The Lucknow album : containing a series of fifty photographic views of Lucknow and its environs together with a large sized plan of the city

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THE

LUCKNOW ALBUM.

CONTAINING A SERIES OF

FIFTY PHOTOGRAPHIC VIEWS OF LUCKNOW

AND ITS ENVIRONS

TOGETHEK WITH A LAEGE SIZED

PLAN OF THE CITY

EXECUTED BY

Darogha Ubbas Alli

Assistant Municipal Engineer.

o:**;o

TO THE ABOVE IS ADDED

A FULL DESCRIPTION OF EACH SCENE DEPICTED.

THE WHOLE FOEMING A COMPLETE
ttJCTTSXRATED &XHCDE

TO THE CITY OF LTJCKNOW

THE CAPITAL OF OUDH.

=-§«=

CALCUTTA :

Printed by p. ji, J<ouse, ]3aptist yVlissiON T^ress.
1874.

\thmkh frg fmroioti

TO

SiFy_ George Coupei\, JBart., C. j3

CHIEF COMMISSIONER OF OUDH.

s

CONTENTS.

Ho*- Page

1-2. — Aulum Bagh, and General Havelock's tomb, 6-7

3. — Bebeapore ki Kothe, , . . . . 9

4.— The Welaite Bagh, ,., 10

5. — Dilkoosba, ih.

6. — La Martiniere, \\

7. — Hyat Buksb, 13

8. — Darul Shaffa , , $.

9. — Tbe Offices of the Oudh and Eohilcund Railway Company, 15

1 0. — St. Joseph's Church, ib.

11 . — Christ's Church, $.

12.— Wingfield Park, , . 16

13.— Sekunder Bagh, 17

14. — Kuddum Russool, 18

15. — Najuf Ashruf or Shah Najaf, $,

16.— Mote Mahal, 19

3 7. — Khoorshaid Munzil, 20

18. — Tara Kothe or Star House, 21

19. — Memorial of the Massacre of European Captives, ......... 22

20. — ivunkur Wali Kothi, 23

21. — Noor Bukhsh ki Kothi or Light-giving House, H,

22, 23, 24. — Kaiser Bagh or Caesar's Garden, 25

25, 26.— Saadut Ali Khan's Tomb, and Moorshed Zadi's Tomb, 27

27. — Kaiser Pussund, 29

28— Neil's Gate, #.

29. — Bruce's Bridge, 31

30, 31.— Chutter Munzil, , ,-j.

32. — Lai Baradurree, ....*, t 32

33, 34.— Bailie Guard, , 33

35. — Bulrampore Hospital, 46

( vi )

Nos. Page

36.— Iron Bridge, 47

37. — Stone Bridge, , ib.

38. — Luchman Tela or Muchee Bhawun, 48

39, 40, 41. — Great Imambara of Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah, . ... 50

42. — Roomee Durwaza, , 51

43, 44, 45, 46. — Hoosainabad Imambara, 52

47. — Dilaram Kotbee, > , 56

48. — Durgab Huzrut Abbas, 57

49. — Kazmain, ib.

50. — Kurbulla tal Katora, 58

Ruins, ancient and modern, bearing marks of oriental
splendour and extravagance ; the relics of Monarchies now-
passed away : prostrate columns, broken arches, colonnades,
fountains, statues, shattered and shot-battered walls, scathed
monuments, telling of the horrors of war, rebellion and siege ;
neglected gardens and roofless, dismantled palaces, fast fall-
ing into decay, are all objects of interest and curiosity to the
tourist, the antiquary, the historian, the archaeologist and the
lover of art. The city of Lucknow, the capital of Oudh,
abounds with objects of this description in all the intense
sublimity of ruin, and evincing the stern decrees of fate that
have thus destined them to destruction, and that, but for the
present volume, would have ruthlessly consigned them to
everlasting oblivion. The thrilling historical or traditionary
narratives that from time to time have been published, and
the glowing descriptions that have been given by travellers,
have, since railway communication became available, had the
effect of considerably increasing the number of visitors ; the
want of an " Illustrated Album," that should also act as a
guide, being consequently felt, the present volume has been
prepared, at great expense, and profusely illustrated, to
supply that want, and the projectors hope that it will

( 2 )

succeed in fostering the spirit of enquiry, to which the his-
tories of the objects afore mentioned have so manifestly given
birth, and to which the educated Natives of India and the
travelling public of all nations throughout the civilized world
are so much attached.

It has already been remarked that, to the general travel-
ler or tourist, the work will prove of great interest ; it may
be added that, to some, it will be of inestimable value ; but
to the friends and relations of the survivors, and to the sur-
vivors themselves, of the terrible rebellion of 1857-58, espe-
cially to those who were actual members of the beleaguered
Garrison at the Lucknow Residency ; whose gallant and
glorious defence against overwhelming forces of a cruel,
fanatical and barbarous foe, preserved the prestige of the
British arms at such fearful sacrifices, this work will not prove
an intellectual treat alone ; the scenes herein depicted will
revive old memories falling sadly but proudly on the heart ;
memories of the mighty dead, of brave sons and fathers, of dear
sisters, loving wives and sweet children, who now sleep
peacefully in the midst of the ruined grandeur where they fell.
To the siirvivors of that Garrison, this Album will bear a
sacred interest, and many a tear will fall at the contemplation
of some well-remembered spot, over which a sort of holy
radiance will appear to linger as the book is sorrowfully closed.
The volume may be preserved, for transmission to posterity,
as a memorial of the dangers passed and the hardships
suffered by the glorious Garrison of Lucknow.

The Album being intended to serve as a pictorial guide,
cannot be expected to contain profuse historical accounts of

( 3 )

the scenes represented dating back from ages of remote
antiquity : trusting rather to the silent eloquence of modern
illustration aided by photography, which, with talismanic
power, appeals to the senses of old and young of all nations
and tongues, or in the words of the poet : —

" Sounds, which address the ear, are lost, and die
In one short hour ; but those which strike the eye
Live long upon the mind ; the faithful sight
Engraves the knowledge with a beam of light."

The projectors respectfully beg that, in consideration of
the work having been produced, regardless of pains or expense,
and under great difficulties, as regards shortcomings, the
public will be lenient and the critics merciful ; and trusting
that it may meet with approval, the " Lucknow Album" is
sent forth to meet its fate.

tm:

Lucknow Album.

?w

The city of Lucknow was, for a long time, renowned
for its riches and flourishing trade. The city proper is said
to occupy the site of the debris of some threescore villages,
the names of many of which are perpetuated in the several
Mohullas which are called after them, but of themselves not
the slightest trace remains. It is built on irregular, undulat-
ing ground, intersected by watercourses, nullahs and ravines.
Its antiquity is questionable, but only about ninety years
have elapsed since, from its ancient rival, Fyzabad, it usurped
the title and dignity of" Capital of Oudh," and it is not a
little remarkable that, in so comparatively short a period, it
should have assumed such proportions as to extend, with its
suburbs, over an area of twenty square miles.

There is a tradition that Fyzabad or Ajoodia, and
Lucknow, the distance between the two being some seventy
odd miles, were once united by a series of small towns, form-
ming one continuous and gigantic city ; another tradition
asserts that the two cities were formerly connected by a
secret subterranean passage, known only to the Kings of
Oudh. These traditions are only worth mentioning, as show-
ing the singular credulity for which the natives of Oudh are
remarkable. The stories are of course thoroughly fabulous.

( o )

Prior to the annexation of the kingdom of Ouclh, Luck-
now consisted mostly of strong masonry built houses in the
usual fantastic mixture of Italian and Mahomedan architecture,
two or three stories high, forming narrow, but picturesque,
streets : the bazars were abundantly stocked, the population
was literally " teeming," so that it was impossible to ride, or
drive, in the streets, save at a walk ; the people generally
were cleanly dressed, betokening that they were living under
a regime, which placed the common necessaries of life reason-
ably within the reach of all classes ; but the melancholy and
memorable events of 1857-58 have reduced the number of
handsome houses by one half, whilst the trade and manufac-
tures, for which, in all their riches and variety, Lucknow
was once so famous, have all but disappeared. Nevertheless,
to compensate for this apparent deterioration, there are now
many fine broad streets, many excellent market-places,
improved ventilation, good drainage ; and seemingly a more
equable and healthy air of prosperity may well be hoped for,
especially when the traffic becomes developed by the com-
pletion of the Oudh and Eohilkund network of railways,
The traveller may then bid farewell to the crumbling mosque,
the deserted garden, the ruined fountain, the remains of
palaces, seraglios and all the marks of the reigns of the kings
of Oudh. Lucknow will gradually assume its former pros-
perity as the veritable capital.

Approaching the city by rail from Cawnpore, commencing
from a southerly direction, the first vieiv is that of —

NOS. 1 AND 2.

This was originally a fortified garden, containing a
large summer-house and out-offices, built and arranged, as an

( 7 )

occasional residence, for Newab Khas Mehal, wife of the ex-
king, Wajid Ali Shah, Sultana Aulum.

During the late rebellion, the garden was occupied by
a strong force of rebel troops, who held the place up to the
23rd September, 1857, when, after a desperate defence, it
was captured by General Havelock, and converted into a
depot for the sick and wounded, numbering some 400, of the
British force. The General then, accompanied by the chival-
rous Outram, undertook his gallant advance to reinforce, or
finally rescue, the long beleaguered garrison of the Bailie
Guard.

The Aulum Bagh derives a melancholy interest from the
circumstance of the remains of the late lamented General
Havelock having been buried there. The monument, " view
No. 2," erected to his memory, stands, overshadowed by
trees, in a quiet corner, and is extremely modest in size and
pretensions.

The honor and gallantry of the General were so far re-
warded, that he lived to see the object for which he had
fought so bravely, successfully accomplished : it was not
until the sick and wounded, and the women and children,
had been safely escorted from the besieged Bailie Guard, to
the camp of the Commander-in-Chief at Mahomed Bagh,
that the noble spirit of the Christian soldier succumbed to
disease, brought on by incessant exposure and anxiety. The
monument bears the following inscription : — ■

" HERE REST THE MORTAL REMAINS OP

HENEY HAVELOCK,

" Major-General in the British Army and Knight Com-
mander of the Bath ; who died, at Dilkoosha, Lucknow, of
dysentery, produced by the hardships of a campaign, in which
he achieved immortal fame, on the 24th November, 1857.
He was born on the 5th April, 1795, at Salops, Monmouth,
county Durham, England."

( 8 )

" Entered the Army in 1815, came to India in 1823, and
served there, with little interruption, until his death. He
bore an honorable post in the wars of Burma, Affglianistan,
the Maharatta Campaign of 1843, and the Sutlej of 1845-46.
Retained, by adverse circumstances, during many years, in
a subordinate position, it was the aim of his life to prove,
that the profession of a Christian is consistent with the ful-
lest discharge of the duties of a soldier."

He commanded a division in the Persian expedition of
1857. In the terrible convulsion of that year, his genius and
character were, at length, fully developed and known to
the world. Saved from shipwreck on the Ceylon Coast, by
that Providence which designed him for yet greater things,
he was nominated to the command of the column destined to
relieve the brave garrison of Lucknow. This object of al-
most superhuman exertions he, by the blessing of God,
accomplished, but he was not spared to receive on earth the
reward so dearly earned ; and the Divine Master whom he
served, saw fit to remove him from the sphere of his labours,
in the moment of his greatest triumph.

He departed to his rest in humble, but confident expecta-
tion of far greater rewards and honors than those which a
grateful country was anxious to bestow on him. The skill
of a commander, the courage and devotion of a soldier, the
learning of a scholar, the grace of a high-bred gentleman, and
all the social and domestic virtues of a husband, father, and
friend, were blended together, strengthened, harmonized and
adorned by the spirit of a true Christian — the result of the
influence of the Holy Spirit on his heart and of a humble
reliance on the merits of a crucified Saviour.

" I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course,
" I have kept the faith : henceforth there is laid up for me
" a crown of righteousness, which the Lord, the Righteous
" Judge, shall give me on that day ; and not to me only,
" but to all those that love His appearing."

( 9 )

" His ashes in a peaceful urn shall rest ;
His name a great example stands, to show

How strangely high endeavours may be blessed,
When piety and valour jointly go."

This monument is erected by his sons, widow and
family.

View No. 3.

At a spot, a few miles eastward of the city, stand the
ruins of the old palace of Bebeapore. Newab Ausuf-ood-dow-
lah, the first of the Newabs who made Lucknow the caoital.
built this palace as a country residence, and enclosed a park,
in which an immensity of small game was preserved. When-
ever a change of residents, or political agents, to the King's
Court, took place, the new arrival always had this palace placed
at his disposal, until he should be conducted in state to the
Residency in the city. It was from here that went forth the
memorable decree of the Government of India for the deposi-
tion of Wuzeer Ali, the adopted son and heir of Ausuf-ood-
dowlah. Wuzeer Ali was subsequently removed to Benares,
where he became notorious as the murderer of Mr. Cherry,
the Governor-General's Agent. It was here also that
Lord Teignmouth held a grand Durbar, the object of which
was, to obtain the enthronement of Newab Saadat Ali Khan,
in succession te Wuzeer Ali. The object was attained, and the
reign of Saadut Ali Khan proved eminently successful.

The palace might still be so far repaired as to be inhabi-
table, but there does not, at present, appear to be any special
way in which it could be utilized. The park is utterly neg-
lected, and is now infested with wild animals.
2

( 10 )

On the road from Bebeapore to the city is —

View No. 4.

The summer house In this garden was erected by King
Naseer-ood-deen Hyder, and the grounds were laid out by him
and planted with European plants, principally ; hence its
designation. It lies on the banks of the river Goomtee and
was, in the King's time, a very handsome pleasure-garden.
It was a favourite resort of the King, who used to proceed
there by water, accompanied by the members of his Court, in
pleasure-boats, by night. The garden is not remarkable on
account of any historical associations ; it is the station regatta
winning-post ; it has fallen into neglect, but still retains some
remnants of its original beauty.

We next come to the — •

DXWOOSHA.

View No. 5.

This magnificent hunting-box, or country-seat, was built
by Saadut Ali Khan. He cleared away the dense jungle sur-
rounding it, and converted the grounds into an immense, well-
arranged park, which he stocked with deer and other game,
and further so beautifully ornamented the place, that it
became the favourite resort of the ladies of the court during
the summer months.

During the siege of the Bailie Guard, in 1857, the
Dilkoosha was held, in great force, by the enemy, but on
the 14th November it was captured by Sir Colin Campbell,
when he advanced to the relief of the beleaguered Garrison.

After the formation of the new Cantonment, at Mahomed
Bagh, the Dilkoosha was made a residence for the General
commanding the Division, and remained so for years ; but it

( 11 )

Las lately been dismantled, and although it is built on an
eminence, nothing can now be seen of the once noble edifice,
but its bare massive walls and castellated stair-cases. It was
on the western slope of the approach to this building, that
the rescued Garrison of the Bailie Guard bivouacked, on the
night of the 30th November, and attempted to rest their
weary limbs, while prevented from sleeping by the tremen-
dous cannonading kept up by the enemy.

Noi far from this spot, to the northward, is that grand and
nolle pile of buildings known as —

View No. 6.

Called " La Mar tinier e" after the name of its illustrious
founder, General Claude Martin of the King of Oudh's service.
It is also called " Constantia." Its construction was com-
menced during the reign of Newab Ausuf-ood-dowlah who,
when it was nearly completed, became so pleased with the
design of the structure, that he offered to purchase it as it
stood for a million sterling. It is not certain whether the
General accepted the offer ; however, the bargain was broken
off by the deatli of the Newab, and the General also died,
before the building was finished, not, however, before he had
made a provision in his will, to the effect that it should be
completed out of the funds that he had left in the hands of
the British Government, for the special endowment of schools.
The building was accordingly finished, and the magnificent
pile, with its establishment, now known as " La Martiniere
College," stands as an elegant and lasting monument to the
memory of one of the greatest benefactors of the youth, of
all creeds and colours, that call India their home. The remains
of the General were buried in a vault in the centre of the
building. During the rebellion of 1857-58, the mutineers

( 12 )

dug up this vault, in the hope of finding treasure ; they were
disappointed, and, it seems, in the height of their rage, scat-
tered the bones of the General about in derisive contempt.
When the position was recaptured, part of the remains were
found, and reverently restored to their resting-place. A
towering pillar of solid masonry, standing in the middle of
an artificial lake adjoining the massive pile, also perpetuates
the memory of the great man.

General Claude Martin was a native of Lyons : he came to
India, as a soldier, under Lally, in 1760, and after the sur-
render of Pondicherry, was appointed to the charge of a
Company of French pioneers, who had been formed into a
Company of Chasseurs. About 1780, he came to Lucknow,
and Newab Seraj-ood-dowlah offered him the command of
the Artillery ; he accepted the offer/ with the consent of the
Hon. East India Company, and acquired the rank of Major
General. He died in 1800, after accumulating several mil-
lions sterling, the bulk of which he bequeathed to the most
noble and charitable purposes.

The canal, which has now to be crossed, is only so far
worthy of mention ; that it was commenced during the reign
of King Nuseer-ood-deen Hyder. It was intended to run
from the Ganges for the purpose of irrigating the country be-
tween Lucknow and Cawnpore ; but barely a few miles had
been excavated when funds failed, the greater portion of the
sums expended having been misappropriated by the contrac-
tors, who fled, with their dishonestly acquired fortunes, away
from the kingdom.

This stupendous ditch, however, afforded the rebels in
1857, a strong line of defence on the southern and eastern
sides of the city, and Sir Colin Campbell's force, when ad-
vancing to the relief of the Residency, had hot work in cross-
ing the awkward gap.

( 13 )

Having crossed the canal, the entrance to the city is from the
eastern quarter ; and immediately to the left will he found- —

View No. 7.

The residence of the Chief Commissioner. This house
was built by Nawab Saadut Ali Khan, and was, during the
reign of Nuseer-ood-deen Hyder, occupied by Colonel Roberts
of the Oudh Service. Upon annexation, Major Banks, Com-
missioner of Lucknow, became the occupant, hence it was,
during the mutiny, known as " Banks' house;" it occupies a
very conspicuous position, and the rebels had a strong hold
of it, until the 18th March, 1858, when it was taken by a
detachment of troops under command of Sir Edward Lugard.
Lately the building has been much enlarged and improved,
and the garden elegantly laid out. This work was com-
menced in 1873, at which time Sir George Couper, Bart.
C. B., C. S., was Officiating Chief Commissioner of Oudh.

There is a certain melancholy interest attaching to the
house, on account of the gallant Hudson having breathed his
last within its walls. He had just despatched, on his own
responsibility, at a most critical moment, certain of the Delhi
Princes who, it was well known, were dangerous foes to the
British.

Across the road, on the right, is an imposing building
that could hardly be believed to be devoted to the purposes of
trade : it is occupied by Messrs. Peake, Allen and Company,
an enterprising firm of merchants.

A little onward is the — ■

DARUL SMAFFA*

View No. 8.
This house, as its name implies, is a Hospital or Dis-
pensary, which was built by Newab Saadut Ali Khan, and

( 14 )

was intended for the reception of the indigent sick, but was
never used for that purpose. It is said that some of the ladies
of the Oudli Court, having conceived a fancy, obtained pos-
session, and made use of it as a place affording retirement,
where they could hold occasional merry-makings in secret.
The house has been thoroughly renovated, and is now the
residence of the Secretary to the Chief Commissioner, and
may be considered one of the most enviable residences in
Lucknow.

Immediately on the right commences a long range of
buildings, the whole together known as the Begum Kothi.
In the days of the King, these comprised the palace of the
Queen mother of Oudh. After the departure of Her Majesty
to Europe, in 1856, the buildings remained occupied, strictly
as a zenana enclosure, by members of the Queen's household ;
but, during the mutiny, the rebels took possession and garri-
soned them. On the reoccupation of Lucknow by the British,
they each had to be taken by storm. The high wall was
levelled, and the several fine buildings, which were hidden
from view, have been converted into handsome shops and
public offices. The first is, the shop of Messrs. Nowrjee and
Company ; the next is the extensive printing establishment
of Moonshee Newul Kishore ; a press that, from the large
quantity of work carried on, is, in all probability, the largest
in India. Next is the shop of Messrs. Cursetjee's sons, and
adjoining is the Government Post Office, formerly an Imam-
harra, or mausoleum ; it is reported that in this building
the late Post Master, Mr. Mackenzie, discovered a quantity of
hidden treasure. The next conspicuous object is Mr. Joseph
Paton's celebrated clock-tower : it contains no clock, because
a portion of the machinery was stolen, and as the building
has since passed into other hands, the empty tower remains
to mark the memory of the builder.

( 15 )

The most imposing structure in Huzrutgunge is —

JrrH

rw m

HI

OTOH All

I

U£

W)

HIM

View No. 9.

A short time after the recapture of Lucknow, a detach-
ment of Royal Horse Artillery, located in this building, dis-
covered treasure, to the amount of some three or four lacs of
rupees, while driving pegs in the ground to picket their
horses but what became of the treasure, is still a mystery.
The agent of the Railway Company now holds office here.

The next building, or range, is occupied by Messrs.
Murray and Company, merchants, and Madame Lines' milli-
nery establishment.

On the opposite side of the street is the Roman Catholic
Chapel, or —

View No. 10.

This beautiful chapel was brought into existence by
subscription from the Roman Catholic community of the Civil
Lines ; its neat appearance and cleanliness speak well for
the energy of the Chaplain, Father Lewis. Further on to-
wards Huzrutgunge, are the coach manufactory of Messrs.
Hormusjee and Company, Messrs. Conway and Company,
and Messrs. Sinclair and Company : going on to the eastward,
past the well-stocked bazar of Huzrutgunge, through the
handsome shad}?" trees will be seen the graceful spire of —

CHRIST ? 1 C1W1C1,

View No. 11,

Built by the Protestant cammunity under the superin-
tendence of Lieutenant Swetenham, R. E. The church is

( 16 )

built in the modern style of architecture. The Reverend
Mr. Moore is the present popular and much respected in-
cumbent.

Further on, a little to the eastward, is the—

W1IGF1I11 FAME.

View No. 12.

This Park, originally called Banarsee Bagh, was in a
very dilapidated state, when it came into possession of the Bri-
tish. It is now named after the late popular Chief Com-
missioner of Oudh, who took advantage of the natural pictu-
resqueness of the spot, to have it carefully beautified with
beds of flowers, umbrageous trees, parterres, gravelled walks
and drives, &c, &c. This park, though not very extensive,
is equal in beauty to any in this part of India. It affords
shade and accommodation for fancy fairs, flower and vegetable
shows, and archery meetings.

The marble oaradurree was once the pride of Huzrut
Bagh. It was removed and rebuilt where it now stands, a
graceful and elegant work of art, in the centre of the flower
garden. This magnificent building is said, like the Taj at
Agra, to have been inlaid with precious stones ; it appears
they have all been removed, for nothing but counterfeit imi-
tations now supply their place.

Returning through Huzrutgunge and turning to the right,
the building vulgarly known as the " Choivper Stables,''' 1 is seen
at a short distance. In this building, the choicest of the King's
horses and equipages used to be kept ; it was considered deci-
dedly stylish for such a purpose. After the annexation it be-
came the barracks of H. M.'s 32nd Light Infantry. During the
mutiny, the rebels converted the range into an arsenal, where
they attempted to make percussion caps and other kind of
ammunition ; it is believed they were not very successful.

( 17 )

It was a work of great difficulty to capture these buildings
after the reoccupation; the enemy fought desperately, and
Sir Colin Campbell's force suffered severely in the engage-
ment.

After the mutiny, the buildings were partitioned off into
quarters for uncovenanted clerks and others ; the grounds have
been turned into gardens, and the building is now ostenta-
tiously termed " Lawrence Terrace ;" a more appropriate
name would be the " Writers' Buildings" of Lucknow.

The straight road leads to the —

View No. 13.

This garden may be very well described as the " Shali-
i mar n of Lucknow. It was built by Wajid Ali Shah, especially
in honor of one of his favourite mehals, Sekunder Begum ;
hence its name. It is encircled by a high wall, and has
earned an imperishable page in history as the death-place of
more than two thousand mutineers who were bayonetted
without mercy, by the exasperated British troops under
command of Sir Colin Campbell, on the 16th of November,
1 857. The rebels, within the high loop-holed wall, had every
advantage in repulsing our troops ; the assault of the British
was gallant in the extreme, and many a brave British soldier
fell, before the stronghold was captured.

Wheeling to the left along the road, the Company Bagh
is seen on the right ; this is a nursery for a great variety of
fruit trees and vegetables.

( 18 )

A short distance further on, is the-

View No. 14.

This is a shrine sacred to the Mahomedans, it was built
by King Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder : it stands on the summit of
a mound, and is believed to contain a stone, bearing the foot-
print of the Prophet Mahomed. The stone is said to have
been brought from Mecca by some distinguished pilgrim.

During the mutiny, the place afforded a strong position
for the rebels, but was soon taken by the British. It is not
a little singular that the building should be held in such re-
verence by the Mahomedans ; for a report is extant, to the
effect that the sacred stone has been stolen ; the shrine there-
fore contains nothing to venerate.

A little further on, is—

View No. 15.

Or the mausoleum of King Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder,
built by himself, for the interment. of his own remains. It is
surrounded by a high wall, and, like the Kuddum Rasool,
afforded the mutineers an excellent position for defence. It
was here that poor Sir William Peel, Commander of the Naval
Brigade, earned an imperishable renown. This brave sailor,
covered by the fire of two heavy guns, and supported by a
small body of Infantry, literally scaled the high wall and
jumped down into the midst of the enemy in the enclosure ;
his men followed his example, and in spite of the immense
superiority of the force they fell amongst, succeeded in deal-
ing terrific slaughter, the ship's cutlass being the only wea-
pon used. The place was soon after occupied by the British
troops under command of Brigadier General Sir Adrian
Hope.

( 19 )

The place derives the name " Najuf," from the hill on
which the tomb of AH, the son-in-law of Mahomed, is built,
of which tomb this is said to be an exact copy.

A fund was left by King Ghazee-ood deen Hyder, to
keep the place in repair, to illuminate it yearly on the anni-
versary of his death, and to maintain an establishment. It
is a place of great sanctity with the Mahomedans, but is not
so grand as the great Imambara of Hosainabad which will be
noticed in due course.

At a short distance, on the same road, is the —

View No. 16.

This building was constructed by Newab Saadut Ali
Khan : it owes its name to a superstructural projection, not
a dome, in a semi-almond form, without any timber supports,
but entirely of masonry, which gave the fancied resemblance
to the curve of a pearl : this answers to the word " Mote." —
Mahal can only be translated as " seraglio," or, " Zenana
Khana ;" the whole name, then, amounts to, the " Pearl
Seraglio." It never was used as a seraglio, and appears to
have been built for purposes of defence, or check, on the
advance of an enemy ; in short, it may be described as the
beau-ideal of a miniature citadel : it is prettily situated on
the banks of the Goomtee, and is connected with a range of
buildings known as the u Mubarik Munzil" and the " Shah
Munzil." These buildings were appropriated to no particular
purposes ; except the last-named, from which the King used
to witness wild sports, of the Spanish Bull fight, or the
Roman Coliseum, order. The smaller wild beasts used to
fight within the enclosure ; here also tiger combats were in-
dulged in ; but the elephant and rhinoceros encounters, which
had to be viewed at a safe distance, were performed on the

( 20 )

opposite side of the Goomtoe, on level ground in front of
Hazaree Bagh. The British Resident, no douht much to
his disgust, used out of courtesy to attend these exhibitions.

Upon the annexation of the province, the " Mote Mahal"
was used temporarily as a Commissariat store. It has since
been purchased from Government by the Maharajah of Bul-
rampore, who has entirely changed the aspect of the build-
ings and of the surrounding country ; the " pearl dome,"
formed in defiance of all mathematical rules of architecture,
has disappeared, and the buildings comprising the " Mote
Mahal" have assumed a grand Baronial appearance, in keep-
ing with their romantic history.

Like all other buildings on record, the " Mote Mahal"
was enclosed by a high wall and, in 1857, was strongly forti-
fied by the rebels. It had, like the rest, to be taken by storm,
which was accomplished by Sir Colin Campbell, who made
it a depot for heavy guns and spare stores. It was here that
Brigadier General Cooper commanding the Artillery, Lieu-
tenant Crumb, Madras Artillery, and Dr. Bartram lost their
lives ; Colonel Campbell also received a wound that, in a
few days, proved mortal. One, however, was fortunate, that
was Private Duffy, of H. M.'s 90th, who recaptured a gun that
the enemy had taken, for which act of gallantry he was re-
warded with the V. C.

On the left of the road will be seen the — ■

mUWrnhmAKW HuHZII*.

View No. 17.
This building, as will be seen from the view, is castel-
lated and surrounded by a deep scarped ditch ; intended
evidently for purposes of defence. The structure was com-
menced by Saadut AH Khan, and finished by Ghazce-ood-deen
Hyder : the purpose that these monarchs had, when design-

( 21 )

ing such a palpable stronghold, is difficult to surmise, and a
study of their histories fails to show the necessity of such a
building ; especially, since the Kings of Oudh declared that
they considered their country perfectly secure under the
guaranteed protection of the British Government. The Kings
of Oudh never made any use of the building, but when the
mutiny broke out, it was strongly fortified, and occupied in
force by the rebels. It took a great many hours' cannonad-
ing, before it was taken by the storming party, consisting of
the Naval Brigade and detachments from the 90th and 53rd
Regiments, when it was stoutly defended by the mutineers.

The Khoorshaid Munzil is entitled to a name in history,
as being the meeting place of the succouring and the reliev-
ing Generals, Outram and Havelock of the former, and
Sir Colin Campbell of the latter : it was here that they shook
hands and congratulated each other on the extraordinary
success of their arms over the overwhelming forces and
apparently impregnable defences of the enemy.

As a contrast to the purpose that the Khoorshaid Munzil
was probably intended to serve, and the demoniac purpose
that it did attempt to serve, it is now turned to a heavenly
purpose : it is the Martiniere Girls' School ; the scarped ditch
is now a bright green lawn for the children's play-ground,
the towers make airy bedrooms for the little girls, and all the
inmates seem to be supremely happy.

Adjoining is the —

View No. 18.

The reason why this was called the Star House is, that
it was intended for an observatory. It forms a kind of set-
off to the general extravagance for which the Kings of Oudh
were notorious. Nusseer-ood-deen Hyder had this house

( 22 )

constructed under European superintendence, and provided
with astronomical instruments of value, but, from the obser-
vations taken, nothing in the service of science seems to have
resulted : the instruments were all demolished by the muti-
neers, and the King always thought more of astrology than
of astronomy. So much for the enlightenment of the
Monarchs of Ouclh.

There was a native of Fyzabad known as Moulvie Ahmed-
ollah Shah, who always had a drum beaten before him where-
ever he went, and was consequently called " Dunka Shah ;"
he made the Khoorshaid Munzil his Head Quarters, and the
Moulvie being of high reputation amongst the Mahomedans,
the house soon became a sort of Baradurree for parliamentary
meetings : however, after the mutiny, finding the country
too hot to hold him, he disappeared, and the house became
a rebel stronghold ; this was stormed and captured by Sir
Colin Campbell's force in 1857, the high wall that surround-
ed it, was demolished, and there now appears, on its mound,
the handsome building known as the Bank of Bene-al.

On the southern side is an extensive space called the u Place
Road," and close by, on the right, stands a very modest unpretend-
ing looking obelisk. This is the —

MIMOElAi OF Til MASSAC11 OF
XUHOPXAN CAPWE3.

View No. 19.

Which commemorates the most calamitous and, perhaps,
the most cruel incident in the whole history of the rebellion
of 1857-58. It was on this spot that Miss Jackson, Sir
Mountstuart Jackson, Mrs. Green, Mrs. Rogers, Captain
Patrick Orr, Lieutenant Burns, Mr. Carew, Mr. J. Sullivan
and Sergeant Morton, with other persons, captured in the
town, and some deserters from the Bailie Guard, were deli-

( 23 )

berately slaughtered in cold blood. The miscreant, Rajah
Jey-lal Singh, who witnessed and instigated this cruel
massacre, was, some years afterwards, convicted of the crime,
on the evidence of his own followers, and was executed in
sight of the spot where stands the memorial of the foul deed :
his wife offered five lacs of rupees for a commutation of the
sentence, but the offer was indignantly refused ; his estates
and property were confiscated, and in this world no greater
punishment could be inflicted upon him.

Towards the left is the Ainult Bas Ice-kothee, next is a pretty
building, the Delhi and London Bank. Adjoining is the —
wmmwmm WAH X©T HI.

KM

View No. 20.

During the mutiny, this building was made the Head
Quarters of the rebel General, Burkat Ahmud ; as to who
built it, or what use it was formerly put to, history is con-
flicting : at present it is occupied by Captain Pitcher, Judge
of the Small Cause Court.

On the right is a large building, formerly used as a
church : it is the tomb of Amjud Ali Shah, the fourth King of
Oudh, and iscommonly called " Junnut llakan Jca Imambarra."

Turning again toivards the Obelisk, on arriving at the end
of the street, is seen the —

;wiii hovsx.

View No. 21.

So named because, when illuminated, from its great
height it lighted up the neighbourhood for miles around:

( 24 )

it was built by Newab Saadut Ali Khan and became the
residence of one of his sons. Sir Henry Havelock took ad-
vantage of this building, and, from it, saw his way through
the enemy's third line of defences so as to effect an entrance
into Kaiser Bagh : the enemy detected him in the act, and
until lately, the walls of that house bore the marks of a
shower of grape aimed at him from the guns below.

Immediately at the back is Zahoor Buksh-ke-Kothee,
another Imambarra, now the premises of the Church Mission
Press. These buildings, together with the one on the oppo-
site side of the road, formed one enclosure surrounded by
high walls. During the rebellion the place was occupied by
the enemy in great force, and had to be taken by storm. The
walls have since been demolished ; and the whole place being
opened out, and the different edifices almost entirely rebuilt,
no trace of its original appearance remains.

Entering now the Kaiser Baugh by the Northern gate,
or archway, through which the unfortunate captives, Sir
Mountstuart Jackson, and the rest, were led to a savage and
barbarous massacre, an open court has to be passed, called
" Jelloo Kliana" or place where Royal Processions used to
parade and form up in preparation to start : then to the
right, through another archway, the Chenee Baugh appears ;
so called from the circumstance of its having been ornament-
ed with China, or what appeared to be China, vessels ; another
archway, flanked by green mermaids, leads into " Huzrut
Baugh." On the right is the " Chandeewalee Barradurree" so
named from the fact of the columns and roof having been,
originally, covered with silver, the whole of which was torn
off and appropriated by the rebels of 1857 notoriety, anxious
to plunder alike friend and foe : afterwards, the Chandeewalee
Barradurree became the office of the Oudh Gazette, now ex-
tinct, and the building has been sold to a private individual.

There was a building on this spot, called Khas Makan,
used by the ladies of the Court, but, as it has been pulled

( 25 )

down, and the ground, upon which it stood, levelled, it is
needless to relate its history, it must sink into oblivion, ac-
cording to the fate of works produced by human ; hands this
work only professes to treat of the histories of such as remain,
either intact, or in ruins.

Close by, " Badshah MunsiV is seen. This building was
used by the King as the Council-house, for the State recep-
tion of the British Resident, it was in those days finely
decorated; but it was here that General Outram read the
stern decree of Government, by which the kingdom of Oudh
was inexorably annexed, and the monarchy was put an end
to. Because the ex-king ceased to be King from this house,
the natives call it the " Gharut Munnl," or, " desolated house."

The quarters over the mermaid archway, just passed,
were originally occupied by Nawab Ali Naki Khan, primi
mortis, so that he. might be close to the King, and thereby
have the earliest opportunity of knowing all that was going
on. The buildings adjoining were the residences of the
chief mehals; and afterwards the Rebel Begum, Huzrut
Mehal, held her court there* In the stables near that place,
the British captives were kept for some weeks.

Further on, the great u Lackhee Gate or archway" so called
from its having cost a lakh of rupees in building, is passed, and
then a magnificent quadrangle opens to the view ; this is the cele-
brated —

ILftlSjIJI IlJkfxII, wm CsiEsAII S tiAMIlJIIf ®

Views Nos. 22 to 24.

Or the famous palace of the ex-King, Wajid Ali Shah
Sultan-a-Aulum. This great palace was commenced by the
ex-King in the year 1850, and, in his wild ambition to have
a palace of surpassing grandeur, he had it completed in the
shortest time possible, at a cost of more than a million ster-
4

( 26 )

ling. The principal part of the palace comprised the great
rectangle, the buildings surrounding which would provide
quarters for upwards of a thousand Mehals, or Queens ; there
were many other detached buildings also forming part of the
palace ; each building was provided with a private garden
of its own, the whole was enclosed by a high masonry wall,
and the gardens, in the centre of the square, were most tast-
fully laid out and adorned with innumerable fountains ; the
walks were lined with classic statuary, the surrounding: build-
ings were sumptuously furnished and richly decoratad with
large chandeliers, girandoles, wall brackets, furniture ela-
borately mounted in silver and gold, embroidered curtains,
Cashmere tapestry: everything calculated to add to the
splendour of an Oriental Court was brought into requisition,
no matter what the cost, or from what distance the articles
had to be brought. This, like the flickering of a lamp, was
the last attempt of the monarchs of Oudh, to make them-
selves great amongst nations ; it was a brilliant attempt, but
not sufficiently dazzling to deceive the British Government.

Although long since deserted by royalty, the remains
of the palace are still magnificent ruins in a good state of
preservation, but from a present view, no adequate idea of
what the original tout ensemble resembled, can be conveyed.
The buildings composing the main rectangle have been made
over to the Talookdars, or Barons, of Oudh, who make use of
some portions as dwelling-houses, leaving the remainder as
roofless and dismantled walls, presenting to the view a
striking reminiscence of oriental grandeur and extravagance
converted into a desolate waste. The great arched entrances
still remain with their massive gates in bronze, bearing on
their panels, in basso relievo, representations of the mermaid
and the royal insignia of the King of Oudh.

In fighting their way towards the Bailie Guard, the
Kaiser Bagh was one of the strongest positions our troops
had to take : the buildings were crowded with mutineers who

( 27 )

had loaded themselves with plunder, the spoil of the richest
seraglio in the world : the British troops rushed into the
rooms and, with bayonet and bullet, slaughtered without
mercy the luckless rebels, making them disgorge their ill-
gotten plunder which was scattered about in reckless con-
fusion, mingled with their blood.

Between the qreat quadrangle of Kaiser Bagh, and China
Bazar , stand two mausoleums of imposing size and grandeur, these
are —

SAA1VT All EMAILS TOMB, All
X00H8HXD 1A1M TOMB.

Views Nos. 25 and 26.

The Mukara, or tomb, of Nawab Saadut Ali Khan, has
since his death been called, by apotheosis, " Junnut Aram-
gah" or the house of one whose soul reposes in paradise.
The other tomb is that of Moorshed Zadi, the Queen of
Saadut Ali Khan.

The spot on which these tombs now stand, was formerly
occupied by a house in which Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder, son of
Saadut Ali Khan, resided. History says that, when the son
came to the throne in the father's place, he remarked that,
since he had taken his father's house, it was but fair that he
should give up his own to his father and mother ; according-
ly he gave orders for his former abode to be destroyed, and
for the two mausoleums, under description, to be built on the
site. The Royal Family of Oudh never displayed any remark-
able traits of filial affection, so that, admitting the truth
of this tradition, Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder must have been an
exception to the general rule. The resting-place of some
ten or fifteen British soldiers, who lost their lives by an ex-
plosion, is marked on a spot between the two tombs.

( 28 )

Close by is the square called Huzrut Bagh. This con-
tained a tykhana, or underground apartment, from which, a
few days before the disastrous expedition to Chinhutt, an
immense quantity of jewels, plate and gold and silver orna-
ments set with precious stones, were secured, by Major
Banks, the Commissioner, and conveyed in safety into the
Residency : the whole mass afterwards realized nearly a
million sterling at a public auction in Calcutta. In respect to
these jewels, the action of Major Banks was most praiseworthy
and determined : the Major, armed with orders from Sir
Henry Lawrence, who had positive information of the exist-
ence of the treasure, requested a certain functionary, named
Miftah-ood-dowlah, who was the actual custodian, to allow
him to see the treasure : the man positively denied all know-
ledge of the existence of such a treasure ; but on the Major
drawing his revolver and threatening to shoot the fellow,
he become nervous, and calling for lights, led the way, in a
faltering manner, down a flight of steps into the underground
room, where the treasure was found packer! in a number of
antique looking boxes. This apartm ent also contained a
vast quantity of valuable articles, such as silver howdahs,
chairs, bedsteads and other rich property which, unfortu-
nately, there was no time to remove. Miftah-ood-dowlah
evidently expected assistance from a number of Seedees,
Africans, the King's retainers, who were present, but the
precaution had been taken to form up a battery of Artillery
and a body of Infantry in position, whilst the Major entered
the tykhana, accompanied by thirty picked volunteers.
When the mutineers entered Lucknow a few days afterwards,
greedy for plunder, much to their chagrin, they found the
tykhana empty : they, however, seized upon, and occupied,
Kaiser Bagh, appropriating the valuable furniture, jewels,
dresses and other property of the ex-King and the opulent
ladies of the Court, making the most terrible havoc throughout
the sumptuously fitted suites of ladies' apartments.

( 29 )

Leaving the Western gate, a large four-storied building,
surmounted by a gilt semicircle and, originally, a gilt hemisphere
or semi-dome, is seen. This is the —

KAXSIH PWSSW11.

View No. 27.

The house of " Caesar's pleasure.'" This fantastic building
belonged to Koshun-ood-dowlah,KingNaseer-ood-deenHyder's
Prime Minister, but Wajid Ali Shah, the last King of Oudh,
took possession of it, under what understanding is not known,
and placed it at the disposal of a favourite Mehal, Maushookos
Sultan, for her residence. It was in the tykhanas, or under-
ground chambers, of this building, that the British captives,
Miss Jackson, Mrs. Green, and the rest, were confined, up to
the time they were led out to the front of the gateway, alrea-
dy described, to be publicly and barbarously murdered.

The interior of the Kaiser Pussund was originally de-
corated sumptuously and furnished with the usual Oriental
magnificence ; the exterior still has a very palatial appear-
ance, as may be seen from, the view ; but the whole pile has
been for years past, and is still, put to a very different use
to what it was intended to serve : its spacious and lofty
rooms are now turned into the offices of the Treasury, City
Superintendent of Police, the Courts of the Deputy Commis-
sioner, the City Magistrate and others. The structure must
have cost an immense sum, and may be taken as a fair speci-
men of the notorious extravagance of the rulers of Oudh.

To the right, at the end of this road, is a small arch known
■as —

IIIK GAT i*

View No. 28.

This arch was formerly called " Share Barwaza, or
Tiger's Gate. The history of the extraordinary feats of arms,

( 30 )

the unprecedented boldness, the reckless bravery of that gal-
lant soldier, General Neil, has already rilled the world with
astonishment. With a small force, he traversed the country,
and, in all the terrible engagements he fought, never knew
defeat. His name struck terror into the hearts of the rebels,
the mere mention of " Neil" caused trembling and flight.
That resolute soldier, in his unbroken career of conquest,
saved station after station, relieved Allahabad, and, to the
amazement and consternation of the enemy, pursued them so
rapidly, that they had the greatest difficulty to escape. In
pursuance of the inexorable determination and energy which
characterized him, he advanced to the relief of Lucknow, and
while leading his numerically diminutive, but valiant, fol-
lowers through the gate, shown in the view, to the rescue of
the beleaguered Garrison, in which he knew there were not
only British soldiers in danger, but ladies and little children ;
a. shot from a battery of the enemy's in Kaiser Bagh struck
him, and deprived England of as intrepid and successful a
soldier as she ever possessed.

To mark the spot where he fell, there certainly ought
to be a monument, or something better than the wretched little
arch, seen in the view ; however, General Neil was not the
man to claim honors from his country ; his pride lay in the
knowledge of having done his duty ; and he did it well.

Beyond this spot, is the ground on which formerly stood
the barracks of a Police Battalion, under command of Captain
Adolphus Orr. This Battalion rebelled, and in their pursuit
poor Thornhill, of the Civil Service, a son-in-law of Sir
Henry Havelock, received a wound, which proved mortal.

( 81 )

Further to the North, spanning the river Goomtee, is-

View No. 29.
There was formerly a bridge of boats here ; the present
bridge was built in 1865, and completed in 1866, under the
superintendence of Mr. Bruce, the then Municipal Engineer.
The work can hardly be said to have turned out an engineer-
ing success, since, during the flood season of 1870, the north
side wing pier was cut under by the current and gave way :
it has since been repaired and is open for traffic, but its per-
manency is questionable, since the plan upon which it is
built seems adapted to a tidal river, rather than a river sub-
ject to floods, like the Goomtee. The old stone bridge,
built nearly a hundred years ago, may be placed in contrast,
it preserves its original solidity, and it will be described
hereafter.

To the west on the banks of the river, appears a pile of
buildings called the — -

ClUTTll MWMtt,

View Nos. 30 and 31.

This consists of a number of very handsome, lofty build-
ings, the chief of which is imposingly situated on the right
bank of the Goomtee ; it is conspicuous, especially on ac-
count of its chatter, or umbrella, which, covered with gold,
glitters in the sun, at a great height, above the building.
This enormous parachute gives the name to the whole group
of buildings. In architecture, these structures are a pleasing
mixture of the Oriental geometrical, the Italian, and the
French, chateau : they were built, at a fabulous expense, by
King Naseer-ood-deen Hyder, as residences for his numerous
Mchals or Queens. At that time they were surrounded by a
high masonry wall, and afforded a powerful stronghold for the

( 32 )

rebels in 1857-58. The tremendous amount of battering
necessary to dislodge the mutineers from tliis position, before
it could be taken, would hardly be believed by any one that
was not actually present with Sir Henry Havelock's force.

The largest of the buildings is now the United Service
Club, a most elegant restaurant, delightfully cool in the summer
months and offering the best accommodation, such even the
clubs of Pall Mall might envy : it may also be considered the
Town Hall of Lucknow, since public meetings, balls, soirees,
and committees are held there. The other buildings, all four-
storied, are used as public offices ; the Small Cause Court,
and Civil Court &c.

Close hy, on the same road, is the —

LAL BARABVREH.

View No. 32.

The common name of this building, Kasrool Khnlcan,
or King's house, conveys no description of what it was used
or intended for. Leaving religion out of the question, it may
be considered the " Westminster Abbey" of Oudh. It was
the Throne Eoom, the Coronation Hall, and Grand Durbar,
or Hall of Assembly, of the monarchs of Oudh. It takes its
name from the colour of the stone, with which it is built, or
the plastering with which it is covered, being red. From
the time of Saadut-Ali Khan, all coronations took place in
the great hall of this " Lai Baradurree."

As will be seen from the view, the plan of the architects
was \ o make the building colossal ; in keeping with the pur-
pose for which it was intended, but although a fine structure,
it falls far behind the Athenian or Roman Models.

From the history of Oudh, it will be remembered that a
dispute to the succession took place between Moonna Jan,
the pretender, and Naseer-ood-dowlah ; the people were in

( 33 )

a state of intense excitement, the argument in the Lai Bara-
durree was fast approaching a riot ; the usurper attempted
to coerce the British Resident into acknowledging his right
to the succession ; the Resident, Colonel' Lowe, resolutely
refused to present the accustomed nuzzur, or offering, to
Moonna Jan, and finding a number of insurgents about the
place, gave orders for cannon to be brought to bear on the
building, and would undoubtedly have reduced it to ruins,
had not Moonna Jan, with his mother, the Badsha Begum,
and all their followers, made their escape, leaving Nussur-
©od-dowlah in undisputed possession of the throne.

The grandest Durbar ever known in Lucknow was held
in the Lai Baradurree : it took place on the triumphal entry
of Lord Canning into the capital ; every noble in Oudh was
present in his most glaring costume, resplendent with jewel-
lery, the staff of the Governor-General was extremely bril-
liant ; probably neither before nor since has so picturesque "a
scene been witnessed in the Lai Baradurree.

The result of that Durbar formed a new era in the his-
tory of Oudh ; the nobles were clearly given to understand
who were their Governors, and what was the policy of the
British Government.

The Lai Baradurree is kept, by the British Government,
in a state of good preservation, and is used up to the present
day for the purpose of holding durbars, whenever such as-
semblies are necessary.

The same road leads to a spot tJiat will ever he held sacred
in history : it is the —

BAXUI OTA11.

Views Nos. 33 and 3-L

From such a poor common name very little can be
gathered, but really there is no name that can be given j

( 34 )

no poetry could describe, no pen could narrate, adequately,
the terrible bloody, but glorious history of that place, that
Aceldama, called the Bailie Guard. The histories of battles
and sieges, such as Alma, Inkermann and Sebastopol are
comparatively ephemeral, evanescent as flashes of light-
ning in a passing thunder-storm ; but the history of the
defence made by the Lucknow Garrison, in the Bailie
Guard, will live for ever.

To the scene of the ground upon which the Lucknow
Garrison sustained a siege of unparalleled severity for seven
months, hemmed in by a barbarous and relentless foe, thirst-
ing, like wolves, for blood and, like mercenary fanatics, for
treasure, the entrances are now ordinary carriage drives ; and,
without explanation, the traveller can see but little that will
convey an adequate idea of the sufferings and hardships,
encountered and overcome at such a terrible sacrifice, by
the glorious Garrison, truly described by the " Bayard of
India''' as " more than illustrious."

The term " Bailie Guard" owes its origin to a Resident
of the Court of Oudh, Colonel Bailie, whose official escort of
troops used to be located at the gate leading to the Resi-
dency. During the siege, this gate was blocked up with
sandbags, and barricades were erected behind it : it was
then called a " post," or point of defence, and was placed in
charge of Lieutenant Aitkin of the 13th Native Infantry ; a
few men of his corps remained loyal and cast in their lot,
for good or for evil, along with him ; with their help, he de-
fended the position most gallantly throughout, performing
acts of incredible bravery : he was rewarded with the Vic-
toria Cross, and is now Colonel and Inspector-General of
Police, Oudh, a recognition which he well deserves.

Passing the building formerly used by the ex-King as
stables for his Arabian horses, now the Lucknow Museum,
the archway (View No. 33) comes in sight ; this was forti-
fied, and for five months the shot and shell of the enemy

( 35 )

could make no impression on it, and it withstood successfully
their most furious attacks. This archway was the proper
entrance to the Residency : it was through it that the brave
relieving force marched with the gallant Outram at their
head, on the 25th of September, 1857. The General was
wounded early in the day, but still kept his place in the
saddle and remained at the head of his column. On this
event, the enthusiasm of the defenders has been graphically
described by Sir George Couper ; it put new life into them
just at a time when they considered their fate sealed and had
given up all hope. General Outram was the first man who
entered the Bailie Guard to effect the memorable " relief of
LucknowP Every man who could stand upon his feet joined
in giving hearty British cheers at the entrance of that force
which proclaimed to them that they were saved from a fate
worse than death. Women and children then experienced
that blessed sense of security which only those who have
encountered, and been providentially saved from, imminent
peril, can possibly appreciate. Native and European con-
gratulated each other ; mothers folded their darling children
to their breasts ; and an earnest prayer of thanksgiving
arose to Heaven. For Outram and Havelock, it seemed at
that moment, that a draught of immortality had been drunk
from the Divine stream ; they are now in their honored graves ;
the memory of their gallant deeds dwells, in sincere grati-
tude, in the hearts of the survivors of that Garrison ; and, as
companions in arms on earth, it is the earnest prayer of all
that they may be companions of angels in heaven. Stars of
the battle-field, where the sword and bayonet glittered in
the charge and death-fires flashed, they calmly smiled at the
foe, wrenched from the cowardly rebels the sceptre of mo-
narchy which they had assumed, and dashed them into the
slough of despond, which they had themselves prepared for
the British.

{ 36 )

It is necessary here to notice the disastrous expedition
to Chinhutt, because it was from the date of this battle that
the siege of the Bailie Guard commenced. The head of the
intelligence department was the Finanical Commissioner,
Martin Gubbins, who learned that a body of rebels were threa-
tening Lucknow, but it appears had no accurate information
of their strength. The British force was most inadequate,
consisting only of a small body of infantry, some volunteer
cavalry, a few field guns, and an eight-inch howitzer drawn
by an elephant ; Newab Mohsin-ood-dowlah, grandson of
Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder, the first King of Oudh, sent ele-
phants, carts and other conveyances to assist the expedition,
which marched off under a tropical sun on a hot morning in
the month of June. The rebel forces were encountered at a
distance of six miles, but to the surprise of the British, an
army of infantry, cavalry and artillery, calculated at sixty
thousand strong, regularly organized, drilled and disciplined
with a Commander-in-Chief and full staff, was formed up. A
check was given for a moment to the enemy's advance, by a
spirited charge of the volunteer cavalry ; the rebels were
taught by this to keep a respectful distance ; treating the
small British force like hornets that could sting sharp, but
that they would much like to catch, they tried hard to sur-
round the diminutive body by out-flanking ; and the British,
seeing this movement, were compelled to retreat, abandoning
their guns, elephants and carriage, and leaving Colonel Case
and nearly one hundred men of Her Majesty's 32nd amongst
the killed. Lieutenant-Colonel Inglis was in command, but
the fatal movement was principally directed by Sir Henry
Lawrence. The force retreated at once into the Bailie Guard
and the siege commenced. It was from a shell, from the
same eight-inch howitzer which thus fell into the possession
of the rebels at the battle of Chinhutt, that Sir Henry Law-
rence, whilst seated in a room on the north-east corner of
the Eesidency, received his death-wound on the third day

{ 37 )

after the commencement of the siege. He died on the third
or fourth day afterwards. Sensible to the last, his final re-
quest was, that nothing should be inscribed on his tomb
except the words — ■

" HERE LIES HENRY LAWRENCE,

Who tried to do Ms duty ;
may the Lord have mercy on his soul."

Leaving the small, grim-looking archway, which formed
the principal entrance to the Residency (View No. 33), on
the south is the site of the Post Office Garrison, where Major
Anderson of the Bengal Engineers died from long sickness,
and where the brave Mace of Her Majesty's 32nd also expired
from the effects of wounds received while leading a sortie
on the Cawnpore road.

Adjoining, was Sago's Garrison where Bryson, a brave
volunteer, was shot while endeavouring to repair a gap in
the roof; a little above this, was the Judicial Garrison, a
very important, but much exposed post, defended by Sikhs
and volunteers who fought desperately. On the opposite
side of the road, the enemy held a very strong position be-
hind loop-holed walls, where, secure from British bullets,
they kept up an incessant galling fire on the Garrison, which
was thus placed almost at their mercy. The enemy made
many determined attempts to enter the entrenchment at this
spot, but were invariably repulsed by its brave defenders
under Major Gorman, 13th Native Infantry. Here Lieuten-
ant Green of the same regiment died from exhaustion
caused by the severity of his duties ; and one brave volunteer
was shot through the head.

A few yards to the south was Anderson's out-post which,
from its position, close to the Cawnpore Battery, was terribly
exposed to the fire of the enemy : the roof was battered down,
falling on the heads of the defenders. The Commandant,
Captain Anderson, 25th Native Infantry, and Mr. Capper,

( 38 )

C. S., now a Commissioner in Oudh, were literally buried in
the ruins, but were dug out, alive and not much hurt.

A little to the rear of the Cawnpore Battery was
Dupratt's Garrison. M. Dupratt was a French gentleman
of indomitable and even reckless courage. His manner
towards the enemy was not only defiant in the extreme, but
by gesture and vociferous, or positively insulting, language,
he tried his hardest to exasperate the rebels and thus cause
them, in the height of their rage, to expose themselves in an
attempt at a futile attack, hurriedly organized ; and many a
mutineer bit the dust, through the extraordinary system of
tactics adopted by this brave and enthusiastic Frenchman.
It was M. Dupratt who received overtures from the miscre-
ant Nana Saheb, offering him a " command" of a most im-
portant nature in the rebel army. To the everlasting honor
of the French nation, be it recorded, that M. Dupratt scorn-
fully rejected the offer. He was at length killed by a shot,
whilst gallantly defending his post.

Near to this spot are the ruins of a building that was
occupied by the Martiniere boys, who, under command of
their Principal, rendered valuable service by attending the
sick and wounded, and performing various duties, such as
grinding corn, &c, conducing much towards the comfort of
the besieged : they were also brave and active in defending
their post, firing well directed vollies at the enemy. Many
of those boys, now men, may be recognized, in the ranks of
the present Lucknow Rifle Volunteer Corps, their breasts
displaying the honors they won in the memorable siege of
the Bailie Guard.

The Cawnpore Battery, the position of which has al-
ready been pointed out, was considered as desperate and
dangerous a post to hold as any in the whole line of defences ;
here, as elsewhere, the enemy made frantic, though futile,
attempts to carry the place by storm. Hand-grenades, thrown
amongst the crowds of yelling fanatics, dealt death and de-

( 39 )

struction, and inflicted such ghastly and excruciating wounds
that an ignominious retreat, leaving heaps of dead and
wounded, was nearly always the result. The defenders,
however, did not escape scatheless. In this battery, Lieu-
tenants Lavin and Alexander of the Artillery, Lieutenant
Arthur and Captain Radcliffe, of the 7th Cavalry, were mor-
tally wounded ; and many other valuable lives were lost in
defending this post. Respecting Captain Radcliffe, it may
be here related, that it was on the memorable day of the
" Relief," while all hearts were rejoicing at the arrival of
the gallant succouring force, that that brave and indefati-
gable officer, after surviving nearly three months' hard work
and exposure, at various outposts, received his death-wound ;
a calamity which converted the transient joy of the defenders
into inexpressible sorrow, for he was as much admired and
loved by friends, as he was feared by the enemy. It was
Radcliffe, who as Commandant of the Volunteer Company,
with only about forty men, brought up the rear of the fugi-
tive column from Chinhutt, successfully keeping at bay the
relentless rebels, who were in hot pursuit on all sides.

Next is a spot, called during the siege " Sikh's Square,"
especially remarkable as having been the scene of one of the
most extraordinary escapes ever known in the annals of battles
and sieges. The enemy here sprung a mine, blowing
Captains Alexander, Orr and Mecham, into the air. Those
officers fell on the enemy's side of the defences, but, being
providentially unhurt, contrived to regain their own entrench-
ment in safety. Ten Christian drummers, who were lying
asleep when the explosion took place, were, however, less
fortunate ; the poor fellows were buried under the ruins of a
fallen building. The astonishing conduct of the enemy on
this occasion may be taken as an amusing illustration of the
deplorable incapacity of the natives of Hindustan generally
for anything like active warfare, except when led by Euro-
pean officers and supported by European troops. The

( 40 )

springing of this mine opened a breach broad enough for a
column of infantry to have dashed through ; and had they
followed up the advantage thus gained", the enemy would
have secured possession of the post without striking a single-
blow, and would, or might, have opened the way to the cap-
ture of the whole Garrison ; but, on the contrary, the rebels
appeared astounded at the demolition effected by their own
work, and fled from the spot with the utmost precipitation.

Separated from this by a high wall, stand the ruins of
the Brigade Mess-house, which was used as the Head Quarters
of Brigadier Inglis, Commandant of the Garrison : the post
was a commanding one, from which the rifles of some of the
officers kept the rebels in effectual check, and prevented
them from making any serious attacks on the defences to the
right and left. When the breach was opened by the explo-
sion of the mine, described above, it appears that the Sikhs,
who occupied part of the square, fled ; and except for the
hot fixe kept up from the Brigade Mess-house, there was
nothing to prevent the enemy from passing through the
breach, but their own cowardice.

On the right stood what were known as the " ladies'
quarters," and immediately fronting those buildings, are the
ruins of Mr. Ommaney's house ; this was considered toler-
ably safe, notwithstanding the fact that, Mr. Ommaney was
killed in it, during the early part of the seige, by a stray
shot from one of the enemy's batteries, close to the entrench-
ment on the westward.

Almost adjoining this on the left, is Mr. Gubbins, the
Financial Commissioner's, house. This was really a small
fortress in itself, the redoubtable Gubbins acting as his own
commandant, although Major Ashton, 41st Native Infantry,
claimed and enjoyed the honor of the post. The building-
was in a very exposed position, affording the enemy pro-
minent marks for the exercise of their artillery and musketry.
It was against this house, that the rebels exploded a mine

( 41 )

on the occasion of the last and most desperate general assault
made on the entire entrenchment. It was here that the
gallant Lieutenant Fulton, of the Engineers, alter braving
the dangers and privations of the siege, almost to the end,
after working mine and countermine, to the surprise and
consternation of the enemy, for months, was shot through
the head, whilst reconnoitering the enemy's positions. It
was here too that Major Banks the Commissioner, whom Sir
Henry Lawrence on his death-bed, had nominated as his
successor, was shot through the head, before he had been
many days in the position assigned him ; a position for which
opinion was unanimous that he was admirably fitted. Here
also, Mr. Cameron, a Calcutta merchant, sank under exhaus-
tion caused by excessive hard work at the batteries. Dr.
Brison also, who had escaped all the horrors of the Cabul
massacre and the dangers of the Khyber Pass, was mortally
wounded by a shot through the back received while sitting
at dinner at Mr. Grubbins' table. Mrs. Dorin, widow of Cap-
tain Dorin, of the 41st, who was murdered by the mutineers
at Seetapore ; had made her escape to Lucknow disguised as
an ayah, was killed by a round shot, whilst in bed in Mr.
Grubbins' house. Poor Mr. Grubbins himself survived the
horrors of the siege only to meet a more melancholy fate ; the
unfortunate gentleman put an end to his own life whilst in a
state of temporary insanity : such was the stern decree of
fate, to which all must yield. Martin Gubbins has, however,
left behind him a deathless memorial in the best written and
most authoritative work on the " Mutinies of Oudh," in
which the siege of Lucknow is graphically described. The
book, will, as ages pass in succession, like the epic history of
the siege of Troy, which long lay neglected, be read with
increasing interest and excitement.

Turning to the right, from Gubbins' house ; in full view
stand the ruins of the " Old Residency," in all the melan-
choly grandeur of a once magnificent mansion, in all the
6

( 42 )

superb beauty of mournful decay. The structure was erected
by Saadut Ali Khan, King of Oudh, for the express purpose
of a palatial dwelling for the British Resident at the Court of
Oudh, and the king seems to have spared no pains to produce
an edifice that, with its subordinate buildings, should possess
all architectural characteristics of royalty, and a view of the
ruins will not fail to convince the beholder that His Majesty
succeeded. During the siege, the spacious tykhana was occu-
pied by the families of Her Majesty's 32nd "regiment. In
consequence of the open space around the Residency, the
people of the garrison could not leave, or go to the building,
without risking their lives, for the clear ground was con-
stantly swept by shot, shell and bullets, and the enemy kept
a sharp lookout for any one attempting to pass ; the build-
ing itself also formed a convenient target for the rebels to
point their guns at, as the result clearly testified. The
severe cannonading, to which the Residency was subjected,
brought down the roof of the eastern verandah, burying
seven men of Her Majesty's 32nd, in the ruins; two of these
were extricated alive, the remainder perished. Ensign Stud-
die of Her Majesty's 32nd, amongst numerous others, was
killed here ; poor Miss Palmer, being one of the number.

To the east are to be seen the dismantled and shattered
walls of what was once the " Banqueting Hall ;" the mas-
sive columns which supported the roof still standing and
forming, at a single view, a truly majestic ruin ; many a
brave warrior, many a proud statesman and many a patri-
cian beauty have met in courtly assembly here, have joined
in the mazy dance, and made the walls ring with merry
laughter, little imagining what was so soon to be the sad fate
of the noble structure. During the siege, it was converted
into a hospital, but, as a two-storied building, it was, on
account of its height, much exposed to the enemy's fire : in
the words of Sir George Couper :—" Round shot and shell
crashed into it from all sides" and the upper story was, in a

( 43 )

few days, rendered utterly untenable ; the basement rooms
were consequently crammed to suffocation ; there the ener-
vated sick and wounded of the feeble garrison languished
and died amid all the miseries engendered by wounds, foul
atmosphere, disease, confinement and, worse than all, sus-
pense and its companion despair. Further, the lower story
was not secure from the enemy's round shot and musketry :
many of the sufferers were shot in their beds. None but
those who witnessed that scene, can form an adequate idea of
the anguish, misery and horror that existed. Let it be said
here, that those who were able, in any way, to afford assist-
ance in mitigating the sufferings of the doomed unfortunates,
did so most readily and cheerfully ; and may it be remem-
bered to their honour. The Reverend Mr. Polehampton
ministered to the spiritual wants of the sick and wounded
with creditable assiduity, until at length he was carried off
himself; but in what manner, history is conflicting ; one
account says that he received a bullet in the breast while
sitting beside a wounded man, another account states that he
died from cholera : his widow, however, survived the siege.

A short distance in advance, between the Residency and
the Banqueting Hall, on the summit of a grassy mound,
stands the " Lawrence Memorial," a simple but handsome
pillar of chunar stone, designed by, and executed under the
superintendence of Mr. Cuthbert Thornhill, Commissioner
of Allahabad. It was inaugurated in 1864, and the address,
delivered on the occasion by Sir George Couper, was thrill-
ing in the extreme ; penetrating to the hearts of the survivors,
who knew Sir Henry and had fought with him, and of whom
many were present. The spot upon which the monument is
erected is not remarkable for any incidents connected with
the siege : it was an open space, very dangerous to cross,
and it was in attempting to cross this plain, that poor Captain
Graidon was literally riddled with bullets, causing instan-
taneous death.

( 44 )

The memorial hears the following inscription : —

TO THE MEMORY OP

MAJOR GENERAL SIR HENRY LAWRENCE, K.C.B.

AND THE

BEAYE MEN WHO FELL

IN DEFENCE OF THE RESIDENCY,

A. D., 1857.

On the right is the site of the Redan Battery, which
was as redoubtable as its great namesake at Sebastopol, in
its own way. The Redan on the north, the Cawnpore
Battery on the south, and the Mortar Battery at the Post
Office, acting in conjunction, were the salvation of the
apparently doomed garrison. The Redan commanded the
passage over the Iron Bridge, which will be noticed pre-
sently, and kept in check the enemy's batteries at Dil-auram
and Badshah Bagh which, with those on the west, posted in
mosques on the summits of mounds, played with deadly
effect on the Residency : the Redan was commanded by
Lieutenant Lawrence of Her Majesty's 32nd throughout the
whole siege. That fearless officer was wounded several
times, but, happily, recovered from his injuries.

The sites of the most important outposts and positions
have now been treated of, but, at present, those posts are
merely indicated by sign-posts, nothing remaining to mark
their situation. After a lapse of seventeen years it will be
easily understood, that a cursory examination of the ground,
which has undergone so many changes, will not afford any
conception of what the Bailie Guard was at the time of the
sie^e. At the commencement, the whole of the defences or
entrenchments, if they might be called such, consisted of a
shallow ditch a few feet in breadth, the actual entrenchments
were formed in great haste and by immense labour ; as the
siege progressed, the garrison were made aware of their

( 45 )

weak points and strengthened them, to the best of their
power, so that the defences became, day after da y, more and
more formidable. On the re-occupation of Lucknow, the
several earthworks forming outposts, batteries, &c, were
levelled, an embankment was raised and a ditch dug, encir-
cling the whole entrenchment, giving it the appearance of a
fortified camp ground, but entirely destroying the original
appearance of the lines of defences, and, so far, consigning
to oblivion the important reminiscences and interesting
associations which, at least in the memory of the present
generation, will remain attached, and deeply engraven on
the hearts of the survivors. Sir Colin Campbell declared the
Bailie Guard to be a " false position" and his opinion should
have been sufficient to deter the authorities from giving the
spot the appearance of a preparation for future defence.
When this error was pointed out to Lord Canning, both in a
political and military point of view, he permitted the ruins
to remain as they stood, and the whole of the enclosure to be
laid out in ornamental, floral walks. The Bailie Gfuard is
now consecrated ground. The bodies of the brave men and
women who fell during the siege and were buried there, were,
after the final relief, torn from their graves by the mutineers
and scattered about, the whole place was dug up in the mad
search for treasure, so that on the re-occupation not a trace
of the graves, and indeed hardly a vestige of the original
order of things remained. However the place is now very
prettily laid out, there is a well kept cemetery and, without
these pleasant additions to such a mournful spot, the ruins
themselves are more than sufficient to repay the visit of
the most indifferent tourist.

( 46 )

Adjoining on the south is the recently erected

•IWMAMPili MSP XTAIu

View No. 35.

The spot upon which this hospital now stands is, in
history, closely connected with the Bailie Guard ; Phillips'
house was on this very ground ; it was one of the strongest
positions, in the enemy's occupation, on the Cawnpore road
side. After the arrival of the relieving force, this formid-
able stronghold was stormed and taken, by a hundred volun-
teers, from different Corps, under command of Lieutenant
Colonel Haliburton of Her Majesty's 78th Highlanders who,
after occupying the place for two days, was killed, and the
enemy pressed, in such irresistible force, that the position had
to be abandoned and many lives were lost before that obsti-
nate little force got back into the old entrenchments.

The munificence of the Maharajah of Bulrampore is
notorious : the spot upon which so many lives were reck-
lessly lost, is now devoted by that philanthropise nobleman,
to the saving of lives. The hospital has been built not as an
object of architectural beauty to perpetuate the name of the
donor, but on the latest improved plan, having sole regard to
the comfort of the inmates ; it is not a single block, on the
old principle, but a number of detached buildings admitting
free ventilation and fresh air from any direction. A Medical-
Training College has, since the opening of the hospital, been
established, thus rendering the institution thoroughly com-
plete. This valuable addition is also endowed by Sir Drig
Bijoy Singh, K. G. C. S. I., Maharajah of Bulrampore, whose
noble and disinterested charities, must reflect the highest
credit on his name, and render his memory imperishable.

( 47 )

From the Butrampore Hospital may he seen the —

View No. 36.

This handsome bridge was sent out from England, by-
sections complete, in the year 1816, but the death of the
importer put a stop to the undertaking : Saadut Ali Khan
died about two years before its arrival, and the work long
remained suspended, because the king was reluctant to com-
plete a project commenced by his predecessor. After the
lapse of about thirty years, when Mohummed Ali Shah
came to the throne, the bridge was erected and now forms
a conspicuous ornament to the city. The British force
crossed this bridge, in the retreat from Chinhutt and, as it
could be swept by the cannon from the Residency, the persu-
ing rebels were terribly cut up in following. However,
crossing the bridge did not finish the Chinhutt disaster, for,
in passing the narrow streets on their way to the entrench-
ment, about fifty men were cut off by the rebels who fired
from the housetops and could not be got at. Had the enemy
known of the Chinhutt defeat, they might have taken posses-
sion of the Iron Bridge, and so have cut off the retreat of the
British, in which case, the Garrison, containing some four or
five hundred men, women and children would have fallen
into their hands. The bridge several times suffered a severe
battering, but appears now not at all disfigured, and it serves
as a convenient means of transit.

At the north-western extremity of the city appears the-

View No. 37.
This Bridge was built by Newab Ausuf-ood-dowlah, about
the year 1780. It is a substantial structure and has proved

( 48 )

its durability by not requiring any repairs since it was built.
It lias no particular claims to architectural beauty, but the
view from its parapets, up and down the river Goomptee, is
extremely picturesque. Many inaccuracies concerning 1 this
river have crept into history. Heber described it as a broad
and rapid river. Wordsworth, on the contrary, said it was a
narrow insignificant stream, the water of which was undrink-
able on account of the quantity of yellow earth, or mud, held
in solution : he further observed that, when sickness prevailed
in the city, the water became poisonous and a quantity of
putrid scum floated on the surface from the number of dead
bodies thrown into it. The truth is, that the Goomptee takes
its rise in the swamps of Pillibheet on the borders of Oudh • in
the flood season it is broad and rapid ; in the dry season it
sometimes almost disappears.

It is navigable, almost to its source and falls into the Ganges
near* Patna. The water is pure and, when filtered ', drinkable as
that of other rivers in India.

WCBUAM Til

OR

Miff ffWf W

View No. 38.

This Fort is adjacent to the stone bridge ; it stands on
an eminence and is supposed to be the original centre around
which the city of Lucknow sprang up. Two centuries have
elapsed since it was made into a fort, and it may now be con-
sidered as the citadel of Lucknow. After the annexation
many alterations and improvements were made, and it was
strongly garrisoned, but it never gave much promise of
strength. There is an old tradition to the effect that, he
who holds Muchee Bhawun might, in time of trouble, safely
* Between Ghazepur and Banaras.

( 49 )

reckon upon an army, as numerous as the fish in the Goom-
tee, to rally round his standard : a tradition that proved
significantly false, in the case of the British, for, instead of
the traditional army making its appearance, the troops
deserted by whole regiments at a time and not a single man
could be induced to join the ranks of the British force, after
the rebellion had once commenced.

In 1857, Muchee Bhawun was well stored with gunpow-
der, ammunition and ordnance supplies of all descriptions,
and from these, precautions had been taken to well stock the
Kesidency. After the battle of Chinhutt, it soon became
apparent that the fort was untenable ; it was therefore re-
solved to evacuate it and blow it up. This movement was
successfully accomplished on the night of the 1st July, 1857.
The small body of troops located there were quietly formed
up, a time fuze, cut for twenty minutes-was fixed in the
magazine and lighted. The party then marched off; the
fuze had been timed, so as to allow them to reach the Bailie
Guard before the explosion should take place ; it was well
timed, for exactly at the twentieth minute it did take place ;
a tremendous explosion which caused the earth to rock as
from a mighty earthquake, which shook every house to its
foundations and which struck terror and consternation into
the hearts of the rebels. The party from Muchee Bhawun
reached the Bailie Guard and joined their comrades, in safe-
ty. The falling debris must have caused much damage and
loss of life in the city, but not a soul in the Bailie Guard
was hurt. After the .re-occupation of Lucknow, Muchee
Bhawun was rebuilt ; it is now a fort of considerable strength,
armed with heavy guns, and garrisoned by both artillery and

infantry.

The gate to the west was, prior to the siege, a place of
public execution for mutineers ; on this spot, many a rebel
paid the last penalty of the law as a punishment for his per-
fidy to the British Government.
7

( 50 )

The small mosque, on the opposite side of the ruin, is of
some importance, since it marks the mound originally called
Luchman Tela : a name conferred upon it, long before Luck-
now became the capital of Oudli.

In the immediate vicinity of the Muchee Bhawan is the —

OF

Views Nos. 39 to 41.

Nawab Ausuf-ood-clowlah was the first monarch of Oudh
and he it was, who made Lucknow the capital. The great
Imambara was built by him ; and it is justly pronounced to
be the architectural gem of the city, its minarets are the
tallest and handsomest, and it is the most magnificent and
massive structure in Lucknow. The central hall is supposed
to be the largest in the world, but the most remarkable feature
of the building is, that it contains no wood- work of any kind,
being built throughout, exclusively of solid masonry. It is
said to have cost a crore of rupees, or one million sterling, a
doubtful tradition, unless it was originally embellished with
precious stones, of which however there is now no trace.
According to Elliott, the story is, that Nawab Ausuf-ood-
dowlah invited architects, throughout India, to submit plans,
to be subjected to competition, for an- Imambara, stipulating
that the building should not be a copy of any other building,
and that, in beauty and magnificence, it should surpass any-
thing of the kind that ever was in existence. The name
given to the successful competition is Kifait-ool-lah and, on
viewing the structure, it must be admitted that his concep-
tion has produced a thing of beauty and a stupendous solidity,
or massive grandeur, in happy keeping with the purpose for

( 51 )

which it was intended, that is, a mausoleum for the interment
of the King himself. The building will hardly bear com-
parison with the Taj at Agra, the designs being of quite a di-
verse order, the one is remarkable for the beauty of its configu-
ration and intricacy of its embellishments, the other for the
solemnity of its contour and colossal grandeur of its prepara-
tions ; both are, however, as superb curiosities, equally worthy
of a visit.

It has been the custom of Molmmedan potentates to
provide, before their death, for the maintenance of the
Imambaras, that were to contain their remains, by a rich
endowment, but in this case, Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah seems
to have neglected this important matter, hence the splendid
building is now used as a gun-shed and ordnance store, a
purpose that its illustrious founder certainly never anticipated
it would be put to. It now stands as a monument of the
utter futility of monarchs attempting to perpetuate their
names and continue, after their demise, a sort of travestie of
the courtly extravagance that caused them to be flattered
and worshipped in life.

Leaving the Great Imambara, on the way to the next Imam-
bar a, an archway has to be passed. This is e tiled the —

View No. 42.
This is supposed to be a model, or copied reconstruction,
of an archway now standing in one of the principal streets of
Constantinople, as to whether it is such, is doubtful : it was
built by Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah, and it is possible that
monarch may have been the victim of a deception ; however,
it was represented to him as such, and anything coming, or
professing to come, from the capital of the Sultan, the head
of the faith, must needs be a valuable acquisition. Hence it

( 52 )

was erected, and whether it is or is not what is set forth, it
is an ornament to one of the broadest and most fashionable
streets in Lucknow. It has no especial historical associations
connected with it.

To the right is the Dowlat Khana, the Palace of Nawab
Ausuf-ood-dowlah ; it comprises many buildings which after
the annexation were used by the British as ordnance and
commissariat stores ; on the breaking out of the rebellion of
1857 they were abandoned.

Proceeding to the end of the grand street, a Utile beyond is
seen the entrance to the —

M§SMI-ABA1 XMAMBAMu

Views Nos. 43 to 46.
The entrance is on the left ; a huge archway guarded
by two of the most frightful looking sphynxes imaginable ;
within the enclosure is, " The Imambara," where lie the re-
mains of Mohumed Ali Shah, King of Gudh, and grandfather
of the present ex-King, Wajid Ali Shah ; the remains of
Mohumed Ali Shah's mother lie by his side, the tombs of both
are overshadowed by a canopy of velvet, fringed with gold
and precious stones, the whole interior of the Imambara is
crammed with gigantic chandeliers ; candelabra, in crystal,
springs from the floor, to the height of twelve feet, branching
out in all directions, pier-glasses ten feet high stand against
the polished marble walls, the pavement, of porphyry and
precious stones, is so highly polished that it is almost danger-
ous to tread upon it, floor, walls, pillars, all are glittering
like glass and reflecting floods of light, so that the mind is
bewildered in contemplating such an extraordinary scene
surpassing, by far, the stories of the Arabian Nights, and
leaving deep in the shade, any accounts of Oriental luxury
or grandeur that have ever been recounted, or even exa«--

( 53 )

gerated. by the moat enthusiastic travellers. On the anniver-
sary of the King's demise, every year, the Imambara, interior
and exterior, the mausoleums of the two Queens, to the right
and left, the ornamental garden, tanks, miniature bridges,
walls, the principal archway, the. buildings outside for the
whole distance, to the right and left between the two great
archways, the archways themselves with their lofty and gi-
gantic superstructures, the whole of the buildings outside
those archways, and the roads leading to them for half a mile
each way are all profusely illuminated : millions of lamps are
brought into requisition and placed in all possible and in ap-
parently impossible places, towers, kiosks, minarets are all in a
blaze, every nook and corner is resplendent ; in the garden, the
reflections of myriads of lights are sparkling and scintillating
in the water, and the tout-ensemble, as viewed from the terraces
opposite the Imambara, is so dazzling and fairy-like, that the
visitor lost in admiration, imagines himself in the midst of a
scene produced by some genius of a supernatural world. At
a given signal, a display of fire-works commences, and lasts
for more than an hour, an immense number of fire-balloons
are sent up, and then the gates are thrown open for the crowds
of visitors to enter the Imambara, which, as already described,
presents to view, the ne plus ultra of splendour, it is literally
one mass of gold, silver, crystal and fire. These entertain-
ments are continued for several nights at a cost of about
twelve thousand rupees a night, and no doubt the reader will
ask, Where does all this money come from ? The question
is easily answered. This Imambara, when built by King
Mohumed Ali, was endowed with twelve lacs of rupees;
during his lifetime he added several large sums to the fund
and furnished the building with gold and silver plate, jewels,
precious stones and sumptuous furniture, to a fabulous
amount ; at length, after appointing trustees and an agent,
he died and, as he had intended, his remains were interred
in this Imambara. The funds afterwards increased until the

( 54 )

whole amount, vested in Government four percent, securities,
amounted to thirty-eight lacs, fifty thousand and five hundred
rupees, or £38,50,500. It will be seen therefore that Hossain-
abad, is very richly endowed, and besides, there are other
sources of income, rent of buildings, offerings by rich pilgrims,
which amount to a large sum, for Hossain-abad is one of the
most brilliant creations ever conceived by the Kings of Oudh,
and the Imambara is held especially sacred by all true
Mohumedans.

A few words, respecting the fate of the Imambara during
the rebellion of 1857-58, will be found by no means uninter-
esting here. Prior to his death, King Mohumed Ali executed
a deed appointing Nawabs Rafeek-ood-dowlah and Azeem-ool-
lah Khan as trustees, and the notorious rebel Shurf-ood-
dowlah as agent of the Hossainabad endowment ; those three
persons seemed to have managed the trust very well, at least
for a time, but on the re-occupation of Lucknow, after the
rebellion bad been stamped out, a number of persons who
were entitled to stipends from the endowment, complained to
Government that they could not get their money ; this led
to an enquiry, the result of which was, that it was found that
the two trustees and the agent had disappeared ; the Imam-
bara had been plundered of all its valuable contents, and the
whole of the Government securities, to the amount of thirty-
eight and three quarter lacs of rupees had been stolen from
the iron safe in which they had been kept in a room attached
to the Imambara. Further enquiries discovered Shurf-ood-
dowlah, the agent, mortally wounded, his dejDOsition was
taken on his death-bed. Eventually one of the trustees,
Nawab Rafeek-ood-dowlah, surrendered himself, he was an
imbecile old man, stone-blind, the other trustee, Azim-ool-
lah Khan was dead, but his son Ali Buksh Khan represented
him. A special court was improvised and the trustees were
tried, the trial lasting over a year. The facts elicited were,
that on the breaking out of the rebellion, Shurf-ood-dowlah

( 55 )

the agent, joined the rebel cause and took rank as Grand
Vazeer or Prime Minister in the Rebel Durbar ; in this posi-
tion he dispossessed the trustees and assumed sole control
over the whole trust. > The rebel government running short
of funds, the whole of the gold and silver plate was taken
from the Imambara, by order of Prince Birjeesh Kudr, the
son of the rebel, Begum Huzrut Mahal, was sent to the mint
and coined into money to pay the rebel troops. The trustees,
according to their account, were coerced into giving up their
seals, under the threat of murdering the son of the elder
trustee, the Government securities were taken, and the sinews
of war enhanced, by selling some of them to bankers at the
rate of 20 per cent, of their actual value. The remainder of
the securities fell into the possession of the rebel Begum and
are probably in her possession still. The old trustees were
deposed and in their place, the present trustees Nawab
Mohsun-ood-dowlah Bahadoor, K. C. S. I., and Nawab Moom-
taz-ood-dowlah Bahadoor, were appointed, and in place of
Shurf-ood-dowlah, Moonshee Ramprashad was appointed
as agent. Government granted duplicates of the missing
securities, and now the trust seems to be managed on a very
grand and extravagant scale, none the worse for its misfor-
tunes.

Returning from Hossain-abad, on the right is the
" chowk" or great Bazar : it extends from north to south for
about a mile and is entered, at both ends, by an arched
gateway. The north gate is called the " Gol Durwaza,"
the south is known as the " Akbari Durwaza." The latter
is said to have been in existence when the Emperor Akbar,
of Delhi passed through Lucknow, and on his return, after
subduing Nepal, he ordered the arch to be repaired and
gave it his name. The chowk is a busy street, but so narrow
that a carriage cannot turn in it, hence, none are allowed to
enter, but elephants may be seen passing at all hours of the
day.

( 56 )

Leaving the chowk and proceeding towards the Chutter Mun-
sil, on the opposite side of the river, is seen the —

BXLAEAX K©TM!t»

View No. 47.

This building was erected by Nawab Saadut Ali Khan,
there were a number of buildings in connection, but all have
been demolished, leaving the present house standing alone.
As will be seen from the view, it is a rather handsome build-
ing, in the Italian style, three stories high. The King used
to retire to this house, after concluding his duties in the Lai
Baradurree, so that he might rest there without being dis-
turbed. At that time there were three water-temples standing
one on each side, and one in the centre of the river. The
King used to sit in the centre one, in the cool of the evening
and fish with rod and line ; the whole three have been de-
scribed as elegantly ornamental structures. Those on the
banks have disappeared entirely, and all that remains of the
centre one, is the masonry pier upon which it stood.

The Dilaram Kothee, standing as it does, with the
river in front and the magnificent Chutter Munzil and the
group of elegant buildings on the opposite shore, while the
back-ground is filled with groves of trees, a more picturesque
and even romantic situation could hardly be conceived.

It may be as well to mention here that, in 1857, the
rebels had erected a battery, armed with heavy guns, imme-
diately in rear of the house, and those guns dealt terrible
destruction in the besieged Bailie Gruard ; until Sir Colin
Campbell arrived. The battery was then stormed, the guns
captured by Sir Colin's Higlanders, and the brave crew of
H. M.'s S. S. Shannon, who gave no quarter to the mutineers
found in possession. The house is now occupied by private
persons.

( 57 )

Returning from the Clutter Munzil towards the city, along
the Cawnpore road, on the right hand side is found a very hand-
some mosque, called —

iwmiAH huzrut abbas.

View No. 48.

This mosque was built by Nawab Saadut AH Khan,
whether for any especial purpose, history does not show.
However it is now held sacred by the Shea sect of Mohume-
dans who resort there, in considerable numbers, to worship.
Tradition states the reason of this to have been, that the
Nawab Saadut Ali Khan, when visiting the mosque, on one
occasion either fell into a trance, or received a sudden
awakening. He was, previous to this circumstance, execrated
as a tyrant, but he afterwards became a kind, gracious and
benign monarch, reigning successfully to the end of his
days.

The building being kept in good repair, preserves its
original beauty, and is an object that would well repay a
visit.

Near to this is another Mohumedan shrine known as —

View No. 49.

This was built by Shurf-ood-dowlah one of the Deputy
Vazeers, in commemoration of his conversion from Hinduism
to Mohumedanism. The shrine is interesting, if the story is
true, which declares it to be an exact copy of the tomb of the
two Imams, Moosa Kazim and Razza Kazim.

These places are well worth a visit when they are
illuminated at the celebration of the Mohurrum festival.
The sight is then very grand, in fact, defying description.

( 57 )

Returning from the Clutter Munzil towards the city, along
the Cawnpore road, on the right hand side is found a very hand-
some mosque, called —

iwmiAH HWimtrr abbas.

View No. 48.

This mosque was built by Nawab Saadut Ali Khan,
whether for any especial purpose, history does not show.
However it is now held sacred by the Shea sect of Mohume-
dans who resort there, in considerable numbers, to worship.
Tradition states the reason of this to have been, that the
Nawab Saadut Ali Khan, when visiting the mosque, on one
occasion either fell into a trance, or received a sudden
awakening. He was, previous to this circumstance, execrated
as a tyrant, but he afterwards became a kind, gracious and
benign monarch, reigning successfully to the end of his
days.

The building being kept in good repair, preserves its
original beauty, and is an object that would well repay a
visit.

Near to this is another Mohumedan shrine known as —

View No. 49.

This was built by Shurf-ood-dowlah one of the Deputy
Vazeers, in commemoration of his conversion from Hinduism
to Mohumedanism. The shrine is interesting, if the story is
true, which declares it to be an exact copy of the tomb of the
two Imams, Moosa Kazim and Razza Kazim.

These places are well worth a visit when they are
illuminated at the celebration of the Mohurrum festival.
The sight is then very grand, in fact, defying description.

{ 56 )

At some distance along the same road is the —

' ' - XmBUULA TAL KAT ORA. .

View No. 50.

This is the place the Mohumedans, of the Shea sect,
bury their tazzias, at the Mohurrum festival. The tazzias
are models of the tombs of Mohumed's grandsons at Mecca,
the saints, warriors and heroes ; they are lightly constructed of
bamboo, paper tinsel, talc, &c. The Mohumedans are cele-
brated for hero-worship, and on this festival everything is
done, whether fighting, fasting, feasting or thumping their
breasts, in honour of the two brothers Hussan and Hussain,
sacred in Mohumedan history, hence the place where the
tazzias are buried is sacred also. On the occasion of these
interments, thousands of people make it a holiday, forming
pic-nic parties along the roads where the tazzias have to pass
and the crowds of sight-seers are immense. To the general
tourist, in all probability, these thousands of tinsel proces-
sions, continuing from morning till night, would be some-
thing more than mere curiosities ; on festival days then, the
Kurbulla Tal Katora is worth visiting ; there may not be
anything particular to attract visitors at any other time.
The history of these festivals and of the persons whose names
are repeated, would be too lengthy to insert in this volume.
The Guide is therefore respectfully brought to a close with
the remark, that although every place of note may not have
been inserted, I think if the traveller visits all that are de-
scribed, both pictorially, and literally, he will be well satisfied
with what he has seen and what he possesses, in writing and
delineation, regarding the City of Lucknow and its architec-
tural beauties and wonders.

FINIS.

2 — General Havelock's tomb.

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6— La. Martimere.

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11— Christ's Church.

Memorial of Massacre of European Captives.

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26— Moorslmd Zadi's Tomb.

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44 — The stone biulding to the Principal biulding of
the Hosenabad Imambara,

45 — The opposite biuldiug of the Hosenabad Imam-bara.

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