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i‘mn 


I IUKAI  SOCIETY 


TLC:  Tender,  Loving 
Conditioning  Pays  Off  at 
the  Harvest  Show. 

See  page  6 


SR 


in  this  issue 


3.  An  Apple  Tasting  Party 

Liz  Ball 

6.  TLC:  Tender,  Loving 
Conditioning  Pays  Of 
at  the  Harvest  Show 

Cheryl  Monroe 

8.  Fairmount  Park:  A 
Good  Beginning  or  the 
Beginning  of  the  End 

Anne  S.  Cunningham 

12.  Harvesting  Vegetables: 
There’s  Many  a Step 
Between  Garden  and  Pot 

Libby  Goldstein 

16.  An  Autumn  Border 
with  All  Year  Interest 

Andrew  Ducsik 

19.  An  Urban  Gardening 
Guerilla  Composts 

James  Wiegand 


22.  From  Forage  to  Feast: 
The  Delights  of  the  Edible 
Landscape 

Catherine  J.  Knes-Maxwell 

26.  Are  You  Dreaming  of 
a White  Spring? 

Tim  Morehouse 

30.  Recreating  a Colonial 
Garden 

Adra  Fairman 

33.  Flower  Tower 

Jim  LaRosa 

34.  Growing  Interests 
34.  Plant  Finder 

34.  Classified  Advertising 


Volume  17,  Number  1 September/October  1988 


CORRECTION 

In  the  May  issue  of  Green  Scene,  in  “Gar- 
dening in  Public  Housing"  (page  22),  au- 
thor Natalie  Kempner  mentioned  that  Bar- 
tram  Village  lacks  an  adult  tenant  organiza- 
tion for  community  projects.  Bartram  Vil- 
lage does  have  a Tenant  Council,  headed 
by  Emma  Templeman.  The  Council  does  a 
number  of  community  projects;  the  point 
Kempner  was  making,  however,  is  that  the 
tenants  have  not  been  able  to  generate  the 
supportive  organization  for  their  gardening 
activities.  The  Council  and  Templeman 
have,  however,  provided  Philadelphia 
Green  space  for  workshops.  Emma  Tem- 
pleman, herself,  has  supported  and  helped 
the  Children’s  Garden  since  it’s  inception. 


CORRECTION: 


THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULATURAL  SOCIETY 

325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon 

Robert  S.  Ryan  / Chair 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byrne  / Editor  Joseph  P.  Robinson  / Editorial  Assistant 

Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 


PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 

Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Steven  A.  Frowine  Natalie  Kempner 

Darrel  Apps  Adele  G.  Greenfield  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell,  Baxendells'  Graphic 
Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 
Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 

THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580)  Volume  17,  No.  1 , published  bimonthly,  January, 
March,  May,  July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non- 
profit membership  organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription: 
$8.50— Single  Copy:  $1.50.  Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  • POST- 
MASTER: Send  address  change  to  THE  GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  street,  Philadelphia, 
PA  19106. 


July  Green  Scene,  page  32.  "Building  a 
Community  Pond  in  a Community  Garden": 
the  photo  of  the  pond  on  page  32  was  by 
Denise  Jefferson,  not  Mary  Pat  Kane  as 
marked. 


Front  Cover:  Chinese  chives  and 
goldenrod.  See  page  6 

photo  by  Walter  Chandoha 


© Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  1988 


Green  Scene  subscriptions  are  part  of  the  membership  benefits  for: 


Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
Maryland  Horticultural  Society 
Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 


Blithewold  Gardens  and  Arboretum 
Hershey  Gardens  of  Hershey,  PA 


Back  Cover: 

photo  by  Tim  Morehouse 


/<?7c2# 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


Over  a lifetime,  the  average  person  may 
taste  about  six  or  eight  varieties  of  apples. 
These  are  the  ones  available  to  most  of  us 
in  the  local  grocery  store  or  farmer's  mar- 
ket. This  limited  experience  persuades  us 
that  apples  are  basically  round;  are,  with 
one  or  two  notable  exceptions,  usually  red; 
and  that  they  are  pretty  similar.  Rarely  do 
most  people  have  an  opportunity  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  a dozen  or  more 
varieties  of  apples  simultaneously  and  learn 
the  wonderful  and  subtle  differences  in 
color,  shape,  taste  and  texture  that  actually 
exist  among  the  many  varieties  of  this 
wonderful  fruit.  This  was  the  unique  pleas- 
ure a group  of  us  enjoyed  at  an  apple 
tasting  party  that  Jeff  and  I hosted  at  our 
home. 

Our  unusual  invitation  intrigued  our 
friends.  Since  most  of  them  are  interested 
in  good  food,  the  prospect  of  an  apple 
tasting  was  irresistible,  and  they  arrived  on 
a Sunday  afternoon  in  October  ready  for 
anything.  We  had  ordered  a sampler  of  12 
varieties  of  apples  from  Applesource  in  Illi- 
nois (see  sidebar),  all  of  which  were  un- 


common and  therefore,  unfamiliar  to  all  of 
us.  Our  plan  was  to  follow  the  model  of  a 
wine  tasting,  requesting  that  our  guests 
sample  each  of  the  varieties  of  apples  and 
then  evaluate  them.  We  hoped  to  deter- 
mine if  there  was  a favorite  apple,  one  that 
would  appeal  to  nearly  everyone,  or  if  indi- 
vidual tastes  would  prevail  and  there  would 
be  many  winning  varieties.  Of  course,  we 
also  hoped  to  have  fun. 

Careful  preparations  beforehand  con- 
tributed to  the  success  of  the  day.  First,  we 
carefully  designed  the  table  setting.  We  set 
out  around  the  circumference  of  the  dining 
room  table  two  of  each  variety  of  apple  on 
a dessert  plate  with  a small  paring  knife. 
We  labeled  each  place  setting  with  the 
apple  variety  the  guest  would  be  tasting. 
Since  we  were  expecting  16  guests,  we 
allowed  plenty  of  space  for  each  guest  to 
comfortably  approach  the  table  and  circu- 
late around  it  to  reach  the  apples.  Our 
apple  varieties  included  newer  ones  such 
as  Holiday,  Melrose,  and  Jonalicious;  Japa- 
nese varieties  such  as  Fuji  and  Mutsu,  and 
antique  representatives  such  as  Newton 


Pippin  and  Esopus  Spitzenburg. 

We  also  added  some  interesting,  but 
not  overpoweringly  strong,  types  of  cheese 
to  be  eaten  between  apple  tastings,  to 
clear  the  palate.  Here  we  tried  to  represent 
different  countries,  deciding  after  consult- 
ing with  people  at  the  local  cheese  store, 
on  Gruyere  from  Switzerland,  Creamed 
Havarti  from  Denmark,  Brie  from  France 
and  Blarney  from  Ireland.  Several  of  the 
guests,  already  in  the  spirit  of  the  occasion, 
contributed  homemade  sourdough  and 
French  breads,  which  we  augmented  with 
a loaf  of  fresh,  dark  pumpernickel.  Stan- 
dard alchoholic  beverages  common  at 
traditional  parties  are  not  appropriate  dur- 
ing the  tasting  process,  since  they  tend  to 
deaden  the  tastebuds.  So  we  offered  kir,  a 
Chablis  wine  mixed  with  enough  Creme  de 
Cassis  (black  currant  liqueur)  to  make  the 
wine  a rich  pink  color,  which  is  recognized 
as  an  effective  drink  for  cleansing  the  pal- 
ate. Luckily,  we  had  lots  of  seltzer  water  on 
hand,  too,  because  that  is  what  most  of  our 
guests  chose  to  drink. 

Finally,  we  developed  a scorecard  for 

continued 


3 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  Liz  Ball 


Since  the  apple  varieties  were  unkown  to  all  of  us,  we  did  not  devise  a blind  taste  test  similar  to  wine  tastings.  The  labels  helped  guests  keep  track 
of  which  apples  appealed  to  them. 


our  guests  to  rate  the  apples  they  were  to 
taste.  After  much  debate  we  decided  that 
the  characteristics  to  be  judged  should  be: 
color,  aroma,  texture,  taste.  These  would 
be  recorded  on  a scale  of  1 (poor)  to  10 
(excellent),  the  scores  being  totaled  to  arrive 
at  an  overall  rating  for  each  type  of  apple. 

Shortly  after  our  guests  arrived,  after 
they  had  a chance  to  great  each  other,  we 
handed  each  of  them  a scorecard  and 
pencil  We  invited  them  to  begin  their  tour 
around  the  table  at  whatever  point  they 
preferred,  slicing  a piece  from  each  type  of 
apple,  sampling  it,  then  recording  their  im- 
pressions. 

Apples  are  not  just  round  and  red;  they 
are  speckled,  striped,  pinkish,  beige,  yel- 
low or  green  or  maroon.  They  come  crispy 
and  soft  and  gradations  between;  and  tart 
and  sweet,  with  very  white  flesh,  and  cream 
colored  flesh,  and  tough  skin  and  tender 
skin  They  have  round  bottoms  and  pointed 
bottoms;  are  sometimes  huge  and  occa- 
sionally are  on  the  small  side.  Some  are 
downright  ugly  and  would  never  win  the 
beauty  contests  at  the  supermarket  pro- 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


duce  counter.  What  revelations  as  we  sur- 
veyed the  specimens  arrayed  on  the  table 
and  noted  the  obvious  differences. 

This  was  the  quietest  party  we've  ever 
had.  Our  friends  approached  their  assign- 
ment with  great  seriousness  and  the  room 
fell  quiet  as  they  sliced,  sampled,  smelled, 
thought,  wrote,  sipped,  munched  bread 
and  cheese,  then  moved  to  the  next  plate 
of  apples.  We  were  all  astounded  at  how 
sophisticated  our  standards  became  after 
sampling  four  or  five  varieties.  Many  guests 
became  partisans  of  one  or  another  of  the 
apple  varieties  on  the  table,  marveling  with 
each  new  taste  experience  how  distinctive 
each  apple  was. 

Tallying  ballots  was  the  climax  of  the 
afternoon.  The  noise  level  increased  im- 
pressively as  the  16  guests  gradually 
completed  their  scorecards  and  then  infor- 
mally debated  among  themselves  the  vir- 
tures  of  each  apple  variety.  They  chatted 
and  ate  more  bread  and  cheese  as  ratings 
were  toted  up.  The  winner?  A significant 
consensus:  the  Fuji.  This  apple  is  the  best 
selling  one  in  Japan  and  obviously  our 


party  guests  appreciated  its  virtures  too.  It 
is  huge,  with  an  attractve  russet  color,  and 
a crispy,  beautiful  white  flesh  that  is  pleas- 
ingly sweet.  It  has  a long  season  here  in  the 
US  and  is  rapidly  becoming  very  popular.* 
The  18  of  us  did  not  finish  all  24  apples, 
so  after  the  party  was  over,  my  mother 
peeled  and  sliced  the  remnants  and 
steamed  them  over  a little  water  with  lemon 
juice,  sugar  and  cloves  added,  until  they 
were  cooked  just  to  the  point  of  softening. 
This  impromptu  compote,  a blend  of  12 
different  apple  flavors,  was  a delicious 
conclusion  to  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  successful  parties  we  have  ever  given. 
• 

Liz  Ball  is  a photographer  specializing  in  cus- 
tom "Garden  Portraits"  and  plant  photography. 
Her  photographs  have  appeared  in  several 
national  magazines  and  are  featured  in  the  60 
Minute  Garden  and  Problem  Solver  books  by 
Rodale  Press 

'Editor's  note:  The  only  source  of  Fuji  apple 
tree  nursery  stock  we  could  find  on  the  East 
Coast  is  Adams  County  Nursery,  Aspers,  Pa 
17304  ACN  offers  a free  descriptive  catalog 
available  upon  written  request. 


Each  guest  tasted  a slice  of  apple,  then  rated  its  various  characteristics.  Each  was  surprised  by  the  variations  of  color,  flavor  and  texture  between 
the  12  varieties  tested. 


How  to  Order  for  Your  Apple  Tasting 
Party 

The  apple  tasting  party  was  suggested 
to  us  by  Jill  and  Tom  Vorbeck,  orchardists  in 
Illinois.  Their  Applesource  Company  pro- 
duces and  ships  60  different  varieties  of 
apples  all  over  the  country,  including  many 
of  the  hard  to  find,  old-time  favorites  such  as 
Northern  Spy,  Winter  Banana,  Northwestern 
Greening,  and  Golden  Russet. 

Apple  varieties  featured  at  our  party  were: 
Mutsu,  Melrose,  Esopus  Spitzenburg,  Blush- 
ing Golden,  Fuji,  Gala,  Swaar,  White  Winter 
Pearmain,  Golden  Russet,  Holiday,  Jonal- 
icious,  Newton  Pippin. 

Customers  can  select  the  varieties  from 
their  catalog  for  a Pick  Your  Own  box  of  12 
apples,  representing  six  different  varieties, 
or  the  Vorbecks  will  recommend  an  assort- 
ment as  they  did  for  us  Their  Sampler  Box 
has  12  apples,  each  one  a different  tasty 
variety  (often  obscure,  less  conventionally 
attractive  ones),  and  the  Explorer  Box  fea- 
tures six  modern,  very  good,  attractive  varie- 
ties 

Their  shipping  season  is  from  late  Octo- 
ber through  early  January,  although  orders 
can  be  placed  at  anytime.  They  will  mail 
orders  for  a specific  requested  date,  other- 
wise the  orders  will  be  shipped  about  two 


weeks  after  they  are  received  during  those 
months. 

For  information  write:  Tom  and  Jill 
Vorbeck,  Applesource,  Route  #1,  Chapin, 
Illinois  62628 

Sonoma  Antique  Apple  Nursery  offers  a 
Tasting  Pack  containing  two  apples  each  of 
12  different  varieties  selected  from  the  fol- 
lowing available  Baldwin,  Golden  Delicious, 
Newton  Pippin,  Sierra  Beauty,  Spitzenburg, 
Stayman  Winesap,  Winter  Banana,  Yellow 
Bellflower,  White  Pearmain,  Arkansas  Black, 
Black  Twig.  Granny  Smith,  Rhode  Island 
Greening,  Wagener  and  Lady  depending  on 
availability  October  1 Boxes  shipped  UPS 
October  5 Catalog  $1  UPS  air  shipment 
east  coast  Sonoma  will  offer  a Christmas 
pack  as  well  this  year 
Sonoma  Antique  Apple  Nursery 
4395  Westside  Rd. 

Healdsburg  CA  95448 
707-433-6420 

Applesource  and  Sonoma  are  the  only  two 
shippers  we  could  find  that  offer  any  breadth 
of  apple  varieties  for  shipping  If  you  want  to 
party  on  a more  modest  scale,  check  with 
your  local  orchard  or  county  extension  agent: 
the  Cooperative  Extension  offices  often  have 
lists  of  nurseries  and  their  specialities.  Here 


are  three  suppliers  close  to  home  that  you 
can  try 

Linvilla  Orchards 
Media,  PA 
215-876-7116 

Will  ship  via  UPS  to  anywhere,  beginning  in 
November  through  January. 

Golden  Delicious,  McIntosh,  Cortland,  Red 
Delicious,  Stayman  Winesap,  Empire,  Ma- 
coun.  Jonathan  available  for  three  weeks 
only,  call  for  ripening  times 

Snipes  Farm  and  Nursery 

Rte  1,  Morrisville,  NJ 

215-295-3092  Orchard  Hotline 

No  mail  order  Offers  Pick-Your-Own  August 

through  October  Varieties  ripen  at  different 

times,  so  call  for  schedule. 

Jerseymac,  Tydeman's  Red.  McIntosh, 
Cortland,  Macoun,  Red  Delicious,  Yellow 
Delicious,  and  Stayman  Winesap 

Styer  Orchards 

Woodbourne  Road,  Langhorne  PA 
215-757-7646 

No  mail  order.  Direct  to  customer  marketing 
on  premises. 

Red  Delicious,  Stayman  Winesap,  McIntosh, 
Jonathan,  Golden  Delicious,  Empire,  Ma- 
coun, and  Red  Rome. 


1 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


5 


The  modest  sunflower  happily 
basks  in  the  sun  before  stealing 
ibbon  or  two  at  the  Harvest 
Show.  Proper  conditioning 
will  preserve  the  quality  of  your 
flowers. 


TLC:  TENDER,  LOVING 
CONDITIONING  PAYS  OFF 
AT  THE  HARVEST  SHOW 


-m 


4 


* 


hammer 
and  crush 


A little  extra  care  can  net  a 
blue  ribbon  for  your  flowers 

(^)  by  Cheryl  Lee  Monroe 

When  I wander  through  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Horticultural  Society's  fall  Harvest  Show 
making  notes  on  flowers  to  consider  for  my 
garden,  I'm  sometimes  disheartened  when 
I see  well-grown  flowers  wilting  prema- 
turely. Flowers  need  not  die  quickly  and 
can  become  blue  ribbon  entries  when  con- 
ditioned properly. 

Conditioning  flowers  is  a designer's 
standby  for  prolonging  freshness,  and  their 
techniques  can  be  used  to  win  ribbons  at 
the  show  or  to  extend  the  life  of  flowers  at 
home. 

For  garden  flowers,  quality  also  depends 
on  the  special  care  the  plant  receives 
throughout  the  season.  The  nutrients  you 
supply  during  the  growing  season  enable 
flowers  to  hold  their  petals  longer  when  cut. 
Excessive  nutrients,  however,  lead  to 
growth  that  is  too  soft,  foliage  that  dam- 
ages easily  and  a short  life.  Water  and 
temperature  are  important  to  producing 
outstanding  specimens;  extremes  of  water 
or  temperature  stress  the  plant  and  reduce 
the  quality.  Grooming  plants  will  provide  a 
continuing  profusion  of  blooms.  Deadhead- 
ing and  removing  seed  pods  encourages 
plants,  annuals  in  particular,  to  continue  to 
produce  flowers. 

A season  of  nurturing  your  plants, 
coupled  with  good  cutting  and  condition- 
ing habits,  will  expand  the  life  of  your  flow- 
ers and  put  them  in  top  form  for  judging 
day.  When  a flower  is  picked,  it  immedi- 
ately responds  to  the  shock  of  cutting  by 
forming  a callus  or  layer,  not  unlike  skin, 
over  the  cut  to  reduce  the  amount  of  water 
that  is  lost.  There  are  several  ways  to  slow 
the  loss  of  water  and  improve  moisture  up- 
take. 

First  when  cutting  specimens  consider 
the  best  time  of  day  to  cut.  Cut  early  morn- 
ing or  late  evening  when  stems  are  most 
turgid.  Using  a sharp  knife,  cut  the  stem  or 
branch  on  an  angle  to  expose  as  many 
water  carrying  cells  as  possible.  With  the 
exception  of  chrysanthemums  (which  need 
leaves  for  maximum  water  uptake)  strip  the 
leaves  that  will  be  below  water  level  from 
the  stem,  and  place  stems  in  tepid  water. 
Tepid  water  is  best  for  garden  flowers 
because  it  reduces  the  shock  the  flower 
experiences  when  cut.  Carrying  a pail  of 
water  with  you  in  the  garden  is  a great  help 
when  possible.  Flowers  purchased  in  a 
florist  shop  and  those  that  wilt  are  best 
conditioned  in  warm  water. 

When  preparing  pails  of  water  for  condi- 
tioning your  blooms,  add  a drop  of  two  of 


Varieties  of  dahlias.  Look  for  favorites  among 
Harvest  Show  winners  — or  cut  and  condition 
for  a home  bouquet. 


bleach  to  the  water;  it  works  miracles. 
Bleach  reduces  the  amount  of  bacteria 
that  accumulates  and  clogs  the  stem  pre- 
venting water  uptake.  Flower  stems  will 
bleach  if  too  much  is  added  to  the  water. 
Floral  preservatives  can  be  purchased  from 
florist  shops  and  garden  centers  and  do  a 
wonderful  job  of  extending  the  life  of  flow- 
ers. These  preservatives,  in  addition  to 
keeping  down  the  growth  of  bacteria,  pro- 
vide a source  of  food  for  the  flower.  Don’t 
use  table  sugar  because  it  encourages 
bacteria  to  grow,  and  flowers  once  cut 
cannot  convert  this  sugar  into  a usable 
form  to  support  their  life  system. 

After  cutting  your  flowers,  leave  them  to 
soak  in  a pail  overnight  or  up  to  12  hours,  if 
possible.  A minimum  of  five  or  six  hours  will 
suffice  if  pails  are  placed  in  a cool,  dark 
place;  heat,  light  and  drafts  accelerate 
moisture  loss.  On  judging  day,  freshen 
flowers  with  a fine  spray  except  where 
petals  are  ruined  by  drops  of  water.  That 
includes  such  flowers  as  lilies,  sweet  peas 
and  stachys.  Plants  such  as  begonias 
absorb  moisture  through  both  their  stems 
and  petals,  so  dip  the  complete  bloom  in 
cold  water.  Then  allow  to  drain  and  place 
freshly  cut  stem  in  water. 

Conditioning  is  dependent  on  the  type 
of  stem  a plant  has.  Woody  plants  such  as 
Ilex , viburnums  and  evergreens  have  to 
work  harder  to  provide  food  and  mositure 
to  leaves  and  flowers.  Hammering  the  stems 
to  crush  the  fibers  or  splitting  them  helps 
expose  as  many  water  carrying  cells  as 
possible  allowing  maximum  water  absorp- 
tion. Fibrous  stems,  such  as  chrysanthe- 
mum, must  also  be  split,  and  all  need 
lengthy  soaking. 

Plants  with  predominantly  milky  sap  such 
as  euphorbias  and  poppies  are  difficult  as 
sap  clogs  the  water  carrying  cells.  Place 
stems  in  2 inches  of  boiling  water  for  sev- 
eral minutes  then  transfer  to  tepid  water. 
Flowers  or  buds  can  be  protected  from  the 
steam  by  wrapping  in  tissue  or  newspaper. 
Fleshy  soft  stems  of  bulbs,  corms  and  tu- 


bers such  as  dahlias  and  gladiolus  can  be 
cut  on  a slant  and  conditioned  in  cold 
water.  With  the  flowers  of  bulbous  plants, 
remove  the  white  base  section  as  water  is 
more  easily  absorbed  through  the  green 
parts  of  the  stems. 

The  optimum  method  for  flowers  with 
hollow  stems  such  as  delphiniums  and 
lupines  is  to  invert  the  stem,  fill  with  water 
plug  with  cotton.  Then  replace  the  stem  in 
water.  Amaryllis,  though  a bulb,  is  best 
treated  this  way  and  will  last  a long  time. 
For  odds  and  ends  such  as  ornamental 
ferns,  ivies,  ornamental  kale  and  cabbage, 
and  caladiums,  immerse  the  whole  stem  or 
branch  in  cold  water  for  up  to  four  hours. 

Roses  belong  in  a category  by  them- 
selves. A favorite  for  their  exquisite  beauty, 
they  are  a challenge  to  maintain  and  al- 
ways seem  fleeting . Cut  when  buds  are  just 
unfolding  and  showing  color,  and  remove 
all  unnecesary  foliage.  Removing  thorns 
will  assist  in  the  uptake  of  water  but  take 
care  not  to  damage  the  stem  by  tearing 
them  from  it. 

I hope  these  few  words  of  advice  will 
encourage  you  to  lavish  a little  extra  care 
on  the  flowers  in  your  garden  and  bring  a 
few  entries  to  the  Harvest  Show. 


The  Harvest  Show 
Members’  Preview  on  Friday,  September 
23rd  from  4:00-7:00  pm 
All  visitors  on  Saturday  and  Sunday,  Sep- 
tember 24  & 25  from  10  00  am-5  00  pm 
Exhibitor  entry  times  are  Thursday,  Sep- 
tember 22nd  from  5:00-8:00  pm  and  Friday, 
September  23rd  from  7:30-10:00  am 
Entries  are  judged  on  Friday,  September 
23rd. 

Schedules  can  be  requested  from  the  Soci- 
ety at  625-8250 

Classes  to  enter  your  flowering  plants: 

Design  Classes 

Floral  Bounty  (collection  of  fresh  blooms) 
Cut  Branches  (evergreens,  Ilex,  Viburnums, 
etc.) 

Annuals  (Celosia,  Marigolds,  Zinnias,  Cos- 
mos, etc.) 

Biennials 

Perennials  (Aster,  Chrysanthemums,  etc.) 
Bulbs,  Corms,  Rhizomes  and  Tubers  (Dahl- 
ias, Gladiolus,  Begonias) 

Roses 

Herbs 


Cheryl  Lee  Monroe  is  administrations  coordina- 
tor at  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society.  A 
graduate  of  the  University  of  Maryland,  she 
specialized  in  horticulture;  she  now  spends  her 
spare  time  gardening  and  designing  flowers  for 
various  events. 


7 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  South  Street  Design 


8 


Fairmount  Park: 

A Good  Beginning  or  the 
Beginning  of  the  End 


by  Anne  S.  Cunningham 


When  viewed  down  the  length  of 
the  Parkway,  the  red  oaks  look 
quite  uniform  and  give  the  overall 
impression  of  health;  however, 
many  individual  specimens  are  in 
terrible  conditon. 


Picture  a landscaped  plot  with  no  gar- 
dener. You  could  imagine  a romantic  ver- 
sion of  the  Secret  Garden  waiting  to  be  dis- 
covered, or  you  might  envision  a weed- 
and  disease-infested  mess  of  trees  and 
shrubs  struggling  for  survival.  Now  con- 
sider Fairmount  Park’s  8,700  acres  (2,300 
require  mowing  every  10  days,  spring 
through  fall)  and  try  to  guess  how  many 
people  it  would  take  to  keep  them  healthy. 

It’s  no  wonder  Fairmount  Park’s  tree 
crews  are  called  the  Undertakers.  They  are 
so  overwhelmed  with  work,  they  can  attend 
only  to  dead  and  dangerously  half-dead 
trees;  they  have  little  time  for  pruning,  spray- 
ing or  other  preventive  maintenance.  Plant- 
ing new  trees  is  wishful  thinking. 

In  addition,  Fairmount  Park  crews  are 
responsible  for  all  the  street  trees,  the  side- 
walk trees  throughout  Philadelphia's  neigh- 
borhoods. And  when  a park  tree  and  a 
street  tree  both  need  help,  the  street  tree 
usually  gets  the  attention  because,  as  Park 
Commissioner  Ernesta  Ballard  says,  “Park 
trees  don't  vote." 

Standard  tree  management  practice 
says  5%  of  any  tree  population  dies  each 
year  and  should  be  replaced.  Applying 
that  figure  to  250,000  street  trees  and  to 
the  millions  of  trees  in  the  Park  as  a whole, 
the  number  of  trees  Park  crews  need  to 
care  for  becomes  staggering.  Plowever, 
due  to  budget  limitations,  Park  tree  crews 
have  planted  fewer  than  100  trees  in  the 
past  decade.  Some  large  tracts  of  Fair- 
mount  Park  haven't  been  touched  since 
they  were  planted  more  than  a century 
ago.  The  best  the  Park  crews  can  do  is 
keep  up  with  calls  for  help. 

“This  Park  system  is  fragile,  and  the  city 
cannot  do  it  all,”  says  William  E.  Mifflin,  for- 
mer director  of  Operations  and  Landscape 
Management  for  Fairmount  Park,  who 
moved  up  to  Deputy  Commissioner  of  Main- 
tenance for  the  Department  of  Recreation 
last  spring.  “The  longer  we  delay,  the  longer 
it  will  take  to  bring  it  back  to  its  full  poten- 
tial.” 

Disease  and  distress  signals  were  ap- 
parent throughout  Fairmount  Park  when 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


The  Benjamin  Franklin  Parkway 
is  a favorite  location  for  citywide 
festivals,  but  the  soil  compaction 
caused  each  year  by  millions  of 
trampling  feet  has  predisposed 
the  trees  of  the  Parkway  to 
epidemic  disease. 


the  Park  Commissioners  agreed  on  the 
need  for  action.  They  commissioned  the 
landscape  architect,  urban  design  and  en- 
vironmental planning  firm  of  Wallace, 
Roberts  and  Todd  to  draw  up  a master 
plan,  which  was  adopted  in  December, 
1983.  By  1985-86,  using  the  plan  as  a 
guideline,  the  Commission  outlined  the 
following  objectives: 

•Expanded  tree  and  ground  mainte- 
nance crews. 

• Reforestation  and  restoration  of  key 
Park  areas: 

— Kelly  Drive 

— Franklin  Delano  Roosevelt  Park 
— Pine  Road  Picnic  Area 
— Logan  Square 

—The  Benjamin  Franklin  Parkway. 

• A comprehensive  tree  planting  pro- 
gram, including  establishing  a Fair- 
mount  Park  Nursery  where  specimen 
trees  could  grow  until  they  were 
needed. 


It  all  looks  good  on  paper,  but  the 
cost  of  fixing  one  Parkway  block  is 
somewhere  between  $150,000  and 
$180,000. 


The  Fairmount  Park  Commissioners 
agreed  with  Ernesta  Ballard's  expression 
of  moral  obligation  to  "plant  for  future  gen- 
erations because  that’s  what  people  did  for 
us.  When  trees  fall  down,  we  need  to  plant 
more,  but  it  takes  time  for  them  to  grow." 

the  Pew  Grant  for  Reforestation 

It  also  takes  money,  and  The  Pew  Chari- 
table Trusts,  in  1985,  offered  a total  of  $1 .3 
million  over  a four  year  period  for  a Fair- 
mount  Park  Reforestation  Project. 

Full  of  hope  for  the  future,  26  areas 
within  Fairmount  Park  were  selected  by 
Fairmount  Park  staff  under  the  direction  of 
William  E.  Mifflin  to  serve  as  models  for  re- 
forestation and  restoration  work.  The  cho- 
sen areas  offered  tremendous  horticultural 
challenges  for  what  they  could  show  about 
regeneration  of  abused  city  park  land. 

Michael  Nairn  and  Gary  Smith  of  South 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


Street  Design  Company  were  hired  to 
design  and  implement  the  work  along  with 
the  Park’s  staff. 

the  Ben  Franklin  Parkway 

The  stately  Ben  Franklin  Parkway  was 
one  of  the  26  sites  chosen  for  refurbish- 
ment. South  Street  Design  calls  it  "the  most 
interesting  horticultural  and  urban  design 
issue  in  Philadelphia.”  As  they  explain  it, 
the  tree-lined  Parkway  is  the  only  major 
architectural  space  in  Philadelphia  that’s 
defined  entirely  by  vegetation.  But  the  tall 
trees,  marching  down  the  Parkway  in  crisply 
lined-up  regiments,  are  riddled  with  dis- 
ease and  are  dying.  The  oaks  have  ob- 
scure scale,  the  London  plane  trees  have 
anthracnose,  and  there  is  evidence  of  the 
always-fatal  canker  stain  moving  into  the 
Parkway. 

The  challenge  of  rescuing  the  Ben  Fran- 
klin Parkway  was  to  maintain  the  architec- 
tural grandeur  while  removing  diseased 
trees.  No  one  wanted  to  hear  ’just  plant 
new  oaks,  wait  50  years,  and  it  will  look 
fine.’ 

South  Street  Design  proposed  rees- 
tablishing the  formal  allee  with  mixed  spe- 
cies. New  red  oaks  (Quercus  rubra),  to  tie 
in  with  those  that  were  still  alive,  red  maples 
( Acer  rubrum)  and  ash  (Fraxinus  ameri- 
cana),  all  upright  trees  with  straight  trunks, 
the  same  canopy  density  and  growth  habit, 
were  considered  to  fill  in  the  holes  where 
diseased  trees  were  removed.  From  an 
aesthetic  point  of  view,  the  most  important 
thing  became  not  what  species  was  planted 


but  that  the  new  trees  were  planted  in 
straight  lines  to  reinforce  the  linear  charac- 
ter of  the  Parkway  vegetation 

Soil  compaction  is  the  Parkway's  other 
major  problem.  In  addition  to  daily  pedes- 
trians, huge  crowds  trample  the  ground 
during  Parkway  extravaganzas.  Then  large 
vehicles,  driven  and  parked  on  the  ground 
to  service  the  crowds  and  clean  up  after 
them,  further  compact  the  soil.  The  trees 
no  longer  can  absorb  water  and  oxygen 
efficiently  through  the  concrete-like  soil, 
another  death  blow  to  vegetation  strug- 
gling to  survive  daily  automobile  exhaust 
and  other  urban  stresses.  Contrary  to  popu-  9 

lar  myth,  the  trees  don’t  die  from  lack  of 
water;  they  actually  drown  because  the 
water  sits  in  tiny  pockets  and  doesn't  dis- 
perse through  the  ground. 

Turf  and  soil  regeneration  solves  one 
problem,  when  workers  add  organic  fill, 
aerate  the  soil,  seed  and  fence  off  the 
space  from  the  public  until  the  turf  is  estab- 
lished. Another  solution  is  to  limit  the  num- 
ber of  major  crowd-gathering  events  held 
on  the  Parkway  each  year:  and  if  a group 
insists  upon  exceeding  that  limit,  the  spon- 
sor has  to  pay  for  soil  aeration  after  each 
event. 

It  all  looks  good  on  paper,  but  the  cost 
of  fixing  one  Parkway  block  is  somewhere 
between  $150,000  and  $180,000.  Some 
might  argue  that’s  too  much.  Others  insist 
the  job  should  be  done  correctly  and  there 
is  a lot  of  catch-up  work  to  be  done  as  well 
as  forward  movement.  If  the  Parkway,  and 
indeed  the  whole  Park,  are  going  to  be  the 

continued 


photos  by  South  Street  Design 


◄ 


A new  grove  of  golden  rain  trees 
adds  color  during  the  summer 
months  along  Kelly  Drive. 

Pennypack  Park  in  Northeast 
Philadelphia  rivals  the  Wissa- 
hickon  Valley  for  its  natural 
beauty,  but  decades  have 
passed  since  any  new  trees  have 
been  planted  there.  This 
floodplain  picnic  area  at  Pine 
Road  will  be  regraded  and 
planted  with  native  riverside 
species  such  as  bald  cypress, 
red  maple,  and  river  birch. 


pride  of  Philadelphia  and  not  a source  of 
embarrassment,  the  land  needs  a lot  more 


help  than  a few  new  trees  and  some  grass 
seed  sprinkled  around. 

Experience  says,  however,  that  it’s  easier 
to  raise  money  to  plant  things  than  it  is  to 
raise  money  to  take  care  of  what’s  already 
in  place.  ‘We’re  very  pleased  that  the  Pew 
Charitable  Trusts  gave  their  grant  for  de- 
ferred maintenance,  pruning  and  spray- 
ing, as  well  as  for  new  planting,"  says 
South  Street  Design's  Gary  Smith.  “The 
grant  is  a great  beginning.  The  money  will 
work  like  seeds:  it’s  going  to  grow  as  more 
support  comes  from  other  sources.” 

clearing  the  view  along  the  river 

Another  site  chosen  for  work  under  the 
Pew  Grant  involves  the  major  commuter 
routes  along  the  Schuylkill  River.  Michael 
Nairn  of  South  Street  Design  describes  the 


Thickets  of  invasive  ailanlhus,  box  elder,  asiatic  bittersweet,  and  norway  maple  have  obscured  the  views  of  the  Schuylkill  along  the  West  River  Drive. 
The  Vista  Clearing  Project  saved  the  best  trees,  such  as  specimen  quality  American  sycamore  and  European  alder,  and  opened  up  views  to  some  of 
Philadelphia's  most  beautiful  sights. 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


PLANT  A TREE  FUND 


There  are  millions  of  trees  in  Fairmount 
Park.  Thousands  of  them  are  lost  each  year  to 
old  age,  disease,  lightning,  accidents  and 
vandalism. 

The  tragedy  is  that  we  are  not  replacing 
these  losses.  There  are  not  enough  tax  dollars 
to  do  the  job.  For  the  past  ten  years  the  few 
new  trees  that  have  been  planted  were  pur- 
chased through  private  contributions. 

You  may  not  notice  what  is  happening, 
because  the  dead  trees  are  scattered  through- 
out the  hundreds  of  acres  of  our  parks.  But  if 
we  let  our  present  losses  continue,  one  of 
these  days  we  will  wake  up  and  find  sun- 
baked stretches  where  today  we  have  shady 
groves  and  woodlands  and  wild  areas. 

The  Park  needs  your  help.  Only  through 
your  contributions  can  Fairmount  Park  con- 
tinue to  be  the  pride  of  Philadelphia.  Only 
through  your  contribution  can  we  continue  to 
enjoy  a leafy  canopy  over  our  drives  and  walks 
and  picnic  grounds.  Only  if  you  act  today  can 
your  children  and  grandchildren  look  forward 
to  the  kind  of  parks  that  past  generations 
enjoyed 

The  way  to  help  is  to  make  a donation  to  the 
Fairmount  Park  Plant  A Tree  Fund.  Every  dollar 


is  needed  and  welcome  And  there  are  special 
opportunities  for  larger  gifts: 

A Special  Tree.  A $1 50  gift  will  plant  a ten- 
foot  tree  in  a park  area  of  your  choice,  and  you 
will  receive  a handsome  commemorative  cer- 
tificate plus  a well-justified  boost  to  your  civic 
pride. 

A Special  Grove.  A $1 100  gift  will  plant  a 
grove  of  ten  trees  dedicated  in  honor  of  a 
member  of  your  family,  a friend,  or  a group  you 
are  interested  in 

Contributions  not  designated  for  special 
trees  or  groves  will  pay  for  preserving  existing 
trees  and  shrubs  and  buying  new  ones.  Your 
favorites  are  on  our  list:  laurel,  rhododendron, 
dogwood,  shadbush,  ferns  and  many  more. 
Any  amount  you  can  give  — large  or  small  — 
will  provide  us  all  with  better  parks  and  help 
make  Philadelphia  a better  place  to  live 

Other  work  being  done  in  the  park  is  through 
the  60  to  70  groups  whose  members  support 
their  own  segment  of  Fairmount  Park.  Number- 
ing in  the  thousands,  these  special  volunteers 
come  under  a larger  umbrella  organization, 
Friends  of  Philadelphia  Parks  For  more  infor- 
mation write  Friends  of  Philadelphia  Parks, 
P.O.  Box  27291,  Philadelphia,  Pa  19118 


intent  of  the  original  design  "to  give  car- 
riage riders  a variety  of  scenic  experiences 
while  traveling  along  the  Schuylkill  River. 
Long  views  down  the  river  alternated  with 
passage  through  enclosed  spaces  heavily 
planted  with  ornamental  trees.  During  the 
last  two  decades,  the  groves  of  ornamen- 
tals declined  until  little  of  their  glorious 
spring  display  remained  and  the  experi- 
ence of  journeying  next  to  the  river  was  lost 
by  the  dominance  of  invasive  vegetation. 

“Through  careful  vegetative  manage- 
ment the  reforestation  project  has  cleared 
vistas,  planted  groves  of  cherry  trees  to 
celebrate  spring,  and  groves  of  golden- 


Thanks  to  the  generosity  of  the  Pew 
Charitable  Trusts,  a total  of  100  acres 
of  Fairmount  Park  has  been  saved 
from  horticultural  extinction  and  will 
flourish  for  decades. 


rain  tree  ( Koelreuteria  paniculata)  to  ex- 
tend the  blossoming  time  into  summer.  In 
addition  large  sections  of  turf  in  the  most 
heavily  used  areas  have  been  renovated." 

South  Street  Design  made  a “hit  list”  of 
species  that  had  to  be  removed,  and  they 
were  amazed  at  what  they  found  hidden  in 
the  undergrowth.  Box  elder,  Ailanthus, 
Norway  maple  and  asiatic  bittersweet 
headed  the  “hit  list.”  When  they  were  re- 
moved, gorgeous  specimen  river  birch  and 
european  alder  came  to  light.  They  discov- 
ered native  American  sycamores  ( Plata - 
nus  occidentalis)  with  beautiful  white  exfo- 
liating bark,  unlike  the  more  common  syca- 
more, the  London  plane  tree,  (Platanus 
acerifolia),  with  yellowish  patches.  Ameri- 
can sycamores,  according  to  South  Street 
Design's  Gary  Smith,  "are  unusual  to  find 
naturalized  in  a city,  but  we  uncovered  15 
or  20  along  West  River  Drive  that  are  very 
happy  along  the  river’s  edge.” 

Thousands  of  people  who  use  Kelly  Drive 
and  the  West  River  Drive  daily  now  appre- 
ciate the  vista  clearing  work  and  tell-tale 
orange  fences  that  surrounded  turf  regen- 
eration projects.  The  renovation  area 
cleared  25%  of  the  space  along  the  river 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


and  there  is  much  more  to  be  done. 

Other  areas  chosen  for  regeneraton 
under  the  Pew  Grant  are  scattered  through- 
out the  city,  representing  different  horticul- 
tural problems.  Northeast  Philadelphia's 
Pine  Road  Picnic  Area  presents  a great 
challenge  as  the  test  site  for  flood  plain 
picnic  areas  where  space  was  cleared 
long  ago  with  no  thought  about  the  muddy 
conditions  that  would  result.  The  designers 
see  a good  opportunity  to  use  red  maple 
and  white  ash,  both  tolerant  of  wet  condi- 
tions, and  bald  cypress. 

Standing  in  South  Philadelphia’s  Roosev- 
elt Park,  a Park  employee  commented  that 
“Center  City  was  always  getting  the  flow- 
ers.” South  Street  Design  went  to  the  Park 
with  the  worker  and  the  result  is  totally  new 
entry  planting,  with  flowering  trees,  shrubs 
and  perennials. 

Not  all  improvements  made  possible  by 
the  Pew  Grant  are  on  a large  scale.  Signifi- 
cant small  improvements  include  tilting  the 
flower  bed  around  Logan  Circle,  so  that  the 
floral  displays  could  be  seen  more  easily 


by  passing  motorists.  Twelve  inches  of  soil 
were  banked  along  the  back  of  the  bed, 
and  the  effect  is  a much  fuller,  more  color- 
ful field  of  flowers. 

Each  project  has  been  designed  with 
the  rest  of  Fairmount  Park  in  mind.  Thanks 
to  the  generosity  of  the  Pew  Charitable 
Trusts,  a total  of  100  acres  of  Fairmount 
Park  has  been  saved  from  horticultural 
extinction  and  will  flourish  for  decades. 
Future  Philadelphians  will  see  portions  of 
the  Park  as  it  was  meant  to  be.  Those 
involved  today  hope  the  work  will  inspire 
further  donations,  but  they  realize  it’s  diffi- 
cult to  care  about  trees  you  don’t  see  every 
day.  If  that’s  true,  thousands  of  acres  of 
Fairmount  Park,  the  largest  landscaped 
city  park  in  the  world,  could  be  neglected 
until  it’s  too  late. 

• 

Anne  S.  Cunningham  is  a free-lance  journalist 
who  writes  on  gardening  subjects.  A frequent 
contributor  to  Green  Scene;  she  has  also  written 
for  the  Philadelphia  Inquirer  and  Flower  & Gar- 
den Magazine 


HARVESTING  VEGETABLES: 

There's  Many  a Step  Between  Garden  and  Pot 

(^)  by  Libby  J.  Goldstein 


You  can  pick  your  garden  goodies 
anytime  you're  ready  and  they  are,  but  the 
newest  research  indicates  that  there  really 
is  a difference  between  the  nutrient  value 
of  vegetables  picked  on  a sunny  day  and 
those  picked  when  it's  cloudy.  The  cloudy 
day  harvest  will  be  lower  in  vitamin  C than 
the  sunny  day  goodies.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  your  harvest  sits  around  in  the  sun  for 
very  long  after  it’s  been  picked,  it  will  lose 
vitamin  C and  perhaps  some  B vitamins 
too,  and  you  know  your  lettuce,  greens, 
herbs  and  flowers  will  wilt  a lot. 

It’s  not  too  hard  for  home  gardeners  to 
preserve  the  nutrients,  flavor  and  texture  of 
the  vegetables  they  want  for  their  next 
meal.  All  they  have  to  do  is  pop  out  to  the 
garden  and  bring  in  just  what  they  plan  to 
eat.  But  when  you  live  a block  or  more 
away  from  your  veggies,  you  tend  to  pick 
everything  that’s  ready  and  take  it  home  to 
keep  until  your  next  garden  day.  Of  course, 
home  gardeners  with  a bumper  crop  of 
something  or  other  that  all  turned  ripe  at  the 
same  time  will  have  to  cope  with  the  same 
problems.  The  effulgence  will  have  to  be 
picked  along  with  dinner. 

picking  and  plucking 

After  years  of  gardening  around  the 
corner,  I realized  that  I had  developed  a 
method,  an  order  of  harvest,  if  you  will. 
When  you're  out  in  the  hot  sun  with  nothing 
cool  to  drink  within  blocks,  you  do  the  hard 
stuff  first;  creeping  about  on  the  ground 
searching  out  cornichons  that  insist  on 
hiding  until  they're  huge,  prickly  cucum- 
bers, for  example.  (After  a summer  of  that, 
my  cornichons  grow  on  trellises,  thank  you. ) 
Next  come  the  fruits  of  your  labor:  toma- 
toes, cucumbers,  eggplants,  peppers,  okra 
and  various  green  beans  All  of  these  go 
into  the  shade  as  soon  as  possible  while 
you  go  for  things  like  celery,  green  onions 
and  kohlrabi  that  don't  wilt  quickly  and  put 
them  in  the  shade  too.  Next  come  the 
herbs  and  finally,  leafy  stuff  and  flowers. 
These  last  two  do  much  better  if  you  have  a 
bucket  of  lukewarm  water  along  to  plop 
them  in  as  soon  as  they're  picked,  but 
some  days  a person  just  can't  face  walking 
down  a hot  street  with  pounds  and  pounds 
of  veggies  AND  a bucket  of  water,  greens 
and  flowers;  so  they  get  picked  after  gos- 
siping and  just  before  the  trek  home.  Any- 


way, that’s  the  method.  I’ve  never  had  the 
nutrient  values  of  my  crops,  checked,  but 
most  everything,  including  lettuce  is  in  good 
shape  when  I get  home. 

really  cool 

If  you've  decided  to  go  to  a pick-your- 
own  farm  for  really  great  corn,  for  more 
strawberries  than  a gardener  could  ever 
produce  or  enough  green  beans  to  last  you 
the  whole  year,  take  a cooler  with  plastic 
bags  full  of  ice  in  it.  You  can  even  take  your 


No  matter  what  anyone  tells  you, 
rhubarb  is  not  just  a spring  crop.  It’s 
perfectly  fine  to  pick  rhubarb  in  the 
fall.  I ’ve  been  doing  it  for  years,  and 
my  rhubarb  just  grows  and  grows. 
Indeed,  fall  is  more  fun. 


cooler  out  to  the  community  garden  and 
skip  the  method,  for  the  most  part. 

Whatever  temperature  your  veggies  like 
best,  reducing  their  “field  heat”  helps  them 
keep  better  and  slows  down  the  enzymes 
that  keep  them  ripening  till  they’re  well  past 
their  prime.  The  best  temperature  for  most 
things  is  32-35°  F.  according  to  the  Penn 
State  Urban  Gardening  Program  informa- 
tion sheet,  “Guide  to  the  Care  of  Fresh 
Vegetables  and  Fruits.”  But  do  keep  the 
exceptions  in  mind.  If  you  are  going  to  put 
your  harvest  in  a cooler  with  ice,  put  a 
piece  of  styrofoam  or  heavy  cardboard 
over  the  ice  before  you  pack  snap  beans, 
cucumbers,  eggplant,  melons,  okra,  pep- 
pers, pumpkins,  squash  (especially  winter 
squash)  and  tomatoes  whether  they're 
mature  green  or  ripe.  They  should  be  cooled 
but  do  better  at  temperatures  in  the  40’s 
and  50’s. 

corn  and  beans 

If  I were  a catalog  copy-writer,  I’d  put  in 
something  about  when  to  pick  my  wonder- 
ful weird  veggies.  It’s  fine  to  tell  folk  how  to 
grow  them  and  how  to  eat  them,  but  no  one 
seems  to  mention  the  important  step  in 
between:  the  harvest.  Yard-long  or  aspara- 
gus beans  ( Vigna  sesquipedalis)  will  grow 
almost  that  long,  but  that's  not  when  they 
taste  best.  They  taste  best  when  they’re  10 
inches  or  less  and  round  and  green  with  no 
beans  to  be  felt  inside  the  pod.  If  you're  not 


going  to  cook  them  immediately,  put  them 
in  a plastic  bag,  tie  the  top  and  put  them  in 
the  fridge,  preferably  in  the  hydrator.  Wash 
them  before  you  use  them  not  before  you 
store  them.  Fresh  soy  beans  ( Glycine  max) 
can  be  picked  at  either  of  two  stages: 
When  the  pods  are  well  filled  and  bright 
green  or  a little  later  when  the  pods  have 
got  a bit  yellowish.  Several  years  ago,  in  my 
soy  bean  period,  I sat  some  of  my  friends 
down  for  a soy  bean  taste  test.  We  blanched 
the  beans  for  three  minutes  or  so  to  make 
shelling  them  easy  and  popped  them  out  of 
their  pods  and  into  our  mouths.  The  con- 
sensus was  that  the  riper  ones  tasted  bet- 
ter, but  the  green  ones  were  good  too. 

Fava  or  broad  beans  ( Vicia  faba),  dow 
fu  in  Chinese,  can  be  eaten  at  various 
stages  if  you’re  not  one  of  those  people 
who  are  allergic  to  them.  When  they're  very 
small,  they  can  be  picked  and  used  like 
snap  beans;  when  you  can  feel  the  beans 
in  the  pods  or  see  their  outlines,  pick  them, 
take  them  out  of  the  pods  and  steam  them. 
My  Iranian  neighbor,  who  is  also  a chef, 
recommends  serving  them  with  a little 
ground  dried  sumac  berry  (available  at 
Bitar's  Market  at  1167  South  10th  Street). 
When  the  beans  are  very  visible  in  the 
pods,  and  the  pods  are  really  big,  shell 
them  out,  steam,  boil  or  pickle  them,  and 
remove  the  membranes  around  the  beans. 

I never  let  them  get  that  old.  Removing  a 
membrane  from  each  and  every  bean  is 
more  “prep  time”  than  I’m  willing  to  spend 
on  anything  in  life. 

Even  if  you  didn’t  order  'Baby  Asian’ 
corn  from  Le  Marche,  you  can  have  your 
very  own  3"  ears  from  your  last  planting. 
Pick  the  little  ears  just  as  the  silk  begins  to 
show  et  voila.  Next  year  you  can  actually 
plant  a baby  corn  patch  or  two.  Just  plant 
yor  seed  6"  apart  and  remember  to  pick  at 
the  right  time. 

cornichons  and  baby  veggies 

Cornichons  are  really  nothing  more  than 
baby  spiny  cucumbers  meant  for  pickling. 
If  you  haven’t  grown  them  on  a trellis,  you’re 
bound  to  miss  more  than  you  find,  at  least 
I did.  Not  to  fret,  the  large  size  looks  a bit 
mean,  but  it  makes  fine  pickles  anyway.  If 
you  do  find  them  when  they’re  small,  you 
can  make  really  crispy  whole  pickles  over- 
night: if  you  don’t,  just  slice  them  into  rounds 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photo  by  Steven  A Frowme 


round  or  egg-shaped  kinds,  pick  them  when 
they’re  1-2"  in  diameter. 

Though  I truly  love  Pak  choi  ( Brassica 
rapa,  Chinensis  group)  when  it's  full-sized 
and  usually  pick  it  stalk  by  stalk  as  the 
stalks  mature,  one  can  pick  entire  imma- 
ture heads  when  they’re  3-6"  high.  They  are 
tender  and  lovely  in  salad,  steamed  or  stir- 
fried  whole  and  perhaps  seved  over  pasta 
with  a sprinkling  of  chopped  pecans  and 
shredded  ham.  Whether  the  mustard  you’rje 
growing  is  as  American  as  ’Southern  Giant 
Curled’  or  as  Asian  as  ‘Mizuna’  (Brassica 
japonica  multisecta),  it  is  very  good  when 
young.  There  is  absolutely  no  need  to  pick 
the  whole  plant  (unless,  of  course,  you 
want  the  space  for  something  new).  I al- 
most always  pick  it  like  leaf  lettuce,  taking 


just  what  I need  and  leaving  the  rest  to 
grow,  either  till  it  looks  as  though  it’s  about 
to  bolt  in  summer  or  till  it’s  absolutely  going 
to  be  killed  back  in  late  fall  or  early  winter. 

greens 

If  you  want  lovely  tender  arugala  (Eruca 
sativa),  pick  it  early  and  often.  As  the  leaves 
get  older  their  flavor  becomes  more  in- 
tense and  they  get  tougher,  so  keep  it 
picked  like  lettuce.  If  it  does  bolt,  pick  the 
flowers.  Among  the  other  incredibly  chic 
veggies  that  California  chef  Alice  Waters 
brought  to  Reading  Terminal  Market  last 
spring  for  Philadelphia's  “The  Cook  and 
The  Book’’  celebration  were  bunches  of 
broccoli  flowers.  Like  its  mustard  cousins, 
radish,  Pak  choi,  etc.  arugala’s  flowers  are 
really  nice  in  salads  or  dotted  over  cooked 
vegetables,  yard-long  beans  or  Brussels 
sprouts,  for  instance.  If  you’re  going  to  use 
the  flowers  in  a salad,  toss  the  salad  and 
dressing  first  and  then  sprinkle  on  the  flow- 
ers. 

There  are  several  ways  to  harvest  cori- 
ander ( Coriandrum  sativum)  leaves,  other- 
wise known  as  cilantro,  cilantrillo  or  Chi- 
nese parsley.  Since  the  roots  are  used  in 
some  Asian  recipes,  one  might  want  to  pull 
the  whole  plant  as  soom  as  the  rosette  of 
rather  flat  leaves  is  full.  If  you  only  want  the 
leaves  for  Asian,  Mexican  or  North  Arfican 
recipes,  you  can  pick  them  as  you  would  13 
lettuce  or  parsley  and  then  harvest  the 
whole  plant  just  as  it  begins  to  form  the 
feathery  leaves  that  precede  flowering.  If 
you  are  going  to  use  your  cilantrillo  in  sofrito 
(see  Jan.  1988  Green  Scene,  page  25)  pull 
the  whole  plant  just  as  the  flower  buds 
form. 

Benincasas  and  other  things 

Fuzzy  gourd  or  mao  gwa  ( Benincasa 
hispida)  is  one  of  my  favorite  Chinese 
vegetables,  particularly  since  it  doesn't 
seem  to  be  attacked  by  such  foul  beasts  as 
cucumber  beetles  and  squash  vine  borers. 

It  is  a little  cousin  of  the  winter  melon  and, 
if  picked  when  it’s  6-8"  long  and  left  lying 
about  on  the  kitchen  counter,  it  will  eventu- 
ally develop  the  same  white  waxy  coating 
as  the  winter  melon.  If,  however,  you  pick  it 
when  it’s  4-6"  long,  it  is  tender  and  wonder- 
ful raw  or  cooked.  I usually  rub  the  fuzz  off 
or  peel  it  and  eat  it  raw.  It  seems  to  me  to 

continued 


‘For  a copy  of  recipe  send  stamped  self-ad- 
dressed  envelope  to:  Green  Scene  HV,  Pennsyl- 
vania Horticultural  Society,  325  Walnut  Street, 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


Pak  choi  ( Brassica  rapa  Chinensis  group). 

and  do  up  a batch.* 

Baby  veggies  are  just  that:  generally  im- 
mature (and  often  without  the  flavor  of  more 
mature  specimens).  Picking  baby  squash 
of  any  variety  means  taking  it  when  it’s  only 
2-3"  long  (an  inch  in  diameter  for  patty  pan 
and  other  roundish  sorts).  If  you  want  baby 
eggplant,  try  to  wait  until  the  little  thing  has 
shiny  skin.  Of  course,  if  you’re  growing 
something  like  ’Bride,’  its  skin  never  really 
does  get  very  shiny;  pick  it  when  it’s  2-3" 
long.  To  my  taste,  the  long  Asian  cultivars 
are  better  candidates  for  picking  young 
than  the  round  kinds,  but  if  you’re  growing 


Squash  Blossoms 


baby  squash 

' male  //  female 
squash  //  squash 

taste  like  a cucumber  dressed  with  a bit  of 
lemon  juice.  It’s  a bit  bland  when  cooked 
but  is  a wonderful  vessel  for  all  manner  of 
stuffings  and  sauces. 

Winter  melon,  also  Benincasa  hispida, 
should  be  treated  like  any  other  winter 
squash  and  picked  when  its  rind  is  hard 
and  its  stem  woody.  Over  time  it  will  de- 
velop its  waxy  coat;  it  may  even  start  in  the 
garden,  which  is  another  way  to  tell  that  it’s 
ready  to  harvest.  It  is  a super  storage  vege- 
table. Philadelphia  Chinatown  Development 


I used  to  think  the  thing  to  do  was  to 
keep  parsley  and  cilantro  in  a glass 
of  water  in  the  fridge,  but  Dona 
Valentina  Rios,  a serious  cilantrillo 
grower,  told  me  I was  doing  it  all 
wrong,  and  she  was  right:  both  last 
much  longer  in  plastic  than  they  did 
in  the  water  glass. 


Corporation  exhibited  one  at  several  Har- 
vest Shows  (it  was  only  in  competition  the 
first  year,  however)  before  it  was  finally 
eaten. 

Nowadays,  a person  can  actually  buy 
seeds  for  squash  that  have  been  specially 
selected  to  provide  squash  blossoms  to 
the  connoisseur.  If  you  didn’t  buy  them  this 
year,  however,  you  can  pick  the  blossoms 
off  your  regular  squash  plants.  Being  a 
kind  of  miser,  I object  to  picking  female 
squash  blossoms  because  one  has  to  pick 
the  little  baby  squash  with  the  flower.  You 
can  steam  the  infant  squash  and  its  flower. 
Just  cut  the  blossom  twice  the  long  way 
stopping  before  it  joins  the  fruit;  steam  for 
two  or  three  minutes  and  spread  the  cut 
blossom  out  like  afan  to  serve.  Even  though 
the  females  are  a bit  easier  to  handle,  I 
prefer  to  pick  male  blossoms  for  stuffing. 
That  way  I get  a double  harvest:  flowers 
and  fruit.  Whichever  you  choose,  take  the 
flowers  in  late  morning  while  they're  still 
open  and  fresh.  (Picking  male  blossoms 
early  in  the  morning  keeps  the  bees  from 
taking  their  pollen  and  carrying  it  off  to  the 
females.)  Be  sure  to  leave  the  stem  or 
immature  fruit  on  the  blossom.  It  will  be 
easier  to  handle  in  the  kitchen. 

If  you  didn’t  buy  any  rat-tail  radish 
( Raphanus  sativus  Caudatus ) from  Seeds 
Blum  this  year,  you  can  still  serve  radish 
pods  in  your  salad.  Most  of  us  who  plant 
radishes  and  have  weird  schedules  find 
radish  blossoms  growing  in  our  gardens. 
You  don’t  have  to  pick  all  of  the  flowers  for 
salad;  just  wait.  Seed  pods  will  form  and 


Fuzzy  gourd  or  Chinese  melon  (Benincasa  hispida). 


can  be  picked  when  they  are  green,  shiny 
and  full.  Of  course  they  will  not  grow  9"  long 
like  the  rat-tails,  but  they  will  be  good  in 
salads,  stir  fries  and  such. 

No  matter  what  anyone  tells  you,  rhu- 
barb is  not  just  a spring  crop.  It’s  perfectly 
fine  to  pick  rhubarb  in  the  fall.  I’ve  been 
doing  it  for  years,  and  my  rhubarb  just 
grows  and  grows.  Indeed,  fall  is  more  fun. 
There  are  ever  so  many  fruits  and  herbs 
and  spices  around  then,  and  rhubarb  is  a 
wonderful  base  for  all  manner  of  chutneys 
and  preserves.  If  you  have  it,  pick  some 
now.  Just  remember  to  pick  the  outer  stalks 
only.  Rhubarb  Is  also  swell  later  combined 
with  cranberries  and  honey  or  boiled  cider, 
enough  to  satisfy  your  sweet  tooth  (or  keep 
you  mouth  from  getting  all  puckered  up.) 


Simmer  it  in  a tiny  bit  of  water,  till  it’s  barely 
tender,  add  the  cranberries  and  cook  over 
medium  heat,  adding  sweetening  to  taste, 
till  the  berries  just  pop.  The  sauce  will  jell  all 
by  itself.  You  can  either  put  it  into  hot 
sterilized  jars,  put  on  canning  lids  pre- 
pared according  to  the  manufacturer's 
directions  and  process  in  a boiling  water 
bath  for  five  minutes  or  spoon  it  into  your 
favorite  cranberry  sauce  container,  cover 
and  refrigerate.  It  will  keep  for  months  in 
the  refrigerator. 

in  the  kitchen 

Practically  everyone  I know  throws  their 
entire  harvest  into  a sink  full  of  water  as 
soon  as  they  get  it  home.  It’s  good  practice 
for  some  things  if  you  want  to  keep  them 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  Steven  A Frowine 


crisp  and  fresh,  but  don't  just  drown  every- 
thing. Berries  absolutely  shouldn't  be 
soaked  in  water,  nor  should  lima  and  snap 
beans,  Brussels  sprouts,  savoy  cabbage, 
cauliflower,  corn,  cucumbers  (unless  you're 
saving  a bunch  for  future  pickling),  egg- 
plant, leeks,  head  lettuce  and  individual 
lettuce  leaves,  melon,  okra,  onions,  pep- 
pers, pumpkins,  scallions,  squash  and 
tomatoes. 

Beets,  however,  just  love  being  soaked 
in  cool  water  until  they've  firmed  up,  but  if 


Add  salt  to  the  soak  if  cabbage  worms 
or  aphids  have  been  a problem. 
Should  your  garden  be  near  a street 
with  a lot  of  traffic,  adding  vinegar  to 
the  soaking  water  will  remove  most 
of  the  lead  from  automobile  exhausts. 


you’ve  picked  them  with  their  leaves,  keep 
the  leaves  dry  while  the  roots  have  their 
bath.  Beets  keep  best  at  32-35°  F.,  and  I 
like  to  keep  them  in  a plastic  bag  that's  big 
enough  for  the  leaves  not  to  get  crushed 
together. 

Broccoli,  on  the  other  hand  shouldn't  be 
soaked  unless  it's  full  of  aphids.  Just  stand 
it  up  in  2-3  inches  of  water  for  several 
minutes,  sprinkle  the  florets  lightly,  and 
refrigerate  it.  Parsley  and  cilantro  can  be 
treated  the  same  way.  They  keep  very  well 
in  a loosely  closed  plastic  bag  after  sprin- 
kling. I used  to  think  the  thing  to  do  was  to 
keep  them  in  a glass  of  water  in  the  fridge, 
but  Dona  Valentina  Rios,  a serious  cilan- 
trillo  grower,  told  me  I was  doing  it  all 
wrong,  and  she  was  right:  both  my  cilan- 
trillo  and  parsley  last  much  longer  in  palstic 
than  they  did  in  the  water  glass. 

Red  and  green  cabbage  and  all  manner 
of  greens  should  be  soaked  in  cool  water 
for  30-40  minutes  (20-30  minutes  for  en- 
dive, escarole  and  radicchio),  drained, 
sprinkled  heavily  and  refrigerated.  Add  salt 
to  the  soak  if  cabbage  worms  or  aphids 
have  been  a problem.  Should  your  garden 
be  near  a street  with  a lot  of  traffic,  adding 
vinegar  to  the  soaking  water  will  remove 
most  of  the  lead  from  automobile  exhausts. 
If  you  pick  a whole  leaf  lettuce  plant,  it  will 
keep  best  if  you  soak  it  in  cool  water  for  1 5- 
20  minutes  and  then  drain  it  butt  up.  (If  you 
want  to  show  it,  wrap  the  drained  lettuce  in 
a damp  paper  towel,  put  it  in  a plastic  bag 
and  refrigerate  it.  We  had  one  hold  up  for 
three  days  with  its  roots  in  water  after  treat- 
ing it  that  way.)  Head  lettuce,  however, 
should  not  be  soaked  at  all,  just  sprinkle  it 


Chinese  parsley  (Coriandrum  sativum). 

lightly  and  refrigerate. 

Carrots,  daikon,  parsnips  and  turnips 
should  be  soaked  in  cool  water  until  they’re 
firm,  but  radishes  should  only  be  soaked 
for  5-10  minutes.  After  draining,  my  trick  is 
to  sprinkle  the  inside  of  the  plastic  bag  that 
I’m  going  to  put  them  in  with  just  the  least 
bit  of  water,  bag  them  and  refrigerate.  I 
think  it  works  better  than  sprinkling  the 
drained  roots  themselves.  Despite  its  re- 
semblance to  the  root  vegetables,  I’ve  found 
that  kohlrabi  keeps  all  winter  long  if  it’s  just 
put  in  a plastic  bag  and  refrigerated.  I don’t 
even  wash  it  till  I'm  ready  to  use  it. 

While  most  of  your  harvest  will  keep 
best  at  cool  temperatures  (and  corn  will 
stay  sweet  longer  if  you  keep  ice  on  it), 
some  things  shouldn’t  be  chilled.  Cucum- 
bers, eggplant,  red  tomatoes,  peppers, 
okra  and  winter  squash  like  to  be  cool  (50° 
or  so),  but  really  lose  flavor  and  texture  if 
kept  any  cooler.  If  you  want  to  ripen  green 
tomatoes  instead  of  frying  them  or  using 
them  in  chutney,  keep  them  at  55-65°  F. 

Depending  on  whose  instruction  you 
read,  celery  should  either  be  chilled  in  a 
cold  water  bath  after  picking  ( The  Organic 
Gardener's  Guide  to  Vegetables  and  Fruits, 
Rodale  Press,  Editors,  Emmaus,  Pa.,  1982) 
or  soaked  for  20-30  minutes  at  room  teme- 
prature  water  and  then  drained  butt  up 
before  refrigeration  (Penn  state  Urban 
Gardening  Program;  Guide  to  the  Care  of 
Fresh  Vegetables  and  Fruits).  I usually  pop 
mine  in  a lightly  sprinkled  plastic  bag  and 
refrigerate  at  once.  The  common  thread 
here  is  to  remove  the  “field  heat,”  crisp  up 
the  celery  and  then  keep  it  slightly  moist  at 
32-35  degrees,  so  it  will  be  lovely  and 
crispy  when  you  serve  it. 

curing  and  storing 

Some  crops  need  to  be  cured  before 
they  ever  get  to  the  kitchen  or  wherever 
you  plan  to  store  them.  Curing  toughens 
their  skin  and  lets  any  bruises  or  surface 
cuts  heal  so  molds  and  rots  will  have  trouble 
getting  a foothold.  It  also  allows  starches  to 
change  into  sugars  and  reduces  the  vege- 
tables’ moisture  content  so  they’ll  keep 
better. 


Onions  should  be  spread  in  an  airy 
sunny  spot  for  three  days  to  a week  before 
being  brought  inside  to  dry  even  further  in 
a warm  dry  place  out  of  the  sun.  If  the 
weather  is  damp,  bring  them  inside  at  night 
during  their  outdoor  rest  cure.  While  garlic 
and  shallots  also  benefit  from  curing  out- 
doors for  several  days,  they  sould  be  held 
in  a shady  spot.  Store  them  near  32°,  but 
keep  them  as  dry  as  possible. 

The  easiest  thing  to  do  with  sweet  pota- 
toes is  to  use  them.  Curing  them  can  be  a 
mite  complicated.  After  drying  in  the  sun 
for  an  hour  or  so  after  digging,  they  need  to 
be  cured  in  a warm,  80-90°,  dark,  humid 
place  for  two  weeks.  If  you  can’t  find  a 
suitable  location,  and  I never  can,  cure 
them  for  three  weeks  at  65-75°.  If  you  don't 
have  a pressure  canner,  don't  even  think 
about  canning  them,  store  them  in  a mod- 
erately dry  place  (like  a cellar)  at  55-60° 

I never  grow  enough  Yellow  Finns  and 
other  “white”  potatoes  to  worry  about  long- 
term storage;  however,  if  you've  dug 
enough  potatoes  to  store,  be  sure  to  cure 
them  in  the  dark  in  a dry  spot  with  tempera- 
tures from  60-75°.  That  will  let  their  skins 
thicken  enough  to  store  well  in  a moder- 
ately moist  place  at  35-40°  through  late  fall 
and  winter. 

On  the  rare  occasions  when  I’ve  not  lost 
my  whole  winter  squash  or  pumpkin  crop 
to  borers  and  squash  bugs,  I’ve  just  let 
them  sit  on  my  kitchen  counter  till  I'm  ready 
to  eat  them.  Since  the  kitchen  is  air  conditi- 
ned  in  hot  weather,  it's  fairly  dry,  and  the 
temperature  usually  runs  between  75  and 
80°.  I had  the  right  curing  conditions  with- 
out even  knowing  it.  It  only  takes  a week  or 
so  to  cure  these  guys,  and  they  really 
shouldn't  be  stored  on  the  counter.  They’ll 
last  well  into  winter  and  taste  better  if  you 
keep  them  at  55°  in  a fairly  dry  place  like  a 
cellar.  If  your  cellar  tends  to  be  humid  like 
mine,  you  might  want  to  make  some  squash 
or  pumpkin  pasta*  and  freeze  it,  assuming 
there’s  enough  room  in  the  freezer. 

I much  prefer  picking  fruit  and  vege- 
tables to  deadheading  flowers.  The  work  is 
much  the  same.  The  rewards  are  much 
different.  Having  food  that's  at  its  best  when 
you’re  ready  to  eat  it  is  one  of  the  great 
pleasures  of  a well  cared  for  harvest. 

• 

Libby  Goldstein  was  director  of  Penn  State's 
Urban  Gardening  Program  for  10  years  during 
which  time  she  wrote  a weekly  column,  The  City 
Gardener,  for  the  Daily  News  She  is  a frequent 
contributor  to  Green  Scene  and  has  written  for 
National  Gardening  and  Organic  Gardening 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


AN  AUTUMN  BORDER  WITH 


Mums  are  not  pinched  but 
allowed  to  grow  leggy  and 
encouraged  to  spill  over  the 
edge  blurring  the  lines. 


(^)  by  Andrew  Ducsik 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  Andrew  M.  Ducsik 


ALL  YEAR  INTEREST 


Variegated  foliage  combines 
with  long  blooming  perennials 
to  give  two  months  of  color. 


I think  the  first  in  a series  of  inspirations 
for  an  autumn  border  began  when  I saw  a 
picture  of  Gertrude  Jekyll's  Michaelmas 
daisy  garden  at  her  home  Munstead  Wood 
in  Surrey.  The  picture  showed  a glorious 
sight  of  subdued  but  full  color  with  textural 
interest  given  by  edging  and  other  plants. 
It  was  designed  to  be  spectacular  during 
September  and  October  but  could  have 
had  little  color  or  interest  at  other  times  of 
the  year. 

The  idea  of  one  season  gardens  is  not 
new  or  limited  to  a special  type  of  garden. 
Woodland  gardens,  for  the  most  part,  are 
for  springtime  flowers  only,  becoming 
mostly  green  but  no  less  beautiful  later. 
Rose  time  in  June  or  later  in  high  summer 
with  July  and  August  perennials  are  other 
examples  of  one  season  gardens.  The  main 
advantage  of  these  seasonal  gardens  or 
borders  has  been  the  concentration  of 
bloom  and  color  at  one  time.  And  the  flip 
side  of  the  one  season  garden,  the  main 
disadvantage,  is  often  low  interest  during 
the  balance  of  the  year.  I have  tried  to 
overcome  this  disadvantage  and  describe 
here  my  own  approach  to  an  autumn  bor- 
der. 

The  dimensions  of  my  border  are  20  ft. 
long  by  7 ft.  wide.  A firm,  strong,  design  is 
given  by  a 6 ft.  wall  running  behind  the 
border  and  an  edging  in  front  of  small 
stones.  Within  this  frame,  shrubs  and  her- 
baceous plants  are  tightly  packed. 

An  evergreen  background  against  the 
wall  was  essential  since  the  border  is  viewed 
through  the  french  doors  of  the  main  sitting 
room,  and  I wanted  to  sustain  year-round 
interest.  The  dark  green  also  served  as  a 
better  contrast  to  the  color  in  front  than  the 
cream  colored  stucco  wall.  Hollies  and 
azaleas  provide  this  background  for  the 
most  part. 

Flowers  were  chosen  for  bloom  during 
September  and  October.  I wanted  to  keep 
the  colors  muted:  blues,  mauves  and  pinks, 
with  soft  yellows  for  contrast.  The  yellows 
are  achieved  with  variegated  shrubs  and 
plants  (hollies,  hostas)  and  chry- 
santhemums. Eupatorium,  asters  and  more 
chrysanthemums  finish  off  the  scheme. 
Some  ferns  add  dashes  of  green  in  the 
right  places. 

The  placement  of  the  herbaceous  plants 
was  most  important.  To  achieve  a natural, 
airy  and  unstudied  look  I interspersed  the 

continued 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photo  by  Andrew  M Ducsik 


18 


Lots  of  green  from  ferns  and 
hollies  and  the  leaves  of  the 
perennials  themselves  set  off 
the  flower  colors  and  make 
them  more  beautiful  than 
solid  masses  of  color. 


plants  around  the  permanent  shrubs.  The 
chrysanthemums  were  not  pinched  and 
the  lanky  asters  grew  through  their  shrub 
hosts  for  support.  They  were  allowed  — 
encouraged — to  tumble  over  the  stone 
edging  blurring  the  formal  lines. 

This  planting  gives  a satisfying  color 
picture  for  two  months  with  almost  no  main- 
tenance. The  evergreen  and  variegated 
foliage  keeps  it  looking  good  during  the 
balance  of  the  year.  The  secret  of  its  suc- 
cess, I think,  lies  in  the  firm  lines,  structure 
and  background  from  evergreen  shrubs, 
simple  planting  scheme,  and  informal 
grouping. 

If  you  want  to  begin  your  own  autumn 
border  start  by  choosing  a site  with  at  least 
half  sun  out  of  the  wind,  some  established 
background  such  as  a wall  or  hedge  or 
fence  is  always  helpful.  I think  a 5 ft.  width 
is  a minimum,  the  length  can  be  adjusted  to 
your  site.  Next  select  your  evergreen  back- 
ground. I prefer  holly.  I love  its  rich  glossy 
leaves  and  berries.  Azaleas  gave  an  extra 
bonus  of  color  in  spring  as  well  as  the 
needed  evergreen  background,  but  you 
could  use  any  broadleaved  evergreen  or 
needled  evergreen  that  would  take  prun- 


ing (yew,  hemlock,  juniper,  rhododendron); 
these  are  planted  in  a row  but  allowed  to 
grow  together  for  a natural  look. 

Next  select  the  second  tier  of  shrubs, 
concentrating  on  variegated  leaves  or 
plants  with  leaves  colored  other  than  green 
and  plants  with  bold  foliage,  deciduous  or 
evergreen.  Plant  these  in  front  of  your 
background  — not  in  a row  but  staggered. 

The  best  fun  begins  when  you  paint 
your  picture  with  the  flowers.  Make  your 
plant  selections  when  the  mums  and  asters 
are  in  bloom  at  the  garden  centers.  Then 
group  colors  together  and  be  sure  to  keep 
the  planting  informal  with  some  to  the  front 
some  to  rear,  gaps  here  and  there.  You  will 
have  an  instant  and  attractive  picture.  But, 
the  best  will  be  next  year  when  the  tightly 
pinched  plants  of  this  year  grow  lanky, 
twine  themselves  around  the  shrubs  and 
spill  all  over  your  firm  design. 

• 

Andrew  Ducsik  is  a partner  in  Noble  Landscap- 
ing, garden  designers  and  installers.  During 
free  time  he  enjoys  developing  and  refining  his 
own  garden  in  Chestnut  Hill,  reading  about 
gardens  and  visiting  gardens  here  and  in  Eng- 
land. 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


illustration  by  Michael  Herquet 


AN 

URBAN  GARDENING 
GUERILLA  COMPOSTS 

(^)  by  James  Wiegand 


Pick  up  an  average  handful  of  city  soil. 
Chances  are  that  is  is  mostly  clay,  exca- 
vated from  below  grade  to  form  the  base- 
ment of  the  nearby  house.  Not  very  pretty 
to  look  at,  this  lump  of  yellow,  sticky  de- 
composed rock,  compressed  to  lumpy 
tenacity  by  decades  of  traffic.  Dig  deeper, 
below  the  fill  level,  and  you’ll  find  the 
remnants  of  building  debris,  broken  con- 
crete, maybe  even  the  foundations  of  homes 
that  stood  and  fell  long  ago.  Such  was  the 
soil  I had  to  deal  with  when  I decided  I was 
born  to  grow  vegetables. 

Taming  this  soil  would  require  the  addi- 
tion of  compost.  There  was  only  one  prob- 


By  the  time  hard-frozen  ground  had 
put  an  end  to  my  collection  spree, 
there  were  85  bags,  almost  three 
thousand  gallons  of  leaves  in  all. 


lem  with  using  compost  in  my  garden:  I 
didn't  have  any. 

My  yard  is  mid-sized,  around  one  thou- 
sand square  feet,  and  I had  to  amass  a 
mountain  of  raw  leaves  to  have  enough 
compost  to  spread  around.  But  my  holly 
tree  and  my  neighbor’s  maple  only  pro- 
duced a few  bushels  of  fallen  leaves  at 


most  — far  short  of  what  I wanted.  I won- 
dered if  I ever  could  get  enough  compost 
to  make  a difference  in  my  soil. 

Last  fall,  I found  the  answer  sitting  on 
the  curb  of  the  row  houses  on  my  block, 
prepackaged  and  waiting  for  me  to  come 
along.  In  the  process  of  cleaning  their  yards 
of  fallen  leaves,  homeowners  have  pre- 
pared the  richest  ingredient  for  building  a 
compost  heap  — a mixture  of  leaves,  dead 
grass,  and  soil  that  is  primed  and  ready  to 
ignite.  All  that  has  to  be  done  is  to  collect 
the  raw  material  and  give  it  a home  in  which 
to  ignite. 

Collecting  these  leaves  meant  driving 


continued 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


URBAN  GARDENING  GUERILLA 


around  with  one  eye  on  the  curbside,  trying 
to  divine  the  contents  of  dark  green  bags  at 
a glance,  while  steering  clear  of  parked 
cars  and  traffic.  Most  times  I had  to  park  a 
considerable  distance  from  my  quarry, 
since  by  the  time  I realized  that  a home  had 
bags  of  potential  mulch  out  in  front  of  it,  I 
had  long  passed  the  mark.  My  one  hope  is 
that  carrying  dozens  of  bulging,  wet  bags 
half  a block  through  the  rain  and  snow  had 
more  redeeming  value  than  building  soil  or 
working  out  my  untrained  muscles. 

Getting  the  bags  home  in  my  van  was 
no  problem,  as  most  of  my  compost  mate- 
rial was  collected  from  within  a four-block 
radius  of  my  home.  There,  I piled  the  bags 
up  in  my  driveway  to  await  the  spring  and 
the  building  of  the  compost  heap,  adding 
every  week  of  the  fall  to  the  growing  moun- 
tain. By  the  time  hard-frozen  ground  had 
put  an  end  to  my  collection  spree,  there 
were  85  bags,  almost  three  thousand  gal- 
lons of  leaves  in  all. 

When  everything  melted  in  the  late  win- 
ter I realized  that  I had  no  place  for  this 
outburst  of  organic  material.  The  first  order 
of  the  garden  was  to  build  the  Composter, 
a giant  raised  bed  fully  eighteen  feet  long, 
four  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  deep.  Using  the 
logs  left  over  from  clearing  out  a maple  tree 
from  the  yard  (to  make  the  garden)  made 
building  the  bed  like  playing  with  giant 
20  blocks.  The  four-foot-tall  stump  formed  the 
keystone  of  the  Composter,  with  the  other 
logs  keying  into  the  stump  to  form  a rigid 
container.  It  was  a way  of  getting  rid  of  both 
the  pile  of  bags  and  the  pile  of  logs. 

Little  had  I considered  that  people  would 
put  more  than  just  leaves  into  their  bags, 
that  is,  until  I started  dumping  the  bags  out 
into  the  Composter.  To  them,  the  leaves 
were  trash,  and  any  other  trash  went  right 
along  in  there,  from  the  omnipresent  invin- 
cible plastic  food  wrappers  to  the  adver- 
tisement circulars  that  never  got  picked  up 
from  where  they  landed  on  the  front  lawn. 
The  stuff  that  set  my  hair  on  end,  though, 
were  the  broken  bottles  and  shards  of 
window  glass,  that  would  surface  from  an 
innocent  pile  of  leaves  without  warning  like 
sharks  in  the  surf.  There  were  a few  hypo- 
dermic needles  and  glassine  bags  in  the 
mix  too,  reminders  that  the  world  was  not 
all  fruits  and  vegetables. 

I piled  up  the  leaves  to  overflowing  in 


the  Composter,  cleaned  out  the  trash,  and 
stirred  in  some  kitchen  scraps  to  fan  the 
fire.  (I  did  not  include  meats  because  they 
draw  rodents.)  For  an  entire  month  I prod- 
ded the  heap,  waiting  to  see  the  faint  curl  of 
steam  that  meant  the  compost  was  cook- 
ing — so  brimming  with  biological  activity 
that  the  temperature  jumps  above  100°  — 
but  no  such  sign  was  forthcoming.  Then  I 
read  in  a garden  catalog  where  a tool 
designed  to  punch  holes  in  a compost  pile 
was  supposed  to  promote  heating,  so  I 


The  composter 

seen  from  above  stump 


The  stuff  that  set  my  hair  on  end, 
though,  were  the  broken  bottles  and 
shards  of  window  glass,  that  would 
surface  from  an  innocent  pile  of 
leaves  without  warning  like  sharks 
in  the  surf.  There  were  a few  hypo- 
dermic needles  and  glassine  bags  in 
the  mix  too,  reminders  that  the  world 
was  not  all  fruits  and  vegetables. 


took  my  crowbar  and  rammed  100  holes 
through  the  pile.  That  didn’t  help  so  I de- 
cided I had  better  find  out  what  I was  doing 
wrong.  I consulted  my  botanic  library. 

Failure  to  heat  up  is  the  most  common 
composting  flaw  — meaning  that  my  titanic 
heap  was  simply  a larger  version  of  that 
neglected  pile  of  leaves  I mentioned  be- 
fore. At  the  rate  it  was  sputtering  along,  my 
batch  would  not  be  ready  in  time  for  the 
crucial  fall  mulching,  and  maybe  not  even 
until  the  following  fall.  Bacteria  in  the  pile 
were  having  a bad  go  at  it,  so  I had  to 
provide  them  decent  living  conditions, 
namely  food  and  water.  The  food  I gave 
them  was  in  the  form  of  sodium  nitrate,  two 
pounds  dissolved  in  a bucket  of  hot,  soapy 
water.  After  I wet  the  pile  thoroughly  I care- 


fully dribbled  the  solution  evenly  over  the 
pile.  (Note:  sodium  nitrate  is  a poisonous 
chemical  and  should  be  handled  like  all 
agricultural  chemicals,  carefully  and  with 
respect.  It  is  absorbed  by  the  microorgan- 
isms as  food  to  break  down  the  leaves.) 

The  change  was  apparent  within  a week. 
The  leaves  had  darkened  and  begun  to 
cook  down;  when  I turned  the  pile’s  upper 
layer  with  a hoe,  wisps  of  steam  ghosted 
upwards.  Finally,  with  enough  nitrogen  to 
balance  the  carbon  in  the  leaves,  the  bac- 
teria worked  feverishly  to  break  down  the 
pile  of  leaves  into  soil,  a process  that  would 
have  taken  a year  or  two  without  interven- 
tion. Any  source  of  nitrogen  would  have 
worked:  ammonia  solution,  ammonium 
phosphate,  potassium  nitrate,  even  horse 
manure. 

By  summer  the  pile  had  sunk  below  the 
walls  of  the  Composter  and  had  cooled 
enough  to  be  planted.  As  the  Victory  Gar- 
den suggested,  I planted  my  compost  heap, 
though  not  with  zucchini  like  they  did.  I 
planted  my  favorite  indestructible  cucurbit, 
the  luffa  gourd,  whose  firm,  immature  fruit 
taste  better  than  zucchini  when  cooked  in 
tomato  sauce.  The  luffa  acted  as  if  I had 
planted  it  on  top  of  a uranium  mine,  send- 
ing out  strong  vines  that  yellowed  them- 
selves every  morning  from  midsummer  on 
with  two-inch-wide  flowers.  Not  counting 
the  fruit  that  I missed  that  became  overripe, 
the  five  vines  produced  eighteen  pounds 
of  savory  fruit. 

Thanks  to  the  nutrients  and  the  frequent 
waterings,  the  Composter  was  ready  to  be 
emptied  as  soon  as  the  first  frosts  had  laid 
low  the  luffa  vines.  I pulled  apart  the  logs, 
hoed  down  the  pile  to  fine  black  fluff,  and 
wheeled  wheelbarrow-load  after  wheelbar- 
row-load into  the  garden  to  be  dumped 
onto  the  four  main  beds.  Each  of  the  four 
beds  got  three  loads  and  a smaller  bed  off 
to  one  side  got  two  loads,  for  a total  of  sixty- 
two  cubic  feet  of  compost,  enough  for  a 
one-inch  layer  of  nourishment. 

This  year,  I’ve  carried  out  my  compost 
program  a little  differently.  First,  I got  most 
of  my  compost  from  a collection  site  four 
blocks  away  where  the  Streets  Department 
had  stacked  up  a vast  pile  of  the  stuff, 
already  steaming  and  mostly  decomposed. 
I stuffed  the  van  with  the  compost  and 
made  five  short  trips  to  get  two  cubic  yards. 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


illustration  by  Michael  Herquet 


This  both  greatly  increased  the  amount  of 
compost  I am  able  to  generate  and  en- 
abled me  to  make  a great  deal  of  compost 
with  little  effort. 

That  meant  I would  be  able  to  collect 
more  raw  material  than  the  old  Composter 
would  be  able  to  handle,  so  I set  up  small 
compost  silos  made  from  cylinders  of  wire 
fencing  three  feet  tall  and  about  that  wide 
in  diameter.  These  I filled  first,  with  the 
Streets  Department  compost,  since  that 
would  be  done  sooner  and  out  of  the  way 
before  the  leaves  would  finish  up. 

I limited  leaf  collecting  because  I was 
already  ahead  of  the  schedule  I had  fol- 
lowed last  year.  I made  only  the  easiest 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


and  most  obvious  pickups  and,  in  contrast 
to  last  year,  I got  many  bags  from  my 
neighbors,  one  of  whom  even  carried  a 
bag  across  the  street  for  me,  although  he 
has  a bad  knee. 

This  year  I filled  the  Composter  up  and 
fertilized  it  in  the  winter,  so  it  would  have  a 
head  start  on  breaking  down  the  pile  of 
leaves  I stuffed  into  it.  Though  I did  cut 
back  on  my  collecting  efforts,  amazingly  I 
ended  up  with  more  bags  of  leaves  than 
last  year.  If  I could  only  apply  that  principle 
to  money  I’d  have  it  made. 

What  I look  forward  to  is  seeing  the  soil 
under  the  midsummer  sun,  not  pasty  and 
shallow-complected  but  black  and  deep- 


toned,  simmering  beneath  the  rising  tall- 
ness of  the  tomato  plants.  Yes,  this  year  it 
will  be  tomatoes  and  spices. 

Luffa  Seeds 

If  any  readers  would  like  luffa  seeds,  please 
send  me  a SASE  and  I’ll  be  happy  to  pass 
some  along:  James  Wiegand,  6041  N.  Park 
Ave.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19141. 

• 

James  Wiegand  is  a writer  who  supports  him- 
self doing  sales  work  for  an  electrical  supply 
house  When  not  at  work,  he  gardens  indoors 
and  out.  Wiegand  took  second  place  in  the  City 
Garden  Contest  in  Mid-sized  Vegetable  Gar- 
dens in  1987  and  1986. 


FROM  FORAGE  TO  FEAST: 

The  Delights  of  the  Edible  Landscape 


(^)  by  Catherine  J.  Knes-Maxwell 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


J.IAXINtCLI. 


photo  by  Paul  Meyer 


: 


] 


1 


You  can  smell  the  hickory  nut  muffins 
cooking.  The  sauteed  daylily  buds  gleam 
green,  nestled  amidst  succulent  purslane 
stems.  Spicebush  tea,  tart  and  spicy,  is 
steaming.  It’s  obviously  a gourmet  lunch- 
eon, but  these  exotic  vegetables  didn’t 
come  from  the  specialty  grocer. 

Foragers  Judy  McKeon  and  Gina  Hart 
have  hosted  another  feast  at  the  Morris 
Arboretum  of  the  University  of  Pennsylva- 
nia, where  they  co-teach  a class  on  their  art 
of  creative  food  gathering.  They  reveal  a 
bounty  of  culinary  delights,  found  creeping 
in  the  lawn,  nestling  in  the  woodland,  and 
masquerading  as  mere  ornamentals  in  the 
perennial  border.  A well-matched  team, 
both  Judy  and  Gina  bring  something  spe- 
cial to  the  partnership. 

Gina,  a retired  maternal  health  care 
educator  who  returned  to  her  first  love, 
horticulture,  has  rich  experience  with  her- 
baceous plants.  She  began  foraging  as  a 
child  in  the  Maryland  countryside. 

“I  have  no  idea  how  young  I started," 
she  recollects.  “I  simply  followed  where  my 
father  led.  He  had  foraged  since  he  was 
young  in  the  Apennines  of  Central  Italy. 
Foraging  is  a part  of  my  life  — a part  of  my 
attachment  to  my  father.  It's  also  basic  to 
me,  to  take  something  to  no  apparent  value 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


and  make  something  of  value.” 

Judy  McKeon,  rosarian  at  the  Morris 
Arboretum,  grew  up  gathering  the  honey- 
suckle nectar  and  loganberries  of  Mt.  Airy, 
in  her  native  Philadelphia.  Years  later,  while 
researching  and  designing  a self-guided, 
edible  plant  walk  at  Bartram’s  Garden,  she 
began  to  forage  in  earnest.  Judy's  special- 
ties are  woody  trees  and  shrubs,  particu- 


“When  I forage,  I’m  reminded  fre- 
quently of  the  American  Indian.  It 
gives  me  an  alternate  time  experi- 
ence — an  awareness  of  the  way  it 
might  have  been  when  Fairmount 
Park  and  the  Wissahickon  were  the 
sacred  places  of  the  Leni  Lenape.  ” 


larly  those  reflecting  the  lifestyles  of  the 
native  Americans  and  early  settlers  and  the 
recipes  they  shared. 

“When  I forage,  I’m  reminded  frequently 
of  the  American  Indian.  It  gives  me  an 
alternate  time  experience  — an  awareness 
of  the  way  it  might  have  been  when  Fair- 
mount  Park  and  the  Wissahickon  were  the 
sacred  places  of  the  Leni  Lenape.” 

Both  Judy  and  Gina  take  pleasure  in  the 
intimacy  with  the  seasons  that  foraging 


ecessitates.  These  “crops”  are  not  set  out 
by  a gardener’s  calendar  in  predictable 
rows,  but  awaited  patiently  as  the  seasons 
change,  and  searched  out  diligently  in  their 
favored  habitats. 

As  autumn  creeps  in,  toward  late  Sep- 
tember, the  fruit  of  the  pawpaw  ( Asimina 
triloba ),  the  only  nontropical  member  of  the 
custard  family,  begins  to  soften  into 
ripeness,  ready  to  eat  on  the  spot  or  to  be 
used  in  pies,  cakes  or  beer-making. 

The  diligent  forager,  having  saved  the 
pawpaws  from  the  possums,  must  next 
compete  with  the  birds  for  the  ripe  red 
berries  of  the  cornelian  cherry,  and  squir- 
rels for  the  nuts  of  the  shagbark  hickory. 
The  hickory  was  known  as  “Powcohicora” 
to  the  native  Americans,  who  made  a mild 
milk  substance  from  the  nuts.  Nuts  are  ripe 
when  the  husks  split  open. 

Though  much  of  successful  foraging 
depends  on  careful  timing,  the  weekend 
forager  may  gather  some  items  at  leisure, 
even  during  the  winter  months.  Woody  twigs 
for  tea,  such  as  those  of  spicebush,  sweet 
shrub  (Calycanthus  floridus),  or  black  birch, 
can  be  collected  any  season.  Watercress 
found  near  streams,  can  be  harvested  for 
soups  and  salads  1 1 months  of  the  year. 

Early  spring  is  a busy  time.  Fresh  greens 

continued 


M Rosa  rugosa  hip:  high  in  vitamin  C and 
delicious  in  teas  and  jellies. 


Gina  Hart  foraging  for  cattail  shoots,  an 
ephemeral  spring  treat.  ▼ 


photo  by  Paul  Meyer 


Yucca  petals,  soft  summer  beauties,  en 
hance  salads,  drinks,  and  omelets. 

and  tender  shoots  often  come  and  quickly 


go. 

“You  have  about  a week  in  April  in  which 
to  harvest  young  cattail  shoots,”  which, 
Gina  reports,  are  good  steamed  like  as- 
paragus. “They  are  best  between  the  time 
they  sprout  and  the  time  they  break  above 
water." 

Fiddleheads  from  the  ostrich  fern  ( Mat - 
teuccia  pensylvanica),  found  in  late  April  to 
early  May,  are  delicious  in  a stir  fry  or 
vinaigrette.  Timing,  again,  is  key:  a fiddle- 
head  becomes  an  unappetizing  fern  within 
a few  days. 

Foragers  must  also  rethink  their  con- 
cept of  the  season  of  interest  for  many 
plants.  Daylily  flowers  ( Hemerocallis  sp.) 
hold  forth  in  midsummer,  but  the  young  leaf 
shoots,  a delicious  salad  green,  emerge  in 
early  spring. 

Summer  is  heralded  by  the  blooming  of 
roses  and  yuccas,  whose  petals  contribute 
to  fairylike  salads,  jellies,  cold  soups  and 
omelets.  Judy  recommends  the  petals  of 
rugosa  roses  such  as  ‘Agnes,’  or  those  of 
shrub  roses  such  as  'Bomca'  for  cooking, 
since  they  repeat  bloom  and  need  not  be 
sprayed.  (See  caution.*) 

Juneberry,  also  a member  of  the  rose 
family,  is  Judy’s  favorite.  The  first  of  the 
summer  berries  to  mature  (in  June,  of 
course)  they  can  be  used  in  pies,  jellies,  or 
fresh.  Native  Americans  dried  them  for 
winter  food. 

More  ephemeral  summer  treats  are  the 
pods  of  milkweed  ( Asclepias  syriaca),  good 
parboiled  and  served  with  a dressing.  They 
must  be  harvested  in  late  summer  or  early 
fall,  Gina  relates,  before  the  pods  burst. 

Foragers  may  also  extend  the  season  of 
some  plants.  According  to  Gina,  poke- 
weed  shoots  can  be  collected  throughout 
the  summer,  if  you  faithfully  harvest  the  six 
inch  shoots  for  soups  and  salads.  This 


promotes  the  sprouting  of  new  shoots. 

Whether  it  be  through  a cattail  shoot 
savored  once  in  early  spring,  an  often  vis- 
ited lawn  of  dandelions,  or  rose  petals 
harvested  all  summer,  foraging  opens  a 
broad  sensual  realm,  a new  way  to  relate  to 
food,  to  gardens,  and  to  nature.  For  the 
forager,  autumn  is  an  invitation  to  explore, 
to  discover,  to  celebrate  the  cycle  of  life  in 
events  subtler,  yet  no  less  sublime,  than 
the  appearance  of  the  first  fiery  tints  of  fall 
leaves.  Savoring  the  first  succulent  pawpaw 
on  a cool  September  day  is  a powerful  rite 
of  passage  into  autumn,  harking  back  to 
the  rhythms  of  our  pre-agricultural  ances- 
tors. 

“The  experience  of  finding  and  picking 
the  fruit  (or  other  plant  part),  noting  the 
color  of  the  skin,  feeling  the  texture  of  the 
bloom  and  finally  tasting  the  fresh  or  pre- 
pared wild  food  is  a unique  experience,” 
says  Judy,  “that  we  can't  even  compare 
with  that  of  cultivated  foods.” 

Modern  day  hunters  and  gatherers  share 
this  unique  experience  through  the  delec- 
table seasons:  from  forage  to  feast. 

Gina’s  Hickory-nut  Date  Muffins 

2 cups  sifted  flour 
1/4  cup  sugar 

3 tsp.  baking  powder 
1 tsp.  salt 

1/2  cup  chopped  dates 
3/4  cup  hickory  nuts,  chopped 
1 cup  milk 

1/4  cup  oil  or  melted  margarine 

1 egg 

1.  Oven  400°.  Bake  20-25  minutes. 

2.  Sift  flour  with  sugar,  baking  powder, 
and  salt.  Add  dates  and  nuts. 

3.  Add  oil  and  eggs  to  milk.  Whisk  until 
mixed. 

4.  Make  a well  in  flour  mix,  and  pour  wet 
ingredients  into  dry  ingredients.  Stir 
quickly  with  fork  until  just  moistened.  Do 
not  beat.  Batter  will  be  lumpy. 

5.  Spoon  into  12  greased  muffin  cups. 
Bake  until  golden. 

6.  Empty  pans  when  out  of  oven  and  cool 
muffins  on  rack. 

Gina’s  Sauteed  Daylily  Buds  and 
Purslane  with  Vinaigrette 

2 cups  daylily  buds 
2 cups  purslane 

2 cups  pokeweed  stems  (optional) 

1 Tbs.  olive  oil 
1 clove  garlic,  minced 
1 small  onion,  minced 


1 . Remove  stem  end  of  daylily  buds,  wash. 
Clean  and  wash  purslane  and  poke. 
Parboil  in  shallow  pot  10  minutes,  until 
tender. 

2.  Sautee  garlic  and  onion  in  oil,  until  onion 
is  clear.  Add  vegetables,  turn  and  coat 
each  piece  well.  Cook  five  more  min- 
utes. Remove  to  serving  dish. 

3.  Make  vinaigrette.  Pour  over  vegetables. 
Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Vinaigrette  Dressing 

6 Tbs.  olive  oil 

2 Tbs.  wine  or  balsamic  vinegar 
1/2  tsp.  salt  to  taste 

several  twists  fresh  ground  black  pepper 

Whisk  or  shake  ingredients  until  well 
blended.  Makes  1/2  cup.  Proportions  may 
be  adjusted,  or  additional  seasonings 
added  to  taste. 

Judy’s  Ginger-Hickory  Spread 

1/4  cup  chopped  ginger 
1/4  cup  chopped  hickory  nuts 
2 Tbs.  minced  orange  pulp 
1 Tbs.  maple  syrup 
1 tsp.  vinegar 

Mix  all  ingredients.  Use  as  spread  or  filling. 

Judy’s  Spicebush  Tea 

1 cup  fresh  spicebush  twigs,  bark,  or  leaves 

1 quart  boiling  water 

4 tsp.  dried,  crushed  rosehips  (optional) 

Simmer  or  steep  15  minutes.  Add  honey, 
maple  syrup,  lemon  to  taste. 

This  aromatic  tea  was  widely  known  as  a 
restorative  among  the  American  settlers. 

Gina’s  Watercress  Soup 

2 oz.  butter 

1 cup  chopped  onion 

1 cup  chopped  potato 

5 cups  chopped  watercress 

2 1/2  cups  chicken  stock 

2 1/2  cups  creamy  milk  (can  substitute 
evaporated  skim  milk) 


'CAUTION:  Please  forage  carefully  to  avoid 
the  toxins  of  both  man  and  nature. 

Know  your  foraging  area  Avoid  areas 
that  may  have  been  treated  with  herbicides 
or  pesticides,  or  contaminated  by  runoff  from 
streets,  industrial  areas,  or  other  users  of 
chemicals. 

Use  a good  plant  identification  book  A 
plant  that  looks  similar  to  a food  plant  could 
be  quite  toxic. 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


Foraging  on  Your  Own 


Common  Name  Scientific  Name 

Season 

Habitat 

Plant  Part  and  Culinary  Use 

Black  birch 

Betula  lenta 

year-round 

damp  forests 

twigs  for  tea 

Cattails 

Typha  latifolia 

early  spring 
summer 

ponds  and  marshes 

young  shoots  as  cooked  vegetable 
pollen  as  flour 

Chickweed 

Stellaria  media 

spring  and  fall 

gardens,  lawns, 
other  moist  places 

stems  and  leaves  as  salad  greens 

Crabapples 

Malus  spp. 

early  fall 

old  fields,  in 
cultivation 

fruit  for  jellies,  cobblers,  etc. 

Dandelions 

Taraxacum  officinale 

spring, 
summer,  fall 

lawns,  fields, 
roadsides 

leaves  as  soup,  cooked  vegetable, 
salad  green;  flowers  for  wine 

Daylily 

Hemerocallis  spp. 

early  spring 
summer 

in  cultivation 

new  shoots  as  salad  green 
flower  buds  for  stir  fry,  salads 

Dogwood 

Cornus  mas  or  Cornus  officinalis  early  fall 

forest  understory, 
in  cultivation 

fruit  for  jellies,  jams 

Juneberry 

Amelanchier  canadensis 

summer 

forest  understory, 
in  cultivation 

berries  fresh,  in  pies  or  jellies 

Hickory 

Carya  ovata 

mid-autumn 

forests, 
in  cultivation 

nuts  fresh,  for  baking,  candy,  flour 

Milkweed 

Asclepias  syriaca 

late  summer 

open  fields, 
roadsides 

unopened  pod  as  cooked  vegetable 

Ostrich  fern 

Matteuccia  pensylvanica 

early  spring 

rich,  moist  soil 
in  swamps,  forests, 
on  streamsides 

fiddleheads  as  cooked  vegetable 
or  in  salads 

Roses 

Rosa  spp. 

spring, 

summer, 

fall 

in  cultivation, 
in  open  fields 

petals  in  salads,  omelets  or 
drinks,  or  for  wine  or  candies 
hips  for  jellies,  teas 

Pawpaws 

Asimina  triloba 

early  fall 

forest  understory, 
in  cultivation 

fruit  for  puddings,  pies,  custards, 
snacks 

Pokeweed 

Phytolacca  americana 

spring, 
summer,  fall 

fields,  gardens, 
roadside 

young  shoots  as  cooked  vegetable 

Purslane 

Portulaca  oleracea 

mid-spring, 

summer 

fields,  roadsides, 
in  cultivation 

stems  and  leaves  as  cooked  or  salad 
green 

Spicebush 

Lindera  benzoin 

year-round 

damp  forests, 
streamsides, 
in  cultivation 

twigs  and  leaves  for  tea 

Watercress 

Nasturtium  officinale 

year-round 

streamsides 

leaves  and  stems  for  soups,  as  salad 
or  cooked  green 

Yucca 

Yucca  filamentosa 

summer 

in  cultivation 

petals  for  candies  or  garnishes, 
in  salads,  omelets,  or  drinks 

1.  Melt  butter  and  add  onions  and  pota- 
toes, turn  until  well  coated.  Cover  and 
sweat  on  gentle  heat  for  10  minutes. 

2.  Add  watercress  and  cool  until  soft. 

3.  Puree  vegetables  in  blender  or  proces- 
sor. 

4.  Add  chicken  broth  after  pureeing  if  us- 
ing processor.  Add  to  vegetables  if  us- 
ing blender. 

5.  Add  milk  and  heat.  Don’t  boil. 

Judy’s  Birch  Tea 

Cut  some  narrow  sweet  birch  twigs  into  1 

inch  pieces.  Use  6-8  pieces  per  cup  boil- 
ing water.  Steep  several  minutes.  Add 


honey,  milk  to  taste. 

Suggested  Books  for  Foragers 

* Edible  Wild  Plants,  Oliver  Perry  Medsger,  The 
MacMillan  Company,  New  York,  1945 

'Edible  Wild  Plants  of  Eastern  North  America, 
Merritt  Lyndon  Fernald,  Harper  & Brothers,  New 
York,  1958. 

'A  Field  Guide  to  Edible  Wild  Plants  of  Eastern 
and  Central  North  America,  Lee  Peterson, 
Houghton  Mifflin  Co.,  Boston,  1978. 

'Field  Guide  to  Wild  Herbs,  Ed.,  Rodale  Press 
Inc.,  Emmaus,  PA,  1987. 

Ornamentals  for  Eating,  Mark  Podems  and 
Brenda  Bortz,  Rodale  Press,  Emmaus,  PA,  1975. 


* Stalking  the  Wild  Asparagus.  Field  Guide  Edi- 
tion, Euell  Gibbons,  McKay,  New  York,  1962 

The  Wild  Gourmet  A Forager's  Cookbook, 
Babette  Brackett  and  Maryann  Ash,  David 
Godine  Publishers,  Boston,  1974 

*An  edition  available  in  PHS  Library 

• 

Catherine  J Knes-Maxwell  completed  a year's 
term  as  education  intern  at  the  Morris  Arbore- 
tum of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania  in  June 
1988  She  is  a born  and  bred  blackberry  picker 
of  the  pastures  of  North  Carolina,  and  a gradu- 
ate from  UNC-Chapel  Hill  and  N C State  Uni- 
versity 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


25 


The  Christmas  rose  ( Helleborus  niger). 


Anemone  nemerosa  'Alba' 


In  early  fall  gardeners  are  often  swept 
away  by  what  I call  “Dutch  Fever.”  With  a 
supply  of  catalogs  and  their  tempting  pic- 
tures we  often  dream  of  a spring  parade  of 
tulips  and  daffodils  (at  bargain  prices).  But 
there  are  available  equally  “frost  proof" 
spring  plants  — those  that  have  their  own 
“time  schedules,”  which  seem  never  to  go 
awry  no  matter  what  the  weather  or  their 
zonal  locations;  they  are  as  predictable  as 
relatives  (although,  perhaps,  more  wel- 
come) in  the  very  early  days  of  spring.  For 
a change  why  not  consider  white  blooms 
— for  early,  mid-season  and  late? 

True:  the  fickle  weather  of  March  and 
April  will  often  confuse  both  plants  and  gar- 
deners. Who  can  really  predict  when  winter 
ends  and  spring  begins?  Sudden  high 
temperatures  encourage  sap  to  flow,  buds 
to  swell,  and  then  — does  it  ever  fail?  — 
an  overnight  freeze  browns  forsythia  and 
quince  or  scorches  the  tiny  wine-colored 
leaves  of  the  Katsura  tree.  But  if  we  focus 
our  attention  closer  to  ground  level,  where 
winter  mulch  and  stray  patches  of  snow 
cover  the  tiny  bulbs  — such  as  anemones, 
snowdrops,  and  crocus  — bright  clumps 
soon  emerge  under  deciduous  trees  and 
shrubs.  Gray  winter  days  glow  with  the 
abrupt,  unexpected  appearance  of  white 
spring  flowers;  the  cool  temperatures  and 
bright  sun  combine  to  reveal  dazzling  mini- 
ature pictures  that  not  only  charm  the  cas- 
ual onlooker  but  lead  the  gardener  to  poke 
and  probe  about  in  anticipation  as  the  new 
year  arrives. 

the  first  bulb 

One  of  the  first  little  bulbs  to  show  itself 
in  spring,  the  snowdrop  (Galanthus  nivalis), 
produces  white,  drooping  bells  fringed  with 
green  markings.  Easily  naturalized  it  will 
grow  in  drifts  in  the  woods,  under  shrub- 
bery, or  anywhere  in  the  open  shade,  where, 
after  flowering  for  several  weeks  in  Febru- 
ary, it  vanishes  until  the  next  year.  Late 
snow  falls  never  damage  its  performance. 

Helleborus  {H.  niger),  the  Christmas 
rose,  a semi-evergreen  perennial,  produces 
creamy,  off-white  cupped  flowers  with  bold. 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


“White  flowers,”  Harris  once  wrote,  perhaps 
having  heard  the  same  thing  from  Vita 
Sackville-West,  “are  anathema  to  all  but  the 
oldest  and  most  sophisticated  gardeners." 

— from  New  York  Magazine, 
June,  1988,  p 42-43  “Bloom 
Town:  High  Wasp  Chic  at  White 
Flower  Farm"  by  Nelson  W. 
Aldrich 

— quoting  William  B Harris,  a 
former  editor  at  Fortune  Maga- 
zine, who  with  Jane  Grant,  a 
former  New  York  Times  re- 
porter, founded  White  Flower 
Farm. 


golden  stamens.  It  prefers  a cool,  rich 
woodland  soil,  the  same  suitable  fro  rhodo- 
dendrons. The  foliage,  a handsome  leath- 
ery dark-green,  gradually  dies  as  the  flow- 
ers appear.  They  will  increase  slowly  and 
prefer  the  same  spot  for  years  although  the 
plants  can  be  divided  and  moved  after 
blooming.  A superb  spring  plant  that  no 
shade  garden  should  be  without,  its  blos- 
soms will  last  well  over  a month  before 
turning  green  and  producing  seed  pods 
among  the  new  leaves.  Break  the  pods 
open  and  scatter  the  contents  about  the 
base  of  the  mother  plant  for  new  offspring 
the  following  year. 

The  Windflower  (Anemone  sylvestris)  — 
in  its  white  form  with  glossy,  yellow  sta- 
mens, seems  never  to  cease  blooming. 
Any  soil  is  suitable  — sun  or  shade  — and 
its  roots  spread  rapidly.  Every  spring  new 
plants  appear  in  unexpected  places.  Some 
gardeners  consider  it  invasive  but  the 
“univited”  can  easily  be  “weeded  out”  to 
make  room  for  later  summer  flowers.  My 
own  supply  seems  to  begin  flowering  in 
late  April  and  continues,  non-stop,  until  the 
June  roses  finish  their  display.  A rarer  form, 
Anemone  nemorosa  ‘Alba,’  is  quite  small, 
growing  to  6 inches,  with  star-shaped  outer 
petals  and  a dense  button  center.  It  natu- 
ralizes under  trees  and  shrubs;  a distinct 
advantage  is  its  complete  disappearance 
after  blooming.  This  is  true  of  most  early 
spring  flowers  grown  from  rhizomes  and 
bulbs  with  the  exception  of  the  ubiquitous 
daffodil  (handsome  though  it  is)  which  must 

continued 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


The  white  form  of  Japanese  wisteria  (Wisteria  floribunda  'Alba'). 


photos  by  Tim  Morehouse 


White  Czar,'  a pure  white  violet  (Viola  odorata). 


“ripen"  its  foliage  for  flower  production  the 
following  year. 

The  bleeding-heart  can  now  be  culti- 
vated in  a white  form  (Dicentra  spectabalis 
‘Alba’)  and,  although  not  as  robust  as  its 
pink  cousin,  the  glaucous-green  foliage 
and  white  blooms  (identical  in  shape  to  the 
pink)  are  lovely  in  the  shady  border  among 
clumps  of  ferns  and  hostas. 

The  white  form  of  the  Japanese  wisteria 
(Wisteria  floribunda  ‘Alba’)  is  ideal  for  a 
sturdy  arbor  or  trellis.  It  is  not  as  rampant  as 
the  Chinese  variety,  so  may  be  perfect  for 
a smaller  garden.  Late  frosts  spoil  buds  but 
the  long  racemes  are  striking  over  a patio 
— especially  when  the  sunlight  illuminates 
the  chains  of  pea-shaped  flowers  on  a cool 
day.  Always  purchase  grafted  plants;  those 
raised  from  seed  may  take  years  to  bloom, 
if  they  ever  do.  By  hard  pruning  in  late  fall 


and  a generous  feeding  with  super- 
phosphate, young  plants  quickly  establish 
themselves.  Avoid  any  fertilizer  high  in  ni- 
trogen: this  only  results  in  heavy  vegetative 
growth  and  no  blooms. 

Peony,  (Paeonia  'Gold  Standard’),  opens 
with  a display  of  pure  white,  papery  petals 
surrounding  a thick  crown  of  golden  sta- 
mens. Not  a heavy  bloomer,  but  sturdy,  it 
tends  to  stay  upright  during  sudden  spring 
rains  and  not  flop  like  the  older  varieties.  At 
last  a cultivar  where  it's  unnecessary  to  lift 
a head  to  admire  the  face.  When  planting 
peony  rhizomes  in  the  fall,  arrange  the 
fleshy  roots  with  red  buds  just  one  inch 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil:  deep  planting 
discourages  subsequent  blooms. 

The  trillium  ( Trillium  grandiflorum)  com- 
monly called  trinity  flower  or  wake  robin,  is 
a long-lasting  plant,  very  hardy,  and  worthy 
of  a corner  in  all  gardens  where  there  is 
shade.  Grow  it  with  ferns  and  bleeding 
heart.  Here  Nature’s  white  can  not  be  im- 
proved upon:  its  simple  radiance  is  unsur- 
passed by  other  spring  flowers. 

rare  and  others 

A rare  white,  Sanguinaria  canadensis 
‘Flore  Pleno'  (sometimes  listed  as  'Multi- 
plex’), the  double  bloodroot  is  a perfect 
neighbor  for  other  diminutive  spring  flow- 
ers along  woodland  paths.  The  blooms,  so 
very  Victorian,  are  rounded  and  cup- 
shaped appearing  above  large,  flat,  gray- 
green  leaves.  Plant  nearby  Viola  odorata 
‘White  Czar’,  a large-flowering,  long- 
stemmed pure  white  violet. 

Blooming  later  than  the  “snow-proof” 
bulbs  but  nonetheless  spectacular,  is  the 
white  form  of  the  foxglove  ( Digitalis  pur- 
purea ‘Alba’)  a biennial  that  tends  to  show 
“perennial"  characteristics  if  allowed  to  self- 
sow. Plant  only  the  white  form  or  the  bees 
(through  pollination)  create  their  own  col- 
ors. They  rise  above  the  ferns  and  hele- 
bores  — like  sentinels  — as  spring  extends 
into  summer.  Do  not  cover  the  crowns  in 
winter  with  mulch  or  leaves;  they  may  rot. 

White  flowers  enhance  all  garden 
schemes;  in  fact,  they  accentuate  and  in- 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


/ 


, 


A rare  white  double  bloodroot  (Sanguinaria 
Canadensis  'Flore  Pleno'). 


tensify  the  elegance  of  other  colors.  Mag- 
nolias, dogwoods,  viburnums,  many  or- 
chard trees,  provide  a lavish  froth  of  white 
in  late  spring.  A common  mountain  rhodo- 
dendron ( Rhododendron  maximum  album) 
blooms  in  June  after  its  more  sophisticated 
relatives  have  finished.  Its  dome-shaped 
blossoms  last  for  several  weeks  in  cool 
weather  and  the  evergreen  leaves  are 
handsome  year  round.  Well-drained,  moist 
soil  with  an  annual  top-dressing  of  oak 
leaves  and  a sprinkling  of  cotton-seed  meal 
for  acid  conditioning  will  nourish  it  for  years. 

Gray,  fickle  spring  days,  just  as  winter 
begins  to  wane,  offer  endless  surprises  for 
the  gardener.  Perhaps  the  executive  with 
briefcase  in  hand  — the  fair-weather, 
weekend  gardener  — slows  down  to  catch 
the  white  blooms  of  spring  in  transit  from 
home  to  office.  And  this  awareness,  how- 
ever fleeting,  becomes  a spiritual  delight,  a 
moment  to  reflect  on  before  the  daily 
domestic  routine  begins.  Even  the  familiar 
jogger  passing  the  front  lawn  might  notice 
these  early  spring  signs.  Russell  Page,  in 
his  classic  book,  The  Education  of  a Gar- 
dener, writes:  “Remember  that  one  of  your 
aims  must  be  to  lift  people,  if  only  for  a 
moment,  above  their  daily  preoccupatons. 

. . a glimpse  of  beauty  outside  will  enable 
them  to  make  a healing  contact  with  their 
own  inner  world,”  Life  begins  once  again  in 
all  its  purity. 

• 

Tim  Morehouse  is  a retired  teacher  whose  pas- 
sion for  gardening  has  persisted  over  30  years. 
He  gardens  in  southern  Ohio  and  traveled  to  the 
1988  Philadelphia  Flower  Show  for  a late  winter 
gardening  pick-me-up  His  articles  have  ap- 
peared in  Garden  Design,  Garden,  Your  Home, 
Victorian  Homes,  American  Horticulturist  and 
others. 


Sources,  planting  zones,  blooming  times  (approximate)  for  plants  mentioned  in  article: 


Snow  Drop  ( Galanthus  nivalis)  Zones  3-8 
Fall  planting  Blooms  late  February-April 
White  Flower  Farm,  Route  63 
Litchfield,  CT  06759  (Fall  catalog:  $5.00) 

Wayside  Gardens 
George  W.  Park  Seed  Co.,  Box  1 
Hodges,  SC  29695-0001 
(Wayside  Catalog:  $1.00 
Park  Seed  Catalog:  free) 

Christmas  Rose  ( Helleborus  niger)  Zones  5- 
7.  Blooms  late  February-early  April  depend- 
ing on  weather.  Order  in  spring. 

White  Flower  Farm  (address  above) 

Wayside  Gardens  (address  above) 

Windflower  ( Anemone  sylvestris:  Anemone 
nemorosa  'Alba')  Zones  4-8.  Blooms  April  to 
July  in  Zones  5-6. 

Andre  Viette  Farm  & Nursery 
Route  1,  Box  16 

Fisherville,  VA  22939  (carries  the  rare  A.  ne- 
merosa  and  states  it  will  bloom  in  early  April) 
Catalog:  $2.00 

Vick's  Wildgardens 
Box  115 

Gladwyne,  PA  19055  Catalog:  $.25 

Bleeding  Heart  ( Dicentra  spectabilis  'Alba') 
Zones:  3-9.  Blooms  late  April  - early  May 

Gardens  of  the  Blue  Ridge 
Box  10 

Pineola,  NC  28662  Catalog:  $2.00 

White  Flower  Farm  (address  above) 

Andre  Viette  Farm  and  Nursery  (address 
above) 

Japanese  Wisteria  ( Wisteria  floribunda  'Alba') 
Zones  4-7.  Blooms  early  May. 

Wayside  Gardens  (address  above)  Container 
shipped  spring  and  fall. 


Peony 'Gold  Standard'  Zones  3-6  May  bloom 

White  Flower  Farm  (address  above)  Fall  ship- 
ment only. 

Double  Blood-Root  (Sanguinaria  canadensis 
'Flore  Pleno' or ‘Multiplex').  Zones  3-6  Blooms 
April-early  May. 

Fall  shipment  only.  White  Flower  Farm 

Wayside  Gardens 

Andre  Viette  Farm  & Nursery 

Viola  odorata  (‘White  Czar')  Zones  3-8  May 
blooms. 

Andre  Viette  Farm  and  Nursery 
Wayside  Gardens 

White  Foxglove  (Digitalis  purpurea  'Alba') 
Zones  4-7.  Blooms  May-June. 

Wayside  Gardens 

White  Flower  Farm  (offers  an  exceptionally 
fine  variety) 

Rhododendron  (Rhododendron  maximum  al- 
bum) Zones  3-8  Late  bloomer  in  southern 
Ohio:  June-early  July. 

We-Du  Nursery 
Route  5,  Box  724 
Marion,  NC  28752 
Catalog:  $.50 

The  Cummins  Garden 
22  Robertsville  Rd 
Marlboro,  NJ  07746 
Catalog:  $1  00 

Carroll  Gardens 
444  East  Main  Street 
Box  310 

Westminster,  MD  21157  (Catalog:  $2.00) 

Trillium  (Trillium  grandiflorum)  Zones  3-7 
Blooms  April-May 

Vick’s  Wildgardens  (address  above) 

Andre  Viette  Farm  & Nursery  (address  above) 
Wayside  Gardens  (address  above) 


29 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


A Colonial 
Garden 


Adra  Fairman 


There  is  a profound  difference  between 
restoring  an  historic  garden  and  recreat- 
ing one.  When  restoring,  old  plans  or  evi- 
dence in  the  ground,  such  as  old  walls  or 
old  foundations,  are  the  essential  factor. 
The  Paca  House  in  Annapolis,  Maryland,  is 
a fine  example  of  restoration:  there,  exca- 
vation of  a parking  lot  uncovered  walls, 
garden  bed  outlines  and  former  grade  lev- 
els. By  the  same  token,  Monticello, 
Jefferson's  home  outside  Charlottesville, 
Virginia,  has  been  the  scene  of  discoveries 
of  old  orchards,  fence  post  holes  and  other 
unmistakable  signs  of  the  exact  location  of 
many  parts  of  the  original  gardens. 

Historic  Rockingham,  George 
Washington’s  Headquarters  (August  to 
30  November,  1783),  had  no  such  records. 
Indeed,  the  house  has  been  in  three  differ- 
ent locations  near  Rocky  Hill,  New  Jersey, 
since  the  General  spent  three  months  there 
waiting  for  the  news  of  the  signing  of  the 
T reaty  of  Paris  to  end  the  American  Revolu- 
tion. The  Congress,  meeting  in  Nassau  Hall 
in  nearby  Princeton,  had  pushed  that  small 
town  to  the  limits  of  its  capacity  to  house 
thd  delegates.  When  the  General  and 
Martha  Washington  accepted  the  invita- 
tion to  come  to  Princeton,  a home  was 
found  for  them  by  renting  the  Widow 
Berrian’s  farmhouse  in  Rocky  Hill. 

Originally,  this  house  sat  on  a knoll  above 
the  Millstone  River  where  Route  51 8 crosses 
the  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal.  Needless 
to  say,  neither  the  Canal  nor  51 8 were  there 
in  1783.  Quarrying  near  the  site  in  1897 
forced  the  first  move  part  way  up  a nearby 
hill,  and  further  encroachment  in  1957  made 
the  Kingston  Trap  Rock  Company  agree  to 
move  it  to  the  top  of  the  same  hill  onto  State 


property.  When  this  final  move  was  made, 
the  State  installed  concrete  and  macadam 
walks,  a parking  area  and  paved  drive- 
ways and  placed  the  house  on  a rather 
unattractive  fake  stone  foundation. 

An  active  committee  was  already  at  work 
reconstituting  the  interior  of  the  house  and 
furnishing  it  with  authentic  pieces  of  the 
period.  The  Stony  Brook  Garden  Club  of 
Princeton,  of  which  I am  a member,  was 
persuaded  to  undertake  all  the  landscap- 
ing. The  State  cooperated  by  sending 
convicts  on  a work  release  program  to  rip 
up  the  macadam  and  concrete.  Research 
was  undertaken  to  decide  the  form  the 
gardens  should  take.  It  became  obvious 
that  our  first  effort  should  be  to  build  an 
18th  Century  parterre  garden  with  herbs  at 


Clove  pinks  were  used  to  perfume 
linens,  wine  and  vinegar,  and  hys- 
sop tea  with  honey  was  used  in  pul- 
monary “afflications  ” and  applied  to 
bruises.  It  was  also  used  as  a substi- 
tute for  real  tea  when  the  British 
began  to  levy  unfair  taxes  on  the 
imports.  No  one  ever  threw  hyssop 
tea  into  Boston  Harbor. 


the  kitchen  end  of  the  house.  Plans  were 
drawn  using  the  traditional  form  of  a center 
bed  surrounded  by  four  knot  gardens, 
pebble  paths  and  a wide  border  enclosed 
by  a picket  fence.  The  plant  list  was  me- 
ticulously researched  for  authenticity  for 
the  period  and  proved  not  difficult  to  ac- 
quire. Herbs  were  limited  to  those  that  had 
been  used  for  medicinal,  cosmetic  or  culi- 
nary purposes. 


Three  kinds  of  mint  (peppermint,  spear- 
mint and  apple  mint)  were  planted  under  a 
Dolgo  crabapple  in  the  corner  nearest  the 
house.  A bed  of  aconite,  sage,  lavender, 
artemesia  and  lily  of  the  valley  runs  along 
the  back  fence.  Against  the  stone  wall  of 
the  separate  kitchen  building  we  espal- 
iered  two  Beurre  D’Anjou  pears.  With  their 
exposure  to  early  morning  sunshine,  the 
walls  retain  the  day’s  heat  and  the  pears 
have  borne  heavily  for  over  20  years.  They 
are  beautiful  in  blossom,  but  even  more 
spectacular  to  our  visitors  when  laden  with 
golden,  ripening  fruit.  At  their  feet,  a bed  of 
Stachys  byzatina  or  woolly  lamb’s  ears 
make  a velvety,  green-blue  spread.  This 
plant  is  a favorite  of  the  school  children 
who  visit  the  garden.  They  love  to  pick  its 
soft  leaves,  rub  them  against  their  cheeks, 
and  pretend  that  they  really  have  a woolly 
lamb  to  fondle. 

The  center  bed  features  a sun  dial. 
Autumn  crocus  ( Colchicum  autumnale) 
bears  its  flowers  in  September.  The  yellow 
anthers  of  the  pale  lavender  blooms  are 
the  source  of  the  saffron  powder  of  com- 
merce. Pot  marigold  (Calendula  officinalis), 
we  explain  to  visitors,  was  used  “in  the  pot’’ 
for  flavor  and  color  in  stews  and  soups.  A 
germander  hedge  ( Teucrium  canadense ) 
shorn  to  about  18  inches  surrounds  this 
center  bed  and  gives  it  definition. 

On  the  east  fence,  wild  sweet  pea 
( Lathyrus  latifolius)  climbs  to  make  a sheet 
of  mauve  pink  against  which  purple  fox- 
glove (Digitalis purpurea)  contrast  dramati- 
cally. Yellow  tansy  in  the  end  of  this  bed 
next  to  the  entrance  gate  gives  good  color 
contrast.  Tansy  is  invasive,  and  although 
we  know  it  was  used  extensively  as  a bug 

the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  Frederick  van  Wetering 


repellant  in  Colonial  days,  there  are  times 
when  we  wish  we  had  never  planted  it.  It  is 
a constant  battle  to  keep  it  in  bounds. 
Costmary  (Chrysanthemum  balsamita), 
clove  pinks  ( Dianthus  caryophyllus)  and 
hyssop  (Hyssopus  officinalis)  fill  out  this 
end  of  the  garden.  Clove  pinks  were  used 
to  perfume  linens,  wine  and  vinegar,  and 
hyssop  tea  with  honey  was  used  in  pulmo- 
nary “afflications”  and  applied  to  bruises.  It 
was  also  used  as  a substitute  for  real  tea 
when  the  British  began  to  levy  unfair  taxes 
on  the  imports.  No  one  ever  threw  hyssop 
tea  into  Boston  Harbor. 

At  the  end  of  the  house,  a bed  of  bay- 
bery  ( Myrica  pensylvanica)  throws  the  waxy 
gray  berries  that  were  incorporated  into 

continued 


Costmary,  hyssop  and  valerian  (heliotrope)  are  backed  by  three  old  fashioned  roses 
outside  the  east  fence:  Rosa  centifolia  ‘muscosa'  (moss  rose);  Rosa  gallica  'Charles  de 
Mills’  and  Rosa  damascena  'Celsiana.' 


Espalier  of  Beurre  d'Anjou  pears  on  kitchen  building.  Lady’s-mantle,  with  chartreuse  blossoms  on  right,  wooly  lamb's  ears  and  marjoram  in  back- 
ground, and  yellow  bloom  of  tansy  near  sundial. 


31 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


32 


Closeup  of  bloom  on  common  comfrey  (Symphytum  officinale)  used  to  heal  wounds  in 
colonial  times. 


Lady's-mantle  leaf  showing  it  holds  the  dew 
drops.  The  water  was  collected  and  used  in 
the  old  churches  as  holy  water. 


feathery  plumes  add  variety  and  texture  to 
the  garden.  Early  American  settlers  called 
dill  “meeting  house  seeds”  as  they  were 
munched  during  the  long  church  services. 

Behind  the  outdoor  kitchen,  a long  allee 
of  old  fashioned  apple  trees  leads  from  a 
well  to  a laundry  building.  Ribston  Pippin, 
Winesap  and  Gilliflower  apples,  which  we 
have  used  here,  are  listed  by  General  Wash- 
ington as  material  he  ordered  for  his  gar- 
dens at  Mount  Vernon. 

During  his  three  months  residence  at 
Rockingham,  the  General  wrote  longingly 
of  his  passionate  desire  to  retire  to  Mount 
Vernon  and  resume  his  peaceful  life.  He 
stayed  dutifully  in  the  Princeton  area  as 
long  as  the  Congress  needed  him.  After 
that  he  did  have  a few,  but  only  a few  years 
as  the  gentleman  farmer  he  always  wanted 
to  be.  The  gardens  have  recreated  an 
atmosphere  that  we  think  he  would  have 
enjoyed  in  his  brief  stay  in  this  authentic 
and  charming  house,  now  a small  mu- 
seum. 


candles  to  give  them  their  distinctive  scent. 
The  corner  bed  by  the  kitchen  building 
holds  three  plants  that  provoke  the  most 
interest  from  visitors.  The  first  plant  is  the 
tall  rather  awkward  elecampane  ( Inula  he- 
lenium)  with  huge  yellow  flowers  now  seen 
only  in  restored  gardens.  John  Gerard,  the 
noted  Colonial  herbalist,  said,  “its  vertues 
are  against  shortness  of  breath,  old  coughs, 
and  the  roots  chewed  will  fasten  the  teeth." 
Another  recommended  it  for  “divers  pas- 
sions of  the  hucklebones,  called  Sciatica." 
Next  to  the  elecampane  grows  Fuller’s 
teasel  (Dipsacus  sativus),  a coarse,  thistle- 
like plant  whose  heads  bear  hooked  bristles. 
These  were  used  to  tease  and  dress  wool 
cloth  so  as  to  raise  the  nap.  The  man  who 


worked  the  cloth  was  a fuller.  The  third 
plant  is  Dyer's  woad  ( Isatis  tinctoria)  whose 
leaves  when  powdered  and  fermented 
make  a blue  dye.  When  the  Romans  in- 
vaded Britain,  they  found  to  their  horror  that 
the  ancient  natives  dyed  their  bodies  a 
deep  indigo  blue  — that  blue  was  from 
Woad. 

The  plants  described  are  perennials, 
but  we  also  plant  a few  annuals  such  as 
nasturtium,  still  used  as  flavoring  in  salads. 
Sweet  basil  has  also  come  down  to  us 
today  used  just  as  the  Colonial  housewife 
did.  Tarragon,  popular  then  as  now  as 
flavoring  in  chicken  or  lamb  dishes,  does 
not  survive  our  winters,  and  we  replace  it 
yearly.  Dill  grown  easily  from  seed,  and  its 


Rockingham,  Route  518,  Rocky  Hill,  New 
Jersey.  Open  to  the  public  year-round  with- 
out charge,  Wednesday  through  Saturday  9 
to  12  and  1 to  6.  Sunday  1 to  6.  Closed 
Monday  and  Tuesday 


• 

Adra  Fairman  is  the  president  of  the  Board  of 
Trustees  of  the  Rockingham  Association,  which 
has  acquired  most  of  the  furnishings  in  the 
Museum  Her  main  hobby  is  growing  daffodils, 
and  she  is  president  of  the  New  Jersey  Daffodil 
Society.  She  received  the  Horticultural  Award  of 
Zone  IV  of  the  Garden  Club  of  America  in  1982 
and  is  an  accredited  GCA  Horticultural  judge. 
She  is  also  a past  president  of  the  Stony  Brook 
Garden  Club  of  Princeton,  which  installed  the 
gardens  at  Rockingham  and  maintains  them. 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photos  by  John  Gouker 


FLOWER 

(^)  by  Jim  LaRosa 

A unique  and  beautiful  tower  of  flowers, 
well  suited  to  a small  garden  with  limited 
space,  on  either  side  of  an  entrance  door, 
or  on  a patio,  can  be  accomplished  for  very 
little  money  and  effort.  All  you  need  is  a 12" 
clay  or  plastic  pot,  a few  pebbles,  a large 
plastic  trash  bag,  a 36"  square  piece  of 
chicken  wire  mesh,  topsoil,  and  approxi- 
mately 40  seedlings. 

First  roll  the  chicken  wire  into  a cylinder 
so  that  it  will  fit  tightly  down  into  the  pot. 
Line  the  cylinder  with  a large  plastic  trash 
bag.  Fill  the  pot  and  the  cylinder  with  top- 
soil having  lined  the  bottom  of  the  pot  with 
some  pebbles  for  good  drainage.  The  col- 
umn of  wire  will  be  anchored  into  the  pot 
with  the  weight  of  the  soil. 

With  a sharp  object  punch  holes  in  the 
plastic  at  regular  intervals  (every  other 
opening  of  the  screening)  and  plant  with 
seedlings.  Impatiens  and  petunias  or  be- 
gonias have  made  stunningly  effective 
columns  for  me.  Whatever  you  choose  you 
will  be  planting  in  the  top  opening  as  well 
as  in  the  holes  you  have  made  in  the  sides 
of  the  column. 

Over  the  years  of  repeating  this  project, 


I have  found  it  best  to  insert  the  small  plants 
or  seedlings  into  the  openings  as  I layer  the 
topsoil  into  the  cylinder. 

I've  had  fun  with  this  and  you  can,  too. To 
achieve  a barber  pole  effect,  I have  spi- 
raled red  and  white  impatiens.  Equally 
delightful  and  just  as  successful  were  pe- 
tunias in  layers  of  blue  (at  the  bottom), 


TOWER 


white  (in  the  middle)  and  red  (at  the  top) 
Also  smashing  were  begonias  of  various 
colors  on  the  sides  and  white  petunias  on 
top  with  a geranium  in  the  center.  In  an- 
other season  I topped  off  a column  with  a 
small  Pandanus  palm  for  an  amusing  Vic- 
torian look. 

Take  your  time  and  with  a gentle  flow  of 
water  from  a hose,  throughly  soak  down 
through  the  column. 


Flower  Towers  at  Harvest  Show 

Flower  Towers  incorporating  impatiens 
and  begonia  will  be  on  display  as  a 
Challenge  Class  at  the  Flarvest  Show. 
Come  with  your  sketch  pad  for  some 
inspiring  planting  ideas. 


• 

Jim  LaRosa's  lovely  little  garden  in  South  Phila- 
dlephia  was  featured  in  Green  Scene,  July  1 986. 
He  works  on  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural 
Society’s  City  Garden  Contest  Committee  and 
is  a judge.  His  own  garden,  (judged  by  a differ- 
ent panel  of  judges,  of  course)  won  second 
place  in  the  Small  Garden  category  six  times 
and  first  place  once 


Jim  LaRosa  shows  a group  of  potential  exhibitors  how  to  prepare  a Flower  Tower  for  the  Harvest  Show  Challenge  Class.  They  collected  their 
materials  at  Philadelpia  Green's  Garden  Day  at  the  Horticulture  Center  in  Fairmount  Park  in  May. 


33 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


photo  by  John  Gouker 


GROUPING  INTERESTS 


Black  Prince  Pepper  - Capsicum  annuum 
‘Black  Prince’  is  an  exquisite  ornamental 
pepper  with  deep  purple  almost  black 
leaves.  Tiny  lavender  flowers  appear  in 
early  July  followed  by  tiny  cone  shaped 
black  peppers  that  turn  a brilliant  red  in  late 
August  to  mid-September.  The  plant  is  easy 
to  grow,  pest-free  and  disease  resistant. 
Black  Prince  pepper  plants  won  bronze 
medals  in  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural 
Society's  Harvest  Show  for  three  consecu- 
tive years. 

Begin  seeds  indoors  in  a sunny  window, 
greenhouse  or  under  flourescent  lights.  Be 
sure  to  use  a sterilized  seed  starting  mix 
and  plant  seeds  about  1/8"  deep.  Be  pa- 
tient — seedlings  often  do  not  appear  for 
three  weeks.  When  seedlings  reach  a height 
of  one  in.,  begin  feeding  weekly  with  Mir- 
acle Gro  or  a similar  liquid  fertilizer. 

When  plants  reach  a height  of  3 in., 
transplant  to  6 in.  or  8 in.  pots  filled  with  a 
mixture  of  Pro  Mix  and  good  topsoil.  Harden 
off  properly  and  move  to  full  sun  in  the 
garden  in  late  May.  Fertilize  weekly  through- 
out the  summer. 


Frank  Kieser,  a community  gardener  in  West 
Philadelphia,  has  for  a number  of  years  been  a 
member  of  the  advisory  board  of  Philadelphia 
Green.  In  that  capacity,  he  served  as  co-chair  of 
the  Community  Garden's  Division  Horticultural 
Class  annual  Harvest  Show  He  is  co-chair  of 
the  Herb  Division  for  the  1988  Harvest  Show. 


the  plant  finder 

A free  service  for  Green  Scene  readers 

If  you  can’t  locate  a much  wanted  plant 
send  your  name  and  address  (include 
zip),  the  botanical  and  common  name  of 
the  plant  to  Plant  Finder,  Green  Scene, 
PHS,  325  Walnut  St.,  Philadelphia,  PA 
19106. 

WANTED 

Bulbs  of  the  trumpet  strain  Lilium 
longiflorum  Green  Dragon  ’ ( originally  mar- 
keted during  the  late  1950's  through  early 
1960’s).  Contact  William  H.  Frederick,  Jr., 
1454  Ashland  Clinton  School  Road,  Hock- 
essin,  Delaware,  19707 


classified  ads 


34 


GARDEN  CENTER  TRAINEE 

Horticultural  or  retail  experience. 
Full  time.  Benefits. 

Work  for  an  industry  leader: 

Snipes  Farm  & Nursery 

US  1 

Morrisville,  PA 
215-295-1138 


HOLIDAY  GREENS 

It’s  not  too  early! 

Douglas  Fir  7-9  feet 
Suitable  for  Christmas  Wreath  Material 
Price  per  tree: 
cut  $8 
baled  $9 
to  tailgate  $10 
Please  call  for  appointment 
SHANAHAN’S  TREE  FARMS 
and 

NURSERIES 

RD  2 BOX  73B 
HONEY  BROOK  PA  19344 
(215)  273-3318 

CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
HARDY  AZALEAS  AND  RHODODENDRONS 

Northern  Grown  and  Acclimated 
Proven  Hardy  Without  Winter  Protection 
Big  sizes!  Big  selection!  Personal  service! 
Two-Year  Catalog  Subscription: 

$2.00  (deductible) 

CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
Box  305-GS988,  South  Salem,  NY  10590 
(914)763-5958 


Water  lilies,  darting  goldfish  and  splashing 
water  provide  you  with  a soothing  atmosphere,  a 
pleasant  focal  point  in  your  garden.  The  1988 
LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS  catalogue  fea- 
tures all  it  takes  to  create  your  own  garden  oasis, 
including  the  pool. 

The  Lilypons  catalogue  and  seasonal  newslet- 
ters $5.00 

Catalogue  by  priority  mail  $6.75. 

LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS 

5300  Scenic  Road 
P.O.  Box  10 

Lilypons,  MD  21717-0010 
(301)  874-5133 

Forest  and  Meadow  Restoration 

Integrating  Landscape  Design,  Sculptural  proc- 
ess and  ecology. 

Wildlands  can  be  healthier,  more  beautiful  and 
more  accessible.  Working  with  the  existing 
vegetation,  Sere  unlocks  the  inherent  beauty  of 
each  site 

Creating  and  framing  new  views. 

Designing  trails  in  the  forest  or  meadow. 
Removing  destructive  vines  and  invasive 
species. 

Allowing  the  native  landscape  to  rebound  and 
flourish. 

SERE  LTD. 

5023  McKEAN  AVE.,  PHILA.  PA  19144 
(215)  848-5099 
Call  for  our  brochure. 

Residential,  Commercial  and 
Public  Landscapes. 


JANCO  GREENHOUSES 

by 

C & O BUILDERS,  INC. 

Radnor,  Pa.  19087 
215-527-3937 

WOODLANDERS 

RARELY  OFFERED  DIXIE  NATIVES  AND 
INTRODUCTIONS,  woody  herbaceous,  all 
nursery-grown.  Many  hardy  northward.  Send 
50c  postage  for  mail-order  list. 

WOODLANDERS  GS, 

1128  Colleton  Ave.,  Aiken,  SC  29801. 

MANY  HARVEST  SPECIALS 

Indian  corn  with  herbal  bouquet 
Shrubs  for  Naturalizing 
Sumac,  Buttonball  Shrub,  Summersweet, 
Harry  Lauder's  Walking  Stick,  Devil's  Club, 
Bayberry. 

Weeping  European  Mountain  Ash,  Butterfly 
Bushes  and  Weed  (Asclepias),  Hibiscus, 
Cardinal  Flower 
Patio  Plants 

Large  Bay  Leaf  only  $4.99 
Jasmine,  Fragrant  Olive,  Camillia. 

Fall  Blooming  Clematis,  including  the  Blue 
Hyacinth  scented  variety. 

Triple  Oaks  Nursery  and  Florist 
Route  47  Delsea  Drive 
Franklinville,  NJ  08322 
609-694-4272 

OPEN  7 DAYS 

Less  than  45  minutes  from  Center  City  Philadel- 
phia. Walt  Whitman  Bridge  to  Rte.  42,  Franklin- 
ville exit  at  Turnersville  to  Rte.  47. 


Advertising  copy  should  be  submitted  8 weeks  before  issue  date:  November,  January,  March,  May,  July,  September  Minimum  rate  $1 5 Charges  based  on  $4.00  per  line 
Less  10%  discount  tor  two  or  more  consecutive  issues,  using  same  copy.  All  copy  should  be  accompanied  by  check  made  out  to  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL 
nriCTV  and  coni  tn  Inconh  Rnhincnn  CRFFN  SP.FNF  Walnut  Street  Philadelphia.  PA  19106. 


f\ 


ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY  LANDSCAPE 
NURSERY,  Philadelphia  Flower  Show  MAJOR 
AWARD  WINNER  1988,  1987,  1986,  1984, 
1982.  Montgomery’s  welcomes  you  to  visit  our 
13-acre  nursery,  located  on  a restored  Chester 
County  farm  in  lovely  historic  Chester  Springs, 
Pa.  Growers  of  over  1 ,000  varieties  of  perennials 
in  mature  sizes  to  compliment  established  land- 
scape. Our  full  service  landscape  nursery  can  fill 
all  your  gardening  needs  with  25  full-time  horti- 
culturists on  staff. 

Patio  Furniture  Shop  • Greenhouses 
6 Acres  Nursery  Stock  • Landscape  Materials 
Garden  Shop  • Professional  Landscape 
Design  and  Installation 
Growers  of  over  10,000  beautiful  Mums 
Opening  October  29 
Montgomery’s  Christmas 
Wonderland 

Call  Now  for  Fall  Design  Consultation 

ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY  LANDSCAPE 
NURSERY 

Our  Only  Location: 

Route  113,  Chester  Springs,  PA 

363-2477 

Open  7 Days  a Week 


LARGE  TREES 

Shade 

Conifers 

Rare  Ornamentals 
Bought,  Sold,  Transplanted 

Tree  Transfers,  Inc. 
(215)  635-2310 


LOOKING  FOR  A BETTER  POSITION  IN 
HORTICULTURE? 

Employers  are  seeking  trained 
Horticultural  help. 

If  you  are  considering  a job  change,  looking  for 
your  first  job,  or  just  want  to  know  what  is  avail- 
able, give  us  a call.  We  offer  a range  of  job 
placement  services  including  resume  prepara- 
tion and  can  help  find  the  right  position  for  you. 
Contact: 

L.V.  HOWLEY,  VANTINE  ASSOCIATES 
524  Sharpless  Street 
West  Chester,  PA  19382 
(215)  692-6833 


HERBS 

Dried  Herbs  and  Everlastings 
Call  for  information  on  classes: 
Harvesting,  Potpourri,  and  Cooking 
with  Herbs. 

THE  DILLY  DUO  HERBS 

2015  Potshop  Rd. 
Norristown,  PA  19403 
(215)  539-7371 


OUTDOOR  FURNITURE  SPECIALISTS 
THE  HILL  CO. 

An  outstanding  selection  of  outdoor  furniture 
and  accessories.  Featuring  select  pieces  from 
Molla  and  introducing  the  Winterthur  Collection. 

8615  Germantown  Ave., 

Chestnut  Hill  247-7600. 


GARDEN  DESIGN  - Design  and  installation  of 
specialty  gardens  including  perennial  borders, 
herb,  kitchen  and  English  cottage  gardens. 
CAROL  MANICONE  (215)  822-1025. 

Creative  quality  Trellis  and  Lattices  (fixed  or 
movable),  also  exterior  lights,  and  speakers. 
Send  $1 .00  for  a catalog  to:  Simple’s  Creative 
Light,  Trellises,  Speaker,  Box  69G,  R.D.#2, 
Honey  Brook,  PA  19344. 


AMERICAN  CONIFER  SOCIETY 

Interested  in  dwarf  conifers  and  their  companion 
plants?  Join  the  ACS:  Quarterly  Bulletin,  Annual 
summer  meetings  held  all  over  the  U S.  Tax 
deductible  dues  $20.00  annually.  Write:  AMERI- 
CAN CONIFER  SOCIETY,  c/o  Maxine 
Schwarz,  ACS  Secretary,  P.O.  Box  242,  Sev- 
erna  Park,  MD  21146. 


GREEN  DESIGNS 
GARDEN  DESIGN  and  PLANTING 
DON  GREEN 

Lost  your  garden  due  to  the  heat? 
We  can  help  you  bring  it  back. 

Restorative  Landscaping 
and  Consulting  Services 
884-1416 


AT  WATERLOO  GARDENS 
FALL  IS  FOR  PLANTING! 

Visit  Delaware  Valley’s 

LARGEST  GARDEN  CENTER... 

YOUR  BULB  HEADQUARTERS! 

The  Finest  Selection  of 
Usual  & Unusual  Varieties 

MUMS! 

Old  Favorites  • New  Varieties  & Colors! 

AZALEAS  • RHODODENDRON 
SHADE  & FLOWERING  TREES 
HOLLIES  • RARE  CONIFERS 
DECORATIVE  CONTAINERS 
(To  pot  your  houseplants  & bring  indoors) 
Outstanding  BONSAI  COLLECTION 
TOPIARIES  & TRAINED  PLANTS 
ORCHIDS  & Orchid  Potting  Products 
CACTUS  & SUCCULENTS 

— WATERLOO  GARDENS  — 

Exton  - 200  N.  Whitford  Rd.  (215)363-0800 
Devon  - 136  Lancaster  Ave.  (215)293-0800 

OPEN  7 DAYS! 


DAFFODIL  BULBS 

Daffodil  bulb  growers  for  three  generations; 
specializing  in  miniature,  novelty,  and  naturaliz- 
ing cultivars;  also  offers  1 0 types  of  paperwhites, 
as  well  as  bulb  fertilizer,  unique  planting  tools 
and  accessories.  Send  $1  for  price  list,  $3  for 
color  booklet.  The  Daffodil  Mart,  Brent  & Becky 
Heath,  Rte.  3,  Box  794-GS,  Gloucester,  V A 
23061. 


DAVID  BROTHERS 

Landscape  Architects,  Builders 
and  Nurserymen 

Providing  the  Fine  Art  of  Garden  Construction 
and  Landscape  Restoration. 
QUALITY  SERVICE  WITH  COURTESY 
AND  RELIABILITY. 

EDGAR  and  KIM  DAVID 
247-2992  584-1550 


VISIT 

BARTRAM’S  GARDEN 

America's  oldest  botanic  garden.  Tour  historic 
Bartram  House  and  walk  the  same  trails  that 
Washington,  Franklin,  Jefferson  and  the  other 
delegates  of  the  constitutional  convention  en- 
joyed two  hundred  years  ago. 

Bartram's  House  open 
noon-4pm 
Wed  - Sun 
Admission  charge 

54th  St.  at  Lindbergh  Blvd., 
Philadelphia,  PA  19143 
Phone:  (215)  729-5281 


THE  FALL  GARDEN 
at 

J.  Franklin  Styer  Nurseries 

where  you  will  find  all  your  favorite  fall  perennials 
and  hardy  nursery  stock.  Fall  mums,  asters, 
sedums  and  ornamental  grasses,  trees,  shrubs 
and  evergreens. 

October  means  Pumpkin  Patch:  October  1st, 

giant  sand  pumpkins,  pumpkin  patch  people, 
pony  rides,  food  and  entertainment  for  the  whole 
family. 

J.  Franklin  Styer  Nurseries 
US  Rte  1 

Concordville,  PA 
215-459-2400 

Be  sure  it's  the  original 
Since  1890 


FOR  SALE 

One  and  three-quarter  acres  of  beautiful  wood- 
land near  the  center  of  Bryn  Mawr.  Mature 
beech,  poplar,  pine  and  dogwood  frame  this 
gracious  stone  colonial  with  large  living  room, 
dining  room,  library  and  family  room,  overlooking 
a delightful  patio  and  pool.  Perfect  for  entertain- 
ing. Peace  and  privacy  prevail  over  these  beau- 
tifully landscaped  gardens,  stream,  woods  and 
wildflowers.  An  added  plus  is  a first  floor  bed- 
room and  bath  for  guests  or  as  an  in-law  suite.  An 
upstairs  master  bedroom  and  bath  plus  two 
additional  bedrooms  and  bath  complete  this 
charming  home.  $538,000.  Telephone 
(215)525-6777. 

NEAL  SHAFFER 
Elegant  English  Gardenflowers 
Wonderful  Wedding  Flowers 
Sumptuous,  Scrumptious  Flowers 
Wonderful  wedding  flowers 
PARTYFLOWERS,  LTD. 

By  Appointment  925-3618 
Workshop:  2737  Cambridge  St.,  Phila.,  19130 

AUTUMN  FLOWERS  - 
MUM  ALTERNATIVES 
at  Meadowbrook  Farm 

Over  25  varieties  fall  blooming  perennials,  plus 
selection  of  mums,  too!  30  varieties  Ornamental 
grasses.  Seedling  perennials  - delphinium,  etc.  - 
plant  now  for  better  bloom  next  year.  Trees  and 
shrubs.  Educate  yourself  in  our  Display  Garden. 

Bulbs  - fall  and  spring  blooming.  Our  selection  of 
unusual  and  ‘better  bulbs.' 

In  our  greenhouses:  rare  exotics,  flowering 
plants  and  topiary  for  gifts  and  centerpieces. 
Statuary,  fountains  and  decorative  pots. 

Custom  and  specialty  orders  welcome.  Whole- 
sale, Retail.  12  miles  form  Center  City. 

“For  your  special  garden  needs. " 
MEADOWBROOK  FARM 

1633  Washington  La.,  Meadowbrook,  PA  19046 
887-5900  Mon-Sat  10-5 


LINDA  CORSON 
LANDSCAPE  DESIGN 

• Consulting 

• Plans 

• Supervision 

Member  ASLA 

Registered  Landscape  Architect 
215-247-5619 


INDIAN  RUN  NURSERY 
RHODODENDRONS 

New  Jersey  grown,  small-leaved  & large-leaved 
Species  and  hybrids.  Nursery  is  3/4  mi.  fromNJ 
Turnpike  exit  7A.  East  of  1-95  at  Exit  7.  By  ap- 
pointment only.  INDIAN  RUN  NURSERY,  Allen- 
town Rd.,  Robbinsville,  NJ  08691,  609-259- 
2600. 


Garden  open  daily 
Free  to  public 


the  green  scene  / September  1988 


White  foxglove 
(Digitalis  purpurea 
‘Alba’)  See  page  26 


3F  THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  • *^JOV.yDEC,1988 

• v*'4  • • 

V.  ••  .. 


In  the  Grand 
Holiday  Tradition 

See  page  4 


in  this  issue 


3.  Trees  Around  Which  to 
Dance 

Jean  Byrne 

4.  In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tra- 
dition at  Longwood  Gardens: 
Poinsettia  Tree  Standards 

Colvin  Randall 

6.  In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tra- 
dition at  Longwood  Gardens: 
The  True  Christmas  Cactus 
Makes  a Comeback  at  Long- 
wood Gardens 
Dale  Lauver 

8.  In  the  Grand  Holiday 
Tradition  at  Brandywine  River 
Museum:  Christmas  Critters 

John  Sheppard 

10.  In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tra- 
dition at  Winterthur  Museum 
and  Gardens:  Reliving 
America’s  Past 

11.  Kathleen  K.  Meserve:  The 
Woman  Who  Shook  the  Holly 
World 

Edwin  A.  Peeples 


14.  Brighten  the  Winter  Land- 
scape with  Deciduous  Hollies 

Andrew  Bunting 

18.  Varsity  Gardeners 

Anne  S.  Cunningham 

23.  A Tale  of  Seeding  Trees 

Barbara  Bruno 

26.  A Pocketful  of  Seeds  for 
Unusual  Trees 

Toni  Brinton 

28.  Oasis 

Kristi  Jalics 

31.  Growing  Interests 

34.  Invitation  to  Plant  Socie- 
ties 

34.  Green  Scene  Subscription 
Form 

34.  Classified  Advertising 
CORRECTION: 

The  photos  in  the  September  issue  of 
Green  Scene  on  page  16,17  and  1 8 
were  taken  by  Lisa  Dahlbeck,  not 
Andrew  Ducsik. 


Volume  17,  Number  2 November/December  1988 

THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULATURAL  SOCIETY 

325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon 


Robert  S.  Ryan  / Chair 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byrne  / Editor  Joseph  P.  Robinson  / Editorial  Assislanl 

Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 


PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 


Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Steven  A.  Frowine  Natalie  Kempner 

Darrel  Apps  Adele  G.  Greenfield  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell.  Baxendells'  Graphic- 

Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 

Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 


THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580)  Volume  17,  No.  2.  published  bimonthly,  January,  March, 
May,  July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non-profit  membership 
organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription:  $8.50 — Single  Copy:  $1.50. 
Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  • POSTMASTER:  Send  address  change  to  THE 
GREEN  SCENE.  325  Walnut  street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 

© Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  1988 


Front  and  Back  Covers:  In  the 
Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Long- 
wood Gardens.  See  page  4. 


Green  Scene  subscriptions  are  part  of  the  membership  benefits  for: 

Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  Blithewold  Gardens  and  Arboretum 
Maryland  Horticultural  Society  Hershey  Gardens  of  Hershey,  PA 

Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 


Photo  by  Larry  Albee 


Wf//Q 

by  Jean  Byrne 


Ingmar  Bergman's 
movie  “Fannie  and 
Alexander"  opens 
with  an  extraordinary 
sequence  depicting 
Christmas  prepara- 
tions at  the  turn  of  the 
century  in  the  home 
of  a Swedish  theatri- 
cal family.  Aunts, 
uncles,  fathers,  moth- 
ers, children  and  ser- 
vants busy  them- 
selves with  hampers 
full  of  food  and  gifts 
for  the  celebration. 

The  star  of  the  event 
was,  of  course,  the 
enormous  tree,  exqui- 
sitely ornamented  and 
lit  with  candles.  Ev- 
eryone clasped  hands  and  joyously  danced 
around  the  tree  and  through  the  house. 
When  1 saw  that  movie  several  years  ago.  I 
went  limp  with  nostalgia,  thinking  to  take 
out  an  ad  somewhere  to  see  if  anyone 
planned  such  a tree  to  dance  around.  Count 
me  in. 

Well,  I satisfied  some  of  that  longing  to 
reclaim  the  past  great  holiday  tradition  last 
year  as  I slipped  over  from  my  office  to  the 
PHS  Holiday  Exhibit  often  and  on  the  slim- 
mest pretexts  to  stare  at  the  charmingly  or- 
namented trees.  Finally,  I gathered  up  three 
friends  from  out  of  town  to  tour  the  lovely 
exhibits  at  Brandywine  Museum,  Long- 


4 

\ 

a 


wood  Gardens  and 
Winterthur  Museum. 
My  friends  had  never 
been  to  these  places 
before,  so  I timed  our 
exit  from  Longwood 
Gardens  Conserva- 
tory to  happen  at  late 
dusk;  we  all  gasped  at 
the  trees,  lit  on  the 
hills.  We  linked  arms 
and  felt  that  surely  the 
present  was  as  good 
as  the  past.  I felt  si- 
lently grateful  to  all 
those  people  in  or- 
ganizations and  stores 
who  take  the  trouble 
and  care  to  create  a 
season  of  warmth  and 
pleasure;  who  help 
visually  toevoke  the  intimacy,  real  or  imag- 
ined, of  the  extended  families  of  the  past. 
We  felt  it  that  day;  of  course  we  did  not 
dance  around  the  trees,  but  1 have  my  eye  on 
the  big  tree  in  Rittenhouse  Square.  Maybe 
after  the  carols  this  year 


The  PHS  Holiday  Exhibit  is  open 
Monday,  December  12  through  Wed- 
nesday, December  28,  9 am  to  5 pm. 
Closed  for  Christmas  December  23 
through  26. 


the  green  scene  / november  19SS 


Ji  In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tradition 

at  Longwood  Gardens 


Poinsettia  Tree  Standards 


by  Colvin  Randall 


Nearly  two  dozen  poinsettia  tree 
standards  are  a spectacular  addi- 
tion to  the  Christmas  displays  at 
Longwood  Gardens.  Long- 
wood’s  John  Testorf  has  been  growing  them 
for  years,  aided  by  the  grafting  skills  of 
Dave  Cox.  Here’s  how  they  do  it: 

Longwood’s  tree  standards  are  grafted 
using  poinsettia  ‘Eckespoint  C-l  Red'  as 
the  rootstock.  This  cultivar  grows  upright 
with  minimal  side  branching.  Cuttings  are 
taken  in  May  fora  standard  that  ultimately 
will  be  6 feet  tall,  two  and  a half  years  later, 
or  in  June  for  an  eventual  height  of  5 feet. 
They  start  in  a 5"  pot  and  move  later  into  an 
8"  pot,  soil  is  slightly  acid  (pH  6-6.5). 

The  cutting  grows  into  a tall,  central 
leader.  Staking  is  not  yet  required.  The 
flower  buds  and  bracts  that  appear  late  in 
the  year  are  removed  and  the  plant  allowed 
to  rest  beginning  in  January.  The  soil  is  kept 
slightly  moist,  all  fertilizers  withheld  and 
temperatures  maintained  at  70°  F day,  60° 
night. 

In  March,  the  straight  stem  produces 
new  growth  at  the  top.  Just  below  this  area, 
around  the  stem,  a half-dozen  or  so  T-bud 
grafts  are  made  about  J une  1 , inserting  buds 
from  a pendulous  poinsettia  cultivar.  Long- 
wood uses,  among  others,  the  red  ‘Annette 
Hegg  Brilliant  Diamond.'  Its  slightly  weep- 
ing habit  makes  it  ideal  for  hanging  baskets 
or  for  the  top  part  of  a standard. 

We  remove  all  understock  top  growth  in 
August  after  the  grafts  are  well  established. 
Sometimes  all  six  grafts  will  have  taken, 
other  times  only  four.  We  pinch  the  grafted 
top  growth  back  to  two  or  three  sets  of 
leaves  (the  only  pinch  that  season).  Don't 
pinch  after  September  20  if  you  want  Christ- 
mas color. 

Although  the  new  standard  can  be  dis- 
played after  just  a year  and  a half  of  growth, 
Longwood  Gardens  waits  an  additional  year 
to  ensure  a fully  developed  top. 

After  the  holidays,  cut  to  remove  both 
flowers  and  bracts,  and  let  the  standards 
rest  for  three  to  four  months  (little  water,  no 


fertilizer,  70°  F day,  60°  night).  In  March 
nearly  two  years  after  the  initial  rootstock 
cuttings  were  made,  the  standard  is  trans- 
planted into  a 10"  pot  holding  a metal 
support  long  enough  to  reach  into  the  top 
growth.  Longwood’s  stakes  are  secured  to 
an  “X"  foot  sitting  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
The  stem  is  tied  to  the  stake. 

In  April  we  cut  back  two  nodes  or  so  into 
the  most  recent  growth.  As  this  grows  out, 
it’s  pinched  again  and  weaker  stems  thinned 
out.  After  that,  two  more  pinchings  and 
more  thinning  each  time. 

In  the  fall,  the  standards  are  given  addi- 
tional stability  by  tying  the  top  growth  to 
the  metal  stake  using  long  pieces  of  string. 
This  anchoring  lessens  the  chances  of  the 
branches  breaking  off,  especially  while 
moving  the  standards  into  the  display  site. 

Longwood  currently  maintains  standards 
begun  in  1976,  1982,  and  1984  in  12"  pots; 
the  older  ones  require  substantial  thinning 
to  keep  the  bracts  large  throughout. 


Poinsettias  trained  as  standards  add  imposing 
formality  to  Longwood  Garden's  Conserva- 
tory Christmas  display.  Such  training  is  best 
left  to  the  skilled  amateur  or  professional 
horticulturist. 


(Note:  These  directions  assume  you  are  familiar 
with  conventional  poinsettia  culture,  including 
the  need  for  complete  darkness  all  night  long 
during  the  flower  initiation  process.) 


Colvin  Randall  is  publicity  coordinator  and  pub- 
lications editor  of  Longwood  Gardens. 


Sources 


Local  retail  greenhouse  operations  in 
December  sell  directly  to  the  public;  ask 
for  the  specific  cultivar  as  a stock  plant 
from  which  you  would  take  your  own 
cuttings.  Note  that  most  cultivars  are 
protected  by  plant  patents. 


Longwood  Gardens  Annual 
Holiday  Extravaganza 


December  1 through  January  1.  The 
theme  “Christmas  Around  the  World,” 
with  eight  colorfully  decorated  trees, 
portrays  international  holiday  traditions, 
including  a Renaissance  repast  with 
“knights”  in  shining  armor.  Horticul- 
tural highlights  indoors  include  2,300 
poinsettias,  paperwhite  narcissi,  irises, 
begonias,  Christmas  cacti,  blue  cole- 
uses, and  cyclamens. 

Conservatory  hours:  10am-9  pm  ev- 
ery day,  with  half-hour  organ  sing-alongs 
scheduled  daily  at  1:30,  2:30,  3:30,  and 
4:30  pm  through  Jan.  1;  from  Dec.  1 
through  Dec.  23,  evening  choral  con- 
certs are  scheduled  at  7 and  8 pm.  Out- 
doors, from  5-9  pm  thousands  of  lights 
sparkle  on  dozens  of  trees,  and  weather 
permitting,  the  illuminated  fountains  on 
the  stage  of  the  Open  Air  Theatre  dance 
to  holiday  music.  Admission  is  $6  adults, 
$1.50  children  ages  6-14,  and  free  for 
children  under  age  6.  Group  rates  are 
available.  For  a complete  schedule  of 
events,  send  a stamped  self-addressed 
business  envelope  (9"  x 4")  to  Schedule, 
Longwood  Gardens,  P.O.  Box  50 1 , Ken- 
nett  Square  PA  19348.  Phone:  215-388- 
6741. 


Longwood  Gardens  is  located  on  U.S. 
Route  1,  three  miles  northeast  of  Ken- 
nett  Square,  PA  and  30  miles  west  of 
Philadelphia  in  the  historic  Brandywine 
Valley. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  by  Dick  Keen 


The  view  toward  the 
Music  Room  tree  is 
enhanced  by  an  allee  of 
poinsettia  standards  and 
hanging  baskets.  (1985 
display) 


r \ 


.<1 


In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tradition 

at  Longwood  Gardens 


6 


The  True  Christmas  Cactus 
Makes  a Comeback 
at  Longwood  Gardens 


by  Dale  Lauver 


While  visiting  your  grandmother  - 
during  the  holidays  years  ago  c 
you  may  remember  seeing  a - 
cactus  plant  in  full  bloom  on  ' 
her  living  room  tea  stand.  It’s  likely  that  the  c 
plant  was  the  old  true  Christmas  cactus. 

The  true  Christmas  cactus  (Schlum- 
bergera  bridgesii)  is  native  to  Brazil  and 
blooms  with  a profusion  of  magenta  pink 
flowers.  Economics  has  placed  on  the 
market  more  common  cultivars  of  Schlum- 
bergera  truncata , which  actually  are 
Thanksgiving  cactus.  They  can  be  found  in 
a wide  variety  of  colors  and  usually  Bower 
anywhere  from  mid  to  late  Novembergiven 
natural  light  conditions.  This  permits  the 
grower  to  have  plants  on  the  shelves  with 
flowers  showing  in  advance  for  Christmas 
sales. 

S.  bridgesii  was  chosen  to  be  in  Long- 
wood Garden’s  Christmas  display  partially 
because  of  its  traditional  values  and  also 
because  it  can  withstand  cool  temperatures, 
and  would  therefore  complement  our  Christ- 
mas display  in  a house  that  already  had  per- 
manent plants  in  a cool  dormancy  period. 
Although  this  species  requires  warm  tem- 
peratures such  as  a Philadelphia  summer 
for  growing,  it  tolerates  cool  temperatures 
and  shows  a good  flush  of  flowers  provided 
the  buds  are  near  full  development  before 
the  onset  of  cooler  temperatures.  This  spe- 
cies can  tolerate  45°  F temperatures  up  to  a 
month  with  no  ill  effects. 

The  plants  were  scheduled  for  display 
December  1.  We  began  our  preparations 
the  preceding  January.  We  took  cuttings 
January  21  and  placed  them  in  a medium 
under  artificial  lights  for  a 1 4 hour  day  with 
70°  bottom  heat.  Flats  were  syringed  over 
once  each  morning  until  rooted.  This  is  an 
easy  plant  to  root  from  cuttings  so  we  took 
no  unnecessary  pains  during  the  rooting 
process.  The  rooting  medium  consisted  of 
one  part  raw  sphagnum  moss  and  one  part 


Schlumbergera  bridgesii 


cattleya  orchid  bark  mix  (equal  parts  #2 
horticulturist  charcoal  and  medium  grade 
redwood  chips).  Cuttings  were  at  least  two 
to  three  cladophylls  long  and  “Y”  type  or 
branched  cuttings  were  used  as  much  as 
possible. 

On  February  23,  cuttings  were  rooted 
and  three  were  placed  in  each  clay  azalea 
pot.  The  growing  medium  was  the  same  as 
the  rooting  medium  for  these  epiphytic 
plants.  Using  the  same  mix  for  rooting  and 
growing  minimizes  transplant  shock  and 
acclimation  time.  Sphagnum  moss  alone, 
while  providing  an  airy  and  well-drained 
light  growing  medium,  collapses  and  be- 
comes anaerobic  with  overwatering.  The 
redwood  chips  help  to  establish  a super- 
structure, which  bridges  and  prevents  the 
mixture’s  collapse;  redwood  decomposes 
slowly.  The  charcoal  adds  to  the  mixture’s 
balance  of  moisture  retention  and  aeration. 
Don’t  overpack  the  growing  mix.  Keeping 
the  mix  only  damp  or  slightly  dry  while 
potting  helps  avoid  that. 

After  potting,  we  placed  the  plants  in  a 
55°  house  with  bottom  heat  of  60°,  supple- 
mented by  a “Bio-Therm”  root  heating 
system  throughout  the  winter.  During  the 
summer  a medium  coating  shading  was 
sprayed  over  the  house  to  avoid  sun  scald- 
ing. Plants  were  watered  on  demand  but 
never  allowed  to  become  overly  dry.  This 
was  done  the  entire  life  of  the  plants  al- 
though some  growers  believe  the  plants 
must  go  through  a dry  period  to  set  flower. 


forcing  flowering 

In  our  latitude  (40°N)5.  bridgesii  would 
normally  flower  in  late  December  or  early 
January.  Since  we  needed  them  for  display 
on  December  1,  we  put  the  plants  under 
black  cloth  on  September  15  for  30  days 
until  October  15.  (If  we  had  chosen  not  to 
black  cloth  and  relied  on  nature  instead,  we 
wouldn't  get  the  desired  short  day  length 
until  October  15.  Flowering  occurs  9 or  10 
weeks  later,  which  is  why  many  plants 
don 't  bloom  in  time  for  Christmas,  particu- 
larly if  grown  under  cool  conditions.)  The 
black  cloth  was  pulled  over  the  plants  at 
5:00  pm  and  removed  at  8:00  am  the  next 
morning  to  simulate  a nine-hour  day. 

In  addition  to  short  days  for  flower  ini- 
tiation, cool  night  temperatures  in  the  mid- 
60's  are  also  necessary.  If  the  night  tem- 
peratures are  above  70°,  flowers  may  not 
form  regardless  of  the  short-day  photo 
period. 

On  October  22  heat  in  the  greenhouse 
was  being  run  at  a night  temperature  of  55° 
but  bottom  heat  of  60°-65°  was  supplied 
again  by  “Bio-Therm"  root  heating.  By  this 
date  some  flower  buds  could  be  seen  but 
they  were  sporadic  and  few. 

We  fertilized  regularly  throughout  the 
growing  season  using  20-20-20  soluble 
fertilizer  with  one  treatment  of  a soluble 
trace  element  mix  and  epsom  salt  applied  in 
August. 

By  the  end  of  November  most  flower 
buds  were  almost  fully  developed  and  ready 
for  display. 

home  grown 

The  home  gardener  can  obtain  these 
same  results  simply.  Although  it  may  be 
difficult  to  obtain  the  material  that  we  used 
for  the  potting  medium  a substitute  will 
work  well.  Either  make  your  own  out  of 
whatever  materials  are  available  or  buy  a 
ready-mixed  medium  for  epiphytic  plants. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


one  high  in  fibrous 
organic  matter  would 
be  best.  Be  cautious: 
some  soiless  mixes  are 
sold  today  that  were 
intended  to  replace 
soil  mixes.  These  are 
adequate  for  many 
plants  but  they  are 
composed  of  fine 
material  and  in  a short 


The  true  Christmas  Cactus  ( Schlumbergera  bridgesii) 


time  the  physical 
properties  of  these 
mixes  deteriorate.  Try 
to  find  a coarse  epi- 
phytic mix. 

With  a good  qual- 
ity mix  you  should  not 
have  to  repot  that  fre- 
quenly.  Christmas 
cactus  can  be  severely 
pot  bound  and  still  be 
healthy.  The  important  thing  to  remember 
is  that  they  are  shallow  rooting  plants.  Plants 
over  1 5 years  old  are  quite  vigorous  in  a 7- 
inch  clay  pan  style  pot.  Any  container  with 
a depth  of  about  4-5  inches  is  acceptable. 

In  winter  keep  the  plant  in  a cool  but 
bright  area.  Temperatures  near  55°  F would 
be  ideal  but  not  absolutely  necessary.  The 
cool  temperatures  of  a home  windowsill 
will  do  just  fine.  At  this  time  only  water  the 
plant  after  it  has  become  thoroughly  dry. 
Postpone  watering  for  another  day  or  two  if 
you  are  not  sure. 

During  spring  and  summer  avoid  direct 
sunlight  but  allow  plenty  of  bright  or  fil- 
tered light,  which  is  the  same  length  as  the 
natural  day.  Hanging  baskets  or  setting  pots 
under  shade  trees  with  thin  canopies  works 
fine.  Fertilize  monthly  with  a general  house 
plant  fertilizer  and  water  plants  whenever 
they  require  it. 

When  fall  comes  remember  it  takes  two 
conditions  to  initiate  flowerformation:  short 


days  and  cool  temperatures.  Keep  the  plant 
under  natural  light  so  it  experiences  the 
onset  of  short  days  and  avoid  interrupting 
its  nights  by  turning  on  lights  over  or  near 
the  plants  (for  example,  keep  it  in  a seldom- 
used  bedroom).  Also  at  this  time  some 
foliage  may  drop;  don't  panic.  Extreme 
changes  in  temperature  seem  to  cause  this 
to  happen.  This  is  the  plant's  adjustment  to 
new  environmental  conditions  and  should 
affect  the  plant  minimally. 

Although  I exposed  my  plants  to  a short 
day  of  nine  hours  for  forcing,  it  is  not  nec- 
essary for  the  home  gardener  to  do  the 
same.  Since  they  are  a short-day  bloomer 
these  plants  should  respond  and  begin  form- 
ing flowers  in  response  to  a day  that  is  under 
12  hours  in  length.  Day  one  of  the  start  of 
short  days  begins  about  the  day  after  the  fall 
equinox,  September  22.  Blooming  usually 
occurs  two  and  a half  to  three  months  after 
the  start  of  short  days.  Remember,  if  night 
temperatures  are  over  70°F  plants  may  not 


Dale  Lauver  is  section  head  at  Longwood  Gar- 
dens in  charge  of  the  cactus  and  succulent  col- 
lection. the  fem  collection,  the  cascade  chrysan- 
themums, and  the  new  Silver  Garden. 


Sources 

California  EPI  Center 
P.O.  Box  1431 
Vista  CA  92083 

Catalog  $1.;  Tel.  (619)  758-4290 

Altman  Specialty  Plants 
553  Buena  Creek  Road 
San  Marcos  CA  92069 
Tel.  (619)744-8191 

Layser's  Flowers,  Inc. 

501  W.  Washington  Ave. 
Meyerstown  PA  17067 
Tel.  (717)  866-5746 


flower  regardless  of 
short-day  exposure. 
Keep  the  plants  in  a 
cool  sun  porch  or  on  a 
cool  windowsill. 
Night  temperatures 
around  the  mid-60°  F 
during  short  day  ex- 
posure are  best.  Once 
you  see  flower  buds, 
move  the  plant  where 
you  will  display  it  for 
the  season  and  enjoy 
its  beauty.  Keep  in 
mind  cooler  tempera- 
tures will  prolong  the 
life  of  the  flowers  (by 
two  to  five  weeks) 
while  hot,  dry  air  will 
expend  them  rapidly. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tradition 


i&p>  at  Brandywine  River  Museum 


An  expanded  version 
of  Noah's  ark,  which 
debuted  in  1987,  will 
be  featured  this  year. 
Two  volunteers, 
Norma  Nelson  of 
Wilmington,  Dela- 
ware, and  Estelle 
Sherman  of  Wood- 
stock,  New  Jersey, 
coordinated  this 
project.  A team  of 
volunteers,  each  made 
two  animals  and  it 
took  them  almost  two 
months  to  complete 
their  work.  The  ark 
was  built  by  W.  Y.  C. 
Dean  of  Chadds  Ford. 

Pennsylvania. 


Christmas  Critters 

by  John  Sheppard 


Throughout  the  year,  hardworking 
teams  of  volunteers  at  the  Bran- 
dywine River  Museum  forage  in 
nearby  fields  and  woods  for  twigs,  cones, 
pods  and  seeds.  These  are  used  to  fashion 
fierce  tigers,  fanciful  angels,  glittering  stars 
and  hundreds  of  other  charming  ornaments 
for  the  Museum’s  holiday  trees,  wreaths 
and  other  exhibits  shown  throughout  the 
Museum. 

“A  Brandywine  Christmas,”  is  one  of 
the  most  popularexhibitions  at  the  museum 
in  Chadds  Ford,  Pennsylvania.  The  Mu- 
seum is  the  showcase  of  the  Brandywine 
Conservancy,  which  seeks  to  conserve  the 
area’s  natural,  historic  and  artistic  heritage. 
In  1984  the  museum’s  volunteers  were 


asked  to  decorate  the  Christmas  tree  in  the 
reception  area  at  the  White  House  for  Presi- 
dent Reagan  and  the  First  Lady.  In  1986, 
the  original  handmade  natural  White  House 
ornaments  were  rounded  up  with  hundreds 
of  new  ornaments  to  adom  the  Smithsonian 
Institution’s  featured  tree  in  its  retrospec- 
tive “Trees  of  Christmas”  exhibition. 

A booklet  full  of  ideas  and  illustrations 
for  making  these  unusual  and  beautiful 
natural  ornaments  is  available  through  the 
Brandywine  River  Museum  Shop.  More 
than  1 0,000  copies  of  the  booklet  have  been 
sold  since  it  was  written  and  illustrated  by 
Libby  Dean  and  Anne  Scarlett  in  1975. 
Available  at  the  Museum  for  $2.00;  by  mail 
$3.00. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Another  welcome 
holiday  visitor  with 
friends. 


A Brandywine  Museum 

Beginning  Nov.  25  and  continuing 
through  Jan.  8:  trees,  trains,  gold  jew- 
elry and  antique  Christmas  ornaments. 

Working  O-gauge  model  trains  fill 
a gallery.  In  addition  to  the  Christmas 
trees  decorated  with  whimsical  orna- 
ments sculpted  from  natural  plant  mate- 
rials by  the  museum’s  volunteers,  some 
treasured  past  Christmas  gifts  from  the 
Wyeth  family’s  personal  collections: 
Ann  Wyeth  McCoy’s  famous  collec- 
tion of  antique  dolls  and  a display  of 
Betsy  Wyeth’s  personal  jewelry  col- 
lection, custom-made  by  goldsmith 
Donald  Pywell  of  Wawa,  PA.,  and  in- 
spired by  the  paintings  of  her  husband, 
artist  Andrew  Wyeth. 

On  Dec.  3-4:  A “Critter”  sale,  from 
9:30  a.m.  to  4:30  p.m.  Original  Bran- 
dywine River  Museum  “critters,  angels 
and  stars”  from  $5.00  to  $15.00,  de- 
pending on  the  size  and  materials  of 


Holiday  Calendar 

each  ornament.  Proceeds  will  benefit 
Volunteers'  Art  Acquisition  Fund. 

“A  Brandywine  Christmas”  open 
daily,  9:30  to  4:30,  from  the  day  after 
Thanksgiving  through  the  first  weekend 
in  January,  except  Christmas  day.  Spe- 
cial extended  hours  Dec.  26-30,  when  the 
museum  will  remain  open  until  8 p.m. 
The  museum  is  located  on  U.S.  Route 

I in  Chadds  Ford,  Pa.  The  restaurant, 
will  feature  special  treats  for  the  holiday 
season:  The  restaurant’s  regular  hours 

I I a.m.  to  3 p.m.,  will  be  extended  to  7 
p.m.,  Dec.  26-30. 

Admission  is  $3.00/adults;  $1.50/ 
children  6-12,  students  with  i.d.  and 
senior  citizens.  Children  under  six,  free. 
Guided  tours  available  by  reservation 
for  adult  and  school  groups.  The  facility 
is  designed  for  the  physically  impaired. 
For  further  information,  call  (215)  388- 
7601  or  (215)  459-1900. 


9 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


John  Sheppard  is  director  of  Public  Relations  for 
the  Brandywine  Conservancy  and  its  Museum. 


Photos  Courtesy  of  Winterthur  Museum  & Gardens 


The  Winterthur  Christmas  tree.  An  1 8-foot  ever- 
green decorated  with  more  than  1 ,000  tiny  white 
lights  and  a magnificent  array  of  dried  flowers, 
including  cockscomb,  thistles,  goldenrod,  blue 
salvia,  zinnias,  Peter’s  penny,  lamb’s  ear,  roses, 
dahlias,  and  marigolds,  most  of  which  are  gath- 
ered on  the  Winterthur  estate. 


In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at 


at  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens 


Reliving 

America’s 

Past 


Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens  Holiday  Tour  Relives  America’s  Past 

Tour  Facts 

Description:  75-minute  guided  tours  of  rooms  that  recreate  the  winter  holiday 
celebrations  of  early  America.  Reservations  suggested. 
November  15-December  31,  1988. 

Daytime  tours  leave  every  half  hour,  Tuesday-Saturday  10  a. m. 
to  3:30  p.m.;  Sunday,  noon  to  5:30  p.m.  Evening  tours,  Tuesdays 
and  Wednesdays  only,  November  29-December  21,6  p.m.  to  8 
p.m.  Closed  Mondays,  Thanksgiving,  Christmas  Eve,  and  Christ- 
mas. 

Daytime  tours:  $8,  adults:  $7,  Winterthur  Guild  members;  $4, 
children  under  17;  and  $3.50,  children  of  Guild  members;  Eve- 
ning tours:  $1 1,  adults;  $10.  Winterthur  Guild  members;  $5.50, 
children  under  17;  and  $5,  children  of  Guild  members. 

Group  tours:  Discounts  for  groups  of  20  or  more  available. 

Payment:  Tours  must  be  prepaid.  American  Express,  MasterCard,  and 

VISA  accepted. 

Reservations:  For  tour  booking  and  information  call  (302)  888-4600  or  1 -800- 
448-3883  or  write:  Yuletide  Tours,  Winterthur  Ticket  and  Infor- 
mation Office,  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens,  Winterthur, 
DE  19735. 

Winterthur  is  located  on  Route  52,  six  miles  northwest  of  Wilming- 
ton, Delaware. 


Dates: 

Times: 


Admission: 


Location: 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Kathleen  K.  Meserve: 


Small  triumphs  won  by  individuals  op- 
erating on  small  budgets  seem  to  get  lost  in 
our  modern  society.  Scams  like  the  Iran 
arms  and  Wall  Street  insider  trading  scan- 
dals almost  obliterated  the  lovely  and  pure 
adventure  of  Voyager’s  nonstop  trip  around 
the  world,  and  time  has  washed  over  the 
triumph  of  Kathleen  K.  Meserve.  Because 
her  triumph  continues  to  be  one  and  contin- 
ues to  be  pretty  sensational,  it  is  worth 
looking  at  periodically. 

Kathleen  K.  Meserve  was  an  amateur 
hybridizer  with  little  horticultural  back- 
ground who  managed  to  produce  the  blue 
hollies,  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
versatile  evergreens  available. 

hollies  before  meserve 

To  appreciate  her  story,  you  must  know 
the  state  of  hollies  before  her  work.  Count- 
ing all  of  the  hollies,  both  evergreen  and 
deciduous,  with  both  red  berries  and  black, 
there  were  from  300  to  500  species.  The 
only  one  that  had  been  used 
extensively  for  foundation 
planting  was  Ilex  crenata 
‘Convexa,’  the  small-leafed 
holly  with  black  berries. 

Most  people  didn't  even 
think  of  I.  crenata  when  holly 
was  mentioned.  They  thought 
of  I.  opaca,  the  American 
holly.  It  was  indigenous  from 
Massachusets  to  Florida  and 
west  as  far  as  Missouri  and 
Texas.  It  was  one  of  nature’s 
loveliest  trees.  Great  masses 
of  it,  growing  wild,  were  vis- 
ible in  the  woods  along  high- 
ways in  New  Jersey  and  Dela- 
ware. At  Longwod  Gardens, 
near  the  Pennsylvania/Dela- 
ware line,  then  as  now  several 
large  American  hollies  stood 
on  the  south  terrace  of  the 
central  conservatory.  These 


The  Woman 
Who  Shook  the 
Holly  World 

(^)  by  Edwin  A.  Peeples 

Such  rooting  requires  a hothouse  ar- 
rangement to  allow  winter  work  and 
to  provide  control.  Meserve  met  this 
need  by  making  a Wardian  Case  for 
her  kitchen  window.  The  first  time  she 
managed  to  root  a cutting,  she  was  so 
excited  she  gave  a cocktail  party  to 
celebrate. 


trees,  more  than  30  feet  tall,  were  pruned 
high  enough  to  allow  benches  for  sitting 
under  their  dense  shade. 

A few  people  in  Zone  6,  which  contains 
southeastern  Pennsylvania,  could  grow 
English  holly,  /.  aquifolium.  North  of  Zone 
6,  most  of  the  northeast,  English  holly  could 
not  survive.  For  these  areas,  the  only  reli- 
able holly  that  looked  like  a holly  and  was 
evergreen  with  red  berries  was  /.  opaca. 

No  matter  how  lovely  /.  opaca  was,  for 
those  who  cherished  the  English  holly  I. 
opaca  did  not  entirely  satisfy.  It  grew  fast 
and  into  big  trees  or  bushes.  Its  leaves, 
though  needle-edged  and  holly  shaped,  were 
largely  flat  or  no  more  than  slightly  con- 
vex. They  were  not  the  narrow,  contorted 
leaves  of  English  holly.  More,  their  color 
tended  toward  brown-green  and  yellow 
green,  not  the  deep  blue  green  of  /.  aquifo- 
lium. And,  finally,  instead  of  deep  crimson 
berries,  /.  opaca  had  berries  that  were  more 
of  a vermilion. 

ancestral  memory 

Anything  difficult  to  grow 
is  rare  and  most  things  rare  are 
desirable,  but  the  yearning  for 
English  holly  may  have  been 
more  than  a craving  for  rarity. 
It  may  have  been  atavism,  too. 

/.  aquifolium  has  a long  and 
superstitious  history.  The  pa- 
gans of  Europe  in  the  distant 
past  brought  sprays  of  native 
holly  into  their  dwellings  so 
that  tiny,  fairy,  friendly  people 
of  the  forest  might  have  a ref- 
uge from  the  frigid  winter 
blasts.  Holly  was  used  in  pa- 
gan rites  from  Norway  to  the 
Mediterranean.  During  a festi- 
val, called  saturnalia,  in  dark 
December,  people  gave  each 
other  holly  branches  to  beto- 
ken friendship.  By  the  16th 
Century,  every  house,  church. 
5 continued 

o 

n 

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n 

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EL 
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a 

n 


Kay  Meserve 


11 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


12 


street  comer  and  market  cross  was  deco- 
rated with  holly.  And  all  of  this  holly  would 
have  been  /.  aquifolium. 

Most  of  our  original  east  coast  colo- 
nists, having  come  from  England  or  from 
English  influences,  nourished  a strong 
reverence  for  English  holly.  Although  some 
of  us,  with  great  care  and  in  a carefully 
maintained  mini-climate,  could  raise  this 
beautiful  holly  that  our  instincts  connected 
with  centuries  of  religious  mystery,  most 
of  us  could  not. 

Among  those  who  grew  impatient  with 
this  problem  was  Meserve.  She  did  not 
begin  by  being  impatient,  because  she  did 
not  begin  as  either  a botanist  or  a horticul- 
turist. So  long  as  she  and  her  financier 
husband,  F.  Leighton  Meserve,  lived  in 
New  York  City,  to  Meserve,  horticulture 
was  the  florist  at  the  comer.  Sensing,  how- 
ever, that  World  War  II  might  create  short- 
ages that  a farm  might  fill,  the  Meserves 
rented  a 10-acre  rural  establishment  at  Nis- 
sequoque.  Long  Island.  “Do  anything  with 
it  you  like,”  the  owner  said,  “except  bring  a 
cow  into  the  dining  room.” 

Soon  Meserve  was  growing,  canning 
and  preserving  every  vegetable  the  family 
ate.  Her  Victory  Garden,  as  such  gardens 
were  called,  was  interesting  as  education 
but  not  so  fascinating  that  she  couldn’t 
drop  it  with  great  relief  as  soon  as  the  war 
ended.  The  horticultural  bug  had  bitten  her 
enough,  however,  to  draw  her  to  a lecture 
on  hollies  soon  after  the  war. 

lecture  triggers  experiments 

It  had  never  occurred  to  her  that  there 
could  be  anything  interesting  about  hollies, 
save  as  a material  for  wreaths.  Certainly 
the  thought  of  cultivating  hollies  did  not 
quicken  the  pulse  of  horticulturists  the  way 
growing  irises  did  or  peonies  or  dahlias. 
Yet  that  lecture  stimulated  Meserve  to  join 
the  American  Holly  Society  and  to  look 
into  the  subject  of  hollies. 

What  a shame,  she  thought,  that  we  had 
no  equivalent  of  the  English  holly  that 
could  survive  our  winters.  And  that  there 
was  no  holly  dwarfed  enough  to  replace 


privet  or  box  as  foundation  planting  for 
rose  gardens.  None,  that  was,  except  /.  ere- 
nata. 

With  no  clear  idea  in  mind,  she  col- 
lected hollies  that  looked  promising  and 
studied  the  way  they  grew.  When  local 
nurseries  couldn't  supply  plants,  she  got 
them  from  Henry  Hohman,  a well-known 
hybridizer. 

There  are  two  ways  to  reproduce  shrubs 
like  holly.  You  can  plant  their  seeds,  or  you 
can  root  cuttings.  Because  flowers  are  vul- 
nerable to  random  pollination,  plants  from 


During  a festival,  called  saturnalia,  in 
dark  December,  people  gave  each  other 
holly  branches  to  betoken  friendship. 


seeds  are  likely  to  be  different  from  their 
parent.  But  rooted  cuttings,  asexual  repro- 
duction, always  come  true.  Such  rooting 
requires  a hothouse  arrangement  to  allow 
winter  work  and  to  provide  control . Meserve 
met  this  need  by  making  a Wardian  Case 
for  her  kitchen  window.  The  first  time  she 
managed  to  root  a cutting,  she  was  so  ex- 
cited she  gave  a cocktail  party  to  celebrate. 

Rooting  cuttings,  though,  was  the  easy 
part.  Cross  pollinating  ventured  into  the 
realm  of  endless  variables,  beginning  with 
the  fact  that  hollies,  being  dioecious,  bear 
male  and  female  blossoms  on  different 


plants.  Not  only  were  the  sexes  separate 
but  they  didn’t  bloom  at  the  same  time. 
Nonsynchronized  blooming  was  particu- 
larly likely  in  hollies  of  different  species. 
Even  when  the  cross  was  managed  by  col- 
lecting pollen  and  holding  it,  so  many 
genetic  recombinations  were  possible  that 
no  one  could  predict  the  outcome  of  any 
one  cross.  Finally,  some  crosses  were 
improbable,  if  not  impossible,  because 
different  hollies  had  different  chromosome 
numbers.  /.  aquifolium , with  40  chromo- 
somes, was  not  likely  to  cross  with  I.  opaca , 
which  had  only  36. 

It  was  not  surprising  that  a leading  uni- 
versity might  be  justified  in  spending  thou- 
sands on  holly  hybridizing  without  any 
startling  results  and  look  askance  at  a pro- 
gram like  Meserve’s,  which  had  a budget 
of  $15.00.  The  secret  was  that  holly  cross- 
ing was  a labor-intensive  activity,  and 
Meserve  supplied  all  of  her  labor  at  no 
charge. 

Endlessly  she  crossed  holly  in  her 
kitchen,  harvested  the  seeds,  germinated 
them  in  sphagnum  moss  and  planted  them 
in  an  outdoor  plot.  Hybridizing  was  slow 
going.  Hollies  took  almost  18  months  to 
germinate. 

Among  the  hollies  she  chose  for  hybrid- 
izing was  /.  rugosa , a small,  prostrate  shrub 
that  grew  on  the  mountains  of  northern 
Japan  and  looked  somewhat  like  a spread- 
ing euonymous.  She  chose  it  for  its  winter 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  by  Ed  Peeples 


Photo  Courtesy  Conard-Pyle  Co. 


'Blue  Princess’ 


hardiness  and  its  tendency  to  be  a runt. 

The  first  few  winters  that  Meserve  lined 
out  her  holly  plants  were  mild  winters. 
Everything  thrived.  Then  came  the  inevi- 
table hard  winter  with  sustained  low  tem- 
peratures below  zero  and  sudden  freezes 
and  thaws:  the  kind  of  weather  that  plays 
havoc  with  broad-leafed  evergreens.  When 
Meserve  looked  out  in  the  spring,  all  she 
could  see  was  brown,  brown,  brown.  Four 
or  five  years  of  hard  work  down  the  drain. 
Hopelessly  she  plodded  through  the  ruins. 
And  stopped.  Was  it  possible?  Did  she  see 
some  green  here  and  there? 

the  survivor 

Yes  she  did!  The  holly  that  survived 
was  a rugosa  cross.  But  what  was  it?  What 
did  she  have?  She  had,  as  it  turned  out, 
males  and  females  of  a holly  that  tended  to 
be  dwarf,  looked  like  English  holly  but  was 
hardy  to  very  low  temperatures.  The  cross 
was  I.  aquifolium  with  /.  rugosa.  If  the 
cross  could  be  kept  true,  these  could  be 
very  important  hollies. 

Meserve  took  the  surviving  plants 
through  a rigorous  program  of  asexual 
reproduction.  They  did  keep  true.  She 
named  these  hollies  ’Blue  Boy’  and  ‘Blue 
Girl,’  patented  them  and,  through  Jackson 
and  Perkins,  introduced  them  in  1964.  The 
Arnold  Arboretum  designated  these  hol- 
lies as  a new  botanical  species  and  named  it 
meserveae  after  its  discoverer.  All  further 


crosses  were  called  Ilex  x meserveae. 

After  Charles  Perkins,  the  Jackson  and 
Perkins  partner  who  had  bought  the  rights 
to  the  hollies,  died  Meserve  moved  her 
patent  and  the  management  of  her  hollies 
to  Conard-Pyle  of  West  Grove,  Pennsylva- 
nia. With  their  encouragement,  she  contin- 
ued with  a parade  of  new  hollies.  ‘Blue 
Prince,’  introduced  in  1972,  was  truly  or- 
namental and  grew  to  15  ft.  ‘Blue  Prin- 
cess,’ which  followed  in  1973,  was  a 12  to 
15  ft.  mate  for  ‘Blue  Prince.’  Finally,  in 
that  same  year.  Meserve  achieved  in  ‘Blue 
Angel’  one  of  the  hollies  that  had  been  her 
goal.  ‘Blue  Angel’  grew  no  higher  than  six 
to  eight  feet,  had  foliage  like  a miniature 
English  holly,  was  hardy  to  -20°F  and  pro- 
vided a wonderful  foundation  planting. 
‘Blue  Maid,’  introduced  in  1979,  was  the 
largest  of  the  blue  hollies.  It  grew  higher 
than  15  feet.  ‘Blue  Stallion,’  a male  with 
smooth  leaves,  bloomed  all  season  and 
insured  good  pollination  for  all  female  hol- 
lies. 

My  wife  and  I have  bought  the  blue 
hollies  steadily  since  1972.  We  have  a 
‘Blue  Boy,’  about  six  ‘Blue  Girl,’  a 'Blue 
Maid’  andeight  ‘Blue  Princess.’  The  single 
male  seems  to  provide  enough  pollen  for 
all,  as  all  are  loaded  with  berries.  We  have 
planted  them  as  Conard-Pyle  recommends: 
in  holes  with  plenty  of  peat  moss  mixed 
with  as  rich  soil  as  we  can  find.  To  give 
them  the  steady  acidity  they  like,  we  mulch 


them  regularly  with  ground  oak  leaves.  All 
of  our  hollies  are  in  full  sun  or  semi-shade, 
and  all  are  flourishing. 

Although  the  blue  hollies  grow  faster 
than  box,  they  are  still  slow  growers.  They 
tend  to  grow  thick  more  rapidly  than  tall. 
Our  oldest  ‘Blue  Girl,’  now  about  14  years 
old,  is  five  feet  high  and  five  feet  through. 
This  reflects  its  /.  rugosa  ancestor,  which 
tended  to  be  a low,  spreading  plant.  The 
spreading  gives  us  a sensational  founda- 
tion planting,  and  the  denseness  allows  us 
to  cut  plenty  of  Christmas  holly  without 
changing  the  looks  of  our  plants:  holly  with 
deep,  blue-green,  contorted  leaves  and 
blood  red  berries. 

What  of  K.  Meserve?  After  developing 
‘China  Boy’  and  ‘China  Girl,’  hollies  based 
on  /.  cornuta  crosses  with  smooth  leaves 
like  the  burford,  she  retired  to  Florida  and 
gave  up  hybridizing. 

She  may  be  gone  from  this  area  but  the 
world  of  hollies  will  never  be  the  same  as  it 
was  before  Kathleen  Meserve  took  it  in 
hand. 

Robert  H.  Nichols,  license  manager  for 
Conard-Pyle,  says  they  can’t  keep  up  with 
the  demand  for  the  blue  hollies;  the  de- 
mand has  doubled  in  the  last  five  years  and 
he  expects  it  will  double  again  in  the  next 
five. 


SOURCES 

The  Conard-Pyle  Co..  West  Grove.  PA  1 9390 
owns  all  of  the  Meserve  patents  and  grows 
and  supplies  all  of  the  blue  hollies,  but  not 
directly.  S.B.  Hutton,  of  Conard-Pyle,  says 
blue  hollies  are  carried  by  most  major  garden 
outlets  in  all  areas  where  they  will  grow. 

Mail  order  sales  available  through  Wayside 
Gardens,  Hodges,  SC,  29695-0001. 


• 

Edwin  A.  Peeples,  author  of  A Professional 
Storywriter’ s Handbook,  and  of  the  PHS  15 
year  history.  Summary  for  a Sesqui,  writes  fre- 
quently for  Green  Scene  and  other  magazines. 
He  has  just  completed  a new  book.  An  Inquisi- 
tive Eye.  adventures  in  country  living. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


BRIGHTEN  THE  WINTER  LANDSCAPE 
WITH  DECIDUOUS  HOLLIES 


. ■ by  Andrew  Bunting 


Ilex  ‘Sparkleberry’ 
part  of  the  Frorer 
Holly  Collection, 
Scott  Arboretum 
of  Swarthmore 
college 

Photo  by  Tim  Bolan(l  . 


When  winter  winds  sweep  away 
the  last  leaves  of  fall,  and  the 
first  frost  shatters  the  last  flow- 
ers of  Japanese  anemones,  asters,  and  mums 
most  gardeners  retreat  to  thumb  through 
seed  catalogs,  awaiting  the  first  snowdrops 
and  winter  aconite  of  spring.  Yet  interest  in 
the  garden  can  be  extended  through  the 
winter  months  with  the  deciduous  hollies. 
The  deciduous  hollies  explode  with  an  abun- 
dance of  red  to  orange  waxy  berries,  clus- 
tered around  all  available  spaces  on  their 
naked  branches,  often  accented  by  a fresh 
layer  of  snow. 

The  deciduous  hollies  are  part  of  the 
genus  Ilex.  They  are  related  to  the  more 
common  evergreen  hollies,  such  as  the 
American  holly  (Ilex  opaca),  and  the  Eng- 
lish holly  (Ilex  aquifolium),  but  their  leaves 
are  thinner,  spineless,  and  deciduous. 
Among  the  deciduous  hollies,  a number  of 
species  are  important  ornamentally,  includ- 
ing the  common  winterberry  (Ilex  verticil- 
lata ),  possumhaw  (Ilex  decidua),  and  the 
finetooth  holly  (Ilex  serrata). 

the  most  attractive  deciduous  hollies 
Among  the  most  attractive  deciduous 
hollies  are  cultivars  of  Ilex  verticillata  and 
hybrids  of  /.  verticillata  and  I.  serrata.  This 
cross  combines  the  orange  to  red  larger 
berries  of  I.  verticillata  with  the  smaller, 
more  abundant,  dark  red  berries  of  I.  ser- 
rata to  produce  outstanding  heavy  fruiting 
selections.  These  cultivars  and  hybrids  are 
extremely  adaptable  plants.  In  nature,  they 
grow  in  low-lying  wetland  areas,  actually 
sustaining  periods  of  time  in  standing  wa- 
ter, and  they  are  versatile  enough  to  grow 
and  produce  ample  fruits  on  a very  hot  and 
dry  ornamental  grass  bank  at  the  Scott 
Arboretum  of  Swarthmore  College,  in 
Swarthmore,  Pa.  Cold  hardiness  is  another 
virtue  of  these  plants.  Most  hollies  are  only 
hardy  to  Zone  5 (-10  to  -20  F),  but  most  of 
these  deciduous  hollies  are  hardy  to  Zone  3 
(-30  to  -40  F USDA  hardiness  zone  rat- 
ings). Deciduous  hollies  are  relatively  fast 
growing  shrubs.  They  expand  by  stolonif- 
erous  growth  (underground  stems).  As  they 
mature  they  often  form  thickets  requiring 
removal  of  old  stems  to  rejuvenate  the 
shrub. 

For  optimal  growth,  plant  deciduous 
hollies  in  partial  shade  with  a soil  high  in 
organic  matter  and  a pH  of  4.5  to  6.  These 

the  green  scene  / november  1988 


overlooked,  underplayed  plants  are  not 
subject  to  any  serious  pest  or  disease  prob- 
lems. 

combining  with  other  plants 

Once  the  proper  growing  environment 
has  been  selected,  the  gardener  can  choose 
one  of  several  effective  ways  to  display 
deciduous  hollies.  In  a native  garden,  the 
combination  of  the  red  berries  of  Ilex  verti- 
-cillata  and  the  bright  yellow  fall  blossoms 


Ilex  decidua  ‘Byer’s  Golden’ 


of  the  common  witch  hazel  (Hamamelis 
virginiana)  make  a dramatic  combination. 
Or  an  intertwining  espalier  of  the  brilliant 
dark  red  berries  of  /.  x ‘Sparkleberry’  ( ser- 
rata x verticillata)  with  the  fragrant,  sulfur 
yellow  flowers  of  Hamamelis  mollis  ‘Pal- 
lida’ against  an  old  stone  building  would 
be  equally  striking.  Beautiful  fall  color 
combinations  are  obtained  when  using 
deciduous  hollies  with  other  plants  with 
ornamental  berries,  such  as  sapphire  berry 
(Symplocos paniculata),  beautyberry  (Cal- 
licarpa  dichotoma  or  japonica),  and  the 
? purple  chokeberry  (Aronia prunifolia).  Ev- 
= ergreens  like  Chamaecyparis , Thuja  and 
T,  Ilex  glabra  provide  an  effective  dark  green 
n background  for  setting  off  the  berries  of 
deciduous  hollies.  Planted  along  ponds  or 
> streambanks  the  reflections  of  berry-laden 
9 hollies  create  a picturesque  scene. 

dark  red  fruit 

In  selecting  deciduous  hollies,  my  fa- 
vorites are  any  of  the  dark  red,  heavy  fruit- 
ing selections  such  as  the  outstanding  7.  x 
‘Sparkleberry.’  Its  branches  are  covered 
with  glossy  dark  red  berries  that  contrast 
nicely  with  its  dark  green  foliage  as  the 
berries  turn  from  green  to  red  in  Septem- 
ber. ‘Sparkleberry’  has  an  effective  display 
well  into  March,  which  is  as  long,  if  not 
longer,  than  most  deciduous  holly  culti- 
vars. Because  of  its  merits,  this  holly  has 
received  the  1988  Styer  Award  of  Garden 
Merit  from  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural 
Society. 

I.  verticillata  ‘Winter  Red’  is  another 
excellent,  dark  red  fruiting  cultivar.  Com- 
pared to  most  other  I.  verticillata  and  I. 
serrata  x verticillata  selections  that  reach 
up  to  12  feet,  ‘Winter  Red’  may  be  more 
suitable  for  the  smaller  garden  since  it 
reaches  only  six  to  eight  feet.  An  even 
smaller  deciduous  holly,  only  reaching  three 
feet,  with  large  red  berries  is  I.  verticillata 
‘Red  Sprite’  (syn.  ‘Nana’ ).  At  the  Scott  Ar- 
boretum, we  have  planted  several  plants  of 
‘Red  Sprite'  at  the  base  of  the  white-barked 
Betula  pendula.  The  red  to  white  contrast  is 
quite  showy  in  what  would  otherwise  be  a 
rather  gray  winter  landscape.  Ilex  x ‘Har- 
vest Red'  is  a good  bright  red,  long  lasting, 
medium-sized  berry  cultivar.  I.  verticillata 
‘Tiasquam’  is  a large  red-berrried  selec- 
tion, which  is  accentuated  in  September  by 
its  very  dark  green  leaves.  A good  heavy 

continued 


15 


fruiting,  upright  form  is  I.  verticillata  ‘Ca- 
capon.’  For  the  smallest,  darkest  red  ber- 
ries, of  all  the  deciduous  hollies,  /.  serrata 
is  the  best  choice.  Perhaps,  the  heaviest  and 
largest  fruiting  of  the  true  reds  is  I.  verticil- 
lata ‘Shaver.’  For  outstanding  stem 
qualities,  I.  decidua  ‘Warren’s  Red’  has 
arching  silver  stems,  laden  with  glossy  red 
fruits. 

orange  red  fruit 

If  you  don’t  like  the  true  reds,  a number 
of  deciduous  hollies  with  orange-red  fruit 
might  suit  your  garden.  /.  verticillata  ‘Ear- 
libright’  is  a very  large  fruiting  selection 
with  1/2  inch  diameter  fruits,  but  often 
sparse  fruiting.  /.  verticillata  ‘Bright  Hori- 
zon’ is  a large-berried,  abundant  fruiting 
form,  which  contrasts  well  with  its  dark 
green  leaves.  /.  verticillata  ‘Fairfax’  is  a 
heavy  fruiter  with  purple  fall  foliage.  /. 
verticillata  ‘Afterglow’  is  a small  form 
with  glossy  leaves,  reaching  three  to  six 
feet.  /.  decidua  ‘Sundance’  is  a tall,  up  to 
15  foot,  rather  willowy,  nearly  weeping. 


abundant  orange-red  cultivar.  /.  verticil- 
lata ‘Aurantiaca’  was  selected  for  its  true 
orange  colored  berries.  Although  the  or- 
ange-red forms  are  not  as  vibrant  as  the  true 
red  forms,  these  selections  do  add  an  un- 
usual color  to  the  winter  garden. 

If  the  traditional  red  and  orange-red 
fruited  types  don 't  suit  your  winter  garden, 
other  color  forms  of  deciduous  hollies  are 
available.  Yellow-fruited  cultivars  include, 
/.  decidua  ‘Byers  Golden,’  I.  serrata  ‘Xan- 
thocarpa’  and  /.  verticillata  ‘Xanthocarpa.’ 
/.  serrata  ‘Leucocarpa’  is  a rarely  seen 
white-fruited  cultivar. 

pollination 

All  hollies  are  dioecious,  which  means 
that  plants  bear  either  male  or  female  flow- 
ers. Only  female  plants  will  produce  fruit, 
but  for  fruiting  to  occur  there  must  be  a 
male  in  the  vicinity  (within  several  blocks 
of  the  female  holly).  For  the  hybrids  result- 
ing from  the  crosses  of  /.  serrata  and  /.  ver- 
ticillata either  /.  x ‘Apollo’  or  /.  x ‘Raritan 
Chief  are  good  pollinators.  For  selections 


of  /.  decidua  and  I.  serrata  unnamed  males 
of  each  of  these  species  can  be  used  for  pol- 
lination. For  Ilex  verticillata  and  its  culti- 
vars, two  outstanding  male  cultivars  exist. 
/.  verticillata  ‘Quansoo’  sets  heavy  amounts 
of  pollen,  as  does  /.  verticillata  ‘Jackson.’ 
‘Jackson’  has  purple  fall  foliage  making  it 
a more  desirable  choice.  Also,  males  of  /. 
opaca  are  capable  of  pollinating  cultivars 
of  /.  verticillata. 

Deciduous  hollies  are  easiest  to  propa- 
gate from  cuttings.  Softwood  cuttings,  four 
to  five  inches  long,  taken  from  June  through 
July,  treated  with  Hormodin#3  orRootone, 
will  root  under  mist  in  a peat/perlite  mix  in 
six  to  eight  weeks.  Rooting  percentages 
will  vary  from  75  to  100  percent.  Propaga- 
tion from  seed  is  impractical,  with  germi- 
nation taking  up  to  a year,  and  even  then, 
percentages  may  be  low. 

These  ripe,  scarlet  and  orange  berries  of 
deciduous  hollies  mark  the  end  of  the  grow- 
ing season,  a lure  to  the  garden  to  enjoy  a 
winter  landscape  ablaze  with  a different 
color  and  texture. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Left,  Ilex  verticillata 
Tiasquam.'  a Polly  Hill 
introduction,  part  of  the  Frorer 
Holly  Collection. 

Right,  the  low  red  berried  Ilex 
verticillata  ‘Fairfax’  stands  in 
the  foreground  against  a 20  ft. 
high  Ilex  opaca  in  the  Frorer 
Holly  Collection. 

Below,  Ilex  serrata  ‘Leucocarpa’ 


i 


SOURCES 

Carroll  Gardens 
P.O.  Box  310 
444  East  Main  St. 

Westminster,  MD  21157 
(301)  848-5422 

Cat.  $2,  deductible  from  1st  order 

Foxborough  Nursery 
3611  Miller  Rd. 

Street,  MD  21154 
(301)  836-7023 

Cat.  $1,  deductible  from  1st  order 

Woodlander’s  Inc. 

1 128  Colleton  Ave. 

Aiken,  SC  29801 
(803)  648-7522 

Cat.:  Long  SASE,  with  two  1st  Class  Stamps 
$15  minimum  order 


• 

Andrew  Bunting  is  in  charge  of  plant  records 
and  propagation  at  Scott  Arboretum.  He  has 
written  and  lectured  about  trees  and  shrubs  and 
has  a keen  interest  in  perennials  as  well.  He  has 
written  for  Hybrid , the  newsletter  for  the  Scott 
Arboretum  and  American  Nurseryman  and  The 
Public  Garden. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


varsity  gardeners 


&)  by  Anne  S.  Cunningham 


1 


■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■I 


18 


"I  quit.”  The  cry  rises  above  the  cacoph- 
ony ricocheting  through  the  crowded  green- 
house. 

The  visitor  swivels  to  see  where  the  cry 
came  from  and  spots  a young  woman  star- 
ing at  three  dried  flowers  fallen  before  her. 
She  hangs  her  head  and  sighs  deeply  with 
frustration. 

“Wait.”  the  teacher  whispers  with  gentle 
encouragement,  “You  can  do  it.  Come  on, 
try  again."  The  student  returns  to  work,  and 
after  two  more  tries  puts  dried  flowers  in  a 
bunch  without  breaking  the  stems. 

“Look  at  mine,”  a young  man  calls,  en- 
ergetically waving  several  purple  flowers 
at  the  teacher.  Another  chant,  “Come  see 
what  I made,”  breaks  in  on  his  demand.  A 
young  woman,  in  her  early  30s,  dressed  in 
a pink  pastel  dress,  white  socks  and  shiny 
patent  leather  shoes,  beckons  the  visitor, 
obviously  proud  of  her  bunch  of  dried  flow- 
ers. 

“Even  we  are  amazed  at  how  well  the 
gardening  program  has  worked,”  says  Joy 
Pott,  Adult  Director  at  The  Melmark  Home. 
"We've  provided  an  abundance  of  real  work 
and  real  methods  to  achieve  success.  That’s 
what’s  usually  unavailable  to  retarded 
people.  But  gardening  is  so  repetitive,  the 
work  is  never  done.” 

Melmark  Home,  in  Berwyn,  Pennsylva- 
nia, has  188  retarded  residents,  most  with 
Down  Syndrome.  Mary’s  story  is  indica- 
tive of  Melmark’s  unique  success  with  the 
individual  greenhouse  and  garden  students. 

Mary  was  an  unusually  difficult  Down 
Syndrome  child.  A report  written  a few 
years  ago  read,  “Mary  (not  her  real  name) 
daydreams  in  class,  and  when  she  is  called 
upon  in  this  state  of  being,  her  behavior  is 
marked  by  incoherent  babblings,  grunts, 
and  rocking.  She  attends  to  a lesson  only 
when  threatened  that  her  educational  activ- 
ity time  will  be  taken  away  from  her. 

“She  is  particularly  fond  of  a jigsaw 
puzzle  which  she  continually  retrieves  from 
the  closet  during  her  free  time.  She  does 
not  attempt  to  put  the  puzzle  pieces  to- 
gether, she  merely  takes  one  piece  at  a time 


out  of  one  lid  and  puts  it  into  the  other  and 
vice  versa.  Any  attempt  on  the  part  of  a 
staff  member  to  remove  Mary  from  this 
activity  to  something  else  results  in  a tan- 
trum characterized  by  yelling,  screaming 
sobs,  slamming  doors,  and  at  times  striking 
other  children  and  staff.. ..Mary  is  the  class 
isolate.  She  never  seeks  companionship 
from  her  peers,  nor  does  she  seem  particu- 
larly enthused  when  staff  members  seek 
her  company.” 

But  the  day  she  turned  21,  Mary  bellig- 
erently sat  down  on  the  bench  in  front  of 
the  greenhouse  and  announced  she  was 
ready  to  join  the  adult  gardening  program. 
She  hadn’t  worked  in  the  greenhouse  be- 
fore, but  she  knew  that's  where  people 
were  busy  and  had  things  to  do,  and  she 
was  determined  to  become  part  of  it.  The 
staff  recognized  a special  characteristic  in 
her  compulsive  play  with  puzzle  pieces  — 
repetition  and  having  to  be  busy  — and 
they  were  eager  to  let  her  try.  They  took  her 
out  to  the  garden  and  taught  her  how  to 
harvest  flowers  for  drying. 

The  first  flower  Mary  focused  on  was 
blue  sage.  She  loved  the  plant  and  was 
allowed  to  harvest  it  alone.  She  learned  to 
cut  the  stems  carefully,  strip  the  lower 
leaves  and  bunch  the  flowers  together, 
securing  them  with  a rubber  band  so  they 
could  be  hung  for  drying.  She  developed 
the  confidence  of  “I  know  where  to  go  in 
the  garden,  and  I know  how  to  do  it.”  Mary 
became  part  of  the  group  and  the  pride  that 
followed  was  exceeded  only  by  her  desire 
to  be  busy  with  flowers  all  day,  every  day. 

The  rubber  band  trick  was  the  result  of 
frustration  (both  students’  and  teachers’) 
after  trying  to  tie  cut  flowers  in  bunches  for 
drying.  The  short  stubby  fingers  of  Down 
Syndrome  made  tying  a difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  task.  So  the  staff  adapted  the 
process  to  help  student  achieve  success  by 
teaching  them  how  to  secure  the  bunches 
with  rubber  bands.  Then,  as  the  stems  dry 
out,  the  flowers  hung  upside  down  don't 
fall  from  the  bunch,  the  rubber  bands  tighten 
and  hold  the  stems  snugly  together. 


Melmark  gardeners  approach  each  task  with 
enthusiasm  and  intense  concentration.  At  harvest 
time,  every  flower  stalk  is  cut  to  a precise  length 
before  it’s  hung  up  in  the  drying  shed. 


continued 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Melmark  Home , an  educational  and  residential  community  of  mentally  and  physically 
handicapped  persons  in  Berwyn , proves  “life  gets  better  and  better  when  you  have 
something  to  do  each  and  every  day  that  is  stimulating  and  interesting.  ” 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Cooperation  and  joy  in  achievement  extend 
beyond  the  greenhouse,  to  Melmark's 
orchard,  the  source  of  cider,  applesauce  and 
frequent  snacks. 


Photo  by  Fran  Kinney 


varsity  gardeners 


While  some  gardeners  might  wilt  when  faced  with  the  massive  task  of  drying  thousands  of  flowers, 
these  gardeners  approach  one  flower  at  a time,  determined  to  make  it  the  best  in  the  bunch. 


no  master  plan 

The  gardening  program  appears  bril- 
liantly simple  now,  but  at  the  beginning,  no 
one  was  quite  sure  how  it  was  going  to  take 
shape  or  how  much  the  students  could  learn. 

About  10  years  ago,  an  unused  green- 
house on  the  Melmark  property  was  reno- 
vated into  a ‘Creative  Workshop.'  A few 
people  donated  scraggly  spider  plants  to 
occupy  the  space,  but  that  was  about  all 
that  happened.  Then  Gwynne  Ormsby,  a 
recent  graduate  of  the  Bames  Arboretum, 
quietly  volunteered  to  help  the  students 
learn  to  grow  plants.  The  first  day,  she 
arrived  with  her  complete  cactus  collec- 
tion, explaining  that  cactus  would  be  just 
right  because  “they’re  non-neurotic,  slow 
growing  and  tolerant  of  abuse  and  neglect.” 
The  next  week  she  brought  a few  dried 
straw  flowers  from  home  for  the  students 
to  make  things.  Adult  director  Joy  Pott 
asked  if  they  could  grow  them  at  Melmark 
or  if  it  would  be  too  difficult.  “Let's  give  it 
a go,”  replied  Gwynne,  and  the  program 
started. 

Their  early  garden  grew  mostly  weeds 


and  tender  shoots  consumed  by  rabbits,  but 
each  year  the  gardeners  and  plants  im- 
proved. Gwynne’s  horticultural  knowledge, 
quiet  encouragement  and  compassionate 
nature  became  the  catalyst  for  a new  way  of 
life  at  Melmark.  Today  more  than  140 
adults  and  young  people  work  in  the  gar- 
den program,  led  by  Gwynne,  Joy  Pott  and 
Lane  Travis  working  full  time,  aided  by 
part-time  volunteers. 

hand  tools,  hand-watering 

Using  only  hand  tools  and  hand-water- 
ing every  plant,  Melmark  residents  today 
cultivate  a huge  garden  that  measures  66 
by  150  feet.  Their  plant  list  reads  like  a 
catalog,  with  more  than  40  different  flow- 
ers. They  grow  stately  perennials  and  col- 
orful annuals  from  seed,  individually  har- 
vest and  dry  each  flower,  then  make  hun- 
dreds of  lovely  dried  arrangements,  wreaths 
and  decorations.  From  seed  to  finished 
product,  each  step  has  been  adapted  to 
guarantee  success.  They  even  hold  the  dried 
flowers  along  a ruler  when  they're  cutting, 
to  make  sure  the  stems  are  the  right  length. 


In  the  fall,  the  students  gather  moun- 
tains of  leaves  from  the  Melmark  property 
and  spread  a thick  blanket  of  leaf  mulch 
over  the  garden  for  winter.  When  spring 
comes,  Gwynne  reminds  the  gardeners 
where  the  rows  should  be,  then  it's  up  to 
them  to  get  down  on  their  knees  and  scrape 
the  heavy  leaf  mulch  aside,  making  just 
enough  room  for  a row  of  seeds  or  for 
young  plants  they’ve  raised  from  seeds  in 
the  greenhouse.  The  remaining  mulch  acts 
as  a visual  marker,  delineating  space  be-  *. 
tween  rows  of  seeds.  The  mulch  discour- 
ages weeds  and  therefore  helps  the  stu- 
dents, for  even  the  most  experienced  gar- 
deners have  trouble  discerning  new  flower 
shoots  and  young  plants  from  emerging 
weeds.  Because  the  giant  garden  is  hand- 
watered,  the  mulch  also  is  important  for  its 
water-retaining  value. 

With  a decade  of  experience  behind 
them,  the  teachers  now  watch  for  those 
tenancious  qualities  needed  to  be  a good 
gardener.  Lower  School  children  who  dis- 
play interest  and  ability  garden  each  week, 
as  a pre-vocational  activity.  Combined  with 
small  landscaping  tasks  throughout  the 
property,  they  learn  good  work  habits  and 
watch  ‘their’  plants  flourish. 

At  first  most  Down  Syndrome  children 
are  squeamish,  hesitant  to  get  down  and 
mess  around  in  dirt.  The  hygiene  training 
they’ve  learned  so  well  contradicts  the  idea 
of  deliberately  putting  their  hands  in  dirt 
and  getting  their  clothes  muddy.  Just  like 
all  beginning  young  gardeners,  they  struggle 
to  dig  a straight  row,  and  they  require 
continual  prompting  with  verbal  cues  and 
gestures.  The  educational  word  is  ‘mod- 
elling,’ but  it  is  clearly  just  as  hard  work  for 
the  teachers  as  it  is  for  the  students. 

Eventually,  often  years  later,  the  tal- 
ented gardeners  emerge  from  the  group. 

They  have  patience  for  detailed  labor,  stam- 
ina to  stay  outside  and  sweat  until  a teacher 
says  the  job  is  done,  and  they  have  well- 
deserved  pride  in  their  outstanding  accom- 
plishments. These  varsity  gardeners  join 
Gwynne's  group  as  full  time  workers.  They 
work  together  each  morning  in  the  garden 
or  in  the  plant  rooms,  eat  lunch  together  in 
the  workroom  adjacent  to  the  greenhouse, 
then  continue  to  work  in  the  afternoon, 
with  scheduled  breaks  for  music  and  other 
varied  activities.  They  look  forward  to  field 
trips,  such  as  the  annual  trek  to  harvest 

the  green  scene  / november  1988 


yarrow  from  fields  in  New  Jersey,  working 
all  day  stripping  and  putting  rubber  bands 
around  bunches  to  hang  in  the  bus  rigged 
with  coat  hangers  for  drying  hooks. 

“They  love  gardening.  They  feel  confi- 
dent,” says  Joy  Pott.  “They  know  how  and 
are  happy  to  do  it  over  and  over  again.  At 
the  beginning  we  did  everything  hand  over 
hand,  but  now  we  organize,  plan  their  ac- 
tivities and  constantly  encourage  them.  Now 
they  know  what  they're  doing.  We  can  be 
their  coach  and  cheerleader.  We  initiate 
and  enable  by  matching  their  tasks  with 
their  abilities.  They  can’t  initiate  or  plan, 
but  they  work  so  well  when  given  direc- 
tion.” 

Today  Mary  is  a model  gardener  with 
more  flower  vocabulary  than  almost  any 
other  participant.  She  knows  and  readily 
identifies  Gomphrena , Celosia  and  dozens 
of  other  plants  in  addition  to  her  favorite 
blue  sage.  One  day  she  made  up  her  mind 
to  do  a dried  arrangement  in  a basket,  went 
over  and  did  it.  The  result  was  helter-skel- 
ter, but  the  desire  was  there.  Joy  and 
Gwynne  showed  her  how  to  make  the  small 
bunches  of  flowers  that  go  into  creating  a 
larger  basket  of  flowers.  They  showed  her 
how  the  completed  baskets  and  wreaths 
serve  as  patterns  for  future  dried  arrange- 
ments. Mary  picked  it  up  quickly,  repeat- 
ing each  task  over  and  over  until  the  job 
was  done. 

Occasionally  the  old  rigid  Mary 
emerges,  and  her  teachers  step  back  in 
amazement  at  how  much  they’ve  accom- 
plished. At  first  they  couldn't  get  her  to 
shift  from  task  to  task,  because  she  had  no 
repertoire  of  activities,  only  ‘puzzle  pieces,’ 
so  Mary  was  afraid  they  were  taking  her 
new  activity  away.  When  she  worked  with 
dried  flowers  and  they  said  it  was  time  to 
go  to  the  garden,  she  wouldn't  budge.  Now 
she  knows  in  order  to  make  dried  flower  ar- 
rangements she  has  to  work  in  the  garden 
to  get  the  flowers. 

Once  a gardening  group  has  gone 
through  a whole  year,  they  realize  the  rea- 
sons for  getting  hot  and  dirty.  Before  a 
growing  season  is  completed,  they  can't 
intellectualize  the  process;  they  have  to 
physically  work  in  the  garden  and  see  the 
seed-to-flower-to-dried  arrangement  cycle 
before  they  fully  understand  what  they  are 
doing  and  why  they  have  to  do  it  a certain 
way.  Some  students  have  to  see  it  several 


years  in  a row  to  comprehend. 

Today  the  gardening  program  works  so 
well,  it  is  difficult  to  tell  if  the  students  or 
the  teachers  are  more  filled  with  richly  de- 
served pride.  A huge  drying  shed  is  packed 
each  fall  with  enough  meticulously  cut  and 
hung  flowers  to  providef'materials  for  hun- 
dreds of  dried  flower  crafts.  November’s 
Fall  Art  Show  features  a magnificent  dis- 
play of  colorful,  flower-filled  baskets, 
wreaths  and  arrangements. 

A new  Adult  Program  Center  is  under 
construction,  centered  entirely  around  the 
flowers  and  the  gardening  program.  It  will 
have  a larger  greenhouse,  flower  work- 
shop, and  tea  room  so  families  and  guests 
can  enjoy  tea  or  a small  lunch  with  their 
visit.  Downstairs  will  be  wood  and  ceramic 
workshops  where  residents  can  continue  to 
make  crafts  that  enhance  the  horticulture 
program  — clay  pebble  pots  become  cache 
pots,  carefully  stenciled  wooden  ducks  and 
geese  become  garden  ornaments.  Flower 
vases  for  their  flowers  on  the  cafe  tables 
and  place  mats  created  in  the  weaving 
workshop  downstairs  tie  in  with  the  horti- 


culture upstairs. 

Each  Friday  is  Open-House  day  when 
people  visit  to  see  the  garden,  the  students 
at  work,  their  dried  flowers  and  to  see  how 
they  do  it.  And  there's  no  doubt  visitors  can 
learn  a trick  or  two  from  a visit  to  Melmark. 
The  student  are  so  careful  with  their  flow- 
ers, that  even  the  tiniest  speck  of  bright, 
dried  flower  on  the  floor  is  swept  up  with 
loving  care,  delicately  dropped  into  a glass 
bubble,  then  tied  with  ribbon  to  become  a 
holiday  ornament. 

“We’ve  given  them  real  tasks  that  they 
enjoy  all  year  around.  That’s  why  this  pro- 
gram works  so  well,”  says  adult  director 
Pott.  “Retarded  means  slow,  it  doesn't  mean 
can't.  It  only  becomes  ‘can't’  when  no- 
body is  willing  to  take  the  time.” 

• 

Anne  S.  Cunningham  is  co-author  of  Philadel- 
phia with  Children,  Starhill  Press.  Washington, 
D.C.,  September  1 988  ($8.95).  She  is  a frequent 
contributor  to  Green  Scene  and  has  written  about 
gardening  for  the  Philadelphia  Inquirer  and 
several  national  magazines. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  by  Joe  Cocozza 


i 

W mm  ^ 0 ' 

\ 

> 


' 

\ 


Birds  come  earlier  each  year  to  my  yel- 
low crab  tree.  They  come  to  feast  on  its 
apples  that  I always  want  to  call  berries. 
The  frozen  fruit  by  now  has  turned  a rich 
rusty  orange.  The  apples  are  small,  but  they 
make  up  for  a lack  of  size  with  plenty.  Most 
crab  apple  cultivars  are  biennial  bearers. 
My  tree  is  showy  every  year,  and  festoons 
of  bright  apples  hold  on  almost  until  the 
next  flowering.  At  least  they  did  before 
birds  developed  a taste  for  them. 

The  first  were  robins,  early  arrivals  find- 
ing little  to  eat  in  a still  wintry  landscape. 
After  they  stripped  the  multiflora  roses  of 
what  hips  the  mockingbirds  missed,  the 
flock  gravitated  to  the  bountiful  larder  of 
my  crab  tree.  Their  appearance  each  year 
signifies  lengthening  days,  first  sweet  aro- 
mas of  sun  warmed  earth — and  sometimes 
a whopping  blizzard.  Or  maybe  just  a 
powder  of  flakes  softly  fallen  overnight. 

The  view  is  especially  fine  from  my  bed- 
room window.  I planted  the  homegrown 
crab  apple  seedling  a few  yards  from  the 
house,  and  now  I look  out  into  its  mature 
topmost  branches.  On  mornings  when  I 
think  of  it  I take  a casual  census.  One  snowy 
sunrise  a lively  flock  of  striped  finches  fed 
two  by  two,  the  males  gorgeous  in  their  rosy 
hue,  the  females  brightly  stripped  like  extra 
showy  song  sparrows.  On  other  days  there 
have  been  cedar  waxwings,  bluejays,  cardi- 
nals, mockingbirds,  and  woodpeckers. 

I seldom  have  time  to  linger  with  bin- 
oculars, so  I’m  not  sure  which  birds  eat  the 
frozen  apples  and  which  are  just  searching 
for  hibernating  insects.  Some  visitors  covet 
the  apple  seeds  since  the  ground  beneath  is 
littered  with  pieces  of  spongy  pulp.  Will 
there  be  any  apples  left  for  spring  robins 


this  year? 

My  gardener’s  tale  of  seeds  and  trees 
really  starts  over  two  decades  ago  on  a 
warm  fall  day  at  the  Philadelphia  Zoo.  The 
crab  apple  trees  ornamenting  the  grounds 
were  at  their  best  that  afternoon,  overhang- 
ing the  walk  in  great  canopies,  fountains  of 
shiny  fruit.  The  variety  of  color  and  size 
astonished  me.  I found  it  impossible  not  to 
pocket  a few  of  the  prettiest.  Once  home  I 
removed  the  seeds  and  planted  them  com- 
munally in  a coldframe  row.  To  my  novice 
delight  they  sprouted  the  following  spring, 
and  then  I longed  to  pair  the  sprouts  with  the 
parent  apples.  (I  have  since  learned  to  keep 
careful  records  of  such  momentous  events.) 
In  the  light  of  possible  hybridization  this 
comparing  might  not  have  meant  much 
scientifically,  but  it  would  have  been  fun.  I 
did  find  a general  resemblance  to  the  pock- 
eted kinds  when  the  trees  finally  fruited. 

From  the  beginning  the  seedlings  were 
quite  different  in  appearance.  They  varied 
in  leaf  color  and  growth  habit.  When  I 
transplanted  them  to  a vegetable  row  nurs- 
ery, I counted  20  plants  of  four  sorts.  There 
was  a lax  branching  type  divided  between 
those  with  burgundy  or  with  deep  green 
leaves,  an  intermediate  green  variety,  and 
one  pale  green,  stiffly  upright  seedling. 

Rabbits  decimated  the  young  whips  that 
first  winter,  cropping  three  quarters  of  the 
tender-stemmed  trees  just  above  ground 
level.  Come  spring  about  half  regenerated 
with  lusty  and  multistemmed  new  growth. 
After  pruning,  a single  healthy  new  trunk 
was  growing  from  most  stumps.  By  season’s 
end  the  survivors’  growth  almost  matched 
their  unhampered  siblings.  The  only  signs 
of  mishap  were  dimples  in  the  young  bark. 


Moderating  temperatures  announced  a 
third  spring.  It  was  time  to  permanently 
place  the  young  trees.  Heady  with  grand 
possibilities,  I thought  a crab  allee  might  be 
nice,  so  I planted  several  similar  seedlings 
to  edge  a cart  road  passing  just  beyond  the 
garden  and  behind  a stark  outbuilding. 
Another  tree  was  positioned  close  by  the 
building  to  soften  and  tie  in  the  structure. 
Two  other  trees  that  I judged  the  best  of  the 
lot  were  destined  to  shade  my  new  terrace 
of  pink  brick  salvaged  from  a demolished 
town  garden.  When  I had  exhausted  all  my 
visions  and  given  away  all  I could,  one 
sapling  remained.  I transplanted  that  stiff, 
pale  green  seedling  hastily  without  much 
thought  to  an  out-of-the-way  border  oppo- 
site my  bedroom  window. 

The  crab  apple  adventure  took  place 
when  I was  not  long  owner  of  an  ill-used  old 
farm.  At  first  barren  fields  rolled  away  in  all 
directions  from  a gardenless  dooryard.  I 
suffered  the  emptiness  of  the  prairie.  Trees 
loomed  large  in  my  garden  plans.  The  crab 
apples  were  the  first  attempt  at  seeding 
trees.  This  idea  of  growing  trees  from  seed 
appealed  to  me  in  many  ways.  Economy 
was  impotant  at  the  time,  and  the  opportu- 
nity for  intimate  involvement  in  such  a 
grand  piece  of  natural  work  enthralled  me. 
Then  too  there  was  the  mystery  of  just  what 
a small  handful  of  seed  would  amount  to. 
No  reason  to  be  discouraged  at  the  specter 
of  time  to  maturity.  After  all,  time  passes 
whether  one  plants  or  not.  I read  some- 
where that  the  best  time  to  plant  a tree  was 
20  years  ago  and  that  the  second  best  is 
today.  I’m  not  so  sure  that  today  isn’t  the 
best  time.  This  primeval  unfolding  toward 
gnarled  grandeur  seems  as  thrilling,  as  re- 


23 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


continued 


24 


warding  for  the  gardener  as  for  parents 
watching  children  grow. 

Some  tree  seedlngs  came  unbidden. 
Haphazardly  composted  city  leaves  pro- 
vided volunteers.  One  of  the  first  was  a 
flowering  peach  tree  that  germinated  among 
the  quiet  harmonies  of  heirloom  flowers.  It 
flourished  surpassingly,  and  in  its  third 
year  burst  precociously  into  bloom,  favor- 
ing me  with  gobs  of  flamingo  pink  flowers. 
Each  year  it  grew  more  flaunting  and  out  of 
synch,  in  deeper  conflict  with  its  seemingly 
fading  companions.  In  those  days  I was  not 
yet  hardened  to  acts  of  horticultural  homi- 
cide. I could  only  look  on  disapprovingly, 
like  an  unhappy  parent  at  its  flamboyant  be- 
havior. Nature,  taking  pity  it  seemed,  inter- 
vened. A stem  borer  performed  the  deed, 
and  shortly  the  flowering  peach  was  no 
more. 

Composting  as  I practice  it  is  imperfect 
art.  Ingredients  are  varied,  often  scavanged, 
and  usually  do  not  add  up  to  the  ideal  of  self 
heating,  self  sterilizing  heap.  Rhubarb, 
raspberry,  and  horseradish  have  sprung  from 
recent  piled  imported  flotsam.  Iris,  lily  of 
the  valley,  and  even  the  odd  exotic  lily  have 
crept  aboard  incognito  in  black  plastic  leaf 
bags.  Seedling  trees  emerging  from  such 
vital  rubble  have  a purposefulness  unobser- 
ved in  their  coddled  cousins.  No  wispy 
tenderleaf,  this!  Only  two  inches  high  and 
already  a tiny  titan  on  its  titan’s  business. 
I’m  methodical  master  at  weed  extermina- 
tion by  now,  but  eradicating  a new  sprung 
sapling,  a tiny  gift  of  such  arboreal  prom- 
ise, still  comes  hard. 

The  hollow  maple  that  each  spring  har- 
bored a nest  of  sparrow  hawks  just  outside 
my  front  door  is  gone.  It  crashed  mightily  in 
a night  of  icy  gale.  It  has  been  replaced  with 
a tulip  tree  that  rose  auspiciously  in  rich, 
raspberry  row  mulch  the  preceding  spring. 
I miss  the  summer  morning  shade  and  the 
calls  of  fierce  young  bird,  but  in  their  place 


A coldfmmt  is  an  ideal  spot 
jbr  overwintering  seed . 


grows  this  slender  sapling  already  taller 
than  me  by  a foot.  Its  upward  reach  holds  a 
peculiar  tension  for  a tree  with  no  close 
competitors.  I anticipate  with  great  pleas- 
ure the  long  stretch  to  maturity  and  full 
flower.  Will  someone  give  silent  thanks  for 
it  someday,  as  I now  do  for  high  canopied 
summer  avenues  and  for  solitary,  wind- 
swept giants  that  give  comfort  and  distinc- 
tion to  our  landscapes? 

Around  the  periphery  of  my  three  acres 
grows  my  forest  in  the  making.  Dogwoods 
came  first  as  transplants  from  a relative’s 
scrubby  fencerow.  Now  there  are  a dozen 
volunteers  each  spring  to  plant  along  my 
eventually  to  be  woodland  path.  Hollies 
sprang  from  Christmas  berries  broadcast  in 


Walnut  trees  began  }IJe  as  nuts 
planted  in  the  vegetable  garden. 


flower  beds.  Now,  like  Johnny  Appleseed, 
I spread  berries  along  the  path  where  I’d 
like  trees  to  stand.  Black  walnut  trees  stand- 
ing 20  feet  high  along  the  path  began  life  as 
many  years  ago  as  nuts  planted  in  the  vege- 
table garden. 

Seeding  trees  can  be  as  casual  or  as 
careful  as  you  care  to  make  it.  It  is  best  to 
plant  or  stratify  seed  in  the  fall . The  passage 
of  winter  naturally  conditions  the  seed  for 
spring  germination.  Protect  valuable  or 
particularly  vulnerable  seed;  cover  the 
garden  sown  seed  with  a wire  mesh  such  as 
hardware  cloth  to  foil  seed  eaters.  A 
coldframe  is  an  ideal  protected  spot  for 
overwintering  seed.  Alternatively  the  seed 
may  be  layered  with  a slightly  moist  mix- 
ture of  sand  and  peat  in  a rodent-proof 
container  and  left  in  an  unheated  outbuild- 
ing or  to  the  alternate  freeze  and  thaw  of 
winter  at  work.  Plant  the  seed  before  warm 
weather  arrives. 

Seed  grown  trees  are  not  right  for  every 
purpose.  Started  from  scratch  specimens 
will  probably  not  equal  the  professionally 
propagated  product  in  their  excellent  uni- 
formity, and  seed  from  hybrids  or  dwarfs 
will  likely  give  poor  results.  Yields  from 
fruit  trees  may  not  equal  parent’s  eating 
quality.  A carefully  planned  landscape  could 
be  set  awry  by  a wild  card  whip.  (Heed  my 
tale  of  the  flowering  peach.)  But  for  the 
gardener  with  curiosity  and  an  informal 
comer  to  fill,  seeding  trees  may  perfectly  fit 
the  bill.  Chances  are  the  seedling  you  pro- 
duce will  closely  enough  resemble  a typical 
species  form.  You  can  look  forward  to  its 
splendid  maturity,  when  you  can  say  with 
just  pride,  “I  grew  this  from  seed.” 

• 

Barbara  Bruno  divides  her  time  between  art, 
writing  and  gardening.  She  has  several  books  to 
her  credit  and  has  written  and  illustrated  more 
than  80  magazine  articles  for  adults  and  chil- 
dren. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Dogwood 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  bv  Barbara  Bruno 


26 


Almost  every  pocket  that  I have  gets 
filled  with  seeds  and  identifying  notes  (i.e. 
C.  taw.s'CMnine,  1987).  Special  seed  packets 
are  sold  at  stationery  stores  but  I never  have 
them  when  I need  them.  Newspaper,  facial 
tissue,  paper  towels:  I have  folded  all  to  use 
as  seed  carriers.  You  can  bring  back  seeds 
from  your  worldwide  travels,  from  a walk 
in  the  woods  or  fields,  or  from  your  friend's 
garden.  Lightweight,  easily  packed,  port- 
able, seeds  are  not  against  USDA  import 
rules,  and  most  gardeners  are  happy  to 
share. 

The  most  exciting  and  enduring  seeds  to 
collect  are  those  of  trees.  Most  are  not  hard 
to  germinate,  and  they  are  not  unduly  long 
in  rewarding  the  grower.  Unusual  trees  that 
are  not  often  for  sale  at  your  local  nursery, 
can  thus  be  easily  obtained. 

We  have  started  a Kentucky  coffee  tree 
allee  ( Gymnocladus  dioica)  from  seed  gath- 
ered the  winter  of  '80  at  the  Birmingham 
Friends  Meeting  ground.  The  seed  pods  are 
similar  to  oversized  lima  beans  with  black 
shiny  “limas"  inside.  My  husband  filed  the 
hard  seed  coat,  scarring  it  till  the  embryo,  a 
speck  of  white,  showed.  We  placed  them  in 
a plastic  baggie  with  slightly  dampened 
Pro-mix  in  the  refrigerator.  The  following 
spring  these  were  planted,  sprouted  and 
moved,  with  warm  weather,  to  a nursery 
area.  A year  later  they  were  planted  perma- 
nently along  our  upper  drive  where  they 
now  are  12  ft.  tall. 

A new  coffee  tree  is  now  hibernating  in 
our  refrigerator.  Theodore  R.  Dudley  of  the 
National  Arboretum  sent  them  to  PHS 
member  Sally  Reath,  and  she  has  shared 
them  with  us.  No  description  has  yet  been 
found  of  this  Gymnocladus  chinensis.  We 
know  the  seed  wascollected  in  the  wild.  We 
can  hardly  wait  to  see  what  differences 
there  will  be  from  the  Chadds  Ford  variety. 

When  I worked  as  a volunteer  propaga- 
tor at  Winterthur,  we  received  seed  sent  by 
other  botanical  gardens  and  horticultural 
organizations.  From  the  Arnold  Arbore- 
tum, Polly  Hill  sent  seed  of  Davidia  involu- 
crata , called  either  the  dove  or  handker- 
chief tree  because  the  6 inch  long  white 


A 

Pocketful 
of  Seeds 
for 

Unusual 

Trees 


We  have  started  a Kentucky  coffee 
tree  allee  (Gymnocladus  dioica )from 
seed  gathered  the  winter  of  ’80  at  the 
Birmingham  Friends  M eeting  ground. 


lower  bract  of  this  dogwood-like  tree  flut- 
ters in  the  breezes.  Plant  explorer  E.  H. 
Wilson  gave  this  tree  rave  reviews.  We 
hope  it's  worth  waiting  for,  as  it  may  take 
20  years  to  bloom.  We  have  14  more  to  go. 

The  National  Arboretum  sent  Idesia 
polycarpa.  Germinated  in  1981  the  Idesia 
grove  at  Winterthur  is  above  the  Quarry 
and  now  over  15  feet  tall.  The  runt  of  the 
litter,  which  I was  allowed  to  bring  home 
has  grown  as  tall,  but  none  of  this  seed  lot 
has  produced  the  panicles  of  fall  red  berries 
for  which  Idesia  is  famous.  This  tree  has 
strange  sex  habits.  Male  and  female  flow- 
ers are  sometimes  found  on  the  same  tree, 
or  sometimes  on  different  trees.  Joanna 
Reed's  Idesia  has  achieved  some  fame:  Its 
picture,  complete  with  abundant  fruit,  is 
featured  in  the  book,  The  American 
Woman’s  Garden  .*  Given  to  Joanna  by 


*The  American  Woman's  Garden.  Rosemary  Verey 
and  Ellen  Samuel,  New  York  Graphic  Society.  Little 
Brown,  Boston.  1984. 


Laura  Barnes  of  the  Arboretum  of  the  Bar- 
nes Foundation  in  the  early  1950's  at  about 
5 ft.,  Joanna’s  tree  is  now  25-80  ft.  tall  and 
the  nearest  other  Idesia  is  one  mile  away  at 
Barnes’  Ker-Feal.  Is  Joanna’s  tree  self  fer- 
tile? She  found  a seedling,  which  she  gave 
to  me.  Now  7 ft.  tall,  we  hope  pollination 
takes  place  with  two  very  close  trees  and 
that  soon  fall  fruit  will  appear.  Meanwhile 
the  heart-shaped  leaves  on  red  petioles,  and 
the  architectural  habit  of  growth,  make 
these  interesting  small  trees  for  our  land- 
scape. 

Like  the  Kentucky  coffee  tree,  you  rarely 
find  the  Empress  tree  (Paulownia  tomen- 
tosa)  for  sale  at  your  local  nursery.  It  is  big, 
bold  and  messy,  but  also  very  beautiful.  If 
you  have  a comer  you  wish  to  embellish  or 
an  allee  like  the  one  at  Longwood  Gardens 
you  wish  to  create,  the  Empress  tree  is  ex- 
tremely easy  to  grow  from  seed.  With  its 
long  fragile  tap  root  it  must  be  put  in  place 
at  one  year  and  therefore  it  cannot  be  con- 
tainerized successfully.  Mice,  rabbits  and 
deer  love  its  succulent  bark,  so  surround  it 
with  wire  till  the  bark  toughens  with  age. 
Yet,  the  upright  panicles  of  bright  purple 
against  a blue  spring  sky  make  all  this 
struggle  worthwhile.  It  grows  an  amazing 
three  feet  or  more  a year,  so  you  have  a fair 
sized  canopy  quickly.  The  Japanese  prize 
the  wood  of  Paulownia  for  making  dower 
chests  and  coffins.  Because  of  this  popular- 
ity few  Empress  trees  are  left  in  Japan,  and 
Americans  are  shipping  the  wood  to  Japan. 
The  large  seed  pods  have  a balsa  wood 
lightness  and  were  used  by  the  Chinese  to 
pack  their  export  china  much  as  we  use 
styrofoam  chips  today.  The  old  seed  pods 
were  thrown  away  when  china  was  un- 
packed and  subsequently  the  dumps 
sprouted  Paulownia.  Members  of  the  du- 
Pont  family  call  these  "Dump”  trees.  From 
the  dump  or  not,  Paulownia  has  many  uses 
as  well  as  ornamental  value. 

A good  magnolia  not  often  seen  is  M. 
ashei.  Hortus  III  describes  this  as  a native 
of  Texas  and  Florida.  Growing  very  well  in 
the  Delaware  Valley,  it  is  a restrained 
smaller  version  of  M.  macrophylla , but 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


more  like  a deciduous  M.  grandiflora  with 
a similar  pink  tinged  porcelain  white  blos- 
som. The  height  here  is  about  two  and  a half 
stories.  In  spring  and  summer  the  leaves  are 
6-8"  long,  lustrous  green  on  top,  soft  silver 
underneath.  In  fall  the  leaves  turn  dark 
brown  on  top,  light  grey  beneath.  They 
twist  as  they  dry  into  interesting  shapes, 
which  are  stunning  used  in  fall  dried  ar- 
rangements. My  seeds  were  obtained  from 
M.  M.  Brubaker  and  now  are  his  living 
memorials. 

Evodia  daniellii  is  a summer  flowering 
medium  size  tree  with  white  blossoms  that 
attract  honey  bees.  The  whole  perfumed 
tree  vibrates  with  their  buzzing.  This  grows 
quickly  from  seed. 

Hoxenia  dulcis  has  fruit  that  resembles 
gnarled  raisins  that  the  Japanese  apparently 
eat  with  relish.  We  don't  have  to  eat  them, 
just  plant  them  and  up  they  come  to  make  a 
big  tall  sturdy  unusual  shade  tree.  The 
Arboretum  of  the  Barnes  Foundation  and 
the  National  Arboretum  both  have  raisin 
trees. 

Pinus  bungeana , the  lace-bark  pine,  with 
its  interesting  exfoliating  bark  and  restrained 
growth  habit  is  an  ideal  evergreen  for  the 
small  home  landscape.  It  is  expensive  to 
buy  when  you  can  find  it.  Seed  from  a cone 
picked  up  near  a local  arboretum's  parking 
lot  produced  a bumper  crop. 

But  our  favorite  tree  that  can  easily  be 
grown  from  seed  is  the  four  season,  four 
star  oriental  dogwood,  Cornus  kousa.  In 
October  of  1980  red  strawberry  fruit  of 
Cornus  kousa  were  picked  from  M.  M. 
Brubaker’s  grove  of  these  lovely  trees.  The 
fruit  was  macerated,  separating  the  seed 
from  the  pulp,  then  stratified  in  the  refrig- 
erator and  germinated  in  the  spring  of  1 98 1 . 
In  the  spring  of  1987  five  of  these  trees 
grown  from  this  havest  bloomed  florifer- 
ously.  Curving  down  our  hillside  drive  their 
white  starry  bracts  illuminate  our  forest 
surroundings.  October  '87 1 picked  my  own 
fruit.  In  November  the  kousa  still  retained 
their  vivid  red  leaves  to  brighten  a somber 
day.  As  they  age  their  trunks  will  acquire 
exfoliating  bark,  a grey,  brown,  white 


Photo  by  Nancy  Baldwin  Long 


Idesia  polycarpa  at  Joanna  Reed's. 


mosaic  which  will  give  dead-of-winter  inter- 
est. Seven  and  a half  years  from  seed  to 
Bower.  That  is  rewarding. 

So  begin  to  fill  your  pockets  with  seed. 
Yes,  pick  up  the  pawpaws  and  put  them  in 
your  pocket.  They,  too,  come  readily  from 
seed.  Read  books  on  propagation.  For  as 
easy  as  trees  are  to  raise  from  seed,  they  all 
have  different  requirements.  Franklinia 
needs  to  be  sown  in  the  ground  as  soon  as  its 
seeds  ripen  in  the  fall.  Some  seeds  like  the 
Gymnocladus  require  that  their  hard  seed 
coats  be  mechanically  scarred.  Some  trees 
have  double  dormancy  but  there  are  ways 
of  speeding  up  even  this  process.  All  the 
pertinent  information  is  readily  available. 
Start  with  borrowing  a book  from  the  PHS 
library.  Buy  seed  packets  to  hold  those 
small  treasures  that  you  gather.  Begin  your 
own  forest,  or  at  least  a grove. 


Books  about  Propagation 

The  Reference  Manual  of  Woody  Plant 
Propagation:  From  Seed  to  Tissue  Culture , 
Michael  A.  Dirr  and  Charles  W.  Heuser.  Jr., 
Varsity  Press  Inc.,  Athens,  Ga.,  1987 

Seeds  of  Woody  Plants  in  the  United  States, 
Forest  Service,  U.S.  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, Agricultural  Handbook  #450,  1974 

Both  books  available  at  the  PHS  Library. 


Toni  Brinton  has  a woodland  gathering  of  native 
and  exotic  plants  on  the  south-facing  slope  of 
Brinton’s  Run.  north  of  Chadd's  Ford.  Pa.  Toni 
Brinton  is  a former  member  of  the  PHS  Council 
and  former  chair  of  PHS  Library  committee,  as 
well  as  a hard-working  Flower  Show  volunteer. 
She  volunteers  as  a plant  propagator  for  Winter- 
thur Museum  and  Gardens,  and  the  Garden  Club 
of  America's  Zone  V Plant  Sale.  Her  present  #1 
priority  is  all  aspects  of  the  restoration  of 
America's  oldest  Garden  — John  Bartram's. 


27 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  by  Toni  Brinton 


Indispensible  for  flower 
arrangers,  this  brick 
was  born  out  of  life  raft 
research  and  now  shares 
the  spotlight  with 
podiatrists  and  NASA. 


by  Kristi  Jalics 


W 

1 

^ 

■m  j 

The  scene  was  intensely  “hi  tech”; 

before  a hushed  crowd  the  tech- 
nician heated  and  vibrated  his 
chemicals,  extracted  a minute 
flask  of  dark  liquid,  and  rapidly  poured  the 
contents  into  a large  transparent  rectangle. 
Instantly  the  liquid  foamed  into  a solid,  ex- 
panding to  fill  the  container.  But  would  it  be 
contained?  A murmur  broke  out  in  the  front 
row;  the  visitors  pushed  their  seats  back, 
fearing  the  worst. 

But  all  was  well.  Before  it  could  engulf 
the  faint-hearted  among  us,  the  phenolic 
resin  had  completely  expanded  into  a brick 
of  Oasis  floral  foam.  This  razzle  dazzle 
demonstration  was  put  on  by  the  Smithers 
Oasis  Company.  I was  impressed,  but  left 
with  more  quesitons  than  answers  about 
this  product  whose  name  is  as  generic  for 
floral  foam  as  Kleenex  is  for  facial  tissue. 
For  as  long  as  I’ve  been  arranging  flowers. 
Oasis  has  been  available.  1 never  ques- 
tioned what  it  was  or  how  it  developed. 

The  story  of  Oasis  is  a fascinating  mix  of 
a solution  in  search  of  a problem,  product 
refinement  in  response  to  user  need  and 
tehcnological  possibility,  and  marvelous 
salesmanship.  It’s  the  Horatio  Alger  story 
of  the  floral  industry. 

In  the  early  50’s,  V.  L.  Smithers  was 
president  of  Smithers  Scientific,  a com- 
pany that  did  research  for  Akron’s  giant 
rubber  industry,  which  had  been  moving 
full  steam  ahead  during  the  war  years. 
Smithers  was  fascinated  by  some  of  the 
intriguing  new  products  developed  for  life 
rafts.  This  “interesting”  buoyant  foam  must 
have  other  commercial  possibilities.  But 
what  were  they? 

Discovery  has  been  defined  as,  “looking 
at  what  everyone  has  been  looking  at  and 
seeing  what  no  one  else  has  seen.”  But  if 
Oasis’s  actual  “eureka”  moment  occurred 
when  someone  suddenly  shouted  out, 
“Gotcha!  We  can  use  it  for  flower  arrang- 
ing!”, the  memory  has  been  lost  in  time.  It 
does  seem  to  be  true  that  Smithers  had 
friends  in  the  Akron  area  florist  trade  to 
whom  he  showed  his  foam  quite  early  on,  to 
see  whether  they  thought  it  had  a future  in 
their  business. 

Betting  that  it  did,  the  63-year  old  entre- 
preneur sold  Smithers  Scientific  to  launch 
his  new  venture.  And  though  initially  slow 
to  catch  on,  this  raw  resin,  an  oil  industry 

the  green  scene  / november  1988 


by-product  foamed  up  by  an  acid,  has  revo- 
lutionized the  floral  industry  by  providing 
the  simplest  and  most  foolproof  solution  to 
the  problems  of  keeping  arranged  flowers 
in  good  condition  and  allowing  designers  to 
put  and  keep  them  where  they  want  them. 

The  secret  of  Oasis  was  how  to  make  the 
foam  wettable,  a process  they  patented  for 
17  years.  But  it  took  most  of  the  first  10 
years  to  solve  some  of  the  minor  problems 
and  sell  the  stuff  to  the  industry. 

From  the  very  beginning  the  foam  could 
hold  the  same  impressive  amount  of  water 
it  does  now.  Today  a nine  inch  by  four  inch 
by  three  inch  Oasis  block  holds  about  50 
times  its  own  weight  in  water  (about  two 
quarts  or  four  pounds  of  liquid)  and  satu- 
rates in  less  than  a minute — a far  cry  from 
the  beginning  when  bricks  took  almost  an 
hour  to  wet.  They  stayed  good  for  about 
five  days  as  long  as  they  were  never  al- 
lowed to  dry  out.  They  had  to  either  be  kept 
in  water  or  sealed  carefully  in  polythene 
bags.  Once  dry,  they  were  not  rewettable. 
Today  we  simply  drop  a brick  into  water  for 
the  60  second  saturation. 

Still,  when  lifted  from  its  bath  it  always 
possessed  the  desirable  quality  of  being  full 
of  “non-spillable"  water  that  would  not 
drip,  splash,  or  drain  out.  Jack  Savarese, 
the  company’s  first  spokesman,  always 
wanted  to  be  on  the  T.  V.  show,  “What's  My 
Line?”  as  a salesman  of  non-spillable  wa- 
ter. For  florists  this  quality  gave  them  one 
less  disaster  to  worry  about.  Jim  Briden- 
baugh,  director  of  Educational  Services 
recalled  such  a catastrophe  from  his  early 
days  as  a florist.  Entering  a Catholic  Church 
in  Defiance,  Ohio  with  a large  um  arrange- 
ment supported  with  the  old  chicken  wire 
and  newspaper  in  water,  he  stopped  to 
genuflect.  The  boy  behind  crashed  into 
him;  Jim,  urn,  flowers,  and  gallons  of  water 
were  awash  on  the  stone  floor.  The  pastor 
was  amused.  The  florist  was  not. 

five  type  of  Oasis 

Nowadays,  the  foam  is  not  only  much 
simpler  to  use,  but  five  types  are  available. 
Working  with  those  original  bricks  of  Oasis, 
florists  preferred  the  lighter  density  bricks 
for  use  with  soft-stemmed  flowers  such  as 
daffodils  and  tulips.  Now  these  cell  density 
differences  are  controlled  by  computer.  The 
softer  foam  is  sold  as  "Springtime”;  the 

continued 


Discovery  has  been  defined  as,  “ look- 
ing at  what  everyone  has  been  looking 
at  and  seeing  what  no  one  else  has 
seen.” 


29 


heavier,  “Delux,”  supports  weightier  plants 
such  as  bird  of  paradise  or  gladiolus.  “In- 
stant" saturates  in  seconds,  and  is  the  best 
seller  in  the  northeast  where  perhaps  we  are 
less  patient.  Or  busier?  “Instant  Delux" 
combines  both  qualities.  The  original  stan- 
dard Oasis  is,  of  course,  still  available. 
Interestingly,  the  southeast  favors  the  ar- 
rangements with  heavy-stemmed  plants, 
while  out  west  “Springtime”  is  the  best 
seller.  Is  this  a case  of  opposites  attracting  ? 

Besides  overcoming  technical  problems 
the  new  company  had  to  win  acceptance 
from  the  older  florists  who  were  used  to 


Podiatrists  take  foot  impessions  with 
it,  and  since  an  early  space  program 
disaster  when  a launchpad  fire  in- 
volving urethane  foam  caused  a death 
from  toxic  fume  inhalation,  NASA 
has  preferred  to  use  phenolic  foam 
which  does  not  give  off  toxic  gases  if 
burnt. 


chicken  wire  and  who  like  most  of  us,  resist 
change.  In  the  early  50’s  Smithers  found 
two  floral  designers,  Ethel  Brite  and  Bill 
Hixson,  who  together  with  Mrs.  Brite's 
sister  Hazel,  traveled  to  wholesale  houses 
all  over  demonstrating  and  explaining  what 
could  be  done  with  this  new  product.  One  of 
Hixson's  memories  of  those  early  days 
concerns  taking  some  foam  into  Mexico. 
The  customs  inspector  wanted  to  know 
30  what  this  strange  material  was.  Hixson  who 
felt  it  probably  would  not  be  allowed  into 
the  coutnry  as  flower  arranging  material 
told  the  officer  that  it  was  a newly  devel- 
oped soap  for  people  with  dermatitis.  This 
delighted  the  inspector  who  immediately 
begged  a few  pieces  for  his  poor  sister  with 
skin  problems.  We  can  only  hope  the  pla- 
cebo effect  did  her  some  good. 

Bill  Hixson  recalls  suggesting  that  in 
addition  to  the  green  foam,  they  develop  a 
brown  foam  for  dry  flower  arrangements. 
Thus  Sahara  was  bom,  which  is  now  made 
in  two  types,  the  deep  brown 
“original”  dry  foam  and  Sahara  II  for 
heavier  plant  material.  Hixson  also  pro- 
posed finding  companies  that  would  manu- 
facture containers  in  sizes  and  shapes 
compatible  with  the  product. 

Smithers  Oasis  has  long  since  expanded 
beyond  our  national  borders;  they  not  only 
have  plants  in  Kent,  Ohio,  and  Bakersfield, 
California,  but  Japan,  Australia,  Great  Brit- 


Oasis  Rootcubes  Growing  Medium  Strip  with  geranium  cuttings. 


ain,  Denmark,  Africa,  and  West  Germany. 
The  plant  in  Ajax,  Ontario  just  celebrated 
its  twenty-fifth  anniversary.  Millions  of 
cases  are  shipped  out  every  year;  one  can 
find  Oasis  virtually  everywhere.  Since  it  is 
even  sent  into  Singapore  and  Hong  Kong, 
some  certainly  finds  its  way  into  mainland 
China.  Yes,  it's  everywhere,  except  possi- 
bly in  the  home  of  company  president 
Charles  Walton.  When  I met  his  wife  April 
at  the  Great  Lakes  Herb  Symposium  in 
Hiram,  Ohio,  this  summer,  she  compared 
herself  to  the  barefoot  cobbler's  wife. 
“When  I want  to  do  arrangements,”  she 
lamented,  “there's  no  foam  at  home.' 

truckers,  podiatrists  and  NASA 

This  versatile  foam  is  used  for  more  than 
floral  design,  however.  A California  truck- 
ing company  uses  it  to  develop  prototype 
dashboards,  and  it  provides  insulation 
around  containers  of  hazardous  chemicals. 
Podiatrists  take  foot  impessions  with  it,  and 


since  an  early  space  program  disaster  when 
a launchpad  fire  involving  urethane  foam 
caused  a death  from  toxic  fume  inhalation, 
NASA  has  preferred  to  use  phenolic  foam, 
which  does  not  give  off  toxic  gases  if  burnt. 
Gardeners  can  also  recycle  crumbled  up  old 
Oasis  foam  into  potting  soil  mixes  as  a soil 
lightener,  and  commercial  growers  are  more 
and  more  using  specially  formulated  Oasis 
growing  medium  plugs  as  rooting  media. 

Garden  clubs  needing  fund  raisers  are 
able  to  purchase  special  kits  such  as  the 
European  designer  collection  at  reduced 
prices  for  resale . For  more  information  about 
Oasis,  contact  Smithers  Oasis:  P.O.  Box 
118;  Kent,  OH  44240. 

Kristi  Jalics  is  garden  editor  of  the  Bath  Country 
Journal.  She  gardens  in  Bath.  Ohio  and  Point 
Chautauqua.  NY.  She  is  a member  of  the  Med- 
ina County  Herb  Society  and  British  Cottage 
Garden  Society  and  is  indiscriminately  enchanted 
by  all  plants  of  cottage  gardens  and  hedgerows. 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  Courtesy  of  Smith  Oasis  Co. 


GROWING  INTERESTS 


*1 


By  Roxie  Gevjan 

After  attending  The  Inter- 
national Rock  Garden  Confer- 
ence in  Nottingham,  England 
in  1 97 1 , 1 visited  a well-known 
English  nursery  to  buy  some 
treasures  for  my  garden. 

The  proprietor,  Mr.  Elliott, 
told  me  that  most  of  his  choice 
plants  had  been  sold  before 
the  conference,  and  that  he 
could  not  supply  me  with  many 
of  the  plants  I had  checked  in 
his  catalog.  Not  wanting  to  go 
home  empty  handed,  1 simply 
used  my  “penny  candy  store” 
technique,  going  around  the 
nursery  and  selecting  “one  of 
these”  and  “one  of  those.”  It 
wasn't  long  before  I sensed  that  my  choices 
were  really  not  special.  I stopped  and  asked 
Mr.  Elliott  “Do  you  have  some  special 
plant  that  you  might  recommend?”  I can 
never  thank  him  enough  for  his  answer. 
“Yes,”  he  replied.  " Primula  allionii."  I had 
never  heard  of  the  plant  and  hoped  that  my 
ignorance  was  not  evident. 

Primula  allionii  came  home  with  me.  (I 
have  an  import  license.)  I learned  that  it 
needed  perfect  drainage  and  no  overhead 
water.  1 carefully  potted  it  up  and  put  it  in 
the  alpine  house  at  the  end  of  April.  As 
time  went  on  the  plant  seemed  very  con- 
tent. By  the  end  of  the  year,  the  small 
rosette  had  grown  and  produced  more  ro- 
settes. By  January,  it  produced  its  magnifi- 
cent bloom.  The  leaves  are  ovate,  fleshy, 
and  very  sticky.  The  plant  forms  a tight  bun 
of  gray-green,  evergreen  rosettes,  topped 
by  usually  rose  to  deep  rose  flowers  with  a 
white  eye,  almost  covering  the  entire  plant. 
There  are  white  flowered  forms. 

This  lovely  plant  has  a very  limited  dis- 
tribution in  nature,  existing  in  only  a few 
stations  in  a 150  mile  radius  in  the  French 
and  Italian  Maritime  Alps.  In  this  natural 
habitat,  it  blooms  from  March  to  April.  It  is 
found  in  small  grottoes,  in  shady  caves 
where  there  is  neither  sun  nor  rain,  accord- 
ing to  plant  explorer  Reginald  Farrer.  In 
those  areas  it  forms  enormous  cushions 
three  to  four  feet  or  more,  across;  the  growth 
is  more  luxuriant  and  the  masses  larger 
than  plants  grown  on  the  open  rock  forma- 


tions where  they  are  exposed  to  sun.  For 
some  reason.  Primula  allionii  has  the  repu- 
tation of  being  difficult  in  cultivation.  Not 
true.  Certainly,  not  for  me. 

As  I mentioned  earlier,  my  original  plant 
grew  rather  quickly  and  well.  I potted  it 
into  soil  amended  with  dolomitic  lime,  some 
humus,  and  a generous  portion  of  small 
limestone  chips.  I placed  small  pieces  of 
tuff*  around  the  crown  of  the  plant  and 
dressed  it  with  limestone  chippings.  Where 
I live  in  the  Delaware  Valley,  it  will  grow 
indoors  or  outdoors,  in  sun  or  shade,  and 
possibly  just  as  well  in  either  of  those  situ- 
ations in  colder  climates. 

indoor  culture 

I suggest  using  a clay  pot,  in  proportion- 
ate size  to  the  plant,  not  too  large,  not  too 
small.  I think  it  likes  some  crowding.  When 
it  fills  the  pot  completely,  it  is  time  either  to 
repot  or  to  propagate.  The  soil  should  be 
limey,  gritty,  and  fairly  loamy.  I saw  an 
article  recommending  no  sun,  but  all  my 
plants  enjoy  a southwest  exposure  in  the 
alpine  house,  plunged  in  sand  (in  clay  pots). 
Bloom  continues  from  Christmas  — some- 
times earlier  — until  the  end  of  April. 
Occasionally,  I do  enjoy  sporadic  blooms 
as  late  as  the  first  week  of  May.  Beginning 
in  October  I fertilize  my  plants  with  a weak 
solution.  Seaborn  or  fish  emulsion,  or  what- 
ever is  handy.  Sometimes  I forget,  so  I 


*tuff  — stone  of  volcanic  origin 


really  do  not  know  if  fertiliz- 
ing is  essential  because  I al- 
most always  enjoy  a beautiful 
extravaganza  of  bloom  with 
this  primula.  1 remove  all  with- 
ered or  decayed  leaves  care- 
fully. I top  dress  all  the  pots 
with  small  pieces  of  tuff  and 
cover  any  exposed  areas  of  soil 
with  pea-sized  pieces  of  tuff  or 
small  lime  chips  being  careful 
to  surround  the  crown  com- 
pletely. This  procedure  pro- 
vides lime,  keeps  the  soil  moist, 
and  discourages  slugs,  which 
can  quickly  destroy  the  plant. 
Fortunately.  I have  not  had  any 
of  these  problems  with  Prim- 
ula allionii.  The  plants  are  kept 
moist  also  by  watering  the  sand 
into  which  the  pots  are  plunged. 
Most  texts,  and  growers,  caution  against 
overhead  watering.**  But  I do  it  all  the 
time  using  a watering  can  with  an  excel- 
lent, thin  spout,  enabling  me  to  water  around 
the  cushion.  I also  water  the  sand.  If  any 
water  does  get  on  the  leaves  or  flower.  I 
simply  soak  it  up  with  a paper  towel  or  a bit 
of  tissue.  I do  not  believe  that  these  few 
drops  will  damage  the  plant,  however,  nor 
will  overhead  watering  unless  it  comes  in 
the  form  of  a cloudburst.  It  is  excessive  wet 
that  destroys  Primula  allionii. 

outdoor  culture 

Prepare  a tight  crevice  in  hard  limestone 
rock,  in  either  sun  or  shade,  with  perfect 
drainage.  About  June  or  July,  remove  a 
rosette,  or  rosettes,  from  the  mother  plant 
and  insert  into  moist  sand.  Rooting  should 
take  place  in  three  or  four  weeks.  When  the 
very  fine  roots  develop,  place  the  plant  in 
the  prepared  crevice  and  pack  it  in  firmly. 
It  should  bloom  the  following  year. 

propagation  on  a larger  scale 

This  is  quite  easy,  using  the  method  just 
described.  For  propagation  on  a larger  scale, 
wait  until  the  plant  is  out  of  bloom  and 
remove  it  from  the  pot.  Shake  off  all  the 


**They  may  also  be  watered  by  plunging  the  pot 
to  the  rim  in  a suitable  container  of  water.  This 
method  is  usually  the  most  popularly  recom- 
mended for  watering  potted  plants  that  are  sen- 
sitive to  overhead  watering. 


31 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


continued 


GROWING  INTERESTS 


soil.  Remove  any  yellowed  leaves.  Care- 
fully divide  the  plant,  separating  each  ro- 
sette wherever  possible  with  a thin  blade, 
— a razor  blade  will  do  well.  Insert  each 
rosette  around  the  edge  of  an  azalea  pot  and 
plunge  the  entire  pot  into  a sand  bed,  pro- 
tected, of  course,  from  overhead  wet,  slugs, 
birds,  etc.  Keep  the  sand  moist,  but  not  wet. 
The  cuttings  should  root  in  three  or  four 
weeks,  and  some  may  even  bloom  in  De- 
cember or  January,  indoors.  You  should 
have  100%  success. 

Primula  allionii  has  many  lovely  color 
forms.  The  plant  develops  large  cushions 
in  a relatively  short  time.  The  blooms  al- 
most completely  cover  these  cushions  with 
almost  sessile  flowers.  Because  of  its  ex- 
tended period  of  bloom,  as  well  as  its  ever- 
green gray  green  leaves,  it  is  a rewarding 
plant  throughout  the  entire  year. 

• 

Roxie  Gevjan  has  a show  garden  featuring  na- 
tive and  exotic  wild  flowers,  alpines  and  un- 
usual conifers.  She  grows  many  of  her  plants 
from  seed.  She  has  won  a number  of  awards  for 
her  plants  at  the  Philadelphia  Flower  Show,  in- 
cluding one  Best  of  Show  and  15  blues  for  her 
Primula  allionii. 


Overview  of  Primula  allionii  bench  in  Alpine  House 


Ruellia  makoyana 

By  Martha  B.  Darlington 

I bought  my  first  Ruellia  makoyana 
without  knowing  anything  about  the  tempt- 
ing little  stranger.  The  plant  had  no  label,  so 
I had  no  idea  what  its  cultural  requirements 
might  be,  but  it  was  obviously  healthy  and 
making  growth,  and  tiny,  so  the  price  was 
small.  And  I thought  it  would  make  a pretty 
foliage  plant.  The  leaves  are  covered  with 
hairs  so  fine  that  it  is  more  like  suede  than 
velvet.  Each  small  oval  leaf  has  a maroon 
reverse,  and  the  rich  green  upper  surface  is 
accented  by  a regular  silvery  pattern  at  the 
mid-rib. 

Imagine  how  pleased  I was  when  my 
“foliage”  plant — grown  to  respectable 
size — covered  itself  with  small  rosy-car- 
mine trumpet  flowers,  just  as  short  days  and 
cold  weather  really  set  in,  in  late  Novem- 
ber, and  growth,  never  mind  bloom,  was 
hardly  the  order  of  the  day  on  my  window 
sill.  Now  I was  able  fo  identify  my  new  find. 

Ruellia  makoyana  has  no  real  common 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


Photo  by  Armen  Gevjan  Photo  by  T . Stephan  Thompson 


name.  It  is  called  "trailing  velvet  plant,”  an 
excellent  description,  but  also  used  for 
Rubus  reflexus.  Also  “monkey  plant,”  for 
no  very  obvious  reason.  The  genus  was 
named  in  honor  of  a Frenchman,  Jean  de  la 
Ruelle  of  Soissons,  who  wrote  De  Natura 
Plantarum  in  1 536.  A member  of  the  Acan- 
thaceae  family,  Ruellia  was  once  a genus 
of  over  200  species,  but  has  now  been 
reduced  by  taxonomists’  reclassification  to 
five,  mostly  sub-shrubs  and  mostly  from 
Brazil.  The  other  Ruellia  are  greenhouse 
plants,  but  I have  found  R.  makoyana  to  be 
quite  happy  as  a house  plant. 

The  stems  of  Ruellia  makoyana  are  weak 
and  branching,  a growth  pattern  perfect  for 
a basket  plant.  Hung  so  it  can  be  turned  it 
will  balance  itself  and  not  need  pinching.  It 
should  be  kept  evenly  moist,  never  soggy, 
in  a typical  potting  soil  — for  example 
equal  parts  of  loam,  sand,  and  peat.  Hu- 
musy  soils  are  preferred,  as  they  make  a 
lighter  pot  to  hang  and  dry  out  more  slowly, 
as  well  as  suiting  the  plant.  It  likes  a high 
humidity,  as  do  most  house  plants,  and 
likes  warmth — that  is  60°  F.  at  night  and 
not  above  80°  by  day. 

As  to  light,  the  Ruellia  will  be  happiest 
with  full  winter  sun,  but  the  rest  of  the  year 
it  needs  some  shade  but  still  a bright  spot. 
Technically  1000  to  3000  foot  candles.  The 
plant  will  tell  the  grower  when  the  light  is 
right;  the  more  light,  the  more  color,  but  full 
summer  sun  will  stunt  the  plant  and  growth 
will  stop.  Ruellia  enjoys  a summer  outside 
hung  under  a porch  or  tree  canopy. 

R.  makoyana  does  not  need  heavy  fertil- 
izer, but  requires  a regular  program.  I use 
the  time-release  Osmocote  as  recom- 
mended. 

Ruellia  is  such  a prolific  bloomer  that  it 
sets  some  seed,  and  this  seed  is  very  easy  to 
sprout.  I discovered  this  when  I found  a few 
seedlings,  in  the  damp  pebbles  and  the  soil 
of  other  plants,  that  were  under  the  hanging 
basket  of  Ruellia.  Now  I have  learned  to 
look  for  the  seeds  whenever  I want  to  start 
a new  pot  for  myself  or  friends,  and  have 
never  been  without  fresh  young  plants 
coming  along,  at  no  expense  whatever. 
After  the  flowers  drop,  the  styles  remain, 
hair-like  and  over  an  inch  long.  This  makes 
it  easy  to  check  for  any  ovaries  that  were 
fertilized  and  are  swelling  to  maturity.  After 
a few  months  the  capsule  will  drop  away 
and  open,  spilling  dark,  disc-shaped  seeds. 
Other  Ruellia  are  reproduced  by  cuttings, 
and  R.  makoyana  probably  could  be  also. 


but  I have  never  had  occasion  to  try.  Spring 
and  summer  would  be  the  season  to  start 
them. 

I have  never  had  any  insect  or  disease 
problem  except  mealy  bug,  which  I treat 
with  alcohol  if  I find  it  early  enough — 
otherwise  Malathion  or  Orthene.  It  is  said 
to  spot  if  chilled  and  to  be  susceptible  to  red 
spider.  Like  any  heavy  bloomer,  Ruellia 
does  litter,  dropping  spent  flowers  and 
leaves.  But  look  for  the  silver  lining:  those 
free  seeds. 


Ruellia  makoyana  is  a gem  of  a house 
plant.  The  plant  itself  has  a natural  full 
graceful  shape,  each  leaf  an  ornament.  It 
blooms  with  no  prompting  over  an  ex- 
tended period,  at  a time  of  year  when  bloom 
is  scarce.  And  the  flowers  glow  in  the  light 
as  the  sun  comes  low  in  the  winter  and 
streams  into  my  south  window — a color  so 
bright  and  cheerful  it  makes  it  a little  easier 
to  wait  the  long  months  until  spring.  The 
_ plant  is  adaptable  and  vigorous  and  easy  to 
= please.  I hope  more  people  will  make  the 
j acquantance  of  my  tempting  little  stranger. 
h It  has  earned  a place  as  an  old  friend  of 
£ mine. 

rt> 

"3 
3* 

3 

H 
=r 

■p 
3 


SOURCES 

Logee’s  Greenhouses 
55  North  Street 
Danielson,  CT  06239 
(203)  774-8038 

Cat.  $3,  minimun  order  S10  plus  shipping 

Russell  Gardens 
600  New  Road 
Churchville,  PA  18966 
(215)  322-4799 
Retail  only,  no  catalog 


Martha  Darlington  is  enjoying  her  two-year  old 
lean-to  greenhouse  which  enables  her  to  grow 
winter-blooming  plants,  to  round  out  her  year- 
round  gardening  pleasure. 


AN  INVITATION  TO  PLANT  SOCIETIES 
send  us  your  plans  for  1989 


We  will  publish  information  about  one  major  sale  and  one  major  event  for  each  area  plant  society 
from  March  1 , 1 989  through  Feb.  1 990.  Send  the  information  to  Carol  Lukens  (Green  Scene.  325 
Walnut  St.,  Phila.  PA  19106).  Please  use  the  following  format: 

NAME  OF  CHAPTER  AND  SOCIETY  : 

Event  #1 

Name  of  Event  

Dates  of  Event  

Time  of  Event  

Location  (full  address) 


Event  #2 


Fee,  if  any 

Name  of  contact 
person 

Address 


33 


the  green  scene  / november  1988 


GIVE  A HAPPY  HOLIDAY 

with  a GREEN  SCENE  Subscription  to  your  family  or  friends.  A BARGAIN 
AT  $8.50: 

SEND  SUBSCRIPTION  TO:  FROM: 


Return  check  and  coupon  to  Green  Scene,  PHS 

325  Walnut  Street 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106 


classified  ads 


JANCO  GREENHOUSES 

by 

C & 0 BUILDERS,  INC. 
Radnor,  Pa.  19087 
215-527-3937 


AFRICAN  VIOLETS 

100  varieties,  standard,  miniature,  trailers,  vari- 
egated types.  Greenhouses  open  daily.  Cultural, 
historical  book,  $4.95  ppd.  Color  catalog  50c 
TINARI  GREENHOUSES,  2325  Valley  Road, 
Huntingdon  Valley,  PA  19006.  947-0144. 


FALL  PLANTING 

We  are  digging  conifers 
(Yew,  Juniper,  Pine,  Hemlock  ) 
for  autumn. 

FOR  CHRISTMAS 

Or-  select  now  your  balled  and  burlapped  trees 
for  Christmas  from  thousands  of  sheared  Colo- 
rado Spruce,  Douglas  Fir,  White  Pine.  We’ll  hold 
them  for  Christmas  pickup. 

Please  call  for  an  appointment  to  select  your 
stock  and/or  to  receive  our  complete  list  of  stock 
and  prices. 

And — visit  us  after  Thanksgiving!  Opening 
December  3rd  through  December  23rd  every 
day  except  Mondays  from  9 am  to  4 pm.  Cut,  or 
choose-and-cut  Douglas,  Spruce,  Fraser  Fir, 
White  Pine  or  Scotch  Pine. 

Be  selective  and  proud  of  your  tree.  You  surely 
will  if  it’s  a SHANAHAN-GROWN  CHRISTMAS 
TREE.  Award  winners  at  state  and  national 
competitions. 

SHANAHAN’S  TREE  FARMS 
and 

NURSERIES 

RD  2 BOX  73B 
HONEY  BROOK  PA  19344 
(215)  273-3318 

Water  lilies,  darting  goldfish  and  splashing 
water  provide  you  with  a soothing  atmosphere,  a 
pleasant  focal  point  in  your  garden.  The  1988 
LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS  catalogue  fea- 
tures all  it  takes  to  create  your  own  garden  oasis, 
including  the  pool. 

The  Lilypons  catalogue  and  seasonal  newslet- 
ters $5.00 

Catalogue  by  priority  mail  $6.75. 

LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS 

5300  Scenic  Road 
P.O.  Box  10 

Lilypons,  MD  21717-0010 
(301)  874-5133 


CHINA  — Find  your  discontinued  English  bone 
china.  Aynsley,  Coalport,  Minton,  Royal  Doul- 
ton,  Royal  Worcester,  Spode,  Wedgewood. 

VAN  NESS  CHINA  CO. 

1124-H  Fairway  Dr.,  Waynesboro,  VA  22980 
703-942-2827.  Appointment  only. 


Forest  and  Meadow  Restoration 

Integrating  Landscape  Design,  Sculptural  proc- 
ess and  ecology.  Wildlands  can  be  healthier, 
more  beautiful  and  more  accessible.  Working 
with  the  existing  vegetation,  Sere  unlocks  the 
inherent  beauty  of  each  site 

Creating  and  framing  new  views. 

Designing  trails  in  the  forest  or  meadow. 
Removing  destructive  vines  and  invasive 
species. 

Allowing  the  native  landscape  to  rebound  and 
flourish. 

SERE  LTD. 

Suite  450,  1 150  First  Avenue 
King  of  Prussia,  PA  1 9406 
(215)  848-5099 
Call  for  our  brochure. 

Residential,  Commercial  and 
Public  Landscapes. 


ENVIRENS,  INC. 
WETLAND  CREATION  AND 
RESTORATION  SPECIALISTS 

also  specializing  in: 
•Backyard  habitats 
•Stream  restoration 
•Forest  replacement 
•Design  and  installation  for  commercial 
and  residential  projects 
Let  us  bring  nature  to  you! 

Envirens,  Inc. 

9704  William  Parks  Rd. 
Cockesyville,  MD  21030 
(301)  683-1015 


CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
HARDY  AZALEAS  AND  RHODODENDRONS 

Northern  Grown  and  Acclimated 
Proven  Hardy  Without  Winter  Protection 
Big  sizes!  Big  selection!  Personal  service! 
Two-Year  Catalog  Subscription: 

$2.00  (deductible) 

CARLSON’S  GARDENS 

Box  305-GS1 188,  South  Salem,  NY  10590 
(914)763-5958 


DAVID  BROTHERS 

Landscape  Architects,  Builders 
and  Nurserymen 

Providing  the  Fine  Art  of  Garden  Construction 
and  Landscape  Restoration. 

QUALITY  SERVICE  WITH  COURTESY 
AND  RELIABILITY. 

EDGAR  and  KIM  DAVID 
247-2992 584-1550 

THE  GARDENS  OF  IRELAND:  July  1989 

An  extraordinary  12-day  tour  of  public  and  pri- 
vate homes  and  gardens  in  southern  Ireland: 
Mount  Congreve,  Kilmokea,  Powerscourt, 
Mount  Usher  and  other  horticultural  wonders 
with  expert  guide  Christopher  Woods.  All  ac- 
commodations in  superb  hotels.  Sponsored  by 
The  Wilmington  Garden  Center,  Delaware's 
nonprofit  horticultural  society.  Call  302-658- 
1913  for  a detailed  brochure. 


LARGEST  SELECTION  OF  RHODODEN- 
DRONS & AZALEAS  on  the  East  Coast  with 
many  new  varieties.  Also  Kalmia,  Pieris,  and 
many  companion  plants.  Mail  order  catalog,  $2. 
ROSLYN  NURSERY,  Dept.  GS,  Box  69,  Roslyn, 
NY  11576. 

WOODLANDERS 

RARELY  OFFERED  DIXIE  NATIVES  AND 
INTRODUCTIONS,  woody  herbaceous,  all 
nursery-grown.  Many  hardy  northward.  Send 
50c  postage  for  mail-order  list. 

WOODLANDERS  GS, 

1128  Colleton  Ave.,  Aiken,  SC  29801. 

Williamsburg  Swags,  Kissing  Balls,  Herbal 
Wreaths,  Unique  Gifts. 

Herbal  gift  basket  including  plants,  book,  pot- 
pourri and  delicious  herb  dips  and  teas  trimmed 
for  your  holiday  giving.  Call  to  order. 

We  grow  our  own  beautiful  Christmas  Trees. 
Visit  our  plant  loft  for  fresh  herb  plants,  beautiful 
bayleaf,  jasmine,  bird  of  paradise.  Many  unusual 
and  hard  to  find  plants. 

Christmas  Open  House  December  3rd  & 4th. 

Triple  Oaks  Nursery  and  Florist 

Route  47  Delsea  Drive 
Franklinville,  NJ  08322 
609-694-4272 

OPEN  7 DAYS 

Less  than  45  minutes  from  Center  City  Philadel- 
phia. Walt  Whitman  Bridge  to  Rte.  42,  Franklin- 
ville exit  at  Turnersville  to  Rte.  47. 


MONTGOMERY’S  CHRISTMAS 
WONDERLAND  1988 

Montgomery’s  welcomes  you  to  visit  our  1988 
Christmas  Wonderland  staged  in  our  renovated 
Chester  County  barn  and  20-acre  nursery  in 
lovely  historic  Chester  Springs,  Pa.  A unique 
family  Christmas  experience  awaits  you  — come 
enjoy  a free  cup  of  hot  wassail  as  you  browse 
through  our  fabulously  decorated  two  hundred 
year  old  barn  filled  with  imaginative  gifts  and 
decorating  ideas  from  around  the  world.  Your 
children  will  enjoy  visiting  our  stable  of  live  farm 
animals  and  meeting  Santa  in  person  while  you 
select  your  perfect  Christmas  tree,  wreaths, 
roping  and  greens  from  our  Evergreen  Forest. 
No  Christmas  is  complete  without  Montgomery’s 
traditional  Hanging  Poinsettia  Basket  from  our 
Christmas  greenhouses. 

Come  early  this  season;  we  guarantee  you’ll 
come  back  again  and  again! 

Philadelphia  Flower  Show  MAJOR  AWARD 
WINNER  1988,  1987,  1986,  1984,  1982. 

ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY 
LANDSCAPE  NURSERY 

Our  Only  Location: 

Route  113,  Chester  Springs,  PA 

363-2477 

Open  7 Days  a Week 

LINDA  CORSON 
LANDSCAPE  DESIGN 

• Consulting 

• Plans 

• Supervision 

Member  ASLA 

Registered  Landscape  Architect 
215-247-5619 

LOOKING  FOR  A BETTER  POSITION  IN 
HORTICULTURE? 

Employers  are  seeking  trained 
Horticultural  help. 

If  you  are  considering  a job  change,  looking  for 
your  first  job,  or  just  want  to  know  what  is  avail- 
able, give  us  a call.  We  offer  a range  of  job 
placement  services  including  resume  prepara- 
tion and  can  help  find  the  right  position  for  you. 
Contact: 

L.V.  HOWLEY,  VANTINE  ASSOCIATES 
187  Buckshire  Drive 
Holland,  PA  18966 
(215)  364-5669 

PAPERWHITES  available  in  10  different  types 
including  the  Israeli  varieties!  Send  $1  for  price 
list  which  includes  the  above  and  descriptions 
of  many  more  daffodil  cultivars.  THE  DAFFO- 
DIL MART,  Brent  & Becky  Heath,  Rt.  3,  Box 
794-GS,  Gloucester,  V A 23061 . 


OUTDOOR  FURNITURE  SPECIALISTS 
THE  HILL  CO. 

An  outstanding  selection  of  outdoor  furniture  and 
accessories.  Featuring  select  pieces  from  Molla 
and  introducing  the  Winterthur  Collection. 

8615  Germantown  Ave., 

Chestnut  Hill  247-7600. 


Crassula  Arborescens  (Jade  Plant) 

18  yr.  magnificent  specimen  3 ft.  wide,  3 ft.  high 
in  12"  pot,  $115.  R.  Walker  (215)  592-6143. 


NEAL  SHAFFER 

Wonderful  Wedding  Flowers 
Elegant  English  Gardenflowers 
Sumptuous,  Scrumptious  Flowers 

PARTYFLOWERS,  LTD.  925-3618 

By  Appointment 

Workshop:  2737  Cambridge  St.,  Phila.,  19130 


AMERICAN  CONIFER  SOCIETY 

Interested  in  dwarf  conifers  and  their  companion 
plants?  Join  the  ACS:  Quarterly  Bulletin,  Annual 
summer  meetings  held  all  over  the  U.S.  Tax 
deductible  dues  $20.00  annually.  Write:  AMERI- 
CAN CONIFER  SOCIETY,  c/o  Maxine 
Schwarz,  ACS  Secretary,  P.O.  Box  242,  Sev- 
erna  Park,  MD  21146. 


We  cordially  invite  you  to  experience  the 
Holiday  World  at  Waterloo  Gardens 
Devon  and  Exton 

Waterloo  Gardens  carries  usual  and  unusual 
varieties  of  Pointsettias,  Cyclamen, 
Jerusalem  Cherries,  Ornamental  Peppers, 
Orchids,  Bonsai,  Topiaries,  as  well  as  a 
wonderful  selection  of  Culinary  Herb  Plants. 
Visit  Delaware  Valley’s  Largest 
Christmas  Shop 

Cut  Live,  and  Permanent  Trees,  Wreaths, 
Greens  and  Garlands 

See  our  Trim  a Tree  Shop  with  Imported  and 
Domestic  Ornaments,  Lights,  Tree  Tops, 
Tree  Skirts  and  Stockings 

Christmas  Collectibles  from 
around  the  world: 

Duncan  Royale  Santas  Series  I and  II, 
Duncan  Royale  Clowns,  Annalee, 
Byers’  Choice  Carolers, 

Christi  Character  Carolers,  Lighted  Houses, 
Tomtees,  Lasting  Endearments, 

June  McKenna  Collectible  Santas,  German, 
Ulbricht  and  Steinbach  Nutcrackers  and 
Smokers,  Russian  Nesting  Dolls,  Collectible 
Santas,  Nativity  Sets,  and  German  Pyramids. 

See  our  Selection  of  the  finest 
Gift  Collectibles: 

Herend  Porcelain,  Lladro  Figurines, 
Halcyon  Days  Enamel  Boxes, 
Russian  Lacquer  Boxes, 

Limoges  Porcelain  Boxes, 

Blue  Canton  by  Mottahedeh,  Art  Glass  and 
Waterford  Crystal. 

Visit  Delaware  Valley's  Largest  Gift  and 
Garden  Center 

— WATERLOO  GARDENS  — 

Exton  - 200  N.  Whitford  Rd.  (215)363-0800 
Devon  - 136  Lancaster  Ave.  (215)293-0800 


DISTINCTIVE  PLANTS  for  your  garden  and 
landscape.  Scarce,  unusual  and  many  old  favor- 
ites. Well  established  in  4”  pots,  ready  for  you  to 
grow  on.  Free  catalog. 

APPALACHIAN  GARDENS 

P.O.  Box  82 

Waynesboro,  PA  17268-0082 
(717)  762-4312 


HERBS 

Christmas  Open  House: 

Nov  19,  10  am-4  pm 
Nov  20,  Noon-4  pm 

Your  complete  Christmas  Shop 

Live  and  cut  trees 
Custom  wreaths 

THE  DILLY  DUO  HERBS 

2015  Potshop  Rd. 
Norristown,  PA  19403 
(215)  539-7371 


15-YEAR  INDEX  FOR  GREEN  SCENE 

A 1 5-year  Green  Scene  Index  organized  by  title 
(with  key  words  cross-referenced)  and  authors 
is  available  for  $8.50.  A must  for  librarians  and 
writers  and  invaluable  for  gardeners.  Send 
check  to  Green  Scene  Index,  PHS,  325  Walnut 
Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


Come  to  J.  FRANKLIN  STYER  NURSERIES’ 
YULE  TREE  SHOP  for  all  the  trimmings  to  make 
it  a “Country  Christmas."  Beautiful  ornaments, 
lights  and  ribbons,  fresh  made  wreaths, 
evergreen  boughs  and  trees. 

Gifts  galore  — fine  garden  tools,  pottery  and 
plants  as  well  as  the  largest  and  most  unique 
collection  of  garden  ornaments  in  the  Delaware 
Valley.  Bird  feeders  and  seed;  garden  lights  and 
the  ever-popular,  one-size-fits-all  gift  certificate. 

J.  Franklin  Styer  Nurseries 
US  Rte  1 

Concordville,  PA 
215-459-2400 

Daily  9-6  Sunday  12-6 

Open  Thursday  and  Friday  evenings  until  9pm! 

(Thanksgiving  through  Christmas) 

Be  sure  it’s  the  original 

Since  1890 

FOR  SALE  - Unique  Property 
Gardener’s  Delight  - Spacious  brick  twin  with 
stained  oak  trim,  slate  roof  and  wrap  around 
porch  on  .35  acre  in  Berwyn;  4 bdrm.,  1e  bath, 
deck,  patio.  Sunny,  southern  exposure.  Speci- 
men trees  & shrubs,  1 000  sq.  ft.  organic  garden, 
herb  garden,  perennials,  fruit  trees,  mature 
shade  trees,  rhododendron.  Prime  location  1 bl. 
from  Paoli  Local  RR  (20  min.  to  Phila.),  easy 
access  to  Rt.  202,  Turnpike  & Schuylkill.  T/E 
schools.  $139,900.  Must  see.  Call  Weichert  Re- 
altors, Judy  Ascah,  687-4400  for  appt. 

LARGE  TREES 

Shade 

Conifers 

Rare  Ornamentals 
Bought,  Sold,  Transplanted 

Tree  Transfers,  Inc. 

(215)  635-2310 

DAFFODILS  FOR  SHOW  & GARDEN:  a color 
identification  guide  featuring  106  color  pictures 
of  96  commercially  available  daffodils;  has  text 
with  helpful  gardening  cultural  information;  great 
“stocking  stuffer”  for  your  favorite  gardener! 
Send  $5.  Price  list  of  425  cultivars  also  avail- 
able for  $1.  THE  DAFFODIL  MART,  Brent  & 
Becky  Heath,  Rt.  3,  Box  794-GS,  Gloucester,  V A 
23061. 

FOR  A MEMORABLE  HOLIDAY  SEASON 

Discover  our  unique  Christmas  ornaments  and 
gifts  for  your  gardening  friends.  Decorative  pots, 
statuary  and  garden  ornaments,  fountains  for 
indoors  or  out,  ornamental  water  faucets.  Select 
from  our  rare  exotic  tropicals  including  winter 
flowering  begonias,  Christmas  cactus,  and  or- 
chids suitable  for  the  home.  Accent  the  holidays 
with  our  seasonal  flowering  plants  and  center- 
pieces.  Greenhouses  open  year-round:  Monday 
through  Saturday,  10-5.  Near  Jenkintown,  12 
miles  from  Center  City. 

Most  Inspired  Garden  Shop  in 
the  Delaware  Valley 

MEADOWBROOK  FARM 

1633  Washington  La., 
Meadowbrook,  PA  19046 
887-5900 


Creative  quality  Trellis  and  Lattices  (fixed  or 
movable),  also  exterior  lights,  and  speakers. 
Send  $1 .00  for  a catalog  to:  Simple’s  Creative 
Light,  Trellises,  Speaker,  Box  69G,  R.D.#2, 
Honey  Brook,  PA  19344. 

Mushroom  Soil  Mulch 

Excellent  for  the  garden  & flower  beds.  From 
$8.75  a yard-zone  1 , to  $1 5.55  a yard-zone  5, 80 
miles  max.  From  Telford,  PA.  Fall  is  prime  time, 
call  today: 

Mushroom  Soil  Distributor 
(215)  340-0945 


HE  MAGAZINE  OF  THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  • JAN./FEB.  1989 


Hydrangea  ‘Snow  Queen’ 

A winner  of  PHS’s  Styer  Award 
of  Garden  Merit. 


in  this  issue 


Front  Cover 

Hydrangea  ‘Snow  Queen’ 
photographed  in  June. 

photo  by  Larry  Albee 


Back  Cover 

Malus  ‘Donald  Wyman’ 

photographed  in  October. 

photo  by  Larry  Albee 


3.  Maintaining  the  Victory 
Over  Decay  and  Neglect 

Jean  Byrne 

4.  Jimmy  Paolini:  A Prince 
Among  Green  & Growing 
Subjects 

Ken  Radeloff 

8.  Six  Superior  Plants:  1989 
Winners  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society’s  Styer 
Award  of  Garden  Merit 

Jane  G.  Pepper  & Judith  Zuk 

16.  Jake  Loses  His  Garden 

Florence  Ann  Roberts 

19.  A Garden  of  Brotherly 
Love  Yields  Remarkable 
Results 

A dr  a Fairman 

23.  Small  Seedlings  Thrive 
in  Bubbles  Indoors  and 
Outdoors 

Betty  Barr  Mackey 


25.  Bambi  Go  Home 

Helen  Tower  Brunet 

29.  Arrivals  & Departures 

Susan  W.  Plimpton 

31.  Growing  Interests 

32.  Hotline 

Kathy  Mills 

33.  Letters  to  the  Editor 

34.  Classified  Advertising 


OOOOOPS.  CORRECTION: 
November/December  Green 
Scene  Page  13,  column  1.  Thanks 
to  Judy  Zuk  for  spotting  incorrect 
reference  to  Ilex  x meserveae,  the 
blue  hollies,  as  a new  species. 
They  are  new  hybrids.  Judy  Zuk  is 
the  director  of  The  Scott  Arbore- 
tum of  Swarthmore  College. 


Volume  17,  Number  3 January/February  1989 

THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY 

325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon 

Robert  S.  Ryan  / Chair  Joseph  P.  Robinson  / Editorial  Assistant 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byrne  / Editor  Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 

PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 

Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Adele  G.  Greenfield  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Steven  A.  Frowine  Natalie  Kempner 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell,  Baxendells'  Graphic 

Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 

Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 

THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580),  Volume  17,  No.  3,  published  bimonthly,  January,  March,  May, 
July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non-profit  membership 
organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription:  $8.50— Single  Copy:  $1.50. 
Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  « POSTMASTER:  Send  address  change  to  THE 
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Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 

OVER  DECAY  AND  NEGLECT 

by  Jean  Byrne 


“With  the  passing  of  the  Route  66s  from  the  map  of 
America  most  of  us  are  forced  to  drive  the  fast 
lanes  and  believe  that  the  world  of  the  individual 
garden  has  vanished  forever.  It  hasn’t.” 

Peter  Loewer,  The  American  Garden,  Simon  & 
Schuster,  New  York,  1988 

“Community  gardens  are  oases  in  a city,  valuable 
in  so  many  ways.  We  are  working  to  preserve  them 
as  a permanent  part  of  the  city.” 

Bruce  Wiggins,  Executive  Director,  Neighborhood 
Gardens  Association  - A Philadelphia  Land  Trust 


This  past  September,  the  PHS  Council 
was  invited  to  visit  several  established 
community  gardens,  and  I relished  the 
interchanges  between  the  experienced  city 
and  suburban  gardeners.  I heard  one 
Council  member  muse  aloud  as  he  looked 
at  a beautiful,  4-foot  high  snow-on-the- 
mountain  shrub  encircling  roses  at  the  Sun 
Circle  Garden  at  17th  and  Westmoreland, 
“1  wonder  why  I never  thought  to  plant  it 
that  way.”  Notebooks  were  out  as  gar- 
deners exchanged  information  on  when  to 
collect  seeds  for  this  and  when  to  prune 
that. 

Over  the  last  decade  more  than  1,300 
community  flower  and  vegetable  gardens 
along  with  other  gardening  projects  have 


been  established  in  Philadelphia.  In  1987, 
more  than  4,000  families  cultivated  vege- 
table gardens  growing  almost  $3  million  in 
produce.  Philadelphia  has  one  of  the  most 
concentrated  community  greening  efforts 
in  an  American  city. 

On  page  16  of  this  issue  Florence  Ann 
Roberts  tells  the  story  of  her  son  Jake’s  first 
gardening  experience  in  a community  gar- 
den, which  was  bulldozed  when  he  was 
three  years  old.  He  did  not  like  losing  his 
garden,  but  his  mother  found  a spot  on  the 
parking  lot  and  a tiny  spot  to  plant  behind 
her  home.  Not  every  city  child  is  so  for- 
tunate to  experience  the  joys  of  picking 
fresh  raspberries  and  tomatoes. 

When  you  talk  to  the  Philadelphia  Green 
garden  coordinators  about  the  community 
gardens,  they  will  tell  you  that  the  gardens 
are  the  lives  of  many  of  these  people.  They 
heal  body  and  spirit;  it’s  where  the  young 
first  learn  cooperation  and  the  older  re- 
claim a sense  of  community;  the  gardens 
create  an  opportunity  to  pass  on  traditions 
from  homelands  (Korea,  Puerto  Rico, 
Poland,  Italy,  for  example)  and  generations 
cross  over  to  learn  from  each  other. 

The  beauty  of  these  gardens  are  a mixed 
blessing.  They  improve  property  and  in- 
crease real  estate  values.  Yet  what  the 
people  struggled  to  create  engenders  the 


possibility  of  losing  the  gardens  to  builders. 

Recently  the  Neighborhood  Gardens 
Association  - A Philadelphia  Land  Trust, 
was  established  to  preserve  the  community 
gardens  and  other  community  managed 
open  space,  primarily  in  low-to-moderate 
income  neighborhoods  in  Philadelphia. 
This  non-profit  organization  was  founded 
with  funding  from  the  Pew  Charitable 
Trusts  and  PHS.  The  board  of  directors 
includes  community  gardeners  and  leaders, 
along  with  representatives  from  PHS,  from 
the  business  community  and  government. 
Named  in  honor  of  Louise  Bush-Brown’s 
window  box  program  of  the  ’60s,  The 
Neighborhood  Gardens  Association  is 
working  with  gardeners,  landowners,  the 
community  and  City  agencies  to  preserve 
several  established  gardens  threatened  by 
development. 

NGA  executive  director  Bruce  Wiggins 
says  “NGA  hopes  to  acquire  properties  and 
work  with  the  gardening  groups  to  preserve 
them  over  the  long  term.”  They  are  seeking 
funding,  gifts  of  land  as  well  as  experienced 
help  on  committees. 

If  you  are  interested  in  learning  more 
about  the  program,  please  contact  Bruce 
Wiggins,  Executive  Director;  NGA,  325 
Chestnut  Street,  Suite  800,  Philadelphia, 
PA  19106-2777  (phone  215-625-8264). 


3 


the  green  scene  / January  1 989 


MY  PAOL 

nee  Among  Gi 
twing  Subject 


i Radeloff 


After  a lifetime  of  dedication  to  growing  plants , the  founder  of  Waterloo 
Gardens  continues  to  experiment.  He  still  has  a few  projects  on  the  boards. 


“I  once  grew  a fuchsia  five  feet  wide.  It 
wouldn’t  fit  through  the  greenhouse  door.  I 
wish  you  had  eyes  — if  I could  give  you  eyes 
— to  go  back  then  and  see  it.  You  wouldn’t 
believe  it.” 

“I  believe  you,  Jim,”  I said.  “How’d  you 
do  it?” 

The  nurseryman  looked  stealthfully  from 
side  to  side,  past  the  prize-winning  Carissa 
standards  and  around  the  elegant  Roman 
topiary  Eugenia  Maybe  there  were  hostile 
ears  among  the  bonsai,  eager  to  hear  and 
steal  away  his  lifelong  cache  of  gardening 
secrets. 

“I  fertilized  with  urine,”  he  said,  “mixed 
with  water,  one  part  to  sixteen.” 

“What?”  I shouted,  astonished. 

“You  don’t  believe  me,”  Kennet’?  That’s 
what  I fed  that  fuchsia  with.  I tried  lots  of 
different  dilution  rates.”* 

“I  believe  you,”  I laughed.  I loved  talking 
to  Jimmy  Paolini.  Being  with  him. 

The  brilliant  February  sunshine,  diffused 
by  the  greenhouse’s  double  glazing,  fell 


*Urine  is  high  in  nitrogen  and  has  been  used  for 
centuries  in  gardening  and  farming. 


upon  us  and  upon  the  hundreds  of  bonsai, 
topiaries  and  standards.  I had  seen  many  of 
these  dozens  of  times  before  — had  even 
repotted  some  of  them  when  I worked  for 
Jimmy  on  Saturdays,  hoping  to  learn  some- 
thing, to  be  infected  a little  by  his  horticul- 
tural savvy.  Still,  looking  with  one  eye  at  the 
pair  of  twisted  olive  trees  he  has  been 
training  for  30  years,  and  with  the  other  at 
this  simple,  round  man  standing  among  the 
trophies  of  his  genius,  I felt  once  again  that 
strange  sense  of  awe,  a palpable  perception 
of  loving  care,  of  self-discipline  and  hard, 
hard  work. 

“Kennet’,”  he  said.  “I  want  two  more 
years.  I wanna  make  one  t’ousand  topiary 
and  standard,  and,  maybe  two  t’ousand 
bonsai,  you  know  — nice!  — and  then  I’ll 
say,  ‘Thank  you,  God,  for  letting  me  finish 
my  work.  I’m  ready  to  go  now,  wherever 
you  wanna  send  me.’  ” 

I turned  away.  My  old  friend’s  honesty, 
his  directness,  the  strength  of  his  will  once 
again  touched  me  deeply. 

James  Paolini  was  bom  at  Windgap, 
Pennsylvania,  on  December  13,  1906. 
When  he  was  six  years  old,  his  father. 


Joseph,  returned  to  his  native  Italy,  taking 
Jimmy  and  his  younger  sister  and  brother 
with  him.  World  War  I was  brewing  in 
Europe.  When  Joseph  was  drafted  into  the 
Italian  army,  James  was  placed  in  the  care 
of  his  great  uncle,  a wealthy  land  owner. 
The  child  began  working  on  his  guardian’s 
farm,  cleaning  the  horse  bams.  His  great 
uncle’s  daughter  was  betrothed  to  an  enter- 
prising and  parsimonious  fellow,  a nursery- 
man. Soon  after  the  marriage,  little  Jim  was 
invited  to  go  to  work  full  time  pulling  weeds 
and  watering  at  the  new  family  nursery.  He 
soon  discovered  that  he  greatly  preferred 
tending  his  second  cousin’s  nursery  stock  to 
sweeping  out  his  great  uncle’s  stables. 
Jimmy  was  seven  years  old. 

an  entrepreneur  gets  his  start 

By  the  age  of  14,  Jim  had  become 
foreman  on  the  landscape  crew,  supervising 
workers  twice  and  three  times  his  age,  but 
earning  a wage  that  didn’t  provide  him 
enough  to  buy  his  girlfriend  a water  ice.  He 
quit  the  family  business,  worked  briefly  in 
the  public  park  in  the  town  of  Viterbo,  then 
borrowed  some  money  and  began  selling 


the  green  scene  / january  1989 


(Left)  A strawberry  jar  full  of  flowers  and  the 
beloved  poodle  ‘Tina’  provide  the  perfect 
setting  for  Jimmy’s  conversation  about  his 
plans  for  next  spring’s  garden. 

(Right)  Is  Jimmy  Paolini  proud  of  his  prize- 
winning Carissa  standard?  What  do  you  think? 

citrus  fruit  trees  and  fancy  palm  trees  on  his 
own.  He  was  1 8 years  old. 

When  James  discovered  that  his  silent 
business  partner  was  stealing  all  their  profits 
from  the  strongbox  for  which  they  both 
owned  a key,  he  decided  to  take  his  sister’s 
offer  to  facilitate  his  return  to  the  United 
States.  Settling  in  Bethlehem,  Pennsylvania, 
Jimmy  went  to  work  at  a concrete  plant.  “It 
was  hell,”  he  remembers.  “You  breathed  in 
concrete  dust,  and  when  you  spit,  you  spit 
bullets!  If  I had  the  money,  I’da  gone  back  to 
Italy  in  a second!” 


Roberts  LeBoutillier,  Jimmy’s  son- 
in-law  and  the  present  owner  of 
Waterloo  Gardens , has  purchased  the 
rights  to  this  new  plant  and  expects  to 
make  it  commercially  available  within 
two  years. 


Instead  he  moved  to  Philadelphia  and 
went  to  work  in  Fairmount  Park,  propa- 
gating shrubs  and  trees  and  supervising  1 0 
men.  Jim  could  speak  no  English. 

When  Sarah  Ausenried,  a Delancey  Street 
resident  with  a country  home  in  Devon, 
Pennsylvania,  advertised  for  an  “Italian 
gardener,”  Jim  triumphed  over  hundreds  of 
applicants  and  landed  the  job.  It  was  in  that 
estate’s  greenhouse  that  he  grew  those 
gigantic  fuchsias,  using  the  earthy.  Old 
World  fertilizing  technique  he  rarely  has 
revealed. 

When  the  Devon  job  ended,  Jimmy 
moved  briefly  to  Litchfield,  Connecticut.  In 
spite  of  instant  success  that  summer,  land- 
scaping 10  new  homes  in  that  affluent 
section  of  the  country,  he  decided  to  return 
to  Devon.  “Kennet’,”  he  tells  me,  “somehow 
I knew:  Devon  is  my  place!” 

The  year  was  1941.  Ronald  Greinberg,  a 
German  dahlia  grower  and  hybridizer,  was 
running  a tiny  greenhouse  business  out  of  a 
rented  property  on  the  30-acre  Parker 
Estate  in  Strafford.  When  Herr  Greinberg 
became  ill,  he  asked  his  friend,  James 
Paolini,  to  take  over  the  operation  for  him. 
Soon  thereafter,  the  German  floriculturist 
died.  His  widow  and  James  decided  to  carry 
on  the  small  business,  naming  it  “Waterloo 
Gardens”  after  Jimmy’s  little  greenhouse 
and  garden  on  Waterloo  Road  in  Devon. 
Jim  soon  bought  the  business  (selling  price 

continued 


the  green  scene  I January  1989 


JIMMY  PAOLINI 


$ 1 ,000)  and  moved  it  to  his  newly  acquired 
property  at  the  comer  of  Lancaster  Pike  and 
Devon  Boulevard.  A humble  origin  for 
what  is  now  one  of  the  largest  and  surely 
one  of  the  most  horticulturally  sophisticated 
nurseries  and  garden  centers  on  the  East 
Coast. 

Jimmy  introduces  a new  plant 
Jim  retired  from  the  retail  nursery  busi- 
ness in  1971.  Since  then  he  has  attended  to 
growing  and  training  bonsai  and  topiary 
specimens  in  the  five  greenhouses  behind 
his  home  on  Waterloo  Road,  and  to  propa- 
gating rare  plants.  Among  these  is  a brand 
new  Taxus  — tentatively  named  ‘J.P. 
Prostrata’  — which  Jim  discovered  growing 


as  a sport  on  a ‘Capitata’  yew  in  his  Exton 
nursery  nearly  20  years  ago.  It  is  a low- 
growing  shrub  similar  in  habit  to  T.  baccata 
‘Repandens’  but  much,  much  hardier. 
The  parent  plant  is  about  30  inches  high  by 
10  feet  wide  after  20  years.  Roberts 
LeBoutillier,  Jimmy’s  son-in-law  and  the 
present  owner  of  Waterloo  Gardens,  has 
purchased  the  rights  to  this  new  plant  and 
expects  to  make  it  commercially  available 
within  two  years.  In  addition  to  serving  as  a 
ground  cover  for  large  areas  and  embank- 
ments, ‘J.P.  Prostrata’  would  also  function 
nicely  as  a specimen  plant  in  the  home 
landscape  or  as  a beautiful,  hardy  and 
disease-resistant  low  hedge.  I look  forward 
to  the  yew  bearing  James  Paolini’s  initials 


becoming  part  of  our  landscape  palette. 

At  the  age  of  82,  a nurseryman  who 
began  working  at  the  age  of  seven  still  puts 
in  a full,  vigorous  day.  His  extraordinary 
competence  and  record  of  accomplishment 
has  not  dulled  the  daily  experience  of 
wonderment  and  delight  he  finds  among  his 
plants.  He  is  like  a father  among  his  chil- 
dren, like  a child  among  his  teachers,  like  a 
prince  among  his  green  and  growing 
subjects. 

I’ve  been  “interviewing”  Jimmy  for  20 
years.  I wish  I had  a dollar  for  every 
question  I’ve  asked  him  to  which  he  has 
responded  with  honesty  and  spontaneity, 
with  passion  and  humor. 

The  other  day  during  a conversation  he 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


told  me,  “I  didn’t  worry  about  my  business.  I 
went  in  business  with  this  as  my  intention 
— to  work  hard,  to  be  honest,  and  to  have 
knowledge.  I had  no  opportunity  to  finish 
first  grade  either  in  Italy  or  in  this  country, 
so  I had  to  get  that  knowledge  another  way, 
by  insistent  ambition,  step  by  step.  That’s 
what  I did,  and  I’m  still  doing  it.” 

He  is,  too.  I hope  he  can  continue  doing  it 
until  he’s  a hundred. 

• 

After  working  for  a large  Chester  County  land- 
scape firm  for  eight  years,  Ken  Radeloff  launched 
his  own  company,  No  Bull  Landscaping,  an 
elusive  professional  gardening  entity  operating 
somewhere  within  the  environs  of  Philadelphia. 


the  green  scene  / January  1 989 


◄ (Left)  A section  of  the  garden  wall  in  summer.  (Right)  Jimmy  says,  “I’m  Italian,  and  I know 

how  to  grow  tomatoes.  Big  deal!”  Jimmy 
moves  on  to  the  next  challenge. 


IX  SUPERIOR  PLANTS 


1989  Winners  of  the 
Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society’s 
Styer  Award  of  Garden 
Merit 

(^)  by  Jane  G.  Pepper  and  Judith  Zuk 


Beauty  berry  (C.  dichotoma)  fruits 
and  flowers  late  summer.  Flowering 
proceeds  down  the  branch  toward 
the  tip. 


[ 


c 


Callicarpa  dichotoma 


9 


Paul  Meyer,  director  of  horticulture  at  the 
Morris  Arboretum,  recommends  cutting 
plants  close  to  the  ground  in  March  or  April 
to  remove  winter  deadwood  and  to  keep 
them  compact. 

Not  a shrub  prone  to  pests  or  diseases, 
C.  dichotoma  grows  best  in  full  sun  to  part 
shade,  making  it  a useful  plant  for  the  shrub 
or  mixed  border.  It  roots  readily  from 
softwood  cuttings,  and  grows  rapidly  to  a 
landscape-sized  plant. 

continued 


For  every  garden  situation  the  range 
of  possible  plants,  if  you  visit  a 
nursery  or  check  a number  of 
catalogs,  may  seem  endless  and 
confusing.  With  the  Styer  Award  of  Garden 
Merit  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural 
Society  aims  to  introduce  gardeners  to 
superior  plants  that  our  evaluators  believe 
will  make  valuable  additions  to  your  land- 
scapes. These  evaluators,  listed  on  page  1 5 , 
are  horticulturists,  nursery  professionals 
and  landscape  architects  who  meet  twice 
each  year  to  discuss  the  entries.  With  their 
combined  wisdom  as  your  guide  we  hope 
to  assist  you  in  making  wise  plant  selec- 
tions. 

Last  year  we  introduced  our  first  award 
winners,  six  outstanding  woody  plants 
selected  from  some  60  entries  that  our 
evaluators  had  tested  over  a 1 0-year  period 
for  their  garden  merits.  This  year  a compact 
crabapple,  a fragrant  winter-blooming 
witch  hazel,  and  a low-growing  deutzia  are 
among  the  plants  honored  by  the  1989 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society’s  Styer 
Award  of  Garden  Merit. 

At  the  end  of  this  article  we’ve  listed  last 
year’s  Award  winners,  where  to  find  infor- 
mation on  purchasing  Styer  Award  winners, 
and  also  how  you  can  enter  a plant  for  a 
Styer  Award.  Please  join  us  in  letting  other 
gardeners  know  of  these  good  plants. 

The  1989  Winners 

Callicarpa  dichotoma 
This  beautyberry  is  an  adaptable  shrub, 
whose  outstanding  feature  is  its  clusters  of 
striking  lavender-colored  berries  in  Sep- 
tember. Since  most  fall  fruits  are  yellow, 


orange  or  red,  Callicarpa  offers  a guaran- 
teed eye-catching  color  alternative  for  the 
garden.  At  the  Scott  Arboretum,  where  this 
plant  has  been  growing  for  over  50  years,  it 
never  fails  to  draw  comments  in  the 
autumn. 

Callicarpa  is  a three-  to  five-foot  tall 
deciduous  shrub,  with  graceful  arching 
branches.  Since  it  flowers  and  fruits  on  new 
wood  it  can  be  pruned  hard  in  the  spring 
and  therefore  kept  to  a manageable  size. 


the  green  scene  I January  1989 


Deutzia  gracilis  ‘Nikko’ 


X 

o 

o 

X 

a. 


May  blooms  at  Longwood  Gardens  in  Kennett  Square,  Pa. 

Here  is  a plant  to  challenge  most  people’s 
image  of  deutzia.  Unlike  the  good  old- 
fashioned  deutzias  of  our  grandmother’s 
gardens,  ‘Nikko’  is  a compact,  fine-textured 
shrub  suited  to  the  small  garden.  A rapid 
grower,  this  cultivar  makes  an  excellent 
groundcover  or  facer  shrub,  with  abundant 
small  white  flowers  that  open  in  late  May  in 
suburban  Philadelphia.  The  fall  color, 
though  not  spectacular,  is  a deep  burgundy. 

‘Nikko’  first  came  to  the  attention  of 
John  Creech  and  Sylvester  March  of  the 
National  Arboretum  in  a Japanese  nursery 
in  1 976,  and  was  introduced  by  the  National 
Arboretum  under  the  name  of  D.  crenata 
nakaiana.  The  original  plant  at  the  Arbor- 
etum is  two  feet  tall  with  a five-foot  spread 
after  10  years.  March  suggests  planting 
these  shrubs  in  a light  afternoon  shade  in 
areas  with  high  summer  temperatures. 
Propagation  methods  include  layering  and 
softwood  cuttings. 


the  green  scene  / january  1989 


Hamamelis  mollis  ‘Pallida’ 


A garden  gem,  with  fragrant  lemon 
yellow  flowers.  Steve  Hutton,  president  of 
the  Conard-Pyle  Company,  enthusiastically 
recommends  this  particular  witch  hazel 
with  its  long  flower  petals  as  ‘a  number  of 
cuts  above  other  selections  of  similar  color.’ 
Seeing  a growing  demand  from  his  cus- 
tomers for  plants  with  off-season  interest, 
Hutton  says  ‘Pallida’  and  the  other  witch 
hazels  offer  ‘a  warm  burst  of  color  at  a time 
of  year  when  everything  else,  including 
people,  is  grey.”  At  the  Morris  Arboretum 
‘Pallida’  began  to  bloom  in  1988  on  Feb- 
ruary 1 , reached  its  peak  during  the  third 
week  of  February,  and  finished  blooming 
in  mid-March. 

‘Pallida,’  as  with  other  witch  hazels,  can 
only  be  propagated  by  grafting,  so  it  may 
be  difficult  to  find  in  nurseries.  It  is  ulti- 
mately a large  shrub,  growing  to  15  feet 
tall.  Landscape  architect  William  H. 
Frederick  has  very  effectively  espaliered 

the  green  scene  / January  1 989 


Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens,  Winterthur,  Delaware. 


this  cultivar  on  a wall  at  his  Delaware 
home,  where  it  captures  the  warmth  of  the 
winter  sun.  If  you  can’t  fit  one  in  your 
garden,  take  a winter  stroll  through  the 
Morris  Arboretum  (Chestnut  Hill,  Pa.),  the 
Scott  Arboretum  (Swarthmore,  Pa.), 
Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens  (Wil- 
mington, De.),  or  the  National  Arboretum 
(Washington,  D.C.)  and  enjoy  its  fragrant 
display.  ^ 

continued 


photo  by  R.W.  Thomas  photo  by  R.  W.  Thomas 


Hydrangea  quercifolia  6 Snow  Queen’ 


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a- 


June  blooms  at  Scott  Arboretum  of  Swarthmore  College  in  Swarthmore,  Pa. 


In  high  summer,  when  many  shrubs  look 
as  exhausted  as  their  owners,  the  oakleaf 
hydrangeas  appear  sleek  and  elegant,  with 
deep  green  foliage  and  panicles  of  white 
flowers  that  remain  showy  for  weeks  in 
June  and  July.  The  old  flower  heads  then 
turn  a handsome  russet,  as  a precursor  to 
the  plant’s  spectacular  wine-colored  fall 
foliage. 

William  Flemer,  III,  president  of  Prince- 
ton Nurseries,  selected  ‘Snow  Queen’  from 
a block  of  oakleaf  hydrangea  seedlings,  for 
its  upright  clusters  of  flowers.  In  addition  to 
being  more  showy,  Steve  Hutton  notes  that 
‘Snow  Queen’  flowers  are  less  likely  to  be 
shattered  in  summer  thunder  showers  than 
those  of  the  species. 

‘Snow  Queen’  will  grow  five  to  six  feet 
tall  at  maturity  with  equal  spread.  Plants 
may  appear  awkward  at  the  age  of  two  to 
three  years,  when  you’re  likely  to  find  them 
in  a nursery,  but  Hutton  recommends  that 


you  overlook  their  young  habit,  for  they 
quickly  grow  into  an  elegant  plant.  Phil 
Normandy,  curator  at  Brookside  Gardens, 
says  oakleaf  hydrangeas  will  grow  in  sun  or 
shade,  provided  you  give  them  good  soil, 
neither  too  wet  or  bone  dry.  At  the  Scott 
Arboretum,  a mass  planting  thrives  on  a 
sunny  south-facing  slope,  putting  on  a 
spectacular  flower  show  each  summer, 


Winners  of  1 988  Styer  Award  of  Garden 
Merit  were: 

Hedera  helix  ‘Buttercup’ 

Ilex  serrata  x I.  vertirillata  ‘Sparkleberry’ 
Itea  virginica  ‘Henry’s  Garnet’ 

Magnolia  acuminata  x M.  heptapeta 
‘Elizabeth’ 

Prunus  incisa  x P.  campanulata  ‘Okame’ 
Zelkova  serrata  ‘Green  Vase’ 


the  green  scene  / january  1989 


Malus  ‘Donald  Wyman’ 


Crabapples 

With  hundreds  of  species  and  cultivars  to 
choose  from,  gardeners  are  understandably 
confused  when  they  want  to  select  just  one 
crabapple  for  their  garden.  All  too  often  the 
most  commonly  available  ones  are  also  the 
most  susceptible  to  diseases  that  defoliate 
trees:  fireblight,  scab  and  powdery  mildew. 
Although  beautiful  in  flower,  poorer  vari- 
eties may  be  leafless  by  mid-summer. 

Thanks  to  the  work  of  the  late  Professor 
Lester  Nichols  at  Penn  State  and  now  the 
International  Crabapple  Society,  many 
improved  crabapples  are  coming  to  the 
forefront  — ones  with  showy  flowers  and 
fruits  that  are  resistant  to  disfiguring 
diseases.  Now,  by  making  the  right  choice, 
the  gardener  can  not  only  have  spring 
flowers  and  colorful  autumn  fruits,  but  also 
clean  foliage  on  a crabapple  all  summer 
long. 

The  following  two  crabapples  are  recom- 


mended by  the  Styer  Award  evaluators: 

For  the  gardener  looking  for  a medium- 
sized, roundheaded,  flowering  tree  with 
winter  interest,  the  Scott  Arboretum  staff 
recommends  Malus  ‘Donald  Wyman’.  As 
an  outstanding,  disease-resistant  crab  in 
the  Arboretum’s  large  collection,  this  tree 
has  pink  buds  that  open  to  single  white 
flowers  in  mid-  to  late  April.  Its  most 
striking  quality  is  its  bright  red  glossy 
fruits,  which  persist  well  into  the  winter, 
often  into  March.  At  the  Arboretum  the 
tree  shows  no  evidence  of  powdery  mildew 
or  Fireblight,  and  only  slight  evidence  of 
scab,  which  is  not  significant  enough  to 
detract  from  fruit  or  foliage. 

‘Donald  Wyman’  is  a fast-growing  tree, 
the  Arboretum’s  17-year-old  plant  is  20 
feet  tall  with  an  equal  spread.  This  cultivar 
roots  readily  from  summer  cuttings,  mak- 
ing grafting  unnecessary.  Cuttings  grow 
quickly  into  saleable  plants,  and  one-year- 


old  rooted  cuttings  have  flowered  and 
fruited.  As  a street  tree  or  specimen  in  the 
garden,  ‘Donald  Wyman’  is  a fine  land- 
scape plant. 

continued 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


i 


Malus  ‘Jewelberry’ 


14 


Malus  ‘Jewelberry’  at  Morris  Arboretum  in  Chestnut  Hill  (Philadelphia),  Pa.  in  May. 


For  those  who  want  to  enjoy  the  glory  of 
a crabapple’s  spring  bloom  and  fall  fruits 
without  devoting  a large  amount  of  garden 
space  to  it,  the  diminutive  Malus  ‘Jewel- 
berry’ is  a good  choice.  Specimens  of  this 
dwarf  crab  planted  in  1973  at  Penn  State 
University  are  only  six  feet  high. 

From  all  reports  ‘Jewelberry’  blooms 
well  each  year,  even  when  young,  with 
dark  pink  flower  buds  which  open  to  pink 
and  white  (in  cooler  springs  flowers  are 
deeper  in  color).  The  glossy  red  fruits  are 
also  plentiful  on  plants  from  an  early  age. 

Selected  in  1962  by  Robert  Simpson,  a 
notable  nurseryman  from  Vincennes, 
Indiana,  ‘Jewelberry’  is  possibly  a seedling 
of  M.  sargentii,  another  worthy  crabapple. 
As  an  accent  plant  it  can  be  very  effective, 
and  unlike  the  more  commonly  grown 
dwarf  ‘Red  Jade’,  ‘Jewelberry’  is  highly 
disease  resistant. 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


Grateful  thanks  to  Sally  Reath  for  research.  All  Jane  Pepper  is  president  of  the  Pennsylvania 

six  plants  are  hardy  to  Zone  5,  except  Deutzia  Horticultural  Society;  Judith  Zuk  is  director  of 

which  is  hardy  to  Zone  6.  the  Scott  Arboretum  of  Swarthmore  College. 


] 


HOW  TO  ENTER  A PLANT  FOR  THE  STYER  AWARD 


We  hope  you  will  let  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society  know,  and  encour- 
age your  gardening  friends  to  let  the 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
know  about  plants  that  merit  a Styer 
Award.  Brochures  and  entry  forms  can 
be  obtained  by  calling  the  Society  at 
(215) 625-8299. 


The  schedule  for  the  program  is  as 
follows: 

December  1st  — 

Deadline  for  entrants  to  submit  sugges- 
tions with  entry  form  and  slides  (3-5)  to 
the  Society. 

January  — 

Evaluators  review  entries  and  select 
plants  for  further  evaluation  in  the  field 
during  the  upcoming  months. 

Summer  — 

Evaluators  meet  to  make  final  award 
selections.  Winners  are  announced  in 
Green  Scene  at  the  beginning  of  the 
following  year. 


When  making  recommendations  for  the 
Styer  Award,  please  remember  the  fol- 
lowing specifications: 

• for  each  entry,  a minimum  of  three 
landscape-size  plants  must  be  accessi- 
ble to  evaluators  in  a botantical  garden, 
arboretum  or  nursery  located  within 
150  miles  of  Philadelphia,  in  the  area 
extending  from  Washington,  D.C.  to 
New  York  City; 

• a program  of  propagation  and  distri- 
bution should  be  underway  for  all  entries 
to  ensure  that  plants  are  available  so 
growers,  retailers  and  mail  order  sources 
can  obtain  stock  for  distribution. 


WHERE  TO  BUY  STYER  AWARD  PLANTS 


As  with  all  production  operations, 
both  wholesale  and  retail  nurseries  walk 
the  delicate  tightrope  between  supply 
and  demand.  Their  situation  is  further 
complicated  by  the  long  lead-time 
needed  to  produce  plants  large  enough 
to  attract  demand  in  the  retail  nursery. 

As  part  of  the  Styer  Award  program, 
the  Society  has  attempted  to  make  those 
involved  in  the  production  and  sale  of 
plants  in  the  areas  covered  by  Green 
Scene  readers  aware  of  our  activities 
and  we  distribute  information  on  the 
upcoming  award  winners  to  the  trade. 


We  hope  you  will  be  able  to  find  these 
plants  in  your  garden  centers.  If  you 
don’t  please  ask  for  them  and  let  the 
person  who  helps  you  know  about  the 
Styer  Award  program.  If  a retail  opera- 
tion would  like  our  list  of  WHOLE- 
SALE sources  for  these  plants  please 
call  the  Society’s  Horticultural  Hotline 
(215-922-8043  — Monday  through 
Friday,  between  9:30  and  noon,  January 
through  November),  or  send  your  re- 
quest with  a stamped,  self-addressed, 
business- size  envelope  to  Styer  Award, 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  325 
Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  1 9 1 06. 
We  cannot  provide  lists  of  retail  sources. 


EVALUATORS 

Judith  W.  Zuk,  Chair 
Darrel  Apps 
Tom  Dilatush 
William  H.  Frederick,  Jr. 
Richard  Hesselein 
William  Heyser 
Steve  Hutton 
Richard  W.  Lighty 
Paul  Meyer 
Philip  Normandy 
Sally  Reath 
Bradshaw  Snipes 
J.  Franklin  Styer 
Charles  Zafonte 


15 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


illustration  hv  Rarhara  Rruno 


his  neighbors , loses  his  garden  and  plots  to  get  it  back. 


by  Florence  Ann  Roberts 


H ^ ver  since  we  lost  our  urban  vege- 
Ij  table  garden  to  construction 
1 1 . crews,  my  three-year-old  son 
^ Jake  has  been  plotting  to  get  it 
back.  At  first,  his  plans  were  simple:  just 
tear  down  the  new  townhouses  covering 
the  site  and  reclaim  the  land.  After  I 
explained  that  the  people  building  the 
houses  needed  them  to  live  in,  he  came  up 
with  more  generous  solutions.  His  latest  is  a 
plan  to  take  down  the  houses  and  rebuild 
them  — on  top  of  our  house.  At  three, 
anything  is  possible. 

Our  garden  wasn’t  large,  just  a 10  x 15 
foot  comer  of  a vacant  city  lot  that  had, 
piece  by  piece,  been  claimed  by  gardening 
neighbors.  Some  were  reveling  in  the 
opportunity  to  move  beyond  rooftop  and 
container  gardening.  Others,  like  me,  were 
gardening  in  a full  sun  location  for  the  first 
time  in  years.  Getting  started  required 
several  hours  of  dedicated  pickaxing  to 
tame  the  compacted  and  rubble-filled 
ground.  Most  of  the  gardeners  poured 
incredible  amounts  of  energy  into  their 
plots,  and  the  results  were  obvious.  One 
neighbor  even  grew  a market  crop,  basil, 
for  the  local  gourmet  grocery. 

Our  own  little  comer  was  not  so  neatly 
manicured  as  some,  nor  so  fruitful,  but  it 
was  filled  with  things  young  children  love 
to  grow  (read  “pick  and  eat”):  strawberries, 
carrots,  tomatoes,  green  peppers  and  beans, 
as  well  as  lettuce,  parsley,  chives,  and  basil. 
We’d  also  grown  zucchini,  cucumbers, 


eggplant,  and  to  my  astonishment,  a few 
most  delicious  cantaloupes  in  the  little  plot. 
And  our  fellow  gardeners  were  generous 
with  their  bounty.  One  seemed  always  to 
have  a little  extra  lettuce,  or  strawberries, 
or  raspberries  to  share  with  a young  visitor. 

The  garden  was  a delight  not  only  to  my 
two  young  boys,  but  to  neighboring  children 
as  well.  We  often  formed  a ragtag  band, 
marching  the  half-block  to  the  garden, 
towing  our  noisy  red  wagon,  filled  with 
buckets  of  water  or  compost,  spades,  bas- 
kets, or  perhaps  a child  or  two.  The  garden 
was  an  adventure,  for  it  attracted  things  not 
usually  seen  by  city  youngsters.  A post  on 
the  boundary  of  our  garden  supported  a 
praying  mantis  egg  case  that  rated  a daily 
check  by  the  children.  And  our  parsley  held 
the  tiny  shimmering  eggs  of  a yellow 
swallowtail.  Goldfinches  visited  some  morn- 
ings, and  during  our  evening  walks  through 
the  garden  the  crickets  gallantly  tried  to 
drown  out  the  sounds  of  SEPTA  on  the 
adjoining  street. 

One  of  the  things  my  son  had  some 
trouble  with  at  first  was  the  distinction  I 
made  between  “garden  dirt”  and  other  dirt, 
such  as  that  he  found  between  the  curb  and 
the  sidewalk.  But  he  soon  warmed  up  to  the 
idea  of  digging  at  will  — at  least  in  the 
pathways. 

Jake  celebrated  his  first  three  birthdays 
along  with  the  garden.  His  passion  the  first 
year  was  strawberries  and  our  neighbor’s 
raspberries.  The  second  year  he  learned  the 

continued 


17 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


ckk loses  his  garden 


18 


Some  were  reveling  in  the  opportunity 
to  move  beyond  the  rooftop  and  con- 
tainer gardening.  Others,  like  me, 
were  gardening  in  a full  sun  location 
for  the  first  time  in  years. 


joys  of  fresh  juicy  tomatoes,  and  by  last 
summer,  he  was  becoming  an  expert  at 
pulling  carrots.  (Now,  weeds  were  another 
matter.) 

On  our  final  trips  to  the  garden  we  took 
the  wagon  down  empty  and  brought  it 
home  full.  We  dug  up  strawberry  plants, 
old-fashioned  iris  and  sedum  that  had 
bordered  the  garden,  bits  of  a neighbor’s 
hollyhock,  and  a parsley  plant  that  would 
last  till  early  December  in  a protected  spot 
behind  our  house  (the  swallowtail  cater- 
pillars had  long  ago  had  their  share)  — all 
refugees  from  the  bulldozers.  The  perennial 
flowers  went  to  neighbors  and  our  church 
courtyard.  The  strawberries,  the  children’s 
favorite,  were  put  in  a “holding  area”  for 
the  winter. 

Jake  says  that  after  the  new  people  live  in 
their  house  for  awhile  they  won’t  mind  if  he 
takes  it  down  and  builds  a garden  there. 
Then  he  could  build  their  house  again 
“later.” 

For  this  gardener,  spring  begins  to 
beckon  just  about  the  time  I pack  away  the 
last  of  our  holiday  decorations.  Soon  the 
seed  catalogs  will  be  in  our  mailbox,  and 
we’ll  be  sorely  tempted.  Blooms  on  the  few 
potted  zinnias  that  Jake  started  from  seed 
in  October  are  sweet  echoes  of  our  summer 
efforts.  We  need  a garden,  my  children  and 
I.  There  is  a little  space  we  might  be  able  to 
turn  into  a garden ...  a little  area  behind  our 
parking  spot,  the  one  filled  with  delphini- 
ums and  chrysanthemums  sadly  neglected 
since  the  children  were  bom.  It’s  only  five 
by  eight  and  gets  just  a bit  more  than  half- 
day of  full  sun.  But  it’s  bounded  by  a fence 
for  vertical  growing,  and  we  can  run  a hose 
from  the  house  for  watering.  The  kids 
won’t  have  to  go  far  to  work  in  it,  and 
maybe,  just  maybe,  a swallowtail  or  two 
will  find  us. 


• 

Florence  Ann  Roberts  left  a banking  career  a 
year  ago  to  become  an  at-home  mother.  A 
gardener  for  40  years  and  a mother  for  four, 
Florence  Ann  still  remembers  the  sweet  joy  of 
harvesting  the  carrots  from  her  first  garden 
planted  withthe  help  of  her  dad  the  summer  she 
turned  three.  She  gardens  near  the  Philadelphia 
Art  Museum  in  Center  City. 


Tips  for  Gardening  with  Toddlers  and  Preschoolers 

• Little  children  have  little  patience.  Include  some  plants  that  give  quick  results, 
such  as  radishes. 

• Children  love  spectacular  results  — if  you  have  room,  grow  some  pumpkins 
or  sunflowers. 

• Kids  love  to  measure.  Grow  some  big  seeded  items,  like  beans,  and  let 
preschoolers  measure  and  plant. 

• Consumption  is  half  the  fun  for  our  youngest  gardeners  (the  other  half  is 
getting  dirty).  Give  priority  to  your  youngster’s  favorite. 

• Plan  to  have  some  edibles  maturing  throughout  the  season. 

• Prepare  your  child  ahead  of  time  with  books  and  conversation.  There  are 
programs  geared  to  young  children  at  both  The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences 
and  Schuylkill  Valley  Nature  Center  among  others,  which  focus  on  plants  and 
seeds.  They  might  enjoy  a visit  to  the  Junior  Flower  Show  where  they  would 
see  horticultural  projects  created  by  children  — preschoolers  through  high 
school  — May  1 8-20  at  the  First  Bank  on  Third  Street  between  Chestnut  And 
Walnut.  (Call  625-8280  for  more  information.)  Like  their  big  brothers  and 
sisters,  the  more  young  children  learn  about  a subject,  the  more  interested 
they  become. 

• Arrange  your  garden  so  there  is  some  space  for  “anytime”  digging. 

• Realize  that  eager  young  pickers  often  harvest  a bit  early  — pull  out  your 
green  tomato  recipes! 

• Try  to  invest  in  some  real  tools  that  are  your  children’s  size.  (I  was  able  to  find 
a set  of  light  tools  with  interchangeable  aluminum  handles  in  three  lengths 
that  were  perfect  for  supervised  digging  and  raking  by  my  young  helpers.*) 

• Finally,  relax.  Your  garden  won’t  be  the  neat  and  well-ordered  spot  you 
gardened  solo  in  the  past.  But  you’ll  be  harvesting  a lot  more  than  vegetables 
from  it. 

Children’s  Tools 

The  Animal  Town  Game  Co. 

P.  O.  Box  2002 

Santa  Barbara,  C A 93120 

No  charge  for  catalog 

(rake  & shovel  $33,  does  not  include  shipping,  etc.) 

Smith  & Hawkins 
25  Corte  Madera 
Mill  Valley,  C A 94941 

(spade,  fork  & rake  $69,  does  not  include  shipping,  etc.) 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


A GARDEN  OF  BROTHERLY  LOVE 
YIELDS  REMARKABLE  RESULTS 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


(^)  by  Adra 


Fairman 


photo  by  Frederick  van  Wetering 


Their  lilies,  yellow,  pink  and  laven- 
der, are  literally  seven  feet  tall 
and  delphiniums  in  colors  ranging 
from  white  through  pale  to  royal 
blue,  are  of  equal  height.  A rose,  explained 
to  a visitor  as  “just  some  ordinary  hybrid 
tea”  is  also  pressing  nine  feet.  All  of  this  is 
the  work  of  two  brothers,  David  and  John 
Jacobus,  who  love  to  share  their  Princeton 
(N.J.)  area  garden  with  friends.  A large 
Fourth  of  July  weekend  “lily  party”  and 
tours  open  to  the  public  to  benefit  the  Stony 
Brook-Millstone  Watershed  Association 
are  highlights  of  the  season. 

Not  only  is  this  garden  magnificent  in  the 
enormous  and  unusual  height  of  its  plants, 
but  it  is  also  planned  with  an  eye  to  pleasing 
color  contrasts.  Blue,  white,  yellow,  pink, 
lavender,  even  magenta  and  red  seem  to 
blend  well  together.  Heights,  too,  have 
been  planned  to  vary  from  the  alyssum 


groundcover  through  dwarf  nicotiana  and 
coralbells  to  the  tall  lilies  and  delphinium 
previously  mentioned.  Unusual  plants  such 
as  the  West  Coast  evening  primrose 
(Oenothera  acaulis)  and  a fringed  gentian 
in  bloom  in  July  make  it  a fascinating  and 
absorbing  tour  for  any  dedicated  gardener. 

The  creators  of  this  grand  display  must 
be  doing  something  right  to  achieve  these 
dramatic  results.  The  question  is  are  they 
doing  something  new  and  different?  The 
answer  seems  to  be  that  they  do  indeed 
have  a novel  way  in  which  they  pursue 
some  of  the  problems  of  gardening. 

The  reason  they  give  for  their  somewhat 
unorthodox  approach  is  that  they  do  not 
have  time  to  garden  in  the  usual  way. 
David  is  a busy  physician  and  John,  a New 
York  insurance  company  attorney,  joins 
David  and  Claire  at  their  home  in  the 
country  only  on  the  weekends,  arriving  on 


Friday  nights  to  remain  through  Sunday. 
Vigorous  workouts  in  the  garden  are  the 
way  the  two  brothers  escape  the  tensions  of 
their  high  pressure  work  week.  Since  their 
time  is  limited,  they  set  about  their  chores 
in  a way  that  is  both  efficient  and  scientific. 

Successful  gardening,  especially  when  it 
produces  such  remarkable  results,  deals 
with  1)  soil,  2)  water,  3)  fertilizer,  4) 
exposure  i.e.  sun/shade,  5)  choice  of  plants. 
We  all  confront  these  factors,  and  we 
handle  each  individually  as  best  we  can. 
The  way  in  which  the  first  two,  soil  and 
water,  are  managed  by  these  unusually 
thoughtful  and  knowledgeable  gardeners  is 
undoubtedly  the  secret  of  their  unique 
accomplishments. 

soil 

Their  garden  started  out  15  years  ago 
with  the  usual  heavy,  reddish  clay  that 

the  green  scene  / january  1989 


abounds  in  the  Princeton  area.  During 
these  years  they  have  made  constant  and 
rather  radical  changes.  The  first  thing  they 
did  was  to  go  to  the  town  leaf  dump  where 
anyone  is  welcome  to  cart  away  the  well- 
rotted  leaf  mold  and  bring  it  back  to  their 
garden  by  the  truckload.  Railroad  ties,  two 
or  three  deep,  create  raised  beds  into  which 
they  dump  the  humus,  adding  a little  sharp 
builder’s  sand  for  additional  stability.  They 
have  found  that  the  leaf  mold  continues  to 
break  down  quite  rapidly,  so  lately  they 
have  learned  to  add  a little  peat  moss  as 
well. 

Their  next  modification  is  more  strenu- 
ous than  dumping  leaf  mold  on  bare  ground 
behind  railroad  ties.  To  prepare  for  the  lily 
bulbs  and  delphinium,  which  are  planted 
out  in  a main  border  in  full  sun  and 
admittedly  need  lots  of  pampering,  holes 
are  dug  to  a depth  of  about  three  feet  in  this 


clay-like  bed.  The  soil  is  removed  entirely, 
and  each  hole  filled  with  a mix  of  leaf  mold, 
peat  and  sand. 

water 

Obviously,  such  a light,  friable  mixture 
will  drain  very  rapidly,  so  the  gardeners 
need  the  second  factor  — water.  They’ve 
rigged  an  elaborate,  yet  inexpensive  system 
of  water  pipes  along  the  edges  of  all  the 
beds.  The  plastic  piping  (with  nipples  that 
emit  a fine  spray  every  two  feet)  is  light  and 
can  be  lifted  aside  when  the  grass  is 
mowed.  It  is  left  out  all  winter  and  is 
practically  indestructible.  A timer  inside 
the  house  activates  the  system  on  whatever 
schedule  is  deemed  necessary,  and  in  dry 
periods  that  means  every  night.  Though  it 
may  seem  so,  this  use  of  water  is  not 
extravagant.  The  sprinkler  runs  serially  for 
only  a few  minutes  (maximum  of  10 


White  and  purple  delphinium,  red 
lilies  (‘Red  Velvet’),  anthemis 
(Anthemis  kelwayi),  all  faced  down 
with  coral  bells  (Heuchera). 


minutes  in  each  spot),  and  the  water  is 
directed  exactly  where  it  is  wanted.  In  a dry 
season  they  will  water  more  than  once  a 
day.  Contrary  to  the  usual  wisdom  that 
night  watering  induces  rot  or  mildew,  this 
does  not  harm  the  plants  as  the  nipples  are 
placed  so  the  water  never  hits  stems  or 
leaves.  Only  the  soil  is  moistened. 

Frequent  watering  does  leach  out  fer- 
tilizer, which  is  compensated  for  by  using 
an  unusual  formula:  10-30-20.  David  and 
John  attribute  the  height  of  the  delphinium 
and  lilies  to  the  high  phosphorus  content  of 
this  fertilizer. 

sun  and  shade 

While  the  main  bed,  where  the  lilies  and 
delphiniums  grow,  is  in  full  sun,  the  borders 
of  this  garden  are  in  moderate  shade  cast 
by  two  old,  gnarled  apple  trees.  Among  the 
accompanying  plants  in  the  main  bed  are 
phlox,  campanula,  daylilies,  stokesia,  fever- 
few, cranesbill  geranium,  platycodon, 
liatris,  aquilegia,  alyssum  and  geum.  The 
more  shaded  borders,  which  surround  the 
lawn,  feature  astilbe,  cimicifuga,  climbing 
roses  and  clematis.  David  and  John  are 
interested  in  rare  plants,  and  such  exotics  as 
wall  bellflower  ( Campanula  portenschlagi- 
ana)  and  wood  anemone  (Anemone 
sylvestris)  appear  here. 

plants  2 1 

The  delphinium  is  grown  from  seed 
received  as  a bonus  from  membership  in 
the  British  Delphinium  Society.  They  admit 
that  growing  lilies  from  seed  obtained  from 
the  North  American  Lily  Society  is  “fun,” 
but  they  get  better  results  with  seeds  of 
good,  named  varieties  such  as  ‘Black 
Beauty’  obtained  from  reliable  sources. 

Most  of  the  other  plants  are  also  from  seed 
grown  under  lights  in  their  basement, 
started  in  January  and  planted  out  in  May. 

David  and  John  Jacobus  have  achieved  a 
degree  of  perfection  rare  in  a town  re- 
nowned for  its  remarkable  gardens.  At 
their  party  in  July,  even  the  most  jaded 
gardener  is  awestruck  by  the  intial  view  of 
the  garden  from  the  terrace  of  the  house. 

The  prodigious  height  of  the  flowers  and 
the  splendor  of  the  show  is  inspiring,  all 
accomplished  by  hard  work,  but  principally 
by  manipulating  those  two  essential  ele- 
ments, soil  and  water. 

continued 

the  green  scene  / January  1989 


photo  by  Frederick  van  Wetering 


A GARDEN  OF  BROTHERLY  LOVE 


STONE  WALL 


WATERING  LAYOUT 

General  pressure  runs  to  all 
solenoids.  We  also  have  a 
solenoid  on  main  line  to  shut 
off  system  when  individual 
solenoids  are  not  calling  for 
water. 


O = Individual  solenoids 
Heavy  lines  are  pipes 


Left  to  right,  Anthemis  (kelwayi),  coral  bells  (Heuchera),  lilies  (‘Red  Velvet’  and  yellow  ‘Connecticut  King’),  white  tree-mallow  (Lavatera  trimestris)  from 
South  Africa. 

The  Watering  System 

A sophisticated  but  inexpensive  watering 
system  is  essential  to  this  garden.  All  beds 
are  edged  with  one-inch  polyethylene  pipe 
fed  through  a filter  from  the  house  line. 
Spaced  along  the  pipe,  twelve  solenoid 
valves  control  groups  of  tiny  spray  nozzles. 
Each  nozzle  throws  a fine  spray  in  a semi- 
circle with  a radius  of  24  to  30  inches 
within  its  bed.  Each  solenoid  valve,  con- 
trolled by  a timer  in  the  house,  activates  its 
group  of  nozzles  in  sequence  for  a pre-set 
watering  period  lasting  from  three  to  ten 
minutes.  The  water  is  directed  only  to  the 
beds,  so  the  system  is  economical  and  does 
not  waste  water.  The  valves  are  taken  in  in 
the  winter. 

Supplies:  obtained  from 
E.C.  Geiger 
Box  285  Rt.  63 
Harleysville,  Pa.  19438-0332 
One-inch  polyethylene  pipe:  17  cents/foot 
Solenoid  valves:  $ 18/each 
Timer:  $217 

Bell  wire  or  multi-strand  telephone  wire 
Teflon  tape 

Spray  nozzles:  $ 15 /hundred 
Main  line  filter  from  local  plumbing  supply 


Adra  Fairman  is  president  of  the  Board  of 
Trustees  of  Rockingham  Association,  Rocky 
Hill,  New  Jersey.  She  is  also  president  of  the 
New  Jersey  Daffodil  Society  and  an  accredited 
Garden  Club  of  America  Horticultural  judge. 


BED 


BED 


BED 


GARAGE 


G-  CONVENIENCE  HOSE  BIBB 


SHRUBS 


SHRUBS 


HOUSE 


MAIN  OUTLET 

\ 


FILTER  HOSE  BIBB 


SHRUBS 


SHRUBS 


RAISED  BED  BULBS 


CURB 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


SMALL  SEEDLINGS 
THRIVE  IN  BUBBLES 
INDOORS  AND  OUTDOORS 


Cv)  by  Betty  Barr  Mackey 


My  smallest 
seedlings 
took  care  of 
themselves  last  spring. 

Inside  crystal-clear 
bubbles  of  plastic, 
they  were  safe  from 
heavy  rain,  insects, 
dehydration,  light 
frost  and,  worst  of  all,  gardener  neglect. 

My  intentions  are  better  than  my  ability 
to  follow  through  with  more  difficult  seeds. 
I do  well  for  a while,  then  something 
happens.  A trip,  a deadline,  an  illness  in  the 
family,  a party:  something  pressing  and 
distracting  makes  me  miss  watering  for  a 
day  or  two.  Plants  from  the  smallest  seeds 
are  the  most  vulnerable,  because  they  take 
longer  to  germinate  and  reach  a “safe” 
size.  They  dry  out  and  die,  and  weeks  or 
months  of  work  go  right  onto  the  compost 
heap. 

This  year  I beat  the  problem  with  tightly 
sealed  plastic  bubbles.  You  know  the  kind  I 
mean,  those  rounded,  crystal-clear  con- 
tainers for  salad  bar  orders.  (I  get  mine  at 
the  local  Acme.)  I also  use  plastic  garment 
boxes,  growing  systems  of  six-packs  in  a 
tray,  fitted  with  a clear  plastic  cover,  and 
anything  else  I can  find  that  will  make  a 
watertight  mini-greenhouse  or  coldframe. 

For  tiny  seedlings  that  will  be  grown 
outside,  it  is  especially  important  that  the 
small  seeds  in  a ightly  shut  to  keep  out  rain. 
A heavy  rain  can  break,  flatten,  or  swamp 


delicate  seedlings.  In  uncovered  pots  or  in 
ground  with  good  drainage,  plantlets  from 
larger  seeds  may  go  through  the  same 
storm  unharmed.  Growing  tiny  ones  in 
bubbles  gives  them  the  same  outdoor  light, 
but  more  protection  from  the  elements. 


The  bubbles  create  a sealed  system,  a 
kind  of  terrarium. 


Indoors  a watertight  cover  is  less  crucial. 
Here,  the  cover  serves  to  hold  in  humidity, 
not  keep  the  elements  out.  But  that  impor- 
tant protection  from  gardener  neglect  is  the 
same. 

how  to  start 

You  will  need  seeds,  sterile  potting  or 
seed-starting  soil,  plastic  or  plastic-covered 
containers,  plant  labels  and  an  indelible 
marking  pen,  and  a mild  fungicide.  The 
greatest  danger  to  seeds  inside  sealed  con- 
tainers is  damping  off  fungus  that  causes 
wilt  at  the  soil  line.  That  is  why  soil  should 


be  sterile,  not  too  wet, 
and  treated  with  fun- 
gicide. I use  a diluted 
solution  of  Rootone 
(which  contains  fun- 
gicide) about  a half- 
teaspoon to  a quart  of 
water,  to  moisten 
whatever  potting  soil 

I have  on  hand. 

Wet  the  soil  to  a “chocolate  cake” 
consistency  — moist,  not  soggy.  Place  it 
into  the  containers.  For  typical  container 
(5!/2  inches  deep  and  6V2  inches  wide),  fill 
soil  two  and  a half  inches  deep.  The  larger 
the  seed,  the  deeper  the  soil  should  be. 

If  seed  is  extremely  small  — smaller  than 
poppy  seeds  on  rolls,  for  example  — mix  it 
with  a spoonful  of  dry  sand  and  sprinkle  it 
evenly  over  the  soil.  Don’t  use  too  many 
seeds,  because  in  these  sealed  conditions 
nearly  all  of  them  will  germinate.  Plantlets 
should  be  half  an  inch  apart  or  so.  Do  not 
cover  tiniest  seed  (begonia,  for  example)  at 
all.  Seed  that  is  somewhat  larger,  statice, 
impatiens,  viola,  basil,  rosemary,  etc.,  may 
be  barely  covered  with  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
of  soil,  no  more.  The  larger  the  seed,  the 
more  it  can  be  covered.  Mist  the  top  of  the 
soil  lightly  after  planting. 

According  to  directions,  decide  whether 
to  grow  your  seed  indoors  or  out.  In  early 
spring  when  there  is  a strong  chance  of 
light  frost,  it  is  possible  to  germinate  seeds 
of  perennials  and  hardy  annuals  indoors 


continued 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


SMALL  SEEDLINGS  THRIVE  IN  BUBBLES 


and  then  set  the  container  outside  when 
seedlings  are  showing.  A few  examples  are 
ageratum,  petunia,  shirley  poppies,  statice, 
babysbreath,  viola,  candytuft,  aubrieta, 
daisies,  broccoli,  and  lettuce.  Plants  that 
need  more  warmth,  like  salvia,  peppers  and 
zinnias,  can  be  grown  indoors  longer,  then 
put  out  (still  in  bubbles)  two  weeks  before 
the  frost-free  date,  or  later,  when  nights  are 
warmer.  The  bubble  will  be  enough  to 
shield  them  from  light  frost  if  it  should 
occur. 

Carefully  label  the  pots  as  soon  as  they 
are  planted.  I write  the  planting  date,  the 
seed  company  name,  and  the  variety  name 
on  wooden  or  plastic  labels  and  stick  them 
in  soil  inside  the  containers. 

The  bubbles  create  a sealed  system,  a 
kind  of  terrarium.  Soil  moisture  must  be 
just  right.  If  your  soil  is  too  wet,  leave  the 
cover  off  for  a day  or  two.  If  it  is  too  dry 
when  moisture  condenses  on  the  lid,  add  a 
bit  more. 

when  plants  appear 

As  soon  as  some  of  the  seeds  come  up, 
put  their  bubble  in  a place  where  light  is 
strong  enough  to  cast  a sharp  shadow. 
Indoors  grow  seedlings  a few  inches  below 
fluorescent  light  fixtures  or  in  bright  sun- 
light from  windows  in  February  or  March; 
keep  a careful  eye  on  them  so  they  don’t 
cook.  Outdoor  light  is  even  better.  In  late 
winter  and  throughout  spring,  most  seed- 
lings can  take  some  solar  buildup  of  heat 


during  the  day,  the  condensation  on  top  of 
the  container  will  help  limit  it.  But  outdoors 
in  late  spring  or  summer,  heat  buildup  will 
be  too  great  unless  you  remove  covers 
during  the  day  and  replace  them  at  night,  or 
keep  the  containers  in  partial  shade. 

If  seedlings  show  signs  of  damping  off. 


removing  the  lid  and  exposing  them  to 
direct  sunlight  for  several  hours  a day,  for  a 
day  or  two,  will  probably  cure  them.  But 
don’t  forget  about  them  or  they’ll  dehy- 
drate while  taking  the  radiation  cure. 

When  seedlings  are  up,  fertilize  spar- 
ingly with  a gentle  liquid  (in  a home  test  of 
several  I found  Schultz-Instant  Liquid 
Plant  Food  1 0- 1 5 - 1 0 did  best).  Or  sprinkle 
beads  of  slow-release  fertilizer  such  as 
Osmocote  among  them.  Most  sterile  potting 
mixes  contain  little  fertilizer.  Check  the 
seedlings  from  time  to  time  to  see  that  they 


are  healthy  and  have  the  right  amount  of 
water.  That’s  about  it.  Nature  does  the  rest. 

When  seedlings  are  large  enough  to 
handle,  separate  them  and  plant  them  in  the 
garden  or  in  individual  pots.  The  best  tool 
for  pricking  out  tiny  seedlings  is  an  ordi- 
nary pencil  — use  the  pointed  end.  Make 
holes  for  the  plants,  then  remove  them  from 
their  old  containers,  one  by  one.  Dig  one, 
plant  one  — immediately.  Hold  by  the 
leaves,  not  the  easily  crushed  stem.  Drop 
the  roots  into  the  hole,  then  press  soil 
against  them,  not  too  hard.  Stems  may  be 
covered  up  to  the  bottom  leaves. 

When  you  are  finished  with  the  bubbles 
wash  them  out  with  a bit  of  chlorine  bleach 
in  soapy  water,  rinse,  and  dry.  You  can  also 
run  them  through  the  dishwasher.  Then 
they  are  ready  to  nurture  a new  crop. 

This  system  of  growing  seeds  is  good, 
but  not  as  good  as  greenhouse  conditions 
because  of  lack  of  drainage  and  air  circu- 
lation. But  if  you  have  times  when  your 
own  neglect  of  seedlings  is  their  worst 
enemy,  try  babying  them  in  plastic  bubbles. 


Betty  Bar  Mackey’s  articles  have  appeared  in  a 
number  of  newspapers  and  magazines  including 
Organic  Gardening  and  Weekend  Gardener,  and 
she  has  articles  pending  in  Horticulture  and 
Flower  & Garden,  While  in  Florida  she  wrote  a 
booklet  entitled  A Cutting  Garden  for  Florida 
and  was  invited  to  put  in  a flower  border  at  Leu 
Gardens  in  Orlando. 


the  green  scene  / january  1989 


BAMBI  GO  HOME 


In  many  rural  areas  of  New  Jersey,  garden- 
ing has  become  almost  impossible . The  New 
Jersey  white  tail  deer  herd,  estimated  at 
160,000  by  the  New  Jersey  Division  of  Fish 
and  Game  and  at  close  to  300,000  by  angry 
farmers,  is  forcing  homeowners  to  barricade 
their  gardens  behind  fences,  or  give  up  gar- 
dening entirely . Deer  fencing  has  replaced 
sports  and  politics  as  the  favorite  topic  of 
conversation  at  cocktail  parties. 

(^)  by  Helen  Tower  Brunet 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


Molly  Adam’s  vegetable 
garden,  one  of  many  similar 
enclosures  necessary 
throughout  New  Jersey.  Wire 
mesh  is  five  feet  high;  single 
strands  of  non-electrified  wire 
go  up  to  meet  top  of  8 -foot 
posts. 


Even  the  kids  have  gotten  the 
message:  last  summer,  at  the 
Fourth  of  July  parade  in  Mend- 
ham  Township,  the  winning  float 
showed  a contented  papier  mache'  deer 
eating  his  way  through  a flower  garden. 
The  banner  message  read  “Bambi  Go 
Home!” 

A mature  deer  eats  between  five  and 
seven  pounds  of  food  a day;  when  it 
browses  through  open  land  it  eats  a variety 
of  herbaceous  material,  but  when  it  gets 
into  your  garden  it  gets  considerably  more 
selective,  for  example,  only  daylily  shoots 
and  tulip  buds  one  night  in  April;  all  of  the 
rose  buds  in  June  and  in  July,  hosta  flowers, 
leaves  and  stalks. 

Until  recently,  deer  damage  to  orna- 
mental shrubs  has  been  a problem  for  the 
homeowner  only  in  winter,  when  hungry 
deer  eat  leaves  and  branches  and  bucks 
injure  trees  by  rubbing  their  antlers  against 
the  bark,  now  it  is  almost  as  bad  in  summer. 
Fencing  is  becoming  a necessity  year 
round,  forcing  gardeners  to  reduce  the  size 
of  their  gardens  to  what  they  are  willing  to 
fence  in.  In  many  areas  of  the  state  where  a 
5-acre  lot  is  the  average,  gardens  are 
smaller  than  those  in  the  suburbs,  and 
surrounded  by  fences  more  suitable  to  the 
inner  city. 

Mendham  Township  has  one  of  the 
worst  deer  problems  in  the  state,  but  com- 
plaining doesn’t  bring  much  sympathy 
from  folks  in  more  urban  areas.  Of  the 
township’s  1 1,264  acres,  23  percent  are  in 
public  lands,  which  include  substantial 
parts  of  the  1,300-acre  Jockey  Hollow 
National  Park  and  the  adjoining  1,000- 
acre  Lewis  Morris  County  Park. 

The  five-acre  property  we  purchased  for 
our  home  in  1972  adjoins  both  parks,  and 
has  a swampy  area,,  with  a small  stream. 
Across  the  road  are  60  acres  of  open  fields, 
so  our  deer  problem  is  probably  among  the 
worst  in  the  area. 

Our  strategies  for  coping  with  deer  have 
changed  over  the  last  16  years  as  the  deer 
population  has  increased.  To  a certain 
extent,  our  tactics  mirror  the  strategies  of 
many  of  our  neighbors  and  gardeners  in 
other  parts  of  the  state. 

memories  like  elephants 

We  built  our  house,  1 6 years  ago,  next  to 
a deer  trail.  Deer,  we’ve  found,  are  truly 
creatures  of  habit  with  memories  at  least  as 

continued 


25 


KINDS  OF  FENCING  MOST  COMMONLY  USED  IN  NEW  JERSEY 


electric  fences 

The  Penn  State  Electric  Fence,  recom- 
mended by  the  NJ  Division  of  Fish  and 
Game,  is  six  strands  of  high-tensile  wire 
totaling  56  inches  in  height.  Posts  are  set 
60  feet  apart;  wire  (provided  free  to  New 
Jersey  farmers  by  the  State)  costs  about 
$65  a roll  of  4,000  feet.  It  can  be  powered 
by  a solar  charger,  about  $230,  which  will 
run  25  miles  of  wire.  Pressure-treated 
wooden  posts  cost  $20  each.  For  more 
information,  (201)  735-8793,  Division  of 
Fish  and  Game,  John  Piccolo,  supervisor  of 
the  Wildlife  Control  Unit. 

Electric  Seven-Wire  Slant  Fence.  Seven 
high-tensile  wires  mounted  on  hardwood 
posts,  set  at  a 45-degree  slant,  with  a total 
height  at  the  back  of  48  inches.  Cost  for 
materials  is  $ 1 .00  per  foot  for  five  acres. 
Distributed  by  Brookside  Industries, 
Tunbridge,  VT  05077;  a local  representa- 
tive is  Bob  Smith,  (201)  722-4598. 

Techfence.  Seven-strand  upright  elec- 
tric. Total  height  is  58  inches.  $3-4  per 
linear  foot,  plus  $500  per  gate;  6,000  volts 
runs  off  house  current;  Techfence  says  this 
is  equal  to  running  25-watt  bulb.  One 
homeowner  spent  $8,000  to  fence  in  two 
acres  with  five  gates.  Techfence,  64  So. 
Main  St.,  P.O.  Box  A,  Marlboro,  New 
Jersey  07746;  (201)  462-6101. 

non-electric  fences 

Galvanized  wire  mesh,  5 feet  high  is  $43 
per  50-foot  roll;  6 feet  high  is  $55  per 
50-foot  roll;  8-foot-high  steel  posts,  about 
$5  each. 

Single-strand  wire  non-electric:  $60  per 
50-feet  razor  ribbon.  Barbed  wire:  $48  for 
50-feet  galvanized;  $150  per  50-feet 
aluminum. 

Chain-link  fence,  8 feet  high,  runs  about 
$2.65  per  linear  foot  including  section 
posts.  Corner  posts  are  $90  each;  gates  run 
$90  for  4-foot  opening;  $150  for  double 
opening  for  driveway. 

Custom-made  wood  fencing  varies  con- 
siderably. The  Willemsen  fence,  pictured, 
was  made  by  Foerster  Landscapers  (20 1 - 
895-2444),  ran  $16  per  linear  foot,  plus 
$300  for  the  10-foot  gate.  Fence  is  eight 
feet  high  on  three  sides,  seven  feet  in  front. 
Constructed  of  2x2-inch  pressurized  spin- 


dles with  eased  edges,  mounted  with  alu- 
minum screws  on  4x4  posts  supported  by 
2x4  rails. 

Stockade  fencing  costs  about  $58  for  a 
panel  8 feet  high  and  8 feet  long,  10-foot 
cedar  posts  are  $1 1 each;  $35  for  panels  6 
feet  high  and  8 feet  long,  with  6-foot  cedar 
posts  costing  about  $5  each. 


Total  height  48” 


The  seven  wire  slant  fence  confuses  deer,  whose 
depth  perception  is  poor.  Developed  by  Jay  B. 
McAninch,  wildlife  biologist  of  the  Cary  Arboretum 
in  Millbrook,  NY. 

how  to  select  a fence 

While  there  are  no  absolutes  in  fencing 
out  deer,  some  generally  accepted  beliefs 
can  help  one  decide  on  the  best  kind  of 
fencing. 

1 . When  a deer  sees  a barrier,  he  tries  first 
to  go  through  or  under,  then  to  jump  over. 
This  is  the  theory  of  the  electric  fence  — 
that  the  deer  will  get  zapped  and  leave  it 
alone  rather  than  realize  he  can  jump  it. 
Electric  fences  don’t  form  an  absolute 
barrier,  but  they  help  re-educate  deer  by 
making  a particular  feeding  ground  un- 
comfortable. But  sometimes  deer  will 
decide  the  zap  is  worth  it  — one  farmer 
notes  that  deer  in  his  area  will  not  go 
through  the  fence  in  wet  weather  when  the 
shock  is  greatest,  but  will  climb  through  in 
dry  weather. 

2.  Deer  have  poor  depth  perception;  the 
slant  fence  capitalizes  on  this  problem  (see 
illustration).  Double  fencing  can  be  effec- 
tive as  well  (e.g.  running  two  parallel  rows 


of  fencing  with  five  feet  of  open  ground  in 
between). 

3.  A deer  will  not  jump  into  an  area  if  he 
can’t  see  where  he  will  land.  That  makes 
solid  stockade  fencing,  8 feet  high  and  set 
on  level  ground,  jump  proof.  The  deer  will 
try  instead  to  go  under  it  or  if  he  finds  a 
weak  section  he’ll  try  to  break  through  or 
push  a section  down. 

4.  Deer  do  not  normally  jump  when  they 
are  feeding,  but  rather  when  they  are 
running;  they  browse  with  heads  down, 
until  they  reach  a barrier.  If  they  can’t 
easily  go  through  or  under  the  barrier,  they 
will  sometimes  move  off  in  another  direc- 
tion rather  than  jump.  For  this  reason,  low 
wire  mesh  fencing  (four  or  five  feet  high) 
sometimes  works  in  summer  in  areas  with 
low  deer  pressure  because  it  can  re-route 
browsing  deer.  But  low  barriers  can’t  be 
counted  upon,  and  would  never  keep  deer 
out  of  a highly  desirable  feeding  ground 
such  as  an  apple  orchard. 

5.  Winter  fencing  has  to  be  much  more 
efficient  than  summer  fencing;  there  is  less 
fodder  available  and  a snow  of  more  than  6 
inches  allows  deer  to  jump  higher  fences. 

6.  Some  areas  are  almost  impossible  to 
keep  deer  out  of,  for  example  a swampy 
area  or  a pond  or  stream. 

7.  Experts  rate  the  slant  fence  the  most 
effective  of  the  electric  types,  but  those  we 
talked  to  agree  the  most  effective  of  all  is 
8-10  feet  of  chain  link,  providing  the 
ground  is  relatively  flat.  If  the  land  goes  up 
hill  outside  the  fence,  additional  height  has 
to  be  added  in  that  section. 

8.  You  can’t  just  fence  and  forget  it  — 
constant  vigilance  is  necessary  especially 
in  a large  area  that  is  fenced  in. 

9.  Keep  gates  closed  at  all  times.  If  a deer 
enters  by  an  open  gate  and  is  trapped,  he 
will  ram  a solid  fence  he  can’t  jump;  in  the 
case  of  an  electric  fence,  he  will  jump  out, 
and  then  discover  than  jumping  in  might 
work  just  as  well. 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


long  as  elephants.  Their  late  afternoon 
migration  had  for  years  brought  them 
along  the  same  route  beside  the  area  that 
became  our  driveway  and  they  stuck  to  it. 
A new  home,  with  a lawn  and  ornamental 
shrubs  just  improved  the  habitat. 

Like  many  of  our  neighbors,  we  encased 
all  of  the  foundation  planting  in  5-foot- 
high  wire  supported  by  sturdy  stakes,  all 
winter.  Specimen  shrubs  around  the  garden 
— rhododendron,  holly,  viburnum,  and 
laurel  were  enclosed  in  individual  cylin- 
drical wire  cages.  Even  prickly  juniper  and 
pyracantha  needed  protection.  The  wire 
went  up  in  October  and  came  down  in 
April,  and  still  does. 

But  in  those  days,  shrubs  and  flower 
borders  were  safe  in  summer,  although 
most  vegetable  gardens  in  the  area  had  to 
be  fenced  in.  In  our  case,  the  deer  were 
generally  content  with  their  woodland 
habitat,  separated  from  our  main  perennial 
border  only  by  a post-and-rail  fence.  If  by 
chance  the  deer  forgot  the  summer  rules 
and  came  on  the  lawn  in  summer,  they 
were  chased  away  by  our  dog  Sanka,  a 
shepherd-dane  mixed  breed. 

In  those  early  years  after  moving  to  the 
country,  we,  like  many  other  ex-suburban- 
ites,  thought  there  was  nothing  wrong  with 
a dog  chasing  deer,  but  we  learned  other- 
wise. Once  when  Sanka  chased  the  deer 
into  the  woods  she  came  back  badly  gouged 
in  the  side,  possibly  from  a buck’s  antlers; 
another  time  the  skin  on  her  right  front  leg 
lay  open  in  a flap,  probably  she  had  torn  it 
on  barbed  wire  while  in  pursuit.  But  trying 
to  re-train  a dog  who  has  been  allowed  to 
chase  deer  is  next  to  impossible.  When 
Sanka  died,  from  intestinal  parasites,  which 
the  veterinarian  thinks  came  from  eating  a 
deer  carcass  in  the  woods,  we  vowed  to 
train  our  next  dog  not  to  chase  the  deer. 
Posie,  our  shepherd-retriever  mixed  breed, 
has  been  trained  since  she  was  a puppy  to 
never  chase  the  deer.  The  deer  know  this 
and  are  much  bolder  than  they  used  to  be. 

But  even  without  a dog  on  patrol,  for  the 
first  five  years  in  our  new  home,  the 
summer  deer  pressure  was  low  enough  that 
we  were  able  to  grow  perennials,  annuals 
and  vegetables  with  little  damage.  Then 
gradually  over  the  years,  flowers  began  to 
disappear.  Rose  buds  never  had  a chance  to 
open;  the  new  shoots  of  daylilies  in  spring 
looked  as  if  they  had  been  run  over  by  the 
lawn  mower;  phlox  completely  vanished. 

Within  five  years  it  became  so  difficult  to 
grow  our  choice  of  perennials  in  that 
border  that  we  decided  to  grow  only 
daffodils  in  spring,  and  in  summer,  toma- 
toes in  wire  cages,  hydrangea,  artemesia, 
feverfew  and  astilbe,  which  the  deer  left 
alone. 

We  moved  the  more  vulnerable  peren- 
the  green  scene  / January  1989 


nials  to  a new  bed  beside  the  front  walk.  To 
protect  this  area  from  deer  browsing  at 
night,  I soaked  twine  in  creosote  and  strung 
it  around  the  garden  supported  by  stakes. 
As  long  as  we  stayed  home,  this  worked. 
Leaving  the  house  for  a few  weeks  of 
vacation  was  fatal. 

T wo  years  ago  we  decided  to  enlarge  the 
lower  border  and  go  back  to  growing  what 
we  wanted  in  the  lower  perennial  border.  I 
asked  for  deer  fencing  for  my  birthday  and 


Chicken  wire  attached  to  top  of  post  & rail 


sat  down  with  mail  order  catalogs,  check- 
ing everything  I liked  regardless  of  whether 
or  not  it  was  “deer  proof.” 

All  Easter  weekend  that  year  my  hus- 
band, Stuart,  and  two  grown  sons,  home 
from  Boston  for  the  weekend,  worked 
installing  six-foot-high  welded  mesh  steel 
fencing,  anchored  at  ten-foot  intervals 
either  by  steel  posts  or  trees.  In  two  places 
they  overlapped  the  wire  to  create  gates. 
When  finished,  it  provided  a barrier  on  two 
sides  of  the  garden  area  and  connected  to 
the  post-and-rail  fence  already  behind  the 
perennial  border,  which  formed  most  of  the 
third  side.  The  house  partially  blocked  the 
fourth  side. 

The  six-foot-high  wire  fence  in  the 
woods  worked  fairly  well,  but  the  deer 
jumped  the  five-foot-high  post-and-rail 


section  regularly. 

Worse  still,  does  led  fawns  in  through  the 
openings  by  the  house.  When  we  appeared, 
the  doe  would  jump  the  post-and-rail  fence, 
leaving  the  fawn  trapped.  The  little  creature 
would  then  start  tearing  back  and  forth 
along  the  fence  bleating  in  panic,  alter- 
nately trying  to  jump  it  or  push  it  down  by 
hurling  its  weight  against  it.  The  first  time  it 
happened,  I tried  to  herd  the  fawn  back 
toward  the  opening  by  the  house.  But 
herding  a deer,  I found,  is  simply  impos- 
sible. They  dart  back  and  forth,  then  try  all 
the  harder  to  ram  the  fence.  The  only 
solution  turned  out  to  be  to  open  the  gates 
on  either  side  of  the  perennial  border  and 
go  inside  the  house  and  wait. 

Once  I watched  through  the  study  win- 
dow while  a small  herd  waited  for  a 
trapped  fawn,  moving  back  and  forth  along 
the  fence  while  the  young  one  bleated  for 
help.  Finally  it  found  the  opening  and 
danced  off  to  join  the  herd,  tail  held  high 
and  all  terror  forgotten. 

The  first  year  we  never  did  solve  the 
problem  of  the  deer  coming  in  beside  the 
house,  but  we  raised  the  height  of  the  post- 
and-rail  fence  by  adding  chicken  wire  to 
the  top  rail  and  allowing  it  to  loop  back  in  a 
high  roll,  which  we  anchored  on  the  far  side 
with  tall  tomato  stakes.  See  drawing. 

The  fencing  that  first  season,  although 
not  perfect,  had  made  a great  difference  in 
the  garden.  In  a wooded  area,  native  jack- 
in-the-pulpit  appeared  everywhere.  In  the 
perennial  garden,  white  phlox,  one  of  my 
favorites,  came  back  and  so  did  a fine  stand 
of  yellow  daylilies  that  had  never  been 
allowed  to  bloom.  New  additions,  including 
thalictrum,  asters,  rudbeckia,  stokesia, 

continued 


Chris  Willemsen’s  custom-made  wooden  fence:  7 feet  high  in  front,  8 feet  high  on  other  three  sides. 


photo  by  Molly  Adams 


28 


Techfence  version  of  upright  electric  fence  and  gate. 


digitalis  and  platycodon,  all  survived.  Only 
the  malva  was  never  allowed  to  keep  its 
leaves. 

stepping  on  it 

This  past  spring  we  continued  the  fence 
all  the  way  around  the  property  to  the  edges 
of  the  driveway.  We  didn’t  want  to  install  a 
gate  over  the  driveway  that  had  to  be 
opened  to  bring  the  car  into  the  parking 
area.  Instead,  Stu  laid  four  sections  of  5- 
foot-wide  heavy-gauge  wire  fencing  side 
by  side,  slightly  overlapped,  flat  across  the 
gravel  driveway,  anchoring  them  at  the 
sides  with  rocks.  The  theory  being  that  the 
deer  wouldn’t  like  walking  across  16  feet 
of  wire  to  get  into  the  garden.  As  far  as  we 
know,  this  has  worked. 

Our  final  strategy  was  to  use  the  deer 
repellent  Hinder,  which  I diluted  and  lightly 
sprinkled  on  the  perennials  about  every 
three  weeks.  The  garden  was  glorious  last 
summer  and  even  the  malva  flowered,  but 
we  weren’t  sure  which  was  most  effective, 
the  Hinder  or  the  fence.  We  got  our  answer 
in  late  July.  We  had  a nighttime  raid;  we 
found  hoof  marks  on  the  ground  where  the 
deer  had  jumped  a section  of  6-foot-high 
fence.  But  the  only  plants  that  were  eaten 
were  houseplants  under  the  deck  that  1 
hadn’t  doused  with  Hinder. 

We  know  our  fence,  at  6 feet,  is  only  a 
deterrent,  but  combined  with  Hinder  it 
works  in  summer  for  now.  In  winter,  of 
course,  we  go  right  back  to  wire  enclosures 
on  the  shrubs.  In  our  area,  the  only  alterna- 
tive to  individual  shrub  fencing  in  winter 
(no  repellent  that  we  know  of  has  proved 
effective  during  the  winter  months)  is 
permanent,  year-round  fencing,  either  wire 
mesh,  chain  link  or  wood  at  least  8 feet 
high,  or  electric  fence. 

No  matter  how  inconvenient  and  costly, 
deer  damage  to  home  gardens  is  minor 
compared  to  losses  suffered  by  New  Jersey 
farmers.  The  half-million  acres  under  the 


state’s  Farm  Assessment  provide  a cornu- 
copia of  fruits,  vegetables,  grains  and 
ornamentals  — a fraction  of  which  can  be 
harvested  because  of  the  numbers  of  deer. 

Helen  Heinrich,  a landscape  architect 
who  serves  the  New  Jersey  Farm  Bureau  as 
a consultant  on  the  deer  population,  says 
that  farmers  have  had  to  go  to  fencing  to 
survive.  “All  farmers  are  affected  by  deer 
damage,  but  it’s  farmers  growing  hay  and 
grain  field  crops  who  are  hit  hardest. 
Because  hay  and  grain  crops  have  a lower 
market  value  than  fruits  and  vegetables, 
and  because  these  crops  are  often  grown  on 
rented  land,  the  fields  are  not  usually 
fenced  in  and  losses  can  be  devastating.” 

Kurt  Alstede,  New  Jersey’s  1987  Young 
Farmer  of  the  Year,  estimates  a loss  of 
$30,000  a year  from  deer  damage  on  his 
500-acre  farm  in  Chester.  Last  spring  deer 
destroyed  an  entire  field  of  sweet  com  by 
eating  the  tassels,  and  the  following  fall 
they  ate  4 acres  of  pumpkins  down  to  the 
ground. 

Alstede  has  since  fenced  in  one  30-acre 
field  with  electric  fencing  and  is  pleased 
with  the  results,  but  he  points  out:  “Fencing 
that  acreage  cost  $8,000  in  labor  and 
materials  so  I can  hardly  do  the  rest  any 
time  soon.” 

Mendham  Township  nurseryman  Steve 
George  estimates  his  yearly  damages  at 
$20,000  from  destruction  of  his  pumpkin 
crop  and  injury  to  his  Christmas  tree  farm 
of  pine  trees  and  Frazier  firs. 

control  through  hunting 

Fencing,  homeowners  and  farmers  agree, 
is  not  a remedy  for  the  problem,  because 
fences  do  nothing  to  control  the  deer 
population  which  is  skyrocketing. 

Fencing  and  hunting  have  to  go  hand  in 
hand.  “Putting  up  a fence  and  not  allowing 
hunting  on  open  private  land  is  just  sticking 
you  head  in  the  sand,”  says  Heinrich.  Many 
homeowners,  however,  are  reluctant  to 


allow  hunters  on  their  land. 

Dona  Schneider,  a member  of  the 
Princeton  Township  Environmental 
Commission,  has  spearheaded  a campaign 
in  Princeton  Township  to  open  more 
private  land  to  bow  hunting.  Working  with 
the  Division  of  Fish  and  Game,  Schneider 
and  the  environmental  commission  main- 
tain a list  of  bow  hunters  whom  residents 
may  call  upon  to  hunt  their  land.  “There  is 
no  minimum  acreage  required  for  bow 
hunting,”  Schneider  points  out,  “but  often 
several  property  owners  get  together  and 
pool  their  land  for  hunting.”  The  plan  has 
worked  well  for  several  years,  and  road 


Last  spring  deer  destroyed  an  entire 
field  of  sweet  corn  by  eating  the  tassels, 
and  the  following  fall  they  ate  four 
acres  of  pumpkins  down  to  the  ground. 


kills  (which  claim  over  5,000  deer  state- 
wide each  year),  were  down  in  the  Princeton 
area,  an  indication  of  a smaller  herd. 

In  1987, 44,000  deer  were  killed  during 
hunting  season.  In  1988,  the  Division  of 
Fish  and  Game  increased  the  number  of 
hunting  days  and  the  number  of  days  on 
which  doe  can  be  taken  in  certain  deer 
management  zones. 

It’s  essential  to  reduce  the  doe  popula- 
tion,” says  Steve  George,  who  estimates  the 
deer  herd  at  close  to  300,000,  but  he  points 
out  that  hunters  prefer  buck  to  doe  because 
of  the  antlers  for  the  wall  of  the  trophy 
room. 

Heinrich  says  that’s  not  the  only  reason 
hunters  are  reluctant  to  take  doe:  “There  is 
a Bambi  syndrome  that  affects  hunters,  too. 
Because  many  doe  bom  the  previous  spring 
are  pregnant  by  the  following  fall  hunting 
season,  hunters  are  reluctant  to  shoot 
them.”  She  estimates  the  present  herd  at 
200,000,  and  notes  that  “where  there  is  no 
hunting,  and  there  are  no  natural  predators, 
the  deer  herd  can  increase  35-40  percent 
per  year . . . with  good  fodder,  a mature  doe 
will  produce  two  or  three  fawn  a year.” 

No  one  wants  to  see  the  white  tail  deer 
disappear.  The  graceful  animals  and  their 
appealing  young  are  a valuable  natural 
resource  and  a constant  source  of  aesthetic 
pleasure.  But  for  man  and  deer  to  co-exist 
in  New  Jersey,  and  in  many  parts  of  the 
northeast,  and  to  save  thousands  of  deer 
from  the  horrible  deaths  they  suffer  on  the 
highway,  we  have  to  do  much  more  than 
simply  mend  our  fences. 

• 

Helen  Tower  Brunet  writes  the  weekly  column 
“The  Weekend  Gardener”  for  The  Star-Ledger 
(Newark,  NJ)  and  free-lance  articles  on  garden- 
ing for  other  publications. 

the  green  scene  / January  1989 


ARRIVALS  & 
DEPARTURES 

(^)  by  Susan  W.  Plimpton 


The  author’s  rose  garden  viewed  from  the  terrace  off  the  living  room. 


Many  lovely  houses  lack  one  of 
the  most  important  attributes 
of  good  landscape  design: 
gracious  and  easy  access.  This 
omission  is  unfortunate  because  a pleasant 
arrival  can  set  the  tone  for  the  experience 
within.  A house  without  thought  for  com- 
fortable parking  and  clear  indication  of 
how  to  reach  the  front  door  can  send  a 
message:  somebody  didn’t  care  enough. 

A visitor’s  experience  begins  with  the 
driveway,  and  the  driveway  itself  can  be 
interesting.  The  driveway  on  a larger  pro- 
perty should  feature  a gently  curving  road 
from  which  the  house  gradually  becomes 
visible.  Correctly  graded,  an  attractive 
approach  creates  a relaxed  and  peaceful 
atmosphere.  On  smaller  lots  where  a 
straight  driveway  is  mandated  by  lack  of 
space,  careful  design  is  essential.  Divert 
visiting  cars  away  from  the  garage  doors  by 
swinging  vehicles  into  an  attractive  park- 
ing court.  If  lot  dimensions  are  adequate  it 
is  sometimes  possible  to  close  off  the 

the  green  scene  / January  1989 


yawning  garage  doors  and  to  relocate  them 
to  the  side  of  the  garage.  The  feasibility  of 
this  course  of  action  will  be  determined  by 
local  ordinances  regarding  side  setback 
lines  as  well  as  existing  garage  measure- 
ments. 


At  least  he  will  know  that  he  is  not 
being  pushed  out  the  door,  down  the 
steps  and  into  the  darkness  of  night. 


Parking  should  be  big  enough  to  provide 
sufficient  room  for  the  timid  driver  and 
easy  backing  for  simple  exits.  Parking 
areas  with  a clearly  defined  bumper  strip 
are  much  kinder  than  circle  parking,  which 
creates  an  inefficient  parking  pattern,  es- 
pecially awkward  for  anyone  who  wants  to 
leave  early. 

Builders  surmise  that  the  interior  will 
carry  the  day  leaving  the  entrance  route  to 
the  visitor’s  imagination.  Unhappily  the 


guest  often  chooses  the  back  door  and  is 
treated  to  a preview  of  dinner  much  to  the 
hosts’  chagrin. 

the  front  walk 

The  front  walk  should  be  obvious  im- 
mediately. Provide  a landing  so  that  guests 
aren’t  forced  to  alight  on  to  a muddy  strip 
of  lawn.  Front  walks  should  be  at  least  five 
feet  wide  so  that  two  people  can  walk 
abreast.  Subtle  path  lighting  is  friendly  and 
implies  that  the  homeowner  cares  about 
guests’  safety.  Correctly  planned  lighting 
adds  a pretty  and  practical  note  to  the 
surroundings.  Never  line  a front  walk  with 
lights  staged  to  resemble  an  airport  runway. 

If  steps  are  needed  they  should  have  the 
correct  riser/tread  proportion  for  outdoor 
steps:  twice  the  riser  plus  the  tread  should 
equal  26  to  27  inches.  Following  this 
formula  avoids  steep  steps  that  force  people 
to  hurry,  creating  an  uneasy  footing.  Hand- 
rails are  a thoughtful  addition  and  will  be 
especially  appreciated  by  older  people.  A 

continued 


photo  by  Susan  W.  Plimpton 


photo  by  Susan  W.  Plimpton 


ARRIVALS  & DEPARTURES 


generous  landing  outside  the  door  will 
make  guests  comfortable  while  waiting  for 
the  door  to  be  opened.  A spacious  landing 
will  also  make  the  departing  guest  more 
secure.  At  least  he  will  know  that  he  is  not 
being  pushed  out  the  door,  down  the  steps 
and  into  the  darkness  of  night. 

Adding  an  architecturally  suited  over- 
hang above  the  front  door  can  emphasize 
the  entrance  and  provide  shelter  on  rainy 
nights. 

the  back  door 

Back  doors  need  attention  too.  This  is  the 
door  used  most  frequently  by  families  with 
small  children.  It  is  the  preferred  entrance 
for  workers  and  home  deliveries.  The 
service  walk  should  be  friendly,  safe  and 
smaller  in  scale  than  the  front  entry.  While 
the  front  entrance  may  feature  a curved 
path,  back  doors  are  best  accessed  in  a 
more  direct  fashion  by  means  of  a straight 
walk.  Steps  should  have  a strong  sturdy 
railing  and  follow  the  correct  outdoor 
riser/tread  formula.  A well-placed  bench  is 
a thoughtful  convenience  providing  a place 
upon  which  to  set  grocery  bags  while 
opening  the  door  or  searching  for  keys. 
Foot  scrapers  for  muddy  feet  are  practical 
additions. 


Other  entrances  and  exits  from  the  house 
should  also  be  considered.  Most  important 
of  these  is  the  transition  from  house  to 
terrace.  Bear  in  mind  that  no  outdoor 
sitting  area  will  ever  be  used  to  its  full 
potential  if  it  is  not  readily  accessible. 


No  outdoor  sitting  area  will  ever  be 
used  to  its  full  potential  if  it  is  not 
readily  accessible. 


Typically  a terrace  door  will  open  out  from 
the  living  room.  It  can  also  lead  out  from 
the  dining  room  and/or  family  room  there- 
by expanding  the  use  of  these  rooms  in 
warmer  months.  Wide  french  doors  or 
sliding  doors  are  most  satisfactory  and  give 
a nice  view  of  the  garden  beyond.  The  steps 
down  to  the  terrace  should  be  comfortable 
and  wide  enough  to  match  the  doors  they 
serve. 

entry  and  foundation  plantings 

Entry  plantings  should  be  chosen  for 
their  neat  growth  habit.  Evergreen  plants 
are  preferred  adjacent  to  steps.  Dwarf 
English  boxwood  (Buxus  sempervirens 
‘Suffruticosa’),  small  hollies  such  as  Ilex 
crenata  ‘Helleri’  or  the  graceful  dwarf 


English  yew  (Taxus  baccata  ‘Repandens’) 
are  all  good  choices.  Stay  away  from 
thorny  material  such  as  pyracantha  and  the 
barberries.  Elsewhere  in  the  foundation 
planting  introduce  berried  plants  such  as 
Mahonia  aquifolium  and  Ilex  x meserveae 
‘China  Girl’.  Use  deciduous  plants  to  mark 
the  seasons  lest  spring  come  along  and 
your  monochromatic  foundation  planting 
asks  “What  else  is  new?”  Hamamelis  x 
intermedia  ‘Arnold  Promise’  (witch  hazel) 
blooms  in  late  February  and  is  sure  to  catch 
the  eye  of  even  the  most  jaded  winter 
visitors.  Nor  should  we  forget  fragrance.  A 
lilac  near  the  back  door  seems  right  some- 
how and  its  fragrance  delights  the  passerby. 

A house  is  just  a house  until  its  exterior 
receives  the  love,  attention  and  design  it 
merits.  Start  with  the  driveway,  walks  and 
doors.  Bid  welcome  to  all  who  come  and 
Godspeed  to  those  that  are  on  their  way. 

• 

Susan  W.  Plimpton,  horticulturist  and  landscape 
architect,  has  been  practicing  landscape  archi- 
tecture for  27  years.  Practicing  widely  in  the 
northeast,  Plimpton  Associates  specializes  in 
residential  design,  historic  restoration,  and 
waterfront  property.  She  obtained  her  profes- 
sional training  at  the  Ambler  Campus  of  Temple 
University,  Ambler,  Pa. 


30 


Handsome  courtyard  with  cobblestone  edging  and  landing  complements  the  front  entrance. 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


7 

GROWING  INTERESTS 


Shortia  in  Gyers’  sand  bed. 

Shortia  galacifolia  — Oconee  Bells 

(^)  by  John  and  Janet  Gyer 


People  have  asked  us  about  the  Shortia 
we  entered  in  the  Horticultural  Class  at  the 
Philadelphia  Flower  Show.  They  were  dug 
during  the  January  thaw  from  our  north- 
facing Pine  Barrens  sand  bed.  A few  years 
ago  we  excavated  the  bed  to  a depth  of 
three  feet  and  filled  it  with  sand  ordered 
from  a construction  company  in  Ocean 
County,  New  Jersey.  The  sand  is  not  quite 
as  fine  as  Pine  Barrens  sand,  but  it  contains 
a lot  of  charcoal  that  we  regard  as  the 
“cleanliness  factor”  in  our  experiment. 
Shortia  was  one  of  the  plants  we  experi- 
mented with,  and  to  our  surprise  it  has  done 
quite  well,  although  there  is  no  supple- 
mental watering  in  the  bed  located  right 
next  to  our  front  porch. 

On  the  day  after  the  Flower  Show  we 
visited  Jo  Breneman  to  pay  our  respects  to 
the  mother  Shortia  plant  that  Jo  ordered 
many  years  ago  from  a southern  nursery 
that  is  no  more.*  Jo  has  inspired  our  interest 
in  wildflowers.  The  garden  she  and  Herb 
built  has  been  the  source  for  many  of  us  in 
the  Delaware  Valley  for  wildflowers  such 
as  Shortia,  which  she  has  donated  to  organ- 
izations and  given  to  friends. 


Jo  attributes  her  success  with  Shortia  to 
drainage.  It  is  planted  high  on  a dry  bank 
and  also  on  moist  banks  and  lower  mounds 
with  good  drainage.  Some  are  even  planted 
within  spaces  between  exposed  beech  roots. 
It  should  be  sited  so  that  the  wind  or  a 
helpful  gardener  can  remove  excess  leaves 
and  expose  the  beautiful  burnished  color  of 
its  winter  foliage. 

More  than  15  years  ago  Jo  gave  us 
Shortia  that  we  planted  in  a woods  edge 
setting  that  was  subsequently  decimated  by 
pine  mice.  We  moved  it  to  a wetter  mossy 
spot  we  thought  the  mice  would  not  like, 
but  neither  did  the  Shortia.  Jo  looked  at  it 
and  murmured  “too  low.”  She  was  right. 


* Shortia  cannot  be  shipped  from  certain  states 
where  it  is  an  endangered  species.  The  fas- 
cinating history  of  this  plant  can  be  found  in  an 
article  entitled  “The  Elusive  Shortia”  written  by 
H.  Lincoln  Foster  for  the  Winter  1984  Bulletin  of 
the  American  Rock  Garden  Society.  Because  of 
Foster’s  and  Charles  Moore’s  efforts,  and  others 
dedicated  to  saving  American  native  plants,  we 
can  now  enjoy  the  early  spring  blooms  of  this 
distinctive  plant. 


We  finally  found  a moist  bank  that  we  had 
not  been  able  to  see  under  a tangle  of  grape- 
vines. After  clearing  it  we  planted  Shortia 
with  laurel  seedlings  rescued  from  the 
construction  site  of  a nearby  shopping  area. 
Finally,  Shortia  is  at  home  with  us  on  the  3 1 
bank  of  a former  farm  pond,  and  in  an 
experimental  sand  bed. 

SOURCES 

Vicks  Wildgardens,  Inc. 

Box  1 1 5 

Gladwyne,  Pa.  19035 

215-525-6773 

John  & Janet  Gyer 

Femhill  Farm 

P.  O.  Box  185 

Clarksboro,  N.J.  08020 


• 

John  and  Janet  Gyer  started  their  woodland 
plant  garden  and  vegetable  farm  about  20  years 
ago.  Through  planting  native  species  in  several 
habitat  settings  they  are  now  beginning  to  learn 
the  combinations  of  plants  and  habitats  that  are 
successful  on  their  New  Jersey  farm. 


M 


the  green  scene  / January  1 989 


photo  by  John  Gyer 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


HOTLINE 


Welcome  to  Hotline. 

Every  day,  Monday  through  Friday,  PHS  Hotliners  field  questions  from  distressed, 
concerned  or  just  plain  curious  gardeners.  Often  many  of  our  callers  are  asking  the  same 
questions  (e.g.  what  is  powdery  mildew  and  how  do  you  treat  it  or  what  are  wooly  aphids 
and  how  do  you  get  rid  of  them).  We  believe  there  are  lots  of  gardeners  we  don ’t  hear from 
who  would  be  interested  in  the  Hotline  questions  and  answers.  This  new  feature  will 
include  some  of  the  many  questions  the  Hotline  volunteers  at  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society  are  asked.  If  you  have  a horticultural  question,  please  call  the 
Hotline  at  215-922-8043,  Monday  through  Friday,  9:30  a.m.  to  12  Noon.  (Closed  in 
December.) 

Kathy  Mills 

Assistant  Horticulturist 


Hotline  volunteer,  Wilbur  Zimmerman, 
answered  this  frequently  asked  question  on 
August  8,  1988: 

When  do  I prune  deciduous 
trees  and  shrubs? 

Many  factors  determine  the  best  time  to 
prune:  Why  are  you  pruning?  To  rejuvenate 
an  old  plant?  To  maximize  growth  on  a 
young  plant?  To  minimize  growth  on  a 
plant  that  is  a topiary,  espalier,  or  that  has 
overgrown  its  alloted  space?  To  remove 
dead  and  diseased  branches? 

32  What  are  you  pruning?  Pruning  times 
and  methods  vary  between  deciduous  and 
evergreen  plants.  Each  has  specific  require- 
ments that  merit  consideration  in  your 
decision  about  when  to  prune.  Here  are 
some  guidelines  for  when  to  prune  decidu- 
ous trees  and  shrubs. 

winter  pruning 

Prune  in  late  winter  when  trees  and 
shrubs  have  reached  their  period  of  least 
activity.  Winter  damage  can  be  easily  seen, 
pruned,  and  removed,  causing  minimal 
stress  to  the  plant.  Late  winter  pruning 
maximizes  spring  growth.  Keep  in  mind 
that  any  spring  blooming  plant  that  has  not 
been  on  a strict  pruning  schedule  will  have 
a spring  flush  of  growth  that  may  be  at  the 
expense  of  flower  and  fruit  set.  Deciduous 
hedges  pruned  at  this  time  can  be  easily 
thinned  out  and  cut  back.  In  the  spring  the 
plant  will  respond  by  quickly  filling  in  and 
covering  the  evidence  of  pruning. 


spring  pruning 

Prune  dead  and  diseased  branches  when- 
ever they  appear,  as  part  of  normal  garden 
maintenance.  That  is  the  only  pruning  that 
should  be  done  in  the  early  spring,  because 
it  is  a time  of  heightened  activity  for  trees 
and  shrubs.  Sugars  are  moving  from  the 
roots,  up  through  the  plant  to  push  out  new 
buds,  open  up  new  leaves  and  begin  new 
growth.  Sap  in  excessive  amounts  can  be 
lost  through  pruning  wounds  created  at  this 
time,  injuring  the  plant. 

Spring  is  also  a time  of  high  moisture. 
The  wetness  of  spring  coupled  with  a few 
warm  days  creates  ideal  conditions  for 
growing  fungi.  Fungus  will  quickly  find  a 
home  in  a wound  opened  on  a freshly 
pruned  tree  or  shrub.  Waiting  until  late 
spring  or  early  summer  to  prune  places  the 
least  stress  on  your  woody  ornamental 
plant.  By  this  time,  sap  flow  has  stabilized 
and  early  spring  rains  have  subsided.  The 
plant  has  the  energy  from  new  growth  to 
quickly  heal  pruning  wounds.  Late  spring 
is  the  ideal  time  to  prune  most  deciduous 
trees  and  shrubs:  after  they  bloom  and 
before  they  set  bud  for  next  year. 

summer  pruning 

Summer  pruning  restricts  the  growth  of 
deciduous  trees  and  shrubs.  Early  summer 
is  the  ideal  time  to  shear  formal  hedges. 
Mid-summer  pruning  minimizes  the  plants’ 
capability  for  regrowth.  This  is  the  time  to 
prune  espaliers,  topiaries,  and  any  plant 
that  has  overgrown  its  area.  Trees  such  as 
maples  and  birches,  which  are  heavy 


bleeders,  should  also  be  pruned  at  this  time 
because  of  the  diminished  nutrient  trans- 
port from  roots  to  branches. 

fall  pruning 

Pruning  in  the  fall  impairs  a plant’s 
ability  to  overwinter.  Food  flowing  from 
the  leaves  to  the  roots  is  stored  as  starch  in 
the  roots  and  provides  the  plant  with  the 
energy  it  needs  for  winter  maintenance  and 
its  growth  spurt  the  following  spring.  Early 
fall  pruning  depletes  the  amount  of  starch 
available  to  the  tree  for  the  winter  season. 
Although  trees  and  shrubs  appear  dormant 
in  the  late  fall  they  are  still  very  active.  The 
leaves  are  gone  and  the  pruning  looks  easy, 
but  pruning  in  the  late  fall  can  increase 
winter  injury. 

Keep  in  mind  that  when  you  prune  a tree 
or  shrub  you  are  creating  an  open  wound 
into  which  disease  and  insects  can  be 
introduced.  To  minimize  risk,  never  prune 
during  a hot  and/or  wet  period.  Prune  all 
injured,  dead  and  diseased  branches  as 
soon  as  they  are  visible.  Prune  to  keep  the 
plant  open  so  that  air  circulates  easily 
through  the  plant. 

Holiday  Plants 

The  holiday  season  finds  many  new 
plants  in  our  homes.  Here  are  a few  tips  on 
how  to  keep  some  old  favorites  blooming 
for  as  long  as  possible.  For  more  informa- 
tion about  summer  growth  and  reflowering 
check  any  of  the  excellent  books  on  house- 
plants  available  at  the  Pennsylvania  Horti- 
cultural Society’s  library.  continued 

the  green  scene  / january  1989 


Poinsettia  (Euphorbia  pulcherrima) 

The  poinsettia  needs  six  hours  of  light, 
temperatures  of  65°-70°  during  the  day 
and  60°-65°  at  night  to  extend  the  bloom 
time  in  your  home.  Don’t  let  leaves  or  the 
colorful  bracts  touch  cold  windowpanes, 
and  keep  the  plant  from  hot  and  cold  drafts. 
When  the  soil  is  dry  to  the  touch,  water  the 
plant  until  water  runs  from  the  bottom  of 
the  pot.  Be  sure  to  empty  the  saucer. 

Cyclamen  (Cyclamen  persicum) 

The  cyclamen  likes  to  be  kept  cool, 
especially  while  in  bloom.  Temperatures  of 
55°-60°  are  ideal.  The  cyclamen  likes  a 
bright  spot  out  of  direct  sun  and  a soil  that 
is  kept  evenly  moist.  Keep  a high  humidity 
around  the  plant  by  misting  daily  or  using  a 


pebble  tray  under  the  plant  while  it  is  in 
bloom 

Amaryllis  (Hippeastrum  hybrids) 

The  amaryllis  needs  a bright  spot  with 
some  sun  while  it  flowers.  Temperatures  of 
65°-70°  will  maximize  the  bloom  period. 
To  keep  the  humidity  high,  use  a pebble 
tray  or  mist  daily,  being  careful  not  to  wet 
the  flower.  The  soil  should  be  kept  evenly 
moist.  When  the  flowers  die,  cut  off  the 
flowering  stalk  and  reduce  watering. 

Christmas  Cactus  (Schlumbergera 
truncata  or  S.  bridgesii) 

Your  Christmas  cactus  will  perform  its 
best  with  a day  temperature  of  65°-75°  and 
a night  temperature  of  55°-65°.  Moderate 


LETTERS  TO  THE 


Dear  Editor, 

After  reading  Anne  S.  Cunningham’s 
article  in  your  September-October  issue  — 
“Fairmount  Park:  A Good  Beginning  or 
The  Beginning  of  the  End,”  I felt  sad  that 
some  of  my  favorite  native  trees  were  not 
mentioned. 

I agree  that  planting  and  caring  for 
Center  City  trees  is  for  knowledgeable 
people,  so  I’m  happy  to  hear  that  this  is  in 
the  hands  of  experts. 

I am  an  ordinary  citizen  — who  loves 
trees.  For  the  last  26  years  I’ve  been  lucky 
enough  to  own  a small  plot  of  land  almost 
alongside  Pennypack  Park. 

I can  assure  you  that  it  costs  much  less 
than  $150  to  plant  a tree.  It  can  cost 
nothing.  To  care  for  the  tree  is,  of  course, 
another  story. 

A stand  of  tall,  straight  beech  trees  near 
here  was  recently  blown  down  by  a violent 
storm.  Their  bodies  simply  rotted  where 
they  fell.  However  there  are  still  plenty 
near  “Cristal  Springs”  (Rorsland  and 
Rhawn)  and  they  have  been  a “sight  to  see” 
in  their  autumn  foliage.  I don’t  know 
whether  these  are  native  or  European. 
They  seem  like  those  I knew  in  Ireland  (my 
birthplace)  but  the  mast  does  not  contain 
live  kernels  and  would  never  do  to  “feed 
hogs”  as  old  books  advise.  These  seems  to 

the  green  scene  / january  1989 


propagate  by  suckers.  I grew  one  which  is 
now  disfigured  by  “utility  wire”  employees. 
This  is  the  fate  of  many  “street”  trees. 

There  are  still  a few  white  pines  which 
once,  apparently,  covered  this  area.  I sup- 
pose they  were  annihilated  by  builders  and 
many  crossed  the  Atlantic  many  times  as 
the  tall  masts  of  American  ships.  They  are 
easy  to  grow  and  mature  quickly  (20  feet  or 
more  in  as  many  years). 

I am  particularly  interested  in  black 
walnuts.  This  is  a truly  American  version 
and  a valuable  cabinetmaker’s  tree.  A 
mature  tree  is  worth  thousands  of  dollars 
and  they  seem  to  be  able  to  look  after 
themselves.  I wonder,  is  there  any  reason 
why  Fairmount  Park  should  not  “harvest” 


light  and  high  humidity  will  keep  the 
cactus  blooming.  Drafts,  sudden  tempera- 
ture changes,  and  soil  drying  out  in  the  pot 
will  severely  shorten  the  time  you  have  to 
enjoy  the  bloom. 

Recommended  Reading 

Growing  Plants  Indoors 
Emesta  Ballard 

Bames  & Noble  Books,  New  York 
1971 

Indoor  Plants  — Comprehensive  Care  & Culture 
Doris  Hirsch 

Chilton  Book  Co.,  Radnor,  PA 
1977 

Rodale 's  Encyclopedia  of  Indoor  Gardening 
Anne  M.  Halpin,  ed. 

Rodale  Press,  Emmaus,  PA 
1980  • 


EDITOR 


suitable  specimens  — thereby  producing 
some  income?  Aside  from  this  they  are 
truly  beautiful.  I love  to  look  up  into  their 
fernlike  leaves  towering  above  me  in 
summertime.  But  I would  not  grow  one 
near  a dwelling. 

“Pennypack  People”  consider  “their” 
park  to  be  more  attractive  than  the  Wissa- 
hickon  area  because  no  public  roads 
traverse  its  quietude. 

A small  tree  which  I dislike  on  account 
of  the  prickly  leaves  it  sheds,  but  for  which 
I have  now  become  an  advocate,  is  the 
common  American  holly.  One  day  I dis- 
covered a flock  of  cedar  waxwings 
devouring  the  berries.  It  was  my  first 
encounter  with  these  spectacular  birds  and 
I will  gladly  suffer  to  bring  them  back 
again. 

There  are  a few  hickory  trees  nearby  but 
not  flourishing  — probably  crowded  out. 

Thank  you  for  Anne  S.  Cunningham’s 
article. 


Phyllis  H.  Stein 
Philadelphia 

All  that  and  I didn’t  mention  dogwood 
trees ...  • 


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— A free  service  for  Green  Scene  readers 

If  you  can’t  locate  a much  wanted  plant 
send  your  name  and  address  (include  zip), 
the  botanical  and  common  names  of  the 
plant  to  Plant  Finder,  Green  Scene,  PHS, 
325  Walnut  St.,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 

WANTED 

Caladium  humboldtii.  (Mini  Caladium) 
Contact  Mario  A.  DiPuppo,  6527  Girard 
Avenue,  Philadelphia,  PA  19151. 

Tilia  petiolaris.  Contact  W.G.  Drake, 
45  High  Banks  Drive,  Easton,  MD  21601. 


Statement  of  Ownership  Management  and  Circulation  (Act  of  October  23, 
1962;  Section  4369,  Title  39.  United  States  Code) 

1 Date  of  Filing:  September  28,  1988  2.  Title  of  Publication:  The  Green 
Scene.  3 Frequency  of  issue:  bimonthly  4-5  Location  of  Known  Office  of 
Publication  and  Headquarters:  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
6.  Names  and  Addresses  of  Publisher  and  Editor  Publisher  — Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106;  Editor  — Jean  Byrne,  325 
Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106.  7.  Owner  The  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society,  Philadelphia.  Pa.  19106.  8.  Known  bondholders, 
mortgages  and  other  security  holders  holding  one  percent  or  more  of  total 
amount  of  bonds,  mortgages  or  other  securities:  None.  9.  Extent  and  Nature 
of  Circulation: 

Average  No.  Copies  Single  Issue 


Each  Issue  During 

Nearest  to 

Preceding  12  Mos. 

Filing  Date 

A. 

Total  No.  Copies  Printed 
(new  press  run) 

12,592 

12,800 

B. 

Paid  Circulation: 

Sales  through  dealers  and  carriers, 
street  vendors  and  counter  sales 

960 

528 

Mail  Subscriptions 

11,309 

12,012 

C. 

Total  Paid  Circulation 

12,269 

12,540 

D 

Free  distribution  by  mail,  carrier  or 
other  means,  samples,  complimentary 
and  other  free  copies 

110 

170 

E. 

Total  Distribution  (sum  of  C and  D) 

12,379 

12,710 

F. 

Copies  not  distributed: 

Office  use,  left  over,  unaccounted, 
spoiled  after  printing 

213 

90 

Return  from  new  agents 

0 

0 

G. 

Total  (sum  E and  F should  equal  net 
press  run  in  A) 

12,592 

12,800 

I certify  that  the  statements  made  by  me  above  are  correct  and  complete. 

Jean  Bynie,  Editor 


CLASSIFIED  ADS 


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the  green  scene  / January  1989 


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_ 


the  green  scene  / January  1989 


Sew  Strawberfm 
Ul-Male  Aspam 
Chocolate  Peppe 
n the  Garden 

tee  page  25 


in  this  issue 


Front  Cover 

New  Strawberries,  All-Male 
Asparagus  and  Chocolate 
Peppers  in  the  Garden 

photo  by  Derek  Fell 


3.  From  the  Flower  Show 
to  the  Junior  Flower  Show 

Jean  Byrne 

4.  Gladiolus  Tristis 

Bonnie  S.  Day 

7.  Verbascum,  Mid- 
Summer  Stars 

John  P.  Swan 

1 1 . The  Winning  Ways 
of  the  Young 

Libby  Goldstein 

15.  House  Plants  Work 
to  Clean  Indoor  Air 

Amalie  Adler  Ascher 

18.  Grand  Prize  Winner 
in  the  PHS  Photo  Contest 


20.  The  Junior  Flower 
Show 

Natalie  Kempner 

25.  All-Male  Asparagus, 
Chocolate  Peppers  & All- 
Season  Strawberries 
Prove  Themselves  in  the 
Home  Garden 
Derek  Fell 

28.  Plant  Societies 
Meetings  in  1989 

30.  Amaryllis,  They 
Keep  Coming  Back 

Todd  R Phillippi 

32.  Hotline 

Kathy  Mills 

34.  Classified  Advertising 


Volume  17,  Number  4 March/ April  1989 

THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY 
325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon 

Robert  S.  Ryan  / Chair  Joseph  P.  Robinson  / Editorial  Assistant 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byrne  / Editor  Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 

PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 

Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Steven  A.  Frowine  Natalie  Kempner 

Darrel  Apps  Adele  G.  Greenfield  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell,  Baxendells'  Graphic 

Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 

Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 

THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580),  Volume  17,  No.  4,  published  bimonthly,  January,  March,  May, 
July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non-profit  membership 
organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription:  $8.50— Single  Copy:  $1.50. 
Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  • POSTMASTER:  Send  address  change  to  THE 
GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 

® Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  1989 


Back  Cover 

photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


CORRECTION:  The  photographs  accom- 
panying the  Jimmy  Paolini  (pages  4-7) 
story  in  the  January  1989  issue  of  Green 
Scene  were  taken  by  Lynn  Radeloff  not 
Ken  Radeloff. 


Green  Scene  subscriptions  are  part 

Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
Maryland  Horticultural  Society 
Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 


membership  benefits  for 

Blithewold  Gardens  and  Arboretum 
Hershey  Gardens  of  Hershey,  PA 
Cox  Arboretum 


of  the 


From  the  Flower  Show 
to  the  Junior  Flower  Show 


M)  By  Jean  Byrne 


March  is  a lively  month  at  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society;  so  many  members  are  involved 
in  the  Flower  Show,  forcing,  grooming  and  exhibiting  plants  as  well  as  catching  up  on  what  their 
neighbors  are  growing.  At  last  year’s  Show,  Horticourt  exhibitor  Dick  Both’s  Gladiolus  tristus  was  one 
of  the  many  topics  of  conversation  because  it’s  lovely,  it’s  not  easy  to  grow,  and  it’s  not  readily 
available  in  this  country.  For  those  of  you  who  want  to  try  it,  Bonnie  Day  tells  how  Dick  Both 
cultivates  this  hard-to-grow  plant.  We’re  looking  forward  to  checking  out  the  aisles  at  this  year’s 
Show  to  see  what  other  challenges  we  can  find  to  share  with  our  readers. 

One  of  the  reasons  experienced  gardeners  work  so  hard  at  the  Show  is  the  camaraderie  and  the 
chance  to  learn  from  other  fine  growers.  Two  stories  in  this  issue  are  about  children  who  are  also 
learning  about  growing  and  showing:  one  about  the  Junior  Flower  Show,  and  one  about  the  young 
winners  in  the  City  Gardens  contest. 

Natalie  Kempner,  who  chairs  the  Junior  Show,  has  told  elsewhere  about  how  15  years  ago  she 
included  the  word  “field”  in  a lesson,  and  not  one  child  in  her  West  Kensington  classroom  knew  what 
the  word  meant  in  relation  to  plants. 

Kempner,  concerned  with  this  “dangerous  ignorance,”  went  on  to  found  The  Norris  Square 
Neighborhood  Project  Urban  Environmental  Education  Center  in  the  Kensington  area  so  these 
children  could  go  in  groups  of  six  to  places  like  the  Morris  Arboretum  and  Fairmount  Park.  She 
wanted  to  teach  them  how  to  plant  seeds  at  the  same  time  they  learned  how  to  read  and  write.  In  her 
article  about  the  Junior  Flower  Show,  she  recalls  how  teachers  back  then  began  to  fight  this 
“dangerous  plant  illiteracy”  in  the  schools,  by  attending  PHS  workshops  and  bringing  projects  back  to 
the  classes.  Through  classes  and  the  Junior  Show,  she  believes  children  can  discover  how  plants  are 
our  links  to  survival. 

We  were  exhilarated  when  we  attended  the  City  Gardening  Contest  Awards  ceremonies  in 
September  where  148  awards  were  made  for  individual  and  community  gardening  projects.  We 
cheered  loudly  in  the  Children’s  section  for  the  energetic  and  dedicated  young  gardeners  who  already 
appreciate  on  some  level  Kempner’s  message  “plants  must  grow  or  we  die.”  Of  course  these 
exuberant  gardeners  are  anything  but  grim  as  they  dig  in.  The  dirt  flies,  and  a hundred  flowers  and 
vegetables  contend.  Libby  Goldstein  tells  the  story  of  two  groups  of  young  gardeners  and  two  talented 
individuals,  all  keepers  of  the  gardening  flame. 


3 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


Gladiolus  tristis,  a fragrant,  winter-blooming  flower  that  prefers  a 
cool  greenhouse,  challenges  freesia’s  hold  on  our  minds  and  senses.  Its 
nodding  yellow  inflorescence  produces  an  appealing  scent  rivaling  that 
of  any  other  winter-blooming  plant.  A South  African  native,  G.  tristis 
is  an  elegant,  refined  plant. 


Its  grass-like  leaves  are  cylindrical  in 
shape,  about  18  inches  tall.  Each  corm 
produces  one  spike  of  three  or  four  pendu- 
lous, trumpet-shaped  flowers,  which  arch 
gracefully  over  the  leaves.  The  flower’s 
elongated,  pale  yellow  tube  flares  into 
three  upper  and  three  lower  segments 
flushed  or  marked  with  mauve.  In  nature, 
the  plant  is  most  fragrant  at  night;  indoors 
its  scent  persists  when  the  plant  is  out  of  the 
sun’s  light.  Depending  on  whom  you  ask, 
G.  tristis  is  sweetly  scented  or  spicy,  like 
carnations.  Richard  Both,  a Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society  member  and  a dedi- 
cated gardener,  calls 
it  just  plain  delight- 
ful. He  should  know. 

Both  is  one  of  a very 
small  number  of 
people  growing  the 
plant  on  the  East 
Coast,  and  probably 
the  first  to  do  so  in 
the  Delaware  Valley.  Since  1982,  Both’s 
pots  of  G.  tristis  have  been  a regular  feature 
at  the  Philadelphia  Flower  Show.  So  suc- 
cessful has  he  been  in  growing  the  plant 
that  other  gardeners  have  been  inspired  to 
try  it  too. 

Growing  G.  tristis  is  not  as  unusual  an 
activity  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  The 
plant  has  been  in  cultivation  in  Europe 
since  the  Dutch  and  British  began  import- 
ing the  corms  from  South  Africa  nearly 
250  years  ago.  Growers  were  initially  more 
interested  in  its  medicinal  properties.  The 
first  G.  tristis  known  to  have  bloomed  in 
Europe  flowered  in  England’s  Chelsea 
Physic  Garden  in  1 745.  After  it  bloomed  in 
the  garden  at  Sweden’s  Uppsala  University 
in  1759,  Linnaeus  named  it.  A description 
of  the  plant  appears  in  the  first  volume  of 
the  second  edition  of  Linnaeus’  Species 
Plantarum,  published  in  1762.  Linnaeus 
did  not  seem  to  be  particularly  taken  with 
the  plant,  calling  it  a sad-colored  flower. 
Other  growers,  recognizing  its  potential  as 
an  ornamental  plant  and  source  of  fra- 
grance for  other  gladiolus  hybrids,  were 
more  impressed.  By  the  early  nineteenth 
century,  hybridization  using  G.  tristis  and 
other  gladiolus  species  was  in  full  swing.  A 
botanical  variety  of  G.  tristis  concolor,  was 
one  parent  in  a cross  made  by  the  English 
firm  of  James  Colville  and  Sons.  Hortus  III 


calls  the  result,  G.  x Colvillei,  one  of  the 
earliest  known  garden  hybrids.  Three  of 
the  original  hybrids,  ‘Roseus,’  ‘Ruber,’  and 
‘Albus’  are  still  in  the  trade  today. 

More  than  mere  fodder  in  the  gladiolus 
hybridizing  machine,  G.  tristis  has  also 
been  grown  outdoors  by  gardeners  in 
warmer,  temperate  parts  of  the  world. 
Southern  California  is  the  place  for  G.  tristis 
in  the  United  States,  as  is  the  south  and  west 
of  England,  where  the  winters  are  mild.  It 
can  only  be  grown  as  a greenhouse  plant 
here  on  our  part  of  the  East  Coast.  In  its 
native  habitat,  the  southwestern  part  of  the 
South  African  Cape, 
G.  tristis  grows  in 
marshy  ground  near 
streams  and  small 
ponds  called  vleis. 
There  the  rains  come 
in  the  winter,  and 
the  summer  is  hot 
and  dry.  Thus,  un- 
like the  familiar  garden  gladiolus,  G.  tristis 
grows  in  the  winter  and  is  dormant  during 
the  summer,  both  here  and  in  South  Africa. 

discovering  the  plant 

Dick  Both  first  learned  of  G.  tristis  in  the 
course  of  his  business  trips  to  South  Africa. 
As  a representative  for  Hercules’  agricul- 
tural chemicals,  Both  travelled  all  over 
Africa,  South  America,  and  Europe,  work- 
ing with  experimental  agricultural  research 
centers  to  develop  products  to  fit  their 
specific  needs.  When  Both’s  South  African 
friends  learned  that  he  was  growing  Dutch 
freesia  in  his  greenhouse  at  home,  they 
introduced  him  to  something  even  better: 
G.  tristis,  a plant  similar  to  freesia  in  culture, 
but  with  a stronger,  more  pleasing  fragrance. 

That  was  the  beginning  of  the  odyssey  of 
G.  tristis  from  South  Africa  to  a prize- 
winning appearance  at  the  Philadelphia 
Flower  Show.  Acquiring  the  plant  was 
difficult.  Importation  of  the  corms  to  the 
United  States  is  prohibited,  so  Both  had  to 
settle  for  seed,  which  he  purchased  from 
South  Africa  in  the  early  1970s.  Then  he 
began  to  figure  out  how  to  grow  it.  “I  had  to 
do  a lot  of  experimentation  at  first,”  he 
explains.  “My  soil  conditions  weren't  the 
same,  the  climatic  conditions  were  differ- 
ent. I had  seen  them  growing  in  South 
Africa  and  learned  through  correspondence 


He  has  traded  and  shared  G.  tristis 
corms  with  growers  as  varied  in  size 
and  style  as  Wave  Hill , Brooklyn 
Botanic  Garden,  Brookside  Garden, 
and  many  individual  growers. 


An 

elegant 

winter- 

blooming 

plant 

from 

South 

Africa 


5 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


continued 


with  the  American  Plant  Life  Society  that 
people  on  the  West  Coast  were  growing 
them,  but  there  wasn’t  anyone  on  the  East 
Coast  who  was  growing  them  at  the  time.” 
His  correspondence  and  research  eventu- 
ally did  give  him  the  clues  he  needed  to 
grow  the  plant  successfully. 

“After  a couple  of  years  of  experimen- 
tation,” Both  recalls,  “I  found  that  the  real 
challenge  was  to  get  them  to  bloom  in  time 
for  the  Philadelphia  Flower  Show.”  Enter- 
ing the  gladioli  in  the  Show  was  the  late 
Lois  Paul’s  idea.  So  impressed  was  Paul, 
the  former  director  of  Education  at  Long- 
wood  Gardens,  with  the  beauty  of  G.  tristis 
that  she  encouraged  Both  to  show  them. 
There  was  one  problem:  at  that  time,  there 
was  no  class  for  non-hardy  bulbs  in  the 
horticultural  competition.  Paul  helped 
change  that,  and  in  1982  Both  entered  his 
G.  tristis  for  the  first  time.  He  won  a blue 
ribbon. 

how  to  grow  it 

Growing  G.  tristis  is  very  much  like . 
growing  freesia.  Both  begins  planting  the 
corms  in  mid-September  and  continues 
planting  every  other  week  for  a six-  to 
eight-week  period  to  lengthen  the  amount 
of  time  he  has  plants  in  bloom.  A soil 
mixture  composed  of  1/3  compost,  1/3 
coarse  sand,  and  1/3  soilless  mix  is  the 
closest  Both  can  get  to  the  gritty  humus  the 
plants  grow  in  on  the  South  African  Cape. 
At  least  14  of  the  tiny,  1 /2-inch  corms  go 
into  a seven-  or  eight-inch  clay  pot.  Both 
plants  the  corms  fairly  shallowly,  about 
1 /2-inch  deep,  and  keeps  them  on  the  dry 
side  until  the  leaves  poke  out  of  the  soil. 
From  then  on,  the  soil  is  always  moist. 
After  the  leaves  have  appeared,  five  green 
14-gauge  wire  stakes  are  inserted  around 
the  edge  of  each  pot,  parallel  to  the  side  of 
the  pot.  Both  winds  green  florists’  string  in 
a star  pattern  around  the  stakes,  providing 
a network  of  support  for  the  slender  leaves 
and  flower  stalks.  As  the  leaves  grow,  he 
moves  the  string  up  the  stakes. 

Gladiolus  tristis  grows  best  for  Both 
when  temperatures  are  45-50°  F at  night, 
and  65-70°  F during  the  day.  Both’s  green- 
house, attached  to  his  house,  gets  only  six 
hours  of  good  light  in  the  winter.  That  is  an 
adequate  amount  of  light;  however,  the 
plants  would  grow  and  flower  more  quickly 
if  there  was  more.  A weekly  fertilization  of 
one  half  strength  20-20-20  from  the  time 
the  plants  begin  actively  growing  until 
January  is  all  the  additional  care  G.  tristis 
needs  until  it  finishes  blooming.  A bit  of  tip 
burn  may  appear  on  the  leaves,  but  that 
seems  to  be  normal,  even  in  nature. 

Once  the  flowers  have  died.  Both  cuts 


off  their  stalks  and  resumes  the  weekly 
feedings  until  the  leaves  begin  to  yellow  in 
June.  By  June  15th,  all  of  the  leaves  are 
dead.  The  pots  are  placed  on  their  sides, 
and  the  soil  is  allowed  to  dry  out.  The 
corms  remain  in  the  soil  in  Both's  hot,  dry 
greenhouse  for  most  of  the  summer.  When 


SOURCES 

Indigenous  Gladiolus  Nursery 
44  Nederburgh  Street 
Welgemoed,  Bellville,  7530 
Republic  of  South  Africa 
(seed  only) 

International  Growers’  Exchange 
Box  52248 
Livonia,  MI  48152 

Anthony  Skittone 
1415  Eucalyptus  Drive 
San  Francisco,  CA  941 16 

Guy  Wrinkle 

11610  Addison  Street 

North  Hollywood,  CA  91601 

For  more  information: 

The  American  Plant  Life  Society 
Box  985 

National  City,  CA  92050 

Indigenous  Bulb  Growers  Association 
of  South  Africa 
Box  141 

Woodstock  7915 
Republic  of  South  Africa 

University  of  California,  Irvine,  Gene  Bank 
University  of  California,  Irvine,  Arboretum 
Irvine,  CA  9271 1 

The  Winter-Growing  Gladioli  of  South 
Africa,  G.R.  Delpierre  and  N.M.  duPlessis, 
Tafel-Uitgewers  Beperk  and  Nasionale 
Boekhandel,  1973. 


Both  removes  the  corms  from  the  soil  in 
mid- August,  he  separates  and  grades  them. 
G.  tristis  is  a prolific  plant,  increasing  by  as 
much  as  50%  each  growing  season.  Corm- 
lets  smaller  than  1 / 4 inch  are  too  small  to 
bloom  the  following  year.  These  Both 
saves  and  grows  on  another  season,  until 
they  reach  blooming  size,  about  3/8  to  1 12 
inch.  Any  container  will  do  for  storing  the 
corms  until  planting  time  next  September, 
as  long  as  the  corms  are  dry. 

Few  insects  or  diseases  bother  G.  tristis. 
Both  has  had  some  trouble  with  aphids,  but 
virus  is  the  biggest  threat  to  the  plant’s 
health.  To  avoid  an  epidemic,  he  pitches 
any  plant  that  looks  vaguely  suspicious: 
weak,  mottled,  distorted  or  stunted.  Another 
precaution  Both  takes  is  to  dust  the  bulbs 
with  an  all-purpose  fungicide  and  insecti- 
cide mixture  before  storing  them. 

other  Cape  gladioli 

G.  tristis  is  not  the  only  Cape  gladiolus 
Dick  Both  grows.  He  estimates  that  he  has 
grown  15  to  20  different  species  and 
cultivars,  and  given  away  hundreds  of 
corms.  He  has  traded  and  shared  G.  tristis 
corms  with  growers  as  varied  in  size  and 
style  as  Wave  Hill,  Brooklyn  Botanic 
Garden,  Brookside  Garden,  and  many  in- 
dividual growers.  His  generosity  has  created 
competition  for  his  plants  in  the  Philadel- 
phia Flower  Show.  Other  growers  have 
shown  their  G.  tristis  and  won  prizes  for 
them.  For  Both,  it  is  all  part  of  the  fun  of 
growing  and  showing  plants.  He  still  has  a 
few  tricks  up  his  sleeve,  anyway. 

Both’s  most  recent  acquisition  is 
Gladiolus  ‘Christabel,’  a hybrid  of  G.  tristis 
and  G.  virescens  made  by  the  late  Dr.  T.  T. 
Barnard,  a twentieth-century  English 
gladiolus  breeder.  The  ‘Christabel’  flower 
is  yellow,  and  extremely  fragrant  both  day 
and  night.  Both  got  his  from  an  English 
acquaintance  during  a trip  to  Great  Britain. 
He  has  been  growing  it  for  a few  years  and 
has  a good  supply  of  corms.  But  he  is  not 
sharing  this  one,  not  yet.  “I’m  not  sharing 
those  with  anybody  until  I can  show  it  at 
the  Philadelphia  Flower  Show,”  he 
chuckles.  “Once  people  see  it,  they’re 
going  to  ask  me  for  it.” 

• 

Bonnie  Day  is  a graduate  of  the  University  of 
Delaware’s  Longwood  Program,  with  an  M.S.  in 
Ornamental  Horticulture.  For  more  than  1 Vi 
years  she  coordinated  Longwood  Gardens’ 
compliance  with  Federal  and  State  Right-to- 
Know  laws  relating  to  hazardous  chemicals. 
Starting  in  January  1989  she  began  working  on 
Special  Projects  for  the  Wilmington  Garden 
Center,  and  as  a writer/editor  for  E.  I.  Du  Pont 
de  Nemours  Co.,  Inc.  Publications  Section  of  the 
Specialty  Services  Division. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


VERBASCUM, 

MIDSUMMER 

STARS 


(^)  By  John  P.  Swan 


We  all  have  our 
favorites.  Call 
them  your  plant 
pets,  if  you  wish.  But  what 
fun  it  is  to  pick  a pet  plant, 
then  branch  out  and  dis- 
cover the  marvelous  diversi- 
ty among  its  relatives  in  the 
genus.  Trying  out  uncom- 
mon and  perhaps  new-to- 
you  varieties  adds  zest  and 
excitement  to  gardening. 

Not  all  will  work  out,  but 
some  will  surprise  you. 

Anticipation  is  part  of  the 
fun,  successes  are  the 
reward. 

the  summer  of  '88 

So  at  this  point,  who 
wants  to  be  reminded  of  the 
Summer  of  ’88?  The  only 
summer  in  memory  that 
made  gardeners  wish  for  winter.  Sort  of, 
that  is.  For  us,  it  was  the  proving  ground  for 
the  great  American  Verbascum  experiment. 

As  we  all  know,  the  mid-summer  months 
of  July  and  August  are  a challenge  for 
Delaware  Valley  gardeners.  It’s  too  hot,  too 
humid,  or  too  dry.  Last  summer  packed  it 
all  in  at  the  same  time.  Plants  struggled 
under  the  stress.  Watering  when  you  could 
do  it,  helped  the  garden  to  survive,  but 
many  plants  just  hung  on  unable  to  show 


the  most  talked  about 
plants 

Yet  the  little-known 
Verbascum  were  the  most 
noticed,  most  talked  about 
plants  in  our  garden.  They 
outshone  the  perennials  that 
we  worked  so  hard  to  keep 
alive,  our  extensive  vege- 
table garden,  and  even  our 
pet  meadow  garden.  The 
huge,  statuesque  flower 
spikes  of  Verbascum  olym- 
picum  and  Verbascum  x 
hybridum  caught  everyone’s 
eyes.  Towering  up  to  seven 
feet  high  were  shimmering 
candelabras  of  hundreds  of 
brilliant  yellow  flowers, 
each  the  size  of  a quarter. 

Only  slightly  less  tall,  but 
a show  stopper  in  its  own 
right,  was  V.  bombyciferum 
‘Silver  Lining.’  Its  larger,  purest-of-yellow 
flowers  looking  for  all  the  world  as  if  they 
were  pasted  on  the  solitary  woolly  white 
spires. 

roadside  weed  to  garden  beauty 

Mention  Verbascum.  Many  people  will 
think  of  the  coarse  giant  mullein  some- 
times called  flannel  plant  or  beggar’s 
blanket.  A common  roadside  sight  with  its 
second-year  columnar  flower  stalk,  it 


Tall,  brilliant  yellow  Verbascum  olympicum  is  sturdy  enough  to  withstand  summer 
squalls  without  staking. 

off  their  true  finery.  Lawns  burned  to  a crisp. 

In  addition  to  weather  problems  some 
gardens  suffer  a mid-summer  flowering 
slump  every  year,  particularly  in  compari- 
son to  the  glorious  bursts  of  color  in  May 
and  June.  One  plant  that’s  nature-made  to 
conquer  all  these  mid-season  blahs  is  the 
Verbascum.  For  an  uncommon  plant,  it’s 
uncommonly  beautiful.  The  striking  vari- 
eties in  this  genus  are  too  often  overlooked, 
difficult  at  best  to  find  in  garden  centers. 


☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ 


☆ ☆ ft  ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


continued 


7 


thrives  in  waste  places  under  the  harshest 
of  conditions.  V.  thapsus  is  hardly  a plant 
that  makes  it  on  anyone’s  best  seller  list 
today. 

But  it  wasn’t  always  that  way.  The 
literature  reveals  that  in  Roman  times  the 
stalk  was  dipped  in  suet  to  make  torches  for 
funeral  processions.  The  woolly  leaves 
were  valued  by  the  classical  Greeks  as 
lamp  wicks,  while  the  American  colonists 
stuffed  them  inside  their  stockings  to  keep 
their  feet  warm. 


Any  plant  that  can  stand  up  to  drought 
and  heat  while  continuing  to  bloom 
earns  my  respect. 


The  mullein  was  probably  brought  to  the 
colonies  as  a medicinal  herb,  but  it  was  also 
used  for  dyes  while  the  soft,  velvety  leaves 
provided  dressings  for  wounds.  It  is  said 
that,  since  make-up  was  forbidden,  young 
Quaker  maidens  rubbed  the  leaves  on  their 
cheeks  to  give  them  a rosy  glow.  This 
neglected  giant  deserves  more  respect. 

From  my  contemporary  view,  any  plant 
that  can  stand  up  to  drought  and  heat  while 
continuing  to  bloom  earns  my  respect.  It 
was  these  qualities  that  piqued  my  curiosity 
and  started  the  search  for  cultivated  species 
to  try  in  our  garden. 

My  knowledge  of  these  plants  was  slim 
indeed,  having  never  grown  Verbascum 
and  seldom  having  seen  them  in  other 
gardens.  Yet,  there  are  some  250  species 
native  to  Europe  and  central  Asia.  A few 
rank  among  the  oldest  of  cultivated  garden 
plants.  They  are  predominately  yellow 
flowered,  but  pink,  mauve  and  white  forms 
also  exist.  Most  have  leaf  rosettes  of  con- 
siderable decorative  value,  a few  are  spec- 
tacular. 

sources  are  a challenge 

So  the  great  Verbascum  experiment 
began.  Finding  sources  of  seed  presented 
the  greatest  challenge  because  most  seed 
catalogs  do  not  carry  it.  Thompson  and 
Morgan  lists  a handful,  but  the  best  sources 
of  even  the  little  known,  rarer  varieties 


turned  out  to  be  plant  society  seed  offerings. 
Our  seeds  came  from  the  Royal  Horticul- 
tural Society,  American  Rock  Garden 
Society  and  The  Hardy  Plant  Society  list- 
ings. Each  of  these  societies  has  a remark- 
able and  extensive  seed  exchange.  I can’t 
think  of  better  sources  to  broaden  one’s 
horticultural  horizons,  to  find  new  and 
unusual  varieties  to  try  in  your  garden. 

six  Verbascum  winners 

Of  the  12  Verbascum  varieties  we 
selected,  all  were  interesting,  but  six  turned 
out  to  be  real  winners,  not  all  of  them  giants 
either.  V.  nigrum  is  a 24-inch  charmer  that 


A close  look  at  ‘Silver  Lining’  in  August:  pure 
yellow  flower  clusters  and  a wooly  white 
“felt”  spike. 


bursts  into  bloom  in  July.  The  tidy  flower 
spikes  rise  out  of  a rich  green  rosette  of 
leaves  and  bear  tightly  clustered  yellow 
flowers  accented  with  reddish  brown  cen- 
ters. It  seems  to  self-seed  readily,  but  we 
don’t  have  enough  experience  yet  to  see  if  it 
comes  true  or  hybridizes  with  the  other 
varieties  in  our  Verbascum  compound.  Our 
plants  bloomed  the  first  year  from  seed, 
made  it  through  the  winter  to  rebloom.  At 
this  point  it  is  behaving  like  a perennial.  V. 
nigrum  has  earned  a spot  in  our  sunny 
border. 

While  many  Verbascum  boldly  call  at- 
tention to  themselves,  V.  chaixii  ‘Album’  is 
a subtle,  refined  plant  that  blends  well  in  a 
garden  composition.  It  has  a neat,  well- 
proportioned  appearance.  The  lower  leaves 
are  stalked,  the  upper  ones  are  stalkless 
cleverly  providing  visual  balance  for  the 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


s>rv*\c, 


. * VV 


\ ti  -fix 

! yp 

til 

Background:  Candelabras  of  V.  olympicum  and  7 ft.  V.  x hybridum.  Midground:  Anthemis  tinctoria  ‘Kelwayi.  Foreground:  Coreopsis  grandiflora  ‘Baby  Sun.' 


rising  flower  spears.  Our  July  blooming 
plants  reached  a height  of  2 feet  and  bore 
soft  white  flowers  with  mauve  eyes.  A 
smaller  perennial  Verbascum  for  sunny 
areas,  it  probably  shouldn’t  be  asked  to 
compete  with  bright,  brassy-flowered 
plants.  We  plan  to  use  it  as  a spiky  accent 
with  the  softer  garden  tints  of  pink, 
lavender,  and  blue  flowers. 

The  smallest  plant  to  reach  the  trial 
finals  was  V.  wiedemannianum,  an  attrac- 
tive 1 8 incher.  Its  thin  stalk  topped  with  a 
cluster  of  delicate  purplish  lilac  flowers, 
emerges  above  a tight  basal  rosette  of 
glossy  green  leaves.  I think  this  biennial 
species  would  show  off  best  against  a 
sunny  rock  wall  or  planted  in  groups  for 
mass  effect. 

A twosome  that  you  can  look  up  to, 
literally,  are  the  golden  garden  skyscrapers, 


Verbascum  olympicum  and  V.  x hybridum. 
Both  have  great  rosettes  of  grayish  leaves 
their  first  year.  The  second  season  the 
spikes  thrust  skyward  to  7 feet  crowned 
with  branching  candelabra-like  inflo- 
rescences. No  identity  crisis  here.  These 
bold  biennials  make  a statement  in  the 
garden  that  few  plants  can  match.  Clearly 
they  are  best  used  as  accents  for  the  back  of 
the  border,  anchors  in  island  beds,  or  to 
highlight  a corner  situation. 

They  are  long-blooming  plants  spanning 
most  of  July  and  August  and  when  cut  back 
they  rebloom  on  shorter  spikes  extending 
the  color  into  September. 

If  we  were  to  grow  only  one  species,  it 
would  be  V.  olympicum.  A foot  or  so 
shorter,  it  doesn’t  depend  as  much  on 
staking  to  protect  against  thunderstorms, 
and  the  flowers  are  a richer  yellow. 


And  finally,  a biennial  beauty  deserving 
a place  in  any  sunny  garden  is  V.  bomby- 
ciferum.  There  are  several  cultivars  we 
grow:  ‘Arctic  Summer,’  ‘Silver  Spires,’  and 
‘Silver  Lining.’  The  strikingly  handsome 
foliage  is  borne  in  a 2-foot-wide  basal 
rosette.  It  looks  and  feels  like  silvery-white 
felt,  dramatic  during  the  day,  positively 
luminous  in  moonlight.  Christopher  Lloyd, 
in  his  book  Foliage  Plants,  * says  you  can 
keep  the  plant  in  its  stunning  first-year 
juvenile  stage  by  pinching  out  the  flowering 
shoots  when  they  appear.  If  you  do  this,  he 
suggests  siting  it  in  the  front  of  the  border 
where  the  woolly  texture  of  the  foliage  can 


* Foliage  Plants,  Christopher  Lloyd.  (Random 
House,  NY  1973,  New  and  Revised  Edition, 
First  American  Edition.)  Available  in  PHS 
Library. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


9 


continued 


photos  by  John  P.  Swan 


s 


10 


Tidy,  well  proportioned  V.  chabcii  ‘Album’  bears  soft  white  flower 
spears  in  July. 


Twenty-four-inch  flower  spikes  of  V.  nigrum  are  at  their  best  in  July. 
Fallen  florets  add  a color  note  on  the  rich  green  leaves. 


be  appreciated.** 

Our  ‘Silver  Lining’  was  allowed  to  bloom 
as  a back-of-the-border  specimen.  The  4- 
foot  flower  spikes,  every  bit  as  beautiful  as 
the  silvery  leaves,  were  clothed  in  the 
softest  white  woolly  hairs.  The  clusters  of 
yellow  flowers  advancing  up  the  white 
spires  created  an  elegant  effect.  Here’s  a 
plant  that  could  make  converts  out  of 
gardeners  that  resist  growing  biennials. 

easy  to  grow,  trouble  free 

Verbascum  seem  to  have  no  pest  or 
disease  problems  and  is  easy  to  grow.  The 
seed  is  fine,  so  take  care  to  achieve  good 
germination.  Its  best  to  start  them  in  early 


**  Another  idea.  Use  the  first-year  rosette  of  V. 
bombyciferum  as  a patio  pot  plant.  You  could 
even  use  the  wild  mullein  this  way.  Its  young 
rosette  of  silver-gray  leaves  is  a sight  to  behold 
in  the  early  morning  dew. 


spring  under  lights  so  you  can  control 
conditions.  When  the  miniature  rosettes 
are  about  2 inches  wide  they  can  be  set  out 
in  the  garden.  Large  species  should  be 


If  we  were  to  grow  only  one  species,  it 
would  be  V.  olympicum. 


planted  at  least  24  inches  apart  because  of 
the  spreading  rosettes.  Small  varieties  can 
be  closer.  Although  Verbascum  are  reputed 
to  be  able  to  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  we 
found  that  enriching  it  with  compost  and 
aged  mushroom  soil  along  with  a handful 
of  slow-release  fertilizer  gave  better  results. 
The  most  important  requirement  is  good 
drainage.  They  cannot  take  continuously 
wet  feet  particularly  when  wintering  over. 
Verbascum  develop  strong  tap  roots. 


which  probably  provide  them  with  enough 
moisture  and  allows  them  to  hold  up  so 
well  in  summer  drought. 

A final  note  that  should  warm  the  heart 
of  every  good  composting  gardener.  When 
the  time  comes  to  consign  your  Verbascum 
to  the  compost  pile,  they  not  only  provide 
organic  bulk,  but  contribute  sulfur,  mag- 
nesium, potassium  and  iron,  which  they 
have  accumulated  in  their  systems. 

So,  there  you  have  it.  Verbascum  provide 
summer  color,  startling  columnar  forms, 
texture,  drought  resistance  and  even  en- 
riches your  compost.  What  more  can  you 
ask  of  a pet  plant! 

• 

John  Swan  is  a member  of  the  PHS  Council, 
Flower  Show  Committee  and  a Volunteer  Hot- 
liner.  He  is  a member  of  the  Board  of  Bartram’s 
Gardens.  John  and  Ann  Swan’s  West  Chester 
garden  has  been  included  on  PHS  Members’ 
Garden  Tours. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


The  Winning  Ways 
of  the  Young 

(^)  By  Libby  Goldstein 

Eight  years  ago,  Blanche  Epps  told  a gardening  workshop  that  the  worst 
pests  in  her  garden  were  her  grandchildren.  Last  summer  nine  of  those 
pests  won  a first  prize  in  the  City  Gardens  Contest,  the  Harvest  Show 
Junior  Section  bronze  medal  and  28  blue  ribbons  at  the  Delaware  County 
4-H  Fair.  When  I asked  Blanche  how  she  had  turned  her  “pests”  into 
prize-winners,  she  said,  “They  changed  themselves. 


Young  gardeners 
win  blue 
ribbons  in  the 
City  Gardens 
Contest 


I’d  take  them  wherever  I went,  When 
they  saw  kids  winning  and  bouncing  up 
and  down,  they  said,  ‘Hey,  let’s  do  that.’  ” 
Of  course,  there’s  a lot  more  to  it.  Whether  I 
talked  to  the  young  gardeners  themselves 
or  to  the  people  who  work  with  them.  I 
found  that  behind  each  prize-winning 
gardener  there’s  a grownup  (sometimes 
more  than  one)  who  is  a keen  grower.  Just 
as  important,  these  grownups  let  kids  work 
on  their  own,  even  the  little  ones  at  ISI 
Caring  Center. 

ISI  Caring  Center 

Ruth  Chavos  began  the  gardening  pro- 
gram at  this  corporate  day  care  center,  and 
ISI  underwrote  its  development.  Each  class 
has  its  own  garden  box;  although  the 
Toddlers  (all  30  of  them)  and  their  teachers 
share  one  specially  long  box.  According  to 
Kathy  Batchelder,  the  enthusiastic  gardener 
who  took  over  as  City  Gardens  Contest 
contact  after  Chavos  left,  all  122  children 
from  Toddlers  through  Kindergarten  and 
all  16  grownups  are  actively  involved  in 
the  garden,  an  ongoing  part  of  the  Caring 
Center’s  educational  program. 

Kathy  says,  “We  have  a real  hands-on 
policy  of  teaching  the  children,  and  all  of 
the  staff  are  involved.  Each  spring  we  have 
a meeting  to  decide  what  we’re  going  to 
plant  and  how  we’re  going  to  do  it.”  They 
use  the  judges’  comments  in  their  planning 
and  decision  making.  “We  do  a unit  on 
growth  and  a whole  set  of  activities  around 
the  unit,”  from  planting  seeds  in  glass 
containers  to  see  the  roots,  to  songs  and 
dances  about  growing.  “They  relate  their 
own  growth  to  the  plants’.  We  start  our 
seeds  indoors  in  the  spring.  Each  child 
plants  a pot,  waters  it  and  feeds  it.  Then, 
when  the  weather  is  right,  each  one  plants 
his/her  plant  and  a stake  with  his/her  name 
on  it  in  the  garden.” 

Kathy  says,  “They  get  to  see  something 
live,  to  nurture  something  and  watch  it 
grow.  They  get  a sense  of  time:  ‘When’s  it 
going  to  come  up?’  and  patience  and  of 


Barbara  Gilmore  works  with  toddlers  Christine  Hurtubise  and  Nick  Conway  to  water  and  rake  in 
the  herb  garden  at  the  ISI  Caring  Center  garden  at  3501  Filbert  Street. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


continued 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


ISI  Caring  Center 

how  vulnerable  life  is.”  Since  the  children 
are  in  charge  of  the  plants’  care  and  check 
up  on  them  daily,  they  get  a sense  of 
responsibility.  In  1 988,  they  carried  cups  of 
water  from  the  wading  pools  to  the  plants. 
Often  the  kids  would  go  right  to  their  plants 
and  get  the  water  on  their  own  without  any 
prompting. 

Many  of  the  parents  have  gardens  and, 
says  Kathy,  those  kids  “bring  their  garden- 
ing experience  to  school  with  them.”  All  of 
the  parents  know  about  the  garden.  They 
all  have  to  walk  through  it.  Some  of  them 
take  a real  interest.  After  seeing  how  much 
basil  they  had  in  1988,  one  mother  gave 
Kathy  a recipe  for  pesto  to  use  in  an 
international  food  unit.  In  return,  Kathy 
gave  her  some  of  the  basil. 

Teachers  tell  their  classes  about  the  City 
Gardens  Contest  and  about  the  judges  who 


will  be  coming.  When  class  and  judging 
schedules  work  out,  the  kids  join  the  judges 
in  the  garden.  In  1987,  the  whole  Caring 
Center  helped  plant  the  rose  bush  they  had 
won,  and  each  class  got  some  of  the  prize 
money  to  buy  seeds.  When  Ruth  Chavos 
left,  Kathy  was  asked  to  take  over  as  PHS 
contact.  Contest  results  are  announced  to 
each  class,  and  Kathy  posts  their  certifi- 
cate, the  judges’  comments  and  an  ex- 
planation on  the  bulletin  board.  And  then 
too,  there  are  notices  in  the  Center’s  news- 
letter and  daily  log. 

This  garden  is  special.  Most  agency- 
related  gardening  programs  I’ve  known  are 
very  fragile.  There’s  usually  one  enthusi- 
astic gardener  who  brings  that  energy  to 
the  agency  . . . and  takes  it  off  to  the  next 
job.  Gardening  at  ISI  isn’t  affected  by  exits 
and  entrances. 


Tonya  Tate  and  children  from  the  five-year- 
old  group  water  tomatoes  and  canna  in  the 
Center’s  garden. 


Joseph  Cendrowski,  Jr. 

When  I first  called  Joe,  he  was  out 
distributing  campaign  literature  for  his 
State  Representative  . . . not  surprising 
since  this  1 6-year-old  Central  High  School 
student  is  planning  to  study  political  science 
in  college.  When  he  does  go  off  to  college, 
Joe  says  his  parents  will  probably  “take  the 
garden  back.”  Right  now,  Joe  does  the 
vegetables,  and  his  mother  does  the  flowers. 
Joe  started  gardening  three  or  four  years 
ago  as  a Boy  Scout  merit  badge  project.  He 
joined  the  Cub  Scouts  when  he  was  eight. 
Since  then  he  has  earned  more  than  30 
merit  badges. 

The  Cendrowski  garden  is  the  very 
model  of  an  edible  landscape.  Flowers, 
shrubs  and  vegetables  all  grow  among  one 
another  in  a fine  fanfare,  that  isn’t  totally 
premeditated.  Joe  explains,  “My  mother 
has  flowers.  The  rose  bushes  have  been 
there  since  I can  remember  . . . and  the 
azaleas  and  hydrangeas.  They’re  all  there, 
so  you  garden  around  them.” 

Joe’s  favorite  vegetables  are  sorrel 
(Rumex  acetosa),  green  peppers  and  egg- 
plant. His  mother  uses  the  sorrel  in  soup, 
and  the  family  usually  eat  the  peppers  raw 
in  salads;  although  sometimes  they  have 
home-grown  peppers  on  homemade  pizza. 
Every  year  he  tries  one  or  two  new  things. 
In  1 988  it  was  Swiss  chard.  He  also  planted 
tomatoes,  string  beans,  onions,  scallions, 
cucumbers  and  butternut  squash.  Joe’s 
strawberries  “didn’t  take”  so  he  wrote  the 
supplier  and  will  be  getting  a credit.  This 
young  gardener  is  also  an  educated  con- 
sumer. 


The  Cendrowski  gardening  year  starts 
with  the  new  catalogs.  Joe  goes  through 
them  and  orders  whatever  happens  to 
strike  his  fancy.  The  City  Gardens  Contest 
is  not  a factor  in  his  garden  planning.  In 
fact,  he  says  that  his  mother  sends  in  the 
form  before  he  even  sees  it.  Besides  weed- 
ing and  general  clean-up,  Joe  says  that  he 
doesn’t  do  anything  special  to  get  ready  for 
the  contest.  He  maintains  that  the  garden 
pretty  much  takes  care  of  itself.  Maybe 
that’s  because  he  puts  down  a layer  of  peat 
moss  after  the  plants  come  up.  While  it’s 
primarily  for  water  retention,  it  keeps  the 
weeds  down  too.  Joe  just  “lays  it  over  the 
top.” 

In  years  past,  Joe  has  entered  both  the 
Junior  Flower  Show  and  the  Harvest  Show. 
At  the  Harvest  Show,  he  captured  three 
blue  ribbons:  for  a pumpkin,  a butternut 
squash  and  a luffa.  He  still  has  one  of  his 
Junior  Flower  Show  entries,  a sugar  cane 
grown  in  a container.  It  lives  indoors  in  the 
winter,  summers  outside  and  just  keeps  on 
growing.  It’s  now  seven  or  eight  feet  tall. 
“The  only  thing  taller  is  my  mom’s  bird  of 
paradise.”  His  other  exhibits  that  year  were 
annuals:  a pot  of  cotton  and  a tobacco 
plant.  Joe  still  sounds  amazed  when  he 
says,  “The  tobacco  leaves  were  huge.” 

Joe’s  garden  year  generally  ends  with  a 
fall  clean  up.  He  doesn’t  do  much  winter  or 
container  gardening  nor  does  he  keep 
garden  records.  Unlike  many  of  us  non- 
record keepers,  Joe  doesn’t  really  feel 
college,  he  will  have  the  lands  he  wants  to 
start  another  garden. 


Joseph  Cendrowski’s  container-grown 
sugar  cane  spends  its  summers  outdoors 
among  the  tomato  plants  and  bird  of 
paradise.  Originally  an  entry  in  the  Junior 
Flower  Show,  the  seven-foot  sugar  cane 
winters  indoors. 


Pumpkin,  tomato  and  sorrel  share  garden 
space  with  a flowering  patch  of  sage  and  a 
spot  of  basil  beneath  a trellised  rose  bush. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


photos  by  Gina  Burnett 


John  Trainer , III 


The  very  model  of  a modem  gardener, 
John  Trainer  does  keep  records.  He  has  two 
years  worth  on  his  computer.  This  LaSalle 
High  School  sophomore  wants  to  be  a 
computer  engineer,  so  adding  a computer 
to  his  gardening  tools  makes  sense.  Other 
people  should  be  good  record 
keepers  before  trying  to  include  one.  (I  set 
up  a lovely  gardening  data  base  and  never 
used  it  after  entering  the  first  set  of  seed 
and  plant  orders.) 

John  keeps  his  records  and  plans  his 
garden  on  “Garden  Assistant,”  an  IBM- 
compatible  share-ware  program  from 
SizzleWare.*  As  John  described  it  to  me, 
the  program  takes  information  about  your 
garden’s  locale,  dimensions,  sun,  shade  and 
water  run-off  patterns  and  tells  you  which 
plants  should  do  well  in  each  part  of  the 
garden.  It  also  shows  what  should  happen 
and  when  and  lets  you  add  comments 
about  your  own  experiences. 

John  has  been  gardening  for  four  years 
and  has  won  a first  prize  in  the  City 
Gardens  Contest  for  the  past  two  years.  He 
says  that  he  got  started  watching  “The 
Victory  Garden”  with  his  father.  When 
John  was  10  or  1 1,  his  father  decided  to 
take  a year  off,  and  John  took  over.  Now  he 
grows  vegetables  for  his  family  and  his 
neighbors  in  the  backyard  and  flowers  all 
around  the  sides  and  in  front  of  the  house. 
But  this  inventive  young  gardener  seems  as 
interested  in  developing  garden  technology 
as  in  the  plants  themselves. 


John  Trainer  harvesting  in  September 


13 


He  began  using  plastic  mulch  because 
his  father  had.  Putting  plastic  cups  around 
the  base  of  his  plants  to  keep  the  bugs  off 
was  his  idea.  This  year  he  built  a leaky  hose 
irrigation  and  fertilizing  system  for  the 
whole  garden.  He  told  me  that  his  hose 
beats  the  plants  down  whenever  he  waters 
and  that  he  had  to  fertilize  each  plant  with  a 

*“The  Gardener’s  Assistant  is  programmed  by 
Shannon  Software,  P.O.  Box  6126,  Falls  Church, 
Virginia  22046.  You  can  get  it  from  Public 
Brand  Software,  P.O.  Box  51315,  Indianapolis, 
Indiana  4625 1 and  they  have  a free  catalog. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


watering  can  (and  Peters  20-20-20).  So  he 
worked  out  a way  to  go  right  to  the  roots 
without  beating  the  plants  down. 

At  first  John’s  layout  consisted  of  a trash 
can  and  buckets  for  water  (both  rain  and 
city  water)  and  a hose  with  holes  punched 
in  it  that  went  all  around  the  garden.  John 
says  that  it  wasn’t  until  the  middle  of  the 
summer  that  he  realized  that  he  could  get 
water  and  fertilizer  out  of  his  containers 
with  a sump  pump  and  added  one.  The 
finished  system  consists  of  a trash  can  and 
buckets  for  the  water  and  fertilizer,  the 


pump,  a delivery  hose  and  the  “leaky”  hose 
that  waters  and  feeds  all  the  plants  at  once. 

Even  with  “Garden  Assistant”  to  help 
with  his  planning,  John  says  he  doesn’t  yet 
know  what  new  or  different  things  he’s 
going  to  try  in  1 989.  “I  usually  think  of  new 
stuff  when  I start  to  garden.  I didn’t  know 
how  I was  going  to  get  the  fertilizer  out  of 
the  barrel  until  the  middle  of  the  summer 
when  I thought  of  the  pump.”  He  intends  to 
keep  on  gardening,  though,  and  if  you're 
lucky,  you  may  be  one  of  the  judges  who 
gets  to  see  his  newest  invention. 

continued 


14 


Junior  Garden  of  Gethsemane 


Each  of  nine  Junior  Gardeners  of  Gethsemane  has  “adopted”  an  adult  gardener  to  assist  after 
they  complete  work  in  their  own  garden.  Above,  Blanche  Epps  reviews  the  afternoon’s  chores 
with  grandchildren  Tamika  and  Chuck  Epps  in  an  adopted  garden.  Below,  Tamika  and  Chuck 
inspect  the  Junior  Gardeners’  flower  garden,  one  of  several  gardens  in  their  90  x 50  foot  growing 
area.  Last  year  the  Junior  Gardeners  won  a bronze  medal  in  the  Harvest  Show  for  their  “Bounty 
by  the  Wheelbarrow”  entry. 


In  the  seven  years  they’ve  been  garden- 
ing together,  says  grandmother  and  4-H 
leader  Blanche  Epps,  the  nine  Junior 
Gardeners  of  Gesthemane,  Terry  Linn  and 
Elaine  (Lainey)  Fagen,  Audrey,  Erica, 
Kimberly,  Kintasha,  Tamika  and  Tracey 
Epps  and  Richard  Reed  have  only  had  one 
fight.  Over  a watering  can.  It  was  some- 
thing. After  Blanche  broke  it  up,  each  kid 
had  to  use  a paper  cup  for  the  day’s 
watering  chores.  “There  haven’t  been  any 
fights  since.”  Audrey  and  Richard,  nine, 
are  the  youngest  in  the  group.  Erica,  the 
eldest  at  19,  has  a Penn  State  Master 
Gardener’s  certificate  on  her  wall  at  Drexel 
University.  When  she  was  ten,  Erica  at- 
tended every  workshop  with  her  grand- 
mother, earning  the  certificate  and  becom- 
ing one  of  the  youngest  Master  Gardeners 
in  the  country. 

Blanche  says  the  kids  often  help  other 
youngsters  get  started  on  4-H  plant  science 
projects.  When  Blanche  visits  a new  gar- 
dening club,  she  takes  one  or  more  of  the 
kids  with  her.  (She  says  that  they  get  angry 
with  her  if  she  attends  horticultural  activi- 
ties and  doesn’t  take  them  along.)  They 
actually  do  workshops  with  the  new  group, 
explaining  what  they  do  and  how  and 
suggesting,  “You  could  try  doing  it  like 
this.”  Blanche  contends  that  they  motivate 
the  other  kids  to  compete  in  horticultural 
events  and  to  win.  She  adds,  however,  (with 
a hint  of  glee)  that  her  Junior  Gardeners 
suggest  that  if  the  new  groups  want  to  win, 
they’d  best  choose  classes  that  Gesthemane 
isn’t  entering. 

It’s  clear  that  these  kids  love  contests. 
Blanche  says  they  they’re  often  a little  shy 
at  first,  but  in  20  minutes  or  so  she  can’t 
even  find  them.  “They’ve  moved  right  on 
out,”  to  meet  new  people  and  get  new 
ideas.  And  Lainey,  who  is  handicapped 
“loves  to  get  on  the  school  bus  with  her 
ribbons.”  Whether  they  win  or  not,  Blanche 
takes  them  to  McDonald’s  or  Burger  King. 
However,  “When  they  won  the  bronze 
medal,  they  got  to  go  to  Baskin-Robbins.” 
The  kids  bought  a “bug  collecting  box,”  a 
work  book  and  $46  worth  of  fruit  trees 
with  the  $56  they  won  at  the  4-H  Fair. 
They  make  additional  money  by  selling 
worms  from  their  worm  farm.  Since  they 
get  $.05/worm,  they’ve  been  known  to 
upset  the  compost  pile  mining  for  more. 

Each  youngster  has  a favorite  phase  of 
gardening.  Lainey  loves  the  soil,  and 
T racey  loves  flowers  especially  their  colors. 
With  Richard  it’s  fruit  trees.  Two  years  ago, 
Blanche  was  going  to  prune  them  when 
Richard  said,  “Don’t  touch  my  trees, 
Grandma.  Show  me,  and  I’ll  do  it.”  He  did 


and  still  does.  Terry  is  the  maintenance 
engineer.  He  does  the  construction,  lays 
wood  chips  in  the  walkways,  fills  the  water 
drums  and  leaves.  Kintasha  loves  flowers 
and  veggies  but  is  scared  of  bugs.  Audrey  is 


a vegetable  person,  while  Tamika  and 
Kimmy  are  into  herbs  and  vegetables. 
Erica,  who  is  studying  computer  science  at 
Drexel  University  does  all  of  the  record 
keeping. 

Blanche  says  that  the  hum  of  their  year- 
round  gardening  activities  gives  the  kids  a 
sense  of  being  somebody  really  special.  It’s 
a feeling  I got  from  everyone  I talked  with 
in  the  course  of  writing  this  article.  Clearly, 
kids  who  garden  and  people  who  garden 
with  kids  are  growing  a lot  more  than 
plants  and  prize-winning  gardens. 

• 

Libby  Goldstein  is  a frequent  contributor  to 
Green  Scene  and  has  written  for  National 
Gardening  and  Organic  Gardening. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


photos  by  Gina  Burnett 


HOUSE  PLANTS  WORK 


TO  CLEAN 


(^)  By  Amalie  Adler  Ascher 


INDOOR  AIR 


Some  people  maintain  houseplants 
are  healthful  to  have  around,  if  not 
physically,  then  certainly  psycho- 
logically. Scientists  now  have  reached 
much  the  same  conclusions.  Many  plants 
can  help  folks  breathe  easier,  literally  as 
well  as  figuratively.  Among  houseplants, 
spider  plants,  peace  lily,  philodendron  and 
other  common  types  actually  thrive  on 
airborne  chemicals  that  threaten  our  health. 

For  the  last  few  years,  NASA’s  National 
Space  Technology  Laboratories  at  the 
Stennis  Space  Center  in  southern  Missis- 
sippi have  been  researching  ways  to  use 
plants  to  lessen  air  pollution  inside  homes 
and  office  buildings.  And  in  trying  to  clean 
up  the  environment  on  earth,  the  scientists 
hope  to  turn  up  technology  that  could  be 
used  to  purify  the  air  in  space  stations  and 
on  long  journeys  to  other  planets.  Dr.  B.C. 
Wolverton  heads  the  plants-as-indoor-air- 
purifiers  project,  called  “Space  Bio- 
technology in  Housing.”  He  is  a senior 
NASA  reseacher  at  NSPL. 

As  they  prepared  to  launch  the  Skylab 
missions  in  the  early  1970s,  NASA  scien- 
tists at  the  Johnson  Space  Center  in 
Houston,  Texas,  put  sophisticated  instru- 
ments into  the  spacecraft  to  learn  the 
composition  of  the  air  the  astronauts  would 
breathe.  The  results  were  enlightening,  and 
a bit  frightening.  During  the  Skylab  3 
mission,  for  example,  more  than  300  vola- 
tile organic  chemicals  were  found  in  the 
air,  and  among  the  107  that  could  be 
identified  were  acetone,  benzene  and  two 
kinds  of  freon. 

Back  on  earth,  investigators  found  the 
situation  was  just  as  bad  if  not  worse. 
Recent  Environmental  Protection  Agency 
studies  showed  that  hundreds  of  airborne 
chemicals  are  keeping  us  company  inside 
our  homes,  schools,  office  buildings,  hos- 
pitals and  nursing  homes.  Other  agencies 
and  researchers  testing  for  indoor  air  pol- 
lutants are  also  finding  large  numbers  of 
trace  organics  inside  modem  buildings. 

continued 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


Research  shows  many  common  house  plants  help  rid  the  air  of  indoor  contaminants. 


15 


Such  substances  can  lead  to  allergies, 
rashes  and  respiratory  infections,  and  when 
encountered  indoors  create  a case  of  “sick 
building  syndrome,”  as  the  condition  has 
come  to  be  called. 

what  causes  indoor  air  pollution 
and  why  is  it  on  the  rise? 

Among  the  reasons,  Dr.  Wolverton  says, 
are  the  dramatic  changes  in  the  construc- 
tion and  interior  furnishings  industries  over 
the  last  25  years.  While  natural  woods  were 
commonly  used  in  the  past,  the  preferences 
today  are  for  pressed  wood  products  and 
fiberboard,  which  give  off  trace  levels  of 
organic  chemicals  and  toxic  gases  like 
formaldehyde.  (Formaldehyde,  Wolverton 
says,  is  the  toxic  substance  Americans  most 
often  encounter  because  it  is  used  in  so 
many  products,  from  paper  bags  to  wax 
paper,  facial  tissues,  carpets,  adhesives,  Fire 
retardants  and  even  permanent-press  cloth- 
ing, to  say  nothing  of  natural  gas  and 
kerosene  used  for  heating  and  tobacco 
smoke.) 

Add  to  that  the  artificial  fibers  and 
plastics  making  up  contemporary  furniture, 
draperies  and  accessories,  and  the  array  of 
cleaning  agents,  insecticides,  glues  and 
beauty  and  grooming  aids  that  are  part  of 
our  daily  lives,  and  you  wind  up  with  a not 


inconsiderable  collection  of  contaminants. 

Things  might  not  be  so  bad  if  there  were 
some  means  of  relief.  But  in  many  modern 
buildings  you  can’t  even  open  a window. 
Moreover,  to  conserve  energy  in  homes 
and  offices,  Wolverton  says,  doors,  walls 
and  windows  are  being  tightened  up  to 
prevent  the  loss  of  heat  and  air  condition- 


Wolverton  also  has  reason  to  believe 
plants  can  also  eliminate  radon,  a 
radioactive  gas  that  seeps  from  the 
ground  into  buildings  and  causes 
cancer. 


ing.  Drafty  rooms  at  least  allow  noxious 
gases  to  escape. 

When  the  scientists  at  NASA  looked  at 
the  evidence  and  set  research  priorities, 
they  decided  the  predicament  on  the 
ground  was  more  pressing  than  the  explora- 
tion of  the  heavens.  And  for  the  solution, 
they  had  to  look  no  further  than  some  of 
our  most  common  and  easily  grown  house- 
plants. 

Plants  grow  by  the  process  of  photo- 
synthesis, using  light  to  convert  water, 
carbon  dioxide  and  other  elements  into 


food.  Plant  leaves  continuously  exchange 
gases  with  the  atmosphere,  absorbing 
carbon  dioxide  and  giving  off  water  vapors 
and  oxygen.  Through  the  tiny  openings  or 
stomas  in  their  leaves,  plants  can  also 
assimilate  and  destroy  various  harmful 
chemicals  floating  in  the  surrounding  air 
and  in  the  process  use  them  as  food.  In  so 
doing,  they  virtually  perform  the  function 
of  an  air  purification  system.  What’s  more, 
they  seem  to  be  able  to  do  it  practically  on 
their  own.  So  the  very  substances  that  pose 
a danger  to  humans  are  chocolate  candy  to 
plants,  spurring  them  to  become  lush  and 
vigorous;  plants  emerge  as  truly  remark- 
able creations. 

In  experiments,  certain  houseplants  dra- 
matically lowered  the  levels  of  the  air 
pollutants  formaldehyde  and  carbon  mon- 
oxide inside  sealed  chambers.  The  best  air 
cleaner  was  the  common  spider  plant,  but  it 
was  removed  from  the  tests  because  its 
runners  were  too  messy.  Among  the  others 
were  heart-shaped  philodendron  (P. 
domesticum),  lacy  tree  philodendron  (P. 
selloum),  golden  pothos  (Epipremnum 
aureum),  Chinese  evergreen  (Aglaonema 
modestum),  Syngonium,  Peperomia,  banana 
plant  (Nymphoides  aquatica),  and  peace 
lily  or  white  anthurium,  (Spathiphyllum 
clevelandii). 


16 


Philodendron  (above)  and  golden  pothos  (on  filing  cabinets,  right)  are  among  the  house  plants 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


how  many  plants  would  be  needed 
to  clean  up  the  air  in  an  office 
full  of  people? 

“As  many  as  you  can  squeeze  in,” 
appreciable  difference  in  the  air  quality  of 
a 15x20-foot  room.  In  his  own  home,  that 
number  of  plants  in  his  solarium  has  kept 
the  formaldehyde  level  below  the  measur- 
able mark. 

Besides  the  lab  tests,  Wolverton  has 
received  reports  and  evidence  from  physi- 
cians who  say  that  allergy  sufferers  get 
substantial  relief  in  the  company  of  house- 
plants.  Data  also  shows  that  plants  in  or 
near  a bathroom  rid  it  of  mildew  and  mold. 
Wolverton  also  has  reason  to  believe  plants 
can  also  eliminate  radon,  a radioactive  gas 
that  seeps  from  the  ground  into  buildings 
and  causes  cancer.  Tests  being  conducted 
for  him  by  the  U.S.  Department  of  Energy’s 
Oak  Ridge  National  Laboratory  in  Oak 
Ridge,  Texas,  are  expected  to  be  completed 
in  the  near  future. 

While  plants  through  their  leaves  can 
bring  about  a reduction  in  the  levels  of 
some  of  the  trace  organics  such  as  benzene 
and  formaldehyde  contained  in  cigaret 
smoke,  their  stoma  are  just  too  small  to 
take  out  the  smoke  and  dust  particles  they 
contain.  For  that  task,  the  plant’s  roots  and 
soil  bacteria  must  be  called  into  play.  So 


Wolverton  developed  a device  to  do  it.  The 
apparatus  is  made  up  of  a charcoal  filter 
system  connected  to  a watertight,  motor- 
ized fan  enclosed  in  a sort  of  squirrel  cage. 
It  is  attached  below  the  pot  holding  a plant 
in  such  a way  that  the  mechanics  can’t  be 
seen.  When  plugged  into  an  ordinary  elec- 
trical outlet,  the  fan  pulls  the  smoke  and 
toxic  chemicals  out  of  the  air  and  sends 
them  through  the  carbon  for  filtering  to  the 
roots.  In  a symbiotic  relationship  with 
bacteria  that  break  down  the  harmful 
chemicals,  the  roots,  Wolverton  said, 
“literally  eat  the  chemicals  as  a source  of 
food.” 

With  this  machine,  he  adds,  one  plant 
can  do  the  work  of  15  or  20  plants  whose 
leaves  alone  are  purifying  the  air.  Also,  he 
notes,  as  plants  absorb  noxious  fumes,  they 
are  at  the  same  time  taking  in  carbon 


INDOOR  AIR  PURIFICATION  SYSTEM 
COMBINING  HOUSEPLANTS  AND  ACTIVATED  CARBON 


dioxide  that  people  breathe  out,  and  in  the 
process  freshen  a stuffy  room. 

Recently,  NASA  signed  a jointly  funded 
two-year  agreement  with  the  Associated 
Landscape  Contractors  of  America  to  test 
the  ability  of  other  foliage  plants  to  rid 
indoor  air  of  formaldehyde,  benzene  and 
trichloroethylene,  a chemical  used  in  dry 
cleaning.  The  new  plants  to  be  studied 
include  bamboo  palm,  gerbera  daisy, 
Chrysanthemum  x morifolium,  a pot  mum, 
and  several  varieties  of  dracaena. 

Two  firms  at  present,  so  far  as  Wolverton 
knows,  are  making  and  marketing  indoor 
air  purification  systems  based  on  his  model. 
Because  Wolverton  is  not  actually  engaged 
in  manufacturing  them,  nor  has  he  seen 
them  in  operation,  he  cannot  endorse  them. 
The  special  decorator  pots  that  also  include 
the  necessary  filtering  system  are  available 
in  various  sizes  and  may  or  may  not  be 
planted.  For  further  information  or  to 
obtain  brochures,  write  to  Don  Saceman, 
P.O.  Box  20593,  Tampa,  FL  33622-0593, 
or phone(813)  839-8617;or  Jack  Reberof 
Bio-Safe,  Inc.,  1450  IH  35  West,  New 
Braunfels,  TX  78130,  phone  (512)  620- 
1607. 

• 

Amalie  Adler  Ascher  is  a frequent  contributor  to 
Green  Scene. 


that  dramatically  lower  levels  of  the  air  pollutants  formaldehyde  and  carbon  monoxide  indoors. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


GRAND  PRIZE  WINNER  IN  THE 

PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  PHOTO  CONTEST 

“Best  of  Show”  in  the  1988  Competition  on  exhibit  at  PHS  in  November  and  early 
December.  Forty-two  people  entered  160  photographs. 

Barry  Doohan  of  New  Castle,  Delaware,  took  “Best  of  Show”  for  “The  Brandywine  in 
Autumn,”  entered  in  the  class  “Featuring  Water.”  He  also  took  a blue  for  another 
entry  in  Plant  Portraits,  “A  Viney  Plant  at  Hawk  Mountain.”  Doohan  is  manager  of 
Financial  Systems  for  Blue  Cross/Blue  Shield  in  Wilmington,  Delaware.  He  first 
started  photographing  on  trips  to  Ireland  in  1982  and  1984.  This  photo  was  shot  early 
in  the  morning  with  a Canon  AE1, 28  mm  wide  angle  lens. 


a 


1988  PHOTO  CONTEST  BLUE  RIBBON  WINNERS 


COLOR 

People  & Plants Todd  Philippi,  Philadelphia,  PA 

Plant  Portraits Barry  Doohan,  New  Castle,  DE 

Featuring  Water Barry  Doohan,  New  Castle,  DE 

Garden  of  Eating Mario  DiPuppio,  Philadelphia,  PA 

Accessories  Permitted George  Heimbach,  Allentown,  PA 

BLACK  & WHITE 

People  & Plants Mary  Lou  Wolfe,  Conshohocken,  PA 

Plant  Portraits Carole  Coyle,  Media,  PA 

Accessories  Permitted Aaron  Greenberg,  Philadelphia,  PA 


(^)  By  Natalie  Kempner 


©r 


lytore  than  a chance  for  young  people  to  win  ribbons,  the  Junior 
Flower  Show  teaches  children  in  a subtle  way  about  the  link 
between  plants  and  our  very  survival 


20 


Because  no  Junior  Show  archive  exists, 
the  story  of  the  show  must,  then,  be  a 
personal  account,  pieced  together  with 
assorted  recollections  from  the  1 4 Shows  I 
worked  on,  conversations  and  available 
clippings. 

Maybe  it  was  when  I first  heard  Joni 
Mitchell  singing  that  they’d  paved  paradise 
to  make  a parking  lot.  I’m  not  sure.  But 
sometime,  about  20  years  ago,  schooled  as 
a history  teacher,  teaching  in  elementary 
classrooms,  I became  convinced  that  the 
most  valuable  knowledge  I could  impart  to 
students  passing  my  way  is  the  plain  fact 
that  our  very  lives  depend  entirely,  now  and 
forever,  on  a continuing  healthy  relation- 
ship between  green  plants  and  the  sun. 

I had  learned  about  photosynthesis  in 
school.  I had  helped  my  own  children 
diagram  the  process  for  homework.  But  I 
had  not  really  acknowledged  it.  It  had  not 
startled  me  as  the  astonishing  miracle  it  is. 

“Hooked”  on  ecology,  an  old  but  newly 
fashionable  word  in  those  days,  I spent  a 
graduate  summer  studying  Environmental 
Education  with  Anne  LaBastille*  at 
Cornell  University  and  worked  as  an  intern 
in  Outdoor  Education,  preparing  to  carry 
my  new  found  insights  into  classrooms. 

In  the  1960s,  teaching  had  become  a 
frustrating  struggle  to  sell  the  “basics.” 
Kids  nurtured  on  TV  failed  to  see  the  point 
of  books  and  globes  and  times  tables.  By 
the  time  I moved  to  Philadelphia  and  found 
myself  in  a city  classroom  with  37  fifth 
graders,  only  four  of  whom  could  read,  I 
had  become  resigned  to  the  possibility  of  a 
student  finishing  high  school  unable  to 
read  or  write.  But  it  was  in  that  Philadel- 
phia classroom  that  I discovered  the 
probability  that  city  kids  are  growing  up 
totally  alienated  from  the  sources  of  life  — 

*See  Green  Scene,  “In  Celebration  of  Water”  by 
Anne  LaBastille,  July  1988 


a dangerous  new  kind  of  illiteracy. 

My  innovative  principal,  in  those  inno- 
vative years  for  education,  freed  me  from 
the  classroom  to  devise  ways  for  the  stu- 
dents in  that  school,  whose  test  scores  were 
the  lowest  in  Philadelphia,  to  improve  their 
“basics”  through  environmental  explora- 
tion. 

Just  then,  in  1974  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society  offered  Indoor  Gar- 
dening in  the  Classroom  to  Philadelphia 
Public  School  teachers.  I,  along  with  299 
other  teachers  from  1 25  schools,  flocked 
to  the  after-school  workshop  sites.  PHS 
staff  teachers,  Rick  Fredette,  Carol  Sclafani 
and  Blaine  Bonham,  today’s  director  of 
Philadelphia  Green,  demonstrated  the  les- 
sons outlined  in  the  green,  looseleaf  cur- 
riculum guide  provided  for  the  course. 

Three  hundred  classrooms  soon  over- 
flowed with  egg  carton  seedlings,  sprouting 
avocados  and  garbage  gardens.  Sweet 
potato  vines  climbed  our  walls  and  narcissi 
bloomed  in  winter  on  our  sills.  I signed  for 
the  course  again  in  1975. 

the  seed  of  the  show 

So,  there  we  were,  our  students  proud  of 
their  spaces  crowded  with  horticultural 
wonders,  when  Evelyn  Hett,  PHS  Staff 
Exhibits  coordinator,  announced  The  Chil- 
drens’ Flower  Show  for  November  1 975 , a 
benefit  to  be  sponsored  by  PHS  for  the 
1 00th  birthday  of  St.  Christopher’s  Hospital 
for  Children. 

The  show  was  to  be  a three-day  exhibit 
at  The  Galleria  at  Centre  Square  at  15th 
and  Market  Streets  in  Philadelphia.  Hett 
recalls  the  panic  around  PHS  when,  just 
two  weeks  before  the  show,  only  45  entries 
had  been  received  to  fill  the  5000  square 
feet  of  exhibit  space. 

The  swell  of  interest  — to  450  entries  by 
show-time  — is  explained  in  the  December 
1975  PHS  News  by  Bonham,  PHS  Edu- 


cation coordinator  in  those  pre- Philadel- 
phia Green  days.  “The  major  impetus 
came  from  teachers  participating  in  the 
PHS  teachers’  training  project.” 

I was  of  that  “impetus.”  I remember  our 
excitement  in  preparing  entries  for  the 
show  and  the  physical  complications  of 
delivering  them  to  the  Center  C ity  location. 
I also  remember  the  “field  trip,”  by  El,  with 
36  exuberant  kids  to  a new  turf:  City  Hall, 
dazzling  Christmas  decorations  at  the  new 
Galleria  and  then,  displayed  around  an 
apple-laden  tree  centerpiece,  their  own 
exhibits,  each  adorned  with  a satin  ribbon 
— blue,  red,  yellow,  white  or  green. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


Children  and  grownups  enjoy  the  Junior  Flower  Show  sponsored  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  at  the  First  Bank  at  3rd  & Chestnut  Street 


Most  memorable,  however,  was  the  pride 
when  photos  and  a story  appeared  in  the 
local  newspaper,  El  Hispano,  declaring 
“Una  exhibition  muy  singular  titulado 
‘Jardines  de  Asfalto’  (Gardens  of  Asphalt)” 
— an  exhibit  that  demonstrates  what  city 
kids  have  done  to  “embellecer”  (splendid 
word  for  beautify!)  their  neighborhood. 
One  photo  shows  David  Colon  holding  his 
blue  ribbon  spider  plant  in  the  hanging 
planter  he  designed  from  a vacant  lot 
hubcap.  Special  attention  was  given  “una 
planta  de  Bambu”  which,  the  article 
explains,  was  planted  in  Puerto  Rico  and 
brought  to  Philadelphia  by  Maggie 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


Hernandez.  Maggie  is  a mother  now, 
whose  five-year-old  daughter  will  be 
exhibiting  in  the  1989  show. 

a continuing  project 

“PHS  staff  sat  up  and  took  notice,” 
concludes  the  PHS  News  account.  “The 
enthusiasm  and  excitement  of  the  teachers 
was  unanticipated  and  heartening.  They’ve 
asked  that  the  project  be  done  on  an  annual 
basis.  Their  request  is  being  considered  by 
PHS.” 

The  request  was  approved  and  the  next 
year  the  Junior  Flower  Show  was  staged  in 
the  East  Court  of  the  Federal  Reserve 


Bank  at  6th  and  Arch. 

That  year  I worked  with  two  groups  of 
students,  one  from  a public  and  one  from  a 
parochial  school,  joined  through  a School 
District-funded  program  called  Building 
Bridges.  We  journeyed  by  El  to  the  Italian 
Market  to  choose  suitably  shaped  produce 
for  creating  wobbly,  fragile  beasts  called 
Food  Friends.  With  careful  ‘parenting,’  we 
transported  them  to  the  awesome  space 
beneath  the  ever-moving  Calder  mobile  in 
the  East  Court. 

The  Bridge  Builders  also  worked  that 
fall  on  an  exhibit  described  in  The  Sunday 
Bulletin,  November  14,  1976:  “It’s  called 

continued 


21 


J 


photo  by  Edmund  B.  Gilchrist 


The  Junior  Flower  Show 


‘A  Plea  for  Trees  in  the  Park’ ...  It  shows  a 
map  of  five-acre  Norris  Square,  in  Ken- 
sington, with  pictures  of  the  square  as  it 
looked  40  years  ago  and  as  it  is  now  . . . 
species  of  trees  in  the  park  are  identified 
with  notes  on  their  present  condition:  sick, 
dying,  dead.  Copies  of  letters  sent  to  the 
Department  of  Recreation  asking  for  res- 
cue of  the  trees  are  on  display.” 

That  same  Sunday  Bulletin  hails  “this 
bright  young  show.” 


The  one  I recall  with  most  affection  is 
an  elegant  blue-ribbon  arrangement 
in  a worn,  black  leather,  hightop  shoe 
with  barely  visible  marijuana  papers 
tucked  into  its  sole. 


In  1978,  another  change  in  setting  — so 
far  a permanent  one  — prompted  this  PHS 
News  report:  “In  new  surroundings,  the 
Junior  Show  took  on  an  elan  that  has  been 
missing.  The  Show,  now  at  the  First  Bank 
at  3rd  and  Chestnut  . . . soared  with 
inspiration.  Short  on  absolute  perfection 
and  long  on  imagination  might  be  an 
overall  rating.” 

From  the  early,  spontaneous  years  under 
the  nurturing  of  Evelyn  Hett,  the  Junior 
Show  has  evolved  into  an  organized  enter- 
prise reaching  out  to  the  whole  Delaware 
Valley.  The  middle  years  were  marked  by 
the  boundless  creative  energy  of  PHS’s 
C arol  Sclafani  and  her  volunteer  committee 
chaired  by  two  seasoned  show  experts, 
Helene  Duncan  and  Mary  Lou  Scanlon. 

Each  year  a theme  was  chosen  — circus, 
magic,  zoo  — and  a carefully  designed 
program  book,  illustrated  with  drawings 
from  an  area- wide  poster  contest,  explained 
the  guidelines.  Artistic  Classes,  in  keeping 
with  the  theme,  and  Horticultural  Classes, 
were  divided  into  five  groups:  up  through 
2nd  grade,  3rd  to  6th,  7th  to  9th,  10th  to 
12th  and  ungraded  classes. 

Judging  procedures  were  established. 
For  participants,  judging  is  a mystery  that 
occurs  between  leaving  your  exhibits  one 
day  and  visiting  them  a day  or  two  later.  In 
fact,  a dozen  panels  of  experienced,  quali- 
fied judges,  with  a team  of  clerks,  spend  a 
morning  examining  and  evaluating  every 
scarecrow,  terrarium  and  hanging  plant, 
then  writing  comments  on  each. 

Judging  the  Junior  Show  makes  special 
demands.  Judges  must  compare  the  work 


of  children  growing  up  in  gardening  fami- 
lies with  that  of  children  with  a new-found 
enthusiasm  based  on  sprouting  a bean  in  a 
plastic  cup.  They  must  tread  a fine  line 
between  acknowledging  excellence  and 
encouraging  budding  creativity. 

more  than  showing: 
learning  on  a deeper  level 

About  the  time  the  Junior  Show  found  its 
current  place  in  PHS  as  part  of  the  ever- 
expanding  Philadelphia  Green,  I became 
chairperson.  I discovered  then  that  PHS 
was  considering  ending  the  show  unless  it 
could  change  directions  to  become  a means 
for  integrating  horticulture  into  classrooms 
in  an  interdisciplinary  way. 

Having  never  thought  that  it  was  any- 
thing but  just  that,  I was  astonished  to  read 
reports  that  perceived  the  show  as  an 
“apprenticeship”  for  the  Harvest  and 
Spring  shows,  a way  for  young  gardeners 
“to  become  familiar  with  the  fine  art  of 
showing.”  That  was  not  at  all  what  I had  in 
mind  in  my  Kensington  classroom.  I,  and  I 
suspect  lots  of  other  gardening  teachers, 
knew  little  of  “the  fine  art  of  showing.” 
The  basics  of  seed  to  flower  to  fruit  was 
what  the  excitement  was  about.  Showing 
is,  we  found  out,  an  art,  and  learning  about 
its  was  one  more  rewarding  byproduct  of 
our  horticultural  endeavors  over  the  years. 

The  show  as  a learning  tool?  Interdisci- 
plinary? Absolutely!  At  least  in  elementary 
classrooms.  Let  me  explain. 

When  the  schedule  arrived,  my  students 
and  I read  its  10-12  pages  together,  dis- 
cussing the  theme  for  the  year,  the  rules, 
the  classes,  the  new  words  (there  is  a 
glossary)  and  the  new  ideas  such  as  “Table 
Arrangement”:  a novel  notion  to  a child 
whose  meals  are  not  a sociable,  sitting 
down  together  occasion.  We  brainstormed 
options:  What  can  be  grown  in  the  allotted 
time  in  our  particular  conditions?  Decision- 
making, planning  and  accurately  filling 
out  the  forms  were  all  part  of  the  learning. 

One  fall  the  kids  focused  on  edible  wild 
plants.  They  stalked  the  city  lots,  collecting, 
identifying,  measuring,  classifying.  They 
drew  pictures,  mounted  specimens  and 
researched  the  myths  and  sources  of  their 
specimens.  They  wrote  essays  and  reported 
orally.  They  cooked,  tasted  and  displayed. 
Their  exhibit,  “Where  the  Wild  Things  Are 
in  the  City,”  was  an  impressive  educational 
experience  for  those  who  created  it  and 
those  who  came  to  see  it. 


Children’s  imaginative  plant  portraits  are 
created  from  leaves,  seeds  and  other  natural 
materials. 


A blue  ribbon  for  a table  setting  for  Mary 
Mapes  Dodge,  author  of  Hans  Blinker  or  The 
Silver  Skates. 


I believe  the  show  needs  not  so  much 
new  directions  as  a new  look  at  its  roots  in 
the  Indoor  Gardening  in  the  Classroom 
days  when  it  was  clear  that  the  “showing” 
was  the  grand  finale  to  the  growing,  not  an 
end  in  itself. 

Patricia  Schrieber,  Program  Planning 
manager  of  Philadelphia  Green,  also  sees 
the  show  as  “an  event  — an  event  related  to 
young  people.  So  often  young  people,”  say 
Schrieber,  “get  bad  press  for  behavior,  and 
the  show  is  a way  for  them  to  get  recogni- 
tion for  some  of  the  great  things  they  do.” 
The  task,  then,  is  to  find  ways  to  facilitate 
“the  great  things  they  do.” 

Changing  the  time  of  the  show  from  fall 
to  spring  — in  1 987  — was  an  obvious  first 
step.  With  three  productive  seasons  rather 
than  one,  a May  show  can  indeed  be  the 
culminating  celebration  of  a year  of 
growing. 

interdisciplinary 

Next,  themes  to  link  horticulture  with 
the  overall  curriculum  were  explored.  “The 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


’W 

m w.fri  i \ 

1 \ - ■'< 

/ 

Wonderful  scarecrows  created  by  the  children  often  bear  a suspicious  resemblance  to  family  members. 


World  Is  Our  Garden”  pushed  social 
studies,  history  and  geography.  In  last 
year’s  “Storybook  Gardens,”  a notable 
Table  Arrangement  for  “dinner  with  your 
favorite  author”  was  a flower-filled,  silver- 
painted  ice  skate  for  a table  set  for  Mary 
Mapes  Dodge,  author  of  Hans  Brinker:  or, 
The  Silver  Skates. 

Workshops  for  the  artistic  classes  and 
pilot  programs  for  teachers  wanting  to  “dig 
in”  for  extended  growing  projects  are 
being  offered  in  schools  and  at  PHS,  a 
variation  of  the  early  Indoor  Gardening 
classes. 

This  year,  the  often  ingenious  but  some- 
times disastrous  Food  Friends  class  has 
been  eliminated.  The  Friends  tended  to  rot, 
but  discarding  them  before  the  show’s  end 
caused  grief  to  their  creators. 

Ten  Artistic  Classes  remain,  including 
the  popular  fresh  and/or  dried  plant 
material  in  a shoe.  Among  all  the  ballet 
slippers,  sneakers,  clogs,  boots  and  baby 
shoes,  the  one  I recall  with  most  affection  is 
an  elegant  blue-ribbon  arrangement  in  a 
worn,  black  leather,  hightop  shoe  with 
barely  visible  marijuana  papers  tucked 
into  its  sole.  The  address  on  the  entry  form 
revealed  a drug-burdened  neighborhood. 

Scarecrows  are  another  perennial  favor- 
ite. Denise  Flores,  Junior  Flower  Show 


assistant  manager,  tells  of  the  reluctant 
participant  from  a school  for  “behavior 
problems”  who  entered  a cornstalk  scare- 
crow. He  came  to  view  the  show  and, 
totally  “blown  away”  by  his  elaborate  satin 
rosette  “Best  of  Show”  award,  he  took  his 
ribbon  and  ran. 

The  1 4 Horticultural  Classes,  open  to  all 
age  divisions,  include  “Green  ‘n’  Growin’  ” 
for  “an  established  plant  propagated  by 
exhibitor”  and  “Garbage  Gardening  for 
sprouting  or  rooted  plants  from  the 
kitchen.” 

The  new  Challenge  Classes  came  with 
the  change  to  a spring  show.  Each  partici- 
pating classroom  receives  enough  materials 
— different  for  each  age  group  — to  grow 
several  potential  entries  of  which  one  is 
selected  by  the  class.  Workshops  provide 
teachers  with  training. 

The  challenges  to  growing  plants  in  city 
classrooms  are,  of  course,  both  ubiquitous 
and  unique.  Varying  humidity,  heat  and 
light  plus  too  many  enthusiastic,  unpre- 
dictable caretakers  are  handicaps  that 
combine  to  teach  the  needs  of  plants  and 
all  living  things.  Last  year,  one  classroom 
dropped  out  when  their  Challenge  Class 
Easter  Egg  Radishes  were  devoured  by 
mice.  One  successful  class  reported:  “Our 
plants  were  exposed  to  music.” 


Each  year,  clowns,  magicians,  musicians, 
performers  and  storytellers  provide  lively 
special  attractions.  Participatory  activity  is 
provided  by  on-the-spot  take-home  plant- 
ing. And  this  year,  for  the  third  time,  School 
Board  members,  school  administrators  and 
teachers  will  view  the  accomplishments  of 
their  students  in  a pre-show  reception.  Two 
years  ago,  one  District  superintendent 
moved  enthusiastically  through  all  the  ex- 
hibits taking  notes.  Later,  he  wroter  letters 
of  congratulations  to  every  participant 
from  his  district. 

“There’s  a special  feeling  to  the  Junior 
Show,”  says  Show  manager,  Anne  Vallery. 
“I  like  it!” 

Vallery  gives  her  highest  praise  to  the 
teachers  who  involve  their  students  year 
after  year.  “It’s  lots  of  work.  In  the  class- 
room — keeping  track,  supervising.  Then 
the  intense  few  days  lugging  the  entries, 
bringing  the  kids  to  look,  picking  up, 
sorting  out  after  the  show.” 

The  1989  theme  “It’s  Academic!”  is  an 
unabashed  assertion  that  greening  is  one  of 
the  “basics”  — as  basic  as  reading  and 
writing  if  survival  is  to  be  considered. 

After  1 5 years,  the  Junior  Show  is  still  “a 
bright  young  show”  that  needs  nurturing 
year-in,  year-out  to  make  it  the  valuable 
learning  resource  it  can  be. 


23 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


continued 


An  entralled  audience  hears  gardening  tips  from  Aunt  Daisy. 


24 


A rapt  young  visitor  studies  a student’s  dish  garden  entry. 


Children  planting  begonia  plugs  they’ll  take 
home  from  the  Show. 


1989  JUNIOR  FLOWER  SHOW 
IT’S  ACADEMIC 

TUESDAY,  MAY  16th 
1:00  p.m.  - 5:00  p.m. 
Registration 

WEDNESDAY,  MAY  17th 
10:00  a.m.  - noon 
Judging 

3:00  p.m.  - 5:00  p.m. 
Reception 

THURSDAY,  MAY  18th 
9:00  a.m.  - 5:00  p.m. 

Open  to  public 

FRIDAY,  MAY  19th 
9:00  a.m.  - 5:00  p.m. 

Open  to  public 

SATURDAY,  MAY  20th 
10:00  a.m.  - 2:00  p.m. 

Open  to  public 

2:30  p.m. 

Pick  up  entries 

Place:  First  Bank  of  United  States 
on  Third  Street  between  Chestnut 
and  Walnut  Streets.  For  additional 
information  call  Anne  Vallery 
-625-8280. 

If  you  are  interested  in  participating 
in  the  Junior  Flower  Show  call 
625-8280  for  a schedule. 


• 

PHS  Council  member  Natalie  Kempner  will 
chair  the  1 5 th  Annual  PHS  Junior  Flower  Show. 
She  is  one  of  the  few  people  who  has  been  with 
the  Show  every  year.  Natalie  Kempner  is 
founder  of  the  Norris  Square  Project  in  West 
Kensington,  a project  that  “stemmed  from  the 
concern  that  youngsters  there  could  live  their 
whole  lives  knowing  almost  nothing  about 
green  and  growing  things,  even  though  the 
center  of  their  world  is  the  five-acre  Norris 
Park,”  The  Philadelphia  Inquirer,  December  1 2, 
1988,  Section  E,  p.  1 and  8. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


photo  by  Natalie  Kempner 


photos  by  Derek  Fell 


All-Male  Asparagus,  Chocolate  Peppers  & 
All-Season  Strawberries  Prove  Themselves 

in  the  Home  Garden 


By  Derek  Fell 


Recent 

seed 

introductions 
prove  their 
mettle 


All-male  asparagus  hybrid. 


I first  became  aware  of  all-male  aspar- 
agus hybrids  during  a visit  to  the 
vegetable  trials  at  Pennsylvania  State 
University,  State  College,  three  years  ago. 
Several  varieties  from  Holland  and  several 
others  from  Rutgers  University  (NJ)  were 
up  to  three-times  heavier  yielding  than  old 
varieties  such  as  ‘Mary  Washington.’  The 
plants  in  the  Penn  State  asparagus  trials 
had  all  been  grown  from  eight-week-old 
seedlings  — not  roots  — and  they  made 
strong  growth.  The  health  and  vigor  of 
these  plants  made  me  realize  the  advantage 
of  transplanting  seedlings,  rather  than  roots. 
When  you  transplant  a root  you  run  the  risk 
of  rot  and  may  have  nothing  to  show  for 
your  effort.  Not  so  with  seedlings:  when 
you  transplant  a seedling  it’s  already  green 
and  viable;  its  wispy,  chlorophyl-rich 
fronds  stay  above  the  soil  and  shimmer  in 
the  breeze.  Given  fertile,  loose,  well- 
drained  soil  with  lime  added  in  heavy  soils, 
the  seedlings  are  capable  of  fast  growth 
and  harvests  as  early  as  planting  rootstocks 
of  non-hybrid  varieties. 

T raditionally,  rows  of  asparagus  contain 
succulent  stalks  compared  to  the  spindly 
seed-bearing  females.  Also,  the  females 
are  not  so  desirable  since  they  drop  their 
berries  in  autumn  and  the  seeds  inside 
germinate  around  the  mother  plants,  acting 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


as  weeds. 

For  generations  Amish  farmers  in  Lan- 
caster County  have  been  aware  of  the  value 
of  all-male  asparagus  beds.  They  would 
first  grow  their  asparagus  in  temporary 
nursery  beds  so  they  could  weed  out  the 
females,  leaving  only  males  for  transplant- 
ing into  permanent  rows.  The  extra-thick 
asparagus  spears  produced  by  this  tech- 
nique commanded  highest  prices  in  the 
markets.  Some  California  commercial 
asparagus  growers  also  weeded  out  the 
females,  so  a pair  of  California  research 
scientists  studied  the  genetic  make-up  of 
asparagus  and  worked  out  a way  to  pro- 
duce an  all-male  asparagus  hybrid.  They 
published  their  conclusions  in  HortScience 
magazine  and  expected  the  asparagus 
industry  to  come  forward  with  some  fund- 
ing to  complete  the  project.  When  none 
was  forthcoming,  they  abandoned  work  on 
asparagus  hybrids.  But  in  Holland  breeders 
who  had  read  the  article  decided  to  spec- 
ulate. The  result  was  a series  of  incredibly 
high-yielding  all-male  asparagus  hybrids 
that  performed  remarkably  well  in  North 
America.  One  of  these,  named  ‘Ben 
Franklin,’  has  been  offered  to  home  gar- 
deners by  Gardener’s  Choice  for  the  past 
three  years. 

Professor  Howard  Ellison,  an  asparagus 

continued 


'Sweetheart'  strawberries  bear  fruit  within  120  days. 


25 


All-Male  Asparagus,  Chocolate  Peppers  & All-Season  Strawberries . . . 


breeder  at  Rutgers  University,  encouraged 
by  the  Dutch  success,  set  about  creating  his 
own  hybrids  with  resistance  to  special 
problem  diseases,  particularly  rust.  One 
bright  sunny  morning  in  May,  in  1986, 1 
accompanied  Dr.  Ellison  to  his  test  plots 
near  Vineland  (NJ)  and  saw  acres  of  all- 
male asparagus  varieties  developed  from 
his  breeding  efforts,  including  ‘Jersey 
Giant’  and  ‘Jersey  Centennial,’  both  of 
which  are  available  to  home  gardeners  in 
limited  supply.  For  the  future,  Dr.  Ellison 
hopes  to  introduce  clones  developed  by 
meristem  culture  with  10-times  the  pro- 
duction of  ‘Mary  Washington.’  Though 
these  super-yielding  clones  have  met  with 
resistance  from  commercial  growers  be- 
cause of  cost.  Dr.  Ellison  is  hopeful  that  one 
or  two  may  be  offered  to  home  gardeners 
willing  to  pay  for  such  heavy  yields. 

strawberries 

Though  classified  as  a fruit  more  than  a 
vegetable,  strawberries  are  generally  grown 
in  the  vegetable  garden.  The  first  cultivated 
varieties  of  strawberries  were  called  June- 
Bearing  because  they  bore  bumper  crops 
just  once  a year,  in  June  over  most  areas  of 
North  America.  Later,  plant  breeders 
developed  the  so-called  Everbearing,  a 
misnomer  since  they  do  not  crop  continu- 
ously but  bear  two  crops  a year:  one  in  June, 
the  other  in  September.  Everbearers  have 
never  really  caught  on  with  serious  straw- 
berry growers  because  the  crops  they  bear 
in  spring  and  fall  are  not  very  generous. 

It  was  thought  that  high  heat  and  humid- 
ity caused  strawberries  to  stop  fruiting  in 
summer,  but  in  truth  they  are  photo- 
periodic.  They  quit  bearing  in  summer 
because  of  extended  day  length. 

In  Brighton  Canyon,  near  Salt  Lake  City, 
a wild  strawberry  was  discovered  to  be 
“day  neutral,”  unaffected  by  day  length, 
bearing  continuously  all  summer.  By  cross 
pollinating  these  wild  varieties  with  cul- 
tivated strawberries,  breeders  at  the  Uni- 
versity of  California  developed  new  garden- 
worthy cultivars  with  day-neutral  qualities. 
One  of  these,  ‘Brighton,’  was  considered 
especially  good  for  home  gardeners  because 
of  its  good  fruit  size  and  dessert-quality 
flavor. 

Excited  by  the  success  of ‘Brighton’  and 
its  other  day-neutral  companions,  Dr.  Gene 
Galletta,  strawberry  specialist  at  the 
USDA’s  fruit-breeding  research  facility  at 
Beltsville,  Maryland,  picked  up  on  the 
California  research  and  developed  varieties 
especially  suited  to  the  northeast.  The  best 
of  these,  ‘Tristar,’  is  offered  by  W.  Atlee 


Burpee  Co. 

Dr.  Galletta  believes  that  day-neutrals 
could  revolutionize  strawberry-growing  in 
America  when  enough  people  have  tried 
them.  Not  only  do  they  bear  a bumper  crop 
in  June,  they  bear  in  flushes  during  summer 
and  again  in  fall.  They  take  temperatures 
up  to  95°  F,  as  long  as  they  are  grown  in 
weed-free,  fertile  soil  and  watered. 

Another  incredible  breakthrough  in  the 
world  of  strawberries  is  ‘Sweetheart,’  a day 
neutral  that  will  bear  fruit  within  1 20  days 


Supersteak  VFN. 


starting  from  seed.  Though  ‘Sweetheart’  is 
not  so  large  fruited  as  other  strawberries,  it 
creates  a much  better  groundcover  effect 
than  any  other  strawberry  I’ve  seen. 
‘Sweetheart’  is  so  vigorous  it  sets  an  extra- 
ordinary number  of  runners.  The  plants 
start  running  soon  after  transplanting, 
creating  a dense,  weed-suffocating  knit 
when  used  as  a groundcover.  The  fruits  are 
several  times  bigger  than  alpine  straw- 
berries, and  because  it  is  so  inexpensive  to 
grow  a large  number  of  plants  from  seed, 
large  areas  can  be  planted  economically. 

tomatoes 

After  plant  breeder  Oved  Shifriss  devel- 
oped the  famous  ‘Big  Boy’  hybrid  tomato 
while  working  at  Burpee’s  Fordhook  Farm, 
near  Doylestown  (PA),  Burpee  caused 
another  sensation  by  introducing  ‘Big 
Early’  hybrid  tomato.  ‘Big  Early’  remained 
the  earliest  large-fruited  tomato  until  1986 
when  Burpee  released  ‘Early  Pick’  hybrid 
tomato.  Not  only  is  ‘Early  Pick’  as  large 
and  as  early  as  ‘Big  Early’  (62  days  to 
harvest),  it  is  higher  yielding  and  produces 
fruit  less  prone  to  blemishes  and  diseases. 

If  you  have  room  for  only  two  varieties 
of  tomatoes,  grow  ‘Early  Pick’  and  Burpee’s 
‘Supersteak’  hybrid.  I have  grown  ‘Super- 
steak’ the  size  of  grapefruits.  Moreover, 


they  are  smooth,  meaty  and  delicious.  One 
slice  will  cover  an  entire  piece  of  bread.  In 
appearance  and  yield,  ‘Supersteak’  is  a vast 
improvement  over  Burpee’s  non-hybrid 
‘Delicious,’  which  still  holds  the  world 
record  of  6 Vi  lbs.  Lois  Stringer,  a plant 
breeder  involved  in  the  development  of 
‘Supersteak,’  told  me  that  when  the  world 
record  is  broken  she  expects  ‘Supersteak’ 
to  do  it. 

zucchini  squash 

A problem  with  zucchini  squashes  is 
their  tendency  to  be  male-dominant.  In 
other  words,  they  produce  more  male 
flowers  than  females,  and  the  males  are 
produced  first.  It  seems  to  take  forever  for 
the  fruit-bearing  female  flowers  to  arrive. 
Now,  home  gardeners  have  a choice 
between  an  all-female  yellow  (‘Goldrush’ 
hybrid)  and  an  all-female  green  (‘Rich- 
green’  hybrid).  Both  are  capable  of  bearing 
fruit  within  50  days  of  sowing  seed.  Start 
seeds  indoors,  set  out  healthy  transplants, 
and  you  can  shorten  that  time  to  just  40 
days. 

Neither  Petoseed,  the  wholesale  grower 
(who  developed  ‘Goldrush’),  nor  Burpee 
(who  developed  ‘Richgreen’),  call  these 
zucchinis  all-female  because  the  plants  do 
produce  a small  percentage  of  male 
flowers,  just  sufficient  to  pollinate  the 
females.  I find,  however,  that  for  the  earliest 
yields  it’s  good  to  grow  at  least  four  plants 
and  as  soon  as  a male  blossom  appear 
among  any  of  the  plants,  pick  it  to  distribute 
its  pollen  to  as  many  females  as  possible. 
(This  is  done  by  rubbing  the  powdery 
center  of  the  male  flower  onto  the  shiny 
center  of  the  female.)  Once  plants  are 
established  and  flowering  increases,  bees 
will  pollinate  them.  I have  grown  these 
“all-female”  zucchinis  in  peat  pots  and 
transferred  them  to  the  garden  about  May 
10,  harvesting  my  first  zucchini  squashes 
June  5 after  hand  pollination. 

sweet  corn 

Almost  every  year,  the  seed  industry 
seems  to  introduce  a new  sweet  com 
claimed  to  be  more  tender  and  sweeter 
than  anything  tasted  before.  In  my  experi- 
ence, ‘Honey  & Pearls,’  a new  bicolor,  goes 
about  as  far  as  I would  want  any  sweet  com 
to  go  with  super  sweetness.  A 1988  All- 
America  award  winner,  ‘Honey  & Pearls’  is 
early  maturing  (just  76  days)  and  won  the 
vote  for  best-flavored  sweet  corn  among 
seed  experts  and  garden  writers  invited  to  a 
taste  test  of  home  garden  sweet  corns  at 
Penn  State  University. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


watermelon 

Seedless  watermelons  are  in  the  news 
again  — as  if  they  were  the  latest  breeding 
sensation  among  vegetables,  when  actually 
they  have  been  around  for  20  years.  A new 
cultivar  called  ‘Jack  of  Hearts’  is  being 
promoted  to  home  gardeners,  but  it  has  the 
same  drawback  as  all  the  rest:  it  needs  a 
regular  variety  to  produce  male  flowers  for 
pollination.  Most  home  gardeners  cannot 
afford  that  kind  of  space,  and  unless  bee 
activity  around  them  is  exceedingly  good 
the  chances  of  successful  pollination  are 
remote.  Hand  pollination  of  small  water- 
melon flowers  is  tedious.  If  you  like  a 
watermelon  that’s  relatively  free  of  seeds  I 
recommend  ‘Yellow  Baby’  hybrid.  It’s  the 
earliest  to  ripen  in  the  Delaware  Valley 
because  of  its  good  cold  tolerance.  The 
fruits  are  round  with  a thin  rind,  and  they 
contain  50%  fewer  seeds  than  comparable 
fruits  like  ‘Sugar  Baby.’ 

For  anyone  interested  in  growing  mam- 
moth watermelons  try  ‘Royal  Windsor,’ 
available  from  Twilley  Seeds.  Amish 
farmers  load  the  soil  with  well-rotted 
manure  and  consistently  produce  fruits 
weighing  over  1 00  lbs.,  though  20  to  30  lbs. 
is  more  normal. 

peppers 

In  peppers  it  seems  everyone  wants  the 
giant  kinds  grown  under  glass  and  imported 
from  Holland  for  American  produce  count- 
ers. They  sell  even  in  the  supermarkets  for 
$2.00  and  more  each,  particularly  the  giant 
golden  varieties.  For  years  I’ve  had  good 
success  with  ‘Big  Bertha’  and  ‘Gideon,’ 
ripening  from  green  to  red,  but  I have  never 
seen  anything  to  compare  with  ‘Golden 
Goliath’  ripening  from  green  to  yellow.  It  is 
even  bigger  than  ‘Honeybelle,’  a giant 
yellow  variety  offered  by  Harris  Seeds.  I 
also  like  ‘Sweet  Chocolate,’  producing 
average-size  chocolate-brown  fruits  devel- 
oped by  the  University  of  New  Hampshire. 
They  yield  fruits  under  low  temperatures, 
look  like  they  were  made  of  Hershey 
chocolate,  and  are  sweet  enough  to  eat  like 
an  apple  (though  not  a chocolate  apple). 

No  doubt  by  planting  time,  many  seed 
producers  will  be  making  sensational 
claims  for  more  new  vegetables,  but  it 
takes  time  for  a home  gardener  to  judge  the 
true  value  of  new  varieties.  After  all,  new  is 
not  necessarily  “better.”  I’ve  grown  all  the 
varieties  mentioned  here  in  my  home 
garden  near  New  Hope  (PA).  They  are  the 
kinds  of  vegetables  that  make  gardening  a 
lot  more  fun  than  usual  and  encourage  me 
back  into  the  garden  year  after  year. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


‘Sweet  Chocolate’  peppers,  sweet  enough  to  eat  like  an 
apple. 


‘Golden  Goliath’  ripens  from  green  to  yellow. 


The  author’s  daughter  Vicki  takes  the  measure  of  ‘Royal 
Windsor,’  a 120-pound  watermelon. 

• 

Derek  Fell  is  an  award-winning  garden  writer 
who  has  photographed  and  written  1 4 published 
gardening  books.  He  lives  in  Bucks  County 
where  he  cultivates  a two-acre  garden. 


SOURCES  FOR 
VEGETABLES 

ASPARAGUS 
‘Ben  Franklin’  (plants) 

Gardener’s  Choice  Catalog 
County  Road  687 
Hartford,  MI  49057 
‘Jersey  Centennial’  (plants) 

Stark  Bros.  Catalog 
Louisiana,  MO  63353 

PEPPER 

‘Big  Bertha’  (plants) 

‘Golden  Goliath’  (plants) 

‘Sweet  Chocolate’  (plants) 
Gardener’s  Choice  Catalog 

‘Honeybelle’  (seeds) 

Joseph  Harris  Seed  Catalog 
Moreton  Farm 
Rochester,  NY  14624 

‘Gideon’  (seeds) 

W.  Atlee  Burpee  Co.  Catalog 
200  Park  Avenue 
Warminster,  PA  18974 

STRAWBERRY 

‘Brighton’  (plants) 

Gardener’s  Choice 

‘Tristar’  (seeds) 

Burpee  Catalog 

‘Sweetheart’  (seeds) 

Park  Seed  Catalog 
Greenwood,  SC  29647 

SWEET  CORN 
‘Honey  & Pearls’  (seeds) 

Park  Seed  Catalog 

TOMATO 

‘Early  Pick  VF’  hybrid  (seeds) 
‘Supersteak  VF’  hybrid  (seeds) 
Burpee  Catalog 

WATERMELON 

‘Yellow  Baby’  (seeds) 

Park  Catalog 
‘Royal  Windsor’ 

Twilley  Seeds 
Trevose,  PA  19047 

ZUCCHINI  SQUASH 
‘Richgreen’  (seeds) 

Burpee  Catalog 
‘Goldrush’  (seeds) 

Park  Catalog 


PLANT 
SOCIETIES 
MEETINGS 
IN  1989 

American  Daffodil  Society  field  trip. 


AFRICAN  VIOLET  SOCIETY  OF  PHILADELPHIA 
Plant  Sale 


Annual  Show  & Plant  Sale 

May  6,  1-9:30  pm 
May  7,  12-4:30  pm 
Plymouth  Meeting  Mall 
Plymouth  Meeting,  PA 


“Hometown  Fair” 

Sept.  15-16 
10-9:30  pm 

Plymouth  Meeting  Mall 
Plymouth  Meeting,  PA 


Contact: 

Margaret  Cass 
920  Andorra  Road 
Lafayette  Hill,  PA  19444 
(215)  836-5467 


DELAWARE  VALLEY  DAFFODIL  SOCIETY 


Annual  Flower  Show 

April  22,  1-5  pm 
April  23,  10-5  pm 
Longwood  Gardens 
Kennett  Square,  PA  19348 
Admission  fee  to  Longwood  Gardens 


Plant  Sale  Contact: 

Sept.  30,  9-5  pm  Mrs.  Marvin  Andersen 

535  Woodhaven  Rd.  7 Perth  Drive 

West  Chester,  PA  19382  Wilmington,  DE  19803 


AFRICAN  VIOLET  SOCIETY  OF  SPRINGFIELD 
Annual  Show  & Plant  Sale 

April  29,  12-10  pm 
April  30,  10-6  pm 
Springfield  Mall 
Baltimore  Pike  & 

Sproul  Rd.  (Rt.  320) 

Springfield,  Pa  19064 


Contact: 

Mrs.  Henry  Roth 
105  Carleton  Rd. 
Wallingford,  PA  19086 
or 

Mrs.  Richard  Jones 
909  Louise  Lane 
West  Chester,  PA  19380 


NEW  JERSEY  DAFFODIL 
State  Daffodil  Show 

April  25,  1-6  pm 
All  Saints  Church 
All  Saints  Road 
Princeton,  NJ 


SOCIETY 

Bulb  Auction  & Meeting 

Sept.  24,  3:30  pm 
Frelinghuysen 
Arboretum 
East  Hanover  Ave. 
Morristown,  NJ 


Contact: 

Mrs.  Eugene  Haring 
Rosedale  Lane 
Princeton,  NJ  08540 
or 

Mrs.  Fairman 
88  N.  Stanworth  Dr. 
Princeton,  NJ  08540 


PENNSYLVANIA  BONSAI  SOCIETY 
Exhibit  at  Auction/Picnic 

Philadelphia  Flower  Show  May  (TBA) 

March  5-12 

Philadelphia  Civic  Center 
34th  St.  & Civic  Center  Blvd. 

Show  Admission  $9.00 


Contact: 

James  A.  Gillespie 
3183  Pine  Rd. 
Danielsville,  PA  18038 
(215)  837-6688 


GREATER  PHILADELPHIA  DAHLIA  SOCIETY 
Annual  Show 

Sept.  16,  3-6  pm 
Sept.  17,  12-4  pm 
Fair  Acres  Geriatric  Ctr. 

Route  352 
Lima,  PA 


Contact: 

Wm.  G.  Moser 
717  Hemlock  Rd. 
Media,  PA  19063 
(215)  566-5537 


BRANDYWINE  CONSERVANCY  AND  BRANDYWINE  RIVER  MUSEUM 
Annual  Wildflower,  Native  Plant  & Seed  Sale  Contact: 

May  13-14, 9:30-4:30  p.m.  F.  M.  Mooberry  or 

Brandywine  River  Museum  Mark  Gormel 

Route  1 (215)459-1900 

Chadds  Ford,  PA 


DELAWARE  VALLEY  DAYLILY  SOCIETY 
DVDS  Flower  Show  Plant  Sale 

July  22,  1-5  pm  Sept.  9,  9-12  pm 

The  Court  Tyler  Arboretum 

King  of  Prussia  Mall 
King  of  Prussia,  PA 


Contact: 

Beth  Creveling 
234  Bypass  Rd. 
Perkasie,  PA  18944 


PHILADELPHIA  CACTUS  & 
Exhibit 

Philadelphia  Flower  Show 
March  5-12 

Philadelphia  Civic  Center 
34th  St.  & Civic  Center  Blvd. 
Show  Admission  $9.00 


SUCCULENT  SOCIETY 
Plant  Sale 

Sept.  TBA,  9-5  pm 
Peddlers  Village 
Lahaska,  PA 


Contact: 

Donald  Wolters 
17-9  Valley  Road 
Drexel  Hill,  PA  19026 


DELAWARE  VALLEY  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY 


31st  Annual  Show 

Oct.  14,  1-5  pm 
Oct.  15,  10-5  pm 
Longwood  Gardens, 

Conservatory 
Kennett  Square,  PA  19348 
Admission  fee  to  Longwood  Gardens 


Plant  Sale 

Sept.  20-21,  10-4  pm 
Tyler  Arboretum 
Painter  Rd. 

Lima,  PA  19037 


Contact: 

Mr.  Robert  Long 
953  Palmers  Mill  Road 
Media,  PA  19063 


CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY  OF  SOUTH  JERSEY 


Flower  Show 

Nov.  4,  2-5  p.m. 

Nov.  5,  1-5  p.m. 

Gloucester  County  College 
Tanyard  Rd. 

Sewell,  NJ 


Plant  Sale: 

May  19,  3-8  p.m. 
May  20, 9-5  p.m. 
323  Columbia  Ave. 
Pitman,  NJ  0807 1 
$1.75  for  3 rooted 
cuttings,  send  SASE 


Contact: 

Sale 

Mrs.  E.  Erichson 
323  Columbia  Ave. 
Pitman,  NJ  0807 1 
(609) 5890-2475 

Show 

Lowell  E.  Topham 
84  Erial  Rd. 
Clementon,  NJ  08021 
(609) 435-8762 


BURHOLME  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY 
Annual  Gladiolus  Show  Bulb  Auction 

August  1989  March  1989 

TBA  TBA 


Contact: 

Mrs.  John  McCarthy 
829  Knorr  St. 
Philadelphia,  PA  19111 


THE  AMERICAN  GOURD  SOCIETY  INC. 

Annual  Gourd  Show 

Oct.  7,  12-6  pm 

Oct.  8,  9-5  pm 

Fairgrounds 

Mt.  Gilead,  Ohio 


Contact: 

John  Stevens 
P.O.  Box  274 

Mt.  Gilead,  OH  43338-0274 


DELAWARE  VALLEY  UNIT  HERB  SOCIETY  OF  AMERICA 


Scholarship  Luncheon  for 
Horticultural  Scholarship  at 
Delaware  Valley  College 

Oct.  18,  Noon 
Prallsville  Mill 
Route  29 
Stockton,  NJ 
$12.50 


Annual  Herb  Sale 
& Luncheon 

May  20,  10-4  pm 
Prallsville  Mill 
Route  29 
Stockton,  NJ 


Contact: 

Joan  Schumacher 
8 Windey  Lane 
Doylestown,  PA  18901 


> 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


photo  by  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


HERB  GARDEN  CLUB 
“Celebration  of  Herbs” 

(Lecture,  Plants,  and 
Related  Articles) 

May  13,  10-2  pm 
, Norristown,  PA 


Contact: 

Barbara  Brouse 
2015  Potshop  Rd. 
Norristown,  PA 
(215)539-7371 


HERB  SOCIETY  OF 


AMERICA,  SUSQUEHANNA  UNIT 


Plant  Sale 

May  6,  10-1:30  pm 
The  Bam  at 
Rockford  Plantation 
Lancaster  County  Park 
Lancaster,  PA 


Contact: 

Michele  Miller 
5092  Lyndana  Drive 
Lancaster,  PA  17601 


DELAWARE  VALLEY  IRIS  SOCIETY 
Iris  Show  Plant  Sale 

TBA  July  15,  10-2  pm 

Tyler  Arboretum 
Lima,  PA 


Contact: 

Mrs.  Arthur  F.  Martin 
1 16  Meriden  Drive 
Hockessin,  DE  19707 
302-998-2414 


AMERICAN  PRIMROSE  SOCIETY  - DORETTA  KLABER  CHAPTER 
Garden  Visits  Plant  Sale  Contact: 

April  TBA  June  TBA  Mrs.  John  S.  Kistler 

Bucks  County,  PA  West  Chester,  PA  1421  Ship  Rd. 

West  Chester,  PA  19380 

AMERICAN  RHODODENDRON  SOCIETY  - PHILADELPHIA  CHAPTER 
Truss  Show  Plant  Sale  Contact: 

May  13,  12-4  pm  May  13,  10-4  pm  Betts  Layman 

Tyler  Arboretum  Tyler  Arboretum  212  Almur  Lane 

Painter  Rd.  Painter  Rd.  Wynnewood,  PA  19096 

Lima,  PA  Lima,  PA 


AMERICAN  RHODODENDRON  SOCIETY  - PINE  BARRENS  CHAPTER 


Flower  Show  / 

Monthly  Meeting 

April  18,  7:30  pm 
May  23,  7:30  pm 
Atlantic  County  Library 
Egg  Harbor  Rd. 
Hammonton,  NJ 


Plant  Sale 

May  TBA 


Contact: 

Ray  Rhoads 
746  Upton  Way 
Somerdale,  NJ  08083 


DIAMOND  STATE  IRIS  SOCIETY 

Plant  Sale 


Iris  Show 

May  28,  12-5  pm 
Boscov’s  Dept.  Store 
Dover  Mall 
Dover,  DE 


July  8,  10-12  pm 
Boscov’s  Dept.  Store 
Dover  Mall 
Dover,  DE 


Contact: 

Mrs.  Arthur  Martin 
1 16  Meriden  Drive 
Hockessin,  DE  19707 
302-988-2414 


AMERICAN  RHODODENDRON  SOCIETY 
Flower  Truss  Show  Plant  Sale 

May  13,  1-4  p.m.  May  6,  9-3  p.m. 

Tyler  Arboretum  Jenkins  Arboretum 

515  Painter  Rd.  631  Berwyn-Baptist  Rd. 

Lima,  PA  Devon,  PA 


VALLEY  FORGE  CHAPTER 
Contact: 

Francis  Rangley 
2112  Foulk  Rd. 
Wilmington,  DE  19810 


AMERICAN  IVY  SOCIETY 
Annual  Convention 

June  15-18 
Schenectady  County 
Public  Library 
Schenectady,  NY 

518-399-4367 
Eastern  Regional  Chapter 
Ed  Broadbent 
Longwood  Gardens 
Kennett  Square,  PA  19348 


Eastern  Regional  ChapterContact: 

(Quarterly  Meeting)  Annual  Convention 
April  15 

Longwood  Gardens 
Kennett  Square,  PA 


Ann  B.  Speanburg 

133  Saratoga  Rd.,  Apt.  K-2 

Scotia,  NY  12302 


MIDDLE  ATLANTIC  REGIONAL  LILY  GROUP 
25th  Annual  Show  Bulb  Sale 


June  24,  1:30-5:30  pm 
June  25, 10-5  pm 
Longwood  Gardens 
Kennett  Square,  PA 
Longwood  admission  fee 


Oct.  28,  2-4  pm 
Jenkins  Arboretum 
631  Berwyn-Baptist  Rd. 
Devon,  PA 


Contact: 

Harold  S.  Slemmer 
Box  36 

558  Wawa  Camp  Road 
Lederach,  PA  19450 


MARIGOLD  SOCIETY  OF  AMERICA 

Annual  Meeting  Contact: 

TBA  Jeannette  Lowe 

394  West  Court  St. 
Doylestown,  PA  18901 


CENTER  CITY  ORCHID  SOCIETY 
Lecture  “Vandaceous  Orchids”  Lecture  “Pink  Paphs” 
by  Debbie  Robinson  by  Walt  Off 

April  17,  6:30  pm  Waldor  Orchids 

Thomas  Moser  Cabinetmakers  May  15,6:30  pm 


210  W.  Washington  Square 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106 


Thomas  Moser 
Cabinetmakers 
210  W.  Washington  Sq. 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106 


Contact: 

Margee  P.  Stone 
c/o  Thomas  Moser 
Cabinetmakers 
210  W.  Washington  Sq. 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106 
Phone  Contact: 

Mildred  Lizenbaum 
215-627-1981 


!!■' 


GREATER  PHILADELPHIA  ORCHID  SOCIETY 
Monthly  Meeting  Plant  Sale 

4th  Thursday,  8:30  Sept.  28,  7:30  pm 

Merion  Friends  Activity  Ctr.  Merion  Friends 
613  Montgomery  Ave.  Activity  Center 

Narberth,  PA  613  Montgomery  Ave. 

Narberth,  PA 


Contact: 

Lois  Duffin 
741 1 Boyer  St. 
Philadelphia,  PA  19119 


SOUTH  JERSEY  ORCHID  SOCIETY 

Annual  Plant  Auction 
Covered  Dish  Luncheon 
June  18,  1-4  pm 
Wenonah  Meth.  Church 
Willow  Grove  & 

Clinton  Ave. 

Wenonah,  NJ 


Contact: 

Olga  Karchuta 
19  High  St. 
Woodbury,  NJ  08096 


SOUTHEASTERN  PENNSYLVANIA  ORCHID  SOCIETY,  INC. 

Monthly  Meeting  Contact: 

2nd  Wednesday  Mrs.  George  S.  Robinson,  Jr. 

All  Saints  Episcopal  Church  Wells’  Acres 

Montgomery  Ave.  at  RD  2,  Box  1 29 

Gypsy  Lane  Chester  Springs,  PA  19425 

Narberth,  PA 


AMERICAN  ROCK  GARDEN  SOCIETY  - DELAWARE  VALLEY  CHAPTER 


Annual  Meeting 

June  16-18 
Raddison  Hotel 
Wilmington,  DE 
$85.00 


Garden  Tour 

May  13,  10-4  pm 
Arboretum  of  the 
Barnes  Foundation, 
Wherry  Memorial  Rock 
Garden  and  other 
local  gardens 


Contact: 

Joyce  Fingerut 
2106  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

Fort  Washington,  PA  19034 


DEL-CHESTER  ROSE  SOCIETY 


Annual  Rose  Show 

June  10 

Entries  by  10  am 
Open  to  public  1 pm 
Longwood  Gardens 
Kennett  Square,  PA 


Annual  Auction 

Oct.  23,  8 pm 
Delaware  Valley 
Christian  Church 
Off  Route  352,  across 
from  Penn  State 
Lima  Campus 


Contact: 

Jack  & Pat  Bilson 
127  Gable  Rd. 
Paoli,  PA  19301 


GREATER  HARRISBURG  ROSE  SOCIETY 


Annual  Rose  Show 

June  17,  entries  7-10  am 
Camp  Hill  Shopping  Mall 
Camp  Hill,  PA 


Contact: 

Marguerite  Reynolds 
RD  2,  Box  235 
Duncannon,  PA  17020 


PHILADELPHIA  ROSE  SOCIETY 


Philadelphia  Rose  Show 

June  3,  2-9  pm 
Plymouth  Meeting  Mall 
Plymouth  Meeting,  PA 
Free  — All  exhibitors 
welcome 


Monthly  Meetings 
1 st  Thursday  — 
March  thru  May, 
Oct.  thru  Dec. 

8 pm 

Mary  H.  Wood 
Parkhouse 
120  E.  Fifth  Ave. 
Conshohocken,  PA 


Contact: 

Robert  Ballatine  III, 

President 
505  Simms  St. 

Philadelphia,  PA  19116  29 

Phone  Contact: 

Mrs.  Donald  Pitkin 
215-692-4076 


INTERNATIONAL  WATER  LELY  SOCIETY 
Water  Lily  Symposium 

Aug.  10-13 
Hyatt  Alecante 
Anaheim,  CA 
Fee  $125 


Contact: 

Virginia  Thomas 
P.O.  Box  104 
Buckeystown,  MD  21717 
301-874-5373 


BOWMAN'S  HILL  WILDFLOWER  PRESERVE 


Plant  & Art  Sale 

May  13-14,  10-4  p.m. 
Bowman’s  Hill 
Wildflower  Preserve 
Route  32 

Washington  Crossing,  PA 


Craft  Sale 

Nov.  18,  10-4  p.m. 
Bowman’s  Hill 
Wildflower  Preserve 
Route  32 

Washington  Crossing,  PA 


Contact: 

Janet  Urban 
P.  O.  Box  103 
Washington  Crossing, 
PA  18977 


Green  Scene  publishes  a list  of  area  plant  society  meetings  and  plant  sales 
annually  in  the  March  issue  of  Green  Scene.  DEADLINE:  November  15. 
Please  follow  format  used  here.  Write  to:  Editor,  Green  Scene,  PHS,  325 
Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


photo:  courtesy  of  Langeveld  Bulb  Co. 


30 


Hippeastrum  ‘Best  Seller’ 

AMARYLLIS 

They  Keep  Coming  Back 

(^)  By  Todd  R.  Phillippi 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


Many  of  us  at  one  time  or  another 
have  either  bought  or  received  a 
preplanted  amaryllis  kit,  the  kind 
readily  available  in  most  home  and  garden 
centers.  After  following  the  directions  and 
getting  a nice  set  of  blooms  the  first  season, 
their  performance  seems  to  steadily  deteri- 
orate. Perhaps  it  produces  one  sparse  flower 
stalk  the  following  year,  only  to  wind  up 
tossed  into  the  compost  heap  the  next.  This 
unfortunately  all  too  familiar  scenario  can 
be  avoided,  given  the  dramatic  beauty 
these  plants  bring  to  even  sparsely  sunlit 
homes  (like  mine)  in  the  middle  of  winter. 

The  so-called  amaryllis  familiar  to  most 
of  us  are  actually  not  amaryllis  but  hip- 
peastrum,  a relative  in  the  family  amaryl- 
lidaceae.  In  their  native  habitats,  they  are 
found  both  growing  on  the  floor  of  rain 
forests  and  clinging  to  branches  or  tree 
trunks  the  way  epiphytes  such  as  orchids 
do.  The  large  showy  forms  we  know  today 
were  hybridized  by  the  Dutch  and  are 
available  in  a wide  range  of  colors  and 
color  combinations,  as  well  as  varying 
flower  shapes  and  sizes.  The  plants  have 
been  cultivated  for  centuries  and,  judging 
by  the  quantity  of  amaryllis  etchings  exe- 
cuted by  Pierre-Joseph  Redoute'  for 
Josephine  Bonaparte,  the  Empress  must 
have  had  quite  a collection. 

My  interest  in  amaryllis  began  as  a child 
during  visits  to  my  grandparents’  home  at 
Christmastime.  There  was  always  at  least 
one  of  these  strange  things  in  bloom, 
appearing  almost  unreal  as  its  vibrant 
colors  towered  above  the  slender  stalk  and 
clay  pot.  Years  later  I bought  one  bare  root 
rather  than  potted  and  found  it  readily 
performed  the  same  winter  spectacle  for 
me,  in  spit  of  my  home’s  northern  exposure. 
With  the  exception  of  one  year,  that  bulb 
has  consistently  produced  two  flower  stalks 
with  four  blooms  each  for  the  past  five 
years.  They  key  to  this  success  is  starting 
out  right  and  then  nurturing  the  plant  after 
it  blooms. 

getting  off  to  a good  start 

To  get  an  amaryllis  to  bloom  consis- 
tently, a top-quality  bulb  that  has  been 
properly  prepared  is  a must.  The  quality  is 
determined  by  the  size  and  root  develop- 
ment. The  bulb  should  be  at  least  4”  in 
diameter.  The  preplanted  bulbs  in  the  kits 
are  usually  small  (3”  or  less  in  diameter), 
and  their  size  cannot  be  easily  determined 
since  they’re  usually  completely  covered 
with  the  soil  mix  and/or  a plastic  disc. 
Good  root  development  is  important  to 
minimize  the  amount  of  “stored”  energy 
that  goes  into  making  roots  rather  than 

the  green  scene  I march  1989 


Comparing  bulb  quality.  Upper  left:  top  size 
bulb  with  good  root  formation.  Upper  right: 
average  to  small  bulb  with  decent  roots. 
Lower  middle:  small  bulb  with  poor  root 
development. 


Proper  planting  depth  and  space  around  bulb. 


making  flowers  for  the  following  year.  The 
base  of  the  bulb  should  be  covered  with 
plump,  fleshy  roots,  6”  or  more  in  length. 
To  evaluate  the  roots  and  bulb  size,  purchase 
the  bulbs  bare  root.  Bare  root  amaryllis  can 
either  be  purchased  at  specialty  nurseries 
and  garden  centers  or  through  mail  order 
catalogs  from  Holland. 

Because  I’ve  had  problems  with  stunted 
flower  development  and  dried  out  roots  on 
bulbs  from  garden  centers  (due  to  weeks  in 
warm,  dry  conditions  in  the  shops  where 
they’re  sold),  I buy  all  of  mine  direct  from 
Holland  mail  order.  One  particularly  reli- 
able source  I’ve  found  is  Dutch  Gardens  in 
Liesse,  Holland  (I  order  through  their  local 
office  in  Adelphia,  NJ).*  The  bulbs  they 
supply  are  consistently  large  with  plenty  of 
roots  and  the  few  times  I was  dissatisfied, 
they  readily  replaced  them  the  same  season. 
Buying  direct  from  the  growers  also  keeps 
the  time  to  a minimum  that  the  bulbs  are 
out  of  their  storage  coolers.  By  scrutinizing 
a bulb’s  quality  and  conditioning,  subse- 
quent care  keeps  a plant  in  blooming 
condition,  rather  than  trying  to  both  build 
up  the  bulb  size  and  get  it  to  flower  again. 

planting  it  right 

Plant  your  top-quality  bulb  as  soon  as 
possible  according  to  the  instructions  pro- 
vided. These  directions  emphasize  two  key 
factors:  an  inch  of  space  between  the  bulb 
and  pot  edges,  and  leave  at  least  half  of  the 
bulb  above  soil  level.  The  soil  mix,  not 
ordinarily  addressed  in  the  literature,  is 
important,  too.  Aside  from  potential  prob- 


*Dutch Gardens,  P.O.  Box  200,  Adelphia,  New 
Jersey  07710 


lems  of  bulb  rot  when  the  bulb  is  completely 
covered  by  soil,  the  growing  medium  con- 
tained in  the  preplanted  kits  ordinarily 
holds  a lot  of  moisture,  due  to  the  high 
amount  of  peat  in  the  mix.  As  with  true 
epiphytes,  excessive  moisture  will  cause 
the  roots  to  rot.  The  mix  I prefer  has  one- 
third  coarse  sand  to  promote  drainage.  The 
other  two-thirds  are  equal  parts  of  garden 
loam  and  composted  manure.  The  manure 
provides  plenty  of  nutrients,  preventing  the 
need  for  repotting  for  about  two  years.  (An 
added  advantage  of  this  mix  is  that  it  is 
heavy,  and  the  weight  keeps  the  pot  from 
toppling  under  the  weight  of  the  flowers.) 

care  guide 

The  following  is  an  excerpt  from  a care 
guide  I’ve  written  to  accompany  the  many 
amaryllis  I give  as  business  gifts  each  year: 

Culture 

Keep  the  soil  moist  until  all  flowers  have 
finished  blooming.  When  a stalk  has  com- 
pleted flowering  (your  plant  will  produce 
two  or  three  stalks),  cut  off  at  the  top  of  the 
bulb.  After  all  the  stalks  have  bloomed, 
place  the  plant  in  a sunny  window  and 
begin  to  fertilize  monthly,  (I  use  a table- 
spoon of  bone  meal  or  bulb  booster,  but 
other  fertilizers  will  do).  Your  plant  must 
grow  a number  of  strap-like  leaves  in  order 
to  bloom  again  next  year.  After  May  15, 
sink  the  pot  with  the  plant  in  your  garden  in 
a location  where  it  will  receive  diffused  or 
morning  sunlight.  Continue  to  fertilize  and 
water  (unless  there  is  adequate  rainfall). 
Stop  monthly  fertilizing  mid-August.  By 
the  end  of  September  (and  before  the  first 
frost),  take  the  pot  in,  cut  the  leaves  back  to 
about  2”  above  the  top  of  the  bulb,  and  lay 
the  pot  on  its  side  for  a week.  Then  store  the 
pot  in  a cool  basement  or  garage.  Do  not 
water  for  several  weeks,  then  give  just 
enough  to  prevent  the  soil  from  drying  out. 
After  January  1st  (and  sometimes  as  late  as 
March)  you’ll  see  the  small  green  tip  of  a 
flower  stalk  beginning  to  emerge.  Now  it  is 
time  to  bring  the  amaryllis  back  into  a 
sunny  window.  Water  thoroughly  once, 
then  keep  the  soil  moist,  watering  weekly. 
In  about  eight  weeks,  you  should  once 
again  have  a flowering  plant.  Follow  cul- 
ture of  fertilizing  and  watering  as  before. 
Plants  may  need  repotting  in  about  two 
years. 

• 

Todd  R.  Phillippi,  AIA,  is  an  architect  and 
garden  designer  who  lives  in  Philadelphia.  His 
amaryllis  have  won  numerous  ribbons  in  the 
Philadelphia  Flower  Show  for  the  past  three 
years. 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


HOHHB  HOTLINE 


32 


(^)  By  Kathy  Mills , Assistant  Horticulturist 


Questions  about  house  plants  dominate 
those  asked  our  hotliners  each  winter.  They 
answer  questions  on  everything  from  gar- 
denias to  venus  fly  traps.  Here  are  a few 
general  tips  that  will  help  your  plants  make 
it  through  the  long  winter  months. 

healthy  indoor  plants 

Always  buy  indoor  plants  from  a knowl- 
edgeable and  reputable  dealer  who  keeps  a 
clean  retail  outlet.  A well-tended  plant 
comes  from  a well-tended  shop.  Ask  the 
retailer  about  the  plant’s  growing  require- 
ments. Carefully  inspect  it  at  the  shop  to 
make  sure  there  are  no  signs  of  pests 
and/or  disease,  and  that  the  plant  looks 
healthy.  When  transporting,  keep  the  plant 
as  warm  as  possible;  during  the  winter 
months  a quick  trip  home  is  a must.  A piece 
of  plastic  around  the  plant  to  keep  the  cold 
wind  off  is  a good  idea  but  remove  it  as 
soon  as  you  get  the  plant  home.  Expect 
some  leaf  drop  while  the  plant  adjusts  to 
temperature  fluctuations  and  its  new  grow- 
ing environment. 

Although  there  may  be  no  visible  signs 
of  a health  problem  before  homecoming, 
isolate  the  plant  from  other  plants  for  a 
week  or  two,  just  to  be  sure.  New  plants 
coming  inside  after  a summer  outside  can 
be  washed  off  with  soapy  water  and  rinsed 
to  remove  unwanted  pests.  Set  larger  plant 
in  the  bathtub  and  spray  with  a hand-held 
shower  head. 

Treat  each  house  plant  as  an  individual, 
not  just  a component  of  a larger  massing. 
Knowing  where  your  plant  grows  in  nature 
will  help  you  to  recreate  the  proper  growing 
environment  at  home.  A good  reference 
book  on  house  plants  is  a must.  Each  time 
you  water,  take  a moment  to  inspect  the 


plant.  Look  for  symptoms  of  pests,  disease; 
note  changes  in  the  plant’s  environment 
(e.g.  light  or  temperature).  During  the 
winter  months  the  home’s  heating  system 
will  keep  the  air  warm  and  dry.  It’s  im- 
portant that  you  keep  the  humidity  at  a 
level  favorable  for  your  plants.  Pebble  trays 
are  an  easy  way  to  do  that.  The  best  way  to 
keep  house  plants  healthy  is  to  keep  them 
clean.  Remove  dead  or  diseased  leaves  as 
they  appear.  Wipe  off  leaves  periodically 
with  water.  The  build-up  of  dust  and  leaf 
polishes  will  eventually  clog  the  plants’ 
pores.  Do  not  overwater  your  plants. 
Discard  any  water  that  drains  into  the 
saucer.  Overwatering  is  the  primary  cause 
for  house  plant  disease  and  death. 

unhealthy  indoor  plants 

Even  when  you  take  loving  care  of  your 
plants,  problems  can  arise.  As  soon  as  you 
notice  that  a plant  looks  unhealthy,  isolate 
it  from  your  other  house  plants  so  the 
problem  won’t  spread. 

The  most  important  step  is  to  correctly 
identify  the  plant’s  problem.  Treating  the 
plant  for  insects  is  senseless  if  the  plant  has 
a fungal  disease.  Plant  problems  can  be 
divided  into  three  categories:  environmental 
stresses,  insect  pests,  and  disease.  Each 
category  may  have  similar  symptoms,  yet 
the  cause  and  the  treatment  are  different. 
An  environmental  stress,  too  much  or  too 
little  light,  can  cause  yellowing  leaves.  An 
infestation  of  aphids  or  spider  mites  can 
cause  yellowing  leaves.  A fungal  disease 
can  also  be  identified  by  yellowing  leaves. 


More  Reading  for 
Healthy  Indoor  Plants 

Rodale’s  Encyclopedia  of 
Indoor  Gardening 

ed.  Anne  M.  Halpin 
Rodale  Press 
Emmaus,  PA 
1980 

Ortho ’s  Complete  Guide  to 
Successful  House  Plants 
ed.  Karin  Shakery 
Chevron  Chemical  Co. 

San  Francisco,  CA 
1984 

These  and  many  other  fine  books  on 
house  plants  are  available  at  the  PHS 
Library. 


You  need  to  know  how  the  leaf  is  yellowing 
to  correctly  identify  the  problem.  Use  your 
house  plant  reference  book  or  call  the  PHS 
Hotline  to  be  sure  what  the  problem  is;  then 
tailor  treatment  to  fix  the  problem. 

Save  a plant  in  the  wrong  environment 
by  changing  its  growing  conditions:  raise 
or  lower  the  humidity,  increase  or  decrease 
the  amount  of  fertilizer,  light,  and/or  water. 

watering 

The  water  used  for  plants  should  sit  out 
overnight.  This  gives  the  gases  harmful  to 
plants  time  to  escape  and  ensures  the  water 
is  at  room  temperature  when  it  is  poured 
onto  the  plant.  Cold  water  can  spot  the 
sensitive  leaves  of  some  plants  (African 
violets,  for  example).  If  you  fertilize  when 
you  water  it  is  important  not  to  let  the  salt 
content  of  the  soil  build  up.  White  lines  on 
clay  pots  indicate  this  could  be  happening 
to  your  plant.*  Every  few  waterings  use 
water  only;  make  sure  that  water  runs  from 
the  bottom  of  the  pot  to  leach  out  any 
fertilizer  build-up.  In  severe  cases,  repot  in 
a new  potting  mix  and  fresh  pot. 

Overwatering  causes  many  plant  prob- 
lems. Too  much  can  suffocate  the  plant  by 
keeping  needed  oxygen  from  the  soil.  Root 
disease  and  other  fungi  thrive  in  a wet 
environment.  Avoid  overwatering  by  using 
a good,  porous  potting  soil  mix  and  always 
provide  a drainage  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot. 

pests 

Insects  multiply  rapidly,  so  early  detec- 
tion is  your  best  defense.  When  populations 
are  small,  control  is  much  easier.  A strong 
jet  of  water  or  a dab  of  rubbing  alcohol 
followed  by  a rinse  of  water  can  control 
most  insects  and  mites  in  the  early  stages. 
For  larger  populations  weekly  applications 
of  insecticidal  soap  followed  by  a rinse  may 
be  necessary  to  eliminate  the  problem. 

If  it  is  possible,  cut  out  heavily  infested 
areas.  Monitor  the  plant  carefully  after  any 
treatment  to  make  sure  the  problem  is 
under  control.  Yellowing,  discoloration, 
cupping  leaves,  webs  and  cottony  fluffs  are 
a few  signs  that  you  have  a pest  problem. 

A bad  infestation?  Discard  the  plant. 
Few  insecticides  are  cleared  for  indoor, 
non-greenhouse  use.  To  spray  an  insecti- 
cide or  miticide  not  labeled  for  indoor  use, 
in  a house  closed  tightly  for  winter,  is  a 

* To  get  rid  of  salt  line,  soak  pot  in  a solution  one 
part  bleach  to  10  parts  water;  rub  clean.  Rinse 
thoroughly  before  using  pot  again. 

the  green  scene  / march  1989 


senseless  health  risk.  If  you  must  use  an 
insecticide,  read  the  label  thoroughly  and 
carefully  before  use. 

fungal  disease 

To  control  fungal  diseases  you  need  to 
manipulate  the  environment,  to  make  it 
unfavorable  to  the  fungus  and  favorable  to 
the  plant.  Preventing  a fungal  disease  in- 
cludes proper  sanitation  and  grooming 
practices  and  using  only  pasteurized  potting 
mixes  when  repotting. 

Root  rots  are  often  caused  by  over- 
watering. The  roots,  then  later  the  stems, 
become  mushy.  Reduce  watering,  repot,  or 
in  severe  cases  discard  the  plant. 


Leaf  spots  are  common  on  all  house 
plants.  They  can  be  caused  by  cold  water 
on  the  leaf,  misting  in  full  sun,  or  too  much 
sun  resulting  in  scald  spots.  These  spots 
tend  to  have  diffuse  margins  or  lines  of 
demarcation  between  the  spot  and  the 
unaffected  area  of  the  leaf.  Fungal  leaf 
spots  on  the  other  hand,  have  distinct 
margins,  and  on  the  underside  of  the  leaf 
often  display  black  dots  within  the  spot. 
Remove  leaves  with  fungal  leaf  spots  at 
once  to  keep  the  fungus  from  spreading. 
Fungi  like  a warm  and  wet  environment; 
given  both  they  will  flourish.  Keep  an 
infected  plant  at  a lowered  humidity,  and 
keep  the  leaves  dry.  Make  sure  air  circula- 


tion is  good  around  the  plant.  These  steps 
will  make  the  environment  less  favorable 
to  the  fungus. 

Powdery  mildew  and  botrytis  are  two 
other  fungal  diseases  that  prosper  when  the 
humidity  is  too  high  and  the  plant  is 
receiving  too  little  light.  Remove  any 
affected  parts,  reduce  watering,  increase 
light,  and  improve  air  circulation.  If  you 
feel  you  must  use  a fungicide,  read  the  label 
thoroughly  and  carefully  before  use. 

Plant  Problems? 

Call  the  PHS  HOTLINE  922-8043, 
Monday  through  Friday  9:30  - Noon 
(except  December). 


LETTERS  TO  THE  EDITOR 


Bambi  Go  Home 


Down’s  Syndrome 


Dear  Editor: 

I would  like  to  thank  you  for  printing  the 
excellent  and  timely  article  entitled  “Bambi 
Go  Home”  in  your  January  edition. 

I am  afraid  too  few  people  realize  the 
devastating  effect,  not  only  on  the  land  but 
also  on  the  deer  themselves,  when  any 
species  is  allowed  to  multiply  beyond  the 
capacity  of  its  area  to  support  them. 

This  is  such  a fine  article  I wish  it  could 
be  condensed  into  a flyer  and  passed  out  to 
those  well-meaning  but  uninformed 
demonstrators  who  invariably  gather  when- 
ever true  conservationists  try  to  thin  down 
a deer  population  to  a reasonable  level. 


Dear  Editor: 

I was  delighted  to  see  your  feature  on  the 
gardeners  at  the  Melmark  Home.  However, 
as  the  parent  of  a Down  Syndrome  child 
and  an  advocate  for  people  with  mental 
retardation,  I am  concerned  about  two 
comments  your  author  made: 

1.  The  short  stubby  fingers  of  Down 
Syndrome  made  tying  a difficult,  if  not 
impossible,  task. 

2.  At  first  most  Down  Syndrome  children 
are  squeamish,  hesitant  to  get  down  and 
mess  around  in  dirt. 


ish  about  dirt,  some  are  not.  We  now  know 
there’s  an  enormous  range  of  IQ  and  skills 
in  Down  Syndrome  people.  I appreciate 
your  article,  which  was  concentrating  on 
the  successes  of  retarded  people.  Such 
articles  help  break  stereotypic  ideas.  These 
two  corrections  may  seem  minor  in  light  of 
the  author’s  achievement,  but  it’s  important 
to  share  our  progress  and  new  information 
at  every  opportunity. 

Arlene  Jarett 

President,  Montgomery  County 

Association  for  Retarded  Citizens 


Nancy  Reynolds 
Greenville,  DE 


Down  Syndrome  people  exhibit  as  many 
differences  as  do  normal  people.  Some  can 
tie  easily;  some  cannot.  Some  are  squeam- 


The PlanHinder 


— A free  service  for  Green  Scene  readers 

If  you  can’t  locate  a much  wanted  plant 
send  your  name  and  address  (include  zip), 
the  botanical  and  common  names  of  the 
plant  to  Plant  Finder,  Green  Scene,  PHS, 
325  Walnut  St.,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


the  green  scene  / march  1989 


CLASSIFIED  ADS 


GARDEN  DESIGN  — Design  and  installation  of 
specialty  gardens  including  perennial  borders, 
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CAROL  MANICONE  (215)  822-1025. 


DAVID  BROTHERS 

Landscape  Architects,  Builders 
and  Nurserymen 

Providing  the  Fine  Art  of  Garden  Construction 
and  Landscape  Restoration 

QUALITY  SERVICE  WITH  COURTESY 
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LINDA  CORSON 
LANDSCAPE  DESIGN 

• Consulting 
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• Supervision 

Member  ASLA 

Registered  Landscape  Architect 
215-247-5619 


Foxborough  Nursery  is  a grower  of  dwarf  and 
unusual  conifers,  broadleafs,  and  trees.  Send 
$1 .00  for  our  40-page,  mail-order  catalog  today! 
Foxborough  Nursery,  3611  Miller  Road,  Street, 
MD  21154.  Visits  by  appointment  only.  (301) 
836-7023. 


6th  ANNUAL  OPEN  HOUSE 

Saturday  May  6, 10  am  - 4 pm 
Sunday  May  7,  Noon  - 4 pm 

Over  200  herbs 

Write  for  our  list  ($2) 

THE  DILLY  DUO  HERBS 

2015  Potshop  Road 
Norristown,  PA  19403 
(215)  539-7371 

34 

Beautiful  fuchsia  plants  shipped  in  3"  pots,  150 
varieties.  Catalog  $1.00.  Grower’s  choice 
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93907. 


Patrice  Fine  Art  Prints  is  now  offering  repro- 
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This  unique  seven  image  selection  is  available 
in  both  prints  and  notecards. 

For  further  information  contact: 

Patrice  Fine  Art  Prints 
5415  N.  Fairhill  Street 
Philadelphia,  PA  19120 

SAY  HELLO  TO  US  AT  THE 
PHILADELPHIA  FLOWER  SHOW 
BOOTH  #9 


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1 00  varieties,  standard,  miniature,  trailers,  varie- 
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Huntington  Valley,  PA  19006.  947-0144. 


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Elegant  English  Gardenflowers 
Sumptuous,  Scrumptious  Flowers 

PARTYFLOWERS  LTD.  925-3618 

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LARGE  TREES 

Shade 

Conifers 

Rare  Ornamentals 
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Tree  Transfers,  Inc. 
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LANGENBACH 

A COLLECTION  OF  THE 
WORLD’S  FINEST  GARDEN  TOOLS 

We  have  assembled  a collection 
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In  The  World. 

We  offer  them  to  you  through 
our  full  color  catalog, 

FREE! 

P.O.  Box  453,  Dept.  200 
Blairstown,  NJ  07825 

Phone  (201)362-5886 


Water  lilies,  darting  goldfish  and  splashing 
water  provide  you  with  a soothing  atmosphere, 
a pleasant  focal  point  in  your  garden.  The  1989 
LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS  catalogue  fea- 
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oasis,  including  the  pool. 

The  Lilypons  catalogue  and  seasonal  news- 
letters $5.00. 

Catalogue  by  priority  mail  $6.75. 

LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS 

5300  Scenic  Road 
P.O.  Box  10 

Lilypons,  MD  21717-0010 
(301)874-5133 


OUTDOOR  FURNITURE  SPECIALISTS 
THE  HILL  CO. 

An  outstanding  selection  of  outdoor  furniture 
and  accessories.  Featuring  select  pieces  from 
Molla  and  introducing  the  Winterthur  Collection. 

8615  Germantown  Ave. 

Chestnut  Hill  247-7600 


LARGEST  SELECTION  OF 
RHODODENDRONS  & AZALEAS 

on  the  East  Coast  with  many  new  varieties.  Also 
Kalmia,  Pieris,  and  many  companion  plants. 
Mail  order  catalog,  $2.  ROSLYN  NURSERY, 
Dept  GS,  Box  69,  Roslyn,  NY  11576. 


DISTINCTIVE  PLANTS  for  your  garden  and 
landscape.  Scarce,  unusual  and  many  old 
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APPALACHIAN  GARDENS 

P.O.  Box  82 

Waynesboro,  PA  1 7268-0082 
(717)  762-4312 


INDIAN  RUN  NURSERY 
RHODODENDRONS 

New  Jersey  grown,  small-leaved  & large-leaved 
Species  and  hybrids.  Nursery  is  3/«  mi.  from  NJ 
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ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY  LANDSCAPE 
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12  Acres  Nursery  Stock  • Landscape  Materials 
Garden  Shop  • Seasonal  Christmas  Shop 
Professional  Landscape  Design 
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Call  Now  for  Spring  Design  Consultation 

Philadelphia  Flower  Show  MAJOR  AWARD 
WINNER  1988,  1987,  1986,  1984, 1982. 

ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY 
LANDSCAPE  NURSERY 

Our  Only  Location: 

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363-2477 

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WILDFLOWERS,  FERNS,  PERENNIALS 

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Tenn.  37705. 


LIVING  SUCCULENT  WREATHS,  new  un- 
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Blvd.,  Suite  187,  Santa  Monica,  CA  90403. 


Featuring  the  new  GCA  Tulip: 
BUNDLES  OF  BULBS 
112  Green  Spring  Valley  Rd. 

Owings  Mills,  MD  21117 
(301)  363-1371 

Horticulture  Catalog  price:  $1. 

Scores  of  narcissi,  unusual  little  bulbs,  and 
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NOBLE  LANDSCAPING 

We  specialize  in  the  design  and  installation  of: 
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Call  (215)  242-8614 
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Bruce  Nisbet  Partner-owners 


■ 


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Send  $1  for  a wholesale  catalog  to: 
Simple’s  Creative  Quality  Trellis  and  Lattices 
Box  69G,  R.D.  #2,  Honey  Brook,  PA  19344 


7th  ANNUAL  OPEN  HOUSE 

Saturday  May  6,  10  am  - 4 pm 
Sunday  May  7,  Noon  - 4 pm 

Over  200  herbs 

Write  for  our  list  ($2) 

THE  DILLY  DUO  HERBS 

2015  Potshop  Road 
Norristown,  PA  19403 
(215)  539-7371 


GWYNEDD  VALLEY  — Reproduction  of  early 
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HORTICULTURIST 

Position  available.  Retail  sales,  plant  mainten- 
ance. Full  or  part-time.  Start  immediately.  269- 
2028  8 am  - 5 pm. 


Waterloo  Gardens  Presents 

“All  About  Perennials" 
with  Dr.  Darrel  Apps 

Topics  will  include:  care,  feeding,  propagation, 
identification,  plant  characteristics  and  more. 
Dates: 

PART  I PART  II 

March  April. 

10,11,12  7,8,9 

Location: 

Lionville  Holiday  Inn 
Rte.  100 
Lionville,  PA 

If  you  love  gardening,  don’t  miss  this  workshop! 
For  more  information  call: 

(215)  363-0800 

Waterloo  Gardens 

DEVON 

136  Lancaster  Ave. 

Devon,  PA  19333 
(215)  293-0800 
EXTON 

200  N.  Whitford  Rd. 

Exton,  PA  19341 
(215)  363-0800 


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BEST  KEPT  SECRET  IN  TOWN 
Open  all  winter.  Brighten  your  winter  with  our 
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event.  Custom  orders.  We  are  12  miles  from 
Center  City  Philadelphia,  nearby  Abington. 
MEADOWBROOK  FARM 
1633  Washington  Lane 
Meadowbrook,  PA  19046 
887-5900  Mon-Sat  10-5 

★ ★ 10%  DISCOUNT  TO  PHS  MEMBERS!  ★ ★ 


ENJOY  YOUR  GREENHOUSE  MORE! 

Join  the  Hobby  Greenhouse  Association,  a 
nonprofit  organization  of  plant  and  flower 
growers  in  hobby  greenhouses.  Dues  $10/yr. 
Receive  HOBBY  GREENHOUSE  magazine 
quarterly  (sample  $2).  HGA,  8 Glen  Terrace, 
Bedford,  MA  01730.  Come  grow  with  us! 


LOOKING  FOR  A BETTER  POSITION  IN 
HORTICULTURE? 

Employers  are  seeking  trained 
Horticultural  help 

If  you  are  considering  a job  change,  looking  for 
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Contact: 

L.  V.  HOWLEY,  VANTINE  ASSOCIATES 
187  Buckshire  Drive 
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HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  and  sent  to  Joseph  Robinson,  GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


Kyle  Prescott  (foreground) 
and  Daniel  Fahl,  in  the  four 
to-five  year  old  group  at  the 
ISI  Caring  Center  for 
Parents  and  Children,  weed 
corn  under  Tonya  Tate’s 
tutelage.  See  page  1 1 . 


A City  Sanctuary: 
Crozer-Chkster  Medical 
Center  Gardens . 


REEN  SCENE 


in  this  issue 


Front  Cover 
Delphiniums  grow 
alongside  the  barn  wall  at 
the  entrance  to  the  Leona 
Gold  Garden  at  Crozer- 
Chester  Medical  Center 
Gardens. 

photo  by  Christopher  Ransom 


3.  Passion,  Droughts  & 
Garden  Tours 

Jean  Byrne 

4.  The  Long-Distance 
Country  Gardener 

Mary  Lou  Wolfe 

8.  A Border  Goes  Wild 

Kath  Duckett 

12.  Philadelphia  Shows 
Off  Its  Bloomers 

Natalie  Kempner 

16.  Water  Reminders 

Anne  S.  Cunningham 

18.  Cottage  Gardening: 
An  Old  Idea  Whose  Time 
Has  Come  — Again 

Nancy  Boettger 


22.  Gardening  For 
Butterflies 

Elizabeth  F.  Sullivan 

25.  Chinese  Evergreens: 
War  Horses  of  the 
Plant  World 

Peter  Loewer 

28.  Crozer-Chester 
Medical  Center  Gardens  — 
A City  Sanctuary 

Morris  Berd 

32.  Hotline 

Kathleen  Mills 

33.  Plantfinder 

34.  Classified  Advertising 


Volume  17,  Number  5 May/June  1989 

THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY 
325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon  (Hotline  is  closed  in  December) 

Donald  L.  Felley  / Chair  Joseph  P.  Robinson  / Editorial  Assistant 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byme  / Editor  Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 

PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 


Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Steven  A.  Frowine  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  G.  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Natalie  Kempner 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell,  Baxendells'  Graphic 

Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 

Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 

THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580),  Volume  1 7,  No.  5,  published  bimonthly,  January,  March,  May, 
July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non-profit  membership 
organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription:  $8.50— Single  Copy:  $1.50. 
Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  • POSTMASTER:  Send  address  change  to  THE 
GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106 

® Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  1989 


Green  Scene  subscriptions  are  part  of  the  membership  benefits  for. 


Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
Maryland  Horticultural  Society 
Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 


Blithewold  Gardens  and  Arboretum 
Hershey  Gardens  of  Hershey,  PA 
Cox  Arboretum 


Back  Cover 
Monarch  butterfly, 
photo  by  Pat  Abel 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


PASSION,  DROUGHTS 
& GARDEN  TOURS 

(^)  By  Jean  Byrne 


Ambition.  Greed.  Not  words  you  often 
use  when  speaking  about  gardeners.  But  I 
felt  an  attack  of  mirth  coming  on  when  a 
friend  called  in  January  to  gleefully  an- 
nounce that  he  had  selected  30  kinds  of 
pepper  seeds  to  plant  for  the  Harvest  Show. 
Getting  up  steam,  he  escalated  his  flower 
and  vegetable  seed  order  as  we  talked. 
Knowing  the  limits  of  his  garden  plot,  I 
envisioned  a leveraged  takeover  of  his 
neighbor’s  garden.  His  joy  and  excitement 
were  so  real,  however,  that  I was  moved  to 
a gentler  assessment:  Passion.  Passion  for 
gardening;  passion  for  harvesting. 

Passion.  That’s  the  only  thing  that  can 
explain  Sue  Leary’s  weekly  round-trip 
jaunt  of  1 70  miles  to  garden.  I first  met  Sue 
Leary  while  she  was  pulling  a dolly  loaded 
with  vegetables  at  the  Harvest  Show  about 
six  years  ago.  She  was  winning  lots  of  blue 
ribbons  until  1987  when  she  won  the 
Horticultural  Sweepstakes,  and  in  Septem- 
ber '88,  she  copped  both  the  Preserved 
Products  and  Horticultural  Sweepstakes  at 
the  Harvest  Show.  I was  surprised  and 
awed  when  over  a year  and  a half  ago  1 
heard  Sue  Leary  had  been  maintaining  two 
gardens  — one  near  her  home  in  Collings- 
wood  and  one  in  the  Poconos.  Recently  she 
reluctantly  gave  up  the  one  near  her  home 


but  continued  her  weekly  long-distance 
gardening.  Mary  Lou  Wolfe  and  Jane 
Pepper  went  up  to  the  Poconos  to  see  this 
modest,  dedicated  gardener  in  August,  and 
Mary  Lou’s  story  appears  in  this  issue.  We 
hope  it  will  stir  all  passionate  gardeners  to 
buckle  down  and  plant  those  flowers  and 
vegetables  for  the  Harvest  Show. 

After  last  year’s  July  issue  dedicated  to 
“Water,”  I had  not  anticipated  publishing 
more  about  water  so  soon.  But  with  pre- 
science, Anne  Cunningham  compiled  a list 
of  suggestions  for  combatting  a possible 
drought  this  summer.  She  collaborated 
with  artist  Karel  Hayes  to  positively  re- 
inforce her  timely  suggestions.  They  are  on 
the  handsome  double-page  spread  on 
pages  16  and  17. 

We  welcome  to  Green  Scene  Kath 
Duckett  and  Nancy  Boettger,  two  gar- 
deners we  met  at  PHS’s  New  Members’ 
Open  House  last  June.  If  you  enjoy  the 
stories  about  Duckett's  wild,  self-seeding 
border  and  Boettger’s  story  about  her 
cottage  garden,  you'll  be  able  to  see  them 
on  PHS's  Members  Garden  Tour  to  Bucks 
County  in  June.  Check  the  PHS  News, 
(May  and  June  issues)  for  further  informa- 
tion. 

• 


3 


, 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


The  Long-Distance  Country  Gardener 


Butternut  squash  was  only  one  item  in  Sue  Leary’s  prize-winning  bounty  by  the  basket  at  the  Harvest  Show. 


You  can  take  the  woman  out  of  the  country,  but  you  can’t  take  the 
country  out  of  the  woman.  Sue  Yale  Leary  is  the  tall,  sleek,  rural  “silver 
fox”  of  the  PHS  Harvest  Show  who  walked  away  with  two  sweepstakes 
awards  in  1988.  She  drives  a white  Mercedes  and  plants  when  the  moon 
is  on  the  increase.  She  and  husband  Bob  live  in  Collingswood,  New 
Jersey,  but  garden  85  miles  away  with  the  Poconos’  Blue  Mountain  for  a 
backdrop  in  Walnutport,  Pennsylvania.  Every  week,  summer  and 
winter,  the  Learys  tool  up  the  Northeast  extension  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Turnpike  making  the  170-mile  roundtrip  that  links  their  city  and 
country  lives. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


(^)  By  Mary  Lou  Wolfe 


When  Sue  grew  up  on  the  Walnutport 
homestead  that  has  been  in  her  family  since 
1929,  her  parents  grew  almost  everything 
the  family  ate.  Their  l3/4-acre  holding 
produced  vegetables,  fruits,  chickens  and 
even  beef.  With  aunts  and  uncles  farming 
nearby,  the  Yale  family’s  calf  could  be 
fattened  on  a generous  relative’s  grass,  a 
sort  of  calf  babysitting  service,  and  it  was 
led  home  each  night  to  bed  down.  Soap  was 
made,  onions  braided  and  tomatoes  ripened 
in  the  small  summer  house  behind  the 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


The  Learys  drive 
1 70  miles  each 
week  to  tend 
the  garden  that 
yielded  two 
sweepstakes 
ribbons  at  the 
Harvest  Show. 


farmhouse.  Rows  of  home-canned  fruits 
and  vegetables  gleamed  in  the  cool  farm- 
house cellar.  Back  in  those  depression 
years.  Sue  learned  from  her  mother  the 
basics  of  bean  beetles,  cucumber  pickles 
and  dandelion  wine.  She  watched  her 
mother  use  an  arsenal  of  chemical  fer- 
tilizers and  pesticides. 

Then  came  World  War  II,  a nursing 
career,  marriage,  a move  to  New  Jersey  to 
raise  a family  and  garden  on  her  own.  She 
read  Organic  Gardening  magazine  and 
Ruth  Stout’s  book  How  to  Have  a Green 
Thumb  Without  an  Aching  Back.  She  had 
decided  against  using  chemicals  in  her 
garden  and  was  well  on  her  way  to 
becoming  an  organic  gardener  when  a 
lucky  stop  on  a trip  to  New  England  really 
converted  her.  Driving  through  Connecticut 
with  Bob,  she  realized  she  was  passing 
f through  the  town  of  Redding  where  Ruth 
° Stout  gardened  and  wrote.  On  an  impulse 
^ she  stopped  at  a fruit  stand  to  ask  directions 
^ to  Stout’s  garden  and  was  pointed  toward 
r two  old  houses  a quarter-mile  away. 
^ Knocking  at  one  she  was  met  by  Stout’s 
s.  sister  who  pronounced  “Ruth’s  an  old  lady. 
Don’t  take  up  her  time.”  Our  silver  fox  was 
undaunted  and  knocked  at  the  other  door. 
Ruth  Stout  greeted  her  with  “Oh,  come  in!  I 
want  you  to  see  my  garden.  Don’t  worry 
about  my  sister.”  Leary  remembers  Stout’s 
explanations  about  not  tilling  the  ground, 
sowing  on  top  and  mulching,  mulching, 
mulching.  Ruth  Stout  was  then  in  her  late 
eighties  and  her  graciousness  and  theories 
made  a big  impression  on  Sue  Leary. 

In  Walnutport,  the  frequent  hand  culti- 
vating and  dust  mulches  her  parents 
practiced  have  been  replaced  with  weekly 
mulching  with  grass  clippings  and  leaf 
compost.  Last  summer’s  drought  was  a 


good  test  of  this  approach  and  the  1 ,500- 
sq.  ft.  garden  flourished.  Part  of  this  success 
is  due  to  Bob’s  special  contribution  — 
finding  a supply  of  goat  manure  from  a 
nearby  outfit  that  provides  some  of  New 
York  City’s  Middle  Eastern  and  Greek 
population  with  goat  meat.  The  goat 
manure  is  aged  for  three  years  before  the 
Learys  use  it  on  crops,  and  a handful  goes 
into  the  bottom  of  every  tomato  hole. 

January  finds  Sue  Leary  poring  over  the 
avalanche  of  seed  catalogs  that  arrive  in 
Collingswood.  Years  of  gardening  both  in 
New  Jersey  and  farther  north  toward  the 
Poconos  have  taught  her  what  will  and 
won’t  thrive.  Eggplant  and  melons  need  a 
longer  growing  season  than  Walnutport 
provides  and  early  peas  tried  there  are 
always  a disappointment.  Burpee’s  ‘Wando’ 
pea,  planted  later,  tolerates  heat  and  pro- 
duces well.  Leary  grows  Dr.  Martin’s  limas 
from  John  and  Janet  Gyer’s  Femhill  (N.J.) 

Farm  and  another  smaller  lima  you 
probably  never  heard  of.  Dr.  Strohl’s.  This 
is  heirloom  seed  given  Sue’s  mother  by  her 
dentist,  Dr.  Strohl,  and  saved  to  plant  each 
year.  In  the  ’89  summer  Sue  will  try  some 
vegetables  new  to  her,  kohlrabi  and  pea- 
nuts. Her  great  success  with  most  vege- 
tables is  evidenced  by  her  14  blue  ribbons 
in  the  horticultural  section  of  the  ’88 
Harvest  Show. 

On  a wide,  sunny,  south  windowsill  in 
Collingswood,  cabbage,  tomato,  pepper 
and  leek  seeds  are  started,  transplanted  to 
2”x2”  pots,  and  carted  85  miles  for  plant- 
ing in  late  April,  May  and  June.  In  the  5 
garden,  Leary  uses  1 2”  pieces  of  discarded 
Venetian  blinds  to  label  varieties  and  record 
planting  dates.  They’re  wonderfully  legible. 


Spurning  chemical  controls , Leary  uses 
organic  gardening  guerrilla  tactics. 


An  intricate  progression  of  plantings  insures 
a long  supply  of  carrots,  potatoes,  squash, 
com,  tomatoes  and  beans. 

Spurning  chemical  controls,  Leary  uses 
organic  gardening  guerrilla  tactics.  Wood 
ashes  surround  her  potato  and  squash 
plants  whose  stalks,  at  season’s  end,  are 
burned,  not  composted.  The  wood  ash 
repels  the  Colorado  potato  beetle  and 
squash  bug;  its  potash  and  lime  benefits  the 
plant’s  growth.  A mix  of  flour,  salt  and 
baking  powder  is  dusted  on  cole  crops  to 
discourage  cabbage  worms,  and  cabbage 

continued 


6 


heads  are  further  protected  with  a cover  of 
fine  plastic  netting  or  panty  hose  tops. 
Pungent  herbs  like  oregano  and  thyme  are 
interplanted  with  cabbage.  Snails  (slugs) 
are  a problem  but  Leary  encourages  the 
bird  patrol  by  posting  a wren  house 
adorned  with  branches  right  in  the  garden. 
She  finds  that  the  branches  ensure  that  the 
house  gets  occupied  and  that  hungry  wrens 
will  emerge.  The  “no  chemical  sprays” 
philosophy  applies  to  the  three  apple  and 
one  pear  tree  on  the  homestead.  Leary 
admits  the  yield  is  not  good  and  that  it  may 
take  six  or  seven  years  of  combat  with  the 
main  pest,  the  coddling  moth,  to  get  a good 
crop.  She  hangs  yellow  pheromone  traps  to 
catch  the  moths  and  will  wrap  the  tree 
trunks  with  burlap  or  corrugated  paper, 
removing  and  burning  these  as  the  moths 
lay  their  eggs  there.  In  the  meantime  there’s 
enough  useable  fruit  for  jam  and  jelly. 

As  her  crops  progress,  Leary  scouts 
specimens  that  might  be  winners.  When  I 
visited  in  August,  Sue  parted  the  leaves  of  a 
‘Cushaw’  green  striped  squash  and  care- 
fully slipped  a clean  board  under  one 
especially  comely  fruit.  The  board  pro- 
tected its  underside  from  scarring  as  it 
continued  to  grow  and  helped  produce  the 
blue  ribbon  winner  pictured  here. 

Sue  Leary  still  produces  gleaming  jars  of 
canned  fruits,  vegetables,  relishes  and  jams 
that  sit  on  those  same  shelves  that  her 
mother  filled  in  a cool  Walnutport  cellar. 
But  some  things  are  different.  There  are  no 
chickens  and  no  calf  to  take  to  day-care. 
There  are  three  freezers  (two  of  which  are 
in  Collingswood)  and  a microwave  in  each 
state’s  kitchen.  Leary  cans  to  please  herself 
and  delight  her  friends  and  family.  The 
parade  of  dilly  beans,  corn  relishes,  pickled 
beets  and  spiced  onion  rings  is  awesome 
and,  according  to  the  '88  Harvest  Show 
judges,  delicious  and  beautiful  enough  to 
win  the  PHS  Preserved  Products  Sweep- 


Leary’s  Queen  Anne’s  Lace  Jelly 

Bring  31/2  cups  of  water  to  a boil. 
Remove  from  heat  and  add  1 5 large 
Queen  Anne’s  Lace  flowerheads. 
Brew  to  make  a strong  “tea.”  Strain 
and  measure  3 cups  of  this  liquid. 

Dissolve  1 box  of  pectin  (Sure-Jell) 
in  the  3 cups  of  flowerhead  “tea.” 
Bring  this  mixture  to  a boil  and  add 
3%  cups  of  sugar.  Stir  until  sugar  is 
dissolved. 

Pour  into  sterilized  jars,  cool  and 
cover  with  melted  parrafin. 


Sue  Leary's  bounty  by  the  basket  won  a blue  at  the  Harvest  Show.  Her  43 
horticultural  entries  netted  14  blues,  4 seconds,  4 thirds,  and  8 honorable 
mentions  as  well  as  a bronze  for  her  leeks. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


stakes  certificate.  One  that  particularly 
intrigued  me  was  Leary’s  Queen  Anne’s 
lace  jelly,  and  she  graciously  shared  the 
recipe  and  says  it’s  especially  good  with 
chicken! 

Having  just  pulled  a muscle  in  my  back 
and  also  envying  Sue’s  meeting  long  ago 
with  Ruth  Stout,  I picked  up  Howto  Have  a 
Green  Thumb  Without  an  Aching  Back  to 
reacquaint  myself  with  this  great  lady. 


Beans 

CONTENDER 

string  — 6-7”  long;  good  for  “DiliyBeans” 
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Center  & Atlantic  Aves. 

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(609)468-1000 

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yellow  wax 
Harris  Seeds 
Moreton  Farm 
3670  Buffalo  Road 
Rochester,  NY  14624 
(716)594-9411 

DR.  MARTIN  S 
limas 

Fernhill  Farm 
Jessup  Mill  Road 
Clarksboro,  NJ  08020 

DR.  STROHL’S 
small  lima 

Heirloom  seed  from  dentist 

Beets 

DETROIT 
sweet,  dark  red 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

LONG  SEASON 
can  harvest  at  any  stage 
Harris  Seeds 

Cabbage 

EARLY  JERSEY  WAKEFIELD 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

MAMOUTH  RED 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

LATE  FLAT  RED 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

Carrots 

IMPERATOR 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  Co. 

Warminster,  PA  18974 
(215)674-4915 

ROYAL  CHANTENAY 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

SCARLET  NANTES 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

SHORT  & SWEET 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 


Ruth  Stout  shared  her  mystery  writer 
brother  Rex’s  talents,  and  I nodded  and 
smiled  my  way  through  this  book  that 
made  horticultural  waves  when  first  pub- 
lished in  1955. 1 especially  like  this  passage 
which  seems  to  me  to  fit  Sue  Leary: 
“Planning  a garden  is  like  planning  a way 
of  life;  arrange  it  to  please  yourself,  copying 
neither  convention,  nor  tradition,  nor  any 
individual,  enjoy  it  and  hope  that  a few 


other  people  besides  you  will  be  pleased 
with  it.”* 


How  to  Have  a Green  Thumb  Without  an  Aching 
Back:  A New  Method  of  Mulch  Gardening. 
By  Ruth  Stout,  N.Y.,  Exposition  Press,  1955, 
*p.  1 40.  Available  on  loan  from  the  PHS  Library. 

• 

Mary  Lou  Wolfe,  a writer/photographer,  is  a 
frequent  contributor  to  Green  Scene. 


SUE  LEARY’S  VEGETABLE  CHOICES 

Corn 
SPRITE 
68  days 
Harris  Seeds 

HARMONY 
73-day  bicolor 
Harris  Seeds 

SILVER  QUEEN 
94  days 
Harris  Seeds 

Cucumbers 
CALYPSO 
good  pickier 
Harris  Seeds 

SWEET  SUCCESS 
long  — good  for  salads 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

Okra 

ANNIE  OAKLEY 
53  days 

Orol  Ledden  & Sons 
Peas 

WANDO 
late,  tolerates  heat 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  Co. 

LINCOLN 
Harris  Seeds 

KNIGHT 

Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

Peppers 

BIG  BERTHA 
to  stuff 
Harris  Seeds 

SWEET  PICKLE 

to  can  with  dried  Thai  hot  peppers.  A 
“challenge”  seed,  prolific  and  splendid 
Harris  Seeds 

CAYENNE 
Harris  Seeds 

Potatoes 

RED  PONTIAC 
early  to  mid-season 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

YUKON  GOLD 
large,  gold  inside 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

KATAHDIN 
good  winter  keeper 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 


Pumpkins 

JACK-BE-LITTLE 

for  perfect  specimens,  grow  on  fence 

W.  Atlee  Burpee  Co. 

GODIVA 
hulless  seeds  to  eat 
Harris  Seeds 

Squash 

SUNBURST 

first  yellow  scalloped  to  ripen 
Harris  Seeds 

TURK'S  TURBAN 
ornamental 
Harris  Seeds 

CUSHAW 
green  striped 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

BUTTERCUP 

Sue  sometimes  eats  it  for  breakfast! 
Harris  Seeds 

BUTTERNUT 
Harris  Seeds 

Tomatoes 
ACE  55VF 
lasts  very  well 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

BETTER  BOY 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  Co. 

DEL  ORO 

better  than  plum  tomatoes  for  canning 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 

RAMAPO 
a good  late  one 
Orol  Ledden  & Sons 


A lightweight  cloth  protects  Leary’s 
sunflower  seeds  from  the  birds  until  they 
are  ripe.  Leary  says  “Feed  the  birds  in 
winter,  not  summer.” 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


A BORDER  GOES  WILD 


Kath  Duckett’s  June  border  of  self-seeding  perennials,  biennials  and  annuals  includes  Coreopsis,  Silene  anneria,  shasta  daisies  ‘May 
Queen,’  and  flanders  poppies. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


“Showers  or  flowers”  I tell  my 
family,  and  they  consistently 
vote  for  the  showers. 


An  old  stone  dry  wall  trans- 
verses  the  hillside  behind 
our  home.  My  first  peren- 
nial border  was  planted  using  the 
wall  as  a backdrop.  I spent  the 
previous  winter  meticulously  lay- 
ing out  the  plan  on  graph  paper, 
using  four  transparent  overlays 
for  seasons  and  colors.  The  plants 
were  all  herbaceous  perennials  with  the 
exception  of  a few  biennials.  That  was  13 
years  ago  and  the  garden  which  measured 
8 by  50  feet,  has  now  grown  to  20  by  1 50 
feet.  Many  of  the  original  plants  no  longer 
exist  either  because  I changed  my  mind  or 
they  could  not  tolerate  the  site.  The  bi- 
ennials have  moved  around  and  I’ve  added 
new  plants.  Since  people  invariably  offer 
you  plants  that  have  overrun  their  own 
gardens,  most  of  my  plants  were  carefully 
purchased.  Seeds  are  a different  story;  1 
cannot  resist  the  offer  of  a few  seeds  to 
scatter  about. 

I was  surprised  last  June  when  I realized 
the  border’s  masses  of  blooms  had  little  to 
do  with  my  efforts  or  expertise.  The  plants 
had  taken  control  of  themselves  vigorously 
seeding,  not  always  where  I would  have 
chosen;  and  they  were  not  all  perennials  or 
biennials.  The  drifts  of  color  I was  enjoying 
were  largely  annuals. 

I had  long  been  aware  of  the  seeding 
potential  of  some  plants  as  a source  of  new 
material.  My  first  shasta  daisies  were 
discarded  seedlings  from  a friend’s  compost 
pile.  I enjoyed  their  bloom  in  combination 
with  the  bearded  iris  so  much  that  I let  them 
seed  where  they  might  until  I realized  they 
all  but  submerged  the  iris.  I reluctantly 
began  moving  some  of  the  shasta  daisies.  In 


The  delicate  pale  orange  flowers  of  Papaver  atlanticum,  a self- 
seeding  perennial,  blooms  for  up  to  two  months  if  deadheaded. 

bloom  sequence  the  daisies  were  joined  by 
blue  flax  which  produce  hundreds  of  sky 
blue  flowers,  each  only  lasting  a day  from 
May  to  July  when  I cut  them  back  to  force  a 
second  bloom. 

Another  perennial,  tickseed,  a lovely 
bright  gold  daisy,  quickly  proved  itself  a 
prolific  seeder.  This  tall  somewhat  leggy 
variety  reigned  during  June  and  July  until  I 
discovered  that  a much  tidier  relative 
Coreopsis  ‘Baby  Sun’  would  also  seed.  The 
tickseed  went  to  the  back  of  the  border 
where  it  can  flop  over  whatever  it  chooses. 

At  least,  that  is  the  plan.  In  reality,  the 
initial  foliage  of  both  plants  is  difficult  to 
tell  apart  and  sometimes  the  tickseed  slips 
by  to  the  front  where  only  its  increasing 
height  leads  to  its  demise. 

Golden  Marguerite,  another  charming 
lemon-yellow  three-foot  daisy,  which  pre- 
fers low  fertility  soil,  was  the  next  perennial 
to  vie  for  supremacy  in  the  June/July 
border.  It  seeds  rampantly  although  the 
flowers  of  these  seedlings  are  slightly 
smaller  than  the  cultivar.  I periodically 
discard  the  older  plants  because  in  my 
fertile  soil  after  two  years  they  tend  to 
become  leggy  and  less  attractive,  while  the 
new  additions  form  a bushier,  more  com- 
pact plant. 

More  recent  perennial  additions  include 


Salvia  x superba  ‘East  Friesland’ 
at  1 Vi  feet  with  purple  spikes,  and 
perennial  sweet  pea,  a grey-green- 
leaved vine  in  every  shade  of  pink 
plus  white.  Both  have  proven  their 
propensity  for  seeding  despite 
being  heavily  cut  back  in  July  to 
force  a second  bloom.  The  original 
sweet  pea  vine  was  planted  to 
climb  over  a large  baby’s  breath;  however, 
its  seedlings  rapidly  began  draping  them- 
selves over  and  smothering  every  flower 
nearby.  I must  remove  unwanted  seedlings 
quickly  as  the  root  systems  become  tena- 
cious and  deep. 

biennials 

I have  always  relied  on  a few  biennials: 
sweet  rocket,  a three-foot-tall  plant  re- 
sembling phlox  with  either  lilac  or  white 
flowers,  which  appear  in  May,  followed  by 
foxglove  with  their  tall  stately  spires  of 
pink  and  yellow,  and  a salmon  pink  sweet 
william  ‘Newport  Pink,’  a biennial  Dianthus 
about  12  inches  tall. 

annuals 

Two  years  ago,  I added  a few  annual 
larkspur  to  supplement  the  delphinium, 
which,  despite  my  best  efforts,  maintain  up 
to  a 50%  mortality  rate.  The  larkspur 
quickly  became  a sea  of  blue  in  May  and 
June.  Another  hardy  annual  ‘Catchfly,’ 
with  its  lovely  blue-grey  foliage  and  bril- 
liant pink  flower  heads,  seems  able  to  seed 
almost  anywhere,  and  1 frequently  find  it 
happily  blooming  between  stepping  stones. 
In  June,  I also  rely  on  the  yearly  return  of 
three  varieties  of  hardy  annual  poppies:  the 
brilliant  scarlet  flanders;  the  pastel  pinks  of 


(^)  By  Kath  Duckett 


Self-seeding 
plants:  more 
color  and  less 
work  at  home 
for  a busy 
perennial 
garden  designer. 


continued 


9 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Marilyn  Stouffer 


Two  annuals,  larkspur  and 
the  Paeony  Flowered 
poppy,  with  perennial 
sweet  pea  starting  its 
climb  over  the  large 
baby’s  breath  on  the  right. 


This  section  of  the  June 
border  includes  digitalis 
along  with  the  Coreopsis, 
‘May  Queen’  shasta, 
larkspur  and  Flanders 
poppy. 


▼ 


10 


Shirley  and  Paeony  Flowered;  and  one 
perennial,  Papaver  atlanticum,  with  deli- 
cate pale  orange  flowers,  which  also  self- 
seeds, and  whose  bloom  period  covers  two 
months  if  deadheaded. 

While  the  annuals  have  their  most  spec- 
tacular display  in  May  and  June,  later  in  the 
season  I depend  on  other  perennials  to  seed 
in  including  Heliopsis,  Echinacea , Echinops, 
and  Aster.  This  year,  I will  add  Cosmos  and 
Cleome  (spider  flower),  both  annuals  in 
white  and  shades  of  pink,  to  supplement  the 
late  garden.  Altogether  in  various  situa- 
tions on  my  property  (sun,  shade  and 
rockery)  I can  count  on  35  perennials,  five 
biennials  and  seven  annuals  to  seed  in. 

what  affects  germination? 

A couple  of  factors  affect  germination  in 
my  garden,  including  rain  or  the  lack  of  it. 
We  depend  on  a well,  and  I can  seldom 
water  without  the  risk  of  running  dry. 
“Showers  or  flowers”  I tell  my  family,  and 
they  consistently  vote  for  the  showers. 
Undoubtedly,  the  most  important  ingredi- 
ent in  this  garden  is  mushroom  soil,  simply 
horse  manure,  which  has  been  used  to  grow 
mushrooms.  In  the  process,  it  is  steamed  to 
kill  weed  seeds  and  loses  most  of  its 
fertility.  If  allowed  to  compost  it  has  an 
almost  neutral  pH.  I use  it  in  vast  quantities 
as  a soil  amendment  and  mulch.  It  does  not 
last  from  year  to  year  like  a bark  mulch,  but 
works  its  way  into  the  soil  creating  a grand 


humusy-growing  medium. 

I also  play  a part  in  this  seeding  process. 
My  work  schedule  does  not  allow  me  much 
time  to  spend  in  my  own  garden  so  in  the 
case  of  perennials  and  biennials,  I do  a lax 
job  of  deadheading,  allowing  at  least  some 
flowers  to  go  to  seed.  With  annuals  you 
must  let  a few  plants  die  back  completely 
to  have  mature  seeds.  Since  dying  plants 
are  unsightly,  I select  those  that  are  hidden 
from  view  by  taller  perennials  and,  during 
the  fall  cleanup,  distribute  the  seeds  where  I 
hope  they  will  grow.  Therein  lies  the 
drawback  to  this  form  of  gardening.  You 
cannot  control  where  seeds  will  germinate. 
Despite  my  best  efforts,  the  brilliant  red 
flanders  poppy  seems  irresistibly  drawn  to 
my  pink  peonies.  But  then  the  peonies  only 
last  a week  or  two  and  precede  the  poppy  in 
bloom,  so  I choose  to  overlook  that  garish 
week  knowing  how  lovely  those  red 
flowers  will  soon  look  next  to  the  dark 
green  peony  foliage. 

If  you  prefer  a less  harsh,  more  pastel 
tone  try  the  Peaony  Flowered  Papaver 
somniferum  ‘Pink  Beauty’  with  its  shaggy 
double  pink  blossoms  and  blue-grey  foli- 
age. My  hands-off  methods  of  allowing  this 
poppy  to  seed  itself  may  be  the  only  legal 
way  in  this  country  to  perpetuate  it  in 
gardens,  as  it  is  illegal  to  germinate  P. 
somniferum.  In  any  case,  I am  sure  the  red 
flanders  and  pink  paeony  poppy  will  shortly 
find  each  other. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Marilyn  Stouffer 


Along  with  this  inherent  obstinacy  to 
seed  where  they  will,  my  problem  is  com- 
pounded by  the  fact  that  my  garden  is 
situated  on  a hillside.  Every  flower  tends  to 
want  a front-row  seat.  Quite  a few  plants 
jump  the  gate  entirely  or,  in  my  case,  a wide 
brick  edging  at  the  front  of  the  border,  and 
end  up  in  the  lawn.  The  habitual  offenders 
usually  are  the  tallest  plants,  while  edging 
plants  like  basket-of-gold  frequently  seek 


a quieter  spot  in  mid-border. 

All  in  all,  I would  not  advise  those  of  you 
who  require  control  and  orderliness  to 
pursue  this  type  of  gardening.  But,  if  you 
love  the  unexpected,  rejoice  in  the  almost 
effortless  occurrence  of  new  plants  and  can 
look  forward  to  a garden  that  not  only 
changes  with  sequence  of  bloom  but  some- 
times dramatically  from  year  to  year,  my 
wild  border  may  be  for  you. 


• 

Kath  Duckett  turned  an  avid  love  of  gardening 
into  a profession  eight  years  ago  when  she  began 
a landscape  firm  specializing  in  designing  and 
installing  perennial  beds,  borders  and  rockeries. 
Her  firm.  Perennial  Designs,  is  located  in 
Doylestown,  Pa.  She  is  a member  of  PHS,  the 
Perennial  Plant  Association,  the  American 
Rock  Garden  Society  and  Landscape  Design 
Network  and  frequently  teaches  and  speaks  on 
the  uses  of  perennials. 


KEY 


HP Hardy  Perennial 

A Annual 

HB Hardy  Biennial 


SELF-SEEDING  BORDER  PLANTS  (in  order  of  bloom) 


Plant 

Time  of  Bloom 

Height 

Color 

Type 

Comment 

Aurinia  saxatilis  (basket-of-gold) 

May 

12  in. 

yellow 

HP 

Hesperis  matronalis  (sweet  rocket) 

May,  June 

36  in. 

lilac,  white 

HB 

The  height  is  an  unusual  bonus  in  early  spring 

Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum  ‘May  Queen’ 

May,  June 

18-24  in. 

white 

HP 

a cultivar  of  the  wild  ox  eye  daisy 

Papaver  commutatum  (Flanders  poppy) 

May,  June 

18-24  in. 

scarlet 

A 

Papaver  atlanticum 

May  - July 

18-24  in. 

orange 

HP 

lovely  in  a rockery,  if  deadheaded  blooms 
most  of  the  summer 

Papaver  rhoeas  (Shirley  poppy) 

May,  June 

24  in. 

pink,  white, 
rose,  salmon, 
crimson 

A 

very  difficult  to  transplant 

Dianthus  barbatus  (sweet  william) 

June 

6-18  in. 

red,  white,  pink, 
rosy  purple 

HB 

Papaver  somniferum  (peaony  flowered  poppy) 

June,  July 

26  in. 

pink,  white 

A 

seed  among  lower  growing  perennials  to 
soften  the  stiff  bright  stem,  perhaps  salvia  or 
lavender 

Digitalis  purpurea  (foxglove) 

June 

3-5  ft. 

cream,  pink, 
carmine,  purple 

HB 

prefers  partial  shade,  lovely  vertical  accent 

Silene  armeria  (catchfly) 

June 

16-18  in. 

bright  pink 

A 

seedlings  germinate  at  different  rates  so 
blooms  appear  throughout  the  summer 

Anthemis  tinctoria  (golden  marguerite) 

June,  July 

24-36  in. 

yellow 

HP 

a short-lived  evergreen  perennial 

Consolida  orientalis  (annual  larkspur) 

June,  July 

3-4  ft. 

blue 

A 

Lathyrus  latifolius  (perennial  sweet  pea) 

June  to  August 

3-9  ft. 

pink,  white, 
rose 

HP 

climbing  or  trailing  vine,  prone  to  mites,  cut 
back  for  second  bloom 

Salvia  x superba  ‘East  Friesland’ 

June 

18  in. 

violet  purple 

HP 

reblooms  if  cut  back  heavily 

Coreopsis  ‘Baby  Sun' 

June  to  August 

12-36  in. 

yellow 

HP 

deadheading  can  be  tedious  so  I shear  back 
in  mid-summer  to  force  a second  bloom 

Echinacea  purpurea  (purple  coneflower) 

July,  August 

24-36  in. 

rose 

HP 

flowers  resemble  Rudbeckia,  seedlings  will 
not  be  true  to  parent 

Echinops  ritro  (globe  thistle) 

July,  August 

36  in. 

blue 

HP 

the  globular  flowerheads  are  used  fresh  or 
dried 

Heliopsis  ‘Summer  Sun’ 

June  to  August 

36  in. 

yellow 

HP 

Cleome  spinosa  (spider  plant) 

July,  August 

3-6  ft. 

white,  rose, 
pink 

A 

heat  and  drought  resistant,  good  back  of  the 
border  plant 

Aster  novae-angliae  (michaelimas  daisy) 

September 

36-48  in. 

violet  blue, 
purple,  rose,  pink 

HP 

A.  novi-belgii  also  seed,  seedling  colors  will 
vary,  pinch  back  for  a more  compact  plant 

Linum  perenne  (blue  flax) 

May  to  July 

20  in. 

blue 

HP 

1 1 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


Much-decorated  contest  veteran,  Blanche  Epps,  at  work  in  her  West  Philadelphia  backyard 
Container  Garden.  She  was  third  place  in  the  category. 


The  Pennsylvania  Horticultural 
Society,  through  Philadelphia 
Green,  boasts  the  most  concen- 
trated community  gardening  movement  in 
the  United  States,  linking  once  separated 
neighbors  and  neighborhoods  into  a com- 


munity of  gardeners. 

I am  a passionate  convert  to  Philadelphia 
gardening  — a true  believer  in  its  miracles. 
1 do  not  suggest  that  PHS  can  save  the 
world,  but  it  certainly  goes  farther  than  any 
other  thing  I’ve  heard  about  for  setting 


Front  30  gardens 
in  1975 , the  City 
Gardens  Contest 
judges  now  visit 
more  than  600 
Philadelphia 
gardens.  The 
winners  fill  the 
Port  of  History 
Museum. 


Philadelphia  back  on  track  towards  Penn’s 
vision  of  a “greene  countrie  towne”  filled 
with  brotherly  and  sisterly  love. 

All  movements  of  faith  and  vision  need 
ceremonies  of  commitment  — upbeat 
occasions  for  solidarity  and  renewal.  For 
this,  Philadelphia  gardeners  have  the  yearly 
City  Gardens  Contest  with  its  culminating 
event.  Awards  Night,  a jubilant  celebration 
of  triumphs  in  the  ongoing  battle  to  reclaim 
the  city’s  wastelands. 

The  first  City  Gardens  Contest,  spon- 
sored by  The  Daily  News  and  PHS  in  1975, 
was  open  only  to  community  vegetable 
gardens.  The  30  contestants  entered  by 
submitting  photos  of  their  gardens. 

The  14th  annual  Contest  in  1988,  spon- 
sored by  PHS  in  cooperation  with  Penn 
State’s  Urban  Gardening  Program,  was 
open  to  individual  and  community  gar- 
deners in  categories  ranging  from  con- 
tainers on  rooftops  to  agricultural  wonder- 
lands covering  acres  of  city  blocks.  A team 
of  three  to  five  judges,  selected  from  a pool 
of  385,  visited  each  of  the  545  entry 
gardens. 

In  considering  the  evolution  of  the  City 
Gardens  Contest,  one  must  consider  Jean 
Byall  and  Flossie  Narducci.  These  two 
women  personify,  each  in  her  particular 
way,  the  solid  accomplishments  and  pure 
fun  that  characterize  the  Contest.  The  very 
symbol  of  the  Contest  — the  giant  red  rose 
bursting  through  the  top  of  City  Hall  — is  a 
reminder  of  Byall,  contest  coordinator  from 
1980  until  1985.  Since  Byall’s  retirement, 
Narducci,  Philadelphia  Green  activities 
coordinator,  has  presided  with  grace  over 
Contest  affairs,  meeting  regularly  with  a 
creative  Contest  Committee  of  15  city 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett  photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


City  Garden  Contest  judges  called  Sister  Mary  Martha  “Philadelphia’s  Patron  Saint  of 
Gardening.”  All  the  flowers,  vegetables  and  herbs  she  grows  are  used  in  the  Nicetown  Sacred 
Heart  Nursing  Home  where  she  works. 


Third  place  winner  in  Greenest  Block  in  Town  category:  In  one  season  barrels  of  blossoms  took 
over  barren  spaces  at  Johnson  Homes,  part  of  Philadelphia’s  public  housing. 


gardeners.  Their  last  year’s  publicity  posters 
encouraged  gardeners  to  “Show  Off  Your 
Bloomers.” 

Promotion  for  Contest  entries  begins  at 
the  Spring  Flower  Show  in  March  and 
continues  in  April  with  a bulk  mailing  to 
every  known  gardener  in  the  city.  The 
single  limitation  for  the  Contest  is  that  the 
garden  is  within  Philadelphia. 

Judges,  however,  are  not  limited  geo- 
graphically, and  they  are  recruited  from  the 


entire  tri-state  area.  Jane  Pepper,  president 
of  PHS,  explains:  “You  don't  have  to  be  an 
experienced  judge,  just  a dirt-digger  who 
appreciates  the  special  challenges  of  gar- 
dening in  the  city.”  The  result  is  a savvy 
mix  of  suburban  garden  club  members  and 
seasoned  urban  gardeners,  many  of  whom 
are  also  contestants,  PHS  staff  persons  and 
Council  members. 

The  monumental  organizational  feat  of 
coordinating  entries  and  judges  is  pulled 


“We  served  lemonade  and  even  the 
trash  collectors  joined  in.  The  drug 
addicts  rolled  wheelbarrows  for  us  and 
the  neighborhood  prostitutes  came  by 
to  say  how  beautiful  it  was.  Before  you 
knew  it,  the  space  was  clean,  the  fence 
up,  flowers  planted  and  everyone 
oooohed  and  aaahed:  ‘We  did  it!’. . . ” 

Mary  Walke 


off  by  Narducci,  who  calls  herself  the  Zip 
Code  Queen.  “I  simply  take  over  the 
conference  room,”  says  she,  where  she 
covers  every  surface  with  lists  and  maps  as 
she  divides  judges  into  100  teams  of  three 
to  five  members  and  assigns  them  to  500- 
plus  gardens  for  the  preliminary  round  of 
judging  in  July. 

In  first-round  judging,  gardens  are  as- 
signed by  zip  code,  not  category,  and  each 
garden  is  evaluated  on  its  own  merit, 
numerically  and  with  comments  by  each 
judge.  In  the  final  round,  the  top-scoring 
1 0-20  gardens  in  each  category  are  assigned 
to  one  team  of  judges  and  each  garden  is 
judged  against  all  the  others  in  its  category. 

an  antidote  to  politics  and  pollution 

Judging  in  the  City  Gardens  Contest  is 
the  perfect  antidote  to  despair  over  Phila- 
delphia politics  and  pollution.  Furthermore, 
it  offers  pragmatic  lessons  in  navigation, 
geography,  logic,  horticulture,  community 
organizing,  group  dynamics,  cooking,  lin- 
guistics, gymnastics,  landscaping,  decision- 
making — I could  go  on. 

Because  part  of  Narducci’s  master-plan 
is  to  assign  judges  to  new  localities  each 
year,  repeat  performers  gain  an  ever- 
increasing  knowledge  of  the  Philadelphia 
gardening  scene.  My  years  of  judging 
provide  vivid,  varied  memories  — a quiet 
rock  garden  pool  in  Fishtown,  soybeans  in 
West  Philadelphia,  hanging  melons  in 
Kensington,  a mini  waterfall  in  Northern 
Liberties.  In  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  in 
West  Philadelphia,  Blanche  Epps  grows 
peanuts,  cotton,  tobacco,  sugar  cane  — 
reminders  of  her  roots.  “I  want  my  grand- 
kids  to  know,”  she  explains. 

Some  judging  teams  stick  together  year 
after  year.  Others  leave  arranging  the  team 
to  Narducci.  I have  worked  with  new 
people  every  year,  and  each  time  we  are 
quickly  bonded  through  scouting  unknown 
turf  together,  and  witnessing  a greening 
movement  that  cuts  through  differences  in 
age,  sex,  race,  culture,  religion  — all  those 
areas  community  activists  agonize  about. 

what  the  judges  consider 

Judges  quickly  learn  that  in  many  parts 

continued 


13 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


s 


First  place  in  the  large  Community  Flower/Sitting  Garden  division  was  awarded  to  Mary  Walke 
and  Neighbors  for  this  reclaimed  dumping  site  across  from  their  houses  on  the  3900  block  of 
North  1 3 th  St. 


of  the  city,  only  a stout-hearted  optimist 
would  even  consider  sowing  a seed. 

The  obvious  problem  is  space;  that  is, 
inventing  a site  when  your  doorstep  is  on 
the  sidewalk  and  your  backyard  is  concrete 

— or,  if  there  is  a vacant  lot,  clearing  it.  In 
Kensington,  an  arthritic  gardener  led  our 
reluctant  judging  team  up  a rickety  ladder 
to  view  her  garage  roof  garden  of  container 
plants.  Blanche  Epps  and  friends  hauled 
away  35  truckloads  of  trash  before  gar- 
dening began  in  Gethsemane. 

Depleted  soil,  vandalism,  and  lack  of 
light,  water  and  convenient  garden  centers 

— all  are  problems  indigenous  to  urban 
gardening. 

Fertilizer  for  Tatiana  Bembischew’s 
West  Kensington  garden  came  from  walk- 
ing trips  to  the  nearest  police  horse  barns. 
For  mulch,  she  carried  leaves  in  bags  from 
the  Park. 

For  many  years,  before  Wilhelmina 
Jones  got  her  centralized  drip  water  system, 
this  73-year-old  Special  Awards  winner 
carried  water  to  her  garden  in  a 30-gallon 
plastic  trash  can.  In  Salvador  Morales’s 
vegetable  garden,  the  judges  discovered 
“the  most  ingenious  watering  system  we’ve 
ever  seen.  Hoses  run  to  a tree  in  the  middle 
of  the  garden  with  two  fan  blades,  which 
sprinkle  the  garden  when  the  water  is  on.” 

Gardens  in  the  shadows  of  tall  buildings 
crave  sunshine.  For  Lawrence  King,  foil  on 
the  house  wall  reflects  light  and  warms  the 
vegetables. 

innovations  and  hospitality 

Without  garden  centers,  innovative  re- 
cycling is  imperative  for  urban  gardeners. 
Salvaged  sinks  and  toilet  bowls  overflow 
with  plants.  Beans  climb  up  crutches  and 
stepladders.  In  one  neighborhood,  colorful 
bathroom  fixtures,  discarded  from  a local 
factory,  mark  walkways.  Tires  from  auto 
graveyards,  railroad  ties  lugged  from 
abandoned  tracks,  bricks  from  fallen 
houses  are  part  of  the  gardening  landscape. 
Marina  La  Pinia  garners  seeds  on  yearly 
trips  to  the  Philippines.  Tomasita  Romero’s 
prize  Spanish  pumpkin  grew  from  the 
seeds  of  one  she  bought  in  a Korean 
market.  Blanche  Epps’  precious  heritage 
seeds  —okra,  kale,  Swiss  chard  — come 
from  her  South  Carolina  grandmother. 

As  judges  spread  out  across  the  city  on 
the  hottest  days  of  summer  they  are  wel- 
comed with  generosity  and  warmth.  Al- 
though contestants  are  warned  in  advance 
that  judges  have  tight  schedules,  gardeners 
are  not  easily  restrained.  Iced  beverages 
flow  and  cookies  abound.  Down-home 
cooking  is  dished  up  in  sitting  gardens, 
homemade  wine  is  tasted  under  grape 


arbors,  vegetable  harvests  are  shared. 
Every  year,  Narducci  gets  calls  from  judges 
asking  her  to  find  the  recipe  for  a particular 
cake  served  by  one  or  another  gardener. 

Judges  are  gardeners,  too,  and  many  go 
bearing  gifts  of  seeds  and  cuttings.  One 
personalizes  the  participant  certificates  by 
hand-painting  them.  A bee-keeping  judge 
takes  jars  of  honey. 

awards  night 

In  September,  winners  and  judges  are 
invited  to  reunite  at  the  Port  of  History 
Museum  for  Awards  Night,  a gala  reception 
where  cash  prizes,  seed  company  gift  cer- 
tificates, Flower  Show  tickets  and  PHS 
memberships  are  presented  to  winners.  A 
letter  from  a winner  “tells  it  like  it  is”: 

“I  attended  the  Contest  awards  last 
evening.  Had  the  presentation  lasted  a few 
minutes  more  I was  certain  that  the  roof  of 
the  auditorium  was  about  to  lift  off  from 
the  good  vibrations.  My  palms  are  raw 
from  clapping  and  my  face  hurts  from 
smiling.  I cannot  wait  until  next  year! ...  All 
of  Philadelphia  was  represented.  All  shar- 
ing one  common  bond  — the  love  of 
gardening.  When  I received  the  phone  call 
that  I was  a finalist,  that  was  recognition 
enough.  But  when  my  name  was  announced 
as  the  2nd  prize  winner  of  the  Small  Flower 
Garden  division,  you  would  have  thought 
that  I won  the  lottery.” 

Recognition  for  gardening  is  not  neces- 
sary, but  it  is  gratifying.  Five  years  ago,  my 
friend.  Iris  Brown,  and  her  children  cleared 
the  empty  lot  between  their  rowhouse  and 
the  next,  painted  a rainbow  mural,  hung  a 
hammock  and  planted  a garden.  Every- 


thing grew  like  Jack’s  beanstalk  — vege- 
tables, flowers  — so  that  first  year  Iris 
entered  the  contest  and  won  a first  place.  “I 
was  so  pleased.  You  see  your  own  garden 
every  day  and  you  feel  happy  with  it  but 
winning  is  telling  you  that  other  people 
think  it’s  wonderful  too,  and  that  is  very 
nice.” 

Judges  share  this  feeling  of  satisfaction 
when  a garden  they  select  as  a finalist 
comes  up  a winner,  deemed  worthy  by 
another  team.  On  my  first  round  of  visits 
last  summer  I found  myself  judging  gardens 
for  the  Greenest  Block  In  Town  in  the 
Johnson  Homes  Housing  Development. 
Five  months  before,  on  a bitter  day,  I had 
joined  Philadelphia  Green  staff  members 
and  prospective  Johnson  Homes  gardeners 
to  survey  garden  sites  and  dream  up  gar- 
dens on  paper.  Now,  on  a sunny  June  day, 
those  paper  designs  were  reality.  Barrels  of 
blossoms  and  rows  of  eggplants  and  toma- 
toes had  taken  over  the  bleak  spaces  I 
remembered. 

I had  such  a bias  towards  this  miraculous 
transformation  that  I doubted  my  ability  to 
judge  objectively.  I said  nothing  as  my 
teammates  scored  and  wrote  comments: 
“Tremendously  successful!”  “A  place  of 
beauty.”  One  judge,  whose  garden  flour- 
ishes in  an  equally  challenging  spot  in 
another  part  of  North  Philadelphia,  wrote: 
“It  is  a thoroughfare  in  a housing  project. 
To  plant  a garden  in  this  spot  takes  a lot  of 
courage.  Its  success  shows  that  neighbors 
respect  the  effort.”  The  numerical  scores 
were  high  an  the  recommendation  for  final 
judging  unanimous.  On  Awards  Night,  the 
Johnson  Greenest  Block  In  Town  entries 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


tied  for  3rd  place. 

The  high  point  of  the  1988  Awards 
ceremony  came  halfway  through  the  even- 
ing. First,  2nd  and  3rd  place  awards  had 
been  presented  to  Children's  Gardens, 
Garden  Blocks,  The  Greenest  Block  In 
Town  and  Individual  Flower  Gardens  in 
four  sizes.  Awards  of  Excellence  had  been 
distributed  to  gardeners  who  had  won  First 
place  for  three  consecutive  years,  and  the 
Super  Senior  Citizen  Award  had  been  won 
by  94-year-old  gardener,  Albert  Brown. 

It  was  time  for  Honorary  co-chairpersons 
Herb  Clarke  and  Diane  Allen  to  honor 
Community  Flower/Sitting  Gardens.  Six 
awards  for  small,  six  for  mid-size,  and  then, 
for  large  — two  3rds,  two  2nds  and  two 
lsts:  Stapeley  in  Germantown  and  Mary 
Walke  and  Neighbors. 

At  this  announcement,  from  a seat  near 
the  stage,  Mary  Walke  sprang  to  her  feet, 
turned  to  the  audience,  raised  her  arms  in 
exultation  and  shouted  with  glee.  She  may 
not  have  exclaimed  “Halleluja!”  but  I seem 
to  have  heard  it.  Mary  Walke  is  an 
imposing,  radiant  woman  under  every  cir- 
cumstance. That  night  she  was  dazzling  as 
she  danced  to  the  stage,  embracing  every- 
one in  sight,  cheered  on  by  a happy  crowd 
gone  wild  with  the  contagion  of  her  joy. 

Mary  Walke's  garden  story  is  the  tale  of 
just  one  of  the  multiplying  miracles  being 
performed  through  perseverance  and  hard 
work.  The  triangular-shaped  garden  for 
which  she  has  been  the  driving  force  is  a 
sunny,  treeless  spot  in  North  Philadelphia. 
“I  picked  cotton  where  I grew  up.  I never 
did  gardening.  But  I kept  looking  at  that 
ugly  lot  across  the  street  and  it  got  on  my 
nerves.  It  was  a terrible  dump  site.  Bags  of 
trash  and  truckloads  of  cement  from  con- 
struction. Dead  dogs  and  seafood.  This 
man  had  a seafood  restaurant  and  dumped 
his  crabs  and  stuff.  Lord,  did  it  stink!” 

So  Walke  started  “bugging”  her  City 
Councilperson  who  referred  her  to  Phila- 
delphia Green  where  staffers  provided  sod, 
fencing,  seeds,  substantial  design  advice  as 
well  as  trees,  shrubs  and  plants  to  start  the 
garden.  She  rang  doorbells  and  got  help 
clearing  trash.  “We  served  lemonade  and 
even  the  trash  collectors  joined  in.  The 
drug  addicts  rolled  wheelbarrows  for  us 
and  the  neighborhood  prostitutes  came  by 
to  say  how  beautiful  it  was.  Before  you 
knew  it,  the  space  was  clean,  the  fence  up, 
flowers  planted  and  everyone  oooohed  and 
aaahed:  'We  did  it!’  And  I said,  'if  we  did  it, 
everybody  can.  And  if  everybody  does  it, 
our  city  will  shine  again!’  ” 

In  1987,  they  entered  the  Contest  and 
were  one  of  five  3rd  place  winners  in  a 
special  category  for  First  Year  Gardens. 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


Participate  in  Philadelphia 's 
City  Garden  Contest 
as  a contestant , a judge, 
or  both. 

For  more  information  contact: 
Flossie  Narducci 

The  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
325  Walnut  Street 
Philadelphia,  PA  19106 
(215)  625-8280 


Their  judges,  distressed  that  this  shadeless 
beauty  spot  was  too  hot  to  enjoy,  got  a 
Paoli  shop  to  install  a giant  canvas  umbrella. 

In  1 988,  they  entered  the  Contest  again. 
“I  knew  this  time  we’d  be  competing  with 
all  those  people  who  been  growing  for 
years  and  they’re  going  to  win,”  says 
Walke.  “When  we  got  the  invitation  to 
Awards  Night,  we  knew  we’d  won  some- 
thing. But  first  place?  We  never  dreamed 
that.  So,  when  I heard  my  name  I screamed!" 

Mary  Walke  does  a lot  of  things  besides 
gardening.  She  sews  for  a living.  She  is 
bringing  up  two  boys  left  to  her  care.  She 
organizes  a neighborhood  food  program 
out  of  her  house  that  feeds  60-90  people  a 
week,  and  she  serves  as  block  captain, 
trustee  and  choir  director  of  her  church, 
and  president  of  several  community  or- 
ganizations. 

“I’ve  always  worked  hard,”  says  Walke. 
“In  school  I worked  to  be  first  and  get  a 
good  report  card.  But  I never  won  anything. 
Nobody  ever  awarded  me  anything  before." 

After  the  contest,  when  Mary  Walke  and 
her  friends  approached  their  block,  “We 
stuck  our  heads  out  the  car  window  and 
yelled:  'We  won  1st  prize!  We  won  1st 
prize!’  over  and  over  again.  And  people  in 
our  neighborhood  called  back:  'Oh,  shut 
up,  we  knew  you  would!’  and  then  people 
came  to  drink  tea  and  eat  cookies  and  it 
was  like  coming  home  with  the  best  report 
card  ever.” 

All  urban  gardens  are  not,  of  course,  a 
takeover  of  trashed  lots.  The  gardeners  at 
Stapeley-in-Germantown,  a Quaker  retire- 
ment home,  who  tied  with  Mary  Walke  and 
Neighbors,  had  no  trash  to  remove  from 


their  landscaped  grounds  and  no  need  for  a 
canvas  umbrella  beneath  their  stately  trees. 
But  they  are  justifiably  proud  of  the  recog- 
nition they  received  for  working  together 
on  plantings  and  sitting  places  that  bring 
beauty  and  pleasure  to  the  whole  com- 
munity. 

judges’  comments 

A sampling  of  judges’  comments  from 
last  year’s  Contest  reflects  the  multitude  of 
styles  of  city  gardeners  and  gardens: 

“The  climb  up  the  ladder  took  us  to  a 
delightful  rooftop  garden  and  bird’s  eye 
view  of  the  city.” 

“A  garden  that  integrates  the  family’s 
needs,  well-designed  for  child  use:  explor- 
ing nature,  growing  fruit,  and  a wonderful 
pond  with  flowering  lilies  and  water 
hyacinths.” 

“A  three-story-high  mural  with  hot  air 
balloons  drifting  across  a bright  blue  sky 
most  definitely  lifted  our  spirits.” 
“Forty-one  rose  bushes  — all  in  full 
bloom.  Sorry  we  weren’t  around  to  see  the 
750  tulips  in  the  spring.” 

“The  fountain  adds  a visual  as  well  as  an 
audible  effect.” 

For  a winner  in  Garden  Blocks:  “Every 
house  (and  there  are  70  of  them  in  the 
block)  participates.  And  every  planter  is 
flourishing.  Fantastic  cooperation.  The 
youngsters  do  the  watering.” 

And  finally,  describing  the  3.67-acre 
urban  farm  smack  up  against  the  railroad 
tracks  at  1 8th  and  Glenwood:  “On  a bright 
sunny  day  we  were  welcomed  by  four  acres 
of  waving  flags,  fluttering  over  96  garden 
plots.  James  Taylor,  garden  coordinator, 
should  be  called  'Mr.  Organization.’  He 
tends  his  own  plots  and  maintains  the  paths 
(miles  and  miles  of  them).  Congratulations 
to  all  96  gardeners  on  a super  job!” 

As  slides  of  the  prize-winning  gardens 
were  flashed  on  the  giant  screen  at  last 
year’s  presentation,  Herb  Clarke  queried: 
“How  can  any  one  of  you  look  at  these  and 
not  see  you’ve  made  a difference  in  Phila- 
delphia?” 

The  competition  of  the  City  Gardens 
Contest  is  anything  but  cutthroat.  Every- 
one roots  for  everyone  and  rejoices  with  the 
winners.  It  is  as  though  we  are  a big, 
talented  family  in  which  every  member  is  a 
star.  We  can  all  applaud  the  winner  of  the 
moment,  knowing  we  are  winners,  too. 

• 

PHS  Council  member  Natalie  Kempner  will 
chair  the  PHS  Junior  Flower  Show.  Natalie 
Kempner  is  founder  of  the  Norris  Square  Project 
in  West  Kensington.  She  is  a writer  who  fre- 
quently contributes  to  Green  Scene. 


15 


{J0 , m 

'Xk-'JSS* 


Keep  growth  rate  slow  in  late  spring  and  summer.  Plants  and 
lawns  can  withstand  drought  if  they  are  not  overfertilized  or 
overwatered  at  the  beginning,  so  they  grow  slowly  and  evenly. 
Liquid  organic  fertilizers  are  easier  for  plants  to  absorb 
under  drought  conditions  than  are  chemical  fertilizers.  If 
using  organic  granules  for  fertilizers,  be  sure  to  bury  them 
down  far  enough  so  they  don 't  release  too  soon  in  the  summer 
heat. 


✓///A*  . 


v? ; 


Add  compost  or  other  organic  material  to  soil  to 
help  it  absorb  water  for  maximum  efficiency.  To 
prevent  puddling,  cultivate  the  soil  around  plants 
before  watering. 


Use  drip  irrigation  if  possible.  Cover  hoses  with  straw,  salt 
hay,  chopped  leaves,  shredded  newspaper  or  other  mulch  to 
discourage  weeds  and  prevent  evaporation.  Or  dig  trenches 
around  plants,  dig  a connecting  link  between  each  basin, 
then  water  only  in  the  basins.  Avoid  oscillating  sprinklers, 
where  30  to  50  percent  of  the  water  is  lost  to  evaporation. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


r 


>**■*> 


wmi 


Think  twice  before  you  cut  down  a tree.  The  leaves  absorb 
CO 2 to  help  counteract  the  greenhouse  effect,  and  they  keep 
the  area  cooler  so  plants  and  people  don 't  parch  as  quickly  as 
in  full  sun. 


Select  low  water  usage  plants.  Native  trees  and  shrubs, 
meadow  wildflowers  and  southern  crops  tend  to  be  less 
drought-sensitive  than  exotic  ornamentals.  Consider  Xeri- 
scaping,  a landscaping  system  that  blends  water  conserva- 
tion with  native  elements.  For  more  information  about 
Xeriscaping  see  ‘Organic  Gardening,'  Nov.  1988;  or  contact 
Ms.  Heather  Hidalgo,  National  Xeriscape  Council,  Inc.,  940 
East  51st  Street,  Austin,  TX  78751-2241  (Phone:  512- 
Zi  454-8626). 


I 


Je,  <L 

co>  \ 


A rain  gauge  eliminates  guessing  j yj]/ 
how  much  has  fallen  AND  tells  L ' 
when  you've  watered  enough  ...  It, 
no  more  than  one  inch  per  week 
needed  for  lawns  or  established  pyyc,  . \ a ,/  * 
gardens. 


Container  gardening  is  a 
great  way  to  focus  water 
needs.  Vegetables  and 
flowers  in  pots  receive 
efficient,  not  random 

irrigation.  Seed  catalogs 

(_J  \L^ 

indicate  which  varieties 

li 

grow  best  in  pots.  Use 

glazed  or  plastic  contain- 

ers  in  place  of  porous  clay 

pots  that  absorb  moisture. 
Black  containers  hold  the 

JjEi/ 

sun’s  warmth  and  help 

f-  M/, 

many  plants  develop  faster 

than  they  would  in  the 
ground. 

.ft 


Anne  S.  Cunningham  is  a frequent  contributor 
to  Green  Scene  and  the  Philadelphia  Inquirer. 

' 

" 280 


17 


Use  hoses  with  shut-off  nozzles  to  prevent  wasting  water 
while  walking  between  plants  to  be  watered.  At  the  spigot 
end,  install  a timer  to  prevent  overwatering  if  the  hose  is  left 
on  for  a once-a-week  soaking. 


illustration  by  Karel  Hayes 


An  %)ld  Idea  Whose  Time  has  Come  - Again 

(^)  By  NaftPy  L.  Boettger 


IT 

w 

Cottage  gardening  is  gentle,  open- 
minded,  creature-friendly  garden- 
ing; it  is  easy,  low-maintenance 
gardening.  It  is  the  perfect  cure  for  the 
feeling  of  being  pushed  and  pulled  by  too 
many  responsibilities,  and  by  the  frustra- 
tions, limitations,  and  irritations  of  the 
workplace. 

You  come  home  to  a little  world  of  your 
own  making,  a peaceful,  relaxed  word.  A 
little  overgrown  and  untidy  perhaps,  but  it 
is  this  very  untidiness,  the  tangle  and 
profusion  of  growth  that  invites  the  birds, 
bees,  butterflies  and  occasional  praying 
mantis,  making  your  garden  doubly  satisfy- 
ing, because  you  are  working  in  harmony 


with  Nature,  rather  than  poisoning  your 
environment  competing  for  the  neatest 
lawn  on  the  block. 

Remember:  Nature  is  not  neat  and  never 
plants  things  in  straight  rows.  Her  wild- 
flowers  tend  to  grow  in  clumps  or  drifts  of 
one  kind  with  other  clumps  of  the  same 
kind  nearby.  Rarely  does  a single  flower 
appear  on  its  own,  and  when  it  does,  if 
conditions  are  suitable,  more  will  soon 
appear. 

Abundance  is  the  key.  Nature  provides 
an  abundance  of  plants  for  every  inch  of 
earth,  given  the  least  opportunity.  Nature 
abhors  a vacuum  and  gives  plants  the 
ability  to  over-reproduce  to  ensure  that  no 


fertile  piece  of  earth  remains  bare  for  long. 
Like  Nature,  cottage  gardeners  usually  try 
to  cram  as  many  different  kinds  of  plants  in 
as  large  amounts  as  possible  into  the 
available  space. 

This  colorful,  overflowing,  and  riotously 
profuse  style  of  gardening  known  as  cottage 
gardening  is  most  often  associated  with 
England.  Given  their  mild  climate  and 
rainfall  provided  more  or  less  evenly 
throughout  year,  the  English  people  have 
been  gardening  enthusiastically  for  cen- 
turies. It  is  their  national  pastime.  While  the 
great  estate  gardens  of  England  tended  to 
follow  international  gardening  styles, 
trends,  and  fads,  over  the  years  the  humble 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


◄ Nancy  Boettger’s  completely  naturalized 
cottage  garden  in  front  of  her  antique  shop 
features  old-fashioned  hollyhock,  purple 
loosestrife,  wild  daylily,  lovage  in  flower  and 
common  chicory. 


▼ Several  years  ago  at  her  former  home,  the 
author  found  the  iris  in  the  front  border  in  a 
bag  of  leaves  set  out  for  the  trash  collector. 
Although  a short  yellow  variety  when  planted, 
it  came  up  the  following  year  as  a lovely  tall 
mauve  specimen,  which  soon  spread  into  a 
whole  colony.  Subsequently  she  moved  it  to 
the  front  of  the  antique  shop. 


cottage  gardeners  stayed  with  their  old- 
fashioned  jumble  of  easy-to-grow  peren- 
nials, biennials,  self-sowing  annuals,  hardy 
bulbs,  shrub  roses,  and  useful  herbs.  This 
was  undoubtedly  because  they  had  neither 
time,  space  (or  money)  for  French  parterres, 
Italian  vistas,  or  Victorian  carpet  bedding. 

It  was  from  these  ancient  English  cottage 
gardens  that  William  Robinson  and 
Gertrude  Jekyll  derived,  just  about  100 
years  ago,  the  more  naturalistic  “perennial 
border”  based  primarily  on  hardy  perenni- 
als blooming  in  succession,  as  a reaction  to 
the  more  rigid  earlier  Victorian  type  of 
garden  where  endless  flats  of  tender 
annuals  were  set  out  by  hordes  of  hired 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


gardeners  into  elaborate  designs  in  formal 
beds,  thus  the  term  “bedding  annuals.” 
These  gardens  were  impressive  but  labor- 
intensive. 

That  is  why  in  this  busy  age  it  is  time 
again  for  the  old-fashioned  “cottage 
garden.”  A garden  designed,  largely  in- 
stalled, and  completely  maintained  by  the 
gardener,  for  pure  enjoyment  rather  than 
impressing  the  neighbors. 

what  will  happen  next 

By  now  you  should  know  whether  or  not 
you  are  a cottage  gardener  in  your  heart. 
Either  you  like  the  feeling  of  being  in 
control  of  every  situation  you  encounter,  or 


you  prefer  the  feeling  of  not  quite  knowing 
what  will  happen  next.  You  enjoy  surprises. 
If  the  latter  description  fits  you,  read  on! 

You  may  have  come  to  realize  that  you 
have  been  a cottage  gardener  all  along,  and 
already  have  a gorgeous,  prolific  garden 
that  you  enjoy  just  the  way  it  is.  Good! 
Keep  doing  what  you’re  doing,  and  try  to 
convert  a few  neighbors  if  you  can.  Or  you 
may  have  decided  that  you  have  a cottage 
gardener  inside  of  you  just  bursting  to  get 
out  and  you  need  some  specific  ideas  to  get 
you  started.  Here  are  some  suggestions  for 
achieving  a mature-looking  cottage  garden 
in  a very  short  time  (if  you  can’t  stand  to 
wait). 

continued 


photo  b\  Marilyn  Stouffer 


Cottage  Gardening 


20 


Step  One:  Analyze  Your  Site.  Assume 
that  you  reside  in  a dwelling  of  some  sort 
(cottage  excellent  but  optional)  partially  or 
completely  surrounded  by  soil.  First  dig  up 
a spade  full  of  soil  on  the  south  or  east  side 
of  your  house,  which  is  the  most  desirable 
location  for  your  cottage  garden.  Notice 
whether  the  soil  is  dark,  crumbly,  and  full 
of  earthworms,  or  light-colored,  tightly 
packed,  and  slippery  when  wet.  This  latter 
type  of  soil,  clay  or  possibly  superclay,  is 
what  some  builders  of  new  houses  leave 
behind  after  they  have  sold  off  all  of  the 
topsoil.  In  this  case  you  will  have  to  dig  in 
lots  of  sand  and  organic  matter,  such  as 
peatmoss,  compost,  or  leaf  mold. 

Step  Two:  Prepare  Your  Soil.  Decide 
how  large  a space  you  can  comfortably 
deal  with,  then  outline  your  chosen  area 
with  a garden  hose,  to  make  the  outline 
curvy  rather  than  straight.  Remove  any 
existing  sod.  Dig  or  rototill  in  as  much  sand 
and  organic  matter  as  time  and  energy 
allow.  Even  good  soil  will  benefit  from  this. 

Step  Three:  Design  Your  Garden. 
Here’s  a crash  course  in  garden  design. 
Plant  tall  things  in  the  back,  medium  things 
in  the  middle,  and  short  things  in  the  front 
for  a garden  in  front  of  a building,  wall,  or 
fence,  meant  to  be  viewed  from  one  side. 
For  an  “island  bed,”  meant  to  be  viewed 
from  all  sides,  plant  tall  things  in  the 
middle,  medium  things  around  those,  and 
short  things  around  the  perimeter.  The  idea 
is  to  be  able  to  see  all  the  plants. 

It  is  best  to  group  three  or  more  plants  of 
one  kind  together  for  greater  impact,  and 
odd  numbers  seem  to  work  better  than 
even.  Shrubs  should  be  properly  spaced  as 
recommended  by  experts,  but  perennials, 
biennials,  and  annuals  can  be  squeezed 
much  closer  than  recommended,  to  give 
your  garden  an  established  look.  When  it 
becomes  too  crowded  later,  you  can  dig  up, 
divide,  and  share  your  bounty  with  friends. 

As  far  as  color  is  concerned,  choose  what 
appeals  to  you.  If  you  like  bright  colors,  by 
all  means  plant  them.  Grey-green  or  blue- 
green  herbs  used  as  your  short  plants 
around  the  edges  will  soften  the  effect. 
Nature's  colors  rarely  “clash”  anyway.  It’s 
not  like  dressing  to  go  out.  A large  variety 
of  sizes  and  colors  are  available  to  suit  your 
particular  color  scheme  and  soil  conditions. 

Step  Four:  Finding  Plants:  This  is  where 
you  do  your  homework.  Study  garden 
books  and  visit  public  gardens,  with  a 
notebook  to  jot  down  botanical  names  of 
plants  that  appeal  to  you.  Find  an  older 


The  author’s  Bucks  County  home  is  called  Daisy  Hill,  for  the  wild  daisies  found 
growing  in  the  meadow  before  construction.  The  plants  here  were  chosen  for  mid- 
summer bloom.  They  thrive  without  fertilizers  or  herbicides,  providing  an  attractive 
habitat  for  toads,  butterflies,  insects  and  birds. 


East  side  of  "Daisy  Hill":  Coreopsis  lanceolata  (tickseed),  Gaillardia  (blanketflower), 
Anthemis  tinctoria  ‘E.C.  Buxton’  and  Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum  (ox-eye  daisy). 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


* 


photo  by  Marilyn  Stouffer  photo  by  Marilyn  Stouffer 


garden  in  your  neighborhood  and  see  what 
flourishes  there.  Once  you  have  an  idea  of 
what  you  want,  shop  local  garden  centers 
and  nurseries  and  ask  lots  of  questions.  Get 
to  know  the  botanical  names  to  make  sure 
you  get  exactly  what  you  want.  Garden 
catalogs  are  a great  source  of  information 
about  characteristics  and  requirements  of 
garden  plants. 

Step  Five:  Plant,  Mulch,  Water,  and 
Enjoy.  After  you  have  selected,  arranged, 
and  planted  your  precious  flower  treasures, 
cover  all  the  bare  earth  in  between  your 
plants  with  a mulch  of  pine  bark  or  similar 
material  to  prevent  Nature  from  filling  in 
with  plants  you  might  not  care  to  have.  As 
your  garden  flourishes,  you  may  be  able  to 
obtain  seedlings  from  your  original  plants. 
Once  you  learn  to  recognize  seedlings  of 
desirable  plants,  less  mulching  will  permit 
more  self-sowing,  and  your  weeding  will 
be  limited  to  the  nasty  Canada  thistle, 
poison  ivy,  bindweed,  and  the  like. 

After  planting,  water  your  garden  well, 
and  keep  it  moist  until  you  see  evidence  of 
new  growth.  Once  it  is  established,  you 
need  only  water  in  extreme  drought,  since 
the  organic  matter  in  the  soil  and  in  the 
mulch  retains  water  like  a sponge.  A 
solution  of  seaweed  or  fish  emulsion,  used 
whenever  planting  or  transplanting,  is  a 
nice  bonus  for  your  plants  and  seems  to 
lessen  transplanting  shock. 

The  hard  work  is  all  done.  It’s  time  to 
step  back  and  admire  your  brand  new 
cottage  garden!  Now  all  you  ever  have  to 
do  is  divide  plants  to  share  or  trade  with 
friends,  try  out  new  varieties  that  you  find, 
and  rearrange  a little  here  and  there  to  try  a 
new  effect.  As  your  garden  becomes  taller, 
thicker  and  more  colorful,  you  will  notice 
more  and  more  varieties  of  butterflies, 
bees,  and  birds  coming  to  visit.  You  will 
have  an  abundance  of  flowers  to  bring  into 
your  house,  with  plenty  left  over  outside. 
And  with  each  passing  year,  your  garden 
will  get  fuller,  richer,  and  more  interesting. 
And  so  will  you. 

• 

Nancy  Lee  Willson  Boettger  has  been  cottage 
gardening  in  Bucks  County,  PA,  for  at  least  15 
years,  and  more  recently  has  been  publishing 
articles  and  giving  lectures  and  slide  shows 
urging  others  to  do  likewise.  Since  1983  she  has 
owned  and  operated  the  "Penn’s  Park  Country 
Store”  on  Rt.  232  in  Penns  Park,  PA,  where  the 
“Mad  Gardener™”  section  features  herbs, 
baskets,  wildflower  seeds,  garden  books,  and 
English  gardening  tools. 


AUTHOR’S  FAVORITE  PLANTS 

Chosen  for  hardiness,  ease  of  cultivation  and  proliferation, 
offering  the  most  flowers  for  the  least  expense 

SELF-SEEDING  PERENNIALS 

Thalictrum  aquilegifolium,  columbine  meadowrue.  Fluffy  mauve  flowers,  three-foot  stems; 
blooms  late  May  into  June. 

Hesperis  matronalis,  sweet  rocket.  Lavender  or  white  flowers,  some  pinkish,  three-foot  stems; 
blooms  late  May  into  June,  smells  sweet  in  the  evening. 

Malva  alceafastigiata , hollyhock  mallow.  Soft  pink  flowers,  three-  to  four-foot  stems;  blooms 
July  to  October. 

Coreopsis  lanceolata,  tickseed.  Golden  yellow  “daisies,”  two-foot  stems;  blooms  June  through 
September. 

Heliopsis  helianihoides  scabra.  Yellow-gold  double  “daisies,”  three-  to  four-foot  stems; 
blooms  July  to  frost. 

Lythrum  salicaria , purple  loosestrife.  Reddish-purple  spikes,  three-  to  five-feet  tall;  blooms 
July  to  September. 

Rudbeckia  triloba.  Small  “black-eyed-susan”  flowers  on  five-  to  six-foot  plant;  blooms  July 
until  September. 

Aster  novae-angliae , New  England  aster.  Purple  “daisy”  flower,  sometimes  pink,  yellow 
center,  five  feet  or  taller  unless  pinched  back;  blooms  September  to  frost. 

Rudbeckia  nitida.  Single  yellow  coneflower,  up  to  eight  feet;  blooms  August  and  September. 

OTHER  PERENNIALS 

Hemerocallis  fulva , common  roadside  daylily.  Virtually  indestructible,  orange  flowers, 
attractive  foliage  all  season;  blooms  late  June  and  July. 

Monarda  didyma,  bee  balm.  Pink,  white,  lavender  or  red,  attracts  hummingbirds;  blooms  June 
to  August. 

Physostegia  virginiana,  obedient  plant.  Rose-pink  spikes,  one-  to  four-foot  tall  square  stems; 
blooms  July  to  September. 

Rudbeckia  laciniata , golden  glow.  Very  double  yellow  flowers,  five  feet  or  taller;  blooms  July 
to  September. 

SELF-SEEDING  BIENNIALS 

Alcea  rosea,  hollyhocks.  Most  colors  except  blue,  two-  to  nine-feet  tall;  prefer  single  blossoms. 

Lychnis  coronaria , rose  campion.  Brilliant  magenta  flowers,  silver  stems  and  leaves,  two-feet 
tall. 

Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum,  common  ox-eye  daisy.  Two-feet  tall;  blooms  late  May  into 
June. 

SELF-SEEDING  HERBS 

Allium  schoenoprasum,  chives.  Twelve-inches  high,  lavender  flowers;  blooms  around  June  if 
not  harvested. 

Allium  tuberosum,  garlic  chives,  two-feet  high,  white  star-shaped  flowers  in  July. 

Chrysanthemum  parthenium,  feverfew.  Twelve-  to  fifteen-inches  tall,  tiny  "daisy”  flowers: 
blooms  July  and  August. 

Artemisia  annua,  Sweet  Annie.  Tiny  greenish-yellow  flowers;  four-  to  five-foot  ferny  plant, 
dries  well,  smells  sweet. 

Borago  officinalis.  Borage.  Up  to  three-feet  tall,  bristly  leaves,  drooping  star-shaped  flowers; 
first  crop  late  spring,  self-sown  second  crop  late  summer. 

SELF-SEEDING  ANNUALS 

Eschscholzia  californica,  California  poppy.  Shades  of  orange,  twelve-  to  fifteen-inches  high, 
attractive  blue-grey-green  foliage;  first  crop  late  spring,  self-sown  second  crop  late  summer 
into  fall. 

Centaurea  cyanus,  bachelor’s  buttons.  One-  to  three-feet  tall;  “cornflower  blue,”  also  white, 
pink  or  purple;  blooms  late  April  into  July  from  self-sowing  in  late  summer. 

Cosmos  bipinnatus.  Pink,  magenta,  white,  lavender,  up  to  four-foot  tall  lacy  plant;  blooms 
mid-summer  to  frost. 

Cleome hasslerana,  spider  flower.  Three-  to  six-feet,  pink,  white  or  lavender;  self-sown  plants 
revert  in  time  to  all  white. 


21 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


Tiger  swallowtail  butterfly 
feeds  on  Verbena 
‘Sissinghurst’  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Scott 
Arboretum  offices. 


22 


GARDENING  FOR  BUTTERFLIES 


Some  of  my  best  childhood  memories 
are  of  hot  summer  mornings  when  1 
would  saddle  up  my  horse,  grab 
my  butterfly  net,  and  ride  across  the  creek 
to  pursue  butterflies.  The  sunny  fringes  of 
farmers’  fields  were  prime  hunting  grounds, 
for  the  butterflies  would  feed  on  the  milk- 
weed, asters,  and  other  nectar-laden  weeds 
that  grew  there.  I no  longer  have  the 
stomach  or  the  desire  to  chloroform  mon- 
archs  and  mourning  cloaks  to  pin  in  my 
collections;  too  few  of  these  marvelous 
creatures  are  left  in  the  United  States. 
Butterflies  are  some  of  our  most  beautiful 
and  industrious  plant  pollinators.  They 
lack  the  pollen  sacs  of  bees,  but  transfer 
pollen  on  their  bodies  while  searching  for 
nectar.  Unfortunately,  the  heavy  use  of 
pesticides  and  herbicides,  and  the  continu- 
ing destruction  of  natural  habitats  to  make 
room  for  highways,  housing  developments, 
and  shopping  malls  have  drastically  re- 
duced their  numbers.  More  and  more, 
butterflies  must  turn  to  federally  protected 
lands,  and  public  and  private  gardens  to 
s find  uncontaminated  feeding  and  breeding 
%■  grounds. 

tj  Plants  play  an  integral  role  in  the  egg, 
> larval,  pupal,  and  adult  stages  of  a butter- 
K fly’s  life.  The  adult  female  butterfly  lays  her 
eggs  in  a sheltered  spot  on  or  near  the  plant 
on  which  the  emerging  caterpillars  will 
feed.  Caterpillars  eat  only  the  leaves  and 


Red  admiral  butterfly  finds  a spire  of  Buddleia  davidii  'White  Cloud’  still 
blooming  in  late  October  at  Ridley  Creek  State  Park. 


(^)  By  Elizabeth  F.  Sullivan 


Butterflies: 
beautiful , yes; 
beneficial,  yes . 
These  vanishing 
pollinators 
need  all  the 
help  they  can 
get  from 
gardeners . 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


stems  of  plants  specific  to  their  species. 
They  will  starve  to  death  rather  than  eat  a 
nonspecific  plant.  During  the  larval  stage 
they  moult  four  or  five  times,  with  each 
new  skin  covering  a larger  caterpillar.  The 
final  moult  prefaces  the  pupal  stage.  Dur- 
ing this  stage,  the  pupa  is  completely 
inactive.  Some  spin  a silk  cocoon  for 
shelter;  others  tie  themselves  with  a silk 
cord  to  a twig  or  leaf.  After  a waiting 
period  lasting  from  two  weeks  to  all  winter, 
the  adult  butterfly  emerges  from  the  pupal 
case.  It  hangs  upside  down,  forcing  blood 
into  the  wrinkled  new  wings.  When  its 
wings  are  dry,  the  butterfly  takes  off  in 
search  of  its  first  flower  nectar. 

Every  garden  can  attract  butterflies  given 
sun,  nearby  drinking  water,  limited  use  of 
pesticides  and  herbicides,  and  both  cater- 
pillar and  adult  butterfly  food  plants.  Being 
cold-blooded,  butterflies  rely  on  the  sun  to 
maintain  their  bodies  at  operating  temper- 
ature. In  the  northeastern  United  States 
they  do  not  appear  until  late  spring  or  early 
summer  when  they  can  be  assured  of 
consistently  warm  temperatures.  Flagstone 
benches  and  sidewalks,  and  gravel  paths 
are  frequently  butterfly  beaches  where  they 
bask  in  the  sun.  Butterflies  like  mud  puddles 
and  wet  stream  banks  for  watering  holes.  If 
you  do  not  have  such  areas  in  or  near  your 
garden,  sink  a bucket  of  sand  or  dirt  and 
keep  it  wet  to  provide  a permanent  butterfly 
bath. 


Caterpillars  eat  only  the  leaves  and 
stems  of  plants  specific  to  their  species. 
They  will  starve  to  death  rather  than 
eat  a nonspecific  plant. 


Your  garden  may  already  have  cater- 
pillar food  plants  (see  table).  The  green-, 
black-,  and  gold-banded  larvae  of  the 
beautiful  black  swallowtail  may  have  nib- 
bled your  rue  and  parsley  plants  in  the  past, 
or  the  black-,  white-,  and  yellow-striped 
larvae  of  the  regal  monarch  butterfly 
perhaps  fed  on  the  milkweed  growing  wild 
at  the  edge  of  your  land.  Many  caterpillar 
food  plants  are  considered  weeds.  If  you 
are  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a naturalized 
meadow  or  open  woods,  you  may  easily 
accommodate  these  plants  without  trying 
to  include  them  in  your  more  formal  gar- 
dens. Do  not  fear  that  caterpillars  will 
devour  your  plants.  Most  butterfly  cater- 
pillars are  too  small  and  too  few  in  number 
to  do  significant  damage.  Two  exceptions 
are  the  larvae  of  the  notorious  cabbage 
butterfly  and  the  black  swallowtail.  Black 
swallowtail  caterpillars  feed  on  umbelli- 
ferous plants  (family  of  plants  that  include 
carrots,  dill  and  parsley).  While  they  usually 
manage  to  curb  their  voracious  appetites, 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


Jane  Pepper,  PHS  president  reports  these 
audacious  creatures  devoured  her  parsley 
plants. 

Caterpillar  food  plants  are  an  essential 
part  of  gardening  for  butterflies,  but  the 
adult  butterfly  food  plants  give  the  most 
aesthetic  pleasure.  They  are  beautiful  in 
their  own  right,  as  are  the  butterflies  that 
feed  on  their  nectar.  There  are,  of  course, 
many  more  butterfly-attracting  plants  than 
those  described  here.  If  you  would  like 
more  information  about  plants  for  butter- 
flies or  want  to  see  gardens  devoted  exclu- 
sively to  these  insects,  visit  Ridley  Creek 


State  Park  in  Media,  Pennsylvania;  Brook- 
side  Gardens  in  Wheaton,  Maryland,  and  the 
Day  Butterfly  Center  at  Callaway  Gardens 
in  Pine  Mountain,  Georgia.  This  spring,  take 
stock  of  the  food  supply  your  garden  offers 
its  caterpillar  and  butterfly  guests.  Butter- 
flies’ precarious  position  in  today’s  envi- 
ronment and  the  intrinsic  landscape  value  of 
butterfly-attracting  plants  are  both  excellent 
reasons  to  garden  for  butterflies.  But  their 
exquisite,  irridescent  beauty  is  the  most 
persuasive  incentive.  To  echo  Emerson:  “ . . . 
if  eyes  were  made  for  seeing,  / Then  beauty 
is  its  own  excuse  for  being.” 


CATERPILLAR  FOOD  PLANTS 

Food  plants  for  the  larvae  of  several  common  American  butterflies. 


BUTTERFLY 

PLANTS 

black  swallowtail 

Daucus  carota  var.  carota , wild  carrot 
Petroselinum  crispum,  parsley 
Apium  graveolens  var.  duke , celery 

spicebush  swallowtail 

Linderu  benzoin , spicebush 

Sassafras  albidum , sassafras 

Magnolia  virginiana , sweet  bay  magnolia 

eastern  tiger  swallowtail 

Liriodendron  tulipifera,  tulip  tree 
Prunus  serotina,  black  cherry 

comma 

Urtica  dioica , stinging  nettle 

viceroy 

SalLx  species,  willows 
Populus  species,  poplars 

monarch 

Asclepias  syriaca.  common  milkweed 

great  spangled  fritillary 

Viola  species,  violets 

Baltimore  checkerspot 

Chelone  glabra,  turtlehead 

painted  lady 

Cirsium  an'ense,  Canada  thistle 
Cirsium  vulgare.  bull  thistle 

American  copper 

Rume.x  acetosella,  sheep  sorrel 

buckeye 

Plantago  major,  plaintain 
Agalinis  purpurea,  purple  gerardia 

question  mark 

Ulmus  species,  elms 

mourning  cloak 

Uhnus  species,  elms 
SalLx  species,  willows 
Populus  species,  poplars 

harvester 

Fagus  grandifolia,  American  beech 
Hamamelis  virginiana,  common  witchhazel 

red-spotted  purple 

Prunus  serotina,  black  cherry 

red  admiral 

Urtica  dioica,  stinging  nettle 

23 


continued 


photo  by  Pat  Abel 


BUTTERFLY  FOOD  PLANTS 


These  shrubs,  perennials,  and  annuals 
were  selected  for  their  proven  ability  to 
attract  butterflies. 

Buddleia  davidii,  butterfly  bush,  is  a 
superb  shrub  for  attracting  butterflies. 
From  mid-summer  through  October  these 
large  deciduous  shrubs  wave  fragrant  pani- 
cles of  pink,  purple,  or  white  flowers. 
Nurseries  offer  numerous  cultivars  of  B. 
davidii,  and  all  attract  throngs  of  butter- 
flies. The  white  cultivars  often  bloom 
longer  than  the  others,  providing  a last 
supper  before  the  butterflies  die  or  depart 
for  warmer  climates.  You  can  easily  grow 
butterfly  bushes  in  your  garden  if  you  have 
a reasonably  fertile  and  well-drained  soil, 
lots  of  sun,  and  adequate  space,  since  they 
grow  5 ’- 8’  in  one  season.  B.  davidii  blooms 
on  new  wood,  therefore  it  should  be  pruned 
back  to  1’  above  the  ground  between  late 
winter  and  early  spring  before  the  new 
growth  starts. 

Vitex  agnus-castus,  chaste  tree,  is  also  a 
butterfly  favorite.  The  fragrance  of  this 
large  deciduous  shrub  was  once  thought  to 
induce  chasteness  in  those  who  smelled  it, 
but  the  butterfly  couples  I have  seen  appar- 
ently do  not  subscribe  to  this  belief.  Spires 
of  light  blue  flowers  bloom  from  late  June 
through  September.  The  delicate  blue 
flowers  are  particularly  effective  against  a 
high  limestone  wall,  for  they  accentuate 
the  blue,  white,  and  grey  striations  of  the 
stone.  Like  the  butterflies  they  attract, 
chaste  trees  prefer  full  sun  and  hot  weather. 
In  a moist,  well-drained  soil,  they  can  grow 
3’-5’  in  one  season.  If  winter  damage  or 
dead  wood  makes  pruning  necessary,  you 
should  prune  in  the  spring,  cutting  back  to 
5’-8’,  or  in  the  case  of  older  shrubs,  cut 


back  to  live  wood. 

A delightful  surprise  in  late  August  and 
September  is  the  second  blooming  of 
Syringa  microphylla,  littleleaf  lilac.  It  first 
blooms  in  late  May,  but  its  deliciously 
fragrant  light  pink  flowers  frequently 
appear  again  in  the  summer  when  the 
butterflies  can  enjoy  them.  Not  all  littleleaf 
lilacs  bloom  twice,  so  if  buying  from  a 
nursery,  go  in  late  August  and  select  a 
shrub  in  flower.  S.  microphylla  ‘Superba’  is 
an  exceptionally  floriferous  cultivar.  Like 
all  lilacs,  S.  microphylla  prefers  full  sun  and 
slightly  acidic  soil,  and  should  be  pruned  in 
the  spring  after  flowering. 

The  delicate  white  and  pink  flowers  of 
Abelia  x grandiflora  lure  many  butterflies. 
The  small  flowers  first  open  in  June  and 
continue  to  bloom  after  the  first  frost.  Even 
after  the  flowers  have  fallen,  this  semi- 
evergreen shrub  is  still  lovely,  for  the  long 
pink  sepals  remain  on  the  stem.  A.  x 
grandiflora  flowers  on  the  new  growth  of 
the  season,  and  should  be  pruned  at  the 
same  time  as  Buddleia  davidii. 

Perennials  also  serve  a bountiful  feast  to 
butterflies.  The  most  obvious  choice  for  a 
perennial  nectar  provider  is  Asclepias 
tuberosa,  butterfly  weed.  This  sun- loving 
plant  tolerates  abuse,  thriving  in  infertile, 
dry  soils.  Butterfly  weed  is  an  ideal  choice 
for  a summer-blooming  meadow  garden. 
Clusters  of  bright  orange  flowers  bloom 
from  early  summer  until  fall  on  l’-3’ 
plants.  Unlike  some  of  its  weedy  milkweed 
relatives,  A.  tuberosa  will  not  overrun  your 
garden,  but  does  have  the  same  beautiful 
seed  pods  that  burst  with  eiderdown  when 
ripe. 

Echinacea  purpurea,  purple  coneflower. 


is  a choice  perennial  among  butterflies.  A 
rather  coarse-textured  plant,  E purpurea 
has  a composite  flower  with  a golden 
brown  center  cone  surrounded  by  petals  of 
an  unusual  mauve  color.  Given  full  or 
partial  sun  and  well-drained  soil,  purple 
coneflowers  will  thrive  and  spread,  and 
should  be  divided  every  3-4  years. 

Sedum  ‘Autumn  Joy,’  a favorite  perennial 
for  many  gardeners,  is  also  a favorite  of 
many  butterflies.  The  broccoli-like  flowers 
emerge  pale  yellow  in  the  late  spring,  and 
turn  pink  in  July.  As  the  flowers  die  they 
gradually  deepen  to  a coppery  red,  which 
holds  through  the  winter.  Given  an  average 
soil  and  partial  or  full  sun,  this  sedum  will 
reward  you  with  flowers  of  long  interest 
and  numerous  butterfly  visitors. 

In  many  gardens,  the  blooming  of  Aster 
novae-angliae  heralds  autumn’s  arrival. 
The  4’  plants  with  masses  of  small  purple- 
fringed  flowers  with  golden  centers  bloom 
vigorously  until  frost  and  provide  food  for 
butterflies  after  many  other  sources  of 
nectar  have  faded.  New  England  asters  will 
thrive  in  full  sun  and  moist  soil.  Staking  is 
almost  unavoidable  with  these  tall  plants, 
but  pinching  them  back  in  the  early  summer 
will  help  control  their  growth  and  encour- 
age more  flower  buds. 

The  traditional  planting  of  annuals  to 
assure  color  in  the  garden  throughout  the 
seasons  also  assures  the  presence  of  butter- 
flies. Zinnias,  marigolds,  ageratum,  salvia 
and  verbena  are  all  good  choices.  The 
combination  of  the  vibrant  pink  Verbena 
‘Sissinghurst’  and  the  deep  blue  Salvia 
farinacea  proves  irresistible  to  butterflies, 
and  is  lovely  for  containers. 


Elizabeth  Sullivan  is  a horticulturist  at 
Chanticleer,  a private  estate  in  Wayne,  PA.  She 
has  written  for  the  Scott  Arboretum’s  newsletter 
Hybrid  and  American  Nurseryman. 


Clouded  yellow  sulfur 
butterfly  feasts  on  Aster 
novaeangliae  ‘September 
Ruby’  in  the  late  afternoon 
sunshine. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


CHINESE  EVERGREENS: 


War  Horses  of  the  Plant  World 


Drawing  by  Peter  Loewer 
from  Bringing  the  Outdoors  In, 
(reissued  by  Contemporary 
Books,  Chicago.  1988). 


of 


A self-watering  pot 
containing  a group 
foliage  plants  including 
three  Chinese  evergreens 
(Aglaonema). 

1 . Aglaonema  simplex 

2.  Aglaonema 
commutatum  ‘Malay’ 
Beauty’ 

3.  Aglaonema 
commutatum  var. 
elegans 

4.  Satin  pothos, 
Scindapsus  pictus 
‘Argyraeus’ 

5.  Devil’s  ivy, 
Epipremnum  aureum 


During  the  winter  of  1 977  a terrible 
sleet  storm  ravaged  the  Catskill 
Mountains  of  New  York  State 
where  I have  a home  and  garden.  Ice  built 
up  with  frightening  speed  on  the  electric 
lines,  especially  where  they  crossed  the 
country  roads.  The  lines  broke,  power  went 
out,  and  the  temperature  in  our  greenhouse, 
with  its  collection  of  orchids  and  house- 
plants,  soon  fell  below  freezing.  Among  the 
plants  that  perished  were  a number  of 
Chinese  evergreens,  originally  purchased 
for  research  on  a book  I was  writing  about 
growing  plants  in  water. 

One  Chinese  evergreen  that  survived  sat 
in  a hydroponic  setup  for  two  years  while  I 
wrote  the  book.  When  the  freeze  occurred 
four  years  later  the  plant  was  two-feet  high, 
comfortably  at  home  in  a glass  battery  jar, 
its  roots  growing  through  a submerged  pile 
of  glass  marbles.  I knew  then  that  these 
plants  were  war  horses  of  the  plant  world. 

The  years  passed  and  I never  thought 
about  Chinese  evergreens  again.  Then  one 
evening  last  spring  I received  a call  from  a 
friend  who  lived  in  New  York  City.  Richard 
Kirchner  is  the  director  of  National  Services 
for  the  Theater  Development  Fund  (TDF). 
He  was  also  the  producer  for  the  Shaw 
Festival  in  Canada  before  he  came  back 
across  the  border  to  once  again  take  up 
residence  in  the  Big  Apple. 

“Peter,”  he  said,  “Eve  decided  to  try  my 


continued 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


hand  at  houseplants,  and  I remember  that 
my  mother  always  had  a certain  kind  of 
plant  around  the  house  because  they  were 
so  carefree  and  tolerated  low  light.  She  had 
a big  plant  with  dark  green  leaves  on  a 
table  in  the  corner  of  our  living  room  — 
right  next  to  the  Mahjong  set.  And  believe 
me,  in  this  apartment  I have  low  light 
conditions.  Do  you  have  any  idea  of  the 
name?  I seem  to  recall  Japanese  or  Chinese 
connected  with  it.” 

"Chinese  evergreens,”  I answered. 

“That's  it.  Now  where  do  I find  them?” 

I gave  Richard  the  names  of  a few 
dealers  and  convinced  him  that  with  the 
services  of  United  Parcel,  anyone  could 
order  plants  from  around  the  country  and 
be  sure  that  they  would  arrive  in  decent 
shape. 

A few  weeks  later  Richard  called  to  say 
that  his  plants  had  been  delivered  and  they 
were  perfect. 

“1  ordered  seventeen  of  them,”  he  told 
me.  “ And  I also  picked  up  20  pounds  of 
potting  soil,  four  quarts  of  peat  moss,  some 
washed  and  sterilized  gravel,  and  20  clay 
pots.  It  took  me  hours  to  get  everything 
repotted  but  they  look  fine.” 

That  following  summer  I visited  New 
York  and  Richard  to  see  the  plants  and  to 
get  help  with  a word  processing  problem  I 
was  having.  Eight  floors  up  from  the  roar  of 
West  48th  Street  — in  a typical  one-room 
New  York  City  apartment  — the  Chinese 
evergreens  were  more  than  surviving.  They 
were  lined  up  near  the  windows  that  look 
out  on  back  courts  and  alleys,  windows 
perpetually  hazed  with  the  particulates  of 
city  air.  The  plants  share  the  limited  space 
with  a complete  computer  installation,  1 20 
application  programs,  and  about  1,500 
floppy  disks.  Seventeen  clay  pots:  each 
containing  a different  species  or  cultivar  of 
Aglaonema. 

“Finding  an  apartment  in  this  city,”  he 
said,  having  recently  returned  from  a work- 
ing stint  in  Australia,  “is  on  about  the  same 
level  as  searching  for  a vintage  wine  at  the 
corner  deli:  A tough  thing  to  do.  I looked 
for  weeks  before  finding  this  apartment;  it’s 
small  but  I have  just  enough  room  for  my 
computer  and  the  plants.” 

Like  Manhattanites,  these  plants  are 
tough. 

“No  lightweight,  tender,  mollycoddles 
here,”  said  Richard.  “This  group  of  plants 
will  survive  neglect  and  dark  corners.  They 
persist  where  other  and  often  nobler  plants 
eventually  perish.  I don’t  suggest  that  they 
should  be  treated  without  care.  Even  with 
air  conditioning,  dust  creeps  in  so  I wash 
the  leaves  every  two  weeks  and  fertilize 
once  a month  during  the  peak  growing 
season.” 

Among  the  plants  in  Richard’s  collection 


are:  the  old  war  horse,  Aglaonema 
modestum ; two  of  its  cultivars,  A.  ‘White 
Rajah,’  known  as  the  golden  evergreen 
with  leathery,  oblong  leaves  of  a deep 
green  with  silver-gray  markings  and  A. 
‘Variegatum,’  called  the  most  stunning 
form  of  the  common  Chinese  evergreen 
with  dark  green  leaves  splashed  with  mark- 
ings of  pure  ivory;  and  A.  ‘Dow  Hybrid,’  a 
hybrid  from  a Singapore  nursery  with  solid 
gray  and  silver  leaf  centers  with  scattered 
green  mottlings  in  a chevron  design. 

Richard  solved  my  computer  problem 
for  me,  and  as  we  left  for  lunch,  he  eyed  the 
plants  and  murmured,  “1  hope  they  don’t 
get  too  much  bigger;  I really  do  have  a 
problem  with  space.” 

more  about  Chinese  evergreens 

The  botanical  name  for  the  Chinese 
evergreen  is  Aglaonema  (ag-lay-o-Nee- 
ma)  from  aglaos,  bright  and  nema,  thread, 
perhaps  referring  to  the  shining  stamens  of 
the  flower.  I asked  everyone  who  knew 
anything  about  these  plants  about  the  deri- 
vation of  the  name  but  nobody  could  give 
me  a clue. 


The  common  name  of  Chinese  evergreen 
originated  with  Aglaonema  modestum. 
According  to  the  Aglaonema  Growers 
Notebook  (Roy  N.  Jervis,  Clearwater,  FL 
1 978-80),  this  particular  plant  has  been  in 
continual  cultivation  by  the  Chinese  for 
centuries  and  is  found  in  the  northern  part 
of  Thailand,  in  adjoining  Laos,  and  in  areas 
of  both  China  and  northern  Vietnam.  The 
book,  by  the  way,  is  now  out  of  print  but 
well  worth  searching  for.*  It  is  designed 
with  great  imagination,  is  well  illustrated, 
and  features  a fantastic  amount  of  infor- 
mation, both  lively  and  technical,  about 
these  plants. 

Roy  N.  Jervis  treats  19  species  and 
reminds  us  that  only  12  are  in  cultivation. 
Although  there  are  less  than  two  dozen 
botanically  valid  species,  varieties,  forms, 
and  cultivars  total  more  than  1 00  names  in 
use  today. 

Aglaonemas  belong  to  the  Araceae  or 
Arum  Family  of  plants.  They  are  herbs, 
climbers,  rarely  shrubs,  with  large  simple 
or  compound  leaves  and  a flower  that 


♦Available  at  the  PHS  Library. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


consists  of  a spathe  (a  modified  leaf)  that 
surrounds  a spadix,  a column  or  spike 
covered  with  numerous  small  flowers,  male 
on  the  top  of  the  column  and  female  at  the 
bottom.  The  fruit  is  in  ellipsoidal  berry,  in 
most  species  a bright,  clear  red,  and  con- 
tains one  seed.  Among  the  most  familiar 
members  of  this  family  are  the  calla  lily 
(Zantedeschia  aethiopica)  and  the  Jack-in- 
the-pulpit  (Arisaema  triphyllum). 

I called  John  Banta  of  the  International 
Aroid  Society  (IAS)  who  informed  me  that 
the  IAS  publishes  both  an  informative 
monthly  newsletter  and  a scholarly  quar- 
terly called  Aroideana  that  keeps  members 
up  to  date  on  developments  in  the  world  of 
Chinese  evergreens.  I asked  him  about  the 
common  name. 

Banta  told  me  that  Dr.  Frank  Brown,  a 
member  of  the  IAS  who  is  writing  a new 
book  for  the  society,  says,  “The  only  plant 
worthy  of  the  name  Chinese  evergreen  is 
Aglaonema  modestum  because  it’s  the  only 
truly  green  plant  and  the  only  one  found  in 
China.  Almost  all  the  people  of  Asia  own  at 
least  one  A.  modestum  because  the  plant  is 
thought  to  bring  good  luck.  And  in  the 
Philippines,  A.  commutatum  is  the  local 
species,  in  every  home  just  like  the  Chinese, 
and  called  la  suerte  for  good  luck. 

“But  green  isn’t  all.  There  are  rumblings 
in  the  world  of  Chinese  evergreens.  Breed- 
ers in  the  Far  East  have  been  busy  and  new 
cultivars  have  been  developed  that  have 
large  splashes  of  reds,  pinks,  and  oranges. 
Two  new  plants  are  called  ‘King  of  Siam’ 
and  ‘Queen  of  Siam’.” 

I asked  about  growing  new  plants  from 
seed. 

Banta  says,  “It’s  easy.  Clean  the  red  pulp 
from  the  outside  of  the  fruit  till  you  find  a 
large,  peanut-sized  green  seed.  Place  the 
seed  on  a bed  of  moist,  chopped  or  milled 
sphagnum  moss  or  any  clean  and  light 
friable  soil.  Keep  temperatures  about  65°F. 
Don’t  cover  the  seed  as  it  needs  light  for 
germination,  a process  that  averages  about 
three  weeks.  It  grows  slowly  at  first  with 
only  a little  green  tip  in  view,  but  eventually 
that’ll  become  one  leaf  about  the  size  of  a 
fingernail,  soon  followed  by  more.” 

“But,”  he  adds  excitedly,  “anyone  can 
try  hybridizing  and  the  amazing  thing 
about  aglaonemas  is  when  two  different 
plants  are  cross  pollinated,  the  resulting 
offspring  become  a combination  of  both 
the  parent’s  patterns:  They  tend  to  be 
cumulative,  one  superimposed  on  the 
other.” 

To  hybridize  take  the  pollen  from  a male 
flower  of  one  species  or  cultivar  and  collect 
it  in  a small  piece  of  aluminum  foil.  Then 
tap  some  of  this  pollen  on  the  opening 
female  flowers  of  another  plant.  To  prevent 
self-fertilization  in  nature,  the  flowers  do 

the  green  scene  / may  1989 


Richard  Kirchner’s  Chinese  evergreens 
compete  with  his  computer  and  extensive 
software  collection  for  space. 


not  bloom  at  the  same  time;  the  female 
opens  first,  followed  by  the  male. 

plant  care 

The  word  usually  applied  to  Chinese 
evergreens  is  “tough.”  They  succeed  in 
very  dim  light  — surviving  with  as  little  as 
10-  to  15-foot  candles,  but  preferring  at 
least  the  light  from  a north  window  for  a 
few  days  every  month.  (One  foot  candle  is 
the  amount  of  light  shed  by  one  candle  one 
foot  away  on  white  paper  in  a dark  room.) 

Temperature  can  be  a problem.  These 
plants  must  be  kept  warm,  especially  if 
being  grown  in  water.  The  roots  are  es- 
pecially cold  sensitive.  During  the  day  75° 
to  85°F  is  ideal  with  a drop  of  10°  at  night. 
Although  they  will  do  well  in  a room  with 
air  conditioning,  Chinese  evergreens  are 
sensitive  to  cold,  drafty  conditions,  and 
temperatures  in  the  upper  40’s  will  stunt 
their  growth  while  anything  below  45°F 
will  do  them  in. 

As  is  the  case  for  most  plants  that  will 
often  succeed  while  growing  in  water, 
potting  soil  should  be  well  drained  but  the 
mix  should  remain  moist  without  ever 
becoming  soggy  or  drying  out. 

growing  Chinese  evergreens  in  water 

To  grow  Chinese  evergreens  in  water, 
any  vessel  that  will  hold  water  will  serve, 
except  copper,  brass,  or  lead  containers  as 
they  interact  with  water,  plant  food,  or 
both.  Do  you  use  clear  glass  containers  or 
colored  glass?  The  main  objection  to  clear 
glass  is  that  with  a strong  light  source  and 
the  addition  of  extra  nutrients,  a large 
quantity  of  algae  will  start.  The  darker  the 
glass,  the  less  the  algae;  in  an  opaque 
container  there  will  be  none.  I advocate 
clear  glass  because  I enjoy  seeing  the  roots 
and  stem.  Cleaning  containers  is  not  that 
much  of  a job;  I use  test  tube  cleaners  that  1 
buy  from  a chemical  or  medical  supply 
house. 

If  your  new  plant  comes  in  a pot  with  soil 
mix,  turn  it  over  and,  holding  the  plant  stem 
and  dirt  with  one  hand,  knock  the  pot  on 
the  edge  of  a table.  Unless  the  soil  is  very 
wet,  a clump  of  earth  surrounding  the  roots 
will  loosen  and  fall  out.  Take  the  ball  of 
earth  and  place  it  in  a clean  pan  of  tepid 


water;  let  it  soak  until  the  earth  falls  away 
from  the  roots.  Do  this  a second  time  until 
the  roots  are  quite  clean,  being  very  careful 
to  prevent  unnecessary  destruction.  Now 
rinse  the  roots  under  a gentle  flow  of  tepid 
water. 

Next,  take  a container  and  put  a few 
small  pieces  of  charcoal  in  the  bottom;  they 
will  keep  the  water  clear.  Then  add  the 
plant  and  enough  plain  water  to  cover  the 
roots  and  part  of  the  stem.  Never  let  any 
leaves  remain  under  the  water  surface,  they 
will  rot.  As  the  water  evaporates,  replace 
with  fresh  water.  Finally,  make  sure  the 
water  is  pure.  Do  not  use  chlorinated  water. 
If  that’s  all  you  have,  run  a sinkfull  of  water 
and  let  is  sit  for  36  hours.  And  do  not  use 
water  softened  by  a home  appliance.  Plants 
do  not  like  it. 

plants  or  programs 

I called  Richard  the  other  day  to  inquire 
about  his  Chinese  evergreens. 

“All  is  well,”  he  said,  but  then  added, 
“there  is  one  small  problem.  I received  a 
phalaenopsis  orchid  the  other  day  as  a 
gift.” 

“That  shouldn’t  be  troubling,”  I said, 
“except  that  the  orchid  needs  more  light 
than  the  evergreens.” 

“Oh,  I know  that,”  he  answered.  “But  I 
also  have  a whole  series  of  new  computer 
programs  and  shortly  there  will  be  more 
computer  equipment.  Yet  sometimes  I get 
the  feeling  that  the  plants  will  eventually 
dominate.” 

So  if  you  happen  to  see  Chinese  ever- 
greens curling  through  a window  of  a small 
Manhattan  apartment  around  West  48th 
Street,  you'll  know  what  the  problem  is. 

The  International  Aroid  Society 

Membership  in  the  International  Aroid 
Society  is  $ 1 5 per  year  for  individual  and 
$18  family  in  the  U.S.A.  The  address  is: 
Membership  Chairman 
International  Aroid  Society 
PO  Box  43-1853 
South  Miami,  Florida  33143 

Sources  of  Supply: 

The  Glasshouse  Works 
Church  Street,  Box  97 
Stewart,  Ohio  45778-0097 

Jerry  Horne 

10195  South  West  70th 
Miami,  Florida  33173 
(305) 270-1235 

• 

Peter  Loewer’s  1 1th  book  A Year  of  Flowers  was 
published  by  Rodale  Publishing  Co.  in  April 
1989.  His  American  Gardens  was  published  by 
Simon  & Schuster  in  November,  1988.  Loewer 
is  a frequent  contributor  to  Green  Scene. 


27 


For  years  I’ve  admired  a magnificent  specimen  of  Sargent’s 
weeping  hemlock  growing  on  the  lawn  of  the  Theological 
Seminary  in  Upland,  Chester.  As  my  interest  in  rare  trees 
and  especially  dwarf  conifers  grew,  I realized  how  unusual  this 
particular  tree  is.  To  my  knowledge  the  only  other  comparable 
specimens  in  size  and  age  in  the  Delaware  Valley  are  in  the  old 
Horticultural  Hall  collection  in  Fairmount  Park.  None  of  those, 
however,  are  as  fine  and  well  formed  as  the  seminary  hemlock, 
which  carries  its  century-plus  years  with  exceptional  grace.  Further 
search  of  this  Victorian  campus  revealed  many  fine  old  trees  that 
had  been  planted  in  the  last  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century  — 
more  about  that  later. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


The  author  (right)  and  Herman  Gold  (left)  sit  by  the  dwarf  conifers  at  the  entrance  to  the  Leona  Gold 
Garden  at  the  Crozer-Chester  Medical  Center. 


One  block  west,  past  this  hemlock,  along 
Upland  Avenue  at  22nd  Street  a driveway 
leads  to  the  Crozer-Chester  Medical  Center 
(CCMC)  gardens.  A modest  sign  marked 
“Garden  Road”  introduces  the  visitor  to 
the  garden  area,  obscured  by  the  cars  in  the 
parking  lot. 

The  CCMC  garden  consists  of  three 
distinctly  different  areas:  the  remaining  old 
campus  of  the  Crozer  Seminary;  the  newer 
woodland  garden,  now  called  the  Leona 
Gold  Garden;  and  a promenade  walk  along 
Chester  Creek. 


the  Seminary  Gardens 

The  Seminary  Gardens  has  a quality 
often  found  in  old  Victorian  estates;  col- 
lections of  unusual  or  rare  trees.  This 
upland  terrain  is  bordered  by  a number  of 
historically  important  buildings.  One  such 
structure  is  ‘Old  Main,’  which  served  as  a 
hospital  during  the  Civil  War  for  hundreds 
of  wounded  Union  and  Rebel  soldiers.  In 
this  area  a broad  grassy  swath  stretches 
beneath  an  open  planting  of  ancient  trees:  a 
pair  of  majestic  red  oaks  and  sister  oaks, 
g"  white  scarlet  and  burr  oak.  Giant  speci- 
® mens  of  tulip  poplar,  a ‘National  Register' 
"1  cucumber  magnolia  and  many  varieties  of 
J maples  enrich  the  list  of  natives.  In  this 
-n  group  of  trees  are  also  the  exotica  collected 
l-by  the  intrepid  travellers  Crozer  and 
n Johnson*:  giant  specimens  of  Lebanon 
cedar,  Atlas  cedar,  a battered  aged  empress 

*Samuel  A.  Crozer,  the  benefactor,  and  Professor 
Elias  H.  Johnson,  Chair  of  Systematic  Theology. 

continued 


Azaleas,  ‘Snow  White’  and  ‘Stewartstonian’  (red),  create  a necklace  around  the  ponds  on  the 
upper  trail. 


29 


£ 


photo  by  Christopher  Ransom 


Black  cherry  trees  on  ► 
the  right  are  encircled 
by  masses  of  azalea 
blooms  in  May;  on  the 
left  hand  side  of  the 
promenade,  willows 
running  along  Chester 
Creek  mark  the  edge 
of  Crozer-Chester’s 
property  line. 


Dots  of  sunlight 
bounce  off  the  pickerel 
weed  growing  in  the 
water  along  the  bank 
of  the  willow-lined 
Chester  Creek.  The 
walkway  is  centered 
between  the  creek  on 
one  side  and  a bank  of 
granite  and  sandstone 
cliffs  on  the  other. 


-o 

— 

o 

o 

cr 

X 

-3 

T1 

o 

c_ 

TT 

a 


tree,  a ginkgo  and  many  specimen  Japanese 
maples. 

the  Leona  Gold  Garden 

Dr.  Herman  Gold,  former  chief  of 
Cardiology  at  CCMC,  has  been  overseeing 
the  maintenance  and  development  of  the 
Leona  Gold  collection  since  its  installation 
in  1974.  When  his  morning  duties  at  the 
hospital  are  over.  Gold  changes  into  his 
gardening  clothes,  puts  on  an  old  battered 
hat  and  spends  happy  afternoons  working 
in  the  garden.  He  spends  other  afternoons 
travelling  about  searching  for  new  plants 
for  the  Leona  Gold  Garden,  which  he 
dedicated  in  remembrance  of  his  wife. 

It  was  a lucky  day  in  1980  when  Gold 
interviewed  and  hired  Harry  Foulke  to  be 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Christopher  Ransom 


dirctor  of  the  Grounds  Department  of 
CCMC.  Foulke  had  been  assistant  director 
of  Grounds  at  Swarthmore  College  for  15 
years,  and  before  that  owner  of  a nursery. 
After  Foulke  arrived  the  Leona  Gold 
Garden  rapidly  expanded.  The  combina- 
tion of  Foulke’s  expertise,  plus  Herman 
Gold’s  enthusiasm  and  love  of  plants,  en- 
abled them  to  get  the  funds  and  coopera- 
tion necessary  to  carry  out  their  ambitious 
plans.  Harry  Foulke,  with  a limited  budget 
and  a staff  of  five  dedicated  grounds- 
keepers, maintains  the  hospital’s  72  acres 
including  the  Leona  Gold  Garden,  in  excel- 
lent condition.  As  new  buildings  have  been 
added  to  the  CCMC,  he  has  planted  new 
cultivars  of  hawthorns,  hollies,  birch  and 
many  other  fine  specimens.  Foulke  is  a 
quiet  and  courteous  man,  always  willing  to 
share  his  considerable  horticultural  knowl- 
edge with  questioning  visitors  like  myself. 

In  1984,  a large  greenhouse  was  con- 
structed near  the  entrance  to  the  garden. 
Judy  Walsh,  who  had  worked  in  the  now 
defunct  horticultural  therapy  program  in 
the  Psychiatric  Unit  at  CCMC,  was  hired 
to  run  it.  She  produces  and  cares  for  all  the 
herbaceous  plants.  She  propagates  annuals 
and  perennials  for  both  outdoor  beds  and 
decorative  indoor  plants  distributed  among 
the  various  hospital  buildings.  The  quantity 
and  quality  of  plants  throughout  CCMC  is 
a testimony  to  Judy’s  heroic  energy  and 
horticultural  knowledge. 

Down  a steep  slope  east  of  the  ‘Campus’ 
you  enter  the  Leona  Gold  Garden.  This 
woodland  area  is  situated  in  a descending 
valley  leading  to  the  Chester  Creek.  The 
visitor  first  encounters,  bordering  the  path, 
two  islands  that  contain  a collection  of 
dwarf  conifers.  The  intense  contrast  be- 
tween the  brightness  of  the  stone-chipped 
mulch  of  the  conifer  area  and  the  deep 
shade  of  the  woodland  that  follows  creates 
a strong  visual  impact.  In  May  the  hillside 
to  the  left  sparkles  with  a brilliance  of  color 
found  on  the  palettes  of  Impressionist 
painters.  Luminous  pinks,  mauves,  laven- 
ders, deep  purples  and  crimson  intertwine 
in  drifts  of  blossoms  of  the  hybrid  azaleas 
and  rhododendrons.  On  another  bank 
harmonies  of  hot  pinks,  vermillion  and 
orange  reds  and  yellows  are  relieved  by  the 
cool  whites,  all  vibrating  under  the  shade  of 
towering  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees. 

To  the  right  of  the  walk  a meandering 
stream  runs  into  a pool  centered  by  a sea 
anemone-shaped,  flowing  fountain.  In  this 
lower  and  damper  terrain  the  wildflowers’ 
colors  are  less  dramatic,  although  the 
trained  eye  may  cherish  the  gold  of  a tiny 
primula  intermingled  with  cobalt-blue 


forget-me-nots,  over  the  exuberant  azalea 
and  rhododendron  flowers.  Yellow  wood 
poppies  and  violas,  white  anemones  and 
foam  flowers,  creamy  dutchman’s-breeches, 
red  trillium  and  pink  hepatica  are  painted 
with  a more  modest  brush.  The  entire 
spectrum  of  colored  flowers  are  brought 
into  a peaceful  harmony  by  the  fresh  green 
of  the  many  ferns  that  carpet  the  woodland 
floor.  Throughout  the  garden,  wandering 
or  sitting  on  the  benches  thoughtfully 
placed  around  are  ambulatory  patients, 
nurses  and  staff,  dwarfed  by  the  canopy  of 
trees  growing  in  this  woodland  for  many 
years.  Several  ponds  fed  by  the  streamlet 
serve  as  both  a virual  attraction  and  a 
habitat  for  moisture-loving  plants. 

the  promenade  along  Chester  Creek 

At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  the  stream 
disappears  into  the  Chester  Creek,  the  path 
swings  to  the  left  and  a new  vista  unfolds 
along  the  promenade  walk.  The  area  along 
the  Creek  reminds  me  of  a miniature  version 
of  the  “Grande  Jatte,”  an  Impressionist 
painting  by  Seurat.  One  can  imagine  in 
Victorian  days  on  a Sunday  afternoon, 
entire  families  promenading  under  the 
weeping  willows,  which  cast  long  shadows 
with  intermittent  slashes  of  light  and  shade. 
A series  of  coves  cut  into  the  sandstone  and 
granite  cliffs  opposite  the  Creek,  isolating 
the  upper  garden  from  the  promenade. 
Ancient  native  beech  and  hardwoods  grow 
there.  Azaleas  and  rhododendrons  are 
planted  at  the  base  of  the  cliff  but  somehow 
they  seem  too  civilized  and  contemporary 
in  mood  for  this  druid-like  setting. 

When  I return  to  the  garden  entrance  to 
leave  this  Eden  I am  aware  that  I have  been 
in  a haven,  an  escape  from  the  real  world  of 
the  hospital  grounds.  Though  the  hospital 
complex  is  isolated  from  the  garden,  the 


same  standard  of  horticultural  interest  and 
tasteful  design  prevails  throughout  the 
grounds.  Beds  of  gay  annuals,  raised  in  the 
greenhouse,  soften  the  clinical  environ- 
ment. These  together  with  the  many  new 
varieties  of  trees  and  shrubs  planted  around 
all  the  hospital  buildings  mitigate  the  ap- 
prehension we  often  experience  around 
most  hospitals.  The  forward-looking  ad- 
ministration of  John  McMeekin  and  the 
board  of  managers  deserves  acknowledge- 
ment for  supporting  and  encouraging  this 
superior  horticultural  activity. 


Botanical  Names  of  Trees  Mentioned 

(in  order  of  appearance) 

Sargent’s  weeping  hemlock 

Tsuga  canadensis  'Pendula' 

red  oaks 

Quercus  rubra 

scarlet  oaks 

Q.  coccinea 

white  oaks 

Q.  alba 

burr  oaks 

Q.  macrocarpa 

tulip  poplar 

Liriodendron  tulipifera 

cucumber  magnifolia  Magnolia  acuminata 

Lebanon  cedar 

Cedrus  libani 

Atlas  cedar 

Cedrus  atlantica 

empress  tree 

Paulownia  tomentosa 

ginkgo 

Ginkgo  biloba 

Japanese  maple 

Acer palmatum  ‘Dissectum’ 

• 

Morris  Berd  is  well-known  as  a Philadelphia 
painter  and  professor  emeritus  at  the  University 
of  the  Arts  (formerly  the  Philadelphia  College  of 
Art).  His  garden  near  Media,  Pennsylvania,  has 
been  visited  by  several  national  and  local  horti- 
cultural societies  in  recognition  of  his  rare  and 
unusual  plant  collections. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


photo  by  Gina  Burnett 


E 


32 


THE  FAST,  EASY  WAY  TO 
PROPAGATE  YOUR  FAVORITE 
PLANTS 

Vegetative  propagation  by  stem  cuttings 
is  an  easy  way  to  share  plants  with  family 
and  friends,  while  extending  your  own 
plant  collection.  Three  basic  types  of  cut- 
tings are  used  to  propagate  most  herbace- 
ous and  woody  plants:  softwood,  semi- 
hardwood, and  hardwood  cuttings.  Under- 
standing how  and  when  to  take  cuttings 
will  make  the  difference  between  success 
and  failure.  Here  are  a few  basic  guidelines. 

Softwood  cuttings  are  taken  from  the 
soft  new  growing  tips  of  a plant.  These 
succulent  cuttings  are  usually  taken  in  the 
spring  of  the  year.  The  actively  growing 
tips  are  full  of  growth  hormones,  which 
help  the  softwood  cuttings  to  root  quickly 
and  with  a high  success  ratio.  Cuttings  can 
be  taken  from  many  houseplants,  annuals, 
hardy  perennials,  and  some  woody  plants. 

Semi-hardwood  cuttings  are  used  for 
many  woody  plants,  both  indoor  and  out- 
door varieties.  These  cuttings  are  taken 
after  the  soft  new  growth  has  begun  to 
mature,  or  harden  off.  Semi-hardwood 
cuttings  are  taken  in  early  to  mid-summer, 
depending  on  the  type  of  plant. 

Hardwood  cuttings  are  used  to  propa- 
gate woody  plants.  They  are  taken  in  the 
winter  months,  after  the  current  year’s 
growth  has  completely  matured. 

making  cuttings 

Timing  cuttings  becomes  more  critical 
the  harder  a plant  is  to  propagate.  For 
example,  rhododendrons  are  propagated 
by  semi-hardwood  cuttings.  The  maturing 
process  can  be  delayed  by  a cool,  wet 
spring,  so  the  time  when  cuttings  are 
normally  taken  should  be  delayed  until  the 
stem  has  become  semi-hard.  Conversely, 
easy-to-propagate  plants  have  a wider 
range  of  time  during  which  you  can  take 
cuttings. 

Take  cuttings  from  healthy,  well- 
fertilized  plants.  Cuttings  taken  from 
diseased  or  insect-infested  plants  root  more 
slowly  with  a lower  success  rate  than  those 


H O T L I N 

ra)  By  Kathleen  Mills,  Assistant  Horticulturist 


taken  from  a healthy  plant.  Diseased  cut- 
tings have  few  food  reserves  in  their  stems, 
making  the  transition  from  cutting  to  plant 
unlikely.  Should  these  cuttings  root  they 
may  have  the  problem  that  the  mother  or 
stock  plant  had.  Therefore  select  healthy, 
vigorous  stock  plants  to  insure  the  best 
results  from  your  cuttings. 

The  physiology  of  outdoor  and  indoor 
plants  can  vary.  Outdoor  plants  are  con- 
stantly adapting  to  changes  in  their  en- 
vironment. Their  life  cycle  has  definite 
seasons  that  the  plants  prepare  themselves 
for  and  are  affected  by.  Because  green- 
house/indoor plants  are  maintained  in  a 
more  stable  environment,  somewhat  pro- 
tected from  seasonal  change,  their  cuttings 
tend  to  root  with  more  success  than  those  of 
their  outdoor  peers. 

Two  sharp,  clean  cuts  make  a cutting. 
First,  cut  just  below  a node,  or  leaf  joint.  A 
smooth  cut  helps  to  form  a callus.  The 
second  cut  removes  any  stub,  or  internode 
left  on  the  stock  plant,  down  to  the  next 
node.  Softwood  and  semi-hardwood  cut- 
tings need  special  attention  so  they  do  not 
wilt  or  dry  out.  They  should  be  cut  early  in 
the  day  when  the  plant  is  full  of  water,  or 
turgid.  Keep  them  out  of  the  hot  sun,  make 
sure  they  are  kept  moist,  and  pot  them  as 
soon  as  possible.  Any  flowers  or  flower 
buds  should  be  removed  so  that  the  stored 
energy  in  the  stem  can  be  used  for  rooting. 
The  lower  ’A”  can  be  dipped  into  a rooting 
hormone  before  the  bottom  third  to  half  is 
placed  in  a sterile  potting  medium. 

growing  cuttings 

The  success  or  failure  of  rooting  a cutting 
depends  on  the  ability  of  the  stem’s  cells  to 
change  their  function  and  differentiate  into 
root  cells.  For  this  differentiation  to  take 
place  the  gardener  needs  to  create  a favor- 
able environment,  which  includes  warm 
soil,  cooler  air  temperatures,  and  humidity 
without  wetness.  The  following  tips  can 
help  you  create  this  environment. 

The  quickest  rooting  occurs  when  the 
transpiration  rate  of  a cutting  is  kept  at  a 
minimum.  Transpiration  is  the  loss  of 
water  vapor  through  the  leaves.  By  reduc- 
ing the  amount  of  leaf  surface  area,  you  can 
reduce  transpiration.  For  example,  when 
taking  a rhododendron  cutting,  cut  the 
leaves  down  in  size.  Remember  that  some 
leaf  area  is  needed  so  that  photosynthesis 
can  continue.  The  transpiration  rate  can 
also  be  minimized  by  maximizing  the 
humidity  around  the  plant.  A high  humidity 
can  be  maintained  through  several  methods. 
Commercially,  mist  systems  keep  a thin 
film  of  moisture  around  the  leaves.  At 


home,  a pebble  tray  or  a plastic  bag  over 
the  cuttings  will  help  maintain  a high  level 
of  humidity.  Keeping  the  soil  temperature 
warmer  than  the  air  temperature  will  also 
help  to  elevate  the  humidity.  Heating  coils 
for  home  use  are  available  through  most 
horticultural  catalogs  and  in  many  garden 
centers. 

Rooting  hormones  help  to  speed  the 
rooting  process.  Since  cuttings  are  neces- 
sarily kept  in  a moist  environment,  it  is  a 
good  idea  to  use  a rooting  hormone  that 
contains  a fungicide.  Fungi,  like  cuttings, 
thrive  in  a warm,  moist  setting.  A fungicide 
will  prevent  fungus  from  entering  the 
wounded  end  of  a cutting.  Hormones  hasten 
root  initiation  and  improve  the  quality  of 
the  forming  root  system,  but  they  do  not 
replace  the  need  for  proper  temperatures, 
light,  water,  and  humidity. 

The  proper  growing  medium  will  also 
aid  quick  and  healthy  root  production.  A 
soilless  mixture  provides  the  needed  bal- 
ance and  air  and  water,  and  a sterile 
environment.  While  a moist  medium  is 
needed  to  avoid  wilting,  a water-logged 
one  fosters  disease,  making  good  drainage 
a necessity.  A mixture  of  peat  and  perlite 
(1:1)  will  fill  the  need  for  home  propaga- 
tion. Where  a mist  system  is  used  the 
setting  tends  to  be  moister,  so  often  sand  is 
used  as  a rooting  medium.  Sand  enables 
water  to  drain  quickly,  while  still  providing 
a good  anchor  for  developing  cuttings. 

These  general  tips  will  help  you  propa- 
gate your  favorite  plants.  For  information 
on  specific  plants  the  books  listed  here  are 
available  in  the  PHS  library,  or  call  the 
HOTLINE,  Monday  through  Friday,  9:30 
a.m.  - 12:00  noon,  at  215-922-8043. 


Recommended  Reading 

Plant  Propagation:  A Practical  Guide 
for  Every  Garden,  K.R.W.  Hammett, 
Drake  Publishers,  Inc.,  New  York, 
1977. 

Plant  Propagation  Practices,  James  S. 
Wells,  American  Nurseryman 
Publishing  Company,  Chicago,  IL, 
1985. 

Plant  Propagation  Principles  & 
Practices,  Hudson  T.  Hartmann,  Dale 
E.  Kester,  Prentice  Hall,  Inc.,  New 
Jersey,  1983. 

Propagation,  Alan  Toogood,  Stein  & 
Day  Publishers,  New  York,  1980. 


I 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


LETTERS  TO  THE  EDITOR 


Funding  Bambi’s  Trip  Home 

The  article,  “Bambi  Go  Home,”  in  your 
January  issue  paints  a vivid  and  accurate 
picture  of  the  damage  to  plant  life  caused 
by  deer  in  New  Jersey. 

We,  on  the  Pennsylvania  side  of  the 
Delaware  River,  are  no  less  victims  of  this 
same  problem,  which  has  become  acute  at 
the  Bowman’s  Hill  Wildflower  Preserve  in 
Washington  Crossing  Historic  Park  in 
Bucks  County.  This  Preserve  is  a botanical 
garden  of  great  value  to  the  public  and  to 
the  horticultural  and  scientific  communities 
locally,  regionally  and  worldwide.  It  is  the 
first  botanical  garden  in  Pennsylvania  to  be 
accredited  by  the  American  Association  of 
Museums  and  the  only  accredited  wild- 
flower garden  in  the  nation. 

The  Preserve’s  living  plant  collection 
includes  nearly  100  species,  which  are 
listed  as  endangered  in  Pennsylvania,  or 
which  are  on  the  federally  endangered  list. 
And  they  represent  a significant  part  of  the 
natural  heritage  of  the  people  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, a heritage  that  is  now  threatened  by 
the  deer. 

We  have  tried  every  known  repellent 
and  type  of  barricade,  all  to  no  avail  and 
have  now  concluded  that  the  only  per- 
manent solution  to  our  problem  is  to 
enclose  the  Preserve  in  a 10-foot  chain- 
link  fence  that  would  be  deerproof.  Such  a 
fence  would  cost  about  $250,000.  Such  a 
fence  project  was  included  in  the  state’s 
capital  budget  last  fall.  Now  it  will  be 
necessary  to  get  the  present  administration 
to  appropriate  the  money  for  the  fence.  We 
would  be  most  grateful  for  any  help  your 
readers  can  give  us  by  contacting  their 
senators  and  representatives  in  Harrisburg 
and  urging  them  to  support  funding  for  this 
project. 

Martha  Ludes  Garra 
Trustee,  Bowman’s  Hill 
Wildflower  Preserve 

Verbascum 

It  was  a delight  to  read  John  Swan’s 
article  praising  the  lovely  but  under-utilized 
Verbascum.  I can  also  attest  that  these 
delightful  plants  tolerate  heat  and  drought 
beautifully  and  remain  attractive  for  weeks. 
Some  successful  combinations  I’ve  used 
with  Verbascum  olympicum  (and  which 
should  also  work  well  with  other  tall 
Verbascum)  are: 

• Miscanthus  sinensis  ‘Zebrinus’  (Zebra 


Grass)  and  Echinacea  purpurea  ‘White 
Lustre.’ 

• Tithonia  rotundifolia  ‘Sundance’  (also 
‘Goldfinger,’  both  short  cultivars  of 
Mexican  sunflower)  and  Artemisia 
ludoviciana  ‘Silver  King.’ 

Where  I need  a shorter  Verbascum,  I cut 
back  (to  about  3”)  the  flower  stalks  of  V. 
thapsis  and  V.  olympicum  when  they  reach 
18”.  In  2-3  weeks  the  plants  form  long- 
lasting  multi-branched  candelabra  of  heav- 
ily flowered  stalks  24”-30”  tall.  As  an 
added  bonus,  the  leaf  rosettes  do  not  die 
and  are  handsome  during  the  following 
winter. 

For  something  different,  try  the  V. 
phoeniceum  hybrids  (Thompson  and 
Morgan)  — a 24”-36”  green-leaved  Ver- 
bascum which  displays  a profusion  of  rose, 
pink,  violet,  lavender  and  white  flowers  in 
late  April  and  May. 

Patricia  C.  Christopher 
(Instructor — Longwood  Gardens 
Annual  Plants  and  Perennial 
Plants  courses.) 


Amaryllis 

Your  March  article  on  amaryllis  was 
especially  informative  but  it  omitted  one 
aspect  of  the  treatment  of  these  bulbs: 
When  is  the  best  season  for  repotting? 
Immediately  after  they’re  forced  into 
dormancy  at  the  end  of  summer?  Or  as  they 
begin  new  growth  after  the  winter  rest 
period? 

I'd  be  most  grateful  for  a reply. 

John  G.  Shaffer 
Potomac,  Maryland 

Todd  R.  Phillippi  replies:  “Every  two  or 
three  years  I repot  my  Hippeastrum 
(amaryllis)  at  the  end  of  the  summer 
growing  season  (late  September).  About 
mid-August  I stop  all  fertilizing,  and  water 
sparingly  to  help  get  the  bulbs  in  the  right 
condition.  It’s  important  when  repotting  to 
remove  any  dead  or  decayed  roots  down  to 
the  bulb’s  base.” 


Correction: 

March/April  Green  Scene,  p.  28 

XjU  i PLANT  SOCIETY  INFORMATION  Ali  J 

iX/  DELAWARE  VALLEY  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SOCIETY 

Plant  Sale: 

Contact:  a&mnn' 

Oct.  14,  1-5  pm 

May  20-21,  10-4  pm 

Mr.  Robert  Long 

Oct.  15,  10-5  pm 

Tyler  Arboretum 

953  Palmers  Mill  Rd. 

Longwood  Gardens, 

Painter’s  Mill  Rd. 

Media,  PA  19063 

Conservatory 

Lima,  PA  19037 

Kennett  Square,  PA  19348 
Admission  Fee  to  Longwood  Gardens 

NEW  JERSEY  DAFFODIL  SOCIETY 
Bulb  Auction  & Meeting:  Contact: 

Sept.  15,  3:30  pm 

Mrs.  Eugene  Haring 

Frelinghuysen 

Rosedale  Lane 

Arboretum 

Princeton,  NJ  08540 

E.  Hanover  Ave. 
Morristown,  NJ 

or 

Mrs.  Fairman 
88  N.  Stanworth  Dr. 
Princeton,  NJ  08540 

The  PlantTinder 


A free  service  for  Green  Scene  readers 

If  you  can't  locate  a much  wanted  plant  send  your 
name  and  address  (include  ZIP),  the  botanical  and 
common  name  of  the  plant  to  Plant  Finder,  Green 
Scene,  PHS,  325  Walnut  St.,  Philadelphia,  PA 
19106. 


WANTED 

Ceanothus  x ‘Gloire  de  Versailles,’ 
Rhododendron  x gandavense  ‘Coccinea 
Speciosa.'  Contact  William  H.  Frederick, 
Jr.,  1472  Ashland  Clinton  School  Road, 
Hockessin,  DE  19707. 


the  green  scene  / may  1989 


■■■ 


CLASSIFIED  ADS 


34 


★ ★ 10%  DISCOUNT  TO  PHS  MEMBERS!  ★★ 

MEADOWBROOK  FARM 
1633  Washington  Lane 
Meadowbrook,  PA  19046 

887-5900  Mon-Sat  10-5 

AN  ENCHANTING  EXPERIENCE 

awaits  you  in  our  gardens  & greenhouses. 
Choose  from  over  40  varieties  of  hybrid  & 
species  clematis  or  600  varieties  of  perennial 
that  are  perfect  for  sunny,  shaded  or  ground- 
cover  areas.  Accent  your  garden  with  rare 
plants,  topiaries,  fountains,  statuary  or  beauti- 
fully planted  patio  pots.  Unique  gifts  and  baskets 
of  blooming  plants  are  our  specialty. 

For  The  Better  Things  In  Gardening 

MEADOWBROOK  FARM 

★ ★ 10%  DISCOUNT  TO  PHS  MEMBERS!  ★ ★ 

Large  collection  of  Herbs  and  Perennials . . . Old 
favorites  as  well  as  hard-to-find  variety  — dove 
tree,  medlar  tree,  franklinia,  magnolias  and 
unusual  evergreens,  complete  nursery. 

Plant  loft  featuring  sweet  olive,  jasmine,  bay, 
star  anise,  anthurium,  seasonal  and  unusual 
plants,  always  something  new.  Unique  gift  shop, 
garden  books,  culinary  packets,  herbal  gift 
baskets. 

June  3&4  HERB  WEEKEND 

Lectures  & demonstration  — free  herb  snack 
samples.  For  Herb  Weekend  flyer  call  or  send 
SASE  (marked  Herb  Weekend)  to: 

Triple  Oaks  Nursery  and  Florist 

Route  47  Delsea  Drive 
Franklinville,  NJ  08322 
609-694-4272 
OPEN  7 DAYS 

Less  than  45  minutes  from  Center  City  Phila. 
Walt  Whitman  Bridge  to  Rte.  42 
Franklinville  exit  at  Turnersville  to  Rte.  47. 


JOSEPH  MANERO  & SONS,  INC. 
MASONRY 
(215)  885-3711 

• Brick  or  Stone  Garden  Walks  and  Walls 
• Flagstone  and  Slate  Terraces 

• Over  42  Years  Experience 

• Design  Service  Available 


AXELROD  & DAILEY 

GARDEN  and  LANDSCAPE  DESIGNS 

• Annuals,  Perennials,  & Maintenance  • 

• Lattice,  Trellis  & Brickwork  Available  • 

256  Cross  Rd.,  Merion,  PA  19066 

(215)  336-4658 


ENJOY  THE  FINEST! 

Quality  Plant  Material 
Variety  and  Selection 
Creative  Design 

Competitive  pricing  for  the  discerning  gardener. 
Thousands  of  Annuals  and  Perennials  grown 
here  for  your  pleasure.  Visit  our  farm  — choose 
from  the  field  (by  appointment).  Personal  service 
and  attention  by  our  qualified  Hort.  staff.  We 
care  about  you. 

Full-service  Lawn  & Garden  Shop 
Complete  Landscape  Service 

If  you  can't  find  it  anywhere,  call  us! 

The  Gooseberry  Bush 
(215)  269-2028 


“Good  landscape  design  brings  pleasure 
throughout  the  year,  minimizes  maintenance 
and  saves  you  from  making  expensive  mistakes.” 

Sara  Thompson  Landscape  Design 
(215)  566-5005 


WOOD  DECKS 

Design  and  installation  of  high-quality  wood 
decks  utilizing  all  appropriate  wood  species  as 
specified.  Exterior  carpentry,  fences,  benches, 
etc.  Paul  Soult  (215)  565-5766. 


ALGAE  CONTROL  WITHOUT  CHEMICALS 

Aerators  that  move  350  to  1 ,585  gallons  of  water 
per  minute  with  low  power  consumption.  Free 
literature  or  call: 

Pool  & Patio  Products  Company 
504  Stanwick  Road 
Moorestown,  New  Jersey  08057 
(609)  235-6261 


Featuring  the  new  GCA  Tulip: 
BUNDLES  OF  BULBS 

112  Green  Spring  Valley  Rd. 

Owings  Mills,  MD  21117 
(301)  363-1371 
Horticulture  Catalog  price:  $1. 

Scores  of  Narcissi,  unusual  little  bulbs,  and 
tulips.  Also  herbaceous  peonies,  lilium,  paper- 
whites,  and  amaryllis.  Write  for  catalog. 


GARDEN  DESIGN  — Design  and  installation  of 
specialty  gardens  including  perennial  borders, 
herb,  kitchen  and  English  cottage  gardens. 
CAROL  MANICONE  (215)822-1025. 


Creative  Quality  Trellis  and  Lattices 

(fixed  or  movable) 

Send  $1  for  a wholesale  catalog  to: 
Simple’s  Creative  Quality  Trellis  and  Lattices 
Box  69G,  R.D.  #2,  Honey  Brook,  PA  19344 


Patrice  Fine  Art  Prints  is  now  offering  reproduc- 
tions of  original  floral  paintings  by  well-known 
post-modern  naturalist,  Tom  Steigerwald. 

This  unique  seven-image  selection  is  available 
in  both  prints  and  notecards. 

For  further  information,  contact: 

Patrice  Fine  Art  Prints 
5415  N.  Fairhill  Street 
Philadelphia,  PA  19120 


AFRICAN  VIOLETS 

1 00  varieties,  standard,  miniature,  trailers,  vari- 
egated types.  Greenhouses  open  daily.  Cultural, 
historical  book,  $4.95  ppd.  Color  catalog  50$. 

TINARI  GREENHOUSES,  2325  Valley  Road, 
Huntington  Valley,  PA  19006.  947-0144. 


GARDENER/FOREPERSON  — Prestigious 
hospital  located  in  CC  Phila.  has  oppty  re- 
sponsible for  all  aspects  of  grounds  mainten- 
ance. Knowledge  of  accepted  practices  of 
grounds  keeping  such  as  seeding,  planting, 
transplanting  and  elimination  of  insects  and 
other  pests.  Must  be  proficient  in  the  use  and 
repair  of  grounds  maintenance  tools  including 
snow  removal  equipment.  Formal  horticultural 
training  prefd.  Previous  supervisory  exp.  an 
asset.  Excellent  salary/benefits  including 
tuition  program.  Resumes  including  salary 
history  to:  A-62,  P.O.  Box  2066,  Phila.,  PA  1 91 03 
EOE,  M/F. 


DAVID  BROTHERS 

Landscape  Architects,  Builders 
and  Nurserymen 

Providing  the  Fine  Art  of  Garden  Construction 
and  Landscape  Restoration 

QUALITY  SERVICE  WITH  COURTESY 
AND  RELIABILITY 

EDGAR  and  KIM  DAVID 
247-2992  584-1550 


LINDA  CORSON 
LANDSCAPE  DESIGN 

• Consulting 
• Plans 

• Supervision 

Member  ASLA 

Registered  Landscape  Architect 
215-247-5619 


LANGENBACH 

A COLLECTION  OF  THE 
WORLD’S  FINEST  GARDEN  TOOLS 

We  have  assembled  a collection 
of  the  finest  Garden  Tools 
In  The  World. 

We  offer  them  to  you  through 
our  full-color  catalog, 

FREE! 

P.O.  Box  453,  Dept.  200 
Blairstown,  NJ  07825 

Phone  (201)  362-5886 


Water  lilies,  darting  goldfish  and  splashing 
water  provide  you  with  a soothing  atmosphere, 
a pleasant  focal  point  in  your  garden.  The  1989 
LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS  catalog  features 
all  it  takes  to  create  your  own  garden  oasis, 
including  the  pool. 

The  Lilypons  catalogue  and  seasonal  news- 
letter $5.00. 


LILYPONS  WATER  GARDENS 

5300  Scenic  Road 
P.O.  Box  10 

Lilypons,  MD  21717-0010 
(301)  874-5133 


ROCKNOLL  NURSERY 

OVER  300  VARIETIES  PERENNIALS  FOR  Sun 
& Shade.  Unusual  Rock  and  Alpine  Plants. 
Hosta,  Hemerocallis,  Sempervivums,  Dwarf, 
Siberian  and  Japanese  Iris,  Wildflowers,  Dwarf 
Shrubs  and  Evergreens.  Perennial  Seed.  14 
Varieties  Dianthus,  40  Varieties  Phlox  Subulata 
& Species,  20  Varieties  Hardy  Geraniums.  24- 
page  Catalog.  Send  50$  Stamps.  Our  61  st  Year. 

ROCKNOLL NURSERY 

9210  U.S.  50  Dept.  28 
Hillsboro,  Ohio  45133-8546 


Beautiful  fuchsia  plants  shipped  in  3"  pots,  150 
varieties.  Catalog  $1.00.  Grower’s  choice 
special,  six  plants,  all  different,  $17.50  ppd. 
G & G Gardens,  6711  Tustin  Rd.,  Salinas,  CA 
93907. 


Foxborough  Nursery  is  a grower  of  dwarf  and 
unusual  conifers,  broadleafs,  and  trees.  Send 
$1 .00  for  our  40-page,  mail-order  catalog  today! 
Foxborough  Nursery,  3611  Miller  Road,  Street, 
MD  21154.  Visits  by  appointment  only.  (301) 
836-7023. 


Catalogue  by  priority  mail  $6.75. 


GUIDES  WANTED 

at  the  Powel  House  and  the  Hill-Physick-Keith 
House,  both  in  Society  Hill.  For  more  information: 

(215)  925-9537 


THE  AVANT  GARDENER 

Subscribe  to  America’s  most  useful,  most 
quoted  gardening  publication.  Every  month  this 
unique  news  service  brings  you  the  newest, 
most  practical  information  on  new  plants,  pro- 
ducts, and  techniques,  with  sources,  feature 
articlles,  special  issues.  Awarded  Garden  Club 
of  America  and  Massachusetts  Horticultural 
Society  medals.  Curious?  Sample  copy  $1. 
Serious?  $10  full  year  (reg.  $15).  THE  AVANT 
GARDENER,  P.0  Box  489S,  New  York  NY 
10028. 


OUTDOOR  FURNITURE  SPECIALISTS 
THE  HILL  CO. 

An  outstanding  selection  of  outdoor  furniture 
and  accessories.  Featuring  select  pieces  from 
Molla  and  introducing  the  Winterthur  Collection. 
8615  Germantown  Ave. 

Chestnut  Hill  247-7600 


DISTINCTIVE  PLANTS  for  your  garden  and 
landscape.  Scarce,  unusual  and  many  old 
favorites.  Well  established  in  4”  pots,  ready  for 
you  to  grow  on.  Free  catalog. 

APPALACHIAN  GARDENS 

P.O.  Box  82-S 

Waynesboro,  PA  17268-0082 
(717)  762-4312 


INDIAN  RUN  NURSERY 
RHODODENDRONS 

New  Jersey-grown,  small-leaved  & large-leaved 
Species  and  hybrids.  Nursery  is  3A  mi.  from  NJ 
Turnpike  exit  7A.  East  of  1-95  at  Exit  7.  By 
appointment  only.  INDIAN  RUN  NURSERY, 
Allentown  Road,  Robbinsville,  NJ  08691 . 1 -609- 
259-2600. 


LARGEST  SELECTION  OF 
RHODODENDRONS  & AZALEAS 

on  the  East  Coast  with  many  new  varieties.  Also 
Kalmia,  Pieris,  and  many  companion  plants. 
Mail  order  catalog,  $2.  ROSLYN  NURSERY, 
Dept.  GS,  Box  69,  Roslyn,  NY  11576. 


CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
HARDY  AZALEAS  AND  RHODODENDRONS 

Northern  Crown  and  Acclimated 
Proven  Hardy  Without  Winter  Protection 
Big  sizes!  Big  selection!  Personal  service! 
Two-year  Catalog  Subscription: 

$2.00  (deductible) 

CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
Box  305-GS589,  South  Salem,  NY  10590 
(914)  763-5958 


NEAL  SHAFFER 

Wonderful  Wedding  Flowers 
Elegant  English  Gardenflowers 
Sumptuous,  Scrumptious  Flowers 

PARTYFLOWERS  LTD.  925-3618 

By  Appointment 

Workshop:  2737  Cambridge  St.,  Phila.,  19130 


COX  & CO.,  INC. 

Tree  and  Landscape  Services. 
Certified  Arborist  PENN-DEL. 

Let  us  protect  and  beautify  your  trees 
and  help  preserve  our  environment. 

(215)  687-1780 


ARE  YOU  READY  FOR  A JOB  CHANGE? 
We  can  help  you  find 
a job  in  horticulture. 

Employers  are  seeking  trained  help  in  all  areas 
of  the  field.  Our  firm  focuses  exclusively  on 
horticulture  positions,  and  all  areas  of  our  work 
are  confidential.  If  you  are  considering  a job 
change,  or  looking  for  your  first  job,  give  us  a call. 

L.V.  HOWLEY,  VANTINE  ASSOCIATES 
187  Buckshire  Drive 
Holland,  PA  18966 
(215)  364-5669 


“WILDFLOWERS”  ART  PRINT 
IN  VIBRANT  FULL  COLOR! 

80  fascinating  species  arranged  by  habitat  and 
blooming  time  on  a big  (20"  x 27”),  beautiful, 
educational  print.  Background  includes  30 
native  wildlife  species.  $15  (PA  residents  add 
6%)  plus  $2  shipping.  Send  $1  for  illustrated 
brochure  of  unique  educational  and  Limited 
Edition  prints  to: 

ROBERTA  LEE  WILDLIFE  ART 
BOX  4699,  TOLLGATE  ROAD 
R.D.  #1 

NEW  HOPE,  PA  18938 
(215)  297-5995 

Visa/MC  Dealer  Inquiries  Invited 


CHINA— Find  your  discontinued  English  bone 
china.  Aynsley,  Coalport,  Minton,  Royal  Doulton, 
Royal  Worcester,  Spode,  Wedgwood. 

VAN  NESS  CHINA  CO. 

1124-H  Fairway  Dr.,  Waynesboro,  VA  22980 
703-942-2827.  Appointment  only. 


Caretaker  couple  for  historic  property.  Live-in, 
unfurnished  apt.  Minimal  rent.  Work  require- 
ments. Friends  of  the  Grange,  Inc.,  Box  853, 
Havertown,  PA  19083. 


ARCHITECTURE,  SITE  PLANNING 
GARDEN  DESIGN 

Todd  R.  Phillippi,  AIA 
Complete  commercial  and  residential 
design  services 

(215)  455-2085  5426  N.  Fairhill  St.,  Phila.,  PA 


RAGAN  DESIGN  GROUP,  LTD. 
LANDSCAPE  ARCHITECTS 

Specialization:  Design  of  Urban  Gardens 
Restoration  of  existing  gardens 
— Consultations  — 

— Creative  Designs  & Installation  — 

— Construction  Supervision  — 

114  CHESTNUT  STREET 
(215)  923-1997 


COMMERCIAL  REAL  ESTATE  OPPORTUNITY 
for 

FULL  SERVICE  RETAIL  GARDEN  CENTER 

Central  Bucks  County,  near  Newtown  and  New 
Hope,  beautifully  restored  historic  stone  farm- 
house and  General  Store  complex,  with  large 
barn,  12.5  acres,  commercial  zoning.  Ideal  for 
garden  shop,  landscape  nursery/design,  green- 
houses, display  gardens,  Christmas  shop.  Two 
road  frontages  for  easy  access  and  parking. 
Country  setting  in  direct  path  of  booming  Bucks 
County  housing  growth.  Owner/Manager  living 
quarters.  $750,000.  Call  Owners  (215)  598-7433. 


ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY  LANDSCAPE 
NURSERY,  welcomes  you  to  visit  our  20-acre 
nursery,  located  on  a restored  Chester  County 
farm  in  lovely  historic  Chester  Springs,  Pa.  Our 
full-service  landscape  nursery  can  fill  all  your 
gardening  and  outdoor  living  needs  with  25  full- 
time horticulturists  on  staff.  Growers  of  over 
1000  varieties  of  perennials  in  mature  sizes  to 
complement  the  established  landscape. 

Patio  Furniture  Shop  • Greenhouses 
10  acres  Nursery  Stock  • Landscape  Materials 
Garden  Shop  • Seasonal  Christmas  Shop 
Professional  Landscape  Design 
and  Installation 

Call  Now  for  Spring  Design  Consultation 

Philadelphia  Flower  Show 
MAJOR  AWARD  WINNER  1989,  1988,  1987,  1986 
GRAND  PRIZE  WINNER  1989,  1984,  1982 

ROBERT  W.  MONTGOMERY 
LANDSCAPE  NURSERY 

Our  Only  Location: 

Route  113,  Chester  Springs,  PA 

363-2477 

Open  7 Days  a Week 


DO  YOU  DREAD 
WRITING  YOUR  RESUME? 


THE  UNIQUE  BEAUTY  OF 
ORNAMENTAL  TREES 

Dealers  and  locators  of  large,  mature  standard 
and  rare  plant  material,  including  arboretum 
quality  specimens,  serving  landscape  archi- 
tects, designers,  contractors,  and  private  indivi- 
duals. 

Our  services  also  include: 

• planting  and  transplanting  of  large  trees 

• assessing  and  renovating  mature  collection  35 
and  estate  gardens 

• we  will  purchase  large  trees. 

TREE  TRANSFERS,  INC. 

(215)  635-2310 


JEAN  CICCARELLI 
GARDEN  DESIGN  & CARE 

Artistic  pruning,  planting,  clean-up  and  rehabili- 
tation of  your  small  city  garden. (21 5)  271-2073 


Established  flower  gardening  business  for  sale. 
20  exclusive  accounts  in  Morris  County,  NJ. 
Planting  and  weekly  care  of  annuals,  perennials. 
Interior  accounts  also.  $4,800.  Call  Marion  (201) 
285-9679. 


EXCLUSIVE  GARDEN  IMPRESSIONS 
ARTIST:  PETER  M.  LANGENBACH 

Professional  garden  painting  in  the  impression- 
istic style.  Free  on  site  photo  study  by  Artist.  All 
work  done  in  studio.  For:  Resume,  prices,  sizes, 
sample  paintings  call  (201)  362-5886. 


Let  us  do  it  for  you! 

We  specialize  in  horticultural  job  placement. 
Let  us  work  with  you  and  we  will  write  a 
resume  you  will  be  proud  to  send  out. 

VANTINE  ASSOCIATES 
HORTICULTURAL  JOB  PLACEMENT 
& SERVICES 
187  Buckshire  Drive 
Holland,  PA  18966 
(215)  364-5669 


Advertising  copy  should  be  submitted  8 weeks  before  issue  date:  November,  January,  March,  May,  July,  September.  Minimum  rate  $1 5.  Charges  based  on  $4.00  per 
line.  Less  10%  discount  for  two  or  more  consecutive  issues,  using  same  copy.  All  copy  should  be  accompanied  by  check  made  out  to  PENNSYLVANIA 
HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  and  sent  to  Joseph  Robinson,  GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


Monarch  butterfly  stops 
during  its  fall  migration 
to  feed  on  Buddleia 
davidii  ‘Peace’  at  the 

Scott  Arboretum.  See 




HE  MAGAZINE  OF  THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL 


in  this  issue 

3.  Bulbs,  Indoor  & Out 

Jean  Byrne 

4.  Bulbs  In  The  Landscape 

Joanna  Reed 

9.  Flowering  Bulbs: 

Spring  & Summer 

Walter  Chandoha 

13.  Hardy  Fall  & Winter 
Flowering  Bulbs 

Mary  Mills 

15.  Forcing  Bulbs  for  the 
Philadelphia  Flower  Show 

Walter  Fisher,  Jr. 

19.  Hybridizing  Daffodils  — 
American  Style 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen 

22.  Cultivating  Unusual 
Bulbs 

Lee  M.  Raden 


26.  Bulb  Sources 

Susie  Ganoe 

29.  Books  and  the  Green 
World:  Bulbs 

Julie  Morris 

32.  Species  Bulbs: 
Question  Your  Sources 

Faith  Campbell 

34.  Miniature  Daffodils 
in  the  Garden 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen 

36.  Index  to  Volume  17 
of  the  Green  Scene 

38.  Classified  Advertising 


Volume  17,  Number  6 July/August  1989 

THE  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY 
325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  19106 
Telephone:  215-625-8250 
Horticultural  Hotline:  215-922-8043 

Monday  through  Friday  9:30am  to  12  Noon  (Hotline  is  closed  in  December) 

Donald  L.  Felley  / Chair  Joseph  P Robinson  / Editorial  Assistant 

Jane  G.  Pepper  / President  Jean  Byrne  / Editor  Carol  C.  Lukens  / Editorial  Assistant 

PUBLICATIONS  COMMITTEE: 


Judy  Foley  / Chair 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  Steven  A.  Frowine  Anthony  A.  Lyle 

Walter  G.  Chandoha  Charles  W.  Heuser  L.  Wilbur  Zimmerman 

Natalie  Kempner 

Designer:  Julie  Baxendell,  Baxendells’  Graphic 

Separations:  Lincoln  Graphics  Printer:  Havertown  Printing 

Circulation  Consultant:  Anne  S.  Cunningham 
Membership  Information:  Linda  Davis,  625-8265 

THE  GREEN  SCENE,  (USPS  955580),  Volume  17,  No.  6,  published  bimonthly,  January,  March,  May, 
July,  September,  November,  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  a non-profit  membership 
organization  at  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  Subscription:  $8.50— Single  Copy:  $1.50. 
Second  class  postage  paid  at  Philadelphia,  PA  19106.  • POSTMASTER:  Send  address  change  to  THE 
GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 

® Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  1989 


Front  Cover 

Lilies  steal  the  show  from 
coreopsis  in  the  cutting  garden, 
photo  by  Walter  Chandoha 

Back  Cover 

Photo  by  Gottlieb  Hampfler.  Courtesy 
of  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens 


Green  Scene  subscriptions  are  part  < 

Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society 
Maryland  Horticultural  Society 
Frelinghuysen  Arboretum 


membership  benefits  for: 

Blithewold  Gardens  and  Arboretum 
Hershey  Gardens  of  Hershey,  PA 
Cox  Arboretum 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


BULBS 

INDOOR  fe?  OUT 

( including  Lilium  ‘ Jane  Pepper ’) 


® Zty  /ean  Byrne 

Since  our  first  Green  Scene  special  issue 
on  pruning  in  July,  1973,  we’ve  always 
devoted  the  July  issue  to  a single  topic  * 
No  matter  how  many  extra  copies  we  print, 
we  always  run  out  sooner  than  we  expect. 
It  seems  to  be  a favorite,  and  we  find 
people  tend  to  save  these  special  issues  for 
reference.  We  expect  no  less  for  this  col- 
lection of  stories  about  bulbs.  We’ve  added 
four  more  pages  to  accommodate  the  over- 
flow of  stories  and  even  moved  a super 
article  about  alliums  by  John  Swan  to  the 
September  issue  because  everyone  had  so 
much  relevant  material  we  couldn’t  pare  it 
down. 

This  issue  features  a group  of  “hot”  au- 
thors writing  about  a subject  they  know  a 
lot  about.  Walt  Chandoha  and  Mary  Mills 
give  a month-by-month  breakdown  on 
what’s  in  bloom  outdoors.  And  we  invited 
Joanna  Reed  to  write  about  bulbs  in  the 
landscape  for  this  issue,  because  her  gar- 
den is  so  exceptional.  Joanna’s  work  has 
been  featured  on  four  Green  Scene  covers, 
and  she  has  written  eloquently  about  her 
garden  in  The  American  Woman  s Garden 
(Rosemary  Verey  and  Ellen  Samuels,  A 
New  York  Graphic  Society  Book,  Little 
Brown  & Co.,  Boston,  1984).  Her  interest 
in  gardens  transcends  state  boundaries; 
while  president  of  the  Herb  Society  of 
America,  she  visited  at  least  100  herb  gar- 
dens all  over  the  country,  and  she  designed 
the  Fragrant  Garden  at  the  U.S.  National 
Arboretum  in  Washington,  D.C. 

It’s  appropriate  that  Kathryn  Andersen 
has  two  stories  in  this  issue;  she’s  president 
of  the  American  Daffodil  Society,  Ameri- 
can vice-president  of  the  North  American 
Lily  Society,  and  past  president  of  the 
Middle  Atlantic  Regional  Lily  group.  One 
of  her  stories  is  about  three  American  daf- 


fodil hybridizers,  a subject  she  knows  a lot 
about  because  she’s  a hybridizer  herself.  In 
fact,  Kathryn  Andersen  hybridized  the  soon- 
to-be-available  Lilium  ‘Jane  Pepper’  hon- 
oring PHS’s  president.  (For  more  details 
about  this  hybrid,  see  page  21.) 

When  we  were  planning  this  special  issue 
on  bulbs  more  than  a year  ago,  exuberant 
Walt  Fisher,  who  has  been  exhibiting  at 
the  Show  for  10  years,  said  he’d  like  to  do 
a survey  on  growing  techniques  among  the 
Flower  Show  bulb  exhibitors.  Smart.  He 
talked  to  seven  other  growers  and  finished 
his  article  about  a week  after  the  1989 
Show.  Did  he  leant  anything?  How  could 
he  not.  Can  he  teach  anything?  How  could 
he  not.  He  won  Runner-Up  in  the  Horti- 


cultural Sweepstakes  this  year  bolstered 
by  his  “Best  of  Day”  wins  in  the  Narcissus 
Division  on  all  three  days  of  horticultural 
judging,  and  second  place  for  his  beautiful 
bulb  exhibit  in  the  collections  class. 

“A  botanical  and  aesthetic  tour  de  force,” 
exclaimed  the  judges  of  co-exhibitor  Julie 
Morris  and  Lee  Raden’s  collection  of  46 
bulbs,  which  took  “Best  of  Day”  in  the 
1989  Philadelphia  Flower  Show  Horticul- 
tural Section  for  an  entry  of  two  or  more 
varieties  on  opening  day.  They  accom- 
plished this  miracle  with  Julie  gardening 
in  Newport,  Rhode  Island  and  Lee  in 
Phoenixville,  Pennsylvania.  Their  exhibit 
was  culled  from  200  plants  forced  over  a 
four-month  period.  Julie  writes  about  her 
favorite  old  bulb  books  and  Lee,  president 
of  the  American  Rock  Garden  Society, 
writes  about  cultivating  hard-to-grow  bulbs 
in  this  area. 

Susie  Ganoe  of  Princeton,  who  has  suc- 
cessfully exhibited  plants  from  her  green- 
house at  the  Show,  surveyed  people  all 
over  the  country,  tracking  down  the  best 
suppliers,  from  Massachusetts  to  Oregon 
to  the  Carolinas,  and  including  European 
suppliers  as  well.  She  had  the  best  local 
advice  possible  and  culled  the  list  on  page 
28  from  at  least  75  premium  bulb  suppli- 
ers. 

If  we  haven’t  answered  your  most  per- 
plexing question  about  bulbs  here,  let  us 
know.  One  of  our  readers  surely  knows  the 
answer,  or  maybe  we’ll  just  print  volume 
II,  Bulbs. 


*For  information  about  other  topics,  check  your 
Green  Scene  15-Year  Index  Volume  1-15.  If  you 
don’t  have  an  Index  see  the  1988-89  Index  at  the 
back  of  this  issue  for  information  on  ordering  a 
copy.  The  annual  Index  always  appears  in  the  July 
issue. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


photo  by  Joanna  Reed 


4 


BULBS  IN  THE 


(^)  By  Joanne, 


L&Nnsr.tfl$* 


V, 

let 

rj  ; 

- ; \ 

Old  pheasant’s  eye  narcissus  {N.  poeticus.) 


Bulbs,  although  a single  element  in 
the  landscape,  combine  with  trees, 
shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants  to 
make  gardens  lively  and  enchanting.  They 
represent  the  far  reaches  of  our  world,  their 
blossoms,  exotic  and  beautiful,  attracted 
the  attention  of  adventurers,  crusaders,  and 
traders.  Recognized  as  valuable  curiosities 
they  became  items  of  trade  along  with  silks 
and  spices.  Their  viable  parts,  formed  into 


the  intricate,  clever  package  we  call  a bulb, 
were  able  to  survive  slow  travel,  thus  they 
spread  across  seas  and  continents. 

Hardy  bulbs  are  undemanding.  Know- 
ing about  their  natural  habitat  helps  us 
provide  a growing  situation  suitable  for 
their  needs.  Differing  exposures  to  sun  and 
weather  can  extend  the  bloom  span  of  each 
type  of  bulb  for  up  to  three  weeks.  On 
schedule  they  annually  reappear  in  ever- 


increasing  quantities.  Snowdrops  ( Galan - 
thus  spp.)  and  winter  aconite  ( Eranthis 
hyemalis)  pop  up  on  the  first  warm  days  of 
February  to  proclaim  spring.  A frigid  spell 
sends  them  into  tight  bud  to  await,  un- 
harmed, the  next  burst  of  sun  and  warmth. 
They  are  the  first.  Cyclamen  hederifolium 
and  the  autumn  crocus  are  the  last,  bright- 
ening the  garden  well  into  November. 

Bulbs  will  add  color  and  panache  to 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


every  conceivable  landscape.  Now  very 
definitely  is  the  time  to  decide  where  and 
how  to  fit  the  next  dozens,  hundreds  or 
thousands  into  your  own  personal  land- 
scape. 

in  limited  areas 

How  bright  and  cheery  are  pots,  win- 
dow boxes  and  containers  full  or  narcissus 
or  tulips  underplanted  with  pansies,  for- 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


get-me-nots  or  smaller  bulbs.  Why  not 
repeat  such  a splash  later  in  the  season 
with  lilies,  crocosmias,  caladiums  or  lower 
growing  cannas.  Grow  them  on  in  pots, 
the  correct  size,  to  fit  as  liners,  into  your 
containers.  The  possibilities  are  exciting 
and  limitless. 

I use  bulbs  throughout  the  entire  garden. 


If  you  have  trouble  with  voles  and/or 
rodents,  celandine  poppy  (Stylopho- 
rum  diphyllum)  is  a desperation  sub- 
stitute for  tasty  bulbs. 


Bases  of  walls  are  great  places.  Usually 
the  ground  is  dry  in  the  summer;  bulbs 
won’t  rot  for  the  same  reason  most  plants 
won’t  prosper.  If  it  is  a garden  wall,  or 


even  a hedge  serving  as  a backdrop  for 
perennial  beds,  plant  bulbs  for  a succes- 
sion of  color  and  moods.  Mass  the  varie- 
ties for  impact.  Mulch  well  after  planting. 
Next  season,  after  the  foliage  has  died  back, 
you  have  a handy  path  to  use  while  staking 
and  deadheading  the  taller  plants  in  the 
rear  of  the  border.  If  the  wall  edges  a lawn, 
use  the  smaller  bulbs  such  as  crocus,  scilla, 
chionodoxa,  snowdrops,  aconite  or  ane- 
mone so  they  can  seed  themselves  into  the 
lawn.  Their  foliage  disappears  so  quickly 
it  will  cause  no  problems  with  lawn  mow- 
ing. The  same  bulbs  plus  Cyclamen  he- 
derifolium  are  enchanting  drifted  at  the 
base  of  specimen  trees. 

Clumps  of  bulbs  tucked  at  the  edge  of 
steps  or  in  the  comers  of  paths  defy  the 
short-cutters-of-the-world  to  trod  on  their 
welcome  brave  bright  green  spikes.  In 

continued 


Eranthis  hyemalis.  winter  aconite. 


5 


photo  by  George  Reed 


photo  by  Franziska  Huxley 


6 


dormancy  they  are  safe  from  trespassers’ 
feet.  The  waste  space  under  fences  is  a 
likely  spot  to  use.  I have  planted  deep  blue 
Scilla  siberica  ‘Spring  Beauty’  in  combi- 
nation with  an  apricot  Viola  odorata,  a 
good  spreader  vigorous  enough  to  sup- 
press weeds.  Any  violet  or  any  of  the  Ajuga 
reptans  would  work  equally  well. 

Deciduous  shrubs  in  borders,  as  part  of 
a foundation  planting  or  as  lawn  speci- 
mens beg  to  have  drifts  of  the  lesser  bulbs 
about  their  feet.  They  readily  multiply,  their 
beauty  increasing  each  year  without  cost 
or  labor. 

interplanting  in  beds  and  borders 

True,  if  one  interplants  bulbs  in  flower 
beds  and  borders,  the  inevitable  sequence 
will  be  an  occasional  chopped  or  stabbed 
victim.  But  the  natural  increase  compen- 
sates for  such  a tragedy.  Advance  plan- 
ning is  wise.  Peonies,  Baptisia , Dictamnus 
(gas  plant),  and  Gypsophila  (baby’s  breath), 
are  all  deep  rooted  plants,  with  an  equally 
deep  aversion  to  being  transplanted.  Their 
ultimate  size  demands  space,  leaving 
ground  room  for  daffodils  or  tulips.  This  is 
also  true  of  daylilies  ( Hemerocallis ),  red 
hot  pokers  ( Kniphofias ),  hostas  and  Sibe- 
rian iris.  The  emerging  foliage  will  com- 
pliment the  blooming  bulbs  and  later  hide 


Scilla  campanulata  ‘Alba’  interplanted  with 
forget-me-nots  and  yarrows. 


their  dying  leaves.  Interplanting  among  bi- 
ennials or  oriental  poppies,  whose  foliage 
disappears  during  the  summer,  is  another 
possibility.  By  mid-June  the  space  is  empty 
and  can  be  bedded  with  shallow  rooted 
annuals  on  top  of  the  now  dormant  bulbs. 


I wonder  still,  did  my  voles  develop  a 
taste  for  garlic-flavored  tulip  bulbs? 


Dutch  crocus,  miniature  narcissus,  Triteleia 
or  other  small  bulbs  are  charming  coming 
through  edging  plants,  such  as,  Iberis  sem- 
pervirens  (hardy  candytuft).  Phlox  stolonif- 
era  (creeping  phlox),  thyme  and  Nepeta 
mussinii  (blue  catmint)  along  the  front 
edges  of  the  border.  Allium  senescens  glau- 
cum  belong  here  also,  the  blue-green  spi- 
ral twist  of  its  leaves  is  an  asset  all  sum- 
mer. Alliums,  incidentally  are  wonderful 
decorative  bulbs,  and  different  varieties 
will  give  flowers  from  May  to  September. 

Unless  you  feel  compelled  to  till  your 
vegetable  garden  annually  to  great  depths, 
tulips,  narcissus,  camassias  may  be  rowed 
out  for  a good  supply  of  cut  flowers.  Plant 
12  or  14  inches  deep  and  mulch.  Lettuce, 


chard,  bush  beans  etc.  can  be  planted  on 
top. 

planning  for  transitions,  shade 

Since  it  is  vital  for  next  year’s  bloom  to 
allow  foliage  to  ripen,  plant  pleasing  over- 
all shapes  for  areas  to  be  naturalized.  They 
should  be  easy  to  mow  around  especially 
if  in  lawns.  The  natural  growth  of  a meadow 
will  hide  the  decaying  foliage.  In  an  urban 
garden  keep  the  naturalized  bulbs  to  the 
edge  of  the  lawn  or  create  the  ambience  of 
a country  garden  with  one  or  two  wilder 
spots.  Hesperis  matronalis  (sweet  rocket), 
Digitalis  purpurea  (foxglove).  Lobelia  si- 
philitica  (blue  lobelia)  and  Rudbeckia 
‘Goldsturm’  (black-eyed-susan)  reseed 
readily  and  would  be  good  for  overplanting 
such  an  area.  Scale  is  the  thing;  in  limited 
space  a few  plants  achieve  the  same  effect 
as  the  multitudes  needed  in  a meadow. 

In  a shady  garden  or  in  the  woods  use 
the  earlier  blooming  bulb  varieties.  Their 
foliage  must  ripen  while  the  sun  can  still 
penetrate.  Trees  pruned  to  give  high  shade, 
wide  pathways  and  clearings  (if  it  is  a 
sizable  woods)  allow  extra  light.  Scilla 
campanulata , sometimes  called  Endymion , 
is  one  of  the  best  bloomers  in  shade,  as  any 
visitor  to  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gar- 
dens in  Delaware  well  knows. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


favorite  combinations 

A few  of  my  better  combinations  have 
been: 

• A sweep  of  winter  aconite  beneath  Ha- 
mamelis  mollis , the  Chinese  witch  ha- 
zel, all  glowing  gold  for  weeks.  This 
fall  I plan  to  add  the  bright  lavender 
saffron  crocus  ( Crocus  sativus)  to 
compliment  the  witch  hazel’s  yellow 
autumn  leaves. 

• Erythronium  albidum  ‘Giant  White,’ 
Muscari  botryoides  (the  white  form), 
and  Fritillaria  meleagris  (Guinea-hen- 
flower),  planted  among  Viola  labra- 
dorica,  a favorite  of  Shakespeare’s,  the 
pale  yellow,  fragrant  hose-in-hose 
primrose  against  a background  of  the 
ephemeral  soft  yellow  flowers  of  Epi- 
medium  ‘Sulphureum.’ 

• The  miniature  Narcissus  ‘Hawera’and 
Scilla  siberica  ‘Spring  Beauty’  planted 
among  Christmas  and  maidenhair  fern, 
along  with  the  bronze  leaved  Ajuga 
reptans. 

• ‘Mrs.  R.  O.  Blackhouse,’  an  early  de- 
veloped pink  narcissus,  and  Mertensia 
virginica  growing  along  the  back  of  a 
border  among  the  vivid  green  stemmed 
clumps  of  Kerria  japonica. 

• N.  ‘Thalia’  planted  with  Pulmonaria , 
especially  nice  is  P.  angustifolia. 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


Muscari,  Narcissus  ‘Trevithian’  in  distance, 
Stylophorum  on  right. 


• Drifts  of  N.  ‘February  Gold,’  for  early 
bloom,  and  N.  ‘Pink  Fancy’  for  later 
bloom  among  blue  Phlox  divaricata , 
bright  magenta  Lunaria  annua 
(moneyplant),  Iberis  sempervirens 
(candytuft),  and  the  wonderful  bronze/ 
green,  round,  scalloped,  leaves  of  Heu- 
chera , coral  bells.  Deeper  back  in  the 
border  N.  ‘Geranium’  blooms  last  of 
all,  tall  enough  to  be  showy  among  the 
now  fully  developed  perennial  foliage. 

• N.  ‘Mt.  Hood’  placed  adjacent  to  a 
large  patch  of  Helleborus  niger  and  H. 
orientalis  work  well.  The  lime  green 
and  mauvy  pinks  of  the  fading  lenten 
and  Christmas  roses  lend  a richness  to 
the  scene  while  ‘Mt.  Hood’  adds  a clear 
white  punch. 

• N.  trevithian , fragrant,  intensely  lemon 
yellow,  is  eye  catching  near  the  char- 
treuse blossoms  of  Euphorbia  epithy- 
moides  (formerly  Polychroma)  and  the 
deep  blue  spikes  of  Muscari  (grape 
hyacinth). 

• Clumps  of  the  old  pheasant  eye  narcis- 
sus interplanted  with  earlier  blooming 
yellow  trumpet  daffodils  will  add 
weeks  of  enjoyment  to  the  same  spot. 


Incorporate  a drift  or  two  of  the  self- 
seeding  wild  red  columbine  ( Aquile - 
gia  canadensis)  for  excitement  and  a 
few  rosettes  of  bold  Bergenia  cordifo- 
lia  for  a punch. 

• The  silver  markings  on  the  deep  green 
foliage  of  the  hardy  Cyclamen  hederi- 
folium  is  a wonderful  foil  for  Anemone 
blanda.  1 personally  prefer  planting 
them  by  color,  not  using  a mixture. 

• If  you  have  trouble  with  voles  and/or 
rodents,  celandine  poppy  ( Stylophorum 
diphyllum)  is  a desperation  substitute 
for  tasty  bulbs.  Its  yellow  tulip-shaped 
blossoms  are  a great  attention  getter 
for  low  key  blue  flowering  bulbs,  such 
as  Chionodoxa,  Muscari  or  Triteleia , 
sometimes  called  Ipheion. 

tulips 

Tulips  I adore  and  nothing  can  really 
substitute  for  their  unique  grace  and  charm. 
The  animals  who  share  my  acres  share  my 
taste  in  plants.  Deer  and  rabbits  eat  foli- 
age, buds  and  flowers,  voles  and  mice 
hungrily  eat  the  bulbs.  Long  ago  I gave  up 
attempting  to  foil  the  varmints  by  planting 
in  cans  and  cages,  resigning  myself  to 
enjoying  these  wonderful  flowers  in  other 
persons’  gardens.  Tulipa  praestans  ‘Fusil- 
ier’ has  survived  the  longest  and  is  very 

continued 


7 


photo  by  Joanna  Reed 


photo  by  Joanna  Reed 


8 


showy  with  white  Arabis.  Reading  that  the 
onion  family  repelled  rodents,  I planted 
drifts  of  Tulipa  tarda  (or  T.  dasystemon) 
together  with  Allium  moly.  Blooming  a 
month  apart  they  produced  an  extended 
show.  Their  willingness  to  spread  by  self- 
seeding  was  a bonus.  They  thrived  and 
increased  for  a number  of  years  then  sud- 
denly vanished.  I wonder  still,  did  my  voles 
develop  a taste  for  garlic-flavored  tulip 
bulbs? 

Spring  is  certainly  not  the  only  time  for 
bulbs.  Various  lilies  bloom  elegantly 
throughout  the  summer.  Being  a gourmet 
item  for  my  animal  friends,  my  success 
has  been  minimal.  Lycorus  or  the  Resur- 
rection lily  makes  its  leaves  in  early  spring, 
but  blooms  on  leafless  stems  in  August. 

Marie  Aull,  in  her  Dayton,  Ohio  garden 
Aullwood,  (open  to  the  public*)  has  natu- 
ralized Lycorus  squamigera  in  her  woods. 
Being  a mature  well  managed  woods,  shafts 
of  sun  spotlight,  at  least,  thirty  drifts  of 
delicate  pink  Lycorus  with  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  blossoms  in  each  drift.  A 
more  beautiful  or  enchanting  sight  I never 

*Aullwood  Audubon  Center  & Farm 
1000  Aullwood  Rd. 

Dayton,  Ohio  45414 
(513)  890-7360 


Tulipa  ‘Bond  Street’ 


expect  to  see  — it  is  pure  magic.  Magic, 
which  began  as  a labor  of  love  in  1927 
with  a few  gift  bulbs. 

The  spectacular  clumps  of  Crocosmia 
‘Lucifer’  in  Sir  John  Thouron’s  garden 
make  me  wish  I had  years  and  years  more 
in  which  to  garden  to  produce  such  spec- 
tacular results.  Instead  I must  be  satisfied 
with  the  beginnings  of  stands  of  Colchicum , 
(autumn  crocus)  Sternbergia  and  hardy 
Cyclamen.  In  my  mind’s  eye  these  sum- 
mer and  fall  bloomers  grow  in  great  sweeps. 
In  reality  there  are  only  a few  small  em- 
bryo patches  of  each.  The  Cyclamen  her- 
derifolium  with  the  blue  Anemone  blanda 
have  been  increasing.  Sternbergia  finally 
seems  happy  in  the  heat  and  drought  at  the 
base  of  a house  wall.  My  Lycorus  has 
multiplied,  been  divided  and  multiplied 
again  but  bloom  meagerly.  I hope  a few  of 
these  experiments  will  prosper  enough  to 
catch  a gardener’s  attention  and  care  in  the 
future.  Meanwhile  I marvel  at  the  extent  to 
which  my  spring  bulbs  have  spread  and 
enjoy  heavenly  displays  planted  and  shared 
by  other  gardeners,  some  even  planted  in 
past  centuries. 

George,  my  husband,  and  I fell  in  love 


with  the  Virginia  fields  and  meadows 
awash  with  yellow  daffodils  or  bright  blue 
Muscari,  on  our  wedding  trip,  bulbs  truly 
naturalized.  We  promptly  purchased  a 
bushel  of  mixed  Narcissus  in  1940.  Their 
progeny  have  been  widespread.  A small 
investment  for  a collection  a few  years 
later,  five  bulbs  each  of  ten  varieties, 
brought  us,  ‘John  Evelyn,’  “Edward 
Buxton,’  “Tunis,’  ‘Carboneer,’  ‘Selma 
Lagerlof,’  ‘Horace,’  ‘Mary  Copeland,’ 
‘King  Alfred,’  the  ‘Duke  of  Windsor’  and 
‘Twink.’  Not  illustrious  guests,  but  sturdy 
permanent  residents,  reliable  producers. 

Each  year  more  bulbs  have  been  added: 
some  purchased,  some  gifts,  many  home- 
grown, at  least  500-1,000.  Remember,  I 
said  scale  is  the  thing,  acres  take  multi- 
tudes. Many  a smaller  garden  has  turned 
me  green  with  envy. 

I hope  you  agree,  midsummer  is  a fine 
time  to  think  bulbs. 

• 

After  gardening  for  49  years,  Joanna  Reed  says 
she  still  enthusiastically  plans  for  the  future  of 
her  garden.  A frequent  contributor  to  Green 
Scene,  her  work  has  been  featured  on  at  least 
four  covers.  See  editorial  for  additional  bio- 
graphical details. 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


photo  by  Walter  Chandoha 


FLOWERINGBULBS: 


Although  we  call  them  bulbs,  those 
fat,  swollen  “roots”  we  plant  in 
the  fall  and  spring  are  not  all  bulbs, 
Some  are.  Others  are  tubers,  corms,  rhi- 
zomes, pips  and  tuberous  roots. 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


(^)  By  Walter  Chandoha 

Bulbs  — true  bulbs  — are  miracles  or 
packaging.  Think  of  true  bulbs  as  big,  fat, 
protected  flower  buds.  Each  contains  an 
embryonic  flower  and  leaves  neatly  en- 
cased in  layers  of  life-sustaining,  fleshy, 


protective  scales.  Bulbs  can  grow  and 
flower  without  further  enrichment.  Some, 
like  hyacinths  and  paper-whites,  will  even 
flower  when  grown  in  water.  Tulips,  nar- 
cissus, hyacinths,  lilies  and  alliums  are  true 

continued 


Illustrations  by  Peter  Loewer 

Bringing  the  Outdoors  In,  Walker  & Co.,  NY  1974. 


FLOWERINGBULBS:  SPRING&SUMMER 


circled  with  leaves.  Lily  bulbs  (2)  have  fewer 
and  more  fleshy  leaves. 


Corms  are  a series  of  underground  stems  that  are 
squeezed  into  a short,  broad,  and  fleshy  pack- 
age. A gladiolus  corm  showing  a tiny  lateral 
bud;  if  a corm  bears  small  lateral  buds  on  its  sur- 
face, it  lasts  only  one  growing  season,  and  a new 
corm  is  formed  on  top  of  the  old. 


Tubers  are  modified  stolons  or  underground 
stems  swollen  with  stored  food.  The  sweet  po- 
tato, potato,  and  tuberous  begonia  are  tubers. 


10 


Rhizomes  are  perennial  stems  that  are  short  and 
thick  and  give  rise  to  aboveground  branches. 
Iris,  violets,  and  orchids  grow  from  rhizomes. 


Cactus  type  Dahlia  ‘Border  Princess’ 


bulbs.  Some  true  bulbs  live  many  years  in 
their  original  form  constantly  growing 
larger.  They  multiply  by  splitting  and  by 
making  offsets  of  tiny  clones  adjacent  to 
the  parent  or  along  the  stems. 

Corms  closely  resemble  bulbs  but  do  not 
have  layered  scales  and  each  year  after 
blooming  the  old  “bulbs”  rot  away  to  be 
replaced  by  new  ones.  Crocus  and  gladi- 
olus are  corms  and  the  clones  that  grow 
alongside  the  parents  are  called  cormels. 
They  take  several  years  to  grow  to  full  size 
corms. 

Tubers  are  swollen  underground  stems 
with  “eyes”  from  which  new  growth 
emerges.  The  flesh  of  the  tuber  sustains 
the  plants  until  new  roots  develop  to  ex- 
tract moisture  and  nourishment  from  the 
surrounding  soil.  Irish  potatoes  are  tubers 
as  are  tuberous  begonias,  cyclamen  and 
anemonies. 

Rhizomes  are  thick  fleshy  stems  that  grow 
horizontally  on  or  just  below  the  soil’s 
surface.  As  with  tubers  these  fleshy  parts 
help  feed  the  plant  but  they  do  not  rot 
away  after  a season’s  growth.  More  rhi- 
zomes develop  from  the  old  ones  spread- 
ing out  in  octopus  fashion.  They  are  all 
firmly  anchored  to  the  soil  by  feeder  roots. 
Bearded  iris  and  Solomon’s  seal  grow  from 
rhizomes. 

Tuberous  roots  are  swollen  roots  with 
eyes  or  buds  that  develop  into  stems.  Unlike 
tubers  which  have  many  eyes,  tuberous 
roots  have  very  few  and  need  to  be  treated 
with  care.  If  the  eyes  are  broken  off  you’ll 
get  no  plants.  Dahlias  and  peonies  have 
tuberous  roots. 

Pips.  Lily-of-the-valley  grow  from  pips. 
These  dormant  crowns  are  small  swollen 
blisters  attached  to  a mass  of  intertwined 
roots.  Florists  (and  gardeners)  dig  lily-of- 
the-valley  roots  in  the  fall  and  store  the 
pips  in  refrigerators  until  needed  for  forc- 
ing in  late  winter  and  early  spring. 

hardy  and  tender 

For  the  sake  of  brevity  many  gardeners 
call  all  of  these  root  forms  flowering  bulbs. 
More  important  than  knowing  which  is 
truly  a bulb,  corm  or  tuber  is  knowing 
which  are  hardy  or  which  are  tender.  Hardy 
bulbs  are  usually  planted  in  the  fall  for 
spring  and  summer  blooms.  Tender  bulbs 
are  planted  in  spring  after  the  last  antici- 
pated frost  date  for  summer  and  fall  flow- 
ering. Hardy  bulbs  can  be  left  in  the  ground 
through  the  winter.  Tender  bulbs  cannot 
take  freezing  and  must  be  dug  up  and  stored 


under  cover  at  40-50°F.  through  the  win- 
ter. 

soil 

Hardy  or  tender,  all  flowering  bulbs  have 
a common  need  — they  grow  best  when 
planted  in  a humus-rich,  easy-draining  soil. 
Given  this  environment,  hardy  and  tender 
bulbs  will  thrive  and  multiply.  If  hardy 
bulbs  are  fall-planted  in  heavy,  water- 
logged soils  write  them  off  as  annuals  — 
they’ll  bloom  the  spring  or  summer  after 
planting  but  in  succeeding  years  you’ll  get 


More  important  than  knowing  which 
is  truly  a bulb,  corm  or  tuber  is  know- 
ing which  are  hardy  or  which  are 
tender. 


fewer  flowers,  if  any.  Bulbs  quickly  rot  in 
heavy  soil. 

When  planted  in  the  fall,  ground  mois- 
ture and  lingering  warmth  triggers  growth. 
In  Zones  4-5-6-7  air  temperatures  may  be 
cold  but  the  soil  stays  a comfortable  45- 
55°F.  for  several  months  — perfect  for 
bulb  root  growth.  This  growth  continues 
until  ground  temperatures  drop  below  40°. 
Then  the  bulbs  go  into  a second  dormant 
period  and  take  a winter  snooze.  As  winter 
wanes  and  the  soil  slowly  gets  warmer, 
growth  resumes  and  eventually  the  bulbs 
flower. 

planting 

For  natuarlizing  bulbs  in  meadows  and 
woods  a bulb  planter*  might  prove  useful. 
It’s  also  good  to  use  if  your  soil  is  sandy  or 
naturally  high  in  humus.  But  for  tight  clay 
soils  bulb  planters  are  useless.  Better  to 
dig  out  the  area  to  be  planted  and  enrich 
the  hole  with  a 50/50  mixutre  of  sand  and 
peat  moss  or  compost.  Assuming  a hole 
18"  in  diameter  and  12"  deep,  fill  the 
bottom  4"  with  the  mixture,  add  an  inch  of 
sand,  place  the  bulbs  on  the  sand  4-5" 
apart  then  cover  with  more  of  the  sand/ 
compost  mix.  A dozen  bulbs  planted  in  the 
18"  hole  will  make  an  impressive  cluster 
of  flowers  in  the  spring.  Bulbs  look  better 
planted  in  clumps  rather  than  in  single- 
file, soldier-like  rows.  Restrict  row  plant- 
ing to  the  cutting  garden.  Water  the  beds 
immediately  after  planting. 

After  the  top  2-3  inches  of  soil  freezes, 
mulch  with  chopped  leaves  to  keep  the 
ground  frozen.  The  mulch  prevents  alter- 
nate thawing  and  freezing,  which  some- 

* Available  in  garden  centers. 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


photo  by  Walter  Chandoha 


Iris  ‘Royal  Satin’ 

times  loosens  roots,  which  in  turn  tends  to 
diminish  the  quality  of  top  growth  in  the 
spring. 

how  deep  to  plant 

Depends  on  the  soil.  In  light  sandy  soils 
plant  about  four  times  the  height  of  the 
bulb.  In  heavier  soils  about  triple  the  height. 
Where  winters  are  severe  plant  deeper  to 
give  bulbs  added  protection  from  deep 
freezes.  A good  guesstimate  on  planting 
depth:  big  fat  bulbs  like  lilies,  imperial 
frittilaria  and  larger  allium,  7-10"  deep; 
medium  bulbs  — most  of  the  tulips,  daffo- 
dils and  gladiolus  — around  6";  and  tiny 
bulbs,  1-2".  With  the  majority  of  bulbs 
depth  is  not  that  critical.  They  generally 
seek  their  preferred  level  after  being  in  the 

the  green  scene  t july  1989 


ground  for  a season  or  two.  A couple  of 
exceptions  where  exact  depth  is  desirable: 
plant  iris  just  below  the  soil’s  surface  and 
the  eye  of  the  peony  should  be  2"  under 
the  soil. 

delayed  outdoor  planting 
Ideally,  hardy  bulbs  are  best  planted  early 
in  the  fall  to  give  the  roots  plenty  of  time 
to  grow  before  winter  dormancy  sets  in. 
But  suppose  you  don’t  have  the  time  to 
plant  already  purchased  bulbs  in  Septem- 
ber or  October?  No  problem.  Store  the 
bulbs  in  the  refrigerator.  Then  go  out  and 
mulch  the  area  where  the  bulbs  are  to  be 
planted  with  6- 1 0 inches  of  chopped  leaves 
— at  least  enough  to  keep  the  ground 
underneath  from  freezing.  Additionally, 


store  a couple  of  pails  of  peat  moss  under- 
cover where  it  won’t  freeze. 

As  time  permits  in  November,  Decem- 
ber, even  January  (I’ve  planted  tulip  bulbs 
on  New  Year’s  Day  and  have  had  them 
bloom  in  May)  rake  aside  the  mulch,  dig 
the  site  and  plant  as  you  would  in  early 
fall.  If  the  soil  needs  amending  use  the 
indoor-stored  peat  moss.  Saturate  the  area 
after  planting,  then  cover  again  with  the 
chopped  leaves  to  keep  the  soil  unfrozen. 

watering 

After  planting,  water  all  bulbs  thoroughly, 
completely  saturating  the  soil.  In  most  areas 
fall  rains  and  winter  snows  are  adequate  to 
keep  the  bulbs  moist,  healthy  and  happy. 
In  the  spring  when  growth  resumes,  again 
saturate  the  soil  if  winter  snows  and  rains 
have  been  lacking.  During  flowering  and 
later  when  the  bulb’s  leaves  are  recharging 
their  underground  roots  for  next  year’s 
growth,  an  abundance  of  water  is  again 
essential.  Use  the  hose  if  nature  is  negli- 
gent. 

feeding  bulbs 

When  I plant  my  bulbs  they  get  a big  pinch 
of  fertilizer  under  the  sand  under  each  bulb. 
Established  beds  are  fertilized  twice  dur- 
ing the  growing  year  — in  the  spring  when 
leaves  are  about  to  appear  and  again  after 
the  flowers  are  deadheaded.  I use  a combi- 
nation of  wood  ashes  and  Milorganite  — 
several  generous  handsful  of  each  — broad- 
cast over  each  clump.  Any  all-purpose 
fertilizer  can  also  be  used.  Apply  fertilizer 
when  foliage  is  dry  and  water  it  in  imme- 
diately. 

after  care 

What  you  do  with  your  spring  bulbs  after 
they  flower  determines  how  well  the  bulbs 
will  bloom  next  year.  First,  prune  out  all 
spent  flowers  to  prevent  seed  formation. 
Do  not  cut  away  green  leaves.  Leaves 
supply  sustenance  to  the  bulbs,  recharging 
them  for  next  year’s  growth.  After  the 

continued 


To  Mark  Bulb  Locations 

To  mark  where  bulbs  are  located  in  our 
perennial  border  I place  next  to  them  a 
small  green  bathroom  tile,  which  pre- 
vents digging  into  them  later  in  the  sea- 
son. To  mark  where  new  bulbs  are  to  be 
planted  in  the  autumn,  I place  an  old 
brick.  The  brick  is  covereed  by  plants  as 
the  season  progresses,  yet  is  easy  to  find 
when  planting  time  comes. 

George  R.  Clark 


photo  by  Walter  Chandoha 


Darwin  type  yellow  tulip,  ‘Golden  Appeldoom’ 


leaves  turn  from  green  to  tan  it’s  safe  to 
remove  them. 

A good  way  to  beat  the  unsightly  foliage 
problem  — interplant  other  perennials  with 
hardy  bulbs.  Perennials  make  fast  growth 
in  the  spring,  their  foliage  quickly  covers 
the  bulbs’  leaves.  Additionally,  annuals 
planted  over  the  bulb  beds  quickly  hide 
the  dying  bulb  foliage.  After  the  first  frost 
prune  out  foliage  of  lilies,  iris  and  day- 
lilies. 

cut  flowers 

The  blooms  of  flowering  bulbs  make 
excellent  cut  flowers  — they’re  colorful, 
long-lasting  and  some  are  fragrant.  Cut  no 
more  than  one  leaf  per  flower  stalk  when 
harvesting  tulips,  daffodils  and  lilies-of- 
the-valley.  And  even  with  leafy  peonies 
1 2 and  dahlias,  the  fewer  leaves  removed  with 
the  flower  the  better.  Lilies  are  impressive 
when  tall-growing  varieties  are  used  in  tall 
vases.  But  if  you  want  lots  of  blooms  next 
year,  cut  the  lilies  with  a minimum  amount 
of  stem.  Clusters  of  lilies  bunched  in  short 
vases  or  even  floating  in  shallow  bowls 
can  make  attractive  — and  impressive  — 
indoor  bouquets. 

To  have  an  adequate  supply  of  bulb 
flowers  for  cutting  for  indoor  bouquets, 
plant  several  rows  in  the  vegetable  garden, 
or  in  a designated  cutting  garden.  After  the 
flowers  are  harvested,  overplant  the  bulb 
rows  of  tulips  and  daffodils  with  annual 
seedlings. 

• 

Photographer/writer  Walter  Chandoha’s  work 
has  appeared  in  many  national  publications 
including  the  New  York  Times,  Fine  Gardening, 
Organic  Gardening  and  Ladies  Home  Journal. 
His  photos  have  been  featured  on  more  than 
300  magazine  covers. 


Spring  and  Summer  Flowering  Bulbs 

Common  Name 

Bloom  Time 

Height 

Hardy  H 

(inches) 

Tender  T 

Narcissus 

paper-white 

Jan-April  (indoors) 

14/18 

T 

Freesia 

Freesia 

Feb-April  (indoors) 

12/18 

T 

Anemone 

windflower 

March-April 

5/6 

H 

Arisaema 

jack-in-the-pulpit 

March-May 

12/15 

H 

Chionodoxa 

glory-of-the-snow 

March-April 

5/8 

H 

Crocus 

crocus 

March-April 

5/6 

H 

Fritillaria 

checkered  lily 

March-April 

10/12 

H 

Galanthus 

snowdrop 

March-April 

3/4 

H 

Iris  reticulata 

iris 

March-May 

3/6 

H 

Puschkinia 

striped  squill 

March-April 

4/5 

H 

Trillium 

wake  robin 

March-May 

8/14 

H 

Begonia 

begonia 

April-Sept. 

12/18 

H 

Caladium 

angel  wings 

April-Oct.  (leaves) 

12/18 

T 

Endymion 

bluebells 

April-May 

10/18 

H 

Erythronium 

trout  lily 

April-May 

6/7 

H 

Fritillaria 

crown  imperial 

April-May 

24/36 

H 

Hyacinthus 

hyacinth 

April-May 

8/12 

H 

Leucojum 

snowflake 

April-May 

14/16 

H 

Muscari 

grape  hyacinth 

April-May 

6/7 

H 

Narcissus 

daffodil 

April-May 

10/20 

H 

Ornithogalum 

star  of  bethlehem 

April-May 

8/12 

H 

Tulipa 

tulip 

April-May 

4/30 

H 

Allium 

flowering  onion 

May-July 

10/60 

H 

Canna 

canna 

May-Sept. 

24/60 

T 

Clivia 

kaffir  lily 

May-June 

18/24 

T 

Convallaria 

lily  of  the  valley 

May-June 

6/10 

H 

Eremurus 

desert  candle 

May-June 

30/50 

H 

Iris 

bearded  iris 

May-June 

24/30 

H 

Iris 

dutch  iris 

May-June 

19/30 

H 

Paeonia 

peony 

May-June 

18/24 

H 

Scilla 

Siberian  squill 

May-June 

10/12 

H 

Colocasia 

elephant  ear 

June-Oct.  (leaves) 

36/72 

T 

Gladiolus 

gladiola 

June-Aug 

30/36 

T 

Hemerocallis 

daylily 

June-Aug 

24/36 

H 

Lilium 

lily 

June-Aug 

18/36 

H 

Agapanthus 

lily-of-the-nile 

July-Aug 

12/48 

T 

Dahlia 

dahlia 

July-Oct. 

12/48 

T 

Lycoris 

spider  lily 

Aug-Sept 

12/24 

T/H 

Hippeastrum 

amaryllis 

Dec-March  (indoors) 

15/20 

T 

the  green  scene  / July  1989 


photos  by  Mary  Mills 


Galanthus  elwesii  blooms  in  March 


Hardy  Fall  & Winter 
Flowering  Buljfs 


Crocus  speciosus  blooms  in  October/November 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


What  do  we  mean  by  fall  and 
winter?  The  well-known  Eng- 
lish plantsman  E.  A.  Bowles 
devoted  the  first  chapter  of  his  book  My 
Garden  in  Spring,  (1914)*  to  defining  his 
concept  of  spring.  He  concludes  that  spring 
begins  with  the  blooming  of  Iris  unguicu- 
laris  — in  late  September  to  mid-October. 
My  definition  of  fall  is  not  quite  so  eccen- 
tric as  his  of  spring,  but  it  does  jump  the 
gun  on  the  autumnal  equinox:  early  to  mid- 
September  with  the  blooming  of  the  first 
colchicums  and  Sternhergia  lutea.  The  end 
of  winter  is  also  not  easy  to  define,  varying 
from  year  to  year  with  the  severity  of  the 
weather.  Again,  I assume  that  it  comes  a 
bit  before  March  21. 

The  bulbs  listed  in  the  following  chart 
are  ones  that  have  grown  well  and  flow- 
ered freely  either  in  my  garden  or  the  gar- 
dens of  friends.  The  list  is  by  no  means 
inclusive  of  all  available  bulbs  for  these 
seasons.  Its  purpose  is  to  guide  readers 
toward  selections  that  will  “pay  off’  in 
flowers.  You  won't  find  the  saffron  crocus 
(Crocus  sativus ),  which  can  be  very  stingy 
with  blooms  in  our  climate;  and  you  won’t 
find  the  autumn  snowflake  (Leucojum  au- 
tumnale ) which  is  easy  enough  to  grow, 
but  will  delight  only  lovers  of  minute 
things.  An  English  bulb  catalog  ( Cam- 
bridge Bulbs)  lists  31  different  autumn- 
flowering crocuses.  I’ve  listed  only  one  — 
Crocus  speciosus.  It  is  reliable  and  showy 
(which  is  what  “speciosus”  means.) 

While  the  chart  includes  brief  instruc- 
tions for  where  and  how  to  plant,  Walter 
Chandoha’s  instructions  for  planting  in 
humus  — rich,  easy-draining  soil  and  his 
“quesstimate”  for  depth  of  planting  will 
work  well  with  all  the  bulbs  on  the  list.  See 
page  9 to  12.  His  instructions  for  delayed 
planting,  while  quite  appropriate  for  tu- 
lips, obviously  won’t  apply  to  bulbs  that 
you  expect  to  bloom  shortly  after  you  have 
put  them  in  the  ground.  Especially  if  your 
bulbs  come  from  local  shops,  you  should 
try  to  purchase  and  plant  them  as  soon  as 
possible  after  they  become  available.  Col- 
chicums are  often  advertised  as  blooming 
on  the  window  sill.  They  will,  but  they 
will  look  much  better  in  the  ground. 

*Theophrastus  Press  reprint.  Pawlet,  VT,  1971 

continued 


13 


Hardy  Fall  and  Winter  Flowering  Bulbs 

Bulb 

Bloom 

Time 

Height  of 
Bloom 

Culture 

Uses 

Sternbergia  lutea 
lily  of  the  field 

Sept-Oct 

8" 

Plant  these  bulbs  4"  deep  in  a sunny,  well-drained  position,  prefera- 
bly in  July.  Bulbs  are  rarely  available  this  early,  but  later  plantings 
frequently  fail  to  become  established. 

These  bright  yellow  crocus-like  flowers  are  a cheerful 
sight  at  a time  when  most  things  in  the  garden  are  fading 
away.  Rock  garden,  borders,  in  front  of  shrubbery. 

Colchicum 
meadow  saffron  or 
commonly  but  incorrectly, 
autumn  crocus 
C.  autumnale 
C.  byzantinum 
C.  speciosum 

Hybrids  and  named  selections 
such  as  ‘The  Giant,'  'Water 
Lily,’  ‘Violet  Queen.’ 

Sept-Oct 

6-12" 

The  large  bulbs  are  planted  in  late  summer  or  early  fall,  with  the  top 
of  the  bulb  about  4"  deep.  They  bloom  without  leaves,  and  many 
varieties  tend  to  topple  over.  Slugs  may  damage  emerging  flower 
buds. 

Planted  in  a groundcover  such  as  pachysandra,  the  flowers 
get  the  support  they  need.  Also,  the  very  large  leaves  that 
appear  in  the  spring  and  that  have  to  be  left  until  they 
wither  will  be  less  conspicuous.  Daylilies  also  can  be  used 
to  hide  the  maturing  foliage. 

Begonia  grandis 
Hardy  begonia 

Sept-Oct 

15” 

Order  growing  plants  from  a nursery,  and  plant  them  in  the  spring. 
They  thrive  in  light  to  medium  shade  in  humusy  soil.  Growth  is 
quite  late  starting,  so  don't  disturb  the  soil  where  they  will  emerge. 
A very  cold  (-10°F)  winter  may  kill  them. 

Begonia  grandis  looks  best  planted  against  a wall,  where 
they  will  also  receive  some  winter  protection.  Colonies 
will  form  (unless  the  gardener  weeds  new  plants  out)  from 
bulbils  formed  in  the  leaf  axils.  They  bloom  at  the  same 
time  as  Tricyrtis  hirta. 

Scilla  aulumnaiis 

October 

6-10" 

These  pink  wands  are  easily  grown  in  ordinary  soil  in  a sunny  spot. 
Plant  3"  deep. 

Rock  garden,  border. 

There  seems  to  be  no  commercial  source  for  this  in  the 
United  States  at  present. 

Arisaema  triphyltum 
jack-in-the-pulpit 

Spring 

12" 

Though  not  an  autumn-flowering  bulb,  jack-in-the-pulpit  is  very 
showy  in  Sept-Oct  because  of  its  brilliant  red  seed  clusters.  Order 
tubers  from  wild  flower  nurseries  for  fall  or  very  early  spring 
planting.  Choose  a moist  woodland  location,  and  plant  3"  deep. 
They  fall  over  quickly,  but  staking  will  extend  their  effectiveness. 

Woodland  wild  flower  garden,  in  front  of  shrubbery. 

Cyclamen  hederifotium 
(formerly  C.  neapolilanum) 
wild  cyclamen 

Sept-Oct 

4” 

Order  tubers  only  from  dealers  who  grow  them  from  seed.  Plant  in 
a partially  shaded,  well-drained  spot.  Add  leaf  mold  and  stone 
chips.  Cover  tubers  with  1/2"  of  soil. 

Plant  in  drifts  in  a woodland,  under  shrubbery,  or  in  a 
partially  shaded  rock  garden.  The  beautifully  mottled 
leaves  are  as  pleasing  as  the  small  pink  or  white  flowers. 

Crocus  speciosus 
autumn  crocus 
Named  selections  include 
Aitchisonii,’  ‘Oxonian,’ 
Albus,'  ‘Cassiope.’ 

Oct-Nov 

4-6" 

Order  from  bulb  dealers  and  plant  in  late  summer,  3"  deep  in  sun  or 
light  shade.  Plant  with  a low  perennial  suchasasedum  or  coral  bells 
so  that  the  corms  won’t  be  disturbed  during  their  dormant  season. 

Plant  bulbs  in  clusters  in  the  fall,  3"  deep  in  humusy,  well-drained 

Front  of  a border,  woodland.  This  is  the  earliest,  largest, 
and  most  rewarding  of  the  several  fall-blooming  crocuses 
commonly  offered.  It  will  naturalize  by  self-seeding. 

Galanthus  elwesii 
giant  snowdrop 
Galanthus  nivalis 
common  snowdrop 

Jan-Mar 

3-8" 

soil.  A sunny  location  will  bring  on  the  earliest  blooms,  but  they 
need  some  shade  after  flowering.  Move  or  divide  clumps  as  the 
flowers  fade,  replanting  immediately. 

Dried  corms  are  available  at  most  garden  centers,  but  they  do  not  al- 

These  can  be  used  under  shrubbery,  in  borders  or  rock 
gardens,  wherever  their  elarly  bloom  can  be  appreciated. 

Eranthis  hyemalis 
Winter  aconite 

Feb-Mar 

3-4" 

ways  thrive.  Plant  3"  deep  as  early  as  possible,  after  soaking  them 
in  water  for  several  hours.  Better  yet.  beg  a starter  clump  from  a 
friend  who  has  thousands. 

Plant  in  the  fall,  grouping  corms  3"  apart  and  3"  deep.  New 

Woodland,  lawn,  borders,  along  paths.  These  will  spread 
by  self-seeding  to  make  sheets  of  yellow  flowers  wherever 
they  are  allowed  to  mature  their  foliage. 

Crocus 

Early  species  crocus 
C.  ancyrensis  ‘Golden 
Bunch’ 

C.  tomasinianus 
C.  chrysanthus 
Many  named  varieties 

Feb-Mar 

3-6" 

plantings  especially  need  protection  from  squirrels  and  other  ro- 
dents. An  inverted  plastic  berry  basket  over  the  corms  may  work. 

Plant  in  the  fall  in  well-drained,  humusy  soil,  covering  3". 

Rock  garden,  naturalized  in  borders,  in  ground  covers. 

Scilla 

squill 

5.  tubergeniana 
S.  bifolia 

S.  siberica  ‘Spring 
Beauty.’ 

Feb-Mar 

3-8" 

Plant  in  the  fall  5"  deep  in  a sunny,  well-drained  location.  /. 

Great  for  naturalizing  in  woodland,  grass,  or  borders.  All 
three  may  show  up  in  unexpected  places  in  your  garden. 

Iris 

Dwarf  bulbous  iris 
/.  histrioides 
1.  reticulata 
l.  danfordiae 

Mar 

3-8" 

danfordiae  should  be  treated  as  an  annual  in  most  gardens,  but  will 
rebloom  if  given  perfect  drainage  and  summer  drought. 

Sunny  rock  garden,  raised  beds. 

• 

Mary  Mills  gardens  in  Princeton,  New  Jersey. 
She  is  a long  time  member  of  the  American 
Rock  Garden  Society.  Primula , Narcissus , and 
minor  bulbs  are  among  her  major  interests. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


photo  by  Margaret  P.  Bowditch 


Eight  blue  ribbon  exhibitors 
share  pointers  on  forcing 
bulbs  at  the  Philadelphia 
Flower  Show: 


Daffodils,  tulips,  and  iris  in  Peggy  Bowditch’s  garden  room,  photographed  in  March  before  the 
1989  Flower  Show. 

FORCING  BULBS  FOR 
THE  PHILADELPHIA 
FLOWER  SHOW 

(®)  By  Walter  Fisher,  Jr. 


Peggy  Bowditch 
Bill  Burleigh 
Leila  Cleaves 
Pamela  C.  Copeland 
Kitty  Draper 
Walt  Fisher 
Susie  Ganoe 
Rosemarie  Vassalluzzo 


Curses  and  prayers,”  was  Peggy 
Bowditch’s  final  incantation  on 
the  questionnaire  1 circulated  on 
forcing  bulbs  for  the  Philadelphia  Flower 
Show.  I can  relate  to  her  sentiments,  and,  so 
probably  can  the  six  other  seasoned  exhib- 
itors who  participated  in  the  survey  I pre- 
pared for  this  article  to  encourage  potential 
Flower  Show  exhibitors  and  to  help  veter- 
ans sharpen  their  skills  with  these  experts’ 
techniques. 

I wanted  to  identify  the  key  variables  in 
forcing  bulbs  to  bloom  under  artificial 
conditions.  While  there  are  many  other 

the  green  scene  / July  1989 


accomplished  growers  and  exhibitors  who 
force  for  the  Show,  I wanted  to  gather  a 
sample  of  growers  who  I know  use  differ- 
ent procedures  to  get  the  same  outstanding 
results. 

preparation 

Each  year  in  June,  the  PHS  News  an- 
nounces the  cultivars  selected  for  the  named 
bulb  classes.  These  classes  include  several 
narcissus,  a tulip  and  a hyacinth.  The  offi- 
cial Flower  Show  Exhibitor’ s Guide  mailed 
to  members  in  late  summer  identifies  at 
least  10  other  bulb  classes  from  which  ex- 


Walt  Fisher’s  collection  of  bulbs  in  "Bloom- 
ing Color,”  class  400  took  a second  at 
Friday’s  judging  at  the  1989  Flower  Show. 


continued 


hibitors  can  choose  the  cultivars  they  wish 
to  exhibit. 


selecting  bulbs 

First,  select  a reputable  bulb  supplier, 
who  will  deliver  a dependable,  disease- 
free  product.  Other  factors  to  consider  are 
delivery  schedule,  minimum  ordering 
quantities  and  last  of  all,  price.  With  a 
little  comparison  shopping,  you  will 
quickly  discover  that  prices  for  bulbs  of 
the  same  quality  can  vary  by  as  much  as 
300%. 

Proper  care  by  the  grower/supplier  aids 
immeasurably  in  growing  quality  exhibits. 
Because  you  personally  will  be  unable  to 
observe  the  all-important,  early  process- 


Bill  Burleigh  uses  a little  vegetable  oil 
to  hide  the  salt  deposits  that  often  mar 
a pot’s  appearance. 


ing  of  the  bulbs,  you  must  depend  on  the 
growers’  reputations.  Check  with  other  ex- 
hibitors, and  our  panel  can  help.  (A  selec- 
tion of  suppliers  is  listed  on  page  28  in  this 
issue.)  You  can,  however,  evaluate  the  re- 
tail outlet’s  handling:  Are  the  bulbs  stored 
in  a cool,  ventilated  environment?  Are  bad 
bulbs  removed?  Is  there  a chance  different 
cultivars  will  be  casually  mixed  together? 
If  shipped,  are  the  containers  ventilated? 
Imagine  your  disappointment  in  February 
when,  having  planted  your  bulbs  four 
months  earlier,  you  suddenly  discover  that 
several  hyacinths  in  your  eight-inch  pan 
have  rotted,  or  that  the  tulips  are  not  really 
‘Apricot  Beauty,’  or  that  yellow  and  white 
daffodils  are  growing  in  the  same  pan.  At 
that  moment  you  will  wish  you  had  picked 
your  supplier  more  carefully. 

Our  panel  uses  at  least  10  different 
suppliers  and  the  quality  of  their  exhibits 
demonstrates  that  many  excellent  sources 
are  available. 

Next,  select  your  bulb  sizes.  In  general, 
our  panel  uses  the  top-size  bulbs  in  all 
classes  except  daffodils.  In  the  major  daf- 
fodils, the  preferences  are  either  mother 
bulbs,  the  largest  size,  or  double  nose,  the 
next  smaller  size.  I prefer  the  double  nose 
because  they  permit  cramming  more 
flower-producing  bulbs  in  pots.  (Remem- 
ber that  the  pot  size  is  specified  for  certain 
Show  classes.) 

Regardless  of  your  source,  carefully 
inspect  your  bulbs  as  soon  as  possible; 
look  for  fungus,  or  rot,  and  be  certain  that 
they  are  solid  to  your  touch  and  of  uniform 
weight  (bad  bulbs  are  often  lighter.)  If  you 
find  that  more  than  10%-20%  are  bad. 


return  them  to  your  supplier.  You  can  bet 
that  more  are  bad  than  you  can  detect.  Al- 
though dipping  bulbs  in  a Benomyl  or  other 
appropriate  solution  is  an  added  precau- 
tion against  disease,  only  one  panel  mem- 
ber does  this.  If  it  is  necessary  to  store  the 
bulbs  before  planting,  keep  them  in  a cool, 
not  cold,  well-ventilated  place. 

pots 

Flower  Show  rules  require  that  bulb  pans 
or  azalea  pots  be  used  in  the  named  classes, 
so  you  may  as  well  start  collecting  these 
types,  and  stay  with  clay.  Bulb  pans,  the 
lowest,  are  about  four  inches  high  for  a 
pan  eight  inches  in  diameter,  while  azalea 
pots  are  about  six  or  seven  inches  high  for 
a similar  diameter.  Since  most  pots  are 
now  made  in  metric  sizes,  and  vary  widely 
for  the  same  labeled  measurement,  take  a 
ruler  with  you  to  measure  the  inside,  top 
diameter,  when  you  make  your  purchase. 
Soak  new  clay  pots  in  water  before  using. 

All  of  our  panel  members  reuse  their 
clay  pots,  and  after  cleaning,  most  soak 
them  a Clorox  bleach  solution  to  kill  fun- 
gus. Rosemarie  Vassaluzzo,  winner  of  the 
PHS  Grand  Sweepstakes  in  the  last  seven 
Flower  Shows,  uses  her  dishwasher  to 
prepare  her  pots  for  her  new  crop. 

Although  almost  all  articles  on  bulb 
forcing  include  advice  on  the  “best”  plant- 
ing medium  for  bulbs,  our  eight  panel 
members  use  at  least  eight  different  reci- 
pes. Basically,  peat,  sand,  soil  and  Perlite 
are  the  main  ingredients  with  ProMix  used 
alone,  or  in  combinations,  by  four  experts. 
Pamela  Copeland,  two-time  winner  of  the 
Show’s  PHS  Horticultural  Sweepstakes 
Trophy,  uses  sterilized,  composted  top  soil 
for  her  exhibits. 

My  conclusion,  after  experimenting  with 
many  combinations,  is  that  virtually  any 
neutral-acidity,  potting  medium  that  is  firm 
enough  to  support  bulbs  and  their  blooms 
and  retains  moisture,  without  being  soggy, 
will  be  satisfactory. 


Some,  but  not  all,  panel  members,  add 
lime,  superphosphate,  bonemeal  or  other 
low-nitrogen  fertilizers  to  their  potting  me- 
dium. However,  Leila  Cleaves,  the  guid- 
ing force  behind  the  Shipley  School 
Sprouts’  exhibits,  warns  against  bonemeal 
when  storing  potted  bulbs  outdoors;  it 
attracts  foraging  animals 

planting 

Planting  the  bulbs  in  the  pots  is  fairly 
straightforward.  First  cover  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  pot  with  a stone,  a piece  of 
broken  pot,  or  a small  piece  of  screening 
so  that  water  and  roots  can  pass  through, 
but  the  planting  medium  cannot.  In  gen- 
eral, plant  bulbs  just  deep  enough  so  that 
their  tips  are  at,  or  slightly  above,  the 
surface.  One  successful  technique  is  to 
plant  two  layers  of  daffodil  bulbs:  one  layer 
placed  on  top,  and  in  between,  the  tips  of 
the  lower  layer.  In  this  way,  the  number  of 
blooms  is  increased. 

I pack  the  soil  around  hyacinths  more 
firmly,  because  their  root  growth  tends  to 
push  them  out  of  the  pot.  Tulips  require 
that  the  flat  side  face  the  outside  of  the  pot; 
the  lowest  leaf  will  then  face  outward. 
After  planting,  water  the  planting  and  place 
in  a cold-storage  facility. 

cold  storage  or  rooting  stage 

Now,  here’s  a chance  for  ingenuity.  The 
basic  requirement  is  to  store  the  planted 
pots  somewhere  that  will  permit  pot  tem- 
peratures to  get  progressively  colder  as 
winter  approaches,  remain  above  freezing, 
allow  rain  or  watering  to  reach  the  plants, 
and,  if  outdoors,  provide  physical  protec- 
tion. This  storage  is  often  referred  to  as  the 
rooting  stage.  Six  of  our  panel  members 
use  permanent  or  improvised  outdoor  cold 
frames,  two  use  root  cellars  for  all  or  some 
of  their  pots,  and  Pamela  Copeland  uses  an 
indoor  cooler.  Both  Susie  Ganoe  and  Leila 
Cleaves  build  temporary,  surface-level, 
cold  frames  out  of  chicken  wire  (see  illus- 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


trations).  Both  stress  the  need  for  good 
drainage,  which  they  achieve  through  a 
bottom  layer  of  pebbles  and  gravel.  Susie 
surrounds  her  plants  with  bagged  leaves 
for  insulation,  covers  them  with  leaves  and 
sprinkles  mothballs  around  to  discourage 
rodents.  Leila  prefers  pine  needles  for 
insulation. 

Bill  Burleigh,  another  perennial  blue- 
ribbon  winner,  stores  his  pots,  uncovered 
in  a root  cellar.  Kitty  Draper,  who  has 
been  exhibiting  bulbs  and  winning  awards 
for  20  years,  puts  some  of  her  pots  in  a root 
cellar,  some  in  an  old  freezer  and  others  in 
a cold  frame.  She  favors  the  root  cellar. 
Rosemarie  Vassaluzzo,  stores  her  pots, 
uncovered,  in  a glass-enclosed  cold  frame. 

Peggy  Bowditch  and  I prefer  outdoor 
cold  frames  with  Perlite  as  a covering. 
Incidentally,  Peggy  located  her  cold  frame 
on  a northern  exposure  to  avoid  the  direct 
winter  sun.  My  frame  is  tightly  fitted  with 
a wire  screen  to  keep  out  my  neighbor’s 
cats,  and  the  mice  that  hide  from  them. 
The  eight  to  ten  inches  of  Perlite  that  I use 
is  a good  insulator  (the  top  two  to  three 
inches  freezes  and  the  lower  portion  around 
the  pots  remains  at  35°  to  42°  F),  easy  to 
dig  through  to  recover  the  pots  and  has  the 
added  advantage  of  being  simple  to  re- 
move from  the  pots  and  the  leaves. 

I could  continue  with  these  local  adapta- 
tions by  our  panel  and  by  other  exhibitors, 
who  use  such  places  as  unheated  stair- 
ways, garages,  refrigerators,  (which  might 
appeal  to  apartment  dwellers)  and  holes 
dug  in  the  yard,  but  I hope  it’s  clear  that 
almost  anything  goes.  Regardless  of  your 
cold-storage  decision,  remember  that  these 
bulbs  are  actively  growing  during  this 
period  and  require  water  and  occasional 
inspections. 

forcing 

Exposing  the  pots  to  heat  and  light  is  the 
next  stage  of  inducing  bulbs  to  flower  early. 
After  removing  the  pots  from  cold  storage, 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


they  must,  unless  a controlled-temperature 
cold-storage  facility  is  used,  be  temporar- 
ily stored  for  several  days  in  darkness  or 
semi-darkness  at  temperatures  between  the 
cold  storage  and  the  forcing  temperatures. 
Here  again,  no  two  panel  members  handle 
this  transition  the  same  way,  but  they  all 
follow  the  same  general  procedure.  (Pamela 
Copeland  moves  her  pots  directly  to  the 
greenhouse.)  My  technique,  and  I’m  still 
experimenting,  is  to  water  the  pots  and 
then  cover  them  with  translucent  plastic 
bags  or  paper  bags  and  leave  them  on  my 
58°-60°  F basement  floor  for  two  days. 
Hyacinths,  followed  by  tulips,  are  the  most 
fragile  at  this  stage  and  can  be  perma- 
nently damaged  by  too  early  exposure. 
Individual  cultivars  vary  considerably  in 
this  sensitivity.  Both  Bill  Burleigh  and  Leila 
Cleaves  start  the  forcing  process  when  the 
leaves  start  turning  green, 

Forcing  bulbs  requires  a combination  of 
heat  and  light.  As  you  might  suspect,  many 
variations  are  possible  and  our  panel  does 
not  disappoint  us.  Three  panel  members 
use  greenhouses  exclusively;  two,  a com- 
bination of  greenhouses  and  artificial  lights 
in  their  homes;  and  the  other  three  do  all 
their  forcing  in  their  homes  using  either  a 
combination  of  natural  and  artificial  light 
or  artificial  light  exclusively. 

Peggy  Bowditch,  who  primarily  grows 
smaller  bulbs,  coaxes  her  plants  into  bloom 
on  her  window  sills  and  under  fluorescent 
lights,  while  Susie  Ganoe  uses  an  enclosed 
porch  as  well  as  her  greenhouse.  Rose- 
marie and  I use  fluorescent  lights  exclu- 
sively, mine  over  a ping-pong  table  in  my 
basement  and  Rosemarie  in  various  parts 
of  her  house  and  garage.  Of  the  artificial 
light  users,  all  have  some  arrangement,  as 
the  plants  grow  taller,  to  move  the  lights  or 
plants  to  maintain  a constant  distance 
between  them.  I prefer  four  to  six  inches 
between  my  plants  and  the  40-watt,  48- 
inch,  fluorescent  plant  lights  that  I use. 
Leila  Cleaves  and  I find  that  adjustable 


chains  serve  this  purpose  well. 

Forcing  temperatures  vary  for  our  panel 
between  45°  F at  night  to  70°  F during  the 
day.  Daytime  temperatures  around  65°  F, 
and  60°  F at  night  should  handle  most 
bulbs.  Cooler  temperatures  slow  the  bloom- 
ing and  higher  temperatures  hasten  it;  an 
increase  of  10°  F around  these  suggested 
temperatures  roughly  cuts  this  stage  in  half 
and  a similar  decrease  will  about  double  it. 
During  this  forcing  stage,  keep  the  pots 
moist,  check  for  disease  and  insects,  and 
follow  Peggy’s  advice:  pray. 

I use  Florel™  (ethephon)  to  prevent  some 
hyacinths,  muscari,  and  daffodils  from 
getting  too  tall  under  my  fluorescent  lights. 
A-Rest™  (ancyomidol)  does  the  same  for 
tulips.  Be  cautious;  use  the  Holland  Bulb 
Forcer's  Guide , or  the  manufacturers  for 
special  directions.  Most  greenhouse  sup- 
pliers sell  these  products. 

timing 

Timing  is  obviously  the  most  critical 
element  for  the  perfect  exhibit. 

To  start,  almost  all  bulbs  that  require 
cold  storage  will  be  close  to  their  optimum 
after  15-16  weeks  in  your  rooting  facility. 
Now,  add  the  forcing  time,  plus  a few  days 
for  the  transition  period  and  then  several 
days  grace.  Count  this  total  time  back  from 
the  desired  blooming  date  and  plant  your 
bulbs.  For  example,  under  my  conditions, 
I plant  ‘Negrita’  tulips  19  weeks  (includ- 
ing 25  days  of  forcing)  before  the  Flower 
Show  and  ‘Gypsy  Queen'  hyacinths  17 
weeks.  ‘Unsurpassable’  daffodils  will  be 
planted  around  the  last  week  in  October 
(15  weeks  cold  storage,  2 days  transition 
and  18  days  forcing,  including  the  grace 
period)  for  the  1990  Show,  where  the  first 
entries  will  be  accepted  on  March  2nd  and 
3rd. 

Our  panel  uses  various  techniques  to 
retard  plants  that  would,  otherwise,  bloom 
too  early.  These  techniques  range  from 
storing  them  in  refrigerators  or  on  unheated 
porches,  to  packing  them  in  ice  or  snow. 
All  involve  lower  temperatures,  and,  in 
some  cases,  reduced  light  intensity  or 
duration.  I have  copied  the  method  Gale 
Nurseries  uses  to  force  their  Flower  Show 
plants:  during  the  day,  they  use  an  opened- 
door  garage  that  allows  plenty  of  daylight, 
augmented  by  artificial  lighting,  at  tem- 
peratures above  freezing.  Another  helpful 
hint  is  to  retard  growth  while  still  in  the 
bud  stage. 

To  accelerate  blooming  do  just  the  op- 
posite: provide  higher  temperatures  and 
longer  light  periods.  My  “Intensive  Care 
Unit”  is  a propagation  mat  with  two  150- 
watt  plant  lights.  If  you  have  a choice,  err 

continued 


17 


on  the  early  side;  your  chances  of  having 
an  exhibition-quality  plant  are  greatly  en- 
hanced. 

During  this  entire  forcing  process,  rec- 
ord the  vital  information  for  each  pot:  when 
it  was  planted,  the  number  of  bulbs,  where 
stored,  when  and  where  the  forcing  began, 
when  moved,  and  the  date  of  bloom.  This 
system  will  enable  you  to  replicate  your 
successes  and  correct  your  disasters.  I use 
a four-inch,  plastic  label  to  record  each 
pot's  vita. 


The  Flower  Show 

Before  entering  your  plants  in  the  Flower 
Show,  reread  your  PHS  Exhibitor' s Guide 
for  entry  times  and  other  helpful  informa- 
tion. If  you  pre-enter  your  exhibits,  use  the 
form  in  the  back  of  the  guide  and  addi- 
tional instructions  will  be  mailed  to  you.  If 
you  have  questions  don’t  be  afraid  to  call 
the  chair  of  the  Horticultural  Classes. 

Since  nature  often  needs  help,  carefully 
groom  your  entry;  brush  any  dirt  off  the 
leaves,  trim  the  ends  and  edges  of,  or 
remove,  any  brown  leaves,  and  clean  your 
pot.  Bill  Burleigh  uses  a little  vegetable  oil 
to  hide  the  salt  deposits  that  often  mar  a 
pot’s  appearance.  Also,  don’t  be  afraid  to 
remove  any  flowers  that  detract  from  the 
overall  effect. 

Stake  and  tie  plants  that  are  tall,  have 
weak  stems  or  heavy  blooms.  To  stake 
place  green,  wooden  or  metal  stakes  around 
the  perimeter  of  a pot  and  tie  thin,  green 
string  around  the  stakes  to  form  a retaining 
collar.  Although  some  panel  members  start 
staking  when  the  plants  are  short,  I wait, 
except  for  hyacinths  with  their  heavy 
blooms,  until  the  plants  are  at  full  height 
so  that  I can  stake  and  groom  at  the  same 
time.  I use  thin,  14-gauge  wire  stakes  for 
smaller  plants  and  3/16  inch  diameter  flo- 
ral stakes  for  larger  plants.  In  either  case, 
I push  the  18  inch  stakes  to  the  bottom  of 
the  pot  and  cut  them  so  that  their  tops  are 
just  below  the  flower  level  and  then  tie  the 
string  just  below  that.  Placing  the  stakes 
against  the  inside  of  the  pot  will,  in  most 
cases,  slant  the  stakes  at  an  angle  that  will 
allow  adequate  space  for  the  blooms  after 
tying.  For  pots  under  8 inches,  I place  four 
stakes,  equally  separated,  and  five  for  larger 
pots.  Even  if  the  plants  don’t  appear  to 
need  staking  on  the  entry  day,  consider 
how  they  will  look  to  Flower  Show  visi- 
tors during  the  three  days  they  are  in  the 
Show.  String  and  stakes  are  available  at 
some  garden  shops  and  at  greenhouse  or 
florist  suppliers. 

Mulch,  pebbles,  moss  and  sand  are  often 
used  to  enhance  the  pot’s  appearance  and 
to  retain  moisture,  but  are  not  a require- 


ment. Exhibitors  Janice  and  Ken  Gordon 
have  turned  grooming  into  an  art  form  and 
their  entries  would  be  good  models  for 
preparing  your  exhibits. 

On  entry  day,  your  most  important  ally 
will  be  the  passer  assigned  to  your  class. 
Passers  wear  a bib  with  a big  “P”  on  the 
front  and  back.  They  will  tell  you  how  to 
get  your  entry  in  the  Show.  They  will  also 
ask  you  to  designate  the  side  of  the  pot  you 
want  to  face  forward.  After  the  passer 
accepts  your  plant,  it  is  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  judges. 

After  the  ribbons  have  been  awarded, 
exhibitors  and  visitors  have  another  great 
learning  opportunity:  check  winners  for 
the  characteristics  the  judges  reward. 
Observe  carefully  cultivars,  height,  pot  size 
(where  optional),  grooming,  and  number 
of  blooms.  Also  talk  to  winners  and  other 
exhibitors  who,  generally,  are  eager  to  share 
their  knowledge. 

recycling 

Finally,  four  or  five  months  after  you 
first  potted  your  bulbs,  you  are  faced  with 
the  chore  of  recycling,  as  Leila  Cleaves 
calls  it,  the  bulbs  spent  by  forcing.  As  you 
can  easily  imagine  by  now,  no  two  panel 
members  do  exactly  the  same.  Some  dis- 
card all  or  a portion  of  their  bulbs,  while 
others  attempt  to  give  them  a new  outdoor 
life.  Our  panel  has  successfully  replanted 
forced  bulbs  in  both  the  spring  and  fall. 
Some  just  place  the  whole  pan,  with  the 
pot  removed,  in  the  ground,  while  others 
separate  and  dry  the  bulbs  before  planting 
in  the  fall.  I have  tried  just  about  every 
possible  method  with  about  the  same  spotty 
results.  Success  varies  by  cultivar  with 
‘Tete-a-tete,’  ‘Ice  Follies,’  ‘Hawera’  and 
‘Dutch  Master’  daffodils  mentioned  by  our 
panel  as  blooming  outdoors  during  the  first 


year  after  forcing.  Some  cultivars  take 
several  years  before  blooming  again. 

Bulbs  should  not  be  reforced.  It  can  be 
done,  but  it  does  not  yield  high-quality 
plants. 

forcer’s  checklist 

Well,  now  you  hlave  it!  Except  for  the 
adaptations  you  must  make  for  your  per- 
sonal microclimates,  these  guidelines 
should  produce  quality  exhibits.  To  sum- 
marize, buy  high-quality  bulbs  from  a 
reliable  supplier  and  plant  them  in  clean, 
fungus-free  pots  in  a firm,  well-drained, 
potting  medium.  Immediately  put  them  in 
their  winter  home  where  the  temperature 
will  gradually  get  colder  and  remain  there, 
above  freezing.  About  15  weeks  later 
remove  them,  keep  in  transition  for  sev- 
eral days  and  then  place  in  a warm,  lighted 
environment  until  they  bloom.  As  a gen- 
eral guideline,  most  large  daffodils  take 
two  to  three  weeks  of  forcing;  hyacinths, 
two  weeks;  tulips  and  muscari,  three  to 
four  weeks;  and  iris  and  crocus,  one  week. 
(The  order  of  appearance  of  blooms  in 
your  yard  gives  a good  clue  to  the  length 
of  the  forcing  period  — the  earlier  bloom- 
ers being  the  shorter-forcing  bulbs.)  Start 
out  by  planting  at  least  two  pots  for  each 
planned  entry  and  use  a slightly  different 
schedule  for  each  pot  to  increase  your 
probability  of  success.  Don’t  be  disap- 
pointed by  a few  failures  because  if  you 
keep  careful  records,  you  can  learn  as  much 
from  the  failure  as  you  can  from  a blue 
ribbon  winner. 

Oh,  I almost  forgot,  there  is  no  room  for 
superstition  in  forcing  bulbs;  it  is  a sciein- 
tific  process  that  does  not  reward  irrational 
behavior.  I,  for  example,  originally,  played 
classical  music  for  my  plants  during  the 
forcing  period.  I discarded  this  tomfool- 
ery, however,  when  I empirically  discov- 
ered that  only  daffodils  respond  to  the 
classics,  while  hyacinths  and  muscari  thrive 
on  patriotic  music  and  tulips  love  jazz. 

• 

Walt  Fisher  was  runner-up  for  the  PHS  Horti- 
cultural Sweepstakes  at  the  1989  Philadelphia 
Flower  Show.  He  won  the  Delaware  Daffodil 
Society  ribbon  for  the  outstanding  blue  ribbon 
winner  in  the  Narcissus  Class  in  the  Saturday 
judging  for  his  ‘Dutch  Master’  and  on  Tuesday 
and  Friday’s  judgings  for  his  ‘Pink  Supreme’ 
entries.  Walt’s  interest  in  horticulture  began  at 
the  age  of  13  as  a greenhouse  laborer  in  1943. 
As  an  executive  at  AT&T  until  1988,  he  be- 
came increasingly  more  involved  in  the  Phila- 
delphia Flower  Show,  where  he  has  exhibited 
for  10  years.  He  now  serves'on  the  Show’s 
Executive  Committee  and  lectures  on  the  forc- 
ing of  bulbs. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


photos  supplied  by  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


Hybridizing  Daffodils 
American  Style 


By  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


‘Epitome’  (Evans) 


Three  men  are  responsible  for  most 
of  the  choice  daffodils  of  Ameri- 
can origin  seen  today  in  our  gar- 
dens and  on  the  show  table.  Two  of  these 
men  owned  commercial  daffodil  nurseries 
in  Oregon,  and  the  third  was  a most  suc- 
cessful corporate  executive  from  southern 
Virginia  who  dabbled  in  daffodils  on  the 
side.  Each  sought  specific  goals  and  ex- 
panded the  palette  of  daffodil  forms,  col- 
ors and  seasons  in  different  directions. 

Grant  E.  Mitsch 

Grant  E.  Mitsch  and  his  wife  Amy  is- 
sued their  first  bulb  catalog  in  1927  from 


their  home  near  the  Willamette  River  out- 
side Canby,  Oregon.  Their  initial  interest 
was  in  gladiolus.  Other  offerings  included 
bearded  iris,  tulips,  dahlias  and  lilies.  In 
1932,  they  acquired  bulbs  of  ‘King  Alfred’ 
and  some  other  large  trumpets.  Within  a 
few  years  they  ordered  bulbs  from  the  great 
Irish  hybridizers,  Guy  Wilson  and  J.  Lionel 
Richardson.  The  first  crosses  were  made 
in  1934  as  more  of  the  finer  cultivars  were 
ordered  from  Ireland,  and  daffodils  soon 
became  the  main  thrust  of  their  interest 
and  sole  business. 

In  1945,  Grant  Mitsch  introduced  his 
first  cultivars,  ‘Cream  Cup’  and  ‘Silver- 

continued 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


20 


Hybridizing  Daffodils  - 

dale.’  By  1968,  his  catalog  listed  more 
than  160  cultivars  of  his  own  breeding. 
During  the  first  20  years  of  hybridizing,  he 
made  great  progress  in  developing  smooth, 
well-formed  reverse  bicolors  (flowers  in 
which  the  flat  perianth  segments  are  darker 
in  color  than  the  crown  or  trumpet  in  Di- 
vision 1 (trumpets)  and  2 (long-cups).  ‘Day- 
dream,’ a long-cupped  seedling  of  ‘Binkie,’ 
was  introduced  in  1960  and  is  still  widely 
grown  and  exhibited  throughout  the  daffo- 
dil world.  ‘Daydream’  is  a round  flower 
opening  up  lime-green  throughout  and 
slowly  changing  to  its  reverse  bicolor  tones 
at  maturity.  It  is  still  the  quality  standard 
for  reverse  bicolor  long-cups.  A sister 
seedling,  ‘Bethany,’  was  the  first  of  a se- 
ries of  reverse  bicolor  trumpets.  By  the 
mid-1960s  the  first  reverse  bicolor  jon- 
quils (fragrant  Division  7 flowers  usually 
bearing  two  or  more  blooms  per  stem) 
appeared  in  his  catalog.  ‘Pipit’  and 
‘Dickcissel’  are  still  popular  today.  In  later 
years  he  became  the  first  person  to  intro- 
duce reverse  bicolor  short  cups  (Division 
3)  and  cyclamineus  hybrids  (Division  6). 

During  his  first  20  years  of  hybridiz- 
ing, Grant  Mitsch  also  made  significant 
progress  in  refining  pink  daffodils.  Start- 
ing with  ‘Mrs.  R.  O.  Backhouse,’  he  de- 
veloped an  extensive  list  of  pinks  bloom- 
ing at  the  same  time  as  the  great  flush  of 
other  daffodils.  ‘Mrs.  R.  O.  Backhouse’ 
and  other  pinks  of  that  time  bloom  at  the 
very  end  of  the  season.  ‘Accent,’  a bril- 
liant pink  long-cup  has  been  a favorite 
garden  subject  almost  since  its  introduc- 
tion in  1961.  In  more  recent  years  some- 
what smoother  flowers  have  been  devel- 
oped, and  pink  has  been  bred  into  daffo- 
dils from  almost  every  division. 

Outside  the  continental  U.S.  daffodil 
shows  list  classes  for  the  first  four  daffodil 
Divisions  in  some  detail.  At  the  end  of  the 
schedule  is  a class  labeled  “N.O.E.”  — not 
otherwise  enumerated.  Into  this  class  fall 
all  daffodils  from  Divisions  5 through  12. 
In  the  U.S.  show  schedules  give  equal 
emphasis  to  all  divisions.  Grant  Mitsch 
can  be  given  credit  for  having  used  the 
species,  triandrus , cyclamineus  and  jon- 
quilla,  to  expand  offerings  in  Divisions  5, 
6 and  7.  Today  pinks  and  bicolors  are 
available  in  most  of  these  divisions.  Many 
first  generation  hybrids  in  these  higher 
divisions  are  sterile  or  at  best  very  difficult 
to  use  effectively  as  parents.  Through  much 
persistence  over  the  years,  he  developed 
several  first  generation  hybrids,  which  did 
prove  fertile  and  which  have  greatly  im- 
proved the  quality  and  variety  of  these 
smaller  “wild-like”  flowers. 

Grant  Mitsch  officially  turned  his  busi- 
ness over  to  his  daughter  and  her  husband. 


American  Style 

Elise  and  Richard  Havens  in  1978  after 
issuing  catalogs  for  50  years.  The  Havens 
have  continued  to  provide  new  Mitsch 
offerings  as  well  as  Mitsch-Havens  and 
Havens  introductions.  Mr.  Mitsch  took  an 
active  interest  in  daffodils  until  his  death 
in  March  1989.  Emphasis  is  still  on  flow- 
ers from  the  higher  divisions  and  on  pinks, 
but  there  are  beautiful  whites,  and  other 
smooth  flowers  in  the  first  four  divisions. 
Grant  Mitsch  had  always  been  an  avid 
ornithologist  naming  many  flowers  for  his 
favorite  birds.  ‘Warbler,’  ‘Quail,’  ‘Lyre- 
bird,’ ‘Dik  Dik,’  ‘Toucan,’  ‘Chickadee,’ 
etc.  New  bird  names  still  appear  in  yearly 
catalogs.  For  years  he  grew  on  and  intro- 
duced seedlings  hybridized  by  Dr.  Tom  D. 
Throckmorton  of  Des  Moines,  Iowa.  Many 
of  these  are  very  round  late-blooming  short- 
cups,  which  change  color  dramatically  as 
they  mature.  The  catalog  is  filled  with 
mouth-watering  colored  pictures  and  con- 
tains fine  descriptions  of  the  flowers.  Prices 
range  from  $1  to  $150  per  bulb.  Discounts 
are  offered  on  early  orders.  Bonus  bulbs 
are  usually  tucked  in  for  good  measure  on 
larger  orders.  Collections  of  pinks,  cyclam- 
ineus hybrids,  seedlings,  etc.  are  offered. 
An  early  spring  list  usually  includes  some 
miniatures. 

Grant  E.  Mitsch  Novelty  Daffodils 
Mrs.  And  Mrs.  Richard  D.  Havens 
P.O.  Box  218 
Hubbard,  OR  97032 

(503)  651-2742  (6:00-9:00  p.m.  Pacific  Time) 

Murray  W.  Evans 

The  late  Murray  W.  Evans  and  his  wife 
Estella  raised  Christmas  trees  and  daffo- 
dils at  their  home  in  Corbett,  Oregon  for 
many,  many  years.  He  had  been  in  ill  health 
for  several  years  before  his  death  last  fall 
and  was  assisted  in  his  daffodil  business 
by  his  niece  Diane  and  her  husband  Bill 
Tribe.  This  year  the  Tribes  and  Estella 
Evans  are  carrying  on  alone.  Some  of  his 
stock  was  passed  on  to  neighbor  Jeannie 
Driver  to  grow  on.  Her  list  has  been  in- 
cluded in  his  catalog  for  several  seasons  as 
he  cut  down  on  the  number  of  cultivars  he 
grew  and  farmed  out  the  others. 

Murray  Evans  named  and  registered 
‘Descanso,’  a smooth  yellow  and  white 
bicolor  trumpet  after  it  won  “Best  in  Show” 
as  a numbered  seedling  at  the  Descanso 
Gardens  Show  in  Southern  California  in 
1964.  The  next  year  ‘Wahkeena’  a long- 
cupped  bicolor  (sister  to  ‘Descanso’)  and 
‘Celilo’  a pure  white  trumpet  were  regis- 
tered. Grant  Mitsch  introduced  these  early 
flowers  for  his  friend  Murray  Evans  be- 
fore the  first  “Murray  W.  Evans  Modem 
Daffodils”  list  appeared.  These  lists  in 
varying  shades  of  yellow  bore  a picture  of 


the  Evans  property  on  the  top  — Christ- 
mas trees,  daffodils,  Mt.  Hood  in  the  back- 
ground and  a sign  on  the  gate,  “Visitors 
Welcome.”  First  came  the  new  introduc- 
tions followed  by  all  the  Evans  daffodils 
and  then  the  offerings  by  others.  In  1979, 
Bill  Pannill  daffodils  made  their  first 
appearance  on  his  list.  The  new  Oregon 
Trail  catalog  retains  the  same  format  but 
offers  a more  extensive  listing. 

Murray  Evans  was  a kind  and  generous 
friend  to  all  who  knew  him.  For  many 
years  he  directed  the  Daffodil  Society’s 
Committee  on  Breeding  and  Selection.  He 
freely  shared  his  experiences  if  asked  and 
offered  suggestions  for  seed  or  pollen 
parents  to  help  hybridizers  achieve  their 
goals.  He  knew  what  kinds  of  flowers 
everyone  favored  and  always  included 
many  extra  bulbs  with  each  order.  New 
seedlings  were  sent  out  on  trial  to  all  parts 
of  the  country.  Those  that  tested  well  were 
introduced.  The  Evans  bulbs  have  always 
been  large  and  Murray  sent  along  more 
than  were  ordered.  During  his  years  of 
hybridizing,  he  contributed  many  worth- 
while cultivars  among  the  trumpets,  long- 
and  short-cups  and  doubles.  His  flowers 
are  extremely  good  doers  in  the  garden 
and  most  perform  well  on  the  show  table. 
‘Cataract,’  ‘Ghost,’  ‘Shadow’  and 
‘Neahkahnie’  are  but  a few  of  his  white 
trumpets,  which  set  the  standard  for  white- 
ness and  fine  form.  ‘Ken’s  Favorite,’ 
‘Quasar’  and  ‘Heart  Throb’  are  three  pink 
long  cups  that  perform  well  in  area  gar- 
dens and  are  a nice  pink,  not  tending 
towards  blue.  In  recent  years  he  became 
interested  in  red  and  white  small  cups  and 
was  just  beginnig  to  name  some  of  these 
seedlings  at  the  time  of  his  death.  Murray 
Evans  always  demanded  the  very  whitest 
of  perianths,  and  these  red-and-whites  are 
a fine  contrast  with  very  red  crowns  and 
very  white  perianths.  He  has  contributed  a 
number  of  choice  yellows  of  good  size 
such  as  ‘Big  John,’  ‘Fettle’  and  ‘Ginger,’ 
the  last  being  one  of  his  “toned”  flowers 
which  darkens  in  color  as  it  matures. 

Murray  loved  fishing  more  than  any- 
thing else.  He  knew  exactly  where  the  fish 
were  to  be  found  and  when  they  would  be 
there.  Some  of  his  daffodils  were  named 
after  fish  (‘Arctic  Char’  and  ‘Coho’)  and 
fishing  holes  or  flies  (‘Tyee’).  Other 
names  are  most  descriptive  of  the  flowers 
‘Lollipop’  (round),  ‘Kewpie’  (small  and 
pink),  ‘Sun  Ball’  (spherical  yellow  and  red 
double).  Years  of  reading  were  reflected 
in  his  orderly  approach  to  hybridizing  and 
insight  into  choosing  the  proper  parents 
for  his  program.  The  world  is  fortunate 
that  his  past  endeavors  are  being  furthered 
by  capable  individulas  so  that  new  intro- 


Ihe  green  scene  / July  1989 


photo  supplied  by  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


‘Cameo  Queen’  (Pannill) 

ductions  will  continue  to  reach  the  list  and 
old  stocks  will  be  maintained  and  propa- 
gated. 

Murray  W.  Evans  Daffodils 
Oregon  Trail  Daffodils 
3207  SE  Manthey 
Corbett,  OR  97019 
(503)  695-5513 

Bill  and  Diane  (Evans)  Tribe  and  Estella  Evans 

William  G.  Pannill 

Bill  Bannill  of  Martinsville,  Virginia 
became  interested  in  growing  and  hybrid- 
izing daffodils  in  the  early  1960s  and  trav- 
elled with  his  friend,  Harry  Tuggle,  up  to 
visit  Murray  Evans  after  one  of  the  Daffo- 
dil Society  conventions  in  California. 
Murray  Evans  was  planting  seed  produced 
by  Harry  Tuggle  in  Virginia  and  growing 
on  the  resultant  progeny  to  flowering  size. 
Bill  Pannill,  busy  owner  and  CEO  of  Pan- 
nill Knitting,  decided  to  entrust  his  seeds 
to  Murray  also.  Harry  met  an  early  death 
but  for  almost  20  years.  Bill  Pannill  made 
the  yearly  trek  from  Virginia  to  Oregon  to 
evaluate  seedlings  and  go  fishing  with 
Murray. 

Bill  Pannill  has  produced  daffodils  in 
almost  all  Divisions.  Like  Grant  Mitsch  he 
used  the  species  to  create  wonderful  hy- 
brids in  Divisions  5 through  8.  ‘Jovial,’  a 
brilliant  orange  and  yellow  triandrus  hy- 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


brid  with  up  to  three  flowers  to  the  stem 
performs  well  in  the  Delaware  Valley. 
‘Indian  Maid’  is  one  of  the  brightest  and 
most  prolific  red  and  orange  jonquilla 
hybrids  ever  seen,  performing  equally  well 
in  the  garden  and  on  the  show  bench.  The 
best  pink  daffodil  exhibited  at  the  National 
Daffodil  Society  Show  in  March,  1989 
was  ‘Cameo  Queen,’  a trim  and  smooth 
long-cupped  Pannill  flower.  Bill  Pannilll 
is  perhaps  best  known  for  his  introduction 
of  choice  white  flowers  in  the  first  three 
Divisions.  ‘Homestead,’  a long-cupped 
pure  white,  has  many  times  won  best  in 
show  all  over  the  country.  ‘Crystal  Blanc,’ 
‘Portfolio’  and  ‘Mountain  Dew’  are  but  a 
few  of  the  other  Pannill  whites. 

All  Pannill  flowers  (perhaps  because  of 
their  nearby  Virginia  origin)  are  excellent 
performers  in  the  Delaware  Valley.  Bill 
Pannill  is  a perfectionist  in  all  that  he  does 
both  in  the  business  world  and  in  the  gar- 
den. He  has  not  registered  a single  flower 
that  lacks  in  form,  substance  or  constitution. 
All  can  be  recommended  without  reserva- 
tion. Pannill  flowers  may  be  obtained  from 
Oregon  Trail  Daffodills,  Hatfield  Gardens 
(22799  Ringgold  Southern  Road, 
Stoutsville,  OH  43154.  (614-474-5719) 
and  Bonnie  Brae  Gardens  (1105  S.E. 
Christensen  Road,  Corbett,  OR  97019. 
(503-695-5190). 


Lilium  ‘Jane  Pepper’ 

‘Jane  Pepper,’  a pale  yellow  upfacing 
Asiatic  lily  with  maroon  brush  marks  on  the 
petals,  was  first  flowered  in  the  summer  of 
1981  from  a cross  made  in  1979  between  a 
large  yellow  unnamed  Windus  seedling  and 
Haring  seedling,  ATW-2,  a yellow  with  dark 
brush  marks.  This  lily  grows  from  20  to  25 
inches  tall  and  carries  7 to  12  flowers  to  the 
stem.  Extremely  vigorous  and  at  home  in  the 
Delaware  Valley,  Lilium  ‘Jane  Pepper’  por- 
trays many  other  fine  attributes  of  its  name- 
sake, our  PHS  president.  It  is  cheerful  in  the 
garden,  fine  in  flower  shows,  persistent,  non- 
demanding, and  admired  by  everyone. 

Hybridizer  and  introducer:  Kathryn  S.  An- 
dersen 

A limited  number  of  Lilium  ‘Jane  Pepper' 
will  be  available  at  the  Plant  Dividend  for 
PHS  members  on  Friday,  September  8 (Noon 
to  7 pm)  and  Saturday,  September  9 (9:30  to 
Noon),  See  PHS  News  for  additional  infor- 
mation. Each  member  is  entitled  to  one  plant 
from  a number  of  selections.  Additional  L. 
‘Jane  Pepper'  plants  will  be  available  for  sale 
at  the  Plant  Dividend  and  the  Harvest  Show. 

Proceeds  from  the  sale  ofL.  ‘Jane  Pepper’  go 
to  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society. 


• 

Kathryn  S.  Andersen  is  president  of  the  Ameri- 
can Daffodil  Society  and  American  vice-presi- 
dent of  the  North  American  Lily  Society.  She’s 
past  persident  of  the  Middle  Atlantic  Regional 
Lily  Group.  Andersen  is  a certified  judge  for 
daffodils  and  lilies.  She  received  her  Ph.D.  in 
chemistry  from  the  University  of  Michigan  and 
is  a member  of  the  PHS  Council. 


photos  by  Lee  M.  Raden 


CULTIVATING  UNUSUAL  BULBS 


22 


I apply  the  term  ‘bulb’  loosely  to 
plants  that  have  an  underground  stor- 
age organ,  including  bulbs,  corms, 
rhizomes,  tubers  and  thick  kernel  roots. 
Most  of  these  organs  have  evolved  to  carry 
the  plant  over  a climatic  period  unfavor- 
able to  growth.  This  is  usually  the  dry 
summer  in  the  case  of  spring  and  autumn 
flowering  bulbs,  or  winter  in  the  case  of 
plants  coming  from  areas  that  have  sum- 
mer rain  but  cold,  often  dry  winters  (e.g., 
Lilium  and  Nomocharis).  In  the  case  of 
summer  dormant  bulbs,  the  lack  of  sum- 
mer rain  and  the  warm  dry  conditions  that 
prevail  in  the  areas  where  the  bulbs  natu- 
rally grow  make  summer  the  unfavorable 
period.  The  plants  respond  by  going  dor- 
mant, a habit  that  continues  in  cultivation. 
In  eastern  North  America,  however,  we  do 
not  have  a climate  dry  enough  or  seasona- 
bly predictable  enough  to  have  developed 
an  extensive  bulbous  flora  of  our  own  and, 
in  order  to  grow  bulbs  from  other  coun- 
tries, we  compromise  and  provide  for  the 
plant’s  wants  and  needs  as  best  we  can 
with  a variety  of  concessions  and  subter- 
fuges, conventionally  called  growing  con- 
ditions. Where  a plant  will  not  fit  to  our 
regime  but  demands  an  exact  simulation 
of  its  wild  conditions,  it  is  often  called 
‘miffy’  (sic)  or  ‘difficult,’  but  if  you  want 
to  grow  it  and  cannot  provide  the  correct 
conditions,  please  do  not  blame  the  plant. 
The  growing  conditions  for  bulbs  must 
inevitably  be  compromises,  as  few  of  us 
have  limestone  clay  soils  that  we  can  flood 
with  snow-melt  water  in  spring  and  dry  off 
sharply  in  summer.  And  suburban  alpine 
meadows  are  scarce  in  the  Delaware 
Valley.  More  important  than  simulation 
of  habitat,  however,  is  simulation  of  the 
conditions  to  which  a plant  is  subjected 
in  that  habitat. 

The  sunny  southern  climes  that  many 


Fritillaria  michailovskyi 


bulbs  come  from  and  the  arid  appearance 
of  many  bulb-rich  habitats  seen  during 
Mediterranean  summer  holidays  when  the 
bulbs  are  dormant  have  led  to  a popular 
misconception,  namely  that  these  bulbs 
must  have  a hot  dry  summer  bake  and  the 
hotter  the  better.  Again,  in  the  wild  this 
apparent  hot  dry  summer  rest  is  tempered 
by  the  cooler  conditions  prevailing  at  the 
depth  of  the  bulb  (10-15°  F cooler  in  fact) 
and  at  this  depth  the  soil  stays  slightly 
moist.  If  this  sounds  fanciful  try  burying 
your  foot  in  the  sand  next  time  you  sizzle 
on  an  Atlantic  beach.  The  heavy  nature  of 
many  soils  in  ‘good  bulb  areas’  can  aid  the 
bulb  by  ensuring  that  moisture  does  not 
evaporate  (resulting  otherwise  in  a flabby 
bulb  prone  to  infection  by  ever-vigilant 
fungi).  In  a small  pot  of  loose-textured  soil 
with  the  bulb  planted  shallowly,  a hot  dry 
summer  rest  can  thus  be  a very  different 
and  more  severe  hot  dry  summer  rest,  and 
in  attempting  to  simulate  what  we  think  to 
be  the  correct  conditions  the  bulbs  need, 
growth  can  often  be  poor,  because  we  have 
not  considered  all  of  the  factors  affecting 
growth.  Very  few  bulbs  do  need  a hot  dry 
bake;  the  vast  majority  respond  far  better 
to  a warm,  dry  regime  with  a little  shade 
from  the  hottest  summer  sun,  and  some 
moisture  remaining  in  the  soil,  thus  mim- 
icking the  conditions  of  the  bulb’s  natural 
environment. 

Free  drainage  is  the  single  most  impor- 
tant aspect  of  cultivation.  Bulbs  rarely 
succeed  enclosed  in  heavy  waterlogged 
soils.  Greater  sunshine  levels  and  free  air 
circulation  also  mean  that  soils  running 
with  water  can  be  bone  dry  only  a few 
weeks  later.  A free  draining  soil  can  be 
running  with  water  — the  important  thing 
is  that  the  water  is  moving , not  stagnant, 
and  the  abundance  of  water  is  often  short- 
lived. Free  draining  but  moisture  retentive 


Iris  reticulata  ‘Natascha’ 


is  less  of  a contradiction  than  it  might  at 
first  seem.  Consider  a mixture  of  sand  and 
peat  through  which  water  passes  freely  but 
which  also  retains  some  of  this  water.  It 
may  not  be  a good  growing  medium  but 
we  can  mix  in  more  sand  and  leafmold,  or 
mushroom  soil  without  losing  the  desir- 
able properties 

It  just  happens  that  many  of  the  more 
desirable  bulbs  come  from  cooler,  damper 
or  higher  elevations.  With  bulbs  from 
higher  altitudes,  some  summer  rain  may 
be  the  norm  and  because  the  growing  sea- 
son will  only  start  after  the  snow  melts  in 
spring,  the  plants  may  grow  on  a cycle 
more  akin  to  our  climate  in  eastern  North 
America.  Thus  many  of  these  mountain 
bulbs  make  good,  undemanding  garden 
plants.  At  even  higher  altitudes,  we  come 
across  what  may  be  called  ‘alpine’  bulbs, 
which  are  covered  in  snow  from  autumn 
until  as  late  as  July.  When  the  snow  melts 
the  plants  are  inundated  with  water  and 
must  then  grow  rapidly  to  complete  their 
development  before  the  autumn  snows 
come  again.  Their  short  growing  season 
may  be  under  the  full  ferocity  of  the  July 
sun  or  it  may  be  tempered  by  the  shade 
afforded  by  competing  vegetation.  Thus 
understanding  the  plant’s  exact  habitat  will 
aid  success  (meadowgrass  habitats  may 
provide  shade,  open  screes  will  not).  At 
low  altitudes  these  same  plants  usually 
emerge  earlier  in  the  year  when  conditions 
can  often  be  persisjently  cold  or  wet,  often 
with  a cold  humid  atmosphere,  quite  un- 
like the  buoyant  July  they  enjoy  in  the 
wild,  and  light  levels  early  in  the  year  are 
much  less  intense  due  to  shorter  days  and 
frequent  cloud.  Cultivating  such  high  al- 
pine bulbs  is  not  easy,  and  we  find  it  best 
to  grow  them  as  cold  as  possible  during 
the  winter  to  delay  the  shoots’  emergence. 
Once  growth  has  started  encourage  it  with 


Narcissus  hulhocodium  romieuxii  ‘Julia  Jane’ 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


(^)  By  Lee  M.  Raden 


abundant  watering,  heavy  feeding  and  free 
air  circulation.  If  the  species  are  shaded  in 
the  wild,  shade  may  be  beneficial  in  keep- 
ing the  plants  green  and  growing  for  as 
long  as  possible,  building  better  bulbs. 

woodland  bulbs 

Woodland  bulbs  fall  into  two  distinct 
groups  for  the  purpose  of  cultivation.  First 
what  we  call  ‘true’  woodland  plants,  which 
are  often  summer  growing  and  like  the 
shade,  moisture,  shelter  and  humidity  that 
woodlands  provide:  e.g.  Arisaema,  Lyco- 
ris,  Leucojum  and  Trillium.  They  are  often 
restricted  to  woods’  edges  or  clearings  or 
damp  pockets  of  leaf  soil  that  do  not  dry  out 
in  summer.  Thus,  in  cultivation,  they  bene- 
fit from  leafmold,  shade  and  a general  simu- 
lation of  woodland  conditions.  Leafmold 
may  be  an  invaluable  aid,  but  its  moisture 
retentive  properties  may  be  too  great  under 
garden  conditions  so  sand/grit  can  improve 
drainage.  A second  group  of  plants  may 
inhabit  woodlands  but  somehow  they  are 
not  true  woodland  plants;  they  use  the  woods 
simply  because  they  provide  the  conditions 
that  they  like  in  an  area  that  may  not  other- 
wise be  suitable:  Sternbergia,  Galanthus, 
Eranthis  and  Fritillaria.  The  wood’s  shade 
may  keep  down  competing  vegetation, 
which  might  overrun  them  in  a meadow 
habitat,  but  the  bulbs  themselves  do  not 
need  the  shade  and  often  grow  and  flower 
throughout  the  autumn  and  spring  when  the 
trees  are  leafless  — e.g.  in  full  sun.  The 


Iris  winogradowii 


Where  a plant  will  not  fit  to  our  re- 
gime but  demands  an  exact  simula- 
tion of  its  wild  conditions,  it  is  often 
called  ‘ miffy ’ or  ‘ difficult but  if  you 
want  to  grow  it  and  cannot  provide 
the  correct  conditions,  please  do  not 
blame  the  plant. 


whole  wood  need  not  be  damp,  particularly 
in  summer,  when  the  trees  are  in  leaf  and 
absorbing  water.  Bulbs  below  these  trees 
can  still  be  subjected  to  a warmer,  drier  rest. 
Leafmold  may  collect  in  pockets  but  it  can 
also  blow  off  higher  areas  or  break  down 
and  incorporate  into  soil,  thus  it  may  be 
neither  essential  nor  desirable  in  cultiva- 
tion. 

assessing  environmental  conditions 

In  presenting  these  contrasts  and  contra- 
dictions, I hope  that  you  will  not  be  con- 
fused; my  aim  is  to  help  but  in  doing  so  I 
wish  to  instill  an  idea  of  enquiry.  I started 
growing  bulbs  in  1965  when  little  advice 
was  available  to  help  grow  the  rarer, 
slightly  more  demanding  plants,  and  my 
idea  was  to  simulate  wild  environments. 
That’s  when  I learned  that  the  important 
thing  is  not  the  environment  but  what 
happens  to  the  bulbs  within  that  enviom- 
ment.  If  you  are  unsure  about  how  to  grow 
a plant  or  wish  to  improve  the  growth  of  a 
plant  you  are  cultivating,  the  wild  habitat 
will  often  provide  many  clues.  An  atlas 
may  give  geological  information  about  the 
bedrock,  and  from  this  you  can  discern 
whether  the  soil  is  acid  or  limey  as  well  as 
its  degree  of  porosity.  The  bedrock  will 
also  help  to  determine  the  type  of  soil  that 
forms  above  it.  Collectors’  notes  about 
soil  type  are  useful  and  more  exact  habitat 
details  may  indicate  whether  the  plant  grew 
naturally  in  a scree  or  a cliff,  a meadow  or 
light  woodland.  The  aspect  of  the  habitat 
may  yield  a clue  — for  example,  a south- 
facing slope  is  hotter  and  drier  than  an 
equivalent  north-facing  slope.  Knowing  the 
total  amount  of  rainfall  and  its  seasonal 
distribution  helps.  Prevailing  winds  (again 
shown  in  many  atlases)  can  interact  with 
altitude  to  create  differentially  wet  or  dry 
habitats  within  the  same  area,  and  altitude 


Crocus  zonatus 


will  determine  whether  or  not  precipita- 
tion comes  as  snow  or  rain.  The  adjacent 
wild  vegetation  will  also  affect  the  condi- 
tions around  the  plant  and,  while  the  influ- 
ence of  trees  will  be  obvious,  remember 
that  scrub,  meadow  grasses  and  creeping 
groundcover  plants  all  influence  the  amount 
of  light,  water  and  air  movement  in  a 
habitat. 

While  I have  suggested  some  composts 
and  soil  recipes,  these  are  only  useful  if 
applied  to  the  conditions  in  which  a plant 
will  subsequently  grow.  In  damp  gardens 
more  grit  or  drainage  may  be  needed,  while 
in  dry  gardens  shade  and  some  summer 
watering  may  be  required  to  ensure  that  a 
warm  drier  summer  rest  is  not  too  hot  or 
dry.  I hope  that  this  will  not  confuse,  but 
adaptation  is  the  rule  rather  than  rigid 
mixing  of  compost  recipes.  Success  does 
not  come  from  magic  formulae  or  secret 
ingredients  but,  I cannot  say  it  too  often, 
from  a balance  of  correct  conditions. 

Growing  Bulbs  from  Seed 
Containers:  Always  select  as  deep  a con- 
tainer as  is  available,  preferably  4"-5". 
Using  only  one  size  container  enables  you 
to  make  the  most  efficient  cubic  use  of 
your  seed  raising  area  — containers  can  be 
moved  about  easily,  consolidating  germi- 
nated seed,  grouping  together  seedlings 
needing  similar  growing  conditions  and 
discarding  ungerminated  seed  after  a rea- 
sonable period.  For  most  amateur  purposes, 
a container  3 1/2  inches  square  can  be  used 
to  raise  a sufficient  number  of  bulbs.  About 
12  mature  bulbs  of  most  dwarf  species  can 
be  grown  in  it  but  it  is  not  too  large  for  a 
single  plant.  It  is  adequate  for  many  seed- 
lings for  several  years. 

Growing  Medium:  A mixture  of  one-half 
loam,  one-half  stream  sand*  is  satisfactory 
for  most  species  in  their  early  stages. 
Growing  conditions  and  treatment  are  more 
important  than  the  medium  itself.  A peat- 
based  compost  with  added  nutrients  is  not 
suited  to  most  bulbs.  Nutrients  will  usu- 
ally have  leached  out  before  germination 
occurs  and  the  peat  retains  too  much  mois- 
ture. Better  to  mix  your  own  loam  and 
stream  sand.  A sterile  mixture  is  not  nec- 
essary nor  is  the  addition  of  artificial  fer- 
tilizer. After  germination,  use  a balanced 
liquid  feed  to  aid  development.  Use  a mix 


*Stream  sand:  dug  out  of  local  stream;  if  none  avail- 
able use  Jersey  gravel  (sand  with  particulates)  avail- 
able from  most  lumber  yards. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


continued 


fairly  low  on  nitrogen  but  high  on  potash. 
Peters’  Root-N-Bloom  5-50-17  one-half 
strength  is  my  standard  dilution.  The  Pe- 
ters’ can  be  used  whenever  watering  is 
necessary  during  the  growing  season. 

Obtain  Seed  from  your  own  plants,  plant 
societies,  some  commercial  sources  and 
friends.  Many  ‘bulbs’  are  self-sterile  so 
that  you  need  more  than  one  clone  to  obtain 
seed.  Commercial  bulb-stocks  are  often  of 
a single  self-sterile  clone,  which  is  in- 
creased vegetatively,  and  which  will  never 
set  seed  no  matter  how  many  plants  of  it 
you  have.  In  nature,  many  ‘bulbs’  do  not 
set  seed  freely.  When  they  do,  those  set- 
ting seed  deteriorate  or  even  die;  at  best, 
they  will  not  normally  flower  again  for 
several  years.  With  good  cultivation,  it  is 
possible  to  flower  ‘bulbs'  annually  and  to 
try  to  take  a crop  of  seed  from  them.  You 
should  always  try  that  with  new  or  scarce 
material;  home-raised  batches  of  seedlings 
offer  the  best  chance  of  establishing  new 
material  in  cultivation. 

When  to  Sow  Seed:  A general  rule  is  “as 
soon  as  possible.”  There  is  no  harm  in 
keeping  seed  of  most  summer-dormant 
species  until  October  and  then  sowing  all 
together.  If  it  is  not  your  own  seed,  it  is 
seldom  possible  to  obtain  it  until  much 
later.  Sow  it  as  soon  as  you  receive  it  and 
be  patient.  Some  seed  is  always  best  sown 
immediately.  Cyclamen  are  best  sown  as 
soon  as  the  capsule  opens;  if  these  must  be 
stored,  they  are  best  left  uncleaned  in  the 
capsules  and  refrigerated.  This  also  ap- 
plies to  several  Ranunculaceae : some 
Ranunculus  spp.,  Anemone  spp., 
Thalictrum  tuberosum  and  T.  orientale  drop 
their  seed  while  it  is  still  green  and  must  be 
refrigerated  without  delay  if  they  are  to 
germinate  from  late-sowing.  Soaking 
mature  seed  of  Iris  and  Cyclamen  for  one 
to  two  days  in  warm  water  before  sowing 
sometimes  helps  germination  When  win- 
ter-sowing any  summer  dormant  species, 
keeping  the  newly  sown  seed  at  room  tem- 
perature for  one  to  two  weeks  before 
exposing  to  cold  may  aid  germination  the 
following  spring  by  allowing  the  seed  to 
take  in  moisture  before  exposure  to  cold. 

Sowing  Seed:  Fill  the  containers;  settle  or 
firm  the  medium.  Most  ‘bulb’  seeds  are 
comparatively  large,  so  if  the  number  of 
each  species  is  small,  it  is  worth  sowing 
individually  and  spacing  out  evenly.  Flat 
seeds,  like  Tulipa  and  Fritillaria  can  be 
sown  on  their  sides;  this  does  help  prevent 
rotting.  Cover  seed  with  coarse  grit;  level 
surface;  stand  containers  as  level  as  pos- 


sible and  water  them  in.  (If  the  square  pot 
is  not  level,  watering  will  be  uneven  leav- 
ing some  dry  spots.) 

Germination:  Germination  usually  occurs 
when  the  mature  bulb  appears  above 
ground.  With  cold-climate  species,  this 
means  in  spring  after  snow  has  melted. 
During  this  comparatively  short  period, 
examine  containers  of  ungerminated  seeds 
regularly,  so  that  those  with  germinating 
seeds  can  be  separated  and  given  more 
light.  Seed  of  summer-dormant  species  is 
unlikely  to  germinate  in  summer,  so  little 
attention  is  necessary.  Species,  which  grow 
at  low  altitudes  in  a Mediterranean  cli- 
mate, are  activated  by  a drop  in  mean  tem- 
perature and  will  germinate  in  fall.  Cycla- 
men and  some  Alstroemeria  are  in  this 
group.  High  temperatures  inhibit  germina- 
tion. In  the  Delaware  Valley,  germinated 
seed  should  be  grown  over  winter  in  pro- 
tected conditions,  preferably  frost-free. 
Germination  among  bulbs  is  both  epigeal 
(the  seed-leaf  appears  above  ground,  e.g. 
Allium , Fritillaria,  etc.),  and  hypogeal, 
where  it  remains  below  ground  to  form  a 
‘bulb’  first,  so  that  the  leaf  which  appears 
is  the  first  ‘true’  leaf  ( Cyclamen , etc.). 
Some  species  (some  Lilium  are  the  best- 
known)  show  delayed  hypogeal  germina- 
tion, where  a ‘bulb’  is  formed  the  first  year 
and  the  first  leaf  does  not  appear  until  the 
second  year.  Keep  ungerminated  seed  for 
at  least  three  years. 

Growing-on  Seedlings:  It  may  be  prefer- 
able to  remove  seedlings  to  a more  pro- 
tected environment  to  make  sure  your 
young  seedlings  make  the  most  of  the  first 
short  growing  season.  Liquid-feeding  is  a 
must.  Try  to  keep  them  growing  for  as 
long  as  possible.  Apart  from  these  simple 
cultural  needs,  only  normal  safeguards 
regarding  ‘bulbs’  are  necessary:  contain- 
ers of  both  germinated  and  ungerminated 
seed  should  be  kept  tidy  and  free  from 
weeds;  control  rodents  by  trapping  or 


Romulea  bulbocodium  clusiana 


covering  with  wire-netting  if  necessary; 
use  a systemic  insecticide  early  to  control 
aphids;  use  a soil  insecticide  as  often  as 
necessary,  depending  on  its  persistence;  a 
systemic  fungicide  may  be  worth  using  at 
least  once  in  the  growing  season;  most 
‘bulbs’  produce  only  one  leaf  in  the  first 
season  so  efficient  control  of  slugs  and 
snails  is  essential.  Make  such  preventative 
measures  standard  procedure  if  you  are 
growing  a collection  of  bulbs.  When  seed- 
lings go  dormant,  do  not  expose  them  to 
dehydrating,  high  summer  temperatures. 
They  are  best  placed  outdoors  in  a shaded 
place;  even  then  the  soil  in  a container  is 
likely  to  reach  the  temperature  of  the  sur- 
rounding air,  which  is  likely  to  be  much 
higher  than  the  soil-termperature  in  the 
‘bulbs’  natural  environment.  Watering 
lightly  may  be  necessary  for  high-altitude 
species  even  when  dormant.  Most  ‘bulbs’ 
can  be  expected  to  flower  in  three-five 
years  from  germination;  if  you  sow  some 
seed  every  year,  after  the  first  few  years, 
you  will  have  new  batches  flowering  each 
season.  Apart  from  the  fact  that  some 
‘bulbs’  can  only  be  increased  satisfacto- 
rily by  seed  (for  example  — the  whole 
genus  Cyclamen,  some  Fritallaria  and 
some  ‘Juno’  Iris),  seed  is  the  only  method 
of  securing  a disease-free,  breeding  stock 
of  different  clones.  In  all  of  horticulture 
nothing  is  as  rewarding  as  that  first  flower 
on  a bulb  seedling  after  you  have  waited 
three  to  five  years  from  germination. 

• 

Lee  M.  Raden  is  president  of  the  American 
Rock  Garden  Society.  A Flower  Show  exhib- 
itor for  22  years,  Lee  and  co-exhibitor  Julie 
Morris  won  the  “Best  of  Day”  at  the  1989 
Philadelphia  Flower  Show  opening  day  in  the 
Horticultural  Section  for  the  highest  scoring 
blue  ribbon  entry  (two  or  more  varieties  ) for 
their  collection  of  46  bulbs  of  botanical  inter- 
est. Raden’s  interest  in  bulbs  dates  back  15 
years,  and  he  considers  it  an  obsession  and 
addiction. 


Oxalis  versicolor 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


Alpine  house 


Bulb  Frame  and  Alpine  House 

Both  of  these  structures  are  designed  to 
control  the  growing  environment  of  the  bulbs. 
The  bulb  frame  is  unheated,  and  the  growing 
bed  is  approximately  3 feet  deep.  In  the 
coldest  winters  the  soil  temperature  at  12" 
never  goes  below  40°F  allowing  constant 
root  growth  December-March. 

The  Alpine  house  has  controlled  tempera- 
ture - night  temperature  - 33°F;  day  tempera- 
ture - 50°F.  In  both  structures  watering  is 
rigidly  controlled  depending  on  the  growth 
pattern  of  the  particular  bulb. 

The  joy  of  both  structures  is  the  bloom  is 
never  blown  away  or  rained,  sleeted,  or 
snowed  upon.  The  bloom  is  always  to  per- 
fection and  long-lasting. 


Bulb  Seed  Sources 

Mr.  M.  R.  Salmon 
‘Jacklands,’  Jacklands  Bridge 
Tickenham,  Clevedon 
AvonBS21  6SG  - England 

Jim  & Jenny  Archibald 
Bryn  Collen,  Ffostrasol 
Llandysul,  Dyfed 
SA44  5SB  - England 

Scottish  Rock  Garden  Club 
c/o  Miss  K.  M.  Gibb 
21  Merchiston  Park 
Edinburgh  EH  10  4PW 
Scotland 

Alpine  Garden  Club  of  B.  C. 

4875  Skyline  Dr. 

N.  Vancouver,  B.  C. 

Canada  U7R  3J2 

Alpine  Garden  Society 
Lye  End  Link,  St.  Johns 
Woking,  Surrey  GU21  1SW 
England 

The  American  Rock  Garden  Society 
c/o  Buffy  Parker 
15  Fairmead  Rd. 

Darien,  CT  06820 


Free  drainage  is  the  single  most  im- 
portant aspect  of  cultivation. 


The  Author’s  Personal  Favorites 


n 


Fritillaria  michailovskyi  - A native  of  north- 
east Turkey  growing  on  screes  and  earth 
slopes  at  approximately  4,500  to  7,500  ft. 
Admiral  Paul  Furse  First  collected  this  plant 
in  the  1950s.  Blooms  depend  on  the  heat  of 
the  spring  (hot,  you  get  bloom  first  like 
photo;  cool,  leaves  first,  followed  by  flower). 
Usually  blooms  mid-April. 

Crocus  tomasinianus  ‘Claret  Form’  - A rich 
deep  rosy  purple,  easily  the  deepest  color 
form  of  this  species,  which  often  causes  late 
March  visitors  to  stop  in  their  tracks.  My 
good  friend,  Ray  Cobb,  of  Nottingham, 
England  has  preserved  and  spread  this  su- 
perb crocus. 

Iris  reticulata  ‘Natascha’  - A wonderful 
new  cultivar  with  ivory  to  ice  blue  falls  with 
a golden  blotch.  Treat  like  all  reticulate  iris 
and  wait  for  that  day  in  March  when  they 
scream  “Spring  is  here!” 

Narcissus  bulbocodium  romieuxii'  Julia  Jane’ 
- An  exceptionally  beautiful  form  selected 
from  a collection  made  by  Jim  Archibald 
under  the  collection  #JCA805  in  the  late 
1960s  from  the  cedar  forests  of  the  Atlas 
Mountains  in  Morocco.  Large,  very  widely 
flaring  trumpets  of  soft  yellow  looking  very 
much  like  a petunia,  make  this  the  yellow 
counterpart  of  Narcissus  cantabricus 
‘Petunioides,’  but  ‘Julia  Jane’  is  easier  to 
flower  and  more  floriderous.  Blooms  late 
January. 

Iris  winogradowii  (Reticulata)- A fabulous 
and  rather  rare  plant  known  from  only  two 
small  areas  of  the  Caucasus  and  very  nearly 
extinct.  Needs  a damp  rich  soil  with  leafmold, 
somewhat  damp  in  the  summer,  and  does  not 
like  root  disturbance.  Takes  two  to  three 
years  to  settle  down.  Bloom  early  April. 

Crocus  kotschyanus  ssp.  kotchyanus  syn.  zo- 
natus  - Fall  blooming  bulbs  have  a special 
place  in  all  gardeners’  hearts,  because  they 
never  fail  to  surprise  us  by  suddenly  appear- 
ing with  no  leaves.  This  crocus  from  Turkey 
grows  in  open  meadows,  often  stony,  at  ele- 
vations of  1,500  to  7,500  ft.  Mid-September 
is  the  time  for  this  crocus  to  sing. 

Iris  willmottiana  ‘Alba’  (Juno)  - The  posi- 
tive identification  of  this  plant  still  awaits  us. 


It  was  collected  by  Dr.  Rodionenko  in  1968 
in  the  Pamir-Alai  range  of  central  Asia.  In 
full  sun,  in  well-drained  soil  the  gorgeoous 
splendor  of  this  Juno  in  mid-May  is  mind- 
boggling.  After  blooming  this  plant  needs 
fairly  warm  almost  dry  summers. 

Romulea  bulbocodium  clusiana  - Native  to 
Spain  and  Portugal,  this  little  romulaea  needs 
considerable  sand  mixed  into  its  soil,  and 
rather  a warm  dryish  summer.  These  plants 
survive  best  in  a bulb  frame  or  cold  frame. 
Bloom  time  - late  April,  early  May. 

Oxalis  versicolor  - A beautiful  South  Afri- 
can bulbous  oxalis  for  a frost-free  environ- 
ment such  as  Alpine  house,  insulated  cold 
frame  or  bulb  frame.  Flower  in  January.  The 
photo  shows  the  unique  red-edged  twisted 
white  flower.  Fully  opens  in  direct  sunlight. 

Iris  regeliocyclus  ‘Chione’  - The  cross  of 
regelia  x oncocylus  hybrids  by  the  Dutch 
firm  Van  Tubergen  has  given  us  the  easygo- 
ing nature  of  regelia  species  with  the  su- 
perbly beautiful  but  sometimes  tricky  on- 
cocylus. They  are  free-flowering  and  vigor- 
ous plants.  When  planted  outside  in  a cold 
frame,  bulb  frame  or  very  sunny  spot  in  a 
well-drained  garden  and  fertilized  gener- 
ously, they  will  give  great  results. 

Lewisia  brachycalyx- This  exclusive  Ameri- 
can genus  belongs  to  the  family  Portu- 
lacaceae  and  has  been  a poor  cousin  in  our 
gardens  until  the  British  got  hold  of  it,  hy- 
bridized many  of  the  species  and  now  we 
can’t  get  enough  of  them.  Lewisia  brachy- 
calyx is  my  favorite.  The  bloom  in  its  deli- 
cacy is  breathtaking.  It  grows  along  moun- 
tain lake  shores  in  damp,  not  wet,  soil  and 
also  among  open  pine  stands  in  the  White 
mountains  of  southern  California;  it  is  also 
found  in  Utah,  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  I 
grow  it  in  the  bulb  frame  where  it  blooms  in 
late  April. 

Narcissus  ‘Nylon’  - John  Blanchard,  the 
great  English  narcissus  expert,  crosses  Nar- 
cissus bulbocodium  romieuxii  with  Narcis- 
sus bulbocodium  foliosus  to  give  us  this 
wonderfully  scented  milk-white  hybrid.  It 
blooms  very  early  in  the  Alpine  house,  usu- 
ally for  Christmas. 


Iris  regeliocyclus  “Chione- 


Lewisia  brachycalyx 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


drawings  by  Susie  Ganoe 


26 


As  a long-time  bulb-grower  I didn’t 
think  the  task  of  assembling  a list 
of  reliable  sources  would  present  a 
challenge.  As  I compiled  the  list  printed 
here,  however,  the  names  of  suppliers  grew 
almost  as  numerous  and  varied  as  types  of 
bulbs.  Yet  in  the  end,  as  in  the  case  of  bulbs, 
there  seemed  to  be  a handful  of  old  stand- 
bys known  to  all  serious  bulb-growers 
because  they  offer  only  first  quality  bulbs  at 
all  times. 

The  names  of  the  best  known  and  most 
frequently  recommended  suppliers  follow, 
but  first  a few  observations  gleaned  from 
the  various  comments  and  suggestions 
offered  by  the  many  kind  people  who  con- 
tributed to  this  compendium. 

In  seeking  out  suppliers,  many  growers 
want  to  avoid  those  selling  wild-grown 
bulbs.*  There’s  never  a 100%  guarantee, 
but  the  reliability  of  the  old  standby  sup- 
pliers, many  of  which  are  relatively  small 
family  businesses  selling  from  an  informal 
mailing  list,  is  greater  than  large  merchan- 
disers. 

Other  considerations  about  suppliers 
enter.  While  there  are  many  excellent  gar- 
den centers,  some  of  these  merchants  have 
difficulty  policing  customers  who  put  bulbs 
back  in  the  wrong  bin.  In  addition,  many 
of  the  smaller  garden  centers  limit  the  se- 
lection to  the  faster  selling  tulips,  daffo- 
dils, and  crocuses.  Consequently,  experi- 
enced growers  frequently  search  out  more 
specialized  suppliers  from  Oregon  to 
Australia  to  South  Africa  to  Holland. 

Importing  dormant  bulbs  directly  is  not 
a big  problem  providing  the  shipper  is 
known  to  be  reliable.  The  duty  is  low  and 
import  permits  are  no  longer  necessary. 
Only  a phytosanitary  certificate  issued  at 
the  place  of  origin  is  required,  and  the 
established  overseas  shippers  know  how 
to  comply  with  these  procedures. 

On  the  other  hand,  purchasing  from 
unknown  growers  and  shippers  abroad  is 
fraught  with  perils  and  pitfalls  ranging  from 
bulbs  of  unknown  origin  to  delayed  ship- 
ment. Neither  is  it  prudent  for  travelers  to 
return  with  bulbs  in  their  luggage,  even 
those  permitted  or  accompanied  by  certifi- 
cates, since  airport  customs  agents  often 
unfamiliar  with  both  horticulture  and  the 
import  regulations,  may  see  the  bulbs  as 
bearers  of  disease  or  worse. 

Overseas  purchasers  should  request  air 
mail  shipment.  Orders  to  Europe  should 
go  by  July  15th,  but  there  is  always  the 
risk  of  delayed  shipment  if  the  local  sea- 
son is  late.  Bulbs  imported  from  the  South- 
ern Hemisphere  countries,  such  as  Austra- 
lia and  South  Africa,  usually  require  two 
years  to  flower. 

The  list  of  overseas  suppliers  does  not 
the  green  scene  / july  1989 


include  names  from  Holland  because  Dutch 
bulbs  can  be  found  in  almost  all  U.S.  garden 
centers,  nurseries,  and  catalogs,  and  the 
selection  as  well  as  the  prices  in  the  Neth- 
erlands is  no  better. 

Given  the  shipping  and  other  uncertain- 
ties, there  is  little  need  to  look  overseas  for 
exotic  or  specialized  bulbs.  There  are  many 
reliable  American  sources.  In  nearby 
Wilmington,  Dick  Both  is  a very  good 
limited  private,  noncommercial  source  of 
specialized  bulbs,  which  he  has  collected 
over  the  years.  Charles  Mueller,  an  old 
standby  supplier  of  all  kinds  of  bulbs  from 
his  River  Road  location  in  New  Hope,  is 
also  an  excellent  source  of  specialized 
items. 

Many  of  the  preferred  bulb  suppliers 
popular  with  Philadelphia’s  most  success- 
ful exhibitors  are  located  some  distance 
from  the  Northeast.  Frequently  the  old 
standbys  have  been  operated  by  the  same 
family  for  several  generations.  These  in- 
clude Grant  E.  Mitsch  Daffodils,  Huggard, 
Oregon;  Murray  W.  Evans,  Corbett,  Ore- 
gon; Bio-Quest  International,  Santa  Bar- 
bara, California;  Hatfield  Gardens, 
Stoutsville,  Ohio;  Daffodil  Mart,  Glouc- 
ester, Virginia;  McClure  & Zimmerman, 
Friesland,  Wisconsin;  and  Oakwood  Daf- 
fodils, Niles,  Michigan. 

No  mention  of  old  standbys  can  omit 
two  legendary  names  in  catalogs,  Burpee 
and  Scheepers.  While  the  W.  Atlee  Burpee 
Company  is  better  known  for  its  flower 
and  vegetable  seeds,  Charles  Cresson  and 
the  company’s  other  highly  knowledge- 
able bulb  specialists  rank  with  the  best  in 
the  country  and  their  products  are  always 
of  first  quality.  John  Scheepers,  Inc.,  which 
once  bore  a Wall  Street  address  and  is  now 
located  in  Middletown,  N.Y.,  produces  one 
of  the  most  comprehensive  of  all  catalogs 
under  the  guidance  of  Stephen  Van  eeden, 
a virtual  encyclopedia  of  bulb  knowledge. 

The  full  list  of  catalog  suppliers  of  qual- 
ity bulbs  is  actually  quite  long,  and  there 
are  a number  of  newsletter  type  publica- 
tions offering  specialized  bulbs.  Among 
the  general  catalogs.  Park  Seed  Company, 
Wayside  Gardens,  and  White  Flower  Farm 
are  frequently  mentioned. 

The  following  list  of  bulb  suppliers  is  by 
no  means  complete,  but  should  provide 
any  bulb-grower  with  a comprehensive 
range  of  sources.  It  was  compiled  through 
the  courtesy  of  a large  number  of  bulb- 
lovers  too  numerous  to  mention,  but  ac- 
knowledgement and  special  thanks  goes  to 
Kitty  Washburn,  Kathryn  Andersen,  Lee 
M.  Raden,  Walt  Fisher,  Dick  Kersten,  and 
Mary  Mills  for  their  advice  and  assistance. 

*See  article  Species  Bulbs:  Question  Your  Sources. 
by  Faith  Campbell  on  page  32  of  this  issue. 

...  continued 

the  green  scene  / july  1989 


28 


Suppliers  of  General  Bulbs 

(most  varieties  unless  noted) 


NOTE:  Readers  are  cautioned  that  the  availability  of  bulbs  from  given  suppliers  is  not  always  certain  and  names  and  addresses  are  sometimes  subject  to  change. 
Inquire  about  cost. 


United  States  (listed  alphabetically) 

**  B & D Lilies 
330  “P”  Street 
Port  Townsend  WA  98368 

Bio-Quest  International  (S.  African  bul- 
bous material) 

P.O.  Box  5752 

Santa  Barbara  CA  93150 

**  Borbeleta  Gardens  - Lilies 
Route  5,  15974  Canby  Avenue 
Fairbault  MN  55021 

* Bonnie  Brae  Gardens 

1 105  Southeast  Christensen  Road 
Corbett  OR  97019 

Bundles  of  Bulbs  - Kitty  Washbume 
112  Greenspring  Valley  Road 
Owings  Mills  MD  21117 

W.  Atlee  Burpee 
300  Park  Avenue 
Warminster  PA  18991 

* Daffodil  Mart 
Route  3,  Box  794 
Gloucester  V A 23061 

Peter  de  Jager  Bulb  Co. 

188  Asbury  Street 

P.O.  Box  2010 

South  Hamilton  M A 01982 

Doomborsch  Bros. 

Morgantown  PA  19543 

* Murray  W.  Evans 

3500  Southeast  Manthey  Road 
Corbett  OR  97019 

* Hatfield  Gardens 

22799  Ringgold  Southern  Road 
Stoutsville  OH  43154 

John  D.  Lyon,  Inc. 

143  Alewife  Brook  Parkway 
Cambridge  M A 02 1 40 

Mary  Mattison  van  Schaik 
Cavendish  VT  05142 

McClure  and  Zimmerman 
108  West  Winnebago 
P.O.  Box  368 
Friesland  WI  53935 

Messelaar  Bulb  Co. 

150  County  Road 
Ipswich  MA  01938 


* Grant  E.  Mitsch  Daffodils 
P.O.  Box  218 
Hubbard  OR  97032 

Montrose  Nursery 

P.O.  Box  957  Hillsborough  NC  27278 

Charles  H.  Mueller 

River  Road,  New  Hope  PA  18938 

* Oakwood  Daffodils 
2330  West  Bertraned 
Niles  MI  49120 

George  W.  Park  Seed  Co 
S.C.  Hwy.  254  N.  Greenwood 
South  Carolina  29647 

John  Scheepers,  Inc. 

Philipsburg  RD  2 
Middletown  NY  10940 

Anthony  J.  Skittone 
1415  Eucalyptus  Drive 
San  Francisco  C A 94116 

Ty  Ty  Plantation 
P.O.  Box  159 
Ty  Ty  GA  31795 

Van  Engelen  Inc. 

Stillbroook  Farm 
307  Maple  Street 
Litchfield  CT  06759 

Mary  M.  Walker  Bulb  Co. 

P.O.  Box  256 
Omega  G A 31775 

Wayside  Gardens 
1 Garden  Lane 
Hodges  SC  29695-0001 

White  Flower  Farm 
Rt.  63 

Litchfield  CT  06759 

* Nancy  R.  Wilson 
571  Woodmont  Avenue 
Berkeley  CA  94708 

Guy  Wrinkle 

11610  Addison  Street 

North  Hollywood  CA  91601 

Overseas 

Avon  Bulbs 
Upper  Westwood 
Bradford-On-Avon, 

Wiltshire  BA  15  2AT  England 


* Ballydom  Bulb  Farm 
Killinchy,  Co.  Down 
Northern  Ireland 

Broadleigh  Gardens 
Bishops  Hull,  Taunton 
Somerset,  England 

* Camcaim  Daffodils  Ltd. 

Camcaim  Lodge 
Broughshane  Co.  Antrim 
Ballymena,  Northern  Ireland 

P & J Christian 
Pentre  Cottages 
Minera,  Wrexham 

Clwyd  LL  1 1 3DP  North  Wales,  Eng- 
land 

* H.  G.  Cross 

254  Geilston  Bay  Road 

Geilston  Bay,  Tasmania  7015  Australia 

Indigenous  Gladiolus  Nursery 
44  Nederburgh  Street 
Welgemoed  Bellville  7530  Republic 
South  Africa 

* Jackson’s  Daffodils 
P.O.  Box  77,  Geeveston 
Tasmania  7116  Australia 

* Koanga  Daffodils 
Box  4129 

Hamilton  East,  New  Zealand 

* Clive  Postles  Daffodils 
The  Old  Cottage 
Purshull  Green,  Droitwich 
Worchestershire  WR9  ONL  England 

Potterton  & Martin 
Moortown  Road,  Nettleton 
Near  Caiston,  North  Lings  LN7  6HX 
England 

* Rathowen  Daffodils 
Knowhead,  Dergmonex 
Omagh  Co.  Tyrone 
Northern  Ireland  BT781PN 

* Mrs.  J.  Abel  Smith 
Letty  Green  nr. 

Hertford,  England 


* Daffodils  only 
**  Lilies  only 


• 

Susie  Ganoe  is  a Garden  Club  of  America  artis- 
tic judge,  a member  of  the  Garden  Club  of 
Philadelphia  and  of  the  Garden  Club  of  Prince- 
ton. She  is  a long-time  Flower  Show  exhibitor 
with  many  ribbons  to  her  credit,  many  in  the 
bulb  section;  she  is  also  a dedicated  Show 
volunteer. 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


photo  courtesy  of  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gardens 


BOOKS  AND  THE  GREEN  WORLD 


Clean  and  round. 

Heavy  and  sound, 

In  every  bulb  a flower. 

Adventures  with  Hardy  Bulbs 
Louise  Beebe  Wilder,  p.3 


When  I was  first  writing  the  Books 
and  the  Green  World  articles 
for  the  Green  Scene  in  the  early 
1970s,  I often  pulled  older  garden  books 
from  the  shelves  of  the  PHS  library  to  read 
for  inspiration  and  ideas.  After  all  these 
years,  I am  still  drawn  to  the  older  titles. 
But  something  has  happened  in  the  inter- 
vening 17  years.  I have  found  a new  group 
of  “older”  books  to  turn  to  in  addition  to 
some  fine  new  books.  The  books  in  this 
article  are  ones  I’ve  used  in  garden  plan- 
ning for  my  work  as  horticulturist  at  Bl- 
ithewold  in  Bristol,  Rhode  Island;  books 
that  helped  me  when  PHS  member  Lee 
Raden  and  I were  trying  to  make  sure  at 
least  40  of  the  200  pots  of  bulbs  we  were 
forcing  for  the  Flower  Show  would  be  in 
bloom  for  the  Botanical  Collections  class 
on  March  4;  and  books  that  my  gardening 
friends  have  told  me  they  find  useful. 

Hal  Bruce’s  book,  Winterthur  in  Bloom, 
is  a great  place  to  begin.  The  March  Walk 
at  Winterthur  is  a thrilling  sight  in  late 
winter  and  early  spring.  “Winter  refines 
our  senses,  preparing  us  for  the  glories  of 

continued 


"lUll 

Jin 

30 


bulbs 


spring.  In  February,  a tiny  snowdrop  seems 
as  lovely  as  any  of  summer’s  roses...”  Hal 
Bruce  was  an  inspired  horticulturist  and  a 
gifted  writer.  Not  only  are  his  descriptions 
of  the  spring  bulbs  at  Winterthur  breath- 
taking, he  offers  practical  advice  as  well. 
We  may  not  be  planting  bulbs  on  a scale 
comparable  to  Winterthur,  but  we  can 
benefit  from  his  advice.  “Visitors  to  Win- 
terthur will  notice  two  things  about  the 
daffodils:  mixing  of  varieties  is  rigorously 
avoided,  and  the  beds  or  drifts  are  ex- 
tremely irregular  in  shape.  Nothing  gives 
so  patchy  an  effect  as  a large  mixed  plant- 
ing of  daffodils...  uniformity  is  a great 
virtue  here.  A drift  of  yellow  trumpets 
may  contrast  beautifully  with  a drift  of 
white  nearby,  but  mixing  within  the  beds 
is  disastrous.  Uniformity  can  of  course 
become  the  vice  of  monotony.  To  counter- 
act this,  the  daffodils  at  Winterthur  are 
planted  by  means  of  an  interesting  and  so 
far  as  I know,  unique  method  developed 
years  ago  by  Mr.  du  Pont.  Once  the  dimen- 
sions of  a new  bed  have  been  roughly 
determined,  fallen  branches  are  used  to 
outline  it.  The  result  is  a series  of  grace- 
fully irregular  curves  — the  pleasing  lines 
of  nature  itself.”  Hal  Bruce  introduces  us 
to  scores  of  the  lesser  known  bulbs  in  a 
graceful  way  describing  them  as  they  come 
into  bloom  and  citing  the  color  combina- 
tions that  draw  thousands  of  visitors  to 
Winterthur  each  spring.  Time  spent  with 
the  winter  and  spring  chapters  in  Winter- 
thur in  Bloom  will  be  equally  rewarding. 

The  days  may  be  past  when  we  could 
plant  our  first  bulb  garden  for  $10.00  as 
Gertrude  Wister  suggests  we  can  in  Hardy 
Garden  Bulbs.  Her  planting  plans  for 
combinations  of  bulbs,  however,  are  still 
most  useful.  How  to  plant  bulbs  in  flower 
beds,  under  trees  or  mixed  with  herba- 
ceous plants  is  clearly  explained.  The 
author’s  straightforward  description  of  the 
differences  between  bulbs,  corms  and 
tubers,  etc.,  is  one  of  the  clearest  and 
shortest  I’ve  read,  a once-and-for-all  sort 
of  explanation.  Summer  and  autumn  flow- 
ering bulbs  aren't  forgotten.  I remember 
seeing  lilies  blooming  in  the  author’s 
Swarthmore  garden  in  graceful  combina- 
tions with  other  plants.  Her  companion 
planting  suggestions  take  color,  form  and 
texture  into  consideration.  The  fact  that 
Gertrude  Wister  gardens  in  the  Philadel- 
phia area  makes  her  suggestions  even  more 
timely  for  most  Green  Scene  readers.  Her 
book,  like  her  garden,  is  designed  for  all 
seasons. 


The  Front  Drive  and  Pond  at  Winterthur 
Museum  and  Gardens. 


The  Bulb  Book,  by  Martyn  Rix  and  Roger 
Phillips,  is  definitely  heavy  duty.  It  is  the 
only  book  I know  that  contains  photographs 
of  nearly  every  hardy  bulb  you  can  think 
of;  roots,  bulb,  stems,  flowers,  cross  sec- 
tions of  flowers  and  all.  The  photos  are  t 
to  t life  size,  and  more  than  800  bulbs  are 
pictured.  The  book  is  designed  for  garden- 
ers and  as  a guide,  although  a bit  too  large 
to  slip  into  a jean’s  pocket.  Endangered 
species  are  marked  with  an  asterisk;  a 
warning  flag  to  help  us  determine  which 
dealers  might  be  selling  collected  rather 
than  cultivated  bulbs.  Most  of  the  bulbs 
are  available  from  the  nurseries  listed  in 
the  back  of  the  book.  Seed  lists  offered  by 
plant  societies  to  their  members  are  often 
the  best  sources  of  hard-to-find  seed.  Those 
listed  in  the  book  are  in  England  or  Scot- 
land. Most  offer  overseas  memberships, 
and  of  course  there  is  the  American  Rock 
Garden  Society’s  seed  list  to  look  forward 
to  every  year. 

The  authors  offer  basic  cultural  infor- 
mation that  is  clear  and  to  the  point.  The 
native  habitats  and  growing  requirements 
for  all  the  plants  pictured  are  given.  After 
seeing  all  that  is  available  in  this  book,  it 
will  be  hard  to  settle  for  Red  Emperor 
tulips  or  King  Alfred  daffodils,  as  lovely 
as  they  are.  There  are  many  tempting  plants 
that,  with  a bit  of  perseverance,  you  can 
find  and  grow. 

The  book  is  organized  by  time  of  bloom 
with  splendid  photos  of  the  autumn  crocus 
and  colchicums  rounding  out  the  year.  It  is 
exciting  to  see  so  many  of  the  plants  pic- 
tured in  their  native  habitats;  especially 
striking  are  the  lilies  and  their  relatives 
growing  in  the  Himalayas  and  China.  You 
won’t  tire  of  looking  through  this  book.  It 
gives  us  a sense  of  the  excitement  the  early 
plant  explorers  must  have  felt  as  they 
rushed  headlong  into  the  fields  of  aspho- 
dels. 


Brian  Mathew’s  book.  The  Smaller 
Bulbs,  is  for  the  grower  who  is  a collector 
as  well.  It  is  really  a companion  book  to 
the  book  by  Rix  and  Phillips,  but  written 
on  a more  personal  level.  The  author  is  a 
taxonomic  botanist  at  Kew  Gardens  who 
is  also  a keen  gardener.  The  photographs 
in  the  book  are  his,  so  you  know  he  has 
seen  Tulipa  montana  in  Iran  and  the  rare 
Sternbergia  Candida  growing  in  Turkey. 
Mr.  Mathew’s  sense  of  excitement  about 
growing  all  he  describes  is  catching,  and 
his  book  is  the  right  guide  for  the  adven- 
ture. 

Closer  to  home  we  have  the  American 
classic  by  Elizabeth  Lawrence,  The  Little 
Bulbs.  No  book  has  taken  its  place  in  the 
30  years  since  it  was  published,  so  it  is 


One  page  with  descriptions  of  species 
crocus  has  a muddy  fingerprint  on  it. 
My  friend’s  garden  was  full  of  crocus, 
spring  and  autumn  blooming,  and  I 
can  see  her  now,  book  in  one  hand,  a 
brown  bag  of  crocus  corms  in  the 
other. 


back  again  newly  re-published.  Like  Brian 
Mathew,  Elizabeth  Lawrence  grew  what 
she  wrote  about  and  draws  the  reader  into 
her  descriptions  with  great  skill.  She  takes 
you  along  while  she  looks  for  some  of  the 
newest  and  tiniest  hybrids  of  Narcissus 
triandrus  in  her  collection.  You  find  your- 
self picking  up  your  own  feet  as  she  de- 
spairs over  stepping  on  some  tiny  buds  on 
her  search.  Fortunately,  many  of  the  plants 
Elizabeth  Lawrence  grew  are  still  avail- 
able on  plant  society  seed  exchange  lists 
or  from  bulb  specialists.  Not  only  does 
Elizabeth  Lawrence  describe  her  plants  in 
detail,  you  learn  their  history  as  well  and 
read  such  delights  as  the  fact  that  Cycla- 
men europaeum  was  known  as  sowbread. 
It  was  once  so  plentiful  in  woods  of  south- 
ern Europe  that  its  tubers  were  fed  to  the 
pigs!  The  Small  Bulbs  is  a book  to  enjoy 
for  a long  time.  You  come  to  know  the 
author’s  correspondents  as  she  searches 
for  a special  bulb  and  hear  about  her  suc- 
cesses and  failures.  You  will  want  to  keep 
it  beside  Gardens  in  Winter,  a second 
Elizabeth  Lawrence  book  worth  reading 
for  its  chapter  on  bulbs  alone.  I grew 
Narcissus  bulbocodium  ‘Nylon,’  one  of 
the  hoop  petticoat  narcissus,  for  the  first 
time  this  year  and  was  happy  to  read  about 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


it  in  this  book  where  growing  in  a pot 
versus  outdoor  culture  was  discussed.  Its 
reedy  foliage  does  mash  down  under  snow 
and  so  perhaps  is  better  off  in  a pot  in  a 
cool  greenhouse  where  it  can  be  best 
appreciated.  It  was  Elizabeth  Lawrence’s 
aim  to  have,  “a  little  bulb  blooming  in  my 
garden  every  day  of  the  year...”  and  she 
very  nearly  managed  it,  at  least  in  her 
books. 

Other  bulbs  that  benefit  from  pot  culture 
are  described  by  Kathryn  Taylor  and  Edith 
Gregg  in  Winter  Flowers  in  the  Sun-heated 
Pit.  I’ve  always  wanted  a pit  house,  but  so 
far  haven’t  lived  where  one  would  be 
possible.  They  are  ideal  for  forcing  hardy 
bulbs  in  winter,  and  Taylor  and  Gregg 
devote  a good  portion  of  their  book  to  bulb 
culture.  Even  if  you  don’t  have  a pit  house 
or  greenhouse,  the  chapters  on  forcing 
bulbs  are  worthwhile  and  far  more  com- 
plete than  the  quick  guides  given  in  most 
books.  Each  plant  is  described  with  spe- 
cific cultural  instructions,  a boon  to  flower 
show  forcers. 

Once  we’re  back  in  the  garden  again 
after  a winter  of  growing  bulbs  in  pots, 
there  are  several  guides  to  more  ideas  for 
growing  bulbs  in  our  gardens.  Harriet 
Morse’s  book.  Gardening  in  the  Shade,  is 
another  classic  now  reprinted.  The  first 
photo  I turned  to  shows  dwarf  Iris  pumila 
combined  with  forget-me-nots  on  a stone 
terrace.  From  the  terrace  the  author  takes 
us  into  the  woods,  and  we  are  treated  to  a 
year-long  series  of  plant  lists  for  seasonal 
interest  and  differing  soil  conditions.  The 
one  constant  is  the  presence  of  shade  in 
varying  degrees.  Good  writing,  clear  black 
and  white  photographs  and  many  useful 
ideas  testify  to  the  reasons  this  book  had  to 
be  reprinted.  Who  wouldn’t  want,  “con- 
tinuous bloom  in  a shaded  garden  of  little 
care.” 

From  the  spring  and  the  shade,  we  stride 
into  summer  with  John  Baumgardt’s  Bulbs 
For  Summer  Bloom.  Here  we  find  some  of 
the  not-so-hardy  bulbs  such  as  Acidanth- 
era  and  Zephyranthes  in  addition  to  those 
summer-  and  fall-blooming  bulbs  that  don’t 
need  special  care  in  winter.  The  lily  chap- 
ter includes  very  complete  lists  for  selec- 
tion and  culture.  The  A-Z  section  describes 
all  the  bulbs,  corms  and  tubers  that  need 
winter  care.  The  author  makes  it  clear  to  us 
that  the  work  is  worthwhile  and  the  plants 
worthy  of  our  persistence. 

True  to  myself,  I can’t  resist  looking 
through  Louise  Beebe  Wilder’s  Adventures 
With  Hardy  Bulbs,  written  in  1936.  This 


copy  came  to  me  from  an  old  gardening 
friend  who  used  it  in  her  garden  in  Ambler 
for  over  40  years.  It  is  water  and  soil 
marked.  One  page  with  descriptions  of  spe- 
cies crocus  has  a muddy  fingerprint  on  it. 
My  friend’s  garden  was  full  of  crocus, 
spring  and  autumn  blooming,  and  I can  see 
her  now,  book  in  one  hand,  a brown  bag  of 
crocus  corms  in  the  other.  Wilder’s  book 
is  an  adventure  although  she  admits  that 
growing  bulbs  is  less  an  adventure  and 
uncertainty  than  growing  other  plants  at 
least  for  the  first  year  unless  we  have  made 
disastrous  choices.  The  adventure  part 
comes  in  growing  some  of  the  lesser  known 
bulbous  plants  such  as  Calochortus  and 
Fritillaria.  Wilder  challenges  herself  to 
try  all  sorts  of  plants  and  exhorts  her  read- 
ers to  do  the  same.  The  excellent  black  and 
white  photographs  illustrate  the  possibili- 
ties for  us.  Perhaps  many  of  the  bulbs  the 
author  describes  are  now  available  only 
from  plant  society  seed  lists  or  specialist 
nurseries,  but  don’t  let  that  hinder  your 
enjoyment  of  the  book,  after  all  as  she 
writes  so  aptly:  “Where  there  is  no  uncer- 
tainty, there  can  be  no  thrilling  interest; 
never  that  delicious  round-the-comer  feel- 
ing, tingling  and  anticipatory,  that  is  the 
portion  of  those  who  advance,  not  know- 
ing just  what  they  are  going  to  meet,  or 
how  they  will  meet  it.”  Just  think.  Wilder 
is  talking  about  gardeners!  Now,  I know 
why  I agreed  to  produce  an  exhibit  of  forced 
bulbs  for  the  Flower  Show. 

As  I’ve  been  writing  about  books  over 
the  past  week  or  so,  the  pot  of  ‘Unsurpass- 
able’ daffodils  I brought  into  the  house  to 
brighten  up  these  last  few  days  of  Febru- 
ary has  come  into  full  bloom.  I cut  a few 
of  the  flowers  to  put  in  a vase  on  my  desk 
to  enjoy  their  fragrance  while  I work.  I am 
reminded  again  of  the  plantings  of  daffo- 
dils at  Winterthur  and  a quote  by  Hal  Bruce. 
“Much  of  the  charm  of  spring  bulbs  such 
as  daffodils  lies  in  their  evanescence.  They 
begin  to  bloom  almost  as  soon  as  they 
emerge  from  the  bare  ground,  and  they 
disappear  completely  before  the  advent  of 
summer;  thus  they  seem  as  brief  and  fleet- 
ing as  spring  itself.” 

• 

Julie  Morris  is  horticulturist  at  Blithewold 
Gardens  and  Arboretums  in  Bristol,  Rhode 
Island.  Julie  and  co-exhibitor  Lee  Raden  won  a 
Blue  and  Gold,  best  of  day,  for  their  bulb  col- 
lection in  class  200  (for  two  or  more  varieties) 
at  the  1989  Philadelphia  Gower  Show  on  open- 
ing day.  Julie  Morris  was  PHS  librarian  from 
1970  to  1976. 


Bibliography 

Bulbs  for  Summer  Bloom 
J.P.  Baumgardt 
Hawthorn  Books,  Inc. 

N.Y.,  1970 

Winterthur  In  Bloom  (Paperback)* 

Harold  Bruce 

Charles  E.  Merrill  Pub.  Co. 

Columbus,  Ohio,  1968 
(Reprinted  1986 

Henry  Francis  du  Pont  Winterthur  Museum) 
Winterthur,  Delaware 

The  Little  Bulbs 
Elizabeth  Lawrence 
Criterion  Books 
N.Y.,  1957 

Gardens  In  Winter 
Elizabeth  Lawrence 
Harper  and  Bros. 

N.Y.,  1961 

Gardening  In  The  Shade 
Harriet  Morse 
Charles  Scribner’s  Sons 
N.Y.,  1962 

The  Smaller  Bulbs 
Brian  Mathew 
B.  T.  Batsford 
London,  1987 

The  Bulb  Book 
Martyn  Rix,  Roger  Phillips 
Brian  Mathew,  Editor 
Pan  Books,  Ltd. 

London,  1981 

Collin's  Guide  to  Bulbs 
Patrick  Synge 
Collins 
London,  1961 

(recommended  in  several  books  in  this  ar- 
ticle; PHS  has  only  2nd  ed.  London,  1971) 

Winter  Flowers  In  a Sun-heated  Pit 
Kathryn  S.  Taylor  and  Edith  Gregg 
Charles  Scribner’s  Sons 
N.Y.,  1941 

Adventures  with  Hardy  Bulbs 
Louise  Beebe  Wilder 
The  Macmilan  Company 
N.Y.,  1936 

Hardy  Garden  Bulbs 

Gertrude  Wister 

E.  P.  Dutton  and  Co.,  Inc. 

N.Y.,  1964 

These  books  are  available  through  PHS  Library. 
*The  Gardens  of  Winterthur,  by  Harold  Bruce, 
(The  Viking  Press,  New  York,  1968)  is  the  hard- 
cover edition  of  Winterthur  in  Bloom,  and  is 
available  through  the  PHS  Library;  Winterthur  in 
Bloom  is  not.  Winterthur  in  Bloom  may  be  pur- 
chased at  Winterthur  Museum  & Gardens,  Win- 
terthur, Delaware. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


SPECIES  BULBS: 
Question  Your  Sources 

(^)  By  Faith  Campbell 


32 


While  most  of  the  billion  or  more 
bulbs  that  Americans  plant  each 
year  are  hybrids  or  cultivars 
produced  by  breeders,  some  have  been 
collected  from  the  wild.  Particular  species 
are  collected  in  such  quantities  that  wild 
populations  in  certain  areas  become  sev- 
erly  depleted.  If  the  collecting  is  suffi- 
ciently intensive,  and  reaches  all  popula- 
tions of  the  species,  it  may  even  drive  that 
life  form  to  extinction. 

The  bulb  trade  thrives  on  “novelty,”  so 
any  newly  discovered  species  or  variety 
may  instantly  become  the  focus  of  com- 
petitive collecting  campaigns.  The  “dis- 
covery” is  likely  to  be  a form  found  only 
in  a small  area  or  a relict  of  a more  wide- 
spread species  already  severely  depleted. 
No  matter  how  remote  the  habitats  may 
be,  the  history  of  the  plant  trade  is  that 
“diggers”  and  brokers  will  find  the  prize 
and  exploit  it. 

Collecting  for  the  bulb  trade  is  centered 
in  Turkey,  Portugal,  Spain,  and  Asia;  col- 
lecting also  occurs  in  South  America, 
southern  Africa,  and  even  the  United  States. 

The  plants  likely  to  have  been  collected 
from  the  wild  are  many  of  the  small,  early- 
blocming  types.  Sometimes,  they  are  ad- 
vertised as  “wild,”  “species,”  or  “botani- 
cals.”  Sometimes,  however,  they  are  not 
distinguished  in  any  way. 

The  Natural  Resources  Defense  Council 
(NRDC)  first  became  aware  of  the  trade  in 
wild  bulbs  in  1986.  At  that  time,  we  learned 
about  the  large  quantities  of  various  bulb 
species  coming  out  of  Turkey  — a trade 
that  caused  Dr.  Tuna  Ekim  and  other  Turk- 
ish and  European  botanists  to  express  con- 
cern about  its  impact. 

To  determine  the  extent  of  the  trade, 
NRDC  surveyed  25  catalogs  issued  by  bulb 
dealers  to  learn  which  species  they  offered 
for  sale.  Then  we  began  seeking  advice 
from  botanists  and  horticulturists  familiar 
with  the  trade,  to  determine  whether  these 
particular  species  were  propagated  or  col- 
lected and,  if  the  latter,  the  impact  of  such 
collecting.  NRDC  has  sought  information 
from  knowledgeable  people  in  the  United 
States,  Europe,  Turkey,  South  Africa,  and 
India.  European  botanists,  funded  by  the 


TRAFFIC  network  and  Fauna  and  Flora 
Preservation  Society  also  researched  the 
problem. 

All  of  us  recognize  that  it  is  difficult  to 
assess  the  extent  and  impact  of  this  trade. 
One  major  problem  is  that  the  bulbs  are 
usually  not  exported  directly  to  the  United 
States  but  are  sent  to  the  Netherlands.  There 
they  become  mixed  with  plants  from  other 
countries  and  from  Dutch  growers  and  it 
becomes  virtually  impossible  to  establish 
the  origin  of  particular  bulbs.  Worse,  the 
mixed  collection  is  then  advertised  and 
sold  to  Americans  and  others  under  the 
general  label,  “Grown  in  Holland.”  So  far, 
neither  the  Dutch  wholesalers  nor  Ameri- 
can retailers  have  provided  much  assis- 
tance in  our  efforts  to  determine  the  quan- 
tity of  wild-collected  bulbs  entering  the 
United  States. 

Despite  the  difficulties,  we  have  obtained 
sufficient  information  to  substantiate  con- 
servationists’ concerns  and  to  justify  pro- 
tective actions.  And  we  can  warn  garden- 
ers to  avoid  particular  species  that  are 
probably  of  wild  origin, 

the  miniature  narcissus 

The  genus  Narcissus  illustrates  both  what 
is  known  and  the  difficulties  still  remain- 
ing. Daffodils  are  one  of  the  most  popular 
groups  of  spring  bulbs.  The  vast  majority 
of  those  grown  here  are  cultivars  and  showy 
hybrids.  In  recent  years,  however,  there 
has  been  considerable  interest  in  the 
“miniatures,”  some  of  which  are  true  spe- 
cies and  thus  potentially  subject  to  collect- 
ing from  the  wild. 

Our  catalog  survey  yielded  28  apparent 
species  offered  for  sale  by  one  or  more 
outlets.  N.  triandrus  was  sold  by  at  least 
six;  the  subspecies  albus  was  sold  by  six, 
concolor  by  two.  Unfortunately,  European 
botanists  who  have  interviewed  European 
experts  and  bulb  dealers  report  that  spe- 
cies are  always  collected  rather  than  propa- 
gated. According  to  the  European  botanists, 
N.  bulbocodium  conspicuus,  offered 
through  five  catalogs,  is  propagated  to  some 
extent. 

British  ecologist  Mike  Read  visited 
Portugal  last  year,  where  he  confirmed  that 


N.  triandrus  and  N.  bulbocodium  were 
among  the  species  being  exported  from 
that  country. 

Collecting  Narcissus  apparently  peaked 
some  years  ago,  but  the  practice  does 
continue.  Mike  Read  met  with  one  Portu- 
guese dealer  who  claimed  to  export  10- 
12,000  Narcissus  each  year.  A second 
dealer,  with  whom  Read  was  unable  to 
meet,  reportedly  exports  more.  Read  heard 
reports  that  more  than  one  million  bulbs 
had  been  exported  to  the  Netherlands  in 
1986-87,  but  he  could  not  find  written  con- 
firmation. 

Read  found  no  evidence  of  exports  from 
Spain  during  his  visit,  but  believes  that 
this  hiatus  resulted  from  a temporary  break- 
down in  trade  links.  In  the  past,  several 
species  have  been  severely  depleted  by 
overcollecting  in  Spain.  One,  N.  moschatus, 
is  now  extinct  in  the  wild  as  a result. 
Narcissus  populations  in  Spain  are  vulner- 
able because  they  are  isolated  in  separate 
valleys. 

Although  Turkey  is  a major  exporter  of 
several  bulb  genera,  it  is  not  a significant 
source  for  Narcissus.  The  last  major  ex- 
port was  in  1981,  when  The  Netherlands 
reported  importing  447,000  Narcissus  from 
Turkey. 

Austria,  Belgium  and  other  European 
countries  may  “farm”  Narcissus  plants  — 
transplant  them  from  the  wild,  allow  them 
to  grow  on,  and  then  divide  them  before 
selling. 

NRDC  believes  it  is  wrong  to  act  delib- 
erately in  ways  that  threaten  survival  of 
species.  The  threat  that  collecting  poses  to 
bulbs,  especially  to  the  wild  Narcissus , is 
particularly  heartbreaking  because  similar 
propagated  miniature  cultivars  are  avail- 
able to  gardeners.  (Editor’s  Note:  see  ar- 
ticle “Miniature  Daffodils  in  the  Garden,” 
by  Kathryn  Andersen,  page  34  in  this  is- 
sue.) 

While  it  is  theoretically  possible  to  insti- 
tute controlled  collecting  to  ensure  sur- 
vival of  species,  such  a plan  does  not  yet 
exist.  Consequently,  any  purchase  of  wild- 
collected  Narcissus  or  other  wild-collected 
bulbs  at  this  time  contributes  to  the  threat 
and  does  nothing  to  promote  wise  man- 

the  green  scene  / July  1989 


illustration  by  Michael  Herquet 


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33 


agement.  Therefore,  NRDC  urges  Ameri- 
can gardeners  to  avoid  buying  wild-col- 
lected bulbs. 

what  you  can  do 

Until  the  trade  provides  more  informa- 
tion, people  wishing  to  purchase  only 
propagated  bulbs  should  buy  only  hybrids. 
Ask  the  retailer,  “Did  you  propagate  these 
plants  from  seeds  or  by  tissue  culture  in 
your  own  facilities?  If  not,  do  you  know 
that  your  supplier  did  so?” 

Be  aggressive.  Do  not  accept  assurances 
that  the  plants  have  been  “nursery  grown” 


ll/rll 


imm 


or  obtained  from  “commercial  sources.” 
“Nursery  grown”  often  means  only  that 
the  plants  were  established  in  a nursery  for 
several  months  before  being  shipped;  they 
may  still  have  been  dug  from  the  wild 
originally.  “Commercial  sources”  include 
organized  networks  of  “diggers”  and  mid- 
dlemen such  as  the  ones  currently  han- 
dling shipments  of  Narcissus  from  Portu- 
gal to  the  Netherlands.  If  you  do  not  get  a 
satisfactory  answer,  buy  something  else. 

Meanwhile,  NRDC  and  others  working 
to  prevent  extinction  of  bulb  species  will 
try  to  interest  nurseries,  development  as- 


sistance organizations,  conservation-ori- 
ented grant-giving  foundations,  and  others 
in  working  with  local  people  in  the  native 
habitats  of  bulbs  to  develop  farms.  That 
approach  would  ensure  both  survival  and 
availability  of  the  glorious  little  bulbs,  and 
a source  of  income  for  those  people. 


Faith  Campbell  is  a senior  researcher  with 
Natural  Resources  Defense  Council,  working 
on  the  plant  trade  problem  with  them  for  1 1 
years. 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


MINIATURE  DAFFODILS 
IN  THE  GARDEN 


Is  the  concern  for 
wild  bulb  collection 
overstated? 

Kathryn  Andersen 
says  “yes”  and  of- 
fers suggestions  for 
selecting  miniature 
bulbs  without  en- 
dangering limited 
wild  sources . 

The  Natural  Resources  Defense 
Council  (NRDC)  and  other  con- 
servation groups  are  telling  us  not 
to  buy  species  daffodils  (varieties  of  daf- 
fodils that  occur  in  the  wild)  unless  we 
know  that  the  bulbs  have  been  nursery 
grown  from  seed  because  the  Dutch  and 
others  are  decimating  wild  populations  to 
the  brink  of  extinction.  (See  article  “Spe- 
cies Bulbs:  Question  Your  Sources”  on 
page  32  of  this  issue.)  Although  the  Dutch 
are  readily  available  scapegoats  and  may 
well  have  encouraged  over-collecting  in 
certain  instances,  I would  suggest  that  far 
more  significant  factors  in  the  disappear- 
ance of  species  from  the  Spanish  country- 
side are  encroaching  civilization  and  real, 
not  scape,  goats.  Dr.  Campbell  presents  no 
evidence  that  species  are  not  being  grown 
from  seed  in  the  Netherlands  and  alludes 
to  the  “farming  out”  of  collected  species 
before  they  are  sold  as  “Dutch  grown.”  A 
member  of  the  American  Daffodil  Society 
Miniature  Committee  visits  the  gardens  of 
specialty  growers  in  the  Netherlands  on  a 
regular  basis  and  has  observed  seedlings 
of  several  species.  Let  us  not  bash  the 
Dutch  and  say,  “No,”  to  species  daffodils 
for  the  wrong  reasons. 

The  average  nurseryman  has  no  idea 
where  the  "Dutch”  bulbs  he  sells  origi- 
nated and  can  only  assume  that  they  were 
grown  in  the  Netherlands.  A number  of 
species  daffodils  are  grown  from  seed  there. 
Others  will  not  grow  there  because  it  is  too 


By  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


cold  in  the  winter,  too  cool  in  the  summer 
(many  species  must  receive  a thorough 
baking  while  dormant)  or  soil  conditions 
differ  too  drastically  from  the  native  habi- 
tat. Most  species  that  cannot  be  raised  suc- 
cessfully from  seed  in  the  Netherlands 
probably  will  not  succeed  in  the  Delaware 
Valley  unless  the  gardener  undertakes  he- 
roic measures.  In  addition,  species  that 
grow  well  in  the  Netherlands  will  not  nec- 
essarily thrive  here.  Species  demand  very 
specific  growing  conditions,  which  may 
be  difficult  to  ascertain  and  duplicate. 
Unless  you,  as  an  experienced  gardener, 
feel  comfortable  raising  hybrid  miniature 
daffodils  (cultivated  hybrids  that  are  two 
or  more  generations  removed  from  the 
species),  do  not  even  attempt  to  grow  the 
species.  A novice  who  plants  species  daf- 
fodils is  almost  surely  doomed  to  fail.  Even 
hybrid  miniature  daffodils  are  not  so  easy 
to  grow  as  their  larger  counterparts,  and 
establishing  a fine  stand  is  indeed  a feat. 

Over-collecting  of  species  in  the  wild, 
especially  since  it  is  done  when  the  bulb  is 
in  flower,  can  certainly  hasten  the  demise 
of  indigenous  populations.  In  travelling  to 
the  low  Sierras  of  southern  and  central 
Spain  in  1988  with  a group  of  people  study- 
ing wild  populations  in  their  native  habi- 
tats, I found  no  evidence  of  digging  except 
for  one  public  picnic  area  where  shallow 
holes  suggested  that  the  white  Narcissus 
bulbocodium  (N.  cantabricus ) had  been 
removed.  In  a one-week  period  we  ob- 
served seven  distinct  species.  Many  were 
in  craggy  isolated  areas  inappropriate  for 
agriculture  or  the  encroachment  of  civili- 
zation. The  Spanish  goat,  a symbol  of 
wealth  to  farmers,  is  always  present  and 
appears  to  have  grazed  out  many  low-lying 
species  populations  mentioned  in  the  older 
literature.  Except  for  isolated  sightings 
within  a National  Park,  the  blooms  were 
seen  in  rocky  cliff  crevices,  burned-over 
scrub  or  public  dump  sites  among  trash. 
Since  olive  orchards,  massive  highway 
construction  and  expanding  cities  filled  the 
lowlands  and  deep  valleys,  daffodils  were 
only  sighted  at  higher  altitudes  removed 
from  man's  interferences.  I am  afraid  it  is 
not  the  greed  of  foreign  bulb  dealers  but 


man’s  efforts  to  propel  himself  into  the 
modem  world  and  stay  competitive  with 
his  neighbor  that  are  behind  the  thinning 
of  the  daffodil  populations  in  Spain. 

Daffodil  seeds  can  germinate  after  many 
years  of  dormancy.  From  sprouted  seed  to 


/ am  afraid  it  is  not  the  greed  of  for- 
eign bulb  dealers  but  man’s  efforts  to 
propel  himself  into  the  modern  world 
and  stay  competitive  with  his  neigh- 
bor that  are  behind  the  thinning  of 
the  daffodil  populations  in  Spain. 


flower  can  take  from  four  to  seven  years. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  eradicate  an  entire 
population  without  repeated  raids  on  dwin- 
dling stocks.  Dr.  Harold  Koopowitz,  au- 
thor of  Plant  Extinction:  A Global  Crisis 
writes  that  the  only  daffodil  species  con- 
sidered endangered  worldwide  is  N.  cal- 
cicola.  This  species  has  been  successfully 
established  in  New  Zealand  and  in  several 
private  gardens  in  England  and  the  United 
States.  It  is  important  to  preserve  all  spe- 
cies so  their  genes  may  be  available  for 
future  hybridizing  endeavors.  If  they  can- 
not be  preserved  in  their  native  habitats, 
they  should  be  preserved  wherever  pos- 
sible. The  American  Daffodil  Society 
(ADS)  deplores  any  activity  endangering 
the  wild  species  and  stresses  the  impor- 
tance of  maintaining  these  species  in  cul- 
tivation as  a hedge  against  extinction  in 
the  wild.  ADS  is  launching  a study  of  the 
cultural  requirements  of  individual  species 
to  aid  those  dedicated  growers  who  wish 
to  try  to  establish  these  species  in  their 
own  gardens.  Soil  pH,  summer  and  winter 
temperatures,  underlying  rock  and  mois- 
ture content  of  the  soil  at  various  times  of 
year  all  affect  the  growing  conditions  that 
various  species  demand. 

N.  asturiensis.  a tiny  trumpet  native  to 
the  Cantabrian  Mountains  in  northern  Spain 
is  being  propagated  from  seed  by  several 
specialty  growers  in  the  Netherlands.  Soils 
in  the  northern  Spanish  mountains  are 
clayish,  rocky  and  strongly  acidic.  Heavy 
snow  cover  gives  winter  protection.  Over 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


photo  by  Kathryn  S.  Andersen 


Well-established  clump  of  ‘Mite’  in  the  author’s  garden.  (For  scale  note  label  in  upper  left-hand 
comer.) 


the  years  a fine  stand  of  this  species  has 
become  established  in  Charles  Cresson’s 
Swarthmore,  Pennsylvania  garden.  The 
location  is  on  a gentle  slope  under  a pine 
needle  cover,  which  provides  cool  sum- 
mer soil  with  good  drainage  and  protec- 
tion from  the  most  severe  winter  weather. 
Before  I knew  that  this  species  demanded 
an  acid  soil,  I gradually  lost  several  clumps 
planted  near  my  brick  house  in  soil  with  a 
pH  above  7.0.  After  more  than  25  years, 
lime  continues  to  be  leached  from  the 
mortar  between  the  bricks,  and  the  soil 
must  frequently  be  reacidified  with  sulfur 
to  maintain  an  acid  pH.  I hope  that  several 
of  the  acid-loving  species  will  eventually 
establish  themselves  here. 

N.  canaliculatus  is  readily  propagated 
and  is  grown  extensively  in  the  Nether- 
lands. This  species  is  best  grown  as  an 
annual  here.  The  fat  Dutch  bulbs  produce 
a wealth  of  bloom  the  first  season  but 
seldom  set  bud  after  the  first  year  down. 
The  bulbs  tend  to  split  into  many  small 
pieces,  which  are  too  small  to  produce 
flowers.  I have  tried  to  encourage  repeated 


bloom  by  deep  planting  (12"  or  more), 
compacting  the  soil  by  driving  over  the 
beds  with  a loaded  pickup  truck,  planting 
on  a rock,  etc.,  but  to  no  avail.  Leaves  still 
emerge  more  than  25  years  after  planting. 

N.  bulbocodium  exists  in  many  subspe- 
cies and  is  found  in  abundance  throughout 
Spain.  Bulbocodium  grows  easily  from  seed 
and  thrives  in  the  Netherlands  where  it  is 
grown  extensively.  The  yellow  subspecies, 
offered  in  catalogs  as  Hoop  Petticoat 
Daffodils  require  acid  growing  conditions. 
Unfortunately  bulbocodium  does  not  per- 
sist in  our  Delaware  Valley  gardens  unless 
grown  with  protection. 

Dr.  Campbell  seems  particularly  con- 
cerned about  N.  triandrus.  N.  triandrus 
pallidulus  and  other  subspecies  are  ubiqui- 
tous in  central  and  southern  Spain.  They 
are  never  plentiful  but  seem  to  emerge  in 
a spotty  array  on  most  granite  ridges,  deep 
road  cuts  and  in  bumed-over  scrub  areas. 
A few  specialty  nurserymen  grow  them 
from  seed  in  the  Netherlands.  Some  bulbs 
offered  for  sale  are  undoubtedly  collected. 
These  are  surely  not  nearing  extinction  in 


Hybrid  Miniature  Daffodils  for  the  Delaware  Valley 

All  Have  Persisted  in  the  Garden  for  10  Years 

Trumpets 

Triandrus  Hybrids 

Jonquilla  Hybrids 

Little  Beauty 

April  Tears 

Baby  Moon 

Little  Gem 

Fairy  Chimes 

Bebop 

Small  Talk* 

Hawera 

Chit  Chat 

Sprite* 

Clare* 

Tosca 

Cyclamineus  Hybrids 

Pixie’s  Sister* 

Wee  Bee* 

Jumblie 

Stafford* 

Mite* 

Sun  Dial 

Large  and  Small  Cups 

Snipe* 

Sun  Disc* 

Mustard  Seed 

Tete-a-Tete* 

Paula  Cottell* 

Segovia* 

*These  cultivars  have  been  lifted  and  separated  at  least  once 

in  a ten-year  period  and  continue  to  thrive. 

Sources  for  Miniature  Hybrid  Daffodils 

Bonnie  Brae  Gardens 
Jeanie  Driver 
1 105  S.E.  Christensen  Rd. 

Corbett  OR  97019 

Daffodil  Mart 
Brent  and  Becky  Heath 
Route  3,  Box  794 
Gloucester  V A 23061 

Grant  Mitsch  Novelty  Daffodils 
Mr.  & Mrs.  Richard  D.  Havens 
P.O.  Box  218 
Hubbard  OR  97032 

Nancy  R.  Wilson 
571  Woodmont  Ave. 

Berkeley  CA  94708 


the  wild.  N.  triandrus  is  not  reliably  hardy 
here  and  can  readily  die  out  in  a very  cold 
winter  unless  drastic  measures  are  taken  to 
protect  the  bulbs.  The  bulbs  appear  to  be 
short-lived  and  are  not  a good  candidate 
for  our  Delaware  Valley  gardens. 

In  the  wild,  species  are  thought  to  multi- 
ply mainly  by  seed.  After  a few  years  of 
shedding  seed,  the  mother  bulb  dies.  Cul- 
tivated hybrids,  especially  the  standards 
(ordinary  large  garden  daffodils),  multiply 
largely  by  division  of  the  mother  bulb  into 
new  bulbs.  These  daffodils  seldom  set  seed 
in  the  garden  unless  hand  pollinated.  (In 
my  garden  in  Wilmington,  Delaware  fewer 
than  0.2%  of  the  stems  set  seed  even  with 
five  hives  of  bees  on  the  property.)  Mini- 
ature hybrids  are  much  closer  to  the  spe- 
cies than  the  standards  and  consequently 
are  more  inclined  to  set  seed  and  die  out. 
The  further  the  cultivar  is  removed  from 
the  species  through  extensive  hybridizing, 
the  more  it  gains  in  hybrid  vigor  and  the 
more  prone  it  is  to  persist  in  the  garden  and 
multiply  through  bulb  division.  The  table 
lists  hybrid  miniatures  that  have  persisted 
and  thrived  in  my  own  garden  (pH  6.8- 
7.1)  for  at  least  10  years.  The  miniatures 
are  best  left  undisturbed  unless  bloom 
quality  or  quantity  diminishes.  A large 
established  clump  brings  joy  to  the  heart 
of  the  grower  and  dazzles  the  eye  even  at 
great  distances. 

For  Kathryn  S.  Andersen’s  biography,  see  page 
21. 


35 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


T 


INDEX 

Index  to  Volume  17,  September  1988  through  July  1989  (listing  shows  issue  date  and  page  number). 


36 


TITLES 

(and  cross  index  by  key  word) 

A 

Air,  Houseplants  Work  to  Clean  Indoor  — 
Ascher  Mar , 15 

All-Male  Asparagus,  Chocolate  Peppers 
& All-Season  Strawberries  Prove  Them- 
selves in  the  Home  Garden  — Fell 
Mar.,  25 

Amaryllis,  They  Keep  Coming  Back  — 

Phillippi  Mar.,  30,  Letter  to  the 

Editor — Shaffer  May,  33 

Apple  Tasting  Party,  An  — Ball 
Sept.,  3 

Are  You  Dreaming  of  a White  Spring?  — 
Morehouse  Sept . 26 

Arrivals  & Departures  — Plimpton 
Jan.,  29 

Asparagus.  All-Male.  Prove  Themselves 

in  the  Home  Garden  — Fell 

Mar.,  25 

Autumn  Border  with  All  Year  Interest,  An 
— Ducsik  Sopt  16 


B 

Bambi  Go  Home  — Brunet  Jan  , 25; 

Letters  to  the  Editor  — Reynolds  

March  33,  Garra May  33 

Black  Prince'  Pepper,  Capsicum  Annuum 

Growing  Interests  — Kieser  

Sept.,  34 

Books  and  the  Green  World  — Morris 
July,  29 

Border  Goes  Wild,  A — Duckett  

May,  8 

Border  with  All  Year  Interest,  An  Autumn 
— Ducsik  ...  Sept , 16 

Brandywine  River  Museum.  Grand  Holi- 
day Tradition  at  Brandywine  River 
Museum,  Christmas  Critters  — Shep- 
pard   Nov  8 

Brighten  the  Winter  Landscape  with 

Deciduous  Hollies  — Bunting  

Nov  , 14 

Bubbles  Indoors  & Outdoors,  Small  Seed- 


lings Thrive  in  — Mackey  Jan.,  23 

Bulb  Sources  — Ganoe July,  26 

Bulbs:  Books  and  the  Green  World  — 

Morris July,  29 

Bulbs,  Cultivating  Unusue:  — Raden  ... 
July,  22 


Bulbs.  Flowering  Fall  & Winter  — Mills 
July,  13 

Bulbs,  Flowering  Spring  & Summer  — 

Chandoha  July,  5 

Bulbs.  Forcing,  for  the  Philadelphia  Flower 

Show  — Fisher,  Jr July,  15 

Bulbs  in  the  Landscape  — Reed 
July, 

Bulbs,  Species  - Question  Your  Sources 

— Campbell July,  32 

Butterflies,  Gardening  for  — Sullivan  . 
May,  22 


C 

Capsicum  Annuum  Black  Prince'  Pep- 
per: Growing  Interests  — Kieser 
Sept . 34 

Cendrowski:  The  Winning  Ways  of  the 
Young  — Goldstein  . Mar  , 1 1 

Chinese  Evergreens:  War  Horses  of  the 
Plant  World  — Loewer  May.  25 

Christmas  Cactus,  True,  Makes  a Come- 
back at  Longwood  Gardens  — Lauver 

Nov  , 6 

Christmas  Critters  — Sheppard 
Nov  , 8 


City  Garden  An  Urban  Gardening  Guer- 
illa Composts — Wiegand  Sept  19 
City  Gardens  Contest  Philadelphia  Shows 
Off  Its  Bloomers  — Kempner 
May.  12 

Composts,  An  Urban  Gardening  Guerilla 

— Wiegand  Sept  , 19 

Conditioning  Pays  Off  at  the  Harvest  Show, 
TLC  Tender,  Loving  — Monroe 
Sept , 6 

Colonial  Garden.  Recreating  a — Fair- 
man  Sept , 30 

Cottage  Gardening  An  Old  Idea  Whose 
Time  has  Come  - Again  — Boettger 
May,  18 

Crozer-Chester  Medical  Center  Gardens 
- A City  Sanctuary  — Berd  May,  28 
Cultivating  Unusual  Bulbs  — Raden 
July,  22 


D 

Daffodils,  Hybridizing,  American  Style  — 
Andersen  July,  19 

Daffodils,  Miniature,  — Andersen 
July.  34 

Deer  Problems  Bambi  Go  Home  — Bru- 
net . Jan  , 25,  Letter  to  the 

Editor  — Reynolds  Mar  , 33, 

Letter  to  the  Editor  Funding  Bambi's 
Trip  Home  — Garra  May  33 

E 

Edible  Landscape  From  Forage  to  Feast. 
The  Delights  of  the  Edible  Landscape 

— Knes-Maxwell Sept..  22 

Editorials:  Trees  Around  Which  to  Dance 
— Byrne  . Nov  , 3,  Maintaining  the 
Victory  Over  Decay  & Neglect  — Byrne 

Jan.,  3,  From  the  Flower  Show  to 

the  Junior  Flower  Show  — Byrne 
Mar , 3;  Passion,  Droughts  & Garden 
Tours  — Byrne  May,  3;  Bulbs  In- 
doors & Out.  (Including  Lilium  'Jane 

Pepper') July,  3 

Evergreens.  Chinese  War  Horses  of  the 
Plant  World  — Loewer  May,  25 

F 

Fairmount  Park  A Good  Beginning  or  the 
Beginning  of  the  End  — Cunningham 
Sept . 8 

Flower  Tower  — LaRosa  Sept  , 33 
Flowering  Bulbs:  Fall  & Winter  — Mills 
July,  13 

Flowering  Bulbs  Spring  & Summer  — 
Chandoha  July,  5 

Flowers,  White  Are  You  Dreaming  of  a 
White  Spring?  — Morehouse 
Sept  , 28 

Forage  to  Feast  The  Delights  of  the  Ed- 
ible Landscape.  From  — Knes-Maxwell 
Sept  , 22 

Forcing  Bulbs  for  the  Philadelphia  Flower 
Show  — Fisher,  Jr  July,  15 

G 

Garden,  Jake  Loses  His  — Roberts 
Jan  , 16 

Garden  of  Brotherly  Love  Yields  Remark- 
able Results,  A — Fairman  Jan  , 19 
Gardening  for  Butterflies  — Sullivan 
May.  22 

Gardens  Cottage  Gardening  Again  — 
Boettger  May,  18 

Gardens,  Crozer-Chester  Medical  Center 
- A City  Sanctuary  — Berd  May,  28 

Gladiolus  tristis  — Day  Mar.,  4 

Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Brandywine 
River  Museum  Christmas  Critters  — 


Sheppard Nov  . 8 

Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Longwood 
Gardens  Poinsettia  Tree  Standards  — 
Randall  Nov..  4 

Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Longwood 
Gardens  T rue  Christmas  Cactus  Makes 
a Comeback  at  Longwood  Gardens  — 

Lauver  Nov  . 6 

Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Winterthur 
Museum  and  Gardens  Reliving 
America's  Past  Nov  , 10 

Growing  Interests  Capsicum  Annuum 
'Black  Prince'  Pepper  — Kieser 
Sept  34,  Primula  allionn  — Gevjan 
Nov  , 31 ; Ruellia  makoyana  — Darling- 
ton Nov  . 32;  Shorha  galacl folia — 

Oconee  Bells  — Gyer  Jan  , 31 

H 

Harvest  Show  TLC  - Tender,  Loving 
Conditioning  Pays  Off  at  the  Harvest 

Show  — Monroe Sept.,  6 

Harvesting  Vegetables  There's  Many  a 
Step  Between  Garden  & Pot  — Gold- 
stein Sept , 12 

Holly  Brighten  the  Winter  Landscape  with 
Deciduous  — Bunting  Nov,  14 

Holly  Kathleen  K Meserve  The  Woman 
Who  Shook  the  Holly  World  — Peeples 

Nov  , 1 1 

Hotline,  Mills  Pruning  Deciduous  Shrubs, 
Holiday  Plants  Jan.  32,  Indoor 

Plants  Mar  , 32.  Propaga- 

tion May,  32 

Houseplants  Work  to  Clean  Indoor  Air  — 
Ascher  Mar  , 15 

Hybridizing  Daffodils  American  Style  — 
Andersen  July,  19 

l-K 

ISI  Caring  Center:  The  Winning  Ways  of 
the  Young  — Goldstein  Mar  , 1 1 
Jake  Loses  His  Garden  — Roberts 
Jan  , 16 

Jimmy  Paolini;  A Prince  Among  Green  & 
Growing  Subjects  — Radeloff 
Jan.,  4 

Junior  Flower  Show,  The  — Kempner 
Mar  , 20 

Junior  Garden  of  Gethsemane  The  Win- 
ning Ways  of  the  Young  — Goldstein 
Mar  . 1 1 

Kathleen  K Meserve  The  Woman  Who 
Shook  the  Holly  World  — Peeples 
Nov  , 1 1 

L-N 

Leary.  Sue  The  Long-Distance  Country 
Gardener  — Wolfe  May,  4 

Letter  to  the  Editor  More  Favorite  Native 
Trees  — Stein  Jan  . 33,  Bambi  Go 
Home  — ReynoldsMar  . 33, 

Down's  Syndrome  — Jarrett 
Mar  , 33,  Amaryllis  — Shaffer 
May,  33;  Funding  Bambi's  Trip  Home 
— Garra  May  33;  Verbascum  — 
Christopher  May,  33, 

Lilium' Jane  Pepper,'  Bulbs  lndoors&  Out 
— Byrne  July.  3 

Long-Distance  Country  Gardener,  The  — 

Wolfe May,  4 

Longwood  Gardens  Grand  Holiday  Tra- 
dition at  Longwood  Gardens,  Poinset- 
tia Tree  Standards  — Randall 
Nov  , 4,  Grand  Holiday  Tradition  at  Long- 
wood Gardens  True  Christmas  Cactus 
Makes  a Comeback  at  Longwood 
Gardens  — Lauver  Nov  . 6 


Melmark  Varsity  Gardeners  — Cunning- 
ham   Nov.,  18 

Meserve,  Kathleen  K The  Woman  Who 
Shook  the  Holly  World  — Peeples 
Nov  . 1 1 

Miniature  Daffodils  in  the  Garden  — 
Andersen  July,  34 

O-P 

Oasis  — Ja  ics Nov.,  28 

Paolini,  Jimmy  A Prince  Among  Green  & 

Growing  Subjects  — Radeloff 
Jan  , 4 

Peppers,  Chocolate  Prove  Themselves 
in  the  Home  Garden  — Fell  Mar,  25 
Philadelphia  Shows  Off  Its  Bloomers  — 


Kempner  May,  12 

Photo  Contest  Winners  Mar  , 18 


Plant  Societies,  1989  Invitation  to 
Nov  . 33 

Plant  Society  Meetings.  1989 
Mar  , 28 

Pocketful  of  Seeds  for  Unusual  Trees,  A 


— Brinton  Nov  , 26 

Poinsettia  Tree  Standards  — Randall 
Nov  , 4 

Primula  allionn  Growing  Interests  — 
Gevjan  Nov  , 31 

Propagation  Hotline  — Mills  . May.  32 
Pruning  Deciduous  Shrubs  Hotline  — 

Mills  Jan  . 32 


Q-R 

Recreating  a Colonial  Garden  — Fairman 

Sept  30 

Rockingham  Recreating  a Colonial  Gar- 
den -Fairman  Sept  , 30 

Ruellia  makoyana  Growing  Interests  — 
Darlington  Nov.,  32 

S 

Seeding  Trees.  A Tale  of  — Bruno 
Nov  , 22 

Seedlings,  Small,  Thrive  in  Bubbles  In- 
doors & Outdoors  — Mackey 
Jan  , 23 

Seeds  A Pocketful  of  Seeds  for  Unusual 
Trees  — Brinton  Nov  , 26 

Self-Seeding  Plants  A Border  Goes  Wild 
— Duckett  . May,  8 

Shortia  galacifolia  - Oconee  Bells.  Grow- 
ing Interests  — Gyer  Jan  , 31 

Six  Superior  Plants  1989  Winners  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society's 
Styer  Award  of  Garden  Merit  — Pepper 
& Zuk  Jan  , 8 

Small  Seedlings  Thrive  in  Bubbles  In- 
doors & Outdoors  — Mackey 
Jan  , 23 

Species  Bulbs  — Question  Your  Sources 
— Campbell  July.  32 

Strawberries.  All-Season  Prove  Them- 
selves in  the  Home  Garden  — Fell 
Mar  . 25 

Styer  Award  of  Garden  Merit,  1989  Penn- 
sylvania Horticultural  Society's  Six 
Superior  Plants  — Pepper  & Zuk 
Jan  , 8 

Tale  of  Seeding  Trees,  A — Bruno 
Nov  22 

TLC  Tender.  Loving  Conditioning  Pays 
Off  at  the  Harvest  Show  — Monroe 
Sept , 6 

Tower.  Flower  — LaRosa  Sept  . 33 
Trainer  The  Winning  Ways  of  the  Young 
— Goldstein  Mar  , 1 1 

Trees  A Tale  of  Seeding  Trees  — Bruno 


the  green  scene  / July  1989 


Nov  . 22 

Trees  A Pocketful  of  Seeds  for  Unusual 
Trees  — Brinton  Nov..  26 

T rees  Fairmount  Park.  A Good  Beginning 
or  the  Beginning  of  the  End  — Cun- 
ningham Sept , 8 

U-V 

Urban  Gardening  Guerilla  Composts.  An 
— Wiegand  Sept , 19 

Varsity  Gardeners  — Cunningham 
Nov  , 18 

Vegetables,  Harvesting  There's  Many  a 


Step  Between  Garden  & Pot  — Gold- 
stein   Sept  12 

Verbascum,  Mid-summer  Stars  — Swan 

Mar , 7,  Letter  to  the  Editor  — 

Christopher  May,  33 

W-Z 

Walkways:  Arrivals  & Departures — Plimp- 
ton   Jan.,  29 


Water  Reminders  — Cunningham 
May,  16 

White  Flowers  Are  You  Dreaming  of  a 
White  Spring?  — Morehouse 
Sept , 26 

Winning  Ways  of  the  Young,  The  — Gold- 
stein . Mar , 1 1 

Winterthur  Reliving  America's  Past,  Win- 
terthur Museum  and  Gardens 
Nov  , 10 

AUTHORS 

A-B 

Andersen,  Kathryn  — Hybridizing  Daffo- 
dils American  Style  July,  19: 

Miniature  Daffodils  in  the  Garden 
July,  34 

Ascher,  Amalie  Adler  — House  Plants 
Work  to  Clean  Indoor  Air  Mar  , 15 

Ball,  Liz  — An  Apple  Tasting  Party  . 
Sept.,  3 

Berd,  Morris  — Crozer-Chester  Medical 
Center  Gardens  - A City  Sanctuary 
May,  28 

Boettger,  Nancy  L.  — Cottage  Garden- 
ing An  Old  Idea  Whose  Time  Has  Come 
-Again  May.  18 

Brinton,  Toni  — A Pocketful  of  Seeds  for 
Unusual  Trees Nov.,  26 

Brunet,  Helen  Tower  — Bambi  Go  Home 
Jan  , 25 


Bruno.  Barbara  — A Tale  of  Seeding 
Trees  Nov  , 22 

Bunting,  Andrew  — Brighten  the  Winter 
Landscape  with  Deciduous  Hollies 

Nov  ,14 

Byrne.  Jean  — Trees  Around  Which  to 
Dance  Editorial  Nov  , 3, 

Maintaining  the  Victory  over  Decay  & 

Neglect.  Editorial Jan  , 3, 

From  the  Flower  Show  to  the  Junior 
Flower  Show  Editorial  Mar  , 3, 

Passion,  Droughts  & Garden  Tours 

Editorial  May,  3,  Bulbs: 

Indoors  & Out  (Including  Lilium  'Jane 
Pepper') July,  3 

C 

Campbell,  Faith  — Species  Bulbs  - 
Question  Your  Sources  July. 32 

Chandoha,  Walter  — Flowering  Bulbs 
Spring  & Summer  July,  5 

Christopher,  Pat  C.  — Letter  to  the  Editor 
Verbascum  May,  33 

Cunningham,  Anne  S — Fairmount  Park 
A Good  Beginning  or  the  Beginning  of 
the  End  Sept  , 8,  Varsity 

Gardeners Nov  , 18,  Water  Re- 

minders May,  16 

D-E 

Darlington,  Martha  B — Growing  Inter- 
ests Ruellia  makoyana  Nov  , 32 

Day,  Bonnie  S — Gladiolus  Irishs 
Mar  , 4 

Duckett.  Kath  — A Border  Goes  Wild 
May,  8 

Ducsik,  Andrew — An  Autumn  Border  with 

All  Year  Interest  Sept  , 16 

F 

Fairman,  Adra  — Recreating  a Colonial 
Garden  Sept  , 30,  A Garden  of 

Brotherly  Love  Yields  Remarkable 
Results  Jan  , 19 

Fell,  Derek — All-Male  Asparagus,  Choco- 
late Peppers  Prove  Themselves  in  the 
Home  Garden  Mar  . 25 

Fisher,  Jr.,  Walter  — Forcing  Bulbs  for  the 
Philadelphia  Flower  Show  July,  15 

G-l 

Ganoe,  Susie  — Bulb  Sources  July.  26 
Garra,  Martha  Ludes  — Letter  to  the  Edi- 
tor Funding  Bambfs  Trip  Home 
May,  33 


Gevjan,  Roxie  — Growing  Interests  Prim- 
ula all ionn  Nov  , 31 

Goldstein,  Libby  — Harvesting  Vege- 
tables There's  Many  a Step  Between 
Garden  and  Pot  Sept  , 12  The 

Winning  Ways  of  the  Young 
Mar  , 11 

Gyer,  John  and  Janet  — Growing  Inter- 
ests Shortiagalacifolia—  Oconee  Bells 
Jan  35 

J-K 

Jalics.  Kristi  — Oasis  Nov  . 28 

Jarrett,  Arlene  — Letter  to  the  Editor 
Down's  Syndrome  Mar  , 33 

Kempner,  Natalie  — The  Junior  Flower 
Show  Mar , 20;  Philadelphia 

Shows  Off  Its  Bloomers  May.  12 

Kieser,  Frank  — Growing  Interests 
Capsicum  Annuum  'Black  Prince' 

Sept , 34 

Knes-Maxwell,  Catherine  J — From  For- 
age to  Feast  The  Delights  of  the  Edible 
Landscape  Sept . 22 

L 

LaRosa,  Jim  — Flower  Tower  Sept . 33 

Lauver,  Dale  — In  the  Grand  Holiday 
Tradition  at  Longwood  Gardens:  The 
T rue  Christmas  Cactus  Makes  a Come- 
back at  Longwood  Gardens  Nov  , 6 
Loewer,  Peter  — Chinese  Evergreens 
War  Horses  of  the  Plant  World 
May,  25 

M-N 

Mackey,  Betty  Barr  — Small  Seedlings 
Thrive  in  Bubbles  Indoors  & Outdoors 

Jan  , 23 

Mills,  Kathy  — Hotline:  Pruning  Decidu- 
ous Shrubs,  Holiday  Plants  Jan  , 32, 
Hotline  Indoor  Plants  . Mar  , 32. 
Hotline  Propagation  May.  32 

Mills,  Mary  — Flowering  Bulbs  Fall  & 

Winter  July,  13 

Monroe,  Cheryl  — TLC  Tender.  Loving 
Conditioning  Pays  Off  at  the  Harvest 

Show  Sept  , 6 

Morehouse,  Timothy  — Are  You  Dream- 
ing of  a White  Spring?  Sept  26 
Morris,  Julie  — Books  and  the  Green 
World  July,  29 

O-R 

Peeples,  Edwin  A — Kathleen  K 


Meserve  The  Woman  Who  Shook  the 
Holly  World  Nov  , 1 1 

Pepper,  Jane  G & Judith  Zuk  — Six 
Superior  Plants  1989  Styer  Award 
Winners  Jan  . 8 

Phillippi,  Todd  R — Amaryllis.  They  Keep 
Coming  Back  Mar  .30 

Plimpton,  Susan  W — Arrivals  & Depar- 
tures   Jan  . 29 

Radeloff,  Ken  — Jimmy  Paolini;  A Prince 
Among  Green  & Growing  Subjects 
Jan  , 4 

Raden,  Lee  M — Cultivating  Unusual 

Bulbs July.  22 

Randall,  Colvin  — In  the  Grand  Holiday 
Tradition  at  Longwood  Gardens  Pom- 
settia  Tree  Standards  Nov  4 

Reed,  Joanna  — Bulbs  in  the  Landscape 

July,  4 

Reynolds,  Nancy  — Letter  to  the  Editor 
Bambi  Go  Home  Mar  33 

Roberts,  Florence  Ann  — Jake  Loses  His 
Garden  Jan..  16 

S-Z 

Shaffer,  John  G — Letter  to  the  Editor 

Amaryllis May,  33 

Sheppard,  John  — In  the  Grand  Holiday 
T radition  at  Brandywine  River  Museum 
Christmas  Critters  Nov  . 8 

Stein,  Phyllis  H,  — Letter  to  the  Editor 
More  on  Native  Trees  Jan  , 33 

Sullivan,  Elizabeth  F — Gardening  for 
Butterflies  May.  22 

Swan,  John  P — Verbascum.  Mid-Sum- 
mer Stars  Mar , 7, 

Wiegand,  James  — An  Urban  Gardening 
Guerilla  Composts  Sept  19 

Winterthur  — In  the  Grand  Holiday  Tradi- 
tion at  Winterthur  Museum  and  Gar- 
dens Reliving  America's  Past 
Nov  , 10 

Wolfe,  Mary  Lou  — The  Long-Distance 
Country  Gardener  May,  4 

Zuk,  Judith  & Jane  G Pepper  — Six 
Superior  Plants  1989  Styer  Award 
Winners Jan  , 8 


A 1 5-Year  Green  Scene  Index  is 

available  Send  $8.50  to  Green  Scene 
Index.  PHS,  325  Walnut  St  , Philadel- 
phia. PA  19106 


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SEND  SUBSCRIPTION  TO:  FROM: 


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the  green  scene  / july  1989 


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To  Have: 

“A  Land  Flowing  With 
Milk  and  Honey"  (Exodus  3:8) 

We  Must  Have  Honey  Bees. 

Put  a Colony  In  Your  Garden. 

208  Wiley  Street  334  Roxborough  Ave. 

Whitesboro,  NJ  08252  Phila.,  PA  19128 
(609)465-6077  (215)483-9165 


STEP  INTO  MY  GARDEN 

Located  in  Cedarcroft,  a community  of  tree  lined 
lanes  two  miles  south  of  Longwood  Gardens,  is 
this  classic  colonial  with  greenhouse  and  1 + 
acres  of  specimen  plantings.  Garden  designed 
for  privacy  and  enjoyment  in  all  seasons.  For 
more  information  call: 

Connie  Alegranti 
Patterson  Schwartz  Realtors 
(215)  399-1500 


JOSEPH  MANERO  & SONS,  INC. 
MASONRY 
(215)  885-3711 

•Brick  or  Stone  Garden  Walks  and  Walls 
•Flagstone  and  Slate  Terraces 
•Over  42  Years  Experience 
•Design  Service  Available 


OUTDOOR  FURNITURE  SPECIALISTS 
THE  HILL  CO. 

An  outstanding  selection  of  outdoor  furniture  and 
accessories.  Featuring  select  pieces  from  Molla 
and  introducing  the  Winterthur  Collection 

8615  Germantown  Ave. 

Chestnut  Hill  247-7600 


CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
HARDY  AZALEAS  AND  RHODODENDRONS 

Northern  Grown  and  Acclimated 
Proven  Hardy  Without  Winter  Protection 
Big  sizes!  Big  selection!  Personal  service! 
Two-Year  Catalog  Subscription: 

$2.00  (deductible) 

CARLSON’S  GARDENS 
Box  305-GS  789,  South  Salem,  NY  10590 
(914)  763-5958 


NEAL  SHAFFER 

Wonderful  Wedding  Flowers,  By  Appointment 
PARTYFLOWERS  LTD.  925-3618 

Workshop:  2737  Cambridge  St.,  Phila.,  19130 


Advertising  copy  should  be  submitted  8 weeks  before  issue  date:  November,  January,  March,  May.  July,  September.  Minimum  rate  $19.  Charges  based  on  $5.00  per 
line.  Less  1 0%  discount  for  two  or  more  consecutive  issues,  using  same  copy.  All  copy  should  be  accompanied  by  check  made  out  to  PENNSYLVANIA  HORTICULTURAL 
SOCIETY  and  sent  to  Joseph  Robinson,  GREEN  SCENE,  325  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  PA  19106. 


the  green  scene  / july  1989 


CMonodotyt and  Scilla  on 
March  Bank  at  YVirkerthur-w 
Museum  and  Gardens. 

See  page  29*  * , *. 


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