected  by  Calthot  Castle,  one  of  the  forts  built  by  Henry  VIII.  About 
21/2  M.  farther  up,  to  the  left,  lies  ffythe  (Drummond  Arms),  and  on  the 
opposite  shore  is  seen  Netley  Hospitul  (p.  82;  abbey  not  visible).  In  mid- 
stream lies  the  guard-ship  'Invincible'. 

11.  From  London  to  Winchester  and  Southampton. 

Neiv  Forest. 

South  Western  Railway  from  Waterloo  to  (66'/2  M.)  Winchester  in  IV4- 
21/2  hrs.  (fares  lis.,  55.,  55.  6c?.;  return-ticket,  19s.  3c/.,  12s.  2(7,  10s.  6(f.); 
to  (79  M.)  Southampton  in  2>/4-3»A  hrs.  (fares  I3s..  8s.  2d.,  6s.  6d. ;  return, 
23s.,  14s.  Qd.,  lis.  Qd.).     Return-tickets  are  valid  for  a  month. 

From  London  to  (24'/2  M.)  Woking,  see  R.  9.  Beyond  Woking 
the  train  passes  Woking  Convict  Prison,  for  invalid  prisoners,  and 
the  Brookwood  Lunatic  Asylum  (both  to  the  right),  and  reaches 
(271/2  M.)  Brookwood.  To  the  left  lies  Woking  Necropolis,  an  im- 
mense cemetery,  2000  acres  in  extent ,  to  which  a  special  funeral 
train  runs  daily  from  London  (private  station  in  Westminster  Bridge 
Road).  In  one  corner  is  a  crematorium.  —  About  1/2  M.  to  the  N. 
of  Brookwood  station  is  Bisley  Common,  the  meeting-place  of  the 
National  Rifle  Association  since  1889. 

About  IV2  M.  beyond  Brookwood,  on  the  left  (S.),  diverges  the  loop- 
line  to  aV2  M.)  AldershoU,  (IOI/2  M.)  Farnham,  (19  M.)  Alton,  and  (35  M.) 
Wi7ichester. 


ALDERSHOT.  //.  Route.    75 

Aldershotf  ffoya^-  Imperial),  now  a  busy  town  with  25,600  inhab.  (includ- 
ing the  soldiers),  has  grown  to  its  present  size  through  the  establishment 
here  in  1854  of  a  lar^e  Military  Camp,  9  sq.  M.  in  extent,  and  capable  ot 
accommodating  20,000  men.  The  military  manoeuvres  which  take  place 
here  from  time  to  time  are  on  an  extensive  scale  and  well  worth  seeing. 
The  most  commanding  point  of  view  is  the  eminence  called  Caesar  s  Camp, 
on  which  stands  the  equestrian  statue  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  formerly 
on  the  top  of  the  Green  Park  Arch  in  London. 

Farnham  (Bush,  well  spoken  of;  Lion  d-  Lamb)  is  a  pleasant  little 
town  with  5545  inhab.,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  hop-district  second  in 
importance  to  Kent  alone.  The  Castle,  now  the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of 
Winchester,  was  originally  built  in  the  12th  cent.,  but  dates  in  its  present 
form  mainly  from  1662-84;  the  Keep  is  probably  of  the  13th  century, 
William  Cohhett  (d.  1835)  was  born  at  Farnham  in  the  'Jolly  Farmers', 
Bridge  Sq.  —  About  l'/2  31.  to  the  E.  of  Farnham  is  Moor  Park,  where 
Swift  acted  as  secretary  to  Sir  William  Temple  (d.  1699)  and  made  the 
acquaintance  of  'Stella'.     Waverley  Ahhey,  see  p.  65. 

From  Alton  (Swan)  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  Selborne  (p.  65),  which  lies 
5  M.  to  the  S.E.  —  Near  (33V2  M.)  Alres/ord  is  Tichborne  Bouse,  a  name 
well  known  from  the  notorious  law-suit,  which  is  said  to  have  saddled 
the  estate  with  a  debt  of  90,000^.  —  35  M.   Winchester,  see  below. 

The  train  now  passes  between  the  Chobham  Ridges  on  the  right 
and  the  Fox  Hills  on  the  left,  and  crosses  the  Guildford  and  Read- 
ing railway  (p.  64).  —  33  M.  Farnborough  (Queen's,  at  the  North 
Camp"),  one  of  the  stations  for  Aldershot  (Damp,  which  begins  a 
little  to  the  S.  of  it.  To  the  right  lies  Farnborough  Hill,  the 
present  home  of  the  Empress  Eugenie,  who  has  built  a  chapel  (^to 
the  left  of  the  railway)  for  the  remains  of  her  husband  and  son. 
About  250  acres  of  ground  in  the  environs  of  Farnborough  are 
occupied  by  strawberries,  cultivated  for  the  London  market.  —  Near 
(361/.2  M.)  Fleet  the  line  skirts  a  small  lake;  on  the  right  (2/4  M.) 
is  Elvetham  House,  where  Queen  Elizabeth  was  entertained  in  1591 
by  the  Earl  of  Hertford.  —  39  M.  Winchfield,  with  a  fine  church 
partly  Norman,  partly  Gothic.  About  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  (omn.)  is 
Odiham  (George),  with  an  old  castle  where  King  David  of  Scotland 
was  imprisoned  after  his  capture  at  Neville's  Cross  fp.  421).  To  the 
N.  lies  Eversley^  the  home  of  Charles  Kingsley  (_d.  1875)  for  33  years. 

The  line  now  passes  through  (_41  M.l  Hook  and  the  village  of 
Old  Basing,  where  a  battle  took  place  between  the  Saxons  and 
Danes  in  871.  It  contains  the  scanty  ruins  of  Basing  House,  built 
by  the  first  Marquis  of  Winchester  in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI., 
which  resisted  the  Parliamentary  troops  for  four  years  and  was  finally 
stormed  by  Cromwell  himself  (1645). 

48  m.  Basingstoke  (Red  Lion;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  with 
7960  inhab..  Is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Salisbury  (R.  14)  and  Read- 
ing (p.  106 ).  Close  to  the  station,  on  the  right,  is  the  ruined  Chapel 
of  the  Holy  Ghost  (16th  cent.),  in  an  ancient  cemetery.  The  Parish 
Church  is  a  Perp.  building,  restored. 

From  Basingstoke   to  Heading    (Silchester;    Strathfieldsaye),    see  p.  106. 

The   route  to  Winchester  now  traverses  the  chalk  downs. 

661/2  M.  Winchester.  —  Hotels.  George,  corner  of  High  St.  and 
Jewry  St.,  well  spoken  of,  R.  k  A.  55.,  D.  5s.,  board  i'2s.  per  day;  'Rotal, 


76    Route  11.  WINCHESTER.  Cathedral. 

St.  Peter  St.,  with  a  garden,  quiet;  Black  Swan,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.',  Eagle, 
near  the  S.W.  station,  unpretending. 

Restaurants.    Easton,  55  High  St.;  Oeorge  Hotel  Grill-Room,  Jewry  St. 

Cabs.  From  either  of  the  stations  to  most  of  the  hotels  Is. ;  from 
station  to  station  Is.  Gd.-.  per  hr.  3s.,  each  addit.  1/2  lir.  Is.  3d.  Each 
article  of  luggage  carried  outside  2d. 

Railway  Stations.  South  Western  Station.,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
town-,  Great  Western  Station  (for  Oxford  and  the  North,  London  via  Did- 
cot,  etc.),  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  river. 

Fishing  in  the  Itchen  ;  apply  to  Mr.  Chalklep ,  fishing-tackle  maker 
near  the  Cathedral. 

Winchester,  a  city  of  great  antiquity  and  the  seat  of  a  bishop, 
with  19,000  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  lichen. 

Before  the  Roman  invasions  Winchester  was  known  under  the  name 
of  Caer  Gwent  (white  castle),  which  was  Latinised  as  Venta  Belgarum,  the 
Belgae  being  the  British  tribe  which  had  its  settlement  here.  In  495  the 
Saxons  took  possession  of  the  town,  and  named  it  Winteceasier  (ceaster  =  . 
castrum).  Winchester  was  the  capital  of  the  Saxon  kingdom  of  Wessex, 
was  converted  to  Christianity  by  Birinus,  the  Apostle  of  the  West  of 
England,  in  635,  and  was  afterwards  the  seat  of  government  of  Alfred  the 
Great,  Canute  the  Dane,  and  William  the  Conqueror.  After  the  Norman 
Conquest  Winchester  for  a  time  rivalled  London  in  commercial  impor- 
tance, but  soon  lost  its  pre-eminence,  especially  after  its  visitation  by  a 
serious  fire  in  1141.  Down  to  the  Reformation,  however,  it  maintained  a 
position  of  great  ecclesiastical  dignity.  Now-a-days  the  city  has  that  quiet 
and  venerable  appearance  which  we  are  wont  to  associate  with  the  seat 
of  a  cathedral;  and  the  woollen  manufacture  for  which  it  was  once 
famous  has  entirely  died  out.  See  Bean  £itchin''s  'Winchester'  ('Historic 
Towns'  series;  1890). 

To  reach  the  Cathedral  we  descend  the  High  Street  to  the 
curious  old  arcade,  and  turn  to  the  right  by  a  narrow  passage  close 
to  the  City  Cross  ^  a  monument  of  the  15th  cent,  (restored). 

The  *Cathedral  (daily  service  at  10  and  3,  with  fair  music), 
a  stately  edifice ,  incorporating  every  style  of  English  architecture 
from  the  Norman  to  the  Perpendicular,  was  founded  by  Bp.  Walk- 
elin  in  1079,  close  to  the  site  of  a  Saxon  church  of  the  10th  cent, 
which  had  replaced  one  of  the  7th.  The  choir  and  transepts  wore 
finished  in  1093,  the  conversion  of  the  nave  from  Norman  to 
Perpendicular  was  begun  by  Bishop  Edington  before  1366,  and  the 
whole  was  completed  in  1486.  The  builder  (or  transformer)  of  by 
far  the  greater  part  of  the  nave  was  Bishop  William  of  Wykeham, 
the  renowned  architect,  ecclesiastic,  and  statesman,  who  occupied 
the  see  from  1366  to  1404.  The  church  is  the  longest  in  England, 
measuring  560  ft.  in  all ;  the  breadth  across  the  transepts  is  208  ft. 
The  arms  of  the  transept  are  flanked  with  aisles,  and  still  retain 
the  form  of  a  pillared  basilica  with  arcades.  The  first  employment 
of  Pointed  architecture  is  seen  in  the  addition  to  the  choir  on  the  E. 
The  *W.  Fa^adeyf&s  begun  in  1350  by  Bishop  Edington,  finished  in 
the  15th  cent.,  and  restored  in  1860;  the  statue  of  William  of  Wyke- 
ham  is  modern.  The  general  effect  of  the  exterior  is  somewhat 
heavy  and  unimposing,  and  the  stunted  proportions  of  the  only 
tower  detract  considerably  from  its  dignity.  The  Dec.  and  Perp. 
work  at  the  E.  end  is,  however,  very  fine.  The  Cathedral  is  dedicated 


;lB.|i^iiiTomb 


—     r^ 


CLOSE 

or      Site    of 

CLOISTER  S 

UNlCHrSTER  CMHiEDRAL 


Cathedral.  WINCHESTER.  11.  Route.     "7 

to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  and  the  Holy  Trinity;  the  choir  is  also  popul- 
arly supposed  to  1)6  dedicated  to  St.  Swithin  (day,  July  15th),  whose 
traditionary  connection  with  the  weather  is  ascribed  to  the  un- 
historic  legend  that  the  removal  of  his  body  to  the  shrine  prepared 
for  it  was  delayed  for  40  days  by  rain. 

The  Interior  of  the  church  is  very  impressive  owing  to  the  beauty  of 
its  proportions,  the  great  length  of  the  Nave,  and  the  fine  groining.  Visitors 
should  notice  the  remaining  traces  of  Wiilkelin's  Norman  nave,  such  as 
the  masonry  of  the  pier?.  The  fact  that  the  core  of  the  piers  is  also 
Norman  perhaps  accounts  for  their  unusual  massiveness.  One  of  the  most 
characteristic  features  of  Winchester  is  its  fine  -Chantry  Cfiapels,  most 
of  which  were  founded  by  Bishops  of  Winchester  between  1350  and  1486. 
The  most  interesting  of  all  is  that  of  Bishop  William  of  Wykeham,  designed 
by  himself  (1366-1404),  in  the  fifth  bay  on  the  S.  side  of  the  nave;  and 
the  nave  also  contains  that  of  Bishop  Edington  (p.  76).  On  the  wall  of 
the  N.  aisle,  nearly  opposite  the  chantry  of  William  of  Wykeham,  is  a 
brass  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Jam  Austen  (1775-1817) ,  who  is  buried 
beneath  the  pavement  in  front  of  it.  Above  it  is  a  curious  old  epitaph. 
In  the  next  bay  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  ancient  sculptured  Font,  in  black 
marble,  dating  from  the  12th  century.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  K.  aisle  is 
a  Cantoria,  or  singing  gallery.  Much  of  the  old  stained  glass  was  destroyed 
by  the  Puritans,  but  that  in  the  ^W.   Window  dates  in  part  from  1350. 

The  Transepts  are  the  oldest  part  of  the  church  as  it  now  stands,  and 
show  the  Norman  work  of  Bishop  Walkelin  almost  untouched  (1079-93). 
The  later  Norman  work,  necessitated  by  the  fall  of  the  tower  early  in  the 
12th  cent.,  is  easily  recognized  by  its  finer  jointing.  The  S.  arm  con- 
tains memorials  of  Bishop  Wilber/orce  (d.  1813)  and  of  Izaak  Walton  (d.  1683; 
in  the  Silkstede  Chapel),  whose  memory  is  indissolubly  associated  with 
the  Itchen  and  other  streams  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  mural  paint- 
ings in  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  in  the  N.  transept,  are  curious, 
though  much  damaged  by  past  neglect  (13th  cent.). 

The  Choik  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  oaken  screen,  designed 
by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  On  passing  it  we  are  struck  with  the  immense 
thickness  of  the  piers  supporting  the  tower,  which  owe  their  unusual 
solidity  to  a  desire  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  the  fate  of  the  first  tower, 
which  fell  soon  after  its  erection.  Under  the  tower  is  the  tomb  of  an 
ecclesiastic,  which  used  to  be  said  to  hold  the  bones  uf  William  Rufus 
(d.  1100).  The  oaken  'Stalls  of  1296,  darkened  with  age,  are  richly  carved. 
The  pulpit  was  presented  by  Prior  Silkstede  in  1498,  but  the  bishops 
throne  is  modern.  The  painted  glass  of  the  ^E.  Window  dates  from 
about  1620.  Prolonging  the  choir  towards  the  E.  is  the  Presl'ptery,  con- 
taining a  fine  reredos  of  the  15th  cent,  (restored)  and  an  altar-piece  (Rais- 
ing of  Lazarus)  by  West.  The  marriage  of  Queen  Mary  with  Philip  of  Spain 
was  celebrated  here  in  1554,  and  the  chair  preserved  in  Kishop  Langton's 
chapel  (see  p.  78)  is  supposed  by  some  to  be  that  in  which  she  sat  during 
that  ceremony.  The  presbytery  is  enclosed  at  the  sides  by  handsome  stone 
screens  (1500-1525),  upon  which  lie  six  richly  coloured  wooden  mortuary 
chests,  containing  the  bones  of  Ethelwolf,  Egbert,  Canute,  William 
Rufus,  and  other  kings,  preserved  from  the  old  cathedral.  The  identity 
of  most  of  the  skeletons,  however,  has  long  been  lost. 

Behind  the  reredos  is  the  feretory,  a  raised  platform  for  the  shrines  of 
the  patron  saints  of  the  cathedral.  The  E.  end  of  the  feretory  is  adorned 
with  fine  tabernacle-work,  and  in  the  middle  is  the  entrance  to  a  vault 
called  the  Holy  Hole,  probably  a  receptacle  for  relics.  To  the  right  and 
left  (N.  and  S.)  of  the  feretory  are  the  chantries  of  Bishops  Gardiner  (1555) 
and  Fox  (1528),  and  farther  to  the  E.  those  of  Bishop  Waynflete  (1447-86) 
and  Cardinal  Beavfort  (d.  1447).  Between  the  last  two  is  the  site  of  the 
once  famous  Shrine  of  St.  Swifhin  (see  above). 

The  part  of  the  Cathedral  to  the  E.  of  the  feretorv,  including  the  aisles, 
is  mostly  in  the  E.E.  style,  and  the  work  of  Bishop  Lucy  (1189-1204).  To 
the  E.  it  terminates  in   the  Lady  Chapel,  flanked   by   two   smaller   ones. 


78     Route  11.  WINCHESTER.         Winchester  School. 

The  Lady  Chapel,  one  bay  of  which  is  E.E  and  the  other  Perp.  (15th  cent.), 
is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  of  about  1500,  representing  the  Miracles 
of  the  Virgin,  The  statue  of  Bishop  North  (d.  1820)  in  the  Lady  Chapel 
is  by  Chantrey.  The  chapel  to  the  S.  was  fitted  up  as  a  chantry  by  Bishop 
Langton  (d.  1501) ,  who  is  buried  here ,  and  that  to  the  N.,  the  Chapel 
of  the  Guardian  Angels  (12th  cent.),  contains  the  monuments  of  two  bishops 
and  of  Westnn,  Earl  of  Portland  (d.  1634),  Lord  High  Treasurer  of  Charles  I. 
In  the  N.  transept  is  the  entrance  to  the  Crypt,  the  W.  part  of  which, 
recently  cleared  out,  shows  Walkelin's  original  plan  and  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  early -Norman  substructure.  The  E.  part  is  the  work  of  Bishop 
Lucy  (p.  77)  and  the  easternmost  bay  was  added  by  Priors  Silkstede  and 
Hunton. 

The  Slype,  a  passage  constructed  in  1636  as  a  substitute  for  a 
public  right  of^vay  through  the  Cathedral,  leads  from  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  W.  fagade  (note  the  curious  inscriptions)  to  the  Close  to  the 
S.  of  the  church.  This,  with  its  smooth  turf  and  abundant  foliage, 
forms  a  striking  contrast  to  the  grey  and  venerable  Cathedral.  The 
passage  between  the  Norman  arches  of  the  old  chapter-house  and 
the  S.  Transept  leads  to  the  Library^  which  contains  a  fine  copy  of 
the  Vulgate  and  some  relics  taken  from  the  coffin  of  William  Rufus, 
The  entrance  to  the  Deanery,  which  contains  the  old  Prior"s  Hall, 
is  distinguished  by  its  three  pointed  arches  of  the  13th  century. 

We  quit  the  Close  by  a  gate  in  the  S.  E.  corner,  pass  through 
King's  Gate  above  which  is  St.  Swithins  Church,  and  turn  to  the 
left  into  College  Street,  which  soon  brings  us  to  the  College,  the 
second  lion  of  Winchester.  (Apply  at  the  porter's  lodge  at  the  sec- 
ond gateway  to  the  right ;  fee.)  *Wiiicliester  School,  or  the  College 
of  St.  Mary  Winton,  which  is  connected  with  New  College,  Oxford, 
was  also  built  by  William  of  Wykeham  in  1373-96,  and,  though 
extensive  new  buildings  have  become  necessary  ,  the  older  parts 
remain  nearly  unaltered.  It  has  ranked  for  centuries  among  the  lead- 
ing public  schools  of  England,  and  is  attended  by  400  boys. 

The  parts  shown  to  visitors  include  two  quadrangles,  surrounded  by 
the  picturesque  old  School  Buildings;  the  entrance  to  the  Kitchen,  with  a 
singular  picture  of  a  'Trusty  Servant';  the  Chapel,  containing  a  carved 
oak  pulpit  from  New  College,  Oxford;  the  Cloisters,  with  the  names  of 
Bishop  Ken  (1646)  and  other  eminent  Wykhamists  cut  in  the  stone;  the 
Dining  Hall;  and  the  old  lavatory,  know'n  by  the  boys  as  '■MoaV,  while 
they  call  the  shoe-blacking  place  '^Edom"  (Ps.  Ix.  8).  —  The  new  buildings, 
also  in  the  form  of  a  quadrangle,  lie  to  the  W.  of  the  old.  —  At  the  back 
are  the  *Cricket  Fields,  prettily  situated  on  the  river,  and  affording  a 
good  view  of  the  College  and  of  St.  Catharine's  Hill  or  'Hills'. 

Farther  along  College  Street,  on  the  left  side  and  beyond  the 
river,  are  the  ruins  of  Wolvesey  Palace,  a  Norman  structure  built 
by  Bishop  Henri  de  Blois  in  1138.  There  are  interesting^  remains 
of  the  Saxon  keep.   Queen  Mary  resided  here  in  1554  (p.  77). 

From  Wolvesey  Palace  the  visitor  may  skirt  the  river  to  Soke 
Bridge ,  at  the  foot  of  High  St.  If  time  allow,  he  should  cross  the 
bridge  and  ascend  to  ('^hr.)  the  top  of  St.  Giles's  Hill,  which  affords 
an  admirable  *Yiew  of  the  city.  —  St.  John's  Church,  in  St.  John 
St.,  at  the  foot  of  St.  Giles's  Hill,  has  aisles  considerably  wider 
than  the  nave.     The  style  is  partly  Norman,  and  partly  E.E. 


Hosp.ofSt.Cross.       WINCHESTER.  11.  Route.     79 

At  the  foot  of  High  St.  are  the  Abbey  Grounds^  a  public  garden 
opened  in  1891,  on  the  site  of  St.  Mary's  Abbey,  founded  by  Eals- 
with,  queen  of  Alfred  the  Great.  Adjoining  is  the  Guildhall,  a 
modern  building  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  containing  a  small  museum 
(open  daily  10-1  and  2-4  or  6).  —  At  the  top  of  the  High  St. 
is  the  West  Gate,  a  fortified  gateway  of  the  13th  century.  — 
Adjacent  (left)  is  the  County  Court,  with  a  fine  hall ,  belonging 
to  a  castle  erected  here  by  William  the  Conqueror  ,  but  afterwards 
altered  and  heightened  by  Henry  III.  On  the  wall  hangs  a  curious 
relic  known  as 'King  Arthur's  Round  Table',  said  to  date  from  the  6th 
cent,  but  repainted  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  —  King  Alfred  was 
buried  in  Hyde  Abbey,  Jewry  St.,  part  of  which  is  now  a  barn. 

About  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town  lies  the  'Hospital  of  St,  Cross  (adm. 
by  ticket  at  the  lodge,  Qd,,  3  pers.  1<;.),  which  may  be  reached  either  through 
Southgate  Street,  or  by  a  path  along  the  bank  of  the  Itchen.  This  peculiar 
institution  vvaa  founded  in  1136  by  Bishop  Henri  de  Blois  for  the  mainten- 
ance of  13  poor  men,  unable  to  work,  and  for  the  partial  support  of 
100  others.  A  remnant  of  the  ancient  hospitality  is  still  maintained,  any 
one  who  applies  at  the  porter's  lodge  being  entitled  to  the  refreshment 
of  a  horn  of  ale  and  a  slice  of  bread,  unless  the  daily  quantum  has  al- 
ready been  distributed.  The  "Church,  completed  before  the  year  1200, 
and  lately  restored,  is  a  beautiful  example  of  the  transition  from  the 
Norman  to  the  E.E.  style  of  architecture.  Among  the  most  interesting 
features  are  the  exquisitely  delicate  late-Norman  mouldings,  a  curious 
triple  arch  at  the  S.  transept  (external),  and  the  modern  polychrome 
painting  (by  Butteriield)  in  the  supposed  original  style.  The  quadrangle 
and  its  surroundings  also  form  a  most  delightful  picture.  Visitors  are 
conducted  to  the  Refectory,  with  its  fine  open  roof,  and  to  the  Kitchen. 
The  former  contains  an  ancient  triptych,  attributed  to  Mabuse. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Itchen,  not  far  from  the  hospital,  is  *St. 
Catherine's  Hill ,  crowned  by  a  group  of  trees  and  a  labyrinth  cut  in  the 
turf,  and  affording  an  admirable  view  of  the  ancient  town. 

From  St.  Cross  we  may  continue  our  walk  along  the  Itchen  to  (3  M.) 
the  pretty  villajie  of  Tioyford  (see  below).  —  Admirers  of  the  'Christian 
Year'  may  combine  in  one  excursion  from  Winchester  a  visit  to  (5  M.) 
HursleiJ  and  (4V'i  M.)  Otterbourne,  livings  held  by  the  Rev.  John  Keble 
(d.  1866),  who  is  buried  in  the  churchyard  of  the  former.  The  church 
was  rebuilt  by  him  with  the  profits  of  the  'Christian  Year'.  Hursley 
Bouse  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  of  Richard  Cromwell,  many  of  whose 
family  are  buried  in  the  church. 


Beyond  Winchester  the  Railway  continues  to  descend  the 
valley  of  the  Itchen.  —  In  the  village  of  Twyford,  near  (70  M.) 
Shawford^  Franklin  wrote  part  of  his  autobiography.  —  73  M. 
Eastleigh  and  Bishopstoke  (Junction  Hotel),  the  junction  of  lines 
to  Portsmouth  on  the  left  and  Salisbury  on  the  right.  Bishopstoke, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  Itchen,  is  a  thriving  town  with  the  South 
Western  Railway  Carriage  Works. 

From  Bishopstokk  to  Stokes  Bat  (Ooxport),  14  M.,  railway  in  '/z-V*  br. 
(fares  3s.  6(f.,  2s.  '2d.,  is.  Cid.).  This  is  part  of  the  through-route  to  Ryde 
via  Stokes  Bay  (comp.  p.  66).  —  Beyond  (6  M.)  Botley  the  line  crosses  "the 
small  river  Humble.  About  6  M.  to  the  E.  lies  Bishop  s  Wallham  (branch 
line),  with  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Bishops  of  Winchester.  —  The  train 
passes  through  a  tunnel  200  yds.  in  length  and  shortly  afterwards  another 
600  yds.  long.  —  11  M.  Fareham  (p.  58),  on  the  line  from  Portsmouth  to 
Southampton.  —  12'/2  M.  Brockhurst,  beyond  which  a  short  branch  diverges 


80     Route  11.  SOUTHAMPTON.  Steamers. 

to  (3/4  M.)  Gosport^  see  p.  58.    13  M.  Gosport  Road.  —  At  (14  M.)    Slokes  Bay 
the  trains  run  alongside  the  steamers  for  Ryde  ('/4hr.''s  passage). 

76  M.  Swathling ;  77  M.  St.  Denys ;  78  M.  Northam. 

79  M.  Southampton.  —  Hotels.  Radlet's,  opposite  the  station, 
R.  &  A.  from  4s. ,  D.  from  3s.  6d. ;  South  Western  Railway  Hotel,  a 
large  house  at  the  terminus ;  Matcham's  Dolphin,  Rotal,  Stak,  Crown, 
all  in  High  St. ;  Pier,  on  the  Quay.  —  *Flower''s  Temperance,  Queen's 
Terrace;  Goodridge's,  Railway,  near  the  station. 

Restaurants.    Stiiste.,  High  St.  ;  Bail.  Refreshment  Rooms. 

Cabs.  Per  mile  is.,  for  each  addit.  '/i  M.  3tf. ;  per  V2  ir.  Is.  Qd.,  3/4  hr. 
2s,,  1  hr.  2s.  Qd.,  each  addit.  1/4  l^r.  Qd.  With  2  horses  Is.  6(7.,  id.,  2s., 
2s.  6c?.,  3s.,  Sd.  —  Luggage,  conveyed  by  barrow-porter  from  the  hotels 
or  station  to  the  docks:  1/2  cwt.  (56  lbs.)  Qd.,  1  cwt.  Is.,  2  cwt.  Is.  6rf.,  3  cwt. 
3s.  ;  small  parcel  3d!.,  two  or  more  parcels,  Qd.  each.  Luggage  taken  from 
the  station  to  the  hotels  by  hotel-porter,  gratis. 

Boat  to  Netley  Abbey  with  one  man  3s.,  with  two  men  4s.:  there  and 
back,  including  stay  of  2  hrs.,  7s.  By  time :  first  hr.  2s.,  each  addit.  hr. 
Is.  —  Small  boats  at  the  West  Quay,  without  rower,  Qd.  per  hr. 

Tramway  from  the  Terminus  through  High  St.  and  Above  Bar  to  the 
Park,  and  thence  on  the  left  to  Shirley  and  on  the  right  to  Portswood 
(2d.  or  3d.).  —  Omnibuses  from  the  Bar  Gate  to  Bitierne,  Totton,  etc.  — 
Floating  Bridge  across  the  Itchen  to  Itchen. 

Steamers  to  the  Channel  Islands,  see  R.  12;  to  the  Isle  of  Wight,  see 
R.  10.  To  HytJie,  Portsmouth,  and  Southsea,  several  times  daily.  To  Havre 
(London  to  Paris  service),  .daily  at  midnight:  to  St.  Malo,  every  Mon., 
Wed.,  and  Frid. ;  to  Cherbourg,  every  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  at  10.30  p.m. 
To  Plymouth,  Liverpool,  and  Glasgow,  once  a  week  •,  to  London,  twice  a  week. 
Southampton  is  the  starting-point  of  the  mail-packets  to  S.  America,  the 
West  Indies,  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  —  Since  March,  1893,  Southampton 
has  been  the  starting-point  for  the  passenger  steamers  of  the  American 
Line  to  New  York  (every  Sat.  at  noon;  see  p.  1).  The  steamers  of  the  North 
German  Lloyd  (Sun.,  Tues.,  <fe  Wed.)  and  thoae  of  the  Hamburg-American  Line 
(Thurs.  <fe  Frid.)  also  call  here  on  their  way  to  and  from  New  York.  A  Dutch 
mail-steamer  for  Batavia,  etc.,  calls  at  Southampton  every  Tuesday. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Oxford  St.,  close  to  the  Railway  Terminus. 

TJ.  S.  Consul,   Warner  S.  Kinkead,  Esq.    Vice-Consul,  H.  A.  House,  Esq. 

Theatre.  Prince  of  Wales,  Ogle  Road,  Above  Bar.  —  Philharmonic  Hall 
(concerts,  etc.).  Above  Bar  St. 

Swimming  Baths  on  the  W.  shore,  at  the  foot  of  Manchester  St. 

Railway  Stations.  Terminus  or  Docks  Station ,  near  the  Docks  and 
about  1.4  M.  from  the  High  St.;  Southampton  West,  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
town,  for  main-line  trains  to  Bournemouth.  Weymouth ,  and  the  West. 
There  are  suburban  stations  at  Northam  and  St.  Denys  (see  above). 

Southampton,  the  second  town  of  Hampshire,  with  65,325  inhab., 
is  beautifully  situated  on  Southampton  Water,  between  the  river 
Itchen  on  the  E.,  and  the  Test  or  Anton  on  the  W. 

The  town  was  already  in  existence  at  the  time  of  the  Saxons,  and  it 
is  said  that  here  Canute  the  Dane  gave  the  famous  rebuke  to  his  flattering 
courtiers.  After  the  Conquest  the  town  carried  on  a  considerable  traffic 
with  Venice,  Bordeaux,  and  Bayonne.  In  1189  Southampton  was  the  place 
of  embarkation  of  the  Crusaders  under  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion ;  and  later, 
in  1345  and  1415  respectively,  it  saw  the  armies  of  Edward  III.  and 
Henry  V.  take  ship  for  the  invasion  of  France.  Philip  of  Spain,  consort 
of  Queen  Mary,  landed  here  in  1554,  and  Charles  I.  resided  here  for  a 
considerable  time.  —  The  main  body  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  who  had 
been  living  in  Holland,  left  Delfthave'n,  in  July,  1620,  in  the  'Speedwell', 
which  brought  them  to  Southampton.  Here  they  found  the  '3Iayflower% 
a  ship  hired  for  their  voyage,  and  a  small  body  of  co-religionists  from 
London.  The  two  ships  proceeded  to  Plymouth ,  where  the  'Speedwell' 
was  pronounced  unseaworthy,  and  the  whole  of  the  voyagers  were  crowded 


Docks.  SOUTHAMPTON.  11.  Route.  S\ 

into  the  'Mayflower'.  Comp.  p.  139.  —  Isaac  Watts  (1674-1748;  p.  82),  Charles 
Dibdin  (1745-1814),  and  Sir  John  E.  Jlillais  (1829-96)  were  born  at  South- 
ampton.    E.  A.  Sothern,  the  comedian  (1826-81),  is  burled  in  the  cemetery. 

Southampton  owes  its  importance  to  its  admirably-sheltered 
harbour,  and  to  the  phenomenon  of  double  tides,  which  prolong 
high  water  for  two  hours.  The  Docks,  including  five  large  dry 
docks  (one  being  the  largest  graving  dock  in  the  world),  two  tidal 
basins  (16  &  18  acres  in  area),  and  a  closed  dock,  often  contain 
several  steamers  of  very  large  size  (^2000-4000  tons  burden),  the 
fitting-up  and  arrangements  of  which  will  repay  a  thorough  in- 
spection. About  2000  vessels,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  two 
millions,  enter  the  port  yearly  (steamers,  see  p.  80). 

The  chief  relic  of  the  ancient  fortifications  of  the  town  is  the 
Bar  Gate  in  the  High  Street,  erected  in  the  11th  cent,  as  the  N. 
city  gate,  and  lately  restored,  but  still  exhibiting  the  original 
Norman  arch.  The  part  above  the  archway  is  used  as  the  Guildhall. 
Here  are  preserved  the  rude  paintings  of  Sir  Bevis  of  Southampton 
and  the  giant  Ascupart,  whom  he  overcame  in  single  combat,  for- 
merly on  the  buttresses  of  the  gate.  (*View  of  the  town  from  the 
roof.)  The  South  Gate  and  the  West  Gate  also  formed  part  of  the 
old  circumvallation.  The  former,  with  a  tower  once  used  as  a 
prison,  is  near  the  Town  Quay.  Farther  to  the  W.  is  the  *Koyal 
Pier  (toll  id.).  Among  the  guns  of  the  Saluting  Battery  on  the  ad- 
joining Platform,  or  Parade,  is  one  dating  from  1542.  Adjacent 
is  a  Statue  of  Prince  Albert.  Considerable  remains  of  the  old  walls 
and  towers  still  exist  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The  old  castle 
has,  however,  been  destroyed,  except  part  of  the  foundations.  In 
Queen's  Park  is  a  monument  to  Gen.  Gordon. 

The  picturesque  High  Street,  with  many  old  houses,  runs  to  the 
N.  from  the  Town  Quay.  The  Church  of  St.  Michael  (open  all  day), 
in  St.  Michael's  Square,  to  the  W.  of  the  High  Street,  has  some 
Norman  details  but  has  been  injured  by  later  restorations.  It  con- 
tains a  good  *rout  (12th  cent.)  resembling  that  in  Winchester 
Cathedral  (p.  77).  In  Winkle  Street,  near  the  quay,  is  the  small 
hospital  called  Domus  Dei,  or  God's  House,  erected  in  the  12th 
cent.,  and  little  altered  in  appearance  since  then;  the  *Chapel  is 
now  used  for  religious  services  by  the  French  residents  of  Southamp- 
ton. A  tablet  commemorates  the  fact  that  the  Earl  of  Cambridge, 
Lord  Scrope,  and  Sir  Thomas  Grey,  who  were  executed  for  a  con- 
spiracy against  the  life  of  Henry  V.  in  1415,  are  interred  here.  The 
Hartley  Institution,  with  a  library  (23,000  vols. ;  adm.  5-10  p.  m. ; 
for  members  also  10-5,  monthly  ticket  is.  6t/.)  and  museum  (11-4, 
free  ;  Tiies.  6d.),  in  the  High  Street,  has  an  imposing  facade  in  the 
Italian  style.  —  Near  the  West  Shore,  in  Blue  Anchor  Lane,  are  some 
remains  of  an  ancient  Norman  dwelling  known  as  King  John's  House. 

The  Ordnance  Survey  c^-  Map  Office,  a  Government  establish- 
ment of  great  interest  and  importance,  has  its  seat  at  Southampton, 

Baedekers  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit.  6 


82     Route  11.  SOUTHAMPTON.  New  Forest. 

in  a  large  building  on  the  W.  side  of  the  prolongation  of  the  High 
Street  towards  the  N.     About  400  men  are  employed  in  it. 

At  the  end  of  Above  Bar  St.  is  the  Park,  containing  statues  of 
Dr.  Watts  (1674-1748),  who  was  born  in  French  St.,  and  Lord  Pal- 
merston  (d.  1865).  Farther  on  are  Southampton  Common  and  Bevois 
Mount,  the  latter  (now  built  over)  taking  its  name  from  Sir  Bevis 
of  Southampton,  the  legendary  hero  of  the  town. 

The  Environs  afford  many  interesting  walks.  About  21/2  31.  to  the 
N.  lies  the  prettily-situated  Priory  of  St.  Denys,  of  wliich  the  remains  are 
now  very  scanty.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Itchen  (to  reach  which  we 
must  return  from  the  Priory  to  the  bridge)  stands  Bitterne  (p.  59).  — 
To  the  S.E.  lies  (3  M.)  -Netley  Abbey  (adm.  2d.,  Sun,  6d.),  a  Cistercian 
monastery  founded  by  Henry  III.  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  situated  in  a  spot 
of  singular  loveliness.  Interesting  and  picturesque  remains  of  the  E.E. 
church,  the  Fountain  Court  (or  cloister),  the  chapter  house,  and  monastic 
buildings.  [The  excursion  to  the  abbey  may  be  made  by  small  boat 
(p.  80)  the  whole  way  ;  by  railway  (to  within  1  M.)  in  18-27  min. ;  by 
floating  bridge  across  the  Itchen,  near  the  docks,  to  Woolston,  in  5  min., 
and  thence  by  railway,  in  8-10  min.,  or  on  foot;  or,  lastly,  by  carriage 
(fare  5-75.).]  A  mile  to  the  S.  lies  the  large  Netley  Military  Hospital. 
with  accommodation  for  upwards  of  1(XX)  patients.  —  In  a  creek  of  the 
Ha)nble,  which  joins  Southampton  Water  about  51/2  31.  to  the  S.E.  of 
Southampton,  is  the  training-ship  'Mercury',  in  which  boys  are  educated 
for  sea-life.  Connected  with  the  ship  is  a  house  on  shore  containing  an 
interesting  museum  (naval  models  ;  relics,  etc.). 

'Beaulieu  Abbey  (p.  83)  may  be  reached  directly  from  Southampton  by 
crossing  Southampton  Water  by  steamer  (6d.)  to  (20  min.)  Hythe  (Drum- 
mond  Arms),  and  walking  thence  to  (41/2  M.)  the  Abbey.  The  Abbey  lies 
on  the  borders  of  the  A'ew  Forest  (see  below),  and  may  also  be  easily 
visited  from  Brockenhurst  or  Lyndhurst  (p.  83). 

From  Southampton  to  Salisbury,  29  M. ,  railway  in  I-IV4  hr.  (fares 
4s.  lOd.,  3b.,  2«.  5d.).  -  This  line  diverges  at  (6  M.)  Bishopstoke  (p.  79) 
from  the  main  line  to  Winchester  and  London,  —  13  M.  Romsey  (White 
Horse;  Dolphin),  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Andover  (p.  98).  The  prettily 
situated  little  town,  with  a  Norman  *'Priory  Church,  lies  about  21/2  M. 
from  the  station.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  Broadlands,  the  country-seat 
of  Lord  Palmerston  (d.  1865).  —  29  M.  Salisbury,  see  p.  98. 

From  Southamton  to  Andover  Junction  (Swindon,  Cheltenham), 
28  M.,  railway  in  3/441/4  hr.  (fares  45.  Qd.,  Ss.,  '2s.  3V2d).  This  line  affords 
direct  access  to  the  N.  of  England,  and  is  traversed  (on  Sat.  only)  by  the 
'American  and  Capes  Lines  Express".  —  41/4  M.  Redbridge.  10  M.  Romsey 
(see  above).  From  (22V2  M.)  FulUrton  Junction,  a  line  diverges  to  Whitchurch. 
—  271/4  M.  Andover  Town.  2S  M.  Andover  Junction,  and  thence  to  Swindon 
and  Cheltenham.^  see  p.  108. 

From  Southampton  to  Portsmouth,  see  p.  58. 

To  the  S.W.  of  Southampton,  stretching  westwards  from  South- 
ampton Water ,  lies  the  so-called  *New  Forest ,  an  ancient  royal 
hunting  demesne,  containing  some  of  the  most  characteristic  wood- 
land scenery  in  England.  The  most  convenient  centre  from  which 
to  explore  it  is  Lyndhurst  (see  p.  83),  but  the  pedestrian  may  also 
fix  his  headquarters  at  Brockenhurst  (p.  95). 

The  extent  of  the  'Forest'  is  about  145  square  miles,  but  little  more 
than  two-thirds  of  this  now  belongs  to  the  crown.  Many  of  the  oaks  and 
other  trees  are  very  tine,  but  there  are  also  large  tracts  of  heath  and 
cultivated  land  ;  the  comparative  absence  of  water  will,  however,  strike 
most  visitors  as  a  drawback.  The  red  deer  with  which  the  Forest  was 
formerly  stocked  have  almost  entirely  disappeared,    but  it  contains  large 


Beaulieu  Abbey.  LYNDHURST.  11.  Route.     83 

numbers  of  hogs  and  amall,  rough-looking  horses.  The  naturalist  will 
also  find  much  to  interest  him  in  its  fauna  and  flora,  and  for  entomologists 
it  is  a  particularly  happy  hunting-ground. 

Lyndhurst  (*Crown,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  recently  rebuilt,  often  full 
in  summer;  Grand-  numerous  lodgings),  the  capital  of  the  New 
Forest,  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village ,  2'/2  M.  from  Lyndhurst 
Road  Station  (p.  95 ;  omn.  several  times  a  day,  Is.  inside,  Qd.  out- 
side). The  church,  rebuilt  in  1863,  contains  a  fine  fresco  of  the 
'Ten  Virgins'  by  Sir  Fred.  Leiyhton  (E.  wall)  and  a  piece  of  very 
realistic  sculpture  by  CockereU  (under  the  tower).  Near  the  church 
is  the  Queens  House,  the  residence  of  the  Deputy  Surveyor  of  the 
Forest:  in  the  Verderers'  Hall  (open  to  visitors)  is  an  old  stirrup, 
which  one  absurd  tradition  calls  that  of  William  Rufus  ,  while 
another  relates  that  dogs  small  enough  to  pass  through  it  were 
exempt  from  the  'expeditation',  or  removal  of  the  middle  claw, 
formerly  inflicted  on  dogs  of  private  persons  living  in  the  Forest. 

The  pedestrian  alone  can  thoroughly  explore  the  New  Forest,  but 
the  hurried  traveller  may  see  its  chief  beauties  in  the  course  of  a  single 
day's  drive  (or  walk)  from  Lyndhurst  by  taking  the  following  round  of 
about  15  M.  (one-horse  carr.  about  15«.  and  gratuity).  —  We  first  drive 
to  the  N.  to  (23/4  M.)  Minstead  (Trusty  Servant  Inn),  stopping  on  the 
way  to  visit  (1  M.)  the  Kennels  of  the  New  Forest  Hunt  (fee  to  keeper). 
For  Minstead  we  turn  to  the  left  about  V3  M.  farther  on,  the  road  in  a 
straight  direction  leading  to  (2  M.)  Cadnam.  Beyond  Minstead  we  pass 
between  Castle  Malwood  on  the  left  and  Castle  Malwood  Lodge  (Sir  Wm. 
Vernon  Harcourt)  on  the  right,  and  after  about  1  M.  turn  to  the  left  and 
follow  the  road  crossing  the  high-lying  Stoney  Cross  Plain.  In  the  pretty 
wooded  valley  below  us,  to  the  right,  is  the  Rufus  Stone,  erected  last 
century  by  the  Earl  of  Delaware,  a  descendant  of  the  founder  of  the  State 
of  Delaware,  on  the  supposed  spot  of  the  death  of  the  king  (see  in- 
scription). [We  may  send  the  carriage  on  to  the  (1  M.)  Stoney  Cross  Inn 
(CompI 071  Arms),  while  we  make  the  short  digression  to  the  monument.] 
At  Stoney  Cross  we  bend  to  the  left  and  begin  our  homeward  journey  by 
making  for  (3V2  M.)  '^Boldrewood,  where  we  inspect  the  'King'  and  'Queeu' 
oaks  and  other  magnificent  trees.  About  I'/a  M.  farther  on  is  the  ^Jfark 
Ash  Wood,  an  imposing  forest  sanctuary  with  hundreds  of  noble  beeches. 
We  then  proceed  by  a  new  road  through  Knight  Wood,  with  its  famous 
oak  (about  20  ft.  in  girth),  to  the  (2  M.)  main  road,  and  then  follow  the 
latter  to  the  N.E,  (left)  to  (IV2  M.)  Bank,  where  the  red  house  of  Miss 
Braddon  (Mrs.  Maxwell)  is  conspicuous  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  Thence 
to  Lyndhurst,  1  M.  —  Walkers  may  shorten  some  of  the  above  distances 
by  footpaths.  A  map  of  the  New  Forest  from  the  Ordnance  Survey  (1  inch 
to  the  mile)  may  be  obtained  at  Southampton  or  Lyndhurst  for  Qd. 

By  the  direct  road  Beaulieu  Abbey  (see  p.  82)  is  7  M.  from  Lynd- 
hurst, but  a  pleasant  detour  may  be  made  via  Brockenhitrst  (p.  95),  which 
lies  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Lyndhurst  and  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  abbey.  — 
Beaulieu,  pronounced  Bewley  (Montagu  Arms),  is  picturesquely  situated  at 
the  head  oi  Beaulieu  Creek,  where  the  little  river  Exe  flows  into  it.  The 
Cistercian  abbey  of  Beaulieu  was  founded  by  King  John  in  1204,  and 
possessed  the  privilege  of  a  sanctuary  down  to  the  dissolution  of  the 
monasteries.  Margaret  of  Anjou  and  her  sou  Prince  Edward  found 
shelter  here  shortly  before  the  battle  of  Tewkesbury  (p.  183).  Passing 
under  an  ivy-clad  portal,  we  reach  the  Abbot's  House,  now  used  as  a  res- 
idence by  Baron  Montagu.  The  "Church  of  the  village,  in  the  E.  E. 
style,  was  the  refectory  of  the  Abbey.  On  the  E.  wall  is  a  curious  mon- 
ument with  an  inscription  in  the  form  of  an  acrostic,  the  name  being 
formed  by  the  initial  lette'rs  of  the  lines. 

6* 


84 


12.   The  Channel  Islands. 


1.  Fkom  Socthampton  (p.  80).  Mail-steamers  ply  daily  (except  Sun.), 
starting  at  midnight,  and  also  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  at  11.30  a.m. 
('daylight  service'  -.  in  summer  only)  for  (6  hrs.)  Guernsey  and  (8  hrs.) 
Jersey.  These  sail  in  connection  with  the  London  d:  South  Western  Rail- 
way ,  the  mail-trains  of  which  leave  London  (Waterloo)  respectively  at 
10.10  p.m.  and  8.55  a.m.  and  run  alongside  the  boats.  Through-fares  from 
London  33*.,  23s.,  20s.  ;  return-tickets,  available  for  two  months,  48s..,  38s., 
30s. ;  2nd  and  3rd  class  passengers  may  travel  in  the  saloon  for  5s.  extra 
(8s.  for  the  double  journey).  Fares  from  Southampton  20s.,  14». ;  return 
33s.,  23s. 

2.  Fkom  Wevmolth  (p.  97;  shortest  sea -passage).  Steamers  daily, 
starting  at  2.10  a.m.  (except  Mon.)  and  1.30  p.m.  (except  Sun.)  for  (4i/2  hrs.) 
Guernsey  and  (6^/4  hrs.)  Jersey.  They  sail  in  connection  with  the  Great 
Western  Railway.,  the  boat-trains  of  which  leave  London  (Paddington)  re- 
spectively at  9.15  p.m.  and  8.50  a.m.,  and  run  alongside  the  steamers. 
Fares  as  above;  'daylight  service"  in  summer  only. 

3.  From  Plymouth  (p.  138).  Steamers  from  Sutton  Wharf  every  Mon. 
and  Thurs.  in  summer  at  10  p.m.,  reaching  Guernsey  at  5.30  a.m.  and 
Jersev  at  10  a.m.,  returning  on  Tues  and  Frid.  Fares  to  Guernsey  14s., 
12s.,  9s.,  return  24s.,  18s.,  15s.  ;  to  Jersey  16s.,  14s.,  10s.,  return  25s.,  20s.,  IBs. 

September  is  the  best  month  for  a  visit  to  the  Channel  Islands. 
Few  travellers  will  care  to  make  this  trip  unless  they  can  spend  a  week 
at  least  among  the  Islands,  but  a  fortnight,  a  month,  or  more  may  be 
pleasantly  passed  in  exploring  them.  The  following  Plan  for  a  Week's 
TocR  will  be  found  convenient.  1st  Day:  St.  Peter  Port.,  in  Guernsey, 
and  excursion  to  St.  Sampson.,  Bordeaux  Harbour.,  and  L''Ancresse  Bay.  — 
2nd  Day:  From  St.  Peter  Port  to  Moulin  Euet,  the  Creux  Mahie,  Lihou 
Island.,'  and.  other  points  on  the  S.  and  S.W.  coast  of  Guernsey.  —  3rd 
&  4th  Days:  Visits  to  Alderney  and  to  Sark  (note  the  days  on  which 
steamers  ply  to  these  islands,  pp.  88,  89).  —  5th  Day:  From  Guernsey  to 
Jersey.  St.  Helier's.  Excursion  to  Gorey  and  Mt.  Orgueil.  —  6th  Day: 
From  St.  Helier's  to  St.  Aubi7i''s,  St.  Brelade's  Bay,  the  Corbiire.,  the  Etac, 
the  Grhve  au  Langon.,  the  Grlve  au  Lecq,  and  back  through  the  interior  of 
the  island.  —  7th  Day:  Excursion  from  St.  Helier's  to  Bouley  Bay  and  the 
N.  Coast.  —  The  only  adequate  method  of  exploring  these  Islands  is  on 
foot.  But  Excursion'  Brakes  (fare  2s.  6(i.),  plying  daily  (including  Sun.) 
from  St.  Peter  Port  in  Guernsey  and  from  St.  Helier's  in  Jersey,  afford  a 
convenient  means  of  visiting  the  principal  points  of  interest,  which,  in 
the  case  of  each  island,  are  included  in  the  course  of  three  drives.  Pro- 
grammes of  the  routes  may  be  obtained  at  the  livery-stables  or  from  the 
guides  that  accompany  the  cars.     Carriages.,  20-25s.  per  day. 

Jersey  and  Guernsey  have  each  a  local  copper  coinage,  exactly  corre- 
sponding to  British  pence  and  halfpence.  With  this  exception  British 
money  alone  is  legally  current  in  Jersey,  but  both  in  that  island,  and  to 
a  greater  extent  in  Guernsey  and  Alderney,  French  gold  and  silver  coins 
and  local  \l.  notes  are  also  in  circulation.  In  many  shops  in  Guernsey 
a  premium  of  Is.  per  1/.  is  given  for  British  money.  The  custom-dues 
are  light.  Tobacco,  cigars,  and  tea  are  cheap,  so  are  the  inferior  spirits 
and  cordials  used  in  the  Islands.  High-class  wines  and  spirits  are, 
however,  little  cheaper  than  in  England,  and  provisions  generally  are 
quite  as  dear. 

Tbuse  who  desire  a  longer  account  of  the  Islands  are  referred  to  the 
special  histories  by  Falle,  Duncan,  Tupper,  and  Hoskins,  to  the  account  of 
Inglis,  and  to  'The  Channel  Islands',  by  Ansted  and  Latham.  Victor 
Hugo's  'Toilers  of  the  Sea'  should  be  read  by  visitors  to  Guernsey;  Miss 
Hesba  Stretlon's  'The  Doctor's  Dilemma'  by  visitors  to  Sark. 

The  group  usually  known  as  the  Channel  Islands  consists  of 
Jersey,  Ouernsey,  Alderney,  and  Sark,  together  with  a  number  of 
islets   and  rocks.      Their  joint  area  amounts  to  about  75  sq.  M., 


CHANNEL  ISLANDS.  12,  Route.     85 

and  in  1891  they  contained  92,272  inhabitants.  Geographically 
they  belong  to  France,  lying  in  the  bay  of  St.  Malo,  within  a  distance 
of  10-80  M.  from  the  coast  of  Normandy,  while  Alderney,  the  most 
northerly  of  the  group,  is  fully  50  M.  from  England.  They  have, 
however,  belonged  to  England  for  seven  centuries,  being  a  remnant 
of  its  Norman  possessions  lost  in  1204.  The  beautiful  scenery  of 
the  Islands  comprises  views  of  wild  grandeur  and  pleasing  rural 
landscapes  within  a  very  limited  space.  The  rocky  coasts  of  the  larger 
islands,  indeed,  vie  with  the  finest  scenery  of  the  kind  in  Great 
Britain.  The  strategic  position  of  the  Islands  is  so  important  that 
the  British  government  has  spent  vast  sums  on  their  defences.  St. 
Peter  Port,  St.  Helier's,  and  other  points  are  defended  by  strong 
forts ;  while  the  numerous  martello-towers,  watch-houses,  etc.  — 
now  left  to  decay  —  are  relics  of  an  obsolete  system  of  defence. 
The  good  roads  in  the  larger  islands  are  also  military  works. 

History.  The  early  history  of  the  Islands  is  wrapped  in  obscurity. 
The  original  inhabitants ,  who  have  left  traces  of  their  presence  in  the 
cromlechs ,  were  probably  of  Celtic  (Breton)  race.  The  Roman  occupa- 
tion of  Gaul  extended  to  these  islands,  and  Jersey  is  mentioned  under 
the  name  of  Caesarea  in  the  Itinerary  of  Antonine.  Christianity  seems 
to  have  been  introduced  in  the  6th  cent,  by  two  missionaries  from  the 
Continent,  whose  names  have  been  perpetuated  in  St.  Helier's,  in  Jersey, 
and  St.  Sampson ,  in  Guernsey.  At  a  later  date  they  were  occupied  by 
Rollo  and  his  Northmen,  and  they  became  part  of  the  duchy  of  Normandy 
in  932.  Under  the  first  four  Norman  kings  of  England  the  Islands  were  alter- 
nately under  English  and  Norman  rule,  but  since  the  accession  of  Henry  II. 
(1154)  tliey  have  been  permanently  united  with  England.  They  remained, 
however,  under  the  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  of  the  Bishop  of  Coutances 
down  to  the  Reformation,  when  they  were  annexed  to  the  see  of  Win- 
chester. King  John  is  said  to  have  granted  a  charter  to  Guernsey,  and 
it  seems  at  least  certain  that  the  Islands  have  enjoyed  a  distinct  political 
existence  since  his  reign.  In  the  Civil  War  Jersey  espoused  the  cause  of 
the  King,  and  Guernsey  that  of  the  Parliament,  a  divergence  of  which 
traces  are  still  noticeable.  During  the  French  and  American  wars  the  is- 
landers reaped  a  rich  harvest  by  privateering  and  smuggling.  Since  then 
their  legitimate  trade,  and  with  it  their  prosperity,  has  steadily  increased. 

The  Geological  Formation  of  the  Islands  is  almost  entirely  granitic, 
stratified  rocks  occurring  only  in  Jersey  and  Alderney.  The  granite  is 
generally  of  the  syenite  variety,  and  is  much  quarried  for  building-pur- 
poses. The  coasts  are  generally  very  rugged,  forming  numerous  bold 
headlands  and  capacious  bays.  The  Islands  contain  no  hills  of  great  ele- 
vation, the  highest  being  about  365  ft.  (in  Sark).  Jersey  is  well  wooded. 
The  Climate  is  very  mild  and  equable,  the  mean  annual  temperature 
being  about  51"  Fahr. ,  and  is  admirably  adapted  for  persons  with 
weak  che"^ts.  The  rain-fall,  amounting  to  30-35  inches,  is  rather  high, 
but  the  rapid  evaporation  prevents  undue  humidity.  Snow  and  frost 
are  rare.  The  so-called  'Summer  of  St.  Martin",  resembling  the  Indian 
Summer  of  America,  usually  sets  in  about  the  middle  of  October. 
The  Soil  is  fertile,  producing  good  crops  of  fruit,  wheat,  and  turnips; 
and  in  Jersey  potatoes  are  extensively  cultivated  for  exportation.  Large 
quantities  of  grapes  and  tomatoes,  ripened  under  glass  but  generally 
without  artificial  heat,  are  exported  from  Guernsey.  Figs,  medlars,  etc. 
also  reach  maturity  in  the  open  air;  and  American  aloes,  palms,  mag- 
nolias, and  similar  plants  flourish.  The  chief  manure  used  is  Vraic^  or 
sea-weed,  the  regular  gathering  of  which  forms  one  of  the  most  character- 
istic sights  in  the  Islands.  The  small  and  finely-shaped  cattle  peculiar 
to  the  Channel  Islands  are  widely  known  and  highly  prized  under  the 
name  of  Alderneys;   they  are  remarkable  for  the  quantity  and  quality  of 


86     Route  12.  GUERNSEY.  The  Channel 

the  milk  they  yield,  and  make  dairy-farming  a  very  profitable  pursuit. 
The  chief  varieties  of  fish  are  the  turbot,  mullet,  John  Dory,  lobsters, 
crabs,  conger-eels,  oysters,  and  a  kind  of  sand-eel  called  the  '■langon\ 
The  vegetation  of  the  Islands  is  very  rich  and  varied,  and  the  naturalist 
will  also  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  birds  of  Guernsey  and  the 
zoophytes  of  Sark  (p.  89). 

The  vernacular  Language  is  the  old  Norman  French,  varying  consider- 
ably in  the  different  islands +  *,  and  commoner  in  Guernsey  than  in  Jersey. 
English,  however,  is  very  generally  spoken  in  the  towns,  where  there  is 
a  large  admixture  of  English  residents  attracted  by  the  climate  and 
scenery.  French  is  the  official  language  of  the  courts.  The  inhabitants 
have  preserved  many  of  their  old  laws  and  customs,  and  are  in  several 
respects  different  both  from  their  English  and  their  French  neighbours. 
In  matters  of  government  the  Islands  form  two  divisions  or  bailiwicks, 
one  consisting  of  Jersey  alone,  the  other  of  Guernsey  and  the  smaller 
islands.  Freeman  stjies  them  'distinct  commonwealths'.  Each  bailiwick 
is  presided  over  by  a  lieutenant-governor  and  a  baililT,  or  judge,  appointed 
by  the  Crown  and  assisted  by  a  'States  Assembly'.  The  latter  body  in- 
cludes the  'jurats'  (see  below),  the  rectors  of  the  parishes,  and  a  number 
of  elected  deputies.  Judicial  affairs  are  managed  by  a  Royal  Court,  con- 
sisting of  the  bailiff  and  twelve  'jurats',  or  magistrates.  The  laws  relating 
to  property  are  very  peculiar,  those  of  succession  being  specially  elaborate. 
All  male  inhabitants  are  bound  to  serve  in  the  local  militia. 

In  approaching  the  Channel  Islands  from  Southampton  or  "Wey- 
mouth, the  steamer  first  comes  in  sight  of  the  dangerous  rocks  called 
the  Casquets,  where  the  Victory,  a  man-of-war,  was  lost  with  1100 
men  in  1744.  They  are  now  marked  by  a  triple  flashing  light. 
Alderney  (p.  89)  lies  about  8  M.  to  the  E.  The  first  stopping-place 
is  St.  Peter  Port,  the  capital  of  Guernsey. 

Guernsey  ('green  isle' ;  Latin,  Sarnia),  the  second  in  size  of 
the  Channel  Islands,  is  triangular  in  form,  and  measures  9^2  M. 
in  length  from  S.E.  to  N.W.  and  about  6  M.  in  breadth  at  its 
widest  part.  The  S.  coast  consists  of  a  bold  and  almost  uninter- 
rupted cliff,  rising  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  270  ft.  ,  from 
which  the  land  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  flat  beach  on  the  N. 
The  coast-scenery  is  finer  than  that  of  Jersey,  but  the  interior  is 
hinly  wooded  and  less  attractive.    Pop.  (1891)  35,339. 

St.  Peter  Port.  —  Hotels.  'Old  Government  House,  on  the  hill,  R. 
from  25.  6d.,  pens.  8«.  Qd.-10s.\  *Rotal,  facing  the  sea,  pens.  8s.  6d. ; 
Victoria,  High  St..  with  windows  on  the  Esplanade,  commercial,  with 
baths,  pens.  7-8s. ;  Channel  Islands  Hotel,  facing  the  sea-,  Cbown,  facing 
the  harbour,  plain,  pens.  5«.  6df.;  Broughton,  pens.  6s.  Qd.  —  Numerous 
private  lodgings. 

Cab  from  the  pier  to  the  hotels  2s. ;  Porter  from  pier  Qd. 

Excursion-Cars,  see  p.  84.  —  Carriage,  20s.  per  day. 

Boats.  Small  rowing-boats,  6d.  per  hour.  Sailing-boat,  with  man,  to 
Herin  10s. ;  to  Sark  (IV2  hr.  with  good  wind),  20s. 

Bathing  Places,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  bay;  adm.  3d.  Public  Bathing 
Placet  adjoining. 

TJ.  S.  Consular  Agent,   William  Carey,  Esq. 

St.  Peter  Port,  with  about  18,000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  rising  ground  in  a  shallow  bay  on  the  E.  side.     At  the  S.  end 


+  Students  of  the  patois  will  find  excellent  material  in  the  poems  and 
texts  published  in  the  Guille-Alles  Library  Series,  edited  hjJ.  L.  Pitts, 
with  English  translations  and  notes  (Bichard,  Guernsey). 


Islands.  GUERNSEY.  12.  Route.     S7 

of  the  broad  Esplanade  which  skirts  the  harbour  is  the  Gothic  Town 
Church  (St.  Peter's)^  perhaps  the  most  important  specimen  of  mediae- 
val architecture  (early  14th  cent.)  in  the  Islands,  lately  restored  and 
decorated.  Behind  the  church  is  the  commodious  Market,  200  ft.  in 
length,  where  fine  displays  of  fish,  flowers,and  vegetables  are  usually 
to  be  seen.  The  arcades  to  the  right  are  known  as  the  French  Market, 
because  the  fruit  and  vegetables  sold  there  come  chiefly  from  France. 
At  the  E.  end  of  the  latter  is  the  entrance  to  the  Guilte-Alles  Library 
and  Reading  Room,  founded  by  two  natives  of  the  town  fopen  daily, 
except  Sun.,  10-9;  tourists  are  invited  to  use  the  place  without 
charge ).  From  the  S.  side  of  the  church  the  steep  Cornet  St.  ascends 
to  Hauteville  St.,  No  38  in  which  is  *HaxitevUle  House,  a  large  house 
of  gloomy  exterior,  the  former  residence  of  Victor  Hugo.  The  house 
(adm.  2-4;  fee  Is.)  contains  numerous  interesting  memorials  of 
the  poet.  The  glass-covered  room  at  the  top,  the  floor  of  which  is 
also  a  massive  slab  of  glass,  was  Hugo's  study,  and  commands  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  port  and  neighbouring  islands. 

From  the  N.  or  White  Rock  Pier,  at  which  the  steamers  lie,  the 
Avenue  St.  Julien  ascends  to  the  fashionable  quarter  of  the  town, 
near  Cambridge  Park,  at  one  end  of  which  is  Castle  Cary,  the  resi- 
dence of  several  of  the  governors,  and  conspicuous  from  the  sea. 
Near  the  other  end  is  the  Candie  Library,  for  which  visitors  may 
obtain  a  ticket  on  written  application.  Farther  S.  is  the  prominent 
Victoria  Tourer  (view;  key  at  the  Militia  Arsenal  opposite;  small 
fee),  built  to  commemorate  the  visit  of  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince 
Albert  in  1846.  Still  farther  to  the  S.  are  the  Orange  Club  (visitors 
admitted  on  introduction)  and  the  large  but  unattractive  building 
of  Elizabeth  College.  In  Manor  St.  is  the  Royal  Court  House,  where 
the  States  meet,  with  several  portraits. 

On  a  rocky  islet  in  the  harbour,  connected  with  the  shore  by  a 
long  breakwater,  rises  Castle  Comet  (no  admission),  the  old  re- 
sidence of  the  governor,  and  formerly  considered  a  strong  fortress. 
Part  of  it  is  said  to  be  of  Roman  workmanship.  In  1672  it  was 
blown  up  by  an  explosion  of  gunpowder.  The  infant  daughter  of 
the  governor,  Viscount  Hatton,  was  discovered  next  day  unhurt  and 
asleep  amid  the  ruins,  and  lived  to  be  the  Countess  of  Winchelsea 
and  mother  of  30  children.  Farther  to  the  S.,  on  the  cliff  overlook- 
ing the  bathing-places  (p.  86),  is  Fort  George,  one  of  the  strongest 
fortresses  in  the  Islands. 

The  chief  attraction  of  Guernsey  consists  in  the  coast-scenery  on 
the  S.E.  and  S.  There  are  inns  at  various  points  of  the  coast,  but 
the  best  plan  is  to  fix  our  headquarters  at  St.  Peter  Port. 

About  11/2  ^1-  to  tlie  S.  of  St.  Peter  Port  is  Fermain  Bay,  with  a 
sandy  beach  backed  by  walls  of  rock.  On  the  height,  '/2  ^^'  *o  the 
S.,  rises  the  Doyle  Column,  150  ft.  high  (key  at  first  cottage  to  the 
W.),  erected  in  honour  of  Sir  John  Doyle,  a  former  governor  of 
the  island,   and  commanding  an  extensive  view.     The  view  from 


88     Route  12.  GUERNSEY.  The  Channel 

the  promontory  of  Jerbourg^  ^2  M.  to  the  S.,  is,  however,  quite  as 
fine.  *Moulin  Huet  Bay,  to  the  W.  of  the  point,  and  21/2  M.  from 
St.  Peter  Port,  is  one  of  the  finest  spots  in  Guernsey,  The  cliffs 
here,  200-300  ft.  in  height,  are  very  imposing.  Farther  on  is  the 
charming  Saints^  Bay.  Round  the  next  point  is  Icart  Bay,  with  the 
picturesque  cove  of  Petit  Bot  (rfmts.)  in  its  N.W.  angle.  The  most 
interesting  points  farther  on  are  the  Gouffre  (Hotel),  a  kind  of  rocky 
cauldron  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  gorge,  41/2  M.  from  the  harbour; 
the  Corbiere  [5M.),a  headland  remarkable  for  the  green  veins  inter- 
secting its  pink  and  gray  granite;  and  the  Creux  Ma/iie  (6V2M.), 
a  cavern  200  ft.  long,  accessible  by  a  steep  and  difficult  descent 
from  the  cliffs  above.  The  points  from  Fermain  Bay  to  the  Gouffre 
may  be  visited  in  the  course  of  a  fatiguing  but  interesting  walk 
(2-3  hrs.)  along  a  narrow  path  skirting  the  slopes  and  tops  of  the  cliffs. 

The  church  of  St.  Martin,  21/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  St.  Peter 
Port,  has  a  pretty  porch ;  and  the  Chapel  of  St.  Apolline,  near  St. 
Saviour's,  4  M.  to  the  W,,  is  a  curious  example  of  very  early  archi- 
tecture (ascribed  to  the  5th  cent.). 

At  the  S.  W.  angle  of  the  island  are  (71/2  M.  from  St.  Peter  Port) 
Pleinmont  Point  and  Caves,  and  off  the  coast  the  Hanois  Rocks  and 
lighthouse.  The  deserted  watch-house  on  the  cliff,  above  the  Gull 
Rock  (echo),  is  identified  with  the  'Haunted  House"  in  the  'Toilers 
of  the  Sea'.  A  good  road  skirts  the  low  N.W.  coast,  with  its  pictur- 
esque wide  bays,  defended  by  forts  and  batteries.  Near  the  village  of 
L'Eree  (Inn)  is  a  well-preserved  dolmen,  known  as  the  Creux  des 
Fees.  Off  the  coast  here  is  the  small  island  of  Lihou,  with  some 
picturesque  rocks,  once  the  seat  of  an  old  priory  (12th  cent.). 

An  Electric  Railway  runs  to  the  N.  from  St.  Peter  Port  to  St. 
Sampson^  the  second  town  of  the  island,  with  important  quarries  of 
blue  granite.  About  halfway  we  pass,  1/2  ^  to  the  left,  Ivy  Castle, 
a  picturesque  Norman  ruin ;  and  beyond  Banks  Village  an  Obelisk 
in  memory  of  Admiral  Lord  Saumarez  (1757-1836),  a  native  of  St. 
Peter  Port.  Beyond  St.  Sampson  is  Vale  Castle,  or  St.  Michael's 
Castle,  above  the  small  bay  known  as  Bordeaux  Harbour,  noted  for 
its  fine  zoophytes.  —  From  Banks  Village  (see  above)  'Doyle's  Road' 
(omnibus)  runs  to  the  N.W.  to  Vale  Church  (1117),  near  the  race- 
course and  golf-ground.  To  the  N.  is  L'Ancresse  Bay  and  Common 
(with  numerous  Celtic  remains). 

About  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  Guernsey  lie  the  islets  of  Herm  and  Jethou 
(occasional  excursion-steamers ;  boat,  see  p.  86),  both  overrun  by  immense 
numbers  of  rabbits.  Herm  possesses  a  small  'creux'  like  that  in  Sark 
(p.  90)  ;  but  the  only  part  of  the  island  now  open  to  visitors  (Mun.  only ; 
6rf.)  is  the  'Shell-beach'',  one  of  the  happiest  hunting-grounds  for  the  con- 
chologist  in  Great  Britain.  The  channels  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  these  islets 
are  known  as  the  Great  and  Little  Rutsel. 

The  islands  oi  Alderney  and  Sark  should  be  visited  from  Guern- 
sey before  we  go  on  to  Jersey. 

Steamers  leave  St.  Peter  Port  for  Aldernpjj  and  Cherbourg  on  Tnes., 
Thur.s.,  and  Sat.  at  9  or  9.30  a.m.,  returning  on  Wed.,  Thurs.,    and  Sat. 


Jslands.  ALDERNEY.  12.  Route.     89 

or  Sun.  (fares  to  Alderney  4.<  \  to  Cherbourg  8s.  and  12».,  return,  avail- 
able for  a  month,  12«.  and  16«.);  for  Sark,  several  times  vi'eekly  (return 
fare  2s.);  for  Granville  on  Mon.  (fare  8'.);  for  St.  Malo  on  Tues.  (fare  8s.). 
The  above  data  refer  to  the  summer  months. 

Alderney  (French  Aurigny,  Latin  Aurinia) ,  the  third  in  size 
of  the  Channel  Islands,  lies  20M.  to  theN.  of  Guernsey,  and  is  4M. 
in  length  and  I72  M.  in  hreadth.  In  1891  it  contained  1843  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  English.  Of  great  military  importance, 
it  is  defended  by  a  series  of  strong  forts  and  batteries,  the  most 
important  being  Fort  Albert,  on  the  N.  side,  the  guns  of  which  com- 
mand the  harbour  of  Braye.,  where  the  steamer  lands  its  passen- 
gers. The  costly  but  ill-designed  breakwater  is  often  damaged 
by  the  violence  of  the  sea.  About  1  M.  from  the  pier,  in  the  centre 
of  the  island,  is  the  small  town  of  St.  Anne  [Scott's  Hotel,  pens. 
85.  Qd. ;  several  small  Inns ;  lodgings),  with  a  church  in  the  E.E. 
style,  designed  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  and  erected  to  the  memory 
of  John  Le  Mesurier,  the  last  of  the  hereditary  governors.  As  in 
Guernsey,  the  S.  and  S.E.  coast  of  Alderney  consists  of  a  range  of 
almost  perpendicular  cliffs,  from  the  top  of  which  the  land  slopes 
gradually  down  to  the  flat  but  rocky  shore  on  the  N.  The  scenery 
of  the  granite  and  porphyry  cliffs  is  very  grand  and  varied,  but  it 
is  generally  difficult  to  reach  the  beach  at  their  base  either  by  land 
or  water.  Among  the  finest  points  are  the  Lovers  Chair  and  the 
Hanging  Rock  (Roche  Pendante),  the  latter  a  curious  isolated  col- 
umn of  sandstone,  60  ft.  high.  The  geological  veinings  of  the  rocks 
are  often  singular.  Alderney  is  separated  from  the  islet  of  Burhou 
by  the  channel  called  The  Swinge,  and  from  Normandy  by  the  Race 
of  Alderney,  7  M.  wide,  which  is  very  dangerous  in  rough  weather. 
Through  this  channel  the  remnant  of  the  French  fleet  escaped  after 
the  Battle  of  La  Hogue  in  1693. 

Sark  [pixcnrt  Hotel,  Is.  6d.  per  day,  luncheon  25. ;  Bel  Air,  %s.  6rf.; 
Victoria,  6s.),  also  called  Serk  or  Sercq,  3V2  ^I-  long  and  l^Yi  M. 
wide  in  the  middle,  with  572  inhab.  (in  189"l),  lies  6  M.  to  the  E. 
of  Guernsey.  A  visit  to  this  most  picturesque  island  should  on  no 
account  be  omitted.  Those  who  devote  to  it  only  the  interval  be- 
tween the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  steamer  from  Guernsey  should 
visit  the  Coupee,  the  Gouliot  Caves  (at  low  water),  Dixcart  Bay 
(lunching  at  Dixcart  Hotel),  the  Creux  Derrible,  and,  if  time  and 
energy  permit,  the  Seigneurie. 

The  steamer  which  rounds  the  S.  end  of  Sark  in  going,  the  N. 
end  in  returning,  lands  passengers  at  the  picturesque  Creux  Har- 
bour,  on  the  W.  side,  to  the  N.  of  the  Buron  Islets,  whence  a 
tunnel  leads  through  the  high  cliffs  to  the  interior  of  the  island 
(boat  from  the  steamer  at  low  water  5d.  each).  The  road  from  the 
harbour  ascends  to  the  Victoria  Hotel.  Keeping  straight  on  past 
the  hotel,  we  pass  through  a  gate  into  a  pretty  avenue  of  elms,  at 
the  end  of  which,  near  the  school,  we  bear  to  the  left.  A  few 
yards  farther  on  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  passing  a  conspicuous 


90    Route  12.  SARK.  The  Channel 

windmill,  reach  the  hamlet  of  Vaurocque.  Hence  the  main  road  leads 
to  the  left  (S.)  direct  to  (40  min.  from  the  harhonr)  the  *  Coupee^ 
a  natural  causeway,  100yds.  long  and  only  from  15  to  20ft.  broad, 
with  a  nearly  vertical  descent  of  290  ft.  on  one  side,  uniting  theN. 
and  S.  parts  of  the  island,  known  as  Great  and  Little  Sark.  A  little 
beyond  the  Coupe'e  a  faintly-marked  path  leads  off  to  the  left,  across 
the  common,  to  the  curious  'creux',  called  the  Pot  (steep  and 
difficult  descent).  We  may  follow  the  cliffs  to  the  S.  end  of  Little 
Sark,  where  there  are  some  abandoned  silver-mines,  returning  by 
the  road.  —  The  road  leading  due  W.  from  Vaurocque  (see  above) 
soon  forks,  near  a  farm.  The  path  to  the  right  (pass  through  the 
gate,  skirt  the  wall,  and  bear  to  the  right  at  the  ruined  cottage) 
leads  to  the  Gouliot  Caves^  which  are  extraordinarily  rich  in  bril- 
liantly coloured  zoophytes.  The  final  descent  to  the  Caves,  access- 
ible only  at  low  water,  requires  caution.  Opposite  lies  Brecqhou 
or  lie  des  Marchands,  separated  from  Sark  by  a  narrow  channel  not- 
ed for  its  irregular  and  powerful  currents.  A  frigate  is  said  once 
to  have  safely  navigated  the  channel,  which  it  had  entered  through 
an  error.  The  path  to  the  left  at  the  farm  (see  above)  leads  past  a 
Monument  to  Mr.  J.  G.  Pilcher  and  others,  drowned  off  the  coast  in 
1868,  to  the  fisherman's  port  oC  Havre  Gosselin^  where  a  ladder 
affords  the  only  means  of  embarking  or  disembarking.  —  A  road 
diverging  to  the  left  (sign -post)  from  that  between  Vaurocque 
and  the  Coupee  leads  to  the  prettily  situated  Dixcart  Hotel,  beneath 
which  is  the  charming  Dixcart  Bay.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  Derrible 
Bay,  with  the  *Creux  Derrible,  a  natural  shaft  or  funnel  in  the  cliff, 
nearly  180  ft.  high,  the  bottom  of  which  may  be  entered  at  low 
water.  Thence  we  return  to  the  Victoria  Hotel.  —  The  Seigneurie, 
or  manor  of  the  'Lord  of  Sark',  is  reached  by  the  road  running  N. 
from  the  W.  end  of  the  avenue  of  elms  (see  above).  The  well-kept 
grounds  are  open  to  the  public  on  Mon.  and  Thurs. ;  the  house  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  a  church  founded  by  St.  Maglorius  in  the  6th 
century.  On  the  N.W.  coast  of  the  island  are  the  interesting  Bou- 
tiques Caverns,  probably  once  used  by  smugglers,  and  a  picturesque 
group  of  detached  rocks  called  Les  Autelets. 

Feom  Gdernset  To  .Terrey.  The  railway  steamers  (p.  84)  take  about 
IV2  hr.  from  St.  Peter  Port  to  (30  M.)  St."  Heliers.  There  is  also  in 
summer  a  special  daily  service  between  these  ports.  Fares  5s.,  85.  Qd.  -. 
return  75.6c/.,  S.-!.  By  Plymouth  steamers  (p.  84),  fares  3s.,  2s.  6d.,  25.; 
return  5s.,  4s.,  35. 

Jersey  ('grass  isle'),  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  Chan- 
nel Islands,  lies  18  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Guernsey  and  16  M.  from 
the  French  coast.  It  is  10  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.  and  5-6  M.  wide 
from  N.  to  S.  The  land  is  high  on  the  N.  side,  and  slopes  down  to 
the  S.  and  E.  The  N.  coast  consists  of  a  lofty  and  picturesque  wall 
of  cliff,  penetrated  by  numerous  small  Inlets,  while  the  other  coasts 
expand  in  large  and  open  bays,  with  fine  sandy  beaches.  The  inter- 
ior, which  is  intersected  by  several  streams ,  is  also  picturesque, 


Islands.  JERSEY.  12.  Route.     91 

especially  the  small  valleys  and  tlie  old  roads,  almost  concealed 
by  hedge-rows  and  trees.  In  1891  the  island  contained  54,518  in- 
habitants, who  carry  on  an  active  trade  with  England,  France,  Canada, 
and  Newfoundland.  Large  quantities  of  early  potatoes  ( ca.  500,000  i.), 
pears,  and  apples  are  annually  exported,  principally  to  Covent  Gar- 
den. Among  the  vegetable  curiosities  of  the  island  is  the  'Cow  Cab- 
bage', which  grows  to  a  height  of  8-10  ft.  and  is  made  into  walking- 
sticks.    English  is  mu(>h  more  generally  spoken  than  in  Guernsey. 

St.  Heller's.  —  Hotels.  BRfiE's  RoTAL  Hotel,  David  Place,  at  some 
distance  from  tlie  harbour,  pens.  8.?.  6d.-125.,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.  ;  United 
Service  Hotel,  David  Place,  near  Bre'e's,  pens.  Is.-,  Roval^  Yacht,  near 
the  pier,  pens.  8s.  6d.,  R.  &  A.  from  2.<.  3d.;  Graxd,  pens.  10s.  6d.,  well 
spoken  of,  with  swimming  and  Turkish  baths,  Minor's  Private  Hotel, 
pens.  8s.  Gd.,  these  both  facing  the  sea,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Esplanade-, 
British,  Broad  St.,  pens.  Is.  Of/.,  Halket,  Broad  St.,  7s.  —  York,  Royal 
Square,  Is.  6d.  ;  Star,  near  the  Pier,  Franklin,  unpretending;  Temperance 
Hotel,  Broad  St.,  pens.  6s.  —  French  Houses:  Pomme  d'Or,  facing  the 
sea,  pens,  from  7s. ;  Hotel  de  l'Europe,  Mulcaster  St.,  10  fr.  —  Board- 
ing Houses  and  Lodgings  numerous,  but  often  full  in  the  season.  — 
Restaurants  at  most  of  the  hotels. 

Theatre,  Gloucester  St.,  adm.  Qd.-3s.  —  Pavilion,  near  the  Grand  Hotel 
and  the  Public  P;irks,  concerts  several  eA'enings  weekly.  —  Band  on  the 
pier  and  in  the  People's  Park,  each  once  a  week  in  summer. 

Post  Office,  Grove  Place.  —  Baths.  Victoria  Baths,  George  Town;  at 
the  Grand  Hotel,  see  above. 

Steamers  from  .Jersey  to  Granville  and  St.  Malo  (fares  10  fr.,  6  fr.  25  c; 
return,  available  for  a  month,  16  fr.,  9  fr.  40  c.)  ply  daily  in  summer ;  to 
St.  Brienc  (8s.,  6s.,  5s.,  return  available  for  two  months  12s.,  10s.,  Ss.)  once 
weekly.  —  To  Guernsey.,  daily,  comp.  p.  84.  —  The  Southampton  steamers 
start  from  the  Victoria  Pier,  the  farthest  from  the  town,  the  Weymouth 
steamers  from  the  Albert  or  S.  Pier.  —  From  Gorey  Pier  (p.  92)  a  steamer 
plies  daily  in  summer  to  Cartaret  in  France  in  80  min.  (return-ticket,  valid 
on  day  of  issue  or  from  Sat.  to  Mon.,  Os.  Qd.,  3s.  Qd.). 

Cabs.  For  the  first  mile  Is.,  each  additional  mile  or  fraction  6d.; 
from  the  harbour  to  the  town  Is.  6(f . ;  per  hour  2s.  6d.,  each  addit.  ^/zhr. 
Is.  —  Omnibus  from  the  harbour  to  the  town  Qd. 

Excursion  Cars,  see  p.  84.  —  Carriages,  20*.  per  day. 

Railway  to  Corbiere,  7V2  M.,  in  Vz  hr. ;  to  Gore;/  Pier,  G'/z  M.,  in  22  min. 
Trains  several  times  daily.  Return-tickets  entitle  the  holders  to  break  the 
journey  at  any  intermediate  station, 

U.  S.  Consular  Agent,  E.  B.  Renovf,  Esq.,  15  Royal  Square. 

St.  Heliers,  the  capital  of  Jersey,  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  beautiful  Bay  of  St.  Aubin,  on  the  S.  of  the  island.  It  is  a 
well-built  and  flourishing  town  with  29,13.^  inhab.  and  combines 
the  character  of  a  busy  seaport  with  that  of  a  fashionable  watering- 
place.  It  is  a  favourite  residence  for  retired  officers  of  the  army 
and  navy  and  it  contains  many  schools,  the  chief  of  which  is  Vic- 
toria College,  a  handsome  building  on  the  E,  side  of  the  town 
(1852). 

The  harbour  is  enclosed  by  substantial  piers,  but  is  dry  at  low 
water.  To  the  N.  is  the  Town  Church,  a  Gothic  edifice  of  the  14th 
cent.,  lately  restored.  Opposite  the  E.  end  is  Royal  Square,  the 
former  market-place,  with  a  curious  gilt  statue  of  George  II.  The 
square  was  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Major  Pierson  at  the  Battle 
of  Jersey  in  1781,  when  an  attempt  by  the  French  to  seize  the  town 


92     Route  12.  JERSEY.  The  Channel 

v/as  siicoessfully  repulsed.  On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  square  is  a  block 
of  buildings  containing  the  Cohiie  Royal  or  court-house,  the  Salle 
des  E(!at5,  or  parliament-house,  and  the  Public  Library  (17,000  vols.). 
The  two  former  are  shown  by  an  usher  (small  fee) ;  in  the  Cohue 
Royal  is  a  copy  of  Copley's  'Death  of  Major  Pierson'  (see  p.  91), 
and  a  portrait  of  Gen.  Con-way,  by  Gainsborough.  Broad  St.,  lead- 
ing W.  from  Royal  Square,  contains  an  obelisk  in  memory  oi  Pierre 
Le  Sueur  (1811-1853),  five  times  mayor  of  St.  Helier's,  and  is  con- 
tinued by  York  St.,  with  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  to  the  Parade^  an  open 
space  planted  with  trees  and  embellished  with  a  monument  to  Gen. 
Don,  a  former  governor.  Farther  to  the  W.  is  the  People's  Park, 
above  which  rises  the  Gallows  Hill.  —  To  the  N.E.  of  the  town  is 
the  Maison  St.  Louis,  a  house  of  the  Jesuits. 

On  a  ridge  to  the  E.  of  the  harbour  rises  Fort  Regent  (no  adm.), 
a  strong  and  massive  modern  fortress,  erected  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
l.OOOjOOOi.  In  size,  and  as  a  defence,  this  stronghold  eclipses  the 
picturesque  old  Elizabeth  Castle,  situated  on  a  rock  in  the  middle 
of  the  harbour  (permit  for  the  latter  on  application  at  the  Governor  s 
Office,  No.  8,  Stopford  Road).  On  an  adjoining  rock  are  the  ruius 
of  a  very  ancient  structure,  which  tradition  names  the  Hermitage  of 
St.  Holier  or  Elericus  (p.  85). 

The  excursions  from  St.  Helier's  may  be  conveniently  grouped 
into  the  following  three  sections,  which  comprise  all  the  most  inter- 
esting parts  of  the  island.  They  may  be  made  by  the  excursion-cars 
(p.  84),  or  partly  by  rail  (p.  91)  and  partly  on  foot.  The  pedestrian, 
however,  may  perform  the  circuit  of  the  island  without  returning  at 
night  to  St.  Helier's,  as  there  are  fair  inns  at  many  different  points 
(comp.  pp.  93,  94). 

1.  From  St.  Helier's  to  Gorey  and  E.  Jersey.  Eastern  Railway 
to  Gorey  Pier  in  22min.,  skirting  the  fiat  coast  most  of  the  way, 
affording  a  view  of  the  wide  Grouville  Bay  with  Fort  Henry  in  the 
centre.  There  are  several  intermediate  stations.  11  min.  Pontac 
(Old  Pontac  Hotel)  is  the  station  for  the  village  of  St.  Clement,  with 
an  old  church  containing  some  curious  frescoes.  13  min.  La  Rocque 
is  the  chief  Ashing  station  in  the  island.  16  min.  Grouville,  near 
Gorey  Common,  on  which  are  a  golf-course,  rifle-range,  and  race- 
course. 19  min.  Gorey  Village.  — 22  Gorey  Pier  (British  Hotel)  lies 
at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  headland  crowned  with  *Mont  Orgueil  Castle, 
an  imposing  and  picturesque  ruin,  part  of  which  is  said  to  date 
from  the  Roman  period.  The  Chapel  of  St.  George ,  with  short 
thick  piers  and  colonettes,  is  interesting.  Charles  II.  resided  here 
for  some  time  during  his  exile,  and  for  three  years  (1637-40)  it  was 
the  prison  of  William  Prynne,  the  pamphleteer,  who  wrote  a 
poem  on  the  castle.  On  a  clear  day  the  spires  of  Coutances  Cathe- 
dral can  be  seen  from  the  battlements.  Steamer  to  Cartaret,  p.  91; 
frequent  steamers  also  to  Port  Bail. 

Beyond  Gorey  we  proceed   on  foot  along  the  coast  to  the  N. 


Islands.  JERSEY.  12.  Route.     93 

Beyond  Anne  Port  and  St.  Catharine's  Harbour  is  (1  hr.  from  Gorey) 
the  breakwater  of  Pierre  Mouillie.  This  massive  work,  800  yds. 
long,  was  constructed  in  1843-55  at  a  cost  of  250,000^.  as  the  be- 
ginning of  a  harbour  of  refuge,  before  it  was  discovered  that  the 
set  of  the  tides,  etc.,  rendered  the  enterprise  entirely  useless.  Beyond 
Verciut  Point  is  FLicquet  Bay^  bounded  on  the  N.  by  an  almost  de- 
tached headland  called  La  Coupe.  On  the  next  headland,  the  Cou- 
peron,  is  a  dolmen  ;  and  beyond  it  is  the  secluded  little  bay  of 
*Rozel  (Hotel),  a  favourite  point  for  picnics  from  St.  Helier's.  From 
this  point  we  may  return  by  the  road  leading  to  the  S.  through  the 
interior  of  the  island,  passing  first  St.  Martin's  Church  (I'ith  cent.), 
with  an  elegant  tower  disastrously  'restored'.  Farther  on  is  La 
Hogue  Bie,  or  the  Prince's  Tower  (adm.  6d.),  a  modern  structure 
erected  on  an  interesting  ancient  tumulus.  The  *View  from  the 
top  is  very  fine,  embracing  the  whole  island,  with  its  park-like 
interior  and  indented  coasts ;  to  the  E.  the  coast  of  Normandy  is 
visible.  About  1  M.  farther  on  is  the  hamlet  of  Five  Oaks,  beyond 
which  we  pass  St.  Saviour's  Church,  the  Government  House,  and 
Victoria  College  (p.  91),  reaching  St.  Helier's  after  about  10  M. 
walking  from  Gorey. 

Those  who  have  less  time  to  spare  may  proceed  from  Gorey  direct 
to  St.  Martin's  Church  or  to  La  Hogue  Bie,  reaching  St.  Helier's  after  a 
walk  in  the  former  case  of  6  M.,  in  the  latter  of  about  4i/2M.  The  direct 
road  from  Gorey  to  St.  Helier's  via  Grouville  is  about  3  M. 

2.  From  St.  Helier's  to  St.  Aubin's,  Corbiere,  and  W.  Jersey. 
The  Western  Railway  (p.  91)  and  the  road  skirt  the  edge  of  the 
broad,  flat  St.  Aubin's  Bay.  At  low  tide  the  sands  may  be  crossed 
on  foot. 

St.  Aubin's  (^Sommerville,  well  spoken  of,  8s.  Qd.-iOs.  6rf.)  is  a 
small  town  with  a  harbour  and  an  old  castle  built  on  a  detached 
rock  like  Elizabeth  Castle  at  St.  Helier's. 

Beyond  St.  Aubin's  the  road  leads  to  the  W.  to  (I1/2  M.)  St.  Brelade\<^ 
Church,  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the  Channel  Islands  (illl  ;  under- 
going restoration),  situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  attractive  St.  Brelade's 
Bay  (Hotel).  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  Fisherman''s  Chapel,  a  still  earlier 
structure.  At  high  tide  the  sea  washes  over  the  churchyard.  The  little 
inlet  of  Beauport,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  bay,  contains  some  very  pic- 
turesque rock-scenery.  About  2  M.  beyond  the  church  is  La  Corl  iere  (see 
below),  which  may  also  be  reached  by  the  cliffs. 

To  the  S.  of  St.  Aubin's  are  the  pretty  grounds  of  Noirmont  Manor 
(admission  usually  granted  on  application  at  the  lodge).  The  avenue  leads 
to  Noirmont  Point,  to  the  W.  of  which  is  Portelet  Bay,  with  granite  quar 
ries.  Janvrin  Island  in  this  bay  (accessible  at  low  water)  derives  its 
name  from  a  sea-captain  who,  with  his  whole  crew,  died  here  of  plague 
in  1721,  while  in  quarantine. 

The  railway  runs  inland  from  St.  Aubin's  (only  G  trains  daily 
beyond  St.  Aubin's),  crossing  the  sandy  plateau  of  Le  Quenvais. 
LaMoye,  the  fourth  station  from  St.  Aubin's,  is  the  most  convenient 
for  those  desiring  to  explore  St.  Ouen's  Bay,  etc.  (see  p.  94),  on 
foot.  The  terminus  of  the  railway  is  at  (71/2  ^J-l -^ci  Corbitre,  the 
S.W.  extremity  of  the  island,  where  there  is  a  lighthouse  (permit 


94     Route  12.  JERSEY. 

obtained  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville  in  St.  Heller's).  Fantastic  rocky 
scenery. 

La  Corbiere  forms  tbe  S.  headland  of  the  wide  and  open  Bay 
of  St.  Ouen,  which  occupies  almost  the  whole  of  the  W.  coast.  At 
the  opposite  end  of  the  bay,  5V2  ^^-  to  the  N.,  is  the  Etac,  another 
detached  mass  of  rock.  Accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  the  inn  in 
the  adjoinina:  village.  About  3/4  M.  farther  on  is  a  detached  pinnacle 
of  rock,  160  ft.  high,  known  as  La  Pule,  and  ^/^  M.  beyond  is  Cape 
Grosnez,  the  N.W.  point  of  the  island,  marked  by  a  picturesque 
ruined  arch.  The  adjoining  *Greve  au  LanQon  is  frequently  visit- 
ed for  its  curious  caverns  and  fissures,  which,  however,  are  most 
easily  reached  from  Plemont  Point,  on  the  opposite  side.  A  good 
view  is  obtained  here  of  the  other  Channel  Islands.  A  walk  of  1V2^' 
along  the  coast  brings  us  to  the  *Greve  de  Lecq  (Hotel  and  Inn), 
another  fine  bay.  with  some  curious  caves  and  a  ruined  breakwater. 
The  return  to  (j^/o  ^1^0  St.  Helier's  may  be  made  hence  through  the 
heart  of  the  island,  passing  <Sf.  Mary's  Church  (1320),  the  hamlet  of 
Six  Roads,  and  St.  Lawrence's  Church  (1199)  ;  or  the  excursion  may 
be  continued  along  the  N.  coast  to  join  the  following. 

3.  From  St.  Helier's  to  Bouley  Bat  and  the  N.  Coast. 
This  excursion  affords  a  good  idea  of  the  luxuriant  woods  and  rich 
pastures  of  the  interior  of  the  island.  The  first  part  of  the  route 
lies  through  the  picturesque  Val  des  Vaux,  the  birthplace  of  Lem- 
priere  (1750-1824).  A  little  beyond  the  (31/2  M.)  Church  of  the 
Trmjfy  (1163),  a  striking  *View  is  disclosed  of  the  bay,  the  azure 
sea,  and  the  coast  of  Normandy  in  the  background.  The  scenery 
of  (41/2  M.)  *Bouley  Bay  is  very  bold,  the  cliffs  rising  at  one  point 
to  a  height  of  250  ft.  About  '/o  ^^-  to  the  E.  is  Rozel  (p.  93). 
About  11/2  M.in  the  opposite  direction  is  Bonne  Nuit  Harbour,  be- 
hind which  are  the  pink  granite  quarries  of  Mont  Mado.  About 
2-21/2  ^^'  farther  on  are  the  curious  cove  of  La  Houle,  Sorel  Pointy 
the  Les  Mouriers  Waterfall ,  and  the  cavern  of  Creux  de  Vis  or 
Devil's  Hole  (2d.'),  all  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  They  are  almost  im- 
mediately followed  by  the  Crabbe,  a  deep  and  narrow  gorge,  about 
1  M.  from  the  Greve  de  Lecq  (see  above). 

13.    From  Southampton  to  Bournemouth,  Dorchester, 
and  Weymouth. 

Railway  from  Southamptou  to  ("30  M.)  Bournemouth  East  iu  l-l'/^lir. 
(fares  55.,  3*.  2d.,  2s.  6d.);  to  {GOV's  M.)  Dorchesttr  in  2i;V23/4  hrs.  (fares 
10*.  2d.,  {Js.  6d.,  5s.  Id.) 5  to  (68  M.)  Weymouth  in  21/2-31/4  ^rs.  {iis.  id.. 
Is.,  bs.  Sd.).  —  The  line  traverses  the  Xew  Forest  (p.  82),  affording 
charming  views  of  that  district  and  afterwards  of  the  sea  (to  the  left). 

Travellers  by  this  line  start  from  the  station  at  Southampton 
West ,  as  the  through  -  trains  from  London  (Waterloo )  pass  to  the 
N.  of  the  town  without  running  in  to  the  Terminus  at  the  Docks 
(comp.  p.  80).  —  At  (31/.2  M.)  Redbridge.  whence  a  branch  runs  to 


BOURNEMOUTH.  13.  Route.     95 

Romsey  (p.  82),  the  train  crosses  the  head  of  Southampton  Water 
(view  to  the  left)  and  turns  to  the  S.  —  4  M.  Totton.  At  (7  M.) 
Lyndhurst  Road  (New  Forest  Hotel)  we  reach  the  borders  of  the 
New  Forest  (omn.  to  Lyndhurst,  see  p.  83).  91/2^1'  Jieaulieii  Road, 
the  nearest  station  to  Beaulieu  Abbey  (  p.  83).  — 14  M.  Brockenhurst 
(Rose  (f  Crown),  i.e.  'Badgers'  Wood',  a  good  starting-point  for 
excursions  in  the  New  Forest  (comp.  p.  82).  Part  of  the  interest- 
ing church  is  believed  to  be  Saxon.  On  Balmer  Lawn ,  near 
Brockenhurst.  the  annual  Races  for  the  ponies  of  the  New  Forest 
take  place  in  August. 

From  Brockenhurst  diverges  the  line  to  (5  M.)  Lymington  (Londes- 
borough  Arms;  Angel),  the  starting-point  of  the  steamers  to  Yarmouth 
and  Totland  Bay  in  the  Isle  of  Wight  (comp.  p.  73).  Lymington  is  cele- 
brated for  its  yacht-building  yards.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Solent  and  best  reached  by  water,  is  Hurst  Castle,  one  of  Henry  VIII. a 
coast-defences,  and  for  a  time  the  prison  of  Charles  I.  (comp.  p.  72).  There 
is  a  signalling  station  at  Hurst  Castle  for  steamers  entering  the  Solent 
(for  Southampton,  etc.). 

From  Brockenhurst  to  Dorchester  and    Weymouth,  see  p.  96. 

The  Bournemouth  Line  passes  (18  M.)  Sway,  (21  M.)  Milton  [fox 
Milford-on-Sea'),  and  (24V2  M.)  Hinton  Admiral.  —  27  M.  Christ- 
church  (^King's  Arms ,  well  spoken  of)  is  a  seaport  with  an  an- 
cient *Priory  Church,  a  beautiful  Norman  and  E.  E.  edifice,  pos- 
sessing a  remarkable  North  Porch.  The  lack  of  a  central  tower 
is,  however,  severely  felt.  The  screen  separating  the  nave  and 
choir  is  a  fine  Perp.  work  of  1502.  Under  the  W.  tower  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  poet  Shelley  (d.  1822).  Some  of  the  other  monuments, 
the  Lady  Chapel ,  and  the  Salisbury  Chapel ,  built  by  Margaret , 
Countess  of  Salisbury,  about  1535,  are  also  interesting.  —  Near 
the  river  Avon  is  Constable  House,  a  Norman  building;  and  in 
the  grounds  of  the  hotel  are  the  very  scanty  remains  of  an  old  Castle. 
—  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  is  *Hengistbury  Head,  which  commands  a 
magnificent  sea-view,  including  the  Isle  of  Wight. 

28  M.  Pokesdown  is  the  station  for  Boscombe,  an  E.  suburb  of 
Bournemouth,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  Boscombe  Chine.  Here 
is  situated  the  house  of  Lady  Shelley,  widow  of  the  poet's  son  (see 
above).  —  SO'/o  ^^'  Bournemouth  East;  34  M.  Bournemouth  West. 

Bournemouth.  —  Hotels.  "^Royai.  Bath,  East  CliQ',  with  good  sea 
view,  R.  &  A.  from  bs.  Qd.,  B.  '2s.,  D.  5s.  Hd.  ;  Highcliffe,  West  Cliff; 
Mont  Dore,  a  combination  of  hotel,  sanatorium,  and  bath-house,  in  the 
style  of  the  Mont  Dore  of  Auvergne-,  Royal  Exeter  (Newlyn's),  Exeter 
Park,  pens.  8«.,  at  Easter  lOs. ;  Stewart's,  Richmond  Hill;  METRoroLE, 
R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  bs.;  Grand,  East  ClitY;  Pembroke;  Lansdowne,  East 
Cliff;  Bellevue,  opposite  the  Pier;  Bourne  Hall;  Imperial;  Central; 
Branksome  Temperance;  Waverley  Temperance.  —  Htdropathic,  West 
Cliff.  —  At  Boscombe,  2  M.  to  the  E.:  Boscombe  Chine,  R.  &  A.  from  bs., 
B.  is.  Bti.,  D.  bs. ;  Blklix<;tun.  —  Numerous  Boarding  Houses  (6-8s.  per  day) 
and  Lodgings.  —  Lockyer^s  Restaurant,  Quadrant. 

Steamers  ply  in  summer  from  Bournemouth  to  Stcanage,  Poole,  the 
Isle  of  Wight,  Portsmouth,  Weijinouth,  etc. 

Excursion  Brakes  run  to  (6V2  M.)  Heron  Court,  (18  M.)  Corfe  Castle,  the 
Aew  Forest  (ca.  20  M.),  (19  M.)  Blandford,  etc. 

Music.     Bands    perform  daily  on  the  Pier  and  in  the  Public  Gardens. 


96     Route  13.  WIMBORNE.         Frcm  Southampton 

Bournemouth^  a  fashionable  watering-place  and  winter-resort 
of  recent  growth,  on  Poole  Bay,  with  37,781  inhab.,  owes  much  of 
its  salubrity  to  the  luxuriant  pine-woods  in  which  it  is  embosomed. 
It  lies  mainly  on  two  small  hills,  flanking  the  sheltered  valley  of 
the  Bourne,  the  banks  of  which  are  laid  out  as  public  gardens. 
The  sandy  beach  affords  excellent  bathing,  and  there  are  two  Piers, 
each  about  800  ft.  long.  William  Godwin,  Mary  Wollstonecraft,  and 
Mary  Shelley  are  buried  in  the  churchyard  of  St.  Peter's. 

Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  along  the  coast  in  both  directions. 
Among  the  chief  features  of  interest  are  the  ^Chines'  (comp. 
p.  68)  in  the  sandstone  cliffs  (particularly  to  the  W.),  the  most 
picturesque  being  Boscombc  Chine  (2  M.  to  the  E.},  Alum  Chine, 
(3  M.)  *Branksome  Chine,  and  Durley  Chine.  Rhododendrons  grow 
very  luxuriantly  in  and  about  Bournemouth  ;  and  at  the  blossoming 
season  [June)  a  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  magnificent  plantations 
of  these  shrubs  at  (6V2  M.)  Heron  Court  (Earl  of  Malmesbury). 

From  Bournemouth  to  Poole  and  Broadstone  (with  direct  connection 
with  tlie  Midlands  and  North  of  England),  see  below. 

Through  -  trains  perform  the  direct  journey  from  London  (Waterloo) 
to  Bournemouth  East  in  2V2-3Vi  hrs,  (fares  18s.,  Us.  3d.,  9s.). 


Beyond  Brockenhurst  (p,  95)  the  Dokchester  Line  traverses 
the  S.  margin  of  the  New  Forest,  passing  (19  M.)  Holmesley  and 
reaching  the  extremity  of  the  Forest  at  (251/2  M/)  Eingwood  (White 
Hart;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of  a  branch -line  to 
(8  M.)  ChristchuTch  (p.  96).  About  2  M.  to  the  N.  is  Somerley, 
the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Normanton,  with  a  good  collection  of  paint- 
ings. The  train  then  crosses  the  Avon  and  enters  Dorsetshire.  At 
(30  M.)  West  Moors  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the  N.  to  Salis- 
bury (p.  93).  —  At  (35  M.)  Wimborne  (Crown;  King's  Head) 
is  a  fine  old  *Minster  or  collegiate  church,  illustrating  all  the 
styles  from  Norman  to  Perp.,  and  possessing  a  perhaps  unique 
library,  in  which  the  volumes  are  still  chained  to  the  shelves. 
Near  Wimborne  are  Cranbome  Manor,  a  seat  of  the  Marquis  of 
Salisbury,  and  Camford  Manor  (Lord  Wimborne),  containing  Assyr- 
ian antiquities  brought  home  by  Sir  A.  H.  Layard.  The  railway 
forks  here  ,  the  right  branch  leading  into  Somerset  (Bath  ,  Wells), 
while  our  line  keeps  to  the  left.  —  41  M.  Broadstone  Junction  is 
the  diverging  point  of  a  short  line  to  (51/2  j^I-)  Poole  (Antelope; 
London),  a  brisk  little  seaport,  with  15,438  inhab.  and  a  good  har- 
bour. Parkstone,  and  10  M.  Bournemouth  West  (p.  95). —  The  train 
then  skirts  Poole  Harbour  to  [ASM.')  Hamworthy  Junction  {^for  Ham- 
worthy;  3  ^  M.)  and  (46  M.)  Wareham  (Red  Lion  ;  Bear),  an  ancient 
and  decayed  town  with  earthen  ramparts. 

Wareham  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (6  M.)  Cor/e  Castle  and 
(11  M.)  Swanage.  —  *Corfe  Castle,  erected  on  the  Purbeck  Downs  soon 
after  the  Norman  Conquest,  occupies  the  site  of  the  hunting-lodge  where 
Edward  the  Martyr  was  assassinated  in  979.  It  was  a  frequent  residence 
of  King  John,    and   in   the    Civil  War   was   stoutly   defended   against   the 


to  Weymouth.  DORCHESTER.  13.  Route.     97 

Parliamentarians  by  Lady  Bankes.  —  Swanage  (Royal  Victoria^  well  spoken 
of;  Ship)  is  a  pleasant  little  watering-place  with  a  good  beach  and  a 
golf-course. 

Purbeck  Island,  the  peninsula  on  which  both  these  places  lie,  is  famous 
for  its  potter's  clay  and  a  stone  resemblino;  marble.  The  coast  scenery  is 
interesting  (Tilly  Whim^  St.  Alban's  Head,  Studland,  with  its  tiny  Norman 
church,  etc.). 

The  train  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Frome.  Near  (51  M.) 
Wool  are  the  ruins  of  Bindon  Abbey  (12th  cent.),  and  ahout  3  M. 
to  the  S.  is  Lulworth  Castle  (16th  cent.).    5572  ^1-  Moreton. 

6O72  ^1-  Dorchester  (King's  Arms ;  Antelo'pe)^  the  county-town 
of  Dorsetshire,  with  7946  inhab.,  was  the  Durnovaria  of  the  Ro- 
mans. St.  Peter  s  Church  contains  some  interesting  monuments.  The 
chair  used  by  Judge  Jeffreys  during  the  'Bloody  Assize'  (1685)  is 
preserved  in  the  Town  Hall.  The  Dorset  Museum  contains  one  of  the 
best  provincial  collections  of  antiquities  in  England.  A  statue,  by 
Roscoe  Mullins,  of  the  Rev.  Wm.  Barnes  (1800-86),  author  of 
poems  in  the  Dorset  dialect,  stands  in  St.  Peter's  Churchyard. 

To  the  S.  of  Dorchester  are  the  Maiimhury  Rings,  the  most  perfect 
Roman  amphitheatre  in  England,  220  ft.  long  and  165  ft.  wide.  In  the 
neighbourhood  are  Poundbury  and  Maiden  Castle,  two  large  entrenched 
camps,  the  first  of  doubtful  origin,  the  second  almost  certainly  British. 

From  Dorchester  a  branch  -  railway  runs  to  Yeovil  (p.  102),  passing 
Maiden  Newton,  the  junction  for  a  line  to  Bridport,  a  small  sea-port  (6600 
inhab.),  with  a  Perp.  church.  An  omnibus  plies  daily  from  Bridport  to 
(12  M.)  Crewkerne  (p.  102)  via  (6  M.)  Beaminster,  an  ancient  town  on  the 
Brit.,  with  a  15th  cent,  church.  Kear  Beaminster  is  Parnham  Home,  built 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.,  containing  several  interesting  portraits. 

68  M.  Weymouth  (Burdon ;  Gloucester ;  Royal ;  Victoria ;  Great 
Western;  Marine;  Crown),  a  thriving  watering-place  with  13,866 
inhab.,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wey,  in  the  centre  of  a  beautiful 
bay.  It  was  a  favourite  resort  of  George  III.  The  bay  is  admirably 
adapted  for  bathing  and  for  boating.  The  Nothe ,  a  promontory 
dividing  the  town  into  two  parts,  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 

Excursions  may  be  made  by  steamer  from  Weymouth  to  Lulworth 
Cove,  Swanage,  Bournemouth,  Lyme  Regis,  etc.,  and  on  land  to  the  Fort 
(fine  view),  Osmington  (with  an  equestrian  figure  of  George  III.  cut  in  the 
chalk),  Corfe  Castle  (p.  96),  and  to  Abbotsbury  (branch  -  railway  in  Vz  hr.), 
with  a  ruined  monastery   and  a  large  swannery. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood,  however,  is  Portland 
Island,  4  M.  to  the  S.  (branch-railway,  fares  6d.,  Xd.,  3d.),  with  its  con- 
vict-prison (1600  inmates),  its  quarries,  and  its  Breakwaters.  The  last, 
consisting  of  two  huge  stone  causeways  (the  larger  P/*  M.  long  and  100  ft. 
broad),  enclosing  an  immense  harbour  of  refuge,  were  constructed  by  con- 
vict labour  in  1847-72,  contain  6,(XX),000  tons  of  stone,  and  cost"  more 
than  1,000,000/.  Portland  Castle  was  built  by  Henry  VIII.  Portland  Is- 
land, the  S.  point  of  which  is  called  the  Portland  Bill,  is  really  a  penin- 
sula, united  with  the  mainland  by  a  curious  strip  of  shingle  called  the 
Chesil  Bank,  extending  to  (10  M.)  Abbotsbury,  and  full  of  interest  for  the 
geologist  (see  Damon's  'Geology  of  Weymouth  and  Portland').  The  chief 
villages  in  the  island  are  Chesilton  (Royal  Victoria),  the  terminus  of  the 
railway,  and  Castleton  (Royal  Breakwater  Hotel).  —  From  Weymouth  to 
the  (Jhannel  Islands,  see  R.  12. 

From  London  Weymouth  is  reached  either  by  the  G.  W.  R.  (160  M.) 
or  the  L.  S.  W.  R.  (145  M.)  in  33,4-6  hrs.  (fares  235.  lOd.,  I65.,  11<.  lid.). 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  7 


98 


14.  From  London  to  Salisbury  and  Exeter. 


1711/2  M.  Eailwat  (Sonth  Western,  from  Waterloo)  in  472-6'/*  trs.  (fares 
285.  6d..  18s.,  14s.  31/2^.).  From  London  to  Salisbury  (831/2  M.)  in  2-3  hrs. 
(fares  14s.,  8s.  9d.,  6s.  llV2d.):  from  Salisbury  to  Exeter  (871/2  M.)  in  2- 
31/2  lirs.  (fares  14s.  Qd.,  9s.  2d.,  7s.  SVod.).  —  Exeter  may  also  be  reacted 
by  tbe  Great  Western  Railway  via  Taunton  (194  M.,  in  41/4-6V4  brs. ;  fares 
as  above;  comp.  E.  16).  Corridor  coacbes,  with  lavatory  accommodation 
in    all  classes,  are  attached  to  the  best  trains. 

From  London  to  (48  M.)  Basingstoke,  see  R.  11.  — About  3  M. 
farther  on,  the  Winchester  line  diverges  to  the  left.  59  M.  Whit- 
church (White  Hart).  About  2  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  paper  manufactory 
of  the  Bank  of  England  ,  and  6  M.  to  the  N.  is  Kingsclere ,  with 
training-stables  for  race-horses.  • —  60  M.  Hurstbourne,  the  station 
for  Hurstbourne  Priors,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Portsmouth,  sur- 
rounded by  a  picturesque  park. 

66  M.  Andover  (Star  c^-  Garter;  White  Hart),  an  agricultural 
town  -with  5852  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Savernake  and 
Swindon  Toifn(X.)  and  Ramsey  (S. ;  for  Southampton).  About  1 1/9  ^1' 
to  the  S.  is  Bury  Hill,  with  an  extensive  and  well-defined  British 
camp  (view).  —  Near  {jl^j-j  M.)  Grately  rises  *QuarleyHill,  crown- 
ed with  an  ancient  and  extensive  entrenchment,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view.  A  little  beyond  (78 M.)  Porion  (right)  is  seen  the  forti- 
fied hill  of  Old  Sarum  (comp.  p.  100). 

831/2  M.  Salisbury.  —  Hotels.  White  Hart,  St.  John's  St.,  R. 
&  A.  4s.  6c?. ;  Red  Lion,  Cathedral,  Milford  St. ;  Kew  County  Hotel,  board 
from  3?.  35.  per  week;  Angel,  near  the  station,  R.  &  A,  4s.;  Crown,  High  St. 
and  Crane  St.,  R.,  A.,  &.  B.  from  4s,  Qd.,  board  from  7s.  6c?.,  well  spoken 
of;  Three  Swans,  Winchester  St.  —  Eail.  Rfrat.  Rooms. 

Salisbury,  the  county-town  of  Wiltshire,  with  15,533  inhab., 
is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  three  small  rivers 
Wiley,  Avon,  and  Bourne.  It  owes  its  existence  to  the  trans- 
ference of  the  episcopal  see  from  Old  Sarum  to  this  site  (1220), 
and  has  had  a  peaceful  and  comparatively  uneventful  history. 

The  lofty  spire  of  the  Cathedral  dominates  all  views  of  the 
town.  We  may  enter  the  cathedral-precincts  by  St.  Anne's  Gate, 
near  the  White  Hart  Hotel,  or  by  the  similar  archway  at  the  end 
of  High  St.  The  beautiful  ^Close  consists  of  a  large  expanse  of 
velvety  sward,  shaded  by  lofty  trees  and  affording  an  unimpeded 
view  of  the  most  graceful  and  symmetrical  of  English  cathedrals. 
The  old  Campanile,  pulled  down  by  Wyatt  (see  p.  99),  stood  at  the 
N.W.  corner  of  the  Close.  Another  old  archway  (Harnham  Gate)  is 
still  standing  at  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  Close. 

*Salisbury  Cathedral,  a  splendid  example  of  pure  Early  English, 
enjoyed  the  rare  advantage  of  having  been  begun  and  finished 
within  a  period  of  forty  years  (1220-1260),  and  is  remarkable 
for  the  uniformity ,  harmony,  and  perspicuity  of  its  construction. 
Mr.  Fergusson  has  well  pointed  out  that  there  is  scarcely  a  trace  of 
foreign  influence  in  the  building,  the  square  E.  end  in  particular 
taking  the  place  of  the  apse  of  the  Norman  churches  and  fixing  the 


SALISBURY.  U.  Route.     99 

future  character  of  English  choirs;  and  he  adds  that  it  is  'one  of 
the  best  proportioned  and,  at  the  same  time,  most  poetic  designs 
of  the  Middle  Ages'  ('History  of  Architecture',  Vol.  ii). 

The  various  parts  of  the  building  all  unite  to  lead  the  eye  to 
the  central  point,  the  richly-adorned  *Spire  (1250),  which  is  the 
loftiest  in  England  (406  ft.).  The  ground-plan  of  the  Cathedral 
is  cruciform,  with  two  sets  of  transepts.  The  sculptures  on  the 
W.  front  were  nearly  all  destroyed  by  the  Puritans,  but  have  been 
replaced.  The  chief  dimensions  of  the  Cathedral  are  as  follows : 
length  473  ft.,  breadth  across  the  W.  transepts  230  ft.,  breadth  of 
nave  and  aisles  99  ft.,  height  of  nave  81  ft.  The  usual  entrance  is 
by  the  N.  Porch,  which  is  open  9-6  in  summer,  9.30-4  in  winter; 
daily  services  at  7.30  a.  m.,  10  a.  m.,  and  4p.m.  (3  p.m.  in  summer). 

The  '-Interior  is  finely  proportioned  and  impressive,  but  produces  a 
somewhat  cold  and  bare  effect,  due  in  part  to  the  want  of  stained  ?lass 
and  in  part  to  the  ruthless  manner  in  which  Wt/ait  swept  away  screens, 
monuments,  and  chapels  in  his  'restoration'  at  the  close  of  last  century. 
The  restoration  carried  out  more  recently  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  was  for- 
tunately characterised  by  a  more  modest  and  judicious  spirit.  The 
columns  throughout  are  adorned  with  slender  shafts  of  Purbeck  marble. 
It  is  popularly  said  that  the  cathedral  contains  as  many  pillars,  windows, 
and  doorways  respectively,  as  the  year  contains  hours,  days,  and  months. 
The  Nave,  consisting  of  ten  bays,  is  somewhat  narrow  in  proportion 
to  its  heijiht.  It  contains  several  monuments,  few,  however,  left  in  their 
original  positions.  Among  the  most  interesting  are  the  following  (begin- 
ning at  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  and  returning  by  the  N.  aisle) : 
Bishop  Herman  (?  11th  cent.),  believed  to  be  the  oldest  monument  in  the 
church;  tombstones  of  two  other  Bishops  of  Old  Sarum  (see  p.  100;  ll-12th 
cent.);  Robert,  Lord  Hungerford  (d.  1459),  with  effigy  in  alabaster;  Lord 
Stourton  (d.  1556),  with  three  apertures  on  each  side,  supposed  to  represent 
the  six  sources  of  the  river  Stour;  William  Longespie  (d.  1226),  first  Earl  of 
Salisbury,  son  of  Henry  II.  and  Fair  Rosamond,  one  of  the  founders  of 
the  Cathedral,  with  effigy  in  marble;  *<Sir  JoTin  Cheynei/  (d.  1509;  N.  aisle), 
the  standard-bearer  of  Henry  VII.  at  Bosworth,  with  a  fine  alabaster  effigy; 
Sir  John  de  Muntaaite  (d.  1389);  "William  Longespee.  2nd  Earl  of  Salisbury, 
killed  in  the  Holy  Land  in  1250;  tomb  of  a  '"Bop  Bis/iop\  i.e.  a  choir-boy 
elected  as  bishop,  according  to  an  old  custom,  on  St.  Nicholas  Day  (Dec.  6th) 
and  bearing  the  title  till  Holy  Innocents'  Day  (Dec.  28th).  The  modern 
Pulpit  is  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  The  •Stained  Glass  in  the  W.  window  is 
from  Dijon. —  In  the  N.W.  Tkaxsept  are  three  monuments  by  Flaxman, 

The  Choir  (adm.  6c;.)  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  modern  metal 
screen  by  Skidmore.  The  vaulting  has  been  coloured  in  accordance  with 
the  index  afforded  by  a  few  traces  of  the  original  decorations.  The 
stalls  are  a  combiTiation  of  work  of  various  dates,  including  perhaps  some 
of  the  original  work;  the  pulpit  and  reredos  are  modern.  On  the  N.  side 
of  the  choir  is  the  fine  Perpendicular  Chantry  of  Bishop  And  ley  (1620),  and 
on  the  S.  the  Hungerford  Chantru,  a  good  example  of  15th  cent,  iron-work 
(1430).  —  The  E.  extremity  of  the  Cathedral  is  occupied  by  the  'Ladt 
Chapel,  with  five  lancets  filled  with  modern  stained  glass.  Adjacent,  at 
the  E.  end  of  the  N.  choir  aisle,  is  the  monument  of  Sir  Thomas  Gorges 
(d.  1610)  and  his  wife  (d.  1635),  the  builders  of  Longford  Castle  (p.  101). 
Opposite,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  choir  aisle  is  a  monument  to  the  £arl 
of  Hertford  and  his  wife.  Between  this  and  the  Lady  Chapel  is  a  slab 
commemorating  St.  Osmvnd  (d.  1099),  whose  shrine  stood  in  the  Lady  Chapel. 
—  The  N.  E.  Tkansept  contains  the  interesting  and  curious  brass  of  Bishop 
Wyville  {d.  1315).  From  the  S.E.  Transept,  containing  the  Chantry  of  Bp. 
Bridport  (d.  1262)  and  a  bust  of  Ric/iard  Jef  tries  (1848-87),  author  of  the 
'Gamekeeper  at  Home',  a  door  leads  to  the  Vestkt  and  Muniment  Room. 

7* 


100    Route  14.  SALISBURY.  From  London 

We  enter  the  beautiful  *Cloistees,  with  their  smooth  green  sward  and 
two  old  cedars ,  from  the  S.  W.  Transept.  They  are  of  somewhat  later 
date  than  the  body  of  the  Cathedral  and  are  in  excellent  preservation. 
Over  the  E.  walk  is  the  Library,  containing  interesting  MSS.  (9-14th  cent.) 
and  rare  books.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  Cloisters  is  the  'Chapter  House, 
an  octagonal  building  of  the  end  of  the  13th  cent.  (52  ft.  high).  It  is 
adorned  with  quaint  carvings,  but  those  on  the  'Doorway  by  which  it 
is  entered  are  finer. 

Fine  view  from  the  battlements  of  the  Tower,  212  ft.  above  the  ground 
tentr.  from  the  Great  Transept).  The  W.  piers  of  the  tower  have  settled 
a  little,  and  the  apex  of  the  spire  is  2  ft.  out  of  the  perpendicular. 

Opposite  the  W.  front  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Deanery,  to  the  S. 
of  -which  is  the  so-called  ^King's  House\  an  interesting  mansion  of 
the  14-15th  cent,  with  a  projecting  porch,  now  used  as  a  training- 
college  for  school-mistresses.  To  the  N.  of  the  Deanery  is  another 
dwelling  of  the  15th  cent,  called  the  ^King's  Wardrobe'.  —  A  gate 
at  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  Cathedral  leads  into  the  lovely  grounds 
of  the  *Bishop"s  Palace,  an  irregular  building  of  various  dates. 

Among  the  most  interesting  secular  buildings  is  the  Halle  of  John 
Halle,  with  a  fine  timber  front,  in  Canal  St.,  built  as  a  dwelling 
by  a  rich  wool-merchant  in  1470,  restored  in  1834,  and  now  used 
as  a  shop.  Not  far  off  is  the  late-Gothic  Poultry  Cross,  also  restored. 

In  St.  Ann's  St.,  leading  to  the  E.  from  the  "White  Hart  Hotel, 
is  the  Salisbury  and  South  Wilts  Museum  (open  free  daily,  except 
Mon.  &  Frid,,  12-5,  on  Wed.  also  6-9,  to  strangers  at  other  times 
also),  containing  geological,  ornithological,  and  antiquarian  collec- 
tions. Attached  to  it  is  the  Blackmore  Museum,  the  chief  feature  of 
which  is  a  collection  of  American  antiquities.  ■ —  In  St.  John's  St., 
below  the  White  Hart,  is  the  old  Kings  Arms,  the  secret  rendezvous 
of  the  Royalists  after  the  battle  of  Worcester.  In  the  market-place 
are  statues  of  Lord  Herbert  o/"  Lea  (Sidney  Herbert;  1810-61),  M.  P. 
for  S.  Wilts,  and  of  Prof.  Fawcett  (1833-84),  a  native  of  Salisbury. 

Philip  Massinger^  the  dramatist  (d.  1640),  Joseph  Addison  (d.  1719),  and 
Henry  Fielding,  the  novelist  (d.  1754),  all  resided  at  Salisbury.  The  'Vicar 
of  Wakefield',  by  Oliver  Goldsmith  (d.  1T74),  issued  from  the  press  here. 

Environs.  Interesting  excursion  to  Stonehenge,  lying  9  M.  to  the  N.,  in 
the  midst  oi  Salisbury  Plain,  an  undulating  tract,  with  numerous  barrows  and 
tumuli  (carriage  there  and  back,  with  one  horse  13-15«.,  with  two  horses 
21s.,  and  fee;  excursion-brakes  sometimes  make  the  trip  in  summer,  fare 55.). 
The  road  usually  selected  leads  by  (1  31.)  Old  Sarum,  the  largest  entrenched 
camp  in  the  kingdom,  once  the  site  of  a  Roman  fort,  and  afterwards  of  a 
Saxon  town.  It  stands  on  a  high  mound  affording  an  admirable  view  of 
Salisbury.  The  cathedral,  removed  to  Salisbury  in  1258,  originally  stood 
here,  and  a  fragment  of  the  old  building  still  remains.  The  'Ordinal  of 
Offices  for  the  Use  of  Sarum'  became  the  ritual  of  all  S.  England.  At  the 
neighbouring  village  of  Stratford  is  a  house  once  inhabited  by  the  elder 
Pitt,  who  was  first  returned  to  parliament  in  1735  as  member  for  the 
rotten  borough  of  Old  Sarum.  8M.  Amesbury  (George),  prettily  situated  in 
a  slight  depression  on  the  Avon.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the  pictur- 
esque seat  of  Amesbury  Abbey,  so  named  from  a  former  religious  house,  and 
Vespasian's  Camp,  of  British  origin,  but  afterwards  turned  to  account  by  the 
Romans.  The  old  abbey-church  deserves  a  visit.  Gay  wrote  the  'Beggar's 
Opera'  at  Amesbury  Abbey,  when  on  a  visit  to  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Queensberry.  —  About  IV2  M.  to  the  W.  lies  *Stonehenge  (called  by  the 
Saxons  Stanhengest,  i.  e.  'hanging  stones' ;  formerly  Choir  Gaur  or  C6r  Gawr, 


to  Exeter.  WILTON.  U.  Route.    10 1 

Giant's  circle  or  temple) ,  the  most  imposing  megalolithic  monument  in 
Britain.  When  complete  it  seems  to  have  consisted  of  two  concentric 
circles  enclosing  two  ellipses.  Of  the  outer  circle,  about  100  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, 17  stones  are  still  standing,  and  6  of  the  huge  flat  cap-stones 
remain  in  position.  The  inner  circle,  about  9  ft.  distant,  was  formed 
of  smaller  and  more  irregular  blocks.  Within  this  again  is  a  horse-shoe 
ellipse,  open  on  the  N.E.,  originally  formed  of  five  'trilithons'  or  groups 
of  two  upright  and  one  transverse  block,  of  which  only  two  are  now  per- 
fect. The  largest  had  uprights  2272  ft.  in  heijfht  and  a  transverse  .«lab 
31/2  ft.  thick.  One  of  the  uprights  lies  broken  on  the  ''Altar- Stone''.  The 
innermost  ellipse  consists  of  smaller  stones,  like  the  inner  circle,  and  also 
like  that  circle  probably  hafl  no  cap-stones.  The  larger  circle  and  ellipse 
are  formed  of  'Sarsen'  sandstone;  the  others  (perhaps  earlier  in  datej  are 
of  'blue  stones',  a  kind  of  granite.  The  sacred  road  leading  to  the  circles 
can  be  traced  by  its  banks  of  earth.  The  isolated  stone  at  some  distance 
from  the  rest  is  known  as  the  'Friar's  Heel'.  The  origin  and  purpose  of 
Stonehenge  are  still  unknown  (comp.  p.  Ixii).  'It  has  been  attributed', 
says  Chumhers'^s  Encyclopaedia^  'to  the  Phoenicians,  the  Belgae,  the  Druids, 
the  Saxons,  and  the  Danes.  It  has  been  called  a  temple  of  the  sun,  and 
of  serpent-worship ,  a  shrine  of  Buddha,  a  planetarium,  a  gigantic  gallows 
on  which  defeated  British  leaders  were  solemnly  hung  in  honour  of  Woden, 
a  Gilgal  where  the  national  army  met  and  leaders  were  buried,  and  a 
calendar  in  stone  for  the  measurement  of  the  solar  year.'  Now  it  is  most 
generally  classed  as  a  sepulchral  stone-circle,  perhaps  exceptionally  devel- 
oped under  some  religious  influence,  and  is  referred  to  the  Bronze  Age.  — 
We  may  return  to  Salisbury  through  the  valley  of  iheAvon,  passing  (2V2  M.) 
Great  Durnford ,  with  the  British  camp  of  Oghury  Hill,  and  (272  M.)  Heale 
House,  where  Charles  II.  spent  some  days  after  the  Battle  of  Worcester  (1651). 

Wilton  (Pembroke  Arms) ,  a  small  town  with  2120  inhab.  and  im- 
portant carpet-manufactories,  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Salisbury,  possesses  a 
handsome  modern  'Church,  in  the  Lombard  style,  elaborately  embel- 
lished with  marble.  —  Near  the  town  stands  Wilton  House  (shown  on 
Wed.,  10-4;  fee  I5.),  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  famed  for  its 
valuable  Greek  and  Roman  Sculptures,  and  its  'Collection  of  pictures  by 
Van  Dyck,  Holbein,  Diirer,  Poussin,  Reynolds,  and  other  masters.  The 
drawing-room  is  adorned  with  paintings  of  scenes  from  Sir  Philip  Sid- 
ney's 'Arcadia',  which  was  written  here.  The  grounds  are  also  worth 
seeing.  The  Halian  Garden  contains  a  pavilion  designed  by  Holbein.  —  The 
road  to  Wilton  passes  (I72M.)  Bemerlon,  where  George  Herbert  was  rector 
from  1630  to  his  death  in  1635. 

*Longford  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Radnor,  lies  on  the  Avon, 
3  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Salisbury.  The  *Collection  of  pictures  (shown  on 
Tues.  and  Frid.)  is  fine,  and  there  is  also  an  exquisite  specimen  of  metal- 
work  in  the  shape  of  a  steel  chair  presented  by  the  town  of  Augsburg  to 
Emp.  Rudolf  II.  in  1574. 

From  Salisbury  to  Bath,  see  p.  113. 

Beyond  Salisbury  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel,  450  yds. 
long.  86  M.  Wilton,  see  ahove ;  the  church-tower  is  visible  to 
the  left.  —  92  M.  Dinton  ( Wyndham  Arms),  the  birthplace  of 
the  first  Lord  Clarendon  (1609-1674).  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  W.  of 
(96  M.)  Tisbury  (Benett  Arms)  is  Wardour  Castle,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Arundell,  with  a  fine  collection  of  paintings  and  antiquities  (daily, 
11-4).  —  101^2  ^1-  Semley,  the  station  for  Hindon  and  Shaftesbury. 

Near  Eindon,  a  small  town  3  M.  to  the  N.,  is  Fonthill  Abbey,  where 
Beckford,  the  author  of  'Vathek',  lived  in  complete  seclusion;  the  princely 
mansion  he  erected  has  given  place  to  a  less  pretentious  structure.  — 
Shaftesbury  (Grosvenor  Arms),  with  2122  inhab.,  lies  3  M.  to  the  S.  (omn. 
Is.)  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  England.  A  nunnery 
was  founded  here  by  King  Alfred  in  880.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  St. 
Giles's,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Shaftesbury.    —  About  10  M.  to  the  S.  of 


]  02   Route  14.  YEOVIL.  From  London 

Semley,  in  Cranhorne  Chase ^  lies  Rushmove^  the  seat  of  the  well-known 
archaeologist,  Gen.  Pitt-Rivers.  Abont  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  are  King  John's 
'House,  traditionally  a  hunting-seat  of  King  John,  with  a  small  collection 
of  paintings  (including  some  Grseco-Egyptian  mummy-portraits  from  the 
Fayiim),  some  13th  cent,  windows,  etc.  (shown  to  visitors),  and  the  Wych 
Elm  (in  the  Larmer  Grounds;  band  on  Sun.,  3-5  p.m.).  At  Farnham,  2  M. 
to  the  S.E.,  is  an  interesting  Museum  illustrating  the  history  of  pottery, 
agricultural  implements,  etc. ;  peasants'  handicrafts  from  different  countries  ; 
upwards  of  40  models  of  excavations  conducted  by  Gen.  Pitt-Rivers  in  the 
neighbourhood.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  sites  of  the  Romano-British  villages 
of  Woodcuts,  Rotherly,  and  the  ancient  Vindogladia  {in  Bokerly  Dyke;  6  M. 
from  the  museum).  Pleasant  drives  and  walks  in  Rushmore  Park  and  the 
Chase  Wood  (apply  at  the  lodges). 

Beyond  (105  M.)  Gillingham^V^^Rmx),  with  large  "bacon-curing 
factories,  we  pass  through  a  tunnel  715  yds.  long.  —  112  M.  Temple- 
combe  Junction  (Royal  Hotel ;  Rfmt.  Rooms),  where  lines  diverge 
to  Bath  and  Wells  (see  p.  113)  and  to  Burnham  on  the  N.W., 
and  to  Wimborne  (p.  96),  Broadstone  (p.  96),  and  Bournemouth 
(p.  95)  on  the  S.  —  118  M.  Sherborne  (*Digby;  Antelope),  with 
5690  inhah.,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Yeo.  In  the  8th  cent,  it 
became  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  transferred  to  Old  Sarum  in  1078. 

The  old  "Minstev  is  a  fine  Xorman  structure,  afterwards  converted  into 
the  Perp.  style  and  recently  restored.  The  vaulting  and  the  choir  are 
specially  noteworthy.  The  Grammar  School  dates  from  about  1550.  Sher- 
borne Castle,  part  of  which  was  built  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  is  situated 
in  a  beautiful  park,  open  to  the  public.  Near  it  are  the  remains  of  the 
old  castle  (12th  cent.). 

123 M.  Yeovil  Junction,  for  (3  M.)  Yeovil  (Three  Choughs;  Mer- 
maid), with  9648  inhab.,  situated  in  a  pretty  and  diversified  district. 
Fine  Perp.  church.  Yeovil  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Dorchester 
(p.  97),  Durston  (for  Taunton,  p.  127),   and  Chippenham  (p.  109). 

About  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  (7  M.)  Sparkford ,  the  second  station,  on  the 
Chippenham  line,  is  Cadhriry  Castle,  an  entrenched  British  camp  80  acres 
in  area,  which  contests  with  Camelford  (p.  154)  the  honour  of  being  the 
Arthurian  Camelot.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Sparkford  lies  the  pretty 
village  of  Queen  Camel  (Bell).  —  At  Keinton  Mandeville,  6  M.  to  the  W.  of 
(12  M.)  Castle  Gary,  the  third  station,  Sir  Henry  Irving  was  born  in  183S. 

125  M,  Sutton  Bingham;  131V2  M.  Creu-fcerne  (George),  with 
a  Perp.  church  (15th  cent.)  with  a  fine  W.  front.  Omnibus  to 
Beaminster  and  Bridport,  see  p.  97.  —  Just  short  of  (139^/2  M.) 
Chard  Junction,  whence  a  branch  runs  to  (3  M.)  Chard  (George), 
we  see  to  the  left  *Ford  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  foundation  of  the 
12th  cent.,  now  a  private  mansion. 

From  the  joint  station  at  Chard  a  branch  of  the  G.  W.R.  runs  via 
Ilminster  (George),  with  a  Perp.  church  containing  brasses  to  the  founders 
of  Wadham  College  at  Oxford,  to  (15  M.)  Taunton,  see  p.  127. 

1441/2  M.  Axminsfcr  (George  ;  Golden  Lion),  formerly  noted  for 
its  carpets. 

From  Axminster  a  coach  runs  several  times  daily  to  (5  M.)  Lyme 
Regis  (Cups;  Lion),  a  picturesquely-situated  seaport  (2365  inhab.),  where 
the  Duke  of  Monmouth  landed  in  1B85.  It  is  now  frequented  as  a  bathing- 
place.  About  l'/2  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  pretty  village  of  Charmouih  (Coach 
&  Horses:  George),  visited  for  sea-bathing.  —  Whitchurch  Canonicorum,  3  M. 
to  the  K.E.  of  Charmouth,  has  an  interesting  church  (Norman  to  Perp.).  A 
visit  should  be  paid  to  the  '  Dowlands  Landslip  (6d.),  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Lyme. 


to  Exeter.  EXETER.  14.  Route.    103 

148  M.  Seaton  Junction^  where  carriages  are  changed  for  Colyton 
(Globe)  and  the  small  watering-place  of  C4M.)  5ea<on  (Beach ;  Clar- 
ence ;  Pole  Arms),  with  admirable  cricket  and  lawn-tennis  grounds. 

—  155  M.  //oniion  (Dolphin ;  Angel),  with  an  old  church;  the  fine 
lace  to  which  it  has  given  name,  first  introduced  by  Dutch  refugees, 
is  now  chiefly  made  at  the  neighbouring  villages.  —  159  M.  Sid- 
mouth  Junction. 

Branch-line  to  Sidmouth,  10  M.,  in  V'j  hr.  —  3  M.  Ottery  St.  Mary 
(King^s  Arms;  London,  well  spoken  of),  birthidace  of  S.  T.  Coleridge  (1772- 
1834),  has  a  fine  churcli  (a  reduced  copy  of  Exeter  Cathedral,  with  the  only 
other  pair  of  transeptal  towers  in  England;  see  p.  104).  Ottery  is  the 
'Clavering'  and  Exeter  the  'Chatteris'  of  Thackeray's  'Pendennis'.  —  From 
(5  M.)  Tipton  St.  JoTais  a  branch  runs  to  (6  31.)  Budltigh  Salterlon  (RoUe 
Arms),  a  charming  little  waterinfr-place  (omnibus  to  Exmouth,  see  p.  105). 

—  10  M.  Sidmouth  (Knowle ;  Bedford;  York)  is  a  favourite  watering-place, 
with   a   line   old   Gothic  church  and  an  esplanade. 

163  M.    WUmple.  —  167  M.  Broad  Clyst.  —  168Vo  M.  Pinhoe. 

1711/2  ^'  Exeter.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Queen  Street  Station^ 
near  the  centre  of  the  town,  for  the  South  Western  Railway;  2.  St. 
David's  Station,  to  theW.  of  the  town,  near  the  river,  for  the  Great  West- 
ern Railway,  but  connected  with  the  Queen  St.  Station ;  3.  St.  Thomas  $ 
Station,  a  second  station   of  the  G.  W.  R.,  on  the  other  side    of  the  Exe. 

—  The  hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  'RocGEMONT,  a  large  and  well-equipped  establishment,  close 
to  the  Queen  St.  Station,  R.  &  A.  4s.  (jd.,  table  d'hote  at  7  p.m.  55.; 
New  London,  High  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.  Qd..  D.  55.;  'Clarence,  quietly 
situated  in  the  Cathedral  Yard,  R.  &  A.  45.  Qd.,  D.  55.;  Queen's,  Queen  St.; 
Half  Moon,  High  Street;  Globe,  Cathedral  Yard ;  Bdde,  unpretending. — 
Mail.  Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Tramways  from  the  end  of  High  St.  to  St.  David's  Station  and  to  the 
suburbs.  —  Cabs.  Drive  within  the  town  I5. ;  to  Heavitree  Is.  Qd.  ;  to  Mt. 
Radford   I5.  Qd.  ;  beyond  the  municipal  boundaries  I5.  per  mile. 

Exeter,  the  capital  of  Devonshire  and  one  of  the  chief  places 
in  the  W.  of  England,  an  ancient  town  with  37,580  iuhab.,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Exe  and  forms  a  good 
starting-point  for  exploring  the  beautiful  scenery  of  S.  Devonshire. 

The  origin  of  Exeter  is  very  ancient.  The  Ifomans  Latinized  the 
name  of  the  British  town  of  Caerwisc  into  Isca,  while  the  modern  form 
is  derived  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  Exanceaster.  It  is  the  one  English  city 
in  which  it  is  certain  that  human  habitation  has  never  ceased  from  the 
Roman  period  to  the  present  day;  and  it  is  the  one  city  which  did  nt)t 
fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Anglo-Saxons  before  their  conversion  to  Chris- 
tianity. It  was  repeatedly  besieged  during  the  various  civil  contests  that 
have  raged  in  England,  and  was  the  scene  of  many  interesting  historical 
events.  William  of  Orange  remained  several  days  at  Exeter  after  his 
landing  at  Torbay,  and  was  joined  here  by  many  men  of  rank.  The 
episcopal  see  has  existed  here  since  1050,  when  it  was  transferred  from 
Crediton.     Comp.  Freeman's  'Exeter'  ('Historic  Towns  Series";  1887). 

Exeter  carries  on  a  considerable  foreign  trade,  and  vessels  of  150  tons 
can  ascend  to  the  town  by  means  of  a  ship-canal  begun  in  1564.  The 
chief  industrial  products  are  gloves  and  agricultural  machinery,  and  the 
city  is  the  principal  market  for  'Honiton  lace'  (see  above). 

Close  to  the  Queen  Street  Station  rise  the  ruins  of  Rougemont 
Castle,  founded  by  William  the  Conqueror  and  situated  witliin  the 
gionndisoi  Rougemont  Lodge.  The  castleismentionedin 'Richard  III.', 
iv.  2.   Part  of  the  hill  above  the  old  moat  has  been  converted  into  a 


104   Route  14.  EXETER.  Cathedral. 

promenade  called  the  Northemhay,  shaded  with  flue  elms  (views) 
and  containing  a  statue  of  Lord  Iddesleigh  (1818-86),  by  Boehm. 

From  the  station  Queen  St.  leads  to  the  S.  towards  High  St. 
and  the  centre  of  the  city.  In  it,  to  the  left,  is  the  Albert  Mem- 
orial Museum,  containing  Devonshire  antiquities,  a  cabinet  of  nat- 
ural history,  a  library,  and  a  school  of  art  (daily,  except  Thurs., 
free).    On  the  staircase  is  a  statue  of  Prince  Albert,  by  Stephens. 

On  reaching  the  High  St.  we  cross  it,  and  continuing  in  the 
same  direction  reach  the  Cathedral  Yard.  The  *Cathedral  (services 
at  10.30  and  3  ;  adm.  to  choir  Gd.),  though  comparatively  small  and 
unimposing,  is  in  virtue  of  its  details  one  of  the  most  admirable 
examples  in  England  of  the  Geometrical  Decorated  style.  The 
oldest  parts  of  the  present  building  are  the  massive  transeptal 
towers,  dating  from  the  early  part  of  the  12th  cent,  and  an  al- 
most unique  feature  in  English  churches  (see  p.  103).  The  rest  of 
the  cathedral  was  built  for  altered  from  Norman  to  Dec.)  between 
1280  and  1370,  mainly  from  the  designs  of  Bishop  Quivil  (d.  1291). 
The  elaborate  W.  facade  was  added  by  Bishop  Brantyngham  (1370- 
1394);  and  the  whole  was  lately  restored  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  One  of  the  chief  characteristics  of  the  ex- 
terior is  the  large  size  and  number  of  the  buttresses.  The  Cathedral 
is  408ft.  long,  76ft.  wide,  and  66  ft.  high;  width  across  transepts 
140  ft. ;   height  of  towers  166  ft.  —  We  enter  by  the  North  Porch. 

The  '^'Interior  (open  10  till  dusk)  is  distinguished  by  great  lightness  and 
elegance,  due  in  part  to  the  absence  of  a  central  tower,  though  the  full 
eSect  is  marred  by  the  obtrusive  position  of  the  organ  (17th  cent.)-  The 
long  unbroken  line  of  vaulting  is  particularly  fine.  The  perfect  symmetry 
of  the  building  has  often  been  pointed  out.  "'Not  only  does  aisle  answer 
to  aisle,  and  pillar  to  pillar,  and  window  tracery  to  window  tracery,  but 
also  chapel  to  chapel,  screen  to  screen,  and  even  tomb  to  tomb,  and 
canopy  to  canopy'  ("Architectural  History  of  Exeter  CathedraF,  by  Arch- 
deacon Freeman).  The  triforium  here  has  not  the  dignity  of  a  distinct 
story,  but  is  simply  a  low  blank  arcade.  Most  of  the  stained  glass  is  poor. 
The  '■'Minstrels''  Gallery  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Nave,  with  figures  of  angels 
playing  on  musical  instruments,  dates  from  1400.  On  the  S.  side  of  the 
great  W.  door  is  the  Chantry  of  Bishop  Grandisson  (d.  1369),  formerly  St. 
Radegiinde^s  Chapel;  and  at  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  another  small 
chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Edmund.  The  moAern  Pulpit,  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
nave,  is  a  memorial  of  Bishop  Patteson  (d.  1871),  the  missionary  bishop. 
The  N.  Teansept  contains  a  curious  clock  of  the  14th  cent,  and  a  statue 
of  Xorthcote,  the  painter  (d.  1831),  by  Chantrey.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Sylke 
Chantry  (16th  cent.)  and  St.  PauPs  Chapel.  Corresponding  to  the  latter  is 
Si.  John's  Chapel  in  the  S.  Traxsept,  opposite  the  entrance  to  which  is  the 
monument  of  Bugh  Courtenay,  Earl  of  Devon  (i.  1377).  From  the  corner  of 
this  transept  we  enter  the  narrow  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  beyond  which 
is  the  Perp.  Chapter  House  (magnilicent  ceiling),  containing  the  cathe- 
dral-library. 

The  Choir  is  separated  from  the  body  of  the  church  by  a  stone  screen 
of  the  first  half  of  the  14th  cent.,  lately  restored.  It  is  surrounded  by 
various  small  chapels  and  chantries,  and  contains  the  tombs  of  several 
bishops.  The  reredos  and  choir-stalls  are  modern,  but  the  misereres  (1194- 
1206)  and  sedilia  are  old,  and  also  the  beautiful  ''Episcopal  Throne  (1808- 
26).  Part  of  the  glass  in  the  Perp.  E.  window  is  ancient.  —  The  Lady 
Chapel  contains  the  interesting  monuments  of  Bishop  Simon  de  Apulia 
(d.  1223),  Bartholomeus  Iscanus  (d.  1184),  and  two  other  bishops. 


Excursions.  EXETER.  14.  Route.    105 

Visitors  should  ascend  the  N.  tower  (entr.  in  N.  transept)  for  the  sake 
of  the  view.    The  large  bell  here,  called  'Great  Peter',  weighs  6  tons. 

The  Cloisteks  have  been  rebuilt  on  the  old  foundations,  with  an 
attempted  reproduction  of  the  old  vaulting  and  tracery  (Dec). 

"Within  the  Cathedral  Close  are  the  Episcopal  Palace  and  the 
Deanery.  One  of  the  houses  on  theN.  side  has  a  good  hay-window, 
dating  from  the  end  of  the  15th  century.  The  pretty  grounds  of  the 
Palace  (shown  in  the  ahsence  of  the  family)  are  reached  hy  following 
the  road  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  (entr.  by  arched  door),  of  the  E. 
end  of  which  they  command  a  good  view. 

In  the  High  Street,  not  far  from  the  Cathedral,  is  the  Guildhall, 
a  quaint-looking  building  of  the  15-16th  cent,,  containing  some 
interesting  portraits.  The  upper  part  projects  over  the  footway,  and 
forms  a  kind  of  arcade  supported  by  columns.  Some  of  the  private 
houses  in  the  High  Street,  and  the  College  of  Priest  Vicars  in  South 
St. ,  are  also  interesting  old  buildings.  Several  of  the  Churches 
of  Exeter  (e.  g.  St.  Pancras^  are  of  considerable  interest,  and  the 
handsome  Training  College  for  Schoolmasters  may  also  be  mentioned. 

A  good  view  of  the  town  is  obtained  from  ML  Dinham,  a  small  hill 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Exe,  crowned  with  the  handsome  modern  Church 
of  St.  Michael.  —  A  still  better  view  is  obtained  from  the  Reservoir.,  at 
the  (V'i  hr.)  top  of  the  long  hill  leading  through  the  pleasant  suburb  of 
Pennsylvania^  on  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  town  (apply  at  the  keeper's  cottage). 
The  walk  may  be  extended  to  (3,4  M.)  Duryard  Park  (adm.  Id.),  whence 
we  may  return  by  a  drive  leading  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Exe. 

Excursions.  Coaches  leave  the  chief  Exeter  hotels  every  Sat.  in  sum- 
mer for  Chudleigh  (p.  130),  Dawlish  (p.  129),  Budleigh  (see  below),  or 
Tiverton  (p.  129),  all  pleasant  drives  of  20-25  M.  (there  and  back);  return- 
fare  in  each  case  35.  6d.  —  An  opportunity  is  afforded  of  a  visit  to  Dart- 
moor (p.  186)  from  Exeter  (G.W.R.)  by  trains  running  {yidi.  Newton  Abbot)  in 
connection  with  the  coaches  starting  from  Bovey  Tracey(-p.  130)  at  10.30a.  m. 
and  12.30  p.  m.  and  returning  to  Bovey  Tracey  about  6  p.m.  The  coaches 
vary  their  routes  daily,  visiting  Ilaytor  Bocks,  Hound  Tor,  Boicerman''s  Nose, 
Manaton,  the  Becky  Falls,  Moreton.,  Dunsford  Bridge,  Ashburton,  Ilolne  Chase., 
Buckland,  Fingle  Glen,  Drewsteignlon,  Whiddon  Park,  Spitchwick,  Widde- 
combe,  etc.  Fares  for  the  longer  round  5s.,  box-seat  6s. ',  for  the  shorter 
round  4s.,  5s.  The  above  data  are  subject  to  alteration;  enquiry  should 
be  made  on  the  spot. 

From  Exeter  to  Exmouth,  lO'/z  M.,  South  Western  Railway  in  V2  hr. 
(fares  is.  9d.,  Is.  id.,  1072^.).  This  short  branch  descends  along  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Exe.  —  6'/2  M.  Topsham  (Globe),  formerly  the  port  of  Exeter. 

—  lOV-2  M.  Exmouth  ('*5eacort;  Imperial;  London),  a  pleasant  little  water- 
ing-place, at  the  mouth  of  the  Exe,  with  a  fair  beach  and  an  esplanade. 

—  From  Exmouth  an  omnibus  (Is.)  runs  thrice  daily  to  Budleigh  Salterton 
(p.  103),  41/2  M.  to  the  E. 

From  Exeter  to  Barnstaple,  39  M.,  S.  W.  Railway  in  1^/4  hr.  (fares 
8s.  2d.,  5s.  9d.,  3s.  id.).  The  scenery  on  this  line  is  pretty  and  thoroughly 
Devonian.  —  71/2  M.  Crediton  (Angel ;  Ship)  was  once  the  seat  of  the 
bishopric  of  Devonshire,  now  centred  in  Exeter  (comp.  p.  103).  At 
(111/2  M.)  Yeoford  the  railway  to  Tavistock  and  Plymouth  diverges  to  the 
left,  skirting  the  N.  side  of  Dartmoor  (see  p.  136).  At  (iS^/\  M.)  Copplestone 
is  an  ancient  cross.  Beyond  (18M.)  Lapford  we  enter  the  valley  of  the 
Taw,  which  we  follow  all  the  way  to  Barnstaple.  —  39  M.  Barnstaple, 
and  thence  to  5/de/ord  and  Torrington  (left)  and  Ilfracomhe{T\gh\).  see  R.21. 

From  Exeter  to  Barnstaple  by  the  Exe  Valley,  see  pp.  128,  129-,  to 
Torquay,  Tavistock,  Launceston,  and  Plymouth,  see  R.  17a  and  R.  17b;  to 
Bristol,  see  R.  16. 


106 


15.  From  London  to  Bath  and  Bristol. 


II8V2  M.  Great  "Western  Railway  (Paddington  Station)  in  21/2-43/4  hrs. 
(fares  19s.  9d.,  125.  6d.,  9s.  IOV2C?.).  From  Bath  to  Bristol,  11 V2  M.,  in 
'/3-V/2  hr.  (fares  2s.,  it.  3d.,  ii^hd.).  The  IV/t  M.  between  London  and 
Swindon  are  traversed  by  the  'Flying  Dutchman'  in  rather  less  than  lV2hr., 
or  an  average  of  53  miles  per  hour. 

To  (16  M.)  Langley,  see  Baedekers  Handbook  for  London. 

181/'.>  M.  Slough  (Crown;  Royal)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to 
Eton  and  (3  M.l  Windsor  (p.  222 ). 

Windsor  may  also  be  reached  from  London  by  the  L.  S.  W.  railway 
(from  Waterloo  station):  fares  by  either  route  3s.  Qd.,  2s.  3d..,  Is.  9(f. 

Slough  is  also  the  station  for  Stoke  Poges,  Burnham  Beeches.,  etc. ;  see 
p.  252  and  Baedeker''s  Handbook  for  London. 

A  view  of  Windsor  Castle  is  obtained  to  the  left  as  we  leave 
Slough.  The  scenery  of  the  Thames  Valley  between  Slough  and 
Goring  (see  p.  107)  is  very  pleasing. 

24  M.  Maidenhead  (p.  2223,  prettily  situated  on  the  Thames,  is 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  Wycombe  and  Oxford  (see  p.  224).  From 
(31  M.)  Twyford  a  branch   diverges  to  Henley-on-Thames  (p.  221). 

36  M.  Reading  [Great  Western,  at  the  station;  Queen's;  Vastern 
Temperance ;  George,  unpretending,  R.  &  A.  3s.),  the  county-town 
of  Berkshire,  is  an  ancient  and  flourishing  town  with  60,054  in- 
habitants. The  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded  by  Henry  I.  in  1121, 
and  containing  his  grave,  was  once  one  of  the  wealthiest  in  England; 
a  few  ruins  now  alone  remain.  The  gateway  was  restored  in  1861. 
Several  parliaments  were  held  in  the  great  hall  of  the  abbey.  The 
University  Extension  College,  the  first  of  its  kind,  near  the  station, 
occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Hospitium  of  St.  John,  and  has  accom- 
modation for  600  students.  Its  agricultural  department  is  a  centre 
for  investigation  and  instruction  for  the  southern  counties.  The 
college  is  affiliated  to  Oxford  University.  The  churches  of  St.  Mary 
(16th  cent.),  St.  Lawrence  (15th  cent.),  and  Grey  friars  are  interest- 
ing. Adjoining  the  Free  Library  is  a  Musemn  containing  a  collection 
of  Romano-British  antiquities  from  Silchester  (see  below). 

The  antiquities  include  a  hoard  of  253  silver  denarii  (40  B.C. -211  A.D.), 
found  in  an  earthenware  pot:  objects  in  bone,  glass,  gold,  bronze,  and 
other  metals-,  pottery,  including  some  good  specimens  of  Samian  ware; 
and  a  fine  slab  of  Purbeck  marble. 

Archbishop  Laud  (1573-1645)  and  Justice  Talfourd  (1795- 1854) 
were  natives  of  Reading.  Huntley  ^'  Palmers'  biscuit  manufactory 
(nearly  5000  hands)  and  Sutton  and  Sons  seed-farms  (3000  acres) 
are  situated  at  Reading. 

Reading  may  also  be  reached  from  London  by  the  S.  W.  Railway  via 
Ascot  (431/2  M.),  "or  bv  the  circuitous  route  of  the  S.  E.R.  via  Reigate  and 
Guildford  (67  M.  •,  comp.  p.  63). 

From  Reading  to  Basixgstoke,  I4V2M.,  railway  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  25.  Gd., 
Is.  8d.,  is.  31,2^.).  —  6 M.  Mortimer.  About  21/2 M.  to  the  S.W.  lies  SUchester, 
with  interesting  remains  of  the  Romano-British  town  of  Caer-Segeint, 
called  Calleva  by  the  Romans  and  Silceastre  by  the  Saxons.  The  town 
walls  (2760  yds,  in  circuit),  a  large  amphitheatre,  the  foundations  of 
numerous  other  buildings,  and  some  fine  pavements  have  been  discovered. 


WANTAGE.  25.  Route.    107 

Recent  discoveries  indicate  tliat  the  ancient  town  contained  numerous 
dye-works.  The  smaller  antiquities  discovered  are  preserved  at  Reading 
(see  p.  106).  About  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Mortimer  is  Strathfieldsaye,  the 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  with  the  camp-bed  and  other  memorials 
of  the  Iron  Duke,  of  whom  a  bronze  statue  has  been  erected  here.  His 
charger  'Copenhagen',  which  he  rode  at  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  is  buried 
in  the  garden.  —  9M.  Bramley.  —  141/2  M.  Basingstoke^  see  p.  75. 

Fi:oM  Reading  to  Bath  via  Devize.s,  70  31.,  railway  in  31/2  hrs.  (fares 
II5.  lU'i.,  7s.  6</.,  55.  llrf.)-  This  branch  of  the  G.W.R.  is  travt^rsed  by  slow 
trains  only.  The  following  are  the  principal  stations:  —  17  M.  Newbury 
(Queen;  Chequers),  with  11,000  inhab.,  formerly  the  seat  of  an  important 
cloth-trade,  and  the  scene  of  two  battles  in  the  Civil  War  (1643  and  1644), 
in  the  first  of  which  Lord  Falkland  fell  (monument  on  the  battle-field). 
Branch-lines  run  hence  to  Didcot  (see  below)  to  the  ^N.  and  Winchester 
(p.  75)  to  the  S.  The  park  of  Highclere  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Car- 
narvon, 6  M.  to  the  S.W.,  is  open  to  visitors  on  Wed.  and  Saturday.  — 
251/2  M.  Ifungerford  (Bear;  Three  Swans),  on  the  Kennet,  a  favourite  ang- 
ling-resort and  hunting-centre.  April  15th,  called  '•Tuttiday',  is  celebrated 
with  curious  old-fashioned  ceremonies.  About  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  Little- 
cote  Hall,  a  good  specimen  of  a  16th  cent,  manor-house  (no  adm.).  —  34  M. 
iSavemake,  on  the  line  from  Sioitulon  to  Andover  Junction  (p.  103).  Savernake 
Forest  contains  a  splendid  avenue  of  beeches  and  some  gigantic  oaks.  — 
50M. Devizes  (*Bear;  Castle),  a  busy  town  (G426 inhab.)  with  an  active  trade 
in  grain.  The  name  is  derived  from  its  Roman  name,  Castyum  Divisarum 
or  Ad  Divisas.  The  old  Castle,  erected  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  and 
destroyed  in  the  17th  cent.,  has  almost  completely  disappeared.  The 
churches  oi  St.  John  and  St.  Mary  have  vaulted  Xorman  choirs,  and  the 
Museum  (adm.  Qd.)  contains  a  fair  collection  of  Wiltshire  antiquities.  The 
Market  Cross,  erected  in  1814,  bears  an  inscription  recording  the  'special 
judgmenf  that  overtook  a  dishonest  market-woman  in  1753.  —  At(56M.) 
Holt  Junction  we  join  the  Chippenham  and  Frome  line,  which,  however, 
we  quit  again  at  the  next  station.  571/2  M.  Trowbridge  (George)  is  an  ugly 
factory-town,  with  a  good  Perp.  church  (end  of  the  15th  cent.),  containing 
the  tomb  of  the  poet  Crahbe,  who  was  rector  of  Trowbridge  for  19  years 
(1813-32).  —  61  M.  Bradford-on-Avon  (Swan),  with  the  highly  interesting 
little  Saxon  "^Church  of  St.  Lawrence  (8th  cent.  ;  comp.  p.  xxxv),  which 
now  consists  of  nave,  chancel,  and  X.  porch.  The  chancel  opens  from 
the  nave  by  an  arched  door  only  2ft.  4  in.  wide.  The  Bridge  is  also 
noteworthy.  —  631/0  M.  Limpley  Stoke.  —  70  M.  Bath,  see  p.  109. 

Near  (411/2^0  Pangbourne  (p.  220)  is  Basildon  Park,  with  a 
good  collection  of  pictures.  Beyond  (443/4  M.)  Goring  (p.  220}  the 
train  crosses  the  Thames  for  the  last  time.  From  (47^/4  M.)  Mouls- 
ford  (p.  220)  a  branch  diverges  to  Wallingford  (p.  220). 

53  M,  Didcot  Junction  (Junction  Hotel ;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
whence  a  line  to  Oxford  (II.  31a)  and  Birmingham  (p.  258)  diverges  to 
the  N.  and  one  to  Newbury  (see  above )  and  Winchester  (p.  75)  to  the  S. 

6O1/2  M.  Wantage  Road  is  united  by  a  stenm-tramway  (fare  6rf.) 
with  (3M.)  Wantage  (Bear,  R.&  A.  38.  6d.),  the  birthplace  of  Alfred 
the  Great  (849-901)  and  of  Bishop  Butler  i_1692-1752),  with 
a  handsome  church  of  the  14th  century.  A  statue  of  King  Alfred, 
by  Count  Gleichen,  was  erected  in  the  market-place  in  1877. 

From  "Wantage  a  very  pleasant  walk  (about  10  M.)  may  be  taken  by 
the  Ridgeway  or  Ickleton  Street,  a  grass -grown  Roman  road,  along  the 
breezy  top  of  the  chalk  downs,  and  then  down  to  Uffington  (p.  1U8). 
About  11/2  M.  on  this  side  of  Uffington,  near  the  little  village  of  Kingston 
Lisle,  is  the  famous  'Blowing  Stone'  of  King  Alfred,  described  in  'Tom 
Brown's  School-Day s\  and  supposed  to  have  been  anciently  used  as  a  military 
signal.     It  lies  below  a  tree,    in  front  of  some  cottages  on   the  road  de- 


lOS   Route  15.  MALMESBURY.  From  London 

scending  from  the  Ridgeway  to  Kingston  Lisle,  Various  ancient  entrench- 
ments are  visible  on  the  Downs.  Instead  of  descending  to  the  Blowing 
Stone  we  may  follow  the  ridge  to  the  'White  Horse  Hiir  (see  below). 

64  M.  Challow.  From  (661/2  M.)  Vffington,  the  home  of  'Tom 
Brown',  with  a  most  interesting  E.  E.  *Church,  a  "branch-line  runs 
to  (3^2  M.)  Faringdon  (Bell ;  Crown),  once  a  residence  of  the  Saxon 
kings,  now  famous  for  its  ham  and  bacon. 

About  21/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  rffington  is  White  Horse  Hill  (890  ft,),  so 
called  from  the  huge  figure  of  a  horse  cut  in  the  turf,  370  ft.  in  length 
(visible  from  the  railway) ;  it  has  existed  here  for  over  1000  years  and  is 
said  to  have  been  made  by  Alfred  the  Great  to  commemorate  his  victory 
over  the  Danes  at  Ashdown  (871).  At  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  commands 
an  extensive  view,  is  Uffington  Castle^  an  entrenchment  probably  of  Danish 
origin.  The  deep  and  broad  gully  below  the  White  Horse  is  called  the 
'Manger'.  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  Manger  is  the  Dragon's  Bill ,  where 
St.  George  is  said  to  have  slain  the  dragon;  and  the  cromlech  known  as 
Wayland  Smith's  Forge^  immortalized  in  'Kenilworth',  lies  on  the  Ridge- 
way about   1  M.  farther  to  the  W. 

Beyond  (711/2  ^^0  Shrivenham  the  train  enters  Wiltshire.  — 
771/4  M.  Swindon  Junction  (Queen's  Royal  Hotel,  at  the  station ; 
Goddard  Arms,  in  Old  Swindon;  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms), 
where  the  line  reaches  its  highest  point  (300  ft."),  is  the  junction 
of  lines  to  Gloucester  (p.  170)  and  Highworth.  Swindon  Town  Sta- 
tion (L.  «S:  S.W.R.)  lies  1 M.  to  the  S.  Ahout  200  trains  pass  through 
the  junction  daily.  Swindon,  with  a  population  of  33,000,  con- 
sists of  an  old  town,  1 M.  from  the  junction,  and  the  now  contiguous 
new  town,  a  creation  of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  occupied  al- 
most exclusively  by  railway  artificers  and  employees,  who  are  said 
to  draw  nearly  300,000i.  a  year  in  wages.  The  extensive  works  of 
the  railway-company  are  open  to  visitors  on  "Wed.  afternoon. 

About  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Highworth  (see  above),  on  the  road  to  Fa- 
ringdon, and  8  M.  to  the  ^N".  E.  of  Swindon,  is  Coleshill  House,  a  good 
example  of  Inigo  Jones  (1550). 

From  Swi>-dox  Towx  to  Marlborough  and  Axdovek  Junction  (South- 
ampton), 35  M.,  railway  in  l-l'/2  hr.  (fares  5s.  Qd.,  3s.  Qd.,  2s,  9d.)  —  14  M. 
Marlborough  (Ailesburv  Arms;  Castle  d:  Ball)  is  known  for  its  College, 
established  in  1S45  and  now  one  of  the  great  public  schools  of  England 
(500-600  pupils).  The  oldest  part  of  the  college  was  formerly  the  mansion 
of  Lord  Seymour,  where  Thomson  wrote  part  of  his  'Seasons'  while  the 
guest  of  the  Countess  of  Hertford.  A  beautifal  new  chapel  was  opened 
in  1886.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  W.  is  *Avebury  Circle  (p.  Ixii),  the  largest 
stone-circle  in  England,  and  generally  looked  upon  as  older  than  Stone- 
henge.  To  the  S.  of  it  is  Silbury  Sill,  a  large  artificial  mound  170  ft.  high, 
supposed  to  be  of  British  origin.  —  19V2  M.  Savernake,  see  p.  107,  —  Four 
small  stations  are  passed.  —  35  M.  Andover  Junction  (p.  98). 

From  Swindon  Town  to  Cirencester  and  Cheltenham,  36  M.,  rail- 
way in  IV4  hr.  (fares  65. ,  3*.  9d. ,  35.).  This  line ,  the  N.  extension 
of  the  preceding,  runs  via  (8V2M.)  Cricklade,  on  the  Thames,  an  ancient 
but  now  unimportant  place.  15M.  Cirencester,  see  p.  170.  —  Three  small 
stations  are  passed.  28  M.  Andoversford  d-  Dowdeswell  is  the  junction  for 
the  line  from  Chipping  Norton  to  Cheltenham.  —  36 M,   Cheltenham  (p.  182). 

83  M.  WoottonBassett.  From  (88  M. )Daunfsey  a  branch  diverges 
to  (6  M.)Malmesbury  r^m/s  Arms  j,  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  Hobbes 
(1588-1679)  ,  with  the  ruins  of  a  fine  *Abbey  Church  (12th  cent.) 
and  a  Gothic  market-cross.  Pop.  2964,  William  of  Malmesbury,  the 


to  Bristol.  BATH.  15.  Route.    109 

chronicler  (d.  ca.  1143),  was  a  monk  in  the  abbey.  Abont  2  M.  to 
the  S.  of  Dauntsey  station  is  Bredenstoke  or  Clack  Abbey,  incorporat- 
ing the  remains  of  an  Augustine  priory  of  the  12th  century. 

94  M.  Chippenham  (Angel;  George),  with  4618  inhab.,  is  well 
known  for  its  corn  and  cheese  markets.  It  also  possesses  manufac- 
tures of  cloth,  churns,  and  condensed  milk.  Fine  old  Norman  church. 

About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Chippenham  (2  M.  from  Calne)  is  Bo- 
wood,  the  handsome  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Lansdowne,  with  a  fine  col- 
lection of  paintings  of  all  schools.  The  park  is  open  to  the  public.  To 
the  S.  of  Chippenham  (3  M.)  lies  Lacock  Abbey,  founded  in  1232  as  a  nun- 
nery, but  now  a  private  residence. 

Chippenham  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Calne  (51/4  M.  to  the  E. ;  Lans- 
downe Arms) ,  with  important  pig -killing  and  bacon-curing  industry,  and 
to  Trowbridge^  Westhury  (for  Weymouth,  Salisbury,  etc.),  Frame,  Witham 
(Wells,  etc.),  and  Yeovil  (p.  102). 

Beyond  Chippenham  the  train  follows  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
Avon.  Near  (981/4  M.)  Corsham  (Methuen  Arms)  is  Corsham  Court, 
the  seat  of  Lord  Methuen,  containing  a  valuable  collection  of  pic- 
tures (upwards  of  220,  exclusive  of  family  portraits),  to  which  strang- 
ers are  admitted  on  written  application.  The  train  then  enters 
the^ox  Tunnel,  13/4M.in  length,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  500,000  i., 
and  near  (102  M.)  Box,  famous  for  its  stone  quarries,  passes  into 
Somersetshire  and  re-enters  the  Avon  Valley. — i0l^l2'!A.Bathampton. 

107  M.  Bath.  —  Railway  Stations.  Great  Western  Station,  at  the  end 
of  Manvers  St.,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town;  Midland  Station  (for  Gloucester, 
Worcester,  Birmint;ham,  the  Somerset  and  Dorset  line,  etc.),  in  Green 
Park,  to  the  W.  of  the  town.  —   Hotel  omnibuses  meet  the  chief  trains. 

Hotels.  *Grand  Pump  Room  Hotel  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  a  large  establish- 
ment adjoining  the  baths;  'York  House  (PI.  b;  C,  2),  York  Buildinjis, 
quiet ;  Lansdowne  Grove,  near  St.  Stephen's  Church  (PI.  F,  2);  Castle 
(PI.  c;  C,  2),  Northgate  St.;  'Christopher  (PL  e;  C,  3),  near  the  Abbey, 
commercial,  E.  &  A.  3s.  6c?.;  Royal  (PL  f ;  B,  3),  Railway  (PL  g;  B,  3), 
both  opposite  the  G.  W.  R.  Station;  Francis'  Private  Hotel,  Queen 
Square  (PL  C,  2);  Fernley's  Temperance  (PL  h  ;  B,  C,  3),  near  the  Abbey. 

Cabs.  For  2  pers.,  with  1  horse,  is.  per  mile,  2s.  ^d.  per  hr. ;  to 
certain  high  levels  Qd.  extra  is  charged.  Double  fare  between  midnight 
and  6  a.m.  For  each  package  carried  outside,  2d.  —  Bath  Chairs,  is.  per 
mile  or  hr. 

Tramways  starting  from  the  G.  W,  R.  station  run  through  some  of  the 
principal  streets  to  Orosvenor,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town  (fares  2d.  and  id.). 

Music.  Band  twice  daily  in  summer  (May  to  Sept.)  in  the  Victoria 
Park,  Sydney  Gardens,  OT  Instilution  Gardens  (season-ticket  55.) ;  once  daily 
in  winter  in  the  Pump  Room,  where  vocal  concerts  are  also  given  (season 
ticket  IO5.).  —  Hiiih-class  concerts  take  place  in  the  Assemhli/  Eoom^. 

Theatre  Royal  (PL  C,  2),  Beaufort  St. 

Post  Office  (PL  D,  2),  close  to  the  top  of  Milsom  St.  Branch  post  and 
telegraph  oftice,  in  the  High  St.,  opposite  the  3Iunicipal  Buildings. 

Bath,  the  chief  place  in  Somerset,  is  a  handsome  town  of  51,844 
inhab. ,  beautifully  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Avon  and  on  the 
slopes  of  the  surrounding  hills,  and  is  perhaps  unrivalled  among 
provincial  English  towns  for  its  combination  of  archaeological, 
historic,  scenic,  and  social  interest.  It  is  a  city  of  crescents  and 
terraces,  built  in  a  very  substantial  manner  of  a  fine  yellow  limestone 
(oolite)  ,   and  rising  tier  above   tier  to   a  height  of  about  600  ft. 


no  Route  15.  BATH.  History. 

Tradition  ascribes  the  discovery  of  the  springs  of  Bath  to  an  ancient 
British  prince  named  Bladud ,  who  was  afflicted  with  leprosy  and  ob- 
served their  beneficial  effects  on  a  herd  of  swine  suffering  from'  a  similar 
disease.  The  therapeutic  value  of  the  waters  did  not  escape  the  keen 
eyes  of  the  bath-loving  Romans,  who  built  here  a  large  city,  with  ex- 
tensive baths  and  temples,  of  which  numerous  remains  have  been  discovered 
(comp.  p.  111).  Their  name  for  it,  Aquae  Sulis,  was  taken  from  a  local  deity 
Sul,  whom  they  identified  with  Minerva.  For  a  century  and  a  half  after 
the  departure  of  the  Romans.  Bath  remained  in  possession  of  the  Britons, 
but  about  577  it  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Saxons,  whose  name  for 
it  was  Akemanceaster  (from  a  local  corruption  of  ^^wae.  and  man  =  place). 
At  a  later  date  it  reappears  in  history  under  the  name  oi  Aet  Bathum  ('at 
the  bath'),  and  after  the  Norman  Conquest  it  became  the  seat  of  a  bishop 
(1092).  The  beginning  of  its  modern  reputation  as  a  watering-place  may 
be  placed  about  1650,  but  it  did  not  reach  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  till 
the  following  cent. ,  when  it  became  for  a  time  the  most  fashionable 
watering-place  in  England.  This  was  mainly  due  to  the  indefatigable 
exertions  of  the  famous  master  of  the  ceremonies,  Beau  Nash  (d.  1761), 
who  introduced  order  and  method  into  the  amusements  and  customs  of 
the  place.  Among  the  innumerable  visitors  of  eminence  in  the  18th  and 
early  19th  cent,  may  be  mentioned  Chatham,  Pitt,  Canning,  and  Burke, 
Kelson,  Wolfe,  and  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  Gainsborough  and  Lawrence,  Smol- 
lett, Fielding,  Sheridan,  Miss  Burney,  Goldsmith,  Southey,  Landor,  Miss 
Austen,  Wordsworth,  Cowper.  Scott,  and  Moore.  Perhaps  no  other  English 
town  of  the  size  has  oftener  been  the  theme  of  literary  allusion  —  from 
'Humphrey  Clinker"  and  the  'School  for  ScandaF  down  to  the  'Papers  of 
the  Pickwick  Club'.  The  competition  of  the  Continental  Spas  and  other 
causes  afterwards  diverted  a  great  part  of  the  stream  of  guests,  and  the 
'Queen  of  all  the  Spas'  subsided  into  a  quiet  and  aristocratic-looking 
place,  patronised  as  a  residence  by  retired  officers  and  visited  by  numer- 
ous invalids.  Of  late  years ,  however ,  Bath  has  shown  marked  signs  of 
revival  as  a  fashionable  resort.  For  some  time  it  was  an  important 
cloth -making  centre,  and  it  is  mentioned  in  connection  with  this  in- 
dustry in  Chaucer's  'Wife  of  Bath's  Tale'. 

The  hot  Mineral  Springs  to  which  Bath  owes  its  name  are 
what  is  known  as  a  'lime  carbonated  water',  and  are  efficacious  in 
rheumatism,  gout,  dyspepsia,  biliary  and  liver  complaints,  and  skin- 
diseases.  The  daily  yield  of  the  springs  is  upwards  of  half-a-million 
gallons.  The  water,  used  both  for  bathing  and  drinking,  rises  at 
a  temperature  of  from  116  to  120°  Fahr. ,  which  is  reduced, 
when  required ,  by  means  of  cooled  mineral  water.  The  Pump 
Room  [PLC,  2),  close  to  theW.  end  of  the  Abbey  Church  (p.  ill), 
is  a  large  edifice  in  the  classical  style ,  with  a  motto  from  Pindar 
f'Apiaxov  [JL£V  u6(op3  on  the  portico.  Visitors  are  admitted  free  to 
the  Pump  Room,  as  well  as  to  inspect  the  various  baths,  etc.  The 
charge  for  a  single  glass  of  the  mineral  water  is  Id.  At  one  end 
of  the  room  is  a  statue  of  Beau  Nash  (see  above).  A  large  concert-room 
and  suite  of  baths  were  erected  in  1893-94  in  connection  with  the 
pump-room.  —  Below  is  a  list  of  the  baths,  all  of  which  are  within 
a  stone's  throw  of  the  Pump  Room. 

New  Royal  Baths,  adjoining  the  Grand  Hotel  (bath  2s.-35.  6<f.,  fee  3^.; 
swimming-bath  6d.-l5.,  reserved  for  ladies  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.)  ; 
King's  and  Queen's  Baths.  Stall  St.,  adjoinina  the  Pump  Room  (1st  class 
bath  Is.  6d.-35.  6rf.,  2nd  class  6o?.-ls.  6d.,  fee  l-Sc?.);  Royal  Private  Baths, 
Bath  St.  (1st  class  Is.,  fee  3d.;  2nd  class  Is.  6d.,  fee  2d.)-,  Tepid  Swimming 
Bath  (88°  Fahr.),  Bath  St.  (6d.  and9d.);  C^'oss  Public  Swimming  Bath  (73°), 
at  the  end  of  Bath  St.    (Id.,    with   towel  2d.);  Hot  Bath  (120°),   Bath  St., 


Roman  Baths.  BATH.  15.  Route.    HI 

for  the  poor;  Kingston  Baths,  Church  St.  The  new  King's  Baths  are,  per- 
haps, the  mtist  perfectly  equipped  baths  in  Europe. 

The  King's  Baths  stand  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Baths,  first 
discovered  in  1755,  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by 
Emp.  Claudius  and  to  have  occupied  an  area  900  ft.  long  and 
350  ft.  wide.  Recently  more  important  discoveries  were  made,  and 
the  splendid  *Eoman  Baths  (PI.  C,  2,  3;  adm.  free,  1-3,  and  from 
May  to  July  after  6  p.m.)  now  shown  include  five  laige  baths  (one 
in  a  hall  110ft.  long  and  68ft.  wide),  besides  several  smaller 
ones,  with  the  hypocausts  for  heating  the  different  chambers.  One 
of  these  baths  is  still  coated  with  the  Roman  lead  (for  details,  see 
Davis's  'Guide  to  the  Roman  Baths').  —  A  little  to  the  N.  of  the 
baths  is  the  large  General  Hospital,  a  national  institution  for  poor 
patients  under  treatment  with  the  waters,  and  to  the  S.  is  the 
United  Hospital,  used  by  local  patients. 

The  Abbey  Church  (PI.  C,  3)  is  a  handsome  Perp.  edifice  of 
the  16th  cent.,  sometimes  called  the  'Lantern  of  England'  from 
the  number  and  size  of  its  windows.  The  central  tower,  162  ft. 
high,  is  oblong  in  form  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  transepts. 
The  church,  225  ft.  in  length,  is  the  third  which  has  occupied 
the  same  site.  The  first  was  that  of  a  nunnery  said  to  have  been 
erected  here  in  the  7th  century.  The  second  was  a  Norman  cathe- 
dral, begun  on  the  transference  of  the  see  of  Wells  to  Bath  (1090), 
and  completed  in  1160.  After  the  return  of  the  bishop  to  Wells 
in  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent. ,  this  church  ,  the  nave  of 
which  alone  was  as  large  as  the  present  building,  was  suffered 
to  fall  into  a  state  of  complete  ruin,  and  Bishop  Oliver  King  (1495- 
1503)  undertook  the  erection  of  a  new  one.  The  ladders  on  the 
W.  front  refer  to  a  dream  of  this  prelate  in  connection  with  the 
building.  The  church  was  finally  consecrated  in  1616.  In  1864-75 
a  judicious  restoration  was  carried  out  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  chiefly 
at  the  cost  of  the  Rev.  Prebendary  Kemhle.  Bath  Abbey  Church  is 
still  the  secondary  cathedral  of  the  diocese  of  Bath  and  Wells, 
though  since  1542  the  chapter  of  Wells  has  had  the  sole  right  of 
electing  the  bishops,  formerly  shared  with  the  monks  of  Bath. 

Interior.  The  most  noteworthy  features  are  the  fine  W.  window,  the 
fan-vaulted  roof  of  the  choir  (continued  by  Scott  over  the  nave),  and 
the  small  chantry  of  Prior  Bird  (c.  1600),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  chancel, 
with  its  fine  carviny:.  Among:  the  numerous  monuments,  most  of  them 
tasteless,  are  those  of  Waller,  the  Parliamentary  szeneral  (d.  1668;  S. 
transept):  Beau  Nash  (d.  1761;  on  wall  of  S.  aisle,  E.  end);  Quin,  the 
actor  (d.  1766;  at  E.  end  of  iS".  aisle  of  choir,  just  by  the  ddor,  with  in- 
scription byGarrick;  grave-stone  in  the  middle  of  the  nave,  also  with  a 
rhymed  inscription);  Malthus  (d.  1834),  the  political  economist  (in  the 
porch  of  N.  door  in  W.  front);  Bishop  Montague  (d.  1618),  an  altar-tomb 
in  the  nave;  Mavy  Frampton  ,  with  an  epitaph  by  Dryden,  on  the  S.E. 
wall;  and  W.  Hoare,  R.  A.^  by  Chantrey,  to  the  E.'of  Prior  Bird's  chapel. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St.  John  (Pl.B,  3),  in  the  South 
Parade,  near  the  G.  W.  R.  Station,  has  a  graceful  spire. 

The  Royal  Literary  and  Scientific  Institution  (PI.  C,  3;  open 


112     Route  15.  BATH.  From  London 

10.30-5,  adm.  2d.,  free  on  Thurs.  in  the  North  Parade,  near  the 
Abbey,  contains  interesting  Roman  antiquities  found  in  or  near 
Bath,  large  geological  and  mineralogical  collections,  ethnographical 
and  ornithological  collections,  and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes.  — 
The  Holhurne  Museum,  in  Charlotte  St.,  near  Queen  Square,  in- 
cludes a  picture-gallery  and  collections  of  plate,  china,  gems,  etc. 
(open  daily,  11-4,  gratis).  —  New  Municipal  Buildings  and  Technical 
Schools  have  recently  been  erected  as  wings  to  the  older  Ouildkall 
(PL  C,  3),  in  High  St.,  to  the  N.  of  the  Abbey,  the  whole  forming 
an  imposing  pile,  to  which  an  Art  Gallery  and  Reference  Library 
are  to  be  added  as  memorials  of  the  60th  year  of  Queen  Victoria's 
reign.  The  Guildhall  contains  a  fine  banqueting-room  with  some 
portraits  of  historical  interest.  —  Among  the  numerous  schools 
of  Bath  are  Bath  College,  the  New  Kingswood  School,  for  the  sons 
of  Wesleyan  ministers,  and  the  Officers'  Daughters"  College,  the 
last  two  being  conspicuous  buildings,  nearly  opposite  each  other, 
on  the  ascent  to  Lansdown. 

The  *Victoria  Park ,  including  a  Botanical  Garden ,  on  the 
N.W.  side  of  the  town,  is  a  well-kept  pleasure-ground,  50  acres  in 
extent.  It  is  open  free,  but  when  the  band  plays,  2d.  is  charged  to 
non-subscribers  for  admission.  To  theE.,  at  the  end  of  Great  Pul- 
teney  St.,  are  the  Sydney  Gardens  (PL  D,  4 ,  adm.  3d.}. 

An  admirable  view  of  the  town,  thonsli  somewhat  circumscribed  by 
foliage,  is  obtained  from  (1/4  hr.)  -Beechen  Cliff  (PL  A.  3;  390  ft.  above  the 
Avon),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town.  To  reach  it  we  cross  the  foot-bridge 
V-!id.)  behind  the  G.  W.  R.  Station  and  ascend  straight  on,  soon  coming 
to  notices  which  point  out  the  way.  At  the  top  we  follow  the  path  along 
the  ridge  towards  the  W..  and  regain  the  town  by  the  Holloway  and  the 
Old  Bridge.  —  Another  good  point  of  view  is  Sham  Castle^  on  the  hill  about 
11/2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  G.  W.  E.  Station,  and  best  reached  by  Pidteney  Street 
and  the  so-called  North  Road. 

Bath  is  surrounded  with  •Downs',  softly  rounded  hills,  the  tops  of 
which  afiford  charming  views.  The  most  important  a.Te  Lansdoicn  (SCO  ft., 
2  M.  to  the  N.),  Claverton  and  Coombe  Down  (550  ft.;  2-3  M.  to  the  S.), 
and  Hampton  Doicn  (600  ft.;  li '2  M.  to  the  E.),  with  Sham  Castle  (see 
above).  Little  Solshury  fca.  600  ft. ;  8  M.  to  the  N.E.)  is  a  flat-topped  hill 
with  clearly  defined  earthworks.  A  walk  or  drive  over  Lansdown  as  far 
as  the  third' milestone,  and  thence  (for  walkers  only)  across  the  race-course 
to  (1  M.)  Prospect  Stile^  will  afford  the  visitor  one  of  the  finest  views  in 
the  "W.  of  England.  On  the  way  we  pass  (2  M.)  Lansdown  Cemetery,  with 
the  tomb  of  Beckford  of  Fonthill  (p.  101)  and  a  tower  built  by  him,  the 
top  of  which  commands  an  extensive  view  (Bath  not  visible).  This  walk 
may  be  lengthened  by  returning  through  North  Stoke  (with  an  ancient 
church),  and  thence  through   Upton  or  Bitten  to  the  railway. 

About  2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Bath,  beyond  Widcombe  (with  an  old 
church  and  manor-house),  is  Prior  Park,  now  a  P^oman  Catholic  college,  but 
formerly  the  seat  of  Ralph  Allen  (d.  1764),  the  original  of  Squire  Allworthy 
in  'Tom  Jones'.  Through  his  building-enterprfse  and  sturdy  belief  in 
the  good  qualities  of  the  Bath  stone,  Mr.  Allen  justly  shares  with  Beau 
Nash"  and  the  architect  Wood  the  credit  of  creating  modern  Bath.  Near 
Prior  Park  is  a  circular  tower  within  a  triangular  base,  erected  to  com- 
memorate Bishop  Warburton's  publication  of  'The  Divine  Legation  of 
Moses'.  —  The  village  of  Claverton,  in  the  charming  Warleigh  Val- 
ley, 3  M.  to  the  E.,  is  best  reached  by  train  to  Bathompton  (p.  109)  or 
Limpley  Stoke  (p.  107).  —  Farley  Castle,  reduced  to   a  ruin  in  the  Parlia- 


to  Bristol.  LONGLEAT.  15.  Route.     113 

mentary  Wars,  lies  7  M.  to  the  E.  and  may  be  reached  by  train  to  Fresh- 
ford  and  thence  by  a  field -path  (2  M.).  —  The  old  manor-houses  of 
South  Wrajcall  and  Chadfield  (near  Box,  p.  109),  in  the  Tudor  style,  are 
also  worth  a  visit.  —  The  church  and  manor-house  of  St.  Catherine  s 
(5  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  beyond  Batheaston),  in  a  pretty  valley,  both  date 
from  about  1500.  —  In  a  hollow  to  the  E.  of  Lansdown,  IV-j  M.  from 
the  town,  is  Gharlcombe,  traditionally  the  mother-church  of  Bath. 

Fkom  Bath  to  Wells  (fares  5s.  6d.,  2s.  Qd.).  The  quickest  railway 
route  from  Bath  to  Wells  is  by  the  Somerset  and  Dorset  line  via  Evev- 
creech  and  Glastonburii  (see  below;  lV-.'-2  hrs.),  but  Wells  niav  also  be 
reached  by  the  G.W.R.  via  Bristol  and  Yatton  (see  R.  16;  2-2i/2  hrs.)  or 
via  Westbunj.1  Witham,  and  Shepton  Mallet  (see  below;  21/4-3'^  hrs.).  For 
those  who  do  not  object  to  a  little  walking,  perhaps  the  pleasautest  way  of 
making  this  excursion  is  to  take  the  train  to  (I8V2M.)  Masbury  {se&Xxilow) 
and  walk  thence  to  (3  M.)  Wells.  —  Wells.,  see  p.  123. 

Fkom  Bath  to  Gloucester,  41  M.,  railway  in  IV2-2  hrs.  (fares  5s.  8t/., 
3s.  b^jid.).  The  trains  start  from  the  Midland  Railway  Station,  and  join 
the  main  line  from  Bristol  at  (10  M.)  Mangotsneld  Junction  (p.  181). 

From  Bath  to  Templecombe,  37  M.,  Somerset  and  Dorset  rail- 
way in  11/4-2  hrs.  (fares  7s.  Sc^.,  3s.  id.).  The  trains  leave  Bath  from 
the  Midland  Station.  —  The  first  part  of  the  route  is  very  pretty.  At 
(IOV2  M.)  Radstock  (Waldegrave  Arms)  we  cross  the  G.  W.  R.  line  from 
Bristol  to  Frome. — At  (I8V2M.)  Masbury,  whence  Wells  may  be  reached 
by  a  pleasant  walk  of  3  M.,  we  cross  the  Mendip  Hills.  Beyond  Masbury 
we  have  a  fine  view  to  the  right,  including  Wells  Cathedral  and  Glaston- 
bury Tor  (p.  126).  —  211/2  M.  Shepton  Mallet  (George;  Hare  &  Hounds), 
the  church  of  which  has  a  fine  panelled  roof.  This  is  the  junction  for 
the  G.  W.  R.  line  from  Yatton  (p.  122)  to  Witham  (p.  126).  —  261/2  M. 
Evercreech  Junction  is  the  junction  for  Glastonbury  (Wells)  and  Burnham 
(see  p.  127).  —  29  M.  Cole,  for  Yeovil  to  the  right  and  Bruton  and  Westbury 
to  the  left.  —  From  (33  M.)  Wincanton  (Greyhound;  Bear)  excursions  may 
be  made  to  (372  M.)  Penselwood  and  the  curious  '■Pen  Fiis\  the  object  of 
which  is  still  a  bone  of  antiquarian  contention,  and  to  (31/2  M.)  Stavordale 
Priory.  The  whole  district  is  rich  in  early  historical  interest.  —  At  (37  M.) 
Templecombe  (p.  102)  we  connect  with  the  main  S.W.  line  from  London 
to  Exeter  (R.  14),  though  the  Somerset  ic  Dorset  trains  run  on  to  Broad- 
stone  and  Bournemouth  (p.  95). 

From  Bath  to  Salisbdrt,  41  M.,  Great  Western  Railway  in  11/2-2^4  hrs. 
(fares  6s.  lOd.,  4s.  id.,  3s.  5d.).— From  Bath  to  (123/4  M.)  Trowbridge,  see 
p.  1U7.  —  Our  line  here  turns  to  the  right  (S.).  From  (17  M.)  Westbuv// 
(Lopes  Arms)  a  line  diverges  on  the  ri'^ht  to  Frome  (p.  122).  There  is  a 
fine  church  at  Edington,  41/2  M.  to  the^  W.  —  2I1/2  M.  Warminster  (Bath 
Arms;  Lamb)  is  the  station  for  'Longleat  (41/2  M.  to  the  S.W.),  the  magnifi- 
cent seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Bath,  considered  the  finest  Elizabethan  man- 
sion in  England  (shown  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  11-4).  It  contains  an 
interesting  collection  of  portraits.  —  Beyond  Warminster  we  pass  two 
British  camps,  Battlesbury  and  Scratchbury,  on  the  left,  and  reach  (251/4  M.) 
Heytesbury  (Angel),  where  Heyteshury  Park,  the  seat  of  Lord  Ileytesbury, 
contains  some  good  Italian  and  Spanish  pictures.  —  At  (38  V2  M.)  Wilton  we 
join  the  line  from  Salisbury  to  Exeter  (see  p.  101).  —  41  M.  Salisbury, 
see  p.  98. 

Continuation  of  the  Railway  to  Bristol.  The  first  station 
beyond  Bath  is  (108  M.)  Twerton,  with  a  large  cloth-manufactory 
and  a  cottage  in  which  Fielding  is  said  to  have  written  'Tom  Jones'. 
The  train  now  runs  parallel  with  the  Bath  branch  of  the  Midland 
Railway.  Ill  M.  Salt  ford.  — At  (114  M.)  Keynsham  (Lamb  &  Lark"),  a 
Roman  mosaic  (Orpheus  and  the  beasts),  now  at  Bristol,  was  found 
during  the  construction  of  the  railway.  Beyond  Brislington  the  train 
threads  two  tunnels  and  crosses  the  Avon. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain,    4th  Edit.  8 


114    Route  15.  BRISTOL.  Tramways. 

II8Y2  M.  Bristol.  —  Hotels.  *RoTAL  (PI.  a;  E,4),  pleasantly  situated 
in  College  Green,  close  to  the  Cathedral  and  1  M.  from  the  station,  R.  &  A. 
from  4s.  Gd.y  table-d'hote  4«. ;  Geand  (PI.  b;  F,  3),  Broad  St.,  well  spoken 
of,  R.  &  A.  from  45.;  'Royal  Talbot  (PL  c;  G,  4),  Victoria  St.  —  George 
(PI.  d;  H,  5),  near  the  station;  Cathedral  (PI.  f ;  E,  4),  near  the  College 
Green;  Colston  Temperance  (PI.  c;  E,  4),  College  Green,  well  spoken  of. 
—  At  Clifton:  •Clifton  Down  (PI.  g;  B,  4) ,  a  large  establishment,  with 
fine  view  of  the  Suspension  Bridge,   etc.;   *St.  Vincent's  Rocks  (PI.  h; 

B,  4),  with  a  similar  view,  suitable  for  a  prolonged  stay;  Imperial  (PI.  i; 

C,  i),  near  the  Clifton  Down  Station,  well  spoken  of;  Montague  Hotel, 
Kingsdown  Parade. 

Restaurants.  Grand  Hotel  Restaurant^  Wine  St.;  Dunlop^  Baldwin 
St.;  Miller  (Nattris),  Wine  St.;  The  Rummer^  in  the  Market,  adjoining  the 
Exchange;  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  Railway  Station. 

Cabs  with  one  horse  Is.  per  mile,  6d.  each  1/2  M.  addit.;  with  two 
horses  Is.  ^d.  and  9d.  Per  hour  2s.  Qd.  and  4s. ;  each  addit.  V*  t^r.  6d.  and 
9d.  For  each  passenger  beyond  two,  Qd.  extra.  Each  package  carried  out- 
side 2d.     Double  fares  between  midnight  and  6  a.m. 

Tramways.  The  Tramways'^  Centre  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  draw- 
bridge (PI.  F,  4).  1.  Railway  Station  (PI.  H,  4)  to  the  Tramways"  Centre 
(PI.  F,  4),  and  to  Hotwells,  below  Clifton  Suspension  Bridge  (PI.  A,  4), 
every  few  min.  (fares  id.,  2d.).  —  2,  3.  Totterdown  and  the  Railway  Station 
(PI.  H,  4)  to  Bristol  Bridge  (PI.  G,  4)  every  5  min. ;  to  Old  Market  (PI.  H,  3), 
every  10  min.  (Id.)  —  4.  Old  Market  (P1.*H,  3j  to  Redland,  every  few  min. 
(Id.,  2d.).  —  5.  Tramways''  Centre  to  Redland,  every  few  min.  (Id.,  2d.).  — 
6.  Tramways'  Centre  to  Horfield.  everv  8  min.  (Id..  2d.).  —  9.  Tramways'' 
Centre  to  Ashley  Road  (P].  G,  1) ,  every  12  min.  (Id.).  —  10,  11.  Bristol 
Bridge  (PI.  G,  4)  to  Bedminster  (PI.  G,  6),  every  6  min.  (Id.);  to  Ashion  Gate, 
everv  12  min,  (2d.).  —  12.  Omnibus  from  Tramways''  Centre  to  Clifton.,  every 
1/4  hr.  (2d.,  3d.). 

Electric  Tramways.  The  cars  halt  only  at  the  stations  and  stopping 
places  indicated  by  rings  painted  round  the  trolley-posts.  —  1.  Old  Market 
(PI.  H,  3)  to  Eastville,  every  5  min.  (Id.);  extension  to  Fishponds  and  Staple 
Hill  under  construction.  —  2.  Old  Market  to  St.  George,  every  6  min.,  and 
to  Kingswood,  every  12  min.  (Id.,  2d.,  3d.). 

Steamers  ply  from  Bristol  to  Ilfracomhe.,  Cardiff,  London,  Liverpool, 
Glasgow,  Plymouth,  Penzance,  Torquay,  Milford,  Swansea.  Chepstow  (in  sum- 
mer), Belfast,  Dublin,  Cork,  Waterford,  Amsterdam,  Antwerp,  Bordeaux,  etc. 

Boats.  Small  boat  up  and  down  the  Floating  Harbour  6d.,  more  than 
1  pers.  3d.  each:  across  the  ^fO«  below  the  Feeder  4d.  and  2d. ;  across  the 
Feeder  4d.  and  2d. ;  ferry  across  the  Frome  id. 

Post  Office  (Pl.F,  3),  Small  St.,  opposite  the  Assize  Courts. 

Theatres.  Princess  Theatre  (PI.  E,  4),  Park  Row;  Old  Theatre  Royal 
(PI.  F,  4),  King  St. 

TJ.  S.  Consul,  Lorin  A.  Lathrop,  Esq.,  Shannon  Court,  Small  St.  — 
Vice-Consul,  Gerard  Mosely,  Esq. 

Principal  Attractions.  "Cathedral  (p.  117);  -St.  Mary  Redcliffe  (p.  115); 
''Clifton  Down  and  "Suspension  Bridge  (p.  120);  *Durdham  Down  (p.  121); 
St.  Peter's  Hospital  (p.  116)  &  Church  (p.  116);  Mayor's  Chapel  (p.  119). 

Bristol,  an  ancient  and  interesting  commercial  town,  the  see  of 
a  bishop,  and  at  one  time  the  chief  seaport  of  West  England,  is 
situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Avon  and  the  Frome,  7  miles  from  the 
Bristol  Channel.  It  lies  partly  in  Somerset  and  partly  in  Gloucester, 
hut  forms  a  city  and  county  of  itself.  Its  trade ,  chiefly  with 
the  Mediterranean,  America,  and  Ireland,  is  still  very  important. 
Among  the  chief  of  its  numerous  manufactures  are  soap,  tobacco, 
leather,  boots  and  shoes,  glass,  brass  and  copper  wares,  chocolate, 
cotton,  and  sugar  (formerly  the  staple).  It  possesses  a  large  har- 
bour and  docks,  and  the  Avon  has  been  made  navigable  for  vessels 


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St.  Mary  Kedcliffe.  BRISTOL.  15.  Route.     115 

of  large  tonnage.  The  population  in  1891,  including  that  of  Clifton, 
was  221,578.   The  spring  tides  rise  to  a  height  of  40  ft. 

Bristol  (Anglo-Saxon,  Bright- Stow  or  Brig  -  Stow)  has  no  certified 
history  earlier  than  the  Norman  Conquest,  but  by  the  12th  cent,  it  had 
attained  considerable  wealth  and  importance.  The  old  castle,  in  which 
King  Stephen  was  imprisoned  by  Queen  Matilda,  was  razed  by  Cromwell, 
and  few  traces  are  left  of  it  (p.  116).  In  the  15-16th  cent.  Bristol  was 
the  second  city  of  England  and  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  with  all 
parts  of  the  world.  Among  the  numerous  naval  expeditions  it  sent  out 
were  those  of  the  great  explorer  John  Cabot  (1497,  etc.),  whose  equally 
famous  son  Sebastian  was  probably  born  at  Bristol  in  1474  (monument,  see 
p.  119).  The  fair  fame  of  the  city  was  sullied  by  the  practice  of  kidnapping, 
carried  on  to  provide  labourers  for  the  American  Colonies;  and  Bristol  was 
also  one  of  the  British  towns  principally  concerned  in  the  slave-trade. 
In  the  Civil  War  the  town  was  besieged  and  taken,  first  by  the  Royalists 
(1643),  and  then  by  Gen.  Fairfax  (1646),  to  whom  it  was  surrendered  by 
Prince  Rupert  with  almost  no  resistance.  In  1831  the  discussion  of  the 
Reform  Bill  was  accompanied  at  Bristol  by  serious  riots,  in  which  numerous 
lives  were  lost  and  an  immense  amount  of  property  destroyed.  The  'Great 
Western',  one  of  the  tirst  two  British  steamers  to  cross  the  AtlanticOcean, 
was  built  at  Bristol  and  started  from  this  port  for  its  first  oceanic  voyage 
in  1838. 

The  hospitality  of  the  wealthy  sugar-boilers  of  Bristol  was  famous, 
and  one  of  their  favourite  beverages,  made  of  Solera  sherry,  was  widely 
known  as  'Bristol  milk\  Fuller  relates  that  this  concoction  was  the  first 
'moisture'  given  to  infant  Bristolians,  and  it  is  mentioned  with  approval 
in  Pepys's  Diary  (13th  .Tune,  1668).  Comp.  'Bristol  Past  and  Present'  by 
Nicholls  and  Taylor  (1881-82)  and  'Bristol'  ('Historic  Towns  Series'),  by  the 
Rev.   W.  Hunt  (1887). 

From  the  Temple  Meads  Railway  Station  (PL  H,  4),  a  handsome 
modern  structure  in  the  joint  occupation  of  the  Great  Western  and 
Midland  companies,  Victoria  Street,  traversed  hy  a  tramway  and 
passing  a  more  curious  than  beautiful  Statue  of  Neptune  (16th 
cent.),  leads  direct  to  the  (Y2  ^^1.)  centre  of  the  town.  [To  the  right 
diverges  Temple  Street,  with  the  Temple  Church,  originally  erected 
for  the  Knights  Templar  about  1145,  hut  dating  in  its  present 
form  chiefly  from  the  14-15th  centuries.  The  tower  is  5  ft.  out  of 
the  perpendicular.]  "We  may,  however,  diverge  at  once  to  the  left, 
down  Pile  Street,  to  (5  min.)  the  church  of  *St.  Mary  Redcliife 
(PL  G,  5),  the  lofty  spire  of  which  is  visible  as  soon  as  the  sta- 
tion is  quitted.  This  church  (usually  entered  from  the  S.side)  is 
unquestionably  as  neariy  faultless  an  example  of  its  kind  (rich 
Perp.)  as  exists  in  the  country,  and  justifies  Queen  Elizabeth's 
description  of  it  as  'the  fairest,  the  goodliest,  and  most  famous 
parish-church  in  England'.  It  was  founded  in  the  13th  cent.,  but 
by  degrees  rebuilt,  mainly  by  the  Canynges,  grandfather  and  grand- 
son, each  5-6  times  Mayor  of  Bristol,  in  the  14-15th  centuries. 
The  most  noteworthy  features  of  the  exterior  are  the  *N.  Porch 
(earlier  than  the  body  of  the  church ,  but  recently  restored) ,  the 
tower,  and  the  spire  (285  ft. ;  top  half  modern).  The  church  is 
240  ft.  long,  and  117  ft.  wide  across  the  transepts. 

Interior  (open  to  visitors  free).  The  narrowness  of  the  nave  and 
transepts  is  remarkable,  and  the  latter  have  the  rare  addition  of  side 
aisles.     The   reredos    of  Caen    stone  is   also   very   beautiful,    while  the 


116     Route  15.  BRISTOL.  St.  Peter's. 

Lady  Chapel  is  a  blaze  of  rich  colouring.  The  visitor  should  also 
notice  the  groined  roof  and  a  window  in  the  lower  helfry  (N.W.  corner 
of  church),  in  which  most  of  the  old  coloured  glass  has  been  collected 
and  arranged.  There  is  an  effigy  of  William  Canynges  the  Elder  (d.  1396) 
in  the  S.  aisle  of  the  nave,  and  one  of  the  Younger  (d.  after  1467)  in  the 
S.  transept.  On  one  of  the  piers  of  the  tower,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  nave, 
hangs  the  armour  of  Sir  William  Penn  (d.  1670),  father  of  the  founder  of 
Pennsylvania;  and  in  the  adjoining  belfry  we  are  shown  a  rib  of  the 
famous  Dun  Cow  slain  by  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick  (comp.  p.  245;  really 
a  bone  of  a  whale,  said  to  have  been  brought  home  by  the  Cabots).  — 
Above  the  N.  porch  is  the  muniment  room  in  which  Thomas  Chatierton 
(1752-70),  'the  marvellous  boy,  the  sleepless  soul  that  perished  in  his 
pride',  professed  to  have  discovered  the  Piowley  MSS.  (shown  by  the  verger 
on  application).  His  uncle  was  sexton  of  the  church.  Within  the  enclosure 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  church  is  a  memorial  of  Chatterton,  who  was  born  in 
an  adjoining  street.  —  A  long-established  annual  event  at  this  church  is 
the  Rush-Bearing,  which  takes  place  on  Whitsunday,  when  the  Mayor 
and  Corporation  attend  in  state  and  the  floor   is  strewn  with  rushes. 

"We  now  follow  Redcliffe  Street,  which  leads  northwards  to 
(7  min.)  Bristol  Bridge  (PI.  Gr,  4),  crossing  the  'Floating  Harbour' 
formed  hy  the  diversion  of  the  course  of  the  Avon.  A  statue  of 
Samuel  Morley,  M.  P.  (d.  1886),  adjoins  the  bridge.  On  the  left  in 
Redcliffe  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Ferry  Lane,  is  Canynges'  House  (see 
above).  Beyond  Bristol  Bridge,  High  Street  leads  to  the  centre  of 
the  town,  reaching  at  the  end  of  Corn  St.  the  long  line  of  streets 
running  N.E.  from  the  Tramways"  Centre  (p.  117),  which  form  per- 
haps the  chief  artery  of  traffic  and  contain  the  handsomest  shops  and 
public  buildings.  In  the  meantime,  however,  we  leave  High  St.  to 
the  right  'by* Mary-le-Port  Street  (Pl.F,  3),  still  consisting  to  a  great 
extent  of  quaint  houses  of  the  14-15th  centuries.  At  the  end  of 
the  street  is  *St.  Peter  s  Hospital  (PI.  0,  3),  one  of  the  most  per- 
fect specimens  of  domestic  architecture  of  its  kind  in  the  W.  of 
England,  originally  erected  in  the  12th  cent,  and  partly  rebuilt  in 
1608.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  handsome  court-room.  The  build- 
ing was  formerly  used  as  a  mint,  afterwards  as  a  hospital,  and  is  now 
the  Office  of  the  Guardians  of  the  Poor.  Close  by  is  St.  Peter  s  Church, 
the  mother-church  of  Bristol,  the  tower  of  which  (except  the  upper 
story)  is  early-Norman.  The  poet  Savage  (1698-1743)  is  buried  at 
the  back  of  St.  Peter's  Church. 

Beyond  Mary-le-Port  St.  we  pass  through  Peter  Street  into  Castle 
Street  (PI.  G,  3),  taking  name  from  the  extensive  feudal  fortress, 
founded  probably  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent.,  which  formerly  stood 
on  this  site  (p.  115).  Scarcely  any  relic  of  the  castle  remains  ex- 
cept the  entrance  to  the  banqueting-hall.  now  incorporated  in  a  pri- 
vate house  (in  Tower  St.).  Parts  of  the  outer  walls  may  also  be  seen 
amid  the  modern  buildings  on  the  N.  and  E. 

We  may  now  return  through  Dolphin  St.  into  Wine  Street  (PI. 
F,  3),  at  No.  9  in  which  (right)  Robert  Southey  (1774-1843)  was  born. 

To  the  right  diverges  the  narrow  Pithay  (Norman  ^!/t<,  a  well,  and  haie^ 
an  enclosure),  a  genuine  though  dingy  relic  of  Old  Bristol.  Old  Tower  Lane., 
diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Pithay,  leads  along  the  line  of  the  old  City 
Walls,  some  remains  of  which  are"  visible,  to  St.  John's  Church  (p.  117). 


Exchange.  BRISTOL.  15.  Route.    1 1  7 

—  In  Union  Street,  to  the  N.  of  Dolphin  St.,  is  St.  James's  Church  (PI.  G,  3), 
one  of  the  oldest  in  Bristol,  still  retaining  much  of  the  ancient  Norman  work. 
The  small  circular  window  is  a  good  example  of  a  feature  more  common 
in  foreign  than  in  English  Romanesque  churches  of  the  same  period. 

Wine  St.  ends  at  the  junction  with  High  St.  (p.  116),  opposite 
which  Broad  Street  diverges  to  the  W.,  containing,  to  the  left,  the 
Guildhall  (PI.  F,  3),  a  modern  building  in  the  Elizabethan  style. 
At  the  end  is  a  gateway  arch  of  the  old  City  Wall,  strangely  sur- 
mounted by  the  spire  of  St.  John's  Church  (PI.  F,  3;  15th  cent.), 
the  body  of  which  is  itself  part  of  the  wall.  Beyond  the  archway 
is  Christmas  Street,  leading  to  Christmas  Steps,  a  quaint  and  steep 
lane  at  the  top  of  which  are  some  curious  stone  seats  and  the  chapel 
of  an  alms-house  (1504;  dedicated  to  the  Magi). 

Returning  to  Wine  St.  we  next  enter  Corn  Street  (PI.  F,  4), 
in  which  is  the  Council  House,  containing  a  valuable  collection  of 
old  plate  and  a  fine  portrait  by  Van  Dyck.  On  the  other  side  (left) 
is  the  Exchange  (PI.  F,  4;  1740),  in  front  of  which  are  four  singular 
metal  tables,  known  as  the  ^Nails'.  These  belonged  to  the  Tolsey 
(mentioned  in  Scott's  'Pirate'),  the  forerunner  of  the  Exchange,  and 
were  used  by  the  merchants  for  making  payments  (hence,  it  is  said, 
the  phrase  'pay  on  the  nail').  Three  of  them  bear  dates  (1594, 
1625,  1631). 

Nearly  opposite  the  Exchange  diverges  Small  Street  (PI.  F,  3), 
containing  the  Post  Office  and  the  Assize  Courts.  The  latter,  forming 
the  back  of  the  Guildhall  (see  above),  incorporate  Colston  s  House 
(p.  1 19),  of  which  some  interesting  remains  are  pointed  out  to  visitors. 

Corn  St.  is  prolonged  by  Clare  Street,  from  which  a  short  street 
on  the  right  leads  to  St.  Stephen's  Church  (PI.  F,  4),  a  late-Gothic 
building  of  1470,  with  a  fine  restored  tower,  of  which  Mr.  Freeman 
notes  that  it  'is  remarkable  for  having  aesthetically  dispensed  with 
buttresses'.    Tradition  says  St.  Augustine  preached  here. 

Marsh  Street,  to  the  left  (S.),  leads  to  the  Central  Free  Library  (PI. 
F,  4),  the  earliest  Protestant  free  library  in  Kngland  (1613),  containing  a 
line  sculptured  mantel-piece  by  Grinling  Gibbon?,  Farther  on,  beyond 
the  Custom  House,  is  Queen  s  Square  (PI.  F,  4,  5),  the  principal  scene  of 
the  riots  of  1831,  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  William  III.  by  Rysbrack. 
David  Hume  was  a  clerk  at  Iso.  16  Queen's  Sq.  (S.  side)  in  1734. 

Clare  Street  ends  at  the  Tramways'  Centre  (p.  114),  which  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  the  old  Drawbridge.  The  part  of  the  Floating 
Harbour  to  the  right  has  been  filled  up,  and  the  open  space  thus 
formed  is  embellished  with  statues  of  Edmund  Burke  (M.  P.  for 
Bristol,  1774-80)  and  Edward  Colston  (p.  119).  Turning  to  the  left, 
we  soon  reach  the  pretty,  open  space  named  College  Green  (PI. 
E,4),  originally  the  burial-ground  of  the  abbey  (see  p.  118)  ;  among 
the  buildings  round  it  are  the  Cathedral,  St.  Augustine's  Church, 
the  Mayor's  Chapel,  and  the  Royal  Hotel.  Immediately  in  front 
is  a  Statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  by  Boehm. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  E,  4)  was  originally  erected  in  the  r2th 
cent,  (begun  in  ll-i'2),  as  the  church  of  an  Augustine  abbey,  by 


118     Route  15.  BRISTOL.  Cathedral. 

Robert  Fitzhardinge,  a  Bristol  merchant,  and  progenitor  of  the  Berke- 
ley family.  It  was,  however,  rebuilt  two  centuries  later,  while  the 
nave,  destroyed  in  the  14th  cent.,  was  rebuilt  by  Street  in  harmony 
with  the  choir  and  transept  in  1868.  The  main  body  of  the  structure 
is  of  the  Dec.  order,  resembling  in  many  respects  the  German  Gothic 
of  the  period  (13-14th  cent.),  but  the  Chapter  House  (1155-1170), 
a  remnant  of  the  original  church,  is  a  fine  example  of  late-Norman. 
The  Elder  Lady  Chapel  (c.  1210)  is  good  E.E.,  and  the  Cloisters 
(incomplete)  are  Perpendicular.  The  W.  front  has  a  deeply  recessed 
doorway  and  two  towers  (1888).  The  Tower,  127  ft.  high,  is  a  Perp. 
addition  of  the  16th  century.  The  Cathedral  is  300  ft.  long,  68  ft. 
wide,  and  56  ft.  high.  —  The  bishopric  of  Bristol  was  founded  by 
Henry  YIII.  in  1542,  and  re  founded  by  Pope  Paul  IV.  in  1557. 
Since  1836  it  has  been  linked  with  the  diocese  of  Gloucester  (the 
conge  d'elire  being  addressed  to  the  two  chapters  alternately),  but 
arrangements  are  practically  complete  for  again  separating  the  sees. 
Daily  choral  services  at  10  and  4. 

Interior.  The  absence  of  clerestory  and  triformm  makes  this  church 
unique  among  English  cathedrals,  the  aisles  being  of  the  same  height  as 
the  nave,  and  the  arches  rising  clear  up  to  the  spring  of  the  vaulting. 
The  singular  flying  arches  across  the  aisles,  resembling  timber-work,  take 
the  place  of  the  usual  flying  buttresses.  The  arches  in  the  aisles  of  the 
Nave  are  a  clever  imitation  (by  Street)  of  those  in  the  choir,  with  a  few 
slight  modifications,  which    do  not  seem  to  be  improvements. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  of  the  nave  are  two  modern  brass  tab- 
lets of  good  design,  and  the  remains  of  an  old  reredos,  destroyed  to  make 
room  for  a  large  monument.  The  North  Transept  contains  tablets  to 
the  memory  oiSouthey,  Hugh  Conway  (d.  1885),  and  Mary  Cai-penter  (d.  1877), 
all  natives  of  Bristol.  —  On  the  E.  it  is  adjoined  by  the  Elder  Lady  Chapel, 
a  pure  E.E.  structure  (ca.  1210),  containing  some  grotesque  carvings. 

The  most  striking  feature  in  the  Choir  is  the  fine  Dec.  East  Window 
(a  so-called  Jesse  window),  most  of  the  stained  glass  in  which  dates 
from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent.-,  the  arrangement  of  its  tracery 
symbolises  the  Trinity.  The  choir  also  contains  some  interesting  monu- 
ments of  the  Berkeley  family  (see  above)  and  of  the  old  abbots.  Several  of 
these  occupy  the  singular  recesses  in  the  walls,  which  are  characteristic 
of  this  cathedral.  A  tablet  below  Abbot  Newland's  tomb  points  out 
the  grave  of  Bishop  Butler  (see  below).  Some  of  the  old  miserere  carv- 
ings deserve  attention.  —  At  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  choir-aisle  is  the  Berke- 
ley Chapel,  added  about  1340;  it  is  entered  by  a  vestibule  containing 
some  unique  work  of  this  period  (Perp.).  The  South  Transept  contains 
a  monument  to  Joseph  Butler  (1692  1752),  author  of  the  'Analogy',  who  was 
Bishop  of  Bristol  from  1738  to  1750.  From  this  transept  we  enter  the 
Cloisters,  from  the  E.  side  of  which  we  obtain  access  to  the  gem  of 
the  cathedral,  the  '-Chapter  House,  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  Norman 
chamber  in  the  kingdom.  Its  rich  mouldings  and  interlaced  arcade  are  of 
the  most  exquisite  workmanship.  Like  other  early  chapter-houses  in  Eng- 
land it  is  rectangular  in  shape.  It  contains  a  curious  old  carving  in  stone 
(the  'Harrowing  of  Hell'),  somewhat  similar  to  the  sculptures  at  Chichester 
Cathedral  (p.  54)  and  believed  by  some  to  be  of  Saxon  origin. 

The  body  of  the  church  is  open  free  to  visitors ,  but  the  sub- 
sacristan  (gratuity  optional)  keeps  the  keys  of  the  Chapter  House,  Elder 
Lady  Chapel,  and  Berkeley  Chapel. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  *  College  Gate,  an  admirably- 
preserved  Norman  archway,  with  a  smaller  one  by  its  side,  belong- 


Mayors  Chapel.  BRISTOL.  15.  Route.    119 

ing  to  the  old  abbey-tuildings.  The  mouldings  are  very  elaborate. 
The  superstructure,  with  restored  oriel  -windows,  is  Perpendicular. 
—  To  the  S.  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  fragment  of  the  old  Bishops 
Palace,  burned  by  the  rioters  in  1831,  when  the  Cathedral  was 
saved  by  the  vigour  and  determination  of  a  Nonconformist  lawyer.  — 
On  the  other  (N.)  side  of  College  Green,  nearly  opposite  the  Cathe- 
dral, is  the*  Church  of  St.  Mark  (PI.  E,  4),  known  as  the  ^Mayor's 
Chapel\  a  little  gem  of  Gothic  (E.E.  to  Perp.)  architecture,  contain- 
ing some  curious  old  monuments  and  some  old  stained  glass.  [The 
key  is  kept  by  Mr.  Jarret,  9  Lodge  St. ;  comp.  PI.  E,  3.]  In  Unity 
St.  is  the  large  new  «Sc/iooi (PI.  E,  4)  of  the  ancient  and  still  existing 
company  of  the  Merchant  Venturers,  incorporated  in  1551. 

Bristol  occupies  a  leading  position  among  English  cities  for  the  extent 
and  number  of  its  charitable  institutions;  and  the  I'lrst  place  among  its 
philanthropists  is  unanimously  accorded  to  Edward  Colston  (1636-1721), 
whose  memory  is  kept  green  by  the  annual  'Colston  Banquets'  on  Nov. 
13tb,  now  utilised  for  a  display  of  political  oratory.  The  Colston  Hall 
(PI.  F,  4),  in  Colston  St.,  with  a  fine  organ,  is  used  for  public  meetings 
and  popular  concerts;  it  can  accommodate  an  audience  of  2-3000  persons. 
Colston  is  buried  in  the  church  of  All  Saints  (PI.  F,  3),  where  a  statue 
of  him  has  been  erected.  —  The  well-known  Miiller  Orphanages,  origin- 
ally established  in  1836,  and  now  containing  upwards  of  1700  children, 
are  at  Ashley  Down  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town  (cab  2s.  Gd.).  The  Or- 
phanages are  still  conducted  on  the  principle  of  trusting  to  the  volun- 
tary and  unsolicited  contributions  of  the  charitable,  and  possess  no  endow- 
ments or  regular  income  of  any  kind.  About  1,250.(KXD^.  have  been  received 
in  this  way  since  the  scheme  was  started.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the 
difTerent  houses  on  week-days  (Mon.  excepted)  at  2.30  and  3  p.m.  (also 
3.30  p.m.  in  summer). 

From  a  visitors  point  of  view,  Fry^s  Chocolate  and  Cocoa  Worls  (1100 
hands),  in  Union  St.  (PI.  F,  3),  and  W.  D.  d-  H.  0.  Wills' s  Tobacco  Factory 
in  East  Street,  Bedminster  (PI.  G,  6),  are  among  the  most  interesting  manu- 
factories of  Bristol.  —  The  charming  little  -Amos  Vale  Cemetery.,  at  the 
S.E.  corner  of  the  town,  contains  the  grave    of  Robert  Hall  (d.   1881). 

The  pleasantest  approach  to  the  high-lying  suburb  of  Clifton 
(Hotels,  see  p.  114)  is  from  College  Green,  either  through  Park  Street 
(PI.  E,  4)  or  over  Brandon  Hill  (PI.  D,  4 ;  260  ft. ;  *View).  Or  we 
may  take  the  tramway  (p.  114)  to  the  Hotxoells  at  the  foot  of  the 
Suspension  Bridge  (PI.  A,  4),  whence  a  Lift  ascends  to  Clifton. 

The  top  of  Brandon  Hill  is  to  be  crowned  by  the  Cahot  Memorial 
Tower  (comp.  p.  115),  the  foundation-stone  of  which  was  laid  on  June  24th, 
1897,  the  400th  anniversary  of  John  Cabot's  first  sight  of  the  continent  of 
Xorth  America. 

Park  Street  ascends  from  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  Green.  No.  10 
is  the  house  in  which  Hannah  More  and  her  sisters  kept  a  school. 
To  the  left  diverges  Great  George  St..  Farther  up,  to  the  right, 
stands  the  large  and  handsome  Blind  Asylum  (PI.  E,  8;  open  to 
visitors  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  &  Thurs.,  11-12  &  2-4;  concert  on  the  lirst 
Mon.  of  each  month  at  3  p.m.).  Adjacent  is  the  Bristol  Museum 
(PI.  D,  3;  adm.  Qd. ;  on  Sat.  and  Mon.  2d.),  containing  a  fine  statue 
of  Eve  by  Baily,  collections  of  natural  history,  geology,  industrial 
products,  and  antiquities,  and  a  library  of  50,000  volumes. 


120   Route  15.  BRISTOL.  Clifton, 

Behind  the  Museum,  in  Tyndall's  Park,  is  Bristol  University  College 
(PI.  D,  3),  opened  in  1876,  and  attended  by  students  of  both  sexes.  There 
is  a  Medical  School  affiliated  to  it.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  College  is  Bristol 
Grammar  School^  founded  in  1531. 

Beyond  the  museum,  Park  St.  is  prolonged  by  Queen's  Road, 
in  wMcli,  straight  in  front  of  us,  we  soon  see  the  Victoria  Rooms 
(Pl.D,  3),  a  handsome  huilding  in  a  Grecian  style,  with  Egyptian 
details.  Opposite  it  (to  the  right)  is  the  Fine  Arts  Academy  (PI.  D,  3), 
containing  a  collection  of  modern  paintings  and  a  series  of  portraits 
in  pastel  (Geo.  Washington,  Maddison,  etc.)  drawn  during  a  resi- 
dence in  America  hy  Mr.  Sharpies.  An  annual  Exhibition  is  held 
here  in  spring  (adm.  Is.;  Qd.  on  holidays). 

From  this  point  White  Ladies  Road,  to  the  right,  leads  straight 
toDurdhamDown  (nearly  1  M.),  passing  near  Clifton  Down  Station 
(PI.  C,  2)  and  the  mouth  of  the  long  tunnel  (p.  121)  extending 
hence  below  the  Downs  to  the  Avon.  The  nearest  way  to  (1/2  ^^0 
Clifton  Down  and  the  Suspension  Bridge  is  to  the  left,  through 
Queen's  Road  (PI.  C,  3),  and  then,  at  Yictoria  Square  (PI.  C,  4), 
to  the  right.  The  lofty  spire  of  Christ  Church  (PI.  B,  4),  situated  at 
the  E.  end  of  Clifton  Down,  now  serves  as  our  land-mark. 

*CliftonDown  (PI.  A,  1-4;  235  ft.)  is  an  elevated  grass-grown 
plateau  of  limestone  formation,  dotted  with  fine  trees  and  fringed 
with  the  villas  of  well-to-do  Bristolians.  On  the  "W.  it  is  bounded 
by  the  Avon,  here  flowing  through  a  deep  and  highly  picturesque 
gorge,  the  rocky  wall  of  which  is  named  *St.  Vincent's  Rocks.  In 
the  face  of  the  rocks  is  the  Giant's  Cave  (view),  formerly  used  as 
an  oratory,  now  approached  from  the  observatory  (tunnel  6c?.,  ob- 
servatory 6c?.).  The  gorge  is  crossed  by  a  noble  ^Suspension  Bridge 
(PL  A,  4;  toll  Id.),  with  a  single  span  of  700ft.  and  250  ft.  above 
the  surface  of  the  water ;  it  originally  spanned  the  Thames  at 
Hungerford  near  Charing  Cross,  but  was  re-erected  in  its  present 
position  in  1864.  On  the  height  adjoining  the  bridge  is  an  Ob- 
servatory, containing  a  camera  obscura  and  commanding  a  lovely 
view.  On  the  W.  bank,  a  little  below  the  bridge,  a  deep  wooded 
hollow  known  as  ^Nightingale  Valley  descends  to  the  river-gorge, 
and  both  here  and  on  the  Observatory  hill  are  extensive  traces  of 
British  earthworks,  with  later  Roman  modifications.  A  zigzag  path 
descends  to  the  Hotwells,  which  have  been  known  for  400  years 
and  enjoyed  a  great  reputation  in  the  days  of  'Humphrey  Clinker' 
and  Miss  Burney's  'Evelina'.  The  spring  was  afterwards  lost  in  the 
Avon,  but  has  now  been  recovered  and  supplies  an  attractive  and 
commodious  new  Spa  and  Pump  Room,  opened  in  1897. 

Those  whose  time  is  limited  may  return  to  Bristol  from  the  Hotwells 
by  tramway;  but  even  the  most  hurried  visitor  should  at  least  go  as  far 
as  the  centre  of  the  bridge  in  order  to  enjoy  the  view  up  and  down 
stream.  [The  Avon  is  a  tidal  river,  and  it  is  very  desirable  to  visit  the 
bridge  at  high  water,  when  its  ugly,  muddy  bed  is  covered.]  Those  who 
have  time  should  either  cross  the  bridge  to  the  beautiful  Leigh  Woods 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Avon,  or  follow  the  route  described  below. 


Environs.  BRISTOL.  15.  Route.    121 

To  the  N. ,  Clifton  Down  is  continued  by  *Durdham  Down 
(310  ft.),  which  has  been  secured  for  public  use.  By  crossing  Durd- 
ham  Down  on  the  river  side  we  reach  the  (2/4  M.)  Sea  Wall,  which 
commands  a  fine  view.  A  little  farther  on  is  a  picturesque  tower, 
known  as  Cook's  Folly,  now  forming  part  of  a  villa.  On  the  land- 
ward side  of  Durdham  Down  are  the  *  Zoological  Gardens  (PI.  B,  2; 
a  dm.  6d.).  Nearer  Clifton  is  Clifton  College  (PI.  B,  2),  founded  in 
1862,  now  attended  by  650  pupils,  and  ranking  among  the  chief 
public  schools  of  England.  Its  close  forms  one  of  the  prettiest 
cricket-grounds  in  the  country.  Near  the  College  stands  All  Saints 
(PI.  C,  2),  a  modern  church  by  Street,  noticeable  for  the  unusual 
design  of  its  nave  and  aisles.  —  We  may  return  to  Bristol  by  the 
tramway  starting  from  St.  Johns  Church  (PI.  C,  1)  and  traversing 
White  Ladies  Road,  or  by  train  from  Clifton  Down  Station  (PI.  C,  2). 

Excursions.  About  31/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Clifton  lies  King's  Weston^  a 
country-house  on  the  Avon,  with  a  beautiful  park.  Adjacent,  to  the  E., 
is  King's  Weston  Down,  with  a  well-defined  British  camp,  and  to  the  W., 
Penpole  Point,  commanding  a  charming  view.  At  the  S.W.  base  of  the  latter, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  is  the  village  of  Shirehampton  (see  below). 
About  11/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  King's  Weston,  in  a  pleasant  dale,  is  Blaize 
Castle,  containing  a  fine  collection  of  paintings.  The  grounds  (visitors 
admitted  on  Thurs.  after  previous  application)  command  excellent  views 
of  the  Bristol  Channel  and  the  coast  of  S.  Wales.  On  Blaize  Hill  is 
another  of  the  numerous  ancient  entrenchments  round  Bristol.  —  Dundry 
Churchy  with  its  fine  tower,  4  M.  to  the  S.E.,  on  the  top  of  a  lofty  down 
(790  ft.),  is  a  fine  point  of  view  and  itself  a  conspicuous  object  in  the 
view  from  Clifton  Down  (p.  120).  —  Among  the  more  distant  points  of 
interest  within  the  limits  of  a  dav's  excursion  from  Bristol  are  Chepstow 
(p.  177)  and  Tintern  Alhey  (p.  il^V,  Wells  (p.  123),  Glastonhnru  (p.  125).  the 
Cheddar  Cliffs  (p.  122),  Bath  (p.  109),  Weston  (p.  126),  and  Glevedon  (p.  122). 

From  Bristol  to  Portishead,  IIV2  M.,  railway  in  '/z-'A  ^^'  (fares 
25.,  Is.  3rf.,  iVfid.),  skirting  the  S.  bank  of  the  Avon.  —  Portishead  (Royal 
Pier  Hotel)  is  a  small  watering-place  and  residential  suburb  on  the  Se- 
vern estuary,  with  docks  belonging  to  Bristol. 

From  Bristol  TO  AvoNMOUTH,  9^4  51.,  railway  in  V2  lir.  (fares  Is.  6rf., 
Is.,  9(i.).  —  This  line  passes  several  suburban  stations  and  beyond  a 
tunnel,  1  M.  long  (p.  120),  emerges  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Avon.  6V4  51. 
Sea  Mills;  V/t  M.  Shirehampton  (see  above).  —  9^/4  M.  Avonmouth  (Hotel) 
has  a  pier  and  extensive  docks  (now  belonging  to  the  city  of  Bristol). 

From  Bristol  to  Severn  Tunnel  Junction  (for  S.  Wales),  17  M., 
G.  W.  Railway  in  34  hr.  (fares  4s.,  2s.  6(i.,  2s.).  —  The  first  stationB 
are  (1  M. )  Lawrence  Hill  and  (IV4  M.)  Stapleton  Road,  the  birthplace  of 
Hannah  More  (d.  1833).  Near  (2^/2  M.)  Ashley  Hill  are  the  Orphan  Asylums 
of  George  Miiller  (see  p.  119).  Beyond  (43/4  M.)  Filton  and  (6V2  M.)  Patchway  the 
train  passes  through  a  tunnel  3/^  M.  long  and  reaches  (91/2  M.)  Pilning. 
The  train  now  passes  beneath  the  estuary  of  the  Severn  by  means  of  the 
'Severn  Tunnel,  one  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  railway  engineering, 
opened  for  passenger  traffic  in  Dec,  1886.  The  estuary  here  is  upwards 
of  21/4  M.  wide,  but  the  total  length  of  the  tunnel  is  4'/3  M.  The  crown 
of  the  arch  is  at  a  depth  lielow  the  bed  of  the  river  varying  from  40  ft. 
to  100  ft.  The  tunnel  is  26  ft.  wide  and  20  ft.  high,  and  is  traversed 
by  two  lines  of  rails;  its  total  cost  was  nearly  two  millions  sterling.  — 
We  join  the  South  Wales  Railway  at  (17  M.)  Severn  Tunnel  Junction 
(comp.  p.  193),  on  the  other  side  of  the  Severn. 

From  Bristol  to  Frome,  24V4  M.,  G.  W.  Railway  in  l-i'A  hr.  (fares 
4s. ,  2s.  Gd.  ,  2s.),  —  Near  (7  M.)  Pensford  are  the  great  stone  circles 
of  Stanton  Drew  (1  M.  to  the  W.).     From  (10  M.)  Hallatrow  a  short  branch 


122     Route  16.  CLEVEDON.  From  Bristol 

runs  to  Camerton.  —  16  M.  Radstock  (Waldegrave  Arms).  —  24^/2  M.  Frome 
(Crown;  G^eorc/eJ,  a  thriving  agricultural  and  woollen-manufacturing  town, 
possesses  a  noble  Dec.  cliurch,  splendidly  restored  by  the  Rev.  W.  J.  E. 
Bennett,  the  late  incumbent  (d.  1886),  who  also  erected  the  'Stations  of 
the  Cross'  in  the  niches  of  the  wall  beside  the  steps  leading  to  the  N. 
portal.  Bishop  Ken  (d.  1711)  is  buried  in  the  graveyard,  under  the 
chancel-window.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  church,  outside,  is  the  Bennett 
Memorial  Cross.  We  here  join  the  line  from  Chippenham  and  Westbury 
to  Yeovil  (comp.  pp.  109,  102).     Longleat  (p.  113j  lies  3  M.  to  the  S.E. 

From  Bristol  to  Taunton  and  Exeter,  see  R.  16;  to  Gloucester,  Chelten- 
ham,  Worcester,  Birmingham,  Derby,  and  the  North,  see  R.  24. 

16.    From  Bristol  to  Exeter. 

Wells. 

751/2  M.  Great  Western  Railway  in  I3/4-4  hrs.  (12s.  Qd.,  8s.,  6s. 
S^/idl).  —  The  train  passes  through  a  flat  country,  with  few  views  of  the  sea. 

Beyond  the  suburban  station  of  (1  M.)  Bedminster  the  train 
affords  a  view  of  the  Suspension  Bridge  (p.  120)  to  the  right  and 
passes  between  Dundry  Hill  (790  ft. ;  p.  121)  on  the  left  and  Leigh 
Down  on  the  right.  5^/4  M,  Flax  -  Bourton  ■  8  M.  Nailsea;  12  M. 
Yatton,  the  junction  for  Clevedon  and  Wells,  with  an  interesting 
church,  visible  to  the  left  of  the  line. 

Clevedon  (Walton  Park;  Royal  Pier;  Bristol),  a  small  watering-place 
4M.  to  the  N.W.,  has  an  esplanade,  a  pier,  and  a  good  beach.  Henry  Hallam 
(d.  1859),  the  historian,  and  his  son  Arthur  (d.  1833),  the  subject  of 
Tennyson's  'In  Memoriam',  are  buried  in  Clevedon  parish-church  (St.  An- 
drew's). Coleridge  lived  at  Myrtle  Cottage  here  for  some  time  after  his 
marriage  and  the  abandonment  of  his  Susquehanna  scheme(1795).  ^Clevedon 
Court,  the  'Castlewood'  of  'Esmond',  a  fine  old  baronial  mansion,  with  a 
facade  of  the  i4th  cent.,  was  seriously  injured  by  fire  in  1882  5  the  grounds 
are  open  on  Thurs.,  2-5.  Above  Clevedon  rises  Dial  Hill,  an  excellent 
point  of  view,  about  1  M.  from  which  are  the  ruins  of  Walton  Castle. 
About  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  a  British  entrenchment  named  Cadbury  Camp 
(not  to  be  confounded  with  Cadbury  Castle,  p.  102);  at  its  base  is  the 
ancient  parish-church  of  Tickenham,  dedicated  to  SS.  Quiricus  and  Julietta. 


From  Yatton  to  Wells,  18  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  3s.,  Is. 
lOd.,  Is.  b^lid.').  The  first  station  is  (II/2  M.)  Congresbury,  with 
a  vicarage  of  the  15th  cent,  and  a  large  village-cross.  John  Locke 
(1632-1704)  was  born  at  Wrington,  2  M.  to  the  E.  —  8  M.  Ax- 
bridge  (Lamb),  an  ancient  little  town,  with  interesting  brasses 
in  its  church.  —  Near  (9^/2  M.)  Cheddar  (Cheddar  Cliffs  Hotel ; 
Bath  Arms)  are  '^Cheddar  Cliffs  (400-500  ft.),  the  highest  lime- 
stone cliffs  in  the  country,  and  the  *  Cheddar  Caverns,  containing 
interesting  stalactites  (adm.  to  each  of  the  two  principal  caves  Is. ; 
Cox's  by  far  the  finer). 

The  environs  of  Cheddar  comprise  many  other  charming  points  for 
excursions,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  Black  Down  (1065  ft.),  the 
highest  of  the  Mendip  Hills,  8  M.  to  the  N.  The  pastures  of  the  district  are 
very  rich,  and  'Cheddar  Cheese'  has  long  been  famous.  —  About  31/2  M.  to 
the  S.  of  Cheddar  station  is  Wedmore,  where  King  Alfred  made  peace  with 
the  Danes  in  878.    The  interesting  church  dates  from  the  13-15th  centuries. 

I672  M.  Wookey  is  the  station  for  the   Wookey  Hole  Cavern 


to  Exeter.  WELLS.  16.  Route.     123 

(adm.  Is.  6d. ;  a  party  is.  each),  a  curious  cavern,  near  which  large 
quantities  of  hones  (elephant,  hyaena,  etc.)  have  been  found. 

18  M.  Wells.  —  Hotels.  Swan,  Sadler  St.,  near  the  Ciithedral,  well 
spoken  of;  Star,  High  St. ;  Mitre,  Sadler  St.,  R.  &  A.  4«.  —  There  are 
two  Railway  Stations  at  Wells,  the  Great  Western,  and  that  of  the  Somer- 
set d-  Dorset  Line  (comp.  p.  113). 

Wells,  a  small  and  ancient  city  with  4822  inhah.,  is  prettily 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Mendip  Hills.  It  has  been  the  see  of  a 
bishop  since  the  10th  cent,  (see  below)  and  is  perhaps  the  most 
characteristic  cathedral-city  in  England  (Plan,  see  p.  115). 

In  Wells  the  interest  of  'the  cathedral  church  and  its  appurtenances 
is  not  only  primary  but  absorbing.  They  are  not  only  the  chief  orna- 
ment of  the  place;  they  are  the  place  itself.  The  whole  history  of  Wells 
is  the  history  of  the  bishoprick  and  of  its  church.  It  was  never  a  royal 
dwelling-place;  it  was  never  a  place  of  commercial  importance;  it  was 
never  a  place  of  military  strength.  The  whole  interest  of  the  city  is 
ecclesiasticar  {Freeman's  'History  of  the  Cathedral  Church  of  Wells'). 

The  *Catliedral,  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  is,  in  its  present 
condition,  predominantly  an  E.E.  building  of  the  first  half  of  the 
13th  cent. ,  and  Bishop  {Joceline  1206-42)  is  commonly  called 
the  'Fundator  Alter',  though  recent  researches  assign  a  considerable 
share  in  the  work  to  Bishop  Fitz- Joceline  (1174-91),  one  of  his  pre- 
decessors (comp.  p.  xlv).  It  is  the  third  church  on  the  same  site. 
The  first  (perhaps  of  wood)  was  erected  in  the  8th  cent,  by  the 
Saxon  king  Ina,  as  a  collegiate  church  for  a  body  of  secular  clergy. 
This  was  afterwards  replaced  by  a  Norman  cathedral  (1135-66),  some 
fragments  of  the  masonry  of  which  still  remain.  The  bishopric  was 
founded  in  909  by  Edward  the  Elder,  as  the  bishopric  of  Somerset, 
and  for  a  time  the  see  was  afterwards  removed  to  Bath  (comp. 
p.  111).  The  church  as  designed  by  Bishop  Joceline  was  finished 
by  the  erection  of  the  Chapter  House  at  the  end  of  the  13th  century. 
Thereafter  a  complete  transformation  of  the  E.  part  of  the  church 
seems  to  have  been  taken  in  hand,  beginning  with  the  Lady  Chapel 
(ca.  1320),  while  the  Presbytery,  as  it  now  stands,  dates  from  about 
1350.  The  upper  part  of  the  Central  Toxcer,  165  ft.  high,  also  be- 
longs to  the  early  part  of  the  14th  century.  The  Vicars'  Close  was 
added  in  the  14th  cent,  and  partly  altered  in  the  15th.  The  upper 
part  of  the  W.  Towers  and  Cloisters  are  Perpendicular.  —  Though 
comparatively  small  in  size  (383  ft.  long;  82ft.  wide  across  the 
nave  and  aisles;  67-73 ft.  high).  Wells  Cathedral  takes  rank  among 
the  finest  churches  in  England,  and  some  authorities  do  not  hesitate 
to  give  it  the  first  place  of  all.  The  best  general  *View  of  it  is 
obtained  from  the  Shepton  Mallet  road,  about  1/4  ^1-  from  the  city. 

Mr.  Freeman  asserts  that  the  group  of  ecclesiastical  buildings  at  Wells 
has  no  rival  either  in  its  own  island  or  beyond  the  sea.  'To  most  of 
these  objects,  taken  singly,  it  would  be  easy  to  find  rivals  which  would 
equal  or  surpass  them.  The  church  itself  cannot  from  mere  lack  of  bulk 
hold  its  ground  against  the  soaring  apse  of  Amiens,  or  against  the  windows 
ranging,  tier  above  tier,  in  the  mighty  eastern  gable  of  Ely.  The  cloister 
cannot  measure  itself  with  Gloucester  or  Salisbury;  the  chapter-house 
lacks  the  soaring  roofs  of  York  and  Lincoln;    the  palace  itself  finds  its 


124     Route  16.  WELLS.  From  Bristol 

rival  in  the  ruined  pile  of  St.  David's.  The  peculiar  charm  and  glory 
of  Wells  lies  in  the  union  and  harmonious  grouping  of  air.  It  has  pre- 
served its  ancient  buildings  and  arrangements  more  perfectly  than  any 
other  English  cathedral;  and  it  has  been  uninterruptedly  in  the  possession 
of  a  chapter  of  secular  canons.     Comp.  the  Introduction,  p.  xliii. 

We  enter  the  Cathedral  Close  by  Browne's  Gate  (the  'Dean's 
Eye'),  in  Sadler  St.,  or  "by  the  Penniless  Porch  ('Palace  Eye),  in 
the  market-place,  built  by  Bishop  Beckington  (1443-64).  The 
chief  exterior  glory  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  beautiful  West  Fofade, 
147  ft.  wide,  and  most  elaborately  adorned  with  arcading  and  sculp- 
tures (600  figures  in  all).  It  was  the  first  part  of  the  present  church 
to  be  completed,  and  has  lately  been  restored  with  great  care  and 
tact.  The  sculptures,  which  are  believed  to  be  the  work  of  native 
artists,  were  "added  about  1280,  almost  at  the  same  time  that  Nic- 
colo  Pisano  was  reviving  the  art  of  sculpture  in  Italy.  Beautiful 
as  this  facade  is,  it  shares  with  the  W.  fronts  of  Lincoln  and  Rouen 
the  reproach  of  being  architecturally  a  mere  mask,  since  the  towers 
are  really  placed  outside  of  the  aisles  of  which  they  affect  to  form 
the  ends.  The  North  Porch,  with  its  fine  mouldings,  is  a  noteworthy 
example  of  the  beginning  of  the  E.E.  period.  Before  entering  the 
Cathedral  we  should  also  notice  the  exterior  of  the  Chapter  House 
and  the  curious  gallery  running  along  the  Chain  Gate  and  connecting 
the  church  with  the  Vicars'  Close. 

Interior  (services  at  10  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m.-,  adm.  to  choir  Qd.).  The 
best  view  of  the  restored  interior  is  obtained  from  the  W.  end,  and 
the  general  effect  is  rich  and  imposing.  The  Nave,  which  is  192  ft. 
long,  is  somewhat  narrow  in  proportion  to  its  height,  and  it  has  the 
distinct  character  (according  to  Mr.  Freeman)  of  having  its  main  lines 
horizontal  rather  than  vertical.  Among  the  first  features  to  strike  the 
eye  are  the  curious  inverted  arches  inserted  in  1338  to  prop  up  the  central 
tower,  and  forming  the  general  outline  of  a  St.  Andrews  Cross.  The 
foliage  of  the  capitals  is  very  elaborate,  and  is  interspersed  with  birds 
and  animals.  The  triforium  is  carried  backwards  over  the  aisles.  At  the 
E.  end  of  the  nave  are  two  interesting  Chantries  of  the  15th  cent.  (Bishop 
Bubwith,  d.  1424;  Hugh  Sugar,  d,  1489),  and  on  the  S.  side,  in  the  centre, 
is  a  Minstrels'  Gallery,  also  of  the  Perp.  period.  The  stained  glass  in  the 
W.  window  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  was  mainly 
brought  from  abroad.  The  colouring  on  the  vault  is  a  modern  reproduc- 
tion from  traces  of  the  original  design.  The  stone  pulpit  was  erected  in 
1541-47.  —  The  Transepts  resemble  the  nave  in  general  character  and 
are  flanked  with  aisles.  The  capitals  of  the  piers  here  are  very  rich  and 
quaint.  The  fan-vaulting  above  the  cross  is  fine.  The  S.  transept  contains 
some  interesting  monuments,  including  the  remains  of  the  Perp.  chantry 
of  Bishop  Beckington  (d.  1464).  In  the  N.  transept,  the  W.  aisle  of  which  is 
shut  off  by  a  Perp.  screen  and  divided  into  two  chapels,  is  a  curious  old  Clock, 
with  figures  set  in  motion  at  the  hours,  originally  constructed  by  a  monk 
of  Glastonbury  about  1325  (works  modern ;  original  in  S.  Kensington  Museum). 

The  'Choie,  which  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  Perp.  screen 
surmounted  by  the  organ,  forms  with  the  Presbytery  and  Lady  Chapel 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  ecclesiastical  interiors'  in  this  country.  The 
general  style  is  Early  or  Geometrical  Decorated.  The  stalls  are  modern,  but 
the  old  misericords  have  been  preserved.  The  fine  window  at  the  E.  end 
and  some  of  the  adjoining  windows  in  the  clerestory  are  filled  with  ancient 
glass ;  and  a  memorial  window  to  Bishop  Ken  (d.  1711)  was  inserted  in 
theN.  aisle  in  1885.  At  the  back  of  the  altar  is  a  \ovr  Screen,  forming  the 
end  of  the  choir  proper.  The  Presbytery,  in  a  rich  Dec.  style,  is  connected 
with  the  Lady  Chapel  by  a  small  transept  containing  four  chapels.  Bishop 


to  Exeter.  GLASTONBURY.  16.  Route.     125 

Joceline  (p.  123)  is  interred  in  the  centre  of  the  choir,  though  his  tomb 
has  been  destroyed;  and  there  are  several  interesting  monuments  of  bishops 
and  others  in  the  aisles  and  chapels. 

The  apsidal  termination  of  the  cathedral  is  formed  by  the*LADT  Chapel, 
with  its  'matchless  grouping  of  slender  pillars  and  no  less  matchless  har- 
mony of  colour'.  It  also  belongs  to  the  early  Dec.  period,  and  the  stained 
glass,  made  up  chiefly  of  fragments  from  other  parts  of  the  church,  is  of 
contemporary  date.  The  Chapel  of  St.  John.,  or  S.E.  transept,  contains  a 
brass  of  1618  with  a  curious  Latin  epitaph. 

The  octagonal  'Chapter  House  ,  with  its  beautiful  Geometrical 
window-tracery,  dates  from  about  the  year  1300,  and  is  a  fine  example 
of  the  period.  The  ribs  of  the  vaulting  radiate  from  a  large  shafted  column 
in  the  centre.  The  Chapter  House  is  reached  from  the  Cathedral  by  a 
beautiful  ''Staircase.^  with  admirable  details,  ascending  from  the  E.  aisle 
of  the  N.  Transept  and  leading  also  to  the  bridge  above  the  Chain  Gate 
(see  p.  124).  The  separation  of  the  Chapter  House  from  the  Cloisters  is  not 
unusual  in  churches  of  the  old  or  secular  foundation.  Below  the  Chapter 
House  is  a  curious  Undercroft  or  Crypt  (entered  from  the  N.  choir-aisle), 
containing  various  antiquarian  relics. 

The  Central  Tower,  ascended  by  a  staircase  from  the  S.  Transept, 
affords  an  extensive  *View.  —  From  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  same  transept 
we  enter  the  spacious  Perp.  Cloisters,  which  have  no  walk  on  the  N. 
side.     The  Chapter  Library  is  over  the  E.  alley  of  the  cloisters. 

To  the  S.  ot  the  Cathedral,  beyond  the  cb-isters,  is  the  picturesque 
•Episcopal  Palace,  built  by  Bishop  Joceline  (p.  123)  and  surrounded  with 
a  moat  and  bastioned  wall  by  Bishop  Kalph  of  Shrewsbury  11329-63).  The 
most  interesting  features  are' the  ruins  of  the  Great  Hall,  added  in  1274- 
92,  and  the  Dec.  Chapel.  The  actual  residence  of  the  bishop  is  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  quadrangle.  The  vaulted  lower  floor,  originally  used  for  cel- 
lars, has  been  converted  into  a  dining-room  and  entrance-hall.  The  grounds 
are  shown  by  the  lodge-keeper  on  application  (sometimes  also  the  crypt). 

—  On  the  N. 'side  of  the  Cathedral  stands  \\iq  Deanery.,  a  good  example  of 
a  mansion  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  turrets,  buttresses,  and  battlements.  It 
has  sufl'ered  considerably  from  modern  restoration,  but  not  so  much  as 
the  Archdeaconrv  (late  13th  cent.),  a  little  farther  to  the  E.,  opposite  the  X. 
porch.  Some  of  the  Canons'"  Houses  are  also  interesting  loth  cent^  build- 
ings. Another  important  ecclesiastical  building  at  Wells  is  the_  ^Vicars' 
Close,  a  highly  picturesque  enclosure,  containing  a  chapel,  a  library,  a 
common  hall,  and  residences  for  several  priest  and  lay  vicars  (originally  42). 
One  house  has  been  restored  to  its  original  condition  as  in  the  16th  cen- 
turv.  The  Vicars'  Close  communicates  with  the  Cathedral  by  a  unique 
Gallery  or  Bridge  (1460),  passing  above  the  Chain  Gate  (comp.  p.  124). 

After  the  cathedral  group  the  most  interesting  building  in  Wells 
is  St.  Cuthbert's  Church,  near  the  G.W.R.  station,  originally  an  E.E. 
edifice,  but  transformed  in  the  Perp.  period.  The  W.  tower  is  par- 
ticularly fine.     Near  this  church  are  Bishop  BuhwitKs  Almshouses. 

—  A  good  view  of  the  city  is  obtained  from  the  Tor  Hill,  on  the 
way  to  which  we  pass  the  copious  Springs  of  St.  Andrew,  the  chief 
of  the  'wells'  that  give  name  to  the  city.  They  feed  the  moat  of 
the  Episcopal  Palace. 

A  branch-line  runs  S.  from  Wells  to  &h  M.)  Glastonbury  (George,  a 
quaint  15th  cent,  structure;  Crown,  well  spoken  of;  Red  Lion),  an  ancient 
town,  renowned  in  fable  as  the  spot  where  Joseph  of  Arimathtea  founded  the 
first  Christian  church  in  England,  and  as  the  Isle  of  Avalon,  where  King  Ar- 
thur and  Queen  Guinevere  were  buried.  In  sober  fact  'Glastonbury  Abbey  f 
can  trace  its  foundation  back  to  the  6th  cent,  and  is  'the  one  great  in- 
stitution which  bore  up  untouched  through  the  storm  of  English  Conquest, 


t  See  Willis''s  'Architectural  History  of  Glastonbury  Abbey' 


126     Route  16.      WESTON-SUPER-MARE.         From  Bristol 

the  one  great  tie  whicli  binds  our  race  to  the  race  whicli  went  before 
us,  and  which  binds  the  church  of  the  last  1300  years  to  the  earlier  days 
of  Christianity  in  Britain'  (Freeman;  comp.  p.  xxxiv).  King  Ina  founded 
a  monastery  here  in  the  8th  cent,  and  dedicated  it  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  •,  and 
in  the  10th  cent.  Si.  Dunstan,  who  was  born  and  educated  at  Glastonbury, 
built  a  church  of  stone  to  the  E.  of  the  primitive  British  church  of  wattles 
and  timber.  These  two  churches  stood  side  by  side  till  the  12th  cent., 
when  both  were  pulled  down  to  make  way  for  a  Norman  edifice  on  a 
larger  and  grander  scale.  Scarcely  was  this  finished,  however,  when  it 
was  burned  down  by  a  fire,  which  also  destroyed  the  ^Vetusta  Ecclesia\ 
or  little  wicker  chapel  of  the  early  missionaries,  carefully  kept  as  a  sacred 
relic.  Henry  II,  immediately  began  to  rebuild  the  church  on  a  yet  larger 
scale ,  and  it  was  finished  about  a  century  after  his  death.  Its  length 
when  completed  was  528  ft.,  and  it  covered  the  entire  area  occupied  by 
the  two  earlier  churches.  The  Abbey  was  suppressed  and  dismantled  by 
Henry  VIII.,  who  hanged  the  last  abbot  on  Glastonbury  Tor.  The  ruins, 
now  in  the  grounds  of  a  private  house  (adm.  6d.),  were  long  used  as  the 
stone  quarry  of  the  district  and  are  thus  comparatively  scanty.  The  most 
interesting  are  those  of  the  "Chapel  of  the  Virgin  or  St.  Joseph,  erected 
by  Henry  II.  on  the  exact  site  of  the  Vetusta  Ecclesia,  at  the  W.  end  of 
the  great  church  which  he  began.  There  also  exist  a  transeptal  chapel, 
parts  of  the  S.  wall  of  the  nave  and  choir,  two  piers  of  the  great 
tower,  and  some  traces  of  the  cloisters.  Nearly  all  are  in  the  transition 
Norman  style,  but  the  crypt  below  St.  Joseph's  Chapel  is  a  15th  cent, 
addition.  The  most  important  relic  of  the  secular  buildings  of  the  abbey 
is  the  massive  stone  Kitchen,  with  four  large  fire-places,  probably  dating 
from  the  14th  century.  Among  the  buildings  which  led  Mr.  Parker  to 
describe  Glastonbury  as  'a  perfect  store  of  domestic  antiquities'  are  the 
George  Inn  (see  p.  125),  originally  erected  as  an  inn  for  pilgrims  to  the 
abbey;  the  so-called  Tribunal.,  also  in  the  High  St.;  and  ihe,  AhboVs  Barn, 
in  Chilkwell  St.  The  church  oi  St.  John  the  Baptist  has  a  fine  Perp.  tower. 
An  Archaeological  Museum  was  founded  at  Glastonbury  in  1887.  The  site 
of  the  Glastonbury  Thorn,  which  sprang  miraculously  from  Joseph  of 
Arimathsea's  staff,  and  always  blossomed  on  Christmas  Day,  is  marked  by 
a  stone  inscribed  'I.  A.  Anno  D.  XXXI'.  (on  Wearyall  Hill,  to  the  right 
of  the  road  from  the  station  to  the  town).  The  tree  was  cut  down  by  a 
Puritan  fanatic.  —  A  good  view  of  the  environs  is  obtained  from  the  top 
of  Glastonbury  Tor  (500  ft.).  The  tower  is  a  relic  of  an  old  pilgrims'  chapel. 
A  prehistoric  village,  covering  five  acres,  was  discovered  in  1892  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  town.  —  Sharpham  Park  (now  a  farmhouse),  the  birthplace 
of  Henry  Fielding  (1707-54)  lies  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  —  From  Glastonbury 
to  Highbridge  and  Templecombe,  see  p.  113. 

Beyond  Wells  the  railway  fromYatton  runs  on  to  Shepton  Mallet 
(p.  113)  and  Witham  (p.  113). 


Beyond  Yatton  (p.  122)  tlie  Mendip  Hills  come  into  sight  on 
the  left.  At  (16^/4  M.)  Worle  a  short  loop-line  diverges  to  (2  M.) 
Weston-super-Mare  (Royal,  pens,  from  10s.  6d.;  Grand  Atlantic; 
Imperial;  Queen's;  Claremont;  Railway ;  Plough;  Shaftesbury  Tem- 
perance; Bellevue  Restaurant),  a  fashionable  and  well-sheltered 
watering-place  with  15,869  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Bristol  Channel 
opposite  the  islands  of  Steep  and  Flat  Holm.  The  beach  is  sandy, 
but  at  low  water  is  marred  by  the  muddy  deposits  of  the  Severn. 
The  bay,  however,  affords  abundant  opportunity  for  rowing  and 
sailing.  One  of  the  favourite  promenades  is  the  iron  pier  connect- 
ing the  mainland  with  the  rocky  islet  of  Bearnback  or  Bimbeck. 
The  esplanade  is  more  than  2  M.  in  length.   There  are  golf-links 


to  Exeter.  TAUNTON.  16.  Route.     127 

near  tlie  town  and  a  good  swimming  bath  (6d.).  The  Museum  (adm. 
3d.)  contains  objects  discovered  at  Worlesbury  Camp  (see  below). 

Among  tlie  numerous  pleasant  points  near  Weston-super-Mare  are  the 
well-wooded  Worlesbury  or  Worle  Hill  (306  ft.),  IV2  M.  to  the  N.,  crowned 
by  an  old  camp  and  commanding  a  magnificent  view,  Uphill  Old  Church, 
2  M.  to  the  S.,  on  a  rocky  promontory  affording  an  extensive  view,  Wood- 
spring  Priori/,  4  M.  to  the  N. ;  Brean  J)own,  projecting  into  the  sea  to 
the  S.,  beyond  Uphill. 

211/4  M.  Bleadon-Uphill.  At  (243/4  M.)  Brent  Knoll  the  coni- 
cal green  hill  of  that  name  rises  to  the  left.  —  We  now  cross  the 
Axe  and  reach  (27  M.)  Highbridge  and  (303/4  M.)  Dunball. 

At  Highbridge  the  G.  W.  Kailway  intersects  the  Somerset  and  Dorset 
line  from  Burnham  (Queen's;  Clarence),  a  small  watering-place  IV2  M.  to 
the  W.,  to  (12  M.)  Glastonbury  (p.  125;  fares  2s.  7rf. ,  U.  8(/. ,  !«.),  Ever- 
creech  Junction  (p.  113),  and  Tempkcombe  (p.  102). 

331/4  M.  Bridgwater  (Royal  Clarence;  Bristol;  Railway)^  an  an- 
cient town  of  12,436  inhab.,  on  the  Barrett^  6  M.  from  the  sea.  It 
was  taken  by  storm  by  Gen.  Fairfax  in  J  645.  The  handsome  Church 
of  St.  Mary,  dating  from  1420,  possesses  a  slender  spire,  175  ft. 
high,  and  contains  a  valuable  altar-piece  ('Descent  from  the  Cross') 
of  the  Italian  School.  St.  John's  is  a  tasteful  modern  edifice.  The 
'Bath  Bricks'  manufactured  here  are  made  of  the  peculiar  slime 
deposited  by  the  river.  During  spring-tides  the  Parrett  is  subject 
to  a  'Bore',  or  tidal  wave,  6-9  ft.  in  height.  Admiral  Blake  (1599- 
1657)  was  born  in  a  house  still  standing  near  the  iron  bridge. 

A  branch-line  runs  from  Bridgwater  via  Cossington  to  Olastonbury^ 
joining  the  line  from  Burnham  (see  above)  at  Edington  Junction. 

About  5  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Bridgwater  lies  Sedgemoor,  where  the 
Duke  of  Monmouth  was  defeated  in  1685:  the  last  fight  deserving  the 
name  of  battle  that  has  been  fought  on  Elnglish  ground.  —  At  Nether 
Stowey,  8  M.  to  the  W.,  Coleridge  lived  in  1796-98  and  wrote  his  'Ancient 
Mariner'.  In  1797  Wordsworth  was  his  neighbour  at  Alfoxden  House. 
Nether  Stowey  lies  near  the  Quantock  Hills,  among  which  numerous 
pleasant  excursions  may  be  made. 

The  train  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Tone  to  (39  M.)  Durston, 
whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Yeovil  (p.  102).  [The  first  station 
on  this  branch  is  Athelney ,  the  reputed  scene  of  King  Alfred's 
legendary  adventure  with  the  cakes.]  To  the  right  rise  the  Quantock 
Hills  (see  above).  The  fine  church-towers  of  Taunton  soon  come 
into  sight  on  the  left. 

45  M.  Tannton  (*London;  Castle;  ^Railway;  Clarke's;  Nag's 
Head,  plain,  R.  &A.  Is.  3d.),  the  county-town  of  Somersetshire, 
is  an  ancient  and  well-built  town  with  18,026  inhab.,  situated  in 
the  picturesque  and  fertile  vale  of  Taunton  Deane.  The  church  of 
*St.  Mary  Magdalen  is  a  large  and  good  example  of  the  Perp.  style, 
with  double  aisles,  a  finely  carved  roof,  and  a  fine  modern  pulpit. 
The  tower,  155  ft.  high,  is  elaborately  embellished  with  pinnacles, 
battlements,  and  carvings.  St.  James's  Church  has  also  a  good  tower. 
The  Castle,  originally  founded  about  700  A.D.,  dates  in  its  present 
form  from  the  11th  cent.,  with  additions  of  the  13th  and  16th  cen- 
turies. It  now  contains  the  interesting  museum  of  the  Somersetshire 


\2S   Route  16.  MINEHEAD. 

Archaeological  Society  (3idTii.  Id.).  The  Great  Hall,  entered  from  the 
inner  ward,  was  formerly  the  Assize  Court;  here  Judge  Jeffreys  held 
the  'Bloody  Assizes'  of  1685,  when  hundreds  of  prisoners  were  con- 
demned to  death  or  the  plantations.  The  Shire  Hall  contains  busts 
of  John  Pym,  Admiral  Blake,  John  Locke,  Bishop  Ken,  Henry 
Fielding,  and  other  famous  natives  of  Somersetshire.  In  1645  the 
town  was  gallantly  defended  hy  Adm.  Blake  against  the  Royalists. 
Among  the  other  chief  buildings  are  the  large  Independent,  Queen's, 
and  King^s  Colleges ,  the  Barracks,  and  the  Somerset  County  Club. 

From  Taunton  to  Minehead,  24^/4  M.,  G.  W.  Railway  in  IV4  hr. 
(fares  is.,  2s.  Qd.,  2s.  ^jid.).  This  line  forms  the  direct  railway -route 
to  Exmoor  and  Lynton  (see  R.  22)  from  the  N.  —  The  train  diverges  from 
the  main-line  at  (2  M.)  Norton  Fitzwarren  and  follows  a  beautiful  valley 
between  the  Quantock  Bills  on  the  E.  and  the  Brendon  Hills  on  the  W., 
wliich  is  also  traversed  by  a  picturesque  road.  —  5M.  Bishop's  Lydeard, 
with  an  interesting  Perp.  church;  9  M.  Crowcombe;  li^/i  M.  Stogumher. 
To  the  E.  of  (15  M.)  Williton  is  the  mansion  of  *S7.  Audries,  with  a  fine 
collection  of  paintings  and  curios.  —  I63/4M.  TV'a<c/ie<  (West  Somerset  Hotel) 
is  the  junction  of  a  short  local  line  to  Combe  Roice.  —  19 M.  Washford  (Inn) 
is  the  station  for  "Cleeve  Abbey,  an  interesting  Cistercian  ruin,  V4  51.  to  the 
S.  (adm.  is.),  the  chief  features  of  which  are  the  gate-house  (13th  cent.), 
part  of  the  cloisters  (15th  cent.),  the  dormitory,  the  refectory  (15th  cent.), 
the  common  room,  and  the  foundations  of  the  church.  —  2IV4  31.  Blue 
Anchor.  —  23  M.  Dunster  (Luttrell  Arms,  a  quaint  16th  cent,  house),  with 
a  majestic  Elizabethan  castle  (seen  to  the  left  of  the  railway),  situated 
in  a  large  park,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  on  Mon.,  Wed..  Thurs., 
and  Sat.  (tickets.  3d.  each,  at  the  inn).  Adjacent  is  Conegar  Hill,  surmount- 
ed by  a  tower.  The  Church  is  a  Perp.  (nave)  and  E.E.  (choir)  edifice, 
with  a  fine  Perp.  screen. 

243/4  M.  Minehead  (Beach  Hotel,  E.  &  A.  4«.,  Esplanade,  both  near 
the  station  and  the  shore;  Feathers,  in  the  town,  1/2  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion; Wdlingtoii  Temperance)  \s  a  rising  little  watering-place  at  the  E.  base 
of  North  Hill,  with  a  fair  beach,  an  esplanade,  golf-links,  etc.  It  is  a 
good  starting-point  for  exploring  Exmoor  (see  p.  164),  and  the  Exmoor  Stag 
Hounds  hold  some  of  their  meets  in  the  vicinity.  In  summer  a  coach 
plies  daily  to  (7  M.)  Porlock  and  (19  M.)  Lynmouth  (see  p.  166),  and  another 
on  Mon.,  Wed.,  aud  Frid.  to  Dunster  and  Dulverton  (5s.  Qd.  ;  see  below). 
Among  the  pleasantest  points  in  the  vioinitv  are  Dunster  (21/2  M. ;  see 
p.  128),  Cleeve  Abbey  (6M.;  see  p.  128),  Oreenaley  Point  (IV2  M.) ,  Boss- 
ington  Beacon  (51/2  M.),  Selworthy  (5  M. ;  on  the  way  to  Porlock),  Grab- 
hurst  Hill,   near   Dunster,   and   the    Brendon   Hills  (see  p.  128). 

From  Taunton  to  Barnstaple,  441/2  M.,  railway  in  i^k  tr.  (7«.  6d., 
it.  9d.,  3s.  9(i.).  This  line,  skirting  the  S.  slopes  of  Exmoor  Forest  (p.  164), 
forms  the  direct  railway  approach  to  Ilfracombe  (p.  161).  —  The  first 
station  is  (2  M.)  Norton  Fitzicarren  (see  above).  —  From  (21  M.)  Dulverton 
(Carnarvon  Arms,  at  the  station  ;  *Lamb  ;  Red  Lion,  in  the  village),  which 
lies  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  line,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  (5V2  M.)  the  Tor  or  Tavr 
Steps,  a  rude  stone  bridge  over  the  Barle,  whence  the  pedestrian  may  go 
on  to  (19  M.)  Lynton  (p.  166).  Coach  to  Lynmouth,  see  p.  163;  to  Mine- 
head,  see  above.  From  Dulverton  a  branch-line  descends  the  vallev  of 
the  Exe  to  Bampton,  (12  M.)  Tiverton  (p.  129),  and  (26  M.)  Exeter  (p.  103). 
—  The  next  important  station  is  (34  M.)  South  Molton  (George),  a  small 
market-town,  whence  there  is  a  fine  drive  over  Exmoor,  via  Simonsbath 
(p.  168),  to  (22  M.)  Lynton  (p.  166).  —  Farther  on  the  train  passes  Castle 
Hill,  the  seat  of  Earl  Fortescue,  and  crosses  the  ^ray  by  a  viaduct  100  ft. 
high.  —  41  M,  Swimbridge.  —  441/2  M.  Barnstaple,  see  p.  161.  From  Barn- 
staple we  mav  go  on  by  railway  to  Hfracombe  (p.  161;  through-carriages 
from  Taunton)  or  Bide/ord  (p.  160),  or  hv  coach  to  (18  M.)  Lynton  (p.  166; 
5*.  6d.). 

From  Taunton  to  Ilminster  (George)  and  Chard,  see  p.  102. 


DAWLISH.  17.  Route.     129 

52  M.  Wellington  (Squirrel;  King's  Armsl,  a  small  town  from 
which  the  Duke  of  Wellington  takes  his  title.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  Black  Down  Hills ^  one  of  which  is  crowned  with  the  (1  hr.) 
Wellington  Monument.  The  train  now  passes  through  the  White 
Ball  Tunnel^  5/g  M.  in  length,  and  enters  the  county  of  Devon, 
renowned  for  its  leafy  lanes  and  wooded  'combes'  or  liollows, 
for  its  clotted  cream  and  its  cider.—  From  (6O3/4M.)  Tiverton  Junc- 
tion a  branch  diverges  on  the  right  to  (5  M.)  Tiverton  (Palmerston ; 
Angel),  a  town  of  10,892  inhab. ,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Exe  and  the  Leman  or  Lowman,  and  long  represented 
in  Parliament  by  Lord  Palmerston.  It  contains  a  large  Church  of 
the  15th  cent.,  the  remains  of  an  old  Castle,  Blundelfs  Grammar 
School  (an  old  foundation),  and  a  Lace  Factory  employing  1200 
workpeople.    To  Dulverton  and  Exeter,  see  p.  128. 

63  M.  Cullompton  (White  Hart),  a  small  town  of  great  anti- 
quity, has  an  interesting  church  of  the  16th  century.  The  line 
now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Culm. 

751/2  M.  Exeter,  see  p.  103. 

17.    From  Exeter  to  Plymouth. 

a.    Great  Western  Raihvay. 

63  M.  Railway  in  Pji-Z  hrs.  (fares  85.  9cf.,  5*.  6d.,  45.  iV^c?.).  This  route 
traverses  a  most  picturesque  district  and  skirts  iheS.  side  of  Dartmoor  (p.  136). 

Exeter,  see  p.  103.  —  Soon  after  leaving  the  station  we  obtain 
a  fine  view,  to  the  left,  of  the  mouth  of  the  Exe.  Beyond  (4^2  ^I- ) 
Exminster,  to  the  right,  is  Powderham  Castle,  seat  of  the  Earl  of 
Devon  (visitors  admitted  11-5,  in  the  absence  of  the  family,  on 
previous  written  application  to  the  steward).  8V2  ^I-  Starcross 
(Courtenay  Armsl,  the  station  for  Powderham,  lies  opposite  Ex- 
mouth  (p.  105). 

12  M.  Dawlish  (Royal ;  Albert;  London),  a  favourite  little  sea- 
bathing resort,  under  the  lee  of  the  Great  Haldon  (818  ft.),  with 
comfortable  bathing-arrangements.  —  NearDawlishthe  train  reaches 
the  coast  and  trends  to  the  right.  To  the  left  are  some  curioiis 
detached  rocks. 

15  M.  Teignmouth  (Royal,  on  the  Den,  facing  the  sea;  Lon- 
don; Queen^s),  a  large  watering-place,  prettily  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Teign,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a  long  bridge  of 
34  arches,  1670  ft.  long.  From  the  middle  of  the  grassy  promenade 
called  the  Den  a  handsome  pier  runs  out  into  the  sea.  Numerous 
pleasant  walks  and  drives  in  every  direction,  one  of  the  pleasantest 
being  to  the  top  of  the  Little  Haldon  (800  ft.).  Omnibus  thrice 
daily  to  (2  M.)  Bishop's  Teignton  (  Huntly  Hydropathic  Establish- 
ment, 9s.  per  day,  3^  3^.  per  week,  quiet,  well  spoken  of). 

The  line  now  skirts  the  estuary  of  theTeign,  commanding  a  good 
view  of  the  Haytor  and  Rippon  Tor  on  Dartmoor  (p.  136). 

Baedekers  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  9 


1^0   Route  17.  NEWTON  ABBOT.  From  Exeter 

20  M.  Newton  Abbot  (*Olobe,  Commercial,  in  the  town,  Y2  M- 
from  the  station;  Queen's,  near  the  station),  a  pleasant  little  town 
in  the  valley  of  the  Leman ,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Moreton 
Hampstead  and  to  Torquay  and  Dartmouth.  Its  two  lions  are  Ford 
House  (on  the  Torquay  road),  a  good  specimen  of  the  Tudor  style, 
and  the  Stone  on  which  "William  III.  was  first  proclaimed  king 
of  England  in  1688  (in  the  centre  of  the  town).  The  Grammar 
School  is  celebrated.  A  little  to  the  W.  is  Bradley  House,  parts  of 
which  date  from  the  14th  century. 

From  Newton  Abbot  to  3Ioreton  Hampstead  ,  12  M. ,  railway  in 
V2-V4  ^^-  (fares  2s.,  Is.  4d.,  Is.  O^/^d.).  This  line  aflords  the  most  convenient 
approach  to  the  E.  side  of  Dartmoor  (p.  136).  The  first  part  of  it  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Teign  (pron.  Teen).  —  21/2  M.  Teigngrace;  4  M.  Heath- 
field,  thejunction  for  (2^/2  M.)  Chi/dleigh,    Trusham,  and  (6V2  M.)  Ashton. 

[Chudleigh  (Clifford  Arms)  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of 'Chudleigh 
Rock  (fine  view  from  the  top),  a  bold  limestone  crag;  with  two  interesting 
caverns:  Chudleigh  Cavern  (with  stalactites  ;  adm.  6rf.)  and  the  Pixies'  Hole. 
Other  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  from  Chudleigh.] 

6  M.  Bovey  Tracey  (Union;  Dolphin)  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions 
to  (3  M.)  Hat/tor,  (4  M.)  Manaton,  etc.  The  coaches  mentioned  at  p.  105  start 
here.  Bovey  Tracey  was  long  the  demesne  of  the  Tracey  family,  and  the 
parish-church  is  said  to  have  been  built  and  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas  of 
Canterbury  by  Sir  William  Tracey,   one    of  the   archbishop's  murderers. 

8V2  M.  Lustleigh  (Cleave  Hotel),  a  romantically-situated  little  village, 
is  the  station  for  visitors  to  (1  M.)  'Lustleigh  Cleave,  a  rock-girt  and 
boulder-strewn  upland  valley.  On  one  of  the  enclosing  hills  is  a  pile  of 
rocks  known  as  the  Nutcrackers ,  from  a  logan  stone  so  delicately  poised 
as  to  crack  a  nut  in  its  oscillation.  Lustleigh  is  also  the  nearest  station 
for  Manaton  (Half  Moon),  a  beautiful  little  village  21/2  M.  to  the  W.,  sur- 
rounded by  tors  (views).  Bowermans  Nose,  1  M.  from  Manaton,  is  a 
curious  natural  formation,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  a  man,  seated. 
A  walk  may  also   be  taken  to  (1  M.)  the  Becky  Falls  and  Horsham  Steps. 

12  M.  Moreton  Hampstead  (White  Hart;  White  Horse),  a  small  town 
with  1500  inhab.,  on  the  E.  skirts  of  Dartmoor,  is  visited  by  tourists  mainly 
as  a  stepping-stone  to  the  more  suitable  headquarters  at  Chag/ord  (p.  137), 
5  M.  to  the  N.W.  (omn.  twice  daily).  A  good  road  leads  from  Moreton 
Hampstead  across  Dartmoor  to  (12  M.)  Two  Bridges  (p.  137),  whence  we 
may  go  on  to  (8V2)  Tavistock  (p.  136),  to  (9  M).  Horrabridge  (p.  135),  or 
to  (6  M.)  Princetown  (p.  136). 

From  Newton  Abbot  to  Torquay  and  Dartmouth,  15  M.,  G.  W. 

Railway  in  1-1 1/4  tr.  (fares  25.  6d.,  Is.  Sd. ,  is.  d^id-)-  —  2V2  M. 
King sker swell;  5  M.  Torre,  the  station  for  the  N.  part  of  Torquay. 
Torquay  station  is  on  the  W.  margin  of  the  town. 

6  M.  Torquay  (Plan,  see  p.  138).  —  Hotels.    *Impeeial   (P1.  a; 

C,  4),  a  large  establishment,  finely  situated  in  grounds  overlooking  the  sea, 
IV2  M.  from  the  station  (cab  2s.);  R.  2s.  Qd.-ls.,  A.  Is.  %d.,  table  d'hote  5s. 
6d.,  B.  2-3s.,  toilet  lights  Is.  Qd.,  board  (E,.  &  A.  extra)  10s.  6d.  —  *Torbat 
(PI.  d;  C,  3),  to  the  W.  of  the  harbour,  with  sea-view,  R.  <fe  A.  from  4s.  6d. ; 
Victoria  &  Albert  (PI.  e;  B,  3),  Belgrave,  Belgrave  Road;  Osborne, 
llesketh  Crescent.  Meadfoot,  2  M.  from  the  station ;  Rotal  (PI.  b).  Queen's 
(PI.  c),  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  overlooking  the  harbour  (PI.  C,  3), 
commercial  and  family  hotels;  Western  (PI.  f ;  A,  3),  at  the  railway- 
station;  Jordan's  Temperance,  unpretending.  —  Numerous  Private  Hotels, 
Boarding  Houses,  and  Lodgings.  —  The  hotel  omnibuses  meet  the  prin- 
cipal trains. 

Cab  with  one  horse  for  1-3  pers.,  ^d.  per  1/2  M- ;  for  more  than  3  pers. 


to  Plymouth.  TORQUAY.  17.  Route.    131 

is.  for  the  first  V2  M.  and  Qd.  each  addit.  V2  M.  By  time:  25.  or  3s.  per  hr., 
I5.  or  is.  3d.  for  each  addit.  1/2  hr.;  after  9  p.m.  (7  p.m.  in  winter)  minimum 
fares  Is.  Qd.  or  2s.  Luggage  up  to  112  lbs.  free  (for  the  station-cabs,  2d. 
for  each  package  carried  outside). 

Steam  Launch  to  Paignton  (p.  132)  every  '/2  ^^-  in  summer.  —  Steamers 
and  Sailing  Yachts  make  excursions  in  summer.  —  Rowing  Boat  Is.  per 
hr. ;  with  boatman.  Is.  Qd.  for  the  Ist,  Is.  for  each  addit.  hr. 

Bathing  Machine  Qd.  —  Public  Baths  at  the  head  of  the  Pier  (PI.  C,  4). 

Theatre  in  Abbey  Eoad;  performances  daily  in  the  winter  season. — 
A  Band  plays  daily  (12-1)  on  the  Strand. 

Torquay,  a  town  of  modern  growth,  with  25,534  inhab.,  beauti- 
fully situated  at  the  N.  W.  angle  of  Tor  Bay,  is  a  favourite  resort 
of  persons  with  delicate  chests,  on  account  of  its  mild  and  equable 
climate;  and  it  contests  with  Brighton  and  Scarborough  the  title  of 
Queen  of  English  watering-places.  In  winter  the  thermometer 
seldom  descends  to  36°  Fahr.,  while  in  summer  the  maximum  heat 
is  about  77°.  The  town,  seen  to  greatest  advantage  from  a  boat  in 
the  bay,  is  spread  over  a  number  of  small  hills,  which  rise  in  ter- 
races above  the  sea ,  and  are  dotted  with  well-built  villas  em- 
bosomed in  a  luxuriant  semi-tropical  vegetation  scarcely  paralleled 
elsewhere  in  England.  'It  reminds  one  of  Newport',  says  an  American 
writer,  'in  the  luxuriousness  of  its  foliage,  the  elasticity  of  its 
lawns,  and  its  masses  of  flowers'.  The  bathing  and  boating  are  ex- 
cellent, and  the  environs  abound  in  charming  walks  and  drives. 
Torquay  is  an  important  yachting  station,  and  an  annual  regatta  is 
held  here  in  Aug.  or  Sept.,  while  good  packs  of  harriers  and  fox- 
hounds are  within  easy  reach. 

The  ruins  of  Tor  Abbey  (PI.  A,  3;  12-14th  cent.),  which  may 
be  viewed  from  Torbay  Road,  are  not  open  to  the  public,  but  St. 
Michael's  Chapel  (PI.  A,  1  ;  E.E.),  on  a  commanding  site  near  Torre 
station,  may  be  visited.  The  *Museum  (PL  D,  3;  adm.  Is.,  or  by 
member's  order),  in  the  Babbacombe  road,  contains  a  well-arranged 
collection  of  the  bones  found  in  Kent's  Cavern  (p.  132).  The 
Church  of  St.  John  (PI.  C,  3),  a  modern  Gothic  edifice,  is  a  hand- 
some and  prominent  feature  of  the  town.  The  Harbour  and  Pier 
(adm.  Id.;  PI.  C,  4),  near  which  are  the  Torbay  Yacht  Club  and 
several  of  the  chief  hotels,  lie  about  IV2  M.  from  the  statiOTi.  At 
the  end  of  the  pier  are  the  Public  Baths  and  Assembly  Rooms  (PI,  C, 
4).  Beyond  the  Imperial  Hotel  a  public  walk,  commanding  a  good 
view  of  the  bay,  leads  to  a  spot  called  the  Land's  End,  in  the 
rocks  beyond  which  is  a  natural  arch  known  as  ^London  Bridge^ 
(PI.  D,  4).  The  industrial  specialty  of  Torquay  is  the  manufacture 
of  articles  in  terracotta ;  visitors  are  admitted  to  the  works  of  the  Tor- 
quay Terracotta  Co.  at  Hele  Cross,  near  Torre  station  (PI.  A,  l),and 
the  Watcombe  Terracotta  Co.  (p.  132). 

Walks  and  Excursions.  From  the  Torbay  Yacht  Club  we  may  ascend 
by  Parkhill  Road  to  Daddy  Hole  Plain  (PI.  D,  4),  an  elevated  plateau 
commanding  a  good  view.  Thence  we  descend  to  the  sandy  bay  known 
as  Meadfoot  (PI.  E,  4),  on  the  hillside  above  which  are  the  public  3/aHor 
Gardens'.  Torquay  may  be  regained  via  the  picturesque  Lincombe  Drive, 
which  skirts  the  N.  aide  of  the  gardens;  or  we  may  extend  our  walk  by 

9* 


Id2   Route  17.  DARTMOUTH.  From  Exeter 

following  the  Sea  Road  along  the  S.  of  the  gardens  to  Ilsham  Lane,  which 
strikes  inland  to  Ilsham  Grange  (PI.  F,  2),  a  farm-house  of  the  15th  cent., 
formerly  belonging  to  Tor  Abbey,  and  situated  at  the  head  of  a  beautiful 
combe.     A  little  farther  on  we  jnin  the  following  excursion. 

The  following  *Walk  need  not  take  more  than  a  short  half-day,  un- 
less prolonged  by  boating  or  bathing.  Starting  from  the  harbour  we  pass 
through  Torwood  St.  and  ascend  the  Babbacombe  road  (PI.  D,  E,  3) 
till  we  reach  a  point  where  a  notice-board  indicates  the  way  to  Rents 
Cavern.  Here  we  turn  to  the  ribiht  and  soon  diverge  from  the  road  to 
the  right  (sign-post)  to  visit  Kent's  Cavern  (PI.  E,  2;  open  10-5;  1-3  pers. 
Is.  Bd.'j  each  addit.  pers.  6d.),  a  limestone  cave  less  interesting  for  its  extent 
or  stalagmites  than  for  the  extraordinary  quantity  of  bones  and  flint 
implements  found  here,  and  their  important  testimony  to  the  antiquity 
of  man  (comp.  p.  131).  —  We  then  return  to  the  road  and  follow  it  to  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  where  a  sign-post  shows  the  uphill  way  to  the  left  to 
(1/2  M.)  'Anstey's  Cove  (PI.  F,  1).  A  notice-board  to  the  right ,  with  an 
inscription  in  verse,  marks  the  point  where  we  leave  the  road  to  descend 
to  this  pretty  little  bay,  where  boats  and  bathing-machines  may  be 
hired.  —  We'  may  now  either  cross  the  ravine  and  take  a  path  along  the 
cliffs,  or  return  to  the  road  and  follow  it  to  (1  M.)  Babbacombe  (PI.  D,  1-, 
Royal  Hotel),  where  we  descend  to  the  right  (sign-post)  to  *Babbacombe 
Bay,  another  rock-girt  bay,  where  beautiful  effects  of  colouring  are  pro- 
duced by  the  white  beach,  the  red  cliffs,  the  green  trees,  and  the  blue  sea. 
Boats  may  be  hired  here,  but  bathers  must  go  on  to  Oddicombe  Beach, 
forming  an  additional  wing  of  Babbacombe  Bay.  Simple  refreshments 
may  be  obtained  in  the  quaint  little  Gary  Arms  Inn.  The  *View  from 
Babbacombe  Down  embraces  a  long  line  of  coast  in  both  directions.  At 
St.  Marychurch  ^  adjoining  Babbacombe,  is  a  handsome  modern  Roman 
Catholic  Church.  From  Babbacombe  we  may  go  on  by  boat  or  by  road  to 
(iV4  M.)  Watcombe,  with  its  Giant  Rock  and  its  terracotta  works  ;  or  we  may 
return  direct  across   Warberry  Hill  (PI.  D,  2;  view)  to  (2  M.)  Torquay. 

To  the  W.  a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  through  typical  Devonshire 
lanes  to  (1^4  M.)  Cockingion,  with  its  ivy-clad  church;  (4  M.)  Mavldon, 
the  church  of  which  (14-15th  cent.)  contains  several  monuments  of  the 
Gilberts  of  Compton  ;  and  (5  M.)  Compton  Castle  (now  a  farm),  erected  in 
the  first  half  of  the  15th  century.  Longer  excursions  may  be  made  to 
(8  M.)  Berry  Pomeroy  Castle  (p.  134),  Dartmouth  and  the  Dart  (see  below), 
Teignmoiith  (p.  129;  by  the  coast),  Dartmoor  (p.  136),  etc. 

On  resuming  the  railway -route  to  Dartmouth  we  soon  reach 
(8  M.)  Paignton  (Esplanade,  table-d'hote  As.  Qd.\  Gersion ;  Com- 
mercial)^ a  rapidly  growing  watering-place ,  with  an  interesting 
church  and  an  excellent  sandy  beach.  —  lO'^^^-  Churston. 

A  branch  diverges  here  on  the  left  to  (2  M.j  Brixham  (Bolton;  Globe), 
a  small  fishing-town  noted  for  its  trawlers,  with  a  statue  of  William  III., 
erected  to  commemorate  the  two  hundredth  anniversary  of  his  landing  here 
in  1688.  The  rock  upon  which  William  stepped  from  his  boat  is  preserved 
on  the  pier.  About  IV4  31.  to  the  E.  is  Berry  Head,  with  traces  of  Roman 
occupation  ;  and  in  the  other  direction,  not  far  from  the  Bolton  Hotel, 
is  Brixham  or  Philp's  Cavern,  second  to  Kent's  alone  in  the  interest  and 
extent  of  its  bnne  relics. 

The  railway  ends  at  (147-2  M.)  Kingsicear  (Royal  Dart),  whence 
passengers  are  ferried  across  the  Dart  to  — 

Dartmouth  [Castle,  opposite  the  landing-stage;  King's  Arms, 
Commercial,  unpretending),  a  quaint  little  seaport  of  6025  inhah., 
with  a  roomy  and  "very  picturesque  harbour,  formerly  of  much 
greater  importance  than  at  present.  It  is  mentioned  by  Chaucer 
in  the  Prologue  to  the  'Canterbury  Tales'  ('Dertemouthe').  The  in- 
teresting old  *Church  of  St.  Saviour's  (14th  cent.),  on  the  way  to 


to  Plymouth.  TOTNES.  17.  Route.    133 

which  we  pass  the  quaintly-carved  arcade  of  the  so-called  Butter 
Walk  (1G40),  contains  a  coloured  wooden  screen,  galleries  with 
the  carved  and  gilt  arms  of  the  merchant  families  of  Dartmouth, 
a  curiously  carved  stone  pulpit,  a  fine  brass  slab  to  John  Havrley 
(in  front  of  the  altar),  and  oaken  pews  for  the  Corporation.  The 
new  Start  Bay  Yacht-Club  House  is  built  in  the  half-timbered  style 
of  the  17th  cent.  —  A  pretty  road  leads  along  the  Dart  to  the  (1  M.) 
Castle  at  its  mouth,  now  a  coast-battery  (fine  view  from  the  top 
of  the  castle-mound).    Adjacent  is  St.  Petrock's  Church. 

From  Dartmoutli  a  charming  excursion  may  be  made  up  the  river 
Dart  to  (10  M.)  Totnes  (see  below)  by  a  small  steamer  plying  daily  in  summer 
(11/4  hr. ;  fare  is.  6rf.,  is.  3d.).  As  we  leave  Dartmouth  we  pass  the  Bri- 
tannia training-ship.  Our  first  stopping-place  is  (3  M.)  Diitisham,  opposite 
which  is  Greenway  House-,  at  one  time  the  residence  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh, 
who  is  said  to  have  been  iii  the  habit  of  smoking  his  pipe  on  the  'An- 
chor Rock'  in  mid-stream  (marked  by  an  iron  'anchor').  Beyond  (6V2  M.) 
Ducannon  we  enter  the  prettiest  part  of  the  course,  the  winding  reaches 
of  Sharpham,  wooded  down  to  the  waters  edge.  —  The  landing-place  at 
Totnes  is  about  !/■«  M.  below  the  bridge  (see  beluw). 

A  coach  (fare  3s.)  runs  twice  daily  from  Dartmouth  via  Slapton  Sands 
and  (S  M.)  Torcross  (Hotel)  to  (15  M.)  Kingsbridge  (p.  134).  —  From  Torcross 
pedestrians  may  follow  the  coast  to  (4M.)  Start  Point  (Lighthouse),  (5  M.) 
Frawle  Point  (Inn),  and  (6  M.  •,  in  all  15  M.)  Salcombe  ('Marine  Hotel,  on 
the  estuary,  with  gardens,  3-3'/2  gs.  per  week;  Victoria;  King's  Arms),  a 
charming  little  watering-place  on  the  W.  side  of  the  estuary  (ferry),  whence 
an  omnibus  (l.s.  Gd  )  and  a  small  steamer  (4<7  )  ply  tn  (G'/i  or  ti  M.I  Kings- 
bridge  (p.  134).    A  steamer  also  plies  in  summer  to  Plymouth  (p.  138;  %.). 

Continuation  of  Railway  to  Plymouth.  Beyond  Newton  Ab- 
bot the  train  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Teign,  threads  a  tunnel,  and 
descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Dart,  which  it  crosses  at  Totnes. 

29 M.  Totnes  (;^Seymour,  *Seven  Stars,  near  the  bridge;  Castle, 
at  the  head  of  the  main  street)  is  an  ancient  little  town  of  4016 
inhab.,  'hanging  from  E.  to  W.  on  the  side  of  a  hill'  (Camden)  and 
containing  numerous  quaint  old  houses  with  piazzas  and  projecting 
gables.  From  the  station  we  ascend  to  the  castle  (see  below)  by 
the  road  passing  a  sign-board  which  indicates  the  way  to  the  Castle 
Hotel  and  leading  through  an  old  gateway  [North  Gate). 

Arriving  by  water  (see  above)  we  cross  the  bridge  and  ascend 
the  steep  main  street  (^Fore  Street),  passing  a  road  leading  to  the 
right  to  the  station.  Beyond  the  bridge  a  monument  commemorates 
William  John  Wills  (d.  1862),  the  first  explorer  who  crossed  the 
Australian  continent.  Farther  up,  also  to  the  right(in  thepavement), 
is  the  so-called  'Brutus  Stone  ,  the  very  stone,  according  to  hoary 
tradition,  on  which  Brutus  of  Troy  first  set  foot  on  lauding  in  Brit- 
ain !  Beyond  this  we  pass  through  the  old  East  Gate,  spanning 
the  street,  and  reach  the  *Church  (key  at  a  cottage  on  the  N.  side),  a 
good  Perp.  building  {ibth  cent.),  with  a  fine  tower.  The  interior 
(restored)  contains  a  carved  stone  rood-screen,  a  good  W.  window, 
and  a  curious  monument  (W.end)  of  Kit  Blackball  and  his  four  wives. 

At  the  Castle  Hotel,  a  little  farther  up  the  main  street,  we  turn 
to  the  right  and  reach  the  entrance  to  the  *Castle  (3t/. ;  ring),  the 


134    Route  17.  IVY  BRIDGE.  From  Exeter 

grounds  enclosing  which  are  open  to  the  public.  The  only  relic 
of  the  Castle,  a  Norman  foundation  ascribed  to  a  follower  of  the 
Conqueror ,  is  the  keep  ,  consisting  of  two  circular  stages  placed 
one  on  the  top  of  the  other,  like  a  larger  and  smaller  cheese.  Fine 
view  from  the  top  (to  the  W.  two  curiously  clipped  yews), 

Totnes  is  the  nearest  railway-station  to  '^'Berry  Pomeroy  Castle  (adm. 
6d.),  a  picturesque  ivy-clad  ruin,  2^/4  M.  to  the  E.  The  castle  was  origin- 
ally erected  in  the  Norman  epoch,  but  the  oldest  existing  parts  date  from 
the  l3th  century.  In  its  prime  the  mansion  was  so  extensive  that  it  'was 
a  good  day's  work  for  a  servant  but  to  open  and  shut  the  casements'. 

About'2  M.  to  the  N,  of  Totnes  is  Darlington,  with  an  old  Hall.  The 
Dart  above  Totnes  is  also  pretty.  At  Little  Eempston  is  a  well-preserved 
quadrangular  rectory  of  the  age  of  Richard  II.  (1377-99),  with  a  great  hall. 

From  Totnes  to  Ashbueton,  91/2  M.,  railway  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  Is.  7(i., 
I5.,  91/2^.)-  This  pretty  little  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Dart  and 
forms  an  easy  approach  to  the  S.  part  of  Dartmoor.  —  3  M.  Siaverton, 
with  a  picturesque  bridge  across  the  Dart.  —  7  M.  Buckfastleigh  (King's 
Arms),  a  small  serge-making  town,  with  an  old  Cistercian  abbey  (2/4  M. 
to  the  N.,  on  the  river),  partly  rebuilt  in  1888  by  French  monks. 

91/2  M.  Ashburton  (London;  Golden  Lion)  ^  a  'Stannary'  town  (see 
p.  136),  with  a  handsome  church,  is  a  starting-point  for  various  Dartmoor 
excursions.  The  favourite  is  that  through  the  'Buckland  Drive  and  Holne 
Chase  (open  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.),  to  the  N.,  a  round  of  about  10  M. 
(carr.  and  pair  15^.).  About  1  M.  above  Holne  Bridge,  on  the  Dart,  is  a 
fine  piece  of  rock  scenery  called  the  Lover  s  Leap.  Another  pleasant  walk 
or  drive  is  that  to  (3  M.)  Buckland  Beacon,  (2  M.)  Eippon  Tor,  (IV^M.) 
Haytor,  and  (^4  M.)  Rock  Inn,  whence  we  may  go  on  to  (3  M.)  Bovey  Tra- 
cey  (p.  130)  or  (5  M.)  Lustleigh  (p.  130).  —  Widdecombe  in  the  Moors,  with 
a  handsome  Perp.  church  (the  'Cathedral  of  Dartmoor"),  lies  6  M.  to  the  N., 
near  the  centre  of  the  moor.  Two  Bridges  (p.  137)  is  12  M.  to  the  "W.  Holne 
ann),  the  birthplace  of  Charles  Kingsley  (1819-75),  lies  41/4  M.  to  the  W.  of 
Ashburton, 

Beyond  Totnes  the  line,  skirting  the  S.  base  of  Dartmoor,  passes 
through  a  very  pretty  district.  Before  reaching  (36M.)  Brent  (Carew 
Arms)  we  penetrate  a  long  tunnel. 

From  Brent  a  branch-line  runs  to  (12\/j  M.)  Kingsbridge  (King's  Arms; 
Albion),  a  pleasant-looking  little  town  at  the  head  of  a  small  arm  of  the 
sea.  The  climate  in  this  corner  of  Devonshire  is  so  mild  that  oranges, 
citrons,  myrtles,  and  aloes  flourish  in  the  open  air  all  the  year  round. 
—  From  Kingsbridge  coaches  run  to  (15  M.)  Dartmouth  (see  p.  133)  and 
to  (6V2M.)  Salcombe(p.  133:  twice  daily,  is.  6d.)  i  sometimes  also  to(20  M.) 
Plymouth  (p.  138).  Kingsbridge  also  communicates  with  Plymouth  by  steamer. 

38  M.  Wrangaton,  As  we  approach  (41^2  M.)  Ivy  Bridge 
('^London;  King's  Arms),  the  pleasantest  headquarters  for  explor- 
ing S.  Dartmoor  (see  p.  136)  ,  we  cross  a  lofty  viaduct  (110  ft. 
high),  from  which  we  enjoy  a  charming  glimpse  to  the  right  up 
the  valley  of  the  Erme.  The  view  to  the  left  is  also  attractive.  From 
the  Blatchford  Viaduct,  2M.  father  on,  another  fine  view  is  obtain- 
ed to  the  right.  Beyond  (43'/2  M.)  Cornwood  the  train  crosses 
another  viaduct  and  descends  to  (48  M.)  Plympton  (George),  the 
birthplace  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  (1723-9'2),  with  an  old  grammar 
school  (17th  cent.)  which  he  attended.  We  then  cross  the  Plym, 
come  in  sight  of  the  fortifications  of  Plymouth,  pass  the  suburban 
stations  of  (51^/2  M.)  Mutley  and  (52  M.)  North  Road,  and  enter 
the  Mill  Bay  Terminus  at  (53  M.)  Plymouth  (see  p.  138). 


to  Plymouth.  LIDFORD.  17.  Route.    135 

b.  South  Wester 71  Railway. 

62  M.  Railway  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  8«.  9<i.,  5«.  6d.,  4i.  4cZ.).  This  line 
skirts  the  N.  side  of  Dartmoor  (p.  136). 

From  Exeter  to  (IIV2  ^^O  Yeoford,  see  p.  105.  Our  line  here 
diverges  to  the  left  (S.)  from  that  to  Ilfracombe.  An  omnibus  plies 
daily  in  summer  from  Yeoford  to  (11  M.)  Chagford  (p.  137j.  — 
16  M.  Bow^  beyond  which  Cawsand  Beacon  (1800  ft.),  an  outlying 
spur  of  Dartmoor,  is  visible  to  the  left.  Beyond  (191/2  ^l-)  North 
Taxvton  we  cross  the  Taw  and  pass  (22  M.)  Sampford  Courtney. 

26  M.  Okehampton  (White  Hart;  Flume  of  Feathers)^  a  small 
town  on  the  N.  margin  of  Dartmoor,  with  the  remains  of  a  partly 
Normancastle(3/4M.  to  theW.),  is  the  junction  for  Wadehridge  d.n^ 
for  Holsworthy  and  Bude,  see  R.  20).  Yes  Tor  (see  p.  138)  may  be 
ascended  hence  without  difficulty  in  about  2  hrs. 

A  coach  runs  daily,  except  Sun.,  from  Okehampton  to  Hatherltigh, 
and  thrice  a  week  to  Chagford  (p.  137). 

Beyond  Okehampton  we  obtain  a  view  of  its  castle  to  the  right, 
and  cross  the  Okement  by  the  Meldon  Viaduct.  From  (3272  ^I-) 
Bridestowe  ('Briddystow')  we  may  ascend  Great  Links  Tor^  2  M.  to 
the  E.  of  the  station.  (The  village  is  1 1/2  ^1-  to  the  W.  of  the  railway.) 
A  good  Dartmoor  walk  may  be  taken  from  Bridestowe  along  Tavy 
Cleave^  skirting  'a  magnificent  range  of  castellated  tors',  to  Lidford. 

36  M.  Lidford  (Manor  Hotel;  Castle,  in  the  village;  Rail.  Re- 
freshment Rooms),  which  is  also  a  station  on  the  G.  W.  R.  system 
(see  below),  is  an  ancient  place  with  the  remains  of  a  castle  and 
was  formerly  a  Stannary  town  (see  p.  136).  The  old  Stannary 
Court  here  was  notorious  for  its  abuses,  and  'Lidford  Law',  like 
'Jeddart  Justice'  (p.  466)  ,  hanged  a  man  first  and  tried  him  after- 
wards. About  V2  ^1-  to  the  W.  of  the  G.  W.  R.  station  is  Lidford 
Cascade,  100  ft.  in  total  height  (fee  2d.) ;  its  volume  may  be  much 
increased  by  letting  off  the  water  in  the  mill-pond  above  (fee). 
The  (1  M.)  *Lidford  Gorge  (bridge)  is  among  the  finest  ravines  of 
its  kind  in  England  (path  open  on  Mon.). 

From  Lidford  to  Launceston,  12'/2  M.,  G.  W.  Railway  in  '/j  hr.  (fares 
2s.,  Is.  4d.,  Is.  UV-.'rf).  4V2  M.  Coryton,  with  the  line  Elizabethan  mansion 
of  Sydenham  and  its  noble  trees  (V2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  station);  8  M. 
Lifton.  Beyond  the  latter  we  enter  Cornwall  and  follow  the  winding 
course  of  the  Tamav.  —  1'27-.;  M.  Launceston  (p.  158). 

From  Lidford  to  Plymouth  by  the  G.  W.  R.,  23'/-.'  M.,  in  1  hr.  (fares 
3s.  lOd.,  2s.  6t7.,  Is.  lid.).  —  To  the  right  rises  Brentor  (see  p.  136).  Beyond 
(3  M.)  Mary-Tavy,  also  to  the  right,  is  Kelly  College.,  for  the  sons  of  naval 
officers.  —  6  M.   Tavistock,  see  p.  136. 

Beyond  Tavistock  the  train  threads  a  tunnel  and  passes  the  village 
of  Whitchurch  on  the  left.  Fine  views  of  the  W.  slopes  of  Dartmoor.  — 
10  M.  Horrdbridge  (Roborough  Arms)  is  the  station  for  Buckland  Abbey, 
a  Cistercian  foundation  of  the  13th  cent.,  which  lies  l'/-.'  M.  to  the  S.W. 
There  are  few  remains  of  the  old  buildings,  but  the  mansion,  which  be- 
longs to  the  representatives  of  the  Drake  family,  contains  some  relics  of 
Sir  Francis.  The  village,  Buckland  Monachoruvi,  has  an  interesting  church. 
—  IIV2  M.  Yelverton  (Rock  Hotel),  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Princetown. 

[From  Yelverton  to  Princetown,  IOV2M.,  railway  (Dartmoor  Railway) 
in  V2  hr.  (fares  Is.  9d.,  Is.  2d.,  iO^td.).    This  line  ascends  rapidly  in  a  series 


136    Route  17.  TAVISTOCK.  From  Exeter 

of  sharp  curves,  commanding  cLarming  views.  —  I'/u  M.  Dousland  (Manor 
Hotel),  the  station  for  Walkhampto7i,  with  its  conspicuous  Perp.  church.  The 
'Tors'  of  Dartmoor  are  visible  on  both  sides,  while  behind  us  the  hills 
ot  Cornwall  form  the  background.  —  IOV2  M.  Princeto-wn  (1400  ft.  above 
the  sea;  'Duchy  Hotel),  a  small  town  of  modern  origin,  forms  a  con- 
venient starting-point  for  excursions  in  Dartmoor  Forest  (see  below),  near 
the  centre  of  which  it  lies.  The  large  Convict  Prison  here  was  erected 
at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  for  French  prisoners-of-war ,  of 
whom  it  is  said  to  have  contained  9000  in  1811.  In  the  war  of  1812-14 
upwards  of  2000  American  seamen ,  who  refused  to  serve  in  the  British 
navy  against  their  country,  were  also  confined  here.  Part  of  the  adjoining 
moorland  has  been  reclaimed  by  convict  labour.  Princetown  is  about  15  M. 
from  Chagford  or  Mq,reton  Hampstead  (see  p.  130).] 

Sheep's  Tor  now  comes  into  view  on  the  left.  The  line  follows  the 
windings  of  the  Plym.  Near  (15  M.)  Bickleigh  (p.  142),  to  the  left,  is  the 
Dewerstone,  rising  above  the  confluence  of  the  Meavy  and  the  Plym.  We 
now  descend  the  pretty  Bickleigh  Vale  (p.  142)  to  (19  M.)  Marsh  Mills.  — 
22  M.  Mutley.  —  221/2  M.  North  Road  (see  p.  138).  231/2  M.  Mill  Bay,  the  G. 
W.  K.  terminus  at  Plymouth. 

Beyond  Lidford  the  S.  W.  R.  runs  parallel  for  some  distance 
with  the  G.  W.  R.  To  the  right  of  (37  M.)  Brentor  station  rises 
BrentoT  (1114  ft.),  an  isolated  volcanic  cone  surmounted  by  the 
small  church  of  St.  Michael  de  Rupe,  dating  from  the  13th  cent, 
(fine  view  from  the  churchyard ;  key  of  the  church  kept  at  the 
Stag's  Head  Inn).  Farther  on  the  line  crosses  the  G.  W.  R.  The 
train  then  enters  the  valley  of  the  Tavy^  which  it  descends  to  — 

42  M.  Tavistock  (Bedford,  well  spoken  of;  Queen'' s  Head; 
Temperance),  a  pleasant-looking  town  on  the  Tavy ,  which  flows 
into  the  Tamar  close  by.  The  scanty  remains  of  Tavistock  Abbey, 
originally  founded  in  the  10th  cent,  and  once  an  institution  of 
considerable  importance,  are  close  to  the  Bedford  Hotel,  which  in- 
corporates some  parts  of  the  old  edifice.  Adjacent  is  the  Parish 
Church,  a  fine  Perp.  edifice,  restored  in  1846.  In  the  vicarage-garden 
are  three  inscribed  stones  of  the  Romano-British  period.  Tavistock 
is  the  centre  of  an  important  mining-district,  in  which  lead,  silver, 
'copper,  tin,  and  manganese  are  found.  It  was  one  of  the  Stannary 
Towns  (Latin  Stannum,  tin),  or  towns  in  which  were  held  the  Tin 
Parliaments  for  deciding  all  questions  connected  with  the  tin- 
mining  of  the  district.  Sir  Francis  Drake  (p.  139)  is  supposed  to 
have  been  born  at  Crowndale,  1  M.  to  the  S.;  and  a  statue  of  the 
famous  admiral ,  by  Boehm ,  has  been  erected  at  Fitzford ,  1  M.  to 
the  W. —  Tavistock  is  also  a  station  on  the  G.  W.  R.  (see  p.  135). 

A  coach  plies  daily  in  summer  from  Tavistock  to  (18  M.;  3  hrs.) 
Liskeard  (p.  143  •,  fare  35.),  passing  Gunnislake  (near  the  Morwell  Rocks, 
p.  142),  St.  Ann's  Chapel  (near  Calstock,  p.  142),  and  Caliington.  Near  the 
road,  about  4  M.  from  Tavistock,  is  the  Devon  Great  Consols  Mine,  which 
formerly  yielded  1000-1200  tons  of  copper  ore  per  month,  but  is  now 
worked  mainlv  for  arsenic.  From  Caliington  coaches  run  several  times 
daily  to  Saltu'sh  (p.  142). 

Tavistock  is  one  of  the  chief  starting-points  for  excursions  in 
Dartmoor  Forest,  a  few  of  the  most  interesting  points  in  which  are 
described  below,  while  others  have  been  already  mentioned. 

Dartmoor  Forest,  so  named  from  the  river  Dart,  is  Ji  high-lying 
moorland  district,   about  25  M.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  and  12  M.  wide  from 


to  Plymouth.  DARTMOOR.  J 7.  Route.    137 

E.  to  W.  The  mean  elevation  is  about  1500  ft.  It  has  been  described 
as  'a  monstrous  lump  of  granite  covered  with  a  sponge  of  peaty  soiT, 
and  one  of  its  most  characteristic  features  are  the  'Tors',  or  huge  blocks 
of  granite  that  crown  most  of  the  hills.  Numerous  small  streaius  rise 
on  Dartmoor,  and  their  pretty  wooded  valleys  often  afTord  a  pleasin;j; 
contrast  to  the  barren  scenery  of  the  higher  parts  of  the  Forest.  These 
streams,  with  their  numerous  little  falls  and  'stickles'  (rapids),  are 
generally  well  stocked  with  trout.  The  moor  also  offers  much  to  interest 
the  antiquarian,  as  it  abounds  in  menhirs,  stone  circles,  and  other  relics 
of  the  ancient  Britons,  though  many  supposed  ancient  monuments  are 
now  regarded  as  cattle-pens  and  deserted  mining-shafts  of  no  great  age. 
The  air  is  bracing  and  the  climate  in  summer  is  often  pleasant  and 
invigorating;  but  rain  is  very  prevalent  at  all  seasons.  Dartmoor  ponies 
are  a  sturdy  and  sure-footed  race.  The  pedestrian  will  find  abundant 
opportunity  fur  his  prowess,  but  should  be  on  his  guard  against  bogs 
and  mists.  It  is  prudent  to  keep  pretty  closely  to  the  beaten  tracks,  and 
a  good  map  and  pocket  compass  are  indispensable  to  all  who  are  not 
accompanied  by  a  guide.  The  best  carriage-roads  are  those  from  Tavistock 
to  Ivy  Bridge,  and  from  Horrabridge  to  Chagford,  Moreton  Hampstead, 
and  Ashburton,  intersecting  each  other  at  Two  Bridges  (see  below).  The 
visitor  to  Dartmoor  will  find  good  headquarters  at  Princetown  (p.  136),  Two 
Bridges  (see  below),  and  Chagford  (see  below),  while  Okehampton  (p.  135) 
and  Ashburton  (p.  134)  or  Ivy  Bridge  (p.  134)  are  conveniently  placed  for 
its  N.  and  S.  districts  respectively. 

One  of  the  commoner  excursions  from  Tavistock  is  to  the  top  of 
Brentor  (p.  136),  which  lies  about  4  M.  to  the  N.;  but  this  ascent  is  better 
made  from  Lidford  (p.  135).  —  Walkers  may  follow  the  ridge  from  (3  W.) 
Mai-y-Tavy  (p.  135)  to  (5V2  M.)  Have  Tor  and  &I2  M.)  the  Great  Links  Tor 
(p.  135),  whence  they  may  descend  to  the  W.  to  (2  M.)  Bridestowe  (p.  135), 
or  go  on  over  Yes  Tor  (see  p.  138)  to  (6  M.)  Okehampton  (p.  134). 

From  Tavistock  a  road  leads  due  E.  through  Dartmoor,  soon  passing 
a  number  of  tors.  The  first  on  the  left  is  Cock's  Tor  (1470  ft.),  beyond 
which  are  the  Staple  Tors.  Opposite  are  Feather  Tor  and  the  curiously 
shaped  Vixen  Tor.  About  1  M.  beyond  (41/4  M.)  Merrivale  (Inn),  to  the 
S.  (right)  of  the  road,  are  some  interesting  stone  circles  and  avenues. 
About  this  point,  too,  we  may  turn  to  the  left  to  visit  the  (IV2  M.)  Oreat 
Mis  Tor  (1760  ft.),  which  commands  an  admirable  view.  The  road  to 
Princetown  (8  M.  from  Tavistock)  diverges  on  the  right  after  3^4  M.  more 
and  passes  the  prison  (see  p.  136).  Our  road  leads  in  a  straight  direction 
to  (21/4  M.)  Two  Bridges  (Saracen's  Head),  a  pleasant  stopping-place  tor  the 
pedestrian  or  angler.  A  little  to  the  N.  is  Crockern  Tor,  on  which  the 
Stannary  Parliaments  (p.  136)  were  originally  held.  Not  far  off  is  Wist- 
man''s  Wood,  a  singular  group  of  ancient  dwarf-oaks,  the  only  relic  of 
the  'Forest'.  The  road  here  forks,  the  N.  arm  leading  to  Chagford  and 
Moreton  Hampstead,  the  S.  arm  to  (12  M.)  Ashburton  (p.  134),  on  the  S.  E. 
margin  of  the  Forest.  The  latter  coincides  to  some  extent  with  the  course 
of  the  Dart,  the  wooded  scenery  of  which  is  very  fine  at  places.  The  road 
to  Mureton  Hampstead  maintains  a  N.E.  direction  and  crosses  some  uf  the 
highest  ground  in  the  Forest.  Near  (81/2  M.)  Post  Bridge  (Temperance 
Hotel)  is  Clapper  Bridge,  a  picturesque  old  structure  of  granite  slabs 
over  the  Dart.  At  Merripit,  1  M.  bevond  Post  Bridire,  a  road  diverges 
on  the  right  to  (5  M.)  Widdecomhe  (p.'  134).  About  \>ji  M.  farther  on,  a 
track  on  the  right  leads  to  the  Vitiftr  Tin  Mine  and  (2  M.)  Grimspitmd,  a 
curious  enclosure,  the  object  of  w  hich  is  uncertain.  After  8  M.  more  we 
reach  Bector,  where  the  road  to  (2'/'2M.)  Chagford  diverges  to  the  lett,  while 
that  to  (3  M.)  Moreton  Hampstead  (p.  130)  continues  in  the  same  direction. 

Chagford  (Moor  Park;  Globe;  Three  Crowns;  King's  Ai-ms)  is  a  small 
town  with  1500  inhab.,  conveniently  situated  for  various  interesting  ex- 
cursions in  Dartmoor  (information  given  by  Mr.  James  Perrott).  Among 
the  most  attractive  spots  in  the  vicinity  are  Hush/ord  Castle  (I'/^M.  to  the 
N. ;  modern),  Gidleigh  Castle,  a  Norman  ruin  (21/-.:  ^I-  to  theN.W.),  and  Cran- 
brook  Castle  (a  British  camp)  and  Fingle  Bridge  (872  and  4  M.  to  the  N.E.). 
A  longer  excursion  may  be  made  to  Castor  Rock.,  the  Gidleigh  Antiquities^ 


l^S   Route  17.  PLYMOUTH.  Hotels. 

and  Cranmere  Pool^  a  round  of  about  18  M.  (7-8  hrs.;  guide  desirable).  The 
antiquities  are  spread  over  a  wide  area,  and  include  several  curious  stone 
circles  and  avenues,  a  British  slab-bridge,  cromlechs,  etc.  Cranmere  Pool 
(drained)  is  a  lonely  hollow  surrounded  with  morasses,  and  not  easily- 
found  without  help.  The  ascent  of  Cawsand  Beacon  (p.  135)  may  be  com- 
bined with  this  excursion;  and  those  who  do  not  wish  to  return  to  Chag- 
ford  may  make  their  way  from  Cranmere  Pool  to  (8  M.)  Lidford,  (9  M.) 
Two  Bridges,  or  (6^/2  M.)  Okehampton.  From  Chagford  omnibuses  ply 
twice  dally  to  Moreton  Hampstead,  once  to  Yeoford. 

From  Two  Bridges  (see  p.  137)  the  active  pedestrian  may  explore  much 
of  the  most  characteristic  scenery  of  Dartmoor  bv  walking  due  N.  to 
(16  M. ;  7  hrs.)  Okehampton  (p.  134).  The  route  leads  by  (6  M.)  Cut  Hill 
(1970  ft. ;  top  marked  by  a  turf  mound)  and  (2  M.)  Cranmere  Pool  (see  above); 
and  Yes  Tor  (2050  ft.;  'p.  134),  the  highest  point  in  Dartmoor,  may  be 
included  by  a  digression  to  the  left.     No  inn  is  passed  on  the  way. 

From  Princetown  (p.  136)  a  pleasant  route  for  walkers  leads  through 
the  S.  part  of  Dartmoor  to  (14  M.)  Ivy  Bridge  (p.  134).  The  most  inter- 
esting points  passed  on  the  way  are  the  (2V2  M.)  Nuns  Cross,  a  granite 
cross,  71/2  ft.  high,  (5  M.)  Erme  Pound,  and  the  (21/2  M.)  Three  Barrows 
(1524  ft.),  a  line  point  of  view. 

Beyond  Tavistock  the  L.  S.  W.  R.  runs  considerably  to  the  W. 
of  the  G.  W.  R.  —  48V2  M.  Beer  Alston,  1  M.  from  Calstock 
(p.  142).  Beyond  (51 Y-2  M.)  Beer  Ferris  we  cross  the  Tavy  and  skirt 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Tamar(i^.  141).  To  the  right  is  the  Royal  Albert 
Bridge  (p.  141).  553/4  M.  St.  Budeaux  (for  Saltash,  p.  142) ;  57  M. 
Ford ;  58  M.  Devonport  (see  p.  141).  We  then  pass  the  suburban 
stations  of  Mutley  and  North  Road  and  enter  the  Friary  Terminus  at 
(621/2  M.)  Plymouth.  —  Some  trains  go  on  to  Plymstock  (omnibus 
to  Modbury.  9  M.),  Oresion,  and  (10  min.)  Turnchapel. 

Plymouth.  —  Hotels.  Duke  of  Cornwall  (PI.  a;  D,  8),  opposite 
Mill  Bay  Terminus:  Royal  (Pl.b;  D,3),  Millbay  Road,  near  the  station; 
'Grand  (PL  c;  D.  3),  finelv  situated  on  the  Hoe,  the  only  hotel  with  a 
view  of  the  Sound,  R.  &  A.  5s.;  Albion  (PI.  e;  D,  3),  Millbay  Road; 
Globe  (PI.  m;  E,  2),  Bedford  St.;  Lockyer's  Hotel  &  Restaurant;  West- 
minster, Princess  Sq.,  Mount  Pleasant  (PI.  f;  D,  3),  adjoining  the  Duke 
of  Cornwall,  unpretendins,  these  two  are  temperance  hotels.  '  Chubbs  (PI.  g; 
E,  2),  Old  Town  St.;  Farlets  (PI.  h;  D,  2),  Union  St.  —  In  Devonport: 
Royal  (PI.  j),  Thomas's  (PI.  k),  both  in  Fore  St.  (PI.  A,  2).  —  In  Stone- 
house:  Brunswick.  —  Matthew's  Restaurant,  11  Bedford  St.,  table-dhote 
1-8  p.m.  2s.  Qd. ;  Raihcay  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  principal  stations. 

Cabs.  Under  1  M.,  1-2  pers.  8d.,  3-4  pers.  Is. ;  each  addit.  V2M.  4d.  or  6<f. 

Tramways.  From  the  Clock  Tower  (PI.  C,  2;  p.  140)  to  Stonehouse 
and  Devonport,  every  5  or  10  min.  ;  from  Belgrave  Road  to  Radford  Road, 
West  Hoe,  every  '/4  br.  ;  from  the  Market  to  Lower  Compton  Road,  every 
6  or  8  min.  ;  from  the  Theatre  Royal  to  Friary  Station  and  Laira  Bridge, 
every  1/4  hr,' —  Omnibuses.  From  Millbay  Station  (PL  D,  3)  to  Laira,  every 
V2  hr.,  and  to  Lipson,  every  V2  br. ;  from  the  Theatre  Royal  to  ilannamead, 
every  20  min. ;  from  the  Clock  Tower  to  Salisbury  Road,  every  20  min. ; 
from"  Old  Town  St.  to  Stoke,  every  1/2  ^^-  '■>  ^tc 

Theatres.  Grand  Theatre,  Union  St.  (PLC,  2),  Stonehouse;  Theatre 
Royal  (PL  D,  3),   in   the  same  building  as  the  Royal  Hotel. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Millbay  Station  (PL  D,  3),  terminus  of  the  G.  W. 
R.,  near  the  Docks  and  the  Hoe;  2.  Friary  Station  (PL  F,  2),  terminus  of 
the  L.  S.  W.  R.,  in  the  W.  of  Plymouth;  3.  North  Road  Station  (PL  E,  1), 
in  the  N.  suburb,  a  joint  station  of  both  lines  ;  4.  Devonport  and  Stone- 
house Station  (PL  B.  2),  belonging  to  the  L.S.W.R.;  5.  Cornwall  Station 
(PL  B,  1),  of  the  G.W.R.,  at  Devonport;  6.  Mutley  Station  (PL  E,  1), 
G.W.R.,  see  above;  7.  Ford  Station,  L.S.W.R.,  see  above. 

Steamers.     To  London  (15s.,  lis.)  and  Southampton  thrice  weekly;  to 


% 


^s^. 


The  Hoe.  PLYMOUTH.  17.  Route.    139 

Portsmouth,  Falmouth  (5s.,  Ik$.),Dnhlin.  Glasgow  (25«.,  12s.  6f7.),  twice  weekly; 
to  Newhaven  (15.«f.,  75.  6(i.l,  Cork  (20«.,  1U«.),  Wattrford,  Belfast^  Bristol,  once 
weekly,  etc.  —  Tu  the  Channel  Islamjls,  see  p.  84.  —  Liners  also  call  here 
to  and  from  Australia  (Orient  Line),  Xew  Zealand,  ^oulh  Africa,  etc.  — 
Excursion  Steamers  (Rowe's ,  etc.)  ply  in  summer  at  frequent  intervals, 
and  at  moderate  fares,  to  the  Breakwater,  Ml.  Edycumhe.  Eddystone  Light- 
house, the  Tamar,  the  Yealm,  etc.  —  Ferries  from  the  Admiral's  Hard 
(PL  B,  3)  to  Cremill  (Mt.  Edgcumbe);  from  Mutton  Cove  (PL  A,  3)  to  Cremill; 
from  the  Barbican  (PI.  E,  3)  to  Turnchapel  and  Oreston  ;  from  Ferry  Road 
(PL  A,  2)  to  Torpoint.  Fares  Id.  or  2d.  Also,  from  North  Corner  (PL  A,  2) 
to  Saltash,  at  30  min.  past  each  hour. 

Post  Office,  in  Guildhall  Sq.    —    U.  S.  Consul,  Mr.  Joseph  J.  Stevens. 

Chief  Attractions.  The  Hoe  (see  below);  Devonport  Dockyard  (p.  141); 
Breakwater  (p.  140);  Mt.  Edgcumbe  (p.  141);  trip  up  the  Tamar  (p.  141); 
Eddystone  Lighthouse  (p.  142;  for  good  sailors  only);  Barbican  (p.  140j; 
Municipal  Buildings  and  Guildhall  (p.  14U) ;  the  Museum  (p.  140);  the 
collection  of  drawings  in  Plymouth  Library  (p.  140). 

Plymouth,  Stonehouse,  and  Devonport,  the  'Three  Towns',  with 
a  joint  population  of  ahout  190,000,  together  form  one  of  the  most 
important  seaports  in  England,  thanks  to  the  Sound,  in  which  the 
largest  vessels  can  ride  safely  at  anchor,  and  to  the  excellent 
harbours  afforded  by  its  arms,  the  Cattewater,  or  mouth  of  the  Plym, 
Sutton  Pool,  and  the  Hamoaze,  or  estuary  of  the  Tamar.  Plymouth 
was  first  fortified  in  the  14th  cent.,  and  it  is  now  a  stronghold  of  the 
first  class,  its  defences  including  a  girdle  of  outlying  forts.  The 
various  barracks  can  accommodate  a  garrison  of  5000  men. 

Plymouth  has  long  been  known  as  one  of  the  chief  naval  and  mer- 
cantile harbours  of  Great  Britain,  and  it  witnessed  the  departure  of  many 
of  the  most  noted  expeditions  of  Drake,  Hawkins,  Cook,  and  other  famous 
mariners.  Lord  Howard  of  Effingham  sailed  hence  to  encounter  the  Armada 
(1588),  and  here  the  Mayflower  set  sail  for  America  on  Sept.  6th,  1620 
(comp.  p.  80).  In  the  Civil  War  Plymouth  held  out  for  the  Parliament- 
arians when  all  the  rest  of  Devon  and  Cornwall  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
Royalists  and  defended  itself  successfully  during  a  siege  of  four  years. 
It  was  also  the  first  large  town  to  proclaim  William  of  Orange  king.  The 
town  now  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  West  Indies,  South 
America,  Australia,  the  Cape,  the  Baltic,  and  the  Mediterranean,  and 
numerous  large  merchant  vessels  are  almost  always  to  be  seen  in  the 
Cattewater.  The  chief  exports  are  copper,  lead,  "tin,  granite,  marble, 
china-clay,  bricks,  and  fish.  Many  of  the  emigrant  ships  for  Australia, 
New  Zealand,  and  British  North  America  start  from  Plymouth.  The 
Hamoaze  is  reserved  for  men-of-war. 

On  the  sea-front  of  the  town  is  the*Hoe(Pl.  D,  E,  3),  an  elevat- 
ed promenade  commanding  an  admirable  view  of  the  Sound.  In 
the  middle  of  it  rises  a  Statue  of  Sir  Francis  Drake  (p.  136),  who  is 
said  to  have  been  playing  bowls  here  when  news  was  brought  him 
tliat  the  Armada  was  in  sight  (see  Kingsley's  '  Westward  Ho  /', 
chap.  xxx).  The  statue  ,  erected  in  1884,  is  a  replica  of  that  at 
Tavistock  (p.  136).  Close  by  is  the  Armada  Tercentenary  Memorial. 
erected  in  1890.  To  the  E.  is  the  upper  part  of  Smeaton's  original 
Eddystone  Lighthouse  (adm.  Id.) ,  re-erected  here  in  188'2-84 
(comp.  p.  143).  The  *View  from  the  top  is  very  extensive,  in- 
cluding (on  a  clear  day")  the  Eddystone  Lighthouse,  14  M.  to  the  S. 
Beyond  Smeaton's  Tower  is  the  Citadel  (PI.  E,  3),  erected  in  1670, 
and  now  somewhat  out  of  date  as  a  fortress  (view  from  the  ram- 


no   Route  17.  PLYMOUTH.  The  Syund. 

parts).  Outside  its  walls  is  a  Marine  Laboratory,  opened  in  1888, 
with  an  aquarium  below.  Below  the  Hoe  are  a  fine  Promenade  Pier 
(adm.  Id. ;  hand)  and  the  Bathing  Places  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 
The  *Sound,  or  roadstead  of  Plymouth,  about  3  sq.  M.  in  ex- 
tent, is  one  of  the  finest  bays  on  the  S.  coast  of  England.  In  the 
middle  lies  the  small  fortified  St.  Nicholas  or  Brake's  Island  (PI.  C, 

D,  4).  To  the  W.  rises  Mount  Edgcumbe  (p.  141).  To  the  E. 
is  the  rocky  islet  of  Mewstone.  On  the  S.  side  the  entrance  to  the 
Sound  is  defended  by  the  *  Breakwater,  a  stupendous  piece  of  gra- 
nite masonry,  1  M.  in  length  ,  constructed  in  1812-40  at  a  cost  of 
1.580, 000 i.  The  top  forms  a  pleasant  promenade,  and  it  may  be 
reached  from  Plymouth  by  an  excursion-steamer  (Qd. ;  landing  in 
boat  Id.)  or  by  small  boat  [about  2s.).  At  the  W.  end  is  a  small 
Lighthouse,  the  top  of  which  affords  a  good  view  (small  gratuity  to 
the  keeper).  Just  inside  the  Breakwater  is  a  circular  fort  like 
those  at  Portsmouth  (p.  56).  The  entrance  to  the  Cattewater  (PI. 
F,  4)  is  also  sheltered  by  a  breakwater.  1000  ft.  long,  projecting 
from  Mount  Batten  Point.  'Kitchen  Middens'  found  here  prove 
the  existence  of  a  prehistoric  population   near  Plymouth. 

From  the  back  of  the  Citadel  we  may  descend  to  the  quaint 
bit  of  old  Plymouth  known  as  the  Barbican,  which  lies  on  the 
edge  of  Sutton  Pool  ['P\.E,Y,  3).  The  'Dutch  auctions'  of  fish  here 
are  amusing.  On  the  ground  in  front  of  the  Custom  House  is  a  slab 
and  on  the  adjoining  wall  is  an  inscription,  placed  here  in  1891  to 
commemorate  the  departure  of  the  'Mayflower'  (p.  139)  in  1620. 
—  Ferry  across  the  Cattewater,  see  p.  139. 

We  next  make  our  way  through  Southside  St.,  Notte  St.,  and 
St.  Andrew's  St.  to  the  Churcli  of  St.  Andrew  (PI.  E,  2),  dating 
from  the  15th  cent.,  and  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  in  1874-75. 
It  contains  some  interesting  monuments.  Adjoining  the  church  is 
a  Perp.  building  named  the  Prysten  House.  —  The  church  faces 
Guildhall  Sq.,  on  the  right  side  of  which  are  the  Municipal  Offices 
and  on  the  left  the  Guildhall,  two  handsome  modern  Gothic  edifices. 
The  fine  hall  in  the  latter.  148  ft.  long,  is  adorned  with  stained-glass 
windows  representing  scenes  from  the  town's  history  (including  the 
Departure  of  the  Pilgrims).  The  Mayor  s  Parlour,  on  the  other  side, 
contains  a  portrait  (with  quaint  inscriptions)  of  Sir  Francis  Drake 
(1545-96),  'fellow  traveller  of  the  Sunn',  who  once  sat  for  Ply- 
mouth in  Parliament  and  presented  the  town  with  the  aqueduct, 
which  supplies  it  with  water  from  Dartmoor,  24 M.  distant.  —  The 
fourth  side  of  the  square  is  occupied  by  the  Post  Office  (PI.  E,  2). 

Among  the  other  objects  of  interest  in  Plymouth  are  the  building 
comprising  the  Royal  Hotel  and  the  Theatre  (Pl.D,  3),  with  an  Ionic  por- 
tico; the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  (PI.  D.  2):  the  Home  of  the  Sisters  of 
Mercy,  North  Road;  the  Clock  Tower,  at  the  junction  of  George  St.  and 
Lockyer  St.:  the  Athenaeum  (PI.  D,  3),  containing  a  museum  and  a  gal- 
lery  of  art;   the   Plymouth  Library,   Cornwall  Sfr.,   near   the   Market  (PI. 

E,  2),  with  a  line  collection  of  prints  and  drawings  (Da  Vinci,  Rubens, 
Ruysdiel,  Correggio,  etc)  and  three  paintings  by  Reynolds  (open  on  Mon. ; 


Devonport.  PLYMOUTH.  17.  Route.    141 

at  other  times  on  application  to  the  librarian).  —  George  SI.  Baptist  Chapel 
occupies  the  site  of  the  huilding  in  which  the  'Pilgrim  Fathers'  were 
entertained  hefore  setting  sail. 

Stonehouse  (PI.  C,  3,  4)  is  the  seat  of  the  *Royai  William  Vic- 
tualling Yard,  a  huge  establishment  for  the  victualling  of  the  navy, 
constructed  in  1835  at  an  outlay  of  1 ,500,000^  and  covering  14  acres 
of  ground.  The  gateway  (Durnford  St.)  is  surmounted  by  a  colos- 
sal figure  of  William  IV.  Visitors  are  admitted  during  working 
hours  and  are  escorted  by  a  police-constable.  The  bakehouse  and 
the  cooperage  are  of  special  interest.  From  two  to  three  million 
pounds  of  salt-meat  are  always  kept  on  hand  in  this  yard,  and  the 
other  stores  are  in  like  proportions.  —  To  the  N.  stands  the  Royal 
Naval  Hospital  (JP\.G,  2),  which  has  accommodation  for  1200  patients. 
In  Durnford  St.  are  the  Royal  Marine  Barracks  (PI  C,  3),  with  room 
for  1500  men  (handsome  mess-room);  and  at  the  back  of  them  are 
the  Great  Western  Docks. 

Devonport  (PI.  A,  B,  2,  3),  situated  to  the  W.  of  Plymouth,  and 
at  a  considerably  higher  elevation,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  naval 
and  military  offlcials,  and  is  the  most  fashionable  part  of  the  town 
for  residences.  (Tramway,  seep.  138,  ending  close  to  the  entrance  to 
the  Dockyard;  boat  from  the  Adrnirais  Hard,  PI.  B,  3,  2d.  or  3rf.)- 
The  *Dockyard  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  resembles  that  at  Portsmouth  (p.  56), 
but  is  not  so  large  (visitors  admitted  at  10,  11,  2,  3,  and  4;  special 
order  requisite  for  the  Eopery) ;  it  affords  regular  employment  to 
about  3000  workpeople.  To  the  N.  of  the  Dockyard  is  the  Gun  Wharf 
(PI.  A,  2),  and  beyond  that  is  the  Keyham  Steam  Yard  (P\.  A,  1),  a 
most  imposing  establishment  with  huge  steam-docks  and  a  steam 
hammer  capable  of  striking  with  a  force  of  100  tons.  The  finest 
private  houses  are  in  Higher  Stoke.  The  blockhouse  at  the  top 
of  Stoke  Hill  commands  an  excellent  view,  and  so  does  the  top  of  the 
Devonport  Column  (PI.  A,  2;  125  ft.).  Mt.  Wise  is  a  fine  promen- 
ade, with  parade-ground  and  batteries. 

Excursions  from  Plymouth. 

1.  Strangers  should  not  omit  a  visit  to  *Mount  Edgcumbe,  the  seat 
of  the  Earl  of  Mount  Edgcumbe,  which  is  reached  by  the  ferry  from  Ad- 
miral's Hard  (fare  2d.  or  3d.)  to  Cremill  (PI.  A,  4;  3l"t.  Edgcumbe  Arms); 
excursion-steamers  also  ply  to  Cuicmnd  (Kings  Arms),  in  Cawsand  Bay, 
opposite  the  Breakwater.  The  house  itself  i*!  not  shown,  but  the  park  is 
open  to  the  public  on  Wed.  (on  t>ther  days  by  special  permission  obtained 
at  the  Manor  Office,  Emma  Place,  Stonehouse).  The  "Park,  which  occupies 
the  whole  peninsula  between  the  Sound  and  the  Hamoaze,  contains  magni- 
ficent trees  and  is  traversed  by  beautiful  walks.  Camellias  and  palms 
grow  here  in  the  open  air.  The  Gardens  (special  order  necessary)  are 
tastefully  laid  out  in  the  Italian,  the  French,  and  the  English  styles,  and 
include  a  large  orangery.  A  visit  to  Mt.  Edgcumbe  requires  at  least  2  hrs. ; 
guide  to  the  chief  points  Is.  6(i. 

2.  Btj  the  Tamar  to  Weir  Head.  This  excursion  may  be  accomplished 
by  steamer  (return -fare  is.  6(f . ;  half- a- day)  or  by  a  boat  chartered  for 
the  occasion  (a  day).  The  Tamar  ("great  water')  separates  Devon  from 
Cornwall.  Passing  throutrh  the  Hamoaze,  we  reach  the  actual  mouth 
of  the   Tamar,    3  M.  to  the  N.W.,    which  is   crossed   by    the   -Royal  Al- 


142   Route  17.  PLYMOUTH. 

bert  Bridge  of  the  G.W.E.  line  to  Cornwall.  This  gigantic  iron  structure, 
750  yds.  long,  10  yds.  wide,  and  100  ft.  above  the  water,  was  built  by 
Brunei  in  1859  and  cost  250,000^.  The  two  chief  arches  have  each  a 
span  of  450  ft.  The  tubular  principle  (comp.  p.  293)  has  also  been  adopted 
here ,  but  the  train  runs  on  a  roadway  suspended  from  the  tubes. 
Considerable  difficulty  was  experienced  in  its  construction  owing  to  the 
depth  of  the  water  (65  ft.),  and  the  foundations  of  the  piers  are  20  ft. 
below  the  bottom.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  bridge  lies  Saltash  f  ff rce«  Dragon)^  a 
quaint-looking  fishing-town  (2745inhab.),  whence  visitors  may  walk  on  to 
the  bridge  (3d.).  The  women  of  Saltash  are  famous  for  their  rowing,  often 
beating  the  men  at  regattas.  Ferry  to  St.  Budeaux,  see  p.  188.  Coaches  to 
Callington,  see  p.  136.  Beyond  the  bridge  the  Tamar  again  expands,  and 
at  high  water  resembles  a"  beautiful  lake.  To  the  N.W.  the  Great  Mis  Tor 
(p.  137)  is  visible.  The  second  branch  to  the  right  is  the  Tavy.  To  the 
left,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Tavy,  is  Landulph.,  in  the  church  of 
which  is  buried  Theodore  Paleologtis  (d.  1637),  a  scion  of  a  famous  race. 
On  the  left,  4  M.  above  Saltash,  is  Pentillie  Castle^  with  beautiful  grounds. 
At  Cotehele^  2'  2  M.  farther  on,  the  river  is  very  narrow.  Cotehele  House, 
a  Tudor  mansion,  with  a  fine  baronial  hall  and  interesting  old  tapestry  and 
furniture,  is  generally  open  to  visitors.  The  river  now  makes  a  bend  to  the 
right  and  reaches  Calstock  ( Ashburton  Hotel)  and  Morwellham  Quay  (Ship 
Inn).  Time  for  tea  is  generally  allowed  at  Calstock  by  the  steamers.  Fine 
view  from  Calstock  church.  The  most  picturesque  part  of  the  river  begins 
here,  the  *Morwell  Rocks  rising  precipitously  to  a  height  of3(X)ft.  The 
steamers  rarely  get  quite  so  far  as  Weir  Head  (about  20  M.  from  Ply- 
mouth), but  there  is  much  fine  river-scenery  farther  on,  which  may 
be  visited  by  small  boat. 

3.  To  St.  Germans  and  Port  Eliot,  10  M.  This  excursion  is  made  by 
boat  on  the  St.  Germans  River  or  Lynher  Creek,  which  diverges  from  the 
Hamoazeto  the  left,  below  Saltash.  On  the  right,  2M.  from  Saltash,  laTrema- 
lon  Castle  .1  the  grounds  of  which  are  open  to  the  public  on  Wednesdays. 
Opposite  (ferry  Id.)  is  Antony  House  ,  situated  in  a  fine  park ,  and  con- 
taining a  good  collection  of  pictures  (special  permission  necessary).  Farther 
up,  the  river  is  luxuriantly  wooded.  St.  Germans  (Eliot  Arms),  a  station 
on  the  G.  W.  R.,  possesses  a  Church  (restored  in  1894)  showing  an  in- 
teresting mixture  of  the  Norman  (doorway),  E.  E.,  and  Perp.  styles. 
St.  Germans  was  the  seat  of  the  old  Cornish  bishopric,  and  the  names 
of  12  bishops  are  preserved  in  the  church.  Close  by  is  Port  Eliot,  the 
seat  of  Earl  St.  Germans,  with  a  park  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  by 
the  gardener. 

4.  To  Oreston  Quarries  and  Saltram,  4  M.,  a  charming  small-boat 
trip  on  the  Catfewater.  Saltram  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Morley, 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  pictures,  including  16  portraits  by  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  and  specimens  of  Titian,  Rubens,  and  Correggio.  Visitors  re- 
quire an  order  from  the  Earl.  The  finely-wooded  park  is  open  to  the 
public  on  Mondays.  This  excursion  may  be  combined  with  the  following 
by  walking  from  Saltram  to  Plym  Bridge   and  Marsh  Mills  (see  below). 

5.  To  (he  Vale  of  Bickleigh.  This  excursion  is  most  conveniently  be- 
gun at  Marsh  Mills  (p.  136),  whence  we  may  walk  through  the  narrow 
wooded  valley  to  (41/2  M.)  Bickleigh  (p.  136).  The  road  through  the  vale 
is  not  open  except  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Saturdays.  To  the  right  is  Bo- 
ringdon  House,  lying  high  and  commanding  a  wide  view.  Beyond  Bick- 
leigh the  walk  may  be  extended  to  Shaugh  Prior,  the  valley  of  the  Cad, 
and  the  villages  of  Meavy  and  Sheeps  Tor  (comp.  p.  136). 

6.  To  Eame  Head  and  Whitesand  Bay.  This  excursion  is  best  made 
by  taking  the  excursion -steamer  to  Cawsand  (p.  141),  which  is  about 
2  M.  from  *Rame  Head,  the  southernmost  promontory  of  the  peninsula 
on  which  Mt.  Edgcumbe  stands.  Whitesand  Bay,  with  its  fine  sandy 
beach  and  background  of  clififs  (bathing  dangerous),  extends  in  a  beautiful 
curve  from  Rame  Head  to  Looe  Island.  Walkers  may  return  to  Cremill 
(p.  141).  either  by  the  coast  via  Penlee  Point  and  Cawsand  (6  M.)  or  via 
Millbrook  (4  M.). 

7.  To  Eddy  stone  Lighthouse,    14  M.  Excursion-steamers   ply  frequently 


LISKEARD.  18.  Route.    143 

to  the  lighthouse  in  summer,  but  passengers  are  seldom  landed.  The  first 
lighthouse  erected  here  in  1697  was  washed  away  six  years  after  its  com- 
pletion; the  second,  of  wood,  was  burned  down  in  1755.  The  third,  or 
Smeaton's  Lighthouse,  a  tower  of  masonry,  95  ft.  high,  stood  here  from 
1757  to  1882,  but  had  then  to  be  removed,  owing  to  the  insecurity  of  its 
base  (comp.  p.  139).  The  pre.sent  lighthouse,  135  ft.  in  height,  was  built 
by  Sir  J.  N.  Douglass,  at  a  cost  of  80,000/.  The  light-keepers  are  three 
in  number,  each  of  whom  has  a  month''s  holiday  in  summer. 

From  Plymouth  to  Truro  and  Penzance^  see  R.  18.  —  Dartmoor^ 
see  p.  136. 

18.  From  Plymouth  to  Truro  and  Penzance.  Falmouth. 

BOM.  G.W.RAiLWATin3-4hrs.  (fare8l3«.3d.,8«.  4(i.,  ^s.l^l^d.).  Trains 
start  from  Millbay  Station  (p.  138)  and  stop  again  at  the  Devonport  Station, 
The  line  is  remarkable  for  its  numerous  lofty  viaducts.  —  Steamboats 
also   ply  at  intervals  from  Plymouth  to  Falmouth  and  Penzance. 

The  county  of  Cornwall,  which  this  railway  traverses,  offers  much  to 
interest,  the  chief  attraction  being  the  grand  rocky  scenery  of  the  coast  near 
the  Land's  End.  The  climate  is  exceedingly  mild;  myrtles  and  certain  kinds 
of  palms  thrive  luxuriantly  in  the  open  air,  while  orange-trees  and 
vines  only  require  the  protection  of  matting  in  winter.  The  average  tem- 
perature in  winter  is  50",  in  summer  GO"  Fahr.  The  great  economical 
importance  of  Cornwall  arose  from  its  rich  mines  of  copper,  tin,  lead,  and 
silver;  but  foreign  competition  has  for  some  years  past  closed  many  mines. 
The  tin-mines  of  Cornwall  were  worked  by  the  Phoenicians  long  before 
the  Christian  era.  The  maximum  production  of  copper  ore  in  Cornwall 
and  Devon  was  reached  in  1861,  when  180,000  tons,  worth  upwards  of 
1,000,000/.,  were  brought  to  the  surface.  Nowadays,  it  has  been  said, 
one  must  go  to  Nevada  to  see  Cornish  miners.  The  pilchard  and  other 
lisheries  are  also  important.  The  Celtic  origin  (if  the  inhabitants  is 
still  often  perceptible  in  their  dark  hair  and  complexions.  Their  ancient 
language,  closely  akin  and  to  Breton  Welsh,  is  now  extinct.  The  last 
person  who  spoke  it  is  said  to  have  died  in  1777  (see  p.  149) ;  but  the  Rev. 
W.  S.  Lach  Szyrma  in  his  'Short  History  of  Penzance'  states  that  he 
found  two  or  three  persons  in  Mousehole  who  could  count  up  to  20  in 
old  Cornish.  The  prefixes  'Tre\  'PoF,  and  'Pen',  which  occur  so  frequently 
in  names,  mean  'dwelling', 'pool',  and  'summit'  or  'head'.  Several  books 
in  Cornish  are  extant.  Cornwall  is  famous  for  its  'squab"  and  other 
pasties,  made  out  of  such  heterogeneous  materials  that  the  devil,  accord- 
ing to  a  local  proverb,  will  not  enter  the  county  for  fear  of  being  put  into 
a  pie.  The  Prince  of  Wales  bears  the  title  of  Duke  of  Cornwall,  and  has 
valuable  estates  in  the  county.  —  Geological  travellers  should  procure 
Sir  Henry  de  la  Beche^s  'Geology  of  Cornwall,  Devon,  and  West  Somerset'. 

Soon  after  leaving  Devonport  (p.  141)  the  train  crosses  the 
Tamar  by  the  Royal  Albert  Bridge  (p.  141 ;  *View),  and  reaches 
(4'/2  M.)  Saltash  (p.  142).  The  line  skirts  the  Lynher,  a  scene  of 
great  beauty  at  high  tide.  d^/oM.  St.  Germans  (p.  142);  14'/2  ^I- 
Menheniot  (omn.  twice  daily  to  Looe;  7  M. ;  is.  Gd.). 

18  M.  Liskeard  (Webb's,  on  the  Parade;  Stag),  a  small  town 
with  3984  inhab.,  is  a  good  centre  for  a  fe^v  pleasant  excursions. 

On  the  coast,  8  M.  to  the  S.,  is  Looe  (Ship),  a  small  seaport,  embowered 
in  myrtles  and  other  exotics.  It  may  be  reached  bv  a  narrow-iiauge  line  in 
1  hr.  from  Moorswafer,  1V«  M.  to  the  W.  of  Liskeard.  The  road  (9  M.) 
skirts  a  canal  and  passes  St.  Keynes  Well,  the  subject  of  a  ballad  by 
Southey.  About  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Looe  lies  Polperro  ("Oliver's  Tourist; 
Ship),  perhaps  the  quaintest  and  most  characteristic  of  Cornish  fishing- 
villages,  tightly  wedged  into  a  narrow  ravine,  beyond  which  we  may  follow 
the  road  to  the  W.  (no  coast-path)  to  (6M.)  Bodennick  ferry,  opposite  Fowey 
(p.  144).  —  To  the  N.  a  picturesque  walk  of  about  7  M.  may  be  taken  from 


144    Route  18.  TRURO.  From  Plymouth 

Liskeard  to  (2^4  M.)  St.  Cleer  (with  remains  interesting  to  the  anti- 
quarian), the  (3',4  51)  ffurlers,  three  stone  circles,  and  the  (1  M.)  DeviVs 
Cheesewring  (i.e.  cheese-press),  a  curious  pile  of  granite  rocks.  30  ft.  high. 
Ahout  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  St.  Cleer  is  Trevethy's  Cromlech.  —  At  St.  Neofs 
(Carlyon  Arms),  0V2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Liskeard,  is  a  f5ne  Perp.  church 
of  14S0,  with  celebrated  stained-glass  windows  of  the  14-15th  cent.  (comp. 
below).  Between  St.  Neots  and  the  Cheesewring  is  Dozmare  Fool,  the  lake 
into  which  King  Arthur  is  said  to  have  thrown  Excalibur  (p.  1.56).  The 
Cornish  man-demon  Tregeagle  is  condemned  to  empty  the  pool  with  a 
limpet-shell,  a  penalty  for  unjust  stewardship  when  in  his  human  form. 
—  Coach  from  Liskeard  to  (18  M.)  Tavistock,  see  p.  136. 

Beyond  Liskeard  the  train  crosses  the  lofty  Moorswater  Viaduct 
and  reaches  (2i  M.)  Doublebois.  Several  viaducts.  27  M.  Bodmin 
Road  (Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the  Fowey,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch- 
line  to  (III/4M.)  Wadebridge  (p.  154;  coach  to  Padstow). 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  S. ,  passes,  on  the  right,  Lanhydrock, 
the  seat  of  Lord  Robartes  (visitors  admitted),  and  Rest ormel  Castle^ 
built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  IlL,  and  reaches  (301/2  ^^O  Losticithiel 
(Royal  Talbot) ,  a  small  town  on  the  Fowey.  It  is  a  good  trout- 
flshing  centre  and  possesses  a  fine  church-steeple,  surmounted  by 
an  open-work  lantern.  The  sj-cal  led  *Pa7ace  of  the  Dukes  of  Corn- 
walV  is  interesting  to  antiquarians.  —  35  M.  Par  (Royal),  ^ith 
silver  smelting- works  and  china- clay  works ,  is  the  junction  of 
railways  to  Newquay  on  the  N.  (p.  154),  and  to  (4M.")  Fowey  on  the  S. 

From  Par  to  Fowet,  4  M.,  railway  in  20  min.,  via  St.Blazey.,  the  junc- 
tion for  (21  3L)  Xewquay  (see  p.  154).  —  Fowey  (Fow^y  Hotel;  Ship;  Si. 
Catharine  House,  private  hotel),  pron.  ^Foy\  which  has  been  described  as 
a  'miniature  Dartmouth",  is  a  small  seaport,  with  a  picturesque  harbour, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Fowey.  The  'Gallants  of  Fowey'  in  the  14th  cent, 
are  said  to  have  helped  largely  in  the  foundation  of  England's  naval 
greatness  before  the  time  of  Drake  and  the  other  'Sea-dogs  of  Devon'.  — 
To  Polperro  and  Looe,  see  p.  143. 

The  beauty  of  the  district  now  traversed  is  marred  by  numerous 
mines  and  the  white  refuse  of  kaolin,  or  china-clay,  which  is 
found  here  in  great  abundance.  40  M.  Si.  Austell  (White  Hart; 
Globe)  is  a  busy  little  mining-town.  The  handsome  church  is  in 
good  preservation ;  and  its  exterior ,  together  with  the  interior 
of  St.  Neot's  (see  above),  aifords  a  good  idea  of  a  Cornish  mediaeval 
church.  About  3  M.  to  the  N.  rises  Hensbarrow  Beacon  (1030  ft. ; 
view),  which  Carew  (1602)  calls  the  'Archbeacon  of  Cornwall' 
('Survey  of  Cornwall";  p.  138).  —  47  M.  Grampound  Road,  the  sta- 
tion for  (272^1')  Probus,  with  a  fine  church-tower,  and  (4  M.) 
Tregony.   Near  Truro  we  cross  two  long  viaducts. 

54  M.  Truro  (*Red  Lion,  R.  &  A.  3s.  Qd. ;  *Royal),  the  mining 
capital  of  Cornwall,  is  an  ancient  town  with  11,131  inhab.,  situated 
at  the  head  of  a  pretty  creek  of  the  Fat.  In  1877  it  became  the 
sea  of  the  resuscitated  bishopric  of  Cornwall,  and  a  handsome 
E.  E.  Cathedral,  by  Pearson,  is  being  erected  on  the  site  of  the  old 
church  of  St.  Mary  ,  a  part  of  which  fPerp.)  has  been  incorporated 
in  the  new  building  (S.  side  of  choir).  The  E.  end  and  transepts 
were  consecrated  in  1887;  the  nave  has  yet  to  be  built.    The  Bap- 


to  Penzance.  FALMOUTH.  18.  Route.    145 

tistery  is  a  memorial  of  Henry  Martyn  (1781-1812),  the  missionary, 
a  native  of  Truro.  —  The  *  Museum  ( adra.  Gd. ;  free  on  Wed.  11-5) 
contains  Cornu-British  antiquities  and  Cornish  birds.  The  Red 
Lion  Hotel,  dating  from  1671,  was  the  birthplace  of  Samuel  Foots 
(1720-77),  the  actor  and  playwright. 

Among  the  interesting  points  near  Truro  are  the  grounds  of  (3  M.) 
Tre'jothnan,  on  the  E.  Lank  of  the  Fal ;  the  ancient  ruined  church  of  St. 
Firan^  8  M.  to  the  N.W.,  long  hidden  by  the  sand  which  had  been  bbtwn 
over  it,  and  believed  to  be  the  oratory  where  St.  Piranus  officiated  in  the 
6th  cent. ;  and  the  Isnioc  Cross,  at  St.  Clemeni's,  IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  Numerous 
pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  on  the  Fal  (to  Falmouth,  see  below),  and 
omnibuses  ply  to  Probus,  St.  Agnes,  etc. 

From  Truro  to  Falmouth,  II1/2M.,  railway  in  20-30  mi n.  (fares  2*., 
Is.  3d.,  is.).  Near  (5  M.)  Perranwell  is  the  country-seat  of  CarcUw,  with 
fine  gardens  containing  many  exotic  plants.  —  9  M.  Fenryn  (King's  Arms), 
at  the  head  of  Fenryn  Creek  (view  to  the  left),  carries  on  an  extensive 
trade  in  granite  and  contains  some  traces  of  the  once  famous  Glasney  Abbey. 
An  omnibus  [^Is.)  plies  hence  to  (iU  31.)  Helston  (p.  146). 

[A  much  pleasanter  way  of  proceeding  from  Truro  to  Falmouth  is  by 
the  little  steamer  which  plies  up  and  down  the  Fal  every  day  in  sum- 
mer (10  M.,  in  l'/4  hr, ;  fare  Is.).  For  the  first  2  M.  we  descend  what 
is  known  as  Truro  Lake  or  River,  a  ramification  of  the  Fal.  On  entering 
the  Fal  proper  we  have  Tregothnan  (see  above)  to  the  left,  while  farther  on 
the  woods  of  Trelissick  cover  the  bank  to  the  right.  The  steamer  then 
reaches  the  Carrick  Road,  or  wider  part  of  the  Fal  estuary,  passes  the 
mouth  of  Restronguet  Creek  (to  the  right),  and  enters  Fenryn  Creek,  at 
the  mouth  of  which  Falmouth  lies.] 

Falmouth  {Falmouth,  Fendennis,  both  on  the  neck  of  the  peninsula, 
near  the  station,  with  a  sea-view  both  to  the  back  and  front;  "Oreen 
Bank,  IV2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station  and  3/4  M.  from  the  landing-stage, 
with  a  view  of  the  harbour,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  table  dhote  As.Qd.;  Royal,  in 
the  town,  well  spoken  of),  a  small  and  somewhat  foreign-looking  seaport 
with  4787  inhab.,  was  formerly  an  important  mail-packet  station,  but  is 
now  chiefly  known  as  a  watering-place.  It  is  still,  however,  a  port  of  call 
for  vessels  waiting  for  orders  and  for  yachts.  U.  S.  Consul,  Howard  For, 
Esq.,  48  Arwenack  St.  The  scenery  of  the  estuary  of  the  Fal  is  very 
picturesque,  and  charming  water-excursions  may  be  taken  in  Falmouth 
Harbour  (sailing -boat  2s.,  row-boat  Is,  per  hr.).  In  fine  weather  ex- 
cursion-steamers ply  to  the  Lizard,  Penzance,  etc.,  and  trips  are  also  made 
by  sailing-yachts.  Falmouth  has  bi-weekly  steamboat  communication 
with  London  (I'/'j  day) ,  Dublin,  etc.  The  bathing  is  good.  Palms  and 
other  tropical  plants  grow  here  in  the  open  air  without  protection,  and 
the  visitor  should  try  to  obtain  access  to  one  of  the  lovely  private  gardens. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  at  Falmouth  is  Pendennis  Castle,  an  old 
Tudor  fastness  at  the  E.  extremity  of  the  peninsula  on  v^hich  the  town 
stands  (2/4  M.  from  the  station).  It  is  celebrated  for  its  siege  in  the  Civil 
War  and  is  still  maintained  as  a  fortress.  The  'View  from  it  is  very 
fine.  A  pleasant  drive  has  been  constructed  round  the  promontory,  passing 
below  the  castle.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  estuary  (steam-ferry; 
return -fare  BVW.)  is  Si.  Maices  Castle,  another  coast-defence  erected 
by  Henry  VIII.  —  On  the  way  to  Pendennis  we  pass  the  remains  of 
Arwenack  House,  the  seat  of  the  once  powerful  but  now  extinct  family 
of  the  Killigrew^  (memorial  obelisk  in  front).  Excursions  may  also  be 
made  to  (2  31.)  Fenfyn  (see  above),  at  the  head  of  Penryn  Creek,  and  to  Flush- 
ing (ferry  '/ati?.,  starting  behind  the  GreenBank  Hotel)  on  itsN.  bank,  whence 
we  may  walk  across  the  hill  to  Mylor,  on  Carrick  Road  (see  above). 

A  coach  plies  daily  in  summer  from  Falmouth  to  Fenryn  and 
(12'/2  31. ;  fare  2s.  6t/.)  Helston  (see  p.  146),  where  it  corresponds  with  coaches 
for  the  (11  31.)  Lizard  and  (13  31.)  Penzance  (see  p.  148).  The  direct  road 
from  Falmouth  to  the  Lizard  (18  31.)  leads  by  Oweek,  at  the  head  of  the  Hel- 
ford  Estuary,  and  through  Trelowarren  Park  (carr.  and  pair  30s.;  driver  5s.); 

Baedekers  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit.  10 


146     Route  18.  REDRUTH.  From  Plymouth 

in  the  season  a  four-horse  brake  runs  by  this  route  from  Falmouth  to 
Lizard  Town  and  Kynance  Cove  (see  p.  147).  Near  Trelowarren  House 
is  a  very  singular  series  of  underground  chambers,  a  standing  puzzle 
to  archaeologists.  The  coast-route  (for  pedestrians;  about  25  M.)  leads 
via  (2  M.)  MaenpoT-th,  (2  M.)  Mawnan  Smith,  (2  M.)  Helford  Passage  (ferry), 
(1  M.)  Manaccan,  and  (4  M.)  St.  Keverne  (Inn),  and  thence  by  the  cliffs  to 
(31/2  M.)  Coverack.,  (2  M.)  Black  Head,  (4  M.)  Poltesco  (serpentine  works), 
(I  M.)  Cadgwith  (p.  147),  and  (3  M.)  Lizard  Town  (p.  147).  The  direct  walk- 
ing distance  from  Helford  Passage  to  Lizard  Town,  via  Newtown,  is  10  M. 

At  (59  M.)  Chacewater  we  cross  the  valley  by  a  Mgh  wooden 
viaduct.  In  the  distance,  to  the  N.W.,  rises  St.  Agnes's  Beacon 
(630  ft.). 

63  M.  Redruth  (Tail's;  London),  a  market-town  with  10,300 
inhab.,  is  a  chief  centre  of  the  tin-mining  industry.  The  Hunt 
Memorial  Museum  contains  minerals.  About  II/4M.  to  the  S.E.  is 
Owennap  Pit^  a  grassy  amphitheatre  in  the  side  of  Cam  Marth, 
where  Wesley  used  to  preach  to  the  miners ;  open-air  meetings 
of  20-30,000  Wesleyans  still  occasionally  take  place  here.  —  Near 
(65  M.)  Cam  Brea  Station,  to  the  left,  rises  Carnlrea  Hill  (750  ft.), 
with  British  remains  and  a  curious  old  castle  or  house  perched  on 
the  top.  66  M.  Camlorne  (Abraham's;  Commercial),  a  mining 
town  with  14,700  inhabitants.  The  Dolcoath  Copper  Mine  here  is 
2250  ft.  deep.  —  From  (681/2  M.)  Givinear  Road  a  branch-line  runs 
to  (8  M.)  Helston  (Angel;  Star),  the  usual  starting-point  for  a  visit 
to  the  interesting  coast-scenery  of  the  Lizard  (see  below).  Coaches 
run  hence  to  Falmouth  (p.  145),  to  (11  M.)  the  Lizard  (see  below; 
fare  2s.,  return  Ss.  Qd.),  and  to  (13  M.)  Penzance  (p.  148;  fare  2s.). 


The  name  *Lizard  (Cornish,  Meneage')  is  given  to  the  whole 
peninsula  S.  of  a  line  drawn  from  Gweek,  at  the  head  of  Helford  River, 
to  Looe  Pool,  but  is  more  specially  applied  to  the  town  and  headland 
at  its  S.  extremity.  The  peninsula  is  an  elevated  plateau,  descend- 
ing in  cliffs  to  the  sea,  and  its  interior  is  as  unattractive  as  its 
coast  scenery  is  the  reverse.  The  rare  and  beautiful  Cornish  heath, 
Erica  Vagans,  grows  here  in  abundance.  Tourists  usually  proceed 
direct  from  Helston  to  Lizard  Town,  and  make  the  latter  the  centre 
of  their  excursions,  but  those  with  leisure  should  spend  a  night  both 
at  Mullyon  on  the  W.  and  Cadgwith  on  the  E.  —  The  road  from 
Helston  to  (11 M.)  Lizard  Town  is  uninteresting.  About  halfway  the 
prettily-situated  mansion  of  Bochym  is  passed  on  the  right.  Good 
walkers,  with  time  to  spare,  will  prefer  to  follow  the  coast  (15 M.), 
the  chief  points  of  interest  on  which  are  (2/4  M.)  Looe  Pool;  2  M. 
Looe  Bar,  formed  of  pebbles  cast  up  by  the  sea  (supposed  to  be 
caused  by  Tregeagle,  p.  144);  31/2  M.  Gunwalloi,  with  a  church 
of  the  15th  cent. ;  1/2  M.  Poljew  Cone  (Hotel  projected).  Mullyon  (Old 
Inn;  King's  ATms)"lies  about  1  M.  inland.  The  Perp.  church  has 
some  features  of  interest,  including  some  remarkable  carved  oaken 
pews.  We  return  to  the  coast  at  (3/4  M.)  Polurrian  Cove  (Polurrian 
Hotel),  or  at  (1  M. ;  21/2  M.  direct  from  Gunwalloe)  *Mullyon  Cove 


to  Penzance.  THE  LIZARD.  18.  Route.     147 

and  Cave;  the  cave,  which  is  entered  by  a  beautiful  natural  archway, 
may  be  penetrated  at  low  tide  for  200  ft.  (fine  view  from  within). 
It  was  once  a  great  resort  of  smugglers.  Continuing  to  follow  the 
cliff-walk  (coast-guard  route  marked  by  white  paint)  ,  we  pass 
the  bold  headlands  of  Pradanack  Head  and  Vellan  Head  and  reach 
(5  M.)  *Kynance  Cove  (small  lodging-houses ;  refreshments),  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  points  on  the  Cornish  coast.  The  serpentine 
cliffs  here  are  beautifully  veined  and  roloured,  and  numerous  pic- 
turesque rocks  are  scattered  about  the  little  bay,  with  its  floor  of 
silvery  sand.  Various  more  or  less  appropriate  names  have  been 
given  to  the  different  features  of  the  Cove,  such  as  Steeple  Rock 
and  Gull  Rock.  On  Asparagus  Island ,  the  semi-detached  pro- 
montory on  the  W.  side  of  the  Cove ,  is  the  BeviVs  Bellows ,  a 
narrow  interstice  formed  by  one  rock  overlying  another,  through 
which  the  water  is  propelled  in  clouds  of  spray  (seen  to  advant- 
age at  low  tide  only).  Adjacent  is  the  Letter  Box,  a  curious  fissure 
in  the  rock.  The  cave  in  Asparagus  Island  is  known  as  the  Devil's 
Throat;  those  on  the  mainland  are  called  the  Kitchen  and  Par- 
lour. Geologists  will  notice  that  the  action  of  the  sea  causes  the 
granite  to  cleave  in  cubes,  while  the  serpentine  assumes  the  most 
varied  forms.  From  Kynance  Cove  we  may  either  proceed  direct  to 
(l'/4M.)  Lizard  Town,  on  theE.  side  of  the  promontory,  or  continue 
our  walk  round  the  coast  to  the  (2^  2  -^^O  Lighthouses  (open  to 
visitors,  except  onMon.  and  after  the  lamps  are  lit;  fine  view),  on 
Lizard  Head,  the  most  southerly  point  in  England  (49°  57'  30"  N. 
lat.).  On  the  way  we  pass  Pistol  Meadow,  so  called  from  the  weapons 
cast  up  by  the  sea  after  the  wreck  of  a  man-of-war  at  the  beginning 
of  last  century,  and  the  little  harbour  of  Polpeor.  Farther  on  are 
the  columnar  Bumble  Rock  and  the  Lions  Den ,  formed  by  the 
falling  in  of  the  roof  of  a  cavern  in  the  cliffs.  The  Lighthouses 
are  about  1/2  M.  from  Lizard  Town. 

Lizard  Town  (^Hill's  Lizard  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  2s.  Qd.-  Eddy's; 
Housel  Bay  Hotel;  Mrs.  Rowes  Boarding  House,  and  several  others, 
on  the  promontory,  with  sea-view),  a  small  village,  is  frequented 
as  summer-quarters.  The  bathing-place  is  at  Housel  Cove,  to  the 
E.  of  the  lighthouses.  The  church  of  the  Lizard,  the  southernmost 
church  in  England,  is  at  Landewednack,  a  little  to  the  E.  Serpen- 
tine is  freely  used  here  as  building  material.  The  Raven  Hugo 
(or  Ogo"),  Dolor  Hugo,  and  other  caverns  on  the  E.  coast  are  best 
explored  by  boat.  —  Cadgwith  (*Star),  2^  o  -^I-  to  the  E.  of  Lizard 
Town,  is  chiefly  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  Devil's  Frying  Pan,  a 
singular  natural  amphitheatre  somewhat  resembling  the  Lion's  Den. 
The  coast  between  Cadgwith  and  Helford  River  is  also  very  fine, 
though  not  so  much  frequented  by  tourists  (comp.  p.  146). 

Those  who  have  come  to  Lizard  Town  by  the  E.  coast,  and  have  not 
time  to  follow  the  whole  of  the  W.  coast  of  the  peninsula,  are  recom- 
mended to  visit  the  Lighthouses  and  go  on  thence  to  Kynance  Cove,  Mull- 
yon  Cove,  and    Mullyon ,   in   time   to    catch  the  afternoon  coach  from  Li- 

10* 


148     Route  18.  ST.  lYES.  From  Plymouth 

zard  Town  to  Helston ,  which  passes  the  cross-roads  IV2  to  the  E.  (in- 
land) of  Mullyon.  This  will  be  in  all  a  walk  of  91/2  M.  The  coast-guard 
path  all  round  the  coast  is  clearly  marked  by  whitewash  on  stones  and 
rocks,  at  intervals  of  50  yds.  or  less. 

The  Coach  Route  from  Helston  to  (13  M.)  Penzance  (see  below; 
fare  2s.)  calls  for  little  remark,  except  that  a  good  view  of  St.  Mi- 
chael's Mt.  (see  below)  is  enjoyed  towards  the  end.  Walkers,  how- 
ever, will  find  the  coast-route  (20 M.)  interesting;  no  inn  between 
(372  M-)  Porthleoen  and  (17  M.)  Marazion  (see  below). 


Continuation  of  the  Railway.  71  M.  Eayle  (White  Hart),  with 
engine-works.  73  M.  St.  Erth  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (4  M.) 
St.  /ves,  via  Lelant  and  C arb is  Bay  [UoteV),  the  latter  agolflng-resort. 

St.  Ives  {"Tregenna  Castle,  charmingly  situated  above  the  station,  with 
view,  R.  <t  A.  4s.  6d.,  D.is.Gd.:,  Fort/iminsier,  near  the  station;  Western, 
Queen  s,  in  the  town),  a  quaint  little  fishing-town  (6094  inhab.)  situated 
on  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  bay  in  Cornwall ,  with  a  splendid  sandy 
beach.  It  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  St.  la,  an  Irish  princess  who  was 
martyred  here  about  A.  D.  450.  The  best  views  are  obtained  from  the 
Tregenna  Hotel  and  the  Battery  Rocks.  The  mean  temperature  of  St. 
Ives  in  winter  is  said  to  be  only  4°  Fahr.  less  than  that  of  Rome,  and 
it  has  become  a  favourite  bathing  and  winter  resort.  The  pilchard  fishery 
is  prosecuted  here  with  great  success.  The  church  is  an  interesting  Perp. 
building,  with  carved  bench-ends.  A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  very 
ancient  church  (?  5th  cent.)  of  (41/2  M.)  Gwithian,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
bay,  formerly  buried  in  the  sand.  Good  walkers  may  follow  the  coast 
from  St.  Ives  to  (15  M.)  St.  Just  (p.  151)  and  (7M.)  the  Zand's  End  (p.  150), 
or  cross  the  country  to  (8  M.)  Penzance  (see  below).  Or  they  may  follow 
Ihe  coast  X.  to  Newqtiay  (cump.  p.  154). 

The  churchyard  of  St.  Hilary,  near  St.  Erth,  contains  tombstones  from 
the  time  of  Constantine  the  Great  down  to  the  present  day. 

From  St.  Erth  the  train  runs  nearly  due  S.  to  (77  M.)  Marazion 
or  Market  Jew  (Godolphin;  St.  Michael's),  a  prosaic  little  town,  by 
no  means  justifying  the  ascription  of  its  name  ('bitter  Zion')  to  an 
early  colony  of  Jews,  who  traded  with  the  Phoenician  miners  (see 
Max  Mailer's  'Are  there  Jews  in  Cornwall'  ;  comp.  p.  143).  A  large 
new  Hotel  (Mount's  Bay  Garden  Hotel)  is  projected. 

Marazion  is  the  station  for  *St.  Michael's  Mount,  the  Icfis  of  the  an- 
cients, a  curious  rocky  islet,  rising  precipitously  to  a  height  of  230ft., 
and  connected  with  the  shore  by  a  natural  causeway,  1/2  M.  long,  uncovered 
for  about  3  hrs.  at  low  water.  It  may  be  described  as  a  miniature  copy 
of  Mont  St.  Michel  in  Normandy.  Its  earliest  occupant,  according  to  the 
legend,  was  the  Giant  Cormoran,  slain  by  Jack  the  Giant-killer.  The  priory 
at  the  top  was  dedicated  to  St.  3Iichael,  who  is  said  to  have  appeared  to 
some  hermits  here  very  early  in  the  Christian  era,  and  St.Keyne  (A.  D.  490) 
was  the  first  of  a  long  series  of  pilgrims.  The  c;  stle,  which  has  long  been 
the  seat  of  the  St.  Aubyn  family  (Lord  St.  Levan).  contains  an  interesting 
hall  and  chapel.  Fine  *View  from  the  square  church-tower.  There  is  a 
small  fishing-village  (St.  Aubyn  Arms)  at  the  foot  of  the  Mount. 

80  M.  Penzance.  —  Hotels.  Qdeen's,  on  the  Esplanade,  R.  &  A. 
from  4s.  6d.,  D.  5s. ;  "''Union,  Chapel  St.,  comfortable,  R.  &  A.  4s. ;  Western, 
Alverton  St.,  E.,  A.,  &  B.  6s. ;  Mount's  Bat,  private  hotel,  next  door  to  the 
Queen's;  Railway,  Star,  unpretending:  Criterion,  Perkow's,  temperance 
hotels,  both  in  Union  St.  —  Cab  from  the  station  to  the  hotels  or  pier, 
1-2  pers.  Is.,  8-4  pers.  Is.  6d. 

Penzance,  i.  e.  'Holy  Headland\  is  a  seaport  with  13,000  inhab., 


to  Penzance.  PENZANCE.  18.  Route.    149 

beautifully  situated  on  the  N.W.  shore  of  Mount's  Bay.  It  is  one  of 
the  headquarters  of  the  pilchard  and  mackerel  fisheries,  and  also 
trades  in  copper,  tin,  china-clay,  and  granite.  Potatoes,  brocoli, 
fruit,  etc.  are  extensively  cultivated  in  the  environs  and  sent  in 
large  quantities  to  London.  The  climate  is  mild,  and  frost  and  snow 
are  rare  phenomena;  but  the  annual  rainfall  (43  inches)  is  much 
above  the  average,  ^iarket  Jew  Street  leads  from  the  station  to  the 
Market  House,  in  front  of  which  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Humphry  Davy 
(1778-1829),  the  natural  philosopher  and  chemist,  who  was  born 
at  Penzance.  In  Alverton  St.,  to  the  N.W. ,  are  the  handsome  Pwi^ic 
Buildings,  containing  a  geological  museum.  The  Library,  which 
contains  rare  Cornish  books  and  a  valuable  collection  of  prints  and 
autographs,  shares  a  building  with  the  School  of  Art,  in  Morrab  St., 
which  leads  past  the  Morrab  Pleasure  Grounds.  The  Esplanade,  to 
the  S.,  is  the  pleasantest  part  of  the  town,  and  the  Pier  (near  the 
station)  affords  good  promenades  and  views.  Another  fine  point  of 
view  is  Lescudjack  Castle ,  a  British  earthwork  on  a  hill  near  the 
railway-station.  —  About  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  Penzance  is  Newlyn, 
a  fishing-village  and  artists'  resort,  which  has  given  name  to  a 
modern  'open  air'  school  of  painting.  On  the  way  thither  we  pass 
the  Xeirlyn  Art  Gallery  and  Opie  Memorial,  opened  in  1895.  The 
Church  of  St.  Peter  at  Newlyn  contains  a  reredos  after  Leonardo 
da  Vinci  and  a  memorial  window  to  Lord  Iddesleigh  (d.  1886). 

Among  the  pleasant  short  walks  in  the  neijihbourhood  is  that  to 
(i'/z  31.)  Bleu  Bridge^  a  small  slab-bridj^e  with  an  ancient  inscribed  stone. 
To  reach  it  we  turn  to  the  left  at  the  Three  Tuns  Hotel,  to  the  E.  of  the 
railway-station,  and  then  immediately  to  the  right.  The  third  turning 
to  the  right  O/4  hr.  from  the  hotel;  the  fourth  turning  if  we  count  a 
narrow  footpath)  descends  to  the  bridge.  —  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  on 
foot  to  (3  M.)  Marazion  and  St.  Michael  s  Mt.  (p.  148),  but  the  latter  may 
also  be  reached  in  summer  by  a  small  steamer,  waggonette,  or  boat 
(fare  each  way  6d.).  —  Oulval  Church,  1  M.  to  the  K.E.,  has  a  curious 
inscribed  'menhir'. 

Excursions  from  Penzance. 

Penzance  may  be  made  the  traveller's  headquarters  for  several 
days,  as  the  district  of  the  'Land's  End'  affords  numerous  at- 
tractive excursions ,  in  which  the  lover  of  natural  beauty  and  the 
antiquarian  will  each  find  his  reward.  Many  of  the  most  important 
copper  and  tin  mines  in  Cornwall  are  also  within  easy  reach  ,  and 
the  traveller  should  not  neglect  an  opportunity  to  explore  one  of 
these.    Comp.,  however,  p.  143. 

1.  To  Lamorna  and  the  Logan  Rock  by  the  Coast,  11  M. 
This  excursion  may  be  recommended  to  good  walkers,  though  the 
cliff-scenery  is  not  so  fine  as  that  nearer  the  Land's  End.  We  leave 
the  town  by  the  Esplanade  and  pass  (1  M.)  Newlyn  (see  above ).  At 
(3  M.)  Mousehole  is  a  large  cavern,  and  a  little  inland,  in  Paul 
Church,  is  the  tomb  of  Dolly  Pentreath  (d.  1777),  usually  said  to 
be  the  last  person  who  spoke  Cornish  (comp.  p.  143).     Lamorna 


150    Route  18.  LAND'S  END.  Excursions 

Cove,  b^jo  M.  from  Penzance,  has  been  somewhat  spoiled  in  ap- 
pearance by  the  granite  quarries.  About  I1/2  M.  inland,  near  Boleit, 
are  the  remains  of  a  stone  rircle  known  as  the  Pipers  ^'  Merry 
Maidens,  said  to  have  been  turned  into  stone  for  dancing  on  Sunday. 
Lamorna  is  5^2  M.  from  the  Logan  Rock  (see  below)  by  the  coast. 

2.  To  St.  Bubyan  and  the  Logan  Rock,  9  M.  (carr.  about  10s.). 
The  road  passes  (8/4  M.)  Alverton  and  diverges  (IV4  ^^O  to  the  left 
from  the  road  to  St.  Just  (p.  151).  It  then  passes  through  the 
beautiful  avenue  of  Trereife  (pronounced  'treeve')  and  crosses 
(2  M.)  Buryas  Bridge.  On  the  left  is  Tresvennick  Pillar,  a  British 
monument,  popularly  known  as  the  'Blind  Fiddler'.  The  road  to 
Sancreed  (and  St.  Just)  diverges  to  the  right  at  {1^/iM.)  Drift, 
and  after  3/4  M.  more  our  road  quits  the  direct  route  to  Penzance 
and  leads  to  the  left,  b^/2  M.  St.  Buryan  (Ship),  a  village  with  an 
interesting  church  of  the  loth  cent.,  the  tower  of  which  is  con- 
spicuous far  and  wide.  The  interior  contains  a  fine  carved  screen 
and  the  churchyard  an  interesting  old  cross.  The  next  Tillage  is 
(8V2  M.)  Trereen  (Logan  Inn),  where  tourists  quit  their  vehicles  to 
visit  (3/4  M.)  the  *Trereen  Dinas,  a  bold  and  fantastic  rocky  head- 
land, with  the  Logan  Rock.  (A  guide,  useful  when  time  is  limited, 
may  be  obtained  here ;  fee  Is. ;  more  for  a  party.) 

The  Logan  Rock  is  a  mass  of  granite  weigMng  70  tons,  but  so  poised 
that  it  can  be  rocked  ('logged'),  though  with  some  difficulty  since  Lieut. 
Goldsmith,  a  nephew  of  the  poet,  upset  it  in  1824  with  the  aid  of  a  boafs 
crew.  The  task  of  replacing  it  cost  the  foolish  young  officer  2000^.  A  little 
climbing  is  necessary  to  reach  the  rocking  stone,  and  those  whose  heads 
are  not  perfectly  steady  may  leave  the  guide  to  show  how  it  moves.  There 
is  another  rocking- stone  on  the  promontory,  called  the  ^ Logan  Lady''. 

The  *Cliff  Scenery  between  the  Logan  Rock  and  (6  M.)  the  Lands 
End  is  unsurpassed  in  England,  and  walkers  are  recommended  to  prolong 
their  excursion  in  this  direction  and  return  to  Penzance  by  the  road  described 
below.  The  finest  points  are  the  two  bold  promontories  of  Tol  Pedn 
Penwith  ('holed  headland  of  Penwith')  and  Pardenick.  The  cliffs  are 
100-250  ft.  high. 

3.  To  THE  Land's  End,  10  M.  (omnibus  and  brakes,  see  p.  151 ; 
carr.  10s.  6cZ.,  with  a  fee  of  2s.).  The  road  diverges  to  the  right  from 
that  to  St.  Buryan  (see  above)  at  a  point  3V2  M.  from  Penzance.  To 
the  right  rises  Cam  Bran  (690  ft.),  on  the  top  of  which  "Wesley 
is  said  to  have  frequently  preached  to  huge  crowds  of  miners. 
Farther  on,  1/4  M.  to  the  left,  is  the  circle  oi  Boscawen,  which  con- 
sists of  19  stones,  a  number  constantly  recurring  in  these  circles. 
At  (6  M.)  the  village  of  Crows-an-Wra  are  a  curious  old  circular 
dwelling  (to  the  right)  and  a  stone  cross  (to  the  left).  Alongside 
our  road  runs  the  old  pack-horse  track.  The  small  enclosure  to  the 
right,  1  M.  beyond  Crows-an-Wra,  is  a  disused  Friends'  Burial 
Ground.  At  the  (9  M.)  village  of  Sennen  (interesting  church)  the 
Inn  still  has  for  its  sign  the  'First  and  Last  Hotel  in  England', 
though  there  is  now  the  Land's  End  Hotel  (R.  &  A.  from  3s.),  1  M. 
farther  on,  while  the  very  last  house  in  England  is  a  small  cottage, 
where  tea  and  other  refreshments  may  be  obtained.    The  *Land's 


from  Pemance.  ST.  JUST.  18.  Route.    151 

End,  the  ancient  Bolerium,  the  most  ■westerly  point  in  England 
(long.  5°  41'  31"  W.)  is  a  granite  promontory,  60-100  ft.  in  height. 
It  commands  a  fine  sea-view,  including  the  Scilly  Islands  (p.  15*2), 
20  M.  to  the  S.W.  The  Longship  Rocks,  72^1-  from  the  point,  are 
marked  by  a  lighthouse.  The  cliif  scenery  on  both  sides  is  varied 
and  imposing.  Among  the  numerous  detached  rocks  to  which  names 
have  been  given  are  the  Armed  Knight  to  the  S.  of  the  Land's  End 
and  the  Irish  Lady  to  the  N.,  by  the  S.  horn  of  Whitesand  Bay 
(numerous  shells).  The  view  in  this  direction  is  bounded  by  the 
bold  promontory  of  Cape  Cornwall  and  the  Brisons. 

The  last  two  routes  are  combined  by  the  great  majority  of  tourists, 
who  take  one  of  the  Brakes  which  start  daily  in  summer  from  Pen- 
7,ance  for  the  Land's  End,  going  via  the  Logan  Rock  (13  M.)  and  return- 
ing by  the  direct  route.  They  start  about  9  a.m.  and  regain  Penzance 
about  6  p.m.,  allowing  1V2-2  hrs.  at  the  Logan  Rock  and  2-21/2  hrs.  at 
the  Land's  End,  and  also  a  few  minutes  at  St.  Buryan  (p.  150).  The 
return-fare  is  3s.  Grf.  5  single  journey  2s.  A  Mail-Omnibus  also  starts  daily 
from  the  Market  House  in  Penzance  (at  9  a.m.  and  4.30  p.m.  in  summer) 
for  Sennen,  runing  via  St.  Buryan  and  Trereen.  —  Those  who  drive 
miss  the  fine  clifF-scenery  between  the  Logan  and  the  Land's  End  (see 
p.  150).  A  good  plan  is  to  drive  from  Penzance  to  the  Logan  Rock, 
send  the  carriage  on  to  Sennen  (see  p.  150),  walk  along  the  clitfs  to 
the  Land's  End,  and  drive  back  to  Penzance  direct  from  Sennen  (in  all 
8-10  hrs).  Those  who  can  should  arrange  to  spend  a  night  at  the  Land's 
End  for  the  sake  of  the  sunset  and  sunrise. 

4.  To  St.  Just,  Q^j^^l'i  omnibus  several  times  daily  in  Ihr.  (fare 
6d.).  The  road  itself  is  uninteresting,  but  it  passes  within  a  mile 
or  so  of  the  hut-village  of  Crellas,  the  hill-fort  of  Chun  Castle,  and 
a  large  Cromlech,  all  of  which  are  among  the  most  interesting  anti- 
(juities  in  Cornwall.  The  omnibus,  however,  does  not  allow  time  for  a 
visit  to  these.  —  St.  Just  in  Tenwith  ( Commercial  Inn),  a  small  mar- 
ket town,  has  an  Early  Perp.  church,  with  interesting  Irish  tracery 
and  one  of  the  oldest  Christian  tombs  in  England.  Near  itis  an  open- 
air  amphitheatre  in  which  Cornish  miracle-plays  were  represented. 

St.  Just  i.s  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  now  disused  Bottal- 
lack  Mine,  2  M.  to  the  N.W.,  which  extends  for  400  ft.  under  the  sea  (permis- 
sion must  be  obtained  beforehand;  make  enquiry  at  the  Penzance  hotels). 
Cape  Cornwall  (see  above),  IV2  M.  to  the  W.,  is  a  (me  point  of  view.  The 
clifi-walk  from  St.  Just  to  the  Land's  End  (7  M.)  is  fine,  though  scarcely 
equal  to  that  between  the  Land's  End  and  the  Logan. 

5.  To  St.  Ives.  This  excursion  may  be  made  either  by  railway 
as  already  described  (p.  148)  or  by  road.  The  direct  distance  is 
about  8  M.,  but  tourists  will  probably  prefer  a  more  circuitous 
route,  so  as  to  include  a  visit  to  some  of  the  interesting  British 
remains  in  the  district  between  Penzance  and  St.  Ives. 

Among  these  &rQ  Chysairster,  a  hut-village,  4  M.  to  the  X.  of  Penzance; 
Mulfra  Cromlech  or  Quoit,  5  M.  to  the  N.W. ;  Zennor  Cromlech,  5  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  St.  Ives,  said  to  be  the  largest  monument  of  the  kind  known ;  the 
Lanyon  Cromlech,  2V'2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Mulfra  Cromlech;  the  Nine 
Maidens,  part  of  a  stone  circle,  near  Morvah,  2  M.  beyond  Lanyon;  the 
Holed  Stone  ('Men-an-tol' ;  prob.  used  for  initiations)  and  the  Written  Stone 
('Men  scryfa'),  also  near  Lanyon;  and  the  beehive-hut  ht  Bosphrennis,  near 
Mulfra.  To  the  S.  of  the  Nine  Maidens  is  the  Ding  Dong  Mine,  said  to  have 
been  worked  long  before  the  Christian  era. 


152    Roule  18.  SCILLY  ISLES. 

6.  To  THE  SciLLT  IsLES,  40  M.,  steamcr  3  or  4  times  weekly  in  summer 
in  4  hrs.  (fares  75.,  5.«. ;  return  10s.  6(f.,  7s.  Gd.).     This  sail  aflforda  a  good 
view  of  the  Cornish  coast,  but  the  sea  is  often  rough.    About  Lalfway  we 
pass  the  Wolf  Lighthouse.     The  shadowy  land  of  Lyonnesse  — 
'A  land  of  old  upheaven  from  the  abyss 
'By  lire,  to  sink  into  the  abyss  again"  — 
stretched  from  the  Scilly  Isles  to  the  mainland,    and   now  lies  submerged 
with  all  the  140  parishes,  which  the  precise  old  chroniclers  assign  to  it. 

The  Scilly  Isles,  the  Cassiterides  of  the  ancients,  are  about  50  in 
number,  but  only  five  are  inhabited  (pop.  178'J).  One  of  the  most  profitable 
occupations  in  "the  islands  is  the  growing  of  the  narcissus  for  Covent 
Garden,  to  which  hundreds  of  thousands  of  this  beautiful  flower  are 
sent  every  spring.  The  largest  island  is  St.  Mary's,  with  a  circumference 
of  9  M.  and  a  population  of  1160.  On  this  lies  the  capital,  Hugh  Town 
(Hugh  House  Hotel;  Tregarthen's  Inn),  with  ^<ar  Castle,  a  fortress  erected 
in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth.  The  churchyard  contains  the  graves  of  those 
drowned  in  the  'Schiller'  in  1875.  The  rocky  coast-scenery  is  fine,  the 
chief  points  being  Peninis,  Old  Toicn  Bay.,  and  Gianft  Castle.  Holy  Vale 
is  picturesque.  A  good  view  of  the  group  is  obtained  from  Telegraph  Tower 
(160ft.).  Tresco  (Canteen  Inn),  the  second  of  the  group  in  size,  is  the  most 
interesting.  K'ear  the  ruins  of  Tresco  Abbey  is  the  splendid  "Mansion  of  the 
'lord  proprietor  of  the  islands  (Mr.  T.  A.  Dorrien-Smith),  picturesquely 
placed  on  a  rocky  height.  Its  sub-tropital  gardens  are  the  finest  in  the 
British  Isles  (fee  to  gardener).  There  is  also  a  large  cave  in  this  island, 
named  the  Piper's  Hole,  shown  by  the  landlord  of  the  Canteen  Inn  (fee 
for  a  party  5*.)-  Dolphin  Church  is  pretty.  The  other  inhabited  islands 
are  S!.  Martinis,  S(.  Agnes,  and  Bryher.  Samson,  the  largest  uninhabited 
island,  is  the  scene  of  Sir  Walter  Besanfs   novel  -Armorel   of  Lvonnesse'. 


Travellers  who  have  reached  Penzance  and  the  Land's  End  via 
Plymouth,  and  wish  to  return  by  the  N.  coast,  are  recommended  to 
go  by  railway  from  Penzance  to  Newquay,  and  thence  to  proceed 
via  Wadebridge  to  Camelford,  the  starting-point  for  -46  M.  of  the 
finest  coaching  in  England  (see  R.20).  Pedestrians  may  follow  the 
coast  the  whole  way;  but  if  their  time  is  limited,  they  should  reserve 
their  walking  for  the  coast  to  the  N.  of  Newquay,  especially  from 
Ilfracombe  to  Lynmouth  and  Porlock  (pp.  163-164,  168).  Those 
who  have  already  visited  the  intermediate  points  of  interest  may 
take  the  steamer  from  Hayle  (p.  148)  to  Ilfracombe. 

19.  From  Exeter  to  Wadebridge  and  Newquay. 

The  following  railways  afTord  the  most  direct  access  from  London  to 
N.  Cornwall.  Newquay  is  most  quickly  reached  via  the  G.W.R.,  Wade- 
bridge via  the  L.S.W.  On  Sundays  there  are  no  trains  beyond  Bodmin 
Koad  (see  below)  and  Okehampton  (p.  153)  on  the  respective  lines;  but  on 
that  day  a  coach  plies  between  Bodmin  Road  and  Wadebridge. 

a.  Great  Western  Railway. 

109  31.  Railway  in  4-5V4  hrs.  (fares  18s.,  lis.  4(Z.,  9s.  y^d.).  To  Wade- 
bridge, 90  M.,  in  3V2  hrs.  (fares  13s.,  8«.  2c7.,  6s.  Gd.).  Through-carriages  are 
run  from  London  (Paddington)  to  Kewquay  (303  M.,  in  8^4-9  hrs.;  fares  46«. 
6d.,  29s.,  23s.  3d.). 

Exeter  (St.  David's  Station),  see  p.  103.  Thence  to  (53  M.) 
Plymouth^  see  pp.  129-134;  and  from  Plymouth  to  (80  M.)  Bodmin 
Road^  see  pp.  143,  144. 


LAUNCESTON.  19.  Route.    153 

From  Bodmin  Road  to  Wadebridge,  II74M.,  railway  in  V2  hr.  (fares 
Is.  iOd  ,  ls.2(f.,  iid.).  —  372  M.  Bodmin  (Royal;  Town  Arms),  the  county-town 
of  Cornwall,  is  an  ancient  little  place  (5151  inhab.),  with  a  large  church 
of  the  12-15th  cent,  (re.stored),  accounted  the  finest  specimen  of  a  Cornish 
medieeval  church.  —  IIV4  M.   Wadebridge,  see  p.  164, 

83  M.  Lostwithiel  (^.  144).  At  (88  M.)  Par  (p.  144)  our  line 
diverges  to  the  N.  from  the  main  line  to  Penzance.  —  Beyond 
(88V2M.)  St.  Blazey,  the  junction  for  Fowey  (p.  144),  we  ascend 
the  well-wooded  *LuTulion  Valley,  which  is  most  conveniently 
visited  from  ( 921/2  M.)  Bridges^  reached  immediately  after  we  pass 
beneath  the  Treffry  Viaduct.  —  94  M.  Bugle.  961/2  M.  Victoria  is 
the  station  for  the  Roches  Rocks.  —  To  the  left  rises  Hensbarrow 
(1035  ft.).  102  M.  St.  Columb  Road  lies  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  St.  Columh 
Major  (p.  154).  —  109  M.  Newquay  (p.  154). 

b.  South  Western  Railway. 

100  M.  Railway  to  (83  M.)  Wadebridge  in  3-3V2  hrs.  (fares  13s..  8«.  2d,, 
6.'.  6rf.) ;  thence  Coach  in  connection  with  the  express  trains  to  (17  M.)  New- 
quay (2^4  hrs.;  fare  about  3s.).  Through-carriages  are  run  from  London 
(Waterloo  Station)  to  Wadebridge  (254  M.  in  7-9V4  hrs.;  fares  41s.  Sd., 
26s  ,  20s.  iOd). 

Exeter  (Queen  St,  Station),  see  p.  103,  Thence  to  (26  M.)  Oke- 
hampton,  see  p.  135,  —  At  Okehampton  the  Wadebridge  line 
diverges  to  the  N.  from  the  main  line  to  Plymouth,  —  341/2  M, 
Ashbury  (8'20  ft.;   Eastacombe  Hotel).    381/4  M.  Halwill  Junction. 

From  Halwill  .Junction  to  Bode,  30  M.  Railway  to  (8  M.)  Hohworthy 
(fares  ls.3(/,,  lOc/..  l^/id.),  and  thence  by  coach  (2.';.  Gd.)  twice  daily  to  Bvde 
(p.  157),  via  Stratton  (p.  158).  Holsworthy  (Stanhope;  White  Hart)  has  a 
church  with  a  lofty  Perp.  tower.  The  Holsworthy  d-  Bade  Canal,  constructed 
in  1819-26,  is  interesting  from  its  inclined  planes,  ingenious  substitutes 
for  the  ordinary  locks.  —  Railway  to  Bade  under  construction. 

431  2  M.  Ashwater;  47  M.  Tower  Hill.  —  52  M.  Launceston 
(King's  Arms;  White  Hart;  Railway),  an  ancient  town  with  4345 in- 
hab., situated  on  tlie  slope  of  a  steep  hill,  from  which  it  derived 
its  original  name  of  Dunheved  ('hill  top'),  Tlie  hill  is  crowned  with 
the  circular  keep  and  parts  of  the  walls  (12  ft,  thick)  of  a  Castle, 
at  one  time  supposed  to  be  of  British  origin,  but  now  recognised  as 
a  Norman  work  (view).  In  a  small  dungeon,  near  the  E,  gate,  George 
Fox,  the  Quaker,  was  imprisoned  in  1656.  The  church  of  St.  Mary 
Magdalen,  lately  restored,  is  a  handsome  granite  edifice  in  the  Perp. 
style,  with  curious  carvings  on  the  outside  of  the  walls.  At  the 
White  Hart  Hotel  is  a  fine  Norman  gateway,  the  sole  relic  of  an  old 
Augustine  priory ;  and  near  the  King's  Arms  is  another  gateway  of 
later  date,  which  originally  belonged  to  the  town-walls. 

The  ascent  of  Brown  Willy  (p.  154)  is  sometimes  made  from  Laun- 
ceston (4  hrs.).  We  follow  the  road  to  Camelford  for  3  M.,  then  diverge 
to  the  left  and  pass  (4  M.)  Five  Lanes  (Inn).  About  2  M.  farther  on  we 
leave  the  road  and  cross  the  moors  to  the  W.  (right),  reaching  the  top 
in  Ihr,  more.  The  descent  may  be  made  to  Camelford  or  Bodmin  (p,  152). 

Beyond  Launceston  the  railway  traverses  an  uninteresting  dis- 
trict,   561/2  M,  Egloskerry ;  60  M.  Tresmeer.    65  M,  Otterham  is  the 


154    Route  19.  OAMELFORD. 

nearest  station  for  Crackinyton  Haven  (lodgings),  6  M.  to  the  N. 
Farther  on  the  sea  is  seen,  to  the  right,  and  Row  Tor  (1296  ft.),  to 
the  left. 

69^2  M-  Camelford  (Queen's  Arms;  Darlington  Arms),  which 
claims  to  he  the  Camelot  of  Arthurian  legend  (comp.  p.  102),  is  the 
nearest  starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  Brown  Willy  (1370  ft.; 
2-3  hrs.),  the  highest  summit  in  Cornwall,  commanding  an  exten- 
sive but  monotonous  view.  Along  with  its  N.  neighbour,  Roxu  Tor 
(1296  ft.),  it  rises  about  5  M.  to  the  S.E.  The  name  is  a  corruption 
of  Bryn  Vhella,  i.e.  highest  hill. 

Camelford  is  the  nearest  railway-station  to  Tintagel  and  Boscastle  (see 
R.  20),  to  which  an  omnibus  plies  in  about  1  hr.  in  connection  with  the 
trains.  In  summer  a  coach  runs  direct  daily  from  Camelford  via  Boscastle 
to  (27  M.)  Bude  (p.  157).  None  of  these  routes  repay  the  pedestrian. 

72  M.  Delabole  is  the  station  for  the  extensive  Delahole  Slate 
Quarries^  which  have  been  worked  since  the  days  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth and  produce  150,000  tons  of  slate  per  annum.  751/2  M-  Port 
Isaac  Road,  31/2  ^I-  from  Port  Isaac  (Inns).  78  M.  St.  Kew  Highway. 
Beyond  several  cuttings  the  train  crosses  the  Camel. 

83  M.  Wadebridge  (Molesworth  Arms ;  Commercial)  is  a  pleas- 
antly situated  little  town,  at  the  head  of  the  Camel  estuary,  here 
crossed  by  a  bridge  that  was  in  Carew's  time  'the  longest,  strongest, 
and  fayrest  that  the  Shire  could  muster'. 

A  coach  runs  3-4  times  daily  along  the  pretty  estuary  of  the  Camel  to 
(8  M.)  Padstow  (Commercial  Inn),  a  place  of  no  interest  in  itself  but  a 
good  starting-point  for  a  boating-excursion  along  the  fine  rocky  coast. 

From  Wadebridge  the  train  goes  on  to  (8  BI.)  Bodmin  (p.  152),  de- 
scending the  valley  of  the  Camel.  The  S.W.  station  at  Bodmin  is  about 
1  M.  from  the  G.W.  station. 

The  Coach  from  Wadebridge  to  (17  M.)  Newquay  follows  a  some- 
what uninteresting  and  bleak  route.  9  M.  St.  Columh  Major  (Red 
Lion),  with  an  interesting  church.  St.  Columb  Road  Station  (p.  153) 
lies  3  M.  to  the  S.  (omn.).  A  little  to  the  S.E.  of  St.  Columb  Major 
is  Castle  Dinas,  the  legendary  site  of  a  hunting-seat  of  King  Arthur 
and  residence  of  the  old  Cornish  kings.  12  M.  St.  Columb  Minor 
has  a  lofty  church-tower. 

17  M,  Newquay  (Atlantic;  Great  Western^  R.  &  A.  6s.]  Red  Lion, 
well  spoken  of;  Prout's  Private  Hotel;  Commercial,  unpretending; 
Beachcroft  Boarding  Establishment,  lO-los.  per  day)  is  a  rising  little 
watering-place.  Its  bathing-beach,  or  rather  its  beaches,  consists  of 
several  miles  of  sandy  coves,  enclosed  by  tall  cliffs  and  separated  at 
highwater  by  rocky  bluffs. 

The  rockbound  coast  both  to  the  N.  and  the  S.  is  fine,  particularly  at 
' Bedruthan  Steps,  6V2  M.  to  the  N.  From  Bedruthan  we  may  go  on  to 
(7  M.)  Padstow  (see  above),  and  thence  either  take  the  coach  to  Wadebridge  or 
cross  (ferry)  to  Rock  (Inn),  15  M.  from  Tintagel  (p.  155).  The  cliff-walk 
southwards  to  (23  M.)  Gwithian  (p.  148)  on  St.  Ives  Bay  (p.  148)  is  also  very 
fine  and  easy;  inns  at  (7  M.)  Perran  Forth,  (4  BI.)  St.  Agnes,  and  (6  M.) 
Portveath. 

From  Newquay  to  Par  (Penzance)  and  Fowey,  see  p.  144. 


155 


20.  From  Camelford  to  Bideford. 


46  M.  Coaching  Route  (fare  175.  6rf.,  return  Sis. J.  The  stagea  are: 
1.  From  Camelford  to  Tintogel,  Boscastle,  and  (20  M.)  Bude  (ds.  6d.)  thrice  a 
week,  starting  about  2  p.m.,  and  connecting  at  Bude  with  the  coach  to 
Bideford.  Tintagel  and  Bo.sca.^tle  may  al.so  be  reached  from  Camelford  by 
omnibus,  several  times  daily  (fare  Is.  i'ld.).  —  2.  From  Bude  to  (16  M.)  Clovelly 
Cross  (65.)  and  (26  M.)  Bideford  (85.),  thrice  weekly  (Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.). 

Travellers  by  this  fine  route  may  make  their  first  halt  at  Tintagel, 
after  which  they  should  also  visit  at  least  Boscastlc  and  Clovelly.  Tin- 
tagel and  Boscastle  are  only  a  few  miles  apart ,  and  those  who  spend  a 
night  at  either  may  easily  visit  the  other  on  foot.  Bude  is  not  so  inter- 
esting, but  the  present  coaching -arrangements  almost  necessitate  the 
spending  of  a  night  there.  From  Clovelly  there  is  daily  communication 
with  Bideford,  while  steamers  ply  frequently  to  Ilfracombe. 

Camelford^  see  p.  154.  About,  2  M.  from  Camelford  the  road 
passes  the  Delabole  Slate  Quarries  (p.  154).  6  M.  Tintagel,  or  more 
correctly  Trevena  (*Wharncliffe  Arms)^  a  small  village  V2  ^^^ 
from  the  sea,  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  the  district  consecrated  to 
Arthurian  legend.  The  coach  stops  here  to  allow  of  a  hurried 
visit  to  the  castle,  but  the  traveller  should  spend  at  least  one  day 
here  or  at  Boscastle.  Tintagel  Church,  to  the  W.  of  the  village,  is 
partly  of  Saxon  origin.  To  reach  the  sea  we  descend  a  small 
valley,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  cottage  (refreshments),  where 
we  obtain  the  key  for  the  enclosure  on  the  'Island'.  The  remains 
of  the  Castle,  'Dundagil  by  the  Cornish  Sea',  are  here  above  us  to 
the  left,  on  the  mainland  portion  of  Tintagel  Head,  and  are  most 
easily  reached  by  a  grassy  track  ascending  from  the  valley  at  a 
point  a  little  above  the  cottage.  The  keep,  the  oldest  part  of  the 
existing  ruins,  is  probably  of  Norman  construction,  though  it  is 
not  unlikely  that  a  Saxon,  if  not  also  a  British,  stronghold  ont^e 
occupied  the  same  site.  Between  this  part  of  the  promontory  and 
the  so-called  'Island'  is  a  deep  chasm,  which  is  supposed  to  bo 
of  comparatively  recent  origin  ,  or  is  at  least  much  wider  than  of 
old.  On  the  other  side  we  see  the  rough  path  ascending  to  the  top 
of  the  Island,  to  reach  which  we  must  again  descend  to  the  little 
cove  in  which  the  cottage  stands ,  with  apparatus  used  in  loading 
boats  with  slates.  The  path  leads  to  the  locked  gate,  for  which  we  ob- 
tained the  key  (not  required  for  the  castle  itself).  The  whole  Island 
seems  to  have  been  included  in  the  fortified  area,  and  there  are 
some  ruins  near  this  doorway.  On  the  top  of  the  plateau  are  the 
remains  of  the  foundation-walls  of  a  small  chapel,  an  old  well,  and 
a  so-called  hermit's  cave.  The  *View  of  the  grand  rocky  coast  from 
the  extreme  point  of  the  headland  is  very  imposing,  extending 
from  Trevose  Head  on  the  S.  to  Hartland  Point  on  the  N.  There  is 
a  curious  'pillar  rock'  on  the  S.  side  of  the  point.  The  best  view  of 
the  castle  is  obtained  from  Barras  Head,  to  the  N.  of  King  Arthur's 
Cove,  which  has  been  acquired  for  the  public  by  the  National  Trust 
for  Places  of  Historic  Interest  or  Natural  Beauty. 

Familiar  as  the  Arthurian  Legend  is,  the  following  brief  abstract  of 
it,  taken  from  'An  Unsentimental  Journey  through  Comwair,  by  Mrs.  Craik, 


156    Route  20.  TINTAGEL.  From  Camelford 

may  not  be  unwelcome.  'Uther  Pendragon  ,  King  of  Britain,  falling  in 
love  with  Ygrayne,  wife  of  the  duke  of  Cornwall,  besieged  them  in 
their  twin  castles  of  Tintagel  and  Terrabil ,  slew  the  husband,  and  the 
same  day  married  the  wife.  Unto  whom  a  boy  was  born,  and  by  ad- 
vice of  the  enchanter  Merlin,  carried  away  from  the  sea-shore  beneath 
Tintagel,  and  confided  to  a  good  knight,  Sir  Ector,  to  be  brought  up  as 
his  own  son,  and  christened  Arthur.  On  the  death  of  the  king.  Merlin 
produced  the  youth,  who  was  recognized  by  his  mother  Ygrayne,  and 
proclaimed  king  in  the  stead  of  T'ther  Pendragon.  He  instituted  the 
Order  of  Knights  of  the  Round  Table,  who  were  to  go  everywhere,  pun- 
ishing vice  and  rescuing  oppressed  virtue,  for  the  love  of  God  and  of 
some  noble  lady.  He  married  Guinivere,  daughter  of  King  Leodegrance, 
who  forsook  him  for  the  love  of  Sir  Launcelot  ,  his  bravest  knight  and 
dearest  friend.  One  by  one,  his  best  knights  fell  away  into  sin,  and  his 
nephew  Mordred  raised  a  rebellion,  fought  with  him,  and  conquered  him 
at  Camelford.  Seeing  his  end  was  near,  Arthur  bade  his  last  faithful 
knight,  Sir  Bedevere,  carry  him  to  the  shore  of  a  mere  (supposed  to  be 
Dozmare  Pool)  and  throw  in  there  his  sword  Excalibur,  v.hen  appeared 
a  boat  with  three  queens,  who  lifted  him  in,  mourning  over  him.  He 
sailed  away  with  them  to  be  healed  of  his  grievous  wound.  Some  say 
that  he  was  afterwards  buried  in  a  chapel  near,  others  declare  that  he 
still  lives  in  fairy  land,  and  will  reappear  in  latter  days,  to  reinstate  the 
Order  of  Knights  of  the  Round  Table,  and  rule  his  beloved  England,  per- 
fect as  he  once  tried  to  make  it,  but  in  vain.'  —  The  reader  will  scarcely 
need  to  be  referred  to  Sir  Thomas  Malory's  'Morte  Darthur'  and  Tenny- 
son's 'Idylls  of  the  King'. 

From  Tintagel  to  Boscastle  by  the  *Cliffs,  4V2-5  M.  (2-3  hrs.),  a 
charming  walk.  There  is  a  kind  of  path  for  most  of  the  way,  but 
there  is  a  good  deal  of  'up  and  down'  on  the  walk,  and  the  crossing  of 
the  'Rocky  Valley'  (see  below)  is  rather  rough.  Beyond  Barras  Nose,  the 
headland  io  the  N.  of  Tintagel  Head,  we  reach  Bossiney  Cove.  The  de- 
tached rocks  off  Willapark  Point  are  called  the  Sisters  and  Lye  Rock,  and 
farther  on  are  Long  Island  and  Short  Island.  Beyond  Bossiney  Cove 
we  reach  the  so-called  Rocky  Valley,  the  picturesque  and  somewhat  chaotic 
channel  of  a  little  stream,  which  here  enters  the  sea.  Our  path  deserts 
us  here  and  we  are  left  to  choose  our  own  line  in  crossing  the  valley; 
but  the  scenery  is  pretty  enough  to  make  a  slight  detour  acceptable  and 
may  even  tempt  to  an  exploration  of  the  valley  up  to  the  Mill,  about 
1/2  "M.  inland.  Beyond  the  next  promontory  we  skirt  two  small  bays, 
cross  another  depression,  and  pass  a  slate -quarry.  To  the  left  lies  the 
island  of  Grotcar.  We  then  reach  the  deep  and  gloomy  Blackpit,  the  bottom 
of  which  may  be  reached  by  an  easy  path.  The  promontory  beyond  this, 
also  named  Willapark,  and  crowned  "by  a  tower,  forms  the  S.  buttress  of 
Boscastle  Harbour.     To  reach  the  village  we  turn  to  the  right. 

Another  favourite  coast  walk  from  Tintagel  is  to  Trebarwith  Sands, 
IV2  M.  to  the  S.    Xot  far  off  is  a  fine  cave,  accessible  by  boat  only. 

The  road  from  Tintagel  to  Boscastle  (about  3  M.)  affords  only 
occasional  views  of  the  sea.  After  about  1  M.,  beyond  Bossiney,  we 
have  a  good  view  to  the  left  of  the  *Rocky  Valley,  stretching  down 
to  the  shore.  About  1/4  M.  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  a  board  indi- 
cating the  way  to  St.  Nightons  Kieve,  a  small  waterfall  on  the  stream 
which  lower  down  flows  through  the  Rocky  Valley. 

After  obtaining  the  key  we  follow  the  lane  which  here  diverges  to 
the  right,  and  after  passing  four  gates  on  the  right,  we  come  to  (12  min.) 
a  grassy  lane  on  the  same  side.  On  reaching  the  fields  we  bend  to  the 
left,  still  following  the  track,  cross  a  stile,  and  pass  two  white  gates, 
belovf  the  second  of  which  is  the  padlocked  entrance  to  the  *Fall, 
prettily  embowered  in  wood.  In  returning  we  vary  the  route  by  cross- 
ing a  stile  between  the  padlocked  gate  and  the  second  white  door  men- 
tioned above  and  following  the  path  that  descends  along  the  stream. 


toBideford.  BOSCASTLE.  W.  Route.    157 

To  the  left,  i/o  M.  farther  on,  is  the  hamlet  of  Trevalga^  beyond 
which  we  next  reach  (8/4  M.)  Forrabury.  Another  1/2  ^^'  brings  us 
to  Boscastle  (9  M.  from  Camelford). 

Boscastle,  i.e.'Bottreaux  Castle'  (WelUnyton,  R.  «&  A.  4s.  6rf., 
table-d'hote  B.  2s.  6d.,  table-d'hote  D.  3s.  6c/.)  is  a  quaint  little  place, 
which  improves  on  acquaintance.  The  entrance  to  the  curiously 
tortuous  little  harbour  is  singularly  picturesque,  and  should  be 
viewed  from  the  promontories  on  both  sides.  To  the  right  we 
obtain  a  distant  view  of  Lundy  (p.  159),  made  conspicuous  at  night 
by  its  lighthouse.  The  coach  stops  here  long  enough  for  a  visit  to 
the  harbour. 

To  Tintagel  and  St.  NightorCs  Kieve,  see  p.  156.  —  About  I'/z  M.  to  the 
E.,  reached  via  Forrabury  (see  above),  is  Minster,  with  an  interesting  little 
church  (key  at  Boscastle),  formerly  the  chancel  of  an  'alien'  priory  of 
Angevin  monks.  —  To  reach  "Pentargain  Cove,  with  its  tiny  waterfall,  we 
cross  the  bridge  (starting  from  the  hotel)  and  ascend  the  steep  road  to 
the  right.  In  ^j-z  M.  we  "reach  a  board,  on  the  right,  indicating  the  way 
to  a  farm-house,  where  the  key  is  obtained  (small  fee  expected).  The 
gate  to  unlock  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  road,  opposite  the  notice-board, 
and  the  path  down  to  the  cove  is  unmistakable. 

Pentargain  Cove  may  also  be  taken  in  as  part  of  the  interesting  but 
somewhat  long  and  fatiguing  cliff-walk  to  £wde,  a  distance  of  14  M.  (6-7 
hrs.).  Refreshments  may  be  obtained  at  a  farm-house  at  St.  Genny's  (no 
inn),  not  quite  halfway.  All  but  very  energetic  pedestrians  will  take 
various  opportunities  of  cutting  off  the  sinuosities  of  the  coast. 

The  road  from  Boscastle  to  Bude  (16  M. ;  coach  thrice  weekly, 
6s. ;  carr.  and  pair  about  30s.)  passes  nothing  calling  for  special 
description.  The  view  as  we  approach  Bude,  passing  A/ar/iamc/twrc/i 
on  the  right,  is  attractive.  Bude  or  Bude  Haven  C Falcon;  Bude),  a 
rising  little  watering-place,  is  a  good  starting-point  for  exploring  a 
fine  coast  and  connected  by  coaches  with  Boscastle,  Tintagel,  Camel- 
ford,  Clovelly,  Bideford,  Holsworthy,  and  Launceston.  Bude  Castle, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  is  a  modern  mansion. 

The  finest  bits  of  the  coast  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Bude  are 
Compass  Point  (with  its  tower),  the  S.  arm  of  the  haven,  and  Efford 
Beacon  (view),  a  little  farther  to  the  S.  —  In  the  opposite  direction  the 
favourite  excursion  is  to  follow  the  cliffs  to  (4  M.)  the  Duck  Pool,  and 
then  to  proceed  inland,  through  the  Combe  Valley,  to  &l-i  M.)  Kilkhampton 
(p.  158),  whence  we  return  to  (5  M.)  Bude  via  (3V-2  M.)  Sfrutton  (p.  158). 
Near  the  point  where  we  turn  inland  is  Stow,  the  site  of  Sir  Richard 
Grenville's  house  (see  '■Westward  Ho^).  —  Following  the  coast  from  the 
Duck  Pool  (sec  above),  we  pass  (1  M.)  the  Lower  Shurpnose.  (1  M.)  Stanbury 
Mouth,  and  (1  M.)  the  Upper  Sharpnose,  and  reach  Pit  M.)  Morwenstow 
(Inn),  now  a  well-known  place  through  its  late  vicar,  the  Heu.  R.  S.  Hawk- 
er (d.  1875) ,  whose  Cornish  ballads"  should  be  fanjiliar  to  all  visitors 
to  this  iron-bound  coast  (see  the  interesting  Life  of  him,  by  the  Bev.  S. 
Baring -Gould;  also  Hawker  s  'Footprints  of  Former  Men  in  Cornwair). 
The  church  of  Morwenstow  is  a  most  interesting  building,  said  to  have 
been  originally  founded  by  St.  Morwenna,  a  Welsh  princess  of  the  5th  cen- 
tury. The  oldest  parts  of  the  present  structure  are  Norman.  Over  the 
door  of  the  vicarage  is  a  curious  rhymed  inscription.  A  little  to  the  S.  is 
Tonacombe,  a  fine  example  of  a  manor-house  of  the  16th  century.  —  On  the 
coast,  just  to  the  N.  of  Morwenstow,  is  the  lofty  HeniiacUff,  whence  the 
walk  may  be  prolonged  to  (7  M.)  Hartland  Quay  and  (2V-j  M.)  Hartland 
Point  (see  p.  169). 


158    Route  20.  CLOVELLY.  From  Camel  ford,. 

The  road  from  Bude  to  Bideford  passes  (l^/o  M.)  Stratton  (Tree 
Inn),  a  little  to  the  N.W.  of  which  is  Stamford  Hill,  where  Sir 
Beville  Grenville  (tomb  in  Kilkhampton  Church)  defeated  the 
Parliamentarians  in  1643.  One  of  the  curious  inclined  planes  on 
the  Bude  ^  Holsworthy  Canal  (p.  153)  is  within  I72  M.  (S.  E.) 
of  Stratton.  —  Ahout  3^/2  M.  beyond  Stratton  we  reach  Kilkhamp- 
ton (Inn),  with  a  partly  Norman,  partly  Perp.  *Church,  containing 
some  fine  carved  benches.  The  halfway  house  is  West  Country  Inn, 
51/2  M.  farther  on.  At  (41/2  M.)  Clovelly  Cross,  16  M.  from  Bude, 
the  coach  is  met  by  a  waggonette,  which  receives  passengers  for 
(I1/2  M.)  Clovelly  (no  extra  charge). 

Those  who  prefer  to  walk  should  take  the  second  turning  to  the  right, 
following  the  telegraph  wires,  and  so  reach  the  New  Eoad  Gate  (seep.  159) 
and  the  village.  Carriages  cannot  go  farther  than  the  New  Road  Gate,  and 
luggage   is  taken    thence  to  the  village  on   sledges  or  on  donkey-hack. 

Clovelly  (^New  Inn,  halfway  down  the  street,  R>.&A.  3s.,  table 
d'hote  3s.  6(i. ;  *RedLion,  small,  at  the  pier,  R.  &  A.  3s.),  decidedly 
the  quaintest  and  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  little  village  in  all 
Devon,  lies  in  a  narrow  and  richly-wooded  combe,  descending  ab- 
ruptly to  the  sea.  It  consists  of  one  main  street,  or  rather  a  main 
staircase,  with  a  few  houses  climbing  on  each  side  of  the  combe  so 
far  as  the  narrow  space  allows.  The  houses,  each  standing  on  a  higher 
or  lower  level  than  its  neighbour,  are  all  whitewashed,  with  gay 
green  doors  and  lattices,  and  the  general  effect  is  curiously  foreign- 
looking.  Clovelly  is  a  Paradise  for  artists,  and  exquisite  subjects 
for  sketches  present  themselves  at  every  corner.  One  of  the 
most  characteristic  views  is  that  looking  down  the  main  street,  with 
the  sea  far  below  and  in  the  background.  The  views  from  the 
quaint  little  pier  and  (better  still)  from  the  sea ,  with  the  pier  in 
the  foreground,  are  also  very  striking.  The  foundations  of  the 
cottages  at  the  lower  end  of  the  village  are  hewn  out  of  the  liv- 
ing rock.  The  New  Inn  ,  which  contains  an  interesting  collection 
of  china,  is  often  full  in  summer  and  it  is  advisable  to  telegraph 
for  rooms  beforehand.  Otherwise  visitors  may  have  to  put  up 
with  the  clean  but  lowly  accommodation  of  a  fisherman's  cottage. 

Clovelly,  heing  the  only  harbour  in  Bideford  Bay,  W.  of  the  Taw, 
has  long  been  an  important  herring -fishing  place.  Its  name  occurs  in 
Domesday,  and  some  authorities  even  maintain  that  there  was  a  Roman 
station  here  and  that  the  name  is  a  corruption  of  'Clausa  Vallis\ 

After  familiarising  himself  with  the  quaint  beauties  of  Clovelly, 
not  forgetting  to  explore  the  'back-staircases',  the  tourist  makes 
his  way  to  the  *Hobby  Drive,  an  avenue  3  M.  in  length ,  affording 
at  intervals  charming  views  of  land  and  sea,  including  the  coast  of 
South  Wales  (adm.  6d.,  weekly  ticket  Is.;  carr.  Is.  6d.,  with  two 
horses  2s. ;  closed  on  Sun.).  We  enter  the  drive  by  the  New  Road 
Gate  (see  above)  and  emerge  at  the  other  end  on  the  Bideford  road, 
near  the  8th  milestone  from  Bideford.  We  may  vary  the  route  in 
returning  by  following  this  road  to  (8/4  M.)  Clovelly  Cross  (see  above), 


to  Bide  ford.  HARTLAND  TOWN.  20.  Route.    159 

and  visiting  the  adjacent  circular  earth-works  known  as  Clovelly 
Dikes  or  Ditchen  Hills  (extensive  view). 

Hohby  Drive  belongs  to  the  OY/nex  of  Clovelly  Court,  the  grounds 
immediately  surrounding  which  are  entered  by  Yellery  Gate,  op- 
posite the  New  Road  Gate  and  a  little  farther  to  the  W.  (adm.  6d. ; 
closed  on  Tues.  and  Sat.,  but  open  free  on  Sun.).  The  walk  along 
the  seaward  side  of  the  park  to  (I74M.)  Gallantry  Bower  (390  ft.), 
affords ,  perhaps ,  the  most  perfect  combination  of  sea  and  wood- 
land scenery  in  England.  The  *View  from  the  lofty  bluff  is 
magnificent.  From  Gallantry  Bower  we  descend  to  (1/2  M.)  *Mouth 
Mill,  a  romantic ,  rock-strewn  little  cove  at  the  end  of  a  wooded 
combe ,  through  which  we  may  return  to  the  road  a  little  to  the 
W.  of  Clovelly.  Perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  take  the  higher  of  the 
two  tracks  on  the  E.  side  of  the  cove ;  this  leads  back  through  part 
of  the  grounds  of  Clovelly  Court  (fine  trees)  and  brings  us  out 
(bending  to  the  left)  on  a  road  near  the  house  and  church.  But 
we  can  scarcely  go  wrong  in  following  the  general  direction  of  the 
stream.    The  whole  round  is  about  5  M. 

In  calm  weather  Mouth  Mill  may  be  reached  by  small  boat  (about 
2s.  6d.),  an  excursion  which  reveals  Gallantry  Bower   to   full   advantage. 

Those  who  are  equal  to  a  very  rough  and  uncomfortable  walk 
may  at  low  water  scramble  along  the  shingle  to  the  E.  of  Clovelly  as 
far  as  (2V2  M.)  Bucks  Mill,  whence  a  lane  ascends  to  the  Bideford  Road. 
On  the  way  we  pass  a  curious  natural  archway  of  rock  and  one  or  two 
small  waterfalls  descending  from  the  cliffs  (apt  to  disappear  in  dry  wea- 
ther), the  first  of  which  is  the  Freshwater  of  'Westward  Ho!'  (chap.  v.). 
According  to  a  local  tradition  the  inhabitants  of  Bucks  are  the  descendants 
of  ship-wrecked  Spaniards. 

The  road  running  due  W.  from  Clovelly  Cross  leads  to  (4  M.)  Hart- 
land  Town  (King's  Arms),  and  thence  to  (2M.)  Stoke  and  (1  M.)  Hartland 
Quay.  [A  mail-brake  runs  daily  from  Clovelly  to  Hartland  Town ;  fare  Is.] 
The  church  at  Stoke,  sometimes  called  the  'Cathedral  of  North  Devon", 
is  a  handsome  edifice  with  a  lofty  Perpendicular  tower  and  a  fine  rood- 
screen.  Hartland  Alley,  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  E.  of  Stoke ,  is  a  modern  man- 
sion, built  on  the  site  of  an  Augustine  monastery  and  incorporating  some 
remains  of  the  E.E.  cloisters.  The  cliff- scenery  at  Hartland  Point,  the 
extreme  N.W.  angle  of  Devon,  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Hartland  Quay  and 
4  M.  by  road  from  Hartland  Town,  is  very  imposing.  There  is  a  light- 
house here.  A  pleasant  drive  may  also  be  made  to  Blackmouth  Mill ,  on 
the  coast  3/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Hartland  Quay,  by  a  private  road  through 
the  grounds  of  Hartland  Abbey  (permission  obtained  at  the  King's  Arms). 

Clovelly  is  the  nearest  point  for  a  visit  to  (17  M.)  Lundyt  (sailing- 
boat  20-30s.),  which  should  not  be  attempted  except  in  calm  weather. 
Mail-skiff  from  Instow,  see  p.  160;  steamer  from  Ilfracombe,  see  p.  16'2. 
The  island,  which  was  formerly  a  great  resort  of  pirates  and  smugglers, 
is  3V2  M.  long  and  V2-V4  M.  broad.  It  belongs  to  a  family  named  Heaven, 
and  contains  about  fifty  inhab.,  who  occupy  themselves  in  farming  and 
in  the  lobster  and  other  fisheries.  The  Church  of  St.  Helena,  with  a  tower 
70  ft.  in  height,  was  completed  in  1897.  A  walk  round  the  island  reveals 
ranch  fantastic  rock  scenery,  to  many  points  of  which  appropriate  names 
have  been  given.  Probably  the  best-known  is  the  towering  Shutter  Rock  at 
the  S.  end  of  the  island,  which  plays  a  prominent  part  in  one  of  the 
most  powerful  scenes  in  'Westward  Hoi'  (chap,  xxxii).  A  good  view  is 
obtained  from  the  top  of  the  Lighthouse,   about  2V2  M.  from  the  Shutter. 


i  'Island'  is  a  pleonasm,  as  the  'y',  i.  e.  'ey',  in  Lundy  means  island. 


160   Route  20.  BIDEFORD. 

In  flummer  Clovelly  is  frequently  visited  by  an  excursion -steamer 
from  Ilfracombe,  by  which  some  may  prefer  to  continue  their  journey; 
but  it  is  not  convenient  for  the  transport  of  luggage,  as  passengers  embark 
in  small  boats.  —  Besides  the  tri-weekly  coach  from  Bude,  passing  Clovelly 
Cross,  Clovelly  has  daily  direct  communication  with  (11  M.)  Bideford  by 
a  mail-brake  (fare  Ss.)?  starting  from  New  Road  Gate. 

From  Clovelly  to  Bideford.  For  this  part  of  the  route  even 
pedestrians  may  follow  the  road ;  hut  whether  walking  or  driving 
the  traveller  should  go  by  the  lovely  Hobby  Drive  (p.  158)  for  the 
first  3  M.  The  mail-brake  takes  this  route  in  summer,  and  it  is  as 
easy  to  catch  the  Bude  coach  at  the  London  Lodge  of  the  Hobby 
as  at  Clovelly  Cross.  The  road  for  5  M.  or  so  beyond  the  Hobby 
Gate  lacks  interest,  though  relieved  by  views  of  the  sea.  It  passes 
the  hamlets  of  West  and  East  Bucks  (comp.  p.  159).  Refreshments 
may  be  obtained  at  the  Hoops  Inn,  halfway  between  Clovelly  and 
Bideford.  Beyond  (2  M.)  Fairy  Cross  and  (3/4  M.)  Ford  the  road 
becomes  pleasantly  shaded.  Those  who  have  time  should  diverge 
to  the  left  at  a  point  about  1  M.  beyond  Ford  and  follow  the  some- 
what longer  road  via  Abbotsham,  a  village  with  a  small  but  inter- 
esting church.  As  we  approach  Bideford  we  have  a  view  to  the 
left  of  the  estuary  of  the  Taw. 

Bideford  (*Royal,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  near  the 
station  ;  New  Inn,  in  the  highest  part  of  the  town,  with  view  •,  Tan- 
ton's,  on  the  river,  near  the  bridge  ;  Newfoundland,  unpretending; 
Rail.  Buffet),  a  busy  port  and  lishing-town  (7831  inhab.},  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  Torridye,  about  3  M.  above  its  estuary.  The 
'little  white  town  of  Bideford'  (pron.  'Biddyford'),  well  known 
from  the  description  in  'Westward  Ho  !',  contains  little  to  arrest  the 
tourist;  but  before  leaving  it  he  should  ascend  to  (1/4  hr.)  Chud- 
leigh's  Fort  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  We  cross  the  long  bridge 
(24  arches),  built  in  the  14th  cent,  but  afterwards  widened,  and 
ascend  past  the  station,  soon  turning  to  the  left  and  passing  through 
a  farm  gate  (2rf.). 

Omnibuses  (fare  I5.)  and  mail-brakes  (6d.)  run  daily  from  Bideford 
Station  to  Westward  Ho  (Royal  Hotel,  9s.  6d.  per  day,  well  spoken  of  5 
Febble  Ridge  Hotel),  a  rising  little  watering-place,  2V2  M.  to  the  K.W,, 
named  from  Kingsley's  well-known  novel.  To  the  N.  are  the  Northam 
Burrows,  one  of  the  best  golflng-grounds  in  England.  —  Still  farther  to 
the  N.  (21/2  M.) ,  at  the  point  where  the  Torridge  flows  into  the  estuary 
of  the  Taw,  lies  Appledore  (Inn),  the  busy  little  foreport  of  Bideford. 

From  Bidefoed  to  Torkington,  5  M.,  railway  in  12  minutes.  Tor- 
rington  (Globe)  is  a  small  and  ancient  town,  where  General  Fairfax  won 
a  decisive  battle  over  the  Royalists  in  1646. 

From  Bideford  to  Barnstaple  and  Ilfracombe,  see  R.  21. 

21.  From  Bideford  to  Barnstaple  and  Ilfracombe. 

24  M.  Railway  in  IV4-IV4  hr.  (fares  is.,  Is.  U.,  is.  UVzd.). 

Bideford,  see  above.  The  train  descends  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Torridge  to  (3  M.)  Instow  Quay  (Marine  Inn) ,  a  small  watering- 
place  and  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  opposite  Appledore  (see 
above).    A  mail-skiff  plies  hence  every  alternate  Thurs.  to  Liindy 


BARNSTAPLE.  21.  Route.    161 

(p.  159  ;  fare  5s.,  return  7s.  6rf.).  —  The  train  now  turns  to  the  right 
and  ascends  the  S.  bank  of  the  estuary  of  the  Taw.   6  M.  Fremington. 

9  M.  Barnstaple  (Golden  Lion,  well  spoken  of;  Fortescue  Anns ; 
Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms).,  locally  Bariim,  a  thrivin?  and  well-built  town 
with  13,058  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Taw,  about 
8  M.  from  the  sea.  It  was  an  important  seaport  at  an  early  period  in 
English  history,  and  still  carries  on  a  considerable  trade.  Its  pottery 
('Barum  ware')  is  celebrated.  It  possesses  three  railway-stations, 
all  connected  with  each  other:  Barnstaple  Junction  (L.  S.W.R.)^  for 
London  via  Exeter  and  Salisbury,  and  for  Bideford  and  Ilfracombe  ; 
Barnstaple  (G.  W.  R.),  3/^  M.  from  the  first,  for  London  via  Taunton 
and  Bristol,  and  for  Ilfracombe  ;  and  Barnstaple  Town  Station,  V2^^- 
from  the  first,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Taw.  The  only  buildings  of 
interest  are  the  Parish  Church,  dating  in  part  from  the  14th  cent., 
but  freely  restored;  the  Grammar  School,  formerly  St.  Anne's 
Chapel;  Queen  Annes  Walk,  a  colonnade  of  last  century;  and  the 
Athenaeum.  The  Bridge,  ^yidened  in  1834,  dates  from  the  13th  cent. 
There  are  interesting  churches  at  Pilton,  ^j-i  M.  to  the  N.,  and  at 
(4  M.)  Swimbridge  (p.  128).  A  Promenade  skirts  the  river  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  town,  and  the  Rock  Park  may  also  be  mentioned. 

From  Barnstaple  to  Tattnton ,  see  p.  128;  to  Exeter.,  see  p.  105.  — 
Coaches  also  run  from  Barnstaple  to  (18  M.)  Lynton  (3  hrs.j  fare  5s.); 
railway  approaching  completion. 

The  Ilfracombe  train  crosses  the  Taw  to  the  Town  Station  (see 
above),  and  runs  along  the  N.  bank  of  the  river.  It  then  turns  to 
the  right  (N.)  and  stops  at  (14  M.)  Wrafton  and  (15  M.)  Braunton, 
the  church  of  which  has  an  E.E.  chancel,  a  Perp.  tower,  and  some 
good  carved  pews.  Braunton  Burrows  lie  to  the  S.W.  —  21  M. 
Morthoe  Sf  Let  (Fortescue  Inn).  The  village  of  Morthoe  (see  p.  163) 
lies  2  M.  to  the  W.,  and  Lee  (p.  162)  about  the  same  distance  to 
the  N.  The  train  then  descends  the  E.  side  of  the  Slade  Valley  to  — 

24  M.  Ilfracombe.  —  Hotels.  Ilfracombe  Hotel,  an  extensive 
building  facing  the  sea,  with  large  swimming  and  other  baths,  etc., 
R.  &  A.  from  4«.,  table  d'hote  B.  2s.  6c/.,  D.  5s.,  pens,  in  winter  3l.  3s. 
per  week;  *Royal  Clarence,  High  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.  Gel.,  table  dhote 
B.  2s.  6(7.,  D.  4.f.  6(i. ;  *Belgkave  Private  Hotel,  near  the  Ilfracombe 
Hotel;  Dldley  Private  Hotel,  near  the  Capstone  Hill,  highly  spoken  of, 
5-lOs.  per  day.  il.  10s.  Qd.-Sl.  3s.  per  week,  ac-ording  to  season;  Britannia, 
at  the  Pier;  Qdeen's,  Great  Western,  Victoria,  all  in  High  St.  —  Hotel 
and  railway  omnibuses  meet  the  principal  trains. 

Cabs.  With  1  horse  (for  1-2  pers.)  Is.  per  mile;  each  addit.  V2  M.  6d.', 
each  addit.  pers.  3rf.;  with  2  horses  Is.  6(i.,  9d.,  6d.;  by  time  (1-4  pers.) 
2s.  Gd.  per  hr.  and  Is.  each  addit.  1/2  hr.  for  one-horse  cabs;  3s.  9d.  and 
Is.  6d.  for  two-horse  cabs.  To  Water mouih  Castle  and  back  (1-4  pers.) 
4s.,  with  stay  of  1  hr.  5s.;  to  Lee  Beach  and  back,  with  stay  of  1  hr., 
1-2  pers.  6s.,  3-4  pers.  7s.;  to  Morthoe  Church  and  back  (1-4  pers.),  with 
2  hrs.  stay,  8s.;  to  Comhe  Martin,  with  stav  of  1  hr.,  7s.  Donkev-carria'ies, 
V2  M.  Gd.,  1  M.  8d.,  each  addit.  1/2  M.  4rf.;  per  hr.  Is.,  each  addit.  V2  hr. 
6d.  (bargaining  desirable  for  the  longer  excursions,   to   the  Downs,  etc.). 

Sailing  Boats  per  hr.  for  1-5  pers.  2s.  6f/.,  each  addit.  p«rs.  6rf.  — 
Rowing  Boats  10s.  Grf.  per  day.  Is.  Qd.  per  hr.  (1-4  pers.),  each  pers. 
beyond  four  6rf.  extra.    Boat  to  or  from  a  steamer  3d.  each  person. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  11 


162   Route  21.  ILFRACOMBE. 

Steamers  ply  regularly  to  Swansea  (6s.,  4s.)  and  Bristol,  and  excursion 
steamers  also  ply  occasionally  to  Clovelly  (return-fares  4s.  6c?.,  3s.),  Lundy 
(4s.  6d.,  3s.),  and  Lynmouth  (single  2s,  6rf.,  return  3s.  6<?.). 

Coaches.  To  Barnstaple,  to  Wollacomhe,  and  to  Combe  Martin  (p.  164); 
to  Lynton,  R.  22. 

Bathing  Coves  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  Wildersmouth  Bay,  below 
the  Tor  Walks  and  approached  by  tunnels  through  the  rock. 

Ilfracomhe,  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bristol 
Channel,  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  -watering-places  in  Devon, 
with  about  7700  residents.  Its  chief  attractions  are  its  fine  air 
(which,  teste  Charles  Kingsley,  'combines  the  soft  warmth  of  South 
Devon  with  the  bracing  freshness  of  the  Welsh  mountains'),  the 
picturesque  rock-bound  coast,  and  the  numerous  pleasant  excur- 
sions that  may  be  made  in  all  directions.  Formerly  it  was  a  seaport 
of  some  consideration,  and  it  contributed  six  vessels  to  the  English 
fleet  at  a  time  (14th  cent.)  when  Liverpool  sent  only  one. 

The  only  building  calling  for  mention  is  the  prominently- 
situated  Parish  Church,  a  Perp.  structure  with  Norman  and  E.E. 
features.  Two  memorial  stones  outside  the  S.  aisle  of  the  chancel 
record  the  names  of  seven  local  centenarians.  — The  top  of  Capstone 
Hill  (180  ft.),  the  conical  turf-clad  bluff  to  the  E.  of  Wildersmouth 
Bay,  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  town.  At  its  foot  is  the 
Victoria  Promenade,  a  covered  arcade  where  a  band  plays  and  con- 
certs are  given.  To  the  E.,  on  the  outer  side  of  the  harbour,  is 
Lantern  Hill,  a  similar  knoll,  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
chapel,  now  converted  into  a  harbour-light.  A  pleasant  walk  may 
also  be  enjoyed  on  the  Pier  (Id.),  after  which  we  may  skirt  the  S. 
side  of  the  harbour  to  Rapparee  Cove  and  ascend  the  lofty  Heles- 
borough  (450  ft. ;  extensive  view;  donkey  nearly  to  the  top,  Is.). 

The  most  frequented  resort  near  Ilfracombe  is  the  *Tor  Walks, 
a  promenade  running  along  the  seaward  side  of  the  hills  to  the  W. 
of  the  town ,  and  almost  challenging  comparison  with  the  Great 
Orme  Drive  at  Llandudno  (p.  285).  The  entrance  (adm.  Id.)  is 
near  the  Baths,  Northfleld  Road.  From  the  middle  of  the  Tor  Walks 
we  may  descend  to  the  pretty  little  White  Pebble  Bay ,  on  the  W. 
side  of  Tor  Point.  By  climbing  the  fence  at  the  end  of  the  Tor 
Walks  and  keeping  to  the  left  (inland)  across  the  downs,  we  can 
join  the  path  to  Lee  described  below. 

Environs.  Walk  to  Lee  and  Moethoe,  5-6  M.  Starting  from  High 
St.  we  follow  Church  St.  and  proceed  in  a  straight  direction,  passing  to 
the  left  of  the  church,  to  a  narrow  lane  ascending  to  the  open  cliffs  (Lee 
Downs).  Or  we  may  ascend  Church  Hill,  pass  to  the  right  of  the  church, 
and  climb  a  zigzag  path ,  at  the  top  of  which  we  turn  to  the  left  and 
soon  reach  the  above-mentioned  lane  (to  the  right).  The  walk  along  the 
Downs  to  (21/2  M.)  Lee  is  very  pleasant.  A  little  way  down  the  descent 
to  Lee  Beach  we  pass  a  stile  and  notice-board  on  the  left,  indicating 
the  nearest  way  to  "Lee  Hotel,  which  lies  in  the  valley  about  1/2  M.  from 
the  sea.  We  may  return  from  Lee  by  the  road,  which  passes  through 
Slade  Valley.  —  Those  who  wish  to  prolong  the  walk  to  Morthoe  ascend 
the  steep  track  to  the  W.  of  Lee  Beach,  and  soon  reach  (1/2  M.)  a  sign- 
post pointing  the  way  on  the  left  to  (2M.)  Morthoe  station  (p.  161).  We 
keep   straight  on,   however,    and   pass   through   two  gates,  beyond   the 


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MORTHOE.  21.  Route.    163 

second  of  which  is  a  sign-post  showing  the  way  to  Bull  Point,  At  the 
gate  which  we  next  pass  we  descend  to  the  left  along  the  hedgerow  and 
soon  strike  the  path  again.  On  crossing  the  brook  at  the  bottom  of  the 
combe  we  take  the  higher  path,  ascending  to  the  left,  which  soon  brings 
us  to  the  (1  M.)  road,  close  to  a  white  gate.  To  visit  Oh  M.)  Bull  Point 
Lighthouse  we  pass  through  this  gate,  to  which  we  have  to  return  in 
any  case  to  pursue  our  route  to  Morthoe.  For  the  latter  we  follow  the 
road  towards  the  left,  passing  through  several  other  gates,  to  (IV2  M.) 
Morthoe  (Chichester  Inn),  with  an  E.E.  church  (restored),  containing  the 
interesting  tomb  of  William  de  Tracey  (1322),  generally  confounded  with 
Thomas  Becket's  murderer  (see  pp.  28,  130).  About  1/2  M.  farther  on  is 
Barracane  Bay,  with  a  beach  of  shell-debris;  and  adjoining  this  are  the 
extensive  sands  of  Wollacombe  Bay  (Hotel;  coach  from  Ilfracombe  and 
back,  8s.).  (Donkey  from  Barracane  Bay  to  Morthoe  3-6d. ;  seat  inn  a 
vehicle  from  Morthoe  to  Morthoe  station  6c?.)  About  1  M.  due  W.  of 
Morthoe  is  Morte  Point,  a  savage  rocky  promontory  that  does  not  belie 
its  name,  commanding  a  fine  view.  It  is  reached  by  passing  across  the 
land  of  a  farmer  who  charges  2d.  for  the  privilege.  There  is  a  local 
saying  to  the  effect  that  'Morte  is  the  place  on  earth  which  Heaven 
made  last  and  the  Devil  will  take  first'.  We  may  now  return  to  Ilfra- 
combe by  coast,  road,  or  railway  (see  p.  160). 

Another  popular  short  walk  is  to  Two  Pots  (730  ft.),  21/2  M.  to  the 
S.  We  may  go  by  the  old  Barnstaple  road  along  the  ridge,  leading  S. 
from  Church  St.,  and  return  by  the  new  road  through  the  valley. 

A  third  favourite  excursion  is  the  walk  or  drive  to  (4^/4  M.)  Combe 
Martin,  which  is  described  below  (R.  22).  Coach  to  Berry  Doicn,  returning 
by  Combe  3Iartin  and  Watermouth  (fare  35.  6d.)-  ^ele.  Berry  Sarhor,  and 
Watermouth.  see  below.  Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Chamber  combe,  to 
(7  M.)  Braunton  and  Braunton  Burrows  (p.  161),  to  (6  M.)  Oeorgeham,  Bide- 
ford.  Barnstaple  (coach  via  Braunton  3s.,  return-fare  4«.  6d.),  etc. 

No  one  should  leave  Ilfracombe  on  his  return  towards  the  E.  without 
having  seen  Clovelly  (p.  158). 

22.  From  Ilfracombe  to  Lynton  (Lynmouth)  and 
Minehead, 

37  M.  This  route  may  be  accomplished  either  by  road  or  by  cliff- 
path  along  the  coast.  All  tolerable  pedestrians  are  strongly  advised 
to  choose  the  latter,  which  is  one  of  the  most  charming  walks  in 
England.  In  either  case  the  journey  should  be  broken  for  at  least 
a  night  or  two  at  Lynton  or  Lynmouth  (p.  166).  —  During  summer 
Coaches  ply  daily  from  Ilfracombe  to  (17  M.)  Lynton  (fare  4-5s. ;  return 
7s.),  and  from  Lynton  to  (20  M.)  Minehead  (Gs.  Gd.);  and  it  is  possible  to 
make  the  entire  journey  in  one  day.  Walkers  may  obtain  night-quarters 
at  Combe  Martin,  Hunter's  Inn,  Lynton,  and  Par  lock. 

a.  By  Road. 

We  leave  Ilfracombe  by  Larkstone  Terrace  and  skirt  the  S.  base 
of  Heleshorough  (p.  162)  to  (l'/2  M.)  Hele,  below  which,  to  the  left, 
is  the  pretty  little  Hele  Bay.  The  old  road  to  Lynton  here  diverges 
to  the  right,  passing  [2  M.)  Berry  Narb or,  the  birthplace  of  Bishop 
Jewel  (1522-71),  a  village  with  a  Perp.  church  and  an  old  manor- 
house  (now  a  farm),  and  rejoins  the  new  road  at  (I'/o  J^IO  Combe 
Martin  (p.  164).  We  continue  to  follow  the  coast- road.  1V4^1- 
(23  4  M.  from  Ilfracombe)  Watermouth,  a  picturesque  little  harbour, 
with  a  large  modern  castle.  By  crossing  a  small  stone  bridge  to  the 
left  we  may  visit  the  Smallmouth  Caves ,  in  a  rocky  little  glen 

11* 


164    Route  22.  EXMOOR.  From  Ilfracomhe 

descending  to  the  sea.  Opposite  the  castle  is  an  iron  gate  admitting 
to  a  path  by  which  the  foot-passenger  may  cut  off  ahout  72  M.  After 
about  1  M.  more  we  reach  Sandabay,  and  V2M.  farther  we  find  our- 
selves at  the  seaward  end  of  the  long  village  of  Combe  Martin 
(King's  Arms),  which  stretches  inland  for  a  distance  of  1^4  M.  The 
church,  partly  E.E.  and  partly  Perp.,  has  a  beautiful  Perp.  tower, 
100  ft.  high.  The  hill  to  the  left  is  named  the  Little  Hangman 
(755  ft.)  ;  and  beyond  it,  farther  to  the  E.,  is  the  Oreat  Hangman 
or  Gurt  Doxcn  (1080  ft.).  At  the  end  of  Combe  Martin  a  rough 
cross-country  road  diverges  to  the  left  to  Trentishoe  (p.  165)  and 
so  to  Lynton,  but  the  coach-road  ascends  to  the  right  (inland), 
affording  good  retrospects  of  the  coast.  At  (41/4  M.)  Blackmore  Gate 
(formerly  a  toll-bar)  we  turn  to  the  left  and  descend  to  (1^/4  M.) 
Parracombe  (Fox  and  Goose),  6  M.  from  Lynton,  beyond  which  we 
again  ascend  and  soon  obtain  a  view  of  the  sea  near  Heddon's  Mouth. 
The  last  part  of  the  route  descends  through  the  valley  of  the  West 
Lyn ,  which  beyond  (4  M.)  Barbrook  Mill  is  very  picturesque. 
From  (3/4  M.)  Lyn  Bridge  (Inn)  the  descent  to  Lynton  is  rather 
steep.  At  the  (3/4  M.)  fork  those  bound  tor  Lynton  (p.  166)  keep  to 
the  left,  while  those  for  Lynmouth  (p.  166)  descend  to  the  right. 

To  continue  our  journey  to  Minehead  we  cross  the  bridge  at 
Lynmouth  and  ascend  the  long  and  steep  hill  (fine  retrospects)  to 
the  right  to  (2  M.)  Countisbury  (Blue  Ball  Inn).  About  halfway 
up,  a  path  on  the  left  diverges  to  Sillery  Sands.  Beyond  Countis- 
bury the  road  skirts  the  N.  margin  of  Exmoor  Forest. 

Exmoor  Forest,  a  tract  of  hilly  moorland,  about  30  sq.  M.  in  extent, 
in  many  respects  resembles  a  miniature  Dartmoor  (see  p.  136),  though 
the  granite  tors  of  the  latter  are  here  replaced  by  the  less  rugged  out- 
lines of  slate  and  sandstone  formations.  It  is  known  for  its  ponies,  of 
which  the  genuine  breed  is  now  rare,  its  red  cattle,  and  its  sheep.  It  is 
the  only  part  of  England  where  the  red  deer  still  occurs  in  a  wild  state, 
and  the  Exmoor  stag-hounds  attract  numerous  visitors  (comp.  p.  128). 
Good  fishing  is  atTorded  by  the  numerous  streamlets  traversing  the  Forest. 
The  highest  point  of  Exmoor  is  Dunkery  Beacon  (see  p.  165),  and  many 
of  its  other  hills  attain  an  elevation  of  1200-1600  ft.  For  excursions  into 
or  across  Exmoor,  see  pp.  167,  168. 

About  1  M.  from  Countisbury  a  road  on  the  right  descends  to 
the  valley  of  the  Brendon  (p.  167).  To  the  left  we  have  fine  views 
over  the  Bristol  Channel,  with  the  Welsh  coast  in  the  background. 
Farther  on  we  pass,  on  the  left,  the  Old  Barrow  (1135  ft.)  and  the 
entrance  to  Glenthorne  (p.  169 ;  seen  below,  to  the  left),  and  then, 
at  (21/2  M.)  County  Gate  (1060  ft.),  we  leave  Devon  and  enter 
Somerset.  To  the  right  are  Malmsmead  and  the  Badgeworthy  Glen 
(p.  167).  A  road  on  the  same  side  diverges  to  (1/2  M.)  Oare  Church 
and  the  Exmoor  Kennels  (seen  below,  to  the  right).  On  the  right, 
31/2  M.  farther  on,  a  road  diverges  to  Oareford^  and  at  the  so-called 
(1  M.)  White  Stones  another  on  the  same  side  leads  to  (5M.)  Exford 
(White  Horse),  an  angling  resort  on  the  Exe.  The  old  road  to 
West  Porlock  and  Porlock  (good  views)  diverges  to  the  left  about 


to  Minehead.  PORLOCK.  22.  Route-    165 

1/4  M.  farther  on,  while  the  easier  but  less  attractive  new  road  leads 
in  a  straight  direction  to  (21/2  M. ;  13  M.  from  Lynmouth)  — 

Tovloc^  (Lorna  Doone ;  *Ship,  unpretending;  Castle)^  a  pictur- 
esque little  village  about  ^2  ^^'  from  the  sea,  between  Porlock  Hill 
and  Bossington  Beacon.  About  1  M.  to  the  W.,  on  the  old  road,  is 
West  Porlock^  and  V2  M.  beyond  it,  on  the  coast,  is  the  little  har- 
bour of  Porlock  Weir  (*Anchor  Inn). 

Porlock  is  the  best  startinij-point  for  an  ascent  (2-3  hrs.)  of  Dunkery 
Beacon  (1707  ft. ;  -View),  which  rises  about  4  M.  to  the  S.  Drivin','  is  practic- 
able, via  Lttckham,  to  a  point  within  easy  reach  of  the  top,  but  the  best 
pedestrian  route  is  by  Horner  Woods  and  Cloutsham.  —  The  descent  may 
be  made  on  the  S.W.  side  to  (SVa  M.)  Exford  (p.  164),  whence  we  may  go 
on  to  (41/2  M.)  Simonshath  (p.  168). 

Beyond  Porlock  the  road  leads  somewhat  circuitously  to  (2  M.) 
Holnicote,  where  it  skirts  the  park  of  Sir  Thomas  Acland  (to  the 
right).  The  coach  goes  straight  on  to  (41/2^^0  Minehead,  but 
carriages  should  diverge  to  the  left  and  follow  the  much  pret- 
tier road  through  Selioorthy  Green.  The  two  roads  reunite  at  a 
point  about  2^/2  M.  from  Minehead  (see  p.  168). 

b.   By  the  Coast. 

As  far  as  (4'/4M.)  Combe  Martin  this  route  coincides  with  that 
just  described.  Instead,  however,  of  traversing  the  whole  length 
of  this  village,  we  turn  to  the  left  at  the  fountain,  nearly  oppo- 
site the  King's  Arms  Hotel  and  ascend  towards  Holstone  Down 
(1185  ft.).  [We  may,  however,  go  on  to  the  end  of  the  village 
before  turning  to  the  left.  The  roads  unite  on  the  top  of  the 
Down,  and  sign-posts  keep  us  right.]  The  steep  ascent  from  Combe 
Martin  is  the  worst  bit  of  the  walk,  and  the  view  is  limited. 
After  about  2  M.,  however,  we  reach  the  top  of  the  moor,  beyond 
which  we  have  easy  walking  and  views  of  increasing  attractiveness. 
As  we  descend  to  (3  M. ;  5  M.  from  Combe  Martin)  Trentishoe,  we 
have  a  good  view  of  the  sea  in  front  of  us.  From  Trentishoe  we 
descend  rapidly  to  a  beautifully-wooded  little  combe  ,  through 
which  we  proceed  to  (3/4  M.)  ''Hunter  s  Inn  (unpretending),  charm- 
ingly situated  in  a  valley  about  1  M.  from  the  sea  (angling-ticket  is. 
per  day).  From  this  point  we  may  go  on  to  (5  M.)  Lynton  by  road, 
joining  the  coach-road  (p.  164)  after  3  M.  Walkers,  however,  turn 
to  the  left  and  follow  the  path  along  the  side  of  the  combe  in 
which  the  inn  lies.  This  is  finely  wooded  at  first,  but  changes  its 
character  completely  before  reaching  the  sea  at  (1  M.)  *Heddons 
Mouth,  where  the  scene  is  one  of  singular  wilduess.  From  Heddon's 
Mouth  a  path  has  been  cut  along  the  cliffs  to  (l^/oM.)  *WoodaBay, 
one  of  the  finest  walks  in  England.  Here  our  path  merges  in  a 
cart-track ,  and  at  the  fork  we  take  the  lower  branch  to  the  left, 
soon,  however,  again  ascending.  Beyond  AVooda  Bay  we  reach  Lee 
Bay,    and    at  its   farther  side  we  pass  through  (l'/2  M.)  a  gate 


166     Route  22.  LYNTON.  From  Rfracombe 

opening  on   a  private   road  across  the  grounds  of  Lee  Abbey ,    a 
modern  mansion,  which  we  pass  on  the  left. 

The  promontory  to  the  X.  of  the  Abbey  is  called  *Duty  Point,  and 
permission  to  visit  it  may  be  obtained  at  the  house.  A  legend  relates 
that  a  lady  of  the  family  of  Whichehalse,  the  former  owners  of  Lee 
Abbey,  here  put  an  end  to  her  grief  by  throwing  herself  into  the  sea. 
—  To  continue  our  walk  to  Lynton  we  need  not  return  to  the  Abbey,  but 
may  make   our  way  along  the  cliffs   to  the  Valley  of  Rocks  (see  below). 

We  leave  Lee  Abbey  grounds  by  another  lodge-gate  and  enter 
the  so-called  (1/2  M.)  *Valley  of  Eocks,  with  the  Castle  Rock  (good 
view  from  the  top)  to  the  left  and  the  Cheesewring  to  the  right. 
The  road  through  the  valley  leads  to  (I1/.2  M.)  Lynton,  but  it  is 
better  to  follow  the  cliff-path  (the  *North  Walk),  which  diverges 
to  the  left  and  leads  round  the  rocky  mass  known  as  Ragged  Jack, 
beyond  the  Castle  Rock.  This  path  brings  us  out  about  halfway 
between  Lynmouth  and  Lynton,  the  one  lying  below  us  to  the  left 
and  the  other  above  us  to  the  right. 

Continuation  of  the  route  to  Minehead,  see  p.  168. 

Lynton  and  Lynmouth,.  —  Hotels  at  Lynton:  'Valley  of  Rocks, 
table-dhoteSs.,  R.  <fc  A.  4s.  Gd.;  -Castle,  R.  <fe  A.  4«.,  E.  Is.  6d.,  D.  55.,  these 
two  with  line  views;  Cottage  Pkivate  Hotel,  well  spoken  of,  Crown.  — 
At  Lynmouth:  Bath,  well  spoken  of;  Ltndale,  R.  &  A.  3s.  6d.,  B.  2s.,  D.  3s. 
6d.,  pens.  8s.  (Ist  Aug.  to  15th  Sept.  9s.);  *Toes  Park,  on  a  hill  overlook- 
ing the  sea,  R.  &  A.  4s.  Qd.,  B.  25.  6d.,  D.  3s.  6d. ;  Ltnsiocth  Pbivate 
Hotel,  with  restaurant. 

A  Cliff  Railway  (gradient  1 :  1^/4)  connects  Lynmouth  and  Lynton, 
beginning  near  the  pier  and  ending  near  the  Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel  (V2  min.; 
return-fare  4(i.).  The  railway  is  worked  by  water-power,  and  the  cars 
are  drawn  by  steel  ropes. 

Lynton  and  Lynmouth ,  though  actually  as  well  as  nominally 
distinct,  are  in  so  many  ways  complementary  to  each  other 
that  it  would  be  inconvenient  to  treat  of  them  separately. 
Lynmouth,  one  of  the  loveliest  villages  in  England,  lies  below, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  East  Lyn  and  West  Lyn,  two  little  streams 
which  unite  their  waters  just  before  reaching  the  sea.  Lynton 
stands  400  ft.  higher,  at  the  top  of  the  steep  cliff  enclosing  the 
narrow  little  valley.  Lynmouth  has  the  advantage  of  being  close 
to  the  sea  (though  the  bathing  is  not  good),  and  is  the  natural 
starting-point  for  many  of  the  pleasantest  valley-excursions.  Lyn- 
ton, on  the  other  hand,  enjoys  finer  views  and  a  much  more  open 
and  bracing  situation.  There  is  a  small  pier  at  Lynmouth,  with  a 
tower  at  the  end  of  it ;  it  commands  a  good  view  of  the  place. 

Shelley  stayed  at  Lynmouth  for  some  time  in  1812,  soon  after  his 
marriage  with  Harriet  Westbrook.  The  'myrtle-twined'  cottage  he  occupied 
was  the  last  on  the  left,  looking  towards  the  sea;  but  it  has  been  rebuilt 
since  his  time. 

The  streams  near  Lynmouth  afford  excellent  trout,  salmon-peel,  and 
salmon  fishing.  Tickets  are  issued  for  various  districts  at  charges  rang- 
ing from  Is.  for  a  day  to  30-40s.  for  the  season  (information  at  the  hotels). 

The  prettiest  way  from  Lynton  to  Lynmouth,  or  vice  versa  (about 
1/2  M.),  is  through  the  grounds  of  the  Cottage  Hotel.  Close  to  the 
Lyudale  Hotel  is  the  gate  of  *Olenlyn  (adm.  6d. ;   1-3  pers.  Is.; 


to  Minehead.  DOONE  VALLEY.  22.  Route.     167 

closed  on  Sun.),  in  the  grounds  of  which  is  a  pretty  walk  (7-2  ^^O 
along  the  lower  course  of  the  West  Lyn.  The  mingled  rock,  wood, 
and  water  scenery  recalls  the  Torrent  Walk  at  Dolgelley  (p.  302). 
—  Perhaps  the  best  view  of  the  two  villages  and  their  surroundings 
is  obtained  from  Summerhouse  Hill  or  Lyn  Cliffy  the  top  of  which 
is  reached  in  7-2  ^r.  by  a  path  ascending  from  Lynmouth. 

Excursions  from  Lynmouth  and  Lynton. 
1.  To  Watersmeet,  Rockford,  and  the  Doone  Valley,  10  M.  We 
leave  Lynmouth  by  the  road  leading  to  the  E.,  between  the  Lyndale  Hotel 
and  a  chapel,  and  beyond  the  last  house  take  the  path  to  the  left.  Thia 
soon  brings  us  to  O/2  M.)  a  small  bridge  over  the  East  Lyn,  which  we 
cross.  We  then  follow  the  path  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  which 
here  runs  through  a  narrow  and  richly  wooded  glen ,  with  lofty  wood- 
clad  or  rocky  hills  on  either  side  (fine  views).  After  about  iV4  M.  we  cross 
the  river  by  a  stone  bridge,  and  in  '/■*  ^-  naore  reach  a  wooden  bridge, 
just  below  the  confluence  of  the  East  Lyn  and  Combe  Park  Water, 
which  is  known  as  the  'Watersmeet.  The  best  plan  is  to  continue  to 
ascend  on  the  left  bank  as  far  as  the  actual  junction  (just  opposite  a 
cottage-villa  on  the  other  side)  and  pursue  the  path  a  few  yards  farther 
to  the  rustic  bridge  over  the  Combe  Park  stream.  [Those  who  do  not 
wish  to  walk  farther  may  now  return  to  Lynmouth  by  the  road,  on  the 
left  bank. J  We  then  retrace  our  steps  to  the  wooden  bridge  mentioned 
above,  cross  to  the  right  bank  of  the  E.  Lyn,  and  follow  the  path,  which 
continues  to  ascend  the  streana,  passing  at  the  back  of  the  above-mentioned 
cottage.  Farther  on,  the  path  runs  high  above  the  river,  passes  through 
Nutcombe  Wood,  crosses  an  open  hillside,  and  re-enters  the  woods  by  a 
wooden  gate.  A  little  farther  on,  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  to  the 
so-called  "Long  Pool,  a  dark  and  gloomy  stretch  of  the  river,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  a  small  waterfall.  Returning  to  the  main  path  we  soon 
reach  a  bridge  crossing  to  (2  M.  from  Watersmeet)  Rockford  (Inn).  We 
now  follow  the  road,  also  leading  along  the  left  bank  of  the  East  Lyn, 
or,  as  it  is  here  called,  Brendon  Water.,  to  (1  M.)  Millslade  (Abbey  Inn). 
The  walking  part  of  the  excursion  may  be  conveniently  shortened  by 
hiring  a  pony-carriage  (either  at  the  inn  or  at  a  house  at  the  other  end 
of  the  village)  from  Millslade  to  Malmsmead  and  back  (5s.;  to  Malmsmead, 
and  back  to  Lynmouth  8s.;  waiting  at  Malmsmead  included).  —  As  we 
leave  Millslade  "the  road  from  Countisbury  (see  p.  164)  joins  ours  on  the 
left,  while  opposite  begins  the  direct  pedestrian  route  over  the  moors  to 
the  (23/4  M.)  Doone  Valley.  2  M.  Malmsmead  consists  of  a  group  of  two 
or  three  small  farmhouses,  at  which  tea  and  plain  refreshments  may  be 
obtained.  Carriages  must  be  left  here  and  the  rest  of  the  way  pursued 
on  foot.  We  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Badgewovthy  Water  by  a  cart-track 
for  about  V2  M.,  and  then  follow  a  footpath  which  runs  along  the  stream. 
After  about  V2  M-  more  a  stream  descending  from  the  right  into  the  Badge- 
worthy  Water  is  said  to  be  that  which  suggested  the  'Waterslide'  in 
Mr.  Blackmore's  well-known  novel.  Readers  of  'Lorna  Doone"  will  be 
disappointed  if  they  expect  to  find  a  close  resemblance  between  the 
descriptions  of  the  book  and  the  actual  facts  of  nature.  The 'Waterslide' 
is  a  very  mild  edition  of  the  one  up  which  little  John  Ridd  struggled  so 
painfully;  and  the  'Doone  Valley  itself,  instead  of  being  defended  by  a 
'fence  of  sheer  rock'  and  approached  by  'three  rough  arches,  jagged, 
black,  and  terrible",  is  enclosed  by  rounded  though  somewhat  bleak  moor- 
land hills.  The  home  of  the  Doones  is  a  side-valley  opening  to  the  right 
about  1/2  M.  beyond  the  Waterslide;  and  remains  of  the  foundations  of 
their  huts  may  be  observed  on  each  side  of  the  mound  which  divides  it 
into  two  branches.  Towards  the  close  of  the  17th  cent,  this  valley  was 
the  stronghold  of  the  Doones,  a  band  of  outlaws,  who  lived  here,  like  a 
Highland  clan  on  the  Lowland  borders,  by  levying  black-mail  on  the 
countrv   round.     The    tradition    of  their   terrible  strength   and  cruelty  is 


168      Route  22.  SIMONSBATH.  From  llfracomhe 

said  to  linger  still  in  the  neighbourliood ;  particularly  the  story  of  their 
fiendish  cruelty  in  wantonly  murdering  a  sleeping  infant,  an  act  which 
finally  roused  the  conntry  to  exterminate  the  entire  nest  of  vipers.  But 
see  'Lurna  Doone". 

By  the  direct  road-route  via  Countisbury  (comp.  p.  164),  Jlillslade, 
and  Malmsmead,  the  Doone  Valley  is  8V2  ^1.  from  Lynmouth,  and  walkers 
may  make  it  1  M.  shorter  by  passing  direct  from  Millslade  over  the  moor 
to  Badgeworthy  (see  p.  167).  We  may  now  return  by  any  of  the  routes 
above  indicated:  or  we  mav  farther  vary  the  route  bv  following  the  road 
from  Rockford  (p.  167)  to  0/2  M.)  Br'endon  Church  and  (3/*  M.)  Jl/ord 
Bridges,  near  Combe  Park  Gate.  "We  are  here  about  21/2  M.  from  Lynton 
or  Lynmouth.  The  road  straight  on  leads  to  Lyn  Bridge  (p.  164)  and  Lyn- 
ton; that  to  the  right  descends  by  the  Combe  Park  Water  to  a  point 
above  the  Watersmeet  (p.  167)  and  so  to  LynmouVt,  Summerhouse  Hill 
may  be  included  by  a  digression  from  either  road  (sign-posts).  —  Walkers, 
who  wish  to  see  some  of  the  wildest  parts  of  Exmoor,  may  proceed  to 
the  W.  over  the  hill  between  the  Badgeworthy  valley  and  the  (31/2  M.) 
Chalk  Water  valley  and  descend  (left)  along  the  latter  stream  to  (IV2  M.) 
Oareford  (p.  164),  which  is  2  M.  by  road  (via  Oare)  from  Malmsmead. 

2.  To  SiMONSBATH,  10  M.  For  this  excursion,  which  takes  us  into 
the  heart  of  Exmoor,  we  may  start  from  either  Lynton  or  Lynmouth. 
From  the  former  we  proceed  by  Lyn  Bridge  to  (21/2  M.)  Ilford  Bridges 
(see  above),  while  from  the  latter  we  reach  the  same  point  by  the  road 
by  which  we  began  our  walk  to  Watersmeet.  From  Ilford  Bridges  we 
follow  the  road  leading  due  S.  (to  the  E.  the  road  to  Brendon,  see  above), 
and  after  V2  M.  turn  to  the  left,  passing  Bridge  Ball.  We  next  (1/4  M.) 
turn  to  the  right ,  beyond  the  gate  of  Brendon  Parsonage ,  and  thence 
follow  the  road  which  leads  to  the  S.,  straight  across  Exmoor  (p.  164), 
to  (61/2  M.)  Simousbath.  The  Forest  proper  is  entered  at  (2V2  M.)  the 
so-called  Two  Gates  (now  one  only),  where  we  pass  into  Somerset.  To 
the  left  is  the  head  of  the  Doone  Valley  (p.  167)  •,  to  the  right  rise  Chap- 
man Barrous  (1570  ft.)  and  Exe  Head  Hill.  About  IV4  M.  farther  on  we 
cross  the  Exe.  —  21/2  M.  Simonsbath  (Inn),  on  the  Barle,  is  named  from 
a  pool  a  little  higher  up,  which  tradition  connects  Avith  Sigismund,  the 
drason-slaver.  From  Simonsbath  we  s£0  on  (S.E.)  bv  the  Tor  Steps  to 
(16  M.)  Dulrerton  (see  p.  12S)  or  (due  S.)  to  (10  M.)  South  Molton  (p.  128). 
The  return-route  to  Lynmouth  may  be  varied  by  proceeding  to  the  E. 
to  (41/2  M.)  Exford,  and  thence  to  the  ^T,  to  (5  M.)  the  White  Stones  (p.  164; 
10  M.  from  Lvnmouth).  —  A  coach  plies  thrice  a  week  from  Lynmouth 
to  Dulvertoa  (p.  128;  fare  6s.  6d.)- 

Other  excursions  which  no  visitor  to  Lynton-Lynmouth  should  fail 
to  make  are  those  to  the  (1  M.)  Valley  of  Rocks,  (1  M.)  Lee,  and  (4  M.) 
Heddons  Mouth,  and  to  (7  M.)  Glenthorne  by  the  clitf-path  (see  below). 
These  should  be  preferred  to  the  Simonsbath  route.  Short  walks  may 
be  taken  to  (2  M.)  Countisbury  via  the  Tors,  to  Hollardu  Hill,  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  North  Walk  (p.  166),  to  Sillery  Sands  (p.  164)',  etc. 

Coaches  to  llfracombe,  see  p.  163;  to  Minehead,  see  p.  163;  to  Barn- 
staple, see  p.  161.  —  ExcuESioN  Steamers  ply  in  summer  between  Lyn- 
mouth. llfracombe,  and  Bristol  (p.  114). 

Continuation  of  Coast  Route  to  Minehead.  From  Lyn- 
moutli  to  (2M.)  Countisbury  we  follow  the  road  described  at  p.  164. 
Instead  of  continuing  in  a  straight  direction  through  the  village, 
we  turn  to  the  left,  pass  to  the  right  of  the  church ,  and  follow  an 
obvious  cliff-path,  affording  lovely  views.  To  the  left  is  the  pro- 
montory called  the  Foreland.  This  path  ends  after  less  than  1  M., 
near  the  edge  of  a  wide  and  deep  combe.  We  must  choose  our  own 
line  in  crossing  this,  and  perhaps  the  easiest,  though  not  the 
shortest  way,  is  to  keep  up  the  side  of  the  combe  to  a  point  where 
it  becomes  a  good  deal  shallower.    On  the  other  side  of  the  combe 


to  Mineheacl  GLENTHORNE.  22.  Route.      169 

we  strike  a  cart-track,  which  we  descend  to  the  left  (towards  tlie 
sea)  as  far  as  a  (1/2  M.)  gate.  Beyond  this  the  cart-track  continues 
to  descend  to  Countisbury  Cove,  but  we  follow  the  liigher  path  to 
the  right.  At  the  next  fork  we  take  the  lower  path  and  follow  it, 
avoiding  all  divergences  either  up  or  down.  After  passing  nu- 
merous combes,  some  wooded  and  some  bare,  we  reach  a  small 
iron  gate  (4  M.  from  Countisbury),  marking  the  entrance  to  the 
grounds  of  Glenthorne ,  and  a  little  later  the  footpath  passes 
through  an  archway  and  joins  the  avenue.  This  brings  us  in  sight 
of  (1/2^^0  *Glentliorne  House  (not  shown),  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  small  plateau  overlooking  the  sea.  Visitors  are  admitted  to 
all  parts  of  the  beautiful  little  glen,  and  those  who  do  not  fear  a 
small  addition  to  the  walk  should  follow  part  at  least  of  the  wind- 
ing avenue  leading  to  the  road  (3M. ;  1 1/2  M.  only  in  a  straight  line). 
In  continuing  our  coast-walk  from  Glenthorne  House  we  cross 
a  small  paddock,  a  road,  and  another  field,  and  reach  a  gate  leading 
into  the  woods,  where  the  coast-path  proper  is  resumed.  At  first 
it  is  sometimes  not  clear  which  of  numerous  diverging  paths  we 
should  follow,  but  as  a  rule  we  avoid  descending  and  keep  to  the 
right.  In  a  short  time  we  reach  a  deep  wooded  combe,  which  we 
have  to  ascend  towards  the  right  for  a  considerable  distance  (partly 
in  zigzags)  before  we  reach  a  feasible  point  for  crossing.  On  the 
other  side  we  descend  to  the  left,  and  reach  a  cart-track  leading  to 
the  right  along  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  here  mostly  clothed  with  wood. 
We  keep  as  much  as  possible  at  the  same  level,  avoiding  side- 
paths  up  and  down,  till  we  reach  (4  M.  from  Glenthorne)  Culbone, 
in  a  narrow  little  combe  containing  what  is  said  to  be  the  smallest 
church  in  England  (33  ft.  long  and  12ft.  wide);  refreshments  at  a 
cottage.  Pedestrians  were  formerly  allowed  to  continue  their  walk 
through  the  grounds  of  Ashley  Combe,  the  seat  of  Lord  Lovelace, 
whose  first  wife  was  Lord  Byrons  daughter  Ada  (d.  185'2).  This 
road,  however,  is  now  closed,  and  we  have  to  follow  the  old  road, 
which  runs  a  little  lower  down  through  the  luxuriant  woods  here 
clothing  the  steep  slopes  descending  to  the  sea.  17^  ^^-  Porlock 
Weir  (* Anchor),  1/2  ^-  beyond  which  are  West  Porlock  and  (1  M. 
farther)  Porlock  (p.  165).  This  is  the  end  of  the  finest  part  of  the 
coast  walk,  and  the  traveller  will  not  lose  much  by  completing  his 
journey  to  (HY-2  M.)  Minehead  by  coach  (comp.  p.  165).  Those, 
however,  who  prefer  to  continue  walking,  proceed  N.E.  from  Porlock 
to  (1  M.)  Bossington  Beacon.  They  then  follow  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
passing  (1  M.)  a  cairn  marking  the  highest  part  of  North  Hill. 
About  2  M.  farther  on  they  may  diverge  to  the  left  to  visit  (1/2  -^1-) 
Greenaley,  and  make  their  way  thence  by  the  coast  to  (I'/'i  ^^0 
Minehead  ;  or  they  may  proceed  to  (1^2  M.)  Minehead  direct  along 
the  ridge.  —  Minehead,  see  p.  128. 


170 


23.  From  London  to  Gloucester  and  Hereford. 

Valley  of  the  Wye. 

144  M.  Great  Western  Railway  in  41/4-6V2  hrs.  (fares  24«.,  15s.,  12*, ; 
return  42«.,  26«.  3cf.);  to  Gloucester  (114  M.)  in  8-41/4  trs.  (fares  195.,  124., 
9*.  6cf.;  return  33s.  3d.,  21s.). 

From  London  (Paddington)  to  (771/4  M.)  Swindon,  see  R.  15.  The 
Gloucester  line  now  runs  towards  the  N.W.  and  passes  (81  M.) 
Purton  (p.  liv)  and  (85 V2  M.)  Minety.  —  91  M.  Kemble  Junction. 

From  Kemble  to  Cirencester,  41/2  M.,  railway  in  10-15  minutes.  — 
Cirencester  (Fleece;  King''s  Head).,  pronounced  Cisseter^  the  Corinium  of 
the  Romans,  is  an  ancient  town  with  7500  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Churn., 
amid  the  Cotswold  Hills.  'Our  town  of  Cicester  in  Gloucestershire'  is 
mentioned  by  Shakespeare  (Richard  II.,  v.  6).  It  possesses  one  of  the 
chief  wool-markets  of  England,  and  is  also  a  hunting-centre  of  some  re- 
putation. The  Parish  Church,  which  has  been  carefully  restored,  is  a 
handsome  Perp.  building-,  it  has  a  chapel  with  a  beautiful  fan-vaulted 
roof,  numerous  brasses,  and  a  tower  134  ft.  high.  The  "Corinium  Museum 
contains  a  good  collection  of  Roman  antiquities  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. About  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town  is  the  well-known  Royal 
Agricultural  College.  A  pleasant  drive  may  be  taken  in  Oakley  Park, 
belonging  to  Earl  Bathurst,  an  ancestor  of  whom  ('who  plants  like  Bath- 
urst')  was  frequently  the  host  of  Alexander  Pope-,  Swift  also  writes 
of  his  visits  to  Oakley.  —  About  3  M.  to  the  W.  is  Thames  Head,  the  reputed 
source  of  the  Thames.  —  An  omnibus  runs  from  Cirencester  to  (8  M.) 
Fairford  (p.  189 ;  Is.  6cZ.).  —  From  Cirencester  to  Swindon  and  to  Cheltenham 
via  Andoversfovd,  see  p.  108. 

Another  branch-line  runs  from  Kemble  Junction  to  (7  M.)  Tethury 
(White  Hart). 

We  now  enter  Gloucestershire.  Beyond  the  long  Sapperton 
Tunnel  we  emerge  in  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Stroudwater.  — 
99m.  Brimscombe.  — 102 M.  Stroud  (Imperial;  George;  Railway),  a 
cloth-manufacturing  town  with  11,500  inhah.,  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  side  of  a  hill.  — Beyond  (105  M.)  Stonehouse,  which  is  also 
a  station  on  the  Midland  line  from  Bath  to  Gloucester  (see  p.  113), 
the  line  runs  side  by  side  with  the  Midland  Railway  for  a  short 
distance,  and  affords  fine  views  to  the  left  of  the  Welsh  hills  beyond, 
the  valley  of  the  Severn.    To  the  right  rise  the  Cotswolds. 

114  M.  Gloucester.  —  Hotels.  -Bell,  Southgate  St.,  R.  &  A.  4s.; 
New  Inn,  Northgate  (see  p.  171);  Ram,  Southgate  St.;  Wellington,  op- 
posite the  G.W.  station;  Fowler's  Temperance.  —  Railway  Refreshment 
Rooms. 

American  Consular  Agent,  Mr.  Arnold  H.  Palin,  Commercial  Road. 

Cabs  for  1-2  pers.  Is.  per  mile,  each  addit.  pers.  6c?. ;  per  hour  2s.  6c?. 
—  Tramways  traverse  some  of  the  principal  streets. 

Railway  Stations.  The  station  of  the  O.  W.  Railway  (for  London, 
Hereford,  Cheltenham,  South  Wales,  etc.),  in  Station  Road,  is  connected 
by  a  covered  bridge  with  the  Mid.  Railway  Station  (for  Cheltenham,  Bir- 
mino:ham,  Bristol,  etc.). 

Steamers  (small  and  crowded)  ply  in  summer  to  Tewkesbury  (p.  183),  call- 
ing ne&T  Deerhurst  (p.  184),  and  through  the_  ship-canal  to  Sharpness  (p.  171). 

Gloucester,  the  capital  of  Gloucestershire  and  the  see  of  a  bishop 
(see  p.  118),  contains  39,444  inhab.  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Severn,  on  the  site  of  the  British  Caer  Glowe 


GLOUCESTER.  23.  Route.    171 

('fair  city')  and  the  Roman  Qlevum.  It  contains  extensive  railway 
carriage  and  iron  works,  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  in  agri- 
cultural produce,  timber,  and  the  minerals  of  the  Forest  of  Dean 
(p.  177).  Its  trade  is  facilitated  by  the  Gloucester  and  Berkeley 
Ship  Canal,  which  joins  the  estuary  of  the  Severn  at  Sharpness, 
17  M.  lower  down,  where  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  2/4  M. 
long.  In  1643  the  city  successfully  resisted  the  Royalists  for  a 
month  and  compelled  them  to  retire.  In  consequence  of  this  'malig- 
nity' its  fortifications  were  dismantled  at  the  Restoration.  The 
ground-plan  of  the  Roman  settlement  is  still  preserved  in  the  four 
main  streets,  which  meet  at  right  angles  in  the  centre  of  the  town 
and  are  named  after  the  points  of  the  compass  {Northgate,  South- 
gate,  etc.).  Fragments  of  old  Roman  walls  may  be  seen  under 
several  of  the  houses  in  these  streets. 

The  *Cathedral  (Holy  Trinity),  a  very  handsome  and  elaborately 
adorned  building,  occupies  the  site  of  a  nunnery  founded  by  Wul- 
phere,  the  first  Christian  king  of  Mercia,  about  670,  which  was 
followed  by  a  monastery  (821),  transferred  from  secular  canons  to 
Benedictine  monks  in  1022.  In  its  present  form  the  body  of  the 
church  is  the  work  of  Abbot  Serlo,  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent. ; 
but  this  Norman  core  was  most  skilfully  altered  and  recased,  chiefly 
in  the  14th  cent.,  and  the  general  external  appearance  of  the  edifice 
is  thoroughly  Perpendicular.  The  interiors  of  the  Nave,  Crypt,  and 
Chapter  House  are  Norman;  the  Cloisters  date  from  1351-1412;  the 
W.  Facade  and  the  beautiful  S.  Porch  (fine  Norman  doors)  were 
added  in  1421-37  ;  the  stately  *Tou-er  (225  ft.  high),  with  its  beau- 
tiful tracery  and  pinnacles,  and  the  Lady  Chapel  belong  to  the  second 
half  of  the  15th  century.  The  Cathedral  suffered  considerably  in 
the  Civil  Wars,  when  the  Parliamentarians  are  said  to  have  stabled 
their  horses  in  the  cloisters  (1641).  The  whole  edifice  has  under- 
gone a  careful  restoration  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  G.  G. 
Scott  and  Mr.  Waller.  The  ogee  arch  is  one  of  the  leading  features 
of  the  later  work  (14-15th  cent.).  The  Cathedral  is  420  ft.  long 
and  144  ft.  wide ;  height  of  nave  68  ft.,  of  choir  86  ft.  The  nave  is 
open  free ;  the  E.  part,  including  the  crypt,  chapter-house,  and 
cloisters,  on  payment  of  6(i. ;  the  daily  services  are  at  10.30  a.m. 
and  3  p.m.  The  church  was  raised  to  cathedral  dignity  in  1541, 
having  previously  been  included  in  the  diocese  of  AVorcester.  It  is 
now  associated  with  Bristol  (comp.  p.  118).  Comp.  the  handbook 
by  Waller  and  the  illustrated  account  by  Moore  (is.). 

Interior.  With  the  exception  of  the  two  westernmost  bays,  the  arches 
of  the  Nave  are  all  Norman.  The  massive  circular  piers  are  unusually 
lofty  (301/2  ft.),  while  the  triforium  (perhaps  in  consequence  of  this)  is  very 
low  (comp.  p.  xxxvii).  The  vaultiny:  is  E.E.  (ca.  1240).  Most  of  the  stained 
i^lass  is  modern,  but  there  are  two  ancient  windows  (easily  distinguish- 
able) in  the  N.  aisle.  In  this  aisle  is  a  good  monument  to  Mrs.  Morley 
(d.  1784),  by  Flaxman;  and  there  is  a  statue  of  Dr.  Jenner  (1749-1823),  a 
native  of  the  county  (comp.  p.  182),  at  the  W.  end  of  the  nave.  The  Dec. 
tracery  of  the  windows  in  the  S.  aisle  dates  from  about  131?.  —  In  the  Tran- 


1  72    Route  23.  GLOUCESTER.  Froin  London 

SEPTS  we  meet,  according  to  Mr.  Willis,  the  earliest  known  approach 
to  the  Perp.  style,  engrafted  on  the  INorman  frame-work.  The  vaulting 
under  the  tower  is  apparently  supported  by  curious  flying  arches,  which 
are  perhaps  unique.  The  reliquary  in  the  X.  transept  is  one  of  the  few 
pieces  of  E.E.  work  in  the  church  (13th  cent.). 

The  *Choie,  which  begins  one  bay  to  the  W.  of  the  central  tower,  is 
a  magnificent  example  of  pure  Perp.  character.  The  form  of  the  tracery, 
the  elaborate  vaulting,  the  panelled  walls,  the  vast  E.  window,  the  rich 
stalls,  taken  all  together,  produce  an  effect  unsurpassed  perhaps  by  any 
other  choir  in  England.  Even  the  most  unobservant  visitor  will  see  at 
a  glance  how  the  choir  proper  forms  a  kind  of  Perp.  'case'  inside 
the  original  ISforman  frame,  the  screen  enclosing  it  being  carried  on  all 
sides  up  to  the  roof.  Or  it  may  be  compared  to  a  veil  or  film  of 
tracery  thrown  over  the  original  walls.  Mr.  Willis  believes  that  some  of 
the  Norman  columns  were  pared  down  to  harmonise  with  the  new  design. 
The  date  of  this  (ca.  1351)  shows  that  the  Perp.  style  was  originated  and 
completed  by  the  masons  of  Gloucester.  In  the  ambulatory  of  the  choir 
the  oritiinal  Norman  arches  and  piers  are  left  undisguised.  The  E. 
-Window  of  the  choir,  the  largest  in  England  (72  ft.  by  38  ft.),  is  filled 
with  fine  stained  glass  of  the  14th  century.  The  window  is  actually  wider 
than  the  side-walls  that  contain  it.  The  somewhat  unusual  feature  of  a 
window  at  the  W.  end  of  the  choir  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  latter  is 
much  higher  than  the  nave.  The  Stalls,  with  grotesque  miserere  carvings, 
date  from  the  14th  cent. ;  the  Reredos  is  modern.  The  beautiful  Heme 
vaulting  of  the  choir  should  also  be  noticed.  Between  the  Presbytery 
and  the  N.  ambulatory  is  the  'Tomb  of  Edward  II.  (murdered  at  Berkeley 
Castle  in  1327),  surmounted  by  a  beautiful  canopy.  The  possession  of  the 
liody  of  this  unfortunate  monarch  proved  a  source  of  great  wealth  to 
the  cathedral,  and  the  small  pulpit,  or  desk,  at  which  the  priest  stood 
to  receive  the  contributions  of  the  pious  pilgrims ,  still  exists  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  ambulatory.  From  the  N.  E.  angle  of  the  ambulatory 
projects  Abbot  Boteler's  Chapel  (ca.  1445),  containing  the  ''Tomb  of 
Robert  Gurihose  (d.  1135),  Duke  of  Normandy,  eldsst  son  of  the  Con- 
queror, with  a  curious  effigy  in  Irish  bog-oak.  The  corresponding 
chapel  (both  chapels  are  polygonal)  at  the  S.E.  angle  is  dedicated  to 
St.  Philip.,  and  there  are  also  chapels  at  the  ends  of  the  ambulatory  ad- 
joining the  transepts.  The  one  to  the  S.,  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  has 
"been  restored  and  adorned  with  elaborate  coloured  decorations  by  Mr. 
Gambler  Parry  (comp.  p.  173).  —  We  now  ascend  to  the  Triforium  of 
the  choir,  reached  by  winding  stairs  in  the  W.  turrets  of  the  transepts, 
which  occupies  the  whole  width  of  the  choir-aisles,  and  affords  access  to 
five  small  chapels  corresponding  to  those  below.  The  passage  at  its  E. 
end,  just  above  the  entrance  to  the  Lady  Chapel  (see  below),  is  known 
as  the  'Whispering  Gallery',  as  a  whisper  uttered  close  to  the  wall  at 
one  extremity  is  distinctly  audible  at  the  other. 

The  E.  termination  of  the  cathedral  is  formed  by  the  'Lady  Chapel 
(ca.  1490),  a  fine  Perp.  structure  with  old  stained  glass  (15th  cent.)  and  good 
lierne  vaulting.  It  has  been  narrowed  at  the  W.  end  so  as  not  to  obstruct 
the  light  of  the  great  E.  window  of  the  choir.  There  is  a  small  chapel  on 
each  side,  containing  the  tombs  of  two  bishops.  Above  the  chapels  are 
small  galleries,  which  may  have  l>een  used  by  choristers. 

The  'Cloisters  (135l)-1410),  which  have  no  rival  in  England,  are  en- 
tered by  a  door  at  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  of  the  nave.  The  exquisite 
fan-vaulting  is  the  first  known  instance  of  its  kind  in  the  country.  The 
S.  walk  of  the  cloisters  contained  the  Scriptorium  of  the  monks,  and 
the  N.  walk  their  Lavatory.  —  From  the  E.  walk  of  the  cloisters  we 
enter  the  Chapter  House,  which  is  Norman,  except  at  the  E.  end, 
where  a  large  Perp.  window  has  been  inserted,  A  staircase  ascends  from 
it  to  the  '^Cathedral  Library,  which  contains  a  copy  of  Coverdale's  Bible 
(1535)  and  an  Anglo-Saxon  MS.  of  the  10th  century. 

The  Crypt,  entered  from  the  S.  Transept,  is  mainly  of  Norman  work- 
manship, though  probably  including  relics  of  the  Saxon  abbey  (p.  171), 
and  preserves  the  original  plan  of  the  E.  end  of  the  church. 


to  Hereford.  GLOUCESTER.  23.  Route.    173 

The  top  of  the  Tower  (225  ft. ;  visitors  seldom  admitted)  commands  a 
very  extensive  view.  In  the  lower  part  of  it  hangs  'Great  Peter\  a  bell 
weighinf^  nearly  3  tons.     The  chimes  play  at  1,  5,  and  8  p.m. 

The  triennial  musical  festivals  held  alternately  in  the  cathedrals  of 
Gloucester,  Hereford,  and  Worcester,  for  the  performance  of  oratorios 
and  other  pieces  of  sacred  music,  are  very  numerously  attended. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Cathedral  lie  some  remains  of  the  Monastic  Buildings 
of  the  Benedictine  abbey  in  which  the  see  took  its  rise  (see  p.  171). 
These  include  the  so-called  'Little  Cloisters'  (Perp.)  and  several  E.  E. 
arches.  Three  or  four  ancient  Gateways  to  the  cathedral -precincts  still 
remain,  the  most  interesting  being  the  West  Gale  (12th  cent.},  in  St.  Mary's 
Sijuare.  The  modern  cross  opposite  the  latter  is  a  memorial  to  Bishop 
Hooper,  who  suffered  martyrdom  on  this  spot  in  1555.  The  new  Episcopal 
Palace  adjoins  the  monastic  remains.  The  picturesque  ''Deanery,  to  the 
N.  of  the  W.  front  of  the  cathedral,  carefully  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott, 
is  the  old  Prior  s  Lodge.  The  E.  end  of  the  fine  room  now  used  as  the 
Deans  Library,  and  once  probably  the  Prior's  Chapel,  is  pure  Korman  of 
the  lith  or  early  12th  cent.;  and  the  curious  'slype'  beneath  it  is  of  the 
same  period.  The  back  part  of  the  Deanery  is  of  timber  and  dates  from 
the  12th  or  13th  cent. ;  it  contains  a  large  room  in  which  the  Gloucester 
Parliament  of  Richard  II.  (1377-91))  was  held. 

Gloucester  contains  about  12  other  churches,  of  which  the  most 
interesting  are  St.  Mary  le  Crypt  (Perp.),  St.  Nicholas  (Perp.), 
St.  Mary  de  Lode,  and  St.  Michael,  from  the  tower  of  which  the 
curfew  is  still  sounded  every  evening.  Near  the  docks  are  the 
scanty  remains  of  Llanthony  Priory ,  originally  an  offshoot  from  the 
priory  of  that  name  in  Monmouthshire  (p.  192).  The  New  Inn 
is  an  interesting  brick  and  timber  edifice,  erected  about  1450  for 
the  accommodation  of  pilgrims  to  the  shrine  of  Edward  II.  (p.  172). 

—  On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  town  is  a  Public  Park,  with  a  chalybeate 
spring.  The  Museum,  in  Brunswick  St.,  contains  Roman  antiquities 
found  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  horns  of  the  cow  from  which 
Dr.  Jenner  (p.  171)  procured  his  original  stock  of  lymph,  etc.  In 
Southgate  St.  is  a  timber-framed  house  once  occupied  by  Robert 
Raikes  (1735-1811),  a  native  of  Gloucester  and  the  founder  of  the 
first  Sunday  School  in  England ;  and  there  is  another  interesting 
old  house  in  a  passage  opposite  the  Fleece  Inn  in  Westgate  St.  — 
Numerous  pleasant  walks  and  drives  may  be  taken  in  the  environs. 

—  The  'bore'  on  the  Severn  may  be  seen  from  Westgate  Bridge, 
or  to  greater  advantage,  about  2  M.  below  Gloucester. 

From  Gloucester  to  Bristol  and  to  Bath,  see  R.  15;  to  Chellenhum 
and  Birmingham,  see  R.  24.  Excursions  may  easily  be  made  to  the  Forest 
of  Dean  (p.  177)  and  the  Valley  of  the  Wye  (p.  174). 

Passengers  for  Ross  and  Hereford  sometimes  change  carriages  at 
Gloucester  and  proceed  by  the  South  Wales  Railway  (G.W.R.).  On 
quitting  the  town  we  obtain  a  good  retrospect  of  the  cathedral,  and 
afterwards  enjoy  a  succession  of  fine  views  of  the  valley  of  the 
Severn.  About  2 M.  from  Gloucester  we  pass  (on  the  right)  Highnam 
Church,  the  interior  of  which  was  elaborately  painted  by  the  late 
Mr.  Gambier  Parry  (p.  172),  whose  house,  Highnam  Court,  is  seen 
on  the  same  side  farther  on.  —  At  (1211/0  M.)  Grange  Court  our 
line  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  line  to  South  Wales  (K.  25). 
Farther  on  we  pass  Blaisdon  Hill  on  the  right,  while  1  M.  to  the 


174   Route  23.  ROSS.  From  London 

left  is  Flaxley  Abbey  ^  the  residence  of  Sir  Roger  de  Coverley's 
'Widow'  (Mrs.  Boevy).  To  the  right,  at  (125  M.)  Longhope,  rises 
May  Hill  (1000  ft.).  1271/2^.  Micheldean  Road,  the  station  for 
(I1/2M.)  Micheldean,  a  small  town  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  Forest  of 
Dean,  with  a  church  containing  a  fine  oaken  roof.  The  train  now 
enters  Herefordshire,  a  pleasant  cattle  -  grazing  district,  which, 
according  to  Camden  (''Britannia  )  'would  scorne  to  be  considered 
seconde  to  any  other  county  throughout  all  England  for  fertilite  of 
soile',  adding  'that  for  three  W.W.W.  —  wheat,  wool,  water  —  it 
yieldeth  to  no  shire  in  England'.  The  traveller  should  not  omit  to 
taste  its  perry  and  cider.  To  the  left,  in  front  of  us,  rises  the  Penyard. 
132  M.  Ross  (*Royal,  near  the  church,  with  a  fine  view,  R.  &  A. 
from  4s.  6d.,  B.  2-3s.,  D.  3s.  Qd.-bs. ;  Swan;  King's  Head),  a  pretty 
little  town  with  3575  inhah.,  stands  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  Wye, 
which  Is  here  crossed  by  a  picturesque  bridge.  The  *Church,  a  hand- 
some Dec.  and  Perp.  building,  with  a  lofty  spire,  conspicuous  in  all 
views  of  the  town,  contains  the  tomb  (in  the  chancel)  of  John  Kyrle 
(d.  1724),  the  'Man  of  Ross'  immortalized  in  Pope's  well-known 
poem,  as  well  as  some  interesting  monuments  of  theRedhall  family. 
Kyrle  also  planted  the  elms  in  the  churchyard,  and  inside  the 
church  are  two  offshoots  from  one  of  these  (now  dead) ,  which 
forced  their  way  below  the  wall.  The  house  [now  a  shop)  of  this 
eminent  philanthropist  on  bOOl.  a  year  is  in  the  market-place  and 
is  marked  by  his  bust.  Opposite  is  the  Town  Hall,  a  quaint  little 
building,  supported  by  pillars  of  red  sandstone.  A  lovely  view  of  the 
Wye  is  obtained  from  the  Prospect  Walk,  adjoining  the  churchyard. 


*Valley  of  the  Wye.  Ross  is  the  starting-point  for  a  visit  to 
the  Lower  Wye,  the  'devious  Vaga  of  the  poet,  which  presents 
some  of  the  finest  river-scenery  in  the  country.  The  river  also  flows 
past  Tintern  Abbey,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  England's  ecclesias- 
tical ruins,  while  Raglan,  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  English 
castles,  is  within  easy  reach  of  its  banks.  The  Wye  flows  to  the  S. 
from  Ross,  passing  Monmouth,  and  joins  the  Severn  near  Chepstow 
(p.  177),  which  is  27  M.  distant  as  the  crow  flies,  but  about  40  M. 
by  the  windings  of  the  river. 

The  traveller  has  his  choice  of  road,  rail,  and  river;  the  last  route 
is  preferable,  and  it  may  be  combined  with  digressions  on  foot.  A  boat 
with  one  boatman  from  Ross  to  Goodrich  Castle  costs  6*.,  to  Symond"s 
Yat  10*.,  to  Monmouth  15«.,  to  Tintern  25*.,  to  Chepstow  30s.;  with  two 
men  about  one-half  more.  For  boats  apply  at  the  Hope  &  Anchor  Inn. 
Boats  may  also  be  hired  at  (IOV2  M.)  Monmouth.  Perhaps  the  best  plan 
is  to  go  by  boat  to  Tintern  and  to  walk  thence  to  (SV*  M-)  Chepstow,  as 
the  lower  (tidal)  part  of  the  Wye,  except  at  high  tide,  is  disfigured  by 
ugly  mudbanks.  This  walk  also  includes  the  Wyndclifif  (p.  177),  con- 
sidered the  finest  single  point  in  the  valley.  Those  who  have  only  one 
day  at  their  disposal  should  visit  Symonds  Yat  and  Tintern  by  rail,  and 
walk  from  the  latter  to  Chepstow  by  the  Wyndcliflf.  Monmouth  is  the 
best  stopping-place  for  those  who  devote  two  days  to  the  trip.  The  rail- 
way skirts  the  river  nearly  the  whole  way,  and  most  of  the  stations  are 
close  to   its  banks.     The   times  and   fares 'from  Ross  are  as  follows:   to 


Sl<Llute  Miles 


to  Hereford.  MONMOUTH.  ^3.  Route,    175 

(71/2  M.)  Symond't  Yat  in  25  min.  (fares  it.  Sd.,  lOcf.,  V^d.);  to  (13  M.) 
Monmouth  (Troy  Station)  in  35  min.  (2s.  2d.,  it.  5d.,  is.  id.};  to  (22  M.) 
Tintem  in  1  hr.  (3«.  8d. ,  2*.  4d.,  is.  10(i.);  to  (271/2  M.)  Chepttow  in 
1V2-1V«  lir.  (4«.  6c;.,  Si.,  2*.  3^/2d.).  In  aummer  day -excursion  tickets 
are  issued  at  lower  fares.  Like  the  Severn,  the  Wye  is  famed  for  its 
salmon  ('there  is  salmons  in  both'),  and  the  fishery  brings  in  a  yearly  rental 
of  20,000/.  The  lower  Wye  forms  the  boundary  between  Gloucestershire 
and  Monmouthshire.  The  'coracle',  a  primitive  British  boat  made  of  hides 
or  tarred  canvas  stretched  over  a  frame  of  timber  or  wicker-work,  may 
still  be  seen  on  the  Wye;  and  Gilpin  ('The  Wye  Tour')  tells  of  an  ad- 
venturous boatman  who  went  from  the  Wye  to  Lundy  (p.  159)  and  back 
in  one  of  these  frail  craft. 

Leaving  Ross  by  boat  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  Wilton  Castle 
(12-16th  cent.),  on  the  right  bank,  and  beyond  it  we  pass  under 
Wilton  Bridge.  Wilton  Castle  at  one  time  belonged  to  Thomas 
Guy,  who  bequeathed  it  to  the  London  hospital  that  bears  his  name. 
About  41/2  M.  farther  on,  on  the  same  bank,  are  Goodrich  Court, 
a  modern  imitation  of  a  mediaeval  mansion,  and  *Goodrich  Castle, 
a  fine  ruin  dating  partly  from  the  12th  cent.  (adm.  6d.).  It  was  at 
Goodrich  Castle  (in  1793)  that  Wordsworth  met  the  little  heroine 
of  'We  are  Seven'.  Below  Goodrich  we  pass  under  (1  M.)  Kerne 
Bridge  (rail.  stat. ;  Inn) ,  beyond  which  the  river  makes  an  im- 
mense loop,  and  the  scenery  becomes  more  varied.  To  the  E. 
lies  the  Forest  of  Dean  (p.  177).  At  the  end  of  the  loop ,  near 
(31/2  M.)  Lydbrook  (stat.;  Queen's  Head),  we  again  pass  under  the 
railway.  Farther  on,  at  (8/4  M.)  the  *Coldwell  Rocks,  the  Wye  doubles 
back  upon  itself,  flowing  towards  the  N.  for  21/2  M.  and  then 
returning  to  within  600  yds.  of  its  former  channel.  The  tourist  may 
leave  the  boat  to  navigate  this  bend,  while  he  ascends  *Symond's 
Yat  (650  ft.),  the  hill  at  the  neck  of  the  loop ,  commanding  an 
exquisite  view  of  rocks,  and  woods,  and  meadows,  not  unlike  the 
view  from  the  Marienburg  at  Alf,  on  the  Moselle.  Close  by  is 
Symond''s  Yat  Station  (Saracen's  Head;  Rocklea,  R.  &  A.  from  35.; 
Prospect  House  Temperance;  Symond's  Yat).  Boats  may  be  hired 
at  the  Rocklea  Hotel  for  excursions  to  Lady  Park  Cave  (adm.  6d.), 
etc.  Symond's  Yat  is  separated  from  the  Great  Doward  by  a  defile 
named  the  ''Slaughter,  and  both  hills  are  crowned  with  ancient  en- 
campments. The  river  then  flows  through  the  richiy-wooded  park 
of  the  Leys ,  and  the  valley  becomes  more  open.  Monmouth  is 
10'/2  M.  from  Ross  in  a  direct  line,  and  about  twice  as  far  by  the 
river.   The  road  misses  a  great  part  of  the  scenery. 

Monmouth.  (Beaufort  Arms;  King's  Head;  Bridge  Hotel;  Angel 
Hotel),  a  town  with  5470  inhab.,  which  Gray  calls  'the  delight  of 
the  eye  and  the  very  seat  of  pleasure',  is  beautifully  situated  on  a 
rising  ground  at  the  confluence  of  the  Monnoxc  and  the  Wye.  The 
old  Castle,  of  which  some  remains  still  exist,  was  the  birthplace 
of  Henry  V.  (1388-1422),  the  'Prince  Hal'  of  Shakespeare.  The 
room  in  which  he  was  born  is  still  pointed  out.  On  the  old  bridge 
crossing  the  Monnow  is  an  interestiiig  Gateway  of  the  13th  cent., 
adjoining  which  is  a  small  Norman  chapel.    The  romancing  chron- 


176    Route  23.  TINTE^N*  From  London 

icier  Geoffrey  of  Monmouth  (d.  1154)  was  l>orn  here,  and  a  build- 
ing (_of  much  later  date)  is  known  as  'Geoffrey's  Study'.  The  caps 
for  which  Monmouth  was  formerly  celebrated  ('wearing  leeks  in 
their  Monmouth  caps',  Henry  V.,  iv.  7),  are  no  longer  made  here. 

—  There  are  two  railway-stations  at  Monmouth :  May  Hill^  near 
the  bridge,  and  Monmouth  Troy,  to  the  S.  of  the  town.  Passengers 
for  Tintern  and  Chepstow  sometimes  have  to  change  carriages  at 
the  latter,  the  train  going  on  to  Raglan,  Usk,  and  Pontypool  Road 
(see  below). 

The  -View  from  (2^/2  M.)  Kymin  Hill  (700  ft.  above  tbe  river ;  ascent 

1  hr.),  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Wye,  is  very  extensive  and  beautiful. 
About  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  this  hill  is  the  Buclstone,  a  rocking-stone,  or 
'Logan  Stone'  ('View). 

Jlonmouth  is  a  good  centre  for  numerous  charming  excursions ,  and 
the  tourist  is  advised  to  interrupt  his  descent  of  the  Wye  long  enough 
at  least  for  a  visit  to  Raglan  (Beaufort  Arms),  7  M.  to  the  S.W. ;  railway 
(G.  W.  R.)  in  1/4  hr.;  fares  I5.  2d.,  dd.,  Id.  'Raglan  Castle  (adm.  6rf.), 
now  a  picturesque  ruin,  was  built  in  the  14-15th  cent.,  and  in  1646  was 
gallantly  defended  against  the  Parliamentarians  for  10  weeks  by  the 
Marquis  of  Worcester,  then  in  his  84th  year.  It  was  the  last  fortress  to 
hold  out  for  the  king.  The  second  marquis,  the  son  of  the  heroic  royalist, 
is  distinguished  for  having  invented  and  constructed  the  first  steam- 
engine,  which  was  set  up  at  Raglan  as  a  pumping  engine.  Lord  Raglan, 
the  British  commander  in  the  Crimean  War,  took  his  title  from  this  spot. 

—  Beyond  Raglan  the  train  goes  on  to  (12  M.)  TJsk  (Three  Salmons),  an 
ancient  place  with  an  old  church  and  castle  and  a  noted  salmon-fishery, 
and  (18  M.)  Pontypool  Road  (p.  193).  —  Other  interesting  places  near  Mon- 
mouth are  (8  M.)  Skenfrith  Castle,  (131/2  M.)  Grosmont  Castle,  and  (91/2  M.) 
White  Castle. 

Below  Monmouth  the  valley  of  the  Wye  soon  again  contracts,  and 
is  enclosed  by  steep  wooded  hills.  The  railway  from  Monmouth  to 
Chepstow  skirts  the  river  nearly  the  whole  way.   On  the  right  bank, 

2  M.  from  Monmouth,  lies  Pennalt ,  near  which  is  Troy  House, 
a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort.  On  the  opposite  bank  are  various 
traces  of  the  industries  carried  on  in  the  Forest  of  Dean.  At  (4  M.) 
Bigsweir  we  reach  the  highest  point  where  the  flow  of  the  tide  is 
perceptible.  About  2  M.  to  the  E.  is  St.  Brlavels  (p.  178).  The 
train  next  passes  (3^/2  M.)  Tintern  Parva  and  Tintern  Station,  both 
on  the  right,  and  after  rounding  another  loop  reaches  (IV2  ^^O  the 
ivy-clad  *Tinterii  Abbey,  one  of  the  most  romantic  ruins  in  Eng- 
land, lying  in  a  green  meadow  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Wye 
(adm.  6d.). 

The  abbey  was  founded  by  Cistercian  monks  in  1131,  but  the  church, 
the  chief  feature  of  the  ruins,  dates  from  the  end  of  the  following  cen- 
tury. The  building,  which  is  228  ft.  long,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Dec. 
Gothic.  The  roof  and  central  tower  are  gone,  but  the  rest  of  the  struc- 
ture is  still  well  preserved.  The  window-tracery  and  other  decorations 
are  very  beautiful.  The  secular  buildings  are  much  smaller  and  less  im- 
portant than  those  of  Fountains  Abbey  (p.  431).  The  village  of  Tintern 
(Beaufort  Arms,  R.  (feA.  4s.,  sometimes  over-crowded  in  summer;  George; 
Rose  &  Crown)  is  close  to  the  abbey.  The  railway-station  (see  above)  is 
1  M.  distant  by  road. 

The  river -scenery  between  Tintern  and  (7  M.)  Chepstow  is 
very  charming,  though  it  loses  much  of  its  attraction  at  low  tide 


to  Hereford.  CHEPSTOW.  23.  Route.     177 

(see  p.  174).  We  skirt  the  "base  of  the  wooded  Wyndcliff  (see 
below),  and  farther  on  pass  the  fine  rocks  known  as  the  *Twelve 
Apostles  (to  the  right).  As  we  approach  Chepstow  we  have  a  good 
view  of  the  castle. 

As,  however,  the  Wyndcliff  is  one  of  the  points  that  no 
visitor  to  the  AVye  should  miss ,  many  will  prefer  to  walk  from 
Tintern  to  (5V4  M- )  Chepstow.  We  follow  the  road  leading  to 
the  S.  from  the  Abbey  to  (21/4  M.)  the  'Moss  Cottage',  and  pass 
through  the  cottage  (fee  Gt/.)  to  a  winding  path  which  ascends,  partly 
in  steps,  to  the  top  of  the  *  Wyndcliff  (900  ft.).  At  the  top  we  turn 
to  the  right  and  descend  a  little  to  reach  the  small  out-look  plat- 
form, which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  of  river-scenery  in 
Europe,  remarkable  for  the  beauty  and  variety  of  its  foliage.  The 
Severn  is  seen  in  the  distance.  In  descending  we  do  not  return  to 
the  Moss  Cottage,  but  keep  to  the  S.  (left)  at  the  point  on  the 
summit  where  we  turned  to  the  right,  and  regain  the  road  at  a  point 
1/3  M.  nearer  Chepstow.  After  1/9  M.  more  we  turn  to  the  left,  and 
then  follow  the  main  road  to  (2Y4  M.)  Chepstow.  On  a  Tuesday, 
however,  we  may  walk  through  *Piercefield  Park,  from  near  the 
point  where  we  regain  the  road  to  within  3/^  M.  of  Chepstow. 

In  summer  a  coach  plies  daily  between  Tintern  Abbey  and  Cliepstow 
(fares  I5.  Gd.,  return  2s.  Qd.),  starting  from  the  latter  about  11  a.m. 

Chepstow  (*Beaufort  Arms,  R.  &  A.  4s. ;  George),  a  town  with 
3380  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Wye, 
which  is  here  crossed  by  two  bridges,  21/2  M«  above  its  junction  with 
the  Severn.  It  is  a  station  on  the  S.  Wales  line  from  Gloucester  to 
Cardiff  (see  p.  193).  *Chepstow  Castle  (adm.  6d.),  on  a  height  com- 
manding the  river,  dates  mainly  from  the  13-l4th  cent,  and  is  an 
extensive  and  interesting  ruin,  enclosing  four  courts.  The  third 
court,  known  as  the  Chapel,  seems  to  have  been  the  original  Nor- 
man keep.  Mart'ms  Tower  was  for  20  years  the  prison  of  the  regi- 
cide of  that  name  (d.  1680;  buried  in  the  church),  and  Jeremy 
Taylor  was  also  confined  here  in  1656.  A  good  view  of  the  castle 
is  obtained  from  the  bridge.  The  Church  of  St.  Mary ,  near  the 
bridge,  has  a  Norman  nave  and  a  fine  Norman  W.  doorway.  Some 
parts  of  the  town-walls  and  an  old  gateway  are  still  in  situ. 

From  Cliepstow  an  excursion  may  be  made  to  Caldicot  Castle  (adm. 
on  previous  written  application),  5V-''M.  to  the  S.W.,  and  to  CaerwenI,  a 
Roman  camp  (Venia  Silurum),  i^j-z  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  castle.  Freeman 
descrilies  Caldicot  as  surpassing  in  masonry  and  details  every  military 
buildin-j;  he  had  seen,  being  fully  equal  to  the  best  ecclesiastical  work. 

The  Forest  of  Dean,  the  triangular  district  between  the  Wye  and  the 
Severn,  as  far  N.  as  a  line  drawn  from  Koss  to  Gloucester,  was  formerly 
a  royal  domain  like  the  New  Forest  (see  p.  S2);  and  the  crown  land  still 
amounts  to  about  25,C(X)  acres.  It  is  now  in  great  part  a  liusy  mining  dis- 
trict, producing  large  quantities  of  coal  and  iron;  but  there  are  also  exten- 
sive tracts  of  picturesque  woodland,  whicli  repay  exploration.  It  is  tra- 
versed from  X.  to  S.  by  the  railway  from  /lerkeleu  Head  to  Lydhrook : 
and  visitors  may  conveniently  alight  at  Speech  House  Station  and  make 
the  Speech  House  Inn  (well  spoken  of)  their  headquarters.  The  Speech 
House  contains   the    Verderers'    Court   (comp.   p.  83).     The   trees   of  the 

Baedekek's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  1*2 


178     Route  23.  -HEREFORD. 

Forest  are  chiefly  oaks  and  beeches.  Among  the  pleasantest  points  are 
the  Holly  Wood.,  close  to  the  Speech  House;  the  High  Beeches,  2  M.  to  the 
N.W. ;  the  Spruce  Drive  and  Danhy  Beeches.  31/2' M.  to  the  S.E.  •,  the 
Great  Oak,  4  M.  to  the  W.;  Pleasant  Stile,  Langham  Place,  the  Ruardean 
Hill  (855  ft.),  the  highest  point  in  the  Forest,  and  St.  Briavels  (p.  176), 
with  a  ruined  castle  and  an  interesting  church.  Visitors  interested  will 
easily  find  an  opportunity  of  inspecting  a  colliery  or  an  iron-mine. 


Beyond  Ross  the  Hereford  line  passes  several  country-seats.  Sta- 
tions Faivley  and  Holme  Lacy.  The  grounds  of  Holme  Lacy  House 
(Earl  of  Chesterfield),  a  large  red  mansion  to  the  right,  are  open  to  the 
puhlicin  summer;  the  fine  gardens  on  Tues.  forenoon.  The  Wye  is 
crossed  several  times. 

144  M.  Hereford  (*Green  Dragon;  City  Arms,  commercial; 
Mitre,  R.  &A.  3s.  9d.,  these  three  in  Broad  St. ;  Greyhound,  Merton, 
unpretending ;  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms),  an  episcopal  city  with 
20,267  inhah.,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Wye,  is 
of  very  ancient  origin.  It  was  at  one  time  strongly  fortified,  and 
remains  of  the  old  walls  are  still  traceable.  The  see  dates  from  673, 
when  it  was  detached  from  that  of  Lichfield.  The  Castle,  built  to 
hold  the  Welsh  in  check,  and  described  by  Leland  as  'one  of  the 
fayrest,  largest,  and  strongest  castles  in  England',  has  almost  wholly 
disappeared;  but  its  name  survives  in  Castle  Green,  a  pleasant  prom- 
enade on  the  river  near  the  cathedral.  In  the  centre  of  the  Green, 
which  occupies  the  site  of  the  outer  ward  of  the  Castle,  is  a  Column 
to  the  memory  of  Lord  Nelson.  Hereford  carries  on  an  extensive 
trade  in  the  agricultural  produce  of  the  district.  The  cattle  and 
sheep  of  Herefordshire  are  highly  valued.  Hereford  was  the  birth- 
place of  David  Garrick  (1716-79)  and  Nell  Gwynne  (d.  1687). 

The  *Cathedkal  (SS.  Mary  ^^  Ethelbert),  the  fourth  church  on 
the  same  site,  begun  in  1079  on  the  destruction  of  its  predecessor 
by  the  Welsh  (1055)  ,  and  not  finished  tiU  1530,  naturally  shows 
an  interesting  mixture  of  architectural  styles.  The  nave,  S.  tran- 
sept, choir,  and  piers  of  the  tower  are  Norman ;  the  Lady  Chapel 
is  E.E.  (1226-46);  the  N.  transept  was  rebuilt  in  1250-88;  the  N. 
porch  was  erected  about  1290.  The  central  tower  dates  from  the 
14th,  and  the  cloisters  from  the  loth  century.  The  addition  of  the 
outer  N.  porch  (about  1530)  completed  the  building  as  it  now 
stands.  The  W.  facade  was  marred  at  the  end  of  last  century  during 
the  'renovation'  undertaken  by  Wyatt  (p.  99)  in  consequence  of 
the  fall  of  the  W.  tower  (1786),  but  the  whole  building  was  after- 
wards restored  with  success  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  (1856-63). 

The  daily  services  of  the  cathedral  are  held  at  10  a.m.  and 
4.30  p.m.  Visitors  are  requested  to  inscribe  their  names  in  a  book 
and  contribute  6d.  to  the  building-expenses.  The  usual  entrance 
is  by  the  ^North  Porch,  the  outer  portion  of  which  is  Perp.  and  the 
inner  E.E.  (see  above).  The  principal  dimensions  of  the  Cathe- 
dral are:  length  342  ft.,  breadth  of  nave  and  aisles  73  ft.,  length 
of  transepts  146  ft.,  height  64  ft. 


HEREFORD.  23.  Route.    179 

Interior.  The  first  thing  to  strike  the  visitor  on  entering  the  Xave 
is  the  contrast  presented  by  its  severe  and  massive  piers  and  arches  to 
the  Dec.  features  of  the  exterior.  The  arches  are  adorned  with  chevron 
mouldings.  The  clerestory  and  triforium  are  poor,  dating  only  from  the 
restoration  of  last  cent,  (see  p.  lT8j,  and  the  unsuitable  ornamentation 
of  the  ceiling  is  also  modern.  The  oak  pulpit  is  .Jacobean.  Among  the 
monuments  in  this  part  of  the  church  are  those  of  Bishop  Booth  (1516-35), 
in  the  N.  aisle,  and  Sir  Richard  I'embridge  (d.  1375),  in  the  S.  aisle.  Near 
the  latter  is  the  Norman  Font,  of  the  12th  century.  —  The  N.W.  Transept, 
perhaps  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  edifice,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
Early  Dec.  style,  with  tall,  narrow  windows,  arches  of  unusual  form, 
and  elaborate  diaper  ornamentation.  The  modern  stained-glass  window  in 
memory  of  Archdeacon  Freer,  by  Hardman^  is  very  rich.  The  transept 
contains  numerous  monuments,  of  which  the  most  interesting  are  those  of 
Bishops  Peter  de  Aquahlanca  (1240-68)  and  "Thomas  de  Cantilupe  (1275-82; 
the  last  Englishman  canonized  before  the  Reformation).  The  exterior  of 
this  transept  should  also  be  examined.  —  The  S.W.  Traxsept  is  Norman, 
with  later  alterations,  and  some  authorities  believe  it  contains  part  of  the 
oldest  work  in  the  building.  On  its  W.  side  is  a  curious  old  lireplace, 
an  unusual  feature  in  a  church.  Its  E.  aisle,  now  used  as  a  Vestry^  con- 
tains a  glass-case,  with  various  interesting  objects,  including  the  'Here- 
ford Use'  of  about  1270.  —  Above  the  crossing  rises  the  Great  Central 
Tower  (165  ft.),  the  curious  work  in  the  lantern  of  which  resembles  a 
large  cage  with  bars  of  stone.  The  *Choir  is  separated  from  the  nave 
by  an  elaborate  Metal  Screen^  executed  by  Skidmore  from  a  design  by 
Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  and  there  are  also  good  metal  gates  at  the  ends  of  the 
choir-aisles.  The  main  arches  and  triforium  of  the  choir  are  Norman,  the 
clerestory  E.  E.  The  E.  extremity  was  rebuilt  in  the  present  century. 
The  Episcopal  Throne  and  the  Stalls  date  from  the  14th  cent.;  Xhe  Altar, 
Sedilia,  Reredos,  Stained  Glass  Windows,  and  Tiled  Pavement  are  modern. 
To  the  left  of  the  altar  is  an  interesting  old  Bishop's  Chair,  dating  from 
the  11th  century.  Opening  off  the  N.  choir-aisle  is  Bishop  Sfanburi/'s 
Chantry,  a  small  chapel  of  the  end  of  the  15th  century.  To  the  W.  of 
it  is  a  door  leading  into  the  Cathedral  Library ,  which  was  formerly  ac- 
cessible only  by  the  gangway  across  the  large  window  in  the  N.W. 
transept  (see  above).  The  library  contains  many  volumes  of  great  interest 
and  value,  nearly  all  of  which  are  chained  to  the  shelves.  In  the  S. 
choir-aisle  the  famous  ^Hereford  Mappa  Mundi,  a  quaint  map  of  the  world 
executed  at  the  end  of  the  18th  cent.,  is  hung  in  its  original  frame, 
protected  by  modern  doors  of  oak.  Both  aisles  contain  the  monuments 
of  several  bishops.  —  The  choir  ends  at  the  E.  Transepts,  which  date  in 
their  present  form  mainly  from  the  14th  century.  From  the  S.E.  transept 
a  passage  called  the  Vicars'  Cloister,  with  a  carved  wooden  roof,  leads 
to  the  Vicars'  College  (see  below). 

The  easternmost  arm  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Ladt  Chapel,  a  good 
example  of  E.E.,  containing,  among  others,  the  fine  tomb  of  Baron  de 
Grandison  (d.  1358).  On  the  S.  side,  behind  a  lofty  stone  screen,  is  the 
Chantry  of  Bishop  Audley  (1492-1502),  who,  however,  is  buried  in  the 
chantry  he  built  at  Salisbury  after  his  translation  to  that  see  (p.  99).  A 
door  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Lady  Chapel  leads  to  the  Crypt,  said  to 
be  the  only  one  in  England  of  later  date  than  the  11th  century.  —  The 
Cloisters  (15th  cent.)  are  entered  from  the  S.  side  of  the  nave.  In  the 
E.  walk  is  the  doorway  of  the  old  Chapter  House,  of  which  little  else 
remains.  The  tower  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  cloisters  is  traditionally 
known  as  the  'Ladye  Arbour'. 

The  College  of  Vicars  Choral,  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral,  is  in  the 
Perp.  style  (1476-1500).  The  Episcopal  Palace,  between  the  cathe- 
dral and  the  river,  contains  a  Norman  hall.  The  Cathedral  Orammar 
f^chool,  to  the  E.  of  the  Cathedral,  was  founded  in  the  14th  cent. 

After  the  cathedral  the  most  interesting  building  is  probably 
the  so-named  *Old  House,  in  the  square  called  the  High  Town,   a 

12* 


180    Route  -23.  HEREFORD. 

picturesque  example  of  a  half-timlDered  dwelling  (IGth  or  early 
ITtli  cent.),  now  used  as  a  bank.  In  St.  Peter's  Sq.,  a  little  to  theE., 
is  St.  Peter  s  Church,  containing  14  oaken  stalls  of  the  15tli  century. 
The  Church  of  All  Saints,  in  High  St.,  to  the  W.,  contains  similar 
stalls  of  somewhat  later  date.    Both  churches  have  lofty  spires. 

From  High  Town  (see  p.  179)  Widemarsh  St.  leads  to  the  N.  to 
(1/3  M. )  Coningsby  Hospital,  a  neat  little  building  (1614)  for  old 
soldiers  and  servants,  on  the  site  of  a  commandery  of  the  Knights 
Templar ,  of  which  a  Norman  archway  still  remains.  It  is  also 
known  as  the  Black  Cross  Hospital,  from  the  ruins  of  a  priory  of 
Black  Friars  in  the  garden.  The  most  striking  of  these  relics  is 
the  *Preaching  Cross.  Opposite  the  Shire  Hall  is  a  Statue  of  Sir 
George  Comeicall  Lewis  (1806-63),  M.P.  for  Herefordshire,  1847-52. 
—  Another  walk  may  be  taken  westwards  from  High  Town  through 
High  St.  and  Eign  St.,  across  the  railway  bridge,  and  along  White- 
cross  St.  and  Whitecross  Road  to  (I74M.)  the  White  Cross,  erected 
in  the  14th  cent,  to  commemorate  the  cessation  of  the  Black  Death 
(1349).  To  the  left,  about  200yds.  from  the  road,  are  the  Kennels 
of  the  North  Herefordshire  Hunt.  —  A  good  view  is  obtained  from 
the  Town  Waterworks,  1  M.  to  the  S.W.,  reached  from  High  St.  by 
Broad  St.,  King  St.,  Nicholas  St.,  Barton  St.,  and  Broomy  Hill.  — 
The  Museum,  in  Broad  St.,  contains  local  antiquities,  fossils,  and 
birds.  —  There  are  two  railway-stations  at  Hereford:  the  Barr's 
Court  Station  of  the  G.W.  and  L.N.W.  railways,  on  the  N.E.  side  of 
the  town,  and  the  Barton  Station  of  the  Midland  Railway,  adjoining 
the  above-mentioned  bridge. 

Hereford  is  a  fairly  good  centre  for  excursions ,  of  which  those  up 
and  down  the  Wz/e  are  the  tirst  to  suggest  themselves.  In  both  directions 
the  pedestrian  or  cyclist  will  meet  with  much  characteristic  English  river- 
scenery,  and  numerous  small  but  comfortable  inns  make  it  a  comparatively 
easy  matter  to  extend  the  walk  in  the  one  direction  to  Ross,  Monmouth, 
or  Chepstow  (comp.  p.  174  et  seq.),  or  in  the  other  to  Hay,  Builth,  or 
E^hayader  (comp.  p.  205).  —  Among  other  places  of  interest  within  the 
compass  of  a  days  excursion  are  Leominster  (see  below);  Malvern  (p.  190); 
the  Black  Mis.  (p".  192);  Dinedor  Hill,  a  Roman  camp  3  M.  to  the  S.  (view); 
Holme  L'.cy,  4  M.  to  the  S.E.  (p.  178);  Ellpeck  Church,  71/2  M.  to  the  S.W., 
with  grotesque  Xorman  sculptures  (see  p.  1^2);  St.  EthelberVs  Camp,  6  M.  to 
the  E.;  and  Tewkesbury  (p.  183). 

From  Herefoed  to  Shrewsbury,  51  M.,  railway  in  1^/2-21/3  hrs.  (8s. 
6d. ,  bs.  id.,  is.  Sc/.).  —  The  train  traverses  rich  pasture-land,  pen- 
etrates Dinmove  Hill,  'a  specula  to  see  all  the  country  about"  (Leland),  by 
a  tunnel  (3/4  M.),  and  passes  several  unimportant  stations.  —  13  M.  Leo- 
minster, pronounced  ZeOT5<er  (Royal  Oak;  Talbot;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms), 
an  ancient  town  with  567oinhab.,  derives  its  name  from  a  priory  founded 
here  in  the  7th  century.  The  -Church  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  (restored 
18(3(3-91),  one  of  the  finest  parish-churches  in  the  country,  exhibits  features 
of  all  the  principal  architectural  styles  from  Norman  to  Perpendicular.  It 
contains  an  ancient  ducking-stool.  Other  interesting  buildings  are  the  Clarke 
Alms  Houses  (1736  ;  rebuilt  1874)  and  the  former  Market  House  (1634),  removed 
in  1853  from  the  middle  of  the  town  to  the  pleasure-grounds  known  as 
The  Grange.  A  branch-line  runs  hence  to  A'ew  Radnor  and  Presteign.  — 
From  (18  M.)  Woofferton  (Refreshmt.  Rooms),  where  we  enter  the  valley 
of  the  Teme,  a  branch-line  runs  to  the  E.  to  Teiibury,  Bewdley  (p.  187), 
and  Kidderminster  (p.  263).    To  the  risht  rises  Titterstone  Clee  (1780  ft.). 


LUDLOW.  23.  Route.    181 

23  M.  Ludlow  (Feathers;  Angel),  a  very  interesting  town  with  4460  in- 
hab.  and  many  fine  old  wooden  houses,  is  prettily  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Teme  and  the  Corve.  It  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Lords 
President  of  Wales.  who«e  "'Castle,  still  magniticent  in  decay  (adm.  Qd.), 
was  built  in  the  12th  century.  Milton  here  wrote  his  ^C<miiis\  to  celebrate 
the  appointment  of  the  Karl  of  Bridiiewater  to  the  office  of  Lord  Marcher; 
and  a  great  part  of  Butler's  '•IJudihras'  was  also  written  within  its  walls. 
The  hall  in  which  'Comus"  was  'presented'  in  1634  is  still  in  situ,  and 
there  are  remains  of  a  circular  Xorman  chapel.  The  'Collegiate  Church 
of  St.  Lawrence,  the  stately  Perp.  tower  of  which  is  conspicuous  from  the 
railway  (to  the  left),  contains  good  stained  glass  and  many  interesting  mon- 
uments. At  one  end  of  Broad  St.  is  the  Butter  Cress  and  at  the  other  is  the 
Lynney  Gate,  one  of  the  seven  original  town-gates.  Xear  the  castle  is  a 
Museum,  with  an  extensive  collection  of  Silurian  fossils.  —  Pleasant  ex- 
cursions may  be  made  from  Ludlow  to  the  Vignals  (4  M. ;  view),  Bringe- 
loood  Chase  (3  M.  \  view),  Hay  Wood,  Doicnton  Castle,  Wigmore  Castle, 
Staunton  Lacey  (with  a  pre-Norman  church;  2'/2  M.  to  the  N.),  etc. 

31  M.  Craven  Arms  (Craven  Arms;  Bail.  Refreshmt. Rooms)  is  the  junc- 
tion for  the  Central  Wales  Raihcay  to  Llandrindod,  Swansea,  Carmarthen, 
and  Pembroke.  To  the  X.E.  (ritiht)  another  branch  runs  to  (18  M.)  Much 
Wenlock,  (22  M.)  Coalbrookdale,  and  (28  M.)  Wellington  (p.  265).  Much 
Wenlock  (Gaskell  Arms;  Raven)  is  a  small  town  with  the  fine  ruins  of  a 
Cluniac  "Priory,  which  was  founded  in  1080  and  exhibits  an  interesting 
mixture  of  Xorman  and  Gothic  architecture.  A  third  branch  runs  to  the 
left  to  Bishop's  Castle.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Craven  Arms  is  ~Stokesay 
Castle  (13th  cent.),  surrounded  by  a  moat,  one  of  the  finest  castellated 
mansions  in  England. 

Farther  on,  the  line  runs  parallel  with  Wailing  Street.  To  the  right 
are  the  Streflon  Hills  (1675  ft,).  Beyond  (38  M.)  Church  Stretton  (Church 
Stretton  Hotel)  we  pass  three  unimportant  stations  and  reach  — 

51  M.   Shrewsbury,  see  p.  265. 

From  Hereford  to  Malvern  and  Worcester  and  to  Xewport  and  Cardiff.^ 
see  R.  25;  to  Brecon  and  Swansea,  see  R.  27. 


24.    From  Bristol  to  Gloucester,  Cheltenham,  Wor- 
cester, Birmingham,  and  Derby. 

MiDLAXD  Railway  (no  second  class)  to  (37i/2  M.)  Gloucester  in  3/4-I1/4  hr. 
(fares  5s.,  3s.  id.);  to  (431/2  M.)  Cheltenham  in  1-2  hrs.  (fares  5s.  lOrf.,  3s.7cf.); 
to  (G5V-'  M.)  Worcester  in  13/4-3  hrs.  (fares  8s.  %d.,  5s.  by-zd.);  to  (90i/2  31.) 
Birmingham  in  2V4-4V2  hrs.  (fares  12s.  id..  Is.  71/2^.);  to  (130  M.)  Derby  in 
31/4-43/4  hrs.  (fares  18s.,  10s.  IOV2C?.).  —  Travellers  by  this  line  may  also  book 
throuiih  to  Manchester  {b^JA-Q^I-z  hrs. ;  24s.  id.,  13s.  ~i'd.),  Liverpool  (5^  4-7  hrs. ; 
24s.  7"^.,  13s.  9t/.),  Edinburgh  (IIV4  hrs.;  56s.,  30s.  iO^-d.),  and  Glasgow 
(llV4hrs.;  56s.  Qd.,  SOs.  b^^d.). 

Bristol,  see  p.  114.  —  3  M.  Fish  Ponds;  3'V4  M.  Staple  Hill.  — 
At  (5  M.)  Manyotsfield  our  line  unites  with  that  from  Bath.  — 
101/4  M.  Yate,  6  M.  to  the  E.  (right)  of  which  lies  Badminton,  the 
large  house  and  park  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort. 

From  Yate  a  branch-line  diverges  to  (77-  M.)  Thornbury  (Swan),  with 
a  fine  cruciform  church  and  a  large  Tudor  castle,  built  by  the  Ihike  of 
Buckingham  in  1511,  but  never  finished. 

15  M.  Wickicar.  Near  (17  M.l  Charfield  lies  Tortwcrth  Court 
(Earl  of  Ducie),  the  park  of  which  contains  the  largest  chestnut-tree 
in  England  (50  ft.  in  circumference)  mentioned  in  a  document  of 
the  13th  century,  Charfield  is  the  station  for  Wotton-under-F.dge, 
2M.  to  the  E.  —  22V4M.  Berkeley  Road, 


182    Route  24.  CHELTENHAM.  From  Bristol 

A  branch-line  diverges  hence  for  (7  M.)  Lydney  (p.  193)  and  the  Dean 
Forest  (p.  177),  crossing  the  Severn  by  a  magnificent  bridge  at  Sharpness 
(p.  193).  The  first  station  on  this  branch  is  (2M.)  Berkeley  (Berkeley  Arms)^ 
a  small  town  with  5000  inhab.,  the  birthplace  of  Edward  Jenner  (1749- 
1823),  the  discoverer  of  vaccination.  'Berkeley  Castle  is  an  ancient  baronial 
castle,  with  a  moat  and  keep,  still  occupied  as  a  dwelling  (Lord  Fitzhar- 
dinge  ;  open  on  Tues.  and  Frid.,  2-4).  It  contains  some  portraits  of  the 
Berkeley  family,  the  cabin  furniture  of  Admiral  Drake,  and  other  interest- 
ing relics.    It  was  in  this  castle  that  Edward  II.  was  murdered  in  1327. 

24  M.  Coaly  Junction  is  the  station  for  Dursley  (Old  Bell),  a 
wool-manufacturing  town,  with  a  Dec.  churcli.  —  27  M.  Frocester 
(p.  Ivi) ;  2872  ^I-  Stonehouse,  ju;iction  for  Nailsworth  and  Stroud, 
has  another  station,  about  1  M.  distant,  on  the  G.W.R.  (seep.  170). 

371/2  M.  Gloucester  (Midland  Station ;  Rfmt.  Rooms),  see  p.  170. 
—  Beyond  Gloucester,  the  cathedral  tower  of  which  is  well  seen  to 
the  left,  we  pass  Churchdown  and  soon  reach  — 

4372  M.  Cheltenliaill.  —  Hotels.  *Qceex"s,  in  the  Promenade; 
*Plodgh,  High  St.,  an  old  and  very  comfortable  house,  with  the  largest 
stable-yard  in  England,  R.  d;  A.  4s.,  D.  45.;  Rotal;  Fleece,  commercial; 
Bellevue,  Laxsdown,  private  hotels. 

Restaurants.  George's,  Ilish  St. ;  Lock's,  Clarence  St. :  Caf6  Continental. 
High  St. 

Cabs.  For  1  pers.  is.  per  mile,  2  pers.  Is.  6d.,  3  or  more  pers.  2s.; 
for  each  addit.  1/2  M.  6d.  —  Omnibuses  ply  from  the  railway -stations 
into  the  town,  and  the  hotels  send  omnibuses  to  meet  the  principal  trains. 

Coach  daily  in  summer  to  (16  M.)  Broadioay  (p.  188). 

Railway  Stations.  Great  Western  Station,  Si.  ia,Ta.&aSi(\.,  for  Gloucester, 
London  (3V2-43/4  hrs. ;  fares  19s.,  12s.,  9s.  6rf.),  Oxford,  etc.;  Midland  Rail- 
way Station,  Queen's  Road,  for  Gloucester,  Bristol,  Birmingham,  and  the 
North. 

Opera  House  and  Theatre,  Re.;ent  St.  —  Assembly  Rooms,  High  St., 
for  balls,  concerts,  etc.  Visitors  apply  to  the  Committee.  —  Music.  The  Town 
Band  performs  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  in  the  Montpellier  Gardens 
and  other  parts  of  the  town. 

Cheltenham ,  a  frequented  and  well-built  inland  watering- 
place  with  about  50,000  inhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Chtlt, 
in  a  fertile  plain,  bounded  on  the  S.  E.  by  the  Cotswold  Hills.  Its 
springs  were  discovered  in  1716,  but  it  was  not  till  after  the  visit 
of  George  Hi.  in  1788  that  it  became  a  fashionable  resort.  The 
waters  are  chalybeate  and  saline,  and  are  considered  efficacious  for 
dyspepsia  and  affections  of  the  liver.  The  Pump  Room  is  in  the 
Pittville  Gardens,  a  large  recreation-ground  to  the  N.  of  the  High 
St.,  and  there  is  also  a  spa  in  the  Montpellier  Gardens.  Among  the 
residents  are  numerous  retired  civil  servants  and  officers,  while  in 
winter  the  town  is  crowded  with  fox-hunters.  Anglo-Indians  form 
so  large  a  part  of  its  society,  that  the  town  has  been  called  'Asia 
Minor'.  The  Cricket  Week,  held  in  August  in  the  College  Grounds, 
is  a  source  of  attraction  to  many  visitors.  Cheltenham  is  a  renowned 
educational  centre,  and  its  College,  in  the  Bath  Road,  ranks  high 
among  the  public  schools  of  England  (600  pupils).  It  possesses  a 
Museum,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  on  application.  There  is 
also  a  Ladies'  College,  attended  by  upwards  of  800  pupils. 

The  principal  business-street  of  the  town  is  the  High  Street, 


to  Derby.  TEWKESBURY.  24.  Route.    183 

nearly  2  M.  long,  which  intersects  it  from  E.  to  W.  The  Prom»n- 
ade,  a  shady  avenue  leading  to  the  S.  from  the  High  St.,  con- 
tains a  large  Winter  Garden,  and  is  adjoined  hy  the  MontpeUier 
Gardens,  with  the  MontpeUier  Rotunda,  used  in  winter  for  balls  an. I 
concerts.  —  The  parish-church  of  St.  Mary  was  erected  in  the  12- 
15th  cent,  and  has  been  restored.  It  possesses  a  fine  rose-window 
and  a  finely  groined  N.  porch,  and  contains  a  brass  of  the  Greville 
family.  In  the  churchyard  is  a  cross  of  the  15th  cent,  (restored).  — 
Among  modern  buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  Public  Library 
and  School  of  Art,  near  the  G.  W.  R.  station,  and  the  Grammar 
School,  in  the  High  Street. 

The  environs  of  Cheltenham,  including  the  Cotswold  Hills,  afford  many 
pleasant  excursions.  Among  the  places  most  visited  are  Leckhampton  Hill 
(980  ft.;  view),  2  M,  to  the  S.;  Birdlip  (view)  and  beyond  it  Cranham 
Woods,  6  M.  to  the  S.;  Charlton  Kings,  IV2  M.  to  the  E.-,  Sovtham  de  la 
Bere,  a  manor-house  of  the  15th  cent.,  2^/2  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  on  the  road 
to  Evesham;  Postlip  Manor  House,  and  Norman  Chapel,  5  M.  to  the  N.E. ; 
Winchcomhe  (fine  church)  and  'Stcdelei/  Castle  (with  the  grave  of  Katherine 
Parr),  4V2  M.  beyond  Southam ;  Andovevsford  (Frog  Mill  Inn),  7  M.  to 
the  E.,  on  the  line  to  Chipping  Norton  (p.  188);  the  Seven  Springs,  another 
claimant  to  be  the  source  of  the  Thames  (comp.  p.  170),  3'/2  to  the  S.;  and 
the  Roman  Villa  at  Chedworth,  9  M.  to  the  S.  E.  —  Railway-excursions 
mav  be  made  to  Berkeley  Castle  (p.  182),  Teickeshury  (see  below),  Qloucester 
(p.  170),  Evesham  (p.  188),  and  Worcester  (p.  184). 

Beyond  Cheltenham  the  train  next  reaches  (47  M.)  Cleeve,  the 
station  for  Bishop's  Cleeve,  3  M.  to  the  N.  E.  The  fine  *Church  has 
a  Norman  W.  front  and  a  Transition  porch,  with  good  stone  groining. 
—  51  M.  Ashchurch  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (2  M.)  Tewkesbury 
(see  below)  and  (13  M.)  Malvern  (p.  190),  and  of  another  to  Eves- 
ham (p.  188)  and  Sirat ford-on- Avon  (see  p.  248). 

Tewkesbury  (Swan;  Hop-Pole;  Bell),  the  Etocessa  of  the  Romans  and 
Theocshyrig  of  the  Saxons,  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  6269  inhab.,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Severn  and  Avon,  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of 
its  noble  abbey-church.  It  is  no  longer  famous  for  its  mustard  as  in  the 
days  when  Falstaff  averred  that  Poins'g  wit  was  'as  thick  as  Tewkesbury 
mustard'  {Henry  IV.,  Part  II.  11.  4).  Tewkesbury  Abbey  was  founded  in 
715,  and  its  "Church,  dating  mainly  from  the  early  part  of  the  12th  cent., 
ranks  among  the  most  important  Norman  edifices  in  the  country.  It  has 
been  restored  and  is  still  used.  [Visitors  are  admitted  from  9.30  a.  m. 
till  dusk  or  6.30  p.m.,  and  are  expected  to  contribute  6rf.  towards  the 
Restoration  Fund;  adm.  to  the  roof,  triforium ,  or  tower  6(/.  extra  for 
1  pers.,  3d.  each  for  a  party.]  The  hexagonal  choir,  with  its  radiating 
chapels,  is  in  the  Dec.  style;  and  many  of  the  windows,  chantries, 
vaults,  and  other  details  are  either  Dec.  or  Perpendicular.  The  chief 
features  of  the  exterior  are  the  massive  Norman  Tower  (132  ft.  high), 
an  E.  E.  chapel  on  the  E.  side  of  the  N.  transept,  the  chevet  of  chapels 
at  the  E.  end,  and  the  curious  recessed  Porch  and  Windoto  of  the  W. 
facade,  the  composition  of  which  is  probably  unique.  The  interior,  both 
of  nave  and  choir,  is  very  impressive.  The  vaulting  of  the  nave  has 
been  coloured  by  Mr.  Gambler  Parry  (p.  173),  who  has  been  much  more 
successful  than  the  decorators  of  the  ceiling  of  the  choir.  The  handsome 
tiled  flooring  of  the  choir  is  copied  from  ancient  patterns  found  diiring 
the  restoration.  Among  the  most  important  of  the  numerous  interesting 
monuments  are  the  ''Despensev  Tomb  (14th  cent.),  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
choir;  the  Founder's  Chapel,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  choir,  erected  over  the 
tomb  of  Robert  Fitz-Hamon  (d.  1107),  the  builder  of  the  original  Norman 


184    Route  '2 J.  WORCESTER.  From  Bristol 

church;  the  brass  below  the  central  tower,  marking  the  supposed  grave 
of  Prince  Edtcard  of  Wales^  killed  at  the  battle  of  Tewkesbury  (see  be- 
low); the  ''Warwiclc  Chapel,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  choir,  erected  by  Isabel 
Despenser  about  1425;  and  the  tombs  of  numerous  Ahhots.  The  stained 
irlass  in  the  choir  dates  mainly  from  the  14th  century.  The  remains  of 
the  secular  buildings  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  Oate  Hovse.^  com- 
paratively uninteresting.  The  town  contains  numerous  timber  houses  of 
the  16-lTth  centuries.  —  The  so-called  '■Bloody  Meadow\  1/2  M.  to  the 
S.  of  the  town,  was  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Tewkesbury  in  1471,  at 
which  the  Yorkists  gained  a  decisive  victory  (see  above). 

Tewkesbury  is  the  nearest  railway-station  to  Deerhurst,  situated  on 
the  Severn  (a  pleasant  trip  by  boat),  l^'ji  M.  to  the  S.,  and  possessing  a 
fine  pre-Norman  '-"C/nnrh.  The  tower  is  an  excellent  specimen  of  pre-Xor- 
man  architecture.  An  interesting  pre -Gorman  'Chapel  has  also  been 
brought  to  light  at  an  old  farm-house,  near  the  church.  A  stone  found 
here,  bearing  the  date  1056  (now  in  the  Ashmolean  Museum  at  Oxford; 
p.  233)  makes  either  the  church  or  chapel  (for  authorities  differ  as  to 
which  it  belonged  to)  the  earliest  dated  ecclesiistical  building  in  England. 

The  train  to  Worcester  now  enters  Worcestershire,  passes  (53  M.) 
Bredon  (with  a  fine  Dec.  church)  and  (557-2  ^^0  Eckington,  and 
crosses  the  Avon  close  to  (56  M.)  Defford.  Beyond  (60  M.)  Wad- 
borough  we  cross  the  railway  from  Worcester  to  ETesham. 

651/2  ^I-  Worcester.  —  Hotels.  Star  (PI.  a;  C,3),  Foregate  St.,  near  the 
Foregate  station,  R.  &  A.  55.;  Bell  (PI.  b),  Unicorn  (PI.  c),  *Crown,  all  in 
Broad  St.  (PI.  C,  4):  Hop  Market  (PI.  d;  C,  3),  Foregate  St. ;  Great  Western 
(PI.  h;  D,  3),  close'  to  the  joint  railway-station. 

Cabs.  For  l-2pers.,  per  drive  Is.,  3  pers.  Is.  6c?.,  4  pers.  2s.;  luggage 
up  to  56lbs.  free,  beyond  o6lbs.  Is.  per  cwt.  —  Tramways  traverse  some 
of  the  streets.  —  In  summer  a  small  Steamer  plies  to  Holt  and  other  places 
on  the  Severn. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Joint  Station  (PI.  D,  3)  of  the  Great  WesternRail- 
way  and  the  Midland  PLailwav,  at  Shrub  Hill,  1/2  ^-  ^0  the  E.  of  the  centre 
of  the  cicy;  2,  3.  Foregone  Street  Station  (PI.  C,  3)  and  Henwick  (PI.  A,  4), 
for  the  g!  W.  R.  trains  to  Hereford  and  South  Wales. 

Race-Course  (PI.  A,  2,  3),  by  the  river;  races  in  March,  July,  and  Nov. 

Worcester.,  an  episcopal  city  with  43,000  inhab.,  lies  on  the 
left  "bank  of  the  Severn,  in  a  fertile  and  picturesque  district.  Its 
principal  industrial  products  are  gloves,  porcelain,  boots  and  shoes, 
vinegar,  and  Worcester  sauce.    Its  hop-market  is  very  important. 

Worcester  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity.  It  seems  to  have  been  al- 
ready a  British  town  of  some  importance  (Caer  Guorangon?)-when  the 
Romans  captured  it  and  made  it  one  of  their  military  stations.  The 
Saxons  called  it  Wigorna  Ceasfer.  of  which  the  present  name  is  a  soft- 
ened form.  At  first  the  town  was  included  in  the  bishopric  of  Lichfield, 
but  it  was  elevated  to  the  position  of  an  independent  see  in  680.  The 
castle  was  built  in  the  11th  cent.,  and  was  occupied  by  several  of 
the  earlier  English  sovereigns.  Worcester  was  frequently  besieged  and 
burned  during  the  wars  of  the  middle  ages,  and  indeed  no  other  English 
town  of  equal  importance  has  had  a  more  chequered  history.  The  last 
and  most  celebrated  siege  was  that  of  1651,  when  Charles  II.  and  his 
Scottish  troops  were  defeated  by  Cromwell  before  the  town  after  a  very 
severe  struggle,  and  the  young  prince  narrowly  escaped  capture.  The  city 
motto,  'Civiras  in  Bello   in  Pace  Fidelis'',  refers  to  this  period  of  loyalty. 

A  good  general  view  of  Worcester  and  its  Cathedral  is  obtained 
from  the  Bridge  over  the  Sexern  (PI.  B,  4).  The  slender  spire,  which 
is  so  prominent  on  the  E.  bank,  belongs  to  the  Church  of  St.  An- 
drew (PI.  C,  4),  and  was  erected  in  the  middle  of  last  century. 


Wa*neri  Betes' Geog!  Estab^    Leipsic. 


to  Derby.  WORCESTER.  24.  Route.    185 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  C,  5),  dedicated  to  Christ  and  the  Blessed 
Virgin  Mary,  lies  on  the  river,  at  the  S.end  of  the  main  thorough- 
fare formed  by  Foregate  St.,  the  Cross,  and  High  St.  In  plan  it  is 
a  double  cross  with  very  short  transepts,  and  with  a  chapter-house 
and  spacious  cloisters  on  the  S.  side.  Its  length  is  450  ft.;  its 
width  in  the  nave  78  ft.,  and  across  the  W.  transepts  126  ft.; 
and  its  height  60-67  ft.  In  general  characteristics  it  is  E.  E. 
and  Dec,  but  it  includes  specimens  of  all  styles  from  the  Nor- 
man down  to  the  latest  Perpendicular.  The  present  church  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  one  built  by  St.  Wulfstan  in  the  11th  cent., 
of  which  the  crypt,  the  two  W.  bays  of  the  nave ,  the  interior  of 
the  chapter-house ,  and  some  portions  of  the  walls  now  alone 
remain.  The  oldest  parts  of  the  church  as  rc-erectcd  are  the  choir 
and  lady-chapel ,  which  date  from  the  first  quarter  of  the  13th 
century.  The  N.  side  of  the  nave  belongs  to  the  Dec,  and  the  S. 
side  to  the  early  Perp.  period  ;  but  they  are  very  similar  in  general 
appearance.  The  central  tower,  196  ft.  high,  was  completed  in 
1374,  and  shows  traces  of  the  transition  from  Dec.  to  Perpendicular. 
The  whole  edifice  was  restored  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir 
0.  0.  Scott,  and  this  restoration,  though  urgently  needed  and  carried 
out  with  great  taste,  has  somewhat  impaired  the  interest  of  the  ex- 
terior by  depriving  it  of  its  air  of  venerable  antiquity.  Visitors  are 
admitted  from  9  to  6  in  summer,  and  from  9.30  to  5  in  winter;  6d. 
is  charged  for  adm.  to  the  choir  and  crypt,  and  6d.  extra  for  the  as- 
cent of  the  tower  (week-day  services  at  10.15  a.m.  and  4.15  p.m.). 
The  most  famous  bishops  of  Worcester  were  Wulfstanll.  (1062-95), 
Cantelupe  (13th  cent.),  Hugh  Latimer  (1535-39),  Prideanx  (17th 
cent.),  Stilling f\eet  (16S9-99;  see  below),  and  Hurd  (1781-1808). 
The  usual  entrance  to  the  Cathedral  is  by  the  N.  Porch  (1386). 

The  imposing  -Interior  hag,  in  its  ina-inificent  groined  roof,  extend- 
ing in  an  unbroken  line  for  420  ft. ,  a  feature  that  perhaps  no  other 
English  cathedral  can  match.  The  modern  decoration  has  been  carried 
out  with  yreat  skill  and  judgment,  the  tiled  flooring  being  particularly 
worthy  of  notice.  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  With  the  exception  of  its 
W.  end.  the  Nave  in  its  present  form  is  later  than  the  choir,  and  there 
are  di (Terences  of  detail  between  its  N.  and  S.  sides  (see  above),  the  ad- 
vantage lying  with  the  older  work  on  the  N.  The  unusual  arrangement 
of  the  triforium  and  clerestory  of  the  two  Transitional  Norman  bays  at 
the  W.  end  should  be  noticed.  The  arched  recesses  in  the  wall  of  the 
S.  aisle  prove  that  the  lower  part  of  it  is  a  relic  of  the  Norman  cathedral. 
The  W.  end  of  the  nave  was  completely  altered,  and  the  W.  entrance  was 
blocked  up  towards  the  close  of  the  14th  century.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
S.  aisle  is  a  mural  monument  to  Bishop  Gauden  (d.  1062),  believed  to  be 
the  real  author  of  the  '■Eikon  Ba.<ilike\  ascribed  to  Charles  I.  The  hand- 
some modern  Pulpit  is  the  gift  of  the  late  Lord  Dudley. 

The  W.  Traxsepts  contain  a  good  deal  of  Norman  masonry,  partly 
concealed  by  later  work,  of  which  the  Perp.  veil  of  tracery  "in  the  S. 
arm  is  noteworthy.  The  difference  between  the  Norman  and  later  masonry 
is  easily  recognised.  In  the  K.  wall  of  the  N.  arm  is  a  Norman  arch, 
below  which  has  been  placed  the  monument  of  Bis?iop  Hough  (A.  1T43), 
a  master-piece  of  Roubiliac.  BisJiop  Stilling  fleet  (d.  IG'.IM)  is  also  buried  here. 
The  S.  arm  is  almost  entirely  lillod  by  the  Organ,  another  gift  of  the  Karl 
of  Dudley,  adapted  in  1896  to  Hope  Jones's  electro-pneumatic  system. 


186    Route  24.  WORCESTER.  From  Bristol 

The  *Choir  is  separated  from  the  nave  hy  one  of  these  elaborate 
screens  which  may  be  looked  upon  as  the  signs -manual  of  Sir  G.  G. 
Scotts  restorations;  and  there  are  also  metal  gates  at  the  ends  of  the 
aisles.  The  choir  dates  from  the  purest  E.  E.  period,  and  impresses  by 
its  richness  and  uniformity.  As  at  Salisbury  (p.  99) ,  slender  shafts  of 
Purbeck  marble  play  an  important  part  in  the  general  design.  The 
carving  of  the  bosses  and  capitals  is  very  delicate,  and  the  modern  paint- 
ing of  the  groined  roof  is  eflfective.  The  ^Stalls  date  from  1379,  and  have 
been  restored  and  supplemented  by  modern  work-,  the  misereres  are  very 
quaint.  The  Episcopal  Throne  and  the  Reredos  are  modern-,  the  Pulpit 
dates  from  1504.  aSTear  the  centre  of  the  choir  is  the  Ifonument  of  King 
John  (d.  1216),  who  died  at  Newark  (p.  368)  and  was  buried  here  at  his 
own  request;  the  monument  consists  of  a  sarcophagus -tomb  of  the 
16th  cent.,  surmounted  by  an  effigy  of  the  13th,  said  to  be  the  earliest 
existing  effigy  of  an  English  monarch.  To  the  right  of  the  altar  is  the 
Chantry  of  Prince  Arthur,  elder  brother  of  Henry  VIII.,  who  died  at  Lud- 
low Castle  (p.  181)  in  1502  and  was  interred  here;  the  chantry  is  a  good 
specimen  of  the  Tudor  style.  Adjacent  are  the  monuments  of  Lord  Dudley 
(d.  18i5)  and  Lord  Lyttelton  (d.  1876).  The  S.  aisle  of  the  choir  is  adjoined 
by  an  E.  E.  chapel. 

Beyond  the  sanctuary,  forming  the  E.  termination  of  the  Cathedral,  is 
the  Lady  Chapel,  erected  before  the  choir,  which  was  built  to  har- 
monize with  it  in  structural  and  ornamental  treatment.  On  the  S.  wall 
is  a  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Izaak  Walton's  wife,  a  sister  of  Bishop  Ken, 
with  a  quaint  epitaph,  doubtless  written  by  her  husband;  and  near  it  is 
a  fine  effigy  of  the  14th  century.  The  episcopal  effigies  in  front  of  the 
altar  are  those  of  Bishops  de  'Plois  (d.  1236)  and  de  Cantilupe  (d.  1266). 
The  sculptured  Arcade  running  round  the  Lady  Chapel  and  the  E.  Tran- 
septs is  of  considerable  interest.  In  the  N.E.  Transept  is  the  Monument  of 
Mrs.  Digby  (d.  1820),  by  Chantrey. 

The  *Crtpt,  entered  from  the  S.W.  Transept,  resembles  that  of  Glou- 
cester in  preserving  the  apsidal  termination  of  the  earlier  Norman  church. 
It  differs,  however,  from  that  and  other  Norman  crypts  in  the  lightness 
and  elegance  of  its  supporting  columns.     The  groined  roof  is  also  fine. 

The  Perp.  Cloisters,  entered  from  the  S.  aisle  of  the  nave,  have 
been  carefully  restored.  In  the  N.  walk  of  the  Cloisters  is  a  tombstone 
bearing  the  single  word  'Miserrimus'.  The  somewhat  prosaic  explanation 
is  that  it  marks  the  grave  of  a  Minor  Canon,  who  was  deprived  of  his 
preferments  on  refusing  to  take  the  oath  of  supremacy  on  the  accession  of 
William  III.  Wordsworth's  well-known  sonnet  takes  a  more  romantic  view. 

From  the  E.  side  of  the  Cloisters  we  enter  the  decagonal  ''Chapter 
House,  one  of  the  earliest  examples  of  vaulting  borne  by  a  single  column 
in  the  centre.  The  masonry  of  the  walls  is  mainly  Norman,  while  the 
windows  are  of  later  insertion. 

From  the  top  of  the  Tower  (adm.  Gd.),  which  contains  a  set  of 
chimes,  a  fine  view,  extending  to  the  Malvern  Hills,  is  enjoyed. 

The  Chapter  Library,  now  housed  in  the  triforium  of  the  S.  aisle 
of  the  nave,  contains  about  4000  printed  vols,  and  some  interesting  MSS. 
—  Triennial  Musical  Festivals,  see  p.  173. 

Among  the  remains  of  the  Benedictine  Priory ,  with  which  the 
Cathedral  was  originally  connected ,  the  most  important  is  the 
*R€fectory,  to  the  S.  of  the  Cloisters,  a  fine  hall  of  the  14th  cent., 
120  ft.  long,  with  a  Norman  crypt  below.  It  is  used  for  the  Cathe- 
dral Grammar  School,  and  has  lately  heen  restored.  The  present 
ceiling  is  an  imitation  of  the  original.  To  the  W.  of  the  Cloisters 
are  some  fragments  of  the  Dormitory,  and  to  the  E.,  on  the  N.  side 
of  College  Green,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Guesten  Hall  (1320).  —  The 
principal  entrance  to  the  College  Green  is  the  so-called  Edgars 
Tower  or  St.  Mary's   Gate ,   at  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  Cathedral ; 


to  Derby.  WORCESTER.  24.  Route.     1 87 

it  perhaps  dates  from  about  1500.  To  the  S.  of  the  College  Green 
stood  Worcester  Castle,  of  which  no  trace  has  heen  left.  *View  of 
the  Severn,  with  its  two  bridges,  and  of  the  suburbs  on  the  left 
bank,  from  the  S.W.  side  of  the  close.  The  Malvern  Hills  form 
the  background. 

A  little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Cathedral,  on  the  river,  is  the  old 
Episcopal  Palace,  now  the  Deanery  (PI.  C,  4).  The  present  residence 
of  the  Bishop  is  Hartlehury  Castle  (see  below). 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Cathedral,  in  Diglis  St.,  are  the  Royal 
Porcelain  Woeks  (PL  C,  5),  established  iu  1751,  which  cover  five 
acres  of  ground  and  employ  over  600  hands  (visitors  admitted  from 
10  a.m.  till  dusk,  closed  12-2.15;  6d.).  The  various  processes  of 
manufacture  and  the  collection  of  old  Worcester  are  very  interesting. 
Worcester  china  is  noted  for  its  hard  enamel  finish. 

Following  the  High  Street,  which  leads  to  the  N.  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Cathedral,  we  soon  reach,  on  the  left,  the 
Guildhall  (PI.  C,  4 ;  open  10-6  in  summer,  10-4  in  winter),  a  sub- 
stantial building  in  the  Queen  Anne  style.  It  is  adorned  with  statues 
of  various  monarchs  and  with  allegorical  figures  of  Justice,  Plenty, 
Chastisement,  Peace,  and  Industry.  The  hall,  110  ft.  long,  contains 
two  brass  cannon,  one  of  which  was  used  at  the  battle  of  Worcester. 
Opposite  the  Guildhall  is  the  Market  House. 

The  High  Street  is  prolonged  towards  the  N.  by  the  Cross,  a 
street  so  named  from  the  old  City  Cross,  long  since  removed,  and 
this  in  turn  is  prolonged  by  Foregate  Street,  the  principal  street  in 
the  town.  To  the  right  is  the  Hop  Market  (PI.  C,  3),  which  presents 
a  busy  scene  in  the  hop-season.  The  Public  Library  ^'  Museum 
(PI.  C,  3),  also  in  Foregate  Street,  contains  a  good  collection  of  nat- 
ural history  specimens  (open  daily,  10-8). 

Among  the  other  churches  of  Worcester  the  most  noteworthy  are 
St.  Stephens  (beyond  PI.  B,  1),  with  a  good  interior,  and  ffoli/  Trinity 
(PI.  D,  3),  near  the  railway-station,  with  the  fine  timber-roof  (14th  cent.) 
from  the  Guesten  Hall  (see  p.  18G).  —  The  Commandery  (PI.  C,  4),  in  Sid- 
bury,  originally  a  hospital,  but  now  private  property,  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  domestic  architecture  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIll.  —  The  hi)use  from 
which  Charles  II.  escaped  by  the  back-door,  as  his  enemies  were  entering 
at  the  front  (comp.  p.  184),  is  pointed  out,  opposite  the  Corn  Market 
(PI.  C,  4).  —  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  Lea  d:  Ferrins'  Manufactory  of 
'Worcester  Sauce',  to  the  Vinegar  Works  of  Hill,  Evans,  d:  Co.  (with  a  cask 
holding  114,600  gallons),  and  to  the  Glove  Manufactories  of  Messrs.  Bent  and 
Fownes  Brothers. 

The  immediate  environs  of  Worcester  offer  little  to  interest  the  tourist, 
but  excursions  may  be  made  to  Droitwich  (p.  189) ,  Evesham  (p.  188), 
Malvern  (p.  190),  Warwick  (p. 243),  and  Stratford  (p.  248).—  From  Worcester 
to  Hereford,  see  R.  25. 

Fkom  Wokcestek  to  Shrewsbvky,  52  M.,  G.  W.  R.  in  2V4-2V4  hrs.  (fares 
85.  6d.,  65.  6d.,  45.  3V.'rf.).  This  line  ascends  the  vallev  of  the  Severn.  To 
(5V'2M.)  Droitwich,  see  p.  189.  —  IIV4  M.  Hartkbury,  with  Hartlebury  Castle, 
the  residence  of  the  bishops  of  Worcester,  originally  built  in  the  iSth  cent., 
but  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  18th.  The  library  contains  the 
valuable  collection  of  Bishop  Hurd(d.  1808),  who  is  buried  in  the  churchyard. 
An  avenue  of  elms  in  the  park  was  planted  by  Bishop  Stillingfleet  (1659-99). 
14  M.   Stourport  (Swan),   with    a   bridge   over  the  Severn.  ^17  M.  Bewdley 


188    Route  24.  EVESHAM.  From  Br i. Hoi 

(George),  an  attractive  little  market-town  (3000  inhab.),  has  manufactures 
of  horn,  powder-flasks,  etc.  Opposite  the  Church  (18th  cent.)  are  the  Public 
Library  and  Museum.  Omnibuses  ply  every  1/2  hr.  to  Kidderminster  (p.  263), 
3  31.  to  the  N.E.  Bewdley  is  a  station  on  the  line  from  Kidderminster 
to  Woofferton  (p.  180).  —  2OV2  M.  A7'ky,  with  an  interesting  church  and  a 
Roman  camp;  '22^/i'M.  Highley;  25  M.  Hampton  Loade ;  271/4  M.  Eavdington. 
—  291/2  M.  Bridgnorth  (Grown;  Royal).,  a  busy  carpet-making  town,  consists 
of  a  'High  Town'  and  a  'Low  Town',  connected  by  a  lift  as  well  as  by 
flights  of  steps.  Only  a  fragment  remains  of  the  Ca'atle,  built  in  the  12th 
cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  Saxon  stronghold,  and  destroyed  in  1646. 
The  Church  of  St.  Leonard  is  almost  entirely  modern ;  it  contains  several 
old  cast-iron  tombstones,  a  metal  chalice  and  paten  of  the  14th  cent.,  the 
sword  of  Col.  Billingsley  (slain  in  1646),  and  an  oaken  chair  once  belong- 
ing to  Bishop  Heber.  The  Toicn  Hall,  resting  upon  pillars,  was  built  in 
1652  (restored  1888).  Thomas  Percy,  Bishop  of  Dromore,  was  born  (1728) 
in  an  ancient  timber-built  house  at  the  end  of  the  Cartway.  —  333/4  M. 
Linley.  36V2  M.  Coalj)ort,  noted  for  its  pottery  and  tiles.  3S1/2  M.  Ironbridge  db 
Broseley.  The  former  owes  its  name  to  a  bridge  over  the  Severn  con- 
structed in  1779,  said  to  be  the  first  iron  bridge  successfully  erected.  40  M. 
Buildwas,  with  a  beautiful  ruined  abbey,  founded  in  1135,  is  the  junction 
for  Much  Wenlock  fp,  181).  —  52  M.  Shrewsbury,  see  p.  265. 

From  Woecestee  to  Oxford,  57  M.,  G.  W.  R.  in  2-3i/2  hrs.  (95.  6d., 
6s.,  45.9c?.).  —  8  M.  Pershore  (Coventry  Arms;  Three  Tuns),  with  a  hand- 
some abbey-church,  with  a  square  tower  of  the  14th  cent.-,  ili/2  M.  Flad- 
bury,  also  with  a  fine  church  (Perp.).    We  then  cross  the  Avon. 

14  M.  Evesham  (Crown;  No-ihwick  Arms;  Railway),  a  small  town 
with  5836  inhab.,  in  a  fertile  valley,  celebrated  for  its  orchards  and 
market-gardens.  Here  Prince  P:dward,  afterwards  Edward  I. ,  defeated 
and  slew  Simon  de  Montfort  in  1265.  Of  Evesham  Abbey,  founded  in  the 
8th  cent.,  nothing  now  remains  except  the  fine  "Bell  Tower  (1533)  and 
a  Norman  Gateway;  the  former  is  visible  from  the  train,  above  the 
trees  to  the  left,  as  we  enter  the  station.  Simon  de  Montfort  was  buried 
in  the  abbey.  Within  the  churchyard  are  the  churches  of  St.  Lawrence 
(tine  fan- vaulting)  and  All  Saints,  both  erected  by  the  monks  of  the 
abbey.  —  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Evesham  is  the  village  of  Wickham- 
ford,  the  church  of  which  contains  the  flat  tomb  (near  the  altar)  of  Pene- 
lope Washington  (d.  1697),  bearing  the  Washington  coat-of-arms.  Broadway 
(Lygon  Arms),  a  quaint  little  place  3  M.  farther  on  in  the  same  direction, 
with  interesting  Elizabethan  houses .  is  a  favourite  resort  of  American 
artists  and  authors.  Coaches  daily  in  summer  to  (5  M.)  Evesham  (is.)  and 
(16  M.)  Cheltenham  (p.  182;  a  beautiful  drive  over  the  Cotswolds;  55.). 

19  M.  Honeyhourne  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Stratford-on-Avon  (p.  248) 
and  Warwick  (p.  243).  —  25  M.  Campden,  with  the  ruins  of  a  large  man- 
sion of  the  17th  cent.,  which  was  burned  down  to  prevent  its  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  Parliamentarians.  Xear  the  town  is  Campden 
House,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Gainsborough.  —  The  small  hospital  of 
(29  M.)  Moreton-in-the- Marsh  (White  Hart)  claims  to  possess  the  chair 
used  by  Charles  I.  at  his  trial.  Near  (34  31.)  Adlestrop  we  pass,  on  the 
right,  Daylesford  House,  once  the  seat  of  Warren  Hastings,  who  died  here 
in  1818  and  is  buried  in  the  churchyard.  The  mansion-house  at  Adlestrop, 
a  tine  Tudor  edifice,  belongs  to  Lord  Leigh, 

36  M.  Chipping  Norton  Junction,  the  station  for  a  branch  to  (4  M.) 
Chipping  Norton  (White  Hart;  Blue  Boar),  with  4222  inhab.,  has  woollen 
cloth  and  glove  factories  and  a  fine  Perp.  church.  About  2  BI.  to  the  N. 
are  the  Rollright  Stones,  the  scanty  remains  of  a  stone  circle  like  Stone- 
henge.  The  branch  goes  on  to  Banbury  (p.  242).  —  From  the  same  junction 
another  line  leads  to  the  W.  to  Cheltenham  and.  Gloucester  (see  p.  182). 
About  5  M.  from  (39  M.)  Shipton  is  Burford,  with  a  fine  Perp.  church 
containing  several  interesting  chapels  (13-15th  cent.),  in  one  of  which 
Speaker  Lenthall  is  buried.  From  Shipton  or  from  (40  M.)  Ascoit-under- 
Wychwood,  or  (44  M.)  Charlbury,  with  a  finely-situated  church,  a  visit  may 
be  paid  to  Wychwood  Forest,  a  fine  woodland  district.  One  mile  to  the 
S.  of  Charlbury  is  Cornbury  Park. 


to  Derby  TAM WORTH.  24.  Route.    1 89 

Near  (50  M.)  Handborough  the  train  crosses  the  Evenlode.,  a  tributary  of 
the  Isis,  the  course  of  which  has  been  followed  from  Moreton.  From 
(541/2  M.)  Yarnton  Junction  a  branch-line  runs  to  Witney  and  Fairford 
(Bull);  the  latter  contains  a  fine  church,  with  exquisite  stained -glass 
*Windows,  ascribed  (wrongly)  to  Albrecht  Diirer.  —  We  now  join  the 
main  G.  W.  line,  and  soon  reach  (57  M.)  Oxford  (p.  224). 

On  leaving  Worcester  the  train  threads  a  tunnel  and  passes 
(6T72  M.)  Fernhill  Heath.  To  the  right  is  Westivood  House,  the 
seat  of  Lord  Hampton.  —  71  M.  Droitwich  (Royal  Brine  Baths 
Hotel;  Raven,  well  spoken  of;  George),  a  town  with  4021  inhab., 
famous  for  its  brine  springs,  which  have  their  source  170  ft.  below 
the  surface  of  the  earth  and  contain  35-40  per  cent  of  pure  salt.  The 
springs  were  known  to  the  Romans,  and  are  now  again  frequented 
by  bathers,  while  many  thousand  tons  of  salt  are  also  produced 
for  commercial  use.  Droitwich  is  the  junction  of  the  G.  W,  R.  lines 
to  Shrewsbury  (p.  187)  and  to  Kidderminster  (p.  263)  and  Wolver- 
hampton (p.  264).  —  75  M.  Stoke  Works,  with  rock-salt  deposits 
and  copious  brine-springs.  Beyond  [78  M.)  Bromsgrove  (Golden 
Cross),  with  13,000  inhab.  and  quaint  gabled  houses,  the  train  as- 
cends one  of  the  steepest  railway-inclines  in  England  (1  :  37).  — 
81 1/2  ^I-  Barnt  Green  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Alcester,  Redditch 
(famous  for  needles).  Broom  (for  Stratford},  and  Evesham  (p.  188). 

93  M.  Birmingham  (New  St.  Station;  Rail.  Rfmt,  Rooms),  see 
p.  258. 

The  first  stations  beyond  Birmingham  are  Saltley,  Castle  Brom- 
xvich,  and  (96  M.)  Water  Orton,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Walsall 
and  Wolverhampton  (see  p.  264).  From  (101  M.)  Whitacre  a  line 
runs  to  the  right  to  Nuneaton  and  Leicester  (p.  358). 

1111/2  ^I-  Tamworth  (Castle;  Peel  Arms),  a  town  with  6614 
inhab.,  on  the  Tame,  lies  partly  in  Staffordshire  and  partly  in  War- 
wickshire. The  old  Castle,  bought  by  the  Corporation  in  1897,  was 
erected  by  Robert  Marmion,  a  celebrated  Norman  baron,  whose  name 
and  description  were  appropriated  by  Scott  for  liis  well-known  hero. 
The  Church,  also  an  ancient  building,  contains  effigies  of  the 
Marmion  family  and  a  monument  to  Sir  Robert  Peel.  The  curious 
double  winding  staircase  in  the  tower  deserves  notice.  In  the 
market-place  is  a  bronze  statue,  by  Noble,  of  Sir  Robert  Peel  (d.  1850), 
who  represented  Tamworth  in  parliament.  Drayton  Manor,  the  fam- 
ily-seat of  the  Peels,  lies  2  M.  to  the  S.;  and  the  great  minister  is  in- 
terred in  the  church  of  the  village  of  Drayton  Basseit.  —  Tamworth 
is  also  a  station  on  the  Trent  Valley  Line  of  the  L.  N.  W.  R.  (p.  3o6). 

1241/2  M.  Burton-on-Trent  (Queen;  White  Hart;  Station  Hotel; 
George),  famous  for  its  breweries  of  pale  ale  and  other  kinds  of  beer, 
is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Trent ,  here  crossed  by  a  long 
bridge.  Pop.  (1891)  46,047.  It  is  a  place  of  ancient  origin,  and 
the  churchyard  contains  some  relics  of  an  Abbey  founded  at  the 
beginning  of  the  11th  century.  The  Town  Hall,  built  in  1896  at  a 
cost  of  64,000^,,  was  presented  to  the  town  by  Lord  Burton.    The 


190   Route  25.  MALYERN.  From  Worcester 

lions  of  the  place  are  the  huge  breweries  of  Bass  ^  Co.  and  Allsopp 
<^'  Co.  The  former  covers  over  200  acres  of  ground,  employs  be- 
tween 3000  and  4000  men,  brews  annually  1,350,000  barrels  of  ale 
and  stout,  uses  100,000  railway  trucks,  and  pays  400,000^.  a  year 
for  beer-duty.  Permission  to  visit  either  of  these  breweries  may  be 
obtained  on  application  at  the  office,  where  the  traveller  inscribes 
his  name  in  a  book  kept  for  the  purpose. 

From  Burton  branch-lines  diverge  on  the  left  to  Uttoxeter  (p.  352),  the 
Potteries  (p.  352) .  and  Crewe  (p.  351) ,  and  on  the  right  to  Ashhy-de-la- 
Zouche  (p.  361),  Leicester  (p.  358),  etc. 

Near  (129  M.)  Repton-Willington  we  cross  the  Dove.  Repton^ 
1  M.  to  the  E.,  possesses  a  well-known  grammar-school,  established 
in  an  old  priory.  Below  the  chancel  of  St.  Wystan  is  a  pre-Norman 
*Crypt,  approached  by  two  staircases  of  similar  date. 

On  the  Dove,  41/2  M.  higher  np,  lies  Tuthury  (Castle  Inn),  with  a  castle 
partly  built  by  John  of  Gaunt,  and  u.<!ed  as  one  of  the  numerous  prisons 
of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  The  parish-church  of  Tutbury  has  a  Norman 
facade,  which  has  been  spoiled  by  restoration.  Near  Tutbury  alabaster 
quarries  are  worked. 

1351/2  M.  Derby,  see  p.  357. 

25.  From  Worcester  to  Hereford  and  Newport. 

Great  Western  Railway  to  (30  M.)  Hereford  in  IV4-IV2  br.  (fares 
5s..  3«.  2d.,  2s.  5^/2d.);  to  (71V4  M.)  Newport  in  3-4V4  hrs.  (fares  11*.  2d., 
75.  3rf.,  5s.  2^l2d.). 

The  train  crosses  the  Severn  and  stops  again  at  (1  M.)  Henwick 
(p.  184),  the  junction  for  (13  M.)  Bromyard.  Beyond  (4M.)  Brans- 
ford  Road  the  Malvern  Hills  come  into  view  on  the  right.  —  71/2  M. 
Malvern  Link ;  82/4  M.  Great  Malvern ;  9^/4  M.  Malvern  Wells. 

Malvern.  —  Hotels.  At  Great  Malvern:  ^Imperial,  near  the  station, 
with  pleasant  grounds  and  brine  baths,  pens,  from  3/.  3s.  per  week; 
*Abbet,  R.  &  A.  from  5s.,  B.  from  2?.,  I),  from  4s.  6(Z.,  plain  tea  Is.  6cZ. ; 
*Bellevde,  ■'Folet  Arms,  all  on  the  hill;  Tudor  Private  Hotel;  Beau- 
champ,  commercial,  R.  &  A.  4s.  Qd.,  pens.  3l.  3s.  per  week;  Ratner's 
Htdropathic;  Leicester  House  Hydropathic,  patients  42s.,  boarders 
30s.  a  week.  Also  numerous  Boarding  Houses  (5-lOs.  per  day)  and  Lodgings. 
—  At  Malvern  Wells:  Essington  Hotel;  Hornyold  Arms.  —  At  North 
Malvern:  North  Malvern  Hotel.  —  At  West  Malvern:  Westminster  Arms 
Hotel. 

Assembly  Rooms  and  Gardens  in  Great  Malvern,  with  concerts  (adm. 
6d.).  Spa  and  Pump  Room  on  the  W.  side  of  Worcester  Beacon  (adm.  6d.). 

Cabs,  Is.  per  mile  or  fraction  of  a  mile  for  1-2  pers.;  each  addit.  pers. 
^d.  Carriage  d-  Pair  4s.  per  hr..  Is.  6c/.  for  each  addit.  V2  ^^-i  21«-  per 
day;  to  Worcester  and  back  8s.;  to  the  British  Camp  and  back  by  the 
Wyche  8s.;  to  Eastnor  Castle  and  ba,ck  12s. 

Malvern^  an  inland  health-resort,  famous  for  its  bracing  air 
and  pleasant  situation,  includes  the  town  of  Great  Malvern  (pop. 
6100)  and  the  villages  of  Malvern  Link,  Malvern  Wells,  Little 
Malvern,  North  Malvern,  and  West  Malvern,  all  consisting  mainly 
of  villas,  hotels,  and  hydropathic  establishments.  The  first  four 
lie  at  the  E.  base  of  the  Malvern  Hills,  a  small  chain  10  M.  long 
and  1000-1450  ft.  high,  forming  the  watershed  between  the  Severn 


to  Newport.  MALVERN.  25.  Route.    191 

and  the  Wye ;  while  the  other  two  are  on  the  N.  and  W.  slopes 
of  the  same  range.  The  chief  centre  is  Great  Malvern,  which 
contains  the  Assembly  Rooms  and  Gardens,  the  best  hotels  and 
boarding-houses,  and  the  principal  shops;  but  visitors  in  search  of 
quiet  or  economy  will  probably  prefer  one  of  the  villages.  The 
principal  springs  are  the  Chalybeate  Well  and  St.  Ann's  Well 
(756  ft.),  at  Great  Malvern,  the  Holy  Well  (680  ft.),  above  Malvern 
Wells,  Siiid  the  Royal  Well,  near  West  Malvern.  Malvern  is  a  great 
educational  centre,  the  chief  school  being  Malvern  College. 

The  beautiful  *  Priory  Church,  belonging  to  a  priory  founded 
in  the  11th cent.,  is  externally  aPerp.  edifice,  with  a  tower  appar- 
ently modelled  on  that  of  Gloucester  Cathedral.  The  nave,  how- 
ever, and  part  of  the  rest  of  the  interior  are  Norman.  The  N.W. 
Porch  was  restored  in  1895. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  are  St.  Anne's  Chapel  (13th  cent.);  the 
tiles  at  the  back  of  the  choir ;  the  old  stuined-glass  windows  (the  finest 
in  St.  Anne's  Chapel);  the  miserere  carvings-,  the  mosaic  in  the  reredos ; 
and  some  of  the  monuments.  —  The  only  other  relic  of  the  priory  is  the 
Gateway,  a  little  to  the  W.  Malvern  Priory  claims  to  be  the  monastery  of 
William  Langland,  author  of  'Piers  Plowman's  Vision',  which  begins  on 
a'May  mornynge  on  Maluerne  hulles'.  Organ  recitals  are  given  in  the  church 
on  Wed.  afternoons. 

Little  Malvern  or  Malvern  Parva,  1 M.  to  the  S.  of  Malvern  Wells, 
also  contains  the  interesting  remains  of  a  Norman  church,  consist- 
ing of  the  tower  and  chancel. 

Excursions.  The  Worcester  Beacon  (1M4  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Mal- 
vern Hills,  rises  immediately  above  Great  Malvern  and  may  be  ascended 
by  easy  paths  in  1/2  hr.  (pony  or  mule,  about  Is.).  The  route  passes  the 
Priory  Church  and  St.  Ann's  Well.  The  *Vie\v  is  very  extensive,  reach- 
ing on  the  W.  to  the  hills  of  Brecknock  and  stretching  on  the  E.  over 
an  apparently  boundless  plain.  Hereford,  Worcester,  Gloucester,  Chelten- 
ham, and  Tewkesbury  are  all  within  sight. 

'Twelve  fair  counties  saw  the  blaze 
From  Malvern's  lonely  height. ' 

The  North  Hill  (1326  ft.;  1/2  lir.),  to  the  N.  of  the  Worcester  Beacon, 
may  also  be  ascended;  and  we  may  follow  the  ridge  to  the  S.,  along  an  old 
fosse  dividing  Worcestershire  and  Herefordshire,  ^0  the  (1  M.)  Wt/che  (see 
below).  Beyond  the  Wyche  the  walk  may  be  continued  alonir  the  ridse 
to  WincVs  Point  (830  ft.;' British  Camp  Inn)  and  (3  M.)  the  'Herefordshire 
Beacon  (1370  ft.),  the  top  of  which  has  been  converted  into  a  strong  ifr(<(s/t 
Camp,  capable  of  holding  20,000  men.  According  to  tradition,  this  was  the 
scene  of  the  capture  of  Caractacus  by  the  Romans  in  A.  D.75. 

The  Round  of  the  Hills  is  a  favourite  drive  from  Great  Malvern, 
and  may  be  made  in  an  excursion-brake  plying  from  the  Bellevue  Hotel 
(Is.).  We  skirt  the  E.  slope  of  the  hills,  pass  through  the  (IVj  M.)  Wyche 
Pass  (900  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  the  Worcestershire  Beacon,  and  return  alons  the 
W.  side  of  the  range  via  (IV2  M.)   West  Malvern  and  (1  M.)  North  Malvern 

PZxcursion-brakes  also  ply  to  (8  M.)  Eastnor  Park,  the  collection  of 
paintings  and  armour  in  which  is  shown  to  visitors  on  Tues.  and 
Fridays.  The  road  to  it  leads  by  Malvern  Wells,  Malvern  Parva,  and 
Wind's  Point  (see  above),  the  last  part  traversing  the  beautiful  park  sur- 
rounding the  castle. 

Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Worcester,  Evesham,  Oloucesler,  Stoke 
Edith  Park  (tickets  obtained  at  the  booksellers"),  Ledbury,  Tewkesbury,  etc. 

Beyond  Malvern  Wells  the  train  penetrates  the  Malvern  Hills 
by  a  long  tunnel.    11  M.  Colivall,  with  an  old  church.    Farther  on, 


\^2   Route  26.  ABERGAVENNY. 

Eastnor  Castle  (see  p.  191)  and  an  obelisk  in  Eastnor  Park  are  seen 
to  the  right.    Another  tunnel,  nearly  1  M.  long,  is  then  threaded. 

—  16m.  Ledbury  ('Feai/icrs^  a  busy  little  town,  manufactures  cider, 
perry,  sacking,  and  cordage.  The  large  Church  is  an  interesting 
study  in  architectural  styles,  from  Norman  to  Perpendicular.  The 
Market  House  (1633)  has  a  projecting  story  supported  by  pillars  of 
Spanish  chestnut.  An  Institute,  opened  in  1895,  commemorates 
Elizabeth  Barrett  Browning  (1809-61),  who  spent  her  girlhood  at 
Hope  End,  in  the  vicinity. 

Fkom  Ledbukt  to  Gloucestek,  19  M.,  a  railway  runs  in  ^/t-i^/t  hr. 
(2s, dd..  Is.  iid.,  Is.  Id.)  via  Dymock,  with  a  massive  church-tower  (to  the 
left),  Newent,  and  Barber's  Bridge.  About  2V-.'  31.  from  Dymock  is  the  old 
^Norman  church  of  Kemplei/,  with  well-pre<erved  mural  paintings  of  the 
12th  cent,  (in  the  chaacelj.  —  19  M.  Gloucester,  see  p.  170. 

19  M.  Ashperton;  22  M.  Stoke  Edith,  with  the  beautiful  park 
of  Lady  Foley;  25  M.  Withington.  with  encaustic  tile  works. 

30  M.  Hereford,  see  p.  178.  —  347-2  M.  Tram  Inn.  About 
Vo  ^1.  from  (37  M.)  St.  Devereux  is  the  interesting  late-Norman 
*Church  of  Kilpeck,  with  elaborate  sculptures,  described  as  'facile 
princeps  amongs  its  fellows  of  the  same  type'.  —  From  (407-2  ^1-) 
Pontrilas  a  branch-line  runs  through  the 'Golden  Valley'  to  (11  M.) 
Dorsto^xe  and  (16  M.)J7aT/.  The  scenery  now  improves.  To  the  right 
rise  the  Black  Mountains.  —  4772  ^1-  Pandy  is  the  nearest  railway 
station  for  Llanthony  Abbey,  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  ruins  consist 
of  the  church  and  chapter-house,  and  afford  an  interesting  example 
of  Transition  Norman  (12th  cent.),  though  part  is  as  late  as  the 
14th  century.  The  Priors  Lodge  is  now  an  inn.  Walter  Savage 
Landor  (d.  1864)  lived  here  for  some  years.  Llanthony  Monastery, 
the  home  of  Father  Ignatius,  lies  about  4  M.  farther  up  the  valley. 

—  4872  ^I-  Llanvihangel  is  61,9  M.  from  Llanthony  Abbey. 
Beyond  Llanvihangel  the  Sugarloaf  (1955  ft.),  a  spur  of  the 

Black  Mts. ,  comes  into  view  on  the  right.  From  (51  M.)  Aberga- 
venny Junction  a  line  (L.  N.W.)  diverges  on  the  right  to  Rhymney 
Bridge  (for  Cardiff),  Merthyr  Tydvil  (p.  196),  Doivlais ,  etc.  Good 
view  to  the  right  up  the  valley  of  the  XJsk. 

52 M.  Abergavenny  f^An^eZ ;  *Grey/iOimd;  Swan),  with  7640  in- 
hab.,  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Usk  and  the  Gavenny,  and 
enclosed  by  well-wooded  hills  (see  below).  It  occupies  the  site  of 
the  Roman  Gobannium  and  possesses  the  remains  of  a  Norman  castle 
(adm.  Id.)  and  a  modernized  Benedictine  priory-church  of  the  14th 
cent. ,  with  several  ancient  monuments.  Good  fishing  may  be  obtain- 
ed in  the  Usk  (day-tickets  for  trout  2^;.  Qd.,  for  salmon  5s.). 

The  Sugarloaf  (1955  ft.)  may  be  easily  ascended  from  Abergavenny  in 
IV2-2  hrs.  (ponv  5s.);  *View  line  and  extensive.  The  descent  may  be  made 
on  theW.  side  to  Crickhowell  (p.  193).  —  The  Blorenge  (1808  ft.-,  IV2  hr.) 
commands  an  even  finer  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Usk,  and  Skyrrid-Vawr 
(1600  ft.),  4  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  is  also  a  good  point  of  view, 

Aber^'avenny  is  a  good'startinfi-point  for  a  visit  to  Llanthonv  Abbey 
(see  above),  which  maybe  reached  direct  by  road  (IQi/-.'  M.;  carr.  ife  pair  there 
and  back  25s.)  or  partly  by  rail  via  Llanvihangel  or  Pandy  (see  above).  — 


NEWPORT.  26.  Route.    193 

Another  pleasant  excursion  may  be  taken  up  the  finest  part  of  the  valley 
of  the  Usk  to  (61/2  M. ;  omn.  is.  Qd.)  Crickhowell  (Bear).,  a  village  with 
the  remains  of  an  old  castle.  Above  Crickhowell  the  Usk  valley  is  also 
picturesque,  and  walkers  or  drivers  will  be  repaid  by  following  it  to 
(20  M.)  Brecon  (p.  205).  —  Tolerable  walkers,  who  have  one  day  at  Aber- 
gavenny, should  ascend  the  Sugarloaf  and  return  via  Crickhowell. 

From  Abergavenny  to  Cardiff  hy  the  L.N.W.R.  route,  see  pp.  192  and  195. 

Beyond  (54^2  ^0  Penpergwm  we  cross  the  Usk.  —  61 '/2  ^I* 
Pontypool  Road  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of  lines  to  Mer- 
thyr  and  Sxcansea  (p.  195)  and  to  Raglan  and  Monmouth  (p.  175). 
The  industrial  town  of  Pontypool  (Crown;  Clarence)  lies  I72  ^1- 
to  the  W.  —  68  M.  Caerleon  (Angel),  on  the  Usk,  the  Isca  Silurum 
of  the  Romans,  and  the  traditional  residence  of  King  Arthur. 

Near  the  church  is  an  interesting  Museum  of  Roman  antiquities  (adm. 
6d.),  the  road  opposite  which  leads  to  the  well-defined  Amphitheatre  and 
a  mound  known  as  King  Arthur's  Round  Table.  Caerleon  was  at  a  very 
early  period  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  whose  see  was  transferred  in  the 
11th  cent,  to  St.  David's  (p.  215). 

At  (71^4  M.)  Newport  we  join  the  railway  described  in  R.  26. 

26.  From  Gloucester  to  Cardiff,  Swansea,  andMilford. 

Great  Western  Railway  to  (56  M.)  Cardiff  in  ii/2-2V4hrs.  (fares  9s.  Gd., 
6i.,  4«.  8V2d.);  to  (102  M.)  Swansea  in  3-4  hrs.  (fares  17*.,  i0s.8d.,  St.  Qd.), 
to  (170  M.)  A'ew  Milford  in  5-73/4  hrs.  (fares  28s.  6t/.,  17*.  10c?.,  14s.  3d.). 
This  line  traverses  the  S.  part  of  Wales  (see  p.  xxx). 

From  Gloucester  to  (71/2  M.)  Grange  Court,  see  p.  173.  Our 
line  here  diverges  to  the  left  (8.)  from  that  to  Ross  (see  R.  23), 
follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Severn,  and  skirts  the  E.  margin  of 
the  Forest  of  Dean  (p.  177).  11  M.  Neicnham  (Victoria).  To  the 
left  we  have  a  good  view  of  the  Severn  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  121. 
Beyond  (14^4  M.)  Awre  we  cross  the  line  from  Bristol  to  Sharpness 
and  Lydbrook,  in  the  heart  of  the  Forest  of  Dean;  and  at  (19  M.) 
Lydney  (Feathers)  those  who  wish  to  explore  the  Forest  change 
carriages.  —  The  train  then  crosses  the  Wye  by  a  tubular  bridge, 
630  ft.  long,  and  roaches  (27y.2^^-)  Chepstow  (seep.  177).  Ex- 
cursion through  the  valley  of  the  Wye,  see  pp.  174-177.  —  Beyond 
(32  M.)  Portskewett,  the  ruins  of  Caldicott  Castle  (p.  177)  are  seen 
to  the  right.  At  (35V4  M.)  Severn  Tunnel  Junction  our  line  unites 
with  that  from  Bristol  (see  p.  121). 

441/2  M.  Newport  (*Westgate  ;  King's  Head  ;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
a  flourishing  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Usk ,  with  54,707  in- 
hab.,  extensive  docks,  and  a  large  export-trade  in  iron  and  coal, 
is  also  an  important  railway -centre  for  the  mining  district  of  S. 
Wales.  The  remains  of  the  old  Castle  date  from  the  11th  century.  The 
Church  of  St.  Woollos  has  a  good  Norman  interior  and  a  massive 
square  tower  (comp.  p.  xxxiii).  Newport  was  the  scene  of  Frost's  abor- 
tive Chartist  rising  in  1839.  Caerleon  (see  above)  lies  about  3  M. 
to  the  N.E.  —  Railway  to  Pontypool  and  Hereford,  see  R.  25. 

Beyond  (49^/4  M.)  Marshfield  the  train  crosses  the  Rhymney  and 
enters  Glamorganshire,  the  southernmost  county  in  Wales. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  13 


1 94    Route  26.  CARDIFF.  From  Gloucester 

56  M.  Cardiff.  —  Hotels.  'Park,  Queen  St.,  R.  &  A.  from  4«.,  D.  2s. 
Qd.-ls.,  board  IO5.  6rf. ;  -Angel,  Castle  St.,  near  the  castle;  Royal,  65  St. 
Mary  St.,  R.  <fc  A.  4s.-,  Great  Western,  at  the  S.  end  of  St.  Mary  St., 
near  the  G.  W.R.  station." — Queen's,  84  St. Mary  St.,  commercial;  Alexan- 
dra, near  the  TaffVale Station;  Rater's  Temperance,  Westgate  St.,  behind 
the  Royal;  Dock  Hotel,  unpretending.  —  Philharmonic  Restaurant,  St.  Mary 
St.;  Refreshment  Booms,  at  the  G.  W.R.  station.  —  Dorothy  Cafi^  Grosvenor 
Gaf4.  St.  Mary  St. 

Tramways  traverse  most  of  the  main  streets.  —  Omnibus  from  the  S. 
end  of  St.  Mary  St.  to  the  Doclcs  (fare  Ic?.)  and  Penarth  {Id.)  ;  from  High 
St.  to  Llandoff  &d.)-,  etc. 

Post  Office  in  St.  Mary  St.,  not  far  from  the  Royal  Hotel. 

U.  S.  Consul,  Anthony  Hoictlls,  Esq.,  16  Custom  House  St. 

Steamers  ply  from  Cardiff  daily  to  Bristol;  1-3  times  weekly  to  Cork, 
Swansea,  Belfast,  and  Glasgoic;  also  in  summer,  several  times  daily  to 
Weston,  and  once  daily  to  LynmoiOh  and  Ilfracombe.  A  small  steamer 
also  plies  from  the  Docks  to  Penarth  every  1/2  hr.,  for  tveo  hrs.  before  and 
two  hrs.  after  high  water. 

Railway  Stations.  Great  Western  Railway  Station,  at  the  S.  end  of 
St.  Mary  St.;  Taff  Vale  Station,  in  Queen  Street,  nearly  1  M.  to  the  W,; 
Rhymney  Station,  adjoining  the  last;  Docks  Station  of  the  Taff  Vale  Co.; 
Clarence  Road  Station,  close  to  the  Docks,  fnr  Penarih  and  Barry. 

Cardiff  [the  'Caer',  or  castle,  on  the  Taff),  a  well-built  and 
rapidly  growing  town  with  160,000  inhab.  (2000  in  1801),  situated 
on  the  Taff,  2  M.  above  its  mouth,  has  the  largest  coal -shipping 
trade  in  the  world  (15,600,000  tons  in  1896)  and  also  exports  large 
quantities  of  iron  and  manufactures  from  the  S.  Wales  mineral 
field.  It  exports  a  larger  tonnage  than  any  other  port  in  the  world, 
J^ew  York  being  second.  The  magnificent  docks  (see  below)  were 
built  by  the  late  Marquis  of  Bute,  the  lord  of  the  manor,  to  whose 
spirit  and  energy  the  town  owes  much  of  its  importance. 

The  main  thoroughfare  is  High  St.,  leading  to  the  castle  and  the 
bridge  over  the  Taff.  Cardiff  Castle  (adm.  Is.  ;  tickets  obtained  at 
the  porters  lodge,  inside  the  gates),  erected  in  the  lith  cent.,  has  been 
elaborately  restored,  and  is  occasionally  occupied  by  the  Marquis  of 
Bute.  The  castle  was  the  prison  of  Robert  Curthose,  eldest  son  of  the 
Conqueror,  who  died  here  after  nearly  30  years' captivity.  The  ancient 
keep  (14:th  cent.)  is  still  preserved ;  but  the  lofty  clock-tower  and 
other  prominent  features  of  the  exterior  and  most  of  the  inhabited 
rooms  are  modern.  The  most  interesting  of  the  frescoes  are  those 
in  the  Banquet  Hall,  illustrating  the  history  of  the  Castle.  —  A 
good  view  of  the  Castle  is  obtained  from  the  prettily  laid-out 
Sophia  Gardens,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  which  contain 
the  scanty  ruins  of  an  old  Grey  Friars  Monastery.  The  Church  of 
St.  John,  in  Church  St.,  to  the  E.  of  High  St.,  was  built  in  the  13th 
cent.,  but  the  fine  Perp.  tower  is  a  later  addition.  —  The  Free 
Library,  in  Working  St.,  b\ult  in  1882,  was  enlarged  in  1893-96, 
and  can  accommodate  600  readers;  upstairs  is  an  Art  Gallery  and 
Museum,  with  a  few  modern  paintings  (open  10-5,  except  on  Frid. ; 
on  Wed.  &  Sat.   also  5-9  p.m.). 

The  *Dock8,  reached  by  crossing  the  canal  at  the  E.  end  of  St. 
Mary  St.,  consist  of  four  main  basins,  with  an  aggregate  area  of 


to  Milford.  PENARTH.  26.  Route.    195 

112  acres  and  6  M.  of  qnays.  There  are  additional  docks  at  Penarth 
(26  acres ;  see  below),  and  at  Barry  (90  acres),  8  M.  to  the  S.W. 
(railway  in  25  min.). 

The  South  Wales  University  College,  established  in  the  former 
Infirmary  in  Newport  Road,  is  attended  by  about  380  students.  The 
Technical  School  has  between  2000  and  3000  students. 

The  most  interestinfi  excursion  from  Cardiff  is  to  Llandaff  Cathedral 
(see  p.  196),  reached  by  railway,  by  road,  or  by  a  pretty  field-path  (2  M.). 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Taff  estuary,  4  M.  from  Cardiff,  lies  Penarth 
{.Penarth  Hotel.,  on  Penarth  Head;  Marine  Inn.,  in  the  town),  the  marine 
residence  and  bathing-resort  of  the  Cardiffians  (12,500  inhab.) ,  with  an 
Esplanade  and  fine  salt-water  swimminp:-b;iths.  It  may  be  reached  bv 
railway,  omnibus,  or  steamer  (comp.  p.  194).  The  commercial  part  of  the 
town  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Head,  adjoining  the  extensive  Penarth 
Docks.  Above  the  Esplanade  are  the  Windsor  Garden.^  (adm.  id.),  affording 
pleasant  walks  and  views.  A  more  extensive  view  is  obtained  from  Penarth 
Head  (200ft.),  near  the  foreign-looking  church.  Geologists  will  find  much 
to  interest  them  in  the  stratification  of  the  cliffs  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
Esplanade.  In  Plymouth  Road .  facing  the  Town  Station,  is  the  Turner 
Home  Gallery,  a  valuable  collection  of  paintings  presented  to  Penarth 
District  Council  in  1896.  containing  several  works  by  Turner,  a  Rosaetti, 
etchings  by  "SVhistler,  etc.  (adm.  free,  Wed.  &  Sun.  3-5). 

From  Cardiff  to  Caerphillt  and  Rhymnet  Bridge,  24  M.,  Rhymney 
Railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  4«.  2d.,  2s.  lOd.,  2s.).  This  line,  vp'hich  starts  from 
the  Rhymney  Station  (p.  194),  forms  part  of  the  L.  N.  W.  route  to  S. 
Wales  (comp.  p.  193).  The  whole  of  this  district  is  covered  with  a 
dense  network  of  railways,  constructed  chiefly  for  the  mineral  traffic 
and  of  comparatively  little  importance  to  tourists.  —  8  M.  Caerphilly  (Castle 
Inn),  on  the  Rhymney,  is  often  visited  for  the  sake  of  its  *Castle,  a 
picturesque  and  extensive  ruin  of  the  13th  cent.  (adm.  3o?.).  Its  system 
of  fortification  is  very  elaborate,  and  seems  to  have  included  arrangements 
by  which  the  surrounding  country  could  be  laid  under  water.  Soon  after 
its  erection  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Despensers,  the  notorious 
favourites  of  Edward  II.  (1307-1327),  and  that  monarch  once  found  shelter 
here,  just  before  his  fall.  The  date  of  the  destruction  of  the  castle  is 
unknown.  The  'Leaning  Tower',  at  the  S.  E.  corner  (60  ft.  high),  seems 
to  owe  its  inclination  to  an  attempt  to  blow  it  up  with  gunpowder.  The 
castle  now  belongs  to  the  Marquis  of  Bute.  —  15  M.  Ystrad,  prettily 
situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Rhymney,  which  contracts  above  Caerphilly. 

—  16  M.  Hengoed  is  the  junction  for  the  G.  W.  R.  line  from  Pontypool 
to  Swansea.  —  22  M.  Rhymney,  with  large  iron-works,  employing  7000  men. 

—  At  (24  M.)  Rhymney  Bridge  we  join  the  line  from  Abergavennv  to 
Merthyr  Tydvil  (see  p.  193). 

From  Cardiff  to  Merthtr  Tydvil,  24V2  M.,  Taff  Vale  Railway  in 
3/4-I  hr.  (fares  4^.,  'ds.,  is.  ii^/id.).  This  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Taff, 
the  natural  charms  of  which  have  to  a  great  extent  disappeared  before 
the  steady  advance  of  iron-works  and  coal-pits.  —  41/2  M.  Llandaff  Station, 
11/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  town  (see  p.  196).  —  From  (7  M.)  Walnut  Tree 
Bridge  JvncHon  (junction  of  line  to  JAantrissant,  p.  197)  we  may  visit 
(3/4  M.)  Casfell  Coch  ('red  castle'),  a  finely-situated  feudal  chateau  (13th 
cent. ;  restored)  belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Bute.  Wine  is  made  every 
year  from  the  small  vineyard  below  the  castle.  —  At  (13  M.)  Setcbridge 
or  Pontypridd  Jvnc/ion  a  line,  diverging  to  the  left,  ascends  the  valley 
of  the  Rhondda,  the  most  important  of  the  Glamorganshire  colliery  dis- 
tricts, to  {iO^rz  M.)  Treherhert,  and  thence  proceeds  via  Cymmer  to  Port 
Talbot  (p.  1?8),  while  another,  to  the  right,  leads  to  Caerphilly  (see 
above)  and  Newport  (p.  193).  The  "Bridge  from  which  Pontypridd"  takes 
its  name  is  a  singularly  graceful  stone  bridge  spanning  the  Taff  in  a  single 
arch,  140  ft.  wide  and  forming  a  perfect  segment  of  a  circle.  It  was 
constructed  in  1755  by  a  stone-mason  named  Edwards,  after  two  unsuc- 
cessful attempts.    The  cylindrical  tunnels  in  the  'haunches'  of  the   bridge 

13* 


1  96   Route  26.  LLANDAFF.  From  Gloucester 

were  made  to  lighten  the  masonry  and  so  diminish  the  inward  thrust.  — 
From  (16  M.)  Aberdcire  Junction  a  line  runs  to  C^h  M.)  Aherdare  (with 
large  iron -works)  and  (IOV2  M.)  Hirwain  Junction  (p.  198).  —  At  (18  M.) 
Quaker's  Yard  Junction  we  cross  the  G.  W.  R.  line  from  Pontypool  to 
Hirwain.  —  Farther  on  we  pass  under  the  Neath  Valley  Railway  (p.  198). 

241/2  M.  Merthyr  Tydvil  (Castle,  R.  &  A.  4s.;  Bush^  near  the  station, 
both  commercial) ,  a  busy  but  mean-looking  and  uninviting  town  with 
about  5S,000  inhabitants.  It  is  of  ancient  origin,  taking  its  name  from 
the  virgin  saint,  Tydvil  the  Martyr  (6th  cent.) ;  but  its  importance  is  wholly 
of  modern  growth,  and  three-quarters  of  a  century  ago  it  was  an  incon- 
siderable village.  It  is  the  great  centre  of  the  iron-working  district  of 
S.  Wales,  and  the  night  aspect  of  the  valley  in  which  it  lies,  lit  up  by 
the  lurid  glare  of  innumerable  furnaces,  is  very  impressive.  At  the  Cp- 
farthfa  Iron  Works,  about  1  M.  from  the  station,  the  newest  and  best 
processes  for  smelting  iron  and  converting  it  into  steel  may  be  seen. 
Above  the  works  is  Cyfarthfa  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  senior  partner. 
—  An  omnibus  runs  from  Merthyr  to  (2  M.)  Dowlais,  with  the  Dowlais  Iron 
&  Steel  Works^  which  are  on  a  still  more  extensive  scale.  Within  their 
precincts  are  some  remains  of  the  old  castle  of  Morlais,  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Welsh  princes  of  Brecon.  Visitors  are  courteously  ad- 
mitted to  either  establishment  on  application  at  the  office. 

Travellers  who  do  not  wish  to  return  to  Cardiff  may  go  on  from 
Merthyr  eastwards  to  Abergavenny  (p.  192),  northwards  to  Brecon  (p.  206), 
or  westwards  to  Swansea  (p.  198). 

About  5  mill,  after  leaving  Cardiff  the  train  stops  at  (58  M.) 
Ely,  the  station  for  Llandaff  (Red  Lion),  1  M.  to  the  right,  the 
smallest  city  in  England  (700  inhab.),  now  practically  a  suburb 
of  Cardiff  (omnibus,  see  p.  194).  It  is  interesting  as  the  seat  of 
perhaps  the  oldest  episcopal  see  in  Great  Britain,  established  by 
SS.  Dubritius  and  Teilo  at  the  end  of  the  6th  century.  On  our  way 
from  the  station  to  the  cathedral  we  pass  the  large  castellated  gate- 
way of  the  old  Bishop^s  Palace  (destroyed  by  Owen  Glendower). 
Near  the  gateway  is  a  Cross,  on  an  ancient  base. 

The  *Cathedeal,  pleasantly  situated  amid  trees,  at  the  foot  of  a 
slope  rising  above  the  river  Taff,  occupies  the  same  spot  as  the  ear- 
liest church  of  SS.  Dubritius  and  Teilo.  This,  however,  which  seems 
to  have  been  a  very  small  edifice,  was  removed  by  Bishop  Urban 
(1107-33),  who  undertook  the  erection  of  an  entirely  new  church. 
In  the  E.  E.  period  Urban's  church  was  extended  westwards  as 
far  as  the  present  W.  front ,  and  the  only  remains  of  it  are 
the  Norman  arch  between  the  Presbytery  and  Lady  Chapel,  part 
of  the  S.  wall  of  the  former,  and  the  Norman  doorways  incorpor- 
ated in  the  aisle- walls.  The  Chapter  House  is  also  E.E.,  of  a  some- 
what later  date  ;  the  Lady  Chapel  is  early  Dec. ;  the  Presbytery  and 
the  walls  of  the  aisles  both  in  nave  and  choir  were  rebuilt  in  the 
late  Dec.  period;  and  the  N.  W.  tower  was  built  by  Jasper  Tudor, 
uncle  of  Henry  VII.,  while  the  S.  W.  tower  (E.  E.)  seems  to  have 
been  left  standing.  At  a  later  date  the  building  was  completely 
neglected;  the  W.  end  of  the  nave  collapsed  at  the  beginning 
of  last  cent.,  and  the  cathedral  became  an  absolute  ruin.  About 
1735-40  a  sort  of  Italian  temple  was  made  within  the  walls,  but  in 
1843  the  restoration  which  culminated  in  the  present  church  was 
begun.  The  architect  was  Mr.  Prichard,  to  whom  is  due  also  the  S.W. 


to  Milford.  BRIDGEND.  20.  Route.    197 

tower  (195  ft),  replacing  the  original  E.  E.  tower,  pulled  down  in 
1786.  —  The  cathedral  is  175  ft.  long,  and  72  ft.  wide.  The  daily 
services  are  at  10  a.m.  and  6  p.m.,  the  latter  choral. 

The  Exterior  of  the  building,  owing  to  the  lack  of  transepts,  suggests 
a  large  parish-church  rather  than  a  cathedral.  The  W.  facade,  however, 
the  central  part  of  which  belongs  to  the  E.  E.  edifice,  is'  fine,  and  has 
been  compared  to  those  of  Ripon  Cathedral  and  St.  Remi  at  Rheims.  Mr. 
Freeman  comments  on  the  satisfactory  etTect  produced  by  the  perspicuity 
of  its  construction,  which  is  in  no  way  disguised  by  the  ornamentation. 

The  *=Interior,  being  open  from  end  to  end,  is  very  impressive.  Among 
the  chief  points  of  interest  are  the  grand  late-Norman  *'Arch  between  the 
presbytery  and  the  Lady  Chapel;  the  'Altar-piece  by  Rosselti;  the  Lady 
Chapel;  the  Chapter  House,  which  is  of  very  unusual  form  (square,  with 
a  central  pillar);  the  monuments  of  Sir  David  Matthew^  standard-bearer 
of  Edward  IV.  (N.  aisle  of  presbytery)  and  Sir  William  Matthew  (d.  1528; 
N.  aisle  of  nave);  and  the  supposed  tomb  of  St.  Teilo .,  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  presbytery.  The  way  in  which  the  E.  bays  of  the  ritual  choir  are  blocked 
up  is  supposed  to  be  due  to  the  former  existence  of  a  pair  of  small  tran- 
septal  towers.  The  roof  throughout  is  modern;  so  also  is  the  stained  glass, 
which  includes  some  good  specimens  of  Morris.  —  In  the  churchyard 
is  a  Memorial  Cross  to  Dean  Conybeare  (d.  1857) ,  an  eminent  geologist. 
—  The  group  of  neat  modern  buildings  on  the  slope  above  the  cathedral 
include  the  Deanery  and  the  Canonry.  Adjacent  is  the  Cathedral  School, 
founded  by  Dr.  Vaughan,  Dean  of  Llandaff. 

Between  Cardiff  and  Llantrissant  the  train  crosses  the  Ely 
sixteen  times.  60  M.  St.  Fagans,  with  the  seat  of  Lord  Windsor, 
takes  its  name  from  an  early  missionary,  said  to  have  heen  sent 
from  Rome  in  A.  D.  180.  —  67  M.  Llantrissant  (Windsor  Arms), 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill  at  some  distance  to  the  N.  of  the 
station  ,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (6  M.)  Cowbrldge  (Bear) 
and  (11 V2  ^■)  Aberthaw,  on  the  coast  (fares  2s.,  is.  6d.,  1172^.). 

Cowbridge  and  Aberthaw  are  the  nearest  railway-stations  to  (5-51/2  M.) 
Llantwit  Major,  with  an  interesting  double  church,  dating  in  its  present  form 
from  the  13-14th  centuries.  It  represents,  however,  a  monastic  foundation  of 
the  5th  cent.,  to  which  was  attached  a  famous  College  ('the  first  Christian 
school  of  learning  in  Britain'),  where  Gildas,  Taliesin,  and  other  emin- 
ent Welshmen  were  educated.  The  epithet  of  'New  Church",  generally 
applied  to  the  E.  part  of  the  structure,  which  is  really  the  older,  is 
supposed  to  have  come  into  use  at  the  Reformation,  when  the  old  mon- 
astic church  became  the  'new'  parish- church.  —  Near  Llantwit  is  a 
ruined  castle  locally  known  as  the   Old  Place. 

On  the  coast,  about  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Llantwit.  is  St.  Donat's  Castle, 
a  picturesque  castellated  mansion  of  the  16th  cent.,  containing  some  fine 
wood-carving  by  Grinling  Gibbons.  A  room  is  shown  in  which  Arch- 
bishop Usher  found  shelter  in  1645-4(5. 

75V2  M.  Bridgend  {*Wyndham  Arms  ;  Bear,  Castle,  plain),  the 
junction  for  the  Llynfl  Valley  Railway  (to  Maesteg) ,  is  a  small 
town,  with  4750  inhab.  and  the  scanty  remains  of  a  Norman  castle. 

Visits  may  Ite  paid  to  Oginove  Castle,  a  Norman  fragment,  l^j-i  M.  to 
the  S.  W.  ;  to  the  (2  M.)  ruins  of  Ewenny  Priory,  founded  in  1146  and 
(according  to  Mr.  Freeman)  'perhaps  the  best  specimen  of  a  fortified  eccle- 
siastical building,  the  union  of  castle  and  monastery  in  the  same  struc- 
ture' ;  to  Coity  Castle  (13-14th  cent.)  and  Coity  Church  (good  window  tra- 
cery), 2  M.  to  the  N,  E. ;  and  to  Southerndown  (Marine),  a  small  watering- 
place,  and  Diinraven  Castle,  a  modern  mansion  finely  situated  on  a  rocky 
promontory,  5-6  M.  to  the  S.  Dunraven  is  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of 
a  royal  residence  of  Caractacua.  Near  it  are  the  Nash  Clifs,  a  fine  bit  of 
coast-acenerv. 


1  98    Route  26.  SWANSEA.  From  Gloucester 

From  (8IV2  M.)  Pyle  a  branch-line  runs  to  (31/2  M.)  Pcrthcawl 
(Esplanade,  well  spoken  of;  Portlicawl;  Marine),  a  rising  watering- 
place,  with  one  of  the  best  golf-courses  in  8.  Wales, 

Near  (88  M.)  Port  Talbot,  the  outlet  for  the  copper,  coal,  and 
iron  of  the  Vale  of  Afon ,  are  the  fine  mansion  and  grounds  of 
Margam  Abbey .  with  the  ruins  of  a  Cistercian  monastery  of  the 
12th  century.  To  Cymmer  and  Pontypridd,  see  p.  195.  —  917-2  ^^• 
Briton  Ferry,  the  port  of  Neath. 

94  M.  Neath  ('^Castle;  *Mackicorth;  Vale  of  Neath  Arms),  a  town 
with  ll.llSinhab.,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the -Yeatft  and  surrounded 
by  coal,  iron,  tin,  and  copper  works.  About  1  M.  to  the  N.  are  the 
ruins  of  \eath  Abbey,  founded  in  1111.  The  Castle,  of  which  only 
the  entrance-gate  and  towers  remain,  lies  to  the  right  of  the  station. 

From  Xeath  to  Meethtr  Ttdvil,  24  31.,  railway  in  174lir.  (fares3«.10c?., 
2s.  Qd.,  is.  lid.).  This  railway  ascends  the  beautiful  'Vale  of  Neath,  with 
uumerous  waterfalls,  wooded  ravines,  and  picturesque  crags.  The  finest 
falls  are  near  Pent  Neath  Vaughan  (Dinas  Hotel;  Angel),  where  the  ra- 
vines of  the  Neath ,  the  Hepste,  the  MelUe.  and  the  Perddyn,  each  con- 
taining a  series  of  falls,  converge.  Pont  Xeath  lies  3  M.  above  (7  M.)  Glyn 
Xeath\l^Si-aib  &  Flas,  2/431.  from  the  station),  the  nearest  railwav-station. 
—  I61/2  M.  Hirwain^i^.  196).  —  24  M.  Merthyr  lydvil,  see  p.  186.' 

From  Neath  to  Brecon,  see  R-.  27. 

On  leaAing  Neath  we  pass  the  ruins  of  the  castle  on  the  right, 
and  those  of  the  abbey  (a  little  farther  on)  on  the  left.  —  101  M. 
Landore  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of  the  short  line  to 
(1  M.)  Swansea,  lies  in  the  middle  of  a  district  blackened  and 
desolated  by  the  smoke  of  innumerable  copper-works. 

Swansea  (Royal;  Longlands;  Cameron  Arms;  Castle;  Mack- 
worth  ;  Mctropole,  now  building :  Grand  Temperance),  Welsh  Aber- 
tawe,  a  busy  town  of  100,000  inhab.,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tawe,  in  the  N.W.  angle  of  Su:a7isea  Bay,  is  the  chief  seat  of  the 
tin-plate  trade  of  England,  and  is  also  perhaps  the  most  important 
copper-smelting  centre  in  the  world. 

About  20,000  tons  of  copper  (valued  at  3-4 millions  sterling)  are  annu- 
ally produced  by  its  foundries.  Xo  copper  is  found  in  this  part  of  Wales, 
but  the  ore  is  brought  hither  from  Cornwall  and  foreign  countries  owing 
to  the  abundance  and  cheapness  of  fuel,  there  being  about  250  coal-pita 
within  a  radius  of  15  M.  This  abundance  has  also  led  to  the  erection  of 
numerous  iron,  zinc,  lead,  tin-plate,  and  other  manufactories,  while  the 
docks  are  entered  annually  bv  5000  vessels  with  a  burden  of  upwards  of 
2,000,000  tons.  About  2,000,000  tons  of  tin-plates,  value  3,000,000/,  are 
exported  annually,  while  the  total  value  of  the  trade  of  Swansea  (import 
and  export)  is  estimated  at  10-12  millions  sterling.  In  certain  states  of  the 
wind  Swansea  is  completely  enveloped  in  the  smoke  of  the  copper-works, 
which,  however,  is  said  to  be  less  unhealthy  than  one  would  suppose. 

The  scanty  remains  of  the  Castle  (14th  cent.)  are  hidden  among 
the  buildings  adjoining  the  Post  Office,  in  Castle  St.  ;  but  a  view 
of  the  fine  arcaded  parapet  (comp.  p.  213)  round  the  keep  may  be 
obtained  by  descending  the  narrow  lane  to  the  right.  In  Castle 
Square  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Lord  Swansea.  —  Near  the  Victoria 
Station  (L.  N.  W.)  and  the  extensive  Docks  is  the  Royal  Institute 
of  South  Wales,  containing  a  good  library,  an  art-collection,  and  a 


to  Milford.  THE  MUMBLES.  -26.  Route.    199 

museum  ,  iticluding  local  antiquities  and  ari  Egyptian  collection 
presented  by  Gen.  Sir  Francis  Grenfell  (adm.  Id.).  —  In  the 
Alexandra  lioad,  not  far  from  the  G.  W.  R.  Station,  is  the  Free 
Library  and  Institute  of  Science  and  Art.  The  Parish  Church  of  St. 
Mary  was  rebuilt  iu  1897;  the  Dec.  chancel,  the  reputed  work  of 
Bishop  Gower  (p. 21 3).  is  interesting,  and  contains  a  few  old  brasses 
and  monuments.  The  new  Market,  erected  at  a  cost  of  20,000^, 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  kingdom.  —  Permission  to  visit  one  of  the 
large  Copper  Works  at  Landore  is  generally  obtainable  on  previous 
application.  The  'tapping'  of  a  blast-furnace  at  night  is  an  impos- 
ing sight. 

A  good  general  view  of  Swansea  is  obtained  from  the  hill 
named  the  Graig ,  which  rises  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  G.  W.  R. 
Station.  To  reach  the  top  we  may  foUow  the  steep  road  named 
Mount  Pleasant,  bearing  to  the  right  beyond  the  Grammar  School 
and  leaving  the  Work  House  to  the  left.  —  Kilvey  Hill^  on  the 
opposite  (E.)  side  of  the  river,  is  also  a  good  point  of  view.  —  A 
fine  view  of  Swansea  Bay  is  obtained  from  the  end  of  the  V^.  Pier, 
which  is  2000  ft.  long. 

Steamers  ply  rcL^ularly  from  Swansea  to  Bristol,  Glasgow,  Liverpool, 
and  Belfast,  and  in  summer  to  Jlfracombe  (2  hrs.)  and  Padstow. 

From  Swansea  to  Brecon,  see  pp.  206,  207. 

From  Swansea  to  the  Mumbles  (Southend),  6^4  M.,  Steam 
Tramway,  starting  near  the  Victoria  Station  (p.  198),  hourly  during 
the  day  (fares,  1st  cl.  Id..  2nd  cl.  bd.,  return  9rf.,  T^  .^d.^  —  The  road 
skirts  the  sands  of  Swansea  Bay,  the  natural  beauty  of  which 
triumphs  over  many  disadvantages.  Near  Swansea  Bay  Station, 
St.  Helen's  Road,  the  steam-tramway  unites  with  the  horse-tramway 
from  Gower  St.  We  pass  (on  the  right)  the  Victoria  Park,  Swansea 
Cricket  Ground,  Swamea  Bay  Recreation  Ground,  and  Singleton^  the 
residence  of  Lord  Swansea.  On  the  left  is  a  fine  promenade  (benches) 
overlooking  the  sea.  At  (3  M.)  Black  Pill  is  the  Mumbles  Road 
Station  of  the  L.  N.  W.  Railway.  To  the  left  are  the  remains  of  a 
submerged  forest.  —  5  M.  Oystermouth  (see  below).  —  The  present 
terminus  is  at  (5^  4  M.)  Southend,  about  1/4  ^^-  from  the  hotels, 
but  the  line  is  being  extended  to  Bracelet  Bay  (Hotel  projected"), 
where  a  pier,  300  yds.  long,  is  approaching  completion.  Regular 
steamers  will  ply  hence  to  Bristol,  Cardiff,  Ilfracumbe,  Tenby,  etc. 
A  beautiful  marine  drive  has  also  been  carried  round  the  coast  from 
Southend  to  Bracelet  Bay  and  Langland  Bay  (p.  200). 

The  Mumbles  (;^Ship  4^-  Castle;  George;  lodgings)  is  a  small 
watering-place  which  has  developed  out  of  the  fishing-village  of 
Oystermouth  and  has  assumed  the  name  that  in  strict  parlance 
belongs  to  the  detached  rocks  off  the  S.  horn  of  Swansea  Bay  The 
name  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  tlie  resemblance  of  these  rocks 
to  projecting  breasts  (mammae).  The  oyster-beds  here  have  recently 
recovered  some  of  their  former  prosperity.  The  bathing  is  tolerable. 


200    Route  26.  GOWER.  From  Gloucester 

and  a  good  view  of  Swansea  is  enjoyed  across  the  bay;  but,  as  there 
is  nothing  of  special  interest,  the  traveller  had  better  sleep  at 
Langland  Bay  or  Caswell  Bay  (see  below;  pony  chaise  Is.  6d.-23. 
6d.),  visiting  Oystermouth  Castle  on  the  way.  A  visit  may  also  be 
paid  to  the  Lighthouse  on  Mumbles  Head. 

The  Mumbles  forms  the  usual  and  most  convenient  portal  to  the  *Gower 
Peninsula,  which  projects  from  the  S.W.  corner  of  Glamorganshire,  and 
is  about  15  M.  long  and  5-6  M.  broad.  The  whole  of  this  peninsula  is  pic- 
turesque enough  to  repay  a  stay  of  several  days;  but  the  finest  scenery, 
that  of  the  S.  coast,  may  be  fairly  explored  in  one  day"s  walk.  It  is  emphat- 
ically a  district  for  the  pedestrian,  as  beyond  the  railway-termini  there  is 
no  convenient  transport  for  visitors  (omnibuses,  see  below;  light  railway 
contemplated),  while  many  of  the  finest  points  are  inaccessible  except  on 
foot.  Inns  are  few  and  far  between,  and  those  who  explore  the  district 
thoroughly  must  now  and  again  be  content  with  farm-house  or  coast- 
guard accommodation.  Two-thirds  ofGower  are  occupied  by  the  English- 
speaking  descendants  of  Flemish  or  Norman  colonists,  who  have  cooped 
up  the  original  Welsh  inhabitants  in  the  N.  W.  corner  (comp.  p.  210).  The 
churches,  though  rudely  built,  possess  various  features  of  interest;  their 
towers,  resembling  those  of  Pembrokeshire  (p.  210),  combine  the  character 
of  a  campanile  and  a  stronghold.  The  student  of  mediseval  architecture 
should  provide  himself  with  Freemaii's  'Notes  on  the  Architectural  Anti- 
quities of  Gower'  (1850).  The  antiquarian  will  also  find  much  to  interest 
him  in  the  peninsula. 

The  railway-stations  nearest  to  the  centre  of  the  Peninsula  are  Llan- 
morlais,  to  theN.,  and  Killay ,  on  the  E.,  both  on  the  ramification  of 
the  L.  N.  W.  Railway  which  extends  hence  to  Craven  Arms  and  Shrews- 
bury (comp.  p.  202).  Omnibuses  also  ply  between  Swansea  and  several 
of  the  villages  in  Gower,  generally  leaving  Gower  early  in  the  morning 
and  returning  about  6  p.m. 

The  following  round  of  about  25  M.  from  the  Mumbles,  or  20  M.  from 
Caswell  Bay,  will  give  a  fairly  adequate  idea  of  Gower  scenery.  Ample 
time  (9-10  hrs.)  should  be  allowed  for  the  excursion,  as  some  of  the 
walking  is  rather  rough.  —  From  the  Oystermouth  tramway-station  (see 
p.  199)  we  follow  the  road  back  150  yds.  and  take  the  road  leading  inland 
(to  the  left),  past  Oystermouth  Castle^  a  picturesque  and  extensive  ruin  of 
the  14th  cent,  (small  fee  to  the  keeper).  At  the  top  of  the  hill,  a  few 
hundred  yards  farther,  just  beyond  the  school,  we  diverge  to  the  left  from 
the  direct  road  to  Caswell  Bay,  in  order  to  visit  the  pretty  little  (^4  M.) 
Langland  Bay  {-Langland  Bay  Hotel,  D.  4^. ;  Osborne;  Rolhersladt  Tem- 
perance; lodgings),  where  there  are  a  few  villas.  From  Langland  a  steep 
lane  leads  us  back  to  the  (^/j  M.)  main  road,  where  we  turn  to  the  leit. 
1  M.  Caswell  Bay  {Hotel,  unpretending,  R.,  B.,  &  A.  5«.)  is  a  charming 
little  sandy  cove,  flanked  with  rocks.  The  bathing  here  and  at  Langland 
Bay  is,  however,  rather  dangerous  on  account  of  the  strong  outward  cur- 
rents. From  the  hotel  we  follow  the  road  for  5  min.  more:  then  diverge 
to  the  left  through  the  bracken  and  gorse,  cross  a  stile,  and  descend  to 
(5  min.)  Brandy  Cove,  a  small  green  inlet  owing  its  name  to  smuggling 
traditions.  We  cross  this  cove  and  follow  the  path  leading  round  the  cliffs 
(easier  than  the  cart-track  over  the  top  of  the  promontory)  to  0/*  br.) 
Pwll-du  Bay  ('Poolth-dee";  Beaufort  Arms,  small),  with  its  curious  banks 
of  pebbles.  Fine  view  of  the  Pwll-du  Head ,  a  bold  mass  of  limestone  on 
the  other  side  of  the  bay.  [From  Pwll-du  a  path  leads  inland  through  the 
well- wooded  Bishopston  Valley  to  (2  M.)  Bishopston  (p.  202).]  From  the  inn 
we  ascend  a  rough  and  steep  track  to  (8-10  min.)  the  hamlet  of  High  Pen- 
nard,  where  we  take  a  lane  to  the  right  (inland),  following  it  to  the  left 
when  it  bends  and  regaining  the  cliff-track  near  (8  min.)  a  farmhouse,  with 
a  pond  in  front  of  it.  About  4  min.  beyond  the  farm  is  a  ruinous  stone  cattle- 
shed,  opposite  which  begins  a  faintly  marked  path,  descending  deviously 
to  the  left  to  Bacon  Hole,  a  cave  on  this  side  of  the  W.  promontory  of  the 
bay,  in  which  large  deposits  of  prehistoric  bonei  were  found  in  1850.  The 


to  Mil  ford.  GOWER.  26.  Route.     201 

limestone  cliffs  along  this  part  of  the  coast  are  very  fine.  We  now  return  to 
the  track  on  the  top  of  the  cliflfs  (though  experts ,  who  think  it  worth 
while,  may  follow  a  difficult  and  even  dangerous  path  along  their  face  to 
two  other  caves)  and  in  about  10  min.  reach  another  stone  hut,  in  a  line 
with  which,  to  the  left,  is  Minchin  Head  ^  easily  recognised  by  the  knob 
of  white  limestone  at  the  top.  Below  this  knob  is  Minchin  Hole,  a  cave 
extending  into  the  rock  for  a  distance  of  170  ft.  The  descent  to  it,  over 
slippery  turf,  requires  caution  and  a  steady  head,  but  those  who  do  not 
care  for  this  scramble  should  not  miss  the  *View  of  the  coast  from  the 
top  of  the  promontory. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  track  over  the  head  of  the  cliffs,  we  cross 
the  elastic  turf  of  Pennard  Burrows  and  soun  come  in  sight  of  the  large 
Union  Workhouse,  on  the  slope  of  Cefn  Bryn.  In  ^/4  hr.  we  see  the  hamlet 
of  James  Green  to  the  right,  and  in  5  min,  more  the  ruin  of  Pennard 
Castle.  To  the  left  the  clifis  here  recede,  leaving  room  for  the  sandy  bay 
of  Shire  Combe.  At  low  tide  we  may  descend  to  the  beach  and  pass  through 
the  natural  archway  at  the  W.  end  of  this  bay,  but  at  high  tide  we  must 
cross  the  neck  to  reach  ''Three  Cliff's  Bay.  The  origin  of  the  name  appears 
when  we  look  back  at  the  rocks  separating  it  from  Shire  Combe  Bay.  A 
small  stream  here  enters  the  sea.  Three  Cliffs  Bay  is  bounded  on  the  W. 
by  a  fine  promontory  called  the  High  Tor,  which  may  be  rounded  at  low 
water.  On  the  other  side  extend  the  beautiful  sands  of  Oxwich  Bay.,  along 
which  we  can  walk  all  the  way  to  ('2  M.)  the  church  (a  typical  example 
of  a  Guwer  church)  and  parsonage  of  Oxwich,  nestling  under  the  cliffs  at 
the  W.  extremity.  Here  also  is  a  coastguard's  cottage,  where  refreshments 
and  a  bed  may  be  obtained.  Amid  the  woods  to  the  right,  as  we  cross 
the  bay,  are  visible  the  village,  church,  and  old  castle  of  Penrice.  The 
village  of  Oxwich  lies  a  little  inland  (to  the  N.)  of  the  church,  while  Ox- 
wich Castle  (16th  cent.),  now  incorporated  with  a  farm-house,  stands  on 
the  top  of  the  cliffs. 

[Those  who  do  not  care  to  see  the  Culver  Hole  (see  below),  or  to  go  on 
to  the  Worms  Head,  may  turn  inland  at  Oxwich  and  proceed  via  Pen-y- 
Hitch  and  Reynoldston  to  (51/2  M.)  Arthur  s  Stone  (p.  202).] 

From  Oxwich  we  may  ascend  the  rough  road  passing  to  the  right  of 
the  castle  ,  and  then  descend  through  the  village  of  Slade,  to  Port  Eynon 
Bay,  another  level  expanse  of  sand.  A  walk  of  3/4  hr.  from  Oxwich  brings 
us  to  Port  Eynon  (Inn,  small)  where  primitive  summer-quarters  and  good 
bathing  may  be  had.  Here  a  boy  may  be  engaged  to  show  the  way  to 
Culver  Hole,  an  interesting  cavern  on  the  other  side  of  the  promontory 
bounding  Port  Eynon  Bay  on  the  W.  From  a  point  on  the  top  of  the 
cliff  an  easy  zigzag  path  winds  down  the  grassy  slope  to  the  cave,  but  the 
last  part  of  the  descent  is  unpleasant  for  ladies. 

[The  walk  along  the  cliffs  from  Port  Eynon  to  (8-9  M.)  the  Worms 
Head,  passing  the  Paviland  Caves  and  ^'Mewslade  Bay,  is  very  fine,  but 
would  necessitate  another  day  in  Gower.  The  ^Worms  Head ,  perhaps 
the  grandest  piece  of  rock -scenery  in  the  peninsula,  consists  of  a  long 
narrow  promontory,  stretching  into  the  sea  for  about  1  M.  and  quite 
detached  from  the  mainland  at  high-water.  Near  the  point  is  a  curious 
'Blow  Hole',  resembling  the  Devil's  Bellows  at  Kynance  Cove  (p.  147),  and 
making  a  sharp  whistling  sound  when  the  wind  or  sea  is  high.  —  Visi- 
tors to  the  Worms  may  obtain  accommodation  at  a  farm-house  at  Rhossily, 
a  village  about  1  M.  from  the  neck  of  the  headland.  Rhossily  is  6  M.  by 
road  from  Reynoldston  (p.  202),  at  which  is  the  nearest  decent  inn.] 

Starting  from  Port  Eynon  on  our  return-journey,  we  walk  across  the 
sand-hills  to  (■^U  31.)  the  village  of  Horton ,  which  we  see  in  front  of  us. 
Thence  we  follow  the  road  in  a  straight  (X.  E.)  direction  to  (2  M.)  Penrice 
(comp.  above),  with  its  church,  and  beyond  it  make  a  rapid  descent,  at 
the  foot  of  which  is  the  iron  gate  of  the  avenue  to  Penrice  House.  To 
visit  the  ivy-clad  ruins  of  Penrice  Castle  (permission  necessary),  dating  in 
part  from  the  12th  cent.,  we  pass  through  this  gate,  leaving  the  grounds 
at  the  other  end  of  the  avenue  by  the  lodge  on  the  main  road  to  Swansea. 

[Those  who  wish  to  visit  Arthur's  Stone,  the  best-known  cromlech  in 
Gower,  here  turn  to  the  left,  and  then,  at  (1/4  M.)  the  cross-roads,  where 


202     Route  '26.  LLANELLY.  From  Gloucester 

there  is  a  building,  curiously  supported  on  stone  props,  to  the  right.  Our 
road  crosses  the  ridge  of  "Cefn  Brvn  and  leads  to  (1  M.)  the  road  from 
Reynoldston  to  Killay  (p.  !i-0),  at  a  point  near  a  so-called  'Holy  Weir. 
Hence  we  proceed  to  the  left  for  1/3  M.,  and  then  leave  the  road  by  a 
grass-track  to  visit  Arthur's  Stone,  which  lies  on  the  moor  about  Vs  M. 
to  the  right.  The  cap-stone  of  this  large  cromlech  is  14  ft.  long,  and 
weighs  25  tons.  Arthur  s  Stone  is  about  4'/2  M.  from  Llanmorlais  (p.  200). 
—  In  returning  we  may  vary  the  route  by  proceeding  to  the  W.  to  (1  M.) 
Reynoldston  ('Arthurs  Stone  Hotel,  unpretending),  where  the  road  turns 
to  the  S.  and  soon  reaches  (2/4  M.)  the  Swansea  road,  at  a  point  about 
11/2  M.  to  the  W,  of  that  at  which  we  quitted  it.] 

For  Caswell  Bay  we  turn  to  the  right  on  reaching  the  Swansea  road 
(see  p.  201).  After  about  1  M.  we  pass  the  interesting  church  of  Nichol- 
aston  (recently  restored  at  a  cost  of  10,0002.)  on  the  right,  and  i  M.  farther 
on  reach  the  houses  of  Penmaen^  with  the  West  Grower  Workhouse  (p.  201) 
above  us  on  the  left.  At  (V4  M.)  Penmaen  Chvrch,  now  of  no  interest  through 
unskilful  restoration,  a  road  diverging  to  the  left  leads  to  the  summit  of 
Cefn  Bryn  (690  ft. ;  'View).  Our  road  descends  past  Park-le-Breos  (Hon. 
Aubrey  Vivian),  in  the  grounds  of  which  is  a  neolithic  tumulus,  to  (1  M.) 
the  village  of  Park  Mill  ^  ^/-z  M.  beyond  which  are  the  new  Schools,  the 
mouth  of  the  Jlston  Valley,  and  the  small  Gower  Inn,  a  convenient 
centre  for  several  excursions.  Pennard  Castle  (p.  201)  lies  about  1  M.  to 
the  S.  Beyond  the  Gower  Inn  the  road  ascends  past  Eilvrough  House  to 
(IV2  M.)  a  lime-kiln  (on  the  left).  Here  we  quit  the  road  by  a  gate  on 
the  right  and  follow  a  path,  which  crosses  fields,  stiles,  and  another  road, 
to  (3/4  M.)  Kittle.  At  Kittle  we  join  the  road  which  descends  to  the  bottom 
of  the  valley  and  then  ascends  steeply  to  (V4  M.)  Bishopstvn  (Inn).  (Walk 
through  the  valley  to  the  sea,  see  p.  2C0.)  Passing  through  Bishopston,  we 
follow  the  road  for  1  M.  farther,  and  turn  to  the  left  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  where  it  strikes  another  road  at  right  angles.  A  few  hundred  yards 
farther  on,  by  a  stone  wall ,  we  turn  to  the  right  and  follow  the  road  to 
(3/4  M.)  Caswell  Bay  (p.  200). 

From  the  point  at  which  we  quitted  it  (see  above),  the  road  to 
(7  M.)  Swansea  runs  to  the  N.E.  to  (3  M.)  Killay  Station,  and  then  almost 
due  E.  to  (2  M.)  Sketty  and  (2  M.)  Swansea  (p.  198). 


After  leaving  Landore  (p.  198)  the  train  penetrates  a  tunnel 
and  near  (105  M.)  Gowerton  intersects  the  L.N.W.  line  from  Cra- 
ven Arms  to  Swansea  (comp.  p.  200).  —  To  the  right,  at  (lOT^/o  ^1-) 
Loughor ,  are  the  ruins  of  a  Norman  castle.  We  then  cross  the 
estuary  of  the  Llicchwr  (Loughor),  or  Burry. 

lll'/o  M.  Llanelly  (Stepney  Arms),  a  manufacturing  town  and 
mineral  port,  with  '24,000  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Llan- 
dilo  (p.  208)  and  Llandovery  (p.  207).  —  Beyond  Llanelly  the 
train  quits  the  mineral  district,  and  the  scenery  improves.  The 
line  is  carried  along  the  shore  on  an  embankment.  —  iib^joM. 
Pembrey  and  Burry  Port,  with  large  copper-works.  —  120  M.  Kid- 
xcelly  (Pelican),  pleasantly  situated  on  Carmarthen  Bay,  with  a 
picturesque  ruined  castle  (14th  cent.)  and  an  interesting  church 
(Dec).  —  The  train  now  ascends  the  left  bank  of  the  estuary  of  the 
Touy.  From  (124 1/2  J^I-)  Ferryside  (White  Lion),  a  small  seaside 
resort,  we  have  a  good  view  of  the  ruins  of  Llanstephan  Castle,- 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  estuary. 

Walkers  may  follow  the  coast  from  Llanstephan  (ferry  3d.)  to  (19  M.) 
Tenby  (p.  210),  via  (3V2  M.)  Laugharne  (pron.  'Lame'),  with  an  old  castle, 
still  inhabited,  (41/2  31.)  Pendine.  (51/2  M.)  Amroth.  and  (3  51.)  Saundersfoot. 


to  Milford.  HAVERFORDWEST.  '26.  Route.    203 

From  Ferryside  the  train  ascends  along  the  Towy  (views) 
to  (130  M.)  Carmarthen  Junction  (Hail.  Refreshment  lioonis),  the 
junction  for  (1  M.)  Carmarthen,  Lampeter,  and  Aherystwith  (see 
p.  209).  We  have  a  good  view,  to  the  right,  of  the  Vale  of  Towy  and 
the  town  of  Carmarthen.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Towy.  139  M. 
St.  Clears  (Station  Hotel)  was  the  centre  of  the  'Rebecca  Riots'  of 
1843,  the  object  of  which  was  the  abolition  of  turnpike  -  gates. 
(The  name  is  an  allusion  to  Gen.  xxiv.  60.) 

145  M.  Whitland  (Yelverton  Arms)  is  the  junction  of  lines  to 
Tenby  and  Pembroke  (see  K.  29)  and  to  Cardigan. 

From  Whitland  to  Cardigan,  27'/2  M.  ,  in  IV2  hr.  (45.  6<i. ,  3*.,  2a. 
3^hd.).  This  line  ascends  the  prettily-wooded  valley  of  the  Afon  Taf.  — 
I6V2  M.  Crymmych  Arms  is  the  nearest  railway -station  for  (11  M.)  New- 
port (Llwyngair  Arms;  Commercial),  to  which  a  coach  plies  daily  (fare 
2s.  Qd.).  Coach  from  Newport  to  Fishguard  and  Haverfordwest,  see 
below.  Crvinmvch  Arms  is  also  the  starting-point  for  a  walk  along 
the  Precely  Bills  to  (6V2  M.)  Frecely  Top  (1735  ft.),  the  highest  point 
iu  Pembrokeshire.  —  Beyond  Crymmych  Arms  the  train  crosses  the  cul- 
minating point  of  the  line  (690  ft")  and  descends  (fine  views  of  the  coast) 
to  (2OV2  M.)  Boncath  and  (24  M.)  Kilgerran.  the  latter  with  a  ruined  castle 
(13th  cent.),  on  a  high  cliti"  overlooking  the  most  picturesque  part  of  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Tdji.  —  271/2  M.  Cardigan  (Black  Lion),  a  small  and 
dull  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Teifi^  with  3450  inhab.  and  the  scanty 
remains  of  an  old  castle.  A  coach  runs  hence  twice  dnily  through  the 
pretty  valley  of  the  Teifi,  passing  the  picturesque  ravine  at  the  Henllan 
Falls,  to(10"M.)  Newcastle  I'm^yn  (Salutation  Hotel),  a  good  fishing-station, 
and  (19  JJ.)  Llandyssil  (p. 209).  The  road  running  northwards  to  (20  M.) 
New  Quay  (p.  209)  and  (23  M.)  Aberayron  (p.  209)  offers  few  attractions  to 
the  tourist,  but  some  of  the  coast  scenery  is  fine. 

Beyond  Whitland  the  Precely  Hills  (see  above)  are  visible  to 
the  right.  —  150  M.  Clynderwen. 

Clynderwen  is  the  junction  of  a  short  branch- railway  (17V2  M. ;  fares 
3s.  9rf.,  I*-.  Qd.)  to  Let tersto II ,  about  to  be  continued  to  (5  M.;  coach  Is.) 
Fishguard  (  WyncUffe ;  Commercial;  Great  Western),  a  small  town  in  a  land- 
locked bay.  near  Strumhle  Head.,  on  which  a  French  force  of  1400  men 
landed  in  1797,  only  to  be  captured  by  the  local  militia.  Ooodwlc,  1  M. 
from  Fishguard,  is  a  small  watering-place.  The  neighbourhood  abounds 
in  meinihirion  ,  cromlechs ,  crosses  ,  and  other  antiquities.  Coach  from 
Fishguard  to  Haverfordwest,  see  below.  From  Fishguard  we  may  follow 
the  coiist  to  the  N."  to  (7  M.)  Newport  (coach,  see  above),  Cardigan  (see 
above),  etc. 

162  M.  Haverfordwest  {* Castle ;  Salutation,  commercial),  on 
the  Cleddaa,  with  G179  inhab.  and  the  shell  of  an  old  castle.  The 
interesting  Church  of  St.  Mary  contains  a  good  effigy  of  a  pilgrim 
(16th  cent.).  Near  the  river  are  the  ruins  of  an  Augustine  Priory 
(E.E.).  Haverfordwest  was  the  capital  of  the  Flemish  colony  settled 
in  Pembroke  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent,  (see  p.  210). 

About  41/2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  is  ==^Picton  Castle  (order  obtained  at  the 
estate-office  in  Haverfordwest),  an  admirable  specimen  of  the  fastness  of 
a  Norman  baron  of  the  11th  cent.,  though  somewhat  marred  by  modern 
additions.  It  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  park.  —  Coaches  ply  from 
Haverfordwest  to  (16  M.)  St.  David's  (see  p.  215l,  to  (15  M.)  Fishguard  (fare 
2s.  6d.;  see  above)  and  (22  M.)  Newport  (fare  3s.  6d.;  see  above),  and 
to  (7  M.)  Little  Haven  (fiire  Is.  6d.). 

As  the  train  leaves  Haverfordwest  we  obtain  good  views  of  the 


204   Route  27.  HAY.  From  Hereford 

castle  and  priory  to  the  right.  At  (167  M.)  Johnston  Junction  the 
line  forks ,  one  branch  going  to  (170  M.)  Milford  and  the  other  to 
(171  M.)  New  Milford.  As  we  approach  the  former  we  see  the  scanty 
ruins  of  Pill  Priory  in  a  valley  to  the  right, 

Milford  (Lord  Nelson),  a  town  with  4070  inhab.,  lies  about 
6  M.  above  the  mouth  of  Milford  Haven ,  a  splendid  harbour,  in 
which  the  whole  English  navy  could  ride  securely  at  anchor. 
It  was  formerly  a  considerable  seaport,  and  it  is  frequently  men- 
tioned in  Shakespeare's  'Cymbeline';  but  the  attempts  of  modern 
enterprise  and  capital  to  revive  its  importance  have  hitherto  re- 
sulted only  in  a  conglomeration  of  large  but  deserted  docks,  quays, 
and  lines  of  railway.  On  a  building  near  the  station  is  a  tablet 
recording,  in  amusingly  pompous  language,  the  visit  of  George  IV. 
in  1821.  Henry  VII.  landed  here  in  1485,  as  Earl  of  Richmond, 
on  his  way  to  claim  the  crown. 

New  Milford  or  Neyland  (*South  Wales  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from 
3s.  6d.),  which  lies  a  little  farther  up  the  Haven,  directly  opposite 
Pembroke  Dock  (p.  214),  is  the  terminus  of  the  G.  W.  Railway 
and  the  starting-point  of  steamers  to  Waterford  and  Cork.  Steam 
Ferry  to  Pembroke  Dock  (Hobbes  Point,  p.  214)  2d.,  return- fare  Sd. 

Pleasant  boating-excursions  may  be  made  in  *Milford  Haven,  and  its 
various  ramifications  explored.  In  fine  weather  a  boat  is  the  best  means 
of  passing  from  the  one  Milford  to  the  other;  but  the  road  (5  M.)  is  also 
not  unattractive.     The  Haven  is  protected  by  fortifications. 

27.  From  Hereford  to  Brecon  and  Swansea. 

Midland  Railway  from  Hereford  to  (38  M.)  Brecon  in  l^/*  hr.  (fares  5s., 
3s.  iynd.);  to  (78  M.)  Swansea  in  4  hrs.  (fares  iU.  id.,  65.  51/2^.).  This 
route  traverses  much  of  the  finest  scenery  in  South  Wales,  and  a  visit 
to  the  Upper  Valley  of  the  Wye  (see  below)  may  be  combined  with  it. 

The  train  starts  from  the  Barton  Station  (see  p.  180).  Near 
(9  M.)  Moorhampton  a  well-preserved  portion  of  Offas  Dyke  (p.  268) 
is  visible.  At  (ISi/o  M.)  Eardisley  a  line  diverges  to  Kington,  Pre- 
steign,  and  New  Radnor.  Beyond  (17  M.)  Whitney  we  cross  the  Wye 
andpass  Clifford  Castle,  the  traditional  birthplace  of  'Fair  Rosamond'. 

21  M.  Hay  (Crown;  Blue  Boar),  an  old  Norman  border-town, 
with  2000  inhab.  and  the  scanty  remains  of  a  castle.  The  name, 
like  the  Hague  in  Holland,  means  a  hedge  or  enclosure  (French  haie). 
The  station  here  is  in  England  (Herefordshire)  and  the  town  in 
Wales  (Breconshire).  Those  who  wish  to  explore  the  Upper  Wye 
(see  below)  on  foot  may  begin  at  Hay,  and  a  pleasant  walk  may 
also  be  taken  to  the  S.  across  the  Black  Mts.  to  (12  M.)  Llanthony 
(p.  192).  —  241/2  M.  Olasbury.     Good  view  of  the  Wye  Valley. 

26  M.  Three  Cocks  Junction  (Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms;  Three 
Cocks  Inn,  V2  M.  to  the  E.)  is  the  junction  for  the  Mid-Wales  Rail- 
way (Cambrian )  through  the  Upper  Valley  of  the  Wye.  To  the  left 
rise  the  Black  Mountains  (p.  192). 

Fkom  Three  Cocks  Junction  to  Moat  Lane,  48  M.,  Cambrian  Railway 
in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  6*.  4d.,  is.).   This  line  follows  the  tipper  course  of  the  Wye, 


to  Swansea.  BRECON.  27.  Route.     205 

the  beautiful  scenery  of  which  is,  however,  best  explored  by  the  ped- 
estrian. —  From  (7  M.)  Boughrood  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  Craig  Pwll  Dti., 
or  rock  of  the  black  pit,  below  which  is  a  waterfall  25  ft.  high.  —  O'/z  M. 
Aberedw,  at  the  month  of  the  romantic  glen  of  the  Edw ,  with  an  old 
church.  —  14  M.  Builth  or  Builth  Wells  (Lion;  Crown).,  a  small  town 
with  chalybeate  and  sulphur  springs  and  the  earthworks  of  a  castle. 
About  21/2  M.  to  the  W.  is  Cwm  Llewelyn,  where  Llewelyn,  the  last  native 
Prince  of  Wales,  was  defeated  and  slain  by  the  English  in  1282.  —  At 
(16  M.)  Llechvyd  Junction  (Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms)  our  line  intersects  the 
Central  Wales  Railway  (L.N.  W. •,  Builth  Road  station;  not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  Mid-Wales  Railway)  from  Craven  Arms  to  Carmarthen  ^nH  Swansea 
(comp.  p.  207).  —  20  M.   Newhridge-on-Wye   (New   Inn);   24  M.   Doldowlod. 

26V2  M.  Rhayader  (Lion),  a  small  town  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Wye  and  surrounded  by  lofty  hills.  *Cirm  Elan,  or  valley  of  the  Elan, 
5  Ji.  to  the  S.  W.,  is  a  beautiful  little  glen;  1  M.  farther  on  is  Nant  Gwyllt, 
occupied  by  Shelley  after  his  marriage  with  Harriet  Westbrook.  A  large 
reservoir  has  been  formed  higher  up  the  valley,  whence  the  water  of  the 
Elan  and  the  Claerwen  is  conveyed  to  Birmingham.  —  The  train  now 
leaves  the  Wye  and  runs  to  the  N.,  passing  the  flannel-making  town  (2574 
inhab.)  of  (30V2  M.)  Llanidloes  (Trewythan  Arms),  to  (48  M.)  Moat  Lane, 
where   it   reaches   the  line   from  Shrewsbury  to  Aberystwith  (see  p.  267). 

From  Rhayader  the  walker  may  follow  up  the  Wye  to  its  (18  M.) 
source  on  the  slopes  of  Plinlimmon  (2460  ft.),  halfway  to  Aberystwith 
(p.  270).  There  are  few  pleasanter  walking-tours  of  a  week's  duration 
in  England  than  that  atlorded  by  a  descent  of  the  Wye  from  the  source  to 
the  mouth,  a  distance  of  130  M.  The  lower  course,  from  Ross  to  Chep- 
stow, is  described  at  p.  175  et  seq. 

29  M.  Talgarth  (Ashburnham  Arms).  The  Brecon  Beacons  (p.  206) 
now  come  into  view  on  the  left.  On  the  same  side  is  Llyn  Safadden 
or  Llangorse  Pool.  —  831/2  M.  Talyllyn  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  junction 
of  a  line  to  Dowlais  and  Merthyr  Tydvil  (p.  196).  We  now  pass 
through  a  tunnel,  on  emerging  from  which  we  have  a  fine  view  of 
the  lJ»k  ,  with  the  Brecon  Beacons  in  the  background.  To  the 
right,  as  we  enter  Brecon  station,  is  the  Memorial  College,  erected 
in  commemoration  of  the  Nonconforming  clergy  of  1662. 

38  M.  Brecon  or  Brecknock  (Castle,  R.&A.  As.;  Wellington),  the 
capital  of  Breconshire  or  Brecknockshire,  is  a  town  of  5794  inhab., 
charmingly  situated  in  a  depression  at  the  confluence  of  the  Vsk  and  the 
Honddu.  In  the  Ely  Tower,  a  fragment  of  the  old  castle,  in  the  garden 
of  the  Castle  Hotel,  took  place  the  famous  conference  between  the 
Bishop  of  Ely  and  the  Duke  of  Buckingham  which  resulted  in  the 
overthrow  of  Richard  III.  The  top  commands  a  good  view  of  the 
Beacons.  —  The*  Priory  Church  of  St.  John  (keys  keptin  a  white  cot- 
tage to  the  left  of  the  entrance;  fee  6rf.),  a  good  E. E.  and  Dec. 
edifice,  with  a  massive  tower,  has  been  well  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott. 
Freeman  considers  it  the  noblest  specimen  of  a  class  of  churches 
not  uncommon  in  Wales,  where  massiveness  of  effect  is  produced 
by  simplicity  of  construction.  It  is  reached  by  the  bridge  over  the 
Honddu,  and  on  the  way  to  it  we  pass  part  of  the  embattled  wall  of 
the  old  priory.  —  About  ^/-i^l'  beyond  the Llanfaes Bridge,  crossing 
the  Usk,  is  Christ  College,  with  a  good  E.  E.  chapel,  formerly  be- 
longing to  a  Dominican  priory.  The  house  in  the  High  St.  in  which 
Mrs.  Siddons  (1755-1831)  was  born  bears  an  appropriate  tablet. 


206     Route  27.  BRECON. 

The  Priory  Walk,  on  the  Honddu,  and  the  Captain's  Walk,  on  the 
Usk,  are  two  pleasantly  shaded  promenades. 

An  admirable  view  of  Brecon  and  the  Beacons  is  obtained  from  the  top 
of  Pen-y-Orug,  a  hill  IV2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town.  To  reach  it  we  turn 
to  the  right  beyond  the  Castle  Hotel  and  pass  the  (^/iSl.)  Cemetery.  About 
'/a  M.  farther  on,  a  little  beyond  the  milestone,  we  take  a  path  leading 
across  a  field  to  Pen-y-Crug  Farm;  passing  through  the  farm-yard,  we 
reach  the  open  hillside  and  in  10  min.  more  gain  the  top,  where  there 
are  distinct  remains  of  an  ancient  camp.  —  Another  good  point  of  view 
is  Slwch  Tump,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  reached  by  following  Free 
St.  from  the  station  and  passing  under  the  line. 

Another  pleasant  object  for  a  short  walk  is  afforded  by  the  Frwdgrech 
Waterfalls.  We  cross  the  Llanfae.s  Bridge  (p.  205),  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
town,  and  continue  in  a  straight  direction,  along  the  Llandovery  Road, 
passing  a  toll-gate,  to  (1/3  M.)  a  point  where  the  road  forks.  We  turn  to 
the  left  and  beyond  (2/3  M.)  Frwdgrech  Lodge  (on  the  leftj  cross  a  bridge, 
on  the  other  side  of  which  are  three  roads.  We  follow  that  in  the  centre 
and  reach  (3/4  M.)  the  bridge  crossing  the  stream  which  forms  the  falls, 
one  immediately  below  and  the  other  a  little  above  the  bridge.  The  falls 
are  small,  but  their  setting  is  pretty. 

The  twin  peaks  of  the  'Brecknock  or  Brecon  Beacons,  rising  5  M.  to 
the  S.  of  Brecon,  are  the  highest  peaks  in  S.  Wales,  and  among  the  most 
gracefully-shaped  mountains  in  the  kingdom.  The  direct  route  from  Brecon 
to  the  top  takes  walkers  3-4  hrs.,  but  driving  is  practicable  to  Blaengwdi 
Farm  (see  below).  As  far  as  (IV4  M.)  the  bridge  beyond  Frwdgrech  Lodge, 
see  above.  Here  we  take  the  road  to  the  left  and  ascend  to  (11/2  M.) 
Blaengwdi  Farm.  Beyond  the  farm  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  Vs  M.  far- 
ther on  follow  a  narrow  lane  to  the  left,  which  brings  xis  to  the  W.  part 
of  a  shoulder  extending  to  the  (1V2-2  hrs.)  top  of  'Pen-y-Fan  (2910  ft.),  the 
loftier  peak.  —  An  alternative  route  from  Brecon  leads  to  the  left  at  the 
turnpike-gate.  Vs  M.  beyond  the  Llanfaes  Bridge  (p.  205),  and  follows  the 
highroad  to  ("21/2  M  )  Pant  Farm^  beyond  which  we  turn  to  the  right.  — 
Many,  however,  prefer  to  ascend  from  (14  M.)  Torpantau,  a  station  on  the 
line  to  Merthyr  (see  p.  196),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Beacons,  and  to  descend 
by  one  of  the  above  routes.  The  Beacons,  however,  do  not  show  to  advan- 
tage from  the  S.,  and  the  pleasantest  part  of  this  route  is  the  descent.  — 
The  'A^iew  from  the  top  include?  the  Black  Mis.  on  the  E.,  the  Carmarthen 
^'an  on  the  W.,   and  the  Valley  of  the  Usk  and  Llangorse  Pool  to  the  N. 

Among  other  points  for  easy  excursions  from  Brecon  are  (6  M.)  Llan- 
gorse Pool  (see  p.  205),  a  great  resort  of  anglers  :  Y  Caer  Bannau,  the  old 
Roman  camp  of  Bannium,  2V2  M.  to  the  W.  ^  and  (9  M.)  Bwlch,  reached  by 
a  beautiful  walk  or  drive  throiigh  the  Usk  valley,  or  from  (7  M.)  Taly- 
hont  station,  on  the  Merthyr  line  (p.  196). 

As  the  train  leaves  Brecon  we  have  another  beautiful  view  of 
the  Beacons  and  the  Usk.  4OV2  -^l-  Cradoc,  3/^  M.  to  the  N.  of  Y 
Caer  Bannau  (see  above)  ;  42  M.  Aberbran.  —  467-2  M.  Devynock 
(Usk  and  Railway ;  Pont  Senny  ;  Bull),  a  pleasantly  situated  village, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Senny  and  the  Usk. 

A  drive,  traversing  some  of  the  prettiest  scenery  in  South  Wales,  and 
passing  from  the  valley  of  the  Usk  to  that  of  the  Toicy,  may  be  taken  from 
Devynock  to  (I2V2  il.)  Llandovery  (see  p.  207),  but  there  is  no  public  con- 
veyance. 3  M.  Trecastle  (Black  Horse  ^  Three  Horseshoes).  Farther  on,  the 
road  winds  through  the  romantic  pass  of  Cwm  Dwr,  and  near  Llandovery 
it  crosses  the  little  river  Bran. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  S.  and  begins  to  ascend  through  a 
bleak  and  wild  valley.  The  Carmarthen  Van  rises  to  the  right.  Just 
beyond  (561/2  ^^I-)  PenxcylU ,  in  the  valley  below  us  to  the  right, 
lies  Craig-y-Nos ,  the  Welsh  home  of  Adelina  Patti  (Mme.  Nicor 


LLANDOVERY.  28.  Route.     207 

lini),  with  a  large  winter-garden  and  a  theatre.  Near  Penwyllt  we 
cross  the  watershed  and  begin  the  descent  into  the  valley  of  the 
Taxve.  —  At  (60  M.)  Colbren  Junction  the  line  to  Neath  (p.  198) 
diverges  to  the  left.  Farther  on  we  have  a  retrospect  of  the  Carmar- 
then Van  on  the  right.  —  78  M.  Swansea  (Midland  Stat.),  see  p.  198. 


88.   From  Craven  Arms  to  Llandrindod,  Llandovery, 
and  Carmarthen. 

84  M.  Central  Wales  Kailway  (L.N.W.)  in  3-4V4  hrs.  (fares  Us. 
8d.,  9«.,  Is.'^hd).  —  Through-carriages  run  by  this  route,  parts  of  which 
are  verj-  picturesque,  from  Manchester  and  Liverpool  to  Swansea  and  Tenby, 
and  from  London  to  Tenby. 

Craven  Arms,  p.  181.  —  W/i^l-  Knighton  (Norton  Arms  ;  Swan), 
6V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Presteign  (p. 204),  the  county-town  of  Radnor- 
shire. Offas  Dyke  (p.  268)  passes  through  Knighton.  —  At(15M.) 
Knucklas  we  quit  the  valley  of  the  Teme  and  near  (19  M.)  Llangun- 
llo  cross  the  watershed  (975  ft.)  between  that  river  and  the  Wye. 
—  29  M.  Penybont,  5i/2  M.  from  Abbey  Civmhir  (see  below). 

32  M.  Llandrindod  Wells  (Rock  House,  pens.  85.  6d. ;  Old 
Pump  House;  Llanerch;  Bridge;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  pleasant 
inland  watering-place  on  the  Ithon,  with  chalybeate  and  saline 
springs.  Spa  Grounds  have  been  laid  out  adjoining  the  springs, 
and  there  is  a  small  lake  for  boating.   The  Ithon  affords  fair  angling. 

Fine  view  from  the  top  of  the  Little  Hill  (850  ft.),  to  the  E.  of  the 
village.  Drives  may  be  taken  to  (10  M.)  Cwmhir  A'jbep  (Cistercian;  12th 
cent.),  to  (12  M.)  Rhayader  (p.  20."^),  to  (8  31.)  BuiHh  (p.  205),  etc. 

Beyond  Llandrindod  the  train  descends  to  (371/2  ^l-)  Builth 
Road,  where  the  line  intersects  the  Mid-Wales  Railway  from  Three 
Cocks  to  Llanidloes  (p.  205).  For  Builth  Wells,  see  p.  205.  — 
Farther  on  we  cross  the  Wye  and  ascend  again.  Just  beyond 
(391/2  M.)  Cilmery  we  pass  the  glen  of  Cwm  Llewelyn  (p.  205). 
441/2  M.  Llangammarch  Wells  (Lake  Hotel),  with  a  mineral  spring. 

48  M.  Llanwrtyd  Wells  (Dol-y-Coed,  at  the  Wells,  1  M.  from 
the  station,  pens.  7-8s. ;  Neuadd  Arms,  Bellevue,  in  the  village, 
2/3  M.  from  the  station;  Askomel  Arms,  at  the  station),  another 
prettily-situated  little  spa,  with  sulphur  and  chalybeate  springs. 

Excursinns  may  be  made  to  the  top  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  (1000  ft.);  to 
(5'/2  M.)  Abergwessin  (Grouse  Inn),  with  a  handsome  modern  church  ;  to 
Ttom  Shon  CatWi  Cave;  to  the  Nanihir  Ravine;  and  to  numerous  other 
points  in  the  picturesque  environs. 

The  next  bit  of  the  route,  as  the  train  ascends  to  the  water- 
shed (830  ft.)  between  the  Wye  and  Towy,  is  somewhat  bleak  and 
uninteresting,  but  beyond  the  Sugar  Loaf  Tunnel  (1 000  yds.  long) 
we  obtain  a  fine  view  towards  the  S.  —  55  M.  Cynghordy. 

591/2  M.  Llandovery  [Castle,  in  the  town  ;  North  Western,  at 
the  station),  a  small  town  on  the  Toicy,  with  1728  inhab.  and  the 
insignificant  remains  of  an  old  castle.    The  largest  building  is  the 


208     Route  28.  CARMARTHEN.      From  Craven  Arms 

Welsh  Collegiate  Institute.    Llandovery  is  a  good  centre  for  excur- 
sions in  the  valleys  of  the  Towy  and  the  Bran. 

The  finest  part  of  the  *Vale  of  Towy  is  above  Llandovery,  and  may 
he  enjoyed  by  walking  or  driving  to  (10  M.)  Ystradffin.  though  walkers  may 
with  advantage  extend  their  explorations  a  few  miles  farther.  Near 
Ystradffin  is  Twm  Shon  Cattfs  Cave.  —  The  Carmarthen  Van  (2630  ft.), 
a  mountain  second  in  height  and  interest  among  those  of  South  Wales  to 
the  Brecknock  Beacons  alone,  may  be  ascended  from  Llandovery  in  4-5  hrs. 
A  carriage  may  be  taken  to  (9  M.)  Blaenau,  a  farm  4  M.  from  the  top. 
—  From  Llandovery  to  Devynock,  see  p.  206. 

From  (631/2  ^0  Llanwrda  a  picturesque  drive  may  be  taken  to 
(I672  M.)  Lampeter  (p.  209),  passing  (8  M.)  Pumpsaint  and 
Dolaucothie ,  with  remarkable  caves ,  said  to  be  the  remains  of 
Roman  gold-mines.  —  65  M.  Llangadock  (Red  Lion)  is  another 
starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  the  Carmarthen  Van. 

TOM.  Llandilo  (Cawdor  Arms;  Castle;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
a  picturesquely-situated  little  town  with  1700  inhab.,  is  a  good 
centre  for  excursions.  It  is  one  of  the  three  places  where,  accord- 
ing to  tradition,  the  miraculously  multiplied  body  of  St.  Teilo  was 
buried.  Our  line  here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  line  to 
Llanelly  and  Swansea  (see  below).  The  town  has  given  its  name 
to  a  slate  formation  well  known  as  the  'Llandilo  Flags'. 

About  IV2  51.  to  the  W.  of  the  town  is  Dynevor  Castle,  an  interesting 
Norman  ruin  in  a  beautiful  park  (keys  kept  by  the  head-gardener.)  The 
modern  mansion  is  the  residence  of  Lord  Dynevor.  The  park  begins 
1/4  M.  from  the  town.  Spenser  places  the  cave  of  Merlin  'amongst  the 
woody  hills  of  Dinevowr',  'a  little  space  from  the  swift  Barry'  CFaery 
Queene\  Hi.  3). — Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Orongar  Hill  (see  below), 
Golden  Grove  (see  below),  Talley  Abbey  (a  picturesquely  situated  ruin,  7'/2M- 
to  the  N.),  and  Gastell  Carreg  Cennen  (a  finely-placed  ruined  castle  of  the 
end  of  the  14th  cent.,  4  M,  to  the  E.). 

Fkom  Llandilo  to  Llanellt  and  Swansea,  25  M.,  railway  in  1-11/2  hr. 
Most  of  the  stations  are  unimportant.  —  13  M.  Pontardulais  is  the  junction 
for  the  line  (G.W.R.)  to  (7  M.)  Llanelly  (p.  202).  The  Swansea  line  (L.N.W.) 
keeps  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Llwchwr  estuary  and  crosses  the  S.  Wales 
main  line  at  (17  M.)  Gowerton,  whence  a  branch  runs  to  Penclawdd  and 
Llanmorlais  (p.  200).  20  M.  Killay  (p.  200).  From  (22  M.)  Mumbles  Road 
the  line  runs  along  Swansea  Bay  to  (26 M.)  Swansea  (Victoria  Station;  p.  198). 

Beyond  Llandilo  the  train  continues  to  descend  the  Vale  of 
Towy.  Dynevor  Castle  is  seen  to  the  right.  To  the  left,  near 
(73  M.)  Oolden  Grove,  is  the  mansion  of  that  name,  the  seat  of 
the  Earl  of  Cawdor,  where  Jeremy  Taylor  wrote  several  of  his  works. 
The  present  house  is,  however,  quite  modern.  To  the  N.  rises 
GrongarHill,  the  subject  of  the  well-known  poem  by  Di/er(d.  1758). 

Farther  on  we  pass  the  ruins  of  Drysllwyn  Castle ,  to  the  right. 
83  M.  Abergwili,  with  the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David's. 

84  M.  Carmarthen  (*Ivy  Bush;  Boars  Head;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  the  county-town  of  Carmarthenshire,  is  an  ancient  place 
with  10,300  inhab.,  on  the  Towy.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  Roman 
Maridunum.  The  battlemented  wall  near  the  station  forms  part  of 
the  County  Gaol,  which  incorporates  the  remains  of  the  old  castle. 
On  the  river,  near  the  station,  is  the  Parade  Walk  (reached  from 


to  Carmarthen.  LAMPETER.  28.  Route.     209 

Spilman  St.  by  Parade  Road),  an  esplanade  commanding  a  good 
view  of  'winding  Towy,  Merlin's  fabled  haimt'.  Coracles  (see 
p.  175)  may  still  frequently  be  seen  on  the  river.  —  At  the  end  of 
Spilman  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Peter,  a  large  and  handsome  Dec. 
building,  recently  restored. 

The  interior  contains  some  interestiny:  monuments,  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  the  altar-tomb  of  Sir  Rhys-ap-Thomas  (d.  1527)  and  his  wife, 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  chancel;  the  memorial  of  Lady  Ann e  Vawjhan,  with 
a  curious  inscription;  the  monument  (near  the  S.  door)  of  Bishop  Farrar, 
who  was  burned  in  the  market-place  under  Queen  Mary  (1555) ;  and  the 
modern  tablet  to  Sir  Richard  Steele,  who  is  buried  in  the  chapel  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  (see  also  below). 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  are  the  County  Lunatic  Asylum, 
the  South  Wales  Training  College,  and  an  obelisk  to  General  Picton 
(d.  1815). 

From  the  Parade  a  pretty  walk  known  as  Pond  Side  leads  to  the 
(2  M.)  Gwili  river.  We  may  return  by  the  Conwil  road,  or  go  on  to  Bron- 
wydd  Arms  Station  (see  below).  —  Another  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken 
to  (2  M.)  Llangunnor,  on  a  lofty  site  overlooking  the  Vale  of  Towy.  We 
cross  the  bridge,  follow  the  Llandilo  road,  keep  to  the  left  at  (I/2  M.)  the 
fork,  and  then  ascend  the  (1/3  M.)  lane  to  the  right.  The  'White  House' 
of  Llangunnor  was  the  scene  of  Sir  Richard  Steele's  death  in  1729.  — 
Excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Carmarthen  to  Grongar  Hill  (p.  208), 
Dynevor  Castle  (p.  208),  and  other  places  in  the  Towy  valley. 

From  Carmarthen  Junction  (p.  203)  to  Swansea,  Whitland  (for  Tenby), 
etc.,  see  R.  26. 

From  Carmarthen  to  Abertstwith,  66  M.,  railway  in  4  hrs.  (fares 
II5.  5d.,  8s.  3d.,  4«.  Sd.)-  This  line  traverses  an  uninteresting  district, 
but  it  forms  the  most  direct  route  from  Swansea,  Tenby,  etc.,  to  Aberyst- 
with.  As  far  as  (15  M.)  Pencader  it  belongs  to  the  G.  W.  Railway,  but 
beyond  that  to  the  Manchester  and  Milford  Railway,  which  derives  its 
name  from  its  original  conception  as  a  link  in  a  direct  through-line  from 
Manchester  to  Milford.  The  carriages  are  poor,  and  the  pace  slow.  —  The 
line  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  railway  to  Llandovery  and  ascends  the 
pretty  valley  of  ihe,  Qwili.  8'/'2  M.  Bronwydd  Arms.  From  (15  M.)  Pencader 
theG.W.R.  line  runs  to  (3V2M.)  Llandyssil  (Porth  Hotel;  Rail.  Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  whence  a  coach  plies  to  Newcastle  Emlyn  and  Cardigan  (see 
p.  203)  and  a  car  to  New  Quay  (p.  203).  —  At  (I6V2  M.)  New  Quay  Road 
we   enter   the   valley  of  the  Teifi. 

27  M.  Lampeter  ("Black  Lion,  unpretending,  R,  &  A.  Is.  9tf.),  a  clean 
little  agricultural  town  with  1569  inhab.,  owes  much  of  its  prosperity  to 
St.  David's  College,  the  oldest  of  the  Welsh  colleges  and  the  only  one  with 
the  right  of  granting  degrees  (B.A.  and  B.D.).  It  is  now  attended  by  160 
students,  and  there  is  a  school  in  connection  with  it  for  100  boys.  The 
library  of  40.0(X)  vols,  is  rich  in  theological,  historical,  and  classical  works, 
and  contains  some  MSS.  A  large  horse-fait  is  held  at  Lampeter  annually 
on  May  8th.  —  There  is  a  British  Camp  I1/2  M.  from  Lampeter,  and  a 
Roman  camp  a  little  farther  on.  —  A  good  road  leads  to  the  W.  from 
Lampeter  to  (13  M.)  Aherayron  (p.  203),  and  one  to  the  E.  to  (8V2  M.) 
Pumpsaint  and  (21  M.)  Llandovery  (p.  207). 

To  the  left,  at  (29  M.)  Derry  Ormond,  is  a  loftv  view-tower  on  a  hill. 
About  12  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  (34  M.)  Pont  Llanio  is  LUmddewi-Brefi,  with 
an  interesting  church,  where  St.  David  is  said  to  have  held  a  synod  in  the 
6th  cent,  to  take  measures  fi.r  checking  the  Pelagian  heresy. 

42  M.  Strata  Florida,  the  station  for  Strata  Florida  Abbey  (12th 
cent.),  which  lies  3  M.  to  the  E.  The  Abbey,  the  name  of  which  is  a 
Latinised  form  of  Ystrad  F/ldr,  or  plain  of  the  Ffliir,  is  an  almost  effaced 
ruin,  with  only  one  late-Norman  arch  remaining.  Recent  excavations  have 
laid  bare  the  ground-plan  and  brought  to  light  some  fine  pavements,  tombs, 
and  other  interesting  architectural  details.    About  3  M.  beyond  the  Abbey, 

Baedekers  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  14 


210   Route  29.  TENBY.  From  ^Yhitland 

in  a  hollow  amid  bleak  and  desolate  moorland,  are  the  Teifi  Pools,  where 
the  Teifi  takes  its  rise. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Teifi  and  the  Ystwiih, 
and  descends  into  the  prettily-wooded  valley  of  the  latter.  50  M.  Llanxlar^ 
with  an  interesting  church.  As  we  approach  Aberystwith  we  have  a  view 
of  the  sea  and  town  to  the  left. 

56  M.  Aberystwith,  see  p.  270. 

29.  From  Whitland  to  Tenby  and  Pembroke. 

27  M.  Tenby  and  Pembkoke  Railway  to  (16  M.)  Tenby  in  3/4  hr.  (fares 
35.  id.,  2s.  4d.,  is.  Sd.  or  Is.  id.);  to  (27  M.)  Pembroke  Bock  in  li/i-l^A  hr. 
(fares  5s.,  3s.  9d.,  2s.  9d.  or  2s.  31/2^.).  —  Through-carriages  from  London  to 
Tenby  and  Pemliroke  are  attached  to  the  morning-express  from  Paddington. 

Whitland  Junction,  see  p.  203.  The  train  now  enters  Pem- 
brokeshire, a  county  wliich  has  acquired  the  name  of  a  'Little 
England  beyond  Wales'  owing  to  the  fact  that  it  is  mainly  peopled 
by  the  descendants  of  a  colony  of  Flemings  settled  here  by  Henry  1. 
(in  1107;  comp.  p.  200).  To  this  day  they  have  preserved  their 
distinctive  character,  and  little  or  no  Welsh  is  spoken  in  the  county 
to  the  S.  of  Haverfordwest.  Visitors  should  also  note  the  peculi- 
arly massive  church-towers  that  are  characteristic  of  Pembroke- 
shire, and  they  will  find  much  to  interest  them  in  its  numerous 
fine  castles.  So  many  'Ogham'  inscriptions  have  been  found  in 
Pembrokeshire  (on  Caldy,  p.  210;  at  Treffgarne,  etc.),  that  it  has 
been  supposed  that  this  character  originated  here.  —  5  M.  Narberth 
(Rutzen  Arms),  a  small  market-town  with  a  ruined  castle. 

About  4  M.  to  the  K.W.  of  Narberth  is  Llawhaden  Castle,  long  a  resi- 
dence of  the  Bishops  of  St.  David's.  It  owes  its  ruinous  condition  to  Bishop 
Barlow,  who  stripped  the  lead  from  its  roof  (1536-49).  The  chief  feature 
of  the  ruins  is  the  gateway.  —  Llawhaden  Church  is  also  interesting. 

12  M.  Saundersfoot  (Cambrian  Hotel;  Hean  Castle),  a  little 
seaport  l^/^  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  (omn.  6d.),  is  frequented  as 
a  bathing-resort  and  has  a  good  sandy  beach.  The  environs  are 
picturesque  and  full  of  pleasant  objects  for  excursions.  On  the  way 
from  the  station  to  the  village  is  the  interesting  old  Church  of  St.  Issel. 

16  M.  Tenby.  —  Hotels.  Royal  Gate  House,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  4s.; 
Royal  Lion;  Coboukg,  a  comfortable  family  house;  these  three  near  each 
other,  with  views  of  the  sea.  —  Tudor  Temperance,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town.  —  Boarding  Houses  and  Ltdgings.  —  Hotel  omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 

Steamers  ply  once  weekly  all  the  year  round  between  Bristol  and 
Tenby  and  between  Tenby  and  Milford.  —  Rowing  Boat  with  one  man, 
Is.  6rf.  per  hr.;  9d.  each  addit.  V2  br. ;  Sailing  Boat,  with  two  men, 
2s.  and  Is. 

Cab  with  one  horse,  first  hour  2s.  Gd. ;  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  6d. ;  with 
two  horses  3s.  and  l^jid. ;  per  mile  Is.  or  Is.  6d.;  each  addit.  1/2  M.  %d.  or  9d. 

Tenby ,  a  small  town  with  4550  inhab.,  is  finely  placed  upon 
a  bold  rocky  promontory,  jutting  out  between  two  beautiful  sandy 
bays  and  towering  to  a  considerable  height  above  them.  The  sands 
are  smooth,  firm,  and  extensive,  the  climate  is  mild  and  equable, 
and  the  coast-scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  of  a  high  order.  The 
neighbourhood  is  'the  prince  of  places   for  a  naturalist' ,   and  even 


toPemlroke.  TENBY.  29.  Route.     211 

those  who  have  no  claim  to  this  title  will  find  much  to  interest 
them  in  Mr.  Gosse's  'Tenby:  a  Seaside  Holiday'.  George  Eliot  and 
Mr.  Lewes  lived  and  worked  here  for  some  time  in  1856. 

The  long  and  lofty  wall,  with  its  towers  and  gateways,  known 
as  the  'Arches'  and  passed  on  the  way  from  the  railway-station,  is 
a  remnant  of  the  town-fortifications  as  strengthened  to  resist  the 
threatened  attack  of  the  Armada  in  1588. 

The  Parish  Church  of  St.  Mary,  in  the  principal  street,  is  an 
E.E.  edifice  (1256),  with  Perp.  and  modern  alterations.  Its  chief 
external  feature  is  the  lofty  spire  (150  ft.). 

The  interior  contains  some  interesting  monuments,  of  which  may  be 
mentioned  the  old  tombs,  with  effigies,  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  the  N.  door 
(14th  and  15th  cent,)-,  that  of  the  wife  of  Thomas  ap  Rhys^  in  the  N.  aisle 
of  the  chancel  •,  and  that  of  Thomas  White  (d.  1482),  mayor  of  Tenby,  who 
helped  the  Earl  of  Richmond  (Henry  VII.)  to  escape  after  the  battle  of 
Tewkesbury.  A  good  effect  is  produced  by  the  singular  elevation  of  the 
chancel  above  the  rest  of  the  church. 

At  the  end  of  the  headland  on  which  the  town  lies  are  the  in- 
significant ruins  of  Tenhy  Castle  and  a  Statue  of  Prince  Albert.  A 
band  plays  here  in  summer,  and  the  promenade  affords  a  good  view. 
Here,  too,  is  the  Tenby  Museum  (adm.  6d.),  with  a  collection  illus- 
trating the  natural  history  (fine  shells)  and  geology  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  containing  some  mementoes  of  the  French  landing 
at  Fishguard  (p.  203).  —  The  real  geological  ending  of  the  pro- 
montory is  the  detached  St.  Catharine's  Rock,  on  which  is  mounted 
a  small  battery.  The  coast  on  both  sides  is  still  defended  by  mar- 
tello  towers.  —  Tenby  is  the  best  headquarters  for  exploring  the 
S.  W.  corner  of  Wales,  and  a  few  of  the  favourite  excursions  are 
given  below.  Good  walkers  should  visit  a  part  at  least  of  the  fine 
coast  between  Tenby  and  St.  Govan's  Head. 

The  charming  little  cove  to  the  N.  of  the  point  is  known  as  Tenby 
Roads,  while  the  larger  sweep  to  the  S.  is  called  the  Nouth  Sands.  Giltar 
Point  bounds  the  latter  on  the  S.,  and  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the 
bold  rocky  coast  to  the  W.  and  of  the  island  of  Ccildy  (lighthouse).  The 
direct  route  to  it  across  the  sands  is  I1/4  M.  long;  but  for  the  sake  of  a 
gentler  ascent  we  may  approach  from  the  landward  by  following  the 
railway  as  far  as  the  Black  Rock  (at  the  bridge)  and  then  bearing  to  the 
left  across  Penally  Buvfows,  leaving  the  village  of  Penally  to  the  right. 

From  Tenby  to  Penallt,  By  the  path  along  the  railway  the  distance 
is  about  I'/i  M.,  by  the  road  2  M.  The  latter,  the  'Marsh  Road",  runs 
to  the  W.  at  lirst  for  about  IV4  M.,  and  then  ascends  to  the  S.  O^ft)  past 
a  white  farm-house.  At  the  next  fork  we  also  keep  to  the  left.  Penally 
(Crown  Inn).,  a  pretty  little  village,  with  a  restored  church  containing 
an  altar-tomb  of  the  13th  cent,  and  a  Norman  font,  is  one  of  the  three 
alleged  burial-places  of  St.  Teilo  (see  p.  208).  —  On  the  way  to  Penally 
we  may  digress  to  visit  the  cave  called  Hoyle's  Mouth  (a  light  desirable). 
We  diverge  from  the  road  to  the  right  V*  M.  beyond  the  Marsh  Bridge, 
pass  through  the  (1/3  M.)  second  gate  on  the  left,  and  ascend  by  the  in- 
distinct path  straight  up  {not  the  well-marked  track  to  the  left)  to  the 
(1  min.)  cave,  the  mouth  of  which  is  hidden  among  the  trees. 

From  Tenby  to  Saundersfoot,  3-4  M.  Good  walkers  should  go  by 
road  and  return  by  the  cliffs;  the  walk  may  be  shortened  by  taking  the 
railway  (p.  210).  —  By  Road.  Just  outside  the  town,  walkers  may  save  >/*  M. 
by  following  the  old  road  to  the  right,  which  rejoins  the  new  road  about 
1  M.    from   Tenby.     After   1   M.    more   we   keep   to   the   right.  —   By   the 

14* 


212   Route  29.         MANORBIER  CASTLE.       Frojn  Whitland 

Cliffs.  We  follow  the  path  from  the  gas-works  to  (1  M.)  Waterwinch,  and 
then  skirt  the  top  of  the  cliff's.  The  best  view  is  obtained  from  the  high 
ground  at  the  base  of  the  Monkstone  Promontory^  1^/4  M.  bevond  Waterwinch. 

To  Cahew  Castle,  6V2-8V2  M.  The  shortest  road  (61/2  M.)  leads  via 
(I3/4  M.)  Gumfreston^  with  an  interesting  church,  but  the  pleasantest 
(81/2  M.)  follows  the  Ridgeway^  a  range  ot  low  hills  running  parallel  with 
the  railway  from  Penally  to  Pembroke.  'Carew  Castle  (pron.  Carey; 
adm.  3d.)  is  a  picturesque  and  fairly -preserved  ruin,  on  a  creek  of  Mil- 
ford  Haven.  It  is  of  different  dates  ,  the  oldest  part  being  apparently 
that  adjoining  the  gate-house  (early  12th  cent.).  In  the  village  ( Carew 
Inn;  Castle  Inn),  near  the  castle -entrance,  is  an  ancient  Cross,  14  ft. 
high,  supposed  to  be  Saxon  or  Danish.  The  Church,  1/2  M.  to  the  S.,  is 
a  Dec.  structure,  with  a  Perp.  tower.  The  nearest  railway-station  is  (4  M.) 
Lamphey  (p.  213).  —  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  creek  on  which  Carew 
stands  is   Upton  Castle,  a  smaller   and  less  interesting  ruin. 

Cliff  Walk  fkom  Tenbt  to  Ltdstep  Caveexs  and  Manoebier,  8  M. 
—  Those  who  have  already  visited  Giltar  Point  (p.  211)  may  save  a  little 
by  following  the  road  to  Lyds.tep ,  though  the  walk  over  the  cliffs, 
passing  another  bold  headland  named  Proud  Giltar,  is  fine.  By  road  we 
pass  through  (2  M.)  Penally  (see  p.  211)  and  continue  to  follow  the 
main  (lower)  road,  passing  Q/i  M.)  the  Hut  Barracks  of  a  body  of  sol- 
diers belonging  to  the  garrison  of  Pembroke.  Shortly  before  reaching 
(I3/4  M.)  the  village  of  Lydstep,  some  of  the  old  cottages  in  which  have 
evidently  seen  better  days,  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  coast  to  the 
left,  with  the  lofty  rocks  at  the  W.  end  of  Lydstep  Bay,  and  Lydstep 
House  nestling  among  the  trees  in  the  corner.  At  the  far  end  of  the 
village  we  turn  to  the  left  and  descend  to  (3  min.)  the  lodge  of  Lydstep 
House.  Passing  through  the  gate,  we  turn  to  the  right  over  the  grassy 
hill,  and  almost  immediately  come  in  sight  oi  Lydstep  Cove,  with  a  cottage 
where  light  refreshments  may  be  obtained  in  summer.  The  "Caverns  are 
to  the  right  and  left  of  this  cove;  with  the  exception  of  the  'Smugglers' 
Cave',  which  has  a  landward  entrance,  they  are  inaccessible  except  at  low 
water  (see  tide-tables  in  the  'Tenby  Observer').  —  V/e  now  make  our  way 
to  the  top  of  the  cliffs,  and  follow  them  to  (3  M.)  Manorbier.  There  is  a 
more  or  less  distinct  path  nearly  all  the  way,  and  stiles  over  the  walls 
and  fences.  The  cliff'  formations  are  very  fine,  and  the  transition  from 
the  limestone  to  old  red  sandstone  is  well  marked.  On  (1^/4  M.)  Old 
Castle  Head  is  a  clearly- defined  cliff"- castle.  Beyond  this  we  continue 
to  follow  the  shore-line,  passing  some  curious  Fissures  in  the  cliffs,  formed 
by  the  falling  in  of  caves,  and  finally  descend  past  a  Cromlech  to  (IV4  M.) 
Manorbier  Bay.  On  the  left  side  of  the  cove,  at  a  little  distance  from 
the  sea,  stands  *Manorbier  Castle  (adm.  3d. ;  when  two  flags  are  flying, 
6d.),  a  large  and  good  example  of  a  feudal  stronghold,  dating  chiefly 
from  the  12-14th  centuries.  The  ruined  tower  adjoining  the  gate-house 
and  the  square  building  with  the  large  hall  are  supposed  to  be  early 
Norman.  Part  of  it  has  been  fitted  up  as  a  modern  residence.  Giraldus 
Cambrensis,  the  chronicler,  born  in  the  cattle  in  1146,  was  a  member 
of  the  De  Barri  family  to  which  it  then  belonged.  Manorbier  Church,  on 
the  opposite  slope  of  the  bay,  is  a  curiously  irregular  building,  with  a 
Norman  nave.  It  contains  a  monument  of  the  De  Barri  family  (see  above). 
The  village  of  Manorbier  (Lion  Hotel)  lies  above  the  castle,  a  little 
more  inland.  —  From  Manorbier  good  walkers  may  continue  their  route 
along  the  coast  to  (8  M.)  Stackpole  and  (3  M.)  St.  Go'wan's  Head  (see  p.  214). 
The  railway-station  of  Manorbier  (p.  213)  lies  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  village. 

Excursion -brakes  plv  in  summer  from  Tenby  to  (14  M.)  Stackpole 
Court,  {Vaji  M)  St.  Gowaris  Chapel,  and  (201/2  M.)  the  Stack  Rocks  (fare 
65.  6d.),  but  these  places  may  be  more  easily  visited  from  Pembroke.  — 
Lamphey  Palace  (p.  213)  may  be  reached  by  railway  or  by  driving  along 
the  Ridgeway  (8  M.).  —  A  boating  excursion  may  be  made  to  Caldy 
Island  (p.  211).  —  Other  places  of  interest  within  easv  reach  are  Narberth 
Castle  (p.  210),  Llawhaden  Castle  (p.  210),  Pembroke  (p.  214),  and  Milford 
Haven  (p.  204),  while  St.  David's  (p.  215)  may  be  \'isited  by  spending  one 
night  there  and  taking  the  mail-cart  (see  p.  214). 


to  Pembroke.  PExMBROKE.  29.  Route.     213 

As  the  train  leaves  Tenby  we  have  a  view  to  the  left  of  Giltar 
and  Caldy  Island.  Beyond  (17  M.)  Penally  (p.  211)  the  line  runs 
through  an  unattractive  district,  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Ridge- 
way.  20  M.  Manorbier ;  the  village  (see  p.  212)  lies  1  M.  to  the  S. 
—  At  (24  M.)  Lamphey  are  the  ruins  of  Laraphey  Palace  (see  below), 
a  former  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  St.  David's  (p.  210). 

On  leaving  the  station  we  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  lOU  yds.  reach 
an  iron  swing-gate  admitting  to  the  grounds  of  Lamphey  Court,  in  which 
the  ruins  lie.  We  follow  the  path,  which  soon  joins  the  drive,  and  pass 
through  (5  min.)  an  old  archway,  beyond  which  we  have  a  lofty  garden- 
wall  to  our  right.  At  the  end  of  this  is  a  gate  to  the  right  (not  the  door 
in  the  wall),  through  which  we  pass  and  proceed  to  another  gate,  admit- 
ting to  the  ivy-clad  ruin.  The  principal  remains  are  the  Chapel.,  with  a  good 
Perp.  window,  and  the  Hall.,  with  an  arcade  like  those  at  Swansea  Castle 
and  St.  David's  Palace,  all  three  being  ascribed  to  Bishop  Gower  (1335).  — 
About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Lamphey  station  is  Hodgeston  Church,  the 
Dec.  chancel   of  which  is   also  said  to  have  been  built  by  Bishop  Gower. 

251/4  M.  Pembroke  {^Lion;  King's  Arms^  both  near  the  castle), 
a  meanly-built  town  with  14,978  inhab.,  consists  mainly  of  one 
street,  upwards  of  V2  M.  long,  with  the  railway-station  at  one  end 
and  the  castle  at  the  other. 

The  *Ca8tle  (adm.  6d. ;  key  kept  by  the  saddler  nearly  opposite 
the  Lion)  is  externally  one  of  the  finest  ruins  in  Wales,  but  in- 
side is  inferior  to  Beaumaris  and  Carnarvon.  It  was  originally  built 
by  Arnulf  de  Montgomery  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent.,  but  the 
buildings  of  the  outer  ward  were  not  added  till  the  14th  century. 
Henry  VII.  was  born  at  Pembroke  Castle  in  1456.  In  the  Civil  War 
it  was  taken  by  Cromwell  after  a  siege  of  six  weeks.  The  Gateway^ 
with  its  slender  flanking  turrets,  is  very  imposing  as  seen  from  the 
inside;  and  the  Great  Hall  has  a  fine  roof.  At  the  other  end  is  the 
massive  and  lofty  Norman  Keep,  with  a  domed  roof.  Climbers  may 
ascend  the  staircase  with  the  aid  of  a  rope,  and  will  be  repaid  by 
the  *yiew  from  the  top.  From  the  hall  a  flight  of  steps  descends  to 
a  huge  cavern  in  the  living  rock,  one  of  the  most  striking  features 
of  the  castle.  A  good  view  of  the  ivy-draped  ruins  is  obtained  from 
the  bridge,  on  the  road  to  Pembroke  Dock.  A  walk  has  also  been 
formed  round  the  exterior  of  the  castle,  skirting  the  inlet  of  Mil- 
ford  Haven  on  which  it  stands  and  passing  the  mouth  of  the  above- 
mentioned  cavern. 

Monkton  Priory,  an  ancient  Norman  structure  on  the  hill  oppo- 
site the  Castle,  somewhat  resembles  Dorchester  Abbey  (p.  220). 
The  Dec.  choir,  now  roofless,  formed  the  monks'  cliurch.  To  reach 
the  priory  from  the  castle  wc  cross  Monkton  Bridge  (to  the  S.)  and 
ascend  to  the  right. 

Pembroke  is  the  nearest  railway -station  to  Stackpole  Court,  St.  Ootc- 
an's  Head,  and  the  Stack  Bocks  (comp.  p.  214).  The  total  round,  return- 
ing by  the  direct  road  from  the  last,  is  about  17  M.  Parties  should  take 
luncheon  with  them,  as  no  inns  are  passed.  —  From  the  station  the 
road  leads  to  the  S.,  passing  St.  Daniel's  C/i!/rc/i,  on  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
to  (3  M.)  the  entrance  to  the  park  of  Stackpole  Court,  the  seat  of  Earl 
Cawdor,  containing  a  few  good  pictures  and  a  'hirlas  horn"  (p.  292).    The 


214     Route  29.  PEMBROKE  DOCK. 

house  is  not  shown ,  but  the  well-timhered  park  and  fine  gardens  are 
open  to  visitors.  [A  slight  detour  may  be  made,  before  the  park  is  entered, 
to  Cheriton  Churchy  which  lies  a  little  to  the  N.J  Beyond  the  house  our  road 
turns  to  the  right,  and  then,  1  M.  farther  on,  to  the  left.  1  M.  Boshenion 
Church,  with  an  old  cross  in  the  churchyard.  —  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Bosherston,  and  71/2  M.  from  Pembroke,  is  'St.  Gowan's  or  St.  Govan's 
Head,  a  bold  limestone  promontory  rising  160  ft.  above  the  sea.  In  a 
narrow  chasm  by  which  the  headland  is  intersected  is  perched  St.  Gowan's 
Chapel,  which  tradition  connects  with  the  Arthurian  knight  Gawain.  The 
present  chapel  can  scarcely  be  earlier  than  the  13th  century.  About  '/s  M. 
to  the  W.  of  St.  Gowan's  is  the  Hi/ntst7ian's  Leap,  a  deep  and  narrow  fissure 
in  the  cliff,  which  gets  its  name  from  having  been  cleared  by  a  fox-hunter, 
who,  as  the  story  goes,  died  of  retrospective  alarm  !  A  little  farther  on 
is  Bosherston  Mere.  —  The  *Stack  Rocks,  two  columnar  masses  of  lime- 
stone, standing  about  a  stone's  throw  from  the  mainland,  are  2'/2  M. 
farther  to  the  W.  Just  on  this  side  of  them  is  the  'Cauldron,  a  huge  and 
magnificent  chasm,  which  the  sea  enters  by  a  natural  arch.  In  summer 
the  Stacks  are  covered  with  myriads  of  eligugs  (a  species  of  auk),  puffins, 
and  other  sea-birds.  The  whole  of  this  part  of  the  coast  is  fine,  and  good 
pedestrians  may  follow  the  line  of  the  cliffs  to  (8  M.)  Angle,  on  Milford 
Haven.  All  are  recommended  to  go  as  far  the  Wash,  an  inlet  V2  M.  to 
the  W.  of  the  Stacks.  —  The  direct  road  from  the  Stack  Rocks  to  (6V2  M.) 
Pembroke  leads  by   Warren  and  Monkton  (see  p.  213). 

The  road  from  Pembroke  to  (2  M.)  Pembroke  Dock  (see  below)  crosses 
the  bridge  on  the  N.  side  of  the  castle  and  runs  in  a  N.W.  direction. 

From  Pembroke  excursions  mav  also  be  made  to  Carew  (p.  212), 
Lamphey  (p.  213),  Milford  Haven  (p.  204),  etc. 

On  leaving  Pembroke  we  have  a  good  view  of  tlie  castle  to  the 
left  just  before  the  train  plunges  into  a  tunnel.  27  M.  Pembroke 
Dock  or  Pater  {Bush,  not  far  from  the  station),  a  Philistine-looking 
town  with  8-10,000  inhab. ,  depends  solely  on  its  dockyard  for 
interest  as  well  as  existence.  From  the  station  we  reach  the  (^2^.) 
entrance  by  following  the  street  leading  to  the  main  street  and  then 
turning  to  the  left.  Visitors  are  conducted  over  the  *Dockyard^ 
which  covers  90  acres  and  employs  1800  men ,  by  a  policeman 
(fee  discretionary),  but  are  allowed  more  time  than  at  Portsmouth 
or  Plymouth;  it  is  closed  from  12  to  1.15  p.m. 

Those  who  wish  to  cross  to  Milford  Haven  turn  to  the  left  on  leaving 
the  dockvard  and  walk  along  the  wall,  passing  the  Hut  Encampment,  to 
Hobbes  Point  (ferry  2d.). 

A  fine  view  of  the  beautiful  *Milford  Haven,  the  'blessed  Milford'  of 
Imogen  ('Cymbeline',  iii.  2) ,  is  obtained  from  the  Barrack  Hill,  at  the 
top  of  which  is  a  fort,     Comp.  p.  204. 

30.  From  Haverfordwest  to  St.  David's. 

16  M.  Coach  between  Haverfordwest  and  St.  David's  twice  a  week 
(Tues.  and  Sat.),  leaving  the  former  about  2.30  p.m.  and  the  latter  about 
7  a.m.  (fare  2s.  Hd.,  outside  2s.).  A  Mail-Cart  also  runs  daily  in  con- 
nection with  the  London  mails  (fare  5s.;  return  7s.  6c?.). 

The  road  from  Haverfordwest  (p.  203)  to  St.  David's  traverses 
a  hilly,  bleak,  and  somewhat  uninteresting  district.  4  M.  Keeston 
Hill  (Inn).  —  21/2  M.  Eoch  Castle ,  a  conspicuous  ruined  tower, 
1/2  M.  to  the  right  of  the  road ;  it  was  built  in  the  13th  cent,  by 
Adam  de  Rupe.  The  deep  valley  which  it  overlooks  forms  the  W. 
boundary  of  'Little  England'  (p.  210);  beyond  this  we  are  again  in 


ST.  DAVID'S.  30.  Route.    215 

a  purely  Celtic  district.  We  now  enjoy  a  good  view  of  St.  Bride's 
Bny^  while  the  retrospect  is  also  fine.  —  From  {1^/2  M.)  Newgale 
Bridge  (Inn)  the  road  skirts  the  coast  nearly  all  the  way  to  St.  David's. 
About  11/2  M.  farther,  to  the  left,  is  a  tumulus  marking  the  site 
of  Porjntz  Castle^  a  moated  grange  of  St.  David's.  —  2  M.  Solva 
(Cambrian  Hotel),  a  pretty  little  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Solva 
river. 

16  M.  St.  David's  {Grove,  at  the  E.  entrance  to  the  city ;  *City, 
to  the  N.),  the  ancient  ilfenap/a  ov  Menevia,  is  situated  on  the  brook 
Alan,  IV2M.  from  the  sea,  at  the  extreme  W.  point  of  the  S.  Welsh 
peninsula,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  strikingly  desolate  and  out-of-the- 
world  district.  It  has  been  the  seat  of  an  episcopal  see  from  the 
6th  cent.,  and  is  thus  nominally  a  city,  though  in  fact  it  is  merely 
an  irregularly-built  village  with  1000  inhabitants. 

A  lane  known  as  the  'Popples'  leads  from  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage to  the  main  gateway  of  the  Cathedral  Close ,  flanked  by  an 
octagonal  tower  and  a  round  bastion,  beyond  which  we  suddenly 
obtain  a  *View  of  tlie  Cathedral  and  its  associated  buildings,  situ- 
ated, like  two  other  Welsh  cathedrals  (pp.  196,  291),  in  a  hollowt. 

The  *Cathedral  of  St.  David,  the  most  important  and  inter- 
esting church  in  Wales,  is  in  its  present  form  substantially  a  Trans- 
itional Norman  building  (comp.  Introd.),  though  subsequent  addi- 
tions and  alterations  have  stamped  a  late  Dec.  character  on  its  ex- 
terior. The  foundation  of  the  see  is  ascribed  to  St.  David,  the 
patron  saint  of  Wales,  who  is  sometimes  said  to  have  been  born  among 
the  cliffs  of  St.  Bride's  Bay  (see  above),  towards  the  close  of  the  5th 
century.  The  church  he  erected  has,  however,  completely  disap- 
peared. In  ilSO  Bishop  Peter  deLeia  began  to  rebuild  the  cathedral 
after  it  had  'beene  often  destroyed  in  former  times  by  Danes  and 
other  pyrats,  and  in  his  time  was  almost  quite  ruinated'.  The  tran- 
septs and  choir  of  Loia's  church  were  destroyed  by  the  fall  of  the 
tower  in  1220  and  rebuilt  between  that  date  and  1250.  The  E.  E. 
Lady  Chapel,  completing  the  present  ground-plan,  was  added  in 
1290-1328.  Various  alterations  were  made  in  the  Dec.  period  by 
Bishop  Goicer  (1328-47;  comp.  pp.  217,  213),  the  'Menevian 
Wykeham'  (comp.  p.  76),  who  raised  the  walls  of  the  aisles,  in- 
serted Dec.  windows,  and  added  a  stage  to  the  tower,  the  upper- 
most story  of  which  is  Perp,  (ca.  1520).  The  W.  front  was  rebuilt 
with  little  judgment  at  the  end  of  last  cent.,  but  has,  with  the  rest 
of  the  edifice,  been  skilfully  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  (1862-78) 
and  his  son.  The  Lady  Chapel,  however,  is  still  roofless.  —  Arch- 
bishop Laud  was  Bishop  of  St.  David's  from  1621  to  1626,  and  Con- 
nop  Thirlwall,  the  historian  of  Greece,  from  1840  to  1874. 


+  Fenton's  'Pembrokeshire'  and  the  large  work  on  St.  David's  Cathedral, 
by  the  Rev.  W.  B.  Jones  (now  Bishop  of  St.  David's)  and  Mr.  E.  A.  Free- 
man, will  be  found  at  the  Grove  Hotel. 


2\d   Route  30.  ST.  DAVID'S.  Cathedral 

As  a  whole  the  Exterior  is  not  very  imposing,  though  considerable 
variety  of  outline  is  given  hy  the  chapels  at  the  E.  end  and  the  lofty 
erection  adjoining  the  N.  transept.  The  S.  side,  Avith  its  porch,  is 
superior  to  the  N.  side,  which  is  somewhat  disfigured  by  heavy  buttresses, 
rendered  needful  by  the  unsafe  condition  of  the  walls.  The  principal 
dimensions  are  as  follows:  total  length  290  ft.;  length  of  transepts  120  ft. ; 
breadth  across  nave  and  aisles  70  ft. ;  height  of  nave  46  ft. ;  height  of 
tower  126  ft.  English  services  are  held  on  Sun.  at  11  a.m.  and  4  p.m. 
and  on  week-days  at  8.30  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  ;  Welsh  services  on  Sun.  at 
9  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  and  on  Wed.  at  7  p.m.     We  enter  by  the  South  Porch, 

The  'Interior  is  much  more  richly  decorated  than  the  exterior,  and 
the  predominant  reddish  colour  of  the  stone  produces  a  warm  and  pleas- 
ing effect.  The  general  effect  of  the  Kave  (1176-98)  'is  extremely  strik- 
ing from  the  remarkable  richness  of  the  architecture,  and  especially 
from  its  great  multiplicity  of  parts  ;  characters  sufficiently  marked  to 
have  been  conspicuous  anywhere,  but  which  are  the  more  strongly 
forced  on  the  eye  from  their  utter  contrast  with  the  rugged  and  weather- 
beaten  aspect  of  the  church  without'  (Jones  d-  Freeman).  In  this  respect 
it  ditTers  strongly  from  any  other  !Norman  nave  in  the  country,  and  some 
of  the  massive  solemnity  characteristic  of  a  Xorman  interior  has  been 
sacrificed  to  the  desire  for  variety.  The  arrangement  of  the  triforium 
and  clerestory  is  unusual,  and  their  ornamentation  very  rich  and  varied. 
The  fret-work  'Eoof,  added  in  the  Perp.  period  (ca.  1500),  harmonizes 
wonderfully  well  with  the  Xorman  work  below.  The  original  builders 
contemplated  a  vaulted  roof,  and  the  shafts  to  support  it  are  still  in  situ. 

From  the  aisles  we  enter  the  Transepts  by  Norman  doorways  in- 
stead of  arches.  The  W.  walls  of  the  transepts  seem  to  be  part  of  the 
original  church,  while  the  rest  dates  from  after  the  accident  of  1220 
(p.  215),  with  later  alterations.  They  offer  a  good  exhibition  of  'a  pe- 
culiar form  of  incipient  Gothic,  found  in  this  church  and  several  others 
in  South  Wales  and  the  West  of  England.'  In  the  N.  transept  is  a  structure 
conjectured  to  have  been  the  pedestal  supporting  the  Shrine  of  St.  Caradoc 
(d.  1124).  —  Attached  to  the  E.  face  of  the  N.  transept  is  a  singular 
building,  originally  erected  after  1220  as  a  Chapel  of  Si.  Thomas,  and  now 
used  as  the  Chapter  House  and  Vestry.  It  contains  a  beautiful  E.  E.  pis- 
cina. It  is  in  three  stories,  the  second  and  third  having  been  originally 
the  chapter-house  and  the  treasury. 

The  La7itevn  in  the  interior  of  the  Tower  is  formed  by  four  fine 
Transitional  arches,  of  which  three  are  pointed  and  one  (to  the  W.)  cir- 
cular. The  roof  is  Decorated.  The  space  below  the  tower  forms  the 
greater  part  of  the  ritual  Choir,  which  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an 
elaborate  Rood  Screen.,  erected  by  Bishop  Gower  (1328-47),  who  is  buried 
in  one  of  its  canopied  recesses.  The  Stalls  and  Bishop's  Throne  date  from 
the  second  half  of  the  15th  century. 

To  the  E.  of  the  ritual  choir,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  wooden 
parclose  or  screen,  is  the  Peesbttert  (1220-48),  which  is  similar  in  gen- 
eral style  to  the  nave,  except  that  the  advance  towards  the  E.E.  style 
is  indicated  by  the  substitution  of  pointed  for  circular  arches.  The  E. 
end  contains  two  tiers  of  lancet  windows,  the  lower  of  which  are  filled 
with  mosaics,  by  Salviati  of  Murano.  On  the  X.  side  of  the  presbytery 
is  the  pedestal  which  supported  the  Shrine  of  St.  David  (d.  601),  an  E.E. 
structure.  Opposite  is  the  monument  of  Bishop  Anselm  (d.  1247),  and  in 
the  middle  that  of  Edmund  Tudor  (d.  1456),  father  of  Henry  VII. 

Adjoining  the  presbytery  on  the  E.  is  Bishop  Vaughans  Chapel.,  a 
good  Perp.  structure  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  In  its  W. 
wall,  at  the  back  of  the  high-altar,  is  a  curious  recess  with  a  pierced 
cross.  Beneath  this  is  an  equal-armed  cross,  in  relief,  which  may  he  a 
relic  of  the  church  that  preceded  Bp.  de  Leia's  (see  p.  215).  The  chapel  is 
bounded  on  the  E.  by  a  solid  wall,  and  is  entered  from  the  aisles  of  the 
presbytery.  It  would  seem  that  the  space  between  the  E.  end  of  the 
presbytery  and  the  vestibule  of  the  Lady  Chapel  (p.  217)  was  open  to  the 
sky,  until  appropriated  by  Bishop  Vaughan  for  this  chapel.  It  is  obvious 
that  the  aisles  of  the  presbytery  have  also  been  lengthened  towards  the  E. 


Cliffs.  ST.  DAVID'S.  30.  Route.     217 

The  Lady  Chapel  (1290-1328),  the  window -tracery  of  which  has  been 
restored,  is  approached  by  a  vestibule  with  a  fan-vaulted  roof.  On  the 
S.  side  of  it  is  the  tomb  of  its  founder,  Bishop  Mariyn  (d.  1328J. 

To  the  N.  of  the  nave  of  the  cathedral  are  the  ruins  of  Si. 
Marys  College.,  built  by  Bishop  Houghton  (1362-89),  the  most  pro- 
minent feature  being  the  tall  slender  tower  of  its  chapel.  The  space 
between  the  college  and  the  cathedral  was  occupied  by  a  cloister 
attached  to  the  former.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  cathedral,  on  the  op- 
posite bank  of  the  Alan,  are  the  picturesque  and  extensive  remains 
of  the  ^Episcopal  Palace,  built  by  Bishop  Gotrer  (p.  215)  about 
1347,  The  most  prominent  feature  is  the  beautiful  arcaded  parapet, 
of  which  we  have  already  seen  foreshadowings  at  Swansea  (p.  199) 
and  Lamphey  (p.  213).  The  Great  Hall  has  a  fine  porch  and  rose- 
window,  and  the  Chapel  also  remains.  The  chief  Domestic  Apart- 
ments are  on  the  E.  side  of  the  quadrangle.  The  whole  place  stands 
on  a  series  of  vaulted  crypts.  Freeman  considers  it  to  be  alto- 
gether unsurpassed  by  any  existing  English  edifice  of  its  own  kind. 
—  The  fortified  Wall,  enclosing  the  cathedral-precincts,  is  also 
attributed  to  Bishop  Gower,  and  may  be  traced  throughout  nearly 
its  whole  extent.   The  only  remaining  gateway  is  mentioned  atp.  215. 

The  Cliffs  near  St.  David's,  though  not  remarkable  for  their  height, 
are  picturesque  and  varied  in  outline.  Among  the  most  interesting  points 
are  St.  David's  Head  (100  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  spur  of  Cam  Llidi,  2V2  M. 
to  theN.W.,  cut  off  from  the  mainland  by  an  ancient  stone  fortification; 
the  ruined  Chapel  of  S(.  Non.,  the  mother  of  St.  David,  due  S.  of  the 
city;  and  Capel  Stinan  (12  M.  due  W.),  built  by  Bishop  Vaughan  (1509-22), 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  pilgrimage-chapel  dedicated  to  St.  .Justinian,  the 
confessor  of  St.  David.  —  Off  the  coast  lies  the  island  of  Bamsey,  a  great 
resort  of  woodcocks  in  October.  To  the  W.  lie  the  Bishop  and  his  Clerks, 
a  group  of  rocks  of  which  Fenton  ('History  of  Pembrokeshire",  p.  126), 
quoting  George  Owen  (16th  cent.),  says  that  they  'preache  deadly  doctrine 
to  their  winter  audience,  such  poor  seafaring  men  as  are  forcyd  thether 
by  tempest;  onlie  in  one  thing  they  are  to  be  commended,  they  keepe 
residence  better  than  the  rest  of  the  canons  of  that  see  are  wont  to  do'. 

31.  From  London  to  Oxford. 

a.  Great  Western  Railway  vi&  Didcot. 

63ViM.  Railway  from  Paddington  SfaHon  in  13/i-3  hrs.  (fares  10.'.  6d., 
Qs.Sd.,  5s.  S^/id.;  return  185.6d.,  125.).  This  is  the  quickest  route  to  Oxford. 

From  London  to  (53  M.)  Didcot,  see  R.  15.  The  Oxford  branch 
here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  line  of  the  G.W.R.,  tra- 
verses a  fertile  and  pleasing  district,  and  crosses  the  Thames  (or 
Isis) .  of  which  many  beautiful  views  are  obtained.  From  (56  M.) 
Culham  ,  with  a  training-college  for  schoolmasters  ,  a  visit  may  be 
paid  to  Dorchester  (see  p.  220).  "We  now  recross  the  Isis ,  pass 
Nuneham  Park  (p.  219),  and  once  more  cross  the  river.  —  58V2  M. 
Radley,  with  an  interesting  church. 

Radley  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (21/2  M.)  Abingdon  (Crovm  d-  Thistle, 
Queen''s),  a  town  of  6557  inhab.,  with  a  busy  trade  in  corn.  Few  remains 
are  left  of  the  Abbey,  once  of  considerable  importance.  St.  Helen's 
Church  is  a  large  edifice,  with  a  fine  spire;   and  ChritVt  Hospital,  an  old 


218     Route  31.  HIGH  WYCOMBE. 

almshouse,   has   interesting  features.      Cumnor  Hall  (p,  241),   5  M.    to  the 
N.,  was  originally  a  seat  of  the  Abbots  of  Abingdon. 

Beyond  Radley  the  train  again  crosses  the  Isis.  Bagley  Woods 
are  seen  to  the  left,  and  farther  on  Iffley  is  passed  on  the  right.  As 
we  approach  Oxford  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  with  its  towers 
and  spires,  to  the  right.  —  63V2  M.  Oxford,  see  p.  224. 

b.  Great  Western  Railway  vik  Maidenhead  and  High  Wycombe. 

63  M.  Railway  from  Paddington  Station  in  3  hrs.  (same  fares  as  above). 

From  London  to  (24  M.)  Maidenhead,  see  p.  106.  The  Oxford 
line  now  turns  to  the  N.  The  next  stations  are  Cookham  (with  a 
picturesque  church ;  p.  2221  and  (29  M.")  Bourne  End,  where  a  short 
branch  diverges  on  the  left  to  Great  Marlow  (p.  222).  —  30  M. 
Woohurn  Green,  with  an  interesting  church;  3IV2  ^1-  Loudtcater. 

341 '2  M.  High  Wycombe  (Red  Lion;  Falcon),  a  town  with 
5000  inhab.  and  manufactories  of  paper  and  beechwood-chairs.  The 
Parish  Church  is  a  large  and  handsome  building.  The  Guildhall 
contains  a  portrait  by  Vandyck,  In  the  vicinity  are  a  Roman  villa 
and  a  Saxon  camp  known  as  Deshorouyh  Castle. 

Aboiit  2  M.  to  the  N.  lies  Hughenden  Manor,  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Bea- 
consfield  from  1847  till  his  death  in  1881.  The  Earl  is  buried  in  the 
village-church,  where  a  monument  was  erected  to  him  by  Queen  Victoria. 

421/2  M.  Prince's  Risborough  (George),  a  small  town  amid  the 
Chiltern  Hills,  named  from  an  old  castle  of  the  Black  Prince,  of 
which  no  trace  remains.  On  one  of  the  hills  is  a  curious  old  Cross, 
cut  in  the  turf,  and  said  to  commemorate  a  victory  of  the  Christian 
Saxons  over  the  Danes. 

Branch-lines  diverge  from  Risborough  to  (9  M. ;  left)  Watlington  and 
to  (7  M. ;  right)  Aylesbury  (p.  252). 

48  M.  Thame  (Spread  Eagle),  with  an  old  church,  where  John 
Hampden  died  in  1643.  Near  (56  M.)  Wheatley  is  Cuddesden  Palace, 
the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Oxford.  —  63  M.  Oxford,  see  p.  224. 

c.  London  and  North  Western  Railway. 

78  M,    Railway    from  Euston  Station  in  273-2^/4  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  London  to  (47  M.)  Bletchley,  see  R.  37.  The  Oxford  line 
here  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  line.  —  55^2  M.  Verney 
Junction. 

From  Verney  .Junction  to  Banbury,  22  M.,  railway  in  .50  min.  (fares 
3s.  lOrf.,  25.  3d.,  is.  91M-)-  The  chief  intermediate  station  "is  (17  M.)  Bucking- 
ham CTF/ii'^e  j?a)'^;  ^Sficaft),  a  lace-making  town  with  3360  inhabitants.  Near 
the  town  begins  a  magnificent  avenue  of  elms,  2  M.  long,  leading  to  Stowe, 
the  princely  seat  of  Earl  Temple.  The  Comte  de  Paris  died  at  Stowe  in 
1894.  The  pleasure-gardens,  in  the  taste  of  last  century,  have  been  deser- 
vedlv  commemorated  by  Pope  (no  admittance).  —  22  M.  Banbury,  see 
p.  242. 

Another  line  runs  from  Verney  Junction  to  Aylesbury  (p.  252). 

651/2  ^1-  Bicester  (King's  Arms),  a  small  town  with  an  old  pri- 
ory-church ;  72  M.  Islip  (Swan),  birthplace  of  Edward  the  Con- 
fessor (b.  1004).  —  78  M.  Oxford,  see  p.  224. 


5m    oJX    Y^fiJ^ 


219 


32.  From  Oxford  to  London  by  the  Thames. 


A  trip  by  rowing-boat  on  the  Thames  between  Oxford  and  London 
has  now  become  quite  a  popular  institution,  and  in  fine  weather  is  cor- 
dially recommended  to  oarsmen.  The  scenery  all  the  way  is  full  of  charm 
and  interest.  From  London  Bridge  to  Oxford  the  distance  is  112  M.,  but 
this  may  be  advantageously  shortened  to  96  M.  or  to  69  M.  by  beginning 
or  ending  the  river- excursion  at  Richmond  or  Windsor.  With  proper 
precautions  the  trip  is  quite  safe  for  practised  oarsmen,  and  even  for  ladies; 
but  a  wide  berth  should  be  given  to  all  mill-streams,  weirs,  and  'lashers'. 

Boats  may  be  hired  from  Salter,  Tims,  or  Talboys,  of  Oxford,  who 
let  boats  specially  for  these  excursions,  at  rates  varying  from  30s.  for  a 
canoe  or  whitf  up  to  bl.  for  an  eight-oared  boat  and  6/.  for  a  large  four- 
oared  shallop.  These  charges  are  for  one  week  (after  which  an  extra  sum 
is  paid  for  each  day),  and  include  the  sending  of  the  boat  to  London  or 
bringing  it  back  from  London.  —  Steam  and  Electric  Launches  may  also 
be  hired  from  2/.  2s.  per  day  upwards;  and  ten  charging-stations  for  the 
latter  have  l)een  established  between  Oxford  and  Hampton. 

Locks.  There  are  33  locks  below  Oxford,  at  each  of  which  a  charge 
of  3d.  is  made  for  pair-oared  boats ,  Qd.  for  four-oared  boats,  and  is.  Qd. 
for  launches,  the  payment  entitling  the  boat  to  repass  the  same  day  with- 
out farther  toll.  When  the  gates  are  closed  the  attention  of  the  lock- 
keeper  is  attracted  by  shouts  of  'lock',  lock!'  Care  should  be  taken  in  the 
locks  to  keep  the  gunwale  from  catching  on  the  sidewalls.  At  several 
of  the  locks  there  are  inclined  planes  with  rollers  for  small  boats. 

Steamers.  In  summer  a  small  steamer  plies  between  Oxford  and 
Kingston,  when  the  state  of  the  water  allows,  taking  two  days  in  each 
direction  (fare  14».  6rf.,  return  25*.).     The  night  is  spent  at  Henley. 

Inns.  There  are  good  hotels  on  the  banks  at  frequent  intervals,  but 
equally  comfortable  accommodation  at  much  more  moderate  charges  may 
often  be  obtained  at  the  inns  a  little  way  back  from  the  river.  When 
ladies  are  of  the  party,  and  at  popular  holiday-seasons,  accommodation 
should  be  secured  beforehand  by  letter  or  telegram.  Those  who  prefer 
to  'camp  out'  may  hire  tents ,  mattresses,  and  ground-sheets  from  the 
above-mentioned  boat-owners,  and  also  at  various  places  in  London.  Heavy 
luggage  should  be  sent  by  rail. 

The  following  description  is  necessarily  little  more  than  a  note  of  a 
few  of  the  chief  places  of  interest  passed  on  the  way.  Those  who  wish 
more  details  are  advised  to  purchase  TaunVs  Map  and  Guide  to  the  Thames 
(2s.  6rf.  ;  cheap  edition  Is.,  illus.  edit.  15s.),  Reynold's  Oarsman''s  and 
Angler^ s  Map  of  the  Thames  (is.  Gd.,  coloured  2s.,  mounted  on  cloth  in 
case  4s.  6c;.),  or  Dickens's  Dictionary  of  the  Thames  (Is.).  The  first  is  most 
readily  obtained  by  direct  application  to  Taunt  <fe  Co.,  9  Broad  St.,  Ox- 
ford. The  words  'right'  and  'left'  (r.  ,  1.)  are  here  used  with  reference 
to  boats   descending  the  river. 

Among  common  sights  on  the  Thames  below  Henley  are  House  Boats, 
in  which  whole  families  sometimes  find  summer-quarters,  while  on  the 
banks  and  islands  are  often  seen  the  tents  of  camping- out  parties. 

The  start  is  usually  made  from  one  of  the  boat-builders'  yards 
close  to  Folly  Bridge.  On  the  left  are  the  College  Barges,  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Cherirell.  The  straight  reach  from  here  to  (2  M.)  the 
lock  at  Iffley,  with  its  interesting  church  and  mill  (p.  241),  is  the 
scene  of  the  university  boat-races  (p.  225). 

3  M.  (1.)  Sdndford  (King's  Arms),  with  a  Norman  church.  A 
little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  are  the  beautiful  woods  of  *Nuneham 
Courtenay  (A.  Harcourt,  Esq.),  a  favourite  spot  for  picnics  from  Ox- 
ford, and  (teste  Hawthorne)  'as  perfect  as  anything  earthly  can  be'. 

On  a  small  eminence  in  the  park  is  a  picturesque  Conduit,  which  for- 
merly stood  at  Carfax  in  Oxford.     The  avenues  on  the  river-bank,   afford- 


220     Route  3-2.  WALLINGFORD.  From  Oxford 

ing  views  of  Oxford,  Eadley,  and  Abingdon,  were  laid  out  by  'Cap- 
ability Brown'.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  park  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.  and 
to  the  garden  on  Tues.  2-5  p.m.,  by  tickets  obtained  on  written  application 
to  the  steward;  but  may  land  at  any  lime  on  a  portion  of  the  bank  re- 
served for  the  purpose. 

The  Thames  now  runs  through  flat  meadows.  73/^  M.  (r.) 
Abingdon,  see  p.  217.  — ■  10  M.  Culham  Lock,  whence  a  bridge, 
with  arches  of  four  difi'erent  shapes,  leads  to  Sutton  Courtney,  on 
the  right.  To  the  right  of  the  following  straight  reach,  between  low 
meadows,  is  a  tree-crowned  hill,  known  as  Wittenham  Clump;  a 
little  farther  on,  the  church-spire  of  Appleford  rises  among  the  trees 
on  the  right.  About  1/2  M.  below  (13  M.)  Clifton  Lock  is  (1.)  Clifton 
Hampden  (Barley  Mow) ,  with  a  picturesque  church  and  vicarage. 

16  M.  Day's  Lock ,  whence  there  is  a  pretty  view,  embracing 
Sinodun  Hill  (r.),  on  which  is  a  Roman  camp. 

To  the  left  is  the  small  river  Thame,  about  1  M.  from  the  mouth  of  which 
lieaDorchester  f  G'eorg'e,  well  spoken  of;  Flew  de  Lys ;  White  Hart),-vv\\.h  about 
1200  inhab.,  not  to  be  confounded  with  Dorchester  in  Dorsetshire  (p.  97). 
This  now  unimportant  village  was  the  seat  of  a  bishop  (of  Mercia)  from 
the  7th  cent,  till  after  the  Norman  Conquest,  when  the  see  was  removed 
to  Lincoln.  An  Augustine  abbey  was  founded  here  in  1140.  The  "Abbey 
Church,  which  Freeman  describes  as  'a  church  of  the  very  rudest  and 
meanest  order,  as  far  as  outline  and  ground-plan  are  concerned,  devel- 
oped to  abbatial  magnitude,  and  adorned  with  all  the  magnificence  that 
architecture  can  lavish  upon  individual  features',  dates  in  its  present  form 
mainly  from  the  close  of  the  13th  cent.,  but  also  comprises  much  earlier 
(Norman)  and  later  work.  It  has  lately  been  restored.  The  fine  'Jesse' 
window  of  the  chancel,  with  stone  effigies  of  the  descendants  of  David,  ia 
interesting.  Visitors  to  Dorchester  are  recommended  to  leave  their  boat 
at  Day's  Lock,  as  the  Thame  is  not  very  suitable  for  rowing. 

Beyond  Day's  Lock  the  low  banks  are  picturesquely  wooded  at 
a  little  distance  from  the  river.  A  pretty  retrospect  of  Dorchester 
church  is  obtained  just  after  the  houses  of  Shillingford  (1.)  come 
in  sight  in  front.  The  Swan  Inn,  at  the  Berkshire  (r.)  end  of 
(18 V2  ^'^•)  Shillingford  Bridge,  is  a  favourite  resort,  often  full. 

20  M.  Benson  or  Bensington  Lock.  The  village  (White  Hart, 
moderate)  lies  out  of  sight,  on  the  left. 

21  M.  (r.)  Wallingford  [Lamb;  George;  Town  Arms,  unpre- 
tending), an  ancient  town  of  2990  inhab.,  with  the  remains  of  an 
old  castle.  Sir  William  Blackstone  (d.  1780),  the  eminent  jurist, 
is  interred  in  St.  Peter's  Church.  ■ —  25  M.  Moulsford  (Beetle  and 
Wedge)  is  an  angling-resort.  The  trial  eights  of  Oxford  University 
are  rowed  in  the  reach  between  this  point  and  (26Y2  M.)  Cleeve  Lock. 

At  (27  M. ;  1.)  Goring  (Miller  of  Mansfeld)  and  (r.)  Streatley 
(Bull ;  Swan),  two  pretty  villages  united  by  a  long  bridge,  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  course  of  the  Thames  is  reached, 
extending  beyond  Mapledurdam  (p.  221).  Below  Goring  the  Thames 
Valley  is  crossed  by  a  range  of  chalk-hills,  and  the  banks  are 
thickly  wooded. 

31 V2  ^I-  fr. )  Pangbourne  (Elephant  &  Castle;  George),  a  pictur- 
esque little  village,  opposite  which  lies  Whitchurch,  with  a  modern 


to  London.  HENLEY.  32.  Route.    221 

church  incorporating  some  Norman  remains  and  containing  several 
good  brasses.  A  little  farther  down,  on  the  left  bank,  is  Hardwiek 
House.    Opposite  is  Purley  (not  Home  Tooke's ;  comp.  p.  45). 

331/2  ^1«  (!•)  Mapledurham ,  with  MapUdurham  House,  a  fine 
Elizabethan  mansion,  the  home  of  Pope's  friend,  Martha  Blount, 
On  the  right  bank,  1  M.  below  Mapledurham  lock,  lies  TUehunt 
(Roebuck), 

38  M.  (r,)  Beading,  see  p.  106,  Oarsmen  making  a  stoppage 
here  should  leave  their  boats  at  Caversham  Bridge  (White  Hart; 
Crown),  just  above  the  town,  or  at  Caversham  Lock,  just  below  it. 
About  3/4  M.  below  the  lock  the  Kennet  joins  the  Thames. 

401/2  M.  (r.)  Sonning  (White  Hart;  French  Horn),  a  delightful 
little  village,  with  an  ancient  stone  bridge.  The  church  contains 
some  interesting  brasses.  At  the  islands  a  mile  below  Sonning,  we 
keep  to  the  left.  —  At  Sluplake  (1.),  1/2  M.  above  (431/2  M.)  Shiplake 
Lock,  is  the  church  in  which  Tennyson  was  married, 

44  M.  (r,)  Wargrave  (George  &  Dragon;  White  Hart;  Bull), 
a  resort  of  artists,  with  a  church  containing  a  monument  to  Thomas 
Day,  author  of  'Sandford  and  Merton'.  The  humorous  sign-board 
of  the  first-named  inn ,  painted  by  G.  D.  Leslie ,  R.  A.,  and  J.  E. 
Hodgson,  A.  R.  A.,  is  now  kept  indoors.  —  46  M.  Marsh  Lock. 

47M.  (1.)  Henley  (Red  Lion;  Angel;  Royal;  Catherine  Wheel; 
White  Hart),  the  'Mecca'  of  boating  men,  and  also  much  frequent- 
ed by  anglers,  is  a  well-built  town  of  4900  inhab,,  surrounded  with 
wooded  heights.  The  Town  Hall  contains  a  portrait  of  George  1. 
by  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  presented  by  Lady  Kneller,  who  is  buried 
in  the  church.  The  famous  regatta,  which  attracts  many  thousands 
of  visitors  from  London,  usually  takes  place  about  the  beginning 
of  July. 

It  was  on  a  window  at  the  'Red  Lion'  that  Shenstone  wrote  hia 
famous  lines : 

'Whoe'er  has  travelled  life's  dull  round, 
Where'er  his  stages  may  have  been, 
May  sigh  to  think  he  still  has  found 
The  warmest  welcome  at  an  inn'. 

49  M.  Hambledon  Lock  (Flower  Pot,  at  Aston,  1/2  M.  farther  on). 

51  M.  (1.)  Medmenham  (Abbey  Hotel,  near  the  abbey),  another 
convenient  halting-place  for  the  night.  The  Abbey  was  founded  at 
the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  but  little  of  the  old  building  now 
remains.  About  a  century  ago  it  acquired  some  notoriety  from  its 
connection  with  the  so-called  'Medmenham  Monks'  of  John  Wilkes 
and  Francis  Dashwood,  a  club  or  society  which  was  popularly  be- 
lieved to  extend  its  motto,  'Fay  ce  que  voudras',  to  the  wildest  ex- 
tremes of  licence. 

To  the  right,  at  (53  M,)  Hurley  Lock,  is  Lady  Place,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lord  Lovelace  who  played  so  conspicuous  a  part  in  the 
Revolution  of  1688.  Beyond  (531/2  M.)  Temple  Lock,  on  the  right, 
is  Bisham  Abbey,   in  the  Tudor  style,  originally  a  priory,   but  now 


222    Route  32.  WINDSOR.  From  Oxford 

a  private  residence.  Queen  Elizabeth  lived  here  for  three  years  in 
the  reign  of  her  sister  Mary.  Bisham  Church  is  an  interesting  Nor- 
man structure. 

55  M.  (1.)  Great  Marlow  {Complete  Angler;  Crown;  George 
^Dragon;  Chequers;  Fisherman's  Retreat;  Railway,  at  the  station), 
with  5200  inhab.,  a  well-known  fishing-station,  with  a  graceful 
suspension-bridge  and  a  lofty  church-spire.  One  of  the  houses  bears 
an  inscription  recording  that  Shelley  lived  in  it  in  1817;  his  'Re- 
volt of  Islam'  was  composed  partly  in  his  boat  on  the  Thames  and 
partly  during  walks  in  the  neighbouring  woods.  A  regatta  is  held 
here  every  two  years ,  alternating  with  Maidenhead.  The  Quarry 
Woods  (^r.),  just  below  Marlow,  are  a  favourite  spot  for  camping- 
out  parties  (permission  necessary).  —  Passing  Bourne  End  (p.  218), 
on  the  left,  we  now  soon  reach  (59  M.;  r.)  Cookham  (Ferry;  King's 
Arms ;  Bel  &  Dragon),  one  of  the  most  picturesque  villages  on  the 
Thames,  with  good  fishing  (perch,  pike,  roach)  and  a  favourite  pool 
for  bathing.  In  the  church  is  a  monument,  with  bust,  to  Frederick 
Walker,  A.  R.  A.  Opposite  Cookham  is  Hedsor  (Lord  Boston),  the 
grounds  of  which  are  shewn  on  application. 

1.  *Clieveden,  since  1892  the  property  of  Mr.  W.  W.  Astor,  charm- 
ingly situated  amid  rocks  and  hanging  woods  (visitors  admitted  to 
the  grounds,  during  the  absence  of  the  family,  on  application  to 
the  head-gardener).  A  little  to  the  E.  is  Dropmore ,  the  beautiful 
grounds  of  which  (open  daily,  except  Sun.)  contain  some  magni- 
ficent pines,  the  largest  araucaria  in  England,  and  other  fine  trees. 
The  next  part  of  the  river  is  unsurpassed  for  quiet  loveliness. 

62  M.  (r.)  Maidenhead  (*Ray  Mead,  near  the  river;  Bear;  New 
Thames,  R.  &  A.  from  3.«.  6d.,  B.  2s.-2s.  6d.,  D.  from  4s.),  a  small 
town  with  10,600  inhab.,  is  a  convenient  place  for  passing  the  night. 
The  Thames  is  here  crossed  by  two  bridges.  Nearly  opposite  is  the 
pretty  village  of  Taplow  (Skindle's). 

64  M.  (r.)  JBrai/( George),  with  a  large  church,  containing  some 
excellent  brasses. 

The  famous  'Vicar  of  Bray'  is  said  to  have  been  Simon  Aleyn  (d. 
1588),  who  lived  in  the  reigns  of  Henry  VIII.,  Edward  VI.,  Mary,  and 
Elizabeth,  and  thrice  changed  his  creed.  Other  authorities  maintain  that  the 
'Bray'  of  the  song  is  in  Ireland.  —  Near  Bray  is  'Ockwells,  a  fine  spec- 
imen  of  a   timbered    manor-house  (15th  cent.),   with  interesting  interior. 

On  Monkey  Island,  where  the  stream  is  very  swift,  is  an  inn, 
frequented  by  anglers.  Numerous  country-houses  on  both  banks.  — 
67  M.  Boveney  Lock,  i^/o  M.  beyond  which  lie  Eton  (left)  and  — 

69  M.(r.)  Windsor (W/i?<e//aW,  R. &  A.4s.-7s.6rf.,  B.is.Qd.-Ss., 
with  restaurant;  Castle,  High  St.;  Royal  Adelaide,  facing  the  Long 
Walk;  Bridge  House,  R.  from  2s.  6d.,  well  spoken  of,  Christopher, 
these  two  at  Eton),  a  town  with  19,000  inhab.,  well-known  as  the 
ancestral  residence  of  the  English  sovereigns. 

William  the  Conqueror  built  a  castle  at  Windsor,  but  the  oldest  part 
of  the  present    Windsor  Castle,  which  represents  the  additions  and  alter- 


to  London.  CHERTSEY.  32.  Route.     223 

ations  of  many  monarchs,  dates  from  Edward  III.  The  last  restoration  was 
begun  under  George  IV.  and  finished  under  \'ictoria  at  a  cost  of  900,U00i. 
The  wards  of  the  castle  and  the  N.  terrace  are  always  open  to  the  public  : 
the  E.  terrace  on  Sat.  and  Sun.  only,  from  2  to  6  p.m.,  in  the  absence  of 
the  Queen.  The  Sfate  Apartments  are  shown  (in  the  absence  of  the  Queen) 
on  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.,  from  1st  April  to  Slat  Oct.,  11-4, 
from  Ist  Nov.  to  Slst  March,  11-3;  St.  George's  Chapel.,  daily  except  Wed., 
12.30  to  4,  divine  service  on  Sun.  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m.,  on  week-days 
10.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m.  The  Albert  Chapel  is  open  daily,  except  Sun.  and 
Wed.,  11  to  4  in  summer,  11  to  3  in  winter  (no  tickets).  The  worst  day 
for  a  visit  to  Windsor  is,  therefore,  Wednesday.  Tickets  of  admission  to 
the  State  Apartments  are  obtained  at  the  Lord  Chamberlain's  office  at  the 
castle.  The  Royal  Stables  (daily  1-3;  tickets  at  the  entrance;  small  fee  to 
groom  who  acts  as  guide)  are  situated  on  the  S.  side  of  the  castle.  — 
For  farther  details,  and  for  Eton  College-,  see  Baedeker''s  Handbook  for  Lon- 
don. —  From  Windsor  to  London  by  railway,  see  p.  106. 

The  best  sceuery  on  the  Thames  lies  between  Oxford  and  Wind- 
sor, and  many  tourists  begin  or  end  the  excursion  here  (boat-charges 
V5-V6  less). 

Rounding  the  next  bend,  we  pass  under  the  Victoria  Bridge. 

701/2  M.  (1.)  Datchet  (Manor  House;  Royal  Stag),  the  scene  of 
Sir  John  Falstaff's  unpleasant  experiences  at  the  hands  of  the  'Merry 
Wives  of  Windsor'.  It  is  a  favourite  haunt  of  anglers.  Beyond  the 
(71  M.)  Albert  Bridge,  the  next  bend  is  avoided  by  means  of  a  'cut', 
rejoining  the  river  at  (72  M.)  Old  Windsor  Lock,  with  waterworks 
for  supplying  Windsor  Castle.  A  little  farther  down  is  the  (r.) 
Bells  of  Ouseley  Inn,  noted  for  its  ale ;  and  about  ^/^  M.  farther  on 
is  Magna  Charta  Island,  where  King  John  signed  the  charter ;  the 
little  house  is  said  to  cover  the  very  stone  that  served  him  for  a 
table.  Opposite  (1.)  rises  Coopers  Hill,  celebrated  in  Denham's 
well-known  poem,  with  the  Royal  Indian  Engineering  College;  and 
on  Mt.  Lee  is  the  Holloway  College  for  Women,  with  a  picture 
gallery  (adm.  on  Wed.  on  application  to  the  secretary).  Below 
Coopers  Hill  is  the  famous  field  of  Runnimede,  where  the  Barons 
encamped  in  1215.  —  75  M.  Bell  Weir  Lock  (Anglers"  Rest). 

76  M.  (1.)  Staines  (Angel;  Pack  Horse),  with  a  substantial 
granite  bridge.  —  78  M.  Penton  Hook  Lock,  with  a  somewhat 
dangerous  weir.  —  A  little  farther  down,  on  the  left,  is  Laleham, 
where  Dr.  Thomas  Arnold  lived  before  he  became  headmaster  of 
Rugby.  Matthew  Arnold  (1822-88)  was  born  and  is  buried  at  Lale- 
ham. About  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station  is  St.  Annes  Hill 
(view) ,  with  the  summer  residence  of  Charles  James  Fox. 

791/.2  M.  (r.)  Chertsey  (Bridge;  Crown;  Swan),  a  small  town 
with  11,300  inhab.,  7.2  M.  from  the  river,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge.  Scanty  remains  oi  the  old  abbey  still  exist,  and  the  house 
in  which  Cowley  the  poet  died  in  1667  is  marked  by  an  inscription. 

82  M.  Shepperton  Lock  ,  opposite  which,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Wey,  is  (r.)  Weylridge  (see  p.  62),  with  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel 
in  which  Louis  Philippe  (d.  1850)  was  interred.  Shepperton 
(Anchor)  and  Halliford  (*Ship ;  Red  Lion),  lie  on  the  left  bank. 

To  the  right  is  the  Oatlands  Park  Hotel  (p.  62). 


224     Route  33.  OXFORD.  Hotels. 

841/2  M.  (r.)  Walton-on- Thames  (Angler;  Swan). 

85V2  M.  (1.)  Sunbury  (*Magpie;  Flower  Pot),  with  a  lock. 

87'/2  ^^-  OO  Hampton  (Lion),  1  M.  from  Hampton  Court  Palace. 
On  the  opposite  bank  is  Garrick's  Villa,  where  the  famous  actor  lived 
from  1754  till  his  death  in  1779.  Then  (88Y2  M.)  Moulsey  Lock 
and  Hampton  Court  Bridge,  beyond  which  the  river  makes  a  wide 
bend,  skirting  Hampton  Court  Park  (see  Baedeker's  London^  on 
the  left,  and  Thames  Ditton  (Swan)  and  Surbiton  on  the  right. 

91^2  M.  (j.')  Kingston  (Sun  5  Griffin  ;  Southampton),  a  town  with 
27,000  inhab.  (see  Baedeker's  London).  The  river  is  crossed  here 
by  a  bridge  with  five  arches. 

93 M.  (1.)  Teddington,  with  a  lock.  An  almost  unbroken  line  of 
villas  extends  hence  to  (1.)  Twickenham  (see  Baedeker's  London), 
opposite  Eel  Pie  Island.  Then  on  the  right  appears  Richmond  Hill, 
with  the  Star  and  Garter  Hotel. 

96  M.  Richmond  Bridge ,  below  which  is  the  last  lock.  For  a 
description  of  the  Thames  hence  to  (112  M.)  London  Bridge,  see 
Baedeker's  London. 

33.  Oxford. 

Railway  Stations.  The  stations  of  the  London  db  North,  Western  and 
Oreat  Western  Railways  lie  near  each  other,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town, 
—  The  principal  hotels  send  omnibuses  to  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  "Randolph  Hotel,  Beaumont  St.,  near  the  Martyrs'  Memo- 
rial, R.,  L..  &  A.  5«.  6d.,  B.  2«.,  D.  5s.;  Clarendon,  Cornmarket  St.,  R., 
L.,  <fe  A.  4s.,  B.  25.,  D.  3s.  6d. ;  Mitre,  High  St.,  an  old-fashioned  house, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  4s.  Gd.,  B.  2«.,  D.  5s.,  pens.  12s.  6(Z.  —  Second  class:  King's 
Arms,  at  the  corner  of  Park  St.  and  Holywell  St. ;  *Roebuck,X"Golden 
Cross,  George,  Cornmarket  St.;  Railway;  Wilberforce  Temperance, 
Queen  St. ;  Becket  House  Temperance,  opposite  the  stations,  unpretend- 
ing. —  Lodgings  easily  procurable,  especially  'out  of  term'.  The  charges 
of  hotels  and  lodgings  are  raised  in  'Commemoration'  and  'Eights  Week' 
(p.  228). 

Restaurants.  The  Queen,  Queen  St.;  Boffin,  Horn,  High  St.  (Nos.  107, 
142);  The  Grill;  Boffin,  at  the  N.  end  of  St.  Aldate's  St.  —  Confectioners. 
Boffin,  Horn,  see  above;  Cooper,  8  Magdalen  St. 

Photographs.  Hills  «£•  Saunders,  Cornmarket  St.,  opposite  the  Claren- 
don Hotel;  Taunt  d-  Co.,  9  Broad  St.;  Gillmon,  107  St.  Aldate's  St. 

Post  Office  (PI.  34;  B,  C,  3),  St.  Aldate's  St.,  near  Carfax. 

Tramways.  1.  From  the  Railway  Station  to  Carfax  iid.),  and  thence 
over  Magdalen  Bridge  (Id.  from  Carfax)  to  the  cricket-grounds  at  Cowley 
(Sd.).  —  2.  From  Carfax  to  the  Corn  Market,  whence  one  branch  leads  to 
a  point  near  Medley  Lock  (where  the  'Upper  River'  begins;  fare  2d.),  an- 
other to  Summertown.  —  3.  From  Carfax,  past  Christ  Church  and  over 
Folly  Bridge,  to  New  Binksey  (fare  id.). 

Cab  for  not  exceeding  I1/4  M.,  for  1  pers.  Is.,  each  addit.  pers.  Qd.  ; 
for  each  addit.  V2  M.  6d.  for  each  pers. ;  from  the  stations  to  the  town, 
2  pers.,  Is.  6d. ;  per  hour  for  1-2  pers.  2s.  Qd.,  each  addit.  pers.  6d.  Fare 
and  a  half  between  midnight  and  6  a.m.     Luggage  up  to  112 lbs.  free. 

Guides,  Is.  per  hour,  are  of  little  use. 

Boats  may  be  hired  on  the  Isis,  for  the  'Lower  River'  at  Christ  Church 
Meadow  (p.  231)  and  for  the  'Upper  River'  at  Medley  Lock  (see  above).  The 
latter  is  frequented  mainly  by  the  less  serious  oarsman  and  the  votary 
of  'centre-boarding'  (sailing),  while  the  lower  river  is  left  to  those  in 
training  for  the  races.  The  Cherwell  is  also  available  for  boating.  The 
course  where  all  the  college-races  are  decided  extends  from  Iffley  (p.  219)  to 


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History.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     225 

the  College  Barges,  which  are  moored  to  the  bank  at  Christchurch  Meadow. 
The  principal  races  (the  'Eights")  are  rowed  in  the  middle  of  the  summer 
term;  the  'Torpids"  in  the  Lent  term. 

Baths.  Turkish  Baths,  Merton  St.  (2*.  6d. ;  swimming-bath  is.);  Hoi  and 
Cold  Baths  (6d.),  at  the  Racquet  Courts,  Holywell,  and  Museum  Terrace. 
—  River  Baths :  University  Bathing  Place,  on  the  Isis,  near  Clasper's  Boat 
House  (towels  3</.)',  on  the  Cherwell,  near  the  Parks  (towels  6c?.). 

Principal  Attractions.  Christ  Church  (p.  228);  Merton  College  (p.  230); 
Christ  Church  Meadow  (p.  231);  Broad  Walk  (p.  231);  St.  Marys  Church 
(p.  231);  Radclife  Library  (p.  231)  and  view  from  the  top;  Bodleian  Li- 
brary (p.  232);  Divinity  School  (p.  233);  Theatre  (p.  233);  University  Museum 
(p.  234);  Taylorian  Institute  (p.  238);  New  College  (p.  234);  Magdalen  College 
(p.  235),  with  its  beautiful  grounds;  Balliol  College  (p.  238):  All  Souls 
College  (p.  237);  Exeter  College  (p.  237),  with  its  garden;  St.  Johns  College 
(p.  239),  with  its  gardens;  gardens  of  Worcester,  Wadham,  and  Trinity 
Colleges  (pp.  239,  233,  238).  A  college-chapel  service  should  be  attended  at 
New  College,  Magdalen,  or  Christ  Church;  and  the  visitor  should  also  see  a 
boat-race  and  a  cricket  or  football  match  in  the  Parks.  The  'Procession  of 
Boats"  on  the  Mon,  of  Commemoration  Week  (p.  228)  is  a  highly  charac- 
teristic sight.  Visitors  may  wander  at  will  about  the  colleges  and  college 
gardens.  The  chapels  are  generally  open  for  2  hrs.  in  the  forenoon  and  2  hrs, 
in  the  afternoon,  and  admission  tj  them  when  closed,  as  well  as  to  the 
halls  and  libraries,  may  be  obtained  on  application  to  the  porter  (small  fee). 

Oxford,  "with  53,000  iahab.,  the  county-town  of  Oxfordshire, 
an  episcopal  see,  and  the  seat  of  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  cele- 
brated universities  in  Europe,  is  situated  amid  picturesque  environs 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Cherwell  and  the  Thames  (often  called  in 
its  upper  course  the  Isis).  It  is  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of 
gentle  hills,  the  tops  of  which  command  a  flue  view  of  the  city, 
with  its  domes  and  towers.  Oxford  is  on  the  whole  more  attractive 
than  Cambridge  to  the  ordinary  visitor,  who  should  therefore  visit 
Cambridge  first,  or  omit  it  altogether  if  he  cannot  visit  both. 

Oxford  (called  Oxeneford  in  Domesday  Book,  but  possibly  a  corrup- 
tion of  Ousenford,  or  ford  over  the  Ouse  or  water)  is  a  town  of  some 
antiquity,  the  nucleus  of  which  seems  to  have  been  the  nunnery  of  St. 
Frideswide,  established  on  the  site  of  the  present  cathedral,  probably  in 
the  8th  century.  The  earliest  documentary  occurrence  of  the  name  Oxi'ord 
is  in  the  Anglo-Saxon  Chronicle  under  the  year  912.  In  the  11th  cent, 
the  town  was  a  place  of  military  importance  and  the  scene  of  several 
meetings  of  the  Witenagemot.  The  foundation  of  the  University  is  apo- 
cryphally  ascribed  to  King  Alfred  in  972,  but  the  first  gathering  of  masters 
and  scholars,  not  attached  to  monastic  establishments,  took  place  in  the 
i2thcent.,  while  it  was  not  till  the  following  cent,  that  anything  like  colleges 
in  the  modern  meaning  of  the  word  —  i.e.  endowed  and  incorporated  bo- 
dies of  masters  and  students  within  the  University  —  came  into  existence 
(comp.  below).  We  first  hear  of  theological  lectures  about  1130,  and  of  legal 
studies  a  little  later  (hut  both  of  these  are  doubtful);  while  by  the  be- 
ginning of  the  13th  cent.  Oxford  ranked  with  the  most  important  univer- 
sities of  Europe.  About  this  period  the  University  seems  to  have  been  at 
times  attended  by  as  many  as  300U  students,  but  during  the  religious 
troubles  of  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  the  number  fell  to  lOU).  During  the 
Civil  War  Oxford  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Royalists,  and  the  colleges 
loyally  devoted  their  plate  to  the  King's  service.  Since  then  the  history 
of  the  town  has  been  blended  with  that  of  the  University,  which  in  turn 
connects  itself  by  a  thousand  links  with  the  intellectual  and  moral  devel- 
opment of  England.  A  reminder  mav  onlv  be  liiven  of  the  'Methodist  Move- 
ment' of  1729-35  and  the  'Tractarian  Movement"  of  1833-46.  —  The  old 
'Town  and  Gown  Riots",  of  which  the  most  serious  (in  1354)  resulted  in 
the  death  of  fifty  students,   are  now  practically  things  of  the  past. 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.  4th  Ddit.  15 


226     Route  33.  OXFORD.  University 

'The  world,  surely,  has  not  another  place  like  Oxford;  it  is  a  despair 
to  see  such  a  place  and  ever  to  leave  it,  for  it  would  take  a  lifetime 
and  more  than  one,  to  comprehend  and  enjoy  it  satisfactorily'  (Na(. 
Hatethorne). —  Comp.  Maxwell  Lytes  excellent  'History  of  the  University  of 
Oxford'  (1887),  Boases  'Oxford'  ('Historic  Towns  Series';  1887),  Brodt-ick's 
short  'History  of  Oxford'  (1886),  Andrew  Lang's  'Oxford'  (1890),  or  A.  Clark's 
(editor)  'Colleges  of  Oxford'  (1891). 

The  universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge  (see  p.  440)  have  preserved 
so  many  of  their  mediaeval  institutions  unaltered,  and  difier  so  materially 
from  the  other  universities  of  Great  Britain,  as  well  as  from  those  in 
Continental  Europe  and  America,  that  a  short  account  of  their  constitu- 
tions and  position  will,  perhaps,  not  be  out  of  place. 

Each  of  the  sister-universities  is  composed  of  a  number  of  independent 
Colleges  and  Halls,  of  which  Oxford  now  possesses  twenty-three  and  Cam- 
bridge eighteen.  The  germ  of  these  colleges,  which  are  an  institution  now 
peculiar  to  England,  is  found  in  the  'hostels',  'inns',  or  'halls',  in  which 
at  an  early  period  the  students  combined  to  obtain  the  services  of  a 
common  teacher  (comp.  above).  Many  of  the  colleges  have  been  richly 
endowed  by  kings  and  private  persons;  the  halls  differ  mainly  in  being 
smaller,  poorer,  and  unincorporated.  The  government  of  each  university 
consists  in  the  last  resort  of  the  entire  body  of  graduates  who  have  kept 
their  names  on  the  university  registers,  which  is  called  the  Senate  at  Cam- 
bridge and  Convocation  at  Oxford.  Proposals  or  statutes  are,  however,  in 
the  first  instance  brought  before  a  small  representative  Council  (called  at 
Oxford  the  Hebdomadal  Council,  at  Cambridge  the  Council  of  the  Senate), 
consisting  of  the  chief  university  officials,  a  few  heads  of  colleges,  and 
some  senior  members  of  Senate  or  Convocation.  At  Oxford  the  measures, 
before  being  submitted  to  Convocation,  must  receive  the  approval  of 
Congregation,  which  consists  of  the  officials  and  resident  members  of 
Convocation.  Corresponding  to  this  at  Cambridge  is  the  Electoral  Roll, 
the  function  of  which  is  to  elect  the  Council  of  the  Senate.  The  prin- 
cipal executive  officials  are  the  Chancellor,  elected  by  the  Senate  and 
Convocation,  and  the  Vice- Chancellor,  who  at  Oxford  is  nominated  from  the 
number  of  the  heads  of  colleges  by  the  Chancellor,  while  at  Cambridge 
he  is  elected  by  the  Senate.  The  former  is  a  person  of  royal  blood  or  a 
nobleman  of  high  rank  and  reputation,  while  the  duties  of  the  office  are 
performed  by  the  Vice-Chancellor.  The  Proctors  are  two  officers  selected 
from  the  different  colleges  in  rotation  to  preserve  order  among  the  students; 
they  are  aided  by  four  pro-proctors  and  a  number  of  subordinate  officials, 
popularly  known  as  Bull-dogs.  The  internal  affairs  of  each  college  are 
managed  by  a  Head,  who  bears  the  title  of  Master,  Principal,  Provost, 
Warden,  Rector,  or  President  (at  Christ  Church,  Dean).  He  is  assisted  by 
Fellows,  who  are  selected  from  the  most  distinguished  Graduates  and 
have  the  right  to  elect  the  Head.  It  is  not  generally  necessary  that  the 
Fellows  should  have  been  students  of  the  college  in  which  they  obtain 
their  fellowships,  though  at  Cambridge  this  is  usual.  The  Fellows  and  Tu- 
tors are  colloquially  known  as  Dons. 

The  Undergraduates,  or  students,  now  live  either  in  one  of  the  colleges, 
where  two  or  more  rooms  are  assigned  to  each,  or  in  private  lodgings  in 
the  town,  approved  by  the  university  authorities.  They  dine  together  in 
the  college-halls,  attend  service  in  the  college-chapels  on  Sundays  and 
several  times  during  the  week  (except  those  who  have  conscientious 
scruples),  and  are  not  allowed  to  remain  out  beyond  midnight  without 
special  reason.  The  'Non-Collegiate  Students',  i.e.  students  of  the  Univer- 
sity, not  members  of  a  college,  who  live  in  lodgings  in  the  town,  now 
form  about  Viath  of  the  whole  number  of  undergraduates.  They  are  under 
the  control  of  a  Censor,  and  meet  for  lectures,  etc.,  in  a  building  pro- 
vided by  the  university  (p.  236).  At  lectures,  dinner,  and  chapel,  throughout 
the  day  on  Sundays  (at  Cambi-idge) ,  and  after  dark  on  other  days,  the 
undergraduates  are  supposed  to  wear  an  academical  costume,  consisting 
of  a  black  (or  dark-blue)  gown  and  a  curious  square  cap  known  as  a 
'trencher"  or  'mortar-board'.  The  Bachelors  and  Masters  of  Arts  also  wear 
an  academical  dress,   differing  in  some  details  from  that  of  the  students, 


Regulations.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     227 

while  Doctors,  on  state  occasions,  are  resplendent  in  robes  of  scarlet  and 
other  brilliant  hues.  At  the  services  on  Sundays,  festivals,  and  the  eves 
of  festivals,  Cambridge  graduates  and  undergraduates  wear  white  surplices 
instead  of  their  black  gowns.  At  Oxford,  while  Christ  Church  and  Keble 
follow  the  Cambridge  practice,  the  ase  of  the  surplice  is  generally  restricted 
to  the  Heads,  Fellows,  and  Scholars.  —  Ladi/  Sivdents,  see  p.  240. 

The  chief  subjects  taught  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge  include  ancient 
languages,  mathematics,  philosophy,  history,  theology,  law,  medicine,  and 
natural  science.  The  university  year  is  divided  into  four  'terms'  at  Ox- 
ford and  three  at  Cambridge,  and  does  not  include  much  more  than  half 
of  the  calendar  year.  At  Oxford  all  students,  who  have  not  previously 
passed  an  equivalent  examination,  have  to  present  themselves  at  latest 
after  one  year  of  residence  for  'Kesponsions'  (in  student  parlance,  'Smalls'), 
an  examination  in  classics  and  elementary  mathematics,  entitling  them  to 
continue  their  studies  for  a  degree.  The  corresponding  examination  at 
Cambridge  is  called  the  Previous  Examination  (vulgo  'Little-go').  These 
are  followed  by  the  first  Public  Examination  or  'Moderations'  ('Mods.') 
at  Oxford  and  by  the  General  Examination  at  Cambridge.  The  subjects 
are  classics,  mathematics  of  a  somewhat  more  advanced  character,  and 
the  Greek  New  Testament,  to  which  Cambridge  has  recently  added  English 
history  and  an  English  essay.  The  pass  examination  for  the  ordinary 
degree  of  Bachelor  of  Arts  (B.A.)  is  known  as  the  Second  Public  Examina- 
tion or  'Greats'  at  Oxford.  It  takes  place  at  the  end  of  the  third  year 
of  residence.  At  Cambridge  it  consists  of  a  special  examination  in  one 
of  several  specified  branches  of  study  at  the  option  of  the  candidate.  At 
Oxford  the  candidate  for  the  ordinary  degree  is  examined  in  three  selected 
subjects  from  the  following  groups:  (1)  Greek  and  Roman  history  and 
philosophy  (in  the  original  languages);  (2)  English,  Modern  Languages, 
Political  Economy,  and  Law;  (3)  Geometry,  Mechanics,  Chemistry,  and 
Physics;  (4)  Scriptural  and  Theological  Subjects.  One  of  the  selected 
subjects  must  be  either  ancient  philosophy  and  history,  or  a  modern 
language  (French  or  German).  Those  students,  however,  who  desire  to 
distinguish  themselves  in  their  academical  career  are  not  content  to  take 
merely  the  ordinary  'pass'  degree  ('poll'  at  Cambridge;  Greek,  ol  itoXXoi), 
but  proceed  to  the  'Honours'  examination.  At  Oxford  honours  may  be 
taken  in  any  one  of  eight  'schools':  Literse  Humaniores  (including  classics, 
ancient  history,  and  philosophy),  Modern  History,  Jurisprudence,  Natural 
Science,  Mathematics,  Oriental  (Indian  or  Semitic)  Subjects,  Theology,  and 
English  Language  and  Literature  (added  in  1894).  Successful  candidates 
are  placed  in  four  classes  according  to  the  position  they  attain,  and  it 
requires  a  very  high  standard  of  scholarship  to  obtain  a  'first'.  The 
highest  prestige  attaches  to  those  who  have  obtained  a  first-class  in  Literac 
Humaniores.  At  Cambridge  the  honour-degrees  are  obtained  in  a  similar 
manner,  ten  'Triposes'  taking  the  place  of  the  Oxford  'Schools'.  The 
greatest  interest  centres  in  the  examination  for  mathematical  honours, 
where  the  successful  candidates  in  the  earlier  parts  of  the  examinations 
are  arranged  in  a  'Tripos',  of  three  classes,  called  respectively  Wranglers, 
Senior  Optimes,  and  Junior  Optimes.  The  first  man  in  the  examination 
is  named  the  Senior  Wrangler.  There  is  a  farther  examination  for  which 
only  high  wranglers  ever  enter.  Bachelors  of  Arts  who  have  paid  all  the 
requisite  dues  and  fees  become  Masters  of  Arts  (M.A.)  after  three  years, 
and  are  thenceforth  entitled  to  a  vote  in  the  University  Convocation  or 
Senate.  Both  universities  also  confer  the  degrees  of  Bachelor  and  Doctor 
of  Medicine,  Law  (D.  C.  L.  at  Oxford.  LL.  D.  at  Cambridge).  Theology, 
and  Music. 

The  system  of  teaching  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge  differs  from  that  of 
most  other  universities  in  the  practically  subordinate  position  occupied  by 
professorial  lectures,  which  in  most  cases  stand  practically  out  of  all 
relation  to  the  general  studies  of  the  undergraduates.  Professorial  teach- 
ing is,  however,  beginning  to  be  more  highly  valued.  The  teaching  func- 
tions of  the  colleges  were  formerly  confined  to  the  preparation  of  their 
own  students  by  tuition  for  the  examinations;  but  now  most  of  the  Honours 
Lectures  given  by   colleges   are   open    to   all   members   of  the  University. 

15* 


228   Route  33.  OXFORD.  Christ  Church. 

Most  of  the  Fellowships,  generally  ranging  from  2001.  to  300/.  a  year,  were 
formerly  granted  for  life,  provided  the  holder  remained  unmarried  and 
took  holy  orders.  Now,  however,  they  are  of  two  kinds,  some  ('Prize' 
Fellowships)  being  held  for  6-7  years  and  without  restriction  as  to  mar- 
riage, residence,  or  profession;  while  the  tenure  of  others  is  conditional 
on  the  performance  of  tutorial  or  other  college  work.  There  are  also 
numerous  Scholarships  for  undergraduates,  varying  in  value  from  30?.  to 
120L,  with  free  rooms.  Some  of  the  colleges  are  extremely  wealthy,  such 
as  Trinity  College  at  Cambridge  (p.  444),  and  Christ  Church  and  Magdalen 
at  Oxford  (pp.  228,  235).  The  total  revenue  of  Oxford  Universitv  and 
Colleges  is  upwards  of  400,000;. ,  and  that  of  Cambridge  about  250,000?, 
Oxford  has  in  its  gift  450  ecclesiastical  livings  (value  190,000/.),  and  Cam- 
bridge 870  livings  (value  upwards  of  100,000/.).  The  number  of  students  at 
each  college  or  hall  varies  from  12-20  to  600  (Trini  ty  College,  Cambridge). 

Oxford  and  Cambridge  are  the  most  aristocratic  universities  of  Great 
Britain,  and  the  cost  of  living  is  higher  than  at  any  of  the  others.  From 
150/.  to  200/.  may  be  taken  as  the  rate  per  annum  at  which  a  resident 
undergraduate  may  live  at  either  university  with  comfort,  though  some 
have  been  known  to  confine  their  expenses  to  100/.  Non-collegiate  students 
in  private  lodgings  can,  of  course,  live  more  cheaply,  and  a  few  colleges 
(such  as  Keble  at  Oxford  and  Selwyn  at  Cambridge)  make  a  special  point 
of  economy.  The  number  of  student-clubs  is  legion,  including  associations 
for  all  kinds  of  athletic  sports,  gymnastics,  music,  theatricals,  whist, 
chess,  and  various  scientific  pursuits.  The  most  important  institution 
of  the  kind  at  each  university  is  the  "Union  Debating  Society  (pp.  239, 
446).  The  well-known  annual  boat-race  between  the  sister-universities 
is  described  in  Baedeker's  London,  and  the  inter-university  cricket-match 
excites  scarcely  less  interest.  Both  universities  possess  volunteer  rifle- 
corps.  The  best  time  for  a  visit  to  either  university  is  the  week  at  the  end 
of  the  summer  term,  when  thousands  of  visitors  flock  to  see  the  degrees 
conferred  and  enjoy  the  hospitality  of  the  colleges.  This  period  of  mingled 
work  and  play  (the  latter  predominating)  is  named  Commemoration  or 
the  Encaenia  at  Oxford,  and  Commencement  or  the  May  Week  (so  called, 
though  held  in  June)  at  Cambridge.  Another  pleasant  time  for  a  visit  is 
the  -Eights  Week\  in  the  middle  of  the  same  term,  when  the  principal 
college  cricket-matches  and  boat-races  are  held.  The  visitor  should  avoid 
the  vacations  at  Christmas,  at  Easter,  and  in  summer;  the  last,  known  as 
the  'Long',  extends  from  .Tune  to  the  beginning  of  October.  It  is  almost 
needless  to  add  that  an  introduction  to  a  'Don'  will  add  greatly  to  the 
visitor's  pleasure  and  profit. 

Details  about  the  inner  arrangements  of  the  colleges  and  daily  life 
of  the  undergraduates  will  be  most  easily  found  in  the  Students  Hand- 
books to  the  Universities,  Dickens''s  Dictionaries  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge 
{is.  each),  or  the   University  Calendars. 

Oxford  contains  21  colleges  and  2  halls,  with  about  50  pro- 
fessors ,  30  readers  or  lecturers,  300  fellows,  besides  numerous 
tutors,  and  3000  students.  There  are  also  two  Private  Halls  under 
'licensed  masters'.  As  the  railway-stations  lie  in  the  least  attract- 
ive part  of  the  town,  the  visitor  should  drive  at  once,  by  omnibus 
or  cab,  passing  the  Castle  (p.  240),  to  Christ  Church,  with  which 
a  round  of  sight-seeing  is  conveniently  begun. 

*Chri8t  Church  (PI.  14;  C,  4),  known  among  its  own  members 
as  the  'House'  (A^des  Christi),  was  founded  by  Card.  Wolsey  in  1524, 
on  the  site  of  a  nunnery  of  the  8th  cent,  (comp.  p.  225),  and  was 
renewed  by  Henry  VIH.  in  1546.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
fashionable  colleges  in  Oxford,  and  is  attended  by  250-300  under- 
graduates. The  'Fellows'  are  here  called  'Students'.  The  handsome 
gateway,  called  Tom  Gate,  was  begun  by  Wolsey,  but  the  upper 


Cathedral.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     229 

part  of  the  tower  was  added  by  Wren  in  1682.  The  bell  ('Great 
Tom')  in  the  latter  weighs  71/2  tons,  and  every  night  at  five  minutes 
past  nine  it  peals  a  curfew  of  101  strokes,  indicating  the  number 
of  students  on  the  foundation.  College-gates  are  closed  all  over 
Oxford  five  minutes  later.  The  Oreat  Quadrangle,  or  Tom  Quad^ 
is  the  largest  and  most  imposing  in  Oxford. 

In  the  S.E.  corner  is  the  line  fan-vaulted  entrance  to  the  ^ Hall  (adm. 
2c/.),  a  beautiful  room  with  a  ceiling  of  carved  oak,  115  ft.  long,  4U  ft. 
wide,  and  50  ft.  high.  It  contains  numerous  good  portraits,  including 
those  of  Wolsey  and  Henry  VIII.  by  Holbein,  (^ueen  Elizabeth  by  Zucchero, 
John  Locke  by  Lely,  Gladstone  hy  Millais,  Canon  Liddon,  by  Herkumer, 
two  by  Gainsborough,  and  three  by  Reynolds.  Good  old  glass  in  the  S.  oriel 
window.  —  The  Kitchen  (small  fee  to  the  cook) ,  the  oldest  part  of  Wol- 
sey's  building,  is  an  interesting  specimen  of  an  old  English  kitchen ;  it  is 
reached  by  a  staircate  descending  Imm  the  door  of  the  hall. 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  4)  of  the  diocese  of  Oxford,  originally  the 
church  of  the  priory  of  St.  Frideswide  (p.  225),  serves  at  the  same 
time  as  the  chapel  of  Christ  Church.  In  its  present  form  it  seems 
mainly  a  late-Norman  or  Transitional  building  of  the  second  half 
of  the  12th  cent.,  though  some  recent  authorities  believe  that  much 
of  a  pre-Normau  church  of  the  beginning  of  the  11th  cent,  is  still 
in  situ,  pointing  to  the  junction  of  11th  cent,  and  12th  cent,  work 
at  the  N.  and  S.W.  corners  of  the  choir.  The  Lady  Chapel  was  added 
in  the  13th,  and  the  Latin  Chapel  in  the  14th  century.  The  lower 
part  of  the  tower  (144  ft.  high)  is  Norman,  but  the  belfry-stage  and 
the  octagonal  spire  (perhaps  the  oldest  in  England)  are  E.  E.  Wolsey 
removed  half  of  the  nave  to  make  room  for  his  college  quadrangle; 
and  the  cathedral  as  it  now  stands  is  the  smallest  inEngland.  Daily 
services  at  10  a.m.  and  5  p.m.;  adm.,  free,  10-1  and  2.30-4.30. 
The  building  has  been  skilfully  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott. 

Interior.  The  most  striking  feature  in  the  Navc  is  the  curious 
arrangement  of  the  arches,  which  are  double,  the  lower  ones  springing 
from  corbels  attached  to  the  massive  piers.  These  last  are  alternately  cir- 
cular and  octagonal.  The  pointed  arches  of  the  clerestory  are  the 
nearest  approach  to  the  E.E.  style  in  the  main  part  of  the  church.  The 
timber  roof  is  generally  ascribed  to  Wolsey.  The  pulpit  and  organ-screen 
are  Jacobean.  The  most  interesting  tombs  in  the  nave  are  those  oi  Bishop 
Berkeley  (d.  1753)  and  Dr.  Pusey  (d.  1882).  The  beautiful  W.  window  of  the 
S.  aisle  was  executed  by  Morris,  from  the  design  of  Bume- Jones.  —  A  good 
general  view  of  the  interior  is  obtained  from  the  platform  in  the  S. 
Transept.  In  the  E.  wall  of  the  aisle  of  this  transept  is  an  old  stained-glass 
window,  from  which  the  head  of  St.  Thomas  of  Canterbury,  now  replaced 
by  plain  white  glass,  is  said  to  have  been  struck  by  a  Puritan  trooper. 
—  The  Choir  resembles  the  nave  in  general  character,  though  probably  of 
somewhat  earlier  date.  The  beautiful  groined  roof,  with  its  graceful 
pendants,  is  also  attributed  to  Wolsey,  but  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  considers  it 
still  earlier.  The  E.  end  is  intended  to  reproduce  as  far  as  possible  the 
orit^inal  Norman  arrangement.  The  'Windows  at  the  E.  ends  of  the 
cho^ir-aisles  are  also  by  Bume-Jones.  The  Stalls  and  the  elaborate  Epis- 
copal Throne  (a  memorial  of  Bishop  Wilberforce)  are  modern.  The  S. 
choir-aisle  contains  a  bust  of  the  late  Duke  of  Albany  (d.  1834). 

Adjoining  the  N.  aisle  of  the  choir  is  the  Laut  Chapel,  an  E.E.  ad- 
dition of  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent.,  occupying  a  very  unusual  position. 
The  E.  window  is  by  Burne-Jones.  On  the  N.  side  are  a  series  of  inter- 
esting   monuments:    Sir    Oeorge    Nowers    (d.    1425)    and    Lady    Montacute 


230   Route  33.  OXFORD.  Merton. 

(d.  1363),  with  fine  effigies;  the  Prior's  Tomb  (ca.  13C0);  and  the  so-called 
Shrine  of  St.  Frideswide  (15th  or  16th  cent.),  more  probably  a  watching- 
chamber.  On  the  pier  at  the  foot  of  the  monument  of  Sir  George  Xowers 
is  the  tablet  of  Robert  Burton  (d.  1639),  author  of  the  'Anatomy  of  Melan- 
choly', with  an  inscription  by  himself.  —  To  the  X.  of  the  Lady  Chapel 
is  the  Dec.  Latix  Chafel  (14th  cent.),  so  called  from  the  daily  reading 
of  the  college-prayers  in  Latin.  The  tlowing  tracery  of  the  windows  and 
the  vault-bosses  deserve  attention.  The  new  E.  window  has  poor  tracery, 
but  good  stained  glass  (by  Burne- Jones;  St.  Frideswide).  —  The  E.E. 
Chaptek  House  is  entered  by  a  fine  late-lsorman  door  in  the  E.  aide  of 
the  Cloisters  (Perp.),  to  the  S.  of  the  nave  (canons  order  necessary). 

We  now  return  through  the  Great  Quadrangle ,  passing  the 
Dean's  house  on  the  right,  and  enter  Peckwattr  Quadrangle  (1705). 

On  the  S.  side  is  the  Library  (1761),  containing  a  valuable  collection 
of  books  and  a  few  paintings  and  drawings  by  Italian  masters  (Raphael, 
etc.:  11-1  and  2-4,  in  vacation  9-6;  adm.  3d.).  The  pictures  include  a 
^'ativity  by  Titian,  examples  of  Giotto.  Cimabue,  and  Margaritone,  and 
a  curious  Butcher's  Shop  by  A.  Carracci.  Many  of  the  drawings  are  also 
interesting.  In  the  entrance-hall  is  a  statue  by  Chantrey.  and  on  the  stair- 
case are  a  bust  of  Persephone  by  Hiram  Powers  and  a  statue  of  John 
Locke  by  Rysbrack.  The  curiosities  of  the  library  (upstairs)  include  a 
letter  of  Charles  II.  and  a  Latin  exercise  book  of  the  Duke  of  Gloucester, 
son  of  Queen  Anne,  with  corrections  by  his  tutor  Bishop  Burnet  (i7(X)). 

To  the  S.  of  Tom  Quad  are  the  modern  Christ  Church  Meadow 
Buildinys,  the  great  gate  of  which  forms  one  of  the  chief  ap- 
proaches to  the  Broad  "Walk  and  the  river  (comp.  p.  231). 

To  the  N.  is  Canterbury  Quad.  Here  we  leave  the  college  by 
Canterbury  Gate,  on  the  site  of  Canterbury  College,  an  extinct  cor- 
poration of  which  Wycliffe  (d.  1384)  was  once  Warden,  and  which 
numbered  Sir  Thomas  More  (beheaded  1535)  among  its  students. 

Among  the  most  distinguished  members  of  Christ  Church  are  Sir  Philip 
Sidney,  Locke,  Camden,  Ben  Jonson,  the  Wesleys,  Wellington,  Peel,  Pusey, 
Liddon,  Euskin,  and  Gladstone.  This  was  also  the  Prince  of  Wales's  college. 

From  Canterbury  Gate,  King  Street  leads  to  the  E.,  with  the 
side  of  Oriel  College  to  the  left.   To  the  right  is  the  entrance  to  — 

Corpus  Christi  College  (PL  15;  C,  4),  founded  in  1516  by  Foxe, 
Bishop  of  Winchester,  whose  crozier  is  preserved  here.  This  is  said  to 
be  the  only  college  in  Oxford  that  did  not  melt  its  plate  for  Charles  I. 

The  vaulted  roof  of  the  gateway  leading  to  the  quadrangle  is  fine, 
and  the  latter  contains  a  curious  old  sun-dial  with  a  perpetual  calendar. 
In  the  S.E.  corner  is  the  Chapel  (with  an  altar-piece  by  Eubens),  and  be- 
side it  is  the  passage  to  the  cloisteis  and  to  the  newer  part  of  the  college, 
added  in  1706.  The  Library  is  rich  in  illuminated  MSS.  and  incunabula. 
Richard  Hooker  was  a  student  of  Corpus,  and  his  rooms  are  still  pointed 
out;  other  eminent  members  are  Cardinal  Pole,  Bishop  Jewel,  Gen.  Ogle- 
thorpe (founder  of  Georgia).  Keble,  Thomas  Arnold,  Chief-Justice  Cole- 
ridge, and  Thomas  Day,  author  of  'Sandford  and  Merton'. 

On  leaving  Corpus  we  turn  to  the  right  (E.),  and,  passing  the 
chapel,  reach  the  entrance  (to  the  right)  of  — 

*Merton  College  (PI.  21;  C,  4),  the  oldest  in  the  University, 
founded  by  Walter  de  Merton  in  1264  at  Maiden  in  Surrey  but 
transferred  to  Oxford  in  1274,  and  originally  intended  exclusively 
for  the  education  of  parish-priests. 

The  "Chapel  (10  5)  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Oxford:  the  choir  was  built 
by  the  founder  and  consecrated  in  1276,  while  the  ante-chapel  and  tower 


Radcliffe  Library.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     231 

date  from  1417-24  (college  aervices  on  Sun.  at  8  a.m.  and  5  p.m.,  5.45  in 
summer  term;  parish-service  at  3  p.m.).  The  massive  tower  is  one  of  the 
landmarks  of  Oxford.  The  windows  of  the  ante-chapel  are  excellent 
examples  of  early -Perpendicular.  The  chapel  contains  two  very  fine 
brasses  of  the  14th  and  loth  cent.,  and  Anthony  a  Wood  (d.  169oj,  the 
chronicler  of  Oxford,  is  buried  in  the  ante-chapel.  The  Library,  built  at 
the  end  of  the  l4th  cent.,  is  the  m(st  ancient  in  England  and  contains 
many  rare  books  and  MSS.  The  Inner  Quadrangle  is  a  good  example  of 
the  Jacobean  style.  The  so-called  'Queen's  Room'  in  the  ^yardens  Bouse 
commemorates  the  fact  that  Queen  Henrietta  3Iaria  was  lodged  here  in 
1643.  Duns  Scotus,  Steele,  and  Bodley  (founder  of  the  Bodleian  Library) 
are  among  the  most  distinguished  alumni  of  Merton,  which  has  also  con- 
tributed six  archbishops  to  the  see  of  Canterbury.  Harvey  (discoverer  of 
the  circulation  of  the  blood;  comp.  p.  444)  was  Master.  The  garden  com- 
mands a  fine  view:  to  the  E.  is  Magdalen  Tower,  to  the  W.  the  Cathe- 
dral, in  front  Christ  Church  Meadow  (PI.  C,  4,  5).  The  latter,  which  is 
intersected  by  the  "Broad  Walk,  an  avenue  of  noble  elms,  may  be  reached 
by  the  lane  between  Merton  and  Curpus.  The  Broad  Walk  is  the  scene 
of  '■Show  Sunday\  formerly  a  fashionable  promenade  on  the  evening  of 
the  Sunday  in  Commemoration  Week  (p.  228),  but  now  almost  wholly 
resigned  by  'Gown'  to  'Town\  A  delightful  walk  may  be  taken  from 
Christ  Church  Meadow  along  the  Isis,  passing  the  College  Barges  (p.  225), 
to  the  Cherwell  and  Magdalen  College  (comp.  p.  236). 

Incorporated  witli  Merton  is  St.  Alban  Hall  (PI.  37),  founded 
in  1230,  with  a  facade  of  1600.  Among  the  eminent  names  connected 
■with  this  small  institution  are  Massinger,  Whateley,  and  Speaker 
Lenthall.  —  We  now  return  to  the  W.  end  of  Merton  St.,  where 
Oriel  St.  diverges  to  the  right.    In  it,  on  the  right,  stands  — 

Oriel  College  (PI.  23;  C,  4),  founded  in  1326,  nominally  by 
Edward  II.  hut  actually  hy  Adam  de  Brome.  The  present  build- 
ings date  mainly  from  1630-37,  and  though  destitute  of  marked 
architectural  merit  form  a  picturesque  and  pleasing  whole.  The 
library  was  erected  in  1788.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  Bishop  Butler, 
Gilbert  White  of  Selborne.  John  Henry  Newman,  Abp.  Whateley, 
Keble,  Dr.  Thomas  Arnold,  Bishop  Wilberforce ,  A.  H.  Clough, 
Thomas  Hughes,  and  Pusey  were  members  of  Oriel.  —  In  the  same 
street,  a  little  farther  on,  is  St.  Mary  Hall  (PI.  38;  C,  3),  estab- 
lished in  1333  ;  it  is  known  in  the  undergraduate  world  as  'Skim- 
mery'.  Opposite,  on  the  N.  side  of  High  St.,  is  St.  Mary's  (PI.  C,  3), 
the  University  Church  (sacristan.  Swan  Court,  High  St.).  The  hand- 
some spire  dates  from  1300,  the  choir  from  1460,  the  nave  from 
1488,  and  the  S.  porch  with  its  curious  twisted  pillars  (p.  Ivii), 
added  by  Dr.  Owen,  chaplain  of  Abp.  Laud,  from  1637.  A  slab 
in  the  chancel  pavement  records  that  Amy  Robsart  was  buried  in 
the  choir  in  1560.  The  University  Sermons,  preached  here  on  Sun. 
forenoon  and  afternoon,  are  preceded  by  the  special  'Bidding 
Prayer'  for  the  University.  —  At  the  back  (to  the  N.)  rises  the  — 

*Radcliffe  Library  (PI.  36;  C,  3),  founded  in  1737  by  Dr.  Rad- 
cliffe, court-physician  to  William  III.  and  Mary  II.  The  building 
is  a  handsome  rotunda,  embellished  with  columns,  and  surmounted 
by  a  dome  resting  on  an  octagonal  base;  Mr.  Freeman  considers  it 
'the  grandest  of  all  English-Italian  designs'.  The  books  have  been 


232    Route  33.  OXFORD.  Bodleian  Library. 

removed  to  the  University  Museum,  and  the  building  is  now  used 
as  part  of  the  Bodleian  (10  a.m.  to  10  p.m.;  adm.  3d.).  In  clear 
weather  an  admirable  *View  of  Oxford  and  the  country  round  is 
obtained  from  the  foot  of  the  dome.  —  Opposite  the  W.  gate  of  the 
Radcliffe  Library  rises  the  old  gate-tower  of  — 

Brasenose  College  (PI.  13;  C,  3),  or  the  King's  Hall,  founded 
in  1509.  The  site  of  this  college  was  originally  occupied  by  a  much 
older  institution,  called  Brasenose  Hall,  the  name  of  which  seems 
to  have  been  due  to  an  ancient  knocker  or  door-handle  in  the  form 
of  a  nose  of  brass.  This  knocker,  which  is  assigned  by  antiquarians 
to  the  early  part  of  the  12th  cent. ,  long  hung  in  a  hall  at  Stam- 
ford, to  which  a  body  of  Oxford  students  had  migrated  in  1334, 
but  was  brought  back  to  Oxford  in  1890.  It  seems  probable  that  it 
had  originally  belonged  to  the  Oxford  Hall  and  had  been  carried 
to  Stamford  as  a  visible  sign  of  unity.  In  its  official  documents 
the  college  is  styled  'Collegium  Aenei  Nasi'. 

The  gate  and  the  Hall  have  preserved  th'ir  original  character  unaltered. 
The  latter  contains  the  'brazen  nose'  and  some  interesting  portraits  and 
busts.  A  new  quadrangle,  including  the  PrincipaVe  House,  waa  added  in 
1888;  it  is  entered  by  a  gateway  in  the  'High'  adjoining  St.  Mary's  (p.  230). 
The  Library  and  the  Chapel,  completed  in  1663  and  1666,  show  an  unpleaaing 
medley  of  Gothic  and  classic  forms.  The  books  of  Brasenose  contain  the 
names  of  Foxe  ( 'Book  of  Martyrsj ,  Burton  ('Anatomy  of  Melancholy), 
Ashmole  (p.  233),  Bishop  Heber,  Rev,  F,  W.  Robertson,  Dean  Milman, 
and  the  Rev.  H.  Barham  ('Ingoldsby  Legends').  Brasenose  is  a  famous 
boating  and  athletic  college,  and  its  boat  is  often  'head  of  the  river'. 

The  large  quadrangular  block  of  buildings  to  the  N.  of  the 
Radcliffe  Library  contains  the  Old  Examination  Schools  (comp. 
p.  236),  begun  in  1439  and  completed  in  1613-18.  The  principal 
entrance  is  by  a  Gothic  gateway  on  the  E.  side.  The  side  of  the 
tower  facing  the  court  is  adorned  with  columns  of  all  the  five  Roman 
architectural  orders,  and  with  a  statue  of  James  I.,  supported  by 
figures  of  Religion  and  Fame.  The  tower  is  crowned  with  an  open 
parapet  and  pinnacles.  —  Since  the  erection  of  the  New  Schools 
(p.  236),  however,  the  whole  of  this  quadrangle  has  been  absorbed 
by  the  *Bodleian  Library  (PI.  2,  C  3  ;  open  9  to  3,  4,  or  5,  accord- 
ing to  the  season;  adm.  for  a  visitor  3d.,  unless  accompanied  by  a 
member  of  the  university  in  academic  dress),  which  was  originally 
established  in  1445,  opened  as  a  library  in  1488,  and  practically 
refounded  and  rebuilt  by  Sir  Thomas  Bodley  in  1597-1602.  The 
entrance  is  in  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  quadrangle. 

The  library  contains  about  500,000  printed  volumes,  30,000  vols,  of 
MSS.,  drawings,  and  50,000  coins.  It  also  possesses  a  collection  of  models 
of  ancient  temples  and  other  buildings  and  a  Gallery  of  Portraits.  In 
the  part  of  the  reading-room  open  to  visitors  are  glass  cases  containing 
autographs  of  celebrated  persons,  antiquities,  curiosities  of  writing,  re- 
markable early  printed  books,  MSS.  distinguished  for  their  age  or  their 
illumination,  and  beautiful  or  singular  bindings.  In  the  portrait  gallery 
are  Sir  Thomas  Bodley's  chest  and  various  historical  relics. 

We  quit  the  Schools  by  the  Proscholium  or  Pig  Market,  'a  rare 
example  of  an  original  ambulatory',  the  latter  name  commemorating 


Ashmolean  Museum.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.   233 

the  unworthy  use  to  which  the  adjoining  building  was  put  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.,  and  find  ourselves  opposite  the  — 

♦Divinity  School  (PI.  31 ;  C,  3j,  built  in  1445-80  on  a  scale  of 
great  magnificence  (see  p.  Ivi).  The  groined  ceiling  is  remarkable  for 
its  beautiful  tracery  and  pendants.  In  this  hall  the  trial  of  Cranmer, 
Latimer,  and  Ridley  was  held  in  1555.  During  the  Civil  Wars  and 
the  Commonwealth  it  was,  like  the  other  Schools,  used  as  a  store- 
house for  corn,  but  at  the  end  of  the  17th  cent,  it  was  restored 
by  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  —  To  the  W.  is  the  Convocation  House, 
used  for  the  conferring  of  degrees,  the  election  of  professors,  meetings 
of  Convocation,  and  other  university  purposes. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Schools  rises  the  Sheldonian  Theatre  (PI.  40, 
C  3;  porter  generally  at  hand,  3d.),  built  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren 
in  1664-69  at  the  expense  of  Archbishop  Sheldon.  This  handsome 
edifice,  which  can  accommodate  upwards  of  3000  persons,  is  used 
for  the  Encaenia,  or  annual  commemoration  of  founders,  when  prize- 
poems  and  essays  are  recited  and  honorary  degrees  conferred.  On 
this  occasion  the  undergraduates  occupy  the  upper  gallery  and  ex- 
press their  opinions  frankly  as  to  the  different  recipients  of  degrees. 

The  ceiling  is  adorned  with  paintings  by  Streater,  court-painter  to 
Charles  II.,  repre3enting  the  triumph  of  Religion,  the  Arts,  and  the 
Sciences  over  Envy,  Rapine,  and  Ignorance.  Among  the  portraits  are 
those  of  George  IV.,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  Alexander  I.  of  Russia,  and 
Frederick  William  IV.  of  Prussia,  the  last  two  by  Gerard.  The  view 
from  the  cupola,  which  was  added  in  1838,  resembles  that  from  the  dome 
of  the  Radcliffe  Library  (p.  232). 

The  Theatre  abuts  on  Broad  St.  and  is  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the 
Ashmolean  Museum  (PI.  1;  adm.  11-4,  3d.  unless  accompanied  by 
a  member  of  the  University),  established  by  Elias  Ashmole  in  1682. 

The  original  collection,  formed  by  a  Dutchman  named  Tradescant,  is 
partly  in  the  University  Museum,  while  the  books  have  been  placed  in 
the  Bodleian  Library.  The  collection  of  antiquities  formed  by  Ashmole 
himself  is,  however,  still  kept  in  this  building;  among  these  are  'King 
Alfreds  JewelF,  watches  which  belonged  to  Queen  Elizabeth  and  Oliver 
Cromwell,  and  other  interesting  historical  relics.  In  the  sunk  floor  are 
some  of  the  Arundel  Marbles,  a  collection  of  ancient  sculptural  fragments 
and  inscriptions,  formed  by  an  Earl  of  Arundel  in  the  17th  century. 
|Mnst  of  the  inscriptions  are  in  a  room  on  the  groundtloor  of  the  Old 
Schools,   and   the  rest  of  the  sculptures  are  in  the  University  Galleries.] 

Also  in  Broad  St. ,  to  the  E.  of  the  Theatre  ,  is  the  Clarendon 
Building  (PI.  10;  C,  3),  built  in  1713,  in  part  with  the  profits  of 
the  sale  of  Lord  Clarendon's  History  of  the  Rebellion,  the  copyright 
of  which  was  presented  to  the  University  by  his  son.  The  Clarendon 
was  long  occupied  by  the  University  printing-press,  but  now 
contains  offices  of  the  governing  body  of  the  University. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Clarendon  buildings,  at  the  end  of  Broad  St.  and 
Holywell  St.,  is  the  Indian  Institute,  a  building  in  an  Oriental  style, 
completed  in  18%.  intended  for  students  qualifying  for  the  Indian  Civil 
Service.  Its  museum  is  open  10-4  in  winter  and  10-6  in  summer.  —  In 
Holywell  St.  a  little  to  the  E.  of  the  Indian  Institute,  is  a  Music  Room. 

From  the  end  of  Broad  St.,  Park  St.  leads  N.  to  Wadham  Col- 
lege (PI.  29,  C  3;  on  the  right),  founded  in  1613. 


234   Route  33.  OXFORD.  New  College. 

The  Oate-Tower  and  the  timber-ceiling  of  tht -Hall  deserve  inspection, 
and  the  Chapel  (see  p.  Ivii),  with  some  stained  glass  of  1622,  is  also  fine. 
The  "Gardens  are  among  the  prettiest  in  Oxford.  Among  the  alumni  of 
Wadham  are  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  Lord  Chancellor  Westbury,  and  Ad- 
miral Blake.  The  Royal  Society  (see  Baedeker's  London)  grew  out  of  meet- 
ings for  scientific  discussion  held  here  in  the  time  of  the  Commonwealth 
(ca.  1648).  Most  of  the  leaders  of  the  English  Positivists  (Congreve,  Fred- 
eric Harrison,  Beesly)  came  from  Wadham. 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  Wadham  is  Mansfield  College  (PI.  D,  2;  build- 
ings finished  in  1889) ,  a  theological  college  in  connection  with  the 
Congregationalist  body,  and  intended  to  serve  as  a  centre  for  the  more 
orthodox  Nonconformists  in  Oxford.  —  Adjacent  are  the  handsome  build- 
ings (opened  in  1893)  of  Manchester  College,  a  similar  institution  connected 
with  the  Unitarians,  transferred  from  London  to  Oxford. 

Farther  to  the  N.,  at  the  "beginning  of  the  Parks,  is  the  *Uiii- 
versity Museum  (PI.  43;  C,  D,  2),  a  modern  Gothic  building(1857- 
60),  containing  valuable  geological,  chemical,  anatomical,  zoolog- 
ical,  and  other  collections  (open  daily,  2-4).  Awing,  added  in 
1887,  contains  the  anthropological  collections  of  Gen.  Pitt-Rivers. 
The  chemical  laboratory  is  well  equipped. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Museum  is  Keble  College  (PI.  18;  C,  1,2), 
built  in  1868-70  as  a  memorial  of  the  Rev.  John  Keble,  author  of 
the  'Christian  Year',  and  intended  to  afford  the  opportunity  of  a  uni- 
versity career  to  those  whose  means  do  not  permit  them  to  study  at 
the  older  and  more  expensive  colleges.  The  buildings  are  of  varie- 
gated brick,  and  the  Chapel,  entered  from  the  arcbway  at  its  W.  end 
(open  10-12  and  2-4,  in  summer  till  5.30),  is  gorgeously  adorned 
with  mosaics.  Keble  resembles  the  Halls  in  having  no  Fellows. 
The  Library  (2-4)  contains  Holman  Hunt's  'Light  of  the  World' 
and  interesting  relics  of  Keble ;  in  the  Hall  are  portraits  of  Keble 
(by  Richmond),  Liddon,  Laud,  etc. 

In  front  of  Keble  is  the  University  Park  (PL  D,  1,  2),  one  of 
the  most  charming  recreation-grounds  in  England.  The  scene  during 
an  important  cricket-match  is  very  bright  and  varied.  The  Univer- 
sity Observatory  stands  in  the  Park. 

From  Keble  we  now  return,  passing  Wadham  College,  to  the 
end  of  Broad  St.,  and  follow  Catherine  St.,  which  leads  hence  in  a 
straight  direction  towards  the  S.  To  the  left  stands  Hertford  Col- 
lege (PI.  32;  C,  3),  founded  in  1740  on  the  site  oi  Hart  or  Hert- 
ford Hall,  which  dated  from  about  1282.  About  1816  the  college 
collapsed,  and  from  1822  to  1874  the  buildings  were  occupied 
by  Magdalen  Hall.  In  the  latter  year  the  defunct  Hertford  College 
was  resuscitated  through  the  munificence  of  Mr.  T.  C.  Baring, 
M.  P.  Among  the  members  of  Hart  Hall,  Magdalen  Hall,  and 
Hertford  College  were  Selden  ,  Thomas  Hobbes ,  Lord  Chancellor 
Clarendon,  Waller,  Sir  Matthew  Hale,  Dean  Swift,  and  C.  J.  Fox. 
—  New  College  St.  leads  hence  to  — 

*New  College  (PL  22;  D,  3),  which  in  spite  of  its  name  is  one  of 
the  oldest  and  most  interesting  buildings  in  Oxford.  It  was  founded 
by  William  of  Wykeham,  Bishop  of  Winchester  (p.  76),  in  1379,  and 


Magdalen.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     235 

a  great  part  of  the  building  still  retains  its  original  appearance.  The 
upper  story  of  the  principal  quadrangle  dates,  however,  from  1678, 
the  garden-wing  was  added  in  1684,  and  new  buildings  were  added 
in  1880  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott. 

The  '^Chapel,  which  is,  perhaps,  the  earliest  building  in  England 
erected  from  the  foundations  entirely  in  the  Perp.  style,  contains  the 
silver-gilt  crozier  of  the  founder.  The  stained-glass  windows  in  the  ante- 
chapel  and  the  upper  lights  of  the  other  windows  are  old  (14th  cent.),  the 
lower  lights  in  the  chapel  itself  are  partly  by  Flemish  (S.  side)  and  partly 
by  English  (N.  side)  masters.  The  large  W.  window  was  executed  in  1777 
from  designs  by  Reynolds.  The  fine  altar-screen  was  restored  in  1789. 
The  organ  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  England.  [Divine  service  is 
held  daily  at  8  a.m.  (7.30  a.m.  in  summer)  and  5  p.m.-,  adm.  11-1  and 
2-4  free,  at  other  times  is.]  The  smaller  quadrangle,  adjoining  the  chapel, 
with  its  "Cloisters  and  Tower,  was  not  built  till  the  rest  of  the  college  was 
completed.  A  manifold  echo  may  be  awakened  here.  The  tower,  the 
last  work  of  William  of  Wykeham,  seems  to  have  been  meant  partly  as 
a  fortification.  The  beautiful  ''Gardens,  'a  sweet,  quiet,  sacred,  stately 
seclusion'  (Hawthorne),  afl'ord  a  good  view  of  the  bastions  of  the  old  city- 
wall.  A  gate  in  the  city-wall  leads  to  the  'Slype'  (good  view  of  the  out- 
side of  the  wall)  and  to  the  range  of  new  buildings  facing  Holywell,  where 
a  stately  tower  is  being  erected.  Sydney  Smith,  Augustus  Hare,  and  numer- 
ous bishops  and  archbishops  were  students  of  New  College. 

On  quitting  New  College  we  turn  to  the  left,  pass  beneath  an 
archway,  and  reach  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Peter  in  the  East 
(PI.  9;  D,  3),  with  a  Norman  *Crypt  and  Choir  of  the  middle  of  the 
l'2th  century.  The  S.  wall  of  the  nave  and  its  fine  doorway  date 
from  the  same  period;  the  pillars  and  arches  are  of  the  13th  cent., 
the  N.  windows  of  the  14th  cent.,  the  W.  and  S.  windows  and  the 
porch  of  the  15th  century.  —  A  few  paces  to  the  S.  is  — 

St.  Edmund  Hall  (PI.  D ,  3,  4) ,  a  small  institution  founded 
in  1226  and  rebuilt  in  1559.  Its  quadrangle  contains  a  remarkably 
fine  wistaria.  Bishop  Wilson,  the  Metropolitan  of  India,  was  a 
student  here.  —  We  now  regain  the  High  Street,  where  we  turn 
to  the  left  (E.)  and  soon  reach,  at  the  end  of  the  street  — 

*St.  Mary  Magdalen  College  (PI.  20,  D  4;  pronounced  Afaud- 
Un),  founded  by  Bishop  Waynflete  in  1458,  but  not  built  till 
1474-81.  This  college  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  in  Oxford. 

We  enter  the  quadrangle  by  a  new  gateway  erected  in  1885.  In  the 
corner  to  the  right,  on  a  level  with  the  first-floor  windows,  is  an  old  stone 
pulpit,  from  which  a  University  sermon  used  to  be  preached  on  the  festi- 
val of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  To  the  left  are  part  of  old  Magdalen  Hall 
and  the  recently-built  '■St.  Swithin's  Quad'  (Bodley  <t  Garner) ;  immediately 
opposite  is  the  FresidenVs  House.  In  a  small  court  to  the  right  is  the  so- 
called  '■Founder's  Tower\  a  graceful  ivy-clad  structure.  The  chambers  oc- 
cupied by  the  founder  were  carefully  rest(jred  in  1857  and  contain  some 
valuable  old  tapestry,  representing  the  marriage  of  Prince  Arthur,  elder 
brother  of  Henry  VIII.,  with  Catherine  of  Aragon.  The  Chapel  (service 
daily  at  10  a.m.  and  6  p.  m.,  adm.  to  choir  by  ticket  from  a  Fellow:  adm. 
to  the  ante-chapel,  11-12.30,  free)  was  successfully  restored  in  1833  and 
contains  an  elaborate  reredos  with  numerous  statues.  The  First  Quadrangle 
is  surrounded  with  cloisters,  one  side  of  which  is  modern.  In  the  S.  E. 
corner  is  a  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  Hall,  a  fine  room  with  carved 
oak  panelling  of  1541.  A  small  passage  connects  the  cloister  with  the 
Chaplain's  Quadrangle,  a  small  court  affording  a  good  view  of  "Magdalen 
Tower.     The  latter,  erected  in  the  Perp.  style  in  1492-1505,  is  one   of  the 


236     Route  33.  OXFORD.  Queens. 

chief  architectural  glories  of  the  city;  it  is  said  to  have  been  built  under 
the  superintendence  of  Wolsey,  when  Bursar  of  the  College.  The  choir 
sings  a  Latin  hymn  on  the  top  of  this  tower  at  5  a.m.  on  May  Day,  a 
custom  supposed  (but  without  sufficient  reason)  to  have  originated  as  an 
annual  requiem  for  Henry  VII.  (d.  1509).  The  Library  contains  some 
valuable  MSS.  (including  Wolsey's  copy  of  the  Gospels)  and  early  printed 
books.  The  tasteless  Fellows''  Buildings  harmonize  very  badly  with  the 
older  parts  of  the  college.  —  The  college  ^Grounds  should  also  be  visited; 
Addison^s  Walk  is  said  to  have  been  a  favourite  resort  of  the  essayist  when 
an  undergraduate,  and  the  Water  Walks  along  the  Cherwell,  of  which  it 
forms  a  part,,  are  very  beautiful  (reached  by  turning  to  the  right  in  the 
inner  quadrangle).  Behind  the  inner  quadrangle  is  a  paddock  containing 
deer.  —  The  names  of  Wolsey,  Hampden,  Addison,  Professor  John  Wilson, 
Charles  Reade,  Collins,  Roundell  Palmer  (Lord  Selborne),  Prof.  Ferrier, 
Goldwin  Smith,  and  Gibbon  are  among  the  most  eminent  on  the  books 
of  Magdalen.  The  Fellows  of  Magdalen  in  1688  earned  a  memorable  place 
in  history  by  their  courageous  resistance  to  James  II. 's  unconstitutional 
interference  in  the  election  of  the  president  of  the  college. 

On  leaving  Magdalen  we  see  almost  opposite  us  the  gate 
(built  in  1632)  of  the  Botanic  Garden.  To  the  left  is  Magdalen 
Bridge ,  the  regular  approach  to  Oxford  from  the  E.  A  little 
to  the  right  we  enjoy  a  capital  view  of  the  whole  length  of  the 
High  Street  or  'The  High',  the  principal  street  of  the  city,  flanked 
on  both  sides  with  a  long  array  of  picturesque  and  interesting 
buildings.  Wordsworth  has  devoted  a  sonnet  to  the  'stream-like 
windings  of  that  glorious  street',  Hawthorne  calls  it  'the  noblest 
old  street  in  England',  and  Sir  Walter  Scott  admits  that  it  rivals 
the  High  St.  of  Edinburgh.  We  now  follow  it  towards  the  W., 
passing  the  back  of  St.  Edmund's  Hall ,  nearly  opposite  which,  to 
the  left,  are  the  New  Examination  Schools  (PI.  D,  4),  a  hand- 
some building  by  Jackson  (1882),  with  a  fine  entrance-hall.  Visit- 
ors (3d.  each,  if  unaccompanied  by  a  member  of  the  University) 
may  enter  any  of  the  Viva  Voce  rooms  and  witness  the  examina- 
tion.    Next  door  are  the  Buildings  of  the  Non- Collegiate  Students. 

A  little  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  Queen's  College  (PI.  25; 
D,  3),  founded  in  1340  by  Robert  de  Eglesfleld,  confessor  of  Phil- 
ippa,  consort  of  Edward  III.,  and  named  by  him  in  honour  of  his 
royal  mistress.  No  part  of  the  original  building  now  remains  ;  the 
present  college  dates  from  1692,  and  its  chapel  from  1714. 

The  Hall,  a  well-proportioned  room  designed  by  Wren,  is  adorned 
with  portraits  of  the  founder  and  various  benefactors  of  the  college.  The 
butterv  contains  an  old  drinking-horn,  presented  by  Queen  Philippa.  The 
Library,  which  inherited  a  bequest  of  30,000i.  in  1841,  is  the  largest  col- 
legiate library  in  Oxford.  Queen's  was  the  college  of  the  Black  Prince, 
Henry  V.,  Cardinal  Beaufort,  Addison,  Wycherley,  Jeremy  Bentham, 
William  Collins,  and  Francis  Jeflrey. 

Opposite  is  University  College  (PI.  28;  C,  3),  which  claims  to 
have  been  founded  by  King  Alfred,  but  has  no  substantial  proof  of 
an  earlier  origin  than  1249,  when  William,  Archdeacon  of  Durham, 
left  a  sum  of  money  for  the  support  of  a  number  of  masters,  who, 
however,  were  not  incorporated  till  1280.  University  College  is  thus 
younger  than  Merton  (p.  230)  as  an  incorporated  college,  though  it 
represents  the  earliest  scholastic  enilowment  in  Oxford. 


All  Souls.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.    237 

The  present  buildings  date  from  1634-74  and  1850.  The  imposing 
Gothic  front,  with  two  tower-gateways,  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
ornaments  of  the  High  Street.  On  the  W.  gateway  are  statues  of  Queen 
Anne  (outside)  and  James  II.  (inside),  on  the  E.  gateway  are  Queen  Mary 
and  Dr.  Radclifl'e.  Shelley  was  an  undergraduate  at  University  College, 
where  a  memorial  was  erected  to  him  in  1893.  The  names  of  Lord  Chan- 
cellor Eldon,  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury,  the  hymn-writer  Faber,  Robert 
Lowe  (Lord  Sherbrooke),  and  Dr.  Radcliffe  are  also  on  the  books. 

*A11  Souls  College  fPl.  U  ;  C,  3),  on  the  N.  side  of  High  St., 
was  founded  in  1437  by  Archbishop  Chichele,  to  provide  masses 
for  the  souls  of  those  who  died  in  the  Hundred  Years'  War  with 
France.    The  second  quadrangle  was  added  in  1720. 

The  Gateway,  with  its  fine  vaulted  roof,  and  the  First  Quadrangle  are 
in  the  state  in  which  they  were  left  by  the  founder.  The  entrance  to  the 
Chapel  (open  12-1  and  2-4),  under  the  E.  turret,  has  some  exquisite  fan 
tracery  in  the  roof;  inside  is  a  very  handsome  reredos.  The  iVew  Quad- 
rangle, on  the  N.  side  of  which  is  the  Library,  makes  a  somewhat  im- 
posing impression  in  spite  of  its  questionable  taste;  it  commands  a  good 
view  of  the  Radcliffe  (p.  231).  The  library,  which  numbers  70,(XX)  vols, 
and  ranks  next  to  the  Bodleian  in  importance,  contains  Wren's  original 
designs  for  St.  PauFs.  All  Souls  ia  singular  in  having  practically  no 
undergraduates,  though  it  has  50  fellowships,  mostly  held  by  lawyers. 
Dr.  Linacre,  Jeremy  Taylor,  Herrick,  Biahop  Heber,  Lord  Salisbury,  and 
Blackstone  were  members  of  All  Souls.  A  curious  song,  apparently  of 
Jacobean  date,  is  still  annually  sung  at  the  'gaude'  of  All  Souls,  commem- 
orating 'a  swapping,  swapping  Mallard',  tradiiionally  connected  with  the 
foundation  of  the  college. 

All  Souls  is  adjoined  by  the  church  of  St.  Mary  (  p.  231 ),  heyond 
which  is  All  Saints'  Church,  built  in  1705-8.  At  this  point  Turl 
Street,  so  named  from  an  old  entrance  to  the  town  at  the  N.  end 
(A.  S.  thyrl,  a  hole),  diverges  to  the  right.  In  it,  on  the  right,  is  — 

Lincoln  College  {F\.  19;  C,  3),  founded  by  a  Bishop  of  Lincoln 
in  1429.  The  chapel,  dating  from  1631,  contains  some  good  stained 
glass  brought  from  Italy  at  that  period.  The  hall  has  a  fine  open 
roof  of  chestnut  timber.  In  the  quadrangle  to  the  right  are  two 
luxuriant  vines.  John  Wesley  and  Dr.  Radcliffe  (p.  231)  were  fellows 
of  Lincoln,  Mark  Pattison  was  Rector,  and  Robert  Montgomery,  the 
poet,  was  an  undergraduate. 

In  the  same  street,  separated  from  Lincoln  College  by  a  lane,  is 
Exeter  College  (PI.  16;  C,  3),  founded  by  Walter  of  Stapleton, 
Bishop  of  Exeter,  in  1314.  All  the  buildings  have  been  repeatedly 
restored,  and  several  of  them  were  erected  in  the  present  century. 

The  ^Chapel  is  a  verv  successful  modern  revival  of  15th  cent.  Gothic 
(adm.  10-12  and  2-4,  free).  The  Hall,  built  in  1618  and  restored  in  1818, 
is  also  noteworthy.  The  Fellows'  Garden,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted 
after  1  p.m.,  atl'ords  a  good  view  of  the  Bodleian  Library  and  the  Divinity 
School.  The  large  chestnut  at  the  foot  of  the  garden  is  known  as  'Heber's 
Tree',  because  it  overhung  Heber'a  rooms  in  Brasenose  (see  p.  2321.  Among 
the  famous  alumni  of  Exeter  are  the  first  Earl  of  Shaftesbury,  Lyell, 
Dyce  (the  Shakespearian  commentator),  Sir  John  Gardner  Wilkinson  (the 
Egyptologist),  F.  D.  Maurice,  and  J.  A.  Fronde. 

Opposite  Exeter  College  stands  Jesus  College  (PI.  17;  C,  3), 
founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth  and  Dr.  Hugh  Price  iu  1571,  rebuilt 
in  1621-67,  and  restored  in  1856. 


238     Route  33.  OXFORD.  Balliol. 

The  Chapel  dates  from  1621,  and  contains  some  oaken  wainscoting  of 
that  period.  The  Hall  contains  a  fine  Jacobean  screen  and  some  portraits, 
including  one  of  Charles  I.,  ascribed  to  Van  Dyck,  and  there  is  a  fine 
portrait  of  Queen  Elizabeth  by  Zucchero  in  one  of  the  common-rooms. 
The  valuable  Welsh  MSS.  belonging  to  Jesus  College  have  been  deposited 
in  the  Bodleian  (p.  232).  In  the  Bursary  is  a  huge  silver  punch  bowl, 
holding  ten  gallons.  This  college  was  originally  intended  for  Welsh 
students  only,  and  divine  service  is  still  held  in  the  chapel  in  Welsh  twice 
a  week.  It  has  been  prolific  of  Welsh  bishops  and  numbers  Beau  Nash 
and  J.  R.  Green  among  its  alumni. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  N.  end  of  Turl  Street  and  cross  Broad 
Street.  Here,  facing  us,  is  the  gateway  leading  to  Trinity  College 
(PL  27;  C,  2),  established  in  1554  on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine 
college  suppressed  by  Henry  VIII.  The  Chapel,  built  in  1694  in 
the  classical  style,  contains  a  beautiful  carved  screen  and  altar- 
piece  by  Grinling  Gibbons.  The  new  buildings  (1887)  are  by  Jack- 
son. In  the  Garden  is  a  celebrated  avenue  of  limes.  Chillingworth, 
Selden,  Landor,  the  elder  Pitt,  Lord  Selborne,  Cardinal  Newman, 
James  Bryce,  Sir  Richard  Burton,  and  E.  A.  Freeman  are  among 
the  members  of  Trinity.  —  In  Broad  St.,  to  the  "W. ,  lies  — 

Balliol  College  (PI.  12;  C,  3),  founded  by  John  Balliol,  whose 
son  was  for  a  short  time  King  of  Scotland,  and  Dervorguilla,  his 
•wife.  Balliol  made  certain  payments  for  the  support  of  poor  students 
at  Oxford  soon  after  1260,  but  the  college  was  not  incorporated  till 
after  Merton  (p.  230),  and  the  charter  of  the  Lady  Dervorguilla  dates 
from  1282.  None  of  the  present  buildings  are  older  than  the  15th 
cent.,  andthe  S.  front,  with  its  massive  tower,  was  rebuilt  about  1870. 

The  Gothic  Chapel^  built  by  Butterfield  in  1858,  supplants  one  of  the 
most  perfect  architectural  groups  in  Oxford,  consisting  of  the  old  chapel 
and  library.  The  Hall,  by  Waterhouse  (1876),  contains  portraits  of  Wy- 
clifi'e,  Jowett,  Archbp.  Taif,  and  Robert  Browning  (honorary  fellow). 
Balliol  is  one  of  the  largest  colleges  in  Oxford,  and  its  standard  of  scholar- 
ship is  very  high.  It  is  much  frequented  by  Scottish  students.  The  li- 
brary contains  some  ancient  Bibles  and  valuable  MSS.  Wyclifi"e  was  for  a 
time  Master  of  Balliol,  an  office  held  until  1893  by  Mr.  Jowett.  Besides 
several  Archbishops  of  Canterbury,  the  books  of  the  college  contain  the 
names  of  Adam  Smith  ,  John  Evelyn ,  Sir  William  Hamilton  (the  meta- 
physician), Southey,  Lockhart,  Cardinal  Manning,  Dean  Stanley,  Matthew 
Arnold,   A.  H.  Clough,  and  Swinburne. 

To  the  W.  of  Balliol  rises  the  church  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen 
(PI.  7;  C,  2,  3),  founded  in  1320.  The  tower  dates  from  1511-31, 
but  the  rest  of  the  building  has  been  so  frequently  altered  and 
restored  that  almost  nothing  remains  of  the  original  structure.  To 
the  N.  of  the  church  stands  the  Martyrs'  Memorial  (PI.  33 ;  C,  2), 
designed  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  and  erected  in  1841  to  the  memory 
of  Cranmer,  Latimer,  and  Ridley,  who  were  burned  in  front  of 
Balliol  College  in  1555  and  1556.  The  monument  is  in  the  richest 
Gothic  style,  and  is  adorned  with  statues  of  the  three  martyrs,  by 
Weekes.  —  To  the  N.  W.  of  the  Memorial,  at  the  corner  of  St.  Giles 
Street  and  Beaumont  Street,  is  the  Taylor  Institution  (PL  39; 
B,  2),  built  in  1845  for  the  teaching  of  modern  languages,  and  also 
accommodating  the  University  Galleries  (PL  42 ;  B,  2). 


8t.  John's.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     239 

The  galleriea  contain  a  collection  of  paintings  and  sculptures,  casts 
from  the  antique,  the  original  models  of  Chantrey'a  busts  and  statues, 
some  fine  water-colours  by  Turner,  and  a  very  valuable  series  of  drawings, 
including  157  by  Raphael  and  53  by  Michael  Angelo  (open  daily,  12-4,  ex- 
cept for  a  few  weeks  in  the  Long  Vacation;  adm.  to  visitors,  unaccom- 
panied by  a  member  of  the  University  in  academic  gown,  2d:).  On  the 
groundfloor  of  the  S.W.  wing  is  the  Ruskin  Drawing  School  fopen,  Mon. 
(fe  Thurs.  2-4,  Wed.  and  Sat.  12-4). 

Nearly  opposite,  in  St.  Giles  St.,  is  St.  John's  College  (PI.  26; 
C,  2"),  founded  in  1555. 

The  old  quadrangle  belonged  to  the  College  of  St.  Bernard,  founded 
by  Archbishop  Chichele  about  1440;  the  Hall  is  of  the  same  period,  but 
has  been  restored.  The  Chajiel,  consecrated  in  1530,  was  restored  in  1843. 
From  the  first  quadrangle  a  vaulted  passage  with  delicate  fan-tracery  leads 
to  the  second  quadrangle,  built  mainly  by  Archbishop  Laud  (1631),  Pre- 
sident of  St.  John's,  who  is  buried  in  the  chapel.  The  S.  and  E.  sides 
are  occupied  by  the  library.  The  oriel  windows  on  the  garden-side  are 
very  picturesque.  The  "Gardens  of  St.  John's,  with  their  beautiful  lawns, 
are  among  the  finest  in  Oxford.  The  Library  contains  several  relics  ot 
Abp.  Laud,  including  the  skull-cap  in  which  he  was  executed;  also  some 
fine  MSS.  and  early  printed  works.  Among  eminent  members  of  St.  John's 
are  Abp.  Juxon,  Dean  Mansel,  and  the  poet  Shirley. 

In  this  street  also  is  Pusey  House,  an  Anglican  clergy-house, 
founded  in  1884  in  honour  of  Dr.  Pusey,  whose  library  it  contains. 
Beyond  St.  John's  the  road  forks,  the  right  branch,  Banbury  Road, 
leading  past  St.  Oileis  Church  (PI.  6;  C,  1),  built  about  the  year 
1200,  to  Norham  Gardens  (right;  Lady  Margaret  Hall,  see  p.  240) 
and  Wycli/fe  Hall,  an  Anglican  theological  seminary,  built  in  1877. 
The  left  branch,  Woodstock  Road,  leads  to  the  Rom.  Cath.  Church 
of  St.Aloysius,  SomervilleHall  (p.240),  s.nd  the  Radcliffe  Infirmary 
(PI.  35;  C,  1)  a.r\({  Radcliffe  Observatory,  both  built  at  the  end  of  last 
century  with  funds  bequeathed  by  Dr.  Radcliffe  (comp.  p.  231). 

Beyond  the  observatory  we  turn  to  the  W.  into  Observatory 
Street,  from  which  "Walton  Street  diverges  to  the  left.  In  the  latter 
stands  the  University  Press  (PI.  44;  B,  1),  built  in  1830.  Farther 
on  in  the  same  street,  opposite  the  end  of  Beaumont  St.,  is  Wor- 
cester College  (PI.  30;  B,  2),  erected  in  1714  on  the  site  of  the 
Benedictine  foundation  of  Gloucester  College  (1283;  afterwards 
Gloucester  Hall).  One  of  the  sides  of  the  quadrangle  is  still  adorned 
with  the  arms  of  different  Benedictine  monasteries. 

The  chapel  presents  one  of  the  richest  Renaissance  interiors  in  Eng- 
land, and  the  hall  contains  a  few  paintings.  The  Library  has  some  valu- 
able MSS.  The  shady  'Gardens,  which  contain  a  small  lake,  though  less 
trim  than  some  of  the  others,  are  very  beautiful.  Lovelace,  Pe  Quincey, 
Bonamy  Price,  and  F.  W.  >«'ewman  studied  at  Worcester. 

We  now  descend  Beaumont  Street,  and  at  the  church  of  St.  Mary 
Magdalen  turn  to  the  right  into  Cornmarket  Street.  Here,  to  the 
left,  stands  St.  Michael's  Church  (PI.  8;  C.  3),  with  a  tower 
probably  built  by  Robert  d'Oily  (11th  cent.),  as  part  of  the  town- 
wall  ;  the  rest  of  the  church  dates  from  various  later  periods.  —  To 
the  right,  a  little  way  back  from  the  street,  are  the  rooms  of  the 
Union  Society  (PI.  B,  3),  famous  as  a  debating-society  and  under- 
graduates' club,  founded  in  1823. 


240     Route  33.  OXFORD.  Ladies'  Colleges. 

Many  of  the  most  eminent  of  England's  parliamentary  speakers  owe 
part  of  their  success  to  their  training  in  the  debates  of  the  'Union'.  Meetings 
for  debate  are  held  every  Thurs.  evening  during  term.  The  premises 
include  reading,  writing,  smoking,  and  coffee  rooms,  a  library,  and  a  large 
hall  in  which  the  debates  are  held.  The  library  is  adorned  with  frescoes 
in  tempera  by  Rossetti ,  Morris,  and  others  (now  much  faded).  Visitors 
may  be  introduced  for  a  few  days  by  a  member. 

A  little  farther  on,  Cornmarket  Street  joins  High  Street  at 
Carfax  (PL  B,  3),  a  name  supposed  to  be  a  corruption  of  Quatre 
Faces  or  Quatre  Voies,  or,  more  probably,  of  Quadrifarcm.  The 
picturesque  old  conduit  that  formerly  stood  here  was  removed  to 
Nuneham  in  1787  (comp.  p.  219).  To  the  right  is  a  tower  of  the 
13th  cent.,  a  relic  of  St.  Martin's  Church  pulled  down  in  1896. 

Crossing  Carfax,  we  follow  St.  Aldate's  Street  (pron.  St.  Old's), 
which  forms  a  S.  prolongation  of  Cornmarket  Street.  On  the  left 
stand  the  handsome  new  Municipal  Buildings  (PI.  41;  B,  C,  3), 
opened  in  May ,  1897,  in  which  the  Public  Library  is  accommod- 
ated. On  the  right  are  the  Post  Office  and  the  Church  of  St.  Aldate 
(PI.  5;  B,  4).  a  Dec.  edifice  of  the  14th  century.  The  Aims-Houses 
to  the  S.  of  this  church  were  founded  by  Card.  Wolsey  and  endowed 
by  Henry  VIII.,  but  were  not  completed  till  1834.  —  To  the  W., 
behind  the  church,  lies  Pembroke  College  (PI.  24;  B,  4),  founded  in 
1624,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Broadgates  Hall,  with  a  fine  modern 
hall  and  a  newly  decorated  chapel.  The  library,  enlarged  in  1890, 
contains  a  unique  collection  of  Aristotelian  works.  Among  the  stu- 
dents of  Broadgates  and  Pembroke  have  been  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson 
(rooms  in  the  second  story,  above  the  gateway),  Camden,  Blackstone, 
Shenstone,  Whitfield,  Sir  Thomas  Browne,  Francis  Beaumont,  and 
the  patriotic  Pym.  The  college  possesses  Johnson's  china  tea-pot,  the 
desk  on  which  he  wrote  his  Dictionary,  and  a  fine  portrait  of  him 
by  Reynolds. 

From  Carfax  Queen  Street  leads  W.  to  the  remains  of  the 
old  Castle  (PI.  B,  3;  in  New  Road),  now  consisting  of  little  more 
than  a  Norman  tower  within  the  walls  of  the  County  Gaol.  The 
Empress  Matilda  was  besieged  in  this  castle  by  Stephen  in  1141,  but 
escaped  during  the  night  and  found  refuge  at  Wallingford  (p.  220). 

At  the  end  of  Queen  St.  is  New  Inn  Hall  St.,  leading  to  the 
N.  past  New  Inn  Hall  (PI.  B,  3),  closed  in  1887,  after  having  been 
a  place  of  education,  with  short  interruptions,  since  about  1350. 

Oxford  possesses  three  halls  for  ladies,  the  discipline  and  tuition 
of  which  are  assimilated  as  closely  as  possible  to  those  of  the  men's 
colleges.  Lady  Margaret  Hall  (founded  1879)  and  St.  Hugh's  Hall 
(1886)  are  situated  in  Norham  Gardens  (PI.  C,  D,  1);  Somerville 
College  (1879),  named  in  honour  of  Mrs.  Somerville,  the  mathe- 
matician, is  in  Woodstock  Road  (PI.  C,  1).  Besides  the  ladies  on 
the  books  of  these  institutions,  there  are  a  number  of  'unattached' 
students,  under  the  supervision  of  a  lady  entitled  Principal  of  the 
Home  Students. 


Excursions.  OXFORD.  33.  Route.     241 

The  scholarship  of  the  lady-students  is  tested  by  the  examination 
papers  of  the  University,  but  they  have  a  separate  class-list  and  are  not 
yet  allowed  to  take  a  degree.  A  large  number  of  university  and  college 
lectures  are  open  to  women,  and  there  are  also  special  lectures,  given  by 
members  of  the  university  and  also  by  lady  lecturers  an<i  tutors,  some  of 
whom  are  resident  in  the  halls  above  mentioned.  Each  of  the  halls  sends 
representatives  to  the  Council  of  the  Association  for  the  Education  of 
Women  in  Oxford  (Clarendon  Building,  Broad  St.),  from  the  secretary  of 
which  all  information  may  be  obtained. 

Excursions  from  Oxford. 

Perhaps  the  most  popular  is  that  to  Woodstock  and  Blenheim,  which 
may  be  reached  either  by  railway  (comp.  R.  34)  or  by  road  (carr.  and 
pair  there  and  back  20s.).  Choosing  the  second  and  pleasanter  of  these 
alternatives,  we  leave  Oxford  by  St.  Giles  Road  and  drive  to  the  N.W., 
via  Wolvercote  and  Begbrooke,  beyond  which  we  skirt  Blenheim  Park,  to 
(8  M.)  Woodstock  (Bear),  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  1630  inhab.  and 
manufactories  of  leather  gloves.  Woodstock  Manor  was  an  early  residence 
of  the  English  kings,  but  no  trace  now  remains  of  the  palace  built  by 
Henry  I.  Edward,  the  Black  Prince,  was  born  at  Woodstock  in  1330, 
and  here  Henry  II.  constructed  the  bower  in  which  he  concealed  'Fair 
Rosamond'.  The  Princess  Elizabeth  was  confined  in  the  gate-house  for 
some  time  by  her  sister  Queen  Mary.  Chaucer  was  at  one  time  a 
resident  in  Woodstock,  and  its  name  is  also  connected  with  literature 
by  means  of  the  romance  of  Walter  Scott.  A  little  way  beyond  the 
church  is  the  entrance  to  'Blenheim  Park,  with  the  magnificent  palace 
of  the  Duke  of  Marlborough.  Woodstock  Manor  was  presented  to  the 
lirst  Duke  of  Marlborough  in  recognition  of  his  numerous  victories,  and 
parliament  voted  him  a  sum  of  500,000i.  to  build  a  residence.  The  park 
is  about  12  M.  in  circumference  and  is  stocked  with  deer.  The  Palace 
was  built  by  Vanbrugh,  and  is  a  good  example  of  his  heavy  though 
imposing  style  ('Lie  heavy  on  him,  Earth,  for  he  Laid  many  a  heavy 
load  on  thee"),  with  a  Corinthian  portico  in  the  centre  and  two  projecting 
wings.  The  length  of  the  facade  is  nearly  4(X)  ft.  The  interior  is  richly 
adorned  with  tapestry  and  painted  ceilings  by  Thornhill.  The  best 
works  of  the  valuable  collection  of  paintings  have  been  sold,  but  there 
still  remain  interesting  examples  of  Reynolds,  Ouinsboroiigh,  Hudson,  and 
others.  The  Gardens  are  very  extensive  and  attractive,  and  contain  tem- 
ples,  cascades,  and  fountains  in  the  taste  of  the  period.  The  park  is 
always  open  to  pedestrians,  and  the  house  and  gardens  are  shown  in 
summer  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  from  12  to  2  (fee  for  each  la.).  Carriages 
must  be  accompanied  by  one  of  the  lodge-keepers  (fee  2*.  (id.). 

About  3V2-4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Oxford,  beyond  South  Hinksey,  rises  Boars 
Hill,  a  favourite  point  for  short  walks.  The  walk  may  be  continued  to 
Abingdon  (p.  217);  or  we  may  turn  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  Bagley  Wood, 
cross  the  Thames  at  Sandford  Mill,  and  return  to  Oxford  \>y  Littlemore 
(of  which  Newman  was  chaplain)  and  Iffley  (p.  219).  The  last-named  village, 
which  affords  a  good  view  of  Oxford ,  possesses  an  interesting  Norman 
church.     This  is  a  round  of  7-8  M. 

About  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  Oxford  lies  Stanton  Harcourt ,  the  ancient 
seat  of  the  Harcourt  family,  reached  by  a  pleasant  walk  passing  Cumnor 
and  (4  M.)  Bablockhyfhe,  where  we  cross  the  'stripling  Thames'  by  a  ferry. 
The  old  manor-house  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Edward  IV.  and  con- 
tains a  room  in  which  Pope  spent  two  summers.  The  curious  old  kitchen, 
which  still  remains,  has  been  described  as  'either  a  kitchen  within  a  chim- 
ney or  a  kitchen  without  one\  Pope,  who  wrote  the  5lh  book  of  his  'Iliad' 
here,  has  given  a  playful  and  picturesque  account  of  Stanton  Harcourt  in 
one  of  his  letters.  Near  the  village  are  three  large  stones  known  as  the 
DeviVs  Quoits.  —  Cumnor  Hall  (destroyed)  is  known  to  all  readers  of  Kenil- 
worth  and  friends  of  the  unfortunate  Amy  Robsart.  The  church  contains 
the  tomb  of  Anthonv  Forster,  with  a  hit;hlv  laudatorv  inscription  I 

Shotover  Hill  (600  ft.),  4  M.  to  the  E.,  ^commands  a  fine  view  of  Oxford 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  16 


242    Route  34.  BANBURY.  From  Oxford 

and  its  environs.  It  was  a  favourite  resort  of  the  undergraduate  Shelley. 
About  11/2  M.  farther  is  Cuddesden  (p.  218),  vrith  the  palace  of  the  Bishop 
of  Oxford  and  a  large  theological  college.     . 

A  pleasant  walk  of  9-10  M.  may  be  taken  along  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Chenoell  to  Islip  (p.  218),  Oddinglon,  and  Charlton-on-Otmoor.  The  church 
of  Charlton  has  a  fine  rood-screen  of  carved  oak  (ca.  1500).  A  detour  may 
be  made  to  Wate?'  Eaton,  on  the  W.  bank,  with  a  good  Elizabethan  manor- 
house.  Boats  also  may  ascend  the  Cherwell  to  (9  M.)  Islip,  passing  (I1/2  M.) 
Parson''s  Pleasure^  the  University  bathing-place,  below  which  ladies  usually 
land,  rejoining  the  boat  higher  up. 

Archaeologists  may  pay  a  visit  to  the  'British  Village",  near  Stand- 
lake,  about  7  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Oxford.  A  little  to  the  E.  of  Standlake 
is  Gaunt  House,  a  moated  dwelling-house  of  the  15th  century. 

Excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Oxford  to  Dorchester  (p.  220), 
Wantage  and  the  Vale  of  the  White  Horse  (p.  108),  Wychwood  Forest 
(10-12  M.  to  the  N.W.),  etc. 

Boating  on  the  Thames  is  a  very  favourite  recreation  at  Oxford,  two 
of  the  favourite  points  for  excursions  being  If.ftey  and  Nuneham  (see  p.  219). 
Another  river-resort  is  Oodstow  Nunnery  (Trout  Inn),  2  M.  above  Oxford, 
dating  from  the  12th  cent.  :  the  ruins  are  very  scanty,  and  their  chief  in- 
terest arises  from  the  fact  that  Fair  Rosamond  was  educated  here.  About 
1  M.  to  the  W.  of  Godstovv  is  Wytham  Abbey,  an  Elizabethan  mansion  on  the 
site  of  an  early  religious  house.  Visitors  to  the  country  round  Oxford 
should  be  familiar  with  Matthew  Arnold's  'Thyrsis'  and  'The  Scholar  Gypsy'. 

The  direct  route  from  Oxford  to  Cambridge  (77  M.,  in  3-4  hrs.,  fares 
13s.,  8s.,  6s.  5d.)  vnuivikBletchley  (see  p.  254)  and  Bedford  (p.  362).  The 
trains,  however,  are  often  slow  and  their  connection  imperfect j  so  that 
it  is  almost  as  quick  to  go^via  London. 

34.    From  Oxford  to  Leamington,  Warwick,  and 
Birmingham. 

Kenil  worth. 

66  M.  Great  Western  Railway  in  11/2-374  hrs.  (fares  lis.,  7s.,  5s,  6d.). 
Through-trains  from  London  to  Birmingham  bv  this  route  (129  M.)  take 
23/4-4  hrs.  (fares  17s.  4d.,  lis.  lOd.,  9s.  bd.). 

Oxford,  p.  224.  —  The  first  halt  is  at  (51/2  M.)  Kidlington, 
whence  a  branch-line  runs  to  the  left  to  (31/2  M.)  Blenheim  $^  Wood- 
slock  (p.  240).  —  19  m.  King's  Sutton,  with  a  fine  church  containing 
an  ancient  wooden  pulpit  (branch-line  to  Cheltenham,  p.  182). 

23  m.  Banbury  (Red  Lion;  White  Lion),  an  old  town  with 
12,767  inhab.,  on  the  Cherwell,  famous  for  its  cakes  and  ale.  Ban- 
bury Cross,  immortalised  in  nursery-rhyme,  has  recently  been  re- 
stored. Of  the  old  castle  nothing  now  remains  but  the  moat  and  a 
fragment  of  the  wall. 

From  Banbury  branch-lines  diverge  to  Blisworth  (p.  254)  and  Bucking- 
ham (p.  218).  —  Among  places  of  interest  near  Banbury  are  Broughton 
[Castle,   Wroxton  Abbey,  and  Gompton   Winyates. 

From  (3 1 1/2  M.)Fcnn J/  C'omj^^on  lines  diverge  to  Stratford  (p.  248) 
'on  the  left  and  to  Towcester  and  Blisworth  (p.  254)  on  the  right. 

^  The  former  passes  near  Edgehill,  5  M.  from  Fenny  Compton  and  2  M. 
ixova  Kineton  station,  where  the  first  battle  between  the  Royalists  and 
Parliamentarians  took  place  in  1642.  —  About  3  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Mor- 
ton Pinkney,  on  the  line  to  Blisworth,  is  Sulgrave,  the  ancestral  home  of 
the  Washington  family.  The  manor-house  was  built  by  Lawrence  Wash- 
ington about  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  and  bears  the  Washington  coat- 
of-arms  (comp.  p.  18 ))    on  the  porch.     The    distinguished  American   anti- 


to  Birmingham.  LEAMINGTON.  34.  Route.    243 

quary,  Mr.  Henry  Waters,  has  almost  conclusively  proved  George  Washing- 
ton's descent  from  the  Sulgrave  family. 

To  the  left  rise  the  Burton  Dasset  Hills. 

42  m.  Leamington.  —  Hotels.  *Regent,  in  the  Parade;  CLABE>fDON, 
Lansdowne  Place;  '-Manok  House,  Avenue  Road,  near  the  stations,  with 
a  garden;  Edston  Private  Hotel,  opposite  the  Pump  Room  Gardens,  R. 
&  A.  3s.,  D.  2s.  6(i.,  Richmondville  Private  Hotel,  Avenue  Road,  R.  & 
A.  3s.  6d.,  board  7-9i.  per  day,  both  vs'ell  spoken  of.  —  Crown;  Bath; 
Great  Western,  High  St.;  Avenue,  pens.  7s.;  Guernsey  Temperance. — 
Numerous  Boarding  Houses  and  Lodgings. 

Baths.  "Royal  Leamington  Bath  d-  Pump  Rooms,  Lower  Parade,  with 
swimming-basin  and  Turkish  baths ;  Hudson's  Sulphur  &  Saline  Springs, 
High  St.;  Old  Spring  Pump  Room  (Earl  of  Aylesford's),  Bath  St. ;  Oldham's 
Open-air  Swimming  Baths;   Free  Fountain  (saline),  Bath  St. 

Cabs.  Per  mile  1-2  pers.  Is.,  3-4  pers.  Is.  6d.,  each  addit.  1/2  M.  6(i. ; 
per  hour  2s.  6c?.,  for  each  addit.  1/2  1"*.  Is.  Each  article  of  luggage  car- 
ried outside  2d.  —  Tramway  to  Milverton  (2d.)  and  (2  M.)  Warwick  (3d.). 

Leamington,  or  Leamington  Priors,  a  well-built  watering-place 
with  26,930  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Learn,  a  tributary  of  the 
Avon,  which  is  here  crossed  by  three  bridges.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  pleasantly  interspersed  with  trees  and  gardens.  Leamington 
owes  its  prosperity  to  the  chalybeate,  saline,  and  sulphureous 
springs  discovered  here  in  1797.  The  Royal  Pump  Room  (see  above) 
is  adjoined  by  the  Pump  Room  Garden  (free),  opposite  which  are 
the  tastefully  laid  out  *Jephson  Gardens.  Leamington  is  also  noted 
for  its  schools,  the  chief  of  whicli  is  Leamington  College.  " 

The  Municipal  Offices,  a  handsome  Renaissance  structure,  with 
a  campanile,  are  situated  on  the  Parade,  near  the  middle  of 
the  town.  The  *Church  of  All  Saints  is  a  modern  Perp.  building, 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross  and  of  a  somewhat  foreign  appearance. 
The  interior  contains  a  handsome  reredos.  The  church  stands  near 
the  Victoria  Bridge  (view),  over  .the  'high-complexioned  Learn'. 

Among  the  best  points  for  short  walks  are  Warwick  Castle  (p.  244), 
21/2  M.  to  the  W.;  Guys  Cliff  (p.  245),  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  (tramway  half- 
way); and  Offchurch  Bury,  with  a  fine  park,  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  —  The  ex- 
cursion to  Kenilworth  (p.  246),  5  M.  to  the  N.W.,  may  be  made  by  rail- 
way (see  p.  246),  but  is  pleasanter  by  road.  Guy's  Cliff  and  Stoneleigh 
Abbey  (p.  246)  may  be  included  in  the  round.  —  Chesterton,  5  M.  to  the 
S.,  has  a  Perp.  church. 

Leamington  is  a  convenient  and  comfortable  centre  whence  to  explore 
the  Stratford  and  Warwick  district.  Excursions  may  be  made  to  Strai- 
ford-on-Avon  (p.  248),  either  by  railway  via  Warwick  and  Hatton  (p.  247), 
or  by  road  (lU  M.);  to  Coventry  (p.  257),  to  Hampton  Lucy,  Compton  irin- 
yates^  Compton  Verney,  etc.  The  student  of  English  history  will  find  the 
battle-fields  of  Evesham,  Tewkesbury,  Bosworth,  Naseby,  and  Edgehill  all 
within  reach. 

From  Leamington  to  Coventry,  9  31.,  L.N.  W.  Railway  in  25-30  min. 
(fares  Is.  6d.,  Is.,  9V2d.).  The  intermediate  stations  are  (1  M.)  Milverton 
and  (5  M.)  Kenilworth  (see  above).     9  M.  Coventry,  see  p.  257. 

From  Leamington  to  Rugby^  see  p.  256. 

Beyond  Leamington  the  train  crosses  the  Avon. 

441/2  M.  Warwick  [Woolpack;  Warwick  Arms,  R.  &  A.  4s. 
Gd. ;  Dale  Temperance,  14  Old  Square,  unpretending,  R.  from  is. 
6d. ;  swimming-baths  on  the  Avon  near  the  church  of  St.  Nicho- 
las),   a  quaint  old  town  with   11.900  inhab.  ,   situated  on   a   hill 

16* 


244     Route  34.  WARWICK.  From  Oxford 

rising  from  the  Avon.  It  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  having  heen 
originally  a  British  settlement,  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Romans. 
Legend  goes  back  for  its  foundation  to  King  Cymbeline  and  the 
year  one!  Its  present  name  is  Saxon.  Many  of  the  houses  have  re- 
tained their  mediaeval  appearance,  and  two  of  the  old  gates,  the 
East  and  West  Gate^  are  still  standing.  The  picturesque  ivy-clad 
house  at  the  bottom  of  the  main  street,  near  the  station,  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  From  the  station  a  footpath 
leads  to  the  old  Priory  of  St.  Sepulchre^  now  a  private  residence. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  (open 
10-1  and  2-4),  a  large  Perp.  edifice,  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in  1694. 
The  E.  end  escaped  destruction.  The  exterior  suffers  from  the  poor 
tracery  of  the  windows  in  the  rebuilt  portion ,  and  from  the  in- 
congruous parapet  added  to  the  roof.  The  tower  has  been  restored. 
The  side-galleries  were  removed  in  1896. 

The  Interior  makes  a  much  more  satisfactory  impression,  especially 
the  Chancel  (1394),  which  contains  two  fine  recumbent  effigies  of  the 
Beauchamp  family  (14th  cent.)  and  some  curious  epitaphs  on  brasses  in 
front  of  the  altar.  A  mural  monument  was  erected  in  1888  to  Wulter 
Savage  Landor  (1775-1864).  a  native  of  Warwick,  In  the  Chapter  House, 
to  the  i^ .  of  the  choir,  is  the  tomb  of  Fulke,  Lord  Greville  (d.  1623),  the 
friend  of  Sir  Philip  Sidney.  —  Below  the  choir  is  an  interesting  Norman 
Crypt.  —  On  the  S.  side  of  the  choir  is  the  chief  glory  of  the  church, 
the  'Beauchamp  Chapel  (adm.  6d.),  a  florid  Perp.  structure  of  1464,  re- 
calling the  Chapel  of  Henry  VII.  at  Westminster  Abbey.  Among  the 
numerous  interesting  monuments  are  those  of  Richard  Beauchamp^  Earl 
of  Warwick  (d.  1499),  the  builder  of  the  chapel;  Robert  Dudley,  Earl  of 
Leicester  (d.  1588),  the  favourite  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  with  his  wife  Lettice; 
Ambrose  Dudley,  Earl  of  Warwick  (d.  1589),  the  brother  of  the  last;  and 
an  infant  son  (the  'Noble  Impe',  says  the  inscription)  of  Lord  Dudley. 
The  beauty  of  the  first  of  these  monuments  shows  that  there  was  at 
least  one  English  sculptor  of  the  time  not  unworthy  of  comparison  with 
his  contemporaries,  Donatello  and  Ghiberti. 

Above  the  Market  Hall,  not  far  from  the  church,  is  the  Museum, 
containing  collections  of  birds,  fossils,  and  local  antiquities  (open 
11  to  4  or  5;  adm.  6d.,  free  on  Mon.  and  Tues.). 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  High  St. ,  beyond  the  Warwick  Arms, 
is  the  Leycester  Hospital ,  established  by  Lord  Dudley  for  twelve 
poor  brothers  in  1571,  in  a  quaint  half-timbered  building  of  earlier 
date  (open  till  7  p.  m. ;  small  fee  to  the  Brother  who  acts  as  guide). 

The  quadrangle  is  very  picturesque,  and  the  building  contains  several 
interesting  relics,  such  as  a  Saxon  chair,  said  to  be  1000  years  old,  and 
a  piece  of  needle-work  by  Amy  Robsart.  The  Spanish  cedar  beams  of 
the  hall  look  as  white  and  fresh  as  if  set  up  last  week.  The  Bear  and 
the  Ragged  Staff,  the  cognizance  of  the  Warwick  earldom,  is  frequently 
repeated,  as  in  the  Beauchamp  Chapel  (see  above),  and  indeed  throughout 
the  town.  The  chapel,  built  over  the  West  Gate  of  the  town  (see  above), 
is  also  older  than  Lord  Dudley's  foundation. 

On  a  commanding  position  overlooking  the  Avon,  at  the  S.E. 
end  of  the  town,  rises  ^Warwick  Castle,  the  ancient  and  stately 
home  of  the  Earl  of  Warwick.  The  castle ,  which  is  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  picturesque  feudal  residences  in  England,  prob- 
ably dates  from  Saxon  times;     but  the  oldest  portion  now  stand- 


to  Birmingham.  WARWICK.  34.  Route.     245 

ing  is  the  huge  Ctesar's  Tower,  nearly  150  ft.  high,  which 
seems  to  have  been  built  soon  after  the  Norman  Conquest.  The 
great  bulk  of  the  residential  part  belongs  to  the  14th  and  15th 
centuries.  The  roofs  of  the  Great  Hall  and  several  other  rooms 
were  restored  in  the  old  style  after  a  destructive  Are  in  1871. 
The  outstanding  event  in  the  history  of  the  castle  is  its  success- 
ful defence  by  the  Parliamentarians  during  the  Civil  War.  Visitors 
are  admitted  to  the  castle  after  10  a.m.  by  tickets  (Is.  each) 
obtainable  at  a  shop  opposite  the  gate. 

From  the  Porter's  Lodge  a  short  avenue  cut  in  the  solid  rock  leads  to 
the  Outer  Court ,  with  Caesar's  Tower  (see  above)  to  the  left  and  Guy's 
Tower  (128  ft.)  to  the  right.  The  top  of  the  latter  affords  an  admirable 
*View,  the  dungeons  below  Caesar's  Tower  are  interesting.  The  double 
gateway  between  them  leads  to  the  beautiful  'Inner  Courts  with  its  velvety 
turf.     Opposite  us  is  the  mound  on  which  stood   the  original  keep. 

The  Interior  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  paintings,  old  ar- 
mour, and  curiosities.  In  the  Great  Hall  are  the  sword  and  other  relics 
of  the  legendary  Count  Guy  of  Warwick  (see  below),  the  mace  of  War- 
wick the 'King-itfaker",  the  helmet  of  Cromwell,  and  the  armour  in  which 
Lord  Brooke  was  killed  at  Lichfield.  The  windows  of  this  and  many 
of  the  other  rooms  alTord  line  views  of  the  Avon.  Among  the  paintings 
are  a  portrait  of  Ignatius  Loyola  by  Rubens  (in  the  Gilt  Drawing  Boom); 
Charles  I.  by  Van  Dyck  (in  the  Passage)^  and  several  other  portraits  by 
the  same  masters.  In  the  Cedar  Drawing  Room  is  a  fine  Venetian  mirror, 
and  in  the  Gilt  Drawing  Room  an  inlaid  table  of  great  value. 
♦  '  On  issuing  from  the  interior  we  are  conducted  by  another  commis- 
sionnaire  to  the  Conservatory.,  which  contains  the  famous  'Warwick  Vase, 
found  in  Hadrian's  Villa  at  Tivoli.  The  beautiful  'Park  contains  magni- 
licent  cedars  and  other  trees. 

An  admirable  *View  of  the  castle  is  obtained  from  the  bridge  over 
the  Avon,  a  little  way  from  the  lodge.  'We  can  scarcely  think  the  scene 
rear,  says  Hawthorne,  'so  completely  do  those  machicolated  towers,  the 
long  line  of  battlements,  the  massive  buttresses,  the  high-windowed  walls, 
shape  out  our  indistinct  ideas  of  the  antique  time".  —  The  view  is  per- 
haps even  better  from  an  old  mill,  reached  by  the  road  descending 
from  the  lodge  to  the  river. 

Warwick  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions,  the  most  popular  of 
which  are  those  to  Kenilworth  and  Stratford,  both  reached  either 
by  road  or  railway. 

Route  to  Stratford,  see  p.  2i7,  —  To  reach  Kenilworth  by  railway  we 
join  the  L.N.W.  line  at  Milverton  or  Leamington  (see  p.  243);  the  rail- 
way-station at  Kenilworth  is  8/4  M.  from  the  castle. 

From  Warwick  to  Kenilworth,  by  road,  5M.',  carr.  with  one  horse 
there  and  back  95.  Qd.,  with  two  horses  20?.,  including  the  driver's  fee. 
A  pleasant  round  may  be  made  by  returning  via  Stoneleigh  Abbey  and 
Leamington  (carr.  for  the  round  15s.,  with  two  horses  25*.).  —  The  road 
leads  to  the  N.,  and  soon  reaches  (1^4  M.)  "Guy's  Cliff,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Algernon  Percy,  to  which  visitors  are  admitted  in  the  absence  of  the  family. 
The  name  is  derived  from  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick  (see  above),  whose 
feats  in  slaying  the  Dun  Cow  and  other  monsters  form  part  of  English 
legendary  lore.  On  the  river,  a  little  below  the  house,  is  a  cave  in  which 
he  is  said  to  have  lived  as  an  anchorite  after  his  return  from  the  Holy 
Land,  daily  receiving  alms  from  the  Countess  Felice,  who  did  not  recognize 
her  husband  in  his  disguise.  At  his  death,  however,  he  revealed  himself 
to  her,  and  the  two  were  buried  together  in  the  cave  in  Guy's  ClitT.  Near 
the  cave  is  a  small  chapel.  The  house  contains  some  interesting  paint- 
ings, including  several  by  Bertie  Greatheed.  son  of  a  former  owner  of  Guy's 
Cliff,  a  highlv-gifted  young  artist  who  died  in  1804  at  the  age  of  22.  Mrs. 


246     Route  34.  KENILWORTH. 

Siddons  lived  at  Guy's  Cliff  for  some  time  before  her  marriage,  as  com- 
panion to  the  Mrs,  Greatheed  of  the  time.  —  A  few  yards  down  the  road 
which  diverges  to  the  right  a  little  beyond  the  above-mentioned  glade, 
by  a  picturesque  old  mill  said  to  be  of  Saxon  date ,  a  beautiful  view  of 
Guys  Cliff  House  is  obtained.  —  About  1/4  M.  farther  on ,  to  the  left,  is 
Blaeklow  Hill,  on  which  is  a  monument  to  Piers  Gaveston,  the  unfor- 
tunate favourite  of  Edward  II.,  who  was  slain  here  in  1312.  —  In  1/2  M. 
more  we  have  a  pretty  view,  to  the  left ,  of  Wootton  Court.  We  soon 
reach  (I/2  M.)  the  village  of  Leek  Wootton. 

About  IV2  M.  farther  on  are  the  first  houses  oi  Kenilworth  (King's  Arms 
Inn,  see  below;  Abbey;  Castle,  opposite  the  castle,  indifferent),  a  small 
straggling  town  with  4170  inhabitants.  The  castle  is  about  1  M.  farther 
on.  The  King's  Arms  Inn  contains  the  room  in  which  Walter  Scott  made 
his  first  sketch  of 'Kenilworth",  'Kenilworth  Castle,  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  extensive  baronial  ruins  in  England,  was  originally  founded  by 
Geoffrey  de  Clinton,  chamberlain  of  Henry  I.,  about  1120.  In  the  13th 
cent,  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Simon  de  Montfort,  and  was  main- 
tained for  six  months  by  his  son  against  the  royal  forces  (1266),  In  1362 
Kenilworth  came  by  marriage  to  John  of  Gaunt,  who  added  largely  to 
it.  The  castle  afterwards  became  royal  property,  and  in  1563  was  pre- 
-eented  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  her  favourite,  the  Earl  of  Leicester.  Lei- 
cester spent  enormous  sums  of  money  in  enlarging  and  improving  the 
building,  and  in  1575  entertained  his  royal  patroness  here  in  the  magnificent 
style  immortalised  by  Scott.  Cromwell  gave  the  castle  to  some  of  his  of- 
ficers, who  demolished  the  stately  pile  for  the  sake  of  its  materials  and 
scattered  its  costly  collections.  After  the  Restoration  it  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Earls  of  Clarendon,  who  still  retain  it.  Perhaps  no  other 
English  castle  has  had  more  varied  points  of  contact  with  English  history, 
from  the  stormy  and  semi-barbarous  times  of  Simon  de  Montfort,  down 
through  the  pompous  and  courtly  luxury  of  the  Elizabethan  period,  to  the 
iconoclastic  days  of  the  Protectorate;  while  under  the  touch  of  the  'Magi- 
cian of  the  North'  it  has  renewed  its  youth  in  our  own  era,  and,  ruin 
though  it  be,  is  more  familiar  and  present  to  contemporary  thought  than 
almost  any  occupied  mansion  in  the  country. 

We  enter  (adm.  6d.)  by  a  small  gate  to"  the  N.W.  of  Leicester  s  Gate- 
house (now  occupied  as  a  private  dwelling),  and  passing  along  the  wall 
turn  to  the  right  and  obtain  a  \'iew  of  the  main  part  of  the  building. 
The  part  nearest  us  (to  the  right)  is  the  Norman  Keep  or  Caesar  s  Tower, 
which  seems  to  have  had  three  or  four  stories;  the  walls  are  15-16  ft. 
thick.  Beyond  this,  to  the  W.,  is  a  vacant  space  formerly  occupied  by 
the  Kitchen,  crossing  which  we  reach  (at  the  N.W.  angle)  the  Strong  or 
Mervyws  Tower,  built  by  John  of  Gaunt  (ca.  1392);  the  'small  octangular 
chamber'  on  the  second  floor  is  that  assigned  by  Walter  Scott  to  Amv 
Bobsart.  The  Pleasance^  of  which  it  'commanded  a  delightful  view',  is 
now  an  orchard  and  vegetable  garden.  The  grotto  in  which  Amy  was 
discovered  by  the  Queen  adjoined  the  Swan  Tower,  at  the  apex  of  the 
Pleasance.  At  right  angles  to  Mervyn's  Tower  is  the  'Banqueting  Hall, 
also  built  by  'time-honoured  Lancaster',  with  two  fine  oriels  at  its  S.  end. 
The  three  apartments  next  in  order,  on  the  S,  side  of  the  quadrangle,  are 
known  as  the  White  Hall,  the  Presence  Chamber,  and  the  Privi/  Chamber, 
and  also  date  from  the  Lancastrian  period.  The  large  pile  at  the  end, 
with  Tudor  windows,  was  erected  by  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  and  in  spite 
of  its  comparative  youth  needs  support  which  the  Norman  keep  disdains. 
The  buildings  just  "described  form  the  Inner  Court;  and  the  outer  line 
of  defence,  v^iih.  the  Swan,  Lunn's,  Water,  ani  Mortimer  Towers,  may  also 
be  traced.  The  Great  Lake  lay  to  the  W.  and  S.  of  the  outer  wall;  and 
the  Tilt- Yard  lay  outside  Mortimer's  Tower,  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the 
enclosure.  The  Chapels,  those  of  the  original  Korman  building  and  of 
John  of  Gaunt,  have  disappeared.     Comp.  the  Plan. 

If  time  permit,  we  may,  before  leaving  Kenilworth,  visit  the  ParishChurch, 
with  some  Norman  details,  and  the  adjacent  fragmentary  ruins  of  Kenil- 
worth Priory,  founded  by  Geofl'rey  de  Clinton  (see  above). 

About  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  Kenilworth  is  Stoneleigh  Abbey,  the  seat  of 


to 


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(Three  ifilts  lo  an  incW  KUomitres 


CHARLECOTE.  35.  Route.     247 

Lord  Leigh,  a  large  mansion  erected  last  century.  It  occupies  the  site 
of  a  Cistercian  abbey,  of  which  a  gateway  (16th  cent.)  remains,  and  con- 
tains a  good  collection  of  paintings  and  some  fine  wainscoting  (state 
rooms  shown  to  visitors).  Fine  oaks  in  the  park.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  N.W. 
of  Warwick,  4  M.  from  Kenilworth  and  Q'/z  M.  from  Kingswood  (see 
below),  is  Wroxhall,  a  modern  mansion,  incorporating  some  remains  of 
a   priory  of  the  12th  century.     The  church  is  also  interesting. 

Excursions  mav  also  be  made  from  "Warwick  to  Leamington  (p.  243), 
Edgehill  (p.  242),  Coventry  (p.  257),  etc. 

Beyond  Warwick  the  train  quits  the  valley  of  the  Avon.  — 
49  M.  Halt  on .,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Stratford-on-Avon  (see 
below).  —  53  M.  Kingswood  ;  oSi/o  M.  Knowle.  with  an  Idiot  As>l- 
um  and  a  handsome  church;  SS^/o  M.  Solihull  (George),  a  prettily 
situated  village  with  an  interesting  restored  church,  in  the  Dec.  and 
Perp.  styles.  The  train  then  passes  two  or  three  other  small  sta- 
tions and  traverses  the  manufacturing  suburbs  of  Birmingham. 

66  M.  Birmingham  (Snow  Hill  Station),  see  p.  258. 

35.    From  Warwick  to  Stratford-on-Avon. 

141/2  M.  Railway  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  2*.  Sd.,  is.  bd..  Is.  IV2  d.).  Carriages  are 
sometimes  changed  at  Eatton.  —  Warwick  is  8  M.  from  Stratford  by  the 
road  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Avon,  and  10  M.  by  the  pleasanter  road  on 
the  left  bank.     Carriage  with  one  horse  8-10«.,  with  two    horses  15-20s. 

Stratford  may  also  be  reached  by  railway  from  Fenny  Compton  (p.  242), 
Honeyhourne  (p.  iSS),  and  Broom  Junction  (p.  189). 

a,  Bxj  Raihcay. 

From  Warwick  to  (4^2  M-)  Hatton.,  see  above.  —  Our  train 
here  diverges  to  the  left  (S.)  from  the  main  G.  W.  R.  line  to  Bir- 
mingham. —  6^2  M.  Claverdon ;  10  M.  Bearley,  the  junction  of  a  line 
to  (7  M.)  Alcester  (p.  189);  11 1/2  M.  Wilmcote,  the  birthplace  of 
Mary  Arden,  Shakespeare's  mother. 

141/2  M.  Stratford-on-Avon,  see  p.  248.  Beyond  Stratford  the 
railway  is  continued  to  Honeyhourne  (p.  188). 

b.  By  Road. 

We  leave  Warwick  by  the  road  leading  past  the  Leycester 
Hospital  (p.  244),  and  at  first  follow  the  right  bank  of  the  Avon. 
At  the  fork  we  keep  to  the  left,  soon  seeing  to  the  right  the  spire  of 
the  fine  new  church  of  Sherbonrne.  At  (2  M.)  Barford,  which  has  a 
beautiful  little  Gothic  church  by  Sir  G.  Scott,  we  cross  the  river, 
and  about  l^/o  M.  farther  on  we  pass  the  village  of  Wasperton 
(to  the  right)  ,  with  a  restored  church.  —  About  *  2  ^^-  beyond 
Wasperton  our  road  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  highroad,  and 
reaches  (1  M.)  Charlecote  and  the  N.  extremity  of  Charlecote  Park 
(see  p.  250;  view  of  the  house  to  the  right).  The  road  now  skirts 
the  E.  side  of  the  park  and  then  turns  to  the  right  and  skirts  its 
S.  side.     After  1  M.  we  pass   the  lodge-gate  at  the  S.W.  angle  of 


248     Route  35.       STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

Charlecote  Park.  The  pretty  village  of  Alveston  lies  among  trees  to 
the  right ,  1  M.  farther  on ,  in  a  loop  of  the  river ,  of  which  the 
road  forms  the  chord.  ^/^  M.  Tiddington^  with  some  quaint  old 
houses.  After  I1/4M.  more  we  reach  the  bridge  leading  across  the 
Avon  to  Stratford.  —  The  direct  route  from  Warwick  to  Stratford 
(8  M.)  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Avon ,  but  at  some  distance 
from  the  river. 

Stratford-on-Avon  (Red  Horse,  see  p.  250;  Shakespeare  Hotel, 
with  rooms  named  after  Shakespeare's  plays,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  table 
d'hote  5s.;  Golden  Lion,  Bridge  St.:  Temperance .  next  door  to  the 
Red  Horse;  Falcon.  Fountain  Temperance,  Old  Red  Lion,  un- 
pretending ;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  a  clean  and  well-built  little 
country-town  of  about  9000inhab.,  with  wide  and  pleasant  streets 
containing  numerous  quaint  half-timbered  houses.  It  is  a  place 
of  some  antiquity ,  and  is  mentioned  in  a  Saxon  charter  of  the 
8th  century.  Though  not  without  importance  as  an  agricultural 
centre  ,  it  owes  its  prosperity  chiefly  to  the  memory  of  the  great 
dramatist  born  here  in  1564,  whose  name  and  form  have  been  im- 
ported, in  one  shape  or  another,  into  the  trade-mark  of  almost 
every  saleable  article  in  the  town.  About  30,000  pilgrims  (one- 
fourth  Americans)  anuiially  pay  for  admission  to  Shakespeares 
House,  while  many  thousands  of  other  visitors  also  flock  to  the  town 
in  summer.  Visitors  are  recommended  to  obtain  (gratis)  from  Mr. 
Edward  Fox,  1  High  St.  (the  Shakespeare-Quiney  House,  p.  250), 
a  large-scale  plan  of  Stratford,  indicating  the  various  spots  associat- 
ed with  Shakespeare. 

*Shakespeare's  House,  in  which  the  poet  was  born  on  April 
23rd,  1564,  is  in  Henley  St.;  it  is  now  national  property,  and  is 
kept  in  scrupulously  good  order.  It  is  shown  daily  (except  Sun.) 
from  9  a.m.  to  6  p.m.  (adm.  6d. ;  museum  6d.  extra).  The  house 
has  undergone  various  vicissitudes  since  Shakespeare's  day,  but  the 
timber  framework,  the  floors,  most  of  the  internal  walls,  and  the  cel- 
lars remain  substantially  unaltered,  and  the  restoration  in  1857 was 
directed  towards  a  reproduction  of  the  building  as  it  stood  in  1564. 

ISTEEiOK.  The  small  chamber  facing  the  street,  on  the  first  floor, 
has  been  consecrated  by  tradition  as  that  in  which  the  poet  was  born.  The 
walls  of  all  the  rooms  were  covered  with  the  inscribed  names  of  visit- 
ors; but  these  were  concealed  with  whitewash  for  many  years.  The 
signatures  of  Walter  Scott  (scratched  on  the  window),  Byron,  Thackeray, 
Tennyson  ,  Kean,  and  Dickens  are,  however,  still  pointed  out  in  the  birth- 
room.  No  new  names  are  now  allowed  to  be  added.  The  back-room  on 
the  upper  floor  contains  a  very  interesting  old  portrait  of  Shakespeare 
(the  'Stratford  Portrait'),  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the  Clopton  family 
(see  below),  and  showing  the  poet  in  the  same  dress  as  in  the  bust  at  the 
church  (p.  249).  Below  the  Kitchen,  on  the  groundfloor,  is  a  dark  Cellar, 
one  of  the  few  rooms  that  has  not  been  changed  since  the  poet's  boy- 
hood. —  The  rooms  to  the  right  on  the  groundfloor  are  fitted  up  as  a 
Shakespeare  Museum,  and  contain  a  most  interesting  collection  of  portraits, 
early  editions,  and  other  relics  of  the  great  dramatist,  including  his  school- 
desk  and  signet-ring.  —  The  Garden  at  the  back  of  the  house  contains  a 
selection  of  the  trees  and  flowers  mentioned  in  Shakespeare's  plays. 


STRATFORD-ON-AVON.      35.  Route.     249 

From  Henley  St.  we  may  now  pass  throuf;]!  High  Street,  where,  on 
the  right,  is  a  picturesque  half-timbered  house,  bearing  the  date 
1596,  once  the  home  of  the  Harvard  family,  of  which  the  founder 
of  the  famous  American  university  was  a  scion.  At  the  corner  of 
Chapel  Street  is  the  Town  Hall,  on  the  outside  of  which  is  a  statue 
of  Shakespeare,  presented  by  David  Garrick;  inside  are  portraits  of 
Shakespeare  by  Wilson  and  Garrick  by  Gainsborough  (fee  optional). 

At  the  other  end  of  Chapel  St.,  also  to  the  left,  is  New  Place, 
the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Shakespeare  resided  on  his  return 
to  Stratford  in  later  life,  and  where  he  died  on  April  23rd,  1616. 

In  the  middle  of  last  century,  the  house,  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Sir  Hugh  Clopton  about  1490,  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Rev.  Francis 
Gastrell,  who  razed  it  to  the  ground  in  1759,  owing  to  a  quarrel  about  the 
rates,  having  cut  down  the  poet's  mulberry-tree  in  1756  to  save  himself  from 
the  importunities  of  visitors  I  The  adjoining  house,  now  also  called  New- 
Place  (adm.  6c?.)  cont^iins  another  but  less  interesting  Shakespeare  Mu- 
seum, through  which  we  obtain  access  to  the  gardens  with  the  foundations 
of  Shakespeare's  house,  an  old  well,  and  a  scion  of  the  mulberry.  —  Be- 
hind (entr.  from  Chapel  Lane)  are  the  New  Place  Public  Gardens  (open  all 
day,  free  in  summer;  Sun.  2-6). 

Opposite  New  Place,  at  the  corner  of  Chapel  Lane  and  Church 
St.,  stands  the  Guild  Chapel,  rebuilt  by  Sir  Hugh  Clopton  (see 
above)  and  still,  like  the  parish-church  and  the  grammar-school, 
externally  much  the  same  as  in  the  poet's  days.  It  is  adjoined  by 
the  old  Guild  Hall,  where  Shakespeare  may  often  have  seen  the 
performances  of  strolling  players ;  while  the  upper  story,  substan- 
tially unchanged  but  restored  in  1892.  is  the  Grammar  School  in 
which  he  was  educated,  founded  in  the  14th  century. 

At  the  end  of  Church  St.  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  road 
named  Old  Town  to  the  *Ch.urch  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  charmingly 
situated  amid  trees  on  the  bank  of  the  Avon.  The  central  tower 
dates  from  the  12th  cent,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  spire  of 
later  date.  The  nave  and  transepts  rank  next  in  age,  and  the  church 
was  completed  in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  addition  of  the  clerestory 
and  the  rebuilding  of  the  chancel.  Traces  of  an  earlier  church  have 
recently  been  exposed  in  the  N.  transept.  The  church  (adm.  6rf.) 
was  restored  in  1890-92. 

The  imposing  Interior  contains  many  monuments  of  interest;  but 
'the  mind  refuses  to  dweir,  as  Washington  Irving  says  in  his  well- 
known  sketch,  'on  anything  that  is  not  connected  with  Shakespeare. 
His  idea  pervades  the  place;  the  whole  pile  seems  but  as  his  mau- 
soleum. The  feelings,  no  longer  checked  and  thwarted  by  doubt, 
here  indulge  in  perfect  confidence;  other  traces  of  him  may  be  false  or 
dubious,  but  here  is  palpable  evidence  and  absolute  certainty'.  The 
Grave  of  the  poet  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the  chancel,  and  is  covered  by  a 
slab  bearing  an  oft-quoted  inscription.  On  the  wall  above  is  the  familiar 
Bust,  executed  soon  after  Shakespeare's  death  by  Gerard  .Johnson.  The 
original  colouring  has  been  reproduced.  The  adjacent  stained-glass  win- 
dow, representing  the  Seven  Ages,  was  erected  with  the  contributions 
of  American  visitors.  —  Another  memorial  window,  presented  by  Ameri- 
cans, was  unveiled  in  the  S.  transept  in  1896.  The  main  subject  is  the 
Incarnation;  in  the  E.  side-light  are  figures  of  the  Bishop  of  Worcester 
(716    A.D.),    Charles    I.,    and  ^Archbp.    Laud,    with    the   Death    of  Laud 


250   Route  35.         STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

below;  in  the  W.  side-light,  Amerigo  Vespucci,  Columbus,  and  William 
Penn,  with  the  Landing  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  below.  The  design  also 
includes  figures  of  John  de  Stratford,  Archbp.  of  Canterbury  in  1333, 
St.  Eric,  first  transatlantic  bishop  (in  Greenland),  and  Bp.  Seabury,  first 
bishop  of  Connecticut.  —  Close  to  Shakespeare's  tomb  are  those  of  his 
wife,  Anne  Hathaway  (d.  1623) ;  his  daughter ,  Susan  Hall  (d.  1649) ;  his 
son-in-law,  Dr.  Hall;  and  Thomas  Xash,  the  first  husband  of  his  grand- 
daughter Elizabeth.  —  Among  the  other  monuments  are  several  of  the 
Clapton  Family,  and  the  altar-tombs  of  Dean  Balsall  {d  1491),  the  restorer 
of  the  chancel,  and  John  Combe,  the  money-lender.  —  The  font  in  which 
Shakespeare  was  christened,  the  register  containing  the  entries  of  his 
baptism  and  funeral,  and  an  old  chained  Bible  (1611)  are  shewn  to  visitors 
at  the  W.  end  of  the  church. 

The  Shakespeare  Memorial  Building  (Gd.),  situated  on  the  Avon, 
a  little  above  the  church,  at  the  end  of  Chapel  Lane,  was  erected 
in  1879,  in  red  brick  and  stone,  which  time  is  gradually  bringing 
into  harmony  with  its  venerable  surroundings.  It  includes  a  Theatre, 
in  -which  annual  memorial  performances  are  held  in  April  and 
occasional  performances  in  winter,  a  gallery  of  Shakespearian  paint- 
ings, and  a  library  of  rare  Shakespearian  books.  Visitors  should 
ascend  the  tower  for  the  *View  of  Stratford.  In  the  adjoining 
grounds  is  the  Shakespeare  Monument,  presented  in  1888  by  the 
sculptor,  Lord  Ronald  Gower.  On  the  top  is  a  colossal  seated  figure 
of  the  poet,  and  round  the  base  are  figures  of  Lady  Macbeth  (re- 
presenting Tragedy),  Prince  Hal  (History),  Falstaff  (Comedy),  and 
Hamlet  (Philosophy).  —  Higher  up  is  the  'great  and  sumptuous 
Bridge  upon  the  Avon',  built  by  Sir  Hugh  Clopton  (p.  249).  It 
commands  a  charming  *View  up  and  down  the  river. 

In  Bridge  Street,  which  leads  from  the  bridge  into  the  town,  is 
the  Red  Horse  Hotel,  containing  the  room  in  which  Washington  Ir- 
ving wrote  his  delightful  paper  on  Stratford-on-Avon.  The  chair  he 
sat  in  and  the  poker  with  which  he  meditatively  poked  the  fire  are 
still  shown  as  'Geoffrey  Crayon's  Throne  and  Sceptre'.  —  The  house 
at  the  corner  of  Bridge  St.  and  High  St.  was  occupied  by  the  poet's 
younger  daughter,  Judith  Shakespeare  (Mrs.  Quiney).  for  36  years. 
—  At  the  end  of  Wood  St.,  the  E.  continuation  of  Bridge  St.,  is  a 
Fountain  and  Clock- Tower,  presented  in  1887  by  an  American. 

About  1  M.  to  the  W,  of  Stratford  is  Shotiery,  which  is  best  reached 
by  a  footpath,  starting  either  from  Evesham  Place,  or  from  a  point  near 
the  G.  W.  R.  Station.  "-Anne  Hathatcap' s  Cottage  is  still  standing  here  in 
substantially  the  same  condition  as  when  Shakespeare  courted  his  future 
wife.  It  was  purchased  for  the  nation  in  1892  for  aOOOZ.  It  is  still  occupied 
by  a  descendant  of  the  Hathaway  family  (Mrs.  Baker).  It  contains  an  old 
settle,  a  carved  bedstead,  some  'ever-lasting  linen  sheets',  and  other  relics 
of  300  years  since.  In  front  of  the  cottage  is  a  small  garden,  gay  with 
old-fashioned  (lowers.  —  From  Shottery  the  walk  may  be  continued  to 
Luddington,  where  Shakespeare  was  married,  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  The  church 
has,  however,  been  entirely  rebuilt  after  a  fire. 

An  excursion  should  also  be  made  to  Charlecote,  the  mansion  where, 
according  to  the  story,  Shakespeare  was  brought  up  before  Sir  Thomas 
Lucy  for  deer-stealing,  still  occupied  by  a  collateral  descendant  and 
namesake  of  that  worthy  'Justice  Shallow'.  Visitors  may  drive  through 
the  fine  park  and  are  admitted  to  the  house  (Is.),  which  contains  a  good 
collection  of  old  paintings,  antique  furniture,  and  many  objects  of  Shake- 


HARROW-ON-THE-HILL.     36.  Route.     25 1 

spearian  interest.  We  crosB  the  bridge  over  the  Avon,  turn  to  the  left, 
pass  through  Tiddington  and  Alveston  (comp.  p.  248),  and  reach  (S'/z  M.) 
the  lodge-gate  of  Charlecote.  Passing  through  the  gate  by  the  footpath 
and  crossing  the  park,  which  is  still  well-stocked  with  "deer,  we  soon 
come  in  sight  of  the  house,  an  extensive  red  brick  building  of  the  Eliza- 
bethan period.  Visitors  unprovided  with  a  permit  should  not  cross  the  small 
stream  flowing  past  the  house.  To  the  left  is  visible  the  spire  of  Hamp- 
ton Lncy  Church,  a  handsome  structure  by  Rickman  and  Scott,  which  may 
be  reached  by  turning  to  the  left  on  leaving  the  park  at  the  other  end.  — 
Charlecote  Church  (comp.  p.  247)  contains  several  monuments  of  the  Lucy 
family,  including  one  to  the  wife  of  Sir  Thomas  Lucy  (p.  250),  with  "a 
line  epitaph,  ascribed  to  the  knight  himself,  which  should  go  far  to 
prove  that  Shallow,  if  indeed  meant  for  Sir  Thomas,  is  a  caricature  of 
the  original.  The  church  was  rebuilt  in  1852,  the  old  Lucy  chapel  and 
vault  being  incorporated  with  the  new  structure. 

All  lovers  of  Shakespeare  will  find  much  that  is  most  suggestive  and 
interesting  in  the  quaint  little  villages  around  Stratford;  and  longer  ex- 
cursions mav  be  made  to  Warwick  (p.  243),  Leamington  (p.  243),  Kenil- 
worth  (p.  246),  Evesham  (p.   188),  EdgehUl  (p.  242),  etc. 

36.   From  London  to  Verney  Junction  via  Harrow 
and  Aylesbury. 

50  31.  Railway  from  Baker  Street  Station  in  2  hr,^.  (fares  7*.  lOd. , 
5«.  10(/.,  85.  lie?.).  To  (10  M.)  Harrow  in  22-80  min.  (I5.  4d.,  Is.,  8c^.) ;  to 
(38  M.)  Aylesbury  IV2  hr.  (fares  55.  lOrf.,  45.  4c?.,  25.  iid^.  This  line  is  an 
extension  of  the  St.  John's  Wood  branch  of  the  Metropolitan  Railway. 

This  route  coincides  with  the  first  portion  of  the  new  direct  route  from 
London  {Marylebone  Station;  p.  1)  to  Nottingham,  now  under  construction, 
via  Quainton  Road  (see  p.  253). 

From  London  to  (10  M.)  Harrovr,  see  Baedeker  s  London. 

10  M.  Harrow-on-the-Hill  (Kings  Head;  Railway  Hotel).  The 
large  Public  School  here,  founded  by  John  Lyon,  yeoman,  in  1571, 
is  scarcely  second  to  Eton,  and  has  numbered  Lord  Byron,  Sir  Rob- 
ert Peel,  Sheridan,  Spencer  Perceval,  Viscount  Palmerston,  and 
numerous  other  eminent  men  among  its  pupils.  The  older  portion 
of  the  school  is  in  the  Tudor  style.  The  chapel,  library,  and  speech 
room  are  all  quite  modern.  The  panels  of  the  great  school-room  are 
covered  with  the  names  of  the  boys,  including  those  of  Byron. 
Peel,  and  Palmerston.  The  number  of  scholars  is  now  about  630. 
Harrow  Church  has  a  lofty  spire,  which  is  a  conspicuous  object  in 
the  landscape  for  many  miles  round.  The  churchyard  commands  a 
most  extensive  *View.  A  flat  tombstone,  on  which  Byron  used  to 
lie  when  a  boy,  is  still  pointed  out.  Harrow  also  has  a  station  on 
the'  L.N.W.  line  (p.  253).  —  12V-2  M.  Pinner  (Queen's  Head,  a 
quaint  'Queen  Anne'  building),  a  prettily  situated  little  town.  A 
little  to  the  W.  lie  Ruislip  Park  and  Reservoir.  —  About  3  M.  to 
the  S.W.  of  (I4V2  M.)  Northxcood ,  with  its  numerous  suburban 
villas  and  an  excellent  golf-course,  lies  Harefield^  the  scene  of  Mil- 
ton's 'Arcades'. 

18  M.  Rickmansworth  (Victoria;  Swan),  a  small  paper-making 
town  (^TOOOinhab.")  on  the  Chess.,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Colne., 
is  a  good  centre  for  excursions.    Large  quantities  of  water-cress  are 


252     Route  36.  AYLESBURY. 

grown  here  for  the  London  market.  To  the  S.E.,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Colne,  lies  Moor  Park  (Lord  Ebury),  with  its  fine  timber. 

Walkers  are  advised  to  quit  the  railway  here  and  proceed  to  (91/2  M.) 
Chesham  on  foot  through  the  *Valley  of  the  Chess.  We  turn  to  the  right 
on  leaving  the  station,  pass  under  the  railway  arch,  ascend  a  few  steps 
immediately  to  the  left,  cross  the  railway  by  a  foot-bridge,  and  enter 
Rickmansworth  Park,  with  its  fine  old  trees.  The  walk  across  the  park 
brings  us  in  25  min.  to  a  road,  which  we  cross  obliquely  (to  the  left)  to 
a  meadow-path  leading  to  (1/4  hr.)  the  highroad  to  Chenies,  at  a  point  near 
the  village  of  Chorley  Wood  (V2M.  from  the  station,  aee  below).  About 
13/4  M.  farther  on  we  turn  to  the  right  (sign-post)  for  (I/2  M.)  the  pictur- 
esque and  neatly  built  village  of  Chenies  ("Bedford  Inn).  The  ^'Mortuary 
Chapel  attached  to  the  church  here  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Russells  from 
1556  to  the  present  day,  forming  an  almost  unique  instance  in  England  of 
a  family  burial-place  of  this  kind  (admission  only  by  order  obtained  on 
application  to  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  at  Woburn  Abbey).  The  finest  mon- 
ument is  that  of  *Anne,  Countess  of  Bedford  (d.  1558).  the  builder  of  the 
chapel.  Lord  William  Russell  (beheaded  in  1683).  Lord  John  Russell  (1792- 
1878),  and  Lord  Ampthill  (d.  18S4)  are  buried  here.  Adjoining  the  church 
is  a  fragment  of  the  old  manor-house.  Matthew  Arnold  and  J.  A.  Froude 
frequently  visited  Chenies  for  the  sake  of  angling  in  the  Chess.  —  To 
reach  Cheaham  we  follow  the  lane  between  the  church  and  the  manor- 
house,  and  then  turn  to  the  left  along  a  path  through  wood  on  the  slope 
of  the  valley  of  the  Chess.  View  of  the  Elizabethan  mansion  of  Latimers 
(Lord  Chesham),  on  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  After  about  V*  l^r.  we 
pass  through  two  gates.  20  min.  Lane,  leading  to  the  left  to  Chalfont  Road 
station  (see  below).  In  10  min.  more  we  descend  to  the  right  to  the  road 
and  follow  it  to  the  left  to  (2  M.)  Chesham  (sefe  below). 

Perhaps  no  walk  in  England  of  equal  length  combines  more  literary 
interest  and  rural  charm  than  that  from  Rickmansworth  to  (18  M.)  Slough 
(p.  106)  via  (5  M.)  Chalfont  St.  Giles  (see  below);  6V4  M.  Jordan^,  with 
the  graves  of  Elwood  (Milton's  secretary),  William  Penn,  his  wife,  and 
five  of  his  children;  8'/2M.  Beaconsjield.  with  a  house  (named  Gregories), 
once  occupied  by  Edmund  Waller  (d.  1687)  and  Edmund  Burke  (d.  1797); 
12  M.  Bifrnham  Beeches;  and  (16  'il.)  Stoke  Poges^  the  churchyard  of  which 
is  the  scene  of  Grays  famous  elegy.  The  walk  is  described  in  detail  in 
Baedekers  London. 

20  M.  Chorley  Wood  and  (22  M.)  Chalfont  Road  are  each  about 
iy.2  M.  from  Chenies  (see  abovel.  They  are  also  nearly  equidistant 
(3-372  M.)  from  the  charming  little  village  of  Chalfont  St.  Giles. 
The  cottage  here  in  which  Milton  finished  "Paradise  Lost'  and  began 
'Paradise  Regained'  (1665-68)  has  been  left  unchanged  since  the 
poet's  time  and  contains  a  few  relics  (adm.  6rf. ,  a  party  3d.  each). 

A  short  branch-line  runs  from  Chalfont  Road  to  (5  M.)  Chesham  (Crown; 
George),  a  quaint  old  town  with  8(X)0  inhab.,  mainly  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  furniture  and  other  articles  in  beech-wood,  cricket-bats, 
tennis-rackets,  wooden  spades,  French  hoops,  etc.  Ducks  and  water-cress 
are  also  extensively  produced.    Fine  view  from  the  Park. 

26  M.  Amersham  (Griffin;  Crown),  with  2500  inhab.,  is  another 
seat  of  the  beechwood-chair  industry.  31V  9  M.  Great  Missenden. 
35^2  M.  Wendover  (Red  Lion;  Shoulder  of  Mutton),  an  old  market 
town,  with  anE.E.  church,  has  manufactures  of  straw-plait  and  pil- 
low-lace. 37  M.  Stoke  -  Mandeville.  —  38  M.  Aylesbury  (George; 
Crown;  King's  Head),  the  county- town  of  Buckinghamshire,  is  a 
great  agricultural  centre,  famous  for  its  ducks  and  milk.  The  E.  E. 
Church  of  St,  Mary  contains  choir -stalls   of  the  15th  cent,  and  a 


WATFORD  37.'Route.    253 

14th  cent.  Lady  Chapel  with  an  earlier  crypt.  —  A  Female  Convict 
Prison,  to  supersede  that  at  Woking  (p.  74)  was  built  near  Ayles- 
bury in  1895;  it  is  the  only  convict-prison  for  women  in  England, 
and  can  accommodate  300  prisoners. 

From  Aylesbury  a  line  runs  E.  to  Cheddington  (p.  254).  To  Risborough, 
see  p.  218. 

About  4  M.  from  (40  M.)  Waddesdon  Manor  is  the  modern 
mansion  of  Waddesdon,  the  seat  of  Baron  Ferdinand  de  Rothschild. 

—  41  M.  Quainton  Koad. 

A  branch-line  runs  hence  to  (7  M.)  Brill,  a  small  town  with  an  inter- 
esting Church  (restored  1890)  and  the  remains  of  a  Palace,  said  to  have 
been  occupied  by  Edward  the  Confessor. 

(Quainton  Road  is  the  point  of  divergence  of  the  new  route  (under 
construction)  of  the  Central  Railway  Co.  to  Nottingham  (p.  433),  via  Rugby, 
Leicester,  and  Loughborough. 

45  M.  Grandborough  Road.  —  47  M.  Winslow  Road.  —  50  M. 
Verney  Junction  (p.  218). 

37.  From  London  to  Birmingham 
via,  Rugby  and  Coventry. 

113  M.  L.N.  W.  Railway  (  Euston  Station)  in  23/4-31/2  hrs.  (fares  17s.  4d., 
Us.  lOd.,  05.  5c?.).  Luncheon-baskets  may  be  obtained  at  Euston  and  the 
other   chief  stations.     The  country  traversed  is  somewhat  monotonous. 

Beyond  Camden  Town,  with  the  principal  depot  of  the  North 
Western  Railway,  and  Chalk  Farm ,  the  train  threads  the  Primrose 
Hill  Tunnel,  1160  yds.  long.  Near  (3  M.)  Kilhurn  is  another  tun- 
nel, after  which  we  see  Kensal  Green  Cemetery  (see  Baedeker's  Lon- 
don) on  the  left.  —  6^/2  M.  Willesden  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  an 
important  railway-junction ,  passed  daily  by  700  trains.  Beyond 
(8  M.)  Sudbury  a  view  is  obtained  to  the  left  of  Harrow  on-the-Hill. 

11 V2  M.  Harrow;  the  station  is  1  M.  from  the  town  oi  Harrow - 
on-the-Hill  (p.  251).    A  short  branch-line  runs  hence  to  Stanmore. 

—  Near  (13V2  M.)  Pinner  (p.  251),  to  the  right,  are  the  red  brick 
buildings  of  the  Commercial  Travellers'  Schools.  Beyond  Pinner  we 
notice  the  ingenious  arrangement  by  which  the  locomotives  supply 
themselves  with  water,  without  slackening  speed,  from  troughs 
laid  down  between  the  rails.  —  16  M.  Bushey.  —  17^/2  M.  Watford 
(Clarendon;  Maldon)  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Colne ,  among 
the  woods  of  Cassiobury  (Earl  of  Essex)  and  the  Grove  (Earl  of 
Clarendon).  A  pretty  public  walk  crosses  the  park  of  the  former, 
but  neither  house  is  shown.  To  the  right  are  the  buildings  of  the 
London  Orphan  Asylum.  Watford  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (7  M.) 
St.  Albans  (p.  364),  and  of  another  to  (4  M.)  Rickmansivorth 
(p.  251).  —  We  now  pass  through  another  tunnel,  upwards  of  1  M. 
long,  and  cross  the  Grand  Junction  Canal.  —  241/2  M.  Boxmoor, 
the  station  for  Hemel  Hempstead.  —  28  M.  Berkhampstead ;  in  the 
pretty  valley  to  the  left  lies  the  town  of  Great  Berkhampstead  (^  King's 
Arms ),  birthplace  of  the  poet  Cowper  (1731-1800),  with  the  remains 


254     Route  37.  DUNSTABLE.  From  London 

of  a  castle  and  a  Dec.  church.  We  soon  obtain  a  view  of  the  Chil- 
tern  Hills^  which  give  name  to  the  'Stewardship  of  the  Chiltem 
Hundreds',  a  nominal  office  conferred  upon  members  of  parliament 
wishing  to  resign  their  seats.  —  32  M.  Tring  (Rose  &  Crown)  is 
an  ancient  town  with  a  handsome  church,  2  M.   from  the  station. 

The  mansion  of  Tring  Park  (Lord  Rothschild)  was  built  by  Wren. 
Visitors  are  courteously  admitted  to  the  Hon.  Walter  Rothschild's  excel- 
lent Zoological  Museum  on  Men..  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  1-4  (Frid.  also 
10-12)  in  summer,  and  3-6  (Wed.  4-7)  in  winter.  —  Several  families  of 
kangaroos  have  been  successfully  acclimatized  in  Tring  Woods. 

About  21/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Tring  is  Drayton  Beauchamp ,  where  the 
'Judicious  Hooker'  was  rector  (1585),  when  visited  by  Cranmer  and  Sandys, 
as  narrated  by  Izaak  Walton. 

Beyond  Tring  the  train  traverses  the  Chiltern  Hills  by  a  deep 
cutting  and  enters  Buckinghamshire.  36  M.  Cheddington  is  the 
junction  of  a  line  to  Aylesbury  (p.  252).  —  40V2  M.  Leighton  is 
the  station  fox  Leighton  Buzzard  ['^eaiw  Beseii' ;  Swan),  a  small 
town  V2  M.  to  the  W.,  with  an  E.  E.  church  and  a  market-cross. 

About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.  (1  M.  from  Cheddington)  is  Mentmore,  a  seat 
of  Lord  Rosebery,  of  which  Matthew  Arnold  says  'it  is  like  a  Venetian 
palace  doubled  in  size,  and  all  Europe  has  been  ransacked  to  fill  it  with 
appropriate  furniture'  (access  sometimes  obtained  on  written  application). 

From  Leighton  to  Dcsstable  and  Luton.  IIV2  M.,  railwav  in  1/2-I  hr. 
(fares  I5.  iOd.,  is.  2c?.,  iiy-id.-).  —  6  M.  Dunstable  (Sugarloaf;  Red  Lion; 
Saracen^s  Head).,  a  town  with  45(X)  inhab.  and  manufactories  of  straw 
bonnets  and  baskets.  Dunstable  larks  are  sent  in  large  quantities  to 
London.  The  Priory  Church  (restored)  is  a  tine  2forman  building,  dating 
in  part  from  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  (1100-35).  Charles  I.  slept  at  the  Red 
Lion  Inn  here  when  on  his  way  to  Naseby.  —  IIV2  M.  Luton,  see  p.  364. 

From  Leighton  an  excursion  may  be  made  to  Woburn  ('Bedford  Arms), 
7  M.  to  the  y.,  with  an  ivy-clad  church.  Woburn  Abbey,  the  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Bedford,  built  in"  1747  on  the  site  of  a  Cistercian  abbey,  con- 
tains a  good  collection  of  art  (Frid. ,  10-4,  by  order  obtained  at  the  Park 
Farm  office).  The  large  deer-park  and  pleasure-grounds  are  also  very  fine. 

47  M.  Bletchley  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of  lines  to 
Oxford  (p.  224)  on  the  left,  and  to  Bedford  (p.  362)  and  Cam- 
bridge (p.  440)  on  the  right.  Woburn  (see  above]  is  about  5  M.  to 
the  E.  of  Bletchley.  —  52  M.  Wolverton  (Victoria ;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  on  the  Ouse ,  with  the  carriage  -  building  works  of  the 
L.  N.  W.R.,  employing  over  2000  hands,  is  the  junction  for  (4  M.) 
Newport  Pagnell  (Anchor;  Swan),  a  small  lace  and  paper-making 
town,  with  a  large  church.  A  steam-tramway  runs  from  Wolverton 
to  (2M.)  Stoney  Stratford  and  Deanshanger.  The  train  then  crosses 
WolvertoTi  Viaduct  and  enters  the  well -wooded  county  of  North- 
ampton. At  (60  M.)  i?oade  the  line  forks,  the  trunk-line  running 
straight  to  Rugby,  while  a  loop-line  runs  to  the  right  via  North- 
ampton, rejoining  the  main  line  just  before  Rugby. 

The  first  station  on  the  main  line  beyond  Roade  is  (63  M.) 
Blisworth  (Hotel),  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Towcester  and  Strat- 
ford-on-Avon  (comp.  p.  242) ,  of  another  to  Banbury  (p.  242), 
and  of  a  short  one  to  Northampton  (p.  255).  Beyond  Blisworth 
the  train  crosses  the  Grand  Junction  Canal,  and  soon  after  threads  a 


to  Birmingham.  NORTHAMPTON.  37.  Route.     255 

tunnel  500  yds.  long.  70  M.  Weedon,  with  extensive  barracks,  a 
powder-magazine,  and  a  large  military  depot,  is  the  junction  of  a 
line  to  Daventry.  The  line  here  follows  the  direction  of  the  old 
Roman  road  known  as  Watling  Street.  Beyond  (76  M.J  Welton  is 
the  Kilsby  Tunnel,  1^  3  M.  long,  on  emerging  from  which  the  line 
enters  Warwickshire  and  is  rejoined  by  the  loop-line  above  mention- 
ed,   Rugby  (see  p.  256)  is  reached  almost  Immediately  afterwards. 


Leaving  Roade  (see  p.  254)  by  the  loop-line,  we  pass  through 
a  cutting  and  a  short  tunnel  and  soon  reach  — 

66  M.  Northampton.  —  Hotels.  Geobge,  George  Rowj  Peacock, 
in  the  Market  Place;  Gband,  Gold  St.  •■,  Angel,  Plough,  Bridge  St.  —  RaiU 
Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Cabs.  From  the  railway -stations  into  the  town,  with  luggage, 
1-2  pers.  I5..  3  pers.  \s.  6<f.,  4'pers.  2i.;  beyond  the  borough,  Is.  per  mile. 

Railway  Stations.  Castle  Station,  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  town,  for 
the  L.  N.  W.  trains:  Bridge  St.  Station  (L.  K.  W.),  for  trains  to  Peter- 
borough; Midland,    near  the  centre  of  the  town,   for  trains  to  Bedford. 

Northampton,  the  capital  of  the  shire  of  that  name ,  is  a  well- 
built  town  with  70,872  inhab.,  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Nene, 
and  widely  known  for  its  manufactures  of  boots  and  shoes.  It  is 
a  place  of  considerable  antiquity,  and  was  the  seat  of  numerous  par- 
liaments in  the  12th,  13th,  and  14th  centuries.  In  1460  the  Lan- 
castrians were  defeated  near  Northampton ,  and  Henry  YI.  taken 
prisoner  by  the  Earl  of  Warwick. 

The  busiest  parts  of  Northampton  are  the  Drapery  and  the  large 
Market  Square.  Among  the  buildings  adjoining  the  latter  are  the 
Gothic  Town  Hall,  begun  in  1861  and  enlarged  in  1889,  containing 
a  statue,  by  Chantrey,  of  Spencer  Perceval,  who  was  assassinated 
in  the  lobby  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  1812;  the  Corn  Ex- 
change; and  the  church  oi  All  Saints,  with  a  tower  of  the  14th 
cent.  St.  Peter  s  Church,  restored  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott,  is  an  inter- 
esting Norman  structure  (p.  xxxix).  The  remains  of  the  old  Castle, 
built  in  the  11th  cent.,  are  scanty.  The  Castle  Hill  Chapel  con- 
tains a  tablet  to  Dr.  Doddridge,  the  Nonconformist  theologian,  who 
ministered  here  for  22  years.  The  old  Hospital  of  St.  John  (founded 
1138),  in  Bridge  St.,  also  deserves  attention.  In  Abington  St.  are 
the  Post  Office  and  the  large  modern  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Notre 
Dame;  in  Abington  Square  is  a  terracotta  statue  of  Charles  Brad- 
laugh  (1833-90),  M.  P.  for  Northampton  1880-90. 

The  most  interesting  building  in  Northampton  is,  however,  the 
"^Church  of  St.  Sepulchre,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Simon  de 
Liz  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  one  of  the  few  round 
churches  of  England  (comp.  pp.  446,  451).  This  church,  which 
lies  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  contains  numerous  E.E.  additions,  in- 
cluding a  tine  spire,  and  has  been  restored  by  Scott. 

About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Northampton  is  -Queen  Eleanor's  Cross,  the 
best  survivor  of  those  which  Edward  1.  erected  at  every  point  where  the 
body  of  his  wife  rested   on   its  wav   to    interment    in  Westminster.      Not 


256     Route  37.  RUGBY.  From  London 

far  off  is  Delaprh  Abbet/,  on  the  site  of  an  old  Cluniac  religious  house.  — 
Althorp,  the  seat  of  Earl  Spencer,  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Northampton, 
contains  some  good  pictures  (fine  family-portraits  hy  Reunolds,  Van  Dyck, 
Eneller,  Leli/,  etc.)-,  the  famous  library  is  now  in  Manchester  (p.  342).  Near 
Althorp  is  ffarleston,  an  interesting  experiment  in  co-operative  farming.  — 
Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  EarVs  Barton  and  Castle  Ashby  (see  below). 

From  Northampton  to  Market Harborodgh,  18M.,  railway  in  1/2-^/4 hr. 
(fares  2s.  9d.,  U.  lOd.,  is.  b^jid.].  The  kennels  of  the  celebrated  Pytchley 
Hunt  are  at  (8  M.)  Brixworth.^  which  possesses  a  large  church,  perhaps  formed 
out  of  a  Roman  building  (p.  xxxv).  —  18  M.  Market  Harborough.  see  p.  361. 

From  Northampton  to  Peterborough,  42  M.,  railwav  in  lV4-l'/2  hr, 
(fares  7s.,  4«.  6d.,  3s.  7V-.'d.).  —  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  (8  Mi)  Ashby  is  Castle 
Ashby.,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Northampton,  the  gardens  of  which  are 
open  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.  (house  on  Tues.).  Yardley  Chase.,  the  park  be- 
longing to  it,  has  a  circumference  of  7  M.  Ashby  is  also  the  station  for 
il^li  M.)  EarVs  Barton,  famous  for  its  church  with  a  pre-Norman  tower 
(p.  xxxvi).  WMston,  near  Ashby,  has  an  interesting  church  (see  p.  lii). 
— 12  M.  Wellingborough,  see  p.  361.  —  I6V2  M.  Higham  Ferrers  (Green  Dragon), 
1  M.  from  the  station,  was  the  birthplace  of  Abp.  Chichele  (1362-1448)  and 
contains  a  handsome  church,  a  school,  a  college,  and  other  buildings  erected 
by  him.  —  22  M.  Thrapston.  the  junction  of  lines  to  Huntingdon  and  Kettering 
(p".361).  —  3UV2  M.  Oundle  (Talbot),  a  small  town  on  the  Ifene.  with  an  E.E., 
Dec,  and  Perp.  church.  At  Fotheringay.  3V2  M.  to  the  N.,  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  was  tried  and  executed.  The  castle  was  destroyed  by  James  I.,  but 
the  interesting  Perp.  church  remains.  Warmington,  2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of 
Fotheringay,  has  a  good  E.E.  church  (p.  xlv).  From  (37  M.)  Wansford  a 
branch  runs  to  Stamford  (p.  369).  —  431/2  M.  /'eier6oro?{(//i,  see  p.  369. 

From  Northampton  to  Bedford.,  see  p.  363. 

Beyond  Northampton  the  Rugby  train  passes  stat.  Althorp  Park 
(see  above).  To  the  left  is  Great  Brington  Church.,  containing  some 
brasses  of  the  Washington  family  (comp.  p.  242).  Beyond  Kilsby 
we  rejoin  the  main  line  (comp.  p.  255). 


83  M.  Bugby  {Royal  George;  Horseshoes ;  Laurence  Sheriffe's; 
Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms;  cab  to  the  town,  1-2  pers.  Is.,  each  addit. 
pers.  Bd.),  a  town  with  11,262  inhab.,  1  M.  from  the  station,  is  an 
important  railway-junction  (the  'Mugby  Junction'  of  Dickens).  It 
appears  in  Domesday  Book  as  'Rocheberrle'  and  in  Elizabeth's 
time  as  'Rokebie'.  The  famous  School,  founded  by  Laurence  Sheriffe 
in  1567,  and  provided  with  endowments  which  now  bring  in  7000/.  a 
year,  is  attended  by  60  foundationers  and  350-400  other  boys.  Dr. 
Thomas  Arnold  was  head -master  here  from  1828  to  1842  and  is 
buried  in  the  chapel.  The  scene  of  'Tom  Brown's  School  Days'  is 
laid  at  Rugby.  St.  Andrew's  is  a  14th  cent,  building,  restored  by 
Mr.  Butterfleld.  Rugby  is  a  good  hunting-centre.  —  About  I'/oM. 
to  the  E.  of  Rugby  is  Bilton  Hall,  where  Addison  long  resided. 

From  Rugby  to  Leajiington,  15  M.,  railway  in  1/2  br.  (fares  2s.  6d., 
Is.  Id.,  is.  Sd.).    Leamington,  and  thence  to   Warwick,  see  p.  243. 

From  Rugby  to  Nuneaton  and  Stafford,  see  E.  45a.  This  line  forms 
part  of  the  through-route  of  the  L.N.W.R.  from  London  to  Liverpool. 

From  Rugby  to  Market  Harborough,  17'/2  M.,  railway  in  V2-l'4  hr. 
(fares  3s.  2d.,  Is.  lOd.,  Is.  51/2^-).  —  About  4  M.  to  the  E.  of  stat.  Yelvertoft 
is  the  field  of  Nasehy,  where  Charles  I.  was  defeated  bv  Cromwell  in  1645. 
—  171/2  M.  Market  Harborough,  see  p.  361. 

From  Rugby  to  Leicester,  20  M.,  railwav  in  3/4  hr.  (fares  2«.  8d., 
1*.  8d.J.    8  M.   miesthorpe.    About  3  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  Lutterworth,   where 


to  Birmingham.  COVENTRY.  37,  Route.      257 

Wycliffe  was  rector  from  1375  till  his  death  in  1384;  his  alleged  pulpit 
and  other  relics  are  preserved  in  the  church.  A  commemorative  Ohel'sk 
to  Wycliffe  was  erected  near  the  church  in  1897.  —  12  M.  Wigslon,  see 
p.  361.  —  20  M.  Leicester,  see  p.  358. 

At  Rugby  our  line  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  through- 
loute  of  the  North  Western  Railway  from  London  to  Liverpool  (^see 
R.  45a).  After  passing  (^89  M.)  Brandon  ^^  Wolston.,  we  soon  see 
the  three  graceful  spires  of  Coventry. 

94  M.  Coventry  ('C^ueen's;  King's  Head;  Craven  Arms).^  an  an- 
cient city,  with  54,740  inhab.  in  1891.  has  grown  rapidly  during 
the  last  few  years  in  consequence  of  the  enormous  expansion  of  the 
cycle-manufacturing  industry,  of  which  it  is  the  headquarters.  It 
also  possesses  manufactories  of  ribbons,  dress-trimmings,  coach- 
lace,  and  watches,  and  is  famous  for  its  artistic  work  in  metal. 

A  religious  house  of  some  kind  seems  to  have  existed  at  Coventry  in 
the  time  of  Canute.  According  to  the  well-known  legend  (versified  by 
Tennyson),  Coventry  received  its  municipal  independence  in  the  11th  cent, 
from  Leofric,  Earl  of  Mercia,  through  the  self-sacrifice  of  his  wife,  Lady 
Godiva  ('I,  Lurichi,  for  the  love  of  thee,  doe  make  Coventre  tol-free'). 
Her  memory  is  kept  green  by  a  periodical  procession  and  by  a  statue  in 
St.  Mary's  Hall  (see  below),  while  'Peeping  Tom"  is  pilloried  in  a  bust  at 
the  corner  of  Hertford  Street.  Coventry  was  for  a  time  (1102-85)  a  bishop's 
see,  the  beautiful  cathedral-church  of  which  was  destroy«d  by  Henry  VIII. 
The  'Parliamentum  Indoctorum'  (1401)  and  the  'Parliamentum  Diaboli- 
cum'  (14.58)  were  held  at  Coventry.  The  'Coventry  Plays"  are  a  valuable 
collection  of  miracle-plays  and  mysteries  performed  here  in  olden  times. 
The  phrase  'to  send  to  Coventry''  has  never  been  quite  sati.'?factorily  ex- 
plained. No  reminder  is  needed  of  the  march  through  Coventry  of  Fal- 
staflF  and  his  ragged  regiment. 

Coventry  contains  much  to  interest  the  student  of  architecture 
and  archaeology.  Many  of  the  narrow  old  streets,  which  reminded 
Hawthorne  of  Boston,  contain  picturesque  houses  with  the  upper 
stories  jutting  over  the  street.  —  *'S'^  MichaeVs  Church,  an  edifice 
of  red  sandstone,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Cross  Cheaping,  is  a  noble 
specimen  of  the  Perp.  style,  with  a  spire,  312  ft.  high,  considered 
one  of  the  finest  in  Europe.  This  church,  restored  in  1890  at  a  cost 
of  43,000^.,  now  claims  to  be  the  largest  parish-church  in  England 
(comp.  p.  457).  The  interior  is  adorned  with  numerous  stained- 
glass  windows,  most  of  which  are  modern.  —  Trinity  or  the  Priory 
Churchy  adjoining,  another  fine  Perp.  structure,  also  has  a  lofty 
spire  (237  ft.).  It  contains  an  interesting  stone  pulpit  of  the  15th 
cent,  and  a  curious  old  fresco.  —  The  third  of  the  'three  tall  spires' 
of  Coventry  is  that  of  the  old  (^rey  Friars  Monastery,  to  which  the 
modern  Christchurch  has  been  attached.  —  The  Church  of  St.  John, 
on  the  AV.  side  of  the  town ,  is  an  interesting  14th  cent,  building, 
restored. 

*St.  Marys  Ouildhall^  to  the  S.  of  St.  Michael's,  is  a  singularly 
interesting  specimen  of  English  municipal  architecture  in  the 
middle  ages  (14-15th  cent.).  The  great  Hall  (with  its  oaken  roof 
and  tapestry),  the  Mayoress's  Parlour,  and  the  Kitchen  are  among 
the  most  noteworthy  rooms.  —  Near  St.  John's  is  Bablake  Hospital, 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  17 


258     Route  37.  BIRMINGHAM.  Hotels. 

and  in  Grey  Friars  Lane  is  Ford's  Hospital^  two  interesting  examples 
of  the  domestic  style  of  the  16th  century.  —  Near  the  station  is  a 
statue  of  Sir  Thomas  White. 

In  the  FolesMll  road,  to  the  N.  of  Coventry,  is  the  house  in  which 
George  Eliot  [Mary  Anne  Evans;  1820-80)  lived  with  her  father  before 
his  death;  and  Rosehill,  where  she  frequently  visited  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  Bray, 
is  also  close  to  the  town.  Arhury  Farm,  where  she  was  born,  and  Griffs 
where  she  spent  the  first  twenty  years  of  her  life,  are  between  Coventry 
and  Xuneaton.  —  The  Coventry  Canal  connects  Coventry  with  Oxford  on 
the  one  side,  and  with  the  Mersey  and  Trent  on  the  other. 

Among  the  interesting  points  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Coventry  are 
Whitley  Abbey,  IV2  M.  to  the  E.;  Stoneleigh  Abbey  (p.  246),  5  M.  to  the  S.; 
Kenilworth  (see  p.  246),  5  M.  to  the  S.W.  (a  beautiful  road);  the  INorman 
church  of  Wyken,  3^/2  M.  to  the  X.E.;  and  Combe  Abbey,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Craven,  4  M.  to  the  E.,  where  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  James  I.,  spent 
part  of  her  girlhood,  and  to  which  she  retired  after  the  death  of  her  hus- 
band, the  Elector  Frederick  (King  of  Bohemia). 

From  Coventry  to  Leamington  and   Warwick,  see  p.  243. 

Feom  Covestky  to  Noneatox,  9V2  M.,  railway  in  20-30  min.  (fares 
I5.  9d.,  is.,  91, 2C?.)-  The  only  intermediate  station  of  any  note  is  (6V2M.) 
Bedworth,  a  small  town  with  5480  inhab.  At  (91/2  M.)  Nuneaton  (see  p.  356) 
the  line  joins  the  main  route  from  London  to  Liverpool. 

Beyond  Coventry  the  view  is  much  interrupted  by  numerous 
deep  cuttings.  Beyond  (991/2  M.l  BerkswelL  the  church  of  which 
has  a  Norman  crypt,  the  train  crosses  the  Blythe  by  a  fine  viaduct. 
Picturesque  old  bridae  to  the  left.  103  M.  Hampton  Is  the  junction 
of  a  line  to  Tamicorth  (p.  189).  At  (109  M.)  Stechford  the  direct 
line  to  Walsall  (p.  263}  and  Wolverhampton  (p.  264)  diverges  to 
the  right.  Soon  afterwards  the  train  enters  the  spacious  New  St. 
Station  at  (113  M.)  Birmingham. 

Birmingham.  —  Railway  stations.  The  New  Street  Station  (PI. 
D,  3,  4).  'Sew  Street,  is  one  of  the  largest  railway-stations  in  the  world 
(i2V4  acres) ,  with  a  fine  iron  and  glass  roof,  over  1100  ft.  long,  and 
good  refreshment-rooms.  It  is  used  by  the  L.N.W.  trains  for  London 
(via  Coventry  and  Rugby),  to  Staflord,  Crewe,  Liverpool,  and  the  Xorth, 
to  Wolverhampton,  Lichfield,  Derby,  etc.,  and  also  for  the  Midland  trains 
to  London  (via  Leicester),  Sheffield,  Derbv,  Worcester,  Gloucester,  Bath, 
Bristol,  etc.  —  The  Snow  Hill  Station  (PI.  F,  1)  of  the  G.  W.  Railway,  also 
with  good  refreshment-rooms,  lies  about  Vs  M.  to  the  N.,  and  serves  for 
trains  to  London  (via  Warwick  and  Oxford),  Worcester,  Malvern,  and 
South  Wales.  —  There  are  also  several  suburban  stations. 

Hotels.  'QuEExs  (PI.  a;  D,  4),  at  the  Xew  St.  Station;  Geeat 
Western  (PI.  b;  F,  2),  at  Snow  Hill  Station,  R.  &  A.  5s.,  D.  5s.;  Gkaxd 
(PI.  c;  E,  2),  Colmore  Row,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d. ,  B.  2s.,  D.  3s.;  *Plough 
(fc  Harbow,  135  Hagley  Road,  old-fashioned,  moderate;  Colonnade  (PI.  f; 
D,  3),  Xew  St.;  Cobden  (PI.  d;  E,  3),  corner  of  Corporation  St.  and  Cherry 
St.,  a  large  temperance  house,  R.  a:  A.  2s.  6c?.  'ordinary'  at  1.15  p.m.  2s.; 
Midland  (PI.  e;  D,3),  New  St.,  commercial,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.;  Stork  (PI.  g; 
F,3),  Corporation  St.;  White  Horse  (PI.  i;  C,  1),  corner  of  Congreve  St. 
and  Great  Charles  St.,  unpretending;  Swan  (PI.  h;  E,  4),  corner  of  'Sew 
St.  and  High  St.,  commercial:  Acorn,  Temple  St.  (PL  D,  3),  small. 

Restaurants.  Birmingham  Restaurant.  101  Xew  St.  (PI.  D,  3,  E,  4); 
Lissiter  <f  Miller.  20  Bennett's  Hill  (PI.  D,  2,  3) :  Bryan,  62  Xew  St. ;  Pat- 
tison,  7  iSew  St.  and  54  High  St. ;  A'ocA-,  Union  Passage;  Garden  Restaurant, 
with  vegetarian  dinners.  25  Paradise  St.  (PL  C,  2);  Arcadian,  18  Xorth 
West  Arcade  (PI.  F,  3),  Corporation  8t.  (fish-dinners):  Refreshment  Rooms. 
at  the  Central   and  Snow  Hill  Stations:  also   at  most  of  the  hotels. 

Cabs.  For  1-2  pers.,  IV2  3L,  Is.;  per  hour  2s.  6c?.,  each  addit.  V*  hr. 
6c?.     Double  fare  12-6  a.m.    For  each  package  carried  outside,  2c?. 


History.  BIRMINGHAM.  37.  Route.     259 

Tramways.  Steam  Tramways,  Horse  Tramways,  and  Omnibuses  tra- 
verse most  of  the  principal  streets  and  ply  fo  points  in  the  environs.  The 
chief  starting-points  are  Old  Square  (P\.  F,  3),  John  Bright  Street  (PI.  C,  3), 
Albert  Street  (PI.  F,  4),  and  Suffolk  Street  (PI.  B,  4).  —  A  Cable  Tramway 
runs  from  Colmore  Row  to  New  Inn.  —  Electric  Tramway  from  Wellington 
Road  to  Bournhrook.  —  Fares  l-6d. 

Coaches  generally  ply  in  summer  to  Berkswell  (p.  263)  and  other 
places  of  local  interest,  starting  from  the  Grand  Hotel  (p.  258j. 

Theatres.  Theatre  Royal  (PI.  D,  3),  New  St. ;  Prince  of  Wales  (PI.  A, 
IJ,  Broad  St.;  Grand  (PI.  G,  3),  Corporation  St.;  Queen's  (PI.  F,  1),  Snow 
Hill.  —  Gaiety  Concert  Hall,  Coleshill  St.;  Day's  Music  Hall,  Smallbrook 
St.  (PI.  C,  5);  Canterbury  Music  Hall,  Digbeth  (PI.  E,  5). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  C,  2),  opposite  the  Town  Hall;  numer- 
ous branch-offices  and  pillar  letter-boxes. 

United  States  Consul,  George  F.  Parker,  Esq.,  16a  Corporation  St.; 
vice-consul,  F.  M.  Burton,  Esq. 

Public  Baths,  all  with  first  and  second  class  swimming-baths  and 
hot  and  cold  private  balhs:  Kent  Street  Baths,  with  Turkish  and  vapour 
baths;  Woodcock  Street  Baths;  Monument  Road  Baths,  with  Turkish  and 
vapour  baths:  Northwood  Street  Baths.  Turkish  bath  !«.,  lirst-class  swim- 
ming or  warm  bath  6d..  second-class  3d.  —  There  are  also  Turkish  and 
Warm  Baths  in  Broad  St.,  High  St.,  and  the  Crescent. 

Birmingham  (450  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  fourth  town  of  England 
in  size  and  population,  and  the  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop, 
stands  on  a  series  of  gentle  hills  in  theN.W.  corner  of  Warwickshire. 
At  the  census  of  1891  it  contained  478,000  inhab.  In  plan  it  is 
irregular,  and  many  of  its  older  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked; 
but  much  has  been  done  to  improve  it  within  the  last  20-30  years. 
It  is  the  chief  centre  in  England,  if  not  in  the  world,  of  the  ma- 
nufacture of  brass,  iron,  and  other  metallic  wares  of  all  kinds,  and 
it  is  the  most  important  industrial  town  in  England  after  Man- 
chester. In  spite  of  its  numerous  tall  chimneys  and  often  smoky 
atmosphere,  Birmingham  has  the  reputation  of  being  healthier  than 
most  large  manufacturing  towns. 

In  the  social  and  political  sphere  Birmingham  has  always,  with  the 
exception  of  the  unhappy  lapse  of  1791  (p.  261),  been  distinguished  as  a 
centre  of  liberality  and  freedom  of  thought.  It  claims  to  be  'the  most 
open  and  hospitable  to  ideas,  to  be  regarded  as  the  most  fully  developed 
example  of  the  English  city  of  the  future  —  in  a  word  as  the  city 
wherein  the  spirit  of  the  new  time  is  most  widely,  variously,  energeti- 
cally assuming  visible  form  and  shape'  (Macdonald).  ^s'owhere  has  the 
system  of  municipal  government  been  more  fully  developed,  and  nowhere 
has  a  municipality  been  more  distinguished  fur  enlightened  promotion  of 
popular  culture.  Trades  Unions  were  very  powerful  in  Birmingham  and 
managed  to  a  great  extent  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  machinery.  Hence 
'the  manufactures  of  Birmingham  are  to  this  day  in  a  great  degree  con- 
fined to  those  branches  of  industry  which  require  comparatively  a  much 
greater  amount  of  manual  labour  than  machinery'  (Fawcett).  About  200 
separate  trades  are  carried  on  by  its  'small  masters". 

The  early  history  of  Birmingham  is  very  shadowy,  but  it  is  not  im- 
probaltle  that  it  occupies  the  site  of  a  small  Roman  station  on  the  Ick- 
nield  Street  (p.  355).  The  name,  which  appears  in  Domesday  Book  as 
'Bermingeham',  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  'Berm"  or  'Beorm',  the  name 
of  some  Saxon  tribe.  During  the  middle  ages  it  appears  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  De  Berminghams,  whose  connection  with  it  ceases  in  1545. 
In  1538  it  is  described  by  Leland  as  a  good  market  town  with  many 
smiths  'that  use  to  make  knives  and  all  mannour  of  cuttinge  tooles  and 
many  loriners  that  make  bittes  and  a  great  many  naylors'.    In  1643  Bir- 

17* 


260     Route  37.  BIRMINGHAM.  St.  Martins. 

mingham  was  taken  and  partly  burned  by  Prince  Rupert.  Under  Charles  11. 
it  advanced  rapidly,  and  its  manufactures  of  firearms  became  considerable. 
Birmingham  owes  its  modern  importance  chiefly  to  the  improvements  in 
steam-machinery  carried  out  here  by  Watt  and  Boulton  at  the  end  of 
last  century,  and  to  the  use  it  was  thus  enabled  to  make  of  the  adjacent 
fields  of  coal  and  iron.  In  ITUO  it  contained  onlv  15,000  inhab.;  in  1801, 
73,670:  in  1841,  182,892:,  and  in  1881,  400,774.'  Its  main  interest  to 
tourists  is  centred  in  a  visit  to  some  of  its  large  industrial  establish- 
ments, most  of  which  are  willingly  shown  on  previous  application, 
especially  to  anyone  provided  with  an  introduction.  The  industries 
of  Birmingham  employ  in  all  about  100,00(J  work-people  and  produce 
goods  to  the  annual  value  of  4  or  5  millions  sterling.  About  10,000  are 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  guns  and  rifles,  producing  upwards  of 
600,000  gun-barrels  yearly.  Ko  fewer  than  4  million  military  rifles  were 
proved  here  in  1855-64  (including  the  period  of  the  Crimean  War),  and  770,000 
guns  were  sent  from  Birmingham  to  the  United  States  during  the  Civil 
War.  Among  the  most  interesting  manufactories  are  the  steel-pen 
works  of  Gillott  &  Son,  Graham  St..  and  those  of  Messrs.  Perry,  36  Lan- 
caster St.-,  the  'Regent  Works'  of  Manton,  Shakespeare,  <fc  Co.,  Clissold 
St.,  for  making  buttons  :  the  electro-plate  manufactory  of  Elkington  (fc  Co. 
^^ewhall  St.  (PI.  B,  1);  the  glass  and  crystal  works"  of  Osier.  Broad  St. 
(PI.  A,  1)  •,  the  lighthouse  lens  and  plate-glass  works  of  Chance  Brothers 
&  Co..  Smethwick;  Hardman's  stained-glass  works  in  isewhall  Hill;  the 
Gun-Barrel  Proof-House,  Banbury  St.;  the  bronze-foundry  and  art  metal- 
works  of  Winfield  &  Co.,  Cambridge  St.  (PI.  B,  1) :  the  papermachee  works 
of  McCallum  &  Hodson,  Summer  Row  (PI.  C,  1);  and  the  Birmingham 
Small  Arms  Factory  at  Smallheath.  Other  important  branches  of  industry 
are  the  rolling  and  stamping  of  iron  and  other  metals,  the  manufacture 
of  iron  roofs  and  girders,  the  making  of  steam-engines,  machinery,  tools, 
bolts,  screws,  rivets,  wire  pins,  and  small  steel  goods  of  all  descriptions, 
jewellery,  and  the  production  of  chemicals.  At  Heatons  Mint  and  Metal 
Works,  "in  Icknield  St.,  a  great  part  of  the  bronze  and  copper  money  of 
England  and  many  other  countries  is  coined.  The  same  firm  manufac- 
tures seamless  copper  tubes.  —  A  lively  account  of  Birmingham  and  its 
industries   is  given  in  Elihu  Buvrit's  'Walks  in  the  Black  Country'. 

The  only  public  building  in  Birmingham  that  has  any  claim  to 
antiquity  is  the  *Chnrch.  of  St.  Martin  (PI. E, 5),  an  imposing  Dec. 
edifice,  in  the  Bull  Ring,  originally  dating  from  the  13th  cent  , 
but  rebuilt  in  1873.  It  contains  the  tombs  of  some  of  the  De  Ber- 
minghams ,  the  original  lords  of  the  manor  (see  p.  259).  The 
interior  contains  a  fine  stained-glass  window  by  Sir  Edward  Burne- 
Jones,  a  native  of  Birmingham.  In  the  Bull  Ring,  to  the  N.  of  the 
church,  is  a  monument  to  Nelson. 

From  St.  Martin's  the  High  St.  leads  to  the  N.,  passing  the  large 
Market  Hall  on  the  left.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  diverges  New  Street 
(PI.  E,  4,  D.  3),  the  principal  business -street  of  the  town,  with 
most  of  the  best  shops.  In  it,  immediately  to  the  left,  is  the 
handsome  modern  Tudor  building,  by  Barry,  in  which  the  Grammar 
School  (PI.  E,  4),  founded  by  Edward  VI.  in  1552.  is  now  installed. 
Its  endowments  jdeld  upwards  of  26,000i.  yearly,  and  several 
branch-schools  both  for  boys  and  for  girls  have  been  opened.  Ad- 
jacent, also  to  the  left,  is  the  Exchange,  at  the  corner  of  Stephenson 
Place,  a  short  street  leading  to  the  New  St.  Station  (p.  258).  Oppo- 
site diverges  Corporation  St.  (p.  262).  New  Street,  farther  on, 
passes  the  Theatre  Roxjal  (p.  259)  .  the  Colonnade  Hotel  (p.  258), 
the  Masonic  Hall,  and  the  Society  of  Artists  (right),  and  beside  the 


Town  Hall.  BIRMINGHAM.  37.  Route.     261 

new  Post  Office  (left),  -whicli  contains  a  statue  of  Sir  Rowland  Hill, 
ends  in  an  open  space  (PI.  C,  2),  round  "wliicli  are  grouped  the  most 
handsome  modern  buildings  in  Birmingham.  Immediately  oppo- 
site the  end  of  New  St.  is  the  — 

*Town  Hall  (PI.  C,  2),  a  large  and  imposing  building  in  the 
Corinthian  style ,  erected  in  1832-50  in  imitation  of  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Stator  at  Rome,  and  somewhat  recalling  the  Madeleine  at 
Paris  and  Girard  College  at  Philadelphia,  which  were  built  after 
the  same  model.  It  stands  on  a  rusticated  basement,  22  ft.  high, 
pierced  with  round-headed  arches.  The  large  hall  in  the  interior, 
145  ft.  long,  contains  a  fine  organ  with  4000  pipes  and  four  man- 
uals. A  recital  is  usually  given  on  Sat.,  at  3  p.m.  (adm.  3d.).  The 
Triennial  Musical  Festival  has  been  held  here  since  1768.  —  To 
the  W.  of  the  Town  Hall  is  the  Birmingham  and  Midland  Institute, 
in  the  Italian  style,  containing  lecture  and  reading  rooms,  and  na- 
tural history  and  industrial  collections.  The  metallurgical  school 
is  especially  important,  and  the  penny  lectures  are  a  characteristic 
feature.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Central  Free  Library^  -which  contains 
161.000  vols.,  including  a  splendid  collection  of  Shakespearian 
boolis  (9640  vols.~).  (Birmingham  has  also  nine  branch-libraries, 
with  61,500  vols.)  In  Paradise  Street,  opposite  the  Town  Hall,  is 
the  Inland  Revenue  Office,  beyond  which,  to  the  W.,  is  Queen  s 
College,  a  school  of  medicine  and  theology. 

The  imposing  edifice  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Town  Hall,  at  the  end 
of  Colmore  Row,  is  the  Council  House,  in  the  Grecian  style, 
completed  in  1878  at  a  cost  of  250,000L  There  is  a  fine  mosaic 
by  Salviati  above  the  entrance.  The  back  part  of  this  pile  (entr. 
from  the  side)  contains  the  Corporation  Art  Gallery  and  Museum 
(open  free;  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Sat.  10-9,  Sun.  2-5,  Wed. 
and  Frid.  10-4  in  winter  and  10-6  in  summer),  among  the  chief 
contents  of  which  are  a  series  of  paintings  by  David  Cox  (1783- 
1859  ;  a  native  of  Birmingham),  some  fine  paintings  of  the  Eng- 
lish pre-Raphaelite  school,  a  large  collection  of  weapons,  and  a 
collection  of  Wedgwood  ware. 

The  small  square  at  the  back  of  the  Town  Hall  is  embelli  hed  wilh 
a  Monumental  Fountain,  erectei  in  honnur  of  the  Right  Hon.  Joseph  Cham- 
berlain, and  statues  of  George  Dawson  (d.  1S76),  the  essayist  and  lecturer, 
and  Sir  Josiah  Mason  (see  below).  In  Katcliff  Place  is  a  statue  of  James 
Watt  CPl.  C,  2;  d.  1819),  and  at  the  end  of  New  St.  one  of  Sir  Robert  Peel 
(d.  1850).  In  front  of  the  Council  House  is  a  statue  of  Joseph  Priestley 
(1733-1804),  the  theologian  and  chomist,  who  was  pastor  of  a  Unitarian 
Church  in  Birmin-ham  for  some  years.  In  the  'Church  and  King  Riot' 
of  1791  his  hou^e,  containinj;  his  valuable  apparatus  and  MSS.,  was  burned 
down  and  he  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life. 

In  Edmund  St..  on  the  N.  side  of  the  small  square  just  men- 
tioned, is  the  Mason  College  (PI.  C,  1,  2),  a  tasteful  red  brick 
edifice,  built  by  Sir  Josiah  Mason  in  1875-80  at  a  cost  of  60,000^ 
and  endowed  by  him  with  140. 000^  more.  It  is  now  attended  by 
500-600  students,  and  is  completely  equipped  with  Faculties  of 


262     Route  37.  BIRMINGHAM. 

Arts  and  Science,  a  series  of  excellent  laboratories,  and  a  library 
of  18,000  vols.  In  the  same  street,  farther  to  the  E..  at  the  cornet 
of  Margaret  St..  is  the  School  of  Art  (Pl.D,  1).  built  in  1884-85,  and 
the  first  municipal  school  of  art  in  England.  —  The  Municipal 
Technical  School,  in  Suffolk  St.,  built  in  1896  at  a  cost  of  100,000^., 
is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  England. 

CoLMORB  Row  (PI.  D,  E,  2),  which  leads  to  the  E.  from  the 
Town  Hall  to  Snow  Hill,  with  the  Great  Western  Hotel  and  Station, 
is  perhaps  the  best-built  street  in  the  town.  It  contains  numerous 
substantial  insurance-offices  and  banks,  the  Union  Club,  and  the 
Grand  Hotel  (p.  258).  —  To  the  S.  of  it,  in  a  small  open  space,  is 
St.  Philip's  (PI.  E.  2),  a  church  of  the  Queen  Anne  period,  occu- 
pying the  highest  ground  in  Birmingham.  One  of  the  stained 
glass  windows  is  by  Burne-Jones  (p.  260).  In  the  churchyard  is  an 
obelisk  in  memory  of  Col.  Burnaby  (1842-83),  erected  in  1885. 

Another  handsome  modern  thoroughfare  is  Corporation  Strbbt 
(PI.  E,  F,  G,  3),  which  contains  the  New  Grand  Theatre  (PI.  G,  3), 
and  the  Victoria  Law  Courts  (PI.  G,  2),  opened  in  1891.  On  the  Stork 
Hotel  (PI.  g;  F,  3)  is  a  tablet  commemorating  a  visit  of  Dr.  Johnson 
to  his  friend  Hector.  The  Rom.  Cath.  "^Cathedral  of  St.  Chad  (PI.  F,  1), 
in  Bath  St.,  is  a  good  specimen  of  Pugin"s  work  and  is  in  the  Dec. 
style.  It  contains  an  oaken  pulpit  of  the  16th  cent.,  from  Louvain, 
and  stalls,  throne,  and  lectern  of  the  15th  cent.,  from  St.  Maria  in 
Capitolio  at  Cologne.  — The  Oratory  of  St.  Pldlip  Neri,  Hagley  Road, 
was  the  home  of  Card.  Newman;  the  church  is  Italian  in  style. 

Among  the  numerous  valuable  private  collections  in  Birmingham,  per- 
haps the  most  generally  interesting  is  the  *Dickens  Collection  of  Mr.  W. 
R.  Hughes.  City  Treasurer,  numbering  more  than  3000  items,  including 
all  the  original  editions,  extra  illustrations,  portraits,  biographies,  criti- 
cisms, books  from  Dickens's  library,  letters,  autographs,  prints,  proof- 
sheets,  etc.  Mr.  Hughes  also  possesses  George  Eliot  and  Herbert  Spencer 
collections. 

Birmingham  possesses  nine  public  parks ,  the  largest  of  which  are 
Cannon  Hill  Park  to  the  S.,  ^Yesl  Smethwick  Park  to  the  X.W.,  Victoria 
Park  to  the  S.W.,  and  Aston  Park  to  the  N.E.  A  chief  attraction  of  the 
last  is  *Aston  Hall  (open  from  10,  on  Sun  from  2,  to  dusk),  a  fine  old 
Jacobean  mansion,  now  containing  collections  of  various  kinds.  The  Aston 
Lower  Grounds  contain  an  aquarium,  a  large  assembly-hall,  running  tracks, 
gardens,  etc.  —  The  Botanical  Gardens  Cadm.  6d.,  Mon.  2d.)  are  at  Edg- 
basion,  the  fashionable  west-end  suburb  of  Birmingham,  which  also  con- 
tains a  public  park  with  a  small  lake.  Highgate  Park,  to  the  S.,  commands 
an  excellent  view  of  the  town. 

On  the  N.  Birmingham  is  adjoined  by  the  manufacturing  suburb  of 
Handsworth,  in  which  stood  the  Soho  Works  of  Watt  and  Boulton  (p.  26U), 
dismantled  in  1850.  Large  engine-works,  however,  are  still  carried  on  by 
a  grandson  of  the  former  at  Smeihwick  (farther  to  the  W.),  under  the  style 
of  James  Watt  d-  Co.  Watf  s  house  is  still  standing  at  Heathfield  (tram- 
way) ,  and  contains  the  'classic  garret',  used  by  Watts  as  his  priva'e 
workshop,  with  numerous  interesting  relics.  Both  Watt  and  Boulton  are 
buried  in  the  parish-church  of  Handsworth,  where  they  are  commemorated 
by  monuments  by  Chantrey  and  Flaxman.  —  The  old  Crown  House,  at 
Deritend  (beyond  PL  G,  5),  "is  an  interesting  half-timbered  edifice. 

Environs.  Among  the  most  interesting  points  within  easy  reach  of 
Birmingham    are   (7  M.)    Sutton   Park    (p.    263) ,     reached   by    railway   in 


DUDLEY.  38.  Route.     263 

V2  lir.;  Packwood  House^  with  its  interesting  garden,  near  KnowUi^.  247); 
Berksicell  (p.  259);  ITalesowen  Churchy  with  the  grave  of  the  poet  Shenstone 
(d.  1763)  in  the  churchyard,  and  the  ruins  of  an  abbev;  the  Clent  Hills; 
Dudlei/  Castle,  8V2  M.  to  theN.W.;  Bouvneville,  to  the  W.,  with  the  ex- 
tensive cocoa  and  chocolate  manufactory  of  Cadbury  Brothers :  Tamworth 
Castle,  etc.  —  Longer  excursions  (1-2  hrs.  by  rail)  may  be  made  to  Lich- 
field (see  below),   Warwick,  Straiford-on-Avon,  Kenilworth,  etc. 

From  Birmingham  TO  Lichfield,  16  M,,  L.N.W.  Railway  in  1/2-lhr.  (fares 
3>'.,  I5.  lOd.,  is.  b^lid.).  —  Leaving  Xew  St,  Station  (p.  258)^  the  train  pas-es 
the  suburban  stations  of  Vauxhall  and  (2V2  31  )  Aston  (p.  262).  A  little  to 
the  W.  of  (5  M.)  Erdington  is  the  Oscott  Roman  CathoVc  College,  which 
contains  some  fine  old  paintings.  —  8  M.  Sutton  Coldfield  (Swan),  a  small 
town  with  an  old  church.  Sutton  Park,  famous  for  its  hollies,  is  a  favourite 
resort  of  picnic  parties  from  Birmingham.    —  16  M.  Lichfield,  see  p.  353. 

From  Birmingham  to  Walsall,  8V2  M.,  L.N.W.  Railway  in  1/2  hr.  (fares 
is.  id.,  lie?..  8V2(^.).  —  8V2  M.  Walsall  (George;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms), 
a  town  of  71,7iJ0  inhab.,  containing  large  manufactories  of  saddlers"  iron- 
mongery, and  the  centre  of  an  important  coal-district.  This  was  the  scene 
of  the  labours  of  ^Sister  Dora',  who  is  commemorated  by  a  statue  (1886) 
and  by  a  stained-glass  window  in  the  large  Church  of  St.  Matthew.  —  Wal- 
sall is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Wolverhampton,  Lichfield,  etc. 

From  Birmingham  to  Wolverhampton,  see  R.  33 ;  to  Wa)'wick  and  Oxford 
see  R.  34;  to  Worcester,  see  R.  24;  to  Derby,  see  R.  24. 

38.  From  Birmingham  to  Shrewsbury  via 
Wolverhampton  and  Wellington. 

42  M.  Great  Western  Railway  in  1^/2 -2  hrs.  (fares  Is.,  is.  6rf., 
3s.  6(?.);  to  (121/2  M.)  Wolverhampton  in  3/^  hrs.  (fares  25..  Is.  id.,  is.O^jid.). 
—  Wolverhampton  may  also  be  reached  from  New  St.  Station,  Birmingham, 
by  the  L.X.W.  Railway  (13  M. ;  in  i/j  hr.)  via  OUhury  and  Diidley  Port 
(for  Dudley,  see  below),  and  by  the  Midland  Railway  (23  M.  in  IY4  hr.  ; 
2s.,  Is.  Q^fid)  via  Castle  Bromwich  and   Walsall. 

Leaving  the  Snow  Hill  Station,  the  train  passes  Hockley,  Soho 
(see  p. '262),  Siud Handsworth,  where  a  line  to  Stourbridge  (see  be- 
low) diverges  to  the  left.  —  6  M.  "West  Bromwich  (Dartmouth ; 
Great  Western),  a  busy  iron-manufacturing  town,  with  about  59,489 
inhab.,  possesses  a  large  park,  commanding  a  beautiful  view. — 
7  M.  SicanVillage,vf\th  large  GasWorks,  built  at  a  cost  of  120,000^., 
which  supply  all  the  towns  within  a  radius  of  10  miles. 

P'rom  Swan  Village  to  Dudley,  3V2  M.,  branch-railway  in  i/^  hr.  — 
31/2  M.  Dudley  (Castle:  Dudley  Arms)  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant towns  in  the  'Black  Country',  with  an  extensive  iron-trade,  man- 
ufactures of  anvils  and  vices  ,  and  45,740  inhabitants.  The  picturesque 
ruins  of  "Dudley  Castle,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Dudley,  crown  a  wooded 
hill  rising  above  the  station  and  date  mainly  from  the  16th  cent.;  the 
keep  is  of  the  13th  century.  They  afiford  an  excellent  survey  of  the  great 
coal  and  iron  district  of  England,  including  numerous  large  manufacturing 
towns;  the  view  is  perhaps  most  impressive  by  night,  when  the  flames 
issuing  from  the  chimneys  and  furnaces  envelope  the  scene  in  a  curious 
lurid  glare.  The  caves  below  the  castle,  formed  by  quarrying  for  lime- 
stone, are  interesting  (guide  necessary).  The  Geological  Museum  contains 
specimens  of  the  minerals  of  the  district.  [From  Dudley  a  line  runs  S.  to 
(51/2  M.)  Stourbridge  (Talbot),  a  glass-making  town  with  9,386  inhab.,  and 
(12  M.)  Kidderminster  (Z'on;  Black  Horse),  a  town  of  27,(X)0  inhab.,  famed 
for  its  manufactures  of  Brussels  and  other  carpets.  It  was  the  scene  of  the 
labours  of  Richard  Baxter  (1616-91),  to  whom  a  statue  has  been  erected 
in  the  Bull  Ring.     His  pulpit  is  in  the  vestry  of  the  New  Meeting  H(iuse|. 


264     Route  38.        WOLVERHAMPTON.     From  Birmingham 

8^2  M.  Wednesbury  (Anchor;  Dartmouth  Arms)  is  an  ancient 
town  with  69,000  inhab.  and  large  manufactories  of  railway  axles 
and  tires  and  other  iron  goods.  The  Perp.  Church  contains  some 
good  carving.  —  The  next  stations  are  (iOM.')  Bradley,  (11  M.) 
Bilston  (24,000  inhab.),  and  (12  M.)  Priestfield,  all  busy  places 
with  manufactures  of  iron  and  steel. 

13  M.  Wolverhampton.  —  Hotels.  Star  &  Gaetek,  Victoria  St.; 
Victoria,  Lichfield  St.;  Peacock,  Coach  &  Horses,  Snow  Hill;  Talbot, 
King  St.  —    Rail.  Rfint.  Rooms. 

Cabs.  Per  mile  I5.,  each  addit.  1/2  M.  6d. ;  per  V2  tr.  Is.,  each  addit. 
1/4  hr.  6c?.  —  Tramways  ran  from  Queen  Square,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  to  Tettenhall  (p.  265),  Bilston.,  Willenhall  (every  20  min.) ,  and 
Sedgley.  —  Omnibus  to  Pe««,  five  times  daily. 

Post  Office,  Lichfield  Street. 

Theatre,  at  the  corner  of  Garrick  St.  and  Cleveland  Road.  Theatrical 
performances  are  also  given  in  the  Exchange. 

Railway  Stations.  North  Western  <£•  Midland,  at  the  foot  of  Lichfield 
St.;  Great  Western,  in  Sun  St..  near  the  other.  The  former  station  is 
known  as  the  high-level,  the  latter  as  the  low-level  station. 

U.  S.  Consular  Agent,  John  Neve,  Esq.,  88  Darlington  St. 

Wolverhampton,  the  largest  town  in  Staffordshire,  with  82,620 
inhab.,  derives  its  name  from  Wulfruna,  sister  of  Ethelred  II.,  who 
founded  a  college  here  in  996.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  '■Black  Coun- 
try', an  extensive  coal  and  iron  mining  district,  in  which  vegeta- 
tion is  almost  entirely  replaced  by  heaps  of  slag  and  cinders.  It 
lies,  however,  on  the  verge  of  this  district,  and  the  country  to  the 
N.  and  W.  are  of  the  normal  and  pleasanter  green  hue.  The  special 
manufactures  of  Wolverhampton  are  locks  (370,000  a  week),  tin- 
plate,  and  japanned  goods.  The  well-known  lock-manufactory  of 
the  Messrs.  Chubb  is  open  to  visitors  daily,  except  Sat.,  10-1  and 
2-6.    Wolverhampton  is  also  an  important  agricultural  market. 

The  most  interesting  building  in  Wolverhampton  is  the  vener- 
able *Churcli  of  St.  Peter,  in  Queen  Square,  a  handsome  Gothic 
structure  of  the  13-1 5th  cent.,  occupying  the  site  of  a  church  of  the 
10th  cent,  and  recently  restored.  It  was  formerly  a  collegiate 
establishment.    Bishop  Hall  (d.  1656)  was  one  of  its  prebendaries. 

The  Interior  contains  a  stone  pulpit  of  the  15th  cent.,  an  ancient 
font,  and  several  old  monuments,  including  that  of  Col.  Lane,  who  help- 
ed Charles  II.  to  escape  after  the  battle  of  Worcester  (1651)  and  shared 
his  hiding-place  in  the  royal  oak  at  Boscobel  (p.  265),  and  a  bronze 
statue  of  Admiral  Leveson"  (temp.  Charles  I.),  by  Le  Sueuv.  The  stained- 
glass  windows  are  modern.  —  In  the  Churchyard  is  a  rudely-carved  cross 
or  pillar,  the  origin  of  whichi  is  obscure.  The  Tower  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Black  Country,  the  blazing  furnaces  of  whicll  present 
a  most  weird  spectacle  after  dark. 

The  Town  Hall,  in  North  Street,  is  a  large  and  handsome 
modern  building  in  the  Italian  style,  with  a  Mansard  roof;  the  Free 
Library  and  Exchange  also  deserve  notice.  In  Lichfield  Street 
is  the  Art  Gallery,  containing  the  fine  Cartwright  Collection  of 
Pictures  and  other  objects  of  art.  The  Blue  Coat  School  dates  from 
the  18th  century.  The  Orphan  Asylum  is  a  handsome  Elizabethan 
structure  (250  children).    Near  the  Agricultural  Hall  is  a  Statue  of 


to  Shrewsbury.  SHREWSBURY.  3-9.  Route.     265 

the  RiyM  Hon.  C.  P.  Villiers,  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  anti-corn- 
law  agitation,  who  has  represented  Wolverhampton  in  parliament 
since  1838.  Queen  Square  is  adorned  with  a  bronze  equestrian 
Statue  of  Prince  Albert,  by  Thornycroft.   There  is  also  a  Public  Park. 

The  elder  Edwin  Booth,  the  tragedian,  was  originally  an  artisan 
in  Wolverhampton,  working  in  the  'Old  Hall  Tin  Factory'. 

Environs.  At  Dun  stall  Park,  1  M.  to  theN.,  is  the  race-course.  About 
2  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  on  the  road  to  Shii'nal  (see  below),  is  the  pretty  villatie 
of  Tettenhall,  the  church  of  which  contains  a  curious  stained-glass  window. 
In  the  churchyard  are  some  fine  yews.  —  Boscobel,  where  Charles  II.  lay 
in  hiding  after  the  battle  of  Worcester,  under  the  care  of  'Unparalleled 
Pendreir,  is  8  M.  to.  the  N.W.  of  Wolverhampton  and  2  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Alhrighton  (see  below).  The  royal  oak  has  now  disappeared,  but  a  hiding- 
place  in  the  floor  is  shown  in  which  the  king  was  concealed.  —  Longer 
excursions  may  be  made  to  (10  M.)  Enville,  with  its  beautiful  gardens, 
Bvidgenovth,  and  Hagley. 

From  Wolverhampton  to  Stafford,  15  M.,  L.  N.W.  Railway  in  '/z  hr. 
(fares  25.  9d.,  Is.  8c?.,  Is.  ^^j^d.).  Beyond  (3M.)  Four  Ashes  the  railway  inter- 
sects the  old  Roman  Watling  Street.  —  7  M.  Penkridge,  with  a  tine  red 
church  (right).  At  (15  M.)  Stafovd  we  reach  the  main  L.N.W.  line  (p.  353). 

Beyond  Wolverhampton  the  train  passes  Codsall ,  Albriyhton, 
and  (25  M.)  Shifnal  (Jerningham  Arms),  a  picturesque  little  town 
with  half-timbered  houses  and  a  fine  church.  To  the  E.  is  ^Tong 
Church,  a  singularly  pure  example  of  early  Perp.  (1401-11). 

32  M.  Wellington  (Wrekin  Hotel),  a  nail-making  town  of 
5830  inhab.,  lies  21/2  M.  from  the  N.  base  of  the  Wrekin  (1320  ft.), 
a  solitary  hill  of  trap  rock,  which  has  for  some  time  been  conspicu- 
ous to  the  left.  The  top,  on  which  are  some  fortified  remains, 
commands  an  extensive  *View. 

From  Wellington  to  Market  Drayton,  IT  M.,  railway  in  ^f-i-^/i  hr. 
(fares2s.  9d.,ls.  9d.,  Is.  4V2C^.).  Unimportant  stations.  From  Market  Drayton 
(Corbet  Arms)  lines  go  on  to  Crewe  (p.  351)  and  Stoke  (p.  352). 

Wellington  to  Craven  Arms,  see  p.  181. 

Farther  on,  the  train  crosses  the  Severn. 

42  M.  Shrewsbury  (Raven,  Castle  St.,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  table-d'hote 
4s.;  Lion,  WyleCop;  George;  Crown;  Clarendon),  the  county-town 
of  Shropshire  or  Salop,  an  ancient  place  of  27,967  inhab.,  with  some 
narrow  steep  streets  and  quaint  old  houses,  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  hill  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  Severn.  Its  name  is  derived 
from  Scrobbesbyrig ,  an  appellation  meaning  wooded  hill  (comp. 
'shrub',  'scrub'),  assigned  to  the  British  town  found  by  the  Saxons 
on  this  spot.  As  an  important  position  on  the  Welsh  march,  it  was 
formerly  surrounded  with  walls,  of  which  few  traces  remain.  The 
Severn  is  crossed  here  by  four  bridges,  the  Welsh,  the  English, 
Kingsland,  and  Greyfriars.  Shrewsbury  is  celebrated  for  its  cakes, 
and  visitors  may  still  enjoy  'a  Shrewsbury  cake  of  Pailin's  own 
make'  (^Ingoldsby  Legends').  Not  more  than  half-a-day  need  be 
devoted  to  Shrewsbury. 

Above  us,  to  the  left  as  we  quit  the  station,  rises  the  Castle, 
originally  founded  by  a  vassal  of  William  the  Conqueror  (entrance 
by  a  gate  on  the  left,  just  beyond  the  Presbyterian  Church~^. 


266     Route  38.  SHREWSBURY. 

On  reaching  the  fine  inner  gate  we  obtain  a  view  of  the  mansion  form- 
ed out  of  the  ancient  keep.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  interior, 
but  may  follow  the  path  to  the  right,  leading  to  a  modern  Watch  Tower, 
which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Severn  and  the  country  round 
Shrewsbury.  —  The  walk  outside  the  X.  wall  of  the  castle  •  enclosure 
leads  to  a  covered  bridge  communicating  with  the  station. 

To  tlie  right,  opposite  the  cliurcli.  is  the  Free  Library  and  Mu- 
seum, occupying  the  old  building  of  the  grammar-school  (  comp. 
p.  267).  A  statue  of  Charles  Banvin  [1809-82 ;  see  p.  267)  is 
about  to  be  erected  in  front  of  this  building.  — A  little  farther  on, 
a  street  diverging  from  Castle  St.  leads  to  the*Church  of  St.  Mary, 
which  we  enter  by  the  porch  on  the  N.  side.  The  architecture  is 
of  various  periods  ,  ranging  from  Norman  to  late-Perpendicular. 
The  lofty  spire  fell  during  a  gale  in  1894. 

The  "'Interior,  with  its  fine  stained  glass,  is  more  pleasing  than  the 
exterior.  The  Nave  is  late-Xorman,  the  Transept  E.  E.,  and  the  Trinity 
Chapel  (to  the  S.  of  the  choir)  Perp.  (15th  cent.1.  The  last  contains  a 
monument  of  the  14th  cent,  and  a  memorial  to  Bishop  Samuel  Butler  (d, 
1840;  p.  267);  and  in  the  Chanfry  Chapel,  on  the  X.  side  of  the  chancel, 
is  the  tomb  of  Admiral  Benbow  (d-  1702).  The  ceiling  is  of  oak.  The  Jesse 
Window,  at  the  E.  end,  dates  from  the  14th  century. 

On  leaving  St.  Mary's  we  pass  the  Salop  Infirmary  and  the 
churches  of  St.  Alkmund  and  St.  Julian,  and  then  descend  to  the 
S.  (left),  through  the  steep  Wyle  Cop,  to  the  English  Bridge  over 
the  Severn.  Beyond  the  bridge  we  follow  the  road  in  a  straight  direc- 
tion, passing  under  the  railway,  to  the  *Abbey  Church,  which  is  in 
pait  a  Norman  structure  and  belonged  to  a  monastery  built  by  the 
founder  of  the  castle.  Among  its  chief  features  are  the  fine  W. 
window  (Perp.)  and  the  recessed  Norman  doorway.  The  chancel 
and  clerestory  are  modern.  The  interior  contains  some  interesting 
monuments.  To  the  S.  of  the  church,  in  a  coal-yard,  is  the  fine 
Stone  Pulpit  of  the  Refectory,  almost  the  only  relic  of  the  mon- 
astic buildings. 

On  recrossing  the  bridge  we  turn  to  the  left  (Beeches  Lane) 
and  follow  the  line  of  the  Town  Walls,  passing  the  only  remaining 
tower  and  the  handsome  Eye  S'  Ear  Hospital ,  to  St.  Chad's  Church, 
a  large  circular  building  of  the  end  of  last  century.  Opposite  is 
the  *Quarry,  a  park  on  the  Severn,  with  fine  lime-trees. 

We  may  follow  the  walk  along  the  river  to  the  Welsh  Bridge, 
from  the  other  end  of  which  Frankwell  St.  leads  to  the  left  to  The 
Mount,  the  house  in  which  Darwin  was  born  in  1809. 

Recrossing  the  Welsh  Bridge,  we  return  through  the  Mardol  to 
the  centre  of  the  town.  —  The  Market  Hall,  in  a  square  off  the  High 
St.,  is  an  Elizabethan  edifice  of  1595;  opposite  to  it  is  a  statue  of 
Lord  Clive  (d.  1774),  by  Marochetti.  At  the  beginning  of  the  High 
St.  are  two  interesting  half-timbered  houses,  one  bearing  the  date 
1591.  At  the  end  of  the  street,  to  the  left,  diverges  ^Butchers 
Row,  an  admirable  example  of  the  street-architecture  of  the  15th 
century. 

The  Orammar  School  of  Shrewsbury,  founded  by  Edward  VI., 


WELSHPOOL.  39.  Route.     267 

ranks  among  the  best  public  scliools  of  England.  Bishop  Samuel 
Butler  was  at  one  time  head-master  here,  and  Sir  Philip  Sidney, 
Wycherley,  Judge  Jeffreys,  and  Charles  Darwin  were  pupils.  The 
handsome  new  buildings  of  the  school  are  in  the  suburb  of  Kings- 
land^  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Severn,  opposite  the  Quarry  (p.  266). 
Farquhar  wrote  his  comedy  of  'The  Recruiting  Officer'  at  the  Raven 
Hotel  (p.  265). 

Environs.  Battlefield  Church,  S^/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Shrewsbury,  marks 
the  scene  of  the  battle  in  which  Henry  IV.  overthrew  Hotspur  and  his 
alHes  in  14U3.  It  was  on  this  occasion  that  Sir  John  FalstafT  fought  'a 
long  hour  by  Shrewsbury  clock".  About  1^/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  town  is 
Shelton  Oak,  a  fine  but  now  decayed  tree,  45  ft.  in  girth ,  from  which 
Owen  Glendower  is  said  to  have  watched  the  progress  of  the  contest.  — 
The  ruins  of  Hauyhmond  Abbey  ^  4  M.  to  the  N.  E..  founded  about  1100, 
deserve  a  visit.  They  are  in  a  mixed  IS^orman  and  Pointed  style;  the  nave 
of  the  church  has  an  oaken  roof.  Haughmond  Hill  affords  a  fine  view  of 
Shrewsbury.  —  About  5  M.  to  the  S.  E.  lies  Wroxeter,  with  the  interest- 
ing remains  of  the  Roman  city  of  Uriconium,  a  'British  Pompeii',  forming 
an  enclosure  with  a  circumference  of  about  3  M.  It  is  believed  to  have 
been  burned  by  the  West  Saxons  in  the  6th  cent.,  and  the  skeletons  of 
three  persons  overtaken  by  the  flames  have  been  discovered  among  the 
ruins.  Manv  of  the  antiquities  found  here  are  now  in  the  Shrewsbury 
Museum  (p."2G6).  —  At  Acton  Burnell,  8  M.  to  the  S.  E.,  is  an  old  castle 
in  which  Edward  I.  held  a  parliament  in  1283.  The  church,  restored  in 
1890,  is  a  good  specimen  of  E.E.  work,  inclining  to  Decorated.  The  road 
to  Acton  Burnell  passes  (5  M.)  Pitchford  Hall.,  a  quaint  half-timbered  man- 
sion of  the  15th  century.  —  Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Condover  Hall, 
Buildicas  Abbey  (p.  188),  the  Wrekin  (10  31. :  p.  265),  Stokesay  Castle  (p.  181),  etc. 

From  Shrewsbury  to  Hereford^  see  p.  180 ;  to  Wovcester,  see  p.  187 ; 
to  Chester^  see  R.  40.  —  Shrewsbury  is  a  convenient  starting-point  for  a 
visit  to  Central  Wales,  see  R.  39. 

39.  From  Shrewsbury  to  Aberystwith.  Central  Wales. 

81  M.  Cambrian  Railway  in  372-4  hrs.  (fares  lis.  6d.,  65.91/2^.).  This 
line  crosses  the  centre  of  Wales,  and  has  direct  connection  from  various 
points  with  the  Southern  Welsh  places  described  in  RR.  25-30  and  the 
Northern  Welsh  places  of  R.  41. 

On  leaving  Shrewsbury  the  train  crosses  the  Severn  and  runs 
almost  due  west.  From  (5  M.)  Hanwood  a  branch-line  diverges  on 
the  left  to  Minsterley.  Near  (15  M.)  Middletown  we  skirt  the  base 
of  the Breidden Hills  (to  the  right;  p.  268).  At  (17  M.)  Buttington 
Junction  we  join  the  main  Cambrian  line. 

20  M.  Welshpool  (Royal  Oak;  Bull;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a 
small  town  with  6490  inhab.,  situated  near  the  Severn,  which 
here  becomes  navigable  for  barges.  It  contains  the  Powysland 
Museum  (10-4,  free),  and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  in  flannel. 
Fine  view  from  the  churchyard. 

About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Welshpool  stands  *Powys  Castle  (shown  in 
the  absence  of  the  family),  the  venerable  seat  of  the  I'.arl  of  Powis,  called 
by  the  Welsh  Castell  Ooch  (i.e.  Red  Castle)  from  the  colour  of  the  sand- 
stone of  which  it  is  built.  It  was  founded  in  the  12th  cent.,  but  has  been 
much  added  to  and  modernised.  The  fine  gateway  is  flanked  by  two 
massive  round  towers.  The  castle  contains  some  good  portraits  and 
tapestry  and  a  valuable  collection  of  Indian  curiosities  brought  home 
by  Lord  Clive,   an  ancestor  of  the  Earl.     The  state-bedroom  is  still  kept 


268     Route  39.  MONTGOMERY.         From  Shrewsbury 

exactly  as  it  was  when  once  occupied  by  Charles  11.  The  beautiful  Park- 
is  open  to  the  public  (entrance  in  the  main  street  of  Welshpool);  fine 
view  from  the  terraces  in  front  of  the  castle. 

Among  the  other  excursions  that  may  be  made  from  Welshpool  are 
those  to  Guilsfield,  3  M.  to  the  X.,  with  a  fine  old  church ;  to  the  water- 
fall of  the  Rhiw,  near  Berriew,  41/2  M.  to  the  S.,  and  on  to  (3  M.)  Monf- 
gomery  (see  below);  and  to  the  N.  E.  to  (4  31.)  the  Breidden  Hills,  the 
highest  summit  nf  which,  Moel-y-Golfa  ^  attains  a  height  of  13(X)  ft.  On 
Breidden  Hill  (12(X)  ft.)  is  a  pillar  commemorating  Rodney's  victory  over 
the  French  in  1782  (view).  Nearly  all  the  hills  near  Welshpool  are  sur- 
mounted with  remains  of  ancient  fortifications. 

Feom  Welshpool  to  Oswestry  axd  Gobowen,  19V2  M.,  railway  in 
^li-V-j\h.r.{id.rQS  2s.  6(^.,  is.  I'^j^d.).  This  line  passes  through  a  pretty  dis- 
trict, which  would  repay  the  pedestrian,  who,  however,  should  make  a 
detour  through  the  glen  of  the  Tanat.  From  (10  M.)  Llanymynech  (Lion)  a 
branch-line  diverges  to  (9  M  )  Llaufyllin  (W'ynnstay  Arms),  celebrated  for 
its  ales  and  sweet  bells.  It  is  the  nearest  station  to  (10  M.)  'Pistyll  PJiaiadr, 
the  highest  waterfall  in  Wales,  the  route  to  which  passes  through  (6  M.) 
Llanrhaiadr-yn-  Mochnant  (Wynnstay  Arms).  From  Llanrhaiadr  we  may 
also  proceed  to  (10  M.)  Lalce  Vyvnwy  (p.  307). —  iQ  lil.  Oswestrj (Wynnstay 
Arms;  Queens;  Rail.  Efmt.  Rooms)  ^  an  interesting  old  town  with  8500 
inhab.  and  a  picturesque  .church-tower.  At  Old  Oswestry  is  a  British 
Camp.  Oswestry  is  a  convenient  starting-point  for  an  excursion  to  Pistyll 
Rhaiadr  (see  above);  a  brake  runs  twice  weekly  (Wed.  &.  Sat.)  in  summer 
to  (14  M.)  Llanrhaiadr  (see  above;  fare  2s.,  return  35.).  —  At  (I91/2M.) 
Gohowen  we  reach  the  railway  from  Shrewsbury  to  Chester  (see  R.  40). 

26  M.  Montgomery.  The  small  town  of  Montgomery  (Green 
Dragon),  wMcli  lies  2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  the  station,  is  interesting 
for  the  finely-situated  ruins  of  the  old  *  Castle,  dating  from  the  11th 
century.  An  extensive  British  Camp  on  an  adjoining  hill  commands 
a  fine  view.     The  Church  contains  some  old  monuments. 

Offa's  Dyke,  a  boundary- wall  erected  by  King  OfFa  of  Mercia  (8th 
cent.),  and  extending  from  Flintshire  to  the  mouth  of  the  Wye  (p.  174), 
passes  within  a  mile  or  two  of  Montgomery  (to  the  E.)  and  may  be  con- 
veniently visited  thence. 

From  (30  M.)  Abermule  a  short  branch-line  diverges  on  the  left 
to  Kerry,  with  an  interesting,  partly  Norman  church.  —  34  M. 
Newtown  (Boar's  Head),  a  flannel-manufacturing  town  with  6610 
inhabitants.  The  new  church  contains  a  fine  screen  removed  from 
the  old  church.  Robert  Owen  (1771-1858),  the  Socialist  (comp. 
p.  490),  was  born,  died,  and  is  buried  here.  —  About  1  M.  to  the 
S.,   on  the  road  to  Builth,  is  a  fine  waterfall,  75  ft.  high. 

331/2  M.  Moat  Lane  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of 
the  line  to  Llanidloes,  Builth,  Brecon,  and  Merthyr  Tydvil  (see 
p.  205).  —  Beyond  (40  M.)  Caersws  the  line  quits  the  Severn  and 
enters  the  pretty  wooded  valley  of  the  Carno.  About  1^2  ^1-  to 
the  N.E.  of  (45  M.J  Carno  lie  three  picturesque  little  lakes.  We 
now  cross  the  highest  point  of  the  line  (690  ft.).  —  52  M.  Llan- 
brynmair;  5  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  beautiful  *Waterfal]  of  the 
Twymyn,  140  ft.  high.  —  From  (561/9  ^l-l  Cemmes  Road  (Dovey 
Hotel)  a  short  branch-line  runs  through  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
Dovey  to  (7  M.)  Dinas  Mawddicy  (Buckley  Arms). 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Dinas  Mawddwy  is  Mallwyd  (Peniarth 
Arms),  a  charmingly-situated  village,  with  some  fine  yews  in  the  church- 
yard.  Walkers  may"  go  on  from  Dinas  Mawddwy  to  (7"  M.)  the  Cross  Foxes 


to  Aberyslwith.  MACHYNLLETH.  39.  Route.     269 

Inn  (p.  302)  and  (IOV2  M.)  Dolgelley  (p.  302),  or  cross  the  Bwlch-y-Groes  Pass 
to  (121/2  M.J  Llanuwchllyn  (p.  30(3)    or  to   (16  M.)   Lake   Vyrnwy  (p.  3U7). 

61 Y2  ^'  Machynlleth  (Wynnstay  ^^  Herbert^  D.  3-55.,  pens, 
from  50s.  per  week  ;  Lion^  R.  &  A.  4^.,  pens.  423.  per  week  ;  Eagles., 
near  the  station;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  pronounced  Machunthleth,  a 
small  town  with  2000  inhab.,  believed  to  be  the  Roman  Maglona, 
is  prettily  situated  on  the  Dovey,  at  the  foot  of  the  Arran-y~Gessel 
(2225  ft.).  It  affords  convenient  headquarters  for  excursions,  owing 
to  its  central  situation  and  extensive  railway-communications.  The 
fishing  in  the  neighbourhood  is  good.  The  Welsh  residence  of  the 
Dowager  Marchioness  of  Londonderry,  Plas  Machynlleth,  adjoins 
the  town  on  the  S. 

Amon?  the  favourite  points  within  easv  reach  are  Barmouth  (p.  299i, 
Dolgelley  (p.  3Ui),  Cader  Idris  (p.  8U5),  Mallwyd  (p.  268),  Llyfnant  Glen 
(p.  270),  Llanidloes  (p.  2l)5),  Plinlimmon  (see  below),  and  Aberystwith  (p.'^TOj. 
The  finest  short  excursion  is  to  take  the  train  to  Glandovey  (p.  270),  and 
walk  back  to  (9  M.)  Machynlleth  (<ee  p.  27n). 

From  Machynlleth  a  short  railway  threads  a  pretty  valley  to  (oM.)Corris 
or  Abercorris  (Braich  Goch  Inn.,  rustic),  whence  a  pleasant  walk  may  be 
taken  to  (11  M.)  Dolgelley.  The  first  part  of  the  road,  as  we  ascend 
to  the  col  (660  ft.),  whence  Cader  Idris  is  well  seen ,  is  flanked  with 
slate-quarries.  When  the  Tal-y-Llyn  valley  is  reached  we  turn  to  the 
right.  The  road  skirts  the  E.  cliffs  of  Cader  Idris,  and  beyond  another 
col  reaches  the  Cross  Foxes  Inn.  Thence  to  (81/2  M.)  Bolgelleu,  see  p.  802. 
[A  public  conveyance  plies  from  Corns  to  (4  M.)  Tal-y-Llyn  (p.  270). J 

The  road  from  Machynlleth  to  (20  M.)  Llanidloes  (p.  205)  is  pretty  at 
each  end,  but  dull  in  the  middle.     It  passes  the  (12  M.)  Stay-a-Little  Inn. 

The  ascent  of  Plinlimmon  (2469  ft.),  which  lies  about  10  M.  to  the 
S.  of  Machynlleth,  may  be  made  from  the  head  of  the  Llyfnant  valley. 
The  view  is  disappointing,  and  the  mountain  has  been  described  as  'sodden 
dreariness'.  Duffryn  Castell  Inn  is  3V2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  summit,  on 
the  high-road  between  Llanidloes  and  DeviFs  Bridge. 

The  road  from  Machynlleth  to  (18  M.)  Aberystwith  (p.  270)  is  not  of  great 
interest,  but  walkers  will  be  repaid  by  going  as  far  as  Llanlihangel  (p.  270)^ 
with  digressions  to  the  Llyfnant  Valley  (see  p.  270)  and  Bedd  Taliesin  (p.  270),' 
the  grave  of  the  Welsh  Homer  (in  all  about  8  M.).  The  route  recom- 
mended is  as  follows.  We  follow  the  hill-road  to  (oM.)  Qlas-Pwll{^.'2~(S)^ 
but  just  before  reaching  it  diverge  to  the  left  to  (1  M.)  GalU-y-Bladur 
Farm  (p.  270)  for  a  view  of  Pistyll-y-Llyn  (p.  270).  From  the  farm  we 
descend  into  the  valley  at  the  Rhaiadr  Gorge,  and  follow  the  track 
leading  down  the  stream  to  the  (4  M.)  main  road,  at  the  entrance  of  .the 
valley.  We  then  follow  the  road  to  the  left,  passing  Glandovey  Station, 
Glandovey  Castle,  and  (2  M.)  Eglwys  Fach.  At  Furnace,  1/3  M.  farther 
on,  we  leave  the  high-road  and  proceed  through  the  main  valley  Qeft), 
in  a  due  S.  direction,  to  (3  M.)  Bedd  Taliesin  (p.  270).  Thence  we  may 
either  proceed  to  the  right  to  (1  M.)  Tre  Taliesin  (Tnn),  on  the  main  road, 
or  continue  in  a  straight  direction  to  (2  M.)  Tal-y-Bont  (Hotel),  which  also 
lies  on  the  main  road,  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Llanjihangel  (p.  270). 

The  train  now  descends  the  green  valley  of  the  Dyfi  or  Dovey. 
At  (65V2  M.)  Glandovey  Junction  (Rail.  Refreshment  Rooms)  the 
line  forks ,  the  left  branch  going  to  Aberystwith,  and  the  right 
branch  running  N.  to  Barmouth  (p.  299). 

From  Glandovey  Junction  to  Barmouth,  22  M.,  railway  in  1  hr. 
(fares  2s.  lid.,  Is.  91/2 d.).  This  beautiful  line  skirts  the  coast  nearly 
the  whole  way.  The  view,  to  the  left,  of  the  estuary  of  the  Dovey  is  line 
at  high-tide.  —  6  M.  Aberdovey  (Dovey ;  Raven;  Britannia),  a  small  water- 
ing-place  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dovey ,   with   good   sands,    a   golf-course, 


270     Route  39.  ABERYSTWITH. 

and  a  mild  climate.  The  line  here  turns  to  the  N.  —  10  M.  Towyn 
(Corbet  it  Raven,  R.  &  A.  3s.,  D.  3s.  6cf. ;  Whitehall),  a  popular  sea-bathing 
resort,  with  an  ancient  church,  which  has  been  partly  rebuilt.  It  con- 
tains 'St.  Cadfan's  Stone",  a  time-worn  relic ,  with  an  inscription  that 
has  never  been  satisfactorily  deciphered.  [A  short  railway,  starting  from 
the  Pendre  Station,  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Cambrian  station,  runs  from 
Towyn  to  (7  M.)  Ahergynolwyn,  about  3^/2  M.  beyond  which  is  Tal-y-Llyn 
Hotel,  a  favourite  resort  of  anglers,  on  a  lake  at  the  S.  base  of  Cader 
Idris ,  which  may  be  ascended  hence  by  active  climbers  in  3  hrs.  The 
route  follows  a  small  valley  to  i/Zt/n-jz-Cae  (p.  306),  whence  a  ateep  climb 
brings  us  direct  to  the  top.]  —  Beyond  Towyn  Cader  Idris  soon  comes 
into  view  to  the  right.  IG'/a  M.  Llwyngwril.  —  20  M.  Barmouth  Junction, 
and  thence    (to  22  M.)  Barmouth,   see  p.  299. 

From  Glandovey  Junction  the  Aberystwith  train  descends  the 
left  bank  of  the  Dovey  to  (^661/2  ^^O  Glandovey.  Above  the  station 
is  the  pretty  little  Glandovey  Castle. 

*Fbom  Gl.\xdovet  to  Machynlleth  by  the  Lltfnant  Glen  and  Pisttll- 
t-Lltn,  9  M.  This  walk  (comp.  p.  269)  is  especially  beautiful  in  autumn. 
From  the  station  we  follow  the  highroad  to  3Iachynlleth  for  V2M.,  and 
then  ascend  the  lane  to  the  right  (sign-post,  'Llyfnant  Valley").  At  the 
(1/3  M.)  fork  we  keep  to  the  right.  The  track  ascends  through  a  beauti- 
fully wooded  valley,  and  then  descends  to  (2^/2  M.)  Glas-Pwll,  a  small 
house  embosomed  among  trees.  At  Glas-Pwll  we  cross  a  foot-bridge  over 
a  tributary  brook  and  immediately  reach  another  bridge  over  the  main 
stream.  The  fall  of  Cwm  Rhaiadr  lies  to  our  right,  about  3/4  M.  up  this 
stream,  the  best  route  ascending  on  the  right  bank  (?.  e.  to  our  left  as 
we  ascend).  The  gorge  with  the  fall  is  very  picturesque.  Instead  of 
returning  to  the  road  at  Glas-Pwll  we  may  scramble  up  the  high  side  of 
the  gorge  and  so  reach  the  road  on  the  X.  side  of  the  valley,  by  which 
we  proceed  to  the  right  to  G/2  M.)  Gallt-y-Bladur  Farm.  [If  we  return  to 
the  road  at  Glas-Pwll,  we  follow  it  for  150  yds.,  and  then  turn  to  the 
right  to  reach  the  farm.]  Xear  this  farm  we  obtain  the  best  view  of  the 
fall  of  Pistyll-y-Llyn,  which  lies  about  I1/2  M.  to  the  S.;  it  is  unnecessary 
to  go  nearer.  We  now  return  to  the  (1  M.)  Machvnlleth  road,  which  leads 
to  the  X.  of  Glas-Pwll.  After  about  IV4  M.,  at  the  foot  of  a  descent, 
we  cross  a  stream  and  ascend  the  middle  track,  avoiding  those  which  lead 
to  the  right  and  left  through  gates.  After  5  min.  we  pass  some  cottages 
on  the  right  and  soon  obtain  a  view  of  the  Dovey  valley  to  the  left.  The 
road  then  dips  once  more,  but  re-ascends  to  the  (3/4  M.)  point  from  which 
we  make  our  final  descent  to  the  highroad  through  the  Dovey  valley. 
Machynlleth  soon  comes  into  sight;  and  a  well-marked  footpath  to  the 
right,  at  a  cottage,  cuts  off  a  corner.  —  1  M.  Machynlleth,  see  p.  269. 

^  The  train  now  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the  Dovey  Estuary.  —  73  M. 
Borf/i  (Borth  Hotel ;  Hydropathic  Establishment),  a  small  water- 
ing-place, with  a  sandy  beach  and  a  golf-course.  A  walk  may  be 
taken  from  Borth  to  (5  M.)  Bedd  Taliesin  (p.  269),  with  the  burial 
cairn  of  Taliesin,  the  greatest  of  the  Welsh  bards  (6th  cent.).  — 
751/2  ^i-  Llanfihangel  (p.  269),  a  pretty  little  spot;  77  M.  Bow 
Street.  The  train  now  makes  a  wide  sweep  to  the  left  and  enters 
(81  M.)  Aberysticith  from  the  S.E. 

Aberystwith  (^Queens,  Bellevue^  at  both  R.  &  A.  3s.  6d.,  D.  3s.  Qd., 
Cambria,  new,  at  the  Pier,  Waterloo  Temperance,  all  facing  the  sea ; 
*Lion  or  Gogerddan  Arms,  an  old-fashioned  house,  Talbot,  both  in 
the  town;  White  Horse;  Smith's;  Lodging  Houses),  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Ystwith  and  Rheidol,  which  here  unite  just  before 
entering  the  sea,  is  a  watering-place  with  6700  inhabitants.    The 


ABERYSTWITH.  39    Route.     271 

beach ,  which  is  well  adapted  for  bathing  and  yields  cornelians, 
agates,  and  other  pebbles,  is  flanked  by  a  Marine  Promenade,  end- 
ing at  a  pier  (adm.  2c/.).  To  the  S.W.,  on  a  rocky  promontory  descend- 
ing abruptly  to  the  sea,  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  Castle,  erected  by 
Gilbert  de  Strongbow  at  the  beginning  of  the  i2th  cent.,  and  finally 
destroyed  by  Cromwell.  The  grounds  afford  an  admirable  view  of 
the  Welsh  mountains,  including  (_in  clear  weather)  Snowdon.  Ad- 
joining the  castle  grounds  stands  the  University  College  of  Wales 
(300  students),  an  imposing  though  somewhat  irregular  building, 
opened  in  1872  (adm.  6d. ;  during  vacation  daily,  10-1  and  2-5,  at 
other  times  3-5).  At  the  N.  end  of  the  bay  is  a  Hostel  for  Lady 
Students^  belonging  to  the  college. 

Fen  Glais  or  Constitution  Hill  (450ft.)-  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  is  a 
good  point  of  view.  —  Walks  may  be  taken  to  (1  31.)  Pen  Dinns  (400  ft), 
with  a  column  in  memory  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington;  to  (2V4  M.)  Allt- 
Wien  and  (5M.)  Twll  Twric,  or  the  Monk's  Cave,  both  on  the  coast  to  the 
S.;  to  Llanbadayn-Faicr,  with  its  fine  church,  1  M.  inland;  and  to  A'ant 
Eos,  4  M.  to  the  S.E.  A  railway-excursion  mav  also  be  made  to  Strata 
Florida  (p.  209). 

No  one  should  miss  the  excursion  to  (12  M.)  the  Devil's  Bridge,  to 
which  brakes  ply  daily  in  summer  (return-fare  45.),  returning  (15  M.)  via 
Pont  Erwyd.  A  mail-cart,  starting  at  8  a.m.  (fare  3s.,  return  4*.),  also 
conveys  passengers.  The  direct  road  follows  the  ridge  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  valley  of  the  Rheidol,  allording  pleasant  views.  The  brakes  stop  at  the 
Devil's  Bridge  Hotel  (R.  &  A.  35.;  cold  luncheon,  including  admission  to 
the  Falls,  25.  6rf.),  close  to  the  bridge.  The  *Pont-y-Mynach,  or  Devil's 
Bridge,  is  a  small  bridge  constructed  by  the  monks  of  Strata  Florida  in 
the  11th  or  12th  cent,  over  the  deep  gorge  of  the  Mynach,  at  its  junction 
with  the  wooded  valley  of  the  Rheidol.  Both  rivers  form  beautiful  water- 
falls near  the  junction.  The  old  bridge  is  now  surmounted  by  another 
added  in  1753,  but  is  well  seen  from  below.  Most  of  the  best  view-points 
are  within  the  grounds  (adm.  Is.)  of  the  hotel.  Walkers  should  visit  the 
Parson  s  Bridge,  which  spans  the  Rheidol  gorge  IV2  M.  farther  up  (to  the 
N.).  On  the  road  just  above  (on  the  left  bank)  is  the  church  of  Yspytty 
Cynfyn,  which  the  excursion-brakes  pass  on  their  return  to  Aberystwith; 
and  11/2  M.  farther  on  is  Pont  Erwyd  (Inn),  in  front  of  which  the  river 
flows  through  a  rocky  'gut',  forming  falls  of  some  size  after  rain.  —  About 
4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Devil's  Bridge  is  Hafod,  a  large  mansion  in  a 
well-wooded  park.  Near  it  is  the  church  of  Eglwys-Newydd,  containing 
a  line  monument  by  Chantrey.  From  Hafod  we  may  descend  the  valley  of 
the  Ystwith,  passing  Pont  Ehyd-y-Groes  (Inn),  to  (71/2  M.)  Trawscoed,  whence 
we  mav  return  to  Abervstwith  bv  train.  —  Strata  Florida  (p.  209)  is  fi'M. 
to  the  S.  of  Hafod. 

A  mail-cart  also  runs  daily  from  Aberystwith  to  (16M.)  J&«rayron(p.  209). 

From  Aberystwith  to  Carnarvon,  comp.  RR.  41b  and  41c. 

40,  From  Shrewsbury  to  Chester. 

a.  Via  Whitchurch. 

43  M.  L.  N.  W.  Railway  in  lV4-2Vi  hrs.  (fares  6«.  6d.,  4*.,  3<.  2V2<i.J. 

The  first  stations  are  Hadnnll,  Yorton,  and  [il  M.)  Wem.  The 
notorious  Judge  Jeffreys  (1643-89)  was  created  Baron  Wem  by 
James  II.  —  21^/2  M.  Whitchurch  (Victoria;  Swan),  a  town  with 
4000  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Cambrian  Railway  to  EUes- 
mere,  Whittington,   and  Oswestry  (p.  268)  and  of  the  L.  N.  W. 


272    Route  40.  RUABON.  From  Shrewsbury 

line  to  Crewe  (p.  351).  The  church  contains  a  monument  of  Tal- 
bot, first  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  killed  at  Bordeaux  in  1453.  About 
4  M.  to  the  N.  E.  is  Combermere  Abbey,  the  seat  of  Viscount  Com- 
bermere,  with  a  fine  park  (open  to  visitors)  and  a  large  lake  or 
mere,  the  pike-fishing  in  which  is  famous.  —  The  following  sta- 
tions are  unimportant.  —  43  M.  Chester,  see  p.  273. 

b.   Vid  Ruahon. 

42  M.  Railway  (Great  Western)  in  1-2  hrs.  (fares  6s.  Qd.,  4«.,  3*. 
I^lid.).  This  line,  skirting  the  eastern  margin  of  North  Wales,  is  more  at- 
tractive than  the  one  above  described,  especially  in  the  Dee  valley. 

The  train  leaves  the  Severn  to  the  left  and  crosses  the  battle- 
field of  Shrewsbury  (p.  267).  Beyond  (71/4  M.)  Baschurch,  a  village 
with  remains  of  a  British  hill-fort,  we  traverse  a  flat  and  marshy 
district.  The  Breidden  Hills  are  visible  in  the  distance,  with  Rod- 
ney's monument  fp.  268).  —  16  M.  WhitUngton,  a  prettily-situated 
village,  with  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  is  also  a  station  on  the 
line  from  Oswestry  to  Whitchurch  (p.  271). 

Near  (18  M.)  Gobowen,  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Oswestry  and 
Welshpool  (see  p.  268).  we  cross  M^atfs  Dyke,  an  embankment  re- 
sembling Offa's  Dyke,  and  supposed  like  it  to  have  been  erected  by 
the  Mercian  Saxons  to  defend  themselves  against  the  Britons.  Near 
(20  M.)  Preesgweene  the  train  crosses  the  charming  valley  of  the 
Ceiriog,  here  the  boundary  between  Shropshire  and  Wales,  by  a 
viaduct  100  ft.  high.  —  21 V4  M.  Chirk  (*Hand  Hotel),  a  prettily- 
situated  village  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Ceiriog. 

Chirk-  Castle  (p.  310)  lies  IV4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  station.  To  the 
left  of  the  road  we  have  a  view  of  the  fine  aqueduct  and  viaduct  cros- 
sing the  valley  of  the  Ceiriog  (see  p.  310).  There  is  also  a  footpath 
from  Chirk  to  the  Castle,  which  is  nearly  1/2  M.  shorter  than  the  road. 
—  About  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Chirk,  overlooking  the  valley  of  the  Ceiriog, 
is  Brt/nkinali,  the  seat  of  Lord  Trevor,  partly  built  by  Inigo  Jones.  The 
Duke  of  Wellington  spent  many  of  his  holidays  here  when  a  boy  (adm. 
to  grounds  by  order  obtained  at  the  Hand  Hotel).  —  Tramway  from 
Chirk  to  Glyn  Ceiriog,  see  p.  310. 

Beyond  (231/2  ^l-l  ^^A*  ^^e  ^^^^^  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Dee  by 
a  viaduct  145  ft.  high  and  1450  ft.  long,  commanding  an  exquisite 
*View  in  both  directions.  To  the  left  is  Pont-y-Cysylltau  (p.  311), 
in  the  distance  are  the  Berwyn  Mts.  On  the  right  we  skirt  Wynn- 
stay  Park  (see  p.  311),  with  its  fine  old  oaks. 

25  M.  Ruabon  (Wynnstay  Arms;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  near 
which  are  some  important  iron  and  coal  mines,  is  the  junction  of 
the  railway  to  Llangollen,  Corwen.  and  Dolgelley  (seeR.  41c).  The 
church  contains  several  monuments  of  the  Wynn  family.  The  valley 
of  the  Dee  and  other  environs  afford  numerous  charming  walks. 

The  line  now  runs  parallel  with  Offa's  Dyke  and  Watt's  Dyke, 
through  a  district  abounding  in  coal  and  iron.  To  the  right,  near 
Wrexham,  is  Erddig  Hall,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill. 

30  M.  Wrexham  (Wynnstay  Arms),  a  well-built  market-town 


to  Chester. 


CHESTER.  40.  Route.     273 


with    13.000  iiihab. ,    sometimes   called   the   metropolis   of  North 
Wales.     The  handsome  '-'Church,   built  iu  1472  on  the  site  of  an 
earlier  building,  contains  two  monuments  by  Roubiliac;  the  tower, 
added  in  150U.  is  adorned  with  numerous  figures  of  saints.    Outside 
the  church,  to  the  W.  of  the  tower,  is  the  tomb  of  Elihu  Yale  (1648- 
1721),   founder  of  Yale  College  in  the  United  States.    The  quaint 
epitaph,  restored  in  1874  by  the  authorities  of  Yale  College,  begins  : 
Bora  in  America,  in  Europe  bred,   In  Africa  travelled,   in  Asia  wed 
Where  long  he  liv'd  and  thrivd.  in  London  Dead. 
Much  good  some  ill  he  did,  so  hope  airs  even 
And  that  his  soul  through  mercy's  gone  to  heaven.' 

Fhom  Wrexham  to  Ellesmere,  13  M.,  branch-railway  in  V2  ^^r.,  pass- 
ing three  intermediate  stations.  —  13  M.  Ellesmere  (Bridgewaier  Arms; 
Red  Lion)  is  a  picturesque  little  town  with  an  interesting  church  (recently 
restored)  and  a  small  lake. 

From  Wrexham  to  Birkenhead  and  Liverpool.  28  M.,  railway  in 
IV3-IV4  hr.  (fares  4s.  lOrf.,  2s.  id.).  This  line  affords  a  direct  route  between 
North  Wales  and  Liverpool.  —  2  M.  Bridge  End.  3  M.  Caergwrle.,  near  which 
are  the  ruins  of  Caergwrle  Castle.  At  (4  M.)  Hope  we  intersect  the  line  from 
Chester  to  Mold  (p.  2-^1").  —  5  M.  Buckle?/  Junction.  7  31.  Bawarden  (Glynne 
Arms),  the  nearest  railway-station  for  Hawarden  Castle  (p.  281).  10  M. 
ConnaKs  Quay  ti-  Shotlon  is  the  junction  of  a  line'  to  Chester  (Northgate  Sta- 
tion; see  below),  which,  like  the  Birkenhead  line,  is  carried  across  the 
Dee  by  means  of  a  swing-bridge  527  ft.  in  length.  —  Our  line  now  traverses 
the  peninsular  portion  of  Cheshire  known  as  the  Wirral  via  Neston  d-  Park- 
gate  (p.  2'^3),  Bamston.,  and  Upton.  —  From  (24  M.)  Bidston  some  trains 
run  to  (26V2  M.)  Seacom>>e.,  whence  ferry-steamers  cross  the  Mersey  to  Liver- 
pool. Others  run  via  Birkenhead  Docks  and  through  the  Mersey  Tunnel  (comp. 
p.  336)  to  the  Central  Station  at  Liverpool. 

Another  branch-line  runs  from  Wrexham  to  (5  M.)  Brymbo. 

33  M.  Gresford,  the  birthplace  of  Samuel  Warren  (1807-77), 
author  of  'Ten  Thousand  a  Year',  with  a  fine  church.  The  line 
runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Alyn ,  a  tributary  of  the  Dee.  To 
the  left,  in  the  distance,  rise  the  Clwydian  Hills  (p.  273).  40  M. 
Saltney.  with  extensive  works.  The  train  now  crosses  the  Dee  by  a 
huge  cast-iron  bridge,  and  passes  through  a  short  tunnel. 

42  M.  Chester.  —  Railway  Stations.  General  Station  (PI.  F,  G,  1), 
an  extensive  and  handsome  building,  used  in  common  by  the  L.  N.  W. 
R.  and  the  Gr.  W.  R.,  1/2  M.  from  the  centre  of  the  town  (to  the  N.  E.).  — 
Northgate  Station  (PI.  D,  1),  Victoria  Road,  for  the  'Cheshire  Lines'.  — 
Liverpool  Road  {h&yo-ai.  PI.  C,  1),  a  suburban  station  for  the  line  to  Wrex- 
ham, etc.  —  The  hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  *Grosvenor  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  Eastgate,  a  modern  building  in  the 
old  timbered  style,  R.  &  A.  Ss.,  B.  2s.,  D.  65.  -,  *Qceen  (PI.  b  ;  F,  1),  connect- 
ed by  a  covered  way  with  the  General  Station,  R.  ifcA.  4s.6c?. ;  Blossoms, 
just  outside  the  East  Gate  (PI.  E,  3),  commercial,  R.  &  A.  3s. ;  Hop  Pole  ; 
Green  Dragon;  Westminster  Temperance,  R.  2s.,  A.  Is.,  pens.  8s. 

Restaurants.  Bolland,  40  Foregate  St.  (also  confectioner);  City  Grill, 
14  Foregate  St.  ;  Railway  Restaurant.^  at  the  General  Station. 

Cabs.  For  1-2  pers.  Is.  per  mile;  6d.  for  each  1  •.>  M.  additional;  3-6 
pers.  Is.  6d.  and  Qd.\  per  hour  2s.  6d.;  each  addit.  V*  hr.  6d.  Fare  and 
a   half  between   midnight   and  6  a.  m,     No  charge  for  ordinary  luggage. 

Tramway  from  the  General  Station  through  the  town  to  Orosvenor 
Bridge,  Eaton  Park  (fares  3d.  inside,  2d.  outside),  and  Saltney. 

Steamers  (small),    starting  near  the  Suspension   Bridge,    ply   up   the 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  18 


274     Route  40.  CHESTER.  History. 

Dee  in  summer  to  (3  M.)  Eccleston  Ferry  (6d.),   Haton  Bridge   (8d.,  return 
is.),  and  Farndon. 

Boats  on  the  Dee  Qd.  to  %s.  per  hour,  4-205.  per  day,  according  to 
the  size;  charges  doubled  on  Bank  Holidays.  — Swimming  Baths,  in  the 
Dee,  near  the  Suspension  Bridge.  —  Horse  Race:  on  the  Roodee  (p.  275) 
in  May.  —  Post  Office  (PI,  E,  3),  St.  John  Street.  —  Booksellers,  Phillipson 
d-  Gol'der,  Eastgate  Row  (also  photographs,  etc.). 

Chester,  the  capital  of  Cheshire  and  the  seat  of  a  bishop, 
with  37,100  inhah.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Dee,  a  few  miles  above  its  estuary,  and  is  perhaps  the  most 
quaint  and  mediaeval-looking  town  in  England.  Strangers  arriving 
in  Liverpool  should  unquestionably  devote  a  day  to  this  most 
interesting  little  city ,  even  though  unable  to  extend  their  tour 
into  North  Wales,  of  which  Chester  forms  the  usual  portal.  Every 
effort  has  been  made  to  carry  out  modern  improvements  in  such  a 
way  as  to  interfere  as  little  as  possible  with  the  characteristic  fea- 
tures of  the  place.  Chester  formerly  carried  on  a  considerable 
shipping  trade,  most  of  which  has  been  lost  through  the  silting 
up  of  the  Dee.  Monthly  markets  are  held  for  the  sale  of  Cheshire 
cheese  in  the  Cheese  Market  (PI.  D,  3),  behind  the  Town  Hall. 

History.  Whether  or  not  a  settlement  of  the  early  Britons  occupied 
the  place  of  modern  Chester  is  uncertain,  hut  the  Romans  at  once  recog- 
nised the  impnrtance  of  the  position,  and  for  four  centuries,  beginning 
about  A.  D.  60,  Deva,  or  the  camp  upon  the  Dee,  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  famous  XXth  Legion.  Its  claim  to  rank  as  a  colonia  has  not  been 
established ,  but  its  very  name ,  a  softened  form  of  the  Saxon  ceaster, 
meaning  the  camp  (Latin  castra),  proves  its  importance  as  a  military 
post.  The  original  Saxon  name  in  its  full  form  was,  however,  Laege- 
ceastir ,  which  like  the  Welsh  Caerleon,  was  a  translation  of  the  later 
Roman  name,  Castra  or  Civitas  Legionum.  Innumerable  Roman  remains 
have  been  found  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  are  now  preserved 
in  the  Grosvenor  Museum  (p.  279).  After  the  departure  of  the  Romans, 
Chester  was  possessed  in  turn  by  the  Welsh,  the  Saxons,  and  the  Danes, 
In  607  it  was  destroyed  by  ^thelfrith  of  Northumbria,  who  on  the  same 
occasion  massacred  "the  1200  monks  of  Bangor  Isycoed,  'the  last  great 
victory  of  English  heathendom  over  British  Christianity.'  It  may  then, 
according  to  one  view,  have  lain  desolate  for  nearly  three  centuries,  till 
the  Danes  found  refuge  in  it  in  894  and  maintained  it  for  a  year  against 
King  Alfred,  Sixteen  years  later  it  was  rebuilt  by  ^thelred  of  Mercia  and 
his  wife  jEthelflaed^  who  extended  the  walls  so  as  to  embrace  the  site  of 
the  castle.  Chester  was  the  last  English  city  to  yield  (in  1070)  to  William 
the  CoHqueror,  who  created  his  nephew,  Hugh  Lupus,  Palatine  Earl  of 
Chester,  and  entrusted  him  with  the  task  of  curbing  his  Welsh  neigh- 
bours. The  earldom  reverted  to  the  crown  under  Henry  III,  (1237),  and 
still  furnishes  a  title  to  the  heir-apparent  of  the  throne.  In  the  Great  Civil 
War  the  citizens  held  out  stoutly  for  Charles  I.  for  two  years  (1644-46), 
but  were  finally  starved  into  surrender.  The  present  bishopric  of  Chester 
dates  from  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  (1541)  ,  though  the  see  of  Lichfield 
was  transferred  to  Chester  for  a  few  years  in  the  11th  cent.  (1075-85), 
and  all  through  the  middle  ages  the  bishops  of  Lichfield  were  as  often  as 
not  called  bishops  of  Chester, 

Chester  still  bears  distinct  traces  of  its  origin  in  a  Roman 
castrum ,  and  the  older  part  of  it  forms  an  oblong,  intersected  by 
two  main  streets  at  right  angles  to  each  other  and  surrounded  by 
walls,  a  walk  round  which  forms  the  best  introduction  to  the  city. 
The  present  *Walls,  constructed  of  red  sandstone ,  are  not  older 


^^ 


Walls.  CHESTER.  40.  Route.     275 

than  the  Idth  cent,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  even  the  foundations 
contain  any  work  of  an  earlier  period.  On  three  sides,  however,  the 
line  of  the  Roman  walls  is  followed,  while  the  S.  wall  has  been 
pushed  considerably  forward.  The  circuit  of  the  walls  is  nearly  2M., 
and  the  paved  footway  on  the  top,  4-6  ft.  in  width,  affords  a  de- 
lightful walk,  commanding  admirable  views  of  the  city  and  its 
surroundings.    The  gates  are  modern. 

Walk  round  the  Walls.  Leaving  the  General  Railwap  Station  (PI.  F,  G,  1), 
we  puss  through  City  Road  and  Foregate  Street,  and  reach  the  walls  at  0/2  M. ) 
the  East  Gate  (PI.  E,3).  Here  we  ascend  the  steps  to  the  right  and  follow  the 
walls  towards  the  N.  (right),  obtaining  almost  at  once  a  splendid  view  of 
the  Cathedral  (p.  276j.  At  the  N.  E.  ;:ngle  of  the  walls  is  the  Phoenix  Tower 
(PI.  D,  2  ;  adm.  IcZ.),  the  most  interesting  uf  those  still  remaining,  with  an  in- 
scription recording  that  Charles  I.  hence  witnessed  the  defeat  of  his  troops 
on  Rowton  Moor  in  1645.  The  view  from  the  top  includes  the  ruined  castle 
of  Beeston  (p.  281),  on  a  hill  10  M.  to  the  S.  E.  Along  the  N.  wall,  part 
of  which  seems  of  earlier  workmanship  than  the  rest  (possibly  Xorman), 
runs  the  Shropshire  Union  Canal,  taking  the  place  of  the  ancient  moat. 
After  crossing  the  North  Gate  (PI.  C,  2)  we  reach  a  watch-tower  called  Mor- 
gan s  Mount  (PI.  C,  2  ;  *View  from  the  platform,  including  Moel  Fammau  and 
Flint  Castle),  and  then,  a  little  further  on,  Pemberton  s  Parlour.,  a  semicircu- 
lar tower,  with  an  inscription  recording  repairs  made  on  the  walls  in  1701. 
Beyond  Pemberton's  Parlour  an  opening  has  been  made  in  the  wall  for 
the  railway,  close  to  Bonwaldestliorne' s  Tower  (PI.  B,  2),  at  the  X.  W.  angle 
of  the  old  city.  This  tower  is  now  used  as  a  museum  (adm.  6c?.);  and 
there  are  also  some  Roman  remains  (hypocaust,  columns,  etc.)  in  the 
little  garden  at  its  foot.  Bonwaldesthornes  Tower  is  connected  with 
the  out -lying  Water  Tower,  to  which  ships  used  to  be  moored  in  the 
days  when  the  tidal  waters  of  the  Dee  washed  the  walls  of  Chester. 
From  the  top  of  the  Water  Tower  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the  estuary  of 
the  Dee  and  the  Welsh  Mts.  Proceeding  towards  the  S.,  we  again  cross  the 
railway,  and,  after  passing  over  the  Water  Gate  (PI,  B,4),  observe  below  us 
(right)  the  Roodee  or  Roodeye  (PI.  A,  B,  4,  0),  a  picturesque  race-course 
(see  p.  274).  The  name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  a  cross  erected  to  mark 
the  spot  where  an  image  of  the  Virgin  was  found,  which  had  been  thrown 
into  the  Dee  by  the  sacrilegious  natives  of  Hawarden.  In  front  is  Qros- 
venor  Bridge,  crossing  the  Dee  in  a  single  bold  span  of  200  ft.,  said  to 
be  the  largest  stone  arch  in  Europe,  and  exceeded  only  by  one  of  220  ft. 
in  the  United  States.  Within  the  walls,  at  their  S.W.  angle,  is  the 
Castle  (see  p.  280).  The  wall  now  skirts  the  Dee,  and  at  Bridge  Gate 
(PI.  D,  5)  we  pass  the  picturesque  Old  Bridge,  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  the 
huge  Mills  of  Dee,  which  have  existed  here  in  one  form  or  another  for  800 
years.  On  the  left  we  get  a  good  view,  from  the  Bridge  Gate,  of  the  Bear 
and  Billet  Inn  (p.  276).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  King  Edgar's 
Field,  containing  the  so-called  Edgar's  Cave,  with  a  rude  Roman  sculpture. 
The  story  goes  that  in  971  King  Edgar  of  Mercia  was  rowed  from  this  point 
to  St.  John's  Church  by  six  subject  kings  or  chieftains.  Farther  up,  the 
Dee  is  crossed  by  a  Suspension  Bridge  (PI.  F,  4).  At  the  point  where  the 
wall  again  turns  to  the  N.  we  ascend  the  Wishing  Steps,  as  to  which  tra- 
dition declares  that  he  who  can  rush  up  and  down  these  steps  seven  times 
without  taking  breath  may  very  deservedly  count  upon  the  fulfilment  of 
any  wish  he  may  form.  From  the  next  part  of  the  wall,  the  only  part 
where  the  houses  of  the  city  are  built  against  it,  we  have  a  view  to  the  right 
of  St.  John's  Church  (p.  279)  and  the  Bishop's  Palace.  Crossing  the  New 
Gate  (PI.  E,  4),  we  now  regain  the  East  Gate,  where  we  started. 

The  most  characteristic,  and  indeed  the  unique,  feature  of  Chester 
consists  in  the  *Kows,  found  in  the  four  main  streets  converging  at 
the  market-cross.  In  the  Eastgate,  Bridge,  and  Watergate  Streets 
(PI.  C,  D,  3)  the  Rows  appear  as  continuous  galleries  or  arcades  occu- 

18* 


276     Route  40.  CHESTER.  Rows. 

pying  the  place  of  the  frcnt  rooms  of  the  first  floors  of  the  houses 
lining  the  streets,  the  ceiling  of  the  ground  floor  forming  the  foot- 
path, while  the  upper  stories  form  the  roof.  These  covered  passages 
are  approached  from  the  street  by  flights  of  steps  and  contain  a 
second  row  of  shops,  those  in  Eastgate  Row  being  the  most  attractive 
in  the  city.  In  Northgate  (PI.  C,  2,  D,  2,  3)  the  rows  occupy  the  ground- 
floor  and  recall  the  arcades  of  Bern  and  Thun.  The  most  interesting 
parts  of  the  Rows  are  in  Eastgate  and  Bridge  Street,  the  most  quaint 
of  all  being  the  Scotch  Row  on  the  W.  side  of  the  latter.  The 
Watergate  Rows  are  somewhat  less  interesting ,  but  the  street  con- 
tains the  three  finest  specimens  of  the  old  timber-built  houses,  in 
the  number  of  which  Chester  excels  all  other  English  cities.  God's 
Providence  House  (PI.  D,  3),  to  the  left  (S.),  is  so  called  from  the 
inscription  it  bears,  which  is  said  to  be  a  grateful  commemoration  of 
immunity  from  the  plague  in  the  17th  century.  The  house  was  orig- 
inally built  in  1652,  and  in  1862  it  was  carefully  reconstructed  in 
the  old  style  and  as  far  as  possible  with  the  old  materials.  Farther 
on,  on  the  same  side,  is  Bishop  Lloyd's  House  (PI.  C,  3 ;  1615),  with 
a  richly  carved  and  pargeted  front.  Passing  the  end  of  Nicholas  St. 
and  turning  down  a  small  entry  on  the  left,  we  reach  the  ^Stanley 
House  or  Palace  (PI.  C,  4;  1591^,  the  oldest  timber  house  of  im- 
portance in  Chester,  originally  the  town-residence  of  the  Stanleys 
(now  divided  into  small  tenements).  The  Yacht  Inn  (PI.  C,  4), 
where  Swift  once  lodged,  is  also  in  Watergate  St.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street  stands  Trinity  Church  (PI.  C,  3),  containing  the 
tombs  of  Matthew  Henry  (d.  1714),  the  commentator,  and  Thomas 
Parnell  (d.  1718),  the  poet. 

The  Bear  d'  Billet  Inn ,  at  the  foot  of  Bridge  St.  (PI.  D,  5),  was  for- 
merly the  town-mansion  of  the  Shrewshury  family.  The  Falcon  Inn,  in 
Bridge  St..  ha<  recently  been  to  a  great  extent  rebuilt.  The  antiquarian 
should  visit  the  vaulted  crvpts  in  the  basements  of  houses  in  Eastgate 
St.  (Xo,  34),  Watergate  St.  (Xos.  11  &  13),  and  Bridge  St.  (No.  12).  They 
belonged  to  old  religious  houses  formerly  on  the  same  sites,  and  appar- 
ently date  from  the  13th  century.  At  Xo.  39,  Bridge  St.,  the  remains  of 
a  Roman  hypocaust  are  still  in  situ. 

The  *Cathedral  (Pl.D,  3),  which  lies  near  the  centre  of  the  city, 
and  is  approached  by  Northgate  St.  and  Werburgh  St.,  is  built  of 
new  red  sandstone,  with  a  massive  central  tower,  and  embraces  de- 
tails of  various  styles  of  architecture,  from  Norman  to  late-Perpendic- 
ular. A  careful  restoration  of  the  entire  edifice  has  been  carried  out 
since  1868  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  and  Sir  A. 
Blomfleld.  The  dimensions  of  the  cathedral  are  as  follows :  length 
355  ft.,  width  75  ft.,  across  the  transepts  200  ft.,  height  78  ft., 
tower  127  ft.  The  nave  and  transepts  are  open  to  visitors  daily 
till  5  or  6  p.  m.  according  to  the  season;  adm.  to  the  choir,  lady 
chapel,  and  chapter-house  6d.  each  ,  or  2s.  6d.  for  a  party  of  5-15; 
to  the  Norman  crypt  6d.  each;  to  the  tower  Is.  each,  or  2s.  Qd. 
for  5.    The  daily  services  are  at  10.  15  a.  m.   and  4.15  p.  m.  ;  on 


Cathedral.  CHESTER.  40.  Route.     277 

Sun.  at  3.30  (no  sermon)  and  6.30  p.m.  also.  Organ  recital  on  Sun. 
after  the  evening  service. 

The  site  of  Chester  Cathedral  seems  to  have  been  already  occupied 
by  a  Christian  church  in  the  Roman  period,  and  afterwards  by  a  Saxon 
church  and  a  convent  dedicated  to  SS.  Oswald  and  Werburgh.  The  relics 
of  the  latter  saint,  who  was  an  abbess  of  Ely  in  the  8th  cent.,  were  brought 
hither  by  Elfreda,  daughter  of  King  Alfred,  in  the  year  875.  The  convent 
was  transformed  into  a  Benedictine  abbey  by  Hugh  Lupus  (p.  280),  with 
the  aid  of  monks  from  Bee  in  Normandy,  at  the  head  of  whom  was  Anselm, 
afterwards  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  The  extensive  abbey  was  not  com- 
pleted till  nearly  200  years  after  the  death  of  Lupus  (d."  1101),  and  the 
Norman  church  which  he  founded  floes  not  seem  to  have  stood  more  than 
a  century  before  its  re-erectiim  in  the  Gothic  style  was  undertaken.  Parts 
of  the  Norman  building  still  exist ,  however ,  in  the  present  cathedral 
(see  below).  The  next  oldest  portions  of  the  existing  church  are  the  E.  E. 
Lady  Chapel  and  Chapter  House  (1200-1270).  The  greater  part  of  the  choir 
is  of  the  early-Dec.  period,  with  geometrical  tracery;  while  the  central 
tower,  the  W.  front,  and  the  upper  parts  of  the  nave  and  S.  transept 
are  late-Perp.  (ca.  1485-90).  The  abbey-church  of  St.  Werburgh  became 
the  cathedral  of  Chester  in  1541  (comp.  above).  Considerable  remains  of 
the  secular  buildings  of  the  abbey  still  exist  (see  post),  and  afiford  a  good 
opportunity  for  studying  monastic  arrangements. 

Perhaps  the  best  general  view  of  the  exterior  of  the  cathedral  is  ob- 
tained from  the  city-wall  to  the  E.,  whence  an  interesting  historical 
study  may  be  made  of  the  different  forms  of  tracery  in  the  windows,  from 
the  E.  E.  of  the  Lady  Chapel  to  the  late-Perp.  of  the  clerestory  of  the  S. 
transept.  The  W.  front  contains  a  fine  Perp.  window,  but  its  general  effect 
is  somewhat  poverty-stricken,  and  it  is  besides  partly  masked  by  its  struc- 
tural connection  with  the  King's  tSchool,  a  fine  modern  building  by  Blom- 
field  on  the  site  of  the  old  episcopal  palace,  which  itself  replaced  the 
abbot's  lodging.  Among  the  other  mitable  points  of  the  exterior  are  the 
Tudor  S.  W.  Porch  with  its  parvise,  the  flying  buttresses,  the  curious 
insertion  of  a  doorway  in  the  structure  of  the  window  at  the  end  of  the 
"W.  ai<le  of  the  S.  transept,  the  apsidal  termination  of  the  S.  choir-aisle 
with  its  remarkable  steeple-like  roof  (restored  by  Scott  from  ancient  in- 
diL'ations),  and  the  fine  toothed  ornamentation  on  the  cornice  of  the  Lady 
Chapel.  —  In  the  modern  corbels  on  the  S.  front  are  grotesque  portraits  of 
Mr.  Gladstone  and  Lord  Beaconsfield   and   other   allusions  to  recent  times. 

Interior.  Entering  by  the  S.  Doorway.,  we  find  ourselves  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  Nave,  which  is  raised  by  a  few  steps  above  the  level  of  the  rest 
of  the  church.  This  is  the  best  point  for  a  general  view  of  the  interior, 
the  rich  warm  colour  of  the  stone  producing  a  very  pleasing  effect.  The 
elevated  W.  part  of  the  nave  is  late-Perp.,  while  the  rest  of  the  bays  of 
the  nave  and  also  the  S.  aisle  and  the  S.  transept  are  in  the  Dec.  style.  The 
wall  of  the  N.  aisle,  on  which  are  some  fine  mosaics  of  Scriptural  scenes, 
presented  in  1?86,  is  Norman,  and  at  its  W.  extremity  is  an  interesting 
fra<,'nient  of  the  Norman  church,  restored  as  a  baptistery.  At  the  other 
end  of  the  aisle  is  a  Norman  doorway,  leading  to  the  cloisters.  The  fan- 
vaulting  of  the  nave  is  of  oak,  and  was  designed  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  The 
large  boss  in  the  centre  bears  the  arms  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  (Karl  of 
Chester).  At  the  W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  is  the  Consistory  Court.,  with 
Jacobean  fittings.  Two  Hags  suspended  at  the  W,  end  of  the  S.  wall  of 
the  nave  were  present  at  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  —  Tlie  N.  Tkanskpt, 
which  we  enter  by  passing  under  the  handsome  modern  organ-screen, 
is  of  great  interest  for  the  examples  it  contains  of  early  and  late  Norman 
workmanship,  the  lower  and  earlier  portion  showing  much  smaller  stones 
and  much  wider  joints.  The  windows  and  the  Hat  roof  are  Perp.  ad- 
ditions. This  transept  contains  the  modern  monument  of  Bishop  Pearson 
(d.  1686),  the  learned  author  of  the  'Exposition  of  the  Creed\  The  stained 
windows  are  modern.  A  memorial  to  Randolph  Caldecott  (1846-5^6),  the 
artist,  w;is  placed  here  in  188"^.  —  The  Socth  Transept,  as  large  as  the 
choir  and  four  time;,  as  large  as  the  N.  transept,  is  a  curious  result  of  the 


278     Route  40.  CHESTER.  Cathedral. 

disputes  between  monastic  and  secular  clergy  which  formerly  played  so 
large  a  part  in  the  ecclesiastical  history  of  England.  The  monks  of  St. 
Werburgh,  anxious  to  extend  their  church,  were  unable  to  build  towards 
the  N.  on  account  of  the  monastery-buildings,  and  could  do  so  towards 
the  S.  only  by  annexing  the  neighbouring  parish-church  of  St.  Oswald. 
To  eflfect  this  scheme  they  gave  the  parishioners  a  new  church  in  another 
part  of  the  town,  and  ultimately  in  the  14-15th  cent,  built  the  present  S. 
transept,  on  the  site  formerly  occupied  by  St.  Oswalds.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  15th  cent.,  however ,  the  monks  were  compelled  to  re-admit 
the  parishioners  to  their  old  place  of  Avorship;  and  down  to  1880  the 
S.  transept  was  separated  by  a  partition  from  the  rest  of  the  cathedral 
and  used  as  a  parish-church.  Another  church  (St.  Thomas's)  has  now 
again  been  erected  for  parochial  use,  the  partition  has  been  removed,  and 
the  transept  has  been  partly  restored. 

*Choir.  The  early -Dec.  architecture  of  the  choir  is  richer  and  finer 
than  that  of  the  nave.  The  triforium,  only  indicated  in  the  nave,  is  here 
a  distinct  feature.  The  'Stalls  (15th  cent.)  are  perhaps  the  finest  specimen 
of  wood-carving  of  the  kind  in  England,  equalled  if  anywhere  by  those 
at  Lincoln  alone.  The  Episcopal  Throne.,  the  Pulpit.,  the  rich  marble 
flooring,  and  the  painted  oak  vaulting  are  all  modern.  The  Altar  is  con- 
structed of  olive,  oak,  and  cedar-wood  from  Palestine,  and  the  tesselated 
border  in  the  floor  in  front  of  it  is  composed  of  fragments  from  the  Temple 
enclosure  at  Jerusalem.  Most  of  the  metal  work  in  the  choir  is  by 
Skidmore  of  Coventry.  The  large  candelabra  by  the  altar  are  of  Italian 
cinquecento  work.  —  The  iV.  Aisle  of  the  choir  still  contains  a  few  relics 
of  the  original  Norman  building,  such  as  the  base  of  an  old  pier  at  the 
W.  end;  and  the  point  where  the  Norman  apse  ended  is  indicated  by  a 
line  of  dark  marble  in  the  floor.  The  present  E.  end  of  the  aisle  is 
late-Perp.  (ca.  1500).  The  interesting  little  Canons'  Vestry.,  now  entered 
from  this  aisle,  but  originally  from  the  N.  transept,  is  partly  E.E., 
partly  Norman  (W.  side).  The  S.  Aisle  now  again  terminates  in  an  apse, 
restored  as  a  memorial  of  Mr.  Thomas  Brassey,  the  railway-contractor, 
and  reproducing  the  original  form  of  the  E.  E.  choir.  In  the  middle  of 
this  aisle  is  a  tomb,  which  an  absurd  tradition  describes  as  that  of  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  of  Germany  (d.  1106),  who  is  really  interred  in  the  Cathedral 
of  Spires;  it  is  probably  the  resting-place  of  an  abbot.  Near  the  S.  door 
of  this  aisle  is  a  tomb  "believed  to  be  that  of  Ralph  Higden  (d.  ca.  1367), 
author  of  the  'Polychronicon". 

The  "Lady  Chapel,  now  entered  from  the  N.  choir-aisle  by  a  door- 
way occupying  the  place  of  one  of  the  original  windows,  is  a  good 
specimen  of  pure  E.  E.,  restored  in  the  original  style.  The  chapel  to 
the  N.  of  the  Lady  Chapel  formerly  sheltered  the  shrine  and  relics  of  St. 
Werburgh,  and  now  contains  the  canopied  tomb  of  Bishop  Graham  (d.  1865). 

TheTowER,  the  lower  part  of  which  seems  to  be  of  the  14th  cent.,  while 
the  upper  part  is  Perp.,  commands  a  good  view  (fee  Is.;  see  p.  276). 

The  'Chapter  House  and  its  vestibule,  entered  either  from  the  N. 
transept  or  from  the  cloisters,  are  also  in  the  E.  E.  style,  and  are  some- 
what earlier  than  the  Lady  Chapel,  with  which  they  vie  in  beauty.  In 
the  vestibule  we  should  notice  the  graceful  way  in  which  the  mouldings 
of  the  pillars  run  continuously  up  to  the  vaulting,  without  the  interposi- 
tion of  capitals.  The  Chapter  House,  which  like  other  early  chapter-houses 
is  rectangular,  contains  the  cathedral-library.  The  modern  stained  glass 
in  the  fine  E.  window,  depicting  the  history  of  St.  Werburgh,  is  the  best 
in  the  cathedral.     The  side-windows  have  double  mullions. 

Cloisters  and  Refectort.  The  conventual  buildings  of  St.  Werburgh 
lie  to  the  N.  of  the  church,  instead  of  occupying  the  more  usual  posi- 
tion to  the  S.,  a  fact  which  is  probably  due  "to  the  want  of  space  on 
that  side  between  the  church  and  the  boundary  of  St.  Oswald's  parish. 
From  the  cathedral  we  enter  the  Cloisters  by  the  Norman  door  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle.  The  style  of  architecture  is  Perp.,  and  on  the  S. 
and  part  of  the  W.  side  the  arcades  are  double.  In  the  S.  cloister,  which 
has  been  lately  rebuilt,  we  see  the  Norman  work  in  the  N.  wall  of  the 
nave;  and  at  its  W.  end  diverges  a  Norman  passage  leading  to  theN.W. 


St.  Johns.  CHESTER.  40.  Route.     279 

front  of  the  cathedral.  A  narrow  vaulted  chamber  in  the  early->'oriuan 
style  extends  along  the  W.  cloister  from  N.  to  S.  The  E.  cloister  is 
bounded  by  the  Fratry  (restored),  the  Maiden  Ai^le  (a  passage  leading  to 
the  old  infirmary),  and  the  vestibule  of  the  chapter-house  Tsee  p.  278). 
Near  theN.  E.  corner  is  the  staircase  leading  to  the  Dormitory^  which  formed 
the  second  story  of  this  part  of  the  building.  Several  of  the  early  abbots 
were  buried  in  the  S.  cloister,  as  is  Dean  Hoicson  (d.  1885),  one  of  the 
authors  of  a  well-known  'Life  of  St.  Paul'.  —  To  the  X.  of  the  cloisters 
stands  the  'Refectory,  an  interesting  E.E.  structure,  part  of  which  has 
been  cut  off  by  a  passage  made  from  the  cloisters  to  Abbey  Square.  It  con- 
tains a  very  fine  E.  E.  'Lector's  Pulpit,  with  a  staircase  in  the  wall  (near 
the  S.E.  corner),  an  arrangement  seldoui  met  with  elsewhere  in  England. 

In  Market  Square,  to  tlie  W.  of  the  cathedral,  stands  the  Town 
Hall  (PI.  D,  3),  a  building  in  the  Italian  style  with  a  tower  160  ft. 
high.  Nearly  opposite,  to  the  N.  of  the  King's  School  (p.  277),  is 
the  Ahhey  Gateway  (14th  cent."),  leading  into  Abbey  Square. 

We  now  follow  Foregate  St.,  as  far  as  Park  Road  ,  leading  to 
Grosvenor  Park  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  presented  to  the  town  by  the  late  Mar- 
quis of  Westminster,  to  whom  a  statue,  by  Thornycroft ,  has  been 
erected.  A  good  view  of  the  river  is  obtained  from  the  S.  side 
of  the  Park.  The  path  leading  to  the  W.  from  the  statue  leads  straight 
to  St.  John  s.  Near  the  church  is  the  'Anchorite's  Cell\  in  which, 
according  to  a  curious  legend,  King  Harold  lived  as  a  hermit  after 
the  battle  of  Hastings,  where  he  had  been  wounded,  but  not  slain. 

The  *Church  of  St.  Jolin  (PI.  E,  4),  finely  situated  above  the 
Dee,  dates  from  the  close  of  the  11th  cent.,  and  occupies  the  site  of 
an  earlier  Saxon  church.  It  was  here  that  Peter  de  Leia,  Bishop  of 
Lichfield,  set  up  his  throne  when  he  transferred  the  seat  of  his  di- 
ocese to  Chester  in  1076  (p.  274),  and  thus  St.  John's  may  claim  to 
rank  as  the  second  cathedral  in  the  city.  The  present  building, 
however,  is  a  mere  torso,  consisting  of  little  more  than  part  of  the  nave 
of  the  original  collegiate  church,  which  was  perhaps  a  finer  edifice 
than  St.  Werburgh's  itself.  The  choir  and  chancel,  now  in  pictur- 
esque ruin,  were  crushed  by  the  falling  of  the  central  tower  in 
1470 ;  the  W.  front  was  destroyed  by  a  similar  accident  a  century 
later  ;  and  the  massive  detached  tower  on  the  N.  W.  also  fell  in  1881. 
The  N.  porch  was  rebtiilt  in  1883  ;  the  N.E.  belfry  was  erectediu  1887. 

We  enter  by  the  N.  porch,  which  has  been  admirably  restored;  above 
it  is  the  ancient  and  battered  efligy  of  an  ecclesiastic.  The  'Interior  is  an 
excellent  example  of  simple  yet  stately  Norman  architecture.  The  beau- 
tiful triforium  is  in  the  Transition  style  and  dates  from  about  a  century 
later  than  the  bays  below;  the  clerestory  is  E.E.  On  the  S.  side  of 
the  chancel  is  an  E.  E.  crypt  or  'chapter-house'',  containing  four  interest- 
ing Saxon  crosses  of  the  9-lUth  centuries.  The  ruins  of  the  choir  exhibit 
some  very  fine  late  or  transitional  Norman  details  (key  kept  by  the  sexton, 
who  is  to  be  found  either  in  the  church  or  at  No.  1,  Lumley  Place,  a 
little  to  the  N.).  Accordins  to  two  singularlv  parallel  and  baseless  legends, 
Henry  V.  of  Germany  and^  Harold,  the  Saxon  king,  both  spent  their  l^ast 
years  in  seclusion  at  Chester  and  were  buried  in  St.  John's  (see  p.  278). 
—  Near  St.  John's  is  the  Episcopal  Palace. 

From  the  middle  of  Bridge  St.  (p.  276),  Grosvenor  St.  leads 
direct  towards  the  S.  W.  to  the  entrance  of  the  castle,  passing  on  the 
left  the  Grosvenor  Museum  and  School  of  Science  and  Art  (PI.  D,  4: 


280      Route  40.  HA  WARDEN.  Excursiom 

daily,  adm.  3d.).  The  museum  contains  Roman  altars,  coins,  and 
inscribed  stones  found  in  the  city ,  and  other  ohjects  of  local  in- 
terest. On  the  right  is  an  Obelisk  to  the  memory  of  Matthew  Henry 
(p.  276).  The  equestrian  statue  in  front  of  the  castle  is  that  of 
Field  -  Marshal  Viscount  Combermere  (d.  1865),  in  bronze,  by 
Marochetti.  To  the  right,  opposite  the  castle,  are  the  Militia  Bar- 
racks. The  Castle  (PI.  D,  5),  originally  built  by  the  first  Norman 
Earl  of  Chester,  noAV  consists  of  a  series  of  modern  buildings,  used 
as  assize-courts,  gaol,  and  barracks.  The  only  relic  of  the  Norman 
period  is  Julius  Caesar's  Tower,  on  the  side  next  the  river  (S.  W.),  a 
square  keep  used  as  a  powder-magazine.  This  tower  has  been  recased 
with  red  stone,  and  has  thus  lost  its  venerable  appearance. 

The  ancient  history  of  the  city  is  centred  in  that  of  its  castle,  upon 
which  a  flash  of  historical  interest  was  also  cast  in  modern  times  hy  the 
abortive  attempt  of  the  Fenians  to  capture  it  in  1867.  —  In  the  upper  story 
of  the  tower  is  a  beautiful  little  E.  E.  Chapel^  which  is  most  unjustifiably 
used  as  a  storehouse. 

The  Church  of  St.  Mary  (PL  D,  5),  a  good  Perp.  building  ad- 
joining the  castle  on  the  E.,  contains  a  few  old  monuments. 

The  Kings  Arms  Kitchen,  a  small  inn  close  to  the  East  Gate  (reached 
by  the  narrow  passage  to  the  X.,  inside  the  gate),  is  the  meeting-place  of 
a  mimic  corporation,  said  to  have  been  established  by  Charles  I.  The 
room  in  which  the  society  meets  has  been  fitted  up  in  the  old-fashioned 
style,  with  a  tiled  floor:  its  walls  are  covered  with  wooden  panels  bearing 
the  names  of  the  officers  of  the  corporation  for  the  last  200  years.  The 
chair  of  the  'Mayor'  is  a  handsome  piece  of  oak-carving  ,  above  which 
are  hung  the  mace  and  sword  of  state. 

Excursions  from  Chester. 
Eaton  Hall,  an  example  of  an  English  aristocratic  mansion ,  adorned 
with  all  the  resoui-c:;s  of  modern  art  and  fitted  up  with  lavish  expen- 
diture ,  is  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Westminster ,  a  descendant  of  Hugh 
Lupus  (p.  277).  It  is  finely  situated  on  the  Dee,  81/2  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Chester,  and  may  be  reached  either  by  road  or  by  river  (steamer  or  small 
boat,  see  p.  274)  ;  in  summer  a  public  brake  leaves  Chester  daily  for  Eaton 
Hall  at  2  p.m.,  returning  at  5  p.m.  (fare  is.,  return  Is.  Qd.).  Visitors 
to  the  hall  pay  a  fee  of  Is.  at  the  door,  and  tickets  of  admission  to  the 
gardens  (also  Is.)  may  be  obtained  at  the  Grosvenor  Hotel,  from  the 
Chester  booksellers,  or  at  the  garden-gate;  the  proceeds  are  devoted  to 
charitable  objects.  In  approaching  by  steamer  we  may  alight  either  at 
Ecclesfon  Ferry  (6d.),  about  IV23I.  below  the  hall,  and  walk  through  the 
park,  or  at  Eaton  Bridge  (fare  8d.),  just  above  it.  The  stable-yard  en- 
trance, by  which  visitors  are  admitted,  is  at  the  N.  end  of  the  building. 
The  present  house,  the  fourth  on  the  same  site,  is  a  magnificent  Gothic 
pile  erected  by  Waterhouse  in  1870-82.  In  front  of  it  is  a  bronze  Statue  of 
Hugh  Lupus,  by  G.  F.  Watts.  The  interior  is  most  sumptuously  fitted  up, 
and  contains  numerous  modern  paintings ,  including  several  family-por- 
traits by  Millais  and  a  few  works  of  Rubens.  To  reach  the  Gardens,  with 
their  extensive  greenhouses  and  fine  terraces,  we  turn  to  the  right  on 
leaving  the  house.  Visitors  are  allowed  to  inspect  the  house  and  wander 
about  the  gardens  without  an  attendant,  and  no  gratuities  are  expected. 
The  Stud  Farm  (a  group  of  red  buildings,  visible  from  the  garden-lodge, 
to  the  right  of  the  avenue  to  Eccleston)  contains  several  race-horses  of 
renown.  Those  who  wish  to  return  to  Chester  by  the  steamer  should 
make  enquiries  beforehand  as  to  when  and  where  they  can  meet  it-,  for 
the  convenience  of  visitors  to  Eaton  Hall  it  often  puts  in  at  the  bank  at 


from  Chester.  MOLD.  40.  Route.     281 

the  end  of  the  park,  1/2  M.  above  Eccleston  Ferry.  The  return-route  may 
be  varied  by  folloveing  the  avenue  that  leads  N.  W.  from  the  fine  iron 
gates  at  the  front  of  the  house  to  (2V2  31.)  the  Overleigh  Lodge  ^  a  few 
hundred  yards   from  the  Grosvenor  Bridge   (tramway,  see  p.  273). 

About  6  M.  to  theW.  of  Chester  lies  "Hawarden  fpronounced  Harden)^ 
the  residence  of  the  Right  Hon.  W.  E.  Gladstone,  a  station  on  the  railway 
to  Wrexham  (from  ^'orthgate  or  Liverpool  Road  station;  comp.  p.  273). 
The  house  stands  in  a  pictiiresque  park,  containing  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  park  on  week-days  from  10  a.m.  to 
sunset,  on  Sun  1-6  p.m.,  and  to  the  old  castle  on  week-days  only  (free  on 
Sat.)  from  1  to  6  p.m. ;  the  modern  mansion  is  not  shown.  The  ruins  of 
the  'Old  Castle  consist  mainly  of  a  massive  circular  keep,  the  top  of 
which  commands  a  good  view  of  the  Dee  valley:  it  probably  dates  from 
the  end  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  contains  a  chapel.  Hawavden  Church,  in  which 
Mr.  Gladstone  occasionally  reads  the  Lessons,  is  an  E.E.  building,  restored, 
after  a  destructive  fire  in  1857,  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  —  About  2  31.  to  the 
N.W.  of  Hawarden  (2V2  M.  from  Queen's  Ferry,  p.  283),  are  the  romantic 
ruins  of  Ewloe  Castle  (13th  cent.),  in  the  woods"  near  which  Henry  II.  was 
defeated  by  Owen  Gwynedd. 

A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  Beeston  Castle  (open  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  Frid., 
and  Sat.),  commandingly  situated  on  a  lofty  rock,  10  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of 
Chester  and  V*  31.  from  Beeston  Castle  station  (p.  351)  on  the  line  to  Crewe. 
The  castle  belongs  to  Lord  Tollemache,  whose  park  oi  Peckforton  is  adja- 
cent and  may  be  visited  on  application  at  the  lodge. 

Fkom  Chester  to  Mold  and  Denbigh,  29V2  M.,  railway  (L.  N.  W.) 
in  11/3  hr.  (fares  55.,  2s.  9<f.,  2«.  bVid.).  5  M.  Broughion  Hall-,  9  M.  Hope, 
both  within  easy  reach  of  Hawarden  (see  above).  At  (10  M.)  Hope  Junction 
we  intersect  the  line  running  from  Liverpool  and  Birkenhead  to  Wrexham 
(p.  273).  —  131/2  M.  Mold  (Black  Lion).,  a  busy  little  coal-mining  towu, 
with  a  good  I5th  cent,  church,  containing  some  fine  painted  windows. 
About  11/2  M.  to  the  S.  is  Tower,  the  curious  seat  of  the  Wynnes,  with  :i 
lofty  square  tower  of  the  15th  century.  About  1  M.  to  the  W.  is  Maes 
Garmon,  where  a  column  erected  in  1736  marks  the  scene  of  the  'Alleluia 
Victory',  said  to  have  l.een  gained  by  the  Christian  Britons  over  the  Saxon 
and  Pictish  pagans  in  420.  Pedestrians  may  walk  from  3Iold  to  Ruthin 
(p.  286),  either  direct  (9  M.),  or  over  the  top'  of  Moe I  Fammau  (p.  285),  the 
highest  of  the  Clwydian  hills  (*View  of  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  etc.).  —  At 
(29V2  M.)  Denbigh  we  reach  the  railway  from  Rhyl  to  Corwen. 

From  Mold  a  branch-line  runs  to  Coed  Talon\^/i  hr.). 

From  Chester  to  Manchester  via  Warrington  ,  31  M. ,  railwav 
(L.  N.  W.)  in  11/4-21/4  hrs.  (fares  55.  Sd.,  3s.  Qd.,  2s.  lOd.).  —  From  (7  M.) 
Helsby  a  branch  diverges  to  Hocton  (p.  328).  9  M.  Frodsham.  with  a  Nor- 
man church  close  by,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Runcorn  (p.  351).  —  At 
(16  31.)  ]yarrington  we  join  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  railway  (p.  338). 

From  Chester  to  Manchester  via  Northwich,  34  31.,  railwav  ('Che- 
shire Lines)  in  I1/4-2  hrs.  (fares  5s.  ^.d.,  2s.  lOd.).  —  Kear  (13  31.)  Hartford 
it  crosses  the  main  L.  N.  W.  line  (comp.  p.  3i5).  —  15  31.  Northwich 
(Angel;  Crown),  the  principal  town  of  the  salt-district,  with  15,000  inhab. 
and  several  salt-mines  and  brine-springs.  An  interesting  visit  may  be 
paid  to  the  Marston  Mine,  300  ft.  deep,  with  a  roof  supported  by  huge 
pillars  of  salt.  Nearly  two  million  tons  of  salt  are  annually  obtained  within 
a  radius  of  7  31.  from  Northwich.  The  frc'iuent  subsidence  of  the  earth, 
owing  to  the  pumping  out  of  the  brine,  gives  a  singular  appearance  to 
many  parts  of  the  town.  —  21  31.  Knutsford  (Angel)  is  the  '^^Cranford'  of 
Mrs.  Gaskell  (1810-65),  who  is  buried  in  the  churchyard  adjoining  the 
Unitarian  chapel.  The  1r;iin  now  passes  Tatton  Park  (Lord  Kgerton),  on 
the  left.  —  The  train  traverses  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Bollin.  28  31. 
AUrincham,  with  12,500  inhab.,  contains  numerous  villas  of  3Ianchester 
merchants.  —  34  31.  Manchester,  see  p.  3.38. 

From  Chester  to  Liverpool,  see  R.  42;  to  Bangor  and  Carnarvon^ 
see  R,  41a;  to  Crewe,  see  p.  361. 


282 


41.  North  Wales. 

The  district  usually  included  under  the  name  of  North  Wales  con- 
sists of  that  part  of  the  principality  lying  to  the  N.  of  a  line  drawn  from 
Aherystwith  to  Shrewshury.  It  contains  some  of  the  finest  mountain, 
coast,  and  valley  scenery  in  the  kingdom;  and  few  districts  of  similar 
size  can  vie  with  'Snowdonia'  in  the  amount  and  variety  of  its  natural 
attractions.  From  three  to  six  weeks,  or  longer,  are  necessary  for  any 
approach  to  an  exhaustive  tour,  but  a  flying  visit  to  some  of  the  finest 
points  may  be  made  in  a  few  days.  Numerous  circular  tours,  varying  in 
length  from  a  few  days  to  several  weeks,  have  been  arranged  by  the  L. 
N.  W.,  G.  W.,  and  the  Cambrian  Railways,  which  afford  the  chief  means  of 
communication  in  the  N.  and  S.  halves  of  the  district  respectively.  The  tours 
may  be  begun  at  Chester,  Shrewsbury,  Llandudno,  and  many  other  points, 
and  the  utmost  facility  is  given  for  breaking  the  journey,  adopting  alter- 
native routes,  and  the  like.  —  The  vessels  of  the  Liverpool,  Llandudno, 
and  Welsh  Coast  Steamboat  Co.  ply  daily  (twice  on  Mon.  and  Sat.)  in 
summer  from  Liverpool  to  Llandudno  (2V4  hrs.;  fares  45.  6c?.,  25.  Qd.\ 
Beatimaris  (3V4  hrs. ;  5s.,  3s.),  JSrmgro/' (41/2  hrs.),  and  Menai  Bridge  (05.,  3s). 

Three  days,  beginning  at  Chester,  may  be  apportioned  as  follows.  1st 
Bat.  Proceed  by  early  train  to  Bangor,  visit  the  Menai  Bridges,  go  on  by  train 
to  Carnarvon,  visit  the  castle,  and  take  an  evening  train  to  Llanberis.  2nd  Day. 
Ascend  Snowdon,  making  an  early  start,  and  take  the  afternoon  coach  through 
the  Pass  of  Llanberis  to  Bettws-y-Coed.  3rd  Day.  Proceed  by  railway  to 
Blaenau  Ffestiniog;  then  by  the  'Toy  Railway'  to  Port  Madoc;  by  railway  to 
Chester  (or  Shrewsbury)  via  Barmouth  and  Dolgelley,  stopping  for  the  night,  if 
time  permit,  at  the  latter.  Alternative  routes  for  2nd  and  3rd  days :  2nd  Day. 
Ascend  Snowdon  and  descend  to  Beddgelert ;  visit  Pont  Aberglaslyn;  drive 
through  Nant  Qwynant  to  Capel  Curig  and  (if  there  be  time)  to  Bettws- 
y-Coed.  3rd  Day.  Visit  the  waterfalls,  etc.,  near  Bettws,  and  return  through 
the  Vale  of  Conway  (taking  the  steamer,  if  the  hour  suit,  at  Trefriw)  to 
Conway  and  Chester.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  either  of  these  arrangements 
involves  a  good  deal  of  hurry  and  fatigue,  while  the  walk  over  Snowdon 
to  Beddgelert  should  not  be  attempted  except  by  fairly  robust  pedestrians. 
—  A  more  leisurely  tour  of  a  week,  for  moderate  walkers,  may  be  laid  oat 
as  follows.  1st  Day.  Early  train  to  Llandudno ;  walk  or  drive  round  the 
Great  Cyme's  Head;  in  the  afternoon  by  train  to  Bettws  {Conway  Castle  may  be 
included  if  time  allows).  2nd  Day.  Fairy  Glen  and  Falls  of  the  Conway 
(5M.);  walk  or  drive  through  the  Pass  of  Llanberis  io  Llanberis  (15V2  M.). 
3kd  Day.  Ascend  Snowdon  and  descend  to  Beddgelert.  4th  Day.  Walk 
or  drive  from  Beddgelert  to  Ffestiniog  by  the  old  road  (13  M.).  Cynfael 
Falls.  5th  Day.  Railway  (or  on  foot)  to  (3V2  M.)  Duffws;  'Toy  Railway' 
to  Port  Madoc;  railway  to  Barmouth  and  Dolgelley  (or  walk  from  Bar- 
mouth to  Dolgellev,  10  M.).  6th  Day.  Ascent  of  Cader  Idris  (up  and  down 
31/2-5  hrs.);  Torrent  Walk  (5  31);  Precipice  Walk  (6-7  M.,  if  time  and 
strength  permit).  7th  "Day.  Railway  from  Dolgelley  to  Chester,  stopping 
at  Llangollen  if  desired,  to  visit  Dinas  Bran  and  Plas  Newydd.  —  Tour- 
ists who  wish  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  N.  Wales  in  a  single  day 
will,  perhaps,  best  effect  their  purpose  by  joining  the  coach-route  ~So.  7 
(p.  286)  from  Llandudno,  or  the  coach,  which  makes  the  round  of  Snowdon 
from  Carnarvon  (p.  295).  In  summer  a  train  (L.  N.  W.  R.)  runs  from 
Chester  to  Llanberis  direct,  stopping  at  Rhyl  and  following  stations,  and 
returning  in  the  evening.  As  the  coaches  run  in  connection  with  the 
trains,  this  route  affords  opportunity  for  a  great  variety  of  day-excursions 
in  Snowdonia. 

Of  the  following  tours,  grouped  under  the  general  heading  of  'Xorth 
Wales',  the  sub-routes  a.,  b.,  and  c.  draw  a  cordon  round  the  district 
described,  while  the  others  deal  with  the  interior  of  the  circle.  To  Snowdon, 
as  the  great  focus  of  attraction,  a  separate  section  has  been  allotted. 
Abery^twith  and  Machynlleth,  frequently  included  for  touring  purposes  in 
N.  Wales,  are  described  in  R.  39  ('Central  Wales').     Those  who  wish  to 


HOLYWELL.  41.  Route.     283 

combine  S.  Wales  in  one  general  tour  with  N.  "Wales  will  find  no  difficulty 
in  joining  this  route  to  RR.  25-30,  either  from  Aberystwith  or  Shrewsbury. 
Tourists  will  find  a  slight  knowledge  of  the  pronunciation  of  Welsh 
names  desirable.  For  hints  on  that  point  and  other  general  remarks  on 
Wales,  see  the  Introduction. 

a.  From  Chester  to  Bangor  and  Carnarvon.    Llandudno. 
Anglesey. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  312.,  324. 
681/2  M.  Railway  (L.  N.  W.)  in  21/4-81/2  hrs.  (fares  125.  id.,  6s.  4c?.,  os. 
8V2(?.)-  To  Bangor,  60  M.,  in  I3/4-21/2  hrs.  (fares  IO5.  6d.,  55.  6d.,  4s.  111/2^.); 
to  Llandudno,  48  M.,  in  I1/3-21/4  hrs.  (fares  8s.  4c/.,  45.  5c/.,  3s.  lli/-2(?.).  —  'Jhis 
is  the  line  traversed  by  the  Irish  Mail  to  Holyhead  (p.  295).  The  railway 
skirts  the  sea  nearly  the  whole  way,  while  on  the  other  side  (left)  we  have 
more  or  less  distant  views  of  the  mountains. 

Chester.,  see  p.  273.  —  The  train  traverses  a  tunnel,  passes 
through  the  city-wall,  and  crosses  the  Shropshire  L'nion  Canal  and  the 
Dee.  To  the  left  lies  the  Roodee  (p.  275),  with  the  castle  beyond  it. 
The  line  skirts  the  Dee.  Before  reaching  (6  M.)  Sandycroft  we  cross 
a  small  brook  and  enter  Flintshire  and  Wales.  7  M.  Queen's  Ferry, 
near  Hawarden  (p.  281);  9  M.  ConnaKs  Quay  (p.  273).  We  now 
skirt  for  several  miles  the  desolate  and  sandy  estuary  of  the  Dee 
(the  'Sands  of  Dee').  13  M.  Flint  (Royal  Oak),  the  county-town 
of  Flintshire ,  is  a  smoky  little  town  with  5250  inhab.  and  some 
chemical  works.  To  the  right  are  the  'rude  ribs'  of  the  old  Castle, 
the  scene  of  the  meeting  between  Richard  II.  and  Bolingbroke 
('Richard  II'.,  iii.  3)  ;  it  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Edward  I.  On 
the  Cheshire  coast,  on  the  other  side  of  the  estuary,  are  the  small 
watering-places  of  Parkgate  (p.  273)  and  West  Kirhy  (p.  328). 

Beyond  (16  M.)  Bagillt.  on  a  wooded  knoll  to  the  left,  are  the 
ruins  ot  Basing werk  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  house  founded  by  the  Earl  of 
Chester  towards  the  end  of  the  12th  century.  15^2  M.  Holywell; 
the  little  town  (King's  Head)  lies  I1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station 
and  takes  its  name  from  the  sacred  Well  of  St.  Winifrid  (adm.  2d.). 

This  well  was  formerly  held  in  great  veneration,  ranking  as  one  of 
the  'Seven  Wonders  of  Wales",  and  still  attracts  Roman  Catholic  pilgrims. 
It  was  believed  to  have  risen  on  the  spot  where  the  head  of  St.  Wini- 
frid fell  to  the  ground,  cut  off  by  a  pagan  prince  whose  advances  she 
had  rejected.  The  red  vegetable  growth  on  the  stones  is  believed  by  the 
vulgar  to  be  the  stains  of  St.  Winifrid\s  blood.  The  Perp.  chapel  built 
over  the  well  is  attributed  to  Margaret,  mother  of  Henry  VII. 

Near(21  M.)A/osf^/Ti  is  Mostyn  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  ancient  fam- 
ily of  that  name,  where  the  'King's  Window'  is  shown  as  that  through 
which  the  Earl  of  Richmond,  afterwards  Henry  VII.,  escaped  from 
the  soldiers  of  Richard  III.  The  hall  contains  a  collection  of  Welsh 
antiquities  and  some  rare  old  MSS. 

Downing  Hall,  1  M.  from  Mostyn,  was  the  birthplace  of  Pennant 
(b.  1762),  author  of  the  'Tour  in  Wales'.  It  now  belongs  to  the  Earl  of 
Denbigh  and  contains  the  'Pennant  Collection'  of  MSS.  and  antiquities. 

To  the  right  we  soon  come  in  sight  of  the  lighthouse  on  Air 
Point,  theN.W.  extremity  of  the  Dee  estuary,  a,ndi  of  Hoylake(j^.  336), 


284     Route  41.  RHYL.  From  Chester 

at  the  N.E.  end.  Near  [27  M.)  Prestatyn  [Railway  Hotel ;  NantHall, 
1  M.  from  the  station)  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  Moel  Fammau 
(p.  285)  and  the  other  Clwydian  hills  to  the  left,  while  the  Great 
Orme  [p.  286)  may  be  descried  on  our  right,  in  front. 

30  M.  Rhyl.  —  Hotels.  *"Westminstee  ,  Belvoie,  Qdeen's,  facing 
the  sea.  Vs  M.  from  the  station-,  Royal,  Mostyn  Abms,  in  the  town; 
Alexandra,  Bee,  Dudley  Aems,  near  the  station.  —  Hydropathic.  —  Rail. 
Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Brakes  ply  daily  to  Duserth.,  Bodelwyddan,  St.  Asaph.,  Abergele  (fare  in 
each  case  Is.);  to  Llan'fair  Talhaiarn  (35.);  Colwyn  Bay  and  Llandudno  (os.) ; 
etc.    Also  on  Sun.  for  morning  service  at  Bodehcyddan  and  St.  Asaph  (is.  6d.). 

Steamboats  in  summer  to  Liverpool  (25.  &d.).  Llandudno  (2s.),  and  the 
Menai  Straits  (comp.  p.  282:  3s.). 

Rhyl  is  a  frequented  sea-bathing  resort,  with  a  good  beach,  an 
esplanade,  a  small  golf-course,  and  a  pier  (^adm.  2d.)  700  yds.  long, 
the  end  of  which  affords  a  fair  though  distant  view  of  the  Snowdonian 
mountains.  It  is  a  convenient  starting-point  for  excursions  in  the 
Vale  of  Clioyd,  at  the  mouth  of  which  it  lies. 

About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Rhyllie  the  ruins  of  Dyserth  Castle.,  the 
direct  and  uninteresting  road  to  which  crosses  the  new  Gladstone  Bridge. 
A  pleasanter  way  is  to  take  the  train  to  Rhuddlan  (see  below)  and  walk 
thence  to  (3  M.)  Dyserth.  The  castle,  w^ich  is  of  early  Xorman  origin, 
is  strikingly  situated  on  a  lofty  rock  (view).  The  walk  may  be  prolonged 
towards  the  N.E.  to  (2^/2  M.)  Newmarket.,  close  to  which  is  the  extensive 
tumulus  known  as  the  'Cop';  and  from  Newmarket  we  may  go  on  either 
to  (3  M.)  Prestatyn  (see  above)  or  to  (4  M.)  Mostyn  (p.  283)'.  On  the  way 
to  the  former  we  pass  the  extensive  Talargoch  Lead  Mine.  —  Bodelwyddan, 
5  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Rhyl  (brake,  see  above)  and  2'/2  M.  from  St.  Asaph 
(see  below),  has  a  beautiful  modern  church,  with  a  lofty  spire,  erected 
bv  Ladv  Willoughby  de  Broke  in  memory  of  her  husband. 

Fro"m  Rhtl  to  "Corwek,  30  M.,  railway  (L.  N.  W.)  in  13/4-2V4  hrs. 
(fares  5s.,  2s.  9d.,  2s.  6cf.).  This  line  traverses  the  Vale  of  Clwyd.,  a  pretty 
and  fertile  valley  (20  M.  long),  with  no  pretension  to  scenic  grandeur. 

3  M.   Rhuddlan.,  with  a  ruined  castle  of  the  12th  cent.  (adm.  2d.). 

6  M.  St.  Asaph  C Plough,  R.  &  A.  4^. :  Kinmel  Arms).,  a  quiet  little 
episcopal  seat,  situated  on  an  eminence  between  the  Clwyd  and  the  Elwy. 
The  'Cathedral,  which  is  the  smallest  in  the  kingdom,  being  only  182  ft. 
in  length,  is  in  its  present  form  mainly  a  Dec.  building  of  the  15th  cent., 
though  part  of  the  nave  and  aisles  date  from  the  second  half  of  the  13th 
century.  It  was  restored  in  18S7-75  by  Scott.  The  exterior  is  very  plain, 
the  most  conspicuous  feature  being  tlie  massive  square  tower,  ICO  ft.  in 
height  (small  charge  for  ascending).  The  interior  contains  carved  oak 
stalls,  some  good  modern  stained  glass,  and  the  monuments  of  a  bishop  of 
the  14th  cent.  (S.  transept)  and  of  Mrs.  Hemans,  the  poetess  (d.  18.35),  who, 
however,  is  buried  at  Dublin.  The  see  of  St.  Asaph  was  founded  by  St. 
Kentigern  about  the  middle  of  the  6th  cent.,  and  derives  its  name  from 
his  successor  (d.  596).  The  church  is  open  daily  from  8  a.m.  till  dusk. 
In  the  cathedral-vard  is  a  monument  to  Bishop  Morgan  (d.  16u4) ,  first 
translator  of  the  Bible  into  Welsh.  —  About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  St. 
Asaph,  in  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Elwy,  are  the  Cefn  Caves.,  in  which 
numerous  organic  remains  were  found.  The  caves  are  only  21/4  31.  from 
Trefnant.,  the  station  beyond  St.  Asaph. 

11  M.  Denbigh  (Crown;  Bull),  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  with  6400  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Clwyd  and  com- 
manded by  a  ruined  castle.  The  latter  (adm.  2d.),  dating  from  the  reign 
of  Edward  I.,  commands  an  extensive  view.  In  1563  it  was  granted  by 
Queen  Elizabeth  to  Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  who  afterwards  entertained 
the  Virgin  Queen  here  with  great  magnificence.  The  castle  afforded 
shelter   to   Charles  I.    after  the  battle   of  Rowton  (p.  274),   but  was   dis- 


to  Carnarvon.  LLANDUDNO.  41 .  Route.      285 

mantled  at  the  Restoration.  It  has  recently  been  partly  restored,  and  the 
interior  is  used  as  a  recreation-ground.  The  ancient  church  of  St.  Hilary 
(now  closed),  the  extensive  remains  of  another  large  church  begun  by  the 
I';arl  of  Leicester  but  never  finished,  and  the  (ild  parish-church  at  WhitchnrcJt 
(1  M.  to  the  E.)  ;.re  all  interesting.  Henry  M.  Stanley  is  a  native  of  Denbigh. 
Denbigh  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Jlold  and  Chester  (see  p.  281). 

141/2  M.  Llanrltaiadr.  The  church,  3/4  M.  to  the  W.,  contains  a  fine 
'.Tesse'  window,  said  to  have  been  purchased  with  the  contributions 
of  pilgrims  to  the  adjoining  sacred  well  of  Ffynnon  Dyfnog. 

19  M.  Ruthin  (Castle;  Wynnstay  Arms),  a  quaint  little  Welsh  town 
of  2760  inhab.,  contains  an  interesting  chiirch,  recently  restored,  with  a 
fine  oaken  ceiling  in  the  N.  aisle  and  a  modern  spire.  The  Castle  shared  the 
fate  of  many  Welsh  strongholds  in  being  captured  by  the  Parliamentarian 
general  Mytton  and  was  dismantled  after  the  Restoration.  A  handsome 
modern  mansion  has  been  erected  on  part  of  the  site.  Ruthin  is  a  good 
starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  Moel  Fammau  (1823  ft.),  the  highest  of  the 
Clwydian  range,  which  lies  41/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  -View  includes  the 
entire  Clwyd  valley,  Snowdon,  Chester,  Liverpool,  etc.  —  25  3J.  Derwen, 
with  a  church  containing  a  fine  rood-loft  of  the  15th  century.  —  At  (30  M.) 
Corwen  we  join  the  line  from  Chester  to  Dolgelley  (see  p.  308). 

On  leaving  Rliyl  the  train  crosses  the  estuary  of  the  Clwyd, 
affording  a  view,  to  the  left,  of  Rhuddlan  Castle,  the  tower  of  St. 
Asaph  cathedral,  and  th.e  spire  of  Bodelwyddan  church.  341/2  M. 
Abergele  ^^^  Pensam  (Bee,  Hesketh  Arms,  at  Abergele;  Cambrian, 
near  the  station),  the  former  1  M.  inland,  the  latter  a  small  sea- 
bathing resort  adjoining  the  station. 

Beyond  Abergele,  on  the  heights  to  the  left,  is  the  imposing 
turreted  mansion  of  Gwrych  (Mrs.  Hesketh),  which,  however,  con- 
sists to  a  great  extent  merely  of  frontage,  built  for  effect.  Immed- 
iately beyond  Gwrych,  the  huge  but  shallow  cave  of  Cefn  Ogo  is  con- 
spicuous in  the  cliifs  to  the  left.  —  39V2  M.  Old  Colwyn  (_Queen"s ; 
Marine  Hotel).  —  41  M.  Colwyn  Bay  (*Pwllychrochan  Hotel,  with 
fine  grounds,  Colwyn  Bay^  at  these  R.  &  A.  As.,  D.  4s.  6c?. ;  Imperial, 
near  tbe  station,  R.  &  A.  Ss.  6d.,  D.  3s.  6d.  ;  Hydropathic),  a  rising 
watering-place,  with  good  bathing,  and  numerous  pleasant  walks 
among  the  wooded  bills  and  valleys  to  landward.  To  the "W.  is  the 
village  of  Llandrillo  (Blue  Bell),  now  joined  to  Colwyn,  with  a 
curious  fishing-weir,  in  which  large  catches  are  sometimes  made, 
and  the  small  and  ancient  Capel  St.  Trillo,  built  over  a  spring. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  neck  of  the  promontory  ending  in  the 
Great  Orme  and  Little  Orme,  while  the  fine  estuary  of  the  Conway 
comes  into  view  in  front,  backed  by  the  mountains  of  the  Snowdon 
range.  From  (451/2  ^I-)  Llandudno  Junction  (Junction  Hotel; 
Ferry  Farm  Hotel;  Rail,  Rfmt.  Rooms)  a  short  branch-line  diverges 
to  Llandudno,  3  M.  to  the  N.  This  is  also  the  point  of  divergence  of 
the  railway  toBettws-y-Coed  and  Ffestiniog  (^R.  41d). 

Llandudno  (comp.  Map,  p.  311).  —Hotels.  Imperial,  Qceen's, 
St.  George's,  Marine,  ;ill  well  situated  on  the  Esplanade,  with  view  of  the 
sea,  R.  &  A.  abmit  45.  6d.,  D.  4-4s.  6d.,  pens.  U-Los.  per  day,  3i/2-4|S.  per 
week.  RoTAL,  Church  Walks;  North  W^esteun,  near  the  station,  1).  3*.  6d., 
R.  &  A.  from  3s.  6d.,  pens.  8s.  Qd.  (except  in  .luly  and  Aug.);  Prince  of 
Wales,  Lloyd  St.,  R.  &  A.  3s.,  table-dhote  3s.;  Alexaxdra  ,  Clonmel 
St. ;  Baths.  —  Isumerous  Boarding  Houses  (T-lOs.  a  day).  —  Hydropathic 


286     Route  41.         GREAT  ORME'S  HEAD.  From  Chester 

Establishments,  on  the  Esplanade  (patients  il.  per  week  in  summer,  3/. 
55.  in  winter;  visitors  3l.  10s.  and  3^)  and  under  the  Little  Orme's  Head. 

Cabs.  1.  By  distance:  Carriage  with  two  horses  Is.  Qd.  per  mile, 
one  horse  or  two  ponies  Is. ,  one  pony  or  two  donkevs  9d. ,  one  donkey 
or  1-2  goats  Qd.;  each,  addit.  1/2  M.  2d.,  6d. ,  4d..  Sd/—  2.  By  time:  per 
hour  5s.,  3s.,  2s.,  Is.  6d.;  each  addit.  1/4  I"".  Is.  3d.,  2d.,  Qd.,  id.  — 
3.  Special  fares  for  the  'Marine  Drive'  round  the  Great  Orme's  Head :  8s., 
5s.,  4s.,  2s.  —  Bath-chairs  Is.  per  hr.,  and  3d.  for  each  addit.  1/4  tr. 

Horses  2s.  per  hr.,  ponies  Is.  Qd.,  donkeys  or  mules  Qd. 

Coaches.  1.  Public  brakes  ply  round  the  Great  Orme's  Head  at  frequent 
intervals  (fare  Is.).  2.  To  the  Little  Orme''s  Head,  and  back  by  the  6-70^- 
daeth  Woods  (Is.),  also  several  times  a  day.  3.  To  Colwyn  Bay  (p.  285),  going 
by  the  Vale  of  Mochdre  and  returning  by  Llandudno  Junction  (15  31.-,  fare 
2s.  Qd.).  4.  To  Conway,  the  Sychnant  Pass,  Dwygyfylchi,  Penmaenmawr,  and 
back,  twice  daily  (fare  4s.).  5.  To  Bettws-y-Coed  by  the  W.  hank  of  the 
Conway,  returning  on  the  E.  bank  (fareTs.,  one  way  only  4s.  Qd.).  6.  To 
Bodnant  Hall  and  back,  every  Tubs,  and  Sat.  (fare  4s.).  7.  Circular  tour 
to  Conway,  Trefriw,  Llanrwst,  Bettws-y-Coed,  Capel  Curig,  Llyn  Ogwen,  Pass 
of  Nant  Ffrancon,  Bethesda  (allowing  time  for  a  visit  to  the  quarries), 
Penrhyn  Castle,  Penmaenmawr,  Conway,  and  Llandudno,  starting  at  8  a.m. 
and  returning  at  7.30  p.m.  (fare  for  the  whole  distance  of  56  M.,  12s. ; 
intermediate  distances  in  proportion). 

Steamers.  To  Beaumaris,  Bangor,  Menai  Bridge  (IV2  hr. ;  2s.,  return 
3s.).  and  to  Liverpool,  see  p.  282.  Special  excursion-steamers  also  make 
frequent  trips  in  summer  to  Beaumaris,  Bangor,  and  Menai  Bridge,  and 
back  (4-6  hrs.;  fare  2s.,  return  3s.;  to  Carnarvon  3s.),  to  Rhyl  and  back 
(41/2  hrs. ;  fare  2s.,  return  2s.  6c?.).  —  A  small  steamer  also  plies  in 
summer  from  Deganwy  (p.  288),  2  31.  to  the  S.  of  Llandudno,  up  the  river 
Conway  to  Conway  and  Trefriw  (1^/2  hr.  ;  fares  Is.  Qd.,  is.;  return  2s.  Qd., 
is.  Qd.)  ;  the  time  of  starting  depends  on  the  tide. 

Boats.     Sailing-boats  3s.,  Rowing-boats  2s.  per  hour. 

Swimming  Bath,  in  the  Pavilion,  near  the  pier;  adm.  6d. 

Concerts  in  the  Pavilion,  at  the  end  of  the  pier,  and  at  Riviere's  Concert 
Hally  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Promenade,  several  times  daily.  Band  on  the 
Pier  and  Esplanade- 

Llandudno,  the  most  fashionable  of  Welsh  watering-places  and 
a  good  starting-point  for  many  of  the  finest  excursions  in  North  Wales, 
has  a  population  of  7333  (1891)  and  is  frequented  in  the  season  by 
20,000  visitors.  It  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  narrow  peninsula 
between  Conway  Bay  and  Orme's  Bay,  facing  the  latter,  the  firm 
and  smooth  sands  of  which  are  finely  bounded  by  the  bold  limestone 
headlands  called  the  Great  and  the  Little  Orme.  Of  late  the  town 
has  extended  to  the  S.E.,  across  nearly  the  whole  width  of  the  flat 
neck  of  the  peninsula,  and  there  are  now  several  houses  on  Conway 
Bay  also.  On  this  side,  however,  the  beach  is  wet  and  somewhat 
muddy,  while  on  the  other  hand  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Welsh 
mountains.  The  climate  of  Llandudno  is  bracing  in  summer  and 
comparatively  mild  in  spring  and  autumn.  The  annual  temperature 
is  50.5°  Fahr.  The  bathing  is  good  and  safe.  Like  Brighton,  how- 
ever, Llandudno  lacks  shade.  The  Pier  (adm.  2d.),  which  is  1250  ft. 
long,  commands  a  capital  view.  About  ^4^^-  from  the  station  is  a 
golf-course  (9  holes). 

The  two  Orme's  Heads  afford  several  pleasant  walks  and  drives 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  town.  The  *Great  Orme's  Head  (680  ft.),  a 
huge  rocky  promontory,   rising  precipitously  to  a  height  of  700  ft. 


to  Carnarvon.         LITTLE  ORME'S  HEAD.      41.  Route.     287 

above  the  sea,  shields  Llandudno  most  effectually  from  the  keen  N.W. 
winds  and  forms  a  grand  feature  in  almost  every  view  of  the  town. 

The  ^Marine  Drive,  51/2  M.  long,  which  has  been  constructed  round 
the  face  of  the  clifls,  is  one  of  the  finest  drives  in  Great  Britain.  We  enter 
it  at  a  toll-house  (Id.,  horse  3d.,  carriages  6d.  per  horse),  a  little  to  the  N. 
of  the  pier.  The  road  ascends  steadily,  with  nearly  vertical  walls  of  rock 
above  and  helow,  to  G/2  M.)  Pentrwyn,  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  promontory, 
where  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  coast  to  the  E.  of  Llandudno,  with  the 
Clwyd  hills  in  the  background.  On  an  exceptionally  clear  day  the  Isle  of 
Man,  the  hills  of  Cumberland,  and  the  coast  of  Lancashire  may  be  seen  to 
the  right.  In  Vz  M.  more  we  pass  a  footpath  on  the  left,  leading  up  to  a 
farm-house  ('Old  Farm  Refreshments'),  and  1/4  M.  farther  on  is  another, 
diverging  at  the  foot  of  a  bluft' crowned  with  a  flag-staff,  and  ascending  to 
the  (5  min.)  old  church  of  St.  Tudno  (see  below).  At  the  extreme  N.  point 
of  the  promontory,  8/4  BI.  farther  on,  is  a  Lighthouse  (visitors  admitted), 
below  which  is  the  Hornby  Cave,  where  the  brig  'Hornby'  was  wrecked 
in  1824.  After  passing  the  lighthouse  we  gradually  obtain  a  splendid  'View 
of  Anglesey,  Puffin  Island,  the  coast  of  N.  Wales  from  Bangor  to  Conway, 
the  Conway  estuary,  and  the  mountains  of  Snowdonia.  Among  the  nearest 
and  most  conspicuous  of  the  last  are  (named  from  right  to  left)  Moel  Wnion, 
the  rounded  top  of  Y  Foel  Fras,  Penmaenmawr  (on  the  coast),  Tal-y-Fan, 
Penmaenbach,  and  Conway  Mountain  (the  last  two  in  the  foreground,  near 
Conway).  Farther  back,  to  the  right  of  Y  Foel  Fras,  is  Carnedd  Llewelyn, 
beyond  and  to  the  right  of  which  the  peaked  summit  of  Snowdon  itself 
may  be  descried  on  a  clear  day.  We  now  descend  along  the  S.  side  of 
the' headland,  passing  (I72  M.  from  the  lighthouse)  the  scanty  remains 
of  Gogarth  Abbey.  Conway  Castle  (p.  289)  is  well  seen  almost  straight 
ahead.  On  reaching  the  toll-house  at  the  exit  we  turn  to  the  left,  leaving 
Conway  Bay  on  the  right,  and  return  to  Llandudno  by  Abbey  Road. 

Walkers  should  not  omit  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  Great  Orme, 
either  direct,  by  a  steep  road  ascending  from  Church  Walks,  at  the  N 
end  of  the  town,  or  by  the  path  ascending  to  St.  Tudno"s  Church  from 
the  Marine  Drive  (see  above).  In  the  former  case  we  pass  Kendricks  Cave 
and  Camera  Obscura  and  enjoy  fine  views  of  Llandudno  as  we  ascend. 
Kear  the  top,  where  the  road  forks,  we  keep  to  the  right,  and  in  4  min. 
more  we  reach  a  gate  where  a  placard  points  out  the  path  to  the  old 
church.  [The  other  branch  of  the  road  leads  to  the  Telegraph  Station, 
now  an  inn.l  We  pass  the  'Farm  Refreshments'  on  the  left,  cross  a  field, 
and  soon  come  in  sight  of  the  church. 

St.  Tudno's  Church  is  a  small  building  of  a  most  primitive  and  unpre- 
tending character,  dating  from  the  loth  cent,  (restored  in  1855),  but  oc- 
cupying the  site  of  an  older  structure  (12th  cent.).  It  is  said  to  mark  the 
site  of  the  cell  of  St.  Tudno,  a  hermit  of  .the  7th  cent.,  who  has  be- 
queathed his  name  to  the  modern  watering-place  (Llandudno,  i.e.  church 
or  village  of  Tudno).  The  interior  (key  at  the  adjoining  'Old  Rectory 
Refreshments')  contains  an  ancient  font  and  two  inci.^ed  coffin  lids  of  the 
13th  century.  The  church  of  St.  Tudno  is  much  frequented  on  Sun. 
evenings  in  summer,  and  the  service  is  sometimes  held  in  the  open  air. 
From  the  church  we  may  continue  our  walk  to  the  lighthouse  (see  above) 
or  the  signal-station,  enjoying  extensive  views  of  land  and  sea.  —  The  old 
copper  mines,  above  the  Happy  Valley,  are  believed  to  have  been  worked 
by  the  Romans  and  ancient  Britons. 

The  *Little  Orme's  Head  (463  ft.)  looks  much  less  rugged  than 
its  big  brother,  but  a  closer  acquaintance  will  show  that  its  clifTs 
are  fully  as  picturesque  and  imposing. 

To  reach  them  we  follow  the  road  along  the  shore  towards  the  E., 
which  begins  to  ascend  about  IV4  M.  from  the  town.  About  V2  M.  beyond 
the  house  at  the  foot  of  the  ascent  there  is  a  break  in  the  wall  to  the 
left,  where  we  leave  the  road  and  ascend  across  turf  to  a  small  gate  On 
passing   through  the   gate  we  may  ascend  to  the  left,  direct  to  the  top  of 


28S     Route  41.  CONWAY.  From  Chester 

the  headland,  or  make  the  entire  circuit  of  it  by  following  the  path  to 
the  right,  soon  passing  through  another  gate  in  an  iron  fence.  The  sum- 
mit is  marked  by  a  cairn,  from  which  a  most  extensive  and  beautiful 
view  is  obtained,  including  Llandudno  and  Snowdonia  (comp.  p.  287)  on 
the  W.,  and  the  Clwydian  hills  and  vale  on  the  E.  The  seaward  edge  of 
the  headland,  with  its  cliffs  descending  sheer  into  the  sea  from  a  height 
of  300-400  ft.,  is  als  )  very  fine. 

On  regaining  the  highroad  we  may  continue  our  walk  to  O/4  M.)  a 
point  where  four  roads  meet.  That  to  the  left  leads  to  &/2  M.3  Llandrillo 
(p.  285)  and  CI  3I-)  Colwyn  Bay,  passing  near  the  old  farm-house  of  Pen- 
rhyn,  to  which  two  curious  legends  attach.  Either  of  the  roads  to  the 
right  will  bring  us.  more  or  less  directly,  to  the  (1  M.)  pleasant  wooded 
grounds  of  Gloddaeth  House  ^  the  seat  of  the  Mostyn  family.  The  curious 
tower  of  Llandrillo  Church,  with  double-stepped  battlements,  is  seen  in 
the  distance,  to  the  3eft.  The  direct  route  from  Llandudno  to  (2  M.)  Glod- 
daeth diverges  from  the  sh  ire-road  beyond  Craig-y-Don  Terrace. 

The  low  v.ooded  hills  to  the  S.  of  the  Little  Orme"s  Head  afford  many 
pleasant  ramhles.  The  best  point  of  view  is  'Tabo  Hill,  which  rises 
about  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Little  Orme,  and  about  3  31.,  in  a  direct 
line,  to  the  S.E.  of  Llandudno.  We  may  either  reach  it  by  the  Gloddaeth 
woods  (see  above),  or  follow  the  Conway  road  to  a  point  ^/2  M.  beyond 
the  village  of  (1^/4  M.)  Llanrhos  (Mostyn  Arms),  with  its  pretty  church,  near 
which  is  a  memorial  church  t)  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  opened  in  1895,  and 
then  diverge  to  the  left.  By  the  latter  route  we  pass  the  old  mansion  of 
(21/4  51.)  Bodus'-allen,  the  grounds  of  which  are  open  on  Tues.  and  Thurs., 
2-5  p.m.  —  The  favourite  boating-excursions  (comp.  p.  2S6)  are  to  the  caves 
in  the  cliffs  of  the  Great  and  Little  Orme,  which  can  only  be  reached  by 
water.  In  fine  weather  both  these  excursions  are  very  enjoyable,  and  the 
sheer  precipices  of  the  two  headlands  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from 
below.  Perhaps  the  most  interesting  cave  is  the  Llech,  in  the  Great  Orme, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  fitted  up  as  a  marine  summer-house  by  a  far- 
back  member  of  the  Mostyn  family.   Good  deep-sea  fishing  may  also  be  had. 

Conway  (see  below),  with  its  picturesque  castle,  is  within  4  M.  of 
Llandudno ,  and  may  be  easily  reached  by  road,  by  river,  or  by  rail. 
In  the  last  case  the  traveller  should  alight  at  Llandudno  Junction  and 
walk  across  the  Suspension  Bridge.  About  halfway  between  Llandudno 
and  Conway  lies  Deganwy  (Deganwy  Castle  Hotel),  commanded  by  a  small 
hill  (250  ft. ;  view),  which  is  crowned  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  castle 
built  by  Hugh  Lupus  (p.  277).  Deganwy  is  the  starting-point  of  the  small 
steamer  which  ascends  the  Conway  to  Trefriw  (comp.  pp.  286,  312).  The 
small  pier  lies  a  little  below  (to  the  X.  of)  the  railway  station.  At  Con- 
way the  steamboat-pier  is  just  above  the  bridges. 

"  From  Llandudno  Junction  to  Bettws-y-Coed  and  Ffestiniog^  see  R.  41d. 


Beyond  Llandudno  Junction  tlie  train  crosses  tlie  -wide  mouth 
of  the  Conicay  by  an  iron  Tubular  Bridge,  410  ft.  long  and  18  ft. 
ahove  high-water  mark,  constructed  by  Robert  Stephenson  and  Fair- 
bairn  in  1846-48,  and  similar  to  that  over  the  Menai  Strait,  though 
on  a  smaller  scale  (see  p.  293).  The  road  crosses  the  river  by  a 
graceful  suspension-bridge  (Id.)  by  Telford,   close  to  the  railway. 

451/2  M-  Conway  (Castle;  Erskine  Arms ;  Castle  View),  also  called 
Aberconway,  is  an  ancient  and  picturesque  little  town  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Conway,  formerly  strongly  fortified,  and  still  surrounded 
with  walls,  which  are  pierced  by  four  Moorish-looking  gates  built 
at  the  time  of  the  Crusades.  The  curfew  is  still  rung  here.  The 
Plas  Mawr  (adm.  6d.),  a  timber  house  dating  from  1584,  and  said 
to  have  been  once  occupied  by  Queen  Elizabeth  and  the  Earl  of 
Leicester,  now  belongs  to  the  Royal  Cambrian  Academy  of  Art,  the 


to  Carnarvon.  PENMAENMAWR.  41.  Route.     289 

annual  exhibition  of  which  is  held  here  in  summer.  The  interesting 
interior,  entered  from  High  St.,  has  some  quaint  carvings,  etc.  The 
Church  of  St.  Mary,  mainly  in  the  Dec.  style,  contains  a  fine  rood- 
loft  and  the  monument  of  Nicholas  Hooker,  the  41st  child  of  his 
father  and  himself  the  father  of  27  children. 

*CoNT\AY  Castle  is  finely  situated  on  a  rock  rising  above  the 
river,  and  as  seen  from  the  E.  (c.  g.  from  the  suspension  bridge)  is 
perhaps  the  most  beautiful  ruin  in  Wales.  It  was  built  by  Ed- 
ward I,  in  1284,  to  hold  the  Welsh  in  check,  and  was  designed  by 
Henry  de  Elreton,  the  gifted  architect  to  whom  we  also  owe  the 
castles  of  Carnarvon  and  Beaumaris. 

In  shape  the  castle  is  an  irregular  oblong,  the  walls  of  which,  12-15  ft. 
in  thickness ,  are  strengthened  by  eight  massive  ,  circular  towers.  Kach 
of  the  towers  was  formerly  surmounted  by  a  graceful  turret,  as  at  Car- 
narvon, but  only  four  of  these  now  remain.  We  enter  (adm.  3<i.),  at  the 
N.W.  angle,  by  a  flight  of  steps  ascending  to  the  W.  front.  From  the 
terrace  at  the  top  we  pass,  to  the  left,  through  a  portcullised  gateway,  into 
the  Great  Court.  To  the  right  is  the  Banqueting  Ball,  130  ft.  long  and 
32ft.  wide;  the  roof  and  lloor  are  gone,  but  the  level  of  the  latter  may  be 
traced  by  the  fireplaces.  The  Chapel  was  at  the  E.  end  of  the  hall.  Near 
the  E.  end  of  the  court  is  the  old  well,  beyond  which  we  pass  into  the 
Inner  Court,  enclosed  by  the  dwelling-rooms  of  the  castle.  The  X.  E.  or 
Queen's  Tower  contains  Queen  Eleanor's  private  oratory,  with  a  beautiful 
oriel  window.  The  tower  opposite  (S.E.),  called  the  King's  Tower,  has  a 
dungeon  below  it.  The  so-called  '■Brokfn  Tower  .  to  the  W.  of  the  last, 
lost  much  of  its  picturesqueness  by  reconstruction.  The  terrace  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  castle,  where  there  was  formerly  an  entrance  from  the  river, 
affords  a  good  view  of  the  Conway.  For  a  view  of  the  town  of  Conway 
visitors  should  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  walls. 

Edward  I.  himself  was  besieged  by  the  Welsh  in  this  castle,  and  is  said 
to  have  been  in  imminent  danger  until  the  subsidence  of  'Conway's  foaming 
Hood'  allowed  reinforcements  to  reach  him.  In  the  Great  Civil  War  it  was 
held  for  the  king,  first  by  Archbp.  Williams,  a  native  of  Conway,  and  then 
by  Prince  Rupert,  but  had  to  yield  to  the  Parliamentarians. 

On  leaving  the  castle,  visitors  may  take  a  pleasant  stroll  along  the 
wooded  knoll  of  Bodlondeh,  rising  from  the  Conway  just  to  the  X.  of  the 
town.  Farther  on  are  the  Golf  Links  on  Conway  Marsh.  —  To  the  W.  of 
the  town  is  (2  M.)  Conway  Mount  (807ft.),  or  the  Town  Hill,  on  the  top  of 
which  are  traces  of  a  fortified  camp  (fine  view).  We  may  follow  the  ridge 
westwards  to  Allt  Wen,  and  descend  into  the  Suchnant  Pass  (550  ft.), 
whence  we  may  either  return  to  (2V2  M.)  Conway  by  the  main  road,  or  go 
on  to  (i  M.)  Dwygyfylchi  (see  below),  Penmaenmawr  (2  M.;  see  below),  or 
the  (3/4  M.)  Fairy  "Glen  (see  below). 

As  the  train  leaves  Conway  we  have  a  view  of  Llandudno  and  the 
Great  Orme  to  the  right,  and  of  Conway  Mount  to  the  left.  We  pass 
uniler  Penmaenbach  by  a  tunnel,  beyond  which  Anglesey  and  Puffin 
Island  come  in  sight  on  our  right,  in  front.  To  the  left  are  Dwygy- 
fylchi (see  below)  and  Foel  Llys  (1180  ft.).  —  50  M.  Penmaenmawr 
(Penmaenmawr  Hotel;  Mountain  View),  a  pleasant  little  marine 
resort,  is  delightfully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the  same 
name  ('great  head  of  the  rock' ;  1550  ft.),  a  huge  mass  of  crystalline 
rock  descending  almost  vertically  to  the  sea  and  forming  the  north- 
ernmost buttress  of  the  Snowdon  range. 

A  pleasant  and  easy  walk  may  be  taken  to  the  pretty  little  Fairy  Glen 
(adm.  bd.),  either  direct  {P/i  M.),  or  via  the  village  of  Dwygyfylchi  (Doo- 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit.  19 


290     Route  41.  BANGOR.  From  Chester 

i-gi-vulchy;  Hotel)  and  the  Sychnant  Pass  ('dry  valley';  2V2  M.).  Penmaen- 
mawr  Hill  (ascent  1  hr.) ,  with  its  granite  quarries ,  is  crowned  with 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  fort  and  commands  a  view  ranging  from  Snow- 
don  on  the  S.  to  the  Isle  of  Man  on  the  N.  Good  walkers  may  follow 
the  semicircular  ridge,  of  which  Penmaenmawr  forms  the  N.W.  horn,  to 
(2'hTS.)  Foel  Llt/s  (1180  ft.),  and  descend  thence  to  their  starting-point.  On 
a  hill  about  halfway  round  the  semicircle  are  the  Melni-IIirion  ('long 
stones"),  a  circle  of  standing  stones  of  doubtful  origin.  The  direct  route 
from  Penmaenmawr  to  the  (2  M.)  Meini-Hirion  is  through  the  'Green  Gorge'. 

521/2  M.  Llanfairfechan  (Queen's;  Castle),  a  small  watering 
place.  —  55  M.  Aber  (Bulkeley  Arms),  a  village  situated  1/2  ^-  from 
the  coast,  at  the  mouth  of  a  lovely  glen.  Aber  lies  immediately  op- 
posite Beaumaris  in  Anglesey,  and  it  was  once  possible  to  cross  the 
sands  at  low  water;  several  persons,  however,  were  drowned  in  the 
attempt  in  1817.  In  the  middle  of  the  village  is  a  mound  called 
the  Mwd,  said  to  have  been  the  site  of  a  castle  where  Llewelyn 
received  the  summons  of  Edward  I.  to  surrender  his  principality. 

The  'Glen  of  the  Aber,  the  entrance  to  which  is  flanked  by  Maes-y- 
Gaer  (753  ft. ;  view)  on  the  E.  and  Fridd-du  on  the  W,,  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
of  the  smaller  valleys  in  Wales.  About  1/2  M.  from  Aber  the  road  crosses 
the  graceful  Pont  Newydd,  but  the  path  to  the  head  of  the  glen  and  the 
(iVz  51.)  "Aher  Falls  keeps  to  the  right  and  soon  crosses  a  foot-bridge. 
The  larger  fall  ('Rhaiadr  Mawr')  descends  in  a  series  of  leaps,  w^ith  a 
total  height  of  180  ft.,  and  after  rain  is  of  considerable  volume.  The 
smaller  fall,  V2  M.  to  the  W.,  lies  on  the  way  to  Moel  Wnion  (1812  ft.; 
'Oonion'),  the  ridge  of  which  offers  a  pleasant  route  for  returning  to 
Aber  (l-li/2hr.).  —  Aber  and  Llanfairfechan  are  starting-points  for  the  ascent 
of  Caniedd  Llewelyn  (p.  292;  4-4V2  hrs.),  via  Y  Foel  Fras  (3091  ft.). 

Beyond  Aber,  Penrhyn  Castle  (p.  292)  is  a  prominent  object  on 
the  right,  rising  from  the  woods.  The  train  crosses  the  valley  of 
the  Ogwen  and  threads  two  tunnels,  between  which  the  short 
branch-line  to  Bethesda  (p.  292)  diverges  to  the  left. 

60  M.  Bangor.  —  Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  lies  at  the  S.W. 
extremity  of  the  town,  V2  ^I-  from  the  cathedral ;  the  principal  trains  are 
met  by  hotel-omnibuses  and  cabs.  The  Steamboat  Pier  is  at  the  other 
end  of  the  town,  I1/4  M.  from  the  station. 

Hotels.  The  'George,  a  large  and  finely-situated  house,  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  Menai  Strait  and  Bridges,  lies  outside  Bangor,  I1/4  M. 
to  the  W.  of  Bangor  station,  and  1/4  M.  from  the  Menai  Bridge  station; 
R.  &  A.  from  4s.  6d.,  D.  4«.  Qd.  —  *Gastle,  near  the  cathedral,  R.  &A.  from 
45.;  British,  Railway,  Xorth  Western  Station,  Williams"s  Temperance, 
near  the  station.  —  In  Upper  Bangor,  3/4  M.  from  the  station,  Bellevtje, 
R.  &  A.  8s.  —  At  Garth,  Union.  —  Railway  Refreshment  Rooms. 

Cabs.  Per  hour  2s.  6(i.,  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  ?)d.  —  From  the  railway 
station  to  any  part  of  the  town  Is.;  to  the  George  Hotel  Is.  6d. ;  to  Menai 
Bridge  2s.;  to  Penrhyn  Castle  2s.  6d. ;  to  Bethesda  5s.  6d. ;  to  Penrhyn 
Quarries  6s.  6d. ;  to  Beaumaris  7s.  Carriage  and  pair  about  one-half 
more.     Driver's  fees  and  moderate  luggage  included. 

Coaches.  Coach  daily  in  summer  through  the  Pass  of  Nant  Ffrancon  to 
Llyn  Oguen,  Capel  Cvrig,' and  Bettics  y-Coed  (21  31.  in  5  hrs. ;  6«.).  Omnibus 
\o~Beaumaris  via  the  Suspension  Bridge  several  times  a  day  (7  M. ;  Is.  Qd.). 

Steamers.  To  Llandudno  and  Liverpool  daily  in  summer  (comp.  p.  282)  ; 
sometimes  also  up  the  Menai  Strait  to  Carnarvon.  Small  steamer  to  Beau- 
maris several  times  daily  in  summer  from  Garth  Point  (in  20  min. ;  fare 
6d.).  —  Garth  Ferry  (steam-launch)  across  the  strait,  Id. 

Boats.  Sailing'-boats  2,s.  per  hr.,  Is.  for  each  addit.  1/2  hr.;  rowing- 
boats  2s.  and  Is.  Boat  to  Menai  Bridge  2s.,  Britannia  Tubular  Bridge  3s.  6d., 
Puffin  Island  iOs.,  Carnarvon   12s.  6d.     Return-fares  one-half  more. 


to  Carnarvon.  BANGOR.  41.  Route.     291 

Bangor  ('high  choir'),  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  a  brisk  little  town 
with  9892  inhab.,  consists  of  Lower  Bangor^  containing  the  railway 
station,  and  Upper  Bangor,  the  pleasantest  residential  quarter ,  on 
the  ridge  separating  this  valley  from  the  Menai  Straits  and  terminat- 
ing in  Garth  Point,  to  the  N.,  with  a  new  steamboat-pier.  The  town 
is  an  excellent  centre  for  excursions  in  N.  Wales,  but  lacks  the 
bathing  and  other  attractions  of  a  seaside  place.  Port  Penrhyn,  the 
harbour  of  Bangor,  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  lower  town,  and  carries  on 
a  busy  traflic  in  slates. 

The  Cathedral,  in  a  low-lying  situation  near  the  middle  of 
the  town,  is  among  the  smallest  and  plainest  of  English  minsters, 
but  possesses  some  architectural  interest.  The  original  church  on 
this  site  seems  to  have  been  erected  in  the  6th  century,  and  was 
followed  by  three  others,  the  first  of  which  was  destroyed  in  1071, 
the  second  during  the  Welsh  wars  of  Edward  I.  (ca.  1282),  and  the 
third  by  Owen  Glendower  in  1404.  The  choir  was  rebuilt  about 
1496,  and  the  rest  of  the  building  early  in  the  16th  century.  A 
complete  restoration  was  undertaken  in  1870,  superintended  by 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott.  In  style  it  affords  examples  of  E.  E.,  Dec,  and 
Perpendicular.    The  central  tower  has  not  yet  been  completed. 

Interior.  The  interior  of  the  church  is  plain  but  harmonious.  The 
nave  and  aisles  have  flat  timber  roofs,  while  the  choir  has  good  vaulting. 
The  nave,  the  presbytery,  and  the  choir-windows  are  Perpendicular.  The 
rest  of  the  choir,  the  transepts,  and  the  S.  aisle-windows  are  Decorated. 
In  the  S.  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Owen  Gwynedii,  Prince  of  Wales  (d.  1169). 
At  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  are  some  ancient  tiles  and  a  curious  in- 
ciaed  tombstone,  found  in  the  Lady  Chapel.  —  The  Sun.  services  are 
held  at  8,  11.30,  and  4,  week-day  services  at  8  and  5  (3  in  winter). 

The  Bishop" s  Palace  and  the  Deanery  adjoin  the  Cathedral. 

Bangor  is  the  seat  of  the  University  College  of  North  Wales. 
which  is  established  in  a  large  and  plain  building  at  the  E.  end  of 
the  town.  The  college,  founded  in  1883,  has  130  students,  numer- 
ous open  scholarships,  and  excellent  biological  and  other  labora- 
tories. Visitors  should  apply  at  the  university-building.  —  There 
are  also  an  Independent  and  a  Baptist  College  at  Bangor. 

In  the  High  St.,  between  the  Cathedral  and  the  station,  is  a  Pub- 
lic Library  and  Museum,  containing  a  small  ethnological  collection. 
The  steep  slope  of  the  gorse-clad  hill  forming  the  S.  boundary  of  the 
valley  in  which  the  town  lies  has  been  laid  out  as  Recreation 
Grounds,  affording  admirable  views  to  seaward,  including  the  Great 
Orme's  Head.  A  wall  at  the  top  shuts  out  the  view  of  the  Snowdoii 
region  ,  but  the  visitor  may  see  it  by  extending  his  walk  to  Felin 
Esgob,  or  the  Bishop's  Mill,  Y-2  M.  to  the  S.  —  The  Menai  Park  in 
Upper  Bangor  commands  fine  views  of  the  Menai  Strait  and  Bridges. 
—  Off  Garth  lies  the  'Clio'  training-ship  (adm.  10-4,  1«.). 

Penrhtn  Castle  and  Quarries.  Tourists  who  do  not  walk  or  drive 
the  whole  wav  mav  take  the  train  to  (6  M.)  Bethesda  (is.,  9d.,  (i<7.),  visit 
the  (1  M.)  Slate  Quarries,  and  walk  back  to  Bangor  via  the  Castle  (6  M.). 
Public  waggonettes  also  ply  between  Bangor  and  Bethesda  (fare  Qd.).  The 
milestones  count  from  the  E.  end  of  Banior,  1  M.  from  the  station. 

19* 


292     Route  41.  BETHESDA.  From  Chester 

Bethesda  (Douglas  Arms,  Victoria,  Waterloo,  all  second  class),  now  a 
busy  and  ugly  little  quarrymen's  town  with  about  BOOOinhab.,  was  for- 
merly a  small  and  pretty  village  named  Glan  Ogwen.  Most  of  tbe  quar- 
rymen  are  Methodists.  —  To  reach  the  quarries  we  cross  the  bridge  1/2  M. 
to  the  S.  of  the  centre  of  the  town  and  ascend  to  the  left  to  G/2  M.)  the 
entrance,  where  we  meet  the  guide.  No  charge  is  made  for  admission,  but 
the  guide  expects  a  small  fee.  The  interesting  blasting  operations  take 
place  at  25  min.  past  each  hour;  the  dinner-hour  (11.30  to  12.30)  should 
be  avoided. 

The  Penehyn  Slate  Quarries,  the  largest  in  the  world,  employ  up- 
wards of  3000  quarrymen  and  produce  about  360  tons  of  slate  per"  day. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  quarry  is  that  of  a  huge  amphitheatre,  the 
successive  steps  or  terraces  of  which  are  each  about  50  ft,  in  height.  At 
present  the  quarry  is  about  1000  ft.  deep,  and  it  is  calculated  that  there 
are  still  1800  ft.  of  slate  to  exhaust  before  the  underlying  Cambrian  grit 
is  reached.  Small  tramway-lines  traverse  each  terrace  to  convey  the  slate 
to  the  hydraulic  lifts,  which  raise  it  to  the  surface,  whence  it  is  dispatched 
to  Port  Penrhyn  by  a  small  narrow-gauge  railway.  The  quarrymen,  who 
(in  good  times)  earn  25-30s.  a  week,  work  in  gangs  of  four,  two  devoting 
themselves  to  the  actual  quarrying  of  the  slate,  and  the  other  two  split- 
ting and  dressing  it.  The  latter  operations  are  interesting  to  watch,  and 
the  visitor  may  try  his  hand  at  splitting,  a  feat  by  no  means  so  easy  as 
it  looks.  Only  about  10-15  per  cent  of  the  slate  quarried  is  of  any  com- 
mercial value.  Four  difierent  kinds  of  slate  —  red,  blue,  green,  and  gray 
—  are  found  in  this  one  quarry.  The  dressed  slates  are  classed  in  different 
sizes,  named  queens,  duchesses,  countesses,  and  ladies.  Each  size  must  be 
of  a  certain  thickness;  thus  if  a 'queen'  is  found  thinner  than  the  standard 
she  must  be  cut  down  to  a  'duchess'.  —  Various  little  obiects  carved  in 
slate  may  be  purchased  at  the  entrance. 

In  returning  from  Bethesda  to  Bangor  by  road  we  enjoy  a  fine  view 
of  the  sea ,  Anglesey,  the  Great  Orme ,  and  Penmaenmawr,  while  behind 
us  are  the  Mts.  enclosing  the  pass  of  Nant  Ffrancon  (p.  315).  —  Penrhyn 
Castle  is  also  prominent.  We  reach  the  entrance  to  th3  park  at  the  model- 
village  of  Llandegai.  with  its  pretty  church  (containing  the  tomb  of  Archbp. 
Williams,  p.  289),  3  M.  from  Bethesda  and  1  M.  from  Bangor.  —  Instead 
of  keeping  to  the  high-road  all  the  way,  we  may  descend  from  the  bridge 
leading  to  the  quarry  (see  above)  by  a  cart-track  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
stream,  which  rejoins  the  road  at  a  bridge  about  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  Bethesda. 

Penrhyn  Castle  (adm.  on  Tues.,  and  in  the  absence  of  the  family  also 
on  Thurs.,  by  tickets  obtainable  at  the  Bangor  hotels;  hours  10-5,  when 
the  family  is  at  home  3-5;  1  pers.  2s.,  each  addit.  pers.  is.,  no  gratuities), 
the  seat  of  Lord  Penrhyn,  owner  of  the  quarries,  is  a  large  and  hand- 
some building,  in  which  the  difficulty  of  accommodating  the  Norman  style 
of  architecture  to  modern  domestic  requirements  has  been  skilfully  grap- 
pled with.  The  keep  is  an  imitation  of  Rochester  Castle.  The  interior 
(visitors  ring  at  the  entrance  in  the  keep)  contains  fine  carvings  in  oak, 
ebony,  slate,  and  Anglesey  marble,  a  '•Hirlas  Horn''  (an  heirloom  of  the 
Elizabethan  period),  and  a  few  good  pictures.  *View  from  the  towers. 
On  leaving  the  house  we  should  walk  through  the  shady  park  to  Port 
Penrhyn  (p.  291). 

Bethesda  is  a  good  starting-point  for  ascending  Carnedd  Dafydd  (3426  ft.) 
and  Carnedd  Llewelyn  (3484  ft.),  twin-peaks,  inferior  in  height  to  Snow- 
don  alone  among  Welsh  mountains.  The  ascent  of  the  former  takes  2-3  hrs., 
and  the  top  of  Carnedd  Llewelyn,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  narrow 
saddle,  flanked  on  the  W.  by  line  precipitous  cliffs,  may  be  reached  in  1  hr. 
more.  The  *View  from  these  summits  is  very  similar,  embracing  the  sea, 
Anglesey,  and  the  Ormes  to  the  N. ;  the  Conway  valley  to  the  E.;  Moel 
Siabod  and  Cader  Idris  (in  the  distance)  to  the  S. ;  the  pyramidal  Tryfan 
and  the  Glyders ,  with  Snowdon  in  the  background,  to  the  S.W.  ;"and 
Elidyr  Fawr  to  the  W.  —  The  descent  may  be  made  to  Capel  Curig  (p.  321), 
Aber  (p.  289),  or  Tal-y-Cafn  (p.  312).  —  A  coach  runs  daily  in  summer 
from  Bethesda  to  Lly'n  Ogwen  (return-fare  2«.  Qd.). 

The  drive  between  Bangor  and  Bettws-y-Coed,  through  Nant  Ffrancon, 


to  Carnarvon.  ANGLESEY.  41.  Route.     293 

is  described  at  p.  315.  —  The  ascent  of  SnowdonmSi\  be  made  from  Bangor 
in  one  day  with  the  aid  of  the  train  to  Llanberis  via  Carnarvon. 

The  two  magnificent  bridges,  crossing  the  Menai  Strait  and  con- 
necting the  mainland  with  the  island  of  Anglesey,  form  the  great 
centre  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bangor.  The  *Menai 
Suspension  Bridge,  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  was  constructed 
by  Telford  in  1819-26,  and  is  a  marvel  of  strength  and  elegance. 
To  reach  the  still  more  wonderful  *Britannia  Tubular  Bridge,  1  M. 
to  the  S.,  we  cross  the  Suspension  Bridge  (Id.)  and  follow  the  road 
to  the  left  on  the  Anglesey  bank. 

The  Suspension  Bridge  is  580  ft.  long  from  pier  to  pier,  and  1000  ft, 
over  all;  and  the  roadway  is  100  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  water  at  hiirh 
tide.  Each  of  the  16  chains  by  which  it  is  supported  is  1735  ft.  in  length 
and  is  passed  through  60  ft.  of  solid  rock  at  each  end.  By  applying  at 
the  cottage  at  the  Anglesey  end  of  the  bridge,  the  traveller  may  be  con- 
ducted underground  to  the  place  where  the  chains  are  fastened.  The  Menai 
Bridge  is  still  the  longest  suspension-bridge  in  England;  but  it  is  not  so 
long  as  the  suspension-bridge  over  the  Danube  at  Budapest,  the  Brooklyn 
Bridge  over  the  East  River  at  Kew  York,  and  some  others.  The  bridge 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Jlenai  Strait,  the  Tubular  Bridge,  etc. 

The  Tubular  Bridge,  which  was  built  by  Eobert  Stephenson  in  1846- 
50,  consists  of  two  parallel  rectangular  tubes  or  tunnels,  formed  by  the 
combination  of  innumerable  small  tubes,  firmly  rivetted  together.  The 
material  is  wrought  iron,  in  plates  of  V-*l  ^Jich  in  thickness.  The  tubes 
rest  upon  five  piers,  one  on  the  shore  at  each  end  and  three  in  the  water. 
The  central  tower,  resting  on  the  Britannia  rock  which  gives  name  to 
the  bridge,  is  230  ft.  high,  and  the  line  of  rails  is  104  ft.  above  the  water 
The  entire  bridge  is  1840  ft.  in  length ;  each  of  the  two  central  spans  is 
460  ft.  long,  each  of  the  side -spans  230  ft.  The  total  weight  of  iron 
in  the  bridge  is  upwards  of  11,000  tons.  In  the  construction  of  the  bridge 
the  chief  difficulty  was  found  in  fioating  the  large  central  sections  of  the 
tube,  each  weighing  1600  tons,  into  their  site  with  the  aid  of  pontoons, 
and  then  elevating  them  and  placing  them  on  the  towers  by  huge  hydrau- 
lic engines.  Allowance  has  been  made,  by  the  use  of  movable  rollers, 
for  the  expansion  of  the  metal  by  the  summer-heat,  which  sometimes 
increases  the  length  of  the  structure  by  nearly  a  foot.  On  buttresses  at 
each  end  of  the  bridge  are  colossal  stone  figures  of  lions  cnuchant,  12  ft. 
high  and  25  ft.  long.  To  the  inexperienced  eye  this  bridge  may  at  first 
appear  somewhat  insignificant,  but  a  closer  inspection,  especially  from  be- 
low, soon  produces  a  more  adequate  appreciation  of  its  enormous  pro- 
portions. To  examine  the  interior  a  pass  from  the  engineer  at  Bangor 
Station  is  required.  To  reach  the  beach  below  the  bridge  we  follow  a 
footpath  diverging  to  the  right  (N.)  at  the  Anglesey  end. 

The  excursion  from  Bangor  to  the  Bridges  maybe  made  in  many  ways. 
Menai  Bridge  station  (p.  295)  is  not  far  from  the  Suspension  Bridge,  and 
Treborth  (p .  295)  is  near  the  Britannia  Bridge.  The  Beaumaris  omnibus 
(p.  290)  crosses  the  Suspension  Bridge.  Pedestrians  may  walk  from  Bangor 
to  the  Bridges,  cross  the  Suspension  Bridge,  follow  the  Anglesey  shore  to 
Beaumaris  (41/2  M.)  ,  and  return  thence  by  steamer  (in  all  about  12  M.  of 
walking).   The  Bridges  may  also  be  visited  by  boat  (p.  2i)0). 

The  Island  of  Anglesey  ('Isle  of  the  English)  or  Mona  (Mon, 
derivation  uncertain),  which  is  about  300  sq.  M.  in  extent  and 
contains  50,079  inhab.,  offers  few  picturesque  features  beyond 
Beaumaris  Castle,  the  walk  along  the  Menai  Strait,  Penmon  Priory, 
Red  Wharf  Bay,  and  the  island  of  Holyhead.  It  contains,  however, 
numerous  cromlechs,  menhirs,  and  other  antiquities. 

On  a  knoll  adjoining  the  Holyhead  road,  1,4  M.  from  the  Tubular 
Bridge,  rises  the  Anglesey  Column,  erected  in  1816  in  memory  of  the  Mar- 


294     Route  41.  BEAUMARIS.  '  From  Chester 

quis  of  Anglesey,  second  in  command  at  Waterloo.  The  top  (90  ft.;  adm. 
3d.)  commands  a  splendid  *Panorama  of  Anglesey,  the  Menai  Straits,  and 
the  Carnarvonshire  Mts.  —  Plas  Newi/dd^  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesey, 
lies  IV4  M.  to  the  S.;  the  grounds,  containing  two  cromlechs,  are  open  to 
the  public  in  the  absence  of  the  family. 

Beaumaris  (Williams-Bulkeley  Arms^  opposite  the  pier,  R.  &  A.  from 
4s.,  D.  4s.  6d.,  pens.  10s.  6d. ;  Liverpool  Arms^  pens.  8s.  6d.^,  is  a  quiet 
little  watering-place,  the  chief  charm  of  which'is  the  fine  view  it  commands 
of  the  opposite  coast,  with  the  Snowdonian  mountains  in  the  background. 
The  Church  dates  from  the  13th  cent.,  with  a  choir  of  the  16th  century. 
The  name  Beaumaris,  locally  pronounced  'Bewmorris',  is  derived  from  its 
low-lying  site  ('beau  marais').  —  Routes  from  Bangor,  see  p.  290.  The 
Liverpool  steamers  also  call  here  in  summer  (comp.  p.  282). 

'Beaumaris  Castle  (adm.  2d.),  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  is  another  of 
the  Welsh  fortresses  due  to  the  vigour  of  Edward  I.  and  the  genius  of 
Henry  de  Elreton  (comp.  pp.  289,  295).  It  is  an  extensive  ruin,  and  in 
ground-plan  is  not  very  dissimilar  to  the  castles  of  Carnarvon  and  Con- 
way; but  it  cannot  compete  with  either  of  these  ruins  in  external  pictur- 
esqueness.  The  castle  proper  is  surrounded  by  an  outer  line  of  circum- 
vallation,  also  strengthened  with  circular  towers.  The  interior  of  the  large 
central  court  is,  however,  very  beautiful.  We  enter  the  quadrangle  on  the 
S.  side,  and  see  before  us,  at"  the  N.  end,  the  remains  of  the  Great  Hall, 
70  ft.  long  and  24  ft.  broad,  lighted  by  five  beautifully-traceried  windows 
and  draped  with  luxuriant  ivy.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  court,  on  the  first 
floor,  is  the  Chapel,  an  E.  E.  room  with  a  Dec.  arcade  round  it  and  four 
squints  at  the  W.  end'.  The  various  remains  of  the  domestic  apartments 
are  also  interesting.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  court  are  the  bases  of  large 
circular  towers  and  other  indications  that  apartments  similar  to  those  at 
the  N.  end  once  stood  here.  Fine  views  may  be  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  walls.    The  history  of  the  castle  is  uninteresting. 

The  grounds  of  Baron  Hill,  the  seat  of  the  Bulkelev  family,  on  the  hill 
behind  Beaumaris,  are  open  onThurs.,  Sat.,  and  Sun.  afternoons.  The  lofty 
Obelisk,  prominent  in  most  views  of  Beaumaris,  is  a  memorial  to  Sir  Rich. 
Bulkelev  (d.  1875).  —  Henllys,  the  seat  of  Col.  Lewis,  1  M.  to  the  2v\W.  of 
Beaumaris,  contains  a  few  paintings,  and  in  the  garden  of  the  lodge  next 
the  town  ('Curiosity  Lodge')  is  a  collection  of  old  stone  fonts  and  querns. 

From  Beaumaris  to  the  Tubular  Bridge,  6  M.  The  well-shaded 
road  skirts  the  shore  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  (4V2  M.)  Suspension  Bridge 
and  commands  various  fine  views  of  the  Strait  and  the  opposite  mainland. 
At  low  tide  the  strait  contracts  to  the  width  of  a  fair-sized  river,  expos- 
ing large  tracts  of  sand  on  each  side  (comp.  p.  290).  After  2  M.  we  pass 
the  gates  of  a  drive  to  Baron  Hill,  and  beyond  them  reach  the  ferry  to 
Bangor  (2d. ;  Inn).  After  2  M.  more  the  road  ascends  to  Menai  Bridge  Village 
(Victoria;  Bulkeley  Arms);  the  railway-station  is  on  the  other  side  (see 
p.  295).  About  1/3 M.  beyond  the  village  we  reach  a  gate  on  the  left,  from 
which  a  path  leads  through  a  fir-plantation  and  across  a  causeway  to  the 
curious  little  Llandisilio  Church,  romantically  situated  on  an  islet.  Return- 
ing to  the  road  and  following  it  for  1  M.  farther,  we  reach  the  Anglesey 
Column  and  the  Tubular  Bridge  (see  p.  293).  Llanfair  railway-station  (see 
p.  295)  is  V2  M.  beyond  the  Column. 

From  Beaumaris  to  Penmon  Priort,  4  M.  Passing  the  Castle  and 
crossing  the  G-reen  towards  the  N.,  we  reach  the  road  again  at  (V2  M.)  a 
modern  house  called  the  Friars.  Here  we  take  the  branch  to  the  right, 
and  in  a  few  hundred  yards  turn  inland.  If  we  keep  to  the  road  we 
pass  near  (23/4  M.)  Castell  Lleiniog,  a  small  Is^'orman  stronghold,  dating 
from  1080.  [A  detour  may  be  saved  by  following  the  shore  all  the  way.] 
Penmon  Priory,  a  Benedictine  house,  was  originally  founded  in  the  6tli 
cent.,  but  the  Xorman  Church,  restored  in  1854,  is  the  oldest  part  of  the 
present  buildings.  (Key  of  church  kept  by  the  clerk,  near  the  lighthouse, 
V2  M.  farther  on.)  To  "the  S.  of  the  church  is  the  ruined  Refectory,  dating 
from  the  13th  cent. ;  the  lintel  of  the  window  in  the  S.E.  corner  is  formed 


to  Carnarvon.  CARNARVON.  41.  Route.     295 

of  an  ancient  British  cross.  To  the  E.  is  a  curious  old  Dovecote.  Refresh- 
ments may  be  obtained  in  the  house  between  the  church  and  the  refectory, 
on  the  site  of  the  old  prior's  lodgings.  Interesting  old  cross  in  the  deer- 
park,  to  the  W. 

Puffin  Island  (Priestholm,  Ynys  Seiriol),  separated  from  the  N.  E.  point 
of  Anglesey  by  a  channel  V2  M.  wide,  contains  the  tower  of  a  very  an- 
cient church,  erected  in  connection  with  Penraon.  The  island  is  frequented 
in  the  breeding-season  by  great  quantities  of  puffin-auks. 

Red  Wharf  Bap.  on  the  N.  coast  of  Anglesey,  6  M.  from  Beaumaris 
(8  M.  by  road  via  Pentraeth)^  is  a  picturesque  inlet,  with  smooth  and  firm 
sands.  There  is  a  small  Hotel  at  the  W.  end,  and  at  the  E.  end  is  the 
village  of  Llanddona,  IV2  M.  from  which  is  Bwrdd  Arthur,  or  Arthur's 
Table,  a  height  affording  the  most  extensive  view  in  Anglesey. 

From  the  Britannia  Bridge  (p.  293)  the  railway  runs  on,  passing  Llan- 
fair  (p.  294)  to  Gaerwen,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (18  31.)  Amlwch  fl)i- 
norden  Arms;  *Bull  Bay  Hotel,  1^/4  M.  to  the  N.W.),  a  small  town  and 
watering-place  on  the  ^.  coast  of  Anglesey.  The  railway  ends  at  (22  M.) 
Holyhead  {Marine  Hotel;  North  Western;  Tre-Jcrfrfwr  5«i/,  at  the  golf-links, 
2  M.  from  the  station),  the  starting-point  of  the  mail-steamers  to  Duldin 
(60  M.,  in  4  hrs.).  The  chief  object  of  interest  near  Holyhead  is  the  bold 
rocky  scenery  of  the  ''North  and  "South  Stack  (light-house  on  the  latter). 
Good  view  from  Holyhead  Mountain  (720  ft.).  The  Breakwater  is  IV2  M.  long. 

Continuation  of  Railway  to  Carnarvon.  Beyond  Bangor  the 
train  passes  througli  a  long  tunnel  and  stops  at  (61  M.)  Menai  Bridge 
Station  (view  of  Suspension  Bridge ;  comp.  p.  293).  Our  line  di- 
verges here  from  the  Dublin  mail-route  to  Holyhead,  which  runs 
to  the  right  through  the  Tubular  Bridge  (see  above).  Good  views 
to  the  right  of  the  Menai  Strait  and  Bridges.  62  M.  Treborth ; 
641/2  M.  Port  Binorwic,  the  port  of  the  Llanberis  slate-quarries. 

68Y2  M.  Carnarvon.  —  Hotels.  *Royal  Sportsman,  Castle  Street; 
'Royal,  near  the  railway -station,  old-fashioned,  R.  &  A.  4«.  5  Castle, 
Castle  Sq.;  Prince  of  Wales,  Bangor  St.,  commercial. 

Coach  daily  in  summer  round  Snowdon,  via  Snowdon  Ranger,  Beddgelert, 
Penygwryd,  and  Llanberis,  starting  about  10.15  a.m.  and  returning  about 
6  p.m.  (35  M.-,  fare  10s.). 

Ferry  Steamer  from  Victoria  Pier,  below  the  Castle,  to  Anglesey, 
several  times  daily  (3d.). 

Carnarvon  or  Caernarvon  (^Caer-yn-ar-Fon,  the  'fort  opposite 
Mona'),  an  ancient  town  with  9804  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the 
Menai  Strait  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Seiont,  near  the  site  of  the 
Roman  Segontium.  It  is  an  old-fashioned  place,  with  narrow  and 
irregular  streets,  and  a  castle  usually  regarded  as  the  finest  in  tlie 
kingdom.  The  central  position  of  the  town  and  its  convenient 
railway-connections  make  it  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions. 
The  Tict  Hill  (190  ft.;  lane  to  the  left,  just  beyond  the  Royal 
Hotel)  commands  a  general  view  of  the  town  and  castle. 

North  Road  and  Bangor  Street  lead  in  an  almost  straight  line 
from  the  station  to  the  (1/2  -^I-)  *  Castle,  which  occupies  the  whole 
W.  end  of  the  town  and  is  washed  on  two  sides  by  the  waters  of  the 
Seiont  and  the  Menai  Strait.  It  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  and 
extensive  mediaeval  fortresses  in  Europe ,  and  is  built  entirely  of 
hewn  stone.  Before  entering  the  castle  the  visitor  should  walk  round 
it ,  or ,  better  still ,  cross  the  Seiont  and  view  it  from  the  oppo- 
site shore.    Carnarvon  Castle  was  begun  by  Edward  I.  in  1283,  and 


296     Route  41.  CARNARVON.  From  Carnarvon 

may  be  looked  upon  as  tlie  master-piece  of  his  architect,  Henry  de 
Elreton  (comp.  pp.  289,  294).  It  was  not  finished,  however,  till 
the  reign  of  Edward  II.  The  castle  has  recently  undergone  con- 
siderahle  restoration.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  restored  apart- 
ments. The  principal  Oateway  (adm.  dd.),  on  the  N.  side,  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  mutilated  figure  of  Edward  I. 

The  ground-plan  of  the  castle  is  an  irregular  oblong  or  oval,  origin- 
ally divided  into  two  courts  by  a  wall.  The  walls,  8-14  ft.  in  thickness, 
are  strengthened  by  several  polygonal  towers,  surmounted  by  graceful 
turrets.  Iron  standards  bearing  numbers  have  been  placed  in  the  interior 
to  mark  the  site  and  shape  of  the  different  apartments  formerly  existing 
here,  and  lines  are  cut  in  the  grass  with  the  same  object.  Passing  through 
the  principal  gateway,  we  enter  the  upper  court  close  to  the  line  of  demar- 
catiun  between  it  and  the  lower  court.  The  most  generally  interesting 
part  is  the  Eagle  Tower,  at  the  W.  end  (to  the  right),  in  which  Edward  II., 
the  first  'Prince  of  Wales',  is  said  to  have  been  born  in  1284.  Most 
authorities  consider  that  this  has  been  conclusively  disproved;  but  Sir 
Llewelyn  Turner,  Deputy  Constable  of  the  Castle,  maintains  the  ac- 
curacy of  the  popular  tradition.  The  small  chamber,  which  is  pointed 
out  as  that  in  which  the  prince  was  born,  measuring  12  ft.  by  8  ft.,  is 
on  the  first  floor  of  the  tower,  on  a  level  with  the  gallery  round  the 
walls,  and  overlooking  the  Menai  Strait.  The  turrets  of  the  Eagle 
Tower,  the  name  of  which  is  derived  from  the  eagles  placed  on  one  of 
them,  command  a  fine  view.  The  interior  of  the  Queen  s  Tower  has  been 
restored,  and  now  contains  a  Masonic  Lodge  and  the  armoury  of  the  Royal 
Naval  Volunteers.  —  At  the  opposite  end  of  the  castle  is  the  Queen''s 
Gate,  formerly  approached  by  a  drawbridge,  but  now  closed.  Tradition 
points  out  this  gate  as  the  place  where  the  infant  Edward  was  exhibited 
to  the  people  as  a  'prince  of  Wales  who  could  speak  no  English'.  There  is 
also  a  postern  in  the  base  of  the  Eagle  Tower,  from  which  a  flight  of 
steps  descends  to  the  river.  —  The  'shouldered  arch'  is  sometimes  called 
the  Carnarvon  arch  from  its  general  use  in  this  castle. 

The  Town  "Walls  of  Carnarvon  still  exist,  and  visitors  may 
walk  round  them  in  less  than  half-an-hour.  On  leaving  the  Castle 
we  should  turn  to  the  right  and  pass  round  its  river-front,  where 
the  quay  is  covered  with  slate  from  the  quarries  of  Nantlle  (see 
p.  297).  Beyond  the  Eagle  Tower  begins  an  Esplanade,  which 
skirts  the  outside  of  the  wall  on  this  side,  and  forms  a  pleasant  walk 
along  the  Menai  Strait.  The  towers  are  now  occupied  by  the  County 
Gaol,  the  Royal  Welsh  Yacht  Club,  and  the  vestry  of  St.  Mary's 
Church  (at  the  N.W.  angle). 

The  site  of  Segontium,  one  of  the  most  important  Roman  stations  in 
Wales,  lay  about  V2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Carnarvon,  on  the  road  to  Bedd- 
gelert,  and  traces  of  it  may  still  be  seen  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  and 
near  the  church  of  Llanbeblig,  the  mother-church  of  Carnarvon.  From  Llan- 
beblig  we  may  walk  across  the  fields  to  the  Park  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Seiont,  and  return  to  tte  town  by  the  Aber  ferry  (comp.  p.  295). 

From  Carnarvon  to  Llanberis,  see  p.  318;  to  Beddgelert,  see  pp.  321, 
322:  to  Afon  Wen,  Port  Madoc,  and  Ba7'mouth,  see  below. 

b.  From  Carnarvon  to  Afon  Wen,  Port  Madoc,  and  Barmouth.. 

451/2  M.  Railway  (L.N.W.)  from  Carnarvon  to  (18  M.)  Afon  Wen  in 
3/4-I  hr.  (fares  3s.  3d.,  is.  9d.,  Is.  GVW);  from  Afon  Wen  (Cambrian  Rail- 
way) to  (271/2  M.)  Barmouth  in  IV4-IV2  hr.  (fares  3s.  Qd.,  2s.  31/2^^.). 

The  first  part  of  this  sub-route,  completing  the  'outer  circle'  of  rail- 
way  round  North   Wales,    is   comparatively   little   traversed  by   tourists, 


to  Barmouth.  CRICCIETH.  41.  Route.     297 

most  of  whom  make  their  way  from  Carnarvon  to  Port  Madoc  via  Snowdon 
and  Beddgelert  (comp.  pp.  321,  322).  —  Comp.  Map,  p.  324. 

As  tlie  train  leaves  CaniarvoTi  we  have  a  good  retrospect  of  the 
castle  to  the  right.  It  then  crosses  the  Seiont.  31/4  M.  Dinas,  the 
junction  of  the  narrow-gauge  line  to  Snowdon  Station  (p.  322).  — 
7  M.  Pen-y-Groes  (Victoria),  the  junction  of  a  short  line  to  (172^1-) 
Nantlle  ("Nanthly';  Inn),  a  conglomeration  of  slate-quarries.  Fine 
view  to  the  left,  tip  the  valley,  of  Snowdon  and  the  rocky  hill  called 
Old  Meredith,  resembling  an  upturned  face. 

From  Xantlle  a  road,  passing  two  or  three  small  lakes  and  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  Snowdon,  leads  through  the  pass  to  (6  M.)  Snowdon  Station 
(p.  322).  A  footpath,  diverging  to  the  left  from  this  road  near  (3V'-*  M.) 
a  cupper-mine,  joins  the  Carnarvon  and  Beddgelert  road  at  the  S.  end  of 
Llyn  Quellyn,  1  M.  from  Quellyn  Lake  Station  (p.  322;  7  M.  from  Nantllej. 
—  On  the  coast,  41/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Pen-y-Groes,  is  the  village  of 
Clynnog  (Newhorough  Arms),  with  a  large  and  handsome  Perp.  church 
15^16th  cent.),  the  holy  well  of  St.  Beuno,  and  a  good  cromlech. 

11  M.  Panlglas  lies  nearly  opposite  the  Rivals  ('Yr  Eifl'; 
1890  ft.),  a  graceful  hill  or  group  of  hills  to  the  right.  On  the  E. 
peak  are  the  remains  of  a  British  stronghold  called  Tre'r  Ceiri 
(*View).  —  Moel  Hehog  (p.  324)  also  comes  into  view  on  the  left. 

18  M.  Afon  Wen  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  the  point  where  the 
L.N.  W.R.  joins  the  Cambrian  system  (carriages  changed).  The  station 
(there  is  no  village)  lies  on  Cardigan  Bay ,  and  commands  fine 
views  both  seaward  and  landward. 

From  Afon  Wen  to  Pwllheli,  4  M.  ,  railway  in  10  min.  (fares  Td., 
4d.).  — Pwllheli,  pron.  Poothlhehj  (Crown,  Tower,  in  the  town;  South  Beach, 
Royal  Victoria.!  on  the  beach  1  M.  from  the  station),  a  small  but  rapidly 
growing  bathing-place,  with  perhaps  the  finest  sandy  beach  in  Wales  and 
an  esplanade.  Fine  view  from  the  Carreg-y-RimUll,  or  Gimlet  Rock.,  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  harbour. 

Pwllheli  forms  the  most  convenient  headquarters  from  which  to 
explore  the  Lleyn  Promontory,  a  district  little  known  and  of  compara- 
tively small  attraction.  The  inn-accommodation  is  of  the  scantiest.  The 
principal  excursions  from  Pwllheli  are  along  the  coast  to  (16  M.)  Aherdaron 
(Ship  Inn;  omn.  or  mail-cart  2s.),  and  to  the  K.W.  to  (7V2  M.)  Nevin  C^an- 
horon  Arms;  omn.  or  mail-cart  Is.).  Pwllheli  may  also  be  made  the 
starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  the  Rivals  (see  above),  which  lie  about  6  M. 
to  the  X.  (better  from  Nevin).  —  Aberdaron  is  about  3  M.  from  Braich- 
y-Pwll,  the  'Land's  End'  of  N.  Wales,  and  the  walk  thither  reveals  some 
fine  coast-scenery.  A  conspicuous  feature  in  the  views  is  Bardsew  Isle, 
which  lies  about  2  M.  off  the  point  and  may  in  line  weather  be  reached 
from  Aberdaron  (boat  about  1/.).  The  island  was  formerly  a  favourite 
burying-place ,  and  contains,  according  to  tradition,  the  graves  of  20,000 
saints.     It  also  contains   the  scanty  remains  of  a  once  famous  abbey. 

From  Afon  Wen  the  railway  to  Port  Madoc  runs  to  the  E.,  along 
the  N.  coast  of  Cardigan  Bay,  to  (22V.2  M.)  Criccieth  (George,  R.  & 
A.  4«.,  D.  45.  6d.;  Marine;  White  Lion),  a  small  sea-bathing  resort, 
the  chief  attraction  of  which  is  its  nearness  to  the  finest  part  of 
Snowdonia.  Its  ruined  Castle  (adm.  id.')  was  probably  built  by  Ed- 
ward I. ;  it  commands  a  good  view  of  the  Mts.  of  Carnarvon  and 
Merionethshire,  and  of  Harlech  Castle  (p.  298)  on  the  other  side  of 
the  bay.  —  Beyond  Criccieth  the  train  quits  the  coast  for  a  short 
distance.    Fine  mountain-view  to  the  left. 


298    Route  41.  PORT  MADOC.  From  Carnarvon 

28  M.  Port  Madoc  {Sportsman ;  Queen's^  close  to  the  station), 
the  port  for  the  Ffestiniog  slate-quarries ,  is  the  starting-point  of 
the  'toy-railway'  to  Ffestiniog  (p.  318),  and  of  the  direct  road  to 
Beddgelert  and  Snowdon  from  the  S.  (Coach  to  Beddgelert,  8  M., 
several  times  daily;  fare  2s.;   comp.  p.  322.) 

About  1  31.  to  the  N.  of  Port  Madoc,  on  the  road  to  Beddgelert,  lies 
Tremadoc,  a  village  at  the  foot  of  a  picturesque  line  of  cliffs.  Both  places 
take  their  name  from  a  Mr.  Madocks,  M.  P.,  who  founded  them  at  the 
beginning  of  this  cent,  and  at  the  same  time  reclaimed  the  Traeth-Mawr 
(see  Map,  p.  324)  by  building  a  huge  embankment  across  the  mouth  of 
the  estuary.  Shelley,  who  spent  part  of  1812-13  at  Tanyrallt,  Tremadoc, 
took  a  keen  interest  in  the  Faust-like  undertaking  of  Mr.  Madocks,  and 
freely  spent  his  energies  and  money  in  promoting  it.  Moel-y-Oest  (SQO  it.), 
the  hill  to  the  W.  of  Port  Madoc,  commands  an  extensive  panorama. 

Beyond  Port  Madoc  the  train  crosses  the  above-mentioned  em- 
bankment, or  'Cob',  vrhich  affords  a  grand  *View  of  Snowdon,  rising 
at  the  head  of  the  valley  to  the  left,  with  Moel  Hebog  to  the  left 
of  it,  and  the  Glyders,  Cynicht,  and  Moelwyn  to  its  right. 

30  M.  Mynffordd  is  the  junction  for  the  Toy  Raibvay  to  Ffesti- 
niog (p.  318)  ,  which  is  here  carried  over  the  Cambrian  line.  — 
31  M.  Penrhyndeudraeth,  a  quarrymen's  village,  also  a  station  of 
the  Ffestiniog  line  (p.  318).  Harlech  Castle  is  visible  to  the  right, 
in  the  distance.  We  now  round  the  head  of  the  estuary  and  turn 
to  the  S.  Beyond  (33  M.)  Talsarnau  a  series  of  fine  retrospects 
(right)  is  obtained  of  Snowdonia,  while  the  graduated  hills  of  the 
Lleyn  promontory  are  visible  beyond  Cardigan  Bay.  The  line  here 
runs  across  the  Morfa  Harlech,  a  level  tract  reclaimed  from  the  sea. 

36  M.  Harlech  (*Castle,  8s.  Qd.  per  day;  Lion),  the  old  capital 
of  Merionethshire,  is  a  small  place  with  a  golf-course  (18  holes)  at 
the  base  of  the  castle-rock.  Its  Castle  (adm.  Ad.'),  one  of  the  nu- 
merous buildings  of  Edward  I.,  has  been  well  described  as  'the  ideal 
castle  of  childhood  —  high-perched,  foursquare,  round-towered, 
and  impressively  massive'  (Baddeley). 

The  well-known  'March  of  the  Men  of  Harlech'  commemorates  the 
capture  of  the  castle  by  the  Yorkists  in  1468.  It  was  the  last  stronghold 
in  N.  Wales  to  hold  out  for  Charles  I.  The  castle  commands  a  magni- 
11  cent  panorama  of  sea  and  mountain;  and  another  very  fine  view  of  Snow- 
donia may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of  Moel-y-Senicl,  IV2  M.  to  the  E. 
From  Moel-y-Senicl  we  may  make  our  way  to  Cwm  Bychan  and  the  Rhi- 
nogs  (more  conveniently  reached  from  Llanbedr;  see  below). 

38^/2  M.  Llanbedr  and  Pensarn.  The  village  of  Llanbedr  (Vic- 
toria), situated  on  the  Afon  Artro,  one  of  the  best  trout-streams  in 
Wales,  lies  about  2/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station.  The  peninsula  of 
Mochras,  II/2  M-  from  Llanbedr,  is  celebrated  for  its  rare  shells, 
and  the  neighbourhood  abounds  in  cromlechs  and  other  antiquities. 

Llanbedr  is  the  usual  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  Cwm  Bychan, 
the  Rhinogs,  and  the  pass  of  Ardudwy,  an  excursion  comprising  the  finest 
scenery  in  this  part  of  Wales.  Public  conveyances  ply  in  summer  to  and 
from  {5'/2  M.)  Cwm  Bychan;  but  the  best  plan  is  to  hire  a  carriage  to 
Cwm  Bychan,  send  it  to  meet  us  at  Maes-y-Garnedd  (p.  299),  and  walk 
round  through  the  pass.  This  involves  a  drive  of  12  M.  and  a  walk 
of  about  2  hrs.     '-Cwm  Bychan  is  a   lonely   and  romantic    hollow,    con- 


to  Barmouth.  BARMOUTH.  41.  Route.     299 

taining  a  small  lake,  and  enclosed  Ly  the  precipitous  crags  of  the  Rhinog 
Fawr  (2346  ft.)  on  the  S.  and  the  Craig  Dwrg  (2100  ft.)  on  the  N.  A  good 
echo  may  be  awakened  on  the  shore  of  the  little  llyn.  The  carriage-road 
ends  here,  but  all  who  are  able  should  go  on  to  a  point  about  100  yds. 
beyond  the  lake,  and  then  proceed  to  the  right  to  the  'Roman  Steps', 
a  rude  staircase  of  slabs  of  rocks,  believed  to  have  been  formed  either 
by  the  ancient  Britons  or  the  Romans.  This  leads  to  the  (1  hr.)  head 
of  the  pass  named  Bwlch-y-Ti/ddiad ,  whence  the  path  descends  to  the 
N.  to  the  village  of  (5  M.)  Trawsfynydd  (p.  308).  We,  however,  soon 
diverge  from  the  path  and  cross  the  valley  to  the  right,  skirting  the  E. 
side  of  the  Rhinog  Fawr,  so  as  to  reach  the  'Bwlch  Drws  Ardudwy,  or 
pass  of  the  'Gate  of  Ardudwy'  (1255  ft.),  a  well-marked  depression  be- 
tween the  Rhinog  Fawr  on  the  N.  and  the  Rhinog  Fach  on  the  S.  The 
scenery  here  is  remarkably  wild  and  sombre.  Our  route  now  leads 
nearly  due  W.,  and  about  1  hr.  after  leaving  the  Bwlch-y-Tyddiad  we 
reach  the  farm  of  Maes-y-Garnedd,  whence  we  may  drive  back  to  (6V2  M.) 
Llaitbedr.  —  The  Rhinog  Fawr  (2362  ft.),  most  easily  ascended  (2  hrs.) 
from  Pen-y-Bont,  2  M.  from  Llanbedr  on  the  road  to  Cwm  Bychan,  commands 
a  wide  view,  taking  in  Snowdon  on  the  N.  and  Cader  Idris  on  the  S. 

Beyond  Llanbedr  we  have  a  view  to  the  left  of  the  Rhinogs, 
Llethr,  and  Diphwys,  while  the  rounded  green  Moelfre  rises  in  the 
foreground.  411/2  M.  Dyffryn,  another  starting-point  for  a  visit  to 
the  Ardudwy  pass  (see  above).  The  ascent  of  Moelfre  (1894  ft.)  from 
Dyffryn  takes  2  hrs.  Between  Dyffryn  and  Barmouth  we  pass  on  the 
left  the  woods  of  Cors-y-Oedol  and  the  church  of  Llanaber  (p.  300). 

45^2  M.  Barmouth.  — Hotels.  Cors-t-Gedol,  in  the  main  street, 
Marine,  on  the  Esplanade,  under  the  same  management,  R.  &  A.  4*.  6d., 
D.  4s.  Qd.  \  Barmouth  (R.  &  A.  45.),  Lion,  unpretending,  in  the  main  street; 
Tal-t-Don,  a  small  private  hotel,  near  the  station.  —  Lodgings  may  also 
be  easily  procured  (dear  in  Aug.  and  Sept.). 

Golf  Links  (9  holes),  across  the  bridge,  1  M.  from  the  town;  visitors 
5s.  per  week,  ladies  2s.  Qd. 

Boats  on  hire  for  fishing,  and  for  excursions  by  sea  or  river.  —  Small 
Steamer  to  Penmaen Pool,  at  the  head  of  the  estuary;  fare  is.  Qd. 

Barmouth,  a  corruption  of  the  Welsh  Abermaw  ('the  mouth 
of  the  Mawddach'),  a  thriving  watering-place,  is  situated  at  the  N. 
entrance  of  the  beautiful  estuary  of  the  Mawddach ,  on  a  narrow 
site  between  the  sea  and  a  barrier  of  rocky  hills.  It  is  within  easy 
access  of  much  of  the  grandest  scenery  in  Mid-Wales,  but  in  itself 
cannot  vie  as  a  marine  residence  with  either  Llandudno  or  Tenby. 
The  sands  are  extensive  and  well  adapted  for  bathing,  though  the 
fact  that  the  railway  has  been  carried  between  the  town  and  the  sea 
is  a  serious  drawback.  The  lofty  railway-embankment  has,  however, 
the  merit  of  protecting  the  place  from  the  loose  sand  with  which  it 
used  to  be  inundated;  and  the  new  Esplanade,  to  the  N.  of  the 
station  and  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  railway,  bears  ample  witness 
to  the  need  of  some  such  screen.  The  town  is  also  destitute  of  a 
landward  view. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  the  railway  crosses  the  estuary 
of  the  Mawddach  by  a  fine  ^Bridge,  or  viaduct,  '/s  M.  in  length,  includ- 
ing a  footway,  8  ft.  wide  (toll  2d.,  weekly  ticket  6d.).  The  *View  up  the 
Mawddach  from  this  bridge,  especially  at  high  water,  is  charming.  On 
the  left  or  N.  side  of  the  lake-like  estuary  the  background  is  formed  by 
the  Llawllech  range,  culminating  in  the  rounded  Diphwys.  To  the  right 
is  the  range  of    Cader  Idris  (p.  305),   the  most  prominent  peak  being  the 


300     Route  41.  BARMOUTH.  Excursions 

Tyrau  Mawr^  to  tlie  left  of  whicli  appears  the  true  summit.  In  the  minor 
ridge  in  front,  farther  to  the  E.,  is  a  hill  known  as  the  'Gianfs  Head'", 
from  its  resemblance  to  an  upturned  face.  The  most  conspicuous  hill 
at  the  head  of  the  estuary,  straight  in  front  of  us,  is  Moel  Offrwm  (1200  ft.), 
behind  which,  a  little  to  the  left,  towers  Rhobell-Fawr  (2410  ft.).  The 
prospect  to  seaward  includes  the  LUyn  (p.  297)  and  Bardsey  Isle  (p.  297). 

Excursions   from  Barmouth. 

*Panoeama  Walk.  At  the  end  of  Porkington  Terrace,  near  the  bridge, 
we  quit  the  road  and  ascend  the  steep  lane  to  the  left.  Where  the  lane 
forks  (6  min.)  we  keep  to  the  right;  4  min.  gate;  8  min.  another  gate 
(sign-post),  where  the  grassy  track,  ascending  to  the  right,  is  to  be  avoided. 
In  3  min.  more  (sign-post)  we  turn  to  the  right,  bend  back  a  little,  and 
pass  through  a  gap  in  the  hill  to  the  (4  min.)  lodge,  where  we  pay  id. 
for  admission  to  the  *Panorama  Walk,  a  path  skirting  the  brow  of  the 
hill  to  the  right,  200  ft.  above  the  Mawddach  estuary.  The  beautiful  view 
is  a  'bird's-eye  edition'  of  that  from  the  bridge  (see  above).  The  sloping 
summits  of  the  Arans  (p.  3Ci6) ,  however,  here  form  a  more  prominent 
feature  in  the  background  to  the  E.  —  We  may  now  return  to  the  lodge 
and  descend  to  the  Dolgelley  road,  which  we  may  follow  along  the  bank 
of  the  estuary  to  (2  M.)  Barmouth.  Or  we  may  make  our  way  back  to 
the  point  where  we  quitted  the  lane  (at  the  sign-post,  beyond  the  second 
gate)  and  follow  this  lane  for  a  few  yards  more.  We  then  turn  to  the 
left  and  ascend  the  hill,  passing  (5  min.)  the  small  farm  of  Gwastadannes. 
A  short  way  beyond  the  farm  the  path  forks;  the  branch  to  the  right, 
uphill,  lead's  to' Cell-Fawr  and  Llanaber  (see  below),  while  that  on  the  left 
descends  to  Barmouth. 

Llanabek  axd  Coes-t-Gedol,  51/2  M.  About  i^U  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Barmouth,  on  the  road  to  Harlech,  is  the  interesting  church  of  Llanaber, 
an  E.  E.  building  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  a  line  interior  (key  kept  at  an 
adjoining  cottage).  The  solitary  lancet  window  at  the  E,  end  is  an  un- 
usual feature.  The  entrance-lodge  to  Cors-y-Gedol  is  2^/4  M.  farther  on, 
opposite  the  church  of  Llandduywe.  The  drive  thence  to  Cors-y-Gedol 
(no  admission),  formerly  the  seat  of  the  ancient  but  now  extinct  family  of 
theVaughans,  is  nearly  IM.  long.  The  grounds  contain  some  fine  timber. 
About  Vz  M.  from  the  house  (follow  the  cart -track  to  the  right, 
beyond  the  farmyard)  is  a  cromlech  called  Arthur's  Quoit^  said  to  have 
been  hurled  by  that  doughty  monarch  from  the  top  of  Moelfre  (p.  299). 
—  This  excursion  to  Gors-V-Gedol  scarcely  repays  the  pedestrian,  but 
should  be  made  either  by  carriage  or  by  train  to  Dyffryn  (1^  4  M.  from 
Cors-y-Gedol  House).  A  pleasant  round  for  walkers  (about  7  M.  in  all) 
may  "be  made  as  follows:  From  Barmouth  to  Llanaber,  1^/4  M.;  from 
Llanaber  across  the  Llawllech  range,  passing  the  farm  of  Cell-Fawr 
(see  above),  to  the  Panorama  View,  31/4  M. ;  back  to  Barmouth,  either  by 
the  Dolgelley  road  or  by  the  route  above  described,  2  M.  This  round 
may  be  increased  to  about  11  M.  by  extending  the  walk  to  Cors-y-Gedol 
and  returning  thence  over  the  hills,  while  robust  walkers  may  include  the 
ascent  oi  Diphwys  (2462  ft. ;  View),  which  will  add2V2-3  hrs.  to  the  excursion. 
The   ascent    is    most    often    made    from   Penmaenpool  (p.  301;  2V2-3  hrs.). 

The  *RoAD  FEOM  Barmouth  to  Dolgellet,  along  the  X.  bank  of  the 
Mawddach,  forms  one  of  the  finest  drives  in  Wales,  and  is  preferable  to 
the  railway.  About  2  M.  from  Barmouth  the  road  quits  the  Mawddach 
for  a  time.  21/2  M.  Pont-ddu  (Halfway  House),  pleasantly  situated  in  a 
little  wooded  glen  with  a  waterfall.  Diphwys  may  be  ascended  hence  in 
11/2  hr.  The  road  to  the  left  ascends  to  s'ome  abandoned  gold  mines. 
Beyond  Pont-ddu  the  road  returns  to  the  estuary  and  affords  fine  views 
of  the  opposite  shore.  IV2  M.  Bridge  crossing  to  Penmaenpool  (see  above); 
IV2  M.  LlanelUyd.  It  then  crosses  the  Mawddach,  here  an  ordinary  stream, 
and  soon  reaches  (lH.)  Dolgelley  (p.  302). 

As  the  centre  from  which  railways  branch  to  theN.,  E.,  and  S.,  Bar- 
mouth afl'ords  facilities  for  numerous  longer  excursions,  such  as  those  to 
Llanhedr  and  Mochras   (p.  298);    Cwm  Bychan  and  Drws  Ardudwy  (p.  299); 


from  Barmouth.  CADER  IDRIS.  41.  Rou(e.     301 

Harlech   (p.    298) ;    Towyn  (^.   270);    Aberdovei/    (p.  269);    SiW^  Machynlleth 
(p.  269).  —  The  ascent  of  Cader  Idris  (see  below)  is  often  made  from  Bar- 
mouth,  occupyin-^   about   7-8   hrs.  (there  and  back),  but  the  actual  start- 
ing-point is  Arthoy  (see  below),  to  which  we  proceed  by  train. 
From  Barmouth  to  Aberystitith,  see  p.  270. 

c.  From  Barmouth  to  Dolgelley,  Bala,  Llangollen,  and  Chester. 

71  M.  Railway  in  3V2-4  hrs.  (fares  lit.  9d.,  10«.  2d.,  5s.  lid);  to 
Dolgelley,  9V2  M.,  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  Is.  kd..  OV-jc?.).  The  line  from  Barmouth 
to  Dolgelley  belongs  to  the  Cambrian  Co.,  but  the  G.  W.  R.  Co.,  whose 
system  we  join  at  Dolgelley,  has  running  powers  as  far  as  Barmouth. 

On  leaving  Barmoutli  the  train  crosses  the  estuary  of  the  Maw- 
ddach  by  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  299,  commanding  a  magni- 
ficent view  up  the  river  to  the  left ,  and  a  survey  of  the  Lleyn 
peninsula  to  the  right.  I3/4  M.  Barmouth  Junction  (Rfmt.  Rooms), 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  bridge,  is  the  point  where  our  line  leaves  the 
Cambrian  route  running  S.  to  Aberdovey  and  Aberystwith  (p.  270). 

3  M.  Arthog  (Arthog  Hall  Hotel)  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot 
of  the  spurs  of  the  Cader  Idris  ridge.  The  Arthog  Lakes,  1  M.  to  the 
E.,  are  frequented  by  anglers  (apply  at  the  hotel).  The  'Barmouth 
Ascent'  of  Cader  Idris  begins  here  (see  below),  and  a  guide  (Is. 
per  pers. ;   unnecessary)  generally  meets  the  morning-trains. 

Ascent  of  Cader  Idris  from  Arthog  (Barmouth),  3  hrs.  From  the  E. 
end  of  Arthog  village,  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  S.  of  the  station,  we 
follow^  the  lane  ascending  to  the  right.  Beyond  the  trees  we  pass  through 
a  gate,  and  after  ascending  for  a  few  min.  more,  turn  to  the  left  by  a 
path  leading  to  a  stream  (not  to  be  crossed)  which  we  follow  to  the  farm- 
house of  (25  min.)  Pani-y-Llan.  Beyond  this  the  track  (indistinct)  crosses 
two  fields  and  reaches  the  old  Dolgelley  and  Towyn  road,  which  we  follow 
to  the  left  (E.)  as  far  as  the  farm  of  Hafod-y-Fach.  Here  we  diverge  to 
the  right,  through  a  gate,  and  follow  a  rough  track ,  which  soon  brings 
us  out  on  the  open  mountain-side.  On  gaining  the  (20  min.)  top  of  the 
ridge,  the  summit  of  Cader  Idris  comes  into  view,  and  the  rest  of  our 
course  is  plain-sailing,   as  we  have  simply  to  follow  the  ridge. 

The  direct  route  runs  to  the  right  of  Tiirau  Maicr  (2167  ft.),  on  its 
S.  slope,  and  those  who  do  not  care  to  make  the  whole  ascent  should 
at  least  climb  to  the  top  of  this,  the  prominent  W.  peak  of  the  Cader 
ridge  (IV4  hr.  from  Arthog),  commanding  a  view  not  inferior  to  that  from 
the  highest  point.  We  now  follow  the  grassy  ridge  (line  views  on  both 
.sides)  and  about  1  M.  farther  on,  near  a  wall,  our  track  is  joined  on  the 
left  by  the  bridle-path  from  Dolgelley  (p.  304)  and  on  the  right  by  that 
from  Towyn  (p.  270).  We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  soon  begin  the  final 
part  of  the  ascent.  Where  two  tracks  are  visible  we  should  keep  to  the 
right.  After  about  1/2  hr.  we  pass  a  good  spring,  a  little  beyond  which 
is  the  point  where  the  ponies  are  left  and  the  Tal-y-Llyn  route  (p.  270) 
joins  ours.  A  climb  of  5  min.  up  a  steep  winding  path  now  brings  us  to 
the  summit  (2925  ft.),  which  is  marked  by  a  cairn  and  a  small  stone  hut 
(very  dirty  inside).  The  *View  is  described  at  p.  305.  —  Good  walkers 
on  their  way  to  Dolgelley  should  descend  by  the  'Foxes'  Path'  (p.  305). 
Descent  to  Tal-y-Llyn  and  Towyn,  see  p.  270. 

Beyond  Arthog  the  train  skirts  the  Mawddach  estuary,  affording 
fine  views  of  the  mountains  on  the  opposite  side.  At  Q^j2  M.) 
Penmaenpool  (George  Inn)  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  and  ceases 
to  be  navigable.  The  line  now  bears  to  the  right,  and  we  obtain  a 
view  of  the  four  peaks  of  Cader  Idris  (p.  305).    As  we  cross  the 


302     Route  41.  DOLGELLEY.  Excursions 

Wnion  ('Oonioii')  we  have  a  peep  to  the  left  of  the  Ganllwyd  glen 
(p.  303),  down  which  flows  the  Mawddach,  nniting  with  the  Wnion 
to  form  the  estuary. 

9V2  ^-  Dolgelley.  —  Hotels.  Golden  Lion,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  45.; 
Royal  Ship,  R.&  A.  4*.;  Angel,  all  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  about  1/4  M. 
from  the  station  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  —  Lodgings,  moderate. 

Brakes.  In  summer  to  the  Torrent  and  Precipice  Walks  (fare  3s.  6cf.) 
and  back;   to  Tyn-y-Groes  and  Pont-ar-Eden;    to  (IOV2M.)  Diiias  Mawddicy. 

Fishing.  Trout  abound  in  the  Wnion,  the  Aran,  and  several  lakes  in 
the  vicinity,  permission  to  fish  in  which  may  be  olatained  at  the  hotels. 
The  salmon-fishing  in  the  Mawddach,  at  Tyn-y-Groes,  is  preserved. 

Dolgelley  (pron.  Dolgethly),  the  county-town  of  Merionethshire, 
an  irregularly-built  little  place  with  2500  inhab.,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Wnion,  near  the  N.  base  of  Cader  Idris,  is  the  centre  of  some 
of  the  finest  scenery  in  Wales.  The  Church ,  recently  restored, 
contains  an  effigy  of  a  knight.    Welsh  woollen  goods  are  made  here. 

Excursions  from  Dolgelley. 

ToBEENT  Walk,  a  round  of  51/2  M.  The  Torrent  Walk  itself  is  only 
1  M.  long,  and  visitors  may  drive  to  one  end,  and  send  the  carriage  round 
to  meet  them  at  the  other.  We  quit  the  tov^n  by  the  Machynlleth  road, 
which  leads  to  the  E.,  crossing  the  Aran.  After  IV4  M.  we  leave  the 
road  by  a  lane  to  the  left,  nearly  opposite  a  small  quarry,  and  soon  reach 
(V2  M.)  a  bridge,  on  this  side  of  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to 
the  -Walk'.  The  ''Torrent  Walk  ascends  along  the  side  of  an  impetuous 
little  mountain  stream,  and  offers  a  perfect  combination  of  rock,  and  wood, 
and  water.  The  stream  forms  a  continuous  series  of  foaming  rapids, 
cataracts,  and  waterfalls,  with  most  picturesquely  placed  boulders  hemming 
its  course,  while  the  narrow  ravine  is  clothed  from  top  to  bottom  with 
luxuriant  trees ,  the  branches  of  which  extend  from  side  to  side  of  the 
torrent.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  glen  we  cross  a  small  foot-bridge  into  a 
road,  where  we  turn  to  the  right,  pass  the  entrance-gates  of  Caerynwch, 
and  soon  regain  the  main  (Machynlleth)  road.  Here  we  turn  to  the  right 
and  follow  the  road  to  (2V2  M.)  Dolgelley ;  or  we  may  proceed  to  the  left 
to  (1  M.)  the  Cross  Foxes  /nn,  whence  "the  old  road,  commanding  good 
views  of  Cader  Idris,  descends  direct  to  (3  M.)  Dolgelley. 

Nannad  and  the  Peecipice  Walk,  6-7  M.  We  cross  the  railway  at 
the  station,  follow  the  Bala  road  (to  the  right)  for  about  250  yds.,  and 
then  take  the  first  turning  to  the  left,  a  lane  leading  through  a  gate  to 
a  house.  Behind  the  house  we  turn  sharp  to  the  right,  along  a  wall 
(avoiding  the  path  leading  straight  up  the  hill),  and  after  a  few  yards 
ascend  to  the  left  through  trees.  In  about  8  min.  after  leaving  the  cottage 
we  emerge  from  the  wood  into  the  fields,  and  almost  immediately  cross 
a  wall  by  a  stile.  Here  we  keep  straight  on,  with  first  a  low  wall,  then 
a  hedge,"  and  lastly  a  wood  on  our  right.  We  then  bear  to  the  left, 
crossing  the  field  diagonally,  in  the  direction  of  a  plantation,  which  we 
enter  by  another  stile  (4  min.  from  the  last).  Our  path  leads  through 
the  plantation  to  (3  min.)  the  small  farm  of  Tydden  Bach^  round  the  front 
of  which  we  pass  into  a  lane  and  then  turn  to  the  right.  3  min.  Gate, 
beyond  which  the  lane  forks.  We  keep  to  the  left  for  3  min.  more; 
then  turn  to  the  right  and  follow  a  grassy  lane  to  (13  min.)  Maes-y-Brynar 
Farm.  (Driving  is  practicable  to  this  point,  by  another  route.)  At  the 
farm  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  a  rough  cart-track  (sign-post),  which 
leads  in  9  min.,  trending  to  the  right,  to  the  S.  end  ot  Llyn  Cynwch.  The 
hill  to  the  right  of  this  lake  is  called  Moel  Offrwm  (1330  ft. ;  view),  or 
the  'hill  of  oflering'.  At  its  foot  lies  Nannau,  the  old  mansion  of  the 
Vaughans,  finely  situated  in  a  beautiful  park.  —  To  reach  the  Precipice 
Walk,  we  pass  through  the  gate  at  the  S.W.  (left)  corner  of  Llyn  Cynwch 
and  climb   a  stile   to   the  left.     A  few  yards  farther  on  (about  1  hr.  from 


from  Dolgelley.  TYN-Y-GROES.  41.  Route.     303 

Dolgelley)  we  cross  another  stile  and  reach  the  ^Precipice  Walk,  which 
runs  round  the  steep  slopes  of  Moel  Cynwch.  At  first  the  walk  is  a  mere 
green  track  along  a  grassy  hillside,  with  rock  cropping  out,  and  has  little 
that  is  precipitous  about  it.  In  5  min.  we  reach  a  stile,  where  we  have 
a  fine  view  of  Cader  Idris  and  the  estuary  of  the  Mawddach.  [Those  who 
make  the  circuit  of  the  Precipice  Walk  in  the  opposite  direction  may 
quit  it  here,  and  descend  to  Dolgelley  or  to  Llanelltyd  and  Cymmer  Abbey 
(see  below).]  6  min.  Another  stile.  This  is  the  most  precipitous  bit  of  the 
walk;  though  nowhere  sheer,  the  slope  approaches  the  perpendicular  so 
closely  and  the  path  is  so  narrow  that  a  moderately  steady  head  is 
desirable.  The  view  of  the  Mawddach  flowing  in  the  narrow  Ganllwyd 
glen  below  us  is  very  fine.  We  reach  another  stile  in  7-8  min.,  near  the 
point  where  the  path  bends  round  the  N.  side  of  the  hill. 

[To  reach  Tyn-y-Groes  we  leave  the  Precipice  Walk  at  a  point  ab<jut 
5  min.  beyond  this  stile.  Just  below  is  a  wall  running  almost  parallel 
with  this  section  of  the  walk,  and  from  this  wall  another  descends  at 
right  angles  towards  the  valley.  Crossing  the  first  wall  and  descending 
to  the  left  of  the  second,  we  soon  reach  a  wood,  through  which  a  steep 
and  faintly-marked  path  descends  to  a  cart-track  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river.  By  following  this  to  the  right  for  1  M.  we  reach  the  bridge 
crossing  to  Tyn-y-Groes  Inn  (see  below).  On  our  way  we  see  the  large 
wheels  of  a  copper-mine  to  the  right.  This  descent  is  scarcely  adapted 
for  ladies,  but  good  walkers  are  advised  to  vary  their  homeward  route 
by  visiting  Tyn-y-Groes  and  following  the  road  to  Llanelltyd  (see  below). 
They  should,  however,  first  follow  the  Precipice  Walk  far  enough  to  get 
a  view  of  Nannau.] 

8  min.  Stile.  This  is  practically  the  end  of  the  Precipice  Walk. 
Rhobell  Faicr  (2409  ft.)  is  conspicuous  to  the  left  and  Nannau  House 
(p.  302)  soon  comes  in  sight.  We  then  again  reach  Llyn  Cynwch  and 
pass  along  its  W.  side  to  the  (12  min.)  gate  by  which  we  entered. 

The  above  is  the  preferable  direction  in  which  to  make  the  circuit 
of  the  Precipice  Walk,  as  the  scenery  improves  as  we  proceed.  The 
circuit  from  Maes-y-Brynar  takes  about  1  hr. 

Ttn-t-Groes,  Rhaiadr-Do,  and  Pistyll-t-Cain,  8  M.  (there  and  back 
16  M.).  Crossing  the  railway,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  Bar- 
mouth road  for  about  IV2  M.  Here,  a  little  short  of  Llanelltyd  Bridge,  a 
farm-road  diverges  on  the  right  to  (4  min.)  Cymmer  Abbey,  a  Cistercian 
foundation,  the  ruined  church  of  which,  dating  from  about  1200,  is  worth 
a  visit.  The  key  is  kept  at  the  adjoining  farm,  which  incorporates  the 
old  'Abbot's  Hair.  (Route  hence  to  Precipice  Walk,  see  above.)  Returning 
to  the  road  and  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Mawddach  we  now  reach 
(V4  M.)  Llanelltyd ,  where  we  turn  to  the  right  and  follow  the  road 
ascending  the  *Glen  of  Ganllwyd.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  Mawddach,  rises 
Moel  Cynwch  (see  above),  with  the  Precipice  Walk.  After  2  M.  the  road 
bends  to  the  left,  and  the  valley  contracts  and  increases  in  picturesqueness. 

3/4  M.  (4'  2  M.  from  Dolgelley)  Tyn-y-Groes  Inn  {Oakley  Arms.,  plain), 
a  favourite  little  anglers'  resort.  We  may  vary  our  route  in  returning  to 
Dolgelley  from  this  point  by  crossing  the  bridge  in  front  of  the  inn  and 
proceeding  to  the  right  to  the  {}'\  hr.)  Precipice  Walk  (comp.  above). 

Beyond  Tyn-y-Groes  we  pass  the  wooded  grounds  of  Dolmelynllyn  on 
the  left,  and  reach  a  ('/2  M.)  bridge  over  the  Cnmlan.  To  reach  the  fall  of 
(V3M.)  *Rhaiadr-Du  (a  pleasant  digression  of  V3-V2  ^^■)  ^'^  cross  the  bridge 
and  ascend  to  the  left  along  the  stream,  at  first  by  a  cart-track  and  then  by 
a  path.  The  fall  is  not  large,  but  its  surroundings   are  picturesque. 

About  ^/4  M.  beyond  the  bridge  the  road  forks,  and  we  keep  to  the 
right,  crossing  another  bridge  over  the  Eden.  We  then  pass  through  a 
gate  (or  over  a  stile)  and  enter  the  wooded  glen  of  the  upper  Mawddach, 
which  runs  to  our  right,  half  hidden  among  the  trees.  About  12  min. 
after  leaving  the  gate  we  see  t^  our  right  a  small  foot-bridge,  leading  to 
a  cottage  on  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  We,  however,  keep  to  the 
road  on  this  side  and  in  1,4  hr.  more  pass  two  new  houses  and  reach  the 
entrance  to  the  Gunpowder  Works,  beyond  which  the  ground  is  private, 
though    visitors    are    admitted    between    sunrise   and  sunset.     Driving   is 


304     Route  41.  CADER  IDRIS.  Excursions 

practicable  to  this  point,  and  carriages  may  be  left  here  while  we  go  on  to 
visit  the  Falls.  No  smoking  is  allowed  on  the  premises.  A  new  path  to 
the  Falls  has  been  made.  The  fall  of  Pistyll-y-Cain  is  on  the  Afon  Cain,  just 
above  its  junction  with  the  Mawddach,  a  few  yards  from  the  bridge  (to 
the  left);  and  the  Ehaiadr  Mawddach  is  reached  by  keeping  straight  on  for 
2  min.  more.  The  'Pistyll-y-Cain,  plunging  from  a  height  of  150  ft.  into 
a  deep  rocky  cauldron,  is  one  of  the  most  graceful  waterfalls  in  Wales. 
The  Rhaiadr  Mawddach  is  wider,  but  neither  so  high  nor  so  picturesque. 

We  may  now  return  to  Dolgelley ,  either  by  the  route  already  tra- 
versed, or  by  crossing  the  Mawddach  by  the  bridge  a  little  above  the  fall 
and  descending  on  its  E.  bank.  If  we  select  the  latter  route  we  turn  to 
the  left  after  about  1,4  br.,  and  wind  round  the  hillside  to  the  0/2  hr.) 
valley  of  the  Afon-yr-Allt.  a  feeder  of  the  Mawddach,  along  which  we 
may  descend  to  the  right,  passing  an  old  copper-mine,  to  the  (I/2  hr.) 
track  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mawddach  mentioned  above.  Thence  we 
either  cross  the  bridge  to  Tyn-y-Groes  (p.  303),  or  return  to  Dolgelley  by 
the  Precipice  Walk  (comp.  p.  303). 

The  Torrent  Walk ,  the  Precipice  Walk ,  and  the  Tyn-y-Groes  and 
Pistyll-y-Cain  excursion  may  all  be  included  in  one  long  day,  somewhat 
as  follows.  Drive  to  one  end  of  Torrent  Walk  (i '4  hr.)  5  walk  through  it 
(i/2hr.) ;  drive  from  the  other  end  to  Maes-y-Brynar  or  Nannau  (^/i  hr.) ;  make 
the  circuit  of  the  Precipice  Walk  (1  hr.) ;  drive  from  Maes-y-Brynar  to 
the  Gunpowder  Works  near  Pistyll-y-Cain  (3  hrs.);  visit  the  three  Falls 
(1  hr.);  drive  back  to  Dolgelley  (2  hrs.).  This  makes  8V2  hrs,,  without 
including  stoppages.  Good  walkers  could  do  the  entire  round  in  the  same 
time,  descending  directly  from  thePrecipiceWalk  to  Tyn-y-Groes  (see  p.  303). 
The  total  distance  would  be  21  M.,  equivalent  to  25-30  M.  on  a  level  road. 

Ascent  of  Cadee  Idris.  After  that  of  Snowdon  this  is  the  most 
popular  ascent  in  Wales,  and  the  view  from  the  top  is  considered  by 
many  to  surpass  that  from  the  higher  mountain.  From  Dolgelley  there 
are  three  recognized  routes  to  the  top  (21/4-4  hrs.),  but  the  third  of  those 
described  below  should  be  reserved  for  the  descent,  as  the  climb  up  the 
steep  'scree'  known  as  the  'Foxes'  Path'  is  very  fatiguing.  Mountaineers, 
however,  who  do  not  object  to  a  scramble  and  who  wish  to  make  the 
descent  to  Barmouth,  Towyn,  or  Tal-y-Llyn,  may  prefer  the  Foxes' 
Path  as  the  shortest  and  in  many  ways  the  most  interesting  of  the  three 
routes.  Guides  (Qs.)  may  be  dispensed  with  in  good  weather  by  those 
who  have  had  anv  experience  in  mountain-climbing.  Ascent  from  Arthog, 
see  p.  301  •,  from  Tal-y-Llyn,  see  p.  270. 

1.  By  the  Bridle  Path  (2V2-3  hrs.;  pony  85.).  We  leave  Dolgelley 
by  the  road  leading  S.W.  from  the  church,  and  where  it  branches,  just 
outside  the  village,  at  a  letter-box,  we  keep  up  hill  to  the  left.  This  is 
the  old  road  to  Towyn  (p.  270),  which  ascends  steadily  for  about  IV2  M. 
and  then  becomes  more  level.  1/2  ^I-  (2  M.  from  Dolgelley)  Llyn  Gwernan, 
a  small  lake  on  the  right,  with  a  small  inn  at  its  farther  end ,  opposite 
which  the  Foxes'  Path  route  begins.  We,  however,  follow  the  road  for 
1/2  M.  more,  cross  a  small  bridge,  and  turn  to  the  left,  just  on  this  side 
of  a  second  bridge.  The  bridle-path  crosses  a  stream,  and  ascends  through 
a  plantation,  keeping  the  direction  of  the  depression  between  the  saddle 
of  Cader  and  Tyrau  Mawr  (p.  301).  In  about  40  min.  after  leaving  the 
road,  the  path' reaches  the  top  of  the  ridge  and  joins  the  route  from 
Arthog  at  two  stone  posts.     Thence,  see  p.  301. 

2.  Along  the  Ridge  vid  Mynydd  Moel  (Aran  route  ;  31/2-4  hrs.).  As  there 
is  no  regular  path,  this  ascent  should  not  be  attempted  in  bad  weather 
without  a  guide.  Leaving  the  town  by  the  Dinas  Mawddwy  road  (S.E.) 
we  cross  the  bridge  over  the  Aran  and  turn  down  a  lane  to  the  right. 
After  1/2  M.,  opposite  Pandy  Mill,  we  bend  to  the  left,  and  a  little  farther 
on  turn  sharply  to  the  right,  through  a  gate.  About  3  4  M.  beyond  Pandy 
Mill  the  lane  quits  the  Aran  (which  here  turns  to  the  right),  passes  some 
farm-steadings,  and  reaches  the  open  side  of  a  spur  of  Mynydd  Moel,  the 
easternmost  summit  of  the  Cader  ridge.  The  direct  route  to  the  top  of 
Mynydd  Moel  leads  to  the  right,  but  it  is  better  to  keep  somewhat  to  the 
left,   in  order  to  avoid  the  marshy  hollow  of  the  Aran,  and  to  strike  the 


from  Dolgelley.  CADER  IDRIS.  41.  Route.     305 

ridge  a  little  more  to  tlie  E.  To  the  right  lies  the  little  Llyn  Aran.,  in 
which  the  gtream  takes  its  rise.  The  top  of  Mynydd  Moel  (2835  ft.  ;  cairn) 
commands  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view,  including  Dolgelley,  which  is 
not  visible  from  "the  Pen-y-Gader.  The  easy  walk  along  the  ridge  from 
Mynydd  Moel  to  the  summit  of  Cader  takes  15-20  minutes.  Llyn-y-Gader 
and  Llyn-y-Gafr  (see  below)  soon  come  into  view  on  the  right.  Good  walkers 
may  continue  their  walk  along  the  ridge  to  Tyrau  Mawr  and  (2  hrs.) 
Arthog  (comp.  p.  301),  returning  to  Dolgelley  by  an  evening-train. 

3.  By  the  Foxes'  Path  (2V4-23/4  hrs.).  From  Dolgelley  to  (21/4  M.)  the  inn 
at  the  S.W.  end  of  Llyn  Gwernan,  see  p.  304.  Here  we  leave  the  road  by 
a  wicket  on  the  left,  and  follow  a  path  over  a  grassy  hill,  with  a  little 
coppice.  In  6-7  min.  we  cross  a  wall  by  a  stile,  and  soon  reach  a  point 
from  which  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  range  of  Cader  5  the  steep 
stony  slope  to  the  left  of  the  summit  is  the  'Foxes'  Path'.  We  then 
descend  to  (3-4  min.)  a  gate,  ascend  along  a  wall,  on  the  other  side  of 
which  is  a  small  wood,  and  soon  reach  the  open  hillside.  After  5  min.  we 
turn  to  the  right  through  a  gate  at  a  sheepfold  and  go  straight  on,  soon 
with  a  wall  to  our  right.  5  min.  Brook  with  a  low  wall  and  a  small 
ladder,  just  beyond  which  we  pass  a  soft  piece  of  ground.  8  min.  Gate 
in  a  wall;  2  min.  Stream  crossed  by  stepping-stones;  3  min.  Llyn-y-Gafr.^ 
a  small  lake,  well  stocked  with  trout.  Beyond  this  point  the  path  ceases, 
but  the  route  can  scarcely  be  missed.  Crossing  the  stream  issuing  from 
Llyn-y-Gafr,  we  have  a  sharp  climb  of  about  V*  hr.  to  surmount  the 
rock-strewn  ridge  intervening  between  Llyn-y-Gafr  and  Llyn-y-Gader,  a 
somewhat  larger  lake  finely  situated  below  the  wall  of  rock  rising 
perpendicularly  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  At  the  S.  end  of  Llyn-y- 
Gader  begins  the  steep  slope  of  loose  shingle,  called  the  ''Foxes'  Path\ 
which  is  about  900  ft.  in  height  and  inclined  at  an  angle  of  35**.  Its 
ascent  is  extremely  fatiguing,  but  there  is  no  danger,  though  the  hind- 
most members  of  a  party  should  beware  of  falling  stones.  The  usual  time 
required  to  ascend  this  scree  is  1/2-^/4  hr.  At  the  top  of  the  slope  we  turn 
to  the  right  and  pass  over  smooth  turf  to  (0  min.)  the  summit. 

[In  descending,  the  'Foxes'  Path'  (the  top  of  which  is  indicated  by  a 
small  cairn)  is  easy,  as  the  loose  shingle  yields  to  our  weight  and  carries 
us  down  with  little  exertion.  We  can  scarcely  go  wrong  after  passing 
Llyn-y-Gafr,  where  the  faintly-defined  path  begins  and  follows  the  general 
direction  of  the  stream  issuing  from  the  Llyn.  A  little  below  the  lake  we 
cross  the  brook  by  the  stepping-stones.  At  the  gap  in  the  wall,  we  keep 
to  the  right,  on  this  side  of  the  wall.  Llyn  Gwernan  now  soon  comes  into 
sight  and  determines  our  course.] 

*Cader  Idris  (2925  ft.),  or  the  chair  of  the  giant  Idris,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautifully  shaped  mountains  in  England,  presenting  a  long  row  of 
wall-like  precipices  towards  the  estuary  of  the  Mawddach  on  the  N.,  while 
on  the  three  other  sides  it  sends  oQ"  spurs  towards  the  Arans,  Plinlimmon, 
and  Cardigan  Bay.  The  total  length  of  the  Cader  ridge  from  E.  to  ^y. 
is  about  7  M. :,  above  the  general  level  of  the  ridge  rise  the  four  main 
summits  (named  from  E.  to  W.)  of  Mynydd  Moel.,  Pen-y-Gader  (the  top), 
Cyfrwy,  or  the  'Saddle,  and  Tyrau  Mawr.  The  *View  from  the  cairn  on 
the  summit  is  very  extensive.  On  the  N.  is  the  beautiful  estuary  of  the 
Mawddach,  backed  by  the  Llawllech  range  of  hills,  culminating  in  Diphwys 
(to  the  right),  while  beyond  these  again  rise  the  Carnarvon  Mts.,  visible 
in  their  entire  extent  from  Bardsey  Isle,  at  the  end  of  the  Lleyn  pro- 
montory, on  the  left  (S.W.),  to  Carnedd  Llewelyn  on  the  right  (X.K.). 
The  peak  of  Snowdon,  rising  above  the  Rhinog  Fach.  is  easily  distinguish- 
able, and  the  other  summits  may  be  identified  from  the  map  (Moel  Hebog 
and  the  Rivals  to  the  left  of  Snowdon;  Moel  Siabod,  the  Glyders,  etc.,  to 
the  right).  To  the  right,  more  in  the  foreground,  is  the  rounded  outline 
of  Rhobell  Fawr,  to  the  left  of  which  we  have  a  view  of  the  Ganllwyd  glen 
and  the  Precipice  Walk.  The  dark  little  tarn  almost  vertically  below  the 
summit  on  this  side  is  the  Llyn-y-Gader  (see  above).  To  the  N.E.  we  have 
a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Wnion,  extending  to  Bala  Lake;  Dol- 
gelley, however,  is  hidden.  The  peaks  to  the  left  of  Bala  are  the 
Arenigs,    those    to    the    right    the   Arans,   while    Moel   Fammau,   with   its 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  20 


306     Route -11.  THE  ARANS.  From  Barmouth 

tower,  rises  in  the  extreme  distance  beyond  the  lake.  More  to  the  right 
are  the  Berwyns,  and  almost  due  E.  are  the  three  peaks  of  the  Breidden 
Hills,  near  Shrewsbury.  In  exceptionally  clear  weather  even  the  Wrekin 
(p.  2G5)  is  said  to  be  visible  in  this  direction.  To  the  S.  is  the  somewhat 
featureless  expanse  of  rounded  green  hills,  of  which  Plinlimmon  is  the 
highest  point,  while  the  Carmarthen  Van  may  sometimes  be  descried  in 
the  extreme  distance.  To  the  W.  we  have  Cardigan  Bay  and  the  coast 
as  far  S.  as  St.  David's  Head.  Tal-y-Llyn  is  not  visible",  but  we  enjoy 
fS.W.)  a  pretty  peep  down  the  green  valley  of  the  Dysynni^  with  the 
Bird  Rock.  From  the  S.  side  of  the  summit-plateau,  a  short  way  from 
the  cairn,  we  obtain  a  striking  view  of  the  "Llyn-y-Gae^  an  ideal  mountain 
tarn,  situated  in  a  wild  rocky  hollow  at  the  foot  of  almost  vertical  crags. 
Those  who  do  not  wish  to  return  to  Dolgelley  may  descend  either  to  Arthog 
(2  hrs.,  to  Barmouth  3  hrs. ;  comp.  p.  301),  or  to  Tal-y-Llyn  (IV2-2V2  hrs.; 
p.  270),  or  to  Towyn  (2V'2-3  hrs.  to  Abergynolwyn,  see  p.  270). 

Excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Dolgelley  to  Towyn  (p.  270),  by 
the  coast-road  20  M.,  by  the  mountain-road  17  M. ;  to  Tal-y-Llyn  (p.  270), 
new  road  91/2  M.,  old  road  8V2  M. ;  to  Dinas  Mawddwy  (p.  268),  IOV2  M., 
old  road  9  M. :  to  Machynlleth  (p.  269),  old  road  141/2  M.,  new  road  16  31. 
Visitors  bound  for  Machynlleth  may  include  Dinas  Mawddwy  or  Tal-y-Llyn  ; 
from  the  former  a  railway  runs  to  Machynlleth  down  the  pretty  valley 
of  the  Dovey^  while  a  visit  to  the  Llyn  requires  but  a  short  digression 
from  the  Machynlleth  road.  At  the  highest  point  (860  ft.)  of  the  road  to 
Tal-y-Llyn  lies  the  little  Llyn  Ti-igraienyn,  or  'Lake  of  the  Three  Pebbles', 
named  from  three  huge  boulders,  which  Idris  is  said  to  have  shaken  out 
of  his  shoe.  —  From  Dolgelley  to  (10  M.)   Barmouth  by  road,   see  p.  302. 

Continuation  of  Railway  Journey.  Beyond  Dolgelley  the 
train  passes  the  mansion  of  Dolserau,  near  which  is  the  Torrent 
Walk  [p.  302).  121/2  M.  Bont  Neu-ydd,  the  nearest  station  for  the 
ascents  of  Moel  Offrwm  (p.  302)  and  Rhobell  Fawr  (2409  ft. ; 
21/4  hrs.,  via  Llanfaehreth).  On  leaving  Bont  Newydd  we  enjoy  a 
fine  retrospect  C^ight)  of  the  complete  outline  of  Cader  Idris.  The 
line  ascends  the  charming  valley  of  the  Wnion,  and  the  Arans  (see 
below)  soon  come  into  sight  on  the  right.  —  16  M.  Drws-y-Nant. 

Drws-y-Xant  is  the  starting-point  for  the  shortest  ascent  (11/4-1^/2  hr.) 
of  Aran  Mawddwy  (2972  ft.) ,  the  highest  mountain  in  Mid-Wales.  The 
twin -summit  of  Aran  Benllyn  (2902  ft.)  is  70  ft.  lower.  Though  47  ft. 
higher  than  Cader  Idris,  Aran  Mawddwy  is  not  such  an  imposing  mountain, 
nor  is  the  view  from  the  top  so  tine.  Bala  Lake  (p.  307)  is  conspicuous. 
—  The  descent  may  be  made  via  (1/2  hr.)  Aran  Benllyn  to  (1  hr.)  Llamtwchllyn 
(see  below),  or  on  the  S.  side  to  (2  hrs.)  Dinas  Mawddwy  (p.  268). 

About  3  M.  beyond  Drws-y-Nant  we  reach  the  highest  point  of 
the  line  (760  ft.)  and  enter  the  bleak  valley  of  the  Dwfrdwy.  — 
221/.2  M.  Llanuwchllyn  (*Goat  Inn,  plain),  another  good  starting- 
point  for  the  ascent  of  the  Arans  (2  hrs. ;  see  above).  Good  walkers 
may  also  start  here  for  the  ascent  of  Arenig  Fawr  (2800  ft.  ;  4  hrs.), 
descending  to  (1  hr.)  Arenig  station  (p.  307).  A  fine  walk  leads 
o\ex Bwlch-y-Groes  ('Pass  of  the  Cross';  1950  ft.},  and  through  the 
wooded  valley  of  the  Dovey  to  (121/2  M.)  Dinas  Mawddwy  (p.  268). 

Llanuwchllyn  is  only  1  M.  from  the  S.  end  of  Bala  Lake  (600  ft.). 
To  the  left,  beyond  the  lake,  we  see  the  Arenigs  and  the  small 
church  of  Llanycil.  To  the  right  rise  the  Berwyns  (p.  307).  — 
27  M.  Bala  Junction,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  is  the  station  for  a 
branch-line  to  (3/4  M.)  Bala  and  Ffestiniog  (see  p.  307).  Between 
Bala  Junction  and  the  town  a  fine  view  is  obtained  to  the  left. 


to  Chester.  BALA.  41.  Route.     307 

Bala  (*  White  Lion,  R.  &  A.  45.,  D.  4,9. ;  Plas  Goch,  same  prop- 
rietor; BuWs  Head),  a  small  town  with  1600  irihab,,  lies  near 
the  N.  end  of  Bala  Lake,  or  Llyn  Tegid ,  the  largest  natural  lake 
in  Wales  (4  M.  long  and  1  M.  broad).  The  town  itself  is  of  little 
interest,  but  it  may  be  made  the  starting-point  of  several  pleasant 
excursions.  The  most  prominent  buildings  are  the  Calvinistic  Me- 
thodist College  and  the  English  Church,  both  built  of  stone  from 
Vryn  Quarry.  The  statue  in  front  of  the  Methodist  Chapel  is 
that  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Charles  (d.  1814),  the  originator  of  the 
British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society ,  who  is  buried  in  the  church- 
yard of  Llanycil  (p.  306),  the  parish-church  of  Bala.  The  mound 
named  the  Tomen-y-Bala  commands  a  good  view  of  Bala  Lake  and 
the  valley  of  the  river  Dee,  which  here  issues  from  the  lake.  The 
lake  affords  good  perch  and  pike  fishing,  and  trout-streams  abound 
in  the  neighbourhood. 

Excursions  from  Bala.  Though  the  scenery  of  Bala  Lake  is  not 
imposing,  it  is  pleasant  to  walk  or  drive  round  it  (11  M.).  The  walker 
may  cut  oflf  4  M.  by  faking  the  railway  between  Bala  and  Llanuwchllyn 
(see  p.  306).  The  two  chief  hotels  keep  boats  for  excursions  nn  the  lake.  — 
For  a  visit  to  ' Pistyll  Rhaiadr  (p.  268)  we  take  the  train  to  (7  M.)  Llan- 
drillo  (p.  308),  and  walk  thence  across  the  Berwyn  Hills  (c.  2500  ft.)  to 
(T'/a  M.J  the  waterfall.  Whether  the  traveller  returns  to  Bala  or  goes  on 
to  Oswestry  (see  p.  268),  this  excursion  requires  a  whole  day.  —  The  new 
Liverpool  Reservoir  ('Lake  Vyrnwy'),  in  the  Valley  of  Llamc'ddyn.  10  M.  to 
the  vS.  of  Bala,  is  interesting,  especially  to  engineers.  The  direct  route 
(a  fair  mountain-road;  no  inns)  ascends  the  Hirnant  Valley,  passes  Moel- 
y-Geifr  (2055  ft.),  to  the  right,  at  (7  M.)  the  head  of  the  pass,  and  then 
descends  to  (3  31.)  Rhiwargor.  at  the  N.  end  of  the  reservoir.  At  the  S.t:. 
end,  5  M.  farther,  are  the  new  church  of  Llanwddyn  and  the  Lake  Vyrntcy 
Hotel  (E.  &  A.  -is.  6(7.,  D.  45.  6f7.).  Lake  Vyrnwy,  supposed  to  occupy  the 
bed  of  a  post-glacial  lake,  was  formed  in  18^5-90  by  damming  up  the 
river  Vyrnwy  by  a  huge  embankment  of  solid  masonry,  1200  ft.  long  and 
100  ft.  hi;ih.  It"  covers  the  site  of  the  old  village  of  Llanwddyn,  and  of 
the  parish  church,  several  chapels,  and  three  public  houses,  besides  many 
farms.  A  Gothic  Tower  marks  the  beginning  of  the  aqueduct,  67  M.  long, 
which  conveys  the  water  to  Liverpool ,  the  first  2^/4  31.  being  formed 
by  the  Hirnant  Tunnel.  The  overtlow  from  the  lake  escapes  through 
33  arches  in  the  upper  part  of  the  dam,  and  in  wet  weather  forms  a 
cascade  84  ft.  in  height  and  SOO  ft.  in  width.  The  lake  is  stocked  with 
Loch  Leven  trout  (fishing-licence  4s.  per  day,  boat  and  man  5s.).  Active 
pedestrians  may  combine  this  excursion  with  the  last  by  sleeping  at 
Llanrhaiadr  (p.  285),  10  M.  from  the  Lake  Vyrnwy  Hotel  and  4  M.  from 
Pistyll  Rhaiadr.  From  the  reservoir  to  Dinas  ilawddy,  see  p.  26S;  io  L  Ian- 
fylUn,  see  p.  268.  —  The  ascent  of  the  Arans  and  the  walk  by  the  Btclch-y- 
Groes  to  Binas  ilaicddwy  are  brought  within  easy  reach  of  Bala  by  the 
railway  to  Llanuwchllyn  (see  p.  306).  —  The  Arenigs.  see  below. 

From  Bala  Junction  toBlaenauFfestiniog,25^-.'M.,  railway  (G.W.R.) 
in  1  hr.  10  min.  (fares  4«.  Id.,  Is.  8d.,  2s.  Id.).  As  we  leave  the  junction 
we  see  Bala  Lake  to  the  left.  3,4  M.  Bala  Town  (see  above).  The  line 
now  runs  through  the  valley  of  the  Tryweryn ,  and  the  Arenigs  soon 
come  into  view  on  the  left.  Beyond  (3i  4  M.)  Frongoch  the  bare  slopes  of 
Mynydd  Nodal  rise  on  the  left.  —  8'/4  M.  Arenig  (Rhyd-y-Fen  Inn,  at  the 
foot  of  Arenig  Fach,  3/4  3L  from  the  station),  a  small  station  situated 
between  the  two  Arenigs.  The  ascent  of  Arenig  Fawr  (2800  ft.),  to  the  S. 
of  the  station,  takes  I-IV2  hr.  Extensive  *View  from  the  top,  including 
Snowdon,  Cader  Idris,  the  Arans,  and  the  sea.  At  the  N.W.  base  of  the 
mountain,  2/4  jr.  from  the  station,  lies  the  little  Llyn  Arenig,  The  descent 
may  be  made  to  Llanuwchllyn  (comp.  p.  306).     The  ascent  of  the  Arenig 

20* 


308     Route  41.  CORWEN.  From  Barmouth 

Fach  (2264  ft.)  may  be  made  from  the  inn  in  3/^  jir.  —  At  Llyn  Tryweryn 
the  line  reaches  its  highest  point  (1196  ft.)  and  begins  the  descent  through 
the  barren  Cwm  Proesor.  The  Rhinogs  (p.  299),  and  soon  afterwards 
Cader  Idris  (p.  305),  are  seen  to  the  left^  —  From  (17  M.)  Trawsfynydd 
walkers  may  reach  (14  M.)  Llanbedr  via  the  Bwlch  Tyddiad  and  the 
Roman  Steps  (comp.  p.  299).  —  The  line  here  turns  to  "the  N.  On  the 
right  is  Tomen-y-Mw  (p.  317)-,  in  front  (left)  the  Moelwyns.  —  20  M. 
Maentwrog  Road  ^  2  M.  from  Maentwrog  (p.  317).  The  train  now  sweeps 
round  the  valley  of  the  Cynfael,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Ffestiniog 
mountains.  22  M.  Ffestiniog  Village  (p.  316).  —  25V2  M.  Blaenau  Ffestiniog 
(p.  315). 

Beyond  Bala  the  train  passes  through  a  short  tunnel  and  de- 
scends the  -well-wooded  valley  of  the  Dee.  On  the  right  -we  pass  the 
large  mansion  of  Pale  (occupied  by  the  Queen  in  1889).  just  before 
reaching  (31  M.)  Llandderfel,  the  church  of  which,  also  to  the 
right,  contains  two  curious  -wooden  relics  known  as  St.  Derfel's 
horse  (stag?)  and  crozier.  —  34  M.  Llandrillo  (Dudley  Arms,  V2  ^^• 
from  the  station)  is  the  starting-point  for  the  walk  to  (3  hrs.")  Pistyll 
Rhaiadr  (see  p.  307).  Cader  Fronwen  (2573  ft. ;  view),  the  nearest 
of  the  Berwyns,  may  be  ascended  in  I1/2  hr. 

38  M.  Corwen  (Owen  Glyndwr,  1/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station ; 
Rail.  Refreshment  Rooms),  a  small  town  with  2500  inhab.,  is  a  good 
centre  for  anglers  (fishing  in  the  Dee,  Alwen,  etc.).  The  church 
contains  a  curious  monument  to  lorwerth  Sullen,  one  of  its  early 
vicars ;  and  outside  is  the  shaft  of  a  cross  ascribed  to  the  8th  cen- 
tury. The  rude  cross  on  the  lintel  of  the  S.  door  is  said  to  be 
the  mark  of  Owen  Glendower's  dagger.  It  was  at  Corwen  that  this 
famous  patriot  assembled  his  forces  before  the  battle  of  Shrewsbury, 
and  most  of  the  land  round  the  town  belonged  to  him.  —  Railway 
(L.N.W.)  from  Corwen  to  Rhyl,  see  p.  284. 

Beyond  (41  M.)  Carrog  we  pass  Owen  Glendower^s  Mound  on 
the  left ,  while  on  the  other  side  are  the  slopes  of  the  Berwyns 
{MoelFerna,  2070  ft.).  —  43  M.  Glyndyfrdwy  (Inn),  a  small  fishing- 
station,  from  which  Owen  Glendower  took  his  name.  The  river 
makes  a  long  curve  to  the  left,  which  the  railway  avoids  by  a  tunnel 
V2  M.  long.  On  emerging  from  the  tunnel  we  have  a  charming 
glimpsej  to  the  left,  of  the  wooded  valley,  with  Moel-y-Gamelin 
(1897  ft.)  and  Moel  Morfydd  (1804  ft.)  in  the  background,  while  in 
front  are  the  romantic  church  of  Llantysilio  and  Bryntysilio,  the 
summer-home  of  Sir  Theodore  and  Lady  Martin  (Helen  Faucit). 
471/2  M.  Berwyn  (Chain  Bridge  Hotel ;  p.  309). 

49  M.  Llangollen.  —  Hotels.  *Hand  Hotel,  an  old  and  comfort- 
able house,  close  to  the  Dee,  R.  <k  A.  3s.  9d.,  D.  4^.  (harper  in  the  hall); 
Royal  Hotel,  recently  enlarged  and  refurnished,  well  spoken  of,  similar 
chapiies.  —  Grapes;  Eagle:  Cambkian. 

Fishing.    Information  may  be  obtained  of  Mr.  Hugh  Jones,  news-agent, 

Llamjollen  (pron.  Thlangothlen) ,  or  the  'church  of  St.  Collen', 
a  neat  little  town  with  3225  inhab.,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the 
river  Dee ,  in  a  hollow  surrounded  with  hills.  Its  Welsh  flannel 
and   beer  have  a  reputation.     The   town  is  a  favourite  resort  of 


to  Chester,  LLANGOLLEN.  41.  Route.     309 

anglers,  who  find  good  sport  in  the  Dee  and  its  tributaries.  The 
fishermen  of  the  Dee  still  use  the  'coracle',  or  ancient  British  boat, 
made  of  skins  (now-a-days  tarpaulin)  stretched  over  a  slight  frame- 
work of  wood.  The  Churchy  a  low  Gothic  building,  near  the  centre 
of  the  town,  contains  a  good  oaken  ceiling.  In  the  churchyard  is 
a  monument  to  the  Ladies  of  Llangollen  and  Mary  Carryl  (see 
below).  The  Bridge  over  the  Dee,,  a  plain  structure  with  four 
pointed  arches,  used  to  be  reckoned  for  some  inscrutable  reason 
among  the  'Seven  Wonders  of  Wales'. 

The  ruins  of  Dinas  Bran  Castle  O/2  br.  5  donkev  Is.)  surmount  the 
boldly-formed  hill  (910  ft.)  on  the  N.  side  of  the  ''Vale  of  Llangollen. 
We  cross  the  bridge  over  the  Dee,  proceed  a  few  paces  to  the  right, 
and  then  ascend  to  the  left  to  a  bridge  over  the  Shropshire  Union  Canal. 
On  the  other  side  we  find  ourselves  opposite  a  sign-post,  pointing  on  the 
right  to  the  Trevor  Rocks,  on  the  left  to  the  Eglwyseg  Rocks,  and  straight 
on  to  Dinas  Bran.  The  path  to  the  latter  ascends  through  a  few  fields, 
crossing  tw^o  cart-tracks,  and  reaches  the  open  hillside  at  a  gate  just  above 
a  house  where  refreshments  are  sold.  The  ruins  at  the  top  are  of  very 
early  origin,  but  are  not  so  picturesque  as  they  appear  from  below.  The 
*View  includes  the  finely  shaped  Eglwyseg  Rocks  on  the  N.,  the  valley 
of  the  Dee  on  the  E.,  Llangollen  to  the  S.,  Moel-y-Geraint  and  the  Ber- 
wyns  to  the  S.W.,  and  Moel-y-Gamelin  to  the  N.W. 

The  view  from  'Moel-y-Geraint  (1000  ft.;  1/2  br.),  or  the  Barber's  Hill, 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  similar  to  that  from  Dinas  Bran,  but 
more  extensive.  The  ascent  begins  by  a  steep  lane  in  Hall  St.  From  the 
top  we  may  descend  to  Berwyn  (p.  308)  and  include  a  visit  to  Valle  Cru- 
cis  Abbey  (p.  310)  in  our  round. 

Plas  Newydd  (i.e.  'New  Place"),  the  residence  of  the  celebrated  'La- 
dies of  Llangollen  ,  is  situated  about  1/3  ^I-  to  the  S.  of  the  bridge.  To 
reach  it  we  turn  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  Castle  Street  and  then  ascend 
to  the  right  of  the  Grapes  Hotel.  Where  the  road  forks  we  keep  to  the 
left,  and  almost  immediately  reach  a  path  with  a  railing  on  the  left, 
which  leads  to  the  house.  Admission  Qd.  —  The  'Ladies  of  Llangollen" 
were  two  Irish  damsels.  Lady  Eleanor  Butler  and  the  Hon.  Sarah  Fon- 
sonby,  who  swore  'eternal  friendship',  devoted  themselves  to  a  life  of 
celibacy,  and  secretly  left  their  homes  together  in  1776.  At  first  they 
settled  at  Denbigh,  but  afterwards  removed  to  Llangollen,  where  they 
lived  together  for  half-a-century.  Their  romantic  story,  and  the  half- 
masculine  dress  they  affected,  made  them  widely  known,  and  they  re- 
ceived visits  from  many  eminent  personages.  Lady  Eleanor  Butler,  who 
was  17  years  older  than  her  companion,  died  in  1S29  at  the  age  of  90,  and 
Miss  Ponsonby  died  two  years  later.  Their  faithful  servant,  Mary  Carryl 
(see  above),  who  had  bought  for  them  with  her  savings  the  freehold 
of  Plas  Newydd,  died  in  1809.  —  The  house,  to  which  a  wing  was  added 
by  the  late  General  Yorke,  now  belongs  to  Mr.  G.  II.  Robertson,  a  well- 
known  Liverpool  antiquary.  Both  inside  and  out  it  is  decorated  with 
good  carvings  in  oak;  and  it  contains  a  few  relics  of  the  'Ladies',  curiosi- 
ties, paintings,  and  the  like. 

We  may  now  either  return  to  Llangollen  direct,  or  extend  our  walk 
round  Pen-y-Coed^  the  hill  to  the  S.E.  of  Plas  Newydd.  In  the  latter  case 
we  pass  (V2  M.)  to  the  right  of  Pengwern  Hall,  now  a  farm-house,  but 
originally  (10th  cent.)  the  residence  of  Tudor  Trevor,  the  ancestor  of  the 
Mostyn  family. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  walks  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Llangollen  is 
the  round  of  5-6  M.  to  Berwyn  (P/a  M.;  also  reached  by  rail  or  by  jiloa- 
sure-boats  on  the  canal),  the  Chain  Bridge,  Llauiysilio  Church,  and  Valle 
Criicis  Abbey.  Good  walkers  may  add  the  ascent  of  Moel-y-Gamelin.  — 
Walkers  cross  the  bridge  and  then  follow  (to  the  left)  the  well-shaded 
towing-path  of  the  above-mentioned  Canal.  After  about  1  M.  the  canal 
turns  to   the  left,  while  the  shortest  route  to  (V2  ^L)  Valle  Crucis  (see 


310     Route  41.  VALLE  CRUCIS.  From  Barmouth 

below)  leads  across  the  bridge  to  the  right.  Continuing  to  follow  the 
canal  we  soon  reach  (8/4  M.)  the  Chain  Bridge  (Inn),  opposite  Bericyn 
station,  perhaps  the  most  charming  spot  on  the  Dee.  A  little  beyond  the 
inn  we  pass  a  weir,  where  the  canal  issues  from  the  Dee,  and  reach  the 
romantically- situated  little  church  oi  Llantysilio  (service  in  English  at 
11.15  a.m.  and  3.15  p.m.). 

Behind  Berwyn  and  Llantysilio  rises  the  hill  called  Braich-y-Owynt^ 
and  we  may  proceed  from  the  latter  to  Valle  Crucis  (about  1  M.)  round 
either  side  of  this  hill  or  over  its  top.  If  we  keep  to  the  N.  side  of  the 
hill  we  turn  to  the  right  on  reaching  the  highroad  to  Ruthin  on  the 
other  side;  if  we  choose  the  S.  side  we  turn  to  the  left.  The  abbey 
lies  a  little  to  the  E.  of  the  road  (bell  at  the  entrance;  charge  6(i.). 

■  Valle  Crucis  Abbey,  founded  in  the  year  1200  by  Madog  ap  Gruf- 
fydd  Maelor  of  Dinas  Bran,  and  dissolved  in  1535,  is  the  most  important 
monastic  ruin  in  X.  Wales.  It  was  a  Cistercian  establishment,  dedicated 
to  the  Virgin  Marv.  The  chief  part  of  the  ruin  is  the  Churchy  in  the  E.  E. 
style,  which  is  165  ft.  long  (transepts  98  ft.)  and  671/2  ft.  wide.  The  W.  front 
(probably  completed  about  1250),  with  its  three  Dec.  windows  over  the 
doorway  and  a  rose-window  above,  is  in  good  preservation.  The  E.  end, 
which  contains  three  lancet  windows,  seems  to  be  the  oldest  part  of  the 
edifice.  On  the  S.  side  the  church  is  adjoined  by  some  remains  of  the 
conventual  buildings,  including  the  chapter-house,  with  the  dormitories 
above  it.  The  juxtaposition  of  three  different  styles  of  doorway  here 
(Norman,  E.  E.,  and  Flamboyant)  should  be  noticed. 

We  now  return  to  the  road  and  follow  it  (to  the  right)  for  about 
1/4  M.  to  the  second  milestone  from  Llangollen.  Opposite  this,  in  a  field 
to  the  right,  stands  Eliseg's  Pillar,  erected  by  Concenn  in  the  8th  or 
9th  cent,  in  memory  of  his  great-grandfather  Eliseg,  Prince  of  Powys. 
The  present  inscription  dates  from  the  renovation  of  the  monument  in 
1779.  The  name  of  the  valley  is  usually  attributed  to  this  'cross",  though 
some  authorities  explain  it  by  the  shape  of  the  valley  itself. 

The  ascent  of  Moel-y-Gamelin  (1850  ft.;  IV2  hr.)  may  be  made  either 
direct  from  Llantysilio  or  from  the  Oernant  slate-quarries  on  the  Ruthin 
road,  about  2  M.  beyond  Eliseg's  Pillar.  The  view  is  extensive,  including 
Snowdon,  the  Arans,  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  and  the  valley  of  the  Dee. 

ExccEsiON  TO  THE  Eglwtseg  Rocks.  We  cross  the  railway  and  canal, 
and  at  the  sign-post  mentioned  at  p.  309  either  turn  to  the  left  "and  proceed 
round  the  N.  side  of  the  Dinas  Bran,  or  take  the  lane  to  the  right, 
which  leads  round  the  other  side  of  the  same  hill.  In  either  case  we 
reach  the  nearest  point  of  the  rocks  not  far  from  Tan-y-Castell  Farm, 
2  M.  from  Llangollen.  The  =''Eglwyseg  Rocks,  the  name  of  which  (pron. 
Eglooiseg)  is  probably  connected  with  Eliseg  (see  above) ,  are  a  line  of 
bold  limestone  cliffs,  beginning  near  Dinas  Bran  and  sweeping  round  in 
a  semicircle  for  a  distance  of  about  4M.  They  form  the  W.  escarpment 
of  an  upland  plateau  stretching  towards  the  E.  The  breezy  walk  along 
their  summit  to  the  'World's  End"  (to  which  there  is  also  a  carriage-road), 
5  M.  from  Llangollen,  is  very  delightful  in  fine  weather. 

Chirk  Castle.  This  excursion  may  be  made  either  by  railway  to 
(11  M.)  Chirl<  (changing  carriages  atRuabon,  see  below;  3/4  br.),  by  pleasure 
boat  on  the  canal  (p.  309),  by  carriage  (London  and  Holyhead  road;  9  M.), 
on  foot  (direct  5  M.,  via  Pennant  6  M.),  or  on  foot  to  "(3  M.)  Glyn  Ceiriog 
and  thence  by  steam-tramway.  —  The  direct  walking-route,  which  is  also 
practicable  for  riders,  leads  over  the  E.  end  of  Glyn  Bill.  We  follow 
the  road  to  the  left  of  the  Grapes  Hotel,  cross  the  bridge,  and  where 
the  road  forks  (1/4  M.)  keep  uphill  to  the  right.  In  4-5  min.  the  road 
again  forks,  and  we  again  keep  to  the  right.  We  now  skirt  the  wooded 
hill  of  Pen-y-Coed  and  pass  (8  min.)  the  picturesque  modern  house  of 
Tyndwr.  At  the  (5  min.)  cross-roads  we  keep  straight  on  and  ascend 
steeply,  passing  through  a  gate  and  avoiding  two  green  tracks  to  the  left 
(the  second  opposite  a  gate).  After  8  min.  our  track  bends  to  the  left, 
while  another  leads  to  the  right  through  a  gate.  In  1/4  hr.  we  pass  two  large 
beeches  and  in  7  min.  more  join  the  road  at  the  top  of  the  hill.    During 


to  Chester.  CHIRK  CASTLE.  41.  Route.     311 

the  whole  ascent  we  enjoy  fine  views  over  the  valley  of  the  Dee.  At  the 
(3  min.)  cross-roads  we  keep  straight  on.  "We  now  descend,  passing 
(7  min.)  a  cottage  and  soon  reaching  (5  min.)  a  farm  where  Chirk  Castle 
is  in  full  view.  Our  road  keeps  to  the  left,  and  in  7  min.  reaches  the 
park-gate  and  lodge,  whence  a  drive  of  ahout  1/2  M.  leads  to  the  castle, 
passing  a  small  lake  on  the  left.  Offas  Dyke  (p.  2(J8)  crosses  the  park,  but 
the  swelling  is  scarcely  distinguishable. 

From  Glyn  Ceiriog  (New  Inn  Hotel),  with  subterranean  slate-quarries, 
the  tramway  with  open  and  closed  carriages,  runs  via  Doli/wern  and  Pont- 
fadogio  (41/2  M.  ;  fares  Is.,  6rf.)  Castle  Mill,  V2  M.  from  Chirk  Castle,  and  thence 
to  Pontfnen  and  through  Chirk  Castle  Park  to  (6V2  M. ;  Is.  4c7.,  Sd.)  Chirk. 

At  the  castle  we  ring  the  bell  at  a  postern  on  the  right,  at  the  top 
of  a  few  steps  (open  on  Mon.  and  Thurs.,  1-5  p.m.;  adni.  Is.  each  pers.). 
'Chirk  Castle  (R.  Myddelton  Biddulph.  Esq.),  a  rectangular  structure  with 
massive  round  towers  at  the  angles,  enclosing  a  large  quadran:_'le,  was 
erected  by  Roger  Mortimer  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  (1272-1307),  on  the 
site  of  an  ancient  fortress;  but  many  of  the  details  are  of  Elizabethan  or 
later  date.  During  the  Civil  War  it  was  seized  by  the  Royalists  and 
besieged  in  vain  by  its  owner.  Sir  Thomas  Myddelton,  at  that  time  one 
of  the  Parliamentary  leaders.  The  interior  contains  oak-carvings,  family- 
portraits,  and  an  ebony  -Cabinet  presented  to  Sir  Thomas  Myddelton  IJy 
Charles  II.,  the  interior  of  which  is  adorned  with  silver  plaques  and  a 
series  of  exquisitely  coloured  paintings  on  copper,  ascribed  to  Rubens. 
The  ramparts  command  a  line  'View  of  the  beautiful  Park  and  the  sur- 
rounding country.  —  The  village  of  Chirk  lies  about  IV2  M.,  and  the 
station  I1/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  castle  (see  p.  272). 

Good  walkers  may  combine  the  excursion  to  Chirk  with  a  visit 
to  Wynnstay,  the  seat'of  Sir  Watkin  Wynn,  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Llangollen, 
near  Ruabon.  The  house  is  not  shown,  but  visitors  are  admitted,  on  ap- 
plication, to  the  large  Park.,  which  contains  some  good  timber  and 
numerous  deer.     The  three  towers  in  the  park  afford  extensive  views. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  Llangollen  along  the  Dee  to  (10  M.) 
Corwen  (p.  3U8).  The  highroad  on  the  S.  bank  commands  the  most  open 
views,  but  the  road  on  the  N.  bank  is  shadier  and  more  picturesque. 

Continuation  of  Railway  Journey.  As  we  leave  Llangollen 
the  castle  of  Dlnas  Bran  (p.  309)  and  the  Eglwyseg  Rocks  (p.  310) 
are  conspicuous  to  the  left.  Near  (51^2  ^L)  Trevor  "we  have  a  view 
to  the  right  of  the  Dee  Viaduct  of  the  Shrewsbury  and  Chester  railway 
and  of  the  imposing  aqueduct  of  Pont-y-  Cysylltau^  constructed  by 
Telford  for  the  Ellesmere  canal.  52^/2  M.  Acrefair  ('Akryvirc'), 
with  large  iron-works.    To  the  right  is  Wynnstay  Park  (see  above). 

54  M.  Ruabon  (Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  the  junction  of  the 
Barmouth  and  Dolgelley  branch  with  the  main  G.  W.  R.  line  from 
Chester  to  Shrewsbury  (p.  272).  Carriages  often  changed  here. 
From  Ruabon  to  (71  M.)  Chester  or  (89  M.)  Shrewsbury.,  see  R.  40a. 

d.    From  Llandudno  to  Bettws-y-Coed  and  Ffestiniog. 

3OY2  M.  R..vir.WAT  (L.  X.  W.  R.)  to  (18  M.)  BeWrs-u-Coed  in  a/^-l  hr. 
(fares  3s.  2d.,  U.  8d.,  Is.  6d.);  from  Bettws  Xo  {il^j^'Hi-^  Blaenau  Ffestiniog 
in  V2-V*  br.  (fares  2s.  3d.,  is.  2d.,  Is.  O'/'id.).  —  Coach  from  Llandudno 
to  Bettws,  see  p.  286.  —  In  summer  a  small  Steameu  plies  from  Deiiianwv 
(p.  288)  to  Trefriw  (p.  312)  in  IV2-2  hrs.  (fares  Is.  Qd.,  Is.),  but  the  scenery 
up  to  this  point  is  fairly  well  seen  from  the  railway.  —  Pedestrians  will 
find  the  walk  along  either  side  of  the  river  (16-17  M.)  repay  them;  best 
views  from  the  W.  side. 

From  Llandudno  to  (3  M.)  Llandudno  Junction,  see  p.  285. 
Carriages  are  generally  changed  here.    The  line  follows  the  pretty 


312     Route  il.  LLANRWST.  From  Llandudno 

winding  Vale  of  Conway.  Beyond  (41/2  M.)  Qlan  Conway  we  have  a 
view  of  the  Carnarvon  Mis.  to  the  right,  including  Carnedd  Llewelyn, 
Foel  Fras,  and  the  rounded  Moel  Eilio  (in  front).  From  (8^/4  M.) 
Tal-y-Cafn,  walkers  may  pay  a  visit  to  the  British  earthworks  at 
Pen-y-Oaer  and  the  waterfalls  of  Dolgarrog  (see  Map),  crossing  the 
river  by  the  ferry  (id.)  and  rejoining  the  railway  at  Llanrwst  (in 
all,  31/2-^  hrs.).  The  ascent  of  Carnedd  Llewelyn  (p.  292)  from  Tal- 
y-Cafn  takes  ahout  4  hrs.  —  About  1  M.  beyond  Tal-y-Cafn  the 
church  of  Caerhun,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Conovium,  is  seen  be- 
yond the  river;  farther  on,  Pen-y-Oaer  and  the  falls  of  Porthlwyd 
and  Dolgarrog  are  visible.  The  small  village  of  Trefriw  ('Trevroo'; 
Bellevue  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  D.  4s.),  with  golf-links,  where  the 
steamer  stops,  also  lies  on  the  right  bank,  about  1  M.  from  Llanrwst. 
Its  chalybeate  springs  are  about  1^2  M".  to  the  N.  In  summer  an  om- 
nibus for  Trefriw  meets  the  trains  at  Llanrwst. 

14  M.  Llanrwst  (Victoria,  on  the  river;  Eagles;  Queens),  a 
small  town  with  2500inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated,  V2M.  from 
the  station,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Conway,  which  is  here  crossed 
by  a  bridge  ascribed  to  the  Welsh  architect  Inigo  Jones.  The  church 
contains  the  burial-chapel  of  the  Gwydir  family ,  a  finely  carved 
rood-loft,  and  the  stone  coffin  of  Llewelyn  ap  Jorwerth. 

About  1/2  M.  from  Llanrwst,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Conway,  is 
Owydir  Castle,  long  the  seat  of  the  Wynnes,  but  now  the  property  of  Earl 
Carrington;  the  modern  mansion  contains  some  interesting  tapestry  and 
beautiful  oak-carvings  (visitors  admitted). 

The  environs  of  Llanrwst  are  very  picturesque;  and  pleasant  walks 
may  be  taken  to  (2  M.)  the  old  church  of  Llanrhychwyn  ('Thlanry- 
chooin') ,  to  Trefriw  and  (4  M.)  Llyn  Crafnant  (thence  to  Capel  Curig 
3  M.),  and  to  Bettws-y-Coed  via  Llyvry-Parc  (6  M.;  comp.  Map). 

The  scenery  between  Llanrwst  and  Bettws  is  the  best  on  the 
line.  To  the  right  the  Falcon  Rock  rises  above  the  Gwydir  woods. 
The  train  crosses  the  Conway  and  then  the  Llugwy.  To  the  right  is 
the  Llugwy  valley,  with  Moel  Siabod  in  the  background. 

18  M.  BettWS-y-Coed.  —Hotels.  *Rotal  Oak,  near  the  station  (sign 
by  David  Cox,  now  kept  indoors),  E,.  &  A.  4s.  Qd.,  D.  45.  6c?.;  'Waterloo, 
Vs  M.  to   the   S. ;    GwTDiR  Arms;    Glan  Aber;    Temperance.  —  Lodgings. 

Coaches  run  in  summer  to  Capel  CuiHg  (b^/^M.-,  fare  25.  Qd.),  Llonberis 
(16  M.;  5s.,  return  7s.  6f7.j,  Bangor  (20^/2  M.;  {iltq  6s.),  Beddgelert  [iV/i'M..-, 
5s.,  return  Is.Gd.),  Port  Madoc  (25V2  M. ;  7s.);  d^nd.  Llandudno  (seep.  286); 
etc.    Brakes  also  run  to  the  Swallow  Falls,  Fairy  Glen,  and  other  points. 

Fishing.  There  is  good  fishing  within  easy  reach  of  Bettws  in  the 
Conway,  Lledr,  Llugwy,  etc.  (particulars  at  the  hotels). 

5ei^u's-j/-Coed  (pron.  Bettoosycoed),  or  the  Chapel  in  the  Wood, 
is  charmingly  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Conway  Ki\&i\ie  Llugwy , 
in  a  basin  surrounded  with  luxuriantly-wooded  cliffs  and  hills,  and 
is  perhaps  the  most  popular  resort  in  Wales  for  artists,  anglers,  and 
tourists.  The  Llugwy  is  crossed  opposite  the  village  by  the  Pont- 
y-Pair,  a  romantic  structure  of  the  15th  cent.,  below  which  the 
stream  runs  in  a  most  picturesquely  broken  course,  while  about  2/4 M. 
to  the  S.  is  the  Waterloo  Bridge,  crossing  the  Conway.  Near  the 
railway-station  is  the  old  Church,  shaded  with  yew-trees  and  now 


'V.iineTJ.De'ocS  Oeo^^  Ist.jo'  Leiy-ii 


Blaeium  Vfc^ai 

I:l91.-t00   (  Tki-ee  nviles  to  aii  iivdi)'' 

^-^—-T         "i—  ^ ?    SUitute  Mile 

' -i  ?  I  ^  ?  Kilonietres 


to  Ffestiniog.  BETTWS-Y-COED.  4 L  Route.     313 

used  for  interments  only.  Bettws  is  within  8  M.  of  the  W.  base  of 
Snowdon  ,  and  only  4  M.  from  Moel  Siabod  ,  but  no  mountain  is 
visible  from  its  somewhat  confined  situation. 

The  Environs  of  Bettws  are  full  of  interest  for  walkers.  A  good 
general  view  is  obtained  from  Llyn  Elsi  or  the  hill  above  Capel  Garmon. 
To  reach  the  former,  which  lies  about  P/i  M.  to  the  S.W.,  we  ascend  to 
the  left  by  a  path  behind  the  new  church.  At  a  direction-stone  we  keep 
to  the  right.  Beyond  a  small  farm  the  path  leads  across  the  moorland 
plateau  to  the  S.,  in  the  direction  of  the  valley  of  the  Lledr,  and  turns  to 
the  right  at  a  cairn,  soon  reaching  the  lonely  little  tarn  of  Llyn  Elsi. 
The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  the  View  hence  is  the  beautifully-formed 
Moel  Siabod  {'■Sh&hoi' :,  2865  ft.).  Behind  Moel  Siabod  rises  Snowdon-,  and 
the  Glyders,  Carnedd  Dafydd,  and  Carnedd  Llewelyn  are  also  well  seen. 

The  road  to  Capel  Garmon,  a  small  village  2  31.  to  the  S.E.,  crosses 
Waterloo  Bridge  (p.  312)  and  turns  to  the  left.  If  the  view  alone  is 
the  object,  it  is  enough  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  Gallt-y-Foel  (800  ft.),  the 
hill  which  here  rises  to  the  left  (ascent  in  ^|^  hr.  from  Eettws);  but  a 
pleasant  round  may  be  made  by  going  on  to  Capel  Garmon  and  the  Crom- 
lech^ 1  M.  beyond  it,  and  then  returning  to  (3V2  M.)  Bettws  by  the  highroad. 

The  following  Round  of  about  18  M.  embraces  most  of  the  other 
favourite  points  near  Bettws.  Those  who  prefer  driving  will  find  public 
conveyances  plying  to  the  Swallow  Falls,  the  Fairy  Glen,  and  the  Conway 
Falls.  The  walk  across  the  hill  from  Pont-y-Gyfyng  to  Dolwyddelan, 
though  not  more  than  4  M.  in  direct  length,  is  rather  rough  and  fatiguing 
(especially  after  rain)  and  takes  IV2-2  hrs. 

We  leave  the  village  by  the  main  Holyhead  road,  which  runs  to  the 
W.  from  Pont-y-Pair.  After  3/4  M.  we  reach  a  small  gate  on  the  right, 
which  leads  to  the  so-called  Miner  s  Bridge.,  a  kind  of  ladder  crossing 
the  picturesque  little  Llugwy.  We  then  return  to  the  road,  and  II/4  M. 
farther  on  reach  the  Swallow  Falls  Hotel.,  opposite  which  is  a  gate  leading 
to  the  'Swallow  Falls,  or  Rhaiadr-y-Wennol  (probably  corrupted  from 
'Rhaiadr  EwynawF  ,  i.  e.  the  foaming  cataract).  These  picturesque  falls 
are  three  in  number,  and  after  rain  are  very  fine.  Visitors  should  follow  the 
path  to  the  foot  of  the  middle  fall  and  to  the  head  of  the  uppermost  fall. 

Beyond  the  Swallow  Falls  the  road  bends  a  little  to  the  left,  still 
skirling  the  Llugwy,  the  placid  and  glassy  surface  of  which  above  the 
falls  affords  a  pleasing  contrast  to  its  broken  and  chafing  course  below. 
To  the  left  we  have  a  line  view  of  Moel  Siabod,  with  Snowdon  to  the 
right  in  the  distance.  We  cross  the  Llugwy,  ^ji  M.  above  the  falls,  by 
the  Ty  Hull  Bridge ,  which  is  said  to  derive  its  name  ('ugly  cottage") 
from  the  primitive  specimen  of  domestic  architecture  adjoining  it.  After 
11/4  31.  more,  where  the  valley  narrows  and  turns  to  the  right,  we  reach 
another  bridge,  affording  a  view  (to  the  left)  of  the  Pont-y-Gyfyng .,  a 
picturesque  bridge  of  one  arch,  below  which  the  river  forms  a  series  of 
cascades.  A  few  hundred  yards  farther  on  we  pass  the  small  Tyn-y-Coed 
Hotel  and  in  about  3min.  more  reach  the  Tan-y-Bwlch  Hotel  (well  spoken  of). 

|Moel  Siabod  (2865  ft. ;  *View)  may  be  ascended  from  this  point  in 
I'A'i^A  br.  We  cross  the  river  by  the  wooden  bridge  opposite  the  hotel, 
pass  to  the  right  through  a  plantation,  cross  a  wall,  and  turn  to  the  left. 
We  soon  reach  the  open  hillside,  where  our  course  is  plain.] 

We  should  follow  the  road  for  a  few  hundred  yards  beyond  the  Tan- 
y-Bwlch  hotel,  in  order  to  obtain  one  of  the  best  views  of  Snowdon.,  which 
rises  before  us  in  its  full  extent.  The  four  peaks,  named  from  left  to 
right,  are  Lliwedd,  Y  Wyddfa  (the  summit),  Crib  Goch  (in  front),  and  Crib- 
y-Dysgyl.    About  1  M.  beyond  Tan-y-Bwlch  is  Capel  Curig  (p.  321). 

After  our  sight  of  Snowdon,  however,  we  retrace  our  steps  to  the 
Pont-y-Gyfyng.,  cross  it,  and  where  the  cart-track  forks  keep  to  the  left, 
passing  almost  immediately  afterwards  a  little  church.  At  a  school  a 
little  way  farther  on,  we  ascend  to  the  right,  and  soon  after,  where 
the  path  again  forks,  near  a  cottage  on  the  hillside,  keep  to  the 
left.   The  track  here  is  very  rough  and  stony.   In  a  few  min.  more  (20-25 


314     Route  41.  FAIRY  GLEN.  From  Llandudno 

min.  from  Pont-y-Gyfyng)  we  pass  througli  a  gate  and  10  min.  later 
reach  the  top  of  the  ridge,  where  the  mountains  on  the  other  side  come 
into  sight.  The  path  at  the  top,  and  in  descending,  is  often  very  ill- 
defined,  but  by  following  the  general  direction  of  the  water-course  we 
cannot  go  far  astray.  Another  gate  is  passed  soon  after  we  begin  the 
descent,  and  in  about  10  min.  a  ruined  hut  comes  in  sight,  which  serves 
as  our  next  landmark.  We  keep  to  the  left  of  the  bed  of  the  stream 
(generally  dry).  In  10  min.  more  we  cross  a  stream  by  a  slab-bridge  and 
ascend  straight  to  the  above-mentioned  hut.  Beyond  the  hut  we  still  fol- 
low the  water-course,  and  in  1/2  hr.  cross  two  streams.  After  the  second 
of  those  we  keep  to  the  left,  pass  through  (10  min.)  a  gate,  and  in  5  min, 
more  reach  Dolwyddelan  (p.  315),  on  the  highroad  and  railway  from 
Bettws  to  Ffestiniog.  The  nearest  inn  is  Elen's  Castle,  a  few  yards  to  the 
right.  The  station  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  beyond  the  bridge. 

For  Bettws  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  road  down  the  pretty 
"Valley  of  the  Lledr^  with  its  varied  colouring  and  picturesquely  broken 
stream.  1^/4  M.  Pont-y-Pant  (Hotel),  at  the  prettiest  part  of  the  valley. 
After  11/2  M.  more  Ave  pass  under  a  railway-bridge.  The  track  to  the  left 
leads  straight^to  (2V2  M.)  Bettws,  but  "we  follow  the  road  and  reach 
(IV4  M.)  another  bridge,  which  we  leave  to  the  right.  About  1/2  M. 
farther  on  is  yet  another  bridge,  which  we  cross.  The  rough  lane  to  the 
right  (stile)  leads  to  the  Fairy  Glen,  which  is  entered  by  (I/4  M.)  a  small 
gate  on  the  right  (adm.  2d.).  [The  key  of  the  glen  is  kept  at  a  cottage 
on  the  left  a  little  way  up  the  lane,  indicated  by  a  notice-board;  but  in 
summer  the  custodian  is  generally  to  be  found  in  the  glen  itself.) 

The  *Fairy  Glen  is  a  romantic  little  dell,  with  a  charming  combin- 
ation of  waterfall,  rock,  and  wood.  There  is  no  path  along  the  stream, 
and  we  have  to  return  to  the  gate  by  which  we  quitted  the  lane.  Here 
we  turn  to  the  right  and  soon  cross  another  stile.  Just  before  we  reach 
the  main  Corwen  road  (view  of  Moel  Siabod),  a  gate  on  the  right  (adm. 
2d.)  admits  to  the  path  descending  to  the  'Conway  Falls,  50  ft.   high. 

We  now  return  to  the  gate,  enter  the  main  road,  follow  it  for 
150-200  yds.  to  the  right,  then  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  bridge  over 
the  Conway,  and  follow  the  Penmachno  road  to  (V2  M.)  the  Pant  Bridge. 
—  We  now  descend  by  a  cart-track  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Machno,  and 
soon  reach  Pandy  Mill.,  a  favourite  'bit'  with  artists.  The  '  Machno  Falls 
are  approached  through  the  mill-garden  (gratuity).  Just  below  the  falls 
the  Machno  joins  the  Conway,  and  our  path  (a  stony  cart-track)  descends 
near  the  latter  stream  to  a  row  of  cottages.  Beyond  these,  where  the 
track  forks,  we  keep  to  the  right,  and  soon  reach  the  Bettws  and  Dol- 
wyddelan road  at  the  bridge  before  the  one  we  crossed  (comp.  above), 
which  is  about  I1/2  M.  from  Bettws.  When  we  again  reach  the  bridge 
which  we  crossed  on  our  way  to  the  Fairy  Glen  (see  above)  we  may 
either  cross  it  and  follow  the  road  to  the  left,  or  we  may  follow  the  cart- 
track  on  the  other  bank  and  cross  by  Pont-y-Pair. 

From  Bettws-t-Coed  to  Bangor,  2O1/2  M.,  coach  in  4  hrs.  (fare  6s.). 
This  'Drive  affords  a  great  variety  of  scenery.  —  From  Bettws  to  (5V2  M.) 
Capel  Curig.,  see  p.  313.  (Ascent  of  Snowdon,  see  p.  325;  drive  through 
the  vale  of  Llanberis,  see  pp.  320,  321.)  The  Bangor  road  turns  to 
the  N.  and  ascends  through  the  bleak  Llugwy  valley.  The  three-peaked 
'Try fan  (3010  ft.)  soon  comes  into  view  on  the  left:  on  the  central  peak 
are  the  'Shepherd  and  his  Wife",  two  upright  rocks  resembling  human 
figures  (ascent,  by  the  W.  side,  in  1-1 V2  hr.,  recommended  to  good  climb- 
ers). We  pass  the  highest  part  of  the  road  about  9  31.  from  Bettws,  shortly 
before  reaching  Z-?e/»  Ogwen.,  a  mountain-lake  IM.  long.  The  coach  stops 
for  about  1/2  hr.  at  the  small  Temperance  Inn  at  the  W.  end  of  Llyn 
( )gwen,  and  this  affords  time  for  a  flying  visit  to  the  gloomy  and  romantic 
little  ''Llyn  Idwal.,  which  lies  about  V*  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  road  and  takes 
its  name  from  a  Welsh  prince  said  to  have  been  drowned  here  by  his  foster- 
father.  High  up  on  the  rocks  on  its  W.  side  is  a  curious  cleft  known 
as  the  Twll  Du  ('black  cleft"),  or  the  'Devil's  Kitchen",  which  extends  back 
for  about  500  ft.  and  is  200-300  ft.  deep,  while  it  is  only  about  6  ft.  wide. 
After  heavy  rain  the  stream   descends  from  the  cleft  in  a  fine  cataract. 


to  Ffestiniog.  DOLWYDDELAN.  41.  Route.     315 

The  waters  of  Llyn  Ogvven  are  discharged  at  its  W.  end  in  a  series  of 
cascades  called  the  "Falls  of  Benglog.  These  falls  break  through 
the  rocky  barrier  at  the  head  of  -Nant  Ffrancon  (Vale  of  the  Beavers), 
which,  however,  is  seen  to  much  greater  advantage  by  those  coming  in 
the  opposite  direction.  The  mountain-background  at  the  head  of  the  pass 
(behind  us)  is  formed  by  Y  Glyder  Fawr  (3280  ft.)  and  Y  Glyder  Fach 
(3262  ft.).  The  road  descends  along  the  E.  side  of  the  valley,  skirting 
the  base  of  Carnedd  Dafydd  (p.  292).  Near  the  foot  of  Nant  Ffrancon 
the  Penrhyn  Slate  Quarries  (p.  292)  come  into  view  on  the  left,  and  we 
soon  reach  Bethesda.,  whence  the  route  to  Bangor  is  described  at  p.  291. 
Walkers  may  leave  the  coach  at  Bethesda  and  visit  the  Slate  Quarries, 
as  described  at  p.  292;  the  quarrymen,  however,  stop  work  at  5.30  p.  m. 
Pleasant  excursions  mav  also  be  made  from  Bettws  to  (6  M.)  Llanric.H 
via  Llyn-y-Parc  (comp.  p.  812),  and  to  (6V2  M.)  Pentre  Voelas.  The  fine 
drives  to  Beddgeleri  and  Llanberis,  skirting  respectively  the  E.  and  N. 
base  ofSnowdon,  are  described  at  pp.  323,  318.  For  those  who  start  from 
Bettws  the  ascent  of  Snowdon  begins  at  (IOV2  M.)  Pen-y-Pass  (see  p.  321), 
which  is  passed  by  the  coaches  between  Bettws  and  Llanberis. 

Continuation  of  Railway  Journey.  Beyond  Bettws  tlie  train 
follows  the  Conway  for  about  1  M.  more,  and  then  turns  to  the  right 
into  the  picturesque  *  Valley  of  the  Lledr.  Fine  view  of  Moel  Siabod 
to  the  right.  22^/2  M.  Pont-y-Pant  (Hotel),  see  p.  314.  The  peak 
of  Snowdon  soon  comes  into  sight  on  the  right.  —  24  M.  Dolwyd- 
delan  (Benar  View;  Eleri's  Castle;  Gwydir  Arms,  all  unpretending), 
pronounced  'Dolooithelan' ,  is  a  quarrymen's  village,  at  the  foot  of 
Moel  Siabod.  About  1  M.  farther  up  the  valley  is  Dohcydddan 
Castle ,  the  birthplace  of  Llewelyn  the  Great.  The  old  Roman 
road,  Sam  Helen,  ascends  the  Cwm  Penamnaen ,  to  the  S.  of  the 
station.  The  ascent  of  Moel  Siabod  takes  about  2  hrs. ;  we  leave 
the  valley  almost  opposite  the  castle.  Route  across  the  E.  spur  of 
Moel  Siabod  to  Tan-y-Bwlch  [2  hrs.),  see  p.  313.  —  Passing  Dol- 
wyddelan  Castle  on  the  right,  we  next  reach  (26  M.)  Roman  Bridge, 
the  name  of  which  is  unexplained.  Good  view  of  Snowdon,  to  the 
right.  The  train  then  turns  to  the  left  and  quits  the  Lledr  valley 
by  a  tunnel  more  than  2  M.  long,  emerging  amid  the  slate-quarries 
and  rubbish  heaps  of  Blaenau  Ffestiniog.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  324. 

3OY2  M.  Blaenau  Ffestiniog  (_North  Western  Hotel,  close  to 
the  L.  N.  W.  R.  Station;  Queen's,  near  the  G.  W.  R.  Station),  a 
small  town  of  recent  origin,  occupies  a  fine  situation  at  the  head 
of  the  valley  of  the  Dwyryd  ('Dooyrid'),  surrounded  by  mountains, 
which  are,  however,  greatly  disfigured  by  slate -quarries.  Pop. 
11,000.  The  Palmerston  Quarry  is  the  most  important.  The  work- 
ings here  resemble  mines  more  than  the  open-air  quarries  at 
Penrhyn  (p.  292),  and  a  visit  to  them  is,  therefore,  less  convenient. 

The  terminus  of  the  G.  W.  line  to  Bala  (see  p.  307)  lies  about  V2  M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  L.  N.  W.  Station.  Close  to  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  'Toy 
Railway'  (p.  318),  called  Duffies.  The  Blaenau  Station  of  the  Toy  Rail- 
way is  close  to  the  L.  N.  W.  R.  Station. 

The  tourist  headquarters  are  at  Ffestiniog  Village  ,  which  lies 
31/2  M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  corner  where  the  main  valley  is  joined 
by  the  Cynfael.  The  easiest  way  to  reach  it  is  by  the  G.  W.  R. 
(p.  306).     Walkers  proceed  to  the  left  through  the  town,  pass  the 


316     Route  41.  FFESTINIOG.  From  Llandudno 

termini  of  the  G.  W.  and  Toy  railways ,  and  follow  the  road  down 
the  E.  side  of  the  valley,  generally  near  the  railway. 

Ffestiniog  Village  [*Pengwern  Arms,  R,  &  A.  from  3s.  6d. ;  Abbey 
Arms,  well  spoken  of),  a  small  place  with  a  few  hundred  inhab., 
is  charmingly  situated  on  a  projecting  hill  rising  between  the  val- 
leys of  the  Dwyryd  and  the  Cynfael.  The  best  point  of  view  is 
the  mound  at  the  back  of  the  church ,  reached  by  a  track  to 
the  left  of  the  churchyard-wall.  To  the  left  we  look  down  the 
pretty  vale  of  the  Dwyryd  to  Cardigan  Bay ;  opposite  is  Moelwyn 
(2529  ft. ;  ascended  from  Blaenau  Ffestiniog  in  2  hrs.),  and  to  the 
right  Manod  Mawr  (2171  ft.),  rising  above  Blaenau.  Fair  trout  and 
salmon  fishing  in  the  Dwyryd  and  in  Llyns  Tecwyn  and  Garnedd. 

The  first  steps  of  the  visitor  to  Ffestiniog  are  directed  to  the  pretty  Falls 
of  the  Cynfael.  Opposite  the  Newborough  Arms  Inn,  just  beyond  the 
church,  we  pass  through  the  gate  to  the  left,  cross  the  farmyard,  and 
follow  the  obvious  path  leading  through  the  fields.  After  1/2  M.  a  grassy 
track  descends  on  the  right  to  the  Lower  Fall,  which  is  chiefly  interesting 
for  its  romantic  setting.  We  then  follow  the  path  along  the  N.  bank 
of  the  stream,  which  flows  through  a  narrow  wooded  gorge,  forming  an 
uninterrupted  series  of  rapids  and  cascades.  A  few  yards  above  the  lower 
fall  is  a  singular  rock  known  as  'Hugh  Lloyd's  Pulpit'  from  the  tradition 
that  a  local  sage  and  bard  used  to  preach  from  its  flat  top.  A  little  farther 
on,  the  path  crosses  the  stream  and  continues  to  ascend  on  the  S.  bank. 
One  of  the  best  points  of  view  is  the  so-called  'Goat's  Bridge',  a  slab  of 
rock  spanning  a  narrow  part  of  the  stream.  The  Higher  Fall,  descending 
in  two  leaps,  is  reached  a  little  farther  on.  Many  visitors  turn  here, 
but  the  ravine  is  still  very  picturesque  higher  up,  and  the  stream  forms 
other  little  falls.  The  path  passes  under  a  railway-bridge,  crosses  a  wall, 
traverses  a  plantation  carpeted  with  heather ,  crosses  another  wall ,  and 
reaches  a  farm-road,  which  leads  to  the  left  after  a  few  yards  to  the 
Ffestiniog  and  Trawsfynydd  road.  Pont  Newydd  (p.  290),  IV4  M.  from 
Ffestiniog,  lies  a  few  paces  to  the  left. 

Crossing  Pont  Newydd,  we  may  ascend  the  lane  to  the  right  for  V4  M. 
and  then  descend  by  a  road  to  the  right ,  which  turns  to  the  left  on 
reaching  the  stream  and  leads  along  its  N.  bank.  At  the  (1/2  M.)  fork 
we  ascend  to  the  left,  avoiding  the  descent  to  the  stepping-stones.  In 
13  min.  more  we  pass  Cym  Cynfael,  a  lonely  farm-house,  once  the 
home  of  Hugh  Lloyd  (see  above).  The  road  here  is  a  mere  grassy  track; 
farther  on,  it  becomes  very  stony,  and  ascends  to  the  left  round  a  rocky 
knoll.  At  the  top  we  come  in  sight  of  the  'Ehaiadr  Cwm,  a  graceful  but 
narrow  fall,  where  the  Cynfael  is  precipitated  over  a  lofty  barrier  of  rock. 
Just  above  the  fall  the  track  joins  the  highroad  from  Ffestiniog  to  Bala, 
at  a  point  about  31/4  M.  from  Ffestiniog,  for  which  we  turn  to  the  left. 
A  good  view  of  the  fall  is  obtained  from  the  road  after  we  have  gone  a  little 
way  towards  Ffestiniog.  To  the  right,  about  1/4  M.  from  the  road  and 
not  visible  from  it,  lies  Llyn-y-Morwynion,  or  the  'Lake  of  the  Maidens', 
about  11/4  M.  below  which,  and  also  1,4  M.  from  the  road,  is  a  spot  called 
the  Beddau-Gwyr-Ardudicy,  or  'Graves  of  the  Men  of  Ardudwy'.  Accord- 
ing to  the  legend ,  the  men  of  Ardudwy  had  carried  ofi"  a  niimber  of 
women  from  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  but  were  overtaken  and  slain  here  by 
the  injured  husbands  and  fathers.  The  women,  however,  rather  than 
return  to  their  homes,   drowned  themselves  in  the  Llyn-y-Morwynion. 

The  road  to  (IV4  M.)  Pont  Xewydd  diverges  to  the  left  about  1  M. 
from  the  point  where  we  join  the  Bala  road.  In  descending  we  have  a 
view  of  Moelwyn  and  the  mountains  backing  the  estuary  of  the  Dwyryd. 
The  Bala  road  joins  the   Trawsfynydd  road  at  the  Ffestiniog  station. 

ToMEX-Y-MuR,  Rhaiade  Dd,  and  the  Raven  Fall.  This  excursion 
may  be  begun  at  Maentwrog  Road  Station,  which  is  2  M.  from  Ffestiniog, 
on  the   road  to  Trawsfynydd.     From    the   station   we   follow   the   road   to 


to  Ffestiniog.  MAENTWROG.  41.  Route.     317 

(,1/4  M.)  a  small  school,  where  it  is  joined  by  that  leading  to  Maentwrog 
(see  below).  Here  we  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  a  few  hundred  paces  we 
leave  the  highroad  by  the  second  cart-track  (very  stony)  to  the  left.  This 
passes  under  the  railway;  and  after  about  12  min.,  just  beyond  a  small 
cottage,  we  come  in  sight  of  Tomen-y-Mur  (pron,  'Tommen-y-Meer')  a 
circular  mound  about  30  ft.  high,  on  the  top  of  a  grassy  hill  (reached 
from  the  path  in  10  min.).  It  is  supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  the  Roman 
station  Heriri  Mons,  from  which  the  'Sarn  Helen'  (p.  315)  and  other  Roman 
roads  diverged.  It  commands  an  extensive  sea  and  mountain  view.  We 
now  return  to  the  school-house  and  descend  towards  Maentwrog  for  about 
1/4  M.  "We  then  turn  to  the  left,  opposite  a  private  road  leading  to 
Maentwrog.  After  Y2  M.  the  lane  turns  to  the  right,  opposite  a  gate  ;  '/4  M. 
farther  on,  where  it  forks,  we  ascend  to  the  left.  We  next  reach  an  open 
spot  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  Vale  of  Ffestiniog,  and  soon  pass 
(1/2  M.)  a  cottage  on  the  right,  where  we  begin  the  descent  to  the  lovely 
wooded  glen  of  the  Prysor.  After  3  min.  we  descend  to  the  left  to  a  door 
in  a  wall.  The  path  on  the  other  side  descends  steeply  to  the  track  leading 
along  the  stream.  Ascending  this  to  the  left,  we  soon  come  (8  min.)  in 
sight  of '■  Rhaiadr  Du  (pron.  'Dee'),  or  the  'Black  Fall',  most  romantically 
placed.  To  reach  the  other  fall,  which  is  lower  down,  we  return  by  the 
path  to  (5  min.)  a  wicket-gate  and  bear  to  the  right  to  (3  min.)  an  old 
limekiln.  Here  we  turn  sharply  to  the  left  and  descend  for  about  300  yds., 
when  a  small  path  on  the  right  leads  to  the  various  points  of  view  for 
the  Raven  Fall.  Visitors  should  not  go  too  near  the  brink.  We  now 
return  to  the  limekiln,  and  4-5  min.  beyond  it,  at  a  gate,  rejoin  the  main 
track  from  which  we  diverged  to  visit  Rhaiadr  Du.  Our  route  now 
descends  through  a  charming  wooded  glen  to  (1/2  M.)  the  highroad,  which 
we  follow  to  the  right  to  (3/4  M.)  Maentwrog  (see  below). 

[In  coming  from  Maentwrog  we  follow  the  Harlech  road  for  3/4  M. 
and  leave  it  by  a  red  gate  on  the  left,  just  before  a  bridge.  In  a  few 
paces  more  we  pass  another  gate,  beyond  which  there  is  a  placard  in- 
dicating the  house  of  the  guide  to  the  falls.  The  track  to  the  latter 
leads  straight  on,  up  the  hill,  and  the  guide  may  be  dispensed  with.] 

Maentwrog  (Orapes  Hotelj^  pron.  ^ Mantoorog\  is  a  small  village 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Dwyryd,  at  the  foot  of  a  low  and 
partly  wooded  hill.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  stone  (maen)  of 
St.  Twrog,  a  rude  uninscribed  monument,  4  ft.  high,  at  the  W.  end 
of  the  church.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  is  Tan-y-Bxclch 
(p.  318).  The  mansion  of  Plas  (p.  318)  is  also  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject. The  distance  by  road  from  Maentwrog  to  Ffestiniog  is  3  M. 
The  road  may  be  quitted  at  the  (21/4  M.)  foot  of  the  last  long  hill 
up  to  the  village,  and  the  footpath  through  the  vale  of  the  Cynfael 
followed  (stile  to  the  right,  at  the  bridge). 

The  above  excursions  may  be  accomplished  in  one  day  by  tolerable 
walkers.  Llyn  Morwynion  and  the  Graves  of  the  Men  of  Ardudwy  may 
be  left  out  without  much  loss,  and  Tomen-y-Mur  might  also  be  omitted. 
The  stages  are  as  follows:  From  Ffestiniog  to  the  Cynfael  Falls  and  up 
the  valley  to  Pont  Newydd  I'/o  M.;  from  Pont  Newydd  to  the  Rhaiadr 
Cvvm  IV2  M. ;  back  to  Pont  Newydd  by  the  Bala  road"  21/4  M. ;  from  Pont 
Newydd  to  Maentwrog  Road  ii/4  M. ;  thence  to  Tomen-y-Mur  and  back 
2  M. ;  visit  to  Rhaiadr  Du  and  the  Raven  Fall,  and  down  to  Maentwrog 
4  M.;  from  Maentwrog  to  Ffestiniog  8  M.  This  makes  in  all  15-16  M., 
for  which  6-7  hrs.  should  be  allowed. 

E]xcursions  may  also  be  made  from  Ffestiniog  to  (3  M.)  Tan-y-Bwlch 
and  (16  M.)  Beddgelert  (p.  322),  and  via  (5  M.)  Trawsfynydd  to  the  (5  M.) 
Gate  of  Ardudicy  (p.  299)  or  Pistyll-y-Cain  (p.  304).  The  ascent  of  the 
Manods  (p.  316)  does  not  repay  the  exertion,  but  Moelwyn  (p.  316)  or  Cynicht 
(p.  323;  4  hrs.)  may  be  climbed. 

From  Blaenau  Ffestiniog  to  Port  Madoc  by   the    'Narrow 


318     Route  41.  LLANBERTS.  From  Carnarvon 

Gauge   Railway',    13  M.,   in  1  hr.   (fares  2s.  9d.,  2s.  2d.,  Is.  Sd.- 
return-tickets  4s.  Ad.,  3s.  6d.,  2s.  4d.). 

This  'Toy  Railway",  in  which  the  gauge  is  only  2  ft.  and  the  carriages 
and  locomotives  correspondingly  tiny,  was  originally  a  tram-line  (made  in 
1836)  for  conveying  slate,  and  was  opened  as  a  passenger-line  in  1869.  It 
runs  along  the  N.  side  of  the  Dwyryd  valley,  of  which  it  affords  charm- 
ing views.  The  engineering  skill  shown  in  the  construction  of  the  line 
is  very  great,  and  some  of  the  curves  are  astonishingly  abrupt.  In  approach- 
ing Tan-y-Bwlch  station  we  sometimes  see  the  train  we  here  meet  and 
pass  steaming  along  the  other  side  of  the  ravine  in  a  direction  parallel 
to  our  own.  The  open  first-class  carriages  afford  the  best  views  (to  the 
left  in  descending).  Passengers  should  beware  of  putting  their  heads  out 
of  the  windows,  as  the  train  runs  within  a  hand's-breadth  of  the  walls  of 
the  rocky  cuttings.     The  railway  is  seen  to  greatest  advantage  in  ascending. 

The  train  starts  from  the  terminus  at  Duffivs  (710  ft;  see  p.  315) 
and  almost  immediately  stops  again  at  Blaenau  Ffestiniog.  2^/2  M. 
Tan-y-Grisiau  (630  ft.)  is  the  best  starting-place  for  the  ascent  of 
Moelwyn  (IV2  ^r.).  We  then  pass  through  a  tunnel ,  3/4  ^-  long, 
beyond  which  we  have  a  view  of  the  valley,  with  the  village  of 
Ffestiniog  perched  on  a  hill  on  the  other  side,  and  reach  (4  M.) 
Dduallt.  We  next  thread  another  tunnel,  pass  a  lake  on  the  left, 
and  a  small  waterfall  on  the  right,  and  bend  to  the  right  round  the 
glen  of  Tan-y-Bwlch.  6  M.  Tan-y-Bwlch  (400  ft. ;  *Tan-y-Bwlch 
Hotel,  in  the  valley,  1  M.  below),  the  crossing-station  of  the  line, 
lies  at  the  head  of  the  most  abrupt  curve.  Beyond  Tan-y-Bwlch  we 
see  Maentwrog  (p.  317)  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley  and  the 
mansion  of  Plas  immediately  below  us  (visitors  admitted  to  the 
grounds).  Fine  views  of  the  estuary  of  the  Dwyryd.  10  M.  Penrhyn, 
a  quarrymen's  village.  At  (11  M.)  Mynffordd  Junction  we  cross  the 
Cambrian  railway  (see  p.  298).  We  then  cross  Traeth  Mawr  by  a 
long  embankment  (view  of  Snowdon  to  the  right)  and  reach  (13  M.) 
Port  Madoc  (see  p.  298). 

e.    Prom  Carnarvon  to  Llanberis  and  Bettws-y-Coed. 

Railway  from  Carnarvon  to  (9  M.)  Llanberis  in  1/2  hr.  (fares  Is.  Id., 
iOd.,  dd.).  Coach  from  Llanberis  to  (I0V2  M.)  Bettws-y-Coed  in  23/4-3  hrs. 
(fare  5s.).  Coac]i  from  Carnarvon  round  Snowdon  via  Beddgelert  and  Llan- 
beris, see  p.  295.    The  coaches  run  in  connection  with  the  morning-trains. 

As  the  train  quits  Carnarvon  station  we  see  Twt  Hill  (p.  295) 
to  the  left,  and  after  crossing  the  Seiont  we  obtain  a  good  retro- 
spect of  the  castle  to  the  right.  Our  line  then  diverges  to  the  left 
from  the  line  to  Afon  Wen  (p.  297)  and  ascends  the  wooded  valley 
of  the  Seiont,  crossing  the  stream  several  times.  Beyond  (7  M.)  Cwm- 
y-6lo  we  pass  through  a  tunnel  (view  of  Snowdon  to  the  right)  and 
reach  Llyn  Padarn  (2  M.  long) ,  the  larger  of  the  two  Llanberis 
lakes,  the  beauty  of  which  has  been  spoiled  by  slate-quarries. 

9  M.  Llanberis.  —  Hotels.  Victobia,  a  large  house,  300  yds.  from 
the  station,  with  a  garden,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  D.  4s.,  Padaen  Villa,  these 
two  owned  by  the  Snowdon  Mountain  Tramroad  Co. ;  Dolbadakx,  near 
the  station,  well  spoken  of;  Castle,  Snowdon  Valley,  in  the  village.  — 
Lodgings  in  the  village. 


to  Betttcs-y-Coed.  LLANBERIS.  41.  Route.     319 

Coaches.  To  BeUws-y- Coed  and  to  Canarvon,  see  p.  318;  to  Beddgeleri, 
see  p.  322;  to  Port  Madoc  (p.  298)  7s. 

Carriage  to  Pen-y-Pass  bs.  6d. ,  Pen-y-Gicryd  6«. ,  Capel  Curig  lOs., 
Beddgelert  14«.,  Beitics-y-Coed  16s.,  and  Bawjor  via  Capel  Curig  26». 

Snowdon  Mountain  Tramroad  (see  below) ,  terminus  adjoining  the 
L.N.W.  station. 

Guides   and  Ponies   for  the  ascent  of  Snowdon,  see  p.  325. 

Llanberis^  the  'Cliamonix  of  Wales',  with  about  2000  inhab.,  is 
situated  at  the  head  of  Llyn  Padarn,  at  the  N.W.  base  of  Snow- 
don, and  near  the  foot  of  the  celebrated  Pass  of  Llauberis.  The 
immediate  neighbourhood  is,  however,  becoming  more  and  more 
disfigured  by  huge  slate-quarries.  The  two  Lakes  of  Llanheris  are 
both  surrounded  by  wild  and  barren  hills,  descending  abruptly  to 
the  water's  edge.  Llyn  Peris  (boats  Is.  per  hr. ;  fishing  free  to 
residents  in  the  Victoria  Hotel),  to  the  S.  E.,  11/4  M.  long,  is  the  more 
striking  of  the  two,  but  is  sadly  encroached  upon  by  the  Dinorwic 
Slate  Quarries.  Behind  the  Victoria  Hotel  is  the  picturesque  Dol- 
badarn  Castle^  a  solitary  tower,  whence  there  is  a  good  view  up  the 
pass  of  Llanberis.  —  Llanberis  is  the  starting-point  for  the  easiest 
ascent  of  Snowdon  (see  p.  325). 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Victoria  Hotel  is  the  romantic  waterfall 
of  "Ceunant  Mawr  ('great  chasm').  We  follow  the  lane  diverging  from 
the  road  immediately  opposite  the  approach  to  the  hotel,  turn  to  the  right 
after  800  yds.  (the  Snowdon  route  leading  straight  on),  cross  the  stream, 
and  a  little  farther  on  turn  to  the  left  through  a  little  gate  and  round  the 
back  of  some  cottages.  The  path  then  leads  direct  to  the  falls.  From 
the  village  we  may  also  ascend  past  the  handsome  new  Church  and  join 
the  above  route  at  the  cottages.  The  fall,  60  ft.  high,  makes  a  singular 
bend  in  the  middle;  after  heavy  rain  it  covers  the  whole  face  of  the  rock. 

The  Dinorwic  Slate  Quarries^  rising  tier  over  tier  above  Llyn  Peris, 
are  very  productive  and  scarcely  less  imposing  than  those  of  Penrhyn, 
The  blasting  operations  take  place  during  the  first  few  minutes  of  each 
hour;  notice  is  given  by  a  fog-born,  and  the  paths  near  the  quarry  are 
closed  for  the  time  being. 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  by  the  Mountain  Tramkoad,  43/4  M.,  in  1  hr. 
(fares,  up  3s.  Qd.,  down  2s.  Qd. ;  return-ticket  5s.).  This  mountain-railway, 
built  on  the  Abt  rack-and-pinion  system,  was  begun  in  Dec,  1894.  and 
opened  for  traflic  in  1897;  the  gauge  is  2  ft.  1V2  in-  '*nd  the  steepest 
gradient  is  1  in  5V2.  Soon  after  leaving  the  lower  terminus  the  train 
crosses  the  Afon  Hwch  by  two  viaducts,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
Ceunani  Mawr  (see  above)  to  the  left.  3/^  M,  Ceiinant  Mawr  Station.  1  M. 
Bridge,  with  view  of  the  Ceunant  Bach.  IV2  M.  Station.  The  line  now 
ascends  on  the  slope  of  Llediog.,  parallel  with  the  pony-track  (p.  325)  which 
it  crosses  (2i/4  M.)  shortly  before  reaching  the  (2V4  M.)  third  Station,  near 
the  Refreshment  Hut  (p.  325).  The  view  improves  as  we  ascend.  On  the 
top  of  the  Llechog  ridge  (2520  ft.)  the  line  recrosses  the  bridle-track.  Then 
after  skirting  the  precipice  of  Clogwyn  dur  Arddu,  it  runs  along  the  W. 
slope  of  Crih-y-Ddysgyl,  and  reaches  the  (42/4  M.)  C'2)pt;r  Terminus  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  summit.     A  new  hotel  is  to  be  erected  here. 

From  Llanbekis  to  the  Snowdon  Ranger  (QiKllyn  Lake),  4M.  (I3/4  hr.). 
We  ascend  past  the  Ceunant  Mawr  waterfall  (see  above)  and  follow  the 
cart-track  along  the  right  (W.)  side  of  the  valley.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  cwm  is  seen  the  Snowdon  track.  Beyond  some  cottages  the  cart-track 
narrows  to  a  bridle-path.  Soon  afterwards  it  bends  to  the  right  and  ascends 
through  the  lonely  Maes  Cwm  to  (I-IV4  hr.)  Bwlch-y-Maes-Cwm  (1100  ft.), 
the  head  of  the  pass,  where  a  fine  mountain-view  breaks  on  our  gaze, 
the  most  conspicuous  summit  at  first  being  that  of  V  Oarn.  Snowdon  is  also 
well  seen  in  our  rear,  and  Llyn  Quellyn  or  Cwellyn  comes  into  sight  as  we 


320     Moute  41.        PASS  OF  LLANBERIS.     From  Carnarvon 

descend.  We  pass  through  the  small  red  gate  to  the  left,  and  cross  the 
field  to  (200  yds.)  a  similar  red  gate,  Beyond  this  point  the  path  is  very 
ill-defined,  but  by  bearing  to  the  right  we  soon  strike  the  Snowdon  track 
(p.  327)  and  reach  a  gate  with  miry  ground  on  both  sides  of  it,  whence 
a  zigzag  green  track  descends  to  a  small  farm  just  above  the  road  and 
the  railway.  The  Snowdon  Ranger  {Quellyn  Lake  Stadon;  see  p.  322)  lies  a 
little  way  to  the  left  and  is  reached  in  about  1/2  br.  (or  less)  from  the 
time  we  left  the  top  of  the  pass.  Ascent  of  Snowdon  from  this  point, 
see  p.  327. 

[In  the  reverse  direction  we  cross  the  railway  at  the  level  crossing  a 
little  to  the  N.  of  the  Quellyn  Lake  Station  and  pass  through  the  (5  min.) 
farm-yard.  The  path  at  first  is  scarcely  marked,  but  the  zigzag  green 
track,  ascending  to  (20  min.)  the  gate  with  wet  ground  on  both  sides,  is 
distinctly  visible.  After  passing  through  the  gate  we  diverge  to  the  left 
from  the  well-marked  Snowdon  track  and  ascend  across  the  grassy  slope, 
soon  reaching  the  lower  of  the  above-mentioned  red  gates.  The  ascent 
to  the  top  of  the  pass  from  this  side  takes  about  3/4  hr.] 

The  easy  ascent  oi  Moel  Eilio  (2880  ft.;  *View),  which  rises  to  the  S.  of 
Llanberis,  is  worth  making  if  time  permit. 

Feoji  Llaxberis  to  Bethesda,  8  M.  This  mountain-walk  is  the  short- 
est route  from  Llanberis  to  Xant  Ffrancon  and  Bangor.  We  pass  over 
the  bridge  between  the  lakes  and  then  ascend  to  the  left  (see  note  as  to 
the  blasting,  p.  .319).  Farther  on  we  cross  a  dreary  moor,  with  a  reser- 
voir in  the  middle,  pass  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  small  hills  Drysgol 
Faur  and  Moel-t/-Ci,  and  then  descend  by  St.  Anne's  Chapel  to  Bethesda 
(p.  292).  The  route  however,  is  intricate  and  requires  the  aid  of  a  good 
map  or  guide.  —  With  this  walk  may  be  combined  (comp.  Map)  the  ascent 
of  the  Elidyr  Fawr  (3030  ft.;  21/2  hrs.  from  Llanberis),  which  commands 
a  good  mountain-panorama,  with  Anglesey  and  the  Menai  Strait. 

From  Llanberis  to  Bettw.s-y-Coed.  The  coach  runs  along  the 
W. side  of  LiynPerj>,  passing  a  small  castellated  building  on  the  left, 
descends  to  ('2  M.)  Old  Llanberis  (Vaenol  Arms),  and  enters  the 
*Pass  of  Llanberis,  the  wildest  valley  in  N.  Wales.  The  road  now 
ascends  pretty  steeply,  between  the  towering  precipices  of  Snowdon 
on  the  right  and  Y  Garn  and  the  Glyders  on  the  left.  The  top  of 
Snowdon  is  nowhere  visible  from  the  pass. 

A  fine  mountain-route  (3-4  hrs.)  leads  from  Old  Llanberis  across  the 
range  separating  the  Pa.«s  of  Llanberis  from  Nant  Ffrancon.  We  turn  to 
the  left  a  few  yards  beyond  the  Church.,  which  possesses  an  interesting 
roof  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  follow  a  path  up  the  hill.  From  the  highest 
cottage  we  ascend  steeply  to  the  right  of  a  wall,  and  when  the  wall 
turns  we  keep  to  the  right  by  a  streamlet.  The  path  soon  ends,  but 
our  route  leads  to  the  E.,  across  the  ridge  to  the  S.  of  the  summit 
of  Y  Garn  (3107  ft.).  Fine  view  of  Snowdon  to  the  right.  Beyond  the 
ridge  we  descend  to  Llyn-y-Cwn  ('Lake  of  Dogs')  and  the  head  of  the 
Ticll  Du  or  Devils  Kitchen  (p.  314),  where  we  obtain  a  splendid  =-=View. 
From  Llyn-y-Cwn  it  is  a  climb  of  about  3/4  hr.  (3  hrs.  from  Old  Llanberis^ 
to  the  top  of  Y  Glydei-  Fcncr  (32S0  ft.:  *View  of  Snowdon  and  the  Pass  of 
Llanberis).  To  reach  Llyn  Ogwen  (p.  314)  we  descend  to  the  right  of  the 
Devil's  Kitchen  (caution  necessary  in  misty  weather)  to  Llyn  Idwal. 

As  we  ascend ,  the  valley  rapidly  grows  narrower  and  wilder. 
Good  retrospect  of  the  Llanberis  lakes  and  Dolbadarn  Castle.  To 
the  right  is  the  huge  hollow  of  *Cwm  Glas,  high  up  between  the 
towering  cliffs  of  Crib-Goch  and  Crib-y-Ddysgyl.  Numerous  traces 
of  glacial  action  are  visible  on  the  rocks.  About  11/2  ^^-  from  Old 
Llanberis  we  pass  a  small  foot-bridge  on  the  right,  and  soon  after 
(V4  M.)  reach  a  huge  fallen  boulder  (on   the  left),   erroneously 


to  Bettws-y-Coed.       PEN-Y-GWRYD.  41.  Route.     321 

named  the  Cromlech.  We  then  cross  the  Pont~y-  Gromlech,  and  as- 
cend to  (IY2  ^1^0  Gorphioysfa  or  Pen-y-Pass  (1180  ft.;  Inn),  the 
head  of  the  pass,  commanding  a  fine  view  in  both  directions  (as- 
cent of  Snowdon  from  this  point,  see  p.  326).  About  ^2  ^^• 
beyond  the  inn  the  road  turns  sharply  to  the  left,  and  we  have  a 
charming  view  down  Nant  Gwynant  (p.  323)  to  the  right,  with  Cy- 
nicht  in  the  background.  Moel  Siabod  (p.  313),  not  seen  to  advan- 
tage from  this  side,  is  prominent  in  front.  At  (Y2^10  *Pen-y-Gwryd 
Inn  ('Pen-y-Goorid';  900  ft.),  patronised  by  anglers  and  by  tourists 
making  the  ascent  of  Snowdon  from  this  side  (comp.  p.  326),  the  road 
through  Nant  Gwynant  to  Beddgelert  diverges  to  the  right  (see  p.  323). 
The  ascent  of  Moel  Siabod  (2865  ft.)  from  Pen-y-Gwryd  takes  about 
2  hrs.  (descent  to  Dolvvyddelan,  see  p.  314,  in  I-IV2  hr.).  The  shortest 
ascent  of  V  Glyder  Fawr  (p.  320;  IV2-2  hrs.)  is  also  made  from  Pen- 
y-Gwyrd  or  Gorphwysfa.  The  route,  which  can  scarcely  be  missed,  leads 
straight  up  the  ridge  extending  from  Gorphwysfa  (see  Map). 

Beyond  Pen-y-Gwryd  the  road  descends  the  somewhat  uninter- 
esting Nant-y-Owryd,  with  a  view  of  the  Capel  Curig  lakes  in  the 
distance,  to  (4  M.)  Capel  Curig  ('Kappel  Kerrig";  *Royal;  Bryn- 
tyrch,  plain),  situated  amid  some  of  the  finest  scenery  of  N.  Wales, 
and  much  frequented  by  mountaineers.  It  commands  admirable 
views  of  Snowdon.  Visitors  to  the  Royal  Hotel  are  entitled  to  fish 
in  the  Llyniau  Mymbyr^  two  small  lakes  adjoining  the  village.  The 
new  church  contains  some  fine  mosaics,  designed  by  Clayton  and 
Bell  and  executed  by  Salviati  of  Murano. 

Among  the  ascents  most  frequently  made  from  Capel  Curig ,  after 
Snowdon  (see  p.  326),  are  those  of  Moel  Siabod  (p.  813;  IV2  hr.),  Carnedd 
Da/ydd  (p.  292 ;  2V2-3  hrs.),  Carnedd  Llewelyn  (p.  292 ;  2V2-3  hrs.),  Pen  Llithvig 
(2623  ft.;  11/4  hr.),  and  Creigiau  Gleision  (li/4  br.),  between  Llyns  Cwlyd 
and  Craftiant.  A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  to  Trefriw  (p.  312),  either 
via  (21/2  M.)  Llyn  Cwlyd  (9M.;  3V2-4V2  hrs.),  or  hy  Llyn  Cra/nant  (63/*  M.; 
21/2-3  hrs.),  or  by  Llyn  Geirionydd  (V^  M.;  3-4  hrs.). 

From  Capel  Curig  to  (S'/^M.)  Bettws-y-Coed^  see  p.  313. 

f.    From  Carnarvon  to  the  Snowdon  Ranger,  Rhyd-Ddu, 
and  Beddgelert. 

Railway  to  (I2V2  M.)  Snowdon  Station  in  1-2  hrs.  (fares  2<.  2d.,  is.  8(/., 
Is.  3d.).  Omnibus  from  Snowdon  Station  to  (4  M.)  Beddgelert  in  3/^  hr. 
(fare  Is.).  From  Carnarvon  we  may  also  reach  Beddgelert  via  Llanberis, 
whence  a  coach  runs  via  Pen-y-Gwryd  to  (14^/2  M.)  Beddgelert  in  2V2  hrs. 
(fare  5s.);  comp.  R.  41e. 

From  Carnarvon  to  (3'/4  M.)  Dinas^  see  p.  29T.  We  here  leave 
the  L.  N.  W.  Railway  and  proceed  by  the  narrow-gauge  line  of  the 
Dinas  and  Snowdon  District  Railway,  which  diverges  to  the  left. 
The  line  at  once  begins  to  ascend,  commanding  a  view  to  the  right 
of  the  Rivals  (p.  297)  and  the  Menai  Strait.  From  (5V2  ^^0  Try  fan 
Junction  a  short  branch  diverges  on  the  right  to  (3  M.)  Bryngwyn, 
on  the  slope  of  Motl-y-Tryfan  (fine  view).  The  train  now  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Gwrfai  to  (7  M.)  Waenfawr  and  (8  M.)  Bettws 
Garmon.    The  latter  is  the  station  for  the  picturesque  Nant  MiU^ 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.     4th  Edit.  21 


322     Route  41.  BEDDGELERT. 

of  wliich  we  have  a  view  to  the  left  a  little  farther  on..  To  the  left 
isMoel  Eilio,  and  to  the  right,  in  front,  is  Mynydd Mawr  (2295  ft.), 
with  the  precipitous  Craig  Cwm  Bychan,  at  the  foot  of  Llyn  Quellyn. 
The  train  now  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  lake,  which  is  ahout  1  M. 
long,  while  in  front  we  see  the  summit  of  Snowdon  ('Y  Wyddfa'), 
with  the  lower  peak  of  Yr  Aran  (2264  ft.)  to  the  right. 

IOV4  M.  Quellyn  Lake  Station  (*Snowdon  Ranger  Hotel,  un- 
pretending), on  the  N.  side  of  Llyn  Quellyn,  is  frequented  by 
anglers  (trout  and  char).  This  is  the  starting-point  of  the  'Snowdon 
Hanger'  ascent  of  Snowdon  (p.  327).  The  top  of  Mynydd  Mawr  (see 
above),  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  commands  a  good  view.  From 
Quellyn  Lake  to  (4  M.)  Llanberis ,  see  pp.  320,  319. 

The  train  next  crosses  a  ravine,  with  a  waterfall  to  the  left,  and 
ascends  steadily.     Fine  views.    Moel  Hebog  (p.  324)  rises  in  front. 

121/2  ^I-  Snowdon  Station  [Quellyn  Arms^  a  rustic  inn),  the 
terminus  of  the  railway,  at  the  village  of  i2/iyd-Ddu(pron. 'Ruddthy'), 
is  finely  situated  at  the  foot  of  Snowdon,  which  here  presents  a  very 
imposing  appearance.  Rhyd-Ddu  is  only  31/2  ^^-  from  the  summit 
(ascent,  see  p.  326).  A  road  beginning  opposite  the  inn  ascends 
past  Llyn-y-Dywarchen  to  Bwlch-y-Felin  (750  ft.)  and  then  descends 
between  Mynydd  Mawr  and  Y  Garn  to  (6  M.)  Nantlle  (p.  297). 

Snowdon  Station  is  4  M.  from  Beddgelert  (omn. ,  see  p.  321). 
The  road  runs  near  the  E.  bank  of  Llyn-y-Gader,  and  reaches  the 
highest  point  of  the  route  (600  ft.)  near  (1  M.  from  the  station) 
Pitt's  Head,  a  rock  on  the  right,  supposed  to  resemble  that  states- 
man. We  descend  by  the  glen  of  the  Colwyn,  passing  another  rock 
inscribed  Llam,  Trwsgyll,  commemorating  the  step  ('11am')  made  by 
the  giant  Trwsgyll  from  this  point  to  the  other  side  of  the  stream. 

4  M.  Beddgelert.  —  Hotels.  Royal  Goat  ,  a  few  hundred  yarda 
from  the  village,  on  the  road  to  Port  Madoc,  R.  &  A.  5^.,  table  d'hote 
4s.  6d.  •,  *Saracens  Head,  D.  85.  6(1,  -Trince  Llewelyn,  in  the  village.  — 
Lodgings. 

Coaches  run  from  Beddgelert  to  Port  Madoc  (SM.-,  fare  2s.);  to  Pen-y- 
Gwrid  (8  M.-,  2s.)  KnA  Llanberis  (14V2  M. ;  05.);  and  to  Pen-y-Gwryd,  Capel 
Curig  (12  M.;  4*.),  and  Bettws-y-Coed  (IT1/2  M.^  5s.,  return  7s.  6d.). 

Fishing  may  be  obtained  in  the  Colwyn,  the  Glaslyn.  and  numerous 
lakes  and  tarns  (particulars  at  the  hotels). 

Beddgelert.,  the  'gem  of  Welsh  villages',  is  charmingly  situated 
at  the  junction  of  the  Colwyn  and  Glaslyn.,  near  the  S.  base  of 
Snowdon,  and  is  in  every  respect  one  of  the  best  centres  for  tourists 
in  N.  Wales.  It  is  much  less  shut  in  than  Bettws-y-Coed,  and  is 
surrounded  by  mountains  instead  of  hills ;  its  environs  are  not 
marred  by  slate-quarries  like  those  of  Llanberis  ;  while  its  romantic 
situation  has  more  individuality  than  that  of  Dolgelley.  It  derives 
its  name,  meaning  'Grave  of  Gelert',  from  the  touching  legend  of 
Llewelyn's  hound,  of  which  this  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene. 
The  grave  is  marked  by  a  few  rude  stones  in  a  small  shaded  enclosure 
in  the  second  field  to  the  S.  of  the  village. 


PASS  OF  ABERGLASLYN.     41.  Route.     323 

We  reach  it  either  by  a  footpath  beginning  close  to  the  wooden 
bridge  at  the  confluence  of  the  streams,  or  bypassing  through  the  shrub- 
bery in  front  of  the  Goat  Hotel  and  turning  to  the  right.  Wales,  however, 
does  not  monopolize  this  pathetic  story  any  more  than  Switzerland  does  that 
of  William  Tell;  and  similar  legends  have  been  current  in  Ireland,  France, 
India,  and  Persia.     Beddgelert  is  the  principal  scene  of  Southey's  'Madoc'. 

About  11/2  M-  to  the  S.  of  the  village,  on  the  road  to  Port  Madoc 
(see  below),  is  the  highly  romantic  **Pass  of  Aberglaslyn,  en- 
closed by  sheer  walls  of  rock  800  ft.  high,  which  barely  leave  room 
for  the  road  and  the  little  river  Glaslyn ,  here  crossed  by  the 
Pont  Aberglaslyn,  The  richly-tinted  rocks,  the  fine  sky-line  of  the 
cliffs,  the  clear  sea-green  colour  and  picturesque  brokenness  of  the 
river,  the  grouping  of  the  trees,  and  the  romantic  ivy-draped  bridge 
combine  to  make  this  one  of  the  loveliest  scenes  in  Wales.  The 
best  point  of  view  is  on  the  Port  Madoc  road,  a  little  beyond  the 
bridge.  We  may  return  to  Beddgelert  by  the  footpath  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  Glaslyn  (rough,  and  very  wet  after  rain),  or  along  the 
top  of  the  ridge,  the  Craig-y-Llan,  on  the  same  side  of  the  stream. 

From  Beddgelert  to  Bettws- y- Coed,  17 Y2  ^m  coach,  see 
p.  322.  This  fine  drive,  through  the  picturesque  *Nant  Gwynant, 
completes  the  circuit  of  Snowdon,  joining  the  Llanberis  and  Bettws 
road  at  (8  M.)  Pen-y-Gwryd  (p.  321).  The  road  runs  towards  the 
N.  E.,  at  the  foot  of  Yr  Aran  (p.  327),  and  soon  reaches  (2  M.)  the 
pretty  little  Llyn-y-Dinas.  About  1  M.  farther  on  we  have  a  view 
to  the  left,  up  Cwm-y-Llan  .^  of  the  summit  of  Snowdon  (ascent 
from  this  point,  see  p.  327)  ;  to  the  right,  in  front,  Moel  Siabod 
(p.  313)  is  conspicuous.  We  then  pass  (1  M.)  Llyn  Gioynant  and 
ascend  steeply,  following  the  Gwynant,  to  (4  M.)  Pen-y-Gicryd 
(p.  321).  In  front  are  the  Glyders  (p.  315).  From  Pen-y-Gwryd  to 
(9V2  M.)  Bettws-y-Coed,  see  p.  321. 

From  Beddgelert  to  Port  Madoc,  8  M.,  coach,  see  p.  3'2'2.  This  road 
passes  through  (li/zM.'^  the  beautiful  'Pass  0/  Aberglasli/n  (see  above)  and 
descends  the  expanding  valley  of  the  Glaslyn,  skirting  the  slopes  of  ifoel- 
Ddu.  To  the  left  rise  the  strikingly  formed  Cunicht  (see  below)  and  Moehcim 
(p.  316).  A  tine  retrospect  of  Snowdon  also  gradually  opens  out.  Pedes- 
trians may  save  about  1  M.  by  diverging  to  the  left  at"(4V2  M.)  the  Olaslyn 
Inn  and  following  the  tramway  across  the  marsh.  The  road  trends  to 
the  right  and  soon  passes  under  a  line  range  of  ivy-clad  crags.  In  front 
rises  Moel-y-Gest  (p.  298).    7  M.  Tremadoc,  and  (8  M.)  Port  Madoc,  see  p.  298. 

From  Beddgelert  to  Ffestiniog.  The  new  road  (16  M.)  crosses  the 
Pont  Aberglaslyn  (see  above),  turns  to  the  right,  and  leads  to  the  S.  to 
(9  M.)  Penrhyndeudraeth  (p.  298).  Here  we  turn  to  the  left  and  ascend 
the  valley  of  the  Dwyryd,  passing  (4  M.)  Tan-y-Bwlch  Hotel  (p.  318).  — 
The  old  road  (13  M.),  shorter  and  more  picturesque  than  the  new  one,  but 
very  rough  for  carriages,  diverges  to  the  left  about  1/2  M.  beyond  the 
Brondanw  Arms  Inn,  at  the  old  toll-house  oi  Pen-y-Gyffniau.  It  leads  over 
the  Bwlch-y-Maen  Pass,  and  descends,  passing  below  the  Toy  Railway,  to 
Tan-y-Bwlch.  —  The  best  route  for  walkers  (11  M.)  is  the  mountain-path, 
which  branches  to  the  left  from  the  road,  just  beyond  a  small  stream,  1/4  M. 
past  the  Pont  Aberglaslyn.  We  cross  (IV4  M.)  the  small  vale  of  Nant-y-Mor 
and  QI-2  M.)  the  Cwm  Croesor  (slate-tramway).  The  track  then  runs  along 
the  W.  slopes  of  the  Moelwyns  to  (2«/2  M.)  Tan-y-Bwlch.  —  The  ascent  of 
either  Cynicht  or  Moelwyn  may  be  combined  with  this  route.  The  top  of 
the  fine  conical  'Cynicht  (2265ft.;  pron.  'Cunnicht'  or  'Cnicht"),  which  has 

21* 


324     Route  dl.  SNOWDON.  Situation. 

been  called  the  Welsh  Matterhorn,  is  reached,  by  ascending  the  ridge  on 
the  hither  side  of  Cwm  Croesor  (p  323),  in  about  21/2  hrs.  after  leaving 
Beddgelert.  To  reach  the  top  of  Moelwyn  (2529  ft. ;  p.  316)  we  cross  the 
Cwm  Croesor  and  ascend  to  the  left.  Robust  walkers  may  ascend  both 
summits  (from  Cynicht  to  Moelwyn  1  hr.)  and  descend  to  Ffestiniog  (Tan-y- 
Grisiau  or  Tan-y-Bwlch,  see  p.  318)  in  about  7  hrs.  —  Ffestiniog,  see  p.  316. 

Ascent  of  Moel  Hebog,  1V2-2  hrs.  We  may  ascend  by  a  path  to  the 
N.  of  the  Goat  Hotel,  passing  a  small  farm,  and  turning  to  the  right  be- 
yond a  gap  in  a  wall;  or  we  may  follow  the  Carnarvon  road  for  a  short 
distance,  cross  the  Colwyn  by  a  small  bridge,  bend  to  the  right,  and  as- 
cend by  the  more  northerly  of  the  two  spurs.  The  last  part  of  the  former 
route  is  rather  steep.  The  top  of  Moel  Hebog  (2566  ft.)  affords  a  charm- 
ing bird's-eye  view  of  Beddgelert.  and  the  panorama  includes  Snowdon, 
the  Glyders,  Moel  Siabod,  Cader  Idris,  the  Rivals,  and  Cardigan  Bay. 

Among  other  peaks  which  may  be  ascended  from  Beddgelert  are  those 
of  Yr  Aran  (2800  ft.),  the  S.  spur  of  Snowdon;  Mynydd  Mawr  (2293  ft.: 
p.  322);  and  Y  Garnedd  Goch  (2300  ft.). 

g.    Snowdon. 

Snowdon  (3560  ft.},  Welsh  Eryri,  the  highest  mountain  in  Eng- 
land or  Wales ,  hut  846  ft.  lower  than  Ben  Nevis  in  Scotland 
(p.  503) ,  deserves  its  rank  as  monarch  of  Welsh  mountains  as 
much  for  the  grandeur  of  its  form  as  for  its  height.  It  consists  of  a 
group  of  live  distinct  peaks:  Y  Wyddfa  ('the  conspicuous'),  the 
central  and  highest;  (rib-y-Goch  ('red  peak')  and  Crib-y-Ddysgyl 
('Thusgil')  on  the  N;  Lliwedd  ('triple-crested')  to  the  S.E. ;  and 
Yr  Aran,  to  the  S.  The  best  view  of  the  entire  group  is  that  from 
Capel  Curig  (p.  3'21),  and  the  summit  is,  perhaps,  hest  seen  from 
the  road  near  Port  Madoc  (see  p.  318)  or  from  the  Traeth  Mawr 
embankment  (p.  298).  The  view  from  the  Nantlle  valley  (p.  297) 
is  also  celebrated.  Notwithstanding  its  name,  Snowdon  is  800  ft. 
below  the  snow-line  ,  and  its  summit  is  generally  free  from  snow 
from  April  to  the  end  of  October.  Snowdon ,  like  nearly  all  the 
mountains  of  North  Wales,  belongs  to  the  Cambrian  and  Silurian 
systems,  and  consists  mainly  of  slate,  grit,  and  porphyry,  sur- 
mounted by  felspathic  lava. 

Mountain  Trainroad  from  Llanberis  to  the  summit,  see  p.  319. 

The  five  recognised  pedestrian  ascents  of  Snowdon  are  those  irom  Llan- 
beris (p.  318),  Capel  Curig  {Pen-y-Gwryd  or  Gorphwysfa;  p.  321),  Beddgelert 
{Rhyd-Ddu;  p.  322),  the  Snowdon  Ranger  {Lake  Qmllyn;  p.  322),  and  ^'ant 
Gwynaiit  (p.  323).  None  of  these  is  attended  with  danger,  if  reasonable 
caution  be  observed;  and  travellers  who  have  had  any  experience  in 
mountaineering  may  dispense  with  guides  in  clear  weather.  The  Llanberis 
track  is  particularly  distinct  and  easy,  while  it  is  also  the  least  interesting. 
Those  who  wish  to  see  the  mountain  to  greatest  advantage  are  recom- 
mended to  ascend  from  Capel  Curig,  the  finest  and  steepest  route,  and 
descend  to  Beddgelert  (or  vice  versa).  Travellers  who  begin  and  end  their 
excursion  at  Llanberis  should  descend  to  Pen-y-Pass,  and  return  through 
the  fine  Pass  of  Llanberis.  Experts  will  find  abundant  opportunity  of 
testing  their  skill  and  nerve,  especially  among  the  crags  and  precipices  of 
Crib  Goch  and  Cwm  Glas  (p.  320);  but  great  caution  is  necessary  when 
oif  the  beaten  track,  and  it  should  not  be  forgotten  that  Snowdon  has  a 
long  list  of  victims. 

At  the  top  of  Snowdon  is  the  so-called  Snowdon  Hotel,  consisting  of 
two  small  huts  where  beds  and  refreshments  may  be  obtained.  A  meal 
of  ham   and  eggs,   bread  and  butter,    and  tea  or  coflfee,   is  furnished  at  a 


—MtT^ 


G     L     1       S      h 


C^ 


t\  \     on/  t. 


View.  SNOWDON.  41.  Route.     325 

fixed  charge  of  2s.  \  and  supper,  bed,  and  breakfast  cost  St.  Malt  liquors 
and  spirits  are  also  provided  at  charges  that  cannot  be  called  unreasonable. 
Guides.  The  charges  for  guides  are  as  given  below,  and  travellers 
should  not  encourage  their  habit  of  asking  for  an  additional  douceur, 
unless  they  have  had  unusual  trouble.  The  guides  should  carry  light 
wraps,  etc.  Solitary  travellers  will  generally  find  a  companion  at  the  hotels. 

The  **ViBw  from  the  top  of  Snowdon ,  though  scarcely  so 
wild  and  grand  as  some  of  the  mountain-panoramas  in  Scotland 
(e.g.  the  mountains  of  Skye,  p.  501),  is  very  extensive  and  varied, 
including  the  greater  part  of  North  Wales,  a  wide  expanse  of  sea, 
and  upwards  of  twenty  lakes  and  tarns.  The  view  at  sunrise  or 
sunset  is  particularly  fine  (night -quarters,  see  above);  but  the 
summit  is  often  swathed  in  mist  for  days  at  a  time.  The  mist, 
however,  is  not  always  an  unmixed  evil,  as  some  of  the  finest 
effects  are  produced  by  its  surging  or  dispersal. 

View.  One  of  the  most  striking  features  is  formed  by  the  subsidiary 
ridges  and  huge  hollows  of  Snowdon  itself,  which  fill  up  the  immediate 
foreground:  to  the  N.  and  N.E.  Crib-Goch  and  Crih-y-Ddysgyl,  with  the 
deep  depression  of  Cwm  Glas;  to  the  S.W.  and  S.  Lliwedd  (with  a  mem- 
orial cross  to  a  tourist  killed  in  1888)  and  Yr  Aran.,  with  the  Cicm-y- 
Llan  between  them;  to  the  W.  and  N.W.  the  less  sharply-defined  ridges 
oi  Llechog  and  Clogwyn-du'r-Arddu.  To  the  N.,  beyond  Crib  Goch,  the  view 
extends  to  the  Sea.,  Anglesey.,  the  Menai  Strait  and  Bridges.,  and,  in  the 
background,  the  Isle  of  Man.  The  lower  end  of  Llyn  Padarn  at  Llan- 
beris  is  seen  a  little  to  the  left  of  N.,  and  to  the  right  of  it  rises  the 
pointed  Elidyr-Fawr,  next  to  which  come  the  lofty  Carnedd  Dafydd  and 
Carnedd  Llewelyn.  To  the  right  of  the  latter,  and  somewhat  nearer,  are 
the  Glyders.,  just  behind  which  is  the  pyramidal  Tryfan.  To  the  N.E. 
stretch  the  Clwydian  Hills^  and  due  E.  is  Moel  Siabod .,  with  the  Capel 
Curig  lakes  to  the  left  of  it.  In  the  foreground  are  Glaslyn  and  Llyn 
Llydaw,  with  the  green  Jfant  Gwynant  behind  the  latter.  To  the  right  of 
Siabod,  in  the  background,  are  the  Berwyns,  and  still  farther  to  the  right 
(S.E.)  are  the  distant  summits  of  the  Arenigs  and  the  Arans.  Almost 
in  the  same  direction,  but  much  nearer,  rise  Moelwyn  and  the  finely- 
shaped  Cynicht.  Almost  due  S.  rises  Coder  Idris.,  with  a  bit  oi  Plinlimmon 
behind  it.  To  the  right  is  Cardigan  Bay.,  seen  in  its  full  extent  from  St. 
David's  Head  on  the  S.  to  the  Lleyn  Promontory  on  the  N.  To  the  S.W. 
rises  Moel  ffebog,  to  the  right  of  which,  and  farther  off,  are  the  sharp 
peaks  of  the  Rivals.  The  chief  sheets  of  water  visible  to  the  S.W.  andW. 
are  the  Nantlle  Lakes,  Llyn-y-Gader,  and  Llyn  Quellyn.  To  the  N.  (right) 
of  the  last  rises  Moel  FAlio.,  beyond  which  the  eye  regains  its  starting- 
point.  In  clear  weather  the  w'icklow  Mts.  (70  M.  distant)  are  visible  to  the 
W.  and  the  Cumbrian  Mts  to  the  N.E.;  and  it  is  said  that  even  a  part  of 
Scotland  may  sometimes  be  distinguished.    Comp.  the  Panorama. 

AscBNT  OF  SxowDON  FROM  Llanbbris  (5  M.,  in  1^4-372  hrs. ; 
guide  5s. ;  with  descent  to  Beddgelert,  Snowdon  Ranger,  or  Capel 
Curig  10s.;  pony  5«.).  There  is  a  distinct  and  easy  bridle-path  all 
the  way  to  the  top.  During  the  season  the  ascent  is  sometimes 
made  by  hundreds  of  persons  in  one  day.  Most  walkers  will  easily 
outstrip  the  slow-moving  ponies. 

We  leave  the  highroad  by  the  lane  opposite  the  Victoria  Hotel  (comp. 
p.  319) ,  which  ascends  through  wood  to  the  left  of  the  stream  and  the 
Geunant  Mawr  (p.  319).  Soon  after  quitting  the  wood,  the  path  turns 
sharply  to  the  left  and  ascends  the  ridge.  The  route  beyond  this  can 
hardly  be  mistaken.  On  the  other  side  of  the  valley  we'  see  the  path 
leading  to  the  Snowdon  Ranger  (see  p.  319).  In  front  the  summit  is  seen 
towering  to  the  right  of  Crib-y-Ddysgyl,  while  the  retrospect  includes  the 


326     Route  41.  SNOWDON.  Ascents. 

sea  and  the  island  of  Anglesey.  About  2'/4  M.  from  Llanberia  we  cross 
the  Mountain  Tramroad  (p.  319)  and  V*  M.  farther,  at  a  height  of  about 
1750  ft.,  we  reach  a  Refrethment  Hut^  near  which  is  a  station  on  the  tram- 
road.  About  1/2  M.  farther  is  a  second  Refreshment  Hut,  a  few  hundred 
yards  to  the  right  of  which  is  the  Lli/n  Du'r  Arddn.  Beyond  the  hut  the 
path  turns  to  the  left  and  becomes  steeper  (fine  views).  At  a  height  of 
about  2520  ft.  the  path  again  crosses  the  tramroad.  It  then  ascends  to 
the  right,  and  beyond  a  ruined  hut  and  spring  of  fresh  water  it  is  joined 
on  the  right  by  the  Snowdon  Ranger  track  and  on  the  left  (80  yds.  farther 
on)  by  the  path  from  Pen-y-Gwryd  (p.  321).  A  stiff  climb  of  'A  br.  more 
brings  us  to  the  bufs  at  the  summit.  If  strength  permit,  the  traveller  should 
diverge  to  the  left  before  reaching  the  spring  and  ascend  to  the  top  of  Crib- 
y-Ddysgyl  (p.  324),  for  the  sake  of  the  fine  •'View  into  the  abysses  of  Cwm 
Glas  (p.  820).    View  from  the  summit,  see  p.  325. 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  from  Capel  Curig,  9  M.,  in  S^/2-^^/2  l^rs. 
(from  Pen-y-Gwryd  or  Pen-y-Pass  2-3  hrs.).  Ponies  may  be  ob- 
tained at  Capel  Curig  (10s.)  or  at  (4  M.)  Pen-y-Gwryd  (5s.),  guides 
at  Pen-y-Gwryd  or  Pen-y-Pass  (5s.).  Tourists  may  also  drive  from 
Capel  Curig  to  (5  M.)  Gorphwysfa  [Pen-y-Pass;  1180  ft.),  where 
the  actual  ascent  begins  (see  p.  321). 

The  track  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  road  a  few  yards  on  this  side 
of  the  Pen-y-Pass  Inn,  and  ascends  gradually  round  an  offshoot  of  Crib 
Goch.  After  about  1  M.  we  pass  the  tiny  Llyn  Teyrn  on  the  left,  with 
some  deserted  cottages,  and  1/2  M.  farther  on  reach  Llyn  Llydaw  (1420  ft.), 
a  fine  sheet  of  water,  upwards  of  1  M.  long,  overhung  by  black  and  rugged 
cliffs.  Our  route  crosses  the  lake  by  stepping-stones  near  its  E.  end  (often 
under  water  in  wet  weather)  and  then  runs  to  the  left  along  the  N.  bank. 
[A  footpath,  diverging  from  the  pony-track  not  far  from  the  road,  ascends 
rapidly  at  a  higher  level,  under  the  peaks  of  Crib  Goch  and  Crib-y- 
Ddysgyl,  rejoining  the  pony-track  at  the  upper  part  of  the  zigzag  men- 
tioned below.]  In  about  10  min.  the  track  turns  to  the  right  and  ascends 
through  the  Cwm  Dyli  (splendid  view  of  Y  Wyddfa  in  front)  to  the  small 
tarn  oi'Glaslyn  (1975  ft.),  lying  at  the  foot  of  a  precipice  descending  sheer 
from  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  From  Glaslyn  we  ascend  by  a  rough 
zigzag  path,  and  after  a  stiff  climb  of  V2-V4  ^r.  join  the  Llanberis  route 
at  the  top  of  the  ridge  (see  above).    Hence  to  the  top  V*  br. 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  from  Beddgelert,  6^2  M.  ,  in  3-4  hrs. ; 
guide  7s.  6d.,  pony  10s.;  from  Snowdon  Station  (Rhyd-Bdu), 
31/2  M.,  in  lY2-2hrs.  (guide  5s.).  These  two  routes  unite  about 
3/4  M.  from  the  highroad,  and  the  best  plan  for  visitors  at  Bed- 
dgelert is  to  drive  to  Snowdon  Station  (omn.  daily)  and  begin  the 
ascent  there.  The  distant  views  of  sea  and  lake  and  mountain  are 
very  fine. 

From  Beddgelert  (p.  322)  we  follow  the  Carnarvon  road  to  a  point  a 
few  yards  short  of  (2^/4  M.)  PitVs  Head  (p.  322),  where  we  ascend  to  the 
right  past  a  farm-house  (Ffridd-Uchaf)  and  across  a  grassy  slope  with  a 
hollow  to  the  right.  —  From  Snowdon  Station  (p.  322)  we  start  from  the 
road  crossing  the  railway  a  little  to  the  N,  of  the  station,  and  follow  a 
cart-track  leading  to  a  slate-quarry  until  it  joins  the  (3/4  M.)  Beddgelert 
route,  where  we  ascend  to  the  left.  —  From  the  point  of  junction  the 
path,  which  is  rather  ill-defined  at  places,  bends  slightly  to  the  right, 
crosses  some  rough  ground,  and  passes  through  a  wall  near  a  sheepfold. 
We  then  go  straight  across  the  field  and  soon  pass  a  small  cairn,  mark- 
ing the  spot  where  a  tourist  died  from  exhaustion  in  the  snow  in  1859. 
Fine  view  of  Lake  Quellyn,  Moel  Hebog,  Mynydd  Mawr,  the  sea,  Car- 
narvon, and  Anglesey.  A  few  yards  farther  on,  the  path  leads  through 
a  wall,  near  a  spring,  bends  round,  and  passes  again  through  the  wall. 
We  are  now  on  the  shoulder  of  Llechoff,  from  which  we  have  a  fine  view 


Panorama   from   the  Top    of    Snowdo 


Ascents.  SXOWDON.  41.  Route.     327 

into  Ctcm  V  Clogwyn  (to  the  left),  with  its  four  araall  tarns.  The  Nantlle 
lakes  (p.  297)  are  in  sight  to  the  W.,  between  Mynydd  Mawr  and  Y  Gam, 
while  the  summit  of  Snowdon  rises  beyond  the  cwni.  The  path  along 
the  shoulders  is  well  marked  (fine  views).  Farther  on,  it  bends  to  the  left 
and  ascends  to  the  narrow  ridge  of  ''Bwlch-y-Moen,  from  which  the  cliffs 
descend  almost  perpendicularly  on  either  side;  the  fine  hollow  to  the  right 
is  the  Cwm-y-Llan.  Persons  subject  to  giddiness  may  find  this  part  of  the 
ascent  a  little  trying,  but  the  path  is  quite  safe  and  is  constantly  tra- 
versed by  ponies.     A   short  but  stiff  climb  now  brings  us  to  the  top. 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  from  Beddgelert  via  Nant  Gwyxant, 
7  M.,  in  4  hrs. ;  guide  Is.  6d.,  pony  7a.  ^d.  This  interesting  and 
picturesque  route  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Bettws-y-Coed  road 
(p.  323),  just  beyond  (3  M.)  Nant  Gwynant  Methodist  Chapel. 
Though  the  final  ascent  is  rough  and  steep  it  is  practicable  for  ponies 
all  the  way. 

The  route  where  it  quits  the  main  road  is  a  cart-track  to  the  quarries. 
Leaving  Sir  Edward  Watkin's  iron  chalet  on  the  left,  we  pass  a  cottage, 
and  beyond  a  mineral  tramway  follow  the  stream  up  the  ravine  of  Cicm- 
y-Llan  (pretty  waterfalls)  to  an  abandoned  copper-mine  and  (3/4  hr.  from 
the  chapel)  the  house  of  the  manager  of  the  slate-quarries.  A  few  min. 
farther  on,  a  stone  marks  the  spot  whence  Mr.  Gladstone  addressed  a 
political  mass-meeting  in  Sept.,  1892.  'Sir  Edward  Watkin's  new  path' 
begins  at  the  slate-quarries  and  ascends  (in  the  W.  side  of  Lliwedd  to  the 
Bwlch-y-Sciethau,  the  depression  between  Lliwedd  and  the  summit,  with  a 
line  view  of  the  summit  in  front  and  of  Yr  Aran  (see  below)  behind. 
A  rough  footpath  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  pony-track,  which  now 
makes  a  wide  curve  to  the  right,  is  a  short-cut  for  pedestrians.  The  steep 
final  climb  now  begins.  At  about  three-quarters  of  the  way  up  this  ascent 
we  pass  between  two  telephone-poles,  and  about  5  min.  below  the  summit 
we  join  the  path  from  Llanberis  (p   325). 

Ascent  of  Snowdon  from  the  Snowdon  Ranger  (Quellyn 
Lake  Station,  see  p.  322),  4  M.,  in  IV2-2V4  hrs.;  guide  7s.  6c?., 
pony  7s.  Gd. 

From  the  Snowdon  Ranger  Inn  to  (20-25  min.)  (he  point  where  the 
route  to  Llanberis  diverges  to  the  left ,  see  p.  319.  The  Snowdon  path 
leads  straight  on,  and  though  it  is  sometimes  indistinct,  the  general 
line  towards  the  summit  can  scarcely  be  missed.  By  keeping  well  up  the 
hill  we  avoid  the  marshy  ground  to  the  west.  In  about  1  hr.  from  the 
start  we  pass  Lli/n  Ffynnon-y-Giras  on  the  right  and  begin  the  steep  part 
of  the  ascent,  which  /ig/.ags  up  the  shoulder  of  Clogtcyn  du^r-Arddu,  with 
the  hollow  of  Ctcm  Cloguyn  to  the  right.  Farther  up,  the  path  becomes 
very  stony,  and  by  diverging  a  few  yards  to  the  left  we  can  look  down 
upon  the  tiny  Llyn  Du^r  Arddu  (p.  326).  The  views  from  the  latter  part 
of  the  route,  which  joins  the  Llanberis  track  1/4  hr.  from  the  sununit, 
are  very  fine-  Either  this  route  or  that  from  Snowdon  Station  is  recom- 
mended as  a  descent  for  those  who  wish  to  reach  Carnarvon. 

Any  of  the  above-described  routes  may  he  chosen  for  descending,  and 
the  directions  given  for  the  ascent  w-ill  be  found  available  for  the  de- 
scent. A  good  alternative  descent  to  Beddgelert  is  the  following.  At  the 
lower  end  of  the  Bwlch-y-Maen  (see  above),  instead  of  turning  to  the 
right  along  the  Llechog  shoulder,  we  keep  to  the  left  in  the  direction  of 
the  summit  of  Tr  Ara7i  (2450  ft.),  the  S.  outpost  of  Snowdon.  From  the 
Bwlch-Cwm-y-LIan  we  may  now  descend  through  the  Cwm-y-Llan  (see  above), 
pas.sing  some  mines,  to  the  road  through  Nant  Gwynant  (p.  323),  which 
we  reach  '2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Llyn  Gwynant.  (To  Pen-y-Gwryd,  see  p.  323  ) 
Or  we  may  proceed  to  the  top  of  Yr  Aran  and  descend  on  the  other  side 
direct  to  Beddgelert  (p.  322). 


328 

42.  From  Chester  to  Birkenhead  and  Liverpool. 

I6V2  M.  Railway  (joint  L.  N.  W.  and  G.  W.  line)  in  s/i-l  hr.,  includ- 
ing the  steam-ferry  across  the  Mersey  (fares  2s.  Id.,  is.  8d.,  1«.  4d.). 

The  line  traverses  the  Wirral  Peninsula  between  the  estuaries 
of  the  Dee  and  the  Mersey,  commanding  fine  views  of  the  latter. 
From  (8  M.)  Hooton  branch-lines  diverge  on  the  one  side  to  Park- 
gate  and  West  Kirby  (a  sea-bathing  resort  on  the  Dee),  and  on  the 
other  to  Helsby  (for  Warrington  and  Manchester).  — 91/2  M.  Brom- 
borough.  A  little  to  the  N.  is  Eastham  Ferry  (Ferry  Hotel),  whence 
steamers  ply  on  the  Mersey  to  Liverpool.  The  works  of  the  Man- 
chester Ship  Canal  (p.  344),  which  enters  the  Mersey  here,  include 
three  large  locks,  600,  450,  and  150  ft.  long.  The  outer  gates  weigh 
nearly  300  tons  apiece.  —  IIV2  M-  Spital,  so  named  from  an  old 
hospital  for  lepers.  To  the  right  lies  Port  Sunlight,  an  attractive 
model  village,  built  by  Messrs.  Lever  for  the  workpeople  in  their 
soap  -  factory.  13  M.  Bebington,  with  a  church  of  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  The  suburbs  of  Liverpool  now  come  into  sight  beyond 
the  Mersey.  —  14  M.  Rock  Ferry,  with  frequent  steamers  to  Liver- 
pool, is  the  junction  for  the  Mersey  Tunnel  Railway  (p.  336).  — 
Farther  on,  the  train  enters  the  spacious  Joint  Station  at  Birkenhead. 

151/2  M.  Birkenhead  (Queen's;  Woodside),  a  busy  seaport  of 
modern  origin,  with  99,184  inhab.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mersey, 
which  is  here  2/4  M.  wide,  practically  forms  an  outlying  part  of  Liver- 
pool, and  is  connected  with  it  by  the  Mersey  Tunnel  and  several 
steam-ferries.  At  the  beginning  of  this  century  the  site  of  Bir- 
kenhead was  occupied  by  a  hamlet  with  scarcely  100  inhab.,  which 
had  sprung  up  round  the  old  Priori/  of  Byrkhed ,  founded  in  the 
11th  cent.;  the  ruined  priory-church  of  St.  Mary,  built  in  1150, 
stands  near  the  river,  in  the  graveyard  of  the  modern  church. 

The  'Docks  of  Birkenhead  cover  an  area  of  165  acres ,  the  largest 
being  the  Great  Float,  with  a  surface  of  115  acres  and  a  minimum  depth 
of  2.3  ft.  The  two  landing-stages  are  800  ft.  and  350  ft.  long  respectively, 
the  Quays  have  a  joint  length  of  over  9  M. ,  and  there  are  numerous 
large  ship-building  Wharfs.  The  celebrated  Alabama  was  built  here  in 
1862  by  the  Messrs.  Laird,  whose  huge  ship-building  establishment  con- 
tributes largely  to  the  import  mce  of  the  town.  —  Among  the  most  pro- 
minent buildings  are  the  Toicn  Hall;  the  large  Market;  and  St.  Aidan's 
College,  in  the  suburb  of  Claughton,  for  Anglican  students.  In  the  middle 
of  the  town  is  Hamilton  Square,  surrounded  with  handsome  buildings  and 
adorned  with  a  Statue  of  John  Laird.  On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town 
(tramway)  is  '"Birkenhead  Park  (rail,  stat.,  see  p.  336),  180  acres  in  extent, 
laid  out  by  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  the  designer  of  the  Crystal  Palace  at 
Sydenham,  and  adorned  with  several  small  lakes. 

From  Birkenhead  to  New  Brighton,  Hoylake,  and  ^Yesi  Kirby,  see  p.  336. 

Through-passengers  for  Liverpool  are  carried  by  the  train  down 
to  Woodside  Ferry ,  whence  a  steamer  conveys  them  across  the 
Mersey  to  the  Landing  Stage  (PL  A.  3)  in  Liverpool. 

Liverpool.  —  Railway  Stations,  i.  Lime  Street  Station  (PI.  D,  4),  in 
the  heart  of  the  town,  for  the  main  L.N.  W.  service  to  London,  Man- 
chester. Edinburgh.  Glasgow,  etc.  — 2.  Exchange  Station  (PI.  B,  3).  a  hand- 
some building,  for  trains  to  Manchester,  Lancashire,  Yorkshire,  and  Scot- 


P^-r^s;^^    FT  ^'"'"^    ^'%^.^^^^^«u^L^;.*^,_^^|:"-V  y^yfi.-^_wd^J^.AJ'^;v■^^ 


^^^'L^ 


,c^ 


-:. 


LIVERPOOL. 


o 


LIVERPOOL.  42.  Route.     329 

land.— 3.  Central  or  Ranelagh.  Street  Station  (Pi.  I),  6).  for  the  Cheshire  Lines, 
G.  N.  R.,  Midland,  and  Manchester,  Sheffield,  &  Lincolnshire  Co.  (to  Sheffield, 
London,  Manchester,  Derbyshire,  Lincoln,  etc.).  —  4.  Riverside  Station, 
alongside  the  Landing  Stage  (PI.  A,  3),  for  Atlantic  passengers  only.  — 
5.  Woodside  Station,  in  Birkenhead  (see  p.  328),  for  the  G.  W.  and  L.N.  W. 
trains  to  Chester.  Birmingham,  Warwick,  London,  and  Wales.  —  6.  Central 
Station  (Low  Level),  terminus  of  the  Mersey  Tunnel  Raihcaii,  for  local 
trains  to  Birkenhead,  New  Brighton,  Hoylake,  and  West  Kirby.  —  7.  James 
Street  Station  (PI.  B,  4),  also  on  the  Mersey  Tunnel  Railway.  —  Cab  from 
the  Lime  St.  or  the  Central  Station  to  any  of  the  undernoted  hotels.   Is. 

Hotels.  'Adelphi  (PI.  a;  D,  4),  at  the  head  of  Ranelagh  St.,  near  the 
Central  Station,  R.  &  A.  4s. -7i.  %d.,  D.  3-6s. ;  'North  Western  Hotel 
(PI.  b;  D,  4),  at  the  Lime  St.  Station,  R.  &.  A.  4-6s. :  *Lancashire  and 
Yorkshire  Hotel,  at  the  Exchange  Station  (PI.  B,  3);  Grand  (PI.  c. ;  D,4), 
Imperial  (PI.  d;  D,  4),  Lime  St.,  opposite  the  station;  "^^Shaftesbury  Tem- 
perance (PI.  e;  D,  5),  Mount  Pleasant,  R.  &  A.  from  3s.;  'Laurence's  Tem- 
perance, 20  Clayton  Sq.  (PI.  C,  4);  Alexandra  (PI.  f;  B,  3),  51  Dale  St.; 
CoMPTON  (PI.  g;'C,  4),  39  Church  St.,  commercial.  R.  &  A.  5s. ;  Angel  (PI. 
j;  B,  3),  22  Dale  St  ,  R.  &  A.  4s.  U. 

Restaurants.  *Bear's  Paw,  53  Lord  St. ;  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  Cen 
tral.  Lime  St.,  and  Exchange  Stations,  and  at  the  Landing  Stage  (PI.  A,  3); 
also  at  the  A^orth  Western,  Adelphi,  Orand,  Alexandra,  Angel,  and  other 
hotels  (see  above).  —  Sainsbury's  (Anderson's)  Luncheon  Rooms,  Exchange 
St.  East,  are  crowded  at  midday  by  business  men,  and  form  one  of  the 
characteristic  flights  of  Liverpool.  —  Cafes  in  most  of  the  principal  streets. 

Cabs.  For  anv  distance  not  exceeding  1  M.,  Is.  ;  for  each  additional 
V2  M.,  Qd.  By  time,  6d.  per  '/j  hr.  These  fares  include  SOOlbs.  of  luggage 
on  a  four-wheeled  cab,  and  lOOlbs.  on  a  hansom.  Between  midnight  and 
6  a.m.  a  fare  and  a  half. 

Tramways  run  through  most  of  the  principal  streets  and  to  the  various 
suburbs.  The  chief  starting-point  is  the  Pier  Bead  (PI.  A,  3).  —  Overhead 
Electric  Railway  along  the  Docks,  see  p.  335. 

Steamers.  A.  River  Steamers,  starting  from  the  S.  end  of  the  Land- 
ing Stage  (PI.  A.  3),  ply  to  Birkenhead  (Woodside;  every  few  min. ;  fare 
id.;  between  midnight  and  3.30  a.m.,  6d.),  Egremont  (2c?.),  Eastham  (p.  328; 
4d.),  New  Brighton  (p.  336;  3rf.),  New  Ferry  C2d.),  Seacombe  (p.  336;  id.), 
Tranmere  (Id.).  The  Birkenhead  steam-ferries,  before  the  opening  of  the 
tunnel,  conveyed  about  20  millions  of  passengers  annually.  —  B.  Sea- 
Going  Steamers  ply  to  Llandudno,  Bangor,  and  Beaumaris,  daily  in  summer, 
in  4  hrs. ;  to  Mostyn,  and  to  Blackpool,  daily  in  summer;  to  Penzance,  Fal- 
mouth, and  Plymouth,  at  irregular  intervals  (fares  25s.,  15s.)-,  to  Milford 
and  Bristol  in  28  hrs.  (12s.  6d.,  6s.);  to  the  Isle  of  Man ,  see  p.  346;  to 
Dublin,  daily  (fare  8s. -13s.  6d. ;  deck3-5s.);  io  Londonderry^  thrice  a  week 
(20s.,  125.;  deck  6s.);  to  Cork,  thrice  a  week  (I7s.  6rf. ;  deck  10s.);  to  Glas- 
gow several  times  a  week  in  20  hrs.  (12s,  6d.,  6s.);  and  to  various  Con- 
tinental ports.  —  The  American  Liners  also  start  from  the  Landing  Stage 
(Riverside  Stiition,  see  above).  Other  steamers  leave  Liverpool  at  more 
or  less  regular  intervals  for  Egypt,  India,  South  America,  and  indeed  for 
almost  every  part  of  the  globe. 

Shipping  and  Forwarding  Agents-  United  States  Express  Co.  (Wheatley 
«£•  Co.),  10  North  John  Street;  Pitt  di-  Scott,  Corfs  Buildings,  Preeson's 
Row.  See  also  p.  335.  —  Steamer  Chairs  may  be  obtained  at  Bids/on's, 
Copperas  Hill  (opposite  Adelphi  Hotel)  and  21  Lime  St.  (comp.  p.  xix). 

Theatres.  Shakespeare  (PI.  E,  3),  Eraser  St.,  London  Road;  Court 
(Pl.D,  4),  Queen  Sq.;  Prince  of  Wales  (PLC,  4),  stalls  5s  ,  dress  circle  4s.; 
Rotunda,  Scotland  Road.  —  In  Birkenhead:  Royal,  Argyle  St.;  MiHropole, 
Grange  Road. 

Music  and  Concert  Halls.  Grand  Theatre  (PI.  C,  4),  Paradise  St.,  stalls 
2s. ;  Star  Music  Hall  (PI.  0,4),  Williamson  Sq.  ;  Empire  Theatre  of  Varieties, 
Lime  St. ;  TivoH  Palace,  Lime  St.  —  Philharmonic  Hall  (PI.  E,  6),  Hope  St., 
with  room  for  2500  persons.  —  Eengler's  Circus,  West  Derby  Road.  — 
Organ  Recitals  in  St.  George's  Hall  (p.  331),  on  Thurs.  at  3  p.m.  and  on 
Sat.  at  3  and  8  p.m.  (adm.  6c?.:  on  Sat.  evening  id.). 


330     Route  42.  LIVERPOOL.  History. 

Batha.  George's  Public  Baths  (PI.  A,  4),  belonging  to  the  Corporation, 
adjoining  the  Landing  Stage,  with  salt-water,  swimming,  and  other  baths ; 
Corporation  Baths  also  in  Cornwallis  St.,  Lodge  Lane,  Margaret  St.,  and 
Steble  St.  (bath  iid.-ls.) ;  Turkish  Baths,  Mulberry  St.,  Duke  St.,  and  Eberle  St. 

General  Post  Office  (PI.  C,  4),  Victoria  St. 

United  States  Consul,  James  Boyle,  Esq. 

Principal  Attractions.  The  -Docks  (p.  335);  Si.  George's  Hall  (p.  831); 
the  Exchange  and  Toicn  Hall  (p.  332);  Cn-siom  House  (p.  333);  Prince's  and 
Sefton  Parks  (p.  834);  a  river-excursion  to  Birkenhead  (p.  328)  and  New 
Brighton  (p.  336),  or  upstream  to  Eastham  (p.  328).  —  To  gain  some  idea 
of  the  characteristic  feature  of  the  city  the  visitor  is  advised  to  ride  from 
one  end  of  the  Docks  to  the  other  (8  M.)  on  the  Overhead  Railway  (p.  335), 
which  atfords  the  best  views. 

Liverpool,  the  second  city  and  principal  seaport  of  England,  is 
situated  on  a  sloping  site  on  the  right  bank  of  the  estuary  of  the 
Mersey,  ahout  3  M.  from  the  open  sea,  and  in  1891  contained 
517,951  inhab.  (with  the  suburbs  780,000),  including  about  150,000 
Roman  Catholics  and  many  Welsh  and  Irish.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric,  created  in  1880.  Opposite  Liverpool  the  Mersey  is  about 
1  M,  wide,  but  above  the  city  it  expands  and  forms  a  basin  3  M. 
across.  Its  mouth,  which  is  strongly  fortified,  is  partly  closed  by 
large  sandbanks,  leaving  two  channels,  the  Queen's  and  the  Formby, 
for  the  entrance  of  vessels.  The  highest  ground  in  the  city  is  about 
250  ft.  above  the  sea.  Owing  mainly  to  its  magnificent  river  and 
imposing  series  of  docks,  Liverpool  makes  a  more  pleasing  impres- 
sion than  Manchester  and  many  other  large  towns.  The  group  of 
buildings  round  St.  George's  Hall  has  few  equals  in  the  country. 

History.  The  name  of  Liverpool  is  popularly  derived  from  an 
extinct  bird,  the  Liver,  which  once  haunted  the  Mersey  and  is  still  sup- 
posed to  figure  in  the  town-arms;  but  a  more  probable  etymology  con- 
nects it  with  the  Welsh  Llyvrpwl,  'the  expanse  of  the  pooL.  The  name 
of  the  manor  of  Liverpul  first  occurs  in  a  charter  (1207)  of  King  John, 
who  built  a  castle  and  founded  a  town  here.  The  growth  of  the  town 
during  the  following  centuries  was  slow.  For  the  siege  of  Calais  in 
1338  it  furnished  but  one  small  bark  with  six  men,  and  even  in  the  reign 
of  Elizabeth  (1565)  it  possessed  only  12  ships  and  contained  only  138  house- 
holders. From  1588  to  1592  the  borough  of  Liverpool  was  represented  in 
Parliament  by  Sir  Francis  Bacon.  In  the  Civil  War  Liverpool  sided  with 
the  Parliamentarians,  and  with  the  aid  of  hastily  thrown-up  fortifications 
held  out  against  Prince  Rupert  in  1644  for  three  weeks.  The  beginning 
of  its  commercial  importance  may  be  dated  from  the  Restoration ,  and 
the  first  dock  was  constructed  in  1709.  At  this  time  the  little  town 
contained  about  5(X)0  inhab.,  a  number  that  increased  to  12,000  in  1780, 
to  26,000  in  1760,  and  to  77,700  in  ISOl,  while  during  the  present  century 
its  growth  has  been  extraordinarily  rapid.  In  1723  it  already  possessed  a 
trading  fleet  of  131  vessels.  The  most  lucrative  occupation  of  the  Liver- 
pool shippers  was  long  the  nefarious  traffic  in  negro  slaves  with  the 
Spanish  Main,  in  which  it  was  the  first  English  town  to  engage.  With 
this  was  conjoined  a  smuggling  trade  in  various  English  manufactures, 
and  in  the  rum,  sugar,  and  tobacco  of  the  Spanish  colonies.  About  1840 
regular  steam-communication  was  opened  between  Liverpool  and  Xew  York, 
and  this  may  be  said  to  have  established  the  modern  pre-eminence  of  Liver- 
pool. The  importation  of  raw  cotton,  grain,  and  breadstuff's  from  the  United 
States  forms  the  great  staple  of  its  commerce,  while  it  also  carries  on  a 
large  trade  with  Ireland  (cattle,  butter,  and  other  provisions),  Canada 
(timber),  India,  Africa,  Australia,  China,  the  West  Indies,  and  South 
America.     The  exports  consist  chiefly  of  manufactured  articles,  including 


St.  George  6  Hall.  LIVERPOOL.  42.  Route.     331 

a  large  quantity  of  the  cotton  goods  made  in  the  Manchester  district,  but 
the  coal  and  salt  of  Wales  and  Cheshire  also  figure  largely.  The  total 
value  of  the  exports  is  considerably  greater  than  that  of  the  exports  of 
London,  though  in  value  of  imports  the  metropolis  heads  the  list.  The 
registered  tonnage  of  vessels  belonging  to  Liverpool  is  larger  than  the  reg- 
istered tonnage  of  either  London  or  Glasgow.  The  principal  industries  of 
Liverpool  are  grain-milling,  sugar-refming,  iron  and  steel-working,  rope- 
making,  and  the  manufacture  of  chemicals.  The  distinguished  natives 
of  Liverpool  include  the  Right  Hon.  W.  E.  Gladstone  (b.  1809 ;  see  p.  333), 
whose  father,  Sir  .John  Gladstone,  was  a  prominent  Liverpool  merchant; 
Jeremiah  Horrocks  (1619-41),  the  astroudmer;  Mrs.  Hemans  (179.3-1835).  Wil- 
liam Roscoe  (1753-1831),  and  General  Earle  (d.  18S5).  Nathaniel  Hawthorne 
was  U.  S.  consul  at  Liverpool  from  1853  to  1857;  his  office  was  in  Brunswick 
St.  (PI.  B,  4).    Comp.  Sir  J.  A.  Picton's'-  Memorials  of  Liverpool'  (1875). 

Immediately  opposite  Lime  Street  Station  stands  *St.  George's 
Hall  (PL  D,  3,  4),  the  finest  architectural  feature  of  Liverpool, 
erected  in  1838-54,  at  a  cost  of  300, 000^,  from  the  designs  of 
H.  Elmes.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Graeco-Roman  temple ,  600  ft. 
long  and  170  ft.  -wide,  and  consists  of  a  large  central  block  with 
two  wings.  On  the  E.  fac^ade  is  a  fine  Corinthian  colonnade  with 
16  columns,  and  at  the  S.  end  is  a  similar  portico,  the  tympanum 
above  which  contains  emblematical  sculptures  (commerce,  art, 
etc.).  The  N.  end  is  semicircular.  The  W.  facade ,  with  its  pil- 
asters and  windows,  is  the  least  satisfactory  ef  the  four. 

The  ''Great  Hall,  170  ft.  long,  90  ft.  wide,  and  80  ft.  high,  is  finely 
decorated  and  is  used  for  public  meetings,  concerts,  etc.  The  organ  is 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  world  (recitals,  see  p.  329).  The  hall  contains 
several  statues  of  local  and  other  celebrities,  and  has  a  handsome  mosaic 
pavement  (boarded  over).  The  arched  roof  is  of  stone.  The  wings  to 
the  N.  and  S.  of  the  hall  are  occupied  by  the  Courts  of  Assize.  Over  the  N. 
vestibule  is  the  Small  Concert  Hall,  in  elliptical  form.  The  rest  of  the 
building  is  devoted  to  public  offices. 

(Opposite  the  E.  facade  of  St.  George's  Hall  are  statues  of  Queen 
Victoria,  the  late  Prince  Consort  (both  by  Thomycroft),  and  the  Earl 
of  Beaconsfield .  At  the  S.E.  corner  is  a  statue  of  General  Earle  (see 
above).  To  the  N.E.  rises  the  Wellington  Monument,  a  column 
115  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue. 

To  the  N.  of  St.  George's  Hall  is  an  imposing  group  of  buildings 
in  the  Grecian  style  (PI.  D,  3).  The  edifice  to  the  right,  with  a 
Corinthian  portico,  is  the  County  Sessions  House.  —  This  is  ad- 
joined by  the  Walker  Fine  Art  Gallery  (daily  ,  10  till  dusk), 
erected  in  1877  by  Sir  Andrew  B.  Walker  (d.  1893),  and  containing  a 
good  collection  of  modern  paintings ,  including  *Dante'6  Dream, 
by  Rossetti.  The  Gallery  now  also  contains  the  Roscoe  Collection, 
including  early  Italian,  Flemish,  and  German  paintings,  and  casts 
of  the  .iEgina  marbles  and  other  Greek  sculptures. 

Among  the  paintings ,  which  are  more  interesting  to  the  student  of 
art  than  to  the  ordinary  visitor,  the  following  may  be  mentioned :  Filippo 
Lippi,  Birth  of  the  Virgin;  Simone  Memmi,  Christ  with  the  Doctors  of  the 
Temple ;  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  Holbein.,  Pro- 
digal Son; /-cartoons  by  Romney  and  Gibson  (Falling  Angels);  a  striking 
sketch  by  Tintoretto.  The  statue  of  Roscoe  is  by  Chantrey.  —  Annual  ex- 
hibitions of  art  are  held  here. 


332     Route  42.  LIVERPOOL.  Town  Hall. 

The  circular  building  next  the  gallery  is  the  Picton  Beading 
Boom,  with  a  reference-library  of  70,000  volumes.  —  To  the  left 
of  the  Picton  Reading  Room  is  the  Free  Public  Library  and  Mu- 
seum, erected  in  1860  at  the  expense  of  Sir  Wm.  Brown. 

It  comprises  a  well-stocked  Library  of  80,000  vols.  (10-10;  on  Frid.  10-2), 
spacious  Reading  Rooms,  and  a  Museum  (Mon.,  Wed.,  Thurs.,  <fe  Sat.,  10  till 
dusk).  The  chief  attractions  of  the  last  are  the  zoological  collection 
presented  by  the  late  Earl  of  Derby,  and  the  Egyptian,  Anglo-Saxon, 
and  other  antiquities  given  by  Mr.  Mayer. 

At  the  back  [W.)  of  St.  George's  Hall  is  St.  John's  Church  (PI.  D, 
3),  a  poor  building  which  it  has  been  proposed  to  replace  by  a 
cathedral. 

From  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  square,  Dale  Street  (PL  B,  C,  3), 
a  well-built  street  with  good  shops  and  several  important  public 
buildings,  leads  to  the  S.  W.  towards  the  Docks.  A  little  way  down 
this  street,  on  the  left,  are  the  Municipal  Offices  (PL  C,  3),  a  huge 
edifice  in  a  mixed  style,  erected  in  1860  at  a  cost  of  100,000i.,  with 
a  tower  210  ft.  high.  Opposite  is  the  Central  Police  Court  (PL  C,  3). 

At  the  back  of  the  Municipal  Offices,  facing  Victoria  St.,  are  the 
County  Courts  Stamp  Office,  and  Inland  Revenue  Offices  (PI.  C,  3). 

Farther  on  are  the  Conservative  Club  (left) ,  the  Junior  Reform 
Club  (left),  and  the  Reform  Club  (right).  At  the  end  of  the  street,  to 
the  right,  rises  the  *TownHall  (PL  B,  3),  the  oldest  public  build- 
ing in  Liverpool,  erected  in  1754  by  Wood,  the  architect  of  the 
terraces  at  Bath.  It  is  a  rectangular  structure  in  the  Corinthian 
style,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  dome.  The  portico  was  added  about 
1804.  The  building,  which  includes  the  official  business  and 
reception  rooms  of  the  Mayor,  contains  a  statue  of  Canning,  by 
Chantrey,  and  some  portraits  by  Lawrence. 

The  Town  Hall  forms  one  side  of  a  quadrangle,  the  other  sides 
of  which  are  occupied  by  the  Excliange  (PL  B,  3),  a  large  building 
in  the  French  Renaissance  style  by  Wyatt,  erected  in  1864  et  seq. 
at  a  cost  of  220,000i.    The  main  front  faces  Tithebarn  St. 

The  pediment  in  the  centre  of  the  N.  side  is  adorned,  on  the  face  turned 
towards  the  quadrangle,  with  an  allegorical  group  of  sculpture;  and  on 
the  parapet  are  statues  of  Columbus,  Drake,  Mercator,  Raleigh,  Cook, 
and  Galileo.  In  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Nelson. 
The  fine  News  Room  in  the  W.  wing  is  175  ft.  long,  90  ft.  wide,  and  50  ft. 
high.  Adjoining  the  News  Room  is  a  new  Cotton  Exchange,  worth  a  visit.  In 
fine  weather,  however,  the  cotton-brokers  prefer  to  transact  most  of  their 
business  on  the  'Flags'  of  the  quadrangle  instead  of  under  cover.  This  is 
one  of  the  'sights'  of  Liverpool.     The  busiest  hours  are  12-1  and  3-4. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Exchange,  in  Tithebarn  St.,  is  the  Exchange 
Station  (PI.  B,  3;  p.  328).  —  From  the  Exchange  Chapel  Street  leads  to  the 
Docks  (p.  335),  passing  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas  (PI.  A,  3),  the  patron 
saint  of  mariners.  This  church  was  the  first  founded  in  Liverpool,  of 
which  it  was  the  original  parish-church;  the  present  building,  however, 
dates  only  from  last  cent.,  while  the  tower,  with  its  lantern,  was  erected 
in  1815  on  the  fall  of  an  older  one. 

From  ih.e  toyvn-hall,  Water  Street  (Pl.B.  3),  containing  the  offices 
of  the  Cunard  and  several  other  steamboat-companies,  leads  S.W. 


St.  Peter's  Church.  LIVERPOOL.  4?.  Route.     333 

to  the  Docks,  while  the  busy  Castle  Street,  the  'embodiment  of 
Liverpool's  character  and  the  centre  of  its  system',  leads  to  the  S.E., 
passing  St.  George's  Church  (PI.  B,  4),  erected  on  the  site  of  King 
John's  castle  (p.  330).  Castle  St.  ends  in  Canning  Place,  in  which 
is  the  Custom  House  (PI.  B,  5;  formerly  the  Revenue  Buildings), 
a  huge  and  heavy  pile  in  the  Ionic  style,  with  a  central  dome,  oc- 
cupying the  site  of  the  first  Liverpool  dock,  and  comprising  the 
Dock  Board  Officer.  In  front  of  the  N.  side  is  a  Statue  of  Huskisson 
(1770-1830),  the  free-trader,  member  of  parliament  for  Liverpool 
(see  below).  — •  Opposite  the  E.  end  of  the  custom-house  is  the 
Sailors'  Home  (PI.  B,  5),  in  an  Elizabethan  style. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Sailors'  Home,  in  School  Lane,  is  the  Blue- 
coat  Hospital  (PI.  C,  4),  erected  in  1717,  an  institution  similar  to  the  well- 
known  Christ's  Hospital  in  London.  Opposite  the  school  is  St.  Peter's 
Church  (PI.  C,  4),  at  present  the  pro-cathedral  of  the  diocese  of  Liverpool 
(services  on  Sun.  at  3  p.  m.  and  on  week-davs  at  5  p.  m.).  —  In  Eliot 
Street,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Central  Station  (PI.  D,  5  j  p.  328),  is  St.  John's 
Market  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  the  chief  provision- market  of  Liverpool,  a  huge 
covered  structure  560  ft.  long. 

At  the  end  of  Hanover  St.,  near  the  Sailors'  Home  (see  above), 
begins  Duke  Street  (PI.  C,  5),  which  we  may  now  follow  towards 
the  S.E.  It  was  in  this  street  (No.  32)  that  Mrs.  Hemans  was  born; 
and  Hawthorne's  'Mrs.  Blodgett'  lived  at  No.  153.  Kerht  Street^  the 
fifth  cross-street  to  the  right,  leads  to  an  open  space  containing 
St.  Michael's  Church  (PI.  C,  6),  with  a  good  Grecian  portico  and  the 
highest  spire  in  Liverpool.  Opposite  Kent  St.  diverges  Colquitt 
Street,  in  which  stands  the  Royal  Institution  (PI.  D,  6),  founded 
mainly  through  the  exertions  of  William  Roscoe  (p.  331),  the  author 
of  the  lives  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici  and  Leo  X. 

Colquitt  Street  ends  at  Bold  Street,  with  many  of  the  best  shops. 
Here  we  may  proceed  to  the  left  to  Ranelagh  Street  and  the  Central 
Station  (p.  328),  passing  at  the  foot  of  Bold  Street,  to  the  right,  the 
Lyceum  (PI.  C,  5),  with  a  library  of  70,000  vols,  and  a  fine  reading- 
room.  If  we  turn  to  the  right  on  reaching  Bold  St.  we  soon  come  to 
St.  Luke's  Church  (PL  D,  6),  a  handsome  modern  Gothic  structure, 
built  in  1811-31  and  occupying  a  fine  elevated  site. 

From  this  point  Renshaw  St.  (PI.  D,  5)  leads  back  to  Lime  St. 
p.  331),  passing  the  Unitarian  Chapel  in  which  Roscoe  (d.  1831) 
is  interred.  Leece  St.  ascends  to  Rodney  Street  (PL  D,  5,  6),  at 
No.  62  in  which  W.  E,  Gladstone  was  born  in  1809.  —  Following 
Hope  Street  towards  the  S.,  we  pass  a  handsome  Unitarian  Church 
(PI.  E,  6)  and  the  end  of  Mount  Street,  in  which  stands  the  Liver- 
pool Institute  (^Pl.  D,  6),  originally  established  as  a  Mechanics' 
Institute ,  but  now  used  as  a  high  school.  It  is  adjoined  by  the 
Government  School  of  Art.  —  Hope  St.  ends  at  *St.  James's  Cemetery 
(PL  D,  7),  picturesquely  laid  out  in  an  old  quarry  and  containing 
the  mausoleum  of  Huskisson  (see  above),  with  a  statue  by  Gibson. 

The  S.  end  of  St.  James's  Cemetery  is  skirted  by  Upper  Parliament 
Street,  from  which,  opposite  Catharine  St.  (PI.  E,  7),  diverges  Prince's 
Road,  a  boulevard  containing  the  Oreek  Church  (in  a  Byzantine  style),  the 


334     Route  42.  LIVERPOOL.  Bowes  Museum. 

Church  of  St.  Margaret  (with  an  elaborately- decorated  interior),  a  Synagogue 
(in  a  Moorish  style),  and  the  Welsh  Presbyterian  Church  (Gothic).  Prince's 
Road  ends  at  (V2  M.)  Prince'' s  Park,  40  acres  in  extent. 

At  Streatlam  Towers.,  between  St.  Margaret's  and  the  Synagogne,  is  the 
'Bowes  Museum  of  Japanese  Art,  formed  by  Mv.  J.  L.  Bowes,  Hon.  Con- 
sul for  Japan,  and  probably  the  most  comprehensive  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  the  kind  in  the  world,  Japan  itself  not  excluded  (adm.  daily, 
except  Sun.,  2-4,  is.-,  proceeds  devoted  to  charity).  The  contents  include 
paintings  (8-19th  cent.),  lacquer  ware  (10-19th  cent.  -,  ^Cabinet  made  for 
Tokugawa  Shogun),  wrought -iron  work,  bronzes,  pottery,  *Cloisonn6 
enamels,  wood  and  ivory  carvings,  embroideries,  crystals,  an  *Amethyst 
of  great  size,  weapons,  etc. 

To  the  N.W.  of  Prince's  Park  is  *Sefton  Park,  with  an  area  of  400 
acres ,  purchased  and  laid  out  by  the  Corporation  at  a  cost  of  410,000^ 
The  large  Conservator i/,  presented  to  the  town  in  1896,  contains  the  finest 
collection  of  palms  in  the  country  (valued  at  10,000Z.).  On  the  apex  of  the 
conservatory  is  a  model  of  the  ship  in  which  Columbus  fi.rst  sailed  to  America. 
From  the  park  we  may  return  to  the  centre  of  the  town  by  tramway.  — 
The  Church  of  SS.  Matthew  and  James,  on  Mossley  Hill,  overlooking 
Sefton  Park,   is  a  handsome  red  building,  with  a  fine  tower. 

Starting  again  from  Lime  St.  we  may  now  follow  the  London 
Road  towards  the  E..  passing  the  (4  min.)  Statue  of  Oeorge  III. 
(PI.  E,  4).  On  reaching  Moss  Street  we  follow  it  to  the  left  (W.)  to 
Shaw  Street,  which  is  perhaps  the  most  regularly-huilt  street  in 
Liverpool.  Immediately  to  the  right  rises  Liverpool  College,  a  large 
and  handsome  school  for  boys,  in  the  Tudor  style,  by  Elmes 
(p.  331).  In  Salisbury  St.,  to  the  S.  of  Shaw  St.,  is  the  large  Ro- 
man Catholic  Church  of  St.  Francis  Xavier. 

From  Moss  St.  (see  above)  Daulby  Street  and  Pembroke  Place, 
passing  the  Royal  Infirmary  (rebuilt  at  a  cost  of  75,000i.),  lead  S. 
to  Ashton  Street,  which  contains  the  old  buildings  of  Liverpool 
University  College,  incorporated  in  1881  and  constituted  one  of 
the  colleges  of  Victoria  University  (comp.  p.  343)  in  1884.  The 
main  part  of  the  Victoria  Buildings  (1892)  of  the  college  lie  to  the 
right,  in  Brownlow  Hill,  and  consist  of  the  Arts  section  and  office, 
the  Victoria  Jubilee  Tower,  the  library,  and  the  engineering  labor- 
atories, built,  fitted  up,  and  presented  to  the  town  by  Sir  A.Walker. 
The  chemical  laboratories  (abutting  on  Brownlow  St.;  PI.  E,  5)  are 
excellently  fitted  up.  To  the  W.  is  the  Medical  School.  —  We  next 
enter  Mount  Pleasant  (PI.  E,  5),  which  brings  us  back  to  Lime 
Street.  On  the  right  we  pass  the  large  Workhouse  (PI.  E,  5;  with 
room  for  4000  inmates)  and  on  the  left  the  Medical  Institution,  the 
Convent  of  Notre  Dame,  and  the  Young  Mens  Christian  Association. 

The  Botanic  Gardens  are  in  Waver  tree  Park,  i/i  ^^-  to  the  E.  —  To  the 
N.  extends  the  district  of  Everton,  formerly  a  suburban  village.  It  is 
largely  inhabited  by  Welsh  people.  'Everton  Tofi"ee'  may  still  be  purchased 
at  one  of  the  cottages  near  Everton  Brow,  where  it  was  originally  made. 

To  the  N.  E.  of  the  city  lies  Stanley  Park  (reached  by  tramway,  p. 
329),  laid  out  by  the  Corporation  at  a  cost  of  150,(X)0/.,  and  command 
ing  fine  views  of  the  Welsh  and  the  Cumbrian  Mts.  —  To  the  E.  is  News- 
ham  Park,  with  the  Seamen''s  Orphanage  (tramway).  Adjacent  is  the  large 
Cattle  Market.  —  The  Ancient  Chapel  of  Toxteth  Park,  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  town,  was  the  scene  of  the  ministrations  of  Richard  Mather,  father 
of  Increase  Mather,   and   grandfather  of  Cotton  Mather,   of  Massachusetts. 


Docks.  LIVERPOOL.  4?.  Route.     335 

The  most  characteristic  and  interesting  of  the  sights  of  Liver- 
pool, however,  consists  in  its  *Docks,  which  flank  the  Mersey  for 
a  distance  of  6-7  M.  There  are  now  in  all  upwards  of  50  docks  and 
basins ,  with  a  total  water-area  of  389  acres  and  26  M.   of  quays. 

The  docks  of  Birkenhead  (see  p.  328)  are  under  the  same  manage- 
ment (Mersey  Docks  and  Harbour  Board),  and  are  reckoned  as  belonging 
to  the  harbour  of  Liverpool.  The  amount  of  dock-dues  received  in  the 
year  ending  July  1st,  1896,  was  1,086,511/.,  paid  by  23,695  vessels  of 
ll,0i6,459  tons.  —  An  Overhead  Electric  Railway  (p.  329),  traversing  the 
whole  of  the  streets  skirting  the  Docks  and  extending  on  the  N.  to  Sea- 
forth  Sands  and  on  the  S.  U)  the  Dinyle,  was  opened  in  1893  (fares  3d.  and2(i.). 

The  row  of  docks  is  interrupted  near  its  centre  by  the  principal 
*Landing  Stage  [PI.  A,  3)  for  steamers,  consisting  of  a  huge  pon- 
toon or  floating  quay ,  2463  ft.  long,  connected  with  the  shore  by 
eight  bridges.  Sea-going  steamers  start  from  the  N.  end  of  this  pier, 
known  as  Prince's,  while  the  river  ferry-boats  ply  from  George  s, 
or  the  S.  end.  The  open  space  opposite  the  principal  approach  to 
the  Landing  Stage  is  known  as  the  Pier  Head  (PI.  A,  3),  and  is  a 
busy  terminus  of  numerous  omnibus  and  tramway  lines. 

Cabin-passengers  by  the  Transatlantic  steamers  generally  land  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  Landing  Stage.  They  may  proceed  to  London,  etc.,  direct 
from  the  Riverside  Station  (p.  329).  Their  baggage  is  conveyed  by  machinery 
to  a  Customs  Examining  Hall  on  shore,  where  licensed  porters  are  in 
waiting  to  carry  it  to  the  cabs  (each  trunk  6d.,  smaller  articles  3d.).  Agents 
of  the  principal  railway  companies  meet  the  steamers,  and  baggage  may 
be  'checked'  to  any  station  on  their  systems  at  a  charge  of  2«.  per  package. 
Comp.  p.  829  and  p.  xix. 

The  following  are  the  principal  docks,  named  from  N.  to  S.  The 
Hornby  Dock  was  opened  in  1884.  Next  to  it  is  the  Alexandra  Dock,  the 
largest  of  all,  with  a  water-area  of  44  acres.  Most  of  the  large  Transat- 
lantic 'liners'  now  dock  here  (apply  to  steward;  fee),  and  it  is  also  ex- 
tensively used  by  grain-laden  vessels.  The  ingenious  arrangements  for 
conveying  the  grain  from  the  docks  to  the  huge  storehouses,  V*  M.  distant, 
by  means  of  endless  revolving  belts  in  subways,  are  extremely  interesting; 
as  are  also  the  similar  contrivances  for  distributing  the  grain  at  the  store- 
houses, which  are  on  the  'silo'  system.  The  visitor  should  apply  for  an 
order  to  see  the  warehouses  at  the  oflice  of  the  Liverpool  Grain  Storage  & 
Transit  Co.,  Fenwick  St.  (PL  B,  3,  4).  —  The  Langton  Dock  (21  acres) 
was  constructed,  like  the  Alexandra,  to  enable  vessels  of  the  largest  size 
to  enter  without  discharging  cargo,  as  was  formerly  necessary  at  neap 
tides.  The  Canada  Dock,  used  by  steamers  of  the  White  Star  Lino  and  by 
vessels  trading  in  timber,  and  the  following  three  docks,  Huskisson,  Sandon 
(with  several  graving-docks),  and  Wellinffton,  are  also  on  a  large  scale  and 
can  accommodate  vessels  of  the  largest  size.  \  new  graving-dock,  now  being 
excavated  beside  Canada  dock,  will  when  completed  be  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  world.  A  little  farther  up  the  river  is  Salisbury  Dock.,  with  a  clock- 
tower,  which  is  illuminated  at  night.  The  Victoria  Dock  (PI.  A,  1)  was 
formerly  used  by  emigrant-ships.  Waterloo  Dock  (PL  A,  1)  is  partly  sur- 
rounded with  huge  Corn  Warehouses,  holding  200,000  qrs.  of  grain.  The 
arrangements  for  unloading  resemble  those  at  the  Alexandra  Dock  (ad- 
mission on  application  to  the  Dock  Board).  Behind  George's  Dock  (PL  A, 
3,  4)  are  the  Goree  Piazzas,  No.  1  in  which  was  the  scene  of  a  disastrous 
commercial  enterprise  undertaken  by  Washington  Irving,  (leorge's  Dock 
is  connected  with  Canning  Dock  (PI.  A,  4),  the  oldest  now  in  existence, 
constructed  in  1717.  It  lies  opposite  the  Custom  House  (p.  333).  The  Albert 
Dock  (PL  A.  5)  ditl'ers  from  most  of  the  Liverpool  docks  in  being  completely 
surrounded  with  warehouses  (as  in  London).  Adjoining  King^s  Dock  (PL 
A,  6)  is  the  Tobacco  Warehouse,  in  which  about  25,000  hogsheads  of  tobacco 


336     Route  42.  LIVERPOOL. 

generally  He  in  bond.  The  Queen''s  (PI.  A,  7),  Coburg.  and  Brunswick  Bocks 
are  also  fine  large  basins.  The  last  is  adjoined  by  extensive  ship-building 
yards.  The  row  of  docks  closes  on  the  S.  with  the  Toxteth,  Harrington^ 
and  Herculctneum  Docks,  the  name  of  the  last  embalming  the  memory  of 
the  once  important  Liverpool  manufacture  of  pottery. 

Fkom  Liverpool  to  Birkenhead,  New  Brighton,  Hotlake,  and  West 
KiRBT,  9  31.,  railway  in  Vj  br.  This  line  passes  under  the  river  by  the 
Mersey  Tunnel,  a  huge  structure  resembling  the  Thames  Tunnel  in 
London,  begun  in  1880,  and  opened  for  traffic  in  188B,  It  is  about  1  M. 
in  length,  and  has  'exchange''  stations  with  the  Cheshire  Lines  at  the 
Central  Station  in  Liverpool,  and  with  the  London  and  North-Western 
and  Great  Western  Joint  Line  at  Rock  Ferry  (p.  328).  The  Liverpool  stations 
are  at  Central  Station  (Low  Level)  and  in  James  St.  (P1.B,4).  Lifts  convey 
passengers  between  the  streets  and  the  platforms.  Trains  run  to  Birken- 
head (Hamilton  Square,  with  passenger  lifts:  3-4  min.)  at  frequent  inter- 
vals. At  Hamilton  Square  the  line  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Birken- 
head Central,  Green  Lane,  and  Rock  Ferry  (p.  328).  The  right  branch  goes 
on  to  (21/2 M.)  Birkenhead  Par*  (p. 328),  where  it  emerges  from  the  tunnel, 
and  (3V-.  M.)  Birkenhead  Docks.  Here  the  line  again  forks,  one  branch 
running  to  Wallasey,  Warren,  and  (6V2  M.)  New  Brighton^  the  other  to  Bidston 
(junction  for  Hawarden  and  Wrexham,  see  p.  273),  (8  M.)  Hoylake,  and 
(SJ  M.)  West  Kirby  (see  p.  328).  —  New  Brighton  (Marine  ;  Royal  Ferry ;  New 
Brighton;  Queen's),  a  favourite  resort  of  'trippers',  lies  on  the  Cheshire 
side  of  the  Mersey,  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Birkenhead.  The  Pier  (Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  560  ft.  long,  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  shipping  and  docks  of 
Liverpool,  the  Irish  Sea,  and  the  mountains  of  Wales.  By  the  pier  is  a 
large  Palace  <t  Winter  Garden.  Near  the  end  of  the  Promenade  is  the 
strongly-fortified  Rock  Buttery.  Frequent  steamers  to  (4  M.)  Liverpool  (see 
p.  329);  also  to  Egremont.  —  Hoylake,  a  small  watering-place  on  the 
estuary  of  the  Dee,  is  much  frequented  by  golfers,  its  links  being  among 
the  best  in  England. 

Among  the  other  attractive  river-e.xcursions  that  may  be  made  trom 
Liverpool  are  those  to  Seacombe  (p.  329)  and  Eastham  Ferry  (p.  328).  -— 
The  most  interesting  of  the  numerous  manor-houses  near  Liverpool  is 
Knowsley,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Derby,  situated  5  M.  to  theN.E.,  in  the 
midst  of  a  large  park.  The  house  contains  paintings  by  Rubens,  Rembrandt, 
Teniers,  Van  de  Velde,  and  Claude  Lorrain,  and  a  series  of  family-por- 
traits, beginning  with  the  first  Earl  of  Derby,  step-father  of  Henry  VII. 
—  Childwall  Mall,  3  M.  to  the  E.,  with  remains  of  an  old  priory,  belongs 
to  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury.  The  curfew  is  still  rung  at  Childwall  parish 
church.  —  Croxleth  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Sefton,  lies  31/2  M.  to  the 
N.E.  —  Speke  Hall,  7  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Liverpool,  is  one  of  the  finest 
Elizabethan  mansions  in  England,  with  fine  oak-carvings,  etc.  (p.  Iv). 

From  Liverpool  to  Preston,  26V2  M.,  railway  in  ^It-VI*  hr.  (fares 
4s.  6d.,  3s.,  2s.  5d.).  We  start  from  the  Exchange  Station.  —  The  train 
crosses  the  Leeds  and  Liverpool  Canal  twice  and  reaches  (4^/4  M.)  Ain- 
tree,  where  the  Liverpool  race-meetings  take  place.  —  IIV2  M.  Ormskirk 
(  Wheatsheaf ;  Talbot),  a  busy  market- town  with  6650  inhab.  The 'Church, 
with  its  huge  embattled  tower  and  spire,  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the 
Earls  of  Derby.  In  the  vicinity  are  (3  M.)  Scarisbrick  Hall,  (3  M.)  Lathom 
House  (Earl  of  Lathom),  and  (2  M.  to  the  N.)  the  scanty  ruins  of  5«r6C0M5r/i 
Priory.  —  From  (14  M.)  Burscough  lines  diverge  to  Southport  and  Wigan 
(p.  380).  —  At  (26 V2  M.)  Preston  we  join  the  main  L.N.W.   line  (p.  380). 

From  Liverpool  to  Southport,  18  M.,  railway  in  ^/t-i^l-z  hr.  (fares  2s., 
Is.  Sd.,  Is.  3d.).  —  We  start  from  the  Exchange  Station.  21/2  M.  Bootle, 
a  borough  with  about  50,000  inhab.,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey,  is  practi- 
cally a  suburb  of  Liverpool.  6  M.  Waterloo  is  also  a  suburb  of  Liverpool, 
with  the  villas  of  numerous  Liverpool  merchants.  —  6  M.  Blundellsands  tt 
Crosby.  The  little  watering-place  of  C'rosSy  (Blundell  Arms)  lies  i'/2M.  to 
the'  W.  of  the  station.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  Ince  Hall,  with  a  large 
collection  of  paintings  and  sculptures.  —  Near  (11  M.)  Formby  are  Altcar 
Flats,  where  the  'Waterloo  Coursing  Meetings'  are  held.  — -  15  M.  Ainsdale. 

18  M.  Southport  ("Victoria;  Prince   of  Wales;  Royal;   Queens;  Sci.ris- 


ST.  HELEN'S.  43.  Route.     337 

brick  Arms;  Pearjeanfs  Temperance ;  Palace ;  Hydropathic ;  numerous  lodging 
houses)  is  a  pleasant  and  handsomely-built  modern  watering-place  with 
32,000  inhab.,  frequented  annually  by  many  thousands  of  visitors  from  Li- 
verpool, Manchester,  and  the  manufacturing  towns  of  Yorkshire.  The 
broad  sandy  beach  is  fairly  adapted  for  promenading  and  bathing,  and  the 
former  huge  expanse  of  wet  sand  exposed  at  low  tide  is  now  occupied 
by  two  marine  lakea.  The  Winter  Oardcn  (concerts  dailyj,  which  com- 
prises a  good  Aquarium  and  a  small  Theatre,  the  long  Pier  (with  tramway), 
Kew  Gardens,  and  the  "Botanic  Gardens  (3  M.  to  the  N.W.)  attract  numerous 
visitors.  The  Esplanade  aflords  a  line  view  of  the  Welsh  and  the  Cumber- 
land hills,  while  the  Isle  of  Man  is  also  visible  in  clear  weather.  —  Steamers 
ply  regularly  from  Southport  to  Lijtham  (p.  881)  and  Blackpool  (p.  381). 
The  railway  goes  on  to  Preston  (p.  380). 

From  Liverpool  to  Manchester,  see  R.  43;  to  London,  see  B.  -15. 

43.   From  Liverpool  to  Manchester. 

a.   From  Liverpool  to  Manchester  via  Newton-le- Willows. 

31  Vz  M.  L.N.W.  Railway  in  3/4-IV2  br.  (fares  55.  6d.,  45.,  25.  Gd.; 
return  85.,  65.,  45.  6<Z.).  This  line,  constructed  in  1830  at  a  cost  of  1,000,000?., 
is  one  of  the  oldest  of  existing  railways.  The  crucial  part  of  the  under- 
taking was  the  filling  up  of  Chat  Moss,  a  huge  and  dangerous  swamp, 
12  sq.M.  in  extent  and  in  places  30  ft.  deep.  The  manufacturing  district 
traversed  is  uninteresting. 

After  leaving  Lime  St.  Station  (p.  328)  the  train  stops  at 
(11/4  M.)  Edgehill,  near  the  Botanic  Gardens  (p.  334).  —  From 
(5  M.)  Huyton  the  Scottish  express  route  diverges  to  the  left  via 
St.  Helen's  and  Wigan.  From  (ll'/2  M.)  St.  Helen's  Junction  a 
branch-line  leads  N.  to  St.  Helen's  (Raoen),  a  town  with  71,288 
inhab.,  noted  for  its  manufactures  of  plate -glass,  and  thence  to 
Rainford  (p.  338)  and  Ormskirk  (p.  336),  while  another  runs  S.  to 
Widnes  and  Runcorn  (Royal  Hotel),  the  latter  a  river-port  with 
20,000  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Mersey,  12  M.  above  Liverpool.  — 
15  M.  Earlestown,  with  the  large  waggon-works  of  the  railway,  is 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  Warrington  (p.  338)  and  Chester  (p.  273). 
—  At  (16  M.)  Newton-le-Willows  we  cross  the  main  line  of  the 
L.N.W.  Railway  from  London  to  Carlisle  and  the  North.  At  (^161/2  M.) 
Parkside  Mr.  Huskisson  was  killed  at  the  opening  of  the  railway 
(comp.  p.  333).  —  19^2  M.  Kenyon  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to 
Bolton  (p.  344).  Beyond  (21  M.)  Glazebury  if  Bury  Lane  the  train 
crosses  Chat  Moss  (see  above).  At  (2672  M.)  Patricroft  is  the  Iron 
Foundry  established  by  James  Nasmyth,  one  of  the  largest  in  Eng- 
land.—  271/2  M.  Eccles  (Cross  Keys),  prettily  situated  on  the  Irwell. 

311/2  M.  Manchester  (Exchange  Station),  see  p.  338. 

b.   From  Liverpool  to  Manchester  via  Warrington  and  GLazebrook. 

34  M.  'Cheshire  Lines'  Railway  in  V*-!' 4  hr.  (fares  5«.  6d.,  4«.,  25, 
6c?.).  As  far  as  (26  M.)  Glazebrook  (p.  336)  this  line  coincides  with  the 
m;\in  Liverpool  and  London  line  of  the  Midland  Railway  (.see  R.  45b). 

We  Start  from  the  Central  Station  in  Ranelagh  Street  (p.  329). 
The  train  then  stops  at  (1  M.  )  St.  James's  and  (21/2  M.)  St.  Michael's, 
crosses  Toxteth  Park  (p.  334),  and  reaches  (31/0  M.)  OtterspooL    To 

Baedekek's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  22 


338     Route  43.  WARRINGTON.  From  Liverpool 

the  right  a  view  is  enjoyed  of  the  Mersey.  572 M*  Garston  (p.  351 ) ; 
121/4  M.  FarniL-orth,  the  junction  of  a  loop-line  to  Widnes. 

I8I/4  M.  Warrington  (Patten  Arms ;  Lion),  a  busy  town  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Mersey,  with  52,742  inhab.  and  manufactories 
of  cotton,  iron,  and  glass.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  antiquity,  and 
is  believed  to  have  been  a  Roman  station.  The  Parish  Church,  a  fine 
building  in  the  Dec.  style,  has  been  restored. ^ —  From  Warrington  rail- 
ways radiate  to  Wigan  (p.  380),  Bolton  (p.  344),  Chester  [p.  273  ),  etc. 

Beyond  Warrington  the  line  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the 
celebrated  Bridgewatek  Caxal  (35  M.  long),  one  of  the  oldest 
in  England,  connecting  Manchester  and  Liverpool. 

The  canal  was  constructed  by  Rrindley  for  the  Duke  of  Bridgewater 
in  lTo8-71.  The  Duke  sank  all  his  capital  in  the  undertaking,  but  ultim- 
ately made  a  large  fortune  by  the  facilities  it  afforded  for  conveying  the 
produce  of  his  large  coal-fields  to  Manchester  and  Liverpool. 

At  (25  M.)  Glazebrook  the  direct  line  to  London  diverges  to  the 
right.  —  34  M.  Manchester  (Central  Station),  see  below. 

c.   From  Liverpool  to  Manchester  via  Atherton. 
37  M.   Lancashibe  and  Yokkshire   Railway  in  ^/t-i^JA  hr.  (fares  5s. 

Qd.,  is.,  It.  6rf:.). 

We  start  from  the  Exchange  Station  (p.  328).  The  district  tra- 
versed is  uninteresting  and  most  of  the  stations  unimportant.  11  M. 
Rain  ford  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Ormskirk  (p.  336)  and  St.  Helen's 
(p.  337).  Near  Wigan  (p.  380),  which  the  Manchester  line  avoids 
by  a  loop,  we  cross  the  main  L.N.W.  line.  A  little  farther  on,  the 
direct  Manchester  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Bolton 
(p.  344).  26  M.  Atherton;  29  M.  WaZ/cden  (  Stock's  Hotel ;  Bulls 
Head);  34  M.  Pendleton;  36  M.  Salford.  —  37  M.  Manchester  (Yic- 
toria  Station),  see  below. 

Manchester.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Central  Station  (PL  E,  5),  at 
the  corner  of  Windmill  St.  and  Lower  Mosley  St.,  for  the  trains  of  the 
Midland  Railway  and  Cheshire  Lines  to  London,  Liverpool,  Chester, 
Buxton.  Matlock,  Derby,  etc.  —  2.  London  Road  Station  (PI.  G,  H,  5),  for 
the  L.N.W.  trains  to  London,  Stafford,  Birmingham,  etc..  and  also  for  the 
Central  Railway  (in  connection  with  the  G.N.R.).  —  3.  Exchange  Station 
(PL  E,  2),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  for  the  L.y.W.  trains  to  Liverpool, 
Leeds,  Chester.  Wales,  and  Scotland,  and  G.  W.  R.  trains  to  Chester  and 
Wales.  —  4.  Victoria  Station  (PL  F,  2j,  adjoining  the  last,  for  the 
Lancashire  and  Yorkshire  lines  to  Liverpool,  Bolton.  Preston,  Oldham, 
York,  Leeds,  Scarborough,  etc.  —  5.  Oxford  Road  Station  (PI.  F,  6j,  for 
trains  to  Altrincham,  etc.  —  In  addition  to  these  stations,  which  are 
connected  with  each  other  by  a  loop-line,  there  are  several  secondary  or 
suburban  stations  at  which  the  trains  generally  stop  before  quitting 
3Ianchester.  The  chief  of  these  is  that  at  Salford  (PL  D,  3j.  —  Single 
cab-fare  (p.  339)  from  the  stations  to  the  hotels. 

Hotels.  -Qceen's  (PI.  a;  G,  4),  2  Piccadilly,  a  long-establisbed  house 
near  the  London  Road  Station,  R.  &  A.  from  45.  6d. ;  XVictoria  (PL  b; 
E,  3|,  Victoria  St.,  K.  &  A.  from  2s.  6c?.,  table- dhote  3s.  Qd.;  'Grand 
(PI.  c;  H,  4),  Aytoun  St.,  with  lift,  R.  &  A.  4s. -5s.  i5d.,  table -dhote  5s., 
'pen.s\  10s.  6rf.-12s.  6d. ;  Grosvenok  (PL  d;  E,3),  Deansgate,  R.  &Afrom4s.; 
Albion  (PI.  ej  G,  3),  21  Piccadillv,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.  6d.;  Clarence  (PI.  f), 


-^r;^  pj^UA<;^^,4^^^  .^1  'I-^^TjtlF/^^^ 


&1^^^"JkKi-^^'^  k  <-"  V^tA%3Av«,; 


to  Manchester.  MANCHESTER.  43.  Route.     339 

Waterloo  (PI.  g),  in  Piccadilly  (6  &  8,  PI.  G,  3,  4);  Moslex  Temperance, 
Piccadilly;  *Rotal  (PI.  m;  F,  3),  2  Mosley  St.;  the  last  six  commercial. 

Restaurants.  Atlantic,  5  Cross  St.  (PI.  E,  3,  4;  entr.  from  Xewmar- 
ket),  for  men  only;  Victoria,  at  fhe  above-named  hotel  (PI.  E,  3l;  Parker, 
18  St.  Mary's  Gate  and  10  St.  Anns  Sq.  (PI.  E,  3);  Prince's  Cafi,  opposite 
Prince's  Theatre  (PI.  E,  5);  Manchester  Limited  Bestaierant  Co.,  under  the 
Exchange  fPl.  E,  3);  Royalty  Ltmcheon  Rooms,  Princess  St.;  *Old  Swan 
(German),  Pool  St.,  Market  St.;  Continental,  Peter  Sq.;  Harrison,  King  St.; 
SmaUmans  Vegetarian  Restaurants,  St.  Anne  St.,  Barton  Arcade,  Deansgate, 
etc.  —  Refreshment  Rooms  at  the  stations. 

Cabs.  Per  mile,  1-2  pers.  2d.,  3-4  pers.  Is.;  for  each  additional  third 
of  a  mile  3d.  or  4d.  By  time,  for  each  1/4  hr.  Gd.  or  7',2^i.  For  each 
article  of  luggage  carried  outside  2c?.  Double  fares  from  midnight  to  7  a.m. 
Complaints  may  be  made  at  the  Town  Hall  (p.  342). 

Tramways.  Manchester  is  covered  with  a  network  of  tramways,  tra- 
versing the  main  streets  and  extending  to  all  the  suburbs  (fares  id. -3d.). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  F,  3),  corner  of  Market  St.  and  Spring 
Gardens.     Numerous  branch-offices  and  pillar  letter-boxes. 

Theatres.  i?oya?  (PI.  E,  5),  Peter  St.,  stalls  6s.,  dress  circle  5s.,  upper 
circle  2s.  6d.,  pit  Is.;  Prince's  (PI.  E,  5),  Oxford  St.;  Comedy  (PI.  E,  4), 
Peter  St..  dress  circle  and  stalls  5s.;  Queen's  (PI.  E,  4),  Bridge  St.,  dress 
circle  2s.,  pit  6d. ;  St.  James's  (PI.  F,  5),  Oxford  St.  —  Palace  Theatre  of 
Varieties,  Oxford  Road,  a  music-hall ;  adm.  l-5s. 

Concerts.  Concert  Hall  (PI.  E,5),  Peter  St.;  Classical  Concerts,  Free  Trade 
Hall  (PI.  E,  4),  every  Thurs.  in  winter;  Manchester  Vocal  Society's  Concerts. 

Popular  Resorts.  "Bellevue  Gardens,  Longsight,  to  the  S.E.,  with 
zoological  collection,  dancing-saloon,  restaurant,  tire-works,  lake  for  boating, 
etc.,  much  frequented  by  the  lower  classes.  They  may  be  reached  by 
tram  or  by  train  from  London  Eoad  to  Longsight.  —  Botanic  Gardens, 
Chester  Road,  Old  Traflford,  to  the  S.W.  —  Circus,  Oxford  St.,  and  Peter  St. 

Baths.  Herriotfs,  9  Stevenson  Sq.,  near  the  Infirmary  (PI.  G, 4);  .4?teof», 
40  Hyde  Road;  Bartholomew.  112  Stockport  Road;  Constantine ,  21  Oxford 
St.  —  Corporation  Baths,  in  Store  St.,  Leaf  St.,  Baker  St.,  and  Osborne  St. 

American  Consul,   W.  F.  G.  Grinnell,  Esq. 

Manchester,  the  chief  industrial  town  of  f^ngland,  and  the  great 
metropolis  of  the  cotton -manufacture,  is  situated  on  the  river 
Irwell,  a  tributary  of  the  Mersey,  in  a  gently  undulating  plain. 
Manchester  proper  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Irwell,  which  here 
receives  two  smaller  streams,  the  Medlock  and  the  Irk ;  but  in 
ordinary  speech  the  name  is  used  to  include  Salford,  on  the  oppo- 
site bank,  which  really  forms  one  town  with  Manchester,  though 
a  distinct  municipality,  returning  its  own  members  to  Parliament. 
In  1891  the  population  of  the  united  city  was  703,479  (Man- 
chester, 505,343;  Salford,  198,136).  The  population  includes  a 
large  German  element,  whose  influence  may  perhaps  be  traced  in  the 
zeal  and  success  with  which  music  is  cultivated  here.  Besides  cotton 
ftoods,  Manchester  also  manufactures  largequantitiesof  silk,  worsted, 
chemicals,  and  machinery.  Its  chief  interest  for  the  stranger  lies  in 
its  huge  manufactories  and  warehouses,  and  in  the  bustling  traffic  of 
its  streets.  Most  of  the  streets  of  the  older  part  of  the  town,  centering 
in  the  Town  llall,  are  narrow,  but  many  improvements  have  recently 
been  effected.  The  suburbs  on  the  other  hand ,  such  as  Cheetham 
Hill,  Brougldon,  Old  Trafford,  and  Fallowfield,  are  generally  well 
laid  out  and  handsomely  built.    Many  of  the  largest  mills  and  fac- 

22* 


340     Route  43.  MANCHESTER.  History. 

tories  are  now  in  the  towns  around  Manchester,  and  the  city  itself 
is  becoming  more  of  an  emporium  and  less  of  an  actual  centre  of 
manufacture.  The  rivers  unfortunately  do  not  add  much  to  the  at- 
tractions of  the  town,  as  their  waters  are  black  with  mill-refuse. 
Since  1847  Manchester  has  been  the  seat  of  a  bishop. 

History.  Manchester  occupies  the  site  of  the  JIancunium  of  the  Eo- 
mans.  In  the  10th  cent,  we  hear  of  Edward  the  Elder  repairing  and  gar- 
risoning the  village  oi  Manigceaster.  and  a  line  of  Xorman  barons  seems 
to  have  derived  their  title  from  this  place.  Towards  the  end  of  the  14th 
cent,  it  was  already  known  as  an  industrial  place  of  some  importance,  the 
manufacture  of  woollen  and  linen  goods  having,  according  to  report,  been 
introduced  by  Flemish  immigrants  in  the  time  of  Edward  III.  Under 
Henry  VIII.  (1509-47)  Manchester  appears  as  the  principal  town  of  Lan- 
cashire, but  its  size  cannot  have  been  very  great,  as  even  in  1720  it  did 
not  contain  10,000  inhabitants.  After  the  middle  of  the  ISth  cent,  its  pro- 
gress began  to  be  more  rapid,  and  the  population  rose  from  20,000  in  1760 
to  94,000  in  ISOi.  The  first  application  of  steam  to  machinery  for  spin- 
ning cotton  was  made  here  in  1789,  and  gave  a  great  impetus  to  the  cotton- 
manufacture.  The  advance  was  aided  by  the  construction  of  the  Bridge- 
water  Canal  (see  p.  33S)  to  Liverpool;  in  1830  the  Manchester  and  Liver- 
pool railway  (see  p.  337)  was  opened;  and  in  1894  a  'Ship  CanaF,  con- 
necting Manchester  with  the  sea  was  opened  for  traffic  (see  p.  344).  In 
1894  the  'Thirlmere  Water  scheme"  (p.  391)  was  completed.  Comp.  W.  E. 
A.  Axon's  'Annals  of  Manchester'"  (1836). 

The  name  Manchester  School  began  to  be  used  some  60  years  ago 
to  designate  the  political  party  that  agitated  for  the  repeal  of  the  corn- 
laws  and  for  the  general  recognition  of  the  principles  of  free  trade. 
The  chief  manufacturing  town  of  England  very  naturally  became  the 
centre  of  the  movement,  and  the  head-office  of  the  Anti-Corn-Law  League 
was  established  in  Xewall  Buildings,  Market  St.  (comp.  p.  348).  Richard 
Cobden,  the  leader  of  the  party,  was  a  partner  in  a  Manchester  firm  of 
cotton-printers,  and  in  1839  the  Manchester  Chamber  of  Commerce,  at 
his  instigation,  opened  the  free-trade  campaign  by  petitioning  Parliament 
against  the  corn-laws.  After  the  triumph  of  the  principles  of  free  trade, 
the  name  Manchester  School  stuck  to  the  political  party  grouped  round 
Cobden  and  Bright,  though  the  city  of  Manchester  was  by  no  means  in- 
variably of  the  same  mind  as  these  politicians.  The  leading  principles 
of  this  "school  may  be  described  as  the  development  of  complete  free- 
dom of  trade  and  unrestricted  competition,  and  the  adhesion  as  far  as 
practicable  to  a  policy  of  non-intervention  in  foreign  afl'airs.  The  ex- 
pression has  become  domiciled  in  several  Continental  states,  where  it  is 
sometimes  used  as  a  term  of  reproach  for  those  who  prefer  peace  and 
material  welfare  to  the  honour  of  their  country. 

'So  traveller  should  quit  Manchester  without  having  seen  one  at  least 
of  its  great  factories.  A  letter  of  introduction  is  desirable;  but  those  who 
have  none  may  send  a  written  request  to  the  head  of  the  firm  whose  estab- 
lishment they  wish  to  inspect.  Among  the  most  interesting  manufactories 
are  the  following:  Armitages  Cotton  Spinning  Mills  at  Pendleton;  Hoyle's 
Printworks,  Mayfield;  Nasmyth's  Bridgewater Foundry  atPatricroft(p. 337)  ; 
Whitworth's  Ordnance  and  Machine  Works  at  Openshaw;  S.  &  J.  Watt's 
Home  Trade  Warehouse,  Portland  St. 

We  begin  our  walks  through  Manchester  at  the  London  Road 
Station  (PI.  G,  H,  5;  p.  3381,  near  which  most  of  the  principal 
hotels  are  situated.  London  Road  is  prolonged  towards  the  N.  by 
Piccadilly  (PI.  G,  4),  one  of  the  chief  streets  of  the  city. 
Here,  to  the  left,  rises  the  Royal  Infirmary  (PI.  G,  4),  a  large 
building  founded  in  1753 ,  but  since  extensively  altered  and  pro- 
vided with  a  handsome  Ionic  portico.    One  wing  was  erected  partly 


Cathedral.  MANCHESTER.  43.  Route.     34 1 

from  the  proceeds  of  a  concert  given  by  Jenny  Liud.  About  20,000 
patients  are  annually  treated  here. 

The  pavement  in  front  is  adorned  with  four  bronze  statues.  To  the 
left  is  the  Duke  of  Wellington  (17G9-1852),  by  Noble,  surrounded  by  four 
allegorical  figures.  —  In  the  centre  are  statues  of  Dalton  (1766-1844), 
founder  of  the  atomic  theory,  and  James  Wait  (1736-1810),  the  inventor  of 
the  steam  engine.  —  To  the  right  is  Sir  Robert  Peel  (1788-1850),  by  Marshall. 

Piccadilly  is  continued  by  Market  Street  [Vl.  E,  F,  3),  the 
main  artery  of  traflic  in  Manchester.  To  the  left,  halfway  down 
the  street,  is  the  Post  Office  (PI.  F,  3).  Market  St.  ends  opposite 
the  Exchange  (Pl.E,  31,  a  massive  structure  in  the  classical  style, 
erected  in  1864-74  by  Mills  and  Murgatroyd,  with  a  Corinthian  por- 
tico, and  a  campanile  180  ft.  high. 

The  Great  Halt,  200  ft.  long  and  190  ft.  wide ,  is  covered  with  a  dome 
80  ft.  high.  On  cotton-market  days  (Tues.  and  Frid.,  1-2)  it  is  crowded 
with  buyers  and  sellers  from  all  parts  of  Lancashire,  and  presents  a  scene 
of  great  bustle  and  apparent  confusion.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  the 
galleries  on  application  to  the  keeper.  —  In  St.  Ann's  Square,  adjoining 
the  Exchange,  is  a  Statue  of  Cobden  (see  p.  340),  by  Wood. 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  proceed  to  the  N.  through  Victoria 
Street  to  (5  min.)  the  Cathedral  (PI.  P^,  2),  situated  in  an  open 
space  facing  the  Irwell.  The  building  is  in  the  Perp.  style  and 
dates  mainly  from  the  early  half  of  the  14th  cent.,  but  restoration 
has  given  it  a  somewhat  modern  aspect.  A  new  N.  porch  was  added 
in  1889,  and  a  muniment-room  and  a  baptistery  have  recently  been 
built.  It  is  the  parish-church  ('towd  church")  for  the  vast  parish 
of  Manchester  and  was  made  collegiate  under  a  warden  and  fellow 
in  the  15th  century.  It  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  cathedral  in 
1847  and  is  one  of  the  smallest  of  English  cathedrals,  being  only 
220  ft.  long  and  112  ft.  broad.  Its  great  comparative  width  is  due 
to  the  fact  that  chapels  have  been  added  on  both  sides  of  the  original 
church  so  as  to  form  double  aisles  (comp.  p.  54).  The  square  tower, 
140  ft.  in  height,  was  rebuilt  in  1864-67.  Part  of  the  exterior  is 
decorated  with  q\iaint  carvings. 

Interior  (adm.  free;  services  at  11  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m.;  on  Sun.  at 
10.30  a.m.,  3.30,  and  7  p.m.).  The  Nave  is  impressive  owing  to  its  unusual 
width,  but  the  Choik  is  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  interior.  Both  have 
flat  timber  ceilings.  The  oaken  Choir  Stalls^  dating  from  about  1505,  are 
finely  carved  (quaint  misereres).  The  stained  glass  is  modern;  one  of 
the  windows  is  a  memorial  to  Gen.  Gordon.  Perhaps  the  most  attractive 
chapel  is  the  Lady  Chapel.,  added  about  1518.  The  outer  N.  aisle  of  the 
choir  (rebuilt)  is  known  as  the  Derby  Chapel.,  and  contains  monuments  to 
members  of  that  family.  Off  this  chapel  opens  the  small  Ely  Chapel.,  with 
the  monument  of  Bishop  Stanley  of  Ely  (d.  1515"),  who  \\  as  Warden  of  Man- 
chester Collegiate  Church  in  1486-1509  and  built  the  beautiful  clerestory  of 
both  nave  and  choir.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  of  the  choir  is  a 
^Statue  of  Humphrey  Chetham  (see  p.  3i3),  by  Theed.  At  the  E.  end  of 
the  S.  choir-aisle  is  the  small  Eraser  Chapel,  erected  in  1887  to  the  memory 
of  Bishop  Eraser  (d.  1885),  of  whom  it  contains  an  efllgy.  To  the  S.  of 
the  choir  is  the  octagonal  Chapter  House. 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  the  Cathedral,  in  Shudehill,  is  Smithfield 
Market  (PI.  G,  2),  which  may  be  visited  on  Saturday  evening,  when 
the  factory  operatives  lay  in  their  supplies    for  the  week.   —  To 


342     Route  43.  MANCHESTER.  New  Town  Hall. 

the  S.  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  Statue  of  Cromwell  (PL  E,  3).  —  To 
the  N.  stands  *Clietham  College  or  Hospital  (PI.  E,  F,  2),  with  a 
Blue  Coat  School  established  hy  Humphrey  Chetham  in  1651,  and 
a  library  of  40,000  vols,  (open  10  to  4,  5,  or  6). 

The  library  is  probably  the  oldest  free  library  in  Europe.  The  build- 
ing itself  (small  gratuity  to  boy  who  acts  as  guide) ,  enclosing  a  quad- 
rangle, dates  from  the  reign  of  Henry  IV.  (1422-61)  and  is  the  most 
ancient  and  interesting  in  Manchester.  It  originally  formed  part  of  the 
collegiate  buildings  attached  to  the  old  church.  The  Dining  Hall  has  a 
dais  and  screen.  The  Library  (with  a  line  carved  oak  buffet  and  some  old 
portraits),  and  the  Dormitories  are  also  interesting. 

The  large  red  building  adjoining  Chetham  College  is  the  Gram- 
mar School,  of  which  De  Quincey  is  the  most  famous  alumnus 
(rebuilt  since  his  time).  Immediately  to  the  N.  are  the  Exchange 
and  Victoria  Stations  (PI.  E,  F,  2),  the  latter  adjoined  by  the 
Workhouse  (PI.  F,  1 ). 

Passing  the  Victoria  Station  and  crossing  New  Bridge  Street,  we 
continue  along  Great  Ducie  Street  to  (6  min.)  the  *Assi2e  Courts 
(PI.  E,  1) ,  an  imposing  Gothic  edifice ,  erected  in  1864  from  the 
designs  of  Waterhouse,  at  a  cost  of  100,000^. 

The  fine  entrance,  on  the  W.  side ,  is  adorned  with  the  statues  of 
eminent  lawgivers ,  that  of  Moses  crowning  the  apex  of  the  gable.  The 
capitals  of  the  columns  in  the  portico  represent  the  judicial  penalties  of 
former  times.  The  slender  pointed  tower  rising  from  the  centre  of  the 
building  is  210  ft.  high.  The  large  central  Ball,  100  ft.  long,  48  ft.  wide, 
and  75  ft.  high,  has  a  window  (at  the  N.  end),  representing  the  signing 
of  Magna  Charta.  —  Behind  the  Assize  Courts  is  the  large  County  Gaol. 

Deansgate  (PI.  E,  3,  4,  5),  one  of  the  busiest  thoroughfares 
in  Manchester,  begins  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Cathedral,  and  ends  at 
Knott  Mill  Station  (Pi.  D,  6) ,  in  the  district  supposed  to  be  the 
exact  site  of  the  Roman  Mancunium  (p.  340).  To  the  right,  nearly 
opposite  John  Dalton  St.,  the  fifth  cross-street  on  the  left,  is  the 
new  Rylands  Library  ,  a  handsome  free  library  presented  to  the 
city  by  Mrs.  John  Rylands  and  containing  the  famous  Althorp 
collection  of  books  (comp.  p.  256).  To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of 
Lloyd  St.  (PL  E,  4),  are  the  School  Board  Offices.  —  John  Dalton 
Street  (PL  E,  4)  leads  to  Albert  Square  (PL  E,  4),  which  is 
embellished  with  statues  of  Prince  Albert  (d.  1861),  by  Noble, 
under  a  Gothic  canopy  by  Northington,  Bishop  Fraser  (d.  1885),  by 
Woolner,  and  Oliver Heywood  (d.  1892),  a  prominent  citizen.  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  *New  Town  Hall  (PL  E,  4),  another 
enormous  and  imposing  Gothic  pile  by  Waterhouse  (see  above), 
erected  in  1868-77  at  a  cost  of  775,000^.  The  clock-tower  is  286  ft. 
high  (*View  from  the  top);  it  contains  a  fine  peal  of  bells  and  a  carillon. 

The  Interior  (adm.  6d.)  contains  250  rooms.  The  great  'Hall,  100  ft. 
in  length,  is  adorned  with  frescoes  of  scenes  from  the  history  of  Manchester 
by  Madox  Brown  (d.  1893),  and  contains  statues  of  Gladstone,  Villiers,  Joule, 
and  Dalton  (p.  311 ;  the  last  by  Chantrey),  and  a  bust  of  Cardinal  Vaughan, 
who  was  Bishop  of  Salford  from  18T2  to  1892.  On  the  roof  are  the  arms 
of  English  towns  and  counties. 

In  King  St.  (PI.  E,  3,  F,  4),  a  little  to  the  N.,  is  the  Free  Reference 
Library  (open  9-10,  on  Sun.  2-9),  occupying  the  old  Town  Hall. 


Owens  College.  MANCHESTER.  43.  Route.      343 

Adjoining  the  Town  Hall  is  the  Memorial  Hall  (PI.  E.  4),  com- 
memorating the  ejection  of  the  Nonconforming  clergy  in  166*2. 

Passing  the  N.  side  of  the  Town  Hall,  through  Princess  St., 
and.  crossing  Cooper  St.,  we  reach  Mosley  St.  (PI.  F,  4),  another 
busy  thoroughfare.  Opposite  us .  at  the  corner  of  Princess  St. ,  is 
the  City  Art  Gallery  (formerly  the  Royal  Institution;  PI.  F,  4), 
a  building  in  the  Greek  style  by  Barry,  with  an  Ionic  portico. 

It  contains  a  collection  of  pictures  and  casts  of  the  Elgin  Marbles  in 
the  British  Museum.  Annual  exhibitions  of  art  are  held  here.  —  Imme- 
diately to  the  N.  is  the  Athenaeum  (PI.  F,  4),  a  kind  of  club  for  young 
bu3iness-men  (quarterly  subscription  6«.  6d.),  with  a  good  library. 

If  we  turn  to  the  right  on  reaching  Mosley  St.  from  Albert 
Square  (p.  342),  we  soon  reach  St.  Peter's  Church  (PL  F,  5), 
containing  an  altarpiece  after  Carracci.  In  Peter  Street,  running 
hence  to  the  W.,  stands  the  *Free  Trade  Hall  (PI.  E,  4),  in  the 
Italian  palatial  style,  by  Walters,  erected  in  1856  on  the  site  of 
the  earlier  edifice  of  the  Anti-Corn-Law  League  (comp.  p.  340). 
The  hall  is  180  ft.  long,  80  ft.  wide,  and  53  ft.  high,  and  can 
accommodate  6000  persons. 

The  ground  on  which  the  original  Free  Trade  Hall  was  erected  was 
the  property  of  Mr.  Cobden ,  and  was  placed  by  him  at  the  disposal  of 
the  League.  On  Aug.  16th,  1819,  it  was  the  scene  of  the  'Massacre  of 
Peterloo",  the  name  given  in  Manchester  to  a  collision  between  the  cavalry 
and  yeomanry  and  the  Manchester  Reformers,  when  several  lives  were  lost. 

To  the  left  of  the  Free  Trade  Hall  are  the  Royal  Theatre  (p.  339) 
and  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association.  Behind  the  Free  Trade 
Hall  is  the  large  new  Central  Station  (PI.  E,  5;  p.  338). 

From  Mosley  St.,  opposite  Peter  St.,  diverges  Oxford  Street 
(PL  F,  6,  6),  a  long  street  leading  S.E.  to  the  suburban  districts  of 
Rusholme,  Fallowfteld,  Cheadle,  etc.  —  It  contains  the  Oxford  Road 
Station  (PL  F,  6;  p.  339),  All  Saints'  Church  iY\.  F,  6),  the  School 
of  Art,  the  Oicens  College  (IV4  M.  from  the  Town  Hall),  the  Eye 
Hospital,  and  the  Rom.  Cath.  Church  of  the  Holy  Name,  with  an 
elaborate  interior.  —  The  *Owens  College,  founded  in  1845  by  John 
Owens,  who  left  100,000i.  for  the  purpose,  was  transferred  to  the 
present  handsome  Gothic  edifice  (by  Waterhouse)  in  1873.  The 
buildings  were  extended  in  1886-87. 

The  college  was  incorporated  by  Act  of  Parliamei\t  in  1874,  and  in 
1880  it  was  constituted  one  of  the  colleges  of  Victoria  University  (see  below). 
It  is  now  attended  by  about  1200  students,  taught  by  about  80  profes- 
sors and  lecturers,  and  includes  a  medical  school  and  faculties  of  arts, 
law,  and  science.  It  possesses  a  good  Library,  well-furnished  Laboraiorus, 
and  a  Collection  of  Natural  Historxj.  Mr.  Stanley  Jevons  (d.  1882)  and  Sir 
Henry  Roscoe  were  professors  at  the  Owens  College. 

Victoria  University,  incorporated  by  Royal  Charter  in  1880  and  em- 
powered to  grant  degrees,  has  its  seat' at  Manchester  and  comprises  at 
present  the  Owens  College,  Liverpool  University  College  (p.  334),  and  the 
Yorkshire  College  at  Leeds  (p.  410). 

The  Manchester  Art  Museum,  in  A7icoats  (to  the  E.  of  PL  H,  4), 
opened  in  1886,  may  be  called  the  Bethnal  Green  Museum  of  Manchester 
(open  free,  week-days  and  Sundays).  The  objects  e.vhibited  are  furnished 
with  explanatory  labels.  Concerts,  lectures,  and  classes  are  also  held  here 
for  the   people  of  the  district. 


344     Route  43.  BOLTON-LE-MOORS. 

Salford  (p.  339),  or  Manchester  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Irwell, 
contains  little  to  Interest  the  stranger.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral (PI.  C,  3),  a  good  building  by  Pugin  the  Elder,  with  a  spire 
240  ft.  high  and  a  fine  W.  front,  is  much  obscured  by  adjoining 
houses. 

To  the  N.W.,  skirted  by  the  Irwell,  lies  Peel  Park  (PI.  A,  2),  a 
public  park ,  prettily  laid  out,  containing  a  museum  and  a  library.  Tlie 
Museum  is  a  large  building  in  the  Renaissance  style,  with  a  fair  cellection 
of  antiquities  and  other  objects  of  interest.  The  Art  Gallery  contains 
modern  paintings  and  sculptures.  The  building  also  includes  the  Salford 
Free  Library.  —  The  Whitworth  Park,  near  Oxford  St.  (beyond  PI.  F,  6), 
24  acres  in  extent,  a  bequest  of  Sir  Joseph  Whitworth,  was  opened  in 
June,  1890.  The  Whitworth  Institute,  in  the  park,  with  a  picture  gallery, 
a  commercial  museum,  etc,  has  been  founded  for  the  promotion  of  the 
fine  arts. 

Manchester  possesses  several  other  public  parks,  some  of  them  of  con- 
siderable size.  Botanic  Gardens,  see  p.  339.  —  "Bellevue  Gardens,  see 
p.  339.  The  celebrated  attempt  to  rescue  Fenian  prisoners  in  1867  was 
made  near  the  old  Bellevue  Prison,  in  the  Hyde  Road. 

The  ''Manchester  Ship  Canal,  one  of  the  boldest  modern  experiments 
in  inland  navigation,  which  is  intended  practically  to  place  Blanchester 
among  the  principal  seaports  of  Great  Britain,  was  opened  for  traffic  on 
Jan.  1st,  18y4.  The  canal,  which  is  3572  M.  long  and  26  ft.  deep,  with  a 
minimum  bottom  width  of  120  ft.,  has  five  locks,  and  cost  15,00O,0J0/.  in- 
stead of  the  estimated  8,000,030z.  It  begins  at  Old  Trafford  (conveniently 
reached  by  tramway  from  Deansgate  to  the  end  of  Trafford  Road)  and 
enters  the  Mersey  at  Eastham  (p.  328).  The  docks  at  the  Manchester  end, 
on  both  sides  of  the  Irwell,  have  an  area  of  110  acres,  and  the  quay- 
frontage  is  53/4  M.  long.  The  locks  and  sluices  at  TraCford  and  other 
points  of  the  canal  are  among  the  most  important  works  of  the  kind  ever 
executed.    Comp.  p.  328. 

Fkom  Manchester  to  Bolton  and  Blackburn,  25  M. ,  Lancashire 
and  Yorkshire  Railway  in  3/4-I1/2  hr.  (fares  4s.  6d.,  25.  6c?.,  2a.  O^lzd.).  — 
10'/2  M.  Bolton-le-Moors  (Swan;  Victoria),  a  prosperous  town  of  115,(XX) 
inhab.,  with  large  cotton-mills,  bleaching  and  dye-works,  engine  factories, 
and  iron-foundries.  Crompton  (1763-1827),  the  inventor  of  the  spinning- 
mule,  resided  at  Bolton  and  is  commemorated  by  a  statue  in  Nelson 
Square.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  (2  M.)  Hall-in-the-Wood,  an  old  timber 
house  where  Crompton  perfected  his  invention,  and  (3  M.)  Smithills  Hall, 
an  interesting  old  manor-house.  —  25  BI.  Blackburn  (Old  Bull),  a  well- 
built  industrial  town  of  120,000  inhab.,  the  staple  products  of  which  are 
cottons,  calico,  and  muslin.  Hargreaves  (d.  1788),  the  inventor  of  the 
spinning-jenny,  was  born  here. 

[From  Blackburn  branch-lines  diverge  on  the  left  to  Preston  (p.  380)  and 
on  the  right  to  Burnley  (p.  345).  The  main  line  goes  on  to  Eellifield  (p.  412), 
via  WJialley  (Whalley  Arms),  with  a  ruined  abbey,  and  Clitheroe  (Swan), 
with  a  ruined  castle.  About  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Whalley  is  the  Jesuit 
college  of  Stonyhursl  (250  pupils),  containing  a  museum  with  some  inter- 
esting historical  relics,  some  line  illuminated  MSS.,  a  Roman  altar,  and 
a  collection  of  paintings.  From  Clitheroe  pleasant  excursions  may  be 
made  in  the  valley  of  the  Ribhle  and  to  the  Hill  of  Pendle,  a  famous 
haunt  of  Lancashire  witches.] 

From  Manchester  to  Bury  and  Bacup.  22  M.,  Lancashire  and  York- 
shire Railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  3«.  4c?.',  25.,  U.  Id).  —  9V2  M.  Bury,  a 
flourishing  manufactui-ing  town  with  57,000  inhab.,  owes  its  prosperity  to 
the  introduction  of  calico-printing  by  the  father  of  Sir  Robert  Peel.  A 
Statue  in  the  town  commemorates  Sir  Robert  Peel  (1783-1850),  who  was 
born  in  the  vicinity.  —  13V2  M.  Eamsboitom,  another  manufacturing  town, 
was  the  residence  of  the  Messrs.  Grant,  the  originals  of  'The  Cheeryble 
Brothers"   in   'Nicholas   Nickleby".     A  line   runs  hence  to  Accrington  and 


ROCHDALE.  43.  Route.     345 


Blackburn.  —  22  31.  Bacup  (23,50U  inhab.)  has  considerable  cottun  and 
woollen  uianufactiire.*. 

Fkum  Manchester  to  Oldham,  8  M.,  railway  in  i/a  br.  (fares  is.,  dd.. 
Id.).  Departure  from  Victoria  Station  (p.  338).  —8M.  Oldham  (Kim/s  Amis  ; 
Black  Swan).,  with  175,500  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  most  important  cotton- 
manufacturing  towns  and  also  contains  large  irun-works.  Over  600  tall 
factory  chimneys  may  be  seen  from  the  top  of  Oldham  Edge. 

Fkom  Manchester  to  Halifax  (Bradford.,  Leeds).,  33  M.,  Lancashire  ii 
Yorkshire  Railway  in  I-IV2  hr.  (fares  5s.  3(f.,  35.  G</..  2s.  S'/zc?.).  Departure 
from  Victoria  Station  (p.  338).  —  SV*  M.  Middleton  Junction.  —  11  M.  Roch- 
dale (Wellington ;  Duckworth^t;  Railway).,  a  town  with  71,500  inhab., 
situated  on  the  Roche.,  is  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  flannel  and 
woollen  industry,  in  which  about  100  mills  are  here  engaged.  It  pos- 
sesses some  interest  in  economical  history  as  the  place  where  the  first 
impulse  was  given  to  the  great  movement  of  co-operation  by  the  form- 
ation, in  1844,  of  the  Society  of  Equitable  Pioneers.,  which  consisted  of  a 
few  mill-hands,  with  a  capital  of  28i.  The  society  now  contains  11,340 
members  and  possesses  a  capital  of  353,470^  Jotm  Bright  (d.  1889)  lived 
and  is  buried  at  Rochdale.  —  19^/2  M.  Todmorden.  whence  a  branch-line 
runs  to  Burnley  (see  p.  344).  29  M.  Sowevhy  Bridge.  —  33  M.  Halifax,  and 
thence  to  (41  M.)  Bradford  ;.nd  (49  M.)  Leeds;  see  p.  411. 

Fruji  Manchester  to  Huddersfield  and  Leeds,  43  M.  ,  L.  N.  W.  R. 
in  IV2-21/4  hrs.  (fares  7s.  ,  4s.  6d.  ,  3s.  Id.).  Departure  from  Exchange 
Station  (p.  338).  —  6V2  M.  Ashton-under-Lyne  (Boars  Head;  Railway), 
a  busy  cotton-spinning  town  with  40,500  inhabitants.  Near  (8  M.)  Staly- 
bridge  (Castle),  a  cotton-spinning  town  with  26,800  inhab.,  the  train 
enters  a  bleak  moorland-district,  and  begins  to  cross  the  ridge  of  lime- 
stone hills  stretching  northwards  from  the  vicinity  of  Derby  (comp.  p.  357) 
to  the  Lake  District  and  the  Scottish  border.  —  Beyond  (IOV2  M.)  Mossley 
we  enter  Yorkshire.  From  (13  M.)  Greenfield  a  short  branch-line  diverges 
to  Oldham  (see  above).  —  14  M.  Saddleworth  (Commercialj,  a  manu- 
facturing town  with  2!2,0(X)  inhab. ,  in  a  bleak  hollow  at  the  foot  of 
some  picturesque  rocks.  Two  railways,  the  road,  the  Huddersfield  Canal., 
and  the  river  Tame  here  all  run  parallel  through  a  deep  valley.  We 
penetrate  the  ridge  by  one  of  the  longest  tunnels  in  England  (3  M.).  — 
26  M.  Huddersfield  (George;  Imperial;  Queen;  Rail  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  one 
of  the  centres  of  the  English  cloth  and  woollen  manufacture,  is  a  well-built 
modern  town  of  95,420  inhab.,  .situated  on  the  Colne ,  on  the  W.  margin 
of  the  limestone  hills.  The  environs  are  pretty,  and  contain  some  Roman 
remains.  —  3OV2  M.  Mirfield  (Rail.  Buffet)  is  the  junction  for  Bradford 
(p.  411),  and  a  little  farther  on,  the  line  to  Wakefield  (p.  409)  diverges  to 
the  right.  33V2  M.  Dewshury  (Royal;  Rail.  Bullet),  a  manufacturing  nlace 
with  29,000  inhab.;  35  M.  Batley.  —  42V2  M.   Leeds,  see  p.  409. 

From  Manchester   to  London    via  Crewe,    189  M.,   railway   in   4*  «- 

5  hrs.  (fares  24s.  6d.,  19s.  kd.,  155.  S'/ad. ;  return  49s.,  40*.,  30s.  lid.).  The 
remarks  made  at  p.  351  as  to  sleeping  -  carriages ,  etc.,  apply  also  to 
Manchester  trains.  —  The  train  starts  from  London  Road  Station  (p.  338), 
and  after  passing  several  small  suburban  stations  crosses  a  gigantic  viaduct 
over   the   valley   of  the   Mersey   and   part   of  the   town    of  Stockport.    -- 

6  M.  Stockport  (George;  Buckley  Arms;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  a  large 
cotton- manufacturing  town  on  the  Mersey,  with  70,250  inhabitants. 
The  huge  Union  Sunday  School  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world  ;  in 
1896  it  had  4834  pupils  and  433  teacheis.  —  8  M.  Cheadle  Hulme  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Macclesfield  (see  below).  —  14  M.  Alderley  Edge 
(Queen's  Hotel),  with  the  house  and  park  of  Lord  Stanley  of  Alderley,  is 
a  favourite  residence  of  wealthy  Manchestrians.  —  At  f31  M.)  Crewe  we  join 
the  through-line  of  the  L.N.W.  Co.  from  Liverpool  to  London  (see  p.  351). 
—  Other  L.N.W.  trains  between  Manchester  and  London  leave  this  line 
at  Cheadle  Hulme  (see  above)  and  proceed  through  the  Potteries  (see  p.  352) 
to  rejoin  the  main  line  at  Norton  Bridge  tp.  353)  or  Colwich  (p.  353l.  The 
principal  intermediate  stations  on  this  route  are  Macclesfield  (i/acc/ej>^"eW 
Arms;  Queens),  an  important  centre  of  the  silk  industry,  with  36,0v)0  in- 


346     Route  4i.  ISLE  OF  MAN.  Routes. 

hab. ;  Gongleton  (to  Hanley  and  Burslem,  see  p.  352):  Stoke-upon- Trent 
p.  352):  and  Stone. 

Feom  Maschestee  to  London  via  Derby,  I9IV2  M.,  railway  in  41/4- 
51/2  bra.  (fares  24s.  6d.,  lOs.  51/2^.;  returns  495.,  30s.  lid.;  cnmp.  p.  356j. 
The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station  (p.  338)  and  proceeds  via  several 
suburban  stations  to  (9  M.j  Stockport  (Tiviot  Dale).,  where  it  unites  with 
the  route  of  the  Midland  Railway  from  Liverpool  (see  p.  356). 

From  Manchester  to  Liverpool.,  see  R.  43 ;  to  Chester,  see  p.  281 ;  to 
London  via  Shefjield,  see  R.  45c;  to  Wigan  (also  accessible  by  the  L.K.W.R. 
from  the  Exchange  Station),  see  p,  338, 

44.  The  Isle  of  Man. 

Steamers  ply  as  follows  to  the  Isle  of  Man  in  summer:  in  winter 
communication  is  less  frequent. 

Fboji  Liverpool.  To  {15  M.)  Douglas,  twice  daily  (oftener  on  Frid. 
and  Sat.)  in  8V2-4V2  hrs.  (fares  5s.  6(7.,  3s.  6c7. 5  return  9s.  6d.,  5s.  %d.).  To 
(85  M.)  Ramsey.  4  or  5  times  weekly  (daily  ia  July  and  Aug.).  in  6  hrs. 
(same  fares). 

From  Barrow  (p.  384).  To  (46  31.)  Douglas.,  daily  in  3  hrs.  (fares  as 
above). 

From  Fleetwood  (p.  381).  To  (63  M.)  Douglas,  daily  in  3  hrs.,  on 
arrival  of  the  2.15  p.m.  train;  to  (73  M.)  Ramsey,  4  times  weekly  via 
Douglas  (fares  as  above). 

From  Silloth  (p.  384)  to  Douglas,  66  M.,  twice  weekly  in  summer 
(on  the  way  to  Dublin;  comp.  p.  384),  calling  at  Whitehaven  (fares  55.,  3s.). 

From  Whitehaven  to  Ramsey,  30  M.,  steamer  fortnightly,  in  2  hrs. 
(thrice  weekly  in  July  and  Aug.;  fare  6s.,  35.;  return  10s.,  5s.). 

From  Glasgow,  Via  Ardrossan  (p.  491),  thrice  weekly  from  end  of 
June  to  middle  of  Sept.,  at  other  seasons  once  weekly  (Wed.)  via  Green- 
ock (p.  497),  to  (130  or  150  M.)  Douglas,  calling  at  Ramsey,  in  8-9  hrs.  (fares 
lis.  M.,  10s.  9(/.,  5s.  9c7.,  return  17s.  6d.,  I65.  6d..  05.;  from  Ardrossan  or 
Greenock,  10s.,  5«..  return  15s.,  7s.  6d.). 

From  Belfast.  To  (65  M.)  Peel,  daily  in  July  and  Aug.  in  4  hrs.  (fares 
5s.  6d..  3s.  6d. ;  return  9s.,  5s,).  To  (90  M.)  Douglas,  calling  at  Ramsey, 
about  once  a  week  (not  in  July  and  Aug.;  fares  65.,  45.;  return  lOs.  6d.,  65.). 

From  Dublin.  To  (94  M.)  Douglas  on  Tues.  &  Frid.  (also  Mon.  &  Wed. 
after   middle   of  July),    in  6-7  hrs.   (fares  65.,  45.;  return  lOs.  6d.,  75.  6d.). 

A  Railway  connects  Ramsey,  Peel,  Douglas,  and  Castletown,  and  extends 
to  Port  St.  Mary  and  Port  Erin,   giving  access  to  most  places  of  interest. 

The  Isle  of  Man,  or  Mann,  is  in  the  Irish  Sea,  "between  Eng- 
land, Scotland,  and  Ireland;  hence  its  heraldic  emblem  (the  three 
legs,  or  triune),  and  its  Manx  name,  Vannin  oxMannin,  signifying 
'middle'.  The  nearest  point  of  the  mainland  (16M,)  is  Burrow  Head, 
Wigtonshire.  The  length  of  the  island  is  ahout  32  M. ,  its  hreadth  ahout 
12  M.,  its  area  220  sq.  M.  More  than  half  of  the  population  (about 
56,600)  are  in  the  four  towns,  Douglas,  Ramsey,  Castletown,  and 
Peel.  The  central  part  of  the  island  is  mountainous  and  beautifully 
diversified;  streams,  flowing  through  narrow  leafy  glens,  with  pre- 
cipitous sides,  form  numberless  cascades.  The  whole  island, 
however,  has  become  practically  one  large  playground  for  the  opera- 
tives of  Lancashire  and  Yorkshire ;  and  their  tastes  have  been  so 
extensively  catered  for,  by  the  erection  of  dancing  saloons  and  the 
like  at  every  point  of  interest,  as  to  seriously  interfere  with  the 
enjoyment  of  the  scenery  for  its  own  sake.  The  hilly  region  ends 
with  the  valley  of  the  Sulby,  to  theN,  of  which  is  a  plain,  unbroken 


History.  ISLE  OF  MAN.  44.  Route.     347 

except  by  low  sand-hills,  and  including  the  Curragh,  once  a  bog  in 
which  the  fossil  e\k  has  been  found.  The  highest  point  is  Snaefell 
(2034  ft.),  the  top  of  which  commands  a  view  of  England,  Ireland, 
and  Scotland.  On  the  S.  coast  are  many  fine  precipitous  cliffs.  The 
water  is  everywhere  clear,  and  the  smooth  sandy  shores  afford  safe 
and  pleasant  bathing.  Good  fishing  is  plentiful  both  in  the  rivers 
(trout)  and  the  sea  (mackerel,  etc.). 

History.  The  early  history  of  the  island  is  so  mythical  as  to  have 
little  value,  especially  as  there  is  no  ancient  Manx  literature.  Its  hero, 
Mannonan  Mac-y-Lheir  (son  of  Lear),  warrior,  legislator,  merchant,  and 
magician ,  is  said  to  have  been  slain  by  St.  Patrick  ,  who  converted  the 
Manx  to  Christianity  (5th  cent.).  After  this  the  island  is  supposed  to 
have  been  under  the  sway  of  a  long  series  of  Welsh  princes,  and  from 
the  10th  to  the  13th  cent,  it  had  Scandinavian  rulers,  many  of  the  local 
names  heing  evidently  of  Xorse  origin.  In  1263  Alexander  III.  of  Scot- 
land subdued  the  island;  but  the  Manx  were  so  oppressed  by  the  Scots, 
that  by  their  desire  Edward  I.  tor)k  it  under  his  protection.  Among  the 
numerous  subsequent  rulers,  or  'Kings',  were  William  Montacute,  Earl 
of  Salisbury,  Sir  William  Scroop,  and  Earl  Percy  (1399).  In  1405  Henry  IV. 
gave  the  kingdom  tu  Sir  John  Stanley,  and  it  remained  with  the  Derby 
lamily  till  1825,  when  the  royal  rights  were  purchased  of  the  Duke  of  Atholl, 
a  descendant  of  the  seventh  earl,  for  416,000/. 

The  political  constitution  of  the  island,  said  to  be  the  oldest  in 
Europe,  is  unique.  The  government  is  A^ested  in  the  Lieutenant  Governor. 
appointed  by  the  Crown;  the  Executive  Council^  including  the  two  'Deem- 
sters' (.judges),  the  Clerk  of  the  Rolls,  the  Receiver-General,  the  Bishop, 
the  Archdeacon,  and  the  Vicar-General :  and  the  Hottse  of  Keys ^  consisting 
of  24  members  elected  by  male  or  female  owners  and  male  occupiers. 
These  three  together  constitute  the  Court  of  Tynwald  (see  p.  349).  Acts 
of  the  British  Parliament  do  not  extend  to  the  Isle  of  Man,  unless  it  is 
specially  named;  and  it  is  exempt  from  all  imperial  taxation.  The  island 
is  divided  for  civil  jurisdiction  into  two  districts,  and  each  of  these  into 
three  'Sheadings'.  The  first  part  of  the  title  of  the  Bishop  of  Sodor  and 
Man  is  derived  from  the  'Sudreys'  (the  Hebrides),  once  included  in  the 
see.  —  The  Manx  language,  resembling  Gaelic,  is  last  dying  out. 

A  good  general  view  of  the  coast  is  alTorded  by  ;i  trip  round  the  is- 
land in  one  of  the  large  steamers  which  leave  Douglas  once  or  twice  a 
v.'oek  during  the  summer,  calling  at  Ramsey  and  making  the  circuit  of 
about  SO  M.  in  li  hours  (lares  3«.,  Is.).  —  I-iving  in  the  Isle  of  Man  is 
cheap  as  compared  with  fashionable  resorts  in  the  S.  The  leading  hotels 
at  Douglas,  Ramsey,  etc.,  are  good;  but  many  of  the  so-called  hotels  at 
the  smaller  points  of  interest  are  merely  wooden  barracks  adapted  only 
for  the  refreshment  of  the  passing  traveller.  —  Man  is  famous  lor  a  breed 
of  tailless  cats.  —  The  best  guide  to  the  island  is  Broun' s  (Isle  of  Man 
Times  Office,  Douglas). 

Douglas.  —  Hotels.  *FoRT  Anne,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  bay;  Villiers, 
close  to  the  pier;  Pevekil,  Grand,  Granville,  Regent  (R.  &  A.  3*.  6d.), 
Atiiol,  Central,  iltxRoruLE,  all  on  the  Esplanade;  Castle  Mona  ;  Doug- 
las Bav.  —  Innumerable  Boarding  Houses  facing  the  sea  (from  5i.). 

Grand  Theatre,  Victoria  St.  —  Dancing  Pavilions.  Derby  Castle.  Fal- 
con Cliff,  Palace,  Belle  Vue,  Pavilion;  variety  entertainments  and  concerts 
in  the  aftermiun;  concerts  of  sacred  music  on  Sun.  at  the  Palace  and 
Pavilion.   —  Victoria  Baths,  Victoria  St.:    Bath  Establishment,    Castle  St. 

Electric  Tramways  to  Laxtij  (p.  348),  and  to  Kerristal.  —  Cable  Tram- 
way from  Victoria  Pier  to  Broadway  (4(/.  up,  2d.  down).  —  Horse  Cars 
from  Victoria  Pier  tu  Derby  Castle  (2d.). 

Golf  Links  at  Port-e-Chee,  1  M.  to  the  N.W.,  and  at  Hoirslrake,  at  the 
N.  end  of  Douglas  Bay.  —   Yachts  for  sailing  excursions. 

Coach  frequently  in  summer  to  Port  Erin  (return-tare  5*.).  Excursion 
Brakes  to  Laxey,  Ramsey,  etc. 


348     Route  44.  DOUGLAS.  The  Isle 

Douglas,  the  capital  of  tlie  island,  with  19,000  inhab.,  lies  on 
a  fine  bay,  with  a  Tou-er  of  Refuge  in  the  middle  of  it.  Handsome 
new  streets  have  displaced  most  of  the  old  town,  and  a  fine  Prom- 
enade skirts  the  shore.  The  Victoria  Pier  is  1400  ft.  long,  the  Iron 
Pier  (adm.  Id.)  1000  ft.,  and  the  Red  Pier  540  ft.  The  huge  Danc- 
ing Pavilions  of  iron  and  glass,  are  conspicuous  features.  The  Castle 
Mona  Hotel  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  dukes  of  AthoU  (see 
p.  347).  Port  Skillion,  at  the  foot  of  Douglas  Head  ,  reached  by 
ferry  across  the  harbour  (id.),  has  excellent  open-air  bathing  for 
gentlemen.  At  Government  House  is  a  small  Collection  of  Local 
Antiquities. 

Walks.  Among  the  most  interesting  points  near  Douglas  are  Douglas 
Head  (view ) ,  the  S.  arm  of  the  hay,  round  which  runs  a  new  Marine 
Drive;  the  Nunnery,  a  modern  but  very  picturesque  mansion,  on  an 
ancient  foundation  (cross  the  bridge  at  the  head  of  the  harbour  and  turn 
to  the  right):  Port  Sodericlc,  3  M.  to  the  S.;  and  (1 1/2  M.)  5radda»,  with  its 
old  and  new  churches  and  Runic  monuments. 

Fko.m  Douglas  to  Laxet,  7  M.,  electric  tramway  in  1/2  br.  (fare 
is.);  also  excursion  brakes  (Is.,  return  I5.  6i/.)-  The  steam-tramway  starts 
from  Derby  Castle  and  runs  along  the  coast,  passing  the  Hoicstrake  Golf 
Links,  Groudle  Glen  (whence  a  miniature  railway  descends  to  the  beach; 
1  M.,  fare  3d.).  Garwick  GUn.  and  the  Cloven  Stones.  71/2  M.  Laxey  is  a 
thriving  mining-village  with  2000  inhab.,  in  a  beautiful  glen.  Its  'Mining 
Wheer,  721/2  ft.  in  diameter  (view  from  the  top-,  fee  3c?.),  is  one  of  the 
'Lions'  of  the  island.  —  From  Laxey  the  electric  tramway  runs  inland  to 
Snaefell  (2034  ft.-,  p.  347),  which  it  ascends  in  a  wide  spiral  carve.  On 
the  (43A  M.)  t(jp  is  a  Hotel  (retm-n-fare  frum  Derby  Castle,  3s.  6c7.). 

Longer  Excdrsioxs.  A  good  glance  at  the  inland  scenery  is  obtained 
by  driving  along  the  'Long  Koad'  and  the  'Short  Road',  together  40  M. 
in  length  (excursion-brakes,  2j.  6d.-4s.  each  pers. ;  6-7  hrs.).  The  route 
leads  by  Braddan  (see  above),  St.  Trinian^s  ruined  chapel,  and  Greeha  to 
(3  31.)  Ballacraine,  where  we  turn  to  the  right  and  ascend  Glen  Mooar, 
passing  the  entrance  to  (10  M.)  Glen  Helen  (p.  349).  To  the  left  is  the  Spooyt 
Vane  Waterfall.  15  M.  Kirk  Michael  (p.  850);  16  M.  Bishopscourt  (the 
episcopal  palace,  mostiv  rebuilt  bv  Bishop  Wilson);  IS  M.  Ballaugh 
(p.  350);  21  M.  Sulhii  (p."  350),  beyond  which,  to  the  right,  are  Lezayre 
Church,  and  Ballakillingan  and  Milntoicn  Parks.,  at  the  foot  of  Skijhill.  We 
then  reach  (24  M.)  Ramsey.,  where  a  stay  of  1-2  hrs.  gives  time  for  a  visit 
to  the  (1  M.)  Albert  Tower  (view).  In  returning  by  fhe  'Short  Road',  we 
skirt  Slieu  Leicaigue  and  pass  (4  M.)  Ballaglass ,  the  (6  M.)  Dhoon  Glens 
(adm.  4d.),  and  (8V'.' M.)  Laxey  (see  above).  We  then  pass  Onchan,  with  its 
curious  church  and  monuments,  and  descend  rapidly  into  (16  M.I  Douglas. 
—  Perhaps  the  finest  route  from  Douglas  to  Ramsey  is  by  the  so-called 
'•Mountains  Drive  (18  M.),  crossing  the  shoulder  of' Snaefell  (p.  347),  an 
ascent  of  which  may  be  combined  with  this  route,  and  descending  through 
Sulby  Glen  (p.  350)  to  Sulby^  where  it  joins  the  above-mentioned  route. — 
The  following  round  is  recommended  to  the  moderate  walker:  walk  from 
Douglas  via  Braddan  (see  above)  to  (2V2  M.)  Union  Mills  (p.  349);  train 
to  St.  John's  (p.  349);  visit  Glen  Helen  (p.  349;  there  and  back  6  M.),  and 
go  on  to  (4  31.)  Glen  Meay  (p.  350j  and  (2i/2  M.)  Peel  (p.  350).  —  Other 
excursions  may  be  made  to  Castletown  (see  below) ,  Port  Erin  (coach,  see 
p.  347),  etc. 

From  Douglas  to  Port  Erin,  16  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares 
'2s.,  is.  Ad.-  no  second  class).  —  31/2  M.  Port  Soderick  (Mount  Mur- 
ray Hotel.  1  M.  from  the  station)  ;  6'/2  M.  Santon;  9  M.  Ballasalla 
( Rushen  Abbey  Hotel),  with  the  ruins  of  Rushen  Abbey,  founded 
in  the  11th  century.  —  IOV2  M.  Castletown  {George,  Union,  un- 


of  Man.  PORT  ERIN.  44.  Route.     349 

pretending)  is  the  ancient  capital  and  seat  of  government  of  the 
island.  Castle  Rushen,  formerly  the  palace  of  the  Kings  of  Man, 
was  until  1890  the  prison  of  the  island  fadm,  Ad.'). 

The  present  building  occupies  the  site  of  a  castle  of  the  10th  cent., 
which  was  besieged  and  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  Robert  Bruce  in 
1313.  Many  mysterious  stories  are  connected  with  some  of  its  unfrequented 
apartments.  The  keep,  banqueting  hall,  and  chapel  formed  the  royal  resi- 
dence; the  late  Rolls  office  was  occupied  by  the  Derby  family.  The  glacis 
was  constructed  by  Card.  Wolsey  while  he  held  the  island  as  trustee 
for  one  of  the  Stanleys,  then  a  minor.  From  the  castle-tower,  Snowdon, 
Anglesey,  the  Mriurne  Mountains,  and  parts  of  Cumberland  are  visible.  The 
clock  in  the  S.  tower  was  given  by  Queen  Elizabeth  and  is  still  going.  — 
In  the  market-place  are  an  antique  Sun  Dial  and  a  monument  to  Governor 
Smelt  (1833).  King  William's  College,  an  excellent  school  of  over  2i,i0  boys, 
contains  a  collection  of  local  fossils.  Xear  the  college  is  Hango  Hill,  where 
William  Christian  (Illiam  Dhone)  was  executed  in  1602  as  a  traitor  to  the 
6th  Earl  of  Derby  (then  King  of  the  Island).  On  the  isthmus  between 
Castletown  and  Derby  Haven,  1  M.  from  the  statii»n,  are  the  Castletoicn  Golf 
Links  (Golf  Links  Hotel,  6s.  6(7.  per  day).  —  Excursions  may  be  made  to 
Derby  Haven,  on  the  curious  peninsula  of  Langness;  to  (l'/2  M.)  Malew 
Church,  with  some  curious  relics;  and  to  Rushen  Abbey  (see  p.  348). 

11 V2  M.  Ballabeg;  13  M.  Colby.  —  15  M.  Port  St.  Mary  (Cliff 
Hotel),  a  pleasant  little  fishing  port,  now  aspiring  to  be  a  seaside 
resort. 

Walkers  are  advised  to  quit  the  train  here  and  go  by  the  Chasms  to 
Port  Erin  (2-21/2  hrs.).  We  follow  the  road  (soon  becoming  a  cart-track) 
which  leads  to  the  right,  opposite  the  Cumberland  Inn,  near  the  harbour. 
5  min.  Fisiard.  At  (7  min.)  a  gate  the  track  bends  to  the  right;  0  min.  Gate; 
4  min.  Gate,  beyond  which  is  the  house  where  we  pay  (2d.)  for  admission 
to  the  enclosure  containing  the  ^Chasms,  fissures  resembling  those  men- 
tioned at  p.  212.  We  now  follow  the  cliffs  as  closely  as  possible  to  (1  M.) 
*Spanish  Head,  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Calf  of  Man.  From  Spanish 
Head  we  can  either  keep  on  round  the  coast,  or  shorten  the  walk  by 
striking  inland  to  Cregneesh  and  following  a  track  across  the  Mull  Hills 
to  (I  M.)  Port  Erin  (see  below). 

16  M.  Port  Erin  {Vdall's;  Falcon's  Nest;  lodgings),  a  very  pic- 
turesque little  watering-place,  at  the  head  of  a  narrow  and  deep 
hay,  the  mouth  of  which  is  partly  protected  hy  the  striking  ruins 
of  a  huge  breakwater,  destroyed  by  a  storm.  The  N.  arm  of  the  bay 
is  formed  by  the  lofty  '"^Bradda  Head,  surmounted  by  a  view-tower. 

Port  Erin  and  Port  St.  Mary  are  good  starting-points  for  visits  by 
boat  (experienced  boatman  necessary)  to  some  of  the  grandest  coast  scenery, 
the  Calf  of  Man,  the  Chickens  Lighthouse,  etc. 

From  Douglas  to  Peel,  12  M.,  railway  in  -^4  hr.  (fares  is. 
6d.,  li.).  —  21/2  M.  Union  Mills,  1  M.  from  Braddan  (p.  348); 
572  M.  Crosby.  To  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  Oreeba,  lies  St.  Trinian's 
{  p.  348).  Greeba  Castle  is  the  residence  of  Mr.  Hall  Caine.  —  9  M. 
St.  John's,  the  junction  for  the  Manx  Northern  Railway  from  Fox- 
dale  (to  the  S.)  to  Ramsey  (to  the  N. ).  A  little  to  the  right  (N.)  of 
the  station  is  the  Tynwald  Hill,  a  circular  mound  thrown  up  in  very 
remote  times  for  legislative  meetings;  and  here  all  new  Manx  laws 
are  promulgated  on  July  5th. 

About  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  J^t.  John's  (comp.  p.  348)  is  the  entrance 
(^Sicisa  Cottage  Hotel,  D.  \s.  fid.)  to  *Glen  Helen  (adm.  fid.) ,  one  of  the 
prettiest  little  valleys  in  the  island,   with    the  (I  M.)  Ehenass  Falls.  —  In, 


350     Route  44.  RAMSEY. 

the  opposite  direction  lies  (4  M.)  Glen  Meoy  (adm.  4c?.),  another  small 
glen  with  a  waterfall,  opening  to  the  sea,  whence  we  may  go  on  to  (3  M.) 
Peel  (comp.  p.  348). 

12  M.  Peel  (Creg  Malin,  on  the  shore;  Peel  Castle)  is  a  small 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neb,  with  4000  inhab.,  engaged  in 
fishing,  boat-building,  and  net,  sail,  and  rope  making. 

Peel  Castle  (adm.  3d.),  dating  in  its  present  form  mainly  from  the 
loth  cent.,  is  a  picturesque  ruin ,  to  which  much  historic  and  legendary 
interest  attaches.  It  lies  on  St.  Patrick''s  Isle,  connected  with  the  main- 
land by  a  causeway  (ferry  across  the  harbour  id.).  'Fenella's  Tower'  is 
pointed  out  as  the  scene  ofFenellas  escape  in  Scotfs  'Peveril  of  Ihe  Peak\ 
The  Round  Toicer  (50  ft.  high)  in  the  centre  of  the  enclosure  is  of  uncer- 
tain origin.  The  oldest  part  of  the  ruined  Cathedral.,  also  within  Ihe 
castle  enclosure,  is  the  choir  (1226-47). 

On  the  White  Strand  (1  M.  to  the  W.)  fossil  pebbles  are  found.  On 
Peet  Hill  (450  ft.),  a  high  tower,  termed  Corrin''s  Folly^  was  built  by  a 
Nonconformist  of  that  name,  as  a  burial-place;  it  affords  a  good  general 
view  of  the  town  and  castle. 

From  Douglas  to  Ramsey,  26  M.,  railway  in  11/2-1^  i^r.  (fares 
3s.  4d.,  2.?.  2(i.).  From  Douglas  to  (9  M.)  St.  John's^  see  p.  349. 
11  M.  Peel  Road;  12  M.  St.  Germains.  —  16  M.  Kirk  Michael  (Mitre; 
Northern  Railway) ,  the  churchyard  of  which  contains  several  in- 
teresting Runic  monuments.  A  little  farther  on  Bishopscourt 
(p.  348)  is  passed  on  the  right.  —  19  M.  Ballaugh ,  near  the 
Curragh  (p.  348).  —  21  M.  Sulby  Glen  (Hotel). 

This  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  *Sulby  Glen,  a  wider  and 
more  open  valley  than  most  of  the  Manx  glens,  somewhat  recalling  parts 
of  the  Highlands.  A  walk  of  3^/2  M.  from  the  station  along  the  road 
through  the  valley  brings  us  to  the  Tholt-e-Will  Hotel.,  in  the  grounds  of  which 
(adm.  4d.)  are  the  Alt  and  the  Tholt-e-Will  Falls  (the  latter  insignificant). 
Tholt-e-Will  lies  near  the  N.W.  base  of  Snaefell  (p.  347),  which  may  be 
easily  ascended  hence.  —  From  this  point  we  mav  reach  Eamsey  via  Glen 
Auldyn.,  to  the  N.E.  of  Snaefell. 

22  M.  Sulhy  Bridge;  24  M.  Lezayre.  —  26  M.  Ramsey  [Queen's, 
Albert,  Prince  of  Wales^  on  the  Esplanade;  Mitre,  in  the  town; 
Old  Swan,  unpretending;  lodgings),  a  small  town  with  4500  inhab., 
is  situated  on  the  N.E.  coast  of  the  island,  in  the  middle  of  a  still 
finer  bay  than  that  of  Douglas.  The  sandy  beach  affords  excellent 
bathing,  and  there  are  a  Promenade,  a  Pier  (2200  ft.  long),  and 
Golf  Links. 

The  environs  are  pretty,  and  pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  to  (1  M.) 
the  Albert  Tower,  and  to  (iV2  hr.)  A^'orth  Barrule  (1850  ft.),  and  thence 
along  the  ridge  to  (4  M.)  Snaefell  (p.  347).  To  the  JS.  of  the  town  the  shore 
is  rocky,  and  at  low  tide  we  may  follow  it  to  Port  Lewaigue  (pronounced 
league)  and  other  rocky  little  creeks  at  the  foot  of  Maughold  Head.  On 
the  hill  is  Kirk  Maughold,  with  a  very  curious  church  and  monuments. 
One  of  the  favourite  excursions  is  that  to  Sidbt/  Glen  (see  above),  with 
which  may  be  combined  Glen  Auldyn  (see  above).  —  The  Ballaglass  Falls 
and  Ballure  Glen  are  also  picturesque.  —  On  a  drive  to  (7V2  M.)  the  Point 
of  Ayre,  the  K.  extremity  of  the  island  (fine  sea  view),  we  pass  (41/2  M.) 
Kirk  Bride.  The  return  may  be  made  by  Andreas,  with  a  very  lofty 
church-tower  and  some  Runic  monuments.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
village  is  the  old  fort  of  Ballachurry,  a  grassy  mound  of  unknown  date. 
—  Beyond  the  Point  of  Ayre,  the  coast  is  lined  with  high  sandy  'Broughs', 
which  extend  far  down  the  W.  side  of  the  island. 


351 


45.   From  Liverpool  to  London. 


The  traveller  from  Liverpool  to  London  has  a  choice  of  the  lines  of 
four  different  companies.  The  most  diject  route  is  by  the  London  &.  North 
Western  Railway  to  Enston  Square,  via  Crewe  and  Rugby.  The  route  of 
the  Midland  Railicay  (to  St.  Pancras)  passes  Matlock,  Derby,  Leicester,  and 
Bedford,  traversing  the  beautiful  Derbyshire  Peak  (R.  46)'.  The  trains  of 
the  Great  Northern  Railicay,  to  Kings  Cross,  run  by  Manchester,  Shef- 
field, Retford,  Grantham,  and  Peterborough.  The  Great  ^y ester n  Raihi: ay 
to  Paddingfon  passes  Chester,  Shrewsbury,  Birmingham,  Warwick  (Strat- 
ford on-Avon).  and  Oxford.  Tlie  fares  are  the  same  on  all  the  lines  (29*., 
20«.  8(i.,  16*.  6d. ;  no  second  class  on  the  Midland  and  Great  Northern 
Railways).  The  time  occupied  by  the  fast  trains  (4i/2  5  hrs.)  is  about  the 
same  on  each  route.  Drawing-rrom  carriages  are  attached  to  the  principal 
day-expresses  (no  extra  charge),  dining-saloons  to  those  in  the  alternnon, 
and  sleeping-cars  to  the  ni^ht-trains  (berth  5-6«.  extra).  On  arrival  pas- 
sengers need  nut  leave  the  last  until  convenient.  —  The  journey  may  be 
broken  at  any  of  the  intermediate  stopping-places.  Luncheon-baskets  may 
be  obtained  at  the  London  and  other  chief  stations;  and  hot  luncheons  may 
be  ordered  in  advance  through  the  guard  (charge  35.,  including  wine  or  beer). 

a.  From  Liverpool  to  London  vifi,  Crewe  and  Rugby. 

202  M.  London  &  North  Westeen  Railway  (Euston  Square)  in  4V3-T 
hrs.  (fares,  see  above).  Passengers  to  or  from  America  are  conveyed  in 
special  vestibuled  trains  running  between  the  Riverside  Station  at  Liver- 
pool (see  p.  329)  and  Eu-ston  Square  in  London  in  4  hrs.,  in  connection  with 
the  Atlantic  steamers. 

The  train  starts  at  Lime  Street  Station  (p.  328)  and  passes 
through  deep  cuttings  in  the  red  sandstone.  1  M.  Edgehill;  V/2  M, 
Wavertree,  with  the  lofty  campanile  of  its  church  to  the  right.  The 
large  church  at  Sefton  Park  (p.  334)  is  visible  on  the  same  side. 
From  (4  M.)  Allerton  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Garston,  a  town  on 
the  Mersey  with  13,444  inhabitants.  Beyond  (^872  M.)  Ditton,  junc- 
tion of  a  line  to  Warrington  (p.  338),  the  train  crosses  the  Mersey 
by  a  long  iron  viaduct.  16  M.  Runcorn  (p.  337);  18  M.  Sutton 
Weaver.  We  now  cross  the  Weaver.  From  (22  M.)  Acton  Bridge,  on 
the  main  L.N.W.  line,  a  branch  diverges  to  (41/9  M.)  Northwich 
(p.  281).  '       ' 

We  now  traverse  the  fettile  district  which  produces  the  famous 
Cheshire  cheese.  Beyond  (32  M.)  Hartford  the  line  passes  through 
the  smiling  Vale  Royal,  watered  by  the  Weaver.  To  the  right 
is  the  manor-house  of  Vale  Royal,  the  seat  of  Lord  Delamere.  The 
hills  of  Wales  are  visible  to  the  right. 

431/2  ^i-  Crewe  (*Crexve  Arms,  connected  with  the  station  by  a 
covered  passage ;  Royal;  Railway  Rf mi.  Rooms),  a  town  of  28,761 
inhab.,  is  the  seat  of  the  railway-works  of  the  L.N.W.R.,  which 
employ  7000  men.  A  Public  Park  was  opened  in  1888.  Crewe  is  also 
an  important  railway-junction,  500  trains  passing  through  it  daily. 

Crewe  Uall,  a  modern  Jacobean  mansion  by  Barry,  is  a  reproduction 
of  the  original  building  by  Inigo  Jones,  which  was  burned  down  in  1866. 

From  Crewe  to  Chester,  31  M.,  railwav  in  i/z-l  hr.  (fares  35.  Sd.,  2s., 
1*.  9d.).  9  M.  Beeston  Castle  (Tollemache  "Arms),  see  p.  281.  —  31  M. 
Chester,  see  p.  273. 

From    Crewe   to  Uttoxetek,    32  M.,    North  StafTordshire   Railway  in 


352     Route  45.  STOKE-UPON-TRENT.     From  Liverpool 

1 1/2-2  hrs.  (fares  65.  Sd.,  Ss.  3d.,  2s.  Id.).  This  line  takes  us  through  the 
heart  of  the  Potteries,  a  busy  manufacturing  district  in  the  N.W.  of 
Staffordshire,  where  the  celebrated  English  earthenware  and  porcelain  are 
made.  This  district  occupies  the  upper  valley  of  the  Trent  for  a  distance 
of  about  10  M.,  and  is  rich  in  iron  and  coal;  but  most  of  the  clay  and 
other  materials  used  in  the  manufacture  of  pottery  is  brought  from  a 
distance.  The  towns  and  villages  it  contains  have  gradually  increased  to 
such  an  extent  that  the  district  may  now  almost  be  described  as  one 
large  and  scattered  town,  with  upwards  of  300,000  inhabitants.  In  every 
direction  rise  chimneys,  furnaces,  warehouses,  and  drying-houses.  The 
importance  of  this  industry  is  in  great  measure  owing  to  the  enterprise 
oi  Josiah  Wedgwood  (1730-1795),  a  native  of  Burslem  (see  below),  who 
established  his  works  at  Etruria  (see  below).  Minton  and  Copeland  also 
did  much  to  promote  this  industry. 

13^4  M.  Etruria,  a  village  named  from  the  erroneous  belief  that  the 
ancient  vases  copied  by  Wedgwood  (round  whose  pottery-works  it  sprang 
lip)  had  been  found  in  Etrui-ia.  —  15  M.  Stoke-upon- Trent  (^Railway; 
Wheatsheaf;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  a  town  with  24,027  inhab..  is  a 
busy  railway  junction  and  a  chief  seat  of  the  pottery -manufacture.  In 
front  of  the  large  station  are  statues  of  Wedgwood  (d.  1795)  and  Minton 
(d.  1836;  see  above).  A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  show-rooms  of  Minton 
or  Copeland.  —  A  line  runs  to  the  N.  from  Stoke  via  (4  M.)  Hanlev,  with 
54,846  inhab.,  the  'Metropolis  of  the  Potteries\  and  (6  M.)  ^Mr^Zem" (30,862 
inhab.)  to  (12  M.)  Congleton  (p.  346).  At  Burslem  is  the  Wedgwood  Institute., 
containing  a  school  of  art  and  a  museum ;  it  is  elaborately  adorned  with 
porcelain  plaques  and  friezes. 

26  M.  Leigh .  the  church  of  which  has  a  14th  cent,  tower.  —  32  31. 
Uttoxeter  (White  Hart;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  pronounced  Uxeier,  the 
birthplace  of  Mary  Howitt  (1805-88).  is  a  pleasant  little  town  of  5600  in- 
habitants. It  was  at  Uttoxeter  market  that  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson's  father 
kept  the  book-stall,  at  which  his  son  on  one  occasion  refused  to  take  his 
place.  Many  years  later  he  did  penance  for  his  disobedience  by  going  to 
Uttoxeter  in  very  bad  weather,  and  standing  for  a  considerable  time 
bareheaded  in  the  rain,  on  the  spot  where  his  father's  stall  used  to  stand. 
—  From  Uttoxeter  to  Burton  and  to  Derby,  see  pp.  190,  380. 

From  Uttoxeter  to  Macclesfield,  33  M.,  railway  in  H/s  hr.  (fares 
bs.  bd.,  Ss.  5(7..  2s.  S'^i'zd).  This  picturesque  route  is  known  as  the  'Churnet 
Valley  Line\  —  4V2  M.  RoKster  (Rail.  Refreshment  Rooms)  is  the  junction 
for  Ashbourne  (p.  3S0).  Near  (8  M.)  Alton  is  *Alton  Towers,  the  pictur- 
esque seat  of  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury.  Its  splendid  collections  have  been 
to  a  great  extent  dispersed  and  the  house  is  seldom  shown;  but  the  beau- 
tiful grounds  (adm.  I5.)  well  deserve  a  visit.  About  2M.  to  the  S.  of  Alton 
are  the  ruins  of  Croxden  Abbey  (13th  cent.).  —  19  M.  Leek  (George),  a  silk- 
making  town  (14.200  inhab.),  has  a  fine  church  and,  an  art -gallery.  The 
churchyard  contains  several  interesting  tombstones  and.  at  the  summer 
solstice,  affords  a  view  of  a  carious  phenomenon,  the  sun  appearing  to  set 
twice  on  the  same  day  behind  a  hill  to  the  W.  of  the  town.  To  the  N.  of 
Leek  are  (1  M.)  the  rnins  oi  Diei/lacresse  Abbep  (founded  1214),  incorporated 
in  a  farm-house.  —  From  ('21  31  )  Rudyard  (Rudyard  Hotel),  on  the  banks 
of  an  artilicial  lake  2V4  31.  in  length,  or  from  (24  31  )  Ruston  interesting 
excursions  may  be  made  to  Winkle  and  Sicylhamley.  —  28  31.  Xorth  Rode, 
on  the  line  from  3Iacclesfield  to  Congleton  (p.  346).  The  church  of  Gaws- 
worth,  2  31.  to  the  X..  contains  some  interesting  tombs  of  the  Fitton  family, 
the  ancient  proprietors  of  Gawsworth  Old  Hall,  a  timber -built  mansion 
close  by.     33  31.  Macclesfield,  see  p.  345. 

From  Crewe  to  Whitchurch,  13  M.,  railwav  in  20-40  min.  (2«.  6d., 
U.  4d.,  U.  2d.).  —  9  31.  Nantwich  a412  inhab.).   13  M.  Whitchurch,  see  p.  271. 

From  Crewe  to  Manchester,  see  p.  345. 

On  leaving  Crewe  we  have  a  view  of  the  tower  of  Crewe  Hall 
(p.  351).  among  trees,  to  the  left.  Beyond  (^52V2  ^0  Madeley 
we  cross  the  line  from  Wellington  to  New  castle-under- Lyme,  a  town 


to  London.  STAFFORD.  45.  Route.     353 

with  18,452  inhab.,  in  the  Potteries  (see  p.  352).  —  63'/2  M-  Norton 
Bridge  (Railway  Hotel),  junction  of  a  line  to  Stone  and  Stoke  (comp. 
p.  345).  —  We  now  pass  Stafford  Castle  (see  below)  on  the  right. 

681/2  M.  Stafford  (North  Western-,  Swan;  Vine;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms)^  the  county-town  of  Staffordshire,  with  20,270  inhab.,  situ- 
ated on  the  Sow^  3  M.  above  its  junction  with  the  Trent.  It  carries 
on  an  extensive  manufacture  of  boots  and  shoes.  Near  the  station, 
but  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  St.  Mary's  Church,  a  handsome 
cruciform  edifice,  with  an  octangular  tower  and  a  late-Norman  nave 
(1189).  It  contains  a  few  old  monuments.  Close  by,  at  the  corner 
of  Greengate,  is  the  picturesque  old  High  House.  Nearly  opposite 
the  High  House  is  St.  Chad's  ,  a  restored  Norman  church.  The 
Borough  Hall  J  in  Eastgate,  contains  the  Wragge  Museum,  and  a 
collection  of  old  books  and  MSS.,  presented  by  Mrs.  Salt.  Izaak 
Walton  (1593-1683)  was  a  native  of  Stafford. 

About  li'i!  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  on  the  Newport  Road  (pass- 
ing the  back  of  the  station) ,  is  Stafford  Castle ,  a  square  building  with 
towers  at  the  corners,  finely  situated  on  a  hill  commanding  an  extensive 
view.  It  belongs  to  Lord  Stafford,  but  is  now  untenanted,  except  by  the 
keeper  (visitors  admitted).     Part  of  the  old  Norman  keep  is  extant. 

From  Stafford  to  Shrewsbury,  29  31.,  railway  in  3/4-I1/4  hr.  (fares 
.55.  2d.,  3s.  id.,  2s.  b^jzd.).  Near  (11  M.)  Newport  (Shakespeare),  with  a  fine 
15th  cent,  church,  are  Aqualate  Hall,  with  a  small  lake,  and  Chettcynd 
Park.  —  19  M.    Wellington,  and    thence   to  (29  M.)  Shrewsbury,   sje  p.  '^65. 

From  Stafford  to  Uttoxeter,  15  M.,  railway  in  3/4  hr.  (fares  2s., 
Is.  8d.,  Is.  3d.).  Near  (51/2  M.)  Jnge^re  is  Ingestre  Park,  the  seat  of  the 
Earl  of  Shrewsbury.  At  (11  M.)  Chartley  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  oastle  of 
that  name  and  another  fine  park,  containing  wild  white  cattle.  At  Chartley 
Hall  is  shown  a  room  in  which  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  was  imprisoned 
for  some  time.  —  15  M.   Uttoxeter,  see  p.  352. 

From  Stafford  to  Wolverhampton,  15  M.,  railway  in  25-40  minutes. 
Wolverhampton,  and  thence  to  Birmingham,  see  pp.  264,  263. 

Beyond  Stafford  the  line  turns  to  the  left  (E.).  To  the  left  lie 
Ingestre  Hall  and  Park  (see  above).  From  (75  M.)  Colwich  (Stafford 
Arms),  with  a  Dec.  church  (to  the  right),  a  line  runs  N.W.  to 
Stone.,  where  it  unites  with  the  line  from  Norton  Bridge  to  Stoke 
(see  above).  This  is  sometimes  used  as  an  alternative  route  by 
the  Manchester  express-trains.  About  1  M.  to  the  E.  is  Shugborough 
Park,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Lichfield  and  birthplace  of  Anson 
(1697-1762),  the  voyager.  Wolseley  Hall  and  Park  are  also  visible 
to  the  right.  The  train  follows  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Trent.  — 
From  (79  M.)  Rugeley  Junction  a  branch  runs  to  Rugeley  (Shrews- 
bury Arms),  the  square  church-towers  of  which  are  seen  to  the  right, 
and  Walsall  (p.  263).  Near  (81  M.)  Armitage  we  leave  the  Trent, 
which  here  turns  to  the  N.  To  the  right  are  Beaudesert  Park,  the 
seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesey,  and  the  hilly  district  called  Can- 
nock Chase,  formerly  a  royal  forest,  and  now  an  important  mining 
region  (coal  and  iron).  As  we  approach  Lichfield  we  have  a  view 
of  its  graceful  cathedral-spires  to  the  right.  The  L.N.W.  Trent 
Valley  Station  is  I1/2  M.  from  the  town  (omn.  Qd.). 

86  M.  Lichfield  {*George,  the  scene  of  Farquhar's  'Beaux'  Stra- 
Baedeker's  Great  Britain.   4th  Edit.  23 


354     Route  45.  LICHFIELD.  From  Liverpool 

tagem',  St.  John  St.,  R.  &  A.  4s.-,  Swan;  Anglesey,  unpretending), 
pleasantly  situated  on  an  arm  of  the  Trent,  is  a  small  town  with 
7864  inhah. ,  a  fine  cathedral ,  and  many  interesting  associations 
with  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  who  was  born  here  in  1709. 

The  house  in  which  Johnson  was  horn  is  at  the  corner  of  the 
Market  Place  (reached  from  St.  John  St.  hy  Bore  Street ,  opposite 
the  Clock  Tower)  and  Sadler  Street ,  and  is  recognisable  by  the 
memorial  tablet  and  by  the  three  painted  pillars  in  front.  Opposite 
is  the  Church  of  St.  Mary,  with  a  tall  spire,  the  register  of  which 
contains  an  entry  of  Johnson's  baptism.  The  market-place  contains 
a  colossal  Statue  of  Johnson,  erected  in  1838,  with  bas-reliefs  of 
scenes  from  his  life  on  the  pedestal.  Johnson's  father  and  mother 
are  buried  in  the  Church  of  St.  Michael,  to  the  E.  of  the  town, 
where  their  tombs  are  marked  by  epitaphs  composed  by  their  son 
(in  the  central  aisle).  The  free  Grammar  School,  attended  by 
Johnson,  Addison,  and  Garrick,  was  rebuilt  about  1850.  The  site 
of  the  Infant  School  attended  by  Johnson  is  marked  by  a  tablet. 
The  old  Three  Crowns  Inn,  in  the  market-place,  entertained  John- 
son and  Boswell  when  they  visited  Lichfield  in  1776,  and  here 
Johnson  expatiated  in  praise  of  Lichfield  and  its  inhabitants,  who, 
he  said,  were  'the  most  sober,  decent  people  in  England,  the  gen- 
teelest  in  proportion  to  their  wealth,  and  spoke  the  purest  English'. 

Lichfield  was  also  the  birthplace  oi  Elias  Afhmole  (1617-92:  p.  233), 
the  residence  of  Dr.  Erasmus  Darwin  (1731-1S02)  and  the  early  home  of 
David  Garrick  (b.  1717  at  Hereford),  facts  now  commemorated  by  tablets 
on  the  appropriate  houses.  In  the  ISth  cent.  Lichfield  was  the  home  of  a 
well-known  literary  coterie,  including  Anna  Seward,  the  'Swan  of  Lich- 
field", whose  father  was  a  canon  of  the  cathedral ;  Richard  L.  Edgeicorth 
(father  of  Maria  Edgeworth)  and  the  beautiful  Honora  Sneyd,  afterwards 
his  wife;  Thomas  Day  (author  of  'Sandford  and  Merton');  and  for  a  short 
period,  ilujor  John  Andri. 

The  *  Cathedral,  a  building  of  red  sandstone,  dedicated  to 
St.  Chad  (d.  672),  the  patron-saint  of  Lichfield,  and  situated 
in  a  small  but  picturesque  close  at  the  N.  end  of  the  main  line 
of  streets,  dates  mainly  from  the  13-14th  centuries. 

The  diocese  of  Lichfield  was  formerly  of  immense  size,  having  been 
at  first  conterminous  with  the  kingdom  of  Mercia ,  and  no  fewer  than 
twelve  other  modern  sees  once  lay  wholly  or  in  part  within  its  borders. 
At  the  end  of  the  eighth  century  the  bishop  of  Lichfield  bore  for  a  short 
time  the  archiepiscopal  title.  —  The  first  cathedral,  built  in  the  7th  cent., 
was  perhaps  on  the  site  of  the  present  church  of  St.  Chad  (p.  355);  but  the 
earliest  building  on  the  present  site  was  a  Norman  church  dating  from 
about  1100.  The  oldest  part  of  the  existing  building  is  the  lower  part 
of  the  W.  half  of  the  choir,  erected  about  1200;  the  transepts  followed 
in  1220-40;  the  nave  dates  from  about  1250,  and  the  W.  front  from  about 
1280;  while  the  lady-chapel  and  presbytery  belong  to  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  century.  The  cathedral-close  was  formerly  surrounded  by  a  wall 
and  moat,  and  in  1643  the  cathedral  was  defended  against  the  Puritans, 
who  battered  down  the  central  tower  and  demolished  many  carvings, 
monuments,  and  windows.     It  was,  however,  soon  restored. 

Lichfield  Cathedral  is  sometimes  styled  the  'Queen  of  English  Minsters"', 
and  though  surpassed  by  other  cathedrals  in  age,  size,  grandeur  of  site,  and 
elaborate  decoration,  it  has  yet  a  good  claim  to  the  title  in  the  exquisite 
symmetry,  proportion,  and  picturesqueness  of  its  general  effect.    The  most 


to  London.  LICHFIELD.  45.  Route.     355 

conspicuous  external  features  are  the  three  beautiful  spires  and  tlie  line 
W.  facade.  The  central  steeple  (by  Wren)  is  260  ft.,  and  those  at  the  W. 
end  each  190  ft.  high.  The  *Tr.  Far.ade,  dating  from  ahout  1280,  is  one  of 
the  most  graceful  and  harmonious  in  England-,  and  it  has  an  advantage 
over  such  a  front  as  that  of  Peterborough  (p.  369)  in  its  organic  connection 
with  the  rest  of  the  building.  It  is  covered  with  niches  for  about  100  sta- 
tues, now  almost  all  filled  with  modern  figures.  The  door  of  the  N.  tran- 
sept is  a  fine  piece  of  E.E.  work.  —  The  main  dimensions  of  the 
cathedral  are:  length,  403  ft.;  width  of  nave,  65  ft.;  width  across  tran- 
septs, 149  ft.;  height,  60  ft.  The  daily  services  are  at  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m. 
We  enter  by  the  W.  portal. 

The  -Interior  (adm.  at  any  hour  of  the  day;  no  fee)  is  worthy  of 
the  exterior;  its  proportions  are  very  harmonious  and  pleasing,  while 
the  red  hue  of  the  stone  gives  an  impression  of  great  richness  and 
warmth.  The  Nave  is  in  the  early-Dec.  style,  with  a  beautiful  triforium. 
The  aisles  are  unusually  narrow.  Most  of  the  ancient  monuments  have 
been  destroyed,  but  many  of  the  modern  ones  are  interesting,  such  as 
those  of  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montague ,  Johnson,  and  Garrlck.  The  last 
is  provided  with  an  epitaph  by  Johnson.  In  the  N.  aisle  is  a  monument 
erected  by  Miss  Seward  (d.  1809)  to  her  parents,  with  an  inscription  by 
Sir  Walter  Scott  referring  to  the  poetess  herself.  The  Teansepts  are  E.E., 
with  Perp.  insertions. 

The  'Choir,  which  deflects  palpably  towards  the  N. ,  was  erected 
about  1200;  but  the  E.  half,  forming  the  Presbytery.,  was  rebuilt  in 
1325,  while  the  clerestory  of  the  W.  part  was  also  altered.  The  junction 
of  the  E.E.  and  Dec.  styles  is  easily  distinguishable.  The  reredos  and  stalls 
were  designed  by  Scott.  The  floor ,  in  Minton  tiles,  represents  the  early 
history  of  the  diocese.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  is  a  celebrated  monii- 
ment,  the  '■'Sleeping  Children  of  Mrs.  Robinson,  by  Chantrey;  and  at  the 
corresponding  place  in  the  N.  aisle  is  the  kneeling  figure  of  Bp.  Ryder. 
(d.  1836),  also  by  Chantrey.  —  At  the  E.  end  of  the  choir  is  the  Lady 
Chapel,  built  about  1300,  and  terminating  in  a  polygonal  apse  (the  only 
Gothic  apse  in  an  English  cathedral).  The  '^Stained  Glass  Windows,  dating 
from  1530-44,  were  brought  in  1802  from  a  convent  near  Liege.  —  A  door 
in  the  N.  aisle  of  the  choir  opens  on  a  vestibule  leading  to  the  'Chapter 
House,  an  octagonal  room,  with  a  ribbed  roof  supported  by  a  central 
sliaft.  A  room  above  contains  the  diocesan  Library,  among  the  treasures 
of  which  are  an  illuminated  MS.  of  'Chaucer's  Canterbury  Tales'  and 
a  Saxon  copy  of  the  Gospels  ('St.  Chad's  Gospels';  not  later  than  700). 
—  In  the  Dean's  Court,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  cathedral,  are  busts  of 
Dr.  Johnson  and  Garrick,  by   Westmac^t. 

The  Episcopal  Palace  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the  close,  and  on  the 
S.  is  a  Theological  College.  —  In  Beacon  St.,  opposite  the  Minster 
Pool,  is  the  Museum  <$'  Public  Library,  containing  local  antiquities 
and  a  few  paintings.  At  the  S.  end  of  St.  John  St.  is  St.  John's 
Hospital,  a  curious  old  structure,  with  eight  large  buttress-like 
chimneys  and  a  chapel.  Near  this  is  the  City  Station,  connected 
by  a  loop-line  with  the  Trent  Valley  Station  (see  p.  353 ). 

Environs.  To  the  N.E.  of  Lichfield  lies  Stowe  Pool,  along  which  a 
pretty  walk  leads  to  Stowe  and  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Chad,  containing 
the  tomb  of  Lucy  Porter,  Johnson's  step-daughter.  —  Wall,  the  site  of  the 
Roman  Etocetuvi,  is  situated  2  M.  to  the  S.,  on  Watling  Street  (p.  255). 
Remains  of  ancient  earthworks  are  still  visible.  Another  Roman  road, 
named  Icknield  Street,  leads  from  Lichfield  towards  the  N.E. 

From  Lichfield  to  Walsall,  ll'/jM.,  railway  in  1/2-f  4  hr.  (fares  2*., 
I5.  3d.,  i-i^l-zd.).  This  line  traverses  a  busy  coal-mining  district.  Stations 
uninteresting.     lli/cM.   Walsall,  see  p.  263. 

From  Lichfield  to  Derby,  23V2  M.,  railway  in  '/<  ^^'  (fares  3«  fd., 
l.<.  iid.).  —  This  railway,  which  is  the  N.  prolongation  of  the  line  just 
described,  follows  the  general  direction  of  the  Icknield  Street  (see  above). 

23* 


356     Route  46.     '  NUNEATON.  From  Liverpool 

Beyond  Lichfleld  the  train  passes  between  the  parks  of  Fisher- 
wick  ( left )  and  Tamhorn  (right)  and  crosses  the  Tame.  From  (91  M.) 
Tamu-orth  (p.  189),  where  our  line  intersects  the  Midland  Railway 
from  Birmingham  to  Derby  (R.  24),  the  train  follows  the  direction 
of  the  Anker.  At  (98V2  ^^O  Atherstone  (Red  Lion),  in  the  Three 
Tuns  Inn,  Henry  of  Richmond  passed  the  night  before  the  Battle 
of  BoswoTth  (1485),  the  field  of  which  lies  about  5  M.  to  the  N.E. 

104^1.  Nuneaton  (Newdegate  Arms:  Bull;  Rail.  Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  a  ribbon -making  town  of  11,580  inhab.,  with  an  old 
Gothic  church  and  the  remains  of  a  nunnery,  fitted  up  as  a  church. 

Eobert  Burton  (1577-1639),  author  of  the  'Anatomy  of  Melancholv', 
was  born  at  LiMley,  2  M.  to  the  X.E.;  and  Michael  Dravton  fl563-1631), 
author  of  the  'Polyolbion  ,  at  HarUMlL,  2  M.  to  the  N.W. 

FromXuneaton  to  Coventry  through  'George  Eliot's  country',  see  p.  '^58. 
Xuneaton  is  the  'Milby'  and  Chilvers  Coton,  1  M.  to  the  S.,  the  'Shepperton' 
of  'Scenes  from  Clerical  Life'.     To  Wigston  and  Leicester,  see  p.  361. 

120 M.  Rugby,  and  thence  to  (202  M.) London,  see  pp.  256-253. 

b.  From  Liverpool  to  London  via  Matlock  and  Derby. 

220  M.  Midland  Eailwat  in  5-6V2hrs.  (fares,  etc.,  see  p.  351).  There 
is  no  second  class  on  this  line,  but  the  third-class  carriages  are  good. 

From  Liverpool  to  (25  M.)  Glazebrook,  see  pp.  337,  338.  The 
London  line  here  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Manchester.  At 
(38  M.)  Tiviot  Dale,  one  of  the  stations  of  Stockport  (p.  345),  our 
line  is  joined  by  the  direct  line  of  the  Midland  railway  from  Man- 
chester (Central  Station)  to  London  (comp.  p.  345),  while  the 
trains  from  London  Road  come  in  at  (41  M.)  Romilly.  Beyond 
(42^/4  M.)  Marple  we  enter  Derbyshire,  and  the  hills  of  the  Peak 
District  (R.  46)  become  visible  to  the  left,  at  some  distance. 

We  now  traverse  the  valley  of  the  Goyt,  the  beauties  of  which 
are  marred  by  factories.  At  (46^4  M.)  Nerv  Mills  we  obtain,  on  the 
left,  a  distant  view  of  Kinder  Scgut  (p.  377),  and  farther  on  we  pass 
the  conical  Chinley  Churn  (1490  ft.).  —  5074  M.  Chinley  is  the 
junction  for  Dore  and  Sheffield  (p.  367)  and  for  Buxton  (p.  377). 
—  Beyond  (513/4  M.)  Chapel-en-le-Frith  (King's  Arms) ,  another 
of  the  starting-points  for  an  exploration  of  the  Peak  (comp. 
p.  377),  the  line  threads  the  Doveholes  Tunnel,  I72  ^1-  long, 
and  reaches  its  culminating  point  (985  ft.)  at  (55Y2  ^^-^  Peak 
Forest  Station.  It  then  descends  rapidly,  through  the  Great  Rocks 
Dale,  to  (60  M.)  Miller's  Dale,  the  junction  of  a  short  branch  to 
Buxton  (p.  377).  We  here  enter  the  romantic  *  Valley  of  the  Wye, 
and  the  scenery  between  this  point  and  Matlock  is  the  most  attrac- 
tive on  the  line  (best  views  to  the  left).  Two  tunnels.  623/4  M. 
Monsal  Dale.  Beyond  the  Longstone  Tunnel  we  reach  (66^/2  M.) 
Bakewell  (p.  374).  Tunnel.  70  M.  Rowsley  (Peacock),  the  nearest 
station  for  Haddon  Hall  and  Chatsworth(see  p.  375;  omnibuses  Is.). 
Beyond  Rowsley  the  Wye  flows  into  the  Dericent,  the  broad  valley 
of  which,  here  called  Darley  Dale,  we  now  follow.    72^/4  M.  Darley. 


to  London.  DERBY.  45.  Route.     357 

Beyond  (74^4  M.)  Matlock  Bridge  tlie  train  passes  througli  the 
High  Tor  Tunnel  and  reaches  (75V2  M.)  Matlock  Bath  (see  p.  372). 

Beyond  Matlock  the  train  threads  another  long  tunnel.  7674 M- 
Cromford  (*Greyhound,  plain,  K.  &  A.  3s.),  the  'cradle  of  the  cotton 
manufacture';  the  village  and  Willersley  Castle,  the  seat  of  the 
Arkwright  family,  lie  about  V2  ^^-  to  the  right.  It  was  here  that 
Richard  Arkwright  (p.  380)  built  his  first  cotton-mill  in  1770.  — 
79  M.  Whatstandwell  Bridge;  81  M.  Ambergate  (Hurt  Arms),  the 
junction  of  lines  to  Chesterfield  (p.  409)  and  Sheffield  (p.  366) 
and  to  Mansfield  (p.  437 )  \ia  Sutton  Junction.  —  84  M.  Belper 
(Lion),  a  small  hosiery  and  cotton  manufacturing  town  with  10,420 
inhabitants.  —  86  M.  Duffield,  with  the  remains  of  a  fine  Norman 
castle  (11th  cent.),  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (8V2  M.)  Wirksworth. 

We  now  quit  the  hilly  district  and  enter  the  wide  plain  of 
Central  England.  The  town  of  Derby  soon  comes  into  sight  on  the 
right,  before  entering  the  station  of  which  we  cross  the  Derweut 
Canal  and  the  Derwent. 

91 V2  J^^'  Derby.  —  Hotels.  -Midland,  at  the  Midland  Railway  Station, 
1  M.  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  R.  &  A.  45.;  -St.  James's,  central, 
R.  &  A.  4s. ;  RorAL  ;  Bell  ;  Wood's  Temperance.  —  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms. 

Tramways  run  from  the  centre  of  the  town  through  the  principal 
streets  to  the  Midland  Station  (fare  id.)  on  the  E.,  to  the  Great  Northern 
Station   on   the  N.W.,  and  to  various  other  points  in  the  suburbs. 

Cab  Is.  per  mile;  from  the  Midland  Station  into  the  town  Is.  Qd. 

Theatre  in  Babington  Lane. 

Derby,  the  county-town  of  Derbyshire,  with  94,146  inhab.,  lies 
on  the  Derwent,  opposite  the  site  of  the  Roman  Derventio. 

William  the  Conqueror  presented  the  town  and  its  environs  to  his 
natural  son,  'Peveril  of  the  Peak';  but  the  last  relics  tifthe  castle  erected 
by  the  latter  are  said  to  have  disappeared  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth. 
In  1745  Derby  was  the  most  southerly  point  reached  by  Charles  Stuart 
and  his  Highlanders  in  their  attempted  march  to  London.  —  Samuel 
Richardson  (1639-1761),  the  author  of  'Clarissa  Harlowe';  Joseph  Wright 
(1734-97;  'Wright  of  Derby"),  the  painter;  Hutton  (d.  1^15),  the  topo- 
grapher; and  Herbert  Spencer  were  born  at  Derby.  Dr.  Erasmus  Darwin 
wrote  many  of  his  works  at  Derby ,  and  died  here  in  1802.  —  Derby  is 
said  to  be  the  Stoniton  of  'Adam  Bede',  and  the  Count//  JIall  in  St.  Mary's 
Gate  the  scene  of  poor  Hett3-'s  trial.  —  The  manufacture  of  silk,  hosiery, 
elastic  fabrics,  cotton,  iron,  porcelain,  and  ornaments  of  Derbyshire 
spar  is  briskly  prosecuted  here.  The  first  silk-mill  (now  pulled  down)  in 
Enghind  was  erected  at  Derby  in  1718  on  an  island  in  the  Derwent.  The 
extensive  works  of  the  Midland  Railway  (visitors  admitted)  cover  over 
400  acres  and  employ  12,000  men. 

Starting  from  Victoria  St. ,  in  the  centre  of  the  town ,  we 
proceed  to  the  W.  through  the  Wardwick,  in  which  is  the  building 
containing  the  Museum  tf-  Library  (^daily,  except  Wed.,  10-9)  and 
the  Corporation  Art  Gallery  (Wed.  6d.;  Tues.  free;  other  week- 
days 10-9,  Id.),  to  the  Friar  Gate  ,  the  broadest  and  best-built 
street  in  the  town.  Immediately  to  the  right  is  the  modernized 
St.  Werburgh' s  Church ,  the  register  of  which  contains  the  entry  of 
Dr.  Johnson's  marriage  in  1735.  Here  we  turn  to  the  right  and 
pass  through  Cheapsidc  into  Sadler  Gate,  leading  to  the  Market 


358     Route  45.  LEICESTER.  From  Liverpool 

Place,  with  the  Town  Hall.  The  Iron  Gate,  opposite  the  Town 
Hall,  leads  N.  to  All  Saints'  Church,  with  a  fine  Perp.  Tower 
(175  ft.  high)  of  the  16th  cent.,  the  architectural  glory  of  the 
town,  to  which  an  incongruous  body  has  been  added. 

The  interior  contains  monuments  by  Roubiliac.  Chantrey,  and  Nol- 
lekens;  an  almost  unique  wooden  effigy  of  an  abbot;  a  curious  incised 
slab  with  the  figure  of  an  abbot;  a  fine  iron  chancel-screen;  and  the 
monument  of  Bess  of  Hardwick  (p.  409;  by  the  S.  wall).  Doles  of  bread 
are  distributed  here  and  at  St.  Werburgh's  after  the  morning  service. 

A  little  farther  to  the  N.,  at  the  end  of  Queen  St.,  is  the  lofty 
tapering  spire  of  St.  Alkmund's  (^205  ft.),  a  modern  edifice,  behind 
which  is  the  Rom.  Cath.  Church  of  St.  Mary ,  by  Pugin  (good  in- 
terior). —  From  this  point  we  descend  Bridge  Gate  to  the  right 
to  St.  Marys  Bridge,  with  the  interesting  little  chapel  of  St.  Mary- 
on-the-Bridge  (14th  cent.). 

The  Arboretum,  a  well  laid  out  park,  1/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Mid- 
land Station  (tramway  via  Osmaston  St.) ,  contains  a  curious  headless 
cross,  said  to  have  been  used  as  a  pay-table  between  the  townsmen  and 
peasants  during  the  plague  of  1665.  On  the  way  we  pass  the  ivy-clad 
church  of  St.  Peter  {iUh  cent.)-  In  Osmaston  St.  are  the  'Show  Rooms  of  the 
Derby  Crown  Parcelain  Co.  —  Derby  Grammar  School  was  founded  in  1160. 

Derby  is  a  very  convenient  starting-pdint  for  excursions  to  Chatsworth 
and  the  Peak  (comp.  R.  46).  Among  the  most  interesting  points  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  are  Locko  Park,  with  a  fine  collection  of  paint- 
ings, including  specimens  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Ghirlandajo.  Rubens,  Hol- 
bein, etc.;  Chaddesden,  IV2M.  to  theE.;  Elvaston  Castle,  4  M.  to  the  S.E.; 
and  Duffield  (p.  357). 

The  two  principal  lines  of  the  Midland  Railway  part  company  at 
Derby,  the  one  running  to  the  S.W.  to  Burton  (p.  189),  B'irmingham  (p.  258), 
Worcester  (p.  184),  and  Gloucester  (p.  170),  while  the  other  runs  S.E, 
to  Leicester,  Bedford,  and  London  (see  below).  —  Alton  Towers  (p.  352) 
may  be  reached  from  Derby  via  Uttoxeter  in  1  hr. 

Beyond  Derby  the  train  follows  the  valley  of  the  Derwent,  and 
joins  the  London  and  Scotland  trunk-liue  of  the  Midland  Railway 
at  (101  M.)  Trent  Junction  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Soar  and  the  Trent,  whence  the  branch-line  to  Not- 
tingham diverges  (p.  438).  The  line  turns  to  the  S.,  crosses  the 
Trent  and  the  Soar,  and  enters  Leicestershire,  celebrated  for  its 
short-horned  cattle,  its  sheep,  and  its  hunters.  —  IO71/2  ^1-  Lough- 
borough (Bull's  Head),  a  town  with  21,000  inhab.,  who  make  lace 
and  hosiery.  It  contains  a  good  cruciform  church,  restored  by  Scott, 
and  a  large  bell-foundry,  where  the  'Great  Paul'  of  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral was  cast  in  1882.  To  the  right  are  the  heights  of  Chamwood 
Forest,  culminating  in  Bardon  Hill  (902  ft.).  The  train  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Soar.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  (right)  of  (1091/2  M.) 
Barrow-on-Soar  lies  Quorndon,  headquarters  of  the  well-known 
Quorn  Hunt.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  Mount  Sorrel,  with  granite 
quarries.  —  115  M.  5i/sf07i,  junction  for  Melton  Mowbray,  seep.  360. 

120  m.  Leicester.  —  Hotels.  Rotal;  Bell,  Stag  (fe  Pheasant, 
Humberstone  Gate;  Wellington;  White  Hart;  Blue  Lion;  Wtveen 
Tempeeance. 

Tramways  (id.,  2d.)  run  from  the  Clock  Tower  (p.  359)  through  the 
principal  streets  to  the  various  suburbs. 


to  London.  LEICESTER.  45.  Route.     359 

Opera  House,  Silver  St. ;  Theatre  Royal,  Horsefair  St. 

Railway  Stations.  Joint  Midland  d:  L.  N.  W.  Station,  near  the  centre 
of  the  town;  G.  If.  R.  Station,  Belgrave  Road,  to  the  >;. 

Leicester,  the  county-town  of  LeicesteLsbire,  is  an  ancient  place 
with  200,000  inhab.  (1897),  situated  on  the  river  Soar.  It  is  one 
of  the  chief  seats  of  the  stocking-manufacture,  and  the  making  of 
boots  and  elastic  fabrics  is  also  extensively  carried  on. 

Tradition  ascribes  the  original  foundation  of  Leicester  to  King  Lear, 
and  the  present  town  occupies  the  site  of  the  Roman  Ratae,  of  which 
several  interesting  relics  are  preserved.  Fourteen  Roman  pavements  have 
been  unearthed  in  the  town;  and  2  M.  to  the  X.,  on  the  Fosse  Wcv/,  which 
ran  through  Leicester,  the  oldest  of  the  three  Roman  milestones  found  in 
Great  Britain  was  discovered  (now  in  the  iluseum,  p.  360).  Leicester  was 
the  seat  of  a  mint  from  the  reign  of  Athelstane  to  that  of  Henry  II. 
Richard  III.  spent  the  night  before  the  battle  of  Bosworth  (p.  360)  in  the 
Blue  Boar  Inn  at  Leicester,  now  demolished,  and  his  body  was  brought 
back  here  for  burial.  His  stone  coffin  is  said  to  have  been  afterwards 
used  as  a  horse-trout;h  for  the  inn.  A  building  near  the  Bow  Bridge  (see 
below),  bears  the  inscription:  'Near  this  spot  lie  the  remains  of  Richard  III., 
the  last  of  the  Plantagenets,  1485.'  In  the  Civil  War  Leicester  held  out 
for  the  Parliament,  and  was  taken  in  1642  by  Prince  Rupert.  Leicester 
was  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  Cooper  (1805-92),  the  Chartist,  and  of  Thomas 
Cook  (1808),  founder  of  'Cook's  Tour3\ 

In  the  centre  of  the  town,  at  the  intersection  of  the  five  main 
streets,  is  a  handsome  Memorial  Cross  or  Clock  Tower,  erected  in 
1868,  with  effigies  of  Simon  deMontfort,  SirT. White,  Aid. Newton, 
and  William  of  Wyggestone,  four  benefactors  of  Leicester.  Proceed- 
ing to  the  W.,  through  High  St. ,  we  pass  the  'Brick  Tou-er\  a  quaint 
Elizabethan  dwelling,  and  reach  St.  Nicholas,  an  ancient  church, 
with  some  massive  Norman  masonry  in  the  interior  and  thin  Roman 
bricks  in  the  clerestory.  On  the  W.  it  is  adjoined  by  the  so-called 
Jewry  Wall,  the  chief  Roman  relic  in  Leicester. 

This  wall  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  Jews  were  formerly 
restricted  to  this  part  of  the  town.  It  is  composed  of  rubble  and  Roman 
bricks,  and  is  75  ft.  long  and  about  20  ft.  high.  On  the  E.  side  are  four 
lar^ze  archways;  the  W.  side  is  concealed.  —  Farther  to  the  W.  is  the 
West  Bridge  over  the  Soar,  beyond  which  is  Boic  Bridge  (see  above),  over 
an  arm  of  the  river.    Adjacent  is  an  interesting  Roman  pavement. 

To  the  S.  of  St.  Nicholas,  reached  through  Harvey  Lane,  is  the 
site  of  the  old  Castle  of  Leicester,  built  soon  after  the  Norman 
Conquest  and  afterwards  occupied  by  Simon,  Earl  of  Montfort,  and 
the  Dukes  of  Lancaster,  of  which  nothing  remains  except  the 
modernised  Great  Hall,  now  used  for  the  county-assizes.  Adjacent 
is  a  large  earthwork  called  the  Mount  or  Castle  Vieiv,  on  which  the 
castle-donjon  or  keep  formerly  stood  (entrance  through  the  yard 
of  a  public -house).  To  the  S.  of  the  Mount  is  Trinity  Hospital, 
founded  in  1531.  Close  to  the  castle,  of  which  it  formed  the 
chapel,  is  the  *Church  of  St.  Mary  de  Castro,  an  interesting  old 
building,  exhibiting  specimens  of  all  the  architectural  styles  from 
Norman  to  late-Perpendicular. 

The  archway  to  the  S.  leads  to  the  Newark  (i.e.  the  new  work), 
originally  an  addition  to  the  castle,  from  which  another  old  gate  (re- 
stored), adjoining  the  Militia  Barracks,  opens  into  Oxford  St. 


360     Route  45.  LEICESTER.  From  Liverpool 

To  the  S.  of  the  Memorial  Tower  is  the  Market  Place,  con- 
taining the  Market  House,  with  a  curious  outside-staircase  in  front. 

—  In  Horsefair  St.,  to  the  S.  of  the  market,  are  the  Municipal  Build- 
ings, with  a  clock-tower  145  ft.  high.  —  At  the  end  of  Horsefair 
St.  we  turn  to  the  left  into  Market  St.  and  cross  Belvoir  St.  into  King 
St.  To  the  left  diverges  the  New  Walk,  leading  to  the  Municipal 
Museum,  which  contains  a  good  collection  of  Roman  and  other  an- 
tiquities, etc.  The  Art  Gallery,  Hastings  St.,  contains  a  fine  work 
hy  G.  F.  Watts  ('Fata  Morgana'),  two  views  of  Venice  by  J.  M.  W. 
Turner,  etc. 

Farther  to  the  S.,  in  De  Montfort  Sq. ,  is  a  Statue  of  Robert  Hall 
(1764-1831),  the  celebrated  preacher,  who  lived  at  Leicester  for  many  years. 

From  the  Memorial  Cross,  Church  Gate  leads  N.  to  St.  Marga- 
ret's Church,  with  a  Perp.  tower.  —  The  old  TownHall  contains  some 
fine  carving  (Mayor's  Parlour).  —  Wyggestone's  Hospital  (p.  359), 
founded  in  1513  for  25  men  and  women,  now  occupies  buildings  in 
the  Hinckley  Road;  the  charity  also  supports  several  schools. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town  are  the  insignificant  hut  pictur- 
esque ruins  of  Leicester  Abbey,  dedicated  to  'St.  Mary  of  the  Meadows', 
where  Cardinal  Wolsey  died  in  1530.  The  abbey  was  erected  in  the  12th 
cent.,  but  the  remaining  ruins,  except  the  gateway  in  the  E.  wall,  date 
only  from  the  16th  century.  (The  entrance  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
enclosure.)  A  house  has  been  built  with  part  of  the  old  materials.  The 
most  convenient  way  to  reach  the  abbey  is  to  follow  the  Belgrave  Road 
to  the  (3/4  M.)  G.  li.  R.  Station  (tramway  id.),  whence  the  Abbey  Park 
Road  leads  N.  to  the  (1/2  M.)  abbey-enclosure.  To  the  left  lies  the  "Ahhey 
Park,  with  its  pretty  flower-beds,  opened  in  1S82. 

About  6  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Leicester  is  Bradgate  Park  (open  to 
the  .public),  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Stamford,  with  a  Ime  avenue  of 
chestnuts;  the  old  house,  now  in  ruins,  was  the  birthplace  of  Lady 
.Tane  Grey  (1.535-54),  whose  father,  the  Duke  of  Suflolk,  belonged  to  the 
family  of  the  Barons  Grey  of  Groby,  a  village  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  was 
at  Bradgate  Park  that  Roger  Ascham  found  his  former  pupil  immersed  in 
Plato ,   while   the  rest   of  the  family  were  hunting  in  Charnwood  Forest. 

—  Xearly  2  M.  farther  on  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  Ulverscroft  Priory. 

—  An  interesting  excursion  may  be  made  from  Leicester  to  Bardon  Hill, 
12  M.  to  the  X.W.,  which  is  most  easily  reached  by  railway  (see  below). 
•Bardon  Hill  (902  ft.)  lies  almost  exactly  in  the  centre  of" England  and 
commands  a  very  extensive  prospect. 

Feom  Leicestee  to  Melton  Mowbkat,  I51/2  M.  railway  in  2240  min. 
(fares  2s.,  is.  ^^jid.).  —  5  M.  Syston.  Aliout  8  M.  to  tbe  N.W.  is  Rothley 
Temple.,  where  Lord  Macaulay  (1800-1859)  was  born ;  and  2  M.  to  the  N.E. 
is  Qu.enihorough  Hall.,  said  to  be  in  the  same  condition  as  when  occupied 
by  Prince  Rupert  before  the  siege  of  Leicester  in  1642.  —  151/2  M.  Melton 
JS.o-whra.j  ( Barborough ;  George;  Bell),  a  small  town  with  6392  inhub.,  and 
the  metropolis  of  fox-hunting  in  the  Midlands,  with  numerous  hunting- 
boxes  and  extensive  stabling.  In  winter  it  is  crowded  with  sportsmen. 
Melton  Mowbray  is  also  famous  for  its  pork-pies  and  Stilton  cheese.  The 
parish-church  is  a  fine  E.E.  edifice,  with  Dec.  details.  Beyond  Melton 
Mowbray  the  line  goes  on  via  Saxby  and  Stamford  to  Peterborough  (see  p.  369). 

Fkom  Leicester  to  Bcrtox,  80^/2  M.,  railwav  in  I-I1/2  hr.  (fares  4s. 
id.,  2s.  6V2d.).  —  141/2  M.  Bardon  Station  lies  1  M."  to  the  S.W.  of  Bardon 
Hill  (see  above).  Adjacent,  but  rather  nearer  Coalville,  the  following 
station,  is  the  Cistercian  monastery  of  Mount  St.  Bernard,  the  only 
'mitred  abbey'  in  England,  built  by  Pugin  the  Elder.  From  (16  M.)  Coal- 
ville a  branch  diverges  to  Nuneaton  (p.  356),  passing  Market  Bosworth, 
near  which,  in  14S5,  Richard  III.  was  defeated  and  slain  by  Henry,  Earl 


to  London.  KETTERING.  45.  Route.     361 

of  Riclimond.  —  21  M.  Ashby-de-la-Zouch  (Royal;  Queen's  Head)^  a  pros- 
perous manufacturing  town  in  the  middle  of  an  extensive  coal-field.  The 
old  Castle,  built  in  the  time  of  Edward  IV.  (1461-83)  and  now  in  ruins, 
gave  a  night's  lodging  to  Mary  Stuart  in  1569,  but  is,  perhaps,  more 
familiar  from  the  role  it  plays  in  'Ivanhoe'.  The  old  Church  contains 
the  tomb  of  the  Countess  of  Huntingdon,  Wesley's  friend,  and  a  curious 
'linger- pillory'  for  disturbers  of  divine  service.  The  Jvanhoe  Mineral 
Baths  attract  numerous  patients.  Kear  Ashby  are  the  romantic  ruins  of 
Grace  Dieu  Nunnery.  —  SOVa  M.  Burton,  see  p.  189. 

From  [124  M.l  Wigston  branch-lines  diverge  to  Nuneaton  and 
Birmingham  fp.  258"),  and  to  Rugby  (p.  256^. 

136  M.  Market  Harborough  (Angel;  Three  Swans;  Peacock). 
another  great  hunting-centre,  is  a  small  town  with  5870  inhabitants. 

The  Church  is  a  fine  Perp.  structure  of  the  14- loth  cent.  ,  -with  a 
'broach'  spire  (see  Introd.).  There  are  traces  of  a  Roman  camp  in  the 
vicinity,  and  the  town  itself  is  probably  of  Roman  origin.  Charles  I. 
had  his  headquarters  here  before  the  battle  of  Xaseby  (1645).  and  the 
house  in  which  he  slept  is  still  pointed  out.  Nasehy  lies  7  BI.  to  the 
S.W.  —  From  Market  Harborough  branch-lines  radiate  to  Rugby  (p.  266), 
Nottingham  (p.  438),  and  to  (14  M.)  Seaton.  the  junction  for  Uppingham, 
with  a  well  known  public  school,  and  for  Stamford  (p.  369)  and  Peter- 
borough (p.  369). 

147  M.  Kettering  (Royal;  George),  a  town  of  19.454  inhab., 
with  an  interesting  late-Perp.  church.  In  a  house  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  town  is  the  room  in  which  the  first  missionary  meeting  in  Eng- 
land was  held  in  1792  by  Andrew  Fuller  and  a  few  other  Baptists. 

From  Kettering  to  Huntingdon  and  Cambridge,   48  M.,  railway   in 

2  hrs.  (fares  6s.  6d.,  3s.  9i  ^d.).  —  9  M.  Thrapston,  from  which  a  visit  may  be 
paid  to  the  architecturally  interesting  churches  of  (V2  M.)  IsUp  and  (2^  2  M.) 
Lowick  (monuments  and  stained  glass)  and  also  to  (P/4  M.)  Drai/ton,  a 
very  fine  specimen  of  a  medineval  manor  (15th  cent.).  At  (IT'/jM.)  Kimholton 
is  a  fine  old  castle  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Manchester,  containing  a 
collection  of  paintings;  Catherine  of  Aragon  died  here  in  1536.  —  28  M. 
Huntingdon,  and  thence  to  (48  M.)  Cambridge,  see  pp.  370.  371. 

From  Kettering  to  Oakham  and  Nottingham,  52  M.,  railway  in 
I-2V2  hrs.  (fares  6s.  lOd.,  45.  ^^I^d.).  This  line  forms  an  alternative  route 
for  some  of  the  Midland  expresses  to  the  N.  —  IS  M.  Manton,  junction  of 
a  line  to  Peterborough  (p.  869).  —  22  M.  Oakham  (George;  Crown),  the 
county-town  of  Rutland,  with  .3540  inhabitants.  The  walls  of  the  Korman 
hall  (now  a  court-room)  of  the  old  Castle  (p.  xxxix)  are  covered  with  horse- 
shoes, given,  in  accordance  with  an  ancient  custom,  by  kings,  queens,  and 
peers  who  passed  through  the  town.  Among  them  are  those  given  by  Queen 
Klizabeth,  f^tueen  Victoria,  and  the  Princess  of  Wales.  —  29'/2  M.  Sa.rhy, 
junction  of  a  line  to  Bourn  (p.  369)  and  Stamford  (p.  369).  —  33V-'  M.  Melton 
Mowbray,  see  p.  360.  —  52  M.  Nottingham,  see  p.  438.  The  line  rejoins 
the  main  line  at   Trowell,  near  Ilkeston  (p.  409). 

The  train  follows  the  Ise,  passing  through  beds  of  Northampton 
iron-stone.  At(154Y2M.l  Wellingborough  (Rindi;  Angel),  a  town 
with  15,000  inhab.  and  a  tasteful  church,  we  cross  the  L.N.W, 
line  from  Peterborough  [p.  369)  to  Northampton  (p.  255\     Ecton, 

3  M.  from  Wellingborough,  was  the  birthplace  of  Benjamin  Frank- 
lin's father.  Benjamin  Franklin  visited  the  house  in  1758.  The 
train  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  winding  Ouse.  which  we  cross 
six  times  before  reaching  Bedford.  Beyond  (167  M.)  Oakley  diverges 
the  Midland  branch  to  Northampton  (p.  255).  To  the  left  rises  the 
Saxon  tower  of  the  church  of  Clapham. 


362     Route  45.  BEDFORD.  From  Liverpool 

170  M.  Bedford.  —  Hotels.  -Swan,  on  the  river,  at  the  S.  end  of  High 
St.,  E.  &  A.  4s.  6d. ;  Red  Liox,  High  St.,  well  spoken  of;  George-, 
Clarence,  unpretending;  Temperance,  at  the  Midland  Station. 

Railway  Stations.  The  station  of  the  Midland  Railway  is  on  the  "W., 
the  L.N.W.  Station  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  town. 

Bedford^  the  county-town  of  Bedfordshire  and  the  place  from 
which  a  suffragan  of  the  Bishop  of  London  takes  his  title,  is  a  quiet 
agricultural  town  with  28,000  inhab.,  on  the  Ouse. 

Now,  as  in  the  days  of  Camden,  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  Bed- 
ford is  'more  eminent  for  the  pleasantness  of  its  situation  and  antiquity 
than  anything  of  beauty  or  stateliness'.  Its  site  seems  to  have  been  oc- 
cupied before  the  Roman  period,  and  it  has  been  identified  with  the 
Saxon  Bedicanford.  In  the  11th  cent,  a  Norman  castle  was  erected  here 
to  command  the  ford,  and  its  important  situation  involved  it  in  most  of 
the  internal  struggles  of  England.  The  last  siege  it  underwent  was  in 
1224,  when  Henry  III.  captured  the  town  and  razed  the  castle. 

From  the  Midland  Station,  near  which  are  Howard's  Britannia 
Iron  Works  (reaping-machines,  etc.),  the  Midland  Road  leads  in 
10  miu.  to  tiie  High  Street,  the  main  street  of  the  town.  Near  the 
bridge  at  its  W.  end  is  the  site  of  the  old  Castle  (no  admission), 
marked  by  an  artificial  circular  mound,  15  ft.  high  and  150  ft.  in 
diameter.     A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  on  the  Embankment. 

To  most  visitors  the  chief  interest  of  Bedford  will  probably 
centre  in  its  reminiscences  of  Jo/tn -Bunt/an  (1628-88;  see  below 
and  p.  363).  The  Bunyan  Meeting  occupies  the  site  of  the  building 
in  which  he  preached,  and  the  vestry  contains  a  chair  which  be- 
longed to  him  and  a  door  from  Bedford  Gaol. 

The  chapel  was  adorned  in  1876  with  a  pair  of  handsome  bronze  doors, 
the  gift  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  containing  ten  reliefs  from  the 'Pilgrim's 
Progress'.  In  the  possession  of  the  minister  of  the  Meeting  are  Bunyan's 
cabinet,  staff,  jug,  and  will  (in  his  own  handwriting);  also  ver-ions  of  the 
'Pilgrim's  Progress'  in  70-80  languages  and  dialects.  The  Literary  dr  Scien- 
tific Institute,  in  Harpur  St.,  possesses  Bunyan's  copy  of  Foxe's  Book  of  Mar- 
tyrs. On  St.  Peter's  Green,  at  the  end  of  the  High  St.,  is  a  bronze  Statue 
of  Bunyan,  by  Boehm,  presented  to  the  town  by  the  Duke  of  Bedford. 

Bunyan  was  confined  for  12  years  (1660-72)' in  the  old  county -gaol, 
which  stood  on  the  now  vacant  space  in  High  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Silver 
St.,  and  was  taken  down  in  ISOl.  It  was,  however,  during  a  subsequent 
imprisonment  of  six  months  in  1675-76  that  he  wrote  the  'Pilgrim's  Pro- 
gress'. This  was  in  the  town-gaol  on  Bedford  Bridge,  which  was  removed 
in  1765.  The  offence  for  which  he  was  imprisoned  is  described  in  his  in- 
dictment as  'devilishly  and  perniciously  abstaining  from  coming  to  church 
to  hear  divine  service,  and  for  being  a  common  upholder  of  several  unlaw- 
ful meetings  and  conventicles,  to  the  great  disturbance  and  distraction  of 
the  good  subjects  of  the  kingdom,  contrary  to  the  laws  of  our  Sovereign 
lord  the  king'.  His  treatment  between  the  autumn  assizes  of  1661  and  the 
spring  as'^ize'i  of  1662  was  very  lenient,  but  for  the  rest  of  the  time  his 
confinement  was  somewhat  rigorous. 

Among  the  churches  of  Bedford  the  most  important  is  that  of 
St.  PauVs,  a  handsome  Gothic  structure,  practically  rebuilt  in  1879. 
—  The  venerable  church  of  St.  Peter,  at  the  E.  end  of  High  St., 
possesses  a  fine  Norman  doorway  and  some  ancient  stained-glass 
windows.  The  tower  contains  some  Saxon  work.  —  St.  Mary's  also 
has  some  Saxon  work  and  a  Norman  tower.  —  A  statue  of  John 
Howard  (p.  363)  embellishes  one  of  the  squares. 


to  London.  AMPTHILL.  45.  Route.     363 

Few  towns  of  the  size  of  Bedford  can  compete  with  it  in  the  number 
and  extent  of  its  schools  and  charities,  and  with  one-fourth  of  its  popula- 
tion under  tuition  it  may  fairly  be  called  the  -metropolis  of  schools'. 
This  is  mainly  due  to  the  liberality  of  Sir  William  Harpur  (d.  1574),  at 
one  time  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  who  presented  to  hi-!  native  town  some 
land  in  Holborn.  which  has  increased  in  value  from  4"i.  to  upwards  of 
15,000Z.  a  year.  The  principal  schools  are  Bedford  Grammar  School,  one 
of  the  leading  public  schools  of  England  (8>J  pupils),  in  an  imposing  new 
building  opened  in  1891,  in  De  Parys  Avenue;  the  Modern  School  (660 
pupils),  in  Harpnr  St. ;  tlie  High  School  for  Girls  (SUO  pupils),  in  Bromham 
Road:  and  the  Modern  School  for  Girls,  in  St.  Paul's  Square. 

The  Oitse  is  a  capital  rivi  r  for  boating  (boats  for  hire  at  the  Embank- 
ment), and  Chetham,  the  well-known  bout-builder,  has  his  yard  at  Bedford. 
An  illuminated  Biver  Fete  is  held  here  in  summer. 

Environs.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town  lies  the  village  of  Elstow, 
the  birthplace  of  John  Bunyan  in  162>^,  still  containing  the  cottage  in 
which  he  lived  after  his  marriage.  To  reach  it  we  cross  the  bridge  at 
the  S.  end  of  the  High  Street,  and  at  the  (V2  M.)  bridge  over  the  rail- 
way turn  to  the  right  (road  to  Luton).  Bunyan's  cottage,  indicated  by  a 
notice,  is  one  of  the  first  on  the  right.  The  church,  an  interesting  build- 
ing, partly  in  the  Norman  and  partly  in  the  E.  E.  style,  with  a  massive 
detached  tower  (Perp.),  belonged  to  a  Benedictine  abbey  (founded  1078), 
of  which  a  few  scanty  ruins  still  remain.  The  keys  are  kept  by  the  clerk 
(fee),  next  door  to  the  Swan  Inn.  Bunyan  was  wont  to  practise  the  art 
of  bell-ringing  in  the  tower,  and  the  sacristan  does  not  hesitate  to  point 
out  the  very  bell  that  he  used  to  ring,  showing  the  grooves  worn  by  the 
rope  in  the  stone  archway  under  which  Bunyan  stood,  in  dread  lest  the 
bell  should  fall  upon  him.  Two  memorial-windows  have  been  erected 
to  Bunyan,  with  scenes  from  the  'Pilgrim's  Progress'  and  the 'Holy  War'. 
Even  the  unpretending  village-green,  with  it  curious  old  Moot  HalL 
acquires  interest  when  we  remember  Bunyan's  account  of  the  sudden 
awakening  of  his  conscience  while  he  was  playing  tip-cat  here  one  Sunday 
afternoon.  —  To  Cardit)(/ion,  see  below. 

From  Bedford  to  Northampton,  31  M.,  Midland  Railway  in  40  min. 
(fares  2s.  Ud.,  Is.  2d.). —  11 M.  Olney  (Bull).,  where  the  poet  Cowper  resided 
with  Mrs.  Vnwin  in  1768-lSOO  and  wrote  many  of  his  poems.  The  so-called 
'()lney  Hymns'  were  the  joint  production  of  Cowper  and  his  friend  John 
Newton,  vicar  of  the  parish,  whose  remains  were  transferred  from  London 
to  Olney  churchyard  in  1893.  The  house  in  which  the  poet  lived,  at  the 
corner  of  the  market-place,  still  exists.  —  21  M.  Northampton.,  see  p.  255. 

From  Bedford  to  Cambridge,  29  M. ,  L.N.  W.R.  in  l-liA  hr.  (fares 
5s.,  3s.  Id.,  2s.  51/2^.).  At  (S  M.)  Sandy.,  the  Roman  Salinae,  this  line  inter- 
sects the  main  G.  N.  II.  line  (comp.  p.  371).  —  29  M.  Cambridge,  see  p.  440. 

From  Bedford  to  Hitchin,  16  M.,  Midland  Railway  in  ^t  hr.  (f:  res 
2s.  2d.,  Is.  4d.).  The  first  station  on  this  line  is  C2V2  M.)  Cardington,  where 
John  Howard,  the  philanthropist,  lived  from  1758  till  his  death  in  1790. 
At  (16  M.)  Hitchin  we  reach  the  main  line  of  the  G.  N.  R.  (p.  371). 

From  Bedford  to  Bi.ETCiiLEy,  L6  M.,  L.N.W.  railwav  in  1/2-3/4  hr.  (2s.  6d., 
Is.  8d.,  Is.  4d.).  About  31/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  (12  M.)  Wohurn  Sands  is  Woburn 
Abbey  (p.  254).  —  At  (15  IS..')  Fenny  Stratford  the  train  crosses  Watling  Street 
(p.  255),  the  Ouse.,  and  the  Grand  Junction  Canal.  At  (16  M.)  Bletchley  we 
join  the  main  line  of  the  L.N. W.R.  (p.  254). 

The  Midland  Railway  crosses  the  Ouse  and  continues  to  traverse 
a  fiat  and  fertile  district.  At  (176  M.^  Ampthill  we  pass  a  chain  of 
low  hills.  The  small  town  of  Ampthill  (King's  Arms;  White  Hart) 
lies  about  2/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  Before  reaching  the  latter 
the  line  passes  through  a  tunnel ,  below  part  of  Ampthill  Park, 
which  is  famous  for  its  venerable  oaks  and  its  magnificent  avenue 
of  limes.  Ampthill  House ,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  lies  to 
the  left,   near  the  entrance  of  the  tunnel.    Close  by  is  the  site  of 


364     Route  45.  ST.  ALBANS.  From  Liverpool 

the  old  castle  where  Catherine  of  Aragon  resided  during  her  trial 
(marked  by  a  cross  with  an  inscription  by  Horace  Walpole). 

189  M.  LvLtonf  George;  Red  Lion),  a  busy  town  of  30, 000 iuhah., 
on  the  Lea  (Lea-town),  famous  for  its  manufacture  of  straw-hats. 
On  Monday  mornings  the  market  in  the  Straw-plait  Halls  is  some- 
times attended  by  2000  people.  The  parish-church,  with  its  fine 
embattled  tower,  possesses  a  chapel  founded  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VI. 
(14'2'2-61)  and  contains  a  curious  font. 

From  Luton  a  branch-line  runs  to  (5  M.)  Dunstable  (p.  254)  and  (12  M.) 
Leighton  Buzzard  (p.  254).  It  is  also  connected  by  a  short  branch  with 
Hatfield.^  on  the  main  line  of  the  Great  Northern  Railway  (see  p.  3T1), 

Beyond  Luton  the  Midland  line  runs  for  some  distance  parallel 
with  the  G.N.  R.  line  to  Hatfield  (see  p.  371).  On  the  right  is  Luton 
Hoo  House,  a  handsome  mansion  in  a  prettily-wooded  park  ,  with 
an  artificial  lake.  Beyond  ( 19"2  M.l  Chiltern  Green  the  line  crosses 
the  G.  N.  R.  and  passes  into  Hertfordshire.  Near  (194  M.)  Har- 
penden  is  the  well-known  experimental  scientific  farm  of  Rotham- 
sted.    A  branch-line  runs  hence  to  (8  M. )  Hemel  Hempstead  (p.  253). 

199  M.  St.  Albans  (^Peahen;  George,  both  near  the  Abbey,  un- 
pretending) lies  a  short  distance  to  the  E.  of  the  site  of  Verulamium, 
the  most  important  town  in  the  S.  of  England  during  the  Roman 
period,  of  which  the  fosse  and  fragments  of  the  walls  remain.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  St.  Alban,  a  Roman  soldier,  the  proto-martyr 
of  Christianity  in  our  island,  who  was  executed  here  in  A.D.  30-4. 
Holmhurst  Hill,  near  the  town,  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  scene 
of  his  death.  The  Roman  town  fell  into  ruins  after  the  departure 
of  the  Romans,  and  the  new  town  of  St.  Albans  began  to  spring  up 
after  795,  when  OffalL.  King  of  Mercia,  founded  here,  in  memory 
of  St.  Alban,  the  magnificent  abbey,  of  which  the  fine  church  and  a 
large  square  gateway  are  now  the  only  remains.  Pop.  (1891)  12,895. 

The  *Abbey  Church,  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  with  a  tower  at 
the  point  of  intersection,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  churches  in  Eng- 
land. It  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  cathedral  in  1877,  when  the 
new  episcopal  see  of  St.  Albans  was  created.  It  measures  550  ft. 
in  length  (being  the  second  longest  church  in  England ,  coming 
after  Winchester),  by  175  ft.  in  breadth  across  the  transepts;  the 
fine  Norman  Tower  is  145  ft.  high.  The  earliest  parts  of  the  exist- 
ing building,  in  which  Roman  tiles  from  Yerulamium  were  freely 
made  use  of.  date  from  the  11th  cent.  (ca.  1080);  the  Choir  was 
built  in  the  13th  cent,  and  the  Lady  Chapel  in  the  14th  century. 
An  extensive  restoration  of  the  building,  including  a  newE.E.  W. 
Front,  with  a  large  Dec.  window,  and  large  new  windows  in  the 
N.  and  S.  transepts,  has  been  completed  at  an  expense  of  130,000^,, 
by  Lord  Grimthorpe,  who  acted  as  his  own  architect  without  con- 
spicuous success.  St.  Albans ,  320  ft.  above  the  sea,  lies  higher 
than  any  other  English  cathedral.  See  Fronde's  'Annals  of  an 
English  Abbey'. 


to  London.  ST.  ALBANS.  45.  Route.     365 

The  fine  Interior  (adm.  to  Dave  free;  to  E.  parts  of  the  church  6d. ; 
tickets  from  the  verger)  has  recently  been  restored  with  great  care.  The 
Nave,  the  lonjjest  Gothic  nave  in  the  world,  shows  a  curious  intermixture 
of  the  Norman.  E.E.,  and  Dec.  styles:  and  the  change  of  the  pitch  of 
the  vaulting  in  the  S.  aisle  has  a  singular  effect.  The  Stained  Glass  Win- 
dows in  the  N.  aisle  date  from  the  l5th  century.  The  painted  ceiling  of 
the  CuoiR  dates  I'rom  the  end  of  Edward  TH.'s  reign  (1327-77),  that  of  the 
CirANCKL  from  the  time  of  Henry  VI.  (1422-61).  Some  traces  of  old  fresco- 
painting  have  also  been  discovered  in  t'ue  N.  Tkansept.  The  Screen 
behind  the  altar  in  the  Prespttekt  is  of  very  tine  mediseval  workmanship, 
and  has  lately  been  restored  and  fitted  with  statues.  Many  of  the  chan- 
tries, or  mortuary  chapels  of  the  abbots,  and  other  monuments  deserve 
attention.  The  splendid  brass  of  A''boi  de  la  Mare  is  best  seen  from  the 
aisle  to  the  S.  of  the  presbytery.  In  the  Saint's  Chapel  are  the  tomb  of 
Duke  Humphrey  of  Gloucester  (d.  1447),  brother  of  Henry  V.,  and  the 
shrine  of  St.  Alban.  In  the  X.  aisle  of  the  presbytery  are  parts  of  the 
shrine  of  St.  Amphibahis.  The  Lady  Chapel  has  been  restored  with  great 
richness  and  provided  with  a  marble  floor. 

The  Gaie,  the  only  remnant  of  the  conventual  l)ulldings  of  the 
abbey,  stands  to  the  W.  of  the  church.  It  is  a  good  specimen  of 
the  Perp.  style.   It  was  formerly  used  as  a  gaol,  and  is  now  a  school. 

The  Clarence  Park  Recreation  Ground^  presented  to  the  city  by 
Sir  J.  Blundell  Maple,  was  opened  in  July,  1894. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  abbey  stands  the  ancient  Church  of  St. 
Michael.,  which  is  interesting  as  containing  the  tomb  of  the  great  Lord 
Bacon,  Baron  Verulam  and  Viscount  St.  Albans,  who  died  at  Gorhambury 
House  here  in  i62o.  The  monument  (-sic  sedebat')  is  by  Rysbrack.  To 
reach  the  church  we  turn  to  the  left  (W.)  on  leaving  the  cathedral  and 
descend  to  the  bridge  over  the  Ver.  The  keys  are  kept  at  No.  13  St. 
Michael's  Cottages.  The  present  Gorhambury  House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl 
of  Verulam,  IV2  M,  to  the  W.  of  St.  Michael's,  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a  beautiful  park,  and  contains  a  goud  collection  of  portraits.  —  St.  Albai'S 
was  the  scene  of  two  of  the  numerous  battles  fought  during  the  Wars  of 
the  Roses.  The  scene  ot  the  first,  which  ushered  in  the  contest,  and  took 
place  in  1455,  is  now  called  the  Ke//  Field;  the  other  was  fought  in  1461 
at  Barnard's  Heath,  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  just  beyond  St.  Peter's  Church. 

In  summer  a  coach  plies  daily  between  St.  Albans  and  London  (fare  10s.). 

For  a  notice  of  the  remaining  stations,  the  chief  of  which  is 
(212  M.)  Hendon,  see  Baedeker  s  London.  The  handsome  station  of 
St.  Pnncras  in  (220  M.)  London  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 

c.  From  Liverpool  to  London  vik  Sheffield,  Grantham, 
and  Peterborough. 

238  M.  Railway  in  6  hrs.  (fares,  etc.,  see  p.  351).  At  tirst  we  travel 
by  the  Central  (Manchester,  Sheffield,  d:  Lincolnshire)  Railwaii,  which  runs 
in  connection  with  the  Great  Northern  Rathe  ay  and  joins  it  at  Ketford  (see 
p.  368).  Through-carriages  run  from  Liverpool  to  London.  —  The  express- 
trains  from  Manchester  to  (203  31.)  London  by  this  route  perform  the  journey 
in  41/4  hrs.  (fares  2is.  Qd.,  15s.  b^j-id.;  no  second  class). 

From  Liverpool  to  (25  M.)  Olazebrook,  see  pp.  338,  337.  —  35  M. 
Cheadle  (White  Hart},  witli  8252  inhab. ;  38  M.  Stockport,  see 
p.  345.  At  (43  M.)  Qodley  Junction  we  join  the  Manchester  line. 
The  train  now  enters  Longdendale,  an  elevated  moorland  district, 
flanked  with  hills. 

Longdendale  is  filled  with  the  huaie  reservoirs  of  the  Manchester  Water 
Works,  with  an  aggregate  capacitv  of  5.000,(X)0,aX)  gallons.  The  largest 
is  that  at  Woodhead  (p.  366),  holding  1,235,(X)0,000  gallons. 


366     Route  45.  SHEFFIELD.  From  Liverpool 

48  M.  Dinting,  where  the  Etherow  is  crossed  by  a  viaduct  136  ft. 
high,  is  the  junction  of  a  short  line  to  (1  M.)  Olossop  (Norfolk 
Arms;  Howard  Arms),  a  town  with  22,400  inhab.,  close  to  the  N. 
margin  of  the  Peak  (r.  46).  —  Beyond  (55  V2  M.)  Woodhead  we 
pass  through  a  tunnel  3  M.  long,  one  end  of  which  is  in  Cheshire 
and  the  other  in  Yorkshire.  At  (58^2  M.)  Dunford  Bridge  the 
line  enters  the  valley  of  the  Don,  which  it  follows  to  Sheffield. 

64  M.  Penistone  (Rose  8,^  Crown;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  a 
small  town  with  2553  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Hudders- 
lield  (p.  345)  and  Barnsley.  —  Our  line  now  turns  to  the  S.  Beyond 
(68  M.)  Wortley  we  enter  Wharncliffe  Chase,  a  pretty,  wooded 
district.  The  hill  called  the  Dragons  Den  takes  its  name  from  the 
tradition  that  the  Dragon  of  Wantley  was  slain  here.  Wharncliffe 
Lodge  (left)  was  the  home  of  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Montague. 

76  M.  Sheffield.  —  Railway  Stations.  Victoria,  on  the  N.E.  side  of 
the  town,  close  to  the  Don,  for  the  G.  N.  R.  and  the  Manchester,  Sheffield, 
(fc  Lincolnshire  Railway.  Midland,  in  Sheaf  St.,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
town,  for  the  Mid.  Railway.  —  Cab  from  either  station  into  the  town,  Is. 

Hotels.  Victoria,  connected  with  the  Victoria  Station;  Wharncliffe, 
King  St. ;  Midland,  Midland  Station  5  Rotal,  Waingate,  opposite  the  Town 
Hall.  —  King's  Head;   Angel;  Macnche;  Albany  Temperance. 

Theatres.  Theatre  Royal,  City  Theatre,  Tudor  St.;  Alexandra  Theatre, 
Blonk  St. ;  £mpire  Theatre,  Pinhtone  St. 

U.  S.  Consul,  B.  R.  Bedle,  Esq.,  11  Bank  St.  —  Vice-Consul,  F.  M.  Clark.Esq. 

Sheffield,  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  towns  of  England, 
with  324,243  inhab.,  lies  in  the  district  of  Hallamshire,  in  the  West 
Riding  of  Yorkshire,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Don  and  the  Sheaf. 
Though  itself  unprepossessing  and  smoke-begrimed,  it  is  pleasantly 
situated  at  the  E.  base  of  the  range  of  hills  forming  the  backbone 
of  England.  It  was  described  by  Horace  Walpole  as  'one  of  the 
foulest  towns  of  England  in  the  most  charming  situation'. 

The  history  of  Sheflield  is  comparatively  uneventful,  and  the  time  of 
its  foundation  is  doubtful.  At  the  Norman  Conquest  it  belonged  to  Earl 
Waltheof ,  the  'last  of  the  Saxon  barons\  who  forfeited  his  head  by  an 
unsuccessful  rising  against  William  the  Conqueror.  The  manor  finally  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Howards,  whose  representative,  the  Duke  of 
Norfolk,  still  owns  a  large  part  of  the  town.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  passed 
twelve  years  of  her  captivity  here  in  the  custody  of  the  Earl  of  Shrews- 
bury, but  the  old  castle  in  which  part  of  that  time  was  spent  was  demolished 
in  the  Civil  War.  Sheflield  seems  to  have  early  acquired  a  reputation 
for  its  blades,  and  the  Miller  in  the  'Canterbury  Tales'  is  furnished  with 
a  'Sheflield  thvN-ytel  in  his  hose\  In  1736  its  population  was  only  14,105, 
and  even  in  1801  it  did  not  exceed  45,000.  In  the  present  century  the  his- 
tory of  Sheffield  has  been  closely  connected  with  that  of  Trades  Unionism. 

Sheflield  enjoys  a  world-wide  reputation  for  its  Cutlery,  Files,  Silver 
and  Plated  Wares,  Ai'mour  Plates,  Steel  Guns,  Shells,  and  other  heavy  Iron 
and  Steel  Goods.  The  town  itself  is  almost  entirely  given  over  to  factor- 
ies and  business-premises ,  while  the  residential  suburbs  spread  up  the 
slopes  of  the  hills  on  every  side.  Few  visitors  to  Sheffield  will  fail  to 
take  some  interest  in  the  wonderful  mechanical  processes  that  may  here 
be  studied  to  perfection,  such  as  file  and  saw  grinding,  electro-plating, 
plate-rolling,  and  the  conversion  of  iron  into  steel  by  the  Bessemer  process. 

Almost  the  only  interesting  public  building  is  *St.  Peter's 
Church,  in  a  prominent  situation  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 


to  London.  SHEFFIELD.  45.  Route.     367 

Originally  daling  from  the  I4th  and  15th  cent.  (Dec.  and  Perp.),  the 
church  has  undergone  considerahle  alterations  at  various  times-,  but  the 
last  restoration,  in  1876-80,  aimed  at  a  return  to  the  ancient  plan.  The 
Shrewsbury  Chapel  contains  monuments  of  the  Earls  of  Shrewsbury,  in- 
cluding that  of  ^ueen  Mary's  gaoler  (see  p.  366),  with  an  epitaph  by  Foxe. 

In  Church  St.,  to  the  S.  of  St.  Peter's,  is  the  Cutlers'  Hall,  in 
the  Corinthian  style,  containing  a  few  portraits  and  busts. 

The  Cutleri'  Company  was  incorporated  in  1624,  and  the  office  of 
Master  Cutler  is  still  the  highest  honorary  dignity  that  the  townspeople 
have  to  bestow.  The  annual  Cutlers'  Feast,  held  on  the  lirst  Thurs.  in  Sept., 
is  used,  like  the  Lord  Mayors  Banquet,  for  a  display  of  political  oratory. 
The  chief  privilege  of  the  company  is  the  right  of  granting  trade-marks. 

High  St.,  the  E.  prolongation  of  Church  St.,  leads  to  the  Market 
Place,  with  the  Meat  and  Poultry  Market.  To  the  N.  are  the  Market 
Hall  and  the  Corn  Exchange.  Adjacent,  at  the  corner  of  Castle  St., 
is  the  old  Toun  Hall.  The  handsome  new  Municipal  Buildings  (for- 
mally opened  in  May,  1897)  are  situated  at  the  corner  of  Pinstone 
St.  and  Surrey  St.  —  The  FirtJi  College,  at  the  corner  of  Bow  and 
Leopold  St.,  founded  in  1879,  is  open  to  both  sexes.  It  is  an  'af- 
filiated college'  of  the  Universities  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  1  M.  from  St.  Peter's,  is  the  Weston 
Park,  which  is  embellished  with  a  statue  of  Ebenezer  Elliot,  the 
'Corn  Law  Pihymer',  born  near  Sheffield  in  1781.  Here  also  are  the 
Public  Museum  (open  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  &  Sat.  10-9 ;  on  Wed.  &  Thurs. 
10  till  dusk),  containing  antiquities  and  objects  illustrating  the 
local  manufactures,  and  the  Mappin  Art  Gallery  (open  on  Sun.  1-5; 
on  Mon.  &  Sat.  10-9;  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  &  Thurs.  10-7;  in  winter 
closed  at  dusk),  opened  in  1887,  containing  modern  pictures. 

At  Heeley,  iVs  M.  to  the  S.  (railway,  omnibus,  or  tramway),  is  Meershrook 
Hall,  acquired  by  the  town  in  1889,  which  now  contains  the  St.  George's 
Museum,  founded  by  Ruskin ,  including  paintings  (one  by  Verrocchio), 
drawings  (Turner,  Ruskin),  photographs,  casts,  minerals,  coins,  etc.  The 
grounds  are  now  a  public  park. 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  St.  Peter's  is  the  Manor  House  of  the* 
Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  where  Mary ,  Queen  of  Scots,  spent  much  of  her 
time  during  the  12  years  she  was  in  charge  of  the  sixth  Earl.  —  A  little 
to  the  W.  is  Norfolk  Park.,  from  which  we  return  to  the  centre  of  the 
town  by  the  Norfolk  Road,  passing  Shrewsbury  Hospital.  —  Visits  may  also 
be  paid  to  the  Botanical  Gardens,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town  (member's 
order  necessary);  and  the  Cemetery,  with  the  grave  of  James  Montgomery, 
the  poet  (also  to  the  S.W.). 

Among  the  interesting  points  in  the  environs  of  Sheffield  are  Beau- 
chief  Abbey  (see  below);  Wharncliffe  Woods  (p.  366),  to  the  N.W.  (adm. 
on  Mon.,   Wed.,  &  Sat.);    Worksop' iinA  the  Bakeries  (p.  368),  etc. 

Coaches  also  run  to  Baslow  (see  p.  8T5)  and  other  points  in  the  dis- 
trict. A  good  route  for  walkers  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Rivelin  to  (18  M.) 
the  Snake  Inn,  and  crosses  thence  into  Edale  (comp.  p.  377). 

Fkom  Sheffield  to  Buxton,  32  M.,  Midland  Railway  in  IVs-l'/a  hr. 
(fi.res  45.  2d.,  2s.  Qd.).  This  picturesque  route,  by  the  ''Dore  db  Chinley 
Line\  traverses  the  Peak  (R  46j.  —  li/a  M.  Heeley.  see  above.  4  M. 
Beauchief.  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  Beauchief  Abbey  (12th  cent.).  Beyond 
(41/2  M.)  Dove  and  Totley  the  line  turns  to  the  W.,  passes  through  a  tun- 
nel 8  M.  long,  and  enters  the  vallev  of  the  Derwent.  —  9  M.  Grindleford, 
21/2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Eyam  (p.  376).  —  11  M.  Hathersage  (p.  376).  —  We 
now  quit  the  myin  stream  and  follow  the  Xoe  (p.  376),  to  (13  M  )  Bnmfurd 
and  (15  M.)  Hope  (p.  376),   the  station  for  CasVeton  (p.  37b)  and  Bradicell. 


368     Route  45.  GRANTHAM.  From  Liverpool 

Beyond  Hope  the  train  runs  between  Winn  Hill  (1530  ft.),  on  the  right, 

and  Lose  Hill  (1570  it.),  on  the  left,  and  enters  the  sequestered  Edale. 
20  M.  Edale  Station  (Inn)  is  a  convenient  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  Kin- 
der Scout  (2080  ft.),  the  highest  part  of  the  Peak  (p.  377).  The  train  leaves 
Edale  by  the  Cowburn  Tunnel  (2  M.  long)  and  soon  reaches  a  Y,  thrright 
i.rm  of  which  leads  to  (25V2  M.)  GMnley  (p.  356),  the  left  to  ('2572  M.) 
Chapel-en-le-Frith  (p.  377).     Thence  to  (32  M.)  Buxton,  see  p.  377. 

Beyond  Sheffield  our  line  runs  towards  the  E.  —  SO'^M.Wood- 
house  is  the  junction  for  Botherham  and  Chesterfield  (p.  409),  and 
(89M.)  Shireoaks  for  Mansfield.  —  92  M.  Worksop  (Lion;  Royal),  an 
agricultural  town  with  12,734  inhah. ,  manufactures  malt.  The  Church, 
a  Norman  building  with  later  alterations,  is  a  relic  of  an  old  priory. 

The  district  round  Worksop  is  known  as  the  'Dukeries'',  from  the 
number  of  ducal  residences  it  contains.  The  most  interesting  is  Wel- 
beck  Abbey,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Portland,  which  lies  4  M.  to  the 
S.  W.  It  is  approached  by  a  tunnel  2  M.  long,  leading  to  a  curious 
series  of  underground  apartments,  including  a  large  library,  a  ball-room, 
a  picture-gallery  (with  good  paintings),  and  a  riding-school.  —  Worksop 
Manor,  adjoining  the  town  on  the  S.W.,  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle. —  Clumber  Park,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  lies  2y-i  M. 
to  the  S.E.  It  contains  a  good  collection  of  portraits.  The  grounds  are 
open  to  the  public  thrice  a  week.  —  Other  fine  country-houses  within 
access  are  Thoreshy  (Earl  Manvers)  and  Rufford  Abbey  (Lord  Savile).  All 
these  mansions  are  surrounded  with  linely-wooded  parks,  open  to  the 
public.  —  About  10  M.  to  the  S.  is  Sherwood  Forest,  the  greenwood  home 
of  Robin  Hood,  still  containing  many  fine  trees.  Ollerton  (Hop  Pole) 
affords  good  headquarters. 

At  [100  M.)  Retford  (White  Hart)  the  train  joins  the  main  line 
of  the  G.  N.  railway  and  turns  to  the  S. 

Retford  is  also  the  junction  of  a  line  N.E.  to  Gainsborough  (p.  437), 
Hull  (p.  432),  and  Grimsby  (p.  434)  ;  and  of  another  S.E.  to  Lincoln  (p.  434). 

The  region  now  traversed  is  famous  for  its  fruit-culture.  — 
118  M.  Newark  -  on  -  Trent  (Clinton  Arms;  Midland;  Saracens 
Head;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  an  old  town  with  14,457  inhab.  and 
large  breweries  and  plaster-of-Paris  works. 

The  old  Castle,  dating  from  the  i2th  cent.,  was  dismantled  after  sus- 
taining three  sieges  in  the  Civil  War.  King  John  died  here  in  1216.  The 
Grounds  were  opened  as  a  public  garden  in  1889.  The  Parish  Church,  a 
Perp.  edifice  with  a  lofty  spire,  contains  an  unusually  fine  brass.  —  Newark 
is  the  junction  of  the  Nottingham  and  Lincoln  line  (see  R.  56)  and  of  a 
line  to  Melton  Mowbray  (p.  360). 

At  [129  M.)  Barkstone  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the  left  to 
Boston  (p.  437)  and  Lincoln  (p.  434). 

133  M.  Grantham  (Angel,  well  spoken  of;  George,  both  near 
the  church,  1/2  M.  from  the  station;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  a 
small  and  ancient  town  with  16,750  inhab.  and  large  iron-works. 
Its  principal  attraction  is  its  fine  church,  to  reach  which  we  turn 
to  the  left  on  leaving  the  station  [on  the  side  next  the  town). 
On  the  way  we  cross  St.  Peter  s  Hill,  an  open  space  adorned  with  a 
statue  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  i^iQ-i2-i72T),  who  was  born  at  WooZsfftorpe, 
7  M.  to  the  W.,  and  educated  at  Grantham  grammar-school.  The 
*  Church  of  St.  Wulfram  is  a  handsome  structure,  mainly  in  the 
E.E.  style  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  quaint  and  interesting  gargoyles. 


to  London.  PETERBOROUGH.  45.  Route.     369 

It  has  a  graceful  spire,  280  ft.  high,  and  contains  some  interest- 
ing monuments.    The  Library  contains  300  chained  volumes. 

The  Angel  Inn  is  a  quaint  old  building,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
Knights  Templar  and  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  when  King  .John  is  said 
to  have  held  a  court  here  (1213).  It  was  here,  too,  that  Richard  III.  signed 
the  death-warrant  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham. 

Grantham  is  the  lirst  stopping-place  of  the  'Flying  Scotsman"  express 
from  London  to  Edinburgh,  after  an  unbroken  run  of  1U5  M.  Lines  radiate 
hence  to  Nottingham.,  Lincoln.,  and  Boston  (via  Sleaford). 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Belton  House.,  the  seat  of  Earl  Brownlow, 
with  some  good  paintings.  —  Belvoir  Castle  (pron.  Beevor),  the  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Rutland,  7  M.  to  the  W.,  contains  tapestry,  armour,  and  pictures. 

From  (150  M.)  Essendine  a  branch-line  diverges  on  the  left  to 
Spalding  and  Boston,  and  another  on  the  right  to  (4  M.)  Stamford. 

Stamford  (George;  Stamford  Arms)  is  an  ancient  town,  with  four  fine 
churches,  two  old  gateways,  and  the  scanty  remains  of  a  priory.  The 
'Stamford  Mercury'  was  the  earliest  English  newspaper  (1712).  About 
IV2  M.  to  the  S.  is  '  Burghley  House  (open  11-5),  the  seat  of  the  Marquis 
of  Exeter,  a  fine  Renaissance  buildinz,  with  some  good  paintings,  and 
carvings  by  Grinling  Gibbons.  —  At  Bourn  (Angel;  Bull),  on  the  line  to 
Sleaford,  was  the  ancient  Saxon  camp,  in  which  'Hereward,  the  last  of 
the  English',  made  his  determined  stand  against  the  Conqueror. 

162  M.  Peterborough  (*Oreat  Northern  Hotel,  at  the  G.  N.  R. 
station,  R.  &  A.  4s. ;  Grand,  B.  2s. -2s.  Qd.,  D.  3s.  Gd.,  well  spoken 
of;  Angel,  Bull,  in  the  town),  an  ancient  city  with  25,172inhab., 
on  the  Nene.  To  reach  its  celebrated  cathedral  we  walk  straight  from 
the  station  towards  the  E. ,  passing  the  Church  of  St.  John  (lately 
restored),  with  a  15th  cent,  tower,   and  crossing  the  market-place. 

The  *Cathedral  is  one  of  the  most  important  Norman  churches 
left  in  England,  though  the  first  glance  at  the  exterior  does  not 
seem  to  bear  out  this  assertion.  The  elaborate  and  somewhat  for- 
eign-looking *  West  Facade,  with  its  recessed  arches  (81  ft.  high), 
gables,  parvise,  and  sculptures,  is,  however,  a  later  addition  (ca. 
1220?),  and  forms,  as  it  were,  a  screen  in  front  of  the  original  W. 
wall.  Its  restoration  was  begun  in  Jan.  1897.  The  cathedral  is 
471  ft.  long,  81  ft.  wide,  and  81  ft.  high ;  the  great  transept  is 
202  ft.  in  length,  and  the  N.  W.  tower  188  ft.  high.  The  daily  ser- 
vices are  at  10  a.m.  and  5.30  p.m.  The  building,  now  being  restored, 
is  open  free  of  charge ;  adm.  to  the  tower  6d. 

The  present  building  is  the  third  church  on  this  site.  The  first  was 
founded  by  Penda,  King  of  3Iercia,  in  656,  as  the  church  of  the  Bene- 
dictine monastery  of  Medeshamstede,  which  afterwards  became  one  of  the 
most  important  of  Engli>!h  abbeys.  This  church  was  destroyed  by  the 
Danes  in  870-3.  The  second  was  founded  in  971  and  burned  down  in 
1116.  The  oldest  part  now  standing  is  the  choir,  consecrated  about  1140. 
The  great  transept  dates  from  1155-77,  the  late-Norman  nave  from  1177-93, 
and  the  W.  transepts,  in  the  Transition  style,  from  1103-1200  (see  above). 
A  series  of  uniform  Dee.  windows  was  added  throughout  the  church  in 
the  14th  cent.,  and  the  retro-choir,  or  'New  Building',  is  a  Perp.  fan-vaulted 
structure  of  143S-1528.  The  spires  and  pinnacles  of  the  flanking  turrets  of 
the  W.  facade  are  of  the  Dec.  and  Perp.  periods.  The  N."W.  tower,  behind 
that  of  the  W.  front,  was  added  about  1265-70.  The  fine  central  tower, 
which  was  erected  in  the  14th  cent,  in  place  of  the  Norman  lantern,  was 
condemned  as  unsafe  in  18S3,  and  has  been  rebuilt  by  Mr  Pearson.  Pe- 
terborough was  made  a  bishop's  see  in  1541. 

Baedeker  s  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit.  24 


370     Route  45.  HUNTINGDON.  From  Liverpool 

From  the  market-place  we  enter  the  cathedral-precincts  by  the  Western 
Gateway^  dating  originally  from  1177-93-,  to  the  left  is  the  chancel  of  the 
Becktt  Chapel  (TDec.),  now  used  as  a  museum  of  natural  history.  We  then 
reach  a  spacious  court  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral,  with 
two  other  old  gateways,  that  on  the  right  leading  to  the  Bishop's  Palace^ 
that  on  the  left  to  the  Deanery  (the  old  Prior's  House). 

The  *  Interior  t:ives  an  impression  of  unusual  lightness  for  Norman 
architecture.  In  1643  it  suffered  very  severely  from  the  iconoclasm  of  the 
Puritans,  who  destroyed  the  reredos,  the  fine  stained-glass  windows,  and 
most  of  the  monuments  and  sculptural  decoration.  In  the  course  of  the 
recent  restoration  it  was  found  that  the  apparently  solid  Norman  piers 
were  merely  shells  filled  with  rubble,  and  that  their  builders  had  strange- 
ly neglected  to  go  down  to  the  solid  rock,  here  only  3-4  ft.  below  the 
original  foundations.  The  clerestory  and  triforium  of  the  Nave  are  very 
important  in  size,  and  the  effect  produced  is  remarkably  good.  The  painted 
wooden  ceiling  dates  from  the  12th  century.  The  arches  of  the  central  tower 
were  changed  from  circular  to  pointed  at  the  close  of  the  14lh  century. 
To  the  N.  of  the  W.  door  is  a  portrait  of  Old  Scarlett  (d.  1594),  the  sexton 
who  buried  Catherine  of  Aragon  and  Mary  Stuart  (see  below);  to  the  S. 
is  the  ancient  Font.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  N.  Transept  are  two  blocked- 
up  arches,  leading  to  the  site  of  the  Lady  Chapel  (i'2%),  of  which  little  re- 
mains. The  timber  roof  of  the  transepts  is  probably  the  earliest  of  the 
kind  in  England.  —  The  Choir  or  Presbtteky  has  an  apsidal  termination, 
which  is  still  in  situ.,  standing  within  the  'new  building".  The  fine  roof 
is  of  the  Perp.  period.  In  the  N.  choir-aisle  is  the  grave  of  Queen  Cathe- 
rine of  Aragon  (d.  1548);  and  in  the  corresponding  part  of  the  S.  aisle 
is  a  slab  showing  the  former  resting-place  of  Mary^  Queen  of  Scots  (d.  1587), 
whose  remains  are  now  in  Westminster  Abbey  (see  Baedeker's  London). 
The  monuments  of  both  were  destroyed  by  the  Puritans-,  but  a  tablet  to 
the  Scottish  Queen,  subscribed  fur  by  ladies  in  England  bearing  the  Christian 
name  of  3Iary,  was  placed  near  her  former  grave  in  1895. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  nave  are  the  extensive  remains  of  the 
Cloisters,  the  Refectory^  and  other  monastic  buildings. 

About  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Peterborough  is  Milton  Park.  —  The  inter- 
esting ruined  church  of  "Crowland  Abbey  (12-15th  cent. ;  adm.  6cf.),  9V2  M. 
to  the  N.  of  Peterborough;  may  be  reached  by  carriage,  or  by  train  to 
Peakirk  or  Eye  Green  (see  below) ,  each  about  5  M.  from  the  abbey.  — 
Excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Peterborough  to  Castor,  Fotheringay, 
and  Warmington  (see  p.  256). 

From  Peterborough  to  Sutton  Bridge,  28  M.,  railway  in  11/4  hr. 
(fares  3s.  iOd.,  2s.  iy2d.).  The  first  station  is  (6  M.)  Eye  Green  (see  above). 
9  M.  Thomey,  with  a  ruined  abbey.  21  M.  Wisbech  (Rose  d-  Crown),  a  small 
town  on  the  A''e?ie ,  is  also  a  station  on  the  G.E.E,.  line  from  March  to 
Ly/m.  —  28  M.  Sutton  Bridge.  Trains  from  Peterborough  run  through  to 
(39  31.)  Lynn  (p.  450),  where  they  join  the  lines  for  Yarmouth,  Norwich,  etc. 

From  Peterborough  to  Northampton,  see  p.  256;  to  Boston,  see  p.  437. 

Leaving  Peterborough,  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  cathedral 
to  the  left.  We  now  traverse  the  flat  district  known  as  the  Fens.  From 
(^169  M.)  Holme  a  branch  diverges  to  (6  M.)i2amsej/ (Anchor),  with 
a  few  relics  of  a  Benedictine  abbey.  About  2  M.  to  the  right  of  the 
line  is  Stilton,  which  has  given  its  name  to  a  well-known  cheese. 

178'/2  M.  Huntingdon  (George;  Fountain),  a  small  town  on 
the  Ouse,  with  4350  inhab.,  was  the  birthplace  of  Oliver  Cromwell 
(1599-1658),  the  entry  of  whose  birth  is  preserved  in  the  register 
of  St.  John's  Church.  The  Grammar  School  in  which  the  Protector 
was  educated  has  been  restored.  The  restored  churches  of  St.  Mary 
and  All  Saints  are  worthy  of  notice.   The  poet  Cowper  (1731-1800) 


to  London.  DERBYSHIRE  PEAK.         45.  Route.    371 

lived  at  Huntingdon  with  the  Unwins  in  1765-67.  To  the  right, 
near  the  station,  is Hinchingbrook,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Sandwich. 
From  Huntingrlon  a  joint  line  of  the  G.N.R.  and  G.E.R.  runs  E.  to 
(6  M.)  St.  Ives  (TMicorn;,  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  believed  to  have  been 
a  Saxon  settlement.  Its  foundation  is  ascribed  to  a  Persian  saint,  St.  Ivo. 
Lines  radiate  hence  to  March  (Lynn),  Ely  (p.  448;  Norwich,  Yarmouth),  and 
Cambridge  (p.  440). 

186  M.  St.  Neot's  (Cross  Keys),  with  a  good  Perp.  church.  At 
(1931/2  M.)  Sandy  we  cross  the  L.N.W.  line  from  Oxford  to  Cam- 
bridge" (^p.  363).  —  206  M.  Hitchin  (Sun;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
a  thriving  little  country-town,  with  manufactories  of  lavender- 
water.  It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Cambridge  and  Bedford  (comp. 
p.  363).  —  213  M.  Knebworth,  with  the  seat  of  Lord  Lytton.  — 
220  M.  Hatfield  (Red  Lion;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  small  market- 
town  on  the  Lea,  with  a  large  church. 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  in  a  beautiful  park ,  is  ''Hatfield 
House,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  a  stately  .Jacobean  mansion 
(1611),  containing  interesting  family-portraits  and  a  valuable  collection  of 
historical  MSS.  (visitors  admitted  in  the  absence  of  the  family).  There 
are  also  a  few  remains  of  the  original  palace  here,  built  in  the  12th  cent. 
by  the  Bishops  of  Ely,  and  afterwards  a  royal  residence.  It  was  in  this 
older  house  that  the  Princess  Elizabeth  received  the  news  of  her  acces- 
sion to  the  throne;  and  a  fine  oak  in  the  Park  is  pointed  out  as  marking 
the  limits  of  the  walks  allowed  her  while  confined  here.  Charles  I.  was 
also  imprisoned  for  a  short  time  at  Hatfield.  The  grounds  are  fine.  — 
About  2V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Hatfield  is  Brocket  Hall,  successively  the  resi- 
dence of  Lord  Melbourne  (d.  1848)  and  Lord  Palmerston  (d.   1865). 

From  Hatfield  lines  diverge  to  St.  Albans  (p.  364),  Luton  (p.  364),  and 
Hertford  (Salisbury  Arms;  Diimdale  Hotel),  on  the  Lea,  with  the  remains 
of  a  castle  of  the  10th  cent,  and  one  of  the  17th  cent.,  now  used  as  a 
school.  To  the  W.  of  Hertford  is  Panshanger,  the  seat  of  Earl  Cowper, 
with  a  fine  collection  of  paintings.     Comp.  Baedeker's  London. 

231 Y2  J^-  ^«^  Southgate,  the  station  for  Colney  Hatch  Lunatic 
Asylum,  the  extensive  buildings  of  which  lie  to  the  right. 
238  M.  London  (King's  Cross),  see  Baedeker  s  London. 

d.  From  Liverpool  to  London  vi§.  Shrewsbury,  Birmingham, 
and  Oxford. 

229  M.  Great  Western  Railway  in  6-8  hrs.  (fares,  see  p.  351).  Through- 
trains  run  daily  by  this  route;  the  journey  may  be  broken  at  Hatton 
(p.  247)  for  a  visit  "to  Stratford-on-Avon  (p.  248). 

The  different  sections  of  this  route  have  been  already  de- 
scribed. From  Liverpool  to  (16 '/o  M.)  Chester,  see  R.  42 ;  from  Chester 
to  (42  xM.)  Shrewsbury,  see  R.  40;  from  Shrewsbury  to  (42  M.)  Bir- 
mingham, see  R.  38;  from  Birmingham  to  (66  M.)  Oxford,  see 
R.  34;  from  Oxford  to  (63  M.)  London  (Paddington),  see  R.  31. 

46.    The  Derbyshire  Peak. 

The  hilly  district  generally  known  as  the  Peak  includes  the  high- 
lands in  the  N.W.  of  Derbyshire  and  parts  of  the  adjacent  counties.  It 
may  be  said,  roughly,  to  extend  from  Ashbourne  (p.  380)  on  the  S.  to 
Glossop  (p.  366)  on  the  N.,  and  from  Buxton  (p.  377)  on  the  W.  to  Chester- 
field (p.  409)  on  the  E.,   comprising  an  area  30  M.  long  and  22  M.  broad. 

24* 


372     Route  46.  MATLOCK.  The  Derbyshire 

The  district  belongs  partly  to  the  gritstone,  and  partlj-^  to  the  limestone 
formation.  The  highest  summits  are  Kindericout  (2080  ft.),  on  the  Is".;  Axe 
Edge  (1810  ft.),  near  Buxton;  and  ^fam  Tor  (1710  ft.),  near  Castleton.  In 
spite  of  the  name,  the  hills  have  rounded  and  not  pointed  summits,  and 
there  is  nothing  in  the  scenery  which  can  be  called  mountainous.  The 
so-called  High  Peak,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  district,  consists  mainly  of  a 
series  of  bleak  moorland  hills  or  plateaux,  little  diversified  by  wood  or 
water.  The  chief  centres  of  attraction  are  the  rocky  and  wooded  valleys,  of 
the  Dove  (p.  379),  the  Derwent  (at  Matlock,  see  beiovv),  and  the  Wye  (Bux- 
ton, p.  377);  the  ancient  house  of  Haddon  (p.  373);  the  modern  mansion 
of  C/iaisworth  (p.  375);  and  the  Castleton  Caverns  (p.  376).  All  of  these  may 
be  visited  from  Derby,  though  rather  hurriedly,  in  4  days.  1st  Day  :  From 
Derby  by  train  to  Cromford ,  16  M. ;  from  Cromford  by  road  to  Matlock, 
2  M.;  from  Matlock  by  train  to  Rowsley,  41/2  M.;  from  P^owsley  to  Had- 
don Hall  by  road,  2  M. ;  from  Haddon  to  Chatsworth  by  road,  51/2  M.; 
from  Chatsworth  to  Edensor .  V2  M.  [Or  from  Haddon  to  Edensor  5  M., 
leaving  Chatsworth  for  the  next  morning.]  —  2sd  Dat  :  From  Edensor  or 
Chatsworth  to  Eyam  and  Castleton  by  road,  16  M.;  visit  the  Caverns;  if 
time  allows,  ascend  Mam  Tor.  —  3rd  Day:  From  Castleton  to  Chapel-en- 
le-Frith  and  Buxton  by  railway;  from  Buxton  through  Cheedale  to  Mill- 
er's Dale  on  foot,  6  M. ;  back  to  Buxton  by  train.  [Or  we  may  go  on 
by  train  from  Miller's  Dale  to  Bakewell,  and  walk  or  drive  thence  to 
(11  M.)  Alstone field.]  —  4th  Dat:  From  Buxton  to  Alstonefield  by  road, 
14  M.;  through  Dovedale  by  footpath,  4  M. ;  from  the  lower  end  of  Dove- 
dale  to  Ashbourne  by  road ,"  4  M. ;  from  Ashbourne  to  Derby  by  railway, 
30  M.  [The  new  line  from  Buxton  to  Ashbourne  (p.  330)  may  be  used  as 
far  as  it  is  open.]  —  The  round  may  be  equally  well  made  in  the  oppo- 
site direction ;  and  those  staying  in  Manchester  may  begin  it  at  Buxton 
(train  from  Manchester  to  Buxton  in  l-lV2hr. ;  fares  35.  9d.,  25. 9d.,  U.iiyzd.). 
The  Peak  may  also  be  approached  from  Sheffield  (comp.  p.  366). 

Railway  from  Derby  to  (16  M.)  Cromford,  see  R.  45  b.  Cromford 
lies  at  the  lower  (S.)  end  of  the  narrow  part  of  the  Derwent  Volley, 
the  picturesque  limestone  formations  of  which  have  made  Matlock 
famous.  The  direct  road  to  (1  M.)  Matlock  turns  to  the  right,  a 
few  hundred  yards  from  the  station,  beyond  the  bridge. 

A  pleasant  round  may  be  made  by  turning  to  the  left  and  proceeding 
through  the  village  and  along  the  Wirksworth  road  to  the  (IV2  M.)  Black 
Rocks,  a  good  point  of  view.  We  then  follow  the  road  to  (V2  M.)  Middleton 
Cross,  turn  to  the  right,  and  at  the  (IV2M.)  farther  end  of  Middleton  follow  the 
road  slanting  down  the  hill  to  (1/2  M.)  Fader  Point.  Here  we  turn  to  the  right 
and  descend  the  valley  called  the  Via  Gellia  to  (IM.)  the  Pig  of  Lead  Inn, 
whence  we  proceed  to"  the  left  to  O/2  M.)  Bonsall  and  (IV2  M.)  Matlock  Bath. 

Matlock.  —  Hotels.  At  Matlock  Bath:  ~New  Bath,  with  baths  and 
a  wonderful  lime-tree  in  the  garden,  D,  45.  6d.,  R.  &  A.  from  45.,  board 
85.;  Royal,  with  baths;  Temple;  Tekkace;  these  first-class,  on  the  hill- 
side, with  views.  —  Devonshire,  Hodgkinson's  ,  plain.  —  At  Matlock 
Bridge:  Old  English;  Crown;  Brown's  Temperance.  —  Xi  Matlock  Bank: 
Queen's  Head;  Wheatsheaf  ,  both  unpretending.  Also  Smedley"s,  Mat- 
lock House,  Rockside,    and  several  other  hydropathics. 

Excursion-Brakes  in  summer  to  Haddon,  Chatsworth,   Dovedale,  etc. 

As  there  are  several  Malverns  (see  p.  190)  ,  so  there  are  also 
four  Matlocks  —  Matlock  Bath ,  Matlock  Bridge  ,  Matlock  Village, 
and  Matlock  Bank  —  extending  along  the  Dericent  for  about  2  M. 
and  containing  a  joint  population  of  about  7000.  The  first  of  these 
is  situated  in  the  very  centre  of  the  romantic  gorge  which  the  Der- 
went here  forms,  and  is  the  best  headquarters  for  tourists.  Matlock 
Bridge  lies  in  the  floor  of  the  valley,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  gorge, 
and  is  the  railway- station  for  Matlock  Bank,   situated  on  the  hill- 


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Peak.  HADDON.  46.  Route.     373 

side  a"boYe,  and  consisting  to  a  great  extent  of  hydropathic  estab- 
lishments, boarding-houses,  and  lodgings.  Matlock  Village  lies  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  High  Tor,  opposite  Matlock  Bank.  The  tepid 
springs  (68°),  for  bathing,  are  at  Matlock  Bath,  and  may  be  used  at 
the  New  Bath  Hotel,  the  Royal  Hotel,  and  the  Fountain  Baths.  — 
Directions  for  finding  the  way  to  points  of  interest  are  unnecessary, 
as  the  sign-posts  and  placards  are  only  too  conspicuous. 

On  the  right  (E.)  side  of  the  ravine,  opposite  Matlock  Bath,  is  the 
*High  Tor,  an  abrupt  limestune  rock,  rising  400  ft.  above  the  river  and 
commanding  a  good  *Vie\v  of  the  valley  (adm.  4d.)-  At  the  top,  on  the 
side  farthest  from  the  valley,  is  the  so-called  "Fern  Cave  (adm.  \d.).  a 
curions  narrow  fissure  in  the  rock,  150  ft.  deep.  The  Roman  Cave  is  a 
similar  but  less  striking  crevice.  The  large  house  on  the  hill  to  the  E.  is 
Riher  Hall,  built  by  Mr.  Smedley  of  the  hydropathic.  A  new  carriage-drive 
leads  from  the  top  of  the  High  Tor  to  Matlock  Bridge  and   Village. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  rise  the  Heights  of  Abraham  (adm.  6d. ; 
*View),  a  buttress  of  the  MaKson  (1100  ft.).  Near  the  tower  marking  the 
Heights  are  the  Rutland  Cavern  (adm.  6d.)  and  the   Old  Roman  Cave. 

On  the  side  of  the  hill,  at  the  back  of  the  Matlock  Rath  hotels,  are 
the  ^Recreation  Grounds  (adm.  G(?.;  'Views),  containing  a  Concert  Pavilion 
and  the  Victoria  (not  shown)  and  Speedwell  Caverns.  —  Oi  the  other  caverns 
at  Matlock  (very  inferior  to  those  of  Castleton,  p.  376)  the  best  is  the 
Cumberland  Cave  (adm.  6c?.).  —  A  visit  may  be  paid  to  one  of  the  Petrify- 
ing Wells  (adm.  id.).  —  The  new  'Promenades^  on  both  banks  of  the  Der- 
went,  are  connected  by  an  ornamental  bridge. 

Longer  excursions  may  be  made  to  Bonsall,  Cromford.  and  the  Black 
Rocks;  to  (6  M.)  Crich  Stand  (view)  and  thence  to  (?V2  M.)  the  ruins  of 
Wingfield  Manor;  to  the  (9  M.)  Rowtor  Rocks;  to  (12  M.)  Chesterfield 
(p.  409);  to  Haddon  and  Chatsicorth  ;  and  to  (9  M.)  Lathkill  Dale. 

Railway  from  Matlock  Bridge  to  (4*/2  M.)  Rowslby  ,  see 
R.  45b.  —  DarleyDale  is  the  best  station  for  a  visit  to  the  picturesque 
Rowtor  Rocks  (3  M.  to  the  W. ;  entered  through  the  Druid  Inn). 

Kowsley  (* Peacock  Inn),  a  small  village  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Wye  and  the  Derwent,  is  the  starting-point 
for  a  visit  to  (l'/2M.)  Haddon  Hall.  Excursion-brakes  ply  to  Had- 
don [6d.)  and  Chatsworth  (Is.)- 

The  road  to  Haddon  turns  to  the  left  at  the  station  and  passes  under 
the  bridge.  At  the  'Peacock'  we  follow  the  road  to  the  extreme  left  and 
reach  (I  M.)  a  bridge  over  the  Wye.  Here  we  leave  the  road  by  a  stile 
to  the  right,  on  this  side  of  the  bridge,  and  follow  a  path  (indistinct  at 
first)  along  the  river  and  through  the  park  to  (10  min.)  Haddon  Hall. 

*Haddon  Hall,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  slope  rising  from  the 
Wye,  is  an  almost  ideal  specimen  of  an  old  English  baronial  man- 
sion, and,  though  unoccupied,  is  still  in  fair  preservation  (adm. 
free ;  gratuity  to  the  custodian"). 

Held  at  an  earlv  period  by  the  Avenel  family,  Haddon  came  in  the 
12th  cent,  into  the  hands  of  the  Vernons,  who  retained  possession  of  it 
for  400  years.  By  the  marriage  of  the  fair  Dorothy  Vernon  (p.  374)  it  passed 
to  the  Rutl  nd  family,  who  still  own  it,  though  the  Duke  lives  at  Belvoir 
(p.  369).  The  building  encloses  two  court-yards.  TheN.E.  tower  and  part 
of  the  chapel  are  late-Norman;  the  great  banqueting-hall,  between  the 
two  courts,  and  most  of  the  adjoining  block  date  from  the  I4th,  the  E. 
range  of  buildings  from  the  i5th ,  and  the  S.  facade  and  the  terraced 
gardens  from  the  end  of  the  16th  century. 

Interior.  The  rooms  are  generally  shown  in  the  following  order.  The 
Chaplain's  Room,  cuntaininj;  a  pair  of  jack-boots,  a  leathern  doublet,  etc.; 


374     Route  46.  BAKEWELL.  The  Derbyshire 

the  ''Chapel,  with  some  fine  Norman  work  and  a  stained-glass  window 
of  the  15th  century;  the  Kitchen,  with  enormous  fire-places;  the  "Ban- 
queting Hall,  35  ft.  long  and  25  ft.  wide,  with  a  dais,  a  minstrels'  gal- 
lery, and  some  old  paintings;  the  panelled  Dining  Room,  with  an  oriel 
window  overlooking  the  garden;  the  Dratcing  Room,  hung  with  old 
tapestry;  the  Earls  Dressing  -  Room  and  Bedroom;  the  fine  '-Ball  Room 
or  Gallery,  100  ft.  long,  with  oaken  wainscoting  and  floor;  the  Ante- 
Room;  the  State  Bedroom,  hung  with  tapestry,  with  a  bed,  dressing- 
table,  and  looking-glass  said  to  have  been  used  by  Queen  Elizabeth; 
the  Archers"  Room,  in  the  oldest  part  of  the  building;  and  the  Eagle  or 
Peveril's  Tower,  the  top  of  which  commands  a  fine  view.  We  then  return 
to  the  Ante-Room  (see  above)  and  descend  to  the  garden  by  a  flight  of 
steps,  said  to  have  been  used  by  Dorothy  Vernon  when  she  eloped  with 
Sir  John  Manners,  son  of  the  Earl  of  Rutland  (16th  cent.).  The  charming 
*View  here  of  the  S.  facade,  the  terrace,  and  the  old  yew-trees  is 
familiar  from  engravings  and  photographs. 

To  reach  Chatsworth  from  Haddon  by  carriage  (pedestrian  route, 
see  below),  without  returning  to  Rowsley,  we  follow  the  road  from 
the  above-mentioned  bridge  to  (21/2  M.)  Eakewell  (^Rutland  Arms, 
frequented  by  anglers),  the  ^ BadequelW  of  Domesday,  a  delight- 
fully situated  little  town,  with  2750  inhabitants.  The  large  *C/iwrc/i, 
with  its  lofty  octagonal  spire,  has  a  Norman  doorway,  and  contains 
an  ancient  font  and  the  monument  of  Dorothy  Vernon  (d.  1584) 
and  her  husband  (see  above).  A  Cross  in  the  churchyard  is  believed 
to  date  from  the  8th  or  9th  century.    The  baths  are  unimportant. 

About  13/4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Bakewell  is  the  village  of  Ashford 
(Devonshire  Arms),  with  a  pretty  church.  The  walk  may  be  continued 
to  (IVs  M.)  Monsal  Dale  (p.  356). 

At  Bakewell  we  turn  to  the  right  and  proceed  by  a  circuitous 
route  (direct  path  1  M.  shorter)  to  (3^/2  ^0  Edensor  (*Chatsworth 
Hotel),  a  model  village,  on  the  outskirts  of  Chatsworth  Park.  The 
church  contains  a  memorial-window  to  Lord  Frederick  Cavendish 
(assassinated  in  1882),  who  is  buried  in  the  churchyard. 

Direct  Walk  from  Haddon  to  Chatsworth,  31/2  M.  (IV4-IV2  hr.). 
We  ascend  the  flight  of  steps  by  the  cottage  opposite  the  entrance 
to  Haddon  and  follow  a  footpath,  which  almost  immediately  joins  a 
cart-track.  The  track  passes  to  the  left  of  an  old  bowling-green  and 
ascends  by  a  fence,  and  at  the  top,  to  the  left,  follows  a  wall,  to 
(8-10  min.)  a  gate,  opening  on  a  lane.  To  the  right  is  a  farm-house.  We 
pass  through  (2  min.)  another  gate  and  follow  a  green  lane.  At  (9  min.) 
a  gateway,  with  two  stone  posts  but  no  gate,  we  keep  to  the  left  branch 
of  the  lane  and  cross  a  ridge  between  two  valleys.  At  the  end  of  the 
ridge  we  enter  the  wood  by  a  (3  min.)  gate  and  after  8  min.  more  ascend 
to  the  left.  We  then  (1  min.)  ascend  to  the  right  by  a  track  skirting 
a  drain.  At  (4  min.)  the  top  of  the  wooded  hill  we  proceed  to  the 
left  along  the  wall  for  180  yds.  to  a  gate,  passing  through  which  we  cross 
a  field  diagonally  to  (5  min  j  another  gate.  This  opens  into  a  beech-plant- 
ation, on  leaving  which  we  emerge  upon  a  sloping  pasture.  The  path  is 
now  indistinct,  but  by  bearing  a  little  to  the  left,  somewhat  in  the  line  of 
a  dry  water-course,  we  reach  (7-8  min.)  a  stile  in  a  wall,  opposite  a  dam, 
which  crosses  a  small  pool  to  the  left  of  a  farm-house.  In  ascending  the 
cart-road  on  the  other  side  we  keep  to  the  right  beyond  the  gate,  and 
come  to  (5  min.)  a  broad  green  drive.  Here  we  proceed  to  the  right, 
towards  the  lodge,  and  at  the  end  of  the  drive  enter  the  wood  by  a 
(3  min.)  stile  adjoining  a  gate.  The  path  crosses  another  green  drive  and 
enters  Chatsworth  Park  by  (5  min.)  another  stile.  Chatsworth  is  now  in 
sight;  the  way  to  the  (V4  hr.)  bridge  is  to  the  left. 


Peak.  CHATSWORTH.  46.  Route.     375 

*Chatsworth,  the  magnificent  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire, 
is  a  striking  contrast  to  Hailiion  ,  the  one  being  as  redolent  of 
modem,  as  the  other  of  mediaeval  state. 

The  hu'/e  Palhidian  residence  of  the  Cavendishes,  560  ft.  long,  was 
built  in  1687-1706,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  edifice,  in  which  Mary  Stuart 
was  for  a  time  a  prisoner.  The  N.  wing  was  added  in  1820.  The  interior 
contains  a  large  collection  of  paintings,  drawings,  and  sculptures  by  emi- 
nent masters,  exquisite  wood-carvings  ascribed  to  Orinling  Gibbons,  and 
historical  and  other  curiosities.  Visitors  are  admitted  from  11  to  4,  on 
.Sat.  11-1  (gratuity  to  the  attendant). 

Interior.  Passing  through  the  handsome  iron  gates,  we  are  conducted 
to  the  Sub-Hall,  where  we  await  the  attendant.  The  Great  Hall  (60  ft. 
long),  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Verrio  and  Laguerre.  The  Chapel,  with 
the  altar  at  the  W.  end,  is  lavishly  embellished  with  marble,  Derbyshire 
spar,  wood-carving,  and  paintings  by  Verrio.  The  State  Apartments,  in  the 
third  story,  are  adorned  with  wood-carvings,  Derbyshire  spar  and  marble, 
and  paintings  by  Verrio  and  Thornhill.  The  State  Dressing  Room  contains 
a  piece  of  wood-carving  in  imitation  of  point-lace.  In  the  Old  State 
Bedroom,  the  walls  of  which  are  hung  with  stamped  leather,  are 
the  coronation -chairs  of  George  IV.  and  Queen  Charlotte,  and  in  the 
Music  Room  are  those  of  William  IV.  and  Queen  Adelaide.  Behind  a  half- 
open  door  is  a  clever  piece  of  illusive  painting  by  Verrio  (a  fiddle  on  the 
wall).  The  State  Dkawing-Room  contains  Gobelins  tapestry  from  Ra- 
phael's cartoons.  The  State  Dining-Room  has  some  fine  wood-carving. 
On  the  central  table  is  the  rosary  of  Henry  VIII.  The  Corridors  of 
the  third  story  form  the  "Sketch  Gallery,  containing  upwards  of  1000 
original  drawings  by  Raphael.,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,,  Michael  Angela,  Titian, 
Correggio,  Rubens,  Rembrand'  Diirer,  Holbein,  Claude  Lorrain,  and  other 
great  masters  (admirably  lighted).  —  We  now  descend  to  the  "Picture 
Gallery,  which  contains  works  by  Van  Eyck,  Teniers,  Titian,  Tintoretto, 
Murillo,  Holbein,  etc.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Billiard  Room,  with  well- 
known  works  by  Sir  Edwin  Landseer.  —  The  chief  treasure  of  the  Library 
is  Claude's  'Liber  Veritatis'.  —  The  'Sculpture  Gallery,  adjoined  by  the 
*Orangery,  contains  a  Venus  by  Thorvaldsen  (with  a  bracelet) ;  Napoleon, 
Napoleon's  Mother,  and  Endymion,  by  Canova;  a  Girl  spinning,  by  Scha- 
dow ;  Swan-Song,  by  Schwanthaler,  etc. 

From  the  Orangery  we  enter  the  'Gardens  (small  fee  to  the  gardener), 
which  are  fine  but  formal,  with  artificial  cascades,  fountains,  surprise  water- 
works, etc.  The  Emperor  Fountain  throws  a  jet  265  ft.  high.  The  Great  Con- 
servator!/,2SiO  it.  long,  was  erected  from  a  design  by  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  the 
builder  of  the  Crystal  Palace,  who  was  at  the  time  head-gardener  to  the  Duke 
of  Devonshire.  —  On  a  height  to  the  N.E.  of  the  house  is  the  Hunting 
Tower  (90  ft.  high),  commanding  an  extensive  view.  Queen  Mari/s  Bower, 
a  low  square  tower  surrounded  by  a  moat,  near  the  bridge  over  the  Dar- 
went,   is  said  to  have  been   a  frequent  resort  of  Mary  Stuart  (see  above). 

*Chatswortii  Park  is  9  M.  in  circumference. 

From  Chatsworth  or  Edensor  we  now  strike  northwards  towards 
(16  M.)  Castleton  by  road  (no  public  conveyance). 

Those  who  prefer  it  may  return  to  Bakewell  (p.  374)  and  take  the  train 
thence  to  Chapel-en-le- Frith  (]).  377),  which  is  8  M.  from  Castleton. 

About  Y2  M.  from  the  Chatsworth  Hotel,  at  the  fork,  we  take 
the  right  branch,  which  leads  to  (1 V2  ^^0  Baslow  (Peacock  ;  Royal ; 
*Hydropathic),  a  pleasant-lying  village,  from  which  coaches  ply  in 
summer  to  (121/2  M.)  Sheffield  (p.  366  ;  fare  is.  6(7.).  Beyond  Bas- 
low  the  road  skirts  the  left  bank  of  the  Derwent,  which  it  crosses 
near  (IV2  ^1)  ^^  ^^^j  where  we  turn  to  the  left  and  pass  the  vil- 
lage of  Calver  (to  the  left).  At  (V3  M.)  another  Inn  the  main  road 
to  Castleton  via  Hathersage  (p.  376)  diverges  to  the  right.    We 


376     Route  46.  CASTLETON.  The  Derbyshire 

go  straight  on  and  soon  reach  (2/3  M.)  Stoney  MiddUton  (Moon  Inn), 
beyond  which  we  enter  the  rocky  Middleton  Dale.  After  3/^  M.  the 
road  to  (^  '9  M.)  Eyam  turns  to  the  right. 

The  road  ascending  straight  through  the  dale  leads  to  (5  M.)  Tideswell 
(George;  Cross  Daggers),  a  small  town  with  a  fine  Dec.  *Church.  Tides- 
well  is  5  M.  due  S.  of  Castleton,  and  3  M.  to  the  X.  of  Miller's  Dale  (p.  379). 

Eyam  (Bull's  Head),  pron.  '■EerrC.  a  prettily-sitnated  village 
with  1000  inhab. ,  is  memorable  for  its  terrible  visitation  by  the 
plague  in  1665-66.  which  carried  off  260  out  of  its  350  inhabitants. 

Thanks  mainly  to  the  heroic  exertions  of  the  rector,  the  Rev.  Wil- 
liam Mompesson,  the  village  was  strictly  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the 
country-side,  and  the  plague  thus  prevented  from  spreading.  The  rector 
himself  escaped,  but  he  lost  his  wife.  The  victims  of  the  disease  were 
generally  buried  near  the  spot  where  they  died,  and  the  fields  round 
Eyam  are  sprinkled  with  tombstones.  The  churchyard  contains  a  Saxon 
Cross.  Kear  the  church  is  an  arched  rock,  known  as  Cucklet  Church,  which 
Mr.  Blompesson  used  as  a  pulpit  during  the  plague.  A  pleasant  path  leads 
from  Eyam  across  the  moors  to  (5  M.)  Hathersage  (see  below). 

To  continne  our  route  to  Castleton  via  Hathersage  we  follow  the 
road  leading  to  the  E.  from  Eyam,  which  affords  a  view  of  Mid- 
leton  Dale  and  the  tower  of  Stoney  Middleton  church  to  the  right. 
After  about  1  M.  we  turn  to  the  left,  and  V4M.  farther  on  we  rejoin 
the  main  road  through  the  Derwent  valley  (comp.  p.  375).  Beyond 
{}i2  M.)  Grindleford  Bridge  (Inn)  the  road  runs  through  a  narrow 
and  linely-wooded  part  of  the  valley,  which  farther  on  again  expands. 
3  M.  Hathersage  (George,  well  spoken  of;  Ordnance  Arms),  a  village 
with  manufactures  of  pins  and  needles. 

The  church,  dating  from  the  14th  cent.,  contains  some  good  brasses. 
The  grave  of  Liitle  John,  the  lieutenant  of  Robin  Hood,  is  pointed  out 
in  the  churchyard.  —  About  IV4  M.  to  the  W.  are  Higgar  Tor  and  an 
interesting  British  fort  named  Carl  Wark. 

We  here  reach  the  Dore  &  Chinley  Railway  (see  p.  367).  Our 
road  now  leads  to  the  W.  through  Hope  Dale.  At  (2  M.)  Mytham 
Bridge  (Inn)  we  leave  the  Derwent,  which  turns  to  the  N.  (to  Ashop- 
ton,  p.  377,  3  M.),  and  follow  its  affluent  the  Noe.  At  (21/2  M.) 
Hope  (Hall  Inn ;  station,  see  p.  367)  the  road  to  Edale  (p.  377) 
diverges  to  the  right.  —  i^/2^-  Castleton  (Castle;  Bull's  Head),  at 
the  head  of  Hope  Dale,  is  the  centre  for  excursions  in  the  wilder  N. 
part  of  the  Peak.  Perched  on  a  steep  rocky  height  (260  ft.)  above 
the  village  is  Peveril  Castle,  a  stronghold  taking  name  from  its  first 
owner,  the  natural  son  of  William  the  Conqueror  (adm.  Id.;  view). 
The  Church  contains  a  fine  Norman  archway  between  the  nave  and 
the  chancel.    The  Museum  contains  Derbyshire  spar,  etc. 

The  three  Caverns  may  all  be  visited  in  half-a-day.  Those  who  are 
pressed  for  time  should  at  least  view  the  entrance  of  the  Peak  Cavern  and 
descend  the  Blue  John  Mine.  The  charge  for  admission  to  each  cavern 
is  2s.  for  1.  3s.  Qd.  for  2,  4s.  Qd.  for  3,  5s.  for  4-5  pers.,  a.id  Is.  for  each 
pers.  additional.     Bengal  lights  extra.     Guides  are  in  attendance  all  day. 

The  Peak  Cavern,  "at  the  foot  of  the  castle-rock,  extends  for  upAvards 
of  2000  ft.  into  the  hill.  Its  arched  entrance  (42  ft.  high)  is  imposing; 
the  other  features  of  interest  include  a  chamber  220  ft.  square,  a  subter- 
ranean river  known  as  the  Styx,  and  several  natural  archways.  The  view 
of  the  landscape,  framed  in  the  entrance  as  we  come  out,  is  striking. 


Peak.  CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH.       46.  Route.     377 

The  Speedwell  Cavern  lies  about  3/4  M.  to  the  W.,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Winnats  (see  below).  We  descend  by  a  rocky  staircase  to  a  subterranean 
canal  Vz  ^^-  long,  driven  into  the  hill  by  miners  in  an  unsuccessful  search 
for  lead-ore.  We  traverse  this  canal  in  a  boat;  and  at  the  end  of  it 
reach  a  large  'Cavern,  where  tlie  water  is  precipitated  into  an  abyss  of 
unknown  depth.  The  height  of  the  roof  has  not  been  gauged;  but  it  is 
estimated  that  the  tloor  is  about  850  ft.  below  the  surface  of  the  hill.  Ner- 
vous persons  are  advised  to  leave  the  .Speedwell  unvisited,  as  the  passage 
of  the  canal  is  decidedly  'eerie'. 

The  'Blue  John  Mine  lies  about  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  .Speedwell 
Cavern.  From  the  beautiful  shape  and  loftiness  of  its  chambers,  the 
line  incrustations  and  crystallisations,  and  the  great  depth  to  which  we 
descend  by  a  natural  vertical  passage,  this  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting 
of  the  three.  This  gigantic  chasm  seems  to  have  been  formed  by  a  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  not  by  water.  The  Blue  John  Mine  is  the  only  place 
where  the  beautiful  spar  of  that  name  is  found. 

The  best  route  from  the  Speedwell  Cavern  to  the  Blue  John  Mine  is 
through  the  "Winnats  (i.e.  Wind  Gates),  a  turf- grown  mountain -pass, 
1  M.  long,  flanked  with  tall  limestone  rocks. 

A  little  farther  to  the  W.  rises  Mam  Tor  (1710  ft.),  the  top  of  which 
affords  a  good  view  of  Hope  Dale,  Edale,  Kinder  Scout,  and  Eyam  Moor. 
The  name  of  'Shivering  Mountain'  is  given  to  this  bill  from  the  liability 
of  its  S.  face  to  disintegration  from  frost.  —  A  plea,«ant  walk  (2  hrs.) 
leads  from  Castleton  to  Ashopton  (see  below)  via  Win  Hill  (1530  ft.). 

The  quickest  route  from  Castleton  to  Chapel-en-le-Frith  (and 
Buxton)  is  afforded  by  the  Dore  &  Chinley  branch  of  the  Midland 
Railway  (p.  367).  The  direct  road  (8  M.)  leads  to  the  W..  passing 
the  Blue  John  Mine  and  the  S.  side  of  Mam  Tor,  but  it  is  worth 
while  to  make  the  detour  through  Edale  (see  below),  which  adds 
11/2  M.  to  the  distance  for  walkers  and  5-6  M.  for  drivers. 

Edale  is  a  somewhat  bleak  little  valley,  watered  by  the  Xoe  and 
enclosed  by  du.'^ky  green  or  moorland  hills  with  great  variety  of  outline. 
The  hills  to  the  N.  belong  to  the  plateau  of  Kinder  Scout  (2080  ft.),  the 
highest  part  of  the  Peak  ;  while  to  the  S.  are  Lose  Hill  (p.  368).  Back  Tor., 
Mam  Tor  (p.  377),  and  Lord's  Seat  (1818  ft.).  Those  who  have  time 
should  ascend  Grind&low^  at  the  back  of  Edale  village,  for  the  view;  and 
they  may  prolong  their  walk  thence  across  the  plateau  (no  right  of  way) 
to  the  (4  M  )  Snake  Inn  (p.  367),  in  Ashopdale,  7  M.  from  Olossop  (p.  366) 
and  6'/2  M.  above  Ashopton  (see  above). 

Walkers  may  reach  Edale  from  Castleton  by  following  the  road  via 
(IV2  M  )  Hope,  (4  M.)  Car  House,  (1  M.)  Lady  Booth,  and  (3/4  M.)  Edale  Mill. 
about  V2  J"!-  beyond  which  we  reach  a  road  leading  to  the  (V^  M.)  village 
di  Edale  (see  p.  868).  Or  they  may  proceed  direct  from  Castleton  to  Edale 
by  a  footpath  crossing  the  ridge  between  Mam  Tor  and  Back  Tor,  reaching 
the  road  above  described  at  a  point  a  little  short  of  (2'/2  M.)  Edale  Mill. 
—  Those  who  wish  to  walk  all  the  way  to  Chapel-en-le-Frith  .should  follow 
the  road  through  Edale  to  (1  M.)  Barber  Booth  and  then  take  a  footpath 
ascending  towards  the  S.W.  to  the  S/ake  Pass  and  joining  the  Chapel-en- 
le-Frith  road  lower  down  (_a  boy  may  be  taken  as  a  guide  from  Barber  Booth). 

Chapel-en-le-Frith  (Kings  Arms ;  Bull's  Head),  a  town  with 
4500inhab.,  has  stations  on  the  Midland  (comp.  p.  356)  and  L.  N. 
W.  Railways.    Thence  to  Buxton  by  rail,  about  1/4  hr. 

Buxton.  —  Hotels.  Palack,  near  the  stations,  R.  ife  A.  from  5s.  6rf.,  D. 
55.,  B.  2s.  6d.,  pens.  14*.  6d. ;  St.  Ann's,  in  the  Crescent,  K.  &  A.  from 
4s.  Qd.,  pens.  13s.  6d. ;  Ckkscent,  also  in  the  Crescent,  R.  ifc  A.  from 
4s.,  pens.  l'2s.  Qd.-.,  *Old  Hall,  family  hotel,  facing  the  entrance  to  the 
Gardens,  E.  &  A.  from  4s.  6<i.,  pens.  12s.;  Ruy.\l,  R.  iV  A.  from  4s., 
pens,  in  winter  10s.  Qd.  —  Lea  Wood,  on  the  Manchester  Road;  Blkling- 
TON;  George;  Shakespeake,  commercial;  Eagle,  in  High  Buxton,  R.  <!i'  A. 


378     Route  46.  BUXTON.  Ihe  Derbyshire 

from  3s.  Sd.  —  At  the  Buxton  hotels  the  prevailing  custom  is  to  have 
table-d'hote  meals  and  pay  a  fixed  price  per  day.  —  Hydropathics.  Malvern 
House;  Corbar  Hill  or  Clarendon;  Haddon  House;  Fertk.  —  Athelstane  Board- 
ing Establishment^  Jlanchester  Road,  21.  2s.  to  31.  105. ,  according  to  season. 

—  Numerous  other  Boarding  Houses  and  Lodgings. 

Cabs  with  one  horse  is.  per  mile,  each  addit.  1/2  M.  6(i. ;  with  two 
horses  is.  6c?.  &  9d. ;  per  hour  3*.  &  4s.,  each  addit.  '/4  lir.  %d.  &  is.  — 
Bath-chairs  per  V2  tr.  I5.,  1  hr.  is.  3d.,  each  additional  V2  br.  4rf. 

Buxton,  one  of  the  three  chief  inland  watering-places  in  Eng- 
land and  the  highest  town  in  the  country  (1000  ft.  above  the  sea), 
contains  a  resident  population  of  about  7500,  which  is  doubled  or 
trebled  during  the  summer-season.  It  has  a  fine  bracing  climate, 
apt  at  times  to  be  rather  cold.  The  Hot  Springs  for  which  it  is 
famous  (Bath  having  the  only  other  hot  springs  in  England)  seem 
to  have  been  known  to  the  Romans ,  and  were  several  times 
visited  by  Mary  Stuart  when  in  the  custody  of  the  Earl  of  Shrews- 
bury (comp.  p.  366).  They  rise  from  fissures  in  the  limestone  rock 
at  a  constant  temperature  of  82"  Fahr.,  and  are  efficacious  in  rheu- 
matism and  other  ailments.  The  Crescent,  the  most  prominent 
building  in  the  town,  has  the  Tepid  Baths  and  the  Chalybeate  Wells 
at  the  W.  end  and  the  Hot  Baths  at  the  E.  end.  In  front  is  the 
new  Pump  Room.  Behind  the  last  is  a  grassy  knoll  known  as  St. 
Ann's  Cliffy  at  the  upper  end  of  which  is  the  Town  Hall,  beyond 
which  again  lies  Upper  Buxton.  To  the  W.  of  the  Crescent  are  the 
Pleasure  Gardens  (adm.  4d.,  after  5  p.m.  6(i.),  with  a  large  Pavilion 
containing  a  concert-hall  (music  twice  daily),  reading-room,  winter- 
garden,  and  theatre.  Through  the  centre  of  the  Gardens  flows  the 
infant  Wye.  and  their  S.  side  is  skirted  by  the  Broad  Walk,  with 
its  well-built  villas.  The  large  domed  building,  near  the  Palace 
Hotel,  is  the  Devonshire  Hospital.  It  was  originally  built  as  a  private 
winter  riding  school.  The  dome,  154  ft.  in  diameter,  is  said  to  be 
the  largest  in  Europe,  and  is  remarkable  for  a  curious  echo,  best 
heard  from  the  centre  of  the  floor-space. 

Environs.  At  the  end  of  the  Broad  "Walk  is  a  hoard  indicating  the 
path  to  (1  M.)  Poole's  Hole  (adm.  6rf.),  which  crosses  two  fields  and 
passes  Buxton  College.  At  the  road  we  turn  to  the  right.  The  cavern, 
named  after  an  outlaw  who  used  it  in  the  time  of  Henry  IV.  (ca.  1400),  con- 
tains some  fine  stalactites,  but  is  inferior  to  the  Castleton  Caves  (p.  376), 
and  has  been  vulgarised  by  being  lighted  with  gas.     The   Wye  rises  here. 

—  The  Duke's  Drive  is  a  carriage-road  about  I1/4  M.  long  ,  constructed 
by  the  Duke  of  Devonshire  in  1795,  and  connecting  the  lower  road  through 
Ashwood  Dale  with  the  higher  one  to  Longnor.  It  begins  and  ends  not 
much  more  than  1/2  M.  from  Buxton  ,  so  that  the  round  is  about  2^2  M. 

—  At  Fairfield  Common,  1  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Buxton,  is  a  golf-course. 

Excursion-brakes  run  daily  (return -fare  is.  Qd.)  to  the  (5  M.)  Cat  d- 
Fiddle  Inn  (ca.  1700  ft.) ,  on  the  road  to  Macclesfield,  the  highest  inn  in 
England  (extensive  view).  —  Walkers  may  combine  with  this  excursion 
an  ascent  of  Axe  Edge  (1810  ft.),  the  second  summit  of  the  Peak,  21/2  M. 
to  the  S.  of  Buxton.  —  Other  favourite  points  are  'Cheedale  (p.  379);  the 
Corbar  Wood  Walks,  1/2  M.  to  the  X.W.;  the  Diamond  Hill  (named  from 
the  quartz  crystals  found  on  it),  IV2  M.  to  the  S.;  Solomon's  Temple, 
1/2  M.  beyond  Poole's  Hole;  the  Govt  Valley  (p.  356),  to  the  X.W.;  and 
the  rocky  chasm  called  Lud's  Church.  9  M.  to  the  S.W.  —  Coaches  ply  in 
summer  to  Haddon  Hall  and  Chatsworth  (pp.  373,375;  return-fare  55.  Qd.). 


Peak.  DOVEDALE.  46.  Route.     379 

From  Buxton  through  Cheedale  to  Miller's  Dale,  6  M.  We 
leave  Lower  Buxton  by  Spring  Gardens  and  follow  the  Bakewell 
road  through  Ashwood  Dale.  On  the  right  we  pass  (1  M.)  Sherwood 
Dell  and  the  cliff  called  the  Lover's  Leap.  At  a  point  about  31/4M. 
from  Buxton,  after  passing  under  the  Midland  Railway  3-4  times, 
we  diverge  to  the  left  by  a  well-marked  track  and  cross  the  Wye 
by  a  bridge  near  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with  the  Buxton 
branch.  We  then  follow  closely  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  keeping 
to  the  lower  paths,  and  not  crossing  the  flat  wooden  bridge  a  little 
lower  down.  After  about  V2  lir.  tlie  stream  sweeps  to  the  left  and 
we  cross  it  by  a  plank-bridge.  We  then  again  pass  under  the  rail- 
way, recross  the  river,  and  reach  the  entrance  to  *Cheedale,  a  nar- 
row valley  flanked  by  fantastic  and  well-wooded  walls  of  limestone 
rock.  Chee  Tor  (fine  view)  rises  boldly  on  the  right  to  a  height  of 
300  ft.  [The  path,  which  is  rather  rough  and  very  miry  after  rain, 
is  closed  on  Thursdays.]  Farther  on  we  pass  through  a  small  wood, 
cross  a  side-valley,  and  reach  a  wooden  bridge,  which  we  cross 
if  we  wish  to  climb  Chee  Tor.  If  not,  we  follow  the  left  bank  to 
(1/4  hr.)  Miller's  Dale  (Inn ;  p.  356).  —  We  now  either  return  to 
Buxton,  or  go  on  to  Bakewell  (p.  374)  by  train. 

From  Buxton  to  (14  M.)  Alstonefield,  a  pleasant  drive  (ex- 
cursion-brakes in  summer).  [The  new  railway  from  Buxton  to  A*^^- 
bourne  (p.  380)  is  open  as  far  as  (9  M.)  Parsley  Hay.]  The  road 
runs  S.E.  from  Higher  Buxton.  To  the  right,  above  us ,  is  the  High 
Peak  Railway.  Beyond  (5  M.)  Glutton  Dale  we  cross  the  Dove.  — 
2  M.  Longnor  (Crewe  Arms)^  a  small  market-town  in  a  pleasant 
situation. 

Good  walkers  may  follow  a  footpath  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Dove 
to  (5  M.)  Hartington  C'CftarZes  Cotton  Hotel),  an  angling-resort,  and  (5  51.) 
Mill  Dale  (see  below) ,  passing  through  the  charming  -Beresford  Dale, 
with  the  'Fishing  House"  of  Izaak  Walton  and  his  friend  and  biographer, 
Cotton.  —  On  Arbor  Low,  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Hartington,  are  some  ex- 
tensive 'Druidicar  remains. 

The  road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Manifold  for  some  time,  and 
then  strikes  off  towards  the  S.E.  At  (7  M.)  Alstonefield  (George) 
we  leave  the  carriage  and  follow  a  footpath  leading  directly  to 
(1/2  M.)  Mill  Dale,  a  hamlet  at  the  head  of  Dovedale,  though  the 
prettiest  part  of  the  valley  begins  at  Dove  Holes,  about  1  M.  lower 
down.  *Dovedale  is  a  picturesque  and  narrow  limestone  valley, 
hemmed  in  by  fantastic  rocks,  freely  interspersed  with  woods. 

Leaving  the  Dove  Hole  Caverns,  we  pass  between  two  limestone  crags 
and  follow  the  left  or  Derbyshire  bank  of  the  Dove  (the  other  being  in 
Staftbrdshire).  Various  arbitrary  names  have  been  given  to  the  rocks, 
few  of  which  seem  specially  appropriate.  The  Lion's  Head,  one  of  the 
first  we  reach,  is,  however,  an  exception.  Beyond  (1  M.)  Reynard's  Cave 
(above,  to  the  left)  the  vale  slightly  expands.  Farther  on,  we  have  the 
Tissington  Spires  to  the  left  and  the  Church  and  Twelve  Apo.<iles  to  the  right. 
From  Sharplow  Point  we  have  a  fine  view  in  both  directions;  to  the  S. 
rises  Thorpe  Cloud  (900  ft.).  At  the  foot  of  this  hill  we  reach  the  stepping- 
stones,  and,  a  little  farther  on,  a  foot-bridge,  leading  to  the  Izaak  Walton 
Hotel,  a  favourite  angling-resort.    A  path  to  the  left  ascends  to  the  Pevevil 


380     Route  47.  PRESTON.  From  Liverpool 

Hotel,  close  to  the  village  of  Thorpe.  This  is  the  S.  end  of  Dovedale 
proper.  —  Pedestrians  bound  for  (3^4  M.)  Ashbourne  (see  below)  may 
continue  to  follow  the  right  bank.  At  (IV2  M.)  a  cross-road  (bridge  to  the 
right)  we  climb  a  stile  and  cross  a  field  (path  not  very  distinct).  Vz  ^I- 
Stone  bridge,  where  a  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Cheadle.  We  cross  the 
road,  pass  a  house  near  the  river,  and  go  through  a  gate.  —  I1/2  M 
Mappleton  (Oakover  Arms).  We  cross  the  road  and  traverse  two  fields, 
reaching  the  road  again  a  little  farther  on.  In  4  min.  more  we  follow 
the  cart-track  ascending  to  the  left,  passing  a  farm-house.  At  the  top  is 
a  large  field,  where  the  path  disappears;  but  by  keeping  in  a  straight 
direcfion  we  reach  a  stile  on  the  other  side  of  the  field,  beyond  which 
the  path  is  again  clear.  It  descends  through  a  park  and  past  a  large 
house  to  a  gate  near  a  bridge  over  an  afiluent  of  the  Dove.  From  this 
point  a  path  crosses  a  field  to  a  lane  leading  to  Ashbourne  station. 

[The  road  from  the  Peveril  Hotel  to  (4  M.)  Ashbourne  passes  (1  M.) 
the  Dog  &  Partridge  Inn,  whence  a  road  to  the  left  leads  by  the  "  Via 
Gellia  (fancifully  named  after  the  Gell  family)  to  (12  31.)  Matlock  (p.  372).l 

Ashbourne  (Green  Man,  an  old-fashioned  hostelry,  While 
Hart)  is  a  picturesque  little  town  in  a  well-wooded  valley.  The 
*Church,  near  the  station,  is  in  the  E.E.  and  Dec.  styles,  with  a 
lofty  spire  [212  ft.}.  Among  the  interesting  monuments  is  a  very 
touching  one  of  little  *Penelope  Boothby  [d.  1791),  by  Banks. 

About  472  M.  to  the  W.  of  Ashbourne  is  Wootton  Hall,  where  Rousseau 
wrote  the  first  part  of  his  'Confessions''  (1766-67).  —  A  pleasant  walk  may  be 
taken  by  the  Weaver  HilU  and  Alton  Towers  to  (10  M.)  Alton  (p.  352). 

From  Ashbourne  to  Derby,  30  M.,  railway  in  ii/4-2hrs.  (fares  3s.  6d., 
25.  id.,  is.  8(f.).  —  5  31.  Norhury ,w\ih.  a  highly  interesting  church  (14-I5th 
cent. ;  fine  stained  glass)  and  an  ancient  manor-house.  —  7  M.  Rocester 
(p.  380).  —  11  M.  Uttoxeler  (p.  352).  -  19M.  Tuthury,  see  p.  190.  —  30  31.  Derby. 
see  p.  357. 

47.  From  Liverpool  or  Manchester  to  Carlisle. 

L.  N.  W.  Railway  in  3V2-5V2  hrs.  (fares  from  Liverpool  18s.  lid.,  13s., 
%s.  lid.;  from  3Ianchester  ISs.,  ISs.  %d.,  10s.  Id.).  The  two  lines  unite  at 
Wigan  (see  below;  V2  1  hr.).  The  more  frequented  line  from  3Ianchester 
to  Preston  runs  via  Bolton  (p.  344). 

From  Liverpool  to  (181/2^1-)  W%«n,  seep.  338;  from  Manchester 
to  (18  M.)  Wigan,  see  p.  338.  At  Wigan  (Royal,-  Victoria), 
an  iron,  brass,  and  cotton  making  town  of  55,000  inhab.,  in  an 
important  coal-district,  we  join  the  trunk-line  of  the  L.  N.W.R. 
Beyond  (28  M.)  Farington  we  cross  the  RihUe  (*View  to  the  right). 

29  M.  Preston  C^Park  Hotel;  Victoria;  Bull;  Alexandra  Temper- 
ance; Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  an  important  centre  of  the  cotton 
manufacture,  with  107,570  inhabitants.  The  principal  buildings 
are  the  Town  Hall,  from  a  design  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott;  the  Harris 
Free  Library  c^'  Museum ,  with  good  sculptures  in  the  pediment  by 
E.  Roscoe  Mullens;  the  County  Hall;  and  the  Parish  Church,  partly 
rebuilt  in  1885.    The  town  possesses  three  large  Public  Parks. 

Preston  is  a  place  of  considerable  antiquity  and  was  frequently  the 
scene  of  contests  between  the  English  and  the  Scots.  The  Parliament- 
arians defeated  the  Royalists  near  Preston  in  1643,  and  it  was  occupied 
bv  the  Pretender  in  1715.  Richard  Arkwright ,  the  inventor,  was  born  at 
Preston  in  1732.  Preston  was  the  cradle  of  the  temperance  movement, 
and  the  first  teetotal  pledges  were  signed  here  by  Joseph  Livesey  and  his 
friends  in  1833. 


to  Carlisle.  LANCASTER.  47.  Route.     381 

From  Preston  to  Blackpool  and  Fleetwood,  21  M. ,  railway  in 
3/4-I  hr.  (fares  3<.  3d.,  2«.  2d.,  U.  Sy-d.).  —  From  (8  M.)  Kirkham  a  branch- 
line  diverges  to  the  left  for  the  small  watering-place  of  Lytham  (Queen), 
whence  it  goes  on  to  Blackpool  (see  below).  —  14' 'vM.  /*o?i^?o«  is  the  starting- 
point  of  the  regular  line  to  (IS  M.)  Blackpool  (Bailey's  Hotel;  Clifton  Arms; 
County;  Albion;  Imperial  Hydropathic).,  one  of  the  most  popular  sea-bathing 
resorts  in  the  Xorth  of  England,  with  a  fine  esplanade,  three  piers,  a  winter 
garden,  an  'EilVel  Tower'  (501)  ft.  high),  etc.  The  first  open-conduit  electric 
tramway  in  England  was  constructed  in  1885  at  Blackpool  ;  and  a  gas- 
trauiway,  opened  in  1896,  connects  Blackpool  with  St  Anne's  and  Lytham 
(see  above).  —  The  direct  line  from  Poulton  goes  on  to  (21  M.)  Fleetwood 
(Croion;  Steamer;  Royal;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  small  watering-place  on 
the  Irish  Channel.  Mail-steamers  ply  hence  daily  to  Belfast,  and  there  is 
a  summer-service  to  the  Isle  of  Man  (p.  346).  About  3  M.  to  the  S.W.  is 
Rossall  School,  a  large  public  school  (400  boys). 

From  Garstang  a  branch-line  runs  W,  to  Winmarleigh  and  Pil- 
ling.—  50  M.  Lancaster  (County;  King's  Arms;  Bail.  Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  the  county-town  of  Lancashire,  with  31,000  inhab.,  lies 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Lune.  The  Castle,  to  a  great  extent  rebuilt, 
but  still  retaining  its  ancient  keep  with  a  turret  known  as  'John  of 
Gaunt's  Chair",  is  now  the  gaol.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Church  of  St. 
Mary  (15th  cent.),  containing  good  stained  glass,  some  line  oak- 
carvings,  and  a  few  interesting  brasses.  The  Storey  Art  Gallery  was 
opened  in  1891.  To  the  left  of  the  line,  before  Lancaster,  is  the 
Royal  Albert  Asylum  for  Imbeciles,  and  to  the  right  is  Ripley  Hos- 
pital, erected  for  orphan  children  at  a  cost  of  100,000i. 

Lancaster  occupies  the  site  of  a  Roman  station.  It  was  given  by  Ed- 
ward III.  to  his  son,  'Old  .John  of  Gaunt,  time-honoured  Lancaster',  and  the 
duchy  of  Lancaster  is  still  attached  to  the  Crown.  Dr.  Whewell  and  Sir 
Richard  Owen,  the  comparative  anatomist,  were  natives  of  Lancaster. 

From  Lancaster  a  branch-line  runs  W.  to  (6  M.)  Morecambe  {Midland; 
Crown;  West  View;  Imperial;  Grand,  new),  a  thriving  watering-place,  with  a 
promenade,  a  pier,  a  People's  Palace  and  Aquarium,  etc.  Morecambe  may 
also  be  reached  by  the  Midland  Railway  from  Settle  (see  p.  412).  — 
Another  short  branch-line  runs  from  Lancaster  to  Olasson  Dock,  a  new 
port  on  the  estuary  of  the  Lune. 

At  (53  M.)  Hest  Bank  diverges  another  branch  to  (3  M.)  More- 
cambe (see  above).  View,  to  the  left,  of  Morecambe  Bay.  —  56  M. 
Carnforth.  (Station  Hotel;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms)  is  the  junction 
of  the  Furness  Railway  to  Barrow,  the  Lake  District,  and  Whiteliaven 
(see  R.  48).  —  69  M.  Oxenholme  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  the  junction 
of  the  branch  to  (3  M.)  Kendal  and  (11  M. )  Windermere  (p.  386). 

Kendal  (Commercial;  King's  Arms),  the  chief  town  of  Westmorland 
(14,500  inhab.) ,  is  seen  to  the  left  as  we  proceed.  It  still  carries  on  the 
manufacture  of  woollen  cloth  established  by  Flemish  weavers  in  the  14th 
cent.,  but  'Kendal  Green'  is  no  longer  made.  On  a  hill  to  the  E.  of  the 
town  are  the  ruins  of  a  Castle,  in  which  Queen  Catherine  Parr  was  born. 

From  (78  M.)  Low  Gill  (*View  to  the  right)  a  line  runs  to  the 
right  to  Ingleton  (p.  412).  80  M.  Tebay  is  the  junction  of  the  N.E. 
line  to  Darlington  (p.  418)  and  Bishop  Auckland  (p.  422).  —  Beyond 
Tebay  we  reach  the  culminating  point  of  the  line  (1000  ft.)  and 
descend  to  (89  M.)  Shap  (^Hotel;  p.  398).  Hawes  Water  (p.  398)  is 
51/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Shap;  and  Kidsty  Pike,  High  St.,  and  other 
summits  of  the  Lake  District  are  conspicuous  to  the  left.    Beyond 


382     Route  47.  CARLISLE.  From  Liverpool 

(97  M.)  Clifton  we  have  a  glimpse  on  the  right  of  Brougham  Hall, 
the  home  of  Lord  Brougham. 

101  M.  Penrith.  (Crown  ,•  George),  an  ancient  market-town,  with 
9000  inhab.  and  the  remains  of  an  old  castle,  is  the  junction  of 
the  line  to  Keswick  and  Cockermouth  (see  below),  and  of  the  'Eden 
Valley  line'  to  Appleby  (p.  412)  and  Kirkby  Stephen  (p.  412).  A 
small  inn,  named  the  Gloucester  Arms,  contains  a  room  in  which 
Richard  III.  once  slept,  and  some  good  old  oaken  panelling.  Penrith 
Beacon,  crowning  a  wooded  height  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town  (25  min. 
from  the  station),  commands  a  good  view  over  Ullswater. 

About  4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Penrith  is  Eden  Hall,  the  ancient  seat  of 
the  Musgraves.  still  containing  the  curious  old  glass  goblet,  the  legend 
attached  to  vrhich  is  celebrated  in  Thlands  well-known  ballad,  'The  Luck 
of  Eden  Hair  ('Das  Gliick  von  Edenhair).  —  About  3  M.  farther  on,  at 
Salkeld.  is  a  Druidical  circle  known  as  Long  Meg  and  her  Daughters. 

From  Penrith  to  Keswick,  Cockeemocth,  and  Workixgtox,  39  M., 
railway  in  13/4  hr.  (fares  7«.2d.,  45.  lid.,  3*.  3d.:  to  Keswick  2s.  lid.,  Is,  lOd., 
l5.  '2d.).  As  we  start  we  have  a  view,  to  the  left,  of  the  heights  around 
niswater.  972  M.  Troutheck  (Inn)  is  one  of  the  starting-points  for  a  visit 
to;!Ullswater  (p.  396).  The  Saddleback  (p.  406),  seen  on  the  right,  may 
be  ascended  from  (14i^  M.)  Threlkeld  (see  p.  406).  To  the  left  opens  the 
Vale  of  St.  John  (p.  4()3).  Beyond  Threlkeld  the  train  passes  through  the 
charming  valley  of  the  winding  Greta.  —  IS  M.  Keswick.,  see  p.  399.  — 
The  train  now"  runs  through  the  Vale  of  Keswick  to  (20  M.)  Braithwaite, 
beyond  which  it  skirts  the  W.  bank  oi Bassenthwaite  Lake  (p.  407).  On  the 
other  side  of  the  lake  towers  Skiddaw  (p.  406).  25V-2  M.  Bassenthwaite  Lake 
Station  (Pheasant  Inn).  —  301/2  M.  Cockermouth  (Globe;  Reay's  Temperance), 
with  the  relics  of  a  Norman  castle,  was  the  birthplace  of  Wordsworth, 
who  dedicated  a  well-known  sonnet  to  his  native  place.  His  father  is 
buried  in  the  church.  Lowes  Water  (p.  4C'2)  is  8  M.  to  the  S.  —  39  M.  Work- 
ington, see  p.  3S5.    The  trains  go  on  to  (7  M.)   Whitehaven  (p.  3S5). 

From  Penrith  to  Pooley  Bridge  (Ullswater),  see  p,  396. 

119  M.  Carlisle.  —  Hotels.  'Coustt  Station  Hotel,  connected  with 
the  station  by  a  covered  passage,  R.  &  A.  4-55. :  Central,  Bush,  near  the 
station,  similar  charges;  Viaddot;  Crown  &  Mitre,  commercial-,  Gra- 
ham's Temperance.  —  Rail.  Refreshment  Rooms. 

Carlisle,  an  ancient  border-city  with  39,176  inhab.,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  gentle  eminence  at  the  confluence  of  three  small  rivers, 
the  Eden,  the  Caldew,  and  the  Petteril.  It  is  the  county-town  of 
Cumberland,  the  see  of  a  bishop,  and  an  important  railway-centre 
(comp.  RR.  50,  52,  63a),  and  manufactures  textile  fabrics  and  iron. 

Carlisle,  the  British  Caer  Luel,  and  the  Roman  Luguvallium  or  Lugu- 
ballia,  is  the  only  purely  English  city  which  retains  its  ancient  British 
name.  At  the  time  of  the  Saxon  invasion  it  formed  part  of  the  kingdom 
of  Strathclyde ,  and  it  withstood  the  invaders  till  the  7th  century.  It 
seems  to  have  been  destroyed  by  the  Danes  200  years  later,  and  to  have 
remained  almost  deserted  until  William  Rufus  made  it  the  defence  of  the 
English  border  and  erected  its  castle.  The  bishopric  was  founded  in  1133. 
At  a  later  period  it  was  an  important  border-fortress  and  city  of  refuge 
for  the  surrounding  country.  Carlisle  submitted  to  the  Young  Pretender  in 
1745  and  was  taken  by  the  Hanoverians.  Comp.  'Carlisle',  by  the  Rev,  Man- 
dell  Creighton  ('Historic  Towns'   series;  1889).  —  Roman  Wall,  see  p.  3S8. 

The  Citadel  Railway  Station  is  a  large  structure  covering  seven 
acres  of  ground,  and  used  by  seven  different  railway-companies. 
On  issuing  from  it  (on  the  N.  side)  we  find  ourselves  in  front  of  the 


to  Carlisle.  CARLISLE.  47.  Route.     383 

two  massive  circular  Court  Houses ,  built  on  the  site  of  the  former 
citadel.  To  the  left  is  the  Gaol.  Passing  between  the  court-houses, 
we  follow  English  St.  to  the  Market  Place,  in  which,  to  the  right, 
is  the  Town  Hall.    Castle  St.,  to  the  left,  leads  to  the  — 

Cathedral,  -which  was  originally  founded  by  William  Rufus  as 
the  church  of  the  Augustine  Priory  of  St.  Mary.  This  Norman 
church  seems  to  have  been  almost  wholly  burned  down  some  time 
before  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent. ;  and  the  E.  E.  choir  which 
replaced  the  old  one  was  also  destroyed  by  fire  in  1292,  and  again 
rebuilt,  in  the  Dec.  style,  in  the  following  cent,  (finished  ca. 
1400).  The  Central  Tower  (ca.  1410)  is  by  no  means  imposing. 
The  nave  was  partly  destroyed  by  the  Scots  under  Leslie  in  1645, 
and  still  remains  a  fragment  consisting  of  two  Norman  bays.  The 
whole  building  was  restored  in  1853.  The  daily  services  are  at 
10  a.m.  and  4  p.m.    We  enter  by  the  N.  door. 

Interior.  The  Nave  has  a  different  axis  from  the  choir.  The  fine  Norman 
arches  have  been  curiously  crushed  out  of  shape  by  the  settling  of  the 
piers.  The  S.  Transept  contains  an  interesting  Runic  inscription  (under 
glass)  and  a  bust  of  George  Moore  (d.  1ST6),  the  philanthropist.  To  the 
E.  it  is  adjoined  by  St.  Catharine's  Chapel. 

The  'Choir  is  entered  by  the  central  doorway  to  the  N.  of  the  organ, 
below  the  tabernacle-arch  of  the  stalls.  The  lower  arches  are  E.E. ,  the 
triforium  and  clerestory  Decorated.  The  glory  of  the  choir  is  the  late- 
Dec,  or  Flamboyant  ~E.  Window,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in  England, 
50  ft.  high  and  3U  ft.  broad  (glass  modern).  The  wooden  ceiling  (i4th 
cent.)  has  been  repainted.  The  Stalls  date  from  the  15th  cent.,  and  their 
backs  are  covered  with  rude  paintings  of  legendary  subjects.  Among 
the  monuments  are  those  of  Dean  Close  (d.  1882 ;  S.  choir-aisle)  and  Arch- 
deacon Paley  (d.  1805;  behind  the  altar).  At  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  N.  choir- 
aisle  is  a  door  leading  to  the  Clerestory  and  Tower  (adm.  6c?. ;  fine  view). 
—  Sir  Walter  Scott  was  married  in  Carlisle  Cathedral  in  1797.  To  the 
S.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Refectory  of  St.  Mary's  Priory  (see  above)  and 
two  dilapidated  arches.    The  house  with  the  square  tower  is  the  Deanery. 

Castle  St.  ends  at  the  Castle,  -which  is  now  used  as  barracks  and 
is  open  to  visitors  during  the  day.  From  the  Outer  Bailey  we  pass, 
to  the  right ,  into  the  Inner  Bailey.  Extensive  view  from  the  bat- 
tlements. Visitors  are  not  now  admitted  to  the  top  of  the  Norman 
Keep ,  erected  by  Rufus ,  but  the  custodian  (gratuity)  shows  the 
dungeons  in  which  the  prisoners  of  1745  were  confined,  and  some 
relics  of  Queen  Mary's  short  captivity  here  in  1568. 

A  walk  encircles  the  hill  on  which  the  castle  stands,  passing  the  only 
remains  of  the  old  City  Walls ,  also  constructed  by  William  Rufus.  —  In 
Finkle  St.,  near  the  Castle,  is  a  small  Museum  (open  1-9;  adm.  2d.). 

Great  Koman  Wall.  During  the  Roman  occupation  of  Britain  a 
Vallum,  or  earthen  rampart,  was  constructed  across  the  N.  of  England 
from  the  Solway  Firth,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  Carlisle,  to  a  point  on 
the  North  Sea  near  Newcastle.  This  was  afterwards  replaced  (probably 
by  Severus,  ca.  A.D.  208)  by  a  Stone  Wall,  8  ft.  thick  and  12  ft.  high, 
which  was  guarded  by  18  Military  Stations,  garrisoned  by  cohorts  of 
Roman  soldiers.  At  intervals  of  a  mile  were  Farts  (80  in  all"),  containing 
100  men  each,  and  between  each  pair  of  forts  were  four  watch-towers. 
Of  this  huge  line  of  fortifications,  however,  the  remains  are  remarkably 
meagre  (see  p.  425).  Carlisle  itself  was  not  a  station,  but  the  suburb  of 
Staiiwix  (Axelodunum),  on  the  other  side  of  the  Eden,  reached  by  a  hand- 
some bridge,  was  one;  and  a  few  remains  may  be  seen  there. 


384     Route  48.  ULYERSTON. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Carlisle  to  Corbp  and  Wetheral  (p.  425) ; 
■Naworth  (p.  425):  'Lanercost  Priory,  12V2  M.  to  the  X.E.  (usually  reached 
via  ^^a^vo^th):  'GiUland  (p.  425);  Eden  Hall  (p.  382)  and  Greind  i-^.  471)-, 
Holme  Cultram  Abbey,  IBM.  to  the  W.,  near  Abbey,  on  the  Silloth  Railway 
(see  below);  and  Nethevby  (p.  464),  11  M.  to  the  N. 

Feom  Caelisle  to  Martport.  28  M.,  railway  in  I-IV4  hr.  (fares  3«. 
iOd.  ,  2s.  lid.,  2s.  4d.).  —  Maryport  (Senhouse  Arms)  is  a  thriving  little 
coaling-port.     From  Maryport  to   Workington,  see  p.  385. 

From:  Carlisle  to  Silloth,  22i/2  M.,  railway  in  I-I'/a  hr.  (fares  2s. 
Qd..  Is.  Qd  ).  From  (8V2  M.)  Drumburgh  a  branch-line  diverges  to  (81/2  M.) 
Port  Carlisle.  —  Silloth  (Hotel)  is  a  seaport  on  the  Solway  Firth,  with 
regular  steam-communication  with  Douglas  (p.  347),  Liverpool,  Dublin, 
and  Belfast. 

From  Carlisle  to  Newcastle,  see  R.  52;  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow,  see 
R.  63;  to  Leeds  and  Sheffield,  see  R.  50. 

48.  From  Carnforth  to  TJlverston,  Windermere  (Lake 
Side),  Furness  Abbey,  and  Whitehaven. 

74  M.  Railway  in  2V4-3V4  hrs.  (fares  12s.  Id..,  8s.  bd.,  5s.  GVzc^-;  fares 
to  Furness  Abbey  4s.  9d.,  3s.  2d.,  2s.  ^id.). 

Carnforth,  see  p.  381.  The  train  skirts  Morecambe  Bay,  passing 
Silverdale  and  Arnside.  and  crosses  tlie  estuary  of  the  Kent.  9  M. 
Gmn5;€-0';er-5a7icis(*Grauge  Hotel ;Hazelwood  Hydropathic;  Grange 
Hydropathic),  a  pretty  watering-place.  Cartmel  Church,  2^2  ^^-  'to 
the  W.,  is  interesting  (12th  cent.).  Near  (I31/2  M.)  Cark  is  Holker 
Hall,  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire.  We  then  cross  the  estuary 
of  the  Lenen;  Coniston  Old  Man  (p.  389)  is  seen  to  the  right. 

19  M.  TJlverston  (County;  Sun),  a  market-town  with  9,950  in- 
habitants. Conishead  Priory.  2  M.  to  the  S.E.  (branch-line,  with 
one  train  daily;  also  omn.),   is  now  a  popular  hydropathic. 

riverston  is  the  junction  of  a  short  line  (9V2  M.,  in  25  min.)  to  Lake 
Side,  at  the  foot  of  Windermere  (comp.  p.  386).    The  line  skirts  the  Leven. 

25  M.  Furness  Abbey  Station  (*Abbey  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from  4s., 
B.  3s.,  lunch  2s.  Qd.)  in  the  romantic  'Valley  of  Nightshade'. 

The  ruins  of  Furness  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  foundation  of  the  12th  cent., 
are  among  the  most  extensive  and  picturesque  in  England.  The  Abbey 
was  at  one  time  exceedingly  rich,  and  the  Abbot  exercised  an  almost 
regal  sway  over  the  surrounding  country.  The  finest  features  of  the  ruins 
are  the  E.E.  chapter-house  and  the  triplet  of  grand  Xorman  arches  at  the 
entrance  to  the  chapter-house.  In  the  Abbofs  Chapel  are  two  efligies  of  Xor- 
man  knights  (12th  cent.),  said  to  be  the  only  ones  of  the  kind  in  England. 

2672^1-  Hoose.  2872^1-  Barrow-in-Furness  (Duke  of  Edinburgh; 
Imperial),  a  thriving  seaport,  with  51,700  inhab. ,  magnificent 
docks,  handsome  municipal  buildings,  and  extensive  iron-works. 
Steamers  ply  hence  to  Douglas  (p.  347)  and  Belfast. 

40  M.  Foxfield  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  (1  M.)  Broughton 
(p.  389)  and  Coniston  (10  M..  in  25  min. ;  see  p.  388).  —  We  now 
cross  the  estuary  of  the  Duddon  (p.  389).  From  (57^/2  M.)  Rav- 
englass  (Queen's  Head)  a  narrow-gauge  line  runs  to  (7  M.)  Boot 
(Mason's  Arms ;  Woolpack),  the  nearest  station  to  Wast  Water  (p.  407). 
—  59  M.  Drigg  (Victoria;   Lutwidge  Arms);  61  M.   Seascale  (see 


I^NIVERSITY  of  CALlFOHNi^ 
LOS  ANGBLBB 


saa^ainoxs 


JIO^^feOTJ"' 


Bardeker's  Great  Britain.    4tli  E 


LAKE  DISTRICT.  49.  Route.     385 

p.  408).  From  (_63  M.)  Sellafuld  a  branch-line  diverges  to  the 
mining-district  of  Cleator  Moor.  —  691/2  ^I-  St.  Bees  (Sea  Cote ; 
Albert)^  with  an  ancient  church  and  a  theological  college.  To  the 
left  is  St.  Bees  Head,  rising  300  ft.  above  the  sea. 

74  m.  Whitehaven  f  Grand;  CUobe;  Black  Lion),  a  seaport  with 
18,000  inhab.  and  a  tine  harbour.   Steamers  to  Ramsey,  see  p.  346. 

From  Whitehaven  the  line  is  prolongeil  to  (7  M.)  Workington  (Railway 
Hotel),  a  .seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Derwent,  with  large  steel-works 
and  important   salmon-fisheries,  and  to  (li  M.)  Maryport  (see  p.  384). 

49.  The  Lake  District. 

The  picturesque  mountainous  region  known  as  the  '-English  Lake 
District  is  comprised  within  the  counties  of  Westmorland  and  Cumberland, 
together  with  the  adjoining  northern  portion  of  Lancashire;  and  its  boundaries 
may  be  roughly  described  as  the  Irish  Sea  and  Morecambe  Bay  on  the  W. 
and"  S. ;  the  railway  from  Lancaster  to  Carlisle  on  the  E. ;  and  a  line  drawn 
from  Penrith  to  Workington  on  the  N.  Within  these  limits  lies  a  wealth 
of  charmingly  diversilied  scenery;  and  though  none  of  the  mountains 
exceeds  320O  ft.  in  height,  and  the  largest  of  the  lakes  is  only  IOV2  M.  long, 
their  picturesqueness  and  even  wildnesa  are  far  greater  than  their  size 
would  lead  one  to  expect.  There  are  in  all  about  16  lakes  or  meres 
(the  largest  being  Windirmere,  Ullswater,  Coniston,  and  Berwenticatet-), 
besides  innumerable  mountain -tarns.  The  highest  summits  are  /^cifell 
Pike  (3210  ft.),  Scofell  (3166  ft.),  Helvellyn  (3118  ft.),  and  Skiddaw  (3Uo4  It.). 

The  usual  approaches  to  the  Lake  District  are  from  Oxenholme  (p.  381) 
,0  Windermere,  from  Carnforth  (p.  384)  to  Lake  -Side  (Windermere)  or 
Joniston,  and  from  Penrith  (p.  382)  to  Keswick  or  Ullswater.  Seascale  (pp.  384, 
408)  is  a  convenient  starting-point  for  the  Wastwater  district.  The  most 
common  and  perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  begin  with  Windermere,  as  in  this 
case  we  see  the  tamer  scenery  lirst.  Those  who  can  devote  One  Day  only 
to  the  Lakes  will  see  most  by  taking  the  coach  from  Bowness-on-Windermere 
to  Ambleside^  Grasmere,  Thivlmere,  and  Keswick  (see  p.  386);  or  they  may 
make  the  circular  tour  from  Coniston  or  Amhleside,  mentioned  at  pp.  390, 
392.  A  Second  Day  may  be  devoted  to  the  Buttennere  round  described  at 
pp.  401, 402,  and  a  ThirdDay  to  Ullswater,  in  which  case  the  Lake  District  is 
quitted  via  Penrith  (.■^ee  p.  396).  —  A  week's  walk  may  be  planned  thus:  1st 
Day.  From  Windermere  to  Ambleside,  Grasmere,  and  X'^mgrecTi  (?/// (16  M. ; 
steamer  to  Ambleside,  see  p.  385).  —  2ni)  Day.  From  Dungeon  Gill  by 
liossett  Gill  to  Wasdale  Head,  3-i  hrs. ,  or  including  an  ascent  of  Scafell 
Pike,  41/2-6  hrs.  —  3bd  Day.  From  Wasdale  Head  to  Angler's  Inn.  Enner- 
dale,  by  the  Pillar  or  by  the  Black  Sail  Pass,  6-7  hrs.;  from  Ennerdale 
to  Bdttermere  via  Floutern  Tarn  and  Scale  Force,  2V2-3  hrs.  —  4tu  Day. 
From  Buttermere  to  Keswick  via  Honister  Hause  and  Borroicdale,  14  M.  — 
5th  Day,  From  KeswicR  via  Helvellyn  to  Paiterdale,  5-6  hrs.  —  6th  Day. 
Sail  on  Ullswater,  visit  Aira  Force,  and  go  on  to  Penrith;  or,  from  Patter- 
dale  to  Windermere  by  the  Kirksto/ie  Pass  and  Troutbeck,  13  M.  (digression 
to  Haweg  Water,  6  M.'). 

The  following  list  of  local  names  may  be  useful.  Beck,  brook;  Combe, 
hollow  (comp.  p.  129) ;  Dodd,  a  spur  of  a  mountain  ;  Fell,  a  mountain  ;  Force 
(Icelandic, 'Fors';  Norwegian  'Foss'),  a  waterfall;  Gill,  a  gorge;  House, 
the  top  of  a  pass,  French 'col';  Holme,  an  island;  How,  a  mound-like  hill ; 
Nab  (A.S.  Nebbe,  nose),  a  projecting  rock;  Pike,  a  peak;  liaise,  the  top  of 
a  ridge ;  Scar,  a  wall  of  rock ;  Scree,  steep  slope  of  loose  stones ;  Thwaite, 
a  clearing. 

The  Hotels  in  the  Lake  District  are  generally  good  and  not  exorbitant; 
while  even  the  smallest  inns ,  almost  without  exception ,  are  laudably 
clean.     Guides  and  Ponies  may  be  procured  at  the  principal  resorts. 

Readers  need  scarcely  be  reminded  of  the  Lake  School  of  Poetrij. 
Wordsworth   in   particular   has  made  the  district  his  own  ('Wordsworth- 

Bardeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  25 


386     Route  J .9.  BOWNESS.  The  Lake 

shire',  as  Lowell  calls  it),  and  few  points  of  interest  have  been  left  unsung 
in  his  'Excursion'  or  minor  poems.  Among  interesting  prose  works  relating 
to  the  Lakes  may  be  mentioned  Harriet  Martineau's  'Guide  to  the  Lake 
District'  (4th  ed. ,  1871),  Prof.  Knighfs  'English  Lake  District  as  Inter- 
preted in  the  Poems  of  Wordsworth'  and  'Through  the  Wordsworth 
Country'  (1887),  James  Payiis  'Leaves  from  Lakeland',  Wordsworth's  'Guide 
to  the  Lake  District'  (5th  ed.,  1835;  now  out  of  print),  Gihson'^s  'Folk- 
speech  of  Cumberland',  and  Miss  Alice  Reus  'Beckside  Boggle  and  other 
Lake  Countrv  Legends'.  The  botanist  is  referred  to  Mr.  J.  G.  Baker^s 
'Flora  of  the  Lake  District'  (1886). 

a.     Windermere  Section. 

The  village  of  Windermere  (f'Rigg's  Windermere  Hotel ,  with 
view,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  D.  As.]  Queen's,  EUeray ,  unpretending;  Rail. 
Rfmt.  Rooms;  station,  p.  381)  lies  about  300  ft.  above  the  lake 
(450  ft.  above  the  sea),  from  which  it  is  distant  3/^  M.  by  the  direct 
footpath  and  IY2  ^^'  ^Y  road.  It  is  delightfully  situated  among 
trees  at  the  foot  of  Orrest  Head  (see  below),  affording  fine  views 
of  the  lake.  Visitors  may  take  up  their  quarters  with  almost  equal 
advantage  either  here  or  at  Bowness  (see  below),  on  the  shore  of  the 
lake,  1^2^-  to  the  S.  (omn.  from  the  station  6rf.). 

Those  who  reach  the  Lake  at  the  Lake  Side  Station  (see  p.  384)  may 
go  on  at  once  bv  steamer  to  (4  31.)  "fytovr^s  Hall  Hotel,  (5  M.)  the  Ferry 
(p.  388),  or  (6  M.)  Bowness. 

Bowness.  —  Hotels.  'Old  England,  close  to  the  lake;  *Bklsfield, 
opposite  the  pier,  with  large  grounds;  *Royal  Hotel;  *Crown,  on  a 
height  to  the  E.  —  *Ferrt  Hotel,  see  p.  387.  —  *Htdropathic  Establish- 
ment, well  situated  on  Biscay  How.  —  Lodgings. 

Coaches  run  daily  in  summer  from  Bowness  and  Windermere  to 
(I2V2  M.)  Ullswater  (fare  65.,  return  8s.  6d.);  from  Bowness  across  the  ferry 
to  (10  M.)  Coniston  (l^.,  return  6s.) ;  and  from  Windermere  station  to  Amble- 
side (5  M.;  Is.  6d.),  Orasmere  (9  M.;  2s.  Qd.).,  and  Keswick  (iJlM.;  6s.  6c?.). 
—  Omnibuses  from  the  Bowness  hotels  and  from  (3  M.)  Low  Wood  Hotel 
(p.  387)  meet  the  trains  at  Windermere. 

Steamers  ply  on  Windermere  at  frequent  intervals  during  the  day, 
calling  at  several  stations.  Entire  tour  of  the  lake  (2V2  hrs.)  3s.,  2s.  6d. ; 
to  Lake  Side  (},U  hr.)  Is.  Qd..  Is.;  to  Waterhead  (for  Ambleside;  1/2  hr.)  Is.,  9rf. 

Boats  on  the  lake  Is.  per  hour,  5s.  per  day;  with  boatman  Is.  %d. 
and  10s.  They  may  be  obtained  either  near  the  Bowness  pier  or  at  the 
Miller  Ground  Landing,   the   nearest  point  to  the  village  of  Windermere. 

Bowness  (135  ft.  above  the  sea),  with  about  2000  inhab. ,  the 
principal  port  of  Windermere ,  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  small 
bay  on  the  E.  side  of  the  lake.  The  old  Church  of  St.  Martin,  the 
parish-church  of  Windermere,  has  lately  been  restored  and  contains 
a  good  stained-glass  window,  with  fragments  brought  from  Furness 
Abbey  (p.  384).  Bowness  affords  admirable  headquarters  for  ex- 
ploring the  S.  part  of  the  Lake  District.  The  Royal  Windermere 
Yacht  Club,  which  has  its  seat  here,  holds  races  twice  a  week  in  July, 

'Orrest  Head  (784ft.),  commanding  an  extensive  vdew  of  the  lake, 
is  ascended  from  Windermere  in  about  20  minutes.  On  issuing  from 
the  station  we  bear  to  the  left  by  the  main  road  and  beyond  a  foun- 
tain pass  through  the  second  of  two  gates  on  the  right  (a  wooden  one), 
adjoining  the  approach  to  Rigg's  Windermere  Hotel,  and  then  ascend 
through  the  varied  woods  of  Elleray  by  a  path  indicated  by  sign-posts. 
The    "View   comprises  the  entire  S.  half  of  the  Lake  District,   the  chief 


District.  WINDERMERE.  49.  Route.    387 

feature  being,  of  course,  the  beautiful  winding  Windermere  itself,  with 
its  clusters  of  islets  and  encircling  mountains.  The  most  prominent 
summits  are  the  Langdale  Pikes ,  rising  to  the  X.W. ,  near  the  head 
of  Windermere.  To  the  right  of  these  is  a  wooded  knoll  called  Lough- 
rigg  Fell,  Avith  Helm  Crag  rising  behind,  while  still  farther  to  the 
right  are  Fairfield,  Wansfell  Tike  (with  the  village  ot  Troutbeck), 
the  conspicuous  Red  Screes,  the  ridge  of  High  Street,  and  the  fine  cone 
of  111  Bell.  To  the  E.  is  a  long  series  of  featureless  hills  extending  to 
Ingleborough  in  Yorkshire,  on  the  S.E.  To  the  left  (W.)  of  the  Langdale 
Pikes  rise  the  fine  peak  of  Bow  Fell,  Scafell  Pikes  (in  the  distance).  Pike 
o'  Blisco  and  the  three  Crinkle  Crags  (in  front),  the  rounded  Wetherlam, 
and  the  Coniston  Old  Man,  closing  the  mountain-screen  in  this  direcUon. 
To  the  S.  the  view  extends  to  Morecambe  Bay.  In  descending  we  may 
keep  more  to  the  right  and  pass  the  cottage  of  Elleruy  ^  the  former  re- 
sidence of  Christopher  North,  shaded  by  the  splendid  sycamore  of  which 
he  declared  it  were  easier  to  suppose  two  Shakespeares  than  such  another 
tree.  Below  it  we  reach  the  Ambleside  road,  where  we  may  either  turn 
to  the  left  for  (Vs  M.)  Windermere,  or  to  the  right  and  then  to  the  left  (at 
the  cross-roads)  for  (I3/4  M.)  Buwness. 

"Biscay  How  rises  immediately  behind  Bowness,  and  the  way  to  the 
top  (V2  hr.)  is  obvious.  The  view  is  similar  to  that  from  Orrest  Head, 
but  less  extensive.  —  (Jther  good  points  of  view  are  Miller  Brow.,  IV2  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Bowness,  on  the  road  to  Ambleside,  just  on  this  side  of  the  above- 
mentioned  cross-roads,  and  -Brant  Fell  (500  ft.),  ^I\  M.  to  the  S.E.  The  road 
to  the  latter  ascends  by  the  church  and  to  the  left  of  the  Crown  Hotel. 

Windermere,  or  Winandermere  (the  'winding  lake',  or,  per- 
liaps ,  'Windar's  lake'),  is  the  largest  lake  in  England,  being 
IOV2  M.  in  length  and  i/a-l  M.  broad.  It  lies  134  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level,  and  its  greatest  depth  is  219  ft.  Its  banks  are  beautifully 
wooded  and  enlivened  with  numerous  villas.  The  N.  end  of  Win- 
dermere is  enclosed  by  an  amphitheatre  of  lofty  mountains.  At 
the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  6  M.  from  Bowness  (reached  by  crossing 
the  Ferry  ^  3/^  M.  below  Bowness,  and  following  the  shady  road  on 
the  W.  bank),  lies  Lake  Side  (*Lake  Side  Hotel;  Railway  Refreshmt. 
Rooms),  the  terminus  of  the  railway  from  Carnforth  (see  p.  384). 

Steamer  on  Windeemere  (see  p.  386).  Leaving  Lake  Side,  the  steamboat 
steers  to  the  17.,  up  the  middle  of  the  lake,  which  is  here  not  wider  than 
a  river  of  moderate  size.  The  banks  are  well  wooded.  To  the  right 
is  Gunnner's  How  (1054  ft.).  We  pass  a  few  islets,  and  then  the  promon- 
tories called  Rawlinson  Nab  (left)  and  call  at  >S(orr's  Hall  Hotel  (right), 
with  a  small  observatory.  Here  Scott,  Wordsworth,  Southey,  Canning,  and 
Wilson  witnessed  a  regatta  held  in  honour  of  the  first-named  in  l!S'2o.  Be- 
yond Ramp  Holme  the  steamer  makes  its  first  halt  at  the  "Ferry  Hotel. 
situated  on  a  small  promontory  jutting  out  from  the  W.  bank  (ferry,  sec 
1'.  388).  It  then  steers  across  the  lake  towards  Bowness,  skirting  the 
well-wooded  5eZ?e /,s/e,  the  largest  island  in  the  lake  (V2M.  long;  landing 
forbidden).    Bowness,  see  p.  386. 

On  leaving  Bowness  the  steamer  threads  its  way  among  several 
islets  to  the  N.  of  Belle  Isle  and  enters  upon  the  most  picturesque  part 
of  the  voyage.  The  fine  amphitheatre  of  mountains  at  the  head  of  the 
lake  becomes  more  and  more  distinct.  Due  X.  is  Fairfield;  to  the  right  of 
it.  Red  Screes,  High  Street..  Froswick,  and  111  Bell;  to  the  left,  the  con- 
spicuous Langdale  Pikes.  To  the  W.  rise  Wetherlam  and  the  Coniston 
Old  Man  (comp.  p.  389).  To  the  right  opens  the  little  glen  of  Trout- 
beck^  which  flows  into  the  lake  through  the  woods  of  Calgarth.  On  the 
shore  to  the  left,  a  little  farther  on,  is  ^Vvay  Castle,  a  modern  castellated 
mansion ,  rising  above  the  trees.  The  steamer  then  stops  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  lake  at  the  '  Loic  Wood  Hotel,  a  large  establishment  close  to  the 
shore.   High  up  on  the  same  side  is  Dove  Nest,  once  the  temporarv  home 

25* 


38 S     Route  49.  CONISTON.  The  Lake 

of  Mrs.  Hemans.  At  the  liead  of  the  lake  open  out  the  valleys  of  the  Brat/iay 
(to  the  left)  and  the  Rothay ^  which  unite  their  waters  just  before  enter- 
ing the  lake.  To  the  left  is  Pull  Wyke  Bay.  We  then  reach  the  pier  of 
Waterhead  (Hotel;  Restaurant,  with  lodgings,  at  the  pier),  the  station  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  lake.  Omnibuses  for  (8/4  M.)  Ambleside  (p.  392)  and  (5  M.) 
Grasmere  (p.  394)  meet  the  steamers. 

From  Bowkess  to  Esthwaite  Water,  Hawkshead,  and  Co- 
NisTON,  10  M.  (coach,  see  p.  386).  The  road  leads  to  the  S.  from 
Bowness  to  the  (1  M.)  Nab  Ferry,  which  walkers  may  reach  by  a 
shorter  footpath  (3/^  M.)  to  the  right.  The  lake  here  is  only  Y3  M. 
wide,  and  the  ferry-boat  plies  at  short  intervals  during  the  day  (fare 
2d.;  carr.  la.-35.  6rf.).    On  the  other  side  is  the  Ferry  Hotel  (p.  387). 

From  the  Ferry  Hotel  the  road  ascends,  skirting  the  Claife 
Heights.,  to  (II/4  M.)  Far  Sawrey  (Inn)  and  (I/2  M.)  Near  Sawrey, 
and  then  descends  to  the  right  to  (^2  ^^O  Esthwaite  Water  (217  ft.), 
a  small  lake,  1^/4  M.  long  and  ^3  ^l*  broad.  Our  road  skirts  the  F. 
side  of  the  lake  and  then  turns  to  the  left. 

11/4  M.  Hawkshead  (Red  Lion),  a  quaint  and  very  irregular  little 
town,  with  the  grammar-school  at  which  Wordsworth  was  educated. 
His  name  is  cut  on  one  of  the  oaken  benches.  The  school  was 
founded  in  1585  by  Abp.  Sandys,  a  native  of  Hawkshead. 

The  road  leading  straight  on  (to  the  N.)  from  Hawkshead  runs 
to  Ambleside.  Our  road  turns  to  the  left  and  ascends  to  (IV2  ^0 
HigJi  Cross  (600  ft.) ,  the  culminating  point  of  the  route  ,  where  it 
joins  the  road  from  Ambleside  to  Coniston  (see  p.  393).  We  now 
descend ,  facing  the  Old  Man  and  Wetherlam ,  with  the  Yewdale 
Crags  in  front  of  them ,  and  enjoying  fine  glimpses  of  Coniston 
Lake  to  the  left,  to  (2  M.)  the  head  of  the  lake,  whence  the  road 
loads  past  the  Waterhead  Hotel  to  (1  M.)  the  village  of  Coniston. 

Coniston  (*  Waterhead  Hotel,  1/2  ^^-  ^^om  the  village,  near  the 
pier;  Crown,  in  the  village,-  Lodgings),  the  terminus  of  a  railway 
from  Carnforth  and  Furness  Abbey  (see  p.  384)  ,  is  finely  situated 
at  the  foot  of  the  Old  Man ,  ^/^  M.  from  the  lake,  and  is  a  pleasant 
centre  for  excursionists  and  anglers.  —  Coniston  Lake  (147  ft. ), 
a  'miniature  Windermere',  is  5^2  ^1-  long,  about  1/2  ^'^-  broad,  and 
260  ft.  deep  at  the  deepest  part.  The  most  picturesque  part  of  it 
is  the  N.  end,  with  the  mountains  rising  above  it.  but  the  beauti- 
fully-wooded banks  lower  down  have  a  charm  of  their  own.  The 
best  view  down  the  lake  is  obtained  from  Tarn  Hows  (see  below). 
A  small  steamer  plies  up  and  down  the  lake  (3/4  hr.  each  way ; 
fare  Is.,  return  Is.  6d.).  At  the  lower  end  is  Lake  Bank  Hotel, 
which  is  81/2  M.  from  Ulverston  (p.  384)  and  51/2  M-  from  Greenodd, 
a  station  on  the  Lake  Side  line  (p.  384).  As  we  descend  the  lake 
the  distant  tops  of  Helvellyn ,  Fairfield,  and  Red  Screes  come  into 
sight  on  the  N.  and  N.E.  Among  the  houses  on  the  E.  bank  are 
Tent  House  (opposite  the  Waterhead  Hotel),  where  Tennyson  once 
lived,  and  Brantwood,  1  M.  lower  down,  the  home  of  Ruskin. 

The  mo.'^t  attractive  point  for  a  short  walk  from  Coniston  is  (2'/-  M.) 
Tarn  Hous^    which   pedestrians   may  easily  include   by  a  slight  detour  on 


District.  DUDDON  VALLKY.  49.  Route.     389 

their  way  from  Bowness  or  Ambleside.  We  follow  the  Bowness  (or  Am- 
bleside) road  to  a  point  about  3/«  M.  beyond  the  Waterhead  Hotel,  where 
we  diverge  to  the  left,  nearly  opposite  the  gate  of  Waterhead  House,  and 
ascend  through  the  wooded  dell  to  (^4  M.)  Tarn  Hows  Farm  (to  the  left). 
The  high  ground  to  the  right,  farther  on,  commands  a  beautiful  *View,  In 
returning  we  may  descend  by  a  steep  path  into  Yeicdale  (p.  393),  which 
we  reach  near  the  celebrated  yew  (p.  393).  or  take  the  opposite  direction 
and  descend  to  the  Bowness  road  near  High  Cross  (p.  38S). 

A.SCENT  OF  TiiE  C'ONisTON  Old  Man,  V/z  hr.  (ponies  obtainable  at  the 
hotels).  There  are  various  ways  of  making  this  ascent,  but  if  the  summit 
i.s  not  concealed  by  mist  the  climber  will  not  need  much  guidance.  The 
slopes  of  the  fell  are  covered  with  copper-mines  and  slate-quarries,  and 
the  interest  of  a  visit  to  the  former  (apply  to  the  manager)  scarcely  com- 
pensates for  the  disfigurement  of  the  scenery.  The  regular  pony-track 
ascends  along  a  stream  descending  from  the  copper -mines,  passes  the 
mines,  and  then  climbs  to  the  left  towards  a  conspicuous  slate-quarry, 
near  the  Low  Water  Tarn.  Hence  we  ascend  to  the  S  ,  passing  another 
quarry,  and  soon  reach  the  top.  The  summit  of  the  *01d  Man  (2633  ft.), 
the  name  of  which  is  a  corruption  of  AUt  Maen  {i.e.  'steep  rock"),  com- 
mands a  *View  of  great  charm.  To  the  N.  is  an  expanse  of  rugged  fells, 
culminating  in  the  distant  Skiddaw,  to  the  right  of  which  are  ranged 
Helvellyn,  High  Street,  and  111  Bell.  To  the  E.  we  look  over  Coniston 
Water,  Esthwaite  Water,  and  parts  of  Windermere,  with  the  Yorkshire 
hills  in  the  background.  To  the  S.  are  3Iorecambe  Bay  and  Black  Combe; 
and  the  summit  of  Snowdon  is  visible  in  clear  weather  beyond  the  expanse 
of  sea.  The  view  to  the  W.  also  includes  the  sea  and  the  Isle  of  Man. 
The  tarn  high  up  among  the  fells  is  Devoke  Water.  To  the  N.W.  tower 
Scafell  and  Scafell  Pike.  The  immediate  foreground  is  filled  with  the 
other  members  of  the  range  of  which  the  Old  Man  is  the  loftiest  summit 
(Wetherlam,  the  Carrs,  Dow  Crag,  etc.).  Three  small  tarns.  Levers  Water 
and  Low  Water  to  the  N.,  and  Blind  Tarn  to  the  S.W.,  are  visible;  and 
by  going  a  few  yards  to  the  W.,  we  see  a  fourth.  Goats  Water  (1646  ft.). 
at  our  feet.  The  descent  may  be  varied  in  many  ways.  We  may  walk 
along  the  ridge  connecting  the  summit  with  Dow  Crag  (2555  ft.)  and  descend 
by  the  Walna  Scar  Pass  (2035  ft.);  or  we  may  descend  to  Seathwaite  Tarn 
and  follow  the  brook  issuing  from  it  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Duddon 
(see  below),  returning  to  Coniston  by  the  Walna  Scar  road,  or  following 
the  Duddon  to  Broughton  and  returning  thence  by  train.  Good  walkers 
may  make  their  way  to  the  top  of  (2  hrs.)  Wetherlam  (2502  ft. ;  view) 
and  descend  thence  either  into  the  (1  hr.)  Tilberthwaite  Glen  (p.  390),  or 
by  the  N.E.  side  to   (1  hr.)  Smithi/  Bouses  (p.  393). 

The  Duddon  Valley.  The  easiest  way  to  visit  this  valley,  immor- 
talised by  Wordsworth  in  his  'Sonnets  to  the  Duddon\  is  to  take  the  train 
to  (8'/"^  M.)  Broughlon-in-Furness,  and  drive  or  walk  thence  along  the  river. 
It  may  also  be  reached  by  the  path  over  the  Walna  Scar  (2035  ft ).  to  the  S. 
of  the  Old  Man.  with  the  ascent  of  which  it  may  be  combined.  The  Duddon 
rises  near  the  Wrynose  Pass  (see  below),  14  M.  above  Broughton,  where  its 
sandy  estuary  begins,  and  forms  the  boundary  between  Cumberland  (W.l 
and  Lancashire  (E.).  There  is  a  good  little  inn  at  Ulpha,  5'  '2  M.  above  Brough- 
ton, where  the  route  to  Dalegarth  Force.,  Eskdale,  and  Wast  Wnter  (p.  407» 
diverges  to  the  left.  About  2V2  M.  farther  on  is  Seathwaite  Church,  of  which 
'Wonderful  Walker'  was  rector  for  67  years  (1735-1802),  governing  his  parish 
with  'an  entirely  healthy  and  absolutely  autocratic  rule",  leading  the  way 
tn  all  manual  labour  as  well  as  instructing  his  people  in  spiritual  matters, 
bringing  up  and  educating  eight  children,  and  leaving  2000?.-  —  all  on  an 
annual  stipend  of  less  than  50i.  I  He  is  buried  in  the  churchyard.  About 
'/•_'  M.  beyond  the  church  the  road  over  the  Walna  Scar  Pass  (see  above) 
diverges  to  the  right  (to  Coniston  5  M.).  From  this  point,  too,  we  may 
ascend  along  the  Seathwaite  Beck  to  Seutfiuaite  Tarn,  and  thence  to  the 
top  of  the  Old  Mail  (see  above).  It  is,  however,  better  to  foUnw  the 
Duddon  to  a  point  nearly  opposite  the  head  of  Seathwaite  Tarn,  and  then 
make  for  the  tarn  (1/4  51  )  straight  across  country.  — From  the  head  of  the 
Duddon  valley  the  Wrynose  Puss  ii210  (t.)  leads  to  the  E.,  past  the 'Three 


390     Route  49.  TILBERTHWAITE.  The  Lake 

Shire  Stone",  wliere  Lancashire,  Cumberland,  and  Westmorland  meet, 
into  Little  Langdale  (p.  393)-,  and  the  Hardknott  Pass  (1290  ft.)  leads  to  the 
W.,  past  Hardknott  Castle,  a  fairly  preserved  Koman  camp,  to  Boot  in 
Eskdale  (p.  408).  Eskdale  may  also  be  reached  more  directly  from  the 
Duddon  by  a  path  skirting  the  S.W.  side  of  EaHer  Fell  (2140  ft.). 

From  Coniston  to  Dungeox  Gill  via  Tilberthwaite  and  Fell  Foot, 
8  M.  (rough  road,  barely  passable  for  carriages).  The  road  diverges  to 
the  left  (X.)  from  the  Bowness  rtiad  near  the  Crown  Hotel,  and  ascends 
through  Yewdale,  skirting  the  foot  of  Yendale  Crag  (1050  ft.).  At  the 
(IV2  M-)  fork  we  ascend  to  the  left  through  Tilherthwaite  Glen  and  skirt 
the  beck.  To  the  right  are  the  richly-tinted  rocks  of  Holme  Fell  and 
Raven  Crag.  About  1  M.  farther  on  we  cross  the  beck.  [To  the  left 
here  opens  ""Tilberthicaite  Gill^  a  most  romantic  little  gorge,  which  the 
path  ascends  by  bridges,  steps,  and  ladders.  At  the  upper  end  is  a  pretty 
waterfall.]  Beyond  (V4  M.)  High  Tilberthtcaite  Farm  our  track  leads  through 
the  gate  to  the  left  (the  right  gate  leading  to  ^ew  Houses.,  p.  393).  It 
first  ascends  past  some  slate-auarries,  and  then  descends,  keeping  to  the 
left,  to  the  farm  of  {i^/o  11.)  Fell  Foot,  which  is  surrounded  by  yew-trees. 
Ill  Bell,  Fairfield.  Helvellvn  .  and  the  Langdale  Pikes  come  into  sight  as 
we  proceed.  To  the  E.  of  Fell  Foot  lies  th.e  Little  Langdale  Tarn  (SiO  ft.), 
and  to  the  W.  rises  the  Pike  0'  Blisco  (2304  ft.).  The  road  to  the  Wrynose 
Pas.^  (see  p.  389)  is  seen  ascending  to  the  left.  Just  on  this  side  of  Fell 
Foot  we  cross  the  Bratliay  and  turn  to  the  right.  After  a  few  hundred  yards 
we  turn  to  the  left,  and  follow  the  slope  of  Lingmoor  Fell.  We  are  now 
on  the  classic  ground  of  Wordsworth's  'Excursion'.  To  the  left  is  Bleu 
Tarn  (612  ft.),  with  the  Solitary's  cottage,  while  to  the  right  the  Lang- 
dale Pikes  suddenly  come  into  sight.  About  V2  M.  beyond  the  tarn  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  pass  (700  ft.)  and  begin  the  steep  descent  into  Great 
Langdale  (*View).  We  pass  the  Wall  End  Farm,  and  soon  see  the  Old 
Dungeon  Gill  Hotel,  at  the  base  of  the  Langdale  Pikes.  The  New  Dungeon 
Gill  Hotel  is  at  Millbeck,  1  M.  lower  down,  near  the  fall  (comp.  p.  393). 
The  route  hence  to  Grasmere  is  described  at  p.  394. 

From  Coniston  to  Ambleside.,  see  route  described  in  the  reverse  direc- 
tion at  p.  393.  Coniston  may  also  be  made  the  starting-point  for  the  com- 
bination circular  tour  there  mentioned.  —  Those  who  wish  to  return  from 
Coniston  to  Bowness  may  vary  the  above  route  by  following  the  Amble- 
side road  to  (71/2  M.)    Waterhead  (p.  388),  and  going  on  thence  by  steamer. 

From  "WiNDERMBRB  (and  Bowness)  to  Ambleside,  Grasmerk, 
AND  Keswick,  21  M.,  coacli  several  times  daily  in  summer  in  4  lirs. 
(fare  6s.  6d. ;  to  Ambleside  I5.  6d.,  to  Grasmere  2s.  6cf,).  This  fine 
drive  takes  the  traveller  through  the  heart  of  the  Lake  District.  The 
distances  are  calculated  from  Windermere  station;  from  Bowness 
(p.  386),  whence  the  morning  coaches  start,  add  IV2  M. 

From  the  station  the  road  leads  to  the  N.W. ,  passing  the  grounds 
of  Elleray  (p.  387)  on  the  right,  and  beyond  the  (3/4  M.)  cross-roads 
(to  Bowness  on  the  left  and  Patterdale  on  the  right)  descends 
tlirough  trees  to  (1/2  M.)  Troutbeck  Bridge  (Sun  Hotel).  To  the  left 
are  Calgarth  Hall  and  Park.  At  (3  M.)  Low  Wood  Hotel  (p.  387) 
we  reach  the  shore  of  the  lake,  which  the  road  skirts  to  (1  M.)  Wa- 
terhead (p.  388),  passing  helow  Dove  Nest  (p.  387;  to  the  right). 
We  now  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Rothay  (to  the  left  a  road  leading 
to  Rothay  Bridge!  to  (8/4  M.)  Ambleside  (p.  392). 

Quitting  Ambleside,  we  pass,  on  the  left,  the  ivy-clad  Knoll, 
the  former  residence  of  Harriet  Martineau,  and,  across  the  Rothay, 
at  the  foot  of  Loughrigg  Fell,  Fox  Howe,  the  home  of  Dr.  Arnold. 
To  the  right  opens  the  small  valley  of  the  Scandale  Beck,  and  on 


District.  THIRLMERE.  49.  Route.     391 

the  same  side  is  the  richly-wooded,  park  oi  RydaL  Halt.  II/4  M. 
Rydal,  a  small  village  near  the  E.  end  of  Rydal  Water  (180  ft.), 
a  pretty  little  lake,  3/^  M.  long  and  1/4  M.  wide. 

To  reach  Rydal  Mount,  the  home  of  Wordsworth  from  1817  till  his 
death  in  1850,  we  ascend  the  steep  road  to  the  right  for  170  yds.  A  glimpse  of 
the  house,  on  a  small  hill  behind  the  church,  almost  hidden  by  the  trees, 
is  got  from  the  coach.     It  contains  no  relics  of  the  poet  and  is  not  shown. 

The  pretty  little  Falls  of  the  Rydal  are  within  the  grounds  of  Rydal 
Hall.,  the  seat  of  the  Le  Flemings,  and  a  guide  must  be  obtained  at  a 
cottage  below  the  church,  to  the  left.  The  two  falls  are  about  1/2  M. 
apart,  and  the  upper  one  is  about  3/4  M.  from  the  highroad. 

Walkers  to  Grasmere  may  leave  the  highroad  at  Rydal,  take  the  first 
turning  to  the  left  beyond  Rydal  Mount,  and  follow  a  path  along  the  W. 
slope  of  Nab  Scar  (views),  which  joins  a  narrow  road  at  White  Moss  and 
reaches  the  highroad  just  beyond  the  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel  (see  below). 

The  coach-road  now  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  Rydal  Water,  passing 
'Nah  Cottage.,  where  Hartley  Coleridge  (d.  1849)  lived  for  many 
years.  Silver  Howe  and  Serjeant  Man  rise  in  front.  Beyond  Rydal 
Water  the  road  turns  sharply  round  a  wooded  knoll,  and  discloses  a 
lovely  *View  of  Grasmere  lake  and  vale.  The  fells  in  front  (left 
to  right)  are  Helm  Crag,  Steel  Fell,  Seat  Sandal,  and  Great  Rigg. 
The  coach  skirts  the  lake  for  1/2  M.,  and  a  little  beyond  the  Prince 
of  Wales  Hotel  turns  to  the  left.  (Walkers  who  do  not  call  at 
the  village  may  save  1/4  M.  by  keeping  to  the  right  here,  rejoining 
the  coach-road  at  the  Swan  Hotel.)  —  9  M.  (from  Windermere) 
Grasmere.  see  p.  394. 

About  1/2  ^1-  beyond  the  village  of  Grasmere  we  pass  the  Swan 
Hotel ,  a  little  to  tlie  right,  and  soon  begin  the  long  ascent  to  the 
(3  M.)  top  of  the  Dunmail  Raise  Pass  (780  ft.) ,  between  Steel 
Fell  (1811  ft.)  on  the  left  and  Seat  Sandal  (2415  ft.)  on  the  right. 
The  scenery  becomes  wilder.  To  the  left  we  have  a  good  view  of 
Helm  Crag  (p.  394).  The  wall  at  the  top  of  the  pass  is  the  bound- 
ary between  Cumberland  and  Westmorland,  and  the  heap  of  stones 
is  said  to  mark  the  grave  of  Dunmail,  last  king  of  Cumbria.  We  now 
obtain  a  view  of  Thirlmere,  with  Helvellyn  to  the  right  and  Skiddaw 
in  the  distance.  About  I1/4  M.  below  the  pass,  and  1  M.  from  the 
S.  end  of  Thirlmere,  we  reach  Wythburn  (Inn). 

Thirlmere  (533  ft.)  is  nearly  3  M.  long,  and  nowhere  more 
than  1/3  M.  wide.  Its  greatest  depth  is  128  ft.  The  W.  side,  oppo- 
site Helvellyn,  is  bordered  with  picturesque  woods  and  crags. 

Thirlmere  and  the  surrounding  country  as  far  as  the  watersheds  are 
now  the  property  of  the  Manchester  Corporation,  who  have  made  the  lake 
a  reservoir,  raising  the  water-level  20  ft.  by  means  of  a  dam  at  the  N. 
end.  As  compensation  a  line  road  has  been  made  along  the  W.  bank 
(preferable  for  pedestrians),  which  is  traversed  by  public  conveyances 
between  Grasmere  and  Keswick. 

The  through  coach-road  runs  above  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake,  at  the 
base  of  Helvellyn,  for  about  1  M.  From  the  top  of  a  long  gradual  as- 
cent itcouimands  a  line  view  of  the  Vale  of  St.  John,  with  Saddleback 
(or  Rlencathara)  in  the  background.  The  wooded  knoll  to  the  left  is 
Great  How  (1090  ft.).    We  pass  (I  M.)  the  little  King's  Head  Inn, 


392     Route  49.  AMBLESIDE.  The  Lake 

at  Thirlspot ;  ^/^  M.  farther  on,  the  road  down  the  Yale  of  St.  John 
diverges  to  the  left.  The  Castle  Rock  of  St.  John,  celebrated  by  Scott 
in  'The  Bridal  of  Triermain',  now  rises  on  the  right  (1000  ft.).  For 
the  next  3  M.  the  scenery  is  less  interesting,  but  when  we  reach  the 
top  of  the  ridge  called  CastleRigg,  we  arerepaidby  a  charming*  View 
of  tlie  vale  of  Keswick,  with  the  lakes  of  Derwentwater  and  Bassen- 
thwaite.  Skiddaw  and  Blencathara  rise  in  front;  to  the  W.  are  the 
fells  round  Newlands  (p.  402)  and  Buttermere  (p.  40'2).  We  have 
still  a  descent  of  I1/4  M.  to  reach  Keswick  (see  p.  399). 

Foot-passengers  may  leave  this  route  at  Armboth.  halfway  down  the 
W.  bank  of  Thirlmere,  and  proceed  to  the  W.  bv  a  bridle-path  across 
the  Armboth  Fell  (158S  ft.)  to  (IV4  hr.)  Watendlath ,  5  M.  from  Keswick 
(comp.  p.  402). 

Ambleside  ('*Ǥ(://w^a<ion,  *()wcen's,  '^ White  Lion,  in  the  town; 
WaterJiead  Hotel,  on  the  lake,  ^/^  M.  from  the  town;  Lodgings),  a 
small  town  with  about  2360  inhab.,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the 
valley  of  the  Rothay,  at  the  foot  of  Wansfell  Pike,  and  3/4  M.  from 
the  head  of  Windermere.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman 
station,  and  fragments  of  tesselated  pavements  and  other  remains 
have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  is  perhaps  the  best 
headquarters  for  excursions  in  the  S.  part  of  the  Lake  District,  and 
has  abundant  omnibus  and  coach  communication  with  Waterhead 
(p.  388),  Grasmere,  Windermere  railway-station,  Coniston,  Kes- 
wick, and  Patterdale.  The  Church  of  St.  Mary,  built  by  Sir  G.  G. 
Scott,  contains  a  stained-glass  window  to  the  memory  of  Wordsworth. 

Excursions  from  Ambleside.  From  the  hotels  a  road  and  path  ascend 
by  the  stream  to  (V2  M.)  "Stock  Gill  Force,  a  romantic  little  fall  abuut 
TO  ft.  high,  with  picturesque  surroundings  (adm  3d.).  —  To  the  ('2  M.)  Rydal 
Falls,  see  p.  391.  —  A  pleasant  walk  in  the  prettily-wooded  valley  of  the 
Rotliay  may  be  taken  by  crossing  the  river  near  the  church  and  ascending 
un  the  right  bank,  pa'st  Fox  Howe  (p.  390),  to  (i^A  M.)  Pelter  Bridge. 
Then  back  by  the  high-road  (1  M.).  —  Another  excellent  view  of  Winder- 
mere is  obtained  from  Ve«Ain"«  Crag,  11/2  M  to  the  S.  —  Other  short 
walks  may  be  taken  to  Skeltcith  Force  (p.  393),  Colwiih  Force  (p.  393), 
'  Loughrigg  Terrace  (see  below),  Tvouibeck  (p.  396),  etc. 

Ascents.  The  ascent  oiWansfell  Pike  (1597  ft.),  rising  to  the  E.  of  Amble- 
side, takes  3/4-I  hr.  The  best  route  is  via  Stock  Gill  Force,  beyond  which 
we  bend  to  the  right  and  follow  a  path  recently  made  by  the  Lake  Dis- 
trict Association.  The  top  affords  a  charming  view  of  Windermere.  Gras- 
mere, and  Rydal,  with  numerous  mountains  in  the  distance.  The  descent 
may  be  made  on  the  S.E.  by  a  path  marked  by  stakes  to  T'roj/ifceci- (p.  39G) 
in  11/2  hr.,  whence  we  return  via  (2  M.)  Low  Wood  (p.  387)  to  ('2  M.) 
Ambleside. — ''Loughrigg  Fell  (1100  ft.)  may  be  ascended  by  several  routes, 
and  its  long  uneven  top  affords  a  variety  of  views.  The  easiest  route  (about 
1  hr.)  is  by  the  path  ascending  from  Clappersgaie  (p.  393).  1  M.  to  the 
S.W.  ;  the  shortest  ascends  from  the  bridge  near  St.  Mary's  Church  (see 
above).  —  The  Fox  Gill  ascent  begins  behind  Fox  Howe  (see  above).  The 
descent  (steep)  may  be  made  by  Loughrigg  Terrace  and  Red  Bank  to  Gras- 
mere (p.  394).  —  The  top  of  A'a&  Scar,  the  southernmost  spur  of  Fair- 
Held,  may  be  reached  from  Ambleside  via  Rydal  in  I-IV2  hr.  We  follow 
the  road  past  Rydal  Mount  as  far  as  it  goes,  and  ascend  a  green  slope 
between  two  walls.  —  Fairfield  (2863  ft.)  itself  may  be  reached  by  follow- 
ing the  ridge  to  the  ^".  from  Xab  Scar  (2-3  hrsl  from  Ambleside;  fine 
views),  but  the  usual  :iscent  is  by  the  bridle-path  ascending  from  the 
Swan  Inn  near  Grasmere  (p  891).      Ascent  of  the  Langdale  Pikes,  see  p.  393. 


District.  LANGDALE.  49.  Route.     393 

Fkom  Ambleside  to  Cuniston  by  Bakn  Gates  and  back  bv  Oxeni-ell 
(to  Coniston  71/2  M.,  back  8  M.).  This  round  is  made  daily  in  summer  by 
chars-a-banc  (fare  bs.).  Circular  tour  tickets  are  also  issued  at  Amble- 
side for  Cuniston,  Purness  Abbey  (train),  Lake  Side  (train),  Waterhead 
(steamer),  and  back  to  Ambleside  by  omnibus  (fares  8«.  9d.,  (ji.  G(/,,  5s. 
(id.-,  tickets  available  for  a  week).  —  The  ruad  leads  to  the  S.W.,  crosses 
(I/2  M.)  Rothay  Bridge.,  and  skirts  the  S.  slopes  of  Loughrigg  Fell.  At 
(1  M.)  the  village  of  Clappersgate  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  road 
to  the  Langdales  (see  below)  and  crciss  Bratha;/  Bridge.  We  then  traverse 
a  well-wooded  district  at  the  head  of  Pull  Wyke  Bay  (to  the  left.  Bratha;! 
Hall).,  tliverge  to  the  right  from  the  Hawkshead  mad,  and  ascend  to  (2  11.) 
Barn  Gatex  Inn.,  where  we  obtain  a  good  mountain  view.  At  (2  M.)  High 
Cross  we  join  the  route  from  Bowness,  described  at  p.  388.  2'/-^  M.  ('oni<- 
ton,  see  p.  3S8.  —  On  the  return-route  we  strike  to  the  X.  thro<igh  Yewdale. 
turn  to  the  right  after  1'/-.j  M.,  and  ascend  past  High  Yewdale  Farm.  The 
patriarchal  yew  for  which  the  dale  was  celebrated  was  all  but  destroyed 
by  a  stoi-m  in  December,  1894.  A])0ut  this  point  the  road  turns  to  the 
left  and  ascends  on  the  slope  of  Oxenfell  t(»  (2V2  M.)  the  top  of  the  pass 
(500  ft.;  view).  Farther  on  (2/4  M.),  a  road  diverges  on  the  left  to  Colwith 
Force  (see  below).  To  the  left  is  EUericaier  Tani.,  near  which  is  a  small 
cottage-factory  (St.  Martin's),  where  Mr.  Albert  Fleming  has  resuscitated 
the  old  Lakeside  industries  of  spinning  and  hand-loom  weaving.  <^)ur 
road  descends  to  the  right  to  (1  M.)  Skelwith  Bridge.,  over  the  Brathay, 
which  forms  the  small  fall  of  Skelwith  Force  3(X)  yds.  farther  up.  We  then 
skirt  the  base  of  Loughrigg  Fell  to  (2  M.)  Brathay  Bridge  (p.  390). 

Tour  of  the  Langdales,  19V2  M.,  coach  daily  in  summer  in  6  hrs. 
(fare  4i.).     From  Ambleside  to  (3  M.)  Skelwith  Bridge.,  see  above.     About 

1  M.  farther  on  we  diverge  to  the  right  from  the  road  to  Coniston  and 
descend  to  Colwith  Bridge  ,  just  beyond  which  the  road  forks.  [We  may 
here  stop  to  visit  Colwith  Force.,  a  cascade  in  the  pretty  little  valley  to 
the  right  (key  kept  at  a  cottage  by  the  fork;  ?,d.).\  Our  road  ascends  to  the 
left,  a  little  "above  the  fall,  through  the  vale  of  Little  Langdale ,  which 
is  separated  from  Great  Langdale  by  Lingmoor  Fell  (to  the  right).  Keyond 
the  (1  M.)  hamlet  of  Smithy  Hou.^es  we  pass  Little  Langdale  Tarn  (340  ft.) 
and  a  little  farther  on,  near  Fell  Foot,  join  the  route  described  at  p.  390. 

The  coach  stops  at  one  of  the  hotels  (p.  390)  for  luncheon,  and  ample 
time  is  allowed  for  a  visit  to  'Dungeon  Gill  Force  (Vj  M.  from  either  hotel), 
romantically  situated  in  a  narrow  gorge,  hemmed  in  by  vertical  walls 
of  rock  and  making  a  perpendicular  descent  of  about  70  ft.  Above  the 
fall  is  a  curious  natural  bridge  formed  by  two  rocks  firmly  wedged  be- 
tween the  sides  of  the  ravine.  Those  who  have  come  from  the  Old  Hotel 
may  descend  the  hill  to  the  Kew  Hotel  and  there  rejoin  the  coach. 

[Dungeon  Gill  is  the  best  starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  the  Langdale 
Pikes  (Harrison  Stickle  '2400ft.;  Pike  o'^Stickle  23'2S  ft  ),  which  takes  lV2-'-2hrs. 
(pony  and  guide  10*.).  We  ascend  in  w  indings  near  the  Dungeon  Gill  beck 
(with  the  stream  to  the  right).  As  we  approach  the  final  part  of  tlie 
ascent  the  Pike  0'  Stickle  rises  to  the  left  and  the  Harrison  Stickle  to  the 
right,  but  to  reach  the  latter  we  have  to  make  a  detour  to  the  left  round 
a  spur.  The  view-  from  the  top  is  somewhat  circumscribed ,  but  com- 
mands I^angdale  and  Windermere.  The  descent  may  be  made  by  Stickle 
Tarn  (1540  ft.),  below  Harrison  Stickle.  The  route,  which  is  unmistakable, 
passes  between  the  Pavey  Ark  Rocks  on  the  X.  bank  of  the  tarn,  and  then 
descends  along  the  beck.  —  Grasmere  may  be  reached  in  2-2V2  hrs.  by 
keeping  to  the  N.  from  Stickle  Tarn  and  climbing  the  ridge  in  front, 
until  a  point  is  reached  from  which  we  lonk  down  upon  Grasmere.  In  de- 
scending we  keep  to  the  right  of  Codale  Tarn  and  Easdale  Turn.  From 
the  Pike  o'  Stickle  we  may  descend  on  the  N.W.  to  the  Stake  Pass  (p.  403) 
•d-nii  Borrvwdale  (seep.  401).  —  Bowfell  (2960  ft.;  'View)  may  be  ascended 
from  Old  Dungeon  Gill  Hotel  in  2-21/4  hrs.,  via  Stool  End  Farm  and  the 
shoulder  called  the  Band.] 

From  Dungeon  Gill  our  road  runs  to  the  K.  through  the  green  valley 
of  Great  Langdale,  alYordiug  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  Langdale  Pikes.    About 

2  M.  beyond  Millbeck  we  reach  Langdale  Church  and  the  vilhiiie  of  Chapel 


394    Route  49.  GRASMERE.  The  Lake 

Stile  ^  on  the  fells  near  which  are  numerous  slate-quarries.  Here  the 
road  forks,  and  walkers  who  wish  to  return  direct  to  (5  M.)  Ambleside 
follow  the  branch  to  the  right,  passing  Elterwater  and  Loughrigg  Tarn. 
[A  new  road  starting  i/i'  M.  beyond  the  turn  for  Elterwater  village  reaches 
Skelwith  Bridge  in  I1/4  M. ;  it  is  easier  and  finer  Ihan  the  old  road.]  The 
coach  ascends  the  road  to  the  left  and  soon  reaches  the  top  of  the  saddle 
between  Silver  How  and  Loughrigg  Fell ,  where  we  have  a  good  retro- 
spect of  the  Langdale  Pikes,  Bowfell,  and  other  summits.  As  we  descend, 
a  fine  ''View  of  Grasmere  is  disclosed.  To  enjoy  this  to  the  full  we  diverge 
to  the  right  a  little  farther  on.  pass  through  agate  marked  'private',  and 
follow  the  drive  to  the  so-called  Red  Bank,  a  bare  spot  on  the  N.  side  of 
Loughrigg  Fell.  We  return  by  another  'private'  drive  (to  the  right),  which 
brings  us  out  on  the  road,  IV4  M.  from  the  village  of  Grasmere.  The  road 
leads  round  the  S.W.  side  of  the  lake.  Grasmere,  see  below.  From  Gras- 
mere to  (4  M.)  Ambleside,  see  pp.  390,  391. 

Other  excursions  may  be  made  from  Ambleside  to  (8V2  M.)  Patterdale 
(coach  daily,  joining  the  route  from  Windermere  at  the  Kirkstone  Pass, 
reached  from  Ambleside  by  a  steep  ascent  of  3  M.  through  the  valley  of 
the  Stock  Gill  Beck;  comp.  p.  392);  to  Wusdale  Head  (p.  407),  either  by  the 
Wrynose  Pass,  Hardknott  Pass,  Eskdale,  Boot,  and  Burnmoor  Tarn  (23V4  M.), 
or  ^t J  Dungeon  Gill  (I'^/o  M.)  and  by  bridle-path  over  Psk  Hause  (2370  ft.; 
3-3V-'  hrs.;  comp.  p.  405);  and  to  Keswick  via  Great  Langdale  and  the  Stake 
Pass  (road  to  Dungeon  Gill  71/2  M. ;  bridle-path  over  the  pass  3-3V2  hrs.; 
road  from  Rosthwaite  to  Keswick  6'/2  M.). 

The  village  of  Grasmere  (^Prince  of  Wales,  on  the  lake,  V2  M. 
from  the  village,  R.  &  A.  is.,  D.  4s.;  *Rothay,  Red  Lion.,  in  the 
village ;  Swan,  V2  ^^^'  *o  the  N. ;  Lodgings)  is  charmingly  situated 
near  the  N.  end  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name ,  a  little  to  the 
W.  of  the  main  road  from  Ambleside  to  Keswick.  Wordsworth 
(d.  1850)  resided  here  in  Dove  Cottage  fadm.  6rf. ;  memorials)  from 
1799  to  1808,  and  is  buried  in  the  churchyard  (comp.  p.  390). 
Almost  every  point  in  the  neighbourhood  is  celebrated  in  his  poetry. 
*Grasiiiere  (208  ft.)  is  about  1  M.  long  and  nearly  1/0  ^'  broad 
in  the  middle;  its  greatest  depth  is  180  ft.  There  is  a  solitary 
green  island  in  the  centre.  Ferry  near  the  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel. 
Helm  Crag  (1300  ft.;  1  hr.),  rising  to  the  N.  of  Grasmere,  is  a  good 
point  of  view.  We  follow  the  Easedale  road  (see  below)  to  a  point  about 
V:?  M.  beyond  the  slab-bridge ,  diverge  to  the  right  between  two  houses, 
pass  through  a  gate  to  the  right,  and  ascend  by  a  wall.  When  the  wall 
Ijegins  to  descend  we  keep  to  the  left.  At  the  top  are  some  curious 
crags,  supposed  to  resemble,  when  seen  from  below,  a  lion  and  lamb,  an 
'Ancient  Woman  cowering  beside  her  rifted  celL,  the  'astrologer,  sage  Sidro- 
pher,  etc.  —  The  charming  *View  from  (I1/2  M.)  Red  Bank  has  been 
mentioned  above.  We  may  return  by  the  N.  side  of  Grasmere  (2^2  M.), 
crossing  the  Rothay  between  Grasmere  andRydal  lakes,  or  we  may  extend 
our  walk  to  include  a  circuit  of  Rydal  Water  (6  M.  in  all).  From  Red 
Bank  we  may  also  ascend  to  the  top  of  Loughrigg  Fell  (p.  392)  in  about 
1/2  hr.  —  Perhaps  the  best  short  walk  from  Grasmere  is  that  to  (2V2  M.) 
Easedale  Tarn.  There  is  a  bridle-path  all  the  way,  and  driving  is  practicable 
for  11/4  M.  The  route  leads  to  the  N.W.,  following  the  general  course  of 
the  Easedale  Beck.  The  turns  to  the  right  are  to  be  avoided.  About  Vs  M. 
from  the  village  the  road  crosses  the  stream  by  a  bridge,  and  a  little 
farther  on,  walkers  cross  it  again  by  a  slab-bridge  and  ascend  by  its 
right  bank.  As  we  approach  the  tarn  we  pass  Sotir  Milk  Force,  the  milky 
water  of  which  is  conspicuous.  Fine  retrospect  of  Grasmere.  The  tarn 
lies  in  a  secluded  valley,  915  ft.  above  the  sea  and  700  ft.  above  Grasmere. 
The  walk  may  be  prolonged  to  Dungeon  Gill  (l'/>-2  hrs.)  or  to  the  Langdale 
Pikes  (2-3  hrs.;  comp.  p.  393).  The  return  to  Grasmere  may  be  varied  by 
ascending  Silver  How  (1345  ft.),  which  rises  to  the  S.  (see  Map). 


District.  HELVELLYN.  49.  Route.     395 

Ascent  of  Helvellyn  (23/4-31/2  lirs.;  pony  and  guide  15*.,  both  un- 
necessary for  practised  climbers).  We  follow  the  highroad  to  Keswick 
(see  p.  391)  for  I1/4  M.,  to  a  bridge  3/4  M.  beyond  the  Swan  Hotel.  Here 
we  pass  through  a  gate  on  the  right  and  ascend  the  rough  track  to  the 
left  of  the  stream.  'Jo  the  right  is  the  charming  little  fall  of  Tongue  Gill 
Force  ^  to  which  a  digression  should  be  made.  Our  track  keeps  to  the 
left  and  can  scarcely  be  missed,  though  some  climbers  have  made  the 
mistake  of  taking  Seat  Sandal  (2il5ft.-,  to  the  left)  for  Ilelvellyn.  Fine 
retrospects  of  Grasmere  as  we  ascend.  In  about  1^/4  hr.  we  reach  the  top 
of  the  Grisedale  Pass  (1930  ft.),  between  Seat  Sandal  and  Fairfield  (2863  ft.), 
where  we  pass  through  a  gap  in  the  wall.  To  the  left  lies  Gi-isedale  Tarn 
(1768  ft.).  We  now  descend  to  the  (12  min.)  tarn,  cross  the  stream  issuing 
from  it,  and  ascend  by  the  steep  zigzag  track  to  the  left  to  Dollytcaggon 
Pike  (2810  ft.),  the  S.  and  lowest  extremity  of  the  Helvellyn  ridge.  The 
ascent  hence  to  the  summit,  reached  in  about  l-l'A  hr.  from  (irisedale 
Tarn,  is  comparatively  easy.  The  *View  from  Helvellyn  (3118  ft.;  perhaps 
from  'P^l  ^'elin'',  the  hill  of  Veli  or  l>aal),  the  second  in  height  but  most 
impressive  in  form  of  the  Lake  Mts.,  is  very  extensive,  including  all  the 
main  summits  of  the  Lake  District  and  the  lakes  of  Windermere,  Coniston, 
Ksthwaite,  and  Tllswater.  (Thirlmere  is  not  visible  from  the  hiirhest 
point.)  Immediately  at  our  feet,  on  the  K.,  is  the  Red  Tarn  (2356  ft.). 
between  two  spurs  of  Helvellyn.  Catchedicam  on  the  left  and  Striding  Edge 
(2500  ft.)  on  the  right.  The  Solway  Firth  and  the  hills  of  Dumfriesshire 
bound  the  view  to  the  N.,  while  the  sea  is  the  limit  to  the  S.  We  may 
descend  either  to  Grasmere,  Wythburn  (see  p.  391),  Thirhpot  (see  p.  392), 
or  Patterdale  (p.  397).  The  Wythburn  path  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
Grasmere  route  about  10  min.  below  the  top.  —  Grasmere  is  also  the 
starting-point  for  the  easiest  ascent  of  Fairfield  (2863  tt.  -,  lVo-2  hrs.).  We 
turn  to  the  right  near  the  Swan  Hotel  and  ascend  by  a  well-marked  bridle- 
path. Or  we  may  diverge  from  the  Helvellyn  route  near  the  top  of  Grise- 
dale Pass  (see  above)  and  make  straight  for  the  summit. 

Fkoji  Grasmeee  to  Patterdale  (L'llswater)  by  the  Gkisedat.e  Pas.s 
(8  M.,  in  3-4  hrs.;  an  easy  and  delightful  excursion).  From  Grasmere  to 
the  (lV-2-2  hrs.)  head  of  the  Grisedale  Pass  (1930  ft.) ,  see  above.  The 
descent  beyond  the  tarn  is  steep  at  first.  To  the  left  towers  Helvellyn,  to 
the  right  St.  Sunday's  Crag  (2756  ft.).  I'llswater  is  generally  hidden,  (iood 
walkers  may  ascend  to  the  saddle  between  Fairtleld  and  St.  Sunday's 
Crag,  and  follow  the  ridge  all  the  way  to  Patterdale  (fine  views).  Beyond 
a  shed,  reached  V'-2  l^r.  after  leaving  the  tarn,  we  cross  a  small  beck  and 
keep  to  the  left  of  the  main  stream.  In  1/4  hr.  we  pass  through  a  gate 
and  cross  to  the  other  side.  From  (10  min.)  the  farm  of  Elm  How  a 
good  road  leads  to  (IV2  M.)  Patterdale  (see  p.  397). 

From  Grasmere  to  Borrowdale  via  Easedale  (to  Rosthwaite  3-4  hrs. 1. 
We  leave  Grasmere  by  the  Easedale  Tarn  route,  follow  the  road  for  about 
'/n  M.  past  the  slab-bridge  (p.  394),  pass  between  the  two  houses  (as 
on  the  ascent  of  Helm  Crag,  p.  394),  and  then  follow  the  bridle-path  to 
the  left,  which  ascends  Far  Easedale  Gill.  About  1  M.  from  the  point 
where  we  left  the  road  we  cross  the  beck  at  the  Stythwaite  Steps.  The 
track  ceases  about  1  M.  farther  on,  but  we  follow  the  course  of  the  stream, 
and  soon  reach  the  (1  M.)  head  of  the  Easedale  Valley.  Beyond  this  we 
(TOSS  a  depression  (at  the  head  of  the  Wythburn  Valley')  and  ascend  again  in 
the  same  general  direction  to  (1  M.)  Greenup  Edge  (2000  ft.),  the  highest 
part  of  the  route,  between  High  Raise  (2500  ft.)  on  the  left  and  Ullscarf 
(2370  ft.)  on  the  right  (*View).  In  descending  we  keep  to  the  right ,  the 
direction  being  roughly  indicated  by  heaps  of  stones.  Lower  down,  the 
path  reappears  and  descends  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream  (view  of 
Borrowdale).  At  the  hamlet  of  Stonethwaite ,  about  2  M.  below  the  top, 
we  cross  the  stream  by  a  stone  bridge,  and  V-'  M.  farther  ou  join  the 
main  Borrowdale  road,  V-  M.  above  Rosthwaite  (p.  401).  From  Rosthwaite 
to  (6V-'M.)  Keswick.,  see  p.  402.  —  Walkers  may  also  reach  Keswick  from 
Grasmere  via  Dunmail  Raise,  Armhoth  Fell,  and  Watendlatit  (comp.  p.  392). 


396     Route  49.  ULLS WATER.  The  Lake 

From  AVinbermere  to  Patteruale  (Ullswater),  12i  2  ^^-t 
coach  daily  in  21/2  trs.  (fare  65.  6c/.,  return  8s.  6d.).  Circular  tour 
tickets,  available  for  a  week,  are  issued  from  Windermere  to  Kes- 
wick via  Patterdale  (coach,  steamer,  and  train;  fares  16s.  Sd.,  14s. 
3d.,  13s.  6d.).  Our  road  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Amble- 
side, at  a  point  3/^  M.  from  Windermere  station  (p.  381),  and 
ascends  on  the  left  side  of  the  Troutbeck  valley. 

Anotlier  road  leaves  the  Ambleside  road  at  Troutbeck  bridge,  2/4  M. 
farther,  and  ascends  on  tbe  left  side  of  the  beck;  it  is  this  road  that 
passes  through  the  long  and  picturesque  village  of  Troutbeck  and  past  the 
"Mortal  Man  Hold'.     The  two  roads  unite  at  the  N.  end  of  the  village. 

Our  road  soon  quits  the  woods  and  commands  charming  views 
of  Windermere.  From  (3  M.)  Troutbeck  Church  a  road  leads  to  the 
left  to  the  village  of  Troutbeck  (p.  396),  and  1  M.  farther  on 
our  road  unites  with  that  leading  through  Troutbeck  (p.  396). 
We  now  ascend  steeply  along  the  E.  slope  of  WansfelL  (p.  392)  to 
the  top  of  the  Kirkstone  Pass  (1500  ft.),  between  Red  Screes 
(2540  ft.)  on  the  left  and  Caudate  Moor  (2500  ft.)  on  the  right. 
About  200  yds.  below  the  col  we  pass  the  Traveller's  Rest,  a  small 
inn,  which  is  sometimes  wrongly  described  as  the  highest  inhabited 
house  in  England  (comp.  p.  378).  About  as  far  on  the  other  side 
of  the  col,  to  the  left,  is  the  stone  that  gives  name  to  the  pass;  it 
is  supposed  to  look  like  a  'kirk'  from  a  point  about  halfway  down. 
Brothers'  Water  comes  into  sight  in  front,  with  Place  Fell,  rising 
above  Ullswater,  in  the  distance.  2^2  ^1-  Brothers'  Water  Inn. 
^/.2  M.  Brothers  Water  (520  ft.),  1/3  ^^'  square,  said  to  derive  its 
name  from  the  drowning  of  two  brothers.  Below  Brothers'  Water 
the  road  crosses  the  outlet  of  Hayes  Water,  turns  to  the  left,  and 
crosses  (1/2  M.)  the  Qoldrill  Beck.  A\^e  now  descend  through  Patter- 
dale,  passing  the  mouth  of  Deepdale,  between  Fairfield  and  St. 
Sunday's  Crag,  on  the  left,  and  soon  reach  the  village  of  (1^/4  M.)  ■ 
Patterdale  (p.  397).  Vllswater Hotel  (p.  397)  is  about  1  M.  farther  on. 

b.  Ullswater  Section. 

Travellers  who  enter  the  Lake  District  on  the  Ullswater  side 
leave  the  railway  at  Penrith  (p.  382),  whence  several  Coaches  (fare 
2s.)  ply  daily  in  summer  to  (51/2  ^1- ;  1  1^*.)  Pooley  Bridge  (*Sun), 
situated  to  the  S.W.,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake. 

Walkers  may  turn  to  the  S.  at  the  station,  without  entering  the  town, 
and  follow  the  "left  (W.)  bank  of  the  Eamont.  The  route  passes  (3  M.) 
balemain  Hall  and  crosses  Dunmallet  Hill  (view). 

*TJllswater  (477  ft. ;  'Ulf's  water')  is  the  second  in  size  of 
English  lakes,  measuring  71/0  M.  in  length  and  74-^4  M.  in  breadth. 
Its  greatest  depth  is  205  ft.  The  scenery  of  the  lake,  which  some 
prefer  to  that  of  Derwentwater  and  Windermere  ,  increases  in  pic-- 
turesqueness  and  grandeur  as  we  approach  the  head.  No  general 
view  of  the  lake  is  obtainable,  as  its  bendiiigs  divide  it  into  threes 
reaches,   each  of  which  from  some  points  seems  a  complete  lake  in 


District.  PATTERDALE.  49.  Route.    397 

itself.  'J'here  is  a  good  road  along  the  whole  of  the  W.  side  of  the 
lake,  but  on  the  more  precipitous  E.  bank  the  road  stops  at  the  en- 
trance of  Boredale  (see  below).  Boats  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels 
to  tish  in  the  lake;  boat  and  man  5s.  per  day. 

The  small  Steamer  whicli  plies  on  the  lake  (fares  2s.,  U.  6d. ;  return 
3.S.,  2,?.),  taking  1  hr.  to  reach  the  upper  end,  starts  from  a  small  pier,  V^  M. 
from  I'ooley  Bridge.  The  scenery  of  the  lirst  reach,  3  M.  in  length,  is  rather 
tame.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  rises  the  wooded  hill  oi  Dunmallet.  To  the 
right  is  the  Brackenrigg  Hotel,  13/4  jM.  from  Pooley  Bridge.  Uowtown  (p.  898), 
the  only  intermediate  station,  lies  in  a  bay  to  the  left.  Opposite  is  the 
point  i)'i  Skelly  Nuh.  The  middle  reach,  4  M.  long,  extends  to  the  islet  of 
House  Holme.  To  the  left  rise  Hallin  Fell  (1270  ft.)  and  Birk  Fell  (1670  ft.), 
with  Boredale  and  the  hamlet  of  Sandwick  between  them.  To  the  right 
are  Gowbarrow  Fell  (1580  ft.),  the  fmely-wooded  Gowbarrow  Park  (forever 
associated  with  Wordsworth's  'Daffodils"),  and  Lyulph's  Tower  (see  belowj. 
In  front  of  us  rises  the  stately  Helvellyn.  We  now  turn  to  the  left  into 
the  upper  reach,  2  M.  long,  which  contains  a  few  islets.  The  'View  here  is 
very  grand.  To  the  left  Place  Fell  (2154  ft.)  descends  abruptly  into  the  lake ; 
opposite  is  the  wood-clad  Stybarroic  Crag.  At  the  head  of  the  lake  lies 
Paiterdale^  at  the  foot  of  St.  Sunday's  Crag  (2756  ft.)  The  steamboat-pier 
is  near  the  Ullswater  Hotel,  about  V2  M.  from  the  head  of  the  lake. 

Patterdale  (Patterdale  Hotel,  well  spoken  of;  White  Lion,  un- 
pretending; Lodgings)  is  a  small  village,  delightfully  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  valley  of  that  name  and  close  to  the  head  of  Lllswater. 
It  is  a  favourite  centre  for  excursions  in  the  N.E.  part  of  the  Lake 
District.  About  1  M.  to  the  N.,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake,  near 
the  steamboat- pier,  is  the  large  *UUswater  Hotel  (table-d'hote 
As.,  R.  &  A.  43.),  with  pleasant  grounds.  Near  it  is  a  *Temperance 
Hotel.  On  the  hillside  above  the  Ullswater  Hotel  are  the  Greenside 
Lead  Mines,  which  send  a  stream  of  polluted  water  into  the  lake. 

The  favourite  short  excursion  from  Patterdale  is  that  to  Aira  Force 
(4  M.),  which  may  be  made  either  by  land  or  by  water.  In  the  former 
case  we  follow  the  prettily-wooded  road  along  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake, 
passing  (3V2  M.)  the  road  to  Troutbeck  station  (p.  404),  to  the  beck  just 
beyond  it.  We  cross  the  beck  and  ascend  by  the  path  to  the  left  to 
(V'z  M.)  the  fall.  To  the  right  is  Lyulph's  Tower,  a  square  ivy-clad  build- 
ing, the  name  of  which,  like  that  of  the  lake  itself,  is  said  to  commem- 
orate a  Baron  de  LUlf  of  Greystoke.  A  guide  may  be  obtained  here 
(unnecessary).  For  the  water-route,  which  affords  better  views,  small 
boats  may  be  obtained  either  at  the  Patterdale  or  the  Ullswater  Hotel. 
The  fall  of  *Aira  Torce,  70  ft.  high,  is  very  romantically  situated  in  11 
rocky  chasm  with  wooded  sides.  Two  rustic  bridges  cross  the  stream 
above  and  below  the  fall  and  afl'ord  convenient  points  of  view.  The 
scenery  of  the  glen  above  the  fall  is  also  picturesque,  and  another  pretty 
little  fall  is  formed  higher  up.  A  path  leads  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream  through  Gowbarrow  Park  to  (1  M.)  Dockray  (p.  40 '0>  but  the  gates 
are  generally  locked  (comp  p.  404).  —  The  following  is  a  line  round  of 
10-12  M.  (4  hrs.)  from  Patterdale.  We  take  the  lane  leading  to  the  E. 
from  the  church  and  follow  the  track  along  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake. 
(Visitors  at  the  Ullswater  Hotel  may  save  2M.  by  ferrying  across  to 
Bleaicick.)  The  higher  of  the  two  paths  on  the  slope  of  Place  Fell  com- 
mands charming  views  of  dale  and  fell.  After  IV2  M.  the  path  descends 
to  the  shore  and  rejoins  the  lower  path,  and  after  1  M.  more  it  turns  to 
the  right,  away  from  the  lake,  and  leads  round  a  plantation.  At  (131.) 
Sandicick,  a  hamlet  at  the  entrance  to  Martindale  (view  of  High  Street  in 
the  background),  a  road  diverges  to  the  right.  Our  path  leads  straight 
on  through  wood  and  along  the  base  oi  Hallin  Fell  (1270  ft.),  follows  the 
line  of  the  shore,  bends  to  the  right  1  M.  farther  on,  and  after  V2  M,  more 


398    Route  49.  HAWES  WATER.  The  Lake 

joins  the  road  about  1/4  M.  short  oiB-owtovrn  ('Hotel).  From  Howtown  we 
at  first  follow  the  road,  which  ascends  past  the  church  and  the  hamlet  of 
Coivgarth,  to  the  (1  31.)  saddle  between  Hallin  Fell  on  the  right  and  Steel 
Knotts  (1190  ft.)  on  the  left.  It  then  descends,  crosses  a  beck,  and  turns 
to  the  right  towards  Saudwick  (p.  397).  About  200-300  yds.  from  the 
bridge,  however,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  road  leading  through 
Boredale.  The  road  crosses  (3/4  M.)  the  stream,  and  ends  at  the  farm- 
house at  (IM.)  Boredale  Head.  From  this  point  we  ascend  by  a  steep 
bridle-path  to  (IV4  M.)  Boredale  Hause  (1200  ft.;  view).  The  descent  on 
the  other  side  to  (3/4  M.)  Patterdale  is  short  and  steep. 

Fkom;  Patterdale  to  Hawes  Water.  The  easiest  route  is  to  take 
the  steamer  to  Howtown,  the  land- journey  to  which  has  been  described 
above,  and  ascend  thence  (2V2-3  hrs.).  Those  who  wish  to  drive  must 
start  from  Pooley  Bridge  (to  Mardale  Green  15  M.).  At  Howtown  we  pass 
through  a  gate  at  the  back  of  the  hotel  and  ascend  to  the  S.  through  the 
glen  of  Fusedale^  at  lirst  on  the  left  and  then  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
beck.  In  about  V-2  br.  we  bend  to  the  left,  up  the  fell,  and  soon  cross  a 
little  stream  (no  path).  Blencathara  now  appears  in  our  rear  and  Hel- 
vellyn  to  the  right,  while  High  Street  is  visible  to  the  S.  On  reaching 
the'(V2  lir.)  top  of  the  ridge  {Weather  Hill,  2174  ft.)  we  have  a  line 
mountain  view  to  the  S.  and  W.  In  descending  we  bear  to  the  left  and 
cross  the  (2/4  M.)  Measand  Beck  by  a  foot-bridge  we  saw  from  above.  In 
10  min.  more  we  reach  the  road  on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  which  leads 
to  the  W.  (right)  to  (2V4  M.)  Mardale  Green  (see  below).  —  The  direct 
route  from  Patterdale  to  Hawes  Water  leads  by  Kidsty  Pike  (4-5  hrs.).  We 
follow  the  Windermere  road  for  about  2  M.,  and  at  the  point  where  it 
turns  to  the  right,  just  below  Brothers'  Water  (see  p.  396),  we  keep 
straight  on  through  the  hamlet  of  Low  Hartsop.  About  1/2  M.  farther  up 
our  road  (a  cart- track)  crosses  the  Hayes  Water  Beck,  recrossing  it  in  V2  M. 
more,  and  passing  near  the  foot  of  Hayes  Water  (1343  ft.).  We  then  as- 
cend in  zigzags  to  the  (3/4-1  br.)  top  of  the  ridge.  From  this  point  we 
may  diverge  to  the  right  and  ascend  to  the  top  of  High  Street  (2663  ft.), 
which  commands  an  extensive  view.  [The  name  of  High  Street  is  de- 
rived from  an  old  Pi,oman  road  that  ran  near  the  top  of  the  ridge:  some 
traces  of  it  mav  be  discerned  near  the  summit  of  High  Street.]  Kidsty 
Pike  (2560  ft.)  rises  in  front,  to  the  left.  The  direct  route  for  Mardale 
Green  keeps  straight  on  through  a  gate  in  the  wall  at  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
whence  we  have  a  steep  and  somewhat  rough  descent  of  about  1  hr. 

Hawes  Water  (694  ft),  2V2  M.  long  and  1/3  M.  wide,  is  a  solitary 
little  lake,  embosomed  among  lofty  mountains.  Good  quarters  may  be 
obtained  in  the  Dun  Bull  Inn  at  Mardale  Green.,  1  M.  from  the  head  of 
the  lake.  The  lower  end  of  the  lake  is  5V2  M.  from  Shap  (p.  331)  by 
footpath  and  71/2  M.  by  road  via  Bampion.  Good  walkers  may  also  go  on 
to  Wi7idermere  (I2V2  M. ;  41/2-51/2  hrs.)  by  the  ^an  Bield  Pass  (2050  ft.), 
Kenfmere,  and  the  Garbourn  Pass  (1450  ft. ;  line  views  in  descending).  Or 
they  may  ascend  High  Street  (1V2-2  hrs.;  see  above)  and  descend  by  the 
Troutbeck  glen  to   Windermere  (3-3V2  hrs.). 

MooN'TAix  Ascexts  FKOM  Patteedale.  The  ascent  of  Place  Fell  (2154ft.; 
view)  takes  about  I-IV2  hr.  We  ascend  nearly  to  the  top  of  Boredale 
Home  (see  above),  and  then  diverge  to  the  left  and  climb  the  ridge.  The 
descent  may  be  made  to  the  road  through  Boredale  (see  above).  —  To  reach 
the  top  of  St.  Sunday's  Crag  (2756  ft. ;  I1/2  hr.)  we  leave  Patterdale  by 
the  bridle-path  through  Grisedale  (comp.  p.  395),  and  beyond  (IV2  M.)  the 
farm  of  Elm  How  turn  to  the  left  and  ascend  a  zigzag  green  path,  on  the 
right  bank  of  a  beck,  to  the  (1/2  hr.)  top  of  the  ridge,  where  we  turn  to 
the  right  towards  the  (1/2  hr.)  summit.  The  top  commands  a  good  view  of 
Ullswater  and  Helvellyn.  The  descent  may  be  made  along  the  ridge  and 
straight  down  to  Patterdale.  —  Helvellyn  (3118  ft.;  p.  395)  may  be  ascended 
either  via  Glenridding  (3-4  hrs.)  or  by  Red  Tarn  (2-21/2  hrs.),  the  latter 
being  the  shorter  but  steeper  route  (pony  and  guide  125.;  on  the  second 
route  the  ponies  must  be  left  at  the  tarn,  1/2  M.  from  the  top).  By  the 
Glenridding  route  we  leave  the  highroad  opposite  the  Ullswater  Hotel 
and   ascend    the    cart-track    to    (1 1/2   M.)    Greenside   Smelting  Mill.    Here 


District.  KESWICK.  49.  Route.    399 

\vc  avoid  the  track  tu  the  right,  and  folluw  the  bridle-path  in  a  straight 
direction.  Near  Keppelcove  Tarn  (1825  ft.)  the  path  ascends  in  zigzags 
to  the  right,  afterwards  bending  to  the  left,  and  soon  reaching  the  top 
of  the  ridge,  where  we  turn  to  the  left  (path  no  longer  distinct),  and 
reach  the  summit  in  Vz  hr.  more.  Walkers  may  shorten  the  distance 
;i  little  by  ascending  to  the  left  of  Keppelcove  Tarn.  For  the  more 
interesting  Red  Tarn  route  we  follow  the  Grisedale  path  (p.  395)  for 
about  1/2  M.  and  turn  to  the  right,  crossing  the  beck,  at  a  sign-post.  The 
pony-track  from  this  point  to  a  gateway  about  2  M.  farther  is  well  marked, 
and  beyond  the  gateway  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Red  Tarn  (2356  ft.),  the 
highest  sheet  of  water  in  the  Lake  District.  We  keep  to  the  right  of  the 
tarn  and  climb  steeply  to  the  top  of  the  Swirrel  Edge,  along  which  a 
narrow  path  leads  to  the  summit.  Mountaineers  may  diverge  to  the  left  at 
the  gateway  and  ascend  by  SU'iding  Edge.  Descent  tu  Wythbnrn  or  Thirls- 
pot,  see  p.  395-,  to  Grasmere.,  see  p.  395.  —  A  good  and  easy  Mountain  Walk 
(5  hrs.)i  commanding  excellent  views,  is  the  round  by  Hart  Crag  (2TCMJ  ft. ; 
to  the  S.),  Fairfield  (p.  395),  and  St.  Sunday's  Crag  (p.  395). 

From  Patterdale  to  Keswick,  see  p.  4U4  (various  routes-,  for  walkers 
the  best  is  over  Helvellyn  and  down  to  Thirlspot,  5-6  hrs.;  the  easiest  and 
Muickest  route  is  by  Troutbeck);  to  Windermere  (and  Ambleside)  by  the 
Kirkstone  Pass,  see  p.  396-,  to  Grasmere  by  the  Grisedale  Pass,  see  p.  395. 

c.    Keswick  and  Derwentwater  Section. 

Keswick.  —  Hotels.  Keswick  Hotel,  at  the  station,  1/4  M.  from 
the  town,  a  large  establishment  with  200  beds;  -Queen's,  in  the  main 
street,  11.  &  A.  3-4s. ;  Royal  Oak,  at  the  corner  of  the  road  to  the  station: 
-Lake  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  35.  6d. :  King's  Akms;  'George:  Blencathra 
Temperance,  *Skiddaw  Temperance,  unpretending.  —  At  Portinscale,  iV-jM. 
from  the  station:  "Derwentwater  Hotel.  —  Lodgings  iu  abundance. 

Coaches  run  daily  from  Keswick  to  Borrowdale  (Qd.,  return  Is.),  Gras- 
mere (4s.  ;  return  6s.),  Ambleside  (bs..  Is.  Qd.),  Buttermere  (there  and  back 
5s.),  and  Windermere  (6s.  Qd.,  9*.  9<i.)-  No  fees.  —  Hotel  Omnibuses  from 
the  station  to  the  town  6d. 

Boats  on  Derwentwater  is.  per  hour,  5s.  per  day;  with  boatman  2s. 
for  the  first  hr.  and  Is.  Qd.  for  each  addit.  hr. ;  10s.  per  day. 

Fishing.  The  lake  contains  trout,  perch,  pike,  and  eels,  and  some  of 
the  rivers  in  the  neighbourhood  are  good  trout-streams.  Angler's  ticket 
for  the  district  Is.  per  day,  2s.  6(/.  per  month,  5s.  for  the  season. 

Railway  from  Penrith  or  Cockermouth  to  Keswick,  see  p.  3S2. 

Keswick,  a  small  market-town  with  3900  inliab.,  is  situated  011 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Greta,  close  to  Derwentwater  Lake  and  amid  much 
tine  mountain-scenery,  of  which,  however,  scarcely  a  glimpse  is 
seen  from  the  town  itself.  The  interesting  little  Crosthicaite  Church, 
'/2  M.  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Greta, 
at  tlie  lower  end  of  the  main  street,  contains  a  monument  to 
Southey  (inscription  by  Wordsworth).  On  an  eminence  to  the  right, 
on  this  side  the  bridge,  is  Greta  Hall,  the  home  of  Southey  in  1803- 
43.    Shelley  also  lived  at  Keswick  for  a  tiaie  after  his  marriage. 

Near  Greta  Hall  are  two  Lead  Pencil  Manufactories,  to  which  strangers 
are  admitted.  The  process  of  pencil-making  is  interesting;  but  the  fam- 
ous Borrowdale  plumbago  is  now  scarce,  and  the  quality  of  the  pencils 
usually  offered  for  sale  is  not  of  a  high  class.  —  There  is  an  interesting 
Model  of  the  Lake  District  (3  in.  to  the  mile)  in  the  town-hall  (adm.  Qd.), 
and  two  on  a  larger  scale  (6  in.  to  the  mile)  at  Abraham's  and  Maysons, 
on  the  way  to  the  lake  (adm.  Qd.). 

*Deiwentwater  (^238  ft.),  a  lake  3  M.  long,  1  M.  wide,  and  70  ft. 
deep  at  the  deepest  points ,  is  perhaps  the  loveliest  of  the  English 


400     Route  49.  LODORE  FALLS.  The  Lake 

lakes.  Its  compact  form  enables  it  to  be  taken  in  at  one  view.  The 
picturesque  variety  of  the  steep  wooded  crags  and  green  hills  rising 
liora  its  bank,  and  the  grouping  of  its  wooded  islets  are  very  beau- 
tiful. The  best  views  of  the  lake  include  a  fine  mountain-back- 
ground, with  Skiddaw  towering  to  the  N.  and  Borrowdale  opening 
to  the  S.  The  largest  islands  are  Derwent  Isle  (with  a  house  on  it), 
Lord  Isle,  and  St.  Herbert's  Isle;  on  the  last  is  the  ruined  cell  of  a 
hermit  of  the  7th  century.  The  'Floating  Island',  which  appears 
at  intervals  on  the  surface  of  the  lake,  consists  of  a  mass  of  weeds 
made  buoyant  by  the  escape  of  gas  from  decayed  vegetable  matter. 

The  lake  may  be  surveyed  from  several  admirable  points  of  view 
near  Keswick.  Perhaps  the  best  is  "Castle  Head,  or  Casilei,  a  small  wooded 
height  (530  ft.),  V2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Bor- 
rowdale road  (see  below).  We  leave  the  road  by  a  wicket-gate  and  fol- 
low a  winding  path  to  the  summit,  where  we  overlook  the  whole  ex- 
panse of  the  lake.  At  the  S.  end  is  the  line  entrance  to  Borrowdale,  appar- 
ently blocked  by  the  conical  Castle  Crag.  To  the  right  of  Castle  Crag, 
in  the  distance,  are  Great  End  and  the  Scafell  Pikes.  At  the  S.W.  corner 
of  Derwentwater  itself  rises  Maiden  Moor.,  sloping  rapidly  downwards  (to 
the  jST.)  to  Cat  Bells.  Behind  these  we  see  parts  of  Hindscarth  and  Ro- 
binson ,  and  a  little  to  the  right  and  still  farther  back.  High  Stile ,  Red 
Pike,  and  other  fells  enclosing  Buttermere  (p.  402).  To  the  N.  of  the  gap 
beyond  Cat  Bells  rise  Causey  Pike.,  with  its  curious  hump,  and  Grise- 
dale  Pike:,  then  come  the  fells  above  Bassenthwaite  Lake,  which  is  itself 
seen  at  full  length.  To  the  N.  is  Skiddaic.  The  view  to  the  E.  is  limited, 
but  Helvellyn  peeps  over  the  high  ground  in  front.  The  wooded  heights 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  lake  are  Wallow  Crag  and  Falcon  Crag.  —  A 
closer  view  of  the  lake,  resembling  that  from  Castle  Head,  is  ob- 
tained from  the  "Friar's  Crag.,  a  small  rocky  promontory  jutting  into 
the  lake,  about  ^ji  M.  from  the  town.  To  reach  it  we  diverge  to  the 
right  from  the  Borrowdale  road,  opposite  the  Lake  Hotel.  —  What  Southey 
described  as  the  best  general  view  of  Derwentwater  is  obtained  near  Ap- 
plethwaite,  about  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Keswick.  We  cross  the  Greta  by  the 
bridge  mentioned  at  p.  399,  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  railway,  and  take 
the  (3/4  M.)  lane  to  the  right.  Beyond  (V2  M.)  Ormathwaite  the  lane  bends 
round  to  the  left  and  soon  reaches  (V2  M.)  Applethwaite.  The  point  of 
view   praised   by  Southey  is  between  Applethwaite  and   (3/4  M.)  Millbeck. 

Circuit  of  Derwentwater  by  Road  (10 M.  ;  carr.  about  lO.*.). 
This  is  a  charming  walk  or  drive ,  affording  a  series  of  varied  and 
beautiful  views.  The  best  plan  is  to  begin  with  theE.  bank  and  return 
on  the  other  side.  We  leave  Keswick  by  the  street  which  branches 
to  the  right  (S.E.)  behind  the  town-hall,  and  pass  the  Church  of  St. 
John  and  (V2  M.)  Castle  Head  (see  above).  For  the  next  mile  or 
so  the  road  passes  through  the  thickets  at  the  base  of  Wallow  Crag 
(see  above),  which  is  succeeded  by  the  picturesque  Falcon  Crag.  At 
a  point  about  2  M.  from  Keswick  the  road  to  Watendlath  (p,  402) 
diverges  to  the  left.  Just  beyond  this  is  the  lodge  of  Barrow  House, 
where  we  may  apply  for  permission  to  visit  the  Barrow  Falls.  These 
falls,  about  125  ft.  in  total  height,  are  among  the  least  attractive  in 
tlie  district,  but  a  digression  to  them  takes  a  few  minutes  only. 

Almost  immediately  after  leaving  Barrow  we  see  in  front  of  us, 
1  M.  off,  the  *Lodore  Hotel,  with  the  Lodore  Falls  in  the  gorge  to 
the  left.     The  falls  (2d.   for  use  of  hotel-path)  are  romantically 


District.  BORROWBALE.  4U.  Route.     401 

framed  ■with  tall  wooded  crags;  but  as  there  is  usually  more  rock 
than  water,  Southey's  jingling  verses  are  responsible  for  a  good 
deal  of  disappointment.  Those  who  have  time  should  make  their 
way  up  the  beck  to  the  *Hiyh  Lodore,  another  fall  about  ^2  M.  far- 
ther up ,  not  far  from  the  Watendlath  road  (more  easily  reached 
by  a  path  from  the  Borrowdale  Hotel).  About  ^2  ^^-  beyond  the 
Lodore  Hotel  is  the  *Borrowdale  Hotel,  conveniently  situated  for 
excursions  in  Borrowdale.  At  the  (8/4  M.)  village  of  Grange  we 
diverge  to  the  right  from  the  road  through  Borrowdale  (see  below) 
and  cross  the  Derwent.  We  pass  through  the  village,  turn  to  the 
right,  and  ascend  to  (3/^  M.)  the  farm  of  Manesty.  Just  beyond 
this  the  grass-grown  old  road  diverges  to  the  left,  and  as  it  affords 
better  views  than  the  modern  road  the  pedestrian  should  follow  it. 
The  ridge  to  the  left  commands  a  good  view  of  Newlands  (p.  402). 
A  lead-mine  is  passed  on  the  right.  At  the  end  of  the  Cat  Bells 
ridge,  about  I3/4  M.  from  Manesty,  the  two  roads  unite.  About 
1/4  M.  farther  on ,  our  road  is  joined  on  the  left  by  another  road 
descending  from  Skelgill,  and  we  turn  sharply  to  the  right,  passing 
through  a  gate.  Nearly  opposite  this  gate,  to  the  right,  is  a  wicket, 
from  which  a  footpath  leads  through  the  woods  to  Portinscale,  re- 
joining the  road  Y2  M.  before  reaching  the  village.  After  1/2  ^I-> 
at  a  finger-post,  our  road  unites  with  that  coming  from  Buttermere 
(comp.  p.  403).  11/4  M.  Portinscale  (*Derwentwater  Hotel,  see 
p.  399  ;  Lodgings)  is  a  small  village ,  pleasantly  situated  near  the 
lake.  Portinscale  is  IY4  M.  from  Keswick  by  road,  but  1/2  ^^-  is 
saved  by  a  path  diverging  to  the  right  beyond  the  bridge. 

*From  Keswick  to  Buttermere  sy  Borrowdale  and  Honister 
Hause,  returning  by  Newlands,  a  round  of  22  M.  Public  con- 
veyances make  this  round  daily  (fare  6s.,  driver  Is.),  starting 
about  10  a.m.,  allowing  time  to  visit  the  principal  objects  of  inter- 
est on  the  way,  and  for  luncheon  at  Buttermere,  and  reaching  Kes- 
wick again  about  6  p.m.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  drive  in  the 
kingdom  and  should  on  no  account  be  omitted.  —  The  route  as 
far  as  (4V4  M.)  the  entrance  of  Borrowdale  has  been  described 
above.  Instead  of  crossing  the  bridge  at  Grange  we  go  straight 
on,  and  soon  reach  a  (1/2  M.)  slate-quarry,  where  a  road  diverging 
to  the  left  ascends  to  (5  min.)  the  Bou'der  Stone.  This  is  a  huge 
mass  of  rock,  estimated  to  weigh  about  2000  tons,  which  has  fallen 
from  the  neighbouring  crags  and  settled  in  a  wonderfully-balanced 
poise.  The  top  of  the  stone  (reached  by  a  ladder;  fee  to  cottager) 
affords  an  admirable  view  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  *Borrowdale, 
with  the  richly -tinted  rocks  at  its  entrance,  the  wooded  Castle 
Crag  opposite,  and  Glaramara  (2360  ft. ;  due  S.)  and  other  sum- 
mits forming  its  wider  environment.  Beyond  the  Bowder  Stone 
the  lane  descends  again  to  the  highroad ,  which  brings  us  to  the 
(IV4  M.)  village  of  Eosthwaite  {*Scafell  Hotel,  *Royal  Oak,  un- 
pretending), prettily  situated  in  the  middle  of  the  valley. 

Baedeker  s  Great  Britain.    4lh  Edit.  26 


402     Route  49.  BUTTERMERE.  The  Lake 

Walkers  to  Rosthwaite  should  vary  their  return  to  Keswick  by  following 
the  bridle-track  to  (2  M.)  the  hamlet  and  tarn  of  Watendlath.  The  road 
thence  to  (5  M.)  Keswick  joins  the  above-described  road  near  the  Barrow 
Falls  (comp.  p.  400).  This  is  an  easy  route,  commanding  extiuisite  views. 
—   Routes  over  the  Stake  Pass   and  Sit/  Head  Pass,   see  pp.  403,404. 

Beyond  Rostliwaite  the  road  to  the  Stake  diverges  to  the  left 
near  the  (Y2  M-)  Church;  and  the  path  to  the  Sty  Head  Pass  diverges 
on  the  same  side  3/^  M.  farther  on,  near  Seatoller,  a  hamlet  with 
some  lodging-houses.  At  SeatoUer  begins  the  steep  and  rough  ascent 
to  the  (IV2  M.)  Honister  Hause  (1190  ft.).  At  the  top  of  the  pass 
we  come  in  sight  of  the  striking  *  Honister  Crag  (1750  ft.) ,  which 
rises  almost  perpendicularly  to  the  left.  Its  face  is  seamed  with 
slate -quarries.  The  descent  on  the  other  side  is  very  steep 
at  first.  Buttermere  and  Crummock  Water  come  into  view  as  we 
descend.  The  fells  rising  ahove  them  (named  from  left  to  right) 
are  High  Crag,  High  Stile,  Red  Pike,  Mellbreak,  and  Robinson. 
At  the  foot  of  the  pass  is  the  (21/2  M.)  farm-house  of  Gatesgarth, 
whence  "we  see  the  Scarf  Gap  Pass^  ascending  to  the  left  of  High 
Crag.  Beyond  Gatesgarth  we  skirt  the  N.  bank  of  Buttermere,  pass- 
ing the  mansion  of  Hasness,  and  reacli  (7  M.)  the  village  of  Butter- 
mere (Victoria;  Buttermere;  Fish),  where  the  coach  stops  for  3  hrs. 

Buttermere  (330  ft.),  V/t  M.  long,  Vs  M.  wide,  and  94  ft.  deep,  is  con- 
nected by  a  short  stream  with  '■  Crummock  Water  (320  ft.) ,  ^/a  M.  to 
the  K.W.,  which  is  23/4  M.  long,  V3-V4  M.  wide,  and  144  ft.  deep.  The 
interval  allowed  by  the  coach  is  generally  occupied  with  luncheon  and 
a  visit  to  'Scale  Force.  This  waterfall,  125  ft.  in  height,  one  of  the 
linest  in  Lakeland,  is  in  a  glen  on  the  S.  side  of  Crummock  Water.  It 
may  be  reached  by  a  footpath  (about  2  M. ;  often  wetj,  crossing  the  stream 
belween  the  lakes,  but  the  usual  route  is  to  go  by  boat  to  the  mouth  of 
the  glen  (fare  Is.  each,  there  and  back)  and  walk  thence  to  (3/4  M.)  the 
force.  —  From  Scale  Force  good  walkers  may  cross  the  fells  to  the  W. 
to  (13/4  M.)  Floutern  Tarn  (1250  ft.  \  pronounced  'Flootern')  and  the  (2V4  M.) 
Angler's  Inn,  at  the  foot  of  Ennei-dale  Water  (370  ft.).  From  Ennerdale 
Water  they  may  ascend  Upper  Ennerdale,  or  the  Valley  of  the  Liza,  and  at 
the  head  of  it  follov/  either  the  Scarf  Gap  Pass  to  Buttermere  on  the  left,  or 
the  Black  Sail  Pass  to  Wasdale  Head  on  the  right  (p.  406).  Or  they  may 
proceed  direct  to  Wasdale  Head  over  the  Pillar  ur  the  Steeple  (comp.  p.  406). 

Red  Pike  (2480  ft.),  though  not  the  highest  peak  in  the  neighbourhood, 
commands  the  best  view.  The  ascent  may  be  combined  with  a  visit 
to  Scale  Force  (2-3  hrs.),  but  the  shortest  route  (IV4-I3/4  hr.)  is  by  the 
Ruddy  Beck,  the  stream  flowing  into  the  S.W.  angle  of  Crummock  Water. 
The  descent  may  be  made  by  Bleaberry  Tarn  and  Sour  Milk  Oill,  the  stream 
descending  to  Buttermere.  The  characteristic  feature  of  the  view  is  the 
large  number  of  lakes  and  tarns.  The  large  lake  to  the  W.  is  Ennerdale 
Water  (370  ft.),  21/2  M.  long  and  Vs-^/s  M.  broad.  To  the  N.W.  of  Crum- 
mock Water  is  the  lakelet  called  Lowes  Water.  —  From  Buttermere  to 
Wasdale  Head  vid  Scarf  Gap  d-  Black  Sail  Passes  (3-4  hrs.),  see  pp.  405,  406. 

The  road  to  the  N. ,  skirting  the  bank  of  Crummock  Water,  leads 
to  (10  M.)  Cockermouth  (p.  382).  Our  road  leads  to  the  E.  from 
the  village  of  Buttermere,  and  ascends  to  the  top  of  (IV4  ^O  -Buf- 
termere  Hause  (1100  ft.),  between  Robinson  (2417  ft.)  on  the  right 
and  V^liiteless  Pike  (2160  ft.)  on  the  left.  It  then  traverses  the 
upland  valley  of  Keskadale  and  descends  through  the  somewhat 
uninteresting  valley  oi 'Newlands.     ^^jt^^l.  Newlanda  Hotel;  1  M. 


District.  STAKP:  PASS.  49.  Route.    403 

Stair ;  1/2  ^^«  Swinside  (Inn).     About  1/4  M.  farther  on  we  join  the 
road  round  Derwentwater,   at  the  finger-post  mentioned  at  p.  401. 

Another  route  from  Keswick  to  (14  M.)  Huttermere  leads  by  the 
Whixlattek  Pass.  The  road  leads  to  the  W.  from  (IV4  M.)  Portinscale 
(p.  401)  to  (IV2  M.)  Braithwaite  (lun),  beyond  which  the  a?cent  to  the 
top  of  the  (2  M.)  Whinlatter  Pass  (104U  ft.;  Jnn)  begins.  About  IV4  31. 
farther  on  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  road  to  Cockermouth  (p.  382) 
and  proceed,  past  (2  M.)  Swinside,  to  (3  M.)  the  Scale  Hill  Hotel,  1/2  M. 
from  the  foot  of  Crummock  Water  (p.  402).  For  walkers  the  distance 
hence  to  Buttermere  village,  by  the  road  skirting  the  E.  bank  of  Crum- 
mock Water,  is  about  31/2  M.  From  the  Scale  Hill  Hotel  we  may  go  on  by 
Ldioes   Water  to  Lamplugh   or   to   (11  M.)   Ennerdale  Water  (Angler's  luu). 

A  Ane  route  from  Keswick  to  Buttermere,  with  splendid  views,  is 
aftorded  by  the  'Mountain  Walk  (6-7  hrs.)  over  Cat  Bells  (p.  401),  Maiden 
Moor,  Dale  Head,  and  Robinson  (p.  402). 

From  Keswick  to  Thiklmere  by  the  Druids'  Circle  and 
Vale  of  St.  John  (71/2  M.)  We  leave  Keswick  by  the  Penrith 
road,  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  road  to  the  station,  and  cross 
tlie  railway  twice,  first  passing  under  it  and  then  over  it.  We  then 
take  the  second  turning  to  the  right,  and  after  about  Y2  ^f-  (1  ^^• 
from  Keswick)  pass  a  lane  on  the  right,  just  beyond  which  is  a 
stile  leading  into  the  field  with  the  Druidical  Stones.  Of  these 
there  are  about  forty,  arranged  in  an  irregular  circle;  the  largest 
are  about  7^2  ft-  l^igli-  '^^^  old  Penrith  road  joins  the  new 
one  Y2  ^1-  beyond  the  Druid  Circle,  just  before  it  crosses  the  Naddle 
Beck.  About  1/3  M.  farther  on,  our  road  diverges  to  the  right  from 
the  Penrith  road  ,  crosses  (1  M.)  Wanthwaite  Bridge  ,  and  reaches 
the  main  road  through  the  pretty  Vale  of  St.  John,  ascending  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  St.  John's  Beck.  To  the  left  are  the  Wanthwaite 
Crags.  At  the  head  of  the  vale  rises  the  Castle  Rock  (p.  392"). 
Thirlspot  (p.  392)  is  41/2  M.  from  the  bridge.  Thirlmere,  see  p.  391. 
—  Public  conveyances  make  the  round  of  Thirlmere  (20  M.)  by  this 
route. 

From  Kbswick  to  Dungeon  Gill  by  th^  Stake  Pass  (4^/2-5  hrs. ; 
pony  and  guide  from  Rosthwaite  I63.).  Driving  is  practicable  as 
far  as  (672  M.)  Rosthwaite,  see  p.  401.  Near  the  church,  1/2  M.  beyond 
Rosthwaite,  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  Buttermere  road  and 
proceed  to  (1/3  M.)  Stonethwaite,  both  before  and  after  which  we 
may  take  several  short-cuts  through  the  fields  (to  the  left  of  the 
road).  About  ^/^  M.  beyond  Stonethwaite  we  turn  to  the  right, 
cross  the  Langstrath  Beck  (^4  M.)  by  a  foot-bridge,  and  ascend 
by  a  rough  path  on  its  right  bank.  After  crossing  a  tributary, 
2  M.  farther  on,  we  leave  the  Langstrath  Beck,  the  valley  of 
which  here  bends  to  the  right,  and  ascend  in  zigzags,  in  the 
direction  we  have  hitherto  been  following,  to  (3  4  M.)  the  top  of 
the  Stake  Pass  (1576  ft.)  ,  between  Stickle  Pike  (p.  393)  on  the 
left  and  Rossett  Crag  on  the  right.  We  now  cross  a  bleak  upland 
plateau  for  about  1  M.,  and  then  descend,  along  the  right  side  of 
the  beck  flowing  through  Mickleden,  to  (2^2  ^1-)  ^^^  Dungeon 
QUI  Hotel  (see  p.  393).     To  Ambleside,  see  p.  393. 

26* 


404     Route  49.  STICKS  PASS.  The  Lake 

From  Kes-syick  to  Patterdale  by  the  Sticks  Pass,  11  M. 
(driving  practicable  for  5  M.).  We  follow  the  Ambleside  road  (see 
pp.  390,  39i)  for  about  5  M.,  to  the  point  where  it  is  joined  by 
the  road  through  the  Vale  of  St.  John  (p.  403).  We  follow  the 
latter  for  a  few  yards,  and  then  diverge  to  the  right  through  a  gate. 
The  track  passes  the  farm  of  Stanah  ,  crosses  a  beck  a  little  way 
beyond  it.  and  ascends  to  the  left  in  zigzags.  The  top  of  the  Sticks 
Pass  (2450  ft.),  marked  by  sticks  inserted  in  the  ground,  forms 
part  of  the  ridge  of  Helvellyn.  Good  retrospect  of  Skiddaw,  the 
Buttermere  fells,  Scafell,  etc.  In  front,  Ullswater  now  comes  into 
sight.  In  descending  we  pass  the  Greenside  Reservoir  and  Lead 
Mine,  and  join  the  Glenridding  ascent  of  Helvellyn  at  the  Green- 
side  Smelting  Mill.  Hence  to  Patterdale,  see  p.  398. 

Good  walkers  in  fine  weather  will  do  better  to  go  from  Keswick  to 
Patterdale  via  the  top  of  Helvellyn  (3-4  hrs.  from  Thirlspot) ,  for  which 
sufficient  directions  will  be  found  at  pp.  395,  398,  while  others  may  prefer 
the  approach  via  Troutbeck  (see  below). 

Fbom  Keswick  to  Patterdale  via  Troutbeck,  I6V2  M. ,  by  railway 
and  coach  (through-tickets  4s.  2d.,Ss.  6d.,  8s.  2d.;  return  6s.  3d.,  5s.  3d.). 
Those  who  wish  to  drive  the  whole  way  must  take  this  route.  —  Railway 
from  Keswick  to  (9  M.)  Troutbeck  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Troutbeck 
near  Windermere),  see  p.  382.  The  first  part  of  the  route  from  Troutbeck 
to  Ullswater  is  dreary.  The  road  leads  due  S.  fntm  the  station,  and 
ascends  to  its  culminating  point  (ca.  1100  ft.),  to  the  W.  (right)  of  the 
rounded  Mell  Fell  (1760  ft.).  We  then  descend  to  (23/4  M.  from  Troutbeck) 
Matterdale  End.,  at  the  church  of  which.  84  M.  beyond  the  village,  a  road 
to  the  left  leads  to  Greysioke.  At  Q-i-i  M.)  Dockray  (Royal  Hotel,  plain), 
where  the  scenery  improves,  our  road  is  joined  on  the  right  by  a  cart- 
track  crossing  the  fells  from  Wanthwaite  (see  p.  403).  [Walkers  should 
leave  the  road  here  and  descend  on  the  other  side  of  the  beck,  through 
Gowbarrow  Park.  This  is  a  private  path  ,  but  a  guide  with  keys  to  open 
the  gates  may  be  obtained  at  the  inn.  We  pass  through  the  farm-yard 
opposite  the  inn,  and  then  follow  a  path  skirting  the  slope  of  Gowbarrow 
Fell.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream.  We  pass  a  picturesque  old  mill, 
the  pretty  little  High  Force  ,  and  a  quaint  little  gully ,  and  finally  reach 
Aira  Force  (see  p.  397).     From  Aira  Force  to  Patterdale.  see  p.  397.] 

From  Dockray  we  descend  between  Gowbarrow  Fell  and  Park  on  the 
left  and  the  finely-wooded  Glencoin  on  the  right,  and  soon  obtain  a  fine 
*View  of  the  head  of  Ullswater.,  with  Place  Fell,  St.  Sunday's  Crag,  etc. 
We  reach  the  bank  of  the  lake  I1/2  M.  beyond  Dockray.  Thence  to  (2  M.) 
Ullswater  Hotel  and  (1  M.)  Patterdale,  seep.  39". 

From  Keswick  to  Wasdale  Head  by  the  Sty  Head  Pass, 
14  M.  (5-6  hrs.).  Driving  is  practicable  to  (9  M.)  Seathwaite,  and 
ponies  can  go  the  whole  way  (pony  and  guide  from  Eosthwaite  15s.). 
From  Keswick  to  (Tt/oM.)  Seatoller,  see  pp.  401,  402.  Just  before 
SeatoUer  we  pass  through  a  gate  to  the  left  and  follow  a  lane,  which 
skirts  the  Derwent,  first  on  the  left  and  then  on  the  right  bank. 

By  diverging  to  the  right,  before  crossing  the  (3/4  M.)  bridge,  we  may 
visit  Wordsworth's  'fraternal  four  of  Borrowdale'  (a  group  of  yews),  and 
follow  the  path  on  the  same  side,  past  the  Plumbago  Mine,  to  Seathwaite. 

About^/^M.  beyond  the  bridge  we  reach  the  lia.mlet  of  Seathwaite, 
said  to  be  the  rainiest  place  in  England ,  the  annual  rain-fall 
averaging  150  inches.  The  Plumbago  Mine ,  which  formerly  pro- 
duced admirable  lead  for  pencils  (comp.  p.   399) ,    is  exhausted. 


District.  BLACK  SAIL  PASS-  49.  Route.     405 

At  Seathwaite  the  cart-track  ceases,  and  we  follow  the  path  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream.  At  the  head  of  the  valley  Great 
End  (see  below)  raises  its  perpendicular  front;  to  the  left  rises 
Glaramara  (2560  ft.),  and  to  the  right  Base  Brown  (2120  ft.). 
At  (i  M.)  Stockley  Bridge  we  cross  the  Derwent,  pass  through  a 
gate,  and  ascend  to  the  W.  towards  Taylors  Gill  Force.  After 
passing  the  fall  we  bend  to  the  left,  following  the  course  of  the 
beck,  cross  the  stream,  and  reach  the  solitary  (1 1/4  M.)  Sty  Head 
Tarn  (1430  ft.)  ,  situated  amidst  scenery  of  the  wildest  descrip- 
tion. To  the  right  are  Green  Gable  and  Great  Gaftic  (2950  ft.) ; 
in  front  Lingmell  (2649  ft.),  Great  End  (2984  ft.),  and  Sea  fell 
Pike  (3210  ft.).  A  few  yards  beyond  the  tarn  the  track  leading 
past  Sprinkling  Tarn  (1960  ft.)  and  over  Esk  Hause  (2370  ft.) 
to  Dungeon  Gill  diverges  to  the  left  (comp.  p.  394).  Our  path 
goes  straight  on,  and  very  soon  reaches  the  top  of  the  Sty  Head 
Pass  (1600  ft.),  where  the  green  valley  of  Wasdale  comes  in  sight 
below  us.  "Wast  Water  is  concealed  by  Lingmell.  The  descent  is 
very  steep  and  stony.  (Those  who  have  time  and  strength  to  spare 
may  diverge  to  the  left,  visit  Greta  Fall  and  the  romantic  gorge  of 
Piers  Gill,  and  rejoin  the  regular  track  at  the  foot  of  the  pass.) 
From  (1^/4  M.)  Burnthwaite  Farm  a  cart-track  leads  to  the  church, 
and  a  fleld-path  to  the  right  to  (1/2  M.)  Wastwater  Hotel  (p.  407). 
Fkom  Keswick  (ok  Buttermere)  to  Wasdalb  Head  by  Scarf 
Gap  and  Black  Sail  Passes  (road  to  Gatesgarth;  bridle-patli 
thence  2^/2-^^/2  hrs.).  Pony  and  guide  from  Buttermere  about  15'!. 
From  Keswick  to  Gatesgarth,  either  via  Honister  Hause  or  via  New- 
lands,  see  p.  402.  At  Gatesgarth  our  route  diverges  to  the  S.  from 
the  road,  passes  through  a  gate,  crosses  (Y4  M.)  a  foot-bridge  over 
a  beck,  and  begins  to  ascend.  In  about  ^/o  hr.  we  reach  the  top  of 
Scarf  Gap  (1400  ft.),  between  High  Crag  (2443  ft.)  on  the  right  and 
Haystacks  (1750  ft.)  on  the  left.  Fine  retrospect  of  Buttermere. 
In  front  rises  Kirkfell  (2630  ft.),  with  Great  Gable  (see  above) 
to  its  left  and  the  Pillar  to  the  right.  On  the  slope  of  the  latter 
rises  the  lofty  Pillar  Rock,  the  ascent  of  which  is  dangerous  ex- 
cept for  very  expert  cragsmen.  We  now  descend  into  the  lonely 
upper  part  oi  Ennerdale,  through  which  flows  the  Liza.  On  reach- 
ing the  (1/4  hr.)  floor  of  the  valley,  the  path  ascends  along  the 
right  bank  of  the  stream  for  about  1/2  ^^-i  ^^^  t^en  crosses  it  by 
a  small  foot-bridge  (sign-posts).  It  then  ascends  again,  skirting  a 
small  mountain-torrent,  to  (V2  hr.)  *Black  Sail  Pass  (1750  ft.),  the 
depression  between  Kirkfell  on  the  left  and  the  Pillar  on  the  right. 
[A  mistake  is  sometimes  made  here,  as  the  traveller  is  apt  to  be- 
lieve that  the  Black  Sail  Pass  must  lead  through  the  more  inviting 
depression  to  the  left  of  Kirkfell,  between  it  and  Great  Gable.  We 
must,  therefore,  take  care  to  keep  to  the  right  of  Kirkfell.]  The 
scenery  here  is  very  wild  and  sombre.  Looking  back,  we  sec  (from 
right  to  left)  Great  Gable,  Green  Gable,  Brandreth,  Haystacks,  and 


406     Route  49.  SKIDDAW.  The  Lake 

High  Crag,  with.  Fleetwith  Pike  rising  hehind  Haystacks,  and 
Robinson  and  Grasmoor  in  the  distance.  In  front  lies  Mosedale, 
with  Red  Pike  (2630  ft. ;  not  to  he  confounded  with  the  Red  Pike 
at  Buttermere)  to  the  right  and  Ewebarrow  (2058  ft.)  to  the  left. 
In  descending  we  hear  to  the  left  and  obtain  a  sudden  *View  of  Sea- 
fell  (p.  407).  The  fell  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Pillar  is  called  the  Steeple 
(2746  ft).    Wasdale  Head  and  Wast  Water,  see  p.  407. 

These  two  routes  may  be  combined  in  one  day's  excursion  from  Keswick 
by  an  early  start.  The  walking  may  be  reduced  to  4-6  lirs.  by  driving  to 
Seathwaite  and  ordering  the  carriage  to  wait  at  Gatesgarth*,  or  the  trav- 
eller may  hire  a  pony  (see  above)  and  avoid  walking  altogether.  —  Those 
who  wish  to  go  from  Keswick  to  Wast  Water  without  the  fatigue  of 
crossing  any  of  the  passes  mav  drive  xi^Braithwaife,  Whinlatter  Pass,  Scale 
Hill  Hotel  (p.  402),  Lamplugh,  Egremont,  and  Colder  Bridge,  to  (34  M.)  Strands 
(p.  407),  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  lake,  6  M.  from  Wasdale  Head. 

Mountain  Ascents  from  Keswick.  —  Skiddaw  (3058  ft.),  the  fourth 
highest  summit  in  the  Lake  District,  is  probably  the  easiest  mountain  of  its 
size  to  ascend  in  England  (up  and  down  4-6  hrs.).  Ponies  (6s.)  can  go  all 
the  way  to  the  top  •,  guide,  unnecessary,  6s.  We  pass  below  the  railway, 
either  at  the  station  (subway,  closed  on  Sun.)  or  a  little  to  the  E.  of  it, 
turn  to  the  left,  and  then  take  the  (V*  M.)  second  turning  to  the  left 
{Spoony  Green  Lane;  numerous  guide-posts).  This  lane  skirts  the  slope  of 
Latrigg  (1203  ft.;  a  spur  oi  Skiddaw),  the  top  of  which  is  easily  reached 
in  about  1/2  br.  (by  a  railed-in  path)  and  commands  a  charming  view.  The 
lane  turns  to  the  right  round  the  N.  side  of  Latrigg  and  passes  through  a 
(IV4  M.)  gate  into  a  road  coming  from  Applethwaite.  About  50  yds. 
farther  on,  this  road  ends  at  another  gate,  through  which  we  pass  on 
to  the  open  fell.  We  then  ascend  to  the  left  along  a  wall ,  through 
which  we  pass  by  a  gate  near  a  (^4  M.)  refreshment  -  hut.  The  ascent 
hence  to  (V2  M.)  another  refreshment -hut  is  the  steepest  part  of  the 
climb  (fine  retrospects).  Beyond  the  second  hut  the  track  bends  slightly  to 
the  left  and  soon  becomes  almost  level.  It  keeps  a  little  to  the  right  of  the 
top  of  the  Low  Man  (2837  ft.),  the  S.  buttress  of  the  summit-ridge,  which 
commands  a  better,  because  nearer,  view  of  Lakeland  than  the  'High  Man\ 
The  distance  hence  to  the  top  is  about  1  M.  The  view  to  the  S.  includes 
a  great  part  of  the  Lake  District,  but  the  fells  are  too  distant  to  be  seen 
to  advantage.  The  Coniston  Old  Man  is  visible  in  the  distance,  and  Helvellyn 
is  conspicuous  to  the  S.E.  Immediately  to  the  E.,  between  Skiddaw  and 
Blencathara,  is  the  wild  moorland  tract  called  Skiddaw  Forest.  On  the 
N.  the  view  extends  to  the  Solway  Firth  and  the  mountains  of  Kirkcud- 
bright and  Dumfries.  To  the  W.  is  the  sea.  —  The  descent  is  usually  made 
by  the  same  route,  but  those  who  wish  variety  may  descend  by  the  N.W. 
side  to  High  Side,  5^/2  M.  from  Keswick  and  4  M.  from  Bassenthwaite 
Lake  Station  (p.  382).  Another  descent  leads  by  the  Carl  Side  (2400  ft.) 
to  Millbeck  (p.  400).  —  The  ascent  of  Blencathara  or  Saddleback  (2847  ft.), 
with  its  fine  'Sharp  Edge",  is  in  many  respects  preferable  to  that  of  Skid- 
daw, though  it  is  less  easily  accessible.  The  direct  ascent  and  descent 
from  the  village  of  (31/2  M.)  Threlkeld  (see  p.  382)  take  3V2-4  hrs. ,  but 
perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  ascend  by  Scales  Fell  and  follow  the  ridge 
of  the  mountain  from  E.  to  W.  (a  round  from  Threlkeld  of  4-5  hrs; 
■Views).  —  The  top  of  Helvellyn  (3118  ft.)  may  be  reached  from  Keswick 
either  via  (51/2  M.)  Thirlspot  (p.  392)  or  by  (8  M.)  Wythhurn  (p.  391).  The 
actual  ascent  takes  in  the  first  case  13/4-21/4  hrs.,  in  the  second  IV4-I3/4  hr. 
(pony  and  guide  10s.).  At  Thirlspot  the  pony-track,  which  can  scarcely 
be  missed,  begins  near  the  King's  Head  Inn  and  leads  at  first  in  a  N.E. 
direction.  Just  before  reaching  Fisher  Gill  it  turns  to  the  right  and  ascends 
straight  towards  the  summit.  In  about  IV2  hr.  we  reach  the  summit-ridge, 
where  the  pony  track  from  Glenridding  (p.  398)  joins  ours  on  the  left. 
In  1/4  br.  more  we  surmount  the  '■Low  Man'  (3033  ft.),  which  is  about 
10  min.  from   the  '■High  Man  ,    or   summit.     The  Wythburn  ascent  is  the 


District.  WAST  WATER.  49.  Route.     407 

shortest  and  steepest.  The  bridle-path,  also  easily  traced,  leaves  the  road 
opposite  the  inn  and  ascends  along  the  right  bank  of  a  small  beck. 
Farther  up,  it  bends  to  the  left,  and  about  V2  M.  from  the  top  it  unites 
with  the  route  from  Grasmere  (p.  394).  View,  see  p.  .39i;  descent  to 
Patterdale,  see  p.  39S.  —  Among  the  smaller  hills  near  Keswick,  Latrigg 
(see  above),  Swinside  (803  ft.;  near  Portinscale),  and  Cat  Bells  (1482  ft.; 
p.  401)  are  the  best  points  of  view.  The  ascents  of  High  Seat  (1996  ft.; 
from  the  Watendlath  road)  and  Glaramara  (2560  ft.;  from  Rosthwaite) 
are  more  fatiguing.  —  Active  walkers  will  lind  the  ascent  of  Great  Gable 
(2950  ft.)  one  of  the  most  repaying  in  the  district.  The  view  from  the  top 
is  very  line,  including  Wast  Water,  Scafell  and  Scafell  Pikes,  Skiddaw, 
and  Helvellyn.  The  ascent  may  be  made  either  from  the  Sty  Head  Pass 
(p.  405;  3/4-I  hr.)  or  from  the  Ilonister  Pass  (p.  402;  2-3  hrs.)  via  Grey  Knotts 
(2287  ft.),  Brandreth  (2344  ft.),  and  Green  Gable  (2474  ft.).  The  descent 
may  be  made  by  Sty  Head  to  Wasdale  Head  (see  below). 

Among  other  excursions  from  Keswick  may  be  mentioned  the  'Walk 
to  (5  M.)  Watendlath  (p.  402;  charming  views),  returning  via  (2  M.)  Ros- 
thwaite and  Bovvowdale  (in  all  13V2  M.).  —  The  easy  way  to  visit  Bassen- 
thwaite  Lake  (226  ft.)  is  to  take  the  train  to  (71/2  M.)  Bassenthwaite  Lake 
station  (p.  382)  and  hire  a  boat  at  the  Pheasant  Inn.  The  scenery  of  the 
lake,  which  is  4  M.  long  and  3/4  M.  broad,  is  rather  tame. 

From  Keswick  to  Thirlmere,  Grasmere,  Amblfside,  and  Windermere  by 
coach,  see  p.  390;  to  Grasmere  via  Watendlath,  see  p.  392. 

d.  Wast  Water  and  Scafell  Section. 

*Wast  Water  ('204  ft.)  ,  3  M.  long  and  1/2  M-  wide ,  is  tlic 
deepest  lake  in  the  district,  attaining  a  maiimum  depth  of  258  ft. 
The  scenery  around  it  is  wild  and  imposing.  The  head  of  the  lake 
is  enclosed  by  finely  grouped  mountains,  including  Scafell,  Limj- 
mell,  Great  Gable,  Kirk  Fell,  and  Ewebarrow .  On  the  S.E.  side  of  the 
lake  the  imposing  cliffs  of  the  Screes  ,  culminating  in  lllgill  Head 
(1980  ft.),  rise  sheer  from  the  water's  edge.  The  hank  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  lake  is  richly  wooded. 

Wasdale  Head  (Wastwater  Hotel;  Row  Head  and  Burnthwaite 
Lodging  Houses,  moderate)  is  a  deep  and  romantic  hollow,  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  mountains,  about  1  M.  from  the  lake.  Ponies  and 
guides  may  be  obtained  here  for  numerous  excursions,  including 
the  ascent  of  Scafell  Pike  (see  below).  —  As  the  lake  is  not  seen  to 
advantage  here,  the  traveller  should  visit  its  lower  end,  in  order 
to  enjoy  the  view  of  the  grand  mountain-amphitheatre  at  its  head. 

The  best  plan  is,  perhaps,  to  hire  a  boat,  and  go  all  the  way  by  water 
(Is.  per  hr.;  with  boatman  25.  6rf.  per  hr.;  to  the  foot  of  the"  lake  and 
back  5*.).  There  is  a  road  along  the  W.  bank,  and  even  the  most  hurried 
travellers  should  drive  as  far  as  Bowderdale,  1  M.  from  the  head  of  the 
lake.  Those  who  do  not  mind  a  little  rough  walking  may  make  the  round 
of  the  lake  on  foot,  following  the  ridge  (not  the  l>ase')  of  the  Scree.s. 
There  are  two  small  inns  at  Strands  (p.  408),  a  small  village  1  Sr.  from 
the  S.  end  of  the  lake. 

The  K,  side  of  the  Wasdale  valley  is  bounded  by  the  huge 
Scafell  or  Scawfell  Group,  including  its  four  principal  summits : 
Scafell  Pike  (3210  ft.),  Scafell  (3162  ft.),  (ireat  End  (2984  ft.), 
and  Lingmell  (2649  ft.).  The  first  of  these  is  the  highest  mountain 
in  England,  though  surpassed  by  several  peaks  in  Scotland  and 
Wales,  and  is  best  ascended  from  Wasdale  Head.     Unlike  that  of 


408     Route  i9.  SEASCALE. 

8kiddaw,  the  ascent  offers  some  genuine  climbing;  and  though  the 
ordinary  routes  are  free  from  danger  in  good  weather,  it  is  better  in 
doubtful  weather  not  to  attempt  the  ascent  alone  (pony  and  guide 
155.).    Ponies  go  to  within  30  min.  of  the  top. 

Ascent  of  Scafell  Pike,  2-2V2  lirs.  The  ordinary  and  easiest  route 
from  Wasdale  Head  ascends  along  the  S.  side  of  Lingmell  QUI,  which  we 
reach  by  descending  Wasdale  for  about  1  M.  (to  a  point  near  Wast 
Water)  and  then  turning  to  the  left.  We  follow  up  the  course  of  the 
stream  for  about  Vz  br. ,  and  where  it  forks  go  straight  up  the  green 
space  between  the  arms.  About  10  min.  higher  up,  on  more  level  ground, 
we  bend  to  the  left  towards  lAngmell^  but  turn  again  to  the  right,  near 
a  wall.  The  last  part  of  the  route  is  marked  by  cairns.  Throughout 
this  ascent  Scafell,  to  the  right,  is  more  prominent  than  Scafell  Pike. 
—  A  finer  but  steeper  route  leads  via  Lingmell  Beck  and  Piers  Gill.  We 
proceed  towards  the  X.  to  (V2  M.)  Burnthioaite,  and  then  to  the  N.E.  through 
the  valley  between  Great  Gable  and  Lingmell,  with  Lingmell  Beck  to  the 
right.  After  about  10  min.  the  pony-track  to  the  Sty  Head  Pass  (p.  405) 
diverges  to  the  left,  and  in  I/4  hr.  more  we  turn  sharply  to  the  right  and 
ascend  to  the  left  of  Piers  Gill.  The  path  joins  the  one  above  described 
in  the  hollow  between  Lingmell  and  Scafell  Pike.  (The  pony-track  goes 
on  to  Esk  Haute  and  then  turns  to  the  right.)  —  Scafell  is  also  ascended 
from  Dungeon  Gill  (p.  394  :3-4  hrs. ;  route  marked  by  cairns),  {TomRosthwaite 
(p.  401;  3-4  hrs.;  cairns;  pony  and  guide  155.),  and  from  Boot  (p.  384; 
3-4  hrs.;  guides,  John  and  James  Porter,  Eskdale  Green).  —  The  ^Vieic 
from  the  top  is  extensive  and  wild.  It  includes  Skiddaw  to  the  N.,  Hel- 
vellyn  to  the  N.E. ,  High  Street  to  the  E. ,  a  bit  of  Windermere  and 
Ingleborough  (p.  412;  in  the  distance)  to  the  S.E.,  the  Coniston  Hills  to 
the  S.,  and  the  Isle  of  Man  and  the  sea  to  the  S.W.  and  W.  The  view 
from  Great  End,  the  N.E.  limb  of  the  Scafell  group,  easily  reached  from 
the  top  of  Scafell  Pike  in  3/4  hr.,  is  still  liner.  The  top  of  Scafell,  to 
the  S.,  is  somewhat  less  easy  of  approach,  and  the  view  it  commands 
does  not  differ  enough  from  that  above  described  to  repay  the  trouble. 

From  Strands  (see  p.  407)  roads  lead  westward  to  the  railway- 
stations  of  (7  M.)  Drigg  (Victoria  Inn)  and  (8  M.)  Seascale  (^Scaw- 
fell  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  3-4s.,  B.  2s.  6d.,  D.  3s.),  that  to  the  latter  pass- 
ing Gos forth,  with  an  early  Cross,  14  ft.  high.  Coaches  run  from 
Seascale  to  Wasdale  Head  (48.)  and  to  Ennerdale  (4s.).  —  Boot 
(see  p.  384)  is  reached  from  Wasdale  Head  by  a  pony-track  (6  M.) 
leading  past  Burnmoor  Tarn  (230  ft.),  between  Scafell  on  the  left 
and  IllgilL  Head  (1980  ft.)  on  the  right.  In  Stanley  Gill,  about 
1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Boot,  is  *Dalegartli  Force  (60  ft.  high),  which 
is,  perhaps ,  the  finest  waterfall  in  the  Lake  District.  The  key  to 
the  fall  is  kept  at  Dalegarth  Hall,  a  quaint  old  farmhouse  near  the 
foot.  From  Boot  we  may  go  on  by  the  Hardknott  Pass  (Koman  Camp, 
see  p.  390)  and  the  Wrynose  Pass  to  Ambleside  (comp.  p.  394). 

From  Wasdale  Head  to  Keswick  by  the  Stp  Head  Pass  or  the  Black 
Sail  Pass,  see  pp.  405,  406. 

50.  From  London  to  Sheffield,  Leeds,  and  Carlisle. 

308  M.  Midland  Railway  in  7-10  hrs.  (fares  405.  Qd.,  2is.  21/2^.)-  —  For 
the  sections  composing  the  L.N.W.  Haute  from  London  to  Carlisle  (299  M., 
in  71/4-9  hrs.;  fares  405.  6d.,  SOs.  id.,  24s.  2VW.),  see  RE.  37,  45a,  47. 

From  London  (St.  Pancras)  to  (120  M.)  Trent  Junction,  see  K. 
45  b.  —  The  line  follows  the  valley  of  the  Erewash,  now  disfigured 


CHESTERFIELD.  50.  Route.     409 

with  iron-works.  1'26  M.  Ilkeston,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Derby 
{jp.  357)  and  to  Nottingham  and  Kettering  (see  p.  361).  Beyond 
(130  M.)  Langley  Mill,  to  the  left,  are  the  ruins  of  Codnor  Castle. 

146  M.  CkesteT&eld  (Angel ;  Station),  a  busy  manufacturing 
town  with  13,250  inhabitants.  The  curious  twist  of  the  spire  of 
the  Parish  Church  (14- 15th  cent.)  is  probably  due  to  the  warping 
of  the  wood-work  below  the  leaden  casing  ;  local  legend  ascribes  it 
to  the  devil.    George  Stephenson  (d.  1848)  is  buried  in  Trinity  Church. 

About  7  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Chesterfield  is  Hardwick  Hall  {*Inn  at  the 
entrance  to  the  park),  a  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire ,  an  extensive 
Elizabethan  mansion,  with  numerous  windows,  erected  in  1590-97  by  'Bess 
of  Hardwick',  the  building  countess  of  Shrewsbury  (p.  358),  who  was 
born  here  in  a  house  which  her  own  superseded.  Mary,  tjueen  of  Scots,  is 
said  to  have  spent  part  of  her  captivity  here.  The  Picture  Gallery  contains 
interesting  portraits.  —  Bolsover  Castle,  6  M.  to  the  E.,  was  begun  by  'Bess 
of  Hardwick'.     The  old  church  of  Bolsover  was  burned  down  in  1896. 

Chesterfield  may  also  be  made  the  starting-point  of  a  visit  to  the 
Peak  (R.  46);  it  is  11-13  M.  from  Haddon  and  Chatsworth. 

From  Chesterfield  a  line  runs  to  Lincoln  (p.  434)  via  Bolsover,  Edtcin- 
siowe,  and  Tuxford. 

Beyond  Chesterfield  the  loop-line  by  which  the  Scottish  day- 
express  trains  run  diverges  to  the  right,  rejoining  our  line  at  Mas- 
boxough.  —  1531/2  ^i-  Dore  <Sr  Totley,  junction  of  the  Dore  &  Chin- 
ley  line  (p.  367).  154  M.  ^eauc/iie/ (p.  367).  —  I58V2M.  Sheffield 
(Kail  Rfmt.  Rooms),  see  p.  366. 

163  m.  Masborough  (Prince  of  Wales)  forms  part  of  Rotherham 
(Crown;  Ship),  a  smoky  iron -working  town  to  the  right,  with 
42,000  inhabitants.     *  All  Saints'  Church  is  a  good  Perp.   edifice. 

From  (167  M.)  Swinton  branch -lines  diverge  to  Doncaster 
(p.  412)  and  to  Pontefract  and  York  (p.  413).  At  (176  M.)  Cud- 
worth  the  Hull  and  Barnsley  Railway  (p.  433)  diverges.  —  181  M. 
Sandal J^  Walton  is  the  junction  for  (3  M.)  Wakefield  (*Bull; 
Strafford  Arms;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  the  capital  of  the  West 
Riding  of  Yorkshire,  with  33,000  inhab.,  a  brisk  trade  in  grain,  wool, 
and  rattle,  and  numerous  mills  and  manufactories.  The  handsome 
*Parish  Church  (14-15th  cent.)  has  been  carefully  restored  and  is 
now  the  cathedral  of  the  bishopric  of  Wakefield,  established  in  1888. 
The  Chantry  on  the  bridge  over  the  Calder  (14th  cent.)  has  been 
entirely  rebuilt.  —  From  (185  M.)  Normanton  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
lines  radiate  to  York,  Goole,  Dewsbury,  etc. 

196  M.  Leeds.  —Hotels.  'Queens,  at  the  Midland  Station.  R.&  A. 
5s.,  B.  2s.  Gd.;  'Great  Nokthern  Station;  Griffin,  commercial;  Bull 
&.  Mouth;  Treveltan  Temperance.  —  Potcolny's  Restaurant;  Refreshment 
Rooms  at  the  stations. 

Railway  Stations.  Wellington  (Midland  Railway),  New  Station  (L.  N.  W. 
&  N.  E.  R.),  and  Central  Station  (.G.  N.  R.  and  L.  &  R.)  are  situated  be.side 
each  other  in  the  S.W.  of  the  town. 

Theatre,  iirand  Theatre  A  Opera  House,  Laud's  Lane.  —  Coliseum  Con- 
cert Hall. 

United  States  Consul,  ^'orfect  Harris.  L's>[..  11  Bank  St. 

Leeds,  the  great  centre  of  the  clotli-iudustry,  the  first  city  in 
Yorkshire,   and  the  fifth  in  England,  with  about  390,000  inhab. 


410     Route  50.  LEEDS.  From  London 

(1896).  is  situated  on  the  Aire.  It  offers  little  to  detain  the  tourist, 
except  a  visit  to  some  of  its  hnge  factories  (introduction  necessary). 
The  chief  streets  are  the  Briggate,  "with  the  finest  shops,  New  Brig- 
gate,  Boar  Lane,  Bond  St.,  Park  Roxo  (with  many  handsome  modern 
buildings),  and  Wellington  Street.  Tvith  the  largest  warehouses. 

The  Town  Hall,  in  Park  Lane,  a  large  and  amhitious  structure 
in  the  Palladian  style  ,  with  a  Corinthian  colonnade ,  contains  a 
statue  of  Queen  Anne  presented  to  the  town  in  1712  (organ-recitals 
in  the  great  hall  twi(^e  weekly).  In  front  of  it  is  a  Statue  of 
Wellington,  by  Marochetti.  The  Museum  (adm.  Id.)  of  the  Philo- 
sophical Society,  in  Park  Row ,  contains  antiquarian  ,  zoological, 
and  geological  collections.  The  new  Post  Office,  the  Municipal 
Offices  with  an  Art  Gallery  and  Library,  the  Exchange,  the  Coli- 
seum, the  Yorkshire  Penny  Bank,  the  Infirmary,  the  Mechanics'  In- 
stitute,  and  the  Unitarian  Chapel  (Park  Row)  are  also  among  the 
most  prominent  buildings.  Most  of  the  large  Factories  are  near  the 
river.  At  the  Red  House,  in  Guildford  St.,  Charles  I.  was  confined 
for  a  few  days  while  being  led  captive  to  London.  The  Yorkshire 
College,  at  Beech  Grove,  is  a  member  of  Victoria  University  (p.  343). 

The  church  of  St.  John's,  at  the  top  of  Briggate,  consecrated  in 
1634,  is  the  oldest  in  Leeds.  Its  *Interior,  with  the  original  oaken 
fittings,  is  interesting;  the  great  screen  is  one  of  the  finest  Renais- 
sance works  of  the  kind  in  England.  St.  Peter  s  (of  which  Dean 
Hook  was  vicar)  contains  some  15th  cent,  brasses  and  an  ancient 
Saxon  Cross.  Mill  Hill  Chapel,  of  which  Dr.  Priestley  (p.  261)  was 
minister  for  seven  years,  was  founded  in  1672  and  rebuilt  in  1849. 

The  principal  lungs  of  the  town  are  Woodhouse  Moor,  to  the 
N.,  and  *Roundhay  Park  (775  acres),  to  the  N.E. ,  the  latter  with 
two  lakes  and  a  manor-house,  now  used  as  a  hotel  and  restaurant. 

About  31/2  M.  to  the  X.W.  of  Leeds,  in  the  valley  of  the  Aire,  reached 
either  by  tramway  or  railway  (see  p.  411),  are  the  ruins  of  Kirkstall 
Ahbey  (adm.  free,  9  a.m.  till  dusk),  second  to  Fountains  (p.  431)  alone  among 
Yorkshire  abbeys  in  extent  and  preservation.  The  surroundings,  however, 
are  now  spoiled  by  iron-works.  The  abbey,  a  Cistercian  house,  was  founded 
in  the  12th  cent.,  and  most  of  the  remains  are  in  the  late-Xorman  style. 
The  tower  is  Perp.  The  abbey  now  belongs  to  the  town  of  Leeds.  —  Excur- 
sions may  also  be  made  to  (41/2  M.)  Temple  Newsam,  the  birthplace  of  Lord 
Darnley:  Bolton  Alley  (p.  411);  &nA  Eareicood  Castle  (-p.  429).  There  is  an 
interesting,  partly  Norman  church  at  Adel.  5  M.  to  the  N.N.W.  of  Leeds. 
The  'Shire  Oak"  at  (2  M.)  Headingley  is  29  ft.  in  girth. 

From  Leeds  to  Ilklet,  Bolton-  Abbey,  asd  Skiptox,  25  M.,  railway 
in  lV2-l^/4  hr. ;  to  Otley  (11  M.,  in  1/2-I  lir-)-  —  The  line  diverges  from 
the  main  line  beyond  Calverley  (p.  411).  —  At  (9  M.)  Menston  Junction  a 
line  diverges  to  the  right  to  C^  ^L)  Otley  (White  Horse),  a  small  town  with 
68C)0  inhab.  and  a  partly  Norman  church.  About  IV2  M.  to  the  X.  is 
Farnley  Hall  (adm.  on  Wed.  &  Thurs.  on  written  application),  containing 
the  sword  and  hat  worn  by  Cromwell  at  Marston  Moor,  and  other  relics  of 
the  Civil  War.  —  12  M.  Ben  Rhydding,  with  a  large  and  much-frequented 
Hydropathic  Establishment,  in  a  line,  breezy  situation.  —  13  M.  Ilkley 
(Crescent;  -Middleton;  Royal),  a  popular  watering-place,  with  numerous 
hydropathic  establishments,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Wharfe.  There 
arc  three  curious  Saxon   crosses  in  the   churchyard.     I'leasant  walks  may 


to  Carlisle.  BRADFORD.  50.  Route.     411 

be  taken  amid  the  heather-clad  hills  of  the  neighbourhood.  Otley  and  Ilkley 
may  also  be  reached  from  Leeds  by  the  N.  E.  R.  via  Holbeck  and  Arthington. 

—  is  M.  Bolton  Abbey  Station  (Devonshire  Arms,  1/2  M.  from  the  abbey).  — 
*Bolton  Abbey,  an  Augustine  foundation  of  the  12th  cent.,  is  situated  amid 
trees  on  the  Whar/e.  The  chief  part  of  the  picturesque  but  not  very  ex- 
tensive ruins  is  the  Chrnxh,  the  E.E.  and  Dec.  nave  of  which  has  been  re- 
stored and  is  used  for  service.  The  Perp.  W.  front  vras  added  by  Prior 
Moon  in  16'20.  At  the  end  of  the  single  aisle  is  the  Mauleverer  Chantry, 
in  the  vault  beli.w  which  the  SFaulevercrs  and  Claphams  are  said  to  have 
been  interred  in  an  upright  posture,  a  tradition  referred  to  by  Wordsworth 
in  the  'White  Doe  of  Eylstone'.  [Rylstone  lies  about  14  M.  to  the  X.E.] 
To  the  W.  of  the  Abbey  is  Bolton  //all,  a  modern  residence  of  the  Duke 
of  Devonshire,  incorporating  the  ancient  gateway  that  figures  in  Landseer's 
well-known  picture.  The  woods  are  open  to  visitors.  On  the  Wharfe, 
13/4  M.  above  Bolton  Abbey,  is  the  narrow  rapid  called  the  Strid,  the  story  of 
which  is  told  in  Wordsworth's  'Force  of  Prayer'.  —  25M.  Skipton,  see  below. 

From  Leeds  to  Bradford  and  Halifax,  17V2  M.,  railway  in  V2-V4  ^^^ 

—  9  M.  Bradford  (Midland;  Great  Northern;  Alexandra;  Talbot;  Rail. 
Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  headquarters  of  the  worsted  manufacture,  is  a  bustling 
town  with  216,500  inhabitants.  U.  S.  Consul,  E.  S.  Day,  Esq.  The  value 
of  Bradford  goods  declared  at  the  consulate  for  export  to  the  United 
States  in  1895  was  nearly  600,000?.  Bradford  contains  a  Technical  College, 
the  United  Yorkshire  Independent  College  ,  formed  in  1888  by  the  union  of 
colleges  at  Rotherham  and  Airedale,  statues  of  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Sir  Titus 
Salt,  and  the  Eon.  W.  E.  Forsfer,  M.P..  and  has  five  public  parks.  The  fa- 
cade of  the  imposing  ToicnHall  is  embellished  with  statues  of  English  sover- 
eigns from  the  Conquest  downwards;  and  the  Exchange  contains  a  statue 
(if  Richard  Cobden.  —  17V2  M.  Halifax  (White  Swan;  Old  Cock;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  with  83,000  inhab.,  is  another  important  centre  of  the  woollen  cloth 
and  cotton  industry,  with  a  handsome  town-hall  and  a  Perp.  church.  — 
From  Halifax  the  line  goes  on  to  Kochdale,  Bolton,  etc.  (comp.  p.  345). 

From  Leeds  to  Selbt,  21  M.,  railway  in  '/4-IV4  hr.  (fares  2*.  lOd.,  is. 
Syzd.).     93/4  M.  Micklejield.  —  Selby,  see  p.  413. 

From  Leeds  to  York,  25V2  M.,  railway  in  3/4-I  hr.  (fares  3«.  6d.,  Is. 
iy2d.).  This  line  diverges  to  the  left  from  that  to  Selhy  at  Micklefield 
and  runs  towards  the  K.E.  —  25'/2  M.   York,  see  p.  413. 

From  Leeds  to  Harrogate,  Ripon,  and   Thirsk,  see  R.  54. 

Just  beyond  (199  M.)  Kirkstall  we  have  a  view,  to  the  riglit,  of 
Kirkstall  Abbey  (p.  410).  —  Beyond  Calverley  diverges  the  line  to 
Otley  and  Ilkley  (see  p.  410).  Beyond  (2031/2  M.)  Apperley  the  train 
crosses  the  Aire  and  passes  through  a  long  tunnel.  At  (207  M.) 
Shipley  we  cross  the  line  from  Bradford  (see  above)  to  Ilkley  (p.  410). 

—  208  M.  Saltaire.,  a  woollen  and  worsted-making  town,  named  from 
Its  founder  Sir  Titus  Salt  (d.  1876)  and  the  river  Aire.  The  factory  of 
the  Salt  family  (chiefly  for  alpaca)  adjoins  the  line  on  the  right. 

213  M.  Keighley  (Devonshire  Arms),  pron.  'Keethley',  a  manu- 
facturing town  with  30,800  inhabitants. 

From  Keighlev  a  branch-line  diverges  by  the  Worth  Valley  to  (4  M.) 
Haworth  (Black  Bull),  the  home  of  the  Brontes.  The  Church  was  rebuilt 
in  1880,  only  the  old  tower  being  left.  A  brass  on  the  floor,  near  the 
chancel-screen,  marks  the  burial-vault  of  the  Bronte  family.  The  Par- 
sonage, also  enlarged  and  otherwise  altered  since  Charlotte  (1816-55),  Emily 
(1818-48),  and  Anne  (1820-49)  Bronte  lived  in  it.  is  shown  only  to  visitors 
with  an  introduction.  An  interesting  Bronte  M'isenm  was  opened  here  in 
1895.  —  The  line  goes  on  to   Oxenhopc. 

222M.  Skipton  (Midland ;  Devonshire  Arms ;  Rail. Rfmt.  Rooms), 
the  capital  of  the  picturesque  Craven  District,  with   10,400  inhab. 


412     Route  50.  INGLETON. 

and  a  late-Perp.  church,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Bolton  Abbey 
and  Ilkley  (see  p.  411)  and  to  Burnley  and  Accrington.  Skipton 
Castle  (14-1 6th  cent.)  was  the  seat  of  the  Cliffords. 

Near  (229  M.)  Bell  Busk,  where  we  leave  the  Aire,  are  *Oor- 
dale  Scar,  a  huge  wall  of  cliflfs  (300  ft.),  and  Malham  Cove,  a  fine 
rocky  amphitheatre,  nearly  285  ft.  high.  —  From  (232  M.)  Hellifield 
a  line  runs  to  the  S.  to  Clitheroe  and  Preston  (p.  380). 

Near  (237  M.)  Settle  (Ashfield's ;  Lion)  a  line  diverges  on  the 
W.  to  Carnforth  and  Morecambe  Bay  (p.  381). 

At  (TV*  M.)  Clapham  (Inn),  on  tlie  line  to  Carnforth,  diverges  a  line 
running  l^.W.  to  (iV*  M.)  Ingleton,  (12  M.)  Kirkby  Lonsdale,  and  (24  M.) 
Sedbergh,  joining  the  main  L.iS\W.  line  at  Low  Oill  Junction  (p.  381).  — 
Ingleton  {Ingleborough  Hotel;  Wheatsheaf),  near  the  S.W.  base  of  Ingle- 
borough  (2375  ft. ;  see  below) ,  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  the 
picturesque  caves  and  waterfalls  in  the  vicinity. 

Fine  view  down  Dent  Dale,  to  the  left,  heyond  Settle.  "We  ascend 
the  valley  of  the  Ribble,  with  Ingleborough  (see  above)  and  Whern- 
side  (2415  ft.)  to  the  left  and  Pen-y-Ohent  (2270  ft.)  to  the  right. 
The  country  now  becomes  very  bleak.  Beyond  (2471/2  M.)  Ribblehead 
we  cross  Batty  Moss  by  a  viaduct ,  1330  ft.  long  and  165  ft.  high, 
and  traverse  the  Blea  Moor  Tunnel,  IV2  M.  long.  At  (250  M.)  Dent 
we  reach  the  highest  point  of  the  line  (1145  ft.).  After  passing 
(257  M.)  Hawes  Junction,  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  Eawes  and 
Northallerton  (p.  417),  we  soon  enter  the  green  valley  of  the  Eden, 
in  Westmorland.  Before  entering  Birkett  Tunnel  (1/4  M.)  we  see, 
to  the  right,  Pendragon  Castle ,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Pen- 
dragon,  father  of  King  Arthur,  and  beyond  it,  on  the  same  side,  is 
Lammas  Castle.  267  M.  Kirkby  Stephen  (comp.  p.  418).  —  278  M. 
Appleby  (King's  Head),  on  the  Eden,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to 
Penrith  (p.  382).    Appleby  Castle,  to  the  left,  was  rebuilt  in  1686. 

—  The  blue  hills  of  the  Lake  District  now  bound  the  view  on  the 
W.  Beyond  New  Biggin  we  enter  Cumberland,  and  beyond  Cul- 
garth  traverse  a  tunnel  (1/3  M.).  —  308  M.  Carlisle,  see  p.  382. 

51.  From  London  to  York,  Durham,  Newcastle,  and 
Berwick. 

335V2  M.  Gkeat  Northern  and  North  Eastern  Railways  in  7-9  hrs. 
(47s.,  285.  2y-2d.);  to  (188  M.)  York  in3V3-4V-,!  hrs.  (27s.,  15s.  Sd.);  to  (256  M.) 
Dnrham  in  51/2-73/4  hrs.  (35.5.  lOrf.,  2l5.  2d.);  to  (268V2  M.)  Miccaslle  in  53/4- 
71/2  hrs.  (38s.  3d.,  22s.  l^-id.). 

From  London  (King's  Cross)  to  (138  M.)  Retford,  see  R.  45c. 

—  146  M.  Scrooby.  The  Manor  House  was  formerly  a  palace  of  the 
archbishops  of  York.  William  Brewster  (1560-1644),  a  ruling  elder 
of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  was  born  here.  Austerpeld,  II/2  M.  N.E.  of 
(148  M.)  Bawtry,  was  the  birthplace  of  William  Bradford  (1588- 
1657),  second  governor  of  the  colony  of  Plymouth  in  America.  — 
156  M.  Doncaster  (Angel;  Reindeer;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  prosper- 
ous agricultural  town  on  the  Don,  with  26,000  inhab.,  the  works  of 


SELBY.  51.  Route.     413 

the  G.N. R.,  and  a  handsome  modern  Dec.  church  by  Sir  G.  G. 
Scott,  the  tower  of  which  is  seen  to  the  right  of  the  railway.  The 
St.  Leger  (established  in  1778)  is  run  here  in  September. 

Lines  run  hence  to  Sheffield,  l^Fancbester  and  Liverpool,  Wakefield  and 
Leeds,  Pontefract  and  York,  Goole  and  Hull,  and  Gainsborough  and 
Lincoln.  —  Conishorough  Castle^  5  M.  to  the  S.W.,  is  described  in  'Ivanhoe\ 

1741/2  M.  Selhy  (LondeshorougJt.  Arms;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)^  a 
small  agricultural  town  with  6000  inhab.,  on  the  Ouse,  is  the  tra- 
ditional birthplace  of  Henry  I.  Near  the  station  is  the  Benedictine 
*Ahhey  Church  (p.  xxxix),  one  of  the  finest  monastic  churches  in 
England,  though  lacking  the  S.  transept  (recently  restored). 

The  church  (306  ft.  long)  was  originally  erected  in  the  12th  cent., 
and  part  of  the  nave  and  transepts  is  in  the  Xorman  style.  The  E.  part 
of  the  nave  and  the  upper  part  of  the  W.  front  are  E.E. ;  the  choir  and 
lady-chapel  are  Dec;  and  some  of  the  windows  Perp.  Among  the  points 
of  special  interest  in  the  interior  are  the  coloured  ceiling  of  the  nave; 
the  slender  detached  columns  reaching  from  the  arches  to  the  roof  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  nave:  the  tombs  of  the  abbots  in  the  lady  chapel; 
some  curious  figures  in  the  N.  transept;  and  the  grand  E.  window. 

The  handsome  Roman  Catholic  Church  and  the  Church  of  St.  James 
may  also  be  visited. 

From  Selby  branch-lines  run  to  Hull  (a  continuation  of  the  line  from 
Leeds,  p.  411)  and  to  Market  Weighton  (p.  432).  The  former  line  passes 
(7  M.)  Bowden  (Bowman's),  with  the  fine  -Church  of  St.  Cuthbert  (E.E., 
Dec,  &  Perp.),  formerly  belonging  to  the  bishops  of  Durham  (comp.  p.  liv). 

Near  (185  M.)  Naburn,  York  Minster  appears  on  the  right. 

188  M.  York.  —  Hotels.  'Station,  a  large  and  well-equipped  house, 
with  a  fine  view  of  the  city  from  the  cofl'ee-room,  R.  &  A.  is.  Qd.,  table 
d'hote  B.  2s.  6c?.,  D.  5s,  (rooms  near  the  electric  bell  boards  should  be 
avoided).  ^Marker's  York,  in  a  central  situation ;  Black  Swan,  R.  &  A.  3.<. 
Gd.,  well  spoken  of ;  Scawin's;  North  Eastern,  R.  &  A.  4.<.,  well  spoken 
of;  Thomas''s:  Clarence,  plain;  Citt,  Minster,  unpretending  temperance 
hotels.  —  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms. 

York,  the  Eboracum  of  the  Romans,  situated  on  the  Ouse,  is 
now  a  quiet  provincial  town  with  67,000  inhab.  and  few  signs  of 
industry  or  recent  growth.  The  ancient  walls  are  still  standing  and 
enclose  the  greater  part  of  the  city.  Many  of  the  streets  are  crooked 
and  narrow,  and  there  are  not  a  few  quaint  old  houses  with  over- 
hanging npper  stories.  York  is  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  who 
bears  the  title  of  Primate  of  England  (comp.  p.  26).  His  province 
embraces  the  dioceses  of  Durham,  Chester,  Carlisle,  Newcastle, 
Ripon,  Sodor  and  Man.  Liverpool,  Manchester,  and  Southwell. 

York,  originally  the  British  Caer  Evrauc,  comes  into  prominence 
about  the  middle  of  the  second  cent,  of  the  Christian  era,  as  the  Roman 
Eboracum^  the  chief  station  in  the  province  of  Britain,  the  headquarters 
of  the  6th  Legion,  and  the  frequent  residence  of  the  emperors.  Severus 
died  and  was  buried  at  York  in  311,  and  Constantine  the  Great  was 
proclaimed  emperor  here  in  306,  though  the  tradition  that  he  was  born 
at  York  is  unfounded.  York  retained  its  importance  in  the  Saxon  period, 
and  was  the  centre  from  which  Christianity  spread  through  northern  Eng- 
land. It  also  became  an  important  Danish  colony.  William  the  Conqueror 
built  two  castles  here  (see  p.  416);  and  the  name  of  York  is  connected 
with  many  other  monarchs  and  innumerable  important  events  in  English 
history.  The  title  of  Duke  of  York  is  now  borne  by  the  sole  .surviving  son 
of  the  Prince  of  Wales. 


414     Route  51.  YORK.  From  London 

Quitting  the  spacious  Railway  Station  we  proceed  to  the  left, 
passing  Leemans  Statue,  and  cross  the  Lendal  Bridge  (toll  V2'^- ; 
view),  just  beyond  which,  to  the  right,  is  the  Yorkshire  Club.  To 
the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Philosophical  Society's  Gardens 
(adm.  Is.,  or  by  a  member's  introduction),  which  contain  a  Museum 
(Roman  antiquities,  etc.)  and  some  interesting  ruins. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance  are  the  remains  oi  St.  Leonard's  Hospital, 
originally  founded  in  the  Saxon  era  and  rebuilt  by  King  Stephen  (1137). 
Beyond  it  is  the  so-called  Multangular  Tower,  the  lower  part  of  which  is 
Rdiuan.  Nearer  the  N.  side  of  the  gardens  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of 
St.  Mary's  Abbey,  which  are  mainly  of  early-Dec.  date,  with  some  Nor- 
m;in  features.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  Gardens  (entr.  from  St.  Leonards  Place) 
is  the  picturesque  ivy-clad  Manor  House,  built  by  Henry  VIII.,  now  a 
School  for  the  Blind  (concert  on  Thurs.,  at  '2.30p.m.;  adm.  Qd.). 

Following  the  street  in  a  straight  direction  we  soon  reach  — 
*York  Minster,  one  of  the  largest  and  grandest  cathedrals  in 
England  (525  ft.  long,  100  ft.  high,  110  ft.  wide  across  the  nave, 
222  ft.  across  the  transepts).  The  earliest  church  on  this  site  was 
a  small  wooden  one,  hastily  built  for  the  baptism  of  King  Edwin  by 
Paulinus  (627),  the  first  Archbishop  of  Yorli,  and  soon  replaced  by 
a  stone  basilica,  which  was  burned  down  in  the  8th  century.  A 
tbird  church  was  burned  down  in  1069  by  William  the  Conqueror, 
and  a  fourth  was  built  in  its  place  by  the  first  Norman  bishop.  The 
choir  was  rebuilt  by  Archbishop  Roger  (1154-81);  the  S.  transept 
by  Archbishop  Gray  in  1215-55,  and  the  N.  transept  about  the  same 
time;  while  the  Norman  nave  was  gradually  replaced  by  the  present 
one  between  1290  and  1345.  The  Lady  Chapel  and  presbytery  were 
added  in  1360-73,  and  the  present  choir  was  substituted  for  Archbp. 
Roger's  before  1400.  The  towers  date  from  the  15th  cent.,  and 
the  edifice  as  thus  rebuilt  was  reconsecrated  in  1472.  In  its 
present  form,  therefore,  the  part  of  the  minster  above  ground 
shows  examples  of  the  E.  E.,  Dec,  and  early  and  late  Perp.  styles. 
The  most  striking  features  of  the  exterior  are  the  noble  *  W. 
Facade  (Dec.;  towers,  201ft.  high,  Perp.),  the  E.E.  Transepts, 
the  imposing  Central  Tower  (216  ft.  ;  Perp.),  the  external  triforium 
of  the  Presbytery,  the  Chapter  House  (Dec),  with  its  flying  buttresses, 
and  the  great  E.  Window  (Perp.).  Tbe  numerous  fantastic  gargoyles 
are  also  conspicuous.  The  best  general  view  is  obtained  from  the 
city-walls  (see  p.  416).  Tbe  daily  services  are  at  10  a.m.  and 
4.30  p.  m.  Adm.  to  the  choir,  chapter-house,  and  crypt  6rf.;  to 
the  tower,  Qd.  We  enter  by  the  door  in  the  S.  transept  (fine  view 
across  transepts). 

Interior.  The  =-Nave,  according  to  Rickman,  is  the  finest  example 
of  the  Dec.  style  in  England,  from  the  grandeur  and  perspicuity  of  its 
de.sign;  'ornament  is  nowhere  spared,  yet  there  is  a  simplicity  which  is 
peculiarly  pleasing'.  The  triforium  does  not  form  a  distinct  division,  but 
appears  part  of  the  clerestory  design.  The  roof  is  of  timber,  restored 
after  a  fire  in  1840,  and  painted  to  resemble  stone.  In  original  stained 
glass  York  Minster  excels  all  other  English  cathedrals ,  and  this  adds 
ereatly  to  the  richness  of  the  interior.  The  oldest  is  the  'Jesse  Window'  in 
the   clerestory  of  the  N.  side  (2nd  from  the  W.  end) ,   dating  from  about 


to  Berwick.  YORK.  61.  Route.     415 

12U0;  that  of  the  beautiful  \V.  *Window,  with  its  graceful  llowing  tracery, 
is  also  very  fine  (13c38).     The  aisles  are  unusually  wide  (30  ft.)- 

The  Tkansei'ts,  in  a  pure  E.E.  style,  with  clustered  piers  and  pointed 
arcades,  are.  the  oldest  part  of  the  existing  structure  (see  p.  414).  The  live 
beautiful  lancet- windows  (53Vj  It.  x5  ft.)  iti  the  N.  transept  are  known  as  the 
'Five  Sisters'  and  still  retain  their  ori'^inal  glazing.  In  this  transept  are 
the  monuments  of  Abp.  Greenfield  (13()6-15)  and  Thomas  Hcuey  (d.  1824; 
with  a  cadaver).  In  the  S.  transept  is  a  good  marigold  window,  tilled 
with  poor  modern  glass.  The  monument  of  Abp.  Grey  (1215-55),  in  its  ¥.. 
aisle,  is  considered  the  best  in  the  cathedral.  The  adjacent  monument 
of  Dean  Uuncombe  (d.  1880),  liy  Boehm,  is  also  fine.  The  piers  support- 
ing the  Central  Tower  have  a  Norman  core. 

The  majestic  "Choir  (Perp.)  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  elaborate 
Rood  Screen  (15th  cent.) ,  with  rich  tabernacle-work  and  statues  of  Eng- 
lish kings.  The  general  architectural  arrangements  of  the  choir  resemble 
those  of  the  nave;  the  E.  part,  including  the  Presbytery  and  the  Lady 
Chapel.,  is  the  earliest.  The  so-called  E.  Transept  does  not  project  beyond 
the  walls  of  the  choir-aisles,  but  is  indicated  by  a  bay  on  each  side  running 
up  to  the  roof  without  the  interposition  of  a  triforium  or  clerestory.  The 
choir  was  set  on  fire  by  a  madman  in  1829,  and  the  timber  vaulting  of 
the  roof  and  the  stalls  were  destroyed  (since  restored).  The  altar-screen 
is  also  a  reproduction  of  the  old  one.  The  great  ' E.  Window^  which  is 
second  in  size  (78  ft.  X  3L  ft.)  to  ihat  at  Gloucester  alone  (see  p.  172), 
retains  its  original  fine  glazing.  The  glass  in  the  clerestory  and  in  the  E. 
transepts  is  also  old.  The  shrine  of  St.  William  of  York,  a  12th  cent, 
saint,  whose  renown  for  sanctity  brought  great  wealth  to  the  cathedral, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  in  front  of  the  present  reredos.  The  mili- 
tary and  other  modern  monuments  in  the  choir  are  somewhat  incongruous. 
Among  the  older  ones  are  those  of  William  of  Hatfield  (d.  1344),  second 
son  of  Edward  HI.  (X.  aisle);  Abp.  Savage  (1501-7;  X.  aisle);  Abp.  Scrope 
(beheaded  in  1405;  presbytery);  Abp.  liowet  (1407-23;  presbytery). 

From  the  E.  aisle  of  the  K.  transept  we  enter  the  vestibule  of  the 
chapter-house,  noticing  near  the  door  the  Latin  inscription:  'Ut  rosa  llos 
florum,  Sic  est  domus  ista  domorum".  This  motto  scarcely  exaggerates  the 
merits  of  the  'Chaptek  House  (Dec),  which  is  generally  considered  the 
most  beautiful  in  England.  It  is  octagonal  in  form,  and  has  no  central  pillar. 
Each  bay  is  occupied  by  a  large  and  handsome  window,  with  geometrical 
tracery.     The  grotesque  and  other  carvings  below  are  also  excellent. 

The  Ckypt,  entered  from  the  choir-aisle,  is  of  late-Xorman  date  (12th 
cent.),  though  containing  some  earlier  work,  including  a  piece  of  herring- 
bone masonry,  which  may  go  back  to  the  Saxon  era  (comp.  pp.  414,  xxxiv). 

To  the  S.  of  the  choir  are  the  Record  Room,  Vestry  (with  the  'Horn 
of  Ulphus'  and  other  interesting  relics),  and  Treasury.  There  are  no 
cloisters;  and  in  spite  of  the  name  minster,  the  church  was  never  attached 
to  a  monastic  establishment.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  Minster  are  the  Deanery 
and  the  Cathedral  Library  (adm.  Wed.  11-1;  Sat.  2-4j,  with  some  valuable 
printed  books  and  MSS.  The  latter  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  chapel 
of  the  old  Archiepiscopal  Palace.  The  present  palace  is  at  Bishopthorpe, 
23/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  York. 

In  front  of  the  W.  end  of  the  Minster  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
of  St.  Wilfrid^  a  tasteful  French  Gothic  edifice,  which,  however, 
does  not  show  to  advantage  in  such  close  proximity  to  the  Minster, 
Just  to  the  E.  of  the  cathedral  is  a  Perp.  gateway  leading  to  St.  Wil- 
liam's College,  a  Jacobean  block  of  buildings  now  divided  into  small 
houses.  From  the  W.  end  of  the  Minster  the  Bootham  leads  N,\V.  to 
the  Fine  Art  Industrial  Institution,  which  contains  a  collection  of 
ancient  and  modern  paintings  and  of  natural  history  objects  (adm. 
6d.).  —  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  Guildhall,  an  interesting 
Perp.  building  (16th  cent.)  on  the  river,  approached  by  an  archway 


416     Route  51.  YORK.  From  London 

through  the  Mansion  House,  in  Coney  St.  The  windows  are  filled 
with  modern  stained  glass  of  scenes  from  the  history  of  York. 

Of  the  other  churches  in  York  the  most  interesting  are  All 
Saints\  North  St.,  with  fine  old  stained  glass;  St.  Martin-cum- 
Gregory,  Micklegate;  St.  Mary  the  Younger,  Bishophill,  with  a 
Saxon  tower;  St.  Mary,  Castlegate,  with  a  Perp.  tower;  St.  Mar- 
garet's, Walmgate,  with  a  rich  Norman  doorway  ;  St.  Crux,  Pave- 
ment (partly  dismantled),  with  a  fine  panelled  wooden  door  (Perp.) ; 
St.  Helen's,  Stonegate ;  and  St.  Martin's,  Coney  St.  (late-Perp.). 

Perhaps  the  first  thing  a  visitor  should  do  at  York  is  to  make  a 
circuit  (23/4  M.)  of  the  City  Walls,  which  were  built  ahout  the 
middle  of  the  llth  century,  partly  on  the  line  of  the  Roman  walls. 

Beginning  at  the  steps  by  the  arch  near  the  Leeman  statue  (p.  414), 
we  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  wall,  turn  to  the  right  (S.),  pass  round  the 
S.W.  corner,  cross  (5  min.)  the  railway,  and  soon  reach  (3  min.)  Mickle- 
gate Bar,  one  of  the  six  gateways.  Beyond  the  Bar  we  have  a  good  view 
of  St.  Mary's  (see  above)  and,  farther  on,  of  the  Minster.  In  7  min.  more 
we  pass  the  Bails  Hill,  or  Norman  Mound,  the  site  of  William  the  Con- 
queror's second  castle,  and  cross  the  Ouse  by  Skeldercjate  Bridge  (V2d.).  To 
the  left,  beyond  the  river,  is  the  Castle,  now  used  as  a  prison;  the  oldest 
part  is  Clifford's  Touer  (13th  cent.),  which  occupies  the  site  of  William 
the  Conqueror's  original  keep  (see  p.  413).  It  was  here  that  the  infamous 
massacre  of  500  Jews  took  place  in  the  reign  of  Richard  I.  (1189-99).  — 
We  cross  the  canal  and  regain  the  wall  at  (5  min.)  Fishergate.  7  min. 
Walmgate,  with  a  barbican,  or  outwork,  and  portcullis.  At  the  (3  min.) 
Red  Tower  the  wall  again  disappears,  and  we  follow  the  river  to  (5  min.) 
Layerthorpe  Bridge,  where  it  begins  again.  8  min.  Monk  Bar,  with  a  port- 
cullis. Beyond  this  point  we  hkve  to  leave  the  top  of  the  wall  and 
follow  the  Lord  Mayor  s  Walk  at  its  base  to  (8  min.)  Bootham  Bar.  This 
is  close  to  the  Minster  and  within  5  min.  of  Lendai  Bridge  (p.  414). 

Fhom  York  to  Harrogate,  20  M..  N.E.  Railway  in  3/4-I  br.  (fares  2s. 
iOd.,  is.  Sy-id.).  —  About  1/2  M.  to  the  left  of  (6  M.)  Marston  is  the  field  of 
Marston  Moor,  the  scene  of  Cromweirs  victory  over  the  Royalists  in  1644. 
—  9  M.  Kirkhammerton,  with  a  church  partly  of  Saxon  date.  —  I6V2  M. 
Knaresborough  ( Elephmit),  a  small  town  vs^th  4650  inhab.,  finely  situated 
on  the  Nidd.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  Castle  (14th  cent.)  are  of  no  great 
importance  (adm.  Qd.),  but  command  a  fine  view.  The  Church  contains 
some  interesting  monuments.  At  Knaresborough  are  a  Dropping  Well  (adm. 
6d.),  with  petrifying  properties,  and  St.  Roberfs  Chapel  (adm.  Gd.),  a  cave 
in  the  limestone  rock,  with  a  rudely-carved  figure  of  an  armed  man. 
About  1  M.  down  the  river  is  St.  Roberfs  Gave,  where  Eugene  Aram  con- 
cealed the  body  of  his  victim.  Knaresborough  is  a  good  centre  whence  to 
explore   the  picturesque  Nidderdale  (p.  430).  —  20  M.  Harrogate,  see  p.  429. 

From  York  to  Whitby  and  Scarborough,  see  R.  53;  to  Beverley  and 
Hull,  see  R.  55. 

To  the  right  of  the  railway,  4  M.  from  York,  lies  Skelton,  with  an 
interesting  E.  E.  church  (p.  xlv),  —  204  M.  Pilmoor. 

From  Pilmoor  to  Malton,  24  M.,  railway  in  IV4  br.  At  (5  M.)  Cox- 
wold ,  Sterne  (1713-68)  was  incumbent  from  1761,  and  wrote  Tristram 
Shandy  and  The  Sentimental  Journey  in  a  house  now  known  as  Shandii 
Hall.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  ruins'  of  Byland  Abbey,  4  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Rievaulx  Abbey  (see  below).  —  From  (9V2  M.)  Oilling  a  branch  diverges 
to  ii'i'UL.)  Pickering  (p.  427)  via  (6V2  M.)  ^eimsZey  (Black  Swan;  Feversham 
Arms,  well  spoken  of),  with  an  interesting  castle,  the  station  for  (2V2  M. ; 
or  through  Buncombe  Park,  3V2  M.)  *Rievaulx  or  Rivers  Abbey,  a  Cister- 
cian foundation  of  1131.  The  picturesque  ruins  (adm.  is.),  in  the  Norman 
and  E.  E.  styles,  consist  chiefly  of  the  choir  and  transepts  of  the  church 
(which  lay  nearly  X.  and  S.),  the  gatehouse,  and  the  refectory.     Beautiful 


to  Berwick.  NORTHALLERTON.  51.  Route.     417 

"View  from  the  terrace  above,  embracing  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Rpe. 
Hence  a  road  leads  via  (5  M.)  Whitstone  Cliff  {"View;  Hambleton  Hotel)  to 
(11  M.)  Thirsk.  — 24  M.  Malton,  see  fi.  427.  Another  line  runs  from  Pilmoor 
to  Knaresborough  (p.  416),  passing  (S'/z  M.)  Bovoughhridge,  V2  M.  to  the 
S.  of  which  is  Aldborough ,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  city  of  Isurium, 
with  a  museum  and  numerous  highly  interesting  remains. 

2IOV2  M.  Thirsk  (Fleece;  Kail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  small  country 
town  with  6500  inhab.  and  a  good  Perp.  church  ,  is  the  junction 
of  a  branch  to  Harrogate  and  Leeds  (see  R.  64).  The  Hambleton 
Hills,  with  their  fine  cliffs,  are  5  M.  to  the  W. 

218  M.  Northallerton  (Golden  Lion),  a  busy  railway-centre 
(3800  inhab.),  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  scene  of  the  Battle  of  the 
Standard  (1138). 

From  Noethallerton  to  Stockton  and  Hartlepool,  32  M.,  N.E. 
Railway  in  IV4-I3/4  hr.  (fares  is.  3d.,  2s.  Vf-zd.).  —  6^2  M.  Wdbin-ij.  About 
3  M.  to  the  S.E.,  near  East  Havhey^  are  the  ruins  of  Mount  Grace  Priorii, 
founded  in  1397,  one  of  the  tinest  Carthusian  monasteries  in  England.  10  M. 
Picton  is  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  Whitby  (p.  428).  —  14  M.  Eaglescliffe 
(Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  the  junction  of  lines  from  Darlington  (p.  418)  and 
to  (6  M.)  Middlesbrough  (Queen's;  Talbot;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  capital 
of  the  Cleveland  iron  district,  and  the  seat  of  a  R.  C.  bishop,  with  75,500 
inhab.,  on  the  estuary  of  the  Tees.  Fine  harbour  of  refuge.  —  17  M.  Stock- 
ton-on-Tees (Black  Lion;  Vane  Arms),  a  thriving  seaport  with  50,000  in- 
habitants. —  29  M.  West  Hartlepool  (Royal;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  modern 
seaport  on  Tees  Bay,  with  42,500  inhab.,  and  a  large  trade  in  coal.  — 
32  M.  East  Hartlepool  (Railway;  King's  Head),  another  seaport  (21,500  in- 
hab.), of  ancient  origin  but  modern  prosperity. 

From  Northallerton  to  Letbukn  and  Hawes,  34  M.,  railway  in  17-j- 
13/4  hr.  (fares  4^.  6d.,  2s.  lOd.).  This  line  traverses  -Wensleydale,  the 
upper  valley  of  the  Ure ,  a  picturesque  district,  especially  attractive 
to  the  pedestrian.  —  8  M.  Bedale  (Black  Swan),  with  a  Dec.  and  Perp. 
church  containing  some  line  monuments,  at  the  entrance  to  Wensley- 
dale,  is  also  near  the  Roman  Road  running  up  Sicaledale.  Hornby  Castle, 
5  M.  to  the  N.W.,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Leeds,  contains  some  good 
pictures.  —  11  M.  Jervaulx  (pron.  Jarvis),  about  31/2  M.  to  the  X.E.  of 
Jervaulx  Abbey,  built  by  Cistercians  in  1156.  —  18  M.  Leyburn  (Bolton 
Arms;  Golden  Lion),  one  of  the  best  headquarters  for  excursions  in  Wens- 
leydale.  Fine ''View  from  the  S/iawl,  a  rocky  terrace  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of 
the  town.  Middleham  (White  Swan),  2  M.  to  the  S.E.,  contains  several 
racing-stables  and  the  massive  ruins  of  an  old  castle  (key  in  the  village), 
which  belonged  to  Warwick,  the  King-Maker,  and  was  frequently  visited 
by  Richard  III.  Thence  the  excursion  may  be  continued  to  (6  M.  from 
Leyburn)  Jervaulx  Abbey  (see  above),  (10V2'M.)  Masham  (p.  431),  (13  31.) 
Hackfall  Woods  (p.  431),  and  (21  M.)  Ripon  (p.  430).  Excursions  may  also 
be  made  from  Leyburn  to  (5V2  M.)  Bolton  Castle  and  (8V2  M.)  Ai/sgarth 
Force  (see  below);  to  (9  M.)  Richmond  (p.  418),  etc.  —  19V2  M.  Wenshy. 
with  an  interesting  church  (E.E.  and  Perp.).  —  About  1  M.  to  the  N.W. 
of  0^21/2  M.)  Redmire  is  Bolton  Castle  (14th  cent.),  the  stronghold  of  the 
Scrope  family,  and  the  prison  of  Mary  Stuart  in  1568-69.  The  castle 
chapel  is  used  as  a  village  church.  —  125  M.  Aysgarth  (Miner''s  Arms). 
with  a  church,  rebuilt  in  1866,  containing  a  fine  rood-.'^creen  from  .Ter- 
vaulx  Abbey.  Aysgarth  Force,  a  fall  on  the  Ure,  V2  M.  below  the  bridge, 
is  one  of  the  chief  lions  of  Wensleydale.  A  road  runs  hence  to  the  S. 
through  Bishopdale  to  Buckden  and  "(15  M.)  Kettlewell,  at  the  head  of 
Wharfedale,  which  may  also  be  reached  through  Waldendale.  —  From 
(29  M.)  Askrigg  (King  s  Arms),  a  small  town  once  noted  for  clock-making, 
excursions  may  be  made  to  (}  1  M.)  Mill  Gill  Force,  (2V2  M-)  Whitfield 
QUI  Force  and  (3  M.)  Seamtr  Water,  a  lake  100  acres  in  area,  etc.  — 
34  M.  Hawes  (White   Hart)    is  a  good  centre   for   excursions  to  (IV2  M.) 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.     4th  Edit.  27 


418     Route  51.  DARLINGTON.  From  London 

"Hai'drau}  Force,   (7  M.)  Muker ,  in  Swaledale,  etc.   —  Beyond  Hawes  the 
line  goes  on  to  join  the  Midland  Railway  at  (6  M.)  Eawes  junction  (p.  412). 
From  Northallerton  to  Leeds,  see  R.  54. 

From  (227  M.)  Dalton  a  branch  runs  to  (10  M.)  Richmond 
(King's  Head),  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Swale,  with  4200 
iuhab.,  a  good  centre  for  excursions  in  Swaledale.  *  Richmond  Castle, 
with  its  grand  Norman  keep  on  a  lofty  crag  sheer  above  the  river, 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Dukes  of  Brittany. 

Among  the  mjst  attractive  short  walks  from  Richmond  are  those  to 
Easby  Abieu  (11/4  M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  X.  bank  of  the  Swale),  to  ihe.  Race 
Course  (845  ft.;  ''View"),  to  St.  Martin's  Priory,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Swale 
(1  M.),  and  to  Aske  Hall  (Earl  of  Zetland-,  2  M.  to  the  X.). 

233  M.  Darlington  (Kings  Head;  Fleece;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms), 
a  busy  town  with  38,000 inhab.,  is  an  important  seat  of  the  manu- 
facture of  woollens  and  carpets.  The  'Stockton  and  Darlington 
Railway',  the  llrst  passenger -line  in  the  country,  was  opened  in 
1825,  mainly  through  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  Edward  Pease,  a  member 
of  a  well-known  Quaker  family  of  Darlington.  The  first  locomotive 
used  on  the  line  is  preserved  in  a  glass-house  at  the  end  of  the 
main  platform  of  the  Bank  Top  Station.  The  Church  of  St.  Cuthbert 
is  a  very  handsome  edifice,  of  the  12th  cent.,  restored  by  Scott. 

Fkom  Daelin'gtox  to  Tebat,  5UV-M.,  railway  in  11/2-2  hrs.  (fares  Qa. 
li'd.,  4s.  3V-"^)-  This  pi.tLiresque  line  is  ca-ried  over  the  Stahvnoor  Fells. 
—  151/2  31.  Barnard  Castle  (King's  Head;  Bahu),  with  a  picturesque  ruined 
Castle  (adm.  2d.),  on  a  crag  overlooking  the  Tee>,  and  the  handsome  Bowes 
Museum.  Streatliam.  Castle  (Earl  ot  Strathmore)  lies  3  M.  tu  the  X.E..  and 
Roby  (p.  422),  4  M.  farther  on.  Barnard  Castle  is  the  junction  of  the  Tees 
Valley  Line  to  (81/4  M.)  Middleton-in-Teesda!e,  51/2  M.  beyond  which  (coach) 
is  High  Force  (Hotel),  one  of  the  highest  (60  ft.)  and  "finest  waterfalls  in 
England.  Coaches  also  ply  from  Barnard  Castle  direct  to  High  Force 
(I6V2  M.),  passing  through  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  Tees  Valley.  — 
211/2  M.  Bowes  (L'nicorn).  with  the  reputed  original  of  Dotheboys  Hall,  and 
5  M.  to  the  W.  of  Rokebu.  —  38'/-'  M.  Kirkbr/  Stepheii,  junction  of  a  line  to 
Appleby  and  l^enrith  (p.  382).  —  5072  M.   Tebay,  see  p'.  381. 

Branch-lines  also  ran  from  Darlington  to  Bishop  Auckland  (p.  422), 
Middlesbrough  (see  p.  417),  and  S!ockton  (see  p.  417). 

From  (247  M.)  FerryhillJunction.  branch-lines  run  to  Hartlepool 
(p.  417);  to  Bishop  Auckland  (p.  422j;  and  to  Coxhoe. 

256  M.  Durham.  —  Hotels.  *Theee  Tlxs,  Xew  Elvet,  an  old-fash- 
ioned but  comfortable  house,  R.  &  A.  4s.;  'Couxty,  Old  Elvet,  -Rose  & 
Crown,  both  first-class.  —  Waterloo,  unpretending.  —  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Durham,  the  county-town  of  the  shire  of  that  name,  and  the  see 
of  a  bishop,  is  an  ancient  town  with  15,300  inhab..  finely  situated 
on  the  Wear.  The  older  and  more  important  part  of  the  town,  in- 
cluding the  cathedral  and  castle,  occupies  an  elevated  tongue  of  land 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  a  horseshoe  loop  of  the  river,  but 
the  more  modern  quarters  lie  on  the  flatter  banks  to  the  E.  and  W. 

Little  is  known  of  the  history  of  Durham  before  995,  when  the  relics  of 
St.  Cuthbert  were  brought  hither  by  Bishop  Ealdhun,  who  also  removed 
his  see  from  Chester-le-Street  to  Durham  (comp.  pp.  422,  425).  Walcher, 
the  first  bishop  after  the  Conquest,  was  created  Earl  of  Northumberland; 
and  he  and  his  successors  for  the  next  four  centuries  exercised  an  almost 
entirely  independent  sway  over   the  Palatinate  of  Durham.     'The  Prelate 


to  Berwick.  DURHAM.  51.  Route.     419 

of  Durham  became  one,  and  the  more  important,  of  the  only  two  English 
prelates  whose  worldly  franchises  invested  them  with  some  faint  shadow 
of  the  sovereign  powers  enjoyed  by  the  princely  churchmen  of  the  Empire. 
The  Bishop  of  Ely  in  his  island,  the  Bishop  of  Durham  in  his  hill-fortress, 
possessed  powers  which  no  other  English  ecclesiastic  was  allowed  to 
share'  (l-'reeman).  At  a  later  period  Durham  suffered  severely  from  the 
inroads  of  the  Scottish  borderers. 

The  pleasantest  way  to  reach  the  cathedral  from  the  hotels  is 
to  follow  the  New  Elvet  and  Church  St.  to  (5  min.)  St.  Oswald's 
Churchy  cross  the  churchyard  to  the  right  of  the  church,  and  follow 
the  pretty  wooded  walk  called  the  'Banks'  to  (8  min.)  the  Prebend's 
Bridge.  After  crossing  the  hridge  we  turn  to  the  left,  pass  below 
the  AV.  front  of  the  cathedral,  and  then  ascend  to  the  right. 

*Durliam  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  and  locally 
known  as  the  Abbey,  is  one  of  the  most  important  and  most  grandly 
situated  of  English  cathedrals.  The  general  effect,  however,  has 
been  impaired  l»y  the  chipping  away  of  the  stone  during  Wyatt's 
restoration  (see  below).  The  distant  views  are  the  best.  The  cathe- 
dral is  510  ft.  long,  80  ft.  wide,  170  ft.  across  the  transepts,  and 
70  ft.  high.  The  Central  Tower,  the  top  of  which  commands  a  most 
extensive  view,  is  214  ft.  high;  the  VV.  Towers.  138  ft. 

When  the  monks  of  Lindisfarne,  attracted  probably  by  its  capability  of 
defence,  fixed  upon  Durham  as  a  resting-place  for  St.  Cuthbert's  remains 
(see  p.  418),  they  built  a  chiirch  here  for  the  reception  of  the  relics,  and 
this  edifice  was  consecrated  in  999.  To  replace  this,  Bishop  William  of  St. 
Calais,  the  second  bishop  after  the  Norman  Conqxiest,  began  a  new  and 
larger  chtirch.  and  seems  to  have  completed  the  Choir  (1093-95).  The 
Transepts,  Nave,  and  G/iapter  House,  also  in  the  Norman  style,  were  all 
finished  by  1143;  the  Transitional  Ladii  Chapel  by  1195;  the  E.  Transept 
or  '■Nine  Altars^  (K.E.),  replacing  the  Norman  apse,  by  1230.  The  Cloisters, 
Library,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  Central  Tower  are  Perp.  (1400-80).  A 
destructive  restoration  was  carried  out  by  Wi/att  (comp.  pp.  99,  ITS)  in 
1778-1800,  sweeping  away  many  ancient  details,  and  spoiling  the  exterior 
by  scraping.     More  recently  the  entire  building  was  restored  by  Scott. 

"Interior.  We  enter  the  Cathedral  by  the  N.  Portal,  consisting  of 
five  recessed  arches  in  the  late-Norman  style,  surmounted  by  incongruous 
(modern)  pinnacles.  To  the  door  is  affixed  an  ancient  grotesque  knocker, 
which  was  sounded  by  malefactors  seeking  sanctuary  at  the  shrine  of  St. 
Outhbert.  The  nave  is  open  throughout  the  day,  but  application  must 
be  made  to  the  verger  for  admission  to  the  choir,  Galilee,  etc.  On  enter- 
ing the  *Nave,  we  at  once  realise  the  strength  of  the  claim  that  is  made  for 
Durham  as  the  grandest  Norman  building  in  the  country  (comp.  p.  xxxviii). 
The  effect  produced  is  one  of  great  solemnity,  Dr.  Johnson  describes  it 
as  making  on  him  an  impression  of  'ri»cky  solidity  and  indeterminate 
duration'.  The  full  length  of  the  building  is  seen  in  an  unbroken  view.  The 
arches  of  the  nave  are  borne  alternately  by  massive  circular  piers,  adorned 
with  deep  incised  lines  forming  zigzag  and  lattice-work  patterns,  and  by 
square  piers,  with  subordinate  shafts.  The  vaulting  seems  to  be  late-Nor- 
man work.  The  various  portals  should  also  be  noticed.  On  the  pavement, 
between  the  second  pair  of  piers  (beginning  from  the  W.  end),  is  a  blue 
marble  cross,  marking  the  limit  beyond  which  women  were  not  allowed 
to  pass.  Among  the  few  monuments  in  the  nave  the  most  interesting  are 
those  of  the  Nevilles,  now  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition,  on  the  S.  side, 
near  the  E.  end.  —  The  W.  Doorway  of  the  nave,  formerly  the  main 
entrance  to  the  Cathedral,  now  leads  to  the  *G.xULEEt  or  Lauv  Cuai'Kl, 

t  So  called  from  an  allusion  to  'Galilee  of  the  Gentiles',  as  being  less 
sacred  than  the  rest  of  the  church;  comp.  pp.  435,  448. 


420     Route  51.  DURHAM.  From  London 

a  fine  example  of  Transition  Korman  (ca.  1175),  with  later  alterations,  in- 
cluding the  windows.  Its  eflfect,  as  has  often  been  said,  is  almost  Sara- 
cenic (comp.  p.  xxxix).  To  the  S.  of  the  main  entrance  are  traces  of  the 
Shrine  of  the  Venerable  Bede  (d.  735),  whose  remains  are  believed  to  lie 
below  the  slab  in  front,  with  the  inscription:  'Hac  sunt  in  fossa  Bsedae 
venerabilis  ossa\  On  the  other  side  was  an  altar  to  'Our  Lady  of  Pity",  in 
a  recess  adorned  with  frescoes,  which  still  remains.  Bishop  Langley  (1406-37) 
blocked  up  the  main  door  and  erected  an  Altar  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  in 
front  of  it,  below  which  is  his  own  tomb. 

The  Great  Transepts  were  erected  shortly  before  the  nave,  which 
they  resemble*,  the  large  windows  are  of  later  insertion.  The  E.  aisles  were 
each  occupied  by  three  altars.  In  the  S.  arm  is  a  Statue  of  Bp.  Barrington 
(d.  1826),  by  Chantrey.  —  The  Central  Tower  is  borne  by  four  huge  clus- 
tered piers  \  round  the  interior  of  the  lantern  runs  an  open  parapet  resting  on 
grotesque  corbels.    The  staircase  to  the  top  is  reached  from  the  S.  Transept. 

The  *Choir  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  screen  designed  by  Scott. 
In  general  aspect  it  is  like  the  nave,  though  there  are  numerous  variations 
jn  detail,  such  as  the  spiral  grooves  round  the  circular  piers  and  the 
disposition  of  the  clerestory.  The  vaulting  dates  from  about  1800.  The 
Altar  Screen  was  erected  in  1380,  and  the  Stalls  in  1660-72.  The  'Episco- 
pal Throne  was  erected  by  Bishop  Hatfield  (1345-81),  to  serve  also  as  a 
tomb  for  himself.  Behind  the  reredos  is  the  Feretory  of  St.  Cuthbert,  on 
which  his  shrine  stood.  His  remains  still  lie  below  it.  The  Norman  choir 
originally  ended  in  an  apse,  the  place  of  which  has  been  taken  by  the  so- 
called  'Nine  Altars",  or  E.  Transept,  a  graceful  erection  of  about  1230-80, 
showing  the  transition  from  E.E.  to  geometrical  Decorated.  The  way  in 
which  this  elaborate  Gothic  work  is  united  with  the  massive  Norman  of 
the  choir  is  marked  by  great  constructive  ingenuity  and  artistic  sense. 
The  nine  altars  were  ranged  along  the  E.  wall.  The  arcade  beneath  the 
windows,  and  indeed  all  the  details,  deserve  careful  inspection.  The  pour 
tracery  and  glass  of  the  rose-window  are  modern.  At  the  N.  end  is  a 
Statue  of  Bishop  Mildert  (d.  1831),  by  Gibson.  The  modern  sculpture  of  a 
cow,  on  the  outside  (N.)  of  this  transept,  commemorates  the  legend  that 
the  monks  of  Lindisfarne  were  led  to  the  site  of  the  cathedral  by  a  dun  cow. 

The  Chapter  House,  which  was  undoubtedly  the  linest  Norman  room 
(1135-40)  of  the  kind  in  England,  was  destroyed  by  "Wyatt  (p.  419),  but 
has  recently  been  restored  in  accordance  with  the  original  design.  The 
present  chamber,  reached  from  the  end  of  the  S.  transept,  includes  the 
W.  part  of  the  old  one  and  incorporates  some  of  its  details.  —  Through 
the  "Prior's  Door  (late-Norman)  at  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  of  the  nave, 
we  enter  the  Cloisters  (1368-1498).  The  window-tracery  was  renewed 
last  century.  The  N.  walk  still  retains  its  'carrels\  or  study-recesses. 
In  the  centre  of  the  cloister-garth  is  the  Monks'  Lavatory. 

The  Domestic  Buildings  of  the  Benedictine  Monastery  still  remain 
in  excellent  order.  To  the  S.E.  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Priovy  (now  the 
Deanery).  On  the  W.  the  cloisters  are  adjoined  by  the  Dormitory  (ca. 
1400),  now  the  New  Library.,  a  magnificent  room,  almost  in  its  original 
condition.  To  the  S.  of  the  cloisters  is  the  Refectory.,  now  known  as  the 
Old  Library^  which  contains  several  valuable  MSS.  and  the  interesting 
relics  found  in  the  coffin  of  St.  Cuthbert  (p.  41S)  in  1827.  The  early- 
Norman  Crypt  below  this  room  is  older  than  any  part  of  the  Cathedral 
itself.  T'h.i  Monies''  Kitchen.,  adjoining  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Dormitory, 
is  a  fine  octagonal  structure  of  the  14th  century.  The  Oreat  Gateway., 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  Abbey  Yard,  dates  from  about  1500. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Cathedral,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Palace 
Green  and  on  the  neck  of  the  peninsula,  rises  the  Castle  (adm.  Is.), 
originally  erected  by  William  the  Conqueror  in  1072,  rebuilt  by 
Bishop  Hugh  of  Puiset  about  a  century  later,  and  subsequently 
added  to  and  altered.  It  was  long  the  seat  of  the  bishops,  and  is 
now  occupied  by  Durham  University,  established  in  1833. 


to  Berwick.  DURHAM.  51.  Route.     421 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  interior  is  the.  Norman  work  of  Hugh 
of  Puiset,  including  a  fine  arcade  and  a  'Doorway  resembling  the  Prior's 
r)oor  in  the  Cathedral  (p.  420).  These  are  now  seen  in  a  gallery  built 
in  front  of  Hugh's  work  in  the  16th  century.  Visitors  should  also  ask  to 
see  the  ''Norman  Gallery'  on  the  upper  floor,  close  to  the  students" 
dormitory.  On  the  ground-lloor  of  the  Keep  (14th  cent.),  the  top  of  which 
commands  a  line  view,  is  the  ''Norman  ChapeV.  The  Dining  Hall  (14th 
cent.)  and  the  Black  Staircase  of  carved  oak  (17th  cent.)  are  also  noticeable. 

Most  of  the  other  buildings  round  Palace  Green  also  belong  to  the 
University.    On  the  W.  side  are  the  Exchequer  and  Bishop  Cosines  Library, 

—  Besides  University  College,  with  its  seat  in  the  Castle,  the  University 
comprises  Hatfield  Hall,  in  the  North  Bailey. 

In  the  South  Bailey,  near  the  Cathedral,  is  the  curious  little 
church  of  St.  Mary  the  Less  (12th  cent.) ,  lately  almost  entirely 
rebuilt.  Following  the  same  street  towards  the  S.,  we  reach  the 
Water  Gate  and  a  fragment  of  the  old  City  Wall.  —  In  the  Market 
Place,  to  the  N.  of  the  Castle,  are  the  Tovcn  Hall,  the  modern 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  and  a  Statue  of  the  Marquis  of  Londonderry. 
From  this  point  Silver  St.  leads  to  the  S.  to  Framwellgate  Bridge 
(rebuilt  in  the  15th  cent.),  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Cathe- 
dral and  Castle.  Beyond  the  bridge  King  Street  and  North  Road 
(in  which  is  the  Durham  Miners  Hall)  ascend  to  the  station. 

Environs.  A  pleasant  short  excursion  may  be  made  to  Finchale  Priory, 
31/2  M.  to  the  N.  Starting  from  the  market-place,  we  cross  the  Fram- 
wellgate Bridge  and  follow  the  Framwellgate  to  the  right.  At  the  (\4  M.) 
end  of  this  street  we  bend  to  the  right  and  take  the  road  along  or  near 
the  river,  which  soon  becomes  a  green  lane  and  linally  a  field -path. 
After  about  V2  M.  we  see  to  the  right,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
the  red -tiled  Kepier  Hospital  (12th  cent.),  with  its  picturesque  gateway. 
After  V4  M.  more  we  turn  to  the  left,  ascending  towards  a  farm,  which 
we  leave  to  our  left,  passing  through  a  wicket-gate.  We  then  cross  a 
(71/2  min.)  stile  into  a  lane,  leading  to  (7  min.)  a  row  of  cottages,  just 
beyond  which  we  cross  the  railway,  at  the  Brasside  Brick  d-  Tile  Works. 
We  then  follow  the  road,  which  bends  to  the  left,  to  the  (Vj  M.)  cross- 
roads, where  a  sign-post  indicates  the  way  to  (1  M.)  'Finchale  Priory. 
The  ruins  are  charmingly  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Wear  and  are  in  the 
Dec.  style  (13th  cent.). — We  may  return  to  Durham  either  by  train  from 
Leamside,  which  is  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  priory,  or  by  the  highroad 
(3V2  M.  from  the  above-mentioned  cross-roads).  In  the  latter  case  a 
slight  detour  may  be  made  to  include  NevilWa  Cross  (3/4  M.  to  the  S.W, 
of  Durham),  erected  by  Lord  Neville  to  commemorate  his  defeat  and 
capture  of  David  II.  of  Scotland  in  1346. 

In  the  opposite  direction  (41/2  M.  to  the  S.W.)  lies  Brancepeth  Castle, 
the  ancient  seat  of  the  Nevilles.  Adjacent  is  the  curious  old  Church  of 
St.  Brandon.  The  direct  road  passes  Neville's  Cross  (see  above).  —  To  the 
S.  lie  the  Maiden  Cattle  (a  Koman  or  Saxon  earthwork),  Mountjoy  (where 
the  monks  of  Lindisfarne  first  halted),  the  manor-house  of  Houghall, 
visited   by  Oliver  Cromwell,   and    the   (3  M.)   Moated  Grange  of  Butterby. 

—  Other  points  of  interest  are  Sherburn  Hospital  (1181),  2'/2  M.  to  the  E.; 
Ushaw  Rom.  Cath.  College,  3V2  M.  to  the  W.;  and  Langley  Hall.  Longer 
excursions  may  be  made  to  Raby  Castle  (p.  422),  Chester-le-Street.  etc. 

From  Durham  to  Sunderland,  14  M.,  N.E.  Kailway  in  Vs-l^  hr.  (fares 
2.<!.,  is.  3d.).  —  The  first  station  is  (4  ^I.)  Leamside,  iiea'r  Finchale  Priory 
(see  above).  —  14  M.  Sunderland  ((^(/eerj's;  Walton's;  Empress;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  a  busy  seaport  and  outlet  for  a  large  coal-district,  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Wear  and  contains  142,010  inhabitants.  Its  iron  ship-building  yards 
are  important.  On  the  oppo.'-ite  bank  lies  Monkwearmouth.  with  the 
interesting  priory-church  of  St.  Peter  (restored  in  1875),  which  claims  to 
have  been  the  first  church  with  glass  windows  in  England.    The  Pemberton 


422     Route  51.  NEWCASTLE.  From  London 

Coal  Mine  here  is  eaid  to  be  the  deepest  in  the  world  (2286  ft.).  Bishop- 
wearmouth,  to  the  S.,  is  also  part  of  Sunderland.  —  Eoker-on-Sea,  adjoining 
Monkwearmouth,  is  a  popular  sea-bathing  and  holiday  resort.  Sunderland 
is  connected  by  railway  with  Is'^ewcastle,  South  Shields,  Hartlepool,  etc. 
From  Dckham  to  Bishop  Auckland,  lO'/z  M.,  N.E.  Railway  in  V2  hr. 
(fares  Is.  Id.,  iid.).  —  41/2  M.  Brancepeth,  see  p.  421.  —  IOV2  M.  Bishop 
Auckland  (Talbot;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  an  ancient  town  on  the  Wear,  with 
10,500  inhab.,  has  its  name  from  Auckland  Castle,  the  large  palace  of  the 
Bishops  of  Durham,  with  an  extensive  park  (open).  The  stained  -  glass 
windows  of  the  bishop's  chapel  contain  portraits  of  Bishop  Westcott,  Abp. 
Benson,  etc.  —  Raby  Castle,  7  M.  to  the  S.W.,  a  stately  castellated  pile  of 
the  14th  cent.,  long  the  seat  of  the  Nevilles,  now  belongs  to  Lord  Barnard. 
It  contains  a  fine  collection  of  paintings.  At  the  foot  of  the  park  is  the 
interesting  church  of  Staindrop.  —  About  IV2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Bishop's 
Auckland  is  the  interesting  church  of  Escomb  (see  p.  xxxv). 

Soon  after  leaving  Durham  we  reach  (262  M.)  Chester-le-Street 
(Lambton  Arms),  an  ancient  town,  probably  on  the  site  of  the  Ro- 
man Condercum.  After  the  flight  from  Lindisfarne  (see  pp.  426, 
418),  Chester-le-Street  was  the  seat  of  the  bishop  of  Bernicia  for 
upwards  of  a  century  (883-995).  About  2/4  M.  to  the  E.  is  Lumley 
Castle  (Earl  of  Scarborough).  —  Near  (2631/2  M.)  Lamesley  is 
Ravensworth  Castle  (Earl  of  Ravensworth),  a  fine  baronial  mansion. 

2Q7^/2  M.  Gateshead  is  a  large  and  uninteresting  manufacturing 
town  (86,000  inhab.),  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tyne,  practically 
forms  part  of  Newcastle.  —  We  now  cross  the  river  by  the  High 
Level  Bridge  (see  p.  423)  and  reach  Newcastle. 

268^2  M.  Newcastle.  —  Hotels.  Station  Hotel;  Grand;  M£tku- 
POLE-,  Crown;  Douglas  ;  County,  Grainger  St.  West;  Central  Exchange, 
Grey  St. ;  Turk's  Head,  69  Grey  St.  —  Turf,  R.  &  A.  3«.  Gd.;  Alexandra; 
Royal  Exchange  ;  York  Temperance.  —  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms. 

Tramways  run  through  the  chief  streets,  to  Gateshead  (see  above), 
Jesmond  (p.  424),   etc.   —  Cab  from  the  station  to  the  town  is.;  omn.  6d. 

U.  S.  Consul,  Horace  W.  Metcalf,  Jisq. 

Neu'castle-on-Tyne,  a  busy  town,  with  212,000  inhab.  (1896), 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tyne,  9  M.  from  its  mouth,  in  an  ex- 
tensive coal-field,  which  has  made  it  one  of  the  chief  coal-exporting 
ports  of  Great  Britain.  It  has  also  large  ship-building  yards  and 
manufactories  of  locomotives  and  iron  goods. 

Newcastle,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  Roman  Pons  jUlii,  was  in 
the  Saxon  period  named  Monk  Chester,  from  the  number  of  its  monastic 
institutions.  It  was  also  visited  by  numerous  pilgrims  to  the  Holy  Well 
of  Jesus  Mount  (.Tesmond,  see  p.  424).  The  present  name  came  into  use 
after  the  erection  of  the  castle  by  Robert  Curthose  (p.  423).  Since  1882 
Newcastle  has  been  the  see  of  a  bishop. 

On  the  island  platform  of  the  Central  Station  is  preserved 
'Stephenson's  No.  1  Engine'.  On  issuing  from  the  station  we  see 
in  front  of  us,  to  the  left,  St.  Mary's  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  a 
handsome  modern  building.  We  turn  to  the  right,  pass  the  Statue 
of  George  Stephenson  (d.  1848),  and  proceed  through  Collingwood 
St.  At  the  end  of  this  street,  to  the  left,  are  the  Municipal  Build- 
ings. To  the  right  stands  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  (14th  cent.), 
with  a  fine  lantern-tower  (194  ft.). 


to  Berwick.  NEWCASTLE.  51.  Route.     423 

St.  Nicholas  was  raised  to  cathedral  rank  in  1882  (daily  services  at 
10  and  5).  —  Among  the  monuments  in  the  interior  are  those  of  a  Cru- 
sader (14th  cent. ;  in  a  small  chapel  ofV  the  S.  aisle),  Sir  Matthew  Ridley 
(by  Flaxman;  N.W.  pier  at  cross),  and  Admiral  Collmgwood  (S.W.  pier 
at  cross).  The  altar-piece  is  ascribed  to  Tintoretto.  John  Knox  and  Oeorge 
Wishart  were  both  for  a  time  afternoon  lecturers  at  this  church.  —  No.  27 
St.  Nicholas  Churchyard  was  the  workshop  of  Thomas  Bewick  (tablet; 
comp.  below). 

On  leaving  the  church  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  St. 
Nii^holas  Buildings  to  the  Black  Gate,  built  in  1248,  and  originally 
one  of  the  gates  in  the  wall  surrounding  the  Castle ;  the  upper 
story  contains  a  collection  of  antiquities.  The  *CastIe  was  founded 
in  the  11th  cent,  by  Robert  Curthose  (p.  194),  but  the  Keep,  the 
only  part  remaining,  dates  from  1172-77  (adm.  Qd,'). 

The  Keep  is  85  ft.  high  (to  the  top  of  the  turret  107  ft.),  and  its  walls 
are  12-18  ft.  thick.  We  reach  the  interior  by  ascending  an  outside  staircase. 
The  finest  room  is  the  Norman  'Chapel,  on  the  first  floor;  but  the  Great 
Hall  (in  which  Baliol  swore  fealty  to  Edward  I.)  and  other  chambers  are 
also  interesting.     The  roof  affords  a  good  -View  of  Newcastle. 

We  may  now  cross  the  river  by  the  *Higli  Level  Bridge  (toll 
1/2  d-),  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill,  designed  by  Robert  Stephen- 
son, of  which  Newcastle  is  justly  proud.  The  upper  level,  112  ft. 
above  high- water  mark,  is  used  by  the  railway,  and  from  it  is 
hung  the  roadway.    The  bridge  cost  nearly  500,000i. 

Recrossing  the  Tyne  by  the  Siving  Bridge,  just  below  the  High 
Level  Bridge,  we  proceed  through  the  Sandhill,  in  which,  to  the 
right,  stands  the  old  Guildhall,  now  used  as  a  commercial  exchange. 

Above  No.  41  (tablet),  on  the  other  side,  is  a  window,  marked  by  a 
blue  pane,  through  which  Miss  Surtees  escaped  in  1772,  to  elope  with 
her  lover,  John  Scott  Eldon,  afterwards  Lord  Chancellor  of  England. 

From  the  end  of  the  Sandhill  we  ascend  to  the  left,  through 
the  Side,  the  picturesqueness  of  which  is  being  modernized  out  of 
existence  (No.  84,  the  birthplace  of  Adm.  Collingwood  in  1748 ), 
and  pass  through  Dean  St.  (to  the  right)  to  Grky  Street,  one  of 
the  chief  thoroughfares  of  Newcastle.  To  the  right  is  the  Theatre 
Royal,  and  to  the  left  the  Bank  of  England.  At  the  top  of  the  street 
are  the  Central  Exchange  (containing  an  art-collection)  and  a 
Monument  to  Earl  Grey  (d.  1845). 

A  tablet  at  No.  53  Grainger  St..  lending  hence  back  to  the  station,  com- 
memorates visits  of  Garibaldi  (1864),  Kossuth  (1856),  and  William  Lloyd 
Garrison  (1876). 

Crossing  Blackett  St.,  we  now  proceed  by  Northumberland  St. 
and  Barras  Bridge  to  the  (1/2  ^1-)  Museum,  containing  good  cabinets 
of  birds  and  fossils  of  the  coal-measures,  and  a  complete  collection 
of  the  prints  of  the  Northumbrian  Bewick  (d.  1828). 

In  Bath  Road,  diverging  to  the  right  from  Northumberland  St.,  is 
the  Medical  School  of  Durham  University.  —  A  road  leading  to  the  left  at 
the  beginning  of  Barras  Bridge  contains  the  College  of  Science.  At  33  Eldon 
Place,  the  next  opening  on  the  left,  George  and  Robert  Stephenson  lived 
in  1824-25  (tablet).  —  In  Elswick  Hall,  in  Elsicick  Park,  1  M.  to  the  W. 
of  the  station,  is  an  interesting  collection  of  models  of  works  by  Lough 
and  Noble  (catalogue  3oJ,). 


424     Route  5 h  MORPETH.  From  London 

Those  whose  time  allows  should  go  on  through  the  Jesmond  Road 
(tramway,  see  p.  416)  to  (1  M.)  'Jesmond  Dene,  a  prettily  wooded  little 
glen,  now  laid  out  as  a  public  park.  The  remains  of  the  Pilgrimage 
Chapel  (p.  422)  stand  on  the  edge  of  the  valley.  We  may  return  across  the 
Town  Moor.  —  A  visit  may  be  paid  (after  previous  application)  to  the  Ord- 
nance Works,  Steel  Works,  and  Shipbuilding  Yard  of  Lord  Armstrong,  at 
Elswick^  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Newcastle  (rail,  stat.),  which  employ  16  000 
workpeople.  —  A  Rowing  Regatta  on  the  Tyne  should  be  seen  if  possible. 

A  steamboat -trip  (fare  M.)  may  be  taken  down  the  Tyne  to  Tyne- 
niouth.  In  spite  of  the  colour  of  the  water,  Tyne  salmon  have  a  great 
reputation  for  delicacy  of  flavour.  Among  the  stopping-places  are  Walls- 
endy  so-called  from  its  position  at  the  end  of  the  Roman  Wall  (p.  383) 
and  famous  for  its  coal ;  Jarrow^  with  a  few  fragments  of  the  monastery 
of  the  Venerable  Bede;  liorth  Shields;  and  South  Shields  {Royal;  Golden 
Lion;  78,500  inhab.),  two  important  seaports.  —  Tynemouth  (Crfrnd,-  Bath; 
Royal)  is  frequented  for  sea-bathing  (46,000  inhab.).  The  ruins  of  the 
Priory  are  interesting.  —  The  return  to  Newcastle  may  be  made  by  rail- 
way. —  We  may  also  make  an  excursion  up  the  river  to  Hexham  (p.  426) 
and  Gilsland  (p.  425). 

From  Newcastle  to  Carlisle,  see  R.  52.  A  railway  also  runs  from  New- 
castle to  Sunderland  (p.  421). 

The  train  backs  out  of  Newcastle  and  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  high-level  bridge. 

At  (275  M.)  Killingworth  George  Stephenson  made  his  first  loco- 
motive (see  p.  422).  —  285  M.  Morpeth  (Queen's  Head;  Black  Bull), 
a  small  town  (5220  inhab.),  with  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  Norman 
castle  and  a  curious  clock -tower,  is  the  junction  for  Scofs  Gap 
(1  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  Camho,  with  the  'Wesley  Tree'),  Beeds- 
mouth,  Rothbury,  and  Blyth.  Beyond  this  point  the  sea  is  generally 
visible  to  the  right.  About  I74  M.  to  the  right  of  (305  M.)  Wark- 
worth  (Sun)  is  *Warkworth  Castle,  an  excellently -preserved 
feudal  fortress  (12-14th  cent.),  near  the  mouth  of  the  Coquet. 
Warkworth  Hermitage  figures  in  the  Percy  Reliques.  —  310  M. 
Alnmouth.  The  village  (Ship),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Alne,  1  M.  to 
the  E.  of  the  station,  is  a  pleasant  watering-place,  with  golf-links. 
A  branch  diverges  here,  on  the  left,  to  Alnwick.  Wooler^  and  Cold- 
stream (p.  465). 

Alnwick  (White  Swan)  is  a  town  of  6750  inhab.,  on  the  Alne.  *Aln- 
wick  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  one  of  the  finest 
feudal  piles  in  England,  has  been  restored,  and  contains  interesting  paint- 
ings and  antiquities.     The  oldest  part  is  the  Norman  gateway  (I2th  cent.). 

About  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  (316  M.)  Christon  Bank  are  the  ruins 
of  Dunstanburgh  Castle.  —  323  M.  Lucker  is  the  nearest  station  for 
a  visit  to  the  Fame  Isles  (boat  about  10s.). 

The  largest  of  these  islands  was  St.  Cuthbert's  home  for  nine  years. 
The  Long  Stone  Lighthouse,  on  the  easternmost  isle,  was  the  scene  of  Grace 
Darling  s  heroism  in  1838.  —  On  the  mainland,  opposite  the  Fame  Isles 
(2V2  M.  from  Lucker),  is  Bamborongh  (Victoria).  Bamborough  Castle,  on 
the  site  of  a  Saxon  stronghold,  which  perhaps  replaced  a  Roman  station, 
now  belongs  to  a  charity,  and  contains  a  dispensary  and  schools.  Lancelot's 
castle  of  Joyoris  Card  is  usiially  identified  with  Bamborongh  or  Alnwick. 
Bamborough  churchyard  contains  a  memorial  of  Grace  Darling.  —  About 
6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Lucker  is  Chillingham,  the  seat  of  Earl  Tankerville; 
the  park  contains  a  herd  of  wild  white  cattle  (comp.  p.  490). 

330  M.  Beal  is  the  station  for  Lindisfarne,  01  Holy  Island  (Inns), 


to  Berwick.  BERWICK-ON-TWEED.        51.  Route.     425 

wliich  is  11/2  M.  from  the  mainland  by  boat  at  high-water,  and  may 
also  be  reached  on  foot  by  crossing  the  sands  at  low  water  (3^2  ^O' 
Lindisfarne  Abbey  was  originally  founded  in  the  7tli  cent,  by  *S'<. 
Aidon.  SI.  Cuthhert  afterwards  became  Bishop  of  Lindisfarne  and  died 
here  in  687.  In  883  the  monks  of  Lindisfarne  left  the  island,  through 
fear  of  the  Danes,  taking  with  them  the  relics  of  the  saint,  which  found 
a  final  resting-place  at  Durham  (comp.  pp.  418,  422).  Visitors  will  re- 
member the  description  of  Lindisfarne  in  'Marmion''  and  the  fate  of  the 
nun  Constance.  The  ruins  belong  to  the  Priory  Church.,  which  was  erected 
towards  the  close  of  the  11th  cent.,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  church  and  in 
imitation  of  Durham  Cathedral.     The  ruined  CastU  dates  from  about  150(). 

333 Y2  M'  Scremerston ;  335  M.  Tweedmouth  Junction  (Union 
Hotel),  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tweed.  The  train  then  crosses  the 
Tweed  by  a  fine  viaduct,  720  yds.  long  and  126  ft.  above  the  water. 

3351/2  M.  Berwick-on-Tweed  (King's  Arms;  Red  Lion;  Lyle's 
Temperance ;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  an  old  town  with  13,370 
inhab.,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tweed,  was  for  ages  a  constant  object  of 
contention  between  England  and  Scotland,  while  it  is  still  regarded 
as  a  neutral  county,  belonging  officially  to  neither  of  these  coun- 
tries. Parts  of  the  old  walls,  with  a  tower  and  gateways,  still  remain. 

The  suburb  of  Spittal  (Roxburgh)  is  frequented  for  sea-bathing.  — 
The  Tweed,  like  the  Tyne  (p.  422),  is  famous  for  its  salmon,  and  about 
150  tons  of  this  fish  are  annually  sent  off  to  London  and  elsewhere. 

From  Berwick  to  Edinburgh,  see  E.  63b.  —  Branch-lines  also  run  from 
Berwick  to  Jedburgh  (p.  465),  Kelso  (p.  465).  and  Melrose  (p.  466). 


52.  From  Carlisle  to  Newcastle. 

66  M.  Railway  in  2V4-23/4  hrs.  (fares  8s.  Id.,  5s. ;  return  IQs.  Id.,  %s.  6(7.). 

Carlisle,  see  p.  382.  —  5  M.  W ether al ,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Eden,  with  a  ruined  priory.  Opposite  (bridge  ^/id.-  ferry  Id.)  is 
Corby  Hall,  a  modernized  baronial  mansion,  containing  a  fine  art- 
collection.  The  beautiful  walks  in  Corby  Woods,  praised  by  David 
Hume,  are  open  to  visitors  on  "Wed.  —  15'/2  ^^-  ^airorth  (Inn). 

■"Naworth  Castle,  the  fine  baronial  residence  of  the  Howards,  about 
V2  M.  to  the  N.,  is  most  intimately  associated  with  'Belted  Will  Howard', 
Lord  Warden  of  the  Marches  in  the  first  half  of  the  17th  cent.,  who  is 
described  in  Scott's  'Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel'.  The  castle  contains  ancient 
armour,  tapestry,  and  portraits  (visitors  usually  admitted,  10-1  or  2-5).  — 
About  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  Naworth  Castle  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of 
Lanercost  Priory,  an  Augustine  foundation  of  the  12th  century.  The  nave 
of  the  priory-church  has  been  restored,  and  is  used  as  the  parish-church. 

20 V2  M.  Gilsland  (Station  Inn,  plain),  or  Rosehill,  is  the  station 
for  Gilsland  Spa  {Shaws  Hotel,  pens.  4d\-8s.  6d. ;  Orchard  House, 
between  the  village  and  the  Spa),  pleasantly  situated  II/4  M.  to 
the  N.  (omn.  6c?.).  Its  sulphur-springs  and  the  pretty  scenery 
attract  visitors  in  search  of  a  quiet  watering-place. 

Sir  WalttT  Scott  has  immortalized  the  disti-ict  in  'Guy  Mannering". 
A  cottage  in  the  village  is  said  to  occupy  the  .spot  of  the  Mumps  Ha, 
in  which  Dandie  Dinmont  met  Meg  Blerrilies.  —  In  the  wooded  'Valleii 
of  the  Jrthing^  in  which  the  sulphur-well  lies,  are  pointed  out  the  'Pop- 
ping Stone',  where  Sir  Walter  Scott  is  said  to  have  proposed  to  Miss 
Charpentier,  and  the  'Kissing  Bush",  where  he  sealed  the  compact! 


426   Route  52.  HEXHAM. 

At  Birdosteald,  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Spa,  are  abundant  remains  of 
a  station  on  the  Roman  Wall,  which  ran  across  the  N.  of  England  (see 
p.  3S3).  The  walk  may  be  extended  to  (2  M.)  Coome  Crags.  The 
archaeologist  will  also  find  much  to  interest  him  in  following  the  line  of  the 
Roman  wall  from  this  point  eastwards  to  (17  M.)  Chollerford  (*George). 
—  A  four-horse  coach  plies  frequently  from  the  Shaws  Hotel  to  Lanercost 
Priory  (6V2  M.;  p.  425),  Naworth  Castle  (p.  425;  71/2  M.),  the  Northumler- 
land  Lakes  (12  M.),  the  Roman  station  at  Housesteads  (13  M.),  and  various  other 
points  in  this  interesting  but  comparatively  unfrequented  district. 

26  M.  Haltwhistle  (Crown)  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (13  M.) 
Alston  (960  ft.),  on  the  slopes  of  the  Pennine  Hills,  said  to  be  the 
highest  market-town  in  England.  —  Featherstonehaugh,  Blenkinsop 
Tower,  and  Thirlwall  Castle  may  be  visited  from  Haltwhistle. 

31  M.  Bardon  Mill  is  the  nearest  station  to  the  pretty  little 
Northumberland  Lakes,  31/2  ^I-  to  ^^^  ^« 

35  M.  Haydon  Bridge  lies  6  M.  to  the  S.  of  Housesteads ,  with 
the  most  complete  remains  of  the  Roman  Wall  (comp.  pp.  383,  425). 

42  M.  Hexham  (Royal,  E.  &  A.  2^.  6c/.,  B.  2s.  ■  Grey  Bull;  Tyne- 
dale  Hydropathic),  an  ancient  town  with  6000  inhab.  and  see  of  a 
R.  C.  bishop,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tyne,  has  a  fine  *  Abbey  Church, 
an  excellent  example  of  E.E.,  dating  from  the  12th  century. 

The  first  church  on  this  site  was  built  by  St.  Wilfrid  in  676,  and 
from  680  to  821  Hexham  was  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  afterwards  united 
with  Lindisfarne,  and  now  included  in  the  see  of  Durham  (comp.  p.  418). 
The  nave  of  the  present  church  was  destroyed  at  the  end  of  the  13th 
cent.,  and  the  Saxon  '^ Crypt  of  St.  "Wilfrid  has  been  discovered  below  its 
site.  The  'Choir  is  separated  from  the  Transept  by  a  carved  Rood  Screen 
of  about  1500.  The  Shrine  of  Prior  Richard  and  other  monuments  deserve 
attention.  —  The  Refectory  and  a  Norman  Gateway  are  also  preserved. 

In  1464  the  Yorkists  defeated  the  Lancastrians  in  an  important  battle  at 
Hexham.  —  Branch-lines  run  from  Hexham  to  Allendale  on  the  S.  and  to 
Chollerford  (see  above)  and  Reedsmouth  (Riccarton,  Rothbury,  Morpeth)  on 
the  N. 

Near  (45  M.)  Corbridge  are  the  ruins  oiDilston  Castle  and  the  Ro- 
man camp  of  Corchester  or  Corstopitum.  The  train  now  follows  closely 
the  course  of  the  Tyne.  To  the  left,  at  (521/2  ^1-)  Prudhoe,  are  the 
ivy-clad  ruins  of  its  castle.  At  (55  M.)  Wylam  George  Stephenson 
was  born  in  1781,  and  here  the  first  working  locomotive  was  con- 
structed by  William  Hedley  in  1812.  63  M.  Scotswood,  so  named 
from  the  camp  of  the  Scottish  army  in  the  Civil  War. 

66  M.  Newcastle,  see  p.  422. 

53.  From  York  to  Scarborough  and  Whitby. 

KoRTH  Eastern  Railway  to  (42  'hi.)  Scarhoroitgh  in  l-l'/ahr.  (fares  5s. 
Id.,  3«.  Qd.);  to  (56  M.)  Whitby  in  2-23/4  hrs.  (75.  6c?.,  4s.  %d.). 

York,  see  p.  413.  Near  (15  M.)  Kirkham  Abbey,  with  its  ivy- 
clad  ruins,  we  reach  the  pretty,  well-wooded  valley  of  the  Der- 
xcent.  —  About  31/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  (16  M.)  Castle  Howard  (Ho- 
tel, 3/4  M.  from  the  park)  is  Castle  Howard,  the  seat  of  the  Earl 
of  Carlisle,  containing  a  beautiful  chapel  and  a  fine  collection  of 
paintings  (Velazquez,  Titian,  Rubens,  Carracci,  Reynolds,  Clouet), 


SCAKBOROUGH.  53.  Route.     427 

sculptures,  bronzes,  tapestry,  and  old  glass  and  china.    The  house 
and  *Park  are  open  daily  (11-1  &  2-5). 

21  .M.  JS-Siltonf Talbot;  George;  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  an  ancient 
town  of  4900  inhab.,  with  large  racing-stables  and  an  old  priory- 
church,  is  the  junction  of  the  picturesque  direct  line  to  Whitby 
(p.  428)  via  Pickering.  Other  lines  run  N.  to  (24  M.)  Pilmoor 
Junction  (p.  416),  and  S.  to  (20  M.)  Driffield  (p.  432).  —  39  M. 
Seomer  Junction,  for  Filey  (p.  428). 

42  M.  Scarborough..  —  Hotels.  On  the  South  Cliff:  Grand,  with 
300  beds;  Crown,  Esplanade,  refurnished  in  1897;  Prince  of  Wales,  R.  <fe 
A.  4s.  6rf.,  B.  35.,  D.  OS.;  Cambridge,  near  the  Valley  Bridge,  at  some 
distance  from  the  sea,  pens.  10.<.,  R.  extra.  —  On  the  North  Cliff  (less 
expensive):  Queen,  Alexandra,  pens.  9s. -10s.  6c?.  —  In  the  Town:  Pavi- 
lion, adjoining  the  station,  R.  &  A.  4s..  B.  ?s.,  D.  5s.;  Rotal,  corner 
of  St.  Nicholas  St.;  Victoria,  pens.  7s.  6(?. ;  Castle,  Talbot,  Queen  St.; 
Station,  small:  Adelphi  Temperance,  Westborough.  —  Several  of  the 
hotels  are  closed  in  winter,  and  the  rates  of  the  others  are  lowered.  — 
Private  Hotels  (7-lOs.  a  day),  Boarding  Houses,  and  Lodgings  abound. 

Cab  for  1-3  pers.  Is.  per  mile,  2s.  6d.  per  hr. ;  with  two  horses  Is.  6rf. 
and  3s.  dd.;  double  fares  between  11.30  p.m.  and  6  a.  m.;  for  each  package 
carried  outside  2d. 

Steamers  ply  during  summer  to  Filey,  Bridlington,  Whilby ,  etc.  — 
Boats  for  1-3  pers.  Is.  Qd.  per  hr.,  each  addit.  pers.  Qd. 

Scarborough,  the  most  popular  marine  resort  in  the  N.  of  Eng- 
land, with  a  resident  population  of  about  34,000,  is  finely  situated, 
in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  on  slopes  rising  from  the  sea  and 
terminated  on  the  N.  and  S.  by  abrupt  cliffs.  The  air  is  bracing  and 
the  beaches  are  good  for  bathing  (bathing-machine,  9d.),  but  the 
older  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  and  the  fashionable  quarters 
dull  and  formal.    In  the  season  Scarborough  is  very  crowded. 

The  most  prominent  object  is  the  lofty  promontory  (300  ft.), 
rising  above  the  harbour  and  surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  a  Castle 
(12th  cent.  ;  fine  view,  extending  on  the  S.  to  Flamborough  Head). 
Near  it  is  the  old  Church  of  St.  Mary,  consisting  of  the  nave  of  an 
original  late-Norman  and  E.E.  building,  the  ruins  of  which  still 
exist.  The  N.  Cliff  begins  near  the  castle.  The  N.  Bay  is  em- 
bellished with  gardens  and  has  a  Promenade  Pier  (Id.),  1000  ft. 
long.  The  Marine  Drive,  protected  by  a  sea-wall,  is  being  extended 
round  the  base  of  the  Castle  Hill  to  the  S.  bay. 

The  old  town  of  Scarborough  is  separated  from  the  fashionable 
quarters  of  the  S.  Cliff  by  the  Ramsdale  Valley,  a  deep  ravine 
laid  out  as  a  park  and  spanned  by  two  bridges.  The  Cliff  Bridge  (toll 
^/2d.),  nearest  the  sea,  is  414  ft.  long  and  leads  to  the  Spa  Gardens 
(adm.  6rf.),  occupying  the  side  of  the  cliffs  and  containing  two 
mineral  springs.  The  Spa  r.uildings  (day-ticket  9d.,  weekly  3s. 
6d.),  erected  at  a  cost  of  77,000 i.,  contain  a  theatre,  a  concert-hall, 
a  fine-art  gallery  (adm.  Od.),  a  restaurant,  etc.  (band  11-1  and 
5-7).  Close  to  and  partly  below  the  Cliff  Bridge  is  the  *Aquarium 
(adm.  is.y  Adjacent  is  a  Museum  (adm.  3(/.).  The  bench  of  the 
S.  bay  is  connected  with  the  top  of  the  cliffs  by  inclined  tramways. 


428     Route  53.  WHITBY. 

At  the  back  of  the  S.  Cliff  rises  Oliver's  Mt.  (600  ft.),  affording  a  good 
view  of  Scarborough  and  its  environs. 

About  8  M.  to  the  S.  of  Scarborough  is  the  small  sea-bathing 
place  "Filey  (Crescent ;  Crown),  3  M.  beyond  which  are  (11  M.)  Bridlington 
(Black  Lion)  and  Bridlington  Q,uay  (Alexandra;  Britannia),  another  pop- 
ular watering-place.  The  "Parish  Church  of  Bridlington  consists  of  the 
nave  of  a  fine  Augustine  priory-church  founded  early  in  the  12th  cent. 
(E.E.  to  Perp.);  fine  W.  window.  About  5  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Bridlington 
is  Flamborough  Head  (Ship  Inn),  a  bold  promontory,  with  perpendicular 
clift's,  450  ft.  high.  In  summer  a  coach  plies  between  Scarborough  and 
Bridlington  (fares  5s.,  return  8s.;  to  Filey  3s.  and  5s.).  Filey  and  Bridling- 
ton are  also  stations  on  the  line  from  Scarborough  to  Hull  (p.  432).  — 
Other  favourite  points  are  Everley^  Hackness,  Forge  Valley,  Ayton,  Wykeham^ 
and  Hayhurn  Wyke,  to  all  of  which  public  conveyances  ply  daily  in  the 
season  (fares  Is.  6d.-3s.).  A  good  cliff-walk  may  also  be  taken  to  (153,4  M.) 
Robin  Hood's  Bay  and  (6  M.)   Whithy  (comp.  below). 

From  Scarborough  to  Whitby,  22M.,  N.E.  Railway  in  11/4  hr. 
[fares  5^.  iOd.,  3s.  8d.).  The  line  skirts  the  coast,  affording  Yiews 
of  the  sea  to  the  right.  7  M.  Hayhurn  Wyke,  a  favourite  point  for 
excursions  from  Scarborough  ;  10  M.  Peak,  near  Peak  Beacon,  600  ft. 
ahove  the  sea.  —  A  little  farther  on  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  *Robin 
Hood's  Bay,  with  its  lofty  cliffs,  far  below  us  to  the  right.  —  151/4  M, 
Robin  Hood's  Bay  (Robin  Hood's  Bay  Hotel ;  King's  Head).  —  We 
then  reach  the  (22  M.)  West  Cliff  Station  at  Whitby,  V2  M.  from 
the  Royal  Hotel.  This  is  the  terminus  of  this  line,  but  a  cir- 
cuitous branch-line  goes  on  to  (2  M.)  Whitby  Toun  Station. 

Whitby.  —  Hotels.  *Rotai-,  West  Cliff,  with  sea-view,  R.  <fe  A.  from 
5s.,  pens.  il.  4«.  to  4Z.  10s.  per  week;  Crown,  Flowergate;  Angel,  near 
the  Town  Station,  commercial;  Railway  Station  Hotel,  commercial, 
R.  (fe  A.  2s.  Pd. ;  JOBLiNGS  Tempekance,  opposite  the  station,  unpretending. 

Cab  with  one  horse  Is.  per  mile,  with  two  horses  Is.  Qd. ;  for  the  first 
V*  hr.  is.,  each  addit.  V*  hr.  6c?.,  with  two  horses  Is.  Qd.  and  dd. 

Boat  l-2s.  per  hr.,  according  to  size. 

Whitby,  a  small  town  and  watering-place,  is  situated  on  both 
banks  of  the  Esk,  the  valley  of  which  is  here  bordered  by  lofty 
cliffs.  As  seen  from  either  the  E.  or  W.  cliff,  the  town  looks  very 
picturesque,  with  its  crowd  of  red-tiled  houses,  clustering  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  and  climbing  the  sides  of  the  cliff. 

Whitby  originated  in  a  priory  founded  here  by  St.  Hilda  in  the  7th 
cent. ,  and  its  development  was  aided  in  Elizabethan  days  by  the  dis- 
covery of  alum -mines  in  the  neighbourhood.  Ship- building  was  also 
carried  on  here  with  great  success  for  a  time,  and  Capt.  Cook  (1728-79), 
who  was  a  Whitby  apprentice,  made  one  of  his  voyages  round  the  globe 
in  a  Whitby  vessel.  His  house  in  Grape  Lane,  off  Church  St.,  is  still 
standing.  At  present  the  main  industries  are  the  manufacture  of  Jet 
Ornaments  and  the  Herring  Fishery. 

The  river  is  crossed  by  a  Swing  Bridge,  and  is  formed  into  a  kind 
of  harbour  by  two  Piers.  On  the  W.  Pier,  which  commands  a  good 
view  of  the  town  and  abbey,  is  a  Museum  (adm.  6d.),  containing 
a  model  of  Cook's  ship  (see  above)  and  other  interesting  relics. 

We  now  cross  the  bridge  and  proceed  to  the  left  through  Church 
St.,  from  the  end  of  which  a  flight  of  199  steps  ascends  to  St.  Mary's 
Church,  where  some  traces  of  the  original  Norman  work  may  still  be 
distinguished.  —  A  little  to  the  right  lie  the  picturesque  ruins  of 


HARROGATE.  54.  Route.      429 

*Whitby  Abbey,  originally  founded  in  the  7th  cent.,  but  dating  in 
its  present  form  from  the  12- 14th  cent.  (adm.  3d.).  The  poet 
Caedmon  was  a  monk  in  Whitby  Abbey.  To  the  S.W.,  on  the  site 
of  the  abbot's  lodging,  is  Whitby  Manor  House,  with  a  hall  of  the 
17th  cent,  (dismantled)  ;  the  rest  of  the  building  has  been  restored. 

On  the  W.  Cliff,  in  front  of  the  lloyal  Hotel,  are  the  West  Cliff 
Grounds  (adm.  6(i.;  *View),  with  a  Pacilion,  containing  a  theatre, 
restaurant,  etc.    A  band  plays  here  in  the  forenoon  and  evening. 

The  Environs  of  Whitby  a(Ti)rd  many  pleasant  excursions.  Among 
the  favourite  points  are  Robin  Hoods  Bay  (p.  428;  fine  walk  along  the 
clitYs;  7  M)i  Cockshot  Mill,  2  M.  to  the  W.;  Sandsend,  3  M.  to  the  N.  (by 
the  sands);  and  Mulyrave  Castle  (5  M.  to  the  W.),  the  seat  of  the  Slarquis 
of  Xormanby,  with  fine  grounds  and  the  remains  of  an  old  castle. 

FiioM  Whitby  tu  Rkdcar,  30V2  M.,  railway  in  ca.  2  hrs.  (fares  4i.  id., 
2s.  6V2(Z.).    The  line  follows  the  coast  mirthwards  via  Rnnswick  and  Staithes, 

—  2oVj  M.  Saltburn  (Zetland;  Alexandra;  Gilbertons  Temperance),  a  fashion- 
able seaside-resort.  30Vj  M.  Redcar  (Coatham;  Stoan),  also  a  seaside-resort, 
whence  the  line  goes  on  to  Middlesbrough  (p.  417)  and  Stockton  (p.  417). 

—  From  Saltburn  a  short  branch  runs  to  (8  M.)  Guisborough,  with  the 
remains  of  a  Priori/,  founded  in  1119. 

From  Whitby  to  Picton,  see  p.  417 ;  to  Malion,  see  p.  427. 

54,  From  Leeds  to  Harrogate,  Eipon,  and  Thirsk. 

NoKTH  Eastern  Railway  to  (18  M.)  Harrogate  in  3/4-1  br.  (fares  25. 
6d.,  U.  Qd.);  to  (30  M.)  Ripon  in  1-13/4  hr.  (fares  4s.,  2i.  6d.);  to  (39  M.) 
Thirsk  in  1V4-2V4  hrs.  (fares  55.  2d.,  Ss.  21/2^.). 

Leeds,  see  p.  409.  Passing  some  small  stations,  we  reach 
(91/2  ^I-)  Arthington  Junction,  whence  a  branch  diverges  on  the 
left  to  Otley  and  llkley  (p.  410).  About  4  M.  to  the  E.  is  Harewood 
House,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Harewood,  containing  a  picture-gal- 
lery and  a  valuable  collection  of  china  (open  on  Thurs.).  The 
church  at  Harewood  contains  the  tomb  of  Chief  Justice  Gascoigne, 
who  is  said  to  have  committed  Prince  Hal  to  prison. 

18M.  Harrogate.  —  Hotels.  In  High  Harrogate:  'Queen,  Granby, 
Prince  of  Wales,  three  large  houses  facing  the  Stray,  board  9*.  Gd., 
R.  &,  A.  extra;  Royal,  Empress,  also  facing  the  Stray,  somewhat  less  ex- 
pensive; Clarendon;  Gascoigne's,  cummercial.  —  In  Low  Harrogate  (near 
the  springs) :  Prospect  Hotel  ,  well  situated,  near  the  station,  pens.  lis. 
6c?.;  Crown,  pens.  12s.;  White  Hart,  similar  charges;  Wellington; 
Adelphi;  George;  Alexandra,  pens.  8s.;  Somerset  House,  pens,  from 
7s.;  Commercial,  pens.  7s.  Qd.;  North  Eastern  Station,  convenient  for 
passing  travellers;  Claremont  Temperance.  —  Hydropathics.  Imperial; 
Harrogate;  Harlow  Manor;  Cairn;  <S/>(t.  —  Passing  travellers,  especially  at 
the  larger  hotels,  should  come  to  distinct  understanding  beforehand  as  to 
prices,  otherwise  no  allowance  may  be  made  for  meals  taken  outside  the 
hotel.  The  custom  of  dressing  for  dinner  prevails  at  some  of  the  most 
fashionable  hotels.  —  Boarding  Housea  and  Lodgings  abound. 

Baths.  Massage  Douche  3s.  Qd. .  Sulphur  2<. -is.  Gd,  Xeedle  1*.  6f?., 
Titrkish2s.  Gd.,  Plunge  Is. -Is.  6(f . ;  etc.  —  Mineral  Water.  6rf.  per  day  at 
the  Pump  Rooms ;  Magnesia   Kater^  id.  per  glass. 

Cab  from  the  station  to  any  of  the  hotels,  1-2  pers.  Is.,  3-4per3.  Is.  G</. 

Coaches  daily  to  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity. 

Harrogate  (450  ft.  above  the  sea),  in  a  high  and  bracing  situ- 
ation among  the  Yorkshire   moors ,   ranks  with  Bath  and  Kuxton 


430     Route  54.  RIPON.  From  Leeds 

among  the  three  chief  inland  watering-places  of  England.  It  con- 
sists of  two  parts,  High  and  Low  Harrogate ,  the  former  to  the  left 
(E.)  of  the  station,  the  latter  to  the  right.  It  is  perhaps  the 
most  aristocratic  of  all  the  great  English  spas ,  and  the  one  least 
exposed  to  the  inroads  of  excursionists.  The  High  Harrogate  hotels 
face  the  Stray,  a  common  200  acres  in  extent.  The  Wells  for  which 
Harrogate  is  visited  are  chiefly  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town  ,  and 
have  been  known  for  nearly  300  years. 

Tliey  include  the  cliief  sulpLur- springs  of  England,  and  also  clialybeate 
springs  not  unlike  those  of  Kissingen  and  Homburg,  though  less  pleasant 
to  drink  owing  to  the  absence  of  carbonic  acid.  The  Sulphur  Springs,  of 
which  there  are  two  strong  (Old  and  Montpellier)  and  seventeen  mild,  are 
efficacious  in  most  affections  of  the  liver,  jaundice,  gout,  rheumatism, 
and  diseases  of  the  skin.  The  six  Chalybeate  Springs  are  tonic  and  stim- 
ulant. The  so-called  Bog  Springs,  34  in  number,  rise  in  a  small  piece  of 
boggy  ground,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  sulphur-springs,  and  though 
close  together  no  two  are  exactly  alike.  !Near  the  springs  are  various 
Pump  Rooms,  Baths,  and  other  adjuncts  of  a  fashionable  spa.  The  sumptuous 
New  Baths,  opened  in  1897,  cost  nearly  lOO.OOCi/.  —  Smollett  gives  an  ac- 
count of  Harrogate  a  century  ago  in  'Humphrey  Clinker". 

About  1  M.  to  the  W.  is  Harlow  Hill  (600  ft.),  with  its  tower  (view). 
Other  favourite  points  for  excursions  are  Knaresboroiigh  (p.  416),  3  M.  to 
the  ]S\E.  of  High  Harrogate;  Harewood  (p.  429),  8  M.  to  the  S.;  Plumjnon 
Park  (adm.  M.),  4  M.  to  the  E.-,  Almes  Clitf,  5'/2  M.  to  the  S.W.-,  Ripon  and 
Fountains  Abbeu  (see  p.  431);  and  Bolton  Abbey  (p.  411),  16  M.  to  the  W.  — 
A  line  runs  from  Harrogate  up  Xidderdale,  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Nidd,  to  (14V2  M.)  Paleley  Bridge  (King's  Arms).  On  the  Nidd,  below  Har- 
rogate, are  Ribston,  famous  for  its  pippins,  and  Cowthorpe  with  a  gigantic 
oak,  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  England.  —  From  Harrogate  to  York,  see  p.  416. 

30  M.  Kipon  (Unicorn,  R.  &  A.  4s.;  Crou-n;  Black  Bull;  Royal 
Oak),  a  quaint  little  country -town  with  7500  inhab.,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Ure,  2/4  M.  from  the  station  (omn.  Gd.). 

A  monastery  was  founded  at  Ripon  in  the  7th  cent.,  and  was  rebuilt 
by  St.  Wilfrid  about  670.  In  678  the  see  of  a  bishop  was  fixed  here, 
but  it  lapsed  with  the  death  of  its  first  holder  and  was  not  revived  till 
1836.  From  time  immemorial  a  horn  has  been  sounded  nightly,  at  9  o'clock, 
before  the  house  of  the  'Wakeman',   or  Mayor,   and  at  the  market-cross. 

The  Cathedral,  which  does  not  occupy  the  same  site  as  the 
original  church  (see  above),  is  approached  from  the  market-place  by 
the  Kirk  Gate.  The  transepts  and  part  of  the  choir  are  in  the  Transi- 
tion style  (1154-81),  the  W.  Front  is  E.E.  (1215-55),  the  E.  end 
of  the  choir  is  Dec.  (1288-1300),  and  the  nave,  part  of  the  S.  side 
of  the  choir,  and  the  Central  Tower  are  Perp.  (1460-1520).  The 
Saxon  Crypt  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  a  second  church  as- 
cribed to  St.  Wilfrid.  The  whole  church  has  been  restored  by  Scott. 
It  is  one  of  the  smaller  English  cathedrals,  being  only  270  ft.  iu 
length  ;  but  it  is  87  wide  across  the  nave  and  aisles.  The  daily  ser- 
vices are  at  10.15  a.m.  and  4.15  p.m.  Adm.  to  the  choir  and  crypt  Qd. 

The  Nave,  which  has  no  triforium,  is  Perp.,  except  the  E.E.  bays 
opening  into  the  W.  Towers.  Two  of  the  original  arches  (E.  and  S.)  be- 
low the  central  tower  have  been  changed  from  Norman  to  Perp.,  but  the 
other  two  are  still  circular,  though  the  lofty  shafting  run  up  at  the  W. 
arch  shows  that  the  intention  was  to  change  them  all.  —  The  Tkaxsepts 
retain  much   of  the  Transition   work   of  Archbishop   Roger,  the  founder 


to  Thirsk.  RIPON.  54.  Route.     431 

of  the  church.  —  The  Choik,  in  which  the  Transition  Norman,  the  Dec, 
and  the  I'erp.  portions  are  readily  distinguishable,  is  separated  from  the 
nave  by  a  good  Ferp.  Screen.  The  triforiuiu-openings  have  been  glazed, 
so  that  there  are  three  rows  of  windows  at  different  levels.  The  Dec.  E. 
window  is  line,  though  its  modern  glass  is  poor.  The  beautiful  carving 
on  the  stalls  is  of  the  15th  century. 

To  the  S.  of  the  choir  are  the  Chapter  House  and  Vestry,  which 
are  believed  to  have  together  formed  a  small  Norman  church.  Below 
them  is  a  Norman  crypt.  Above  them  is  the  Lady  Loft,  a  chapel  of  the 
Dec.  period,  built  against  the  outside  wall  of  the  cathedral. 

From  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Nave  we  descend  to  the  '-Ckvi't,  which 
is  one  of  the  only  two  Saxnn  crypts  in  Kngland,  both  built  in  the  7tli 
cent,  by  St.  Wilfrid  (comp.  p.  42 JJ.  A  long  narrow  passage  leads  to  a 
small  vaulted  chamber,  with  a  curious  opening  or  hole  called  'St.  Wilfrid's 
Needle\  which  was  used,  it  is  said,  as  a  test  of  chastity,  the  pure  only 
being  able  to  be  drawn  through  it. 

Ill  Stanimergate  is  the  iiitsresting  Hospital  of  St.  Mary  Magda- 
len, founded  in  the  12th  cent,  for  lepers ;  in  High  St.  is  the  Mai- 
son  Dieu,  a  hospital  of  the  15th  cent;  and  in  Bondgate  is  St. 
Johns  Chapel.  The  Museum  (adm.  2c?.),  in  Park  St.,  chiefly  con- 
tains objects  of  natural  history. 

Fkom  Ripon  to  Fountains  Abbey,  3  M.  (c>rr.  3s.).  Walkers  leave 
the  town  by  the  Westgate,  opposite  theUnicorn  Hotel,  and  after  a  few  yards 
diverge  to  the  left  through  Park  St.,  passing  the  Museum.  At  the  fork 
(linger-post)  we  again  keep  to  the  left.  After  about  i  M.  we  cross  a  bridge 
over  the  Laver  ^  and  take  the  road  most  to  the  right.  About  3  min. 
farther  on,  a  wicket  on  the  left  opens  on  a  field-path,  which  cuts  off  1/3  M. 
and  emerges  in  the  middle  of  Htudley  Village^  where  we  turn  to  the 
left,  soon  reaching  the  outer  gates  of  Studley  Royal,  the  seat  of  the 
Marquis  of  Ripon.  Passing  through  the  gates  we  ascend  the  long 
avenue,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  conspicuous  Church,  built  by  the 
Marquis  of  Ripon  in  1876.  After  about  3/4  M.,  before  reaching  the 
church,  we  turn  to  the  left,  under  the  beech-trees  (Spanish  chestnuts  and 
other  timber  also  line),  pass  a  lake,  and  arrive  at  the  (V4  M.)  gate  of  the 
pleasure-grounds  (I5.).  The  grounds,  through  which  runs  the  Skell,  are 
elaborately  laid  out,  with  trimmed  hedges,  parterres,  ponds,  statuary, 
and  small  temples.  After  passing  various  'Views"  (sign-posts)  we  cross 
the  stream  by  a  rustic  bridge,  bend  back  along  the  Crescent  and  Moon 
I'onds,  and  ascend  to  the  Octagon  Tower.  We  then  turn  to  the  right  and 
proceed  in  the  original  direction  to  '•Anne  Boleyn's  Seat\  an  arbour  affording 
a  sudden  *View  of  Fountains  Abbey,  which  lies  below,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Skell.  On  the  way  down  to  it  we  pass  Robin  Ilooirs  Well, 
where  the  'Curtal  Friar'  soundly  thrashed  that  noble  outlaw  and  threw 
him  into  the  river.  —  'Fountains  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  foundation  of  the 
14th  cent.,  is  at  once  the  most  extensive  and  the  most  pictures<iue  monastic 
ruin  in  England-,  and  nowhere  else  in  the  country  can  the  plan  of  the 
secular  buildings  be  so  clearly  traced.  The  '^Church  is  in  the  Transition 
Norman  and  E.E.  styles,  with  a  Perp.  Tower  and  an  additional  transept 
at  the  E.  end  resembling  the  'Nine  Altars'  of  Durham  (p.  4'iO).  The 
Monastic  Buildings  lie  to  the  S.,  and  include  the  Greal  Cloister  (300  ft. 
long),  the  ChajHer  House,  the  Refeclovy,  the  Buttery,  the  Fratry,  and  tlie 
Kitchen.  A  little  to  the  E.  of  these  are  the  remains  of  the  Infirmary  (V) 
and  the  foundations  of  the  Abbot's  Bouse.  —  A  little  to  the  W.  (beyond 
the  bridge  and  the  gate)  is  J'ounlains  Hall,  an  interesting  Jacobean  man- 
sion.    We  then  return  by  the  drive  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Skell. 

Other  points  of  interest  are  Maikenfield  Hall,  3V-.'  M.  to  the  S.W. ;  Hack- 
fall  Woods  (adm.  6c?.),  7  M.  to  the  N.W.  ;  and  the  Brimham  Rocks. 

From  (33  M.)  Melmerby  branch-lines  diverge  to  (11  M.)  North- 
allerton (p.  417)  and  (77>  M.)  Masham  (41/2  M.  from  Jervaulx. 
Abbey,  p.  417).  —  39  M.  Thirsk  (p.  417). 


432 


55.   From  York  to  Beverley  and  Hull. 

North  Eastern  Railway  to  (3i  M.)  Beverley  in  IV4-IV2  lir.  (45.  6^., 
25.  9V2d.);  to  (41V2  M.)  Hull  in  i^i-P/t  tr.  (5s.  Id.,  3s.  Qd.}.  —  The  quickest 
route  to  (39  M.)  Hull  is  via  Selby  (p.  413). 

York,  see  p.  413.  To  the  left  runs  the  Scarborough  line  (R.  53). 
9  M.  Stamford  Bridge  was  the  scene  of  the  defeat  of  Hardrada  of 
Norway  by  Harold  in  1066.  —  16  M.  Pocklington  (Feathers),  with 
an  E.  E.  church  with  a  Perp.  tower.  —  23  M.  Market  Weighton 
(Loudesborough  Arms)  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Selby  (p.  413) 
and  to  (14  M.)  Driffield  and  (49  M.)  Bridlington  (p.  427).  We  now 
enter  the  undulating  chalk-district  known  as  the  Wolds. 

34  M.  Beverley  (*Beverley  Arms;  King's  Arms;  Holderness; 
Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  a  quiet  town,  the  see  of  a  R.  C.  bishop,  with 
ll,500inhab.,  surpasses  all  English  towns  of  its  size  in  possessing 
two  fine  churches  of  all  but  the  first  rank. 

*Beverlby  Minster  (334  ft.  long,  64  ft.  wide),  which  occupies 
the  site  of  a  much  earlier  church  to  the  N.  of  the  town  ,  dates 
mainly  from  the  13-14th  centuries.  The  Perp.  West  Facade  re- 
sembles that  of  York  Minster. 

Interior.  Among  tlie  most  noticeable  points  in  tlie  Nave,  vphicli  is 
in  the  late-Dec.  style  (ca.  1350),  are  the  triforium- arcade,  the  musical 
angels  on  the  piers,  the  tabernacle- work  below  the  W.  window,  and  the 
'Maiden's  Tomb'  (below  the  15th  bay  from  the  W.  on  the  S.  side). 
—  The  E.E.  Choir  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  good  modern 
screen,  and  contains  some  fine  old  stalls.  Between  the  choir  and  the  N.E. 
Transept  is  the  beautiful  'Percy  Shrine  (1365),  a  good  view  of  which  is  ob- 
tained from  the  top  of  the  reredos.  The  details  of  the  choir  repay  close 
inspection.  —  The  top  of  the  W.  Towers  (200  ft.)  affords  an  extensive  view. 

*St.  Maey"s  Church,  to  the  S..  a  little  beyond  the  market- 
place, is  another  unusually  fine  cruciform  church,  mainly  in  the 
Dec.  and  Perp.  styles,  though  possessing  features  of  earlier  date. 

Among  the  special  points  of  interest  are  the  '  W.  Front,  the  S.  Porch 
(with  a  Norman  arch  on  the  inside),  the  Flemish  Chapel  (with  flamboyant 
tracery),  the  panelled  Ceiling  of  the  chancel,  and  the  Sculptural  Decora- 
tion throughout  the  church. 

A  short  way  beyond  St.  Mary's  is  the  North  Bar,  dating  from 
the  14th  cent.,  and  formerly  one  of  the  gates  of  the  town.  Just 
outside  it  is  a  picturesque  half-timbered  house. 

At  Beverley  the  line  from  York  joins  the  line  from  Hull  to  Scarborough, 
which  runs  northwards  via  (11  M.)  Driffield  (Red  Lion),  an  agricultural 
town  with  6000  inhab.,  Bridlington  (p.  427),  Filey  (p.  427),  and  Seamer 
Junction  (p.  427). 

381/2  M.  Cottingham ,  a  favourite  residence  of  Hull  merchants. 
The  church  contains  a  fine  brass  (14th  cent.). 

411/2^1'  Hull.  —  Hotels.  Imperial,  near  the  N.E.  Station  5  Royal  Sta- 
tion, at  the  N.E.  Station,  E.  &  A.  4s.;  Cross  Kets;  Vittoeia,  at  the 
Pier;  George;  Royal;  Central  Temperance.  —  Railway  Refreshml.  Rooms. 

Railway  Stations.  Besides  the  Paragon  Station  of  the  N.E.R. ,  near 
the  centre  of  the  town ,  and  the  Cannon  St.  Station  of  the  Hull  and 
Barnsley  line,  to  the  W..  there  is  a  Booking  Office  of  the  Manchester, 
Sheflield,  &.  Lincolnshire  Railway  at  the  Corporation  Pier,  whence  a  Steam 


HULL.  55.  Route.     433 

Ferry  conveys  passengers  to  the  Railway  Terminus  in  Aew  Holland,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Ilumher. 

Steamers  ply  regularly  from  Hull  to  Bergen,  Christianio.  Copenhagen, 
Aniuerp,  Itotterdam,  Haniburg.  Bremen^  New  York,  Rouen,  Aberdeen,  Dundee, 
Leith,  Grimshy,  London,  and  numerous  other  British  and  foreign  ports. 

United  States  Consul,  R.  L.  Milkr,  Eaq.,  Waverley  House,  Wavcrley  St. 

Hull  or  Kingston-upon-Hull,  a  town  on  the  Humher  estuary  with 
about  350,000  inhab.,  is  the  chief  emporium  of  the  trade  between 
England  and  Northern  Europe,  and  the  headquarters  of  a  deep-sea 
lishing  fleet  of  500  boats. 

The  followingwalk  (2-3  hrs.)  passes  mostof  the  points  of  interest. 
Leaving  the  Paragon  Station,  we  walk  through  Paragon  St.  and  Water- 
works St.,  pass  the  Dock  Office  and  the  Wilberforce  Column,  and 
cross  the  Whitefnargate  Bridge,  which  affords  a  view  (right)  of  the 
Docks.  At  the  end  of  Whitefriargate,  Trinity  House  Lane,  with  the 
Trinity  House  (established  in  1369),  leads  to  the  right  to  *Trinity 
Church,  a  large  Dec.  and  Perp.  edifice,  restored  by  Scott(see  p.  liii). 

Li  tlic  Market  Place,  in  front  of  the  church,  is  an  equestrian 
Statue  of  William  HI.,  by  Scheemaker.  erected  in  1734.  We  then 
descend  to  the  right  through  Queen  St.  to  the  Corporation  Pier, 
which  affords  a  good  view  of  the  traffic  in  the  Humber  and  of  the 
Hat  coast  of  Lincolnshire  on  the  opposite  side  (ferry,  see  above). 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  to  Humber  St.,  turn  to  the  right,  and 
soon  reach  the  quaint  High  St.  In  the  latter,  immediately  to  the 
right,  is  the  old  De  la  Pole  Residence,  with  curious  carvings.  Near 
the  middle  of  the  street,  to  the  left,  is  the  King's  Head,  once  an 
inn  with  an  overhanging  story;  and  at  the  end  of  the  street,  to  the 
right  (No.  25),  is  the  red  brick  house  in  which  William  Wilberforce 
(1759-1833)  was  born.  Salthouse  Lane,  nearly  opposite,  leads  to  the 
large  Queen's  Dock.  Here  we  turn  sharply  to  the  left  into  Lowgate, 
in  which,  to  the  right,  stands  the  Town  Hall,  in  the  Italian  style. 
Opposite  is  the  Church  of  St.  Mary,  a  Perp.  edifice,  restored  by  Scott, 
with  the  side-walk  running  below  the  tower  (good  interior).  —  Silver 
St.,  at  the  end  of  Lowgate,  leads  back  to  Whitefriargate  (see  above). 

From  Hull  to  Gainsborough,  see  p.  368;  to  Lincoln,  see  R.  56.  —  Branch- 
lines  also  run  from  Hull  to  (15V2  M-)  Hornsea  (J/ere;  Sun)  and  to  (18  M.) 
Withernsea  (Queen's),  two  small  watering-places  on  the  German  Ocean. 

f^KOM  Hull  to  Barnslet,  56  31.,  railway  in  2-272  hrs.  (fares  Is.  Sd., 
is.  Sd.).  This  cross-country  line  runs  via  Jlowden  (p.  413)  and  Cudworth 
(p.  409). 

56.  From  Hull  to  Lincoln  and  Nottingham. 

75  M.  Railwav  in  3V4-6hrs.  (fares  iOs.  bd.,  6s.  6V2'/.)-  ^^^e  travel  by 
the  Cextkal  (Manchkstek,  Sheffield,  <fc  Linoolnsufre)  Kailwav  to  (42  31.) 
Lincoln  and  thence  to  (33  M.)  Nottingham  by  the  Midland  Railway.  Through 
carriages  are  attached  to  some  trains. 

Hull,  see  p.  432.  Taking  our  tickets  at  the  booking-office  on 
the  Corporation  Pier  (comp.  p.  432),  we  cross  the  Humber  by  a  steam 
ferry  to  (2  M.)  Neio  Holland,  the  starting-point  of  the  railway. 
The  line  traverses  the  flat  and  featureless  county  of  Lincoln.     At 

Baedeker  8  Great  Britain.   4th  Edit.  28 


434     Route  56.  LINCOLN.  From  Hull 

(6  M.)  Thornton  Abbey,  to  the  right,  is  a  picturesque  old  abhey.  — 
8'/2  M.  Vlceby,  junction  of  a  line  to  Great  Grimshy  and  Cleethorpcs. 

Great  Grimsby  (Royal;  Yarhorough;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms)  is  a  pros- 
perous seaport  and  fishing-town  (52,000  inhab.)  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Humber,  with  regular  steamer  communication  with  the  Continent  (p.  xx). 
—  Cleethorpes  (Dolphin:  Cliff;  Victoria;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms) ,  with 
4300  inhab.,  is  a  rising  watering-place. 

From  Great  Grimsby  a  line  runs  to  the  S.  to  Boston  (p.  437). 

13  M.  Barnetby  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Gainsborough  (p.  437} 
and  Doncaster  (p.  412).  —  38  M.  Market  Rasen  (White  Hart). 

42  M.  Lincoln.  —  Railway  Stations.  The  G.  If.  and  the  Midland  Rail- 
way  Stations,  near  each  other,  adjoin  the  Pligh  St.  —  Hotels.  Great  IS'^orth- 
EEN,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.  •,  'White  Hart,  near  the  Cathedral;  Saeaces"s  Head  ; 
Albion;  Spread  Eagle;  Knight's  Temperance.  —  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Lincoln,  the  county-town  of  Lincolnshire  and  the  see  of  a 
bishop,  with  about  41,500  inhab.,  is  finely  situated  on  a  hill  rising 
from  the  Witham,  in  the  midst  of  the  low  fen  district. 

Lincoln,  the  British  Lindcoit  and  the  Lindum  Colonia  (one  of  nine 
privileged  Coloniee)  of  the  Romans,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in 
Great  Britain,  and  rivals  Chester  in  the  interest  of  its  memorials  of  the 
past.  In  the  9th  cent.  Lincoln  and  Lincolnshire  were  occupied  by  the  Danes, 
who  have  left  traces  of  their  settlement  in  the  ending  by,  so  common  in 
local  names  in  this  shire.  Lincoln  was  accounted  the  fourth  city  of  the 
realm  at  the  time  of  the  Norman  Conquest,  and  William  I.  selected  it  as 
the  site  of  one  of  his  castles.  The  Castle  was  captured  by  King  Stephen 
in  1140,  by  the  Barons  in  1216,  and  by  the  Parliamentarians  in  1644.  Christ- 
ianity was  first  introduced  here  by  Paulinus  (p.  435)  in  the  7th  cent. ; 
but  the  bishopric  was  not  established  till  1073,  when  the  Mercian  see  was 
transferred  hither  from  Dorchester  (comp.  p.  220).  The  chief  industry  of 
Lincoln  is  the  manufacture  of  agricultural  implements,  and  it  carries  on 
a  considerable  trade  with  the  Midlands  by  means  of  the  Fossdyke  Canal, 
which  joins  the  Witham  and  the  Trent. 

Leaving  the  Midland  Railway  Station,  we  proceed  to  the  N.  along 
High  Street,  passing  the  modern  church  of  St.  Mark  on  the  left.  On 
the  opposite  side  (No.  333)  is  an  interesting  half-timbered  house, 
which  should  be  viewed  from  the  court-yard.  We  then  cross  the  G.  N. 
Railway  and  reach  St.  Mary-le -Wig ford ,  the  tower  of  which  is  a 
good  example  of  the  pre-Norman  style,  though  built  shortly  after 
the  Conquest.  The  E.E.  nave  and  chancel  date  from  about  1225, 
and  the  S.  aisle  is  modern.  In  front  of  the  church  stands  St.  Mary's 
Conduit,  constructed  in  the  time  of  Henry  YIIl.  (1509-47)  with 
fragments  of  an  old  monastery.  To  the  left,  farther  on,  are  the  ivy- 
clad  remains  of  St.  Benedict's  Church. 

We  may  here  diverge,  through  the  archway,  to  see  Brayford  Pool 
(boats  for  Jaire),  the  S.  bank  of  which  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Cathedral. 

We  now  reach  the  *High  Bridge,  an  ancient  structure,  with  a  row 
of  buildings  on  its  W.  side  (quaint,  Dutch-like  view  of  their  backs 
by  descending  the  steps  to  the  left).  In  front  is  the  *Stonebow, 
a  15th  cent,  gate-house,  the  upper  part  used  as  the  Guildhall. 

Just  beyond  the  Stonebow,  at  the  church  of  St.  Peter-at-Arches  (18th 
cent.),  we  may  diverge  to  the  right,  through  Silver  St.,  to  visit  St.  Swithins 
Church,  which  contains  a  Roman  altar,  discovered  in  1884. 

At  the  head  of  High  St.,  we  follow  the  narrow  Strait,  to  the 


S.^^uTrajtp;  ept     pi 


LljNiCtlLNJ  cmmwML 


"Wr  Doorwa\'s 


to  Nottingham.  LINCOLN.  56.  Route.     435 

right.  At  the  end  of  this,  to  the  left,  is  the  *  Jew's  House,  i»ne  of 
the  most  ancient  specimens  of  domestic  architecture  in  England 
(early  12th  cent.;  comp.  p.  xl}.  —  The  Strait  is  continued  by  the 
SxEEr  Hill,  halfway  up  which  is  a  platform  known  as  the  Mayor's 
Chair.  Near  the  top  of  the  hill,  to  the  right,  is  the  House  of  Aaron 
the  Jew,  with  a  Norman  window.  Opposite  is  the  Bishop's  Hostel, 
connected  with  the  Lincoln  Theological  School.  To  the  right,  far- 
ther on,  is  the  Excliequer  Gate  of  the  Minster  Yard  (p.  436).  In  the 
meantime,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  the  Castle  (adm.  2d.). 

The  Castle  Walls  enclose  an  area  of  6V2  acres,  laid  out  as  a  garden, 
and  contain  the  Assize  Courts  and  the  old  County  Prison  (disused).  To  reach 
the  Keep  (12  th  cent.)  we  turn  to  the  left  on  entering  and  pass  through  a 
gateway.  View  from  the  top  of  CohVs  Hall,  the  round  tower  to  the  S.  of 
the  entrance.  Just  inside  the  entrance-gateway,  to  the  right,  is  a  fine 
Oriel  Window,  brought  from  John  of  Gaunt's  Palace  (p.  437). 

We  now  continue  in  a  straight  direction  through  the  Bailgate, 
in  which,  in  the  cellar  of  Mr.  Alliss  House  (No.  27,  to  the  left; 
adm.  Is.),  are  the  highly-interesting  remains  of  a  Roman  Basilica. 

In  the  Westgate,  which  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Bailgate,  is 
ist.  Pauls  Church,  occupying  the  site  of  the  church  of  St.  Paulinus  (p.  434). 

Bailgate  ends  at  the  *Newport  Arch,  one  of  the  gates  of 
Lindum  Colonia  and  a  unique  specimen  of  a  Roman  city-gate  in 
England.  Its  date  is  placed  between  B.C.  50  and  A.D.  50.  —  We 
may  now  turn  to  the  right  and  pass  along  the  East  Bight  into  the 
Minster  Yard  (see  p.  -i36),  which  we  reach  on  its  N.  side. 

*Lincoln  Cathedral,  splendidly  crowning  the  hill  on  which  the 
city  is  built,  may  perhaps  claim  to  be  the  finest  church  in  Great 
Britain.  Other  cathedrals  may  equal  or  surpass  it  in  certain  points, 
but  in  the  combination  of  size,  delicacy  of  detail,  effectiveness  ot 
both  interior  and  exterior,  good  preservation,  and  grandeur  of  po- 
sition, it  has  probably  no  rival.  The  building  is  480  ft.  long  (in- 
ternal measurement),  80  ft.  wide,  220  ft.  across  the  AV.  transepts, 
and  82  ft.  high.  Daily  services,  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  Adm.  to  the 
choir  and  cloisters  6rf.,  to  the  tower  %d. 

History.  Of  the  original  cathedral,  built  at  the  end  of  the  11th 
cent.,  there  remains  the  lower  portion  of  the  W.  front  and  part  of  the 
lirst  bay  of  the  nave.  The  Norman  cathedral  was  injured  by  an  earth- 
quake in  1185,  and  its  restoration  was  at  once  undertaken  by  Bishop  Hugh 
('St.  Hugh  of  Lincoln*;  1186-1200),  who  linis^hed  the  Choir  and  the  E. 
Transepts,  the  earliest  piece  of  E.E.  work  of  known  date  (p.  xlii).  The 
W.  Transepts  and  Chapter  House  were  completed  soon  after,  and  the  Nave, 
including  the  W.  front,  by  about  1250.  The  Preshytery  and  Cloisters  fol- 
lowed in  the  same  cent.,  and  the  upper  story  of  the  Central  Tower,  the 
lower  part  of  which  dates  from  about  1240-50,  was  added  between  1300 
and  1320.  The  upper  parts  of  the  W.  towers  are  late-Dec.  (ca.  1380). 
The  Chapels  attached  to  the  Presbytery  are  Perp.  (15-16th  cent.). 

Exterior.  Among  the  most  nnteworthy  external  features  of  the  Cathed- 
ral are  its  line  'Central  and  TF.  Towers  (262  ft.  &  200  ft.  high);  the  'W.  Fa- 
gade,  which  is  imposing  in  spite  of  its  mixture  ot  styles  (p.  xxxix)  and 
the  fact  that  it  is  in  some  degree  a  mere  screen;  the  E.  Front,  somewhat 
marred  by  the  aisle-gables;  the  Galilee  Porch,  adjoining  the  S.W.  Tran- 
sept; the  S.E.  Portal;  and  the  Chapter  House,  with  its  Hying  buttresses. 

Interior.  The  usual  entrance  is  by  one  of  the  W.  doors.  The  N.wk 
is  harmonious  and  imposing  ,    though   the  vaulting  is  rather  low  and  the 

28* 


436     Route  56.  LINCOLN.  From  Hull 

bays  too  wide.  At  its  W.  end  are  two  chapels,  of  somewhat  later  date. 
The  Norman  font  stands  under  the  second  arch  to  the  S.  The  stained  glass 
is  modern,  and  the  monuments  are  of  little  interest.  The  way  in  which  the 
E.E.  work  is  accommodated  to  the  pre-existing  Norman  front  is  interesting^ 
—  The  Central  Tower  is  supported  hy  four  fine  and  lofty  arches,  with 
massive  stone  piers,  contrasting  with  the  slender  piers  of  the  nave.  In 
the  lantern  hangs  'Great  Tom\  a  bell  weighing  5V2  tons.  —  The  Great 
Transepts  contain  two  bays  of  St.  Hugh's  work,  while  the  rest  is  a 
little  later.  The  most  interesting  features  are  the  two  circular  windows, 
that  in  the  S.  transept  being  called  the  Bishop's  Eye  (ca.  1325),  and  that 
in  the  N.  the  ''Dean's  Eye  (ca.  1225).  The  glass  in  both  is  old.  The  E. 
aisles  of  the  transepts  contain  chapels,  separated  from  the  transepts  by 
carved  screens.  The  beautiful  Doorways  leading  into  the  choir-aisles  are 
of  the  latest  E.E.  period. 

The  'Choir,  the  oldest  known  example  of  the  E.E.  or  pure  Gothic 
style,  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  Dec.  Screen  (1320),  surmounted  by 
the  organ.  The  lowness  of  the  vaulting  is  felt  here  even  more  than  in  the 
nave.  The  five  easternmost  bays  of  the  choir,  beyond  the  E.  Transepts, 
form  the  ** Presbytery  or  Angel  Choir,  'one  of  the  loveliest  of  human 
works',  added  in  1255-80.  Its  proportions  and  its  details  are  alike  admir- 
able. The  -Choir  Stalls,  dating  from  the  late-Dec.  period  (1360-80),  are  un- 
surpassed in  England  (comp.  p.  278).  Among  other  noticeable  points  in 
the  choir  are  the  "E.  Window,  the  Easter  Sepulchre,  to  the  left  of  the 
high-altar;  the  monuments  of  Catherine  Swynford,  third  wife  of  John  of 
Gaunt,  and  their  daughter,  the  Countess  of  Westmorland,  to  the  right  of 
the  altar;  the  site  of  the  shrine  of  Little  St.  Hugh  of  Lincoln,  a  child  al- 
leged to  have  been  crucified  by  the  Jews;  the  unique  Piers  at  the  angles 
of  the  choir  and  E.  transept,  with  their  crocketed  and  detached  shafts;  the 
modern  Pm^^i^;  the  monument  oi  Bp.  Wordsworth  (d.  1885);  the  sculptured 
Angels  in  the  Angel  Choir;  and  the  Diapered  Screen  of  the  Choristers" 
Vestry.     Most  of  the  stained  glass  is  modern  and  bad. 

From  the  N.E.  Transept  we  enter  a  vestibule  leading  to  the  Cloisters, 
on  the  floor  of  which  is  a  slab  marking  the  grave  of  ''Mrs.  Markhani 
(Elizabeth  Penrose),  the  guide  of  our  earliest  historical  studies.  The 
Cloisters  were  erected  towards  the  end  of  the  13th  century.  The  N.  Walk, 
rebuilt  by  Wren,  affords  one  of  the  best  views  of  the  Cathedral.  —  In  the 
E.  Walk  is  the  entrance  to  the  *Chapter  House,  a  decagonal  building  of 
the  18th  cent. ,  with  vaulting  borne  by  a  central  shaft.  —  The  Chapter 
Library,   above  the  N.  Cloister,  contains  5000  vols,  rnd  valuable  MSS. 

Many  of  the  houses  surrounding  the  Close,  or  Minster  Yard,  are 
picturesque  and  interesting.  Among  these  are  the  Chancery  (14-15th  cent.), 
at  the  N.E.  angle;  the  Cantilupe  Chantry,  the  house  known  as  the  Priory,- 
and  the  quaint  little  Vicars''  Court  (14-15th  cent.),  opposite  the  S.  Transept, 
The  remains  of  the  Old  Episcopal  Palace  to  the  S.,  the  oldest  parts  dating 
from  early  in  the  12th  cent.,  are  also  of  great  interest;  they  include 
Bishop  Alnwick's  Tower  (now  fitted  up  for  the  Theological  School)  and 
Dining  Room,  and  St.  Hugh's  Hall.  A  new  Palace  has  been  erected  by  the 
side  of  the  ruins  of  the  earlier  one,  a  part  of  which  has  been  restored 
as  the  Bishop's  Domestic  Chapel.  The  Deanery,  to  the  N.  of  the  Cathedral, 
is  modern;  the  Sub-Deanery  (with  a  gond  oriel)  and  the  Precentory  have 
been  modernized.  —  The  main  entrance  to  the  Close  is  by  the  Exchequer 
Gate  (see  p.  435),  a  large  three-arched  gateway  of  the  early  14th  century. 
Potter   Gate,  at  the  S.  E.  corner,  is  of  the  same  date. 

Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Lincoln  are  the  Arboretum^ 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  city  ;  the  small  ruin  oi Monks  Abbey ;  St.  Anne's 
Bede  -  Houses ;  the  large  County  Hospital;  and  the  Science  <f'  Art 
School.  —  In  the  High  St.,  to  the  S.  of  our  starting-point  at  the 
Midland  Railway  (see  p.  434),  is  St.  Marys  Guild,  an  interesting 
range  of  12t.h  cent,  buildings,  popularly  known  as  John  of  Gaunt's 
Stables  (to  the  left;    near  St.  Peter's).      On   the  opposite  side 


to  Nottingham.  BOSTON.  5G.  Route.     4H7 

(Nos.  122,  123)  is  John  of  Gaunl's  Palace  (much  altered).  The 
old  church  of  St.  Peter-at-Gowts,  on  the  other  side  of  the  street, 
has  a  pre -Norman  tower  like  that  of  St.  Mary's  (p.  434).  The 
High  St.  ends  at  the  Baryate  Bridge^  over  an  arm  of  the  Witham. 

The  immediate  environs  of  Lincoln  contain  few  attractions,  but  the 
ecclesiologist  will  lind  much  to  interest  him  in  Linculnshire  churches. 

The  usual  routes  from  London  to  Lincoln  are  the  G.  N.  R.  from  Kiny's 
Cross  via  Grantham  (comp.  p.  36S),  or  the  G.  E.  R.  from  Liverpool  St. 
via  Spalding  (see  below;  3-4  hrs. ;  fares  18«.  lOd.,  lOa.  9d.);  it  may  also 
be  reached  from  St.  Pancras  via  Nottingham,  or  from  Euston  via  Rugby 
and  Trent. 

Fkum  Lincoln  to  Boston,  30  M.,  G.  N.  R.  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  45.  2d., 
2i.  6V'Jt?.).  This  line  runs  through  the  fen-country,  following  the  lower 
course  of  the  Witham.  Ytovh  (S' '2  M.)  Bardney  a  branch-line  runs  N.  to 
Louth,  with  a  fine  church-spire,  294  ft.  high.  —At  (W/-z'M.)Kirk.'<tead,  with  the 
remains  of  a  Cistercian  abbey  (12th  cent.),  a  line  diverges  to  Horncastle,  passing 
Woodhall  Spa,  with  springs  strongly  impregnated  with  iodine.  —  To  the 
left,  near  (I8V2  M.)  Tattershall.   is   the  keep  of  an  old  Castle  (16th  cent.). 

30  M.  Boston,  i.e.  St.  Botolph's  Town  (Peacock;  Red  Lion;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  an  ancient  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Witham.,  with  14,600  inhab., 
is  perhaps  chiefly  interesting  from  its  association  with  its  famous  name- 
sake on  the  (ither  side  of  the  Atlantic.  The  "Church  of  St.  Botolph  is  a 
large  Dec.  building,  with  a  lofty  I'erp.  tower  (^Boston  Stump')  crowned 
with  an  octagonal  lantern  (2  Oft.).  It  c  mtain*!  a  chapel  restored  in  1857 
by  New  England  Bostonians  in  memory  of  .Tohn  Cotton  (1085-1652),  who 
was  vicar  here  before  he  went  to  America.  The  old  Guildhall,  in  which 
Brewster  (p.  412)  and  his  comjianions  were  tried,  has  some  ancient  stained 
glass.  —  Boston  is  a  railway-centre  of  some  importance,  lines  running  N.  to 
Skegness  (a  rising  watering-place),  Willowjhhy  (with  a  branch  to  Sutton-on- 
Sea  SiTMlMablethorpe),  Louth  (see  above),  and  Grimsby  (p.  434);  W.  to  Slea- 
ford  (p.  369)  and  .eaj-i-s<one(p.c68);  and  S.  io  Spalding  {Lynn,  Peterborough, 
etc.).  Many  of  the  finest  churches  in  Lincolnshire  and  Norfolk  lie  on  the 
railway  between  Boston  and  Lynn  (p.  450). 

Fkom  Lincoln  to  Gainsborol'.h,  16  M.,  railway  in  20-80  niin.,  via 
Saxilby,  Stow  Park,  and  Lea.  —  16  M.  Gainsborough  (White  Hart;  Rail. 
Rfmt.  Rooms),  on  the  Trent,  is  an  interesting  old  river-port  and  manufactur- 
ing town.  The  Church  of  All  Saints  has  an  ancient  tower  (ca.  130U)._  The 
Old  Hall,  or  Manor  House,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  liaronial  residence  (15-lOth 
cent.;  restored  in  18S4).  John  Robinson  (1575-1625),  tlie  pastor  of  the  Pilgrim 
Fathers  at  Leyden,  is  believed  to  have  been  a  native  of  Gainsborough, 
where  the  John  Robinson  Memorial  Church  was  ojiened  in  June  1897.  Gains- 
borough is  the  St.  Ogg's  of  the  -Mill  on  tlie  Floss',  The  'eagre\  or  tidal  wave 
on  the  Trent,  runs  past  the  town.  —  Railways  to  Doncaster  (p.  412),  Retford 
(p.  368),  and  Barnethy  (p.  431)  diverge  here.  'A  steamer  plies  daily  to  Hull, 

Beyond  Lincoln  the  train  continues  to  run  through  the  fenny 
district,  the  meres  and  marshes  of  -which  have,  however,  been 
mostly  converted  into  rich  pasture  and  fertile  corn-land.  —  At 
(571/2  >r.)  Newark  (p.  368)  we  cross  the  main  line  of  the  G.N.R. 

61 '/o  M.  Rolleston  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (71/2  M.)  Souths 
well  and"  (141  2  m.)  Mansfield  (p.  368). 

Southwell  ('Saracen's  Head),  a  small  town  with  2830  inhab.,  is  often 
visited  for  the  sake  of  its  fine  -Minster  (306  ft.  long),  raised  to  the  rank 
of  a  cathedral  in  1884.  It  is  one  of  the  few  great  English  churches  of  an 
early  period  that  retain  their  three  towers.  The  li'ave.  Transepts,  and 
Towers  are  Norman,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent.;  and  the 
massive  ^Interior  is  very  imposing.  The  Choir,  with  its  ingeniously  com- 
bined triforium  and  clerestory,  is  E.E.,  dating  from  1230-50.  The  Chapter 
House,  erected  in  1285-1300,  is  adorned  with  exquisite  Stone-carvings.  The 
fine  Screen  separating  the  choir   and   nave   is  Dec.  (14th  cent.).  —  To  the 


438     Route  56.  NOTTINGHAM. 

S.  of  the  cathedral   are  the  ruins  of  an  old  Palace  of  the  Archbishops  of 
York  and  the  New  Palace  by  Bodley. 

At  (65  M.)  Thurgarton  is  Thurgarton  Priorij,  on  the  site  of  a 
Benedictine  convent.    The  Priory  Church  is  now  the  parish-church. 

75  M.  Nottingham  ('G'eorye;  Clarendon;  Flying  Horse;  Maypole; 
Lion;  Caledonian  Temperance) ,  the  metropolis  of  the  lace  and 
hosiery  manufacture  of  England,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  steep 
slope  of  a  sandstone  hill,  near  the  junction  of  the  small  river  Leen 
with  the  Trent.     The  population  is  about  212,000. 

Nottingham,  the  Snodengahame  of  the  Saxons,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
towns  in  England,  probably  occupies  the  site  of  an  early  British  settlement. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  it  was  a  centre  of  the  'Luddite' 
riots,  in  which  the  stocking-makers  endeavoured  to  improve  their  miserable 
position  by  concerted  action  against  the  masters,  chiefly  by  the  destruction 
of  machinery.  It  was  not  till  upwards  of  1000  stocking-frames  had  been 
demolished  and  several  rioters  put  to  death  that  order  was  finally  restored. 

The  Market  Place  of  Nottingham,  5^/2  acres  in  extent,  is  said 
to  he  the  largest  in  England.  It  was  formerly  divided  into  two 
portions  by  a  breast-high  wall,  which  was  erected  when  the  town 
consisted  of  two  distinct  boroughs,  English  and  Norman.  The  second 
stories  of  the  houses  round  it  project  over  the  pavement  and  are 
supported  by  pillars,  forming  a  kind  of  arcade.  The  ^University 
College,  a  handsome  Gothic  building,  contains  a  free  public  library, 
a  natural  history  museum  ,  well-equipped  laboratories ,  etc.  The 
Church  of  St.  Mary  is  a  fine  cruciform  edifice  of  the  15th  cent., 
with  a  tower  and  chancel  of  later  date;  it  possesses  a  fine  picture 
ascribed  to  Fra  Bartolommeo.  The  Rom.  Cath.  Cathedral  is  a  good 
example  of  Pugin  s  revived  Gothic.  The  School  of  Art  and  the  Ar- 
boretum may  also  be  mentioned. 

The  *Castle,  which  occupies  a  commanding  position  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  town,  150  ft.  above  the  Leen,  is,  in  its  present  form,  a 
palatial  building  in  the  Renaissance  style ,  containing  the  *Mid- 
land  Counties  Art  Museum.  The  Felix  Joseph  Gallery  of  drawings 
(500  by  Thos.  Stothard,  R.  A.)  and  the  *Antiquities  presented  by 
Lord  Savile  are  among  the  treasures  of  the  museum. 

The  original  castle,  built  by  the  Conqueror,  soon  came  to  be  regarded  as 
the  key  of  the  Midlands,  and  was  a  frequent  object  of  contest.  Mortimer, 
the  guilty  favourite  of  Queen  Isabella,  was  surprised  here  in  1330  by  Ed- 
ward III.,  who  gained  entrance  by  a  secret  passage  now  known  as  'Mor- 
timer's Hole';  Uwen  Glendower  was  imprisoned  within  its  walls;  and 
David  II.  of  Scotland  was  lodged  here  on  his  way  to  London.  In  1G42 
Charles  I.  unfurled  his  standard  and  mustered  his  troops  at  Nottingham 
Castle,  but  in  the  following  year  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Parliament. 
It  was  then  entrusted  to  the  care  of  Col.  Hutchinson,  whose  wife  has  left 
us  in  her  well-known  memoirs  a  charming  account  of  various  episodes 
of  the  Civil  War.  During  the  Commonwealth  the  old  castle  was  demolished. 
The  modern  one  founded  in  1674  by  the  conspicuous  Royalist.  William  Ca- 
vendish, Duke  of  Newcastle,  was  burned  down  by  the  mob  in  1831  in  con- 
sequence of  the  then  Dukes  opposition  to  the  Reform  Bill,  and  was  after- 
wards acquired  by  the  Corporation  and  restored  as  a  public  museum.  See 
Mr.  T.  C.  Hine's  interesting  monograph. 

The  tourist  should  visit  one  of  the  large  Lace  and  Hosiery  Factories. 
Among   the   largest  are  the  hosiery-works  of  Messrs.  I.  d-  R.  Morley  (6000 


BISHOP'S  STORTFORD.         57.  Route.     439 

workpeople) ;  the  hosiery  and  lace  factories  of  the  Nottingham  Manufac- 
turing Co.;  and  the  machine-works  of  the  Messrs.  Blackburn.  The  largest 
depot  of  lace  in  the  town  is  that  of  Messrs.  Thomas  Adams  <£•  Co. 

Henri/  Kirke  White  (1785-1806),  the  poet,  was  the  son  of  a  hutcher  here, 
and  Col.  Hutchinson  (see  p.  438;  1615-61)  was  also  a  native  of  Nottingham. 

About  8  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  Newstead  Abbey  (reached  by  train  to  Newstead 
or  Linby),  the  seat  of  Lord  Byron,  who  is  baried  in  the  church  o(  Hucknall 
Torkard,  3  M.  nearer  Nottingham.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  Newstead  is 
Annesley ,  the  married  home  of  Mrs.  Musters,  the  'Mary  Chaworth'  of 
Hymn's  youthful  poems.  About  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Nottingham  is  Wollaton 
Hall,  the  seat  of  Lord  Middleton,  a  fine  Elizabethan  mansion,  said  to  have 
been  designed  by  .Tohn  of  Padua;  in  the  park  is  a  famous  double  avenue 
of  limes.  —  i]xcursions  may  also  be  made  from  Nottingham  to  the  Dukeries 
Cp.  368),  Sherwood  Forest  (p.  368),  and  Southwell  (p.  437). 

57,  From  London  to  Cambridge. 

56  M.  Great  Eastern  Railway  from  Liverpool  Street  Station  or  St. 
Pancras  in  IV4-2V2  hrs.  (fares  8s.  9d.,  is.  l^kd.).  —  Cambridge  may  also 
lie  reached  by  the  G.N.R.  via  Hitchin  (same  times  and  fares),  or  by  the 
L.N.W.R.  via  Bedford. 

The  trains  from  Liverpool  Street  and  St.  Pancras  traverse  the 
N.E.  suburbs  of  London  and  unite  at  (6  M.)  Tottenham.  Beyond 
(SM.)  Angel  Road  the  wooded  heights  of  Epping  Forest  are  visible  to 
the  right.  —  13  M.  Wallham  Cross  (Four  Swans),  withWaltham  Ab- 
bey and  Cross  (see  Baedeker  s  London).  At  (14  M.)  Cheshunt,  famous 
for  its  rose-gardens,  is  the  house  where  Richard  Cromwell  died. 

Cheshunt  may  also  be  reached  by  a  suburban  line  from  Liverpool  St., 
via  Edmonton  (Bell,  rebuilt  since  Cowper's  time).  Charles  Lamb  (1775- 
1834)  died  at  Bay  Cottage,  Church  St.,  whither  he  removed  in  1833,  and 
is  buried  in  the  churchyard,  along  with  his  sister  JIary  (d.  1847).  In  the 
church  is  the  Butterworth  memorial  to  Lamb  and  Cowper.  John  Keats 
(1795-1821)  served  his  apprenticeship  with  a  surgeon  in  Church  St.  (1810-16) 
and  there  wrote  his  -Juvenile  Poems'.  A  short  liranch-line  runs  from 
Edmonton  to  Enfield,  with  the  Royal  Small  Arms  Factory  (open  to  visitors 
on  Mun.  &  Thurs.).  The  church  contains  several  interesting  monuments. 
The  Palace  (now  a  school)  still  retains  some  work  of  the  Tudor  period. 
Lamb  (see  above)  lived  from  1827  to  1833  at  Enfield  ;  Keats  and  Captain 
Marryat  (1792-1821)  wore  educated  here;  and  Isaac  Disraeli  (1766-1848)  was 
a  native  of  the  town. 

17  M.  Broxbourne  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Rye  House  and 
Hertford  (p.  371),  and  to  Widford  and  Buntingford. 

Charles  Lamb,  when  a  boy,  used  to  \\s\t  Blakesware.,  near  Widford  (the 
Blakesmoor  in  H —  shire  of  'Elia'),  where  his  grandmother,  Jlary  Field 
(d.  1792;  buried  at  Widford),  was  housekeeper. 

We  now  cross  the  Lea  and  enter  Essex.  —  From  (30  '/o  M.)  Bishop's 
Stortford  {George;  G600  inhab.)  a  branch  runs  to  (9  xM.)  Dunmoxv 
(Saracen's  Head),  Braintree  (18  M.),  and  (30  M.)  Witham  (p.  451). 

Near  Dunmow  are  the  ruins  of  the  Priory,  where  it  was  the  custom 
(recently  revived)  to  present  a  fiitch  of  bacon  to  any  married  couple  who 
had  not  repented  of  their  marriage  during  a  year  and  a  day. 

Near  (42  M.)  Audley  End  is  the  tine  seat  of  Lord  Braybrooke 
(shown  to  visitors  on  Tues.  &  Thurs.). 

About  2  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  SaflFron  Walden  (Rose  db  Crown),  a  small 
town  (61(X)  inhab.),  with  a  large  Perp.  church,  a  ruined  castle,  a  museum, 
and  several  quaint  timbered  houses. 


440     Route  57.  CAMBRIDGE.  History. 

46  M.  Great  Chesterford;  53  M.  Shelford.  Farther  on,  the  low 
Gogmagog  Hills  are  visible  to  the  right.  The  red  buildings  on  the 
same  side  as  we  enter  the  station  are  Cavendish  College  (p.  447). 

58  M.  Cambridge  (see  Plan,  p.  446 ).  — Hotels.  Bull  (PI.  a; B, 4), 
Trumpington  St.,  R.  &  A.  4s.  Gd.,  B.  l.s.  6(7.,  D.  3s.;  Univkksity  Arms, 
Regent  St.  (PI.  D,  4).  R.  &  A.  4s.,  B.  Is.  Gd.,  D.  3s. ;  Red  Lion  (PI.  c;  C,  3), 
Petty  Cury;  Hoop  (PI.  d;  C,  2),  Bridge  St.;  Prince  of  Wales  (PI.  e:  C,  3), 
Sidney  St.,  with  restaurant,  K.  &  A.  4s.;  Bird  Bolt  Temperance  (PI.  f; 
C,  4),  St.  Andrew's  St.,  plain. 

Restaurants.  Moyes^  Benet  St.;  Prince  of  Wales  Hotels  see  above; 
Webb^  Market  Passage,  Market  St. ;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms.  —  Cafe  Oriental., 
Trinity  St.  (tea  and  coffee).  —  Ices  at  Thurston's,  Market  St. 

Photographs.  R.  H.  Lord.,  Market  Place;  Steam.,  Bridge  St.;  Clarke, 
Post  Office  Terrace. 

Baths.  Flack.,  25  St.  Andrew's  St.  —  River  Baths  at  the  University 
Sheds  (not  open  to  strangers)  and  on  Sheep's  Green. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  13;  C,  3),  Petty  Cury. 

The  Railway  Station  (beyond  PI.  D,  6)  lies  iV2  M.  from  the  centre  of 
the  town;  cab  Is.  Qd.  (each  pers.  beyond  one,  Qd.  extra). 

Tramways  run  from  the  Station  through  Hills  Road,  Regent  St.,  and 
St.  Andrew's  St.  to  the  Post  Office  (PI.  13;  C,  8)  and  through  Lensfield 
Road  and  Trumpington  St.  to  the  Market  Place  (PI.  B,  C,  3).  Fares  id.,  Id. 
—  Omnibuses  (fare  Id.)  also  ply  fr  ni  the  Station  to  the  Markft- Place.,  etc. 

Principal  Attractions.  Fitzwilliam  Museum  (p.  441);  Peterliouse  (p.  441)  ; 
Queens''  College  (p.  442);  King's  College  (p.  443),  with  its  grounds  and  chapel; 
Clare  College  (p.  444);  Exterior  of  the  University  Library  and  Senate  House 
(pp.  443, 444) ;  Trinity  College  (p.  444),  and  grounds ;  St.  John's  College  (p.  445), 
with  grounds;  the  Round  Church  (p.  446);  Magdalen  College  (p.  446); 
Jesus  College  (p.  446);  Gonville  and  Caius  College  (p.  444).  A  college-service 
should  be  attended  in  the  chapel  of  King's,  Trinity,  St.  John's,  or  Caius. 
A  walk  or  a  row  along  the  ^'Backs  should  on  no  account  be  omitted. 

Boats  may  be  hired  on  the  Lower  Riier ,  the  Upper  River,  or  the 
Backs,  three  reaches  of  the  Cam.  at  different  levels,  separated  by  locks. 
Visitors  who  merely  wish  a  short  row  should  take  a  boat  either  at  the 
Mill  Pool  (PI.  B,  5)  or  at  Garret  Hostel  Bridge  (PI.  A,  3),  adjoining 
Trinity,  and  skirt  the  College  Backs  (see  below).  —  The  Inter-Collegiate  Boat 
Races  (comp.  p.  228;  chiefly  in  June)  are  rowed  on  the  Lower  River  (p.  446), 
and  here  also  all  the  necessary  practice  is  performed.  The  pretty  but 
narrow  Upper  River  is  resigned  to  non-racing  boats. 

Cambridge,  a  town  with  about  44,400  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Cam, 
in  a  somewhat  flat  but  not  unpleasing  district,  is  interesting  as  the 
seat  of  one  of  the  two  great  English  Universities.  Though  on  the 
whole  less  picturesque  than  Oxford,  especially  as  regards  general 
views,  Cambridge  contains  several  collegiate  buildings  which  are 
at  least  equal  in  interest  to  those  of  the  sister-university,  while  in 
certain  points,  such  as  the  'Backs',  i.e.  the  beautiful  lawns  and 
avenues  behind  the  colleges,  it  possesses  charms  peculiar  to  itself. 

History.  Though  its  authenticated  pre-Academic  epoch  is  longer,  the 
history  of  Cambridge  is  identitied,  even  more  than  is  the  case  at  Oxford, 
with  the  growth  of  its  university.  It  is  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the 
British  Caer  Graunth  and  the  Roman  Camhoritum,  situated  on  the  N.  (left) 
bank  of  the  Cam  or  Granta.  The  name  appears  in  the  Anglo-Saxon 
Chronicle  as  Grantabrycge,  and  later  as  Cantebrigge  (14-15th  cent.).  The  town 
was  ravaged  several  times  by  the  Danes,  and  'William  the  Conquerur  built 
a  castle  here,  of  which  almost  nothing  now  remains  (comp.  p.  446). 

In  regard  to  the  University ,  legend  has  been  no  less  daring  at  Cam- 
bridge  than   at   Oxford,    ascribing   the   establishment    of  the   lirst   seat   of 


ai|nerA.Deljes'6eogfEstabVleipsic . 


site  of 


Fitzwilliam  Mus.  CAMBRIDGE.  57.  Route.     441 

learning  here  to  a  Spanish  prince  named  Cantaber^  300  years  before  the  Chris- 
tian era!  In  both  cases,  however,  the  (irst  establishment  of  teachin;^  bodies 
seems  to  have  taken  place  in  the  12th  cent. ,  while  their  documentary 
history  begins  in  the  I5th.  The  earliest  recognition  of  Cambridge  Univer- 
sity occurs  in  a  writ  of  Ihe  second  year  of  Henry  III.  (1217) ;  the  lirst 
college  was  founded  in  1284;  and  in  1318  the  University  was  rc^cognised  as  a 
studium  yenerale  by  Pope  John  XXII.  The  manner  of  its  early  development 
was  similar  to  that  of  Oxford,  and  has  already  been  indicated  at  p.  225.  Of 
the  numerous  disputes  between  the  University  and  the  Town,  the  most  serious 
was  that  of  1381,  when  the  townsmen  stormed  the  colleges  and  destroyed 
most  of  their  charters.  In  the  Civil  War  many  of  the  colleges  sent  their 
plate  to  the  king,  but  the  town  acquiesced  without  resistance  in  the  rule 
of  the  Commonwealth.  Cambridge  contains  17  colleges  and  1  public  hostel, 
attended  by  about  'dvOO  students. 

Comp.  Willis  &  Clark's  'Architectural  History  of  Cambridge"  (4  quarto 
vols.;  18S6) ,  /.  Bass  Mullinger's  admirable  'History  of  the  University 
of  Cambridge'  (1873-84)  and  his  shiirter  work  in  the  'Epochs  of  Church 
History'  series  (18S8),  J.  W.  Clark's  'Cambridge"  (1890),  the  University 
Calendar.,  and  the  Cambrilge  Student's  Handbook.  See  also  pp.  226-22S 
for   a  general  sketch  of  the  customs  and  organisation  of  the  University. 

At  the  (3  min.)  end  of  Station  Road  we  turn  to  the  right  and 
follow  the  tramway-line,  passing  the  red  Church  of  St.  Paul,  and 
Harvey  Road,  leading  to  the  University  Cricket  Ground.  Farther  on, 
at  the  large  Roman  Catholic  Church.,  opposite  the  new  buildings  of 
the  Perse  Grammar  School,  we  turn  to  the  left  into  Lensfield  Road,  a 
broad  thoroughfare  passing  the  grounds  of  Downing  College  (on  the 
right;  p.  447)  to  the  (^4  M.)  S.  end  of  Trumpington  Street.  Here  is 
situated  Hohson's  Conduit  (PI.  C,  6),  constructed  in  1614,  partly  at 
the  cost  of  Thomas  Hohson,  carrier  and  livery  stable-keeper,  whose 
rule  of  strict  rotation  in  letting  out  his  horses  gave  rise  to  the  phrase 
'Hohson's  Choice'.    His  memory  has  been  immortalised  by  Milton. 

Proceeding  to  the  N. ,  we  pass  Addenhrooke's  Hospital  (PI.  1  ; 
C,  5)  and  reach  the  ^FitzwiUiam  Museum  (PI.  C,  5;  open  daily,  10-6 
in  summer  and  10-4  in  winter ;  on  Frid.  to  visitors  accompanied  by 
a  member  of  the  University  in  academic  gown),  a  fine  building  in 
a  Grecian  style,  with  the  important  collections  bequeathed  by  Vi?:- 
count  Fitzwilliam  in  1816  and  acquisitions  of  later  date. 

Interior.  Passing  through  the  beautiful  Entkance  Hall,  and  ascending 
the  Staikcase,  we  enter  the  large  West  Gallery,  containing  pictures  by 
Holbein,  Diirer,  Rembrandt  (Oflicer),  Titian,  Paolo  Veronese,  Dow,  Hogarth, 
and  others  (catalogues  provided).  —  To  the  right  is  the  Nokth  Dome 
Room,  with  paintings  by  British  masters,  and  this  is  adjoined  by  the 
NoKTH  Gallekv,  containing  works  of  less  interest.  —  The  South  Dome 
Room  contains  minor  Italian  works,  and  the  South  Galleky  works  of 
the  French,  Flemish,  and  German  schools.  A  collection  of  25  Drawings 
by  Turner  is  also  shown.  —  In  the  Basement  Room  are  ancient  sculptures, 
Greek  vases,  models  of  buildings,  bronzes.  Oriental  curiosities,  etc.  —  The 
fine  LiBKAKY,  with  one  of  the  richest  collections  of  prints  in  Europe,  is 
shown  to  graduates  and  their  friends  only,  or  to  undergraduates  with  an  order. 

The  Archaeological  Museum,  an  annexe  to  the  Fitzwilliam  Museum  be- 
hind St.  Mary  the  Less  (p.  442),  contains  upwards  of  600  casts  from  the 
antique  (open  daily,  except  Frid.,  10  to  4  or  6;  catalogue  by  Dr.  Waldstiin). 

On  the  same  side,  just  beyond  the  Museum,  is  St.  Peter's 
College  (PI.  15,  C,  5),  or  Peterhouse,  the  oldest  college  in  Cambridge, 
founded  by  Hugh  de  Balsham,  Bishop  of  Ely,  in  1284.  It  possesses 
two  courts,  the  first  of  which  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  Chapel, 


442     Route  57.  CAMBRIDGE.  Queens'  College. 

built  in  1632  in  an  Italian  Gothic  style.  The  only  parts  of  the  orig- 
inal building  are  on  the  left  side  of  the  first  court  (visible  from  the 
W.).  The  new  Combination  Room,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  second  court, 
contains  some  beautiful  stained  glass  by  Burne-Jones  and  Morris. 

The  most  famous  member  of  Peterhouse  is  the  poet  Gray,  who  occu- 
pied rooms  on  the  X.  side  of  the  first  court.  They  are  recognisable  by 
the  iron  bars  at  the  window  (on  the  outside  wall,  facing  St.  Mary  the 
Less),  which  are  said  to  have  been  placed  there  by  Gray  to  facilitate  the 
use  of  a  rope-ladder  in  case  of  fire.  —  To  the  W. ,  reached  from  either 
court,  are  the  pleasant  College  Orotmds. 

Adjoining  Peterhouse  is  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  the  Less  (PL  8), 
which  for  350  years  served  as  the  college -chapel.  It  is  in  the 
Dec.  style  of  the  14th  cent.,  but  has  been  spoiled  by  alterations. 

Opposite  St.  Mary's  is  Pembroke  College  (Pl.B,  C,  5),  founded 
by  the  Countess  of  Pembroke  in  1347,  but  almost  entirely  rebuilt. 
The  Chapel  was  built  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  in  1663-65 ;  the 
Hall,  Library,  and  Masters  Lodge  are  recent  erections  by  Water- 
house,  the  rest  of  the  new  buildings  are  by  the  younger  Scott. 

The  room  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  formerly  the  chapel,  contains  a 
fine  ceiling.  The  cloister  leading  to  the  chapel  is  also  interesting.  The 
pretty  *  Gardens  contain  a  mulberry-tree  associated  with  the  memory  of 
Edmund  Spenser,  who  was  a  member  of  this  college.  Other  eminent 
alumni  are  Ridley,  Grindal,  Andrews,  Gray  (who  removed  to  Pembroke 
fr(im  Peterhouse),  William  Pitt,  and  Richard  Crashaw. 

To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Mill  Lane,  stands  the  Pitt  Press 
(PI.  B,  5) ,  a  large  ecclesiastical -looking  edifice,  containing  the 
University  Printing  Office  and  the  Registry.  It  is  nicknamed  the 
'Freshmen's  Church'.    To  the  right  is  St.  Botolph's  Church  (PI.  5). 

Following  Silver  St.  to  the  left,  we  reach  *Q,ueens' College  (PI.  B, 
4),  founded  in  1448  by  Queen  Margaret  of  Anjou,  wife  of  Henry  VI., 
and  completed  by  Queen  Elizabeth  Woodville,  wife  of  Edward  IV. 

We  pass  through  the  handsome  vaulted  Gatetcay,  with  its  four  turrets, 
and  enter  the  Great  Court,  with  the  Hall.  Library,  and  old  'Chapel.  On  the 
wall  of  the  latter,  which  has  been  judiciously  restored,  is  a  large  sun-dial. 
The  passage  adjoining  the  Hall  leads  into  the  picturesque  Cloister  Court, 
from  which  an  old  wooden  bridge  crosses  the  Cam  to  the  'College  Grounds. 
To  the  S.  of  the  Cloister  Court  is  the  Erasmus  Court,  with  the  Erasmus 
Tower.,  in  which  Erasmus  lodged.  On  the  IS^.  side  of  the  principal  court 
is  the  Walnut  Tree  Court.  A  new  court,  with  a  large  new  Chapel,  has  been 
built  farther  to  the  N.    Thomas  Fuller  was  a  member  of  Queens'. 

By  continuing  to  follow  Silver  St.,  crossing  the  Cam,  and  going  through 
a  lane  in  a  straight  direction,  we  reach  Pddley  Hall,  a  modern  theological 
college  for  graduates.  Farther  on,  beyond  Corpus  Cricket  Ground,  is  Selwyn 
College,  founded  in  1882,  and  intended,  like  Keble  College  (p.  234),  to 
provide  an  economical  university  training  for  members  of  the  Church  of 
England.  Beyond  are  the  new  University  Football  Ground  and  the  fine 
Riyie  Range  of  the  University  volunteers.  —  To  the  S.  of  Selwyn  is  Newn- 
ham  College,  one  of  the  two  women's  colleges  at  Cambridge,  established 
in  1875.     It  accommodates  100  students. 

Leaving  Queens'  by  the  main  gateway  and  turning  to  the  left, 
we  reach -SL  Catharine's  College  (PI.  B,  4),  founded  in  1475.  Arch- 
bishop Sandys  was  Master  of  St.  Catharine's.  —  Passing  through 
this  college,  we  again  reach  Trumpington  St.,  opposite  — 


King's  College.  CAMBRIDGE.  57.  Route.     443 

Corpus  Christi  College  (PL  B,  4),  established  in  1352  by  the 
amalgamation  of  the  'Gilda  Corporis  Christi'  and  the  'Gilda  Beatae 
Marise  Yirginis'.  The  W.  front  and  the  first  court  are  modern,  bat 
the  picturesque  Old  Court  (entered  from  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  first 
court)  belongs  to  the  original  building.  The  Library  (to  the  right 
on  entering)  contains  a  very  valuable  collection  of  MSS.,  bequeathed 
by  Archbishop  Parker,  and  the  Buttery  possesses  some  fine  old  plate. 
Archbishops  Tenison  and  Parker,  Marlowe,  Fletcher,  Richard  Boyle, 
and  Samuel  Wesley  are  among  the  names  on  the  college-books. 

Behind  Corpus,  l)etween  Downing  St.  and  Free  Scliool  Lane,  are  the 
Science  Schools  and  Museums  and  the  new  Engineering  Lubovatonj  (see  p.  447). 

In  Benet  Street,  to  the  N.  of  Corpus,  is  St.  Benedict's  Church 
(PI.  4),  generally  called  St.  BeneVs,  the  tower  of  which  is  one  of 
the  best  specimens  of  pre-Norman  architecture  in  England.  In  the 
interior  the  arch  opening  into  the  tower  is  noticeable ;  the  rest  of 
the  building  has  been  modernized  (key  at  3  King's  Parade). 

The  continuation  of  Trumpington  St.  is  named  the  King's  Parade^ 
and  here,  in  an  open  and  central  position,  is  *Zing's  College  (PL  B, 
4),  founded  in  1440  by  Henry  VI.,  and  finished  by  Henry  VII.  and 
Henry  VIII.  The  Great  Court  is  separated  from  the  street  by  a 
modern  open-work  stone  screen.  On  the  W.  side  are  the  Library 
and  the  Provost's  Lodge,  from  which  a  fine  lawn  slopes  to  the  river. 

On  the  X.  side  of  the  principal  court  is  the  "Chapel,  the  glory  of 
King's  College  and  of  Cambridge,  built  in  1446-1515,  and  one  of  the  tinest 
Perp.  interiors  in  England  (p.  liii-,  open,  free,  10-3).  It  is  290  ft. 
long  and  85  ft.  wide.  The  beautiful  'Stained  Glass  Windows  date  from  the 
16th  cent.,  except  that  at  the  W.  end,  which  is  a  modern  imitation  of  the 
others.  The  fan-vaulted  Ceiling,  the  carved  Stalls,  and  the  Organ  Screen 
all  demand  notice.  The  altar-piece  is  a  Descent  from  the  Cross  by 
Daniele  da  Volterra.  The  Tudor  portcullis  and  rose  are  here,  as  elsewhere 
in  Cambridge,  freely  used  in  the  decoration.  Visitors  may  ascend  to  the 
roof,  which  commands  an  extensive  view,  reaching  on  the  N.E.,  to  Elv 
Cathedral  (p.  448). 

The  other  buildings  of  the  college  were  built  in  the  18-19th  cent,  and 
have  no  particular  architectural  merit.  The  Fountain  was  erected  in  1877. 
The  bridge  over  the  Cam  affords  a  tine  view.  Close  to  the  river  is  part 
of  a  new  court,  by  Bodley.  —  Among  the  chief  members  of  King's  were 
Archbp.  Sumner,  Bp.  Pearson,  Sir  William  Temple,  Sir  Robert  Walpole, 
Horace  Walpole,  and  Lord  Stratford  de  lledclille. 

Visitors  who  do  not  intend  to  walk  all  along  the  Backs  (p.  440)  may 
obtain  a  view  of  them,  at  perhaps  their  prettiest  point,  by  crossing  King's 
College  bridge  and  entering  Clare  (see  p.  4i4)  from  behind. 

The  Pythagoras  School  (origin  of  name  unknown),  adjoining  the  Backs, 
near  St.  John's  College,  i^^  an  interesting  late-Xorman  house  (p.  xli). 

A  little  farther  on  ,  to  the  left  and  standing  back  from  the 
street,  is  the  Schools  Quadrangle,  now  nearly  absorbed  by  the  "Uni- 
versity Library  (PL  17,  B  3;  open  10-4,  on  Sat.  9-1,  to  visitors 
accompanied  by  a  graduate). 

The  original  buildings  of  this  (Quadrangle  were  finished  in  the  15th 
century.  Considerable  additions  were  made  about  1715,  and  the  present 
facade  was  added  in  1754-58.  Other  additions  and  alterations  have  been 
carried  out  during  the  present  cent. ;  and  most  of  the  rooms  formerly 
used  as  Examination  Schools  have  been  gradually  absorbed  by  the  Library. 

The  Library,  which  is  surpassed  in  size  in  England  by  the  British 
Museum  and  Bodleian  alone,  contains  450,000  vols,  and  3000  MSS.  Among 


444     Route  57.  CAMBRIDGE.  Trinity  College. 

tlie  latter,  many  of  wliicli  are  of  immense  value,  are  the  Beza  MS.  of  tlie 
Gospels  and  Acts  of  the  Apostles  (6th  cent. ;  presented  by  Theodore  de 
Beza  in  1581),  a  copy  on  vellum  of  Wycliffe's  Bible,  and  a  Persian  MS.  of 
1388.  There  are  also  numerous  incunabula  and  a  folio  of  sketches  by 
Rembrandt.  —  The  Public  Schools  form  part  of  the  same  block  of  buildings. 

The  Library  is  adjoined  by  the  Senate  House  (PL  14),  built  by 
Gibbs  in  the  Corinthian  style  in  1730.  The  interior  contains  stat- 
ues of  Pitt,  by  Nollekens  ,  the  Duke  of  Somerset,  by  Rysbrack^  etc. 
The  graduation  ceremonials  and  other  great  public  functions  of  the 
University  are  held  here.  —  Opposite  the  Library  is  St.  Mary's  the 
Great  (PL  7),  the  University  Church,  a  Perp.  edifice  of  1478-1519 
(university  service  at  2.15  p.m.  on  Sun.). 

We  now  go  down  Senate  House  Passage  to  Trinity  Hall  (PLB,3), 
founded  in  1350,  and  principally  frequented  by  students  of  law. 

The  Garden  Court  is  picturesque,  and  the  small  Fellous  Garden  is  also 
pretty.  The  book-cases  in  the  Library  still  retain  the  iron  bars  to  which 
the  books  used  to  be  chained.  Among  the  alumni  of  Trinity  Hall  are 
Hollinshed,  Lord  Howard  of  Effingham,  Kp.  Gardiner,  Lord  Chesterfield, 
Lord  Lytton,  Lord  Chief  Justice  Cuckburn,  .Tohn  Sterling,  and  Leslie  Stephen. 

To  the  S.  of  Trinity  Hall  lies  Clare  College  (PL  B,  3),  the  sec- 
ond oldest  in  Cambridge,  founded  in  1326;  the  present  buildings, 
which  enclose  a  large  court  on  the  bank  of  the  Cam,  are  of  later  date. 

At  the  back  is  a  bridge  leading  across  the  Cam  (view)  to  the  beau- 
tiful 'Fellows'  Garden  and  a  fine  avenue  of  limes.  Archbishop  Tillotson 
and  Cudworth  are,  perhaps,  the  two  most  eminent  names  associated  with  Clare. 

Opposite  Clare  is  the  handsome  new  W.  facade  of  the  Schools 
Quadrangle  (comp.  p.  443) ,  incorporating  and  completing  the  old 
King's  College  Gateway.  To  the  left  is  the  Geological  Museum  (open 
10-4),  containing  a  very  extensive  collection  of  fossils. 

We  now  return  to  Senate  House  Passage  and  pass  through  the 
picturesque  Gate  of  Honour  into  Gonville  and  Caius  College 
(PL  B,  3),  shortly  styled  Caius  ('Keys') ,  founded  in  1348  by 
Edmund  de  Gonville,  and  refounded  in  1558  by  the  erudite  Dr. 
Caius,  body-physician  to  Queen  Mary.  The  Gate  of  Humility^  the 
principal  entrance  (modern  ;  ancient  gate  preserved  in  a  passage 
near  the  lecture-rooms),  is  in  Trinity  St. 

The  Caius  Court^  which  we  enter  by  the  Gate  of  Honour,  communicates 
with  the  first  or  Tree  Court  by  the  Gate  of  Virtue^  and  is  tlie  work  of  Dr. 
Caius.  The  inner  or  Gonville  Court,  to  the  right,  was  refaced  last  century. 
Among  former  students  of  Caius  are  Harvey  (p.  15),  Jan  C^ruter  (the  scholar), 
Sir  Thomas  Grssham,  Jeremy  Taylor,  and  Lord  Chancellor  Thurlow. 

In  Trinity  St. ,  opposite  Caius  College,  stands  St.  Michaels  Church 
(PL  9;  B,  3),  a  Dec.  building  restored  by  Scott.  —  To  the  left, 
beyond  Caius,  is  the  beautiful  King's  Gateway  of  *Trinity  College 
(PL  B,  3),  the  largest  college  in  England,  formed  by  Henry  Vlll. 
in  1546  by  the  amalgamation  of  several  earlier  foundations. 

The  lower  part  of  the  King's  Gateway  dates  from  the  time  of  Ed- 
ward IV.,  and  the  upper  from  that  of  Henry  VHI.,  with  a  statue  of  whom  it 
is  adorned.  On  the  inner  face  are  figures  of  James  I.,  Queen  Anne  of  Den- 
mark, and  Charles  I.  The  'Great  Courl^  which  is  not  quite  rectangular,  is 
325-345  ft.  long  and  255-285  ft.  wide.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  Chapel  (open 
11-12  and  2-3),  built  in  the  Tudor  period;  it  contains  good  carved  wood- 
work and  numerous  statues  and  busts,   the  finest  of  which  is  that  of    Sir 


St.  John's  College.         CAMBRIDGE.  57.  Route.     445 

Isaac  Newton  by  Roubiliac.  The  windows  are  modern.  To  the  W.  of 
the  chapel  is  Jung  Edicard's  Touei\  with  a  statue  of  Edward  III.  The 
passage  below  this  tower  leads  to  the  smaller  Fellotcs'  Garden,  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  court  is  the  Ilnll.,  a  handsome  room,  containing  portraits 
of  Newton,  Bacon,  Dryden,  and  other  eminent  alumni,  and  a  line  portrait 
of  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  (aged  six)  by  Reynolds.  To  the  S.  of  the  Hall 
are  the  two  Combination  Rooms^  corresponding  to  the  Common  Rooms  at 
Oxford,  and  belnw  these  is  the  huge  Kitchen,  in  which  dinner  is  cooked 
daily  for  700  persons.  —  The  passa.ce  between  the  hall  and  the  kitchen 
leads  into  the  Cloister  or  Neville's  Court,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
covered  arcades.  On  the  W.  side  is  the  'Library^  built  by  Wren  in  1676 
(open  2-3)  and  containing  100,000  books  and  2000  MSS.  The  interior  is 
admirably  fitted  up,  and  the  oaken  book-cases  are  adorned  with  carvings 
by  Gibbfins.  At  the  S.  end  is  a  line  "Statue  of  Lord  Byron  by  Thor- 
laldsen,  and  round  the  rooms  are  busts  of  other  famous  members  of  the 
college.  The  MSS.  of  several  of  Milton"s  poems  are  exhibited  in  a  glass- 
case.  The  Vestibule  (entr.  in  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  court)  contains  Ro- 
man antiquities  found  in  England.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Cloister  Court  is 
the  New  or  Kin c/'s  Court.,  the  W.  gateway  of  which  leads  to  a  bridge  over 
the  Cam  ('View  of  the  Backs  and  of  St.  John's)  and  to  a  stately  "Avenue 
of  Limes.  —  On  the  other  side  of  Trinity  St.  ,  opposite  the  Entrance 
Gateway,  are  two  other  small  courts  belonging  to  Trinity,  built  by  Z>r.  Whew- 
ell  (d.  1862)  and  known  as  the  Master  s  Courts. 

Bentley  and  Whewell  were  Masters  of  Trinity,  and  the  long  list  of  its 
famous  members  includes  the  names  of  Newton,  Bacon,  Porson,  Pearson, 
Dryden,  Cowley,  Herbert,  Macaulay,  Byron,  Thackeray,  and  Tennyson. 
The  lirst-floor  rooms  on  the  N.  side  of  the  King's  Gateway  were  Newtons, 
and  those  below  were  Thackeray's.  The  groundtloor  rooms  next  the  chapel 
were  occupied  by  Macaulay,  and  Byron  had  rooms  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Cloister  Court  (first  floor,  central  staircase).  Tennyson  lived  out  of  college. 

To  the  N.,  Trinity  is  adjoined  by  *St.  John's  College  (PI.  B,2),  the 
second  in  size  of  the  Cambridge  colleges,  founded  in  1511  by  Lady 
Margaret  Beaufort,  mother  of  Henry  Yll.  It,  however,  represents 
a  foundation  even  earlier  than  that  of  Peterhouse,  having  succeeded 
JSt.  John's  Hospital,  established  on  this  site  in  the  12th  century. 

St.  John's  consists  of  four  courts.  We  enter  the  First  Court  by  a 
handsouie  (iateicay,  with  a  statue  of  St.  John.  On  the  N.  is  the  Chapel., 
a  modern  Dec.  building  by  Scott  (12-1  and  2-3).  The  interior  is  elaborately 
adorned  with  carving  and  coloured  marbles,  and  contains  several  monu- 
ments removed  from  the  old  chapel.  The  'Hall.,  on  the  W.  side  of  this 
court,  is  a  long  oak-panelled  room,  with  a  line  roof  and  numerous  por- 
traits, including  Wordsworth  and  Prof.  Palmer  (in  Arabic  costume*,  comp, 
p.  19).  —  The  Second  Court  (1595-1620),  the  brick  of  which  has  assumed 
a  beautiful  plura-red  hue,  has  been  pronounced  by  Mr.  Ruskin  the  most 
perfect  in  the  University.  The  long  Combination  Room  is  on  the  N.  side, 
where  also  is  a  doorway  leading  to  the  gardens  of  the  ifusters  Lodge. 
The  passage  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  this  court  leads  to  the  Chapel  Court. 
—  The  Library  (12-3),  which  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Thikd  Court,  con- 
tains over  3o,()00  printed  books  (many  incunabula)  and  400  MSS;  among 
its  treasures  are  a  velliim  copy  of  Coverdalo's  Bible  and  an  Irish  Psalter. 
From  the  W.  side  of  this  court  a  covered  bridge  (Bridge  of  Si;.;hs)  leads 
across  the  river  to  the  New  Court,  which  is  of  stone.  —  From  cither 
the  third  or  the  fourth  court  we  may  enter  the  well-kept  *  College  Grounds. 
The  Fellows''  Garden  is  planted  with  trees  in  the  form  of  a  cathedral.  — 
The  roll  of  fame  at  St.  John's,  almost  as  long  as  that  of  Trinity,  comprises 
the  names  of  Roger  Ascham,  Lord  Burleigh,  Ben  Junson,  Abp.  Sandvs,  Gil- 
bert, Stillinglleet,  Herrick,  Lord  StralTord,  Lord  Falkland,  Matthew"  Prior, 
Bentley,  Erasmus  Darwin,  Kirke  White,  Henry  Martyn,  Rowland  Hill, 
Home  Tooke,  Wordsworth,  William  Wilberforce',  and  Lord  Palmerston. 

In  Madingley  Road,  beyond  the  new  portion  of  St.  John's,  the  large 
new  Westminster  College  of  the  rresbijterian  Church  of  England  is  being  erected. 


446     Route  57.  CAMBRIDGE.  Jesus  College. 

The  red  building  opposite  St.  John's,  in  English  Gothic  style, 
contains  the  Divinity  and  Literary  Schools,  opened  in  1879.  Adja- 
cent is  All  Saints  Memorial  Cross,  marking  the  site  of  Old  All  Saints 
Church,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  Kirke  White  was  buried. 

Turning  to  the  left,  we  soon  reach  Bridge  St.  and  the  *Round 
Church  {St.  Sepulchre's;  PI.  10),  an  early  -  Norman  building  of 
1101 ,  the  oldest  of  the  four  extant  round  churches  of  England 
(comp.  pp.  255,  451 ;  keys  at  58  Park  St.).  —  Behind  the  Round 
Church  is  the  Union  (see  p.  228),  containing  a  fine  debating-hall, 
reading,  writing,  and  smoking  rooms,  and  a  library  of  25,000  vols. 

Following  Bridge  St.  towards  the  left,  we  pass  St.  Clement's 
Church  (PI.  6 ;  B,  2)  and  cross  a  bridge  affording  a  view  of 
St.  John's  College.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  bridge,  is  Magdalene 
College  (PI.  B,  1,  2;  pron.  Maudlin),  founded  in  1542  on  the  site 
of  a  Benedictine  hostel  or  school  for  monks. 

The  chief  interest  of  this  college  is  the  'Pepysian  Building  in  the 
Second  Court.  It  contains  the  valuable  library  bequeathed  by  Samuel  Pepy.s, 
including  the  cypher  MS.  of  his  famous  'Diary",  the  key  to  which  was 
discovered  by  Lord  Grenville  in  1825  (visitors  not  admitted  unless  accom- 
panied by  a  fellow).  Many  of  the  other  MSS.  and  early  printed  works  are 
also  of  great  interest.  —  Among  the  most  distinguished  members  of  Magda- 
lene are  Archbishops  Grindal,   Ussher,  and  Cranmer,  and  Samuel  Pepys. 

Beyond  Magdalene  are  the  churches  of  St.  Giles  (PI.  B,  1)  and  St.  Peter 
(PI.  A,  1).  A  little  farther  on  are  the  County  Court  (PI.  12;  A,  1)  and 
County  Gaol,  adjoining  the  Castle  Mound,  a  singular  artiticial  elevation, 
on  which  stood  the  keep,  the  only  relic  of  the  castle  founded  by  William 
the  Conqueror.  —  About  3/4  M.  to  the  W.  is  the   University  Observatory. 

We  may  now  return  by  Bridge  St.,  passing  St.  Sepulchre's, 
and  turning  to  the  left  into  Jesus  Lane,  which  leads  to  *Jesus  Col- 
lege (PI.  D,  2),  founded  in  1497  on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine 
nunnery.  [Or  we  may  follow  Chesterton  Lane,  to  the  right,  beyond 
Magdalene,  cross  the  Cam,  not  far  from  the  University  Boat  Houses 
(p.  440),  and  follow  the  road  over  the  common  to  Jesus  Lane.] 

This  picturesque  and  extensive  college  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
its  own  *  Grounds.  The  most  interesting  of  its  buildings  is  the  'Chapel 
(open  11-12  and  3-4),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  second  or  Cloister  Court,  Avhich 
was  originally  the  church  of  the  nunnery,  though  now  shorn  of  two-thirds 
of  its  nave.  The  transepts  contain  some  late-Norman  work;  the  rest  of 
the  building  is  E.E.,  Avith  Perp.  additions.  The  stained-glass  windows 
in  the  transepts  are  by  Morris  and  Burne-.Jones.  Among  eminent  alumni 
are  Sir  Thomas  Elyot,  Cranmer,  Sterne,  and  Coleridge. 

By  turning  to  the  left  on  leaving  Jesus  College  we  soon  reach  Mid- 
summer Common,  to  the  N.  of  which,  on  the  Cam,  are  the  University  Boat 
Hotises.  —  About  3/4  M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  road  to  Newmarket,  are  the  ruins 
of  Barnwell  Abbey,  dating  from  the  E.E.  period. 

From  Jesus  College,  opposite  which  is  the  modern  church  of 
All  Saints,  we  retrace  our  steps  to  the  end  of  Jesus  Lane  and  turn 
to  the  left.  Sidney  Sussex  College  (PI.  C,  3),  which  we  thus  reach, 
was  founded  by  the  Countess  of  Sussex,  daughter  of  Sir  William 
Sidney,  in  1596,  on  the  site  of  a  suppressed  Franciscan  monastery. 

The  Library  contains  a  bust  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  who  Avas  a  student 
here;  and  there  is  an  excellent  contemporary  portrait  of  him,  in  crayon, 
in  the  Hall.  The  pleasant  Gardens  are  reached  from  the  N.W.  corner  of 
the  left  court.     Thomas  Fuller  was  also  a  student  at  this  college. 


New  Museums.  CAMBRIDGE.  57.  Route.     447 

Sidney  St.  ends  at  Market  Street  (PI.  C,  3)  and  Holy  Trinity 
Church  (PI.  11),  with  its  lofty  Dec.  spire.  Farther  on,  Hobson 
Street,  named  after  the  carrier  (p.  441),  diverges  to  the  left.  To  the 
right  is  St.  Andrew's  Church  (PI.  3;  C,  3"),  opposite  the  entrance  to 
Christ's  College  (PL  C,  3),  founded  in  1506  by  Margaret,  Countess 
of  Richmond  (p.  445),  mother  of  Henry  YII.,  but  completely  modern- 
ized in  the  18th  century.   The  Tudor  arms  are  above  the  gateway. 

The  buildings  of  this  college  are  uninteresting,  but  the  "Gardens  are 
among  the  prettiest  in  Cambridge.  They  contain  a  mulberry-tree  said  to 
have  been  planted  by  Milton  in  1632.  The  poets  rooms  were  on  the  left 
(N.)  side  of  the  main  court,  on  the  first  floor  of  the  staircase  next  the 
entrance  to  the  chapel.  The  college  possesses  some  very  fine  old  plate. 
Besides  Milton,  it  has  on  its  books  the  names  of  Sir  Philip  Sidney,  Leland 
(the  antiquary),  Hugh  Latimer,  Cudvvorth,  Francis  Quarles,  Paley,  and 
Charles  Darwin.    Portraits  of  several  of  these  hang  in  the  Hall. 

Farther  on  in  the  same  street,  also  to  the  left,  is  Emmanuel 
College  (PI.  D,  4),  founded  by  Sir  Walter  Mildmay  in  1584,  and 
intended  for  the  maintenance  of  Puritanical  principles.  Only  a 
small  part  of  the  original  buildings  remain. 

The  Chapel^  entered  from  the  cloister  opposite  the  entrance,  was  built 
by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  in  1678-88,  and  contains  a  fine  altar-piece  by 
Amiconi.  Above  the  cloister  is  a  Picture  Gallery,  containing  some  good 
portraits.  The  Library  possesses  a  few  rare  MSS.,  and  the  college  al.'^o 
boasts  of  a  silver  goblet,  the  'Founder's  Cup",  ascribed  to  Benvenuto  Cellini. 
The  Gardens  contain  a  large  pond.  Bishop  Hall,  Archbishop  Bancroft, 
John  Harvard  (founder  of  Harvard  College),  Cudworth,  Sir  William  Temple, 
and  also  several  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  were  students  of  Emmanuel. 

Emmanuel  faces  the  end  of  Downing  St.,  in  which,  to  the  right, 
is  the  group  of  buildings  belonging  to  the  scientific  and  medical 
department  of  the  University,  generally  known  as  the  New  Museums 
(PI.  16;  C,  4),  and  comprising  laboratories,  lecture -rooms,  and 
collections  of  various  kinds.  Among  the  most  prominent  members 
of  the  group  are  the  admirably  equipped  Cavendish  Laboratory, 
abutting  on  Free  School  Lane,  behind  St.  Benets  Church,  and 
the  new  Chemical  Laboratory,  in  Pembroke  St.  (PL  C,  4).  —  The 
iron  gate  in  Downing  Street,  opposite  the  Anatomical  Museum 
(PL  2;  C,  4),  opens  on  a  pleasant  shady  avenue,  leading  to  (V4^^0 
Downing  College  (PL  1),  6\  founded  in  1800  from  funds  left  by 
Sir  George  Downing  (d,  1717),  and  consisting  of  a  group  of  unin- 
teresting modern  buildings  in  a  fine  park.  We  may  return  hence 
through  Fitzwilliam  St.  (PL  C ,  5)  to  Trumpington  St.  (p.  441). 

In  Hills  Road  (beyond  PL  D,  6)  is  Cavendish  College,  founded 
in  1873  to  afford  a  university  education  at  an  earlier  age  and  at  a 
smaller  cost  than  at  the  ordinary  colleges.  It  was  closed  in  1891, 
and  is  now  a  non-conformist  training-college. 

On  the  Huntingdon  Road  (beyond  PI.  A,  1),  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
centre  of  the  town,  is  Girton  College,  established  in  1S69  for  the  higher 
education  of  women.  Women  who  have  fulfilled  the  requisite  conditions 
as  to  residence  (at  Newnham  or  Girton),  etc  ,  incumbent  upon  members  of 
the  University  are  now  admitted  to  the  Previous  Examination  and  the  Tri- 
poses, but  not  to  the  examinations  for  the  ordinary  degree  (comp.  p.  227). 

On  the  Trumpington  Eoad,   to  the  S.,  are  the  Botanic  Gardens. 


448    Route  58.  ELY.  From  Camhridge 

About  2V2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Cambridge  lies  the  village  of  Oranichesiei\ 
which  is  believed  by  some  authorities  to  be  the  real  representative  of 
Grantabrycge  (p.  440).  On  the  river  here  is  'Byron's  Pool',  40  ft.  deep. 
Madingley  and  Cherry  Hinton  are  other  favourite  points  for  the  'con- 
stitutionals'' of  university  men. 

From  Cambridge  to  Ely^  see  below,  to  Huntingdon.,  see  p.  370. 

58.  From  Cambridge  to  Ely  and  Hunstanton. 

Great  Eastern  Railwat  to  (I41/2  M.)  Ely  in  20-26  min.  (25.  9d.,  Is.  Zd.):, 
to  (56  M.)  Hunstanton  in  2-2^2  hrs.  (IDs.  6c?.,  4s.  81/20?.). 

Cambridge^  see  R.  57.  As  we  leave  the  town  we  have  a  view,  to 
the  left,  of  the  Cam.  alive  in  term-time  with  the  College  Eights.  The 
line  traverses  the  unattractive  Fen  District.  —  5^2  M.  Waterbeach. 

141/2  M.  Ely  (Lamb.,  well  spoken  of;  Bell;  Angel.,  at  the  station; 
Minster  Temperance;  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms),  a  small  city  with 
8000  inhah.,  is  situated  on  a  slight  eminence  rising  ahove  the  fens 
and  formerly  surrounded  by  water.  Its  name  is  said  to  be  taken  from 
the  eels  in  the  river. 

The  Isle  of  Ely  is  memorable  as  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Saxons, 
who  maintained  themselves  here,  under  the  leadership  of  Hereward,  the  'Last 
of  the  English\  from  1066  to  1071. 

As  we  approach  the  cathedral  we  pass  the  Great  Gateway  of  the 
old  monastery,  now  used  by  the  King's  School. 

The  ^Cathedral  of  Ely,  'one  of  the  very  largest  and  most  im- 
posing, one  of  the  most  individual,  and  distinctly  the  most  varied, 
in  England'  (Mrs.  Van  Rensselaer)^  occupies  the  site  of  an  abbey 
founded  here  by  St.  Etheldreda  in  673.  The  chief  internal  di- 
mensions are:  length  520  ft.,  breadth  77  ft.,  length  of  transepts 
I78V2  ft-,  height  of  nave  62  ft.,  height  of  choir  70  ft.  The  doors 
are  open  9-1  and  2-6  (2-4  in  winter);  adm.  to  the  choir  6c?.,  to  the 
AV.  tower  6d.    Daily  services  at  8.30  and  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m. 

The  existing  building  was  begun  in  1083  by  the  first  Norman  abbot; 
and  the  E.  half  at  least  was  complete  in  its  original  form  when  the 
see  of  Ely  was  created  in  1109.  The  W.  part  of  the  nave,  including  the 
W.  Tower,  was  finished  about  1180,  and  the  Galilee,  or  W.  Porch,  was 
added  before  1215.  Bishop  :N^orthwold  (1229-54)  pulled  down  the  E.  end 
of  the  church  and  added  the  present  Presbytery.  The  Central  Tower, 
which  belonged  to  the  original  church,  fell  in  1322,  and  advantage  was 
taken  of  this  opportunity  to  construct  the  beautiful  Dec.  Octagon  (1322-8). 
The  Lady  Chapel  dates  from  1321-49,  and  the  Perp.  Chantries  adjoining 
the  retro-choir  were  added  between  1486  and  1550.  A  new  spire  was 
erected  on  the  W.  tower  at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  the  weight  of  which 
may  have  caused  the  collapse  of  the  N.W.  transept,  though  some  authorities 
think  the  latter  was  never  linished.  The  whole  building  has  been  restored 
since  1847  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  G.  G.  Scott. 

Exterior.  The  most  striking  feature  is  the  castellated  W.  Tower.,  which 
is  unlike  any  other  cathedral-tower  in  England,  and  to  some  extent  sug- 
gests military  rather  than  ecclesiastical  architecture.  The  greater  part  of 
it  is  Transition  Xorman  (1174-89),  but  the  octagonal  top  and  turrets  were 
added  in  the  Decorated  period.  The  want  of  its  N.  wing  destroys  the 
symmetry  of  the  W.  front  (comp.  above).  The  eCfect  of  the  Central  Oc- 
togon(see  p.  xlix)  is  good  from  all  points  of  view.    The  E.  End  is  tine  E.E. 

Interior.  We  enter  by  the  E.E.  "Galilee,  or  W.  Porch,  and  find  our- 
selves below  the  W.  Tower.    To  the  right  is  the  S.W.  Transept  (Transition 


to  Hunstanton.  ELY.  58.  Route.     449 

Norman),  the  Baptistery,  with  the  apsidal  chapel  of  St.  Catharine,  opening 
from  its  E.  aisle.     The  N.W.  Transept  is  wanting  (see  p.  448), 

The  "Nave  (208  ft.  long)  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  late-Norman  style. 
The  roof,  originally  llat,  was  raised  to  the  present  angle  on  the  con- 
struction of  the  Octagon,  and  has  been  painted  by  Mr.  LKstrange  and  Mr. 
Gambler  Parry  (comp.  p.  172).  In  the  S.  aisle,  near  the  Prior's  Doorway, 
is  a  Saxon  Cross,  in  memory  of  Ovinus,  Etheldreda's  steward.  The  S.  Door- 
way, at  the  K.  end  of  this  aisle,  was  originally  the  monks'  entrance  from 
the  cloisters.     The  stained  glass  is  modern. 

The  nave  ends  at  the  **Octagon,  a  unique  and  very  beautiful  fea- 
ture of  Ely  Cathedral.  It  is  due  to  the  genius  of  Alan  de  Walsingham 
(1322-28),  who  seems  to  have  been  the  first  to  conceive  the  possibility 
of  such  a  noble  substitute  as  this  for  the  usual  narrow  and  lofty  opening 
of  a  central  tower.  The  lantern  above  is  a  clever  piece  of  timber-work, 
142  ft.  above  the  flooring.  The  polychrome  decoration  is  by  Mr.  Gambler 
Parry,  and  the  stained-glass  windows  are  also  modern.  The  roof  forms 
'the  only  Gothic  dome  in  existence'.  —  The  Great  Transepts,  to  the  N. 
and  S.  of  the  Octagon,  contain  the  only  remains  of  the  earliest  Norman 
church  (see  p.  44S),  mainly  on  the  groundfloor.  The  E.  aisle  of  the  S. 
arm  is  occupied  by  the  Chapter  Library. 

The  *Ghoir  is  separated  from  the  Octagon  by  a  modern  oaken  screen. 
The  E.  half  of  the  choir  is  the  older,  dating  from  1252  (E.E.),  while  the 
three  elaborate  W.  bays  are  a  century  later  (Dec).  The  upper  row  of 
stalls  dates  from  the  14th  cent.,  but  the  carved  panels  and  the  lower 
stalls  are  modern,  as  are  also  the  reredos,  altar,  and  stained  glass.  There 
is  no  Episcopal  Throne,  the  bishop  occupying  the  stall  usually  assigned 
to  the  dean.  Amons:  the  most  interesting  monuments  are  those  of  Bishops 
de  Luda  (1290-98),  Barnet  (1366-73),  Northwold  (1229-54),  Redman  (1501-6), 
and  Hotham  (1316-37).  At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  the  Chantry  of 
Bishop  Alcock  (1486-1500),  founder  of  Jesus  College,  Cambridge  (p.  446); 
and  at  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  is  that  of  Bishop  West  (1515-34).  In  the 
S.  aisle  is  the  monument  of  Professor  Selicyn  (d.  18T3)  and  in  the  retro- 
choir  that  of  Card,  de  Luxembourg  (1431-43).  On  the  lloor  of  the  S.  aisle 
is  a  curious  piece  of  ancient  (early-Norman  V)  sculpture. 

From  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  N.  Transept  we  enter  the  Lad\'  Chapel, 
an  elaborate  specimen  of  the  Dec.  style  (1321-49),  now  used  as  the  parish 
church  of  Holy  Trinity.  —  Extensive  view. from  the  top  of  the  W.  Tower. 

—  The  remains  of  the  Cloisters,   to   the  S,  of  the  nave,  are  scanty. 

The  remains  of  the  Moxastic  Buildings,  now  in  great  part  occupied 
as  private  dwellings,  include  the  Guesten  Hall  (now  the  Deanery),  the 
Prior's  Lodge  (with  a  Norman  crypt),  Prior  Crawdens  Chapel,  and  part  of 
the  late-Norman  /nrirmary.  The  Bishop''s  Palace,  to  the  W.  of  the  Cathe- 
dral, dates  from  the  15-16th  centuries. 

The  cathedral-precincts  are  adjoined  by  a  pleasant,  well-wooded  Park. 

From  Elv  to  Thetford  and  Norwich,  54  M.,  railway  in  1^/4  hr.  (fares 
8s.  8d.,  4s.  i^l-zd.).  Beyond  (16  M.)  Brandon,  which  gives  name  to  the  Dukes 
of  Hamilton  and  Brandon,  the  line  traverses  heath  and  plantations  of  fir. 

—  23  M.  Thetford  (Bell),  an  ancient  town  with  4250  inhab.,  was  formerly 
the  seat  of  the  kings  and  bishops  of  E.  Anglia.  The  Castle  Hill,  a  huge 
artificial  mound,  100  ft.  high  and  1(X)0  ft.  round.  Is  supposed  to  be  a  Ro- 
man or  British  fortification.  There  are  also  scanty  ruins  of  a  Priory. 
Thomas  Paine,  author  of  'The  Age  of  Reason',  was  born  at  Thetford  in 
1737.  —  From  (27i/j  M.)  Roudham  a  line  runs  N.  to  Swafhain  (4  31.  from 
the  picturesque  ruined  priory  at  Castle  Acre),  passing  Walton,  near  which 
is  Wayland  Wood,  said  to  lie  the  scene  of  the  'Babes  in  the  Wood".  — 
38  M.  Attleborough  (Royal)  has  an  interesting  church.  —  At  (43'/2  M.) 
Wymondham  (King's  Head)  is  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  Norfolk,  be- 
longing to  an  old  Priory.  Robert  Ket,  a  tanner  of  this  town ,  was  the 
leader  of  the  brief  agricultural  insurrection  in  1549.  A  line  runs  hence 
to  Dereham  (King's  Arms),  the  fine  church  of  which  contains  the  tomb  of 
the  poet  Cowper  (d.  ItOO).  George  Borrow  (1803-81)  was  born  at  E.  Dereham. 
From  Dereham  lines  run  to  Fakenham  (p.  456)  and  SwaflTiam  (see  above). 

—  54  M.  Norwich,  see  p.  453. 

Baedeker'3  Great  Britain.     4th  Edit.  29 


450     Route  5S.  HUNSTANTON. 

Branch-lines  also  run  from  Ely  to  Neiomarket  (p.  458)  and  to  March 
(for  Wisbech,  Spalding,  Lincoln,  Doncaster,  Peterborough,  etc.). 

As  the  train  leaves  Ely  we  see  the  cathedral  to  the  left.  —  41  M. 
Lynn  or  King's  Lynn  (Qlohe;  Dukes  Head;  CozerCs  Temperance)^ 
an  ancient  town  with  18,250  inhab.,  lies  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Ouse^  its  harbour  being  connected  with  the  sea  by  a  waterway. 
Among  the  chief  points  of  interest  are  St.  Margaret's  Church  (1091- 
1119;  chancel  13th,  nave  18th  cent.;  restored  in  1875),  containing 
two  of  the  largest  and  finest  brasses  in  England;  the  Red  Mount 
Chapel  (Perp.),  supposed  to  have  been  a  wayside  chapel  for  pil- 
grims to  Walsingham;  St.  Nicholas's  Chapel;  the  Jacobean  Guild- 
hall; the  Southgate;  and  the  Greyfriars'  Tower.  Frances  Burney 
(Madame  d'Arblay  ;  1752-1840)  was  born  at  Lynn,  and  Eugene  Aram, 
the  murderer  (d.  1759),  was  usher  in  the  old  grammar-school  here. 

From  Lynn  branch-lines  run  W.  to  Spalding  (p.  437)  and  E.  to  Swaff- 
ham  and  Dereham  (see  p.  449).  The  former  passes  (61/2  M.)  Terrington  and 
(8V2  M.)  Walpole  St.  Peter''s,  both  ^vith  fine  Perp.  churches,  —  From  Lynn 
to  Fakenham  and  Norwich^  see  pp.  456,  455. 

44  M.  North  Wootton  is  the  station  for  (I3/4  M.)  *Castle  Rising, 
an  important  mediseval  fortress,  with  a  Norman  keep,  surrounded 
by  earthworks  of  Roman  or  British  origin.  The  interesting  Church 
dates  from  the  12th  cent.  (late-Norman).  —  About  21/9  M.  to  the 
E.  of  (47  M.)  Wolferton  is  Sandringham  Hall,  the  country-house  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales.  The  'Norwich  Gates',  at  the  main  entrance  of 
the  Parfc  (open  in  the  absence  of  the  family),  are  fine  specimens  of 
modern  ornamental  iron-work.  —  491/2^1-  -Dcrsm^/iam  (Alexandra) 
and  (51  M.)  Snettisham  (Royal)  have  interesting  churches.  —  54  M. 
Heacham  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Wells  (see  below). 

56  M.  Hunstanton  St.  Edmunds  (Sandringham;  Golden  Lion; 
Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms)  is  a  rising  watering-place ,  with  good 
bathing,  a  pier,  and  a  promenade.  Near  Old  Hunstanton  (L'Estrange 
Arms),  which  lies  1  M.  to  the  N.,  i&  Hunstanton  Hall,  which  has 
been  in  the  possession  of  the  L'Estrange  family  for  800  years.  The 
Church  of  Old  Hunstanton  is  also  interesting. 

From  Hunstastox  to  Wells,  20  M.,  railway  in  l-l'/2  hr.  (fares  3s. 
Ud.,  I5.  S^/-zd.).  —  2  M.  Heacham  (see  above).  14  M.  Burnham  Market.  At 
Bm-nham  Thorpe^  1  M.  to  the  S..  Lord  Nelson  (1758-1805)  was  born;  at 
Burnham  Overt/  the  font  in  which  he  was  baptized  is  preserved  in  a  private 
garden;  and  at  Burnham  Norton,  are  a  Perp.  church  with  a  round  tower, 
and  a  ruined  priory.  —  Near  (18  M.)  Holkham  (Victoria)  is  Holkham  Park, 
the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Leicester.  —  20  M.  Wells  (Globe;  Crown)  is  a  small 
seaport.    From  Wells  to  Fakenham,  see  p.  456. 

59.  From  London  to  Colchester,  Ipswich,  and  Norwich. 

Great  Eastern  Railway  to  (52  M.)  Colchester  in  IV4-2V4  hrs.  (fares 
9s.  9d.,  As.  4i/2d.);  to  (69  M.)  Ipswich  in  IV^-^  hrs.  (fares  13s.,  5s.  9V2C?.) ; 
to  (114  M.)  Norwich  in  3-4 hrs.  (fares  20s.  6d.,  9s.  5V2d.).  —  Norwich  may 
also  be  reached  via  Cambridge  and  Ely  in  3V2-5hrs.  (comp.  RR.  56,57; 
fares  as  above). 

The  run  from  Liverpool  Street  Station  to  (12'/2  M.)  Romford 
(White  Hart),  a  small  town  (8400  inhab.)    noted    for  its  ale,   is 


COLCHESTER.  59.  Route.     451 

uninteresting.  Farther  on,  the  district  is  wooded  and  at  places 
pretty.  18  M,  Brentwood.  21  M.  Shenfield  is  the  juiiction  of  lines 
to  Wickford  and  Southend  (p.  459)  and  to  Woodham  Ferris,  South- 
minster^  Burnham,  and  Maldon.  —  30  M.  Chelmsford  ('Saracen's 
Head),  with  11,000  inhab.,  is  the  county-town  of  Essex.  The 
church  contains  a  curious  double  arch  (N.  wall  of  chancel).  —  From 
(39  M.)  Wiiham  lines  diverge  to  Braintree,  Dunmow,  and  Bishops 
Stortford  (see  p.  439) ,  and  to  Maldon  (see  above).  —  42  M.  Kel- 
vedon,  the  birthplace  of  Spurgeon.  —  From  (47  M.)  Mark's  Tey 
branch -lines  run  to  Haverhill  and  Bury  St.  Edmunds  (p.  459). 

About  21/2  M.  from  Hulstead,  on  the  line  to  Haverhill,  is  Little  Maple- 
stead,  with  one  of  the  four  round  churches  of  England  (comp.  pp.  255.  446). 
At  (9V2  M.)  Castle  Hedingham  is  a  line  Norman  castle. 

On  the  line  to  Bury  St.  Edmunds  we  pass  (12  M.)  Sudbury  (Rose  d: 
Crown),  a  small  town  with  three  fine  churches  (the  birthplace  of  Gains- 
borough, 1727-88).  and  (15  M.)  Long  Melford. 

52  M.  Colchester  (The  Cups;  George;  Bed  Lion;  Rail.  Rfmt. 
Rooms),  an  ancient  place  on  the  Colne,  with  34,600  inhab.,  is  the 
largest  town  in  Essex  and  contains  many  interesting  remains. 

Colchester  (A.  S.  Colneceasler)  has  been  identified  with  the  Roman 
Camulodunum ,  which  had  already  been  a  place  of  importance  with  the 
Britons,  and  was  made  the  first  Roman  colony  in  the  island  (A.D.  50). 
Eleven  years  later  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Iceni,  but  after  the  defeat  of 
Boadicea  it  was  rebuilt  and  surrounded  with  walls.  Under  the  Xormans 
it  was  also  an  important  stronghold,  as  is  evidenced  by  its  castle,  which 
was  held  by  Louis  the  Dauphin  in  1217,  and  captured  by  General  Fairfax 
in  1648.  Comp.  'Colchester',  by  Rev.  E.  L.  Cutis  (Historic  Towns  Series; 
188S).  —  Colchester  oysters,  whicli  have  long  been  famous,  are  fished  at 
Bright  ling  sea,  11  M.  to  the  S.E. 

The  station  on  the  main  line  is  1  M.  from  the  town,  which  we 
may  reach  either  by  road  or  by  a  loop-line  to  St.  Botolph's  Station. 
In  the  former  case  we  pass  tlirough  the  Roman  Walls,  the  line  of 
which  (2  M.),  partly  concealed  by  houses,  is  more  complete  than  that 
of  any  other  Koman  city-walls  in  England. 

To  see  the  wall  we  should  turn  to  the  right  at  the  cattle-market  and 
follow  it  along  the  W.  side,  where  stands  the  ruined  Balcon  ,  the  prin- 
cipal Roman  bastion,  also  called  King  Cole's  Castle,  from  an  as.'ociation 
of  Colchester  with  that  hero  of  nursery  rhyme.  In  this  case  we  may 
make  our  way  to  the  top  of  the  High  St.  via  the  lofty  Water  Tower,  which 
is  the  most  conspicuous  feature  in  Colchester. 

The  *Castle,  the  largest  Norman  keep  in  England,  erected  in 
the  reign  of  William  II.  by  Eudo,  the  king's  steward,  stands  near 
the  foot  of  the  High  St.,  in  a  Public  Park,  opened  in  1892. 

The  castle  is  open  free;  but  a  small  gratuity  is  expected  for  showing 
parts  not  generally  open.  The  keep  measures  168  ft.  by  126  ft.  Its  walls 
vary  in  thickness  from  30  ft.  to  11  ft.  We  enter  by  the  S.  side,  and  visit 
the  Vaults  and  Dungeon.'!.  Fine  view  from  the  top  of  the  walls.  The 
herring-bone  work  of  Roman  tiles  is  striking.  The  Chapel  is  titled  up  as 
a  Museum  (open  10-6),  with  Roman  antiquities  found  in  or  near  Colchester. 

From  the  foot  of  the  High  St.  we  follow  Queen  St.  and  St. 
Botolph  St.  to  the  right  to  reach  St.  Botolph's  Priory,  which  stands 
a  little  to  the  left  of  the  latter  street,  in  the  enclosure  of  St.  Bo- 
tolph's Church.    The  ruins  are  those  of  the  priory  church  and  are 

29* 


452     Route  59.  IPSWICH.  From  London 

ill  the  Norman  style  (ca.  1103);  as  in  the  castle,  Roman  bricks 
have  been  freely  used.  By  turning  to  the  right  at  the  end  of  St. 
Botolph's  Street  we  reach  St.  John's  Green,  with  St.  Johns  Abbey 
Gate  (ca.  1500),  the  only  relic  of  a  large  Benedictine  monastery.  — 
Holy  Trinity  Church  has  a  pre-Norman  tower  partly  constructed  of 
Roman  bricks  and  contains  a  good  specimen  of  the  triangular-head- 
ed Saton  arch.  —  The  Military  Camp,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town, 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  E.  military  district. 

At  Lexden,  2  31.  to  the  W.  of  Colcliester,  are  remains  of  Roman  en- 
trenchments; 3/*  M.  farther  on  is  'King  Cole's  Kitchen\  supposed  to  have 
been  the  Roman  amphitheatre. 

From  Colchester  a  branch -railway  runs  to  (19  M.)  Clacton- on-Sea 
(Royal;  Grand;  Oshorne)  and  (20  M.)  Walton-on-the-Naze  (Marine;  Clifton), 
two   frequented  watering-places   (also    reached  from  London  by  steamer). 

591/9  M.  Manningtree  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  (974  M.) 
Parkeston  (Juay^Gve&t  Eastern  Hotel),  (10^4  M.)  Dcvercourt  (*CU&; 
Pho?nix),  the  S.  suburb  of  Harwich,  with  sea-bathing,  and(llf/4M.) 
Harwich  (Great  Eastern,  Pier,  at  the  harbour;  Three  Cups,  in  the 
town),  a  small  seaport  (8200  inhab.),  with  a  good  harbour,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Stour  and  the  Orwell,  well  known  as  the  starting- 
point  of  the  G.E.R.  steamers  to  Holland  and  Belgium  (p.  xix), 
which  sail  from  Parkeston  Quay  (see  above).  A  steamer  plies  sev- 
eral times  daily  up  the  Orwell  to  (1  hr.)  Ipswich  (see  below).  — 
Beyond  Manningtree  we  see  the  estuary  of  the  Stour  (right).  After 
passing  (63  M.)  Bentley  (junction  of  a  line  to  Hadleigh)  we  come  in 
sight  of  the  estuary  of  the  Oru-ell. 

69  M.  Ipswich  (White  Horse,  Tavern  St.,  celebrated  in  *Pick- 
wick';  Crown <!^' Anchor;  Golden  Lion;  Waterloo ;  Grand;  Temperance ; 
Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  county-town  of  Suffolk,  with  57,360  in- 
hab., is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  estuary  of  the  Orwell.  Above 
Ipswich  (a  corruption  of  the  old  English  Gippeswic^  the  river  is 
named  the  Gipping.  The  harbour  (33  acres),  entered  from  the  Or- 
well by  a  loi'k  300  ft.  in  length,  is  of  growing  importance. 

From  the  station  we  proceed  through  Station  Road  and  Princes 
Street  (tramway  2d.)  to  Cornhill  ,  an  open  space  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  with  the  Town  Hall.  Corn  Exchange,  and  Post  Office. 
Tavern  St.  runs  hence  to  the  right  (E.J,  and  is  continued  by  Carr 
St.,  in  which  is  the  Lyceum  Theatre.  The  tramway  goes  on  past 
St.  Helens  Church  ,  to  the  Derby  Road  Station  of  the  Felixstowe 
railway  (p.  453).  Parallel  to  Tavern  St.,  on  the  S.,  is  the  Butter 
Market,  containing  Sparrowe's  House  (1567),  with  a  pargeted 
facade,  in  which  Charles  II.  is  said  to  have  lain  concealed  after  the 
battle  of  Worcester.  On  the  upper  floor  is  the  Public  Library  (in- 
teresting old  room).  —  From  the  E.  end  of  the  Butter  Market  we 
proceed  to  the  right  through  Upper  Brook  St.,  and  then  to  the  left 
through  Tacket  St.  (with  the  old  Theatre  in  which  Garrick  made 
his  debut)  and  Orwell  Place,  to  Fore  Street,  containing  several 
quaint  old  houses.    —    Proceeding  to  the  S.W.  (right)  from  Fore 


to  Norwich.  NORWICH.  59.  Route.     453 

St.,  through  Salthouse  and  Key  St.,  we  reach  College  St.,  contain- 
ing Wolsey's  Gateway,  the  only  relic  of  a  college  built  by  Card 
Wolsey  (1471-1530),  who  was  born  at  Ipswich. 

In  Tower  St.,  leading  to  the  N.  from  Tavern  St.,  is  the  church 
of  St,  Mary-le-Tower  (rebuilt  1860-68),  with  a  graceful  spire 
176  ft.  high.  By  turning  to  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  street  we 
reach  *St.  Margaret's  Church  (restored).  —  The  Museum,  High  St., 
contains  local  antiquities  and  fossils  (adm.  free).  Adjoining  are  the 
Victoria  Free  Library  and  the  Art  Gallery. 

The  Upper  (free)  and  Lower  (adm.  Qd.)  Arboretum  and  Christ's  Church 
Park  (with  an  interesting  Tudor  mansion)  are  three  pleasant  parks.  A 
visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  agricultural  implement  works  of  Ransomes 
d-  Jefferies  or  of  E.  R.  d  F.  Turner. 

A  branch-line  runs  from  Ipswich  to  (16  M.)  Felixstowe  ('Bath ;  Pier ; 
Ordnance)^  a  seaside  resort,  with  golf-links,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orwell, 
opposite  Harwich.  Circuit-tickets  are  issued  allowing  the  journey  in  one 
direction  to  be  made  by  water. 

From  Ipswich  to   Yarmouth^  see  R.  60. 

81  M.  Stowmarket  (Fox)  has  manufactories  of  gun-cotton  and 
a  church  with  a  curious  wooden  spire.  —  83  M.  Haughley  Road  is 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  Bury  St.  Edmunds  (p.  459)  and  New- 
market (p.  458j.  From  (1001/2  M.)  Tivetshall  a  line  diverges  to 
Bungay,  Beccles  (p.  456),  and  Lowestoft  (p.  456).  Beyond  (110  M.) 
Swainsthorpe  we  catch  a  glimpse,  to  the  right,  of  the  Roman  camp 
at  Caistor.    We  now  enter  the  valley  of  the  Yare. 

114  M.  Norwich.  —  Hotels.  'Royal,  in  the  Market  Place;  itfAius 
Head,  near  the  Cathedral,  E.  &  A.  45.  Qd.;  Xoefolk.  —  Rail.  Rfint.  Rooms. 

Railway  Stations.  The  Victoria  (London,  Ipswich)  and  Thorpe  (Lon- 
don, Yarmouth,  Cromer,  Wells)  Stations,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  city,  belong 
to  the  G.  E.  R.;  the  City  Station,  to  the  X.,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Eastern 
&  Jlidlands  Railway  (Melton,  Constable,  Lynn).  —  Cah  into  the  town  is. 

Steamers  to   Yarmouth,  daily  in  summer,  see  p.  457. 

Norwich,  the  capital  of  Norfolk  and  the  see  of  a  bishop,  with 
101,000  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Wensum.  It  contains  many  in- 
teresting buildings,  and  possesses  large  manufactories  of  mustard 
and  starch  (Colman's ;  2000  hands),  iron-works,  and  breweries. 

Norwich  is  generally  supposed  to  be  the  Caergwenl  of  the  Britons, 
and  the  Roman  Venta  Icenorum,  though  Caistor  (p.  455)  is  a  rival  claim- 
ant. In  1003  the  town  was  destroyed  by  the  Danes,  but  it  was  rebuilt 
and  furnished  with  a  castle  after  the  Xorman  Conquest.  In  1094  the  see 
of  the  bishop  of  E.  Anglia  was  transferred  from  Thetford  to  Norwich.  A 
fillip  to  its  prosperity  was  given  by  the  settlement  of  Flemish  weavers  here 
in  the  14th  cent.,   but   the  woollen    industry   has   now  almost  deserted  it. 

The  *Cathedral  lies  towards  the  E.  side  of  the  city  ,  1/9  ^^-  to 
the  N.  of  the  Thorpe  Station.  It  was  begun  in  1096,  and  has  pre- 
served its  original  Norman  plan  more  closely  than  any  other 
cathedral  in  England.  The  Close  is  entered  by  St.  Ethelhert's  Gate 
(ca.  1275;  upper  part  modern)  or  by  the  Erpingham  Gate  (1420). 
The  Cathedral  is  407  ft,  long.  72  ft.  wide.  178  ft.  across  the  tran- 
septs, and  691/2  (nave)  to  83V2  f*-  (choir)  high.  Nave  open  free; 
choir,  transepts,  and  cloisters  il-1  and  2-4.30  (Sat.  2-2.45  and 
4-6),  6rf. ;  daily  services  at  10  a.m.  and  5  (Sat.  3)  p.m. 


454     Route  59.  NORWICH. 

The  building  was  begun  by  the  first  Bishop  of  Norwich,  Herbert  de 
Losinga  (1091-1119),  who  completed  the  choir  and  transepts  and  began  the 
nave  (comp.  p.  xxxvii).  The  latter  was  finished  by  his  successor  (ca.  1140). 
The  clerestory  of  the  choir  was  rebuilt  in  1356-69 ;  and  the  vaulting  of  the 
nave  and  choir  were  added  in  the  15th  century.  In  the  same  century  the  W. 
Front  was  altered  (large  Perp.  window  inserted)  and  the  spire  rebuilt. 
The  cloisters  were  begun  at  the  end  of  the  13th  cent,  and  completed  in 
1430.  The  most  prominent  features  are  the  fine  Norman  ''Tower.,  surmounted 
by  a  lofty  Spire  (315  ft.),  and  the  apsidal  termination  of  the  Choir.  The 
best  general  view  is  from  the  S.E. 

Interior.  The  'Navk  (252  ft.  long)  is  Norman  throughout,  except  its 
fine  lierne-vaulting  (15th  cent.)  and  the  inserted  Perp.  windows.  The 
large  open  arches  of  the  triforium  resemble  those  of  Southwell  Minster 
(p.  4-37).  Through  the  small  central  aperture  in  the  roof  the  figure  of 
an  angel  was  let  down  on  certain  festivals.  Two  bays  in  the  S.  aisle  were 
converted  into  a  chantry  by  Bishop  Nix  (1501-36).  In  the  N.  aisle  is  the 
monument  oi  Sir  Thomas  Wyndhani  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  —  The 
two  E.  bays  of  the  nave,  shut  off  by  the  Organ  Screen  to  form  the  Ante 
Choir,  contain  the  ''Stalls  (15th  cent.);  the  misereres  are  very  quaint. 
The  Central  Tower,  with  its  fine  open  lantern,  is  Norman,  and  rests  on 
four  tall  circular  arches.  The  curious  and  interesting  carved  bosses  of 
the  ceiling  throughout  the  Cathedral  deserve  attention.  —  The  Transepts 
resemble  the  nave  in  general  character,  and  also  have  a  fine  vaulted 
ceiling  (16th  , cent.).  The  N.  Transept  is  adjoined  on  the  E.  by  a  small 
apsidal  Chap  .  In  the  S.  Transept  is  a  monument  to  Bp.  Bathurst  (d.  183T), 
by  Chantrey.  In  the  vestry  adjoining  this  transept  is  an  interesting  Altar 
Piece.,  ascribed  to  an  English  painter  of  the  14th  century. 

The  apsidal  ending  of  the  *Choir  is  as  effective  from  within  as  from 
without,  and  recalls  the  churches  of  the  Continent  more  than  any  other 
church  of  this  size  in  England.  The  original  ground-plan  remains  unal- 
tered, but  the  clerestory  has  been  rebuilt,  the  vaulting  added,  and  the 
main  arches  changed  from  Norman  to  Perpendicular,  Behind  the  altar  are 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  stone  episcopal  Sedes.  The  present  Throne  (1895) 
and  Pulpit  commemorate  Bp.  Pelham  and  Dean  Goulburn.  Among  the 
monuments  are  those  of  Bishop  Goldwell  (1472-79)  and  Sir  William  Boleyn 
(d.  1505),  grandfather  of  Anne  Boleyn.  The  stained  glass  is  modern. 
A  fine  view  of  the  interior  is  obtained  from  the  triforium.  The  choir- 
aisles  end,  on  the  E.,  in  apsidal  chapels  :  the  Jesus  Chapel  on  the  N.,  and 
St.  Luke's  Chapel  on  the  S.  A  Lady  Chapel.,  forming  the  E.  termination 
of  the  Cathedral,  was  built  at  the  end  of  the  apse  in  1245-57  (E.  E.)  but 
was  taken  down  in  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  The  Beauchamp  Chapel., 
opening  off  the  S.  aisle  of  the  choir,  is  in  the  Dec.  style.  In  the  N.  choir- 
aisle  is  a  Gallery.,  supposed  to  have  been  used  for  exhibiting  relics.  —  From 
the  S.  Transept  we  pass  through  the  Prior's  Door  into  the  spacious  'Clois- 
ters (Dec).  In  the  W.  walk  are  the  Monks'  Lavatories.  The  Chapter 
House,  which  stood  to  the  E.  of  the  cloisters,  has  long  since  perished. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Cathedral  stands  the  Bishop's  Palace.,  dating  in  great 
part  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent.,  though  since  extensively  altered 
and  enlarged.  —  To  the  N.W.,  by  the  Erpingham  Gate,  is  an  old  chapel, 
now  used  as  a  Grammar  School.  In  front  of  the  latter  is  a  Statue  of  Nelson^ 
who  was  a  pupil  here.  —  PuWs  Ferry,  a  double  arch  at  the  end  of  the 
Lower  Close,  was  formerly  the  water-gate  to  the  cathedral  precincts. 

Leaving  the  Catlieclral  Close  by  the  Erpingham  Gate,  we  cross  the 
Tombland  obliquely  to  its  S.  W.  corner,  and  follow  Queen  St.  to  the 
Castle,  a  Norman  keep  (^refaced  in  1839),  70  ft.  high,  situated  on  a 
lofty  mound.  From  1IJ45  till  1887  the  castle  was  used  as  a  prison, 
but  it  now  accommodates  the  Norfolk  Museum  (open  free  on  Mon. 
&  Sat.,  10-4),  containing  line  collections  of  birds  and  fossils.  The 
grounds  surrounding  it  are  a  public  garden.  *View  of  the  town  from 
the  top  of  the  keep.  —  To  the  W.  is  the  Market-place ,  with  the 


CROxMER.  5.9.  Route.     455 

Guild  Hail,  the  Council  Chamber  in  which  retains  its  fittings  of 
the  Tudor  period  and  contains  souvenirs  of  Nelson.  In  the  S.W. 
corner  of  the  market  is  *SL  Peter  Mancroft  (14th  cent.),  with  a 
fine  tower  (good  interior). 

St.  Andrew's  Hall  (adm.  3(i.),  in  St.  Andrew  St.,  originally  the 
nave  of  a  Dominican  Church  (Perp.),  is  now  used  for  the  'Nor- 
wich Triennial  Musical  Festival',  etc. 

Many  of  the  other  churches  of  Norwich  show  interesting  specimens 
of  the  characteristic  East  Anglian  'flush-work',  ao  called  because  faced 
flints  are  used  to  fill  up  flush  the  interstices  of  the  freestone  pattern  fcomp. 
p.  li).  A  few  remains  of  the  Cily  Walls  still  exist,  including  two  or 
three  of  the  forty  towers  with  which  it  was  strengthened.  Quaint  medifpval 
houses  abound.  —  There  are  two  large  Roman  Catholic  ChttrchfS. 

A  good  view  of  Norwich  is  obtained  from  Mousehold  Heath,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Wensiim  (to  the  E.).  Robert  Ket  (p.  449)  encamped  beneath 
the  'Oak  of  Reformation'   on    this  heath,  during  the  insurrection  of  1549. 

About  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  Norwich  is  Caistor  St.  Edmund,  with  a  large 
Roman  camp,  perhaps  the  true  Venta  Icenorum  (comp.  p.  453). 

The  Dolphin  Inn  at  Heigham,  IV2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Norwich,  is  an 
interesting  old  house,  parts  of  which  probably  date  from  the  14th  century. 
Bishop  Hall  died  here  in  1656  and  is  buried  in  the  parish-church. 

From  Norwich  to  Yarmouth,  I8V2  M.,  railway  in  3/4  br.  (fares  2^.  6f/., 
is.  %d.).  This  line  traverses  the  district  of  the  'Norfolk  Broads'  (iee 
p.  457).  The  train  starts  from  Thorpe  Station  (p.  453).  2  31.  Whitlingham, 
see  below.  At  (6  M.)  Brundall  the  railway  forks,  the  N.  branch  running 
direct  to  Yarmouth  via  Lingwood  and  Acle  (King's  Head;  Queen's  Head; 
a  good  centre  for  visiting  the  Broads,  p.  457),  while  the  S.  branch  makes 
a  detour  via  Reedham  (junction  for  Lowestoft,  p.  4.56).  Brundall  is  the 
station  for  Surlingham  Broad.     Yarmouth,  see  p.  457. 

From  Norwich  to  Cromer,  24  M.,  railway  (from  Thorpe  Station)  in 
1  hr.  (fares  4s.,  2s.).  At  (2  M.)  Wh'tlingham  the  line  diverges  to  the  N. 
(left)  from  that  to  Yarmouth.  9  M.  Wroxham.,  with  the  'Queen  of  the  Nor- 
folk Broails'  (comp.  p.  457),  is  the  junction  of  aline  to  Aylsham  and  Dere- 
ham (p.  449).  A  steamer  plies  in  summer  on  the  Dure  between  Wroxham 
and  Yarmouth  (p.  457).  —  13  M.  Worstead  (New  Inn)  gave  its  name  to 
worsted  yarn,  a  colony  of  Flemish  weavers  having  settled  here  in  the  12lh 
century.  The  church  is  interesting.  —  I6V2M.  North  Walsham  (Angd),  with 
a  large  Perp.  church  and  the  Paston  Grammar  School  at  which  Lord  Nel- 
son and  Archbp.  Tenison  were  pupils,  has  also  railway  communication  with 
Aylsham,  Melton  Constable,  and  Fakenham  (see  below),  and  with  Caistor 
and  Yarmouth  via  the  Eastern  &  Midlands  line.  In  summer  a  coach  plies 
hence  to  the  seaside  resort  of  (5  M.)  Mundeski/,  and  thence  N.  by  the 
coast  to  Cromer  (see  below).  Fasten,  with  memorials  of  the  Paston  familv. 
lies  4  M.  to  the  E.  of  North  Walsham.  —  Near  (20  M.)  GuiKoti  is  Gunton 
Park,  the  seat  of  Lord  Suffield,  open  on  Thurs.  during  summer.  -  24  31. 
Cromer  (Grand;  Hdtel  de  Paris;  Tucker's;  Red  Lion;  Bellevue;  Bath ;  Bond 
Street  Restaurant),  the  'English  Etretat',  perhaps  the  mo.*t  charming  spot 
in  East  Anglia,  is  a  rising  little  watering-place  with  admirably  firm  and 
smooth  sands  and  cliffs  CO-200  ft.  high.  The  tower  of  the  Perp.  Church 
is  a  line  specimen  of  flint-work  (p.  li) ;  chancel  rebuilt  in  18S9.  About 
1  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  Cromer  Beach,  the  terminus  of  a  line  from  Sherringhani, 
Melton  Constable,  Fakenham,  and  Norwich.  The  Lighthouse,  on  a  height 
to  the  E.  ('/a  hr.),  commands  a  fine  view.  .Adjacent  are  good  golf-links. 
Excursions  may  be  made  to  Felbrigg  Hall  (3  M.' to  ihe  S.),  Afimdesley  (see 
above;  8  M.),  the  Roman  Camp  (4  M. ;  'View),  etc.  The  heaths  round  Cro- 
mer abound  in  'pit-dwellings',  which  may  have  been  primitive  habitations. 

From  Norwich  to  Fakenham  and  Ltnn,  50  M.,  railway  in  2-2'  4  hrs. 
(fares  6».  Gd.,  3s.  3d.).  This  line  (Midlands  cfc  Eastern)  starts  from  the 
City  Station  (p.  453)  and  crosses  the  G.  E.  R.  at  Reepham.  22  31.  Mellon 
Constable,   the  junction    of  lines   to   North  Walsh'im   (see  above;    for   Yar- 


456    Route  60.  LOWESTOFT.  From  London 

mouth)  and  to  Sherrivgham  ('Hotel)  and  Cromer  Beach  (see  p.  465).  — 
From  (291  2  M.)  Fakenham  (Crown)  a  branch  diverges  to  the  IS',  for  Wal- 
singham  (with  the  interesting  ruins  of  an  Augustine  Priory;  open  on  Wed., 
10-5)  and  Wells  (p.  450).  Another  runs  S.  to  Dereham  and  Wymondham 
(comp.  p.  449).  Is  ear  (33V2  M.)  Eaynham  Park  Station  is  Raynham  Park, 
the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  To\vnshend,  with  a  fine  collection  of  portraits 
and  a  master-piece  (Belisarius)  of  Salvator  Rosa.  —  50  M.  Lynn,  see  p.  450. 
From  Norwich  to  Thetford  and  Elij,  see  p.  449. 

60.  From  London  to  Lowestoft  and  Yarmouth. 

Great  Eastern  Eailwat  to  (1171/2  M.)  Lowestoft  in  3^  4-5V4  hrs.  (fares 
22s.,  95.  10V2C?.);  to  (I2IV2  M.)  Yarmouth  in  3V4-51/4  hrs'  (fares  22s.  8d., 
10s.  Id.).     Cheap   excursion-fares  in  summer. 

As  far  as  (69  M.)  Ipswich  this  route  coincides  with  R.  59.  The 
first  station  beyond  Ipswich  is  (72  M.)  Westerfield,  where  a  line 
diverges  to  Felixstowe  (p.  453).  —  84'/2  M.  Wickham  Market  is 
the  junction  of  a  line  to  (6^2  ^^')  Framlingham  (Croirn  <f  Horses), 
with  a  picturesque  ruined  castle,  a  fine  church  containing  some 
interesting  monuments  (Earl  of  Surrey,  the  poet,  etc.),  and  the  Albert 
Memorial  College.  —  From  (91  M.)  Saxmundham  a  short  branch-line 
runs  via  Leiston  (with  ruined  abbey)  to  Aldeburgh.  ( Brudenell,  iOs. 
per  day,  very  fair;  White  Lion;  East  Suffolk),  a  pleasant  seaside 
resort  with  a  good  golf-ground.  The  church  contains  some  good 
brasses  and  a  memorial  of  the  poet  Crabbe  (1754-1832),  a  native 
of  the  parish,  who  describes  the  town  in  'The  Borough'.  The  town- 
hall  or  moot-hall  is  a  half-timbered  building  of  the  16th  century. 
—  9572  M.  Darsham  (Stradbroke  Arms)  is  the  station  for  (o^  2  M.) 
Dunwich  (Barne  Arms),  the  earliest  seat  of  the  East  Anglian 
bishopric  (founded  ca.  630).  Successive  encroachments  of  the  sea 
have  swept  away  its  palaces  and  churches,  and  it  is  now  a  small 
village.  —  101  M,  Halesworth  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (3  M.) 
Southwold  ('■^Centre  Cliff;  *Sican),  another  little  watering-place, 
with  a  fine  Perp.  church,  containing  an  interesting  rood-screen. 
Excursions  may  be  made  to  Dunwich  (see  above),  Coverhithe,  Wal- 
berswick,  undBlythburgh,  all  with  interesting  churches.  —  109  Becc- 
les  (King's  Head)  is  the  junction  for  Bungay  and  Tivetshall  (p.  453) 
on  the  W.,  and  for  (8'/2  ^I-)  Lowestoft  on  the  E. 

Lowestoft  C^iJoya?;  Harbour;  Suffolk;  Crown;  Crown  d-  Anchor;  Grand; 
Royal  Oak),  the  most  E.  town  in  England,  is  one  of  the  most  important  fish- 
ing-stations in  the  world  and  a  growing  fashionable  sea-bathing  resort  with 
23,350  inhab.  in  1891.  The  old  town,  to  the  N.  of  the  harbour,  contains 
a  fine  Perp.  Church.  The  narrow  lanes  running  from  the  High  St.  towards 
the  sea'  are  known  as  the  'Scores'.  South  Lowestoft,  with  its  long  Espla- 
nade and  the  S.  Pier  (adm.  Id.;  concert-pavilion),  is  the  watering-place 
proper.  Bellevue  Park,  with  the  Model  Yacht  Lake,  and  the  Xorlh  Parade 
Cliffs  are  among  the  attractions.  Among  the  favourite  resorts  is  (2  M.) 
Oulton  Broad  (Wherry  Hotel;  Commodore;  boats  and  stores  from  James 
Bullen),  which  affords  amusement  for  boating  and  fishing  parties,  and 
may  be  reached  by  railway.  Oulton  Hall,  the  residence  of  George  Borrow 
(p.  449),  is  pulled  down.  Oulton  church  claims  to  have  the  oldest  eccles- 
iastical bra<'S  in  England  (1310).  Somerleyton  Hall,  the  imposing  residence 
of  Sir  Savile  Crossley,  6  M.  to  the  X.W.,  has  a  fine  park  (adm.  on  Wed.). 


to  Yarmouth.  YARMOUTH.  60.  Route.    457 

115  M.  St.  Olave's  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Lowestoft  (p.  456) 
and  Reedham  (p.  455). 

12172^1-  Yarmouth.  —Hotels.  ■■Victoria,  *Royal,  Bath,  Norfolk, 
Marine  Parade;  'Queen's,  Marine  Parade,  R.  <fe  A.  4s.  6d  ,  D.  3s.  6d.\  Star, 
Duke's  Head,  Cromwell  (temperance),  Ckown  &  Anchor,  on  the  Hall 
Quay;  Angel,  Market-place. 

Railway  Stations.  South  Town  Station.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tare 
(for  London,  Lowestoft,  Cromer,  Lynn,  etc.);  Vaxxhall  Station^  on  the  X. 
side  of  Breydon  Water  (for  Norwich,  etc.);  Beach  S!a(ion,  near  the  N.  end 
of  the   town  (for  North  Walsham  and  Lynn). 

Tramway  from  the  South  Station  to  Gorleston  (Tramway  Hotel). 

Steamers  ply  weekly  to  Hull,  Newcastle,  and  London  and  in  summer  to 
Cromer  and  Lowestoft.  Small  steamers  also  ply  daily  in  summer  up  the 
Tare  to  Norwich  and  up  the  Bure  to  Wroxham  (p.  4oo),  aftbrding  a  glimpse 
at  the  Broads  (see  below).  Circular  tickets  are  issued  allowing  the  jour- 
ney in  one  direction  to  be  made  by  railway. 

Yarmouth,  the  most  important  town  and  port  on  the  E.  Anglian 
coast,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yare  and  contains  about 
49,300  inhabitants.  It  is  also  a  very  popular  watering-place,  and 
in  the  height  of  summer  is  flooded  almost  daily  with  excursionists. 
Its  attractions  include  Arm  and  extensive  sands  for  bathers,  a 
marine  parade,  three  piers,  the  Theatre  Royal,  and  an  aquarium 
(theatrical  performances,  etc.).  Great  Yarmouth,  the  older  part  of 
the  town,  adjoining  the  river,  contains  numerous  picturesque  'rows' 
or  lanes,  only  3-6  ft.  wide.  As  Dirkens  puts  it:  'Great  Yarmouth 
is  one  vast  gridiron,  of  which  the  bars  are  represented  by  the  rows'. 
The  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  the  largest  parish-church  in  England 
(230  ft.  long,  112  ft.  wide;  area  23,265  sq.  ft.),  was  originally 
founded  in  1119,  but  the  oldest  parts  now  standing  are  the  tower 
(partly  Norman)  and  the  Transitional  nave  (1190).  Its  library  con- 
tains some  interesting  old  books;  the  modern  pulpit  is  handsome. 
In  the  chancel  is  a  curious  old  Revolving  Book  Desk.  Fine  view 
from  the  tower.  The  old  *Tolhouse  or  Gaol  (adm.  2c?,),  near  the  N. 
end  of  Middlegate  St.,  is  an  interesting  building  of  the  14th  cent., 
now  containing  a  free  library  (fine  old  hall)  and  museum.  The 
Town  Hall,  on  the  South  Quay,  not  far  from  the  Tolhouse,  is  a 
large  modern  building.  No.  4,  South  Quay,  an  Elizabethan  house 
with  a  modern  front ,  is  said  to  have  been  the  place  in  which  the 
death  of  Charles  I.  was  decided  upon  by  Cromwell's  supporters. 
Parts  of  the  old  Town  Walls  are  still  standing,  including  the  S.E. 
and  Blackfriars^  Towers  ;  and  there  are  remains  of  tlie  Greyfriars' 
Cloisters  in  Middlegate  St.  The  Nelson  Column  (adm.  6rf.),  144  ft. 
high,  in  the  South  Denes,  commands  a  good  view.  The  Herring 
Fishery  is  at  its  height  in  autumn,  when  'Yarmouth  Bloaters'  may 
be  seen  in  all  stages  of  preparation. 

The  district  to  the  W.  of  Yarmouth  is  par  excellence  the  country  of 
the  Norfolk  Broads,  large  lagoons,  generally  connected  with  each  other 
by  sluggish  rivers,  and  alternating  with  vast  expanses  of  marsh  and  reed. 
There  are  in  all  40-50  Broads,  varying  in  size  from  2  to  500  acres  (in  all 
5000  acre^),  and  connected  by  the  Bure,  the  Yare,  and  the  Waveney  (\n  all 
2ClO  M.  of  navigable  river),   which  all  find  their  way  into  Breydon  Water 


458    Route  00.  NEWMARKET. 

(see  below).  Most  of  them  are  on  the  Bure  and  its  tributaries.  The  district 
affords  admirable  opportunities  for  boating,  angling,  and  wild-fowl  shooting. 
River-yachts  for  excursions  on  the  Broads  may  be  hired  at  Yarmouth, 
Norwich,  Wroxham,  or  Oulton,  at  rates  varying  from  3^  to  10^.  a  week, 
according  to  the  size  and  the  number  of  the  crew.  The  tourist  who  merely 
wishes  to  see  the  scenery  may  take  a  passage  in  one  of  the  so-called 
Wherries,  or  trading  barges,  plying  between  Norwich  and  other  inland 
places  and  the  coast. 

The  following  round  trip  from  Xorwich ,  lasting  10-14  days,  will  in- 
clude a  visit  to  most  of  the  principal  Broads.  —  From  Norwich  to  Reedham 
(p.  455)  and  Yarmouth  (p.  457)  by  the  Yare ,  including  Surlingham  and 
Rockland  Broads  and  Breydon  Water ^  the  estuary  of  the  Yare;  from  Yar- 
mouth to  Acle  (p.  455),  Wroxham  (p.  455),  and  CoUishall  (rail,  stat.)  by  the 
Bure,  visiting  South  Walsham,  Ranwcrth.  Hoveton,  Wroxham,  and  Belaugh 
Broads;  back  by  the  Bure  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ant  (near  which  are  the 
ruins  of  St.  BeneVs  Abbey),  10  M.  below  Wroxham,  and  up  this  stream 
to  Barton  and  Stalham  Broads  ;  then  back  to  the  Bure  and  via  the  Thurne 
to  Heigham  Bridge,  to  visit  Heigham  Sounds,  Hickling  and  Martham 
Broads,  and  Horsey  i/ere  (these  for  light-draught  boats  only);  from  Heigh- 
am Bridge  back  to  Yarmouth  via  Acle.  The  Mvck  Fleet  (for  small  boats 
only),  diverging  to  the  N.  below  Acle  Bridge,  lead?  to  Filhy,  Rollesby,  and 
Ormeshy  Broads,  which  are  more  easily  reached  by  railway  from  Yar- 
mouth to  (5  31.)  Ormeshy.  The  chief  Broads  not  included  in  this  excursion 
are  Oulton  (p.  456),  and  Friiton  Decoy,  with  its  water-fowl  decoys,  1  M. 
from  Haddiscoe,  on  the  railway  from  Yarmouth  to  Lowestoft. 

Among  points  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Yarmouth  are  (2  M.) 
Gorleston  (tramway,  see  p.  457);  Burgh  Castle  (4-5  M.  to  the  S.W.),  a 
well-preserved  Eoman  fortification  at  the  head  of  Breydon  Water ;  Caislor 
Castle  (4  M.;  to  theN.);  and  Lowestoft  (p.  456;  9  M.),  by  excursion-brake 
(Is.  6c?.),  railway,  or  steamer. 

From  Yarmouth  to  North  Walsham  bv  Eastern  &.  Midlands  Railway, 
29  M.,  in  3/^-11/^  iir.  (fares  45.,  2.?.).  31/2  M.  Caistor  (see  above);  6V2  M. 
Ovmesby  (see  above);  22  M.  Stalham  (see  above).  —  Iforth  Walfham,  and 
thence  to  Cromer  or  Melton  Constable,  see  p.  455. 

From  Yarmouth  to  Norwich,  see  p.  455. 

61.  From  Cambridge  to  Newmarket  and  Bury 
St.  Edmunds. 

Great  Eastern  Railway  to  (14  M.)  Neicm'trket  in  1/2  hr.  (25.  7c?.,  \s. 
2d.);  to  (23  M.)  Bury  St.  Edmunds  in  I-IV4  hr.  (55.  U.,  2s.  id.). 

Cambridge,  see  p.  440.  The  country  traversed  is  flat.  Near  New- 
market we  cross  a  singular  earthwork  known  as  the  Devil's  Dyke. 

14  M.  Newmarket  (Rutland  Arms;  White  Hart;  Victoria),  a  town 
with  6200  inhah.,  is  situated  partly  in  Cambridgeshire,  partly  in 
Suffolk,  the  main  street  being  the  boundary  between  these  counties. 

Newmarket  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Jockey  Club  and  the  metro- 
polis of  horse-racing.  No  fewer  than  eight  race-meetings  take  place  yearly, 
viz.  the  Craven  Meeting,  about  Easter ,  First  and  Second  Spring  Meetings 
(at  the  latter  of  which  the  'Two  Thousand  Guineas"  is  run),  First  and  Second 
July  Meetings,  First  and  Second  October  Meetings  ('Cesarewitch'  run  at  the 
latter),  and  Houghton  Meeting  (with  the  Cambridgeshire  Handicap),  at  the 
end  of  October.  Beds  and  living  rise  to  famine  prices  during  the  races. 
The  races  are  run  at  different  parts  of  Newmarket  Heath  (comp.  Baedeker's 
London).  At  other  seasons  the  morning  gallops  of  the  horses  in  training 
(about  1500)  are  a  perennial  source  of  interest  to  the  betting  world. 

The  old  Palace  in  the  High  St.,  built  by  Charles  II.,  who  was  a  con- 
stant patron  of  Newmarket  Races ,  is  now  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Rut- 
land. The  houses  of  'Old  Q'  (the  Duke  of  Queensberry) ,  Nell  Gwynne, 
and  various  other  quondam  visitors  are  also  shown. 


SOUTHEND.  62.  Route.   459 

28  M.  Bury  St.  Edmunds  (Angel;  Suffolk;  Everard's),  a  bright 
and  interesting  little  town  with  16,630  inhab.,  first  came  into  no- 
tice as  the  burial-place  of  St.  Edmund,  the  last  King  of  East 
Anglia,  whose  shrine  here  was  long  one  of  the  chief  resorts  of 
English  pilgrims.  The  abbey  erected  in  the  11th  cent,  over  his 
tomb  soon  attained  great  wealth  and  importance.  See  the  charac- 
teristic account  of  Bury  by  Carlyle,  in 'Past  and  Present'. 

Oppcsite  the  Angel  Hotel  is  the  Abbey  0  at  etc  at/ ,  a  fine  Dec.  structure 
of  1337,  leading  to  the  Botanic  Gardens  (adra.  tirf.),  which  contain  the  chief 
remains  of  the  Abhey,  including  the  ruins  of  the  Church  (within  a  railing, 
at  the  S.E.  corner),  the  Abbofs  Palace,  and  the  AbhoPs  Bridge  CS.K.  corner). 
—  Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Bury  are  St.  James's  Church,  a  Perp. 
edifice  of  the  15th  cent,.;  a  Norman  Tower  (ca.  lOflO):  St.  Mary''s  Church. 
with  a  fine  timber  ceiling  (15th  cent);  and  Moyses  Hall.,  a  late-Korman 
building,  supposed  to  have  been  a  Jewish  synagogue. 

In  the  environs  of  Bury  are  (4  M.)  Henyrave  Hall^  a  fine  Tudor 
mansion;  Ickworth  Houae  (3  M.),  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Bristol;  Barton 
House  (2  M.);  Culford  Hall  (3  M.;  Earl  Cadogan),  etc. 

Beyond  Bury  the  railway  goes  on  to  Haughley  Road  Junction.,  where 
it  joins  the  line  from  Ipswich  to  Norwich  (comp.  p.  453).  —  Branch-line.? 
also  run  from  Bury  to  Thetford  (p.  449)  and  Mark's  Tey  (p.  451). 

62.  From  London  to  Southend  and  Shoeburyness. 
Tilbury. 

391/2  M.  Railway  in  11/4  2  hrs.  (fares  4.^  8d.,  2^.  4(/.);  to  (36  M.)  South- 
end in  I-IV4  hr.  (fares  45.  4d.,  2s.  2d.).  Some  of  the  trains  run  via  (22V2  M.) 
Tilbury  (fares  25. ,  I5.).  The  above  fares  are  from  Fenchurch  Street  Stat  on 
or  from  Liverpool  Street.       From  Chalk  Farm  the  fares  are  slightly  lower. 

This  line  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  the  Thames  to  (8  M.)  Barking, 
where  it  turns  to  the  N.  Some  trains,  however,  continue  to  follow 
the  Thames  estuary  via  Purfhet,  Grays,  and  (22V2  jVI.)  Tilbury  [see 
Baedeker  s  London),  rejoining  the  direct  line,  beyond  ('28  M.)  Stan- 
ford-le-Hope,  with  an  interesting  church,  at  Pitsea  (see  below). 

11^/4  M.  Dagenhani;  13'/2^I-  Hornchurch,  junction  for  Romford 
(p.  4.oO);  I0V4  M.  Vpminster.  junction  for  Ockenden;  191/4  M.  FmsI 
Horndon;  23  M.  Laindon.  — '26i;2  M.  Pitsea.  —  Aear  (291/4  M.) 
Benfleet  is  Hadleigh,  with  the  Salvation  Army  Farm  Colony,  and  the 
ruins  of  Hadleigh  Castle. 

36  M.  Southend  (Royal;  Hope;  Ship;  We-'^tcliff),  a  small  water- 
ing-place at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  with  about  9000  inhab., 
is  chiefly  patronized  by  excursionists  from  London.  It  possesses 
an  Esplanade  and  a  wooden  Pier  (toll  Id.),  2000  yds.  long,  traversed 
by  a  tramway  (3d.),  a  (rolf  Course,  a  Theatre^  and  other  pla^-es  of 
amusement.  Excursion-steamers  ply  to  and  from  London  in  summer; 
and  a  steamer  sails  daily  in  summer  to  Ostend.  —  391/2  M.  Shoe- 
buryness (Cambridge  Hotel)  is  i\\e  government  station  for  artillery 
practice,  with  a  long  gun-range.  Important  experiments  in  modern 
ordnance  take  place  here;  and  the  Artillery  Volunteers  hold  their 
annual  competition  here  in  August. 


SCOTLAND. 


I.    Travelling  Expenses.    Hotels. 

Expenses.  Travelling  in  the  tourist-districts  of  Scotland  has  the  re- 
putation of  being  expensive;  and  as  regards  a  few  of  the  Highland  hotels 
that  practically  possess  a  monopoly  of  the  traveller's  custom,  this  re- 
proach is  perhaps  deserved.  A  considerable  improvement  in  this  respect 
has,  however,  taken  place  of  late  years;  and  it  may  be  questioned  whether 
the  average  charges  at  Scottish  hotels  are  higher  than  those  in  equally 
frequented  districts  of  England  (comp.  p.  xxiii).  The  competition  of  the 
steamboats  and  railways,  and  the  extensive  development  of  the  system  of 
Circular  Tours  (see  below)  have,  on  the  other  hand,  made  the  expenses 
of  locomotion  very  moderate.  The  ordinary  tourist,  frequenting  the  best 
hotels  and  yvailing  himself  of  the  usual  means  of  locomotion,  must  be 
prepared  to  spend  25-30*.  a  day,  but  the  pedestrian  of  modest  require- 
ments may  reduce  his  expenditure  to  10-125.  daily. 

Hotels.  The  Highland  hotels  are  generally  good  and  comfortable, 
though  their  charges  are  high  (see  above)  The  average  summer  prices  at 
houses  of  the  first  class  are  about  aa  follows:  R.  &  A.  4.^.-55.  6d.,  plain 
breakfast  or  tea  Is.  6d.,  D.  3s.  Gd.-5s.  The  Scottish  table  d'hote  breakfasts, 
with  their  abundant  choice  of  salmon,  fresh  herrings,  chops,  steaks,  ham 
and  eggs,  preserves,  cakes,  and  scones,  are  certainly  not  exorbitant  at  their 
usual  rate  of  2s.  6d.-3i.;  and  table  d'hote  teas  (7.30-8  p.m.)  of  a  similar 
description  are  also  sometimes  provided  for  those  who  do  not  dine  at 
table  d'hote  (6-T.30  p.m.).  Those  who  prefer  it  may  order  dinner  in  the 
middle  of  the  day.  The  charges  for  luncheons  and  other  light  refreshments 
are  often  comparatively  high.  "Wine  in  the  Highland  hotels  is  always 
dear  and  generally  bad;  but  good  whiskey  —  the  vin  du  pays  —  which 
may  be  mixed  with  soda-water,  may  be  obtained  almost  everywhere.  In 
small  quantities,  diluted,  it  will  be  found  a  good  drink  for  the  pedestrian. 
The  beds  are  usually  good  and  clean ;  and  the  larger  hotels  contain  com- 
fortably fitted  up  drawing,  reading,  billiard,  and  smoking  rooms.  Gratuities 
need  not  be  given  except  to  the  'Boots',  but  it  is  usual  to  give  a  trifle  to 
the  waiter  and  chamber-maid  if  any  stay  be  made  (comp.  p.  xxiii). 

Hotel  Coupons  (B.,  with  meat  and  eggs,  2s.  6d.,  L.  2s.,  D.  3*.  Gd.,  plain 
tea  Is.  6rf.,  tea  with  meat  25.  Gd.,  R.  &  A.  4s.)  are  issued  by  the  Cale- 
donian Railway  Co.  and  by  the  tourist-agents  (Cook,  Gaze)  in  London; 
but  at  some  places  (e.g.  Oban)  these  are  not  accepteti  at  the  leading  hotels, 
nor  are  they  available  for  the  'monopoly'  hotels  at  the  Trossachs,  Tarbet, 
etc.  Temperance  Hotels,  see  p.  xxiii.  Lidies  are  advised  to  frequent  first- 
class  hotels  only. 

II.    Railways,  Coaches,  and  Steamers. 

The  general  remarks  made  at  p.  xx  on  the  railways  of  England  apply 
also  to  those  of  Scotland.  Second-class  carriages  have  been  abolished  in 
Scotland.  The  principal  Scottish  railway-companies  are  the  Horth  British, 
the  Caledonian,  the  Highland,  the  Glasgow  and  South  Western,  and  the  Great 
North  of  Scotland.  These  companies  (especially  the  two  first)  issue  Circu- 
lar Tickets,  available  by  rail,  coach,  and  steamer,  in  such  variety  of  com- 
bination, that  the  traveller  will  find  no  difficulty  in  selecting  a  tour  which 
includes  exactly  the  points  he  wishes  to  visit.  All,  or  almost  all,  the 
tours  begin  and  end  at  Glasgow  or  Edinburgh;  but  many  of  them  may 
also  be  begun  at  Perth,  Stirling,  Oban.  Aberdeen,  etc  Full  information 
regarding  these  circular  tours  will  be  found  in  the  Tourist  Handbooks  pub- 
lished by  the  railway-companies.  The  tickets  are  usually  available  for  several 
weeks;    and   the   utmost    facilities    are   granted   for  breaking  the  journey. 


WWIVERSITY  of  CALIFP^r 
AT 
JUOS  ANGELES 
LIBRAMY 


SCOTLAND.  461 

Third-class  tickets,  15-30  per  cent  cheaper  than  first-clasa,  generally  in- 
clude equal  privileges  on  steamers  and  coaches;  but  the  Scottish  third-class 
compartments  are  inferior  to  those  of  England.  —  Ihe  English  railway-com- 
panies issue  tourist  tickets  to  Scotland  at  reduced  rates,  available  for  1-2 
months.  —  The  Scottish  'Bradshaw'  is  Murray's  Time  Tables  (monthly;  id.). 

Coaches.  The  Highland  coaches  are,  as  a  rule,  excellently  horsed, 
and  form  a  delightful  means  of  seeing  the  country  in  fine  weather.  There 
is  invariably  a  keen  competition  for  the  box-5eats:  and  travellers,  on 
reaching  a  point  whence  the  journey  is  to  be  continued  by  coach,  should 
send  one  of  the  party  as  quickly  as  possible  to  secure  good  places.  The 
lirst  coach,  where  there  are  more  than  one,  suffers  least  from  dust.  The 
driver  expects  a  gratuity  of  6d.-ls.  6d,  according  to  the  length  of  the  drive. 
—  Posting,  as  in  England  (p.  xxii). 

Steamers.  There  is  probably  nowhere  a  better  service  of  pleasure 
steamers  than  those  which  ply  on  the  Clyde  and  along  the  W.  coast  of 
Scotland ;  and-  they  are  certainly  much  superior  to  tlie  English  river 
steamers.  Most  of  them  belong  to  Mr.  David  Machvayne  (119  Hope  St.,  Glas- 
gow), who  issues  tickets  for  six  days'  sailing  (3M,  available  on  any  of  his 
vessels  (board  included).  The  fares  generally  are  very  moderate,  and  the 
restaurants  on  board  excellent.  —  A  small  but  exasperating  annoyance  in 
steamboat  travelling  in  Scotland  is  the  constant  demand  for  pier-dues  (i-4c?.) 
on  landing  or  embarking,    as  the  piers  usually  belong  to  private  owners. 

III.  Plan  of  Tour. 

The  regular  'Season'  for  a  tour  in  Scotland  is  July  and  August,  when, 
however,  the  hotels  are  often  over-crowded.  June  is  in  some  respects  one 
of  the  pleasantest  months  ;  but  many  of  the  circular  tour  tickets  are  not 
issued,  and  some  of  the  coaches  do  not  begin  running,  until  July.  The 
first  half  of  July  is  generally  less  crowded  than  the  following  4-6  weeks. 
The  first  half  of  September  is  also  often  a  favourable  season,  but  the  days 
begin  to  be  perceptibly  shorter.  —  Sunday  is  practically  a  dies  non  in 
Highland  travelling,  and  Sunday  quarters  should  always  be  engaged  in 
advance.  Most  of  the  trains,  steamers,  and  coaches  cease  running  on  Sunday, 
and  in  some  quarters  it  is  even  difficult  to  hire  a  private  carriage. 

As  already  stated,  the  possible  combinations  of  tours  in  Scotland  are 
so  numerous  that  it  is  difficult  to  give  advice  in  mapping  out  a  journey. 
The  following  routes,  however,  will  at  least  give  an  idea  of  the  time  re- 
quired for  a   visit  to  the  most  attractive   points. 

a.   Tour  of  3-4  Weeks.  Days 

Edinburgh  and  Environs  (Eoslin,  Eawthornde))) 3-4 

From  Edinburgh  to  Melrose  and  Dryburgh,  and  back 1 

From  Edinburgh  via  Callander,  the  Trossachs.,  and  Loch  Lomond  to 

Glasgow  (Circular  Tour) 1-2 

Glasgow 1-2 

Foils  of  Clyde  and  back >  2-1 

From  Glasgow  to  Ayr  (Burns  Country)  and  back 1 

From  Glasgow  to  Arran  (night-quarters)  and  back   ...*..  2 

From  Glasgow  to   Oban  by  the  Crinan  Canal 1 

Circular  Tour  from  Oban  to  Loch  Aire  and  back 1 

From  Oban  to  lona  and  Staffa.,  and  back 1 

From  Oban  to  Rallachvlish  and  Glencoe 1 

From  Ballachulish  to  Lnreniens.     Caledonian  Canal.    Fall  of  Foyers  1  ' 

From  Inverness  to  Loch  Maree  and  back 2 

From  Inverness  to  Aberdeen  and  in  Aberdeen 1-lVs 

From  Aberdeen  to  Braemar •     •     .  1 

From  Braemar  through  the  Spilal  of  Glenshee  to  Perth       ....  1 
From  Perth   to  Crieff,    Comric,  Lochearnhead,    Loch   Toy.  Kenmcre, 

Abar/eldy,  and  Dunkeld 1-2 

From  Dunkeld  to  Pitlochry  and  back  to  Perth 1 

From  Perth  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow •     .     .     .     .  V« 

22-27 


462  SCOTLAND. 

Those  who  do  not  fear  a  short  sea-voyage  should  undoubtedly  add 
to  this  tour  a  visit  of  2-3  days  to  the  island  of  Skye  ^  which  contains, 
perhaps,  the  grandest  scenery  in  Scotland.  The  island  is  reached  either 
from  Oban  or  from  Inverness  (via  Gairloch  or  Strome  Ferry  ;  shortest  sea- 
pasaage).  Those  who  dispense  with  a  visit  to  Aberdeen  may  obtain  a  cir- 
cular ticket  from  Edinburgh  (Glasgow)  for  Perth,  Dunkeld,  Inverness,  Ding- 
wall, Achnasheen,  Loch  Maree.  Gairloch ,  Portree  (Skye),  Oban,  Crinan 
Canal,  and  Glasgow  (or  in  the  reverse  direction).  —  Inveraray^  which  is 
not  included  in  the  above  itinerary,  may  be  visited  from  Glasgow  on  a 
circular  tour  of  2-3  days. 

b.    A  Week  from  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow.  Days 

Edinburgh 1-2 

From  Edinburgh  to  Inversnaid  as  given  in  R.  67  ;  thence  by  steamer 

to  Ardlui,  coach  to  Crianlarich^  and  railway  to  Lochearnhead  (one 

long  day  from  6  or  7  a.m.  to  7  p.m.) .  1 

Coach  to   Comrie,  railway  to  Crieff  and  Perth 1 

Railway   to  Aherfeldy^   coach   to  Kenmore,  steamer  on  Loch  Tay  to 

Killin  Pier-,  railway  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow 1 

[Or  from  Killin  by  railway  to   Oban^  and  on  the  following  day  by 

steamer  or  railway  back  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow      ....  2 

c.    A  Week  from  Glasgow  or  Edinburgh. 
Glasgow 1 

Railway  to  Greenock,   steamer  through  Loch  Long  and  Loch  Qoil  to 
Lochgoilhead^  coach  to  St.  Catherines,  ferry  to  Inveraray,  coach 

to  Tarbet 1-2 

Steamer    to  Inversnaid,   and   thence   via   the  Trossachs,   etc.,    as   in 

R.  67,  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow 1-2 

The  remaining  days  may  be  filled  up  by  excursions  from  Oban  to 
Staff  a  and  lona ;  from  Glasgow  to  Arran,  Ayr.,  or  the  Clyde ;  from  Edin- 
burgh io  Melrose,  Hawthornden,  etc.;  or  ivova.  Perth  \o  Dunkeld  or  Pitlochry. 

IV.  Outline  of  Scottish  History. 

The  first  event  in  the  history  of  Scotland  to  which  a  fixed  date  can 
be  assigned  is  its  invasion  in  A.D.  78  by  Julius  Agricola,  who  advanced 
as  far  as  the  Tay.  Antoninus  Pius  (ca.  105)  constructed  an  earthen  ram- 
part from  the  Clyde  to  the  Forth,  and  Severus  (208)  carried  the  Roman 
arms  to  the  Moray  Firth ;  but  practically  the  Romans  made  no  permanent 
conquests  beyond  the  Great  Wall  uniting  the  Solway  and  the  Tyne  (see 
p.  383).  The  earliest  known  inhabitants  of  the  country  were  the  three 
Celtic  races :  Britons,  Picts,  and  Scots.  The  Britons  extended  as  far  as  the 
Forth  and  Clyde  and  came  partly  under  Roman  influence.  The  Picts  (Latin, 
'Picti',  painted)  or  Cruiihne  seem  to  have  had  their  original  settlements  in 
the  extreme  X.  of  Scotland  and  Ireland.  Tlie  Scots,  who  eventually  gave 
their  name  to  the  whole  country,  came  from  Ireland  and  settled  at  first 
in  Argyllshire.  From  an  early  period  they  united  with  the  Picts  in  assaults 
on  the  Romans  and  Romanised  Britons.  The  conversion  of  these  three 
races  to  Christianity  seems  to  have  begun  before  the  close  of  the  4th  cent., 
and  the  three  chief  missionaries  were  St.  Ninian  (Galloway;  4-5th  cent.),  St. 
Kentigern  or  Mungo  (p.  487;  5-6th  cent.),  andLSt.Columha  (p.  500;  6- 7th  cent.). 

Down  to  the  9th  cent,  the  history  of  the  Picts,  in  the  K.  part  of  the 
country,  and  of  the  Scots,  in  their  kingdom  oi  Dalriada  (Argyllshire),  is 
somewhat  confusing  and  uncertain.  The  Britons  of  South  Scotland,  the 
kingdom  of  Strathclyde,  separated  by  the  English  from  their  S.  kinsmen 
maintained  their  independence  down  to  the  10th  cent,  (see  p.  463). 

844-860.  Kenneth  Macalpine  unites  the  Picts  and  Scots  in  one  kingdom, 
at  first  called  Albany  and  afterwards  (10-lith  cent.)  Scotland.  Contests 
with  the  Britons  of  Strathclyde. 

943-954.     Malcolm  I.  extends  his  sway  over  Strathclyde  (see  p.  463). 

1005-1034.     Malcolm  II.  conquers  Lothian. 

1034-1040.     Dnn'on,  grandson  of  Malcolm  II.,  is  killed  by  — 


SCOTLAND.  463 

1040-1057.  Macheth^  who  usurps  the  throne  and  proves  himself  an 
able  ruler.     He  falls  in  battle  against  the  son  of  Duncan  - 

1058-1093.  Malcolm  III.  Canmore.  who  gives  shelter  to  Edgar  Atheling 
and  marries  Lis  sister  Margaret  (1068).  The  English  language,  English 
customs,  and  English  colonists  begin  to  gain  a  footing  in  Scotland. 

1107-1124.  Alexander  I.  marries  Sibylla,  daughter  of  Henry  I.  of 
England. 

1124-1153.  David  /.,  the  'Scottish  Alfred',  does  much  to  promote  the 
civilisation  of  Scotland.  He  invades  England,  in  support  of  Matilda,  and 
is  defeated  at  the  Battle  of  the  Standard  (1138;    see  p.  417). 

1154-1165.     Malcolm  JV.,  the  Maiden. 

1165-1214.  William  the  Lion  is  taken  prisoner  by  Henry  II.  and  has 
to  acknowledge  his  supremacy,  but  afterwards  re-establishes'his  independ- 
ence.    Alliance  with  France. 

1214-1249.  Alexander  II.  takes  part  with  the  English  Barons  against 
King  John. 

1249-1289.  Alexander  1 11.^  a  wise  and  good  king,  under  whom  Scotland 
enjoys  peace  and  prosperity.  After  his  death  and  that  of  his  grand- 
daughter and  heiress,  Margaret,  the  Maid  of  Xorway  (1290),  the  succes- 
sion to  the  crown  is  disputed  by  Baliol  and  Bruce.  Edward  I.  of  England 
is  appealed  to  and  decides  in  favour  of  — 

1292-1297.  John  Baliol^  who,  however,  scarcely  maintains  a  semblance 
of  independence  and  after  a  short  resistance  to  Edward's  pretensions  is 
carried  prisoner  to  London  (1297).  William  Wallace,  the  'Man  of  the 
People',  rises  against  the  English,  and  defeats  them  at  Stirling  Bridge, 
but  is  finally  captured  by  Edward  I.  and  beheaded   (1305). 

1306-1329.  Robert  Bruce,  however,  succeeds  as  patriot-leader  of  the 
Scots ,  finally  secures  the  independence  of  Scotland  by  his  victory  at 
Bannockburn  (1314),  and  is  recognised  on  all  hands  as  king. 

1329-1370.  David  II.,  the  weak  son  of  a  great  father,  carries  on  an 
unsuccessful  war  with  England,  is  defeated  at  Keville's  Cross  (1346;  p.  421), 
and  is  kept  prisoner  by  Edward  III.  for  11  years. 

1370-1390.  Robert  11.,  son  of  Marjory,  Bruce's  daughter,  is  the  first  of 
the  Stuarts.     Battle  of  Otterbourn  (1388). 

1390-1406.  Robert  III.  also  carries  on  war  with  England.  Defeated 
at  Homildon  Hill  (1402).     His  son  and  successor  — 

1406-1437.  James  /.,  is  taken  prisoner  by  the  English  on  his  way  to 
France  in  1405  and  spends  the  first  18  years  of  his  reign  in  captivity.  The 
Duke  of  Albany  is  appointed  regent.  Defeat  of  Donald,  Lord  of  the  Isles, 
at  Harlaw  (1412).  James  writes  the  'King's  Qubair'  and  other  poems.  His 
reforms  are  in  advance  of  the  age  and  he  is  assassinated  by  conspirators 
at  Perth  (see  p.  510). 

1437-1460.  James  II.  stabs  the  Earl  of  Douglas,  a  dangerous  and  tur- 
bulent subject,  at  Stirling  (1452;  p.  495),  and  strengthens  the  ruyal  author- 
ity.   He  is  killed  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun  at  the  siege  of  Roxburgh  (p.  465). 

1460-1488.  James  III.  attempts  to  rule  through  favourites,  who  are 
put  to  death  by  Angus  'Bell  the  Caf  and  other  conspirators.  A  rebellion 
breaks  out,  and  James  is  defeated  by  his  nobles  at  Sauchieburn  and  slain. 

1488-1513.  James  IV.  marries  Margaret,  daughter  of  Henry  'VII.,  and 
is  slain  at  the  disastrous  battle  of  Flodden. 

1513-1542.  James  V.  marries  Mary  of  Guise.  Represses  the  Border 
Freebooters.    Is  defeated  at  Solway  Moss  (1542)  and  dies  of  a  broken  heart. 

1542-1567.  Mary  Stuart  marries  first  the  Dauphin  of  France  (1558), 
then  Darnley  (1565),  and  lastly  Bothwell  (1567).  Defeat  of  the  English  at 
Ancrum  Moor  (1544)  and  of  the  Scots  at  Pinkie  (1547).  Murder  of  Ri^^io 
(1566).  Reformation  in  Scotland  (1560  et  seq.);  John  Knox.  Mary,  while 
imprisoned  in  Lochleien  Castle,  abdicates  in  favour  of  her  son  (1567). 

1567-1603.  James  VI.  Defeat  at  Lanyside  (1568)  of  Mary,  who  takes 
refuge  in  England.  Regencies  of  Moray  (1568),  Lennox  (1570),  Mar  (1571), 
and  Morton  (1572).  Raid  of  Rtithven  (1582).  Queen  Mary  executed  (15S7).  Oote- 
rte  Conspiracy  (1600;   see   p.  511).     James  succeeds  to  the  English  throne. 


464 

y.  Notes    on  the  Gaelic  Language. 

The  Gaelic  of  the  Scottish  Highlands  is  akin  to  the  Welsh ,  and 
substantially  identical  with  the  Erse  of  Ireland.  Owing  to  the  numerous 
combinations  of  silent  consonants  and  other  causes,  it  is  less  easy,  however, 
to  indicate  its  pronunciation  than  that  of  Welsh.  It  may,  however,  he 
useful  to  hear  in  mind  that  the  vowels  have  the  Continental,  not  the 
English  value  (comp.  p.  xxxi) ;  and  that  the  frequently  occurring  aspiration 
of  a  consonant  has  the  effect  either  of  softening  it  or  of  effacing  it  altogether 
(thus  bh  =  «;,  dh  =  y^fh  miite,  and  ch  gxittural).  The  ordinary  tourist  will, 
however,  find  that  English  is  always  understood,  though  the  enterprising 
pedestrian  may  occasionally  stumble  upon  a  Gael  ignorant  of  all  save  his 
mother-tongue.  The  following  is  a  short  glossary  of  Gaelic  roots  of  fre- 
quent recurrence  in  the  names  of  places.  ^6er,  mouth,  confluence;  ac^ad// 
(ach,  auch),  a  field;  alt,  ault  (genitive  uilt),  a  brook;  a«,  a  diminutive 
termination;  aid^  high;  bal,  baile,  a  village  or  place;  5an,  white;  beag 
(beg),  little;  beinn  (ben),  a  mountain;  breac  (vreck^  vrackie),  speckled;  cam, 
cambus,  crooked;  ceann  (kin,  ken),  head;  clach,  a  stone,  clachan  (dim.), 
a  village;  dal,  a  field;  dearg,  red;  dubh  (dMj,  black;  dun,  a  hill-fort;  eas 
(ess),  waterfall ; /ad, /a(f«,  long;/o?rrt  (fyne),  white,  shining;  garbh  (garve), 
rough,  rugged;  glas,  gray;  gorm,  blue;  innis  (inch),  island;  infifiir  (inver), 
same  as  aber;  oil  (til),  cell,  church,  parish;  coille  (killie),  wood;  caol 
(kyle),  strait;  lag,  a  hollow;  linn,  linne,  a  pool;  mam,  m,eall,  a  rounded 
hill;  mor  (more),  great;  mitc  (gen,  mnic),  a  sow;  cuach,  quoich,  a  cup; 
ross,  a  point;  sruth,  stru,  struan,  running  water;  tulloch  (tilly,  tully),  a 
knoll;  tir  (tyre),  land;  uisge  (esk),  water  (usquebaugh,  water  of  life, 
hence  whiskey). 

63.  From  London  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow. 

The  traveller  may  choose  between  three  different  railway -routes  for 
his  journey  to  Scotland.  The  fast  trains  between  London  and  Edinburgh 
take  8V2-IO  hrs.  Fares  to  Edinburgh  57s.  Qd.,  32s.  8rf.  ;  to  Glasgow  58s.,  33s. ; 
reduced  return-fares  in  summer.  No  second  class.  Drawing-room  Cars 
are  attached  to  the  fast  trains  by  day  and  Sleeping  Cars  (os.  extra)  to  the 
night-expresses.  The  corridor-expresses  in  both  directions  have  1st  and 
3rd  class  Dining-Cars,  in  which  luncheon  (1st  cl.  2s.  6d.;  3rd  cl.  2s.),  tea  (Qd. 
and  6d.),  and  dinner  (3s.  Qd.  and  2s.  Qd.)  may  be  obtained.  Other  trains 
make  special  halts  for  dinner  (see  below)  ;  and  luncheon-baskets  (2s.  Qd.- 
3s.)  may  be  obtained  at  any  of  the  chief  stations.  The  opening  of  the  Forth 
Bridge  (p.  507)  has  reduced  the  through-journey  from  London  to  Aberdeen 
(p.  514)  to  121/4  (G.N.R.)  -15  hrs.  —  Steamers,  see  p.  471. 

a.   Via  Leicester,  Leeds,  and  Carlisle. 

Midland  and  North  British  Railways  ("Waverley  Eoute)  from^S^  Pan- 
eras  Station  to  (406  M.)  Edinburgh  (Waverley  Station)  in  9V2-IOV4  hrs.;  to 
(423  M.)  Glasgow  (St.  Enoch  Station)  in  93  vlOVi  hrs. 

From  London  to  (308  M.)  Carlisle,  see  R.  50.  A  short  way 
beyond  Carlisle  the  line  to  Glasgow  (Glasgow  and  South  Western 
Railway),  described  in  R.  64,  diverges  to  the  left,  while  the  Edin- 
burgh trains  follow  the  line  of  the  North  British  Co.,  running 
through  the  'Waverley  District'.  From  (3171/2  M.)  Longtown  a 
branch-line  diverges  to  (4^2  M)  Gretna  Green  (p.  471).  To  the 
left  lies  Solway  Moss,  where  the  Scots  were  defeated  by  the  English 
in  1542.  To  the  right,  near  (320  M.)  Scotch  Dyke,  is  Netherby 
Hall,  the  scene  of  'Young  Lochinvar'.  The  train  crosses  the  Esk 
and  the  Liddel,  and  ascends  the  valley  of  the  latter,  skirting  the 
Cheviots  (right).      322  M.  Riddinys    is  the  junction  of  a  line  to 


HAWICK.  63.  Route.     465 

Canobie  and  (7  M.)  Langholm.  At  (3*29  M.)  Keuhope  Foot  we  cross 
the  Kershope  Burn  and  enter  Scotland  (Roxburghshire).  —  332  M. 
Newcastleton ,  the  centre  of  the  district  oi'  Liddesdale  ^  the  home 
of  'Dan die  Dinmont'  (comp.  p.  425).  —  340  M.  Ricrarton  is  the 
junction  of  a  line  toReedsmouth  and  Hexham  (sec  p.  426).  Farther 
on  (left)  rise  the  Maiden  Paps  (1675  ft.). 

353 '/2M.  Hawick  f^Totrcr;  Victoria)^  a  woollen-making  town  with 
19,200  inhah.,  contains  little  to  detain  the  tourist.  About  3  M. 
to  the  S.  W.  is  Branksome  (Branxholme)  Tower,  which  still,  as  in 
the  'Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel',  belongs  to  the  Buccleuch  family. 

Beyond  Hawick  we  see  to  the  right  *Ruherslaw  (1390ft.),  a 
finely-shaped  hill  commanding  an  extensive  view.  To  the  right  of 
{358  M.)  Hassendean,  the  home  of  'Jock  o'  Hazeldean',  are  the 
picturesquely-wooded  Minto  Grays  (720  ft.;  *View),  in  the  grounds 
of  Minto  House,  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Minto.  —  366  M.  St.  Boswells 
is  the  nearest  station  to  (1  M.)  Dryburgh  Abbey  (p.  467);  walkers 
may  alight  here,  visit  the  abbey,  and  then  go  on  to  (4  M.)  Melrose. 

From  St.  Boswells  to  Kelso  and  Berwick,  35V25I.,  railway  in  2  hrs. 
(fares  bs.  6d.,  Is.  iid.).  The  line  runs  along  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tioeed. 
To  the  right  is  the  Waterloo  Monument,  on  the  top  oi  Penielheiigh  (775  ft.); 
to  the  left  is  Smailholm  Tower,  the  scene  of  Scott's  'Eve  of  St.  John'. 
Adjoinini;  the  latter  is  the  farm  oi  Sandyknoice,  where  Scott,  when  a  child, 
often  visited  his  grandfather.  —  Beyond  (9  M.)  Roxburgh^  the  junction  of 
the  line  to  (7  M.)  Jedburgh  (see  below),  the  train  crosses  the  Teviot. 

Floors  Castle,  the  niagnilicent  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Roxburghe,  is  seen 
among  the  trees  to  the  left  (visitors  admitted  to  the  grounds  on  Wed.). 
Near  Floors  are  the  scanty  remains  of  Roxburgh  Castle. 

IIV2M.  Kelso  (Cross  Keys;  Queen's  Head),  a  prosperous  little  market- 
town  with  4200  inhab.,  1  M.  from  the  station,  is  chiefly  of  interest  for  its 
-Abbey,  a  small  but  fine  ruin  in  the  Norman  and  E.  E.  styles,  founded 
by  David  I.  about  1130  and  destroyed  by  the  English  in  1545.  The  Museum 
(open  on  Mon..  Wed.,  A'  Frid.,  12-3)  contains  objects  of  local  interest.  — 
At  Ednain,  2  M.  to  the  N.E.,  is  an  obelisk  to  Thomson,  the  poet,  who 
was  born  there  in  1700.  —  Beyond  (16  M.)  Carham  we  cross  the  border 
And  enter  England. 

22  M.  Coldstream  (Newcastle  Arms)  gives  its  name  to  the  Coldstream 
Guards,  raised  here  by  General  Monk  in  1660.  The  station  is  on  the  Eng- 
lish side  of  the  Tweed,  I1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  which  is  in  Scotland. 
About  5  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  field  oi  Flodden.  where  the  Scottish  army,  led  by 
James  IV.,  was  defeated  by  the  En^'lish  in  1513.  A  branch-line  runs  from  Cold- 
stream to  Wooler,  Alnwick,  and  Ahimouth  (p.  424).  —  At  l25V2  ^1-)  Twizell  wf 
cross  the  Till.  The  Norman  keep  (12th  cent.)  of  C-TV2M.)  Norham  appears  in 
the  opening  scene  of  'Marmion'.  —  34  M.  Tweedmouih.  —  35V2  M.  Berwick-on- 
Tweed,  see  p.  425. 

Another  line  runs  from  St.  Boswells  to  (42  M.)  Berwick  (p.  425),  via 
(41/2  M.)  EarlMon,\v\\\i  the  Rhi/mer''s  Tower  (comp.  p.  466),  (22  M.)  2)mh5  (Swan), 
ajid  (31  M.)  Reston  Junction  (p.  468),  where  we  join  the  'East  Coa.'^t  Ko\ite\ 

[Jedburgh  (Spread  Eagle;  Royal).,  a  picturesque  little  border-town, 
with  a  stormy  past,  lies  on  the  Jed,  and  contains  about  3400  inhabitants. 
•Jedburgh  Abbey  (adm.  6d.),  founded  by  David  I.  in  HIS,  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful  ecclesiastical  ruins  in  Scotland  (late-Norman, 
with  subsequent  modilications).  Lord  Campbell  (1779-1861)  is  buried  in 
the  S.  aisle;  and  in  the  N.  tran.sept  is  the  tomb  of  the  ( ighth  ^larquL^  nt' 
Lothian,  with  a  recumbent  statue  by  G.  F.  Watts.  Queen  Mary  lodtied  in  an 
old  house  in  Queen  Street  in  1566,  and  Prince  Charles  Stuart  at  9  Cnslle- 
gate  (after  Prestonpans);  Burns  lived  at  27  Canongate  in  17S7 ,  Sir  David 
Brewster  (1781-1S6S)  was  born  in  a  house  (now  the  Victoria  Model-Lodging- 

Baedekeb's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit  30 


466     Route  63.  MELROSE.  From  London 

house)  in  the  same  street,  and  Scott  visited  Wordsworth  at  5  Abbey  Close 
(1805).  'Jeddart  Justice",  like  Lidford  Law  (p.  135),  is  proverbial;  and 
'Jeddart  Staves"  were  long  unpleasantly  familiar  to  the  English  Bor- 
derers. —  Excursions  may  be  made  from  Jedburgh  to  (2  M.)  Fernihersi 
Castle  (16th  cent.),  to  (4  M.)  the  Waterloo  Monument  on  Penielheugh  (comp. 
p.  465),  and  to  (2  M.)  Diinion  Hill  (1095  It.-,  "View).] 

The  three  hills,  or  rather  triple-peaked  hill,  that  have  for 
some  time  been  visible  to  the  left  are  theEildons  (1385  ft.),  which 
owe  their  present  appearance,  according  to  tradition,  to  the  agency 
of  the  devil,  working  at  the  bidding  of  the  wizard  Michael  Scott. 

Thomas  of  Ercildoun.  or'-Thomas  the  Rhymer'  (I3th  cent.)  is  said  to  have 
been  carried  off  by  the  Queen  of  the  Fairies,  and  detained  for  three  years, 
like  Tannhiiuser  In  the  Venusberg,  in  an  enchanted  land  inside  the  hills. 

As  we  approach  Melrose  we  have  (right)  a  view  of  the  abbey. 

369  M.  Melrose  C^ Abbey,  R.&A.  from  3s.  6c/.,  B.  2-3s.,  D.  3-bs.; 
George;  King's  Arms,  R.  2s.  Qd.,  B.  Is.  6d. :  Waverley  Temperance 
Hotel,  well  spoken  of,  near  the  station;  Waverley  Hydropathic, 
1/2  M.  from  the  station),  a  small  town  with  about  2000  inhab.,  is 
prettily  situated  on  the  Tweed,  The  Town  Cross,  at  the  head  of  the 
High  Street,  dates  from  the  14th  century. 

*Melrose  Abbey,  indisputably  the  finest  ruin  in  Scotland,  lies 
a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  N.  of  the  railway-station  (adm.  6d.). 
Originally  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  by  David  I.,  that  'sair  sanct 
for  the  crown',  the  abbey  was  afterwards  almost  wholly  destroyed 
by  Edward  II.  and  rebuilt  by  Robert  Bruce  (14th  cent.),  and  once 
more  destroyed  and  rebuilt  in  the  following  century. 

The  principal  part  of  the  present  remains  is  the  -Choir,  a  fine  example 
of  late-Gothic  (ca.  1450),  with  slender  shafts,  richly-carved  capitals,  elab- 
orate vaulting,  and  large  and  exquisitely -traceried  windows  (especially 
the  *E.  Window).  The  Transept  crosses  the  choir  near  its  E.  end.  Of 
the  Nave  there  are  comparatively  few  remains.  The  beautiful  sculp- 
tures throughout  the  church  were  sadly  defaced  at  the  Reformation.  On 
the  N.  side  are  two  Norman  arches.  Alexander  II.  and  the  heart  oi  Robert 
Bruce  are  interred  at  the  E.  end,  near  the  site  of  the  high-altar.  The 
tomb  of  Michael  Scott  is  pointed  out  in  the  chapel  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
choir  (to  the  E.  of  the  S.  transept),  and  Sir  David  Brewster  (see  p.  465)  is 
buried  in  the  churchyard,  close  to  the  S.  wall  of  the  aisle. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Tweed,  2  M.  above  Melrose,  lies 
*Abbotsford,  the  picturesque  home  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  (open  10-5; 
adm.  l.<.).  The  road  to  it  (carr.  65.,  coach  is.  Gd.)  leads  to  the  W. 
from  Melrose,  passing  the  Waverley  Hydropathic  Establishment  and 
the  village  of  Darnick,  with  its  old  'peel'  or  Border  tower. 

In  1811  Scott  bought  the  small  larm  of  Clarty  Hole,  changing  its  name 
to  Abbotsford,  planting  it  with  trees,  and  beginning  the  large  and  irreg- 
ularly-built mansion  which  he  occupied  till  his  death  in  1832.  The  rooms 
shown  include  the  great  novelists  Study,  the  Library,  the  Drawing  Room, 
the  Armoury,  and  the  Entrance  Hall.  They  contain  numerous  personal 
relics  of  Scott  and  also  many  historical  curiosities.  —  The  house  is  now 
owned  by  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Maxwell- Scott,  a  great-grand-daughter  of  Scott. 

Next  in  interest  to  Abbotsford  among  places  near  Melrose  is 
Dryburgh  Abbby,  where  Sir  Walter  Scott  is  interred  in  the  burial- 
vault  of  his  ancestors  (carr.  there  and  back  direct  8s,  coach  2s.). 


to  Edinburgh.  GALASHIELS.  63.  Route.     467 

The  pleasaniest  wav  to  make  this  excursion  is  to  walk  or  drive  via  the 
£•1^071  Hills  (p.  466)  and  St.  Boswells  (p.  465;  41/2  M.)  and  return  by  Be- 
merside  (6  M.;  carr.  for  the  round,  with  one  horse  lOs.  6d.,  with  two  13-155.). 
Both  routes  afford  charming  views,  the  most  extensive  being  that  from 
Bemerside  Hill.  Bemerside  has  belonged  to  the  family  of  Haig  for  seven 
centuries.  Between  Bemerside  and  Dryburgh  is  a  huge  and  rude  Statue  of 
William  Wallace.  Abbotsford  and  Dryburgh  can  easily  be  included  in 
one  dav's  excursion  from  Melrose,  even  by  the  pedestrian  (carr.  and  pair 
for  the  day  20-25s.). 

The  picturesque  and  extensive  ruins  of  *I)ryburgh  Abbey  (adm.  6d.) 
date  from  the  12-14th  cent,  and  include  parts  of  the  church,  the  chapter 
house,  the  refectory,  the  cloisters,  and  the  domestic  buildings.  Scott 
(d.  1832)  is  interred  in  St.  Mary''s  Aisle.  John  Gibson  Lockhart  (d.  1854), 
Scott's  son-in-law  and  biographer,  is  also  buried  here. 

After  leaving  Melrose  we  cross  the  Tweed.  —  373  M.  Galashiels 
(Commercial;  Abbotsford  Arms;  Royal),  a  busy  town  of  17,250  in- 
hab.,  is  noted  for  its  tweeds  and  tartans. 

From  Galashiels  a  short  branch  runs  to  (6  M.)  Selkirk.,  passing  (2V2M.) 
Abbotsford  Ferry.,  the  nearest  station  to  (1  M.)  Abbotsford  (see  p.  466).  — 
Selkirk.  ( County ;  Fleece;  Tozm  ^rms;  is  another  tweed-making  town  of  6000 
inhab.,  with  statues  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  and  Mungo  Park  (1771-1805;  see 
below).  A  delightful  excursion  may  be  made  hence  through  the  lovely 
and  much  besung  valley  of  the  Yarrow  to  (15  M.)  *St.  Mary's  Loch.  On 
the  way  we  pass  (2  M.)  Fhilip/iaugh,  where  Leslie  and  the  Covenanters 
defeated  Montrose  in  1645;  Bowhill,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch 
(visitors  admitted),  and  the  ruined  Newark  Tower  (these  both  on  the  oppo- 
site bank  of  the  river);  (4  M.)  Foulshiels .,  with  a  ruined  cottage  in  which 
Mungo  Park  (1771-1805)  wa.s  born;  (9  M.)  Yarrow  Church;  and  (I41/2  M.) 
Dryhope  Tower  (to  the  right),  near  which  we  reach  the  beginning  of  the  loch. 
The  usual  goal  of  the  excursion,  Tibbie  Shiels^s  Inn,  is  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
lake,  3  M.  farther  on.  On  the  W.  bank  is  the  Rodono  Hotel  (I).  3<,).  The 
district  in  which  the  loch  lies  is  called  Ettrick  Forest;  and  a  statue  of  James 
Hogg  (1770-1835),  the  'Ettrick  Shepherd",  has  been  erected  near  Tibbie 
Shiels's.  —  The  excursion  mav  be  continued  through  Moffat  Dale,  pa-^sing 
the  fine  waterfall  called  the  *Grey  Mare's  Tail,  to  (16  M.)  Moffat  (p.  470). 
Coaches  ply  thrice  weekly  from  Selkirk  to  St.  Marys  Loch  (fare  3s.,  return 
5.?.,   driver  I5.),   corresponding  with  the  coaches  to  Moffat  (see  p.  470). 

From  Galashiels  to  Peebles,  I8V2  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  At  (3V2  M.) 
Clovenfords,  above  the  junction  of  the  Gala  and.' Tweed,  are  Thomson's 
Vineries,  which  provide  the  London  market  with  immense  quantities  of 
grapes.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Tweed  is  Ashiestiel,  the  house  where  mo?t 
of  'Marmion'  and  the  'Lay'  was  written.  Beyond  (6  M.)  Thornilee  we  pass 
the  ruined  Elibank  Tower,  on  the  left.  —  10  M.  Walkerburn.  —  12  M.  Inner- 
leithen (St.  Ronan's;  Traquair  Arms),  a  small  watering-place  with  min- 
eral springs,  a  new  Pump  Room,  etc.  is  the  original  of  'St.  Runana  Well". 
—  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  is  Traquair  House,  supposed  to  be  the  'Tully- 
veolan"    of   'Waverley',  with  a  very  ancient  tower.  —  15  M.   Cardrona. 

131/2  M .  Peebles  ( Tontine;  Cross  Keys  ;  Lossock's  Temperance  Hotel;  "Hydro- 
pathic Establishment,  52s.  6d.  per  week),  an  ancient  town  with  4700  inhab., 
prettily  situated  on  the  Tweed.  The  old  castle  has  disappeared,  but  the  tow- 
ers of  two  venerable  churches  still  stand.  Peebles  was  the  native  place  of 
William  (1800-83)  and  Robert  (1802-71)  Chambers,  whose  name  is  commem- 
oraled  in  the  Chambers  Institute  (adm.  Sd.),  presented  to  the  town  by 
the  elder  brother.  Part  of  it  belongs  to  the  old  mansion  of  the  <Jueen3- 
berry  family  and  dates  from  the  16th  century.  The  Cross  Keys  is  believed 
to  be  the  prototype  of  Meg  Dods's  Cleiknm  Inn'  in  'St.  Ronans  Well'.  — 
About  IM.  to  the  W.  are  the  ruins  of  Neidpath  Castle,  finely  situated  on 
the  Tweed  ('View  from  the  top).  About  3V2  M.  farther  on,  on  the  S.  side  ot 
the  Tweed,  near  the  farm  of  Woodhouse,  is  the  ^ Black  Dwarf's  Cottage'.  — 
Many   other  pleasant    excursions    may   be  made    from  Peebles,    and    the 

30* 


468     Route  63.  RESTON.  From  London 

streams  in  the  vicinity  aflford  good  fishing.   —  From  Peehles  we  may   go 
on  to  (27  M.)  Edinburgh  by  train  via  Leadburn  and  Eskhank  (see  below). 

The  train  now  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Gala  Water.  From 
(3791/2  M.)  Stow  a  coach  (fare  Is.  6d.)  runs  to  (6  M.)  Lauder^ 
where  Archibald  Douglas,  Earl  of  Angus,  surnamed  'Bell  the  Cat', 
seized  and  hanged  Cochrane,  favourite  of  James  III.  (1482).  Beyond 
(390  M.)  Tynehead,  where  we  reach  the  highest  point  (900  ft.)  of 
this  part  of  the  line,  we  pass  the  ruins  of  Crichton  Castle  (15th 
cent. )  on  the  right  and  Borthwick  Castle  (1430 ;  with  room  occupied 
by  Queen  Mary  and  Bothwell)  on  the  left.  —  393  M.  Fushiebridge. 
—  394  M.  Gorebridge.  To  the  left  are  Dalhousie  Castle  and  Cockpen. 
Near  (397  M.)  Dalhousie  is  Newbattle  Abbey.,  the  tine  seat  of  the 
Marquis  of  Lothian ;  in  the  grounds  is  the  largest  beech  in  the 
kingdom,  33  ft.  in  girth.  398  M.  Eskbank,  the  station  for  Dalkeith 
(p.  486).    Arthur's  Seat  (p.  480)  comes  into  sight  on  the  left. 

403  M.  Portobello  (Brighton ;  Royal ;  Marine  Temperance),  the 
Margate  of  Edinburgh,  with  extensive  sands  and  a  promenade-pier 
(Ic?.;  band  on  Sat.  in  summer).  —  We  here  join  the  East  Coast 
Route  (R.  63b),  skirt  the  base  of  the  Calton  Hill  (p.  480),  with 
the  castellated  Prison,  and  enter  the  Waverley  Station  at  — 

406  M.  Edinburgh  (see  R.  65). 

b.  Yik  York,  Newcastle,   and  Berwick. 

Great  Northekn  ,  Xorth  Eastern,  and  North  British  Railways 
CEast  Coast  Route")  from  King's  Cross  to  (393  M.)  Edinburgh  in  8V2-IO  hrs.; 
to  (444  31.)  Glasgow  in  IO-II3/4  hrs.  Twenty  minutes  for  dinner  are  allowed 
at  York  by  the  train  starting  at  10  a.m.  The  afternoon  express  is  a  cor- 
ridor-train with  dining-cars.  Luncheon-baskets,  see  p.  464. 

From  London  to  (3351/ -2  M.)  Bericick,  see  R.  51.  —  Beyond  Ber- 
wick the  line  skirts  the  coast,  turning  inland  at  (341  M.)  Burn- 
mouth,  a  picturesque  fishing-village,  whence  a  branch-line  diverges 
to  (3  M.)  Eyemouth  (Cross  Keys),  a  busy  little  fishing-town,  with 
2570  inhabitants.  —  343  M.  Ayton.  347  M.  Keston  ( Wheat^heaf) 
is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Duns  and  St.  Boswells  (comp.  p.  465). 

Near  the  coast,  31,2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Reston  (omn.  is.),  is  the  village 
of  Coldingham  (New  Inn),  with  the  Transition  Norman  ruins  of  a  Bene- 
dictine priory,  founded  in  1098.  From  Coldingham  we  may  proceed  to  the 
N.  to  (2V2  M.)  'St.  Abb's  Head,  a  bold  rocky  promontory,  rising  300ft. 
above  the  sea.  On  it  are  a  Lighthouse  and  a  ruined  Church.  —  About  3V2M. 
farther  up  the  coast  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  '''Fast  Castle,  perched  upon  a 
precipitous  cliff  that  has  been  identified  with  the  'Wolfs  Crag"  of  the 
'Bride  of  Lammermoor".  "VS^alkers  who  have  come  thus  far  may  go  on  to 
rejoin  the  railway  at  (7  M.)  Cockburnspath  (see  below). 

Beyond  Reston  the  train  follows  the  course  of  the  Eye.  352  M. 
Grant's  House.  Beyond  (3561/2  M.)  Cockburnspath  (Inn)  we  again 
reach  thesea.  BbQ^/2^i.  Jnnerwick.  Fartheronwe  cioss  the  Broxburn, 
where  Cromwell  defeated  the  Scots  at  the  Battle  of  Dunbar  (1650). 

3631,2  M.  Dunbar  (Royal;  George;  Belle  Vue),  a  seaport  and 
fishing-station,  with  3600  inhab.,  is  visited  as  a  summer-resort 
and  has  good  golf-links.   The  scanty  ruins  of  the  old  Castle,  which 


to  Edinburgh.  HADDINGTON.  63.  Route.     469 

plays  a  prominent  role  in  Scottisli  history,  stand  on  a  crag  imme- 
diately above  the  harbour,  and  command  a  fine  view. 

Beyond  Dunbar  we  have  a  good  view  to  the  right  of  the  Bass 
Rock  (see  below) ,  North  Berwick  Law  (see  below),  and  the  Isle  of  May 
(see  below).  About  3  M.  to  the  N.  E.  of  (370  M.)  East  Linton  is 
Tyninyhame  House.,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Haddington,  surrounded 
by  finely-wooded  grounds,  which  are  open  to  the  public  on  .Saturday. 

3751/2  M.  Drem  is  the  junction  of  the  short  line  via  Dirleton 
(see  below)  to  (5  M.)  North  Berwick  (* Marine,  R.  &  A.  from  4s., 
D.  4s.  6d. ;  Royal,  at  the  station ;  Private  Hotels  and  Lodgings),  a 
very  favourite  seaside-resort,  rivalling  St.  Andrews  (p.  508).  Its 
attractions  include  a  good  sandy  beach,  picturesquely  interspersed 
with  rocks,  admirable  golfing-links,  and  a  neighbourhood  which 
affords  many  pleasant  excursions.  At  the  back  of  the  town  rises 
North  Berwick  Law  (612  ft.),  which  commands  a  delightful  view. 
Off  the  coast  are  several  rocky  islands,  the  most  important  of  which 
is  the  J5ass  Rock  (see  below).  In  a  field  near  the  station  are  the  ruins 
of  a  Cistercian  Monastery  (1216).  North  Berwick  is  within  3/4  hr. 
of  Edinburgh  by  quick  through-trains,  and  excursion-steamers  ply 
to  and  from  Leith  in  summer. 

Excursions.  About  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  is  Dirleton^  one  of  the  prettiest 
of  Scottish  villages,  with  a  ruined  Castle  (open  to  visitors  on  Thurs.). 

To  Ihe  E.  (2V2  M.)  is  Canty  Bay  (Hotel),  the  starting-point  for  a  visit 
to  the  Bass  Rock,  which  lies  IV2  M.  from  the  shore  (steam-launch  IO5.; 
lishing-hoat  less).  The  *Bass  Rock,  which  rises  abruptlj'  from  the  sea 
to  a  height  of  350  ft.,  is  the  haunt  of  myriads  of  solan  geese  and  other 
sea-birds.  On  it  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  Castle,  formerly  used  for  the  con- 
linement  of  English  prisoners  and  afterwards  of  Covenanters.  The  landing 
is  difficult  except  in  calm  weather.  —  On  the  coast,  about  V'-;  M.  beyond 
Canty  Bay,  are  the  ruins  of  *Tantallon  Castle  (adm.  free),  a  stronghold 
of  the  Douglases,  the  romantic  situation  and  appearance  of  which  are  most 
accurately  described  in  'Marmion\  —  Tyninghame  Woods  (see  above)  are 
3VjM.  beyond  Tantallon.  —  Excursion-steamers  ply  in  summer  to  (10  M.) 
the  Isle  of  May.,  on  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

379'  2  M.  Longniddry  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (4^2  ^^-^ 
Haddington  (George;  Black  Bull),  a  small  town  (^3770  inhab.)  on 
the  Tyne,  with  an  important  grain-market.  The  Knox  Institute 
commemorates  the  fact  tliat  John  Knox  was  born  in  the  suburb  of 
Giffordgate  in  1505.  Samuel  Smiles  and  Mrs.  Carlyle  (Jane  Welsh  ; 
d.  1866)  were  also  natives  of  Haddington;  and  the  latter  is  com- 
memorated by  a  tombstone  in  the  churchyard. 

Just  before  reaching  (3831/2  M.)  Prestonpans  we  pass,  to  the 
right,  the  field  of  Prestonpans,  where  Prince  Charles  Stuart  defeat- 
ed the  Royalists  in  1745.  The  monument  to  the  left,  close  to  the 
line,  is  to  the  memory  of  Col.  Gardiner,  who  fell  in  the  battle. 
Prestonpans  takes  its  name  from  its  salt-pai\s,  and  has  given  name 
to  a  light  table-beer.  Prestonpans  is  also  the  station  for  Tranent, 
Ormiston  (with  an  old  cross),  and  the  fishing-village  of  Cockenzie. 
—  A  little  farther  on  we  pass  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Pinkie 
(1547  ;  to  the  left).     3861/2  M.  Jnveresk.  —  388i/oM.  New  Hailes. 


470      Eoute  63.  MOFFAT.  From  London 

Xew  Hailes  is  the  junction  of  a  short  line  to  {V/2  M.)  Musselburgh 
(Musselburgh  Arms),  a  small  seaport,  much  frequented  by  Edinburgh 
golfers.  Horse-races  are  held  here  in  autumn.  To  the  W.  of  Musselburgh 
is  the  fishing- village  of  Fisherroic.  which  extends  nearly  to  Joppa,  a  suburb 
of  Portobello  (p.  468). 

At  (390  M.)  Portobello  we  join  the  Waveiley  Route  (R.  63a). 

393  M.  Edinburgh,  see  R.  65. 

c.    Vifi,  Crewe  and  Carlisle. 

L.X.W.  AND  Caledonian  Railways  ('West  Coast  Eoute")  to  (400  M.) 
Edinburgh  in  8V2-I2V2  hrs.  -,  to  (401  M.)  Glasgow  in  83, 4-123/4  hrs.  Dinner 
at  Preston  (20  min.):  in  the  dining-cars  (p.  464)  on  leaving  Preston.  Lun- 
cheon-baskets, see  p.  464. 

From  London  to  (299  M.)  Carlisle^  see  R.  50.  The  train  runs 
towards  the  N.W.  Near  (306  M.)  iloriston  it  crosses  the  Esk  and 
enters  the  'Debatable  Ground".  View  to  the  left  of  the  Solway 
Firth.    3031/2  ^^-  Gretna  Junction  (comp.  p.  471). 

From  Gretna  Junction  to  Dumfries  and  Stranraer^   see  R.  64. 

We  now  cross  the-SarA;  and  enter  Scotland.  313  M.  Kirkpatrick; 
317  M.  Kirtle  Bridge.,  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  (5^2  ^1-)  Annan 
(p.  471).  At  Kirkconnell,  21/2  M.  to  the  N.,  is  the  grave  of  'Helen 
of  fair  Kirkconnell  Lee'.  —  320  M.  Ecclefechan  (7nn ,  plain),  a 
small  village  in  a  somewhat  bleak  district,  taking  its  name  from 
the  Irish  St.  Fechan  (7th  cent. ),  contains  the  birth-house  and  grave 
of  Thomas  Carlyle  (1795-1881).  The  house  (small  fee)  ,  on  the  right 
side  of  the  village-street  as  we  come  from  the  station,  is  distin- 
guished by  the  archway  leading  through  it;  it  contains  several 
interesting  memorials  and  relics  of  Carlyle.  Travellers  by  the 
fast  trains ,  who  wish  to  visit  Ecclefechan ,  alight  at  Lockerbie 
(see  below). 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  hill  of  Bumswark  or  Birrenswark  (920  ft.; 
view),  with  interesting  Roman  camps  and  British  (?)  forts. 

326  M.  Lockerbie  (King's  Arms;  Blue  Bell),  a  small  town  with 
2500inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (iiM.]  Dumfries  (p.  472). 

340  M.  Beattock  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms)  is  the  junction  for  (2  M.) 
Moffat  ( Annandale  Arms;  Buccleuch  Arms;  *  Hydropathic ;  Lodg- 
ings), a  small  town  with  2300  inhab.  (doubled  in  the  season),  on 
the  Annan^  and  one  of  the  chief  inland  watering-places  of  Scotland. 
Omnibuses  ply  daily  (6c?.)  to  the  sulphureous-saline  Wells  (625  ft.), 
which  lie  I1/4  M.  from  the  town  and  about  300  ft.  above  it. 

The  Environs  of  Moffat  are  pretty  and  afford  several  pleasant  excur- 
sions, among  the  most  popular  being  those  to  (1  M.)  Gallow  Hill,  the 
wooded  height  to  the  X.  of  the  town;  Hartfell  Spa,  41/4  M.  to  the  X.E.-, 
the  Devil's  Beef  Tub  (which  figures  in 'Redgauntlef),  5  M.  to  the  N.;  Beld 
Craig,  a  wooded  glen  with  a  'linn\  or  waterfall,  3V2  M.  to  the  S.E.;  the 
(IV2  M.)  Meeting  of  the  Waters  (the  Annan,  the  Moffat,  and  the  Fvan)-,  and 
Garpol  Linn,  3  M.  to  the  S.  —  Coaches  ply  thrice  weekly  during  the 
season  (June-Sept.)  to  (11  M.)  the  ''Grey  Mare's  Tail  and  (15  M.)  St  Mary's 
Loch  (comp.  p.  467:  fare  3s.,  return  5s.,  driver  extra). 

Beyond  Beattock  we  reach  the  highest  point  of  the  line  (1030  ft.) 
and  begin  to  descend  into  Clydesdale.   At  (3521/2  M-)  Elvanfoot  we 


to  Edinburgh.         CARSTAIRS  JUNCTION.      63.  Route.    471 

cross  the  infant  Clyde.  —  From  (SBG^/o  M.)  Symington,  the  best 
station  for  an  ascent  of  Tinto  Hill  (2300  ft.;  view),  a  branch-line 
diverges  to  (3  M.)  Biggar  and  (19  M.)  Peebles  (p.  467). 

At  (  3731/2  ^f)  Carstairs  Junction  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rms.)  the  Cale- 
donian Railway  forks,  the  Vi.  branch  going  on  to  Glasgow,  and  the 

E.  arm  to  Edinbnrgh.  Those  bound  for  the  Falls  of  Clyde  change 
carriages  here  for  (41/2  ^^0  Lanark  (p.  490). 

The  chief  stations  on  the  Glasgow  line,  which  traverses  an  iron  and 
coal  district,  are  (8V2  M.)  Carluke,  (ISM-M.)  Wishaw ,  (16  31.)  Motherwell 
(Roval),  the  junction  of  lines  to  Hamilton  (p.  490)  and  Whitf'let  (for  Airdrie 
and"  Coatbridge),  and  to(6M.)  Uddings'.on  (p.  486).  —  27  M.  Glasgow  (Cen- 
tral Station),  see  p.  4S6. 

The  Edinburgh  line  turns  to  the  right  (N.).  375  M.  Carnwath. 
Beyond  (379 1/2  ^^O  Auchengray  the  train  skirts  the  N.  slopes  of 
the  Pentland  Hills.  To  the  riglit,  at  (3831/2^1.)  Cobbinshaw,  is  the 
large  reservoir  of  the  Union  Canal.  At  (391  M.)  Midcalder  we  join 
the  direct  line  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  via  Hclytown  (p.  486). 
Mineral  oil-works  abound  in  this  district.  395 1/2  ^I-  Carrie  Hill. 
Farther  on,  Corstorphine  Hill  (p.  484)  comes  into  sight  on  the 
left,  and  Arthurs  Seat  (p.  480)  on  the  right.  398V2  ^I-  Slateford. 
3991/4  M.  Merchiston. 

400  M.  Edinburgh  (Caledonian  Station),  see  R.  65. 

d.  By  Sea. 

The  steamers  of  the  London  &  Edinburgh  Shipping  Company  leave 
the  Hermitage  Wharf.,  Wapping,  every  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.  for  Leith  (p.  483); 
those  of  the  General  Steam  Navigation  Co.  leave  Irongate  and  St.  Kuther- 
ine''s  Wharf  every  Wed.  and  Sat.  for  Granton  (p.  481).  Fares  in  each  case 
2Qs.,  i6s.   (food  extra);  duration  of  voyage  about  30-3G  hrs. 

There  is  also  a  service  on  Men.,  Wed.,  &  Sat.  from  the  Carron  and 
London  and  Continental  Wharves  to  Grangemouth  i2Qs.,  I65.),  for  Glasgow 
(2Gs.,  '24s.,  17s.  6(/.)  and  the  West  of  Scotland.     The  steamers  sail  up  the 

F.  rth  and  under  the  Forth  Bridge  (p.  498). 

Steamers  of  the  Clyde  Shipping  Company  leive  .S7.  Katherine  Dock 
every  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.  for  Greenock  and  Glasgow  (30s.,  12s.  6d.), 
via  the  S.  of  England  and  the  Irish  Channel,  The  Frid.  steamers  touch 
at  Southampton  and  Plymouth. 

These  routes  may  be  recommended  to  leisnrely  travellers  in 
fine  weather. 


64.  From  Carlisle  to  Dumfries  and  Stranraer. 

106  M.  Railway  in  5-5' '4  hrs.  (17s.  8'/.,  8s.  10(/.).  Through  sleeping- 
cars  run    from  London  (Euston  and  St.  Pancras)  to  Stranraer. 

From  Carlisle  to  (9'/2  M.)  Gretna  Junction,  see  p.  470.  Our 
line  here  turns  to  the  left.  iOV2  -^U  Gretna  Green,  formerly  cele- 
brated for  its  runaway  marriages  of  couples  from  beyond  the  Border, 
the  ceremony  being  generally  performed  by  the  village  blacksmithv 
—  18  M.  Annan  (Buck;  Queensberry),  a  small  town  with  4800  in- 
hab.,  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Rev.  Edward  Irving  (179'2-1834). 

A  line  runs  to  the  S.  from  Annan,  across  the  Soluay,  to  join  the 
Carlisle  and  Maryport  Railway  (p.  384).  —  To  Kirtle  Bridge,  see  p.  470. 


472    Route  64.  DUMFRIES.  From  Carlisle 

25  M.  Ruthwell.  About  i^j^  M.  to  tlie  S.  of  the  station,  in  the 
church,  is  a  *Runic  Cross,  the  inscription  on  which  is  said  to  be 
the  earliest  piece  of  written  English  extant.  It  dates  from  the  7th 
cent.,  and  after  being  broken  in  the  17th  cent.,  was  restored  in  1802. 

33  M.  Dumfries  (King's  Arms;  Queensberry ;  Commercial^  with 
a  room  in  which  Prince  Charles  spent  a  night  in  1745:  *Station  ; 
Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms),  the  chief  town  in  S.  W.. Scotland,  with  17,800 
inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Nith.  A  conspicuous  building  is  New 
Grey  friars  Church ,  occupying  the  site  of  the  old  castle.  Close 
by  lay  the  Greyfriars  Monastery,  in  the  church  of  which  Bruce 
slew  the  Red  Comyn  (1306).  Adjacent  is  the  Burns  Monument, 
erected  in  1882.  Burns's  house  in  Bank  St.  is  marked  by  an  in- 
scription. The  house  in  which  he  died  (21st  July,  1796)  is  in  Burns 
St.,  a  lane  leading  out  of  St.  Michael  Street,  next  to  the  Industrial 
School,  on  which  are  a  bust  and  inscription.  His  grave  in  the 
churchyard  of  St.  Michael's  is  covered  by  a  Mausoleum  (adm.  3(i.), 
in  a  tasteless  classical  style.  The  Globe  Inn  (entr.  by  44  High  St.), 
a  favourite  resort  of  the  poet,  contains  his  chair  and  lines  cut  by 
him  with  a  diamond  on  the  window.  T\ie  Statue  of  Burns,  in  Church 
Place,  is  by  Mrs.  D.  0.  Hill.  The  old  town-buildings,  with  a  tower 
of  1707,  are  known  as  the  Mid-Steeple.  The  Old  Bridge  (13th  cent.) 
connects  the  town  with  the  suburb  of  Maxwelltown,  in  which  is  the 
Observatory  (adm.,  Qd. ;  view),  containing  a  small  museum. 

Environs.  Crossing  the  bridge  to  Maxwelltown,  taking  the  first  turn 
to  the  right,  and  following  the  road  to  the  N.,  we  reach  (IV2  M.)  Lin- 
cluden  Abbey,  prettily  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Cluden  and  the 
Nith.  The  Abbey,  a  Benedictine  house,  was  founded  in  the  i2th  cent., 
but  the  present  remains  are  chiefly  of  a  later  date  (14-15th  cent.).  The 
walk  may  be  continued  up  the  Cluden  to  (3  M.)  Ivongray.  the  churchyard 
of  which  contains  the  grave  of  Helen  Walker,  the  oriiiinal  of  'Jeanie 
Deans',  marked  by  an  inscription  by  Sir  Walter  Scott.  About  V^  M. 
farther  on  is  an  interestintc  Covenanters'"  Monument.  —  On  the  estuary  of 
the  Kith,  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  Dumfries,  is  GlencapU  (Nith;  Ship),  the  'Por- 
tanferry'  of  'Guy  Mannering'.  a  small  watering-place,  and  3  M.  farther, 
on  the  Solway.,  is  'Caerlaverock  Castle  (the  'Ellangowan"  of  'Guy  Manner- 
ing'), an  ancient  stronghold  of  the  Maxwells  (Earls  of  Nithdale),  dating 
in  its  present  form  mainly  from  the  15th  century.  Caerlaverock  churchyard, 
2  M.  to  the  X.  of  the  castle,  contains  the  graveof  'Old  Mortality'  (R.  Pater- 
son).  —  Another  charming  excursion  may  be  taken  to  (71/2  M.)  *New  or 
Sweetheart  Abbey,  to  the  W.  of  the  Nith  estuary.  The  Abbey  was  founded 
in  1275  by  Devorguilla  Balliol,  and  derives  its  name  (douce  coeur)  from  the 
fact  that  she  had  the  heart  of  her  husband  John  Baliol  (see  p.  238)  buried 
here  in  her  own  tomb.  This  excursion  may  be  combined  with  the  pre- 
ceding by  crossing  the  ferry  (id.)  from  (2i/2  M.)  WoodHde  to  Glencaple  (see 
above).  From  Sweetheart  Abbey  walkers  may  go  on  to  (3V2  M.)  the  top 
of  Criffel  (1856  ft.:  n'iew). 

From  Dumfries  to  Glasgow,  92  M.,  railway  in  2-B^/i  hrs.  (fares  135. 
9J.,  6s.  iOd.).  —  Soon  after  leaving  Dumfries,  we  have  a  view  of  Lincluden 
Abbey  (see  above)  to  the  left.  On  the  same  side,  8-4  M.  farther  on,  is  the 
white  farm-house  of  Ellisland,  where  Burns  wrote  'Tarn  0'  Shanter'.  — 
141/2  M.  y7ior«7i?7/(Buccleuch  Arms)  contains  a  monument  to  Joseph  Thomson 
(18o8-95),  the  African  explorer,  a  native  of  the  town.  In  Ihe  vicinity  are 
OVs  M.)  Drumlanrig  Castle  (gardens  and  park  open  on  Tues.  &  Frid.)  and 
(3  M.)  Crickhope  Linn.     Near  Moniaive.  7  M.  to  the  S.W.,  lies  Craigenputtock, 


to  Stranraer.  CASTLE  DOUGLAS.  64.  Route.     473 

lor  many  years  tLe  borne  of  Tiioiuas  Carlvle,  who  wrote  'Sartor  Resartus' 
here.  —  26V2  M.  Sanquhar  (i^ueeusberry  Arms),  with  a  ruined  castle.  A 
monument  marks  the  site  of  the  old  Cross  to  which  the  'Sanquhar  Decla- 
rations' were  afiixed  by  the  Covenanters  Richard  Cameron,  in  16SU,  and 
James  Renwick,  in  1685.  37  M.  New  Cumnock:  42V,;  M.  Old  Cumnock.,  the 
junction  of  branches  to  Ayr  (p.  491)  on  the  left,  and  Muirkirk  and  Lanark 
(p.  490)  on  the  right.  The  train  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct  over  the  Lugar, 
celebrated  by  Burns.  44V2  M.  Aiichinleck^  with  the  mansion  of  the  Bos- 
well  family.  —  49  M.  Mauchline  (Loudoun  Arms).,  where  Burns  married 
Jean  Armour,  is  the  junction  of  another  line  to  Ayr.  Burns  spent  several 
of  the  most  important  years  of  his  life  at  Mauchline  and  at  the  farm  of 
Mossgiel,  IV2  M.  to  theN.,  and  wrote  here  many  of  his  best-known  poems. 
The  -Braes  of  Ballochmyle'  are  IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Mauchline. 

58V2  M.  Kilmarnock  (George),  a  busy  manufacturing  town  of  28,5uO 
inhab.,  possesses  an  elaborate  monument  to  Burns  (adm.  2t/.),  with  a 
museum  of  relics,  including  MSS.  of  several  of  the  poet's  best-known 
poems  and  all  the  editions  of  his  works  hitherto  published.  The  tlrst 
edition  of  Burns's  poems  issued  from  the  press  at  Kilmarnock  in  1786. 
Branch-lines  diverge  here  to  Troon  (p.  491)  and  Irvine  (p.  491).  —  The  rest  of 
the  route  to  Glasgow  calls  for  no  comment.  The  expresses  run  by  Barrhead, 
the  slow  trains  by  Dairy.  —  92  M.  Glasgow  (8t.  Enoch's  Station),  see  p.  486. 

Beyond  Dumfries  the  Stranraer  line  crosses  the  Nith,  and,  enter- 
ing the  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  runs  towards  the  S.  —  471/0  M. 
Dalbeattie  (Maxwell  Arms),  a  pleasant  little  town  (3150  inhab.), 
with  large  granite -quarries  and  works.  —  53  M.  Castle  Douglas 
(Douglas  Arms),  the  chief  town  of  Galloway,  with  2870  inhab., 
lies  on  the  N.  side  of  Carlinywark  Loch.  Excursions  may  be  made 
to  (21/2  M.)  Threave  Castle,  a  stronghold  of  the  Black  Douglas,  on 
an  island  in  the  Dee;  to  (8  M.)  Auchencairn  (omn.  four  times 
weekly;  Is.),  etc. 

A  branch-line  runs  S.  to  (10  M.) Kirkcudbright,  pron.  A'u-coot/'//  (Selkirk 
Ar7ns;  Royal),  a  clean  little  town  (2500  inhab.),  at  the  head  of  the  estuary 
of  the  Dee.  About  V2  M.  to  the  S.  is  St.  Mary's  Isle  (no  adm.),  now  a 
peninsula,  with  a  heronry.  About  6  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  '  DunJrennan  Abbey, 
founded  about  1142  (key  at  a  cottage  near  the  inn).  A  coach  (Is.  6t/.)  plies 
twice  daily  from  Kirkcudbright  to  (81/2  M.)  Gatehouse  of  Fleet  (Murray 
Arms),  a  prettily-situated  little  town,  whence  another  coach  goes  on  to 
(12  M.)  Creelown  (see  below),  passing  near  the  monument  of  Samuel  Ruther- 
ford (c.  ltL)0-1661),  AnwoUi  Church,  of  which  he  was  minister,  and  Car- 
doness  Castle.  —  (jratehouse  of  Fleet  to  Dromore,  see  below. 

From  (59^/2  M.)  Parton,  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Ken,  an  omnibus 
{is.  6(i.)  runs  to  (9  M.)  Dairy,  a  favourite  angling -resort.  — 
62  M.  New  Galloway;  the  town  lies  5  M.  to  the  N.  (omn.  tluice  a 
(lay  ;  going  on  twice  daily  to  Dairy,  and  once  to  Carsphairii).  From 
(72  M.)  Dromore,  an  omnibus  runs  twice  daily  to  (G  M.)  Gatehouse 
of  Fleet  (see  above)  ;  77  M.  Crectoun,  on  the  E.  shore  of  Wiytown 
Bay.  —  8272  ^i-  Newtown  Stewart  (Galloway  Arms;  Grapes), 
with  2300  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  Cree ,  is  a  convenient 
centre  for  excursions  to  (13  M.)  *Loch  Trool,  etc. 

Fkom  Newtown  Stewart  to  Whithoks,  19  M.,  branch-line  in 
55  minutes.  —  7  31.  Wigtown  (Galloway  Arms)  is  a  small  town  (15uO 
inhab.)  on  the  E.  bank  of  Wigtown  Bay.  l)n  a  commanding  site  at  the 
entrance  to  the  town  is  the  Martyrs'  Memorial,  commemorating  Margaret 
MacLachlan  (aged  63)  and  Margaret  Wilson  (a  girl  of  18),  two  Covenanters 
who  were  tied  to  stakes  on  the  beach  and  drowned  by  the  rising  tide  of 
the  Solway  in  1685.     They  are  buried   in  the  parish-churchyard.  —  From 


474     Route  65.  EDINBURGH.  Hotels. 

(11  M.)  WhaupMU  an  omnibus  plies  twice  daily  to  (li/j  hr.)  Foit  William, 
on  Luce  Bay  (to  Glenluce,  see  below).  15  51.  Millisle  is  the  junction  for 
(1  31.)  Oarlies'own  (inns).  —  19  31.  Whithorn  (Grapes)  possesses  a  ruined 
Prioru  Church,  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  earliest  Christian  church 
in  Scotland,  built  by  St.  Ninian  (366-432).  At  lile  of  WhUhorn.  3^/4  31.  to 
the  8.  (omnibus  daily,  fare  Qd,),  is  another  ruined  chapel  of  St.  !Kinian. 

Near  (96  M.)  Glenluce  are  the  remains  of  Luce  Abbey  (12-13th 
cent.).  View  across  Luce  Bay  to  the  Mull  of  Galloway.  Farther 
on,  the  direct  line  from  Stranraer  to  Ayr  and  Glasgow  diverges  to 
the  right.  10272  ^^-  Castle  Kennedy,  with  Loch  Inch  Castle,  the 
seat  of  the  Earl  of  Stair,  and  the  ruins  of  Castle  Kennedy.  The 
*Grounds  of  Castle  Kennedy  (open  on  Wed.  &  Sat.)  are  remarkable 
for  their  variety  of  coniferous  trees  and  their  'Dutch  Garden'. 

106  M.  Stranraer  (^  6'eor</e ;  King's  Arms),  a  thriving  little  seaport 
(6200  inhab.),  at  the  head  of  Loch  Ryan,  the  steamers  from  which 
afford  the  shortest  sea-passage  to  Ireland  (to  Larne,  2hrs.).  Pleasant 
excur.sions  may  be  made  in  the  Rhinns  of  Galloicay,  the  peninsula 
on  "which  Stranraer  lies.  The  railway  goes  on  to  (7  M.)  Portpatrick 
(Downshire  Arms).  —  From  Stranraer  to  Gir van,  Ayr,  and  Glasgow, 
see  p.  491. 

65.  Edinburgh. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Waverlei/  Station  (PI.  E,  4),  of  the  North  British 
Railway,  near  the  E.  end  of  Princes  St.,  for  trains  to  London  (via  Newcastle 
and  York,  or  via  Carlisle  and  Leeds),  to  Glasgow,  and  to  the  N.  and  E.  of 
Scotland-,  also  for  the  Suburban  Line  (see  below).  —  2.  Caledonian  Station 
(PI.  C,  4),  at  the  W.  end  of  Princes  Street,  for  trains  to  London  via  Carlisle 
and  Crewe,  to  Liverpool  and  Manchester,  to  Glasgow  and  Greenock,  and  to 
the  S.  and  S.W.  of  Scotland.  —  3.  Haymarket  Station  (PI.  A,  5),  a  second 
station  of  the  N.B.Pi..,  where  almost  all  the  trains  to  and  from  the  W. 
stop.  —  All  the  principal  hotels  are  within  the  Is.  cab-fare  from  the 
Waverley  and  Caledonian  Stations.  —  The  Suburban  Railway  runs  irom 
the  Waverley  Station  to  Abbeyhill,  Pievshill ,  Portobello,  Duddingston  d: 
Craigmillar,  Neiclngton,  Blackford  Hill,  Morningside  Road.  Craig lockhart, 
Oorgie,  Haymarket,  and  (13  31.)  Waverley. 

Hotels.  The  best -situated  are  those  in  Princes  Street,  to  the  W.  of 
the  Waverley  Station:  —  'Royal  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  No.  53;  'Balmoral  (PI.  b; 
D,  4),  No.  91 ;  'Palace  (PI.  g ;  C,  4),  No.  117a,  at  the  corner  of  Castle  Street ; 
^Clarendon  (PI.  h;  D,4),  No.  104;  Alexandra  (No.  124),  Central  (No.  121), 
between  Charlotte  St.  and  Castle  St. ;  Windsor  (PI.  c;  D.  4),  No.  100;  County 
Hotel,  Lothian  Road;  Rutland  (PI.  m;  C,  4),  adjoining  the  Caledonian 
Station,  second-class.  Charges  at  most  of  these:  R.  &  A.  from  4*.,  B.  2s. 
6o;.-3s.,  D.  4s. -5s.  Qd.  —  Those  in  Princes  Street  to  the  E.  of  tne  Waverley 
Station  are  somewhat  cheaper:  Royal  British  (PI.  v;  E,  3),  22  Princes 
St.,  commercial;  Douglas,  at  the  corner  of  St.  Andrew's  St.;  Waterloo 
(PI.  k;  E,  3),  24  Waterloo  Place.  —  The  following  are  first-class  Private 
Hotels  ('pens'.  10-12s.) :  Bedford,  83  Princes  St.  (PI.  D,  4);  Roxburghe  (PI. 
n;  C,  4),  38  Charlotle  Sq.,  quiet:  Veitch  (PI.  p;  C,  3),  127  George  St.; 
Maitland,  Maitland  St.,  quiet;  Grosvenor  House,  22  Grosvenor  St.  (from 
7  s.).  —  Commercial  Hotels:  Imperial  (PI.  1;  E,  4),  Market  St.,  near  the 
Waverley  Station;  Hanover  (PI.  x;  D,  3),  10  Hanover  St.;  George  (PI.  u  ; 
D,  3),  21  George  St. ;  Milne  (PI.  w;  E,  3),  145  Leith  St.,  R.  &  A.  3s.,  B.  2s.; 
Ship  (PI.  y;  E,  3),  7  East  Register  St. ;  John's  (PI.  z;  E,  4),307  High  St.; 
these  last  unpretending,  R.  &  A.  2s.  6cZ.  —  Temperance  Hotels:  *Old  Waver- 
ley (PI.  q;  E,  3),  43  Princes  St. ;  Cockburn  (PI.  r;  E,  4),  close  to  the  Waver- 
ley  Station,  commercial;  New  Waverley  (PI.  s;  E,  3),  Darling's  Regent  \/ 


^.-.SST' 


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Tramways.  EDINBURGH.  65.  Route.    475 

{PI.  t;  E,  3),  both  in  Waterloo  PI. ;  K.  &  A.  at  these  from  2s.  Qd.  —  Bk.a.il. 
Hills  Hotkl,  3/^  M.  bevfjud  Moruingside  Kuad  Statiun  ([>.  484),  new.  — 
Chaiglockiiakt  Hyukofathic  Estaklishmknt,  2V'2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Edin- 
burgh, terms  8s.  Bd.  per  day,  525.  Qd.  per  week. 

Restaurants,  liopal  British,  19  22  Princes  St. ;  Mttropole,  23  Hanover  St. ; 
' Littlejohn,  81  Leith  St.  -,  Blair^  37  George  St. ;  Daish.  3  St.  Andrew  St.  5  Hun- 
ter dc  Glover  (turtle-soup  ;  good  wines),  Grant.,  Nos.  3  &  6  North  St.  Andrew 
St.  (these  last  five  also  confectioners);  The  Caf6,  J29  Princes  St..  'Edinburgh 
Cafi.,  70  Princes  St.  (no  alcoholic  liquors  at  the  latter);  Spiers  d-  Pond.,  at  the 
Waverley  Station ;  Rutherford^  5  Leith  St.  (for  gentlemen  only) ;  also  at  many 
others  of  the  above-named  hotels.  —  Beer  may  be  obtained  at  most  of  these. 
'■Edinburgh  Ale\  now  little  drunk,  is  sweet  and  heavy.  Lager  Beer  may 
be  obtained  at  Daish' s ,  the  Bodega  (see  below),  etc.  Wine  is  generally 
dear:  good  at  the  bar  of  the  Bodega  Co..  7  South  St.  Andrew  St. 

Confectioners.  ' Liitlejohn,  Blair,  Hunter  d:  Glover,  Grant.,  see  above; 
"Mackie,  108  Princes  St.;  "Aitchison,  77  Queen  St. ;  U'Vitie,  24  Queensferry 
St.;  Ritchie,  24  Princes  St.  (shortbread  and  other  Scottish  cakes  at  all  these; 
ices  in  summer).  'Ferguson  ('Edinburgh  Rock'  and  other  sweetmeats),  Mel- 
bourne Place,  at  the  corner  of  High  St.  (PI.  E,  4). 

Baths.  Turkish  Baths,  90  Princes  St.  (2s.  6(/.);  Corporation  Baths,  with 
a  swimming-basin ,  in  Inlirmarv  St.  (PL  F,  4) ;  Baths  at  12  Kicolson  Sq 
(PL  F,  5;  to  the  S.).     Salt-water  Baths  at  Trinity  (p.  484). 

Theatres.  Lyceum  (PL  C,  5),  Grindlay  St.;  Royal  (PL  E ,  3) ,  Leith 
Walk.  —  Music  Halls.  Operetta  House,  Chambers  St.;  Empire  Palace  (PL 
E,  6),  Nicolson  St. 

Cabs.  For  1-2  peis,  V2  M.  6c;.  (minimum  fare  from  railway -station, 
Is.),  11/2  M.  Is.,  each  addit.  '/z  M.  6c/.;  luggage  above  100  lbs.  6(i.  extra. 
By  time:  2s.  per  hr. ;  drives  in  the  environs  Ss.  per  hr.  Double  fares 
at  night  (12  to  7).     Fare  and  a  half  on  Sun.,  if  ordered  at  an  office. 

Tramways  (now  being  cabled;  to  be  complete  in  1898).  The  central 
point  is  the  Register  House  (PL  E,  3),  whence  lines  radiate  to  Leith 
(p.  483),  Portobello  (p.  468),  Neicington  (PL  F,  6),  Colinton  Road,  Morningside 
(PL  C,  6),  Colthridge,  etc.  (fares  i-bd.).  —  A  circular  line,  starting  from  the 
Register  House,  runs  round  the  S.  half  of  the  city  via  \\xe.  North  an  A.  South 
Bridges,  Neicington,  Morningside,  the  Lothian  Road,  and  Princes  St.  (fare  for 
the  round  Qd.;  good  view  of  the  city  from  the  top  of  the  cars).  —  Cable 
Tramways  run  from  the  Mound  to  Inverleith  Row  (lares  l-2d. ;  with  con- 
necting omnibuses  to  Granton.  Trinity,  and  Newhaven)  and  from  Frederick 
Street  to  Stockbridge  (PL  B,  C,  2)  and  Comely  Bank. 

Omnibuses  and  Coaches,  starling  from  or  near  the  Register  House, 
run  to  Cramond,  Foi-th  Bridge,  and  Quetns/eiry,  Liberton,  Dalkeith,  Roslin, 
etc. ;   and  from  Coltbridge  (tramway-terminus  ,    see  above)  to  Corstorphine. 

City  Guides,  with  badges,  6c/.  per  hr.,  3-5s.  per  day   (unnecessary). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  E,  3),  at  the  E.  end  of  Princes  St. 

Steamers.  From  Leith.  To  London,  see  p.  471 ;  2-3  times  daily  to  Aber- 
dour;  daily  in  summer  to  Stirling;  4-6  times  weekly  in  summer  to  Aberdeen 
(fares  7s.,  4«.);  thrice  weekly  to  Dundee;  twice  weekly  to  Antwerp  (2/.), 
Cromarty  (15*.),  Hamburg  (50s.),  Inverness  (10s.),  Kirkwall  (22s.),  Lerwick 
(26s.).  Newcastle  (7s.),  Rotterdam  {'21.),  Thurso  (IBs),  and  Wick  (13s.);  once 
weekly  to  Amsterdam  (21.),  Bergen  (4/.  75.  6c?.).  Bremerhuren  (21.  10s), 
Christiansand  (4/.  13s.),  Copenhagen  (31.  3s.),  Steitin,  Sunilerlund  (is.),  and 
Hull  (10s.);  etc.  Also  excursion-steamers  in  summer  to  North  Berwick,  the 
Bass  Rock,  the  Isle  of  May,  Elie,  etc.  —  From  Granton.  To  London,  see 
p.  471;  to  Burntisland  (comp.  p.  507)  several  times  a  day;  Copenhagen  (21.), 
the  Faroe  Isles  (3/.,  return  5/.)  and  Iceland  (5/.,  return  8/.)  once  a  month. 

United  States  Consul,  R.  ./.  MacBride,  E^u  ,  8  York  Buildings. 

Principal  Attractions.  Princes  Street;  Scott  Monumen';  Castle;  Lawn- 
market,  High  St.,  and  Canongote;  Holyrood;  National  Gallery;  Gallon  Hill 
(view);  St.  Giles's;  St.  Mary's  Episcopal  Cathedral;  Museum  of  Science  d-  Art; 
the  Queen's  Drive.  These  points  may  all  be  visited  in  one  long  day  (9-10  hrs.), 
but  those  who  wish  to  see  Edinburgh  to  advantage  must  devote  at  least 
2-3  days  to  the  town  itself  and  4-5  davs  to  its  environs. 


476     Route  65.  EDINBURGH.  History. 

Edinburgh,  the  capital  of  Scotland,  and  one  of  the  most  roman- 
tically heautiful  cities  in  Europe,  is  finely  situated  on  a  series  of 
ridges,  separated  by  ravines,  about  2  M,  to  the  S.  of  the  Firlh  of 
Forth  (5-6  M.  wide),  of  which  charming  views  are  obtained  from  the 
higher  parts  of  the  town.  Perhaps  no  fairer  or  more  harmonious 
combination  of  art  and  nature  is  to  be  found  among  the  cities  of 
the  world,  and  even  the  buildings  of  little  or  no  beauty  in  them- 
selves generally  blend  happily  with  the  surrounding  scenery.  The 
population,  excluding  Leith,  is  about  261,000.  Edinburgh  is  the 
seat  of  the  administrative  and  judicial  authorities  of  Scotland,  and 
is  renowned  for  its  excellent  university  and  schools.  It  is  also  a 
great  centre  of  the  printing,  publishing,  bookselling,  brewing,  and 
distilling  trades,  but  has  few  important  manufactures.  The  stranger 
is  advised  to  begin  his  acquaintance  with  the  'Modern  Athens'  by 
obtaining  a  general  view  of  it  from  the  Castle  (best),  the  top  of 
the  Scott  Monument,  the  Calton  Hill,  or  Arthur's  Seat  (p.  480). 

History.  The  authentic  history  of  Edinburgh  begins  about  617,  when 
Edwin,  King  of  Northumbria,  established  a  fortress  on  the  castle-rock, 
round  which  sprang  up  the  settlement  of  'Edwin's  Burgh'.  In  the  10th 
cent,  the  town  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Scots  (Celts),  whose  name 
for  it,  'Dunedin'  (i.e.,  hill  of  Edwin),  did  not  permanently  dispossess  the 
Saxon  form.  The  early  history  of  the  town  is  practically  the  history  of 
the  castle,  which  was  a  frequent  object  of  contention  between  the  Scots 
and  the  English;  and  it  was  not  till  1437  that  Edinburgh  became  the  cap- 
ital of  Scotland  in  place  of  Perth.  The  city  then  increased  steadily  in 
size  and  importance,  but  the  work  of  ages  was  undone  by  its  capture  and 
destruction  by  the  English  in  1544,  when  the  castle,  however,  made  a 
successful  resistance.  The  subsequent  history  of  Edinburgh  would  be 
almost  tantamount  to  a  history  of  Scotland,  but  among  the  salient  points 
may  be  named  the  scenes  accompanying  the  struggle  between  Queen  Mary 
and  the  Reformers  (1555  et  seq.);  the  defence  of  the  castle  by  Kirkaldy  of 
Grange  and  its  capture  by  the  English  in  1573  •,  the  capture  of  the  castle 
by  Cromwell  in  1650;  tlie  persecution  of  the  Covenanters  after  the  Re- 
storation (1660);  the  removal  of  the  Scottish  Parliament  to  London  in  1707; 
the  Porteous  Riot  in  1736;  and  the  occupation  of  the  city  by  Prince  Charles 
Edward  in  1745. 

At  the  close  of  last  and  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  Edin- 
Ijurgh  was  the  residence  of  a  literary  circle  of  great  brilliancy,  some  idea 
of  which  mav  be  obtained  from  the  mention  oi  David  Hume  (d.'l776),  Adam 
Smith  (d.  1790),  Robertson,  the  historian  (d.  1793),  Plavfair  (d.  1819),  Henry 
Maclenzie  (d.  1831),  Robert  Burns  (d.  1796),  Dugald  Stewart  (d.  1828),  Scott, 
Wilson,  Lockhart,  Brougham,  Jeffrey,  Cockburn,  and  Chalmers.  The  'Edinburgh 
Review''  was  established  by  Jeffrey,  Sydney  Smith,  and  others  in  1802. 

Edinburgh  consists  of  the  picturesque  Old  Town,  familiar  to 
all  readers  of  Walter  Scott,  which  was  rebuilt  in  the  middle  of  the 
16th  cent,  after  a  great  fire,  and  of  the  New  Town,  to  the  N., 
which  dates  its  beginnings  from  1768.  The  former,  once  the  seat 
of  the  fashionable  world,  but  now  resigned  to  the  poorer  classes,  is 
full  of  interesting  old  houses,  some  of  which  are  remarkable  for 
their  immense  height  (10-12  stories).  The  nucleus  of  the  New 
Town,  which  is  distinguished  for  its  massive  style  of  building, 
consists  of  the  three  parallel  thoroughfares:  *Princes  Street  (PI. 
C,  D,  4,  E,  3),  perhaps  the  finest  street  in  Europe  (with  pleasant 
Gardens,  open  to  the  public);    George  Street  (PI.  C,  D,  3);   and 


Castle.  EDINBURGH.  65.  Route.    477 

Queen  Street  (PL  C,  D,  3).  —  Numerous  modern  suburbs  have  also 
sprung  up,  particularly  to  the  S.  of  the  Old  Town. 

In  East  Princes  Street  Gardens,  near  the  Waverley  Station, 
rises  the  magnificent  *Scott  Monument  (PI.  E,  3),  erected  in  1840 
from  the  design  of  Kemp,  and  enclosing  a  marble  statue  of  Scott 
(d.  1832)  by  Steell.  Fine  view  from  the  top  (adm.  2(1.').  To  the  E. 
of  the  Scott  Monument  is  a  statue  of  Living.Hone  (d.  1873),  the 
African  traveller;  to  the  W.  are  statues  of  Adam  Black,  a  pro- 
minent citizen  ,  and  Jo/in  W?ison  ('Christopher  North';  d.  1854). 
Between  the  East  and  West  Princes  Street  Gardens  rises  the  Mound 
(PI.  D,  4),  a  huge  embankment  connecting  the  New  Town  with 
the  Old,  at  the  foot  of  which  stand  two  handsome  buildings  in  a 
classical  style:  the  Royal  Institution  (PI.  D,  4)  and  the  National 
Gallery  (PI.  D,  4).  The  former  contains  a  Statue  Gallery,  with  a 
collection  of  casts  (Thurs.  &  Frid.,  10-4,  6d. ;  other  days,  free).  The 
National  Gallery  (Mon.,  Tues.,  &  Wed.,  10-5,  and  Sat.,  10-5  and 
7-9,  free ;  Thurs.  and  Frid.,  10-5,  6d.)  contains  a  good  collection  of 
paintings  of  the  Italian,  Spanish,  and  British  Schools,  some  wax 
models  by  Michael  Angela,  fine  examples  of  Gainsborough  and  Rem^ 
brandt,  and  water-colours  by  Williams  and  others  (catalogue  6d.). 
The  annual  Exhibition  of  the  Scottish  Academy  is  held  here  in  spring 
(15th  Feb.  to  15th  May;  adm.  Is.).  —  At  the  corner  of  West  Princes 
Street  Gardens  next  the  Mound  is  a  statue  of  the  Scottish  poet 
Allan  Ramsay  (d.  1758),  whose  house  is  now  incorporated  with  the 
new  'University  Hal]'  buildings  on  the  Castle  Hill,  in  a  direct  line 
with  the  statue  and  overlooking  the  gardens. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  valley  occupied  by  the  West  Princes  Street 
Gardens  rises  the  *Castle  (PI.  D,  4;  430ft.),  the  ancient  seat  of 
the  Scottish  kings,  grandly  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  bold  rock, 
sloping  gradually  to  Holyrood  on  the  E.  but  descending  almost 
perpendicularly  on  the  other  three  sides.  From  Princes  St.  we 
ascend  the  Mound  (to  the  left  the  Bank  of  Scotland ,  p.  478)  and 
follow  the  first  street  to  the  right,  between  the  Free  Church  College 
and  Princes  Street  Gardens.  At  the  top  of  the  steep  hill  we  again 
turn  to  the. right  and  cross  the  Esplanade  to  the  castle-gate  (adm. 
free;  interior  10-4  or  11-3). 

We  enter  by  a  drawbridge,  crossing  the  old  moat  and  passing  under 
a  portcullis,  and  follow  the  main  road  to  the  highest  part  of  the  enclo- 
sure, where  stand  the  Crown  Room.,  containing  the  Scottish  Regalia;  Queen 
Mary''s  Room,  in  which  James  I.  of  England  was  born  in  1566;  the  Old 
Parliament  Hall  (recently  restored),  with  a  masiiim  imd  armoury;  and 
Si.  Margaret  s  Chapel,  the  oldest  building  in  Edinburgh  (ca.  1100).  In  front 
of  the  chapel  is  ''Mons  Meg\  a  huge  cannon,  resembling  the  'Dulle  Griethe' 
at  Ghent,  formerly  believed  to  have  been  cast  at  Mons  in  Belgium,  but 
now  ascribed  to  native  skill  (1455).  The  other  buildings,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Argyll  Tower,  once  a  state-prison,  are  not  shown.  A  magni- 
licent  *View  of  the  city  and  the  Firth  of  Forth,  with  the  Highland  hills 
in  the  background,  is  obtained  from  the  Bomb  Battery  and  other  points. 
A  time-gun  is  fired  daily  from  the  Half-Moon  Battery,  at  1  p.m.,  by  elec- 
trical communication  with  the  Observatory  on  Calton  Hill.  —  History, 
see  p.  476. 


478     Route  65.  EDINBURGH.  St.  Giles's  Church. 

We  now  follow  the  series  of  quaint  old  streets  (Castle  Hill, 
Lauwmarket,  High  Street,  and  Canongate),  which  descend  in  a 
straight  line  from  the  Castle  to  (I74  M.)  Holyrood  and  give  some 
idea  of  Old  Edinburgh ,  though  many  of  the  most  picturesque 
houses  have  lately  been  removed.  The  visitor  should  inspect  one 
of  the  characteristic,  narrow  closes,  or  wynds,  which  diverge  on 
either  side  (especially  on  the  N.).  To  the  right,  at  the  end  of  the 
Esplanade,  stands  the  Assembly  Hall  (PI.  D,  4),  where  the  General 
Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  takes  place  in  May.  The  Free 
Church  Assembly  Hall  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  Bank 
Street,  to  the  left,  descends  past  the  Bank  of  Scotland  (PI.  E,  4), 
a  handsome  Renaissance  building,  to  Princes  St.  To  the  right  is  Mel- 
bourne Place^  containing  the  Sheriff  Court  Buildings,  and  continued 
by  George  IV.  Bridge,  spanning  the  Cowgate  (p.  481)  and  leading 
to  the  S.  quarters.  In  George  IV.  Bridge  is  the  chief  entrance  to  the 
new  Free  Library  (100,000  vols.),  which  rises  from  the  Cowgate. 

A  little  farther  on  rises  *St.  Giles's  Church  (PI.  E,  4),  the  ex- 
terior of  which  has  suffered  from  an  unskilful  restoration  in  1829, 
while  the  interior  is  now  of  great  interest.  The  chief  feature  of 
the  exterior  is  the  Lantern  Tower  (160  ft.  ;  14th  cent.),  an  imi- 
tation of  that  of  St.  Nicholas  at  Newcastle  (p.  42'2). 

St.  Giles's,  tlie  oldest  parish-church  in  Edinburgh,  now  usually  styled 
'CathedraF,  was  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  on  the  site  of  a  much  earlier 
edifice.  In  1385,  however,  the  greater  part  of  it  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
and  the  present  Gothic  church  was  built  in  1385-1460.  At  the  Reformation 
the  interior  of  the  church  was  defaced  and  robbed  of  its  artistic  adorn- 
ments; after  which  it  was  divided  by  partitions  into  four  separate 
churches.  In  this  condition  it  remained  until  1871-83,  when,  at  the  instance 
and  mainly  at  the  cost  of  Dr.  William  Chambers  (d.  1883),  the  well-known 
publisher,  the  interior  was  carefully  restored  to  its  original  appearance. 

The  Interior  (open,  10-3,  adm.  3d.;  on  Mon.,  free),  196  ft.  in  length, 
presents  an  imposing  though  somewhat  cold  and  bare  appearance.  '  The 
characteristic  Scottish  barrel-vaulting  should  be  noticed.  The  stained-glass 
windows  are  modern.  On  entering  by  the  handsome  new  W.  Doorway., 
we  see  to  the  left,  enclosed  by  an  iron  screen,  the  Albany  Aisle,  erected 
by  the  Duke  of  Albany,  son  of  Robertll.,  in  iW-l,  in  expiation  of  the  mur- 
der of  his  nephew,  the  Duke  of  Rothesay.  This  chapel  and  the  adjoining 
Chapel  of  St.  Eloi  have  modern  mosaic  floors.  Opposite,  to  the  S.,  is  the 
Moray  Aisle,  containing  a  handsome  altar  and  a  modern  monument  to  the 
Regent  Moray  (assassinated  in  1570;  p.  485);  the  metal  plate  is  from  the 
original  tomb.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  font,  after  Thorvald- 
sen.  From  the  pillars  of  the  nave  hang  the  old  flags  of  Scottish  regi- 
ments. —  The  Transept,  the  oldest  part  of  the  church,  contains  four  massive 
Iforman  piers,  which  support  the  tower,  and  may  perhaps  date  from  the 
original  edifice  of  1120.  —  The  Chancel  contains  a  tasteful  modern  pulpit 
and  the  royal  pew  (in  carved  oak).  The  last  pillar  to  the  left,  with  the 
arms  of  James  II.  and  his  wife,  Mary  of  Cleves,  is  called  the  'King's  PiUav\ 
In  the  small  adjoining  chapel  lies  Walter  Chepman  (d.  1532),  the  first  Scottish 
printer.  The  Preston  Aisle,  to  the  S.  of  the  choir,  is  a  good  specimen  of  the 
Perp.  style  (15th  cent.).  The  Crypt,  below  the  S.  transept,  contains  the  re- 
mains of  the  Marquis  of  Montrose  (d.  1661)  and  the  Regent  Moray  (see  above). 

When  Charles  I.  attempted  to  re-establish  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church, 
St.  Giles's  was  made  the  cathedral  of  the  bishopric  of  Edinburgh  (1634), 
and  it  was  here  that  Jenny  Geddes  threw  her  stool  at  Dean  Hanna.  Both 
the  dean  and  his  assailant  are  commemorated  by  brass  tablets  in  the 
church.  [The  stool  is  preserved  in  the  I^ational  Museum  of  Antiquities,  p.  483  ] 


Parliament  House.         EDINBURGH.  65.  Route.     479 

The  Solemn  League  and  Covenant  waa  signed  here  in  1643.  John  Knox  often 
preached  in  St.  Giles's.  —  The  small  shops  or  booths,  which  were  erected 
between  the  buttresses  about  1560,  were  called  Kraimes,  and  the  wares 
sold  in  them  Kraimery  (comp.  German  Kramerei). 

Outside  the  church,  to  the  N.E.,  is  the  shaft  of  the  old  City 
Cross  ^  restored  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Gladstone  in  1885,  and 
mounted  on  a  new  pedestal.  —  To  the  N.W.  is  a  figure  of  a  heart 
in  the  pavement,  marking  the  site  of  the  Old  Tolhooth,  or  city 
prison,  known  as  the  'Heart  of  Midlothian'.  Close  by  is  a  Statue  of 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  (d.  1884). 

To  the  S.  of  St.  Giles's  is  Parliament  Square,  an  open  space, 
formerly  the  churchyard,  with  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Charles  II. 
Adjacent  is  a  stone  inscribed  'I.  K.  1572",  supposed  to  mark  the 
grave  of  .Tohn  Knox.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  square  (entr.  in  the  W. 
corner)  stands  the  extensive  Parliament  House  (Pl.E,  4),  formerly 
the  place  of  meeting  of  the  Scottish  Parliament,  and  now  the  seat 
of  the  Supreme  Law  Courts  of  Scotland  (open  daily,  10-4). 

We  first  enter  the  *Great  Hall,  where  numerous  'Advocates'  in  wig 
and  gown,  'Writers  to  the  Signet',  and  solicitors  may  be  seen  in  conference 
with  their  clients.  The  hall,  which  has  a  fine  oaken  roof,  contains  statues 
and  paintings  of  celebrated  Scottish  jurists  and  statesmen.  The  large 
*  Stained  Glass  Windoiv ,  executed  at  Munich  from  a  design  by  Kaulbach, 
represents  the  foundation  of  the  College  of  Justice  by  James  V.  in  1537. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Hall  is  a  Corridor,  extending  300  ft.  towards 
the  E.,  from  which  the  different  Courts  are  entered.  The  door  opposite 
the  entrance  to  the  hall  leads  to  a  staircase  descending  to  the  Advocates' 
Library,  the  largest  library  in  Scotland,  containing  upwards  of  300,000  vols., 
numerous  valuable  MSS.,'  a  sitting  figure  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  MS.  of 
'Waverley',  a  copy  of  the  first  printed  Bible  (Fust  and  Gutenberg),  the 
Confession  of  Faith  signed  by  James  VL  in  1590,  etc.  (keeper,  Mr.  James 
Clark;  10-4,  Sat.  10-1).  On  the  upper  floor,  in  the  N.W.  angle,  is  the 
Signet  Library  (adm.  by  order  from  a  member),  with  65,000  vols.,  belong- 
ing to  the  'Writers  to  the  Signet'  (i.e.  solicitors,  originally  clerks  of  the 
Secretary   of  State,   who   prepared  writs  passing  under  the  King's  signet). 

The  Supreme  Court  of  Scotland  consists  of  two  Courts  of  Appeal, 
each  with  3-4  judges,  forming  the  'Inner  House',  and  five  Courts  ot  first 
instance,  with  one  judge  each,  forming  the  'Outer  House'.  There  are  in 
all  13  judges,  at  the  head  of  whom  are  the  Lord  President  and  the  Lord 
Justice  Clerk,  presiding  over  the  First  and  Second  Divisions  respectively 
of  the  Inner  House.  The  Civil  Courts  sit  daily,  104,  except  Mon.  •,  the  Crim- 
inal Court  for  serious  offences  on  Mon.  only.  The  legal  vacations  last 
from  20th  Mar.  to  12th  May,  from  20th  July  to  15th  Oct.,  and  for  about  a 
fortnight  at  Christmas. 

In  the  High  St.,  at  the  corner  of  the  busy  South  Bridge  Street, 
rises  the  Tron  Church  (PI.  E,  4),  so  called  from  the  old  'Tron',  or 
town  weighing-machine.  A  little  farther  on,  beyond  the  street 
known  as  the  'bridges'  (p.  481),  to  the  left,  is  John  Knox's  House 
(PI.  F,  4),  where  the  famous  preacher  lived  from  1560  to  1572,  re- 
cognisable by  its  projecting  front  (daily,  10-4,  adm.  6'/.).  — We  now 
enter  the  Canonyate,  passing  Moray  House  (now  a  traitiing-college  ; 
PI.  F,  4)  on  the  right,  and  the  Canonyate  Tolbooth  (comp.  above; 
1591),  with  its  clock,  on  the  left.  In  the  churchyard  of  Canongate 
Church  (PI.  F,  4)  lie  Adam  Smith  (d.  1790),  Dwiald  Steirart  (d. 
1828),  and  Robert  Fergusson  (d.  1790;  headstone  erected  by  Burns). 


480     Route  65.  EDINBURGH.  Arthurs  Seat. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Canongate  lies  *Holyrood  Palace  (PI.  G,  3}, 

the  former  residence  of  the  Scottish  kings,  dating  in  its  present 
form  mainly  from  1670-79  (open  11-6,  in  winter  11-4;  adm.  6d., 
free  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Sat.}. 

The  rooms  of  Mary^  Queen  of  Scots,  are  still  preserved,  and  contaii^ 
some  relics  of  tliat  ill-fated  princess.  In  the  vestibule  of  the  audience- 
chamber  a  stain  on  the  tloor  \ised  to  be  pointed  oiit  as  the  blood  of  Riz- 
zio.  The  Picture  Gallery  consists  of  a  long  series  of  imaginary  portraits 
of  Scottish  kings,  remarkable  for  their  strong  family-likeness. 

The  palace  occupies  the  site  of  Holyrood  Abbey,  founded  in  1128  by 
David  I.  on  the  spot  where  he  was  saved  from  an  infuriated  stag  by 
the  interposition  of  a  miraculous  cross.  The  only  relics  of  this  edifice 
consist  of  the  E.E.  ruined  church,  now  called  ''Holyrood  Chapel.  The  abbey- 
precincts  were  formerly  an  inviolable  sanctuary  for  criminals,  and  its 
privileges  were  maintained  in  the  case  of  debtors  down  to  the  abolition 
of  imprisonment  for  debt  in  1880. 

To  the  S.E.  of  Holyrood  Palace  extends  the  treeless  Queen's 
Park  (PI.  H,  3,  etc.),  at  the  foot  of  Arthur's  Seat  (822  ft. ;  PI.  H,  5), 
which  may  be  ascended  thence  in  ^4-1  hr.  The  path  passes  the 
ruins  of  St.  Antovy^s  Chapel  (PI.  H,  4).  In  fine  weather  the  top 
commands  an  admirable  survey  of  the  city,  the  Firth,  the  Highland 
Mts.  to  the  N.W.,  and  the  Pentland  Hills  to  the  S.W. 

A  pleasant  road,  named  the  "Queen's  Drive,  encircles  Arthur's  Seat 
(3  M.),  affording  a  series  of  changing  views.  Proceeding  to  the  E.  from 
Holyrood,  we  pass  in  succession  (Vz  M.)  St.  Margarefs  Loch,  with  St.  An- 
tonyms Chapel  (see  above)  above  it,  and  (IV4  M.)  Dunsappie  Loch.  A  little 
beyond  the  latter  we  have  a  'View  to  the  left,  below  us,  of  Duddingston 
and  Duddingston  Loch;  to  the  E.  are  the  sea,  the  Bass  Rock  (p.  469),  and 
the  conical  North  Berwick  Laio  (p.  469);  to  the  S.  the  Pentland  Bills  (p.  484). 

The  Salisbury  Crags  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  the  curious  detached  ridge  on  the 
W.  side  of  Arthur's  Seat,  afford  a  good  view  of  Edinburgh.  Near  their 
base  lies  Dumbiedykes  (PI.  F,  5),  the  home  of  .Jeanie  Deans. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Holyrood  we  may  leave  the  Queen's  Park  by 
the:  S.  gate,  1  M.  beyond  Duddingirton,  and  proceed  to  (V2  M.)  the  suburb 
of  Newington  (beyond  PI.  F,  G,  6),  whence  we  may  return  to  Princes  St. 
by  tramway,  by  the  suburban  railway  (p.  474),  or  on  foot  through  the 
Meadows  (p.  48i)  and  across  George  IV.  Bridge  (p.  478).  Those  who  take 
the  train  may  alight  at  Blackford  Hill  (p.  484). 

Proceeding  to  the  E.  from  the  Scott  Monument  (comp.  p.  477), 
we  pass  on  the  right,  below  the  level  of  the  street,  the  large  Wav- 
erley  Market  (PI.  E,  3),  the  roof  of  which  forms  a  promenade.  At 
(3  min.)  the  E.  end  of  Princes  St.  is  the  Register  House  (PI.  E,  3), 
containing  the  Scottish  archives.  In  front  of  it  is  a  Statue  of  Wel- 
lington, by  Steell  (1852;  'the  Iron  Duke,  in  bronze,  by  Steell'). 
Opposite  stands  the  Post  Office,  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice, 
completed  in  1865.  Waterloo  Place,  with  a  viaduct  crossing  the 
street  below,  leads  hence  to  tlie  E.,  past  the  Old  Calton  Burial 
Ground  (with  the  Martyrs'  Monument,  a  memorial  of  the  Scots  who 
fell  in  the  American  Civil  War,  the  tomb  of  David  Hume,  d.  1776, 
and  the  Abraham  Lincoln  Monument,  etc.),  to  (4  min.)  the  handsome 
castellated  Prison  (PI.  F,  3).  The  steps  opposite  ascend  to  the 
Calton  Hill  (355  ft.  ;  PI.  E,  3). 

To  the  left,  at  the  top  of  the  steps,  is  a  monument  to  the  philosopher 
Dugald  Stewart  (d.  1828).    On  the  summit  of  the  hill  rises  the  Nelson  Monu- 


University.  EDINBURGH.  65.  Route.     4S1 

f/ient  (102  ft.;  adm.  Sd.\  *View  from  the  top);  a  ball  falls  here  at  1  p.m., 
when  the  time-gun  is  fired  from  the  castle.  Adjoining  this  tower  is  the  un- 
finished National  Monument,  erected  to  commemorate  the  Battle  of  Waterloo. 

At  the  S.E.  base  of  the  Caltoii  Hill,  near  the  Priaon,  is  the 
High  School  (PI.  F,  3),  a  handsome  building  in  a  Grecian  style. 
[Opposite  is  a  footpath  descending  direct  to  Holyrood.  1  Farther  on, 
to  the  right,  are  Burns's  Monument  [adm.  2d.),  with  a  statue  of  the 
poet  (d.  1796),  and  the  New  Calton  Burial  Ground  (PL  G,  3). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Register  House  (p.  480),  the  North  Bridge  (PI. 
E,  3,  4),  300  yds.  long  and  60  ft.  high,  crosses  the  hollow  between 
the  old  and  new  towns,  now  occupied  by  the  railway ;  the  view  of 
the  city  from  the  bridge  at  night,  after  the  lamps  are  lit,  is  very 
striking.  The  North  Bridge  ends  at  the  High  St.  (comp.  p.  480), 
beyond  which  it  is  continued  by  the  South  Bridge  (PI.  E,  4),  crossing 
the  quaint  but  uninviting  Cowgate,  one  of  the  oldest  streets  in  the 
town.  To  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  is  the  University  (PI.  E,  5), 
a  building  dating  from  1789-1827,  with  a  dome  added  in  1887. 

The  University  of  Edinburgh  was  founded  by  James  VI.  in  15S2,  and  in 
1896  it  numbered  41  professors,  30  lecturers,  and  26  examiners,  besides  up- 
wards of  50  assistants,  and  2900  students.  The  medical  faculty  (ca.  160J  stud- 
ents) has  long  been  renowned,  and  a  handsome  new  'Medical  School  (PI. 
E,  5),  in  a  striking  Renaissance  style,  was  opened  in  1884.  a  little  to  the 
W.  The  University  Library  (o'pen  i-dily  1.0-!i,  in  summer  10-3;  adm.  6(f.,  for 
a  party  Is.)  contains  150,000  volumes.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  Medical  School 
are  the  Music  Class  Room,  the  Students'  Union,  and  the  McEican  Hall 
(for  graduation  ceremonials,  etc.). 

Behind  the  University,  entered  from  Chambers  St.,  is  the  large  'Mu- 
seum of  Science  and  Art  (PI.  E,  5),  founded  in  1861,  and  containing  valu- 
able and  extensive  collections  of  natural  history,  industrial  art,  and  tech- 
nologv  (open  on  Mon.,  Tues.,  &  Thurs.,  10-4,  6d.;  ^Yed.  104,  and  Frid. 
&  Sat,  10-4  &  6-10,  free).  —  Opposite  the  Museum  is  \lSie  Heriot-Watt  Col- 
lege. —  Chambers  St.  occupies  the  site  of  the  College  Wynd,  in  which 
Sir  Walter  Scott  was  born  in  1771  (tablet  on  No.  8). 

Lothian  Street,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  University,  leads  west- 
ward to  the  University  New  Buildings  in  Teviot  Row,  and  to 
Lauriston  Place  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  with  the  magnificent  new  Infirmary 
(PI.  E,  5),  consisting  of  several  detached  buildings  in  the  Scottish 
baronial  style.  It  cost  350-400, OOOi.,  and  accommodates  nearly 
8000  patients  yearly.  To  the  right  is  *Heriot's  Hospital  (PI.  D,  E,  5), 
founded  for  the  maintenance  and  education  of  fatherless  boys  by 
George  Heriot  (d.  1624),  goldsmith  and  banker  to  James  VI.  (see 
'Fortunes  of  Nigel').  The  handsome  building,  long  attributed  to 
Inigo  Jones,  was  designed  by  Wm.  Aytoun  (adm.  12-3,  daily,  ex- 
cept Sat.  &  Sun.  ;  tickets  from  the  Treasurer,  20  York  Place). 

Among  other  similar  schools  are  Gillespie's  Institution  (PI.  C,  6), 
Gilmore  Place;  Stewards  College,  Queensferry  Road  (I'l.  A,  3);  Donaldsons 
Hospital  (p.  482);  and  the  Merchant  Company's  Schools  for  hoys  and  girls. 

The  Meadow  Walk  (PI.  E,  5,  6)  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  Mbadows 
(PI.  D,E,6),  an  extensive  recreation-ground,  adjoined  on  the  S.W.  by 
Bruntsfield  Links,  another  public  park.  — At  No.  26  George  Square 
(PI.  E,  5,  6)  took  place  the  only  interview  between  Scott  and  Burns. 

We  may  now  return  to  High  St.  and  Princes  St.  by  George  IV. 

Baedekek's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  31 


482     Route  65.  EDINBURGH.     St.  Mary's  CathedraL 

Bridge  (p.  478),  at  the  beginning  of  which,  to  the  left,  is  old  Grey- 
friars'  Church  (PI.  E,  5),  in  the  graveyard  of  which  the  'Solemn 
League  and  Covenant'  was  signed  in  1638. 

Among  the  tombs  in  the  churchyard  are  those  of  George  Buchanan 
(d.  1582),  Oeoi-ge  Hei'iot  (d.  1624),  Sir  George  Mackenzie  (d.  1691;  the  'blnidy 
Mackenzie'  of  the  Covenanters),  Allan  Ramsay  (d.  1758),  &-a.^  Robertson 
Cd.  1793),  the  historian  of  Charles  V.  The  1200  prisoners  taken  at  the  Battle  of 
Bothwell  Brig  (1679;  p.  480)  were  confined  here,  and  suffered  great  privations. 

On  regaining  Princes  St.,  we  turn  to  the  left  to  visit  the  W. 
part  of  the  town.  Among  the  handsome  huildings  to  the  right  are 
several  hotels  and  cluh-houses.  To  the  left,  in  West  Princes  Street 
Gardens  (PI.  C,  D,4;  hand  twice  a  week  in  summer),  which  occupy 
the  place  of  the  old  Nor'  Loch,  is  a  sitting  figure  of  Sir  James 
Y.  Simpson  (d.  1870),  the  discoverer  of  the  properties  of  chloro- 
form. At  the  end  of  the  street,  on  the  same  side,  is  St.  John^s 
Episcopal  Church  (PI.  C,  4),  adjoining  which  is  an  lona  cross  to  the 
memory  of  Dean  Ramsay  (d.  1876).  In  the  hollow  behind  St.  John's 
is  St.  Cuthbert's  or  the  West  Church  (PI.  C,  4;  rebuilt  1892-94), 
the  graveyard  of  which  contains  the  last  resting-place  of  Thomas 
Be  Quincey  (d.  1859).  —  Opposite  St.  John's  is  the  handsome  new 
Princes  St.  Station  of  the  Caledonian  Ry.  Co.  (p.  474). 

From  this  point  Queensferry  Street  leads  to  the  right  to  (6  min.) 
the  *Dean  Bridge  (PI.  B,  3  ;  105ft.  high),  which  crosses  the  Water 
of  Leith  and  commands  a  fine  view.  Beyond  the  bridge  we  pass 
Trinity  Church  and  several  handsome  terraces  and  follow  the  Queens- 
ferry  Road,  which  soon  bends  to  the  left.  To  the  right  we  have  a 
fine  view  of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  with  the  imposing  pile  of  Fettes 
College,  a  high-class  school  for  boys,  in  the  foreground.  About 
300  yds.  farther  on,  a  lane  diverges  on  the  left  to  the  (3  min.)  N.E. 
entrance  of  the  *Dean  Cemetery  (PI.  A,  3),  containing  the  graves 
of  Jeffrey,  Cockburn,  Wilson,  Alison,  and  other  eminent  Scotsmen. 
Passing  through  the  cemetery,  we  leave  it  by  the  S.  gate,  beyond 
which  we  cross  the  bridge  to  the  left,  and  return  by  the  old  Queens- 
ferry  Road  to  (8  min.)  Queensferry  St.  (see  above). 

Melville  Street,  the  second  cross-street  on  the  right,  leads  from 
Queensferry  St.  to  (5  min.)  *St.  Mary's  Cathedral  (PI.  B,  4),  a  fine 
E.E.  edifice,  260  ft.  long,  generally  considered  the  master-piece 
of  Sir  G.  G.  Scott.  It  belongs  to  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church, 
and  was  erected  in  1874-79  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  110,000L  The 
^Interior  (services  at  11  and  5)  is  specially  imposing  and  challenges 
comparison  with  some  of  the  older  cathedrals.  The  Central  Spire 
(295  ft.  high)  seems  rather  large  in  proportion  to  the  rest  of  the 
building,  but  may  lose  this  appearance  when  the  W.  Towers  are 
erected.  The  church  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  fashionable  West 
End  District,  a  handsome  and  substantially-built  quarter. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  this  point  is  'Donaldson's  Hospital  (adm. 
on  Tues.  drFrid..  2-4),  erected  and  endowed  for  the  maintenance  and  edu- 
cation of  300  children,  one-third  of  whom  are  deaf  and  dumb,  bv  Alexander 
Donaldson  (d.  1830),  a  printer,  who  left  200,000Z.  for  this  purpose. 


Botanic  Garden.  EDINBURGH.  65.  Route.     483 

From  Queensferry  St.  (seep.  482)  a  passage  leads  to  theE.,  past 
the  somewhat  heavy  Church  of  St.  George  (PI.  C,  4),  into  Charlotte 
Square,  which  is  adorned  with  an  equestrian  *  Statue  of  Prince 
Albert  (d.  1861),  by  Steell.  From  Charlotte  Square  we  follow  (to 
the  E.)  the  wide  and  handsome  George  Street,  soon  crossing 
(3  min.)  Castle  Street  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  at  No.  39  in  which  (between 
George  St.  and  Queen  St.,  E.  side)  Sir  Walter  Scott  lived  from  1800 
to  1826.  At  the  intersection  of  the  streets  rises  a  statue  of  Thomas 
Chalmers  (d.  1847),  by  Steell.  Farther  on  in  George  St.  are  statues 
of  Pitt  and.  George  IV.  (by  Chantrey),  the  Union  and  Commercial 
Banks  and  the  Music  Hall  (on  the  right),  and  St.  Andreic's  Church 
(PI.  D,  3;  on  the  left).  The  street  ends  at  St.  Andrew's  Square 
(PI.  E,  3),  with  a  group  of  Alexander  and  Bucephalus  (by  Steell),  the 
Melville  Monument,  and  several  handsome  Banfcs,  whence  we  return 
through  St.  Andrew's  St.  to  Princes  St. 

At  the  E.  end  of  Queen  Street  (PI.  D,  3)  is  the  Scottish  Na- 
tional Portrait  Gallery,  opened  in  1888. 

The  gallery  (adm.  10-4;  Thurs.  &  Frid.  6d.,  other  days  free)  now  con- 
tains ahout  150  portraits,  a  collection  of  casts  from  the  antique,  a  statue 
o{  Robert  Burns  by  Flaxman,  engraved  prints  of  Scottish  historical  characters, 
and  P'rench  engravings  of  the  IT-l^^th  cent,  (from  the  beiue.-t  of  the  late 
Mr.  W,  F.  Wats  )nj,  and  a  series  of  drawings  of  Old  Edinlmrgh  hy  James 
Drummond.  —  The  building,  which  cost  50,000^.,  was  presented  by  .Air. 
John  R.  Findlay.  It  now  also  contains  the  National  Museum  of  Antiquities 
(adm.  10-4;  Thurs.  &  Frid.  6d. ;  closed  on  Mon. ;  other  dajs  free).  The 
museum  includes  good  prehistoric  collections,  and  also  numerous  historic 
relics,  including  John  Knox's  pulpit;  Jenny  Geddes's  stool  (p.  478),  the 
sea-chest  of  Alexander  Selkirk  (the  original  of 'Robinson  Crusoe''),  and  copies 
of  the  National  League  and  Covenant. 

In  Inverleith  Row,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  reached  from 
Princes  St.  via  Hanover  St.,  Duiidas  St.,andPittSt.  (cable-tramway), 
lies  the  (172^^0  *^<***^ic^^^d®^  (PL  C,  1 ;  open  daily,  incl.  Sun.), 
with  a  large  palm-house.  Adjacent  is  the  Arboretum  (PI.  B,  1),  Ad- 
mirable *View  of  Edinburgh.  Not  far  off  is  the  Warriston  Cemetery 
(beyond  PI.  D,  1) ,  where  Sir  James  Simpson  (p.  48'2)  is  buried. 
About  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  is  Fettes  College  (p.  48'2).  Between  Fettes 
College  and  the  Arboretum  lies  the  Inverleith  Park.  By  turning  to 
the  left  at  the  end  of  Inverleith  Row ,  and  then  to  the  right,  we 
reach  (I1/2  M.  from  the  Botanic  Garden)  Granton  (see  p.  484). 

Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Edinburgh  are  the  Grassmarket 
(PI.  D,  5),  the  scene  of  the  Porteous  Riots  in  1736;  the  Grange  Cemetery, 
to  the  S.,  with  the  graves  of  Dr.  Chalmers  (d.  1847),  Dr.  Guthrie  (d.  1873), 
and  Hugh  Miller  (d.  1856);  and  Merchiston  Castle^  to  the  S.W.,  the  birth- 
place of  Napier  (d.  1617),  the  inventor  of  logarithms,  now  a  boys'  school. 

About  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Edinburgh,  but  now  connected  with  it 
by  continuous  lines  of  street,  lies  its  harbour  Leith  (beyond  PI.  F, 
G,  1),  a  bustling  seaport  with  68,000  inhab.  and  extensive  Docks. 
Its  two  *Piers,  each  ^/^  M.  long,  afford  a  tine  view  of  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  enlivened  with  shipping  and  bounded  by  the  coast  of  Fife 
(ferry  between  the  pier-heads  id.).  The  Trinity  House,  erected 
in  1816  on  the  site  of  an  older  building,   contains  some  models  of 

31* 


484     Route  65.  GRANTON. 

ships,  a  large  *Painting,  hy  David  Scott,  of  Vasco  da  Gama  ronnding 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  an  old  portrait  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots.  —  Steamers  from  Leith,  see  p.  475. 

Ahout  11/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Leith  (tramway  via  Junction  Road) 
is  the  quaint  fishing- village  of  Newhaven  (^Peacock  Inn,  fish-dinner 
2s.  Bd.),  inhahited  by  a  fisher-folk  of  Scandinavian  origin,  who 
rarely  marry  out  of  their  own  circle  and  have  preserved  most  of  their 
ancient  customs.  The  costume  of  the  'fish-wives' Is  very  picturesque. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  Newhaven  is  Trinity,  a  colony  of  villas, 
with  a  Chain  Pier,  which  is  a  favourite  resort  of  swimmers  (adm. 
Id.,  towel  id.).  Trinity  is  contiguous  to  Granton,  a  modern  seaport, 
with  three  magnificent  Piers,  constructed  by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch 
at  a  cost  of  150,000i.  (fine  *View  from  the  E.  pier).  The  traffic 
here,  however,  is  very  inferior  to  that  of  Leith.  Steamers,  see 
p.  475.  A  pleasant  walk  may  he  taken  from  Granton  to  the  W.  by 
a  rough  road  skirting  the  coast;  at  the  (i^/2  M.)  point  where  the 
road  ceases  we  may  turn  to  the  left  and  return  to  (4M.)  Edinburgh. 
Leith,  Newhaven,  Trinity,  and  Granton  are  all  connected  with 
Edinburgh  by  railway,  tramway,  or  omnibus. 

Excursions  from  Edinburgh. 

i.  On  a  hill  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  suburb  of  Newington  (p.  480)  stand 

the  ruins  of   Craigmillar  Castle,   built    in  1437,    a   favourite    residence  of 

Mary,  Queen  of  Scots  (key  at  the  Craigmillar  Dairy:  small  fee).   The  castle 

is  most  easily  reached  from  Duddingston  Station  on  the  Suburban  Eailway. 

2.  About*  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Edinburgh  lies  Corstorphine  (station, 
p.  48i),  reached  by  the  street  passing  Haymarket  Stat.  (p.  474)  and  Donald- 
son's Hospital  (p.  481;  coach,  see  p.  475).  At  the  beginning  of  the  village  we 
may  turn  to  the  right  and  cross  'Corstorphine  Hill  (475  ft.;  views  of  the 
Forth  and  the  Highland  hills)  to  (2  M.)  the  Queensferry  Road  (p.  482), 
whence  we  return  via  the  (3  M.)  Dean  Bridge  (p.  482)  to  Edinburgh.  — 
Walkers  should  diverge  from  the  road,  to  the  right,  about  V*  ^^>  above 
Corstorphine,  and  follow  a  footpath  leading  to  (18  min.)  the  view-point 
""Rest  and  be  Thankful',  which  commands  a  charming  view  of  Edinburgh 
and  the  Firth.  We  then  descend  (views)  to  (8  min.)  a  carriage-road,  which 
we  follow  to  the  right  to  (2  M.)  the  W.  end  of  Princes  St.  (or,  a  pleasanter 
route,  we  follow  the  road  to  the  left  for  a  short  wav  and  then  turn  to  the 
right,  2V2  M.). 

3.  Blackford  Hill  (station  on  the  Suburban  Railway),  adjoining  the  city 
on  the  S.,  to  theW.  of  Newington,  is  now  a  public  park.  The  summit  (500  ft.), 
the  "View  from  which  is  described  in  a  well-known  passage  ot  'Marmion", 
is  occupied  by  the  conspicuous  Royal  National  Observatory.  (Comp.  p.  480.) 
The  Braid  Hills  (70'J  ft.),  a  little  farther  on.  are  also  public  and  have  a 
golf-course  (nearest  station,  Morningside  Road,  p.  474;  Hotel,  p.  475). 

4.  The  Pentland  Hills ,  which  extend  to  the  S.  W.  of  Edinburgh, 
afford  numerous  pleasant  rambles.  The  highest  summits  are  Scald  Law 
(1898  ft.)  and  Carnethy  (1890  ft.),  two  good  points  of  view  (see  Map).  The 
most  convenient  way  to  reach  the  Pentlands  is  to  take  the  train  (Cale- 
donian Stat.)  to  (3V2'M.)  CoUnton,  (6  M.)  Currie,  or  (71/2  M.)  Salerno  (comp. 
Map)  5  or  they  may  be  approached  on  foot  or  by  carriage  through  Morning- 
isde  (pp.  474,  475)  and  over  the  Braid  Hills  (see  above).  E.  L.  Stevenson 
(1850-94)  lived  for  some  time  at  Swanston. 

5.  From  Edinburgh  to  Hawthorxden  and  Eoslin  (1  day).  Train 
from  Waverley  Station  (p.  474)  to  (11  M.)  Hawthornden  in  V2  tr. — "'Haw- 
thornden  (open  daily  in  summer,  10-6;  adm.  Is.),  charmingly  situated  on 
the  bank  of  the  North  Esk,  was  the  home  of  the  poet  Drummond  (1585-1649), 


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QUEENSFERRY.  65.    Route.     485 

who  was  visited  here  by  Ben  Jonson  in  1618.  The  tree  under  which  they 
first  met  is  pointed  out.  From  the  house  we  walk  through  a  romantic 
wooded  glen  to  ('A  hr.)  lioslin  Castle  (adm.  6'i.),  the  ancient  seat  of 
the  St.  Clairs,  celebrated  in  Scott's  'Rosabelle',  an  outside  view  of  which 
may  suffice.  Close  by  is  'Roslin  Chapel  (adm.  is. ;  Sun.  only  at  the 
services  at  noon  and  6  p.m.),  founded  in  1446  as  the  choir  of  a  collegiate 
church  (which  was  never  finished),  and  remarkable  for  its  profuse  decor- 
ation, the  style  of  which  is  generally  believed  to  be  Spanish.  The  '•Pren- 
tice Pillar'  owes  its  name  to  a  legend  not  unknown  elsewhere.  Kear  the 
chapel  is  the  Royal  Hotel  (luncheon  25.  6d.-3s.).  —  We  may  now  return  to 
Edinburgh  by  coach  (7  M.  ;  fare  Is.),  generally  starting  about  3.30  or  4  p.m., 
or  by  train  from  Roslin  Station.  Those  who  prefer  to  make  the  round  in 
the  reverse  direction  may  leave  Edinburgh  by  the  coach  starting  fur  Ros- 
lin at  10  a.m.  The  railway  company  issues  circular  tickets  (fares  2s.  2d., 
Is.  9d.),  which  are  available  for  the  stations  at  Roslin.,  J/awthoj-nden, 
Rosslynlee.  Rosslin  Castle.,  and  Polton.  One  of  the  coaches  also  makes  a 
circular  tour  (2».  6d.). 

6.  Frosi  Edinburgh  to  Dalkeith  (6M.  :  coach  or  railway,  comp.  p.  468). 
The  small  town  of  Dalkeith  (6950  inhab.)  is  uninteresting.  To  the  N.  is 
'Dalkeith  Palace,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  ccmtaining  a  valu- 
able collection  of  portraits  and  other  paintings.  The  house  and  '  Park  Are. 
open  to  visitors  on  Wed.  &  Sat.  in  the  absence  of  the  family.  —  Newhattle 
Abbey  (p.  468)  is  1  M.  to  the  S. 

7.  From  Edinburgh  to  Queensferry,  G'/z  M.,  railway  from  Waver- 
ley  Station  (to  Dalmeny)  in  18-33  min.  (fares  1.?.  Id..,  d'^/^d.)  \  coach  (see 
p.  475;  fare  is.;  on  Sun.,  return  3s.).  —  South  QLueensfeTTj  ( Queensferry 
Arms).,  with  1100  inhab.,  the  starting-point  of  the  gigantic  Forth  Bridge 
(p.  507),  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  Margaret,  consort  of  Malcolm  Can- 
more  (see  p.  516).  —  About  2V2  M.  to  the  W.  is  Hopetoun  Hoxise.,  the  seat  of 
the  Earl  of  Hopetoun,  with  a  fine  park  ("Views),  open  to  the  public.  The 
village  of  Dalmeny.,  P/t  M.  to  the  E.  of  Queensferry,  possesses  an  ancient 
Norman  church.  It  is  adjoined  by  'Dalmeny  Park  (open),  belonging  to  the 
Earl  of  Rosebery,  with  Dalmeny  House  and  Rarnbougle  Castle.,  the  latter 
incorporating  ancient  remains  (station,  see  below). 

Among  other  points  easily  reached  fri.m  Edinburgh  in  one  day  are 
Melrose  and  Dryhurgh  (comp.  pp.466,  467):  Buvn'island ?l\iA.  Aberdour(-p.  50S) ; 
the  Trossachs  (see  R.  67);  North  Berwick  (p.  469):  Linlithgow  (p.  485);  Dun- 
fermline (p.  516) ;  Stirling  (p.  495);  Lanark  and  the  Falls  of  Clyde  (p.  490). 

66.    From  Edinburgh  to  Glasgow. 

a.  North  British  Railway. 

47  M.  Railway  from  Waverley  Station  in  1  hr.  10  min,  to  2  hrs.  (fares 
5s.  6c?.,  2s.  6(i. ;  return-fares  7s.  6(i.,  4s.,  Sat.  to  Mou.  returns,  single  fare). 

After  leaving  Haymarket  (p.  474]  the  train  passes  (372-^^-)  ^o*"- 
storphine  (p.  484)  and  (5  M.)  Gogar.  S'^I.Ratho^  the  junction  of  aline 
to  KirJ^liston  and  Dalmeny  {see  above).  —  12  M.  Winchburgh,  the 
junction  of  a  new  line  to  the  Forth  Bridge  for  the  traffic  to  and  from 
Glasgow  and  the  West  of  Scotland.  —  147-2  M.  Philipstou-n. 

171/2  M.  Linlithgow  (Star  ^'  Garter),  an  old  town  with  4150 
inhab.,  w^as  long  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Scottish  kings.  The 
*Palack  (adm.  10-5;  fee),  visible  from  the  railway  (to  the  right), 
dates  in  its  present  form  from  the  14-l~th  centuries.  Quoen  Mary 
was  born  here  in  1542,  and  the  Regent  Moray,  who  was  shot  in  the 
streets  of  the  town,  died  here  in  1570.  St.  MichaeVs  Church,  ad- 
joining the  Palace,  founded  by  David  1.  (12th  cent.),  is  a  large  edifice 
of  various  periods,  from  Norman  to  Perpendicular.  A  branch-line 
runs  hence  to  Borroustounness  (pron.  Bo'ness),  on  the  Forth. 


486     Route  66.  GLASGOW.  Hotels. 

22  M.  Polmont  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Stirling  (p.  495). 
—  251/2  M.  Falkirk  (Red  Lion)  ,  a  husy  town  of  17,300  inhab., 
with  iron-works  and  coal-pits.  ^Falkirk  Trysts^  are  large  cattle- 
fairs.  Wallace  was  defeated  hy  Edward  I.  at  the  battle  of  Falkirk 
in  1298,  and  Prince  Charles  Stuart  defeated  the  English  here  in 
1746. — 41  M.  Lenzie  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Coatbridge  (p.  471) 
and  to  Kirkintilloch  and  Aberfoyle  (comp.  p.  496).  Beyond  (45^/2  M.) 
Cowlairs  we  descend  a  steep  gradient  through  a  long  tunnel  and 
enter  the  (47  M.)  Queen  Street  Station  of  Glasgow  (see  below). 

b.  Caledonian  Railway. 

46  M,  Railway  in  1  hr.  5  min.  to  2  hrs.  (fares,  see  p.  485). 

This  line  passes  through  a  busy  iron-working  district,  the  lights 
of  which  are  imposing  at  night.  Among  the  chief  stations  are  : 
10  M.  Midcalder  (from  which  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  the  Highland 
hills  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day);  16  M.  West  Calder,  the  centre  of 
an  extensive  paraffin  oil  industry;  33  M.  Holytoxvn;  and  (38  M.) 
Uddingston  (p.  471),  where  we  join  the  line  from  Carstairs.  —  At 
(46  M.)  Glasgow  (see  below)  the  trains  stop  at  Eylinton  Street  or 
Bridge  Street  before  running  into  the  Central  Station. 

Glasgow.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  North  British  or  Queen  Street  Station 
CPl.  F,  3),  Dundas  St.,  for  trains  to  Edinburgh  and  tlie  Xorth,  London 
(via  York),  Helensburcih,  Loch  Lomond,  Hamilton,  etc.  —  2.  Caledonian 
Central  Station  (PI.  E,  4),  Gordon  Str.,  for  Edinburgh.  London  (via  Carstairs 
and  Carlisle),  Paislev,  Greenock,  Hamilton,  etc.  —  B.  St.  Enoch's  (PI.  F,  5), 
of  the  G.  &  S.  W.  R.*,  St.  Enoch's  Sq.,  for  Paisley,  Greenock,  Ayr,  Carlisle 
and  London  via  Dumfries,  etc.  —  4.  Buchanan  Street  (PI.  F,  2,  3j,  the  Cale- 
donian terminus  for  trains  to  Oban,  Perth,  and  the  N.  —  5,  6.  Bridge  Street 
(PI.  E,  5)  and  Eglinton  Street  (comp.  PI.  E,  6)  are  secondary  stations  for  the 
S.  trains  of  the  Caledonian  Railway.  —  7.  College  Street  (PI.  G,  4),  a  secon- 
dary N,  B.  station.  —  8.  Main  Street  (comp.  PI.  F,  6),  Gorbals,  for  trains 
running  S.  from  St.  Enoch's.  —  Underground  Railways,  see  p.  487. 

Hotels.  =  Central  (PI.  b;  E,  4),  at  the  Central  Station;  St.  Enoch's 
(PI.  a;  F,  5),  at  St.  Enoch's  Station;  two  large  railway  hotels,  R.  <fe  A. 
from  45.,  D.  is.  %d.  —  'INoeth  British  Station  (PI.  c;  F,  4),  George  Sq., 
;!djoining  the  N.  B.  R.  Terminus:  Windsor  (late  Maclean's;  PI.  i:  D,  3), 
■250  St.  Vincent  St.-,  Grand  Hotel  (PI.  k:  C,  D,  2),  Charins  Cross  (W. 
end):  R.  &  A.  at  these  4-55.,  D.  3-55.  —  Rotal  (PI,  d;  F,  4),  George  Sq.,  R. 
&  A.  45. :  Victoria,  15  West  George  St.  (PL  E,  3);  Alexandra  (PI.  1;  E,  3), 
Bath  (PI.  m;  E,3),  152  Bath  St.-,  Steel's  (PL  r;  F,  4),  5  Queen  St.:  Bridge 
Street  Station  (PL  q ;  E,5).  —  Temperance  Hotels:  Washington  j|^''aver- 
LET  (PI.  s;  E,8),  Sauchiehall  St.:  Cockburn  (PL  t;  E,  3),  141  Bath  St.;  R. 
at  these  I5.  %d.-1s.  6c?.,  A.  9d.-l5.,  I).  25.  6d. 

Restaurants.  -'Lang.^  73  Queen  St.:  "'Ferguson  d-  Forrester  (Prince  of 
Wales).  36  Buchanan  St.-,  Brown.^  83  St.  Vincent  St.;  Queens.,  70  Buchanan 
St.;  Forrester.^  7  Gordon  St.;  Watsan  <k  Blane.i'W'isX  GQorge  St.;  Rupprechi., 
183  Hope  St. :  Assafrep,  St.  Vincent  St.  and  171  Sauchiehall  St. ;  at  the 
Central  and.  St.  Enoch  Hotels ;    Panorama,    328  Sauchiehall    St.    (see  below). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  F,  4),  George  Sq.  Numerous  branch-offices. 

Theatres.  Theatre  Royal  (PL  E,  8),  Cowcaddens;  Royalty  (PL  E,  3), 
Empire  (PL  F,  3),  Sauchiehall  St.  (operettas  and  burlesques);  Grand  (PL 
E,  2),  Cowcaddens  (melodrama);  Princess's,  Main  St.,  Gorbals  (PL  F,  6).  — 
St.  Andrew's  Halls.,  Berkeley  St.  (classical  concerts  in  winter) :  Queens  Rooms, 
at  the  W.  end  of  Sauchiehall  St.  (concerts,  balls,  etc.).  —  Hengler's  Cirque, 
Bothwell  St.  —  Trafalgar  Panorama.  328  Sauchiehall  St.,  with  restaurant. 


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steamers.  GLASGOW.  66.  Route.    487 

Exhibitions.  An  Annual  Exhibition  of  Modern  Paintings  is  held  in  the 
Institute  of  Fine  Arts,  Sauchiehall  St.  —  Corporation  Gallerie.^,  see  p.  'i89. 

Cabs.  P>om  one  .station  to  another,  or  into  the  town,  li.  for  1-3  pers., 
112  lbs.  of  luy;gage  included ;  each  addit.  pers.  Gd.  —  By  time:  for  the  first 
V2  hr.  Is.  Qd. ;  each  1/4  hr.  addit.  6c?.  —  Tramways  traverse  most  of  the 
chief  streets  and  run  to  the  suburbs.  —  Omnibuses  also  are  nnmeruus. 

Underground  Railways.  The  Glasgow  District  Slbsv at  (cars  every 
4  min.;  fares,  all  round  2d.,  any  four  stations  Id.)  describes  a  wide  circle 
round  the  W.  part  of  the  city  from  St.  Enoch  Square.  Stations :  St.  Enochs 
Buchanan  St.,  Cowcaddens,  St.  George's  Cross.  Kelvinbridge,  Billhead.  Partick 
Cross.1  Merkland  St.,  Govan  Cross,  Copland  Bead.  Cessnock,  Kinning  Park, 
Shields  Road.  West  St. ,  and  Bridge  St.  —  The  Glasgow  City  <t  District 
Railway  runs  E.  and  W.  from  Queen  St.  Station,  affording  rapid  access 
to  the  Cathedral  (College  Stat.),  the  University  and  West  End  Park  (Charing 
Cross  Stat.),  and  the  We^t  End  suburb,s  (Hyndland  Stat.). 

Steamers  ply  from  Glasgow  to  all  parts  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland, 
and  indeed  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  [The  first  2  hrs.  of  the  river 
journey  may  be  avoided  by  proceeding  by  train  to  (Greenock  or  Gourock 
(comp.  p.  497;  ^/i-ihr.).  Those,  however,  who  wish  to  make  an  acquaint- 
ance with  the  port  of  Glasgow  and  its  long  series  of  sbip-building  yards, 
with  the  deafening  din  of  their  hammers,  should  sail  the  whole  way.]  From 
Greenock  to  Belfast  daily  in  8  hrs.  (12s,  Qd.);  to  Dublin  daily  in  18  hrs.  (15s.) : 
to  Fort  William  and  Inverness  daily  in  summer;  to  Liverpool  4-5  times 
weekly  in  15  hrs.  (12s.  6c?.),  etc.  Innumerable  river-steamers  ply  to  the 
watering-places  on  the  estuary  of  the  C/yde  and  its  ramifications  (p.  490). 

Harbour  Steamers  C-Cluthas') ,  aflording  an  excellent  view  of  the 
harbour  and  quays,  ply  between  Victoria  Bridge  and  Linthonse  every  1/4  hr. 
from  8  a.m.  to  8.12  p.m.,  on  Sat.  &  holidays  till  9.12  p.m.  {id.). 

Principal  Attractions:  Cathedral  (p.  488);  Broomielaw  (p.  488);  Walk 
through  Buchanan  St.  and  Ar gyle  St.  (p.  489);   University  (p.  489). 

Glasgow.,  the  commercial  and  industrial  capital  of  Scotland  and 
the  second  city  of  the  kingdom,  with  (1891)  about  800,000  inhah. 
(including  the  suburbs),  lies  on  the  Clyde,  on  the  site  of  an  episco- 
pal see  founded  by  St.  Mungo  in  560,  and  rivals  Liverpool  in  its 
shipping-trade  and  Manchester  in  its  manufactures. 

Among  the  numerous  industries  of  Glasgow  the  most  characteristic  and 
important  is  its  Iron  and  Steel  Ship  Building,  in  which  it  is  facile  prin- 
ceps  among  British  towns.  Two-thirds  of  all  Briti'^h  steamers  are  built  on 
the  Clyde,  or  at  least  provided  therewith  their  engines.  The  lirst  steam- 
engine  was  constructed  at  Glasgow  by  James  Watt,  a  native  of  the  town, 
in  1763;  and  the  first  steamer  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  was  placed  on 
the  Clyde  by  Henry  Bell  in  1812  and  plied  between  Glasgow  and  Green- 
ock. Among  the  chief  industrial  establishments  in  or  near  Glasgow 
are  the  St.  E0II0.V  Chemical  Works  (PI.  G,  2),  occupying  15  acres  of  ground, 
with  a  chimney  435  ft.  hiiih  (over-topped,  however,  by  a  neighbouring 
chimney  of  455  ft.,  which  is  probably  the  highest  in  the  world) ;  the  Steel  Co. 
of  Scotland's  Works  at  Newton  (railway  from  Central  Station  in  V4  hr.)  and 
at  Blochairn;  and  the  ship-building  yards  at  Govan.  The  Singer  Afanii- 
facturing  Co.  of  Xew  York  has  huge  works  at  Kilbowie  (20  min.  by  train 
from  Queen  St.  Stat).  The  other  chief  products  and  industries  of  Glasgow 
include  iron,  cotton,  and  woollen  goods,  thread,  tubes  and  boilers,  calico- 
printing,  glass,  pottery,  bleaching,  dyeing,  and  muslin-weaving.  The  coal- 
traffic  is  also  immense. 

Glasgow  is  one  of  the  best  governed  cities  in  Great  Britain.  The  gas  and 
water  works,  tramway  lines,  parks,  etc.,  are  under  the  management  of  the 
Corporation,  which  has  also  established  model  lodiiing-houses  and  public 
baths  and  wash-houses,  and  in  other  ways  busied  itself  with  the  sanitary 
well-being  of  the  city.  —  The  admirable  water-supply  is  derived  from  Loch 
Katrine  (p.  494),  42  M.  distant.  Nearly  2V'2  millions  sterling  have  been 
expended  upon  the  works,  which  are  now  being  extended. 


488     Route  66.  GLASGOW.  Cathedral. 

The  *Harbour  and  Docks  of  Glasgow  are  always  thronged  with 
vessels  from  all  the  corners  of  the  earth.  About  half-a-century  ago 
the  Clyde  at  Glasgow  was  only  180  ft.  wide  and  3  ft.  deep;  now, 
by  continual  dredging,  it  has  been  made  480  ft.  wide  and  24-28  ft. 
deep,  allowing  the  largest  vessels  to  unload  here.  Between  1845 
and  1889  upwards  of  4,750,000Z.  was  spent  on  the  harbour  and 
dock  works ,  and  more  than  35,000,000  cubic  yards  of  material 
were  dredged  from  the  river-bed.  The  water -area  of  the  har- 
bour (which  extends  along  the  river  for  2V2  M.)  and  the  docks 
is  160  acres ;  the  total  length  of  the  quays  is  upwards  of  6  M. 
The  customs  dues  amount  to  about  l,000,000i.  Most  of  the  river 
passenger-steamers  start  from  the  ^Broomielaw  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  a 
quay  800  ft.  long,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  river,  just  below  Glasgow 
Bridge  (PI.  F.  5  ;  *View  of  the  harbour)  and  the  bridge  of  the  Cale- 
donian Railway.  A  little  to  the  S.E. ,  adjoining  the  river,  is  the 
open  space  known  as  Glasgow  Green  (PI.  G,  H,  6)  ,  with  Nelsori's 
Monument.  —  The  High  Street  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  leading  to  the  Cathe- 
dral ,  was  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  old  city  of  St.  Mungo.  At 
the  point  where  it  sweeps  to  the  right,  and  begins  to  ascend,  Wal- 
lace defeated  a  detachment  of  the  English  in  1300. 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI. H,  3  ;  open  daily  10-6;  onTues.  andThurs. 
2c?.,  other  days  free),  situated  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  town,  is  a  fine 
edifice,  dating  from  the  12-15th  cent,  and  mainly  in  the  E.E.  style. 
The  Sunday  services  are  at  11  a.  m.  and  2  p.  m.  The  building  is  320  ft. 
long,  70  ft.  wide,  and  90  ft.  high ;  the  tower  is  220  ft.  in  height. 

Interior  (fine  organ).  The  Nave  (14th  cent.)  has  a  flat  timber  ceiling. 
The  windows  throughout  the  church  have  been  filled  with  modern  stained 
glass,  chiefly  from  Munich,  at  a  cost  of  100,000?.  The  Choir,  separated 
from  the  nave  by  a  carved  screen,  is  a  good  specimen  of  E.E.,  probably 
dating  from  early  in  the  13th  century.  Behind  the  choir  are  the  Ladi/ 
Chapel  and  Chapter  Bouse.  Below  the'choir  is  the  "Crypt,  the  chief  glory 
of  the  Cathedral,  a  charmingly  proportioned  structure,  with  fine  vaulting. 
Its  65  pillars  are  surmounted  by  exquisitely  carved  capitals.  On  the  N. 
side  is  the  tomb  of  Edward  Irving  (d.  1834),  of  whom  a  portrait  appears, 
as  John  the  Baptist,  in  the  window  above. 

Glasgow  Cathedral  is  frequently  referred  to  in  'Rob  Roy%  and  the 
classical  description  of  it  is  undoubtedly  that  of  Andrew  Fairservice. 

To  the  left  of  the  Cathedral  stands  the  Royal  Infirmary  (PI.  H,  3) . 
In  the  vicinity,  in  front  of  the  handsome  Barony  Church  (PI.  H. 
3,  4),  is  a  statue  of  Dr.  Norman  Macleod  (d.  1872),  by  Mossman. 

On  a  height  to  the  E.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  *Necropolis  (PI. 
H,  4),  containing  numerous  substantial  monuments,  the  most  con- 
spicuous of  which  is  the  column  to  the  memory  of  John  Knox  (p.  479). 
Near  it  is  the  grave  of  Sheridan  Knowles  (d.  1862).    Fine  views. 

From  the  Cathedral  we  proceed  through  High  St.  and  George 
St.  to  George  Square  (PI.  F,  4),  the  finest  open  space  in  the  city, 
surrounded  by  the  new  Municipal  Buildings  (E.),  the  Post  Office 
(S.),  the  Bank  of  Scotland ,  the  Merchants'  House  (W.)  ,  several 
Hotels,  and  other  substantial  buildings. 


University.  GLASGOW.  66.  Route.     489 

In  the  centre  of  the  square  rises  a  column  80  ft.  high,  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Adjacent  are  equestrian  statues,  by  Maro- 
chetti,  of  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince  Albert.  The  other  statues  are  those 
of  Sir  John  Moore  (d.  1809),  bv  Flaxman  ;  Colin  Camphell,  Lord  Clyde  (d.  1863), 
by  Foley;  James  Wa't  (d.i819),  by  Chantrey;  Sir  Robert  Peel  (d.  1850),  by 
Mossman;  William  Pitt  (d.  1806),  by  Flaxman;  Dr.  Graham^  by  Brodie; 
Robert  Bttrns  (d.  1796),  by  Ewing;  Thomas  Campbell  (d.  1844).  by  Mossraan ; 
James  Oswald,  by  Marochetti;  and  Dr.  Livingstone  (d.l873),  by  Mossman. 
In  Queen  St.,  to  the  S.  of  George  Sq.,  stands  the  Royal  Ex- 
change (PL  F,  4),  in  the  Corinthian  style.  In  front  is  an  Equestrian 
Statue  of  the  Duke  ofWellington,  by  Marochetti. 

The  Mitchell  Library  (adm.  free;  9.30  a.m.  to  10  p.m.),  23  ililler  St. 
(PI.  F,  4),  contains  upwards  of  80,000  vols.,  including  5000  relating  to  Glas- 
gow and  1100  to  Robert  Burns.  Its  fine  magazine-roum  is  supplied  with 
about  270  periodicals. 

The  busiest  streets  are  Argyle  Street  (PI.  D,  E,  4) ,  Buchanan 
Street  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  Union  Street  (PL  E,  4),  and  Sauchiehall  Street 
(PL  D,  E,  3) ,  which  contain  the  most  attractive  shops.  Argyle 
St.  is  continued  towards  the  E.  hy  the  Tronynte,  with  the  steeple 
of  the  old  Tron  Church  (PL  G,  5;  comp.  p.  479),  which  ends  at  the 
Cross  (PL  G,  5).  From  the  Cross  the  Saltmarket ,  the  home  of 
Bailie  Nicol  Jarvie,  runs  southwards  to  the  river. 

Sauchiehall  St.  is  a  long  street  joining  the  E.  and  W.  quarters 
of  the  town.  On  the  N.  side  of  it  (No.  270)  are  the  *Corporation 
Galleries  (PL  E,  3),  containing  500  pictures,  including  specimens 
of  Rembrandt,  Ruysdael,  and  Venetian  masters  (adm,  free,  10  till 
dusk,  on  Sat.  till  9).  Among  the  statues  is  one  of  Pitt,  by  Flaxman. 
From  the  W.  end  of  Sauchiehall  St.  we  may  enter  the  pretty  West 
End  or  Kelvingrove  Park  (PLB,  2),  with  its  Museum  and  new  Art 
Galleries.  On  the  hill  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  Kelvin,  rises  the 
*University  (PL  A,  B,  1)  ,  founded  in  1450  or  1451  and  trans- 
ferred in  1870  to  its  present  magnificent  quarters,  designed  by  Sir 
G.  G.  Scott  (E.E.  domestic  style,  with  Scoto-Flemish  features  of 
later  date).  The  buildings  form  a  huge  rectangle,  530  ft.  long  and 
295  ft.  wide,  divided  into  two  by  the  handsome  Common  Hall, 
erected  at  the  expense  of  the  Marquis  of  Bute  (p.  194).  The  Central 
Tower,  200ft.  high,  is  surmounted  by  a  spire  of  100  ft.  more.  The 
total  cost  was  about  500,000i.  The  fine  17th  cent.  Gateway  of  the 
old  college  has  been  re-erected,  in  a  slightly  modified  form,  at  the 
entrance  to  the  University  grounds.  The  University  possesses  a 
library  of  180,000  vols.,  and  contains  the  Hunterian  Museum  (11-4; 
6d.),  with  its  famous  anatomical  collection.  The  number  of  stu- 
dents is  2500 ;  of  professors,  lecturers ,  and  assistants  60.  —  A 
little  to  the  W.  is  the  huge  Western  Infirmary  (PL  A,  1),  and  a 
little  to  the  N.  are  the  Botanic  Gardens  (beyond  PL  B,  1  ;  adm.  free), 
with  a  large  circular  conservatory.  —  The  terraces  and  streets  in 
this  part  of  the  town  are  very  handsome  and  substantial. 

The  S.  part  of  the  town  is  a  busy  manufacturing  district;  the 
S.  W.  part  is  mainly  residential,  with  the  large  Queen's  Pork,  com- 
manding a  *View  of  the   city,  and  including  Camp  Hill,   the  site 


490     Route  66.  LANARK. 

of  Regent  Moray's  camp  before  the  battle  of  Langside,  in  which  he 
defeated  the  forces  of  Queen  Mary  in  1568.  Near  the  large  Victoria 
Jiifirmary,  to  the  S.  of  the  park,  is  a  memorial  of  the  battle.  The 
ruins  of  Cathcart  Castle,  whence  the  Queen  watched  the  battle, 
lie  11/2  ^-  to  t^e  S.  — To  the  E.  of  the  town  is  the  large  Alexandra 
Park,  with  a  golf-course. 

^Excursions. 
Glasgow  stands  almost  unrivalled  among  the  towns  of  Great  Britain 
for  the  number,  charm,  and  variety  of  the  excursions  that  may  be  made 
from  it.  The  estuary  of  the  Clyde  alone  is  an  almost  inexhaustible  field 
(comp.  p.  4S7),  and  most  of  the  circular  tours  referred  to  at  p.  460  may 
be  begun  at  Glasgow. 

1.  To  Hamilton  (one  day),  11  M.,  railway  from  the  Central,  Bridge  St., 
or  Queen  St.  Station  in  Vs-^A  hr.  (fares  is.\  I'^jid.).  —  Hamilton  (Royal; 
County;  Douglas;  Clydesdale),  a  prosperous  little  town  with  24,860  inhab., 
pleasantly  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  Avon  and  the  Clyde,  is  a 
favourite  summer-resort.  Close  to  the  town  on  the  X.  is  Hamilton  Palace 
(adm.  only  by  special  permission),  the  magnificent  seat  of  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton.'  The  large  Park  (open  on  Tues.  and  Frid.)  contains  the  im- 
posing ducal  Mausoleum.  —  About  2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Hamilton,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Avon,  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  Cadzow  Castle,  the  sub- 
ject of  a  well-known  ballad  by  Scott.  Cadzow  Forest,  with  its  patriarchal 
oaks,  contains  a  herd  of  wild  white  cattle,  survivals  of  an  ancient  British 
race  (comp.  p.  424).  Opposite  Cadzow  Castle,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Avon,  is  the  summer-chateau  of  Chdtelherault,  built  by  the  Duke  of  Ha- 
milton in  1732  in  imitation  of  the  house  from  which  he  took  his  French 
title,  but  little  more  than  a  facade.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Hamilton 
is  Bothicell  Brig,  where  the  Cuvenanters  were  defeated  by  the  Royalists 
in  1679.  The  village  of  Bothicell  (Clyde  Hotel),  with  the  villas  of  numer- 
ous Glasgow  merchants,  is  '231.  farther  on  (train  from  Hamilton).  On  the 
Clyde,  3/4  M.  to  the  X.W.  of  the  village,  is  the  picturesque  ruin  of  *Both- 
well  Castle,  the  home  of  the  Earl  of  Bothwell ,  husband  of  yueen  Mary 
(open  on  Tues.  <fe  Frid..  9-5).  We  may  return  by  train  from  Bothwell  to 
Glasgow  in  35  min.  —  This  excursion  may  be  combined  with  the  next 
(one  night  out)  by  proceeding:  by  train  from  Hamilton  to  (9V2  M.)  Tillie- 
tudlem,  with  the  ruins  of  the  castle  ( Craignethan)  immortalised  in  Old 
Mortiility,  and  going  on  thence  to  (jo  T&.)  Lanark  (see  belnw),  taking  Stone- 
byres  (p".  491)  on  the  way;  or  we  may  go  by  coach  direct  to  (14 V2  M.) 
Lanark. 

2.  To  THE  Falls  of  Cltpe  (one  day).  Railway  from  the  Central  Sta- 
tion to  Lanark  (26  M.)  in  1V4-2  hrs.  Circular  tickets  (Is.  6rf.,  5s. ;  from 
Edinburgh  Us.,  7s. 1,  available  in  either  direction,  are  issued  for  a  com- 
bination of  this  route  with  Tillietudlem  (see  above) :  train  to  Lanark;  coach 
to  Crossford  via  Corehouse ,  Kirkfieldhank ,  and  Stonebyres  (6M.);  foot- 
path to  (IV2  M.)  Tillietudlem.  —  Lanark  (Black  Bull;  Clydesdale),  a  small 
town  with  5500  inhab.,  was  the  scene  of  the  earliest  exploits  of  William 
Wallace  (13th  cent.).  From  1784  onwards  it  was  the  home  of  Robert 
Owen ,  the  Socialist  (p.  268) ,  who  owned  the  mills  at  New  Lanark ,  in 
which  he  carried  on  several  interesting  socialistic  experiments.  In  visit- 
ing the  'Falls  of  Clyde  from  Lanark  the  following  is  perhaps  the  best 
plan.  After  leaving  the  station  we  take  the  fir-^'  street  to  the  left,  and 
immediately  afterwards  turn  to  the  right.  Xear  the  Black  Bull  we  again 
turn  to  the"  left ,  and  at  the  fork  we"  keep  to  the  right.  The  road  now 
descends  (road  to  right  between  two  houses  to  be  avoided)  to  the  first 
lodge  of  Bonnington  House,  in  the  grounds  of  which  (adm.  6(Z.)  are  the 
falls  of  G/2M.)  Cora  Linn  (85  ft.)  and  (V2  M.)  Bonnington  Linn  (30  ft.).  We 
then  return  to  Lanark,  pass  through  the  town,  and  proceed  to  the  W.  At 
the  (^/2M.)  fork  we  take  the  lower  road  to  the  left.  At  Q- 1 2^.)  Kirkfield- 
hank we  cross   a  bridge  over   the  Clyde.  [About  1/2  M.  to   the  N.,  on  the 


AYR.  66.  Rcmle.    491 

Mouse  Water,  are  the  pretty  *Cartland  Crags,  best  viewed  from  the  via- 
duct over  the  ravine.]  At  the  inn  on  the  other  side  of  the  bridge  we 
obtain  a  ticket  for  Stonebyres  (3d.),  G8  ft.  high  and  with  the  gre;,test  vol- 
ume of  water  of  the  three  falls,  which  lies  IV4  M.  farther  on.  Crossford 
(see  above)  is  2  31.  l.eyond  Stonebyres.  Travellers  with  circular -tickets 
(see  above)  visit  Cora  and  Boiinington  Linns  from  the  W.  or  Corehoute 
side  of  the  Clyde  (adm.  3d.). 

3.  To  Paislet,  7  M.  Railway  from  the  Central  or  St.  Enoch's  Station 
in  V4  hr. — Paisley  (Oeorcje;  County;  Globe),  a  smoke-begrimed  industrial 
town  on  the  Cart,  with  66,500  inhab.  and  lary;e  thread  (Coats;  Clark  & 
Co.),  shawl,  and  corn-flour  (Brown  &  Poison)  factories,  possesses  a  fine  -Abbey 
Church,  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  14-15th  centuries.  Handsome 
Town  Hall.     In  the  Fountain  Gardens  is  a  Statue  of  Burns  (1896). 

4.  To  Atk  and  the  Land  of  Bckns  (one  day).  The  railway  (St.  Enoch's 
Station)  to  Ayr  (40  M. ;  fares  5i.,  25.  6rf.)  runs  via  Paisley  (see  above); 
Kilwinning,  with  a  ruined  priory  of  the  12th  cent,  (to  the  Y..,  Eglinton 
Castle);  and  Irvine,  with  a  busy  trade  in  coal.  It  then  skirts  the  sea, 
passing  the  watering-places  of  Troon  and  Presttcick  (golf-links).  —  Ayr 
(Station;  King's  Arms;  Queen's),  an  ancient  seaport  with  28,'^00  inhab.,  is 
chiefly  interesting  as  the  centre  of  the  'Burns  Country'.  A  statue  of  the 
poet,  by  Laicson,  was  unveiled  in  front  of  the  railway-station,  in  1891. 
The '^«W  Bri(f,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  is  still  standing; 
while  the  'New  Brig"  of  the  poem  (1788)  was  rebuilt  in  1879.  The  Pier 
affords  a  good  view  of  the  mountains  of  Arran  (p.  492).  The  Wallace 
Toicer  (130  ft.  high)  was  built  in  1832  on  the  site  of  an  old  tower,  in  which 
the  hero  is  said  tc  have  been  imprisoned.  The  road  to  the  S.  leads  to 
(2  M.)  the  Cottage  in  which  Robert  Burns  was  horn  in  1(59,  containing  a 
few  relics  of  the  poet  (adm.  2d.).  The  whole  country-side  is  full  of  as- 
sociations with  his  poems.  About  Vs  M.  farther  on  is  Auld  Allotcay  Kirk, 
between  which  and  the  road  is  the  grave  of  Burns's  father.  Just  beyond 
the  church  are  two  bridges  over  the  Doon,  the  old  one  being  that  over 
which  Tam  O'Shanter  escaped  with  such  difficulty.  The  gardens  adjoin- 
ing the  bridges  cont;  in  the  Burns  Monument  (a^lm.  2d.),  a  pretentious  and 
somewhat  incongruous  structure  in  the  style  of  a  Greek  temple  (view), 
containing  figures  of  Tam  O'Shanter  and  Souter  Johnny.  We  may  return 
to  Ayr  by  the  road  on  the  left  (W.)  bank  of  the  Doon.  —  Beyond  Ayr  the 
railway  goes  on  to  Mayhole,  Girvan,  and  (59  M.)  Stranraer  (comp.  p.  474). 

In  regard  to  the  following  excursions  on  the  Clyde,  comp.  pp.  460,  461, 
497  (Circular  Tours). 

5.  To  Aerochak,  a  pleasant  excursion  for  one  day.  Steamer  from 
Greenock  or  Gourock  (p.  497)  to  Arrorhar  in  2  hrs.  (through-fare  from 
Glasgow  2s  ,  is.  6d.).  —  Arrochar  (Hotel)  lies  at  the  head  of  the  long  and 
narrow  Loch  Long  (p.  497).  From  Arrochar  we  may  return  direct  by 
steamer  or  walk  or  drive  (coach)  across  to  (2V4  M.)  Tarbet  on  Loch  Lomond 
(p.  493),  returning  by  steamer  to  Bulloch  (p.  493)  and  thence  to  Glasgow 
by  railway  (fare  for  the  round,  including  coach,  7s.,  5s.).  Or  we  may 
return  by  train  from  the  Arrochar  and  Tarbet  station  (p.  506)  to  Glasgow. 

6.  To  Gakeloch  Head  (one  day).  We  take  the  train  to  (25  M.  in 
1  hr. ;  fares  Is.  9d.,  Is.)  Helensburgh  (p.  506)  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gareloch, 
and  proceed  thence  by  steamer  to  (','4  M.)  Gareloch  Head  (p.  5U6).  We  may 
return  by  the  West  Highland  Railway. 

7.  To  LocHGoiLiiEAu  (one  day).  Steamer  from  Greenock  or  Gourock 
(p.  497)  in  2  hrs.  (return-fares  from  Glasgow,  45.,  3s.  3d.). 

8.  To  Rothesay  (one  day),  see  p.  498;  return-fare  from  Greenock 
is.  9d..  \s.  3d. 

9.  To  Ardkishaig  and  back  by  the  'Columba'  (p.  496),  one  day;  re- 
turn-fare from  (Glasgow  65.,  3s.  6d.,  from  Greenock  5s.,  3s.;  B..  D.,  <fe  tea 
in  cabin  Gs.,  in  fore-cabin  Ss.  Qd. 

10.  To  THE  Island  of  Arran  (two  days).  We  may  either  go  the  whole 
way  by  steamer  (5-6  hrs.;  fares  2s.  Gd.,  Is.  Od.) ;  or  by  train  from  the  Cen- 
tral Station  to  Wemyss  Bay  in  1  hr.  and  thence  by  steamer  ('Ivanhoe')  in 
2V2  hra.  (fares  3s.  8d.,  25.  6d.);  or  by  train  from  the  Central  station  ..r 
St.  Enoch's  to  Ardrossan  in  V^IV*  ^^-  ^^^  thence  by  steamer  in  35-45  min. 


492     Route  66.  INVERARAY. 

(fares  4s.  &d..  Is.  %d.).  It  is  possible,  but  not  advisable,  to  make  this 
excursion  in  one  day.  The  'Ivanboe'  (temp,  restaur.)  touches  at  Rothesay, 
steams  through  the  Kyles  of  Bute  (p.  493),  and  calls  at  Gorrie  ('Hotel), 
Brodick  (Douglas  Hotel).  Lamlash  (Hotel),  and  Whiting  Bay.,  all  on  the  E. 
coast  of  the  island.  A  coach  plies  in  summer  from  Whiting  Bay  to  Lagg., 
at  the  S.  end  of  Arran.  The  picturesque  Brodick  Castle  and  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  mountainous  Isle  of  Arran,  which  is  about  20  M.  long  and 
12-13  M.  wide,  belong  to  the  Duke  of  Hamilton.  The  best  short  excursion 
(6  hrs.)  is  to  ascend  from  Brodick  through  Glen  Rosa  to  (2-272  hrs.)  the  top 
of  *Goatfell  (2866  ft.;  'View),  descend  through  the  wild  "Glen  Sannox 
(I-IV2  hr.),  and  return  along  the  coast  via  (IV2  M.)  Corrie  to  (41/2  M.)  Bro- 
dick. ''Loch  Ranza  (Inn),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  island,  9  M.  from  Corrie, 
also  deserves  a  visit  (direct  steamer,  see  below).  —  The  walk  round  the 
island  (ca.  50  M.)  is  interesting. 

11.  To  Campbeltown  (1  or  2  days).  From  Glasgow  we  take  the  train 
to  Greenock  or  Gourock,  where  we  join  the  steamer  (fare  4s.,  2*.  6c?.,  re- 
turn 7s.,  4s.),  which  sails  by  Loch  Ranza  (see  above),  Firnmill,  and  Carra- 
dale  to  Campbeltown  (ArgyleArms;  White  Hart),  a  whisky-distilling  place 
on  the  Mull  of  Cantyre.  Coach  from  Campbeltown  to  West  Tarbert ,  see 
p.  498.  About  3  M.  from  Campbeltown,  on  the  W.  coast  of  the  Mull,  is 
Machrihanish  Bay  (Pan's  Hotel),  a  summer-resort  with  good  golting-links. 

12.  To  Inveearat  (1-2  days).  For  this  excursion  there  are  five  differ- 
ent routes,  among  which  it  is  difficult  to  choose :  a.  By  steamer  ('Lord  of 
the  Isles',  well  equipped)  from  Glasgow,  Greenock,  or  Gourock  to  Inveraray 
direct;  b.  To  Arrochav  (p.  491)  and  thence  on  foot  or  by  coach  through 
Glencroe  (20  M.)-,  c.  To  Lochgoilhead  (p.  491),  thence  by  coach  or  on  foot 
to  (9  M.)  St.  Catherine's  Ferry  (hilly  road) ,  and  from  St.  Catherine's  to 
Inveraray  by  small  steamer  in  1/4  hr.  •,  d.  From  Greenock  or  Gourock  by 
steamer  to  Dunoon,  by  coach  to  Loch  Eck  {Inverchapel ;  8  M.),  by  steamer  to 
the  N.  end  of  this  loch  (6  M.),  by  coach  to  Strachur  (5  M.).  and  by  steamer 
to  Inveraray  (4  M. ;  in  all,  5  hi-s.  from  Greenock);  e.  To  Tarbet  (p.  493) 
either  via  Balloch  (P..  67)  or  by  the  West  Highland  Railway  (R.  70)  and 
coach  thence  via  Arrochar  to  Inveraray  in  4  hrs.  (24  M.  ;  8s.).  —  In- 
veraray (Argyll  Arms,  11.  &  A.  4s.,  B.  2s.  &d.;  George),  the  insignificant 
little  county-town  (1000  inhab.)  of  Argyllshire,  is  beautifully  situated  at 
the  N.W.  end  of  Loch  Fyne  (famous  for  its  herrings),  in  a  district  noted 
for  the  beauty  and  variety  of  its  trees.  Adjacent  is  Inveraray  Castle,  the 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll  ,  in  a  finely  wooded  park.  Fine  view  from 
Duniquoich  (900  ft.;  up  and  down  2  hrs.).  —  From  Inveraray  a  coach  runs 
by  Glen  Aray  to  (10  M.)  Cladich,  near  the  romantic  *Loch  Awe  (p.  498),  on 
which  a  whole  day  may  be  pleasantly  spent  (steamer),  and  thence,  with 
a  view  of  Ben  Cruachan  {^^iO  ft.),  to  (6  M.)  Dalmally  on  the  Oban  Railway 
(p.  502). 

13.  To  Belfast,  via  steamer  'Adder'  from  Greenock  (I21/2  hrs.  there 
and  back;  return-fares  12s.  6c?.,  6s.).  We  leave  Glasgow  (St.  Enoch's)  at 
8  a.m.  and  have  IV2  hr.  on  shore  ft  Belfast. 

67.  From  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  via  Loch  Lomond, 
Loch  Katrine,  and  Stirling. 

Railway  to  Balloch  in  I-IV4  hr. ;  Steamer  to  Inversnaid  in  lVs-lV4  hr. ; 
Coach  to  Loch  Katrine  in  1  hr. ;  Steamboat  to  the  Trossachs  in  3/4  hr. ; 
Coach  to  Callander  in  21/4  hrs.  (including  halt  of  V2  br.  at  the  Trossachs 
Hotel);  Railway  via  Stirling  to  Edinburgh  in  2-2V2  hrs.  (or  from  Stirling 
direct  to  Glasgow  in  IV2  hr.).  This  tour,  which  takes  in  all  11-12  hrs.,  is 
in  favourable  weather  one  of  the  most  delightful  in  the  United  Kingdom. 
It  is  better  to  take  two  days  for  it,  sleeping  at  Rowardennan  and  climbing 
Ben  Lomond  on  the  following  morning.  The  Circular  Tour  Tickets  are 
available  for  7  davs,  and  the  journey  may  be  broken  at  any  point.  Fares 
from  Glasgow  and  back  20_s.  4cZ. ,  16s.  4c?.;  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh 
(or   vice  versa)   22s.  id.,    its.  6c?.;    from  Edinburgh   and   back,   including 


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LOCH  LOMOND.  67.  Route.     493 

Glasgow,  26s.  4d.,  20s.  4d.  —  Carriage  and  pair  from  Inversnaid  to  Loch 
Katrine  10s.,  gratuity  2s.;  from  the  Trossachs  to  Callander  15s.  and  3s.  6d.-, 
from  Inversnaid  to  Stronachlacher  It.  Bd.  -  iOs.  and  Is.  6d.-2s.  Qd. 

The  Trossachs  tour  from  Glasgow  to  Edinburgh  may  also  be  made  via 
Aherfoyle  (fares  as  above);  see  p.  496. 

The  train  runs  to  the  W.  from  Queen  Street  Station  (Low  Level), 
following  at  first  the  underground  siiburban  railway,  and  beyond 
(10  M.)  Dalmuir  approaches  the  busy  waterway  of  the  Clyde.  At 
(13  M.)  Bowling  begins  the  Forth  <$-  Clyde  Canal.  —  16  M.  Dum- 
barton (Elephant;  Lennox  Temperance),  an  industrial  town  with 
17,000  inhab.,  is  commanded  by  a  Castle,  strikingly  situated  on  a 
precipitous  rocky  hill  (280  ft.)  and  presenting  a  very  picturesque 
appearance,  especially  when  seen  from  the  Clyde.  Dumbarton 
Castle  plays  a  prominent  part  in  Scottish  history,  and  was  one  of 
the  four  fortresses  secured  to  Scotland  at  the  time  of  the  Union. 
The  town  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Leven,  through  which  Loch 
Lomond  discharges  its  waters.  —  The  train  now  turns  to  the  N., 
leaving  the  Fort  William  line  (R.  70j  to  the  left.  At  (18  M.)  Ren- 
ion  is  a  monument  to  Tobias  Smollett  (1721-71),  who  was  born  at 
Dalquharn,  a  little  to  the  S.  —  At  (21  M.)  Balloch  (Hotel)  the 
train  runs  on  to  the  pier,  alongside  the  steamer  (with  restaurant, 
D.  Is.  6d.).  Balloch  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  *Locli  Lomond,  the  largest 
(25  M.  long,  1-5 M.  wide)  and  in  some  respects  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  Scottish  lakes.  Us  beauty  is  enhanced  by  many  wooded  is- 
lands, among  which  the  steamer  threads  its  way.  Lmss  (*Hotel),  our 
first  or  second  stopping-place,  lies  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake,  at 
the  point  where  it  begins  to  contract.  The  majestic  *Ben  Lomond 
(3192  ft.)  forms  the  background  to  the  right;  those  who  wish  to 
ascend  it  disembark  at  Rowardennan  (Hotel ,  R.  &  A.  4s.,   D.  4s.). 

The  ascent  of  Ben  Lomond  takes  2-3  hrs.  (descent  IV2  hr.)  and  is 
easily  accomplished,  even  by  ladies;  guide  unnecessary,  pony  with  guide 
8-lOs.  The  only  point  where  it  is  possible  to  miss  the  path  is  a  marshy 
track  about  halfway  up;  here  we  bear  to  the  left  and  soon  come  in  sight 
of  the  cairn  which  serves  as  a  land-mark.  The  'View  is  very  extensive, 
stretching  on  the  S.K.  over  the  Lowlands  as  far  as  Edinburgh;  to  the  W. 
lies  Loch  Lomond,  with  the  Col)bler,  Ben  Vane,  Ben  Voirlich,  and  other 
mountains  surrounding  it;  more  to  the  right  are  the  twin-peaks  of  Ben 
Cruachan  and  the  tent-shaped  Ben  More.  —  The  descent  may  be  made  to 
Inversnaid  (see  below)  or  to  AberfoiiU  (p.  496),  to  the  S.E. 

From  Rowardennan  the  steamer  takes  20  min.  to  reach  Tarbet 
(*Hotel,  R.  &  A.  As.  Qd.,  B.  3s.),  prettily  situated  on  the  W.  bank, 
and  commanding  the  best  view  of  Ben  Lomond.  Railway-station, 
see  p.  506;  coach  to  Inverary,  see  p.  507.  —  Our  steamboat-journey 
ends  at  Inversnaid  [Hotel,  R.  &:  A.  4s.),  one  of  the  finest  points 
on  Loch  Lomond,  affording  splendid  views  of  the  mountains  above 
Arrochar.   Just  before  reaching  the  pier  we  pass  a  pretty  waterfall. 

The  steamer  goes  on  to  (V2  hr.)  Ardlui  (Hotel,  R.  &  A.  3s.),  at  the 
head  of  the  loch,  and  returns  later  to  Inversnaid.  Railway-station,  see 
p.  507.  Coaches  (fare  4s.)  ply  twice  daily  from  Ardlui  via  (2  31.)  "In- 
verarn an  Hotel  and  up  (Hen  Fa'Uoch  to  (6V->  M.)  Crianlarich  (^.  502),  whence 
we  may  proceed  by  railway  to  Dalmally  (p.  5li2)   or  Killin  (p.  b&l).    —    A 


494     Route  67.  THE  TROSSACHS.  From  Glasgow 

small-boat    or   walking  excursion]^.may   be   made   from  Inversnaid  to  Rob 
Roy'^s  Cave^  1  M.  to  the  N,,  with  an  almost  invisible  entrance. 

At  luversnaid  the  steamer  is  met  by  a  coach  to  take  the  pass- 
engers across  the  ridge  between  Loch  Lomond  and  Loch  Katrine, 
a  distance  of  572  ^^-  Those  -^ho  prefer  it  have  usually  time 
(I72  l^r-)  *o  walk,  but  the  ascent  from  this  side  is  long  and  some- 
what fatiguing.  The  road  passes  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  and  the 
small  Loch  Arklet.  On  reaching  Stronachlachar  (*Hotel),  we  embark 
in  the  small  screw-steamer  that  plies  on  *Loch  Katrine,  a  beau- 
tiful lake  about  9'/2  ^i-  long.  The  finest  scenery  is  at  its  E.  end, 
where  steep  cliffs  alternate  with  beautiful  woods ,  in  which  the 
bright  green  foliage  of  the  birch  is  predominant.  Here,  too,  is  the 
charming  little  ^Ellen's  Isle,  immortalised  in  the  'Lady  of  the 
Lake',  a  poem  that  renders  all  other  guide-books  almost  super- 
fluous for  this  part  of  Scotland.  To  the  right  towers  the  noble  form 
of  Ben  Venue  (2'dQ3  ft.).  Some  traces  of  the  works  for  conveying  the 
water  of  Loch  Katrine  to  Glasgow  (comp.  p.  487)  may  be  seen  on 
the  S.  shore.  —  From  the  pier  to  Aberfoyle,  see  p.  496. 

The  *Trossachs  ('bristling  country'),  a  richly-wooded  and  ro- 
mantic valley,  begin  immediately  to  the  E.  of  Loch  Katrine,  and 
there  are  few  more  beautiful  districts  in  Scotland  than  that  be- 
tween Ellen's  Isle  and  the  (IV4M.)  Trossachs  Hotel  {R.  &  A.  4s., 
B,  OS.,  D.  5s.),  on  the  bank  of  the  small  *Loch  Achray.  The  coach 
waits  Vo  hr.  at  the  hotel,  and  luncheon  (2$.  6d.)  is  ready  for  the 
passengers.  At  the  E.  end  of  Loch  Achray  we  pass  (1^2  -^^^0  the 
Brig  of  Turk ,  and  1  M.  farther  on  we  reach  *Loch  Vennachar, 
along  the  N.  side  of  which  the  road  runs  for  4  M.  To  the  left  rises 
BenLedi  (see  below).  At  the  E.  end  of  the  loch  is  Coilantogle  Ford, 
the  scene  of  the  combat  between  Fitzjames  and  Roderick  Dhu.  On 
a  hill  to  the  left,  shortly  before  we  reach  (2  M.)  Callander,  is  a 
curiously  perched  boulder  known  as  'Samson's  Putting  Stone'. 

Callander  (* Dreadnought,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  B.  3s.  6d.,  D.4s.;  An- 
caster  Arms;  Caledonian  Temperance;  Hydropathic),  a  favourite 
centre  of  Highland  tourists,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Teith. 

Those  who  have  not  time  to  take  the  tour  mentioned  at  p.  502 
should  at  least  walk  or  drive  (one-horse  carr.  there  and  back  6-75.)  through 
the  picturesque  Pass  of  Lenu  to  (3V2  M.)  -Loch  Luhnaig  (comp.  p.  502). 
Tolerable  walkers  should  extend  this  excursion  to  Strathyre,  01/2  M.  farther 
on,  beyond  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  return  thence  by  train. 

About  11/2  M.  to  the  X.  of  Callander  are  the  Falls  of  Bracklin,  in  a 
romantic  wooded  gorge.  On  the  way  from  the  station  to  the  village  we 
take  the  first  crossroad  to  the  right  and  ascend  by  a  rough  cart-track 
to  (1  min.)  a  small  wood.  The  indistinct  footpath  skirts  this  to  the  right 
and  leads  along  the  hillside  to  (S  min.)  a  wall,  which  we  cross.  "We  con- 
tinue in  the  same  direction  (E.)  to  (8  min.)  a  deep  hollow,  and  then  de- 
scend to  (2-3  min.)  the  falls.  We  cross  the  little  wooden  bridge  and  ex- 
plore the  pretty  points  of  view  on  the  opposite  bank.  —  Callander  is  the 
usual  starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  Ben  Ledi  (2ST5  ft.;  2V2-3  hrs.;  *View). 

From  Callander  we  continue  our  journey  by  railway.  To  the 
right,    at  (8  M.)  Doune ,  is  a  picturesque  ruined   castle.  —  11  M. 


to  Edinburgh.  STIRLING.  67.  Route.     495 

Dunblane  (Stirling  Arms ;  *  Hydropathic)  has  an  E.E.  *Cathedral 
(IStli  cent.),  with  a  Norman  tower,  the  choir  and  nave  of  which 
are  used  as  the  parish-church,  while  the  rest  is  in  ruins.  Pleasant 
walk  through  Kippenross  Park  to  Bridge-of-Allan.  A  little  to  the 
W.  of  Dunblane  is  the  field  of  Sheriffmuir  (battle  1715).  —  13  M. 
Bridge-of-Allan  (Royal;  Queen's;  Hydropathic).,  an  inland  water- 
ing-place, with  mineral  springs,  famed  for  its  mild  climate. 

16  M.  Stirling  (* Golden  Lion,  King  St.,  1/4  M.  from  the  station  ; 
Royal;  Lennox  Station;  Temperance),  an  ancient  town  with  17,000 
inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Forth,  35  M.  above  Edinburgh,  and  was 
formerly  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Scottish  sovereigns.  The 
picturesque  and  venerable  *  Castle  is  situated  upon  a  lofty  height 
overlooking  the  town  and  resembling  the  castle-rock  of  Edinburgh. 
On  the  Esplanade  is  a  Statue  of  Robert  Bruce. 

Stirling  Castle  plays  a  prominent  part  in  Scottish  history.  In  ISO'l  it 
was  taken  by  Edward  I.  of  P^ngland  after  a  siege  of  three  months,  hut  it 
was  retaken  by  Bruce  ten  years  later,  after  Bannockburn.  James  II.  (1430) 
and  James  V.  "(1512)  were  born  in  the  castle;  and  here,  in  1452,  James  II. 
stabbed  the  rebellious  Earl  of  Douglas. 

We  first  enter  the  Lower  Court  (guide  Gd.  each,  unneces=ary),  in  which, 
to  the  left,  stands  the  Gothic  Palace  of  James  V.  (16th  cent.).  Thence  we 
pass  into  the  Upper  Court,  on  the  E.  side  of  which  stands  the  Parliament 
House,  and  on  the  N.  the  Chapel  Eoijal.  The  passage  to  the  left  of  the 
latter  leads  to  the  Douglas  Gardens ,  whence  a  flight  of  steps  ascends  to 
the  Douglas  Room,  the  scene  of  the  above-mentioned  tragedy.  Good  views 
are  obtained  from  the  garden-wall  behind  the  governors  house:  to  the 
extreme  left  (W.)  Ben  Lomond,  then  Ben  Venue,  Ben  Ledi,  and  Ben  Voir- 
lich;  to  the  N.  and  E.  the  Ochils;  nearer,  Bridge  of  Allan,  the  Abbey 
Craig  and  Wallace  Monument,  Cambuskenneth  Abbey,  and  the  'Links  of 
Forth' ;  to    the  S.,  Bannockburn. 

We  now  pass  through  the  park-like  Cemetery,  with  its  handsome 
Martyrs'  Memorial,  to  the  ancient  Grey  friars'  Church  (1494;  adm. 
Id.y,  fine  view  from  the  highest  part  of  the  churchyard  (orient- 
ation-table). Adjacent  is  Cowane's  Hospital  or  Guildhall,  with  a 
small  museum.  —  Among  the  interesting  old  houses  of  Stirling  is 
ArgyWs  Lodging,  in  Broad  St.  (E.  side  of  the  Castle  Wynd),  built 
in  the  16th  cent.,  and  now  a  military  hospital. 

Excursions  from  Stirling.  About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Stirling  lies 
the  village  of  St.  Ninian  (omn.  'id.),  and  1/2  M.  farther  on  is  the  field  of 
Bannockburn,  where  Robert  Bruce  defeated  the  army  of  Edward  II.,  thrice 
as  large  as  the  Scottish  army,  in  1314.  The  '■Bore  Stone'',  on  which  the 
Scottish  standard  was  planted,  is  still  pointed  out  (view).  —  At  Sauchie- 
burn,  3  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Bannockburn,  James  III.  was  defeated  by  his 
insurgent  nobles  in  li'^S.  Beaton's  Mill,  the  house  in  which  he  was 
assassinated  after  the  battle,  still  exists. 

Cambuskenneth  Abbey  (adm,  to  tower  2d.)  ,  on  the  left  hank  of  the 
Forth,  a  little  below  Stirling,  was  founded  by  David  I.  in  1147  and  be- 
came the  wealthiest  Augustine  monastery  in  Scotland.  James  III.  and  his 
wife  Margaret  of  Denmark  are  buried  inthe  abbey.  To  reach  it,  we  turn 
to  the  right  on  leaving  the  station,  descend  the  right  bank  for  1  M.,  and 
then  cross  by  the  ferry  (Id.). 

Just  above  the  new  bridge  the  Forth  is  spanned  by  the  interesting 
Old  Bridge,  of  the  loth  cent.,  on  which  Archbp.  Hamilton,  the  last  Roman 
Catholic  prelate  in  Scotland,  was  lianged  for  participation  in  the  murder 
of  the  Regent  Moray  (1570).     The  famous  battle  of  Stirling,  in  which  Wal- 


496    Route  67.  ALLOA. 

lace  defeated  the  English  in  1297,  took  place  a  little  farther  up,  near  an 
old  wooden  bridge,  which  has  long  since  disappeared. 

Tramway-cars  ply  every  20  min.  from  Stirling  to  (3  M.)  Bvidge-of-Al- 
lan  (see  p.  495;  fare  3c?.),  passing,  on  the  right,  the  'Abbey  Craig  (362  ft.  ; 
=View),  which  is  surmounted  by  the   Wallace  Monument  (adm.  2d.). 

Fkom  Stirling  to  Kinross.  23  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  3s.  llrf., 
is.  \V-J2d.).  —  6V2  M.  Alloa  (Royal  Oak),  with  10.700  inhab.,  the  county- 
town  of  Clackmananshire.  is  also  on  the  direct  line  to  Edinburgh  A^ia  Dun- 
fermline (p.  516)  and  the  Forth  Bridge.  —  I2V2  M.  Dollar  (180  ft. ;  Castle 
Campbell  Hotel)  ,  a  small  town  with  a  good  public  school  (5-600  pupils), 
near  which  is  the  finely  situated  '''Castle  Campbell  (adm.  6<?. ;  view).  From 
the  castle  we  may  ascend  Ben  Clench  (2363  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  OcTiils 
(view).  16'  2  M.  Rumbling  Bridge  (Hotel),  station  for  the  "Ri/nibling  Bridge.^ 
crossing  the  romantic  gorge  of  the  Devon  (adm.  to  walks  6d.).  Xear  the 
bridge  is  the  DeviVs  Mill  Fall ^  and  1  M.  lower  down  is  the  ^Cauldron 
Linn.  —  23  31.  Kinross  (Kirkland's),  a  small  town  on  Loch  Leven,  a  lake 
4  M.  long  and  2  M.  wide,  famed  for  its  trout  (boat,  with  boatman,  2t.  Qd. 
per  hr.).  On  an  island  in  the  loch  is  an  old  castle  in  which  Queen  Mary 
was  imprisoned  in  1567,  making  her  escape  in  the  following  vear  (comp. 
Scott"s  'Abbot').     From  Kinross  to  Edinburgh  (I-IV2  hr.),  see  p'p.  506.  507. 

From  Stirling  to  Aberfotle  ,  211/2  M. ,  railway  in  l-l^/i  hr.  (fares 
3^.  5cf.,  Is.  Si/scf.).  —  The  line  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  line  to 
Callander  and  runs  along  the  S.  side  of  the  Forth.  6  M.  Gai-gunnock;  9  M. 
Kippen;  13  M.  Port  of  Menteith .  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Lake  of  Menteith 
(see  below).  —  15V2  M.  Buchlpvie,  and  thence  to  Aberfople,  see  below. 
Beyond  Buchlyvie   the  line  goes  on  to  (28  M.)  Balloch  (p.  493). 

From  Stirling  we  may  also  return  to  Edinburgh  by  steamer  on  the 
Forth  (3-372  hrs.;  comp.  p.  475). 

The  railway  from  Stirling  to  Edinburgh  joins  tlie  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow  line  at  Polmont  Junction  (p.  486). 

The  stages  on  the  alternative  route  via  Aberfople,  mentioned  at  p.  493, 
are  as  follows :  —  Eailwat  from  Glasgow  to  Bcchlyvie  and  Aberfotle, 
34  M. ,  in  11/4-1^-4  It.  ;  Coach  from  Aberfotle  to  Loch  Katrine  Pier, 
7  M. ,  in  11/2  hr.  (fare  4s.  6(i.);  thence  as  above.  —  The  train  starts  at 
the  Queen  St.  Station  (p.  4S6)  and  diverges  to  the  N.  (left)  from  the  Edin- 
burgh line  at  (61  2  M.)  Lemie  (p.  486).  B1/2  M.  Kirkintilloch.  Beyond  (11  M.) 
Le7inoxtoicn  it  traverses  the  pretty  Campsie  Glen.  20  M.  Killeam,  At  (2272  M.) 
Gartness  we  join  the  Balloch-Stirling  line  and  turn  to  the  right.  Loch 
Lomond  (p.  493)  lies  about  4  M.  to  the  W.  At  (241/2  M.)  Balfron  the  pipes 
of  the  Loch  Katrine  aqueduct  (p.  494)  cross  the  railway.  28  M.  Buchlyvie 
(Hotel)  is  the  junction  of  the  short  branch-line  to  (6  M.)  Aberfoyle  (Bailie 
Nicol  Jarvie  Hotel),  which  traverses  a  swampy  moorland  and  passes  2  M. 
to  the  W.  of  the  small  Lake  of  Menteith  (see  Scotfs  'Rob  Roy').  The  ascent 
of  Ben  Lomond  (p.  493)  may  be  made  from  Aberfoyle  in  3V2-4'/2  hrs.  — 
The  road  from  Aberfoyle  to  the  Trossachs  (7  M.)  affords  a  good  view  of 
Ben  Ledi  (p.  494)  and  a  glimpse  of  Loch  Vennachar  (p.  494).  To  the  right 
lies  the  pretty  Loch  Drunkie.  Finally  we  pass  the  W.  end  of  Loch  Achray 
(p.  494)  and  join  the  above  described  route  at  the  Trossachs  Hotel  (p.  494). 

68.  From  Glasgow  to  Oban.  Western  Scotland. 

From  Glasgow  to  Oban,  120  M.,  steamer  daily  in  10  hrs.,  starting  at 
7  a.m.  (fares  13s..  7s.  Qd.).  As  far  as  Ardrishaig  (see  p.  49S)  we  travel  by 
the  admirably  appointed  'Columba",  probably  the  finest  river-steamer  in 
Europe,  with  an  excellent  restaurant  (B.  25.',  D.  2s.  6rf.),  drawing-rooms, 
baths,  post-office,  etc.  Travellers  may  leave  Glasgow  by  rail  (St.  Enoch's 
or  Central  Station)  at  8.15-8.30  a.m., 'or  Edinburgh  {Caledonian  or  Waver- 
ley  Station,  p.  474)  at  7-7.30  a.m.,  and  join  the  steamer  at  Greenock,  Gou- 
rock.  or  Dunoon  (comp.  p.  487).  From  Ardrishaig  travellers  proceed  either 
via  the  Crinan  Canal  (p.  49S)  or  via  Loch  Awe  (p.  498) ,  the  latter  route 
being   the   longer    by  about  I72  hr.  (fare  19s.,  13s.  6c?.). 


GREENOCK.  68.  Route.     497 

Travellers  may  go  by  this  route  as  far  as  Oban  and  return  thence  by 
train  in  one  long  day,  reaching  Edinburgh  again  at  11.15  and  Glasgow  at 
11.30  p.m.  Circular  tuur  fares:  from  Glasgow  2l5.,  lis.  6cf . ;  from  Edin- 
burgh 29s.,  155.  6<i.  Holders  of  third-class  tickets  may  travel  in  the  cabin 
of  the  steamer  on  paying  4s.  6d.  extra  to  the  purser. 

Oban  mav  also  be  reached  by  railwav,  either  via  the  Caledonian  line 
(p.  502 ;  116  M'.  in  4V4  63/4  hrs.)  or  via  the  West  Higblund  Line  of  the  N.B.R. 
(R.  70),  chauiiing  carriages  at  Crianlarich  (to  Oban,  101  M..  in  5V4-9  hrs.). 

Those  who  prefer  it  may  go  to  Oban  all  the  way  by  steamer  ('Clay- 
more' or  'Clansman')  in  about  14  hrs.,  leaving  Greenock  at  6  p.m.  on 
Mon.  and  Thurs.  (fare  10s.).  The  route,  a  very  fine  one  for  good  sailors, 
leads  past  Arran  (see  p.  492),  round  the  Mull  of  Cantyre  (often  stormy), 
and  then  to  the  N.  between  the  mainland  and  the  islands  of  Islay  and 
Jura.  Beyond  Oban  the  steamers  go  on  to  Tobertnory  (p.  500),  Broadford 
(p.  501),  Portree  (p.  5U1),  and  Stornoway  (p.  505;  40  hrs.  from  Glasgow). 

This  route  may  be  conveniently  combined  with  RR.  (39,  71  by  pro- 
ceeding by  railway  from  Inverness  to  Aberdeen;  and  the  tive  routes,  Nos. 
67,  68,  69,  71a,  72,  with  a  few  excursions  from  the  chief  centres,  include 
all  the  finest  scenery  in  Scotland  between  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow  on  the 
S.  and  Inverness  on  the  N. 

The  'Columba'  at  first  threads  its  way  through  the  crowded 
shipping  of  the  harbour ,  among  which  may  usually  he  seen  some 
of  the  Atlantic  steamers  of  the  Anchor,  Allan,  and  State  Lines. 
To  the  right  is  the  extensive  Queens  Dock^  to  the  left  the  new  Cess- 
nock  Dock,  and  numerous  large  ship-huilding  yards  are  passed  on 
both  banks.  The  first  stopping-place  is  Partick^  opposite  the  busy 
suburban  town  of  Govan  (p.  487 ;  to  the  left).  Below  {Q  M.)  Renfrew 
(left)  is  Elderslie,  the  birthplace  of  William  Wallace.  12  M.  (right) 
Bowling  (p.  493),  a  little  beyond  which  is  an  obelisk  commemorat- 
ing Henry  Bell,  the  introducer  of  steam-navigation  to  Europe.  — 
18  M.  Dumbarton  (p.  493).  Ben  Lomond  is  visible  to  the  N.  in 
clear  weather.  —  I8V2  ^1-  ^ort  Glasgoxo  (left)  formerly  was  what 
its  name  implies,  but  has  lost  its  importance  through  the  deepen- 
ing of  the  Clyde  at  Glasgow.  The  second  stoppage  (2  hrs.  from 
Glasgow)  is  at  — 

22  M.  Greenock  (Tontine;  White  Hart;  Royal;  Buck's  Head), 
a  finely  situated  and  flourishing  seaport,  with  ample  harbour  ac- 
commodation, extensive  sugar-refineries,  and  large  ship-building 
yards,  iron-foundries,  and  engineering  works.  Pop.  (1891)  63,086. 
The  '■Tail  of  the  Bank',  part  of  a  large  sandbank  off  Greenock,  af- 
fords the  best  anchorage  in  the  Clyde.  One  or  more  men-of-war 
are  generally  to  be  seen  here.  Passengers  by  the  Midland  and 
G.  S.  W.  Railways  join  the  steamer  at  Prince's  Pier,  at  Greenock. 

Beyond  Greenock  the  river  widens.  To  the  left  is  the  seaside 
resort  of  Gourock  (Ashton  Hotel),  where  passengers  by  the  Cale- 
donian (Glasgow,  Edinburgh,  etc.)  and  L.  N.  W.  Railways  embark. 
The  trains  run  alongside  the  steamer.  To  the  right  is  the  long 
and  narrow  Loch  Long  (p.  491).  The  steamer  calls  at  Kirn  (at  the 
mouth  of  the  Holy  Loch),  Dunoon  (where.it  is  joined  by  passengers 
coming  over  the  G.  N.  R.,  N.  K.  R..  and  N.  B.  R.  via  Craigondoran, 
p.  506) ,  and  Innellan ,  three  popular  watering-places.    Nearly  op- 

Baedeker's  Great  Britain.    4th  Edit.  32 


498     Route  68.  ROTHESAY.  From  Glasgow 

posite  Dunoon  is  the  Clock  Lighthouse.  We  then  pass  Toward  Point 
and  Lighthouse  (right)  and  cross  to  — 

40  M.  Rothesay  (Qween's;  Bute  Arms;  Victoria,  R.  &A.  at  these 
from  4s.,  D.  from  3s.;  Glenburn  Hydropathic ;  hoat  6d.  per  hr.),  the 
capital  (9000  inhah.)  of  the  island  of  Bute  and  in  some  respects 
the  'Brighton'  of  the  Clyde.  The  scene  at  Rothesay  Pier,  in  the 
height  of  the  season,  is  one  of  great  hustle  and  liveliness.  The 
ruins  of  Rothesay  Castle  (adm.  free)  date  from  the  14th  century. 
The  eldest  son  of  the  reigning  monarch  of  Great  Britain  hears  the 
title  of  Duke  of  Rothesay.  Good  view  from  Barone  Hill  (530  ft.). 
Mountstuart,  a  fine  huilding,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Bute,  is 
5  M.  to  the  S.E.  Ahout  2  M.  (tramway  2d.)  to  the  N.  of  Rothesay 
lies  the  village  of  Port  Bannatyne  (Crown ;  Hydropathic,  well 
spoken  of),  where  cheaper  lodgings  may  he  had. 

The  Columha  now  turns  to  the  N.W.  and  threads  the  pictur- 
esque *Kyles  of  Bute,  the  narrow  strait  separating  the  N.  end  of 
Bute  from  the  mainland.  To  the  right  stretch  Lochs  Striven  and 
Ridden.  Stations:  Colintraive  (for  Glendaruel,  8  M.)  and  Tighna- 
hruaich.  Rounding  Ardlamont  Point,  the  steamer  enters  Loch  Fyne 
(famous  for  its  herrings),  while  the  Arran  steamer  ('Ivanhoe',  p.  491) 
continues  its  voyage  southwards.  From  the  next  station,  Tarhert 
(Tarhert  Hotel),  a  fine  view  is  ohtained  of  the  Mts.  of  Arran  to  the 
S. ;  to  the  N. ,  view  of  Loch  Fyne,  with  the  twin-peaks  of  Ben 
Cruachan  in  the  distance. 

From  Tarbert  a  coach  runs  down  the  Mull  of  Cantyre  to  Campheltown 
(p.  492;  35  M.,  fare  lOs.)-  Another  coach  plies  to  (1  M.)  the  head  of  West 
Loch  Tarhert,  whence  a  steamer  sails  on  Mon.  and  Thurs.  to  Port  Askaig 
(Hotel)  and  daily,  except  Mon.  and  Thurs.,  to  Port  Ellen  (White  Hart; 
Islay)  on  the  island  of  Islay  (through-fares  from  Glasgow  12a.  6d.,  5«.). 
Bridgend  (Hotel)  is  a  good  centre  from  which  to  explore  Islay.  From  Port 
Askaig  a  ferry  plies  to  (1/2  M.)  the  island  of  Jura,  the  Paps  of  which 
(2400-2570  ft.)  command  good  views. 

Beyond  Tarhert  the  vessel  steams  up  a  small  arm  of  Loch  Fyne 
called  Loch  Gilp,  and  at  ahout  1  p.  m,  reaches  — 

80  M.  Ardrishaig  (Ardrishaig  Hotel ;  Albion) ,  where  the  Co- 
lumha is  quitted  for  the  'Linnet',  a  small  steamer  on  the  Crinan 
Canal. 

Lochgilphead  (Argyll;  Star),  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Ardrishaig,  is  frequented 
by  summer  visitors.  A  coach  runs  hence  daily  to  (23  M.,  6s.)  Kilmelfort 
(p.  500).  —  For  Inveraray,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Fyne,  see  p.  492. 

Feom  Ardrishaig  to  Oban  via  Loch  Awe,  6  hrs.  A  coach  starts  in 
summer  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamers  for  (16  M.)  Ford,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
romantic  *Loch  Awe  (23  M.  long,  IV2  M.  wide).  A  steamer  sails  down 
the  loch,  the  finest  scenery  on  which  is  at  the  N.  end,  passing  numerous 
islands,  on  several  of  which  are  ruined  castles  and  monasteries.  From 
Port  Sonachan  (Hotel),  4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Claaich  (p.  502),  there  is  a  ferry 
to  Taiichreggan  (Hotel) ,  whence  a  coach  runs  to  (8  M.)  Taiinuilt  (p.  502). 
As  the  steamer  proceeds  the  finely-shaped  Ben  Cruachan  (3610  ft.)  comes 
into  sight  to  the  N.  —  At  Loch  Awe  Station  (p.  502)  we  join  the  railway 
to  Oban.     Farther  to  the  N,  is  Kilchurn  Castle. 

The  Crinan  Canal,  which  saves  the  long  and  often  stormy 
voyage  (75  M.)  round  the  Mull  of  Cantyre ,  is  only  9  M.  long;  hut 


to  Oban.  OBAN.  68.  Route.     499 

as  the  steamer  has  to  pass  through  12  locks,  it  takes  2  hrs.  to  the 
passage.  Passengers  may  walk  from  Cairnbaan  (Inn) ,  about  4  M. 
from  Ardrishaig,  and  rejoin  the  steamer  at  the  last  lock.  [In  the  op- 
posite direction  there  is  time  (23/4  hrs.)  to  walk  all  the  way  from 
Crinan  to  Ardrishaig.]  Lochgilphead  (p.  498)  is  passed  on  the 
right.  The  canal  is  pretty,  and  more  like  a  river  than  a  canal.  —  At 
Crinan  the  '■Chevalier'  or  'Grenadier'  is  in  waiting,  on  board  which 
dinner  is  served  at  once.  The  sail  from  Crinan  to  Oban  takes  about 
21/4  hrs.  Soon  after  leaving  Crinan  we  pass  between  Craignish  Point 
and  the  N.  end  of  Jura  (p.  498;  ferry),  which  is  separated  from 
the  little  island  of  Scarba  by  the  tumultuous  Strait  of  Corrie- 
vrechan.  The  next  part  of  the  course  is  sheltered  by  several  is- 
lands ,  but  farther  on  we  are  exposed  for  a  time  to  the  full  swell 
of  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Finally,  however,  we  come  under  the  lee 
of  Mull  (p.  500)  and  enter  the  Sound  of  Kerrera. 

120  m.  Oban.  —  Hotels  (nften  crowded).  Great  Westebn,  *Alexan- 
DEA,  to  the  N.  of  the  pier,  R.  &  A.  5s.  6d.,  B.  3s.,  D.  5s.;  'Station,  Cale- 
donian, near  the  station,  to  the  S.  of  the  pier,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6c?.,  B.  2s.  Qd., 
D.  4s.  6d. ;  Grand,  on  the  hill  hehind  the  town,  with  fine  view;  Columba, 
opposite  the  N.  pier;  Royal,  R.  &  A.  4s.;  King's  Arms,  R.  &  A.  3s.  6d., 
B.  2s.  6d,  D.  8s.  6d. ;  Victoria  Temperance,  Imperial,  'Argyll,  unpre- 
tending. —  Lodgings.  —  Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms. 

Oban.,  a  growing  town  with  5000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated 
in  a  lovely  bay  of  the  Firth  of  Lorn.,  which  is  almost  land-locked  by 
the  island  of  Kerrera  (ferry  4c/.)  and  forms  a  fine  harbour,  generally 
full  of  yachts  and  steamers.  Oban  is  the  starting-point  for  so  many 
excursions  and  the  centre  of  so  much  traffic  by  train  and  steamer, 
that  it  has  been  called  the  'Charing  Cross  of  the  Highlands'.  The 
obelisk  on  Kerrera  is  a  memorial  of  David  Hutcheson,  the  pioneer 
of  steamboat  traffic  in  the  Western  Highlands.  On  a  rocky  pro- 
montory on  the  N.  side  of  the  bay,  IV4  M.  from  the  pier,  rises  Du- 
nolly  Castle ,  the  pretty  grounds  of  which  (open  to  the  public  on 
Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.)  afford  fine  views.  In  the  drive  leading 
to  the  house  is  the  Clach-a-Choin,  or  dog-stone,  to  which  it  is  said 
Fingal  used  to  tie  his  dog  Bran. 

Excursions  from  Oban. 

Walks.  To  the  top  of  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  town  (i  2  hr.);  fine  view 
of  Oban,  Kerrera,  and  Mull.  —  To  Dunstaffnage  Castle, 'd^/2  M.,  coach  twice 
daily  (return-fare  is.Gd.);  also  steumer  (same  fare).  We  follow  the  road 
leading;  from  Oban  towards  the  N.  for  about  8  M.,  and  then  take  a  track  to 
the  left  leading  along  the  shore  past  Dtm/taffnage  Farm.  DunstafiFnage 
Castle  is  associated  with  very  early  Scottish  history,  and  the  'Stone  of 
Destiny',  now  forming  part  of  the  'Coronation  Chair'  in  Westminster  Abbey 
(see  Baedeker  s  London),  was  kept  here  before  its  removal  to  Scone  in  S42. 
In  clear  weather  the  caatle  atTords  a  fine  view  of  Loch  Etive,  the  Mts.  of 
Mull,  etc.     The  lofty  mountain  to  the  E.  is  Ben  Cruachan. 

Longer  Excursions.  1.  'To  Staffa  and  lona  (steamer  there  and  back, 
including  1  hr.  on  each  of  the  islands,  9-10  hrs.;  fare  15s.).  In  line  weather 
this  is  perhaps  the  most  delightful  e.xcursion  on  the  W.  coast  of  Scotland. 
(On  three  days  a  week  the  tour  is  made  in  the  reverse  direction  to  that  de- 
scribed below.)    The  steamer  steers  to  the  N.W.,  between  DunoUy  Castle 

32* 


500     Route  68.  ION  A.  Excursions 

(right)  and  the  island  of  Kirrera  (left).  In  3/4  hr.  we  pass  the  island  of 
Lismore^  at  the  mouth  of  the  large  Loch  Linnhe,  on  the  right,  long  the  seat 
of  the  Bishops  of  Argyll;  the  'Dean  of  Lismore's  Book'  is  a  collection  of 
early  Gaelic  poems  in  MS.,  made  by  James  McGregor,  Dean  of  Lismore, 
at  the  beginning  of  the  i6th  century.  To  the  left  is  Duart,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Sound  of  Mull.,  a  strait  1-2  31.  wide,  separating  the  mountainous  isle 
of  Mull  from  the  mainland.  To  the  right  rises  Ardtornish  Castle.,  pictur- 
esquely placed  at  the  entrance  to  the  pretty  Loch  Aline.  To  the  left,  Aros 
Castle, \noihe.T  ancient  seat  of  the  Lords  of  the  Isles.  1.  Tobermory  (  Western 
Isles  Hotel;  Royal).,  the  chief  place  in  Mull.  The  steamer  now  turns  to 
the  W.  and  faces  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  To  the  left  is  Ardmore  Point.,  to 
the  right  Ardnamurchan  Point.  In  clear  weather  the  islands  of  Muck.,  Eigg, 
and  Rum,  and  the  Mts.  of  Skye  are  seen  to  the  N.;  to  the  W.,  Coll  and  Tiree. . 
Steering  t(j  the  S.,  we  next  pass  the  small  and  rocky  Treshinish  Jsles,  one 
of  which  is  known  from  its  shape  as  Wie,  Dutchman  s  Cap.  To  the  left  is  Gome- 
tray.  Stafta  ('island  of  pillars'),  IV2  M.  in  circumference,  is  now  reached, 
and  the  steamer  stops  to  allow  the  passengers  to  visit  (by  small  boat)  the 
celebrated  '""Fingal's  Cave.  [In  rough  weather,  it  is  impossible  to  enter  the 
cave  by  boat,  and  the  passengers  are  then  landed  at  some  distance  from  it. J 
The  imposing  entrance  to  FingaFs  Cave  is  formed  by  a  series  of  basaltic 
columns ,  20-40  ft.  high ,  bearing  an  arch  that  rises"  to  a  height  of  65  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  cave  penetrates  the  island  for  a  distance  of  over 
200  ft.  Its  floor  consists  of  the  surging  waves,  which  even  on  a  calm  day 
awaken  thunderous  echoes  in  its  dim  recesses.  From  the  so-called  Clam 
Shell  Cave.,  with  its  curiously  contorted  basalt  pillars,  a  flight  of  wooden 
steps  ascends  to  a  cairn  commanding  a  wide  view.  Staffa  possesses  other 
caves  of  great  interest,  especially  to  the  geologist;  but  the  short  halt  of 
the  steamer  does  not  allow  time  to  inspect  them. 

In  about  ^'i  hr.  after  leaving  Staffa  we  reach  lona  or  IcolmUll 
(St.  Columba  Hotel,  Argyll,  unpretending),  an  island  31/2  M.  long  and  1^4  M. 
broad,  separated  from  Mull  by  the  narrow  Sound  of  lona.  We  again 
land  by  a  small  boat.  The  interest  of  the  island  arises  from  the  fact  that 
St.  Columba  landed  here  from  Ireland  in  563  and  began  his  missionary 
labours  in  Scotland.  The  oldest  buildings  now  existing,  however,  date 
from  the  12th  century.  The  guide,  who  meets  us  on  landing,  leads  us  to 
the  Cemetery  of  St.  Oran,  containing  a  great  number  of  ancient  tombs, 
many  of  which  are  said  to  be  those  of  Scottish,  Irish,  and  Norwegian 
kings.  The  'Cathedral,  or  Church  of  St.  Mary,  mainly  in  the  Transition- 
Norman  style,  dates  from  the  13-16th  centuries.  Near  it  is  St.  Martin's 
Cross,  and"  on  the  road  is  Maclean's  Cross,  the  only  survivors  of  the  360 
Runic  Crosses  that  the  island  is  said  to  have  once  possessed,  most  of  them 
having  been  destroyed  by  Puritan  iconoclasts.  Dr.  Johnson  visited  lona  in 
1773  and  was  deeply  impressed  by  its  associations:  'That  man  is  little  to 
be  envied  whose  patriotism  would  not  gain  force  upon  the  plain  of  Mara- 
thon ,   or  whose  piety  would   not  grow  warmer  among  the  ruins  of  lona'. 

The  steamer  now  threads  the  Firth  of  Lorn,  to  the  S.  of  Mull,  with  its 
fine  basaltic  formations,  and  passes  through  Kerrera  Sound  into  Oban  Bay. 

2.  CiRCCLAR  Tour  to  Taynuilt  and  Loch  Awe  (6-7  hrs.;  fares  95., 
Is.  6(7.).  By  train  to  (13  M.)  Taynnilt:  coach  up  Glen  Kant  to  (21  M.)  Tay- 
chreggan  (p.  498),  ferry  to  Port  Sonachan.  and  thence  by  steamer  on  Loch 
Awe  and  railway  (p.  502)  to  Oban.  This  tour,  which  may  be  made  in  the 
opposite  direction,  includes  the  finest  part  of  Loch  Awe. 

3.  Circular  Tour  to  the  Pass  of  Melfort  and  Loch  Awe  (8  hrs.; 
fares  1st.  cl.  17s.,  3rd  cl.  15s.  6c/.;  driver's  fees  2s.).  By  coach  to  (32  M.) 
Ford,  at  the  S.  end  of  Loch  Awe  (p.  498);  thence  by  steamer  and  train  to 
Oban  (see  p.  498).  This  route  may  be  made  in  the  opposite  direction,  but 
Loch  Awe  is  seen  to  greatest  advantage  from  S.  to  N.  The  finest  points  are 
the  "Pass  of  Melfort,  a  picturesque  defile,  the  ruggedness  of  which  is 
softened  bv  its  fine  woods  (pine,  oak,  birch,  mountain-ash,  hazel);  the 
view  of  Lo"ch  Melfort  from  a  lofty  part  of  the  road  ,  about  2  M.  beyond 
(16  M.)  Kilmelfort  (-Cuilfail  Hotel)  and  the  Pass  of  Brander,  a  narrow  and 
gloomy  ravine  (traversed  by  railway).  —  Those  who  have  already  traversed 
the  Pa"s8  of  Brander  by  railway  (p".  502)  may  omit  this  route,    but  should 


from  Oban.  SKYE.  68.  Route.     501 

take  the  coach  to  Kilmerfort  and  back  (fare  about  10«.),  walking  to  the 
above-mentioned  point  of  view.  A  coach  plies  daily  from  Kilmelfort  to 
Lochgilphead  (p.  498;  23  M.,  fare  6«.)- 

4.  "Circular  Tour  by  Glen  Etive,  Loch  Etive  ,  and  Glencoe  to 
Ballachuhsii,  and  back  by  Loch  Linnhe  (10  12  hrs. ;  Ist  cl.  and  cabin 
2l5.)-  Railway  to  (9  M.)  Ach-na-Gloich;  steamer  up  Loch  Etive  to  (15  M.) 
Lochetive  Head;  coach  to  (30  M.)  Ballachulish;  steamer  to  (26  M.)  Ohan. 
This  tour,  which  embraces  some  of  the  deepest  recesses  and  grandest  sce- 
nery in  the  Highlands,  may  be  made  in  either  direction.  It  may,  however, 
be  omitted  by  those  who  are  going  on  through  the  Caledonian  Canal  to  In- 
verness, as  they  may  get  a  good  view  of  Loch  Etive  from  Dunstafl'nage  (see 
p.  499),  and  may  visit  Glencoe  from  Ballachulish  (see  p.  50i).  Refresh- 
ments at  Kinghouse  Inn ,  about  halfway  between  Lochetive  Head  and 
Ballachulish;  dinner  is  provided  on  the"  steamer  from  Ballachulish  to 
Oban. 

5.  From  Oban  to  Callander.  The  direct  route  is  by  railway  (71  M., 
in  3  hrs.;  fares  lis.  lOd.,  5s.  iOrf.,  return  18s.,  9s.-,  see  p.  502).  A  pleasant 
round^may  be  made  by  reversing  the  above  tour  to  Ach-na-Cloich  and  pm- 
ceeding  thence  by  railway  to  Callander  (p.  494)  in  2V2  hrs. ,  via  Crian- 
larich  and  Killin  (p.  502).    Coach  from  Killin  to  Aberfeldy,  see  p.  517. 

6.  From  Oban  to  Loch  Lomond.  Either  as  above,  or  by  railway  (via 
Dalmally,  p.  502;  fares  7s.,  8s.  5'/2d.)  to  Crianlarich,  and  thence  by- coach, 
in  3  hrs.,  or  by  railway  (R.  70)  to  Ardlui  (comp.  p.  493). 

7.  **From  Oban  to  the  Isle  of  Skye  (2-3  days).  Swift  steamers  ply 
on  Tues..  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  via  Tobermoru  (p.  510),  Eigg,  Arisaig  (not  on 
Tues.),  Loch  Scavaig  (Tues.  only),  Armadale.  Glenelg.  Balmacara,  Kyle  Akin 
to  Broadford  (not  on  Tues.)  and  Portree  (16s.).  Thence  they  proceed  to 
Gairloch  (p.  505),  returning  on  Mon,,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  without  calling  at 
Loch  Scavaig.  The  'Claymore'  and  'Clansman  ,>;ail  from  Oban  on  Tues.  and 
Frid.  morning,  see  p.  497.  —  The  best  plan  is  to  take  the  Tues.  steamer 
to  Loch  Scavaig  (see  below),  having  telegraphed  the  day  before  to  the 
landlord  of  the  Sligachan  Hotel  to  send  a  guide  (and  ponies  if  required ; 
advisable  for  ladies)  to  meet  the  steamer.  Those  who  land  at  Broadford 
(Hotel)  should  walk  or  drive  (one-horse  carr.  5s.)  to  (6  M.)  Torrin,  and 
proceed  thence  by  boat  (with  2  rowers  18s.,  with  4  rowers  24s.)  to  the  Spar 
Cave  and  *Loch  Scavaig,  a  wild  and  romantic  arm  of  the  sea  running 
deep  into  the  island.  At  its  inner  end  ,  separated  from  it  by  a  narrow 
neck  of  land,  is  ''Loch  Coruisk,  offering  a  scene  of  solitary  and  savage 
grandeur,  perhaps  not  elsewhere  paralleled  in  the  kingdom.  From  Loch 
Coruisk  we  may  walk  to  the  N.  across  Drumhain  (8(X)  ft.)  and  through  ''Olen 
Sligachan  to  the  (7-8  M.)  "Sligachan  Hotel  (R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  B.  2s.  6ii.,  D  3s. 
6d.),  but  this  is  a  rough  walk  of  3  hrs.;  not  to  be  attempted  after  dusk 
without  a  guide.  Or  we  may  cross  Loch  Scavaig  by  boat  to  Camasunarij 
(better  than  by  the  walking  route,  on  which  a  steady  head  is  necessary 
at  the  point  called  the  'Bad  Step'),  and  follow  the  track  through  Glen  Sli- 
gachan the  whole  way  to  the  hotel  (3  hrs.).  To  the  left  rises  the  graceful 
Scuir-na-Gillean  ('Peak  of  the  Young  Men';  3167  ft.),  and  to  the  right  is 
Blaven  (3042  ft.),  both  summits  of  the  grand  '  Cuchullin  Hills  (pron.  'Coo- 
lin'),  the  impressiveness  of  which  is  heightened  by  the  dark  colour  of  their 
rocks.  From  the  Sligachan  Hotel  we  may  ascend  the  former  in  3  hrs.;  the 
route  is  steep  and  requires  a  steady  head,  but  a  guide  (10-12s.)  is  unnecess- 
ary except  in  misty  weather.  Ladies  should  not  attempt  it,  unless  prepared 
for  considerable  fatigue.  The  'View  from  the  top  is  very  line.  —  From 
Sligachan  a  mail-cart  (2s.  Qd.)  and  an  excursion-brake  (see  below)  plv 
daily  to  (10  M.)  Portree  (Roi/al,  R.  &  A.  4s.  6cf . ;  Portree  Hotel),  the  capital 
of  the  island,  and  the  best  general  centre  for  excursions.  Prince  Charles's 
Cave,  in  the  rocky  coast,  47^  M.  to  the  N.,  has  no  other  interest  than  that 
the  Young  Pretender  lay  there  in  hiding.  Those  who  have  time  should  not 
quit  Portree  ^vithout  a  visit  (1-2  days)  to  the  Storr  Rock  and  the  <^>uiraing, 
perhaps  the  most  striking  rock-scenery  in  Great  Britain.  [In  summer  e.\- 
cursion-brakes  run  daily  from  Portree  "to  Sligachan  (return-fare  5.«.)  and  to 
Uig  (return-fare  8.s.)  and  thence  to  the  Quiraing  (4^.);  see  p.  502.]  The 
Storr  Rock  (2340  ft.),  about  7  M.  to  the  N.,  commands  a  very  line  and  ex- 


502    Route  68.  DALMALLY. 

tensive  view;  the  walk  to  the  top  takes  at  least  3  hrs.  A  walk  thence  of 
4  hrs.  more,  over  dreary  moorland,  brings  us  to  the  *Q,uiraing,  a  grassy 
plateau  enclosed  by  lofty  cliffs  and  pinnacles  of  the  most  fantastic  form  and 
disposition.  Those  who  reach  the  Quiraing  too  late  to  go  on  to  Tig  may 
sleep  at  the  Steinscholl  Inn,  2  M.  to  the  S.,  which  we  passed  on  our  way. 
iSext  morning  we  walk  across  the  island  (2V2  hrs.)  to  Vig  (L  ig  Hotel, 
well  spoken  of,  R.  &  A.  35.  6(1)  on  the  W.  coast,  and  return  thence  by 
carriage  (ordered  beforehand  at  Portree)  or  by  coach  to  (2'/4  hrs.)  Portree 
(on  foot  41/2  hrs.).  Those  whose  time  is  limited  should  drive  from  Por- 
tree to  Uig,  walk  (or  drive)  to  the  Quiraing  and  back ,  and  drive  back 
to  Portree  (in  all  8-9  hra.),  leaving  the  Storr  Rock  unvisited.  —  The 
steamboat-journey  from  Portree  to  Uban  takes  14  hrs.;  or  we  may  take 
the  steamer  from  Portree  to  (4  hrs.)  Strome  Ferry  (p.  519;  fares  65.  8cZ..  3s. 
4rf.),   and  proceed  thence  by  railway,  via  Dingwall,    to  Inverness  (p.  504). 

Steam  Yachts  leave  Oban  at  intervals  in  the  season  for  a  week  or 
two's  excursion  (apply  at  M'Gregor's  Coach  Office). 

From  Oban  to  Glasgow,  116  M.,  Caledonian  Kailwav  in  41/4-68/4  brs. 
(fares  135.  2fZ.,  7s.  4V2d. ;  to  Edinburgh,  123  M.,  IBs.  2d.,  9s.  lOd.).  The  West 
Highland  Line  of  the  N.B.R.  (R.  70)  is  an  alternative  railway  route.  On  leav- 
ing Oban  the  train  sweeps  round  to  the  N.,  passes  Dunstaffnage  (p.  499)  on 
the  left,  and  skirts  Loch  Etive  (p.  501).  Beyond  (13  M.)  Taynuilt  (Inn)  it 
threads  the  wild  Pass  of  Awe  and  the  Pass  of  Brander  (p.  5C6),  at  the  foot 
of  Ben  Cruachan.  —  22  M.  Loch  Awe  Station  (*Hotel,  R.  &  A.  4s.),  see 
p.  498.  —  25  M.  Dalmally  (Hotel)  ,  at  the  entrance  to  the  beautiful  Vale 
of  Glenorchy,  3  M.  from  the  K.E,  end  of  Loch  Awe.  Frum  Dalmally  we 
may  walk  or  drive,  via  (6  JI.)  Cladich  (p.  492),  to  (10  M.)  Inveraray  (see 
p.  492).  —  38  M.  Tyndrum  (Eoyal  Hotel).  At  (42  M.)  Crianlarich  {.Hotel, 
R.  &  A.  85.  6d.,  B.  25.)  the  Caledonian  and  N.B.  R.  lines  meet.  A  coach 
(4s.)  runs  twice  daily,  in  IY2  hr.,  to  Ardlui ,  at  the  upper  end  of  Loch 
Lomond  (p.  493);  and  those  who  have  not  yet  visited  that  beautiful  loch 
may  complete  their  journey  by  this  route.  —  53  31.  Killin  Junction  commands 
a  tine  view  of  Loch  Tay  (see  p.  517).  The  train  then  de^rcends  the  wild 
Glen  Ogle  and  passes  the  head  of  Loch  Earn  (station;  see  p.  510).  It  next 
skirts  "Loch  Lubnaig,  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water,  and  threads  the  Pass 
of  Leny,  where  Ben  Ledi  (p.  494)  towers  to  the  right.  —  71  BI.  Callander, 
and  thence  to  Glasgow  (or  Edinburgh)^  see  R.  66. 


69.  From  Oban  to  Inverness  by  the  Caledonian  Canal. 

98  M.  Steamee  daily  in  IIV2  hrs.  (6  a.m.  to  5.30  p.m.  ;  if  a  later  boat 
be  taken,  the  night  may  be  spent  at  Ban  a  vie  or  Fort  William).  Fares  22s., 
lOs.  6(Z.,  return  33s.,  16s. 

After  leaving  Oban,  the  steamer  touches  at  Appin,  whence  there 
is  a  ferry  to  Lismore  (p.  500),  and  then  sails  through  Loch  Linnhe 
to  (IV2  tr.)  Ballacliulish  C^Ballachulish  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  As.  6d. ; 
Loch  Leven;  Temperance),  a  charming  excursion  in  fine  weather. 
The  village  is  grandly  situated  at  the  entrance  of  Loch  Leven,  an 
arm  of  the  sea  stretching  towards  the  E.  The  Ballachulish  slate 
quarries,  which  have  been  worked  for  two  centuries,  are  the  largest 
in  Scotland. 

At  Ballachulish  coaches  meet  the  steamer  to  convey  passengers  to  the 
wild  Glencoe,  the  scene  of  the  atrocious  massacre  of  the  unsuspecting  and 
hospitable  Macdonalds  on  14th  Feb.,  1692,  by  royal  troops.  The  drive  there 
and  back  (18  M.),  including  a  stay  of  V2  br.  at  Ossian''s  Cave,  the  finest 
part  of  the  glen,  takes  4  hrs.  (fare  3s.). 

The  steamer  now  crosses  Loch  Linnhe,  which  marks  the  bound- 
ary between  Argyllshire  and  Inverness-shire,  calls  at  Ardgour,  and 


FORT  WILLIAM.  69.  Route.     503 

passes  through  the  Corran  Narrows.  At  the  head  of  the  locli  (16  M. 
or  1  hr.  from  Ballachulish)  lies  — 

Fort  William  (* Caledonian ,  R.  &  A.  is.,  B.  2s.  QcL,  D.  4?.; 
Alexandra,  R.  &  A.  3s.  3d.;  Station,  new;  Chevalier;  Waverley 
Temperance ;  Ben  Nevis,  well  spoken  of),  formerly  the  key  of  the 
Highlands.  The  fort ,  originally  erected  by  General  Monk,  was  re- 
built under  William  III.  Fort  William  is  a  station  on  the  Highland 
Railway  (R.  70  j.  Passengers  for  Inverness  usually  land  here  and 
proceed  to  Banavie  (see  below)  to  join  the  canal-steamer.  Some- 
times, however,  the  steamer  goes  on  to  (1/4  M.)  Corpach  (Hotel), 
1  M.  from  Banavie,  to  which  a  coach  plies  (free). 

*Ben  Nevis  (4406  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  the  British  Islands, 
may  be  ascended  from  Fort  William  in  2V2-3  hrs.  by  a  good  pony-track. 
Those  who  use  this  track,  which  begins  at  (2  M.)  the  farm  oi  Achitiiee,  at 
the  entrance  to  Glen  Nevis,  are  expected  to  purchase  a  guide-ticket  {is.:, 
for  pony  35.),  the  proceeds  of  which  go  to  keep  the  path  in  repair.  Guide 
(unnecessary)  10s. ;  pony  and  attendant  20s.  The  *Vie\v  from  the  top  is 
line,  especially  on  the  X.E.,  where  there  is  a  precipitous  descent  of  1450  ft. 
At  the  top  are  dj\  Observatory,  established  in  1883,  and  a  Temperance  Inn 
(Tea,  R.,  &  B.  10s.,  luncheon  3s.).  —  The  ascent  may  also  be  made  from 
Banavie  (see  below)  in  3-8V2  hrs. 

A  coach  (fare  11.?.)  plies  daily  in  summer  in  7  hrs.  from  Fort  William 
via  Banavie  to  (41  M.)  Arisaig,  passing  Loch  Eil;  flSM.)  Prince  Charles's 
Monument,  in  Glenfinnan  at  the  head  oi  Loch  Shiel  (Stagehoiise  Inn),  where 
the  prince  raided  his  standard  on  Aug.  19th,  1745;  Loch  Eilt;  (28  M.)  Kin- 
loch  Aylort  (Hotel);  Loch-na- Nuagh ;  and  (38  M.)  Arisaig  Inn.  41  BI.  Ari- 
saig Pier  (p.  501). 

Banavie  {Banavie  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  4s.,  B.  3s.,  D.  63.)  ,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Caledonian  Canal,  is  the  present  terminus  of  the  West 
Highland  Railway  [R.  70).  The  Caledonian  Canal ,  62  M.  long, 
traverses  the  'Great  Glen  of  Scotland'  and  consists  of  a  chain  of 
lakes  (Lochs  Lochy,  Oich,  Ness,  and  Dochfour),  united  by  artificial 
channels. 

As  the  canal-steamer  leaves  Banavie  we  have  a  good  view,  to  the 
right,  of  Ben  Nevis.  After  7  M.  we  reach  Gairlochy,  with  the  first 
lock,  and  enter  the  picturesque  Loch  Lochy  (10  M.).  On  the  east 
bank  is  Invergloy  Hotel;  on  the  W.  is  Achnacarry  Castle  (Cameron 
of  Lochiel) ,  beside  which  the  Black  Mile  Pass  leads  under  dense 
foliage  from  Loch  Lochy  to  Loch  Arkaig.  At  the  N.  end  of  Loch 
Lochy  are  the  locks  at  Laggan,  almost  immediately  succeeded  by 
the  charming  little  *Loch  Oich  (5  M.).  To  the  left  is  the  romantic 
Invergarry  Castle,  from  which  a  fine  route  leads  through  Glen  Shiel 
to  the  W.  coast  (to  Balmacara ,  on  Loch  Alsh,  called  at  by  the 
Oban  and  Gairloch  steamers,  50  M. ;  thence  to  Kyle  Akin  Ferry, 
for  Skye,  6  M. ;  comp.  p.  517).  Between  the  lower  end  of  Loch 
Oich  and  (5  M.)  Fort  Augustus  (Lovat  Arms)  are  several  looks, 
which  the  steamer  takes  IY2  hr.  to  pass  through,  so  that  this  part 
of  the  journey  may  be  performed  on  foot.  The  fort  has  now  given 
place  to  a  modern  E.E.  Benedictine  Abbey.  Most  of  the  locks  are  with- 
in 2  M.  of  Fort  Augustus;  and  those  who  do  not  care  to  walk  the 
whole  5  M.  may  disembark  here  while  the  steamer  passes  the  locks. 


504     Route  69.  INVERNESS. 

Fort  Augustus  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  Loch.  Ness  (24  M.  long), 
the  scenery  of  which  is  less  varied  than  that  of  the  lochs  already 
passed.  Invermoriston  (Hotel)  is  another  starting-point  for  the  route 
through  Glen  Shiel,  uniting  with  the  above-mentioned  at  (25  M.) 
Clunie.  On  the  right  hank,  21/4  hrs.  from  Fort  Augustus,  is  Foyers 
(Hotel),  about  1  M.  from  which  is  the  *Fall  of  Foyers,  90  ft.  in 
height,  probably  the  finest  waterfall  in  Great  Britain,  but  not  im- 
proved by  the  aluminium  factory  recently  established  in  the  vicin- 
ity. Higher  up  is  another  fall  (30  ft.  high).  The  steamboat-pass- 
enger has  not  time  to  visit  these  falls.  Opposite  Foyers  rises 
Mealvourvonie  (2285  ft.).  —  From  the  next  pier,  at  Inverarigaig, 
the  steamer  crosses  the  loch,  passes  the  picturesque  XJrquhart  Castle^ 
and  touches  at  the  Temple  Pier  at  Drumnadrochit  (Hotel,  V2  M.  from 
the  pier).  Beyond  Ahriachan  (new  pier)  we  enter  Loch  Dochfour, 
the  N.  bay  of  Loch  Ness.  The  steamer  halts  at  Muirtown,  IY4  M. 
from  Inverness,  and  is  met  by  the  hotel-omnibuses. 

Inverness.  —  Hotels.  ^Caledonian  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from  5s.,  D.  4s. 
6d.;  Station  (R.  &  A.  4s.  6<f.),  Royal,  Imperial,  all  close  to  the  railway- 
station;  ViCTOKiA,  Palace  (R.  &  A.  4s.  6d.,  D.  4s.,  6d.),  hiih.  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  river;  Waverlet  Tempeeance;  Muirtown  Hotel,  small, 
at  the  pier,  see  ahove. 

Inverness^  the  'Capital  of  the  Highlands',  an  old  town  with 
19,200  inhab.,  situated  at  the  point  where  the  Ness  enters  the 
Beauly  Firth^  is  the  great  travellers'  centre  for  the  N.  of  Scotland, 
as  Oban  is  for  the  W.  coast.  The  chief  points  of  interest  are  in- 
cluded in  the  following  walk.  Starting  from  the  station,  we  pass 
through  Union  St.  and  Church  St.  to  the  (3  min.)  Town  Hall,  a 
modern  Gothic  building,  in  front  of  which,  under  the  fountain,  is 
the  Clach-na-Cudden,  or  'stone  of  the  tubs',  regarded  as  the  palla- 
dium of  Inverness.  We  thence  ascend  to  the  (3  min.)  County 
Buildings  and  Prison ,  a  castellated  building  on  a  hill,  on  which 
stood  the  castle  of  Macbeth,  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  the 
scene  of  King  Duncan's  murder  (comp.  pp.  505,  511).  Culduthel 
Road  leads  on  hence  to  (I/4  M.)  Godtman's  Walk,  a  narrow  terrace- 
path  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and  town.  Thence  we 
return  to  the  castle  enclosure,  descend  to  the  river,  and  walk 
along  the  bank  to  (25  min.)  the  Islands ,  a  favourite  promenade, 
resembling  the  Margaretheninsel  at  Buda-Pesth,  and  connected 
with  both  banks  by  bridges.  We  now  cross  to  the  left  bank  and 
return  towards  Inverness,  passing  (10  min.)  the  Northern  Infirmary 
and  (5  min.)  the  *Catliedral  of  St.  Andrew,  a  handsome  Dec. 
building,  erected  in  1866-69 ;  the  interior  is  adorned  with  mono- 
lithic granite  columns  and  stained  glass.  We  may  here  diverge  to 
the  left,  soon  again  turning  to  the  left,  and  visit  (1/4  hr.)  Tom- 
nahurich  ('hill  of  the  fairies') ,  a  hill  laid  out  as  a  cemetery,  and 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  'rose-red'  town  of  Inverness.  From 
the  cathedral  we  return,  across  the  Suspension  Bridge,  to  the  (5  min.) 
station.    Another  walk  may  be  taken  in  the  opposite  direction  to 


LOCH  MAREE.  69.  Route.     505 

Cromwelfs  Fort^  built  by  Cromwell  in  1652-57,    near  the  mouth 
of  the  Ness,  and  affording  a  view  of  the  Beauly  and  Moray  Firths. 

Excursions  from  Inverness. 

To  Craig  Phadi'ig,  a  hill  2V2  M.  to  the  W.,  commanding  fine  views, 
and  with  traces  of  a  vitrified  fort.  —  To  Culloden  Moor.  5  M.  to  the  S.E. 
(one-horse  carr.  there  and  hack  10«.  Qd.),  where  Prince  Charles  Stuart,  the 
Pretender,  was  defeated  on  16th  April,  1746.  —  The  Fall  of  Foyers  (p.  504) 
may  also  he  visited  by  carriage  from  Inverness  (18  M. ;  picturesque  road; 
carr.  and  pair  there  and  back  ca.  30«.).  —  To  Beauly  and  the  Falls  of  Kil- 
morack.,  see  p.  519. 

To  Loch  Maree  and  Gairloch,  T7  M.,  in  7  hrs.  (fares  1st  cl.  16s.  9d., 
3rd  cl.  13s.).  From  Inverness  via  Dingwall  to  (47  M.)  Achnasheen .,  see 
p.  519.  At  Achnasheen  (lunch  at  the  hotel,  2s. -25.  6f?.)  we  change  from  the 
railway  (which  goes  to  Strome  Ferry  on  the  W.  coast,  see  below)  to  the 
coach.' —  The  road  to  Loch  Maree  skirts  the  small  Loch  Rosque  and  tra- 
A'erses  moorlands.  10  M.  (IV2  hr.'s  drive)  Einlochewe  (''Hotel,  R.  &  A.  4s.), 
whence  a  mail-cart  plies  to  (12  M.)  Loch  Torridon  (fare  3s.).  I21/2  M.  Rhu 
Nohar ^  at  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  lake  (steamer,  see  below).  *Loch 
Maree  is  a  wild  and  romantic  lake,  18  31.  long,  surrounded  by  lofty  moun- 
tains. To  the  N.  rises  Ben  Slioch  (3216  ft.),  ascended  from  Kinlochewe  in 
7-8  hrs.  (there  and  back).  About  halfwav  down  the  S.  side  of  the  loch  is 
the  (19  M.;  lV2hr.)  'Loch  Maree  Hotel  (boats  for  hire),  at  Talladale.  About 
2  M.  farther  on,  the  coach  quits  the  lake  and  proceeds  tn  the  W.,  through 
Kerrydale  to  (29  M.)  Gairloch  {Hotel,  high  charges  and  often  crowded),  at 
the  mouth  of  Flowerdale,  on  the  W.  coast.  —  Travellers  may  leave  the 
coach  at  Rhu  Aohar  (see  above)  and  proceed  by  small  steamer  to_  Tollie., 
at  the  W.  end  of  Loch  Maree,  whence  another  coach  plies  to  (5V2  M.) 
Gairloch.  —  The  excursion  to  Loch  Maree  may  be  made  part  of  either  of  the 
following  pleasant  tours  (2-3  days)  from  Inverness:  1.  Train  to  Strome 
Ferry  i'^.  519)  in  4  hrs.;  steamer  via  Broadford,  Plockton,  and  Raasay  to 
(4  hrs.)  Portree  in  Skye  and  back  to  (2  hrs.)  Gairloch  on  the  mainland; 
coach  and  steamer  on  Loch  Maree  to  (4 1/2  hrs.)  Achnasheen ;  train  to  (2V2hrs.) 
Inverness  (or  in  reverse  direction).  2.  By  rail  to  Strome  Ferry  in  4  hrs.; 
steamer  to  Stornoway^  in  the  Isle  of  Lewis,  and  thence  to  Ullapool  (p.  522), 
on  the  W.  coast,  about  20  M.  to  the  N.  of  Loch  Maree;  thence  by  coach 
to  (33  M.)  Garve  (p.  519),  on  the  railway.  —  Stornoway  (Imperial;  Lews; 
Royal),  the  chief  place  in  the  Hebrides,  with  about  3000  inhab.,  is,  per- 
haps, scarcely  so  fascinating  in  reality  as  in  the  pages  of  William  Black, 
but  is  worth  visiting  by  those  who  enjoy  steamboat-sailing  and  wild  rocky 
scenery.  It  may  also  be  reached  by  steamer  from  Gla^goic  (40  hrs.),  Oban^ 
Portree^  Gairloch,  Poolewe,  Loch  Inver,  etc. 

From  Inverness  to  Aberdeen,  109  M.,  railway  in  5  hrs.  (fares  18«.  l(f., 
9s.  0V2<^.)-  —  On  leaving  Inverness  a  fine  view  is  obtained,  to  the  left,  of 
the  Moray  Firth.  3  M.  Culloden,  to  the  S.  of  which  lies  Culloden  Moor 
(see  above).  —  15  M.  Nairn  (J/oj-i/ie,  large,  facing  the  sea;  Anderson's), 
finely  situated  on  the  Moray  Firth,  much  frequented  as  a  sea-bathing 
resort,  and  for  its  dry,  mild  climate.  Good  golf-links.  About  6  M.  to  the 
S.  is  Cawdor  Castle,  the  supposed  scene  of  the  murder  of  Duncan  in  Jiacbeth. 
The  Castle,  however,  dates  only  from  the  middle  of  the  15th  century.  — 
25  M.  Forres  (/?oya/  Station;  Charleson's,  in  the  town;  Cluny  Hill  Hydropathic, 
1  31.  from  the  station),  the  junction  of  the  Highland  railway  to  Grantown, 
Kingussie.  Blair  Atholl ,  and  Perth  (comp.  p.  518).  —  About  1  31.  to 
the  ^'.E.  is  Sweno's  Stone,  a  pillar  about  20  ft.  high,  supposed  to  have  been 
erected  about  1014  to  commemorate  the  expulsion  of  the  Danes,  and 
covered  with  carvings  of  figures  and  other  objects.  A  drive  may  be 
taken  to  '-Findhorn  Glen.  —  About  3  31.  beyond  Forres  we  pass  on  the  left 
the  ruins  of  Kinloss  Abbey,  founded  in  UoO.  Frcm  (32  31.)  Alves  a  branch- 
line  diverges  to  Buryhead  and  Hopeman.  —  37  31.  Elgin  (Station  Hotel;  Gor- 
don Arms:  Palace),  a  townof  78(0  inhab.,  with  a  fine  '  Catl(edral,  chietly  in  the 
E.E.  style,  founded  in  1224  and  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in  1390.  It  is  very  richly 


506     Route  70.  HELENSBURGH.  From  Glasgow 

decorated  (exquisite  tracery),  but  is  to  a  great  extent  in  ruina.  The  best- 
preserved  parts  are  tlie  chapter-bouse  and  the  two  W.  towers.  The  central 
tower,  200  ft.  high,  fell  in  1711.  The  ruins  of  the  bishop's  palace  and  the 
Greyfriars'  Monastery  are  also  interesting.  An  excursion  may  be  made  to 
(6  M.)  Phiscarden  Abbey,  a  Cistercian  foundation  of  1230.  Elgin  is  the 
junction  of  railways  to  Lossiemouth,  to  Banff  (Fife  Arms),  via  Buckie,  Port- 
soy, and  TiUynaught  Junction,  and  to  Rothes  and  Boat  of  Garten  (p.  518). 
—  From  (43  M.)  OrhJiston  Junction  a  branch  runs  to  (3  M.)  Fochabers  (Gor- 
don Arms;  Grant  Arms),  beautifully  situated  among  pine-woods  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Spey.  Adjacent  is  Gordon  Castle,  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Richmond  and  Gordon."  55  M.  Keith  (Gordon  Arms),  the  junction  of  the 
Highland  and  North  of  Scotland  Railways.  67  M.  Evntly;  87  M.  Inverain- 
say  Junction ,  for  Turriff  and  Macduff  (Banff)  ;  92  M.  Inverurie;  102  M. 
Dyce  Junction,  for  (2  hrs.)  Peterhead  and  Fraserburgh. 

[Peterhead  (Royal),  a  town  with  12,195  inhab.,  is  an  important  port  for 
the  herring-fishery  and  possesses  quarries  of  red  granite.  It  was  the  birth- 
place of  Marshal  Keith  (d.  1758),  of  whom  a  statue,  presented  by  King 
William  I.  of  Prussia  in  1868,  stands  in  front  of  the  town-hall.  —  Fraser- 
burgh is  also  an  important  fishing-station,  with  a  large  harbour.] 

109  M.  Aberdeen,  see  p.  514. 

From  Inverness  to  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow,  by  railway  via  Perth,  see 
RR.  72,  66. 


70.  From  Glasgow  to  Fort  William  (Inverness). 

1221/2  M.  West  Highland  Railway,  in  5  hrs.  (fares  I65.  Id.,  95.  i^/zd.); 
trains  start  from  the  Queen  Street  (High  Level)  Station  (p.  486).  Through 
carriages  are  run  in  connection  with  this  route  from  Edinburgh  (fares 
2I5.  Id.,  lis.  ly^d.)  and  from  London  (King's  Cross)  by  the  morning  ex- 
press. —  This  line  is  continued  by  a  branch  to  (124  M.)  Banavie. 

From  Glasgow  to  (16  M.)  Dumbarton,  see  p.  493.  The  railway 
continues  to  skirt  the  Clyde,  leaving  the  Balloch  line  on  the  right. 
—  I6I/2M.  Dalreoch.  Near  [1972^0  Cardross  once  stood  Cardross 
Castle,  in  which  Robert  Bruce  died  in  1329.  23  M.  Craigendoran. 
Craigendoran  Pier  is  an  important  starting-point  for  steamers  in  con- 
nection with  the  N.B.R.  to  Dunoon  (where  passengers  join  the  Oban 
steamer;  comp.  p.  497").  Rothesay,  Arran,  etc.  — 24^/4  M.  Helens- 
burgh (Queen's ;  Imperial),  a  favourite  watering-place,  is  pleasantly 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oareloch,  and  is  laid  out  with  the  mathe- 
matical regularity  of  an  American  city.  On  the  esplanade  is  an 
obelisk  in  memory  of  Henry  Bell  (1767-1830),  who  in  1812  launched 
the  'Comet',  the  first  steam  vessel  on  the  Clyde.  —  Steamers  ply 
hence  to  Greenock,  Gourock,  Dunoon,  Rothesay,  etc.  ;  to  Gareloch 
Head,  see  p.  491.  —  26V2  M.  Row  (pronounced  'rue').  —  29V2  M. 
Shandon,  with  a  large  hydropathic  establishment,  pleasantly  sur- 
rounded by  private  grounds.  31^/4  M.  Gareloch  Head  (Hotel)  oc- 
cupies a  fine  situation  at  the  head  of  the  loch. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  isthmus  between  Gareloch  and  Loch 
Long  (p.  491),  and  skirts  the  E.  bank  of  the  latter.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  loch  rises  Ben  Arthur  or  The  Cobbler  (2891  ft.), 
beyond  which  is  Ben  Imt  (3318  ft.).  The  station  of  (421/4  M.)  Ar- 
rochar  ^-  Tarbet  is  situated  between  these  two  places  (pp.  491,  493) 
on  the  isthmus  between  Loch  Long  and  Loch  Lomond  (p.  493). 


to  Fort  William.  CRIANLARICH.  70.  Ronte.    507 

Coach  to  Inveraray  through  Glencroe,  see  p.  492.  —  The  railway 
runs  close  by  the  W.  bank  of  Loch  Lomond,  commanding  beautiful 
views.  On  the  opposite  shore  rises  Ben  Lomond  (p.  493).  —  We 
cross  the  Inveruglas  Water,  which  descends  from  Loch  Sloy.  lying 
to  our  left  between  Ben  Vane  (3004  ft.)  and  Ben  Voirlich  [3092  ft.). 
— ■  501/4  M.  Ardlui,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Lomond,  see  p.  493. 

The  line  now  quits  the  loch  and  ascends  Glen  Falloch,  with  a 
succession  of  fine  mountain  views.  To  the  right,  at  some  distance, 
tower  Ben  A' an  (_3827  ft.)  and  Ben  More  (3843  ft.).  —  59  M. 
Crianlarich  has  also  a  station  on  the  Caledonian  lineto  Oban  (p.  502). 
Coach  to  Ardlui,  see  p.  493.  —  We  here  enjoy  a  view  of  Glen 
Uochart,  to  the  right,  before  bending  to  the  N.W.  into  Strath  Fil- 
lan.  64  M.  Tyndrum  (Royal  Hotel)  has  another  station  on  the  Cale- 
donian line  (p.  602).  —  71 V2  M.  Bridge  of  Orchy  (Inverornan  Hotel, 
3  M.  to  the  AV.).  A  coach  (fares  12s.)  plies  hence  daily  via  (13  M.) 
Kingshouse  and  through  Glencoe  (p.  502)  to  (29  M.)  Ballachulish 
(p.  502).  —  We  next  pass  Loch  Tulla  (on  the  left)  and  soon  enter 
the  wide  and  desolate  Rannoch  Moor.  Schiehallion  (p.  618)  comes 
into  sight  in  the  distance  to  the  right.  From  (871/4  M.)  Rannoch 
we  cross  the  Gauer  Water,  between  Loch  Lydoch  on  the  left,  and 
Loch  Laggan,  on  the  right. 

A  coach  runs  daily  from  Rannoch  Station,  along  the  N.  bank  of  Loch 
Rannoch.,  to  (18  M.)  Kinloch  Rannoch  (fare  Is.  Qd.)  and  thence  via  Tummel 
Bridge  and  Killiecrankie  (p.  518)  to  (39  31.)  Pitlochry  (p.  517;  fare  15s.). 

Farther  on  we  skirt  the  E.  bank  of  Loch  Treig  and  halt  at  the 
station  of  (10472  M.)  Tulloch,  in  Glen  Spean,  whence  a  coach  runs 
twice  daily  to  (371/2  M.)  Kingussie  (p.  518),  on  the  Highland  Rail- 
way (5  hrs.  ;  fare  i2s.  6d.).  —  IIO1/4  M.  Roy  Bridge,  to  the  N.  of 
which  opens  Glen  Roy  with  its  'Parallel  Roads'.  To  the  left  rises  the 
huge  mass  of  Ren  Nevis  (p.  503).  —  113'/2  M.  Spean  Bridge  (Hotel). 

I22V2M.  Fort  William,  see  p.  503.  Hence  to  Inverness  by  the 
Caledonian  Canal,  see  R.  69. 

The  line  ia  continued  by  a  branch  to  (124  M.)  5«nrtt'tc  (p.  503),  beyond 
which  it  is  being  prolonged  towards  Mallaig,  on  the  coast  to  the  N.  of 
Arisaig  (pp.  501,  503). 

71.   From  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen. 

Of  the  alternative  routes  described  below  the  third  is  much  the  finest 
and  should  be  preferred  to  the  direct  railway  routes  by  all  who  have 
suflicient  time  at  their  disposal.  —  Steamer  from  Leith.  se'e  p.  475. 

a.    North  British  Railway,  vifi,  the  Forth  Bridge  and  Fifeshire. 

131  M,  Railway  in  3VMV2  lirs.  (fares  2l«..  9«.  S<i.).  This  ia  the  shortest 
and  most  direct  route  from  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen. 

Ec/m6wr^/i  (Waverley  Station),  see  p.  474.  I'/a  M.  Haymarket. 
The  line  to  Glasgow  (R.  66)  diverges  to  the  left  near  ("31/2  M.) 
Corstorphine.  —  9'/2  M.  Dalmeny,  where  the  Glasgow  trains  join 
ours  (see  p.  485),  is  the  station  for  South  Queens  ferry  (p.  485), 

The  train  now  crosses  the   *Forth  Bridge,   pronounced  by 


508     Route  77.  ST.  ANDREWS.  From  Edinburgh 

M.  Eiffel  'the  greatest  construction  of  the  world'  and  undoubtedly 
the  most  striking  feat  yet  achieved  by  engineering  in  bridge- 
building.    Fine  views  up  and  down  the  river. 

This  wonderful  bridge,  the  total  length  of  which,  including  the  ap- 
proaches, is  2765  yds.,  was  begun  in  1883  and  finished  in  March,  1890,  at  a 
cost  of  over  3,00(J,000?.  It  is  built  on  the  'cantilever  and  central  girder  sys- 
tem', the  principle  of  which  is  that  of  'stable  equilibrium',  its  own  weight 
helping  to  maintain  it  more  firmlv  in  position.  Each  of  the  m;>in  spans, 
170U-1710  ft.  in  length  (100  ft.  longer  than  that  of  Brooklyn  Bridge),  is 
formed  of  two  cantilevers,  each  6S0  ft.  long,  united  by  a  girder  3cO  ft. 
long.  The  steel  towers  from  which  the  cantilevers  spring  are  3(j0  ft.  high 
(not  much  lower  than  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's)  and  are  supported  on  granite 
piers,  that  in  the  middle  resting  on  the  small  island  of  Inchgarvie.  The 
clear  headway  at  high  water  is  151  ft. ;  the  deepest  foundations  are  88  ft. 
below  high  water.  The  total  weight  of  metal  in  the  bridge  is  50,C00  tons, 
or  five  times  as  much  as  that  of  the  Britannia  Bridge  (p.  293).  The 
designers  and  constructors  of  the  bridge  were  Sir  John  Fowler  and  Sir 
Benjamin  Baker. 

11 1/4  M.  North  Queensferry  lies  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Forth 
Bridge.  13V4  M.  Inverkdthing  (Hotel)  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to 
the  N.  to  Dunfermline  (for  Perth,  Stirling,  etc.  ;  see  R.  72).  The 
Aberdeen  train  runs  to  the  E.  and  skirts  the  pleasant  grounds  of 
Donibristle,  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Moray,  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  estuary 
of  the  Forth.  —  17'/2  M.  Aberdour  (Greig's),  a  favourite  little  sea- 
bathing place,  with  an  old  castle  and  the  ruins  of  a  Norman  church. 
In  summer  steamers  ply  from  Aberdour  to  Leith  (p.  475). 

20^l.2^1.'Bnrntisla.nd  ( Forth  Hotel) ,  a  small  seaport  and  watering- 
place  ,  is  connected  with  (5  M.)  Granton  (p.  484 ;  frequent  trains 
to  the  Waverley  Station  at  Edinburgh,  41/2  M.)  by  a  steam-ferry 
(fares  lOd.,  5d.).  In  the  firth,  about  halfway  to  Granton  (to  the  left), 
lies  the  fortified  island  of  Inehkeith.  —  12^ fo  M.  Kinghorn.  —  26  M. 
Kirkcaldy  (George),  a  straggling  town  of  27,000  inhab.,  extending 
along  the  shore  for  2  M.,  was  the  birthplace  of  Adam  Smith  (1723- 
90).  Thomas  Carlyle  and  Edward  Irving  were  school-teachers  here. 
—  Near  (28  M.^Dysart  the  line  turns  to  the  N.  and  quits  the  Firth 
of  Forth.  —  From  (31  M.)  Thornton  Junction  lines  run  to  the  W. 
to  Dunfermline  aLixd  Stirling  (comp.  pp.  516,  495),  to  the  S.  to 
Buckhaven  and  Methil,  and  to  the  E.  to  St.  Andrews  (see  below).  — 
33  M.  Markinch  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Leslie.  At  the  village  of 
Falkland  (Bruce  Arms),  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  (361/2  M.)  Falkland  Road 
(omnibus  five  times  dailyl,  is  an  old  royal  Palace  (16th  cent.),  now 
the  property  of  the  Marquis  of  Bute,  who  has  restored  it.  At  (39  M.) 
Ladybank  lines  diverge  to  Perth  (p.  510)  and  Kinross  (p.  516).  — 
441/2  M.  Cupar  (Royal ;  Tontine),  the  county-town  of  Fifeshire, 
with  4700  inhab.  The  County  Hall  contains  good  portraits  by  Wil- 
kie,  Raebum,  and  Allan  Ramsay.  —  51  M.  Leuchars,  with  a  fine  old 
Norman  church,  is  the  junction  of  a  line  to  (41/2  ^^O  i^^-  Andrews, 
and  of  another  to  (51/2  M.)  Tayport,  opposite  Broughty  Ferry  (p.  509). 

St.  Andrews  (Royal;  Cross  Keys;  -Marine,  frequented  by  golfers; 
Alexandra,  quiet  and  pleasant),  an  ancient  town  with  6850  inhab.,  long 
the   ecclesiastical  metropolis    of  Scotland,  is   the    seat  of  one  of  the  four 


to  Aberdeen.  DUNDEE.  71.  Route.     509 

Scottish  universitiea  (founded  1411),  and  is  perhaps  the  most  fashionable 
watering-place  in  the  country.  It  is  the  'Metropolis  of  Golf,  and  the 
chief  Golf  Meetings ,  in  May  and  October,  attract  large  gatherings  of 
visitors.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  of  Scotland,  and  the  see 
of  St.  Andrews  dates  back  to  the  8th  century.  Patrick  Hamilton,  one 
of  the  first  (1527),  and  Walter  3Iill  (1558),  the  last  Scottish  martyr  of  the 
Reformation,  both  suffered  at  St.  Andrews.  George  Wishart  was  also 
burned  here  in  1545,  and  his  execution  led  to  the  speedy  death  of  the 
Archbishop,  Cardinal  Beaton,  who  was  assassinated  in  his  palace  in  1546 
by  several  of  Wisharts  friends.  The  ruins  of  the  'Cathedral.,  built 
between  1159  and  1318,  show  that  it  must  have  been  a  very  fine  and 
extensive  edifice.  Adjacent  is  the  square  Tower  of  Si.  Regulus  (108  ft.^ 
view)  erected  about  1130,  but  assigned  by  popular  tradition  to  a  Pictish 
monarch  of  the  4th  cent. ,  and  said  to  have  been  built  in  honour  of  St. 
Regulus,  a  Greek  saint,  shipwrecked  here  with  the  bones  of  St.  Andrew, 
who  henceforth  became  the  patron-saint  of  Scotland.  It  may,  however, 
occupy  the  site  of  an  original  Culdee  cell.  Near  the  W.  end  of  the  Cathe- 
dral is  the  beautiful  arcade  known  as  the  Pends.  On  a  ruck  rising  above 
the  sea  is  the  old  Castle  of  the  bishops.  Opposite  Madras  College.,  a  large 
school  attended  by  about  900  boys,  is  a  beautiful  little  fragment  of  a 
Dominican  priory  of  the  13th  century.  The  University  of  St.  Andrews  con- 
sists of  the  College  of  St.  Mary  (theological)  and  the  United  Colleges  of 
SS.  Salvator  and  Leonard.  A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  fine  "Golf  Links, 
alive  during  the  season  with  hundreds  of  votaries  of  the  Scottish  national 
pastime.  —  Beyond  St.  Andrews  the  line  goes  on  along  the  coast  to  Crail, 
Anstruther,  Elie.,  Largo.,  Leven  (all  sea-bathing  and  golfing  resorts),  and 
Thornton  Junction  (see  p.  508). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Tay  by  the  substantial  Tay  Bridge., 
2  M.  long,  opened  in  1887,  and  enters  the  Tay  Bridge  Station  at  — 

59^/2  M.  Dundee.  —  Hotels.  (Jdeens,  Rotal,  Rotal  Bkitish,  all  in 
High  St.;  Lamb's  Tempekangk,  Reform  St.;  Imperial  Temperance,  Com- 
mercial St. 

Railway  Stations.  Tmj  Bridge  Station.,  for  X.B.R.  trains;  Dundee  West, 
for  Caledonian  trains  to  Perth  ;  Dundee  East.,  a  joint-station,  for  trains  to 
Forfar,  Arbroath,  Aberdeen. 

U.  S.  Consul,  Mr.  John  C.  Higgins.  Esq. 

Dundee,  the  third  city  of  Scotland  in  size,  with  153,000  inhab., 
a  busy  commercial  and  manufacturing  place  (linen,  jute,  etc.),  but 
possessing  little  interest  for  the  tourist.  The  *0W  Steeple  (156  ft. 
high),  in  the  Nethergate,  dates  from  the  14th  century,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  church-towers  in  Scotland  (adm.  2d.  ;  view).  Adjacent 
is  the  Town  Cross  ( 1586).  The  Albert  Institute^  with  a  museum  and 
a  small  picture-gallery,  is  a  modern  Gothic  edifice  by  Sir  G.G.  Scott. 
The  University  College  was  established  in  1883  ,  chiefly  with  Miss 
Baxter's  bequest  of  140,000i.  The  Royal  Infirmary  is  an  exten- 
sive building.  Good  views  are  obtained  from  the  Esplanade, 
skirting  the  Tay ,  from  the  Baxter  Park ,  and  from  Dundee  Law 
(570  ft.)  —  From  Dundee  to  Perth,  see  p.  511. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  E.  and  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  the  Tay 
estuary.  63  M.  Droughty  Ferry.,  a  favourite  residence  of  the  citizens 
of  Dundee,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tay;  601/2  M.  Monifieth;  70  M. 
Carnoustie,  a  watering-place,  with  golf-links.  The  line  skirts 
the  coast,  with  views  of  the  sea.  —  76  M.  Arbroath  (White  Hart; 
Imperial),  an  industrial  town  and  seaport,  with  23,000  inhab.,  pos- 
sesses an  interesting  ruined  *  Abbey,  founded  by  William  the  Lion 


510     Route  71.  PERTH.  From  Edinburgh 

in  1178.  The  remains  are  mainly  E.E.  Atout  10  M.  off  the  coast 
is  the  Inchcape  or  Bell  Rock  Lighthouse.  Arbroath  and  its  neigh- 
hourhood  are  described  in  Scott's  'Antiquary'.  —  90  M.  Montrose 
(Central;  Star;  Queen's)^  a  clean  little  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the 
South  Esk^v/iih  13,000  inhabitants.  Montrose  is  said  to  have  been  the 
birthplace  of  the  Marquis  of  Montrose  (in  1612),  and  it  was  the 
first  place  in  Scotland  where  Greek  was  taught.  A  branch  runs 
hence  to  the  N.  to  (12  M.)  Bervie. 

At  (92  M.)  Hillside  our  line  unites  with  the  Caledonian  Rail- 
way (see  below).  Stations  Laurencekirk  and  Fordoun.  —  11472  M. 
Stonehaven  (Royal;  Urie),  the  county-town  of  Kincardine,  visited 
for  bathing  (4500  inhab.).  A  little  to  the  S.  (to  the  right  of  the  rail- 
way), perched  upon  a  rock  overhanging  the  sea,  are  the  picturesque 
ruins  of  *Dunnottar  Castle  .^  built  in  the  13th  cent,  and  afterwards 
possessed  by  the  Keiths,  Earls  Marischal  of  Scotland. 

131  M.  Aberdeen^  see  p.  514. 


b.    Caledonian  Railway  viS,  Perth  and  Forfar. 

158  M.  Railway  in  5-6  hrs.  (fares  as  above).    Comp.  p.  512. 

From  Edinburgh  (Waverley)  to  (36  M.)  Stirling  and  (40  M.) 
Dunblane,  see  R.  67.  Here  the  line  to  Callander  and  Oban  (comp. 
pp.  494,  499)  diverges  to  the  left,  while  the  Perth  line  runs  to 
the  right  (N.).  50  M.  Greenloaning ^  2  M.  from  which  is  the  Roman 
camp  of  Ardoch.  —  From  (571/2  M.)  Crieff  Junction  a  branch  diver- 
ges to  (9  M.)  Crieff  and  (17  M.)  Comrie. 

CrisS  (Royal  Hotel;  Drummond  Arms;  'Hydropathic),  a  town  with  4900 
inhab.,  situated  on  a  hill  in  the  midst  of  a  finely-wooded  district,  is  a  good 
centre  for  excursions.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  several  well-preserved 
old  castles  :  Drummond  Castle  (3  M.  to  the  S.),  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  An- 
caster-,  Ochtertyre,  2V2  M.  to  the  N.W.;  Monzie  (pron.  Monee),  3  M.  to  the 
N. ;  etc.  —  Comrie  (Royal;  Bridge  End),  with  about  1000  inhab.,  is  noted 
for  slight  earthquakes.  A  four-in-hand  coach  is  in  waiting  at  Comrie  station 
to  take  passengers  on  to  Lochearnhead  (15  M.,  in  3  hrs.),  a  delightful  drive. 
The  road  leads  through  a  well-wooded  country  to  (6  M.)  Si.  Fillans  ('Ho- 
tel), a  lovely  little  village  at  the  E.  end  of  Loch  Earn.  From  St.  Fillans 
the  road  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  the  Loch  all  the  way  to  (9  M.)  Lochearnhead 
Station  (p.  502).  To  the  left  rises  Ben  Voirlich  (3224  ft ).  The  excursion 
may  be  prolonged  to  Killin  and  Loch  Tay  (comp.  p.  517). 

68  M.  Perth.  —  Hotels.  Royal  George,  on  the  Tay,  3/4  M.  from  the 
station;  Station  Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.,  B.  3s..  D.  5s.,  Rotal  British 
Hotel,  R.  &  A.  from  4s.,  D.  3s.  6d,,  Queen's,  unpretending,  all  these  at  the 
station;  McMastee"s  Temperance,  St.  John's  St.;  Salutation,  in  the  town. 
—  Rail.  Refreshmt.  Rooms. 

Perth,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Tay,  with  30,000  inhab.,  is 
an  ancient  town,  claiming  to  be  of  Roman  origin,  and  long  the  capital 
of  the  Scottish  kings  (comp.  p.  476).  Few  traces  of  its  antiquity 
are,  however,  left,  for  the  'rascal  multitude'  (as  Knox  called  the 
Perth  mob  at  the  Reformation)  and  the  municipal  authorities  then 
and  later  made  a  clean  sweep  of  all  the  old  religious  houses. 
The  principal  church  is  St.  John's,  mainly  of  the  Dec.  period,  with 


to  Aberdeen.  FORFAR.  71.  Route.     511 

an  earlier  tower;  in  front  of  the  high-altar  Edward  III.  of  England 
is  said  to  have  stabbed  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  Cornwall,  in  1336. 
John  Knox  often  preached  here  (ca.  1559).  The  County  Buildings, 
in  Tay  Street,  occupy  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  the  Gowrie  Con- 
spiracy against  James  VI.  was  formed  (1600).  At  No.  78  George  St. 
is  a  small  Museum  (daily  12-5;  adm.  3d.),  and  at  the  end  of  the 
street  is  Perth  Bridge,  built  by  Smeaton  in  1771 ,  from  which  there 
is  a  good  view.  Adjoining  the  river  are  two  open  spaces  of  green 
sward,  known  as  the  North  and  South  Inch  (j.c.  island).  The  former, 
which  is  the  larger  of  the  two,  was  the  scene  of  the  judicial  combat 
between  the  Clan  Chattan  and  the  Clan  Quhele,  described  by  Scott 
in  the  'Fair  Maid  of  Perth'.  On  the  South  Inch  is  the  General  Pri- 
son for  Scotland,  originally  built  in  1812  for  French  prisoners,  and 
since  enlarged.  The  'Fair's  Maid  House'  (so  called)  is  shown  in 
Curfew  Row,  near  the  North  Inch.  In  this  neighbourhood  also  stood 
the  Dominican  Convent,  where  James  I.  was  assassinated  in  1437, 
in  spite  of  the  heroic  action  of  Catherine  Douglas,  who  made  her 
arm  do  duty  for  the  missing  bar  on  the  door.  (This  incident  is 
finely  described  in  Rossetti's  ballad,  the  'King's  Tragedy'.) 

Those  who  have  time  should  climb  'Zinnoul  Hill  (730  ft.),  which  lies 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tay,  and  may  be  ascended  from  the  railway-station 
in  3/4  hr.  The  'View  is  charming.  —  Another  good  view  is  afTorded  by  Afon- 
crieff  Hill  (725  ft.),  3V-'M.  to  the  S.E.  —An  excursion  may  also  be  made  to 
(2V2M.)  Scone  Palace  (special  permission  necessary),  a  modern  mansion  on  the 
site  of  the  Augustine  abbey  in  which  the  early  Scottish  kings  were  crowned. 

From  Perth  to  Dundee,  20  M.,  railway  in  V2-I  hr.  (fares  3s.  6d.,  is. 
8d.).  This  line  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  the  Firth  of  Tay  and  traverses  the 
fertile  Carse  of  Gowrie.  To  the  left  are  Dunsinane  and  the  other  Sidlaw  Hills. 
—  Dundee,  see  p.  509. 

Beyond  Perth  our  line  runs  to  the  N.  to  (72  M.)  Luncarty  and 
(75  M.)  Stanley  Junction,  where  it  diverges  to  the  E.  (right)  from 
the  Highland  Railway  (see  p.  516).  —  80^2  M.  Coupar  Angus 
(Royal)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Blairgowrie  (p.  513).  —  From 
(85  M.)  Alyth  Junction  a  branch  runs  to  the  N.  to  (5 M.)  the'small  town 
ofAlyth  (Airlie  Arms),  whence  a  road  ascends  the  rocky  and  wooded 
valley  of  the  Isla  to  (11  M.)  Glenisla.  The  Isla  forms  several  small 
waterfalls,  the  finest  of  which  is  the  Reekie  Linn.  Near  Porter 
Castle,  4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Glenisla,  a  road  leads  to  the  W.  to  Glenshee 
(p.  513).  —  At  (92  M.)  Glamis  stands  *Glamis  Castle  (open  on 
Frid.),  a  stately  baronial  hall  in  a  fine  park ,  said  by  tradition  to 
be  the  ancestral  home  of  Macbeth.  The  room  in  which  the  thane 
is  said  to  have  murdered  Duncan  in  1040  is  still  pointed  outl  It 
seems  probable  that  Malcolm  II.  was  really  murdered  here  in  1033. 
The  present  mansion,  with  its  numerous  towers  and  turrets,  dates 
mainlyfrom  1578-1621.— 96i/-2^I-Forfarr Cownft/ Arms; /JoyaU,  an 
ancient  town  with  12,800  inhab'.,  once  the  seat  of  the  Scottish  kings. 

Branch  lines  run  hence  to  Kirriemuir  (Crown),  a  weaving-village,  identi- 
fied with  the  'Thrums'  of  Mr.  J.  31.  Barrio's  tales;  t>  Bronghty  Ferry  (p.  509); 
and  via  Brechin  direct  to  Ed zell  (PannniTe  Arms;  Star),  with  the  interest- 
ing ruins  of  a  large  castle. 


512     Route  71.  BRECHIN.  From  Edinburgh 

105  M.  Guthrie  Junction  is  the  starting-point  of  a  line  to  (8  M.) 
Arbroath  (p.  609).  —  From  (II21/2M.)  Bridge-of-Dun  a  short  branch 
diverges  to  (4M.)  Brechin  (Commercial;  Crown),  a  town  of  9000  in- 
hab.,  with  a  Cathedral  founded  by  David  I.  about  1150,  but  utterly 
spoiled  by  restoration  in  1807.  Adjacent  is  a  Round  Tower  (100  ft. 
high),  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  or  perhaps  earlier.  Not  far  off  is 
Brechin  Castle^  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  a  modern  mansion 
on  the  site  of  an  old  castle.    To  Edzell,  see  p.  511. 

115M.  Dubton  is  the  junction  of  a  short  line  to  Montrose  (p.  510). 
From  (II6V2  M.)  Hillside,  where  we  join  the  N.B.R.,  to  (155  M.) 
Aberdeen,  see  p.  510. 

c.  Vi&.  Perth,  Blair  Atholl,  and  Braemar. 

To  this  excursion,  the  finest  route  to  Aberdeen,  5-6  days  should  be 
devoted,  ist  Day.  Eailway  from  Edinburgh  to  Perth  (IVs-SVs  hrs. ;  fares 
9«.  6d.,  35.  10V2d.);  and  thence  by  an  evening  train,  in  3/4  hr.,  to  Dunkeld. 
—  2nd  Day.  Eailway  from  Dunkeld  to  Blai)'  Aiholl  in  i  hr.  —  3rd  Day. 
From  Blair  Atholl  to  Braemar,  a  walk  of  9-10  hrs.  (pony  and  guide  about 
3O5.);  two-thirda  of  the  way  may  be  driven.  —  4th  Day.  From  Braemar 
by  coach,  in  21/2  hrs.,  io  Ballater;  and  thence  by  railway,  in  l3/4-2V4hrs., 
to  Aberdeen. 

Those  who  wish  to  avoid  the  somewhat  fatiguing  route  through  Glen 
Tilt  (described  below)  may  drive  from  Dunkeld  to  Braemar  by  a  good 
road  (47  M. ;  coach  in  6V2-T  hrs.)  via  Blairgowrie  and  Glenshee  (comp. 
p.  513).  [The  coaching  distance  may  be  reduced  to  35  M.  by  going  by  rail- 
way from  Perth  to  Blairgowrie,  via  Coupar  Angus.]  It  is  also  possible  to 
drive  all  the  way  from  Pitlochry  to  Braemar ,  by  a  somewhat  round- 
about route  (46  M.). 

From  Edinburgh  to  Perth,  see  R.  72  and  R.  71b ;  from  Perth  to 
Blair  Atholl,  see  pp.  516-518. 

From  Blair  Atholl  to  Braemar  through  Glen  Tilt,  30  M. 
This  route  is  usually  accomplished  on  foot  or  on  horseback  (guide 
and  pony  30s.),  as  the  middle  part  of  it  (10  M.)  is  not  available  for 
carriages.  It  is,  however,  possible  to  drive  or  ride  to  (8  M.)  Forest 
Lodge,  walk  thence  to  (10  M.)  Bynark  Lodge,  and  drive  or  ride  the 
rest  of  the  way  (12  M.)  by  carriage  or  pony  ordered  from  Braemar 
by  telegram.  Walkers  should  start  early  and  take  luncheon  with  them, 
as  no  inns  are  passed  on  the  way.  —  The  route  follows  the  Tilt  closely 
for  the  larger  half  of  the  way,  passing  through  the  wild  Glen  Tilt, 
which  contains  numerous  red  deer.  To  the  right  rises  Ben-y-Gloe 
(3770  ft.),  the  'mountain  of  the  mist'.  Several  small  waterfalls  are 
passed.  The  road  ceases  at  (8  M.)  Forest  Lodge,  a  shooting-box  of 
the  Duke  of  Atholl,  beyond  which  we  follow  a  rough  footpath. 
A  little  beyond  the  (5V4  M.)  Ford  of  Tarff,  now  crossed  by  a 
bridge ,  we  reach  the  highest  point  of  the  route  (1550  ft.).  At 
(472  M.)Bynack  Lodge  (Buke  of  Fife)  the  road  re-appears,  and  Ben 
Muich-Dhui  (4296  ft.)  comes  into  sight  in  front.  In  2^/2  M.  more 
we  reach  and  cross  the  Dee,  and  we  then  follow  its  left  bank  to 
the  (3  M.)  *Linn  of  Dee,  where  the  river  dashes  through  a  nar- 
row rocky  'gut'.     We  here  again  cross    the  Dee.     About  IV2  M. 


to  Aberdeen.  BRAEMAR.  71.  Route.     513 

further  on  we  reach  a  path  on  the  right  (with  a  placard  an- 
nouncing that  no  carriages  are  allowed  this  way),  which  leads  to 
(l'/2M.)  the  ColoneVs  Bed^  a  narrow  ledge  above  a  deep  pool,  which 
is  said  to  have  furnished  shelter  to  one  of  those  who  were  'out  in 
the  45' ;  the  rapids  a  little  farther  up  are  also  fine.  [Those  who 
make  this  digression  have  to  return  by  the  same  way  to  the  road.] 
About  2  M.  beyond  this  path,  to  the  left,  at  a  bridge,  is  a  rustic 
gate  leading  to  the  small  but  picturesque  *  Corriemulzie  Falls  (close 
to  the  road).  Nearly  opposite  this  gate  was  the  entrance  to  Mar  Lodge 
(Duke  of  Fife),  burned  down  in  1895.  A  new  Lodge  has  been 
erected  near  Old  Mar  Castle,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Dee,  opposite 
Braemar.    Then,  3  M.  — 

Braemar,  or  Castleton  of  Braemar  (1100  ft. ;  Fife  Arms,  Inver- 
cauld  Arms,  both  overcrowded  in  the  season;  Lodgings),  a  pleasant 
spot  for  a  stay  of  a  few  days,  romantically  situated  on  the  Dee  and 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains.  The  environs  are  finely  wooded. 
The  air  is  bracing  and  exhilarating. 

To  the  S.W.  rises  Morrone  Hill  (2819  ft.),  easily  ascended  in  1  hr.  and 
affording  a  good  view  of  Braemar,  Ben  Muich-Dhui,  etc.  —  To  the  'Falls 
of  Garawalt,  3-4  lirs.  We  follow  the  road  to  Ballater  (see  p.  514)  for  3  M., 
and  then  turn  to  the  right  through  a  gate,  on  this  side  of  Invercauld  Bridge 
(sign-posts).  Pine  view  from  an  iron  bridge  above  the  falls.  —  Perhaps 
the  most  interesting  drive  is  to  the  (6V2  M.)  Linn  of  Dee  (as  above),  visit- 
ing the  Corriemulzie  Falls  and  Colonel's  Bed  on  the  way,  and  returning 
along  the  N.  bank  of  the  Dee  to  (9  M.)  Invercauld  Bridge'  and  passing  the 
Linn  of  Quoich  (in   all  18-19  M,). 

Ben  Muich-Dhui  (4296  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  Scotland  after  Ben 
Nevis  (p.  503),  rises  to  the  W.  of  Braemar,  from  which  it  may  be  ascended 
in  10  hrs.,  there  and  back  (guide  10s.,  pony  10s.).  The  road  to  it  crosses 
the  Dee,  at  the  Linn  of  Quoich  (see  above),  and  leads  to  (10  M.)  Derry  Lodge, 
up  to  which  point  driving  is  practicable.  This  reduces  the  necessary  walk- 
ing or  riding  (up  and  down)  to  oVs-B  hrs.  The  pony-track  from  Derry  Lodge 
is  easily  traced.  The  'View  from  the  top  is  very  extensive.  Those  who 
wish  to  descend  to  Aviemore  (p.  518)  should  follow  the  ridge  to  the  N.  to 
the  (1  hr.)  top  of  Cairngorm  (4084  ft.;  view)  and  descend  thence  through 
Rothiemurchus  Forest  (guide  or  good  map  and  compass  desirable;  also 
plenty  of  daylight).  To  the  right  (E.)  of  the  ridge  between  Ben  Muich-Dhui 
and  Cairngorm  lies  the  solitary  and  deep-blue  Loch  A\in,  surrounded  bv 
rocky  walls,  900-1500  ft.  high. 

Another  favourite  ascent  from  Braemar  is  that  of  -Lochnagar  (3770  ft.), 
which  lies  to  the  S.K.  (4-5  hrs.;  guide  7s.  Qd.,  pony  7s.  Gc?.).  The  route 
leads  through  Glen  Callater,  and  carriages  can  go  as  far  as  (5'/.;  M.)  Loch 
Gallater,  whence  the  path  to  the  summit  is  fairly  defined.  Below  the  N. 
shoulder  lies  the  small  lake  of  Lochnagav.  Byron  spent  part  of  his  boy- 
hood in  the  farmhouse  of  Ballatrich,  51/2  i^I.  from  Ballater,  and  has  suiig 
the  praises  of  Lochnagar  in  a  well-known  passage.  —  The  descent  may  be 
made  (clearly  marked  tracks)  to  Ballater  or  Balmoral  (see  p.  514). 

From  Bkaemak  TO  Blairgowkie,  35  M.,  coach  (8  a.m.)  daily  in  6  hrs., 
through  Glen  Clunie  and  the  picturesque  Glenshee.  Halts  are  made  at  the 
(15  M.)  Spital  of  Glenshee  Hotel  and  the  (26  M.)  Persie  Inn.  28  M.  Bridge 
of  Cally  (Temperance  Inn);  hence  to  Pitlochry,  see  p.  518.  Passengers 
for  Perth  may  dine  in  Blairgowrie  at  the  Royal  Hotel  (D.  3s.,  ready  on  ar- 
rival of  the  coach)  or  at  the  Queen's  Hotel  and  go  on  by  afternoon  train. 
To  Dunkeld,  see  p.  516. 

From  Braemar  a  well-appointed  four-horse  coach  runs  dally  to 
(171/2  M.)  Ballater,  a  *DriYe  of  21/2  hrs.  (fares  5^.,  4s.).  The  coach 
Baedeker's  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit.  33 


514     Route  71.  ABERDEEN. 

passes  Invercauld  House  on  the  left,  and  crosses  (3M.)  *Invercauld 
Bridge,  the  flnestpoint  on  the  road,  -svhich  follo-^s  theZ>ce  the  whole 
way.  6  M.  (to  the  right)  Balmoral  Castle,  the  Highland  home  of 
Queen  Victoria  (shown,  by  special  order,  in  the  absence  of  the 
Queen).  The  cairns  which  crown  most  of  the  hills  here  are  mem- 
orials of  friends  of  Her  Majesty.  To  the  left,  ^/^  M.  beyond  Bal- 
moral, is  the  new  Crathie  Church  (1893-95),  where  the  Queen  often 
attends  divine  service.  Then  (l'/2  M.),  to  the  right,  Abergeldie 
Castle,  leased  by  Her  Majesty.  —  6V2  M.  Ballater  (750ft.;  Inver- 
cauld Arms),  a  small  summer-resort,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  wooded  Craig endarroch  (1250  ft.),  which  is  frequently  as- 
cended for  the  sake  of  the  views  ('/2  hr.). 

From  Ballater  excursions  may  te  made  to  Morven  (2880  ft.),  the  (6  M.) 
Linn  of  Muick,  (2  M.)  Pannanich  Wells,  (6V2  M.)  Burn  of  the  Vat,  etc.  It  is 
also  one  of  the  recognised  starting-points  for  an  ascent  of  Lochnagar  (see 
p.  513;  4-5  hrs.). 

Ballater  is  the  terminus  of  the  Deeside  Railway,  which  runs 
hence  along  the  Dee  to  (431/2M.)  A6er(iee7i(l  1/4-2  hrs.;  fares  7s. 3ti., 
3s.  7i/2^0-  '^^6  chief  intermediate  stations  are  (11  M.)  Aboyne 
(Huntly  Arms)  ,  with  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly ,  and 
(26 V2  M.)  Banchory.  Beyond  (381/2  M.)  Murtle,  the  large  Deeside 
Hydropathic  is  seen  to  the  right. 

431/2  M.  Aberdeen  (^Imperial,  Guild  St. ;  Palace,  at  the  station, 
R.  &  A.  4>\  6d.,  D.  55.;  Grand,  Union  Terrace  Gardens;  Forsyth's 
Temperance;  Douglas,  Market  St.,  5  min.  from  the  station),  which 
may  be  called  the  capital  of  the  N.  of  Scotland,  is  a  handsome  town, 
built  chiefly  of  granite,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dee.  Pop. 
(1891)  121,623. 

Aberdeen  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Scotland  ,  though  the  time  of 
its  foundation  is  ohscure.  The  earliest  known  municipal  charter,  afterwards 
extended  by  Eobert  Bruce,  was  granted  by  William  the  Lion  in  1179.  Its 
characteristic  industry  is  the  production  of  polished  granite  monuments, 
columns  ,  etc. ,  in  which  about  ['0  firms  are  engaged.  The  art  of  granite- 
polishing,  which  had  been  lost  (as  far,  at  least,  as  this  country  is  con- 
cerned) since  the  days  of  the  Pharaohs,  was  revived  here  about  1S18 
by  Mr.  Alexander  Macdonald  (Slacdnnald,  Field,  &  Co.),  and  has  become 
the  chief  source  of  the  town's  prosperity.  Upwards  of  250,000  tons  of  granite 
are  annually  quarried  in  Aberdeenshire.  The  visitor  should  not  quit 
Aberdeen  without  going  over  one  of  the  highly  interesting  granite-works. 
Ship-building  and  paper-making  are  also  important  industries.  Aberdeen 
carries  on  a  large  export-trade  in  granite  monuments,  cattle,  etc.,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  important  centres  of  trawl-lishing  in  the  country.  It  has 
a  fine  harbour  and  docks. 

Union  Stkeet,  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  Aberdeen,  3/^  M.  long 
and  70  ft.  wide ,  built  entirely  of  granite,  and  one  of  the  hand- 
somest streets  in  Europe,  has  been  described  ('The  Land  We  Live 
In')  as  possessing  'all  the  stability,  cleanliness ,  and  architectural 
beauties  of  the  London  West  End  streets,  with  the  gaiety  and  bril- 
liancy of  the  Parisian  atmosphere".  It  contains  the  East  and  West 
Churches  (with  a  tower  in  common),  statues  of  the  Queen  and  the 
late  Prince  Albert,  and  numerous  elaborate  granite  facades ;  while 


ABERDEEN.  7/.  Roxde.     515 

near  its  E.  end  stand  the  fine  Municipal  Offices^  the  lofty  tower 
(210  ft.)  of  which  commands  an  extensive  *View.  In  Castle  St., 
tlte  E.  continuation  of  Union  St.,  is  the  old  Cross  of  Aberdeen. 
Broad  vSt.  (at  No.  64  in  which  Lord  Byron  lived  with  his  mother  in 
his  boyhood)  leads  to  the  N.  from  Union  St.  beside  the  Municipal 
Offices  to  Marischal  College,  part  of  the  University  of  Aberdeen,  one 
of  the  four  Universities  of  Scotland  (900  students).  Considerable 
additions  were  made  to  the  college-buildings  in  1895,  including 
the  "Mitchell  Tower  (QBS  ft.)  and  Hall  (116  ft.  long).  Admission 
to  the  tower  and  hall,  free  on  Sat.,  on  other  days  3d.,  by  tickets  to 
be  obtained  from  the  sacrist  or  at  the  leading  hotels  and  booksellers" 

—  To  the  N.  of  the  W.  part  of  Union  St.,  behind  the  Music  Hall, 
rises  the  imposing  spire  (200  ft.)  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  numerous  church-steeples  that  form  so  con  - 
spicuous  a  feature  in  every  view  of  Aberdeen.  —  Looking  to  the 
AV.  from  the  Union  Bridge  in  Union  St.,  we  have  a  view  of  a  num- 
ber of  fine  new  buildings  :  on  the  left,  in  Union  Terrace  (where 
there  is  a  statue  of  Robert  Burns'),  the  Parish  Council  Buildings  and 
the  School-Board  Offices;  in  front,  in  School  Hill,  the  Free  South 
Church  and  the  Free  Library,  before  which  is  a  Statue  of  William 
Wallace;  and  to  the  right  of  the  railway-station,  the  East  and  Wesi 
Free  Churches  and  the  Trades  Hall.  —  In  School  Hill,  farther  to 
the  N.,  are  Gordon  College  (founded  in  1750;  600  boys)  and  the 
Art  Gallery.  The  nucleus  of  the  contents  of  the  latter  is  the  collec- 
tion of  modern  paintings  formed  by  the  late  Mr.  Alex.  Macdonald, 
son  of  the  founder  of  the  granite  indnstry  (see  p.  515),  including 
a  unique  series  of  portraits  of  eminent  modern  artists,  mostly 
painted  by  themselves.  In  front  of  Gordon  College  is  a  Statue  of 
General  Gcrdon. 

The  chief  objects  of  interest  are,  however,  in  Old  Aberdeen  (tram- 
way from  Union  St.),  the  seat  of  a  bishopric  founded  in  the  12th 
rent.,  which  lies  1  M.  to  the  N. ,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Don.  The 
Cathedral  of  St.  Machir,  dating  from  1366-1522,  is  said  to  be  the 
only  granite  cathedral  in  Christendom.  It  consists  of  the  nave  only 
of  the  original  edifice,  and  is  still  in  use  as  a  parish-church.  About 
Ya  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  is  '^King's  College,  the  other  mem- 
ber of  Aberdeen  University  (comp.  above),  founded  in  1494.  The 
only  remaining  part  of  the  old  buildings  is  the  Chapel,  surmounted 
by  a  fine  lantern-tower  and  containing  some  beautiful  wood-carving. 

—  About  '/2M.  from  Old  Aberdeen  is  the  picturesque  Brig  0'  Bal~ 
gownie,  or  Old  Bridge  of  Don,  erected  in  1320. 

The  Gkeat  North  of  Scotland  Railway  has  arranged  several  pleas- 
ant circular  tours  from  Aberdeen,  taking  in  Dundee,  Tertb,  Dunkeld,  In 
verness,  the  Trossachs,  etc.  —  Regular  steamers  ply  to  Edinburgh,  London, 
Newcastle,  Wick,  Thurso,  the  Orkney  and  Shetland  Islands,  Glasgow, 
Liverpool,  etc. 


33* 


516 


72.  From  Edinburgh  to  Inverness. 

192  or  212  M.  Railway  in  673-81/4  hrs.  (fares  32s.,  15s.  iOy^d.).  To  Perth 
by  the  Caxedosian  (1^4-274  trs.)  or  by  the  North  Beitish  Railway  (1'/4- 
13/4  hrs.;  fares  by  either  8s.,  3s.  10V2(^.)5  thence  to  Inveriiess  by  Highland 
Railway. 

The  Caledonian  route  to  (68  M.)  Perth  has  been  given  in  R.  71b;  the 
following  is  a  description  of  the  route  of  the  X.B.R.  via  the  Forth  Bridge 
and  Glenfarg. 

From  Edinburgh  (Waverley)  to  (13Y4  M.)  Inverkeithing ,  the 
junction  for  the  Dundee  line,  see  R.  71a.  The  Perth  line  runs  to 
the  N.  and  soon  enters  the  Lower  Station  of  (IG^/^  M.)  Dunfermline 
( City  Arms  ;  Royal),  a  linen-manufacturing  town  with  22,365  inhab., 
of  interest  to  tourists  for  its  *Abbey,  founded  by  Queen  Margaret  and 
Malcolm  Canmore  towards  the  end  of  the  11th  century.  Of  their 
building  nothing  now  remains ;  but  the  nave  of  the  second  church 
on  this  site,  a  flue  Norman  edifice  of  1150,  still  exists  in  conjunc- 
tion with  a  barbarous  modern  structure  of  1870.  Robert  Bruce, 
whose  grave  is  marked  by  a  monumental  brass  erected  in  1888,  and 
other  Scottish  monarchs  are  buried  here.  The  remains  of  Dunferm- 
line Palace  are  scanty.  —  From  Dunfermline  (Upper  Station)  a  line 
runs  to  (20  M.)  Stirling  (p.  495)  via  (13  M.)  Alloa. 

211/.2  M.  Coicdenbeath,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Thornton  Junc- 
tion (for  St.  Andrews,  Dundee,  etc.  ;  see  p.  508);  26^/4 M.  Blairadam. 
To  the  right  lies  Loch  Leven  (p.  502).  29^,2  M.  Loch  Leven  Station. 
—  3OY2  ^1«  Kinross,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Stirling  (see  p.  495).  — 
At  (34  M.)  Mawcarse  the  new  direct  line  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  old  line  to  Ladybank  (p.  508)  and  enters  the  romantic  vale  of 
'^Glenfarg.  Two  tunnels.  377-2  M.  Glenfarg.  At  (44  M.)  Bridge  of 
Earn  our  line  unites  with  the  old  line  from  Ladybank.  —  47^/4  M. 
Perth,  see  p.  510. 

Beyond  Perth  we  continue  our  journey  by  the  Highland  Rail- 
way, one  of  the  most  beautiful  lines  in  the  three  kingdoms.  — 
4M.  (from  Perth)  Luncarty  (p.  511);  7  M.  Stanley  Junction,  for 
the  line  to  Forfar  and  Aberdeen  (p.  514);  IOV2  M.  Murthly.  The 
train  now  skirts  the  base  of  Birnam  Hill  (1325  ft. ;  to  the  left), 
the  woods  of  which  marched  to  Dunsinane  (see  p.  517),  to  the  dis- 
comfiture of  Macbeth. 

16 M.  Dunkeld  (* Birnam,  finely  situated  near  the  station,  K.  & 
A.  B-'.,  B.  35.,  D.  5.«. ;  Atholl  Arms,  *Royal,  in  the  town),  a  small 
'city'  with  800  inhab.,  charmingly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Tay,  1/2  M.  from  the  station.  The  finest  points  in  the  neighbour- 
hood are  in  the  ^-Park  of  the  Duke  of  Atholl ,  which  we  reach  by 
crossing  the  bridge  and  going  straight  through  the  town ;  about 
50  yds.  beyond  the  end  of  the  town,  to  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to 
the  park.  Here  we  are  met  by  a  guide  (adm.  for  l-2pers.  2s.,  each 
member  of  a  party  Is.),  who  conducts  ns  to  the  cathedral,  the  her- 
mitage, and  other  points  of  interest  (a  walk  of  l'/2-2  hrs.). 


PITLOCHRY.  72.  Route.     517 

The  -Cathedral,  charmingly  situated  on  a  grassy  lawn,  dates  mainly 
from  1318-1477.  The  choir  has  been  restored  and  is  used  as  the  pariah- 
church  of  Uunkeld.  Near  the  main  door  is  the  tombstone  of  the  Wolf 
of  Badenoch'.  Gavin  Douglas  (d.  1522),  translator  of  Virgil,  was  Bishop 
of  Dunkeld.  Close  to  the  W.  end  of  the  cathedral  are  two  of  the  old- 
est larches  in  Scotland.  We  then  walk  through  the  pretty  grounds,  skirting 
the  Tay,  to  the  ferry.  Here  we  cross  the  river  and  ascend  to  the  Falls 
of  the  Braan  and  the  so-called  Hermitage.,  whence  we  return  to  (3/4  hr.) 
Dunkeld  along  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Braan.  This  is  the  ordinary  round, 
but  the  visitor  should  not  fail  to  ascend  the  left  bank  of  the  Braan  to 
the  ''Rumbling  Bridge  O/2  hr.  from  the  Hermitage) ,  in  the  park  of  Mr. 
Frothingham,  with  a  romantic  waterfall  in  a  narrow  gorge,  and  then  return 
along   the  right  bank  of  the  Braan  to  Dunkeld  (1  hr.). 

Birnam  Hill  (see  p.  516),  which  may  be  ascended  from  the  station  in 
3/4  hr.,  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Two  splendid  trees  (an  oak  and  a  sy- 
camore), close  to  the  river,  behind  the  Birnam  Hotel,  are  held  to  repre- 
sent 'Birnam  "Wood  which  came  to  Dunsinane'.  Other  walks  may  be  taken 
to  Craig-p-Barns,  the  (3  M.)  Loch  of  the  Lowes.,  etc. 

From  Ddnkeld  to  Abkrfeldt  (via  Ballinluig,  see  below),  17  M.,  railway 
in  1  hr.  (fares  2s.  iOd.,  2s.  id.,  is.  bd.).  Near  Aberfeldy  (Breadalhane  Arms; 
Weem  Hotel,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  Tay,  1  M.  from  the  station),  a  villaiie 
at  the  junction  of  the  Moness  and  the  Tay,  are  the  romantic  Falls  of  Moness 
(adm.  6d.),  in  a  pretty  little  glen,  clothed  with  the  rowans  and  larches 
that  represent  Burns's  'Birks  (birches)  of  Aberfeldy'. 

From  Aberfeldt  to  Loch  Tat  and  Callander',  a  delightful  and  easily 
accomplished  e.xcursion.  Coach  in  summer  twice  daily  to  Kenmore; 
steamer  thence  on  Loch  Tay  to  Killin  Pier  (see  belowj  in  2  hrs.,  and  rail- 
way thence  to  Callander  in  ^'\-i  hr.  —  From  Aberfeldy  the  coach  runs 
through  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Tay  to  (6V2  31.)  Kenmore  (^Bread- 
alhane Hotel),  situated  at  the  point  where  the  river  flows  out  of  -Loch  Tay 
(15  M.  long,  V.'-l  M.  wide),  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Highland  lakes.  Adjacent  is 
Taymouth  Castle.,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Breadalbane,  surrounded  by  finely 
wooded  grounds,  which  are  open  to  the  public  (10-4).  Two  good  roads  lead 
from  Kenmore  to  Killin,  the  one  (16  M.)  along  the  N.W.  shore  of  Loch  Tay, 
skirting  the  base  of  Ben  Lawers  (see  below),  the  other  (IS  M.),  passing 
near  the  (2  M.)  Falls  of  Acharn.,  along  the  S.E.  shore.  —  The  steamer  on 
Loch  Tay  leaves  Kenmore  pier  twice  daily  and  calls  at  Feanian  (Tem- 
perance Hotel),  on  the  N.W.  bank  (coach  to  Glen  Lyon  daily);  Ardtalnaig 
(S.W.  bank) ;  Lawers  (Temperance  Hotel),  at  the  foot  of  Ben  Lawers  (see 
below);  and  Ardeonaig  (S.W.  bank).  At  KilUn  Pier  (*Lochay  Hotel;  *Mac- 
pherson's  Hotel)  we  reach  the  railway,  which  crosses  the  Lochay  ("View; 
pretty  falls  higher  up)  and  leads  to  (1  M.)  the  pretty  village  of  Killin  (Kil- 
lin Hotel).,  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Dochart,  near  its  entrance  into 
Loch  Tay.  Thence  the  line  runs  to  (41/2  M.)  Killin  Junction ,  where  we 
reach  the  railwav  to  Callander  (p.  494)  and  Oban  (p.  499).  In  front  towers 
Ben  More  &8ib  ft.). 

Ben  Lawers  (3985  ft.)  may  be  ascended  from  the  hotel  at  its  foot  (see 
above)  in  4-5  hrs.  there  and  back  (guide  5*.,  pony  5s.).  The  route  quits 
the  Kenmore  road  beyond  the  first  streamlet,  along  the  left  bank  of  which 
it  ascends.  Beyond  (40  min.)  a  stile  over  a  wall  we  proceed  straight  on, 
climb  the  E.  ridge  some  distance  from  the  summit,  and  then  follow  the 
ridge  to  the  top  (line  view).   Many  rare  plants  are  to  be  found  on  Ben  Lawers. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  HigMand  Railway  from  Dunkeld,  we 
soon  reach  ("24  M.)  Ballinluig .,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Aberfeldy 
(see above).  —  28V2M.  Pitlochry  (Fisher's  Hotel;  ScotlancVs;  *Hy- 
dropathic),  a  favourite  summer-resort,  in  the  midst  of  pretty  scenery, 
is  an  admirable  excursion-centre.  To  the  right  rises  Ben  Vrackie 
(2755  ft.). 

From  Pitlociirt  to  Rannoch  Station,  39  M.,  coach  daily  in  7  hrs. 
(fare  15*.);  also  mail-cart  daily  to  (14  M.)  Tummel  Bridge  (4s.).     This  fine 


518     Route  72.  BLAIR  ATHOLL. 

drive  leads  via  (3  M.)  Garry  Bridge^  whence  the  *Falls  of  the  Tummel  may 
be  visited,  to  (7  M.)  the  QveetCs  View,  at  the  E.  end  of  'Loch  Tvmmel 
(whence  pedestrians  may  return  by  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tummel).  The  coach 
then  skirts  the  X.  shore  of  the  loch  to  (14  II.)  Tummel  Bridge  (Hotel),  where 
a  road  strikes  off  N.  to  Struan  (see  below)  and  S.  to  Aberfeldy  (p.  517). 
The  finely-shaped  mountain  to  the  S.W.  is  Schiehallion  (35'i5  ft.).  The 
road  ascending  the  Tummel  goes  on  to  (21  M.)  Kinloch  Rannoch  (Bun  Ran- 
noch;  Macdonald  Arms),  at  the  E.  end  of  Loch  Rannoch.,  which  is  11  M. 
long.     The  road  follows  the  X.  bank.     39  M.  Rannoch  Station  (p.  507). 

Another  road  leads  from  Pitlochry  via  (1  M.)  Moulin  (Hotel)  to  (12V2  M.) 
Kirlmichael  (mail-cart  daily)  and  (19V2  M.)  Bridge  of  Cally  (p.  513),  where  it 
joins  the  Braemar  road.  —  The  "Pass  of  Killiecrankie  (see  below),  near  the 
confluence  of  the  Tummel  and  the  Garry,  is  seen  to  greatest  advantage  by 
drivers  or  walkers  from  Pitlochry  (4V2  M.)-  —  A  good  walk  may  be  taken 
from  Pitlochry  over  the  hills  to  (10  M.)  Aberfeldy   (p.  517). 

Beyond  Pitlochry  the  train  passes  through  the  wooded  *Pass 
of  Killiecrankie,  where  the  troops  of  William  III.  were  defeated 
in  1689  by  the  Jacobites  under  Viscount  Dundee.  The  spot  on 
which  Dundee  (Claverhouse)  fell  is  still  pointed  out.  —  33  M. 
Killiecrankie. 

36  M.  Blair  Atholl  (*Atholl  Arms;  ^Olen  Tilt,  smaller,  R.  &  A. 
4s.,  B.  2s.  6(Z.,  D.  3s.  6rf.),  in  a  finely  wooded  district,  with  Blair 
Castle,  the  principal  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Atholl.  In  the  *Park  (adm. 
is.},  to  the  right  on  leaving  the  station,  are  the  Falls  of  the  Fender 
(IV4  M.  to  the  E.). 

From   Blair  Atholl  to  Braemar,  Ballater,  and  Aber'deen,  see  pp.  512-514. 

40  M.  Struan.  About  2  M.  to  the  E.  are  the  *  Falls  of  the  Bruar.  A 
coach  runs  hence  daily  to  (13  M.)  Kinloch  Rannoch  (see  above)  via 
Glen  Erichdie  (21/4  hrs.  5  fare  4s.  Qd.).  —  The  line  now  runs  by  the  side 
of  the  Garry,  which  issues  from  Loch  Garry,  seen  to  the  left  just 
before  (51  M.)  Dalnaspidal.  Before  (59  M.)  Dalwhinnie  the  line 
reaches  the  highest  point  (1500  ft,)  attained  by  any  railway  in  Great 
Britain.  To  the  left  appears  Loch  Ericht,  above  which  towers  Ben 
Alder  (3755  ft.).  —  72  M.  Kingussie  (Kingussie  Hotel;  Royal),  a 
picturesque  summer-resort,  before  which  we  have  entered  the  valley 
of  the  Spey.  Coach  or  mail-cart  twice  daily  to  (37^2  M.)  Tulloch,  see 
p.  507.  —  83^2  M.  Aviemore  is  the  junction  of  a  new  and  shorter 
line  to  Inverness,  which,  however,  is  at  present  open  only  to  (7  M.) 
Carrbridge.  —  881/9  M.  Boat  of  Garten  (Hotel). 

The  'Speyside  Line'  of  the  G-.  K.  S.  Railway  diverges  here  to  the  right, 
and  runs  via  JVethy  Bridge,  Grantown,  BalUndalloch,  etc.  to  (41  M.)  Craigel- 
lachie  Junction,  where  it  divides,  one  branch  leading  N.  via  Rothes  to 
(12  M.)  Elgin  (p.  505),   the  other  E.  via  Dufftown  to  (15  M.)  Keith  (p.  506). 

96  M.  Grantown  (Grant  Arms:  Black  Bull),  on  the  Spey,  a  fa- 
vourite inland  health  resort,  surrounded  by  pine-woods.  Golf-links 
and  pleasant  excursions  in  the  neighbourhood.  —  The  line  quits 
the  valley  of  the  Spey,  and  beyond  Dava  and  Dunphail.  reaches 
(119  M.)  Forres  (p.  505).  Thence  to  (144  M.)  Inverness,  see  p.  505. 


519 


73.  From  Inverness  to  Thurso  and  Wick. 


Highland  Railway  to  Thurso^  153  M..  in  S^/i-^V'i  hrs.  (fares  1')S.  6rf., 
12s.)-,  to  Wick,  161  M.,  in  6-6V4  his.  ffaies  2G.'!.  9^^.,  125.);  only  two  through- 
trains  daily.  The  picturesque  district  opened  up  by  the  first  half  of  this 
route   offers   many  attractions   to   the  angler   and  the  pedestrian. 

Inverness,  see  p.  504.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Ness  and  (1  M.) 
the  Caledonian  Canal  (p.  503"),  and  beyond  Craig  Phadriy  (pp.  505 ;  10 
<'omes  in  sight  of  the  Beauly  Firth,  which  it  skirts  for  about  6  M. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  firth  is  the  Black  Isle  (see  below),  the 
name  given  to  the  peninsula  between  the  Firths  of  Beauly  and  Cro- 
marty. —  Beyond  (7  M.)  Chines  we  cross  the  Beauly  by  a  viaduf-t, 
from  which  there  is  a  view  (left)  of  Beaufort  Castle  (1885),  the 
imposing  seat  of  Lord  Lovat,  cliief  of  the  Erasers. 

10  M.  Beauly  (pron.  'Bewley';  Beauly ;  Lovat  Amis ;  Caledonian'). 
The  village,  1/2  M.  to  the  right,  contains  a  ruined  Priory  of  1'230. 

A  pleasant  walk  or  drive  may  Le  taken  hence  to  the  (3  M.)  Falls  of 
Kilinorack  and  (10  M.)  Stray.  Good  walkers  may  go  on  thence  through 
Oleii  Affric  to  (52  M.  from  Beauly,  mail-cart  daily  to  Invercannich,  17  M.) 
Qlen  Shiel,  on  the  W.  coast,  one  of  the  grandest  walks  in  Scotland;  or 
through  Glen  Slrathfarrar  to  (35  M.)  Sirathcanon  (see  below);  or  through 
Glen  ('amnch  to  (40  M.)  Loch  Alsh  (p.  508j.  Inns  are  few  and  far  between  on 
these  routes.  The  Falls  of  the  Glomach,  the  highest  and  wildest  in  Scot- 
land, may  be  visited  from  the  Shiel  Inn  (10  JVI.),  or  from  Balmacara  Hotel 
(p.  503)  on  Loch  Alsh  (16  M.). 

13  M.  Muir  of  Ord  (Tarradale  Inn),  famous  for  its  sheep  and 
cattle  markets. 

A  branch-line  runs  hence  to  (12  M.)  Fortrose,  in  the  Black  Isle  (see 
above),  via,  Redcasile,  with  a  castle  dating  horn,  iil'd,  3fun!ochy,  &n6.  Avoch. 
—  Fortrose  (980  inhab.\  once  the  episcopal  town  of  Ross  has  a  ruined 
cathedral.  About  8  31.  to  the  N.E.  (coach  in  l'/^  hr.)  is  Cromarty  (1308  in- 
hab.),  the  diminutive  county-town  of  Cromartyshire,  on  a  safe  and  com- 
modious bay.     Hugh  Miller  (18L)2-56)  was  born  here. 

Beyond  (16  M.)  Conon  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Cromarty  Firth 
and  cross  the  Conon. 

I81/.2  M.  Dingwall  (National;  Caledonian),  the  quiet  county 
town  of  Ross,   at  the  head  of  the  Cromarty  Firth.    Pop.  2283, 

A  branch -line  (fares  2d,,  41/2C?.)  runs  hence  in  10  min.  to  (4^4  M.) 
Strathpeffer  (200  ft.;  Ben  Wyvis;  Spa,  R.  &  A.  from  4s..  D.  4s.  Qd.:  Strath- 
peffer ;  numerous  Lodging  Houses),  a  much  visited  Spa,  with  sulphur  and 
chalybeate  springs,  to  which  omnibuses  also  ply  from  Dingwall  station. 
Numerous  excursions  in  the  picturesque  neighbourhood.  Ben  Wijvis  (34J9  (t.; 
guide  and  pony  2O5.)  is  easily  ascended  hence  in  8  hrs.  (there  and  back). 

Fkom  Dingwall  to  Stkumk  Fekkv,  53  M.,  railway  in  21/2-8  hrs.  (fares 
8s.  lOrf.,  4.«.  5(Z.).  This  pictures  lue  line  traverses  Scotland  frc)m  E.  to 
W.  From  (12i  2  M.)  Gawe  (Inn)  a  coach  runs  to  (32  :^I.)  Ullapool  (p.  522». 
To  the  left  we  pass  Loch  Luichart.  At  (28  M.)  Achnashetn  diverges  the 
coach-road  to  Loch  Maree  (p.  605)  and  (29  M.)  Gairloch  (p.  505).  From 
(46  M.)  Stratficarron  a  mad  runs  to  (4  M.)  Lochcarron.  whence  Loch  Torridon 
may  be  visited.  —  53  M.  Strome  Ferry  (Station  Hotel),  see  p.  502. 

Beyond  Dingwall  the  railway  skirts  Cromarty  Firth  on  the  right, 
with  a  view  of  Ben  Wyvis  (see  above)  on  the  left.  At  (25  M.)  Novar 
the  misnamed  Aultgraat  ('Ugly  Burn')  descends  through  the  *B^aofc 
Rock  of  Kiltearn,  a  curious  deep  and  narrow  gorge.  —  311/0  M.  In- 
vergordon  (Commercial),  a  thriving  little  shipping-port,  with  1054 


520     Route  73.  LAIRG.  From  Inverness 

inha"b.,  and  a  ferry  to  the  Black  Isle  (p.  519).  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  flrth  appears  Cromarty  (p.  519).  40  M.  Fearn  gave  name  to 
an  abbacy  founded  in  1230,  of  which  Patrick  Hamilton  (p.  509) 
was  titular  abbot.  To  the  right  lies  the  circular  Loch  Eye.  A  little 
farther  on  we  obtain  a  fine  view  over  the  flat  Fendom  More,  ter- 
minating in  Tarbat  Ness  on  the  N.,  and  over  Dornoch  Firth,  behind 
which  rise  the  Sutherland  hills. 

44  M.  Tain  (Royal;  Balnagown  Arms),  a  quiet  little  town,  with 
2080  inhab.,  on  Dornoch  Firth,  contains  an  ancient  Tower,  now 
forming  part  of  the  County  Buildings,  and  the  Gothic  Church  of  St. 
Duthac  orDuthus,  erected  in  the  14th  cent.,  and  restored  in  1871-76. 

About  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  is  Meikle  Ferry,  where  we  may  cross  the  firth 
(fare  Is.)  to  Skibo,  5  M.  to  the  N.  of  which  is  Dornoch  (Sutherland  Arms), 
the  clean  and  quiet  county-town  of  Sutherland,  with  a  13th  cent.  Cathe- 
dral, now  used  as  the  parish-church,  and  one  tower  of  a  castle  destroyed 
in  1570.  Good  sea-bathing  and  golfing.  —  The  nearest  station  is  The  Mound 
(see  below),  7  M.  to  the  N.  (mail-cart  daily,  25.),  and  no  less  than  34  M.  from 
Tain  by  the  circuitous  route  followed  by  the  railway. 

Beyond  Tain  the  railway  skirts  the  upper  part  of  Dornoch  Firth. 
—  57  M.  Bonar  Bridge  (Rail.  Rfmt.  Rooms,  the  last  before  Thurso  and 
Wick ;  Balnagown  Arms,  IM.  to  the  S.).  We  next  cross  the  Carron 
Water  and  shortly  afterwards  the  Kyle  of  Sutherland ,  formed  by 
the  Shin  and  Oykell.  Fine  views  to  the  left.  From  (61  M.)  Invershin 
(Inn),  the  first  station  in  Sutherland,  the  train  ascends  the  preci- 
pitous valley  of  the  Shin,  high  above  the  stream. 

663/4  M.  Lairg.  The  village  (Sutherland  Arms)  lies  2  M.  from 
the  station,  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Shin  (17  M.  long,  1-2  M.  broad). 

The  highly  picturesque  country  to  the  W.  and  N.W.  is  traversed  by 
several  mail-cart  routes  from  Lairg:  (1)  To  Loch  Inver  (p.  528),  49  M.  in 
8-9  hrs.  (fare  125.),  vi§^  Oykell  Bridge  (Inn),  Ledmore,  Inchnadamph  (*Inn), 
and  Loch  Assynt.  (2)  To  Scourie  (44  M.  ;  12s.',  p.  523)  and  Durness  (56  M. ; 
155.;  p.  523),  via  Loch  Shin  and  Overscaig  Inn  to  Laxford  Bridge,  where 
the  routes  separate;  (3).  To  Tongue  (37  M. ;  IO5. ;  p.  523),  via  Altnaharra 
(Inn),  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  returning  on  the  alternate  days. 

The  railway  now  descends  to  the  coast  through  Strathfleet.  78  M. 
The  Mound,  so  called  from  a  mound  1000  yds.  long,  constructed  by 
Telford  across  Loch  Fleet  to  afford  a  passage  for  the  road.  Mail- 
cart  to  Dornoch ,  see  above.  —  To  the  left  rises  Ben  Bhragie  (1256  ft.), 
on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  colossal  monument,  by  Chantrey,  to 
the  first  duke  of  Sutherland.  —  82^/2  M.  Golspie  (Sutherland  Arms), 
a  pleasant  but  somewhat  dull  village  with  900  inhab.,  on  the  coast. 
About  3/4  M.  to  the  E.  is  Dunrobin  Castle,  the  magnificent  seat  of 
the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  a  modern  edifice  incorporating  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  fortress  dating  from  1097  (visitors  admitted). 

We  now  cross  the  Brora  to  (88Y2  M.)  Brora  (Inns),  with  coal- 
mines. In  this  neighbourhood  numerous  Pictish  remains  have  been 
found,  including  Cinn  Trolla,  a  Pictish  house,  passed  by  the  rail- 
way 3  M.  farther  on.  At  (953/4  M.)  Loth  we  pass  Glen  Loth,  where 
the  last  wolf  was  killed  in  Scotland  in  1680.  101 1/2  M.  Helms- 
dale (Belgrave  Arms  ;  Commercial),  a  flourishing  seat  of  the  herring- 


to  Wick.  WICK.  73.  Route.     521 

fishery,  with  a  ruined  castle  (15th  cent).  The  railway  here  abruptly 
leaves  the  coast  to  avoid  the  Ord  of  Caithness,  and  ascends  the  un- 
interesting Strath  TJllie. 

From  Helmsdale  a  road  runs  along  the  coast  to  (38  M.)  Wick\  via  (9V2M.) 
Berriedale,  (151/2  M.)  Dunheath  (Inn),  (19  M.)  Latheron  (Inn),  (21  M.)  Forse 
(Inn),  and  (231/2  M.)  Lyhster  (Portland  Arms),  an  important  fishing-village. 
The  Suisgill  Burn,  on  the  right,  beyond  (llOS/^  M.l  Kildonan, 
was  the  scene  of  the  'Sutherland  gold-diggings' in  1868-69,  On  both 
sides  of  the  line  are  seen  remains  of  unsuccessful  reclamation- 
works,  now  abandoned.  To  the  left  lies  Loch  Ruar.  From  (I28V2  ^^0 
Forsinard  a  road  runs  due  N.  up  Strath  Halladale,  to  (16  M.)  Mel- 
vich  (p.  523).  The  scenery  improves.  To  the  left  are  the  two  peaks 
of  Ben  Grian  (1930  ft.,  1900  ft.)  and  (farther  off)  Ben  Loyal 
(2500ft.)  and  Ben  Hope  (3040  ft);  and  in  the  distance  to  the  right 
rise  Morven  (2313  ft.),  the  Maiden  Pap  (1587  ft.),  and  Scaraven 
(2054  ft.).  145-V4  M.  Halkirk  is  situated  on  the  Thurso  River,  a 
famous  salmon-stream.  The  ancient  Brawl  Tower  is  fitted  up  as 
an  anglers'  hotel. 

At  (147'/4  M.)  Georgemas  Junction  the  line  to  (53 '4 M.)  Thurso 
diverges  to  the  N. 

Thurso  (Royal;  Station,  SI.  Clair,  Commercial,  smaller),  an  irregu- 
larly built  town  with  3930  inhab.,  is  situated  on  a  bay  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  Hoy  (p.  524).  The  Town  Hall  contains  a  Museum,  including  the 
collections  of  Robert  Dick  (d.  1866),  baker  and  naturalist.  Large  quan- 
tities of  Caithness  flagstones  are  exported  annually.  The  harbour  is  small, 
and  all  large  vessels  lie  in  Scrahster  Roads,  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  To  the  E. 
rise  Thurso  Castle,  the  handsome  modern  residence  of  Sir  Tollemaclie  Sin- 
clair, and  Harold's  Tower,  over  the  tomb  of  Earl  Harold  (d.  1190) ,  who 
ruled  Caithness,  Orkney,  and  Shetland.  —  Steamer  from  Scrabster  to  Ork- 
ney (p.  524)  daily;  to  Leith  once  a  week;  coach  from  Thurso  to  Wick  daily; 
mail-car  to  Tongue  (p.  523),  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Friday.  —  Dunnet  Head 
(346  ft.),  about  14  M.  by  road  from  Thurso,  is  the  most  northerly  point 
of  Scotland. 

Beyond  Georgemas  we  pass  Loch  Watten,  on  the  left. 
161  M.  Wick  (Station;  Caledonian),  the  chief  seat  of  an  exten- 
sive fishery  district,  with  a  harbour  recently  improved  at  a  cost  of 
100,000L  During  the  herring-season  the  ordinary  population  of 
about  8500  is  nearly  doubled.  The  view  of  the  herring-fleet  enter- 
ing or  leaving  the  harbour,  and  the  operations  of  cleaning  and  pack- 
ing the  fish  are  characteristic.  About  IV4  M.  to  the  S,  of  the  town 
is  the  Auld  Man  0'  Wick,  a  square  tower  of  the  castle  of  Old  Wick. 
A  coach  (return-fare  4s.  Gd.)  and  a  mail-cart  (fare  2s.  6(/.)  run  daily  to 
(11  M.)  the  site  of  John  0"  Oroafs  House  (Hotel),  via  (71/2  M.)  Keiss  (Inn) 
and  (17  M.)  Huna  (Hotel).  .John  o'  Groat,  according  to  the  legend,  was  a 
Dutchman,  who  built  an  octagonal  house,  with  eight  doors  and  cont:iin- 
ing  an  eight-sided  table,  in  order  to  prevent  disputes  as  to  precedence  in 
his  family.  —  About  IV2  M.  to  the  E.  is  -Duncansby  Head  (210  ft.)  with  fine 
cliff-scenery  and  sea-view.  —  From  John  0'  Groat's  House  a  good  road 
leads  to  the  W.  to  (20  M.)  Thurso  (see  above),  via  (7  M.)  Mey  (Berriedale 
Arms),  whence  a  mail-cart  starts  for  Thurso  daily  at  11  a.m.,  (12  M.)  Dnn- 
net,  and  (15  M.)  Castletown. 

Steamers  ply  from  Wick  to  Abtrdeen  and  Leith,  twice  a  week,  and  to 
Kirkwall,  once  a  week  in  summer.  Coach  daily  to  (21 M.)  Thurso  (see 
above);  and  another  to  Lybster  and  Dunheath  (see  above). 


522 

74.  From  Gairloch  to  Ullapool,  Loch  Inver,  Durness, 
and  Thurso. 

206  M.  Coast  PuOad  practicable  all  the  way  for  carriages,  which  may  be 
hired  at  the  principal  hotels  tn  route.  Various  short-cuts  for  pedestrians. 
There  is  no  jiublic  conveyance  all  the  way,  but  Mail-Carts  ply  over  certain 
stages:  e.g.  Gairloch  to  (14  M.)  Aultbea;  Scourie  to  (7  M.)  Laxford  Bridge; 
Laxford  Bridge  to  (13  M.)  Durness:  Tongue  to  (46  M.)  Thurso.  The  tourist 
may  also  avail  himself  of  the  steamers  from  Oban  (Glasgow),  calling  weekly 
at  Gairloch,  Poolewe,  Aultbea,  Ullapool,  and  Loch  Inver  (on  the  northward 
journey  oniyi,  to  Stornoway,  and  thence  to  Thurso,  direct.  During  the 
season  the  Thurso  steamers  als  >  call  occasionally  at  Inverpolly,  Badcall, 
Loch  Inchard  ,  and  Loch  Eribol  (see  M(icB)'ayne\<i  Monthly  Sailiriff  Bills). 
Sailing  or  rowing-boats  may  be  hired  at  various  points.  —  Dundonnell,  Ulla- 
pool, Loch  Inver,  etc.,  are  convenient  starting-places  for  excursions  into  the 
interior  of  PlOSS  and  Sutherland;  and  at  various  points  mail-cart  routes 
diverge  to  the  E.  and  S.E.,  connecting  with  R.  73  at  Garve  (p.  519).  Lairg 
(p.  520),  etc.  It  should  be  noted  that  after  the  beginning  of  August,  when 
deer-stalking  begins,  the  liberty  of  traversing  the  moors  and  ascending  the 
mountains  is  much  curtailed.  Anglers  will  find  numerous  good  streams  in 
this  district,  about  which  information  is  supplied  at  the  hotels. 

Fkom  Gaikloch  to  Ullapool,  42 M.  Gairloch^  see  p.  505.  The 
road  leads  to  the  N.E.,  via  (3  M.)  Loch  Tollie,  whence  there  is  a  fine 
*View  of  Loch  Maree  (p.  505),  to  (7  M.)  Poolewe  (Temperance 
Hotel),  at  the  head  of  Loch  Ewe.  14  M.  Aultbea  (Inn)  lies  opposite 
the  well-cultivated  Ewe  Island.   17  M.  Sand,  on  Gruinard  Bay. 

Boats  may  be  hired  here,  either  for  the  whole  journey  to  Ullapool, 
round  Cailleach  Head.,  or  up  Little  Loch  Broom  to  Dundonnell  (see  below); 
fare  for  either  about  235.,  time  3-5  hrs. 

The  road  heyond  Sand  skirts  the  coast,  crossing  (21  M.)  the 
Gruinard  by  a  ferry,  then  ascends  inland  o  the  right  heyond  Mun- 
gasdale.  A  little  farther  on,  fine  view  of  Little  Loch  Broom,  between 
Sailmor  (2508  ft.)  on  the  S.  and  Ben  Goleach  (2082  ft.)  on  the  N. 
At  the  head  of  the  loch  lies  (30  M.)  Dundonnell  (Inn). 

To  the  S.  lies  the  mountainous  Dundonnell  Fore-t ,  culminating  in 
Challich  (An  Teallach;  3483  ft.).  —  The  road  to  (35  M.)  Garve  (p.  519)  as- 
cends the  picturesque  course  of  the  Strathbeg  River,  which  enters  the  loch 
at  Dundonnell. 

The  road  now  surmounts  the  col  to  the  N.,  and  descends  to  Loch 
Broom  ('Loch  of  the  Showers')  at  (37  M.)  Aultnaharrie  Ferry, 
whence  we  cross  to  (i  M.)  — 

42  M.  TJllapool  (Royal;  Caledonian),  a  village  with  900inhab. 
and  a  good  harbour.  Founded  in  1788  by  the  British  Fishery  Society 
as  a  fishing-station,  Ullapool  has  lost  its  importance  with  the  decline 
of  the  herring-fishery.    Loch  Achallt  lies  3  M.  to  the  E. 

Steamer  daily  to  Stornoway  i5s.);  mail-cart  (Is.)  daily  to  (32  M.)  Garve 
(p.  519)  via  (13  M.)  Braemore.  the  Falls  of  Measach,  and  (22  M.)  Alguish  (Inn). 

From  Ullapool  to  Loch  Inver,  32  M.  —  We  skirt  Loch  Broom 
for  some  miles,  with  a  view  of  Isle  Martin  to  the  left,  strike  inland 
at  the  Cainaird  River,  and  beyond  the  slopes  of  JBen  More  (2430  ft.) 
turn  to  the  W.  along  the  N.  banks  of  Loch  Lurgan  and  Loch  Bad- 
degyle,  with  Coulbeg  (2520  ft.)  and  Stack  Polly  (2010  ft.)  on  our 
right.   23  M.  Inverpolly  lies  on  Enard  Bay  a  little  beyond  the  river 


LOCH  INVER.  74.  Route.     523 

Polly.  Crossing  the  Kirkaig,  with  a  view,  to  the  right,  of  Suilven 
and  [fartlier  off)  Canisp  (see  below),  we  reach  (31  M.)  the  Culag 
Hotel,  about  1/2  ^^-  from  the  hotel  at  Loch  Inver. 

32  M.  Locli  Inver  (Hotel),  with  good  sea-batliing,  is  a  tourist, 
angling,  and  summer  resort  of  growing  popularity. 

Among  the  numeriius  excursions  conveniently  made  hence  are  those 
to  Suilven  or  the  Sugar  loaf  ('^399  ft.),  Canisp  (27T9  ft.),  "Locli  Assynt,  Quinag 
(2653  ft.),  etc.  Mail-cart  daily  to  Lairg  (comp.  p.  520);  steamer  weekly  to 
Stornoway  (p.  505). 

From  Loch  Inver  to  Scourie,  30  M.  The  usual  carriage  route 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  Inver  and  skirts  the  N.  bank  of  *Loch  As- 
synt  to  (11  M.)  Skaig  Bridge,  whence  it  runs  to  the  N.  between  Glas- 
ven  (2540  ft. ;  right)  and  Quinag  (2650  ft. ;  left).  At  (18  xM.)  Kyleslcu 
Ferry  (Inn)  we  cross  the  strait  between  Loch  Caimbawn  (left)  and 
Lochs  Glencoul  and  Glendhu  (right).  The  road  approaches  the  coast 
again  at  Edrachillis  Bay,  on  w^hich  lies  (27  M.)  Badcall. 

A  shorter  route  diverges  to  the  W.  from  the  above  at  Loch  Inver,  and 
runs  round  the  co;ist  to  (if)  ~Sl.)  Drumbeg  (Inn),  whence  we  ferrv  (10s.)  to 
(22  M.)  Badcall,  on  Edrachillis  Bay  (see  above).  24  M.  Scourie.  This  route 
should  be  chosen  by  those  who  have  already  seen  Loch  Assynt. 

30  M.  Scourie  (Hotel)  is  a  straggling  village,  with  a  view  of  the 
island  of  Handa,  interesting  to  ornithologists. 

Mail-cart  to  (7  M.)  Lcuford  Bridge  and  thence  to  (26  M.)  Durness,  see 
below  ;  to  Lairg,  see  p.  520. 

From  Scourie  to  Durness.  26  M.  —  A  steep  ascent  brings  us 
to  (7  M.)  Laxford  Bridge  (p.  520).  To  the  right  rise  Ben  Arkle 
(2580  ft.)  and  Foinaven  (2980  ft.).  12  M.  Rhiconich  Inn,  at  the 
head  of  Loch  Inchard.  — 26  M.  Durness  (Durine  Innl,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kyle  of  Durness,  with  a  view  of  Hoy  (p.  524).  At  (1/2  M.) 
BalmaMel  is  an  ancient  ruined  church,  with  some  interesting  tomb- 
stones. 

About  14  M.  to  the  N.W.  (good  road)  is  Cape  "Wrath,  the  :^f.W.  extrem- 
ity of  Scotland,  with  majestic  cliff's  from  250  to  6C0ft.  high.  On  the 
cape  is  a  lighthouse  (rfmt?.).  —  Mail-cart  to  (56  M.)  Lairg,  see  p.  520. 

From  Durness  to  Thurso,  76  M.  The  road  runs  along  the  ex- 
treme N.  coast  of  Scotland.  1  M.  ■'^Smoo  Cave  (adm.  10s.  each),  con- 
sisting of  several  huge  chambers  in  the  limestone  rock.  Farther  on, 
the  road  encircles  Loch  Eribol  (fine  scenery),  but  pedestrians  may 
save  10  M.  by  means  of  the  ferry  to  (18  M.)  Heilim  on  the  E.  bank. 
Carriages  as  well  as  pedestrians  are  next  ferried  over  the  (20  >L) 
nojpe  River  and  tlie  (27  M. )  Kyle  of  Tongue  to  (30  M.)  Tongue 
(Hotel  at  the  village  of  Kirkiboll ). 

A  mail-cart  plies  hence  dailv  to  (46  M.)  Thurso  (p.  521)  in  9  hra.  (fare 
7s.  %d.);  another  on  Mim.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  to  (37  M.)  Lairg  (p.  520). 

From  Tongue  the  road  leads  E.  over  the  Bor^ie  to  (43'  A)  M.)  Betty- 
hill  of  Farr  (Inn) ,  at  the  mouth  of  Strathnaver.  From  (bi^/2  M.) 
Strathy  a  coach  plies  daily  to  Thurso  (2s.).  58  M.  Melvich  (Inn; 
to  Forsinard,  see  p.  521). 

Near  (65  M.)  Reay  (Inn)  we  enter  Caithness.  We  cross  the 
Forss  Water.  —'76  M.  Thurso  (p.  521). 


524 


75.  Orkney  and  Shetland  Islands. 

Steamer  daily  from  Scvahster  (p.  521)  to  Scapa  and  Stromness  (fares 
7s.,  4s.)i  touching  at  Hoxa  (for  St.  Margaret's  Hope)  on  the  return-voyage. 
—  From  Leith,  via  (12  hrs.)  Aberdeen,  twice  weekly  to  (24  hrs.)  Kirkwall 
(22s.,  10s.)  and  (ca.  Si  hrs.)  Lerwick  (26s.,  10s.  6rf.),  touching  on  the  alter- 
nate voyages  at  Wick  and  St.  Margarefs  Hope;  and  once  weekly  to 
(24  hrs.)  Stromness  (20s.,  9s.),  Scalloway  (26s.,  10s.  6d.),  and  Hillswick. 
Return-tickets,  available  for  three  months,  on  all  these  routes,  at  a  fare 
and  a  half.  In  winter  the  steamers  ply  less  frequently.  —  Stronmess  may 
also  be  reached  by  steamers  plying  between  Liverpool,  Oban,  and  Leith, 
leaving  Oban  in  both  directions  every  Sat.  evening,  and  Stromness  every 
Men.  evening.     Fare  from  Liverpool  30s.,  from  Oban  10^, 

From  Kirkwall  the  'Orcadia'  plies  twice  weekly  to  the  N.  of  Orkney; 
and  from  Lerwick  the  'Earl  of  Zetland'  twice  weekly  to  the  N.  of  Shetland 
(information  at  the  offices  of  the  North  of  Scotland  and  Orkney  and 
Shetland  Steam  Navigation  Co.  at  Kirkwall,  Lerwick,  or  Scalloway).  — 
See  'The  Orkneys  and  Shetland',  bv  John  R.  Tudor,  with  maps  and  illustra- 
tions (1883;  21s.). 

The  Orkney  Islands  (375  sq.  M. ;  pop.  30,438)  are  about  90  in 
numlDer.  of  wMch  28  are  inhabited.  Pomona  or  Mainland  (207  sq.  M.; 
pop.  17,165}  is  the  largest.  They  are  separated  from  the  N.  of 
Scotland  by  the  tempestuous  Pentland  Firth,  67-2-8  M.  -wide.  The 
Shetland  Islands  (551  sq.  M.  ;  pop.  28,711),  about  100  in  number, 
29  inhabited,  lie  50  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Orkneys,  with  which  they 
unite  to  elect  a  member  of  parliament,  though  forming  a  separate 
county.    Mainland  (878  sq.  M. ;  pop.  20,821)  is  the  largest. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  northern  archipelagoes,  who  pride  themselves 
upon  their  Scandinavian  origin,  stoutly  refusing  to  call  themselves  Scots, 
speak  a  dialect  of  English,  with,  especially  in  Shetland,  an  infusion  of 
Norse  words ;  and  they  still  retain  many  peculiar  manners  and  customs. 
The  Udallers,  or  small  landowners  ('peerie  lairds'),  are  the  only  real 
freeholders  in  Scotland.  The  chief  occupations  are  agriculture  and  fish- 
ing, the  latter  of  which  has  recently  been  largely  developed,  so  that 
Shetland  is  now  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  Scottish  herring-fishery. 
Shetland  hand-knit  shawls  snd  hosiery,  and  Shetland  ponies  are  also 
noted.  The  chief  attractions  of  the  islands  are  the  magnificent  coast- 
scenery,  and  the  bracks  or  round  towers  and  other  prehistoric  antiquities, 
most  abundant  in  Orkney.  Anglers  find  excellent  fishing  for  sea-trout  and 
brown  trout. 

In  875  the  Orkneys  and  Shetlands  were  conquered  by  Harold  Haarfagr, 
and  they  remained  under  Scandinavian  sway  until  1468,  when  they  were 
assigned  to  James  III.  of  Scotland,  as  a  pledge  for  the  dowry  of  his  wife, 
Margaret  of  Denmark,  which  was  never  paid.  In  15S0  when  James  VI. 
married  Anne  of  Denmark,  the  Danish  suzerainty  over  the  islands  was 
formally  relinquished.  Sir  Walter  Scott  has  made  them  classic  ground 
by  his  'Pirate'. 

The  best  time  for  visiting  these  islands  is  between  the  middle  of 
June  and  the  end  of  August.  A  week  will  be  found  ample  time  by  the 
ordinary  tourist.  Enquiries  as  to  inns  or  night-quarters  in  the  northern 
parts  of  the  groups  should  be  made  beforehand. 

1.  The  Orkney  Islands. 

The  steamer  from  Scrabster  (p.  521)  to  Stromness  crosses  the 
Pentland  Firth,  and  stops  first  at  (4-5  hrs.)  Scapa  ,  on  Mainland, 
2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Kirkwall,  whence  carriages  meet  the  boat. 


ORKNEY  ISLANDS.  75.  Route.     525 

Stromness  (Mason's  Arms;  Commercial),  a  picturesque  and 
prosperous  little  seaport,  witli  1633  inhab.,  on  a  sheltered  bay,  was 
the  birthplace  of  John  Gow,  the  'Cleveland'  of  Scott's  'Pirate',  and 
of  Geo.  Stewart,  the  'Torquil'  of  Byron's  poem  'The  Island'. 

Excursions.  To  the  island  of  *Hoy  {Ship  Hotels  at  Longhope),  about 
1  day,  boat  10.?.,  to  the  'Old  Man'  15s.  The  chief  points  in  Hoy  are  the 
line  clifl's  on  the  N.  and  N.W.  coast  (including  the  Old  Man  of  Hoy^  an 
isolated  and  conspicuous  column  of  sandstone,  450  ft.  highj,  the  Dwarfie 
Stone,  and  Ward  Hill  fl564  ft.),  the  highest  point  in  the  county.  —  To 
(12  M.)  Birsay,  via  Black  Crag  (406  ft.),  Hole  of  Rowe ,  and  other  fine 
points  on  the  W.  coast  of  Mainland.  At  Birsay  are  a  ruined  Palace  (16th 
cent.),  built  by  a  natural  son  of  James  V.,  a  broch ,  and  two  ruined 
churches.  —  To  (14  M.)  Kirkwall,  see  below. 

Kirkwall,  i.e.  'Church  Bay^  (Kirkwall;  Castle),  the  capital  of 
Orkney,  is  a  clean  but  dull  town,  with  3895  inhab.  and  a  good 
harbour.  The*  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus  (Norm,  and  E.  E. ;  adm.  6d.), 
founded  in  1137  but  not  completed  till  1540,  is  one  of  the  three  old 
Scottish  cathedrals  that  are  still  in  nearly  complete  preservation. 
The  chancel,  which  is  used  as  the  parish-church,  has  a  good  rose- 
window,  inserted  about  1510.  The  arcade-work  on  the  walls  of 
the  nave-aisles  should  be  noticed.  In  the  nave  are  monuments  to 
William  Blaikie  (1824-65),  the  African  explorer,  and  to  John  Rae 
(1813-95),  the  Arctic  traveller.  Adjoining  are  the  ruined  Bishop's 
Palace,  in  which  Haco  of  Norway  died  in  1263,  and  the  Earl's 
Palace,  built  about  1600  by  Earl  Patrick  Stewart,  the  hall  of  which 
is  mentioned  in  the  'Pirate'.  To  the  E.  of  the  town  are  the  remains 
of  a  fort  built  by  Cromwell,  known  as  The  Mount. 

Excursions.  Coaches  (fare  2s.  6d.,  return  4s.)  ply  daily  to  (14  M.) 
>Sti'omness,  aflbrding  an  opportunity  of  visiting  (9  M.)  the  Tumulus  of 
Maeshoioe  and  (IO72  M.)  the  Standing  Stones  of  Stenness.  The  former  (adm. 
6d.;  guide's  house  to  the  left  of  the  road),  a  chambered  sepulchral  mound, 
36  ft.  high  and  300  ft.  in  circumference,  was  found  in  1861  to  contain 
various  rude  carvings  and  Runic  inscriptions.  The  *Stones  of  Stenness 
comprize  two  stone-circles  in  a  bleak  and  striking  situation  on  two  pro- 
montories in  the  Loch  of  Stenness,  connected  by  a  causeway  known  as 
the  Bridge  of  Brogar.  14  M.  Stromness ,  see  p.  524.  —  Other  excursions 
may  be  made  to  Wideford  Hill  (726  ft.;  view),  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Kirk- 
wall; to  Deemess,  the  easternmost  part  of  Mainland;  to  (20  M.)  Birsay 
(see  above),  its  N.W.  extremity,  etc. 

To  BuRRAT,  with  a  fine  broch,  a  ferry  (2s.)  plies  from  St.  Mary''s,  6  M. 
to  the  S.  of  Kirkwall.  From  the  S.  side  of  Burray  another  ferry  (6t?.) 
crosses  to  St.  Margaret's  Hope  (Inn;  steamer,  see  p.  524)  on  South  Ron- 
ALDSHAT.  Hoxa  (stcamcr ,  see  p.  524)  lies  3  M.  to  the  W.  —  To  (4  M.) 
Shapinshay  ,  on  which  is  Balfour  Castle,  with  fine  grounds,  a  mail-boat 
plies  daily.  —  To  Rousat,  a  local  steamer  (p.  522)  thrice  weekly.  The 
adjacent  Eglishat  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  Ecclesia,  in  honour  of 
the  old  ruined  Church   of  St.  Magnus,  remarkable  for  its  round  tower. 

To  the  Northern  Orkneys  by  the  'Orcadia',  see  p.  524.  — 
Stronsay  and  Sanday  both  contain  brochs,  and  Eday'  has  numer- 
ous antiquities.  In  Wbstray  is  the  ruined  Castle  of  ^^oltland, 
begun  in  1422.  The  scenery  of  Noup  Head  (250  ft.),  3  M.  from 
Pierowall  (Inns)  the  chief  village  in  Westray,  is  famous.  North 
RoNALDSHAY  is  accessible  only  by  boat  from  Sanday. 


526     Route  75.         SHETLAND  ISLANDS. 

2.  The  Shetland  Islands. 

The  weekly  steamer  from  Stromness  to  Scalloway  affords  a  good 
view  of  the  cliff-scenery  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Orkneys ;  but  most 
tourists  will  find  the  route  from  Kirkwall  to  (8-9  hrs.)  Lerwick  more 
convenient.  About  halfway  on  the  latter  we  pass  the  lonely  Fair 
Isle  (214  inhab.),  famous  for  its  hand-knit  hosiery,  with  patterns 
said  to  have  been  introduced  by  the  crew  of  a  shipwrecked  vessel 
of  the  Spanish  Armada. 

Lerwick,  i.e.  '■Clay  Bay'  (Grand;  Queen's-.,  Royal),  capital  of 
Shetland,  a  seaport  with  3783  inhab.,  has  a  good  pier  and  esplanade. 
The  fine  Town  Hall  (adm.  6cZ.)  contains  modern  stained-glass  win- 
dows, illustrating  the  history  of  Shetland,  and  a  small  picture-gal- 
lery. Fine  view  from  the  tower.  The  Anderson  Institute  is  a  school. 
At  the  N.  end  of  the  town  is  Fort  Charlotte,  originally  built  by 
Cromwell.    The  island  of  Bkessay  landlocks  the  harbour. 

Excursions.  To  the  ^oup  of  Noss  (6(J0ft.),  either  by  boat  (8-9  hrs. ; 
15-20s.)  round  Bre^say  or  on  foot  (14  M.  there  and  back),  ferrying  from 
Lerwick  to  Bre=say,  and  from  Bressay  to  Noss.  Permission  to  land  on 
Noss  must  be  obtained  from  the  factor  on  Bressay.  The  clifls  are  best 
seen  from  the  sea.  The  tiny  Holm  of  Noss  is  separated  from  the  S.  end 
of  Noss  by  a  precipitous  chasm  only  60  ft.  wide,  formerly  crossed  by  a 
'cradle"  working  along  two  parallel  ropes,  now  removed  in  consequence 
of  accidents.  —  To  Scalloway  (see  below)  via  Tingicall^  returning  via  Qtil- 
herwick.  15  M.  there  and  back,  —  To  Mousa  and  Fitful  Head.,  28  M.  The 
road  runs  to  the  S.  from  Gulberwick  (see  above)  to  (13  M.)  Sandlodge, 
where  permission  is  obtained  to  ferry  to  the  (2M.)  island  of  Mousa,  on 
which  is  the  linest  '''Broch  or  ''Pictish  Toicer''  in  Scotland.  —  From  Sand- 
lodge  the  road  continues  to  the  S.  to  (25  M.)  Sumborough  Head  (3(X)ft.),  and 
thence  runs  to  the  N.W.  to  (2S  M.)  'Fi^ul  Head  (928  ft.).  There  is  a 
lighthouse  on  each  promontory. 

Scalloway  ('iioi/a J;  Scalloway),  with  648  inhab.,  is  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  head  of  Cliff  Sound,  6  M.  from  Lerwick.  The  Castle, 
built  in  1600  by  Earl  Patrick  Stewart,  is  in  tolerable  preservation. 

The  steamer  route  from  Scalloway  to  HilL-wick  (comp.  p.  524)  is  one 
of  the  linest  excursions  in  the  islands,  with  views  of  magnificent  clitf- 
scenery.  To  the  W.  as  we  leave  Scalloway  appears  the  distant  island  of 
Foula  (267  inhab.),  a  famous  haunt  of  sea-fowl.  To  the  ri-ht  is  the  parish 
of  Walls,  noted  for  its  'voes'  (bays)  and  lochs.  At  Brae,  where  Mainland 
narrows  to  an  isthmus ,  the  Mavis  Grind  or  Gulfs  Bridge ,  only  50  yds. 
wide,  it  is  sometimes  possible  to  catch  the  Lerwick  steamer  in  the  Sullem 
Voe.  Hillswick  (lodgings)  is  near  some  of  the  best  cliff-scenery  in  the  islands. 

To  the  Northern  Shetlands  by  the  'Earl  of  Zetland',  seep.  524, 
The  steamer  on  certain  voyages  visits  the  N.W.  parts  of  Mainland, 
—  Whalsay  is  the  first  island  touched  at.  Yell,  a  bleak  island, 
has  numerous  brochs  and  ruined  chapels.  Fetlar,  to  the  N.E.  is 
fertile  and  picturesque.  The  northernmost  island  is  Unst  ,  at  the 
S.W.  end  of  which  is  the  ruined  Muness  Castle  (1598).  Balta 
Sound,  on  the  E.  coast,  is  an  important  fishing-station;  near  it 
are  three  stone-circles.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.  is  Haroldswick,  where 
Harold  Haarfagr  landed  in  872  to  begin  the  conquest  of  the  islands. 


INDEX. 


Abbey  Craig  496. 
Abbotsbury  97. 
Abbotsford.  466. 

—  Ferry  487. 
Abbotsham  160. 
Aber  2i  0. 

Aberayron  203.  209. 
Aberbran  206. 
Aberconway  288. 
Abercorris  269. 
Aberdare  196. 
Aberdaron  297. 
Aberdeen  514. 
Aberdour  508. 
Aberdovey  269. 
Aberedw  205. 
Aberfeldv  517. 
Aberfoyl'e  49'j. 
Abergavenny  192. 
Abergeldie  Castle  614. 
Abergele  285. 
Aberglaslyn  Pass  323. 
Abergwessin  207. 
Abergwili  208. 
Abergvnolwvn  270. 
Abermule  268. 
Abertawe  198. 
Aberthavv  197. 
Aberystwith  270. 
Abingdon  217. 
Abinger  46. 

—  Hammer  61. 
Aboyne  514. 
Abriachan  .c04. 
Accrington  3i4. 
Acharn  Falls  517. 
Achintee  503. 
Achnacarry  Castle  .003. 
Acb-na-Cloicb  501. 
Acbnaabeen  519. 

Acle  455. 
Aeol  24. 
Acrefair  311. 
Acti>n  Rridiie  351. 

—  P.urnell  267. 
Addington  44.  35.  34. 
Addlestone  63. 
Adel  410. 
Adisbam  32. 
Adlestrop  188. 
Adur.  tbe  52. 

Afon  Artro,  tbe  298. 


Afon  Cain,  Ihe  304. 

—  Taf,  the  2u3. 

—  Wen  297. 

—  yr-Allt  304. 
Ainsdale  336. 
Aintree  336. 
Aira  Force  397. 
Aire,  the  410.  411. 
Air  Point  283. 
Alan,  the  215. 
Albrighton  265. 
Albury  46.  61. 
Alcester  189. 
Aldborough  417. 
Aldeburgh  456. 
Alderley  Edge  345. 
Alderney  89. 
Aldershot  75. 
Alfriston  42. 
Algiiish  522. 
Allendale  426. 
Allerton  351. 
AUington  34. 
Alloa  496.  516. 
Alloway  491. 
Allt-Wen  Tii.  289. 
Alne,  the  424. 
Alnmouth  424. 
Alnwick  424. 
Alresford  75. 
Alston  426. 
Alstoneiield  379. 
Altcar  Flats  336. 
Althorp  256. 
Altiiaharra  520. 
Alton  63.  75.  3.52. 

—  Towers  352    380. 
Altrincham  281. 
Alum  Bay  73.  71. 
Alverstone  7i. 
Alverton  150. 
Alvcs  505. 
Alveston  248. 
Alyn.  the  273. 
Alyth  511. 
Amber^ate  357. 
Amberley  61.  53. 
Ambleside  392. 
Amersham  252. 
Amesbury  100. 
Amlwch  295. 
Ampthill  363. 


Amroth  202. 
Andover  98.  82. 
Andoversford  183.  lOS. 
Andreas  350. 
Anerley  4i. 
Angel  Road  439. 
Ansle  214. 
Anglesey,  Island  293. 

—  (Gosport)  58. 
Anker,  the  356. 
Annan  471.  470. 
— ,  the  470. 
Annesley  439. 
Anstey's  Cove  132. 
Anstiebury  Camp  60. 
Anstruther  509. 
Ant,  the  458. 

An  Teallach  52Q. 
Anton,  the  80. 
Antony  House  142. 
Apperlev  411. 
Appin  502. 
Appleby  412. 
Appledore(Bideford)  160. 

—  (Kve)  41. 
Applefovd  220. 
Applethwaite  400. 
Appuldurcombe  71. 
Aran,  the  302.  301. 
Arans,  the  306. 
Arbor  Low  379. 
Arbroath  509.  512. 
Arbury  Farm  258. 
Ardeonaii:  517. 
Aidgour  502. 
Ardlamont  Point  498. 
Ardlui  403.  51-2.  507. 
Ardoch  510. 
Ardrishaig  498. 
Ardrossan  491. 
Ardtalnaig  517. 
Ardtornish  Castle  500. 
Ardudwy  Pas^  299. 
Arenis  Station  306. 
Arenigs,  the  306.  307. 
Arisaii  5u3. 
A^ley^l^8. 
Arlini^ton  64. 
Armboth  392. 
Armitaie  353. 
Arnside  384. 

Aros  Caatle  600. 


528 


INDEX. 


Arran  492. 

—  y-Gessel  269. 
Arreton  72. 
Arroebar  491. 

—  &  Tarbet  506. 
Arthington  429.  411. 
Arthog  301. 
Arthur's  Seat  480.  468. 

—  Stone  202.  201. 
Arun,  the  53.  61. 
Arundel  61.  53. 
Arwenack  House  145. 
Ascot  106. 
Ascott-under-Wychwood 

188. 
Ash  46. 

Ashbourne  380. 
Ashburnham  Place  41. 
Ashburton  184. 
Ashbury  153. 
Ashby  256. 

—  de-la-Zouch  361. 
Ashchurch  183. 
Ashford  (Kent)  14. 

—  (Derby)  374. 
Ashiestiel  467. 

Ashley  (Isle  of  Wight)  68. 

—  Combe  169. 
~  Hill  121. 
Ashopton  376.  377. 
Ashperton  192. 
Ashton  130. 

—  under-Lyne  345. 
Ashwater  IM. 
Ashwood  Dale  379. 
Aske  Hall  418. 
Askrigg  417. 
Aston  262.  221. 
Athelney  127. 
Atherstone  356. 
Atherton  338. 
Attleborough  449, 
Auchencairn  473. 
Auchengray  471. 
Auchinleck  473. 
Auckland  Castle  422. 
Audley  End  439. 
Aultbea  522. 
Aultgraat,  the  519. 
Aultnaharrie   Ferry  522. 
Austerfield  412. 
Avebury  Circle  108. 
Aviemore  518. 

Avoch  519. 

Avon,  the  (Dorset)  95,  96. 

— ,  —  (Lanark)  490. 

— ,  —  (Somerset)  113. 114. 

— ,  —(Warwick)  243. 247. 

Avonmouth  121. 

Awe,  Pass  of  502, 

Awre  193, 

Axbridge  122, 

Axe,  the  127, 


Axe  Edge  378. 
Axminster  102. 
Aylesbury  252, 
Aylesford  33. 

Ayr  491. 
Aysgarth  417. 
Ayton  468.  428. 

Babbacombe  132. 
Bablockhythe  241. 
Bacup  345, 
Badcall  523, 
Badgeworthy  Glen  164, 

—  Water  167. 
Badminton  181. 
Bagillt  283. 

Bagley  Woods  218,  241, 
Bakewell  374,  356, 
Bala  307.  306. 

—  Lake  306.  307. 
Balcombe  47. 
Balerno  484. 
Balfour  Castle  525. 
Balfron  496. 
Ballabeg  349. 
Ballachulish  502.  501. 
Ballachurry  350. 
BalJacraine  348. 
Ballaglass  348. 
Ballasalla  348. 
Ballater  514.  513, 
Ballatrich  513, 
Ballaugh  350,  348. 
Ballindaloch  518. 
Ballinluig  517, 
Balloch  493, 
Balmacara  503,  519, 
Balmakiel  523. 
Balmer  Lawn  95, 
Balmoral  Castle  514, 
Balta  Sound  526. 
Bamborough  Castle  424, 
Bamford  367. 
Bampton  128,  898. 
Banavie  503, 
Banbury  242,  218. 
Banchory  514, 

Banff  cOQ. 
Bangor  290, 
Bank  83, 

Banks  Village  88. 
Bannockburn  495, 
Barber  Booth  377. 
Barber^s  Bridse  192. 

—  Hill  309, 
Barbrook  Mill  164, 
Barcombe  45. 
Bardney  437. 
Bardon  360. 

—  Hill  360.  35S. 

—  Mill  426. 
Bardsey  Isle  297. 
Barford  247. 


Barfreston  Church  32. 
Barking  459. 
Barkstone  368. 
Barle,  the  128.  168. 
Barmouth  299. 

—  Junction  301.  270. 
Barnard  Castle  418. 
Barnbougle  485. 
Barnetby  434. 

Barn  Gates  Inn  393, 
Barnham  53. 
Barnsley  366. 
Barnstaple  161. 
Barnston  273, 
Barnt  Green  189. 
Barracane  Bay  163, 
Barras  Nose  156, 
Barrhead  473. 
Barrow-in-Furness  384. 

—  on-Soar  358, 
Barry  195. 
Barton  House  459. 

—  on-Humber    xxxvi. 
Baschurch  272. 

Base  Brown  405, 
Basildon  Park  107. 
Basing  House  75. 
Basingstoke  75. 
Basingwerk  Abbey  283, 
Baslow  375. 
Bassenthwaite  407.  382. 
Bass  Rock  469.    ■ 
Bath  109.  liii, 
Bathampton  109. 
Batley  345. 
Battle  37. 

Battlefield  Church  267. 
Battlesbury  113. 
Batty  Moss  412. 
Bawtry  412. 
Bayham  Abbey  14. 
Beachy  Head  43.  49. 
Beaconsfield  252. 
Beal  424, 
Beaminster  97. 
Bearley  247. 
Bearnback.  isl.  126. 
Bearsted  35. 
Beaton's  Mill  495. 
Beattock  470. 
Beauchief  367.  409. 
Beaudesert  Park  353. 
Beaulieu  Abbey  83.  82. 

—  Road  95. 
Beauly  519. 

—  Firth  504.  519. 
Beaumaris  294. 
Beauport  93, 
Bebington  328, 
Beccles  456. 
Beckenham  17. 
Becky  Falls  130, 
Bector  137. 


INDEX. 


529 


Bedale  417. 
Beddau-Gwyr-Ardudwy 

316. 
Beddgelert  322. 
Bedd  Taliesin  270. 
Bedford  362. 
Bedminster  122. 
Bedruthan  154. 
Bedvvorth  258. 
Beechen  Clitr  112. 
Beeding  47. 
Beer  Alston  138. 

—  Ferris  138. 
Beeaton  Castle  281.  351. 
Begbrooke  241. 
Begnor  61. 
Bekesbuurne  32. 
Belfast  492. 

Bell  Busk  412. 
Belle  Isle  387. 
Bell  Rock  610. 

—  Weir  Lock  223. 
Belper  357. 
Belton  House  369. 
Belvoir  Castle  369. 
Bembridge  68. 
Bemerside  467. 
Bemerton  101. 
Ben  A'an  507. 

—  Alder  518. 

—  Arkle  528. 

—  Arthur  506. 

—  Bhragie  520. 

—  Cleuch  496. 

—  Cruachan  492.  498. 

—  Gdleach  522. 

—  Grian  521. 

—  Hope  521. 

—  Ime  506. 

—  Lawers  517. 

—  Ledi  494. 

—  Lomnnd  493. 

—  Loyal  521. 

—  More  007.  517.  522. 

—  Muicli-Dhui  513.  512. 

—  ^^evis  503. 

—  Rhydding  410. 

—  Slioch  505. 

—  Vane  507. 

—  Venue  494. 

—  Voirlich  507.  510. 

—  Vrackie  517. 

—  Wvvis  519. 

—  y-Gloe  512. 
Benlleet  459. 
Benglog  Falls  315. 
Benson  Lock  220. 
Bentley  452. 
Beresford  Dale  379. 
Berkeley  182. 

—  Roiid  181. 
Berkhampstead  253. 
Berkswell  258. 

Bakdekeu's  Great  B 


Bermondsey  12.  44. 
Berriedale  521. 
Berriew  268. 
Berry  Down  163. 

—  Head  132. 

—  X arbor  163. 

—  Pomeroy  Castle  134. 
Bervie  510. 

Berwick  42. 

—  on-Tweed  425. 
Bervvyn  308.  309. 

—  Hills  272.  307. 
Betcbworth  46.  60. 
Bethesda  292. 
Bettws-Garmon  321. 

—  y-Coed  312. 
Bettyhill  of  Farr  523. 
Beulah  Spa  44. 
Beverley  432.    xlv,   xlvi. 

1.  liv. 
Bewdley  187. 
Bexhill  52. 
Bicester  218. 
Bickleigh  142. 
Bickley  18. 
Bidborough  36. 
Bideford  160. 
Bidston  273.  336. 
Biggar  471. 
Biiinor  55. 
Bigsweir  176. 
Biilingsburst  61. 
Bilston  264. 
Bilton  Hall  256. 
Bindon  Abbey  97. 
Binstead  Church  67. 
Birchington  23. 
Birdlip  183. 
Birdoawald  426. 
Birkenhead  328.  336. 
Birkett  Tunnel  412. 
Birk  Fell  397. 
Birmingham  258.  189. 
Birnam  Hill  516.  517. 
Birnbeck,_isl.  126. 
Birsay  525. 
Biscay  How  387. 
Bisham  Abbey  221. 
Bishop  Auckland  422. 

—  and   his    Clerks ,  the 
217. 

Bishopdale  417. 
Bishop's  Castle  181. 

—  Cleeve  183. 
Bishopscourt  348.  350. 
Bishop's  Lydeard  128. 

—  Stortford  439. 

—  Teignton  129. 
Bishopstoke  79. 
Bishopston  200.  202. 
Bishop's  Waltham  79. 
Bishopthorpe  415. 
Bishopwearmouth  422. 

ritain.    4th  Edit. 


Bisley  Common  7i. 
Bitterne  59.  82. 
Bitton  112. 
Blackburn  344. 
Black  Country,  the  264. 

—  Crag  525. 

—  Down  122. 

Hill  (Haslemere) 

64/65. 

Hills,  the  129. 

Blackgang  70. 
Black  Head  146. 

—  Isle  519. 
Blacklow  Hill  246. 
Black  Mile  Pa.<=s  503. 
Blaekmore  Gate  164. 
Black  Mountains  192, 
Blackmouth  Mill  159. 
Black  Pill  199. 
Blackpit  156. 
Blackpool  381. 
Black  Sail  Pass  405. 
Blackwater  (Hants)  46. 

—  (Isle  of  Wight)  71. 
Blaenau  208. 

—  Ffestiniog  315.  318. 
Blairadam  516. 
Blair  Atholl  518. 
Blairgowrie  513- 
Blaisdon  Hill  173. 
Blaize  Castle  121. 
Blakesware  439. 
Blaven  501. 
Bleadon-Uphill  127. 
Blea  Tarn  390. 
Bleawick  397. 
Blencathara  406. 
Blenheim  Park  241. 
Blenkinsop  Tower  426, 
Bletchlev  254.  363. 
Bleu  Bridge  149. 
Blind  Tarn  389. 
Blisworth  254. 
Blorenge  192. 

Blue  Anchor  128. 

—  John  Mine  377. 
Blundellsands  336. 
Blyth  424. 
Blvthburgh  456. 
Blythe,  the  258. 
Boarhunt  53. 
Boar's  Hill  241. 

Boat  of  Garten  506.  518. 
BodelwYddan  284. 
Bodennick  Ferry  143. 
Bodiam  Castle  37. 
Bodlnndeb  289. 
Bodmin  153.  154. 

—  Koad  144. 
Bodyscallen  283. 
Biignor  53. 
Bnkerly  Dyke  102. 
Boldrewood  83. 

34 


530 


INDEX. 


Boleit  150. 
Bollin,  the  281. 
Bolsover  Castle  409. 
Bolton  337.  338.  344. 

—  Abbey  411.  412. 

—  Castle  417. 

—  Hall  411. 

—  le-Moors  344. 
Bonar  Bridge  520. 
Boncath  203. 
Boncliurcb  69. 

Bonne  Nuit  Harbour  94. 
Bonsall  372. 
Bont  Newydd  306. 
Boot  384.  390.  408. 
Bootle  336. 

Bordeaux  Harbour  88. 
Boredale  398.  397. 
Borgie,  the  523. 
Boroughbridge  417. 
Borrowdale  401. 
Borrowstounness  485. 
Borth  270. 

Bortbwick  Castle  468. 
Boscastle  157. 
Boscawen  150. 
Boscobel  265. 
Boscombe  95. 
Bosbam  55. 

Bosberstnn  Cburcb  214. 
Bospbrcnnis  151. 
Bossiney  Cove  156. 
Bossington    Beacon    165. 

169.  128. 
Boston  369.  437.  liii. 
Botbwell  Brig  4tO. 

—  Castle  490. 
Botlev  79. 

Bottallack  Mine  151. 
Boughrood  205. 
Bouley  Bay  94. 
Bourn  369. 
Bourne,  the  96.  98. 

—  End  218.  222. 
Bournemouth  95. 
Bourneville  263. 
Bourton  122. 
Boveney  Lock  222. 
Bovey  Tracey  130. 
Bow  136. 

Bowder  Stone  401. 
Bowerdale  407. 
Bowes  418. 
Bowfell  393. 
Bowling  493.  497. 
Bowness  386. 
Bowood  109. 
Bow  Street  270. 
Box  109. 
Boxgrove  55. 
Boxhill  46.  59. 
Boxley  Abbey  35. 
Boxmoor  253. 


Braan,  the  517. 
Bracelet  Bay  199. 
Bracklin  Falls  494. 
Bradda  Head  349. 
Braddan  348. 
Bradford  411.  345. 
on-Avon  107.  xxxv. 
Ivi. 
Bradgate  Park  360. 
Brading  68.  xxxiii. 
Bradley  264. 

—  House  130. 
Bradwell  367. 
Brae  526. 
Braemar  513. 
Braemore  522. 
Braich-y-Pwll  297. 
Braid  Hills  484. 
Braintree  439. 
Braithwaite  382.  402. 
Bramber  52. 
Bramley  107. 

Bran,  the  2U6.  203. 
Brancepeth  421. 
Brander  Pass  500.  502. 
Brandon  (Norfolk)  449. 

—  (Warwick)  257. 
Brandreth  407. 
Branksome  Tower  465. 
Bransford  Road  190. 
Brant  Fell  387. 
Brantwood  388. 
Brathay,  the  388.  390. 
Braunton  161. 

Bray  222. 
— ,  the  128. 
Braye  89. 
Brean  Down  127. 
Brechin  512. 
Brecknock  205. 
Brecon  205. 

—  Beacons  206. 
Brecqhou  90. 
Brede  41. 

Bredenstoke  Abbey  109. 
Bredon  184. 

Breidden  Hills,  the  268 
Brendon,  the  164. 

—  Hills,  the  128. 

—  Water  167. 
Brent  134. 
Brent  Knoll  127. 
Brentor  136. 
Brentwood  451. 
Bressay  526. 
Breydon  Water  458. 
Bridestowe  135. 
Bridge  Ball  168. 
Bridgend  197.  273. 

—  (Islay)  498. 
Bridgenorth  265. 
Bridtje-of-Allan  495. 

—  of  Cally  513.  518. 


Bridge-of-Dun  512. 

—  of-Earn  516. 
of  Orchy  507. 

Bridges  153. 
Bridgewater  Canal  338. 
Bridgnorth  188. 
Bridgwater  127. 
Bridlington  428. 

Quay  428. 
Bridport  97. 
Brig  of  Turk  494. 
Brightlingsea  451. 
Brighton  47. 
Brill  253. 
Brimscombe  170. 
Brislington  113. 
Brisons  151. 
Bristol  114.  xliii.  liii. 
Brit,  the  97. 
Britannia  Tubular  Bridge 

293. 
Briton  Ferry  193. 
Brixham  132. 
Brixton  (I.  of  Wight)  70. 
Brixworth  256.  xxxv. 
Broadford  501. 
Broadlands  82. 
Broads,  the  457. 
Broadstairs  24. 
Broadstone  96. 
Broadwater  53. 

—  Wood  36. 
Broadway  188. 
Brockenhurst  95.  83. 
Brocket  Hall  371. 
Brockhurst  79. 
Brocklev  44. 
Brodick  492. 
Brogar,  Bridge  of  525. 
Bromborough  328. 
Bromley  17. 
Bromsgrove  189. 
Bromyard  190. 
Bronwydd  Arms  209. 
Brooke  71. 
Brookwood  74, 
Broom  189. 

Brora  520. 
Broseley  188. 
Brothers'  Water  396. 
Brougham  Hall  832. 
Broughton  389.  384. 

—  Hall  281. 
Broughty  Ferry  509. 
Brown  Willy  154. 
Broxbourne  439. 
Broxburn,  the  468. 
Brnar  Falls  518. 
Brundall  455. 
Bryher  152. 
Brymbo  273. 
Bryngwvn  321. 
Brynkinalt  272. 


INDEX. 


531 


Bryntysilio  308. 
Buchley  2T3. 
Buchlyvie  4%. 
Buckfastleigh  134. 
Buckden  417. 
Buckhaven  508. 
Buckie  506. 
Buckingham  218. 
Buckland  135. 

—  Abbey  135. 

—  Monachorum  135. 
Buckley  273. 
Bucks  Mill  159. 
Buckstone,  the  176. 
Bude  153.  157. 
Budleigh  Salterton  103. 

105. 
Bugle  153. 

Buildwaa  Abbey  188. 
Builth  205. 

—  Road  207. 

Bull    Point  Lighthouse 

163. 
Bungay  453. 
Buntingford  439. 
Bure,  the  458. 
Burford  188. 

—  Bridge  46.  59. 
Burgh  Castle  458. 
Burgess  Hill  47. 
Burghead  505. 
Burghley  House  369. 
Burhou  89. 

Burn  of  the  Vat  514. 
Burnham  102.  127.  450. 

451. 
Burnley  345. 
Burnmoor  Tarn  394.  408, 
Burnmouth  468. 
Burns  Country  491. 
Burnswark  470. 
Burnthwaite  Farm  408. 

405. 
Bupon  89. 
Burntisland  508. 
Burray  525. 
Burry,  the  202. 
Burscough  336. 
Burslem  352. 
Bursledon  59. 
Burton  189. 

—  Dasset  Hills  243. 
Bury  344. 

—  Hill  60.  98. 

—  Lane  337. 

—  St.  Edmund's  459. 
xl. 

Buryas  Bridge  150. 
Bushey  253. 
Bute  498. 
Butterby  418. 
Buttermere  4U2. 

—  Hause  402. 


Buttington  267. 
Buxton  377. 
Bwlch  206. 

—  Cwm-y-Llan  327. 

—  Drws  Ardudwy  299. 

—  y-Felin  322. 

—  y-Groes  306.  269. 

—  y-Maen  323.  327. 

—  y-Maes-Cwm  319. 

—  y-Saethau  327. 

—  y-Tyddiad  299. 
Bwrdd  Arthur  295. 
Kyland  Abbey  416. 
Bynack  Lodge  512. 

Caburn  Mt.  42. 
Cad,  the  142. 
Cadbury  Camp  122. 

—  Castle  102. 
Cader  Fronwen  808. 

—  Idris  305.  301. 
Cadgwith  147.  146. 
Cadnam  83. 
Cadzow  490. 
Caergwrle  273. 
Caerhun  312. 
Caerlaverock  Castle  472. 
Caerleon  193. 
Caerphilly  Castle  195. 
Caersws  268. 
Caerwent  177. 
Cailleach  Head  522. 
Cainaird  River  522. 
Cairnbaan  499. 
Cairngorm  513. 
Caistor  Castle  458.  453. 

—  St.  Edmund  455. 
Calborne  72. 
Caldew,  the  382. 
Caldicot  Castle  177. 
Caldy  211. 

Caledonian  Canal  503.519. 
Calgarth  390. 
Callander  494. 
Callington  136. 

Calne  109. 
Calshot  Castle  74. 
Calstock  142. 
Calver  375. 
Calverley  411. 
Cam,  the  440.  446.  448. 
Camasunary  501. 
Camber  Castle  41. 
Cambo  424. 
Camborne  146. 
Cambridge    440.    xli.  Hi. 
Ivi. 

Addenbrooke's     Hos- 
pital 441. 

All  Saints'  Church  446 

Anatomical   Museum 
447. 

Archa'ol.  Museum  441 


Cambridge  : 
Backs,  the  440. 
Barnwell  Abbey  446. 
Boats  440. 

Botanic  Gardens  447. 
Castle  Mound  446. 
Cavendish  College  447. 
Christ's  Colle-e  447. 
Clare  Coll-ege  444. 
College  Grounds  442. 
Corpus  Christi  Coll. 443. 
Countv  Court  446. 

—  Gaol  446. 
Divinitv  and    Literary 

Schools  446. 
Downing  College  447. 
Emmanuel  College  447. 
Fellows'  Garden  444. 
Fitzwilliam    Mu,?eum 

441. 
Geological  Museum444. 
Girton  College  447. 
GonviUe    and    Caius 

College  444. 
Hobson's  Conduit  441. 
Holy  Trinity  Ch.  447. 
Jesus  College  446. 

—  Green  446. 
King's  College  443.  liii. 

—  Parade  443. 
Laboratories  447. 
Lensfield  Road  441. 
Magdalen   College  446. 
Market  St.  447. 
Midsummer  Common 

446. 
New  Museums  447. 
Newnham  College  442. 
Pembroke  College  442. 
Pepysian  Building  446. 
Peterhouse  441. 
Pitt  Press  442. 
Post  Office  440. 
Pythagoras  School  443. 
Queens'  Colle-e  442. 

Ivi. 
Railway  Station  440. 
Ridley  Hall  442. 
Roman  CatholicChurch 

441. 
Round  Church  446. 
St.  Andrew'.'^  Ch.  447. 

—  Benet's  Church  443. 
xxxvi. 

—  Botoli.h's  Ch.  442. 

—  Catharine's  Coll.  442. 

—  Clement's  Ch.  446. 

—  Giles'  Church  446. 

—  John's  College  445. 

—  Mary's    the    Great 
Church  444. 

Less  Ch.  442. 

—  Michael's  Ch.  444. 

34* 


532 


INDEX. 


Cambridge : 
St.  Paul's  Churcti  441. 

—  Peter's  Cliurcli  446. 
College  441. 

—  Sepulchre's  446. 
Schools  Q,uadrangle443. 
Science  Schools  443. 
Selwyn  College  442. 
Senate  House  444. 
Sidney  Sussex  Coll.  446. 
Trinity  College  444. 

—  Hail  444. 
Trumpington  St.  441. 
Union  446. 
Vniversity  Boat  Houses 

446. 

—  Cricket  Ground  441. 

—  Library  443. 

—  Obseryatory  446. 
Cambuskenneth  495. 
Camden  Town  253. 
Camel,  the  154. 
Camelford  154. 
Camelot  154. 
Camerton  122. 
Camlan.  the  303. 
Campbeltown  492. 
Campden  188. 
Campsie  Glen  496. 
Canisp  523. 
Cannock  Chase  353. 
Canobie  465. 
Canterbury  26.  xxxiv. 

xli.  xlii.  xliii.  lii. 
— ,  South  32. 
Canty  Bav  469. 
Capei  Curig  321. 

—  Garmon  313. 
Capstone  Hill  162. 
Carbis  Bay  148. 
Car  clew  145. 
Cardiff  194. 
Cardigan  203. 

—  Bay'  297. 
Cardington  363. 
Carduness  Castle  473- 
Cardrona  467. 
Cardross  506. 
Carew  Castle  212. 
Carham  465. 

Car  House  377. 
Carisbrooke  71.  72. 
Cark  884. 

Carlingwark  Loch  473. 
Carlisle  382.  412.  xlyii. 
Carl  Side  406. 
Carluke  471. 
Carmarthen  208. 
Carmarthen   Junction 
203. 

—  Van  206.  208. 
Carnaryon  295. 
Carnarvon  Mts.  312. 


Carn  Bran  150. 
Carnbrea  Hill  146. 
Carnedd  Dafvdd  292. 

—  Llevyelyn  292.  290.  312. 
Carnforth  381.  412. 
Carno,  the  268. 
Carnoustie  509. 
Carnwath  471. 
Carradale  492. 
Carrbridge  518. 
Carrog  303. 

Carron  Water  520. 
Carse  of  Cowrie  511. 
Carsphairu  473. 
Carstairs  471. 
Cart,  the  491. 
Cartland  Cra^s  491. 
Cartmel  384. 
Casquets  86. 
Castell  Coch  195. 

—  Carreg  Cennen  208. 

—  Lleinio£  294. 
Castle  Bromwich  189. 

—  Campbell  496. 

—  Gary  102. 

—  Douglas  473. 

—  Dinas  154. 

—  Head  400. 

—  Hedingham  451. 

—  Howard  426. 

—  Kennedy  474. 

—  Malwood  83. 

—  Mill  311. 

—  Risg  392. 

—  Rising  450. 
Castleton  (Derby)  376. 

367. 

—  (Portland)  97.      • 
Castletown  (Man)  348. 

—  (Scotland)  521. 
Castor  370. 
Caswell  Bay  200. 
Cat  Bells  400.  401. 
Caterham  45. 
Cattewater,  the  139.  140, 

142. 
Caudale  Moor  896. 
Cauldron,  the  214. 
Cayersham  Lock  221. 
Cawdor  Castle  505. 
Cawsand  135.  138.  141. 
Cefn  272. 

—  Bryn  201.  2a2. 

—  Caves  284. 

—  Ogo  285. 
Ceiriog,  the  272. 
Cemmes  Road  26S. 
Ceunant  Mawr  319. 
Chacewater  146. 
Chaddesden  358. 
Chadlield  113. 
Chagford  137. 
Chale  70. 


Chalfont  St.  Giles  252. 
Chalk  Farm  253. 

—  Water  168. 
Challich  522. 
Challow  103. 
Chambercombe  163. 
Chanctonbury  Ring  52. 
Channel  Islands  84. 
Chantry  Downs  64. 
Chapel-en-le-Frith    356. 

377. 

-  Stile  393/394. 
Chapman  Barrows  168. 
Chard  102. 
Chartield  181. 
Charlbury  188. 
Charlcombe  113. 
Charlecote  247.  250. 
Charlton-on-Otmoor  242. 

—  Kings  183. 
Charmouth  lu2. 
Charnwood  Forest  358. 
Chartham  14. 
Chartlev  353. 

Chase  Wood  102. 
Chatel-herault  490. 
Chatham  21. 
Chat  Moss  337. 
Chatsworth  375. 
Cheadle  365. 

-  Hulme  345. 
Cheddar  122. 
Cheddington  254. 
Chedworth  183. 
Cheedale  379. 
Chelmsford  451. 
Chelstield  12. 
Chelt,  the  182. 
Cheltenham  182. 
Chenies  252. 
Chepstow  177. 
Cheriton  Church  214. 

xliii. 
Cherry  Hinton  448. 
Chertsey  63.  223. 
Cherweil,  the  219.  242. 
Chesham  252. 
Cheshunt  439. 
Chesil  Eank  97, 
Chesilton  97. 
Chess  251.  252. 
Chester  273. 
Chesterfield  409. 
Chester-le-Street  422. 
Chesterton  243. 
Cheveuing  13. 
Cheviots,  the  464. 
Chichester  53. 
Chiddingstone  18. 
Childwall  Hall  836. 
Chilham  14. 
Chillingham  424. 
Chiltern  Green  364. 


INDEX 


533 


Chiltern  Hills  218.  254. 
Chilvvorth  46. 
Chinley  356. 

—  Churn  356. 
Chippenham  109. 
Chipping  Norton  188. 
Chirk  272.  311. 

—  Castle  3 LI.  272. 
Chislehurst  12. 
Chobham  Ridges  75. 
ChoUerford  426. 
Chorley  Wood  2.52. 
Christchurch  95.  liii. 
Christon  Bank  424. 
Chudleigh  130. 
Chudleigh's  Fort  160. 
Chun  Ca.stle  151. 
Churchdown  182, 
Church  StrettOH  181. 
Churn,  the  170. 
Churston  132. 
Churt  65. 
Chvsawster  151. 
Cilmerv  207. 

Cinn  Trolla  520. 
Cinque  Ports  40. 
Cirencester  170. 
Cis.shurv  Hill  53. 
Clach-a-Choin  499. 
Clack  Abbey  109. 
Clacton-on-Sea  452. 
Cladich  492. 
Claife  Hei-hts  388. 
Clandon  Park  64. 
Clapham  (London)  62. 

—  (Bedfordshire)  361. 

—  (York)  412. 
Clappersgate  398. 
Claremont  62. 
Claverdon  247. 
Claverton  112. 
Cleddau,  the  203. 
Cleethorpes  434. 
Cleeve  183. 

—  Abbey  12.S.   ■ 

—  Lock  2:0. 
Clent  Hills  263. 
Clevedon  122. 
Clevedon  Court  122.  Iv. 
Clieveden  222. 

Cliff  Sound  526. 
Clifford  Castle  204. 
Clifton  (Bristol)  119. 

—  (Westmorland)  392. 

—  Bridge  120    122. 

—  Down  120. 

—  Hampden  220. 

—  Lock  220. 
Clitheroe  344.  412. 
Clogwyn  du'r-Arddu  327 
Cloutsham  165. 
Clovellv  158. 

—  Cross  158. 


Clovenfords  467. 
Cluden,  the  472. 
Clumber  Park  36?. 
Clunie  504. 
Clwvd  Hills  273. 

Vale  28i. 
Clyde,  the  471.  487.  490. 

493.  etc. 
Clydesdale  470. 
Clvnderwen  203. 
Clvnnog  297. 
CoalbroDkdale  181. 
Coaley  182. 
Coalport  188. 
Coalville  360. 
Cobbinshaw  471. 
Cobbler,  the  506. 
Cobham  21. 

Hall  21. 
Cockburnspath  468. 
Cockenzie  469. 
Cockermouth  382. 
Cocking  61. 
Cockington  132. 
Cockpen  468. 
Cockshot  Mill  429. 
Codale  Tarn  393. 
Codnor  Castle  409. 
Codsall  265. 
Coed  Talon  281. 
Coilantogle  Ford  494. 
Coitv  Castle  197. 
Colbren  207. 
Colby  349. 

Colchester  451.  xxxiv. 
Coldharbour  60. 
Coldingham  46S. 
Coldstream  465.  424. 
Coldwell  Rocks  175. 
Cole  113. 

Coleshill  House  108. 
Colinton  484. 
Colintraive  498. 
Coll  500. 
Colne,  the  251.  253.  345. 

451. 
Colney  Hatch  371. 
Coltishall  458. 
Colwall  191. 
Colwieh  353. 
Colwith  393. 
Colwyn,  the  322. 

—  Bav  285. 
Colyton  103. 
Combe  Abbey  258. 

—  Martin  163.  164. 

—  Rowe  128. 

—  Valley  157. 
Cumbermere  Abbey  272. 
Compass  Point  157. 
Compton  64. 

—  Castle  132. 

—  Place  43. 


Comrie  510. 
Condover  Hall  267, 
Conegar  Hill  128. 
Congleton  346.  352. 
Congresbury  122. 
Conisburough  Castle  413. 
Conishead  Priory  384. 
Coniston  388.  384. 

Lake  388. 
Connah's  Quay  273.  283. 
Conon  519. 
Conwav  288. 
,  the' 285.  288.  312.  etc, 

Mt.  289. 
Cookham  218.  222. 
Cooksbridse  42. 
Cooks  Folly  121. 
Cooling  21. 
Coombe  &  Maiden  62. 
Coome  Crags  426. 
Cooper's  Hill  223. 
Copplestone  105. 
Coquet,  the  424. 
Cora  Linn  490. 
Corbiere.  La  93. 

the  88. 
Corbridse  426. 
Corbv  Hall  425. 
Corchester  426, 
Corehouse  490. 
Corfe  Castle  96.  97. 
Cornwall  143. 
— ,  Cape  151. 
Cornwood  134. 
Corpach  503. 
Corran  Narrows  503. 
Corrie  492. 

Corriemulzie  Falls  513. 
Corrievreehan  499. 
C orris  269. 
Corsham  109. 
Corstorphine484. 471.507. 
Cors-v-Gedol  299.  300. 
Corve,  the  181. 
Corwen  308.  285. 
Coryton  135. 
Cossington  127, 
Cotehele  142. 
Cotswold  Hills   170.  182. 
Cottingham  432. 
Coulbeg  522. 
Coulsden  45. 
Coupar  Angus  511. 
Countisbury  164.  168. 
County  Gate  164. 
Coventry  257.  li.  liii.  Iv. 
—  Canai  258. 
Coverack  146. 
Coverhithe  456. 
Co\vbrid.;e  197. 
Cowdenbeath  616. 
Cowdray  61.   Ivi. 
Cowes  74. 


534 


INDEX. 


Cowfold  52. 
Cow  garth  398. 
Cowlairs  486. 
Cowthorpe  430. 
Coxtoe  418. 
Coxwold  416. 
Crackington  Haven  154. 
Craduc  206. 
Craig-y-Bams  517. 

—  Cwin  Bychan  322. 

—  Dwrg  299. 
Craigellachie  518. 
Craigendarroch  514. 
Craigendoran  506. 
Craigenputtock  472. 
Craig-y-Llan  323. 
Craigmillar  484. 
Craignethan  480. 
Craignish  Point  499. 
Craig-y-Nos  206. 

Craig  Phadrig  519.  506. 
Crail  509. 
Cranbrook  14. 
Cranborne  Cbase  102. 
Cranbrook  Castle  137. 
Cranmere  Pool  138. 
CratMe  Church  514. 
Craven  Arms  181. 

—  District  412. 
Cray,  the  18. 
Crediton  105. 
Cree,  the  473. 
Creetown  478. 
Cregneesh  349. 
Crellas  151. 
Cremill  141. 

Creux  Mahie,  the  88. 

—  Derrible  90. 

—  des  Fees  88. 

—  de  Vis  94. 
Crewe  351.  345. 
Crewkerne  102. 
Crianlarich  502.  507. 
Crib-y-Ddysgyl   313.  319 

324. 

Goch  313.  324. 

Criccieth  297. 
Crich  Stand  373. 
Crichton  Castle  468. 
Crickhope  Linn  427. 
Crickhowell  193. 
Cricklade  108. 
Crieff  510. 
Criflfel  472. 
Crinan  Canal  498. 
Crohamhurst  44. 
Cromarty  519. 
Cromer  455. 
Cromford  373.  357. 
Crosby  336.  349. 
Crossford  490. 
Crowcombe  128. 
Crowhurst  41. 


Crowland  Abbey  370. 
Crowndale  136. 
Crows- an-Wra  150. 
Croxten  Abbey  852. 
Croxteth  Hall  336. 
Croydon  44. 
Crummock  Water  402. 
Crymmvch  Arms  203. 
Cuchullin  Hills  501. 
Cnckfield  47. 
Cuddesden  218.  242. 
Cudworth  409. 
Culbone  169. 
Culford  Hall  459. 
Cul garth  412. 
Culham  217. 
Culham  Lock  220. 
Culloden  Moor  505. 
Cullompton  129. 
Calm,  the  129. 
Culver  Hole  201. 
Cumnock  473. 
Cumnor  241.  218. 
Cupar  508. 
Currie  484. 

—  Hill  471. 
Cut  Hill  188. 
Cuxton  83. 

Cwm  Bychan  298. 
Croesor  323. 
Dwr  206. 
Dyli  326. 

—  Elan  205. 

—  Glas  320. 
Cwmhir  Abbey  207. 
Cwm  Llewelyn  205.  207. 

—  Penamnaen  315. 
Proeaor  308. 
v-Clogwyn  327. 
v-Glo  318. 
y-Llan  323.  327. 

Cyfarthfa  Castle  196. 
Cyfrwy  305. 
Cym  Cynfael  316. 
Cymmer  195. 

—  Abbey  303. 
Cynfael,  the  308.  316. 

316. 

—  Falls  316. 
Cynghordy  207. 
Cynicht  328. 

Dagenham  459. 
Dalbeattie  473. 
Dalemain  Hall  396. 
Dalegarth  Force  408.  389. 
Dalhousie  Castle  468. 
Dalkeith  468.  485. 
Dalmally  502.  492. 
Dalmeny  485.  507. 
Dalmuir  493. 
Dalnaspidal  518. 
Dalquharn  493. 


Dalreoch  506. 
Dalrv  478. 
Dalton  418. 
Dalwhinnie  518. 
Darent,  the  13.  33. 
Darenth  18. 
Darley  856. 
Dale  356. 
Darlington  418. 
Darnick  466. 
Darsham  456. 
Dart,  the  132.  133.  136 
Dartford  33. 
Dartington  134. 
Dartmoor  Forest  136. 105. 
Dartmouth  182. 
Datchet  223. 
Dauntsey  108. 
Dava  518. 
Daventrv  255. 
Dawlish  129. 
Daylesford  House  188. 
Day's  Lock  220. 
Dduallt  318. 
Deal  25. 

Dean  Forest  177. 
Deanshanger  254. 
Debatable  Ground  470. 
Dee,  the  (Aberdeen)  512. 

514. 
— ,  the  (Kirkcud.)  478. 
— ,  the  (Wales)  308.  272. 

274.  283.  328.  etc.  " 
Deepdale  396. 
Deepdene  59. 
Deerhurst  184. 
Deerness  525. 
Deeside  Hydropathic  514. 
Defford  184. 
Deganwy  288. 
Delabole  154. 
Delapre  Abbey  256. 
Denbies  59. 
Denbigh  284.  281. 
Dent  412. 

—  Dale  412. 
Derby  357.  190. 

—  Haven  349. 
Derbyshire  Peak  371. 
Dereham  449. 
Derrible  Bay  90. 
Derry  Lodge  518. 
Derry  Ormond  209. 
Dersingham  450. 
Derwen  285. 
Derwent,   the  356.  357. 

372.  375.  385.  401.  404. 

426.  etc. 
Derwentwater  899. 
DeviFs   Bridge  271. 

—  Dyke  51.  458. 

—  Jumps  65. 
Devizes  107. 


INDEX. 


535 


Devoke  Water  389. 
Devon  129. 
Devonport  139.  141. 
Devynock  206. 
Dewsbury  345. 
Dhoon  Glena  348. 
Didcot  107. 

Dieulacresse  Abbey  352 
Dilston  Castle  426. 
Dinas  297. 

—  Rran  309. 

—  Mawddwy  268.  306. 
Ding  Dong  Mine  151. 
Dinsle  335. 
Dingwall  519. 
Dinhara  Hill  105. 
Dinmore  Hill  180. 
Dinorwic  319. 
Dinting  366. 
Dinton  101. 
Diphwys  299.  300. 
Dirleton  469. 
Ditchling  Beacon  47. 
Dittisham  133. 
Ditton  351. 

Dixcart  Bav  90. 
Dochart,  the  517. 
Dockray  404. 
Dolaucothie  208, 
Dolbadarn  Castle  319. 
Doldowlod  205. 
Dolgarrog  312. 
Dolgelley  302. 
Dollar  496. 
Dolserau  306. 
Dolwyddelan  315. 
Doljvvern  311. 
Don,  the  366.  412.  etc. 
Doncaster  412. 
Donibristle  508. 
Doon,  the  491. 
Doone  Valley  167. 
Dorchester  (Dorset)  97. 

—  (near  Oxford)  220. 
Dore  &  Totley  409. 
Dorking  59.  46. 
Dornoch  520. 
Dorsetshire  96. 
Dorstone  192. 
Doublebois  144. 
Douglas  347. 
Doune  494. 

Dour,  the  16. 
Dousland  136. 
Dove,  the  190.  379. 
Dovedale  379. 
Dove  Holes  379. 

—  Nest  387.  390. 
Dover     15.     32.     xxxiii. 

xxxiv.     XXXV. 
Dovercourt  452 
Dovey,  the  268.  269.  270. 
Dow  Crag  389. 


Dowdeswell  103. 
Dowlais  192.  196. 
Downe  12. 
Downing  Hall  283. 
Downton  C  istle  181. 
Dozmare  Pool  14i. 
Dragon's  Hill  108. 
Drayton  53.  361. 

—  Bassett  189. 

—  Beauchamp  254. 
Drem  469. 
Drewsteignton  105. 
Driffield  432. 
Drift  150. 

Drigg  384.  408. 
Droitwich  187.  189. 
Dromore  473. 
Dropmore  222. 
Drumbeg  523.  ^ 
Drumburgh  384. 
Drumhain  501. 
Drumlanrig  Castle  472. 
Drummond  Castle  510. 
Drumnadrochit  504. 
Drws-y-Nant  306. 
Dryburgh  Abbey  467. 
Drysllwvn  Castle  208. 
Duart  5U0. 
Dubton  512. 
Duddon,  the  389.  384. 
Dudley  263. 
Duffield  357. 
Duffryn  Castell  269. 
Dufftown  518. 
Duffvvs  315.  318. 
Dukeries,  the  368. 
Dulverton  128. 
Dumbarton  493.  497. 
Dumfries  472. 
Dunball  127. 
Dunbar  468. 
Dunbeath  521. 
Dunblane  495. 
Duncannon  133. 
Duncansby  Head  521. 
Duncombe  416. 
Dundee  509. 
Dundonnell  622. 
Dundrennan  Abbey   473. 
Dundry  121. 
Dunfermline  516.  508. 
Dunford  Bridge  366. 
Dungeness  41. 
Dungeon  Gill  394.  408. 

Force  393. 

Dunion  Hill  466. 
Duniquoich  492. 
Dunkeld  516. 
Dunkery  Beacon  164. 165. 
Dunmail  Raise  Pa.s.s  391. 
Dunmallet  Hill  396. 
Dunmow  439. 
Dunnet  Head  521. 


Dunnottar  Ca.stle  510. 
Dunolly  Castle  499. 
Dunoon  492.  497. 
Dunphail  518. 
Dunraven  Castle  197. 
Dunrobin  Castle  520. 
Duns  465. 

Dunsinane  511.  516. 
Dunstable  254. 
Dunstaffnage  Castle  499  , 
Dunstall  Park  2G5. 
Dunstanburgh  Castle  424. 
Dunster  128. 
Dunton  Green  13. 
Dunwich  456. 
Durdham  Down  120. 
Durham   418.    xxxviii. 

xxxix.  xlv.  liv. 
Durness  523. 
Dursley  182. 
Durston  127.  102. 
Dutchman's  Cap  500. 
Dutv  Point  166. 
Dwfrdwv,  the  306. 
Dwygvfylchi  239. 
Dwyryd,  the  315.  316. 
Dvce  506. 
Dyffryn  299.  300. 
Dvfi,  see  Dovey. 
Dvmock  192. 
Dynevor  Castle  208. 
Dysart  508. 
Dyserth  284. 
Dysynni,  the  306. 

EaglesclifFe  417. 
Eamont,  the  396. 
Eardington  188. 
Eardisley  204. 
Earlestown  337. 
Earley  46. 

Earl's  Barton  256.  xxxvi. 
Earlston  465. 
Earlswood  46. 
Easbv  Abbey  418. 
Easedale  Tarn  393.  394. 
Eastbourne  42. 
East  Cowes  74. 

—  Grinstead  42.  45. 
Eastham  344. 

—  Ferry  328. 
East  Harlsey  417. 

—  Hartlepool  417. 

—  Horndon  459. 
Eastleigh  79. 
East  Linton  469. 
Eastnor  Park  191. 
Eastwell  14. 
Eaton  Bridge  280. 

Hall  280. 
Ebbslleet  24. 
Ecclefechan  470. 
Eccles  337. 


536 


INDEX. 


Ecclesbourne  Glen  40. 
Eccleston  Ferry  280. 
Eckington  184. 
Ecton  361. 
Ed  ale  3T7.  368. 
Eday  525. 

Eddv8toneLighth.i42/143. 
Eden,   the  303.  382.  412. 
Edenbridge  13. 
Eden  Hall  382. 
Edensor  374. 
Edgcumbe,  Mt.  141. 
Edgehill  242.  337.  351. 
Edinburgh  474.  liv. 

Advocates  Library  479. 

Alexander  <fe  Bucepha- 
lus monument  483. 

Antiquarian  Mus.  483. 

Arboretum  483. 

Arthur's  Seat  480. 

Assembly  Hall  478. 

Bank   of  Scotland  478. 

Black's  Statue  477. 

Blackford  Hill  484. 

Botanic  Garden  483. 

Bruntsfield  Links   4S1. 

Buccleuch's  Statue  479. 

Burns's  Blonument  481. 

Calton  Hill  480. 

Canongate  479. 

—  Church  479. 
Castle  477. 
Castle  Street  483. 
Chalmers's  Statae  483. 
Charles's  II.  Statue  479. 
Charlotte  Square  483, 
City  Cross  479. 
Commercial  Bank  483. 
Corstorphine  Hill  484. 
Cowgate  481. 
Craigmillar  Castle  484. 
Dean  Bridge  482. 

—  Cemetery  482. 
Donaldson's    Hospital 

4S1.  482. 

Duddingston  Loch  480. 

Dumbiedykes  480. 

Dunsappie  Loch  480. 

East  Princes  Street 
Gardens  477. 

Excursions  484. 

Exhibition  of  the  Scot- 
tish Academy  477. 

Fettes  College  482.  483. 

Free  Church  Assembly 
Hall  478. 

College  477. 

Free  Library  478. 

George  IV. 'sStatue  483. 

—  Square  481. 

—  Street  483.  476. 
Gillespie's  Inst.  481. 
Grange   Cemetery  483. 


Edinburgh: 

Grassmarket  483. 
Greyfriars'  Church  482, 
Hawthornden  48i. 
Heart  of  Midlothian  479. 
Heriot's  Hospital  481. 
High  School  481. 
Holyrood  Palace  480. 
Infirmary  481. 
Inverleith  Park  483. 
John  Knox's  House  479. 
Law  Courts  479. 
Leith  483. 
Livingstone's    Statue 

477. 
Martyrs'  Mon.  480. 
Meadows  480.  481. 
Medical  School  481. 
Melville  Monument  483. 
Merchant  Company's 

Schools  481. 
Merchiston  Castle   483. 
Moray  House  479. 
Mound  477. 
Museum      of      Science 

&  Art  481. 
Music  Hall  483. 
National  Gallery  477, 

—  Monument  481. 

—  Portrait  Gall,  483. 
Nelson  Monument  480. 
New  Calton  Burial 

Ground  481. 
Newin^ton  480, 
New  Town  476, 
North  Bridge  481. 
Observatory  484. 
Old     Calton     Burial 

Ground  480. 
Old  Town  476. 
Parliament  House  479. 
Pitt's  Statue  483. 
Post  Office  475.  480. 
Prince  Albert's  Statue 

483. 
Princes  Street  476. 
Prison  4S0. 
Queen's  Drive  480. 
Queensferry  Street  482. 
Queen's  Park  480. 
Queen  Street  477. 
Railway  Stations   474. 

482. 
Eamsay's  Statue  477. 
Register  House  480. 
Royal   Institution   477. 
St.  Andrew's  Ch.  483. 
Square  483. 

—  Antony's  Chap.  480. 

—  Cuthbert's  Ch.  482. 

—  George's  Church  483. 

—  Giles's  Church  478. 

—  John's  Church  482. 


Edinburgh  : 
St.  Margaret's  Loch  480. 

—  3Iary's  Cathedral  482. 
Salisbury  Crags  480. 
Scott  Monument  477, 
Sheriff  Court  478, 
Simpson's  Mon.  482. 
South  Bridge  481. 
Statue  Gallery  477. 
Stewart's  College  481. 

—  Monument  480. 
Theatres  475. 
Tolbooth  479. 
Trinity  Church  482. 

—  House  483. 
Tron  Church  479. 
Union  Bank  483. 
University  481. 
Warriston   Cem.  483. 
Water  of  Leith  482. 
Watt  College  481. 
Waverley  Market  480. 
Wellins;ton's  Statue480. 
West  Church  482. 

—  Princes  Street  Gar- 
dens 477.  482. 

Wilsons's  Statue  477. 
Edington  113. 
Edmonton  439. 
Ednam  465. 
Edrachillis  Bav  523. 
Edw,  the  205. 
Edwinstowe  409. 
Edzell  511.  512. 
Eel  Pie  Island  224. 
Eflt'ord  Beacon  157. 
Eglinton  Castle  491. 
Eglishay  525. 
Egloskerry  153. 
Eglwyseg  Rocks  310. 
Eglwvs  Fach  269. 
—  Newydd  271. 
Eigg  5')0. 

Eildon  Hills,  the  466. 
Elan,  the  205. 
Elderslie  497. 
Elgin  505.  518. 
Elham  Valley  32. 
Elidvr  Fawr  320. 
Elie"509. 

Eliseg's  Pillar  310. 
Ellen's  Isle  494. 
Ellerav  387.  390. 
Ellesmere  273. 
EUisland  472. 
Elstow  363. 
Elswick  423.  424. 
Elterwater  393. 
Eltham  33. 
Elvanfoot  470. 
Elvaston  Castle  358. 
Elvetham  House  75. 
Elwy,  the  284. 


INDEX. 


537 


Ely  (Cambridge)  448. 
xlii.    xlv.    xlvi.    xlvii 
xlviii.  xlix.  lii,  liv. 

—  (Wales)  196. 
— ,  the  197. 
Emsworth  55. 
Enard  Bav  522. 
Enfield  439. 
Ennerdale  402.  405. 

—  Water  402. 
Enville  265. 
Epping  Forest  439. 
Epsom  yH.  62. 
Erddig  Hall  272. 
Erdington  263. 
Erewash,  the  408. 
Eridse  36.  37. 
Erme,  the  134. 
Escombe  Ch.  422.  xxxv 
Esher  62.    • 

Esk,  the  (Dumfries)  464. 
— ,  the  (Yorkshire)  428. 
— ,  the  North  484. 
— ,  the  South  510. 
Eskbank  468. 
Eskilale  3s9. 
Esk  Jlause  405.  394. 
Essondine  369. 
Esthwaite  Water  388. 
Etchiugham  37. 
Etherow,  the  366. 
Eton  106.  222. 
Ettrick  Forest  467. 
Etruria  352. 
Evan,  the  470. 
Evenlode,  the  189. 
Evei-creech  113. 
Everley  428. 
Eversley  75. 
Evesham  188. 
Ewebarrow  406. 
Ewe  Island  522. 
Evvenny  Priory  197. 
Ewell  32. 
Ewloe  Castle  281. 
Exe,  the  103. 128. 129.  164. 

—  Head  Hill  168. 
Exeter   103.    xliv.  xlviii. 
Ex  ford  164. 
Exminster  129. 
Exmoor  Forest  164.   128. 
Exmoulh  105. 

Evam  376. 
Eye,  the  468. 
Eye  Green  370. 
Eyemouth  468. 

Fairfield  378. 

—  Mt.  392.  395. 
Fairford  189.    lii. 
Fair  Isle  526. 
Fairlight  Glen  41. 
Fairy  Cross  160.  | 


Fi.iry  Glen  314.  289. 
Fakenham  456. 
Fal,  the  144.  145. 
Falkirk  486. 
Falkland  508. 
Falmer  52. 
Falmouth  145. 
Fareham  58. 
Farin'idon   10^. 
Faringtun  380. 
Farley  Castle  112. 
Farnborough  75. 
Farncombe  64. 
Fame  Isles  424. 
Farnham  (Surrev)  75. 

—  (Wilts)  102.  ■ 
Farningham  18. 
Farningham  Road  18. 
Farnlev  Hall  410. 
Farnwbrth  338. 
Farringford  73. 

Far  Sawrey  388. 
Fast  Castle  468. 
Faversham  22. 
Favs^kham  18. 
Fawlev  178. 
Fearn  520. 
F earn an  517. 
Featherstonehaugh  420. 
Felbri-g  Hall  455. 
Felixstowe  453. 
Fell  Foot  390.  393. 
Fender  Falls  518. 
Fen  District  448. 
Fendom  More  520. 
Fennv  Compton  242. 

Stratford  363. 
Fermain  Bay  87. 
Fernhill  Heath  189. 
Ferniherst  Castle  466. 
Ferrvhill  .Junction  418. 
Ferrvside  202. 
Fetlar  526. 
Ffestiniog  316. 
Field  Place  Gl. 
Filev  428. 
Filton  121. 
Finchale  Priorv  421. 
Findhorn  Glcn"505. 
FingaFs  Cave  500. 
Firle  Beacon  42. 
Firth   of  Forth  476.  482. 

of  Lorn  499.  5;0. 

—  of  Tay  511. 
Fishbourne  68. 
Fisher  Gill  406. 
Fisherrow  470. 
Fisherwick  356. 
Fishguard  203. 
Fishhouse  68. 
Fish  Ponds  181. 
Fistard  349. 
Fitful  Head  526. 


Fitzford  136. 
Five  Lanes  153. 

—  Oaks  93. 
Fladbury  188. 
Flamborough   Head  428. 
Flax-Bourton  122. 
Flaxley  Abbev  174. 
Fleet  75. 

Fleetwood  381. 
Fletching  45. 
Flicquet  Bay  93. 
Flint  283. 
Flintshire  283. 
Flodden  465. 
Floors  Castle  465. 
Floriston  470. 
Floutern  Tarn  402. 
Flowerdale  505. 
Flushing  145. 
Fochabers  506. 
Foel  Llys  289. 
Foinaven  523. 
Folkestone  15.  14. 
Fonthill  Abbev  101. 
Ford   (Argyll)    498.    500. 

—  (Devon)'  138.  160. 

—  (Sussex)  53. 

—  Abbey  102. 

—  of  Tarff  512. 
Fordoun  510. 
Foreland,  the  168. 
Forest  Hill  44. 

—  Lodge  512. 
Forfar  511. 
Forge  Vallev  428. 
Foriuby  336." 
Forraburv  157. 
Forres  5()5.  518. 
Forse  521. 
Forsinard  521. 
Forss  Water  523. 
Fort,  the  97. 
Fort  Augustus  503. 

William  503. 
Forter  Castle  511. 
Forth,  the  495.  496.  etc. 

—  Bridge,  the  485.  507. 

—  &  Clvde  Canal  493. 
Fortvose  519. 
Fotheringay  256.  370. 
Fountains  Abbev  431. 
Foula  526. 

Four  Ashes  265. 
Fowey  144. 
Foxdale  349. 
Foxlield  3^4. 
Fox  Hills  75. 
Howe  390. 
Foyers,  Fall  of  504. 
Framlingliam  456. 
Frant  37. 
Fraserburgh  506. 
Frafton  Junction  56. 


538 


INDEX. 


Fremington  161. 
Frensham  Great  Pond  65. 
Freshford  113. 
Freshwater  72.  73. 
Friar's  Crag  400. 
Friday  Street  60. 
Fridd-Du  290. 
Frocester  182.  Ivi. 
Frodsham  281. 
Frome  122.  109.  114. 
— ,  the  97. 
Frongoch  307. 
Frwdgrech  Falls  206. 
Fullerton  82. 
Furnace  269. 
Furness  Abbev  8S4. 
Fusedale  398.* 
Fushiebridge  468. 

Gad's  Hill  21.  33. 
Gaerwen  295. 
Gainsborough  437. 
Gairloch  505. 
Gairlochy  503. 
Galashiels  467. 
Gala  Water,  the  467.  468. 
Gallantrv  Bower  159. 
Gallowav  473. 
Gallt-v-Bladur  270. 

—  y-Foel  313. 
Ganllwvd  Glen  302.  303. 
Garawalt  Falls  513. 
Garbourn  Pass  398. 
Gareloch  506. 

—  Head  506. 
Gargunnock  496. 
Garliestown  474. 
Garlinge  24. 
Garrick's  Villa  224. 
Garrv.  the  518. 

—  Bridge  518. 
Garstang  381. 
Garston  333.  351. 
Garth  Point  291, 
Gartness  496. 
Garve  519. 
Gatcombe  Park  71. 
Gatehouse   of  Fleet  473 
Gatessarth  402.  405. 
Gateshead  422. 
Gatton  45. 

Gauer  Water  507. 
Gaunt  House  242. 
Gavenny,  the  192. 
Gawsworth  352. 
Georgeham  163. 
Georgemas  521. 
Gidlei-h  Castle  137. 
Gilling  416. 
Gillingham  22.  102. 
Gilsland  Spa  425. 
Giltar  Point  211. 
Gipping,  the  452. 


Gipsy  Hill  44. 
Girvan  491. 
Glamis  511. 
Glamorganshire  193. 
Glan  Conwav  312. 
Glandovey  269.  270. 
Glaramara  401.  405. 
Glasbury  204. 
Glasgow  486. 

Alexandra  Park  490. 

Argvle  Street  489. 

Bank  of  Scotland  488. 

Barony  Church  488. 

Botanic  Gardens  489. 

Broomielaw  488. 

Buchanan  St.  489. 

Camp  Hill  489. 

Cathcart  Castle  490. 

Cathedral  488. 

Common  Hall  489. 

Corporation  Gall.  4S9. 

Cross  489. 

Docks  488. 

Excursions  490. 

George  Square  488. 

Glasgow  Bridge  488. 

—  Green  488. 
Harbour  488. 
High  Street  488. 
Hunterian  Museum  489. 
Industries  487. 
Kelvin  489. 
Kelvingmve  Park  489. 
Lansside  490. 
Mitchell  Library  489. 
Merchants'  House  488. 
Municipal  Build.  488. 
Xecropolis  488. 
Nelson's  Mon.  488. 
Post  Office  486.  488. 
Queen's  Park  489. 
Railway  Stations  486. 
Eoyal  Exchange  489. 

—  "intirmarv  488. 
Saltmarket"489. 
Sauchiehall  Street  489, 
Shipbuilding  487. 
Statues  488.  489. 
Theatres  486. 

Tron  Church  489. 

Trongate  489. 

Union  Street  489. 

University  489. 

Victoria  Infirmary  490 

West  End  Park  489. 

Western  Infirmary  489 
Glaslyn,  the322.323.  32tJ 
Glasney  Abbey  146. 
Glas-Pwll  270. 
Glastonbury  125.  xxxiv 

xxxix.  xlii.  xliii.    Ivi 
Glasven  523. 
Glazebrook  838. 


Glazeburv  337. 

Glen  Affric  519. 

Arav  492. 

—  Callater  513. 

—  Cannich  519. 
lencaple  472. 

Glen  Clunie  513, 
Glencoe  502. 
Glencoin  404. 
Glencroe  492. 
Glen  Erichdie  518. 
Glen  Falloch  493.  507. 
Glenfarg  516. 
Glen  Helen  349. 
Glenisla  511. 
Glen  Loth  520. 
Glenluce  474. 
Glenlvn  166. 
Glen  Nant  500. 

—  Nevis  503. 

—  Ogle  502. 
Glenorchy  502. 
Glenriddini  398. 
Glen  Rosa  492. 

—  Roy  507. 

—  Sannox  492. 
Glenshee  513. 

Glen  Shiel  503.  504.  519. 

—  Sligachan  501. 

—  Strathfarrar  519. 
Glenthorne  168.  169. 
Glen  Tilt  512. 
Gloddaeth  House  288. 
Glomach  Falls  519. 
Glossop  366. 
Gloucester   170.    xxxvii. 

xlix.  1.  lii.  liv. 
Glutton  Dale  379. 
Glvders,  the  315.  320. 
Glyn  Ceiriog  310.  311. 
Glvnde  42. 
GlVndvfrdwy  308, 
Glyn  is'eath  198. 
Goatfell  492. 
Goats  Water  389. 
Gobowen  268.  272. 
Godalming  64. 
Godlev  356. 
Godshill  71, 
Godstone  13, 
Godstow  Nunnery  242. 
Gosar  485. 
Gogarth  Abbey  287, 
Gogmagog  Hills  440, 
Golden  Grove  208. 
Goldrill  Beck  396. 
Golspie  520. 
Gometray  500. 
Gomshall  46. 
Goodrich  175. 
Goodwic  203. 
Goodwin  Sands  24. 
Goodwood  55. 


INDEX. 


539 


Gordale  Scar  412. 
Gordon  Castle  506. 
Gorebridge  468. 
Gorey  92. 
Goring  107.  220. 
G  cries  ton  458. 
Gorphwvsfa  321.  326. 
Gosforth  4U8. 
Gosport  58.  80. 
Goudhurst  14. 
Gouffre,  the  88. 
Gourock  497. 
Govan  497. 
Gowbarrow  397.  404. 
Gower  Peninsula  200. 
Gowerton  20-2.  208. 
Goyt,  the  356. 
Grabhurst  Hill  128. 
Grampound  Road  144. 
Grandborough  Road  253. 
Grange  384.  401. 

—  Court  173. 
Grantchester  448. 
Grantham  368. 
Granton  484. 
Grantown  518. 
Grant's  House  468. 
Grasmere  394. 
Grately  98. 
Gravesend  33.  18. 
Grays  459. 

Great  Berkhampstead253. 

—  Brington  256. 

—  Chesterford  440. 

—  Doward  175. 

—  Durnford  101. 

—  End  405.  407. 

—  Gable  407.  405.  403. 

—  Grimsbv  434. 

—  Haldon,  the  129. 

—  Hangman  164. 

—  How,  the  391. 

—  Lansdale  393.  390. 

—  Links  Tor  135. 

—  Malvern  190. 

—  Marlow  222. 

—  Missenden  252. 

—  Orme's  Head  286. 

—  Rocks  Dale  356. 
Greeba  348.  349. 
Greenaley  169. 

—  Point  128. 
Greenfield  345. 
Green  Gable  4(.t5.  407. 
Greenhithe  33. 
Green  Lane  336. 
Greenloaning  510. 
Greenock  497. 
Greenodd  388. 
Greenside  404. 
Greenup  Edge  395. 
Greenwav  House  133. 
Gresford"273. 


Greta,  the  382.  399. 
Gretna  Green  464.  471. 

—  Junction  470. 
Greve  au  Lancon  94. 

—  de  Lecq  94'. 
Grer  Knotts  407. 

—  Mare's  Tail   437. 
GrcTStoke  404. 
Griff  258. 
Grimspound  137. 
Grindleford  Bridge  376. 
Grisedale  Pass   395. 
Grongar  Hill  208. 
Groombridge  42.  37. 
Grosmont  Castle  176. 
Grosnez,  Cape  94. 
Grouville  92. 

Grove  Park  12. 
Growar  156. 
Gruinard  522. 
Guernsey  86. 
Guildford  63.  46. 
Guilsfield  268. 
Guisborough  429. 
Gulberwick  526. 
Gull  Rock  88.  147. 
Gull's  Bridge  526. 
Gulval  149. 
Gumfreston  212. 
Gumnier's  How  387. 
Gunnislake  136, 
Gunton  455. 
Gunwalloe  146. 
Gurt  Down  161. 
Guthrie  512. 
Guy's  Cliff  245. 
Gweek  145. 
Gwennap  146. 
Gwili,  the  209. 
Gwinear  Ro:id  146. 
Gwithian  148. 
Gwrfai,  the  321. 
Gwrych  285. 
Gwydir  Castle  312. 

Haekfall  Woods  431. 
Hackness  428. 
Haddington  469. 
Had  don  Hall  373. 
Hadleieh  459. 
Hadnail  271. 
Hafod  271. 
Haglev  265. 
Hailsliam  37. 
Halesowen  Church  263 
Halesworth  456. 
Halifax  411.  345. 
Halkirk  521. 
Hallamshire  366. 
Hallatrow  121. 
Halliford  223. 
Hallin  Fell  397. 
Hall-in-the-Wood  3U. 


Halstead  12.  451. 
Haltwhistle  426. 
Halwill  153. 
Hamble,  the  79.  82. 
Hambledon  Lock  221. 
Hambleton  Hills  417. 
Hamilton  490. 
Hamoaze,  the  139.  141. 
Hampshire  55. 
Hampton  224.  258. 

—  Court  62.  224. 

—  Load  188. 

—  Lucv  Church  251. 
Ham  Street  41. 
Hamworthy  96. 
Handa,  isl.  523. 
Handborough  189. 
Handsworth  262.  263. 
Hangman  Hill  164. 
Ilanley  352. 
Hanois  Rocks  88. 
Hants  55. 
Hanwood  267. 
Harbledovvn  32. 
Hardknott  Castle  390. 
Hardraw  Force  418. 
Hardwick  Hall  409. 

—  House  221. 
Harefield  251. 
Harewood  House  429. 
Harlech  298. 
Harleston  256. 
Harlow  Hill  430. 
Haroldswick  526. 
Harpenden  364. 
Harrrigate  429. 
Harrow  253. 

—  on-the-Hill   251. 
Hart  Crag  399. 
Hartford  351.  281. 
Hartington  379. 
Hartland  157.  159. 
Hartlebury  187. 
Hartlepool  417.  418. 
Hartshill  356. 
Harwich  452. 
Haslemere  64. 
Hassendean  465. 
Hassocks  47. 
Hastiuiis  39. 

Hat  Held  371. 
Hatherleigh  135. 
Hathersage  376. 
Hat  ton  247. 

Haughley  Road  453.  459. 
Haughmond  Abbey   267. 
Hauteville  House  87. 
Havant  56.  66. 
Haven  Street  68. 
Haverfordwe.'^t  203. 
Haverhill  451. 
Havre  Gosselin  90. 
Hawarden  281.   273. 


540 


INDEX. 


Hawes  412.  417. 

—  Water  393. 
Hawick  465. 
Hawkhiirst  14. 
Hawkshead  3S8. 
Haworth  411. 
Hawthornden  484. 
Hay  204.    192. 
Havburn  Wyke  423. 
Haydon  Bridge  426. 
Haves  Place  17. 

—  Water  396.  398. 
Hayle  148. 
Hayiing  56.  _ 
Haymarket  507. 
Havstacks  405. 
Haytor  130.  134. 
Hayward's  Heath  47. 
Heacham  450. 
Heading! ey  410. 
Heale  House  101. 
Heathl'.eld  130. 
Hebrides,  the  505. 
Heckington  xlvii. 
Heddon's  Mouth  165. 168. 
Hedaor  222. 

Heeley  367. 
Heigh  am  455. 
Heilim  523. 
Hele  163. 

Helensburgh  506.  491. 
Helesborousfh  162. 
Helford  Passase  145.  146. 
Hellilield  412.^ 
Helm  Crag  391.  394. 
Helmsdale  520. 
Helmslev  416. 
Helsbv  231.  328. 
Helston  146.  145. 
Helvellvn  395.  398.  406. 
Hemel  Hampstead   253. 
Hendon  365. 
Henfield  52. 
Hengistbury  Head  95. 
Hengoed  195. 
Hensrave  Hall  459. 
Henlev  221. 
Henllys  294. 
HennacUff  157. 
HensbaiTOw  144.  153. 
Henwick  190. 
Hereford  178.  192.  xlvii. 

xlviii.  liv.  Iv. 
Herefordshire  174. 

—  Beacon  191. 
Herm  88. 
Heme  Bav  23. 

—  Hill  17. 
Heron  Court  96. 
Hertford  371. 
Hest  Bank  381. 
Hever  13.  36. 
Hevtesburv  113. 


Hexham  426. 
Higham  83. 

—  Ferrers  256. 
Highbridge  127. 
Highclere  Castle  107. 
High  Crag  405. 

—  Cross  388.  393. 
Highdown  Hill  53. 
High  Force  418.  404. 
Highley  188. 
Highnam  173. 
High  Pennard  200. 

Raise  395. 
Side  406. 

—  Street  398. 

—  Tor,  the  373.  201. 
Highwnrth  108. 
High  Wycombe  218. 
Hildenborough  13. 
Hillside  510.  512. 
Hillswick  526. 
Hinchingbrook  371. 
Hindhead  65. 
Hindon  101. 
Hinton  Admiral  95. 
Hirnant  Vallev  307. 
Hirwain  196.  i9S. 
Hitchin  363.  371. 
Hnbbes  Point  214. 
Hobbv  Drive  158.  160. 
Hockiev  263. 
Hodireston  Church  213. 
Hog's  Back,  the  64. 
Holbeck  411. 

Holker  Hall  334. 
Holkham  450. 
Hollardv  Hill  168. 
Hollingsburv  Hill  51. 
Holme  370. 

—  Lacy  178. 
Holmesley  96. 
Holmwond  61. 
Holne  134. 

—  Chase  134. 
Holnicote  165. 
Holstone  Down  165. 
Holsworthv  153. 

—  &  Bude"  Canal  153. 
158. 

Holt  107. 
Holvhead  295. 
Holv  Island  424. 

—  Loch  497. 
Holvtown  486.  471. 
HolvweH  283. 
Hoiidda  205. 
Honeybourne  188. 
Honister  Hause  402. 
Honiton  103. 
Honor  Oak  Park  44. 
Hoo  33. 

Hook  75. 
Hooton  328. 


Hope  (Flint)  273.  231. 

—  (Derby)  367.  376. 
Dale  376. 

— ,  the  523. 
Hopeman  505. 
Hopetoun  485. 
Horley  46. 
Hornby  Castle  417, 
Horncastle  437. 
Hornchurch  459. 
Horner  Woods  165. 
Hornsea  433. 
Horrabridge  135- 
Horrinsford  71.  68. 
Horsham   61.  52. 

—  Steps  130. 
Horsmonden  14. 
Horsted  Keynes  45. 
Horton  201. 
Horton  Kirbv  18. 
Houghall  421. 
Houle,  La  94. 
Housel  Cove  147. 
Housesteads  426. 
Hove  51. 
Howden  413.  liv. 
Howtown  398. 
Hoxa  525. 

Hov  525. 

Hovlake  283.  336. 
Hovle^s  Mnuth  211. 
Hucknall  Torkard  439. 
Huddersfield  345. 
Hughenden  Manor  218. 
Hush  Town  152. 
Hun  432.  liii, 
Humber,  the  433. 
Huna  521. 
Hungerford  107. 
Hunstanton  Hall  450. 

—  St.  Edmunds's  450. 
Hunter's  Inn  165. 
Huntingdon  370.  361. 
Huntlv  506. 
HurleV  Lock  221. 
Hursley  79. 
Hurstbourne  98. 
Hurst  Castle  95. 
Hurstmonceaux  52. 
Hurstpierpoint  Park    47. 
Huvton  337. 

Hythe  14.  74.  82. 

Icart  Bay  88. 
Icklesham  41. 
Ickleton  Street  107. 
Icknield  Street  355. 
Ickw.irth  House  459. 
Icolmkill  500. 
Iffley  218.  219.  242. 

xxxix. 
lehtham  Moat  13. 
llford  Bridges  168. 


INDEX. 


541 


Ufracombe  161. 
Ilkeston  409. 
Ilkley  410.  429. 
Illgill  Head  407.  403. 
llminster  102. 
Ilsham  Grange  132. 
Ilston  Vallev  202. 
Ince  Hall  336. 
Inchcape  510. 
Incht;arvie,  isl.  50S. 
Inchkeitli  5(8. 
IncLnadampli  520. 
lugestre  353. 
Ingleborougli  412. 
Ingleton  412. 
Ingress  Abbey  33. 
Innellan  497.  _ 
Innerleithen  467. 
Innerwick  468. 
Instow  Quay  160. 
Inveramsay  506. 
Inveraray  492. 
Inverarigaig  504. 
Inverarnan  493. 
Invercannich  519. 
luvercauld  514. 

—  Bridge  513. 
Inverchapel  492. 
Inveresk  469. 
Invergarry  Castle  503. 
Invergorden  519. 
Inverkeithing  508. 
Invermorist'in  504. 
Inverness  504. 
Invcrpully  522. 
Invershin  520. 
Inversnaid  493. 
Invernglas  Water  507. 
Inverurie  506. 

lona  500. 
Ipswich  452. 
Irk  339. 
Iroubridge  188. 
Irongray  472. 
Irthing,  the  425. 
Irvine  491. 
Irwell,  the  337.  339. 
Ise,  the  361. 
Isis,  the  217. 
Isla,  the  511. 
Islav  498. 
Isle  of  Grain  33. 
Islip  218.  361. 
Itchen,  the  79.  80. 
Ifhon,  the  207. 
Ivy  Bridge  134. 

—  Castle  88. 

James  Green  201. 
Janvrin  Island  93. 
.1  arrow  424.  xxxv. 
Jedburgh  465. 
Jenkin's  Crag  392. 


Jerbourg  Cape  88. 

Jersey  90. 

Jervaulx  Abbey  417. 

Jesmond  Dene  424. 

Jethou  88. 

John  o'  Groat's  House521. 

Johnston  204. 

Joppa  470. 

Jordans  252. 

Juniper  Hall  6U. 

Jura  497.  499. 

Kearsney  32. 
Keeston  Hill  214. 
Keighlev  411. 
Keiss  521. 
Keith  506, 
Kelso  465. 
Kelvedon  451. 
Kemble  170. 
Kern]. lev  192. 
Kendal  381. 
Kenil worth  246. 
Kenmore  517. 
Kennet,  the  107.  221. 
Kent  18. 

,  the  384. 
Kentmere  398. 
Kent's  Cavern  132. 
Kenyon  337. 
Kepier  Hospital  421. 
Keppelcove  Tarn  399. 
Kerne  Bridge  175. 
Kerrera  499. 
Kerrv  268. 
Kerrydale  505. 
Kershope  Foot  465. 
Keskadale  402. 
Keston  Common  17. 
Keswick  399. 
Kettering  361. 
Kettlewell  417. 
Keymer  Junction  42.  47 
Keynsham  113. 
Kidderminster  263. 
Kidlingtun  242. 
Kidsty  Pike  398. 
Kidwellv  202. 
Rilbowie  487. 
Kilburn  253. 
Kilchurn  Castle  498. 
Kildonan  521. 
Kilgerran  2u3. 
Kilkhampton  157.  158 
Killav  200.  202. 
Killearn  496. 
Killiecrankie  518. 
Killin  510.  502.  517. 
Killingwovth  42i. 
Kilmarnock  473. 
Kilmellort  498.  500. 
Kil.n„rack  Falls  519. 
Kilpeck  192.   180. 


IKilsby  255. 

Kiltearn.  Bl.  Kock  of  519. 
Kilvroiigh  House  202. 
Kilwinning  491. 
Kimbulton  361. 
Kinder  Scout  377. 
Kineton  242. 
Kinghorn  508. 
Kingsbridge  134. 
Kingsclere  98. 
Kingsdown  25. 
Kingsgate  24. 
Kingshouse  507. 
King3kerswell_130. 
King's  Lvnn  4-00. 

Sutton  242. 
Kingston  (I.  of  Wight)  70. 

—  (on  Thames)  224. 
Lisle  107. 

King- wear  132. 
King's  Weston  121. 
Kingswood  247. 
Kington  204. 
Kingus.sie  518.  507. 
Kinlochewe  505. 
Kinloch  Aylort  503. 

Rannoch  518. 
Kinloss  Abbey  505. 
Kinnoul  Hill  511. 
Kinross  496.  516. 
Kippen  496. 
Kippenross  Park  495. 
Kirk  Bride  350. 
Kirkaig,  the  523. 
Kirkbv  Lonsdale  412. 

—  Stephen  412.  418. 
Kirkcaldy  508^ 
Kirkconnell  470. 
Kirkcudbright  473. 
Kirkfell  405. 
Kirklieldbank  4S0. 
Kirkham  381. 

—  Abbey  426. 
Kirkhammerton  416. 
Kirkintilloch  496.  486. 
Kirkliston  485. 

Kirk  Maughold  350. 

—  Michael  348.  350. 
Kirkpatrick  470. 
Kirkstall    Abbey    410. 

411.  xlii. 
Kirkstoad  437. 
Kirkstone  Pass  396. 
Kirkwall  525. 
Kirn  497. 
Kirriemuir  511. 
Kirtle  Bridge  470. 
Kit  lands  60. 
Kits  Cotv  House  34. 
Kitile  202. 
Knaphill  63. 
Knaresborough  416. 
Knebworth  371. 


542 


INDEX. 


Knepp  Castle  52. 
Knighton  207. 
Knight  Wood,  the  83. 
Knole  13. 
Knoll  390. 
Knovvle  247. 
Knowsley  336. 
Knucklas  207. 
Knutsford  281. 
Kvle  Akin  Ferrv  503. 

—  of  Sutherland  520. 

—  of  Tongue  528. 
Kyles  of  Bute  498. 
Kylesku  Ferrv  523. 
Kymin  Hill  176. 
Kynance  Cove  147. 

Lacock  Ahbey  109. 
Ladvbank  508.  516. 
Ladv  Booth  377. 

—  Place  221. 
Lagg  492. 
Laggan  503. 

La  Hogue  Bie  93. 
Laindon  459. 
Lairg  520. 
Lake  District  885. 

—  Side  384.  387. 
Lake  Vyrnwy  307. 
Laleham  223. 
Lamberhurst  14. 
Lameslev  422. 
Lamlash  492. 
Lammas  Castle  412. 
Lamorna  Cove  149/150. 
Lampeter  209. 
Lamphev  213. 
Lanark  490. 
Lancaster  381. 
Lancing  52. 
L'Ancresse  Bay  88. 

—  Common  88. 
Landewednack  147. 
Landore  198. 
Landport  56. 
Lands  End  150/151. 
Landulph  142. 
LanercostPriorv  425.384 
Langdale  Pikes"  39U.  393 
Lanuholm  465. 
Langland  Bav  200. 
Langley  106. 

—  Hall  421. 

—  Mill  409. 
Langness  349. 
Langside  490. 
Langstrath  Beck  403. 
Lanhydrock  144. 
Lansdown  112. 
Lantern  Hill  162. 
Lanyon  151. 
Lapford  105. 

Largo  509. 


La  Rocque  92. 
Latheron  521. 
Lathkill  Dale  373. 
Latrigg  406. 
Lauder  468. 
Laugharne  202, 
Launceston  153. 
Laurencekirk  510. 
Lavant  61. 
Laver,  the  431. 
Lawers  517. 
Lawrence  Hill  121. 
Laxey  34S. 

Laxford  Bridge  520.  523. 
Lea,  the  364.  371.  439. 
Leadburn  468. 
Learn,  the  243. 
Leamington  243. 
Leamside  421. 
Leathferhead  59. 
Leckhampton  Hill  183. 
Ledbury  192. 
Ledmore  5'20. 
Lee  (Devon)  161.  162. 

—  Bay  165. 

—  on-the-Solent  58. 
Leeds  409. 

—  Castle  35. 
Leek  352. 

—  Wootton  246. 
Leen,  the  433. 
Leicester  358. 
Leigh  352. 

—  Down  122. 
Leighton  254. 

—  Blizzard  254. 
Leiston  456. 
Leith  483. 

—  Hill  60. 
Lelant  Bav  148. 
Leman,  the  129. 130. 
Lennoxtown  496. 
Leny,  Pass  of  494.  502. 
Lenzie  486. 
Leominster  180. 
L'Ere'e  88. 

Lerwick  526. 
Leslie  508. 
Letterston  203. 
Leu  chars  508. 
Leven  509. 
— ,  the  384.  493. 
Levers  Water  389. 
Lewes  42.  45. 
Lewis  509. 
Lexden  452. 
Leyburn  417. 
Leys,  the  175. 
Lezayre  348.  350. 
Lichtield353.  xlvii.xlviii 
LiddeL  the  464. 
Liddesdale  465 
Lidford  135. 


Lifton  135. 
Lihou  88. 

Limpley  Stoke  107. 
Linby  439. 

Lincluden  Abbey  472. 
Lincoln  434.xxxvi.xxxix. 

xl.  xli.  xlii.  xlv.  xlvi. 
Lindisfarne    424.    425. 

xxxviii. 
Lindley  356. 
Lingmell  405.  407. 
Lingmoor  Fell   390.    393. 
Lingwood  455. 
Linley  188. 
Linlithgow  485. 
Linn  of  Dee  512. 
of  Muick  514. 
of  Quoieh  513. 
Liphook  65. 
Liskeard  143. 
Lismore  500. 
Liss  65. 

Littlecote  Hall  107. 
Little  Haldon  129. 
Littlehampton  53. 
Little  Haven  203. 
—  Hempston  134. 
Langdale  390.  393. 
Maplestead  451. 
Littiemore  241. 
Little  Orme's  Head  287. 
Littleton  64. 
I-iverpool  328. 

Biuecoat  Hospital  333. 

Bold  Street  338. 

Botanic  Gardens  334. 

Bowes'  Mu3.  334. 

Canning  Place  333. 

Castle  Street  333. 

Cattle  Market  334. 

Conserv.  Club  332. 

Convent  of  Notre 
Dame  334. 

County  Sessions  House 
331. 

Custom  House  333. 

Dale  Street  332. 

Docks  335. 

Duke  Street  335. 

Electric  Eailway335. 

Environs  336. 

Everton  334. 

Exchange  332. 

Goree  Piazzas  335. 

Government  School  of 
Art  833. 

Greek  Church  333. 

JuniorReformClub  332. 

Landing  Stage  835. 

Law  Courts  831. 

Library,  Free  332. 

Liverpool  College  334. 

—  Institute  333. 


INDEX. 


543 


Liverpool : 

Liverpool  University 

College  334. 
Lyceum  333. 
Medical  Institution  334. 

—  School  334. 
Mersey  Tunnel  336. 
Mount  Pleasant  33i. 
Municipal  Offices  332. 
Museum  332. 
Kewsham  Park  334. 
Picton    Reading   Room 

332 
Pier  Head  335. 
Police  Court  332. 
Post  Office  330. 
Prince's  Park  334. 
Railway  Stations   328. 

332.  333. 
Revenue  Offices  332. 
Rodnev  Street  333. 
Royal  Infirmarv  334. 

—  Institution  333. 
Sailors'  Home  333. 
St.   Francis  Xavier's 

Church  334. 

—  George's  Church  333. 
Hall  331. 

—  James's  Cem.  333. 

—  John's  Church  332. 
Market  333. 

—  Luke's  Church  333. 

—  Margaret's  Ch.  334. 

—  Matthew's    &   St. 
James'  Church  334. 

—  Michael's  Ch.  3b3. 
St.  Nicholas'   Ch.   332. 

—  Peter's  Church  333. 
Seamen's  Orphanage 

334. 
Sefton  Park  334. 
Shaw  Street  334. 
Stanley  Park  334. 
Statues  331.  333.  334. 
Steamers  329. 
Synagogue  334. 
Theatres  329. 
Town  Hall  332. 
Toxteth  Park   Chapel 

334. 
Unitarian  Chapel  333. 

—  Church  333. 
Walker  Fine   Art  Gal- 
lery 331. 

'V^^'avertree  Park  334. 
Wellington  Mon.  331. 
Welsh    Presbyterian 

Church  334. 
Workhouse  334. 
Young  Men's  Christian 
Association  33  i. 
Liverpool  Reservoir  307. 
Liza,  the  405.  402. 


Lizard,  the  146. 

—  Town  147. 
Llanaher  Church  300. 
Llanbadarn-Fawr  271. 
Llanbeblig  Church  296. 
Llanbedr  298. 
Llanberis  318. 

—  Pass  320. 
Llanbrynmair  268. 
Llandaff  196.  xliii.    xliv. 
Llandderfel  308. 
Llanddona  295. 
Llanddwyve  300. 
Llandegai  292. 
Llandewi-Brefi  209. 
Llandilo  208. 
Llandisilio  Church  294. 
Llandovery  207. 
Llandrillo  303.  285. 
Llandrindod  Wells  207. 
Llandudno  285. 
Llandvssil  209. 
Llanelltvd  300.  303. 
Llanelly  202. 
Llanfachreth  306. 
Llanfair  (Anglesey)  295. 
Llanfairfechan  290. 
Llanfihangel  270. 
Llanfvllin  268. 
Llangadock  208. 
LlangammarchWells207, 
Llani;ollen  308. 
Llangorse  Pool  205. 
Llaiigunllo  207. 
Llangunnor  209. 
Llanidloes  205. 
Llanilar  210. 
Llanmorlais  200. 
Llanrhaiadr  285. 

—  yn-Mochnant  268. 
Llanrhos  288. 
Llanrhychwyn  312. 
Llanrvvst  312. 
Llanstephan   Castle  202 
Llanthony  Abbey  192. 
Llantrissant  197. 
Llantwit  JIaior  197. 
Llantysilio  308.  310. 
Llanuwchllyn  306. 
Llanvihangel  192. 
Llanwddyn  Valley  307. 
Llanwrda  208. 
Llanwrtvd  Wells  207. 
Llanycil  306. 
Llanymvnech  268. 
Llawhaden  Castle  210. 
Llawllech  Mts.  299. 
Llechog  319.  326. 
Llechrhvd  205. 

Lledr  Vallev  314.  315. 
Llevn  Prom.  297.  301. 
Lliwedd  313.  324. 
Llugwy,  the  312. 


Llwchwr,  the  202. 
Llwyngwril  270. 
Llyfnant  Valley  269.  270. 
Llyn  Aran  305. 

—  Arenig  307. 
Crafnant  312.  321. 
Cwlvd  321. 
Cvnwch  302. 
Ddu'r  Arddu  326.  327. 

—  Elsi  313. 

—  Ffvnnon-v-Gwas  327. 

—  Garnedd  316. 
Geirionydd  321. 
Gwernan  304. 
Gwynant  323. 

—  Idwal  314.  320. 
Llydaw  326. 
Ogwen  314.  292. 

—  Padarn  318. 
Peris  319.   3-20. 
Quellvn  322. 
Safadden  205. 
Tecwvn  316. 
Tegid  307. 
Teyrn  32G. 

—  Trigraienyn  306. 

—  Tryweryn  308. 

—  v-Cae  306. 

—  y-Cwn  320. 

—  y-Dinas  323. 

—  y-Dvwarchen  322. 

—  y-Gadr  305.  322. 

—  y-Gafr  305. 

—  y-Morwvnion  316. 

—  y-Parc  312. 
Llyinau  Mymbyr  321. 
Loch  A"an  513. 

—  Achallt  522. 

—  Achray   494. 

—  Aline  500. 

—  Alsh  503.  519. 

—  Arkaig  503. 

—  Arklet  494. 

—  Assynt  520.  523. 

—  Awe  492.  498.  500. 

—  Baddegyle  522. 

—  Broom  522. 

—  Cairnbawn  523. 

—  Callater  513. 
Lochcarron  519. 
Loch  Coruisk  501. 

—  Dochfour  503.  504. 

—  Drunkie  496. 

—  Earn  502.  510. 
Lochearnhead  510. 
Loch  Eck  492. 

—  Eil  503. 

—  Kilt  503. 

—  Eribol  52.3. 

—  Ericht  518. 

—  Etive  501. 
Lochetivehead  501. 
Loch  Ewe  522 


544 


INDEX, 


Loch  Eye  520. 

—  Fleet  520. 

—  Fyne  492.  498. 

—  Garry  518. 

—  Gilp  498. 
Lochgilphead  498. 
Loch  Glencoul  523. 

—  Glendhu  523. 
Lochgoilhead  492. 
Loch  Inch  Castle  474. 

—  Inchard  523. 

—  Inver  523.  ^ 

—  Katrine  494. 

—  Ken  473. 

—  Laggan  507. 

—  Leven  (Fife)  496. 
(Argyll)    502. 

516. 

—  Linnhe_500.   502. 

—  Lochy  503. 

—  Lomond  493. 

—  Long  491.  506. 

—  of  the  Lowes  517. 

—  Lubnaig  494.  502. 

—  Luichart  519. 

—  Lurgan  522. 

—  Lydoch  507. 

—  Maree  505. 

—  Melfort  500. 

—  Menteith  496. 
Lochnagar  513. 
Loch-na-Xuagh  503. 

—  Ness  504. 

—  Oich  503. 

—  Rannoch  (Perthshire) 
507.  518. 

—  Ranza  492. 

—  Ridden  498. 

—  Roaque  505. 

—  Ruar  521. 

—  Ryan  474. 

—  Scavaig  501. 

—  Shiel  503. 

—  Shin  520. 

—  Sloy  507. 

—  of  Stenness  525. 

—  Striven  498. 

—  Tay  517. 

—  Tollie  522. 

—  Torridon  505.  519. 

—  Treig  507. 

—  Trool  473. 

—  Tulla  507. 

—  Tummel  518. 

—  Vennachar  494. 

—  Watten  521. 
Lockerbie  470. 
Locko  Park  358. 
Lodore  Falls  400. 
Logan  Rock  150. 
London  1. 
Longdendale  365. 
Longford  Castle  101. 


Longhope  174. 

Lonsleat  113.   Ivii. 

Long  Meg  382. 

Long  Melford  451. 

Longniddry  469. 

Longnor  379. 

Longship  Rocks  151 

Longtown  464. 

Looe  142.  143.  146. 

Lord  Isle  403. 

Loseley  64. 

Lo.ssiemouth  506, 

Lostwithiel  144.  153, 

Loth  520. 

Loudwater  218. 

Loughborough  358. 

Loughor  202. 

Loughrigg  Fell  392. 

Louth  437. 

Lowestoft  456. 

Lowes  Water  402. 

Low  Gill  381.  412. 

—  Hartsop  398. 

Lowick  361. 

Lowman  129- 

Low  Water  389. 
Wood  Hotel  387. 

Luccombe  Chine  69. 

Luce  Bav  474. 

Lucker  424. 

Luckham  165. 

Ludiiington  250. 

Ludlow  Ibl. 

Lugar,  the  473. 

Lulworth  Castle  97. 

Lumley  Castle  422. 

Luncarty  511.  516. 

Lundy  159. 
Lune,  the  381. 
Luss  493. 
Lustleigh  130. 
Luton  254.  364. 
Lutterworth  256. 
Luxulion  Vallev, 

153. 
Lybster  521. 
Lydbrook  175.  177. 
Lydd  41. 
Lydney  193. 
Lydstep  212. 
Lyme  Regis  102.  97. 
Lvmiuiiton  72.  95. 
Lyn,  the  164.  166.  etc 
—  Bridge  164. 

Cliff  l67. 
Lvndhurst  83. 

Road  95. 
Lvnher,  the  142.  143. 
Lynmouth  166.  164. 
Lynn  450. 
Lynton  166.  164. 
Lytham  381. 
Lyulph's  Tower  397. 


390 


the 


Macclesfield  345. 
Macduff  506. 
Machno,  the  314. 
Machrihanish   Bay   492. 
Machynlleth  269. 
Marleley  352. 
JIadingley  448. 
Maenporth  146. 
Maentwroii  317. 

—  Road  308. 
3Iaes  Cwm  319. 

—  Garmon  281. 

—  y-Gaer  290. 
Maeshove  525. 
Magna  Charta  Is.  223. 
Maiden  Castle  97.  421. 
Maidenhead  222. 
Maiden  Newton  97. 

—  Paps  465.  521. 
MaidstMne  34. 
Maikentield  Hall  431. 
JIainland  524. 
Maiden  62. 

Maldon  451. 
Malew  349. 
Mallaig  507. 
Mailing  35.  xl. 
Mallwyd  268. 
Malmeabury  108.   xlvi. 

liv. 
Malmsmead  164.  167. 
Malton  427. 
Malvern  190.  liv. 

—  Hills  190. 
Mam  Tor  377. 
Man,  Isle  of  346. 
Manaccan  146. 
Manaton  130. 
Manchester  338. 

Albert  Sqare  342. 
All  Saints'  Church  343. 
Ancoats  343. 
Assize  Courts  342. 
Athenseum  343. 
Bellevue  Gardens  344. 
Botanic  Gardens  344. 
Broughton  339. 
Cathedral  341.  Hi. 
Cheadle  341.  343. 
Cheetham  Hill  339. 
Chetham  College  342. 
Church   of  the  Holy 

Name  343. 
City  Art  Gallery  343. 
Concert  Hall  339. 
County  Gaol  342. 
Deansgate  342. 
Exchange  341. 
Eye  Hospital  343. 
Factories  340. 
Falluwlield  339.  343. 
Free  Trade  Hall  343. 
Grammar  School  342. 


INDEX. 


545 


Manchestei  : 

Library,  Free  3i2. 
ManchesterArt  Museum 
343. 

—  School  340. 

—  Ship  Canal  344.  828. 
Market  Street  341. 
Memorial  Hall  343. 
Mosley  Street  343. 
Old  Trafford  339. 
Owens  College  343. 
Oxford  Street  343. 
Peel  Park  344. 
Piccadilly  340. 

Post  Of  lice  339.  341. 

Railway  Stations  338. 
340.  342.  343. 

Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral 844. 

Roval  Infirmary  340. 

lUisholme  343. 

Ky lands  Library  342. 

St.  Peter's  Church  343. 

Sal  ford  344.  339. 

School  Board  342. 

—  of  Art  343. 
Smithfield  Market  341. 
Statues  341.  342. 
Theatres  339,  343. 
Town  Hall  342. 
Victoria  University  343. 
Whitworth  Inst.  344. 

—  Park  344. 
Workhouse  342. 
Young  Men's  Christian 

Association  343. 
Mane?tv  401. 
Mangots  field  181. 
Manifold,  the  379. 
Manningtree  452. 
Manod  Mawr  316. 
Manorbier  212.  213. 
Mansfield  368.  437. 
Man  I  on  361. 
Mapledurham  221. 
Mappleton  380. 
Marazion  148. 
March  370.  371.  450. 
Mardale  Green  39S. 
Margara  Abbey  198. 
Margate  23. 
Marhaui  church  157. 
Mark  Ash  Wood  83. 
Market  Bosworth  360. 

—  Drayton  265. 

—  llarborough  361. 

—  .Tew  148. 

—  Rasen  434. 

—  Weighton  432. 
Markinch  508. 
Mark's  Tey  451. 
Marlborough  108. 
Marldon  132. 


Mar  Lodge  513. 
Marlow  222. 
Marple  356. 
Marshfield  193. 
Marsh  Lock  221. 

Mills  136. 
Marston  416. 

—  Mine  281. 

—  Moor  416. 
Martin,  Isle  522. 
Maryport  384. 
Mary-Tavy  135. 
Masborough  409. . 
Masbury  113. 
Masham  431. 
Mas  son  373. 
Matlock  372.  357. 
Matterdale  End  404. 
Mauchline  473. 
Maumbury  Rings  97. 
Mavis  Crind  526. 
Mawcarse  516. 
Mawddach,  the  299.  301. 
Mawnan  Smith  146. 
Maxwelltown  472. 
Mav,  Isle  of  469. 

—  Hill  174.  176. 
Maybole  491. 
Mayfield  37. 
Jfealvourvonie  504. 
Measach  Falls  522. 
Measand  Beck  398. 
Meavy  136. 
Medina,  the  67.  71. 
Medlock,  the  339. 
Medmenham  221. 
Medway,  the  18.  33. 
Meikle  Ferry  520. 
Melfort  Pass  500. 
Mell  Fell  404. 
Melmerby  431. 
Melrose  466. 

Melton  Constable  455. 

—  Mowbrav  360. 
Melvich  521.  523. 
Menai  Bridge  Village  294 
Station  295. 

—  Suspension  Bridge  293 
Mendip  Hills  113. 122. 126 
Menheniot  143. 
Menston  410. 
Menteifh,  Lake  of  496. 
Mentmore  254. 
Meopham  18. 
Merchiston  471. 
Merripit  137. 
Merrivale  137. 
Mersev,  tlie  328.  330.  330, 

338.'  339.  351.  etc. 
Merstham  45. 
Merstone  71. 
Merthyr  Tvdvil  196. 
Methil  50S. 


Baehekkk's  Great  Britain.  4th  Edit. 


Mewslade  Bay  201. 
Mey  521. 
Micheldean  174. 

—  Road  174. 
Michelham  Priory  43. 
Mickleden  403. 
Micklefield  411. 
Mickleham  6(>. 
Midcalder  471.  486. 
Middleham  417. 
Middlesbrough  417. 
Middleton  Cross  372. 

—  Dale  376. 

—  in-Teesdale  418. 

—  Junction  345. 
Middletown  267. 
Midhurst  61. 

Milford  (Pembroke)  204. 

—  (Surrey)  64. 

—  Haven  204.  214. 

—  on-Sea  95. 
Mill  Bay  136. 
Millbeck  400.  320. 
^Millbridge  65. 
Millbrouk  142. 
Mill  Dale  379. 
Miller  Brow  387. 
Miller's  Dale  356.  379. 
Mill  Gill  Force  417. 
Millisle  474. 
MilLslade  167. 
Milton  95. 

Milton  Park  370. 
Milverton  243. 
Minchin  Head  201. 
Minehead  128. 
Minety  170. 
Minstead  83. 
Minster  (Cornwall)  157. 

—  in-Thanet  25. 

—  in-Sheppev  22. 
Minsterley  267. 
Minto  Crags  465. 
Mirables  70. 
•Mirfield  345. 
Mitcham  59. 
Moat  Lane  268. 
Mochras  Peninsula  298. 
Modbury  138. 

Moel  Cvnwch  303. 

—  Ddu  323. 

—  Eilio  320.  822. 

—  Faramau  285.  281. 

—  Ferna  308. 
Mojlfre  299. 
Moel  Uehos  324. 

—  OlTrwm  300.  302. 

—  Morfydd  308. 

—  Siabod  313.  321. 

—  Wnion  290. 
Moelwvn  324.  316.  318. 
Moel-v-Gamelin  808.  3ia 

—  v-Geifr  307. 

35 


546 


INDEX. 


Moel-y-Geraint  309. 

—  y-Gest  298. 

—  y-Golfa  268. 

—  v-Senicl  298. 

—  v-Tryfan  321. 
Moffat  470. 

—  Dale  467. 
Mold  281.  li. 
Mole,  the  46.  59. 
Mona  293. 
Moncrieff  Hill  511. 
Moness  Falls  517. 
Moniaive  472. 
Monifietli  509. 
Monkey  Is.  222. 
Monkstone  Prom.  212. 
Monkton  Priory  213. 
Monkvvearmoutli  421. 

XXXV. 

Monmoutli  175. 
3Ionnow,  the  175. 
Monsal  Dale  356. 
Montgomery  268. 
Mont  Mado  9i. 

—  Orgueil  92. 
Montrose  510. 
Monzie  510. 
Moorhampton  204. 
Moor  Park  75.  252. 
Moorswater  143. 
Morecambe  381. 
Moreton  97. 

—  Hampstead  130. 

—  in-the-Marsh  188. 
Morfa  Harlech  298. 
Morlaia  196. 
Morpeth  424. 
Morrone  Hill  513. 
Morte  Point  163. 
Morthoe  161.  163. 
Mortimer  106. 
Morton  Farm  68. 

—  Pinkney  242. 
Morvah  151. 
Morven  514.  521. 
Morwell  Rocks  142. 
Morwenstow  157. 
Mosedale  406. 
Mossgiel  473. 
Mossley  345. 
Mostyn  283. 

Mote  Park  35. 
Motherwell  471. 
Mottistone  70. 

—  Down  71. 
Moulin  518. 

—  Huet  Bay  8S. 
Moulsev  Lock  224. 
Moalsford  107    220. 
Mound,  the  520. 
Mount  Cahurn  42 

—  Edgcumbe  141. 

—  Harry  42. 


Mount  Lee  223. 

Mountjoy  421. 

Mount  St.  Bernard  360. 

Sorrel  358. 

Stuart  498. 
Mousa  526. 
Mousehole  149. 
Jlouse  Water  491. 
Mouth  Mill  159. 
Move,  La  93. 
Much  Wenlock  181. 
Muck  500. 
Muirkirk  473. 
Muir  of  Ord  519. 
Muirtown  504. 
Muker  418. 
Mulfra  151. 
Mulgrave  Castle  429. 
Mull,  Isle  of  500. 

of  Cantvre  498. 

—  of  Gallowav  474. 
MuUvon  146. 
Mumbles,  the  199. 
Mumbles' Road  208. 
Mundesley  455. 
3Iune8s  Castle  526. 
Mungasdale  522. 
Munlochv  519. 
Murthlv"516. 
Murtle  514. 
Musselburgh  470. 
Mutley  134.  136.  138. 
Mylor  145. 
Mvnach,  the  271. 
Mvnffordd  298.  318. 
MVnvdd  Is'odal  307. 

■  Mawr  322. 

—  Moel  305. 
Mytham  Bridge  376. 

Nab  Cottage  891. 

—  Ferry  388. 

—  Scar" 391.  892. 
Naburn  413. 
Xailsea  122. 
Nailsworth  182. 
Nairn  505. 

Nan  Bield  Pass  393. 
Nannau  302. 
Nant-Eos  271. 

—  Ffrancon  315. 
Nant  Gwyllt  205. 

—  Gwynant  323. 

—  Mill  321. 
Xantlle  297. 
Nantwich  352. 
Nant-y-Gwryd  321. 

—  y-Mor  323. 
Narberth  210. 
Kasebv  256.  861. 
Nash  cuffs,  the  197. 
Naworth  425. 

Near  Sawrey  388. 


Neath  198. 
— ,  the  198. 
Neb,  the  350. 
Needles,  the  73. 
Neidpath  Castle  467. 
Nene,   the  255.  256.  369. 
Ness,  the  504.  519. 
Neston  &  Parkgate  273. 
Netherby  Hall  464. 
Nether  Stowey  127. 
Nethy  Bridge  518. 
Netley  59.  xlvii. 

—  Abbey  82. 
Neville^s  Cross  421. 
Nevin  297. 

New  Abbey  472. 
Newark  368.  437.  liii. 

—  Abbey  63. 
Newbattle  Abbey  468. 
New  Biggin  412. 
Newbridge  195. 

—  on-Wye  205. 
New  Brighton  336. 

—  Brompton  22. 
Newbury  107. 
Newcastle  422.  liv. 

—  Emlyn  203. 

—  under-Lyme  352. 
Newcastleton  465. 
Newchurch  71.  68. 
New  Cross  12.  44. 

—  Cumnock  473. 
Newent  192. 
New  Forest  82. 

—  Gallowav  473. 
Newgale  Bridge  215. 
New^Hailes  469. 
Newhaven  (England)  42. 

—  (Scotland)  484. 
New  Holland  483. 
Newington  22. 
Newlands  402. 

Corner  61. 
Newlyn  149. 
Newmarket  (Suffolk)  45S. 

—  (Wales)  284. 
New  Milford  204. 

—  Mills  356. 
Newnham  193. 
Newport  (Salop)  353. 

—  (Wales)  203. 

—  (Monmouth)  193. 

—  (Wight)  71. 

—  Pagnell  254. 

New  Quay  (Cardigan)  209. 
(Cornwall)  144.  154. 

—  Radnor  180.  204. 

—  Romney  41. 

—  Shoreham  xliv. 

—  Southgate  371. 
Newstead  Abbey  439. 
Newton  Abbot   130.  105. 

le- Willows  337. 


INDEX. 


547 


Newtown  72.  146.  268. 

—  Stewart  473. 
Neyland  204. 
Kicholaston  202. 
Nidd,  the  430. 
Ningwood  72. 
Nith,  the  472. 
Niton  70. 

Noe,  the  376. 
Koirmont  93. 
Noltland  525. 
Norbury  380. 

—  Park  60. 
Norfolk  Broads  457. 
Norham  465. 
Normanhurst  3S. 
Normanton  409. 
Norris  Ca.^tle  74. 
Northallerton  417. 
Northam  80. 

—  Burrows  160. 
Northampton  255.  xxxix. 
North  Berwick  469. 
Northcourt  70. 

North  Downs  45.  59. 

—  Esk  484. 
Northileet  33. 
North  Foreland  24. 

—  Hill  128.  169.  191. 
Northiam  41. 

North  Queensferry  508. 

—  Ronaldshay  525. 

—  Road  134.  138. 

—  Rode  352. 

—  Shields  424. 

—  Stoke  112. 

—  Tawton  135. 
Northumberland   Lakes 

426. 
North  Wales  282. 

—  Walshaui  455. 
Northwich  2^1.  35  L. 
Northwood  251. 
North  Wooton  450. 
Nortnn  Bridge  353. 

—  Fitzwarren  128. 
Norwich  453.    xxxvii. 

xliv.  xlvi. 
Norwood  44. 
Nos3  526. 
Nothe,  the  97. 
Nottingham  438. 
Noup  Head  525. 
Novar,  the  619. 
Nuneaton  356. 
Nunoham  Courtenay  219. 

—  Park  217. 
Nunwell  68. 
Nutcombe  Wood  167. 
Nutfield  13. 

Oakham  361.  xxxix.   xl 
xli. 


Oaklev  361. 
Park  170. 
Oare  Church  164. 
Oareford  164. 
Oatlands  Park  62.  223. 
Oban  499. 
Ochil  Hills  496. 
Ochtertyre  510. 
Ockenden  459. 
Ocklev  61. 
Ockwells  222. 
Oddicombe  132. 
Oddington  242. 
Odiham  75. 
Offa's    Dyke    268.    204. 

207. 
Offchurch  Burv  243. 
Offham  Green  35. 
Ogbury  Hill  101. 
Ogmore   Castle  197. 
Ogwen,  the  2£0. 
Okehampton  135. 
Okement,  the  135. 
Old  Barrow,  the  164. 

—  Basing  75. 

—  Colwyn  285. 
Cumnock  473. 

Oldham  345. 

Old  Hunstanton  450. 

—  Llanberis  320. 

—  Man,  the  c89. 

—  Meredith,  the  297. 

—  Sarum  98. 

—  Windsor  Lock  223. 
Oliver's  Mount  428. 
Ollerton  365. 

Olney  363. 
Onchan  348. 
Orbliston  506. 
Ord  of  Caithness  521. 
Ore  41. 
Oreston  138. 
Orkney  Islands  524. 
Ormathwaite  400. 
Ormesby  458. 
Ornies  Head  286.  287. 
Ormiston  460. 
Ormskirk  336. 
Orpington  12. 
Orrest  Head  386. 
Orwell,  the  452. 
Osborne  74. 
Oscott  263. 
Osmington  97. 
Ossians  Cave  502. 
Oswestry  26S. 
Otley  410.  429. 
Otterbourne  79. 
Oiterham  153. 
(nterspool  337. 
Ottery  St.  Mary  103. 
Oulton  Broad  456. 
Oundle  266. 


Ouse,  the  42. 47.  254.361. 

362.  413.  416.  450.  etc. 
Oxenfell  393. 
Oxenholme  381. 
Oxenhope  411. 
Oxford  224.  lii.  Ivi.  Ivii. 

Iviii.  lix. 

All  Saints'  Church  2-37. 

—  Souls  College  237. 
Alms  Houses  240. 
Ashmol.    Museum  233. 
Balliol  College  238. 
Boats  224. 

Bodleian   Librarv   232. 
Botanic  Garden  236. 
Brasenose  CoUe'AC  232. 
Broad  Street  238. 

—  Walk  231. 
Carfax  240. 
Castle  240. 
Cathedral  229. 
Christ  Church 22'^.  Ivii. 

Meadow  231. 

Clarendon  Buildin'j.233. 
College  Bar-es 231.  235. 
Commemoration  228. 
Convocation  Hnusf  233. 
CorpusChristi  Coll. 230. 
Divinity  School 233.  Ivi. 
Environs  241. 
Examination      Schools 

232.  236. 
Exeter  Colle'.ie  237. 
Hertford  College  234. 
High  St.  236. 
Indian  Institute  233. 
Jesus  College  237. 
Keble  College  234. 
Ladv     Margaret     Hall 

24b. 
Lincoln  College  237.1ix. 
Manchester  Coll.  234. 
Mansfield  College  234. 

lix. 
Martvrs"  Memorial  238. 
MertonColl.  230.  xlvii. 
Municipal  Build.  24U. 
Music  Room  233. 
New  Coll.  234.  Nlix.  lix. 
New  Inn  Hall  240. 
Oriel  College  231. 
Pembroke  College  240. 
Post  Office  224.  24u. 
Proscholiuni  232. 
Pusev  House  239. 
Queens  College  236. 
Kadclille  Inlirmarv239. 

—  Librarv  231. 

—  observatcirv  239. 
St.  Alban  Hall  231. 

—  Aldate's  2i0. 

—  .\lo\siu3'3  239. 

—  Edmund  Hall  235. 

35* 


548 


INDEX. 


Oxford : 

St.  Frideswide  xlvi 

—  Giles's  Church  239. 

—  Huiih's  Hall  240. 

—  John's  College  239 

—  Marvs  231.  Ivii. 
Hall  231. 

—  Marv     Magdalen 
Church  238. 

College  235. 

—  Michaels     239. 
xxxvi. 

—  Pauls  Ivii. 

—  Peter's    in  the  East 
235. 

Schools  232.  236. 
Sheldonian  Theatre233, 
Show  Sunday  231. 
Somerville  CoUeae  240, 
Tavlor  Inst.  23S.  lix. 
Trinity  College  238. 
Union  Society  239. 
Universitv  Colleee  236. 

—  Galleries  238. 

—  Museum  234. 

—  Park  234. 

—  Press  239. 
Wadham  College  233. 
Water  Walks  236. 
Worcester  College  239 
WyclitTe  Hall  239. 

Oxted  45. 
Oxwich  201. 
Uykell  520. 
Oystermouth  199.  200. 

Pabo  Hill  288. 
Packwood  House  263. 
Paddock  Wood  14.  35. 
Padstow  154. 
Paignton  132. 
Paisley  491. 
Pandv  192. 

—  Mill  304.  314. 
Pangbourne  107.  220. 
Pannanich  Wells  514. 
Panorama  Walk  30(). 
PansLanger  371. 
Pantglas  297. 

Par  144. 153. 
Parkeston  Quav  452. 
Parkgate  28a.  32S. 
Parkiaurst  Forest  72. 
Park-le-Breos  '202. 

—  Mill  202. 
Parkside  337. 
Parkstone  96. 
Parracombe  164. 
Parrett,  the  127. 
Parslev  Hav  379. 
Partick  497. 
Parton  473. 
Paston  455. 


Patchway  121. 
Pateley  Bridse  430. 
Pater  214. 
Patricroft  337. 
Patterdale  397. 
Paul  Church  149. 
Paviland  Caves,  the  201 
Peak  428. 
— ,  the  371. 

—  Cavern  376. 

—  Forest  Station  356. 
Peakirk  370. 
Peckforton  2S1. 
Peebles  467. 

Peel  350. 
Pegwell  Bav  2i. 
Pelter  Bridse  392. 
Pembrey  202. 
Pembroke  213. 

—  Dock  214. 
Pembrokeshire  210. 
Penally  211. 
Peuarth  195. 
Pencader  209. 
Penclawdd  208. 
Pendennis  Castle  1-55. 
Pen  Dinas  271. 
Pendine  202. 
Pendle  Hill  344. 
Pendleton  338. 
Pendragon  Castle  412. 
Pendre  270. 
Penenden  Heath  35. 
Penae  17.  44. 
Pengwern  Hall  309. 
Penielheugh  465. 
Penistone  366. 
Penkridge  265. 
Penmaen  2u2. 
Penmaenbach  2S9. 
Penmaenmawr  289. 
Penmaenpool  301.  300. 
Penmon  Priorv  294. 
Pennalt  176. 
Pennard  201. 
Penpergwm  193. 

Pen  PUs  113. 
Penpole  Point  121. 
Penrice  201. 
Penrhyn  288.  318. 

—  Castle  292. 
Penrhvndeudraeth   298. 
Penrith  382. 

Penrvn  145. 
Pensarn  285.  29S. 
Penselwood  113. 
Pens  ford  121. 
Penshurst  13.  36. 
Pentargain  Cove  157. 
Pentillie  Castle  142. 
Pentland  Firth  524. 

Hills  484.  471. 
Penton  Hook    Lock  223. 


Pentraeth  295. 
Pentre  Voelas  315. 
Pentrwvn  287. 
Penwylit  206. 
Penyard  174. 
Penybont  207.  299. 
Pen-y-Coed  309. 

—  y-Crug  206. 

—  v-Fan  206. 

—  v-Gaer  312. 

—  y-Ghent  412. 
y-Groes  297. 
y-Gwryd  321. 
y-Gyffniau  32.3. 
v-Hitch  201. 

—  y-Pass  321.  324. 326. 
Penzance  148. 
Perran  Perth  154. 
Perranwell  145. 
Pershore  188.   xliv. 
Perth  510.  516. 
Peterborough  369.  xlii. 

xliv.  xlv. 
Peterhead  506. 
Peterstield  66. 
Petit  Bot  88. 
Petteril,  the  382. 
Petworth  61. 
Pevensey  52. 
Peveril  Castle  376. 
Phi]ipstown  485. 
Pickering  427.  416. 
Picton  417. 

—  Castle  203. 
Pierce  field  Park  177, 
Pierowall  525. 
Pierrepont  House  65. 
Pike  o'Blisco  390. 
Pill  204. 

Pilling  381. 
Pilmoor  416. 
Pilning  121. 
Pilton  161. 
Pinkie  469. 
Pinner  251.  253. 
Pirnmill  492. 
Pistyll  Rhaiadr  268. 
y-Cain  304. 

—  y-Llvn  270. 
Pitchford  Hall  267. 
Pitlochry  517. 
Pitsea  459. 

Place  Fell  397.  398. 
Plas  317.  318. 

Newydd  294.  309. 
Pleinmont  Point  88. 
Plinlimmon  269.  205. 
Plumpton  42. 

—  Park  430. 
Pluscarden  Abbev  506. 
Plym,  the  13i.  136.  139. 
Plymouth  138. 
Plvmstock  138. 


INDEX. 


549 


Plympton  134. 
Pocklington  432. 
Point  of  Ayre  350. 
Pokesdown  95. 
Polegate  42. 
Poljew  Cove  116. 
Polly  523 
Polmont  486. 
Polperro  143. 
Poltesco  146. 
Polurrian  Cove  146. 
Pomona  524. 
Pont-Aberglaslvn  323. 
Pontac  92. 
Pontardulais  203. 
Pont  Cysylltau  272.  311. 

—  Ddu  300. 
Pontefract  413. 
Pont  Ervvyd  271. 
Pontfadog  311. 
Pontfaen  311. 
Pont  Llanio  2u9. 

—  Neath  Vaughan  198. 

—  Newydd  29J.  316. 

y-Groes  271. 

Pontrilas  192. 
Pont-y-Gromlecli  321. 

—  y-Gyfyng  313. 

—  y-Mvnacli  271. 

—  y-Pair  312. 

—  y-Pant  314.  315. 
Pontypool  193. 

—  Eoad  183. 
Pontypridd  195. 
Poole  96. 
Poole  s  Hole  378. 
Pnolewe  522. 
Pooley  Bridge  396. 
Porchester  58. 
Porlock  128.  165.  169. 

—  Hill  165. 

—  Weir  165.  169. 
Port  Askaig  498. 

—  Bannatyne  498. 

—  Carlisle  884. 

—  Dinorwic  295. 

—  Eliot  142. 

—  Ellen  498. 

—  Erin  349. 

—  Eynon  201. 

—  Glasgow  497. 
Porthcawl  198. 
PortMeven  148. 
Porthlwyd  312. 
Purtinscale  401. 
Port  Isaac  154. 

Road  154, 

Portishead  121. 
Portland  Castle  97. 

—  Island  97. 

Port  Madoc  298.  318. 

—  of  Menteith  496. 
Portobello  468.  470. 


Porton  98. 
Portpatrick  474 
Port  Penrliyn  291. 
Portreath  154. 
Portree  501. 
Fort  St.  Mary  349. 
P(jrt3ea  55. 
Portskewelt  193. 
Port  Skillion  318. 
Portsmoutli  56. 
Port  Soderick  348. 

Sonachan  498.  500. 
Purtsov  606. 
Port  Sunlight  328. 

-  Talbot  198. 

-  Victoria  33. 

-  William  474. 
Post  Bridge  137. 
Potteries  352. 
Poulton  381. 
Poundbury  Castle  97. 
Powderham  Castle  129. 
Powys  Castle  267. 
Poynings  51. 

Poyntz  Castle  215. 
Pradanack  Head  147. 
Prawle  Point  133. 
Precely  Hills  203. 
Precipice  Walk  303. 
Preesgweene  272. 
Prestatyn  284. 
Prosteign  204.  207.  180. 
Preston  (Brighton)  51. 

—  (Lancashire)  380.  336. 
Prestonpans  469. 
Preston  Park  47. 
Prestwick  491. 
Priestlleld  264. 
Prince's  Risborough  218. 
Princetown  136.  137. 
Prior  Park  112. 
Probus  144. 

Prudhoe  426. 

Prysor,  the  317. 

Puckaster  70. 

Pufiin  Island  295. 

Pulborou'ih  61. 

Pull  Wyke  Bay  388.  393. 

Pumpsaint  208. 

Purbeck  Island  97. 

Purfleet  459. 

Purley  (Oxon)  221. 

—  (Surrey)  45. 
Purton  170.  liv. 
Pwll-du  Bay  200. 
Pwllheli  297. 
Pyle  198. 

Quaker's  Yard  196. 
•  iuainton  Road  253. 
(Juantock  Hills  127.  128, 
(^uarley  Hill  98. 
(^uarr  Abbey  '67. 


Quarry  Woods  222. 
Queenborough  22. 
Queen  Camel  102. 
—  Eleanor's    Cross    225. 
Queens  ferry  485. 
Queen's  Ferry  2S'S. 
Quellyn  Lake  820. 

Station  322. 

Quenvais,  Le  93. 
Quex  24. 
Quinag  523. 
Quiraing,  the  502. 
Quoit  151. 
Quorndon  358. 

Raby  Castle  422.  418. 
Radley  217. 
Radnor  Park  14. 
Radstock  113.  122. 
Raglan  176.  193. 
Rainford  338. 
Rainham  22. 
Rame  Head  142. 
Ramp  Holme  387. 
Ramsbottom  344. 
Ramsey  (Man)  350.  348. 

(island)  217. 

(Peterborough)  370. 
Ramsgate  24. 
Ranmore  Common  60. 
Rannoch  507.  518. 
Rapparee  Cove  162. 
Ratho  485. 
Raven  Fall  317. 
Ravenglass  384. 
Ravensbourne  17. 
Ravensworth  Castle  422. 
Rawlinson  Nab  387. 
Raynes  Park  62. 
Ravnham  Park  456. 
Reading  106.  22 1. 
Re  ay  523. 
Reculver  23. 
Redbridtie  82.  94. 
Redcar  429. 
Redcastle  519. 
Redditch  189. 
Redhill  Junction  14.  45. 
Redlands  Wood  60. 
Redmire  417. 
Red    Pike    (Buttermere) 
402.  400. 

(Mosedale)  406. 

Redruth  146. 
Red  Screes  396. 

—  Tarn  395.  399. 

—  Wharf  Bay  295. 
Reedham  455. 
Reedsmouth  424.  426. 
Reekie  Linu  511. 
Reepham  455. 
Keiuate  45. 

Reinton  Mandeville    10?. 


550 


INDEX. 


Renfrew  497. 
Kenton  493. 
Eepton-Willington  190 

XXXV. 

Eeston  46S. 
Restormel  Castle  144. 
Eetford  368. 
Rew  Down  71. 
Eeynoldston  201.  202. 
Rhaiadr  Cwm  316. 

—  Ddu  303.  317. 

—  Gorge  269. 

—  Mawddach  304. 
Rhayader  205. 
Rheidol  270.  271. 
Rhiconich  Inn  523. 
Rliinns  of  Galloway  474. 
Rhinog  Fawr  299. 
Rhiw,  the  263. 
Rhiwargor  307. 
Rhobell-Fawr  300.  303. 
Rhondda,  the  195. 
Rhossily  201. 
Rhuddlan  284. 

Rhu  Nohar  505. 
Rhvd-Ddu  322. 
Rhyl  2S4. 
Rhymnev  195. 

—  the  193.  195. 

—  Bridge  192.  195. 
Ribble,  the  412.  380.  344, 
Ribblehead  412. 
Ribston  430. 
Riccarton  465. 
Richborough  25. 
Richmond  (Surrey)  224. 

—  (York)  418. 

—  Hill  224. 
Rickmansworth  251. 
Riddings  464. 
Ridgeway,  the   107.  212. 
Rievaulx  Abbey  416. 
Ringwood  96. 

Ripon  430. 
Rippon  Tor  134. 
Rivals,  the  297. 
Roade  254. 
Robertsbridge  37. 
Robin  Hood\s  Bay  423. 
Robinson  400.  402. 
Rocester  380. 
Roch  Castle  214. 
Rochdale  345. 
Roche,  the  345. 
Roches  Rocks  153. 
Rochester  18. 
Rock  154. 

—  Ferrv  328. 
Rockford  167. 
Rock  Inn  134. 
Rocky  Valley  156. 
Rc.keby  418. 
Roker-on-Sea  422. 


Rolleston  437. 
Rollright  Stones  188. 
R(iman  Bridge  315. 
Romford  450.  459. 
Romilly  356. 
Romney  Marsh  41. 
Romsey  82.  98. 
Ronaldshay  525. 
Roodee,  the  288. 
Rookley  71. 
Roose  384. 
Rosehill  258.  425, 
Rosherville  18. 
Roslin  485. 

—  Castle  485. 
Ross  174. 
Rossett  Crag  403. 
Rosthwaite  401. 
Rothav.  the  3SS.  390.392. 

—  Bridge  393. 
Rothbury  424. 
R other,  the  37. 
Rotherham  368.  409. 
Rotherhithe  12. 
Rotherly  102. 
Rothes  506.  518. 
Rothesay  498. 
Rothiemurchus    Forest 

513. 
Rothley  Temple  360. 
Rottingdean  51. 
Roudham  449. 
Rougemont  Castle  103. 
Rousay  525. 
Row  506. 
Rowardennan  493. 
Rowland's  Castle  66. 
Rowsley  373.  356. 
Row  Tor  154. 
Rowtor  Rocks  373. 
Roxburgh  465. 
Roy  Bridge  507. 
Rozel  93. 
Ruabon  272.  811. 
Ruardean  Hill  178. 
Ruberslaw  465. 
Rudyard  352. 
Rugby  256.  856. 
Rugeley  353. 
Ruislip  Park  251. 
Rum  500. 
RumblingBridge  (Dollar) 

496. 

(Dunkeld)  517. 

Runcorn  337.  351. 
Runnimede  223. 
Eunswick  429. 
Rushen  Abbev  348. 
Rushford  Castle  137. 
Rushmore  102. 
Russel  88. 
Ruston  352. 
Ruthin  285. 


Ruthwell  472. 
Rydal  391. 

—  Hall  391. 

—  Mount  391. 

—  Water  391. ' 
Ryde  67. 

Rye  41. 

— ,  the  417. 

Rylstone  411. 

Saddleback  406. 
Saddleworth  345. 
Saffron  Walden  439. 
Sailmore  522. 
St.  Abbs  Head  468. 

—  Agnes  145.  15i. 
(island)  152. 

—  Agnes's  Beacon  146. 

—  Albans   364.  xxxiv. 
xxxvii.  liv. 

—  Andrews  508^' 

—  Anne  89. 

—  Anne^s  Hill  223. 

—  Ann's  Chapel  186. 320. 

—  Apolline.  Chapel  of  88. 

—  Aubins  93. 
Bay  91.  93. 

—  Audries  128. 

—  Asaph  284. 

—  Austell  144. 

—  Bees  385. 

—  Blazey  144.    153. 

—  Boniface  Down  69. 

—  Bosweirs  465. 

—  Brelade's  Church  93. 

—  Briavel's  176.  178. 
Brides  Bay  215. 

—  Budeaux  138. 
Buryan  150. 

—  Catharine's  Ferry  492. 

Hill  (Surrey)  64. 

(Wight)  70. 

(Winchester)  79. 

—  Rock  211. 
Catherine's  113. 
Chad  355. 
Clears  203. 
Cleer  144. 

—  Clement  92. 

—  Columb  153.  154. 
Road  153. 

David's  215.  xxxix. 
xliii. 

—  Head  217. 
Denys  80.  59. 
Devereux  192. 
Donat's  Castle  197. 

—  Erth  148. 
Ethelberfs  Camp  180. 

—  Fagans  197. 
Fillans  510. 
Genny's  157. 
George's  Hill  63. 


[NDEX. 


551 


St.  Germans  142.  143. 

—  Germains  350. 

—  Giles  101. 

—  Gdwans     Head    214. 

—  Helens  (Lancas.)  837. 
(I.  of  Wight)  68. 

—  Helier^s  91. 

—  Herberts  Isle  400. 

—  Hilary  148. 

—  Ives  (Cornwall)  148. 
(Huntingdon)  371. 

—  James's  337. 

—  John's  12. 

(Isle    of  Man)  349. 

—  Just  in  Penwith  151. 

—  Keverne  146. 

—  Keynes  Well  143. 

—  Kew  Highway  154. 

—  Lawrence  (Kent)  24. 
(I.  ofWlght)  70.71. 

—  Leonard's  39. 

—  Margaret's  25. 
Bay  17. 

—  —  Hope  525. 

—  -Martha's  46.  64. 

—  .Martin  88. 

—  Martin's  152. 
Priory  418. 

—  Marychurch  132. 

—  Mary  Cray  18. 

—  Mary's  152. 

Isle  473. 

Loch  467. 

—  Mawes'  Casfle  145. 

—  Michael's  337. 
Mount  148. 

—  Neof s  (Cornwall)  144. 
(Huntingdon)  371 

—  Nighton's  Kieve  156. 

—  Ninian  495. 

—  Olave's  457. 

—  Ouen's  Bay  94. 

—  Paul's  Cray  18. 

—  Peter  Port  86. 

—  Peter's  24. 

—  Piran  145. 

•—  Radegund's  Abbey  17. 

—  Sampson  88. 

—  Saviour's  Church  93. 

—  Sunday's  Crag   398. 
395.  397. 

—  Trinian's  34S.  349. 

—  Tudno's  Ch.  287. 

—  Woollo's  Ch.  xxxiii. 
Saints'  Bay  88. 
Salcombe  133. 
Salford  344.  838.  339. 
Salisbury  98.    xliii.  xlv. 

xlvi.  xlvii.  xlviii. 

—  Plain  100. 
Salkeld  382. 
Salmstone  Grange  21. 
Salop  265. 


Saltaire  411. 
Saltash  142. 
Saltburn  429. 
Saltford  113. 
Saltley  189. 
Saltney  273. 
Saltram  House  142. 
Saltwood  Ca  tie  14. 
Salvington  53. 
Sampford  Courtney  135. 
Samson,  isl.  152. 
Sancreed  150. 
Sand  522. 
Sandabay  16i. 
Sandal  &  Walton  4l.9. 
Sanday  525 
Sanderstead  4i.  45. 
Sandford  219. 
-  Mill  241. 
Sandgate  14, 
Sandling  14.  35. 
Sandlodge  526. 
Sandown  68. 
Sandringham  450. 
Sandrock  70. 
Sandsend  429. 
Sandwich  25. 
Sandwick  397. 
Sandy  363.  371. 
Sandy  croft  288. 
Sanquhar  4(8. 
Santon  348. 
Sark  89. 
— .  the  470. 
Sam  Helen  815. 
Sauchieburn  495. 
Suundersfuot  202.  210. 
Savernake  98.  107. 
Sawrev  388. 
Saxby  361. 
Saxmundham  456. 
Scafell  400.  405.  407. 
Scale  Force  402. 
Scalloway  526. 
Scandale  Beck  890. 
Scapa  524. 
Scaraven  521. 
Scarba  499. 
Scarborough  427. 
Scarf  Gap  Pass  402.  405 
Scarisbrick  Hall  836. 
Schiehallion  518. 
Scilly  Isles  152. 
Scone  Palace  511. 
Scotch  Dyke  464. 
Scotney  Castle  14. 
Scot's  Gap  424. 
Scotswood  426. 
Scourie  523. 
Scrabster  521. 
Scratchbury  113. 
Scratchell's  Bay  73. 
Screes  407. 


Scremerston  425. 
Scuir-na-Gillean  501. 
Seacombe  273. 
Seaford  42. 
Seaforth  Sands  335. 
Seamer    Junction  427. 

—  Water  417. 
Sea  3Iills  121. 
Seascale  4u8.  384. 
.Seathwaite  389.  404. 
Seatoller  402.  404. 
-Beaton  103.  361. 
Seat  Sandal  391.  895. 
Sea  View  67. 
Sedbergh  412. 
Sedgemoor  127. 
Sedlescombe  41. 
Segontium  29G. 
Seiont,  the_295.  818. 
Selborne  65. 

Selby  418.  xxxix.  xlvii. 
Selkirk  467. 
Sellalield  385. 
Selling  26. 
Selsdon  Road  45. 
Selsea  Bill  49. 
Selworthy  12S. 

—  Green  165. 
.Semley  101. 
Sennen  150. 
Sennv.  the  206. 
Settle  412. 
Scvenonks  13. 

Seven  Springs,  the  1^3. 
Severn  121.  170.  183. 184. 
190.  193.  265.  267.  272. 

—  Tunnel   Junction  121. 
Shaftesbury  101. 
Shakespeare  Clifif  15.  16. 
Shaltleet  72. 

Shalford  46.  64. 
Sham  Castle  112. 
Shandon  506. 
Shanklin  68. 
Shap  381.  398. 
Shapinshay  525. 
Sharpham  133. 
Sharpness  193. 
Shaugh  Prior  142. 
Shawford  79. 
Shawl  417. 
Sheaf,  the  866. 
Sheep's  Tor  136. 
Sheerness  22. 
Shefiield  866.  409. 

—  Park  45. 
Shelford  440. 
Shentield  451. 
Shepherd's  Well  32. 
Shepperton  223. 
Shopton  Mallet   113. 
Sherborne  (Dorset)  102. 
Sherbourne  247.    xl.  liii. 


552 


INDEX. 


Slierburn  Hospital  421. 
Shere  46. 
Sheriflfmuir  49j. 
Sherriniham  456. 
Sherwood  Dell  379. 

—  Forest  368. 
Shetland  Islands  526. 524. 
Shide  71. 

Shields  424. 
Shifnal  265. 
Shillingford  220. 
Shin  520. 
Shiplake  221. 
Shipley  411. 
Shipton  188. 
Shire  Combe  Bay  201. 
Shirehampton  121. 
Shireoaks  368. 
Shoehuryness  459. 
ShorehaiQ  52.  liii. 
Shorncliffe  14.  32. 
Shorwell  70. 
Shotover  Hill  241. 
Shotter  Mill  6i. 
Shottery  250. 
Shrewsbury  265. 
Shrivenham  108. 
Shropshire  265. 

—  Union  Canal  283.  309. 
Shugborough  Park  353. 
Sidlaw  Hills  511. 
Sidmouth  103. 
Siebertswold  32. 
Silbury  Hill  108. 
Silchester  106. 

Silleiy  Sands  164. 
Silloth  384. 
Silveidale  384. 
Silver  How^  394. 
Simonsbath  168. 
Singleton  61.  199. 
Sinodun  Hill  220. 
Sittingbonrne  22. 
Six  Roads  94. 
Skaig  Bridge  523. 
Skegness  437. 
Skelgill  401. 
Skell,  the  431. 
Skelton  416.  xlv. 
Skelwith  Force  393. 
Skenfrith  Castle  176. 
Sketty  202. 
Skibo  520. 
Skiddaw  400.  406. 
Skipton  411. 
Skye  501. 
Skyrrid-Vawr  192. 
Slade  201. 
Slade  Vallev  161. 
Slapton  Sands  183. 
Slateford  471. 
Slaugham  47. 
Sleaford  369. 


Sliga^hai,  Glen  501. 
Slough  106. 
Slymbridge  xliii. 
Smailholm  Tower  465. 
Smallbrook  68. 
Smallmouth  Caves  163. 
Smeeth  14. 
Smethwick  262. 
Smithills  Hall  34i. 
Smithv  Houses  393. 
Smoo'Cave  523. 
Snaefell  348.  847. 
Snettisham  450.  xlvii. 
Snodland  33. 
Snowdon  324. 

—  Ranger  320. 

—  Station  322. 
Soar,  the  358.  359. 
Soho  262.  263. 
Sole  Street  18. 
Solihull  247. 
Solva  215. 
Solwav,  the  470. 

—  Moss  464. 
Sjmerley  96. 
Somerleyton  Hall  456. 
Somerset  109. 
Sompting  53.  xxxvi. 
Sonning  221. 

Sound  of  Mull  500. 
Sour  Milk  Force  394. 
Southam  de  la  Bere  183. 
Southampton  80. 

—  Water  80.  95. 
Southborough  37. 
South  Downs  42.  43. 
Southend  199.  459. 
Southerndown  197. 
South  Esk  510. 
Southfleet  18. 
South  Foreland  17. 

—  Hinksey  241. 

—  Minster  451. 

—  Molton  128. 
Southport  336. 

South    Queensferry    485. 

—  Rimaldshay  525. 
Southsea  56.  58. 
South  Shields  424. 
Southwell    437.    xl.   xlv. 
Southwold  456. 

South  Wraxall  113. 
Sow,  the  353. 
Sowerbv  Bridge  345. 
Spalding  369.  437. 
Spanish  Head  349. 
Spar  Cave  501. 
Sparkford  102. 
Spean  Bridge  507. 
Speech  House  177. 
Speedwell  Cavern  377. 
Speke  Hall  336.  Iv. 
Spey,  the  518. 


Spital  328. 
Spitchwick  105. 
S pithead  57. 
Spittal  425. 
Spring  Vale  67.^ 
Sprinkling  Tarn  405. 
Stackpole  213. 
Stack  Pollv  522. 

—  Rocks  214. 
Stacks,  the  295. 
Staflfa  500. 
Stafford  265.  353. 
Staines  223. 
Stair  403. 
Staithes  429. 
Stake  Pas.s  403.  394. 
Stalham  453. 
Stalvbridge  345. 
Stamford  369. 

—  Bridge  432. 

—  Hill  158. 
Stanbury  Mouth  157. 
Standlake  242. 
Stanford-le-Hope  459, 
Stanley  511.  516. 

—  Gill  408. 
Stanmer  Park  47.  52. 
Stanmore  253. 
Stanton  Drew  121. 

—  llarcourt  241. 
Stanwix  383. 
Staple  Hill  181. 
Staplehurst  14. 
Stapleton  Road  121. 
Starcross  129. 
Start  Point  133. 
Staunton  Lacey  181. 
Staverton  134. 
Stavordale  Priory  113. 
Stechford  258. 

Steel  Fell  391. 

—  Knotts  398.1 
Steephill  Castle  70. 
Steeple  406. 
Steinmoor  Fells  418. 
Steins  choll  Inn  502. 
Stenness,   Stones  of  525, 
Steyning  52. 

Stickle  Tarn  393. 
Sticks  Pass  404. 
Stilton  370. 
Stirling  495. 
Stock  Gin  Force  392. 
Stockley  Bridge  405. 
Stockport  345.   356. 
Stockton-on-Tees  417. 
Stogumber  128. 
Stoke  159. 

—  Edith  192. 

—  Mandeville  252. 

—  Poges  106. 

—  upon-Trent  352. 
Stokesay  Castle  181. 


INDEX. 


553 


stokes  Bay  80. 
Stoke  Works  1S9. 
Stone  353.  3iG. 

—  Church  33. 
Stonebyres  490. 
Stonehaven  510. 
Stonehenge  100. 
Stonehouse  (Devon)   141 

—  (Gloucesterj  170.    182 
Stoneleigh    Abhev   246. 
Stonethwaite  395'.  403. 
Stoney  Cross  Plain  83. 

—  Middleton  37G. 

—  Stratford  254. 
Stonyhurst  344. 
Stornoway  505. 
Storr  Rock  501. 
Storr'8  Hall  Hotel  387. 
Stour,  the  (Kent)  14.  25. 

(Suffolk)  452. 

Stourbridge  263. 
Stourport  187. 

Stow  (Covnvi'all)  157. 

—  (Edinburgh)  468. 
Stowe   (Lichfield)  355. 

—  (Oxford)  218. 
StovFinarket  453. 
Strachur  492. 
Strands  407.  408- 
Stranraer  474. 

Strata  Florida  209.  271. 
Stratford  (Wilts)  100. 

—  on-Avon  248. 
Strathbeg,  the  522. 
Strathcarron  519. 
Strathfieldsaye  107. 
Strath  neet  520. 
Strath  Halladale  521. 
Strathnaver  523. 
Strathpeffer  519. 
Strathyre  494. 
Strath  Ullie  521. 
Strathy  528. 
Stratton  158.  153.  157. 
Streatham  44. 

—  Castle  418. 
Streatley  220. 
Stretton  Hills  181. 
Strome  Ferry   502.   519. 
Stromness  525. 
Stronachlachar  491. 
Stronsay  525. 

Strood  18.  33. 
Stroud  170.  182. 
Stroudwater,  the  170. 
Struan  518. 
Strumble  Head  203. 
Struy  519. 
Studfall  Castle  14. 
Studlev  Royal  431. 
Sty  Head  Pass  405. 
Sudbury  (Middlesex)  253. 
—  (Suffolk)  451. 


Sudeley  Castle  183. 
Sugarloaf  192.  207.  523. 
Suilven  523. 
Suisgill  Burn  621. 
Sulby  346. 

—  Bridge  350. 

—  Glen  350. 
Sulgrave  242. 
Sullcm  Voc  526. 
Sumborough  Head  556. 
Summerho'ise  Hill  167. 
Sunbury  224. 
Sunderland  421. 
Surbiton  62.  224. 
Surlingham  Broad  455. 
Sussex  46. 

Sutton  Bingham  102. 

—  Bridge  370. 

—  Coldfield  263. 

—  Courtney  220. 

—  at  Hone  18. 

—  Park  263. 

—  Place  59.  64. 

—  Pool  139.   140. 1 

—  Weaver  351. 
Swaffham  449. 
Swainsthorpe  453. 
Swale,  the  417.   418." 
Swallow  Falls  313. 
Swanage  97. 
Swanley  13.  18. 
Swansea  198. 

—  Bay  198.  199. 
Swanston  484. 
Swan  Village  263. 
Swanwick  58. 
Swathling  80. 
Sway  95.. 

Sweetheart  Abbey  472. 
Sweno's  Stone  505. 
Swimbridge  128. 
Swindon  108.  98. 
Swinge,  the  89. 
Swinside  403. 
Swinton  409. 
Swithamley  352. 
Sychnant  Pass  289. 
Sydenham  135.  44. 
Symington  471. 
Symond's  Yat  175. 
Syston,358.  360. 

Taff,  the  194.  195.  196. 
Tain  520. 

Talargoch  Lead  Mine  28i. 
Talgarth  205. 
Talladale  505. 
Talley  Abbev  208. 
Talsarnau  298. 
Talybont  206.  269. 
Tal-y-Cafn  812. 
Talyllyn  205.  270.  306. 
Tamar,  the  135.  136.  139. 


Tame,  the  189.  345.  356. 
Tamhbrn  356. 
Tamworth   189.  356. 

—  Castle  263. 
Tanat,  the  268. 
Tantallon  Castle  460. 
Tan-y-Bwlch3l3.315.317. 

—  y-Grisiau  318. 
Tanyrallt  298. 
Taplow  222. 
Tarbat  Xess  520. 
Tarbert  49^. 
Tarbet  493.  491. 
Tarff,  Ford  of  512. 
Tarn  Hows  388. 
Tarr  Steps,  the  128. 
Tattershall  437. 
Tatton  Park  281. 
Taunton  127. 

—  Deane  127. 
Tavistock  136. 

Tavy,  the  136.  138.  142. 
Taw,thcl05. 135.160.1G1. 
Tawe,  the  207. 
Tay,  the  509.  510.  502. 

—  Bridge  5G9. 
Taychreggan  498.  500. 
Taymouth  Castle  517. 
Taynuilt  498.  500.  502. 
Tayport  508. 

Tebay  381.  418. 
Teddington  224. 
Tees,  the  417.  418. 
Teifi,  the  203.  209. 
TeiHu,  the  129.    130. 
Teign-race  130. 
Teisnmouth  129. 
Teith,  the  494. 
Tcme,  the  180.  181.  207. 
Templecombe    102.    113. 
Temple  Lock  :?21. 

—  Newsam  410. 
Tenburv  180. 
Tenby  210. 
Tenterden  41. 
Tent  House  3a^. 
T  erring  ton  450. 
Test,  the  80. 
Tetbury  170. 
Tettenhall  265. 
Teviot,  the  465. 
Tewkesbury  183.  xxxvii. 

xliv.  Hi. 
Thame  218. 
Thame,  the  220. 
Thames,  the  33.  217.  etc. 
Ditton^^224. 

—  Head  170. 
Thanet,  Isle  of  28. 
Thetfnrd  449. 
Thirlmero  391. 
Thirlspot  392. 
Thirlwall  Castle  426. 


554 


INDEX. 


Thirsk  417. 
Thornbury  181.  Ivi. 
Thorney  370. 
Thornhill  472. 
Thornilee  467. 
Thornton  Abbey  431. 

—  Junction  508. 
Thorpe  380. 

—  Cloud  379. 
Thrapston  361. 
Threave  Castle  473. 
Three  Bridges  46. 

—  Cliffs  Bay  201. 

—  Cocks  Junction  201. 
Threlkeld  382.  406. 
Thurgarton  488. 
Thurso  521. 

—  Eiver  521. 
Ticehurst  37. 
Tichborne  House  75. 
Tickenbam  122. 
Tiddington  243. 
Tideswell  376. 
Tighnabruaich  498. 
Tilberthwaite  Gill  390. 

—  Glen  389. 
Tilbury  459. 
Tilehurst  221. 
Tilford  65. 
Tilgate  Forest  47. 
Till,  the  465. 
Tillietudlem  490. 
Tillynaught  506. 
Tilt,  Glen  512. 
Tintagel  155. 

—  Head  155. 
Tingwall  526. 
Tintern  176.  xlvii. 

—  Parva  176. 
Tinto  Hill  471. 
Tipton  St.  John's  103. 
Tiree  500. 

Tisbury  101. 
Titchfield  58. 
Titchmarsh  li. 
Titterstone  Clee  180. 
Tiverton  129. 
Tivetshall  453. 
Tiviot  Dale  356. 
Tobermory  500. 
Todmorden  345. 
Tollie  505. 
Tomen-y-Mur  317. 
Tonacombe  157. 
Tone,  the  127. 
ToDg  Church  265. 
Ton-ue  520.  523. 

—  Gill  Force  395. 
Topsham  105. 
Tor  Bav  131. 
Torcross  133. 
Torpantau  206. 
Torquay  130. 


Torre  130. 

Torrent  Walk,  the  302. 

Torridge,  the  160. 

Torrin  501. 

Torrington  160. 

Tor  Steps,  the  128.  168. 

Walk?,  the  162. 
Tortworth  Court  181. 
Totland  Bay  73. 
Totnes  133. 
Tottenham  439. 
Totton  95. 
Towcester  254. 
Tower  Hill  153. 
Towy,  the  202.  206.  207. 
Towyn  270. 
Toxteth  Park  337. 
Traeth  Mawr,    the  318. 
Tram  Inn  192. 
Tranent  469. 
Trawscoed  271. 
Trawsfynydd  308. 
Trebarwith  Sands  156. 
Treborth  295. 
Trecastle  206. 
Trefnant  284. 
Trefriw  312. 
Tregony  144. 
Tregothnan  145. 
Treherbert  195. 
Trelowarren  Park  145. 
Tremadoc  298.  323. 
Trematon  Castle  142. 
Trent,  the  352.  353.  437, 
Trentishoe  165. 
Trent  Junction  358. 
Trereen  150. 
Tre'r  Ceiri  297. 
Tresco  152. 
Treshinish  Isles  500. 
Tresmeer  153. 
Treavennick   Pillar   150. 
Tre  Taliesin  269. 
Trevalga  157. 
Trevena  155. 
Trevor  311. 
Tring  254. 
Trinity  484. 
Troon  491. 
Trossachs  494. 
Trotton  61. 
Troutbeck  (Ambleside) 

396. 

—  (Keswick)   382.  404. 

—  Bridge  390. 
Trowbridge  107. 
Trowell  361. 
Truro  144. 
Trusham  130. 
Tryfan  314. 

—  Junction  321. 
Trvweryn.  the  307. 
Tulloch  507.  518. 


Tummel,  the  518. 

—  Bridge  518. 
Tunbridge  13. 

Wells  35. 
Turnchapel  138. 
Turriff  506. 
Tutbury  190. 
Tuxford  409. 
Tweed,  the  425.  465.  466. 
Tweedmouth  425.  465. 
Twerton  113. 
Twickenham  224. 
Iwizell  465. 
TwU  Du  320. 

Twrw  271. 
Twm  Shon   Catti's  Cave 

207.   208. 
Two  Bridges  134.  137. 

Pots  163. 
Twyford  79.  106. 
Twvmyn,  the  268. 
Tvndrum  502.  507. 
Tyne,  the  (Hadd.)  469. 
Tvne,  the  (Northumber- 

"land)  422.  426. 
Tynehead  468. 
Tynemouth  424. 
Tvninghame  House  469. 
Tynwald  Hill  349. 
Tyn-y-Coed  313. 

v-Groes  303. 
Tyrau  Mawr  300.  301. 305. 

Uddingston  486. 
Uffington  108. 
rig  502. 
Ulcebv  434. 
Ullapool  522. 
Ullesthorpe  256. 
Ullscarf  395. 
Cllswater  396. 
Ulpha  389. 

Ulverscroft  Priory  360. 
Ulverston  384. 
Undercliff  69. 
Union  Mills  349. 
Unst  526. 
Upchurch  22. 
Upminster  459. 
Upnor  Castle  22. 
Uppingham  361. 
Upton  112.  273. 

—  Castle  212. 
Ure,  the  430.  417. 
Urquhart  Castle  504^  ' 
Ushaw   Rom.  Cathr  Col. 

421. 
Usk  176.  192.  193.  205. 
Uttoxeter  352. 

Val  des  Vaux  94. 
Vale  Castle  88. 

—  Church  88. 


INDEX. 


555 


Vale  of  St.  John  403. 

—  Roval  351. 

Valle  Crucis  Aljbev  310. 
Valley  of  Chess  252. 

—  of  Rocks  166. 
Vaurocque  90. 
Vauxhall  62.  263. 
Vellan  Head  147. 
Ventnor  69. 
Ver,  the  365. 
Verney  218.  253. 
Vespasian's  Camp  100. 
Via  Gellia,  the  372.  380. 
Victoria  153. 
Vignals,  the  181. 
Vindogladia  102. 
Virginia  Water  63. 
Vitifer  Tin  3Iine  137. 

Wadboroush  184. 
Waddesdon  253. 
Wadebridge  135.  154. 
Wadhurst  37. 
Waenfawr  321. 
Wakefield  409. 
Walberswick  456. 
Waldendale  417. 
Waldershare  32. 
Wales  267.  2S2.  etc. 
Walkden  338. 
Walkerburn  467. 
Walkhampton  136. 
Wall  355. 
Wallasey  336. 
Wallingford  107.  220. 
Walla  526. 
Wallsend  424. 
Walmer  25. 
Walna  Scar  Pass  389. 
Walnut  Tree  Bridge  195. 
Walpole  St.  Peters  450. 
Walsall  263.  353. 
Walsingham  456. 
Waltham  Cross  439. 

xxxviii. 
Walton  62. 

—  Castle  122. 

—  on-the-Naze  452. 

—  on-Thames  62.  224. 
Wansfell  Pike  392. 
Wansford  256. 
Wantage  107.  242. 
Wanthwaite  Bridge  403 
Warberry  Hill  132. 
Ward  Hill  525. 
Wardour  Castle  101. 
Wareham  96. 
Wargrave  221. 
Warkworth  424. 
Warleigh  Valley  112. 
Warlingham  45. 
Warmington  256.  xlv. 
Warminster  113. 


Warnham  61. 
Warren  214,  336. 
Warrington  338.  281. 
Warwick  243. 
Warwicktovvn  45. 
Wasdale  405. 

—  Head  407. 
Wash,  the  214. 
Washford  128. 
Wasperton  247. 
Wast  Water  407. 
Watchet  128. 
Watcombe  132. 
Watendlath  392.  402.  407. 
Waterbeach  448. 
Water  Eaton  242. 
Waterhead  388.  390. 
Waterloo  336. 
Watermouth  163. 
Water  Orton  189. 
Watersmeet,  the  167. 
Waterwinch  212. 
Watford  253. 
Watling    Street   22.    181. 

255.  265. 
Watlington  218. 
Watton  449. 
Watt\^  Dyke  272. 
Waveney  458. 
Waverley  Abbey  65. 
Wavertree  351. 
Wayland  Wood  449. 

—  Smith's  Foriie  108. 
Weald  of  Kent  18. 

—  of  Sussex  46. 
Wear,   the  418.  421.  422 
Weather  Hill  398. 
Weaver,  the  351. 
Wedmore  122. 
Wednesbury  264. 
Weedon  255. 

Weir  Head  142. 
Welbeck  Abbey  368. 
Welbury  417. 
Wellingborough  361. 
Wellington  (Salop)   265. 

—  (Somerset)  129. 

—  College  46. 
Wells  (Norfolk)  450. 

—  (Somerset)  123.    xliii 
xlv.  xlvi.  xlvii.  xlviii 

Welshpool  267. 
Welton  255. 
Wem  271. 
Wemyss  Bay  491. 
Wendover  252. 
Wensley  417. 
Wensleydale  417. 
Wensum,  the  453.  455. 
WestBrighlon47.  51. 

—  Bromwich  263. 
Westhurv  109.  113. 
West  Calder  486. 


West  Cowes  74. 
Westenhanger  14. 
Wesferfield  456. 
Westerham  13. 
Westgate-on-Sea  23. 
West  Grinstead  52. 
Westham  52. 
West  Hartlepool  417. 

—  Kirby  283.  328. 

—  Moors  96. 
Weston-super-Mare  12G. 
Westray  525. 

West  Southampton  94. 

—  Tarbert  492. 

—  Tarring  53. 
Westward  Ho  160. 
West  Wickham  44. 
Westwood  House  189. 
Wetheral  425. 
Wetherlam  389. 

Wey,  the  97.  223.  63.  65. 
Weybridge  62.  223. 
Wevmouth  97. 
Whalley  344. 
Whalsay  526. 
Wharfe,  the  410. 
Wharnclifl'e  Chase  366. 

—  Lodge  365. 
Whatstandwell  Bridge 

357. 
Whauphill  474. 
Wheatley  218. 
Whernside  412. 
Whiddon  Park  105. 
Whifflet  471. 
Whinlatter  Pass  402. 
Whippingham  68. 
Whiston  256.  Hi. 
Whitacre  189. 
Whitby  428. 
Whitchurch  (Devon)  135. 

—  (Hants)  98.  82. 

—  (Oxon)  220. 

—  (Salop)  271.  285. 

—  (Somerset)  xliii. 

—  Canonicorum  102. 
White  Ball  Tunnel   129. 

—  Castle  176. 
Whitehaven  385. 
White  Horse  Hill  108. 
Whiteless  Pike  402. 
White  Moss  391. 

—  Pebble  Bay  162. 
Whitesand  Bav  142.  151. 
White  Stones  164. 
Whitfield  17. 

—  Gill  Force  417. 
Whithorn  474. 
AATiitin-  Bav  492. 
Whitland  2()3. 
Whitley  Abl.ey  258. 
Whitliugham  455. 

'Whitney  204. 


556 


Whitstable :  23. 
Whittington  272. 
Whitwell  70. 
Wick  521. 
Wickford  451.. 
Wickham  Court  44/45. 
Wickhamford  183. 
Wickham  Market  456. 
Wickwar  181. 
Widcombe  112. 
Widdecombe  -  in  -  the  - 

Moors  134. 
Wideford  Hill  525. 
Widford  439. 
Widnes  337.  338. 
Wigan  338.  380. 
Wight,  Isle  of  66. 
Wigmore  Castle  181. 
Wigston  361. 
Wigtown  473. 

—  Bay  473. 

Wildersmouth  Bay  162. 
Wiley,  the  98. 
Willapark  Point  156. 
Willerslev  Castle  357. 
WiUesden  253. 
Willington  190. 
Williton  128. 
Willoughhy  437. 
Wilmcote  247. 
Wilmington  Priory  43. 

—  Giant  42. 
Wilton  101. 

—  Bridge  175. 

—  Castle  175. 

—  House  101. 
Wiltshire  108. 
Wimbledon  62. 
Wimborne  96.  liv. 
Wincanton  113. 
Winchburgh  485. 
Winchcombe  183. 
WincheLsea  41.  xlvii. 
Winchester  75.  xxxvii. 

xlix.  1.  lii.  liv. 
Winchfield  75. 
Windermere   386.  387. 
— ,  the  387. 
Windsor  222.  106. 
Winkle  352. 
Winmarleigh  38i. 
Winnats,  the  377. 
Winslow  Eoad  253. 
Wirksworth  357. 
Wirral,  the  273.  323. 
Wisbech  370. 
Wishaw  471. 
Wiston  52. 
Witham  109.  451. 


INDEX. 

Witham,  the  431.  437. 
Withernsea  433. 
Withington  192. 
Witley  64. 
Witney  189. 
Wnion,  the  302.  306. 
Wobum  254. 

—  Abbey  251.  363. 

—  Sands  363. 
Woking  63. 
Wokingham  46. 
Woldingham  45. 
Wolds,  the  4.32. 
Wolferton  450. 
Wollacombe  Bav  163. 
Wollaton  Hall  439. 
Wolselev  Hall  353. 
Wolston  257. 
Wolstonbury  Beacon  47. 
Wolvercote"241. 
Wolverhampton  264. 
Wolverton  251. 
Wooburn  Green  218. 
Wooda  Bay  165. 
Woodcuts  102. 
Woodhall  Spa  437. 
Woodham  Ferris  451. 
Woodhead  366. 
Woodhouse  368. 
Woodside  Ferrv  328. 
Woodstock  241. 
Wootlerton  180. 
Wookev  122. 

Wool  97. 
Wooler  424. 
Woolston  82. 
Woolmch  33. 
Wootton  68. 

—  Bassett  108. 

—  Court  246. 

—  Hall  380. 
Worcester  181.  xlii.  xlv. 

—  Beacon  191. 
Workington  385. 
Worksop  368. 

—  Manor  368. 

—  Priory  xxxix. 
Worle  126. 
Worms  Head  201. 
Worstead  455. 
Worth  47.  XXXV. 
Worthing  52. 
Wurtley  366. 
Wotton  46 

—  under-Edge  181. 

—  House  60. 
Wrafton  161. 
Wrangaton  131. 
Wrath,  Cape  523. 


Wray  Castle  387. 
Wrekin  265. 
Wrexham  272.  li. 
Wrington  122. 
Wroxall  71. 
Wroxeter  267. 
Wroxhall  247. 
Wroxham  455. 
Wroxton  Abbey  242. 
Wrynose  Pass  389. 
Wyche,  the  191. 
Wvchwood    Forest    183 
Wycombe  106. 
Wye  14. 
— ,  the  174.  178.  193.  20f/ 

205.  373.  378.  etc. 
Wvkeham  428. 
Wyken  258. 
Wylam  426. 
Wvmondham  449. 
WyndclilY,  the  177. 
W\Tinstay  311.  /a 

Wytham 'Abbey  242.      /i 
Wylhburn  891.  1 

Yar,  the  68.  72. 

Yare,  the  453.  457.  458. 

Yarmouth  (Norfolk)  457. 

—  (Wight)  72. 
Yarnton  189. 
Yarrow,  the  467. 
Yate  181. 
Yatton  122. 
Yaverland  68. 
Yell  52r3. 
Yelvertoft  256. 
Yelverton  135. 
Yeo,  the  102. 
Yeoford  105. 
Yeovil  102. 

Yes  Tor  138. 

Yewdale  Crags  388.  390. 

Y  Caer  Bannau  206. 

—  Foel  Fras  290. 

—  Gam  319.  320. 

—  Garnedd  Goch  324. 

—  Glyder  Fach  315. 

—  —  Fawr  315.  320. 

—  Wyddfa  313.  321. 
York     413.    xxxiv.    xlv. 

xlvii.  xlviii.  1.  lii.  Iv. 
Yorton  271. 
Yr  Aran  322.  324.  327. 
Yspyttv-Cynfvn  271. 
Ystrad  195. 
Ystradftm  208. 
Ystwith,  the  210.  270. 

Zennor  151. 


Leipsic;   Printed  by  Breitkopf  and  Hartel. 


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1897 


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