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A HANDBOOK

THE JAPANESE EMPIRE

Adveiiisements.

•k^

Sf^NTENDING assurers, before doing so, are iii-
Ws vited to send to the EQUITABLE LIFE
^m ASSURANCE SOCIETY OF THE UNI-

■^^ TED STATES for illustrations of the Best
^f^ Policies issued by the Strongest Life Office
in the world, whose surplus exceeds Twelve Millions
Sterling in excess of all liabilities. The assets
exceed°£ 56,000,000 Sterling.

Manager, Hongkong.

Agents, Nagasaki.

J-. HI. B^THIC^^TE,

Acting District Manager for Japan.

No. lO, Bund, Yokohama.

Agents, Kobe.

J-. T. H:^iynii-.Tonsr,

General Manager for the East.

OAMOl 3GIJJ0 OMIAVUQNB OOOAQl

I^-^^

HANDBOOK FOR TlUVELLEliS

J A P A ?

INCLUDING THE WHOLE EMPIRE FROM YEZO TO

FORMOSA

BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN, F. R. G. S.

EMEEITUS TROFESSOK OF JAPANESE AXD PHTLOI.OGY IX THl" IMPKRIAL UNIVERSITY OF TOKYO

AND

W. B. MASON

COEKESPO.NDIKG MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND LATE O^ THE
IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS Q

7^1

With Tweiity-eiglit laps ai^d Flaijs and Numerous lUustratioijs

SIXTH EDITION, REVISED

LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, Albemakle Stf.eet

ir^^} KELLY & AVALSH, LiMxxK. {fZ^ll
1 9 O 1

[ALL RIGHTS BESER VED]

rRtSTKO BV lHl.:SHfEI«HA, TOKYO.

PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION.

This edition has been revised throughout with minute
care, — as well the beaten as the unbeaten tracks. Several
ol the Northern routes, which had been affected by the
recent extension of the railway system, have been re-
arranged, and a similar remark applies to some of those
in the Island of Shikoku.

The compilers gladly avail themselves of this op-
portunity to express their thanks to various correspondents
who have kindly supplied information. Further correc-
tions or suggestions will be welcome at any time,

Tokyo, October, 1900.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Page.

1. General ; Books on Japan ;
Maps 1

2. Steam Communication 2

3. Custom-HoTise 3

4. Public Holidays 3

5. Giiides 4

6. Posts ; Telegraphs ; BarLks 4

7. Currency 4

8. Weights and Measvires ... 5

9. Inns ; Travelling Exjpenses 6

10. Climate ; Dress ; Time of
Visit ., 8

11. Provisions 9

12. Means of Locomotion ;
Luggage 10

13. Where to Go and What to
See 11

14. Purchases ; Objects of Art 12

Page.

15. Shipment of Goods 13

16. Shooting 13

17. Fishing 14

18. Miscellaneous Hints 15

19. Language 17

20. The Shinto Religion 37

21. Japanese Buddhism 41

22. List of Gods and God-
desses 44

23. Christian Mission Stations 57

24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 58

25. Chronological Tables 60

26. Celebrated Personages 70

27. Population of the Chief
Cities 88

28. Outline Tours 89

Glossary of Japanese Words ... 93

ROUTES.

Section I. — Eastern Japan.

KouTE. Page.

1. Yokohama 99

2. Excursions from Yokohama 101

3. From Yokohama to Tokyo 110

4. Tokyo Ill

5. Excursions from Tokyd . . . 140

6. Miyanoshita and Hakone... 150

7. The Peninsula of Izu 160

8. Tries Island 165

9. Fuji and Neighbourhood... 167

10. Round the Base of Fuji to
Lake Sh5ji and Kami-Ide 175

11. Chichibu and the Temple

of Mitsumine ."; 176

12. Tokyo-TakasaM-Karuizawa
Railway ; Myogi-san 178

13. Karuizawa, and Asama-
yama 181

KoUXE.

Page.

14. Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh-
bourhood 186

15. The Shimizu-goe and
Milvuni-toge 193

16. The Oyama-Maebashi Rail-
way 195

17. Nikko and Chuzenji 196

18. From Chuzenji to Ikao

over the Konsei-toge 213

From Nikko to Ikao by
the Valley of the Watarase-

gawa ; Ashio 215

Shiobara and Nasu 218

The Provinces of Shimosa,
Kazusa, and Boshu 220

22. The East Coast Railway ... 227

20.
2J.

viii. Contents.

Section IL — Routes Connecting Tokyo w ith Kyoto.

BOTTTK. FAGB.

23. The Tokaido 233

24. The Nakasendo 248

BouxE. Page.
25. The Steamer Voyage from
Yokohama to Kobe 254

Section III. — Central Japan.

26,

27.
28.
29.

30.
31.

32.
33.
34.

The Karuizawa-Naoetsu-

Niigata Kail way 259

Ways to and from Kofu ... 268
Valley of the Hayakawa . . . 279
Mountains between the
Fujikawa and the Tenryu-

gawa 281

Eapidsof the Tenryu-gawa 285
Mountains of Hida and

Etchu 287

The Shrines of Ise 302

Kobe and Neighbourhood 314
Osaka and Neighbourhood 319

35. Kyoto and Neighbourhood 323
30. Nara and Neighbourhood 356

37. Through Yamato to Koya-
san and Wakayama in
Kishu 365

38. Through Kumano to Ise 383

39. Minor Itinei'aries in the
Province of Kishu 393

40. LakeBiwa 394

41. From Lake Biwa to Ama-
no-Hashidate, Yushima,
and the Mines of Ikuno ... 399

42. From Tsuruga to Naoetsu 405

Section IV. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea.

43. The Inland Sea and Chief
Places on and near its
Northern Shore 411

44. The Island of Awaji 424

45. Matsue and the Temples of
Izumo 429

46. The Oki Islands 432

Section Y. — The Island of Shieoku.

47. North-Eastern Shikoku 437

48. North- Western Shikoku ... 444

49. Valley of the Yoshino-gawa 44S

50. Western Shikoku from Ma-
tsuyama to Uwajima 451

51. Ways to and from KiJchi... 452

Section VI. — The Island of Kyushu.

52. Nagasaki and Neighbour-
hood 459

53. Unzen and the Shimabara
Peninsula 463

54. From Nagasaki across
Central Kyushu to the
North-East Coast 466

55. Ascent of Sobo-san 472

56. From Nagasaki to Mojl ... 473

57. North- Western Kyushu ... 476

58. Hiko-san and Y'abakei 480

59. From Kiuuamoto to Nobe-
oka and Oita 482

60. South-Eas tern Kyushu 484

61. Kagoshima and NeigbboTir-
hood ; Volcanoes of Sakura-
jima, Kirishima, and Kai-
mon-dake 484

G2. From Kagoshima to Yatsu-
shiro via the Eapids of the
Kumagawa 488

63. Through Satsuma and
Amakusa to Nagasaki 489

64. The Gota Islands, Tsu-
shima, and Ftisan 400

Contents.

IX.

Section VII. — Northern Japan.

Route. Page.

G5. The Northern Kail way 495

66. Wakamatsu and Bandai-
san 504

67. From Wakamatsn to
Nikk5 by the Valley of the
Kinugawa 507

68. From Niigata to "Waka-
matsu 508

69. From Inawashiro to Yone-
zawa Tia Bandai-san and
the Hibara-toge 508

70. Matsushima and Kinkwa-
zan 509

Route. Page.

71. From Sendai to Yamagata 513

72. From Fukushima to Yone-
zawa, Y'amagata, and Akita 513

73. Other Ways to Akita 517

74. From Yonezawa by the
Miomote Valley to Mura-
kami and Tsuru-ga-oka ... 517

75. From Y^'onezawa to the Sea
of Japan, and up the N. W.
Coast to Aomori 519

76. The North-East Coast 523

77. LakeTowada 525

78. The Tonami Peninsula 525

Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo.

79. Hakodate and Neighbour-
hood 529

80. Excursions from Hako-
date 531

81. From Hakodate to Otaru,
Sapporo and Muroran ;

Volcano Bay 534

82. The South-East Coast and
the Southern Kuriles 538

83. From Kushiro to Abashiri
and Northern Yezo 540

Section IX. — Luchd and Formosa.
84. The Luchu Islands 543 I 85. Formosa 544

CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS 551

INDEX 553

MAPS AND PLANS.

1. Japan ^^ P^^^^* ""^ «°^^'*-

2. Key to Sectional Maps to face title-page.

3. Distribution of Eainfall to face p. 9

4. Shinto Temple of Izumo " I'-

5. Buddliist Temple of Ikegami » P-

6. Eastern Japan " P'

7. Neighbourhood of Yokohama " P- ^^

8. City of Tokyo » P- ^^^

•). Temples and Tombs of Shiba on p. 118

10. Tokyo and Neighbourhood to face p. 141

11. Fuji and the Hakone District > P- 151

12. Ikao and Kusatsu » P' ^^^

13 Nikko and Neighbourhood » p. 197

14 Nikko Temples across p. 199

15. Central Japan to face p. 231

16.K5fu " ^-Z

17. Geku Temple atlse o^ P- ^^^

18. Osaka and K6be to face p. 315

r. -.r -. .. „ p. 323

19. Kyoto " '■

20. Western Japan and the Inland Sea » P- 409

,, ,,. .. on p. 421

21. Miyajima ^

,^ _ - , - to face p. 457

22. Kyushu ^

23. Neighbourhood of Nagasaki » P- ^^^

24. Kumamoto Castle o^ P- ^^'^

25. Northern Japan to face p. 493

26. Matsushima " P' ^""^

27. South- Western Yezo " P- ^■^'

28. Formosa " P'

Handbook for Travellers

JAPAN.

INTRODUCTION.

Page

1. General ; Books on Japan ;
Maps 1

2. Steam Communication .... 2

3. Cixstom-Hoiise 3

4. Public Holidays 3

5. Guides 4

G. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. . 4

7. Currency 4

8. Weights and Measures .... 5

9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses. 6

10. CHmate ; Dress ; Time of
Visit 8

11 . Provisions 9

12. Means of Locomotion ;
Luggage 10

13. Where to Go and What to
See 11

Page

14. Purchases ; Objects of Art. 12

15. Shipment of Goods 13

16. Shooting 13

17. Fishing 14

18. Miscellaneous Hints 15

19. Language 17

20. The Shinto Keligion 37

21. Japanese Buddhism 41

22. List of Gods 44

23. Christian Alission Stations. 57

24. Outline of Japanese His-
tory 58

25. Chronological Tables 60

26. Celebrated Personages 70

27. Population 88

28. Outline Tours 89

Glossary of Japanese Words . . 93

1.— Geneeal ; Books on Japan ; Maps.

Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer
world, was burst open by the American expedition in 1853-4 under the
command of Commodore Perry. Maldng a virtue of necessity, her rulers
soon determined to Europeanise the country, as the best means of pre-
serving its independence. Shiiw were bought, foreign naval and military
instructors engaged, feudahsm replaced by a centralised autocracy,
education reorganised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts,
telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners,
European amusements adopted, Buddhism disestablished, Christianity—
if not encouraged at least no longer j)ersecuted. In short, in every
sphere of activity, the old order gave way to the new. The change has
been specially marked since the successful war %vdth China in 1894-5, the
prestige then acquired having given an extraordinary imjietus to trade

2 Introduction : — Books. Steam Communication.

and industry on Euroijean lines. But even Japan, great as is the power
of imitation and assimilation possessed by her people, has not been able
completely to transform her whole material, mental, and social being
within the limits of a single lifetime. Fortunately for the curious
observer, she continues in a state of transition, -less Japanese and more
European day by day, it is true, but still retaining characteristics of her
own, especially in the dress, manners, and behefs of the lower classes.
Those who wish to see as much as possible of the old order of things
should come quickly.

It is impossible, within the limits of this Introduction, to enter into
those details of race, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which,
combmed with the • influence exercised more recently by Europe and
America, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires
to travel intelligently— to do more than merely wander from hotel to
hotel— may be referred to a series of sketches entitled Thmijs Japanese
where, if he wishes for still more detailed information, he will lind
references to the original authorities in each special branch. Of religion
alone a short account seemed indispensable, as the temples are among
Japan's cliief sights. An outhne of history and lists of gods and celebrat"-
ed personages have been added, in order to assist the traveller to thread
his way through the maze of proper names with which he will be con-
fronted. In Japan, more than in any Western country, is it necessary
to take some trouble in order to master such preliminary information ;
for whereas England, France, Italy, Germany, and the rest, all resemble
each other in then: main features, because all have alike grown up in a
culture f undamentaUy identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, there-
fore, who should essay to travel ■\\'ithout ha\dng learnt a word concerning
Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous.
We would also specially recommend Griffis's Mikado's Empire and Rein's
Japan and The Imlustries of Japan, as books which it would be profitable
to read on the way out. Eein's works are, it is true, fitted only for the
serious student,^ who is prepared for hard words and technical details ;
but The Mikado's Empiye is calculated to appeal to all classes of readers.
Of books on Japanese art, Anderson's Pictorial Arts of Japan is by far
the best ; but it is expensive and bulky. Aston's short History of Japanese
Litemiure deserves particular mention. Morse's Japanese Homes is an
excellent description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all the
articles connected with their daily life. Lafcadio Hearn, in his Glimpses
of Unfamiiiur Japayi and other subsequent worlis, treats with intimate
knowledge and sympathy of their manners, customs, and beliefs. In any
case, a supply of books of some sort is indispensable to help to while
away the fi-equent rainy days.

The elaborate series of maps in course of publication for many
years past at the Imperial Geological Office, may be obtained of Messrs.
KeUy and Walsh, at Yokohama.

2. — Steam Communication.

Japan may be reached by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers
fi'om Vancouver in 13 days ; by the Pacific Mail or the Occidental and
Oriental Company's steamers fi-om 8an Francisco in about IG days, or 18
days if Honolulu be touched at; by the Northern Pacific Company's
steamers from Tacoma in about IG days ; or else from Europe through the
Suez Canal by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London or
Brindisi, by the Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the

Custom- Houae. Fublic Holidays. 3

Norddeutscher Lloyd from Bremerliaven, Soiatliampton, or Genoa in about
40 days. There are also outside steamers from London, notably tliose
of the " Glen " and " Shire " Lines. Yokohama is the connecting port of
all the above.

The principal Japanese Company is the Nippoyi Yusen Kicai.^h'a
(Japan Mail Steamship Company), which runs steamers from Yokohama
almost daily to Kobe, weekly to Nagasaki and Shanghai, every third day
to Hakodate and Otaru ; from Kobe weeldy to Sakai, Tsuruga, Niigata,
and Hakodate, occupying altogether about sis weeks on the round trip ;
also at longer intervals to Luchu and Formosa, and to the Bonin Islands.
The Company also has regular lines to the piincipal Korean and Chinese
ports and to Vladivostock in Siberia, also to Australia via Manila, and to
Europe. Numerous smaller companies run steamers to the Inland Sea
ports and other points on the coast, and also on some of the larger rivers
and lakes ; but they are apt to be extremely unpunctual and dilatory.

Boats — Icnown in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the har-
bours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from ship
to shore, or vice versa, is fi'om 15 to 25 sen per head. Steam launches
from the hotels are in attendance at the larger places.

3. CUSTOM-HOITSE.

strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at the
Custom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open
up everything freely. Tobacco, liquors, cameras, bicycles, sporting gear,
and most other articles, except ordinary personal effects, are liable to
duty.

4. — Public Holidays.

The Custom-House and other public offices observe the following
holidays :—

Jan. 1 )

„ 3> New Y'ear Holidays {Shd-gicatsu).

„ 5)

„ 30. Anniversary of death of K5mei Tenn5. the late Emperor.
Feb. 11. Accession of Jimmvi Tenn5 in 660 B.C., and Promulgation

of Constitution in 1889 (Kirien-setsu).
Mar. 20. Spring Equinox ( Shunki Korei-sai).
April 3. Death of Jimmu Tenno.
Sept. 23. Autiimn Equinox {Shiiki- Korei-sai).
Oct. 17. Harvest Thanksgiving to the Deities of Ise (Shinjo-sai, also

called Kan-name Matsuri.)
Nov. 3. Emperor's Birthday ( Tencho-setsu).

„ 23. Second Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai or Nil-name Matsuri).

The foreign banks, besides observing Christmas, New Year, and some
of the Japanese holidays, keep the Chinese New Year, the German Em-
peror's birthday on the 27th January, the Queen's birthday on the 24th
May, and the American and French national anniversaries (4th and 14th
July).

4 Introduction: — Guides. Posts. Telegraph.-^. Money.

5. — Guides.

Gnides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Asso-
ciation (Kaiyu-shn) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo and
Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at present (1901)) is
as follows : — 2h yen i)er day for a piirty of one or two tourists ; over two,
50 sen added lor each tourist. In all cases the guide's travelling and hotel
expenses must be paid by hLs employer.

A guide is an absolute necessity to persons unacquainted with the
language. Those kno\\'ing a little Japanese may feel themselves more
their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or " boy," also able to cook,
and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor opinions
of his own as to the route which it will be best to take.

Ladies may sometimes find it convenient to hii-e a Japanese maid
(genendly called amah by the foreign residents). Some of them speak
English and act more or less as guides.

G. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks.

The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent.
Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the different
stages of a journey. The Post-Office Order system is thoroughly efficient,
and may be found useful by travellers who wish to avoid carrying about
much money.

In most towns of any size, the Post and Telegraph Offices are
combined. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost

5 sen per word, with a minimum charge of 'lb sen, addresses being charged
for. A telegram in Japanese of 15 Kana characters costs 21) sen, the
address of the receiver not being charged for. The foreign resiilents
often avail themselves of this means of communication. Telephone
Exchanges have been established in some of the large towns.

There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches or agencies of
the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank of India, Austra-
lia, and China, and the National Bank of China. The facilities offered by
such large Japanese Banks as the ilitsui, Mitsubishi, and the Specie
Bank (S/wkin Giiikd), which are conducted on foreign lines, may also be
availed of at Tokyo and in the interior.

7. — Currency.

The values are decimal, with the yen, equivalent to about two shillings
English, or 50 cents U. S. gold, as the unit. One yen contains 100 sen,
one sen contains 10 rin. The currency consists of gold, which is practical-
ly never seen ; of silver pieces of 1 yen, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen ;
of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of cop^ier pieces of 2 sen, 1 sen, and 5 rin, and of
paper money worth 1 yen, 5 yen, 10 yen, and various larger sums.

It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior
portabUity, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the
interior than silver or gold. One of the first things the tourist should do
is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values
above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of higher
denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change except in
the big towns.

Measures. Distances.

8. — Weights and Measures,

Distances are reckoned hj ri find cho, 36 c/i« going to the ri.* One
n is equal to 2.44 English statute niiles7or, roughly speaking, to a trifle
Tinder 2^ miles. One eho is equal to 358 English feet, or ^^ of a mile.
The c/io is subdivided into GO /<-en (1 ken = Gtt. approximately), and the
ken into 6 fthaku (1 shaku = 1 ft. approximately). The subdivisions of the
shaku follow the decimal system. Throughout this work, the distances are
given in ri and cho as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan drop very
soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt
in any case, as coolies, jinrikisha-men, and others know nothing of
English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit of
certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who mis-
translate the word ri by " mile." The following table, borrowed from
Dr. N. Whitney, will be found useful : —

EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE RI AND CHO IN ENGLISH MILES.

Japanese Ri.

Miles

2.44

24.40

26.84

29.28

31.72

3416

3P.C0

39.04

41.49

43.93

46.37

4.8S

48.81

51.25

53. 6 J

56.13

58.57

61.01

Ci.45

65.89

C8.33

70.77

7.3-2

73.20

75 65

78.09

80.5:i

82.97

85.41

87.85

90.29

92.73

95.17

9.7C

97.61

100 05

102.49

104.93

107.37

109.81

112.25

114.69

117 13

119.58

12 2h

122.01

124 4G

126.9U

129.34

131.78

134.21

136.615

139.10

141.54

143.98

14.64

146.43

148.87

151.31

153.75

156 19

1.58.6!

161.07

163.51

165.95

168.39

17. U«

170 83

173.27

175.71

178 15

180.59

183.03

185.47

187.91

190.35

192.79

19 52

195.23

197 67

200.11

202 55

205.00

207.44

209.88

212.32

214.76

217.20

21.96

219. G4

222.08

224.52

226.96

229.40

2J1.84

234.28

236.72

239.1(5

211.60

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Bliles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

0.07

0.47

0.88

1.29

1.69

2 10

0.14

0.54

0 95

1.36

1.76

2.17

0.20

0 61

1.02

1.42

1.83

2 24

0.27

0 68

1.08

1.49

1.90

2.30

0.34

0.75

1.15

1.56

1.97

2.37

0.41

0.81

1.22

1.63

2.03

2.44

Long Measure {Kane). IQ hu = l sun (often translated "inch," but =
1.19 inch of English measure); 10sfm = l shaku (nearly 1 foot English,
actually 11.93 inches) ; G shaku = l ken; 10 shaku = 1 jo. The jo, equal to
nearly 10 English feet, is the unit commonly employed in measuring
heights and depths.

Cloth Measure {Kvjira). 10 6u = l sun; 10 sun = l shaku, or nearly 12
inches; 10 shaku = 1 jo. In this measure, the s/iafctt is J longer than in
Long Measure.

Land Measure ( Tsubo). The unit is the tsubo, nearly equivalent to 4
square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsubo.

1 cho = 2^ acres, and 1 ri (square) = 6 sq. miles, approximately.

* Some monntain districts have a longer r» of 50 cho.

6 Introduclion: — Inns. Travelling Expenses.

Measure of Capacity. 10 <7o = l sho, whicli contains about 108^ cubic
inches, and is a little larger than 1 J quart ; 10 slid = 1 to, nearly half a
bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to = 1 koku, which is a fraction less
than 5 English bushels.

Weights. The kin is about 1 J lb. avoirdupois ; 1 lb. avoir. = about 120
rnomme. The kioan is equal to 1,000 momme {Q\ kin, or a little over 8J- lbs.).

9. — Inns ; Tbavelling Expenses.

The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best
accessible information, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name
of a house specially worthy of mention. A^Tiat is termed hatago at a
Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single
charge is usually made. This varies according to the style and standing
of the establishment, and ranges at present from 75 sen to '2J yen per head.
Scanty as the entertiiinment may often appear to one fii-esh ftom the
innumerable luxuries of a comfortable European hotel, it should be
remembered that such things as fine lacquer and porcelain utensils,
painted screens, and silk quilts, to say nothing of numerous well-dressed
attendants, are expensive items to mine host, and are charged for ac-
corflingly. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to
the meuls supplied is considered an extra. There is no charge for firing,
lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content vdth
what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is
usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or else in pay-
ing one's account just before leaving, to make a present, known as ohadai
or " tea-money." The latter course is recommended. With Japanese
travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, tlie
amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the
quality of the accommodxition. Generally they are very liberal. The
foreign tourist stands on a somewhat different footing, and there are
seldom gradations of rank to be considered in his case. As a fan and
practical solution of a vexed question, those who travel a la japoiutise and
who are charged in accordance with the native scale, may be recommend-
ed to make the amount of their chadai vary from 50 sen to 2 yen per
night, according to the style of the establishment. If two or more
persons are traveUing together, the chadai is increased, say, to one-half
more for two, and double for three persons. In some localities, especially
at bathing resorts, there is a fixed rate for the accommodation of foreign-
ers,— IJ yen or 2 yen per night for room and bedding only, any food that
may be ordered being charged for separately. In such places, which have
come under European influence, it is usual to give a small gratuity to the
servants in adchtion to the chadai, whereas in the old-fashioned inns such
presents are not looked for.

It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for
accommodation and for jiniikishas. They usually weigh more, they
almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more
trouble at an inn with their demands for fresh water in the bath, the
occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food in, and
a dozen other such requii-ements, to say nothing of their insisting on
having separate rooms, while Japanese guests — even strangers to one
another — are habitually required to share a room together.

Though one should always choose the best inn in each place to sleep
at, it will often be found more convenient to lunch at some wayside tea-
house or eating-house. The more elegant repast at the higher class inn

Inns: Travelling Expenses. 7

frequently takes much longer to prepare than it is' worth ; besides which,
most travellers carry their own proTisions.

In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko,
Kamakura, MiyanOshita, Kyoto, Nagoya, etc., the general charge is from
3 to 8 yen a day, everything included except wines. The charge per diem
for a native servant is from 50 sen to 1 yen. The charges at the hotels
under foreign management in the Open Ports are from 5 to 10 yen.

The average charge (to foreigners) f or jinrikishas in the most frequent-
ed portions of the country is now (1900) from 15 to 25 sen per ri, the same
per hour, and yen 1.50 per diem. About 50 per cent is added to these rates
in bad weather and at night. But the tendency of late years has been
towards constantly increased rates, owing to the rise in the price of rice
and other staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gi-atuity (salcate)
to jinrildsha-men after a hard run of any distance.

Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average
requirements, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him u
guide, should not exceed 12 yen per diem. If he restricts himself to
mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. A certain
saving is also effected when two or three persons travel together.

It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers
in Japan put up are of three kinds, — the European hotel, the Euro-
peanised or half-Em-opean half-Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely
native inn (yadoya). The ryori-ya, or eating-house, supplies meals with
less delay than the regular inns, but rarely offer sleeping accommodation.
The tea-house (chaya) is different again, being a place where people
neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take
light refreshments. Residents in Japan however, often include inns
under the denomination of tea-houses. Every little railway station has
its tea-house, which undertakes to purchase the traveller's ticket and
check his luggage.

Many inns now provide chairs and tables. Beds are stiU very rare ;
but good quilts (futon) are laid down on the mats, wherever may be most
convenient ; pillows of sorts are now common, or else a small quilt will be
rolled up as a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net is provided. No inn
in native style has a dining-room. Each guest dines in his own apart-
ment at whatever time he (or more often the host) may select.

Down to 18DU travellers had to be furnished with passports. These
have now been abolished, and all that is necessary is compliance with the
regulations requiring visitors at an inn to inscrilae their name, nationah-
ty, age, profession, etc. in the register. It is a common Japanese custom
to carry letters of introduction [annai-jo) from inn to inn. This offers
advantages, especially in seasons of epidemic disease or under any other
circumstances liable to cause the traveller to be viewed with suspicion, or
when, for the purposes of any special investigation, he vkishes to be
brought into intimate relations with his hosts along the road. Many inns
keep printed forms of annai-jo, which they fill in with the traveller's
name. Occasionally these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks
are wrapped up, as also the fans or towels which it is still the custom in
many places to present on departui-e to those guests who have given a
suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Japanese taste in small
matters of every-day Ufe.

Introduction : — Climate. Dress.

10. — Climate ; Dress ; Time of Visit.

Remember that Japan is not in the tropics, and bfing warm clothing
•with yon, whatever bo the season of yonr visit ; also very light clothing, if
your visit be in the suumier. Even in July, when the mean temperature
of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, days may come when you will be glad
of all your winter things. This applies still more to the mountains. On
the other hand, be more careful of exposure to the sun than you would
be in England. A sun helmet and a white umbreUa are useful additions
to the traveller's wardrobe.

Though garments of the roughest description vnll suffice for the
country districts, bring good clothes, such as might be worn at home, in
which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mix, if need be, in society,
whether Japanese or foreign. Japanese officials now attend their
offices in frock or morning coats, and Europeans visiting them should be
similarly attired. At a few of the highest social functions, frock-coats and
tall hats are expected. With regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such
as can be pulled ofiE and on easily, as it is necessarij to remove one's boots
every time one enters a house or temple, in order not to soil the mats on which
the Japanese sit. Grave offence is given, and naturallv given, by the
disregard of this cleanly custom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides
are therefore to be prefened, except for mountain work. If your boots
give out, try the native straw sandals (waraji) with tho native sock (tabi),
which give a better foothold that boots on smooth rocks. Many foreign-
ers have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition required being
a small piece of cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the thong which passes
between the great and second toes. Boots barely holding together can be
made to last a day or two longer by tying waraji underneath them.
Kanjiki, that is, iron clamps of triangular shape with spikes, are often
fastened below the waraji for walking over snow. The native blue cotton
gaiters called ki/ahan afford excellent protection froiu the attacks of
ilies, and from the rank undergrowth so often found on the lower slopes
of Japanese mountains.

At Yokohama, Chinese tailors attend the hotels, and will fit out
travellers with duck, crape, and other light clothing literally between a
night and a morning. Washing is well and expeditiously done at the
Open Ports and at the principal summer resorts.

Roughly speaking, the Japanese stimmer is hot and occasionally
wet ; September and the first half of October much wetter ; the late
autumn and early winter cool, comparatively dry, and delightful;
February and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather,
which is all the more keenly felt in Japanese inns devoid of fire-places;
the late spring rainy and windy, with Ijeautifnl days interspersed. But
different years vary greatly from each other. The average temperature of
January, which is the coldest month, is between 3()^ and 37' Fahrenheit at
Tokyo ; but there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the
year, namely, from November to March inclusive. Skating, however, is
rare. The average temperature of August is 78^ the thermometer some-
times registering over 90°. The climate of Northern Japan from
Sendai onwards is much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler
during July and August. A siiuilar remark applies even more forcibly to
the entire West Coast, which is exposed to the icy winds that blow direct
from Siberia. Kishu, Southern Shikoku, and Southern Kyushu are
warmer aU the year round.

kV a 0 0 0 ^

•a

4- jg^ssii

^ O >/

Time of Visit. Provisions. 9

Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which
Beason to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo or
in Kyoto durinpj the first half of April to see the lovely display of cherry-
blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by other
flowers, — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises,— well- worth seeing both for
their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese sight-
seers whom they attract. Further north and higher in altitude, the blos-
soms are two or three weeks later. If not able to visit Kyoto early in
April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November,
when the autumn leaves are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo is
less favoured in this respect, but the chrysantheuiums there early in
November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be
devoted to Nikkd, to Miyanoshita, Ikao, Unzen, or other mineral bath
resorts, or else to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts
of the interior of the Main Island, which are i^racticaily inaccessible
except between June and October. No high passes, such as the Sbibu-toge
beyond Kusatsu or the Konsei-toge beyond Nikko, should be attempted
before May. Fuji is only ascended during the hottest period of summer.

11. — Provisions.

Except at some of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side
resorts, meat, bread, and other forms of European food are unknown.
Even fowls are rarely obtainable ; for though plenty may be seen in
almost every village, the people object to selling them — partly because
they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a lingering
Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot subsist on
the native fare of rice, eggs, aiid fish (this, too, not to be counted on in
the mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Wines,
spirits, aerated waters, and cigars are equally unobtainable ; but beer is to
be met with in most towns, the Kirin Beer brewed at Yokohama Jbeing
excellent, as are the Ehisu Beer of Tokyo and the Asahi Iker of Osaka.
Beware of spuiious imitations. It is advisable to take one or two knives,
forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a tin-opener, and the most elementary
cooking utensils. Plates and glasses can be borrowed almost everywhere.
Persons fairly easy to please and who wish to travel lightly, can reduce
the size of their provision basket by using the rice, fish, and eggs of the
country as auxiliary to what they carry with them. Curry-powder will
often help to make insipid Japanese dishes palatable, and shoyu (soy) adds
a zest to soups. When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on
the side of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopefully
from a distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers embittered
when brought face to face with its unsatisfying actuality.

Fresh milk may now be obtained in many places. The yolk of an
egg beaten up is considered by many to be a good substitute for it in tea
or cofllee. It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may-
have drained. In the plains, water should be filtered and boiled before
drinking.

The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable by
most foreigners : —

Kasuteira, sponge-cake.

MifiO-shiru, bean-soup.

Sakana no shio-yaki, broiled fish.

Sakana no tempura, fish fritter.

Sake, a strong liquor made from rice and generally token hot.

10 Introduction : — 3Ieans of Locomotion. Luggage.

Semhei, thin biscuits of various kinds.

Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette.

Torwiafte, chicken wit np small and stewed.

Ushi-nabe, beef similarly treated.

TJnagi-mesM, layers of rice \vith eels done in soy.

Yokan, sweet bean-paste.

12. — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage.

Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which no
railway yet traverses, take a jinrildsha. Avoid the native basha (carriage),
if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake ; and be chary of
burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of your own in the interior, as
all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regard to shoeing, run-away
grooms (betto), etc. Such, in a few words, is our advice, founded on long
personal experience. Other possible conveyances are pack-horses (but the
.Japanese pack-saddle is torture), cows, the kago, — a species of sjuall
palanquin, uncomfortable at first, but not disliked by many old residents,
— and lastly, chairs borne by four coolies ; but these have only recently
been introduced from China, and are not found except at Miyanoshita,
Nikko, and a very few other places much resorted to by foreigners.
Persons obliged to use the pack-saddle will find considerable relief by
improvising stirrups of rope. The pleasantest sort of trip for a healthy
man is that in which walking and jinrikisha-riding are combined. In
those hilly districts which make Japan so picturesque, walking is the only
possible, or at least the only pleasant, method of progi-ession. The
luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on a coolie's back. Bicycles are
Tised to a limited extent. One might even make long trips over the chief
highways ; but hilliness, indifferent roads, and extremes of chiuate
combine to prevent Japan from being a good field for the cyclist.

Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised to
compress their luggage -vnthin nan-ow limits. T'his is specially neces-
sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, where
one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular
work, or possibly a buxom lass — is often the sole means of transport that
a village can supply, all the horses being generally with their masters
miles away in the mountains.

It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to divide
the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on
a coolie's hod, or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse's load. The
Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi^gori are much recommended, as
cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori (often
called kori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting
over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only
for clothes and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket
diminishes as the stores are consumed, ■s\dthout any empty space
being left for the remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these
yanaqi-ijirrl — one for personal effects, the other for provisions — should
suffice for him who intends to rough it. They should be provided with a
large wrapper of oil-paper (abura-kumi) against the rain, and fastened
either with cords which can be procured anywhere, or with stout leather
straps.

As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some-
times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair.
Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across roads

Where to Go and What to See. 11

•which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become
almost impassable even for foot passengers, — the result of a single season
of floods or typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to
the violence of the Japanese climate. It is furthermore probable that,
the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from
the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain accurate
information. It is hoped, however, that such discrepancies will never
be so great as seriously to afEect the traveller's comfort. An apparent
error of \ mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage of the
itineraries. This arises from the fact that, the mileage of each stage
of a journey being given only within \ mile of the actual distance, the
fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as
carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably accumulate. On the other
hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage
column, but by direct calculation (also within ^ mile) of the value of the
total in ri and cho. Distances are stated wherever possible. When the
time for a walk is given instead, it must be understood to be that of an
average pedestrian.

Europeans usually avail themselves of the first-class railway cars
wherever such are provided, and ladies in particular are recommended to
do so, as not only are the other classes apt to be overcrowded, but the
ways of the Japanese hourrjeoisie v/ith regard to clothing, the management
of children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. Smoking
is general even in the first-class, except in compartments specially labelled
to the contrary.

Sleeping-cars, dining-cars, and buffets are still extremely rare ; but
neat little boxes of Japanese food (benio), sandwiches, tea, beer, cakes, and
ice are offered for sale at the principal stations. The Railway Regulations
permit holders of tickets for distances of over 50 miles to break their
journey at the more important places Luggage is checked as in the
United States, each first-class passenger being allowed to carry KJO lbs.,
and each second-class passenger 60 lbs., free of charge.

Licensed porters (aka-boshi), distinguished by scarlet caps, are in
attendance at the larger stations, and carry parcels for a small fixed charge.

13 — Where to Go and What to See.

" How long does it take to do Japan ? " is a question often asked.
If by " doing " Japan be meant hurrying through its chief sights, the
globe-trotter can manage this in three or four weeks, by adopting one of
the Outline Tours given in Sect. '27. He who is bent on more serious
observation will not find four months too much ; and one who has spent
that time rarely fails to come again. Travellers' tastes differ widely.
Some come to study a unique civilisation, some come in search of health,
some to climb volcanoes, others to investigate a special art or industry.
Those who desire to examine Buddhist temples will find what they
want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at T6ky5, and at Nikko.
The chief shrines of Shinto are at Ise, and at Kitsuki in the province
of Izumo. The " Three Places " (San-kei) considered by the Japanese the
most beautiful in their country, are Matsushima in the North, Miyajima
in the Inland Sea, and Ama-no-Hashidate on the Sea of Japan. Persons in
search of health and comparative coolness during the summer months, to
be obtained without much " roughing," are advised to try Miyanoshita,
Nikko, or Ikao in the Tokyo district, Arima in the Kobe district, or (if they

12 Introduction : — Purchases. Objects of Art.

come from China, and wish to remain as near home as possible) Unzen in
the Nagasaki district. All the above, except Kitsuki, may be safely
recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially suited for persons residing in
Japan proper, and desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will
get sea-bathing, and in the interior a little fishing and a peej^ at the Aino
aborigines. But Japan is more esjiecially the happy hunting-gi-ound of
the lover of the picturesque. AVith the symmetrical outlines of its volca-
noes, with its fantastic rocks, its magnificent timber which somehow, even
when growing natxirally, produces the impression of having been planted
for artistic effect, with its tiny shrines and quaint hostehies constantly
placed so as to command vistas that delight the eye, this beautiful land is
a fitting abode for the most esthetic of modern peoples. Every variety of
scenery, from the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be
found. Of the former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama
(Kamakura, Enosbima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and
its surrounding belt of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso
valley, North-Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the north of the Main
Island, and many more. Hugged and sublime in their character are the
Hida-Etchii range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, and the whole mass of
mountains lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa. Bvit the
travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself rough in the extreme.
None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to hardship, should attempt it.
The provincial towns have, for the most part, little individuality.
As for what is called "seeing Japanese life,"' the best plan is to avoid
the Foreign Settlements in the Open Ports. You will see theatres,
•wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of European uniforms,
political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Methodist chapels, in
the big cities. The old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in
the districts not opened up by railways.

14. — PcECHASEs ; Objects of Art.

Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every de-
scription in the large stores of Yokohama and Kobe. They will also find
much to attract them in Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The
names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though
now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not
produced in large workshops. In old days, when the best pieces were
made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in
addition to the members of their own family, and cliefs-d' a^iivre often
originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured
in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At the
present day, foreign influence is causing the spread of Western business
methods ; but extensive maniifactures and shop-windows finely decked
out exist as yet only in two or three of the larger towns. Even there,
the best things must often be sought in naiTow lanes. It was also
formerly, ami is still to some extent, characteristic of the Japanese trades-
man and artisan-artist to hesitate to bring out his best specimens at
once. The rule is that several visits are necessary before he ^^■ill display
his choicest articles, and that even then a long time must be spent in
bargaining. Some establishments of the more modern sort have fixed
prices. This remark also applies to the kwankoba, or bazaars.

Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their
way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have

Shipment of Goods. Shooting. 13

crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the productions
of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the cloisonne,
the metal-work, and the embroideries. It is not possible, within the limits
of a travelling Handbook, to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art, — its
origin, its characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history. A
■whole library on this subject has couie info existence within the last twenty
years, and the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points of prime
importance. We must content ourselves with mentioning the names
of certain art-forms unknown in Europe, for most of which no ap-
propriate English equivalents exist. The objects embodying these art-
forms will constantly come under the traveller's notice, if he frequent the
cuiio stores. Such are : —

The inro, a small medicine-box in segments, generally made of
lacquer. The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one
extremity of which a netsuke is often attached.

The kakemono, or hanging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em-
broidered.

The korO, or incense-burner, generally of bronze or porcelain.

The makimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly
for manuscripts which .are often beautifully illustrated.

The netsuke, originally a kind of button for the medicine box, pipe-
case, or tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. These little articles
have since developed into gems of art.

The okimono, a general name for various small ornaments having no
definite use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet.

We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese
Bword and often cunningly wrought in metals and alloys, of which latter
the best known are — shibu-ichi and shakudo, both formed of a basis of
copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially noteworthy
among these articles are (he tsuha, or guard, and the inenuki, — small
ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by the silk
cord which binds together the various parts of the handle.

15. — Shipment of Goods.

A reference to the local Directories (or IToncj Lists, as they are also
called) will supply the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which
make a business of shipping travellers' purchases to Europe, America, and
elsewhere. As a rule, too, the foreign firms which deal in curios will
•undertake to forward anythirg to destination. Remember, when sending
a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it
will be opened and examined at the Japanese Custom-House. The ship-
pers should bo furnished with a detailed list of the contents and their
value, and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid
manner after examination.

IG. — Shooting.

The mountainous districts of Japan shelter deer and boar, though in
ever decreasing numbers, while in Yezo many bears still remain. Ducks
of various kinds, the gi'een pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hares,
are to be found in the plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering
the tlat country, while on somewhat higher ground the copper pheasant
has its abode in the thickest cover. Hybrids between the green jjheasant

J:4 Tnt}*oduction : — Fifthing.

and an imported Ciiinese species are also sometimes met with. Japan,
"v^th its rich plains and hills giAing ample shelter to game, shoidd naturalr
\j be a good sporting country ; bnt it does not seem to be such in fact.
The law protecting birds and animals during the breeding season has
never been rigorously enforced. Moreover, the districts around Yokohamaj
Kobe, and Hakodate, have for years been too much shot over, while in
other places much of the best sporting gi-ound is privately x^reserved, and
hence inaccessible, the total result being that this country is not one to
be recommended to the sportsman.

In most parts of Japan the shooting season begins on the 15th
October, and ends on the 14th March ; but in some prefec'rures it lasts
from the 1st October to the 30th April. Licenses may be obtained froni
the local authorities, on making a written application in due form in the
Snpanese language. The maximum fee charged is 10 yen.

17. — Fishing.

V. ^ Locality. Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that poilion of
the East Coast of Japan, north of Tokyo, where the water is sufficiently
colrl for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on the East Coast,
and the Shiribetsu on the West Coast are recommended. Both are in
season about June. In former years good troTit-fishing was obtainable
near Sapporo in the river Toyohira ; but owing to the refuse from the
flax-mills being allowed to discharge into the stream, only few fish now
run past it. Most of the other rivers of Y'^ezo and of the northern
provinces of the Main Island contain trout. The lakes of Yezo also
abound in ao-mnsv and ami-masu, the former a pink, the latter a white-
fleshed fish. These take the fly greedily, and are caught up to 2 lbs. in
weight. Near Fukuoka, in the province of Rikuoku, is a good stretch of
water, which would probably be best worked by staying at Ichinohe.
Further south, near Furusawa and close to the railway, is a fishing river
called the Nagagawa, and in the north-west of the Main Island the rivers
Iwaki and Noshiro are beUeved to be worth a visit. Trout <are also found
in Lakes Biwa and Chuzenji. Fly-fishers may hope for sport dming May,
June, July, and the early part of August.

Fi,sli. There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon
as known in Europe, and the masu {Salmo japonicus). The shake is a
fuU-sized sahuon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during
autumn and early winter. All the northern rivers hold these fish, which
in Yezo are so plentifvd that they fall an easy prey to crows and bears.
Many must weigh as much as 3U lbs. when caught ; but they afford no
sport to the angler, since, like salmon in other Pacific waters, they neither
rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At New Y'ear, the shops in Tokyo
are full of smoked shake that have been sent down from the north. Of
the masu there are several varieties ; but all are of the salmon-trout
description, and all are sporting fish. The true masu runs up the rivers
from May to August, the time depending on the temperature of the water.
These fish are in the best condition at a temperature of from 55° to 65°.
They are not taken below 50°. An 8 lb. fish is a large one, the usual size
being 5 or G lbs. The ai and yamame, which are widely distributed over
t!he rivers of Japan, are smaller vai-ieties of trout affording excellent eating.'
In some districts they are caught with worms, in others with the fly.

Tackle. Ordinally salmon taclde may be used, with flies of medium

Miscellaneous Hints. 1^

salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow.
The fly is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well
drowned. A rod of about 16 ft. is the most convenient, as the fish are
strong and the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spinning
"with a spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In Ijake
Chtizenji, the fish are caught dining the summer months by trolling from
a boat with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The bait used is a Idnd
of Colorado spoon, and can be obtained fi'om Nakamura, at Kyobashi
Ginza Itchome in Tokyo, where also Japanese lines can be had to supple-
ment the angler's gear for this land of fishing.

Accomw,odaiion. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had
almost everywhere. In Yezo one must be prepared for rough quarters,
and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a tent should form
part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his movements.

18. — Miscellaneous Hints. • -.:

Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; but those who do not mind
the odour of oil-paper (abura-kami), will find sheets of it stretched over
the qTiilts by far the best protection against fleas. Also, if going off tb6
beaten tracks, take soap, candles, and some disinfectant to counter-
act the unpleasant odours that often disturb the comfort of guests in
Japanese inns.

Take towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a piUow-case
to lay on the extemporised pillow which the tea-house people will arrange.
Instead of loose sheets, some prefer to sew two sheets together to form a
bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck.

If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money
for cun-ent expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexation
as to change, bargaining, and such matters.

If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each
respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it.

Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will thus
most easily obtain good cooUes or horses for the day's journey. By
arriving at your destination before sunset, you ^ill be likely to find th6
bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid the trouble and delay entailed
by the necessity of getting other water heated. You will also have a
better choice of rooms.

When planning your day's journey, allow an hour for each ri to be
done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and un-
avoidable delays. Ten ri ('i4J miles) is considered by the Japanese a
proper day's work.

However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the cooUes' request
to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no work on an empty
stomach.

The Japanese, whose grande passion is bathing, use water at higher
temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit — than physicians in Europe consider
healthful. No one, however, will be inJTired by taking baths of between
100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he have a weak heart or be liable to
congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot
baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better
than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to
time, and strong persons may advantageously end tip with a cold douche.
Paradoxical as the assertion may sound, it is nevertheless true that the

16 Introduction : — Misnellaneous Bints.

hotter tte bath, the greater the impunity with which one may after-
wards expose oneself to the cold siir. The reason why people at home
have come to entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is
that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves up
to the neck. The Jaimnese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of getting
into the same bath one after another, or even at the same time ; but it is
a breach of etiquette to discolour the water by the use of soap. They
soap themselves outside. The first guest to ariive at an inn has the prior
right to the bath. Formerly, prouiiscuous bathing of the sexes was
common, and though now forbidden by the police regulations, is still
practised at many of the provincial spas.

Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative from
fatigue after hard exercise. The services of a blind shampooer (amma
san) may be obtained at almost every inn.

Xeoer- enter a Japanese house icith yonr boots on. The mats take the
place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who trod
on oin: chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ?

It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese
inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything
open on account of thieves, and there is a poUce regulation to enforce
closing.

In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the
procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost in-
variably polite and serviceable. These ofiicials must not be insulted by
the offer of a tip. The same remark applies to railway guards and public
servants generally.

Make your plans as simple as possible. The conditions of travel in
this country do not lend themselves to intricate arrangements.

One standard time is now kept throughout Japan, — that of E. Long.
135°, which passes through Akashi near K5be. TLis time is U hours
ahead of Greenwich, and 14 hours ahead of American " Eastern Time."

Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become
acquainted wiU often desire to exchange cards.

Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour
towards the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent
suave mannei-s, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely
wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese,
however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous. His courtesy,
however, differs from that of the West in not being specially directed
towards ladies.

Many travellers irritate the Japanese by talking and acting as
if they thought Japan and her customs a sort of peejnshow set up
for foreigners to gape at. Others run counter to native custom, and
nevertheless expect to get things at native prices. They cannot
nnderstand why a biU for several dollars should be presented to them
for ten minutes' dancing, which perhaps after all has not, amused
them. The reason for the high charge is quite simple. Japanese
do not send for dancing-girls without ordering a dinner at the same
time. The dancing is an incident of the dinner, and it is in this dinner,
that the tea-house proprietor finds his profit. He does not care to have
his premises inva^led at unusual hours by people who take nothing for the
good of the house ; neither can the dancers get ready on the spur of the
moment. Too many foreigners, we fear, give not only trouble and offence,
but just cause for indignation by their disregard of propriety, esiieciaUy in
their behaviour towards Japanese women, whose engaging mcanners and

Language. 17

naive ways they misinterpret. The subject is too delicate to be treated
here. We may, however, be permitted to remark in passing that the
waitresses at any respectable Japanese inn deserve the same respectful
treatment as is accorded to girls in a similar position at home.

Never show any impatience. You wUl only get stared at or laughed
at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in t_i3
land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadahna,
which the dictionaries, in their simplicity, render by " immediately," may
mean any time between now and Christmas. Storuiing will not mend
matters, when you find (to take one example out of a hundi-ed) that your
jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started and
have been calculating that yovi will arrive at such and such a place at
such and such an hour. Or to take another instance. You are at a
large town, whose port Ues only 3 or 4 miles distant. I'ou ask at your
inn for information about steamers, and are told (in perfect good faith)
that they leave daily. On arrival at the port, you find they leave but
once in three days, and yours left yesterday. WhaJ; does a Japanese do
under such circumstances? He says " shilcata fja nai" ("it can't be
helped"), and there is an end of the matter. Imitate his example, if
you wish to save yourself and others much waste of temper and energy.
It is best to resign yourself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting
patiently, you have an opportunity of studying Japanese life. Neither be
moved to anger because you are asked personal questions by casual
acquaintances. To ask such questions is the Far-Eastern way of showing
kindly interest.

19. — Language.

The Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly,
is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im-
mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the traveller
into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him from the
wearisome tutelage of guides and interpreters.

Eemember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be
sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian,
that is to say : —

a as in father, i as in pin,

e as in pet, o as in pony,

u as in full.

There is scarcely any tonic accent ; in other words, all the syllables
are pronounced equally or nearly so. But particular care must be taken
to distinguish long o and u from short o ami u. The short vowels are
pronounced in a very light, staccato manner. Thus 0 tori nasai means
"Please take this;" but 0 tori nasai means "Please come (or go, lit.
pass) in." Short i and u sometimes become almost inaudible, and are
then marked t and u in the following vocabulary, thus arimasu, " there
is ; " wakarimashita, " I understand." In diphthongs, each vowel retains
its original force. Thus : —

Introductio n : — Lainiuo ge.

ai as in the English word "tsky.'*
au as in the English word " cow."
ei as in the English word " hay."

G is hard as in "give," never soft as in "gin;" but in Tokyo and
Eastern Japan it sounds like yig when in the middle of a word, exactly as
in the English words " singer," " springy " {not " sing-ger," " spring-gy ").
S is always sharp as in " mouse." W is often omitted after k or g, as
kasJii, " cake," for kwashi. Be very careful to pronounce double con-
sonants really double, as in the English words " sho/-iower," mea^wiess,"
" coc/ccrow." Thus kite with one i means " coming ;' ' but kitte ■with two
i's means " a ticket ; " ama is " a nun," amma " a shampooer."

As in all other languages of the Tartar or Mongolian type, so in
Japanese the adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the
nominative. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really
"postpositions." Explanatory or dependent clauses precede the prin-
cipal clause, and the chief verb comes at the end of the sentence. There
is no distinction between singular and plural, or between the different
persons of the verb, and there are no genders. Consequently, such
phrases as Eimashlta ka ? may equally well mean " Has he come ! "
"Has she come?" or "Have they come?" — for pronouns are very little
used, the sense they would convey being generally left to be gathered
from the context. Questions are asked by suffixing the particle ka, as
in the instance just cited. There are no negative adverbs or pronouns,
like our English "not," "never," "nothing," etc.; but the tenses of
Japanese verbs have negative forms. Though the coniugations are too
complicated to be given here in detail, the following specimens of the
most useful tenses, positive and negative, may be of practical latility.
The beginner will probably find the Honorific forms the easier to re-
member ; they are in constant use.

Paeadigm of Japanese Verbs.

Present & Cer-
tain Future.

Past.

Probable Fut.
Gerund.
Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.
Improb. Fut.

Plain.
Honorific.

: ] Plain.
i j Honorific.
! j Plain.
I ] Honorific,
i j Plain.
I ( Honorific.
: j Plain.
i 1 Honorific.
j Plain.
, j Honorific.
\ J Plain.
[ ( Honorific.

AJIU

Arimasu

Aiia

Arimashita

Arb or aru daro

Ariniasho

Atie

Arimashile

Nai

Arimasen

Nakatta

Arbnasen deshita

Nakaro or Arumai

Arimasumai

] There is or
(" will be.

r There was.

I There probably will
f be.

/ There being, there
f having been.
i There is not or
\ will not be.

There was not.

I There probably will
\ not be.

Language.

Present & Cer-
tain Future.

Past.

Probable Put.
Gerund.
Neg. Pi-esent.
Neg. Past.

Improb. Put.

Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.

\ Plain.
/ Honorific.
^ Plain.
/ Honorific.
^ Plain.
1 Honorific.
Plain.
1 Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.
\ Plain.
I Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.

IKU J I go or

Ikimasu \ wUl go.

Itta \ T ,'

Ikimashita ^iwent.

Iko or iku dard [ I shall probably

Ikimasho ) go.

Itte Going, having

Ikimashtte \ gone.

Ikanai )I do not or

Iklmasen \ shall not go.

Ikanakatta \ t ^•-^ i.

Iklmasen desHUa j I did not go.

Ikumai ) I shall probably not
Ikimasumai \ go.
Ikitai I want to go.
Ikitaku nai I don't want to go.

Pi-esent & Cer-
tain Futm-e.

Past.

Probable Put.
Gerund.

Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.

Improb. Put.

Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.

\ Plain.

/ Honorific.

Plain.
\ Honorific.

Plain.
/ Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.

Plain.
] Honorific.
(Plain.
( Honorific.

Plain.

Honorific.

EUEU )I come or

Kimasu \ will come.

Eita \ T

Kimashita V ''^'^^■

Kayo or kuru darfi } I shaU jri-obubly

Ki.masho \ come.

Kite ) Coming, having

Kimashtte \ come.

Konai { I do not or

Kimasen > shall not come.

Konakatta ) t T^ j.

Kimasen deshita \ ^ '^^'^ ^°* ««'^^*^-

Kimai ) I shall probably not

Kimasumai J come.

Kitai I want to come.

Kitaku nai I don't want to come.

Present & Cer-
tain Future.

Past.

Probable Fut.
Gerund.
Neg. R'esent.
Neg. Past.

Improb. Fut.

Desid. Adj.
Neg. ditto.

\ Plain.

1 Honorific.

\ Plain.

1 Honorific.

Plain.
1 Honorific.
\ Plain.

Honorific,
plain.

Honorific.
K Plain.
/ Honorific.
( Plain.
1 Honorific.

SURU jidoor
Shimasu s shall do.
Shita )-. ,.,
Shimashtta \ ' ^ '
Shiyo or sur dard ) I shall probably
Shimasho \ do.
Shite } Doing, having
Shirnashite \ done.
Shinai )I do not or
Shimasen j shall not do.
Shinakatta ij -,■■, „ . ,
Shimasen deshm ^Ichdnotdo.

Shlmai ) I shall probably not
Shimasiimai ) do.
Shitai I want to do.
ShJtaku nai I don't want to do.

Inlroduction : — Lanquage.

Present & Cer-
tain Fiitnre.

Past.

Probable Fiit.
Gerund.
Neg. Present.
Neg. Past.

Improb. Flit.

Desicl. Adj.
Neg. ditto.

^ Plain.
( Honorific.
[ Plain.
^ Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
^ Plain.
( Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
\ Plain.
( Honorific.
Plain.
\ Honorific.

TABERU

Tabemasu

Tahct'i

Tabemashita

Tabeyd or taberu daro

Tabemasho

Tahete

Tabernashite

Tabenai

Tabemasen

Tahenakaita

Tabemasen deshiia

Tahemai

Tabemasumai

Tdhetai

Tabetaku nai

I eat or
shall eat.

I ate.

)1 shall probably

) eat.

t Eating, having

) eaten.

(I do not or

\ shall not eat.

I did not eat.

1 1 shall probably not
I eat.

I want to eat.

I don't want to eat.

Adjectives are conjugated somewhat after the model of aru, " to be,"
as yoroslm or yoi, "it is good;" yokatta, "it was, or would have been
good ; " yokaro, " it wiU probably be good ; " yoku 7ia), " it is not good ; "
yokitte, " being good ;" yoku nakute, " not being good." Similarly warui,
" is bad ; " warukatta, " was bad ; " iakai, " is dear ; " takaku nai, " not
dear ; " muzukashii, " is difiicult ;" muzukasMkute, " being difficult," etc.

The Japanese, like other nations of the Far-East, are much addicted
to the use of polite forms of speech. AVhen two equivalents for the same
English phrase are given in our List of Useful Sentences, that marked
"less polite" should be used only to coolies and others of the lowest
class. It ^^ill be noticed in numerous examples that our English impera-
tives are almost always softened down to a polite periphrasis ■uith the
"word kudasai, "please give," "condescend to...." Sometimes the final
kudasai is omitted for brevity's sake, as To ico shimete kudasai (lit.
" Door shutting condescend "), or more familiarly To ico shimete, " Shut
the door." The Negative Imj)erative is mostly rendered as follows : —
So shtcha (for shite wa) ikenai, " Don't do that," lit. " As for so doing,
it is no go ;" OtoslCidvi ikenai, " Don't drop it."

The following Vocabulary and the Sentences that follow will be
found useful. The interlinear literal translations serve to show which
word corresponds to which, — a thing otherwise hopelessly perplexing to
the beginner, on account of the wide gulf that separates Japanese from
English idiom. Those ambitious of learning more of the language can
proAide themselves -with Chamberlain's Handbook of Colloquial Japanese.
Satow and Ishibashi's English-Japanese Pocket Dictionary is excellent.
Hepburn's Pocket Dictionary is to be recommended for Japanese-
EngKsh.

address (written) iokoro-gaki

aerated water teppo-mizu

bad wand

bag (hand-) kaban

baggage nimotsu

VOCABULAEY.
barbe

bar(-room)
bath (hot)
„ (cold)

toko-ya, kand-

hasami.
sakaba
furo, 0 yu
mizu-buro

Language.

beans

mame

dear

takai

bed

toko

dining-room

shokU'do

bed-clotbes

futon, yogi

dinner (late)

yfishoku, yu-han

bed-room

nema, nebeya

disinfectant

shuki-dome

bedstead

nedai

doctor

isha

beef

gyii-nUm, ushi

door

beer

hiiru

downstairs

shtta

bell

yoM-qane

driver

(jyosha

bicycle

jitensha

duck (tame)

a'hiru

big

okii

„ (wild)

kamo

bill (account)

kanjo

eels

unagi

billiards

tama-isuki

egg

tamago

bill of fare

kondate

., (boiled)

ude-tamago

black

kuroi

„ (half-boiled)

hanjiku

blanket

fiiranken, ketio

egg-plant

nasu

blue

aoi, sora-iro

embroidery

nui-mono

boat

June

express train

kyuko-ressha

boatman

sendn

fair (festival)

ennichi

boots

kutsu

fan (that shuts)

ogi, sensu

bottle

tokkuri

„ (not shutting) uchiwa

., (big)

o-hin

far

toi, empd

(small)

ko-bin

feast

gochiso

„ (hot-water) yu-tampn

ferry

funa-waiashi

box

hako

festival

matsuri

brazier

hibachi

tire

bread

pan

„ (conflagration) kwaji

breakfast

asa-han

fish

sakana

bridge

hashi

flea

nomi

brocade

nishiki

food

tabe-mono

bronze

' kara-kam

" (European)

yo-shoku

cabin

heya

fork

niku-sashi, hoko

cabinet

tansu

fowl

tori

cake

kwashl

fruit

mizu-gwashi

candle

rosoku

garden

niica

cards (playing)

karuta

gold

kin

„ (visiting)

na-fuda

good

yoroshii

caniage

baslvi

grapes

hwld

change (money)

tsuri

gi-een

aoi

charcoal

sumi

guide

aimai-sha

cheap

yasul

hard

katai

chicken

niwatori, tori

heavy

omoi, omotai

chopsticks

hashi

high

takai

cigar

maki-tahako

hill

yama

cigarettes

kami-maki

horse

lima

coachman

(jyosha

hot

atsui

coal

sekitan

hotel

yadoya, hoteru

coffee

kdhi, kahe

house

ie, jinka

cold

samid, isumela i

ice

kori

<;onsrilate

rydji-kioan

ink (Indian)

sumi

coolie

ninsoku

inn

yadoya

corkscrew

sen-nuki

„ -keeper

aruji, teishi

cotton

momen

interpreter

tsuben

crape

chirimen

island

shima

cucumber

ki-uri

Ja]")an

Sihon, 2fippon

curio-shop

ddgu-ya

kettle

tetsubin

Introduction : — Language.

kitchen

dai-dokoro

portmanteau

kaban

knife

hocho

post-ofl&ce

yuhin-kyoku

lacquer

wnshi, nurimono

potatoes

imo

lake

mizu-umi, kosid

„ (sweet)

Satsuma-imo

lamp

rampu

pretty

kirei

landing-place

hatoba

l^rice

nedan

lantern

choch in

quail

uzura

lemon

yuzu

railway

ietsudo

lemonade

ramune

„ train

kisha

letter

tegami

raw

nama

light (not heavy)

kand

razor

kami-sori

light (lamp, etc.)

akari

red

akai

low

htkid

rice (boiled)

meshi, gozen

luggage

rdmotsu

river

kawa

lunch

hiru-meshi

road

michi

mat

tatami

„ (new)

shindd

match

tsukegi, matchi

„ (old)

kyfido

matting

fjom

room

heya, zashiki

meat

nUcu

rug

ketto

medicine

kusuri

salmon

shake

melon (musk-)

makuwa-uri

salmon-trout

masii

melon (water-)

sidkwa

salt

shiico

milk

(ushi no) chichi

sardines

iicashi

milk (tinned)

hurikki no chichi

screen

bydbu

money

kane, kinsu

sea

umi

mosquito

servant

meshi-tsukae

„ -net

kaya

shaving-water

hige no yu

mountain

yama

ship

June

mustard

karashi

shop

raise

napkin

kuchirfuki

shop-keeper

akindo

near

chikai

silk

kimi

oil

abura

silver

gin

oil-paper

abura-kami

small

chiisai

omnibus

nori-ai-basha

snipe

shigi

onions

negi

soap

shabon

orange

mikan

soup

soppu, tsuyu

overcoat

gwaito, uwagi

soy

shoyu, shitaji

oyster

kaki

spoon

saji

paper

kami

stamj) (postage-)

yubin-giite, inshi

parcel

ko-zutsumi

station

station, teishaba

„ post

ko-zutsumi yuhin

steamer

jokisen

pass (mountain)

toge

steam-launch

ko-joki

path

michi

stick

tsue,sutekki

peach

memo

strawbeiTy

ichigo

pear

nashi

street

machi, tori

peas

endo-mame

sugar

said

pen (Japanese)

fude

supper

ynshoku, yfi-han

pepper

koslio

tea

cha, 0 cha

persimmon

kaki

„ (Chinese)

Nankin-cha

pheasant

kiji

tea-cup

cha-wan

tome-bari

tea-house

chaya

plum

sumomo, ume

tea-pot

kibisho

pohceman

junsa

dempo

pohce-station

koban

telegraph office

denshin-kyoku

porcelain

seto-mono

telephone

den-ioa

Language.

temple

( Bud-

trout

ai, yamame

dhist)

tera

tub (not regul

temple (Shinto)

jinja, miya

bath)

gyozui

ticket

kippu

Tigly

migurushii

„ (return)

ohen-gippu

umbrella

kasa, komori

time-table

jlkan-hyo

ujistairs

nikai

tinned

pro vi-

vegetables

yasai

sions

kanzume

vinegar

toothpick

koydji

waiter !

boy!

towel

tenugai

waitress !

ne-san !

town

machi

water

(cold)

inizu

train

kisha

„

(hot)

yu, 0 yu

„ (first)

ichi-ban-gisha

(tepid)

nuruma-yu

„ (last)

shimai-gisha

water-closet

benjo, chozuba

„ (exp

ress)

kyuko-ressha

white

shiroi

„ (through)

chokko

window

mado

tramway

Utsudo-hasha

wine

budoshu

watakushi

sore, are

watakushi no

iDatakushi-domo

You

anaia, omae

Y'^^ou (plur.)

anata-gata

Your

anata no, omae no

They

ano hito-iachi

ano Into, ano otoko

This

kore

She

ano hito, ano oiuui

That

sore, are

His, her

ano Mto no

1 —

hitotsvi

or ichi

-f^

jn-roku

2 -

futatsu „ yii

-r-t

ju-shichi

3 H

mitsu

„ snn

-f-A

ju-hachi

4 m

yotsu

„ shi

-tit

ju-ku

5 51

itsiitsx

„ go

r.-r

nv-ju

6 -^

mutsu

„ roku

^-f--

ni-ju-ichi

7 -fc

nanatsu „ shichi

san-jd

8 A

yatsu

„ hachi

m—

shi-jfi

9 %

koko'notsu „ ku

.50

E+

go-jit

10 -f-

„ j'U

T-.-f-

rotcu-ju

11 -h-^

jil-ichi

-ti-

shichi-ju

12 -p-

ju-ni

A-f-

hachi-ju

13 i-H

ju-san

ivf-

ku-ju

14 i-H

jfi-shi

100

hyaku

15 i-E

ju-go

lUOO

sen

No.

icld-han

1 o'clock ichi-ji

Xo.

ni-ban

ni-ji

No.

sam-ban

3 ",

san-ji

No.

yo-ban

4 „

yo-ji

No.

go-ban

5 „

go-ji

half-ijast 5 o'cloc

go-ji ha

1 yen

chi-yen

1st class

joto

2 „

li-yen

2nd „

chilto

10 sen

iis-sen

3rd „

kato

20 „

ni-jis-sen

30 „

san-jis-sen

Introduction : — Language.

A jiniikisha witli one man is called ir.hi-nim-hiki ; ■with two men,
ni-nim-biki. A carriage with one horee is it-to-biki ; with two horses, ni-to-
biki.

Many of onr words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things
for which they stand are not commonly known in Japan. Such are, for
instance, jam, lamb, pudding. The following are examples of Japanese
words for which there are no exact English equivalents :

ato-oshi, a second jinriMsha coolie who pushes from behind.

bento, livach carried with one.

bento-bako, a box to hold such lunch.

beito, a running groom.

dotera, a land of wadded dressing-gown.

kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried.

kai-kiri, engaging the whole (of a vehicle or boat).

kya-han, a kind of gaiters.

yanagi-gori, a useful sort of trunk made of wicker-work.

yukata, a thin dressing-gown worn before and after the bath.

Useful Sentences.
I.

MISCELLANEOUS.

How do you do ?

Eonnichi ica !
To-day as for

Crood morning.

0 hayd.
Honourably early

It is fine weather to-day.

Konnichi wa, yoi ienki
To-day ae for, good weather

gozaimasit.
is

de
by

It is hot to-day.

0 at.su gozalmasi/.
Honourably hot augustly-ls

It is cold to-day.

0 samu gozaimasu.

(The above weather

remarks almost amount to greetings.)

Good evening.

Komban wa !
This evening ae for

Good night.

0 yasumi nasai.
Honourably "resting deign

Goodbye.

Sayonara.

Thank you.

Arigato.

Pray don't mention it.

Do itashimashVe !
How ;having done

That is so ( = English " yes

"). Sayo de gozaimasu.
So by is

,, (less polite.)

So desit, or So da.
So is so is

Is that so ?

So desu ka ?

Language.

That is not so.

Isn't that so ?

Is that all right ? (polite)

„ (less polite).
That is aU right.
Is it this ?

It is this.
It isn't this.

Do yon understand ?

I understand.

I don't understand.

Please come here.

Come in

Please sit down.

Please come again.

Please excuse me.

Allow me to congratulate you.

That is plenty.
No, thank you.

What shall we do ?
What is it ?
What is this ?
Please show me.
Please let me know.
Just let me look.
Please go and ask.
You had better go find ask.
Just go and see.
that all right ?

So ja nai.
So by isn't

So ja nai ka ?

Yoroshiu gozaimasu ka ?
lioocl is ?

Yoroshii ka ?

Yoroshiu gozaimasu ; or Yoroshii.

Kore desii ka ?
This is V

Eore desu.

Kore ja nai.
This by isn't

WakarimashJta ka ''
Have understood ?

Wakarimashita .

Wakarimasen.

Oide nasai.

Honourable-exit deign

0 hairi nasai.

Honourably entering deign

Dozo o kake iiasai.

Please honourably to-place deign

Mata irasshai.
Again come (honorific verb)

Gomen nasai.

August-excuse deign

0 medeto gozaimasii.

Honourably congratulatory is

3Id takusan.
Already plenty

Do shimasho ?
How shall do

Nan desii ka ?
What is ?

Kore wa, nan desu ka ?
This as for, what is ?

Misete kudasai.
Showing condescend

Shirashlte kudasai.
Informing condescend

Clio'do haiken.
Just respectful-glance

Kiite kudasai.
condescend

Kiite kuru ga ii.
Asking to-come (nom.) good

Chotto mite kite kudasai.
Just looking coming condescend

Sore de yoroshii ka?
That by, ' good ?

Introduction : — Lang uage.

Don't do tliat.

That won't tlo.

"Why do you do such things ?

Please take care. j

Please pay attention. f

"Where is it ?

"Who is it ?
When is it ?
"Where is it from ?
What o'clock is it ?

Is this all ?

I don't know.

He says he doesn't know.

Wait a little.

Go quickly.

That is no good, or That won't do.

"Which is yours ?

This is mine.

"Who is that ?

"WTiat is his name ?

That is enough.

Oh, what a bother !

Don't make such a row !

Don't bother so !

"What a hoiTid smell !

Please leave off. )

Don't do that. j

It can't be helped.

So shtcha ikenai.
So as for doing, is no go

Sore ja ikemasen.
That i)y, is no go

Naze sonna koto sum ka ?
■Why such things do ?

Ki wo tsukete kudasai.
Spirit (accas.) fixing condescend

Doko desu ka ?
Where is ?

Dare desu ka ?

Itsu desu ka?

Doko kara desu ka ?

Xan-doki desu ka ?
What-hour is ?

Kore dake desu ka?
This only is ?

Shiriinasen {shiranai less polite).

Shirimasen to iimasu.
Knows-not that says

Sukoshi mate.
Little wait

Hnyaku ! h a yaku !
Quickly quickly

Sore wa, dame desu.
That as for. useless is

DocJd ga anata ow desu ka?
Which (nom.) you of is ?

Kore ga watakushi no desu.
This (nom.) me of is

Ano htto tea, dare desu ka?
That person as for, who is ?

Ano htto no na wa, nan
That person of name as for, what

to iimasu ka ?
that say ?

J/o yoroshii.
.\lready good

Komatta mon'' da ne !
Troubled thing is, isn't-it

Yakamashii !
Koisy

Urusai ! urvsai 1
Troublesome troublesome

Kusai I kusni !
Smelly smelly

0 yoslii nasai.

Honourably abstaining deign

SliVcata ga nai.

Doing manner (nom.) isn't

Language.

As qmckly as possible.

As early as possible.

Is anything the matter ?

WMcli is tbe best ?

How much for one ?

How miach per n (2^ miles) ?

How much per head ?

I don't want that.

This is the one I want.

It doesn't matter.
I don't care.

What a pity !

I have none at all.

Has nobody come ?

Can you ?

I can.

I can't.

Can you go ?

I can (go).

I cannot (go).

What is the reason ?

You mustn't touch it.

Give me one more (another).

Please go first {apres vous).

I should hke to borrow it for
minute.

Don't break it.

You mustn't break it.

Aarutake Isolde.

As . . as possible hurrying

Nanitake hayaku.

As . . as possible quickly

Do ka sldmashita ka ?
Somehow has done ?

Dochi ga yoroshii ?
Which (nom.) good

Ilitotsu ikura ?
One how much

Ichi-ri ikura ?
One ri how much

Hitori-mae ikura ?

One person front, how much

Are wa, irimasen.
That as fur, enters not

Kono ho ffa irimasu.
This side (nbm.) enters

I Kamaimasen.
\ Matters not

Oshii koto desii ne !
Regrettable fact is, isn't-it

Sukoshi mo nai.
Little even isn't

Dare mo konai ka?
Anybody comes not ?

Dekimasu ka ?
Forthcomes (it) ?

Dekimasu.
Forthcomes

Dekimasen.
Forthcomes not

Ikaremasu ka ?
Can-go

Ikaremasu.
Can-go

Ikaremasen.
Cannot-go

Do iu wake desii?
What say reason is

Ijitcha ikenai.

As-f or- touching is-no-go

Mo hitotsu kudasai.
More one condescend

Dozo 0 saki ye.
Please honourable front to

a Chotto haishaku.
Slightly borrowing
I KoicasMcJvi ikenai.
) As-for-breaking is-no-go

Introduction : — Language.

It is your fault.

It is not my faiilt.

I am very glad to see yon.

Please give it to me.

I am going out at about nine

o'clock.
What is the matter ?

Look for it everywhere.

How long will it take ?

How much will it cost ?

I want a piece of string.

I have not yet decided.

I only want one.

And then

It can't be found.

{^all him back.

Which are yours ?

Whose are these ?

He said he'd come to-monow.

Will you guarantee it ?

Anata ga loarui.
You (nom.) bad.

WatakuJihi ga warui n'ja ncd.
I (nom.) bad of isn't

Yoku 0 ide nasaimasMta.
Well honourable exit have-deigned

Kudasai.
Condescend

Ku-ji goro ni de-Jcakemasu.
Nine-hours about at go-out

Do shimashita ka ?
How has-done ?

Yoku yoku sagashtte.
Well well seeking

{^Toki ica) dono kurai kakarimasu?
Time as-for, what about costs

(Kane tea) dono kitrai kakarimasu ?
Money as-for, what about costs

Ito ICO kudasai.
string (accus.) condescend

Mada klmemasen.
Yet decide not

Hitotsu de yoroshii.
One by is good

Sore kara

That from

Mi-tsiikaranai.
See fix cannot

Yohi-modoslnte kudasai.
Calling back condescend

Bochira ga anata no desu?
Which (nom.) you of is?

Dare no desu ka?
Who of is ?

MyonicM kuru to iimashita.
To-morrow come that said

Vke-aimasu ka?
Guarantee ?

AT AN INN.

Which is the best inn ?

Have you any rooms?
Have you any beer ?

nani-ya
what house

Yado wa,

Hotel as for,

yoroshii ka ?
good ?

ZasMki wa, arimasu ka ?
Room as for, is ?

Blirtt, wa, arimasu ka?

ga
(nom.)

Language.

Tliis room Mall do.

Can you give us European food ?

I suppose you liaven't bedsteads,
haye you ?

I don't want a bedstead.

Ai'e there any mosquitoes bere ?

Kono zashiki de yoro.<ihu.
This room by, good.

Yo-shoku ga dekimasii ka .
Sea-food (nom.) forthcomea ?

Kedai

It is dreadfully hot.
Please open the paper slides.
Please sbut the window.
Bring some hot water.

Bring some cold water.
Where is the W. C. ?
Please show me the way.
Please bring a candle.

Is the bath ready ?

It is not ready yet.

Isn't it ready yet?
When will it be ready ?

As soon as it is ready.

Please let me know when it is
ready.

All right, Sir.

Please buy me five 10 sen post-
age-stamps.

wa,
Bedstead as for,

Nedai wa.
Bedstead as for.

arimasumai.,
probably is not,

irimasen.
enters not

ner
eh?

Kono hen iva, ka

This neighbourhood as for, mosquito

ga imasu ka ?
(nom.) dwells ?

Aisukute, shi-yo ga nai.
Hot being, way of doing (nom.) isn't

<S7iq;'i wo akete kudasai.
Paper slide (accus.) opening condescend

Madn too shimete kudasai.
Window (accus.) shutting condescend

0 yu ico matte

Honourable hot water (accus. ) bearing

koi.
come

Mizu motte koi.
Cold, water bearing come

Benjo wa, dochira desu ?
W. C. as for, where is V

Chotto annai .flute kudasai.
Just guide doing condescend

Bosoku ivo motte kite
Candle (accus.) carrying coming

kudasai.
condescend

Furo ga dekima.'ihita ka .*
Bath (nom.) has forthcome '.'

Mada dekimasen.
Still forthcomes not

Mada dekimasen ka ?

Itsu dekimasii ka ?
When forthcomes ?

Deki shidai.

Forthcomes according

Dekimashitara, s]iiras]ute

When shall have forthcome, informing

kudasai.
condescend

Kashikomarimash'ita. (Said only to
Have been reverential superiors).

Jis-sen no yicbin-gitte go-mai
Ten sen of postage-stamp five pieces

katte kite kudasai.
buying coming condescend

Introduction : — Language.

And then please take these things
away.

Have the things come from the
wash ?

I am thirsty.

Give me a glass of water.
Please give me some more.
I am hungry.

I want something to eat.
Please get it ready quickly.

Anything will do.

And then please lay down the

bedding.
Please let me have more quUts.

There is a hole in the mosquito-
net.

I want to get shaved. Is there a
barber here?

There is.

Then send for him.

I feel unwell.

Is there a doctor here?

Sore kara,
That from,

kudasai.
condescend

Sentaku-mono
Wash-things

ka?
?

Nodo
Throat

Mizu
Water

Motto

0
Honourable

sukimashVa.
has become empty

kore wo
this (accus.)

sagete
lowering

ga
(nom.)

dekita
have forthcome

ga
(nom.)

kaioakimafslCita.
has dried

ico
(accus.)

kudasai.
condescend

ippai.
one-full

naka
inside

ga
(nom.)

JVajji ka
Something

tahefai.
want to eat

0 shitaku wo Jiayalcu

Honourable preparations (accus.) quickly

doJca.
please

]\'an de mo yoroshii.
What by even good

Sore kara, toko shiite Icudasai.
That from, bed spreading condescend

Futon wo

Quilt (accus.)

kudasai.
condescend

Kaya

Mosquito-net

motto
more

sJiiite
spreading

ni,
in,

ana
hole

Hige wo
Beard (accus.)

.sotte
shavinji

ga,
whereas,

arimasu

koko
here

ka?
?

ga arimasu.
(nom.) is

moraitai
want to receive

tokoya ga
barber (nom.)

Gozaimasu (more polite than Ari-
masu).

Sonnara yonde, koi.
If so, calling come

Kagen ga warui.
Feelings (nom.) bad
Koko ni isJia ga orimasu
Here in doctor (nom.) dwells

ka?
1

Language.

Please call my "boy."

Please hui-ry him tip.
Please lend a hand here.
Please post these (letters).

Please light the Ughts.

I start at 7 o'clock to-morrow
morning.

As I am starting early to-morrow,
please wake me early.

I want to be called at half past 5.

I am going by the first train in the
morning.

At what o'clock does the first train
start ?

Please engage two coolies.

Please bring the biU.

Please to accept this small sum as
tea-money.

Many thanks for the trouble you
have taken.

Is the luggage ready?

Is nothing forgotten?

hoy wo yonde
boy (accus.) calling

kudasai.
condescend

Icudasai.
condescend

wo
(accus.)

dasiCile
putting forth

Watakusld no
I of

kudasai.
condescend

Saisoku shite
Urgency doing

Te im kaslute
Hand (accus.) lending

Kono yfihin

This post

kudasai.
condescend

Akari wo tsukete kudasai.
Light (accus.) fixing condescend

Myo-asa shichl-ji

To-morrow morning seven-houi-s

shuttatsu .shimasu.

departure do

Myo-asa
To-morrow morning

kara, hayaku

because, early

sai.

descend

Oo-ji-han ni

Five-hours-half at,
tai.
obtain

hayaku
early
Okoshite
rousing

okoshite
rousing

tatsu

start

kuda-

con-

morat-

want-to-

IcM-han-gisha de
One-number-train by

ikimasu.

Ichi-ban-gisha
One-number-train

wa nanji desu 7
as for, what-hour is.

futari
two people

Ninsoku
Coolie

kudasai.
condescend

Doka kanjo-gaki wo
Please bill-writing (accus.)

kite kudasai).
coming condescend

Kore wa siikoshi
This as for, little
o chadai

honourable tea-price

Oki-ni 0

Greatly honourable

narimashita.
have become

Nimotsu no

Luggage _ of

yoroshii ka ?

good ?

Wasure-mono ica
Forgotten things as for.

tanonde
requesting

(motte
carrying

desu qa, —
is although, —
isii.

seica ni
helj) to

shttaku
preparation

nai
aren't

ica,
as for.

ka?

Introduction : — Language.

Please order the jinrikishas.

We ■will start as soon as everything
is ready.

It is time to start.

We ninst not be late.

It is so nasty I can't eat it.

Kumma no
Jinrikisha of

slCite kndasai.

doing condescend

Shltaku shidai,
Preparation according

shltnkn
preparation

tco,

(accus.)

de-kalcemasho.
will go forth

Jikan
Hour

Osoku
Late

ni narimashita.
to has become.

tiaru to ikenai.
become if, is no go

There are none anywhere. j

It is not to be found anywhere. (

It is so hot I can't get into it.

It is not hot enough.

I want a jinrikisha.

I am not going to bny anything.

TNTiere hare you been ?

(in scolding a servant for absence)

What is this called in Japanese ?

It is very inconvenient.

According to circumstances.

If it suits your convenience.

I think that would be the most
convenient.

Mazvkute
Being-nasty

Doko ni
Where in

taherareniasen.
cannot-eat

mo,
even

arimasen.
is-not

Atsiik^lte
Being-hot

Nurukute
Being-tepid

Kuruma

hairenvisen.
cannot-enter

ikenai.
is no go

ga irimasu.
JinrLkisha (nom.) is-necessary

Nani-mo k.aimasen.
Anything buy-not

Omae loa, doko ye itte ita ?
You as-for, where to going have-been

Xihon-go de, kore wa
Japan-language in, this as-for,
iimasii ?
say

Yohodo fuisugo desix.
Plenty inconvenient is

Tsugo shirlai.

Convenience according

Go tsugo ga

August convenience (nom.)

Jw wa, tsugo ga
side as-for, convenience (nom.)
gozaunasho.
will-iDrobably-be

nan to
what that

yokereba.
if-is-good

Sono
That

yii
good

That is a different thing.
It is a mistake.

Please dry this.

Please clean the room.

WiU you change this five yen note ?

Please sew this.
I will go and see it.

hoshile kudasai.
drying condescend

kudn.sai.
condescend

Chig'iiina.fii.
(It) differs

Kore wo
This (accus.)

Soji shite
Cleansing doing

Kono go-yen
This iive-1/ew

kuremasu ka?
give ?

Kore v:o nnite

This (accus.) sewing condescend

Mite kimasho.
Looking will-come

satsu
bill

ku'lisai.

tori-kaete
changing

Language.

Please cool the beer.
That is not enough.

We will engage the whole (coach,
boat, etc.).

I will go if it is fine.

Bvlru wo hiyasMte kudasai.
Beer (accus.) cooling condescend

Sore de tarimasen.
That by suffices-not

itashlmashd.
will-do

m
to

Kai-kiri
Buy-completing

Tenki
Fine-weather

I will take my bath first and my Furo v)a saki
food afterwards.

nara,
if-is

Bath

as-for

ikimasho.
will-go

shokuji wa ato
food as-for after

I want to get my hair cnt.

Don't cut it too short.

It is very uncomfortable.

"What are you looking for ?

It is only a little way.

It is dreadfully draught}''.

The fire has gone out ; j^lease bring
some more charcoal.

Please put out the light.

You must not piit out the light.
Did any one call while I was out ?
Put them sei)arately.

before,

ni shimasho.
to will-do

Kami wo Imsande moraiiai.
Hair (accus.) cutting want to get

Amari mijikaku kitcha ikenai.
Too short aa-for-cutting is-no-go

Yohodo fujiyn desu.

Very

Nani
What

Jiki
Soon

Kaze
Wind

Fire

iru ?
are

uncomfortable is

WO sagashtte
(accus.) seeking

soko desu.
there is

ga haitte, komaru.
(nom.) entering am troubled

ga
(nom.)

kleta
vanished

sumi
charcoal

wo
(accua.)

o kure.

honourably give

kara,
because,

motte
carrying

motto
more

kite
coming

Akari wo keshite o

Light (accus.) extinguishing honourably

kure.
give

Akari wo kesJiicha ikemasen.
Light (accua.) extinguishing is no go

Busu ni, dare ka kimasen ka ?
Absence in somebody comes not ?

Betsu-hetsu ni shite kudasai.
Separate separate in doing condescend

ra.

SHOPPING.

I think I'll go out shopping.
How much is it ?
That is too dear.

Kai-mono ni de-kakemashd.
Purchases to will probably go out

Ikura desii ?
How much is

Sore wa takai.
That as for, dear

Introduclion : — Language.

You mtLst go do"vm a little in price.
Haven't you any a little cheaper ?

How nix;ch does it all come to ?

Have you change for a yen ?

Please send them to the hotel.
Haven't you got something new ?

This is the better of the twa
This is the one I want.

"VMiat is this used for ?

WTiat is this made of ?

I don't like it.

Is there a cate-shop here ?

How much for one ?

I'll take aU these ; please -wTap them

up in paper.
'Wrap them up separately.

Aie they all the same price ?

Sukoshi 0 make nasai.

Little honourably cheapening deign

Mo chitto yasui no ga
still slightly cheap ones (nom.)

7iai ka ?

aren't ?

Mina de, ikiira ni
All by how much to

ka?
?

7ianmasu
becomes

Ichi-yen no

One-yen of

arimasu ka?
is ?

Yado ye
Hotel to

Nani ka

Something

ka?

Kono ho ga ii.
This side (nom.) good

tsuri
change

wa,
as for

toiokde kudasai.
forwarding condescend

atarnshii mono arbnasen.
new thing isn't

nam
what

Kore wa.
This as for
ka?
?

Koj'e ICO, nani
This as for what
imasu ka ?
is ?

911

tsukaimasi*
emxjloy

de dekite
by forthcoming

ni
to

mmasen.
enters-not

Ki
Spirit

Koko ni kwashi-ya arimasu ka ?
Here in cake-shop is ?

Uitotsu ikura ?
One how-much

Kore dake kaimasu kara, kami

This amount buy because, paper

ni tsutsunde

kudasai.

in wrapping

condescend

Betsu hetsu

ni tsutsunde

Separate separate

in wrapping

kudasai.

condescend

Mina do-ne

desit, ka ?

All same-price

is ?

IV.

ON THE EOAD.

Which is the way to Kiga ?

Kiga ye iku michi

Kiga to goes road

dochira de gozaimasu ?
which by is

ten,
as for.

Laiujuagt

Please tell me the ^vay.

Go straiglit on.

Where is the telegraph office ?

^\T].ere is the ticket-office ?

(Give me) one 1st class ticket to
Nikko.

Michi ICO oshiele kiidasai.
Road (accus.) teaching condescend

Massugu oide nasal

Straight honourable exit dei"n

Denshin-Jcyoku tea, dochira

Telegraph office as for, where

desu ka ?
is ?

Kippu wo uru iokoro ua
Ticket (accus.) sell place as for

doko desii ka?
where is ?

Nikko made,
Nikkd till.

itto ichi-

first class one-

(Please book) this luggage for
Niklvd.

mai.
piece

Kore dake no
This only of

Nikko made.
Nikko till

How many hours does it take to Xagoya made.

get to Nagoya ? Nagoya till,

kakarimasu ?
lasts ?

I mean to spend the night at Xagoya 'Je,

nimotsu wo,
luggage (accus.)

nan-ji-kan
wLat-hour-space

Nagoya. Nagoya

s'la-a tsumori
do intention

ippaku
one-nisht'fi lodging

iJfsH.

"When does the train for Xikko

start ?

^\^lere do we change trains .■'

I will rest a little.

What is tlie name of that mopu-
taiu ?

What is this place called ?

Is this a Buddhist or a Shinto Kore
temple ? This

yiklcd-yul. l
Nikko going

no
of

Icisho
traiu

as for.

aun-doki ni dtmasn ka ?
what hour at issues V

Doko de nori-kaema su ka?
Where at ride-change ?

Sukosh i
Little

[lafsumitnash
will i)robably i

rest

Ano yama
That mountain

va,
as for.

Win
what

to
that

iiinasii

ka ?

say

•>

Koku
Here

V'l.l ,
as for,

nan
what

to
that

say

iokoro
place

desii

ka ?
•>

I'sa, tera

as for, Buddh. temple

desii

ka .■' yashiro desii ka ?
? .Shinto temple is V

Introdiioiion : — Language.

How far is it from liere to the next
town ?

I will lie down a bit, as I feel
seasick.

Will you come with me ?
Let us go together.
Let us rest a little.
I want to see the dancing.
I don't want to see it.
Is it much further ?
When will you come ?
'\\Tien will he come ?
I have left it behind.

What is there to see here ?

Do you think we shall be in time ?

Are you ready ?

There is plenty of time.

There isn't enough time.

I am busy now ; come later.

"What is the fare ?

Give them 10 sen each as a tip.

It is too wet.

Koko

kara, sakl no

shuku

Here

from, front of

post-town

made.

ri-su wa

dono

till.

mile-number as for.

what

kurai

desu ?

about

Fune

ni i/oimashiia

kara,

Ship

in bave-got-tipsy

because.

chotlo

nemashd.

little

will-lie

Issho ni o ide

Together honourable exit

Issho ni ikimnsho ja nai ka ?
Together will-go isn't it ?

Chiito yasumimashd ja nai ka?

nasai.
deign

Little

will-rest

isn't it ?

nai.
nut

Odori wo mitai.
Panco faccus.) want-to-see

Mitaku
Want-to-see

Mada takusan arimasu ka '!
Still much is ?

lisu 0 ide ni narimasu ka ?

When honourable exit to become ?

Itsu kima.su ka ?
When comes ?

Oite kimashita or
LeavinR have-come

Wasttreie kimashita.
Forgetting have-come

Koko de miru mono wa.

Here at see things as for,

7ian desu ka ?

what are ?

Ma
Time

Already

Ma
Time

3Ia
Time

Iina
Now

d aimasho
0 shall meet

yoroshii ka
'all right ?

ka?
1

aimasu.
meets

aimasen.
meets-not

isogashii
busy
irusshai.
deign-to-come

Chinsen wa.
Fare as for,

Mei-mei
Each

kara,
because,

nochi-hodo
afterwards

jis-sen
ten sen

ikura ?
how much

ni sakate wo
to, tip (accus.)
yatte kuda.iai.
giving condescend

Kono ame de shiyo ga ncii.
This rain by way-to-do (nom.) isn't

Language. The Shinto Religion.

Isn't there a short cut ?

I would rather walk.
Is it far ?

I have a headache.

I have a toothache.

Where can we stop for lunch ?

I shall go whether it rains or not.

Chika-michi urimasen lea?
Near road isn't ?

Arukimasho.

Empo de.tu ka?
Far ia ?

Zutsu shimasu.
Headache does

Ifa fja itai.
Tooth (nom.) painful

Hiru wa, doko de tahemashu ka?
Noon as for, where at shall eat ?

Futte mo ieite mo iklmasu.
Raining even, shining even, I «o

Put me down (said to a jiniild-man). Orose.

Let down
I should Hke to enquii-e. Chotto idmgaimasu.

Little (I) enquire

Which is the best inn at Minobu? Minohu wa, yado wa, dochira

Blinobu as for inu as for where

ga yoroshiu ijozaimasii?
(nom.) good is?

Isn't there any inn in this village? Kono mura loa, yadoya wa

This village as for inu as for

oTimasen ka ?
isn't ?

20. —The Shint5 Religion ; Ryobu and Pure Shinto.

_ The Japanese have two rehgions, Shinto and Buddhism,— the former
indigenous the latter imported from India via China and Korea • but
^i«!^nf J"^ supposed that the nation is therefore divided into two
dist net sections each professing to observe one of these exclusively
nur. bPv'n? ""'^'qi -^ ^-"/"^ "',' thoroughly interfused in practice, that the
number of pure Shmtoists and pure Buddhists must be extremely smaU
Bud.l°htl exception IS aftorded by the province of Satsuma, from which the
Luddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of their number
betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyoshi. Every Japa-
?hKtn'T> '' ^f ^^ IS placed by his parents under the protection li some
Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, while the funeral rites are
«>ndiicted, with few exceptions, according' to the ceremonial of tS
Buddhist sect to which his family belongs^ It is only in recent years
J-eJ^prni ^"^f '^^g *° the .tncient ritual of the Shintoists has been
leaved, after almost total disuse during some twelve centuries This
i'wtriT-''?°"'v°"'' «?^f^itio^ of things is to be explained by the fact
.bat the Shinto religion demands little more of its adherents than a %-isit

Wpir ?^ ''^^ ^^^ o^cfio^ of the annual festival, and does not
piotess to teach any theory ol the destiny of man, or of moral duty thus
eavmg the greater part of the held fi-ee to the imests of Buddha,' with
their apparatus ot theological dogma aided by splendid rites Tmd
STr'" '^t^"^'^^^^^^; Multitudinous as are its own deities, Buddhism
.ound no difhculty in receiving those of the indigenous behef into its
pantheon, this toleration having been pre'dously displayed ^ith regard

38 Iiitrududion : — The SJiinio Religion.

to Hindu deities and other mythological beings. In most cases it was
.pretended that the native Shinto gods {Kami) were merely avatars of
some Budilhist deity (Ilotoke) ; and thns it was possible for those who
became converts to the foreign doctrine to coutiniTe to believe in and oHer
np jH'ayers to their ancient gods as before.

Shinto is a compound of natm-e-worship and ancestor-A\-orship. It
has gods and goddesses of the Avind, the ocean, tire, food, and pesti-
lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, certain
rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred m>Tiads of deities in
all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant (loddess of the Sun,
born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, while fi'om his
right eye was produced the C^od of the Moon, and from his nose the
Aiolent (jod Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to various indignities and
Mas chastised accordingly. The Sun-(ioddess was the ancestress of the
line of heaven-descended !lIikatlos, who have reigned in unbroken siicces-
sion from the beginning of the world, and are themselves gods ujion
earth. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured above all the rest, her shrine
at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrines hold other gods, the
deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, some coiumanding a wide
popularity, others known only to narrow local fame, most of thorn tended
by hereditary families of priests believed to be lineal descendants either of
the god himself or of his chief servant. From time to time new names
are added to the j^antheon. The present reign has witnessed several
instances of such apotheosis.

Shintd has scarcely any regular services in which the people take
part, and its priests (kanmishi) arc not distinguishable by their appearance
fi-om ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in presenting the morning
and evening offerings do they wear a peculiar dress, which consists of
a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a
girdle, and sometimes a black caji bound round the head with a broad
white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and
retiun the option of adopting another career. At some temples young
girls fill the office of priestesses ; but their duties do not extend beyond
the performance of the pantomimic dances known as kagura, and assis-
tance in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are tinder
no vows, and many as a matter of course. The services consist in the pre-
sentation of small trays of i-ice, fish, fruits, vegetables, rice-beer, and the
flesh of birds and aninuds, and in the recital of certain formal addresses
(norito), partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style
of composition employed is that of a very remote period, and ^roiUd not
be comprehended by the common people, even it the Latter were in the
habit of taking any jmrt in the ritual. With moral teaching, Shinto does
not profess to concern itself. '" Follow your natural imjiulses, and obey
the ilikado's decrees : " — such is the siim of its theory of human duty.
Preaching forms no x^art of its institutions, nor are the rewards and
pimishments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The
continued existence of the dead is believed in ; but whether it is a condi-
tion of joy or jjain, is nowhere revealed.

Shinto is a Chinese word meaning " the Way of the Gods," and was
first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the native
beliefs and practices from those of the Indian religion. Shinto has several
sects, — the Honkyoku, the Kurozumi Kyo, etc ; biit these divisions do not
obtrude themselves on public notice. Practically the cidt may be regaided
as one .and homogeneous.

The architecture of Shintd teiuples is extremely simple, and the mate-

TIw Hhinto EeUgion. 39

rial used is plain ■white wood \ntli a tliatcb of chain;Kcyparis bark. Tlie
annexed plan of the Great Temi^le of Izimio {Izumo no 0-yo.shiro).
taken froiii a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Jaixanese
paper, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto
temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the
Empire. We find then : —

1. The Main Shrine {lionsUa or lionden), which is divided into two
chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god (mi-tama-
shiro), — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object, — and is
always kept closed, while in the ante-chamber stands a wand from which
depend strips of white paper ujohei) intended to rejiresent the cloth
offerings of ancient times. The muTor v/hich is seen in front of not a
few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has
nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed.

2. An Oratory (haiden) in front of the main l^uilding, with which it
is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temi^le, connected by

3. A Corridor or Gallery {ai-no-7na). A gong often hangs over the
entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention of the
god, and beneath stands a large Vjox to receive contributions.

4. A Cistern (nii-tarashi), at which to wash the hands before prayer.

5. A low Wall, or rather Fence {tama-gaki, lit. jewel hedge), enclosing
the chief temple buildings.

B. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore
termed ita-gaki.

7. A peculiar Gateway (torii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some-
times there are several of these gateways. Their origin and signification
are alike iinloiown. The presence of the torii is the easiest sign whereby
to chstinguish a Shinto from a Buddhist temple.

8. A Temple Office (shamusho), where the business of the temple is
transacted, and where some of the priests often reside.

9. Secondary Shrines [sessha or jnassha) scattered about the grounds,
and dedicated, not to the deity worshijiped at the main shrine, but to
other members of the crowded pantheon.

10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent.

11. A Treasure-house (hozd).

12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinsenjo).

13. A Gallery (kicaird).

1-4. A Dancing-stage (bugaku-dni). A more usual form of this is the
kagura-do, or stage for the performance of the kagura dance.

15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jiinme). nsnally an
albino.

16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing.

17. Gates.

Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy well
or stone, a tree of odd shape or unusual size, the image of the bull on
which the god Tenjin rode, etc.

The curiously jn-ojecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the lionsha
are termed cidgi. The cigar-shaped logs are termed katsuogi. Both these
ornaments are derived fi-om the architecture of the primitive Japanese
hut, the katsuogi having anciently served to keep in place the two trunks
forming the ridge of the roof. The temple gi'ounds are usiially suiTounded
by a gi'ove of trees, the most common among which is the cryptomeria, a
useful timber tree. These plantations were originally intended to supply
materials for the repair or re-erection of the buildings ; but in many cases

40 Introduction : — T/ie Shinto Religion.

their great antiquity causes a sacred character to be attributed to the
oldest trees, which are surrounded by a fillet of straw rope, as if to show
that they are tenanted by a divine spirit.

The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niches right and left
of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called
Zuijin, or " Attendants," more popularly Yn-daijin, or " Ministers with
Arrows." The stone figures of dogs, — or lions, as some suppose them to
be, — which are often found in temple grounds, are called Ama-inn and
Koma-imi, lit. "the Heavenly Dog" and " the Korean Dog." They are
credited with the power of driving off demons.

Very often a large straw-rope, peculiarly twisted [slibvc-naica) is to be
seen before the entrance to a Shinto shrine, and sometimes in other
places. This, too, is credited with power to avert evil, more especially
small-pox, cholera, and other infectious diseases.

For the go-hei, or paper emblems, see Glossary at the end of this
Introduction.

The distinction between what are termed respectively Eyobu and Pure
Shintd arose from the fact that the doctrines of metempsychosis and
universal perfectibility taught by Buddhism naturally made it tolerant of
other creeds, and willing to afford hospitality to their gods in its own
pantheon. Hence the early Buddhist teachers of the Japanese nation
were led to regard the aboriginal Shinto gods and goddesses as incarnations
or avatars— the Japanese term is f/oji^en, signifying literally "temporary
manifestations" — of some of the many myriads of Buddhas. Thus was
formed a mixed system, known as liyobu Shinto or i::-hin-Bulsu Konkd, which
lasted throughout the Middle Ages. For a thousand y^ears the service of
most of the Shinto temples, except Ise and Izumo, was performed by
Buddhist priesls, and the temple architecture was deeply affected by Biid-
dhist (that is, Indian) principles, — witness the elaborate carvings, the form
of the two-storied samwon, or outer gate, and even the pagoda itself , which,
though essentially Buddhistic, was found in the most popular Shinto
shrines. In several cases, for instance Kompira and Hachiman, the so-
called Shinto deities worshipped were probably unknown in pre-Buddhist
ages, and owed their origin to priestly ingenuity. This cmious state of
things began to totter more than a century ago, under the attacks of a
school of enthusiastically patriotic literati who re%'ived the ancient
traditions of "pure Shinto." When the revolution of 18G8 occurred, and
restored the Mikado's authority, these old traditions, amongst which the
divine right of the sovereign was one of the most important, became
paramount. It was for a time hoped that Buddliism might be suppressed,
and Shinto estabUshed as the sole national religion ; but the extreme party
was in the end not allowed to have its way. The reform was limited to
the complete separation of the two religions, and the Buddhist priests were
expelled from the Shinto temples, which they had so long " contaminated"
by their sway. All buildings, such as pagodas, belfi'ies, and richly
decorated shrines, that did not properly belong to the Shinto establishment
were removed, many precious structures being thus destroyed by " purify-
ing " zeal. In consequence of all this, the modern visitor to Japan loses
much that deUghted the eyes of those who came a quarter of a century
ago. To quote but a single example, the temple of Hachiman at
Kamakura has been despoiled of its chief beauty. On the other hand, he
has better opportunities for familiarising himself with the style of " pure
Shinto," which, if severely simple, is at least uniqtie in the world, one of
the few things Japanese not borrowed from China.

Japanese Buddhism. 41

2]. — Japanese Buddhism.

Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the
6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been
erected about A. D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of Japa-
nese Buddhism was Shotoku Taishi, prince regent under the Empress
Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most celebrated tem-
ples date. Thenceforward, though Shinto was never entirely suppressed.
Buddhism became for centuries the popular national religion, appealing
as it did to the deepest instincts of the human heart, both by its doctrine
and by its ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism
was adopted by the very llikados, descendants of the Shintd Goddess of
the Sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese
monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as
Christian missionaries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it
became more usual for the Japanese monks to visit China, in order to
study the doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head.
From these historical circumstances results the general adhesion of the
Japanese Buddhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle " school
of that religion (Sanskrit, Mahdydna ; Jap. Daijo), in whose teachings the
simple morality of Southern Buddhism, as practised in Ceylon and Siam,
is overlaid with many mystical and ceremonial observances. It must not
be supposed, however, that all Japanese Buddhists agree among them-
selves. Bviddliism was already over a thousand years old when introduced
into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, was spKt into
numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quarrels took new root on Japanese
soil. Some of the Chinese sects of that early day still survive ; such are
the Tendai and the Sh'mgon. Others, notably the Nkhiren and Shin sects,
are later Japanese developments. The following are the chief denomina-
tions existing at the present day, classed in the order of their numerical
importance : —

, Rinzai (10 sub-sects).

Zen, divided into-j Soto.

Obaku.

Shin or Monio (10 sub-sects).

Shingon (2 sub-sects).

Jodo (2 sub-sects).

JVichiren or Hokke (8 sub-sects).

Tendai (3 sub-sects).

The points in dispute between the sects are highly metaphysical and
technical, — so much so that Sir Ernest Satow, speaking of the Shingon
sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to comprehend,
and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another sect he
tells us that its " highest truths are considered to be incomprehensible,
except to those who have attained to Buddhaship."*

* The following may serve as a specimeu of the difficulties to be encountered in
this study : — "The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which the
teaching of Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of the
individual, corrected by the opinion of other mouks, is the woof. It is held that
there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called Shin-gyO, suggested by the
words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to be in
harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in
one central truth, namely that Nirviina is the final result of existence, a state in
which the thinking substunce, while remaining individual, is unaftected by anything

42 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism.

Under these circumstances, the general reader %vill perhajis do best
simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that
Biiddhism arose in India, some say in tlie 7th, others in the 11th, centnry
before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka ilnni, a prince of
the blood royal, who. disenchanted first of worldly pleasures and then of
the austeiities which he practised for long years in the Himalayan
wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denj'ing anchorites of
his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth that all happiness
and salvation come fi-om within. — come from the recognition of the
impermanence of all phenomena, fi'om the extinction of desire which
is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of all sorrow and
imperfection. Asceticism still reigned supreme ; but it M-as asceticism
rather of the mind than of outward observances, and its ultimate object
was absorption into Nirvana, which some interpret to mean annihilation,
while others describe it as a state in which the thinMug substance, after
numerous transmigi'ations and progi-essive sanctification, attains to
})erfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Neither in China nor in Japan
has practical Buddhism been able to maintain itself at these philosophic
heights ; but by the aid of hohen, or pious devices, the priesthood has
played into the hands of poiiular superstition. Here as elsewhere there
have been evolved charms, amulets, pilgiimages, and gorgeous temple
services, in which people woi-ship not only the Buddha who was himself
an agnostic, but his disciples and even such abstractions as Amida,
which are mistaken for actual divine personages.

Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami near
Tokyo, which may be regardetl as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhist
architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, forming
a contrast to the primitive thatch of Shinto places of worship. The chief
features are as follows :

1. The Samvion, or two-storied Gate, at the entrance to the temple
enclosure.

2. The Ema-do, or Ex-voto Hall, also called Qaku-dn.

3. The Shoro, or Belfry.

4. The Hondo, or Main Temple.

5. The Soshi-do, or Founders Hall, dedicated to Nichiren, the
founder of the sect to which this temple belongs.

6. The TaJto-to, or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary, containing portions of
Nichiren's body, hence also called Eotsu-do-, or Hall of the Bones.

7. The liinzo, or Revolving Library, liolding a complete copy of the
Buddhist canon.

external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the
name of Mu-i (Asa/dskj-ita) is given, s^ignifying absolute, unconditioned existence.
When this is spoken of as annihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the
substance, that is meant. Pushed to it.s logical result, this would appear to the
ignorant (i.e. the unregenerate) to amount to the same thing as non-existence : but
here we are encountered by one of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all
religious belief, and which must be accepted without questioning, if there is to be
any spiritual religion at all. A follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object
that this is an ' illegitimate symbolical conception.'

"Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by hohen, that is, by the presenta-
tion of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects Shaka,
quitting the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed
the truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their proper
order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the in-
ferior intelligence can only arrive at that condition after 100 Kalpas, or periods of
time transcending calculation." — (S.\tow.)

AO.I)": =IO ajSM3T T2i

-f <^sm.^l^--r-f

••■ {^^

Jo pa 1 1 e^i' B uddh is n i .

8. The Hojo, also called Slioin or Zashiki, the Priests' Apartruents.

9. The Kyaku-den, or Reception Eooms.

10. The IIozo, or Treasure-house.

11. The Dai-dokoro, or Kitchen.

12. The Chozu-bachi, or Cistern for washing the hands before worship.

13. The Drum-tower (Kord).

14. The Pagoda {Go-ju no to).

15. Stone Lanterns (Ishi-ddro), presented as offerings.

All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall, and very few possess a
Taho-to or a Rinzn. In the temples of the Monto or Hongwanji sect,
which almost always comprise two principal edifices, the larger of the two
unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and Foiinder's Hall, while
the lesser, with which it is connected Ijy a c-overed gallery, is sometimes
specially dedicated to Amidu, the deity chiefly worshipped l)y this sect,
and is sometimes i^sed for preaching sermons in, whence the name of
Jiki-dd, or Eefectory, alluding to the idea that sermons are food for the
soul. A set of Buddhist buildings, with pagoda, belfry, etc., aU complete,
is often called a Shichi-do Garan. The termination ji, which occiu's in so
many tenqJe names, means " Buddhist temple " in Chinese ; the current
Japanese word is iera. Most Biiddhist temples have alternative names
ending in san and in.

Many temples have what is called an Oku-no-in. — a Holy of Holies,
so to sa3% which is generally situated behind the main shrine, and
often a long way up the mountain at whose foot
buildings cluster. Most Oku-no-in are less highly
the temples to which they belong ; some indeed
^_^^^ Where Shinto influence has prevailed,

termed Oku-shu. Sometimes there is an inter-
niechate shrine called Chil-in or Chu-slm.

The ceremony of throwing open to the
gaze of worshippers the shrine which holds
the image of the patron saint is called
Kai-cho, and is usually accomjjanied by a
short service. Pictures of the god, together
with holy inscriptions (o fuda) and charms
[mamori), are sold at man}^ temples. The
specimens hei'e ligTu-ed are from the gi-eat
shrine of Fudo at Narita. Sometimes cheap
miniature reprints of Buddhist sutras are
offered for sale, bimdles of straws or sticks
used as counters by those j)prforming what
is termed the Uyaku-do, that is the pious
act c>f walking Tip and clown the temple cotirt
a hundred times, etc., etc. The little wisps
of paper often to be seen on the grating of
minor shrines are tied there by devotees in
token of a vow or a wish, mostly connected
mth the tender passion. The flocks of doves
seen fluttering about many temple coiirts are
not objects of worship. They simply take
up their home where piety secures them from
^ifpi molestation. >

^1ly\r^ An object frequently seen in Buddhist temple grounds

is the soioba or toba, a coiimx^tion of the Sanskrit stiipa

the other temple
ornamented than

are mere sheds,
the Oku-no-iu is

Introduciion : — Gods and Goddei^ses.

(" tope "), which "was originally a memorial erected over the remains of
an Mdian saint. In Japan it assumes two forms, one being a thin
stick, notched and often inscribed with Sanskrit characters, the other a
stone monument in common use as a ga-aye-stone, where the com-
ponent elements of the structure are more clearly indicated. They are
the ball, crescent, pyramid, sphere, and cube, symbohsing respectively
Ether, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. One glance at a soioba is said to

ensure the forgiveness of all sins.

The way up to temples or sacred
moivntains is frequently marked by
oblong stones, like mile-stones, at the
interval of a cho, inscribed as fol-
lows : — Ef]" (or — T"); OI16 cho ; ZlHI,
two cho, etc.

Stones with inscriptions, for
which wooden boards are often sub-
stituted, also serve to commemorate
gifts of money to the temple, or of
trees to ornament the grounds. Irre-
gularly shaped slabs of stone are
mTich prized by the Japanese, who
use them as monumental tablets.

All the famous holy places have
subsidiary or representative temples
(utsusld or de-hari) in vaiioTis parts
of the empire, for the convenience of
those worshippers who cannot make
the actual pilga-image. The shrine
of the Narita Fudo at Asakusa in
T5kyo is a familiar example.

One, alas ! of the characteristic
features of the Buddhist temples of
to-day is the decay into which most
of them have fallen, not because of
any general conversion to Christianity, but owing to the disendowment
of the priesthood and the materiaUstic tendencies of the age. The wooden
architecture of Japan, so attractive when fresh, at once becomes dowdy
and ramshackle under neglect,— not venerable like the stone ruins of
Europe.

22. — List of Gods and Goddesses.

THE SOTOBA

(in its iico shapes)

The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto.
They are placed together in one Ust, because throughout Japanese history
there has been more or less confusion between the two religions : —

AizEN My6-6, a deity represented with a fierce expression, a flaming
halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly regarded as
the God of Love. Anderson describes him as " a transformation of
Atchala the Insatiable."

Ama-terasxj, lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Goddess.
Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, when the latter was
performing his ablutions on returning from a visit to his dead wife Iza-
nami in Hades, the Sun-Goddess was herseK the ancestress of the
Imperial Family of Japan. I'he most striking episode in her legend is

Gods and Goddesses.

'I he origin
kaijxtra is
the native
which the

that in which she is insulted by her

brother Susa-no-o, and retires in high

dudgeon to a cavern, thus phmging the

whole world in darkness. All the other

gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's

mouth, with music and dancing. At length

curiosity lures her to the door, and she

is finally enticed out by the sight of her

own fair image in a mirror, which one

of the gods pushes towards her.

of the sacred dances called

traced to this incident by

literati. Other names Tinder

Sun-Goddess is known are Sh'vmmei, Ten

iShoko Da'ijln, and IJinjingic.

Amida (Sanskrit, AmUabh'i), a powerful

deity dwelling in a lovely paradise to the

west. Originally Amida was an abstrac-
tion,— the ideal of boundless light. His

image may generally be recognised by the

hands lying on the lap, with the thumbs

placed end to end. Very often, too, the

halo (golcd) forms a background, not only to

the head but to the entire body, and is then

termed funa-goko, from its resemblance in

shape to a boat. The spot on the forehead

is emblematical of wisdom. The great im-
age {Daibuisu) at Kamakura represents this deity.

seishi are often

lowers of Amida. — 'Ihe name Amula is
^ sometimes shortened to Mida.

""'-—rOv Anan (Sansla-it, AwiwJa), one of

v^J Buddha's cousins and earliest converts.

He is often called Tamon (^^fl), lit.
"hearing much," on accoiint of his
extensive loiowledge and wonderful
memory, — a name which is also applied
to Bishamon.

Atago, a god worshipped as the
protector of towns against fire. He
is an avatar of the Creatress Izanami
and of her last-born child Ho-musubi
(also called Kagu-tsuchi), the Shinto
god of fire, whose entry into the world
caused her death.

Bknten, or Benzaiten, one of the
Seven Deities of Luck. She is often
represented riding on a serpent or
dragon, whence perhaps the sacred
character attributed in many localities
to snakes. Benten's shrines are most-
ly situated on islands.

BiNzuEU, originally one of the
" Sixteen Kakan," was expelled from

Kwannon and Dai-
represented as fol-

Inlrodudion : — God.s and Goddessif

tbeir number iov having violnteil his vow of chastity by reniarking \\\wn
the beauty of a female, whence the usual situation of his image outside the
sanctum. It is also said that Budilha conferred on him the power to cure
all human ills. For this reason, believers rub the image of Binzurii on
that part which may be causing them pain in their own bodies, and
then rub themselves in the hope of obtaining relief ; and thus it comes
about that such images we often found with the limbs partly M'orn away.
and the features nearly obliterated. Binzuru is a highly popular object
of worship A\'ith the lower classes, and his image is often to he seen
adorned by his devotees with a red or jellow cotton hood, a bib and
mittens.

BisHAMox (Sanskrit, Vdisvirnmia), explivined in Eitel's Hand-hook of
Chinese Buddhism as the God of Wealth, has been adopted by the Japanese
as one of their Seven Gods of Luck, with the special characteristic of
impersonating war. Hence he is represented as clad in armour and
bearing a spear, as well sis a toy jiagoda.
BoNTEX, Brahma.

BosATsu (Sanskrit, Bodhisaitva), the general title of a large class of
Buddhist saints, who ha^e only to pass through one more human existence
before attaining to Buddhahood. The " Twenty-Five Bosatsu " (NL-jfi-go
Bosatsu), specially worshipped and frequently represented in art, are sup-
poseil to be sent bj"^ Buddha himself as giiarthan spirits to watch over
earnest behevers. The list includes Kwannon, Daiseishi, Fugen, Kokuzo,
and a number of less well-known di^inities.
BuTsu, see Ilotoke.

Daikoku, the God of Wealth, may be Icnown by his rice-bales. Popular
Japanese art, which exhibits little awe of things divine, represents these
bales being nibbled at by a rat.

Daixichi Nyobai (Sanskrit, VCiirutchana TatliCujatu) is one of the
persons of the Triratna, or Buddhist Trinity, the personification of wisdom

and of absolute purit}^ He is
popiilarly confounded with Fudo,
the images of the two lieing diffi-
cult to fUstinguish.

Daiseishi or Seishi, a Bosatsu
belonging to the retinue of
Amida.

Daishi, a title which i.^
jipplied to many Buddhist abbots
and saints. It means either "Great
Teacher." or "Perfected Saint"
(vSanskiit Malidsatlva), according
to the Chinese characters used to
write it.

Daeuma (Sanskrit, Dharma),,
a deified Indian Buddhist patriarch
of the 6th century, who sat for
nine years in profound abstrac-
tion till his legs rotted away and
fell off.
DAEUMA. D6.SOJIN, the God of Roads.

Ebisu, one of the Gods of
liuck, is the patron of honest lalwur. He bears in his hand a fishing-rod
and a /ai-fish.

Go(h and Goddesses.

Emma-0 (Sanskiit, Ydmn-rdja), the regent of the Buddhist hells.
He may be known by his cap resembling a jiidge's beret, and by the huge

c#M£

EMMA-O.

mace in his right hand. Before him often sit two myrmidons, one of
whom holds a pen to Avrite dov.-n the sins of hnuian beings, while the
other reads ont the list of their offences from a scroll.

Fu-Daishi, a deified Chinese priest of the 6th century, is represented
in art seated between his tv/o sons Fuken and Fnjo, who clap their hands
and lar.gh, and hence are popularly Icnown as Warn-^)Oioke, or the Laugh-
ing Br.ddhas. Fn-Daishi is the reputed inventor of the Fanzo, or Eevolving
Library, which is attached to some Buddhist temples. It is a recei^tacle
large enough to hold a complete collection of the Buddhist scriptixres, but
turning so easily on a pivot as to be readily made to revolve by one
vigorous push. A native authority says : " Owing to the voiuminousness
of the sutras, — 6,771 volumes, — it is impossible for any single individual to
read them through, l^ut a degree of merit equal to that accruing to him
^^■ho should have perused the entire canon, may be obtained by those who
will cause this Library to revolve three times on its axis ; and moreover
long life, prosperity, and the ;',voidance of all misfortunes shall be their
reward."

Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses.

FUDO
WITH SEITAKA AND KONGAEA DOJI.

EuDO (SaBskrit, Achala). Mucli
obscurity hangs over tbe origin and
attributes of this popular divinity.
According to Monier Williams,
A eh tin, y^hicl^ means "immovable"
{Fadd 7f.<t^}j translates this meaning
exactly), is a name of tlie Brahminic-
al god Siva and of the tirst of the
nine deitied persons called " white
Balas" among the Jainas. Satow
says: — " Fudo (Akshnra) is identilied
with Dainichi (Vaiio.tana), the God
of Wisdom, which quality is sym-
bolised by the flames which surround
him : it is a common error to suppose
that he is the God of Fire. Accorthng
to the popular view, the sharp sword
which he grasps in the right hand
is to frighten evil-doers, while in his
left hand he holds a rope to bind
them with." — Fudo is generally re-
presented in art attended by his two
chief followers, Seitaka Doji and
Kongara Doji.

FuGKN (Sanskrit, Samantahhadra)
is the special divine patron of those
who practise the Ilokke-znrimiai, a
species of ecstatic meditation. His
image is generally seated on the
right hand of Shaka.

FuKUKOKTJJu, one of the Gods of
Luck, is distinguished by a preter-
naturally long head, and typifies
longevity and wisdom.

Go-CHI Nyobai, the Five Bud-
dhas of Contemplation or of Wisdom,
viz., Yakushi, 'I'aho, Dainichi, Ashu-
ku, and Shaka. But some authori-
ties make a different enumeration.

GoNGEN. This is not the name
of any special divinity, but a general
term used in Eyobii Shinto (see p.
4U) to denote siich Shinto gods as
are considered to be " temporary
manifestations," that is, avatars or
incarnations of Buddhas. It is,
however, applied with special fre-
quency to leyasu, the deified founder
of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns,
who is the Gongen Sama, that is,
Lord Gongen pa7- excellence.

Gwakko Bosatsu, a Buddhist
lunar deity.

Hachiman, the Chinese_ name
under which the Emi)eror Ojin is

Gods and Goddesses.

worsliipped as the God of War, the Japanese equivalent being Yawata
The reason for this particular form of apotheosis is not apparent, as no
warlike exploits are recounted of the monarch in question. Perhaps it
may be owing to the tradition that his mother, the Empress Jingo
earned him tor three years in her womb whilst maldng her celebrated
raid upon Korea. Another explanation, suggested by Sir Ernest Satow,
IS that his high position m the pantheon resulted from the fact of his
having been the patron of the powerful and warlike Minamoto clan

HoTEi^ one of the Seven Gods of Luck, typilies contentment and good-
nature. He IS represented m art with an enormous naked abdomen

_ HoTOKE, the general name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or perfected
saints of popular Buddhism. The dead are also often spoken of as

Ida Ten (Sanskrit, Veda luija), a

protector of Buddhism, generally
represented as a strong and
handsome youth.

Inabi, the Goddess of Eice,
also called Uga-no-Mitama. The
image of the fox, which is always
found in temples dedicated to
Inaii, seems to have been first
placed there as a tribute to the
fear which that wily beast in-
spires ; but in popular super-
stition, Inari is the fox-deity.
There is some confusion with
regard to the sex of Inari, who
is occasionally represented as a
bearded man.

IzANAGi and IzANAMi, the Crea-
tor and Creatress of Japan. The
curious though indelicate legend
of their courtship, the striking legend
of the descent of Izanagi into Hades
to visit Izanami after the latter's
death and burial, and the account of
Izanagi's lustrations, will be found in
pp. _ 18-43 of the translation of the
Kojiki, forming the Supplement to
Vol. X. of the Transactions of the
Asiatic Society of Japan.

Jizo (Sanskrit, Kshitigarhha), the
compassionate Buddhist helper of
those who are in trouble. He is the
patron of travellers, of pregnant wo-
men, and of cliildren. His image is
often heaped with pebbles, which serve
in the other world to relieve the labours
of the young who have been robbed of
their clothes by the hag named Sho-
zuka no Baba, and then set by her
to perform the entUess task of piling up
stones on the bank of Sai-no-Kawara,

50 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.

the BitdcUiist Styx. Jizo ii? represented as a shaven priest with a bene-
volent countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a
staff with metal rings {.ihakujo). His stone image is found more
frequently than that of any other object of worshiiJ throughout the
empu'e. It need scarcely be said that the resemblance in sound
between the names Jizd and Jesus is quite fortuitous.

JuKOJiN, one of the Gods of Lxick, often represented as accomi^anied
by a stag and a crane.

Kami, a general name for all Shinto gods and goddesses.
Kaseo (Sanskrit, KCisyapa), one of Buddha's foremost (hsciples. He
is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in conse<iuence whereof his
body became radiant like gold.

KisHi BojiN, the Indian goddess ITariil or Aritl, was originally a
woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at Kajagriha, the
metropolis of Buddhism, was born again as a demon and gave birth to five
hundred children, one of Avhom she was bound to devour every day. She
was converted by Buddha, and entered a nunnery. The Japanese wor-
ship her as the protecti'ess of children. She is represented as a beauti-
ful \\oman, caiTying a child, and holding a pomegi-anate in one hand.
The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are
marked with the crest of the pomegranate. This emblem illustrates the
curious turns sometimes tidcen by popular legend. 'The red h\ie of the
pomegranate might suggest to natural fancy red blood and hence human
llesh. But we are told that Buddha cured the woman of cannibalism
by a diet of pomegranates, because that fruit resembles human flesh in
taste. Tlie offerings brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such
as may well touch any heart,— the dresses, dolls, and other mementos of
their lost darlings.

KoKUzo BosATSC (Sanskrit, Alaisha Bodhisattcn), an infinitely wise
female saint, who dwells in s^jace.

KoMPiEA (Sanslait, Kumblnra). Much obscurity shrouds the origin
and nattire of thif highly popular divinity. According to some he is a
demon, the crocodile or alligator of the Ganges. Others aver that Shaka
]Muni (Buddha) himself became " the boy Kompira," in order to over-
come the heretics and enemies of religion who jjressed iipon him one day
as he was preaching in " the Garden of Delight,"- the said " boy
Kompira " having a body 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1,000 heads and
1,0C0 arms. The mediaeval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o,
brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been de-
clared, on the part of the Shintd authorities whose cause the Government
espouses in all such disjiutes, that the Inchau Kompira is none other
than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese deity
whose name has a convenient similarity in sound.
Consequently the great Buddhist shrine of Komjiira
in the island of Shikoku, and all the other shrines
erected to Kompira throughout the country, have
been claimed and taken over as Shinto property.
Komx)ii'a is a special object of devotion to seamen
and travellers.

KosHiN, a deification of that day of the month

which corresponds to the 57th term of the Chinese

sexagesimal circle, and is called in Japanese Ka-no-e

Sura. This being the day of the Monkey, it is

(koshin) represented by three monkeys {sam-hiki-zaru) called

Gods and Goddesses.

52 I)if rod action : — Crods and Goddesses.

respectively, l>y a pla^' upon words, mi-zaru, kika-zaru, and iwa-zarxi,
that is, " the blind monkey," " the deaf monkey," and " the dumb
monkey." Stone slabs with these three monkeys in rehef are among the
most iTSual objects of devotion met with on the roadside in the rural
districts of Japan, the idea being that this curious triad will neither see,
hear, nor speak any evil.

Ktjni-toko-tachi, lit. " The Earthly Eternally Standing One."
This deity, with Izanagi, Izanami, and four others, helps to form what are
termed " the Seven Divine Generations " ( Tenjin Shk-hi-dai).

KwAMNON, or more fully Kwanze-oa Dai .Bosafsu^Sanskrit, Avalokltes-
rara), the Goddess of Mercy, who contemplates the world and listens to
the prayers of the unhappy. According to another but less favomite
opinion, Kwannon belongs to the male sex. Kwannon is rejaresented
luider various forms — many-headed, headed like a horse, thousand-handed.
With reference to the images of this deity, it should be stated that the
so-called Thousand-Handed Kwannon has in reahty but forty hands
which hold out a number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-tlower,
the wheel of the law, the sun and moon, a skiill. a pagoda, and an axe, —
this last serving to typify severance from all woi'ldly cares. A pair of
hands folded on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant jiriest.
The Horse-Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a
horse's head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One
of the foui' pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude
called Eenge no In, emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds
the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tokko
(Sanskrit, vcijra), an ornament originally designed to represent a dia-
mond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre
symbolising the irresistible xjower of prayei', meditation, and incantation.
Of the fourth pair of hands, the left holds a cord wherewith to bind the
wicked, W'hile the right is stretched out open to indicate almsgiving or
succour to the weak and. erring. A title often apphed to Kwannon is
JSyo-i-rin, properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its
possessor to gratify all his desu'es, and which may be approximately
rendered by the adjective " omnijootent."

The two figures often represented on either side of Kwannon are
Fudd and Aizen Myo-6. The " Twenty-eight Followers " of Kwannon
{Ni-ju-hachi Bushu), — favomite subjects of the Japanese sculptor and
painter, — are personifications of the twenty-eight constellations known to
Far-Eastern astronomy. The various forms represented in the accom-
panying illustration are :

1. Sho-Kioannon (Kvrannon the Wise).

2. Ji'i-ichi-men Kivannon (Eleven-Faced).

3. Sen-ju Kwannon (Thousand-Handed).

4. Ba-to Kwannon (Horse-Headed),
o. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon (Omnipotent).

Makishi-ten (Sanskrit, Marlchi) is the iiersonification of light in the
Brahminical theology, and also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japa-
nese Buddhism, Maidshi-ten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven,
and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of
the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms,
two of which hold \\^ emblems of the sun and moon.

Maya Bunin, the mother of Buddha.

MrROKtr (Sansla-it, Mditreya), Buddha's successor, — ^the Buddhist
Messiah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after
Buddha's entry into Nirvana.

Goch and Goddesses.

5'd

MoNJu (Sanskrit, Manjusrl), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom.
His image is usually seated on the left hand of Shaka.

NiKKo BosATSu, a Buddhist solar deity.

Ni-o, lit " The Two Deva Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep
guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away demons. One

bears in his hand the ioklco. The figures of the Ni-6 arc of gigantic
size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets
of paper aimed at them by devotees, who think thus to seciire the
accomphshment of some desire on which they have set their hearts.

Nyokai (Sanslait, Tathdgata), an honorific title applied to all
Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (;^n), "like," and ?-ai (3^),
" to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming and going-
are in accordance with the action of his predecessors.

Onamuji or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re-
signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when they came
down from heaven to Japan. Tie is also worshipped under the titles of
Sanno and Hie.

Oni, a general name for demons, ogTes, or devils, — not " the Devil "
in the singular, as Japanese theology knows nothing of any supreme
Prince of Darlcness.

Rakan (Sanslait, ArhCtn, or Arliai), properly the perfected Arya or
'■ holy man," but used to designate not only the perfected saint, but
all Buddha's immediate disciples, more especially his " Five Hundred
Disciples" {Go-hyaku Bakan), and his "Sixteen Disciples" {Ju-roku
Bakan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and
sculptors. The holy men are repi'esented in vari<nas attitudes, many
emaciated and scantily clad.

Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.

RoKu-EU-TEN, a collective name for the Buddhist gods Bonten,
Taishaku, and the Shi-Tenno.

Sakuta-hiko, a Shinto deity who led the van when the divine
ancestors of the Mikado descended to take possession of Japan.

Sengen, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or
Ko-no-IIana-Saku-ya-Hime, that is, " the Princess who makes the Flowers
of the Trees to Blossom."

Shaka Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya 3Iuni, the name
of the founder of Buddhism, who was also called Gautama and is gene-
rally spoken of by Europeans as " Buddha," though it would be more
correct to say "the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taishi
(Sanskrit, 8iddhartha). His birth is usually placed by the Chinese and
Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European
scholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and
doctrine is that given by Professor Ehys Davids, in his Uttle work entitled
Buddhism, i^ublished by the Society for Promoting Christian Know-
ledge. The entombment of Buddha, with aU creation standing weeping
around, is a favourite motive of Japanese art. Such pictures are called
JSlehan-zo, that is, " Kepresentations of the Entry into Nirvana." The birth
of Buddha (tanjo-Shaka) is also often represented, the great teacher then
appearing as a naked infant with his right hand pointing up and his left
hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven and
earth. Our illustration gives the most usual form of his image. Though
not unlike that of Amida, it differs from the latter by the position of the
hand and the shape of the halo. The chief festivals of Shaka are on the
8th April (his birthday), and the 15th February (the anniversary of his death).

MONJU.

SHAKA MUNI.

Gods and Goddesses.

GODS OF LT'CK (SHKHI FUKVJIN).

56 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses.

Shaeihotsu (Sanskrit, S'driputtra), the wisest of Buddha's ten chief
disciples.

Shichi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely 1, Ebisu ; 2, Dai-
koku ; 3, Benten ; 4, Fukxu-okuju ; 5, Bishamon ; 6, Jurojin ; 7, Hotel.

Shi-Tenno, tiie Four Heavenly Kings, who guard the world against
the attacks of demons, each defenchng one quarter of the horizon. Theii
names are Jikokii, East (Sanskrit, Dhrilarashtra) ; Komoku, South
(Virupdksha) : Zocho, West ( Firwd/iafca) ; and Tamon— also called Bisha-
mon,— North ( Vdisravana or Kuvera). Their images differ from those of
the Ni-o by ha-s-ing weapons in their hands, and generally trampling
demons under foot. Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of
temples, but at an inner one.

Shoden. This deity, also called Kwangi-ten, is the Indian Ganesa,
God of Wisdom and Obstacles. " Though he causes obstacles, he also re-
moves them ; hence he is invoked at the commencement of undertakings.
He is represented as a short, fat man, with a jDrotuberant belly, fre-
quently riding on a rat or attended by one, and to denote his sagacity,
has the head of an elephant, which, however, has only one tusk." (Sir
Monier WUliams.)

Shozuka. no Baba. See Jizo.

SuiTENGU, a sea-god evolved by the popular consciousness from
Varuna the Buddhist Neptune, the Shinto sea-gods of Sumiyoshi near
Osaka, and the boy-emperor jVntoku, who found a watery grave at Dan-no-
ura, in A.D. 1185 (com. p. 70). _

Stjktjna-Bikona, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish
his rule over the land of Izumo, before the descent to earth of the
ancestors of the Mikados.

SusA-NO-o, lit. "the Imi^etuous Male." The name of this deity is
explained by the violent condiict which he exhibited towards his sister,
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he alarmed so terribly by his mad
freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator
Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, by
others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or mon-
archs of the province of Izumo, who finally renounced their claims to
sovereignty over any part of Japan in favour of the descendants of the
Sun-Goddess. Inada-Iiime, one of his many Mives, is often associated
with him as an object of worshij). Siisa-no-o is also styled Gozu Tenno,
" the Ox-headed Emj)eror," — a name apparently derived from that of a
certain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped.
The temples dedicated to Susa-no-o are called Gion or Yasaka. The
former are Buddhist or Eyobu Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines.

Taishaktj, the Brahminical god Indra.

Tamon, see Anan.

Ten, a title suffixed to the names of many Buddhist deities, and
equivalent to the Sanskrit Deva.

Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister
and scholar Sugawara-no-ilichizane, who, having fallen a victim to
calumny in A.D. 901, was degi'aded to the post of Vice-President of the
Dazaifu, or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that time a
usual form of banishment for illustrious criminals. He died in exile in
A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and disasters to his
enemies. He is worshipped as the God of CaUigraphy, other names for
him being Kan Shojo and Temmangu. He is represented in the robes of
an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated to him bear in several
places his crest of a conventional plum-blossom, — five circles grouped

Gods and Goddesses. Christian Mission Stations. 57

Toiind a smaller one. A recrimbent image of a cow fi'e(iueiitly adorns the
temple grounds, because Micliizane was wont to ride about on a cow in the
land of his exUe. A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, that
having been his favourite tree. Indeed, tradition avers that the most
beautifnl plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto flew after him through the air
to Dazaifu, where it is still shown.

Tennin (Sanskrit, Apsaras), Buddhist angels — always of the female
sex. They are represented floating in the air, clothed in bright-coloured
robes that often end in long feathers like the tails of the bird of paradise,
and playing on musical instruments.

TosndGfT, the name under which the great Shogun leyasu, also called
Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the 'J'emple (or Prince)
Illuminating the East," in allusion to the fact that leyasu's glory centred
in Eastern Japan.

ToYO-UKE-BiME, also Called Uke-mochi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess
of Food or of the Earth. The Nihongi, one of the two principal sources of
Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun- Goddess sent
the Moon-God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who,
turning her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the
mountains, produced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she
served up to him at a banquet. The Moon-God took offence at her feeding
him with unclean viands, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On
his reporting this act to the Sun- Goddess, the latter was very angry, and
secluded herself from him for the space of a day and night. From the
body of the murdered Earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms,
rice, barley, and beans, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth
be the food of the human race. In the Kojlki version of the myth, it is
Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences
of detail.

Yakushi Nyoeai (Sanslait. Bhaishajyaguru), lit. "the Heahng
Buddha." His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he is
called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's
present existence. The images of this deity are scarcely to be distingui-
shed from those of Shaka.

23. — Christian Mission Stations.

The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint
Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the
17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the embers continued to
smoulder, especially in the island of Kyiishu. The_ Catholic Church now
has an Archbishop at Tokyd, and Bishops at Osaka, Nagasaki, and
Hakodate, with a total following of nearly 54,000.

The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859. and
a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the
Empire. T5kyo and the Open Ports are the head-qiiarters of most of the
denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the
following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers
interested in Christian work.

The Church of Christ in Japan (Nikon Kirisuto Kyoktcai), which is an
amalgamation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the
largest number of members, over 10,000. Stations : — Aomori, Fuktii,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, Kochi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagano,
Nagoya, Okazaki. Osaka, Otaru, Saga, Sapporo, Sendai, Susaki,

58 ' Introduction: — Outline cf Japanese History.

Takamatsu, Takatsuki, Tanabe, Tokushima, Tsu, Ueda, Wakayama,
Yamaguclii.

The Eumi-ai Churches, working in co-operation ■«itli the American
Board's jMission, over 10,000 members. Stations : — Kyoto, ilaebashi,
Matsuyama, Miyazaki, Niigata, Okayama, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai,
Tstiyama.

The Nippon Sei Kokioai, including the missions of the Church of
England and of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America, 8,300.
Stations : — Aomori, Fiikuoka, Fukuyama, Gifu, Hamada, Hirosaki,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, Kokura, Knmamoto, Kushiro, Kyoto,
Maebashi, Matsue, Matsumoto, Nagano, Nagoya, Xara, Nobeoka, Oita,
Osaka, Otaru, Sapporo, Sendai, Tokushima, Tojohashi, Wakayama,
Yonago.

Methodist Churches, 9,"200. Stations : — Fukuoka, Hakodate, Hirosaki,
Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Kanazawa, K5fu, ilatsuyama, Nakatsu, Nagano,
Nagoya, (3ita, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai, Shizuoka, Uwajima, Yamaguchi.

Baptist Churches, neary 2,000. Stations : — Chofu, Fukuoka, Himeji,
Kokura, ilito, Nemm-o, Osaka, Sendai.

The above stations are those at which foreign missionaries reside.
Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller
denominations, chiefly American, are also represented, the total Pi-otes-
tant population in 1899 aggregating nearly 42,u00.

'rhe Orthodox Biissian Church has a ilourishing mission, whose head-
quarters are at Tokyo, claiming a following of o\ev 25,000.

24. — Outline of Japanese Histuky.

Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or
the period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of
trustworthy history, in the 5th century after Christ, finds the ilikados
— Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu —
already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied
by the Aino aborigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into
what had apparently hitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief
pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From
that time forward Japanese histoiy consists, broadly speaking, in the
rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while always pro-
fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the ^Mikado,
practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country.
By the end of the 12th centm-y, the old absolutism had been converted
into a feudalism, of which Yoritomo, the successful chieftain of the
house of ilinamoto family, became the acknowledged head under the
title of Shogun, which closely con:esi)onds in etymology and in signi-
fication to the Latin Imperator. Thus was inaugurated the dual system of
government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the llilcado supreme
in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old
capital Kyoto ; the Shogun with his great feudatories, his armed re-
tainers, and his M-ell-fiUed exchequer, ruling the whole empire fi-om
his new capital in Eastern Japan, — first Kamakura, then Yedo. Dming
the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of
Shoguns, the real jiower was in the hands of their chief retainers, the

Outline of Japanese Hidory. 59

Hojo family, — tlie political arrangement thus becoming n triple one.
The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the
Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, since which time
Japan has never been invaded by any foreign foe. The Ashikaga
line of Shoguns grasped the power which had fallen from the Hdjo's
hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts.
The second half of the 16th century was a period of anarchy, during
which two great soldiers of fortune who were not Shoguns — Nobunaga
and Hideyoshi — successively rose to supreme i)ower. Hideyoshi even
went so far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China,
an enterprise which was, however, interrupted by his death in A. D. 1598.
Tokugawa leyasu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, then succeeded in making
Japan his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who ruled the land in
profound peace from 1603 to 1888. Among the means resorted to for
securing this end, were the ejection of the Catholic missionaries and the
closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in
the empire at which any commiTnication with the outer world was per-
mitted, no Eu.ropean nation but the Dutch was allowed to trade there,
and even Dutch commerce was restricted within narrow limits. At last,
in 1853, the government of the United States sent a fleet under the com-
mand of Commodore Perry to insist on the abandonment of the Jax^anese
policy of isolation. This act of interference from the outside gave the
coup de grace to the Shogunate, which had previously been weakened by
internal discontent. It fell, and in its fall dragged down the Avhole fabric
of medi;eval Japanese civilisation. On the one hand, the filikado was
restored to the absolute power which had belonged to his ancestors cen-
turies before. On the other, Europeanism (if one may so jjhrase it)
became supreme in every branch of thought and activity. The natural
outcome of this has been the Europeanisation of the monarchy itself.
Not only has the Court adoj)ted foreign manners and etiquette, — it has
granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia ; and the Diet, as it is
termed, meets yearly. The tendency of this bodj^ has always been
towards radicalism.

The following are the chief dates of Japanese history :—

B.C.

^ / Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tenno 660

ot: A.D.

2 •§ J Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Jaj^au . . 97-113

i^'f2 I Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200

'^ ( First Chinese books brought to Japan 285

Buddhism introduced from Korea . 552

Shotoku Taishi patronises Buddhism . . . . 593-621

Grovernment remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan . . . . 600-800

Chinese calendar introduced . . . . 602

Fujiwara family predominant .. 670-1050

The Court resides at ISfara . . . . • - 70^-784:

First extant Japanese book published (A'oy/'fci) .. 712

Printing introduced . . . . . . . . 770

Kyoto made the capital 791

Invention of the Hiragana syllabary . . . . 809

Struggle between the houses of Taira and Minauiotu . . . . 1156-1185

Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate at Kamakura .. .. 1192

H6j5 family predominant 1205-1333

Eepulse of the Mongols 1274-1281

60 Introduction : — Outline of Japanese History.

Two rival lines of ilikados, the Northern and Sonthern Courts 1332-1392

Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 1338-1565

The Portuguese discover japan . . 1542

St. Francis Xavier anives in Japan . . . . . . 1549

First persecution of the Christians . 1 587

Yedo founded by leyasu 1590

Hideyoshi invades Korea 1592-1598

Battle of SeM-ga-hara . . 1600

Tokngawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868

Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624

The Dutch relegated to Deshima . . 1639

Kaenipfer visits Japan . . . . . 1690-92

Last eruption of Fuji • • 1708

Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853

Fii-st treaty signed with the United States ■ • 1854

(rreat earthquake at Yedo 1855

First treaties with European PoM^ers 1857-59

Yokohama opened 1858

First Japanese embassy sent abroad i860

Bombardment of Shi monoseki .. 1864

The Shogunate aboUshed and the Mikado restored . . . . 1868

Civil war between ImperifiJists and partisans of the Shogun . . 1868-69

The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) . . 1869

Abohtion of feudal system .. .. 1871

T5ky6-Yokohama railway opened . . . . . . • • • • . . 1872

Adoption of Gregorian calendar 1873

Expedition to Formosa . . . . 1874

Wearing of swords interdicted 1876

Satsuma rebeUion . . . .......... 1877

New Codes published 1880-98

Constitution promulgated 1889

First Diet met 1890

War with China .. .. .... 1894-5

Formosa added to the empire 1895

(lold standard iidopted . . . . . . 1897

New treaties come into operation, whereby all foreigners are

brought under Japanese law . . . . 1899

25. Jap.\nese Chronologic.ax T.4.bles.

The following tables, adiipted by permission from a little work
compiled many years ago by Sir Ernest Satow for private circulation,
will facilitate reference to Japanese historical dates,

Table I. gives the Japanese Nengo or " year-names,"* arranged
alphabetically, with the equivalent of each according to the Christian
calendar, the first number being the year in which the " year-name "
commenced, the second that in which it ended. Some few may appear
to be repetitions of each other, for instance, Ei-rek'i and Yo-ryaku, both
representing the period 1160-1. The reason of this is that the Chinese
characters ^flf , with which this " year-name " is written, admit of being

* See " Things Japanese," article Time.

Chronological Tables.

read in two ways, much as, among om-selves, some persons pronounce
the word "lieutenant" lyootenant, oihemlef tenant. The remaining tables
are self-explanatory, giving as they do, in alphabetical order, the names
of the Mikados, Shoguns, and Regents, with the dates of their reigns.
Note only that the alternative name of each Shogun is that conferred on
Mm posthumously. For instance, the ruler known to history as leyasu,
was, so to say, canonised under the title of Toshogu.

TABLE I.

The Japanese " Year-names."

An-ei

^77C

1772
1781

Bun-kwa

ICit

1804

Ch5-kwan

1163

1818

1165

An-gen

^7C

1175

Bun-kyu

■xx

1861
1864

Cho-kyu

1040
1044

1177

An-sei

1854
1860

Bun-5

-xm.

1260

Cho-reki

1037

1261

1040

An-tei

^M.

1227

Bun-reki

■^m

1234
1235

Cho-roku

1457
1460

1229

An-wa

908
970

Bim-roku

1592
1596

Ch6-sh5

^#c

1132
1135

Bum-mei

iscm

1469

BTin-sei

rSCi^

1818

Cho-toku

995

1487

1830

999

Bum-po

ISC^

1317

Bun-sho

^lE

1466
1467

Cho-wa

fifn

1012
1017

1319

Bun-an

■X'k

1444
1449

Buu-wa

^in

1352

1356

Dai-do

i^m

806

810

Bun-chu

%<^

1372
1375'

Cho-gen

Stc

1028

Dai-ei

^7TC

1521

1037

1528

Bun-ei

%7%

1264
1275

Cho-ho

999
1004

Dai-ho

■hm.

701
704

Bun-ji

%^^

1185
1190

Cho-ji

s?^

1104

Dai-ji

:kf^

1126

1106

1131

Bun-ki

^m.

1501

Ch5-ko

1487
1489

Dai-kwa

Afh

645

1504

650

Introduction :■ — Chronoloqical Tablea.

Ei-clio

7%&

1096

Em-po

1673

Gen-ko

7C3i.

1331

1097

1681

1334

Ei-en
Ei-ho

987

En-cho

mMi

923

Gen-kyu

TtX

1204 j

1206 1

980
1081

931

En-gen

myt

1336

Gen-nin

TCt

1224 1

^^ . 1084

1340

1225 i

Ei-ji

7Tcr^

1141

En-gi

901

Gen-6

Ttm.

1319

1142

923

1321 i

Ei-kyo

7lc#

1429
1441

En-kei

1308

Gen-roku

Ttm

1688 !

1311

1704 !

Ei-kyu

fk^

1113

En-kyo

1744

jGen-ryaku

Ttm

1184 ;
1185

1118

1748

Ei-kwan

7lcM

983

En-kyu

1069

1 Gen-toku

Ttm

1329

985

1074

1331

Ei-man

i5tK

1165

En-o

1239

Gen-wa

Tcin

1615

1166

1240

1624

Ei-nin

^^^ 1 1299

En-iyaku

782

Haku-cM

050

806

655

Ei-reki

7l<.M

1160
1161

En-toku

1489

i Haku-bd

673

149'-i

686

Ei-roku

1558

Gem-bun

TfX

1736

i Hei-ji

^?^

1150

1570

1741

1160

Ei-sho

7Tt7?i

1045
1053

Gen-chu

TC'f'

1384

Ho-an

1120

1393

1124

Ei-sh5

7l<.jF.

1504

Gen-ei

7C7l^

1118

: Ho-ei

K/Tc

1704 1

1621

1120

1711 !

Ei-so

n^^

989
990

Gen-ji

TCf^

1864

' H6-en

1135

1865

1141

Ei-toku

n<.Wi

1381

\ Gen-kei

TCg

877

iSrTC

1156
1159

1384

885

"Ei-vra

fkm

i 1375

Gen-ki

7C^

1570

Ho-ji

K?^

1247

1379

1573

1249

Em-bun

^■x

1356

Gen-ko

7C?

1321

i Ho-ki

R»

770

1361

1324

781

Chronological Tables.

H6-reki

Ho-tokii

Ji-an

'^^S

Jingo-
Keiiin

Jin-ki

Ji-reld

Ji-sli6

Jo-ei

Jo-cen

Jo-owan

Jo-ji

Jo-kyo

Jo-t)

Jo-wa

Ju-ei

Ka-ei

Ka-gen

1751

1761

1449

1452

1021

1U24

767

Ka-ho

770

1*1

'^^W-

M.fk

L7C

M.ilt

724:

729

1065
106y

1177

1181

1232

1233

976

978

859

877

1362

1368

1684

1688

?rH

^Tlt

^7C

1222
1224

1345
1350

1182
1185

1848
1854

1303
1306

Ka-j6

Ka-kei

Ka-kitsu

Ka-o

Ka-reki

Ka-roku

1094

1096

848

851

1387

1389

1441
1444

Ken-ei

1206
1207

Ken-gen

ITC

1302
13U3

Ken-ji

1169

1171

1326

1329

Ka-sli6

MW^

Ka-tei

Kei-an

Kei-clio

Kei-5

Kei-tm

Kem-mu

Kem-po

Ken-cbo

1225

1227

S48

851

1106

1108

1235

1238

1648

1652

1596

1615

1865
1868

704
708

1334
1338

1213
I2iy

1249
1256

Ken-kyu

1275
1278

1190
1199

Ken-nin

itn

1201
1204

Ken-
ryaku

1211
"12I3"

Ken-toku

1370
1372

K6-an

5L^

1278
1288

K6-an

1361
1362

Ko-cho

1261
1264

Ko-ei

SxK

1342
1345

Ko-gen

ETC

1256
1257

K6-hei

Ko-ho

K6-ji

Ko-ji

K6-koku

^pK:

mfi

5ifl

1058
1065

964
968

1142
1144

1555
1558

1340
1346

In trod u cf io n : — Chronological Tables.

Ko-kwa

U>it

1844 1

Kwan-ko

War

1004

1
Mei-reki

1655

1848 1

^^ 1012

1658

Ko-nin

^i=.

810

Kwan^Tiin

-K^

1017 1

Mei-toku

1390
1394

8-24

1021

Ko-o

mm.

1389

K-wan-o

WB.

1350 1
1352 ■

Mei-wa

1764

1390

1772

Ko-reki

1379

Kwan-sei

-K^

1789

Nim-pei

1151

1381

1801 1

1154

K6-Tokia

?«§

1528

Kwan-sho

KiE

1460

Nin-an

t^^

1166

1532

1466

1169

Ko-slio

KiE

1455

Kwan-

%^.

1044

Nin-ji

t^m

1240
1243

1457 toku

1046

K6-toku

?^.

1452

Kwan-wa

m?fl

085

987 1

Nin-ju

851
854

1455

Ko-wa

1099

Kyo-ho

?»

1716

Nin-wa

tim

885

1104

1736

889

Ko-wa

alia

1381

Kyo-toku

1452

O-an

1368
1375

1384

1455

Kwan-
bun

^5:

1661

Kyo-wa

^«

1801

O-cho

1311

1673

1804

1312

Kwam-pei

889

Kytt-iin

1145
1151

O-ei
0-ho

m.fk

1394

898

1428

Kwam-po

1741

Kyu-ju

1154

1161

1744

y ^

1156

1163

Kwan-ei

%77t

1624

Man-en

ts-zt: I860
^^ 1861

0-nin

Hit:

1467

1644

1469

Kwan-en

1748

Man-ji

■m^

1658

0-tokn

1084

1751

1661

1087

Kwan-gen

"Kit

1243

Man-ju

1024

O-wa

961

1247

1028

964

Kwan-ji

-Km

1087

Mei-ji

1868

Rei-ld

715

1U94

717

Kwan-ki

1229

Mei-o

1492

EeM-nin

\mfz

1238

1232

1501

1239

Ghrovological 7'ables.

Keld-o

1338

Sho-6

JEM

1288
1293

Tem-p6

1830

1342

1844

Sai-k5

854

Sho-o

7^B

1652

Tem-piikii

^ii

1233

857

1655

1234

Shi-toku

1384
1387

Slio-reki

JEM

990

Tem-pyo

729

995

749

Sho-an

1171
1175

Slio-reki

T^m

1077

Ten-an ^^

857

1081

859

Slio-an

iE^

1299

Sho-tai

i.^

898

i
Ten-cho ^-g;

824

1302

904

834

Sho-olio

JE^

1428

Slio-toku

7^m

1097

Ten-ei

^n<.

1110
1113

1429

1099

SliS-cliu

lE^

1324

Slio-toku

1711

Ten- en

j<m

973

1326

1716

976

Sho-gen

jEtc

1259

12B0

Sh<j-wa

;^?n

834
848

Ten-gen

^7C

978
983

Sho-gen

Tf^Tt

1207
1211

Sho-wa

■^m

1312
1317

Ten-ji

1124
1126

Sho-hei

7^^

931

938

Sliu-cho

XjCi^

686

Ten-ju

1375

701

1381

Slio-liei

iE^

1346

Sliu-jakii

672

Ten-ki

1053
1058

1370

672

Sho-ho

■m^

1074

Tai-ji

1126

Ten-nin

1108

1077

1131

1110

Slio-bo
Sho-ji

iE^^

1644

1648

1199

Tem-bnn

^■^

1532
1555

Ten-o

781

78:S

Temmei

1781

Ten-roku

970

1201

1789

973

Sho-ka

1257

Tempei-
Hoji

757

765

Ten-ryaku

'^m

947
957

1259

Sho-kei

.-Eg

1332

Tempei-
Jingo

765

767

Ten-slio

XtI^

1131

1333

113:^

Sho-kyu

Tf^X

1219
1222

Tempei-
Shobo

749

Ten-sh5

^JE

1573
1592

757

Inlroduction : — Chronological Tables.

Ten-toku

957

961

1681

1684

Ten-yo

1144

1145

Toku-ji

Wa-d5

Yo-ro

1306

1308

708

715

717

724

Yo-iyaku

Y6-SO

Y'^o-wa

fkM

TABLE n.

List of ^Mikados. t

Ankan

534

Gensho

715

Go-Komatsu *

1383
1392

535

723

Anko

454

Go-Daigo

1319

Go-Komatsii

1392

456

1339

1412

.Vnnei

548B.C.

Go-Enyu *

1372

Go-K6my6

1644

511B.C.

1382

1654

Antokii

1181

Go-Fiikakusa

1247

Go-jMiziino-o

1612

1185

1259

1629

Bidatsii

572

Go-Fushimi

1299

Go-Momozono

1771

585

1301

1779

Chuai

192

Go-Hanazono

1429

Go-Murakami

1319

2U0

1464

1368

Chukyo

1222

Go-Hoiikawa

1222

Go-Nara

1527

1222

1232

1557

Daigo

898
930

Go-Icliij6

1017

Go-Nij6

1302

1036

1308

Enyii

970

Go-Kameyama

1368
1392

Go-Reizei

1046

984

1068

Fushimi

1288

Go-Kasliiwa-
bara

1501

Go-Saga

1243

1298

1562

1246

Gemmyo

708

Go-K6gon *

1352

Go-Saiin

1655

715

1371

1663

t All those not marked B. C. are subsequent to the Christian era. Female
:Uikados are printed in italics. The sovereigns whose names are marked with an as-
terisk belonged to the Northern Court (see p. 72), and are excluded by modern
historians from the legitimate line of succession.

Chronological Tables.

fi7

Go-Sakura-

machi

1763

Jingo Kogo

201

Kokaku

1780
1817

1770

269

Go-San jo

1069

690

Koken

749

1073

696

758

Go-SMrakawa

1156

Jomei

629

Koko

885

887

1158

641

Go-Shujaku

1037

Junna

824

Komei

1847

1045

833

1866

Go-Toba

1186

Junnin

758

K6my5 *

1336

1198

764

1348

Go-Tsuchi-

mikado

1465

Juntokti

1211

Konin

770

1500

1221

781

Go-Uda

1275

Kaikwa

157B.C.

Kon-e

1142

1287

98B.C.

1155

Go-Y6zei

1587

Kameyama

1260

Korei

290BC.

1611

1274

215B.C.

Hanazono

1308

Keiko

Kosbo

475B.C.

1318

130

393B.C.

Hansei

406

Kenso

485

Kotoku

645

411

487

654

Heizei

806

Keitai

507

Kwammu

782

809

531

806

Higashiyama

1687

Kimmei

540

Kwazan

985

1709

571

986

Horikawa

1087

Koan

392B.C.
291B.C.

1630

1107

1643

Ichijo

987

Kobun

672

Mommu

697

1011

672

707

Ingyo

412

Kogen

214B.O

Momozono

1747

453

158B.C.

1762

Itokii

510B.C.
477B.C

Kdgyoku

642

Montoku

851

645

858

Jimmu

660B.C

Kogon *

1332

Murakami

947

585B.C.

1335

967

Introduction : — Chronological Tabhs.

Muretsu

49!)

Sakuramachi

1736

Suiko

593
628

nu5

1747

Nakanomikado

1710

Sanj5

1012

Svunin

2IBC.

17,J5

1U15

7( AD

Nijo

1159

Seimu

131

Suisei

581 B.C.

116o

19U

04'.)B.C.

Nimmyo

834

Seinei

480

Siijiin

588

850

484

592

Ninken

488
498

Seiwa

8=i9

Takaktira

1169

876

1180

Ninko

1817

Senkwa

530

Temmn

673

68J

lb4J

5JJ

Mntoku

313

Sbija

1233

Tenchi

668

399

1242

(.71

OgimacH

15.^8

Shirakawa

107:5

Toba

1108
1123

15813

1U81J

Ojin

270

Shoko

1411

Tsuchimikado

1199

31U

1428

1^10

Eeigen

1003

Slidrnu

724

Tsunuzashi

484
484

168(j

74»

Eeizei

968

SJwtolcu

765

Uda

8=^8

959

770

8J7

Kichu

400
405

Shukd *

1319

Yomei

586

1352

587

Kokujo

1106

Shnjalni

931
946

Yozei

877
884

1108

Saga

Rin

Shujin

97B.O.

Yuryaku

457

»23

3UBC.

■159

Saimei

655

Shiitoku

11>4

061

1141

Chronological Tables.

TABLE m.
List op Shoguns.

Hidetadxi (Taitoku-In)

IfiO.s

Morikuni

1308

i.i>-A.i

1333

n isaaHra

1-28!)

Moriyoshi

1333

13U8

1334

leharu (Sbimmei-In)

17fin

Miinetaka

r>b'2

126 J

lemitsu { Taiyu-In)

lfi'23

Nariyoshi

1334

lOSU

13J8

lemochi (Shotoku-In)

1858

Sanetomo

1203

1806

I2ly

lenari {Bunkyo-In)

1787

Takaiiji (Toji-In)

1338

18o8

1356

lenobu (DimsliS-In)

1700

Tsimayoslii (J6ken-In)

1680

17 IJ

iviy

lesada (Onkyo-Li)

1853

Yoriie

1902

1858

12U3

lesMge (Junshin-In)

1745

Yoritomo

1192

17UU

iiwy

letsugu (Yusho-In)

1713

Y'^oritsugu

1244

1716

1250

letsuna (Gen-yu-In)

IfiSl

Yoritsune

122G

1680

1243

leyasu (T6sh5-gu)

inrs

YoshiaH (Eeiyo-In)

1568

liJW5

lO'J?

leyoshi (Shintoku-In)

1838

Yoshiharu (Mansho-In)

J 521

1853

1546

KeiM

I8n7

Yoshihide (Daiclii-In)

1568

1868

.1568

Koreyasu

1266

Yoshihisa (J6toku-In)

1472

128'J

1489

Introduclion : — Gdebrated Pfn^onages.

Yoshikatsu (Keiun-In)

14n
1443

Y'^oshimxine (Yutokii-In)

17 IB
1745

Yoshikazu (Chotokti-In)

1423

Yosbinoii (Fuko-In)

1429

1425

1441

YoshiM

1490

Y'oshinori (Hokyo-Itt)

1358

14ii4

1367

Y'^oshimasu (Jislio-In)

1449

Yoshitane (Keirin-In)

1508

1472

1521

Yosliimitsu (Koknon-In)

1368

Yoshiteru (Kogen-In)

1548

1394

1565

Y'oshimochi (Shotei-In)

1394

Y'oshizumi (Hoju-In)

1494

1423

1508

TABLE IV.

List of the Regents {Shikken) of the Hojo Family.

ToMmasa

Born.
1136

Died.
1216

Tokimune

Apptd.
1261

Died.
1284

YoshitoM

Apptd.
1205

1227

Sadatoki

1284

1311

Y'^asutoki

1225

1242

MorotoM

1301

1311

Teunetoki

1243

1263

Takatoki

1312

1333

Tokiyori

1246

1263

26. — List of Celkbrated Personages.

The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book,
and Kkely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of historical
or artistic interest, may be found useful.

Akahito (flourished circa A.D. 700), one of the earliest great poets of
Japan. His full name was Yamabe-no-Akahito.

Antoku Tenno, an ill-fated infant Mikado, who perished at sea in
A.D. 1185, during the ciYil war waged between the great families of
Taira and llinamoto. (See also end of Boute 43).

AsAiNA Sabtjko (end of 12th century), one of Yoritomo's doughtiest
retainers, was distinguished by almost incredible physical strength. He!

Geleh'aled Personage^. 71

is represented in art as liurling gi'eat rocks with the same ease that he
flings stalwart rivals, and as swimming with a live shark under each arm.

Bakin (17G7-1848), the greatest novelist of modern Japan. His most
famous production is the " JIakkenden," or " Story of Eight Dogs." This
amazingly voluminous work (it fiUs no less than one hundred and six
volumes ! ) sets forth the adventures of eight heroes of semi-canine
parentage, who represent the eight cardinal virtues.

Benkei, or Musashi-b5 Benkf.i (12th century), was Yoshitaune's
famous henchman. How many of Benkei's achievements are historical, it
would be hard to say. According to the current version, he was eight feet
in height, strong as a hundred men, and had even in early years performed
so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni-waka, " the Devil
Youth." Having attempted to cut down Y'^oshitsune, then a mere stripling,
on the Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him his master in the art of fen-
cing, and was made to sue for quarter. So great was the veneration thus
inspired in his breast that he thenceforth attached himself to Y'^oshitsune's
fortunes and died battling in his cause. The fight between Y'oshitsune
and Benkei is a favourite subject with the artists of Japan. Another is
the subterfuge by which Benkei made way for his master and then* little
band through one of the barriers where, at that time, all travellers were
liable to be stopped. He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect
subscriptions for the building of a new temple, and therefore privileged to
travel free. The pictui'es represent him reading out his supposed
ecclesiastical commission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were
too ignorant of letters to chscover the feint. This story is the subject of
a popular drama called Kanjin-cho.

Boson (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the
Chinese school.

Chikamatsu Monzaemon (1653-1724) was Japan's foremost play-
wright. His dramas are still immensely popular.

Cho Densu (second half of 14th century), the greatest and most
original painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson the Fra
Angehco of Japan.

Date Masamune (1567-1G3G), Daimyo of Sendai, is chiefly remem-
bered for the embassy which he despatched to the Pope and to the King
of Spain in 1614 (Conf. Eoute 4, Section 6). Date was eminent as a
warrior, a diplomatist, and a patron of learning and art.

Dengyo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) was the first Buddhist
abbot of Hiei-zan, near Kyoto. He made a long sojourn in China for the
purpose of esoteric study, and brought back with him the doctrines of the
Tendai sect.

En no Shokaku was a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of
the 7th century, and the first human being to ascend Haku-san, Daisen,
Tateyama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his
mission to bring all such remote and inaccessible jjlaces xmder the sway
of Buddha. Having been slandered as a magician and condemned to
death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs and formula that
the swords of the executioners sent to behead him snajjped in pieces ; but
afterwards he flew away through the air, and was never again seen by
mortal eyes.

Enko Daishi (1133-1212) was bora of respectable parents in the
province of Mimasalca. At the age of nine he was entered as a pupil at a
seminary in his native province ; but his teacher, recognising his excep-
tional powers, sent him up to the great monastery on Hiei-zan in 1147,
'with a letter containing only these words : " I send you an image of the

72 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

great sage Monju." On the letter being presented, the priest to whom it was
addressed asketl where the image was, and was mnch astonished when the
child alone appeared before him. But the young novice soon justified the
implied estimate of his gTeat intellecttial powers, and made such rapid
progress in his studies that at the end of the same year he was judged fit
to be admitted to the priesthood. The prospect was held out to him of
ultimately obtaining the headship of the Tendai sect ; but he preferred to
devote himself to the study of theology, and finallj'^ developed a special
doctrine of salvation, or the road to the " Pure Land," from which the
new sect was named Jodo, this word having the same meaning as the
Sanslait !^i(kh<tvali or "Pure Land," the heaven of Amida. In 1'207 he
settled at Kyoto near the site of the present monastery of Chion-in, and
there breathed his last at the age of seventy-nine.

EsHiN (912-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor.

Fokty-Sevkn Eonins. 'Iheir story, too long to be told here, will be
found in Thhujn Jupancse.

Go-Daigo Tknno (reigned 1319-133!)) was a Mikado celebrated for his
misfortunes. At the beginning of his reign, the throne and the nation
were alilvc trampled under foot by the H6j6 "Regents " at Kamaknra, and
his endeavour to shake off tlieir domination only resulted, after much
shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the Old
Islands. When the lEjo fell in ISA'S under the sword of the loyalist warrior
Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled from exile. But the
times were not ripe for the abohtion of military rule, nor was Go-Daigo
wise in his choice of counsellors after his restoration. Ashikaga Takauji,
who had posed as the champion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so
much as to become Shogun himself, and bribed the Mik ido's concubine
Kado-ko to poison her lord's mind against those who had served him
most faithfully, and even against his own son, Piince Moriyoshi, who was
declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, and there murdered.
Go-Daigo repented of his folly and weakness when it was too late.
Takauji left Kyoto, a.nd the army sent to smite him received such a
crushing defeat that Go-Daigo was forced to seek safety in flight, 'there-
upon Takauji set another Mikado on the throne. But as Go-Daigo con-
tinued to be recognised by many as the rightful sovereign, the Mikadoate
was f-pht into two rival branches, called the Southern (legitimate) and the
Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty years of strife and misery, the
Northern Court triumphed in 13)2, the -representative of the Southern
dynasty handing over to it the Imperial regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an
early period of the struggle. His Court— if we may so call the mountain
fastness where he mostly encamped — was at Yoshino, whose position to
the south of Kyoto was the origin of the epithet " Southern " applied to
it by native historians.

Gyugi Bosatstj (G70-749), a Korean by birth, and a Euddliist abbot
and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only
with the invention of the potter's wheel, which was certainly used in
Japan before his time, but with a number of important wood-carvings and
other Vv'ovks of art. 'J he ware called after him, (Ti,dij)-y'<Jci, is earthen-
ware,— dark, glossy, very solid, having wave-lines in the interior, and on
the oiitnide a pattern resenibling the impression of matting.

Hachiman Taiio, lit. the First-Born of the God of War, was a famous
general of the end of the 1 1th century, whose real name was idnamoto-no-
Y^oshiie, and whose vigorous personality created the pre-eminence of the
Minamoto family. He it v/as who conquered Northern Japan (the part
beyond Sendai), and brought those hitherto barbarous provinces into

Cr.U'brdled Personages. 73

permanent subjection to tlie Imperial sway. Artists often depict an
episode in bis career wbicii showed his skill as a strategist, namely, his
discovery of an aujbush among the rushes which he infen-ed from the
disturbed flight of the wild-geese overhead. Like many oilier turbulent
spirits of that time, he forsook the world and became a Buddhist monk
at the approach of old age.

HiDAiJi JiNGOEo (151)1-1631), Japan's greatest carver m wood, was a
simple carpenter whose nickname of Ilklari arose fTom his being left-
handed. Among the best-known of his works are the carved gateway of
the Nishi Hongwanji temple in Kyoto, the vnnnia, or ventilating panels,
of the principal apartments in the same temple, and three carvings -two
of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and one of a sleeping cat— in
the mortuary shrine of leyasu at Nikko. 'Ihe notice attracted by his
labours was so gTeat that the architectural wood-carvers, whose artistic
efforts had previously been limited to the execution of geometrical designs
and conventional flowers, now came to be regarded as a body distinct
from the carpenters to whom they had hitherto been affiliated.

HiDEvosHi {15oG-15')8), commonly known as the TailvO Hideyoshi—
the word Tatko being a title indicative of exalted rank— has sometimes
been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn the
nickname of " Monkey Face," Hideyoshi worked his way up by sheer will,
hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most
trusty lieutenant ; and when that rider died in 15S2, Hideyoshi, having
slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch
of Japan with the title of Segent [Kwampaka], which till then had never
been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi earned out
many wise measures of internal policy, suchjis financial reform, the
improvement of the great cities of KyOto and Osaka, and the encourage-
ment of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and rivals
than his predecessor Nobunaga had been. His greatest failing was the
vidgar ambition of the purvtim. His dream was to conquer China and
become Emperor of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent
iin army across the straits to Korea under command of the celebrated
generals Kato Kiyomasa and Konishi Yukinaga- the latter a Christian,
as were many of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and
Japan nowise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawiil of
the Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow of
his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary.

HisuiGAWA MoKONOBU (flourished 1G8U-17U1) was the father of
artistic xylogTaj)hy.

HiTwMAKo (flourished circa A. D. 7C()) was one of Japan s earliest
great poets, and the rival of Aliidiito. His full name was Kjddnomoto-no-
Hitomaro.

HoKtisAi (17C)0-181!)) was the great leader of the popular or artisan
school of illustration.

Ikmiisu (IGri-KJol), the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, in-
herited the adiuinistrative ability of his grandfather leyasu, and devoted
his peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government established by
that prince, including the elaborate system of espionage touching which
early European v.'iiters on Japan haxveso much to say. To him is due the
rule accorcdng to which all the Daimyos were obliged to reside during half
the year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages during the
other half. It was also lemitsu who suppressed Christianity as dangerous
to the state, and closed up the country ugainst all foreigners except the
Dutch and Chinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki under

74 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

liiimiliating conditions. In fact, it was lemitsu who consolidated wnat we
call '■ Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of leyasu.

lEYAsrr (154:'2-lfiI6), one of the greatest generals and altogether the
greatest riiler that Japan has ever produced, was a samurai of the pro-
vince of Slikawa, and a scion of the noble family of IVIinamoto. His own
surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga and the
Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited by the latter's death in 15Jt8 to make war
on his infant son Hideyori, seized the great castle of Osaka, burnt the
Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and finally, in the
year 161)0, defeated all his enemies at the battle of Seki-ga-hara, a small
village in the province of Omi, now a station on the Tokaido Railway.
Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-quarters fi'om Shizuoka,
where they had been for many years, to Yedo, then an unimportant fish-
ing-village, which he chose on account of the strategic advantages of its
position. In 1603 he obtained from the faineant Court of Kyoto the title
of Shogun, which was borne b}^ his descendants during two and a half cen-
turies of unbroken peace, till Commodore Pen-y's arrival in 1853 led to the
revolution of 1868, and to the break-uj) of Japanese feudalism and duahsm.
The statecraft which caused so long a reign of peace under one dynasty to
take the place of the secular struggles between petty warring chieftains,
consisted jmncipally in maintaining a balance of power whereby the rival-
ries of the gi'eater Daimyos M-ere played off against each other, and in the
annexation to the Shogun's own domain, or to those of his nearest relatives,
of large strips of territory in all portions of the Empire. These served as
coigns of vantage, whence, in those days of difliciilt communication, the
actions of each Daimyo could more easily be controlled. leyasu held in
his own gi-asp aU the military resources of the country, and forced aU the
Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He Likewise had the
Court of Kyoto strictly guarded, — nominally as a protection for the sacred
JVIikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who
still retained the semblance of Imperial power, fi'om endeavouring to
shake ofl: the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the Shogun's
hands. leyasu fvirthermore built powerful strongholds, made new high-
ways, established a system of posts, and promulgated laws, which — if we
accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics and in the
family — were very wise, and which were in any case far in advance of
anything that Japan had previously known. When the government had
been established on a firm footing in 1605, leyasu followed the usual
Japanese custom of abdicating in favour of his son. He retired to Shizuokxi,
and spent the evening of his life in encouraging the renaissance of Japa-
nese literature which had just begun. To his munificence is o-wdng the
editio princeps of many an important work. His jiolitical testament,
known as the " Legacy of leyasu," embodied the rules of paternal govern-
ment by which his successors were ever to be guided ; but (owing perhaps
to the circumstance of its having long been kept from pubUc knowledge)
its authenticity has been doubted. leyasu was first buried at Kuno-zan,
not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful shrine on a castle-Like eminence
overlooking the sea. In the year 1617, his remains were removed to their
present still grander resting-place at Nikkd. The dynasty of Shoguns
founded by leyasu is called the Tokugawa dynasty, from the surname of
the family.

IsHiKAWA (lOEsioN (cud of 16th ccntury), the most notorious of
Japanese robbers, is credited with having possessed the physical strength
of thirty ordinary men. Being at last captured at the age of thirty-seven,
he and his young son Ichird were condemned to be boiled to death in a

Celebrated Fersonages. 75

tiauldron of oil, which sentence was carried out in the dry bed of the
Eamogawa at Kyoto. In accordance with custom, the criminal composed
a death-song, which ran as follows :

Ishikawa ya

Hama no ma sago ica
Tsukuru to mo,

Yo ni nusuhito no

Tane loa tsukimaji

which may be rendered thus, " Though the stony-bedded rivers {ishi-kawa,
a pun on his own name) and the sand on the sea-shore come to an end,
the line of thieves shall never come to an end."

IwASA Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the Ukiyo-e
Ryu, or "popular school" of Japanese art, which, abandoning the pre-
scribed subjects and conventional routine of the classical schools, under-
took to paint life as it is.

JiKAKTj Daishi (A.D. 794-864), a celebrated Buddhist abbot. Like
many others of his time and profession, he visited China in search of
rehgious and magical lore.

JiMMU Tenno, that is, the Emperor Jimmu, is accounted by the
Jax^anese annalists the first human sovereign of their country, which had
till then been ruled over by the Shinto gods. Jimmu Tenno was himseK
descended from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, and consequently semi-
divine. The orthodox account of his career is that, starting from Kyushu
in the extreme west of Japan, he rowed iip the Inland Sea witli a band
of devoted waiTiors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue
of the commission which he had received from Heaven. After much
fighting in vi'hat are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many
miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of one hundred and thirty-
seven, and was buried at Kashiwabara in Yamato, where his capital had
been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession
is the 11th February, 660 B.C., the anniversary of which day has been
made a pubhc holidaj-^ during the present reign, and ^w^.s chosen for the
promulgation of the new Constitution in 1889, evidently Math the desire to
strengthen the popular belief in the authenticity and continuity of Japa-
nese history. Jimmu Tenno and his successors during many centuries
have, however, been condemned as mj'ths by competent European in-
vestigators, though it is allowed that the Jimmu legend may possibly be
an echo of some actual invasion of Central Japan by western tribes of
adventurers in very early days.

Jingo K6g5, that is, the Euqjress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according
to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age
of one hundred ; but Mr. Aston, the leading authority on early Japanese
history, while not denying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis,
relegates most of her mighty deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend
connected with her is that of the conquest of Korea, to which country
she crossed over Tsith a gallant lleet, aided by the fishes both gi-eat and
small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after
receiving the abject submission of the king. During the three years of
her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojin, who is worship-
ped as Hachiman, the (lod of War. Next she turned her attention east-
wards, and going in her lieet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of
Yamato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has
been suspected that the two legends are but slightly varying versions of
the same story.

76 Introduction: — Gdchrated Personages.

JocHO, the most oripninal of Japan's mediroval Kculptors, floniished
during the reign of the Emperor Go-Ichijo (A.D. lOlT-K.So). He carved
Buddhist subjects.

JosETSxj (flourished about A.D. 14(0) was a priest and celebrated
painter. Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue.

Kagkkiyo (second half of 12th century) -was a famous warrior of the
Taira fau.ily, to whom various picturesque legends attach. On one occa-
sion he tlisgr.ised himself as a Buddhist priest, and took part in a grand
temple ser%'ice as an opportunity for atfeuipting the life of Yoritomo.
After the ruin of his party, he put out his own eyes in order not to see the
triumph of the rival house of Minamoto.

Kano, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which
originated in the 1 -th centmy and is not yet extinct. Its manner, which
appejirs highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes of the
Japanese. " The gi-eatest of these painters was Kano Motonobu (born 14^7).
Other noteworthy members of the family were K. Sh5ei, K. Eitoku, and
K. Sanraku (llith century \ K. Sansetsu, and especially K. Tan-yii.
K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, K. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu were also dis-
tinguished. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to the 17th
century. The Japanese custom of adoption is the key to the apparent
mystery of so many men similarly gifted arising in one family.

Kato Kivomasa was one of Hideyoshi's generals in the invasion of
Korea at the end of the lOth centiiry, and a tierce enemy of the Christians.
He is one of the most popular Japanese heroes, and is worshipped —
chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the name of Seisho K6.

Kesa Gozen (I •2th century) is the subject of a celebrated story.
ThoTigh she was already wedded to another, her beauty inspired an
amorous passion in the breast of a cousin only seventeen years of age,
who did not hesitate to demand her of her mother. Alarmed for her
mother's safety. Mesa Gozen feigned consent to his adulterous wishes, but
on condition that he would first kill her husband. Then taking her
husband's place in bed, she awaited the assassin. The cousin accordingly
entered the room at midnight, and carried into effect liis murderous
intent, but was so bonified on discovering who his victim was that he
forsook the world and became a monk, and finally a saint under the name
of Mongaku Shdnin.

Ktyomoki (UlS — llSl) was head of the great house of Taira during its
struggles with the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of
triumph which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. li'rom the
year 11 SH until his death, Kiyomori was Jill-powerful, engrossing all the
highest offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the palace
through his Idnswomen where boy JMikados succeeded each other like
shadows on the throne. To suit his own convenience, he changed the
capital for a time from Kyoto to Fukuwara near the site of modern l\6be,
— an act of high-handed aiitocracy v/hich was bitterly relented by the
courtier.-; and the nobility, who?e habits were interfered with and their
resources tased by the double move. While irritating the upper classes
by his nepotism and overbearing demeanour, he ground down the com-
mon people by his exactions, and endeavoured utterly to exterminate the
Minamoto family. The famous beauty Tokiwa Gozen, handmaiden to
Yoshitomo, was forced to yield to his embraces in order to save the life of
her infant, the future here Y'^oshitsune ; and every woman that pleased his
fancy ]iad to minister to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated
with him in vain. But the storm did not break in his time. He died in his
bed, leaving his whole house to perish four years later in a sea of blood.

Cehhraled Personages.

KoBO Daishi (774 — ^M), the most famons o£ all Japanese BnddliiRt
saints, was noted eqnally as preacher, painter, scnlptor, calligraphist, and
traveller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, he
could hardly have graven all the images, scaled all the mountain peaks,
confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and performed all
the other feats with which he is popularly credited. Byobtx-ga-ura, near
the modern shrine of Kompira in Shilcoku, was his birth-place. His
conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands
folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in A.D. 7;j3. Various
legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected by evil sj^irits
during his novitiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa dragons and other mon-
sters appeared out of the sea, and disturbed him in his devotions. These
he drove away by repeating mystic f ormul;B called Darani, and by spitting
at them the rays of the evening star
which had iiown from heaven into his
mouth. At a temiDle built by him on
this spot, he was constantly annoyed by
hobgoblins who forced him to enter into
conversation ; but he finally got rid of
them by surrounding himself v/ith a con-
secrated enclosure into wliich they were
unable to enter against his will. Having
been sent to China as a student in 8i 4,
much as promising Japanese youths are
sent to Europe or America to-day, he
became the favourite disciple of the great
abbot Hui-kwo (Jap. Kei-kwa), by whom
he was charged to carry back to Japan
the tenets of the Yogacharya, or, as it is
called in Japan, Shingon sect, v/hich
occupies itself gi'eatly Avith mjstic for-
mul33, magic spells, and incantations.
Kob5 Daishi returned home in S( (>, bring- , ,, .tc-ux

mg with mm a large quantity or iJiiddliist

books and devotional objects, and in 810 was installed as abbot of Toji
in Kyoto. A few years later he founded the great monastery of Koya-
san in Ivishii, where he spent the closing days of a life of incessant
toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into a vaulted
tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah.
Among the innumerable great deeds with which, this saint is ciedited,
is the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted tliat the
name K6b5 Daishi (lit. the Great '1 eacher Spreading Abroad the Law) is
a posthumous title conferred on him by the Emperor Daigo in the year
9.ii. His name while alive v;as Kukai.

KoBOR!, lord of Enshii (Ui77-1G!c), courtier to Eideyoshi and lej'jisu,
was the highest authority of his age on the tea ceremonies [cJin-nn-i/v) and
all the cognate esthetic pursuits which that term sums up to the Japanese
mind, — curio-colleciing, for instance, and the laying out of landscape
gardens. The still existing school of flower arrangement (Ensl.it ri;ii)
derived from him distinguishes itself from others by its greater elaborate-
ness and arliaciality.

KoJiMA Takanort, also called Bingo-no-Pabur5, was a high-born
warriur or the 11th century, celebrated for his romantic loyalty to the
Emperor Go-Daigo. When that ill-fated monarch was being carried off to
exile by the minions of the usurping house of Hojo, the faithful young

78 Introduction : — Celebrated Personagea.

soldier endeavoured to rescue him on the road. Having failed not only
in this, but even in gaining access for a moment to his master's person,
Kojima hit on a method of communication characteristically esthetic and
Japanese. Stealing at night into the garden of the inn where the Im-
perial party had halted, he scraped part of the bark of a cherry-ti-ee bare,
and on it ^^Tote the following Line of poetry

Avhich, being interpreted, signifies

" Heaven ! destroy not Kosen,
For he is not without a Haruei ! "

the allusion being to an ancient Chinese king, who, after twenty jeavs of
warfare, was at length helped to victory by the prowess of a faithful
vassal. AVhen day broke, the soldiers, seeing the writing, but being too
ignorant to decipher it, showed it to their Imperial captive, who at once
imderstood that it referred to himself and was meant to intimate that
faithful friends were at hand. The choice of a cherry-tree was not the
least significant j^art of the deed ; for that tree is in Jajjan the emblem
of patriotism and loyalty. Later on, Kojima died fighting for his sover-
eign, and artists still love to reproduce that scene of his life in which
loyalty and delicacy were so well combined.

KoMAcm (full name Ono-no-Komachi), the most famous of Japan's
many poetesses, seems to have flourished in the second half of the 9th
centm-5% and left a lasting impression on the national mind by her beauty,
her talents, and the miserable old age which was the reward of her pride
and frailty ; but nothing certain is known of her career. Every branch
of art borrows motives from Komachi's life. " She is shown," says
Anderson, " in her days of pride and luxury, drawing rain down upon
the parched earth by the numbers of her magic verse, bringing to
shame the rival who sought to fasten upon her the stigma of plagiaiism
and falsehood ; courted by the noblest of the brilhant band that sur-
rounded the throne, — and again, without a step of transition, old, en-
feebled, clad in unclean rags, begging her way from door to door until
she died, rotted, and became the food of dogs on the highway — a moral
illustration of the Buddhistic text, ' AU is vanity,' that the artist never
tires of repeating, and sometimes elaborates with sickening detail."

K5bin (latter haK of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and
painter.

KosE NO Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great
Japanese jjainter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect which
his skill produced on the minds of his contemporaries.

KtTMAGAi Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the l'2th centmy, took
his surname from the town of Kumagai in the x^rovince of ilusashi, which
he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most stidldng incident in his life
was his encounter ^^•ith Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from
K5be, in the year 11 8i. Atsumoii v,-as a delicate young nobleman of the
Taira family, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fuku-
wara had been taken by the ilinamoto, sought safety like the rest of his
kindred in flight onboard a junk, but being pursued by Kumagai Nao-
zane, had to tight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tear-
ing off his helmet the better to sever his head, beheld the youthful face
and was struck with pity and sympathy, his own son having fallen earlier
in the day. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life might only
cause him to fall into more ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion.

Celebrated Personages. 79

and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his
first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while
Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear
arms, but to forsake the world and spend the remainder of his days in
praying for the soul of the fair youth whose life he had so unwillingly
talfen. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils
which he had gained, and after the conclusion of the war went to Kydto,
and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani, where numerous rehcs
of him are shown to this day. The story has been di'amatised under the
title of Aisumori.

Ktjstjnoei Masashige, also called Nanko (first half of l-4th century),
is celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving loyalty to the throne.
Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the
house of Ashilcaga might have been crushed. As it was, Masashige was
unequally pitted against a superior foe ; and when his army had been
annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a little band of
personal followers committed harakiri rather than surrender. A scene
which painters often delineate is Masashige, about to die, presenting to his
son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to deeds worthy of the
family renown.

KvosAi (1831-1890), an artist noted for vigorous tlrawing and
for caricature.

Masakado (killed A. D. 940) was the most celebrated of Japanese
rebels, and the only one who ever went so far as to arrogate to himself
the title of Milcado. For details, see under Narita (Route 5), and the
temple of Kanda Myojin in Tokyo.

MicHizANE (see Tenjin).

IVIiTO K5MON (1622-1700), second Prince of Mito, a near relative
of the Tokugawa iShoguns, helped greatly though unconsciously to the
final overthrow of their house, and of the whole feudal system a century
and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Dai
Mhon Shi, which first reminded thoughtful men that the Shoguns were
usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also
patronised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies led them, and
finally the majority of the edvicated public, to endeavour to bring back
the state of things supposed to have existed in pre-Buddhistic and pre-
feudal days. Popiilar tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful
• undertakings, such as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river
at Konodai, and to find the bottom of the Jcaname-ishi at Kashima, which
is supposed to be the pivot of the world.

The succeeding princes of the house of Mito inherited the hterary
and political views of their gi'eat ancestor. As late as 1840, the then
prince, " tired of preaching Shint5 and of persuading the Shogun to hand
over his authority to the Mikado, resolved to take up arms and to
try the wager of battle. To provide the sinews of war, he seized the Bud-
dhist monasteries, and melted down their enormous bronze bells, and
cast them into cannon. By prompt measiu-es the Shogun suppressed his
preparations for war, and imprisoned him for twelve years, releasing him
only in the excitement consequent upon the arrival of Perry." * The
son of this stout old imperialist became the last of the Shoguns, and
accomplished what his ancestors had laboured for, by the voluntary
siirrender of his rank and power to the Mikado.

MoNGAKU Shonin (see Kosa Gozen).

*Griffis's Mikado's Empire.

Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

MoTOOEi NoRiNAGA (1730-18"1) was the prince of Japanese literati. A
pupil of the scarcely less distinguished scholar Mabnchi, he continued
Mabuchi's work of investigating Japanese antiquity, bringing back into
literary use the piu-e ancient Japanese language, restoring the Shinto
religion to the supremacy of which liuddhism had robbed it, — in a word,
emphasising and gloiitying everything native as against that part of
Japanese civilisation which was new and of extraneous origin. The resto-
ration of the Mikado to the absolute authority which centuiies before had
been usurped by the Shoguns, was naturally a prime object of the endea-
vours of a man to whom antiquity and perfection were convertible terms,
and in whose belief the Miliado was really and truly a descendant of the
Goddess of the Sun. Motoori and his school thus became to some extent
the authors of the revolution which, half a century later, overturned the
Shogunate and brought the Mikado forth from seclusion to govern as
well as reign. Motoori's works were very numerous, 'i he gi'eatest is his
elaborate commentary on the Kojiki, called Knfikl Den, which is practical-
ly an encyclop:vdia of ancient Japanese lore, written in a style as clear as
it is elegant. The printing of the forty-four volumes of which it consists
wa.s not concluded till 1S22, long after the author's death.

MuRASAKi Shikibu (flouiished circa A.D. 1001 ') was a Court lady,
and the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work

is the Genj'i Mono/iatari.

, Nakihira {A.b. 825-880), the

Don Juan of ancient Japan.

NicHiRKN was born at Ko-
minato in the province of Awa, at
the mouth of Yedo Bay, in A.D.
1222. At the age of twelve, he be-
came an acolyte of the Shingon
sect of Buddhists, and was admitted
to the priesthood three years later.
Shortly afterwards, he adopted the
name by which he is laiown to his-
tory. It signifies " Lotus of the
Sun," and is derived from a dream
which came to his mother of the
sivn on a lotus-flower, in con-
sequence of which she became preg-
nant. He acquired a thorough know-
ledge of the whole Buddhist canon
by means of a miracle, and met in
the coirrse of his studies with words
which he converted into the formula
Aamu My nil 0 Eenge Kyo, "Oh, the
Scripture of the Lotus of the Won-
derful Law " — a formula which is
still constantly used by his fol-
lowers as an invocation, and which is
to be seen carved on stones all over
the country in the eccentric calli-
graphy {liiije-d<nmoku) represented
in the illustration.

Having excited the wrath of the Eegent H6j6 J'okiyori by the unspar-
ing manner in which he attacked other sects, he was banished to the

'^xvfrrTj

higk-daimoku.

Celebrated Personages. 81

peninsTiIa of Izu in r2i>1, but pardoned soon after. Ten years later, hia
enemies persiiaded the Eegent Tokimune that Nichiren's doctrines tended
to subvert the state. He was seized and thrown into a cave with his six
chief disciples, and condemned to be beheaded the same night, but when
brought to the place of execution, was saved by a miracle, the executioner's
sword failing to act on the head of so holy a man ; and Toldumne, warned
in a dream, spared his life. Nichiren was, however, banished to the island
of f-ado in the north, but was permitted in 1'27'4 to return to Kamakura,
then the military capital of Eastern Japan, tie next retired to live among
the mountains of Minobu in a hut, which he quitted in order to take iip
his abode with the lord of the manor, Nambu Eokuro, a devotee so zealous
that he bestowed on the saint and his sect forever all the lands in his pos-
session. As crou'ds of disciples flocked to Nichiren for instruction in the
faith, he erected a small shrine which became the nucleiis of the now
famoiis monastery of Minobu. In 1282, feeling that death was approach-
ing, he removed from Minobu to Hcegami, near the modern city of T6ky5,
and there died. His body was cremated on the spot and the bones were
conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion being retained at Ikegami as a
precious rehc. Bis zeal and his intolerance appear to have been inherited
by his spiritual children, — the Mchi.ren-'^liu, or Uokke-shfi, as the sect
derived from him is also called, having pushed the odium iheoloijUxim to a
degree otherwise rare in Japan. The chief outward and visible — or rather
audible — sign of theii temples is the drum, which the faithful beat for
hours together to keep time to their chanting of the sacred formula Namu
Myoho L'en'ie Eyo. Nichiren's crest is the orange-blossom (tndubanu).

NiTTA YosHisADA, a warrior of the 1 Ith century, famed for his courage
and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurping families
of Hojo and Ashikaga. An incident in his life which artists love to depict,
is that related at the end of the description of Kamakura in Koute 2.

NoBUNAGA,* properly Ota NnburuKja (1531-1582), was a %yarrior who,
in the general scramble for land and xaower which went on in the latter
half of _the I6th century, gained possession of the provinces of Suruga,
Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Ise, and Echizen. Having next taken Kyoto, he
built the stronghold of Nij5, and sided with AshUcaga Yoshiaki, who by
his influence was made Shognu in 155S. Six years later the two quaiTel-
led. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki ; and the power of the
Ashikaga family, which had lasted two hundred and thirty-eight years,
came to an end. By the aid of his generals Hideyoshi and leyasu, he
brought large portions of the empire under his sway, but never obtained
the title of Shogun, which custom had limited to members of the
Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of 'J'aira descent. Though a
gi'eat soldier, Nobunaga lacked the administrative ability to follow up
and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Consequently, when he
was assassinated by an offended subordinate named Akechi, his power
died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter foe to Buddhism. Among
his many acts of violence, was the destruction of jthe gi'eat monastery of
Biei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which
occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued. On the other hand, he
encouraged the Christians ; but it is not to be supposed that a man of his
stamp did so out of any appreciation of then- theological tenets.

Ogubi Hangwan (15th century) and his faithful wife or mistress,
Terute Hime, belong rather to romance than to sober history. Robbers

*ThlB article is taken almost verbally from Griflia'a Mikado's Empire, Chap.
XX tu.

82 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

having plotted to drug liim with sake and ninrder him during the night,
she— at that time one of the courtesans of the village, who had been
invited to assist in the revels — informed him of the plot. Vaulting upon
the back of a wUd horse found in a thicket close by, he escaped to
Fujisawa on the Tokaido, where his tomb and Terute Hime's are still
shown. On another occasion, his enemies decoyed him into a poisonous
bath which produced leprosy ; but Terute Hime wheeled him in a barrow
from Kamakiira all the way to the hot springs of Yunomine in Kishu,
where a single week's bathing restored him to health and strength.

Okyo (1733-1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the founder
of the Shijo school of painters, whose watchword was fidelity to nature,
though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less radical than
their theory, and did not lead them actually to reject the conventions
of their predecessors. Okyo was specially successful in his representation
of birds and tishes.

Ota Nobunaga (see Nobunaga).

Eai San-yo (1780-1832) was an excellent poet in the Chinese style and
a great traveller, but above all a historian. Ilis chief work, the Nihon
Oicaishi, which treats in detail the period from the middle of the twelfth
to the beginning of the eighteenth century, was published in 1827, and is
still widely read. Its strongly pronounced imperialism has contributed
more than anything else to mould the opinions of the governing class
during the last fifty years.

Saigo Takamoki (1827-1877), a samurai of Satsttma, whose youth coin-
cided with the closing years of the Japanese ancien re(jime, conspicuously
distinguished himself on the imperialist side. Before the triumph of the
latter he was thrice exiled to Oshima in Luchu, as a political suspect ;
but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed
so materially as to earn the title of Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial
forces, he became one of the most important personages in the state.
His programme, however, was no radical one. Wlien his colleagues in
the government showed that their aim was not, as had at first been
asserted, a return to the Japan of early historic days, but the complete
Europeanisation of the country and the abandoment of national usages and
traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of Kagoshima
in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to whicla all the ardent
youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The influence of this
school precipitated the inevitable conflict between the old and the new
order of ideas. It broke out in 1877, and is known to history as the
Satsuma Eebellion. After a sti-uggle of several months, the imperialists
triumphed, and Saig5 himself fell on the 24th September, as did the whole
of the little band of five hundred that had remained faithful to him till
the end. Saigo's reputation never sufEered in pubhc esteem ; and even
the Imperial Court now respects his memory, the ban of degradation
having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-in-Chief re-
instated posthumously in all his honours. The visit of the Czarevitch
(the present Czar) to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a wild
notion according to which Saigo had, like YosMtsune centuries before,
escaped to Siberia.

Saigyo Hoshi (died A.D. 1198) was an eccentric monk and famous
poet of noble birth.

The San-ju-eok-ka-sen, or Thirty-six Poetical Geniiises, flourished
during the 8th, 9th, and 10th centuries. The gi-ouping of their names in
a galaxy is attributed to a court noble of the 11th century, named Kinto

Celebrated Fersonagns. 83

Dainagou. Tlieir portraits, which were first jKiinted by Fujiv,ara-no-
Nobiizane about A.D. 1200. freqnently iidorn the walls of Ryobu Shinto
temples. A complete list of their names will be found in Anderson's
interesting Catalogue of Japanese and Cliinese Paintings.

Sei Shonagon (circa A.D. 1000), a Court la<ly celebrated in Japanese
literature for her volume of miscellanies, entitled " Makura no Soshi."

Sen-no-Eikyti (1521-1591) is revered as a legislator of taste, especially
in such thoroughly Japanese arts as flower arrangement and the tea
ceremonies.* He began his esthetic career at the age of seventeen, and
became a great favourite with Ilideyoshi, accompanying that general in
liis campaigns to preside at tea parties in tlie intervals of battle. As a
connoisseiir in articles of vbiii,, he amassed a large fortune by dishonest
means, jiassing off new things as old, spurious as genuine. Ilideyoshi at
last gxew tired of him, and matters were brought to a climax when Sen-
no-Kikyu refused to give up to this all-powerful jiatron his lovely
daughter who was already betrothed to another. Orders were sent to him
to commit harakiri, which he thd in his tea-room after maldng tea,
arranging a bouquet, and composing a Buddhist stanza.

Sesshu (1421-1507) was the gi'eatest Japfinese artist of the Chinese
school of painting. Anderson says of him :

"It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value...
Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was
his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of
having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the
artiticial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an
original and powerful artist, and his renderings of Chinese scenery bear
evidences of local study that we look for in vain in the works of his
successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their
extraordinary breadth of design, the iUusive siiggestions of atmosphere
and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetry, demonstrate a genius
that could rise above all defects of theory in the princii^Ies of his art."

Shinran Shonin (1173-1262) was the founder of the powerful Ikko
sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid temples,
known by the name of Hongivanjl or Monzeki, are among the finest
specimens of Japanese architecture. Ilongwavji means " the Monastery of
the Beal Vow," in allusion to the vow made by Amida that he would not
accept Buddhahood unless salvation were made attainable by all who
shoiild sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, and signify that
desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a passage in a
Biuldhist scripture where this vow is recorded that the pecirliar doctrine
of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved by
faith in the merciful jDower of Amida, and not by works or by vain repeti-
tion of prayers. For this reason, and also because its jiriests are permitted
to many, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of
Japan. In the year 1602 political reasons caused a split in the sect,
which since that time has been tlivided into a Western and an Eastern
branch, — J!flshi Ilongucanji und Higashi Ilongwanji, — each branch owning a
temple in every considerable city. Shinran Shonin was descended from
the Imjierial family. The abbots of the sects therefore bear the title of
Monzeki, or Imjierial Offspring, while the walls enclosing its temples are
allowed the suji-kabe or suji-bei, — striped plaster ornamentation otherwise
reserved for buildings inhabited by Imperial princes. During the present
reign, Shinran Shonin has been honoured by the bestowal of the

* See Things Japanese.

84 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages.

posthumous title of Eenshin Daishi, that is, " the Great Teacher who Sees
the Truth."

Shodo Shonin. See under Nikko, Koute 17.

Shotoku Taishi (o72-'J21), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism,
was son of the Emperor Yomei and Regent under the Empress Suiko,
but never himseK actually ascended the throne. He founded a large
number of monasteries, framed a code of laws, and is said to have
introduced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed
author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which Anderson, however,
inclines to consider apocryphal. A favourite art-molive is the victory of
Shotoku Taishi over Mononobe-no-Moriya, who championed the old
native Shinto religion as against the Buddhist innovators. He even went
so far, on the Emperor Yomei's death, as to set up a candidate for the
Imperial crown, of whom Shotoku Taishi, and his minister Soga-no-Umako
disapproved. An appeal to arms having been made, the Shintoists were
beaten and Mononobe-no-Moriya was killed.

Shubun (loth century), one of the greatest Japanese painters of the
Chinese school.

SoAMi (second half of the 15th century), a celebrated dilettante and
favourite of the Shogun Yoshimasa. Many of the noted landscape gardens
of Kyoto were designed by him.

SoGA Ktodai, that is, the Soga Brethren Jur5 and Goro, have re-
mained national heroes on account of the pious vendetta which they
executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Y'^oritomo at the base of Fuji,
in the year 1193, on Kudo Stiketsune, the murderer of their father. Juro
perished in the attempt, while Goro was captured, brought before
Yoritomo, and condemned to have his head hacked off with a blunt sword.
Together with their nameshas been preserved that of Tora Gozen, a
courtesan of the town of Oiso on the Tokaido, who was the younger
brother's mistress, and who, no less faithful than fair, aided him in his
revenge and became a nun after his death.

SosEN (1717-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his paint-
ings of monkeys.

Takauji (1305-1356), founder of the Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns
(see Go-Daigo Teww, p. 72).

Takeda Shingen (1521-1573) was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains
of the lawless times that preceded the establishment of the Tokugawa
dynasty of Shoguns. The eldest son of his father, lord of Koshu, it was
his fate to be unjustly passed over by that father in favour of his second
brother ; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to live
in safety. "^Taen, however, both youths had reachei man's estate,
Takeda Shingen's superiority in skill and coiurage gained all the warriors
over to his side, and he succeeded his father without demur. His
whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbour-
ing provinces of Central and Eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi
Kenshin, lord of Echigo. Their most famous battle was that of Kawa-
naka-jima. In middle life he became converted to the doctrines of the
Tendai sect of Buddhism, built a temple to the god Bishamon, did public
penance, abjured the eating of fish and aU female companionship, and
went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of archbishop, — for
what ecclesiastical authorities were going to refuse anything to a zealot
who disposed of so many soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce his
grand passion, war, but kept on fighting tUl the end, his latter years being
much disturbed by the consciousness of the gi'owing power of leyasu, and
being divided between quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain.

Celebrated Personages. 85

When mortally wounded, he left orders with his successor to hold no
funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a profound secret
for three years and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa,
enclosed in a stone coffin, This was in order to prevent his numerous
foes from taking heart at the news of his decease. His last will and
testament was only partially obeyed ; for though his death was kept
tecret as long as possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried
at the temple of Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kofu. The place
still exists, the temple garden being a tasteful specimen of rockery on a
large scale. Brave but superstition, Takeda Shingen was also an adept
at governing men. His people loved and respected him, as was shown
by the fact that none ever rebelled against him, even in that turbulent
age when every man's hand was against every man.

Take-no-tjchi no Sukune, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have
lived two hundred and fifty-five years (according to others, three hundred
and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikado's. His birth
is supposed to have taken place about 200 B. C.

Tamuea-mako (died A. D. 811), the bravest and most successful
generalissimo {Slid gun) of his time. He sudded the Ainos, who then
inhabited the northern portion of the Main Island almost as far south
as Sendai.

Toba Sojo, an abbot of the 13th century, is remembered as the origi-
nator of a quaint, coars style of picture called after him Toha-e.

Toki Busshi (early in the lih. century), so called from the resem-
blance of his face to that of a bird, was the first great Japanese sculptor.
He was of Chinese descent, and carved Buddhist images. Some of his
works still survive at the temple of Horyuji near Nara.

ToBii KiYONOBu (flourished 1710-1730) was the founder of the
theatrical school of popular illustration. Numeroiis successors carried
on his school under the same surname of Torii.

ToYOKUNi (1772-1828) was a great artist in colour-printing. Many
of the broadsides bearing his name are, however, fi'om the brush of
certain of his pupils.

TsuBATUKi (884-94:0), Court noble M'ho was one of Japan's greatest
classic poets. He was also her first prose writer, the works by which he
is best known being the " Tosa Niki," a charmingly simple and life-like
account of his voyage home to Kyoto by junk from Tosa, where he had
been governor, and the extremely elegant Preface to the " Kokinshu," or
" Odes Ancient and Modern," of which he was one of the editors.

Uesugi Kenshin (1530-1578) was one of the most representative men
of his turbulent and superstitious century. As cadet of an ancient and
powerful family, he had been entered as an acolyte in a Buddhist
temple, but emerged from retirement to seize the paternal inheritance
from the feeble grasjD of an elder brother. To the family domain of
Echigo, he added Etchu, Noto, and Sado, together with portions of
several other provinces, rivalling not only Takeda Shingen, the famous
lord of Koshu, but the great Nobunaga himself. He was as noted for
high principle as for prowess in war, and, regarding himself as a priest
to the end, never married and so left no successor. He is represented in
art holding in his hand a bamboo stick with which he was wont to direct
his men in the field, instead of with the war-fan the usual.

Unkei, a famous mediaeval sculptor of Buddhist images.

Ukashima Taeo, the Japanese Kip Van Winkle, is said by the
national historians to have left Japan in A. D. 477, and to have returned
in 825. His legend lakes a hundred forms. The following is not only

86 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

the simplest, but the most ancient, being translated as literally as
possible from a ballad contained in the Man-yo-shu, an anthology which,
dates from A.D. 760. The poem itself is probably far older : —

THE FISHER-BOY rKASHDIA.

'Tis Spring, and the mist comes stealing

O'er Suminoye's shore.
And I stand by the sea-side musing

On the days that are no more.

I muse on the old-world story.
As the boats glide to and fro.

Of the fisher-boy Urashima,

^\Tio a-fishing loved to go, —

How he came not back to the Aillage

Though sev'n suns ha<l risen and set.

But rowed on past the bound of ocean.
And the Sea-God's daughter met ;

JIow the pledged their faith to each other,
.And came to the Evergreen Land,

And entered the Sea-God's palace
So lo^ingly hand in hand.

To dwell for aye in that country.
The Ocean-maiden and he, —

The country where youth and beauty
Abide eternally.

But the foolish boy said, 'To-morrow
I'll come back with thee to dwell ;

But I have a word to my father,
A word to my mother to tell.'

The maiden answered, ' A casket

I give into thine hand :
And if that thou hopest truly

To come back to the Evergreen Land,

' Then ojjen it not, I charge thee ;

Open it not, I beseech ! ' —
So the boy rowed home o'er the billows

To Suminoye's beach.

But where is his native hamlet ?

Strange hamlets line the stand.
^\Tiere is has mother's cottage "

Strange cots rise on either hand.

' What ! in three short years since I left it '

He cries in his wonder sore,
' Has the home of my childhood vanished ?

Is the bamboo fence no more ?

Celebrated Personage.s. 87

' Perchance if I open the casket

"WTiich the maiden gave to me,
My home and the dear old viUage

WUl come back as they used to be.'

And he lifts the hd, and there rises

A fleecy, silvery cloud,
That floats off to the Evergreen Country —

And the fisher-boy cries aloud,

He waves the sleeve of his tunic,

He rolls over on the gi'ound,
He dances with fury and horror.

Running wildly round and round.

But a sudden chill comes o'er him

That bleaches his raven hair,
And furrows wth hoary WTinkles

The form erst so young and fair.

His breath grows fainter and fainter,

TiQ at last he sinks dead on the shore ;

And I gaze on the spot where his cottage
Once stood, but now stands no more.

Yamato-take no Mtkoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor
Keiko, was a great hero of the prehistoric age. While yet a stripling, he
Avas sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan. In order
to accomplish this end, he borrowed the gown of liis aunt who was high-
priestess of Ise, and, thus disguisjed, made the rebel chieftains fall in love
with him while carousing in the cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly
drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote them io death. He next
subdued the province of Izumo, and finally conquered Eastern Japan,
which was at that time a barbarous waste. After many adventures both
warlike and amorous, he died on the homeward march to Yamato, where
the Emperor his father held Court, and his tumulus is sho'.\n at Noboro
in the province of Ise.

YoEiTOMO (1147-11!)!)) was the founder of the Shogunate, — -the first
Japanese ]Mayor of the Palace, if one may so phrase it. A scion of the
great house of Minamoto, as shre^^'d and ambitious as he was unscrupulous
and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an early age, and barely escaped
death as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful minister,
who belonged to the rival house of Taira. Kiyomoii's exactions having
roused the indignation of the whole empire, Y'oritomo saw that the
moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the
malcontents eagerly flocked to his standard ; and first in Eastern Japan,
then iit Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near
Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritomo defeated the
Taira and utterly exterminated them, putting even women and chilthen
to the sword. Yoritomo established his capital at Kamaknra, which soon
gi'ew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the iKlministration by the
appointment of military governors chosen from among his own people,
to act conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations
from the ilikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable
into his own treasiuy, and by other far-sighled innovations made in the

88 Introduction : — Population of Chief Ciiies.

interests of a military feudalism. At last in 1192, he obtained — in other
words forced — from the Court of Ky5to the title of Sei-i Tai Shogun, that
is " Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo," which soon came to denote the
military or actual ruler of the country, as distinguished from its theoretical
head, the heaven-descended IMikado. Yoritomo, whose life had been spent
fighting, died peacefully in his bed. Among the many on whom lie
trampled to satisfy the dictates of personal ambition, was his own brother
YosMtsune, a far nobler character. Though Yoritomo's system of govern-
ment remained in vigour for weU-nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped
from his own family in the generation following his death, his sons Yoriie
and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an
early age.

Y'^osHiMAsA (1436-1490), eighth Shdgun of the Ashikaga dynasty, was a
munificent patron of the ails.

YosHiTSCNE (b. 1159), also called TJshi-waka, was younger half-brother
to the first Shogun Yoritomo, being the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful
concubine named Tokiwa Gozen. By yielding to the wicked desires of the
tyrant Eiyomori, Tokiwa obtained pardon for her son on condition that
he shaved his head and became a monk. Accordingly he was placed in
the Buddhist monastery of Kurama-yama near Kyoto. But theological
exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan
in company wth a friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himseK
by the valovir with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying
several with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of
age. When Yoritomo rose in arms against the Tana family, Yoshitsune
natm-aUy joined him, and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real
guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder
brother. Yoritomo, far from feeling any gratitude, began to burn with
jealousy and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went so
far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern
Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and
killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-gawa, his head
being sent to Yoritomo at Kamakura, preserved in sake. Others say that
he committed harakin when he saw that all was lost, having previously
killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he
escaped to Y'^ezo, and then re-appeared on the mainland of Asia as
Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity
between the Chinese characters used to vsrite the names of these two
famous men ; but it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune
remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Yezo. To the Japanese
his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. The
traveller will often hear mentioned in connection with the name of
Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the
traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him.

27. — Population of the Chief Citie-s.

Akashi ...
AMta ...
Aomori ...
Ashikaga
Atsuta ...
Chiba ...

21,0(]0

Fukuoka

29,000

Fukushima

28,000

Fushimi

21,000

Gifu ...

25,000

Hachioji

26,000

Hakodate

66,000
21,000
22,000
31,000
23,000
78,000

Fukui M.OOd Himeji 35,000

Outline Tou7'.s.

Birosald

Hiroshima

Kagoshima

Kanazawa

Kiryu . . .

Kobe ...

Kocbi . . .

Kofu ...

Kokura...

Kumamoto

Kure ...

Kiirume

Kuwana

Kyoto ...

Maebashi

Mamgame

Matsue . . .

Matsumoto

Matsuyama

Mito ...

Moji

Morioka

Nafa ...

Nagano...

Nagasaki

Nagoya...

Nara

Niigata . . .

Okayama

Onomiehi

35,000
122,000
53,000
84,000
24,000
216,000
37,000
38,000
27,000
61,000
22,000
29,000
20,000
353,000
34,(J00
25,000
35,000
31,000
37,000
34,000
25,000
33,000
35,000
31,000
107,000
244,000
31,000
53,000
58,000
22.000

Osaka

. ... 821,000

Otaru

. ... 57,000

Otsu

. ... 34,000

Saga

. ... 33,000

Sakai ...

. ... 50,000

Sakata

22,000

Sapporo

. ... 37,000

Sendai

. . . 83,000

Shimonoseld ... .

. ... 43,000

Shizuoka

. ... 42,000

Shuri

. 25,000

Takamatsu

. ... 34,000

Takaoka

. ... 31,000

Takasaki

. ... 31,000

Tochigi

... 22,000

Tokushima

. ... 62,000

Tokyo

1,440,000

Toyama

. ... 60,000

Toyohasbi

. ... 22,000

Tsu ... .

. ... 33,000

Tsuru-ga-okii ... .

. ... 20,000

Ueda

. . 24,000

Utsunomiya ... .

. ... 32,000

Wakamatsu

. ... 29,000

Wakayama

. ... 64,000

Yamada

. ... 28,000

Yamagata

. ... 35,000

Y^okkaicbi

. ... 25,000

Yokohama

. ... 194,000

Yokosuka

. ... 25,000

28. — Outline Toubs.

1. — One Month's Tour from Yokohama: —

Tokyo

Kamakiira and Enoshima

Miyanoshita (visit Hakone)

From Miyanoshita to Nagoya by Tokaido Eailway . . .

Nagoya

From Nagoya to Kydto

Ky5to

Lake Biwa and back to Kyoto

From Kyoto to Nara and Kobe

From Kobe to Yokohama by steamer (by rail | day less)

From Y'^okohama to Nikk5 by rail

Nikko and Chuzenji

From Nikko to Ikao via Ashio and the Watarase-gawa

Ikao (visit Haruna)

From Ikao to Kusatsu

Kusatsu

From Kusatsu to Karuizawa

Fi'om Karuizawa via Myogi-san to Tokyo

3 days

1 „

3 „
1 „

4 „
1 „

1 „

^ „

1 „

3 .,

2 „
2

1 I

1 „

1 n

U .,

Introiiictlon : — Oidlm", Tour.

Spare day

Total.

With tliis tour may be combined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama
(Eoute 9). Those who object to pui-ely Japanese accommodation should
omit the joiu-ney fr'om Nikko to Il^ao ■sia Ashio. taldng train instead, and
also the visit to Kusatsu.

2. — One Month's Tour fiom Kohe : —

Kobe

Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa

Train fi-om Kydto to Gifu ; along the Nakasendo to Asama-yama

and Karuizawa

From Karuizawa to Ikao

Ikao

From Ikao to Nikkd via the Watarase-gawa

Nikk5 and Chuzenji

By rail to Tolcyo

Tokyo

Yokohama, Kamakura, and Miyanoshita

By Tokaido Railway to Nagoya

Bail to Kobe

Spare day

Total

1 day

4.'. ,.

1^ „

1 ,.

1 „

If coming up the Tokaido instead of the Nakasendo, the jom-ney may
be broken either at Nagoya or else at Shizuoka, from which latter place
by jim-ikisha via Kuno-zan to Okitsu, and on by rail to Kozu.

3. — One Month's Tour from Xagasaki: —

Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen)

Fi-om Nagasaki to Kobe by steamer* ...

Nara. Kyoto, and Lake Biwa .. .

From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Bailway

Fi'om Nagoya to Miyanoshita

ilijanoshita

From Miyanosliita to Kauiakina and Yokohau

Y'okohama

Tokyo

From Tokyd to Nikko and back

Steamer from Y'okohama to Nagasald

Spare days

4 days^

Total...

4. — It frequently happens that travellers from America, en 7-oule to
Europe \iA India, have only a fortnight to devote to Japan between the
steamer that di-ops them at Yokohama and the next one that picks them
up at Kobe. To such the following outhne is suggeste^l ; it entails no
sleeping at native inns : —

* Or else rail to Moji, steamer to terminus of Sanyo line, and rail to Kobe, stopping
one night at Hiroshima after visiting Miyajima.

OaH;nf^ Tovr.^. 91

Yokohama (shopping, traveUing arrangements) 2 days

Tokyo (sights and the theatre) 2 „

Tokyo to Nikko and back to Yokohama 'i „

By Tokaido Kailway to Miyanoshita, visiting Kamakrira and

Enoshima en route 1

IMiyanoshita 1 ..

By rail to Kyoto 1 „

Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe 4 „

Total U

All the above tours are i^racticable for ladies. Shorter tonrs can
easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of them.

5. Y'okohama to Mijanoshita, Hakone, and Atami. Three or foitr
days. (Route (> and 7.)

(\. From Yokohama to Gotemba, and round Fuji via the Lakes to
Shoji. Thence to Y'oka-ichiba, and down the rapids of the Fujikawa
(visiting Minobu) to Iwabuchi on the Tokaido Eailwa^'. Or from Shdji to
Kofu, Kajika-zawa, and thence down the rapids. One week. (Eoutes 10
and 27.)

7. From Y'okohama to Niklco, the copper mines of Ashio, down the
valley of the "\Vatarase-gawa to Omama, and back to Yokohama by rail.
Five days. One day extra for Koshin-zan. (Eoutes 17 and 19.)

8. From Yokohama to Nikko, Chuzenji, and Y'umoto ; thence over the
Konsei-toge to Shibukawa for Ikao, and back to Yokohama by rail. One
week. (Eoutes 17, 18, and 14.)

•J. From Yokohama to Ikau, 1st day ; Xlcao to Kusatsu, 2nd day ;
Kusatsu to Shibu, 3rd day ; Bhiliu to Toyono and Nagano, 4th day ; fi-om
Nagano to Myogi-san via Karuisawa, 5th day ; rail fi-om ]\Iatsuida to
Y'"okohama in 5 j hrs., Gth day. < )ne day extra for ascent of Asama-yama
fiom KaruizaAva. (Eoutes 14, 12. and 13.) _

10. From Yokohama to Nagano by rail, back to Oya to rejoin the
Nakasendo, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by rail to Kyoto.
Eight or nine days. (Eoutes 26 and 24.)

11. From Yokohama to Shimo-no-Suwa via Kofu and the Koshu
Kaido, or by the Nakasendo as in No. 10 ; and down the rapids of the
Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido Eailwav. Five or six daj'S. (Eoutes 27, 24.
and 30.)

12. The shrines of Ise. Four days from Y'okohama, or three days
from Kobe. (Eoutes 23 and 32.)

13. From Kyoto through Yamato to Koya-san, and back by Walax-
yama. Four days. (Eoutes 35-37.)

14. From Kyoto via Lake ]5iwa to Ama-no-Hashitliite, and back \iei
the silver mines of Dctino to tlic Sanyo Eailway at Himeji. One week.
(Eoute 41.)

15. Eough mountain tour through Hida and Etchii fTom Matsumoto
to Hirayu and Takayama ; thence down the valley of the ITidagawa to
Gifu on the Tokaido Eailway. Eight or ten days. (Eoute 31.)

16. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shilcokn. Time uncertixin. (Eoutes
43, 47-51.)

17. Island of Shikoku : — landing at jVIitsu-ga-hama for Matsuyama
and Dogo ; across country to Kochi ; across country to Hakuchi. whence
either E. down rapids of Yoshino-gawa to Tokushima, or N. to shiines of
Kompira ; Tadotsu, Talcamatsu, Kobe. Ten days. (Eoutes 47-4'.>, 51).

92 Introduction: — Outline Tours.

18. From NagasaH to the solfataras of Onsen (Unzen) and back.
Three days. (Eoute 53.)

19. From Nagasaki to Knmamoto and across Kyushu via Aso-san and
Takeda to Beppu. Thence to Nakatsu and Moji, visiting the Yabakei
Valley. Ten or twelve days. (Routes 54 and 58.)

20. By steamer from Nagasaki to Kagoshima (or else Boute 63 re-
versed). Back to Nagasaki \ia Kirishima-yama and the rapids of the
Kumagawa. Eight or ten days. (Eoutes 61 and 62.)

21. From Tokyo by rail to Sendai, by boat to Matsushima, and
back. Three days. Two extra days to visit Bandai-san. (Routes 65, 70,
and 66.)

22. By steamer from Yokohama to Hakodate and Otaru ; rail to
Sapporo and Muroran ; steamer to Hakodate and Aomori ; back to Yoko-
hama by rail, visiting Matsushima, Bandai-san, and Nikko en route. A
fortnight. (Routes 79, 81, 65, 70, 66, and 17.)

23. Island of I'^ezo : — by steamer from llakodate to Muroran ; rail to
Nobori-betsu for hot springs, and to Sapporo, visiting Yubari on the way.
From Sapporo to Hakodate as in No. 22 (reversed), or by coast and inland
roads via Suttsu, Setanai, and Esaslii. Nine or ten days. Three or four
extra days to visit Piratori (Eoutes 79-81.)

GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS.

Ai (see ayu).

Aird,ono, a secondary deity to
whom, in addition to the prin-
cipal object of worship, a Shinto
temple is dedicated.

Ama-inu and Koma-inu, one open-
mouthed, ,s>'i®\

the other

with mouth

closed; but v ^^\

opinions \ ^^^.

differ as to ^^ =^

which is Li==^

which (comp. p. 40).
Asemi, a flowering shrub, — the

Andromeda japonica.
Ayu (often pronounced at), a spe-
cies of trout, — the Salmo altwalis.
JBampei, a screen opposite a temple

gate.
Basha, a carriage.
Bashi (for hashi in compounds), a

bridge.
Bosaisu, a Buddhist saint (see p.

46).
Bufjaku,
dance :

an ancient pantomimic
hugdku-dai, a stage for

the performance of this dance.
Bvyu, a species of sand-fly, whose

sting is very painful.
Cha, tea : cha-dai, tea-money (see

p. 6) ; cha-no-yu, " tea ceremo-
nies " (see " Things Japanese ") ;

cha-ya, a tea-house (see p. 7).
Cho, a measme of distance (see

p. 5) ; a street.
Bai, big, great.
Baibutsu, a colossal image of a

Buddha.
Baimon, the great outer gate of the

grounds of a Buddhist temple.
Baishi, a great Buddhist abbot or

saint.
Barani, a mystic Buddhist formula

or incantation.
Bo, a hall, a temple.
Bori (for tori in compounds), a

street.

Ema, an ex-voto picture : ema-do,
a temple building hung with
such pictures.

Eta, a pariah.

Fiisuma, sliding-screens covered
with paper.

Gawa (for kawa is compounds), a
river, a stream.

6eji7i, the outer chamber or nave of
a Buddhist temple.

Gin-zan, a silver mine.

Go, an honori-
fic prefix.

Go, a measure
of capacity
(see p. 6), and
o f distance
(see Route 1>,
Sect. 1.).

Gohei, the em-
blems in a
Shintd tem-
ple of the an-
cient offer-
ings of cloth;
they are now
usually strips
of M' h i t e
paper, very (gohei)

rarely of metal.

Go-honsha, a Shinto shrine on the
summit of a mountain.

Gorna, a Buddhist rite in
which a fire of cedar-
wood is burnt, and
prayers are offered :
goma-do, a shrine for
the performance of this . y -^
rite.

Gongen, an avatar (see p.
48).

Gorei-ya, a mausoleum
(of a Shogun).

Gosho-guruma, a praying-
wheel (see Rte. 4, under
Asakusa Kwannon).

Gtincho, the chief official
of a rural district.

i./

Introduction :— Glossary.

Gydcji-yalci, n kind of ancient
earthenware (see p. 72).

Haiden, an oratory (see p. 39).

Hakkei, eight views (see Ete. 40,
Sect. 1).

Hakuhidsu-kiro)!, a museum.

Hashi, a bridge.

Ilatamoio, a vassal of the Shogun
having a fief assessed at less than
10,000 kokv.

Hatoha, a landing-place.

Heiden, a building in which (johd
are set up.

Higashi, east.

Hinoki, a conifer, — the Chama'cy-
parifi olAusa.

JIojo, the apartments of the high-
priest of a Buddhist temple.

Hoke-kyo, the name of a Buddhist
scripture (Sanslait, Saddharma
Pu n < laril -a Suira ) .

Jloko, a kind of mythological car
drawn through the streets in
religious processions.

Ilomho, the chief building of a
monastery, and residence of the
abbot.

Honden, see Ilonsha.

Hondo, the imncipal building of
a Buddhist monaster)'.

Ilonrpcanji, a temple of the Bud-
dhist Monto sect.

Jlonsha. the main shrine of a Shin-
to temple.

Ildshu-no-iaiiia, a Budtlhist emblem
of u n c e r t a i n
significance,
perhaps best
identifie<l with
the iiyo-'i-riii
mentioned o n
p. 52.

Horizon, the j^rin-
cipal deity or
image of a Bud-
dhist temple.

Hdzo. the trea-
sure-house of a
temple.

Ichd, the name of a tree whose
leaves turn gold in autumn. — the
^alisburia adiaratifolia, also call-
ed Gincjko hilohn.

Ihai, a funeral tablet.

lia-fjaki, see p. 30.

HOSHU-trO-TAMAJ

Iica-ijoya, a cave used for sleeping
in ; hra-ya, a cavern.

Ji (in temple names), see p. 43.

Jigoku, lit. hell, hence a solfatara.

Jikidn, see p. 43.

Jinja, a Shinto temple.

Knerv-mata (lit. frog's thighs),
pieces of timber shaped like the
section of an inverted cup, sup-
porting a horizontal beam.

Kago, a land of small palanquin
(see p. 10).

Kagura, a Shinto religious dance
(comp. p. 45).

Kaidd, a highway.

Kakemono, a hanging scroll — gen-
erally jDainted.

Kami, above, upper.

Kami, a Shinto god or goddess.

Kara, China : Kara-7n<)n, a gate in
the Chinese style ; Kara-shishi,
stone lions used to adorn temjile
gi'ounds.

Kaica, a river, a stream.

Kairara, a stony river-bed.

Keyaki, a ti'ee whose
Aery hard wood is
much prized, — the
Zelkowa keaki.

Kiku-no-mon, the
Imiierial crest
of the chrys-
anthemum. (KIKU-NO-MON)

Kiri-no-mon, the Imperial crest of
the leaf and flower
of the PaMllownia
hnperialis.

Kita, north.

Ko, a child ; (in com-
pounds) small.

Koencld, a public
garden. (kiki-no-mos)

Koku, the standard measure of
capacity (see p. (i). Incomes
were formerly estimated in kokti
of rice.

Koma-inu (see uma-inii).

Kv, an urban district : kvcJio, the
chief official of a district.

Kuda-ta/ma, a small hollow tube

formerly used as .- — ^,

an ornament (see { fo)

Rte. 4, under Ueno '^ -^

M'usevm).

Glossary.

Kuro-shio, (lit. black biine), tlie
Japanese Gulf Stream.

luiruma, a jinriMslia.

Kioaisha, a company, a society.

Kioan, an important building, —
usexl chiefly in names of hotels,
public halls, etc.

Kwankoha, an imlristrial bazaar.

Kyodo, a library of Buddhist sutras.

Kyudo, an old road.

Machi, a street, a town.

^faga-tama, an an- ^

cient form of or- V V — --^ o\
nament (see Kte. \^ J

4. under IJciio
Museum).

MaJdmono, a scroll (see p. 13).

yiandara, a Buddhist picture-
generally on a large scale and
depiciting one half of the mytho-
logical universe.

Manji (Sanskrit, soasilkn), a mystic
diagram, ex- p— ,(—
p 1 a i n e d by r
some as the { L

symbol of luck, |

by others as the i — ~^

symbol of Bud- |

dhist esoterics.

Count d'Alviella, in his " Mujra-
ilon des Symboles," traces it back
to the Greek (/ammadton in Troas
anterior to the 13th century B.C.,
showing how it passed westward
to Iceland, eastward to Thibet
and Japan, producing the key-
pattern and other well-lcnown
tlecorative types.

Masu, a salmon-trout (Salmojapo-
nicus). See p. 14.

Matsuri, a religious festival.

Meibutsu, the specialty for which a
place is noted.

Mikoshi, a sacred palanquin.

Mikoto, a title applied to Shinto

Minami, south. [deities.

Minato, a harbour.

Mine, a mountain peak.

3/ it s u-ao I, three
leaves of the kamo-
aoi or asarum, —
the crest of the
great Tokugawa
family.

Mit su-domw; a tigure like that here

represented. Its

origin and sym-
bolic import are

alike matters of

debate. Besides

the treble form

here given,

there also e3dst

a double form (fniaisu-domoe) and

a single one {tomoe).
Miya, a Shinto temple, an Imperial

prince or princess.
Mokusei, the Olea fragrans, — a tree

having small, deliciously scented

flowers of a reddish yeUov/ colour.
Mura, a village.
Murodo, a hut for pilgrims on a

mountain side.
Myojin, a Shintd deity.
Nada, a stretch of sea.
Naijin, the inner part or chancel of

a Buddhist temple.
Naka, middle.
JVamu Atimla Buisu, an invocation

of the god Amida, used chiefly by

the Monto sect.
Nemhutsu, a prayer to Buddha.
Nippon, Jai^an.
JVishi, west.

jVo, a species of lyric drama.
Norirnono, a palanquin.
Nu'ina, a marsh, a tarn.
Nyorai, a Buddha (see p. 53).
0, an honoritix jorefix.
0 (in compounds), big.
Oku, the innermost recess, behind :

oku-no-in, see p. 43.
Onsen, a hot sj^ring.
Rtlkan, a class of Buddhist saints

(see p. 53).
Ramma, ventilating

the ceiling of a

beautifully carved.
Ri, a Japanese

league

5).'"
Rimb d

wheel

la w ,

chiefly

panels near
room — often

ornament in
temples dedi-
cated to Fudo.

(RIMBO)

Introduction : — Glossary.

Rinzo, a revolving library (see p.

47).
Ryobu Shinto, see p. 40.
Saka, an ascent, a hill.
Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica, — the

sacred tree of the Shintoists.
Saki, a promontory.
Sammon, a large two-storied gate

leading to a Buddhist tem-
ple.
San (in compounds), a mountain,

sometimes a temple.
Sarugaku, a classical semi-religious

dance.
Sen, a Japanese cent, worth half of

an American cent, one farthing.
Shiehi-do-garan, a complete set of

Buddhist temple buildings.
Shima, an island.
Shimo, lower.
Shindo, a new road.
Shinto, the aboriginal rehgion of

the Japanese (see p. 37).
Shippo-no-

mon — (ht.

"enamel

crest "), the

name of a

Japanese

crest.
Sotetsu, the

Oycas revo-

luta, — a tree

resembling

the sago-
palm.
Sotoba, see pp. 43-4.
Snji-bei, or Suji-

kabe, a species of

striped wall or-

namentation

(see p. 83).
Tai, a kind of sea-

bream, — the

Serranus mar-

ginalis.
Take, a peak.
Tamagaki (see p.

39).

(TENQU)

quaint coarse

Tengu, a long-
nosed goblin,
often repre-
sented with
wings, and
supposed to
inhabit the
mountains.

Tennin, a Bud-
dhist angel.

Tenno, an em-
peror.

Toba-e, a land of
picture (see p. 85).

Toge, a pass over mountains.

Tokko (Sanskrit vajra), a Buddhist
symbol, for _,
whose ex- ^S=:^~
planation
see p. 52. It
has three
forms in Japan, of which the
simplest resembles one spoke of
the "wheel of the law" (see
Eimbo). The other forms of it
are the three-pronged, or sanko
here figured, and the five-prong-
ed, or goko.

Tori, a street.

Torii, a Shintd gateway (see p. 39).

The left-hand illus-
tration gives the
Pure Shinto, that
on the right hand the Ryobu
Shinto form of this structure.

Ta (in compoimds), a house.

Yama, a mountain, a hill, also a
sort of religious car borne in
certain processions.

Zan (for san in compounds), a
mountain, a hill.

Zashiki, a room, an apartment.

A..---' -I-

SECTION 1.
EASTERN JAPA

(Routes I — 22.

Handbook for Travellers

.JAPAN.

O U T E S .

ROUTE 1.

Yokohama.

Yokoliaina, the place where
most visitors lirst touch Japanese
soil, is the largest of the Treaty
Ports and practically the port of
Tokyo. The landing-place (Hatoha)
and the Custom-house {Zei-kwan)
are within 5 min. drive of the
hotels, and within 20 min. of the
Railway Station.

Hotels.— GxSiTid. Hotel, No. 20;
Oriental Hotel, No. 11 ; Club Hotel,
No. 5-B ; all on the Bund, facing
the sea ; Wright's Hotel, No. 40 ;
Hotel de Geneve, No. 26. The
Maples Hotel, 85, Bluff.

Restaurants. — (European food)
Railway Station (upstairs) ; Nissei-
ro, in Ota-machi ; {Japanese food)
Sanomo, in Ota-machi San-chome.

Japanese Inns. — Futui, in Ben-
ten-dori ; Takano-ya, in Honcho-
dori.

Banks. — Hongkong and Shang-
hai Bank, No. 2 ; Chartered Bank
of India, Australia, and China, No.
58 ; National Bank of China, No.
75. Also Agencies of the Chartered

Mercantile Bank, and oi the Bank
of China and Japan, No. 1.

Consulates. — British, No. 172 ;
American, No. 234 ; German, No.
81 ; French, No. 84.

Post and Telegraph Office. — This,
together with the Telephone Ex-
change, the Custom-house, and the
Prefecture (Eencho), stands near the
British and American Consulates,
on the space between the Foreign
Settlement and the Japanese town.

Steam Communication. — Japan
Mail Steamship Company {Nippoii
Y'ilsen Kwaisha), close to the Rail-
way Station ; Peninsular and Orien-
tal, No. 15 ; Messageries Maritimes,
No. 9 ; Norddeutscher Lloyd, No.
29 ; Pacific Mail, Occidental and
Oriental, and Toyo Kisen Kwai-
sha, No. 4-A ; Canadian Pacific, No.
14 ; Northern Pacific, Dodwell,
Carlill and Co., No. 50-B.

Landing and Shipping Agents. —
A. Weston, 8 Customs Hatoba ;
MacArthur & Co., No. 10.

Churches. — Christ Church (An-
glican), No. 235, Bluff; Union
Church (Protestant), No. 167;
Roman Catholic, No. SO.

Clubs. — Yokohama United Club,
No. 4-B ; Club Germunia, No. 235 ;
Masonic Temple.

100

Route 1. — Yokohama.

Photographs of Japanese Scenery
and Costumes. — Farsari, near Yato-
bashi ; Tamamura, 2, Benten-dori ;
Kimbei, in Honclio-dori.

Books and Maps relating to
Japan. — Kelly and Walsh, No. GO ;
Maruya, in Benten-ddri.

Foreign Stores for Japanese
Works of Art. — Arthur & Bond's
Fine Ai-t' Gallery, No. 38 ; Kuhn &
Komor, No. 37 ; Kuhn, No. 57.

Japanese Curio Dealers. — Numa-
shima, in Kitanaka-dori Itchome,
for car'\"ings and other fine works
of art ; Samurai Shokr«'ai, in Hon-
cho Itchome ; Musashi-ya, Bisansha,
and Konoike, in Honcho-dori, for
jewellery, ivories, silver-ware, etc. ;
Hattori, in Benten-ddri Itchome,
for Satsuma porcelain. !llatsuishi-
ya, in Honcho-dori, porcelain in
Eiu'opean shapes ; and numerous
others, especially in Benten-dori.
Porcelain factory outside the
native town at Ota-mma, known as
Maktizu Kozan (shown to visitors).

Silk Stores. — Ewata, No. 35, Set-
tlement ; Tanabe, Shobei, and
Shieno, all in Honcho-dori ; also,
for cheaper articles, Yamaguchi, in
Otamachi ; Goto, in Benten-dori
Ni-ch5me.

Embroideries, Silk and Cotton
Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No-
zawa-ya, 30, Benten-dori ; Tsuru-
ya, in Ishikawa-machi.

Cloisonne. — Goto, in Takashima-
cho (visitors are shown over the
factory) ; Kawano, in Honcho Ni-
chome.

Japanese Stationery. — Tanikawa-
ya, in ilinami Naka-doii Itchome.

Toys, etc. — Nagai, in Honcho-
doii.

Bamboo ami Bead Blinds, CuMtt-
ets, etc. — Moiiyasu, in Benten-dori.

Florists. — Boehmer & Co., 5 and
28, Bluff ; Y''okohama Nm'sery Co.,
21-35, Nakamiua BlufE.

Japanese Theatres, etc. — Minato-
za, in Sumiyoshi-cho ; Hagoromo-
za, in Hagoromo-cho. A sort of
fair is held at night in Basha-michi-
dori and Isezald-cho.

Fublic (jardoi and Cricket
Ground. — At th«; back of the Settle-
ment, behind the Ameiican Con-
stdate ; Blutf Gardens, No. 230.

yeicspapers. — " Japan Daily Ail-
vertiser," " Japan Gazette," " Jajjan
Herald," " Japan Mail." daily ;
'• Japan Times," daily (pubhshed
in Tokyo) ; " Box of Cuiios,"
" Eastern World," weekly.

History. — Yokohama owes its com-
mercial importance to the foreigners who
have settled there. It was an insignificant
fishing village when Commodore Perry
anchored off it in 1854, and gn\ e American
names to several points in the neighbour-
hood. When it was agreed to open a
Treaty Port in this part of Japan, the
choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama,
but on the thriving town of Kanagawa,
on the opposite side of the small bay, now
pai-tially filled in. But the Japanese
Government, finding Kanaga\\a incon-
venient because of its situation on the
Tokaido. at a time when collisions be-
tween foreigners and the armed retainers
of the Daimyos passing to and from the
capital were to be apprehended, gave
facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama
instead. Thither accordingly the mer-
chants, anxious to openui) trade, repaired
in 1858. The consuls ijrotested agaiu.-t
the change ; but the only lasting result of
their protest is the retention of the name
Kanagawa in certain official documents
The superiority of the Yokohama an-
chorage doubtless reconciled the foreign
community to the inferior position of the
place on a mud flat facing north. The
greater ijortion of the Settlement, as it
now exists, dates from after the fire of
1866 : and the Bluff, on which mo.st of
the well-to-do residents have their dwell-
ings was first leased for building purposes
in 1867. A large and raiudly growing
native town has sprung up outside the
Foreign Settlement. Waterworks opL-ned
in 1887 supply Yokohama from the
Sagami-gawa, 23 miles distant. New
harbour-woiks were completed in 1896. —
On the 31st December, 1899, the foreign
population of Yokohama, exclusive of
Chinese amounted to 2,039. of whom 922
British and 429 American.

It should be exi^iained that al-
though the streets have names,
these are comparatively little used,
as the numbeiing of the whole
Settlement is continuous, iiTespec-
tive of street names. A similar
remark applies to the Blufi:.

Though Yokohama boasts but
few sights properly so called, the

Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.

101

curio-liunter will here find him-
self in his element ; and to one
newly landed the native town, with
its street-staUs and its theatrical
and other shows, will afford an
interesting spectacle. A visit
should be paid to Noge-yama, close
behind the Railway Station, for
the sake of the general view of the
town and harbour. Here stand
some small, but popular and
representative, shrines dedicated
to the Shintd god of AkLha, to
Doryo, a Buddhist saint, to Fudo,
the great Buddhist god whose chief
shrine is at Narita (see Eoute 5),
and to the Sun-Goddess of Ise
(see Eoute 37). This last, which
crowns the hUl, is generally known
as Daijingu. Festivals are held at
Noge-yama on the 1st, 15th, and
•28th of every month. The temjDle
of Zotoku-iii, dedicated to Yalaishi
Nyorai and situated in Moto-machi
close to the Grand Hotel, celebrates
its festivals on the 8th and 12th of
the month.

Yokohama possesses a Race-
course and a Public Hall, where
EngUsh theatrical and other enter-
tainments are given.

Race meetings, often attended
by His Majesty the Mikado, are
held in spring and autiimn. The
race-course overlooks Mississijjpi
Bay, which affords a charming
objective point for a drive. Indeed,
the whole neighbourhood abounds
in fine landscapes. Fuji shows out
well from the race-course, from
the harbour, and from many other
points.

ROUTE 2.

EXCUESIONS FROM YoKOHAM.\.

]. KAMAEXJEA AND THE DAIBUTSXJ.
2. ENOSHIMA. 3. DZUSHI AND HA-
YAMA. 4. YOKOSUKA, UBAGA, AND
MISAKI. 5. StrOITA AND TOMIOKA.
6. KANAZAWA. [MINE.] 7. BUKEN-
JI. 8. THE CAVES OP TOTSUKA.
9. OYAMA. 10. OISO.

1. — Kamakm'a is reached from
Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokai-
do Railway, changing carriages at
Ofuna Junction. This branch line
continues on to Dzushi and Y'oko-
suka, being altogether 21i miles in
length.

Kamakura, once the popidous
capital of Eastern Japan, has now
shrunk into a quiet sea-side village
which is a favorite resort of the
Y'^okohama residents. The Kaihin-in
Hotel (foreign style), situated under
a pine-gi'ove near that portion of
the shore known as Yui-ga-hama, is
I" hr. by jinrikisha from the station.
The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may
also be recommended. Both jjro-
vide hot and cold salt-water baths.

Kamakura was the seat of goTernment
in Eastern Japan from the end of the
12th to the middle of the 15th century.
Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate
in 1192, chose this i^lace as his capital,
and here was laid the foundation of the
feudal system of government which
prevailed up to the year 1868. The city
of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's
immediate successors, extended all over
the plain and into the recesses of the
different ijahii, or dells, which branch off
from it among the hilla. Its population
is believed to have exceeded one million
in the days of its glory. Kamakm-a was
the scene of innumerable contests be-
tween rival military factions, and of
many bloody deeds. Here, on the sea-
shore, were beheaded the Mongol ambas-
sadors of Kublai Khan {Jap. Kop-pitsu-
retsu), who had imperiously sent to
demand the submission of Japan to his
sway. The city was repeatedly sacked
and laid in ashes, and seems never to
have fully recovered from the disasters
of the year 14.55. The neighbouring city
of Odawara, which next rose into im-
portance as the seat of the powerful H636
family, attracted to itself large numbers

102

Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.

of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin
of which town was completetl by the
founding of Yedo in A.D. I(j03.

The chief sights of Kamakura
are the Temple of Hachiman, the
Daibutsu, or colossal bronze Bud-
dha, and the great image of the
goddess Kwannon. They all lie
within a mile of the hotel.

The Temple of Hachiman, the
God of War, dating from the end
of the l'2th century, stands in a
commanding position on a hill
called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is ap-
proached by a stately aveni^e of
pine-trees leading up the whole
way from the sea-shore. Though
both avenue and temple have
sufEered from the ravages of time,
enough still remains to remind one
of the ancient glories of the place.
Three stone torii lead up to the
temple, which stands at the hesid
of a broad flight of stone steps.
Notice the magnificent icho tree,
nearly 20 ft. in circumference, said
to be over a thousand years old.

In A.D. 1218, the young Shogun Sane-
tomo, having received an additional title
from the Mikado, was about to go in
solemn procession to return thanks at the
temple of Hachiman. He seems to have
had some foreboding of evil ; for, before
leaving the palace, he composed a stanza
which may be thus rendered :

What time its lord, hence issuing.
All tenantless this dwelling leaves.
Be thou still mindful of the spring.
Dear plum-tree standing by the eaves!

The same morning, while he was being
dressed, ho pulled out a hair and gave it
to his attendant, saying, "Keep this in
memory of me." He had been advised
to don armour under his robes, but failed
to adopt the precaution. The ceremonial
was protracted till a late hour. As Sane-
tomo descended the steps iu the dark, a
man sprang upon him from behind this
tree, cut him down, and carried off his
head. Though the assassin, who isroved
to be the high-priest of the temple and
Sanetomo's own nephew, was soon dis-
covered and despatched, the head was
never found. So the hair which Sane-
tomo had given to his faithful retainer
was buried iu its stead.

Before ascending the flight of
steps, the minor shrines to the r.
deserve passing notice. The nearer

one, painted red and called Waka-
miya, is dedicatedto the Emperor
Nintoku, son of Ojin, the God of
War. The further one, renovated in
1890, is called Shirahala Jinja and
dedicated to Yoritomo. The style
and structure are somewhat un-
\asual, black and gold being the only
coloTU's employed, and iron being
the material of the four main
pUlars. The interior holds a small
wooden image of Yoritomo.

A side path leads up hence to the
main temple, which is enclosed in
a square colonnade painted red.
The temple, which was re-erected
in 1828 after having been destroy-
ed by fire seA'en years previously,
is in the Ryobu Shinto style, with
red pillars, beams, and rafters, and
is decorated with small painted
carvings chiefly of birds and
animals. In the colonnade are
several religious palanqiiins (mi-
koshi) used on the occasion of the
semi-annual festivals (15th April
and 15th September), a wooden
image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and
a few relics of Yoritomo, one of
them his skull ichen a youth ! Most
of the relics once preserved in the
temple have been removed to the
residence of the Chief Priest
(Uakozaki Oyatftu-kwan), and are
only exhibited at festival time.

Immediately behind the temple
of Hachiman is a small hill called
Shirahata-yama, whence Yoritomo
is said to have often .admired the
prospect.

The Daibutsu, or Great Buddha,
stands alone among Japanese
works of art,

" a stcitue solid-set.
And moulded in colossal calm."

No other gives such an impression
of majesty, or so truly symbolises
the central idea of Buddhism, — the
spiritual peace which comes of
perfected knowledge and the sub-
jugation of all passion. But to be
fiilly appreciated, the Daibutsu
must be visited many times.

Kamakura.

103

There had been a temiile iu this place
since the 8th century, but the image is of
much later date. Its precise history is
involved in obscurity. Tradition, how-
ever, says that Yoritonio, when taking
part in the dedication of the Daibutsu at
Nara, conceived the desire of having a
similar object of worship at his own capi-
tal, but died before he could put the plan
into execution. One of the ladies of his
Court undertook to collect funds for the
purpose, and in the year 1252 the Kama-
Itura Daibutsu was cast by OnoGoroemon.
History tells of two such image.i. The
ti)-st, a wooden one, was designed by a
priest, who collected money far and wide
amongst all classes, and in 1238 the head
of the image, 80 ft. in circumference, was
in its place, while the leniple in which it
stood was completed in 12'11 and dedicated
in 1243. This image is said to have
represented Amida, and to have been
destroyed by a tyishoon. The second is
spoken of as a gilt bronze image of Shaka,
and the casting is believed to have been
begun in 1252. The present one repre-
sents Amida, and notwithstanding the
difference of name, is probably the bronze
imago referred to above as dating from
1252. It was enclosed in a largo building
50 yds. square, whose roof was supported
on sixty-three massive wooden jjillars.
Many of the rtone bases on which they
rested are still in situ. The temple build-
ings were twice destroyed by tidal waves,
in 1369 and 1494, after which they were
not rebuilt, and the image has ever since
remained exposed to the elements.

The Daibutsu is best seen from
about lialf-waj^ up tbe approacli.
Its dimensions are approximately
as follows : —

Height 49 7

Circumference 97 2

Length of face 8 5

"Width from ear to ear 17 9

Round white boss on fore-
head 1 3

Length of eye 3 11

,, of eyebrow 4 2

„ of ear (I G

„ of nose 3 9

Width of mouth 3 2

Height of bump of wisdom. 9

Diameterof bump of wisdom 2 4
Curls (of which there are

830): Height 9

„ Diameter 1

Length from knee to knee. 3.5 8

Circumference of thumb ... 3

The eyes are of pure gold, and
the silver boss weighs 30 lbs.
avoirdupois. The image is formed
of sheets of bronze cast separately,
brazed together, and finished off on
the oxrtside with the chisel. The
hollow interior of the image con-
tains a small shrine, and a ladder
leads up into the head.

The Temple of Kwannon, known
as Uase no Eicannon, stands not far
from the Daibutsu on an eminence
commanding a beautiftil view of the
sea-shore towards MisaM, and over
the plain of Kamakura. The great
image of the (roddess of Mercy, for
which this temple is celebrated,
stands behind folding-doors which
a small fee to the attendant priest
will suffice to open ; but the figure
can only be indistinctly seen by the
dim light of a few candles. It is of
brown lacquer gilded over, and its
height is 30 ft. 5i in. The ad-
mirable bronze seated figure of
Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was jire-
sented bv the Shogun Ashikaga
Yoshimasa (b. 143G, d. 1490).

Close to this temple is a bold cliff
called Inamura-ga-.mki.

In 1333, when the city of Kamakura
was attacketl by the partisans of the
Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led
by Nitta Voshisada advanced along the
strand from the W. of this hill, but were
unable to pass under the cliff owing to
chevaux-de-frise being placed against it
down to the water's edge, while their
passage in boats was i^'evented by a long
row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600
yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore
climbed the cliff', and after praying to the
Sea-God, tlung his sword into the water,
whereupon the title miraculously re-
treated, leaving a space a mile and a
half wide at the foot of the cliff, along
which he marched his army into Kama-
kura.

Lovers t>f early sculpture and
of Japanese historical and anti-
quarian lore, will find scattered over
Kamakura many minor temples and
other objects to arrest their atten-
tion. Amongst these, the follow-
ing may be enumerated : —

Ennujl, small and dilapidated, but
containing the celebrated image of

104

Route 2. — Excursions from . Yokohama.

Emma-0, Eegent of Hell (see p.
47), called Arai-no-Emma, and
carved by Uiikei.

Legend says that Unkei, having died,
appeared in due course before this re-
doubtable deity, who thus accosted him :
"Thou hast carved many images of me,
but never a true one. Now that thou hast
seen my face, return to earth and show me
as I am." So Unkei, coming to life again,
carved this image, v.hich is, therefore,
said to be Unkei I'omiji-gaeri no gain, that
is, " the v.-ork of Unkei redivivus."

The image is only shown on
application to the custodian. Other
large images line the walls, one of
Shoziika-no-Baba (see p. 49), also by
Unkei, being specially powerful.

Kenchdji is situated in beautiful
but now mostly deserted grounds,
amidst magnificent trees, of which
the rugged hyakusldn (Juniperus
chinensis) is the most x:)rominent
species, and a favourite material
with the carvers of Buddhist
images. The gate is a huge struc-
ture. The main temple contains a
large image of Jizo, and four hun-
dred small gilt ones of the same
divinity carved by Eshin.

A very popular little shrine was
erected in 1890 on Shojoken, the
hill behind Kenchoji, and attracts
such crowds of pilgrims that a
special train is run on the 17th day
of the month for their benefit. The
shrine is dedicated to a goblin
called Jlanzdbo, to whom enormous
quantities of small paper flags are
offered up. These line both sides
of the pathway that leads up the
hill for a distance of 5 cho. A tea-
house near the shrine commands a
splendid "view of Fuji and the sea.
The OhxL-no-in at the very toji
overlooks a maze of small hills and
valleys in the direction of Yoko-
hama.

The ancient Temple of Kokuonji
contains images of the Ju-ni-ten,
nearly life-size, and very large ones
of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikko Bosatsu,
and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed
to the chisel of Unkei.

The Tomb of Yoritomo is a modest

little monument covered with
creeiDers.

The Kamakura-no- Miya was
erected in 1869 in honour of a son
of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called
Oto-no-Miya, who, having failed in
his attempt to overthrow the feudal
government, was capttu-ed, confined
in a cave, and finally assassinated
in A.D. 1335. The temple, which is
in j)ure Shinto style, stands direct-
ly in front of the cave.

Enkakuji possesses the largest
bell in Kamakura. This bell, dat-
ing from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick,
4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about
8 ft. high.

Komyoji, Eishdji, and Jil-roku-ido,
or the Sixteen Pools, in which,
according to an apocryphal tradi-
tion, K5b6 Daishi performed his
ablutions, are also noted.

2. — Enoshima.

This most pictiiresque spot,
though called an island, is more
properly a peninsula ; for only at
high tide is it surrounded by the
sea. The prettiest way there leads
by the road called Shichi-ri-ga-
hama* skirting the beach from
Kamakura, and through the 'vill.
of Katase. The distance from
Kamakirra is 4 miles.

Half-way is the YuLl-ai-gawa, which,
though an insignificant streamlet, is
worthy of mention on account of the
following incident : —

When Nichiren was miraculously deliv-
ered from the hands of the executioner
at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe,
a messenger was at once despatched to
Kamakura to ask for further orders,
while at the same moment a reprieve
was sent from the palace of the Kegent
Tokiyori. The two messengers happen-
ed to meet at this stream, whence the
name of Yuki-ai-gawa, which means "the
Kiver of Meeting." A stone now marks
the spot.

JinriMshas can be taken as far as
Koshigoe,

The hero Yoshitsune alighted at the
small monastery of Mam'pvkuji in this

* Literally, the "seven /(' shore," the
ri in early times in Eastern Japan having
consisted of only C dto instead of 30.

Enoshima. Dzushi.

105

village, when his brother Yoritomo, jeal-
ous of his exiiloits and popularity, denied
him entrance into the city of Kamaknra.
The priests still show the draft of the
letter sent by Yoshitsune, denying the
intrigues imputed to him and protesting
in vain his loyalty. The handwriting is
said to be that of his faithful henchman,
Benkei.

whence it is a short walk across the
neck of sand joining Enoshima to
the mainland.

A more direct way of approach-
ing Enoshima is from Fujisawa
station, whence it is 1 rl. by jiniiki-
sha, or jmrtly by boat down the
river, which is joined 6 rho from
the station. The road branches ofp
r. to Enoshima close to the \'ill.
of Katase, at the entrance of
which stands the temple of Byu-
koji, founded after Nichiren's
death by his disciples, and built
on the spot where his execution
was to have taken place. It posses-
ses a number of fine wood-carvings.

Enoshima, being a popular holi-
day resort, is full of excellent inns.
The best are the Iwamoto-in and
Ebisu-3'a in the vill., and the Kin-
Idro higher up. There is fair sea-
bathing. The shops of Enoshima
are full of shells, corals, and marine
curiosities generally, many of which
are brought from other parts of the
coast for sale. The beautiful glass
rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi),
called hosiujai by the Japanese, is
said to be gathered from a reef deep
below the surface of _the sea not far
from the island of Oshima, whose
smoking top is visible to the S. on
a clear day.

From the earliest ages the island
was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist
Goddess of Luck.

Before the existence of Enoshima, so
says the ancient legend, the site of the
Ijresent cave was the abode of a dragon,
which used to devour the children of the
village of Koshigoe. In the 6th cen-
tury, on the occasion of a violent earth-
quake, the goddess Benten appeared
in the clouds over the spot inhabited by
that monster ; and the island of Enoshima
suddenly rising from the waters, she
descended to it, married the dragon, and

put an end to his ravages. The natives
believe that there exists a subterranean
passage connecting the cave with Fuji.

This cult has now been exchanged
for that of three Shinto goddesses,
to whom several of the temples
have been re-dedicated. But the
spot considered most sacred of all
is the large Cave on the far side
of the island. It is 124 yds. in
depth, the height at the entrance
being at least 30 ft., but diminish-
ing gradually towards the interior.
The rocks near the cave are
frequented by divers, who for a
few cents bring up shell-fish from
the deep, which, however, they may
be suspected of having previously
concealed about their persons.

Ten rho from Enoshima and 28
cho from Fujisawa station, lies the
sea-bathing resort of Kngenuma
(Inn, Kosho-kwan).

3. — DznsHi AND Hatama.

Dzushi, on the railway, 2 J miles
to the S. E. of Kamakura, is the
station for Ilormchi, or Hayama,
as it is now more commonly caUed,
IJ m. distant, which has lately
risen into favour as a sea-side
resort, some of the wealthier re-
sidents of Tokyo and Yokohama
having buUt villas there. A good
road connects Dzushi and Hayama,
which latter place commands a
lovely view, — Fuji, which seems to
rise straight from the waters of
Odawara Bay, forming the central
feature of the scene. The Ililcage-
no-Chnya inn at Horiuchi is apt to
be noisy. Nearer the station, a-
cross a bridge, may be found a
quieter house, the Yosldn-tei, with
better bathing. Half a mile beyond
the Hikage-no-Chaya, stretches the
pretty wooded promontory of
Morula Myojin ; and the walk, for
1^ m. further along the coast to
a point called (Jhhja-saki, where
there is a good inn and capital
bathing, may be recommended.
The Crown Prince has a Avinter
residence close l)y.

106

Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.

i. YOKOSUKA, UbAGA, AND

MiSAKI.

_ Yokosuta is the terminus of the
Ofuna branch line, and is reached
from Y'okohama in 1^ hr. Steamers
also ply between Tokyo, Yokohama,
and Yokosuka. The little line of
railway passes through characteris-
tically Japanese scenery, — wooded
hills rising up abruptly from val-
leys laid out in rice-fields, \\'ith here
and there a cottage or a tiny shrine
halt-hidden in a rustic bower. The
train darts in and out of short
timnels under some of these hills,
before reaching the sea-shore at
Y^okosuka.

Yokosuka {Inn, Mitomi-ya ;
Forei'jn resit., Kaiyo-ken, near the
wharf), which but a few years ago
was a poor village, has rapidly
risen into importance, on account
of the Government Dockyard esta-
blished there. Visitors are not
admitted, excej)t on presentation
of an introduction from the naval
authorities. The town is prettily
situated on a land-locked bay ; but
the suiTOunding wooded heights
are being cut away vertically to
afford more fiat space for the rajiid-
ly growing streets. Its chief
interest for Englishmen lies in the
fact that here lived and died Will
Adams, the first Enghshman that
ever landed on the shores of Japan.

Will Adauis, a native of Gillin^ham in
Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch
ships which reached the southern coast
of Japan on th(! 19th April, A.D. IGOO.
Brought as a prisoner into the presence
of leyasu, Adams soon won the favour
of that astute ruler, who employed him
both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of
diplomatic agent when other English and
Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams'
constantly reiterated desire to behold his
native land again and the wife aud child-
ren whom he had left behind, was to the
last frustrated by adverse circumstances.
He consoled himself by taking another
wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived
until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb
of Yokosuka, where the railway station
now stands.

His grave and that of his Japa-
nese wife are situated on the top of

a bill, J hr. walk from the railway
station. The Japanese call the
place Anjin-saka, from anjin which
means " pilot," that having been
the appellation by which Adams
was commonly known. The tombs
are of stone in the ordinary Japa-
nese style. Will Adams' monument
is without an inscription, while that
of his wife bears the posthumous
title which every Buddhist receives
from the priests of the parish tem-
ple. Not only is the situation of
the graves most jjicturesque, but
the eminence on which they stand
affords a lovely "siew of land and
sea.

Azuma-yama , a high wooded
eminence ^ hr. fi-om Yokosuka by
boat, has been cut through in order
to afford a short water passage to
the Torpedo Station of Naga-ura.
Another vantage-point just outside
the opposite or E. end of Y^oko-
suka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on
which stands a temple of the Nichi-
ren sect, called Ryuhonji, posses-
sing some good carvings. The level
stretches at the foot of the cliffs
have recently been reclaimed fi-om
the sea.

Tlie distance from I'okosuka to
Uraga is 1 ri 32 cho (42 m.)
along an excellent road. A little
more than half-way lies the
hamlet of Otsu, where there is an
inn, good of its kind but apt to
be noisy, with a fine beach for
bathing.

XJrag-a {Inn, Tokuda-ya, in
Higashi-Uraga) is built on both
sides of a very narrow fiord-like
harbour ; and the two diNisions thus
formed are called respectively
Higashi- Uraga and Nishi- Uraga,
i.e.. East and West Uraga. They
are connected by a bridge and a
ferry. Two large dry docks were
opened here in 1899.

In former times all junks entering the
Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for
inspection, and it was here that Com-
modore Perry anchored on the 8th July,
1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre-
sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result

Uraga. Sugifa. Kanazai'n,

107

of which was to open Japan to foreign in-
tercourse .

Uraga px-oduces mizu-ame, ;i sweet
and wholesome iDreparation from
sake malt, somewhat resembling
honey in taste. It is worth while
devoting \ hr. to the climb up
Atago-yama, a hill at the back of
Nishi-Uraga, commanding a tine
view of the town and harbour.
The hills beyond the sea to the E.
are the Boshii range.

Uraga is in daily steam com-
munication Avith Tokyo, the pas-
sage occupying about 4 hours. The
steamers touch at Kachiyama,
Tateyama, and other ports on the
Boshu side.

It is a walk or jinrikisha ride
of 4 n o cho (10 m.) to Misald, lirst
along the sands, and then over a
cultivated ujiland commanding a
fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and
Oyama ranges, and the opposite
shores of Toky5 Bay.

Misaki (Inn, Aoyagi). At Ko-
ajiro, on a small bay, 1 ri to the
N., stands the Marine Biological
Laboratory {Misaki Rinkai Jikken-
jo), connected with the Science
College of the Imperial University
of Tokyo. The marine fauna of
this district being particularly rich
in rare forms, di-edging has pro-
duced results highly interesting to
the zoologist. A lighthouse stands
on the island of Jogashima, 1 m.
from the mainland, with which it
is connected by ferry.

One may complete the tour of
the tSagami Peninsula, at the ex-
tremity of which Misaki is situated,
by a walk of 7 ri (17 m.) along the
coast to Dzushi.

5. SUGITA AND ToMIOKA.

It is a pleasant walk or jinrikisha
ride of about 2 ri from Yokohama
to Sugita (Inns, Azuma-ya and
others), famous for its plum-
blossoms ; and i ri further on to
Tomioka (Inns, Kimjja-ro, Kaihin-
ro), a favourite resort of the Yoko-
hama residents, on account of the

good sea-bathing in Mississippi
Bay. Tomioka may also be easily
reached by boat from the Gutting at
the back of the Settlement in about
40 min., the distance from the
Settlement to the point where the
boat is taken being approximately
1 ri.

G. — Kanazawa. [Mine.]

•Tinrikishas may be taken the
whole way, two men being requir-
ed. The total distance is 4 ri 30
(■ho (H| m.), the road being flat for
the first 6 m. as far as the hamlet
of Seki, and after that, hilly.

[At the hamlet of Tanakn, 1(\
cho beyond SeM, a road prac-
ticable most of the way for
jinrildshas, turns oif r. to a hiU
called Mine, which commands
a wonderfully extensive view.
The finest prospect is towards
the N., looking down on the
multitude of furrowed ridges
that stretch away to the moun-
tains of Chichibu. To the W.,
the sea is visible near Hiratsuka
and Oiso on the Tokaido ;
beyond it is Fuji, with the
(>5rama and Hakone ranges.
The distance from Tanaka to
Mine is 28 cho, nearly 2 m.]
On reaching the crest of the
ridge, the wondi'ous beauty which
has led the foreign residents to be-
stow on this neighbourhood the
name of the Plains of Heaven,
suddenly reveals itself. x\. scene of
perfect loveliness may be enjoyed
from a wayside tea-house called
Kokendo, which nestles under a
pine-tree known as the Fude-sute-
matsu, because a Japanese artist of
olden times here flung away his
pencil in despair. At the spectator's
feet is a wide, cultivated valley,
bordered by pine-clad hills and
opening out to the shores of an
inlet, whose still waters are partly
hemmed in l)y smaU pemnsulas
and islets, with to the 1. the pro-
montory of Kwannon-saki, and on
the opposite side of Tokyo l^ay the

108

Eoute 2. — Excursions from Yokohama.

iong crest of Nokogiri-yama. The
most conspicuous of the islands
are Natsushima (Webster Island),
■with Sarushima (Perry Island)
beyond it, and Eboshi-jima -which
is much smaller and recognisable
by its triangular shape. But a
mere catalogue of names can avail
nothing towards conyeying an idea
of the peculiar magic of a scene
•which might be the original that
inspired the Japanese landscajse-
painter's art.

Kanazawa ( Inns, Chiyo-moto,
Azuma-ya), on the shores of the
Mutsm-a Inlet, is chiefly noted for
its Hak-kei, — a characteristically
Japanese view from a small height
just outside the village. Close to
the ferry at Xojima (Inn, Nishino-
ya), is a celebrated peony garden,
which attracts many visitors
during the season of flowering.
Some of the plants are said to be
over 300 years old. — Kanazawa
may also be reached by the coast
road -^ia Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs.
The way back to Yokohama can be
jjleasantly varied by taking the
jinrildsha road across the neck of
the little peninsula of llisald to
Dzushi station on the Yokosuka
branch of the Tokaido Eailway, a
distance of 2-J- ri (G m.)

This trii3 may advantageously be
combined with a \isit to Kamakura,
the station beyond Dzushi, or to
Yokosuka, \i& Will Adams' tomb.
The whole neighbourhood ofEers
delightful walks, as paths leading
to the top of every hill command
exquisite views.

7. — BrKEXJi.

Bukenji, a temple of the Nichi-
reu sect, about h hr. walk from
Kanagawa station, is a favourite
resort of picnic parties from Y'oko-
hama. From the top of the hUl
there_is a fine view towards Fuji
and Oyama. On the way there, the
(clearly a^Docryphal) grave of Ura-
shima, the Japanese Rii3 Van
Winkle, is passetl (see p. 85).

S. — The Caves of Totstjka.
(Taya no Ana.)

Though known to foreigners as
the Caves of Totsuka, these
caves, or rather galleries cut in the
soft standstone, are really nearer to
Ofuna, the next station beyond
Totsuka on the Tokaido Railway,
4:0 min. run from Yokohama. They
lie at a distance _of 17 chr) (a little
over 1 m.) from Ofuna station, but
nearly 1^ ri from Totsuka station.
Whichever station one decides to
alight at, the trip on to the caves
can be done by jinriMsha, and hes
through pleasing scenery. The
caves are Avell worth a visit. The
best time to choose is the spring,
as the cherry-trees too will then
be seen to advantage. Candles
are provided at a house near the
entrance, also cloaks to ward off
any wet that may di-ip fi'om the
walls, and a local guide ^^ill point
out the Buddhist cai-vings with
which the walls and ceilings are
adorned.

These naves, with their carvings, are a
monumeDt of modern Buddhist piety.
Existing in embryo since the IMiddle Ages
(tradition asserts them to have been
resorted to for the concealment both of
troops, and of treasure in the 1-ith
century), they have only been excavated
to their present extent during the last
fifty years. In the year 1851, a man
called Sato Shichizaemon, whose family
had for generations been rich peasants in
this locality, was urged in a dream to
devote his life to making these caves into
an imperishable shrine to various Bud-
dhist divinities, and especially to the
goddess Benten. This he accordingly did
until his death in 18y2, at the age of 81,
employing his own money for the enter-
prise and local talent for the carvings.
It is intended to continue the work by
representing the whole life of Buddha.

Among the siibjects pourtrayed
may be distinguished angels, dra-
gons, lions, birds both natural and
mythical, the Twelve Signs of the
Zodiac, the Eighteen Eakan, the
Thirty-Three Kwannon of the dis-
trict of Chichibu, and other Bud-
dhas innumerable. To explore the
caves properly takes about 1 hr.

Oyama. Oiso.

109

9. — Oyama.

This celebrated mountain, 4,150
ft. high, is most easily reached
from Yokohama by alighting at
Hiratsnka station on the Tokaidd
EaUway, a rrni of a little over 1 hr.;
thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of
Oyama on the lower slope, 3J ri,
(9j]- m.) distant. It is a favonrite
goal of ijilgi-ims, who continne to
be attracted to its shrine, althongh
the old Buddhist objects of wor-
ship have here, as in so many other
parts of the coTintry, been replaced
hj comparatively obscure Shinto
deities.

Indeed, according to Sir Ernest Satow,
it is uncertain who these gods are : but
the best authority asserts that the chief
deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the
goddess of Mount Fuji. The people of
the neighbouring country-side often call
the mountain by the name of Srlison-s-an .
Yet another name is Afuri-yama.

•Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of
Koyasu (Inn, Kami-ya), a long
street of steps, which at its upper
end changes its name to Oyama
(Inns, Koma-ya, with a curious
garden ; Izn-ya). Such of the
inhabitants as do not keep houses
of entertainment for the pilgrims
who flock here chiefly during the
month of June, busy themselves
with the manufacture of rosaries,
toys, and domestic utensils. The
traveller will notice that the posts
of two shrines in the village are so
much cut away as scarcely any
longer to supjport the roof, — a
result of the visit of many devotees
who believe that the chips act as
charms.

The ascent and descent of the
mountain take from 4i to 5 hrs.,
but are far more fatiguing than
most climbs of the same length,
owing to the multitude of steps.
A little way beyond the inns, a
stream rushes out of a hole in a
rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and
falls into a pool, in which it is con-
sidered highly meritorious to bathe
as long as the cold can be endured.
Ten cho further np, the entrance

to the sacred domain is indicated
by a iorii perched on the top of a
flight of steps. Here the traveller
has to choose between the Otoko-
zaka (man's ascent), and Onna-
saka (woman's ascent), — the former
a continuous series of steep flights
of high steps, the latter longer but
less fatiguing. Both j)aths unite
higher up. The jjrospect from this
latter point includes the plains of
Sagami and Musashi, with the
river Banyu, capes Misaki and
Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo
Bay, the sea, and the mountains of
Kazusa. Some flights of steps lead
up to the main temple, whence it
is a climb of 28 rlul to the summit,
which commands a view of Fuji,
the wooded top of Tanzawa, the
mountains of Niklvo, Enoshima, etc.
(Tanzawa, whose name occurs
several times in this volume, is a
sinall range situated close to
Oyama on the Avest. It includes
Sobutsu-yama, Tanzawa projjer,
and Bodai-yama, but offers little
interest.)

10.— Oiso.

Oiso is 1|- hr. from Yokohama by
the Tokaido Railway. The Japa-
nese come here to loiter on the
beautiful beach and bathe in the
sea. There is a lovely ^dew : — to
the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, and
the peninsula of Izu ; ahead, Yries
Island ; to the 1., the promontory
of Misaki with the islet of Eno-
shima. The *Tdryu-kican at Oiso
is an excellent inn in Japanese
style, at which some simple Euro-
pean dishes may be obtained, and
where there is a resident doctor.
There is also a foreign restau-
rant, said to be fair.

Oiso, though appirentlj- so insignift-
cant a pk'ce, boasts considerable anti-
quity. Mention of it occurs in the storj'
of the Soga Brethren's Revenge, in the
l'2th century (see p. 84). Quite lately it
has again assumed a sort of importance.
Here the leaders of the Japanese political
world have their villas, where those in-
formal meetings are held which fore-
shadow the creation or overthrow of
coteries and Cabinets.

110

Route 8. — Yokohama to Tokyo by Rail,

ROUTE ;l
Yokohama to Tokyo by Eail.

8 S

Xame.-i

of 1 Remarks

Stations > j

Urn.
12

14:1
18

YOKOHAMA ..

Kanagawa

Tsiirumi

Kawasaki . .

Omori

Shiiiiigawa ....

TOKYO (Shim-
bashi) ...

i
Express runs
through.

Change carri-
ages for Sub-
urban and
K or th ern
'•Railways.

This railway, biiilt by English
engineers and finished in the
iiutiimn of 1872, was the first line
opened to traflic in Japan. The
journey fi-om Yokohama to Tokyo
occupies 50 uiin. The line skirts
the shores of Tokyo Bay, with the
old Tokaidd Mghwm/ recognisable at
intervals on the r. by its avenue of
pines, (xlinipses are caught of the
hills of Kazusa beyond the bay.

Soon after leading Y'^okohamu, the
Toliaido Kail way branches off ].
Observe the fine Aiew of Fuji near
the first station.

Kanagawa, once a noted post-
town on the Tokaidd, and intimate-
ly connected with the early settle-
ment of foreigners in this part of
Japan. (See p. 100).

On the Tokaidd avenue near Xamamugi,
between this station and the next, occur-
red the umrder of Mr. Richardson, who,
with two other I'^nglishmen ;iud a lady,
got entangled in the armed procession of
Shimazu Rabnro, prince of Satsuma, on
the 14th September, 1862, — an outrage
which ultimately led to the bombard-
ment of Kagoshiiua. The whole story
will be found in Black's Young Japan,
Chap, 13.

Kawasaki (Inn, Asadu-ya) is
noted for a temple situated 1| m.
from the station, dedicated to Kob5
Daishi, and commonly known as

JJaishi Sama. An electric tramway
connects the two places.

Local legend attributes the sanctity of
the spot to an image of Kobo Daishi
earvea by that saint himself while in
China, aud consigned by him to the
waves. It floated to this coast, where it
was caught in a fisherman's net, and
being conveyed ashore, performed nume-
rous miracles. The trees in the temple-
grounds, trained in the shape of junka
under sail, attest the devotion paid to
this holy image by the sea-faring folk.

So great is its popularity that
special trains are run on the 21st
of each month to accommodate the
crowds that -visit it. The chief
festival takes place on the 21st
March, when the grounds are filled
with cheap stalls and itinerant
shows. The temple possesses some
excellent carvings and a handsome
gateway erected in 1897. A Plum
Garden [Bai-en), with pleasant tea-
houses attached, adjoins the temple
grounds, and is one of the show-
places of the fragrant blossom.

The river crossed just beyond
Kawasaki is the Tamagaioa or
Hokufjo, the upper course of which
is romantically beautiful, and is
described in Ete. 27, Sect. 3. Ex-
tensive pear orchards stretch on
either side of the line. Between
this station and the next, the
whole Hakone range, Buko-zan,
and the other mountains of Chichi-
bu come in view ahead to the 1.
On nearing

Omori, the wooded bluff seen
1. is the site of the celebrated
temple of Ikeyami. Immediately
above the station lie the groundi?
of a tea-house commanding a fine
prospect, and the range of the Im-
perial Japanese Kifle Club.

Some extremely ancient shell-heaps
discovered here by Professor E. S. Morse,
but since removed, have been the subject
of vehement discussion among the learn-
ed. Mention of them will be found in
Thinffs Japanese, article "Archaeology."

Approaching

Shinagawa, we see the forts
buUt in Tokyo Bay during the

latter days of the Shogunate, to

QA^^ei'SOUJO 9NIAVM9N3 gaOAOX

±u SniDa , „ ,

from the British Lesration.— (Japa- | is a schedide :—

THE CITY OF TOKYO

Tinoi £N6R*VrNG OmCE.TOKIO

Route 4. — Tokyo.

Ill

impede hostile access to the great
city, but now dismantled because
(iseless in modern warfare.

The numerous factory chimneys
seen on nearing Tokyo are an in-
novation of the last decade. Many,
it will be noticed, are of thin iron
tubing instead of the usual brick.
This plan is adopted as a safeguard
against earthquakes, which natural
visitation afEects the Tokyo-Yoko-
hama district with special fre-
quency, owing to the fact that (as
demonstrated by Prof. Milne) two
lines of seismic activity here in-
tersect.

Just beyond the gas-works, the
line skirts r. the prettily laid out
garden of the 8hiba Pukyu, one of
the minor Imperial palaces. A little
further on, the noble trees in the
grounds of the summer palace called
Mama FdPzyn are seen also to the r.;
and soon after, the train enters the

Shimbaslii terminus, and the
traveller is in Tokyo.

ROUTE 4.

Tokyo.

Tokyd, formerly Yedo.

Hotels. — Hotel Metropole, in
Tsukiji ; Imperial ( Teiknku) Hotel,
centrally situated.

Japanese Inns. — Taizan-kwan,
and Tori-kwan, near the Imperial
Hotel.

Restaurants . — - (ForeignJ'ood)
Shimbashi Terminus (upstairs) ; Sei-
yo-ken, in Ueno Park ; San-en-tei,
in Shiba Park ; Fujimi-ken, not far
from the British Legation. — {Japa-

nese food) Yaozen, at Han-ya, Asa-
kusa ; Yaomatsu, at Mukdjiraa ;
Hirasei, in Fukagawa ; Tokiwa-ya,
in Hamacho (Kyu Hana-l'ashild).

Tea-houses (for entertainments
in Japanese style). — Koyo-kwan
(Maple Club), in 8hiba Park ; Naka-
mura-ro, at llyogolai ; Umegawa-ro,
in Ueno Park.

Club. — The Tokyo Club, at Saiwai-
bashi, with mixed foreign and
Japanese uiembership.

Foreign Jegaivrns. — Great Britain.
], Koji-machi Gobancho ; United
States, 1, Akasaka Enold-zaka ;
France, 1 . Eda-machi Itchome ;
Germany, 14, Nagata-cho ; Holland
(Denmark and Norway), II Shiba
Sakae-cho.

General Post Office di Central Tele-
graph Office. — At Yedo-bashi. Sub-
offices in various districts of the
city.

Parks. — Shiba, Ueno, Asakusa.

Museums. — The H a k ii b u t s u -
kwan, in Ueno Park ; Commercial
Museum {Sho-hiii Chinretsu-kwan),
near Shimbashi terminus : Museum
of Arms {Yusha-kwan), in the
grounds of the Shokonsha temple
at Kudan.

Public Library. — The Tosho-
kwan, in Ueno Park.

Churches. — Church of England,
in Shiba Sakae-cho ; American
Episcopal, Union Church (Pro-
testant), Roman Cathohc, — aU in
Tsukiji.

Theatres. — Kabuki-za, in Kobild-
ch5 ; Meiji-za, in Hama-cho.

Wrestling. — At Eko-in, in Honjo,
twice yearly for ten days in winter
and spring. Also at other times
and places not fixed.

Bazaars (Kicankoba). — At Shim-
bashi bridge, in Shiba Park, and
in Ueno Park {Shohin Chinrei.su-jo).
Fixed prices.

A Railway, officially styled the
Tokyo and Akabane Junction, but
generally known as the Circular
liailway, aifords an easy means of
reaching certain points on the out-
skirts of the city. The following
is a schedule : —

112

Route 4. — Tokyo.

o "S 1 Xames

lil of

Remarks.

S S Stations

i»

SHIMBASHI

31m.

Shinagawa

Meguro

7i-

Shibuya

Shinjiku Jet

( Change f oiHa-
? chioji Branch.

Mejiro

13]

Itabashi

161

AKABAXE Jet.

J ChajiKe for the
* North.

An Urban Hoihcay, ninning part-
ly througli the old castle moat,
with, stations at lida-machi, Ushi-
gome, Yotsnya, and Shinano-
maclu, connects with the Circular
Eailway at Shinjiku.

Conveyances. — Jinrikishas are in
universal use. Tram-cars, not much
liatronised by the gentry or by
Europeans, because usually crowd-
ed with the Japanese lower classes,
run fi-om the Shimbashi terminus
along the principal thoroughfares
to Ueno and Asakusa. Omnibuses
of a sort are numerous.

Livery Stables, — Tokyo Basha
Kabu-shiki Gwaisha, with offices at
the Imperial Hotel, at Monzeki-
mae in Tsukiji, and at Kanda
Nishiki-chd.

Steam Communication. — The com-
pany called Tokyo Wan Kisen
Gwaisha runs steamers daily to
Uraga and Yokosuka, Chiba, Ki-
sarazu, and other ports on the
opposite side of the bay, and occa-
sionally to Kominato and other
ports on the Pacific Coast of the
Kazusa-Boshu peninsula, to Atami,
and other poi-ts in Izu. Its steam-
ers start fi-om Beigan-jima.

The Tsu-un Gwaisha runs daily
steamers on the Tonegawa,— the
Kami-Tone, or Upper Biver hne,
taldng passengers to Gyotoku, Seki-
yado, Koga, and numerous minor
villages, while the Shimo-Tone, or
Lower Biver line, branches off E.
at Shinkawa for Sawara, Tsuno-
miya, and Omigawa, whence S. to

Choshi, and N. to Ofunatsu and
Hokoda on the Kita-iu'a Lagoon.
These steamers start from Eyogoku-
bashi.

The local steamers are but little
used by foreigners and by the
better class of Japanese, as they
are small and make scant preten-
sion to comfort. There is not even
always a distinction of classes,
though it is sometimes possible to
secure a separate room by paying
the price of five tickets. The fares
are extremely low.

The following are some of the
chief shops at which articles likely
to interest the tourist are sold : —

Poreetaiu. —jNIikawa-ya, at Owari-
cho Itchome ; Satsuma ware at
Kono, No. 18, Shiba Tamachi, Shi-
chome ; and at Itami, No. 5, Nihom-
bashi, Hakuya-cho.

Lacquer. — Kuroe-ya, at T5ri It-
chome ; Hayashi, in Muromachi,
Nihom-bashi.

Bronze. — Miyao, at No. 1, Nihom-
bashi. Hon-Shirokane-cho (large
things) ; ]VIikawa-ya, at Soto-Kanda,
Hatago-chd Itchome (chiefly small
things suited to foreign needs).

Silver irare. — Itami, as above.

Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at No. S,
Nihom-bashi Shin-emon-cho.

Ivory. — MaruM, in Himono-cho,
Nihom-bashi ; Toyama, at Ginza
Ni-chome, and at Higashi Naka-
dori ; Miyamoto Sho, at 17 Asakusa,
Saruya-cho ; Kaneda, 13, Ogacho.

Bamboo-vorlc. — Fujimra-a, at
Kojimachi Itchome.

Old Silk and Embroideries. — Iwa-
moto Denshichi, at No. 16, Nihom-
bashi Kawasekoku-cho ; Morita, at
No. S, Nihom-bashi Sanai-cho.

Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, in Siaruga-
cho, with show-rooms upstairs ;
Daimaru, in Hatago-cho ; Shiroki-
ya, in Tori Itchome ; Mizushima
(chiefly modern embroideries and
European articles for presents), in
Honcho Itchdme, — aU in the
Nihom-bashi district.

Sakai Rugs. — ^Fujimoto, at Ginza
Shi-chome.

Shops. Festivals

iia

Paper an/A Faas. — Haibara, No.
1, Nihom-bashi, Tori Itchome.

Bolls. — Jikken-dana (fine display
for girls' festival, 3rd March, and
boys' festival, 5tb May).

Crape Paper Picture Books. —
Hasegawa, in Hiyoshichd near
SMmbasM Station.

Coloured Prints. — Kobayashi, at
Asakusa Komakata ; Ikeda, at
Owari-ch5 Ni-chome.

Photographs. — Ogawa, at No. 13,
Kyobashi Hiyoshi-cho ; Okamoto,
at Ginza San-chome.

Bookseller. — Maruzen, at Nihom-
bashi, Tori San-chome.

Forei'pi, Proulsioa Dealer. — Kame-
ya, at Ginza Takekawa-cho.

Curios in general. — Ikeda, at
Owari-cho Ni-chome ; Joko, at
Kydbashi Yumi-cho ; Murata Kiui-
bei, at Nihom-bashi Kawasekoku-
cho ; Sawada-ya, at No. 17, Ginza
Itchome ; Daizen, in Naka-ddri
(chiefly for expensive articles).

There is also an interesting street
called Naka-ddri, running parallel
to the main thoroughfare between
Kyobashi and Nihom-bashi, full of
shops where old curios and brocade
are exposed for sale.

Chief Populae Festivals.

Monthly, 5th

Monthly, 10th (October,

special)

Monthly, 17-18th

Monthly, 21st (March,

special)

Monthly, 24th (September,

special)

First Day of the Hare

{Hatsu-u)

AprHlTth

April 18th

May and November 6-8th.

June 3rd ....
June 3-14th.

NAME OF FESTIVAL.

Suitengfi

WHERE HELD.

Kaldgara-cho.

Kompira Tora-no-mon.

Kwannon Asakusa.

Baishl Kawasaki

Afago Jinja Atago-shita.

IVIid-July* .

July 7-1-ith
July 9-lOth

July l.jth

July 15th

September ll-2Uth
Sejit ember loth . .
October r2-13th

Myokendu

Toshogu

Sanja Matsuri

Shokonsha (races,

wrestling, etc.)

Ejumano Jinja

Tenno Matsuri

Kaica-biraki ("Opening
of the Eiver")

Tenno Matsuri

Shi-man Boku-sen
Nichi..

Sanno

Hikaica Jinja

Shimmei Matsuri

Ka nda Myqjin

0 Eshiki (Anniversary
of Nichiren's death.)

November 22-2Sth 0 Ko Mairi .

November (on Days of the
Bird, Torivo hi)

Torino Machi ...

Yanagi-shima.

Shilja and Ueno Parks.

Asakusa.

Kudan.

ligura and Aoyama.
Shinagawa, Y'otsuya,
Asakusa, Senji.

Ryogoku.
Nakabaslii.

Asakusa Kwannon.

Nagata-cho.

Alcasaka.

Shiba.

Kanda.

Ikegami and Hori-no-

uchi.
Monzeki temple at

Asakusa.

* Sometimea delayed by rainy weather to early August.

114

Noide i. — Tdkyd.

Temples having laontbly festivals are most crowded in January.
May, and September. Further the 1st. loth, and 28th of each month
are more or less specially observed.

AMn to tlie popular festivals (matsurl or ennichi), are the following
fairs {ichi), held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable
purchases : —

NAME OF FESTIVAL.

WHERE HFLL).

December 13th Tenno Soma ShinagaAva.

December 15th HacMman Fukagawa.

Kwanaon Asfikusa.

Kaivda Myojin Kandji.

Shimmei Shiba.

Atayo Atago-shita.

Tenjin Hirakawa.

Fiirlo Yagen-bori.

December 17-I8th...
December 20-21st . . .
December 22-23rd . . .
December 23-24:th . . .

December 25th

December 27-28th.

The rite of Walking over Fiie (Hl-wituri) may be witnessed at the
temple of Ontake at Kudan on the iJth April and 7th September. The
less interesting Ih-dejil b> Boiling Wnter {Kutja-darhi) takes place on the
previous da.\ .

Floweks.

rinm-bios.suins ( (Jme). — Kamada.
on the old Tokaido between CJmori
and Kawasaki : Kameido Ume-
yashiki and Kinegawa Ume-
yashiM, l)oth close to Mukojima,
Januar> to beginning of March.

Cherry-hlossoms (Sakura). — Ueno,
Mukdjima, and Shiba, early in
April ; Koganei. middle of April.
So many avenues of cherry-trees
have been planted in Tokyo during
the last twenty years, that for a
brief space in spring the whole city
is more or less a show of these
lovely blossoms.

Peonies (Botan). — Florists' gar-
dens at Somei, end of April ; Sen-
kwa-en and Shokwa-en in Azabu.
beginning of May.

Wistarias {Fuji). — Kameido. first
week in May.

Azaleas (Tsutsuji). — Florists' gar-
dens at Okubo-mtura, early in May.

Irises (Haroa-shobn). — HoriMri.
beyond Mukdjima, early in June.

Convolvuli {Asagao). — Florists'
gardens at Iriya in Shitaya, end of
July and beginning of August.

Lotus-jlowers (Hasu). — Lake Shi-
nobazu at Ueno, and the Palace
moats, beginning of Augiist. These

dowers can only be seen to perfec-
tion during the morning hoiu's.

Chrysapfhemums (Kikii). — Dan-
go-zaka and Asakusa, beginning of
November.

Maples (Momijl). — Kaianji at
Shinagawa. beginrdng of Novem-
ber ; Oji, middle of November.

Principal Places to visit. — Shiba
and Ueno Parks (tombs of the
Tokugawa Shoguns in both, the
former more easily accessible).
Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa
and neighboiudng park, Hakubutsu-
kwan Museiuu at Ueno, the Kwan-
koba Bazaar in Shiba, Atago Tower
for view of the city. Drive along
the main thoroughfare (Ginza) to
Nihom-bashi and round the inner
moat {Naka-bori).

Time of Chief Points by jinrikisha
with two coolies :

From Shimbashi terminus to : —

Imperial Hotel 5 ilin.

Tokyo Club 5 „

Hotel Metropole 12 „

British Legation 18 „

United States Legation... 10 „

Shiba Park 10 „

Ueno Park 35 „

Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 „

History. Shiha Park.

115

HisTiiEY. — Tbe city ia of comparatively
modem origin. Down to the middle ages,
most of the ground which it covers was
washed by the sea or occnpied by lagoons.
On the sea-shore stood, in the 15th centu-
ry, the fishing hamlet of I'e-do ("estuary
gate'"), _near which a certain warrior,
named Ota Dokwan, built himself a
fortress in the year 14.50. The advantages
of the position from a military point of
view were discerned by Hideyoshi, who
therefore caused his general, leyasu, to
take possession of the castle, and when
leyasu himself became Shogun iu 1G03.
he made Yedo his capital. From that
time forward Japan thus practically had
two capitals, — Kyoto in the west, where
the Mikado dwelt in stately seclusion,
and Yedo in the east, whence the Shogun
held sway over the whole land. The
latter'a feudal retainers, — the Daimyos, or
territorial nobility were obliged to reside
in Yedo for half of each year. On the
fall of the Shogunate in 18C8, the Mikado
came and took up his abode in Yedo, and
soon after the name of the city was
changed to Tokyo or Tokei, these being
alternative methods of pronouncing the
Chinese characters jjT f?. with which the
name is written. The meaning of the
term Tokyo is "Eastern Capital." It was
given in contradistinction to Saikyo, or
"Western Capital," the name by which
Kyoto was re-christened. The Emperor's
palace stands in the centre of the city,
within a double line of moats, on the site
once occupied by_the Shogun's castle,
and earlier still by Ota Dokwan'a fortress.
A whole network of canals, traversing
the business quarter of the city, connects
these with the Sumida-gawa.

Tokyo has been burnt down and built
uj) again many times, fires having former-
ly been as common in this wooden city
as at Constantinople. It has also sufi'ered
much from earthquakes, especially from
what is still remembered as the great
earthquake of 1855. At the present day
Tokyo covers an immense area, popularly
estimated at 4 ri in every direction, in
other words, 100 square miles.

The city ia divided for administrative
purposes into fifteen districts (Ku), viz : —
1, Koji-machi ; 2, Kanda : 3, Nihom-bashi ;
4, Kyobashi ; 5, Shiba ; 6, Azabu ; 7, Aka-
saka ; 8, Yotsuya : 9, Ushigome ; 10, Koishi-
kawa ; 11, Hongo ; 12, Shitaya ; 1:3, Asa-
kusa ; 14, Honjo ; 15, Fukagawa. The
principal suburbs are Shiuagawa S., Naito
Shinjiku W., Itabashi N. W., .and Senju
N. E.

Since 1869, a great change has taken
place in the outward appearance of the
city. Most of the yashikl. or Daimyos'
mansions, have been pulled down to
make room for buildings in European
style, better adapted to modern needs.
The two-sworded men have disappeared,
the palanquin has given place to the
iinrikisha, and foreign dres.? has been very

generally adopted by the male half of the
population. But Tokyo ia picturesque
enough, and, as seen from any height has
a tranquil and semi-rural aspect owing to
the abundance of trees and foliage, — an
effect increased of late years by the plant-
ing of numerous avenues of cherry-trees,
which, early in April, transform the town
into a garden of blossom.

A plan of city improvement has been
adopted, in consequence of which the
narrower streets of any district burnt
down are widened, and better sanitary
arrangements introduced.

Waterworks are in process of construc-
tion to supply Tokyo with water from the
river Tamagawa.

Owing to the shape and the vast
extent of the city, it is impossible
to combine the chief sights in a
single round. The best plan is to
take them in gi'oups, according to
the direction in which they lie.
The following description proceeds
on this principle.

1. — Shiba Pake. Temples and
Tombs of the Shoguns. The

KWANKOBA. GeAYES OF THE

FOKTT-SEVEN IiONINS (SeNGAKUJI).

Atago-yama.

From the 8himbashi Kailway
terminus, a long naiTow street,
called Hikage-cho at the beginning
and Shimmei-mae at the end, leads
to Shiba Park, and is particularly
well worth strolling along for the
sake of the shops. Nowhere can
one more easily pick up the thou-
sand and one little articles that are
in daily use among the people.

Passing in by the Daimon, or
Great Gate, we turn through the
park r. to the Kioankoba, one of
the best bazaars in T5ky6, where
everything is sold at fixed prices ;
or if one enter Shiba Park by the
N. gate ( Onari-Mon), the Kwankdba
will be on the 1.

Shiba Park (Shiba Komrhi) formed, till
1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist
temple of Zdjoji, the head-quarters in this
city of the Jodo sect. Here are still
preserved the Blortuary Temples {Go Rei-
ya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns,
leyasu, the founder of that dynasty and
of Yedo, having taken Zojoji under his
special protection, and chosen it as the
temple where the funeral tablets {ihai't of

116

Route 4. — Tokyo.

himself and his descendants should be
preserved. The temple had been
originally founded in 1393, but wrts re-
moved iu 1596 to the present site. The
partial transfer of the temple to the Shin-
toists, iu 1873, naturally led to friction
between them and the Buddhists, the
gravest consequence of which was the
destruction by fire of the magnificent
main building on the 1st January, 187i. It
has been replaced by a new build-
ing, smaller and much less imposing.
Only the large gate (sammon) remains just
as it was built in 1623. This temple,
which is used for popular worship, must
not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary
Temples.

The following is a list of the Tokugawa
Shoguus. Those whose names are marked
with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at
the opposite end of Tokyo; those whose
names have a dagger prefixed lie at
Xikko, 100 miles to the X. of Tokyo, and
the others at Shiba.

PEIiSONAL
NAME.

rOSTHCMOU.S
TITLK.

A.D.

1. tieyasu Toshogu 1616

'-'. Hidetada Taitoku-In 1632

3. tiemitsu Taiyu-In 1651

4. *Ietsuna Geny u-In 1080

5. *Tsunayo8hi . . .Joken-In 1709

6. lenobu Bunsho-In 1713

7. Tetsugu Yiisho-In 1716

8. *i'oshimune . . .Yutoku-In 17ril

9 . leshige Junshin-In 1761

10. *Ieharu Shimmei-ln 178G

11. *Ienari Buukyo-In 1841

12. leyoshi Shintoku-Iii 1853

13. *Iesada Onkyo-In 1858

U. lemochi Shotoku-In 1866

15. Yoshinobu (usually called Kei-

ki), abdicated, and is still living
in retirement st Tokyo.

The Shiba Temples, which
count among the chief luarvels of
Japanese art, should, if possible, be
visited on the forenoon of a fine
day. OtherM'ise their situation, and
the black boarding which has been
put up to ward off the attacks of
the weather, will interfere ■with the
full enjoyment of then- minutely
elaborate decorations. They may
best be taken in the following order.
Persons pressed for time might
limit themselves to an inspection
of the temple and tomb (Octagonal
Shrine) of the •2nd Shogun only
(see p. 120).

The entrance to the Mortuary
Shrines of letsugu and leshige,
the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is

immediately opposite the Kwan-
koba. A highly ornamented gate
called the Ni-Ten Mon, or (rate
of the Two Deva Kings, leads into
a court containing numerous stone
lanterns offered by Daimyos as a
mark of respect to the memory of
their deceased lord and master, the
Shogun. At the opposite end of the
court is the Choku-r/alcu Mon, or
Gate of the Imperial Tablet, so
called from a tablet hung over the
hntel, containing in gold letters the
posthumous name of the 7th Sho-
gun in the fac-simile of the hand-
writing of the Mikado known to
history as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In
(d. 1737). This gate is remarkable
for its pillars with dragons twisted
round them, originally gUt over a
coating of red oxide of iron. Pass-
ing through this gate, we enter an
inner court hned with bronze lan-
terns, two hundred and twelve in
all, dating some fi'om A. D. 1716,
some from 1761, also the gift of
Daimyos, and ha\'ing r. a behry and
1. a cistern for holy water. Hence
through a third gate called the
0 Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, on
either side of which extends a
gaUery with beautifully painted
carvings of flowers and bii'ds in the
panels. Observe the angel on the
ceUing, the work of Kano Ryosetsu.
A short colonnade of black i)illars
edged with gold leads to the portico
of the temple, where, among other
triumphs of carving, are two
dragons, called " the Ascending and
Descending Dragons" (Nobori-ryu
and Kudari-ryu), which serve as
beams to connect the temple with
two pillars outside.

Tii to this point the pubhc has
free admittance. Those desirous
of seeing the interior of the temple,
together with the tombs, must
apply to the custodian, and pay
him on departing a fee of 20 sen per
head. Boots must of course be
removed before entering. (These
observations hold good at all the
other Mortuary Temples.) The
-visitor is led directly into the

Shiba Temples.

117

sanctum containixig the altar.
And here be it noticed that each
of these Mortuary Temples consists
of three parts, — an outer oratory
(haiden), a connecting gallery or
corridor {ai-iio-ma), and an inner
sanctum (hondcn). In each of these
one finds oneself in a blaze of
gold, colours, and elaborate ara-
besques, which, especially if the
day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by
their briUiancy. In feudal times,
when the Shogun came to worship
the spirits of his ancestors, he
alone ascended to the sanctum,
the gi'eater Daimyos ranged them-
selves next to him in the corridor
below, and the lesser nobihty oc-
cupied the oratory.

The altar of this temple is sepa-
rated from the corridor by one of
those bamboo blinds bound with
silk, which, together with a pecuhar
kind of banner, temj^er the brillian-
cy of the other decorations. The
sanctum contains three double-
roofed shiines of the most gor-
geous gold lacquer, picked out with
body-colour below the eaves, and
held together by costly and elabo-
rate metal-work. That to the r.
contains a wooden image of the
father of the 6th Shogun, that in
the middle an image of the 7th
Shogun, and that to the 1. one of
the 9th Shdgun, together with the
funeral tablets of each. The
images, which are considered sacred
because presented by Mikados, are
never shown. On either side of
each shiine stand wooden statu-
ettes of the Shi-Tenno, who guard
the world against the attacks of
demons. In front are Kwannon
and Benten. The wall at the back
is gilt, while the altar and two
tables in front are of splendid red
lacquer. In innumerable places
may be seen the three-leaved
asarum or kamo-aoi, which is the
crest of the Tokugawa family, and
the lotus, the Buddhist emblem of
purity. The altar is protected at
night by massive gilt gates, orna-
mented with the famUy crest and

conventional floM'ers. Descending
into the corridor, and noticing as
we pass the gorgeous paneUing of
the ceiling, we reach the oratory,
where the decorations are on a
similar scale of magnificence. Ob-
serve the conventional paintings of
Uons on the wall. Under the
baldachin sits on festival days (12th
and 13th of each month, when visi-
tors are not admitted) the abbot of
Zojoji, while the priests are ranged
around at small lacquer tables.
The lacquer boxes on these tables
contain scroUs of the Buddhist
sutras. As the guide leads the
way from the temple to the tombs,
observe on the eaves the carvings
of musical instruments, lions,
dragons, etc. Observe, too, the
carvings of unicorns (kirin) on the
Oshi-kiri Mon, or Dividing Gate,
which is now passed through.
Although the carving is open-work,
the dragons appear quite different
according to the side from which
they are viewed. Thence, through
a noble coui't with more bronze
lanterns, to a stone staircase which
leads up to the site of the Tombs, —
that of the 7th Shdgun to the 1.,
that of the 9th Shogun to the r.
Below each tomb is a highly
decorated oratory. The tombs are
of stone, in the shape called hoto
(treasure shrine), which somewhat
resembles a pagoda. They stand
on an octagonal gi'anite base, with
a stone balustrade. Their simplici-
ty contrasts strongly with the
lavish magnificence of all that goes
before. As lilitford says in his
Tales of Old Japan, " The sermon
may have been preached by design,
or it may have been by accident,
but the lesson is there."

The pattern on the black copper
sheeting round the wall enclosing
the tomb, is intended to represent
the waves of the sea. The body is
said to be buried at a depth of 20
ft., and to have been coated with
vermilion and charcoal powder to
prevent decay. The tomb of the
9th Shogun is a replica of that of

Shiba Temples

119

the 7tb. On lea\ing- this place, we
pass the oratory of the 7th Shogun,
and notice the exquisite carvings
in high relief of peacocks on the
panels of the gate.

Leaving this temple by the Cho-
ku-gnlcu Mo7i, and turning r.
through rows of stone lanterns, we
soon reach r. another splendidly
carved gate, which gives access to
the temple and tombs of the Gth,
12th, and 14th Shoguns. In

arrangement, the temj)le closely
resembles the one we have just
left ; but the gilt is fresher, the
carvings are truer to nature, and
the general impression more
magniticent, the result jjerhaps
of the interest taken by the 6th
Shogun in the preparation of
his own last resting-place. The
flowers and birds in the spaces
between the cornice and the lintel
of the oratory are perfect, both
in chiselling and in dehcacy of
colour. The coffered ceihng is a
masterpiece ; and the \'ista of the
altar, as one stands under the
baldachin, reveals an inde-
scribable glory of blended gold
and colours. The order of the
shrines on the altar is, from r. to
1., that of the 12th, 6th, and lith
Shoguns, the shrine of the last
containing also the funeral tablet
of his consort.

From the Mortuary Temple, a
flight of steps at the back leads iip
to the tombs of these three Shoguns
and of the consort of the Idtli, who
was aunt to the present Mikado,
and after the death of her husband

bore the title of Sei-kwan-in-no-
Miya. Her obsequies, in 1877,
were the last performed within
these precincts. Each tomb has a
small oratory attached. The fine
bronze gate of the enclosure of No.
6, which is the first tomb reached,
is said to be the work of Korean
artificers ; but the design was
probably furnished by a Japanese
draughtsman. The dragons in low
relief on the r. and 1., both inside
and out, are specially worthy of
attention. Next to it is the tomb
of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it
again those of the 14th and his
consort. The tomb of this princess
is of bronze and marked by the
Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled
chrysanthemum.

Quitting the gi'ounds of this
Mortuary Temple by a small side
door to the r., we turn down 1. to
the main road, and enter the
grounds of the Temple of Zojoji by
the Great Gate {Sammon), which
is the oldest (277 years) of all the
buildings, it having escaped the
gi-eat tire of 1874. Notice that
it is lacquered red, not simply
painted. The upper storey, which
is reached by an extremely steep
staircase, contains large images of
the Sixteen Eakan, coloured and
seated in an artificial rockwork.
In the middle is Shaka, finely gUt.
These can generally be seen only
on application to the priests. The
gi-and bell, on the r., was saved
from the fire, and only suspended
again in 1892. On the 1. are the
priests' apartments {Hqjo) and

Index to PijAN of Shtba Temples.

1. Ni-TenMon.

2. Temple of 7th and 9th Shoguns.

3. Tombs of 7th and 9th Shoguns.

4. Temple of 6th, 12th, and 14th

Shoguns.

5. Tombs of 6th, 12th, and 14th

Shoguns.

6. Great Gate (Sammon).

7. Shrine of Five Hundi-ed Kakan.

8. Priests' Apartments.

9. Zojoji.

10. Gokoku-den.

11. Ten-ei-in.

12. Temple of 2nd Shogun.

13. Octagonal HaU {Hakkaloj.-dd).

14. Ankoku-den (Tos/to^rM).

15. Maruyama.

16. Pagoda.

17. Shrine of Benten.

18. Koyo-kwan (Maple Club).

120

Boule 4. — Tokyo.

temple offices {Jimusho). In front
is the main temple of Zojoji,
restored outwardly in the plainest
style, but spacious mthin. The
large gilt image of Amida enthron-
ed on the altar is from the chisel
of the famous Buddhist abbot and
artist Eshin. The temple pos-
sesses many objects of artistic and
historical interest, but they are
only occasionally displayed. Just
outside, on the 1., is a stone with
the imprint of Buddha's feet,
which are of phenomenal size.

The Kttle temjile at the back of
Z6j5ji, in the same biilhant style
of decoration as the Mortuary
Temples, is called Gokoku-den. It
contains the Kuro-Honzon, or Black
Image, — a statuette of Amida by
Eshin, noteworthy on account of
the veneration in which it was
held by leyasu, who used to cany
it about with him in his campaigns,
and ascribed his victories to its
influence. Admittance to the
Gokoku-den is gained through the
priests' house to the 1. The Black
Image, which is not shown save on
great occasions, is enclosed in a
handsome gold reUquary. Another
rehquary contains small marble
images of the Sixteen Rakan.
Notice the curious plate-shaped
ornaments above the pillars in
front of the altar, with the Bud-
dhist gods Shaka, Monju, and
Fugen, and attendant animals in
high relief. The bold j)aintings of
hawks round the waUs recall
leyasu's fondness for hawking.
The fine bronze image of Shaka
outside dates from the year 1763.

Such unprotected statues are called in
Japanese by the rather irreverent name
of "wet saints" (nurc-hotoke). The thin
sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters
■which stand behind it, are sotoba (see
p. 43-4).

Coming down from Gokokunlen,
and leaving the Zdjoji enclosure by
an opening to the r., we next reach
the Mortuary Temple ( Ten-ei-in) at-
tached to the tombs of the consorts
of the '2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th

Shogvms. Admittance is by the
priests' house to the 1. Though
the oratory is plainer than those
already described, the altar is by
no means less splendid. Gilded
gates. gilded panelling, huge
gilded pillars, — everything sparldes
with gold, while the shrines on the
altar are the most magniticent
specimens extant of a peciiliar kind
of lacquer adorned M-ith metal-
work. Their order is, from r. to 1.,
the consorts of the 12th, 6th, 2nd,
and 11th Shoguns, while in the
extreme 1. corner is that of the
concubine of the 5th. The coffered
ceihng, decorated -nith the phoenix
in various colours, is specially
admired.

From this temple, we pass into
the coiu-t of that attached to the
tomb of the 2nd Shogiui, — entrance
though the priests' house to the
r. The sanctum is a grand ex-
ample of Japanese religious ar-
chitectui-e. Two huge gilded pillars
called daijin-hashira, r. and 1. of
the altar, support the lofty vaulted
roof, curiously constructed of a net-
work of beams. The upper part of
the walls is decorated with large
carved medalhons of birds in high
relief, richly painted and gilt. The
shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over
two and a half centuries old, and
the tjibles in front also deserve
inspection. The bronze incense-
burner in the form of a lion dates
from 1635. leyasu's war-drum
rests on a large ornamental stand.
The coffers in the ceilings are filled
with fretwork over lacquer.

A short walk among the lofty
trees behind to the 1. leads up to
the Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall,
containing the tomb of the 2nd
Shogun, which is the largest speci-
men of gold lacquer in the world
and one of the most magnificent.
Parts of it are inlaid A^-ith enamel
and crystals. The scenes on the
upper half represent the "Eight
Views " of Siao-Siang in China and
of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the
lower half is adorned with the lion

Shiha Temples. Forty-seven Ronins.

121

and i^eony, — the Mng of beasts and
the Mng of flowers. The base is of
stone shaped Hke a lotns-flower.
The shrine contains only an efligy
of the Shogun and his fnneral
tablet, the actual body being be-
neath the pavement. The interior
walls of the hall are of lacquer
gilded over. Eight pillars covered
-with gilt copper plates support the
roof.

Outside this building are two
curiously carved stones, dating
fi-om 16i4. The subject of one is
" Shaka's Entry into Nirvana," and
of the other the " Mve-and-Twenty
Bosatsu" coming with Amida to
welcome the departed soul. The
oratory in fi'ont of the Octagonal
Hall contains nothing worthy of
special notice.

Descending again to the Mortua-
ry Temple, and passing through its
two gates, the visitor rejoins the
main road, and turning r., •will
reach, a hundred yards further on,
the large gate stanthng in front of
the temple of Ankoku-den. Here,
on the 17th of every month, a
popular festival is held in honour
of the Shogun leyasu, who is wor-
shipped as a Shinto deity under
the name of Toshogu. Constructed
when Buddhism was dominant,
this temple is architecturally as
highly ornamented as the rest, the
present supremacy of the Shinto
cult being indicated only by the
paper symbols {gohel) in the orato-
ry, which also contains a large
bronze mirror and two gilt arna-
iaa. The sanctum (admittance
through the Shamusho, or temple
office, to the r.) stands behind, in a
separate enclosure. The cotfered
ceiling is very fine, as are the
hawks and birds of paradise on a
gold ground in the panels round
the interior. Particularly excellent
is a painting by Kano Hogen at the
back of the altar, representing
Shaka attended by Monju and
Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft.
high, with an elaborate cornice of
three rows of brackets ; and its

walls are of splendid gold lacquer
with raised designs. In front, on
the door-panels, are eight small
landscapes, with dragons de-
scending through the clouds on
either hand. At the sides are
boldly designed groups of the pine
and bamboo. Inside is a life-like
wooden effigy of leyasu, which can
be seen only on the 17th day of the
month.

A visit to Shiba may be termi-
nated by walking up Mnruyama,
the little hill at the back, which
commands a pretty view of the
bay. Close to the Pagoda, which
is not open to the public, stands a
monument erected in 1890 to the
memory of Ino Chtikei, the father
of Japanese cartography, who floru'-
ished in the ISth century.

The mound of which this monument
stands has recfntly been discovered by
Prof. Tsuboi to be an artilicial tumulus
(tsuha) of the gourd-shape used for Im-
perial interments over a thousand years
ago ; and there are two smaller tumuli
close by. The larger was probably the
burial-jilace of some prince, as a branch
of the reigning family settled in Eastern
Japan in very early times.

Thence one descends to the little
Temple of Benteti, picturesquely
situated on an islet in a lake over-
gTOwn with lotuses. Further back
in the wood stands the Kdyd-ku:an,
or Maple Club, vrhere excellent
dinners and beautiful dances in
native style are given.

Shiba is particularly lovely in
early Ajiril, when the cheiTV-trees
are in blossom.

About 1 m. from the Shiba tem-
ples, in the direction of Shinagawa,
stands the Buddhist temple of
Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven
Ronins {Shi-ju-sldchi Shi) lie
buried.

For their dramatic stoiy, see Things
Japanese. A more minute account is
given in Mitford's Tales of Old Japan.

Just ^vithin the gate is a two-
storied building called Kanranjo,
where swords, armour, and other

122

Route 4, — Tokyo.

relics o£ these heroes are shown
on payment of a small fee. The
well (Kuhi-arai ido), where the
E,6nins washed the head of the
foe on whom they had taken ven-
geance, still exists by the side of
the path leading to the tombs,
which are ranged on the r. side of
a small square court. That in^ the
further corner is the gi'ave of Oishi
Kuranosuke, the leader of the
faithful band ; and the monument
next to his, on the other side of the
stone fence, marks the grave of the
lord for whose sake he and his
comrades sacrificed their lives.
The popular reverence for these
heroes is attested by the incense
perpetually kept burning before
Oishi's gi'ave, and by the visiting
cards constantly left there. Paint-
ed statuettes of the Eonins are
exhibited in a building below.

On the way back, one may obtain
a good ^iew of the city by going
up Aiarjo-yamu, a small hill a short
w^ay to the K. of Shiba Park, named
after the higher Mount Atago at
Kyoto.

Aiaijo i.s proiierly the uaine of ;t di-
vinity ; see p. 15.

Atago-yama, like many other
such places in Japan, has two
flights of stejjs leading up, it, one
of which, called '-the men's stair-
case" (otoko-zaka), is straight and
s eep, while the other, or " women's
sUdrcase" (onna-zaka), is circuitous
but less fatiguing. A tower has
been erected on Atago-yama, which
visitors pay a trifling fee to ascend.
The viewjncludes Fuji, the Hakone
range, Oyama, Mitake, Mount
Tsukuba, and the pro^inces beyond
T5ky5 Bay with Kano-zan and No-
kogiri-yama.

'2.' .4KASAKA .\XD AzABU.

Akasaka and Azabu are the
highest and healthiest parts of
Tokyo, but contain very httle to
interest the tourist. In a jjart of
Akasaka called Aoyima, is situated

the palace occupied for many years
by the Mikado while his present
palace was building, and now by
the Crown Prince. It is not open
to the public ; but the elite of
Tokyo society is invited there once
yearly to a garden party in Novem-
Iber, given on the occasion of what
is perhajjs the most wonderful chry-
santhemum show in the world.
Closel}' adjoining it, is an immense
Parade Ground (liempei-bu), where
the annual review on the Mikado's
birthday (3rd November) is held.
A little further to the S. lies the
Aoyama Cemetery, part of which has
been reserved for the interment of
foreigners.

Zempukujl, a temple of the Monto
sect, dates from A.D. 1'23'2, and is
somewhat striking. The temple
relics are exhibited from the 1st to
6th November. In the courtyard
stands an enormous iclH) tree,
known as the " Staff Icho."

Local tradition says tliat when Hhinraii
Shonin. the founder of the Moiito .sect,
was about to depart for Kyoto, and bade
adieu to Ryokai, the apostle of the sect
in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff upside
down in the ground, saying, "Like this
staff shall be the strength of the faith and
the salvation of the lieople," — whereupon
the staff immediately begiiii to take root
and sprout uii wards.

To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb
of Shibuya, stands the lied Cross
Hospital {Seki-j nji-slm Byohi), a
large and admiraljly organised in-
stitution.

3, — Chief Builuino.s ix Koji-
MACHi. The Diet. Sanno.
Shokonsha.

Leaving Hhimbashi station and
turning 1. along the moat, the
wooden buildings of the Imperial
Diet will be seen beyond the em-
bankment on the other side. The
large brick buildings soon passed r.
were completed in 1877 for the
College of Engineering, the earliest
scientific academy established in
Japan, and jiresided over by English
professors. Since the amalgama-

Sanyi.o. Shokonsha: Yushu-kwav.

123

tioa of this College with the Impe-
rial University in 1886, the build-
ings have been nsed for various
other purposes.

Turning along the moat r., we
come to a stretch of flat gi"Ound,
which was till recently a swamp
called Tame-ike. On the hill to the
r. is the mansion of Marquis
Nabeshima, formerly Daimyo of
Hizen and now Grand Master of
Ceremonies at the Imperial Comt.
In front is the prettily wooded emi-
nence on which stands the Shinto
Temple of Sauno, ofticially styled
Hie Jinja. Dating in its jDresent
form from 1654, it was adopted by
the Shoguns of the Tokugawa
dynasty as their tutelary shrine.
.All the buildings, except the main
temple, are falling into decay.
Each of the inner compartments of
the large gate contains a seated
image of a monkey ornamented
with a bib, that animal being re-
garded as the servant of the divinity
of Hie, for which reason monkeys
also figure on the altar.

This neighbourhood, of which
the chief part is called Naijaia-cho,
is one of the most fashionable in
Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of
Princes Kita-8hirakawa and Arisu-
gawa, and the residences of man)""
high officials and foreign dij^lomats.
Hence, in local parlance, it is some-
times nicknamed Daimyo Koji, or
the Daimyo Quarter. Below
Prince Kita-Shirakawa's Palace lies
the Kioi-cho Koenchi, a garden
planted with azaleas and contain-
ing a luige monolith commemora-
tive of ( )kubo Toshimichi, one of
the founders of the new order of
things in Jajjan, who was assassin-
ated near this spot on the l-lth
May, 1878. On the flat top of the
Kudan hill, a short way beyond the
British Legation, stands the Hhinto
temple of Yasukuni, better known
as the

Shokouslia, or Spirit-Invoking
Shrine.

This temple was erected in 18C9 for the
worship of the aijirits of those who had

fallen iightiug for the Mikado's cause in
the revolutionary war of the previous
year. Services are also held in honour of
those who fell in the Saga troubles of
1873, the Satsuma rebellion of 1877, and
the China war of 1894;-.5.

The Shokonsha is built in accord-
ance with the severest canons of
pure Shinto architecture, and is
comjpletely empty except for a
mirror, a European drugget, and a
dozen cheap wooden chairs for the
use of the officials who come to
assist at the memoiial services
which are held from time to time,
the principal ones being on the 6-
8th May and 6-8th November.
These occasions are enlivened by
horse-races, wrestling, and other
popular amusements. The enor-
mous bronze forii was manufactur-
ed in the Osaka arsenal, and set up
in December, 1887.

The grounds behind the temple
have been tastefully laid out, and
look their best in early spring when
the plum-trees are in blossom.

The brick building to the r. of
the temple is the Yiishu-kican, a
Museum of Arms, which is open
on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Sat-
urdays, from 8 A.M. till 5 p.m. in
Slimmer, and from 9 to 3 in winter.
It well deserves a ^isit, for the sake
of the magnificent specimens of old
Japanese swords and scabbards
which it contains, as well as ar-
mour, old Korean bronze cannon,
trophies of the China war of 1894-5,
etc. The numerous jjortraits of
modern military men are depressing
specimens of the painter's art. The
granite lanterns lining the avenue
which runs down the centre of the
race-coiu'se, were presented by the
nobility in 1878. The large bronze
statue of Omma Hyobu Tayu,
a distinguished patriot in the war
that restored the Mikado to jiower,
was erected in 1892, and is remark-
able as the first Japanese example
of this method of commemorating
departed worth.

Leading the grounds of the Sho-
konsha, we come to an ancient

124

Route 4. — Tokyo.

stone beacon, which formerly light-
ed junks on their way up Yedo
Bay. Opposite to it, stands a
monument in the shape of a bayo-
net, erected in 1880 by the soldiers
of the Imperial Guard, in memory
of their comrades who had fallen
fighting on the loyalist side in the
Satsuma rebellion. This point
overlooks the city in the direction
of Ueno. The prominent edifice on
the bluff opposite {Suriuja-dai) is
the Eusslan Cathedral, consecrated
in 1891. To the citizens of Tokyd
it is familiarly known as yikora't,
from Bishop Nicolai, who built it.
At the foot of Kudan-zaka stands
the Temple of Ontake, where the
curious ceremonies of " Ordeal by
Boiling Water " and " Walking over
Fire " are held on the 8-9th April
and 16-17th September. For de-
tails, see Percival Lowell's " Occult
Japan."

4. — KojEviACHi (continued). The
Inner Moat. The Impeeial
Palace. Insatst; Kyoktj.

Another and more direct way
from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha
at Kudan, is by crossing the first
bridge (Snkcai-hashi) over the moat,
passing the Tokyo Club on the 1.,
and going straight on as far as the
Houses of the Diet, at the further
end of the open space known as
Hibiya, now lined on its W. side
with extensive public buildings,
viz. (counting from 1. to i*.) the
Naval Department, the Judicial
Department, and the Courts of
Justice. Here the road turns r.,
with the Russian Legation and the
Foreign Office on the 1. Skirting the
moat, the large building seen in
front is the Head-Quarters of the
General Staff Department.

Near here, on the 21th March, 1860, li
KamoQ-no-Kanii, Regent during the in-
terval preceding the election of ;i new
Shcigun, and a man of rare sagacity and
favourable to foreign intercourse, was
assassinated in broad daylight by emis-
saries of the Prince of Mito, who was
desirous of seating his own son on the

throne. To elucidate this incident, it
should be mentioned that there were three
branches of the Tokugawa family, viz.
Kishu, Mito. and Owari. from whom the
Shoguns were elected by a family council,
and that the election had fallen upon a
young prince of Kishii, thus baiUking
Mito's plans.

The moat here, "ndth its green
banks and spreading trees, and in
winter the numerous wild-fowl
fluttering in the water, is one of
the prettiest bits of Tokyo. The
vast enclosure of the Imperial
Palace lies beyond the moat.

The Imperial Palace. The
new Palace, inhabited by His Ma-
jesty the Mikado since 1.SS9, is not
accessible to the jjublic, only those
who are honoured with an Imperial
Audience being admitted within its
walls. Nevertheless the following
description, abridged from the
Japan Mall, may be of interest : —
Entering through long coiTidors
isolated by massive iron doors, we
find ourselves in the smaller of two
reception rooms, and at the com-
mencement of what seems an
endless vista of crystal chambers.
This effect is due to the fact that the
shojl, or sliding doors, are of jslate-
glass. The workmanship and de-
coration of these chambers are truly
exquisite. It need scarcely be said
that the woods employed are of the
choicest description, and that the
carpenters and joiners have done
their part with such sldll as only
Japanese artisans seem to possess.
Every ceiling is a Mork of art,
being divided by lactiuer ribs of a
deep brown colour into numerous
panels, each of which contains a
beautifully executed decorative de-
sign, painted, embroidered, or em-
bossed. The walls are covered in
most cases with rich but chaste
brocades, except in the corridors,
where a thick, embossed paper of
charming tint and pattern shows
what skill has been developed in
this class of manufacture at the
Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid
this luxury of well-assorted but
warm tints, remain the massive

Impe.ri'd Palace. Insafsu Kyoku.

121

square posts, — beautiful enough in
themselves, but scarcely harmo-
nising with their environment, and
introducing an incongruous ele-
ment into the building. The true
type of what may be called Imperial
esthetic decoration was essentially
marked by refined sunplicity, —
white wooden joinery, with pale
neutral tints and mellow gilding.
The splendour of richly painted
ceihngs, lacquered lattice-work, and
brocaded walls was reserved for
Buddhist temples and mausolea.
Thus we have the Shinto, or triie
Imj)erial style, presenting itself in
the severely colourless pillars, while
the resources of Budilhist architec-
ture have been di-awn upon for the
rest of the decoration. In one part
of the building the severest canons
have been strictly followed : the six
Imperial Stiidies, three below stairs
and three above, are precisely such
chaste and pure apartments as a
scholar would choose for the abode
of learning, lij way of an example
in the other direction, we may take
the Banqueting Hall, — a room of
magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and
noble proj)ortions, its immense ex-
panse of ceiling glowing Avith gold
and colours, and its broad walls
hung with the costliest silks. The
Throne Chamber is scarcely less
striking, though of smaller dimen-
sions and more subdued decoration.
Every detail of the work shows in-
finite painstaking, and is redolent
of artistic instinct. A magnificent
piece of tapestry hangs in one of
the reception rooms. It is 40 ft.
by 13 ft., woven in one piece by
Kawashima of Kyoto. The weav-
ing is of the kind known as
tsuzuri-nri, so called because each
part of the design is separated from
the body of the stuff by a border
of pin-points, so that the whole
pattern seems suspended in the
material. The subject represented
is an Imperial procession in feudal
Japan, and the designer has suc-
ceeded in grouping an immense
number of figm-es with admirable

taste and skill. The colours are
rich and harmonious, and the
whole forms probably one of the
finest pieces of tajjestry in existence.
The furniture of the palace was
imported from Germany. Exter-
nally the principal buildings are
all in pure Jaxianese style. The ap-
propriation for the Palace was
$3,000,000 ; but to this amount
must be added considerable sums
voluntarily offered by wealthy
Japanese, as well as A'aluable con-
tributions of materials.

The unpretentious brick and
plaster structure to be seen from
the E. side, rising above the moat
in the palace enclosure, contains
the offices of the Imperial lloiise-
hold Department. — -On leaving the
wide open space in front of the
palace and crossing the moat, one
comes to another wide extent of
gi'ound called Maru-no-uchi, former-
ly occupied by Daimyds' mansions,
and now gi-adually being covered
with the offices of various public
companies.

Not far off, in an E. dii-ection,
is the Insatsu Kyoku, or Govern-
ment Printing Office, a vast and
well-organised establishment, to
the inspection of which a day may
be profitably devoted, as its scope
is very wide, including much be-
sides mere printing. Here, among
other things, is manufactured the
paper cunency of the country.
The IVIinistiies of Finance, of Edu-
cation, and of the Interior, together
with various other Government
offices, are in the same neighbour-
hood.

&. — GlNZA. SuiTENGfT. NlHOM-

BASHI. CUKIO StKEET. SkIDO.

Kanda Myojin. Impekial Uni-

VEESITT. DaNGO-ZAKA. O-GWAN-

NON. Botanical Gakden. Koi-
SHIKAWA Arsenal .4Nd Gabden.

GOKOKXJJI.

The most important thorough-
fare in Tdkyo, which none should
fail to see. leads from the Shimbashi

126

Route 4. — Toki/o.

terminus to Megane-bashi and
Ueno. The portion of it which is
nearest to the station is called the
Ginza, and has a number of shops
in Eurojjean style. Proceeding
along it. the traveller crosses the
Kyobashi and Xihoin-bashi bridges,
from the latter of which all dis-
tances in Eastern Japan are cal-
culated. The General Post-Office
stands close by. Parallel to the
portion of the main thoroughfare be-
tween these bridges is Xaka-clori, a
street highly attractive on account
of its second-hand cuiio shops, and
hence commonly known as Ciuio
Street among the foreign residents.
2^ihorn-bashi has also given its name
to the surrounding large and btisy
district, which is filled Mith shops,
market-places, and godowns. The
great Ush-m'i rlcet is a notable sight
in the early hours of the morning.

Another sight (chiefly on the 5th
day of the month, but also on the
1st and 15th) is afforded by the
concourse of worshippers at the
Temple of SvUeiyju. in Kakigara-
cho.

Notice the brass cylinders hung to
ruetal pillars iu the grounds, and used by
the inqui.^itive for reading their own for-
tunes [mi kuji]. These cylinders contain
brass slips with j-uch inscriptions in Chi-
reae characters as "very lucky,'' "half
lucky," "unlucky," etc." For the deity
here worshipped, see p. o6.

Megane-hasJd, or " Spectacles
Bridge," is so called from its circu-
lar arches. The portion of the canal
to the 1. is popularly known as
" Sendai's Weeping Excavation "
(Naki-bori).

Local history s^ays that Tsuuaiuune.
Daimyo of Sendai, was in the habit of
squandering large sums at the Yoshi-
wara, and that the Shogun, in order to
turn him from his rakish ways, and also
to put such extravagance out of his
power, imposed on him the task of deep-
ening and widening this part of the moat,
— a work wiiich he is said to have per-
formed with much lamentation over the
drain on his purse.

A little way on is the former
Seido, the '• Sage's HaU", or Tem-

ple of Confucius, no^ used as an
Educational Museum. It is plea-
santly situated on rising ground in'
the midst of a gi'ove of trees, among
which the fragrant mok^i.sei is most
conspicuous. The buildings, which
date from 1091, are fine specimens
of the Chinese style of architecture.
The main hall facing the entrance
is supported on black lacquered
pillai-s, the ceiling also is of black
lacquer, while the floor is of finely
chiselled square blocks of, stone.
Opposite the door is a wooden
image of Confucius, possessing
considerable merit as a work of art.
The museum, which contains speci-
mens of school and kindergarten
furniture, books, maps, etc., is
open daily to visitors.

Just above, in the same gi-ounds.
stand the two sections of the Higher
Normal School, that in brick being
for young men, the other for girls.

Behind the Seido. is the Eyobu
Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin,
dedicated to the god Unamiiji and
to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of
the 10th century.

Aft«r the final overthrow of Masakado.
his ghost u.sed to haunt the neighbour-
hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo-
theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen-
tury. The temple, for which a hoary
antiquity is claimed, but which was only
established on its present site in 1C16, has
been frequently burnt down and rebuilt
since that time.

The temple, originally decorated
'with paintings by artists of the
Kano school, has now grown some-
what dingy, but is still popular 'with
the multitude. The chief festival,
celebrated on the 1.5th September,
is well worth seeing.

Entering the main sti-eet of the
district of Kanda, one of the chief
arteries of the northern portion of
the metropolis, we come r. to the
Imperial University ( TelkoJcu
Da'ujakv.), a set of handsome brick
buildings standing in the gi'ounds
of the former Kaga Yashiki, or
mansion of the great Daimyo of
Kaga.

UniversUy. Dango-zaka. Arsenal.

127

The germ of this institution was the
Hansho Shirahe-jo, or "Place for the Ex-
amination of Barbarian "Writings." found-
ed by the Tokugawa Government in 185G.
Seven years later, this name was altered
to that oi Kaisei-jo, or "Place for Develop-
ing and Completinpf," which indicated a
change for the better in the views held
by the Japanese aB to the value of Euro-
pean learning. Numerous other modjlica-
tions have taken place both in the name
and scope of the institution, which since
1881 has been placed on a thoroughly
modern footing, and now includes colleges
of Law.Medicine, Engineering, Literature,
Science, and Agriculture, where lectures
are delivered by a large staff of professors
o£ various nationalities and in various
languages. The students number over
2,700. The courses that attract most
students are those of Law, Medicine, and
Engineering. A large hospital connected
with the University stands in the same
grounds. Other institutions under the
authority of the President of the Uni-
versity are the Botanical Gardens in the
district of Koishikawa, and the Tokyo
Observatory at lignra.

_ Further on, in the direction of
Oji, are the tlorists' gardens of
Dango-zaka, whither the towns-
folk resort in thousands to see the
chrysanthemum shows in Novem-
ber. The flowers are trained over
trellis-work to represent historical
and mythological scenes, ships,
dragons, and other cmioits objects.

The O-Gicannon, or Great Kwan-
non, may be w^orth a passing
^dsit. The gilt image, which is
16 ft. high, was an offering made in
the 17th century by a merchant of
Yedo, and represents the goddess
bending slightly forward, and hold-
ing in her hand the lotns, the em-
blem of purity. Round the walls
of the shrine containing the image,
are ranged in tiers the Sen-tal
Kicannon, or images of the Thou-
sand Incarnations of Kwannon.

The Koisliikawa Botanical
Garden (Shoku-butsu-en) is open to
the public, and duplicate specimens
of the plants are for sale at the
office.

The small temple of Muryo-ln, in
the same district, is connected with
tie history of the early Catholic
missionaries to Japan, . some of
whom lie buried in the cemetery.

Hence the name of Kirlshitau-zaka,
or Christian Hill, by which the
locality is poj^ularly known. The
grave of the earliest of these mis-
sionaries. Father Giuseppe Chiara,
who died in 1G85, may be dis-
tinguished by a priest's hat carved
in the stone.

Readers desirous of further details are
referred to the writings of Sir Ernest
Satow and Professor J. M. Dixon, in Vol.
V). Part L and Vol. XVI, Part III, of the
TramscicHons <;/' the Asiatic Society of
Japan.

The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hd-
hei Kosho) occupies the site of the
former mansion of the Prince of
Mito. Here are manufactured the
rifles called tiayi-ju-nen Shiki, or
" 1898 pattern," adopted by the
Japanese Army in lieu of the well-
known Murata rifle. An order
from the military authorities is
necessary to gain admittance. An
order is also necessary for the
Garden [Koraku-en], which still re-
mains intact, and is the finest
specimen of the Japanese land-
scape gardener's art to be seen
in the capital. The object of its
designer was to reproduce in minia-
ture many of the scenes whose
names are classic among the lite-
rati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni,
generally known as jVIito Komon,
laid oiit the grounds as a place in
which to enjoy a calm old age after
a life of labour. If the visitor has
first inspected the Arsenal, he will
then be conducted to a summer-
house in the garden, Avith an
extensive grass-plot attached, and
overlooking a lake copied from a
noted one in China, called Sei-ko.
A small wooded hill rises beyond,
which we ascend, and on which
stands a miniature replica of the
famous temple of Kiyomizu at
Kyoto, enriched with carvings, but
worn by time. Descending, we are
plimged for a minute in the
depths of a wood before reaching an
old bridge A^dth a rivulet running
far below. Crossing the bridge and
following up a zigzag path, we come

128

Route 4. — Tokyo.

to the shrine of Haku-i and Shikii-
sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese
lore, who, after the overthrow of
their lord and master, refused to eat
the grain produced under the con-
queror's sway, and, secluding them-
selves on Mount Shuyo, lived on
ferns till, being told that ferns grew
also on their enemy's lands, they
abstained even from that poor
food, and so died of starvation.
An arched stone bridge and
another shiine, shaped octagonally
in allusion to the Eight Diagi'ams
of the Chinese system of divina-
tion, are next passed. From here,
a tunnel-like opening leads through
a thicket of creepers and other
trees to a lake several acres in
extent and full of lotuses. The
water, which comes fi'om the Tama-
gawa aqueduct, is made to form
a pretty cascade before falling
into the lake. An island in the
centre is connected with the main-
land by a bridge. Everywhere
there are magnilicent trees, —
cherry-trees for the spring, maples
for the autumn, plum-trees for the
winter, making a change of scene
at each season. Near the exit, is a
hill with a path paveil in such
manner as to imitate the road OA'er
the Hakone Pass.

On the extreme N.W. outskirts of
the city stands the Buddhist tem-
ple of Gokokuji, now used as the
head-quarters of the Bhingon sect,
which has a seminary for young
priests. With its extensive grounds,
its sUent beKry, and the perfect
stillness of its surroundings, it
recalls the memory of days now
irreti-ievably past, when Buddhism
was a mighty power in the land.
The azaleas here are noted for their
beauty. The chief treasure of the
temple is a gigantic kakemono of
Buddha's Entry into Nirvana, by
Kano Yasunobu, which is shown
only during the month of April.

Adjoining Gokokuji is the new Ce-
metery of the Imperial family, select-
ed since the removal of the Court to
Tdkyo. It is not open to the public.

6. — Ueno Pake, Temples, and
Museum. Asakusa. Higashi
HoNGWANJi. Temple of Kwan-

NOX. MUKOJIMA. HOEIKIRI.

Ueno Park, famed for its

Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns,
is the most popidar resort in the
metropolis. Here, in April, all
Tokyo assembles to admire the
wonderful mass of cherry-blossom
for which it is famous. No traveller
should miss this opportunity of
■witnessing a scene charming alike
for natural beauty and pictiuesque
Eastern life.

The importance of Ueno, whk-h lies due
X. E. of the palace, had its origin in a
wide-spread superatition, which regards
that quarter as the most unlucky of all the
points of the compass, and brands it with
the name of Ki-mon, or the Demon's Gate
When, therefore, some progress had been
made in the construction of the city of
Yedo, the Shogun lemitsu, in the year 1625,
determined to erect here a set of Bud-
dhist temples, which, eclipsing all others
in splendour, should ward off the ap-
proach of such evil Influences. The origi-
nal main temple {Kwan-eiji) then founded
occupied the site of the present Museum,
but was burnt down in 1868 on the
occasion of a fierce battle fought between
the partisans of the Mikado and those of
the Shogun. The other gate still exists,
showing the marks of bullets. This
temple was counted among the triumphs
of Japanese architecture. Here always
resided as high-priest a son of the reign-
ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery
for political reasons, as it was convenient
for the Shoguns to have in their power
a prince who could at once be decorated
with the Imperial title, should the Court
of Kyoto at any time prove refractory.
The last high-priest of Ueno was actual-
ly utilised in this manner by the
Shogun's partisans, and carried off by
them to Aizu in 1868, when they raised
the standard of rebellion.

Leaving his jiniilcisha at the
bottom of the hiU, the traveller
ascends r. a short flight of steps,
leading to a plateau planted with
cheiiy-trees and commanding a
good view of the city, especially
towards Asakusa, including the
twelve-storied tower which is seen
rising beyond the Ueno railway
station, and the high roof of the
great Hongwanji temple. The

Ueiio Park and Museum.

129

statue of »Saigo Takamori (see p.
82) was erected in 1899. The stone
monument close by is dedicated
to the soldiers who fell fighting for
the Shogun's cause in the battle of
Ueno. To the 1., is a dingy Bud-
dhist temple dedicated to the
Thousand-handed Kwannon.

Descending again to the main
road, we reach the celebrated
avenue of cherry-trees, a uniqiiely
beautiful sight during the brief
season of blossom, when the air
seems to be filled ^vith pink clouds.
To the 1., is a shallow piece of water,
called Shinobazu no Ike, celebrated
for its lotus-flowers in August.
On a little peninsula jutting out
into the lake, is a shrine sacred
to the goddess Benten. This for-
merly romantic spot fell a victim
to vandalism, when the shores of
the lake were tiirned into a race-
course, itself now also done away
with. A little further up, is
the Seiyoken Eesicmravt, which
commands a good view. The ex-
tensive buildings seen iu the dis-
tance, on a height, are the Imperial
University and the First Higher
School. Close to the restaurant is
a bronze image of Buddha, 21i ft.
high, known as the Daihutsu. This
inferior specimen of the bronze-
worker's art dates from about the
year 1660. Following along the
main road for a few yards, we come
1. to a bullet-riddled gate, preserved
as a relic of the battle of Ueno.
An immense stone lantern just in-
side it is one of the three largest
in Japan, and dates from early in
the 17th century. Further along
the avenue of stately cryptomerias
stand an ancient pagoda and a
glorious gold gate at the end of a
long row of stone lanterns, pre-
sented in 1651 by various Daimyos
as a tribute to the memory of the
Shogun leyasu. To this Shogiin,
under his posthumous name of
Toshogu or Gongen Sama, the
shrine within is dedicated. The
gate itself, restored in 1890, is
a dream of beauty. Carvings of

dragons adorn it on either side ;
above are geometrical figm-es, birds,
foliage, and everywhere the Toku-
gawa crest of three asarum leaves.
It is intended to restore in the
same style the temple whose gold
has been sadly worn away. The
details resemble those oi the Mor-
tuary Shrines at Shiba. The temple
contains some fine specimens of
lacquer. Kound the walls hang
pictures of the Sanju-rok-ka-sen,
(see p. 8'2), below wluch are screens
with conventional lions.

Keturning to the main road the
way we came, and passing by the
former buildings of the last Na-
tional Industrial Exhibition, now
used for an industrial bazaar, we
reach the

Ueno Museum [Ueno Uaku-
hutsu-kican). This institution,

which is open from 8 to 5 in sum-
mer, and from 9 to 4 in winter,
Mondays and the three weeks fi'om
the 16th December to the 4th Jan-
uary excepted, vi'ell merits a visit.
The contents are in the main ar-
ranged as follows, though frequent-
ly altered as to details :

Entrance. Giant drum for the
sacred Bungaku dances, palan-
quins, and stuffed animals.

Ground Floor. E. of Entrance.
Natural History Department : —
observe the cocks from Tosa, with
tail feathers 12.J ft. long. The front
rooms contain the Zoological Sec-
tion ; the back rooms, the Mineral-
ogical Section. A wing lying bej'ond
the room chiefly devoted to osteo-
logical and conchological spe-
cimens, is the Dej>artment of In-
dustry, containing glass and por-
celain (both foreign and Japanese),
stuffs, drawings, etc., beyond which
are a couple of rooms devoted to
modern pictures in both Japanese
and European style.

An annexe at the back of the
main building contains the surplus
of the Mineral ogical Section. The
landscape garden in Japanese style,
which has been laid out behind it,
need scarcely detain the traveller.

130

Route 4. — Tokyo.

Groiuvd Floor. L. ot Entrance.
Front rooms. Historical or Archre-
logical Department, inchicling

EooM I.

Ancient manuscripts and print-
ed books, old maps, painted scrolls,
and rubbings.

Room II.

Department of History. — This
room is chiefly devoted to ancient
objects from Horytiji, such as tem-
ple furniture, seals, golden tokko.
etc. There are also manuscripts,
which rank among the earliest spe-
cimens of Japanese calligrajDhy.
They are all in the Chinese lan-
guage. The principal other exhibits
are facsimile fi of ancient objects of
daily use at the Imperial Court
preserved at the 8h6so-in, a cele-
brated storehouse attached to the
temple of Todaiji at Nara, and im-
plements used in tho Shinto reli-
gious CTllt.

Two cases in this room have a
special interest, as they are tilled
with Christian relics.

Many of these date from the embassy
to Kome of Hasekura Rokuemon, who was
sent thither by Date Masamune, Daiinyo
of Sendai, in 161i, with a train of follow-
ers, and returned to Jajiau in 1020. The
official Japanese account of this curious
episode is that the embassy went at the
Shoguns desire, in order to investigate
the political strength and resources of
Europe. The version usually accepted by
Euroi^ean writers is that the expedition
really was what it avowed itself to be, —
an act of submission to the religious
supremacy of the Pope. The envoy was
well received at the Roman Court, and
was presented with the freedom of the
city of Kome, besides being loaded with
presents. The relics remained in the
possession of the Date family at Sendai
until a few years ago.

Among the objects in these cases,
are an oil-painting of Hasekura
in prayer before a crucifix, an il-
luminated Latin document confer-
ring on him the freedom of the
city of Rome, holy pictures,
rosaries, crucifixes, a smaU Japa-
nese book of Catholic devotion in

Hirafjana characters, photographs
of Date Masamune's letters to the
Pope in Japanese and Latin, a
portrait of Hasekura in Italian
costume, etc. To a set of circum-
stances very different in their
nature, though not far removed
in time, belong the fumi-ita, or
" trampling boards," — oblong
blocks of metal with figures in high
relief of Christ before Pilate, the
Descent from the Cross, the Virgin
and Child, etc., on which persons
suspected of the crime of Christian-
ity were obliged to trample dur-
ing times of persecution, in order
to testify their abjxu-ation of the
" Depraved Sect," as it was called.
The Dutch traders at Nagasaki are
suspected of having lent them-
selves to this infamous practice for
the sake of pecuniary gain. One
of the old kosatsu, or public notice
boards prohibiting Christianity, is
also here exhibited.

Room III. (End Room.)

Stone arrow-heads, spear-heads,
and pottery of the prehistoric
period ; proto-historic copper bells
and miiTors, iron swords, armour,
horse-trappings, shoes, and cooking
utensils. Besides the above, notice
also the pottery anciently used for
the presentation of offerings to the
Shintd gods. Some pieces fi'om
the provinces on the N.E. shore of
the Inland Sea are remarkably
ornamented with human figures in
high relief. Particvdarly curious
are the earthenware images of men
and horses used in proto-historic
times for interment in the graves
of illustrious personages, after the
custom of burying their chief
retainers alive with them had been
discontinued, the figures of birds —
apparently geese — which were used
as a fence round the tumulus of
the Emperor Ojin in the province
of Kawachi, and fragments of
earthenware posts put to a similar
purpose.

The adjoining room at the back

Ueno Museum.

131

has more prehistoric stone imple-
ments and pottery, swords, etc.
The most characteristically Japa-
nese specimens are the maga-tnma
and kuda-tama in jasper, agate, etc.

The maga-tama, or "curved jewels, "
■which somewhat resemble a tadpole in
shape, were anciently (say, prior to the
7th century) strung together and used as
necklaces and ornaments for the waist
both by men and women, as were also
the kuda-tama, or "tube-shaped jewels."
Their use survived in the Luchu Islands
till a much more recent date.

The second back room is devoted
to objects illnstrating the manners
and customs of the Chinese, Kore-
ans, Australian aborigines, natives
of India,- American Indians, and
Siberian tribes. The third back
room is given up to Japan's semi-
foreign dependencies, — Formosa,
Yezo, and Luchu.

The collection here to be seen of
weapons, ornaments, and wearing apparel
of the head-hunting tribes and other
aborigines of Formosa is lent by Mr.
Montague Kirkwood, who made a
prolonged official tour through almost
every part of Formosa and the outlying
islands in 1897-8 as adviser to the Japa-
nese Government.

(Tpper Floor La>itliii<i. — Ancient
Imperial state bullock cart and
palanquins ; model of the Tendd
Mnrn, or Ship of Heaven and
Earth, which was the state barge
used by the Shdguns.

The stift" flowers and geometrical pat-
terns of the Imperial bullock cart exem-
plify a feature often noticed in early
Japanese ornamentation, when art was
still in Chinese leading-strings, and had
not yet gained the freedom, together
witli the happy use of irregularity, charac-
terisfii- of later days.

<-'eidrfd lioo'in, adjoining the
landing. — Imperial robes, and other
articles used by the Mikado under
the old regime, including the thi-one
hung with silk curtains, which
served to shroud Majesty from the
gaze of ordinary mortals, who — so
it Avas believed— would be struck
blind if they looked ujjon the
'• Dragon Face."

Turning to the 1. (over the
Natural History Department), we
come to the Fine Arts Department.
Room 1 contains old kakemonos,
makimonos, and screens ; Room 2,
ancient masks and images, chiefly
bronze ; Room 3, more images and
temple plans. The back rooms on
this side, comprising the Art In-
dustry Dej^artment — lacquer, por-
celain, bronze, etc. display a large
collection of articles of rare beauty.

Upper Stoeey. R. of Enteance.

Room I.

Ancient kakemonos and maki-
monos.

Room II.

Another Department of History,
containing a collection of ancient
robes, foot-gear, and belts.

Room HI. (End Room.)

Musical instruments, utensUs for
the tea ceremonies, and specimens
of games.

The adjoining room at the back
contains ancient standard weights
and measures, and imitation speci-
mens of ancient gold and silver
coins. The second back room
contains armour, swords, bows
and aiTows, horse-traj^pings, war-
fans, and other martial gear. The
third back room has old boxes,
images, manuscripts, and other
objects, the most interesting to the
antiquarian being the specimens
of the miniatiu-e pagodas (Ilachi-
nuDi-to), of which, in A.D. 704:, the
reigning Mikado caused a million
to be made for distribution through-
out the land.

On quitting the Museum, an
avenue r. leads to the Art School
{Bijutsu Gakko), not accessible
without a special introduction. In
the same grounds are a Public
Library and Reading Room {Tosho-
kv-aii), the largest in the emigre,

132

Route 4. — Tokyo.

tliongh of qnite modest dimensions,
and a learned Academy called the
(rakushi Ewai-in. Close by are the
Zoological Gardens (Ddbutsii-en).

Before reaching the Tosho-kwan,
an avenue turns off r. to the

Tombs of tlie Shoguns (Go
Beiya), abutting on the second and
finer of the two Mortuary Temples
(Ni no Go Beiya). The main gate
is always kept closed, but a side en-
trance 1. leads to the priests'
house. The resident custodian will
act as guide for a small fee.

The six Shoguns buried at TJeno belong-
ed to the Toliugawa family, being the 4th,
5th, 8th, 10th 11th, and Vith of their line.
It is still at the private expense of the
family that these shrines are kept up. In
general style, they closely resemble those
at Shiba, described on pj). 116 — 121, and
are among the priceless legacies of the art
of Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines,
too, they have suffered at the hands of
thieves since the Kevolution of 1868.

This glorious building, a sym-
phony in gold and blended colom-s,
has a wooden colonnade in front,
the red walls of which are divided
into compartments, each contain-
ing a medallion in the centre, filled
vdih. painted open-work carvings
of birds and flowers, with arabes-
ques derived from the chrysan-
themum above and a carved wave-
design below. In the centre of this
colonnade is a gate decorated with
a painting of an angel. From here,
an open colonnade leads up to the
steps of the main building. The
porch has brackets carved -\\-ith
conventional chrysanthemums. Its
square columns are adorned -^ith
plum-blossoms in red and gold.
Under the beams are red and gold
lions' heads as brackets. The
doors of the oratory are carved in
diapers, and gilded all over. Note
the tastefully painted diapers on
the architrave. The ceiling is
massive and loaded with metal
fastenings. In the coffers are
di-agons in gold on a blue ground.
The interior waUs are gilded, hav-
ing in some places conventional
paintings of lions, in others mova-

ble shutters. This apartment is 48
ft. wide by 21 ft. in depth. The
corridor which succeeds it is 12 ft.
wdde by 24 ft. in depth, and leads
to the black lacquered steps of the
inner sanctum. Its ceiling is
decorated with the phcenix on a
green and gold ground. Handsome
gilt doors covered with carved
arabesques close the entrance to
the sanctum, which measures 21
ft. in depth by 33 ft. in width.
The ceiling is decorated with fine
gilt lattice-work in the coffers. The
small shrines, containing the
memorial tablets of the illustrious
dead, are gorgeous specimens of
gold lacquer. Beginning at the r.,
these shrines are respectively those
of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns,
and of Kokyo-In, son of the 10th
Shogun. R. and 1. are two shrines
containing tablets of eight mothers
of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all
were concubines not legitimate
consorts. The actual graves are in
the gi'ounds behind. The finest, a
bronze one, is that of the 5th Sho-
gun. Its bronze gate has magnifi-
cent panels, with the phoenix and
unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean
castings from Japanese designs
about 150 years old.

The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi
no Go Beiya) is close to the Second.
On leaving the Second, turn to the
1. to reach the priests' house, where
apphcation for admission must be
made. Here are buried the 4th,
10th, and 11th Shoguns, together
with several princesses. The monu-
ment of the 4th is in bronze, the
others in simple stone. Over the
grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a
weeping cherry-tree, placed there
to commemorate tlie love of flowers
which distinguished that amiable
prince, whose reign (A.D. 1787-1838)
formed the culminating iDoint of
the splendour of Old Japan.

Returning towards the entrance
of the park, we reach the Buddhist
temple popularly known as Byd
Daishi, properly Jiijen-do, dedicated
to the two great abbots, Jie Daishi

Higashi Hongwanji. Asakusa Kwannon.

133

and Jigen DaisM, the former of
whom flourished in the 9th
century, the latter in the 16th and
17th. The portrait of Jie Daishi
here preserved is considered one
of the masterpieces of the great
painter Kand Tan-yii. On this
side of the park are some buildings
often used of late years for art
exhibitions of various Mnds.

We now leave Ueno, and passing
along a busy thoroughfare, reach
the district of Asakusa. The first
object of interest here is the
spacious temple of Hig"ash.i Hon-
gwanji, popularly called Monzeki,
the chief religious edifice in Tokyo
of the Monto sect of Buddhists.
Though very plain, as is usual with
the buildings of this sect, the
Monzeki deserves a visit on ac-
count of its noble proportions. It
was founded in 1657. The iron
netting thrown over the temple is
intended to prevent sparks from
falling on the wood-work, should
a conflagration occur in the
neighbourhood. The huge porch
is adorned with finely carved
wooden brackets, the designs being
chrysanthemum flowers and leaves,
and peony flowers and leaves. On
the transverse beams are some
curiously involved dragons, which
are the best specimens of this
sort of work in Tokyo, and should
therefore not be passed over.
Observe, too, the manner — peculiar
to the buildings of this sect — in
which the beams are picked out
with white. The area of the
matted floor of the nave (gcjin)
is 140 mats, and roiind the front
and sides runs a wooden aisle 12
ft. wide. Over the screen which
separates the chancel and its side-
chapels from the nave, are massive
gilt open-work carvings of angels
and phoenixes, the largest of which
are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in
height. The rest of the builtiing
is unadorned. Hanging against
the gilt background of the temple
wall, on either side of the altar, are
to be seen several kakemonos of

Buddhist saints, indistinguishable
in the " dim rehgious light ; " also r.
the posthumous tablet of leyasu,
which is exposed for veneration on
the 17th of each month. The
honzon, Amida, is a black image,
always exposed to view, and stand-
ing in a very handsome shrine of
black and gold lacquer. From the
r. side of the main hall, a bridge
leads down to the Jiki-dO, or
preaching hall. At the main
temple, sermons are only preached
for one octave in the year, viz.
from the 21st to 28th November,
when the imposing services (Ho-on-
ko) held in honour of the founder
of the sect are well worth witness-
ing. On this occasion, the men all
go to the temple in the style of
dress known as kata-ginu, and the
women with a head-dress called
tsuno-kakushi (lit. " horn-hider "), —
both relics of the past. The "horn-
hider" would seem to have been so
named in allusion to a Buddhist
text which says : " A woman's
exterior is that of a saint, but her
heart is that of a demon." — Lesser
services are held at the time of the
vernal and autumnal equinoxes.
Quaint testimony is borne to the
popularity of this temple with the
lower middle class by the notices
posted up on some of the great
columns in the main hall. Not
only is there one to prohibit smok-
ing, but one warning people not
to come here for their afternoon
nap (Hiru-ne muyo) ! On quitting
the Monzeki, notice its nobly mass-
ive roof, with lions rampant at the
corners, also the two large mono-
liths r., commemorative of soldiers
who fell in the China war of 1894:-5.
About 7 did from the Monzeki,
stands the gi'eat Buddhist temple
of Sensdji, popularly known as the

Asakusa Kwannon, because
dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess
of Mercy.

A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the
founding in this locality of a Bbrine
sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being
that the image which is now worshipped

134

RovU: 4. — Tokyo.

there, was flshed up on the neighbouring
strand during the reign of the Empress
Suiko (A.D. 593-628) by a noble of the
name of Hashl-no-Nakatomo, who had
been exiled to this then desolate portion
ijf the coast, and with two attendants
gained his livelihood by casting his nets
at the mouth of the river Sumida. In his
fishing-hut the first altar is said to have
been raised : and the crest of three nets,
which is to be seen marking certain
portions of the buildings, was devised in
memory of the event. The miraculous
image is never shown, but is commonly
believed to be but 1 ; inch in height : and
the disproportion between the smallness
of the image and the vastness of the
temple has passed into a popular saying.
Instead of the original sacred image, there
i.s exhibited on the 13th December of
evei-y year a newer and larger one which
stands in front of the high altar. In the
year 1180,1 Yoritomo endowed the temple
with ninety acres of arable land. But
when leyasu made Yedo his capita], he
found the temple gone to ruin, and the
priests living in disorder and immorality.
The present buildings date from the reign
of lemitsu, after the destruction by fire
of the former edifice. They are in the
possession of the Tendai sect of Bud-
dhists.

On no account shoiiM a visit to
this popular temple and the sur-
ronnding grounds {KOenchi) be
omitted; for it is a gi-eat holiday
resort of the middle and lower
classes, and nothing is more strik-
ing than the juxtaposition of piety
and pleasiure, of gorgeous altars
and grotesque ex-votos, of dainty
costumes and dingy idols, the
clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens
and pigeons strutting about among
the worshippers, children playing,
soldiers smoking, believers chaffer-
ing A\-ith dealers of charms, ancient
art, modern advertisements, — in
fine, a sjiectacle than which surely
nothing more motley was ever wit-
nessed M-ithin the precincts of a
rehgious edifice. The most crowd-
e<l times are Sunday afternoon, and
the 17th and 18th of each month,
days sacred to Kwannon.

The outer main gate of the
temple no longer exists. One
walks up through a lane of red
brick shojjs, where toys, photo-
graphs, and gewgaws of all kinds are
spread out to tempt the multitude..

The two-storied gate in front of the
temple is a huge structure of red
wood, %^'ith images of the Ni-o on
either side. The immense sandals
hung up in front of the cages con-
taining these images, are placed
there by persons desirous of
becoming good walkers. To the 1.,
immediately before passing through
the big gate, is a popular Shrine of
Fiido, just outside of which is a
shrine of Jizo, distinguishable by
a praying-wheel {gosho-guruma)
fixed in a wooden pillar, the whole
roughly resembling a pillar post-
box. There is a newer and better
one inside the court of the Fudo
shrine, with an inscription to the
" Lord Jizo, Nourisher of Little
Children." Images of Jizo on a
small hexagonal structure stand
behind it.

The jiraying-wheel is in Japan, found
only in connection with the mystic doc-
trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects.
and its use diflers slightly from that to
which it is put in Thibet. Xo prayers are
written on it; but the worshipper, attri-
buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit kornw, which
means, the efi'ect in this life of the actions
in a former state of existence) any sin
of which he wishes to be cleansed, or any
desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel
with a simple request to Jizo to let this
ingwii duly ran its course — the course of
ingwa resembling the perpetual revolu-
tions of a wheel.

On the opposite or r. side of the
lane, on a mound, is the large Asa-
laisa bell, whose sonorous notes are
heard all over the northern part
of the city.

The great hall of the temple of
Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is
entirely suiTounded by a wide
gallery. The large picttire hanging
above the entrance to the r. re-
presents life (under the figure of
two sleeping men and a sleep-
ing tiger) as nothing more than a
dream, the only h\-ing reality in
which is the power of religion
(typified by a Buddhist priest).
Just below this rests a huge moku-
gyo, — a hollow wooden block, fish-
shaped, which priests strike while
l>raying. The eye is caught, on

Temjihi of Kwannon at Asal.um.

13")

entering, 1)y the iniiuense number
of lanterns and pictm'es whic^L
cover the ceiling and M'alls. These
are all offerings presented by be-
lievers. Some of the pictures are
by good modern artists. One over
the shrine to the r. represents a
performance of the No, or iuefli;eval
lyric drama, in which the red-hair-
ed sea-demon called Shojo plays
the chief part. Opi^osite is a
curious painted carving in relief,
representing the " Three Heroes of
Shoku " (a Chinese state established
in the "iud century chiefly by their
efforts). The hero on the r., called
Kwan-u, is no^\• worshijiped in
China as the God of War. To the
1. of this, is one showing On-Uma-
ya-no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string
to shoot the foes of his master
Yoshitsiine, the latter (to the r.)
being awakened by his mistress, the
renowned and lovely Shizuka Go-
zen. The ceiUng is painted with
representations of angels, the \A'ork
of Kano .Doshun. The seated image
to the r., with a pink bib round its
neck, is a celebrated work of Jikaku
Daishi, and represents Binznru,
the helper of the sick. At any time
of the day believers may be
observed rublnng it (see p. 45), so
that it is now partially rubbed
away. The stalls in front of the
main shrine are for the sale t)f
pictures of the goddess Kwannon,
which are used as charms against
sickness, to help women in child-
birth, etc., of tickets to say whether
a child aliout to be born will Ije a
l)oy or a girl, and so forth. There
is also a place where fortunes are
told by the priests.

The chancel is, as usual, separat-
ed from the nave by a wire screen,
and is not accessible to the public.
A small douceur tendered to one of
the priests in charge will, however,
generally procure admission. On the
high altar, resplendent with laiui^s,
(lowers, gold damask, and sacred
vessels, and guarded by figures of
the Shi-Tenno, of Bon ten, and of
Taishaku,— the latter said to be the

work of Oyogi Bosatsu, — stands the
shrine containing the sacred image
of Kwannon. On either side are
ranged im.ages, some 2 or 3 ft.
high, of Kwannon in her " Three-
and-Thirty Terrestrial Embodi-
ments," each set in a handsome
shrine standing out against the
gold ground of the wall. K. and 1.
of the altar hang a pair of votive
offerings — golden horses in high
rehef on a lacqiier ground — present-
ed by the Hhogun lemitsu. On the
ceiling is n dragon, the work of
Kano Eishin. The side altar to
the r. is dethcated to Fudo. Observe
the numerous vessels used in the
ceremony of the Goma 2)rayers,
which are frequently offered up
here for the recovery of the sick.
The twelve small images are the
Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwan-
non. The altar to the 1. is de-
dicated to Aizen Myo-o, whose red
image with three eyes and six arms
is contained in a gaudy slirine.
The two-storied miniature pagoda
is simply an offeiing, as are also
the thousand small images of
Kwannon in a case to the 1., and
the large European miiTor, in front
of which is a hfe-hke image of the
abbot Zenniu Shonin. At the back
of the main altar is another called
Ur'a Ktcannon (wa lueaning
"back"), which should l>e visited
for the sake of the modern wall-
liictures on lacquer with a back-
ground of gold leaf, by artists of
the Kano school.

True wall-paintings, that is, paintings
executed on a vertical surface, are ex-
tremely rare in Japan, the only well-
authenticatcfl examples known to us being
these at Asakiisa, some on plaster in the
Kouclo of the ancient monastery of Horyuji
near Kara, and others in the lower storey
of the pagoda of Toji at Kyoto. As a rule,
all so-called Japanese wall-paintings are
on large sheets of paper fl.xed in their
places after having been painted in a hori-
zontal position.

Above are a crowd of supernatu-
ral beings, headed by a converted
dragon in the form of a Ijeautiful
woman, who offers a large jewel to

136

Route 4. — Tokyo.

Shaka. Two of the latter's disciples
(Bakan) are at Ms r. foot, Monju at
ids 1. foot, and Fugen below on the
1. The figure of Fugen has been
restored within the last forty years.
Those on the r. and 1. walls are
intended for the Twenty-eight
Manifestations of Kwannon.

In the grounds are several biaild-
ings of interest, and a number of
icho trees whose golden f ohage in
autumn is in itself a sight. Behind
the great temple to the 1., stands a
small shrine full of ex-votos in-
scribed with the character ^5,
" eye," presented by persons afflict-
ed with eye disease. Beside it is a
large bronze image of Biiddlia, and
close by is a lantern on which be-
lievers pour water to obtain an an-
swer to their prayers. The small
hexagonal building immediately be-
hind the gi-eat temple is the JDaiho-
do or Jizo-do, containing a crowd of
little stone images seated in tiers
round a large one of Jizo. This
divinity being the special protector
of children, parents bring the
playthings of their dead httle ones
to his shiine. Beyond the Jizo-do,
is the Nemhidsu-do, with a pretty
altar. Turning r., we come to the
Sanja, — a Shinto shrine dechcated
to the Three Fishermen of the local
legend, and having panels decorat-
ed with mythological monsters in
gaudy colours. Note the bronze
and stone hons in front. Passing
the stage on which the Kagura
dances are performed, w-e reach
the Rinzo, or Revolving Library
(see p. 47), contained in a square
biiilding with carved hons on the
eaves. The Revolving Library is
of red lacquer on a black lacquer
base and stone lotus-shaped pedes-
tal. The ceiling of the small bnild-
ing containing it has representa-
tions of clouds and angels. The
images in front, on entering, re-
present Fu Daishi with his sons.
Those tramphng on demons are
the Shi-Tenno, and the hfe-size
gilt figure is Shaka. The books,
which were brought from China

early in the 13th century, are aired
every year at the autumn equinox,
but are not shown at other times.
The custochan, in return for a small
gratuity, will allow Adsitors to
make the library revolve.

The Fagoda close by is no longer
open to the pubhc.

Adjacent to the temple enclosure
we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or
Public Grounds, where stands the
lofty tower properly called Ryo-un-
kaku, and more popularly, Ju-ni-
kai. This building, erected in 1890,
has twelve storeys, as its popular
name implies, is 220 ft. in height,
nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter
at the base, and commands a more
extensive view than any other point
in the city. The grounds of Asa-
kusa are the quaintest and liveliest
place in Tokyo. Here are raree-
shows, penny gaffs, performing
monkeys, cheap photogi-aphers,
street artists, jugglers, wrestlers,
theatrical and other figures (ningyo)
in painted wood and clay, an aqua-
rium {sidzoku-kwan), vendors of
toys and lollypops of every sort,
and, circulating amidst all these
cheap attractions, a seething crowd
of busy hohday-makers.

Five min. drive behind the big
temple, stands a small but noted
one, Kinryu-zan, dedicated to the
god Shoden, on a mound called
Malsuchi-yama. This is a breezy
place, with a view across the river
Sumida towards the cherry avenue
of Mukojima. There is a ferry
close by.

The name Kinryu-zan, lit. "Golden
Dragon Hill," comes from a legend tell-
ing how the dragon which anciently
inhabited the river, climbed up to it
with a lantern to keep watch over the
great temple of Kwannon. Far-Eastern
dragons, be it observed, almost always
have some connection with water, whe-
ther river, lake, or rain-cloud.

About 1 m. to the N. of Asakusa
Park lies the world-famed Yoshi-
icara, the principal quarter inhabit-
ed by the licensed hetairte of the
metropolis. Many of the houses

Yoshiwara. Mukojima. Eko-in.

137

■within this distiict are almost pala-
tial in appearance, and in the eve-
ning present a spectacle probably
unparalleled in any other country,
but reproduced on a smaller scale
in the provincial Japanese cities.
The unfortunate inmates, decked
out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows
with gold screens behind, and pro-
tected from the outside by iron
bars. As the whole quarter is
under special municipal surveill-
ance, perfect order prevails, ena-
bling the stranger to study, while
walking along the streets, the
manner in which the Japanese
have solved one of the vexed ques-
tions of all ages. Their method,
though running counter to Anglo-
Saxon ideas, preserves Tokyo from
the disorderly scenes that obtrude
themselves on the passer-by in our
western cities.

On the other side of Azuma-bashi,
one of the big bridges of Tokyo,
is the Satake Yashiki, which otfers
an excellent specimen of the
Japanese style of landscape garden-
ing. A small fee will procure ad-
mittance to it. The noted Yao-
matsu tea-house stands close by.

Muk5jixna, celebrated for its
avenue of cherry-trees, stretches
for more than a mile along the
1. bank of the Sumida-gatca. When
the blossoms are out in April,
Mukojima is densely crowded with
holiday-makers from morn till dusk,
and the tea-houses on the banks
and the boats on the river re-echo
with music and meiTiment. This
sight, which lasts for about a week,
should on no account be missed.
Various regattas are held about the
same season. Tlie little temple at
the end of tlie avenue was raised in
remembrance of a touching episode
of the 10th centiiry, which forms
the subject of a famoiis lyiic
drama.

Ume-wafea, the child of a noble family,
was carried off from Kyoto by ii slave-
merchant, and perinhed in this distant
spot, where his body was found by a
good priest who gave it burial. The next

year hia mother, who had roamed over
the country in search of her boy, came to
the place, where, under a willow-tree, the
villagers were weeping over a lowly
grave. On asking the name of the dead,
she discovered that it was none other
than her own son, who during the night
appeared in ghostly form, and held con-
verse with her ; but when day dawned,
nothing remained bnt the waving
branches of the willow, and instead of
hia voice only the sighing of the breeze.
A commemorative service is still held on
the 15th March ; and if it rains on that
day, the people say that the rain-dropa
are Ume-waka's tears.

Another favourite flower resort,
lying some little way beyond
Mukojima, is Horikiri, famed for
its irises which bloom in June.
The excursion is a pleasant one at
that time of year.

7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundeed
Rakan. Kametdo. Distkict of
fukagawa. susaki.

Crossing Eyogoku-hashi, one of
the largest bridges in the metro-
polis spanning the Sumida-gawa,
we reach the noted Buddhist tem-
ple of Eko-in.

In the spring of 1C57, on the occasion of
a terrible conilagration which lasted for
two days and nights, 107.040 persons are
said to have perished in the flames. This
figure is no doubt a gross exaggeration,
but whatever the number of victims may
have been, the Government undertook
the care of their interment, and orders
were given to Daiizaemon, the chief of
the pariahs,* to convey the bodies to
Ushijima, as tliis part of Yedo was then
called, and dig for them a common pit.
Priests from all the different Buddhist
sects came together to recite, for tho apace
of seven days, a thousand scrolls of tiie
sacred books for the benefit of tho souls
of the departed. The grave was called
Mueri-zuhi, or the Mound of Destitution,
and the temple which was built near it
is, therefore, also popularly entitled Mwn-
ji. The services for the dead {segaki\ are
regularly held on the 'ind and 19th days

* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations
were to slaughter animals, tan leather,
assist at executions, etc. The class aa
such is now abolished ; but remnants of
its peculiar costume may still occasionally
be seen in tho persons of young girls with
broad hats, who go about the streets
playing and singing.

138

Pioute L—Tolyo.

of each month. Eljo-in being, ou account
of its peculiar origin, without the usual
means of support derived from the gifts
of the relatives of the dead, was formerly
used as the jjlace whither sacred images
were brought from other provinces to be
worshipped for a time by the people of
Yedo, and as a scene of public perform-
ances. The latter custom still survives
in the wrestling-matches and other shows,
which draw great crowds here every
spring and winter. At Eko-in prayers are
offered up daily for the souls of dead
animals. A fee of 30 cents will procure a
short service and burial in the temple
grounds for such domestic pets as cats,
dogs, etc., a larger sum being necessary if
the animal's thai, or funeral tablet, has
also to be furnished.

Eko-in might well be taken us a
text by those who denounce
"heathen" temples. Dirty, gaudy,
full of semi-defaced images, the
walls plastered with advertise-
meuts, the altiir guarded by two
hideous red Ni-6, children scamper-
ing in and out, MTestlers stamping,
crowds shoitting, — -the place lacks
even the semblance of sanctity.
In a small arched enclosure behind
the temple, stands the grave of the
celebrated highwayman Kezwni
Kozo, where incense is always kept
burning. The cemetery at the back
contains monuments to those who
l^erished in the great lire of 1657,
and in the great earthquake of 1855.

In Midori-cho, in the district of
Honjo, about 1 mile further on, is
a temple containing wooden images,
originally gilt over red lacquer,
almost life-size, of the Five Hund-
red Kalcan (Go-hyfdcu lialcan),
seated on slielves reaching from
the bare earth of the floor to the
rafters of the roof. They are from
the chisel of Shoun, an artist of
the 17th centiu-y. On some of
them are pasted sUps of paper with
their names. The much larger
image in the centre represents
Shaka, with Anan on his r. hand
and K.asho on his 1. The white
image in front of Shaka is Kwan-
non. The temple also contains a
hundretl small images of Kwannon.

Not far ofE stands the Shinto

temple of Temuiangfi, commonly
known as Kameido, from a stone
tortoise seated on a weU in the
grounds. Sugawara-no->Iichizane
is here worshipped under the title
of Temman Daijizai, i.e., " the Per-
fectly Free and Heaven-FilUng
Heavenly Divinity." The temi^le
grounds have been laid out in
imitation of those at Dazaifu, the
place of his exile. Passing in
through the outer gate, the eye is
tirst attracted by the wistarias
trained on trellis, whose blossoms,
during the last week of Ajjril, make
Kameido one of the chief show-
places of the capital. They grow on
the borders of a pond called »S7( inji
no Ike, or "Pond of the Word Heart,"
on accoimt of a supposed resem-
blance to (t\ the Chinese character
for " heart ; " and one of the
amusements of visitors is to feed
the carp and tortoises which it
contains. A semi-circular bridge
leads over the pond to a large gate
in yatsu-mune-zukuri (i.e., eight-
roofed) style, standing in front of
the temple. Glass cases inside the
gate enclose the usual large images
of Zuijin. Piound the walls of the
temjDle hang small pictures ou a
gold ground of the ancient religious
dances called BiKjaku.

Be^'^ond a shed containing two
life-size images of sacred ironies, is
an exit by Avhich the visitor can
reach the Ume-yasldki, or Plum-
Garden of Kameido, 4 did distant.
Here grow the Gicaryohal (lit.
Pluiu-trees of the Kecumbent Dra-
gon), and it is much \isited by the
citizens early in March, when the
blossoms are all out. There are over
500 trees, all extremely old and
partly creej)ing along the ground,
whence the name. Most of the cut
stones which stand about the
grounds are inscribed with stanzas
of poetry in praise of the flowers ;
and during the season, similar
tributes ASTitten on paper Mill be
seen hung up on the branches. A
few vlio ofE lies Miihiijinid, described
above.

Fahigairu. Susalci. T^uJciji.

139

The S.E. piirt of T6ky5, consist-
ing of the district of Fukagawa
on the 1. bank of the Suiaidii-gawa,
is a maze of narro\\' streets, chietly
inhabited by the lower trading and
artisan classes, and offers little for
the sightseer.

Joshinji, though the chief temple
of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is
quite iini)reteutious ; IjTit there are
some good carvings on the gates of
the priests' dwellings which line
the narrow street leachng np to it.
In the conrt-yard is a large l)ronze
image of Shaka supported on the
shoulders of stone demons ; and at
the back, l)eyond the cemeterj', a
curious superstitious practice may
be witnessed at the shrine of
Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone figure
of the saint stands in a little wooden
shed hung round with small reg-
ularly cut bundles of straw. The
faithful buy these at the gate, dip
them in water, brush the image
«ith them, and then ladle water
over its head, believing that this
ceremony will ensure a favourable
reply to their petitions. The image
is constantly wet, showing how tlrm
the belief is. The priests of the
sect seem unable to acccnint for the
origin of the usage.

The Buddhist tempL- commoidy
known as Fnlcai/mrK uo Ftuld, in
Tomioka Monzen-cho, is subsidiary
to the great shrine at Narita ; and
in imitation of the latter the
grcmnds are laid out in rococo
style, with inscribed stone slabs
and numerous small bronze
statuettes. It presents a lively
appearance i>n the 1st, loth, and
'28th of each month.

The adjacent Shinto teuiplo oi
JLarliinmii, dating from A.D. ICiSS,
shows traces of former Buddliist
influence. The walls and ceiling
are decorated with paintings ot
birds and flowers, and there are
also some pretty wood-carvings.
The ornamentation of the chancc^l
is extremely rich, the ceiling being
panelled, and gold profusely em-
ployed. Doves fly about the

gi'ounds, as is usual in temples
sacred to Hachiman. They are
supposed to act as this god's mes-
sengers,— strange messengers from
the Crod of War !

Down to the bBgiuning of the pre.sent
reign, the god Fudo mentiouedin the last
paragraph but one was worshii^ped in the
building now exclusively dedicated to
Hachiman. "rure 8hinto" views, how-
ever, then led to the separation of the two
cults and to the "purilication " of the ori-
ginal edifice, the Buddhist congregation
having been forced to remove next door
and build for themselves.

The district sitiuited between the
temi>le of Hachiman and that of
Sitsaki-no-Benten is noted for its
trade in timber, the town being here
intersected l>y numerous canals
commtinicating with the river,
down which come the timl)er-laden
rafts from the inland provinces.
The temple of Susaki 7(o Beiifen
(Susaki being the name of the pro-
jecting point of land on which it is
situated) dates from the latter ])art
of the 17th century, at which time
the ground on which it was erected
I'.ad only recently been reclaimed.
The temple itself is uninteresting ;
l)ut on a clear day there is a gooii
view from the embankment built
after the ra\ages of the inundations
and tidal waves of the eighth
decade of the IHth century. At
lo^^' tide, ^hich the Japanese con-
sider the prettiest tuue, and
especially if the season be spring,
numerous jileasure boats, with
singing-girls and other merry-
makers, will be seen lazily floating
about in the offing, watching the
oystev-catchers ply their trade.

H. — TSUKLJI.

On the way from the 8himl)ashi
terminus to the former Foreig-n
Concession in Tsukiji, several
imi)ortant modern buildings are
l)assed : — 1. the Fifteenth Bank, r.
the Inqierial Dei>artment of Com-
munications, and further on the
Department of Agriculture and
Commerce (Xoshoinushd), a huge

140

Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.

"building, one "wing of whicli is
occupied by a small but interesting
Commercial Museum, open from 9
to 3 in summer, and 10 to 3 in
winter. Near by stands the Kabuki-
za, one of the best theatres in the
metropolis. The Naval Academy is
seen to the r. beyond the canal.
Still further to the r. is the Shiha
Bikyu, formerly the summer palace
of the Shoguns, and more recently
a place of entertainment for il-
lustrious Tisitors. It is also \ised
once a year for an Imperial Garden
party, at the season when the
masses of double cherry-flowers are
in bloom. The Shiba Eikyu is
unfortunately not open to the
general public.

To the 1. is the enclosure of the
Nishi Hongvcanji, popularly called
the Tsukiji Monzeki, a huge temple
belonging to the rich and powerful
Monto sect. It has fi-equently been
burnt down, last of all in 18'J7,
but is now rebuilding.

A large proportion of the build-
ings in the Foreign Concession is
devoted to rehgious and education-
al purposes, testifying to the zeal
of the various missionary bodies,
whose members form the bullc of the
population. The most conspicuous
places of worshif) are the Cathedral
of the Protestant Episcopal Church
of iVmerica and the Roman
Catholic Cathedral. Another striking
building is the Hotel Jletropole,
situated on the Bund facing the
Sumida-gawa near its mouth. Be-
yond the river lies Ishikaica-jima,
where stands a large Convict
Prison. The land is gaining
rapidly on the water in this
district, the whole spit opposite
the Blind having been reclaimed
within the last five-and-twenty
years. On a fine breezy day, the
vessels sailing into the river mouth
add picturesque animation to the
scene.

EOUTE 5.

Excursions pkom Tokyo.

1. meguko and kithon-butstj. 2.
ikegami and haneda. 3. ftjtago

AND MAEIKO. 4. jtJNISO, HOEI-NO-

tjchi, and i-no-kashira. 5. ccr-
moeant-fishing on the tama-
g.4.wa. 6. koganei. 7. takao-zan.
8. mitake. 9. oji. 10. the caves
neab konosu. 11. naeita. 12.
ascent of tsukuba-san.

1. Meguko and Ktjhon-butsu.

Meguro (Tea-houses, * Uchida,
Hashiwa-ya ; there are several
others, but they are apt to be
noisy) is a native picnic resort,
3 m. out of the city westwards by
road or Suburban Railway ; but the
station is about a mile from the
village. Shortly after leaving the
station at the top of a descent call-
ed Gyonin-zaka, one sees 1. the
small temple of Daienji, which
deserves passing notice for the sake
of the Oo-hyaku Bakan, — tier upon
tier of small seated Buddhist
images in various attitudes of
meditation, quaint yet pathetic in
their stony stillness. Meguro is
seen to best advantage when either
the peonies or the chrysanthemums
are in blossom. There are two
permanent sights, — the Temple of
Fudo, and the gi-aves of Gompachi
and Komurasaki. The key to the
latter is kept at the Kado-Ise tea-
house at r. corner of the turning
which leads to the temple. The
grave is called Hiyoku-zuka, after
the hiyoku, a fabulous double bird
which is revered as the emblem of
constancy in love. It may be added
that sentiment is the only motive
for visiting the gi'ave, as there is
really nothing to see.

About 260 years ago, there lived a
young man called Shirai Gompachi, who
at the age of sixteen had already won a
name for his skill in the use of arms, but,
having had the misfortune to kill a fellow-
clan.^ man in a quarrel over a dog, was

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S iMp/. /'ti/t/rr

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Meguro. Kuhon-butsu. Ikegami.

141

compelled to fly from bis native province.
While resting at an inn on his way to
Tedo, a beautiful girl named Komurasaki
came and awoke him at midnight, to tell
him that a band of robbers, who had
stolen her from her home, intended to
kill him for the sake of the sword which
every samurai at that time carried.
Being thus forewarned, Gompachi
succeeded in slaying the thieves when the
attack was made upon him. He also
restored the girl to her grateful father, a
rich merchant, who would have been glad
to make the young man his son-iu-law ;
but being ambitious, Gompachi insisted on
pursuing his way to Yedo. Meanwhile,
unhajapy Komurasaki was left to pine for
the handsome youth with whom she had
fallen deeply in love. After further
adventures. Gompachi reached Yedo, only
however to fall into dissolute habits.
Hearing much praise of a lovely and ac-
complished girl who had lately become
an inmate of the Yoshiwara, Gompachi
went to see her, anil was astonished to
find in the famous beavity no other than
the maiden whom he had but a few
months before rescued from the robbers'
den. It was the usual pathetic story.
Her parents having become poverty-
stricken, she had sold herself in order to
alleviate their distress. Frequent visits
to his sweetheart soon exhausted Gom-
pachi's slender means, and having no
fixed employment, he was driven in des-
peration to murder a man for the sake of
money to spend at the Yoshiwara. The
crime was repeated, until he was caught
red-handed, and ultimately beheaded as
a common malefactor. A friend claimed
the body and buried it at Meguro, whither
poor Komurasaki hastened on hearing the
sad news of her lover's end, and throwing
herself on the newly-made grave, plunged
a dagger into her bosom aud died.

At the bottom of the steps lead-
ing lip to the temjile of Fudo, is a
pool fed by two tiny cascades. To
stand naked imder the stream of
water for several hours in cold
weather is considered a meritorious
penance, the efEect of which is to
wash away all taint of sin. Tradi-
tion says that Jikaku Daishi, the
foiander of this temple, miraculous-
ly called the spring into existence
by the aid of his mace (tokko),
whence the name of Tokko-no-iaki,
or Mace Cascade. The most re-
markable of the ex-votos is a huge
sword, such as the god Fudo is
often represented with.

(To prevent mistakes, it may here
be noted that J ri from Meg^uro

proper, and nearer Tokyo, lies an-
other village called Knmi-Meguro.)

Kuhon-butsu. These temples,
containing the nine large and hand-
somely gilt images of Buddha fi'om
which the place derives its name,
are situated in the vicinity of
Meguro. The direct way is along
the main road to Futago, — J hr.
ride from the Meguro railway
station, — thence for 15 min. by
]5ath 1. across the fields, which
finally emerges on an avenue lead-
ing to the temple buildings, charm-
ingly situated amongst finely wood-
ed surroundings. Kuhon-butsu be-
longs to the Jodo sect of Biiddhists.
In the upper storey of the massive
gateway repose a number of gilt,
but sadly neglected, images of
Kwannon. The main hall stands
in the centre of the grounds, and
faces the three shrines in each of
which are three images, — excellent
specimens of the sculptor's art, and
all in a good state of preservation.

2. — Ikeoami. Haneda-no-Inaei.

_ Ikegami is reached by train to
Omori station on the Yokohama
line in ^ hr., whence it is about 1 m.
by jinnkisha. The great temple
of Hommonji (see p. 42 for plan) is
celebrated as the spot where the
Buddhist saint Nichiren died in
A.D. 1282. Its tine situation and
magnificent timber make it one of
the most attractive points within
easy reach of Tokyd. The best
time to visit it is on the 12th — 13th
October, when the annual festival
in Nichiren' s honour takes place.
On this occasion over 20,000 per-
sons make the pilgrimage. An-
other festival is held from the 22nd
to 28th April. At the top of the
temple steps is 1. the Daiinoku-do,
where some of the faithful are gen-
erally to be heard beating the drum
and reciting the formulary of the
sect, — " Nariiu Mydho JRenge Kyo."
Next to this is a shrine dedicated
to Kato Kiyomasa. Then comes
the 8haka-dd, or HaU of Shaka,

142

Route 5. — Excursions from Tohvo.

where worshippers pass the night
at the time of the annual festival,
with, behind it, another bnilding
containing a complete set of the
Bnddhist scriptures that may be
made to revolve on a huge
hexagonal wheel. Fronting the gate
is the Soslii-flo, or Founder's Hall,
dedicated to Nichiren, the restora-
tion of which in handsome style
evinces the popularity which this
sect enjoys. On the altar stands
an exquisitely lacqiiered shrine,
containing a life-size image of
Nichiren in sitting ix)sture, sfiid
to have been carved by Nichiro,
one of his chief disciples. The
upper part of the wall is decorated
Avith pictures of angels playing on
musical instruments. Behind the
altar, outside the temple, is a
pictorial representation of the chief
incidents in the saint's life. The
extensive buildings at the rear are
the residences of the abbot and
monks. Although Nichiren died at
Ikegami, his bones were conveyed
to Minobii ; all that remain here
are one tooth and the ashes of his
funeral pyre. The shrine {Koisu-do)
containing these relics is a short
way down the hill to the 1., in a
line viith the Priests" Apartments.
This building, about '20 ft. in
diameter, is of the shape of an
Imhan stupa reposiug on a huge
lotus-tlower of stone. A gilt shrine
of the same form as the building
itself stands inside on a table
formed of a lotus-flower canied by
eight green tortoises, and inside
this again is a crystal jar A\ith the
relics. The interior, though not
accessiljle, may be fairly well seen
through the wire grating of the
A^dndows. At the top of the small
hill immediately above the Kotsu-
do, stands a stone monument
marking the original burial-place
of the saint (A'o.s-o Mi-tmnaya).
Below the Kotsu-do, down a few
steps, there are three shrines, the
smallest of which {Daiho), much
A'isited by pilgrims, f)ccupies the
site of the house in which Nichiren

died. Ifere is ^hown a tiny image
which he is said to have carved A\ith
the aid of a mirror on the day
preceding his death ; also the pillar
against which he leant during his
last moments.

One may picnic either sit the iea-
Itouse (Tamba-ya) in the village, or
(but in this case notice must be
sent the day before, as the matter
is more or less one of favour) at
Eijuin, a temple in the wood behind
the pagoda, having beautiful plum-
trees and peonies, besides a fine
A-ieM-. The imposing-looking tomb
in the temple garden is that of a
Daimyo's wife. A third place, im-
mediately below the pagoda, is the
immense tea-house of Akebono-ro,
popularly known as Ikeijami Otisen.
It is quite a curiosity, sprawling as
it does up and down two hills by
means of galleries and bridges,
which remind the beholder of
scenes in Chinese art. This tea-
house is a favourite native holiday
resort.

In this neighbourhood, aboTit 2
ri S. E. of Omori station, near the
mouth of the Tamagawa, stands
the shrine of Haneda-no-Inari,
— quite small, but curious ov.ing
to the thousands of torii in the
grounds. The two cMef festivals
are on the " Middle Day of the
Horse" (Naka-nu-uma) in March
and September. Visitors to the
temple nnght rest at the Kaname-
kwan or Haneda-kwan iea-house,
where there are jets of natural gas
and cold mineral spring.

3. FUTAGO AND MaEIKO.

Futago (111 II, Kame-ya) stands
on the banks of the Tamagawa, 2 J ri
by jinrikisha ft-om Tokyo. Just
before reaching the river, there is
a striking view of Fuji with a pano-
rama f)f the surroumhng country.
During the summer months, the
Japanese visit Futago for the sake
of the sport — if sjiort it can be
termetl — of watching tishermen net

Jini ISO. Hori-no-uclii. l-iKj-Las/u'ra.

the (iL ii kind of trout. One ri
d( )wu the river from Futago lies

Mariko (Imi., Wakamatsu-ya, on
the Tokyo side), a place of similar
liharacter. The distance by the
direct jiiirildsha road from Mariko
to Tokyo is 2 ri 30 cho. An alter-
native way of returning to Tokyo
is to take boat down the river to
Kawasaki station, which is abont
2 hrs. from Ftitago. It is quite a
pretty walk from Mariko to Ike-
gami, mostly by the side of a
stream, 1 rl.

4. ^-JfTNISO, HOBI-NO-TJCHI AND

I-NO-KASHIRA.

Juaiso. Train to Shinjiku sta-
tion on the Siibiirban Line, or jin-
rildsha all the way. Crossing the
railway, the extensive buildings
seen on the 1. are those of the new
water-works for the supply of
Tokyo, whence, proceeding along
the Ome Kaido for 10 min., the
path to Juniso turns 1. through the
fields, and in 10 min. more a short
avenue of pines is reached, leading
to the small and deserted temple
of Jiiniso Gongen. Below the
temple lies a small lake, plentifully
stocked with a species of carp.
Several tea-sheds stand at the
upper end. Juniso is a favourite
spot for pleasiire parties during the
summer months.

Hori-no-uchi may be reached
in I hr. from Juniso. A lane
directly behind the tea-sheds soon
rejoins the Ome Kaidd, along
which we proceed for \ hr., to leave
it again by a path 1., at the corner
of which is a pretty plum orchard.
A short distance beyond, the path
turns r., where a stone inthcates
the distance to Hori-no-uchi as 1(5
(li.o. From here stretches an avenue
of double cherry-trees lined with
shops for the sale of rosaries, salted
plums, toys, etc. The temple of
Myohoji at Hori-no-uchi, belonging
to the Nichiren sect, merits a visit
for the sake of the excellent
carvings that adorn the main

building, — those of dragons in the
porch, below the architrave, and in
the eaves being especially spirited.
The iron gates and railing to the r.
of the main entrance are good
specimens of modern worlcman-
ship. On the 1. of the court, is a
long shed tilled with a curious
collection of ex-votos, such as the
queues of men whose prayers have
been gi'anted by the interposition
of Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In
the main hall, a splendid shrine 5
ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered
with gilt carvings, occupies the
centre of the further side of the
chancel. It contains a seated
image of Nichiren, said to be the
earliest efKgy of that saint, and to
have been carved in A.D. 12G1. It
can be seen and a short service in
its honour witnessed, on payment
of a small fee. The principal
festival is held on the 13th Octo-
ber, the anniversary of Nichiren's
death. A polite request wll gener-
ally gain permission to visit the
pretty landscape garden attached
to the main temple.

Half a rl further on, the once
noted temple of Omiya Hachiman
stands mouldering and deserted.
A stately avenue of cryptomerias
and maple-trees, together with
several toril, attests its former im-
portance.

Proceeding through the flat
fields for 3.1m. further, vro reach
the Temple of Bpnicn, situated on
the borders of the Uttle lake of
I-no-kashira, w-hose waters, de-
rived fi'om seven small springs,
supply the aqueduct leading to
Kanda in Tokyo.

History says that iu 1000 the lake was
visited by leyasu, who foiiiul the water
so excelleut that it was used ever after
for making His Highness's tea. In 163;»
his grandson, the Shogim lemitsu, gave
orders for the water to be laid on to the
Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occasion
of a visit to the lake, carved with the
small knife from his dirk the head of a
wild boar {i-no-l;ashira) on the trunk of a
tree close by, whence the present name.

I-no-kashira attracts visitors

144

Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.

chiefly in Apiil for the cheiTy-
blossoms, and in May for the
azaleas. The return may be made
from Kichijoji station, which is
only 2 cho from I-no-kashira, and i-
hr. fi'om Shinjikn.

5. — CoRMOKANT-FlSHIXG ON THE

Tamagawa.

This curious method of catching
fish may be seen at Hlno, a Till,
on the TamagaM'a. This place is
reached by train from Tol^yo (Shin-
jiku station, see next column) in
a httle over 1 hr., whence 8 chd by
jinriMsha to the Tamagaica-tei tea-
house where the cormorants are
kept, and 2 cho further to the river.
The charge for three fishermen
and a servant is 2 yen ; a covered
boat (yane-bune) costs 1 yen extra.
The sport lasts fi'om the middle of
May to the end of September, being
conveniently carried on during the
daytime, — not at night, as at the
better known cormorant fishery
of Gifu on the Tokaido. The
fishermen wade about in the
water, holding the ungainly bu'ds
by strings, and reUeving them of
their prey, wliich is then handed
over to the servant. A fan- quantity
of small trout (ai) may generally
be reckoned on, and can be cooked
at the tea-house if desired.

6.— KOGANEI.

Koganei, with a fine avenue
of cherry-trees 2<} m. in length
along the banks of the smaU canal
that conducts the waters of the
Tamagawa to Tokyo, only deserves
a visit when the trees are in blos-
som. It is reached by train to
Sakai on the Hachioji hne, J hr.
from Shinjiku Junction, and 20
min. distant from the avenue.

Ten thousand young trees were brought
from Yoshino in Yaniato, — the most
famous place for cherry-trees in Japan, —
and from the banks of the Sakura-gawa in
Hitachi, and planted here in 1735 by com-
mand of the Shogun Yoshimune.

The crowds that assemble daily to
revel under the shade of the pink
and white blossoms about the mid-
dle of April, present a gay spectacle.
Instead of returning to Sakai, it
will be found shorter to walk on to
Kokubiinji station, about 20 min.
from the upper end of the avenue.

7. — -By the K5bu Kailwat
TO Takao-zan.

S 3

§gd

Names

^S'a

Remarks

.2 <W *^

Stations

SHINJIKU Jet.

J m.

Okubo

Nakano

5 J

Ogikubo

7 i

Kichijoji

For I-no-kashi-
ra.

Sakai

For Koganei.

Kokubunji Jet. . .

Tachikawa Jet. . .

For Tamagawa
Valley, Rte.27.

Hino

HACHIOJI.

This is a favourite exciu'sion in
spring and aiitumn ■with holiday-
makers from Tokyo. The railway
journey to Hachioji occupies 1^ hr.,
whence it is 2 ri along the jilain to
the foot of Takao-zan. JinriMshas
or basha traverse this distance in
1 hr.

The railway, on lea^'ing Shinjiku,
leads for a short distance close to
the Florists' Gardens of Okubo,
noted for their azaleas, the rest of
the route passing mostly over a
flat country, with heavy, clayey
soil. The Tamagawa and one of
its afliuents are crossed before
reaching

Hachioji {Lin, Kado-ya), the
centre of an important silk district,
but otherwise uninteresting. A
short distance beyond the vill. of
Komagino, the path leading up
Takao-zan turns oflE r. from the
main road, and crosses the
stream, from which point to the
temple buildings is a walk of about
Ihr.

Takao-zan. Mitake. Oji.

145

Takao-zan is a hill rising some
1,600 n. above the sea. On the
summit stands a much fi-equent-
ed temple, surrounded by a splen-
did grove, chiefly of cryptomerias,
planted by Buddhist devotees.
The road is lined \\-ith posts on
which are recorded the names of
persons who have presented young
trees, so many hundreds at a time,
with the object of maintaining the
grove undiminished. On the plat-
form at the top of the ascent stands
a fine bronze pagoda, 12 ft. in height.
Above this, on another terrace, are
three shrines dedicated to Fudo,
Yakushi, and Dainichi ; and at the
top of a long flight of steps is a
gaudily decorated Shinto shrine
with painted carvings. ITie annual
festival takes place on the 21st
April. Trees shut out the view
from this point ; but lower down a
space has been cleared, from which
the eye ranges over the plain of
Tokyo and the sea in the distance.
A narrower and steeper path than
that ascended may be taken on
the way down, which affords pretty
glimpses of the densely wooded
valley.

8. MlTAKE.

Mitake is a sacred peak, easUy
reached from Tokyo in_one day
by taking train to Ome (see
Eoute 27). There are_two ways of
proceeding on from Ome, viz., the
M'main Kaido, or "Sunny Boad"
on the 1. bank of the Tamagawa,
and the Hilcage Kaido. or "Shady
Eoad," on the r. bank. It is possi-
ble to go the whole way in jinriM-
sha with three men by either of
these. The distance is estimated
at 4 ri. The -sill, of Mitake possess-
es no inns ; but accommodation
can be had at the houses of the
priests, who, though not making any
charge, should be diily remunerat-
ed. The priesthood here has for
ages been hereditary in a few fa-
mihes, who intermarry almost ex-
clusively among each other. The

Main Temple, just above the A-ilL,
is sacred to the Shinto deities
Onamuji, Kushimachi, Sukuna-
bikona, and Ukemochi-no-kami,
the divine j)rotectress of silkworms.
The Oku-no-in, 18 cho distant, is
dedicated to Yamato-take.

Grand timber and a profusion of
flowering shrubs clothe the steep
sides of all this maze of hills. The
best expedition at Mitake, occupy-
ing half a day, is to the waterfalls
of Kanm/o-taki, thence up Odake,
a high peak at a considerable dis-
tance, and back over the Oku-no-in
to the village. T)ais walk may be
curtailed by omitting Odake.

The return to Ome may be va-
ried by taking the hill path over to
Unazawa on the Tamagawa, a walk
of IJ hr., almost entirely under
shade, and yet aifording i^rettily
diversified views, whence 14 miles
down_ the valley by the main road
into Ome.

9.— Oji.

The viih of Oji, long a favourite
retreat in the suburbs of Tokyo,
now presents more the aspect of a
manufacturing centre than of a
holiday resort. Huge brick build-
ings, paper and cotton mills, the
clash of machinery, and lofty chim-
neys from which columns of smoke
sweep over the cherry-trees on
Asuka-yama, depiive the place of
much of its former tranquillity
and beauty. Oji, nevertheless, stiU
remains one of the attractions in
the environs of the great city ; and
crowds flock thitlier t'W'ice yearly, —
in spring when the cherry-trees are
in blossom, and in autumn when
the maples lining the banlcs of the
little stream called Takino-mwa
put on their crimson tints.

The train from Ueno station
lands one in a few minutes close to
the noted iea-hoiises, Ogi-ya and
Ebi-ya, which stand together on
the edge of the water, and look out
on a small but tastefully arranged
garden. Half a mile bej^ond the

146

Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo.

tea-houses, iu a grove of evergreen
oaks on the top of a sUght emi-
nence, stands the Temple of Luiri,
consisting of two rather dilapidat-
ed bnildings. In the coiirt-yard
are some line old cherry-trees.
The temple and httle waterfall
dethcated to Fndo, also in the
vicinity of the tea-houses, attract
many "sisitors. As the trains are
generally full to overflowing during
the cherry and maple seasons,
some -visitors may prefer to go out
by road. The prettiest way, 5 m.,
leaves the httle lake at Ueno, and
passing through the suburb of
yhinio Komagome, turns to the r.
on reaching the tomb of the Dai-
myo of Kaga, descends the hill,
and follows up the valley to the 1.

lU. — The Caves (Hyaka Aiui) neab
Koxosu.

These interesting artificial Caves
are situated at Kita Yoshimi-mura
in the prefecture of Saitama, and
are witlun the limits of a short day's
exciirsion fi'om Tokyo. Konosu
is reached in 1^ hr. by train from
Ueno station. The jinriMsha road
to Kita Yoshimi-mura, '2J ri distant,
crosses the railway line not far
from the station, and runs over
the plain straight towards the
Chichibu mountains. Kita Yoshi-
mi-mura nestles under the first hill
met Avith on the road. At the fur-
ther end of the village, the path to
the caves turns ofE r. On the way,
a (juaint old temple of Kivannon is
seen, wedged in between rocks, from
the inner side of which an entrance
leads to a chamber containing a
number of stone images of Kwan-
non. A few yards beyond stands
the office of the local authorities,
by whom the caves, which he close
by, are now maintained. The
whole hillside, a greyish tufaceous
sandstone, is honeycombed with
these reHcs of a remote antiqiuty,
^hose origin and use have given
rise to controversy amongst the
learned.

Mr. Aston, the liioneer iu Japauese ar-
cliieological research, declares that there
is good reason to believe that the caves
were primarily intended for sepulchres,
although some were doubtless used as
shelters by beggars and outlaws at a
later period ; while Dr. Tsuboi, of the
Imperial University of Tokyo, an energe-
tic worker iu the same tield, and the dis-
coverer of most (if the caves at Yoshimi-
mura, maintains that they were the habita-
tions of the beings whom the Japa-
nese term "earth-spiders." The original
Japaue.se word is tswhi-gumo. There is
considerable doubt as to its etymology,
though every one agrees in interpreting it
to denote a race of cave-dwelling savages.
Motoori, the greatest of all Japanese
literati, explains the name by a com-
parison of the habits of the race in ques-
tion with those of the spider. But it is
surely more rational to regard the word
tSKChi-guiHo as a eomiption of tsuchi-go-
rtiori. " ea-rth-hiderx," than which no name
could be more appropriate to troglodytes.
These people, who were widely spread
over Jajjan in prehistoric times, were
probably the ancestors of the modem
Ainos. One of the earliest Japanese his-
tories describes them as ' ' short in stature,
and having long arms and legs like
pigmies." Jimmu Tenno is said to havf^
massacred a number of them iu one of
their cave-dwellings. — Although the chief
authority on such matters, Mr. Willian
Gowland, in his elaborate monograph on
the "Dolmens and Burial .Mounds in
Japan," does not mention this particular
locality, which was only discovered after
his departure from Japan, a careful perusal
of hi.s work leaves no room for doubt that
Mr. Aston was right in regarding them,
not as dwellings but as burial places, a-
greeing, as they do, iu so many respects
with the dolmens widely scattered over
Japan south of latitude 37'^.

The caves, most of which face
due S., are believed to number two
hundred and thirty-seven in all.
The entrances are about 3 ft.
square ; then comes a passage of (5
ft. and iipwards in length, leading
to a second doorway within which
are the chambers. These are of
various sizes, many being 6 ft.
square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high.
The ceilings are dome-shaped.
Each chamber contains one or two
ledges having slightly raised
borders. Traces of the use of tools
are visible on the walls. Iron
rings, arrow-heads, etc., have been
found in some of the caves ; but
the presence of these is doubtless

The Temple of Narita.

147

ilue to the fact, as local tradition
asserts, that parties of fighting men
took refuge here in more modem
times. The hill affords an extensive
view of the adjacent mountains,
including Buk5-zan in the Chichibu
range, Fuji, and Asama-yama. The
town of Matsuyama (Inn, K6ji-ya)
lies only V-i cho ofp. It contains a
large Shinto temple to the gods of
Inari, called the Yakyii Innri.

10. — The Temple op Naeita.
Shedje of Sakxtba Sogoeo. Kadoei.

A visit to the famous shrine of
the god Fudo at Narita is recom-
mended to those who would see
Buddhism still a power in the land,
alive and flourishing in the soil of
popular piety. The wood-carvings,
too, that adorn some of the build-
ings are excellent specimens of
modern art. Trains run from
Tokyo (Honjo station) in 2^ hrs. (see
Route 21). The village clustering
at the base of the low hill on which
the temple stands, possesses a large
number of inns. The Wakamatsu-
ya and Ebi-ya are the best.

The full name of this holy place is
Narita-san Shingo Shinshoji, i.e. "the
Divinely Protected Temple of Beeent Vic-
tory on Mount Narita." The story of its
origin is as follows : —

At the time of the foundation of the
Buddhist faith, an Indian sculptor named
Bishukatsuma carved a wonder worldng
image of the god Fudo (see p. 48), which
image, after the lapse of many centuries,
was sent to China, where it passed into
the hands of a holy priest named Keikwa
Ajari. When the great Japanese saint,
Kobo Daishi. visited China in A.D. 804,
to seek instruction in Buddhist mysteries,
this priest it was who became his teacher:
and when teacher and disciple were about
to part, each was warned in a dream
that the miraculous image was destined
for Japan, and accordingly Kobo Daishi
brought it home with him and enshrined
it in a temple on Takao-zan near
Kyoto, together with attendant flgures of
Seitaka Doji and Kongara Doji which he
carved with his own hand. iSow it hap-
pened that about a century and a half
later, a revolution broke out. Masakado,
a courtier of high birth, taking ofieuce
at the refusal to appoint him on the staff
of an embassy about to start for China,

rebelled against the legitimate sovereign
Shujaku Tenno. Retiring to his native
province of Shimosa, he sacrilegiously
assumed the title of Mikado, bnilt liini-
self a capital in which the place-names
round about Kyoto were plagiarised,
established a mimic Court, and havin"-
made himself master of several provinces
in Eastern Japan, prejjared to march
upon Kyoto. The legitimate Mikado,
thereupon, not content with despatchinc^
against the rebel such valiant loval wai^
riors as Fujiwara-no-Tadabumi, faira-no-
Sadamori, and Tawara Toda Hidesato,
applied to the priests for supernatuiai
assistance. It was found that no god was
so powerful as Fudo, and no image of
him so miraculous as that which K6b5
Daishi had brought over. Accordingly
Kwancho Daisqjo, a celebrated abbot
of those days, who was also a scion
of the Imperial family, was com-
missioned to carry the image to the seat
of war and exorcise the enemy. The
abbot _ embarked at Naniwa (now the
city of Osaka), and soon landed on the
coast of Eastern Japan, whence he pro-
ceeded inland, and, having set up the
miraculous image on a rock near the
rebel's capital, performed before it for
three weeks the Goma ceremony, that is
prayers and incantations recited while a
Are is kept burning on the altar. The
result was the total defeat and death of
Masakado in the year 940, the triumph
of the loyalists, and preparations on
the part of the abbot to return home
when lo and behold ! the image waxed
heavy as a rock, and utterly refused to
move ! As usual, a dream served to ex-
plam matters. The god Fudo appeared
and declared his intention of remaining
where he was, to bless and civilise East-
ern Japan. Accordingly the grateful
Mikado granted fund.s for the construc-
tion of a temple on a grand scale : and as
local circumstances forbade remaining on
the exact spot where the image had at
first been set up, lots were drawn by
thirty-three villages in the surrounding
<ouutry-side, and the lot feU on Narita"
Time brought further changes, and the
present site— the hill known as Myo-
ken-zan— was built on only in 1704. Pro-
bably the great popularity of the Narita
.-shrine dates from about that period. In
any case, the then recent founding of the
new capital, Yedo, in the near neighbour-
hood had furnished it with a lar^e
number of potential pilgrims : and for
some reason otherwise inexplicable, actors
and other public entertainers, who flourish
most in groat cities, have long been its
most ardent votaries. Many repairs and
additions have been made during the
present century, the gi-eat Ni-o gate datins
from 1831, and the MidO from 1856. Of
the many relics preserved in the treasure-
house of Narita, the_ most highly valued
is the Ama/cicni iin Iwken, a .sword said to

148

Route 5. — Excursions from. Tokyo.

have been forged by A-uiakuni, the first
of all Japanese smiths, for the Emperor
Mommu (A.D. 683—697). who prized it
equally with his crown regalia After
the suppression of Masakado's rebellion,
this sword was presented to the god Fudo
by the then Emperor Shu.iaku, in grate-
ful acknowledgment of that deity's assis-
tance. One touch of it is VjeUeved to cure
insane iiersons and those possessed of
foxes. It would seem, however, to be
now never shown. A festival takes place
on the 2Sth of each month, April and
May being the most crowded.

The temple stands on the side of
a Mil in a line gi-ove of cryptomeri-
as and otlier trees. It is approacli-
ed from the inns by a paved avenue
lined with stone lanterns. To the
r. of the Tamagakl (stone wall), is
a well where pilgrims perform the
ceremony of washing ■s\-ith cold
water. Close by is the Danjiki-do,
■whither devotees retire to fast
during a whole week, the only
refi-eshment permitted to them
being the use of the cold bath. For-
merly the period was three weeks.

Tradition says that this practice was
instituted about the middle of the 16th
century by the saint Doyo, who passed
a hundred days in religious exercises.
At last his prayers were answered by a
vision of the god, who offered him the
choice of a sharp or a blunt sword to
swallow. The saint chose the sharp one,
which the god thrust down his throat,
causing the blood to llow freely. On
awakening he found his intellectual
powers immensely increased, and felt no
traces of the wound. Nevertheless,
priests' robes dyed with the blood spilt on
this occasion are preserved am.0Lig the
treasures of the temple.

In a building to the r. of the Dan-
jiki-do, worshipijers may often be
seen seated in a circle, handing
round one to another a huge rosary
to which a bunch of horse-hair is
attached, and chanting the invoca-
tion " JVamu Amida Butsu." Oppo-
site is the Onna Danjiki-do, reserved
for females. Both buildings have
ex-votos over the entrance.

To the 1. of the TamagaM, a
shrine called the Daishi-do dedicated
to Kobo Daishi, contains an image
of that saint, besides tine carvings
of dragons. The other buildings are
residences of the priests.

The Ni-o-mon at the top of the
first flight of steps is a massive
structure of keyaki wood, orna-
mented with carvings by Got5
Kisaburo. Under the architrave
are eight groups representing Chi-
nese children at play, and sages,
probably intended for the " Seven
Sages of the Bamboo Grove," whose
recreations are chess, music, draw-
ing, and calligraphy. At the r. end
are groups of young cock-fighters,
and the child delivered from the
tall water-jar by his sharp-witted
companion Shiba Onko, who breaks
a hole in it with a stone to let the
water escape. In front r. is a sage
■«Titing an inscription, 1. another
plajing on the harp. On the 1.
side are children at play, and a
group the central figure of which
dances to the music of flageolet and
dnun. At the back are groups of
checker-players and of sages in-
specting a picture. Close to the r.
of the Ni-o-mon stands a hand-
some granite beacon erected in
1894, and decorated with the names
of the donors in lettering of bright
red, — the colour of Fudo's flames.
Notice also the huge sword meant
to scare away evil-doers.

On either side of the steps lead-
ing up from this gate to the Hondo,
or Main Temple, the prettily ar-
ranged rockwork crowded ^\ith
bronze and stone figures has a pe-
culiarly bizaiTe but not unpleasing
effect.

As one approaches the Hondo,
the first thing that strikes the eye
is the huge receptacle for money-
offerings. Above it is a large panel
^vith carvings of phoenixes gor-
geously coloui-ed, and on the r. and
1. of this are coloured panels of
peacocks, also in rehef. This is
the only colouring about the build-
ing, the rest of the exterior being
of unpainted keyaki wood. The
sides and the back are decorated
with eight splendid panels, each
9 ft. by 4 ft., representing groups
of the Go-hyaku Rakan in low rehef,
with an immense variety of incident

Narita. Sakura Sdgoro. Kadori.

149

and portraiture. They were carved
by Matsumoto Eydsan. On the
huge doors that close the sliding
windows of this part of the build-
ing, are beautiful carvings of the
Twenty-four Paragons of Fihal
Kety, each panel (2J ft. by 2 ft.)
• containing twosubjects by Shima-
mura Shumbyo. The dragon and
angels on the ceiling, and the bold
sketches of the Ju-roku Eakan be-
hind the main altar are by Kano
Kazunobu, a painter of the present
century.

In the Naijin, or Holy of Hohes,
is the sacred black image of Fudo
(often called Dainichi, with whom,
as mentioned on p. 46, Fudo is
identified), hardly visible in the
dim hght. Among the rockery
behind are thirty-six small bronze
figures ; in the centre at the top is
Fudo in a cave, and higher up on
the r. the saint En-no-Shokaku.
The grotesque figures popularly
called Baira-botchi in the gables,
which bear the ends of the ridge-
pole, are excellent expressions of
the effort to support a heavy bur-
den. Round the building, under
the architrave, are groups of fabu-
lous animals.

The three-storied Pagoda is a
beautiful exami^le of this architec-
tural form, finely decorated and
painted. The black groups on the
four sides represent the Sixteen
Rakan, the work of Shimamura
Entetsu. The bell-tower opposite
is also well worth a few minutes'
attention. Close by on the r. is a
handsome hbrary (Kyddn), contain-
ing a highly decorated revolving
octagonal box borne on the
shoulders of parti-coloured demons.
Note the pecuHar coffered ceiling
painted ^ith kaleidoscopic pat-
terns. In tlie ex-voto Hall {Ema-
dd) to the 1. of the Library, are
pictures of Fudo helping sui>
phants ; also a huge rosary, the
string of which is a cable made of
human hair, and various other gifts.
The two large anchors thickly en-
crusted with barnacles were found

by fishermen near Shirahama, off
the coast of Boshu.

A flight of steps leads up to
another level where stands a large
red shrine called the Komyn-dd, or
Hall of Resplendent Light. The
other ex-voto shed 1. contains a
large variety of interesting offer-
ings, where charms and pictui^es of
all kinds may be purchased. The
grounds constantly present the
aspect of a fair.

If time permits, a visit may be
made to the small but noted shrine
of Sakura Sogoro at Kozu-mura, 15
cho W. of Narita by jinrikisha.

In the year 1644 a band of village elders,
headed by one Sogoro, proceeded to i'edo
to protest against the tyranny of the lord
of Sakura. Even to protest was in
those days a capital offence, acquiescence
in all the mandates of his superiors being
an inferior's sole and sufficient duty. Not
Sogoro only was put to death ; his wife
was crucified with him and theii- ttiree
children decapitated before their eyes.
One, a child of seven, was butchered as he
was eating the sweetmeats thrown to him
by the compassionate spectators. This
pathetic story is graphically told in Vol
U. of Mitford's Taks of Old Joipan.

The buildings are aU the outcome
of modern piety, plain and sub-
stantial, but adorned with carvings
of some merit. Charms bearing
the name of the martyred peasant
together with pictures of him and
his wife and children sell in large
numbers. Near by on the r. is
Sogoro's grave, where incense is
kept perpetually burning.

The Shinto Temple of Kadori,
famous but not specially interest-
ing, stands to the N. E. of Narita, 1
hr. distant by train. The name of
the nearest station is Sawara.
Numerous imis crowd the entrance
to the splendid giove of trees in
which the temple stands.

This temple is d-edicated to Futsn-naahi
or Iwa-nuahi, a deified wacrior o£ the
mythical period, whose symbol is aaword.
The date of its foundation is unknown,
but may be placed a good deal earlier
than the 6th century. The present
building was erected at the beginning of
the 17th century, and restored in A.D.
1700. It is said that, as late as the begin

150

Route 6. — Miyanoshila and Hakone.

ning of the 17th century, the waters of
the Tonegawa came right up to the base
of the hill on which the temple stands,
and that all the rice-fields between it
and Tsunomiya, about 3 m. distant, have
been reclaimed since that period.

11. — Ascent of Tstjktjba-san.

Tsukuba-san, a mountain 2,925
ft. liigli, situated 40 miles to the
N.N.E. of Tokyo, and forming even
at that distance a striking feature
of the landscape, is best reached by
taking train at Ueno Station for
Tsuchiura [Inn, Matsu-ya), on the
East Coast Railway (see Route 22),
whence 4 ri by jinrikisha via Hojo
to the foot of the mountain. Hence
to the ^ill. of Tsukuba is 1 hr. walk
gphill. It should be agreed upon
beforehand with the jinrikisha-men
that they must shoulder the luggage
and act as guides as far as the inn.
The name Tsukuba is said to be com-
posed of two Chinese words meaning
" built bank ; " and the legend is that
Izanagi and Izanami constructed the
mountain as a bulwark against the waves
of the Pacific Ocean, which they had
forced to retire to the other side of
Kashima, formerly an island in the sea.
This tradition is in accordance with the
fact, recently verified by geologists, that
the E. shores of Japan have been gradually
rising during many centuries past. One
legend says that Tsukuba is a fragment
of the sacred mountain in China called
Godai-san, which broke off and flew over
to Japan. This is supposed to account
for the peculiar plants found on it. But
the fact is that no botanical species occur
liere that are not also found on other
Japanese mountains, although the in-
habitants of the vicinity, noticing the
difference between the floras of the
mountain and the plain, might naturally
be led to attribute a miraculous origin to
the former.

Saturnalia used formerly to be held
here. The following is a translation of
an extremely ancient ode : —
Where many an eagle builds her nest.
On Tsukuba's mountain-crest.
There the men and maids foregather.
And this the song they sing together :
" I your mistress mean to woo !
You may take and love mine too !
For the gods that here do throne
Ne'er this ancient use disown :
So shut your eyes but for to-day,
-Ynd find no fault howe'er we play ! "

The cleanly little vill. of Tsiiku-

ba {Inn, *Edo-ya), lies about halt-
way up the mountain. Most of
the houses command a fine view of
the plain of T5kyo, stretching away
towards Fuji. The ascent begins
immediately after leaving the vill.,
the way passing through the
grounds of a temple. From this
point to the summit of the W.
peak, called Naniai-zaa (Male
Mountain), the distance is about
50 did. This is the usual ascent,
being less steep than the jsath up
the E. and lower peak, Nyotai-zan
(Female Mountain). The summit
is dotted with numerous shrines,
of which the largest is sacred to
Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on
Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con-
sort Izanami. There is a magni-
ficent view of the T5ky6 plain, Fuji,
Asama-yama, and the Nikko range.
Pines and cryptomeiias cover the
mountain, and the rocks about
the summits are awkward to
scramble over, the assistance of an
iron chain being necessary in
some places. From the W. to the
E. peak is an interval of about ^ m.
The descent from the latter is 70
cho. It passes over and between
huge rocks, to which fanciful names
have been given, from their sup-
posed resemblance to portions of
the human body. The ascent and
descent occupy about 4 hrs.

ROUTE 6.

The Hakone Disteict : Miyano-

SHITA, HIaKONE.

1. genebal initokmation. 2. miya-
noshita and neighbotjehood.
3. hakone and neighbourhood.

1. — Genekaii Infoemation.

This route is specially recom-
mended, as uniting charm of
scenery, accessibility, and an un-

-V-fUJi AND THE

^HAKONE

f DISTRICT

f^^-

>. i Jd- \

Way to Miyanoshita.

151

usual degree of comfort. All
tourists arriving at Yokohama are
advised to devote a week to it, and
if they have not so much time at
their disposal, then to devote two
or three days to a portion of it.
Even should they be disinclined
for walking and sightseeing, they
will find no place more pleasant
for idling in at all seasons than
Miyanoshita. It offers another
advantage as a convenient starting-
point for the ascent of Fuji.

The word Hakone. it should be observed,
.though employed by us, aa by all Euro-
peans to deaoto the village called by the
Japanese Jlalonf-no-shuku, Hakone-no-ehi,
or llakone-machi, is properly the general
name of the entire mountainous district
lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu,
between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga.
For this reason the Japanese talk of
Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being " in
Hakone." The original name of Hakone
Lake (now, however, used only in poetry)
is Ashi-nn-Uiiii, that is, the Sea of Reeds.
(Compare the name of Aahi-no-yit, "the
Hot Water of the Beeds," which is really
deserved, as these springs issue from a
reedy marsh.) The lake measures, in
round numbei-s, 1^ ri long, 4j ri round,
and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its
deepest part.

The following are the heights of
the chief villages and mountains
mentioned in this route : — •

Ashinoyu 2,870 feet.

Futago-yama 3,630

Gora 2,300

Hakone 2,400

Kamiyama 4,790

Eintold-zan 4,040

Koma-ga-take 4,420

Kowaki-dani (Kojigoku) 2,100

Miyanoshita 1,400

Myojin-ga-take 3,880

Myojo-ga-take 3,080

Ojigoku 3,466

Otome-toge 3,333

Saijoji (D6ry5-san) 1,240

Ten Province Pass 3,2 IG

Yu-no-hana-zawa 3,100

2. — Miyanoshita and Neighboue-

HOOD.

Miyanoshita is easily reached
from Y^okohama by the Tokaido

Railway to Kozu station, 1^ hr. ;
thence by electric tram to Yumoto.
1 hr. ; thence by jinrikisha (at least
two men necessary) or on foot, for
1^ ri lip the valley of the Hayakawa
to Miyanoshita, nearly 1 hr. by
jiniildsha, 1\ hr. on foot, — say 4^
hrs. for the whole journey, includ-
ing stoppages. From Tokyo it is
1 hr. more, or 5| hrs. in all. The
total distance from Kozu to Yu-
moto is 10 m., and from Y''umoto
to Miyanoshita, 4 miles.

At Kozu [Inn, Kozu-kwan), it is
worth devoting a few minutes to
walking out on the beach to look at
the beautiful view of Odawara Bay,
with to the r. the peninsula of Izu
on whose coast Atami is situated,
ahead the volcano of Oshima (Vries
Island), and the islet of Enoshima
to the 1. Turning round, one has a
magnificent view of Fuji. The road
from Kozu to Y'umoto— the old
Tokaido — leads past (about 1 m.)
the Shoto-en, an inn situated on the
beach, with detached apartments
and sea bathing. It is patronised
by the higher official class.

A little further on, the broad
iSakawa-gmca is crossed, where a
cm-ious method often resorted to
for the protection of the embank-
ments of capricious rivers may be
observed. Large open crates made
of split bamboos are filled with
stones, and set in rows along the
bank. Their appearance has gained
for them the name of ja-kago,
hterally " serjient-baskets." The
half-way station on the tram line is

Odawara {Inn, Koise-ya), atown
celebrated in Japanese history as
the scene of many bloody conflicts
in feudal times.

Odawara belonged successively to vari-
ous families of Daimyos, who dwelt in
the castle which was not finally destroyed
till the time of the late revolution. The
most celebrated of these families were
the Hojo, a younger branch of the family
of "Regents," who ruled over Japan
during the 13th century and the first
three decades of the 14th. This younger
branch, selecting Odawara as their seat
in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for

152

Route G.—Miyanoshita and Halone.

five generations, namely, till 1590. when
they were defeated and the power of their
house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide-
yoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama.
Ketiring to their castle, the various com-
manding officers on the Hojo side could
come to no agreement, as time wore on,
as to whether it were better to await the
onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth
themselves and ofter battle. While they
■were still discussing this question in all
its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden
attack and captured the castle by a coup
de main. Hence the proverbial saying,
Odawara hyogi, that is, "the Odawara
Conference," which means endless talk
resulting in nothing.

The tram station stands ojiposite
the mined walls of the castle. On
leaving Odawara, the road enters
the -valley of the Uayakau-a near
the mouth of that stream, which
takes its origin in Lake Hakone.
The two round summits seen almost
constantly ahead are Futago-yama,
or the Twin Mountains. The
avenue to the r. of the tram road
marks the Tokaido. which carriages
and jinrikishas still follow. Near

Yumoto (10 min. out of the
Till.), is a cascade knoAvn as Tama-
dare no taki. A small fee is charged
for admittance. Yumoto boasts
a large inn, called Fukuzumi.
Foreigners obliged to break the
journey are, however, advised to
push on h m. further to the viU. of

Tonosawa, where the Suzuki
Hotel will be found a pleasanter
stopping place with good hot
springs. The mosaic wood-work
{kiji-mono), which from Yumoto
onwards flUs such a prominent
place in every shop-window, is the
specialty for which the whole
Hakone district is noted. The
hamlet more than half-way Tip from
Yumoto to Miyanoshita is called
Ohiradai. On the r. side is a good
wood-work shop, Watanabe, whose
specialty is the iine bamboo basket-
work of Shizuoka.

Miyanoshita (Hotel, *Fuji-ya,
in European style) is a pleasant
resort for many reasons, — the pmity
of the air, the excellence of the
hotel accommodation, the numer-

ous pretty walks both short and
long, the plentiful supply of
" chairs " and of specially large and
comfortable kagos for those who
prefer being carried, and the deli-
cious hot baths, which, containing
but faint traces of salt and soda,
may be used without medical ad-
vice. The upper portion of the
village is called Sokokura. The
principal short walks from Miyano-
shita are : — •

1. To Kigra (distance, 9 cho, say
J hr.) : — no climbing, tame fish to
feed with cakes at the favourite
" Gold-fish Tea-house." Looking
back from here, one sees the tea-
house of Mi-harashi perched high
up the steep hillside. Paths lead up
to it from the main road. Equally
flat and pleasant road 5 clto further
up the valley of the Hayakawa to
Miyagino, a vill. built on both sides
of the stream.

2. Instead of crossing the bridge
to Kiga, turn 1. up the romantic
gorge of the Jakoisu-gaica, lit.
"Stream of the Serpent's Bones,"
so called fi'om some white stones
popularly believed to be the bones
of dead serpents. There is here a.
waterfall, and the hot water which
supplies the loUage can be seen
issuing from the rocks in several
places.

3. To Dogashima, a hamlet
some few hundred yards below
Miyanoshita, down a steep raAdne.
Here are a pretty cascade and a
charming villa, permission to see
which may sometimes be obtained
through the proprietor of the
Fujiya Hotel.

4. CHmb half -May up Sengen-
yanaa, the wooded hill immediate-
ly at the back of the Japanese wing
of the Fujiya Hotel. It is a steep
pull of 25 or 30 min. to the tea-
shed, some 700 ft. above the "viUage,
whence beautiful -siew of upper
half of Fuji. This walk may be
continued along the ridge towards
Ashinoyu, but is pleasanter if taken
in the opposite direction.

Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.).

Walka at Miyanoshita.

153

less good walking, but very pictur-
esque are : —

5. To Kig-a and Miyagino, as
in No. 1 ; then cross the river and
turn sharp to the r., walking back
on the other side, and re-crossing
to the Miyanoshita side at Doga-
shima. Guide indispensable. This,
the most beautiful of all the walks
near Miyanoshita, takes a good
walker a little over 1 hr.

6. Up to Kowaki-dani (Ko-
jigoku), then down past the hamlet
of Kinoiaira to Bliyagino and Kiga,
whence back by the main road.
This walk may be abridged by
turning to the r. before reaching
Kojigoku, almost all the paths r.
leading down ultimately to the
Kiga road. Many persons elect to
stay at KowaM-dani rather than at
Miyanoshita, as the former place
is some 700 ft. higher, and con-
sequently has cooler air. The semi-
European !Mikawa-ya Hotel posses-
ses excellent baths. The 15 cho
(1 m.) from Miyanoshita to Kowaki-
dani is done on foot or in chairs.

The meaning of tbe name Kqjigoku is
" Small Hell ". It was given to the place
in allnaiou to some small sulishur springs,
which supply the hotel baths. In 1877,
on the occasion of the visit of H. M. the
Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was
officially altered to Kouaki-dani, which
means the "Valley of the Lesser Boiling."

7. To the hot spring of Gora,
through the wood leading to O-
jigoku ; returning home by the
zigzag road over the moor to
Miyagino ; under 2 hrs.

Good half-dav excirrsions are
to :— _

8. Ojigoku, or JJig Hell, alter-
natively named Oicaki-dani, i.e.,
the Valley of the Greater Boiling —
distance, a little under 2 ri to the
top of the gorge. Neither name is
a misnomer. The whole gorge
reeks with sulphtxrous fiimes, vege-
tation decreases as one ascends
higher, and the aspect of the scene
becomes weird and desolate. It is
advisable to keep to the path and
tread carefully after the guide, as

more lives than one have been
sacrificed by a false step on the
treacherous crust. The view from
the top of the gorge differs as wide-
ly in its charms from the scene of
desolation just traversed as can
well be imagined. In the centre,
Fuji .towers up in perfect beauty.
To the extreme r. is tooth-shaped
Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-toge,
the Nagao-toge, and to the 1. the
more imposing slopes of Ashi-
taka. The summit of Kamiyama,
which rises up immediately be-
hind the sulphur springs, distin-
guishes itself by its graceful out-
line and by the dense forest cover-
ing its sides. The vegetation of
this neighbourhood is remarkable,
consisting as it does chiefly of the
small box and asemi {Andromeda
japnnica).

9. UpMyojo-g'a-take, or Muko-
yama, the big gi'assy hill immediate-
ly opposite Miyanoshita, on the 1.
side of the stream. It is a walk of
1-^ hr. to the top, the path at first
leading down through the vill. of
Dogashima, there crossing the
stream, and then turning consider-
ably to the r., before turning 1.
again along the crest of the hill.
The view from the summit is
magnificent. In the centre is Fuji,
the dej)ression immediately in
front of which is the Otome-t5ge ;
then to the r. Kintoki and M3T6jin-
ga-take, behind which rise Oyama
and Tanza^a ; in the plain the
Hakawa-gawa, and behind it the
low range of Sogayama. The town
of Odawara can be seen by walking
back a few yards ; then the sea with
Oshima, and to the r. the low slope
of Ishikake-yama ; then Futago-
yama, Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama,
and Dai-ga-take. The blear spot
on Kamiyama is the solfatara of
So-un Jigokxi. Still further to the
r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka-
yama. The best time to view this
scene is at sunrise or at sunset.
The coolie should therefore carry a
lantern, either for the tii-st or for

154

Route, 6. — Miyanoshita and Hak'one.

tlie last portion of the w alk. The
descent via Miyagino and Kiga is
steeper in parts even than the
ascent. This expedition is not
recommended to people with weak
heads or duiing the heat of sum-
mer. The whole will take 82 hrs.,
including a short rest at the^ sum-
mit.

10. To the Dai, or TeiTace, on
the top of the hill leading to Saijoji
{see No. 16), 1^- hi', climb for sake
of splendid Tiew. Thence 1. along
the ridge, and down the nest de-
pression (Yagura-zawa-toge) also to
the 1., and so home, — 4 or 5 hrs.

The folloMong are longer excm--
sions, occupying the greater part
of a day : —

11. To Aslainojru and Hakone
(1 n 8 cho to Ashinoyu, thence a
little over 1 ri on to Hakone, say
5-J m. altogether). Ashinoyu {Inns,
IVIatsuzaka-ya, Europ. food and
beds ; Kinokuni-ya) is famous for
its sulphur springs, whose efficacy
in the treatment of skin diseases
and rheumatism attracts crowds of
Japanese patients and not a few
foreigners, despite the bare un-
inviting appearance of the locahty.
Ashinoyu is very cool in summer,
owing to its height, but pays for
this advantage by being fi-equently
enveloped in mist. The road thither,
about half of which is a stifE pull,
leads close by Kowaki<lani. Just
before reaching Ashinoyu, the giiide
shorJd be told to lead over a small
eminence, close to the road, known
as Benten-yama, which offers a good
view, — Odawara Bay, the peninsula
of ilisaki with Enoshima like a
Kttle knob on the coast ; and
beyond that, Tokyo Bay and the
blue outhne of the provinces of
Kazusa and Boshu, which divide
Toky5 Bay from the Pacific. The
principal mountain to the 1. is
Oyama, shaj^ed like an obtiise tri-
angle. Tiirning round, one has
Futago to the 1., Koma-ga-take
and Kamiyama to the r. Ashinoyu
itself commands no view, as it lies

in a marshy depression, though on
the top of a hUl.

[At the end of the vill., a path 1.
leads up Futago-yama,

■ Futago-yama , lit. Twin Mountain,
is a favourite designation for such
double peaks.

25 min. to the first summit of
the nearer peak ( Uica-Futago),
which presents a garden-lUce
appearance, and J hr. more to
the second summit, passing
through an ancient crater now
thickly carpeted with moss and
overgrown with bushes and
trees. The view from this second
summit is the finer, includ-
ing Lake Hakone and many of
the points enumerated on the
next page under Kamiyama. It
is possible to reach the further
peak of Futago-yama (Shita-
Pidago) ; but the labour is not
repaid, as the summit itself is
covered with trees and bushes
that shut out all view.

On a hill 8 cho, say J hr., be-
yond Ashinoyu, at a place
called Yu-no-hana-zaica, a bath-
ing establishment A\ith very
strong sulphur baths was open-
ed a few years ago. It com-
mands a fine view, similar to
that fi'om Benten-yama. This
walk, and that along the flat
in the direction of Hakone, are
the two best for invalids stay-
ing at Ashinoyu.]

After leaving Ashinoyu, the path
is at first level, and then descends
most of the way to Hakone. The
first object of interest passed is, 1.,
a set of three small stone monu-
ments dedicated to the Soga Breth-
ren and to Tora Gozen (see p. 84).
A few yards f ui'ther on, to the r.
and half-hidden among the grass
and bushes, is a block of andesite
rock well-worth pausing a moment
to inspect, as it is covered with
Buddhist images carved in relief.
These images are known as the
Ni-ju-go Bosatsu, that is, the

Way to Ashinoyu and Hakonc

151

Twenty-five Bosatsu ; (see p. 46).
The carving apparently dates only
from A.D. 1293, tliougli attributed
to Kobo Daishi.

Two or three of the images at the top
are unfinished. According to a legend
still credited by the country-folk, Kobo
Daishi had carved the other twenty -two
during a sinc;le night ; but as day broke
before the completion of his labours, the
rest perforce remained incomplete.

But the chief ciiriosity on the
road is the colossal image of Jiz5
{Eokudo no Jizd) carved in relief on
a block of andesite, and ranking
among the triumphs of the Japa-
nese chisel. Tradition has it that
the great Buddhist saint, Kobo
Daishi, carved this image also in a
single night. A festival in its
honoiir is celebrated yearly on the
'23rd August.

[Koxna-ga-take may be as-
cended by a track starting from
the depression immediately
beyond the large image of Jizo,
leading tip to the r., and fol-
lowing along the ridge. This
mountain is rather less worth
climbing than Kamiyama, as
the plateau-like nature of the
top makes it impossible to take
in the whole view from any
single spot. It has, however,
the advantage of affording the
completest \iew of Lake Hako-
ne. Time, 50 min., or say, 2^
hvs. from IVIiyanoshita.

A boulder at the top of Koma-ga-
take is the subject of a curious su-
perstition. It is bilieved that the
water contained in the hollows of
this bouldtr never runs dry . and
the peasants of the surrounding
country make pilgrimages to it in
seasons of drought, in order to ob-
tain rain by scattering the droi)s to
the four winds. But if any of the
water be taken down the mountain,
the result is a typhoon.

Koma-ga-take may also be as-
cended from a point nearer the
vill. of Ashinoyu; but the climb
is then considerably steeper.]

ITie two meres (Shoni-ga-ike and
Xazuna-(ja-ike), v. and I. on the way

between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are
the remains of ancient craters.
Shoni-ga-ike generally affords fail-
skating in the winter. The first
hamlet reached on getting to the
lake is Moto-IIakone, 15 chd this side
of Hakone itself . The Maisuzaka-
ya Inn, pleasantly situated on the
border of the lake, commands the
best view of Fuji in this neighbour-
hood.

Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita by the way one has come, it
vrill be found pleasant in warm
weather to take a boat from Hako-
ne (or from Moto-Hakone, which
shortens the expedition by one
mile) to the far-end of the lake, —
Umi-jiri, lit. '' sea-end," as it is
termed. Alighting there, we go
past the little bathing village of
Ubago. up the spur separating the
lake from Ojigoku, and return
to Miyanoshita by the Ojigoku
way, as in Walk No. 8. Those who
have done the expedition, not on
foot, but in chairs or kagos, can
take these conveyances with them
in the boat, and can be cari'ied
most of the way home from
Umijiri. It is only necessary to walk
over the dangerous portion of the
Ojigoku gorge. Instead of taking
a boat, some may jjrefer to foUow
the path along the edge of the lake.
The distances, if this extension be
adopted, are as follows :

Miyanoshita to : — 111 Chd M.

Ashinoyu .1 8 3

Moto-Hakone 23 1\

Hakone 15 1

Umijiri 1 IS 3i{

Ubago 1'2 i

Ojigoku.. « ^

Miyanoshita I 34 4if

Total 6 10 15^

12. Up Kamiyama, the central
and highest peak of the Hakone
range, the waj' — we purposely say
" way," for there is not always a
path — lying first among long grass,
and then through scrub. It is best

156

Route 6. — Miyanosliita and Hakone.

to itscend fi-om a point on the O-
jigokn road i)ast the atII. of Nino-
taixa, and to descend Tia, Yu-no-
hanazawa, whence do\\"n by a zigzag
path passing throiigh Kowaki-dani.
The ascent "«'ill take a fair ■walker
■2J hrs., the whole expedition, say, 5
hrs. Its roughness makes it unsuit-
able for ladies. An old crater is
traversed before reaching the sum-
mit. Avhich commands a gi-ander
panorama than any other in this
district. Fuji towers to the N.W.,
flanked by the snowy summits of
the Koshu mountains to the r. and
the Shinshu mountains to the 1.
Further 1. is Ashitaka-yama. then
the blue Gulf of Svn-uga with its
line of surf, and the nan'ow pine-
clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsu-
bara shutting in Shimizu Bay. Next
comes the peninsula of Izu with
the Amagi-san range, Hatsushima
near Atami, smoking Yries Island
and the smaller islands of Toshima,
Niijima, etc., forming with it and
with more distant Hachijo the
" Seven Isles of Izu ; "' Sagami Bay,
with the town of Odawara. the
liver Sakawa. Enoshima, and the
promontory of Misaki. with the
further promontory of Sunosaki in
Boshu behind ; the plain that
stretches towards Fujisawa, Oyama,
and the Tanzawa range. All the
summits of the Hakone range are
grouped in the nearer distance at
the spectator's feet. Between him
and Fuji is a ridge, the three lowest
points of which are the Otome-toge,
Nagao-toge, and Fukara-toge.
The grassy summit on the other
(southern) side is Koma-ga-take
A\ith Futago-yama behind, while
Taiko-yama and Ishikake-yama
stretch behind that again like a
long wall. Miyanoshita, too. is
visible on this side.

Taiko-ya;na, or TaJto-i/nc/ii, be It observ-
ed, takes its name from a tradition to the
effect that the Taiko Hideyoshi led his
troops along it when going to fight the
battle of Ishikake-yama. The way was
shown him — so it is alleged — by a
hunter, whom he thereupon killed, in
order to make sure that the enemv shotiM

not profit by the poor fellow's local
knowledge.

13. Up most of the way to Ashi-
noyn ; thence turning sharp 1. for
30 cho down a steep and stony but
picturesque path, which passes
through the vill. of Hata on the
old Tokaido. The first portion of
the descent is called Takizaka, or
Cascade Hill, on account of a pretty
cascade seen to the r. about two-
thirds of the way down. The
return to ilij^anoshita is made via
Yiimoto. Tonosawa. and Ohiradai,
— total distance, about 5 rl.

14. To the top of the Otome-
toge, or Maiden's Pass, distant 3
ri (7\ m.), whence can be gained the
nearest and most complete view of
Fuji and of the plain at its base.
The path is not steep, excepting
some 8 cho in the middle up a hill
called the Usui-zaka, and 11 cho stiff
climbing at the end. It is possible,
however, to ride or to be carried the
whole way in a chair. The path
leads through Miyagino, crosses
the Hayakawa. and continties up
the vaUey to the vill. of Sengoku,
noted for its cattle and horse-farm.

[From Sengoku, the ascent of
tooth-shaped Kintoki-zan
takes ] hr., the climb being
steep for a portion of the way.
One may also reach it from the
Otome-toge, but that is much
longer. The summit, which is
marked by several tiny shrines
and is clear of trees, affords a
grand viev/. The people of the
suiTOunding country-side as-
cend Kintoki-zan annually on
the 17th day of the 3rd moon,
old style, on which day the fes-
tival of I-no-hana (" the boar's
snout ") is held on the summit.
The name of the mountain is
derived from that of Kintoki,
a mighty hunter of legendary
fame.]

The chmV) up the Otome-toge
commences shortly after leaving
Sengoku. The labour it entails is
amply repaid by the view from the

Otome-toge.

157

gap forming the pass. Persons
with sufificient time will do well to
climb up the hill to the r., from
whose top are visible the snow-clad
peaks of the mountains of Koshu
and Shinshu. It is also possible to
walk 1. along the ridge to the
Nagao-toge, the first f hr. scram-
ble through difficult scrub being
rewarded by a glorious view from
the open summit of the Nagao-dai.
In this case the return is made via
the farm. — To travel out to Miyano-
shita viil the Otome-toge, is a plea-
sant alternative route for those
who intend visiting this district a
second time. Instead of alighting
at Kozu, one continues in the train
as far as Gotemba station, situated
in the plain at Fuji's base. From
Gotemba it is 2 J ri to the top of
the pass, but the first portion of
the way may be done in jinrildsha.
Gotemba is also the nearest station
for travellers coming up the Tokai-
do Railway from Kobe, bound for
Miyanoshita. But if they have
much luggage or object to walking,
they shordd go on to Kozu, whence
the facilities for proceeding to
Miyanoshita are greater.

15. To the vill. of Sengoku, as in
the preceding walk ; there cross the
liver to the thickly wooded hill of
Dai-ga-take ; then past the hot
springs of Yuba, again crossing and
re-crossing the river to Miyagiuo,
and so home. The park-like
scenery about Dai-ga-take and
Yuba differs from that of the other
walks in the neighbourhood of
Miyanoshita. Time, 2 hra. from
Sengoku, or 4 hrs. altogether.

16. To the Buddhist temple of
Saijoji, sometimes called JJoryo-
san, distant 3 ri. Though placed
last, this long expedition is perhaps
the most delightful of aU ; for it
alone includes architectural beauties
as well as beauties of nature. The
path, after passing through Kiga
and ]\Iiyagino and crossing the
Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy
plateau near the summit of Mydjin-
ga-iake, — not to be confounded with

the My5j6-ga-take of Walk No. 9.
(Though kagos go this way, horses
cannot. Eiders therefore have to
go round via Yagura-zawa, w-hich
increases the distance by about a
couple of miles.) Tell the guide
to lead to the spot called the Dai,
or Terrace, \ hr. out of the way,
to the 1., whence may best be seen
the superb view : — on the one
hand, the sea, with Vries Island,
the peninsula of Boshu, and the
nearer peninsula of Sagami, the
plain of Sagami watered by the
rivers Banyu and _Sakawa, the
mountain ranges of Oyama, Kura-
kake, Tanzawa, Sobutsu, Yagura-
dake, and luany of the mountains
of Koshu ; on the other, the wooded
heights beyond the Hakone pass
which dwarf the nearer ridge of
Takanosu ; then tiu-ning towards
the r., double-crested Futago-yama,
Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama, and the
long ridge to the W. of Hakone
which terminates in Kintoki-zan ;
and above and beyond all, the
gigantic cone of Fuji. From this
point it is a descent, Saijoji being
even lower down on the far side of
the mountain than Miyanoshita is
on the near. Before reaching it,
the open moorland of the hillside is
exchanged for a fine grove of pines
and cryptomerias, with an under-
growth of beautiful flowering
shrubs, — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja-
ponica, aucuba, etc., according to
the season.

The monastery of Saijoji, ■which belongs
to the Soto sect of Buddhists, was founded
by a hermit named Kyoan.'who died A.D.
1401; but it owes its special reputation
for sanctity to his successor Doryo, who
was supposed to be one of the numerous
incarnations of Kwannon, the Goddess of
Mercy,

To Doryd's memory is dedicated
the finest of all the shrines which
collectively constitute Saijoji. It
is called My5kwaku-d6, ami stands
at the top of a flight of steps to the
1. The links of the chain which
divides the staiicase into two parts
are often bound with scraps of
paper, on which pilgiims have

158

Roide 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone

writteu short prayers. The fan of
feathers, which forms so striking a
feature of the ornamentation, was
Doryo's crest. The winged tigiires
with large noses represent goblins
(tengu), who dwell in the moun-
tains. Do not fail to notice the
elaborate wood-carvings. Most of
the large upright stones of irregular
shape inscribed with characters in
red or gold, which are scattered
about the grounds, are memorials
of persons who have at various
times contributed towards the
repairs of the temple. So is the
hideous grey railing, by which
more recent piety has succeeded
in marring the perfect taste and
beauty of the scene. It is general-
ly most convenient to lunch at
Saijoji al fresco in one of the
retired portions of the temple
grounds. There are also several
tea-sheds some way down the
avenue beyond the temple.

Instead of returning to Miyano-
shita the way one came, it is far
better to arrange at the hotel, be-
fore starting, to have jinriMshas in
waiting at the end of the stately
avenue of cryptomerias leading
from the temple down for 28 cho
to the vill. of Sekimoto {tea-house,
Saka-ya). After the fatigues of the
walk, one can thence bowl along
merrily through the jileasant valley
of the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Oda-
wara, whence by tram to Tonosawa,
and by jinrikisha or on foot up
to Miyanoshita. The total distance
of the trip, as thus modified, is 10
ri 25 cho (26 miles) ; but the 3 ri in
jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Oda-
wara, and the possibility of doing
all the remainder of the way up to
Miyanoshita by jiniildsha, diminish
the exertion. Allow 9 lirs. for the
whole. — It is also possible to take
Saijoji on the way back from
Miyanoshita to Yokohama, by join-
ing the railway at Matsuda, the
nearest station to the temple. The
distance from the end of the ave-
nue just mentioned, is under
2 ri. From 6 to 7 hrs. should be

allowed for the whole expedition,
including a stoppage for lunch.

3. — -Hakone and Neighbourhood.

Hakone is most quickly reached
from Yokohama and Tokyo by the
Tokaido Eailway as far as Kozu,
thence by tram to Yumoto, and on
foot or in kago along the old To-
kaido up the Hakone pass via
Hata, the whole journey taking
about G hrs. from Yokohama, or 7
hrs. froiu Tokyo. The way up the
Hakone pass is picturesque, not-
withstanding recent deforestation ;
but the road is stony beyond des-
cription. Many residents prefer to
travel via Miyanoshita, Avhere they
spend the night, and then push on
next morning by Walk No. II (see
p. 154).

The respective merits of Hakone
and Miyanoshita as summer resorts
form a constant subject of debate
between the imrtisans of the two
places. Miyanoshita has the ad-
vantage of hot springs, a drier air,
easier access, and a hotel in Euro-
pean style. Hakone is cooler, be-
ing 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more
privacy, and has a picturesque lake
where one may bathe and boat and
go on water picnics. The view of
Fiiji, too, and the reflection of Fuji
in the lake (Hakone no saka-Fuji)
are gi-eat attractions. In winter
the advantage is altogether on
Miyanoshita's side. No one thinks
of staying at Hakone during that
season, whereas Miyanoshita is
equally pleasant all the year round.
Indeed, many prefer the early
winter there to the summer, as the
air is almost always clear in ■winter,
and walldng consequently more
enjoyable. The chief inn at Hako-
ne is the Hafu-ya, on the lake.
But as nearly every hoiise in the
village is to let during the summer
season, the plan usually followed
by families from Y'okohama and
the China ports is to hire a separate
residence by the month, bring their
own servants with them, and set

WaUoifrom Hakone.

159

lip housekeeping. European furni-
ture of a rough kind is generally
obtainable, as also pro\isions dur-
ing the summer season.

Some of the most enjoyable ex-
peditions from Hakone are the
same as those already described
from Miyanoshita, — for instance,
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu,
up Futago-yama, etc. The follow-
ing may also be recommended : —

1. The Temple of Gong-en, 1^ m.
The way leads along an avenue of
tine cryptomerias that lines the
Tokaido. A flight of steps will be
seen r., near which formerly stood
the old Barrier {Hakone no sekl) and
guard-house, where all travellers
were challenged and required to
show their passports. The barrier
was removed in 1871, but part of
the stone-work still remains.

Kaempfer, who passed this way ou
Sunday, the 11th iJarch, 1091, writes of
this guard-house as follows: — "We came
to the Imperial guard at the end ot the
village, where all the Japanese came out
of their yorimons and Caiigns, and those
on horseback alighted from their horses,
presenting themselves very respectfully
and bareheaded, to be search'd, which
however was done but slightly. If there
be any the least suspicion of a woman,
disguis'd in man's cloaths, they must be
more narrowly search'd, with this difler-
euco however, that in this case, they are
examin'd by women. Private persons
going up to ./^'/o, must show their Pas.s-
ports at this place, otherwise they are
kept under arrest for three days, before
they are permitted to pursue tludr
journey. "

Following along th(j avenue, wi:
soon come 1. to an Imperial Sum-
mer Palace (Biki/u), not accessible
to the public. The next jjoint in
the road is the Matsuzaka-ya inn,
commanding the best view of Fuji
to be had anywhere on the shores
of the lake. A little further on,
we pass under a stone torii, and
enter the hamlet of Moto-Hakonc.
We then turn slightly to the 1„
passing under a red torii, by the
side of which stands a wooden shed
containing two iron rice-boilers
said to have been used by Yoritomo
on his liunting expeditions. The

road here skirts the lake, soon
bringing us to a charming vista as
we ascend to the foot of the temple
steps. On the 1., just before pass-
ing through the torii, stands the
custodian's house, where Yoritomo's
sword and other relics are preserv-
ed. Also on the 1., half-way up, is
a shrine dechcated to the Soga
Brethren. The main temple is a
picturesque relic of mouldering
antiquity. The annual festival is
celebrated on the 1st August.

•2. Walk to the End of the Lake,
5 m. along the E. shore, to
Uniijiri, as the N. end of the lake is
called.

3. Along the Sukumo-gawa. —
This is a picturesque, but rather
rough walk. The stream has to be
perpetually crossed and re-crossed,,
and sometimes wading is unavoid-
able. The path finally leads out
near the aoU. of Hata, whence
home. At the beginning of the
valley, a path to the r. leads to
Yoshihama on the coast.

i. Walks in the direction of
Ataxni. — Several pleasant walks
can be taken in the direction of
the Ten Piovince Pass and Atami,
notably one ui) the slope of Okoma-
yama and over Kazakoshi-rjama, to
the highest point of the Tokaido,
where, on a Uttle plateau, the
boundary j)Ost between the provin-
ces of Sagami and Izu is placed ;
and back to Hakone by the
Tokaido. ^\^lile crossing the
plateau, there is a iine view of the
lake, the mountains surroimding
it, and Fuji beyond, with to the
south the 15ay of Suruga, the
peninsula of Izu, the towTis
dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka-
yama, the Fujikawa far away in
the distance like a streak of sUver,
and still further the long point of
Omae-zald stretching out into the
ocean. Distance about 3i m.

Of all walks in this direction,
the most delightful is that to the
Ten Province Pass(Jifcfcofcu-<(5ge).
The cUmb is for the most part easy
enough, and the panorama from

160

Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.

the summit, especially on a line day
in early winter, something never to
be forgotten. The top of the ridge,
which is marked by a stone known
as the Ten Province Stone, looks
•down on the provinc-es of Izu,
Stiruga, Totomi, Koshu, Kotsuke,
Musashi, Shimosa, Kazusa, Boshu,
and Sagami. Bays, peninsulas,
islands, mountain ranges lie
spread out in entrancing variety of
form and colour, Fuji towering up
magnificently above all the rest.
The almost artificial-looking little
promontory seen constantly to the
1. dTiring the higher portion of the
walk is called Cape Manazuru.
The distance fi-om Hakone is some-
what less than 4 n, and can be
done in 3 hrs. A steep descent of
a little over 3 m. (1 hr.) leads fi-om
the top down to Atami.

5. The Subterranean Water-
Course and the Fukara-toge. —
The Fukara Pass (a very low one)
is the most southerly of three
that lead from the end of Lake
Hakone to I'uji, the other two
being the Nagao-toge and the
Otome-toge. The first stage on
the way to all three from Hakone
is by boat nearly to the end of the
lake. Close to the spot on the
shore where the way up the
Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel
{suimon), through which a portion
of the waters of the lake is carried
to several villages on the other
side of the mountain, ser\'ing to
irrigate their rice-fields, and then
flowing on to form the falls of Sano.

This subterranean channel is said to be
entirely artificial, the local account being
that it was pierced by two brothers, who
bored through the mountain from oppo-
site sides until they met in the middle.

The walk up the pass takes only
15 min. The exit of the tunnel
{umi no ana) is some way down the
valley, say 2 hrs. from the boat
and back again.

6. The Nagrao-toge.— This lies
1 ri 7 elio from the end of the lake.
The way leads first across the
Hayakawa, the natural outlet of

the lake, which later on flows past
Miyanoshita ; then along a broad
level cinder path to the foot of
the pass, and finally by an easy
climb of 12i cho to the top. The
gap at the summit commands
a complete view of Fuji from base
to peak. On looldng back, the
eye SM'eeps across the plain of
Sengoku-hara and over the waters
of Hakone Lake. Kamiyama is
also seen to advantage, and on its
slope can be distinctly traced the
solfataras of Ojigoku. A more
extensive and beautiful \'iew is,
however, obtained by ascending
the hill to the r. of the pass, called
Hagao-Dai. From this summit,
not only Fuji, but the peninsula
of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole
of the fertile plain stretching away
to the r. of the town of Mishima,
the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the
course of the Fujikawa, the
promontory of Mio-no-Matsubara,
Kuno-zan, and the full sweep of
Suruga Bay lie at the sx^ectator's
feet. ^

ROUTE 7.
The PKNiNsuiiA of Izr.

1. ATAMI AND NEIGHBOUEHOOD.
2. TO THE HOT SPRINGS OF SHTJ-
ZENJI AND TO SHIMODA. 3. FEOM
NUMAZU TO SHIflODA AND ATAMI
BY THE COAST. 4. FEOM YUGA-
SHIMA TO ATAMI.

(Conf. map faciwj p. 151.)
1. — Atami and Neighbouehood.

Atami (Higuchi Hotel, foreign
style ; Sagami-ya, Fuji-ya, and
many others) is a favourite
winter resort of the Japanese, as
it is protected by a high range
of hiUs from the north-westerly
winds which prevail at that
season. The whole stretch of coast

Walks at Atami.

161

from Kozu on the Tokaido Bail-
way to Atami partakes more or
less of the same advantage ; and
the soft air, the orange-groves, and
the deep blue of Odawara Bay,
combine to make of this district
the Kiviera of Japan.

Atami is most easily reached
from Yokohama by rail as far as
Kozu, 1^ hr., whence by tram to
Odawara, k hr., and then by "jin-
rikisha tram " (Jinsha Tetsudo) for
the rest of the way, 4 hrs., along the
coast. JinriMshas may also be
availed of. Note that at Odawara
time and trouble are saved by
continuing on in the tram past the
tramway station to the point
where the Atami road turns off.

Itinerary by Boad.

KOZU to :— Ri Cho M.

Odawara 1 28 4^

Hayakawa 10 f

Nebukawa 1 20 3^

Enoura 1 12 3}

Yoshihama 1 32 4|-

Izu-san 2 12 5|

ATAMI 18 li

Total 9 24 23.*

The road is delightfully pictur-
esque and representatively Japa-
nese, leading first under an ancient
avenue most of the way to Oda-
wara, and thence up and down
along the coast, wdth ever-changing
views of sea and land and of Vries
Island smoking in the distance.
The little peninsula whose neck is
crossed about half-way, is called
Cape Manazuru.

Travellers approaching Atami
from the Kyoto side may finii it a
convenient saving of time to change
trains at Mishima Junction for
Daiha, and thence on foot or by
jinrildsha over the hills to Atiimi,
5 ri ; but pedestiiaus can save
at least 1 ri by short-cuts over the
springy turf of the higher portion
of the walk. During most of the
way up, a fine near view is obtained
of Fuji, with to the r. Amaf^-san

and the lower ranges of the penin-
sula of Izu.

A third way, much to be recom-
mended to good walkers, is that
from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to
Hakone (see p. 154), and thence over
the hiUs by the Ten Province Pass
(see p. 159), with its incomparable
view. The ascent is not very steep,
but the descent on the Atami side
is short and abrupt. The total
distance from IVIiyanoshita to
Atami by this way is between 6
and 7 ri ; time, 7 hrs., including
stoppages.

The curiosity for which Atami
is noted is its geyser (Oytt), which
breaks out once in every four hours
in the middle of the town. It oii-
ginaUy shot straight xip into the
air, but is now partially enclosed,
and an inhalation house (Kyulci-
ktoan) has been erected for patients
suffering from affections of the
throat and lungs, the salt in which
the steam of the geyser is rich
being beneficial in such cases. The
handsome house close behind the
Kytiki-kwan, on the other side
of the small creek which flows
through the town, belongs to His
Imperial Highness the Crown
Prince. The chief productions of
Atami are a beautifully delicate
kind of paper, called gampishi,
literally, '• wild-goose skin paper,"
— gampishi-ori, ^\•hich is a fabric
made of this paper and used for
clothing, and an excellent sweet-
meat called ame.

The walks to be recommendeti
from Atami are : — ■

1. To the grove of Kinomiya, a
iew min. distant from the hotel.
At the far end of this grove, are
some of the finest camphor-trees
{Icv.sunoki) remaining in Japan.

2. To XJomi, the hut visible
high Tip on the cliff that shuts in
Atami Bay to the S. It is a cUmb
of some 20 min.. ^vith a good view.

The name L'">iii, lit. "fish-outlook."
refers to the use to which this post of
observation is put. When a school of

162

Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.

bonitos is expected,— and ther frequently
visit the bay in enormous numbers, — a
man stands on this eminence, whence
he can see ciearly down to a great depth
in the water, and makes signs to the
fishermen below, indicating to them the
direction in which it will be best to
torn.

A walk of 25 niin. further, vqi the
crest of the hill and then down to
the I., leads to some small cascades
{Pudo no taki). A boat may also
be taken, and some caTes \-isited
at a point of the coast called
Nishiki-ura.

3. To the hot springs of Izu-san,
i 7-t. The houses are situated on
the rock below the highway, in a
manner resembling swallows' nests.

4. To the Bai-ea, or plum gar-
den. This is a level walk of about
1 mile.

5. To Tosawa, i hr. cUmb half-
way up Higane-san to a beautiful
groTe of trees. There one may tui-n
to the r., and come back by way of
the Till, of Izu-san. (This vill. is
not below the highway, as are the
hot spiings of Izu-san, mentioned
in No. 3.)

6. Past the Bai-en, and up to the
top of the Fujimi-tog-e, aifording
a magnificent view similar to that
from the Ten Province Stone, —
IJ hr. there, 1 hr. back.

7. To the little port of Ajiro,
2^ ri (6 m.), a steep but pretty
walk over the hills, returning, if
prefen-ed, by boat. The walk takes
about 2J lii-s., the return by sea
less. It will be found best to lunch
at the S'rdmizu-ya Inn, situated at
the point where the Shimoda road
branches off r. over the Taka-toge,
and having pleasant rooms over-
looking the bay. The vill. itself,
which faces N., offers no attrac-
tions.

The foIlo\s-ing are iDleasant all
day expeditions : —

8. To the islet of Hatsushima,
noted for its jonquils (suisen),
thence to Ajiro, and back by the
caves of NishiM-m-a.

9. Up Higane-san, and down a
steep narrow gorge r. from the

temple there to the secluded spa of
Yugawara {Inn, ltd) ; thence back
via Mongawa on the Odawara road.
10. By boat to Ito (Inn, Yamada-
ya at Shishido baths), 5 ri 28 cTio
by road, but shorter by water.

The cluster of hamlets, of which Wada
and Mntsubara are the biggest, are col-
lectively known as Ito, and noted for their
hot mineral waters. The other hamlets
of the group are Yukawa. Take-no-uchi,
and Arai.

A day_is required for the excur-
sion to Omuro-zan, an extinct vol-
cano resembling Fuji in shape, and
therefore often called by the
country-folk Fuji no Imoto, " Fuji's
Younger Sister," or Sengen-yama
(Sengen is an alternative name of
the Goddess of Fuji). The crater
is about 250 yds. in diameter, and
some 80 ft. deep, the bottom being
covered with scattered blocks of
lava. To the E. of this volcano
stands a smaller called Eomuro-zan.

2. — To THE Hot Speings op Shu-

ZENJT, AND OVER AmAGI-SAN TO

Shimoda.

Train from lilishima Jiinction on
the Tokaidd in 1 hr. to Shuzenji,
whence by road as follows :
SHUZENJI to :— Hi C%d M.

Yugashima 3 18 8*

Nashimoto 5 6 12^

Mitsukuri 2 11 5|

SHIMODA 2 5 5}

Total 13 6 32

For travellers from Yokohama
or up the Tokaido this is a 2 or 3
days' trip, which should be arranged
in such fashion as to sleep the first
night at Shuzenji, and the second
at Y'^ugano (see next page), whence
one can easily reach Shimoda by
noon on the third day ; or if neces-
sary, by pushing on to Yugashima
the first night, Shimoda could be
reached on the second. It is pos-
sible to take jinriMshas as far as
Yugashima, and again along the
excellently giaded road from the

Shuzevji. Way to Shimoda.

163

foot of the Konabe-toge into
Hhinioda ; but they are not always
to be depended upon in that direc-
tion. Take it altogether, the way
beyond Shnzenji is vei-y hilly, and
scarcely to be recommended except
to pedestrians, who will find it
replete with natural beauty, and be
able to sleep at a hot spring every
night. A jinrikisha road, with
tunnel through the Amagi-toge, is
expected to be finished by the end
of 1901 . The railway, too, now at
a standstill for want of funds, will
be pushed on to ShimodiX within
the next few years.

Passing from Mishima Junction
through Mishima-machi, a town
which boasts a large Shinto temple
to Oyama-tsumi, the god of moun-
tains, the line rans along a nan'ow,
well-cultivated plain, or rather
valley, bounded on the W. l)y green
hills of abrupt and fantastic shapes,
and on the E. by the long hog's-
back which shuts out Odawara
Bay. Through this valley flows
the Kano-gawa, on an affluent of
which, the Katsiu'a-gawa, stands
Shuzenji. The rocky sides of Jo-
yami, (" castle hill ") present a
striking object as seen on the r. of
Ohito station. At Ohito, basha may
be engaged for the 1 ri 8 cho of flat
road to

Shuzenji {Inns, Arai-ya, Kiku-
ya, and many others). Pleasantly
situated among low hills, this place
is much resorted to on account of
its mineral waters, some of which
contain carbonate of soda, others
traces of sulphur. In the middle
of the torrent which flows down
throxigh the village, a hot spring
rises up in a basin of rock. The
spot has been caged in, and con-
nected with the bank by a tiny
bridge, so that bathers may either
luxuriate in the high temperature of
the spring, or moderate it by means
of the cold water of the river. The
sexes bathe promiscuously. Numer-
ous other hot springs supply baths
lining the river bank, — some public.

some the private property of the
chief inns. These latter are very
pleasant and suitable for Euro-
peans.

[Those who do not wish to go
beyond Shuzenji may make a
charming little round by walk-
ing thence to Mlto on the coast,
3 ri, and then sailing or rowing
to Shim-tira, and on foot or
by jinrikisha to Xuimizu, the
whole occupying 5 or 6 hours.]
Behind the vill. of Odaira, and
visible fi-om the road, is Asahi no
taki, a cascade said to be 100 ft. in
height, and forming a series of four
or five falls. .\11 this neighbourhood
abounds in hot sjirings, those of
Seko no taki being the most notable
(8 cho off the main rotwl from
Yugashima), and picturesquely sit-
uated.

Yugashima {Inn, Ochiai-ro, at
the hot springs, about 10 min. to
the r. off the main road) is a ham-
let at the foot of the Amagi-toge.
The ascent of this pass (3 ri) is
easy, leading over open grassy hills
and the forest-clad sloj)e of one of
the spurs to the r. of Amagi-san.

Amagi-san, it should be mentioned, is
the general name given to the whole
mountain mass stretching across the pe-
ninsula of Izu from E. to W., the loftiest
summit of which is called Banjiro.
The splendid timber on this range, has
.suffered much from deforestation durin"
the last twenty-five years.

The traveller shoiild turn aside to
visit the cascade of Joren no taki,
formed by the waters of the Kano-
gawa. It is close to the main
road.
The favourite hot springs of
Yugano {Inns, Shioda.-ya, Edo-
ya) are prettily situated on the
banks of the Kawazu-gawa, some
6 cho only from the hanilet of
Jfashimoto, at the foot of the pass
on the other side. Here a road
branches off to the hot springs of
Kawazu-no-hama on the coast (1^
ri), which affords a different route
for those wishing to reach the coast
without entering Shimoda.

164

Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu.

Beyond Nashimoto the road
crosses the Konabe-toge, a climb of
18 cho, and after passing Mitsakuri,
descends a well-cultivated valley
indgated by the waters of the
Nozugawa, a stream flowing into
the harboui- of Shimoda. The
country round is beautifully diver-
sified, every hUl laid out in a
series of ten-aces planted with rice
and barley. The conspicuous cone-
shaped hill which seems, fi'om the
vill. of Koch i, to block up the mouth
of the valley, is called Shimoda
Fuji. Three cho from Kochi stands
the hamlet of Ilendaijl (Inn, Yoshi-
mura), noted for its hot springs,
which make it preferable to Shimo-
da as a stopping-place, the distance
between the two occupying only
J hr. by jiniikisha. Beyond Een-
daiji, the valley widens till it forms
an extensive ojien plain before
reaching

Shimoda (Inns, Matsumoto-ya,
Awaman-ro,) a town compactly
biult and regularly laid out. The
situation of Shimoda is such
as to command a healthy climate,
owing to the dryness of the soil
and the fi-esh sea-breezes. The
harbour, though small, is safe and
convenient. There is also an inner
anchorage for small junks and
boats, which is connected with the
Nozugawa, being artificially con-
structed by means of dykes and a
breakwater. From Shimoda is ex-
ported most of the stone employed
for the new constructions in Toky5.
It comes from extensive quarries at
Sawada, near Kawazu-no-hama,
about 3^ 7-i distant.

Shimoda was first visited in 1S54 by
Commodore Perry and the ships of the
United St;ites squadron. By the treaty
which he concluded, it was constituted an
open port for American shipping ; and
here Mr. Townsend Harris, the American
minister, resided until the substitution of
Kanagawa as a trading port in 1859. This
change was motived by an earthquake
and huge tidal wave which rendered the
harbour useless for large ships and
overwhelmed the town. The limit of the
tidal wave is marked by the spot on which
the Normal School now stands. The graves

of some Americans buried here during the
fifties are still shown at Gyokuseuji, a
temple 40 miu. walk from the town.

The easiest way to quit Shimoda
is by small steamer to Atami, call-
ing at two or three intermediate
places. The itinerary of the coast
road both to Atami and to Numazu
will be found at the end of the
next section.

3. — The Bay or Enouea. Round
THE Coast of Izu.

The Bay of Enoura affords good
sea-bathing. The accommodation,
too, in Japanese style, is excellent
at Ushibuse (Inn, Mishima-kwan),
25 min. by jiniikisha from Numa-
zu, and at Shizu-ura (Inn, Hoyo-
kwan), a little fiu-ther on in an
ancient pine-gfove by the shore.
This whole stretch of coast as far
as Mito is singularly beautiful.

It is possible to walk round
the entire peninsula of Izu by fol-
lowing the i^ath that skirts the
coast, — a journey which, though
fatiguing, is extremely pretty in a
characteristically .Taiwanese way,
and quite off the beaten track. It
is a good plan to reUeve the mono-
tony of such a lengthy walking
tour by taking boat over certain
portions of the way, especially that
between Inatoii and ltd, where the
rugged coast-hne is seen to better
advantage from the sea. Indeed,
steamers may be availed of the
whole way ; but in making plans,
it should never be forgotten that
this apparently more rapid method
of conveyance affords no punctu-
ality and but little comfort. The
path continually winds up and
down the cliffs along the sea-shore,
passing a succession of picttu'esque
nooks, bays, and islets with rocky
caves and pinnacles. Of these the
most noted is Doijashima, to ■sisit
which hire a boat at Matsttzaki.

[From the latter place there also
runs a hiUy road to Yuga-
shima, in the centre of the
l)eninsida, 8 ri.']

Boute 8. — Vries Maud.

165

The deep bay to the S. must be
crossed by ferry fi'om Ko-ura to
Mera. All along the coast from
Shimoda to Atami, the volcano of
Oshima and the smaller isles of
Izu are constantly in sight. The
usual country accommodation,
with excellent fish, is everywhere
obtainable. If the trip be made in
winter, — the month of December is
recommended, — it may be advan-
tageous to do it in the reverse
direction, in order to have the
prevailing winds in one's favom*.

The following is the

Itinerary.

NUMAZUto:— Pd Cho 31.

Enoura 1 31 4^-

Mito 2 5 5^

Tachibo 1 24 4

Heda 2 20 6^

Toi 3 — 7i

Tago 5 2 12^

MATSUZAKI... 2 18 6

Nagatsuro 5 — 12 J

SHEVIODA 4 18 11

Kawazu-no-

hama 3 20 8|

Inatori 1 29 4.^

Naramoto (near

Atagawa) 1 27 44-

Yawatano 2 27 6|

ITO{Wada) 3 10 8

TJsami 1 10 3

Ajiro 2 ■ — 5

ATAMI 2 18 G

Total 47 7 115^

The best places to stop at are
Heda, MatsuzaM, Shimoda, Atagawa
(Inn Tsuchi-ya, 8 rho from \ili.),
Ito, and Atami, there being hot
springs at most of these places.

From Atami one may reach Kozu
on the Tokaido Railway by the
itinerary (reversed) given at the
beginning of this roxite (p. 161).

4. — Feom Yugashima to Atami.

This is a pleasant day and a
half's walk from the centre of the
peninsula to the sea at Ito (Inn,
Yamada-ya), where spend the first

night, and thence along the coast
to Atami. Two passes have to be
crossed, the first — the Nagano-toge
— a climb of 40 min. immediately
on leaving Yugashima, and the
other — the Hiekawa-toge — some-
what shorter, just before descend-
ing to Ito. The coast road is also
hilly, affording charming views.
The Itinerary is as follows :

YUGASHIMA to:— Pd Cho M.

Nagano 20 ' 1^

Harabd 2 — 5

Hiekawa 1 19 3|

Ito(Wada) 2—5

ATAMI 0 28 14

Total 11 31 29

ROUTE 8.

Veies Island.

"Vries Island, called Izu no 0-
shima by the Japanese, is the largest
and most accessible of the Izu no
Shichi-to, or Seven Isles of Izu, which
stretch away for over 100 m. in
a southerly dii'ection from near the
entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. N,
Its gi-eatest length is 10 m. ; its
breadth in the broadest part, 5^ m.
It is situated 15 m. from the nearest
point of Izu, and 28 J m. from Misaki
and Sagami. The ever-smoking vol-
cano on Vries Island is sighted by
all ships bound for Y'okohama. The
names of the other six islands axe
Toshima, Niishima, Kdzushima,
Miyake, Mikura, and Hachijo.

In ancient days Eastern Japan, then
aemi-barbarous, was used as a place of
banishment for criminals expelled from
the central part of the empire, that is to say
Nara, Kyoto, and theii- enyirous, where
the Mikado held his Court. When the
mainland of E. Japan became civilised, the
islands alone continued to be used as con-
vict settlements, and they retained this
character till quite recent times. There
were exiles living on Vries as late as the

166

Route 8. — Vries Island.

end of the 18th eenturj-. On English
charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the
southernmost of the group, is sometimes
stated to be "a place of exile for the
grandees of Japan." But it is a mistake
to suppose that Hachijo was peculiar in
this respect, or that grandees were the
only class of persons transported thither.
The most noted of the many exiles to
Vries was the famous archer Tametomo,
who was banished there in 1156, and
whose jirowesa forms a favourite subject
with Japanese romance writers and artists.
The current English name of Vries Island
is derived from that of Captain Martin
Gerritsz Vries, a Dutch navigator who
discovered it in 1643. Vries Island was
noted until recent years for its peculiar
dialect, and for the retention of curious
old customs. Few remnants of these
now survive, excepting the co/J^wre of the
women and their habit of carrying loads
on the head.

Small steamers ply to Vries Island
six times monthly from Teppozu,
in Tokyo.

The best season for the trip is
early spring, the next best being
winter.

There are six "sillages on the
island, all situated on the coast,
and named respectively Motomura
(more correctly Niijima), Nomashi,
Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada.
Of these Motomiu'a is the best to
stop at, whilst Habu has the ad-
vantage of possessing a picturesque
little harbour — the submerged
crater of an ancient volcano — and
is therefore the easiest to take ship
from when departing. There are
no inns on Vries Island, excepting
a poor one at Motomura ; but ac-
commodation can be obtained at
the house of the Headman {Kocho)
of each village. There are no
vehicles of any kind, and but few
pack-horses. The distances along
the road or path connecting the
rillages are approximately as fol-
lows (the estimate is that given by
the local officials, and seems to be
a rather liberal one) : — •

Ri Cho M.

Senzu to Okada 1 — 2^

Okada to Motomura 2 ■ — 5

Motomura to Nomashi... 1 — 2 J

Nomashi to Sashikiji 3 — 7\

Sashikiji to Habu 19 H

For the most part, the road runs
at some distance from the coast,
which it only rejoins on nearing
the villages ; and there are also a
number of paths in all directions,
used by the inhabitants for bring-
ing down tire-wood fiom the hill-
sides. Usually the way lies through
a low wood of camellia, skimmia,
and other evergreens, and some-
times, as for instance between
Motomixra and Nomashi, along a
fern-clad dell. Pheasants and

woodcock are abundant.

There is no road round the E.
coast from Habu to Senzu ; but the
distance is approximately 5 ri, and
the way leads over the desolate
slope of the volcano by which the
whole centre of the island is occu-
pied.

The name of this volcano is
Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its
summit smoke perpetually issues,
and it is subject to frequent erup-
tions. The nearest point on the
coast to the summit of the moun-
tain is Nomashi, biit the ascent
may be undertaken equally well
from Motomura. The climb re-
quires from 2| to 3 hrs., and the
whole expedition, including stoj)-
l^ages, can easily be made during
a forenoon. Passing through the
\illage, the ascent, as made from
Motomura, leads for the first hour
through a wood, and then emerges
on to volcanic scorite, where no-
thing grows but small tufts of
grass and dwarf alder. The emi-
nence seen ahead to the 1. and
called Kagami-bata, is not the sum-
mit of the mountain, but only a
portion of the wall of an immense
ancient crater, in the midst of
which stands the present cone,
with its much smaller though stiQ
considerable tlimensions. From
this point it is a 5 min. Avalk to the
lip of the ancient crater, which here
forms a flat oval waste of minute
scoria?, with stones scattered about
the sm-face. Its greatest length on
this side is estimated at nearly 1
m., and it is surrounded by low

BoiUe 1). — Fuji and Neighbourhood.

167

broken hillocks of lava, against
■whose sides the sand is piled up.
Half an hour's walk across this
desolate waste, where not even a
blade of grass is to be seen, brings
Tis to the little torii marking the
Nomashi approach to the moun-
tain, and forming the limit beyond
which women are not allowed to
proceed. From this x^oint there is
a fine view. In front, and most
conspicuous of all, are the other
islands and islets of the Izu group,
the curious i^yramidal Toshima,
with Shikine and Kozu behind ; to
the 1. of Toshima the longer and
lower oiitlinc of Niijima, with little
Udoma in front. To the 1. again,
but considerably more distant, are
the larger islands of Miyake and
Mikura, while on exceptionally clear
days the outline of Hachijo— so at
least it is asserted — can be descried.
To the W. are seen Amagi-san and
other jjortions of the peninsula of
Izu, the towering cone of Fuji, with
the lesser Hakone and Oyama
ranges ; to the N. Misaki in Sagami,
and to the N.E. the outline of the
peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu, which
shuts in Tokyo Bay from the open
Pacific. The climb hence to the
top of the mountain takes \ hr.
The width of the present crater at
the summit has been estiiuated at
f m.

Mihara may also be ascended
from Habu or from Senzu, the climb
on that side of the island being,
however, much longer and more
difficult.

Excepting the ascent of the vol-
cano, there are few walks in the
island deserving of mention. The
collector of ferns will, however, find
numerous and beautiful species, not
only between Motomura and No-
mashi, but also at a place called
Bdzu-(jn-Uora, i.e., the Priest's Dell,
about 1 m. out of Habu in the
direction of Senzu. A spare day at
Habu may also be devoted to walk-
ing along the coast towards Senzu ;
but the vapom- spring situated on

the mountain-side between the two
places, of which the visitor will be
told by the natives, is at a distance
— 5 ri — which makes it difficult of
access in one day, on account of the
arduoxis nature of the gi'ound ; and
there is not even a shed in which to
take shelter. This spring is resort-
ed to in cases of wounds and
bruises, the friends of the sick
person erecting some temporary
cover. Futago-yama, the double-
crested mountain whose red hue,
caused b}"^ the presence of brittle
lava of that colour, is so conspic-
uous from Habu, is a mere spur
of the volcano offering no special
interest.

ROUTE 9.

Fuji and Neighbourhood.

1. genekal infoemation. 2. as-
cent fkom gotemba station. 3.
ascent fkom mukayama. 4. as-
cent fkom subashiei. 5. ascent
feom toshida. 6. ascent fkom
hito-ana. 7. ascent fkom suya-
ma. 8. summit of fuji. 9. cik-
cuit of fuji half-way up.

1. — Genekal Information.

Time. — Mere hurried ascent of
Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day
and night ; move comfortably in 2
days and 1 night, which latter is
spent at one of the huts on the
mountain side.

The pleasantcst plan is to com-
l)ine the ascent of Fuji with a visit
to the Miyanoshita-Hakone district,
devoting at least a week to the en-
tire trip, and climbing the moun-
tain during whichever portion of
that time seems to promise the most
settled weather. The ascent is
usually made between the loth

168

Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood.

Jialy and lOth September, the huts
to accommodate pilgrims being
closed during the rest of the year,
and the coolie giiides (goriki) fear-
ing to go up so long as any snow
remains on the path. The charge
at the huts is 1 yen per night. The
best time is from the 25th July to
the 10th August.

The shortest way of reaching Fuji
from Yokohama is to take rail as
far as Gotemba station, 3 hrs.,
where guides, horses, foreign sad-
dles, as also rough quilts and char-
coal to ward off the cold air at
night in the huts on the mountain
top, can be procured. The traveller
miast bring his own food. Instead
of staying at Gotemba and making
the ascent thence, many prefer to
push on 6J- m. by tramway to
Subashiri at the E. base of the
mountain, whence the climb is
rather easier. Travellers from the
Kobe direction might ahght either
at Iwabuchi or at Suziikawa, and
ascend from Murayama, it being 3
ri from each of those stations to
Omiya [Inn, Omiya-tei). One goes
from Iwabuchi to Omiya by jiniiM-
sha ; fi-om Suzukawa to Omiya by
tram in IJ hr., passing through the
town of Yoshiwara. There is a
short cut from Y'^oshiwara for pedes-
trians. Those coming fi-om Kofu
will naturally ascend from Yoshida.
It is also possible to ascend from
Suyama, S.E., and Hito-ana, S.W.;
but these last two have nothing
special to recommend them. Details
of the ascent from Gotemba station,
etc., are given below. Numbers of
travellers choose rather to reach
Fuji from Miyanoshita or Hakone,
by walking to Gotemba over the
Otome-t5ge (see p. 151). In this
case, they can provide themselves
beforehand with all necessaries at
the hotel. It is always ad\'isable
to take plenty of warm clothing,
as the temperatm-e falls below
freezing-point at night on the
summit of the mountain even
during the hottest period of sum-

mer. It is also piTident to take
an extra supply of food, as parties
have occasionally been detained on
the mountain side by stress of wea-
ther, unable either to reach the sum-
mit or to descend to the base. It
is possible, by sleeping at Gotemba
station or at Murayama, and start-
ing at dawn, to reach the summit
and descend again in a single day
(in local Japanese parlance hi-
yama, that is, "day-mountain").
Counting the working day as
having 15 hrs. (4 a.m. to 7 p.m.),
this would allow 10 hrs. for the
ascent, including short stoppages,
2 hrs. at the top, and 3 hrs. for the
descent. The shortest time in
which the ascent and descent have
been known to be made from
Gotemba station, including stop-
pages, is 9 hrs. 8 min., of which 6
hrs. 50 min. were occupied in the
ascent. But persons less desirous
of "breaking the record" than of
really seeing what they have come
so far to see, are strongly lurged to
pursue the following course : —
leave Gotemba station or Mura-
yama before daylight, — say at 2
A.M., — thus including the glory of
sunrise on the way up. After
sunrise, do the remainder of the
ascent slowly, reaching the summit
about midday. Having established
himself in one of the huts on
the summit, the traveller should
go down into the crater, make the
roimd of the crater, and spend the
night at the top. This will afford
the chance of a sunset and of a
second sunrise, after which the
descent can be at once begun.
The descent will take most people-
from 4^ to 5 hrs. The gi-eat ad-
vantage of this plan is that it
multiplies the chances of a good
view from the summit, — such views
being much more often obtained at
sunrise and sunset than in the
middle of the day, and being by no
means certain at any time.

Apropos of views, may be mentioned
the Japanese term Fuji-mi Jii-san-shu, that
is, the Thirteen Provinces from which-

General Information.

169

Fuji is visible. These areMusashi, BosLu,
Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi, Shimotsuke,
Kotsuke, Shinshu, Koshu, Totomi, Suru-
ga, Izu, and Sagami. "As a matter of
fact." sayn Kev. Walter Weston, in his
book on the Japanese Alps, "though it
is not generally known, Fuji can be seen,
from mountain tops, in several other pro-
vinces still further distant, e. t/., Yari-ga-
take and Tate-yama in Hida, Ena-san in
Mino, Asama-yama (not the great volcano)
in Ise, and others."

Fuji is miich more easily ascend-
ed than many mountains far in-
ferior in height, as it pi'esents no
obstacles in the shape of rocks or
undergrowth. The first 6,0n0 ft.
of the ascent can moreover be
performed on horseback, after
which the accomplishment of the
remainder is merely a question of
steady perseverance. The distance
to the summit fi'om the point call-
ed Uma-gaeshi, is unequally divided
into ten parts called go, which are
subdivided in some cases into
halves called go-shaku. The hrst
station is thus Irhi-go-me, the
second Ni-gd-me, and so on, the
last before the summit is reached
being Ku-gu-me, or the ninth.

The go is generally used as a measure of
capacity. One explanation given by the
Japanese of the application of this method
of calculation to Fuji is that the mountain
resembles in shape a heap of dry rice
poured out of a measure, and that con-
sequently its subdivisions must corres-
pond to the fractions of the latter. How-
ever this may be, the go is used as a tenth
part of the li throughout the island of
Kyushii, and traces of the same usage
linger in Shikoku.

At most of these stations, as also
at the top, are huts where accom-
modation for the night, boiled rice,
and water can be obtained.

The number of coolies required
will of course depend on the
amount of baggage to be carried.
When ladies are making the ascent,
it is ad\'isable to have a spare man
or two to pull and push them
i^p when tired. Stout gaiters may
advantageously be worn during
the descent, to prevent sand and
ashes from getting inside the boots.

Fuji, often called Fuji-san, that is
Mount Fuji, and by the poets Fvji-nn-

yama, that is the Mountain of Fuji,
whence the form Fusiyama often used by
Europeans, stands between the provinces
of Suruga and Koshu, and is the highest,
the most beautiful, and the most famous
mountain in Japan. The height of Ken-
ga-mine, the westernmost and highest
point of the crater wall, is given by the
Cieological Survey at 12,;395 ft.

Though now quiescent, Fuji must still
be accounted a volcano. Frequent men-
tion is made in Japanese literature of the
smoke of Fuji, which, if the expressions
used by poets may be taken as indicating
facts, must have formed a constant
feature in the landscape at least as late as
the lith century. An author who flou-
rished about the end of the 9th century
says : "There is a level space at the sum-
mit, about 1 ri square, having a depres-
sion in the centre shaped like a cauldron,
at the bottom of which is a pond. This
cauldron is usually filled with vapour
of a pure green (or blue) colour, and the
bottom appears like boiling water. The
steam is visible at a great distance from
the mountain." In 967 a small mountain
was formed at the eastern base of Fuji.
This was probably the small hump called
Ko-Fuji, on the 1. of the second station
on the Gotemba ascent. A traveller's
journal of the year 1021 speaks of smoke
rising from the slightly flattened summit,
while at night fire was seen to issue from
the crater. Eruptions also occurred in
1082 and 1C19. The most recent one
began on the 10th December, 1707, and
lasted with intervals till the 22nd
January, 1708. This being the peiiod
known in Japanese chronology as llbd,
the name of Honi-zan was given to the
hump then formed on the upper slope of
the S. side of the mountain. According
to another account, a isrojectiou had
always existed in this place, but was
rendered more conspicuous by this latest
eruption. Be this as it may, it is recorded
that the ashes lay 0 ft. deep on the
Tokaido near Hara and loshiwara, and
even fell in Yedo to a depth of C inches.
Even at the present day, small quantities
of steam continue to issue through the
ashes on the E. or Subashiri side of the
mountain, just outside the lij) of the
crater.

Enormous must have been the torrents
of lava that have flowed from Fuji on
different occasions. Fifteen miles from
the summit in a direct line, at the vill.
of Matsuno on the r. bank of the Fuji-
kawa, is the termination of one of these
streams, while another may be studied
on the N.E. side of the base, between
Yoshida and Fuuatsu. But most of the
lava has long since been covered up by
the deep deposits of ashes and scoriae,
and only becomes visible here and there
where it is denuded by the streams
which fuiTow the lower part of the
mountain.

170

Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood,

An effort was made by a bold meteoro-
logist, Mr. Nonaka. to spend the winter of
1895-6 on the top. His friends, fearing
the result, sent up a relief party before
Christmas, which found him and his
courageous wife in such terrible plight
that they had to be carried down, and
their lives were despaired of for a time.

Fuji ranks high among the many sacred
mountains in Japan, and is crowded with
pilgrims duriug the brief summer season,
who repair to the summit to worship, and
to purchase charms sold by the priests.
Most of these pilgrims belong to the pea-
sant class. In former years, women were
debarred from ascending to the top of all
these sacred peaks. On Fuji the eighth
station was their furthest limit. This pro-
hibition no longer applies here, though it
has been re-introduced in some localities.
The aspect of Fuji has so impressed the
national mind that many other hills of
like shape derive their uame from it.
Thus we have the Bungo Fuji, Tsugaru
Fuji, etc. The greatest distance at which
Fuji has been seen at sea by the compilers
is 108 miles.

Fuji stands by itseli:, rising with
one majestic sweep from a plain
almost smTounclecl by mountains.
The S. side slopes right down to
the sea, its outline being broken
only on the S. E. by the rugged
peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the N.
and W. rise steep granite ranges,
stretching away from the Misaka-
toge nearly to the junction of the
Shibakawa with the Fujikawa.
Against these mountains the show-
ers of ashes which were ejected
from the crater have piled them-
selves up, and confined in their
separate basins the waters of
Motosu, Shoji, and other lakes.
The E. side is shut in by volcanic
mountains of undetermined origin,
beginning near Subashiri, and ex-
tending southwards into the
peninsula of Izu. Among them
lies Lake Hakone, with the nu-
merous hot springs of Miyanoshita,
Ashinoyu, Atami, and their neigh-
bourhood. The base of the
mountain is cultivated up to a
height of about 1,500 ft., above
wliich spreads a wide gi-assy moor-
land (suso-no) to 4,000 ft., where
the forest commences. The upper
limit of this varies considerably,
being lowest on the E. side, name-

ly, about 5,500 ft. on the ascent
from Gotemba, and 7,900 ft. on the
Murayama side. But on the W.
face, between the Yoshida and
Murayama ascents, and looking
down over the plain round Hito-
ana, it must extend as high as
9,000 ft. or more. This difference
is no doubt due in a great measure
to the comparatively recent distur-
bance on the S. E. side, which
caused the present conformation
of Hoei-zan, when the greater part
of the ashes thrown out fell in the
direction of Gotemba, destroying
the forest, and leaving a desert
waste which only a long lapse of
years can again cover with vegeta-
tion. To the same cause, namely,
comparatively recent volcanic ac-
tion, must be ascribed the almost
entire absence of those Alpine
plants which abound on the sum-
mits of other high mountains in
Japan, such as Ontake, Shirane in
Koshti, and Yatsu-ga-take. Above
the forest lies a narrow zone of
bushes, chiefly dwarf larch. A few
species of hardy plants are found
up to a height of 10,000 ft. on some
parts of the cone.

2. — Ascent fkom Gotemba
Station.

Gotemba Station {Inn, Fuji-
ya) is 12 cho from the old vill.
of Gotemba ; and there is no longer
any necessity for going to the latter
and thence on to Subashiri, as was
the general practice in pre-railway
times, there being now a threct and
shorter way up the mountain from
the station by what is called the
Nakabata route, avoiding both
those villages. If the traveller in-
tends to spend the night at Gotem-
ba station, he should try to arrive
early, so as to avoid difficulty in
obtaining accommodation at the
inn. In order to economise one's
strength, it is advisable to take
horses for the first 2J hrs. of the
ascent across an open and gently
rising country. This takes one be-

AsceiH froui Gotemba, Murcojama, and Subashiri. 171

yond Uma-fiaeshi* where horses
are supposed to be left, to Tarobo,
where they are generally left.
Indeed, there is no difficulty in
riding as far as No. 2 station. The
distances of this first part of the
ascent are given as follows : —

GOTEMBAto: Hi Chd M.

Nakabata 1 8 3f

Uma-gaeshi 2 — 5

Tar6b5 28 2

No. 2 station (45 min.) — —

Total 4 — Klf

The ordinary basha is also avail-
able as far as a tea-shed called
Ichi-ri-matsu, 2 ri from Gotemba,
and, if required, will await one's
return at Uma-gaeshi.

At Tarobo (so called from a
goblin who is there worshipped),
staves are sold to help climbers on
their way up. These staves are
engi-aved with the name of the
moimtain, and can have a further
inscription added by the priests
who dwell at the summit.

Though Fuji, as already stated,
is theoretically divided on all its
sides into ten parts, some of the
stations no longer exist in practice,
— that is, have no rest-huts, — while
others are subdivided. On the
Gotemba ascent, Nos. 5, 6, 8, and
top are the best. This should be
borne in mind, in case of the
necessity of calling a halt for the
night midway.

The heights of the chief stations
are as follows : —

No.

7,085 ft

7,937 „

8,659 „

9,317 ,.

10,693 „

From No. 3 to 5 the path sldrts
Hoei-zan, where the steep portion
of the ascent begins. The first lava

* Uma-gaeshi, lit. " horse send back." is
the general name for that point on a
mountain beyond which it is not custom-
ary to ride.

crops out after No. 5, affording
better foothold. At No. 6, a path
turns off to Hoei-zan. Above No.
8 the climb becomes more fatiguing,
being now over loose cinders. From
here, too, patches of snow will be
found in rifts in the lava rock ; but
there are nowhere any actual snow-
fields to be traversed. At No. 10—
the top — there are three stone huts,
fairly roomy and comfortable.
Should they all be occupied by
pUgrims, the traveller must walk
round to the huts on the Subashiri
side of the lip of the crater, about
J m. distant.

The descent as far as No. 7 is
the same as the ascent. At No. 7,
it diverges to the r. down a kind of
glissade (Jap. hasldri) of loose sand,
over which one may skim at sitch a
rate as to reach No. 2^- in less than
1 hr. From Tardbo onwards, the
descent will occupy nearly as much
time as was required for the as-
cent. The entire journey down
from the summit to Gotemba sta-
tion can be accomjiLished in 5 hrs.

3. — ^x\sCENT FEOM MuKAYAMA.

From Murayama (Tnn, by Fuji-
masa) to the Uma-gaeshi, or riding
limit on this side of the mountain,
is a distance of 3 ri 8 chd. Thence
onward it is necessary to walk. Of
the varioiTs stations. No. 5 is the
most to be recommended, though
all are fair, the ascent from Mura-
yama having long been that most
l^atronised by the native pilgrims,
and therefore styled the Omote-
guchi, or Front Entrance, to the
mountain. This ascent has the
advantage of offering more shade
than the others. Some experienced
climbers therefore recommend go-
ing up this way, and returning on
the steeper Gotemba side.

4.— Ascent from Subashiri.

At Subashiri, the inn to which
foreigners are generally taken is
Yoneyama ; there are others.

172

Route 9. —Fuji and Neighbourhood.

all indifferent. The road to the
Uma-gaeshi on this side leads for 2
ri up through the forest, whence it
is another 2 ri to a place caUed
Chujiki-ba, where a halt for refresh-
ments is generally made. This is
8 chd below station No. 1. The
best stations are 2, 6, and especially
No. 8 and the top. At No. 9 is a
small shrine known as Mukai
Sengen, that is, the Goddess of
Fuji's Welcome, intimating to the
weary wayfarer that he is approach-
ing the goddess's sanctum.

5. — Ascent fkom Yoshida.

Yosliida is an lanusually long
YUlage, divided into an upper por-
tion (Kami-Yoshida) and a lower
portion (Shimo-Yoshida). From
Kami Yoshida {Lins, Osakabe, Ko-
giku) the way to Uma-gaeshi, the
2nd station, as far as which it is
possible to ride, leads iip an avenue.
The upper edge of the forest is not
quitted till No. 5 is reached. Thus
the view on the way up is less good
by this route than on the Gotemba
side, but there is more shade.

6. — Ascent fbom Hito-ana.

The ascent from Hito-ana (poor
inn) is laborious, and the -siew
much spoilt by the dense forest
through which the track lies. It
is therefore not recommended.
Travellers wishing to visit the
beautiful waterfalls of Kami-Ide
(see Eoute 10) might, however, find
it worth their while to descend on
this side. If their luggage is light,
they can take it with them over the
mountain. If not, they must allow
plenty of time for sending it round
the base.

7. — Ascent fkom Suyama.

This is an alternative way for
persons staying at Hakone, who
can reach Suyama via the Lake
and the Fiiliara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs.
CooUes for the whole trip, includ-
ing the ascent of Fuji, shoiald be

engaged at Hakone, as the re-
sources of Suyama are limited,
though there is a tea-house (Wa-
tanabe Hideo). But the ascent
from Gotemba is to be preferred.
The path iip Fuji from Suyama
joins the path up from Gotemba at
station No. 3.

8. — Summit of Fuji.

The Summit of the mountain
consists of a series of peaks sur-
rountling the crater, the diameter
of which is not far short of 2,000 ft.
The descent into it, down the loose
talus of rock and cinders close to
the huts at the top of the Mura-
yama ascent, is qiiite easy ; still it
is advisable to take a guide. The
bottom is reached in 20 min. The
floor, which is formed of cinders,
inclines sUghtly from W. to E., and
is intersected by small stream-beds,
which at the E. end terminate
among the loosely piled lava masses
forming the core of the mountain.
All round, except where the descent
is made, rise precipitous rocky
walls, fi'om which large pieces
detach themselves from time to
time with a loud cracking sound
like musketry. On the W. side,
immediately under Ken-ga-mine,
there is iisually a large snow-slope.
The depth of the crater has been
variously calculated at 416 ft., 548
ft., and 584 ft. The return to the
edge will take about 25 min.

Before dawn the pilgrims betake
themselves to Kpn-ga-inine, to await
the sun's rising. As it approaches
the horizon and all the clouds
aboiit it glow with the most bril-
liant hues, the feeling of longing
expectation seems almost to over-
come them ; but as soon as the
orb appears, they greet it devoutly
with muttered prayers and the
rubbing of rosaries.

Ken-ga-mine commands a mar-
vellously extensive view. To the
S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga,
shut in on the E. by the lofty
peninsula of Izu, and confined on

Summit of Fuji.

173

the W. by Mio-no-Matsubara at the
end of the long range dividing the
valley of the Abekawa from that
of the Fujikawa. S. W. is the
broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa,
its course above the point where it
crosses the Tokaido being hidden
by the lower hills. Westwards are
seen all the lofty peaks of the
border range of Koshu and Shin-
shu, beginning with the angular
granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take
and its lesser neighbours, Jiz5 and
H5-o-zan, then the three summits
of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai-
no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga-
take of Shinshu rising between the
Tenryu-gawa and the Kisogawa,
and so on to Ena-san in Mino and
the top of Shichimen-zan near
Minobu. Further to the r., ex-
tending northwards, comes the
great range dividing far-off Hida
from Shinshu, amongst whose
peaks may be distinguished Nori-
kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further
remote in Etchu, the volcanic
summits of Tateyama. Gradually
moving E. again, along the north-
ern horizon, we distinguish the
mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no-
mine and the extinct volcano of
Myoko-zan. Nearer in the fore-
ground rise the numerous sum-
mits of Yatsu-ga-take ; and then
glancing further N., we perceive
Asama-yama's smoking crater, the
mountains about the Mikuni Pass,
and next, all the Nikko mountains,
— Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser
peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen
Kimpu-zan, easily known by its
rounded shoulder and the pillar of
rock at the summit ; then Yakushi
and Mitsumine in Chichibu, till
the eye loses itself in a confusion of
lower ridges. On the E. side of the
crater, from almost any point that
may be chosen, the eye rests on a
prospect less extensive indeed, but
surpassing this in beauty. Far
away across the plain, is distinctly
visible the double top of Tsukuba in
Hitachi, while further S. we descry
the outer edge of the T6ky5 plain,

with T6ky5 lying far up the bay ;
then in succession Capes Sagami
and Svmosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf
of Sagami, and nearer in the fore-
ground beautiful Lake Hakone
peacefully embosomed among green
hiUs.

Few will be fortunate enough to
obtain a perfectly clear view from
the summit of Fuji ; but the best
chances are just before and at sun-
rise. "Nor," says an authority,
" will the pilgrim be wholly fortu-
nate unless he sees the superb cloud
effects which the mountain affords.
These are most likely to be enjoyed
in ordinary summer weather, be-
tween noon and 6 o'clock in the
evening, and they are truly magni-
ficent. The summit of the moun-
tain remains clear, but its shoulders
and waist are suiTounded by billowy
masses of dense white vapour of
indescribable splendour. Here and
there a momentary break may per-
mit a glimpse of the earth beneath ;
but usually nothing can be seen
landward but this vast ocean of
cloud, amid which the peak stands
as the only island in the world.
Turning seaward, the ocean itself
can be seen over the circumambient
vapour, and affords a striking con-
trast to the turmoil and restless
change of form of the clouds them-
selves."

A curious phenomenon may also
sometimes be witnessed at sunrise
or sunset. As the sun's rays ajjpear
above the horizon, or vanish below
it, the shadow of Fuji (kage-Fuji)
is thrown in deep outline on
the clouds and mist, which at that
hour clothe the range of mountains
to the west. The beautiful pheno-
menon commonly known as " the
Spectre of the Brocken," may be
seen from the lip of the crater at
sunrise or sunset under favourable
conditions of mist. The spectator
beholds his enormously magnified
and transfigured self, — his head the
centre of a circular bow or halo,
with the prismatic colours in con-
centric rings.

174

Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood.

Descending again from Ken-ga-
mine, the path passes vinder it, and
just above the steep talus called
Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (*' Heedless
of Parent or Child"), from the
notion that people in danger of
falling over the edge of the crater
would not heed even their nearest
relatives if sharers of the peril.
The name occurs in similarly peri-
lous places in manj" parts of Japan.
Continuing N., the path skirts the
edge of the cone, passing a hiige
and precipitous gorge which ap-
pears to extend downwards to the
very base of the _mountain. This
gorge is called Osaim, the lower
limit of which may be some (i,()00 ft.
iibove the sea, or only half-way from
the summit. Passing across the
flank of the liai-uca, or Thunder
Rock, the imth goes outside the cra-
ter wall, ascends the Shalca no
Wari-ishi (Shaka's Cleft Rock), and
leaving Shaka-ga-take — the second
loftiest peak^ — behind, descends to
the Kimmei-sui ("Famous Golden
Water "), a spring of ice-cold water
situated on the Aat shelf between
the N. edge of the crater and the
outer wall. Ascending again, the
path passes the row of huts at the
top of the ascent from Yoshida
and Subashiri, and reaches a
iorii commanding the best view
of the crater. It then turns again
to the 1., and goes outside the wall
of the crater, underneath Kwan-
nou-(j(i-take. Here the interesting
phenomenon may be observed of
steam still issuing from the soil in
several places, one of which is
close to the path, while another
lies near at hand on the 1., about
5U ft. down the exterior of the
cone, and a third is seen imme-
diately underneath a wall of rock
50 yds. ahead. A few inches l>elow
the surface, the heat is great
enough to boil an egg. Beyond this
point, the path crosses a dej)ression
known as Seishi-ga-kubo, ascends
E. the Sai-no-kawara, dotted with
stone cairns raised in honour of
Jizo, descends to the Gim-mei-sid.

(" Famous Silver Water "), at the top
of the Gotemba ascent, and pass-
ing under the low peak named
Koma-ga-take, reaches the huts at
the top of the path from Mura-
yama. Between this last point and
Ken-ga-mine, is a small crater
named Konnshiro-ya-ike, accessible
from the N. The total distance
round the large crater is said by the
Japanese to be 1 ri, or 2^ miles ;
but this is doubtless an exaggera-
tion. An interesting hour may be
devoted to making the circuit,
which will allow for pauses at all
the best points of view.

9. — The Chudo-Meguei, ok Cir-
cuit OF Fuji half-way up.

This wallv is a favourite with
native lovers of the picturesque.
It is easy, involves no danger, and
commands a splendid panoramic
view over the country in the im-
mediate vicinity, which gradually
unfolds itself before the eyes of the
spectator as he moves along. The
path encircles Fuji at heights vary-
ing from 9,490 ft. on the Gotemba
side (which it intersects at station
No. 6) to 7,450 ft. on the Yoshida
side. It is best to turn to the 1. on
starting from the above-mentioned
No. 6 station, because the path
descends a rapid slope of loose sand
from the ridge of Hoei-zan towards
the W., which would be very fatigu-
ing if taken in the ojjposite direc-
tion. The path proceeds along the
narrow ridge of Hoei-zan, turns
down into the deep hollow formed
by the eruption of 1707-8, crosses
the ridge at its further side to a
broad plateau strewn witli the
cast-off sandals of pilgnms, and
climbs steeply to hut No. 5 on the
Murayama ascent. It then con-
tinues W. over dykes_of lava until
it reaches the great Osawa ravine,
and, descending the mountain to
the 1. of the huge mass of lava
which here projects over the
chasm, passes through a wood of
larch and rhododendron to the S.

Route 10. —Base of Fuji to Shoji and Kami-Ide. 175

edge of the ravine, which is now
crossed. The path onward lies
alternately through the wood and
over the bare northern side of the
cone to the prettily situated temple
of Ko-Mitake, where a tea-shed
affords accommodation for the
night. Shortly beyond this jioint
the path divides, the r. branch,
which should be taken, leading to
No. 5^ on the Yoshida ascent,
whence Lake Yamanaka is well
seen almost due E. Turning off
1. at No. 6, the path winds over
the lava dykes to No. 5 on the
Subashiri ascent, and then by a
gentle gradient back to our start-
ing-point. The time required for
the entire circuit is from 7 to 8 lirs.

ROUTE 10.

KoTJNi) THE Ease of Fuji to Lake

Shoji and the "VVatebfalls of

Kami-Ide. Ashitaka-yama.

Itinerary.

GOTEMBAto:— Bi Cho

Kubashiri 2 23

Yamanaka (Nakano) 2 7

Kami-Yoshida 2 8

Funatsu 1 3

Nagahama (1^ hr.

by boat across

Lake Kawaguchi)

Nishi-no-umi 12

Nemba (1 hr. by

boat across Lake

Nishi-no-umi, 2

men necessary)
SHOJI Hotel (I hr.

by boat) or on

foot round Lake 1 —

Motosu 1 7

Nebara 1 4

Hito-ana 2 4

Kami-Ide 1 8

3
3

<^niiya :j g 7*

Suzukawa 3 71

Total 21 12 52}

Plus 2.J> hrs. by boatT

[An alternative way from Goteni-
ba to Shoji, avoiding the Lakes,
leads lia Narusaim. through
the forest, 13 ri in all ; but it
is less pretty, and more of it
must be M^alked.]

There is a tramway from Gotem-
ba to Subashiri, which is to be
extended on to Kami-Yo.shida (Inns,
Osakabe, Kogilvu). One may partly
avail oneself of it and partly walk,
or else take horses the whole way!
Yoshida can be reached the lirst
night, even if the start be made
from Miyanoshita. Shoji is an
easy half-day from Yoshida of
alternate walking and boating.
From Shoji it is necessary eitber to
ride or to walk as far as Omiya,
whence a shabby but swift little
tram-car takes one to Suzukaica,
a station on the Tokaido Eailway!
From Yoshida onwards coolies
form the best means of transport,
as they can be taken in the boat.'
There is a modest in>i_at Kami-Ide,
and a fair one (Omiya-tei) at
Omiya. The whole trip is highly
picturesque, leading, as it does,
along the chain of lakes that half
encircles Fuji's base. The Foreign
Hotel on the little jseninsula of
UnosaM at Shoji is beautifully
situated on the S. side of the lake
(3,160 ft. above sea-level), opposite
the village. The i)lace offers plea-
sant bathing, and an endless variety
of walks amidst unrivalleii scenery.
The most interesting half-day's
expedition from Shoji is to a re-
markable Ice Cave (Kori-no-ana),
which long lay hidden in the dense
forest growth on Fuji's slope at a
height of 3,750 ft. The dimensions
are as follows : —

Length 568feet

.\verage A\-idth ... 36 J „
Height 32 .,

176 Boute 11. — CI I ich ibu and Temple of 3Iiisumine.

The floor is solid ice of ixnknown
thickness. At the far end are a
nnraber of beautiful icicles, and an
unexplored canity down which
the wind constantly rushes. Two
smaller ice eaves exist in the
neighboiu'hood, besides another
cave in which lived and died a
succession of hermits in the olden
time. In this connection it may be
added that Lake Shoji freezes hard
enough in winter for horses to
cross it.

[It is a good day's walk (about
7h ri) from Shoji to Kofu over
the Onna-toge and Kashiwa-
zaka-toge. — More beautiful is
that from Shoji to Yoka-ichiba
(Inn, Wakao-ya), 6 or 8 ri, ac-
cording as one takes the lower
path down the valley of the
Nekko-gawa, or the higher
along the mountain ridge. In
either case one drops down the
Fujikawa a short way by ferry-
boat from Tambara or Kamo-
kari to Yoka-ichiba on the
ojDposite bank.]
Emerging from the forest, and
skirting charming Lake Motosu,
we come out on the open moor
which occupies the whole western
slope of Fuji. The cave of Hito-ana
is hardly worth ttu'ning aside to
see. Very different are the water-
falls of Shira-ito no taki, a lovely
sight at nil seasons ; for even Nikko
has nothing Hke them, as they are
precipitated over a wall of black
lava amidst luxuriant vegetation.
They lie 8 cho from the \'ill. of
Kami-Ide. The two largest, some
85 ft. in height, are called respec-
tively 0-daki and Me-daki, or the
Male and Female Cascades, and
there are more than forty smaller
falls, their children. A few yards
off is another fine cascade, about
100 ft. high and 30 ft. -nide, called
Nen-nen-fuchi j and there are said
to be others yet higher up the
stream. _

On the tram journey from (.)miya
to Suzukawa some large paper fac-
tories, which employ British and

American machinery, are passed at
Iriyamase and Temma.

Suzukawa (see Eoute 23).

Many prefer to make a wider
circuit by taking the beautifiol walk
from Shoji to Yoka-ichiba above
mentioned, whence down the rapids
of the Fujikawa (5 yen for private
boat to Iwabuchi), stopping over
perhaps a day at the temples of
Minobu (see Route 27).

A pedestrian desirous of complet-
ing the circiut of Fuji literally might
ascend Ashitaka-yama from
Hara on the Tokaido Railway ; but
the inn there is poor. The inns at
Numazu are good, and the expedi-
tion thence not much longer,
namely, a short day, — the first hour
Tip as far as Sakashita by jinrikisha
with 2 men, whence on foot to the
summit, which affords a beautiful
and extensive view. The descent
to Suyama for Gotemba entails too
much struggling through tall bam-
boo gi'ass to be recommended.

Ashitaka-yama, 3,950 ft., looks higher
owing to its remarkable shape, — two peaks
joined saddle-wise. Down to the 17th
century wild horses herded on its grassy,
partly forest-covered slope ; and the peas-
antry still believe that bamboo grass
gathered on its summit will cute all the
diseases to which the horse is heir. A
pilgrimage is made to the ruined Shinto
shrine at the top on the 17th January.
The 8th April is a second festival day.

ROUTE 11.

Chichibit and the Tempi,e of

MiTSUMINE.

The district of Chichibu lies in
the W. corner of the province of
Musashi, separated by its moun-
tains from Kotsuke on the N. W.
and Koshii on the S. W. The prin-
cipal town, Omiya (not to be con-
founded with the railway station of
the same name nearer Tokyo), is
most easily reached fi'om Honjo

Temple of Mitsumine.

177

station on the Tokyo-Takasald Kail-
way, basha traversing the distance —
9 ri — in 4^ hrs. After leaving the
plain, the road enters the lesser
hills of the Chichibn range, and the
scenery continues to improve. Nar-
row valleys leading up to various
low passes are entered, where moun-
tain, rock, forest, and river give a
charm to the scene.

Omiya (In7i, Kado-ya) stands
close to Buko-zan, 4,360 ft., the
highest mountain in the district ;
but there is little inducement to
climb it, as the forest with which
it is clothed shuts out almost all
view. The town is noted for its
fairs, which are largely attended
during the season by dealers in raw
sUk and cocoons.

At the hamlet of Kageinori, 20 rho
S. W. of Omiya, a jjath turns off 1.,
leading in ^ hr. to a temple of
Kwannon called IlasJddate-dera,
where is a cave considered the
wonder of the country-side. It
consists of two chief ramifications
in the limestone rock. Inspection,
which will occupy about J hr., is
rendered easy by means of ladders
and planks. The stalactites in the
cave assiime a variety of fantastic
shapes, to which names mostly con-
nected with Buddhism are given,
such as the Lotus-flower, the
Dragon's Head and Tail, the Five
Viscera, etc. A guide is provided
at the temple.

Interesting alike for its beautiful
surroundings and its antiquity is
the temple on Mitsuraine-san, a
mountain 6 ri to the S.W. of Omiya.
A good JLnrDdsha road takes one as
far as the vill. of Niegawa, 3h ri ; the
remainder must be walked. The
cave described above may be visited
on the way by making a slight
detour (say | hr.), that is, by leaving
the road at Kagomori, and rejoining
it again a few cho further on, close
to the bridge called Fuji-bashi over
the Arakawa, up the course of which
river most of the road lies. ^1^-
gawa (fair accommodation) com-
mands a fine view, with Biiko-zan

standing sentinel-like at the mouth
of the valley. Thence the scenery
becomes grander ; the path keeps
along the 1. bank, rising frequently
to cross the spurs of the hills, and
the river winds picturesquely
among thickly wooded slopes rising
on either hand to a height of about
1,000 ft. A remarkable projecting
rock has been cut through at a
spot called Odahara, shortly after
which the path diverges down to a
narrow bridge spanning the liver.
On the opposite side stands a torii
at the entrance to the sacred moun-
tain. An avenue of ancient crypto-
merias marks the remainder of the
way through the thick forest, — a
steep climb of 52 cho, with rest-
houses at intervals, but no distant
view except one down the valley of
the Arakawa.

The temple buildings, which are
numerous, stand in a gi'ove of lofty
champecyparis trees, close by the
upper torii at a height of 3,000 ft.
above the sea.

Tlie foundation of this temple ia refer-
red to the legendary epoch. Yajnato-take
(seep. 87, on his expedition to subdue
Eastern Japan, is said to have passed this
way, and to have caused a shriur to be
built here for the worship of the Shinto
gods Izanagi and Izanami. The name of
Mitsumineno-miya is alleged to have
been bestowed upon it by his father the
Emperor Keiko a year later, from the
three contiguous peaks, — Kuniotori, Shi-
roiwa, and Myoho, on the latter of which
the temple stands. It is a far cry down
to the ninth year of 'r<>mpei (A.D. 7.37),
when the reigning Empress placed an
image of the Buddhist soddess Kwannon
within the grounds. In IS;;:! Mitsumine
became the seat of tlie Seigo-iu branch of
the Tendai sect. Finally, the rehabilita-
tion of Shinto in our own day has again
brought it, after the lapse of many cen-
turies, within the fold of the native re-
ligion. Two festivals are held annually,
on the 8th April and 2nd December.

Some noble cryjitomerias guard
the approach to the main temple, in
front of which the huge wooden lan-
tern r. and the building over the
holy-water cistern 1. are a luass of
carvings of Chinese figures, and
bii'ds and beasts. No less meri-
torious, though more weather-

178

Route 12. — The Takasahi-Karuizan-a Kaihvay.

beaten, are the carvings on the ex-
terior of the temple itself. The in-
terior has been deprived of its ela-
borate Buddhist furniture, to make
way for the simple requirements of
Shinto, — di-un^s and mirrors. The
shrine on the r. is dedicated to
Yamato-take. that on the 1. to
Kunitoko-tachi, while there are
numerous subsidiary shrines to
lesser deities. The quadrangular
building further 1. serves for the
accommodation of pilgrims. The
foreign traveller who presents a
suitable gift of money [kifu-kin)
on arrival, will be made quite com-
fortable and fed on the best vege-
tarian food procurable in so remote
a six)t. Beyond this again stand
the temple-offices, the jiriests'
dwellings, etc. One of these latter
—the Daisho-in — deserves inspec-
tion for the sake of its brightly
painted fusuma of Chinese scenes
on a gold ground by Bokkei. The
temple treasiwes, presers'ed in a
godown, include the old Buddhist
turniture and images, lacquer and
other utensils, kakemonos, mostly
of Buddliist subjects, some of
which are of great age, and a few
screens by Matahei, Kan5 Sesshin,
and other artists. The Okusha lies
30 chn higher up the mountain, but
affords Uttle \iew.

On the return journey the Aisitor
should take the Ura-michi, or Back
Way, which is less steep and more
open than the front approach. It
leads j)ast the pumping station
which supphes the temjole with
water, and rejoins the main road to
Omiya at a point some distance
higher up the course of the Araka-
wa.

Enthusiastic walkers may, in-
stead of returning the way they
came, proceed over the Karizaka-
toge to Kofu. The distance is
estimated at 20 ri from Mitsumine.
The first day's walk should end at
Odaki j the next will include the
portion locally loiown as Hachi-ri
Hatcho, which is a distance of 8 ri

8 did without a sign of habitation
till Kumaqawa is reached, where the
second night is spent ; the third
day will take one easily into Kofti.
This trip is only feasible in summer.
Hikawa, sitiiated in the valley of
the Tamagawa (see Route 27), about
11 ri from Omiya, may be reached
from that town by a lonely moun-
tain path over the Sengen-tdge and
the Nipparn-toge.

ROUTE 12.

By R\iii FKOM Tokyo to Takasaki

AND KaRUIZAWA.

SHIMONITA. MAEBASHI. ISOBE.
MYOGI-SAN.

Names

■2 ga

Remarks

Stations

TOKYO (Ueno)

2 m.

Tabata Jet.

Oji

[Up trains

Akabane Jet

change for

Warabi

Yokohama.

TJrawa

Omiya Jet

\ For Nikko and
) the North.

Ageo

Okegawa

Konosu

Fukiage

Kumagal

Fukaya

Honjo

53-J

Jimbohara

56
601

Shimmachi
Kuragano

/Change for
Karuizawa.

TAKASAKI Jet . .

Some trains
< change for

64i
69

lizuka
Annaka

Maebashi, 6
miles.

73J

Isobe

77i

Matsuida ,

rAlight for
i Myogi-san.

80i

Yokogawa

Kiima-no-taira

87S

KARDIZ.^WA.

Takasaki. Maebashi.

179

This line closely follows the first
stages of the old Nakasendo (see
Eoute 24), and is flat and unin-
teresting as far as Takasaki ; but in
clear weather fine distant views of
the moutains are obtained all
along the route. Fuji is visible 1.
until shut out by the Chicbibu
range ; to the near r. rises Tsukuba
with its twin summits, then Nan-
tai-zan and the other Nikk5 moun-
tains to the extreme r. behind a
lower range ; Akagi-san is distin-
guished by its wide grassy base,
crowned by numerous peaks. On
approaching Takasaki, the great
square mass of the Haruna group
comes in sight ahead to the r., while
on the 1., also ahead, the cliflis of
Myogi stand out Hke the walls of a
huge fortress. Smoking Asama is
a prominent object ahead to the r.
during the whole journey till the
very foot of the pass at Yokogawa,
which it overtops.

XJrawa is the seat of govern-
ment of the prefecture of Saitama,
which includes the greater part of
tlae_province of Musashi.

Omiya [Inn, Takashima-ya, in
the public garden, suppUes Europ.
food). An avenue of 1 m. in length
leads to Hikawa Jinja, the chief
Shintd temple of Musashi, situated
in gi'ounds that have been tui-ned
into a pubhc garden. The temple
is said to have been founded in
honour of Susano-o by Yamato-
take, on his return from subduing
the barbaroiis tribes of Eastern
Japan. After Omiya, the first
place of importance reached is

Kumagai (Inn, Shimizu-ya),
which cai-ries on a large trade in
sUk and cotton, and possesses his-
torical interest in connection with
the wanior Kumagai Naozane (see
p. 78). At

Honjo (Inn, Moroshichi), there
are some important cross-country
roads, one of which joins the Bei-
heishi Kaido, the route formerly
followed by the Mikado's annual
envoy to the shrine of leyasu at
Nikko. Another leading towards

the Chichibu mountains is described
in Koute 11.

Shimmachi (Inn, Mitsumata) is
a large silk-producing town.

Takasaki (Inn, TakasaM-kwan,
at station) was formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyo, and is still an
important industrial centre. A
tramicay leads to Shibukawa for
Ikao.

A miniature railway of 21 m. in
length runs hence to Tomioka (Inn,
Shinshu-ya), a thriving sUk mart,
and to Shimonita (Inn, Sugita), a
tidy httle town standing among
the lower spurs of the mountains
amidst dehghtful scenery. Iron
ore is worked here.

[The railway branches off here
to Maebashi, 6 m., where it
meets the Eyomo line from
Oyama (see Koute 16). Mae-
bashi (Inn, Abura-ya ; Europ.
restt., Akagi-tei), formerly the
seat of a great Daimyd named
Matsudaira Yamato-no-kami,
is now the capital of the pre-
fecture of Gumma, and a great
emporium of the silk trade,
one of the best quahties of raw
silk being named after this
town. The extensive silk-
reehng factories can be seen
on apphcation. To the N.
rises the extinct volcano of
Akagi-san, and W. is the
curious group of mountains
collectively called Haruna, on
the N. E. flank of which are
situated the favourite baths
of Ikao, described in Eoute 14.
The brick enclosm-e seen r. just
before entering Maebashi is
one of the largest convict
prisons in Japan, whose wall
20 ft. high encloses 11 acres of
land. The big river crossed is
the Tonegawa.]
lizuka is a station at the W. end
of Takasaki, some distance from
the business part of the town. The
tramway to Shibukawa (for Ikao)
here crosses the railway.

Annaka was formerly a castle-
town.

180

Route 12. — Tne Takasaki-Karuizawa Railway.

Isobe {Inns, Horai-kwan and
others) is a watering-place lying in
a wide yalley less than 1,000 ft.
above the level of the sea. Exposed
as it is on all sides, it is neither
mild in winter nor cool in summer.
The spring is brine.

Matsuida is the station to
alight at for a visit to the marvel-
lous rocky peaks that crown Myogi-
san. It hes about 1 ri by jinriMsha
from the small vill. of

Mydg-i {Inns, Shishi-ya, Kambe-
ya), the best place to stay at to
inspect the rocks.

The shrine at Myogi is dedicated to the
memory of the 13th abbot of Enryakuji,
a temple on Hiei-zan near Kyoto, who, in
the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A.D. 898-
930), retired here to mourn over the
sadden downfall and banishment of his
pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michizane.
After his death, he was deified under
the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Over two
centuries ago, a fresh access of zeal on the
part of his devotees was the cause of the
shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of
which traces still remain. It is now in
charge of Shinto priests.

The temple stands a short
distance above the "tillage, in the
midst of a gi'ove of magnificent
cryptomerias. The Oku-no-in Hes
25 cho further up the mountain,
and above tins the chffs are nearly
perpendicular. A rocky cave, form-
ed by ;a huge block resting in a
fissure, contains an image of the
god. On the summit of one of
the jutting peaks near the Oku-no-
in, is the enormous Chinese cha-
racter ^ {dai), "gi-eat," whose
dimensions are stated at 30 ft. by
20 ft. It is constructed of thin
bamboos, tied together and cov-
ered with strips of paper, the
votive offerings of pilgrims, which
give it the appearance from below of
being painted white. The surround-
ing scenery is weird and romantic.
From the bosom of a gloomy
grove rise innumerable rocky pin-
nacles, which gradually increase
in height around a lofty central
peak, the whole vaguely recaUing
the front of some colossal Gothic
cathedral.

Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-san as a
system of grand, acute-edged, deeply ser-
rated dykes, apparently radiating from a
common centre, whose highest summit is
about 3,880 ft. in height. Probably it is
the skeleton of a very old volcano.

The highest peak of the jagged
ridge {Haku-un-zan) rising directly
above the 'sill, is called Myogi Jinja
Chojo ; the S. wing is Kinkei-san,
with Kinto-san lying between the
two. The Fude-iwa or "Pen Eock,"
is a consi^icuous projection belong-
ing to Kinkei-san and forming the
N.W. termination of this dyke. Its
ascent is diificult and dangerous.

Three ilays may i)rofitably be
devoted to the various expeditions
around Mj'ogi-san. First day : — to
Daikoku-san, the way there leading
over the pass between Kinkei-san
and Kinto-san, and taking 1^ hr.
from the ■village. (The leeches with
which the wood swarms are apt to
be troublesome). A natural curios-
ity passed on the way is Ichi no
Sekimon, Lit., the First Stone Gate,
which consists of a vertical slab
of rock some 180 ft. high, 2iO ft.
\\ide at the base, and 18 ft. thick,
with an arched hole 90 ft. high and
80 ft. wide. Ni no Sekimon, and so
on down to Eoku no Sekimon, mak-
ing six altogether, are similar
curiosities. Through the last named
it is necessary to crawl on hands
and knees. The Hige-suri-iica, or
" Beard-shaving Eock," is a slender
column of volcanic breccia, the last
10 ft. of the climb up which is
achieved Avith the assistance of a
chain and ladder. From this coign
of vantage, the lofty peak of JSv.ka
no take and many other ciuious
rocks are visible. The ascent of
Naka-no-take, which, though a
rough scramble, is well worth
making, takes about 1 hr. from the
Hige-suri-iwa. The modern-looking
edifice near the latter was built for
the priests, after the burning of the
two temples in 1872.

Second day : — to Kinkei-san.
The way hes along the plain for 1
hr. to the viU. of Sugawara, whence

Boute 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama.

181

the climb to the top — steep but not
dangerous — will take IJ hr. more.

Third day : — to Myogi Jinja
Chojo, the most difficult of the three
expeditions. The only practicable
path is that leading up to the Bai
{iz), and behind the Takezuru Chojo
7 cho below the Okii-no-in (the
route up the steep and dangerous
rock from the Oku-no-in should be
absolutely avoided), thence up over
the Haio-mune, or "Pidgeon's
Breast," a rock some 20 ft. in
height, to scale which it is neces-
sary to take a roj)e. After this
coroeo an arduous cHmb, which
must be achieved by hauling one-
self uj) from tree to tree, — 22^ hrs.
to the summit. Steep and narrow
cols and ridges connect the various
peaks. The return is made the
same way.

The precipitous sides of Myogi
are clothed in parts with rich vege-
tation, and towards the end of
October glow with the crimson
tints of the maple and other trees.

On leaving Myogi, the railway
may be rejoined at Matsuida ; or
else one may walk on for 2 ri to a
point a little further along the
Nakasendo highway, near

Yokogawa (Inn, Ogino-ya, at
station).

After this station the line begins
to chmb the Usui Pass.

The construction of the 7 miles of rail-
way leading to Karuizawa over the Usui
Pass presented greater difficulties than
any that had hitherto been contended
with by engineers in Japan, and for this
reason a hiatus remained in the middle of
the line to the West Coast until 1893,
when the Abt system, — cog-wheels work-
ing on rack-rails, — was successfully intro-
duced. The gradient is 1 in 15, and
almost the whole way a succession of
bridges and tunnels, the total tunnelling
aggregating 2^ miles. There are 26 tun-
nels altogether. No. C being the longest.
The viaduct over the Usui-gawa has four
arches, each of CO ft. opening ; and the
height of the rails from the valley is 110 ft.
There is a curious arrangement to pre-
vent inconvenience from heat and smoke
in the larger tunnels : — the engine is
placed behind, and as soon as the train
has entered, a curtain is drawn at the

lower end, wliich prevents the smoke
from being sucked up along the tunnel.

The tiresomeness of the tunnels
is relieved by momentary glimpses
of gloriously wooded ravines and of
the rugged peaks of Myogi-san.

Shin-Karuizawa, the station,
lies J hr. by jinriMsha from the
summer resort called

Kyu-Karuizawa (see next
Route).

ROUTE 13.

Kaetjizawa and Asama-tama.
1. eaetjizawa and neighbouehood.

2. ASCENT OF asama-tama. 3.
TEMPLE OP SHAKTJSONJT. 4. HOT
SPEINGS OF BESSHO. 5. TO SHIMO-
NITA BY THE WAMI-TOGE. 6. FEOM
KAEUIZAWA TO KXJSATSU.

(Conf. map facing p. 187.)

-Kaeuizawa and Neigh-
bouehood.

Karuizawa (Mampei Hotel,
Karuizav\'a Hotel), easily accessible
from Tokyo in 5 J hrs. by the railway
described in the previous route, lies
in the corner of a grassy moor on
the W. side of the Usui-toge, 780 ft.
below the summit.

The village was in former times prin-
cipally dependent upon travellers over
the ancient highway, and appears to have
just escaped ruin, after the construction
of the railway, by a number of the
foreign residents of Tokyo making it a
retreat from the unhealthy heat of the
city during the summer months. Karui-
zawa's lofty situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a
temperature .seldom excessive during the
daytime, and invariably cool at night.
The rainfall bears favourable comparison
with Nikko and other mountain resorts,
and owing to the porous nature of the soil
in the vicinity, leaves fewer traces be-
hind. The i^lace is nevertheless not free
from mosquitoes, and the small sand-fly
called huyu abounds, — an insect which

182

Route 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama,

inflicts a bite, painless at first, but after-
wards extremely irritable and liable to
swell during several succeeding days.
Karuizawa is specially patronised by
missionary visitors from all parts of Japan
and even China. Tourists should under-
stand that in itself the place possesses no
attractions, no hot springs or historical
associations such as the Japanese care for.
It is but an ordinary village, and the cheap
wooden houses of the foreign summer
residents dot the neighbouring plain like
the beginnings of a new settlement in the
backwoods. But the country round about
affords good rides and walks both on the
grassy moor and among the hills. Besides
those mentioned below, numerous paths
have been recently cleared by the foreign-
ers in various directions, affording nice
walks.

The chief excursion from Karui-
zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama
(see next page), and the railway
affords opportunities for visiting
the romantically situated monastery
of Shakusonji near Komoro, the
famous Buddidst temple of Zenkoji
at Nagano, and the mountains be-
yond (see Koute 26). The shorter
walks include : —

1. To the top of the TJsui-toge,

1^ m. Asama, the Shirane-san and
Koma-ga-take of Koshii, Yatsu-ga-
take, and Tateshina-yama are seen
on the way wp. On the summit
stand a few houses and a small
temple, whose steps are the best
place to obtain the view.

In this spot is localised the follovring
legend, preserved in the Kqjiki : —

When Yamato-take (see p. 87) was cross-
ing from Sagami to Kazusa, while on his
expedition against the barbarous tribes
who then inhabited that region, he ridi-
culed the name of Hashiri-mUu ("Running
Water") given to the strait, and exclaimed
that it was no more than an easy jump
across. The Sea-God, offended at this
insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya-
mato-take's ship was unable to advance.
Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachibana-
Hime said to him, " I will drown myself in
thy stead," — and as she plunged into the
sea, the waves became still. Seven days
afterwards her comb floated ashore. The
prince built a tomb, and deposited the
comb therein. On returning to the capital
after subduing the tribes, he stopped to
rest at the top of the Usui Pass, and
gazing over the plain, said thrice in a
melancholy voice: "Azumawayd!" ("Alaa !
my wife "), whence the name of Azuma by
which Eastern Japan is still known.

2. Atago-yama. This isolated
hill, J hr. walk from the vill., is
ascended by two flights of stone
steps, and has some curious perpen-
dicular rocks half-way up.

3. Hanare-yama, about 1 m.
off. On its E. side, near the sum-
mit, is a large cave tenanted by
bats.

4. Iriyama-toge, 1 hr., by the
base of the hills skirting the moor,
and past the curious rock called
Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and
Pulpit Rock by foreigners. The
peak to the 1. beyond this rock
commands a very extensive pros-
pect. The summit of the Iriyama-
toge affords probably the finest
view obtainable of the valley lead-
ing towards Myogi-san, and, look-
ing backwards, of the wide stretch
of moorland at the base of Asama-
yama.

5. Wami-toge and Sosoku-
iwa. From the foot of the
Iriyama-toge, the path keeps to
the r., and in f hr. more the
highway over the Wami-toge is
reached. The ascent is easy.
After a short but steep descent
on the opposite side, a path 1.
leads to the hamlet of Ongawa,
situated at the base of the Bd-
soku-iioa, aptly re-named by for-
eigners the Cathedral Eocks,
and remarkable for the petrified
wood found in the neighbourhood.
These rocks are most easily ap-
proached from Ongawa. Instead
of returning the way one came,
a pleasant round may be made
by taking a tortuous hill path lead-
ing down deep into the Iriyama
valley, from which Karuizawa may
be regained by the Iiiyama-toge,
Or else, by pursuing a downward
course from Ongawa, one may reach
the hamlet of Aral, at the lower end
of the Iriyama valley. From this
potut it is a little over 1 ri to
Yokogawa, whence train. In any
case, the excursion will occupy the
greater part of a day.

6. Kiritsumi {Inn, Chosei-kwan).
The thermal springs of this place

Kiritsumi. Asama-yama.

183

are reached after a 3 hrs. walk -via
the Usui Pass. Not far from the
summit a narrow path tui-ns 1.,
leading up and down a succession
of wooded mountain gorges, till the
final descent is made into the tiny
valley in which Kiritsumi nestles at
a height of 3,200 ft.— These baths
may be more conveniently reached
by a jinrikisha road from Yokogawa,
3 ri. The way is very pretty, but
the view shut out on all sides. The
water of Kiritsumi is shghtly saline,
with a temperature of 104° F.
Higher up, in a neighbouring
valley, is the old-fashioned water-
ing-place of Iri-no-iju, with accom-
modation only for peasant guests.
The baths are sulphurous and have
a high temperature.

7. Yunosawa, ^ hr. along the
Kusatsu road. A bath may be had
in the small house here, to which
mineral water is brought from
the hUl beyond. Continuing along
the same road, which soon leads
over more elevated ground and
passes through beautiful stretches
of forest, we reach the baths of

8. Kose in about 1 hr. This is
a tiny hamlet in a fold of the hiUs,
but possesses a commodious inn.
Just before reaching Kose there is
a narrow track, which, after travers-
ing the forest, emerges on grassy
mountain slopes, and ascends Hana-
magari-yama (5,500 ft.), command-
ing fine views. It then descends
steeply into Kiritsumi, to which
village this is a longer but more
picturesque route than the one
given above.

2. — AsAMA-YAMA.

Asama-yama (8,280 ft.) is not
only the largest active volcano in
Japan, but also the most accessible.
The excursion to the top and back
may be made from Karuizawa in
one day.

The last great eruption occurred in the
summer of 1783, when a vast stream of
lava destroyed a primeval forest of con-
siderable extent, together with several

villages on the N. side. Most eruptionB
have produced mere showers of ashes,
but stones also were ejected in 1894 and
in 1900. At the foot of the steep cone the
subterranean disturbance can be distinct-
ly heard, and the sulphurous exhalations
near the summit often make this part of
the ascent rather oppressive.

The ascent by the WaJcasare iw
chaya — a rest-house on the old road
to Kusatsu — is the one usually
prefeiTed, and is certainly the
least fatiguing. The best plan is
to hire horses at Karuizawa, where
foreign saddles may be procured,
ride via the vUl. of Kuisukake to
Ko-Asama, — the excrescence on
the mountain side, — 2.^ hrs., and
walk up by the path which diverges
1. some 20 cho before reaching
Wakasare-no-chaya. The climb is
steep, but the path a fairly solid
one of cinders. The time taken to
the lip of the crater is about 2^ hrs.
from the place where one dis-
mounts.

The crater is circular, some f
m. in cu-cumference, with sides
perpendicular, honeycombed, and
burnt to a red hue, while sulphur-
ous steam wells up from the bottom
and from numerous cre-vices in the
walls. On the S. side of the moun-
tain rise two precipitous rocky ram-
parts, separated by a considerable
interval, the outer one being lower
and nearly covered with vegeta-
tion. They seem to be the remains
of two successive concentric cra-
ters, the existing cone being the
third and most recent. The nearer
is quite bare, and columnar in
structure at the centre. The side
of the cone is strewn with large
rough fragments of loose lava, and
unfathomable rifts extend for the
greater part of the way down to
its base. The \iew from the
summit embraces a large tract of
country : — to the N., the whole of
the Kotsuke mountains, x\ith the
Hamna group and Akagi-san ; the
Nikko range and the E. range divid-
ing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the sea
far away in the distance ; next the
Koshu mountains on the S., with

184

Route 13. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama.

Fuji peering over them ; the conical
Yatsu-ga-take and the adjacent
summits of Koshu ; and then on
the W., the huge range that forms
the boundary between Shinshu and
Hida. The descent to the Waka-
sare-no-chaya takes \\ hr.

Another way up, also occupying
about 5^ hrs., is from Oiwake (Inn,
Nakamura-ya), a yLU. on the Naka-
sendo, 2 ri 14 cho from Karuizawa.
On leaving Oiwake, the path as-
cends gently through sloping moor-
land covered with wild-flowers ;
then the acclivity becomes greater,
and gritty ash is reached. At an
elevation of 1,145 ft. above Oiwake,
is a cascade hidden among the
trees that border a deep gorge. Its
height is about 18 ft. ; the red
colour of the water and of the
underlying rock — volcanic brec-
cia covered with a red crust — gives
it a strange apjiearance. At a
height of 3,225 ft. above Oiwake, all
vegetation ceases. For 1,600 ft.
more, the path proceeds up a steep
ascent of loose ash to the edge of
the outer ridge, which from the vill.
below appears to be the summit,
thoTigh not really so. The path
then descends, and crosses over
to the base of the present cone,
which is more easily climbed. —
The ascent can also be made from
Komoro, a railway station ISJ ni.
from Karuizawa. The path leads
straight across the fields towards
the highest visible point of Asama,
and in IJ hr. fair walking brings
one to the crest of a ridge, beyond
which is a deep ravine with a
yellow brook at the bottom, while
the path from Oiwake is at
the same level on the other side.
The brook is crossed after 35 min.
walking, when the path joins that
from Oiwake, described above.
The actual time taken by a good
walker to make the ascent from
Komoro was 5f hrs., exclusive of
stoppages, the last ij hr. being an
extremely rough and steep chmb.

One of the most interesting ex-

ciirsions from Karuizawa is to the
liava Stream of 1783, refened to
in the small type on p. 183. Some
travellers pressed for time combine
this with the ascent of the moun-
tain, doing both in one day ; but
this is too fatiguing. The way
to the lava stream (Oshi-dashi-
gawara) goes off immediately behind
the Wakasare-no-chaya rest-house
(where a guide can generally be
engaged), thence 1. throiigh the
pine-wood which borders the lava
stream ; time 50 min. The huge
blackish grey blocks rise abruptly
to a height of from 20 to 25 ft.
from the edge of the wood, in
extraordinary confusion. Time has
covered them with a coating of
moss, and owing to surface dis-
integration, they break away easUy
in parts, so as to make scrambling
over them difficult. Emerging, as
one does suddenly, from the peace-
ful shade of the forest, with its
carpet of delightfully soft moss, on
to this terrible evidence of sub-
terranean force, the spectacle is
strangely impressive. The view,
too, from the top of the boulders,
especially of Shiran e-san and of the
range dividing the provinces of
Shinshu and Kotsuke is very fine.
On the way back, the gviide will
point out a curious fissure in the
ground extending for a long dis-
tance, dotibtless due to some later
eruption.

3. — Shakusonji.

The train takes f hr. from Karui-
zawa to Komoro, whence it is about
1 hr. walk to the monastery of
Shakusonji, commonly known as
Nxmobiki no Kioannon, which lies
perched on the side of one of the
high bluffs that overlook the Chiku-
ma-gawa. It is a romantic spot,
approached by a narrow gorge lead-
ing from the liver bank. The
priests have tunnelled through the
rocks in several places, making
passages which lead to the various
shrines and form a continuous

Bessho. From Karuizawa to Kusatsu.

185

corkscrew path round the perpen-
dicular cliff. The white-painted hut
close by the bell-tower on the sum-
mit commands a superb view of
the Asama range and the valley of
the Chikuma-gawa. The monastery
belongs to the Tendai sect of
Buddhists.

4. — Bessho.

Summer residents at Karuizawa,
desirous of getting a peep of life
at a typical bathing resort of the
good old kind, might visit Bessho,
a little vill. lying in a fold of the
pine-clad hills, at the foot of
Ogami-dake, 3 ri by jinrikisha to
the W. of Ueda station (1^ hr. by
train). The best inn, Kashiwa-ya,
a three-storied building which ad-
joins a small but x^^etty temple
sacred to Kwannon, sprawls w^ and
down the hillside, commanding a
lovely view. Another temple, -n-ith
a massive thatched roof, called An-
raJcuji, boasts a pagoda of the un-
usTial number of four storeys,
which is 700 years old. A festival
takes place at the summit of Ogami-
dake every 15th July, when each
house in the vill. has to send a
representative bearing some gar-
ment as an offering to the god.
The neighbourhood of Bessho af-
fords many pretty walks, among
others one to the well-known Hd-
fukuji-toge, 2^ hrs., on the highway
between Ueda and Matsumoto.

5. — Over the Wami-toge to
Shimonita.

This expedition can be made
either on horseback or on foot as
far as Shimonita, and the return
by train via Takasaki ; 7^ hours
will be a good allowance to make
for catching the last train. The
way leads over the Wami-toge (see
p. 182), and down a narrow, pictur-
esqi;e valley between lofty, precipi-
tous crags to the vill. of Ilatsudoya.
Jinrikishas with 2 men might be
availed of from this place by order-
ing them beforehand from Shimo-

nita, or else from the next vill.
of Motojuku, the first one which
affords accommodation. The whole
walk is lovely, the valley only
beginning to open out a little about
Motojuku, while Shimonita stands,
so to say, at its moiith. For fur-
ther notice of Shimonita, see p. 179.
The distances are approximately
as follows : —

KAEUIZAWA to Bi Cho 31.

Top of Wami-toge. 2 18 6

Hatsudoya 28 2

Motojuku 1 26 4J

SHIMONITA 2 27 6|

Total 7 27 19

6. — FeOM KAKtIlZAWA TO
KUSATSTJ.

This is a day's joiirney of 10 ri
approximately, barely practicable
for jinrikishas ; three men may be
necessary. Horses with foreign
saddles are also obtainable at Karui-
zawa. The path to Kusatsu di-
verges to the r. before descending
to Kose (see p. 183), and emerging
from the forest, i^asses over the
grassy slojaes of Hanamagari and
the other mountains to the N. of
the Usui-toge. Asama looms up
majestically over the wide moor-
land to the 1. At about 4} ri from
Karuizawa, the old road to" Kusatsu
(12 ri) ■via the Wakasare-no-chaya
joins in, whence on to the poor vill.
of Okuwa, 1 J ri, the way Ues through
dehghtful park-like country, part
of which is utihsed for a horse-
breeding farm owned by the Im-
perial Household. The next stage
takes one in about 1 hr. down to
the bed of the Agatsuma-gawa,
which is crossed on a curious
suspension bridge of about 180 ft.
span made of telegraph wire. On
the far side stands the viU. of
Haneo. The remainder of the way
is mostly a gi-adual ascent through
woods and fields, commanding at
intervals splendid \iews of the sur-
rounding mountains. For Kusa-
tsu, see next Route.

186

Route 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.

ROUTE 14.

Ikao, KtrsATSU, and
Neighjbotjehood.

1. ikao. 2. walks and excuesions
feom rkao : haktjna, etc. 3. ku-
satsu. 4. "walks in the neigh-
bourhood of kusatsu. 5. feom
kusatsu to nagano 0\'ee the
shibu-toge, ascent of shieane-

SAN, THE TOEn-TOGE.

1. — Ikao.

Ikao is a short day's jotimey
from Tokyo (Ueno station).

The first stage is by rail to Mae-
bashi in 3f hrs., whence tram to
Shibukawa, about IJ hr. The tram-
cars usually start from the far end
of Maebashi, 1 J m. from the sta-
tion, but jinrikishas (15 min. to
tram) can be availed of ; or if ordered
beforehand from the Basha Tetsudd
Kwaisha, tramcars will meet travel-
lers at the railway station. The last
stage from Shibukawa up to Ikao
{2 ri 15 cho, or 6 m.) is done by
jiniikisha with two men in 2 hrs.;
return in 1 hr. — Shibukawa can also
be reached from Takasaki station
by tram direct ; but the cars are
smaller and the distance is longer.
In summer time a private car is
almost a necessity.

Hotel. — Kindayu, European style.
There are also the Budayu, Chigira,
and other good inns in Japanese
style.

Ikao, one of the best summer
resorts in Japan, is built on ter-
races along the N. E. slope of
Haruna-san, at an elevation varying
from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The pictur-
esque main street, which divides the
viU. into an eastern and a western
part, consists of one nearly con-
tinuous steep fUght of steps. The
houses W. of the steps border on a
deep ravine called the Yusawa,
through which rushes a foaming
torrent. Ikao enjoys the advantage
■of cool nights, few mosquitoes,
and an unusually beautiful situa-

tion, which ofEers from nearly every
house a grand view of the valleys
of the Agatsuma-gawa and Tone-
gawa, and of the high mountain-
ranges on the border of the gi'eat
plain in which T6ky5 is situated.
From few places can the Nikko
mountains be seen to such advan-
tage, while conspicuous in the
foregi'ound lise the three peaks of
Onoko-yama.

No summer resort in Japan can
show such a wealth of wild-flowers.
During July and August, the hhum
auratum, the tiger-lily and several
other lilies, the iris in many col-
ours, three species of clematis,
three species of spirea, the hy-
drangea, the funkia, asters, cam-
panulas, and numerous others car-
pet the ground. EarUer, especially
in May, this whole country-side
resounds with the song of birds, —
nightingales and cuckoos in the
woods, larks on the open moorland.
Ikao is famous for its mineral
springs, which have a temperature
of 45° C. (113° r.), and which
contain a small amount of iron
and sulphate of soda. They have
been known since prehistoric times,
and the bath-houses pouring out
clouds of steam form a striking
feature of the precipitous village
street. According to the Japanese
style of bathing, the hot baths are
made use of several times a day,
and indiscriminately by visitors of
every description. Lately the water
has been used for diinking purposes,
but it has little more effect than
pure hot water.

2. — Walks and Excuesions
FEOM Ikao.

1. Along the Yusawa ravine to
Yumoto, about J m., nearly level.
Yu-moto means ht., " the Source of
the Hot Water." Seats are erected
for the accommodation of visitors,
who resort there to drink of the
mineral spring (Nomi-yu). The
water, which at its source is quite
clear, has a sUghtly inky taste. On

Scale 1*00000
_? ) 1 S 1_

J.I j^tvr^u

"''^"."^.^^\^f.y

:!^'I;_-^'5i«i-^''

■'^x

•

WaUcs and Excursion.^ from Jkao.

187

being exposed to the air the carbon-
ic acid evaporates, and part of the
iron which the water contains is
precipitated as a yellowish mass.
This covers the bed of the river
and the bottom of the aqueduct,
and gives to the water in the baths
a thick, discoloured appearance.
The people, who have great faith in
the strengthening efEects of this
precipitated iron salt, place large
strips of cotton cloth in the stream.
When the cloth has assumed a deep
yellow colour, it is taken out, dried,
and used as a belt for the body.
Gowns thus dyed (yu-aka-zome)
are offered for sale in the village,
and to wear one of these for twelve
hours is declared to be equal to a
whole course of baths. The mineral
water is led down to the inns in
bamboo pipes.

2. Up Kompira-san, I hr. climb
under shade. Though of no great
height, the top commands an ex-
tensive view, stretching from
Shirane-san near Kusatsu to
Tsukuba-san in Hitachi, and
including the Milcuni and Nikko
ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley of
the Tonegawa.

3. Up to Mushi-yu, (Ht. "Va-
pour Bath"), so called from the
sulphurous gases which here ema-
nate from holes in the ground, over
which huts have been erected for
the treatment of rheumatic pa-
tients. The naked people some-
times standing about at Mushi-yu
make this place unsightly. Time f
hr. Among the rocks by the side of
the path just below Mushi-yu are a
number of holes from which cold
air issues, seeming to testify to the
presence of ice within.

4. To Nanne-no-taki {" the Seven-
fold Cascade"), \ hr. down through
a wood ; thence for | hr., also
mostly up and down through the
wood, to Benten-daki, a very
pretty fall of the stream that flows
from Lake Hanina. About half-way
one passes a picturesque aA'enue
of cryptomerias leading to a small
deserted shrine. This walk mav be

varied by returning via the hamlet
of Inak'igo close to the avenue, but
there is then less shade. — Those who
do not mind scrambhng and wet-
ting their feet a Uttle, may climb to
a point a short way above the upper
of the two falls, where the stream
can easily be crossed, and make
their way through long grass to a
path, whence, turning 1. and down
the valley, Ikao can be reached by
way of the Yoromya-hashi, a bridge
spanning a deep and picturesque
ravine at Aznma-mura.

5. A long but delightful walk
may be taken via the N. end of
Lake Haruna to Benten-daki, by
following the stream which forms
the fall (about IJ hr. from the Lake
to the fall). In spring there is a
wealth of flowering trees, ground
orchids, and wild wistaria ; in
summer the excessive height of the
grass renders this walk impracti-
cable.

6. Mizusawa no Kwannon,

a Buddhist temple in which, though
dedicated to Kwannon, the chief
object of interest is offered by
six bronze images of Jizo, life-size,
on a revolving case. The way
there leads for a few cho down the
Shibukawa road, then diverging r.
over the breezy moor at the foot of
Sengen-yama ; time to the temple,
50 min. One can proceed on from
Mizusawa, a further distance of 50
min. to the high Waterfall of Funao
(or Funyu), in a qiaaintly pictur-
esque rocky fold of a mountain of
the same name. The final scramble
up to the actual foot of the fall is
hardly worth making. One may
return another way, taking a path
over the hills that leads between
Sengen-yama r. and Futatsu-dake
1., — li hr. This wovdd be a good
occasion for ascending Sengen-yama,
the steep path up which is well-
defined.

7. Haruna, — 5i m., of which
4^ m. to the lake. Though the first
part of it is rough, this is by far
the prettiest walldng expedition

188

Route 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.

at Ikao. " Chairs " may, however,
be taken.

Lake Haruna, which ai^parently
occupies the site of an extinct
crater, has been stocked vdth sal-
mon and other lish. On its border
is a tea-house where one may lunch
or spend the night. The mass of
rocks resembhng a tower at the
N. E. end is called Suztiri-iwa, and
can be easily chmbed from the
back. From the lake it is a short
and easy ascent to the top of a pass
called Tenjin-toge, 1,000 ft. above
Ikao, commanding a fine view.
Prom the Tenjin-t5ge the path
descends a luxuriantly wooded glen
to the ancient Temple of Haruna,
situated amongst precipitous and
overhanging volcanic rocks, in a
gi-ove of lofty cryptomerias. Over
the principal building, which is
decorated -wdth excellent wood-
carvings (especially two dragons
t'U'ined roimd the side beams of the
porch), hangs a huge rock sux^ported
on a slender base, which seems
every moment to threaten the
temple with destruction. The
whole site is one of the most
fantastically beautiful that can be
imagined.

The date of the original fouadation o£
the temple of Harana isunlinown. The
earliest records date back only five cen-
turies, when the Yamabushi (a sect of
Buddhist exorcisers and fortune-tellers),
who then had ijossession of the place,
were involved in the ruin of Nitta Yoshi-
sada (see p. 81), with whom they had sided
in the civil wars of the time. More
latterly it came under the jurisdiction of
the Imperial Prince-abbot of Ueuo. The
present main shrine was erected about
A.D. 1725, and since the revolution of
1868, it has been re-dedicated to the
Shinto deities Ho-musubi the God of Fire,
and Haniyasu-Hime the Goddess of Earth.

A short way below the temple
is a remarkable formation of rock
like a iiying buttress, called Kura-
kake-iwa. A few minutes further
on stands the village where reside
the wives and children of the
priests ; for even in old times, a
local exemption existed from the
Buddliist rale of ceUbacy.

8. Fu t at su-d ak e, Soma-
yama, and Haruna Fuji. These
three hills all he on the way to
Lake Haruna. The way up Fidatsu^
dake diverges 1. J hr. out of Ikao,
where a post marks 5J cho to the
summit. From this post, 25 min.
more take one to the spot where
the way to Soma-yama branches off
1. from the Haruna road, close to the
second tea-house. From here it is
20 min. along the base, and 25
min. more uj) an arete to the top,
chains being fixed in the rock at
the two steeliest places to assist
climbers, though there is no real
danger. The Haruna Fuji hes to
the r. of the road, close to the lake,
where there is a grazing-ground for
cattle (Bokujo) ; its steej) and stony
ascent occupies f hr. from the place
where the path diverges. The view
from these various heights is very
beautiful and extensive, particularly
that from the shrine on the summit
of Soma, 4,850 ft. above sea-level,
and 2,150 ft. above Ikao. The
summit of Fuji appears over the
Chichibu mountains nearly due S.
To the W. of it are seen the Koshu
Shirane, the Koma-ga-take's of
Koshu and Shinshii seemingly in
close jjroximity, then Yatsu-ga-take,
Ontake about W. S. W., Asama-
yama a httle to the S. of W.,
Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the
Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of
the Hida-Shinshu range. Eastwards
rise Tsulaiba-san and the Shirane
of Nikkd, ^\ith Kurobi-yama — the
highest peak of Aliagi-san — half-way.
between them. The town of Mae-
bashi is visible to the E. S. E., vrith.
the Tonegawa half encirchng it
before pursuing its course through
the plain.

S5ma may also be ascended from
Mushi-yu ; but on that side the
cUmb is more precipitous, nine
chains in rapid succession helping
the cHmber on the steep portion
just below the summit. Pilgiims
often prefer it for that very reason,
as gaining for them greater reU-
gioiis merit. — Another way up from

Akagi'San. Shima.

189

the direction ot Takasaki joins the
Miishi-yu ascent shortly before the
final climb. It has seven chains
and an iron ladder about 30 ft.
long. The ascent of S5ma from
the Haruna side, with descent on
the Mnshi-yu side, occupies altoge-
ther 4 hrs. from Ikao.

As a variety in the day's work,
good walkers might advantageously
combine one of these hills with
Excursion No. 7 (Haruna).

9. Sengen-yama. This moun-
tain, which assumes so many forms
when seen fi-om different parts of
the plain, can be ascended from
Ikao via Mushi-yu in 1^ hr. The
path is steep, and the sides slope
away precipitously from the top,
which is a long knife-hke ridge.

10. Akagi-san is the collective
name of a circular range of peaks,
surrounding the basin of an old
crater, now a lake, about 2f m. in
circiimference. The mountain may
be ascended from various jpoints,
but is recommended as a 2 days'
expetlition for those spending the
summer at Ikao. The first stage
takes one by jinrikisha to Shibu-
kawa, where the Tonegawa is cross-
ed by ferry to Hassaki. Horses,
ordered beforehand, should here be
in waiting for the next stage of 3
hrs., chieiiy over monotonous and
shadeless moorland, which leads,
however, to a picturesque ridge
surrounded by pretty peaks. A
short distance further, at a cairn
marking the junction of several
paths, begins the only stiff portion
of the ascent, the Ubago-ioge, fi-om
the top of which, in about 1 hr.,
the path descends into the sylvan,
park-like _country on the S. side of
the lake ( Onuma), ^ hr. more. The
lake is enclosed by small hiUs,
v/hose lower slopes are covered with
woods consisting principally of
birch, oak, and alder. From its E.
end rise the highest of the peaks, —
Kurohi-san 6,300 ft., and Jizo-san,
5,600 ft., easy climbs of 30 cho and
12 cho respectively, offering magni-
ficent panoramic views : — Fuji

S.S.W., Kaigane-san (part of the
Koshii Shirane) S.W., the numerous
peaks of Yatsu-ga-take -with Tate-
shina nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama
due W., and the Kusatsu Shirane
about W. N. W. Nearly due N.
rises Hodaka-san, one of the loftiest
peaks in Kotsuke, easily recognised
by its double to^x A large hut close
by the temple (Daido), on the
margin of the lake, affords rough
shelter for the night for man and
beast. The god of Akagi is wor-
shipped under the form of a two-
edged sword. Twenty min. walk
beyond the temple lies a tarn (Ko-
numa), insignificant compared with
the larger sheet of water below.

For those wishing to take
Akagi-san on the way from Nikko to
Ikao or Maebashi, the path leading
up the Torii-toge from Mizunuma
on the Watarase-gawa (see Rte.
19), and the descent by the path
described above, is recommended.

11. The hot-springs of Shima lie
nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that a trip
there involves staying the night.
Shima may most conveniently be
taken on the way to Kusatsu, the
road being the same as far as 20
cho past Nalcanojo. Jinrikishas
can be availed of. but must occa-
sionally be ahghted from. Shima
includes two hamlets, called respec-
tively Yamaguchl Onsen and Arai-
yu, 8 cho distant fiom each other ;
the latter {Inns, Sekizen, and Ta-
mm-a Mosaljuro) is the better. The
hamlet is pictiiresquely situated
close to the river, on whose bank
the springs which siipply the baths
gush forth. Travellers not return-
ing to Ikao, but going on to Kusa-
tsu, need not pass again through
Nakanojo, as there is a short cut
from a place called Eimino. It is,
however, scarcely passable for jin-
rikishas.

12. To Myogi-san. It is a
splendid day's walk \m Haruna-
san to Matsuida on the Takasaki-
Karuizawa Kailway, about 9 ri,
whence 1 ri more to the vill. of
Myogi (see p. 180).

190

Boufe 14. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.

3. KUSATSTJ.

The faYOurite way from Ikao to
this place leads clown oyer open
coTintry to the Hakojima ferry,
where it crosses to Murakami, and
thence along the main road through
Nakanojd, Sawatari, and Namasu,
after which it climbs the Kuresaka-
toge to the uplands of Kusatsu.

Itinerary.

IKAO to :— Ri Chd M.

Murakami 2 31 7

Sawatari 4 26 llj

KUSATSU 5 9 12|

Total 12 30 31i

JinriMshas with two or three men
are now practicable the whole way.
Most persons will prefer to walk the
steeper and more pictitresque
stages at either end, but may
advantageously take basha along
the flat from Murakami to Naka-
nojo. The whole trip makes an
extremely long day. Should a
break be found necessary, good
accommodation may be had at
Nakanojd (Inn, Nabe-ya), or else at
the small bathing vill. of Sawatari
(Inns, Shin-Kan5-ya, Fukuda).

An alternative way from Ikao to
Kusatsu branches off at Nakanojo,
and follows up the Agatsuma-gawa
through Haramachi and Nagano-
hara. Total distance nearly 14 ri,
much of it through beautiful
scenery. Instead of going ^ia Mura-
kami and Nakanojo, one may take
the Haruna Lake route, andby
turning to the 1. at the vill. of Odo,
join the Haramachi route a little
beyond Kawara-yu (Inn, by Hagi-
wara), where there are hot springs
high up on the river bank.

Kusatsu can also easUy be reach-
ed from Tokyo by taking rail to
Karuizawa (see p. 185).

Kusatsu (Inns, Yamamoto-
Irwan, Ichii, each with a besso, or
" separat-e house," and private
baths for foreigners, outside the
vill., open only during the summer

season), 3,800 ft. above sea-level,
whose trim, cleanly appearance
strongly recalls that of a village in
the Tyrol, is the coolest of Japan's
summer resorts. The fine three-
storied and gabled inns forming
the village square give an unusual
aspect to the place. The carving
of the brackets which support the
overhanging galleries combines
similarity of outline with clever
diversity of pattern, — fans with
various crests, birds, fishes, rats,
gourds, etc., being introduced. The
centre of the square is occupied by
springs of boiling sulphur water,
led in troughs to collect the sulphur.
Baths, public and private, are very
numerous. Visitors who, attracted
by these considerations, may think
of spending any time here, should
however bear in mind that the
mineral waters are specially effi-
cacious— not only in rheumatism,
and, as discovered by Dr. E. Baelz,
in gout^ — but in syphilis, leprosy,
and other loathsome diseases, and
that the first effect of the free
sulphuric acid in the water is to
bring out sores on the tender parts
of the body. The chief constitu-
ents of the Kusatsu springs are
mineral acids, sulphur, iron, alum,
and arsenic. The temperature of
the springs is extremely high, rang-
ing from 100° to 160° Fahrenheit,
while the baths are generally 113°
to 128°. The chief public bath,
called Netsu-no-yu, has three divi-
sions of increasing degrees of tem-
perature. Even the Japanese, in-
ured as they are to scalding water,
find their courage fail them ; and
the native invalids are therefore
taken to bathe in squads under a
semi-military discipline, to which
they voluntarily submit. This
system is known as Jikan-yu, or
" time bath," because the hours
are fixed. Soon after daylight a
horn is blown and the bathers as-
semble, dressed in white cotton
tunics and drawers, as many as can
find room taking their first daily
bath. After stripping, they begin

Kusatsu. Ascent of Shirane-san.

191

by beating the water with boards
in order to cool it, — a curious
scene ; and then most disrobe,
while the greatest sufEerers swathe
themselves in white cotton.
Each bather is provided with a
wooden dipper, and the "bath-
master" directs the patients to
poiir 250 dippers of water over
their heads to prevent congestion.
Attendants are on the watch, as
fainting fits sometimes occur. To
keep lip their coiu-age, a kind of
chant takes place between the
bathers and their leader on entering
and while sitting in the bath, — a
trial which, though lasting only
from 35 to 4 minutes, seems an
eternity to their festering bodies.
After the lapse of about one
minute, the bath-master cries out,
and the others all answer with a
hoarse shout. After a little he cries
out, " Three minutes more ! " After
another half-minute or so, " Two
minutes more ! " then " One minute
more ! " the chorus answering each
time. At last the leader cries
" Finished ! " whereupon the whole
mass of bodies rise from the water
with an alacrity which he who
has witnessed their slow, painful
entry into the place of tortm-e
would scarcely credit. Two more
baths are taken during the fore-
noon and two in the afternoon,
making five altogether, at each of
which the same routine is observed.
The usual Kusatsu course includes
120 baths, spread over four or five
weeks. Most patients then proceed
for the " after-cure " to Sawatari,
5 7-i 9 cho (12f m.) distant, where
the waters have a softening effect
on the sMn, and quickly alleviate
the terrible irritation. Some go to
Shibu (see next page) instead. The
lepers' bath {Ooza-no-yu) has no
fixed hours. Fearful sights may be
seen there at all hours. It stands
in the lower part of the village,
which forms a separate leper
quarter.

Kusatsu seems to have been first heard
of as one of the villages belonging to the

great chieftain, Takeda Shingen, in the
16th century ; but its importance dates
only from the Genroku period (1688-1704),
when the springs were enclosed under
straw huts. The inhabitants mostly bathe
twice a day, in a temperature of 110°, but
in winter three or foiir times to keep
warm, and experience no bad effects.
Skin diseases are said to be unknown
among them.

4.— Walks in the Neighboue-
HOOD OF Kusatsu.

1. To Sai-no-Kawara, 8 cho.
The meaning of the name Sai-no-
Kawara is " the Eiver-bed of SouLs."
On its numerous rocks and
boulders, small stones have been
piled up by visitors as offerings to
dead children (see p. 49). Among
these rocks are some called yurugi-
ishi, which, notwithstanding their
being huge boulders, are so nicely
balanced that they can be moved
by the hand. Hot yellow streams
of sulphur, and green streams of
copper flow into the river bed. 12
cho further on over the moor is
Kori-dani, so called from the
frozen snow to be found there even
in the dog-days.

2. To the solfatara of Sessh.0-
gawara, on the slope of Moto-
Shirane, about 1 ri.

3. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane,
Kiyozuka, and HiMnuma, to
Hanashiki near Iriyama, with
hot springs spurting up near a
cold stream. x\bout 2 J ri.

4. Shirane-san,

Shira-nr signifies " White Peak," which
accounts for there being several moun-
tains of this name in Japan.

a frequently active volcano, 7,500
ft. high, forms a short day's ex-
pedition via Sessho-gawara, the
path leading through a remarkable
skeleton forest, blasted by the
fumes exhaled during the eruption
of 1882. The crater is oval in
shape, its longer diameter being
about 500 yds., and its breadth 150
to 200 yds. The wall can be climb-
ed in a few min. on the N. side,
from the ruins of some sulphur
works destroyed in the eruption of

192

Route 14. — Jkao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood.

1897. A boiling lake, which was
destroyed at the same time, has
begun to re-form since the eruption
of January, 1900 ; but the liquid
mud ejected on that occasion ren-
dered approach impossible when
the mountain was last visited. Pro-
bably, when all settles down again,
this lake vnB. be found to consist,
as formerly, of hydrochloric acid,
with iron and alum, only needing
to be diluted and sweetened in
order to constitute an excellent
lemonade.

Shirane-san may be conveniently
taken on the way to Shibu ; but 2^
hrs. extra should be allowed for
that object, as it lies ofE the main
road. Horses go to the foot of the
crater wall above-mentioned. Be-
ware of the water of the stream
crossed on the way up, which is
poisonous.

5. — Kusatsu to Nagano ovek the
Shibu-toge. The Tokh-Toge.

Itinerary.

KUSATSU to :— Ri Cho M.

Top of Shibu-toge. 2 32 7

SHIBU 4 — 9|

Toyono (Station) ..5 — 12^

Total

.11 32 29

On foot or on saddle-horse as far
as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ;
thence basha or jinrildsha to Toyo-
no ; thence train to Nagano in J hr.

This route affords splendid
scenery. The best plan is to sleep
at Shibu {Inns, Tsubata-ya and
others), catching the train at
Toyono next day, the good road in
from Shibu being traversed by basha
in 2J hrs. Travellers who have
not time to visit the temple of Zen-
koji at Nagano, can continue on by
rail to Karuizawa and Tokyo. The
route is one specially recommended
to those who have been taking the
sulphur baths at Kusatsu. Instead
of going for the " after-cure " to
Sawatari, — the usual Japanese plan,
— they can stay at Shibu, where

there are thermal springs suitable
to their needs, and be far more
comfortable. Quince jelly is a
specialty of the place.

The picturesqueness of the road
from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchas-
ed at the expense of a long and
steep climb. The descent from
the top of the pass (7,150 ft.) to
the vill. of Shibu is also very long.
The roclcy gorge (Tsubame-iwa, or
the " Swallow's Rock ")1^ ri before
Shibu is very impressive. Half a
ri further, where a placard points
out the trail 1., it is worth descend-
ing for a few min. to view the fine
Kamman waterfall. The road can
be rejoined below. The panorama
before entering Shibu is most ex-
tensive, including the mountains
known by the names of Myok5-
zan, Togakushi, and Izuna, and
towering behind them again the
northern part of the great
gi'anite range on the borders of
Etchu, described in Eoute 31. The
river twisting through the plain is
the Chikuma-gawa, of which the
Hoshi-kawa flowing through Shibu
is an affluent. A little over i ri
from Shibu is a small but con-
stantly active geyser (Ojigoku) in
the river-bed.

An alternative way to Nagano
from Kusatsu is over the Yamada-
toge, which is comparatively short,
and where the baths of Yamada
may be visited. Another is over
the Torii-toge, 6,520 ft. above the
sea. Both of these descend to the
vill. of Suzaka. The itinerary of
the Torii-toge route is as foUows : —

KUSATSU to :— Ri Cho M.

Mihara 2 6 5^

Ozawa 2 30 7

Tashiro 1 18 3g

Torii-toge 30 2

Nire 4 24 llj

Suzaka 1 29 4^

NAGANO 3 11 8

Total 17 4 41*

Route 15. — TJie Shimizu-goe and Mikuni-toge. 193

This so-called pass is but a gentle
ascent of 50 cho. The prettiest
part of the route is on the far side
of it, where, after leaving the \'il].
of Nire, the monotony of gi-assy
hills shutting out all distant pros-
pect is exchanged for charming
views of the mountains on the
borders of Echigo. JinriMshas can
be obtained at Suzaka for the re-
mainder of the journey, during
which the volcanic cone of Madarao
is visible, besides other mountains
mentioned above.

EOUTE 15.

The Shimizu-goe and

MlKUNI-TdGE.

Acquaintance with a represen-
tative portion of Japan's central
mountain range may be made from
Ikao by going due N. over the
Shimizu-goe, and returning by its
neighbour, the Mikuni-toge. Snow
lies on the higher sections of the
route till early in July. The time
should be divided as follows : —
first day, jinriMsha to Yubiso ;
second day (very long) on foot to
Nagasaki, whence jinrikisha to Mui-
ka-machi ; third day, jinrikisha to
Yuzawa at the foot of the Mikuni-
toge, and walk to Futai ; fourth
day, on foot to Saru-ga-kyo, or to
Yu-no-shuku a little short of Fuse ;
fifth day, walk to Ikao. Accommo-
dation is also to be obtained at
l''ubara, Shimizu, Nagasaki, Asakai,
and Nakayama.

Itinerary of the Shimizu-goe.

IKAO to :— Ei aid 31.

Shibukawa 2 15 6

NUMATA 5 13 13

Yubara 5 16 13^

Yubiso 1 11 3^-

Bun5 2 27 6|

Top of Pass 26 12

Shimizu 2 18 6

Nagasaki 1 27 41

MUIKA-MACHI... 2 15

Total 24 10 591-

After descending to Shibul^awa,
the highway leads up the valley of
the Tonegawa, with the great mass
of Akagi-san to the r., and the cen-
tral range ahead and to the 1. Just
beyond the hamlet of Tanashita,
where the river runs in a deep
gorge between perpendicular rocky
chfEs, the scenery becomes very
picturesque. Time is gained by
leaving Numata (see Route 18) to the
r., and diverging 1. at the hamlet of
Togam at the junction of the Kata-
shina-gawa with the Tonegawa.
The main road from Numata, which
is soon regained, is excellent, and
the scenery even more charming.
Hills rise on all sides, repeating
themselves in an endless succession
of green cones. Yubara (1,350 ft.)
is prettUy perched on either side of
the sti-eam which flows far below,
with rocks washed white by some
hot springs. But the crowning
beauty of this day is at the end.
where the mountains are all forest-
clad, and each valley is dominated
by a lofty peak which the snow
streaks till past midsummer.
Shortly before reaching Yxibiso,
we turn sharp 1., and at last leave
the Tonegawa to follow a tributary
stream flo-^ing from the narrow
and sombre valley that leads to the
Shimizu-goe. The prominent peak
rising due E. of the jimction of the
two streams is Hodaka-yama, where
the Tonegawa, has its source.

Tubiso {Inn by Abe Gijuro,
with hot springs) lies 1,650 ft.
above the level of the sea. About
2 m. further on, we leave the good
road hitherto followed for a track
through a gloidous forest of beech
and chestnut-trees to Bund, which
consists of three or foirr poverty-
stricken inns at the foot of the
Shimizu-g-oe. Steep and stony
is the climb hence, but it affords

194

Route 15. — The Shimizu-goe and Mikuni-toge.

picturesque glimpses. At 4,000 ft.
a rest-house is reached, from which
point the road winds round the
mountain side for about 1 m. more
to a small shrine at the actual
summit of the pass, 500 ft. higher,
which marks the boundary of the
provinces of Kotsuke and Echigo.
In front mountain ridges, rising
one behind the other, stretch away
toward the horizon, the most
prominent being Naeba-san to the
W. of the Mikuni-toge. On the
descent to the vill. of Shimizu,
short-cuts may be availed of
through the grass and trees. The
remainder of the way is an almost
mathematically straight Hne down
an easy gradient between parallel
ranges of hills to Nagasaki and

Muika-machi (Inn, Ebisu-ya).
This is a typical Echigo town, "with
its arcaded pathways to keep a
clear passage amid the deep snows
of winter.

[Passenger-boats go down the
liver hence (an affluent of the
Shinano-gawa) to Nagaoka (see
Eoute 26), in 7 to 10 hours.
They are uncomfortable, shoals
and rapids numerous, and the
stoppages tediously frequent.
The jinriMsha road, 14 ri, is
preferable. Hakkai-zan stands
out conspicuously on the r.
during a great part of the way.]

Itinerary of the Mikuni-toge.

Ri Cho. M.

MUIKA-MACHI 3 14 8^

Shiozawa 31 2

Seki 1 32 4^

Yuzawa 1 17 3|

Mitsumata 2 5 5 J

Futai 2 18 6

Asakai 2 5 5 J

Nagai 3 14 8|

Saru-ga-kyo 22 l|

Fuse 1 31 4J

Nakayama 2 31 7

IKAO (approximately) 5 — 12^

Total 28 4 68i

The jinrikisha road from Muika-
machi leads up a very gradual in-
cUne to Ynzaioa, where the as-
cent of the Mikuni-toge begins.
Properly speaking, four passes are
included under this general name,
the first being the Shibahara-ioge,
2,135 ft. above the sea. Descending
to the bank of the Kiyotsu-gawa.
we arrive at the vill. of Mitsumata,
and mount again to reach the
top of the Xakano-ioge, 2,800 ft.,
amidst lovely views of river, forest,
and mountain. We now go down
a little, and mount again to a height
of 3,200 ft., whence far below is
descried the vill. of Futai. A short
descent then leads to Asakai,
which stands at a height of 2,820 ft.
in the midst of gentle sloj)es crown-
ed by densely wooded siimmits.
Here comes the ascent of the Mi-
kuni Fass properly so called, 4,100
ft. above the sea, whence are seen
Akagi-san, Futago-yama, and
Kwannon-dake to the S., and on
the N. the long ridge of Naeba-san.
Nagai stands in a picturesque
gorge. A spiir of the hUls is cross-
ed on the way to Saru-ga-kyo,
where there are hot springs. The
scenery beyond Fuse is magnificent,
the way leading through a precipi-
tous gorge to the top of the Kiri-
ga-kuho-toge, 2,700 ft., at whose far
side nestles the hamlet of Naka-
yama. The path now rises by a
gentle gradient over the moorland
stretching between Komochi-zan 1.,
and Onoko-yama r., to the Naka-
yama-toge, 2,170 ft., and comes in
full view of the Haruna mountains,
with Ikao perched far up above the
valley.

The regular path descends 1.
through Yokobori to Shibukawa,
while ours diverges r., crossing the
Agatsuma-gawa by ferry, and as-
cending over open country to Ikao..

Houte lG.~T/ie Oyama-3Iaebashi Railway.

195

EOUTE

The Oyama-]Maebashi Rail way.

TEMPLE-CAVES OF IZUEU.

Names

ia'^

Is^l of

Eemarks

S-H

Stations

TOKYO (Ueno).

fSee Northern

48m.

OYAMAJCT

] Railway,
( Boute 65.

54|

Tochigi

57*

Tomiyama

Iwafune

641

Sano

fAlight for

67i

Tomita

j caves of
( Izuru,

713

Ashikaga

74A

Yamamae

77"

Omata

Kiryu

(Koad to Nik-

OMAMA

] ko by Wata-
( rase-gawa.

Kunisada

Isezaki

94J-

Komakata

99| MAEBASHI.

This line of railway, branching
off from the Northern hne at Oya-
ma, which is reached in 2i hrs.
from Tokyo, traverses the provinces
of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. It
affords an alternative, though
longer, railway rovite from Tdkyo
to Maebashi, and is the easiest way
of reaching the hot springs of Ikao
in one day from Nikko. The
scenery is pretty aU along the
hne.

Tochigi {Inns, Kana-han, Sasa-
ya) is one of the most important
towns in Shimotsuke. Its chief
product is hempen thread.

Sano {Inn, Saito), also called
Temmyo, is a pretty and prosperous
place. Its pubhc park hes close to
the station. There also exist the
ruins of a castle built by Hidesato
about 900 years ago.

Fi-om Tomita an excursion may

be made, IJ ri, to the curious Hme-
stone Caverns of Izuru, where
a temple detlicated to Kwannon was
founded by Shodo Shonin in the
8th century. In these caves the
saint is fabled to have taken up his
abode, and passed three years in
prayer and meditation. Jinrildshas
are practicable most of the way
From the vill. of Izuru, it is a walk
of 2 did up a ravine to the cave
called Daishi no Iwaya, the mouth
of which hes high up amongst the
precipitous rocks, and is only to be
reached by ladders. Further on is
the cave sacred to Kwannon, reach-
ed by climbing over steep rocks
with the assistance of chains, and
then by ladders up to a platform
on which stand images of Daikokii
and Shodo Shdnin. The guide
lights candles and shows the way
into the cave, which contains a
large stalactite supposed to resem-
ble a back view of the body of
Kwannon. The cave is evidently
much deeper, but pOgiims do not
usually go further in. Close by is
a hollow in the rock, with two
issues. The guide climbs up a
ladder to the upper hole, gets inside,
and after a minute or two appears'
head first, out of the lower. Half a
cho further is another cave, named
after the god Dainichi Nyorai, and
having two branches, — one about
50 yds. deep, the other penetrating
for an unknown distance into the
mountain.

Ashikag-a {Inn, Senkyo-kwan,
with branch at station) is a great
centre of the trade in native cot-
ton and silk goods, the former, how-
ever, mostly woven from foreign
yarns.

Ashikaga was celebrated for its Aca-
demy of Chinese Learning (Ashikaga Gak-
ko), the foundatioa of which institntion
is traditionally ascribed to the eminent
scholar Ono-no-Takamura (A.D.801— 852)
It reached the zenith of its prosperity
in the time of the Shoguns of the
Ashikaga dynasty, its last great benefactor
being Uesugi Norizane who died in 1573.
This academy possessed a magnificent
library of Chinese works, and was the

196

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

chief centre of Chinese erudition and of
the worship of Confucius, until the
establishment of the Seido at Yedo
(p. 126). Most of the books are now
dispersed, but the image of Confucius
still attracts visitors.

Kiryu (Inn, Kaneki-ya) lies about
2 ri from its station. The chief pro-
ducts are crape, gauze, and habutai,
a silk fabric reseDibhng taffety. The
large ruanufactory here, called the
Nippon Orimono Kwaisha, merits
inspection. It is fra-nished with
French machinery for the manufac-
ture of satins in European style.
A canal has been cut to bring water
fi'om the neighbouring hills ex-
pressly for the use of this factory.

Omama (Inns, Hayashi-ro, at
station ; Toyoda-kwan, in town) is
situated near the foot of Akagi-san.
The picturesque road from here to
the copper mines of Ashio by the
valley of the Watarase-gawa is de-
scribed in Route 19. Omama itself
is a long straggling town, and, like
the other places on this railway
route, of httle general interest, be-
ing entirely devoted to sericidture.
Inconvenience is caused by the
fact that the railway station hes
over 1 ri from the town. Travellers
coming do-wTi the Watarase-gawa
must allow for this.

Maebashi, see p. 175.

ROUTE 17.

Nikko and Chuzenji.

1. genekaii infoemation. 2. chief
objects of inteeest. 3. objects
of minor inteeest. 4. walks
in the neighbotjehood. 5. chit-
zenji and neighbottrhood. 6.
yumoto. ascent of shieane-san
and other mountains.

1. — GENEEAii Information.

A popular Japanese proverb says,
" Do not use the word magnificent
till you have seen Nikkd : "

Nikko wo minai uchi tea,
"Kekko " to iu na !
Nikko's is a double glory, — a glory
of natiure and a glory of art.
Mountains, cascades, monumental
forest trees, had always stood there.
To these, in the 17th century, were
added the mausolea of the illustri-
ous Shogun leyasu, founder of the
Tokugawa dynasty, and of his
scarcely less famous grandson le-
mitsu. Japanese wood-carding
and painting on w^ood being then
at their zenith, the result was the
most perfect assemblage of shrines
in the whole land. But though
there is gorgeousness, there is no
gaudiness. That sobriety, which is
the key-note of Japanese taste,
gives to all the elaborate designs
and bright colours its own chaste
character.

Properly speaking, Nikko is the
name, not of any single place,
but of a whole mountainous dis-
trict lying about 100 miles to the
N. of Tokyo. Nevertheless, when
people speak of going to Nikko,
they generally mean going to one
of the villages called Uachi-ishi and
Irimachi, between which stand the
mausolea. Lying 2,000 ft. above
the sea, Nikk5 is a delightful sum-
mer resort, for which reason many
foreign residents of Tokyo have
villas there, or else at Chiizenji
(4,385 ft.), 7J m. further on. The
only drawback to the chmate is the
fi'equent rain. Within a radius of
15 miles there are no less than
twenty-five or thirty pretty cas-
cades. Nikkd is noted, among other
things, for the glorious tints of its
fohage in late October.

Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from
Tokyd by the Northern Railway, car-
riages being changed at Utsunomiya,
where the Niklvo line branches off.
Travellers from Yokohama change
carriages previously at Shinagawa
and Akabane ; but as these connec-
tions often fail, time and trouble will
probably be saved by going on to
Shimbashi, and driving thence
across Tokyo to Ueno station.

1 '

• Tantuiiu

v>^^

Ikuu a

N'..

t aqngtUtt

Wft

ana

'""..,

Jf>

^«,.*.

Wliaaama ITT SUNOMIlCiJ--'

TOYODO EMGRAVIHQ 1

General Information.

197

Ntkko Beanch Line.

Ss'P

Names

-2 p5'

Remarks

ft ^

Stations

/ SeeNorth-

TOKYO (Ueno)

) ern Kail-

65;jm.

UTSUNOMIYA

) way.Route
(65.

69';

Togami

74 -i

Kanuma

79,'

Fubasami

StJ'l

Imaichi

90.^

NIKKO (Hachi-

isbi)

TTie railway diverges to the W.
in order to tap the Beiheishi KaidO
at the thriving town of Kanuma.
Following that highway lined
with ancient cryptomerias, it does
not come in sight of the other and
still more imposing avenue {Nikko
Kaido), 20 m. in length, which leads
from Utstinomiya to Nikko, until
Imaichi is reached, where the two
roads join.

The Reiheishi Kaido was so called, be-
cause in old daj-s the Reiheishi, or Envoy
of the Mikado, used to travel along it,
bearing gifts from his Imperial master to
be offered at the mausoleum of leyasu.
Both avenues, though anciently contin-
uous, now show many breaks, mostly
the result of fires in hamlets along their
course.

Fine views of the Nikk5 moun-
tains are obtained on the r. be-
tween Utsunomiya and Togami ;
later, Nantai-zan alone is seen
towering above a lower range in
the foreground. Then the lofty
cryptomerias of the Reiheishi
Kaido, close to which the railway
runs, shut out the prospect until a
break occurs 10 min. beyond
Fubasami, when the whole motxn-
tain mass appears to the 1. ahead.

The village of Ilachi-ishi being a
long one, and the railway only
touching its lower end, there
remains a stretch of 1^ m. to be
done by jinriMsha from the station
to the hotels.

When leaving Nikko, travellers

are recommended to take jinrikishas
for the 4 m. leading to Imaichi
station, as a means of seeing the
great avenue, the servant or guide
being meanwhile sent fi'om Nikko
station with the luggage.

Hotels. — *Kanaya Hotel, *Nikk5
Hotel (Arai), both in European
style ; Konishi-ya, Kamiyama, Jap.
style. — Foreign stores and fresh
meat can be obtained at Masuju in
the vill., close to the Red Bridge.

English Church. — Near the public
park.

Means of Conveyance. — " Chairs,"
kafjos, or saddle-horses can be
taken to such places as are not
accessible by jinriMsha. There is
a fixed scale of charges. The tram-
way running up the valley is not
for passengers, but only for the
private use of the Ashio Copper
Mine (see p. 216).

Ckiicles are in attendance at the
hotels, and will aiTange for the
purchase of tickets of admittance
to the mausolea. Membership of
the Hoko-kwai, or Nikko Preser-
vation Society (5 yen), confers the
permanent privilege of admission
to all the temples without further
fees. The mausolea of the Shdguns
are open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Visitors must remove their boots at
the entrance to the main shrines.

Nikko is a mart for skins of the
badger, deer, marten, wild-boar,
etc., and various pretty articles
made of a black fossU wood {jindai-
boku) brought from Sendai in the
north. There are some excellent
curio shops.

History. — The range of mountains
known as Nikko-zan lies on the N. W.
boundary of the province of Shimotauke.
The original name was Futa-ara-yama,
which, when written with Chinese ideo-
graphs, may also be pronounced Xi-ko-
zan. According to the popular account,
the name was derived from periodical
hurricanes in spring and autumn, which
issued from a great cavern on Nantai-zan,
the mountain to the N. E. of Chuzenji.
In A. D. 820 Kobo Daishi visited the spot,
made a road to the neighbourhood of the
cavern and changed the name of the
range to NLkko-zan, or " Mountains of the
Sun's Brightness," from which moment

198

Route 17. — NikTco and Chuzenji.

the storms ceased to devastate the country.
Another explanation of the name Futa-
ara-yama, is that it means "The Two
Baging ilountains," in allusion to the two
volcanoes which form part of it, viz,
Nantai-zan, and Shirane-san heyond Yu-
moto. But though the latter breaks out
at frequent intervals, no eruptions have
taken place from Nantai-zan within
memory of man.

From the earliest ages of which any
trustworthy record remains, a Shinto
temple existed at Nikko, which was after-
wards removed to Utsuuomiya. In the
year 767, the first Buddhist temple was
erected by the saint Shodo Shonin. Later
on, in the beginning of the 9th century,
Kobo Daishi, and in the middle of the
same century the abbot Jigaku Daishi,
added to the holy places. The following
account of Shodo Shonin is summarised
from a memoir written by his immediate
disciples. He was born at Takaoka near
the E. boundary of Shimotsuke, in the
year 735. His parents had long desired
to have a son, and at last their wish was
granted by the Thousand-Handed Kwan-
non of the Izuru Caves, to whom they
had prayed for offspring. Various
portents accompanied his birth : loud
thunder was heard, a miraculous cloud
hung over the cottage, flowers fell from
heaven into the courtyard, and a strange
perfume filled the air. From his earliest
years the saint was devoted to the wor-
ship of the gods, and amused himself by
raising toy pagodas and shrines of earth
and stones. In his twentieth year he
secretly quitted his father's house, and
took up his abode in the cave of the
Thousand-Handed Kwannon at Izuru.
After passing three years in prayer and
meditation, he dreamt in mid-winter
of a great mountain N. of Izuru, on the
top of which lay a sword more than 3
ft. in length. On awaking, he left the
cave, and endeavoured to make his way
in the direction indicated ; but the deep
snow opposed ditficulties almost insur-

mountable. Vowing to sacrifice his life
rather than abandon the enterprise, he
persevered, and at last reached a point
from which he beheld the object of his
search. Ascending to the top of the
mountain, he gave himself up to austere
discipline, living on fruits which were
brought to him by a supernatural being.
After thus jiassing three more years, he
returned to Izuru, and in 762 visited the
temple of Yakushi-ji, not far from Ishi-
bashi on the Oshu Kaido, where, meeting
some Chinese priests, he was admitted by
them as a novice. He remained in the
monastery for five years, and then
returned to the mouatain now called
Kobu-ga-hara. From its summit he be-
held, on the range to the N., four
miraculous clouds of different colours
rising straight up into the sky, and he
at once set off to reach them, carrying
his holy books and images in a bundle on
his back. On reaching the spot whence
the clouds had seemed to ascend, he
found his advance barred by a broad
river, which poured its torrent over huge
rocks and looked utterly impassable.
The saint fell upon his knees and prayed,
whereupon there appeared on the opposite
bank a divine being of colossal size,
dressed in blue and black robes, and
having a string of skulls hung round his
neck. This being cried out that he would
help him to pass the stream, as he had
once helped the Chinese pilgrim Hstian
Chuang across the Eiver of Flowing Sand.
With this promise, he flung across the
river two green and blue snakes which
he held in his right hand, and in an
instant a long bridge was seen to span
the waters, like a rainbow floating among
the hills ; but when the saint had crossed
it and reached the northern bank, both
the god and the snake-bridge suddenly
vanished. Having thus attained the ob-
ject of his desires, Shodo Shonin built
himself a hut wherein to practise his
religious exercises. One night a man
appeared to him in a vision, and told him

Index to Plan of Nikk5 Temples.

1. Mangwanji.

2. Public Park.

3. Pagoda.

4. O Kari-den.

5. Ni-5-morL.

6. Sacred Store-houses.

7. Sacred Stable.

8. Holy-water Cistern.

9. Kyozo.

10. Bell-tower.

11. Temple of Yakushi.

12. Yomei-mon.

13. Kagura Stage.

14. Goma-do.

15. ]VlLkoslu-do.

16. Kara-mon.

17. Honden.

18. Tomb of leyasu.

19. Futa-ara Jinja.

20. Futatsu-do.

21. Tomb of Jigen Daishi.

22. Ryuko-ia.

23. Ni-o-mon.

24. Holy-water Cistern.

25. Niten-mon.

26. Yasha-mon.

27. Honden.

28. Tomb of lemitsu.

iUot <-»»c V.511

TloJcli; />;o/J TViQ rioT-t QliV.r.f

SO lower aown me sireaui, is u.

called Hotoke-iwa, and the mansoleum , n j « m t, • i

was commeuced in December of the same so-called _ iemporary Undge

TEMPLES AND TOMBS

OF NIKKO

SiPil

»A

^%iri[ff . - fills

i^>-'«v:

5. Ni-o-mon.

I 19 Fiitn-arft .Tini

History. Red Bridge.

199

that the hill rising to the north was called
the Mount of the Four Gods, and was
inhabited liy the Aziire Dragon, the Ver-
million Bird, tlic White Tiger, and the
Sombre Warrior, who respectively occu-
pied its E., S., W., and N. peaks. He
climbed the hill, and found that he had
arrived at the goal of hi.s journey ; for
there were the four clouds which he had
originally set out to seek, rising up around
him. He proceeded accordingly to build
a shrine, which he named the Monastery
of the Four Dragons {Shi-him-ryu-ji). In
the year 767 he resolved to ascend the
highest peak of the group, and after duly
preparing himself by religious exercises,
he set out upon this new enterprise. After
ascending for a distance of over 40 ri
(probably the ancient ri, of which 1 = 1
mile), he came to a great lake (Vhuzenji)
on the flank of the mountain (Nant'ai-
zan) : but in spite of his prayers found it
impossible to proceed any further, on
account of the deep snow and the terrific
peals of thunder which roared about the
mountain ti>p. He therefore retraced his
steijs to Nikko, where he spent fourteen
years in fitting himself, by the repetition
of countless prayers and the performance
of penances, for the task which he was
unwilling to abandon. In 781 he renewed
the attempt unsuccessfully, but in the
following year he finally reached the sum-
mit, accompanied by some of his dis-
ciples. It seemed to him a region such
as gods and other supernatural beings
would naturally choose for their re8id(n(^e,
and he therefore erected a Buddhist
temple called Chiizenji, in which he
placed a life-size image of the Thousand-
handed Kwannon, and close by it a
Shinto temple in honour of the Gongen of
Nikko. He also built a shrine to the
" Great King of the Deep Sand " {Jinja
Dai-o) at the point where he had crossed
the stream. .Sh(5do Shonin died in 817 in
the odour of sanctity. Manr}ivaiiji or IHn-
noji is the modern name of the monastery
founded by him at Nikko.

In A. D. IGIG. when Jigen Daishi was
abbot, the second Shogun of the Toku-
gawa dynasty, acting on the dying in-
junctions of his father leyasu, sent two
high officials to Nikko to choose a resting-
place for his father's body, which had
been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan, a
beautiful spot near Shizuoka on the To-
kaido. They selected a site on a hill
called Hotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum
was commenced in December of the same
year. The mortuary shrine and some of
the surrounding edifices were completed
in the epriiig of the succeeding year, "ud
on the "JOth April the procession bearing
the corpse started from Kuno-zan reach-
ing Nikko on the 8th May. The <-offin
was deposited in the tomb, with impres-
sive Buddhist services in which both the
reigning Shogun and an .jnvoy from the
Mikado took part. In the year 1C44 Jigon

Daishi died. The next abbot was a court
noble, the next to him was a son of the
Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since which time
down to the revolution of 18G8 the abbot
of Nikko was always a prince of the Im-
perial blood. He usually resided at Ueno
in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times
annually.

The great annual festival is held
on the 1st and 2nd June. The
sacred palanquins (mikoshi) con-
taining the divine symbols are then
borne in procession, when ancient
costumes, masks, and armour are
donned by the villagers, old and
young alike taking part in the dis-
l^lay. Another, but less elaborate,
ceremonial is observed on the 17th
September.

2. — Chief Objects of Intekest.

On isstiing from the upper end of
the village, one of the first objects
to arrest attention is the Mi-
hashi, a Eed Bridge spanning the
Daiya-gawa, a stream about 40 ft.
wide between the stone walls which
here confine its course. The bridge
is supported on stone piers of great
sohdity, fixed into the rocks be-
tween which the stream flows, and
its colour forms a striking contrast
to the deep gi'een of the cryi)to-
merias on the opposite bank.

It was formerly closed to all persons
except the Shogun, save twice a year
when it was oijened to iiilgrims. It stiiuds
on the spot wliere, according to the legend
above related Shodo Shonin crossed the
river. His hut stood on the site overlook-
ing it, now occupied by the Kanaya
Hotel.

The present structure, which is
84 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, was built
in 1638 and last repaired in 1892.
The gates at each end are kept con-
stantly closed. Forty yanls or
so lower down the stream, is the
so-called "Temporary Bridge"
(Kari-bashi), which is open to or-
dinary mortals. Crossing this
and tiuning to the 1., the Aisitor
ascends o, paved slope through a
grove of cryptomerias, and reaches
the enclosure in which formerly
stood the Ilombd, or Abbot's Palace.
This is commonly spoken of as

200

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

Mangwanji or Rinnoji, names
■which, however, properly denote
all the Nikko temple buildings
collectively. The road to be taken
skirts the S. v^^all of this en-
closure, and then follows its W.
side. On the 1. of the avenue is the
Choyo-kwan, formerly used for the
reception of grandees of the Toku-
gawa family, but now the summer
residence of the young Imperial
Princesses, Tstine - no - Miya and
Kane-no-Miya.

Within the Mangwanji enclosure
stands the Sambutsu-do, or Hall of
the Three Buddhas, so called from
gigantic gUt images of the
Thousand-handed Kwannon r.,
Amida in the centre, and the
Horse-headed Kwannon 1., which
are enshrined behind the main
altar. There are other images, and
a beautiful silk mandara of Dai-
nichi Nyorai and the 36 Buddhas.

Turning towards the pretty Land-
scape Garden, one sees at the back
of the Sambutsu-d5 a row of
small painted images, among which
Fudo and his followers, coloured
bhie, occupy the place of honour.
Close by is a pillar called Sorinto,
erected in 1G43 for the sake, it
is said, of averting evil infliaences.
It consists of a cylindrical
copper column 42 ft. high, of a
black colour, supported by hori-
zontal bars crossing through its
centre, which rest on shorter col-
umns of the same material. The
top is adorned mth a series of four
cups shaped like lotus-flowers, fi'om
the petals of which depend smaU
bells. Just beneath the lowest of
these cups are four small me-
dallions, with the Tokugawa crest
of three asaruni leaves (aoi no mon
or mitsu-aoi). Notice the two fine
bronze lanterns. On the opposite
side of the road is the new Public
Park, in Japanese style.

Mausoleum of leyasu. As-
cending some broad steps between
two rows of cryptomerias, we come
to the gi'anite torii presented by
the Daimyo of Chikuzen from his
own quarries in the year 1618. Its
total height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the
diameter of the columns is 3 ft. 6
in. The inscription on the columns
merely records the fact of their
presentation and the name of the
donor. On the 1. is a five-storied
pagoda of graceful form, painted
in harmonious colours. It rises to
a height of 104 ft., and the roofs
measure 18 ft. on each side. This
monument was the offering in 1659
of Sakai Wak;Tsa-no-Kami, one of
the chief supporters of the Toku-
gawa family. Eound the lower
storey are life-like painted carvings
of tie twelve signs of the zodiac.
Opposite the pagoda, and standing
amidst the trees to the r. of the
steps, is the 0 Kari-den, a building
used to hold the image of leyasu
whenever the main temple is under
repair. From the torii, a pavement
leads to the bottom of the steps

Mausoleum of leyasu.

201

crowned by the Ni-o-mon, or Gate of
the Two Kings. The gigantic figures
of these gods, which formerly
occupied the niches on the outside
of this gate, have been removed,
and their places taken by gilt Awa-
inu and Koma-inu. On the tops of
the pillars, at the four external
angles, are representations of a
mythological animal called baku.

One of the most ancient Chinese
classical books says of this animal : "In
shape it resembles a goat : it has nine
tails, four ears, and its eyes are on its
back." According to another authority.
" It resembles a wolf, with the trunk of
an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the
tail of a bull, and the leg.s of a tiger." It
is credited with the power to avert evil,
and is therefore sometimes depicted in
gold lacquer on the pillows used by the
nobility, because it will be able to devour
any bad dreams that may pass before
their sleeping eyes.

The heads on the central pillars of
the two outer ends of the structure
are hons ; in the niches r. and 1. of
the Hon at one end are unicorns,
and in the corresponding niches at
the other end are fabuloiis beasts
called takujil, which are supposed
to be endowed with the power of
speech, and only to appear in the
world when a virtuous sovereign
occupies the throne. The doorways
are ornamented with elephants'
heads ; the first portico has hons
and peonies, and the second tigers.
The interiors of the niches on the
outside of the gateway are decorated
with tapirs and peonies, those on
the inside niches with bamboos.
The carvings of tigers under the
eaves on the interior side of the
gateway are excellent. Notice also
the fine old bronze flower-vases
from Luchu.

Passing through the gateway, the
visitor finds himself in a com-tyard
raised high above the approach,
and enclosed by a timber wall
painted bright red. The three
handsome buildings arranged in a
zigzag are storehouses, where
various utensils employed in the
religious ceremonies performed in
honour of leyasu, pictures, furni-

ture, and other articles used by him
during his life-time, and many other
treasures belonging to the temple,
are deposited. The third is re-
markable for two curious painted
carvings of elephants in rehef in
the gable of the nearest end, which
are ascribed to Hidari Jingoro, the
drawing having been made by the
celebrated artist Tan-yu. It will be
noticed that the joints of the hind-
legs are represented bent in the
wrong direction.

On the 1. of the gate stands a
conifer of the species called koya-
maki, surrounded by a stone
railing.

Some say that this is the identical tree
which leyasu was in the habit of carrying
about with him in his palanquin, when it
was still small enough to be held in a
flower-pot.

Close to this tree is a stable for
the sacred white pony kept for the
use of the god. This gateway, like
the others to be noticed fiirther on,
is beautifully carved.

Over the doors are some cleverly
executed groujjs of monkeys, for
whose signification see Koshin (p.
50). A very interesting object is
the On Chozu-ya, containing a holy-
water cistern made of one sohd
piece of granite, and sheltered by a
roof supported on twelve square pil-
lars of the same mateiial. It was
erected in 1618. The pediment of
the roof contains a pair of -winged
dragons, carved in wood and paint-
ed. The beautifully decorated
building beyond the holy-water
basin is called the Kyozo, and is
the depository of a complete col-
lection of the Budtlhist scriptures,
contained in a fine revolving octa-
gonal book-case with red lacquer
panels and gilt pillars. In front are
smihng figiares of Fu Daishi and his
sons (see p. 47), whence the name
of Warai-do popiilarly apphed to
this edifice. Paintings of angels
on a gilt ground occupy the clere-
story of the interior, txx the centre
of the court stands a fine bronze
torii, with the Tokugawa crest in

202

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

gold on the tops of the pillars and
on the tie-beam.

A flight of steps gives access to
a second court, along the fi'ont of
which runs a stone balustrade.
Just inside are two stone hons in
the act of leaping down, presented
by lemitsu. On the r. stand a bell-
tower, a bronze candelabrum pre-
sented by the King of Luchu,
and a bell given by the king of Ko-
rea, called the " Moth-eaten Bell,"
because of there being a hole in the
top, just under the ring by which it
is suspended. On the 1. stand a
bronze lantern fi'oni Korea, a can-
delabrum from Holland, and a
dritm-tower. no unworthy compan-
ion to the bell-tower opposite. (Be
it remarked that Holland, Korea,
and Luchu were considered to be
Japan's three vassal states.) The
lantern is a line and sohd piece of
workmanship ; but its style and
construction indicate that it does
not owe its origin to Korea. The
two candelabra and the lantern, as
well as the bronze candle-brackets
fixed upon the interior wall of the
couil, r. and 1. of the steps, probably
came from Europe through Dutch
or Portuguese traders. Tm-o iron
standard lanterns on the r. of the
steps, presented by Date Masa-
mune, Daimyo of Sendai, and the
same number on the 1. given by the
Daimyo of Satsuma, merit atten-
tion. They are dated 1641. The
total number of lanterns contribut-
ed by various Daimyos is one
hundred and eighteen.

At the 1. extremity of this same
platform stands the Temple of
Yakushi, dedicated to Horaiji Mine-
no-Yakushi, the imtron saint of
leyasu, for which reason its Bud-
dhist emblems have been left intact,
while Shintd influence has more or
less modihed the other shiines
during the present reign. A native
guide-book tiiily remarks, " Though
the exterior of this temple is but
ordinary black and red, the orna-
mentation of the interior has no
parallel in Nikk5." It is a blaze of

gold and harmonious coloirrs. On
either side of the altar stand images
of the Shi-Tenn5, flanked by Yaku-
shi's twelve followers. The monster
dragon in sepia occupying the whole
ceiling is by Kano Yasunobu.

Proceeding towards the steps that
lead up to the platform on which
stands the exquisitely beautiful gate
called Yomei-mon, observe the fence
on either side, with fine medaUions
of mountain birds in the upper pan-
els, and water-fowl in the lower.
The columns supporting the gate
are carved with a minute geometri-
cal pattern, and painted white. The
marking of the hair on the two
tigers (moku-me no tora) in the
central medallion of the 1. hand
pillar, is obtained from the natural
vein of the wood. The pillar next
beyond has the i)attern carved
upside down, which was done pur-
posely, o-wing to a superstitious
notion that the flawless perfection
of the whole structure might bring
misfortune on the House of Toku-
gawa by exciting the jealousy of
Heaven. It is called the Ma-yoke
no Hasldra, or Evil-Averting
Pillar. The side niches are lined
with a pattern of graceful arabes-
ques founded ujaon the peony; those
on the outside contain the images
called Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed
with bows and caiTying quivers full
of arrows on their backs ; the inner
niches have Ama-inu and Koma-
inu. The capitals of the columns
are formed of iinicorns' heads. The
architrave of the second storey
is adorned -with white dragons'
heads where the cross-beams inter-
sect, and in the centre of each side
and end is a magnificently involved
dragon "with golden claws. Above
the architrave of the lower storey,
projects a balcony which runs all
round the building. The railing is
formed of children at play {Kara-
ko-asohl) and other subjects. Below
again are grouj)s of Chinese sages
and immortals. The roof is sup-
ported by gilt dragons' heads ^ith
gaping ciimson throats, and from

Mausoleum and Tomb cf leyasu.

203

the top a demon looks down. The
Indian ink drawings of dragons on
the ceilings of the two porticoes are
by Tan-yu.

Passing through the Yomei-mon,
we enter a third court in which
the Buddhist priests used to recite
their Hturgies at the two great
annual festivals. Of the two build-
ings on the r., one contains a stage
for the performance of the sacred
kaijura dances, and in the other,
called Goma-do, was an altar for
burning the fragrant cedar while
prayers were recited. On the 1. is
the Mikoshi-do, containing the
palanquins borne in procession on
the 1st June, when the deified
spirits of leyasu, Hideyoshi, and
Yoiitomo are supposed to occuiDy
them. So heavy are they that each
requires seventy- five men to carry
it. By the side of the Mikoshi-do
there is an exhibition of relics con-
nected with leyasu.

The next object of interest is the
Kara-mon, or Chinese Gate. It
gives admittance to the main
shrine, the enclosure being sur-
roiinded by the tamagaki, or fence,
forming a quadrangle each side of
which is 50 yds. long, and is con-
structed of gilt trellis with borders
of coloured geometrical designs.
Above and beneath these again are
carvings of birds in gi'oups, about
8 in. high and 6 ft. long, ^^dth back-
grounds of grass, carved in relief
and gilt. The pillars of the Kara-
mon are composed of Chinese
woods inlaid with great skill and
beauty, the subjects being the
plum-tree, dragon, and bamboo.
The two white figures under the
roof are Chinese sages, while the
lower row represents the Emperor
Gyo (Yao), the founder of the
Chinese monarchy, suiTounded by
his court. The folding-doors of
the llonden, or oratory, are lavishly
decorated -with arabesques of peo-
nies in gilt relief. Over the door and
windows of the front, are nine com-
]5artments tilled with birds carved
in relief, four on each side of the

building ; and there are four more
at the back, on each side of the
corridor leading to the chapel. The
interior is a large matted room,
42 ft. long by 27 ft. deej), with an
ante-chamber at each end. That
on the r., which was intended for
the Shogun, contains pictures of
lions on a gold ground, and four
carved oak panels of phoenixes
which at first sight seem to be in
low rehef, but prove, on closer
examination, to be figures formed of
various woods glued on to the
surface of the panel. The rear
compartment of the ceihng is of
carved wood, with the Tokugawa
crest in the centre surrounded by
phoenixes and chrysanthemums.
The opposite ante-chamber has the
same number of panels, the sub-
jects of which are eagles executed
with much spirit, and a carved and
painted ceihng with an angel sur-
rounded by chrysanthemums. The
gold paper gohei at the back of the
oratory, and a circular mirror are
the only ornaments left, the Bud-
dhist bells, gongs, sutras, and so
forth, having been removed. Two
wide steps at the back lead down
into the Stone Chamber, so called
because paved with stone under the
matted wooden floor. The ceihng
consists of square panels, with gold
di'agons on a blue ground. Beyond
are the gilt doors of the chapel,
which is divided into four apart-
ments not accessible to visitors.
The first, called Meiden, where
the offerings are presented, is a
chastely decorated chamber having
a coffered ceiling with phoenixes
diversely designed, and carved
beams and pillars of plain wood.
In it stand gilt and sUken gohei,
a gift of the present Emperor.

To reach leyasu' s Tomb, w'e issue
again from the Kara-mon, and pass
between the Goma-do and Kagura-
do to a door in the E. side of the
gallery. Over this door is a carving
called the JVemuri no Neko, or
Sleeping Cat, one of Hidari Jin-
goro's most famous works, though

204

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

some visitors will be disappointed
at its insigniiicanee amidst so much
grandeur. From this a moss-grown
stone gallery and several steep
flights — of about two hundred steps
altogether — lead to the tomb on the
bin behind. After passing through
the iorii at the top of the last
flight, we reach another oratory
used only when that below is undei--
going repair's. The tomb, shaped
like a small pagoda, is a single
bronze casting of a light colour,
produced, it is said, by the admix-
ture of gold. In front stands a low
stone table, bearing an immense
bronze stork ^vith a brass candle in
its mouth, an incense-burner of
bronze, and a vase with artificial
lotus-flowers and leaves in brass.
The whole is surrounded by a stone
wall surmounted by a balustrade,
the entrance being through a bronze
gate not open to the pubUc, the roof
of which, as well as the gate itself,
is a sohd casting. Before it sit
bronze Koma-lmi and Ama-inu.

On leaving the mausoleum of
leyasu, we turn to the r. at the bot-
tom of the steps, and pass along
the avenue iinder the wall to the
open space through the to7'ii, where
stands r. the Shinto temple of
Futa-ara Jinja, dedicated to the god
Onamuji.

When Shodo Shonin, in A. D. 782,
reached the top of Nantai-zan, the tute-
lary deities of the region appeared to
him, and promised to watch over the
welfare of human beings and the progress
of Buddhism. These were the god
Onamuji, the goddess Tagori-hime his
wife, and their son Ajisuki-taka-hikone.
Japan is believed to have been saved on
many occasions from the perils of civil
war and invasion by the intervention of
these divine beings, who are styled the
"Three Original Gongen of Nikko ;"' and
local tradition avers that it was owing to
the efficacy of the prayers here oii'ered
that the Mongol invaders in the second
half of the 13th century were repulsed
with such terrible loss. The chief festival
of the temple is held on the 17th April.

In the prettily decorated Honden
behind, various antiqiie objects,
such as swords, vestments, lacquer,
magatama, etc. are exhibited.

In one corner of the enclosure
stands a bronze lantern called the
Bakemono Toro, presented in 1292.

This lantern owes its name to the tradi-
tion that it anciently had the power of
taking the form of a demon, and annoy-
ing the iuhabitants of the locality on
dark nights, until a courageous man
attacked it, and with his sword gave it a
wound which is still visible on the cap.

Turning to the 1. and descend-
ing, we perceive two red-lacquered
bmldings {Futatsu-do), standing
together and connected by a cover-
ed gallery. The smaller is dedi-
cated to Kishi Bojin and Fugen
Bosatsu, the larger to Aniida.
Bound the sides of the interior are
ranged a number of Buddhist im-
ages. It is also called Yoritomo-
do, because here are preserved the
bones of Yoritomo, which were
discovered near the site of the Ni-
o-mon gate of leyasu's mausoleum
about the year 1617.

How this statement is to be reconciled
with the existence of Yoritomo's tomb at
Kamakura (see p. 101), must be left to
archseologists to determine.

Passing under the gallery which
connects these temples, and going
up the avenue, we come to the
resting-place of Jigen Baishi, other-
wise called Tenkai Daisojo, abbot
of Nikkd at the time of leyasu's
interment. There is the usual
mortuary shiine in front ; the tomb
is a massive stone structure of stupa
shape, guarded by life-size stone
effigies of the Buddhist gods called
collectively Roku-bu-Ten. To the
1., up a small flight of steps, are the
unpretending tombs of the prince-
abbots of Nikko, thirteen in num-
ber.

Mausoleum, of lemitsu. The
building seen to the r., before we
mount the great stone staircase, is
Ryuko-in, the residence of the
priests attached to this temple. The
first gate leading towards the mau-
soleum is a Ni-o-mon containing
two pairs of INi-o, those in the
niches of the inner side having been
removed hither from the gate of

Mausoleum of lemitsu. Minor Sights.

205

leyasii's mausoleiini. Under a
beautiful structure r., supported by
granite pillars, is a massive granite
water-basin. The dragon on the
ceiling is by Kan5 Yasunobu.
A flight of steps leads to the gate
caUed Niten-mon. The niches on
the outside contain a red statue of
Komoku on the 1., and on the r. a
green one of Jikoku, while the
inside niches are tenanted by the
Gods of Wind and Thunder.
Three more flights conduct ns to
the Vasha-mon, or Demon Gate,
whose niches contain the Shi-Tennd.
Turning round, we have before us
an exquisite view of foliage.

The oratory and chapel of this
mausoleum are less magnificent
than those of leyasu. The former
is crowded with the insignia of
Buddhism. Two large horn lanterns
pointed out as Korean are evidently
Dutch. The Tomb is reached by
flights of steps up the side of the
hill on the r. of the chapel. It is of
bronze, and in the same style as
that of leyasu, but of a darker hue.
The gates in front, likewise of
bronze, are covered with large San-
skrit characters in shining brass.

3. — Objects of Minok Inteeest.

Besides the mausolea of the
Shoguns, there are various objects
at Nikkd possessing a lesser degree
of interest. All are within a short
distance of the great temples, and
may be combined within the limits
of a forenoon. One of these is the
Hongu, a temple dedicated to the
Shinto god Ajisuld-taka-hikone,
whose name imphes that he was
mighty mth the spade. This temple
was built by Shodo Shonin in A.D.
808, close to the Buddhist monas-
tery which he had founded. It is
reached by ascending the stone
steps that face the end of the
bridge, and then turning to the
right. The small temple, near the
three-storied pagoda in the same
enclosure, is dedicated to the Horse-
headed Kwannon.

About 4" hr. walk from the Hon-
gu, up the Inari-kawa valley to the
r. of leyasu's mausoleum, stands
the 8an-no-miya, a small red
shrine surrounded by a stone
balustrade. Women here offer up
pieces of wood, similar in shape
to those used in the Japanese
game of chess, in the belief that
this will enable them to pass safe-
ly through the perils of childbirth.
Beside it is the Kaisan-do, a red-
lacquered building 36 ft. square,
dedicated to Shodo Shonin, the
•' pioneer of the mountain," as the
name implies. Peeping through
the grating which forms the window
on the E. side, we see an image of
Jizo occupying a lofty position, with
the efdgy of the saint below, and
those of ten disciples ranged r. and
1. Behind are the tombs of the
saint and three of his disciples.
At the base of the rugged and pre-
cipitous rock at the back of the
Kaisan-do are some rude Buddhist
images, from which the hill takes
its name of Holoke-iwa. On the
summit of this hill stands the tomb
of leyasu. Proceeding along the
stone-paved avenue, we pass a small
shrine sacred to Tenjin. A large
stone close to the path on the r.,
just beyond this, is called the Te-
kake-ishi, or Hand-touched Stone,
said to have been sanctified by the
imposition of Kobd Daishi's hands.
Fragments of it are valued as a
protection against noxious in-
fluences. Further on is a stone
bearing a half-efliaced inscription,
erected over the spot where lies the
horse which carried leyasu at the
decisive battle of Seki-ga-hara, in
the year 1600. After the death of
the master whom he had borne ta
victory, the horse was set free in
the mountains of Nikko, and died
in 1630. The next object to be
noticed is an immense cryptomeria,
7 ft. in diameter a little above the
base, called the li-mori no sugi,
from the supposed resemblance to a
heap of boiled rice which its
pendent branches present. The

206

Route 17. — Nikko and Ghuzevji.

tree is said to have been planted by
a deputation representing 800
BiiddMst nuns of the proYince of
Wakasa. Close to the path on the
1. is the Somen-ga-taki, or Vermicelli
Cascade, so called fi-om a fancied
likeness to a bowl of that food.
Another and prettier name given to
it is Shira-ito, " White Thread."

A short way beyond stands the
temple of Takino-o, founded at the
beginning of the 9 th century,
and dedicated to Tagori-Hime.
The curiosities of this spot — a fa-
vourite one for short picnics — are
the Sam-hon Sufji, three sacred
cryptomeria trees enclosed by a
palisade ; the pool called Sake no
Izumi, fi'om a tradition that pure
sake once welled up fi'om it, as
water does at the present day ; and
a large stone, the KG-dane-isfd, to
which prayers for offspring are
offered up by the childless.

A pleasant way back to the
hotels leads by the path (seen
on the 1. just below Romen-ga-taM,
as we came up the avenue) over
the ravine to Futa-ara Jinja. At
the top of the ravine stands a
small shidne called the Gijoja-dd,
where iron sandals ^ndth strings of
twisted iron are hung up by pilgrims
who pray for the muscular develop-
ment of their lower Kmbs. The
path leading up behind the Gyoja-do
is that taken for the ascent of
Nyoho-zan described on p. 208.

4. — WAiiKS rs" THE Xkighboue-

HOOD.

1. The Public Garden [Koen-
chi) and other fine landscape gar-
dens in Japanese style, — all ^vithin
a few minutes of the hotels.

2. Gamraan-ga-fuclii. About
20 min. walk from the bridge, along
the coui'se of the Daiya-gawa, is a
deep pool called G-amman-ga-f uchi.
A hut has been erected here close
to the boiling eddies, opposite to a
precipitous rock on which is en-
gi'aved the Sanskrit word Maimnam.
It seems impossible that any one

should have been able to get across
to perform the work, and so it is
ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who ac-
complished the feat by throwing
his pen at the rock. But there is
authority for attributing it to a
disciple of Jigen Daishi, only two
centiuies ago. On the r. bank of
the river stand a large number of
images of Amida ranged in a long
row, many of them, alas I mutilat-
ed thirty years ago by native van-
dalism.

It is asserted that they always count
up difleiently, however often the attempt
be made, — a belief bearinsc a curious
resemblance to the superstition which
prevailed regarding the Druidical stones
in various parts of Euglaud. The largest
of these images was some years ago wash-
ed down the river by a flood as far as
Imaichi, arriving there in perfect safety.
It now stands at the E. end of that town,
with its face towards Niklio, wearing a
pink bib and receiving much adoration
from the country folk.

3. Dainichi-do, just beyond
Gamman-ga-fuchi, on the 1. bank
of the liver, merits a visit for
the sake of its prettily arranged
garden. The water rising from a
spring in one of the artificial ponds,
is considered the purest in the
neighbourhood of Nikko.

4. Toyama. The nearest emi-
nence fiom which an extensive ■siew
of the plain can be obtained is To-
yama, a hill rising up somewhat
in the form of a huge animal cou-
chant on the 1. bank of the Inari-
gawa, which flows down by the
side of the temples. Fi-om the
bridge to the top is | hr. climb.
The last bit of the ascent is steep.
The large mountain seen on the
extreme 1. is Keicho-zan, also called
Takahara-yama ; right oiDposite is
the long ridge of Haguro-yama.
Tsukuba's double peak is unmis-
takable. Turning round, we see
the whole of the magnificent range
formed by Nantai-zan, 0-3Ianago,
Ko-ilanago, Nyoh5-zan, and Aka-
nagi.

5. Kirifuri-no-taki, or the
llist-falling Cascade. By taking a
wide sweep round the base of To-

Walks near Nikko.

207

yama and over tmdnlating country
to the S., this cascade may be
reached in 1\ hr. A tea-house on
the hill above commands a pictiar-
esqiie view of the fall ; and from
the top of a knoll just beyond the
tea-house, a grand view is obtained
of the country towards the E., S.,
and W. A steep and rough path
leads down to the foot, where
the fall is seen to better advantage.

6. Makkura-daki, or Pitch-
dark Cascade. On leaving Kirifuri,
we retrace the path for a few steps,
and then follow another to the r.
for about 2 m. This path crosses
the stream above Kirifuri three
times, and then passing over a hill,
leads to another stream.

[Just before the first crossing, a
path down the stream leads in
2 or 3 min. to a small fall called
Chdji-taki.'\
Here we leave the path and plunge
into a thicket, keeping the stream
on the r., a short rough climb bring-
ing us to Makkura-daki, a fall of
about 60 ft. in height. The best
view is obtained from a point a few
yards up the hill to the 1. The
fall shows prettily through the
trees as it is approached, and al-
together well repays the toil of
reaching it. As the path is easUy
mistaken, it is advisable to procure
a guide, who will also be able to
lead one back to Nikko a different
way.

7. Jakko (the site of the temple
of Jakko, and Nana-taki cascade).
The way lies through the village of
Irimachi, where the Crown Prince
has a palace, and turns off at right
angles just before descending to
the bridge, from which it is 40 min.
walk further to the temple of
Jakko. The edifice that stood here
was burnt down in 1876, and the
splendid avenue of pines and cry-
pto merias which formed the ap-
proach has been ruthlessly destroy-
ed. Behind the site of the temples
is a cascade, or rather a series of falls
about 100 ft. in height. It goes by
various names, one being Nana-

taki, and must not be confounded
with the other falls of the same
name mentioned on p. 208.

8. The Deer Park {Go Ryodd).
About half-way between Irimachi
and Jakko, a path turns off r., lead-
ing up a small valley in which the
Deer Preserves are situated. The
animals, which are larger than the
native breed, were presented by the
Emperor of Germany. Five min.
walk takes one to the keeper's
hol^se, where the presentation of a
visiting card will ensure admission.
At the top of the ravine (15 min.
walk), two pretty cascades fall over
rocky beds. The coolness of this
spot makes it a favourite one for
picnics.

9. Urami-ga-taki, or Back
View Cascade, 50 ft. high, derives
its name from the possibility of
passing behind and under the fall.
The road, 1 hr. on foot or by jin-
riMsha, turns to the r. shortly after
crossing an affluent of the Daiya-
gawa ; and from the tea-houses by
the side of a stream, the remainder
of the way is an easy climb of 5
cho. Passing under the fall and up
the ravine on the other side, one
obtains a picturesque view of the
rocky basin overhung with trees, of
the cascade, and of the deep pool
into which it tumbles. Another
basin with a email cascade falUng
into it lies some 5 min. behind the
main fall. — One can get into the
Jikwan road (next walk. No. 10)
fi'om Urami by a path straight up
the hill behind the tea-shed.

Urami may also be conveniently
visited on the way back from Chu-
zenji, by taking the path which
branches off 1. a little below Uma-
gaeshi, and by tm'ning to the 1.
again at Klyotaki, where a path
leads through the woods for a
distance of about 1 ri to the tea-
houses above mentioned.

10. Jikwan-no-taki (cascade).
After crossing the stream by the
side of the tea-houses below Urami,
a path will be found r, a few steps
beyond. It leads up the hill for a

208

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

little over 1 mile, to a point where it
divides, the r. leading to Jikwan, the
1. to Xantai-zan. At Jikwan there is
a pretty effect of water falling in a
dozen streams over a ledge of rock.
The view from the top of the fall
down the valley is very fine. About
1 m. below Jikwan, and visible
from a small clearing at the edge
of the bill on the way up, is another
fall called Jikican Hatsune.

11. Naka-iwa. This excursion,
8 m. from Nikko, mostly on the flat
and ujider shade, affords an oppor-
tunity of seeing a portion of the
great avenue, and can be done in
jinriMsha. Naka-iwa, as the name
implies, is a huge rock in the middle
of the river Kinugawa, at one of its
most pictiiresque parts, where the
divided stream is spanned by two
bridges. The way hes down the
avenue as far as the town of Ima-
ichi, whence it turns N. along the
main road leading to the province
of Aizii. On an eminence close to
the bridges and overlooking the
Naka-iwa, stands a tea-house suit-
able for picnicking. One may also
visit the curious massive boulders
called Eago - ma {" palanquin
rocks "), 1 hr. further down the 1.
bank of the river, or 45 min. along
the r. bank. The latter way some-
times involves the fording of a
stream. On the other hand it
shortens the return journey, as the
jinriMshas may be sent back to the
hamlet of Kura-ga-saki, which
can be rejoined in 45 min. by a
pleasant path through the wood
from the Kago-iwa direct . The rail-
way from Imaichi may also be
availed of on the return to Nikko.

12. Ascent of Nyolio-zaii.
This is the best of all the moun-
tain climbs near Nikko. It is a
whole day's excursion, and an early
start should consequently be made.
There are two ways up, either via
Nana-taki — (" the Seven Cascades "),
or via the Rtjimi-toge. By the
former route, which commands the
most extensive views, an average
"walker will require oj hrs., includ-

ing stoppages, for the ascent, and
3 hrs. for the descent. There is no
water on the mountain, except at
a spring some 10 min. below the
log-hut on the S. side. Snow may
be found close to this hut as late
as the first days of July. The way
for pedestrians lies past the temple
of Puia-ara Jinja and a shrine
called the Gyoja-do. Here take a
narrow track to the 1. through the
wood, leading, after f hr. easy
walking with a short climb at the
end, to a large stone known as the
Sessho-seki, which bears an inscrip-
tion to notify that the slaughter of
game is prohibited on these hills.
(The best way for horses and kagos
leads a short distance over the Jakko
road to a zigzag path clearly visible
on the hill to the r., and joins the
path already mentioned at the
Sesso-seki.) Eight ahead rises a
peak called Akappori, conspicuous
by its precipitous face of red vol-
canic sti'ata. The path continues
up the grassy spur in front. In
IJ hr. from the Sessho-seki we
arrive at a ruined hut called Happu,
and 5 min. later come to the
edge of a precipice overlooking a
gigantic chasm, apparently the
remains of an ancient crater that
has been broken away by water on
the S.E. side, where the Inari-gawa
has its source. From Akanagi-san
an almost unbroken crater wall
extends westward to Akappori,
This secondary crater appears not
to have been very deep, as its pre-
sent floor, out of which descends
one of the seven cascades that
supply the Inari-gawa, is high
above the greater chasm immediate-
ly in front of us. A projecting
spur divides the upper from the
lower crater, and above it on the
1. rises a lesser peak named Shaku-
jo-ga-take. The falls are seen
from the edge of the precipice ;
and though they are insignificant,
the walk to this point is one of the
most dehghtful in the neighbour-
hood, affording entrancing views.
(The excursion as far as Nana-taki

Ascent of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan.

209

and back occupies from 5 to 6 hrs.)
The path hence mnds to the 1. not
far from the edge of the chasm, at
first very steeply, and then through
the wood to a large hut in If hr.
We are now at the foot of the final
cUmb, which will occupy not more
than I hr. more. The summit, on
which stands_ a small shrine
dedicated to Onamuji, is 8,100 ft.
high. To the N. it commands a
magnificent view over a sea of
lower mountains, among which lie
the secluded valleys of Kuriyama.
To the N. E., Nasu-yama is ren-
dered conspicuous by the smoke
rising fi-om its crater, while fur-
ther N. is seen Bandai-san. To
the E. is Takahara-yama, which also
has the appearance of a volcano. On
the immecUate W. of the sjiectator
is Akakura, merely a continuation
of Nyoh5-zan, then Ko-manago,
0-Manago, and Nantai-zan. Be-
tween AJiakura and Ko-Manago we
look across to Taro-zan. Senj5-ga-
hara is partly \isible, and beyond
it the bare volcanic summit of
Shirane. Further to the S. W. are
seen Asama-yama, Yatsu-ga-take,
and numerous other peaks probably
belonging to the Hida-Shinshu
range. The upper half of Fuji
rises S. over the long horizontal
line of the Chichibu mountains.
Away in the plain to the E. and S.
are perceived the broad and deep
Kinugawa, stretches of the Tone-
gawa, the vUl. of Nikko with
avenues marking the Nikkd Kaido
and Reiheishi Kaido, and far away
on the horizon, Tstikuba-san.

The way by the Fujimi-toge is
also beautiful, and offers the ad-
vantage that a much further dis-
tance may be ridden and less need
be walked, as horses go up as far
as the torii at the entrance to
the mountain precincts. Leaving
Nikko, the path turns r. beside the
first house on the r. below Urami.
For about 4 m. beyond Urami it is
rough, — a portion to be avoided
after dusk. Thence it leads for
several mUes through pleasant

sylvan scenery, until it enters a
forest of weird beauty IJ m. from
the foot of Nyoho-zan. The iorii is
reached in 3 hrs., whence the climb
by a winding path, mostly under
the shade of fine trees, occupies 2J
hrs. more.

13. Ascent of Nantai-zan via
Urami. This is the easiest and
pleasantest M^ay of making the as-
cent, though it is true that some
prefer the shorter but steep and
rugged path up from Chuzenji (see
p. 212). Just beyond the tea-
houses below Urami, the path de-
scends to the 1., crosses the stream,
and turns at once to the r., chmb-
ing up through a wood, on emer-
ging from which Nantai-zan, O-
Manago, Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi
are seen in front. After J hr.
walking, we cross the dry bed of a
river, whence up a grassy valley for
another J hr., and reach a sign-post
where a path to the r. diverges to
Nyoho-zan, while the 1. branch
ascends and gradually ^^inds to
the r. Plunging among trees, it
follows up a deep, thickly-wooded
gully, and at last comes to a torii
standing in the depression between
Nantai-zan and 0-Manago. Here
the path forks, the r. brandi passing
the spot from which 0-Manago
is ascended and continuing on
towards Yumoto, while the 1. climbs
up to the Shizu huts (5,550 ft.), where
the back ascent of Nantai-zan com-
mences. Horses may be taken
from Nikko to this spot, time 4
hrs. From Shizu to the summit is
2,600 ft. further, occupying 2^ hrs.
on foot. The way back by the same
route is an easy 5 hrs. walk. Those
intending to return to Nikko, in-
stead of descenchng to Chuzenji,
must make a very early start, as the
path below Shizu is much broken
up, and unsafe after dark.

[Instead of ascending Nantai-
zan, one may walk round its
base to Chuzenji in about 3J
hrs. The route for some dis-
tance follows the path leading

210

Route 17. — Nikko and Chuzenji.

from Shizii to Yumoto, and
about 1 ri after crossing the
bed of a stream, diverges to
the 1., shortly afterwards issu-
ing on the open plain of Senjo-
ga-hara.}

5. — Chuzenji and Neighboxjehood.

Kegon-no-taki. Nantai-zan.

ASHIO.

One of the principal points of
interest near Nikko is beautiful
Lake Cliuzenji (*Lake Side Hotel ;
Kome-ya).

Lake Chuzenji lies at the foot of
Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the
other sides by comparatively low hills
covered with trees to their very summit.
Its greatest length from E. to W. is es-
timated at 3 ri, its breadth at 1 ri. Sound-
ings show the extraordinary depth of 93
fathoms, shallowing down towards Sen.iu
and more rapidly towards Kegon. The
lake, formerly devoid of life, now abounds
with excellent salmon, salmon-trout,
iivana, and other fish, with which it was
stocked between the years 1873 and 1890
by the Japanese (Tovernment. The sal-
mon and salmon-trout can only be taken
with rod and line, whilst the iirana, a
species of white trout which never come
to the fisherman's bait, are taken in the
nets. The height of Lake Chiizenji above
the sea is i,375 ft. Several small temples,
which are visited by the pilgiims, add to
the picturesqueness of its shores.

The road is practicable for jin-
riMshas with two men, not only to
the Till, of Chuzenji, 3 ri 12 cho
from Nikko, but for 2 ri 27 cho
fiirther on to the hot springs of Yu-
moto. But owing to the steepness
of the hill which has to be passed
on the way, ladies and persons un-
able to walk often take " chairs " or
horses. Persons pressed for time
may easily go to Chiizenji and back
in one day ; it is even possible for a
sturdy pedestrian, by making an ear-
ly start, to do the whole distance to
Yiunoto and back within the hmits
of a day. Charming at all times, the
way from Nikko to Chuzenji is
seen at its best late in May or early
in June, when the azalea trees,
some of which are from 10 ft. to 25
ft. high, display their red, white,
and piu-ple blossoms, and the wis-

tarias too are coming into bloom.
Another glorious time is mid-
October, on account of the tints of
the maple leaves.

Leaving Nikko, we follow the
Ashio road along the course of the
Daiya-gawa as far as Futamiya (IJ
ri), where the road to Chuzenji
branches off r., still continuing by
the river-side. This river, which
issues fi'om Lake Chuzenji, is for
most of the year a small and quiet
stream ; but at times it becomes a
dangerous toii'ent, carrying away
roads and embankments. The
ascent is gradual and easy up to the
hamlet of Uma-gaeshi, where there is
a fair inn. Just before reaching
this hamlet, the old path from
Nikko joins the new road. The
road hence for some distance is cut
out of the side of the overhanging
clifE close by the brawhng stream,
and o^ing to landsUps is difficult
to keep in repair. Formerly the
path climbed along the face of
the cliff, and was impassable even
for horses, whence the name of
Uma-gaeshi (see p. 171). The
scenery between Uma-gaeshi and
the Misawa tea-house at the foot of
the actiaal ascent, 20 min. walk, is
wild and j)icturesque. Leaving the
rugged gorge, a udnding path leads
up to a naiTow ridge, where a rest-
ing-hut commands a pretty view
of two cascades called Hannya and
Hodo, at the head of the ravine to
the r. From this point the ascent
to the top, which occuj)ies f hr., is
arduous. Pedestrians may advan-
tageously take the short cuts which
the old road offers. At the charm-
ingly situated tea-house called JVa-
ka no Chaya half-way up, the cooUes
usually make a short halt. A local
cm:iosity is the gishaku-isld, or
"lode-stone." On the siunmit, the
road passes through a wood of oak,
birch, and other trees, many of
which are covered with the long
trailing moss called sarugase
(Lycopodium sieboldi). A path to
the 1. leads to a platform command-
ing a fine view of the cascade of

Walks near Ghuzenji.

211

Keg:on-no-taki. The height of
this fall is aboxit 250 ft. In the
earlier part of the year it occa-
sionally runs almost dry ; but after
the heavy summer rains, it shoots
out over the edge of the over-
hanging precipice in considerable
volume, A good view is obtained
by descending the side of the preci-
pice to a look-out which has been
erected just opposite the fall. It is
possible to get to the foot, for which,
however, a guide from the tea-house
is necessary. The road onwards
soon reaches the shore of the lake,
and enters the vill. of

Ch.\izenji,

This name, written f}i^^, which smacks
of Buddhism, has been officially altered
to Chu^ushi, iji'^jiol , which is Shinto ; but
the old name is still currently used.

which is thronged with pilgrims
for a few days in July or August,
the period for the ascent of Nantai-
zan as a religious exercise varying
from year to year according to the
old lunar calendar. As many as
ten thousand sleep at the vill.
during those few days. At other
times it is a quiet place, for which
reason, and on account of its de-
hghtful surroundings, several of
the European diplomats have here
built their villas.

The prettiest walks involving
little cUmbing are : — ■

1. Along the S. E. shore of the
lake to Ase-ga-hama. (The summit
of the Asegaia-toge, 15 min. climb
through the wood, affords an
interesting view, see No. 5). The
islet close by is Kdzuke-shima, ■with
a pretty shrine. Keturn by boat.

2. To Hhbhu-no-hama, a little
more than half-way along the N.
shore of the lake, 45 min. Return
by boat.

3. To a pretty temple at Senjv,
at the W. end of the lake, close to an
icy brook, — 2| hrs. (Within J hr.
walk fi'om Senju hes Nishi-no-uml,
a tarn nestling beneath the wooded
hills, which at this end recede fi'om
Lake Chuzenji.)

The f oUovidng are expeditions for
cHmbers : —

4. Up the hill opposite Kegon,
leading to Kobu-ga-hara. On reach-
ing the top, 1^ hr., a short walk on
the level brings one to some hiige
gi'anite boulders called Kago-ishi,
which command a magniiicent view.
This would make an alternative
way of returning to Nikkd, by con-
tinuing on to the summit of the
Hoso-o Pass, ^- hr., where the road
from Ashio to Nikko, is joined, 8 m.
more.

5. To the Copper - mines of
Ashio (described in KoTite 19),
which lie within the compass of a
day's excursion from Chuzenji,
but must be done on foot, the
path being impracticable for con-
veyances of any kind. A boat is
taken across the lake to Ase-ga-
hama, J hr., whence a chmb of 8
cho leads through a wood to the
crest of the Asegata-toge, com-
manding a beautiful prospect.
Tier upon tier lise the forest-clad
ridges that close in the valley of
the Watarase. The way down the
pass, for about 1^ ri, lies through
narrow valleys between steep and
scantily wooded hills. A narrow
path, in portions cut out of the
cliff side, in others supported by
planks, has to be traversed before
entering the valley in which the
mines are situated. From here it is
20 min. fiirther to Akakura, the
upper half of the village opposite
which, on the r. bank of the stream,
stand the various buildings con-
nected with the mines.

Those desirous of staying at
Ashio (see p. 216) for the night
can do the rest of the distance —
about 2 m. — in jinrildsha.

6. Ascent of Nantai-zan. This
mountain is considered sacred, and
the priests of the temple at its
base insist on the immemorial rule
whereby women are prohibited
from maldng the ascent. Ladies
can, however, generally go up,
provided they do not pass through
the main gate. The temple, which

212

Route 17. — Nikko and GhuzenjL

stands at the far end of the village,
is said to have been founded by
Shodo Shonin in A.D. 816. The
space between the bronze iorii and
the shrine is holy ground, and
persons in jinrikishas or kagos had
better go along the lower road if
they object to being required to
alight. The gate leading to the
mountain is closed except during
the pilgrim season, when entrance
tickets can be purchased for a smaU
fee. The ascent, occupying about
3 hrs., is extremely steep, and
consists partly of log steps which
are very fatiguing; biit the lovely
view from the summit (8,150 ft.)
well repays the exertion. The best
time to see it is at sunrise ; so a
very early start should be made
with lanterns. On the S. E. Ues
the plain stretching towards Tokyo;
on the W. rises the lofty cone of
Shirane-san ; further S. is K5shin-
zan; below we have the marshy basin
of Senj5-ga-hara, with the stream
meandering through it, Lake Chu-
zenji, a glimpse of Lake Yumoto,
and N. of_Shirane the peaks of
Taro-zan, 0-Manago, Ko-Manago,
and Nyoho-zan. Fuji too is visible
in clear weather. The ascent can
also be made from Yumoto in 4^
hrs. (see next page).

6. l''UMOTO AND NeIGHBOUKHOOD.

Ascent of Shikane-san, and

OF 0-MANAGO AND NaNTAI-
ZAN FROM l''UMOTO.

The road to Yumoto leads past
Shobu-no-hania, to which point
boats may be taken ; then it turns
away fi'om the lake and soon crosses
the Jigoku-no-kawa, a slender
stream which hunies over smooth
rocks. The Byilzu-ga-iaki, or Dra-
gon's Head Cascade, the most
curious of all the cascades in this
neighboru'hood, lies 10 min. from
the lake. Beyond it we emerge on
Senjo-ga-hara, or the Moor of the
Battle-field.

So named on account of an engagement
that took place here in A. D. 1389 between

the partisans o£ the Ashikaga Shoguna
and those of the Southern dynasty of
Mikadoa (see p. 72). An alternative name
is Akanuina-ga-lia I a, or Moor of the Red
Swami), derived from the colour of the
tall dying sedges in autumn.

This wide solitude is bounded on
all sides by forests, above which
rise the peaks of Nantai-zan, O-
Manago, Ko-Manago, and Taro-
zan. (This last, wliich makes an
easy day's excursion from either
Chuzenji or Y'umoto, has an extinct
crater at its summit.) Far away on
the 1. is a wooded elevation, in the
centre of which the cascade of Yu-
no-faki ajipears like a silver thread.
Above this rises the volcano of
Shirane-san, the only bare peak in
the vicinity. The road crosses the
plain to a point not far from Y'u-no-
taki, which giishes over a smooth
black rock at an angle of GO'*, form-
ing a stream that feeds Kyuzu-
ga-taki, and finally falls into Lake
Chuzenji. Its perpendicular height
is 220 ft. A steep path by its side
leads up to the toj), some 60 yds.
from the shore of Lake Yumoto,
which is so called from the hot
springs at its further end. This
lake, though smaller than Lake
Chuzenji, is still more beaiitiful.
The maples and other trees here,
in October, display the most
glorious tints that can be imagined.
The irises also are a wonderful
sight in July. The road -winds
through the wood along the E. side
of the lake to the small \ill. of

Yumoto [Lilt, Namma-ya, semi-
Europ., and numerous Jap. inns),
5,000 ft. above the sea. Here the
water is partially discolom-ed by the
sulphur springs. There ai-e al-
together ten springs, some under
cover, others exposed to the open
ail-, all accessible to the pubhc and
frequented by both sexes promis-
cuously.

Shirane-san is a volcano 8,800
ft. high, which was active as recently
as 188!). The chmb is very rough
ixnd steep, and should not be at-
tempted ^\-ithout a guide. For the

Route 18. — From C'huzeuji to Ikao over the Konsei-toge. 213

ascent allow 4^ hrs., for the
descent, 3 hrs. ; but considerable
time is needed for a stirvey of the
top, so that a whole day is none
too much for the expedition.
There is no water on the mountain
side. The first part of the climb
is the roughest of all, leading over
Mae-Shirane (" fi-ont Shirane "), a
ridge which looks as if it had been
part of the wall of a crater, and that
within comparatively recent times
a new and higher cone had been
formed inside its W. limb, which
had nearly filled up the original
crater, leaving only the interven-
ing valley on its E. side, the bottom
of which slopes off from the centre
N. and S. The N. end contains a
tarn of a remarkable green colour.
Descending from Mae-Shirane, we
cross the old crater floor, and then
ascend Shirane proi^er (Oku-Shira-
ne). The cone has a great rent
down the side, which is kept on
the r. in going up, and a deep
crater at the tojj whose edges are
very rotten. From the top, which
is honeycombed with other small
craters, the view is superb.

The way leading to O-Manago
takes one first along the Chtizenji
road as far as some houses on the
edge of Senj6-ga-hara. It then skirts
the N. side of the moor, passing
through a thick wood and bearing
towards the depression between
Nantai and 0-Manago, "2^ hrs. to a
point where the path forks near a
shrine containing a stone image of
Sh5zuka-no-Baba, with a strange
medley of ex-votos hanging outside.
The 1. branch leads to 0-Manago,
the r. branch to the Shizu huts and
on to Nikko. From the junction
of the paths, it takes i lii'- to reach
the torii at the base of O-Manago.
The distance to the summit is 1 ri
8 cho, the real ascent beginning at
a bronze image of Fudo. The last
bit is over precipitotis rocks, where
chains are fixed to assist the climb-
er. On the top stands a wooden
shrine, with a bronze image behind

it, said to be Kunitoko-tachi, the
Earth-god. The view is less ex-
tensive than that from Nantai-zan.
In order to ascend

Nantai-zan from this, the
Yumoto side, it is not necessary
to go on to the Shizu huts, which
lie 3- hr. iTom the shrine of Shozuka-
no-Baba mentioned above. Ano-
ther path leads up behind a hut
called Ozaioa-no shuku, 3 cho nearer
Yumoto ; and in this way Nantai-
zan can be ascended ^\ith greater
ease than from Chuzenji. The
whole climb, part of which is stiff,
will take a fair walker 4J hrs. from
Yumoto.

Japanese pUgiims of the old
school make the round of the va-
rious mountains in the vicinity of
Nikko and Chuzenji by ascending
first Nyoho-zan and then Ko-
Manago, descending to a place
called Sabusawa, and ascending O-
Manago from the back. They sleep
at the Shizu hut, climb Taro-zan
in the forenoon, Nantai-zan in the
afternoon, and descend to Chu-
zenji.

ROUTE 18.

Fbom Chuzenji to Lkao over the
Konsei-toge.

Itinerary.

CHUZENJI to :— Ri Cho M.

Yumoto 2 27 6|

Top of Konsei

Pass 1 18 3|

Higashi Ogawa... 4 18 11

Sukagawa 1 18 3f

Okkai 2 — 5

Ohara 18 3

Takahira 1 23 4

NUMATA 2 13 5}

Tanashita 2 15 6

Shibukawa 2 34 7J

IKAO 2 15 6

Total 25 9 61J

214 Route 18. — From Ghuzenji to Ikao over the Konsei-toge.

On this route an idea is gained
of the dense forest that covers
so large a poition of the cen-
tral mountain range ; and the val-
leys of the Katashina-gawa and
Tonegawa, down which most of the
latter part of the way leads, are
highly picturesque The first night
is spent at Higashi Ogawa, and the
second at Numata, Ikao being
reached on the afternoon of the
third day. The means of transport
for baggage on this route are : —
coolies over the Konsei-toge to
Higashi Ogawa, horses not being
taken across the pass ; horses to
Numata, and thence jinrikishas.
Travellers wishing to return to
Tokyo "n-ithout visiting Ikao, can
join the railway at Maebashi or at
TakasakL by tram from Shibu-
kawa (see p. 186).

The way up the Konsei-t5ge is a
continuous gentle ascent throiigh a
forest with an undergrowth of
bamboo grass, terminating in a
steep climb. From the top of the
pass, on looking round, are seen
the thickly wooded slopes converg-
ing towards the dark waters of
Lalce Yumoto, behind which looms
up in bold relief the massive form
of Nantai-zan, flanked on the 1. by
0-Manago. To the r. a ghmpse is
caught of a portion of Lake Ghu-
zenji, while Tsukuba-san rises
in the distant plain beyond. On
the Kdtsuke side the thick foliage
intercepts all view, and there is an
equal absence of distant prospect
during the whole of the long down-
ward walk, neither is there any
sign of human habitation in the
forest, except a solitary hunter's
hut. Even this is deserted dming
the summer, at which season alone
the tourist will think of coming
this way, since the road is
practically impassable from the
end of November to well on in
March. The foliage is very fine,
and in the higher part of the forest
a peculiar efEect is produced by a
drapery of moss, hanging in gray
filaments fi"om the branches of the

tall conifers. On nearing Ogawa
no Yumoto, — a few huts with
thermal springs about 1 ri from
the viU. of Higashi Ogawa, — the
path follows a stream flowing down
from Shii'ane-san.

Higashi Ogawa (Inn by Kurata
Einzaburo) stands 2,300 ft. above
the sea. The Ogawa, from which
this vill. takes its name, is a small
tributai-y of the Katashina-gawa,
itself an affluent of the Tonegawa.
Leaving Higashi Ogawa, and con-
tinuing down the valley of the
Ogawa, which is dotted with many
hamlets, we cross over a hill before
reaching

Sukagawa, in the valley of the
Katashina-gawa. From a ridge at
the foot of which lie two hamlets
with curious names, — Uikage Cki-
dori, or Shady Chidori. and Hinata
Chidori, or Sunny Chidori,— there
is a fine \'iew, on looking back, of
this valley stretching far away to
the N. The two hamlets are
situated on opposite sides of the
stream, and connected by a bridge.
Observe the terrace-Uke formation
of the hills at the back of Hilaige
Chidori, and ixll the way on to
below Numata. Three ten^aces at
least 2 m. long are distinctly
marked, each of the lower two being
a few hundred yards ^ride, and the
upper one, surmounted by the
usual irregular ridge, being from
J to I m. wide. The course of these
ridges, which seem to mark the
successive positions of a river bank
at different periods, is S.W. by N.E.
Wenest reach

dKkai (Inn by Hoshino), near
which the river dashes between
perpendicular walls of porphyry.
A hillock behind the inn affords a
delightful view of high rocks, with
trees perched among them and
cascades. There is also a pretty
islet in the river, called Uklshima.

The path now leaves the valley of
the Katashina-gawa, and crossing
a well-cultivated upland, comes to

Ohara (Inn, Kishi-ya), whence it
winds over the hills and up the

Route 19. — Valley of the Watara.-^i'. Ashio.

215

Kazusaka-ioge. The view from this
point is superb, including Haruna-
san, the Koshu Koma-ga-take,
Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, Yaha-
zu-yama, and the Shirane of Kusa-
tsu. At

Takahira, the road becomes
level and practicable for jinrikishas.

Numata (Inn, Odake-ya) stands
on a high plateau overlooking the
valleys of the Katashina and the
Tonegawa. The view of the latter
valley from the N. W. corner of the
town is remarkable, — extensive rice-
fields far below at one's feet, be-
yond them the river, and beyond it
again the moiintains of the Mikuni-
toge. A spare day might be oc-
cupied with a visit to the local
Haruna-san, a sacred hill lying to
the N.

Trout-fishing is briskly carried
on just below the junction of the
two rivers, a portion of the water
being enclosed with stones and
fences running out from each bank
towards the centre of the stream,
where a bamboo i^latform, inclined
at an angle of aboiit 15", is fixed
upon baskets filled with stones.
The water rushes up this platform,
and leaves the fish at the top.
They are then caught, and kept
ahve in perforated boxes which are
placed on the platform. The
scenery onward continues very
picturesque, the road passing high
and rugged chffs that overhang
the Tonegawa. Beyond Tanashita,
the valley expands into a smiling
fertile plain, and the river is lost
sight of till near

Shibukawa (Inn, Maru-man).
This is a town of some size.
Hence to Ikao is, for the most
part, a gentle ascent over grassy
mountain slopes. For a detailed
account of Ik;io and Neighbour-
hood, see Koute 14.

ROUTE 19.

Fkom Nikeo to Ikao by the Valley
or THE Wataease-gawa. The

COPPEE-MINES OF AsHlO.

Ascent of Koshin-zan.
Itinerary.

NIKKO to :— Ei Cho M.

Top of Hoso-o Toge 3 10 8

ASHIO 4 11 lOJ

S5ri 2 21 6|

Godo 2 12 5|

Hanawa 1 — 2|

OMAMA 3 17 ^

Total 16 35 41^

From Omama by train in f hr.
to Maebashi, whence see Route 14.

It is too much to try, even by
an early start, to combine a visit to
the mines and reach Ashio within
the limits of one day from Nikkd.
The works he in a side valley 30
cho, or 2 m. from the vUl. of Ashio,
where one must stay, and which
should not be confounded with
the vill. that has grown up around
the mines. Travellers not follow-
ing this route, but making the
round to Chtizenji, take the mines
on their second day (see p. 211).
Apphcation for permission to in-
spect the works should be made at
the head office in Tokyo.

The road from Nikko to Ashio
over the Hoso-o Pass, whose siun-
mit rises 4,100 ft. above sea-level, is
very rough, but generally i^racti-
cable for jinrikishas. Pedestrians
may avail themselves of numerous
short cuts on the way up. The va-
rious rope- ways — besides the main
one connecting Nikko with Ashio —
seen on the far side of the pass,
bring down charcoal for the use of
the mines. At the vill. of Miko-
uchi, pedestrians shoiild follow the
tramway which here diverges 1.,
while the main road goes straight
on ; the former is generally in
better repair. The Watarase-gawa
is reached before entering

216

Route 19. — Ash 10.

Ash.io (Inns, Tsiini-ya, Izunii-
ya). This place, famed for its cop-
per mines, which are the most pro-
ductive in Japan, and said to be the
largest in the Far East, lies in a
deep valley at an altitude of aboTit
2,300 ft. The Mines, of which
there are two in the neighbourhood,
bear respectively the names of
Ashio and Kotaki, the former and
more important being situated on
the eastern side of the moun-
tain, the latter on the western.
Jinrildshas are available as far as
the Ashio mines (Dnzan), to visit
which one's steps must be retraced
to the end of the town, where one
leaves the green valley of the
"Watarase-gawa for a smoke-laden,
foiU-smelling region, with the hills
deniided of eveiy particle of wood.
Gigantic iron pipes lead down fi-om
neighbouring heights to work the
turbines, tramways run in all
directions, the bare red hillsides
are scooped out here and there for
the miserable huts of the miners.
the air resounds v.-ith the clang of
hammers, while the huge furnaces
vomit forth clouds of poisonous
vapour which, on a hot still day,
hang like a pall over the valley.
The electricity for the motors is
generated by water-power at a
station which is passed 1 m. before
entering Ashio. Mato, the lower
half, and Akakura, the upper, com-
bine to form one large \all. on the
1. bank of a stream running in a
deep ravine. On the opposite side
stands the forest of chimneys of
the smelting-works, together with
engine-rooms, workshops, and other
buildings.

The ore is found in a matrix of clay,
calcite, and quartz, and is almost entirely
the pyrite or copper sulphide, although a
small quantity of oxide also occurs. The
lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in width. The
average yield is 19 per cent of metal, and
the total annual product of linished
metal from the two mines reaihes the
remarkable figure of G.OOO tons. The
adits from the Ashio side are being pushed
forward to meet those working in the
opposite direction from Kotaki, approxi-
mately 1 n distant. A rope-way some

3 m. in length has been constructed
over the Hoso-o Pass for convenience of
transport It consists of a continuous
steel-rope, 6 m. long, carried on posts,
and revolving on two drums, one at each
end. Immense hooks are fastened to the
rope by thin copper bands at a distance
of about 80 or 100 yds. apart, the ascend-
ing line carrying bags of coke or coal,
the descending, bars of smelted ore
weighifig .58 lbs. each. At some points
the wire is several hundreds of feet above
the ground. The tramway on the Nikko
side is 5k m. in length, and there are
about '20 m. altogether on the Ashio side.
The undertaking is in Japanese hands,
but the most modem European processes
are in operation. Owing to damage done
to the crops by the poisonous discharges
from the mine, and to consequent agita-
tion amongst the farmers living along the
course of the Watarase-gawa into which
the stream flows, an ingenious series of
filters has been fitted up for the purifica-
tion of the water after it has done its
work. Even these, however, cannot restore
to the water the purity necessary for
rice cultivation The agitation is there-
fore naturally jenewed from year to year,
and threatens serious complications.

[An extra day at Ashio may well
be devoted to visiting the
wondei'ful rocks of Kosliin-
zan. (The Kotaki mines lie
on the way to Koshin-zan : but
it is diflticult to do the rocks
and the mines in one diiy.)
JinriMshas may be taken as
far as the mines, about 3 m.,
whence to the point called
Bessho, 4,500 ft., where the
rock scenery begins, the dis-
tance is estimated at 6 m. In
order to -^-isit the rocks, it
is necessary to engage the
services of a guide who hves
at the hiTt. The whole roimd
■«-ill take about 2^ hrs., and is
perfectly safe for all except
those who are apt to be trou-
bled with dizziness.

Leaving the hut by the path
on the S. side, we commence
the round of the rocks, scram-
bUng u^i and down the steejiest
places imaginable, traversing
ileep ra^^nes on rough log
bridges, and crawUng round the
face of precipices by the iiid of
iron chains and of steps cut
in the solid rock. For such

Koshin-zan. The Watarase-gawa.

217

hard work, waraji are of great
convenience. A point called
Mi-harashi commands a mag-
nificent prospect of the dense
forest-covered mountains be-
low, and Tsukuba-san in the
distant plain. Behind, the eye
rests upon the gigantic rock-
work, amidst which conifers
have perched themselves in
inaccessible nooks and cran-
nies. To the varioiis features
of the landscape, more or less
fanciful names have been
given. The most striking are
the ISan-ju-san-gen, a mass of
precipices dedicated to Kwan-
non ; the Spring dedicated to
Yakiishi, the waters of which
are believed to be efficacious
in cases of eye disease ; the
Kinoko-seki, or Mushroom
Rock, beyond which comes the
Yagura-seki, supposed to re-
semble the towers on the walls
of a fortress ; next the Urand-
ga-taki, or Back View Cascade,
which falls from a ledge above
in silvery threads. The huge
precipice close by is called the
Go-shiki no seki, or Kock of
the Five Colours. The guide
points out a rock, the Men-seki,
m which a remote likeness to
a human face may be traced.
Above this is the Go-ju no To,
or Five-storied Pagixla, and
near it, a small natural arch
called Ic.hi no mon. Crawl-
ing through this, M'e couie to
the Bonji-seki, or Sanski'it
Character Rocks, next passing
the Baiko-dani, a deep gully
siipposed to have some occidt
relation with the origin of
thunder-storms ; the Tdro-iira,
or Stone-lantern Rock ; the
Fitji-mi-seki, whence the upper
half of Fuji is seen ; the Shishi-
seki, or Lion Rock ; the Ogi-
itoaya, or Fan Cavern ; and
the Z^seki, or Elephant Rock.
Next we come to where a huge
natural bridge, called the Ama
no hashi. or Hridge of Heaven.

used to span the ravine until
destroyed by an earthquake in
1824. On the other side is a
hole about 6 ft. in diaiueter,
called Ni no mon, or Second
Gate, where the bridge termi-
nated. From this point, ascend-
ing a very narrow crevice by
the aid of chains, the path
reaches the Mi-harashi already
mentioned. Then passing be-
hind a precipitous detached
rock, called Byobu-iica from its
resemblance to a screen, we
ascend a gorge, and finally
reach the Oku-no-in (5,4.50 ft.),
Avhere in three caverns are small
shrines dedicated to the three
Shinto deities Onamuji, Saruta-
hiko, and Sukuna-biliona. It
was the second of these whose
worship was originally esta-
blished on this mountain under
the title of Koshin. On turn-
ing the corner just beyond, we
see the tops of Nantai-zan and
O-Manago liearing about N.,
and descending the hillside,
reach Bessho again in 25 min.
fi'om the Oku-no-in. The des-
cent to the hiats at the base of
the mountain will take nearly
2^- hrs.]
The scenery the whole way along
the banks of the Watarase-gawa
is dehghtful, and especially between
Ashio and (Jodo cpiite romantic.
Sometimes the road, carried out on
piles, actually overhangs the liver,
which now flows on in a perfectly
l^lacid course, while in other places
it foams and dashes amidst tremen-
dous boulders. Beyond

Sori (Inn, Komats>;-ya), a glade
of fine cryptomerias attests the
priestly care formerly bestowed on
the temple of Tenno. The road
then winds up and down the thick-
ly wooded side of the valley, high
above the iiishing waters of the
river to

Godo [Inn, Tama-ya) and
Sanawa ( Inn, AVakamatsu-ya).
After the latter place it becomes
less picturescpie. leading for most

218

Route 20. — Shiobara and Nasu.

of the way across a cultivated
plateau. The vill. seen on the r.
bank of the river beyond Hanawa
is Miziinitma (Tnn, Midori-ya), from
which it is possible to ascend Aka-
gi-san by a shorter, though rougher,
route than that given on p. 189.
Large quantities of trout are taken
both with the fly and the net in the
Watarase-gawa, which is rejoined
jusj above

Omama (Inn, Tsuni-ya), see
p. 196.

ROUTE 20.

Shiobaea and Nasu.
fcexjmachi. ascent of keicho-zan.

NASU-YAMA.

(Conf. map facing p. 197.)

Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Yamato-
ya) is reached by the Northern
Railway from Tokyo in 4J hrs. (see
Koute 65). This place is an out-
come of railway enterprise ; so too
is the reclamation of a large extent
of the moorland which here
stretches on all sides, the soil hav-
ing been found well-adapted to the
cultivation of fruit. Nishi Nasuno is
the nearest station to the various
favourite hot spring resorts of the
district of Shiobara, which are
much fi-equented by all classes of
Japanese. The itinerary of the
jiniikisha road from the station is
as follows :

NISHI NASUNO to :—

Ei Cho M.

Seldya 3 — 7J

Owami 1 18 3|

Fukuwata 24 1^

Shiogama 13 1

FURUMACHI... 8 J

Total 5 27 14

As far as Sekiya, at the foot of
the mountains, the road is level
and runs in a straight line across
the plain, which is covered with
dwarf chestnut-trees, — a part of
the journey apt to be trying
in summer, owing to the total
absence of shade. Shortly after
Sekiya, we enter the highly
picturesque valley of the Hokigawa,
with lofty and densely wooded
hills on either side. At various
points glorious views are afforded
of the river rushing over its boulder-
strewn bed, while numerous cas-
cades lend variety to the landscape.
The Owami springs, with a hut or
two, are seen from the roadway, at
the bottom of an almost precipitous
descent. They he in the bed of
the river, and are used only by the
lioorest class of patients.

Fukuwata (Inns, *Shofuro and
others) is, next to Furumachi, the
most poptdar bathing resort in the
district. A few min. from Fuku-
wata, on the oppo?;ite side of the
river, is a spot known as Fudo-ga-
saica. With its crystal-clear water,
its rocks and cascades, and a walk
under the shade of variegated
trees, it produces the impression of
landscape gardening on a large
scale. At the entrance to the hamlet
of Shiogama, a stone has been erect-
ed to the memory of the famous
courtesan, Takao, who was born
near this spot.

She was mistress of Date Tsunamune,
second Daimyo of Sendai (eonf. p. 126),
who lived in the latter half of the 17th
century. The family broils and crimes,
of which this intrigue formed one link,
are dramatised in a popular play called
Sendai Hagi.

Here a bridge crosses the river,
leatling to the hot springs of Shio-
no-yu, 16 cho, situated in the bed of
an affluent of the Holdgawa, a place
chiefly resorted to by poor folks.

Furumachi (Inns, Ftisen-ro,
Kome-ya) lies on the r. bank of the
river, and is the principal viU. in
the district. It is shut in by
mountains which rise in beautiful-

Furumachh Arayu. Aacent of Keicho-zan.

219

ly wooded peaks, one above another,
around it. Althongh situated at
no great height (1,850 ft.), Furu-
machi is cooler than many places
at higher altitudes, and suffers less
from mosquitoes and other insect
pests. 'I'he whole vicinity is dotted
with thermal springs. The water
at Furumachi is moderate in tem-
perature and mostly fx-ee from
mineral deposit ; the other springs
are somewhat sahne. A favoiirite
midday resort for visitors at Furu-
machi is Sumaki or Taki-no-yu (9
cho), in a hollow of the hills. Here
the M'ater is led in pipes from a
spring just above the inn, and a hot
douche may be taken. The temple
of Myo-onji, a plain thatched struc-
ture in the vill., is of little interest.
The only relic in the possession of
the priests — and it is an odd relic
in a place of worsliip — is an article
of the wardrobe of the frail beauty
above mentioned. Amongst the
prettiest cascades in the neighbour-
hood are :_ Senshin-no-tald, Hoko-
no-taki, Ohata-no-taki, and HeM-
reM-no-tald.

A pleasant excursion may be
made to Arayu, lit. " the Violent
Spring," 2 ri fi'om Furvimachi.
The path leads directly behind the
Kome-ya inn at the head of the
vill., and over the hills in sharp
zigzags. Distant views are obtained
on the way, — an exception to the
generally shut-in character of all
this neighbourhood.

[Near the top of the pass, on the
]., is a tarn called Onuma. A
smaller, called Konnma, situat-
ed in a deeper hollow, is not
visible from the road. A path
follows the upper edge of these
tarns down to the Shio-no-yu
springs, and also miikes a
good walk from Furumachi.]

Arayu, a cluster of meiiioere
inns, hes on the side of a hill ren-
dered barren by the sulphurous
water that biibbles forth in several
spots, giving the phice a desolate
aspect. It lies on a mountain road

to Nikko frequently taken by
pedestrians. The distances are ap-
proximately as follows : —

Arayu to : — Bi Cho J/.

Fujiwara 5 — 12|-

Okuwa 3 — 7J-

Imaichi 1 15 3^

Total 9 15 23

Thence train to Nikko in J^ hr.
The inns on the way are poor.

Arayu is the best starting-point
for the ascent of Keicho-zan, 3 J
ri, one of the peaks of Takahnra-
yama (5,880 ft.), a sacred mountain,
and one of the highest of the
range separating the provinces
of Shimotsulte and Iwashiro. The
climb up it is somewhat rough and
monotonous for about 1 hr., all
view being shut out by woods and
low ridges on both sides until the
bed of the Akagawa is reached,
where the ascent of the Tafcihara-
toge begins. From the top of the
jia?s to the small lake of Benfen-rja-
ike is a liistance of 1 ri, and to
the summit a steep pull of 20 cho
more. The view from the summit
is very extensive, embracing Fuji,
Nantai-zan, Gwassan, Ede-san,
Bandai-san, and numerous minor
peaks. The shrine on Keicho-zan
is dechcated to Saruta-hilto. Those
wishing to make the ascent from
Furumachi in one day must start
early. An alternative is to take it
on the way to Nikko.

The active volcano of Nasu-yama
(0,300 ft.) is best reached fi-om
Kuroiso {Inn, Tabako-ya) on the
Northern Railway, whence jin-
rikisha ■«'ith two men — or pack-
horse — for 4 ri 20 cho (11 m.) to
Nasu (Inn, *Komatsii-ya), at the
mountain's base, 2,750 ft. above
sea-level. A good deal of sulphur
is produced in the neighbourhood.

The baths of Nasu are very ancient,
havini; been established in the reign of
Jomei Tenno (A. D 029.641). and have a

220 Roate 21. — The Provinces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu.

high local reputation for efficacy in skin
diseases. The inns formerly stood a little
higher up the river, at a spot called Yu-
moto on the old maps, but were removed
to their present site a few years ago. The
Komatsu-ya has been in the same family
for six centuries .

Other noted bathing resorts on
NasiT-yama, which is literally
honeycombed with solfataras, are
AsaM Onsen (3,700 ft.), Benten (4,200
ft.), Omaru, a httle further np, and
Sando-goya on the other side of the
pass leading to the district of Aizii.

Seven cho from Nasu, in a bleak
spot near the river-bed, once stood
the Sessho-sekl, or " Death-stone, "
famous in a legend which has been
dramatised as one of the No, or
Lyric Dramas, of medisrval Japa-
nese hterature.

The story is that a Buddhist priest. Gen-
no by name, while journeying across
the desolate moor of Nasu, pauses to rest
beneath this rock. A spirit forthwith
appears and warns him that, by remain-
ing iu this place, he is risking his life, for
that not men only, but even birds and
beasts perish if they do but touch it. The
spirit and the chorus then recount to him
in verse how once upon a time there lived
a maiden, as learned and accomplished
as she was surpassingly beautiful, whom
the Emperor Toba no-In tuok to himself
as his favourite concubine, and for her
sake neglected all the affairs of state. At
last one evening?, on the occasion of a
banquet at the Palace, the light.s suddenly
went out, and from the girl's body there
darted forth a supernatural coruscation
that illumined the whole scene, while
the Mikado himself was struck down by
disease. On the representations of the
court magician, Abe-no-Yasunari, the vile
witch — for the pretended beauty was
evidently nothing better than a witch —
was driven from the Imperial presence,
and flew away through the air to the
moor of Nasu, where she resumed her
original shape, that of a fox. In the
second act of the play, the spirit, appear-
ing again, confesses to the good priest
that itself is none other than the wraith
of the witch whose story has just been
told, and relates furthermore how, after
escaping from the Palace, she was hunted
by dogs over the moor of Nasu, — the
origin, as the chorus obligingly stops to
explain, of the .Japanese sport of inu ou
mono, or " dog-hunting." The priest then
exorcises the evil spirit by means of
Buddhistic incantations.

The stone itself no longer exists ;
but the poisonous exhalations

which still issue from the ground
on which it stood are destructive,
not only to insect life, but, as is
asserted by the peasants, to ani-
mals as well.

The ascent of Nasu-yama Tvill
occupy a little nnder 3 hrs. from
Nasu, the last ^ hr. leading over a
wild chaos of boulders, from
amongst hundreds of which sul-
phnrous vapour constantly rises.
The view from the summit includes
all the higher peaks of this central
range, the Mkko mountains, Asa-
ma, and Fuji. A huge cloud of
steam and vapour, accompanied
by incessant roaring, marks the
present active crater formed by a
destructive outbreak in 1881. It is
situated on the W. side of the
mountain, a little above the jmss
which separates Nasu-yama from
Asahi-dake, and by which the de-
scent is made. This is a delightful
walk of about 2^ hrs.. leading past
several of the mineral springs men-
tioned above.

The baths of Shiobara may con-
veniently be reached from Nasu by
a path through the forest to Seldya
(see p. 218), 6 ri. Horses abound
in this district.

ROUTE 21.

The Provinces of Shimosa,
K.4ZUSA, AND Boshu.

1 . CHIBA, CHOSHI, AND THE LAGOONS.
2. THEOTJGH THE PENINSULA TO
KATSU-UEA, AND EOUND THE SOTTTH
AND WEST COASTS TO KOMINATO,
NOKOGIRI-YAMA, AND KANO-ZAN.

These three provinces form a natural
division of the country. The oinnion of
geologists is that a great part of this
district, whose sands seem to have been
washed up by the sea, toj^ether with the
wide Tokyo plain which is formed by
alluvium washed down from the central
mountain-ranges, was submerged iu quite

Ghiba, Choshi, and the Lagoons.

221

recent times, and that only the southern
half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu
stood up out of the waves. This process
of rising and drying is still going on.
The large lagoons on the lower course of
the Tonegawa gradually .shrink in size,
and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. From
these considerations, it will be inferred
that the northern parts of this district are
somewhat dreary travelling. The S.
portion from Kano-zau downwards, with
tuff ranges which, though not exceeding
1,200 ft., seem higher because rising al-
most directly from the sea, will best
reward the tourist's trouble The coast of
Boshu in particular affords lovely views,
as well as a mild winter climate.

The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu-
sa, and Boshii anciently formed one,
under the name Fusa no Kuni, said to
have been derived from the excellent
quality of the hemp grown there. The
district was subsequently divided into
Upper and liO'j'er, or Kami tsu Fusa and
Shimo tsu Fusa, now contracted into
Kazusa and Sldmosa, and part of the for-
mer was subsequently constituted into
the province of Awa, bettei' known by
Its alternative Chinese name of Boshu.
" Upper " and " Lower " seem to have been
employed to denote the relative proximity
of these two provinces to the ancient
capital. Kazusa, Boshu, and the greater
part of Shimosa now form the prefec-
ture of Chiba.

1. Chiba, Choshi, and the
Lagoons.

the sobu railway.

Names

O ^ lO

a Q i^.

|g«

Remarks

.S*heh

Stations

TOKYO (Honjo)

2im.

Hirai

Koiwa

61^

Ichikawa

Nakayama

111

Funabashi

13S

Tsudanuma

163

Makuhari

19i

Inage

r C h a n g e for

21 :i

CHIBA Jet

s Mubara and
(ichinomiya.

2ei

Yotsukaido

31J

Sakura Jot

( C h a n g e f or
(Narita.

Yachimata

4r;

Hyiiga

44|

Naruto

Matsao

50|

Yokoshiba

55i

Yoka-ichiba

58f

Hikata

61f

Asahi-machi

lioka

66*

Saruda

69J

Matsugishi

CHOSHI

The whole of this railway traver-
ses flat country. Before reaching
Ichikawa, we cross the Yedo-gawa,
where there is often a j)retty view
of boats sailing up the river. The
high wooded bluff on the 1. banlc is
Konodai, now the seat of a military
academy. Five cho from Nakayatna
stands Hokeky5ji, a temjile spe-
cially devoted to the worship of
Kishibojin (see p. 50), and enjoying
considerable local popularity.

Funabashi is a large town. At
Inage, there is a well-known bathing
establishment called KaiM-kwan.

Ch.iba [Inns, Kano-ya, Ume-
matsu-ya) is a prefectural town.
This prefecture ranks next to Yezo
in the abundance of its marine
products, the district of Ku-jii-ku-ri
to the S. of Cape Inuboe afforthng
the richest field. At Imai, just out-
side Chiba, and the succeeding vil-
lages along the coast, a considerable
manufacture of starch from the
sweet potato is carried on. A good
3 m. walk from Chiba is to the an-
cient Temple of Daiganji, standing
in a pine forest where thousands of
cormorants roost and build their
nests.

At Chiba the line leaves the coast,
and strikes N. W. for

Sakura [Inn, Kome-ya), a garri-
son town, 10 cho distant from its
station, and Narita (see p. 147).

Sakura castle was formerly the seat of
the Hotta family, which furnished many
statesmen to the Gorojii, or chief council
of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Its site is now
occupied by barracks.

From Yokoshiba onwards, the

country is very sandy and yet

green, OM-ing to cultivation and
pine- woods.

222 Route '1\. — The Provinces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Bosh a.

Choshi (Inn, Daishin, over 1 m.
from the station) extends for 2^ m.
along the r. bank of the Tonegawa,
which here contracts, and rolls be-
tween sharp rocks into the sea.
The Temple of Kicannon, crowning
an eminence which divides the
town into two halves, commands
an agreeable prospect. Choshi is
noted for its soy, the manufacture
of which may be seen at Tanaka
Gemba's establishment, the oldest
and largest, which supphes the
Imperial Household. The chief
occupation of the inhabitants is
fishing. Immense quantities of
iwashi, a fish resembling the pil-
chard but smaller, are caught here
and all along the coast. They are
boiled in huge caul(h'ons to obtain
the oil, which is used for lamps ;
and the residue, dried in the sun,
is sent inland for manure. The
odour may be better imagined than
described.

Visitors to this portion of the
coast ■will find it pleasanter to put
Tip at Cape hmhoe, 1 ri 18 cho from
Choshi station. There is a good
inn, the Gyokei-kwan, situated in a
email bay close by the lighthouse,
and much frequented during the
summer months. The whole coast
called Ku-ja-ku-ri no hama, stretch-
ing S. from Chdshi, is flat, sandy,
•and uninteresting.

Travellers desirous of seeing
something of the large lagoons on
the lower course of the Tonegawa,
might vary the return to Tokyo by
taking steamer up the river to O-
funatsu on the Kita-ura lagoon,
thence also by steamer to Tsuchi-
ura on the Kasumi lagoon, and
home by train in 2J hrs. There is
daily communication.

The lagoon called Kita-iira is 6 ri long
from N. to S. and 1 ri wide. Kasumi-ga-
ura is 36 ri in cii-cuit and of a very
irregular shape. Its shores are flat and
well-wooded, and it contains sixteen
islands, of which Ukishima on the S. E.
■side is the largest. Pearls are fished for
in the vicinity.

The poor viU. of Ofunatsu stands
near the S. extremity of the Kita-

: ura lagoon, 18 cho by jinrikisha
' from the ancient temple of "Ka-
I shima, a noted pilgrim resort. A
broad avenue leads to the temple,
which is surrounded by a grove of
fine cryptomerias. The yearly fes-
tival takes place on the 9th iilarch.

The name Ka-shima means " Deer Is-
land,'' but the district is an island no
longer, and the deer are extinct. The
principal deity here worshipped is Take-
mika-zuchi. This god was one of those
sent down from heaven to Japan, to pre-
pare the advent of the line of earthly
sovereigns known afterwards as Mikados.
The temple is usually said to have been
founded in the " Age of the Gods," and
certainly dates from the prehistoric epoch.

A small enclosure behind con-
tains the Kaname-ishi, or " pivot
stone," supposed to ,be a pillar
whose foundation is at the centre
of the earth. This, though cele-
brated, is insignificant as a sight,
as one sees nothing but a few
inches of stone.

One account is that under this spot lies
confined the gigantic fish called nainazu,
whose contortions are the cause of earth-
quakes, and that the stone acts as some
restraint on the creature's movements.
Mitsukuni, the second Daimyo of Mito, is
said to have dug round it for six days
without finding the lower end.

About 1 m. from the temple is a
stretch of moorland called Takama-
no-hara, literally, " the Plain of High
Heaven," where the gods are sup-
posed to have assembled in days of
yore, and where stone an'ow-heads
may still occasionally be found.

A canal connects the _two big
lagoons. The trip fi'om Ofunatsu
to Tsuchiura occupies about 6 hrs.
The mountain constantly seen a-
head is Tsukuba.

2. — Theottgh the PkninsxtIjA to

Katsu-uea, and eound the S.&W.

Coasts to Kominato, Nokogiri-

YAMA, AND KaNO-ZAN.

This makes a good winter trip
either on foot or by jiniUdsha, as
the climate is mild and the ac-
commodation comfortable. There
being steam communication daily
with T6ky5 from Katsu-ura, Ama-

Tlirough the Peninsula to Kalnv-ura and A'omlnato. 223

tsu, Hojo, and the various villages
on the W. coast of the peninsiila,
travellers wishing to curtail their
journey can do so at almost any
tinae.

The first stage is by train to Chi-
ba (see p. 221), whence by another
line (that running to Ichinomiya on
the E. coast) as far as Mobara. The
itinerai-y onwards is as follows : —

MOBAKAto:— Bi Cho M.

Chdnan 2 — 5

Odaki 2 20 Gj

Katsu-iira 5 16 IS^^

Koiuinato 3 21 8|

Amatsu 1 3 2J

Kamogawa 1 27 4^

Euii 2 12 5|

Wada 17 3

Matsuda 1 18 3|

Shirako 1 5 2|

Asahina 33 2^

Shirahama 2 27 5|

Mera 1 34 4|

TATEYAMA 2 20 6^

Hojo 13 I

Kachiyama 4 14 10|

Hota 1 — 2J

Kanaya 1 8 3

Take-ga-oka 1 21 4 J

Teujinyama (Minato) 34 2^-

Kano-zan 3 — Ih

KISAKAZU 4 23 \1\

Total.... 48 6 117J

From Mobara southwards to the
coast the road leads through
numerous small valleys, cultivated
and well-wooded.

Chonan {Inn, K5ji-ya). The
noted Temple of Kasamori, dedicat-
ed to the Eleven-faced Kwan-
non, 1 ri E. of this town by
jinrikisha, is a curiosity worth turn-
ing aside to see. It stands among
patriarchal pines and cryptomerias,
and is built on a platform resting on
the point of an irregular conical
rock some 50 ft. in height, the edges
being sujiported by stout wooden
scaflEolding. Three flights of stairs
lead to the top. Of the numerous
votive offerings brought by rustic

worshippers, the most touching are
suits of very tiny children's dresses
set up in glass cases. There is a
fair inn at the bottom of the hill
on which the temple stands. The
annual festival is celebrated on the
17th August.

The holy image here worshipped, .say
the temple records, was carved out of
camphor-wood by Dengyo Daishi ; and
though the minor buildings have been
burnt down at various times, the main
shrine, which dates from the year 1028,
subsists unhurt to this day, — an evident
proof of the goddess's special grace.

Retracing our steps to Chonan
(nothing is gained by attempting a
short cut), we next reach

Odaki [Inn, Odald-ya), a fair-
sized country town. On approach-
ing the coast, the road becomes de-
lightfully smooth and firm. It has
been cut out of the low rounded
hills formed of sea sand which
characterise this region, while the
intervening valleys laave been filled
in and built up to the necessary
level. The sea comes in sight just
before reaching

Katsu-ura [Inn, Kozen), a clean
and thriving little seaport town.
The temple-crowned hill above it
commands an extensive view. The
fishermen all along the coast of
these provinces of Kazusa and
Bdshii occasionally wear gorgeous
gowns adorned with stamped
coloiu-ed designs of the rising sun,
birds, fishes, singing-girls, etc.
These are rewards bestowed by their
employers on the occasion of large
catches, and are brought out on
high days and holidays. Turning
westwards, it is a very pretty walk
hence along the coast, with Cape
Nojima standing out clearly in the
distance. Considerable tunnelling
through the soft Umestone rock,
and cuttings in the cliffs, save
many ups and downs on the way.
The long vill. of

Kominato {Inn, Seikai-ro) is
built round the shores of a small
bay. The western part is Kominato
proper, the eastern is called Uchi-

224 Route 21. — The Frovinoes of Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu.

ura, at the entrance to which stands
a temjole famous thronghoTit Japan
as the birthplace of the great
Buddhist saint, Nichiren.

According to some, the original site of
the temple founded by Nichiren himself
on the very spot which gave him birth, is
now under a stretch of sea called Tai-no-
ura, said to be the resort of numbers of
tai fish, which are held sacred by the
fishermen. Another tradition is that
from the day of the saint's birth until he
was seven days old, two of these fish five
feet long used daily to appear in the pond
in his father's garden, whence the spot,
since covered by the waves, took its
name of " Tax Bay." In any case, there
is only just sufficient space between the
sea and the steexj hills behind for the row
of houses forming the double village of
Kominato and Uchi-ura.

The temple raised to the memory
of Nichiren is called Tanjoji, or the
Temple of the Bii-th. The main
temple is an nnpainted wooden
building, 72 ft. square inside, built
in 1846. The porch has some ex-
cellent carvings of tortoises and
lions' heads. The birds in the
brackets of the transverse beams
and the new dragons above are
also good. The interior is very
simple, its only decoration being
four large panels carved with
dragons, and a coffered ceiling
vsdth the Mikado's crest painted in
each compartment. On the altar
stands a handsome black and gold
shrine containing a Kfe-like image
of the saint, who is represented as
reading fi-om a richly gilt scroll
containing a portion of the Hoke-
kyo. The doors of the shrine are
kept closed except dming service,
when they are thrown open in order
that worshippers may gaze upon
Nichiren's countenance.

To the r., just inside the outer
gate, is a small square building
over the well which nominally
suppUed the water {ianjo-sid) used
to wash the infant saint, — nomi-
nally only, because the original sijot
was overwhelmed by a tidal wave
in A. D. 1498.— The annual festi-
val takes place on the 12th and 13th
days of the 10th moon, old style.

Atnatsu [Inn,, Abura-ya at the
W. end) is another very long \il-
lage, and a better place to stay at
than Kominato.

A little more than 1 ri due N.
of Amatsu, and approachable by
jinrikisha, stands the mountain vill.
of Kiyosumi (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya),
1,000 ft. above the sea, celebrated
for its temple to Kokuzo Bosatsu.
The way leads up through pine-
woods, which cover the hills
as far as the eye can reach. The
handsome main shrine contains
some good carvings of Buddhist
deities. Its site too is remark-
ably beautiful, giant cryptomerias
sheltering the gi'oiTnds. The small
eminences close by the temple
command a glorious pros[)ect, both
landward and seaward. The in-
vigorating air and the absence
of mosqiiitoes attract many Japa-
nese visitors during the summer
months.

[From Kiyosumi a direct road
through pine-woods cuts due
W. across the peninsula to
Hota, about 10 ri]

Kamogawa (Inn, Yoshida-ya)
is a fair-sized town. The chief
object of interest on this part of
the coast is Niernon-jima, a tiny
islet off Cape Nabuto. The road
passes within a few ehd of the
ferry.

During a reverse of fortune, Yoritomo
was assisted by one Niemon, and shelter-
ed in a cave on this islet. 'When he rose
to supreme power, he granted the sole
possession of the islet (no wide domain
certainly) to his benefactor, whence its
present name.

From here on to Emi (Inn,
Koike-ya) and beyond, daffodils
and other flowers abound near the
sea-shore, and fill the air with
their fragrance at Christmas time.

Matsuda (Inn, Kawanishi).

[Here there is a short cut across
the tiny province of Boshii at
its narrowest part to Hojo, 3
ri 25 cho.']

The mineral springs of Cliigura

Tateyama . Nokogiri-i/ai uci.

225

Onsen, in the township of Asahina,
offer good accommodation ; but the
bathing arrangements do not suit
European ideas.

[At Shirahama again a road cuts
across to H5j5, about 3 »•*.]

On the low headland of Nbjima,
stands a fine lighthouse, whose
light is visible for 20 miles. During
tins part of the way Vries Island
remains constantly in view, with its
pillar of smoke by day and tire by
night. The climate here is so mild
that the village children may be
seen playing .ibout almost naked
even in winter.

Travellers not })ressed for time
might find it pleasant to stay over
a night at the *Yuji-kwan, an
isolated inn perched on the hill-
side close to a pretty beach just
under the Mera lighthouse, and
10 cho from the vill. of Mera.
Fishing-boats ptit out in large
numbers during the season to catch
bonitos around Vries Island and
others of the chain extenchng
southward towards Hachijo. Su-
nosaki, lit. " sand cape," deserves
its name, and the way round it is
not recommended. Our inland
route leads over a gentle hill by a
finely giaded road to

Tateyama and Hojo {In7is,
*Kimui'a-ya, *Yoshino-kwan). These
two towns are practically continu-
ous, being only se^Darated by a
small stream. Hojo commands an
incomparable view of Fuji across
the sea. Nowhere else does
the mountain seem to rise to so
great a height, completely dom-
inating the Oyama and 'Amagi
ranges which extend r. and 1.,
while on either hand the shores
of the bay stretch round to form
a fitting frame for this lovely
picture. The little bay of Tate-
yama is known in Japanese as
Karjami no ura, or " Mirror Reach,"
and is a favourite spot for sea-
bathing, owing to its pleasant
beach and generally smooth water.
A steamer leaves Hojo daily for

Tokyd at about 10 A.M., calhng at
several places along the coast of
Bdshu and Kazusa, and reaches
Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favourable
circumstances. Another leaves
about noon, calling at Uraga.

A good jinriMsha road leads
along the coast through the towns
of Kachiyama [Inn, Naka-jin),
Hoia, and Motona, the two latter
being continuous. The cUmb up
Nokogiri-yama is made from
Motona, the descent to Kanaya
(poor accommodation), to which
place the jinriMshas should be sent
on. The detoitr is a slight one,
occupying only about 1-} hr.

This mountain takes its name,
which means " Saw Mountain,"
from the serrated ridge of peaks
that follow each other in regiolar
gradation from the highest on the
E. down to the sea-shore. Hound
the promontory thus formed, passes
the highway to Kanaya. Scat-
tered over the south side of the
mountain are the remains of a set
of stone images of the Five Hun-
dred Eakan, many of them now
headless or otherwise mutilated.
Besides these, there is a shrine
hewn out of the Hving rock, in the
centre of which is a stone effigy
of the person to whose initiative
the carving of the other five
hundred images was due. The
view fi'om the point called Mi-
luirashi, 850 ft. above the sea, is
lovely. Westward rises the peiiect
form of Fuji above the low coast
of Sagami, while to the S. a suc-
cession of bays and promontories
marks the W. coast of BoshCi.
First comes the vill. of Yoshihama,
bent at an obtuse angle along the
sea-shore, and beyond it the cape
under which nestles the httle town
of Kachiyama. To the E. are the
higher peaks of Nokogui-yama, and
in fi'ont a mass of lesser hills
intervening between the ridge and
the valley of the Minato-gawa.
The lighthouse on Kwannon-saki
is a prominent landmark bearing
N.W. by N. — ^Extensive quarries on

226 Route 21. — TJ^e Pro\:inces of Shimosa, Kazusa, and BokKu.

the N. side are passed on the way
down.

Tunnelling characteiises this sec-
tion of the road onwards for several
miles. At Hagyu the local wonder
is a small cavern containing a well,
called Eoijane-ido, or the Golden
"WeU, on account of a yellow scum
that rises on its surface. This
effect is due to the fluorescent
property of the water ; but the
simple country-folk hang the usual
emblems of worship about the
cavern.

Tenjin-yama or Minato [Inn,
*Siury6-kwan). This prettily situat-
ed place contains a few sake
breweries and soy manufactories,
the produce of which is shipped in
junks to Tokyo; but the population
consists chiefly of fishermen. A
smooth sandy beach with a W. as-
pect stretches 1| m. along the
shore to the N., affording excellent
bathing. About 1 m. off rises
Myoken-yama, which commands a
fine view.

The way nov>- ascends the valley
of the ilinato-gawa to Sakurai (not
to be confounded ^vith the other
Till, of the same name near Ki-
sarazu mentioned below), and
thence up the slopes of Kano-zan,
which have been afforested with
pine trees in recent years.

Kano-zan (Inn, Marashichi), a
village of about lUO houses, stands
on the top of the mountain of the
same name, which, rising to a height
of 1,260 ft. on the borders of Kazusa
and Boshti, forms a conspicu-
ous object in the view across Tokyo
Bay. The inn faces W., and com-
mands a superb prospect : — below,
the blue waters of Tokyo Bay,
beyond which rises Fuji ; to the 1.
the Hakone range ; to the r. the
Oyama and Tanzawa ranges : and
fuilher N. the Nikko mountains,
Akagi-san, and Tsukuba. Even
more comprehensive is the view
from the hill just below ihe inn,
used as one of the principal trigon-
ometrical survey stations of Japan.

Among the prettiest walks at Kano-
zan is one to a waterfall, 1 m. from
the vill. The volume of water, 35 ft.
in height, is small ; but the basin
into which it f;xlls is curious,
having rocks on either side coming
together like the bows of an
ironclad.

A 10 min. walk, affording a view
unique in its way, is as follows : —
Passing through the lower street
of Kan5-zan towards the N., we
reach 1. a flight of 218 stone
steps, at the top of which stands
a small Shinto shrine. This is
the highest point of the mountain ;
but being overgi'own with tall
trees, the summit offers no
view. Opposite the steps on the
r., a short path leads to the brow
of the hill, whence there is a fine
prospect towards the E. and N.
The side of the mountain here
slopes away very abruptly ; and
below, as far as the eye can reach,
he low but sharp ridges covered
with brushwood, intersecting and
meeting so as to form a multitiide
of tiny valleys, in most of which rice
is cultivated. The ■sdew from this
point has therefore received the
name of Ku-ju-ku Tani, or the
Ninety-nine Valleys.

The descent to the foot of Kano-
zan is about J hr. walk, whence
through pretty rural scenery to
Sakurai [Inn, Kadomatsu-ya), a
small vill. 23 cho from the flomish-
ing port of

Kisarazu [Inns, Fushimi, Tori-
kai). From here there is daily steam
communication with Tokyo (see
p. 112).

Boufe 22. — The Ead Goad Bailway.

227

ROUTE 22.

The East Coast E,att,way.

fbom tokyo to mito, and along
the coast to taiba and sendal.

<£

Names

O „ lO

a S ^

Remarks

"■"H

Stations

TOKYO (Ueno)

21m.

Tabata Jet.

*■;

Minami Senju

Kita Senju

Kameari

9 -J

Kanamachi

12i

Matsudo

14.':

Mabashi

191

Kaehiwa

•22

Abiko

25-;

Toride

29J

Fujisbiro

Dshiku

Arakawa-Oki

(Alight for

421

TSUCHIURA....

jTsuknba, see
(p. 150,

Kandatsu

Takataama

521

Ishioka

561

Hatori

59|

Iw:ima

r For branch

Tomobe Jet

\ to Oyama on
(Northern By.

Uchihara

70A

Akatsuka

741

MITO

80,1

Sawa

88'

Omika

905

Shimo-Mago

93|

Sukegawa

99 i'

Kawashiri

loai

Takahagi

1091

Isohara

113A

Sekimoto

1161

Nakoso

1191

Ueda

123,?

Izumi

( Road to Shira-

127 ij

Yumoto

< kawa on
( "Northern Ry.

1293

Tsuzura

1321

TAIRA

136

Kusano

138 2

Yotsukura

141 j

Hisa-no-hania

146]

Hirono

1501

Kido

156i

Tomioka

166^

Nagatsnka

169i

Namie

175

Kotaka

178

Iwaki-Ota

180?

Harano-machi

185^

Kashima

1931

Nakamura

198?

Shinchi

2021

Sakamoto

207 J-

Yoshida

210A

Watari

215?

IWANUMA Jet.

This line, traversing the prov-
inces of Shinaosa, Hitachi, and
Iwaki, joins the Northern Ea,ilway
system just sonth of Sendai, and
thus affords an alternative route
for the traveller proceeding north-
wards.

Running through the rice plains
that surround Tokyo and Mito, it
then passes along the naiTOW strip
of cultivated ground bordering the
Pacific coast, which it closely sMrts
most of the way to Taira. Inter-
esting glimpses are obtained of
some of the lagoons connected
with the Tonegawa ; and although
the coast line is sandy and mono-
tonously straight, the breakers and
occasional rocky inlets, \\ith fish-
ing villages here and there, lend
something of variety and colour.
In the section north of Taira the
Iwaki hills stretch in one low,
unbroken hne on the 1. almost
all the way to Iwanuma. The rail-
way runs midway between the hiUs
and the coast, and beyond Tomioka
station the sea rarely comes in
sight.

Diverging from the Northern
Railway at Tabata, the hne striltes
due E., passing through Senju, an
extensive suburb of Tokyo. After
crossing the Nakagawa and Yedo-
gawa, it turns northwards, and
reaches the main stream of the
Tonegawa, which is spanned by a
long iron bridge at

Toride, a cleanly town on its 1.
bank. The Ushiku-numa, seen to
the 1. beyond Fujishiro, is a long,
narrow, and shaUow lagoon. Tsti-
kuba-san, with its twin peaks, also
comes in sight 1. before

228

Route 22. — Tlie East Coast Railway.

Tsuchiura {Inn, Matsuya). This
former castle-town stands at the
W. end of Kasumi-ga-ura, the
largest of the lagoons. Small
steamers start every morning, and
call in at the villages scattered
along the shore. Ishioka was like-
wise a castle town in feiidal days.

As the train approaches Mito, a
number of cavities are seen on the
1. in the high bluff on which a
portion of the town is built. These
galleries were hollowed out for the
sake of the blocks used in the
manufacture of soft-stone furnaces.

Mito [hins, SuzuM-ya, with
branch at station ; Izumi-ya),
the principal town of the prov-
ince of Hitachi and capital of
the prefecture of Ibaraki, lies some
3 ri inland fi-om the shore of the
Pacific Ocean, on rising ground in
tbe midst of a wdde plain. The
town is in three divisions, the
Lower Town, the Upper Town, and
the Castle Enclosure which lies
between the other two. The castle,
where formerly dwelt the lords of
Mito, is picturesquely situated on
the crest of the high ground that
rises from the plain. The defences
consisted of deep trenches on the
upper town side, and lofty banks —
the edge of the hill in fact — on the
other, with a small moat below.
Three large gates and one tower
still remain. It is worth walking
roirnd the castle and under the
beautiful trees within the grounds.
The Public Garden on the E. of the
upper town, overlooking the large
mere of Semba, is also prettily
situated.

It was laid out some fifty years ago by
Kekko, lord of Mito, as a retreat for
himself after handing over the cares of
government to his successor. See p. 79 for
the part played by this noble house in the
modern history of Japan.

A good view is obtained from the
summer-house in the garden, where
men of letters formerly assembled
to -wiite verses and practise calli-
graphy. The staple manu-
factures of Mito are cloth and

paper. Tobacco is also made into
cigarettes in large quantities, and
a considerable export trade is car-
ried on in both salt and fresh-
water fish.

The visitor with time to spare
may run out by jinrikisha to the
pleasant sea-side hamlet of Oarai
{Inn, Kimpa-ro), 3 ri, a favourite
resort of the IVIito folk.

A short line of railway connects
Mito ^\ith Ota, an important town
some 14 m. to the N.

Very little of the town of Mito is
visible fi-om the train, which merely
skirts the 8. and E. suburbs.
Leading it, we cross the Nakagawa,
noted for its salmon, and in f hr.
approach the Pacific coast at Omika.
The ancient highway will often be
distinguished on the r. by its
avenue of pine-trees. There are
two pretty pieces of sea-beach on
this section visible from the caniage
windows, — -one at Isohara, where
the small i^romontory of Tempi-san,
with its fine trees and rocks, recalls
Enoshima in luiniature, and another
near Nakoso, close to the boi;ndary
which separates the provinces of
Hitachi and Iwaki. At Nakoso also
stood in ancient times one of the
barriers erected by government in
days when the object was, not to en-
courage travel, but to impede it.
This spot was immortahsed in verse
by Minamoto-no-Yoshiie (see p. 72,
under Hachiman Tard), while on his
way back from conquests in the
north.

Every lover of Japanese poetry knows
the lines by heart. They run thus :—

Fuku kaze wo
Nakoso no seki to

Omoishi ni
Michi mo se ni chiru
Vama-zakura kana ! —

which may be Englished as follows : —

' ■ Jlethought this barrier, with its gusty
breezes, was a mere name ; but lo ! the
wild cherry-blossoms flutter down so as
to block the path.''

The railway leaves the sea near
[feda, to strike in amongst a

Promnce of Iwaki.

229

conglomeration of conical hills
which have necessitated a good deal
of tunnelling. One ri from Izumi
station lies the little port of Ona-
hama, which is almost the sole place
of refuge on this inhospitable coast.
Two miles to the N.W. of Yumoto
{Inn, ShintaM, with hot mineral
baths), are the coal-mines of Ono-
da, near Yunotake (2,060 ft.), a peak
conspicuous for this part of the
country.

Taira (Inn, Sumiyoshi, with
branch at station), situated in a
kind of basin enclosed on every
side by low liills, is the only town
of any importance on this line
north of Mito.

[Though the Province of Iwaki

is not generally considered at-
tractive, the following itinerary
from Taira to Koriyama on the
Northern Railway is given for
the benefit of such as may
desire to traverse it. The road
mostly leads N.W. up the coui'se
of the Natsui-gawa (charming
in autumn -with the maples
lining its banks), and is practi-
cable for jinrildshas. The best
stopping-places are Ono-Nii-
machi and Miharu, the latter
town being connected with
Koriyama by tramway.

Itinerary.

TAIRA to:— Ri Cho M.

Uwadaii'a 2 14 5|

Kawamae 4 3 10

Ono-Niimachi. 4 8 1Q\

Kadosawa 3 15 8i

Miharu ,.... 3 10 S"

KORIYAMA... 3 11 8

Total 20 25 50J ]

Between Yotsukura and Hirono

lies the most picturesque portion of
the N.E. Coast Railway. Spurs of
the hUls run down to the shore ;
and as the train emerges fi'om the
tunnels that have been cut through
them, delightful sea views appear
at every opening. In the vicinity
of Hirono some coal-mining is
carried on. Tunnelling continues
at intervals on to Namie, whence
for manjf miles the natural features
of the country resemble those
around Kamakura and Yokosuka, —
low hills projecting in aU directions
like tiny peninsulas, and the inter-
vening valleys being cultivated with
rice. These give place after Hara-
no-machi (Inn, Maru-ya), which is a
fair-sized town, to an alternation of
pine-woods and paddy-fields.

Nakaxaura (Inn, Ise-ya). The
hamlets of Matsukawa-ura (Inn,
Ise-ya) and Haragama (Inn, Toyo-
kwan) lie 1 ri 8 cho and 1 ri 20 cho
respectively in the same direction
from this station, with excellent
sea-bathing and pretty coast sce-
nery. Matsukawa-ura stands on a
large lagoon, separated from the
sea by a long strip of sandy beach.
Tiny islets covered with pine-trees
dot the lagoon, whose shores are
also lined with fine old specimens
of the same tree. Haragama is on
the sea-coast.

On leading Shinchi, where we
obtain our last peep of the sea, the
double row of pine-trees planted to
screen the fields from the northern
blasts form an unusual feature
in the landscape. Soon the Iwaki
hills draw in a little ; and on passing
YosMda, a rice plain stretches away
to the north. The wide sandy bed
of the Shiroishi-gawa is crossed just
before entering the junction of

Iwanuma (see Route 65).

Il-i>^l^ > '^Jt.

SECTION II.

ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO
WITH KYOTO.

(koutes 2^ 2^.

Route. 23. — The Tokaido.

283

ROUTE 23.

The Tokaido by Rail from Tokyo
TO Kyoto and Kobe.

from OKITSU to SHIZUOKA "VIA THE
TEMPLES OF KTJNO-ZAN. FROM

KAKEGAWA TO AKIHA. WATERFALIj
OF YORO.

Names

a a >»

Kemarks

Stations

TOKYO (Shim-

Miles.

bashi)

Shinagawa

6
lOi

Omori

See Route 3.

Kawasaki

124

Tsurumi

]6i

Kanagawa

)

YOKOHAMA

20i

Hodogaya

Totsuka

fChange for

29i

OFUNAJct

\ Kamakura &
( Yokosuka.

321

Fujisawa

361

Chigasaki

i Alight f or_ as-

■101

Hiratsuka

\ ceut of Oya-

( ma (p. 109).

Oiso

rAlight for

4'.t

KOZII

Miyanoshita,
Hakone, and

[ Atami.

Matsutla

Yamakita

Oyama

Gotemba

(Alight for as-
\ cent of Fuji.

Sano

83i

Mishima

864

Numazu

904

Hara

/Travellers
from the west
alight for
Fuji. Atlwa-

Suzukawa

•i buchi alight

101

Iwabnchi

for Kami-Ide
waterfalls (p.
176) and Mi-

104

Kambara

, nobu(Ete.27).

110

Okitsu

( Excursion to
\ Kuno-zan.

114

Ejiri

120

SHIZUOKA

128

Yaizu

132

Fujieda

137

Shimada

140

Kanaya

146

Hori-no-uclii

150

Kakegawa

(Alight for
\ Akiha.

156

Fukuroi

161

Nakaizumi

Travellers
down rapids
of Tenryu

165

Tenryii-gawa ....

^ & bound E.,
enter train
here, but ex-
press does
not stop.

Tenryu travel-

168

HAMAMATSU..

lers for the
W. enter train
here.

174

Maizaka

180

Washizu

186
190
196

Futagawa

Toyohashi

Goyu

( Bran ch to
( Toyokawa.

201

Kamagori

210

Okazaki

2254

An jo

220"

Kariya

f Change for

223

Obu

J Handa, and

( Taketoyo.

228

Otaka

231

Atsuta

(("hange for

235

NAGOYA Jet. ...

J I 8 e and

240

Kiyosu

t Kwansai By.

246

Ichinomiya

249

Eisogawa

254

GIFU

263

Ogaki

268
271

Tarui

(Alight for
( Yoro.

Seki-ga-hara

278

Nagaoka

fC hange for

284

MAIBARA Jet . . .

\ Nagahama
( & TsTiruga.

288

Hikone

292

Kawase

297

Notogawa

302

Hachiman

308

Yasu

313

KUSATSU Jet. . .

(Change for
\ Kwansai line.

319

Baba (OTSUt

321

Otani

3244

Yamashina

3274

Inari

329

KYOTO

333

Mukomachi

337A

Yamazaki

3424

Takatsuki

3464

Ibaraki

351

Suita

359

OSAKA

361

Kanzaki Jet.

365

Nishinomiya

370
375

Sumiyoshi
San-no-miya . . .

(See caution at
( end of Route.

376

k5be

234

Route 2'S. — The Tokaido.

The word Tokaido aignifies " Eastern
Sea Koad." The name was given to this
road at an early date on account of its
running along the sea-shore in an easterly
direction from Kyoto, which, being the
old historic capital, was naturally
regarded as the starting-point. From the
17th century onwards, the Tokaido was
traversed twice yearly by Daimyos coming
with gorgeous retinues to pay their re-
spects to the Shogun at Yedo : and all
the chief towns, here as on the other great
highways of the empire, were provided
with honjin — that is, specially fine hos-
telries— for their lordships to sleep at.
The greater portion of the beautiful avenue
of pine-trees with which the road was
lined still exists, and can be seen oc-
casionally from the windows of the railway
carriage. The road itself is now com-
paratively deserted. " But what a scene it
used to present ! How crowded with
pedestrians ; with norimono (the palan-
quins of the upper crust), and attendants :
with cangoes (the modest bamboo
conveyance of the humble classes) ;
with pack-horses, conveying merchandise
of all kinds to and from the capital
or to the busy towns and villages along
the route ; with the trains of Daimjos or of
lesser gentrj' entitled to travel with a
retinue ; and with the commonalty, men,
women and children, on foot, all with
their dresses turned up for facility of
movement, and for the roost part taking
the journey pretty easily : frequently
stopping at the numberless tea-houses or
resting sheds by the way, and refresh-
ing themselves with the simple little
cup of weak green tea, and a cheery chat
with whomsoever might stop like them-
selves to rest. It used to seem that dis-
tance was no consideration with them.
They could go on all day. and day
after day, if only they were allowed
(which they generally were) to take their
own time and pace. The value of time
never entered into their thoughts. . . .

The numerous trains of armed men pass-
ing in both directions were the most strik-
ing feature of the scene. Never could one
go out of one's house in any direction,
but these two-sworded men were met
with ; but on the Tokaido, and in the
streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more
numerous than the common people : and
it must be understood that at this time of
which I am speaking, the crowds on por-
tions of the road and in all the principal
thoroughfares of the capital, were as great
as in the most crowded thoroughfares of
London. It took one forcibly back to the
feudal times in Europe, when no noble or
landed propsrietor thought of going abroad
unattended by his armed dependants. Ad-
ded to this, there was a certain air of
antiquity that imparted its charm to the
scene. The old Dutch writers described
the road long ago, and it was even in their

day, precisely as it was in ours. A good,
well macadamised causeway, (except that
the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of
broken stones), passing through numerous
populous villages, only divided from each
other by short intervals, where tine old
trees on both sides of the road were the
sole division between the road and the
paddy fields. The etiquette of the road
was well and rigidly defined. When the
trains of two princes met, it was incum-
bent on the lesser of them — (measured by
his income as recognised by the Govern-
ment, and published in the official list), to
dismount from his norimon, if he hap-
pened to be riding in one, and draw with
his followers to the side of the road whilst
the other passed. Whenevei it was
possible, therefore, such meetings were
avoided." *

The railway was begun in 1872 and
finished as a single Une in 1889. The
process of doubling it is still incomplete.
The journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, which
formerly was an affair of 12 or 13 days on
foot, i.s now reduced to 14! hrs.

Travellers with time on hand are
advised to break the journey at
Kozu, in order to visit Miyanoshita
and Hakone (Ete. 6) ; at Okitsu, in
order to visit Eunb-zun on the way
between that station and Shiziioka ;
at Shizuoka itself, and at Nmjoya.
Of these places, three, viz. Miyano-
shita, Shiznoka, and Nagoya, have
hotels in foreign style. Those who
are hunied may console themselves
for missing these interesting places
by the knowledge that the scenery
through which they are to pass of-
fers many chamis, including superb
views of Fuji fiom both the land
and the sea side. The least in-
teresting portion of the line is that
between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a
6 hours' run which may with
comparatively Uttle disadvantage be
performed after dark, as most of it
passes through flat country devoted
to the cultivation of rice.

The first hour of the journey, —
that between Tokyo and Yokohama,
— ha\ing been already described
in Eoute 3, calls for no further
remark. Some trains run into Yoko-
hama station to pick up passengers
for the west, and run out again

* This description is quoted from
Black's Young Japan, Vol. I., p. 163, e.t seq.

From Ofuna to Sana.

2^1

for a few min. over the same ground,
but soon diverging to the 1. Other
trains, by an arrangement most
inconvenient to travellers starting
from Yokohama, leave Yokohama
aside and run straight fi'om Kana-
gawa to the small station of Hodo-
gaya, where the Yokohama passen-
gers are picked up. At

Ofuna Junction, a short branch
line takes travellers to the famous
Daibutsu at Kamakura (see pp.
101-3).

Fujisawa {Inns, Inage-ya and
Wakamatsu-ya at station). The
Buddliist temple of Yugyo-dera,
8 cho from the station, is known
far and v(dde for the wonderful
powers of heahng, etc., ascribed to
its successive abbots. The es-
tablished custom is for the abbot
to spend all his time in pious
journeyings, and return to Fuji-
sawa only at the approach of death.
The present temple is spacious and
possesses a handsome altar, but
can nowise be compared mth the
earher set of buildings destroyed
by fire in 1880. Fujisawa is the
nearest station for the sacred island
of Enoshima (see p. 105). After
passing Fujisawa, the Hakone range,
behind which towers the cone of
Fuji, begins to come in sight r. Soon
afterwards, the line crosses the
broad, stony bed of the river
Banyu, which rises in Lake Yama-
naka on the N.E. flank of Fuji.

Oiso (Inn, *T6ryo-kwan) is a
bathing resort which has become
fashionable of late years ; the hill-
side is dotted with the villas of
the Japanese nobUity. The coast
from here onwards is well-protect-
ed from ■winter winds, an advan-
tage to which the groves of orange-
trees coveiing the surrounding
slopes bear witness. At

£[5zu (Inn, Kozu-kwan), the hne
turns inland up the vaUey of the
Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the
Hakone mountains which effect-
ually bar the way to all but
pedestrians. The scenery now

becomes mountainous, with to the
1. the chief peaks of the Hakone
range, — Futago-yama (the " Twin
Mountain," so-called fi'om its
double round summit), Mydjin-
ga-take, Kamiyama, and Kin-
toM-zan (tooth-shaped). An extra
engine is put on at Yamakita to
help the train up to Gotemba, the
highest point on the line, — 1,500 ft.
above sea-level. Between Yama-
Idta and Oyama (not_to be mistaken
for the mountain Oyama, with a
long O), the scenery becomes wilder
and there is a rapid succession of
tunnels and bridges, testifying to
the engineering difficulties that had
to be conquered. Reaching

Gotemba {Inn, Fuji-ya at sta-
tion ; the old vill. is 12 cho distant),
the passenger finds himself in the
broad and fertile plain stiiTounding
Fuji's base, — a plain whose soil
indeed has been formed by the
outi^ourings of the great mountain
during countless ages. Nothing
here inteiTupts the view of the
volcano from base to summit. The
long-ridged wooded mountain im-
mediately to the 1. of Fuji is
AshUaka (see p. 17G). The range
to the spectator's 1. fi'om the car-
riage window is the Hakone range,
the lowest point of M'hich seen from
here is the Oiome-tuge leathng over
to IVIiyanoshita.

Gotemba (literally, "Palace Site") de-
rives its name from having been the seat
of the hunting-lodge of the great Shogun
Yoritomo, when he came from his capital
at Kamakura to hunt iu the ueighbom--
hood of Fuji. The Fuji no maki-gari , as
these royal hunting parties were called,
are often represented in art, especially on
screens : and various localities iu the
surrounding country-side have names
connecting them with incidents real or
imaginary of the chase.

At Sauo, there is a semi-Europ-
ean Hotel close to the waterfalls
{8ano no taki), 12 cho fi'om the sta-
tion by jinrikisha. The water form-
ing these fine falls comes from Lake
Hakone, via the tunnel mentioned
on p. 160. Kei-ga-shima, 17 cho
beyond the falls, is another pictiu-

236

Route 2'^. -The Tdkaido.

esqne spot, remarkable for its
curious rocks.

One still has Fuji and Ashitaka
to the r., the other mountains from
r. to 1. being Amagi-san in Izu,
Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higa-
ne-san on the other side of which
lies Atami, the Hakone range, and
in fi-ont — isolated as if let drop
independently into the plain —
Kanold-yama. The railway turns
■west, and rejoins the old Tokaidd at

Numazu (Inns, Sugimoto,
Kikyo-ya). There is much marshy
ground in this neighbourhood,
whence probably the name of the
place (/iwHia = "m.arsh"). Most
persons, rather than stay at Nimia-
zu itself, prefer to go on 25 min.
by jinriMsha to the Till, of i^shibu-
se (see p. 164). The Crown Prince
frequently resides at a villa 1 ri out
of Niimazu to the S. E. It is about

Suzukawa (Inns, SiTzrJd-ya, at
station; Bessd, near the sea, with
fine \iew) that the nearest and
most perfect view of Fuji is obtain-
ed. Nowhere else does the " Peer-
less Mountain " so absolutely dom-
inate its sun-oundings. The
beauty of the stretch of shore from
here to the mouth of the Fujikixwa,
called Tago-tw-ura, has been sung
by a hundred Japanese poets. The
Fujikawa is noted for its rapids
(see Kte. 27). From

Ivcabuchi (Lin, Tani-ya at sta-
tion) to Okitsu is very beautiful,
the space between the sea and a
range of hills to the r. becoming so
naiTow as barely to leave room for
the railway to skirt the shore. In
the neighbourhood of

Kambara, fields of sugar-cane
^^all be observed.

The cultivation of the small but hardy
Chinese variety of the sugar cane (Saccha-
rum sinense) is carried on with fair success
in the warmer provinces of Japan, such as
Mikawa, Owari, Kishii, Southern Shibo-
iu, and Satsuma. Being unable to with-
stand the frosts of winter, it is planted
out in March or April, and harvested not
later than November. The cane, which is
used for planting, is buried in a dry place
to preserve it from the cold. In spring it

is cut into pieces, which are planted out
in the usual way.

Okitsu (Inns, Minakuchi-ya ;
Tokai Hotel) has a lovely view of
the Bay of Suniga, the large
mountainous peninsula of Izu, and
to the r. the j)oint of land called
Min-no- Mai Sahara, celebrated aUke
in poetry and art. It is covered
with pine-trees, is low and sandy,
hence more pleasant to look at
than to walk on. Still fiulher to
the r. lie the Kuno-zan hills, with
the white little seaport town of
Shimizu nestling at their base.

At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene
of Ha-goromo, or " The Kobe of Feathers,"
one of the prettiest and most fanciful of
the Japanese Lyric Dramas {-Xo no Utai).
A fisherman, landing on this strand, finds
a robe of feathers hanging to a pine-tree,
and is about to carry it off as treasure-
trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly
appears an<l implores him to restore
it to her, for that it is hers, and
without it she cannot fly home to the
Moon, where she is one of the attendants
on the thirty monarchs who rule that
sphere. At first the fisherman refuses
to grant her request. He only does so
when, after many tears and agonies of
despair, she promises to dance for him
one of the dances known only to the
immortals Draped in her feathery robe,
she dances beneath the pine-trees on
the beach, while celestial music and
an unearthly fragrance fill the air. At
last her wings are caught by the breeze,
and she soars heavenward past Mount
Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she is lost
to view. There is still a small shrine
on Mio-no-JIatsubara dedicated to this
fairy, where a relic of her robe is
shown.

The Temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi-
dera at Okitsu, belonging to the
Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a
\'isit, partly for the sake of the
view, partly for the temple itself
and the temisle grounds, which
even the railway, though it cuts
through them, has not entirely
spoilt. The very plain altar in a
small shrine near the Uomlo — a
large hall paved Trt-ith tiles — contains
funeral ta])]ets of all the Shoguns
of the Tokugawa dynasty. In a
side temple are forty brilhantly
coloured tigiu'es. three-foiu-fhs life-
size, of Balcan — old. but restored in

limw-zav.

237

1881. They were, formerly kept in
a tea-house in the town, which
became a favoiirite resort, and
brought in a considerable revenue
to the priests. This, however,
moved the townspeople to jealousy
and fhssatisf action, for which reason
the images were removed to their
present site, where money can no
longer be made out of them. Two
stone praying-wheels stand in fi'ont
of their present shidne. In the
gi'ounds are 300 (formerly 500) stone
images of Bakan. The creeping
plum-trees {gicaryil-bai) in front of
the temple are said to have been
planted by leyasu's own hand.
Besides the temple proper, a suite
of rooms is shown, affording an
example of the best style of
Japanese domestic architecture.
Built in 1865 for the use of the
Shogun lemochi, they have of late
been sometimes occupied by the
Crown Prince.

[A detour of 6 or 7 hrs. to Kuno-
zan will afford the traveller a
real multum in purvo, — splenchd
views, sujierb temples, nearer
acquaintance with Japanese
town and country life off the
beaten track. — The plan is to
leave Yokohama by the first
train, alight at Okitsu, and
thence go by jinrikisha vvith
two men, rejoining the railway
at Shizuoka, where sleep. Sel-
keaji, described above, is first
visited ; thence through Ejiri,
one of those smaller Tokaidd
towns which the railway has
paralysed, and Shimizu, a neat
bustling seaport town ; and
then strikes inland to Tesslmji,
a riuned temple on a low hill
called Fudaraku-san, 4 <'ho in
height. Yamaoka Tetsntaro,
writing-master to the present
Emperor, collected funds for the
restoration of this place. Un-
fortunately the money was squ-
anderer] after his death, and
the temple is nothing ; but the
view is magnificent, recalling a
painting by Claude. At the

beholder's feet stretches a
gi'een carpet of rice-fields, with
the town of Shimizu and the
curious square enclosures in
the adjacent sea, used as fish-
preserves to supply the needs
of the inhabitants in stormy
weather. The two promon-
tories to the 1. are the Satta-
toge and the point near Kam-
bara, beyond which come Fuji,
Ashitaka, and the Hakone
range. The peninsula of
Izu extends the whole way
round from 1. to r., like a
gigantic scythe, forming the
Gulf of Suruga, while much
closer and smaller, making a
bay within a bay, stretches the
pine-clad promontory of Mio-
no-Matsubara, which is from
here seen to divide at the tip
into three points like claws.
Near Tesshuji stands another
temple called Ryugeji, noted in
the vicinity for its sofeisu
{Oycas revoluta) and prickly
pears, — the latter a great rarity
in Japan ; but the view, though
fine, is not comparable to that
from Tesshuji.

The way now leads back to
the sea and along the sandy
shore to the hamlet of Nekoya
(Inn, Ishibashi), at the foot of
Kuno-zan, one of a range of
hills only some 500 ft. high, but
fortress-like in steepness. Here
was the first buiial-place of the
gi'eat Shogun leyasn, and the
shrines here erected in his
honour were the originals of
which those at Nikkd are but
a more elaborate development.
Travellers who are unable to
go to Nikkd, can therefore
obtain an idea of what the
Nikko temples are like by visit-
ing Kuno-zan. According to
some, leyasu's body still lies
here, only a single hair or
other minute portion having
been transported to Nikko.
The ascent to the temples is by
a steep zigzag path cut in the

238

lioute'1'6. — Tlie Tokaidd.

living rock. A guide must be
applied for and a small fee paid
at the shamusho, or temple of-
fice, near the top on the 1. The
view over the sea from this
temple office is glorious ; but
a still better one is obtained
from a venerable gnarled pine-
tree called the mono-mi no ma-
tsii. The headlands seen hence
are T6me-no-saki, Wada-no-mi-
saki, and Omae-zald. The well
on the r. of the path at this
level is said to be 108 ft. deep,
and to have been dug by a
sixteenth centiuy warrior, Ya-
mamoto Kansidte, the lame and
one-eyed retainer of Takeda
Shingen, lord of Koshu. The
temples, though " purified " to
a certain extent by the pro-
Shintd party thirty years ago,
retain their Buddhist orna-
mentation. The wooden effigy
of a sacred horse 1. is b)-^ Hidari
Jingoro. Up a flight of steps
hence, we come r. to the drum-
tower, and 1. to the site of the
five-storied pagoda, which was
removed by the " pmifiers " as
savouring too much of Bud-
dhism. Alaove these again, are r.
the kayura stage, the treasure-
house or "godown," and a build-
ing formerly dedicated to the
Buddhist god Yakushi, and now
to the Shintd god Oyamagui-no-
Mikoto ; while 1. is the building
where the sacred offerings are
prepared. The oratory proper
is painted red on the outside,
black and gold Avithin. Kound
the interior hang pictures of
the Thiiiy-six Poetical Genius-
es, and there is an elaborate
bordering of phoenixes and
chrysanthemums. A final flight
of steps behind the oratory
leads up to the stone tomb,
which is an octagonal monohth.
The annual festival at Kuno-
zan is held on the 17th April.
8er\ices are also celebrated on
the 17th of the other months.
The temple treasures are ex-

posed to ^iew in October, when

the anntial airing takes place.

On leaving Kuno-zan, the road

first foUows the sea-shore, and

then turns inland, reaching

Shizuoka in about 1 hr.]

Between Okitsu and Ejiri there is

a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After

leaving Ejiri, the line tiirns inland

to avoid the Kuno-zan hills.

Shizuoka (Hotels, Daito-kwan,
Europ. style ; Kiyo-kwan), former-
ly called Siimpv, is the capital of
the prefecture of the same name
and of the province of Sm-uga. It
is a clean, airy, flourishing city,
noted for its manufactures of cheap
lacquer-Tv^are, delicate basket-v.ork
in curious and beautiful shapes,
and fine bamboo plaiting used to
cover egg-shell porcelain cups,
which are brought fi'om the prov-
ince of Mino. The tea produced at
Ashikubo, a vill. 2 ri thstant, ranks
second only to that of Uji. In fact,
the heights in all this district and
on to Fujieda are covered ^rith the
low, thick tea-bush.

Historically, Shizucka is remarkable
chiefly as the place where leyasu chose
to spend the evening of his life in learned
leisure, leaving his son Hidetada to carry
on the government at Yedo. Here for the
first time many of the treasures of Japa-
nese literature, which had hitherto exist-
ed only in manuscript, were put into
print. Shizuoka was, until 1897, the place
of retirement of the ex-Shogun Keiki,
who lived there in seclusion as a private
gentleman. He now, in bis old age,
occupies a high position at Court in
Tokyo.

An afternoon is enough for the
sights of Shizuoka, which consist of
the ruins of the former castle, and
of two fine temples, — Rinzaiji and
Sengen. AH that remains of the
castle are the decaying walls and
the moats. Within its enclosure
stands the Piefectme, a hideous
red biick bmlding. The Court-
house and Normal School are
outside the moat, on the S. side.

The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji
Kes 8 chd from the city, at the
foot of a range of wooded hUls.
It belongs to the Zen sect, and is

Shizuoha.

239

noleu for its connectiou with le-
yasTi and for the number of objects
of art which it contains. The little
room of only 4i mats (yo-jd-han),
where leyasu learnt to MTite, is
shown, as are several scrolls,
screens, pieces of lacquer and
porcelain, etc., presented by him
to the temple in his old age. There
is also a threadbare, but still beauti-
ful, ■piece of embroidery presented
by the Miliado Go-Nara (A. D. 1527-
1557), and a number of kaicemono
by Kano 3'Iasanobu, Chin Nam pin,
and other old masters. In the
Hondo is a painted statue of Ima-
gawa Yoshimoto, younger brother
to Ujiteru, founder of the temple.
Another painted statue represents
the second abbot. The Honzon is
Amida, a black image with a gold
background. In a side shrine is
preserved the wooden image of
Marishi-ten, which leyasu — who, for
aU his pohtical and military genius,
was not free from the superstitions
of Ids time — used constantly to
cany about with him as a charm.
The visitor will also be shown a
gilt revolving bookcase shaped like
a pagoda and containing a com-
plete set of the edition of the Bud-
dhist scriptures, which were printed
for the first time with movable
types in 1888. The 1st and 2nd
October are the great festival days
at Einzaiji.

The Temple of Sengen, which
stands at the N. limit of the town,
was built under the superinten-
dence of Okubo Hikozaemon, a
personage famous in Japanese his-
tory as the minister and confidant
of the Shogun lemitsu. Though
chiefly dedicated to the worship of
Kono - hana - saku - ya - hime, alias
Sengen, the beautiful Shinto god-
dess of Mount Fuji, it is construct-
ed and decorated in the most or-
nate Buddhistic style. Specially
noteworthy are the wood-carvings.
The grounds now serve as a public
park. Entering by two handsome-
ly carved wooden gates, the visitor
finds himself in a large quad-

rangle, in the centre of which is a
stage formerly reserved for the per-
formance of the ka<iura dance by
young girls. The interior of the
oratory proper {go haiden no obiro-
ma) is a haU 63 ft. by 33 ft., with
large solid pillars of keyaki lacquer-
ed red, two of which "form at the
saiue time the corner piUars of the
upper storey. The two central
compartments of the ceiling are
painted with dragons, — one called
the Shi-hfi no Byo, or " Dragon of
the Four Quarters," because, what-
ever point of the compass it be
vieM-ed from, it seems to glare
down directly at the spectator ; the
other, Hap-po no Ryo, or " Dragon
of the Eight Quarters," because its
glance is directed to every point of
the circle. The former of these is
by Yiisen Hogan, the latter by
Kand Motonobu. Eight other com-
partments contain pictures of
angels playing on musical instru-
ments, also by painters of the Kano
school. Two broad flights of steps
behind the oratory lead up to a
building containing two shiines,
one^ sacred to Sengen, the other
to Onamuji. The two shrines are
connected by a room in which a
nightly watch was formerly kept
by retainers of the Tokugawa
family. Dcj not fail to notice the
carvings on tlie gates leading to
these twin shrines. One set
represents a lioness with her cub,
and on a second panel her royal
mate, — both sm-rounded by peonies,
the king of flowers, as the Hon is
the king of beasts. Another set
represents hawks Avith pine-trees.
Round the shiine itself are car\ings
of the pine-tree, bamboo, and
plum-blossom by Hidari Jingoro.
The crest of a fan of feathers is
that of the goblin (tengu), who was
god of Mount Oyama and father of
the goddess of Fuji.

Near the main quadrangle is a
smaller building called Sd.sha,
formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten
and now to the Shinto god Yachi-
hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of

240

Route 2'^. — The Tokaido.

all the buildings, and the decora-
tions are therefore in better repair.
In the curved roof of the porch is
a ^ery fine phoenix cut out of a
single block of wood ; and all round,
above the architrave, runs a series
of dehcate little gi'oups representing
the Twenty-fon.r Paragons of Fihal
Piety.

The stone lanterns in the grounds
were presented by various Dai-
myds and Ildtamoto. — Beyond the
Maiishi-ten temple, a broad flight
of 105 stone steps leads up to the
Oku-no-iii, which affords a good
view of the town.

The best excursion f roni Shizuoka
is that by jimikisha to Kuno-zan
(3 ri) ; see pp. 237-8.

From Shizuoka to Nagoya, a
distance of 115 miles, the Une for
the most part ceases to skirt the
sea, and runs over a flat coiintry
with low hills on one or both sides,
or else among rice-tields. Spurs of
the central range forming the back-
bone of the country are, however,
often seen away to the r. Just
outside Shizuoka we cross the Abe-
kawa close to its mouth, and obtain
a pretty ghmpse of the sea vnth
the small promontory of Kuno-
zan and the large peninsula of
Izu, before passing through two long
tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed
after passing the station of Shimada.
Like Jill the rivers on this coast,
the Oigawa has a bed out of
proportion to the small volume of
water that generally flows down
it, the bed being nearly a mile
broad, while the actual stream is
not more than some 50 yds.
except in flood-time.

_ In pre-raihvay days, the passage of the
Oigawa was one of the most exciting por-
tions of the journey along the Tokaido.
No ferry-boats could be used on account
of the swiftness of the current, and trav-
ellers were carried across on small hand-
platforms called rendai. The naked
coolies who bore these aloft always chose
the deepest parts of the stream, in order
to impress their fares with a sense of the
peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain
the largest possible gratuity. This inci-
dent of old-fashioned travel is ]iourtrayed

in almost every set of coloured prints
representing the " I'ifty-three Stages of
the Tokaido " (Tokaido Go-jii-san Tsugi).

Kakegawa [Inn, Kyfigetsu-ro)

manufactures kuzu-ori, a sort of

linen cloth woven from gi'ass.

[The Temple of Akiha hes

12 ri inland, of which the

first 6 ri as far as the vill.

of Mikura are practicable for

jinrikishas. The visitor may

conveniently sleep at SakashUa

some 4J ri further on, at the

base of the mountain on which

the temple stands. The ascent,

locally computed at 50 cho, is

probably less.

The temple of Akiha enjoys a wide
reputation for sanctity, and is visit-
ed annually by crowds of pilgrims.
Unfortunately all the beautiful Bud-
dhist buildiugn in which Kwan-
uon and other deities had for
centuries been invoked, were de-
stroyed by fire on the occasion of
the great yearly festival in 1875, and
the i)resent temple was afterwards
erected in the bare, uninteresting
style of Pure Shinto. It has been
dedicated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto,
who is regarded by some as the God
of Fire, but is more correctly ex-
plained as the God of Summer
Heat.]

Before reaching Hamamatsu the
train crosses the Teniyu-gawa,
whose celebrated Rapids form the
subject of Pioute 30. The Tenryti
is the first of the three great
rivers from wMch the province of
Mikawa, here traversed by the rail-
way line, takes its name. The
other two are the Ogawa (also call-
ed Oya-gawa or Ohiragawa) on
this side of the station of Okazaki,
and the Yahagi-gawa just beyond
the same station.

Naka-izunii {Inn, at station).

Hamamatsu (Inns, *Ogome-ya,
* Hana-ya, at station) is the only
place between Shizuoka and Nagoya
where the journey can be broken
with, any comfort. The town de-
rives a peculiar appearance from
the use of long projecting eaves,
which cause the houses to look as
if about to tumble forward into the
street. Just beyond

From Maisaka to Nagoya.

241

Maisaka, we reach a large and
beautiful lagoon [Hamann no Mizu-
umi), which is crossed near its
mouth on a long series of dykes
and bridges, whence the breakers
of the Pacific can be seen. On the
other side stretches far away the
deeply indented shore-hne clad A\-ith
pine-trees. The boats sailing over
the smooth water, and the moun-
tains rising range beyond range in
the background, combine to form a
delightful picture.

Thoush called a lake in Japanese, this
lagoon has now a narrow entrance about
600 yds. across, formed in the year li99,
when an earthquake broke down the
sand-spit that had previously separated
the fresh water from the sea. The ijro-
vince of Totomi derives its name from
this lake, which was called Totomi, a
corruption of To-tsu-awa-unii. "the distant
foaming sea, "in contradistinction to Lake
Biwa, named rhika-tsu-awa-wni, "the
near foaming sea,'l which gave its name
to the province of Omi.

Between Futagawa and Toyo-
hashi {Imi, Tsuboya, at station),
a tine bronze image of Kwanuon,
dating fi-om the year 17G5, is seen
perched r. on a pinnacle of rock.
It is called Iimya no Kicannon, and
formerly possessed eyes of pure
gold, but only one remains.

[In the town ofToyokawa, 5 m.
distant from Toyohashi by a
branch line, stands a celebrat-
ed Temple of Inari. It is apt
now to be neglected excejjt on
festival days, namely, the 22nd
of each month. The annual
festival is held on the 21st —
22nd October.]

Between Goyu, where the line
again touches the picturesque
shore, and Kamaqori there are de-
lightful peeps of the sea, of the
islets in the Bay of Toyohashi, of
the hilly tip of the peninsula of
Atsumi, and of the mountains of
the provinces of Shima, Ise, and
Iga beyond. After

Okazaki, noted in history as
the birthplace of the great Sh5-
gun leyasu, comes a dull bit, flat
and with rice-fields on either hand.

or sand-hillocks and pine scrab ;
but from Otaka the fine range
separating the provinces of Ise and
Omi rises ahead, and is kept in
view all the way to

Atsuta [Inn, Kikyo-ya, near
station), which is practically a
suburb of Nagoya. It i)ossesses a
fine set of Shinto temples, fi'om
which it derives its alternative name
of Miya. These temples, originally
founded in A.D. 686, were restored
in 1893 in Pure Shintd style, after
the j)attern of the temples of Ise.
Persons unable to spare time for
visiting the latter may therefore, by
stopping over a train at Atsuta, gain
some notion of what Ise is like,
though here, as at Ise itself, no one
is allowed to go inside. The official
name of the temples is Atsuta Dai-
jingu. Notice the splendid camphor-
trees in the grounds. The jiniikisha
ride on to the next station, Nagoya,
where the journey w^ould probably
be broken in any case, is only
about 4 miles.

The gods worshipped at Atsuta are the
Sun-Goddess Amateiasu, her brother Susa-
no-o, Prince Yamato-take (see p. 87), the
latter's wifeMiyazu-hime, and her brother
Take-ino-tane. But the object really most
venerated,— indeed, the raison d'etre of the
temples and consequently of the town, —
is the famous sword called Kusa-nagi no
Tsurugi. one of the three antique objects
which form the Imperial regalia of Japan,
the other two being a mii'ror and a jewel.
This sword (so legend goes) v/as found by
Susa-no-o in the tail of an eight-headed
serpent, which he intoxicated with sake
aud then slew. Having been brought
from heaven many centuries later by the
first ancestor of the Mikados. it came into
the possession of Yamato-take and assist-
ed that prince in the conquest of Eastern
Japan. This treasure is never shown, but
a great festival is held in its honour on
the 21st June. The complete legend of
the sword Kma-nagl will be found in
the Kqjiki (Trans, of the Asiatic Soc.
of Japan, "Vol. X., Supplement. Sect
XVIII., LXXXII., and LXXXIII.). At
some little distance from the chief temple
stands another dedicated to a scarcely less
sacred sword called Ya-tsurugi. The
legend concerning it is kept as an
esoteric secret.

Kagoya {Inns, *Nagoya Hotel,
Shinachu, both near station

242

Route 'lo. — T}i(' Tokaido.

foreign ; Shnldn-ro ; Tea-house,
Toyo-kwan, for entertainments in
native style).

This floarisliiiig corumercial city, the
lurgpst on the Tokaido, capital of the
lirovince of Owari aud of the prefecture
of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the
Baimyos of Owari, a family closely
allied" to that of the Tokugawa Shogtins,
the founder of the house of Owari having
been a son of leyasu. Their fief was
rated at 500,000 koku of rice, and the Owa-
ri's ranked as one c .f the ■ ' Three August
Families" (Go San-ke), entitled to furnish
a successor to the Shogun's throne in
default of an heir. Their castle, which is
still one of the wonders of Japan, was
erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal
lords, to serve as the residence of leyasu's
son. Like other Japanese castles, it is a
wooden building standing on cyclopean
walls. The roofs of the keep are all cop-
pered, and its massive gates are cased
with iron. Curiously enough, this strong
castle has never seen war. In the early
years of the present riffime it was hand-
ed over to the Military Department ;
and the beautiful decorations of the
Daimyo's dwelling apartments suffered,
a.8 did so much else in Japan, from the
almost incredible vandalism and vulgar
stupidity of that period,— common
soldiers, or officers as ignorant as they,
being allowed to deface the priceless wall-
paintings of a Tan-yii, a Motonobu, and a
Matahei . This desecration is now happily
put an end to, though much irreparable
damage has been done. The castle has
been taken over by the Imperial House-
hold Department, to be preserved as a
monument of historic interest. The two
golden dolphins {kin no sharhi-hoko), which
can be seen glittering all over the city
from the top of the ftve storied don.ion
[tensAu), were made in 1610 at the cost of
the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa,
who also built the keep. One of them
was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of
1873, and on its way back was wrecked in
the Messageries Mai itimes Steamer "Nil."
Having been recovered with great diflS-
culty. it was finally restored to its original
position, much to the satisfaction of the
citizens. The golden dolphins measiu-e
8.7 ft. in height and are valued at £ 36,000
sterling.

Nagoya is noted for its manufac-
ixne of porcelain, cloisonne, and
fans. The principal dealers are :

Porcelain. — Saji Haruzo, Takito,
Matsumura. At the latter the process
of maniifactnre can be inspected.

Cloisonne. — Honda, Take-uchi.
Process of inamifactnre shown to
■visitors.

Silk.—T{i]si.

There are many lesser but good
shops for all the above articles ;
also seTeral bazaars (kwankoha) near
the Post-Office for articles of general
ntihty. Several cotton-mills have
been started of late years, and the
embroidering of handkerchiefs has
taken a considerable place among
the local industries.

Theatres. — Misono-za, Suehiro-za.

The Museum contains a collection
of the various manufactures of the
prefecture, together with art ob-
jects.

It may be worth spending a day
at Nagoya to see a flourishing pro-
vincial town. Though the Castle
is now inaccessible except by
special permit obtainable through
the foreign legations, all may in-
spect Nagoya's second greatest
sight, — the Higashi Hongwanji
temples, — the Museum, and the
minor temples mentioned below.
The evening may be agreeably
whiled away by going the round of
the bazaars and theatres.

The Castle ( 0 Shiro).— The si>ace
between the inner and outer moats,
now containing extensive ban-acks
and parade-groiinds, was formerly
occupied by the Daimyo's mansion
and by quarters for his retainers,
offices ciATil and military, etc. All
this arrangement and the wreck
that remains of the garden are well
seen from the top of the castle.
Passing into the inner enclosure
over a moat now dry and used to
keep tame deer in, the traveller is
first shown through the Apartments,
which offer a beautiful specimen
of aristocratic decoration. The
sliding screens (fiisnma) between
the rooms, the alcoves (toko-
noma), and the wooden doors sepa-
rating the different sets of Apart-
ments are all adorned with paint-
ings of flowers, birds, etc., chiefly
by artists of the Kano school, such
as Eishin, Motonobu, and Tan-yu.
One room has cherry-blossoms and
pheasants by Tosa-no-Mitsuoki.
Another — the most attractive of all

Nagoya.

243

— has multitudinous scenes of
popular life by Iwasa Matahei. One
specially gorgeous apartment, dec-
orated by Tan-yH with ideal
Chinese scenery, was reserved for
the use of the Shogun when he
came to visit the Daimyo his kins-
man. Observe the difference of
height between the inner and outer
portion of this room, — the former
(jodan) being for the Shogun him-
self, the latter {gedan) for those in-
ferior persons who were graciously
admitted to an audience. The
ramma (ventilating panels) of this
room have exquisitely faithful carv-
ings of a crane and tortoise and
of a cock perched on a drum, by
Eidari Jingoro, who also carved the
flowers and birds in certain other
rooms. Leaving these apartments,
one comes to a much humbler
suite brought from Nobunaga's
castle at Kiyosti, and is then led
into the donjon or keep, a gloomy
five-storied building, all of stone
without, but furnished with wooden
staircases within._ The well at the
bottom, called Ogon-sui, or " the
Golden Water," was dug by Kat5
Kiyomasa. The fifth storey com-
mands an extensive view, — the town
of course, the sea, the immense
plain of Owari and Mino laid out
in rice-fields, and, bounding the
horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga,
Omi, Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and
Tdtomi.

No fee is accepted by the custo-
dian of the Castle.

Higashi Hongwanji.

This wonderful Buddhist temple, where
exterior and interior are both equally-
grand, dates in its actual shape from
the beginning of the I9th century. In
medisBval times a fortress occupied its
site, whence the castle-lilie walls that still
surround the enclosure.

The magnificent two-storied
double-roofed gate-house has three
portals decorated with floral ara-
besques in relief on the lintel and
posts ; and the gates have scrolls and
open-work diapers, with sohd bronze
plates binding the frame-work to-

gether, the whole in charming style
recalling Italian Kenaissance work.
On the further side of a spacious
court rises the lofty temple, which
looks two-storied, — an effect pro-
duced by the exterior colonnade
having a roof lower than that of
the main structure. The interior
measures 120 ft. in length by 108
ft. in depth, and is divided longi-
tudinally into three parts, that in
front being for the use of ordinary
worshippers, the centre for the con-
gregation on special occasions, and
the innermost being the naijin, or
chancel. This latter is divided into
three compartments, the central
one being occupied by the shumi-
dan, a platform on wMch stands a
handsome gilt shrine holding an
image of Amida about 4 ft. high.
Both the shumi-dan and the table
in front are enriched with small
painted carvings that produce a
glorious effect. L. of the chief shrine
is a smaller one, containing a por-
trait of the founder of the sect,
taken from the effigy in the metro-
poUtan temple at Kydto. In the
ramma along the front of the naijin
are gUt open-work carvings of
angels, with gilt carvings of the
peacock and phoenix in the kaeru-
mata above. The heavy beams
of the ceihng are supported by
excellent carvings of lotus-flowers
and leaves. In some of the kaeru-
maia over these beams are spirit-
ed carvings of conventional lions.
The ceiling itself is unpainted,
and divided into coffers about 3 ft.
square. The compartments r. and
1. of the altar have gilt coppered
ceilings. In the kaeru-mnta of the
external colonnade are well-con-
ceived groups of supernatural be-
ings,— Oama Sennin with his frog,
Kinko riding on the carp, Koan on
the bushy-tailed tortoise, O-Shiko
riding on his crane, Ka-Shinjin ad-
ministering medicine to the dra-
gon, the umbrella miraculously fly-
ing back to Shoichi through the
air, and two carrying baskets of
fish. The series is continued round

244

Route 23 —The Tokaido.

the sides by the crane, the lion, and
the flying dragon. The building
to the r. is a large reception hall
( Taimeajo). used by the Lord Abbot
©n great occasions. As usual in
Hongwanji temples, there is another
building called the Jiki-do,
connected •with the main building
by a gallery resembUng a bridge.
Though much less elaborate than
the main altar, the altar of the
Jiki-d5 is yet a fine blaze of gold.
E,. and 1. of the central image of
Amida, are some charming gold
sliding screens representing moun-
tain scenery. The Apartments of
the temple contain several kake-
monos and other works of art, which
are, however, generally stowed
away in a godown. In fi-ont of the
main gate is an avenue of di-ooping
chen'y-trees [shidare-zakura), — a
vei-y pretty sight in April. The
odd-looMng row of builchngs paral-
lel to the aveniTe is a set of lodgings
attached to the temple, where
worshippers fi'om the country are
housed.

Go-hyaku Kakan (prox)erly
Dairyuji). Though this ugly little
temple on the N. E. hmit of the
city is nothing in itself, it well
deserves a visit for the sake of the
gallery behind (application to the
custodian necessary), where are
kept five hundred images of Bud-
dha's chief disciples, mostly about
2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and
all different. Some are smiling,
some are solemn, some are fierce,
some stupid-looking, some have a
supercilious air, some an air of
smug self-satisfaction, some few
are lying down, others are praying,
others again have their arms ex-
tended in the attitude of benedic-
tion, one has three eyes, one holds
a tiger-cub in his arms, one ■with a
gold halo bestrides a peacock with
outstretched wings, others ride on
horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so
on, almost ad infinitum.. No wonder
the Japanese say that among the
Five Hundred i^kan, every spec-
tator can find the likeness of his

own father by dint of a little
searching.

The images are said to date from the
beginning of the 18th century. A keen
eye will detect among the maas some
much better carved than the rest. They
are chocolate-coloured, and stand a good
way on in the collection, — one of them
recumbent, a second leaning on his hand,
a third clasping his knee, etc. These are
genuinely bj' Tametaka, an artist to whom
the whole collection is incorrectly at-
tributed. This sculptor is best-known as
a carver of nefsule. His spirited, life-like
figures tell out among the grotes'^tieness
of the rest.

The remaining temples of Nagoya
are much inferior in interest.
Mkokuji, the Nishi Hongicauji, and
Naivxtsv.-defra may be mentioned.
Osu Kicannon, a temple sacred to
the Goddess of Mercy, is remarkable
chiefly as the centre round which
many places of popular amusement,
such as peep-shows, etc. have gath-
ered. A gi'eat rehgious procession is
held yearly on the 4th day of the 4th
moon, old style (some tuue in May),
when each of the twelve principal
wards of the city furnishes a car
illustrating some subject, historical
or legendary.

Nagoya, Uke most other large
tOM'ns, possesses a number of new,
uninteresting buildings in the style
or no style known in the Japan of
to-day as " foreign." Siieh are the
Prefectural Office, the Post and
Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the
Normal School, the Court-houses,
etc. The hiige iiepper-castei' top of
the Nagoya Hotel towers above all
the rest.

[The only exciu'sion to be recom-
mended in the neighbourhood
of Nagoya is to the potteries
of Seto, 13|^m. tlistant by a
new line of railway called the
Om-o Tetsudo, ^vhich continues
on to Tajimi mentioned below.

The province of Owari, of which
Nagoya is the capital, and the adja-
cent province of Mino, have for many
ages been flourishing centres of the
porcelain industry, the most famous
seat of which is at Seto, where Kato
Shlrozaemon, the first great master

Potteries of Seto. Gifu. Wate)fall of Yord. 245

of Japanese ceramic art, set up his
Mln about the year 1230 on his return
from six years of diligent study in
China. Thenceforth Seto became
the head-quarters of the manufacture
of dainty little jars, ewers, and other
utensils for the tea ceremonies {cha-
no-yu), so that the word seto-mono,
literally "Seto things," has come to
be employed in Japanese as a genetic
name for aU pottery and porcelain,
much as the word china is used in
English. Seto has remained the
chief porcelain manufactory of Japan.
Many of the pieces now turned out—
es-pecially the monster blue-and-
white vases— are intended only for
the foreign market. Fine porcelain,
is produced at Tcjimi, some 1 m.
beyond Seto. Many of the small
villages in the near vicinity of Nago-
ya are devoted to the production
of minor kinds of porcelain and
pottery.]

From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the
railway line deserts the old Tokai-
do, and though called the Tokaido
EallTvay, really follows the Naka-
sendo. Qiiitting Nagoya, the train
wends on through more and ever
more rice-fields, -^-ith blue moun-
tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1.
They are the mountains dividing
the provinces of Owari and Mino
from those of Omi and Ise. Four-
teen miles out of Nagoya, the line
crosses the Kisogawa, the river
whose upper course forms so beau-
tiful a i)ortion of the Nakasendo,
(see p. 248), and which is pictur-
esque even here near its mouth.

Gifu {Lms, *Tamai-ya, Tsuno-
kuni-ya, both 12 cho from station)
is an important place, and capital
of the prefecture of the same name,
which includes the two provinces
of Mino and Hida. A conical hill
named Kinkwa-zan, N. E. of the
town, was the site of a castle built
by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga.
The view hence of Ontake and the
^linshu Koma-ga-take, with the
ffida range, well repays the climb.
The traveller will also be taken to
maha-yama, near the centre of the
town, where stands a Shinto shrine.
Eaw silk and the silk of the wild
silkworm [yama-mai) are produced
in large quantities in the neighbour-

hood, most of it being woven into
crape. In this the glittering threads
of the wild silk, which takes the
dyes in a less degree than that of the
ordinary silkworm, are introduced
to form the pattern. The mon-
chirimen woven in this manner is a
favourite fabric. Gifu is also noted
for its paper-lanterns (said to be
the best in Japan) and other paper
wares, the Mino-gami being univer-
sally prized.

In the summer-time it may be
worth staying over a night at Gifu,
in order to see an extremely curious
method of fishing -^ith the help of
cormorants (u-kai) on the river
Nagara. Comfortable house-boats
may be engaged for this pm-pose.
The traveller is referred for a full
description to the article entitled
" Cormorant-fishing " in Things Ja-
panese ; but the fishermen do not go
out^on moonlight nights. On nearing
Ogaki (Inns, Kyomaru-ya at the
station; Tama-ya), the castle of
the former Daimyo, with one turret
in fairly good preservation, is seen
1. of the line. Far away to the r.,
Haku-san rears its head over the
nearer range.

[Not to the hunied tourist, but to
the leisurely lover of Old Japan
and her ways, a day or two at
Yoro, in this neighbourhood,
is much to be recommended.
The plan is to alight at OgaM
station, there take ajinriMsha
over the plain through the vilL
of Takada (2^ ri) to Ishibata
(10 cho more), and thence walk
the last J ri to Yoro, which
stands on the flank of the
mountain ridge of the same
name. One may return either
the way one came, or else to
Tarui station, about the same
distance, or to Seki-ga-hara,
nearly 1 ri longer. Seki-ga-
hara is the best station from
which to approach Yoro, when
coming fi-om the Kyoto direc-
tion.

The raison d'itre of the little
village of Yoro (Inns, *Kiku-

246

Boute 23.— The Tokaido.

sui-r5, Murakami), of the gar-
dens, and of the line Kairaku-
sha club-house dating from
1880, is the celebrated water-
fall called Yoro-cja-taki.

This name, which may be translat-
ed as "the Cascade of Filial Piety," is
explained by the following legend.
In A D. 717 there lived a wood-cutter
so filial in his conduct that he was
wont to expend the proceeds of his
toU on sake for his aged father,
whose great passion was strong
drink. As a reward for such exem-
plary piety, there was one day re-
vealed to him the existence of this
cascade, which consists (or at least
consisted at that time) of pure and
excellent sake. The legend forms a
favourite subject of Japanese art.

Both the Kikusui-r5 inn and
the Kaii-akusha club command
lovely views of the broad sweep
of the Mino plain, with Ontake,
Ena-san, and other mountains
beyond. Very charming, too,
is the thoroughly Japanese ar-
rangement of the park, and
the walk up to the waterfall
through 5 cho of cherry and ma-
ple trees. The fall itself, which
is 105 ft. high, is embosomed
in maple-trees. The rock on
either side contains fossil
ferns, known as .shinobu-seki.
Yoro is a cool place in sum-
mer. In -wdnter the Shimo-ike,
a large mere a little over 1 ri
distant in a S.E. direction,
swarms with wild-geese, duck,
etc., which are taken by means
of nets, and at all seasons with
eels, carp, and perch, which
help to supply the Kyoto fish-
market. The distance to the
summit of Yoro-yama is locally
estimated at 2 ri. A most ex-
tensive view rewards the
climber.— While in this neigh-
bourhood, one might visit the
marble quarries of Akasaka-
yama, also called _Kinsh5-zan,
1 ri 10 cho from OgaM in the
direction of Tarui, and the
celebrated temple of Tanigumi-
dera, some 7 ri to the N. of
Taxui by a jinriMsha road.

This temple is the thirty-third
and last of the Places Sacred
to the Goddess Kwannon (see
Ute. 37), and here accordingly
the pUgi-ims deposit their pU-
grim shirts (oizuru). It can
scarcely be recommended ex-
cept on festival days, viz. the
17th July which is the yearly
festival, and the 18th of aU
the other months.]

There are inferior inns at the
small stations of Tarui and

Seki-g-a-liara.

Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which
means literally "Moor of the Barrier,"
from the barrier of Fuwa {Fuwa no seki)
established at this spot in A. D. 673 by the
Emperor Temmu, it having been a Japa-
nese custom from the earliest period down
to the beginning of the present reign to
hamper free communication throughout
the country by means of barriers near the
capital, which none might pass without
a special permit. Doubtless the original
object was to guard against incursions of
the barbarians of the East and North.
Seki-ga-hara is celebrated in Japanese
history as the scene of a decisive battle
fought in the year ICuO between leyasu
and Hideyori, son of the great Hideyoshi,
in which leyasu triumphed. His camp
at Seki-ga-hara was on a level piece of
ground among the hills on the 1. side of
the road, near a hamlet called Kogami-
mura.

Here the journey across the plain
terminates, and the Tokaido Rail-
way again enters diversified scen-
ery, as it plunges among the hills
that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa.

Between Seki-ga-hara and Xaga-
oka the gradient is steep, the line
being led up a naiTow valley open-
ing out on a small plain devoted to
the cultivation of the mulberry-
tree. The tall bare mountain
frequently seen looming up to the
r. during this portion of the joiu-ney
is Ihuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one
of the " Seven High Mountains " of
Central Japan, and noted in the
early Japanese pharmacopoeia for
its wealth of medicinal plants.

The " Seven High Mountains " are Hiei-
zan, Hirayama in Omi, Ibuki-yama, Kim-
pu-zan (or Omine) near yoshino, Atago-
yama in Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazu-
raki-yama.

From Maihara to Nishi-no-miya.

247

Passing among pine-clad hills,
we reach

Maibara {Inn, Izutsu-ya at the
station), whence all the way on to
Baba, the station for the important
town of Otsn, the line runs along
the basin of Lake Biwa, though
unfortunately not near enough
to the shore to allow of many
glimpses of the lalvc being ob-
tained. The whole scenery is,
however, pretty, — and pretty in a
way of its own. Quite close, to
the 1., is the range of hills forming
the southern rim of the Lake Biwa
basin ; far away to the r., in the dim
distance, are the blue mountains
enclosing the lake on the N., while
immediately on either side of the
line is a fair, cultivated plain. At

Hikone [Inns, *Raku-raku-tei,
Matsu-ya), the former Daimyo's
castle is seen r. on a wooded hill.
For the fish-traps to be observed
in the lake, see the small type near
the beginning of Route 40. Before
reaching Notogawa, the rivers Seri-
gawa, Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa
are crossed. The cone of Mikami-
yama, also called IVIulcade-yama,
shaped like Fuji but thickly wood-
ed, begins to j)eep up from behind
a nearer range of hills before arriv-
ing at

Kusatsu. Between this place
and Baba, the most striking view
on the whole Tokaido W. of Shizu-
oka is obtained on crossing the
long bridge that spans the Seta-
gawa (Seta no JS'aga-hashi), where
the lake opens out beautifully for a
few minutes. From

Saba or Otsu (Inn, Minarai-tei,
foreign style), the line passes
through a tunnel under Osaka-
yama (nothing to do with the city
of Osaka), before ru.nning into the
small station of Otani, where it
emerges on a narrow valley. The
hills are covered with that thick
growth of pine-trees which charac-
terises all the country round about
Kyofo.

[For further details concerning
the portion of the Tokaido
Route lying between Maibara
and Otani, see Route 40.]

The train then passes through
the stations of Yarnashina and Inari.
Over 11,000 pilgrims alight at this
latter place on the occasion of the
yearly festival of the great Shinto
temple of Liari, for which see Route
35. The train then enters the old
capital,

Kyoto, fully described in Route
35, after which it crosses a wide
plain, and passes through several
minor stations before reaching the
great commercial town of

Osaka, described in Route 34.
From Osaka onwards, the hills in
the distance to the r. begin to draw
in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly
contracts until it becomes a mere
strip fringing the sea-shore, and at
the station of

Nishi-no-miya, there begins
to rise r. the screen of somewhat
barren hills that help to give Kobe
its good climate by protecting that
part of the coast from wintry
blasts. The high land seen in the
distance across the water is not, as
might be supposed, an island, but
a portion of the pro-vLnoe of Izuml.
At Nishi-no-miya stands a small
but famous Temple of Ebisu, one of
the seven gods of Luck, to which
immense crowds of worshippers
flock on the First Day of the Horse
(Hatsu-uma) of the First Moon, old
style, — generally some day in
February. This part of the country
is one of the chief centres of the
sake manufacture. The three
tunnels passed through on this
section of the journey are remark-
able, as going under river-beds.
O^ing to the proximity of the
neighbouring mountains to the sea,
quantities of sand and stones are
swept down whenever the streams
are swollen by rain. As a con-
sequence of this, the liver-beds
tend constantly to raise themselves
more and more above the general

248

Eoute 24. — The Nakasendo.

level of the country, which they
traverse like dykes. Occasionally
of course a dyke breaks down, and
then ensues an inundation with
attendant loss of life and property.
Soon after passing through Sumi-
yoshi, — an insignificant place not to
be confounded with the well-known
Sumiyoshi near Sakai, — the train
runs in to

Sannoraiya, and the long jour-
ney is at an end, Sannomiya being
the station for the foreign settle-
meni of Kobe. To go on one
station further, to what is ofificially
called

Kobe, would caiTy the traveller
past his destination into the native
town. It must therefore be dis-
tinctly borne in mind that, if bound
for Kobe, one must book only as
far as Sannomiya.

[For Kobe and neighbourhood,
see Route 33.]

ROUTE 24.

The Nakasendo.

Itirmrary of the Nakasendo from
Oifu to Oya.

GIFU to :— Ri Cho 31.

Unuma 4 31 llf

Ota 2 10 5J

Mitake 3 4 7i

Shizuki 2 — 5

Hambara 2 11 5|

Kamado 25 If

Takeori 1 30 4^

Oi 1 20 31

Nakatsu-gawa 2 24 6 J

Ochiai 17 3

Azuma 4 n 10

Midono 1 28 4^

Nojiri 2 11 5f

Suwara 1 29 4ri

Agematsu 3 7 74

FUKUSHIMA 2 11 5|

]VIiyanokoshi 2 11 5f

Yabuhara 1 35 4^

Narai 1 12 3^

Niegawa 1 29 4|

Motoyama 2 — 5

Seba 28 2

Shiojiri 1 28 4|-

SHIMO-NO-SUWA. 2 30 7

Wada 5 22 13|

Nagakubo (Shim-

machi) 2 15

Nagakubo (Furu-

machi) 19 IJ

Kami-Mariko 2 25 6|

OYA 2 — b"

Total 65 25 160^

The yakasentld, or Central Mountain
Road, is so named in contradistinction
to the Tokaido or Eastern Sea Road, and
the comparatively unimportant Hoku-
roku-do, or Northern Land Road In Kaga
and Etchu, between which it occupies a
middle po.sition. It runs from Kyoto to
Tokyo, passing through the provinces of
Yamashiro, Omi, ZSIino, Shinshu, Kotsuke,
and Musashi. The road seems to have
been originally constructed early in the
8th century. Legendary history states.
however, that in the reign of the Emperor
Keiko (A. D. 71-130), his son. Prince
Yamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pa.ss
during his conquest of Eastern Japan,
suggesting the inference that some kind
of track was believed to have existed there
from the very earliest times.

Though, properly speaking, the
Nakasendo runs the whole way
from Kydto to Tokyo, the portion
between Gifu and Karuizawa (or
Oya, which is off the road proper)
is the only one now usually done
by road, the so-called Tdkaido
Ilailway having usurped the place
of the Nakasendo between Kyoto
and Gifu, and the final section
across the Tokyo i^lain being also
now traversed by rail. Oya, on the
Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway (see
Route 26), is now generally adopted
as the terminal point of the jour-
ney, which takes 5 days. Travel-
lers may find it advantageoiis to
engage jinrikishas at Gifu for the
through jovirney. At the other
end it is more difficult to make

Front Gifu ■krMitake.

249

such an aiTangement. Constant
attention is paid by tlie govern-
ment to the improYement of the
Nakasendo, with the result that
jiniiMshas with two men will
soon be practicable throughout.
At present there still remain a few
steep hills, where those who can-
not walk must engage an extra
coolie or two. Those who intend
partly to walk and partly to ride,
are advised to take jinrikishas for
the first flat section as far as Mi-
take, then from Kamado to Oi, and
perhaps from Nakatsu-gawa on-
wards to Azuma-bashi, and thence
again at intervals to the foot of the
Torii-toge, perhaps from Motoyama
into Suwa, and again either from
Wada or Nagakubo into Oya
station.

The Nakasendo trip may be
shortened by half a day, and yet
the most picturesque portion
retained, by starting fi'om Nagoya
and taking train to Tajimi, whence
by jinrikisha to Kamado, 5 ri 2U cho
(13i- m.). The railway may ulti-
mately be pushed on to Kamado
and along the Nakasendo.

The Nakasendo traverses moun-
tainous, sparsely cultivated dis-
tricts, remote from populous cen-
tres ; and it used to be noted that
the peasantry along portions of
the route had a poverty-stricken
appearance. But the recent won-
derful development of the silk in-
dustry has done much to amelio-
rate their contlition ; and the ac-
commodation is everywhere good,
— judged, that is, from a country
stand-point. The best time for
travelling along the Nakasendo is
the summer or autumn. Between
December and April this route can-
not be recommended, on account of
the snow, especially on the passes.

On leaving Gifu, a flat country,
a good road, hills to the 1., many
villages, rice-fields at first, and
then a pleasant moorland partly
wooded, — such is the impression
left by the first stage of the

journey. Shortly after passing
Kano, a suburb of Gifu, the Tdkaidd
Railway line is crossed. Just before
reaching

XJnuma {Inn, Oshima-ya), we
see r., a couple of miles oil', the
keep (ienshu) of the castle of Naru-
se, lord of Inagi, in fair preserva-
tion, crowning a wooded hill be-
hind the rice-fields. Soon after,
we get our first sight of the river
which is to be our companion for
several days, — the Kiso-gaioa, —
already picturesque even thus far
down its course, with dark boul-
ders and reefs of rock that make
navigation dangerous for the boats
and rafts.

The Kiso-gawa ranks as one of the San-
dai-ka, or Three Great Rivers of Japan,
the other two being the Tonegawa and
the Shinano-gawa : but the Kiso-gawa is
incomparably the most beautiful. Rising
near the Torii-toge iu the province of
Shinshu, it runs for a length of laS miles,
and after forming an intricate delta which
is subject to dreadful floods, falls into the
Bay of Owari. The Nakasendo is often
called by the alternative name of Kiso-
Kaido, or Kiso-ji, that is, the " Road along
the Kiso."

Beyond Ota (Inn, Isogai), the
Kisogawa is crossed by ferry to
Ima-icaiari, — one of the few ferries
remaining on the beaten tracks.
The stream is singularly clear and
pure. A gradual ascent leads over
a rather dull bit of country to

Mitake (Inns, *Masu-ya, Ebi-ya).
Some small caves (hito-ana) in this
neighbourhood are popularly believ-
ed to have been the abode of the
prehistoric Emperor Keiko Tenno.
There are two himdred of them, all
facing S. in the sandstone rock.

The traveller should turn aside
at Shizuki to visit the Oni-iica, or
" Ogre's Kocks," engaging a local
guide. The detour occupies about
j hr., and the jinrikishas and lug-
gage can be rejoined at the top of
the Gara-isld-tixje.

Nearly seven hundred years ago — so
runs the legend — there lived an ogre
called Seki-no-Taro, who made his dwell-
ing among those gloomy rocks. Year
after veiir. at the yreat festival of ilitake

250

Route 24. — The Nakasendo,

on the 10th day of the second moon,
some beautiful maiden disappeared and
was no more heard of, because she had
been carried off and devoured ; but the
monster could not be caught. So the wise
men of the place devised a plan : — on
the next festival every one was to have a
mark painted on his forehead as he
entered the precincts, without which he
should not be suffered to leave again at
night. Accordingly, when all the rest had
departed, one man alone remained, ill-
favoured and of great stature, but lacking
the appointed sign. So they cut off his
head, whereupon both head and body
instantly grew too heavy to be moved and
had to be buried on the spot. From that
time forth the festival was never stained
with blood: and the grave, called Kubi-
sv.ka, is still vi-sited by persons afflicted
with any trouble iu the head. In the weird
gorge where the ogre held his revels, the
country-folks still point out the rock
from which the maidens were hurled
(Hito-sute-iwa), the Slicing Board {Mana-
ita), the Chopsticks {Sai-basJn), and others
many.

Coming to the Gara-islii-t5ge, we
find the hills dotted with scattered
boulders and scrub pine. From
the top of the pass, but a good deal
off the road on opjjosite sides of it,
may be reached two places called
Tsukiyoshi and Hiyoshi, the former
very rich in fossil shells, some of
which have been removed and
enshrined in a temple at the latter.

The local legend avers that some of these
fossils fell from the moon, others from
the sun, whence the names of the two
hamlets.

The Hamhara-toge is crossed be-
fore reaching Kamado. a village of
some local importance, as here a
road called the tihita Kaido, which
is much used for traffic, diverges to
Nagoya. It is mostly flat and excel-
lent going. Ontake now comes in
view ahead to the 1., while Ena-san is
seen to the r. (for these two celebrat-
ed mountains, see Rte. 31). The road
is very hilly most of the way to Oi,
and indeed on to Nakatsu-gawa and
Ochiai. The peasantry in the
district stretching eastward use an
odd kind of spade, heav)"^ and two-
handled. The diggers stand op-
posite each other, one delving, the
other using the second handle to
assist in raising the blade for the

next blow. Another local pecu-
liarity consists in the rows of bird-
cages under the eaves of most of
the houses in the villages passed
through. Each cage contains one
tsugume, a kind of thrush, used as
a decoy. These thrushes form a
welcome addition to monotonous
travelUng fare. When not in season,
— which is autumn and spring —
they are kept preserved in yeast
(koji-zuJce), and are eaten slightly
roasted. Further eastward another
small bird, called miyama, is treated
in the same way.

[The section of the Nakasend5
from Mitake to Oi is a com-
paratively new road (shindo) ;
the old road (kyudo) to the N. of
it, passing through the villages
of Hosokute and Okute, leads
over the Biwa-toge and a
succession of hills known as
the Ju-san-toge, or "Thirteen
Passes," none of which are
high.]

Nakatsu-gawa {Inn, Hashi-
rild), generally called Nakatsu for
short, lies close to the base of Ena-
san, and is the best starting-point
for the ascent of that mountain.
Here, as at other towns further on,
the traveller will be waked early
by the shriek of the sUk factory
whistle. The 1 ri on hence to Ochiai
is a succession of ups and downs.
The little town itself lies in a hol-
low by the side of an aflluent of the
Kiso-gawa, which river we now
rejoin and follow for two days
along the most beautiful part of its
course by a splendid jinriMsha
road.

[The old road over the Jik-koku-
toge, via Magome and Tsumago
(Inn, Matsushiro-ya), though 1
n shorter, is now rarely taken
by any but the jjostman. It
rejoins the new road at the
hamlet of Azuma.']

Soon we pass out of Mino into
the more varied and mountainous
province of Shinshti, and the river

Timber-felling. Nezame no Toko.

251

scenery becomes more and more
picturesque, -witli great overhang-
ing masses of rock and little
tributary waterfalls, before reach-
ing the hamlet of Azuma-bashi,
where a considerable affluent, the
Araragi-gawa, falls in r.

[A_ mountain road over the
Odaira-tof/e diverges here to lida
for the rapids of the Tenryu-
gawa, see Rte. 30.]
Between Midono (Inn, Matsu-
ya) and Nojiri, a poor place, is the
narrowest part of the valley. The
hills get more pointed and more
feathery-looking with their splen-
did timber, except in the too nu-
merous places where deforestation
has left its ruthless trace.

At some times and in some places, there
really seems to be more wood in the
river than water, 80,000 trees being sent
annually down stream, not in rafts but
singly, each stamped with its owner's
mark. The trees most esteemed are
hinoki and sawara. Several tracts apper-
tain to the Imperial domain, while others
now belong to the peasants. In former
days, when all the woods of Kiso were
owned by the Daimyo of Owari, stringent
forestry laws were enforced ; and where-
as ordinary trees might be hewn down at
will, the two species above-mentioned
and also keyaki, nezu, and asuhi, mij^ht not
have so much as a twig broken off, and
armed foresters were placed to shoot all
poachers dead. Any peasant found in
possession of a utensil made of one of the
forbidden kinds of woods was arrested.
In case of his having purchased any such
from a neighbouring province, it was in-
cumbent on him to infoi-m the authorities
of his own locality, who verified the
transaction and branded the article in
question with the official stamp. This
paternal despotism had at least the effect
of bequeathing splendid forests to poster-
ity. Immense havoc was done during
the turmoil which ushered in the new
regime, and only since about 1890 has
serious attention again been turned to
forest preservation. The Imperial do-
main is believed to be now economically
managed, but the peasants continue to
waste their newly acquired source of
wealth. The timber is felled in late
spring and summer, and floated down
stream in autumn and winter. A largo
number of men find employment as wood-
cutters, others are stationed along the
stream with bill-hooks to push off strand-
ed logs. At a place called jSTishikori in
Mino, hawsers are stretched across the

stream to prevent the logs from floating
further. There they are sorted and i-
dentified by government officials, and
afterwards bound by their respective
owners into rafts, most of which are
navigated down to Kuwana in the
province of Ise.

We cross the Inagawa, an afflu-
ent of the Kiso, which flows down
from Koma-ga-take, before rejoin-
ing the main river and entering
the town of

Suwara {Inn, Sakura-ya). This
lies in a more open part of the
valley, where much sUk is produced.
The mountains again draw in, and
the road becomes more hilly.
About 2 ri on is the cascade of Ono,
not very remarkable. Koma-ga-
take, of which only peeps have
been obtained hithex'to, is seen
excellently on entering the hamlet
of Nezame. In shape it exactly re-
sembles a saddle, two sharp little
knobs in the middle making its
resemblance to that instrument of
torture, a Japanese saddle, only
the more realistic. Native travel-
lers always stoxD at this hamlet to
see the Nezame no Toko, or " Bed
of Awakening."

This curious name is derived from a
local tradition which avers that Ura-
shima, the .Japanese Kip Van Winkle (see
p. 85), awoke in this spot from his long
dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, ex-
plain the name to mean that the view
"wakes up," that is, startles those who
come upon it.

Without going the whole way
down to the river, one can obtain a
good view of the rocky platform
from the gi'ounds of the poor temple
of Binsenji, where it appears far
below the spectator. There is the
rock on which Urashima opened the
casket (tama-te-bako), and others
resembhng a Hon, an elephant, a
mat, a screen, etc., are pointed out.
But Europeans ^vill probably be at
a loss here, as in several other
celebrated show-places in this
country, to understand why the
Japanese should have singled out
this special spot from among so
many lovely ones ; and when a

252

Route 24. — The Nakasendo.

native guide-book says that " its
noble character surpasses the
power of the mind fully to appre-
ciate, and of language adequately to
describe," one can but smile and
wonder.

Twelve cho beyond Nezame, we
pass r. a steep flight of steps, with
a stone marMng "4 ri 20 cho to
the summit of Koma-ga-take,"
and then we reach

Agematsu ( Inn, Haku-ichi).
Either this town or Fukushima
woidd be an excellent place for the
lover of mountain scenery to stay
at for a few days. Both Ontake
and Koma-ga-take can be con-
veniently ascended from these
points, and from the top to Koma-
ga-take one may descend to the
Ina Kaido for the rapids of the
Tenryu-gawa. The ascent and then
the descent on the other side could
be done under favourable circum-
stances in one extremely long day ;
but it is better to stop at the hut
recommended in our desciiption in
Route 31, No. 12, or at another hut
lower down.

A distance of 30 cho more through
similar charming scenery biings
one to the Eiso no Kakc-hashi, a
celebrated awkward bit, where in
ancient days the nan-ow footpath
clung with difficulty to the
precipitous rock. The excitement
of the passage has been lost by
successive improvements in the
road. Here pilgrims fi'om the west
cross the river for the ascent of
Ontake, of which sacred but bare
peak a good view is obtained a
little fiTrther on to the 1.

Fukushima [Inn, Suimei-ro) is a
good-sized town extending along
both banks of the river, and is the
most important place in the
district. Here the scenery of the
Nakasendo changes. The Kiso-
gawa loses its rocky wildness ; but
in exchange we shall soon have the
high passes ami extensive ^dews.

Miyanokoshi [Inn, Touari-ya)
was formerly the seat of the feudal
lord Kiso Yoshinaka. the graves of

whose family are still shown at the
temple of Tokuonji. The little
town of

Yabuhara {Inn, Kawakami-ya),
called Yagohara by some, is entirely
devoted to the manufacture of
combs. It stands at the foot of
the Torii-toge, at a height of 3,150 ft.
above sea-level.

[From Yabiihara, a road follows
the r. bank of the Kisogawa
nearly iip to its source, pass-
ing over into the province of
Hida.]

A good but very circuitous jin-
riMsha road leads over the pass,
without touching its summit ;
pedestrians are advised to take the
older and steeper but shorter way
which does. A similar remark ap-
plies to the descent on the other
side.

The name of this pass is derived from
the toiii on the top dedicated to Ontake,
the summit of which sacred m.ouutaiii is
visible hence. Strange as it may seem,
two battles were fought on this spot in
the 16th century, between some of the
rival chieftains who, during that period
of anarchy, disputed Eastern Japan
amongst them.

The torii at the top is a massive
granite structure. There are also
several quaint bronze and stone
images to be seen, both Buddhist
and Sliinto. Narai, which nestles at
the E. foot of the pass, offers fair
acommodation, though the vill. is a
poor one. Hirasaica is another
poor place, where cheap and com-
mon lacquered articles are made.
The scenery improves as we ap-
proach

Niegawa (Inn, *Oku-ya). The
river Kiso was left behind at the W.
side of the Torii-toge ; but we
remain in the Kiso tlistrict for a
httle longer, and follow- another
stream flo-wing between high, well-
wooded banks. We next pass
through Seha and Motoyama, where
jiniiMshas < »r hasha can be engaged
for the rest of the way to Shimo-
no-Suwa.

[Basha are also practicable
hence to the large town of

From Niegawa to Shimo-no-Satva.

•253

Matsumoto (see p. 260), 4J ri
clistaiit.]

The road is rather dull till reach-
ing the spot where the way to
Matsumoto branches off 1., while
we, keeping to the Nakasendo,
climb a short hill to a little uplaud
called Kikyo-ga-hama, which affords
a fine prospect, — Noiikura and Yari-
ga-take 1., and ahead the moun-
tains of central Shinshu. There is
yet another road to Matsumoto at
the vill. of Baimon, 10 cho before

Shiojiri {Inn, Kawakami). Be-
yond this town lies the Shiojiri-
toye, 3,340 ft., the second of the
high passes of the Nakasendo.
Here, as so often elsewhere, a choice
presents itself between two roads,
— the old one, bad but shorter, the
new whose practicability for jin-
riMshas is counterbalanced by its
length. The view from the top is
extensive and very beautiful.
Below hes Lake Suwa, with villages
studded over the adjacent plain. Of
the high mountains that almost
completely encircle its basin,
Yatsu-ga-take is the luost promi-
nent. To the r. of the dip at the
far end of the lake, the cone of
Fuji appears behind a nearer range.
The sharp peak further round to the
r. is the Koshu Koma-ga-take, while
more remote stretches the long
summit of Shirane-san. A little
further back, the top of Ontake is
visible. Just behind are the lofty
peaks of the range separating the
plain of Matsumoto from the prov-
ince of Hida. The descent on the
other side is quite easy. Just before
Shimo-no-suwa, we pass 1. a
splendid bronze torli erected in
1892 at the entrance to the Aki-
rM-MUja, a famous Shinto temple.

Shimo-no-Suwa {hms, Kikyo-
ya, with private hot springs ; Maru-
ya,and many others), lies in a basin,
the greater part of which is occupied
by Lake Suwa, \ hr. walk from the
town.

This lake, almost circular iu form, is
said to be 35 ft. deep, but is slowly filliug

up. It.'? present diameter is about 2J
miles. It freezes over most winters ao
solidly that heavily laden pack-horses can
cross over to Kami-nn-SuvM with perfect
safety near its S. E. extremity. The in-
habitants do not, however, venture upon
the ice until it has cracked across, believ-
ing this to be a sign from heaven. Some
attribute the cracking to the foxes. During
the winter the fishermen make holes in
the ice through which they insert their
nets and manage to take a considerable
quantity of lish, especially carp. From
the S. end of Lake Suwa issues the
Tenryii-gawa, which flows into the sea
near Hamamatsu on tbe Tokaido.

Shimo-no-SuAva ii-; celebrated for
its hot springs, the principal of
which, called Woia-^w-yu, has a
temperature of 113°.9 F. Of the
two other principal sources in the
town, one called Ko-yu, which con-
tains alum, has the high tempera-
ture of 145°.4 ; the other, called
Tanga-yu, has a temperature of
114:°.«S. As in the case of many
Jaj)anese spas, Shimo-no-Suwa is
apt to be noisy of an evening. In
the day-time it is busy with the
silk industry. Within one hoiu- of
the town are scattered nearly a
hundred filatures, producing the
best silk in Japan. The largest
establishments employ over two
hundred hands. Quinces, which
ripen in October, are also produced
in great abundance. Wild cats
■v\'ith long tails inhabit this district,
noticeably different from the short-
tailed cat of E. Japan.

Two great Shinto shrines, called
respectively Haru-no-Miya (Spring
Temple) and Aki-no-Miya (Autumn
Temple), — the former situated near
the inns, the latter on the E. out-
skirts as already indicated, — have
long been celebrated, but are now
fallen into lamentable decay.

They derive tlieir appellations from the
fact that the divinities there worshipped
are believed to change their abode from
one to the other according to the season,
moving in to the Haru-no-Miya on the
1st February, and into the Aki-no-Miya
on the 1st August, on each of which oc-
casions a procession takes place. The god
and goddess worshipped are named re-
spectively Take-mina-gata-tome-no-Miko-
to and JVIai-no-yasaka-touie-no-Mikoto.

254 Route 25. — By Steamer from Yokohama to Kobe.

The way now leads up towards
the Wada-toge, at first through a
didl valley, between hills of in-
considerable height. The stone
monument passed on the way is
to the memory of six warriors, who,
surprised here by the enemy, com-
mitted harakiri rather than sur-
render. This was in December,
1863.

The Wada-toge is the longest and
highest pass on the Nakasendd,
being 5,300 ft. above the level of the
sea. Snow lies on it up to the end
of April, but is seldom so deep as
to block the road. The glorious
view from the summit may best
be enjoyed by chmbing one of
the mounds to the 1. of the road,
involving i hr. delay. To the N.E.
rises Asama-yama; to the S.E.
Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ; S.W.
the eye rests upon the basin of
Lake Suwa ; further to the W.
stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake,
while to the N.W. a great portion
of the Hida-Shinshti range is visible.
Five cho down one reaches the
cluster of tea-houses (Kiso-ya and
Tsuchi-ya are the best) collectively
known as

Hig-ashi Mochiya. In case of
having to spend the night, this
would be found a better jAace to
stay at than Wada, which hes at
the N.E. foot of the pass, as the
latter is apt to be crowded in sum-
mer -with pilgrims going to Ontake.

N'ag-aku'bo is a double vill.,
whose two halves, Nagakubo-Shim-
machi (Lm, YamazakL-ya), and Na-
gakubo-Furumachi, He over a mile
apart. The former stands near
the foot of the Kasatori-toge, over
which the old Nakasendo highway
via Mochizuki, Iwamiirata, and Oi-
wake leads. It is now more xisual,
as indicated in our Itinerary, to
curtail the journey by branching
off N. down the valley of the
Idagawa, an easy ride into

Oya (Inn, Oya-kwan), a smaU
station on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu
Railway. Here the traveller is

within Ih hr. of the favourite
Slimmer resort of Karuizawa, with
hotels in foreign style ; or he
can go straight into Tokyo (see
Eoutes 13 and 12).

ROUTE 25.

By Steamee peom Yokohama to
Kobe.*

While steaming down Tokyo Bay,
there is a good view of Fuji with
the Hakone range in the foreground
on the r ; on the 1. is the flat shore
of the province of Kazusa. At 1
hr., the ship will be near Kwannon-
zaki, on which there is a fixed white
light visible 14 miles, showing a red
ray in a certain direction to guide
vessels clear of Saratoga Spit (Fut-
tsu-saM) and Plymouth Eocks to the
southward.

Powerful forts have been con-
structed on Kwannon-zaki, on Sara-
toga Spit, and also in the centre of
the channel in 26 fathoms of water,
for the defence of the Bay. After
passing Kwannon-zaki, the ship
steers down the Uraga Channel,
so called from the town of that
name (p.l06) on the shores of a small
harbour a few miles S.W. of Kwan-
non-zaki, which was formerly the
port of entry for Tokyd Bay. At 2
hrs., Tsurugi-saki — the south end
of the channel — is rounded, where
there is a hght visible 24 m.
Thence the track lies S.W. to Bock
Island across the Bay of Sagami,
which opens on the r., and close
past the north end of Vries Island,
described in Koute 8. From 4 to 6
hrs., the ship will be running almost
parallel to the coast of the pen-

* The expressions ' at 1 hour,' ' at 2
hours,' etc., in the description of this
voyage, signify ' when the steamer has
been 1 hour out of Yokohama,' ' 2 hours
out of Yokohama,' etc., taking 12 knots
per hour as the average speed.

Whaling off the Coast of Kishu.

255

insula of Izu (Kte. 7), within 10 m.
of the shore. A fine prospect may
be enjoyed of its rugged ruoiintain
chain, with Fuji, which towers be-
hind, bearing N.W. The island
beyond Vries, looking like a cocked-
hat, is Toshima, the second of
the Seven Isles of Izu. At 6
hrs.. Rock Island {Mikomoto), off
the extreme S. of Izu, is reach-
ed ; on it is a fine light visible 20
m. Fi'om Eock Island, the direct
route is W. S. W. to the S.E. ex-
tremity of the province of Kishu.
This course, which is followed in
the summer months, leads the ship
so far off shore that there is little
to be distinguished. But in winter
the N.W. winds generally blow so
strongly that, to avoid the heavy
sea, the ship, after passing Rock
Island, is kept due W., crossing the
mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9
hrs. is off Omae-zaki, distinguish-
able at night by a white revolving
light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60
m. distant, and will not be seen
much after this point except in
clear winter weather. From Omae-
zaM the track recedes for some
hours from the land, which, being
low, is not particularly interesting;
and if the ship left Yokohama just
before sunset, this part vnl\ be
passed in the night. At 13 hrs. the
ship is off Owari Bay, a deep bay
stretching some 30 m. to the north-
ward, narrow at the entrance, but
widening out considerably inside.
It is from Omae-zaM to this point
that the voyage is generally most
trying to bad sailors. At 15 hrs.
the ship is off Cape Shima, whence
to Oshima is a run of 70 m., grad-
ually approaching the land, where
fine views of the bold and pictur-
esqe mountains of the proviaces of
Kishu and Yamato are obtained.

This Oshima is of course different from
the Oshima (Vries Island) mentioned
above. There are numerous Oshima's off
the Japanese coast, which is not to be
wondered at as the name simply means
" big island." This particular Oshima has
been the scene of repeated maritime dis-

asters. The most terrible in recent years
was the foundering of the Turtish man-of-
war "Ertougroul" on the 16th sfeptember,
1890, when ij02_ men perished out of a
crew of .571. Oshima and its neighbour-
hood form an important whaling centre.
The whaling guilds conduct their opera-
tions according to an elaborate system,
described by Rev. R. B. Grinnan in the
Japan Mail. Minute laws regulate the
construction of the boats and weapons
employed, and the functions of the
various classes of men engaged. The
following description of the modus
operandi is somewhat condensed : — "The
signals are a very important part of the
work. INIen with glasses are arranged on
three different mountains, one above the
other. The man from the highest point,
being able to see furthest, gives the first
notice as to the approach of a whale by
lighting a fire and raising a smoke, and at
the same time by means of his flag he
signals to the men on the mountain
below, and they in turn signal to the
boats. It is necessary for the men in the
boats to know beforehand what kind of
whale is coming, also his size and distance
from the land ; for the attack differs
according to these three things. The
species of the whale is known in most
cases by the manner in which the water
is spouted up. The first thing to be done
when the boats move out, is to put down
the nets across the path of the whale.
This is rather difiicult to do correctly, for
in the first jilace they must be arranged
according to the species of the whale.
Another thing to be calculated on is the
strength and course of the tide. One
fighting boat goes to each net boat, to
assist in arranging the nets in their proper
order. Not all of the nets are put down
at first. The nets that are put down are
placed one after the other in parallels, with
slight cuives, with short spaces inter-
vening. After the first net is laid, the
others are all arranged a little to the
right or left, so that when all the nets
are down they slant off' to one side or the
other, and thus cover a broader space
across the path of the whale. As soon as
the nets are arranged the net boats draw
off on each side and look on. Then some
of the fighting boats go around behind
the whale to attack from that point,
while others arrange themselves on the
sides so as to drive the whale into the
nets. Those from behind strike with the
hai-poons and run the lines out. The
whale then rushes forward, and must be
driven into the nets. Then a wild scene
ensues, and every eflbrt is made to sur-
round the whale that is making frantic
efforts to escape. He often does escape;
but if he does not, he is soon surrounded
by nearly three hundred naked yelling
men, who throw harpoons and stones
in such numbers that the huge prey
is overcome. It is really an awful as

256

Boide ^liS.—By Simmer from Yokohama to Kobe

well as pitiable sight; for the noble
animal uutll very weak makes furious
efforts to escape, rushing forward and
coming up again to beat the sea into a
bloody foam, at times smashing the boats
or overturning them ; and above all the
din and yelling of the men, can often be
heard the plaintive cry of the whale as
the deadly weapons sink deep into his
flesh. Before the whale is dead, and
while he is rushing forward, a man with
a very sharp knife leaps on his back near
the head, and slashes two great gashes
into the flesh, and passes a large rope
several times around in the flesh, leaving
a loop on the outside : the same kind of
loops are made in the flesh nearer the tail.
This is done in order that the whale may be
tied up between two large boats to beams
stretched across, and thus kept from
sinking when he dies. In this way he is
carried in triumjih to the shore. The
operation of cutting the holes and putting
in the ropes is only done by the bravest
and most skilful men {nazashi). While
the holes are being cut and the ropes
passed in the man must hold on to the
whale, and even go down with him into
the water if he dives : for if he lets go,
he is liable to be struck by the whale's
tail and killed. The only thdng to do is to
tuck his head down and cling to the
animal by the holes he has cut. He
cannot raise his head, because he will at
once be blinded by the water being driven
into his eyes. When the fight draws to a
close and the huge mammal is dying, all
the whalers pray for the ease of the
departing spirit by calling out Jbraku!
Joraku! Joraku! in alow deep tone of
voice. Again, on the third day after the
whale is taken, a memorial service is held
and jirayers oifered for the repose of the
departed soul. If a baby whale is captur-
ed, a special maUuri is held on the ninth
day afterwards . As soon as the whale is
landed he is cut up, and it is a fearful
sight ; for the men strip themselves of all
clothing, and hack and cut like madmen,
all yelling .at the same time with the
greatest excitement. Some men even cut
holes and go bodily into the whale, and,
coming out all covered with blood, look ■
like horrid red devils. Most of the
whales taken are about 50 ft. long."

From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is the
most enjoyable jiart of the run
from Yokohama to Kobe. Round-
ing Oshima, which is marked by a
white revoMng light visible 18
mUes at 20 hrs., the vessel is close
enough to the shore to note the
thickly studded fishing villages,
whose fleets of boats cover the
water for miles^ Half an hour's
steaming from Oshima brings us to

Shio-MisaM, on which is a light
visible 20 m. From Shio-ilisaki the
track lies close along the shore —
sometimes within 2 m., seldom
more than -4 m. — to Hiino-Misaki,
a run of 47 m., which, if made in
daylight, will be even more enjoy-
able than the 70 m. mentioned
above. The bold hills to the r. are
those of the i^rovince of Kishxi.
The land to the 1. is the E. coast
of the Island of Shikoku. At 2.5
hrs., the ship is ofE Hiino-]\'Iisald,
and after steering due north for 26
m., will pass through Izumi or
Yura Strait, which is about 6 m.
wide, the passage for ships being
narrowed to 2 m. by two islands
called Ji-no-shima and OM-no-
shima, on the W. side of which
latter is a lighthotise. Observe
both r. and 1. how the heights have
been levelled for the erection of
forts, to protect this approach to
Osaka and Kobe. From the light
on the islet in Y'ura Strait to Kobe
is a run of 26 m. across a com-
pletely landlocked bay, with the
large Island of Awaji on the left.
Kobe is generally reached at from
28 to 30 hrs. The highest hill seen
to the r., vdiYs. white temple build-
ings sparkling in the sun, is Maya-
san ; the highest away to the 1. be-
hind Hyogo is Takatori.

Passenger steamers usually re-
main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which affords
an opportunity to visit Ky5to.

The chief ^stances of the run
between Y'okohama and Kobe, as
made by the Nippon Yusen Kwai-
sha steamers, are as follows : —

Yokohama to : — MUes.

Lightship 2

Kwannon-zaki 14

Cape Sagami 23

Rock Island 74

Oshima 244

Hiino-Misaki 297

Oki-no-shima 322

Hyogo Point 346

Company's Buoy 348

SECTION III.

CENTRAL JAPAN

Routes 26 — 42.

Route 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway. 2.^9

ROUTE 26.

Kakuizawa-Naoetsu-Niigata
Railway.

matsumoto. temple of zenkoji.

excubsions fbom na gang. lake

nojiki. ascent of myoko-

zan. island of sado.

0, 1

Names

Remarks

toil P

Q OS

Stations

■ Tokyo to Ka-

KARUIZAWA.

). niizawa (see
( Rte. 12).

8m.

Miyoda

13i

Komoro

191

Tanaka

214

Oya

( Alight for Na-

( -kasendo. •

24^

UEDA

, Eoad to Ma-
1 taumioto.

31i

Sataki

371

Yashiro

40i

Shinonoi

NAGANO

483

Yoshida

1 Road to Kuea-

522

ToyoDO

j tsu over the
Shibu-toge.

57;;

Mure

Kashiwabaia

I Alight for
' Lake Nojiri.

69^

Taguchi

( Alight for
* Akakuia.

73^

Sekiyama

81J

Aral

87-^

Takata

NAOETSU

921

Kasuga Shinden

96J

Salgata

Katamachi

loa

Kakizaki

106i

Hassaki

114+

Kashiwazaki

119:1

Kitajo

126j

Tsukaiio-yama

1311

RaiROji

135^

MiyaucLi

137i

NAGAOKA

1441^

Mitsuke

147"

Obiori

150|
151^

SANJO

( Alight for
t Yahiko.

Iclii-no-kido

156J

Kamo

1(53^

Yashiroda

167

NiitBU

172-!

Kameda

\^^

NIIGATA (Nut-

tari)

This line, starting from an ele-
vation of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa,
descends to the sea-coast at Nao-
etsn, and so far is the most pic-
turesque railway route in Japan.
The second section, fi-om Naoetsu
to Niigata, is vastly inferior. The
first five or six miles are over a
fairly level plain ; but the condi-
tions are changed when the south-
ern slope of Asama-yama has to
be rounded. Here lies a water-shed
whence flow large rivers north and
south, towards the Sea of Japan
and the Pacific respectively. All
the di'ainage of the great volcano
pours down through deep gullies
into the channel of one or other
of these rivers. The soil, a loosely
packed volcanic ash and gravel of
light colour, is easily scooped away,
and large chasms are left whose
sides the highway descends and
ascends in zigzags. Throughout
most of this section, the traveller
looks down fi"om a giddy height on
rice-fields far below. From a point
near Oiwake, where the Nakasendo
is left behind, on to Komoro,
opportunities are afforded of seeing
to advantage the Iwamurata plain,
backed by the imposing range of
Yatsu-ga-take. Asama-yama has a
less smiling aspect on this side ; the
flat top of the cone lengthens out,
the pinky brown colour of the sides
assumes a blackish hue, and chasms
rough with indurated lava break the
regularity of the slopes. Before
Komoro is reached, a long volcanic
ridge, dominating the valley of
the river Chikuma as far as Ueda.
reveals the fact that Asama is not
an isolated cone, but the last and
highest of a range of mountains.
A former crater, which has dis-
charged itself into this valley and
is now extinct, displays a row of
black jagged rocks in the hollow
between Asama and the next peak
of the range, — a striking feature as
seen from Komoro.

Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya; Tea-
house, in public garden with pretty
view) is a busy commercial centre.

260

Route 26. — Kariiizawa-NaoetsiL'2^iigata Railway.

Pormerly the seat of a Daimyo, it
has turned its picturesque castle-
ground overhanging the river, into
a public garden. Saddlery, vehi-
cles, and tools for the surrounding
district are manufactured here. A
short description of the old
Monastery of 8hakusonji, vrhich lies
1 ri from the station, will be found
on p. 184.

From Komoro to Ueda the rail-
way runs down the valley of the
Chihmna-gatca, whose 8. bank is
here formed by a series of bold
bluffs, in many places descending
sheer into the water. This river,
also called the Shinano-gawa, flow-
ing towards the N., becomes one of
the great rivers of Japan, and falls
into the sea at Niigata. The massive
Shinshu-Hida range is now also in
sight, its mountains, even in the
height of summer, being streaked
with snow. A few miles before
Ueda, the valley opens out into a
chcular j)lain of which that town
is the centre.

Oya [Inn, Oya-kwan, at station),
though a tiny place, has some
importance for travellers as having
become, since 1891, the starting-
point for the journey down the
Nakasendo (see Route 24).

Ueda [Inns, Uemura-ya, Tsuzuki-
ya, both wdth branches at station)
possesses few attractions. White
and other silks of a durable quality
are the principal products of the
district. It is specially noted for a
stout striped silk fabric called TJeda-
jima.

[The important town of Matsu-
moto may be reached from
Ueda by jinrikisha (2 men
necessary) over the Hofukuji-
ioge, 4,400 ft. high, the distance
being 11 ri 25 cho (280- m.).
The summit of the pass affords
a comparatively narrow pros-
pect in the direction of Matsu-
moto, but commands, on look-
ing backwards, a fine mountain
panorama, including Asama-
yama and Shirane-san. Before

descending into the plain, one
of the grandest views in
Japan discloses itself. The
whole Hida range spreads out
before the spectator, Yari-ga-
take being specially conspi-
cuous by its spear-shaped
peak which resembles the Mat-
terhorn. In the foregi'ound
are well-wooded hills, in
the distance the river winds
like a sUver thread. A branch
railway is in course of con-
struction from Shinonoi near
Nagano, which, passing
through Inari-yama and Omi,
will strike across to the valley
of the Saigawa at Kawate, and
reach Matsiimoto. The project
inchides an extension from
Matsumoto to Shiojiri on the
Nakasendo.

Matsumoto [Inns, Maru-mo
at Hitotsu-bashi, and Mangiku
in Uramachi) is the centre of
trade between the southern
part of this province and the
province of Echigo. It stands
in the midst of a wide, fertile
plain, bordered on all sides by
magnificent mountain ranges.
A picturesque portion of the
castle of the former Daimyo
stni remains. The principal
local products are silk (though
not the finest quality), candied
fruits, socks, and baskets and
boxes of bamboo work. The
largest filature, called Eaimei-
sha, is situated at Shimizu, a
short distance S. E. of the
town.

Rather than stop at Matsu-
moto, those in search of pure
air and the picturesque should
repair to the spruce little \Tli.
of Asama, 30 did to the N.E.,
noted for its hot springs. Of
the numerous inns, the best is
the * Me-no-yu.

Bnsha run from Matsumoto
to Seba on the Nakasendo, 4 j-i
17 cho (11 m.).

Matsumoto forms convenient
headquarters for expeditions

Matsumoto and No/jano.

261

among the great mountains
described in Route 31. A
pleasant river trip can also be
made hence down the Saigawa
to Shimmachi, the cheap public
boat leaving Matsumoto every
morning and arriving about 3
P. M. A jjiivate boat (1900)
costs 15 yen. The Sanseiji
gorge, which is passed about
half-way, offers fine rocky
landscapes. There are num-
bers of floating rice-mills of a
primitive type, consisting of a
house-boat moored in the cur-
rent, and having a paddle-wheel
on each side actuated by the
passing water. They look like
a fleet of paddle-boats continu-
ally going against the stream,
but making no headway. From
Shimmachi it is 4 ri over a hiUy
road to Shinonoi, whence train
to Nagano. The head waters
of the Saigawa are near Lake
Suwa. It joins the Chikuma-
gawa a short distance to the
S.E. of Nagano, combining with
this latter to form the great
Shinano-gawa.]

The old castle of Ueda, of which
•one watch-tower stiU remains in-
tact, stands on the river bank be-
yond the town. The exit from
the amphitheatre of hills enclosing
Ueda is narrow and hidden from
view. Just before the hne ap-
proaches it, a curious bluff with
a cave in its face is noticeable on
the other side of the river.

Before reaching Yashiro, there is,
on the other side of the river, a hill
with the curious name of Oba-sute-
yama, that is, " the Hill where the
Aunt was Abandoned."

It is explained by a legend which tells
us that the abandoned one was Oyama-
bime, aunt to Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-Hime,
the lovely goddess of Fuji, who married
Ninigi-no-,\likoto, the first ancestor of the
Imperial family of Japan. This Oyama-
bime was so ugly, ill-tempered, envious,
and malicious that none of the gods
would take her in marriage. Her nephew
and niece, in despair thut her evil disposi-
tion should thus stand in the way of her

happiness, entreated her to reform, but
in vain. At last the younger goddess
suggested that a tour through the beauti-
ful scenery of Shinano, where she might
contemplate the moon from some lofty
mountain-top, would be likely to have "a
softening eflect. So they set out together,
and after surmounting innumerable
peaks, at length reached this place.
Saku-ya-Hime mounted a stone, and
pointing with her finger, said to her
aunt, "Yonder is a rock. Climb up it
and look calmly round, and your heart
will be purified." The aunt, tired with
her long .iourney, melted under the
gentle influences of the harvest moon.
Turning to her niece, she said, "I will
dwell forever on this hill-top, and join
with the God of Suwa in watching over
the land." And with these words, she
vanished in the moonbeams. — This
legend, though told of Shinto divinities,
is probably of Buddhist origin.

At Yashiro a road branches off
to the important town of Matsu-
shiro, and down the r. bank of the
Chikuma-gawa to Niigata. Before
reaching Nagano, both the Chiku-
ma and the Saigawa are crossed.
One of the spans of the Saigawa
viaduct is 200 ft. long.

Nagano {Inns, Fuji-ya, semi-
foreign; Ogi-ya; Europ. Restt., Seiyo-
ken), is the capital of the prefecture
of Nagano, which comprises the
whole province of Shinshu. It is
beautifully situated at the foot of
lofty mountains, which form an im-
posing background and almost sur-
round it. A considerable trade is
done in woven goods and agricul-
tural implements. Numerous fine
bifildings in foreign style, and
crowds of pilgrims thronging the
streets, give the town an air of ex-
ceptional prosperity. The Japanese
Club, called Jdzan-ktcan, which has
a room of 144 mats, commands a
fine prospect. The Buddhist Temple
of Zenkdji, belonging to the Tendai
sect, is one of the most celebrated
in the whole empire, and was found-
ed as far back as A.D. 670, though
the oldest portion of the present
buildings dates only from the latter
half of the l&th century. It is de-
dicated to Amida and his two fol-
lowers, Kwannon and Daiseishi, a
gi'oup of whose images is here en-

262 Route 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu-Niiyata Railway.

shrined ; also to Honda Yoshimitsu
and his wife and son, Yayoi-no-Mae
and Yoshisiike, who are worshipped
as the pious fo^inders.

The sacred group is said to have been
made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold
found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the
Universe. After various vicissitudes in
China and Korea, it v, as brought to Japan
in A.D. 552. as a present from the King of
Korea to the Mikado on the first intro-
ductiou of Buddhism into Japan. All the
efforts of the Japanese enemies of Bud-
dhism to make away with the image were
in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at,
burnt, it survived all, and finally found a
resting-place at Zeukoji in A.D. 602.

The popular Japanese proverb " Ushi ni
hikareti; Zenkoji-inaiH," lit. " to be led to
the Zenkoji pilgrimage by a cow " refers
to an old legend. A cow, so the story
goes, ran off one day with a piece of cloth
which a wicked old woman had set out to
dry, and was pursued by her to the
temple, where Buddha, appearing in a
halo of light, softened her heart and re-
warded her even in this world by restor-
ing her washing to her when she reached
home again. The proverb applies to good
coming out of evil.

Rows of shops for the sale of
rosaries and pictures of the sacred
triad line the court. Behind the
shops are the houses of the priests,
each in its own trimly laid-out
garden. At the end of this coiu't
is the chief gateway, with images
of Monju and the Shi-Tenno, which
are exhibited only on New Y^ear's
day. The building 1. of the entrance,
called Dai-Hongican, is the resi-
dence of an abbess belonging to the
Imperial family {Ama Miya Sama),
and of a sisterhood of nuns. It
was rebuilt in the old style during
the years 1890-1900, and glitters
with gold. The gaUeiy behind is
used to exhibit pictures and other
works of art on special occasions,
whence the visitor passes to the
princess's private oratory and her
reception room. Higher up and
also to the 1., is the Dai-Eanshin,
the residence of the abbot, now in
process of reconstruction. Both
sets I of buildings have pretty
gardens. At one or other, accord-
ing to ckcumstances, rehgious pic-
tures and charms are sold, also

shirts called kt/d-kafabira, Ut.
"sutra shirts." Each pilgrim pur-
chases one. and keeps it by him
till the hour of death, to be dressed
in it for burial. At the same time,
what is called a kechi-myaku — a par-
ticular kind of charm — is placed in
the corpse's hand.

The Main Temple, erected in
1701, is a two-storied building 198
ft. in depth by 108 ft. in width,
with a huge three-gabled roof, so
that the ridge is T-shaped. This
form is called shumoku-zukuri,
from its resemblance to the sh'w-
moku, a wooden hammer "svith
which the Budtlhists strike the
small bell used by them in their
religious serTices. The roof is
supported by 136 pillars, and there
are said to be 69,384 rafters, the
same ntunber as that of the written
characters contained in the Chin-
ese version of the Buddhist scrip-
tures. The sacred golden group,
standing in a shrine on the W.
side, is kept in a reliquary dating
from A. D. 1369, shrouded by a
CTirtain ot gorgeous brocade. For
a moderate fee, the curtain is raised
so as to show the outermost of the
seven boxes in which the image is
enclosed. A space of 88 mats
(about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for
the worshippers. On the E. side of
the main hall is an entrance to a
dark gallery which runs round
below the floor of the chancel
{naijin), issuing again by the same
door. To complete this circuit
{kaiclan-maicari or tai-nai-^meguri)
thrice, is believed to save the
pilgrim from the peril of eternal
damnation, ilore thsm '200 bronze
and stone lanterns crowd the space
in front of the main hall.

In front of the Kyozo, or Sacred
Library, on the 1. of the main
building, are two praying- wheels in
stone, fixed in pedestals 7 ft. high,
and bearing the invocation " Namv.
Amida Bvtsu.'

The principal festivals are the
Dai Nemhuisii, or (Jreat Invocation
of Buddha, held on the 31st

Ascent of Togakushi-san S Izuna-san.

263

July, those held at the vernal and
autumnal equinoxes, and one on
the 14th March, in commemoration
of the terrible earthquake which
shook this region in 1847. The
13th July is a civic gala day. A
specially grand festival is held once
every seven years in April and
May ; the last of these occurred in
1900.

On the r. of the temple enclosure
is the Public Garden, which com-
mands a good view of the valley.

Excursions from Nagano.

1. Burando Yakushi, 1 ri N.E.
of the town, a shrine dedicated to
the Buddhist god of medicine, is
perched high above the path in a
large tree growing out of the
rock. Close by are some petroleum
springs.

2. Tog-akuslxi-san and Ken-
no-mine. Five ri from Nagano
stands the temple of Togakushi-san,
whither the god Tajikara-o-no-
Mikoto is said to have hurled
the rocky door of the cavern in
which the Sun-Goddess had hidden
herself (see the legend as given on
p. 45). The road, which is passable
for jinrikishas, leaves the town on
the 1. side of the temple of Zenkdji,
and winds up a narrow ravine to the
hamlet of Arayasu, whence, lead-
ing over low hills, it reaches the
rest-house called Nyuzaka in 45
min., and then issues on to the
moor which encircles the base of
Izuna-san at a height of 3,750 ft.
above the sea. In 15 min. more
we come to two tea-houses known
as Okubo. The path then descends
for about 1 m. to a point where it
divides, the r. branch proceeding
direct to the vill. of Togakusld
(Inn, Kambara), at the upper end of
which the Chursha temple is situa-
ted, the 1. reaching the Hoko-sha
after 12 cho more. The latter
temple, standing at the top of
a long flight of steps Hned with
old cryptomerias, is a spacious
building decorated with carvings

of some merit. From the Hoko-
sha to the village is a pleasant
walk of 12 cho through a wood.
Except for their beautiful sur-
roundings, little remains about the
temples to attract the visitor ;
a fine modern bronze water-basin
in the lower court of the Chu-sha,
and the sepia drawing on the
roof of the main hall are, however,
worth inspection. The road to the
Oku-sha (30 cho) is almost level
the whole way, except during the
last few hundred yards. It stands
at the head of a romantic ravine,
and commands a tine view in-
cluding the summits of Fuji and
Asama-yama.

Those who intend to climb Ken-
no-mine (8,080 ft.) will do best to
pass the night at Togakushi. Whe-
ther one ascends via Omoie-yama
(6,000 ft.), and passes thence along
the rTigged ridge to Ura-yama in
order to make the complete circuit,
or takes the latter only, a long day
should be allowed for the expedi-
tion. The path up Omote-yama
leads directly behind the priest's
house at the Oku-sha, and is so
precipitous in parts that chains
have been affixed to the trees
and rocks for the benefit of pil-
grims. Waraji are indisi^ensable.
To ascend Ura-yama only, one does
not touch the Oku-sha, but takes
the path which ch verges from the
main road to Kashiwahara at about
1 ri from Togakushi. The distance
to the summit is variously estimat-
ed at from 4 to 5 ri. A Httle below
stands a hut where pilgrims pass
the night, in order to -witness
sunrise from the peak, whence
Amida is supposed to be \isible
riding on a cloud of manv colom-s.

3. Izuna-san (6,080 ft.) should
be ascended fiom the vill. of Toga-
kushi, whence the summit may be
gained in 2 hrs. easy walking up a
long spur. Another path, by wluch
the descent is usually made, strikes
up from the moor on the Nagano
side, 20 min. beyond the Nyiizaka
tea-hoiLse mentioned above ; but it

264 Itoule 26. — Karuizawa-Naoetsu'Niigata Railway.

is exceedingly steep .and covered
with dense undergrowth. A hut,
in which pUgiims sleep, occupies
one side of the summit. The "view
is Yery extensive in every direction.
The descent takes rather less than
2 hrs., and emerges on the moor at
a point where the traveller may
either return to Arayasu, or strike
away to the 1. by a path leading
over the moor to Kashiwahara
station, — a 3 hrs. walk.

The railway from Nagano con-
tinues along the plain as far as

Toyono {Inn, Sakamoto-ya).
Here it enters a naiTow valley,
which it follows up until Kashiwa-
hara is reached at a height of 2,200
ft. At Toyono, a road leads over
the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see j).
192). A fine view is obtained of
Izuna-san on the 1. as

Kashiwabara is approached.
This section of the line traverses a
region where the snowfall is pecu-
liarly heavy, drifts occasionally ac-
cumulating to a depth of over
10 ft., and stopping all traffic for
weeks at a time.

[The traveller with time to spare
should alight here to visit the
beautiful little lake called No-
jiri-ko, 1 ri distant, and then
proceed to the hamlet of Aka-
kura, 3 rl further, lying on the
side of Myoko-zan, and noted
for its hot springs. Jinrikishas
can be taken all the way.
Those going direct to Akakura
ahght at the next station,
Taguchi, from which the baths
are 34 cho distant by jinilkisha.
The way from Kashiwabara is
through a pleasant oak-wood,
whence it descends slightly to
Nojiri (small inn), situated
on the shores of the lake,
which is suiTounded by low
hills covered with thickets. On
a densely wooded islet is a
temple called Uga-no-Jinja. In
front of the temple stand two
magnificent cryptomerias, one
of which measures 27 ft. in

circumference. The view of
the giant masses of Izuna,.
Kurohime, and Myoko-zan, as
seen from the island, is ex-
ceptionally fine. The waters
of the lake find an outlet into
the Sekigawa, which, flowing
from sources on Togakushi-
san and Yakeyama, falls into
the sea at Naoetsu.

Akakura is a favourite
stimmer resort of the inhabi-
tants of Takata and other
places on the plain. It posses-
ses many Inns, the *Kogaku-r6
best, with European food, open
from June to October inclusive,
and numerous baths, public and
private, which are supplied
with hot water brought in pipes
from sources 2 ri further up
the mountain. From the ham-
let nothing obstructs the glori-
ous prospect of the rich plain
extending down to Naoetsu on
the Sea of Japan, and of the
island of Sado on the dim
horizon. About 3 ri off, be-
tween Kurohime and My6k5-
zan, is a large waterfall called
Nae no taki. Akakura is the
most convenient point from
which to ascend

Myoko-zan (8,180 ft.). This
mountain is not free from snow
until July. The ascent can be
made by a good walker in 3
hours. There are two paths,,
passing respectively by Slina-
mi Jigoku-dani and Kita
Jigoku-dani. Traversing the
httle public garden at the top
of the village street, the last-
mentioned goes straight on,
while the former bears to the 1.
This has more varied scenery,
and is somewhat shorter. The
path leads through the long
grass for some distance, and
then climbs steeply to a point
whence Fuji is seen, — 50 cho
from Akakura. At about 2 ri,
the hut of the sulphur workers
beloAv Minami Jigoku-dani is
reached, whence, for about 10

Ascent. <>/' Myoko-zan. Naoetsu.

265

cho, the path ascends the steep
course of a rivulet under the
cane-brake ; and soon after, at
a small shrine, the path from
the Kita Jigoku-dani joins it
from the r. A little above this
is the Eokudo-no-ike, whence
to the top is a steep but
nowhere dangerous climb of
20 cho, partly assisted by
chains. On the summit stands
a small wooden shrine dedicat-
ed to Amida, near which tepid
water oozes out drop by drop.
Myoko-zan forms part of an ex-
tinct volcano. The mountains
immediately surrounding it are
the long semi-circular ridge
called Myoko-zan-no-Urayama
on the S.E., and Kanayama on
the N. The view to the H.E.
includes Asama and Fuji.
Directly S. rises Kiu'ohime
with its two peaks, between
which is seen the top of IzTina-
san. Ken-no-mine bears about
S.S.W., while the round-topped
moTintain bearing W.N.W. is
Yakeyama, an extinct volcano.
To the N.E. the view extends
over the plain of Echigo to the
Sea of Japan and the Island of
Sado. — In descending, the path
to the 1. at the hut below
the Ilola;d5-no-ike and via
the Kita Jigoku-dani solfatara
may be taken. It is in parts,
however, very narrow, and
overhung with tall grass and
weeds. The mountain is much
frequented by pilgrims, espe-
cially on the 28rd night of the
6th moon, old style, when
they go Tip in great numbers
by torchlight, but do not pass
through AJjakura.]
There is a falling gradient of
about fiOO ft. in the 4|V m. traversed
between Taguchi and Sekiyamn.
The ascent of Myoko-zan may also
be made from here, but it involves
a longer walk over the moor than
from Akakura. The gradient is still
heavy until Aral is reached, where
the country becomes flatter.

Aral is a flourishing town noted
for tobacco, pueraria starch (kuzu),
and petroleum, the spiings being
in the immediate neighbourhood.
Here is first seen the custom pe-
culiar to most of the towns in
Echigo, of having covered ways
along the house-fronts, for use when
the snow lies deep in the streets.

Takata {Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a
large place, formerly the castle-
town of a Dainiyo named Sakaki-
bara, one of the four families who
enjoyed the privilege of providing
a regent during the minority of a
Shogun. The town is traversed by
a long slTeet, which bends repeated-
ly at right angles. Cotton-weaving
is extensively carried on. The Hok-
koku Kaido branches off 1. near
here to the provinces of Kaga, Echi-
zen, etc. (see Route 42).

Naoetsu (Inns, Ika-gon, Matsu-
ba-kwan), near the mouth of the
Seldgawa, is a port of call for
steamers to FushiM (10 hrs.), and
other places on the West coast.
Naoetsu produces a jelly called
awa-ame, made fi'om millet, and
appreciated by both Japanese and
Europeans. A great annual horse
—or, to be quite correct, mare — •
fair is held dui'ing the month of
July in the siiburb of Kasuga
Shinden. The animals are brought
from Shiiya and other locahties in
the province of Echigo.

Half a 7-t to the S. of Naoetsu
lies the viU. of Gochi (Inn, Shimizu-
ya), a favourite resort during the
hot weather, where several good
tea-houses have been built on chifs
overlooking the sea. Excellent
bathing may be had on the long
stretch of sandy beach immediate-
ly below, so that altogether those
compelled to remain over-night in
this neighbourhood will iind it a
pleasanter resting-place than stuf-
fy, uninteresting Naoetsu.

[Travellers desirous of folloMdng
the coast line southward to To-
yama, wUl find the itinerary at
the end of Route 42. Except
the first day of bold cliffs, it is

206 Route 26. — Karuizoiva-Naoetsu-Niigata Railway.

mostly dull travelling, partly
along the beach, and partly
through rice-fields. Mr. Per-
cival LoweU thus describes it : —
" Every few hundred feet, we
passed a farm-house screened
by cHpped hedgerows and
bosomed in trees; and at longer
intervals we rolled through
some village, the country piie
becoming for the time the vill-
age street. The land was an
archipelago of homestead in a
sea of rice."]

Lea^'ing Naoetsu, the line riuis
through pine-trees, follomng the
coast which at first is flat and
sandy. There is considerable tun-
nelling between Hassaki and
Kashiwa-zaM through the lower
spiu's of Yoneyama, which here
actually come down to the sea,
helping to form the only pictur-
esque portion of this section of the
route.

All this cuast district, as far as a town
called Tera-domari. is jiihabited by a
population of hardy fishermen : and the
sea yields bream (tai), plaice {/caret), and
a kind of brill (hirann), in large quantities
and of great size. The tish caught here
are considered much superior in flavour
to those taken off the coast of Etchu fur-
ther west. The women are sturdy and
capable of the hardest toil. They usually
perform the labour of porters, and even
drag carts. Muslin made of hemp, and
called Echigo rliijimi, is woven in the
villages, and generally dyed indigo colour
with a faint pattern in white. The
Japanese esteem it highly as material for
summer clothing.

At the large town of Kashiwa-
zaki {Inn, Tenkyo) the railway
leaves the coast, turning eastwards
to tap the commercial cities in the
valley of the Shinano-gawa. It
traverses the vdAe plain of Echigo,
whose rice yield loakes this prov-
ince extremely rich. The flatness
of the near ju-osiject is relieved by
fine views of distant mountain
ranges. The line crosses the
Shinano-gawa before reaching

Nagaoka [Inn, Masumi-tei), a
large and prosperous place with
streets laid out at right angles.

The river is a source of danger, as
it frequently overflo'ws its banks
duiing the autumn rains. The
water at Nagaoka is very bad, ow-
ing to the soil being permeated
with oil. Extensive petroleum re-
fineries occupy one of the siiburbs.
The wells are at Urase, Hire, and
Katsuho, which places lie close
together in the range of low hills
called Higashi-yama, some 3 ri to
the E. of the city.

Althoutrh the discovery of oil in the
province of Echigo dates from a very
early period, the development of the
industry itself is of quite recent origin, the
first serious attempts to work the fields
near Nagaoka dating only from 1889.
There are now over 200 wells at Urase,
aud some 70 at Katsubo. Their depth
ranges between 500 and 700 feet. Most of
the digging is done by hand ; and though
some machine pumps have been set up,
the miners prefer to bring the oil to the
surface by hand-pulleys. Iron conduits
leading from the works convey the cnide
oil into the refineries at Nagaoka. The
refined product enjoys a good reputation
in the trade.

In the same direction, but 3 n
further E., stands the small town of
Tochio, which produces the best
isumu()i in the proAince. Uesugi
Kenshin (see p. 85) was born here,
and various rehcs of him are pre-
served at the temple of Joanji.

Sanjo (Inn, Echizen-ya). A stay
at this place might be availed of for
two expeditions. The first is S.E.
up a tributary stream, the Igarashi-
gawa, to a spot some 6 ri distant,
where the torrent flows between
cliffs 70 ft. high. There are several
tea-houses at this cool summer
resort, which is called Yagi. Eour
or five ri further on, at Yosld-ga-
hira (1,350 ft. above sea-level), is a
lake with a hot spring in the mid-
dle. At Nyohoji, about 1 ri from
Sanjo in this direction, natural gas
issues from the ground, and is
utilised by the peasants for heat-
ing and lighting.

The other long expedition from
Sanjd is to Yahiko, where, on a high
lull on the coast (2,100 ft.), stands
a Shinto temple resorted to by

Niigata. Island of Sado.

267

worshippers from the whole prov-
ince. This eminence affords a
splendid panorama, bounded on
the E. and 8. by lofty mountain
ranges, with Ede-san due E. tower-
ing above its attendant peaks.

The country continues flat for
the whole of the rest of the way.

Niitsu is noted for its kerosene
wells.

WTuttari, the terminus of the
railway, is a suburb of Niigata, ly-
ing on the opposite or E. side of
the river.

Niig-ata (Hotel by Miola, called
Restaurant International ; Inns,
*Yoshi-kwan, Kushi-sei), capital of
the prefecture of the same name, is
situated on a naiTOW, sandy strip
of land between the Shinano-gawa
and the sea.

Niigata was opened to foreign trade
in 1869 : but the commercial expectations
entertaiiied with regard to it have uot been
fulfllled. and almost the only foreigners
now residing there are a few missionaries.
Owing to the bar at tlie mouth of the
river, vessels of foreign build cannot enter
the port, but are compelled to anctior in
the roadstead outside. A supplementary
port in the Island of Sado, called Ehisu
Minnto, is open to foreign vessels to talie
refuge in when the direction of the jire-
vailiug wind renders it dangerous to
anchor oCf >fiigata ; but trade is not per-
mitted there.

Not many centuries ago, the site of
Niigata was 8 or 10 m. out at sea. \
curious map, about 800 year.si old, shows
Sanjo as a sea-port town, and there exists
confirmatory evidence that the whole of
the rich alluvial plain here extending
between the mountains and the sea — 100
square miles or more — has become dry
land within historical times, partly by
the silting up of rivers, partly by up-
heaval of the land.

The tt)wn, which covers an area
of rather more than 1 sq. mile,
consists of five parallel streets
intersected by other streets and
canals. A line of low sand-hills
shuts out all view of the sea. The
cUmate of Niigata is very ti-yiug, —
hot in summer and terribly cold in
winter, snow falhng to a depth of 2
or 3 ft., and lying for a considerable
time. The houses are built with

their gable-ends towards the street,
and the roofs are prolonged beyond
the walls in order to prevent
the snow from blocking up the
Avindows. An enormous quantity
of coarse lacquer- ware is mamifae-
tured at Niigata ; and articles of
a pecuiliar pattern called mokusa-
nuri, or "sea- weed lacquer," are
brought for sale from the district of
.\izu where they are produced. In
the suburbs of the city, Echigo chi-
jimi is manufactured from hemp.
The small public garden svvr-
rounding the Shinto temple of
Kakii-san, affords a fine ijrospect of
the river and of the lofty range of
mountains some 10 ri distant to
the E.

Travellers intending to proceed
north from Niigata, are advised to
take steamer to Sakata, Tsuchizald
(Akita), Noshiro, or Hakodate ; or
else they may cut across country to
Wakamatsu, and join the Northern
Eailwav at Korivauja (see Routes
68, 69, and 65).

Island of Sado.

The Island of Sado, which lies 32
miles W. of Niigata and is includ-
ed in the same prefecture, can be
reached by small steamer from the
latter place in about 5 hrs. Steam-
ers run daily fi'om May to October ;
for the rest of the year the saihngs
are irregular, t)n a(;count of the fre-
quent storms that prevail on this
bleak coast. The island is hilly
and picturesque, consisting of two
groups of mountains, separated by
a cultivated plain. The principal
formation is Umestone. Sado has
a population of 115,000, and is
principally noted for its (jokJ and
silver viines situated close to the
town of Aikawa. which have been
worked from tlie earliest times.
During the middle ages, Sado was
used as a place of exile for crimi-
nals. Among those who were re-
legated to its inhospitable shores,
Mas the Buddhist saint, Nichiren.

Aikawa {Inn, Takada-ya) is a

268

Route 27. — TFa^s to and from Kofv^

poor-looking place, though it has a
population of 15,500, and though
the gold and sUyer mines are so
near at hand.

Ebisu Minato {Inn by Ito Sei-
emon), where passengers from Nii-
gata generally land, is a large but
"wretched "village, situated on a nar-
ro"w strip of beach bet"ween the sea
and a lagoon. The distance from
Ebisu ilinato to Aika"wa is 6 ri 29
cho (I62 m.), — a pretty "walk.

ROUTE 27.

"Ways to and feom Kof'u.

1. koftj and neighbo"dkhood. 2.
tokyo to kopu by the koshtj

KAXDO [SAKXTHASHI TO YOSHIDA'].

3. VALLEY OF THE TAMAGA"WA.

4. DOWN THE EAPIDS OF THE FXJJI-
KjVWA TO MINOBXJ AND THE TOKAI-

do. 5. kofu to shimo-no-stjwa.

6. from kofu oveb the misaka-
toge to yoshida and gotemba.

7. from komoeo to kofu by the
hiiiasa"wa-daimon-t6ge.

K5fu is a pleasant resting-place
after arduous travel, — its central
situation in the beautiful pro\-ince
of Kdshu, and its proximity to
places of such peculiar interest as
iiitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids
of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to
be included in so many different
tours as to render a description of
the several ways to and from it
advisable.

1. — KoFU AND Neighboubhood :

MrrAKE AND KlMPU-ZAN.

Kofu (Inns, Choyo-tei, with
Europ. restt., and *B6sen-kaku

in the public garden, Yonelcura in
Yanagi-machi ; Sadoko), capital
of the pro"vince of Koshu and of
the prefecture of Yamanashi. is
noted for the progressive spirit of
its people. For its size, it has more
buildings in European style than
any other provincial town in Japan.
Conspicuous amongst these are the
Prefecture, the Normal School, the
Banks, the Court-houses, the Town
Hall, the Industrial School, and
the silk iilatures.

The silk industry has advanced by
leaps and bounds during the last few
years, so that Kofu now boasts several
reeling and weaving establishments, em-
ploying each from 100 to 400 hands, most-
ly females, whose work-hours are from
5 A.^I. to S and sometimes 11 P.il., with-
out any interval for meals or any Sunday
rest ! This goes on all the year round,
with the exception of a couijle of mouths
in winter. It should be added, in justice
to the employers, that the workers appear
healthy and contented. Perhaps the
practice is not so bad as the theory.
Almost ail the silk of this district is ex-
ported.

The castle grounds were many
years ago turned into an experimen-
tal garden. The platform, where
the keep formerly stood, aifortls a
fine "view of the town and surround-
ing country. The grounds of the
public garden formerly belonged to
the Buddhist temple of Ichlrenji :
— notice the twelve stone lanterns
carved each with one of the signs
of the zodiac. Kofu is noted for
its haiki, a thia sUken fabric used
for the linings of dresses and for
bed-qrrilts ; also for a sweetmeat
called tsuki no shizuku, that is
" moon-drops," consisting of grapes
coated with sugar. The province
of Koshu produces excellent grapes,
which are in their prime about the
end of September or mid-October.
Crystals are found at Mitake in the
neighbourhood. A gi-eat festival,
called Mlyuki no Matsurl, is held in
Kofu on the 15th April, "with the
pious object of averting the Hoods
of the Fuefuki-gawa.

From Kofu a dehghtful day's ex-
cursion may be made to the temples

Milake d Kimpu-zan. Koshu Kaido.

269

of Mitake, distant about 4^ n.
Jinrildshas should be taken over
the first fiat bit as far as Chizyka
(1 ri), or with two men even to
Kissaioa (2 ri from Kofu). At
Kissawa a local guide should be
engaged, who will lead the pedes-
trian up along the Shindo, or New
Road, in the romantic gorge of the
Arakawa, a torrent forcing its way
between gaunt gi'anite walls, with
pines and other trees and flowering
shrubs perched on every ledge of
the lofty rocks. The valley widens
out at Ikari, a hamlet 10 cho below
Mitake, and thenceforward the
scenery becomes less wild. The
vill. of Mitake has several decent
inns. Specimens of rock crystal
are sold in the ■village, being
brought from mines in the neigh-
bourhood ot Kurobera on the way
to Kimpu-zan. As for the temples,
once so magnificent and still far-
famed, modern Shinto iconoclasm.
abetted by neglect and scarcity of
funds, has wrought sad havoc.
Their site, and the gi-ove of giant
trees that shades them, still remain
impressive ; otherwise there is little
to go so far to see. The yearly
festival at Mitake is held on the
10th to 15th of the 3rd moon, old
style, when azaleas and kerria-blos-
soms adorn the scene.

On returning, one should take
the Gedo, or Lower lload, which
offers beautiful contrasts of upland
and forest scenery with that of
rocks inferior only to those of
the Arakawa gorge. Shirane-san,
Koma-ga-take, Fuji, and numerous
other mountains are seen to great
advantage.

An alternative way to Mitake
leads by the vill. of Wada, lU cho
out of Koto, wlience walk.

Kimpu-zan. The climb up and
down this gi'anite mountain, 8,300
ft. high, can be acc-omplished in
one day from Mitake by maldng
an early start. The way hes
through the vill. of Kuvobfrit, whose
neighbonrhoo<i furnishes those

crystals for which the province of
K5shti is celebrated. Near a Shinto
shrine 2\ hrs. beyond Kurobera,
there is a good-sized hut for the
accommodation of pilgrims ; and
here the real ascent begins, the
distance hence to the summit being
about 2,000 ft. The way hes over
a heap of large boulders. At two
places, ladders are fixed to assist
the cUmber over difficult gaps, and
at two others chains give adchtiontil
security ; but even without the help
of these, there wotdd be no danger.
The top is crowned by a huge
inaccessible mass of gi'anite, rising
to a height of some 50 ft., and
forming a landmark by which the
mountain can be recognised at a
great distance. The view includes
Asama-yama on the N., Yatsu-ga-
take almost due W., Fuji to the
S., and the lofty mountain range
on the western boundary of the
pro'vince of Kdshu.

2. — Feom Tokyo to Kofc by the
KosHu Kaido. [Fbom Saeu-

HASHI to YosHIDA.]

The line of railway now in course
of construction along this ancient
and picturesque highway wiU, when
completed, afford the quickest
means of reaching Kofu. But
Koshu, the province from which
the roi'xl takes its name, is encircled
by such a barrier of mountains that
the engineers have no easy task,
and it may be two or three years
yet before the older metho<te of
travel can be abandoned. At pre-
sent the first stage of this journey,
viz. as far as llat-hioji, is by triiin
fi'om either Sliimbashi or Shinjiku
station, 1\ hi', from the latter (see
p. 144). The Itinerary of the rest
of the route is as under. The
road is often heavy in imrts, ex-
cept close to the larger villages ;
and continuid endeavours to im-
prove it l)y avoiding hills, etc., make
some of the distances vary slightly
from time to time.

270

Boute 27. — Ways to and fr<ym Kofu.

HACHIOJI to :— Fd Cho M.

Komagino 2 19 Q\

Yose 2 30

Yoshino 33

Ueno-hara 1 1^7

Tomiiiama 3 In

Sarnhashi 1 —

OzTiki 1 2

Kuronota 2 29

Eatsiinnma 3 15

KOFU 4 2

Total 24 2 58J

•2^

2.J.-

8i^
10

The whole ground may be cover-
ed in 2 days, by taking jinriMshas
from Hachioji to Kofu. and sleep-
ing the first night at Sarnhashi.
Carriages of the usual springless
kind run the whole way. From

Hachioji {Inn, Kado-ya), the
road Hes along the flat to Komagino,
"beyond which vill. a gradual rise
leads up the Kohotoke-ioge. The
modern highway, avoiding as it does
the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.),
misses the extensive view over the
plain of Toky5 and the sea, for
which this portion of the journey
was formerly noted ; but on the
way down on the other side, there
is a fine prospect of the Koshu
mountains. Soon the fertile valley
of the l>anyu-gawa, also called Ka-
tsura-gawa, comes in sight. This
river flows at the bottom of a deep
ravine, and remaijis a constant com-
panion as far as Ozuld. Some poor
hamlets are passed before reaching

Yosh.ino [Inn, Sakamoto-ya).

TJeno-liara (Inn, Uehara) Hes on
a plateau, and has no wells. All the
water has to be brought from a
distance in wooden pipes, and is
consequently foul. From Ueno-
hara, the road plunges down to the
bed of the Tsurukawa, a tributary
of the Katsura-gawa. The scenery
becomes very pretty before reaching

Saruh.ashi (Inns, Dailvoku-ya,
Kubota),

that ia, the "Monkey's Bridge,"' also
■called Enkyo, the latter name being but

the Chinese pronunciation of the Bame
ideographs which in pure Japanese read
Sarukashi. The place derives its name
from the bridge having formerly been
a mere crazy plank, such as monkeys
alone might be supposed likely to venture
across.

Perpendicular cliffs frown down
upon the dark emerald stream,
which is naiTow and deep at this
point. The present bridge is of
the cantilever sort, having the ends
of the horizontal beams planted
deep in the soil that covers the
rock. Saruhashi, though an in-
considerable place, claims a certain
importance as a market-town for
the surrounding villages, and also
manufactures kaiki. Another
cheaper fabric called tsumugi, spun
from refuse silk, is manufactured
in several of the neighbouring
towns.

The scenery continues lovely
after passing Saruhaslii. There is
a celebrated view at a point where
the Katsm-a-gawa is joined by one
of its affluents, the "Wata-gawa,
between Saruhashi and Koma-
hashi.

Ozuki is badly situated, as a hill
rising behind it shuts out the stin-
light and the view of Fuji.

[A road to Yoshida, fi'om which
place Fuji may be ascended (see
p. 172), branches off here to the
1., following up the valley of
the Katsiira-gawa, and passing
through the cleanly and thriv-
ing town of Yamura (Inn,
Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba
there is a pretty cascade, which
is seen to best advantage from
the verandah of the tea-house
close by. The distance fi-om
Ozuki to Kami-Yoshida
(Inns, Osakabe, Kogiku) is just
under 6 ri. The whole road is
in a manner dominated by
Fuji, beginning near Ozuki,
where the great volcano ap-
pears en vignette, and then
grows and grows till it fills up
the entire foreground. It is
also interesting to observe the

Tne Koshu Kaido. Tamagawa Valley.

271

gradual conversion of the lava
into arable land, partly by
weathering, partly by human
toil.]

From OzuM the road proceeds up
the valley of the HanasaM-gawa,
through villages devoted to the
breeding of silkworms. The diver-
sified forms of the mountains lend
an unusual charm to the scene.
After passing

Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), we
ascend the Sa.sago-toge, 3,500 ft.
above the sea. The longest railway
tunnel in Japan is being pierced
through this mountain.

Katsunuma (Lm, Ikeda-ya) is
the chief centre of the grape-grow-
ing industry. The fertile plain of
Koshu now stretches out before us,
surrounded on every side by a wall
of high mountains. The principal
summits to the W. are Koma-ga-
take, H6-o-zan, -Jizo-dake, Kwan-
non, and Yakushi, backed by a
long chain collectively known under
the name of Shirane-san. Fuji
also is visible now and then over
the tops of a range boiimhng the
plain on the S. From the vill. of
Todoroki to Shimo-Knrihara, the
road is lined with peach-trees, dou-
ble cherry-trees, and kaido (Fyrus
spectabilis), which are in full blos-
som about the middle of April.
The road runs along the plain from
this point into Kofu.

-Fkom Tokyo to Kofu by the
Valley of the Tamagaw.a..

This exceptionally pretty route is
much to be recommended in the
spring-time, when the trees are in
flower. Kofu can be reached by
it in 2J days. Fair accommodation
is to be had at K6chi-no-yu and at
Ofuji ; but the food is ever5rwhere
poor. Train across the plain of
Tokyo in about 3 hrs. to Ome,
and the rest of the journey on
foot, excepting a possible 2 or 3
ri of jinrilashrt at either end.

* n

Names

a aa

iRfl

Remarks

s*"!

Stations

TOKYO (Shin-

jiku Jet.)

im.

Okubo

Nakano

5.+

Ogikubo

Kichijoji

Sakai

iFor Kawagoe,

Kokubunji Jet..

\ a dull country
(town.

Tachikawa Jet..

( Change for
lome.

21J

Haijima

Fussa

24|

Hamura

25^

Ozaku

28i

OME

Itinerary by road.
(distances approximate)

OME to :— Ei M.

Sawai 2^- 6^

Kotaba 1^ 3f

Hikawa 2 5

K6chi-no-yu (Yuba). 3 7 J

Kamozawa 2 5

Tabayama 2J 6J

Ochiai ^ ^

Yanagizawa-toge 1 2J

Kamikane li 3|

Ofuji I 1\

Kusakabe 1 J 3|

Hirashina 1 2 J

SatogaM 2 5

KOFU 1 2J

Total 29 70f

The firet portion of this journey
over the Tokyo plain is briefly
described on p. 144. At Hamura,
the water of the Tamagawa is
diverted into an aqueduct which,
supplies the capital.

Ome {Inn, by Sakanoe Einzo ;
Resit., Wakasa-ya) consists of a
single long street lined with old
gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape
myrtle, and pines, which give it a
pleasing aspect. Komptra-san, the
small hill rising directly behind

272

Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.

the station, commands a fine view
of the plain \s-ith the Tamagawa
running through it. On leaTing
this town, the road at once enters
the Valley of ihe Tamagaica, ascend-
ing along its 1. bank. The valley
is here rather wide and weU-
cultivated. Passing through the
peach orchards of Mitamura, the
bridge at the entrance of

Sawai {Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is
crossed, beyond which place the
Yalley contracts and winds, and
the hills on either side increase in
height, while in front rises the
tiiple summit of Mitake (see p. 14:5).

Kotaba is the highest point
fi'om which rafts descend the river.
Further up, single logs are thrown
into the water and left to float
down with the current. The sce-
nery continues charming ; the path
constantly ascends and descends,
sometimes rising to a great eleva-
tion above the stream. Maize,
millet, and potatoes constitute the
chief crops gi-own in the district.
Passing through the remains of
a cryptomeria gi'ove, we cross the
Nippara-gawa, and reach the
village of

Hikawa {Inn, Hikawa-ya.)

At this place, and elsewhere in the
valley, may be observed bevelled water-
wheels, used where the bank is too high
for the ordinary undershot wheel. The
floats are small and placed wide apart,
and the axle is inclined at an angle in
order to admit of the wheel dipping into
the stream.

Thi-ee ri up the valley of the
Xippara-gawa are some remarkable
caves in the limestone rock. The
next stage beyond Hikawa is
extremely picturesque and but
sparsely populated. Below the
path, which winds up and down
the flank of the mountain, the
stream dashes along a rocky chan-
nel ; while above, on either hand,
rise steep lofty hills, mostly cover-
ed with timber, but wherever the
•exposure is favourable, ciiltivated
up to the highest possible limit.
. Kochi-no-yu {Irm, Shimizu-ya),

1,350 ft. above the sea, possesses
tepid sulphitr springs, which are re-
sorted to by the people of the neigh-
bouring hamlets. Half a mile fur-
ther we cross a tribiitary stream to
the vill. of Kochi, and pass in
succession through Miifjiynma and
Kawano to the hamlet of Kamozawa,
on the boundary between the prov-
inces of Musashi and Koshu.

Kamozawa (no inns) stands in
a striking situation on the hillside.
Fx'om a point a short distance
beyond, the road winds up the side
of a magnificent wooded gorge
for 4 or .5 m., the river flowing
away below, shut out by the shade
of deciduous trees. At last we
come in sight of the spacious
upland valley in which lie

Tabayama {Inn, Mori-ya), 2,000
ft. above the sea, and one or two
other hamlets. Beyond this, the
scenery becomes even more re-
markable. Striking views of deep
ravines and rockj'' precipices occiu:
a short way above Tabayama,
where grey, fir-clad cliffs tower up
to a height of over 2,000 ft. fi'om
the river-bed. But the grandest
prospect of all is about I5 m.
below Ochiai, where the road winds
round the face of a lofty precipice
commanding a view up a densely
wooded gorge. From this point to
Ochiai, which is a mere cluster
of huts, and for 1 ri further to the
top of the Yanagizaica-toge (4,600
ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs.
The top of the pass affords a fine
view of Fuji rising above an inter-
vening range of mountains. De-
scending on the Kof u side, the road
follows the course of the Omogawa
to the vill. of

Eamikaue (poor accommoda-
tion). Here, for the first time, the
great range dividing the provinces
of Koshii and Shinshu opens out
in fall view. The chief peaks
from r. to 1. are Koma-ga-take,
H6-6-zan, and Jizo-dake, with the
triple peaks of Shirane-san behind,
all rising beyond a nearer and
lesser chain. The small wooded

Rapids of the Fujikaica.

273

hill in front is Enzan, noted for a
cold sulphiu- spring (good imi).
From

Ofuji {Inn. Fuji-ya), the main
road descends straight into the
plain of K5fu, and jaasses through
Kusakabe, with its avenue of pines
and flowering trees. At SasliMe,
jinrikishas or carriages of sorts
may be engaged to Kofu.

4. — From Koftt down the Rapids
OF THE Fujikawa to Minobu

AND THE TOKAIDO.

This beautiful trip is recom-
mended alike for its scenery
throughout, and for the architec-
tural splendoxurs of Minobu.

A tram (4 ri 26 cho) takes one in
2 hrs. across the mountain-girt
plain from Kofu to

Kajika-zawa (Inns, Yorozu-ya;
Kona-ya, near the boat-house),
where one embarks for the descent
of the Eapids of the Fujikawa. The
charge (1900) is 5 yen for a private
boat (kai-kiri) with four men,
weather being favourable ; seat in
post or passenger boat {yuhin-hune
or jikan-bune) 50 sen or 1 yen for
reserved place. But remember that
prices constantly tend upwards.
With the river in its ordinary state,
the times taken are as follows : —

KAJIKA-ZAWA to :— Ilour.'i.

Haldi 2]

Nambu 11-

IWABUCHI 3i

Total 7^

In flood-time police regulations
prohibit all boats from starting till
the water falls to a certain level.
In such circumstances of unavoid-
able delay, the time may be spent
in visiting the temple of Myohdji
at Komuro, about 1 rl from Kajika-
zawa ; or Lake l^liihiri, 3 ri distant,
popularly believed to be tenanted
by a demon (nushi), who permits
neither boat nor human being to
disturb the water.

There is considerable traflic on
the Fujikawa, nearly 300 boats
being engaged in it ; and as we
course swiftly down, we meet boat
after boat towed up by coolies
bending double over their toilsome
task. Placid at first, the river flows
between green hills intersected by
valleys that disclose glimpses of
the Shirane range, Yatsu-ga-take,
and other distant mountains.
Opposite the confluence of the Ha-
yakawa there juts out 1. a remark-
able rock called Byohu-iwa ; and
here the river, whose course has
already been interrupted by several
rapids, becomes larger and the cur-
rent swifter. Fuji's snow-covered
cone first comes in view ahead
below Manzawa. where the stream
turns northward for a short time.
The biggest rapid occurs not far
fi'om where the river divides, and
where on the 1. bank stands the
celebrated Tsuri-bashi, or " Hanging
Bridge," joining an islet to the
mainland.

Formerly this bridge was suspended to
precipitous rocks on either side by means
of stout ropes of bamboos split and twisted
together, and consisted of small bundles of
split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. long, lashed
close together and supporting a single
row of planks laid along the middle as a
pathway. It had no hand-rail. It used
to be renewed every autumn. Since
1897, the bamboo roping has been replaced
by telegraph wire, and a low hand-rail
has been added. The bridge, a type of
many scattered over the wilder regions
of Central Japan, has a single span and
is altogether 1(3.5 ft. long, its height in the
centre being about '20 ft., and at the bank
:J5 ft. The whole structure shakes and
sways consideralily, though there is no
real danger.

Immediately after passing it,
Fuji again towers up graniUy to
the 1., and then the river Shiba-
kawa from Shira-ito-no-taki (see
p. 176) falls in idso 1.

On Hearing Matsuno, some
interesting hexagonal andesite
columns yvHl be noticed on the
r. banlv. The cuiTent remains
strong, and small rapids occur from
time to time, the whole way to the
riyer's mouth at

274

Route 27. — Ways to o/adfrom Kqfu,

Iwabuchi. Here the boat is
taken along the canal to the land-
ing-place close by the railway
station {Inn, *Tani-ya), which
stands f m. from the old town.

On the way down the river, those
with an extra day to spare should
not fail to visit !Minobu. _ This
entails lea^sing the boat at Quo or
Hakii, where it is rejoined next
day, the walk from the river to the
vill. of Minobu occupying f hr.

Minobu (l7wis,Tanaka-ya, Tama-
ya) consists of a single hilly street
lined with shops for the sale of
rosaries. It is prettily situated in
a valley surrounded by mountains
still fairly well-wooded, among the
most prominent being Okn-no-in
which rises immediately behind the
temples, and Shichimen-zan at the
head of the valley. The village
owes its existence to the great
Monastery of Euenji, founded in the
13th century by the celebrated
Buddhist saint, Nichiren (see p. 80),
a portion of whose body is here
enshrined. This monastery is the
headquarters of the Nichiren sect,
and the new temples now in process
of erection to replace the former
buildings destroyed by lire in 1875,
are choice specimens of Buddhistic
architectui'e.

On entering the grounds of the
monastery, the traveller crosses a
coru-tyard, whence either a very
steep flight of steps — the Otoko-
zaka — or a more gently inclined
slope — the Onna-zaka — may be
ascended to the actual temples. On
reaching the top of the steps, and
passing r. the belfry, 1. the double-
roofed little Nokotsxi-do — a recep-
tacle for behevers' bones — the tra-
veller vnil find himself in front of
the Founder's Temple (Kaisan-do),
from which a set of galleries leads to
the Temple of the True Bones {!<hin-
kotsa-(Jd), to the Shaka-<ld, which is
hung round with pictures, to the
Temple of the Posthumous Tablets
{Ihai-do), containing the tablets of
aristocratic believers, to the Pil-

grims' Resting-place (Kyaku-den), to
the Keception Rooms {Taimen-jo),
and finally 1. to the residence of
the archbishop (0 Tma) and r. to
the business offices of the sect
(Jimusho). The interior dimensions
of the main hall of the Founder's
Temple are : length 75 ft., depth
120 ft., height 26 ft. fi-om floor to
ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long
by 15 ft. in depth. The porch has
carvings of dragons, storks, birds
flitting over the waves of the sea,
and tortoises swimming through it.
The ventilating panels over the
grated doors contain angels and
phoenixes brightly painted. The
framework of the building and the
pillars which support the ceiling
are lacquered red and black, pro-
ducing a noble effect. In the centre
of the nave (gejin), hangs a magnifi-
cent gilt baldachin,_ presented by
the merchants of Osaka. Gilded
pillars mark off the space in front
of the main altar, which is lacquer-
ed red and decorated with gilt
carvings of lions and peonies. The
two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft.
high, in front of the altar, are fi'om
the famous potteries of Hizen. The
handsomely carved and gilded
shiine contains a good life-size
effigy of Nichiien, presented by the
inhabitants of Tdkyo. The coffered
ceiling of the chancel {7Uiijin) is
plainly gUt, while the part of it
immediately over the altar has gilt
dragons, touched up with red on a
gilt ground. To the wall behind
the altar are affixed modem paint-
ings of Rakan. The colours of the
square brackets in the cornices are
green, blue, red, and chocolate,
often with an outline in white or a
lighter shade of the principal
colotu", and gohl arabesques on the
flat surfaces. The gem of llinobu,
however, is the Temple of the True
Bones, comjileted in 1880, where
the lover of Oriental decorative art
will find in contemporary freshness
aU those beauties which, in most
of the religious edifices of Japan,
have already been too much tar-

Temple of Minobu.

'lib

nished by the hand of time. A
small fee is charged for admission.
The exterior is unpretentious ; but
on entering the oratory, the visitor
should observe the lifelike paint-
ings of cranes on the ceiling. A
plain gallery leads hence to the
sanctum sanctorum, where Nichi-
ren's remains are enshrined. It is
a small octagonal building, elabo-
rately decorated and all ablaze with
colours and gold. Round the walls,
on a gold ground, are full-sized re-
presentations of the white lotus-
flower, the emblem of purity and
of the Buddhist faith. The hori-
zontal beams above have coloured
diapers and geometrical patterns,
the brilliant effect of which is toned
down by the black, mixed with
gold, of the rafters. Black and
gold are likewise the colours
used in the ceiling, which is se-
ciired by admirably worked metal
fastenings. In the ramma are
carvings of the Sixteen Rakan, and
on the doors ai'e paintings of mu-
sical instruments. Bright indivi-
dually as are the many colours in
this temple, all are so cimningly
blended and harmonised that the
general eSect is one of exceeding
softness and richness. The shrine
{hoto), which was presented by the
faithful of the province of Owari, is
of gold lacquer and shaped like a
two-storied pagoda. In it rests the
crystal rehquary or casket contain-
ing the bones of Nichiren, which is
in the shape of a tiny octagonal
pagoda, standing on a base of
silver formed of an upturned lotus-
blossom, which itself rests on a
reversed lotus of jade. Its frame-
work is of the alloy called shakudo,
and one of the pillars bears an in-
scription in silver damascening,
which, among sundry particulars,
gives a date coiTesponding to A.D.
158(1. The other pillars are de-
corated with silver tracery attached
to the surface of the shakudo. The
top is hung with strings of coral,
pearls, and glass beads. The height
of the whole is a little over '2 ft.

Above hangs a baldjichin presented
by the inhabitants of Nagasaki.
The only European innovation in
the place is the introduction of two
glass windows, which permit of a
much better examination of the
building than is generally obtain-
able in the " dim religious light " of
Japanese sacred edifices. The room
in the archbishop's residence where
he receives the faithful, is a beauti-
ful specimen of Japanese house'
decoration in the old style. Note
the exquisite modern open-work
carvings of cranes and wild-geese,
and the fine paintings by Kano
Motonobu in the alcoves {tokonoma)
of the Reception Rooms. For a
small fee the priests officiating at
the Kaisandd will display the image
on the altar, and perform a short
service (kaicho) in its honour. The
chief annual festival takes place on
the 12th and 13th days of the 10th
moon, old style (some time in
November). There is another great
festival in the month of May.

The ascent to the Oku-no-in winds
up Ue-no-yama, the hill imme-
diately behind the Founder's Tem-
ple, and is an easy climb of 50 cho.
After passing the small temple of
Sanko-do, the road ascends through
a forest of cryptomerias, and near
the summit commands an extensive
view, including Fuji, part of the
Gulf of Suruga, and the peninsula
of Izu. On the top stands a plain
little temple dedicated to Nichiren,
whose crest of orange-blossom is
prominently markefl on various ob-
jects within the enclosure.

A spare day at Minobu may be de-
voted to the ascent of Shicliiinen-
zan, whose summit is not quite 5
)-i distant. The best place to halt
on the way is Akasawa (fair inn), 3
rl 2 cho from JMinobu. There is a
good path all the way up. The
last 50 cho are marked by stone
lanterns, numbered from 1 to 50.
No. 36 affords the best view, which
includes the full sweep of Suruga
Bay, ^vith the peninsula of Izu
stretching far out to sea, a magnili-

276

Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.

cent prospect of Fuji, the fertile
plain of Kofu intersected by the
various streams that unite to form
the Fujikawa, the valley of the Ha-
yakawa below to the 1., beyond
which are seen Shirane-san and the
Koma-ga-take of Koshu, while
Yatsu-ga-take, Kiiupu-zan, and
distant ranges bound the prospect
on the N. On the top, which the
forest deprives of all ^iew, stands
a plain building dedicated to the
goddess of the mountain.

According to the legend, as Nichiren
was one day preachiug in the open air at
Minobu, a beautiful woman suddenly
made her appearance, and greatly excited
the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichi-
ren bidding her assume her true form,
she explained that she dwelt among the
mountains to the west, and that seated
on one of the eight points of the compass,
she dispensed blessings to the other
seven. She then begged for water, which
was given to her in a vase, and at once
the beautiful woman was transformed
into a serisent twenty feet long, covered
with golden scales and armed with iron
teeth. A terrible blast swept down from
the mountains, and she disappeared in a
whirlwind towards the point of the com-
pass indicated. The words " seven points-
of-the-compass " (ahichi-men) also mean
" seven faces ; " and by an equivoque the
popular belief has arisen that a serpent
with seven heads had appeared to the
saint, whom he deified under the name
of Skichi-men Daimyojin. Buddhist writers
identify her with Srimahadeva, the god
of lucky omen, another name for the
Hindu god Siva.

Grame is plentiful on the hills
surrounding Minobu. Deer and
bears are occasionally seen. Shoot-
ing, however, is strictly prohibited,
as contrary to the tenets of the
Buddhist faith.

From Minobu, and even fi'om
Kajika-zawa, a road mostly by the
river bank practicable for jinriki-
shas may be availed of in case of
flood. It passes through Namhu
and Manzawa (fair accommodation
at both), and reaches the Tokaido
EaUway at Iwabuchi. The distance
from Minobu to Nambu is 3 ri,
thence on to the T5kaid5 10 ri,
making 13 ri in all.

Another way from Minobu to the
Tokaidd, also 13 ri and feasible for

jiniikishas, leads via Nambu, Shi-
shihara, and Ojinia, over the Hira-
yama-toge to Okitsu, two or three
stations further west.

5. — ^Fbom Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa

ON THE NaKASENDO.

Itinemry.

KOFU to:— Ri Cho M.

NirazaM 3 5 7i|

Tsubai-ai 2 — 5

Dai-ga-hara 2 9 5o

Kyoraishi 1 16 2,1

Tsutaki 1 6 2|

Kanazawa 3 8 7 J

Kami-no-Suwa 3 19 8i

SHIMO-NaSUWA 1 4 2|

Total 17 31 43^

This road is a continuation of
the Koshu Kaido, the first section
of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has
been described on pp. 270 — ^1. It is
practicable for jiniikishas the whole
way.

Leaving Kofu and crossing the
Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji-
kawa, we reach

Nirazaki {Inn, Ebisu-ya) and
Tsubarai. Fi'om a grove of trees
just beyond the latter there is a
grand \iew of Koma-ga-take, the
whole sweep to the sharp summit
of the precipitous rocky mass being
seen to rare advantage. The road
now ascends the valley of the
Kamanashi-gawa, the greater part
of it as far as Dai-ga-hara being
built up on the stony beds of various
streams. The scenery of the valley
is very pretty, and in many places
quite striking. The r. side is lined
with remarkable castellated cliffs
of brown conglomerate, riddled
with caves and streaked with oc-
casional waterfalls like silver
threads. This rocky formation is
called Shichi-ri-ga-iwa, fi"om the
fact of its extending for a distance
of 7 ri from Nirazaki to the fi'ontier
of the province. To the 1. rises the
high range of which Jiz5-dake and
Koma-ga-take are the principal

Koshu Kaido. Kqfu to Gotemha.

277

features, — the former recognisable
by a statue-like knob at the top,
supposed to represent the Buddhist
god Jizo, the latter somewhat
higher and more pointed, both of
them grand jagged masses of gran-
ite. Fiu'ther on Yatsu-ga-take ap-
pears to the r., while on looking
back, beautiful and varied views of
Fuji are to be seen. We next reach

Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Take-ya),
whence the ascent of the Koshu
Koma-ga-take can best be made
(see p. 283). Beyond Dai-ga-hara
the road enters a fine grove of red
pine-trees, which shuts out the
view of the river as far as Kybraishi.
This grove is celebrated for its
mushrooms (ki-no-ko). Deer also,
now in most parts of Japan well-
nigh exterminated, are still fairly
plentiful in this district. Half-way
through the wood we cross the
Nigori-gawa, whose dazzlingly white
bed is formed of granite dust wash-
ed down fi'om Koma-ga-take. The
other rivers hereabouts show the
same characteristic, but not quite so
strongly marked. A hamlet near
Dai-ga-hara boasts the oldest and
largest cherry-tree in all Japan. At
the boimdary of the provinces of
Koshu and Shinshu, the road cross-
es to the 1. bank of the Kamana-
shi-gawa, and passing through the
insignificant vill. of SMmo Tsutaki,
reaches _

Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya),
after which it becomes hilly.
Thence we descend to

Kanazawa (Inn, Maru-ya), and
down the valley of the Miya-gawa,
where the waters of Lake Suwa
soon come in sight. From several
points further on, fine views are
obtained of the mountains on the
borders of Hida, the most con-
spicuous summits being Iwasu-ga-
take and Yari-ga-take. The lofty
mountain in the distance to the 1.
of the lake is the Shinshu Koma-
ga-take.

Kami-no-Suwa (Inn, * Botan-
ya, with private hot spring) is a
busy town on the borders of

the lake. About 1^ ri distant
stands the Ichi no Miya, or chief
Shinto temple of the province of
Shinshu, which contains some
excellent wood-carvings. The an-
nual festival is held on the 15th
April. The road now skirts the
slopes on the N.E. shore of the lake,
and^ passing through the hamlets
of Owa and Takaki, reaches Shimo-
no-Suwa (see Koute 24).

6. — Feom Kofu over the Misak4.-

toge to y^oshida at the base

OP Fuji, and to Gotemba on

THE TOKAIDO RAILWAY.

Itinerary.

KOFU to :— Bi

Isawa 1

Wakamiya 2

TonoM (vill.) 2

Top TonoM Pass... 1

Kawaguchi 1

Funatsu 1

YOSHIDA 1

Yamanaka .. 2

Subashiri 2

GOTEjVIBA 2

Cho

—

'2f

5^-

Total 17 13 42^

Time required, 2 days, stopping
at Yoshida the first night. Yoko-
hama may easily be reached by
train from Gotemba on the evening
of the second day ; or else good
walkers might cross over the
Otome-toge to Miyanoshita. Basha
are practicable fi'om Kofu to
Wakamiya ; but the latter half
of this stage is rough, and as it
also mounts a good deal, the use of
hasha in going from Kofu is not
recommended lieyond Isawa. But
those coming towards Kofu had
better engage basha at Wakamiya.

The road follows the Koshu Kai-
do as far as

Isawa (Intt Tsuchi-ya), where
it turns off to the r., and soon
enters a narrow valley. From Kami
Kurogoma it rises rapidly to Tonoki,
3,200 ft. above the sea. It then
ascends for about 1 hr. through a

278

Route 27. — Ways to and from Kqfu.

forest to the hut on the summit of
the Misaka-tofje, which is 5,120 ft.
aboTe the sea. The view of Fuji
from this point, as it rises fi'om
Lake Kawaguchi, is justly celebrat-
ed. Below is the vill. of Kawa-
guchi ; on the opposite side of the
lake are Funatsu and Kodachi ;
further S. is Lake Yamanaka. The
■view looking back towards the N.
and W. includes Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-
ga-take, Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake,
and in the plain below, the vill. of
Isawa. It is 1 hr. descent down
the bare hillside to Kawaguchi, a
poor vill. lying a couple of hundred
yards from the lake. Boats can be
procured from here to Funatsu, the
passage of a little over -^ hr.
making an agreeable change in the
day's work ; or else one may follow
the road skirting the lake through
the hamlet of Akasawa for about
f hr., with steep mountains on every
side. Funatsu produces white and
coloured tsumugi, a coarse fabric
woven from spun floss-silk. From
Funatsu to Yoshida, and on to Su-
bashiii and Gotemba, the road tra-
verses the moor which forms the
base of Fuji (see E-te. 10.).

7. — Fkom Komoeo neak Kakuizawa

to kofu by the hlkasawa-

Daimon-tooe.

Uinerary.

KOMORO to :— Ri Gho M.

Iwamurata (about) 2 — 5

Usuda 2 16 6

Takano-machi 1 6 2f

Toyosato 2 7 5^

Umijiri 1 21 4

Umi-no-kuchi 1 10 3

Hirasawa a 7 7|

Tsugane 3 14 8^

Wakamiko 1 30 4J

NirazaM 2 21 6^

K^FU 3 13 8|

Total 25 1 61

This route is not recommended,
except to those whose object is

mountain cUmbing. Exclusive of
such climbing, the journey will oc-
cupy 2 days, basha being available
for the first part between Komoro
and Usuda, and again for the last
stage from NirazaM to Kofu. The
rest must be done on foot. The
accommodation at the villages on
the way is poor, and the scenery
mediocre, though the Ghikiima-
gawa whose upper course is follow-
ed for many miles, has some fine
chfEs. The actual pass is a very
easy climb. Its name of Hirasawa-
Daimon-toge serves to distinguish
it from another Daimon-toge fur-
ther west.

The hamlet of Hata, near Takano-
machi, is the best place from which
to ascend Tateshina-yama. This
expedition requires the whole of a
long day, but the climber is reward-
ed by an extensive view.

Fi'om Umijiri, at the end of the
Iwasaki gorge, one may visit the
sulphur springs of Inago (21 cho),
and thence go up to the Honzawa
baths (3 ri), situated at a height of
3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum-
mit of the Honzawa pass, some 40
min. walk beyond the Honzawa
baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea.
Fi'om this point a path leads to the
summit of Mikahuri-yama, 8,450 ft.
The whole expedition will occupy
a day.

Itabashi is the best starting-
point for the ascent of Akadake,
one of several peaks known under
the collective name of Yatsu-ga-
take ; but there is no path.
Two ri across the moor from Ita-
bashi is a wood-cutter's hut at the
base of the spur where the ascent
begins, and it is advisable to sleep
there in order to make an early
start. The hut stands about 5,300
ft. above the sea, which leaves
3,690 ft. to be done next day, the
summit having an altitude of 8,990
ft., and the chmb being very steep
in parts. Guides cannot always be
procured at Itabashi. In this case
it will be necessary to proceed to

Route 28. — Valley of the Hayakau:a.

279

Hirasawa, where they can generally
be had at any time.

From Nagasawa it is an easy
ehmb up Gongen-dake. Should there
be any (Ufficulty in procuring guides,
it ma}^ be best, as in the previous
case, to make Hirasawa the starling-
point. The ascent occupies about
5 hrs., the descent to Nagasawa 3
hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 hrs. The
■view includes the whole of the Hi-
da-Shinshu range, amongst which
Yari-ga-take is conspicuoiis to the
N. W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S.
by E., the Koshu Koma-ga-take
S.W. by S., Shirane a little to its
S., Ho-o-zan S.S.W., distinguished
by the monumental pile of rocks
at its summit, and Kimpu-zan S.E.
by E.

ROUTE 28.

The VAiiiiET OF the Hayakawa.

Itinerary.

MINOBU to :— Ri Cho M.

Akasawa 3 — 7|-

Gokamura 2^- — 6

Kyo-ga-shima ... 2 — 5

Hayakawa 1 — 22-

Shimo Yujima ... 3| — 8|-

Narada 2 — 5

Ashikura 5 — 12J^

Arino 2 ■ — ^5

Dodo 15 1

Midai 10 |

KJFU 2 — 5

Total 23 25 58

Tliese distances are approximate,
and it is possible that some of the
moimtain ri may be of 50 cho in-
stead of only 36 cho, which would
of course proportionately increase
the mileage. An alternative plan
for those starting from Shoji is to
go down the Fujikawa as far as

the hamlet of liomi, near the con-
fluence of that river -with the Haya-
kawa, and join the above itinerary
near Gokamura, 3^ ri from Itomi.

This route is a very rough one ;
for though so close to civilisation,
the country through which it
leads lies in the heart of the
great mountain mass dividing Ko-
shu from Shinshti and Suruga, and
both the people and the roads are
in much the same state as they
were in earlier centuries before rail-
ways were known or foreigners
heard of. The journey can only be
accomplished on foot, and one
should travel as lightly as possible,
for all baggage has to be carried
by coohes, who are often difficult
to obtain. The traveller will meet
with no regular inns, except one at
Homura ; but the officials and
headmen of the various hamlets
are very civil, and ready to provide
the best accommodation their places
afford. It is possible to combine
with this trip the ascent of the
KoshCi Shirane-san and other lofty
peaks, which form the subject of
the next route.

At Akasawa the path strikes r., in
order to enter the valley of the
Hayakawa, which it does near Oo-
kamura. A short way beyond this,
it descends to a pretty valley near
the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the
scenery is particularly striking. To
the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly
wooded and seen to miich better ad-
vantage here than from Minobu.
Directly opposite is the bold round
summit of Amebata-yama, also
called Zarti-ga-take, through the
deep ravine to the 1. of which flows
tlie Amebata-gawa. Below is seen
the Hayakawa winding down the
valley on the r., and forming an
almost complete circle as it bends
round a low wooded promontory,
which from this point has the ap-
pearance of an island. The path
now descends over a rough water-
course to the bed of the river, and
ascends the 1. bank to Kyo-ga-shi-
ma. Eight cho further on, it crosses

280

Route 28. — Valley of the Hayakawa.

the stream on a tsuri-bashi, or
"hanging bridge," to the hamlet of
Momura in whose neighbourhood a
gold mine is worked.

For a description of the tsuri-bashi of
the mountain districts of Eastern and
Central Japan, see p. 273. Another primi-
tivo kind of bridge, called mannen-bashi,
has sometime.s to be crossed on this route.
It consists of a long piece of timber,
which is simply tied at the end to project-
ing supports, such as are used in the
hanging bridge. The span is not so great
as that of the tsuri-bashi ; but the narrow-
ness of the roadway, and the imperfect
manner in which the projecting beams
are supported, give the traveller a most
uncomfortable feeling of insecurity. The
.Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying
" Bridge of a Myriad Years."

Beyond Homura, the path leads
over one of the lower spurs of Dai-
koku-yama, and follows the steep
side of the valley high above the
stream. After passing the hamlet
of Nishi-no-miya, the river is re-
crossed to

Hayakawa. Comfortable quar-
ters may be obtained one mile
further on at the house of the
Soncho (M-ajot) of Misato, the "three
villages" of which Hayakawa is one.
Gold is found in the neighbourhood,
while plantations of the paper-tree
and of tobacco line this part of the
valley. Higher up, beyond the
hamlet of Arakawa, the scenery is
charming. The river dashes iilong
throiigh a tine rooky glen, and is
spanned by one of the mannen-bashi
at a highly picturesque spot. After
crossing the bridge, the road
divides. The route to Narada
tiirns to the r., and ascends a very
steep hUl for aboiit 1 ri, winds
round its upper slope, and descends
again to the river through wUd and
rugged scenery, before reaching the
hamlet of Shimo Yujinia. Beyond
this place, the path crosses and re-
crosses the river on mannen-bashi.
About 40 cho on, and a Uttle way up
the ravine I to the r., lies the hot
spring of Kami Yujima (poor ac-
commodation).

Narada (accommodation at a
Buddhist temple), the last in-

habited place in the valley, consists
of but a few households. All the
inhabitants bear the same surname,
and seldom marry outside the
limits of their own village. They
are a primitive folk of a peculiar
type of countenance, who wear in
summer a loose hempen dress, and
deer and bear-skins in the winter.
Their dialect is pecuHar, abound-
ing in archaic words and obsolete
grammatical forms. Owing to their
practical isolation from the outer
world, their ignorance is extreme,
and they are content to hve in dirt
and squalor. Bice, sake, and soy
are with them luxuries to be in-
dulged in on rare occasions, their
ordinary food consisting only of
millet and potatoes. Narada boasts
" Seven Wonders " (Nayui Piishigi),
amongst which are enumerated a
brackish pool, the waters of which
are said to have the property of
dyeing black any article of clothing
left to steep in them for forty-eight
hours, and a reed whose leaves grow
only on one side of the stem.

More interesting to the deter-
mined pedestrian than these village
wonders will be the ascent of Shira-
ne-san, which may be t:iken on the
way to Ashikura, insteatl of pro-
ceeding to the latter place by the
usual path according to the itin-
erary. For this ascent, see next
page.

The ordinary path from Narsxda
to Ashikura winds up and down a
succession of forest slopes, whose
thick foUage almost entirely shuts
out all view. Now and then, how-
ever, glimpses are caught of Shi-
rane-san and of the valleys of the
Arakawa and Norokawa. Further
on the path ^li^ddes, — r. to Kofu via
Hira-bayashi, 1. to Kofu via Ashi-
kura. The latter alternative is not
practicable during heavy rains ; but
the traveller is recommended to
take it when it can be traversed, on
account of its wild scenery. A
portion of the way hes down a
precipitous rocky ravine known as
the Ide-zaioa, where the gorge is

Boute 29. — Mountains between the Fujikaiva & Tenryu. 281

in many places so narrow that its
perpendicular sides seem almost to
meet overhead. The path descends
by the side of a torrent, crossing
and re-crossing it on trunks of
trees, and being occasionally carried
over clefts and landslips on bridges
of very primitive construction.

Ashikura, which stands on the
1. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists
of four hamlets named Kutsiizawa
(the highest up the valley), Ozori,
Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower
down. Those who contemijlate
making the ascent of H5-6-zan or
of Kaigane should stay at Kozori.
There is also fair accommodation
at Furit-ynshiki. Jinrikishas may
sometimes be found on entering the
Kofn plain.

ROUTE 29.
The MotTNTAiNs between the Fu.ti-

KAWA AND THE TeNRTU-GAWA.

1. SHTRANE-SAN (NODOEI, AI-NO-TAKE,
kaigane). 2. HO-O-ZAN. 3. THE
KOMA-GA-TAKE of KOSHtT. 4. AKA-
ISHI-SAN.

The great mountain mass to the
W. of Kofu, lying between the
valleys of the Fujikawa, Oigawa,
and Tenryu-gawa, is only second in
orogi'aphical imiJortance to the
Etchu-Hida mountains described
in Koute 31. Climbing in this
range involves no little hardship, for
the reasons stated in the introduc-
tion to the previous route, Avith
which the greater part of this one
may conveniently be combined.
None but experienced mountaineers
should attempt it.

1 . — Sherane-san.

In order to avoid confusion when
arranging with peasant-guides and

hunters, let it be understood that
Shirane-san is not one individual
peak, but a general name for the
northern and more elevated portion
of the range of which Nodori-san,
Ai-no-take, and Kaigane are the
chief peaks.

There exists a somewhat amusing
i rivalry between the inhabitants of Narada
from whicli the first two peaks are as-
cendocl, and those of .\shikura, the nearest
point to the third, one village maintain-
ing that Ai-no-take is the highest of the
three and the tine Shirane, while the
other claims that honour for Kaigane. An
unprejudiced observer, looking at the
range from the summit of H6-o-zan or
from any other mountain top that com-
mands a view of the two peaks, will
adjudge the Ashikura people to be in the
right about the question of altitude.

Narada (see p. 280) is the start-
ing point for the ascent, — not that
there is any regularly markefl path
thence to the top of the range, but
that guides are there procurable
who know the way up, and will
carry whatever is necessary in the
way of provisions and bedding.
Those who pui-pose to ascend all of
Shirane's peaks must be prepared
to sleep out three nights, and, tak-
ing Nodori-san first, to cross on the
fourth day from the base of Kaigane
to the vill. of Ashikm-a. Nodori
and Ai-no-take involve sleeping out
two nights and descending on the
third da),^ — likewise to Ashikura.
There is a hut at the E. base of
Kaigane, but none on the top of
the range. Ai-no-take cannot be
ascended direct from Narada ;
Nodori must first be climbed, and
the track followed thence along the
lidge.

Prom Narada there is a choice of
ways up Shirane, one leading along
a ravine called Hiro-Kochi, the
other up the Shira-Kochi a short
way below it. To the top of
the ridge is a stiff climb of !) hrs..
frequent rests being needetl by the
guides who carry the baggage. The
height is 8,4(10 ft. above the sea, or
5,900 ft. above Narada, and snow
often lies there as late as July.
Once on the ridge, the rest of the

282 Route 29. — Mountains betvDeen the Fvjikawa & Tenryu.

ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first
peak, nameless on the maps, is
reached. The \ie-w includes W.S.W.,
the round top of Ena-san in
Mino ; N.W. by W., Ontake ; and in
front of the highest peak of a long
ridge, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu.
Norikura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-
take N.W. by N. In the far dis-
tance N.E., the top of the Nikk5
Shirane can just be descried, and
the Chichibu mountains are well
seen in the same direction. H6-6-
zan is nearly N.N.E. ; then come
Jiz5-ga-take, and Kwannon and
Yakushi close together. Fuji, the
basin of the Fujikawa, and the
Kofu plain are distinctly visible.

Half an hour more brings us to
the top of Nodori, 9,970 ft., which
commands much the same view as
the previous summit, with the ad-
dition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane,
the latter of which now comes in
sight for the first time.

From the summit of Nddori to
that of Ai-no-take (10,260 ft.)
takes 2 hrs. The top consists of
bare rock ; but a little below, every
sheltered nook has a patch of grass,
gay with the flowers that inhabit
higher altitudes. Ten min. below
the summit on the E. side, is an
excellent camping-place. The view
from the highest point includes,
besides the mountains already
mentioned, the following : — Koma-
ga-take a little to the E. of N.,
Kaigane N.N.E., Y'atsu-ga-take just
on the E. of Kaigane ; Kimpu-zan
N.E. by E., and Senj5-ga-take, a
much lower mountain on the 1. of
the Norokawa, N.W. The source
of this stream is perceived far down
on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take.
Towards the S. and beyond Nodori-
san, a long range of mountains is
seen stretching down the frontier of
Koshu, and getting gradiially lower
as it approaches Minobu. Fuji
rises between S.E. and E.S.E.,
while H6-5-zan and Jiz5-ga-take on
the one side, and Ontake, Norilcura,
and Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly
clear on the other. The descent

from Ai-no-take to Ashikura is
fatiguing as far as a stream some
4,200 ft. above sea-level. This
stream is the Arakawa, one of the
sources of the Hayakawa. If the
day is too far spent to allow of
AshilcTU-a being reached before
nightfall, one may sleep at some
wood-cutters' huts, IJ hr. before
getting to that village.

Kaigane (10,330 ft.) can best be
ascended from Kozori, one of the
hamlets of Ashikura. It is a day's
cUmb to a smaU temple where a
halt may be made for the night,
whilst the remainder is said to
take 6 hrs. The usual plan is to
descend to the temple and spend
the second night there, returning to
Ashikura next day. Biat should the
traveller wish to complete the round
by ascending Ai-no-take and N5-
dori-san, it will be necessary to
sleep out one if not two nights
more before descending either to
Narada or to this temple.

2. — H6-0-ZAN.

The ascent of this mountain
(9,550 ft.), which, like that of Kai-
gane, is best made fi'om Ashikura,
will occupy a good pedestrian about
9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs. in-
cluding stoppages. Though it is
possible, by making an early start,
to complete the ascent and descent
in one day, it is not lasual for pil-
grims to do so. They generally,
on the downward journey, halt for
thenight at the M'ood-ciatters' hut
of Omuro, 1^- i-i below the summit.
The accommodation being rough,
provisions and bedding should be
taken. Those who wish to enjoy
the morning yiew from the summit
must either make a late start
from Kozori and spend the rught
at Omiu'o, ascending next morning
at daybreak ; or start early, and
bivouac in the hollow between the
summits of Jizo and Ho-6-zan. In
the latter case it will be necessary to
take utensils for canying water, as
no water can be got beyond Omuro

Ho-o-zan. Koma-ga-take of Kdahv.

283

The ascent commences beyond the
hamlet of Kutsvzaica, 12 cho from
Kozori. The view from Suna-harai,
a rocky peak over which the path
leads, includes in front Senj6-ga-
take, over whose r. flank is seen
the outline of the Bhinshti Koma-
ga-take. On the 1. the ridge slopes
down to the valley of the Norokawa,
on the opposite side of which rises
the sharp summit of Kaigane ; lower
down the valley, stands out the bold
massy form of Ai-no-take, while in
the further distance appear the
lofty mountains on the northern
boundary of Suruga. To the r., the
summits of Yakushi-dake and
Kwannon-dake shut out the more
distant prospect. The view on
looking back includes Fuji, the
Kofu plain, and suiTounding moun-
tains. Yakushi-dake is not usually
ascended by pilgrims. From Kwan-
non-dake, which they do generally
visit, there is a fine view of the
ravine through which the Norokawa
flows. The highest point — Ho-5-
zan properly so called — is still fur-
ther on, and may be scaled as far as
the ledge which supports the two
enormous blocks or pillars of
gi'anite that form the actual summit.
The view closely resembles that
from Koma-ga-take described below.
Ho-o-zan may also be ascended
from Yanagi-za wa or Shintomi, near
Dai-ga-hara on the Kdshu Kaido
(see p. 277). The distance to the
top of the gap between Jiz5-dake
(a lower spur of the Kwannon-dake
above mentioned) and Ho-o-zan, is
called 5 ri. The path crosses the
spur to the 1. of the vill., and
descends to the bed of the Komu-
kawa, which is followed up until
the actual ascent of 2|- ri com-
mences.

-The Koma-ga-take of

K63HIT.

Dai-ga-hara on the Koshu Kaido
is the best starting-point for this
grand movintain, 9,840 ft. above
sea-level. The climb is so precipi-

tous and difficult in parts as to
have given rise among the pilgrims
to the use of such terius as Oifa
shirazu Ko shirazu (see p. 174), Ichi
no Nanjo, or the " First Difficulty,"
Tchi no Kozoki, or the "' First Peep"
(over a precipice), etc. The ascent
is also so long — nominally 7 ri to
the summit — as to necessitate
sleeping one night at the Omuro or
Umadome huts on the mountain
side. Water should be taken up,
as none can be procured except at
these hilts. On the other hand,
much of the way is in the shade,
being through a wood. TTie siim-
mit consists of two peaks, on one
of which stands a bronze figure of
the Shinto god Onamuji. On the
second and higher peak, called Oku-
no-in, is a small image of the Bud-
dhist deity Marishi-ten. The sum-
mit commands a magnificent view
on every side. Looking S., the eye
sweeps over the valleys of the Noro-
kawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the 1. of
which rises the long range of
Shirane, the most conspicuous
summits being the snow-streaked
peak of Kaigane-san which stands
in close proximity, and beyond,
the bold mass of Ai-no-take, the
central portion of the range. Below
is the ravine through which the
Norokawa flows, as it winds round
the base of Kaigane ; the mountain
to the r. is Senj6-ga-take. Beyond
Shirane several high mountains
are visible, being probably those
that stand on the N. boundary of
Siiruga. Towards the E. the valley
of the Fujiliawa is seen between
the near summit of H6-6-zan and
the E. slope of Kaigane, and in the
far distance can be distinguished
the peninsula of Izu and the sea.
The most strildng feature of the
view is Fuji, to whose 1. a wide
plain stretches far away to the E.
Towards the N. and W. the fol-
lowing mountains appear in succes-
sion : — a portion of the Chichibu
range, Kimpu-zan, Y'^atsu-ga-take,
Asama-yama, the lofty mountains
on the borders of Etchu and Hida,

284 Boute 29. — Mountains between the Fujikawa (h Tenryu.

Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of Shin-
shvi, and Ena-san, wliile the nearer
view includes the phxin of K5fu, the
valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, Ta-
teshina-yama, the mountains about
the Wada Pass, Lake Suwa, and the
valley of the Teni-yu-gawa.

Rhododendrons grow in great
quantities on Koma-ga-take. Diar-
ing the latter part of July, when
the trees, which attain to a con-
siderable size, are in iwW bloom,
they impart a charming hue to the
scene.

4. AKAI.SH1-SAK.

This, though one of the highest
peaks of the range separating the
valleys of the Tenryu and the Oi-
gawa, is little loiown, because not
visible from any of the ordinary
lines of travel. It is best approach-
ed from Takato {Inn, Eiegami-ya),
an important town situated in the
valley of the Mibukawa, an affluent
of the Tenryu. Those coming fi-om
the E. may most expeditiously
reach Takato via Kofu and Kami
Tsutaki on the Koshu Kaido,
whence it is a walk of about 7 ri,
the path turning off 1. at the vill.
of ^ezawa, 1 ri beyond Kami Tsu-
taki, and crossing the Nyukasawa-
toge and Shibiri-toge. Hill scenery
alternates ^sith park-like stretches
that recall England. Those from
the W. reach it from Lm (Sakashita)
(see p. 285), 2 ri. Travellers coming
from the direction of Shimo-no-
Suwa may also reach Takato fi-om
Kanazawa on the Koshu Kaido, from
which village it is a pleasant walk
of some 3 ri to Midoiinitd (Inn,
Echigo-ya), and then 3.} ri more to
Takato. From Takato the road
leads due S. up the valley of the
Mibukawa, affording good views of
the W. side of the Koshu Koma-ga-
take, and over the Ichinose-toge
(4,450 ft.) to Onna-taka

This hamlet is said to derive its name
from the fact that the women are here
the heads of the households. It is also
stated that if a man fmm any other place

marries a woman belonging to this ham-
let, he is sure soon to droop and die.

and Ichiba, which latter is recom-
mended as a halting-place. Places
further on, where one may stay, are
Okaicara {Inn by Imai Takijiro),
Kamazawa, and the warm stUphur
baths of Koshibu.

The aetuiil ascent takes 11 hrs.
from Koshibu, being an arduous
scramble, during the first part of
which the Koshibu-gawa has to be
crossed and re-crossed more than a
score of times. This is followed by
a hard climb of 2 hrs. or so up the
steep tree-clad slopes of a spur
of Akaishi-san, the ascent then lead-
ing over bare loose rocks of a red-
dish colour for 2 hrs. more to a
point where it is necessary to turn
and go straight up to the final
arete. This is a moderate climb of
1 hr., and another hour is needed
to walk up to the highest point of
the peak (10,150ft.), Avhich affords
a tine view of most of the high
moiintains of Central Japan. A
night has to be spent in what the
hunter-guides call a gi'and cave, but
is a bare shelter between two rocks.
Water is not always easily found on
the mountain side. About 1 m.
from the summit is a hollow, where
the climber who wishes to see the
sunrise might sleep.

Instead of returning to Takato, it
might be possible to cross over into
the valley of the Oigawa, and either
descend to the Tokaido, or strike
the head-waters of the Hayakawa
across another range (see p. 279) ;
but the country is rough in the
extreme.

Route 30. — Rapids of the Tenryu-gauoa.

285

ROUTE 30.

The Rapids op the Tenryxt-gawa.

These r.apids, the finest in Japan,
form a natural route connecting
the Nakasendo and the Tokaido, —
the two chief highways of the
central portion of the Main Island.
The village where one embarks is
called Tokimata (Jnn, Umeno-ya).
It is reached from the E. by travel-
ling along the Nakasendd as far
as the town of Shimo-no-Suwa,
thence to Matsushima on another
important highway called the Ina
Kai/lo, and along that highway
to lida (Inns, Shogodd, Ryushi-
kwan), a large and flourishing
town, formerly the residence of a
Daimyo. The portion of the Ina
Kaido inchided in this route is by
no means lacking in the pictur-
esque. It also brings the traveller
into the vicinity of the Shinshu
Koma-ga-tako, which may be
ascended from Akao or from Saka-
shita. — Those coming from the W.
along the Nakasendo may leave
that highway either at Azumn-
bashi, whence 5 ri over the Odaira-
toije to (Jdaira, and 3 ri 26 cho more
to lida, all on foot or in jinrikishas
with 3 men ; or else at ^Shiojiri,
whence a jinrrkisha road leads to
Matsushimn as above, — 5 ri 24 cho
(13f m.).

Jtinerary.

SHIMO-NO-SUWA to :—

Bi Cho M.

Matsushima G 5 15

Sakashita (Ina) 2 IS 6

Akao 3 6 Tij

Hjima 1 31 U

HDA .5 27 U

TOKIMATA 2—5

Total 21 15 52i

The best accommodation on the
way to Tokimata is at Sakashita,
also called Ina (Inn, Tomi-ya), and at
Akao (hill, *Ton(>-oka). The whole

way from Shimo-no-Suwa to Toki-
mata is practicable for jinrikishas,
and can be accomplished in two
days ; but the occasional roughness
of the latter part of the road
necessitates the taking of two
jiniikisha-men. The passage by
boat from Tokimata down to the
Tokaido generally occupies 12 hrs.
Circumstances may render a break
necessary. In this case, either
Nishinoto or VidawMta lower down,
will do for a night's halting-place.
The total distance travelled by water
is estimated at 36 ri, say 90 m.; —
but the latter portion of this is
along a comparatively sluggish cur-
rent. The boat does not take the
traveller actually to the Tokaido
Railway. Whether bound up or
down the line, he alights at Nakn-
no-machi, for the station of Hama-
matsu, 1 ri 28 cho distant. Some
may prefer to alight at Kashima
higher up (about 5 ri from Hama-
matsu by jinrikisha or basha), or
else at Ikeda for the station of
Naka-izumi, or to go on to the
station of Tenryii-ijawa ; but both
these being small, the express does
not stop at them.

The official charge for a boat
(1900) is 35 yen when the river is in
a normal state, the justification of
this high price being based on the
fact that from 10 to 12 days are re-
quired to tow the boat up stream
again. In flood-time there is no
limit to what may be asked. Boats
not being always in readiness, it may
be advisable to write beforehand (in
Japanese, of course) to the inn-
keeper at Tokimata, to order one
mth 4 boatmen. Travellers are
also recommended to time their
movements so as to arrive at
Tokimata on the afternoon previous
to their descent of the rapids, which
will enable them to make all ar-
rangements overnight and to start
early. It might also be jiossible to
make .irrangements through the
inn at lida. A necessary stipula-
tion is that the boat shall take one
(he whole iray, otherwise the men

286

Roiif", 30. — Rapi'is of the Tenryu-gatva.

are apt to shirk the last part of the
voyage, where the sluggish stream
makes the work arduons, and en-
deavour to make the passengers
land en route, where jinrikishas may
or may not be obtainable. There
also now is a daily omnibus boat
from Tokimata at 7 A.M., 2h yen per
head ; but most of the passengers
alight at Kashima. One should be
prepared for disappointment in the
event of continued wet weather,
when the river rises considerably.
Nothing will induce the boatmen to
undertake the journey if the water
is above a certain height. Under
such circumstance^^, one of the alter-
native routes given below may be
availed of. A spare hour at Toki-
mata can be pleasantly spent in
visiting the picturesque bridge less
than 1 ri down the river, at the
spot where the rough-and-tumble
part of its course begins.

The scenery of the Tenryu-gawa
is most striking. After passsing
the bridge mentioned above, the
river enters a rocky ravins ; and
from this point on to Nishinoto — a
passage of some 6i hrs. — is almost
one continued series of rapids
and races. Walled in between
mountains that rise abruptly
to the height of from 1,000 ft. to
2,000 ft., the river twists and tears
along their rocky base, carving for
itself a channel where there seems
no possible outlet. It is in such
places that the skill of the boatmen
will be most admired, where the
boat, which looks as if it must be
dashed to pieces in another
moment, is shot round the corner,
only to be whirled on to some new
danger equally exciting.

Mr. Percival Lowell thus describes the
scene below Mitsushima, one of the
hamleta on the bank: — "The river, its
brief glimpse at civilization over, relapsed
again into utter navagery. Rocks and
trees, as wild apparently as their first
foreiunners there, wallod us in on the
sides, and appeared to do so at the end.s,
making exit seem an impossibility, and
entrance to have been a dream. The
stream gave short reaches, di8clo?ing
every few minutes, as it took us round a

fresh turn, a new variation on the old
theme. Then, as we glirlel straight our
few hundred feet, the wall behind us rose
higher and liighe:-, stretching out at us as
if to prevent our po.ssible escape. "We
had thought it only a high cliff, and
behold it was the whole mountain side
that had stood barrier there."

On approaching a rapid, the man
forward strikes the bow of the boat
■with his paddle, both as a signal
to the others and in the supersti-
tious belief tliat it will bring good
luck. Of rapids properly so-called,
there are upwards of thirty, the
finest of which are : Yagura (the
TuiTet), near Oshima ; Shin-taJci
(New Cascade), 3 ri below Mitsu-
shima ; Takaze (High Eapid); Chona
(Adze), just beyond Otani; Kon-
nyaku (Potato) ; Shiranami (White
Waves); lori ga taki (lori's Cascade);
and Yama-huro (Mountain Bath),
the grandest of all, despite its
homely name.

In the event of flood or any other
unforeseen circumstance prevent-
ing the boat joui'ney down the
Tenryii-gawa, the traveller may
avail himself of the way over the
Odaira-t5ge mentioned above to
rejoin the Nakasendo ; or else he
may strike the Tokaido Eailway by
taking a road called the Chu Uma-
kaido, which connects lida vriih.
Nagoya, 30 ri. The point where
this road would be joined is 2 J ri
from Tokimata, and 2 ri from lida.
The chief places passed on the way
are Nebane, Akechi, Tsuruzato, and
Seto.

Nebane (Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya) is
an emporium of trade between the
provinces of Shinshu and Mikawa,
the latter sending fish and raw
cotton, for \\'hich Shinshu returns
tobacco, hemp, and dried persim-
mons. It is possible to reach Toyo-
hashi on the Tokaidd Railway from
Nebane by a road, some IG ri in
length, wliich leads via the temple
of Horaiji.

Akechi (Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya),
next in importance, is a small but
thriving town, which produces

Route 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu.

287

porcelain, — chiefly tea-cups and
rioe-bowls of no artistic value.
For 8eto, a more famous ceramic
centre, see p. 244.

ROUTE 3L.

The Mountains of Hida and
Etchii.

1. intkoductory bemaeks. 2. gifd
to takayama in hida. 3. matsu-
moto to takayama by the abo

AND HIEAYU PASSES. NOEEKtlKA

and kasa-dake. yakeyama-toge.
4. yaei-ga-takk and hodaka-
yama. 5. nagano to toyama over
the haeinoki pass. 6. itoi-gawa
to omachi and matsumoto.
6-eenge-yama and jonen-dake.
7. tateyama. 8. toyama to
takayama by the valley of the
takahaea-gawa. u. toyama oe
kanazawa to takayama by the
valley op the shieakawa. 10.
haku-san. 11. takayama to
fukoshima on the nakasendo.
12. ontake and the koma-ga-
take of shinshtt. 13. ena-san.

1. — Inteoduotoey Remarks.

The provinces of Hida and Etchu
may be conveniently taken
together, because hemmed in be-
tween the same high mountain ran-
ges which render this region ex-
ceptionally difficult of access, and
have prevented it from being much
visited even by the natives of the
surrounding provinces. No part of
Japan has changed so little of late
years.

The range bounding these prov-
inces on ttie E. is the most con-
siderable in the empire, the only
one that can compare Avith it being
that between the Fujikawa and
Tenryti - gawu (see Route 29).
Many of the peaks are streaked

vrith snow until the early autumn,
while in some of the recesses and
gorges, where it is partially screen-
ed from the sun's rays, the snow
never entirely disappears. Extend-
ing almost due N. and S. for a
length of 60 or 70 miles, with a
breadth of from 5 to 10 miles, this
range forms a well-nigh impene-
trable barrier to communication
from the S. and E. It consists chiefly
of granite, overlaid in places with
igneous rocks ; but Norikura and
Tateyama are of volcanic oiigin.
The highest and most conspicuous
of the ntimerous peaks, beginning
at the N., are as follows :

_ FT.

0-Renge-yama 10,100

Tateyama 9,300

Jonen-dake 10,400

Kasa-dake 10,000

Yari-ga-take 10,300

Hodaka-yama 10,100

Norikura 10,550

Ontake 10,600

Kouia-ga-take (Shinshii). 8,500
Haku-san 8,950

Tlie lower flanks of the chain are
clothed with forests, in which the
most common trees are beeches and
oaks, conifers being also plentiful.
Among the wild animals of this
region may be mentioned bears,
deer, a kind of chamois, and two
kinds of boar. The streams abound
with troiit. The scanty population
consists of hardy, simple folk,
supporting themselves by hunt-
ing, wood-cutting, and charcoiil
burning. In some parts the women
wear a kind of baggy trowsers
resembling bloomers, tied at the
ankles. The staple food is buck-
wheat and millet, while barley,
hemp, beans, and mulberry-leaves
form the other chief productions of
the valleys.

It will thus be seen that the
mountaineer has but hard fare to
expect, and will be wise to provide
himself with as many tins of meat,
preserved milk, etc., as can be pack-
ed into a small compass. The re-

288

Routp, 81. — Mountains of Hida and Elchii.

commendation is advisedly framed
in these terms ; for much luggage
cannot be caixied, ow^ng to the
general scarcity of men to carry it.
Needless to add that the accom-
modation is often of the roughest.
Only at Toyama the capital of
Etchii, at Taka.Aama the capital of
Hida, at Matsumoto, and at a few
other of the larger towns, is the
ordinary standard of Japanese pro-
vincial comfort attained. Should
the varying efficiency of the carry-
ing companies which undertake to
forward goods from one portion of
Japan to another permit, compara-
tive comfort and plenty may be
ensured by sending boxes of food,
extra clothing, books, and whatever
else may be required, ahead to the
chief towns through which one ex-
pects to pass. It is, however,
always advisable to leave an ample
margin of time, as the Japanese are
not to be rehed on for punctuality
or despatch.

For practical convenience' sake,
four mountains have been included
in this route that do not topogi'aph-
ically belong to it — Haku-san, On-
take, the Koma-ga-take of Shin-
shu, and Ena-san, because, though
not actually forming part of the
same range, they stand not far from
it, and are likely to interest the
same class of travellers and to be
visited during the same trip.

The district treated of in this
route may be best approached from
one of three sides, — from Ueda
or Nagano, on the Karuizawa-Nao-
etsu Railway ; from Gif u, on the
Tokaido Railway ; or fi-om the Sea
of Japan, on which last side To-
yama is the natural starting-point.
The first-mentioned approach is to
be preferred by travellers from
Yokohama, the last two by those
coming from Kobe. Matsumoto and
Fukushima make excellent centres
for excursions among these moun-
tains.

A road is in course of constnic-
tion from Shimashima over the
summit of the Tokugo-toge, a pass

which crosses the range running
parallel to the great ridge of which
Yari-ga-take forms the highest
point. Ultimately it will head down
to the Azusa-gawa, and then proba-
bly, crossing that river, come out on
the Hirayu side of the chain.
Should this be the case, it will
afford a capital high-level route
from Shinano into lOda, and great-
ly facilitate travel through the
vnldest district of Japan.

2. — Feom (tifu on the Tokaido

KAILWAV to T.4KATAMA IN HlDA.

Itinerary.

GIFU to :— m Cho M.

Akutami 2 34 1\

SEKI 2 4 h\

Mabuld 5 29 14^

Asahari 2 7 5J

Kiribora 2 3 5

Kanayama 1 4 2f

Shimohara 15 1

Hoido 3 — 7J

Gero 3 17 ^

Hagiwara 2 4 5|^

Osaka 3 1 7J

Kukuno 3 32 9^

TAKAYAMA 3 4 7J

Total 35 10 8G

This road, called the Uida Kaido,
is practicable for jinriMshas
throughout. Three passes — the
Fukwo-zaka (fine view of Ontake),
the Nagahora-toge close to the
borders of IVIino and Hida, and the
Miya-toge — have to be surmounted ;
elsewhere the road has an easy
gradient. The best accommoda-
tion is at Seki {Inn, Yorozu-ya) and
at Shi7nohara (Inn by Kato Sabiiro-
emon). Fairly good accommodation
may also be found at Tonomura
between Seki and MabuM, at Oero,
and at Osaka.

The tame character of the land-
scape during the early part of the
joiu'ney,^ — low-lying sandy hills clad
with insignificant trees,- — character-
istic of the province of Mino, is
suddenly exchanged, as if by

Hida Kaido. Mafsumoto to Takayama.

289

magic, for scenes of rare beauty on
crossing over into the province of
Hida near Kanayama, and these
continue all the rest of the way.
From Shimohara to Kukuno, the
traveller wends for forty miles
along the beautifully wooded
valley of the Hida-gawa (called
Masuda-gawa and Adanogo-gawa
higher up), through a succession
of rocky ravines. In Hood-time par-
ticularly the scene is grand beyond
description. Curiously enough, one
of the finest parts of the route
— a little beyond the hamlet of
Hoido — has received the ill-sound-
ing name of Jigoku (Hell), apparent-
ly by reason of the awe which it
inspired in rustic beholders when
the old pathway ran along the face
of the precipitous rocks that over-
hang the foaming current. Special-
ly romantic is the gorge from this
point on to Gero, at which place
the vaUey widens, the road becomes
somewhat undulating, and cultiva-
tion is possible. Magnificent, too,
is the view at the confluence of the
Osaka-gawa with the main river,
which here again becomes confined
for several miles within a densely
wooded ravine, whose sides rise
sheer from the water's edge. The
hill between Kukuno and Taka-
yama receives its name of Miya-toge
from a very ancient Shinto temple,
the chief one {Ichi-no-miya) of the
province. It stands in a beautiful
grove at the foot on the N. side.
A short run hence leads down to
the small plain surrounding

Takayama (Inn, *Tani-ga-ya,
in Ichi-no-machi). This, the capital
of Hida, is divided into three main
parts called Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-
machi, and San-no-machi. Shtit in,
as it is, by lofty moiintain ranges,
this place reniains comparatively
ditficult of access. Its shops are
poor, especially in European com-
modities,— an exceptional state of
things nowadays for a town of its
size and importance. Note the
elaborate Shinto shrines in minia-
ture erected in front of many of the

chief buildings, and dedicated to
Akaha-san for protection against
tire (see p. 240).

A good panorama of the town
and neighbouring mountains can be
obtained from Shiroyama, n hill
close by, on which the Daimyo's
castle formerly stood. It is only
10 min. chmb.

3. — Fbom Matsumoto to Takayama
BY THE Abo and Hirayu Passes.

[Ascent of Nokiktjba and
Kasa-dake. Nomugi-toge.]

Itinerary.

MATSUMOTO to :— El Qw M.

Shimashima , ... 5 5 12|-

Inekoki ) ^S... 1 — 2|

Onogawa r ^|.. 3 — 3i

Hirayu ) ^-^ . . . R — 14|

Hatahoko .' 3 8 7^

Hiomo 21 l|

Otani 1 — 2^-

TAKAYAMA 3 1 7|

Total 22 35 56

JinriMshas can be taken from
Matsumoto to Shimashima. They
are also practicable between Hata-
hoko and Takayama, but are not
to be found at the villages on the
way. It might be jiossible, by wait-
ing in advance to the inn at Takfx-
yama, to have some sent out to await
one's arrival. The intermediate
section must be walked, ami the ad-
vice given on pp. 287-8 regarding
baggage strictly borne in mind.
Few walks of thirty miles are to be
foxmd in the whole of Japan com-
parable tor wild and varie*l pictur-
esqueness to that from Shimashima
to Hirayu up the valley of the
Azusa-gawa, and over the Hinoki
and Abo passes.

Leaving Matsumoto, the way is
level and good for several miles as
far as the first of a number of
hamlets, known collectively under
the name of Hata. It then passes
through a pleasant grove of red
pines, becoming somewhat rough,

290

Bovte 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu.

and soon strikes the Azusa-gawa,
where it again becomes good for
most of the way into

Shimasliiina {Inn, Shimizu-ya).
This \ill. is divided in two by the
river, the other part, called Hashiba,
being prettily perched on the r.
bank. This is the best place from
which to ascend Yari-ga-take (see
next section).

Prom Shimashima the path winds
high above the 1. bank of the Azusa-
gawa throiigh a lovely ravine, until
it crosses to Inekoki, a hamlet
known in the neighourhood for
its kaze-ana, or " wind-caves."
These are merely small excava-
tions in the hiUside, used as
storehouses, Thenceforward the
entire walk up the river gorge,
walled in by densely wooded moun-
tains, is inexpressibly grand and
beautiful. The path clings, or
should chng, to the sides of the
living rock ; but fi'equently portions
of it slip down into the gulf be-
low, leaving only the most preca-
rious foothold. Some of the worst
clefts and landsUps have been
bridged over by very primitive
structures. The only opening in
the valley wall occurs about 3 m.
before Onogawa, where a stream
flows in 1. from the Nomugi-toge.

Onogawa (poor inn) is a small
vill. standing on the 1. bank of the
Maegawa, an affluent of the .\zusa-
gawa, at a height of 3,300 ft.

[Ascent of Norikura. Native
pilgrims coming from the direc-
tion of Shinshu make the
ascent_of this sacred mountain
from Onogawa ; those coming
from the west go up from the
vill. of Hatahoko, and the
mountain may also be ascended
from Hirayu, as described
below.

1. As the chmb from Onogawa
to the summit and back may
prove too much for one day,
the mountaineer is advised to
sleep either at a hut (4,800 ft.),
IJ ri above Onogawa, or at the

Murodo, near the top. On the
way are passed the remains of
old furnaces, heaps of slag and
ore, etc., indicating the site of
the once extensive smelting
works of Obi Ginzan. The
ore consists of galena contain-
ing a small quantity of silver.
The sleeping-hut stands not far
from a small stream abound-
ing in excellent trout. There
is no path from the hut to the
summit, and only occasional
indications of a track. Passage
has to be forced through long
grass, trees, and bamboo-grass,
and then up the bed of a small
torrent, where a sulphur spring
breaks out, until one reaches a
steep snow -field. The final
chmb leads over lava blocks
and scoriae, enchng at the small
shrine of Asahi Gongen on the
northernmost and highest peak
of the mountain.

Norikura is an old volcano,
the peak being really one of the
sides of the crater from which
extensive lava-streams formerly
poured. The view should
embrace all the great peaks of
the Japanese Alps, — granite
giants, which unfortunately
are but too often veiled in rain
or mist. _

Instead of returning to Ono-
gawa, it will be found pleasant-
er to descend to the hot springs
of Shirahone, where the accom-
modation is better, and which
is 2^ ri further on towards
Harayn.

2. The way from Hirayu
(locally called the ura-michi, or
" Back Eoad ") leads past a
magnificent cascade more than
200 ft. high, formed by the
Takahara-gawa near its source,
and through some mines (ko-
zan) 2 hrs. from Hirayu, where
it may be advisable to spend
the night, so as to make an
early start, unless indeed the
moiintaineer prefer to arrange
his expedition so as to sleep at

Ascent of Norikura and Kasa-dake.

291

the Murodo hut near the
summit, mentioned above.
Though the mines lie at an
altitude of 7,0(»0 ft., work is
carried on all the year round.
The annual output is about
150,000 lbs. of copper and 2,500
lbs. of silver. The ascent
begins, if one may so say, by
a drop of several hundred
feet down a steep shale slope
to a torrent, whence it is a
rough-and-tiimblo scramble up
through the forest. Emerging
from this, the climb is over
rocks and snow. A charming
lake surrounded by rugged
peaks, and some natural caves,
are interesting objects passed
on the way. The climb from
the mines to the Murodo will
occupy aboiat 5 hrs. The
remainder of the way coincides
with that from Onogawa.

3. From Hatahoko. The total
distance to the summit from
this place is locally estimated
at 7 ri, the path leading via
Ikenomata, "23 eho, and the
silver mines of Hinu/ane, 1^
ri] _

A short ascent leads from Ono-
gawa to a stream running at the foot
of the Hinoki-ioge, up which latter is
an easy walk of 40 min. At 2 hrs.
from Onogawa, the swift current
of the Azi;sa-gawa has to be cross-
ed on a couple of rough pine logs.
Here commences a very steep climb
(practically the beginning of the
Abo-toge) through a thick wood to
the last rest-house, called Tochi-
zaka, whence the remainder of the
way to the summit of that pass is a
perpetual succession of ups and
downs, sometimes over a grassy
surface, at other times up steep
and stony slopes, but mostly
under shade, and at no point
offering any extensive prospect.
The top of the Abo-toge (6,400
ft.) forms the boundary be-
tween the provinces of Shinshii
and Hida, and is remarkable for
the beauty of the virgin forest

which crowns it. The way down
affords glorious views r. of Hodaka-
yama and Kasa-dake, and of Haku-
san to the S.W., also charming
sylvan scenery with moss and
ferns in abundance. The descent
is comparatively short to the hol-
low between high mountains
where nestles the hamlet of

Hirayu (Inn by Kobayashi
Uemon-sabiiro). This place, lying
4,500 ft. above the sea, boasts a
chalybeate spring, the temperature
being high and the baths simple
tanks under open sheds. Silver
is mined on a small scale in the
immediate vicinity. Hirayu should
be made the headquarters of those
mountaineers who desire to scale
Kasa-dake and, as already indi-
cated, Norikura.

[Ascent of Kasa-dake. The
grey cliffs and shining snow-
slopes of Kasa-dake form a
striking picture to one looking
down the narrow valley to the
N.W. of Hirayu. The ascent
can best be made from Nakao,
a tiny hamlet inhabited by
hunters and wood-cutters ;
also from Oamada, which is
picturesquely situated and pos-
sesses hot siilphur baths ; but
there the peasantry are so
superstitious that it is almost
impossible to induce them to
give any help. The climb,
which is extremely arduous,
will occupy about 8 or 9 hrs.,
and the descent 7 or 8 hrs.
"Starting at daylight," says
the Eev. Walter Weston, "we
descend into the Migi-mata
(Right Fork), and ascend the
rocky torrent bed until a
forest is reached, through
whose dense slippery under-
growth a way must be forced.
Emerging at length, we cross
the toiTcnt of the Hidari-mata
(Left Fork) by means of any
bridge that may be im^jro vised.
This is followed by a stiff
climb over broken rocks and
long slopes of snow, whose

202

Route 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu.

lower limit is at an altitude of
about 5,000 ft., in the wild
ravine called Anage-no-tani.
Here to the 1. a pretty cascade
shoots over a cliff, to disappear
under the snow. The cUmb
now becomes more diffictdt,
the rocks being steeper and
bigger, whilst their smooth
surface renders some sort of
waraji indispensable. Some
precipitous grassy slopes then
lead over easier going on snow
and debris up to the final
arete, strikingly characterised
by slabs of broken andesite
lying in regular layers on the
crest of the ridge. In shelter-
ed nooks various Alpine flow-
ers delight the eye, which
wanders afar over all the chief
peaks of Central Japan, and
even to distant Fuji. From
the point where the final arete
is reached, we turn to the
right, and a scramble of half-
an-hour leads to a cairn on the
summit."

" From Nakao a grand route
has been opened over the range
between Hida and Shinshu by
the Yakeyama-toge, — a pass
leading between the peaks
of Yakeyama N. and Iwo-dake
S., — down to the Tokugo hut
on Yari-ga-take (see next page).
The altitude of the pass is
about 7,200 ft., and the views
from the summit of I'^akeyama
towards Kasa-dake, and of
Hodaka-yama in close prox-
imity are magnificent. The
ascent from Nakao to the top
of the pass takes about 3 hrs.,
being quite easy ; but the
descent to the Tokugo hut,
which is both rougher and
longer, will occupy some 3J
hrs. more."]
The ascent of the Hirayu-toge, 1
ri, is very steep ; the descent
through a wood of beech, fir, and
oak, also for 1 ri, much less so. A

considerable area of the forest on
the way down has been cleared to
make room for the cultivation of
buckwheat. This is undertaken,
not by the local peasantry, but by
others from the adjoining province
of Etchu, who cross over anniiaUy
for the purpose. From the bottom
of the actual pass, the path con-
tinues to descend gradually down
the narrow valley of the Nyugawa
for many miles, — almost as far as
Otani, — shut in by lofty wooded
mountains, and occasionally dotted
with houses either isolated or
grouped together in tiny hamlets.
Hatahoko is the only place that
offers tolerable accommodation.
Here, too, the road, hitherto a mere
pathway, widens so as to admit of
the transport of merchandise by
cart.

After the valley opens out, the
scenery assumes a more varied
character, with thriving farmsteads,
murmuring brooks utiUsed to turn
water-wheels, hills of lesser height
near at hand, and grand mountains
in the distance. Later on the road
enters pine-clad hillocks, and passes
by the \'ill. of Maisunoki, where a
rope stretched across the valley
testifies to the survival of an an-
cient superstition.

According to the date at which the
weather causes the rope to snap, omens
are drawn for the crops of the ensuing
twelvemonth. It ia replaced yearly on
the 7th day of the 7th moon. This rope,
the sacred shime-nawa of Shinto, used
to symbolise divinity, here stands for the
celestial beings called Tanabata, for whose
poetic legend see Things Japanese, Article
" Sun, Moon, and Stars."

This spot is one of the "Eight
Views " of the province of Hida.
For the prefectural town of

Takayama, see p. 289.

[An alternative way from Shima-
shima to Takayama is over the
Nomugi Pass, — a succession
of ups and downs. From the
summit (6,000 ft.), Ontake, No-
rikura, and Y'^ari-ga-take are
visible. The viU. of Nomugi
(4,f)00 ft.) lies lA ri down on the

Ascent of Yari-ga-take.

293

"Other side. It is the best place
to stop at on the way. The
itinerary is as follows : —

SHIMASHIMA to :-

Cho

InekoM £ 1

—

25-

Nyuyama S

Yoriaido |-g 2

—

Kawaura p, 2

Nomugi J g* 3

—

Naka-no-shukn 3

Kibyu-dani ... 1

Xabnto 2

TAKAYAMA 3

Total 19 32 48^ ]

4. — Yaki-ga-take and Hodaka-

YAMA.

Yari-ga-take, Ut. Spear Peak, is
most easily reached from the Shin-
shu side via Ueda on the Karui-
zawa-Naoetsu Railway, Matsumoto,
and Shimashima (see p. 290), where
guides can be engaged. The first
part of the way lies along a lovely
valley in which, at a distance of
about 4 m. from Shimashima,
stands a mineral bath-house called
Furotaira. The path ultimately
crosses the steep Tokugd-iorje, 7,1UU
ft., betweenNabe-kammuri-yama on
the N., and Kasumi-ga-take on the
S. The Tokugo sleeping-hut, 4,950
ft., on the far side of the pass, is
grandly situated in the forest on the
bank of the Azusa-gawa, at a dis-
tance of some 7 hrs. on foot from
Shimashima, and fair-sized trout
are here caught in abundance.
Opposite rises the magnificent
granite peak of Hodaka-yama, which
in form and position resembles the
Aiguille du Dru near Chamounix.
From the Tokugo hut, the cUmb
to the summit will take about 9
or 10 hrs., the distance being
calculated at 8 or 9 ri, though the
rough nature of the ground to be
traversed makes such calculations
of comparatively Uttle use. The
descent to the Akasaka no Iwa-
goya — a camping-place for hunters
— will occupy a good walker 2i hrs.

or so, fair shelter under the lee of
an overhanging rock, and plenty
of good water and firewood supply-
ing his needs for a night's bivouac
there.

[An alternative way up, branch-
ing ofE 5 m. beyond the Tokugd
hut, is via the Yoko-o-dani.
Some consider this shorter. In
any case it is more difficult ;
but the scenery is savagely
grand, and the torrent need not
be so often crossed. A natural
cave about ^ m. up the valley
gives good shelter if needed.
The ordinary route is rejoined
at the base of a spur thrown,
out from the cliffs of a peak,
which a broken arete connects
vdth Yari-ga-take.]

The route lies alternately up one
side or other of the bed or banks
of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On
the 1. the steep, craggy, granitic
precipices of Hodaka-yama, streaked
with slopes of shining snow, rise to
a height of over 10,000 ft., while on
the r. are tamer wooded hills. Noble
mountains are these precipitous
masses of granite, surpassing in
wildness any to be seen elsewhere
in Japan, their curiously steep
forms being not unlike some of
the ideal crags depicted in Chinese
art. There is no part of the
country in so truly primeval
a state — vnth perhaps the excep-
tion of some districts of Yamato —
as this torrent-riven valley in the
heart of the Shinano-Hida range,
whose sole frequenters are hunters
seeking bears or the sheep-faced
antelope. At an elevation of (>,400
ft., the Akasaka no Iwa-goya is
passed ; and just above it the
forest ceases, and the first snow-
field is crossed. Hence upward
the way lies mostly over snow;
but just below the summit,
it winds up and among huge
bare masses of rock piled in inde-
scribable confusion. From the ir-
regular resting of some of these
crags so-called " caves " are formed.

294

Eoute 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchv,

■wherein the hunters take xip their
abode whilst watching for bears.
Ptarmigan are common here. After
a stiff climb over snow and debris,
and a rather dangerous scramble
up one side of the peak, we gain the
summit, which consists of a short
narrow ridge of broken rock, —
the tip of the " Spear," nearly per-
pendicular on all sides but the S. E.

"The "view," says Kev. Walter
"Weston, "as one looks straight
down into the wild and desolate
"valleys that stretch away from the
base of the mountain, is most
impressiYe. To the north lie the
almost unknown peaks of the range
between the pro"vinces of Shinshu
and Etchu, which stretches far
towards the Sea of Japan. On the
west stands the rugged form of
Kasa-dake, which we think would
afford a grand climb fi'om the valley
which separates it from us. South-
wards, the eye rests on the nearer
giants of this group, Hodaka-yama
(Myojin-dake) and the massive
double-topped Norikura, and be-
yond these Ontake with the Koma-
ga-take of Shinshu on its eastern
side. To the south-east, but far-
ther off, stands the great mass of
mountains on the borders of Shin-
shu and Koshu, the most prominent
peaks being Shirane-san, Akaishi-
san, and Koma-ga-take. But most
strUdng of aU is the stately cone of
Fuji rising with its majestic sweep
supreme above all else, at a dis-
tance, as the crow flies, of over 85
miles. To enumerate all the sum-
mits to be seen from the point on
which we stand, would be to give
a list of all the gi'andest mountains
in Japan. Only the haze and clouds
to the north-west prevent our view
from embracing the sea in the
Bay of Toyama, so that nearly the
whole width of the central portion
of the empire is included in this
magnificent prospect."

The descent will occupy a good
walker 2^ hrs. to the Akasaka no
Iwa-fjoyn, and thence 12J hrs. to
Shimashima.

The ascent of Hodaka-yama,
as well as that of Yari-ga-take, may
be made from the Tokug5 hut.

" This mountain, also locally
known as Myojin-dake, is one of
the most striking peaks in Japan,
its snow-seamed gi-anite cHffs
rising 5,000 ft. sheer from the nar-
row valley of the Azusa-gawa. For
a short distance the line of ascent —
there is no path to follow — lies in
the direction of Yari-ga-take, and
then turns abruptly to the 1.
through the forest which clothes
the lower slopes of the mountain.
A very rough scramble through
bamboo grass and dense under-
growth at length brings one out on
to loose rocks partly concealed by
low shnibs, after which several
sharp ridges have to be surmount-
ed and nearly perpendicular cliffs
traversed by holding on to bushes
and creepers. Eventually we
emerge into a wild ravine, and a long
climb up the loose and gradually
steepening rocks leads to the foot of
a snow-slope, lying at an angle of
about 40°, at an altitude of 8,500
ft. A stiff climb up this, and then
a stUl rougher scramble up large
masses of smooth rock land us on
the main arete, from which rise the
various peaks of the mountain.
The highest is seen on the left,
and a somewhat difficult ascent
places the climber on the topmost
summit, which is composed of
broken blocks of very hard close-
grained granite. The distant view
is similar to that from Yari-ga-take.
The ascent will take some 6 hrs.
exclusive of halts, the descent about
1 hr. less."

5. — Feom Nagano to Toyama ovee
THE Haeinoki Pass.

The greater portion of the follow-
ing itinerary and of the description
given below must be regarded as
approximate only, the difficulty of
keeping communication open across
so rugged a country being pecu-
liarly great. There is no possibility

Harinoki Pass.

295

of crossing the pass before the ya-
ma-hiraki, or "mountain opening,"
on the '20th June. Even diiring the
summer months communication is
often entirely interrupted, and none
but the most experienced moun-
taineers can hope to succeed in
forcing a way for themselves.
Difficulty is sometimes experienced
in obtaining the services of hunters
to act as guides, the Harinokitoge
being now seldom crossed even by
the natives, and the huts former-
ly existing on the way being
nearly all destroyed, whUst the
central portion of the original track
has, owing to avalanches and land-
slips, been practically effaced.
Still, the route remains one of the
grandest, as well as one of the most
arduous, mountaineering expedi-
tions in Japan.

Itinerary.

NAGANO to :— Ri Cho M.

Sasadaira 3 18 8|

Shimmachi . 2 18 6

Obara 1 — 2^

Hashigi 1 18 3|

So 1 — 2^

OMACm 2 30 7

Noguchi 18 1^

Shirazawa 2 18 6

Maruishi-bashi 1 2 2|

Top Harinoki Pass. 1 21 3|

Futamata 24 1^-

Kurobe 2 11 5|

Top of Zaragoe 1 7 3

Yumoto 2 — 5

Yanagiwara 31 2

Seko 1 6 2|

Hara 3 — 7^

Omi 1 — 2^

Kamidaki 3 — 7^

TOYAMA ^ — 1\

Total 36 6 88i-

JinriMshas can be taken as far
as the hamlet of Koichi, where the
Saiga wa is joined, and from which
point the scenery becomes pretty.
One ri before reacliing

Shimmachi {Inn, Kome-ya), the

road passes over the Yanoshiri-idge,
a steep ascent of 18 cho.

The descent to the hamlet of Anadaira
on the other side was the scene of a great
convulsion in the year 1847, when, owing
to an earthquake, the river was dammed
up by the fall of masses of earth from the
hills on both sides. A small cascade
marks the spot where the waters aftei^
wards broke through. Boats formerly
went all the way down from Matsumoto
to Nagano, but their passage has ever
since been interrupted at Anadaira.

Omachi (Inn, Yama-cho) pre-
sents an old-world appearance,
owing to its flat-roofed wooden
houses like the cottages in the
Alps, -with heavy stones to keep
down the shingling. At Noguchi,
where comfortable quarters can be
obtained at the house of the Ku-
cha, enquiries should be made con-
cerning the state of the road, and
stout-Umbed guides engaged for
the ascent of the Harinoki Pass.
Very little shelter is to be found
before reaching Kurobe, though
just below the summer limit of the
snow on the pass, about 1 ri from
the top, at an elevation of some
5,500 ft., a rude camping-place
called Ushi-goya can be xitilised for
a bivouac. As it is not feasible to
reach Kurobe from Noguchi in one
day, the traveller must put up
vidth this ; and on the following day
a short but extremely rough scram-
ble over the snow and down the
steep mountain side and the torrent
bed on the "W. of the pass, will
bring him to Kurobe, where the
second night must be spent.

From the summit (8,120 ft.), Fuji
is seen as in a vignette between the
ranges of Y'^atsu-ga-take and Koma-
ga-take, the other most noteworthy
feature of the view being Yari-ga-
take.

[A round, bare peak called Go-
roku-dake, 9,10U ft., may be as-
cended from this point by for-
cing a way through low, dense
clumps of creeping pine; but
there is no shelter to sleep in.
The peak consists of trachyte
porphyry piled against granite.]

296

Boute 31. — Mountains of Hida and Etchu.

The traveller now leaves the
province of Shinshu for that of
Etchu, and will notice, both on the
summit and on the way down, the
alder-trees (hari-no-ki or han-no-ki)
which give their name to the pass.
The valley on this side is known as
the Harinold-sawa.

Kurobe consists of but one
dilapidated hut on the banks of the
swift Kurobe-gawa, which has to
be forded before the hut can be
reached. From here to Ryuzan-jita
is another short but arduous scram-
ble over the Nukui-dani-toqe and
the Zara-goe, 7,300 ft. The valley
of the latter pass, filled with shin-
ing slopes of snow topped with
precipitous cliffs, is very lovely,
whilst the view from the summit
is magnificently wild. Ail around,
enormous landslips and confused
masses of rock, hurled down from
the tops of the mountains to the
gorge below, bear witness to the
terribly destructive forces by which
this part of the country has been
ravaged. The rocky mass in front
is one of the slopes of Tateyama,
while on the 1. a view of the soft
plains of Toyama and of the sea
beyond contrasts agreeably with
the savage aspect of the nearer
landscape. The Jinzu-gawa is seen
in the plain wending its way
towards the Sea of Japan, and the
blue outline of the provinces of
Kaga and Noto fills up the distant
background. The descent leads
through a wUderness of rocks and
stones, and includes the most dif-
ficult portions of the whole expedi-
tion. Here and there sulphur
fumes are seen rising from the
mountain side, and shortly before
reaching Byuzan-jita a curious
circular lake {Mago-ike) of hot
sulphurous water is passed on the
1. hand.

Yutnoto, or Ryuzan-jita, com-
monly called Tateyama Onsen on
account of its hot springs, stands at
a height of 4,150 ft., in a desolate
waste, — a chaos of large boulders,
sand, and stones, left by the great

earthquake of 1858. On quitting
this place, the path continues down
a grand, rugged gorge, called Da-
shiwara-dani at its upper end.
Before descending to Kamidaki, the
best general view of Tateyama and
of the range forming the boundary
of the province of Etchu is obtain-
ed. It is sometimes possible to get
jinrildshas at Kamidaki. The road
onward crosses a well-cultivated
plain, and joins the Hokkoku
Kaido a few cho before reaching
Toyama (see Rte. 42).

6. — Fkom Itoigawa on the Sea oe
Japan to Omachi and Matsu-
MOTO. Ascent of 0-E.enge-

TAMA AND JoNEN-DAKE.

A day's journey west along the
coast from Naoetsu leads to Itoi-
gawa, whence a jiniikisha road
runs south to Omachi and Matsu-
moto, thus skirting nearly the
whole length of the E. side of the
Hida-Etchu range, affording grand
views of many of the mountains,
and giving access to their inmost
recesses. This road follows the
valley of the Himekawa, — here a
roaring torrent, there a silent
though swift-flowing stream. After
6 ri of varied and picturesque
scenery, we reach Yamanobn, where
good quarters may be found at the
Soncho's, and arrangements made
for the ascent of 0-Kenge-yama.

0-Renge-yama, the highest
mountain in the N. portion of the
range, receives its name from a
fancied resemblance to the lotus-
flower. Strictly speaking, it is a
cluster of peaks rather than one
distinct mountain. The ascent of
the highest point presents no
special difiiculties. Fi-om the Son-
cho's house it is a walk of about 7
hrs., including halts at the hamlets
of Odokoro and Kishi, to Eenge On-
sen, I2 ri before reaching which we
climb the Hatcho-zaka, in whose
neighbourhood is a mine caUed
Itatate. Both accommodation and.

Ascimt of 0-Renge-yama, Jonen-dake, and Tateyama. 297

fare at the Onsen are poor. The
solfataras, however, and the lake
well deserve inspection. The
numerous hot springs vary in tem-
perature from 95° to 118° Fahren-
heit. Leaving the Onsen at day-
break, a roughish scramble through
the forest and over snow-siopes
brings us in 3 hrs. to another
quaint old mine, fine views being
gained of the great snow-clad peak
of Yukikura-dake on the opposite
side of the valley. From the mine
to the mountain top takes 2J hrs.
more, chiefly on snow, until reach-
ing the final arete, whence over
broken volcanic rocks. At the
summit we are gi'eeted by an
astonishingly extensive view, rang-
ing from Toyama Bay and the
peninsTila of Noto on the N.W. to
Fuji on the S. E., — in fact right
across Central Japan. The nearer
prospect, especially on the E., is
that of precipitous broken depths
and great ghstening snow-slopes.
The descent to the Onsen need not
occupy more than 3J hrs.

From Yamanobo to Omachi is a
distance of about 14 ri. Jinrikishas
must not be counted on, but horses
or small carts (ni-guruma) can
always be procured for the luggage.
The best accommodation on the
way is at Kudarise, also called
Bamba linn, Zeni-ya). Near Kitajo
the valley opens out, and the road
passes on the E. side of lovely Lake
Aoki, and also later on of Lake Ki-
zaki, before reaching the plain in
which Omachi (sec p. 295) stands.

Ten ri separate Omachi from
Matsumoto, the best halting-places
being Kita Ilodaka (Inn, Toshi-ya),
6 ri, and Toyoshina, 1 ri 8 cho fur-
ther on. Grand views during all the
first part of the way, as we cross the
lower foot-hills of the Hida range.

Ascent of Jonen-dake. At
Toyoshina a road branches off W.
to the hamlet of Iwahara (Karasu-
gawa-mura), about 2 ri, which is
the best starting-point for the as-

cent of Jonen-dake, the beautiful
pyramidal peak rising due east of
Yari-ga-take. Guides for the ascent
can be procured through the Soncho
of the village. The ascent will oc-
cxi-pj about 12 hrs. and the descent
8 hrs., inclusive of halts. Two days
are therefore necessary, the first of
which is devoted to the climb up to
the bivouac on the N. shoialder of
the mountain, the ascent being
completed early the following
morning, so as to ensure a clear
view and a return to Iwahara by
daylight. The expedition begins by
fording the swift torrent of the
Karasu-gawa, after which we turn
westward over a moor, whose soft
springy turf is gay with kikyo and
lilies. After several miles of this,
the track winds round the flanks of
the intervening hills until, about 5
hrs. from the start, we again reach
the wild rocky bed of the Karasu-
gawa. Our way now follows the
stream for nearly 5 hrs. more of
very rough and ardiious work.
Leaving it at length, we strike up a
steep ravine on the left. Up this,
or through the trees of the precipi-
tous slope on its r., we scramble to
the camping-place where the night
is spent in the pine forest, and
where a magnificent view rewards
us for our toil. Confronting us are
all the mighty precipices between
Yari-ga-take and ilodaka-yama,
seamed and streaked "with snow.
Grander still, after the final climb,
is the panorama from the summit,
inckiding nearly all the great peaks
of the HidiV-Shinshu range, with
Fuji and the intervening Koshu
group, the Koma-ga-take of Shin-
shu, Asama-yama, and many more.
Returning to Iwahara and Toyo-
shina, a fair road takes us into
Matsumoto across the Azusa-gawa, —
distance from Toyoshina under 3 ri.

7. — Tateyama.

Tateyama is the collective name
given to the lofty summits which
stand on the E. border of the prov-

298

Route 31. — Mountains of Hid a and Etchv.

ince of Etchu, to the N.W. of the
Hatinold Pass. The highest of the
peaks [Go-honsho) rises some 9,500
ft. above the level of the sea. The
main ascent leads tip the W. side of
the mountain fi'om the hamlet of
Ashikvra (accommodation at the
Shint5 priest's house), which can be
reached from Toyama, the capital
of Etchu, -^-ia Kamidaki. The dis-
tances are : Toyama to KamidaM,
3 ri 20 cho by jinrikisha ; thence on
foot to Ashikura, 3 ri 8 cho, —
maldng 16^ m. altogether.

The way tip the mountain is
arduoits in parts, nor is there any
shelter, except two or three wretch-
ed huts, to be got diu-ing the whole
distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to
the Murodo, 2J m. from the sum-
mit. The Murodo itself is a better
and larger hut, which is opened for
the accommodation of pilgrims
from the 20th July to the 10th
September. Scarcely anything in
the way of bedding is procurable,
and but httle to eat except rice.
(In a valley situated about 6 cho to
the 1. of the Miu'odd are the re-
markable solfataras of Ojigoku, or
" Big Hell." The way thither, after
passing between two tarns, one of
which is probably an old crater,
reaches the brow of a hill com-
manding a bird's-eye yjevf of the
springs. The whole valley seems
alive with pools of boiling mud and
stilphur. Descending to the bottom,
one should tread carefully amidst
the small hillocks of sulphur, as a
false step might plunge one into
the boiling hquid beneath.)

From the Murodo hut to the
highest summit, whose name of Go-
honsha comes from the picturesque
temple with which it is crowned,
is 1 hr. cUmb, partly across snow-
slopes and then up the rocky peak
forming the top of the mountain.
At the end, a truly superb pano-
rama unfolds itself before the
spectator's gaze. The number of
mountains to be distinguished is
extraordinaiHy great. To the
extreme 1., looking eastward, are

seen ]\Ty5ko-zan and Yoneyama in
Echigo, Naiitai-zan near Nikko, and
Togakushi-san and Asama-yama in
Shinshu. Towards the S. E. rises
the range of Yatsta-ga-take, with the
isolated peak of Tateshina-yama,
beyond which are seen Fuji and
the high peaks of Shirane and
Koma-ga-take in Kdshu. To
the S. are Koma-ga-take and
Ontake in Shinshu ; Yari-ga-take,
Noiikura, and Kasadake, with (in
closer proximity) Yakushi-dake, —
all in Hida. To the S.W. is Haku-
aan on the borders of Kaga. Below,
to the W., lie the plains of Kaga
and Etchu, the latter watered by
the river's Jinzu and Jogwanji, while
to the N. the view is bounded by
the Sea of Japan.

The traveller who succeeds in
reaching Kyuzan-jita will find the
climb fi'om there up Tateyama far
preferable to that from Ashikm-a;
for though the first part of the as-
cent is very steep, the whole expedi-
tion can be comfortably accom-
plished in one day, if the start be
made at daybreak, and thus the
night in the crowded and uncomfor-
table Murodo, with its host of
pilgrims and fleas, may be avoided.
A little more than 1 hr. climb up
the cliffs by the pilgrims' path, just
opposite the baths, lands him on the
edge of a wide plateau called Mida-
ga-hara, the %iew from near the
top of the ridge being exceptional-
ly fine. The track is then fairly
level, though generally wet and
slippery for some distance, and
ultimately falls in with the path
leading from Ashikura to the
summit of the mountain.

8. — ^Fkom ToYAiviA IN Etchu to
Takayama in Hida by the Val-
ley OF THE TaKAHAEA-GAWA.

livierary.

TOYAMA to:— Ri Cho M.

Kami Okubo 3 — 7^

Sasazu 1 — 2^

Katakake 2 17 6

Inotani 27 13

Takahara S Shirakavm Valleys. Hahu-san.

299

Higashi Mozumi .

Funatau

Furnkawa

. 2 — 0
. 4 .; 10^
. 5 26 14

TAKAYAMA

. 3 28 9,^

Total

...22 32 56

This picturesque route is prac-
ticable for jiniildsbaR. The best
accommorlation is at Bigashi Mozu-
mi {Inn by Kinoshita Shojiro), at
Funaisu {Inn, Ozaka-ya), and at
Furukawa {Inn, Yatsu-san). Before
reaching the boundary of the prov-
inces of Etchu and Hida, the
Jinzu-gawa curves away to the r.,
while the road to Funatsu follows
the Takahara-gawa, one of its
affluents. The view at the forking
of the rivers is most picturesque,
and the whole way hence to
Funatsu ruggedly grand. A silver
mine {Shikawa Ginzan) is sitimted
in the neighbourhood.

[Travellers bound for the Hida-
Shinshti mountains may con-
veniently tliverge here to the
hamlet of Oamada (seep. 291)
about 8 ri, or to that of Hirayu,
about 9 ri, by following the
Takahara-gawa nearly the
whole way to its source.]

Between Funatsu and Furukawa
we cross the Akasaka-toge, 3,850 ft.
above the sea, and 1,600 ft. above
Funatsu. On the way dow^n, there
is a beautiful view across the Y'^oka-
machi valley and the low pine-clad
hills separating this valley from
that of the Rjiyagawa and the plain
which surrounds the provincial
capital of

Takayaraa (see p. 289).

9. — From Toyama or Kanazawa to
Takayama in Hida by the Val-
ley OF THE ShIEAKAWA.

The first stage in either case is
by rail to Takaolca, whence also by
rail southwards to Jo-ga-hana, after
which the itinerary is as follows : —

JO-GA-FANA to :— Ei Cho M.

Shimo Nashi 4 4 10

Nishi Akao 2 26 6|

Tsubaki-hara 3 10 8

lijima 2 18 6

Hirase 2 30 7

Iwase 2 5 5J

Kurodani 1 22 3t

Mumai 1 33 4|

Kami Odori 2 18 6

Maki-ga-hora 2 26 6^|

Mklca-machi 10 f

TAKAYAMA 1 20 3|

Total 28 6 68|

This route is not practicable for
jinrikishas except between Mikka-
machi and Takayama ; biit they are
not always to be found at the
former place. Horses are not pro-
curable in the valley of the Shira-
kawa, and baggage is transported
by cattle or on cooUes' backs.
Fairly good accommodation can be
had at Jo-ga-hana, and accommoda-
tion, which is at least passable, at
most of the villages. The scenery
is for the most part dehghtfully
picturesque, and there are many
magnificent distant views.

10. — Haktj-san.

This celebrated mountain, stand-
ing on the borders of the four prov-
inces of Echizen, Kaga, Hida, and
Mino, may be ascended either from
Kanazawa or from Pukui. The
itinerary by the former route to
Y'^umoto, a vill. at the base, is as
follows : _

KANAZAWA (Ohashi) to :—

Ri Cho M.

Tsurugi 4 7 lOJ

Onnawara 5 29 14|^

Ushikubi 4 4 10

YUMOTO(about)... 5 — 12^

Total 19 4 46|

Fair accommodation at Tsurugi ,•
better at

Yutnoto (Inn, Yamada-ya). The
road is practicable for jiniikishas
over a sandy road only as far as

300

Route 31. — Mountains of Hid a and Etchu.

Tsiimgi ; from Ushikiibi onward the
river flows through a fine rocky ra-
vine, whose lofty crags rise to a great
height. Ynmoto, noted for its hot
springs, is completely shut in by
densely wooded hills, and is deserted
in winter by its inhabitants, who do
not return till the beginning of June.
There are several other sulphur
springs on the mountain side. The
ascent and descent of Haku-san
from Yumoto make an easy day's
expedition, the climb to the Muro-
do hut occupying a good walker
3 hrs., and the steep clamber thence
to the shrine on the top {Go-hon-
sha), 25 min. The glorious view
from the summit includes Tate-
yama N.E., Yari-ga-take E.N.E.,
Norikura a little to the S. of E.,
Y^atsu-ga-take and the Koma-ga-
take of K5shu in the dim distance,
Ontake E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-
take of Shinshti. In the immediate
neighborirhood are Bessan on the
S. and Onanji on the N., M^hich,
with the central and highest peak
called Gozen-mine, together con-
stitute the three summits of Haku-
san. To the N. W. rises the lofty
top of Shaka-ga-take. On the E.
side is Tsurugi, or " the Sword," so
called from its pointed rocky peaks,
and on the W. the Oku-no-in. Two
tarns lie at the bottom of what are
apparently ancient craters. The
water of the one which lies to the
N. is of a beautiful turquoise, that
of the other dull in colour, and
both are absolutely tasteless.

The itinerary from Fukui to Yu-
moto is as follows :

FUKUI (Arahashi) to :—

Ri Cho M.

Matsuoka 2 4 5^

Komyoji 1 22 3J

Katsuyama 4 — 9f

K6g5 2 8 5J

Hayashfs farm ... 2 32 7

Top of Ohara-toge.. 1 18 3|

Mizutani 2 — 5

YUMOTO 18 3

Total 17 20 42|

JinriMshas go as far as Katsu-
yama (Inn, Izumi-ya), which affords
the only fair accommodation on
the way. The scenery is wild and
picturesque.

11. — Feom Takayama in Hida to

FUKUSHIMA ON THE NaKASENDO.

Itinerary.

TAKAYAMA to :— Ri Cho M.

Kabiito 3 1 7J

Kibyii-dani 2 31 7

Naka-no-shtiku ... 1 13 3,^

Kami-no-hara 1 18 3^

Adanogo 1 5 2|

Hiwada 2 20 6^

Kami Nishino 3 — l\

Suegawa 2 1 5

Kurokawa 3 — 1\

FUKUSHIMA 1 — 2 J

Total 21 17 52^

As far as Nishino, baggage is
generally carried by women, some-
times by cattle. Beautiful views
occur all along the route. The best
accommodation is at Kami Aishino,
whence it is possible to ascend
Ontake, a climb of 7 ri ; but the
way is a difficult one, and either of
those given below is to be pre-
ferred.

12. — Ontake and the Koma-ga-
TAKE or Shinshu.

Ontake,* one of the loftiest
mountains in Japan, is considered
the most sacred next to Fuji, and
yearly attracts crowds of pilgrims.

The phenomena of trance and so-called
divine possession, often to be witnessed
on this holy peak, have been fully de-
scribed by Mr. Percival Lowell in his
work entitled Occult Japan.

Dr. Rein, writing from a very different
point of view, says; "Ontake is a long
ridge running N. and S., on the summit
of which are eight larger and several
smaller craters. Six of the former lie in
a row along the ridge, while the other

* Al.^o called Mitalce, but not to be con-
founded with the other mountains of that
name in Musashi and Koshu.

Ontake. Skinshu Koma-ga-take.

301

two are Situated on the N.W. side towards
Bida. They are more or less circular in
form, from 300 to 1.000 metres (2,624 to
3,280 ft.) in circumference, and with one
exception have no great depth. Their
walls have fallen in in many places, and
access to most of them is thereby facili-
tated. Their relative ajje can be easily
recognised by the weathering of the dole-
ritic lava, but still better by the manner
in which vegetation has planted itself in
them and their sunken walls. Thus the
most northerly crater, which now con-
tains a tarn, and whose sides ofl'er a rich
harvest to the botanist, seems to be the
oldest ; then come the 2nd and 3rd, pro-
ceeding S.. and lastly the 4th and highest,
from the 8. side of which we survey the
surrounding prospect. Each of these
craters lies 15 to 20 metres (50 to 65 ft.)
higher than the one immediately preced-
ing. The 6th from the N., which is
entirely surrounded by the wall of the
6th, is ifldisputably a comparatively new
formation, for its steep and fissured sides
are quite fresh and devoid of vegetation,
as if they had only lately cooled down.
No debris are to be distinguished any-
where, as far as the eye can follow the
deep ravine, which is connected with this
crater on the S.W. Far below springs a
brook, close to which rises up the steam
of a solfatara. No eruption of Ontake,
hov.ever, seems to have taken place in
historical times. "^ — Ontake is particularly
rich in spe<-ie8 of plants that are only to
be found at great altitudes.

The best starting-point for those
approaching Ontake from the Naka-
Bendo side is Fukushima, whence
the suramit may be reached in 1
day by making an early start. The
night is spent at a hut near the
top, whence the descent occupies a
short day. Some recommend that
while the mountain is being
climbed, the luggage should be
sent on to Agematsu, and the
descent be made to that place by
turning off at Kurozawa, the road
between which and Agematsu is
fairly good and the scenery lovely.
A still better alternative, however,
is to descend by the ordinary
pilgiim route to Otaki, which takes
about 7 hrs., whence the walk
into Agematsu via Hashide oc-
cupies some 3 hrs. more.

Steps formed of logs somewhat
facilitate the climb throiigh the
forest. Ridges of cinders and rough
debris of rocks have then to be pass-

ed. The view from the summit
embraces Haku-san to the N.W.,
then to the r. the peninsula of Note,
and still further to the r. a row of
mighty peaks that bear traces of
snow even during the greatest sum-
mer heat. Conspicuous among
these are Norikura, Yari-ga-take,
and Tateyama. Far to the N.E. rise
the volcano of Asama and the
chain separating the provinces of
Kotsuke and Shinshli. To the E.
appears Yatsu-ga-take, and to the
S.E. far-off Fuji, with the Koma-
ga-take of Shinshii in the near dis-
tance.

The Shinsliu Koma-ga-take,
loftiest of all the mountains bearing
that bcwilderingly common name,
is most conveniently ascended from
Agematsu. The distance from that
village to the summit is called 4 ri
8 cho, and the ascent, part of which
is very steep, will occupy a good
walker over 6 hrs. Three or four
huts on the way up afford shelter
in bad weather. The native pil-
grims, who do not care to make the
round of the various peaks forming
the top of the mountain, but merely
wish to visit Go-hons-ha, the highest
point, usually ascend and descend
in one day. But the traveller is
recommended rather to time his
excursion so as to sleep at a hut
called Tamakubo, 3 ri 32 cho from
Agematsu, in order to witness the
magniticent spectacle of sunrise
from the siammit. Looking east-
wards, the eye sweeps along an
almost continuous line of moun-
tains that rise beyond the valleys
of the Ohikuma-gawa and Tenryu-
gawa, the prominent summits in
order fi'om the 1. being Asama-yama
N. N. E., Tateshina N. E. by N.,
Yatsii-ga-take N.E. by E., the Ko-
shu Koma-ga-take E. by N., and,
directly opposite, Shirane-san, in-
chiding all its three summits, — Kai-
gane-san, Ai-no-take, and Nodori-
san. The sharp peak seen between
Koma-ga-take and Kaigane-san is
the summit of Ho-o-zan. To the
S.E. rises a lofty snow-streaked

S02

Boutii 32. — The Shrines of he.

range with three conspicuous
summits, the highest of which is
called Akaishi. Another striking
feature is the cone of Fuji, which
towers lip beyond a depression to
the r. of Nodori-san. Looking
westward, the view embraces a
considerable portion of the great
chain that forms the boundary
between the provinces of Shinshii
and Hida, the most prominent
summit being Ontake bearing N.
of W., to whose r., rising in succes-
sion to the N., are Norikura, Kasa-
dake, Hodaka-yama, and Yari-ga-
take. In the distance, the jieaks
of Tateyama are discernible be \ ond
Yari-ga-take. To the N. W. the
distant outhne of Haku-san is visi-
ble, while in nearer proximity to
the S. rises Ena-san in the province
of Mino. There is also an extensive
view over the province of Mikawa
and a portion of T5tomi, with
several mountains, including the
double summit of Horaiji-yama in
the former province and Aldha-san
in the latter.

Instead of returning to Age-
matsu, one may descend Koma-ga-
take on the E. side to Ina on the
Ina Kaid5, in 1 day. There the
Kapids of the Tenryu-gawa are
within easy reach (see p. 28G).

13. — Ena-san.

Standing at the S. end of the
great divide between the Kiso and
Tenryu valleys, this fine mountain,
7,4.50 ft. high, commands a magni-
ficent panorama of the mountains
of Central Japan, and has the
advantage of being comparatively
easy of access. The ascent is made
from Nakats-u-gawa (Inn, Hashi-
rild) on the Nakasendo, whence the
expedition up and down takes one
long day, with varied and delight-
ful views.

Ena-san may also be ascended
from Ochiai, 1 ri further up the
Nakasendo than Nakatsu-gawa ;
but this alternative way, though
shorter, is much steeper.

Nakatsu-gawa being conveni-
ently situated for reaching the
Tenryu-gawa, the descent of the
rapids of that river may be com-
bined with a trip up Ena-san. It is
a day's walk over the Misaka-toge,
with lovely views of Ontake and
the mountains of Koshu, to Toki-
mata (see p. 285.)

ROUTE 32.

The Shkines op Ise.

1. peeliminaey information. 2.
lokyo to yamada. 3 naba to
tamada. 4. yamada and neigh-
bourhood, the temples of ise.
[province of SHIMA.]

1. — Peeliminabt Information.

Ise is tke name, not of a town, but of a
province lying to the E. and S. E. of
Kyoto on the W. shore of Owari Bay. The
temples, which rank highest among the
holy places of the Shinto cult, stand on
the outskirts of the town of Yamada,
near the S. E frontier of the province. It
should be premised that the interest of
the trip to Ise is chiefly antiquarian.
Without going so far as to sav, with a
disappointed tourist, that " there is noth-
ing ti> see, and they won't let you see it,"
we may remind intending travellers of
the remarkable plainuess of all Shinto
architecture, and add that the venera-
tion in which the shrines ot Ise are held
is such that none but priests and Imper-
ial personages are allowed to penetrate
into the interior. The rest of the world
may go no further thau the first enclos-
ure, and eveti there, on festival days,
visitors are sometimes called on to remove
not only their hats but their overcoats.

The ways of reaching Yamada

are as follows :

I. From Tokyo by Tokaido Railway
to Nagoya, first day. Thence by
Kwansai Railway to Kameyama
Junction, and on by Sangu Kail-
way to Yamada, — second day.

n. From Nara by Kwansai Railway
via Kamo to Kameyama, and on

Ways to Yamada.

303

by Sangu Kailway as in No. 1.
This will take one day.
in. From Kobe to Osaka, where
drive across to Amijima station
(20 Uiin. with 2 men), and thence
without change of car to Kamo
Junction, after which as in No. 2.
The section of the Kwansai line
between Osaka and Kamo leads
across the flat through small
places of no interest. It is tra-
versed in 2 hrs.

2. — Fbom Tok\6 to Yamada.

A full description of the 12 hrs.
journey by Tokaido Eailway from
Tokyo to Nagoya wUl be found in
Route 23. From Nagoya onwards
the schedule is as follows : —

Kwansai Railway.

lil

Names

Remarks

ft '^^

Stations

NAGOYA

im.

Aichi

Kanie

lOj

Yatomi (Maega-

8U)

KUWANA

194^

Tomida

yOKKAICHI

27J

Kawarada

31^

Takamiya

37i

KAMEYAMA Jet.

1 For Yamada
\ and for Kyoto.

Sangu Railway.

395

Shimonosho

Ishinden

T8U

49',

Akogi

52"

Takajaya

55^

Rokken

MAT8UZAKA

6O3

Tokuwa

Oka

68i

Tamaru

"tOi

Miyagawa

Suji-mukai-basht

YAMADA

Aichi, only a minute or two
from Nagoya station proper, is a
suburb which gives its name to this
important prefecture. The country

through which the line passes is
intersected by a network of rivers,
which here debouch into the sea.
The Kisogawa, swelled by the waters
of the Nagiira-gawa and the Ibigawa,
is the largest of these, and by its
liability to overflow its flat banks,
offers grave engineering difficulties.
Extensive works have been set on
foot with the object of minimising
the recurrence of destructive floods.
The two longest bridges are be-
tween Yatomi and Kuwana, one of
which has as many as fourteen
spans, where the river measures
two-thirds of a mile in width. The
view of distant mountains is pretty
all the way as one proceeds west-
wards, relieving the monotony of
the sea of rice-tields on either hand.
Kuwana (Inn, Chokai-ro), some
10 cho to the W. of its station, is a
large town, formerly the residence
of a rich Daimyo. Its decidedly
second-rate attractions are the
Temple of the Gods of Kasugn, and
at the W. end, Atago-yama, whither
the inhabitants go out on holidays
for the sake of the view. The
noted Shinto Temple of Tado, which
stands in a glen a few miles off the
road, on the way between Maegasu
and Kuwana (2 ri 23 cho from the
latter town), has lovely maples and
flowering trees, and is altogether a
picturesque and curious place.

It is dedicated jointly to the Sun-
Goddess and to Ichi-mokuren, a one-eyed,
dragon-god, who is very powerful as a
rain-producer. Accordingly this temple is
much resorted to iu times of drought, the
peasants carrying o& gohei from it to their
respective fields and villages. They must,
however, be careful not to let the gohei
touch the ground anywhere on the way ;
for all the rain would then fall on that
spot, and none would be left for the
places where it is wanted.

From Kuwana on to Yokkaichi,
the chief thing to notice is the
mountain range that separates the
provinces of Ise and Omi. The
land of the little peninsula of Chita
is also seen in the bhie distance to
the 1. The old Tokaido road is
crossed two or three times.

304

Route 32. — The Shrines of Ise.

Yokkaichi (Inn, *Takasago-
kwan, near steamer landing-place ;
Matsnmo-ro) was the first Japa-
nese town to Enropeanise itself
with clusters of factory chimneys,
now so common a sight throiigh-
ont the empire. The situation
of the town is a good one, there
being fresh breezes from Owari
Bay in siimmer. and a fine pros-
pect of the mountains on the
borders of Omi and Iga. Yokkaichi
is one of the " Special Open Ports "
for the export of rice, wheat, floiir,
coal, and sulphur ; and much trade
is carried on by sea, notwithstand-
ing the extreme shallowness of the
bay, which prevents any but quite
small craft from approaching the
shore at any point. Among the
principal products of Yokkaichi
may be mentioned oil, rice, paper,
silk, and Banko faience, — a ware,
for the most part, exceedingly light
and having hand-modelled decora-
tion in relief. The best Banko
shop is that kept by Kawamura
Matasulie in Minami-machi ; but
every variety of this cheap and
fascinating ware may easily be
procured in Y'okohama and Kobe.
Tarusaka-yama, in the ^dcinity, is
the favourite holiday resort of the
townsfolk, especially in spring-
time.

Between Y'^okkaichi and Kame-
yama the railway continues along
the old Tokaido, whose avenrie of
pine-trees forms a characteristic
feature. The mountains to the r.
are those on the borders of Omi,
the most prominent being the
Suzuka-toge, with Kama-ga-take at
the N. and Ky5-ga-mine at the S.
extremity.

Kameyama (Araki-ya, at sta-
tion, Europ. food). We here
change from the Kwansai to the
Sangu, or Pilgi-im Railway, so
called from the Shrines of Ise to
which it leads,. At

Ishiudeu, stands an enormoiis
Buddhist temple called Senshuji,
or more commonly T'lkata no
Oobb.

Thip, the chief tnonaatery of the Takata
sub-sect, was founded at Takata iu SUimo-
tsuke by the celebrated abbot Shinran
Shonin in 1226, and removed here in IdSS
by the priest Shin-e.

The building closely resembles in
style and scale the vast Hongwanji
temples described under Tokyo and
Kyoto, which is as much as to say
that it is majestically spacious and
chastely rich. The architectural
similarity is accounted for by the
fact that the Takata and Hongwanji
are sister sects, both being sub-
divisions of the great Shin sect.

Tsu (Inns, Teich5-kwan, JVIatsu-
zaka-ya, with branch at station),
which, with its subiirbs, is 5 m.
long, is the capital of the prefectiu-e
of Mie. In the middle of the town,
close to the inns, stand two noted
Buddhist temples, — Kwannon-ji and
Kd no Amida, the former rather
tawdry, the latter exquisite though
on a small scale.

The legend on which the sanctity of this
temple rests, is a good example of the
fusion that took place between Buddhism
and Shinto in early times. A Buddhist
priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage
of one hundred days to the shrine of the
Sun-Goddess at Ise, to entreat her to
reveal to him her original shape, — the
idea in those days being that the Shintd
deities were avatars, or temporary mani-
festations (gongen), of which Buddhist
saints were the originals (Honchi Butsu).
On the hundredth night the Sun-Goddess
appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com-
manding him to go out next morning on
the sea-shore of Futami, where she pro-
mised to sliow herself to him as she really
was. He did so, and there appeared
floating on the surface of the waves a
gold-coloured serpent over ten feet long.
But the priest was not yet satisfied.
"This."' cried he, "is but a pious device
on the part of the divinity, whose real
shape that monster can never be," — and
so saying, he took off him his priestly
scarf and flung it at the serpent, which
vanished with it into the sea. Three
nights later the Goddess appeared to
Kakujo in a second dream, and said ;
" The serpent indeed was but another
temporary manifestation. My real shape
is preserved in the temple of Muryojuji at
Ko in the district of Suzuka in this same
land of Ise. Go thither, and thou shalt
see it." He went accordingly, and found
that Amida was the Buddhist deity there
worshipped. The image was considered
so holy that the priests of the temple at

Tsu.

305

first refused to show it ; but what was not
the astonishment of all present when, on
Kakujo's request being at last, granted,
the scarf which he had thrown at the sea-
serpent was found twined round the
image's neck ! — The removal of the
temple to Tsu took place about A.D. 1680,
when the original shrine at Ko had fallen
into decay, and the image had been found
one day thrown down on the place where
the temple now holding it has been raised
in its honour.

The holy image is enclosed in a
■shrine on the altar, and is only
exhibited on payment of a fee,
when a short service in its honour
is performed and the legend recited
by the attendant priest. E,. and 1.
are images of Kwannon and Seishi.
Behind, and continuing all round
the walls of the building, are dimin-
utive images of all the Buddhas
and Bosatsu, called Sen-oku Butsu
(" a thousand million Buddhas ").
Among other objects of interest,
note the very large wooden figure
representing Buddha dead. It is
laid on real quilts. GUt and paint-
ed carvings of Buddhas and angels
fill the ramma of the shrine. The
green coffered ceiling is covered
with gilt Sanskrit characters in
relief. A mirror in front of the al-
tar attests that the temple belongs
to the Shingon sect. A small oc-
tagonal structure to the 1. contains
gilt images of the Thirty-three
Kwannon. If possible, this temple
should be visited in the evening,
when there are almost always
crowds of pilgidms, who — though
Ise is their chief objective point —
also think it well to pay their re-
spects at lesser shrines on the way.

Kwannon-ji was formerly noted for a
boisterous festival called Oai-osae, or
" Demon-quelling." Two fishermen re-
presenting demons were brought in a
cage, with flaming torches on their heads ;
and it was their part to enter the temple
and carry off the stone image here wor-
shipped, which had been originally fished
up out of the sea, while others of the
guild repelled them with naked sword.^.
A quieter festival, held on the lst-3rd
March, has been substituted.

At the far end of the town, stands
1. a temple dedicated to Yuki Kotsu-
fce jw Suke, a celebrated retainer of

Kusunoki Masashige. It dates
from 1884, and offers an elegant
example of modern Shinto archi-
tecture. The same grounds contain
a small, but gaily painted, shrine of
Hachiman. A little further on,
various paths marked by torii or
by sign-posts, lead 1. to an ancient
and popular Shinto temple, situated
in a pine-grove on the sea-shore,
and called Karasu Gozen no Yashiro,
that is, the Crow Temple.

This temple is dedicated to Waka-
hirume (also called Ori-hime, i.e., the
Weaving Maiden), a younger sister of the
Sun-Goddess. The name Karasu in itself
points to some connection with the sun ;
for that luminary is supposed to be in-
habited by a crow. Hence a crow staring
at the sun is a subject frequently treated
by Japanese arti.sts.

The country is flat the whole of
the rest of the way to Yamada, the
well-cultivated plain to the 1. most-
ly appearing boundless, because
too level to allow of many glimpses
being caught of Owari Bay which
hes beyond. At

Rokken, also called Miwatari,
there is a cross-country road follow-
ed by pilgrims to Hase and the other
Holy Places of Yamato.

Matsuzaka(J/in, Kaishin). This
name should be familiar to all
Japanese scholars, as the birth-
place of Motoori (see p. 80). The
town is dominated by a hill called
Y'^oio-no-Mori, on which stand the re-
mains of the castle founded in 1584.
Below, at the entrance to the
grounds, is a little Shinto temple
dedicated to Motoori, called Y'^ama-
muro Jinja. The hne here aban-
dons the old pilgrim highway lead-
ing to Y'^amada through Saigu,

Saigu was in ancient days the abode of
the Imperial virgin princesses, who, until
the civil wars of the 14th century, succes-
sively held the office of high priestess of
the Sun-Goddess.

and goes south to the unimportant
stations of Tokuwa and Oka, before
turning east to Tamaru and Miyci-
ijawa, so called from a large river
which is there crossed.
Yamada (see next page).

30G

Route 32. — The Shrines of Ise.

3. — Fbom Naea to Yamada bt

THE KWANSAI AND SaKGU EaIL-
WAYS. TSXJKIGASK.

lii

Names

Remarks

42c::z;

Stations

NAEA

|m.

Daibutsa

Kamo Jet

Change cars

Kasagi

12S

Okawara

Shiiua-ga-hara

214

UENO

(Alight for Tsu-
1 kigase.

Saoiabu

j Change for
J Kusatsu on

30}

Tsuge Jet

Tokaido Rail-

36i

Kabuto

[ way.

39^

SeW

r Change for Ya-

KAMEYAMAJct.

} mada or Na-
( goya.

Twenty min. run through bare
sandy hills takes us to Kamo,
■which stands in an amphitheatre of
mountains. Into this the line at
once strikes, and follows up the i.
bank of the extremely narrow
"valley of the Eizu-gaica, the hill-
side having been cut down to make
room for the permanent way.
About Kasagi we pass through one
of the wildest and most picturesque
bits of any line in the country.
The fortress-like rocks of the
mountain of the same name, noted
in history as the scene of the
Emperor Go-Daigo's defeat (p. 72),
almost overhang and threaten to
fall upon the reals. The dwellings
perched on the side of the steep
hills on the opposite bank, and the
river flowing placidly below be-
tween "huge boulders, help to form
a scene like those often depicted in
Japanese art. Between Kasagi and
Okaicara we cross to the r. bank,
and the hills become less perpen-
dicular. The summit is marked by
two tunnels, whence down through
some cultivation to Shima-tja-hara.

Ueno (Inn, Tomo-chu) is the
capital of the tiny province of Iga.
4^ ri from this place by a good

jinrikisha road lies the vill. of
Tsukigase, famous for its
plum-trees which line the Kizu-
gawa for upwards of 2 miles. No
other place in Japan can boast such
a show of the pink and white
flowers of this fragiant tree, which
bloom in mid-March. Some rapids
form another attraction a little
lower down the stream.

From Tsuge a branch of the
Kwansai Eailway leads to Kusatsu
on the Tokaido Eailway, 22J m.,
affording the shortest route to
Ky5to for those coming from the
east. Note, however, that the two
lines do not work together so as to
facilitate connection.

Another piece of striking hiU
scenery is that between Tsuge and
Seki, where the gradient is steep
enough to make the assistance of
an extra engine necessary, although
three tunnels pierce the steepest
parts of the ascent. This is the
iSuzuka-idge. The long serrated
peaks to the r. near Seki are Shaku-
jo-ga-take and Kyo-ga-mine. At
Kameyama we change again, and
the rest of the joiurney hence to
Yamada coincides with that given
in the preceding section.

4. — Yamada and Neighbocbhood.

Temples op Ise. Peovince

OF Shima.

Yamada (Inns, Uni-kwan or
Yamada Hotel, with Europ. beds
and food, 10 min. from station ;
*Abui"a-ya; *Goni-kwan atFuruichi)
is a straggling town formed by the
amalgamation of several smaller
ones, — Yamada proper, Uji, Furu-
ichi, etc. It lives by and for the Ise
pilgrims, as does the railway which
makes special terms for bands
ranging from ten to three hundred,
and allows them to break the
journey in order to worship at
the minor shrines on the way.
The inns and tea-houses of \''ama-
da are very lively, especially at
night. At some of them a cele-
brated dance is performed, called

Yamada. The Ise Pilgrimage.

307

the Ise Ondo. This dance pos-
sesses much grace, added to the
interest of a considerable antiquity.
Unfortunately, however, it is gener-
ally to be witnessed only at houses
of a doubtful character. A religious
dance called Kagura is executed at
the temples for such pilgrims as
choose to pay for it. It is divided
into three grades, called "Small,"
"Great," and "Extra Great" {Sho.
Dai, Dai-dai). The charges for
these various dances are (1900) as
follows : —

Ise Ondo 3J yen

Sho Kagura 5 „

Dai Kagura 10 „

Dai-dai Kagura 20 „

Among the peep-shows and
booths in which the main street of
Yamada abounds, are some devoted
to yet another kind of dance, which
may be seen for a cent or two. It
is called 0 Sugi 0 Tama. The fun
consists in the spectators flinging
coppers at the faces of the girls who
form the little orchestra, and who
are trained to such sldll in " duck-
ing," that it is said they are never
hit. The chief objects for sale at
Yamada, besides holy pictiares and
medals and other articles of Shinto
devotion, are ornamental tobacco-
pouches made of a peculiar sort of
oil-paper. A large number of shops
have Ufe-size figures of gods,
goblins, etc., which serve as
advertisements.

The best way to see the sights of
Yamada and neighbourhood is to
go the following round, which takes
a day by jinrikislia to do comfort-
ably :— fiom the inn to the Geku
Temple, Futami, Toba (for the
view from Hiyori-yama), the Naikii
Temple, and back to the inn . The
road is mostly excellent and quite
level, except between Futami and
Toba. One may conveniently
lunch either at Futauii or at Toba.
In addition to this round, or in Ueu
of Toba, good pedestrians are advis-
ed to climb Asama-yama (see p.
133).

It may be mentioned that
local Japanese parlance indicates
respect for the great temples by
suffixing the word San, " Mr." to
their names, — thus Naiku San,
Geku San, pronounced Naixan,
Gexan.

Thousands of pilgrims resort annually
to the temples of Ise. {Ise Daijingu)
chiefly in winter and spring, when the
country-folk have more leisure than at
other seasons. The rationalistic educated
classes of course take little part in such
doings ; but even at the present day the
majority of artisans in Tokyo, and still
more in Kyoto and Osaka, believe that
they may find difQculty in gaining a
livelihood unless they invoke the protec-
tion of the tutelary goddesses of Ise by
performing the pilgrimage at least once
in their lives, and the peasants are even
more devout believers. In former times
it was not uncommon for the little shop-
boya of Yedo to abscond for a while from
their employers, and to wander along the
TOkaido as far as Ise, subsisting on the
alms which they begged from travellers ;
and having obtained the bundle of
charms, consisting of bits of the wood of
which the temples are built, they made
their way home in the same manner.
This surreptitious method of performing
the pilgrimage was called nuke-mairi, and
custom forbade even the sternest parent
or master from finding any fault with the
young devotee who bad been so far for so
pious a purpose. Stories are even told of
dogs having performed the pilgrimage by
themselves. Those whose residence is
Kyoto are met by their friends at the
suburb of Keage on their return home.
The custom is for these friends— mostly
females — to ride out singing the tune of
the Ise Ondo dance, three persons being
seated on each horse, one in the middle,
and one on either side in a sort of wooden
hod or basket. High revel is held at the
tea-houses with which Keage abounds.
This custom is termed saha-mukai. The
Ise pilgrims may be distinguished by
their gala dress, and by the large bun-
dles of charms wrapped in oil-paper or
placed in an oblong varnished box, which
they carry suspended from their necks by
a string.

The special character of sanctity attach-
ing to the Ise temples arises partly from
their extreme antiquity, partly from the
pre-eminence of the goddesses to whom
they are dedicated. The Naiku, lit.
"Inner Temple," is believed by the Japa-
nese to date from the year -t B. C, and is
sacred to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu or
Tenshoko Daijin. ancestress of the Mi-
kados. Down to the 14th century, some
virgin Princess of the Imperial family
was always entrusted with the care of the

308

Boute 32. — The Shrines of Ise.

mirror which is the Sun-Goddess's em-
blem, and of which some Japanese writers
speak as if it were itself a deity, while
others take it to be inerel\ the image
of the goddess. It is kept in a box of
chamaecyparis wood, which rests on a low
stand covered with a piece of white silk.
The mirror itself is wrapped in a bag of
brocade, which is never opened or re-
newed ; but when it begins to fall to
pieces from age, another bag is put on,
so that the actual covering consists of
many layers. Over the whole is placed a
sort of wooden cage with ornaments said
to be of pure gold, over which again is
thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to
the floor on all sides. The coverings of
the box are all that can be seen, when the
doors areopened at the various festivals.
The Geku or ' Outer Temple," so-called
because of its slightly inferior sanctity, is
now dedicated to the Goddess of Food,
Toyo-uke-bime-uo-Kami, also called TJke-
mochi-no-Kami, but was in earlier times
under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi-
no-Mikoto, a god whose name sisuifles
literally " His Augustness the Earthly
Eternally Standing One." In either case,
this temple may be considered as sacred
to the wor.^hip of a deification of the
earth, while the Xaiku is dedicated to a
deification of the svm, the great ruler of
heaven. The native authorities do not
inform us of the character of the emblem
by which the Earth-Goddess is represent-
ed. As in the case of other Shinto tem-
ples, so here also at Ise many secondary
deities {ai-dono) are invoked. Those of
the yaiku are Tajikarao-no-Kami, lit.
" the Strong-Handed-Male-Deity," who
pulled the Sun-Goddess out of the cave
to which she had retired to avoid her
brother's ill-usage, and a goddess who was
one of the forebears of the Imperial line.
The secondary deities of the Gekii are
Ninigi-no-Mikoto, gr.iudson to the Sun-
goddess and ancestor of the Imperial line,
and two of the gods who attended him on
the occasion of his descent from heaven
to earth.

The architecture seen at Ise is believed
to represent the purest and most archaic
Japanese style, — the old native hut, in
fact, before the introduction of Chinese
models. A very ancient rule directs
that the two great Ise temples, as also
every minor edifice connected with them,
shall be razed to the ground and recon-
structed every twenty years in exactly
the same style, down to the minutest
detail. For this purpose there are, both
at the Xaiku and at the Geku, two closely
adjacent sites. The construction of the
new temples is commenced on the vacant
sites towards the end of the period of
twenty years ; and when they are finish-
ed, the ceremony of Sengyo, or " Trans-
ference," takes place, the sacred emblems
being then solemnly and amidst a great
concourse of pilgrims removed to the new

buildings from the old. These are forth-
with pulled down and cut up into myri-
ads ot charms (o harai], which are sold to
pilgrims. The general renovation last
took place in October 1889 when 300,000
yen were set apart out of the national
revenue for the purpose ; but the Chief
Shrine at the Naikii dates from 1900, the
former building having been pulled down
because the pumping of some water on
its roof during an alarm of fire in 1898
was regarded as a desecration of its sanc-
tity. The immemorial antiquity of the
Ise temples is therefore only the an-
tiquity of a continuous tradition, not
that of the actual edifices. It is probable,
however, that at no time for many cen-
turies past could Ise have been seen to
such advantage as at present, when the
minute and enthusiastic researches of
four generations of scholars of the "Shin-
to Revival" school into tbe religious
archaeology of their nation have at last
met with official encouragement, and the
priests have been endowed with the pecu-
niary means to realise their dream of
restoring the Japan of to-day to the reli-
gious practices, architecture, and ritual
of pristine ages unsullied by the foreign
influence of Buddhism.

Closely connected with the great Jse
Shrines are two smaller ones, the Izogu, at
Isobe on the frontier of Ise and Shima,
some 4 or .5 ri beyond Toba, and the
Takihara GTi at Nojiri in Ise. The sacred-
ness of these places is traced to the fact
that they were in turn the temporary
headquarters of the cult of the Sun-God-
dess before it was fixeddeflnitively in its
present site. The Izogu scarcely deserves
a visit. The Takihara Gu is described
near the end of Route 38.

The Geku Temple. The ap-
proach is pretty. A Shin-en, lit.
'• Divine Park," containing a
circular pond, has replaced the
houses and fields that covered this
place previous to 1889 ; and beyond
rises a hiU finely timbered with
cryptomerias, huge camphor-trees,
maples, keyaki, and the sacred
though not imposing ma-sakaki
{Cleyera japonica). The main en-
trance is by the Ichi no Torii, or
First Gateway, to whose r. is the
Sanshusho, Ut. "Place of Assem-
bly," where members of the
Imperial family change their gar-
ments pre^sious to worshipping in
the temple. A broad road leads
hence through the trees to the
temple. A short way up it is the
Ni no Torii, or " Second Gateway,"

The Geku Temple.

309

near "which stands a shop for the
sale of pieces of the wood used in
the construction of the temple,
packets of rice that have been
offered to the gods, and ofuda, or
paper charms, inscribed with the
name of the Goddess of Food.
Next door is a building where the
kagura dances are performed at the
request of pious pUgrims, and
where the food offerings are sold
for a few sen a meal. Beyond these
buildings, we soon reach the enclo-
sure containing the Geku, or actual
temple, concealed for the most part
behind a succession of fences. The
outer fence, called Itagaki, is built
of cryptomeria wood, neatly planed
and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in
width at the front, and 335 ft. in
the rear ; the E. side is 247 ft., the
W. side 235 ft. long, so that the
shape is that of an irregular oblong,
the formation of the ground rather
than any necessary relation of
numbers ha^^ing determined the
proportions. The temple on the
alternative site, which was hewn
down in 1889, had its long side E.
and W., and the short N. and S.
A little to one side of the middle
of the front face is the principal en-
trance, formed of a torii similar to
those already passed, but of small-
er dimensions. The screen opposite
is called JBampei. There are three
other entraces in the Ita-gaki,
formed each by a torii, one on each
side and one at the back, belonging
to the Mike-den, where the food
offerings are set out twice daily.
The S. torii gives access to a small
court, of which a thatched gateway
ordinarily closed by a white curtain
forms the further side, while the
ends are formed by the Ita-gaki.
On the r. hand is a gate-keeper's
lodge. Unless the pilgrim be an
Imperial personage, he is prevented
by the curtain from seeing much
further into the interior.

The curtain here mentioned has a
melancholy historical interest. Viscount
Mori, Japanese Representative, first at
"WashingtoD and then in London, after-

wards Minister of Education and one of
the foremost leaders of modem Japanese
Ijrogress, was assassinated by a Shinto
fanatic for having, when on a visit to Ise,
lifted this curtain with his walking-stick
in order to obtain a better view of the
interior of the temple court. The murder
did not take place at cmce, but some
months later, on the 11th February, 1889,
as Mori was donning his gala uniform for
the ceremony of the promulgation of the
Japanese Constitution. The assassin, one
Nishino Buutaro, was immediately cut
down by the Minister's attendants : but
by an obliquity of judgment curiously
common in Japan, popular sympathy
ranged itself so markedly on his side as
against his unfortunate victim, that pil-
grimages were made to his grave in the
Yanaka cemetery at Tokyo, hundreds of
wreaths and sticks of incense were placed
upon it, and odes composed in the as-
sassin's honour. The popular infatuation
even went so far that it was, and perhaps
still is, believed by many that Nishino
Buntaro's intercession with heaven will
ensure the fulfilment of any desire offered
up to the gods through him.

The thatched gateway above-men-
tioned is the principal opening in a
second fence called the Ara-gaki,
composed of cryptomeria trunks
alternately long and short, placed
at intervals of about 2J ft., with
two horizontal railings, one run-
ning along the top, the other along
the centre. The distance of this
fence from the outer enclosure
varies from 10 ft. to 36 ft. on
different sides of the square.
Besides the torii on the S., there
are three others, one on each side,
corresponding to the other three
main entrances of the boarded
enclosure. These are unusual in
style, being closed with solid gates,
an arrangement rarely seen in
Shinto temples. Inside the thatch-
ed gateway is a shed 40 ft. by 20 ft.,
called the SJiijo-den, a restoration
of one of three bitildings anciently
called Naorai-dono, which were set
apart for the entertainment of the
envoys sent by the Mikado after
the celebration of the Kan-navne
Matsuri, or "Festival of Divine
Tasting " (see p. 3). Just inside a
small torii are the Ishi-isuho, —
spaces marked out by larger stones,
r. for the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the

The Geku Temple.

311

priests of the temple. At a distance
of 33 yds. from the first thatched
gateway is a second, which gives
access to a third court, surrounded
by a palisade called the Tama-cjaki,
formed of planks about 8 ft. high,
placed close together. Just within
this court is a small wooden gate-
way, immediately beyond which is
a thatched gateway, forming the
entrance to the central enclosure.
This enclosure is surrounded by a
wooden palisade called Mizu-gaki,
and is almost a perfect square, be-
ing 134 ft. by 131 ft. At the back
of it is the Shoden or shrine, on the
r. and 1. of the entrance to which
are the treasuries (Hoden).

The shrine is 34 ft. in length by
19 ft. in width. Its floor, raised
about 6 ft. from the ground, is
supported on wooden posts planted
in the earth. A balcony 3 ft. wide,
which is approached by a flight of
nine steps 15 ft. in width, runs
right round the building, and car-
ries a low balustrade, the tops of
whose posts are cut into the shape
called hoshu no iama, which,
strangely enough, is a Buddhist
ornament, the so-called " Precious
Jewel of Omnipotence." The steps,
balustrade, and doors are profusely
overlaid with brass plates ; and the
external ridge-pole, cross-trees, and
projecting rafters are also adorned
with the same metal. A covered
way leads from the inner gate up
to the steps of the shrine. The
two treasuries are raised on short
legs or stands, after the fashion of
the store-houses of the Luchuans.
They are said to contain precious
silken stuffs, raw silk presented by
the province of Mikawa, and trap-

pings for the sacred horses. Be-
tween the Ita-qaki and the Arct-
gaki stands the Heihaku-den, in-
tended to contain the offerings
called gohei. Another building in
the enclosure is the Mike-den,
where the water and the food
offered up to the gods of both the
Geku and Naiku are daily set forth,
in winter at 1) A.M. and 4 P.M., in
summer at 8 A.M. and 3 P.M.

Up to A.D. 729, the food ofFerini.fs for
the Naiku, having first been prepared at
the Geku. were conveyed to the former
temple, there to be set out. In that year,
as this ceremony was being performed,
the oflerings were unwittingly carried
past some unclean object which happen-
ed to be on the road. The consequence
was that the Mikado fell sick, and the
diviners attributed hia Kickness to the
anger of the Sun-Goddess. Since that
time the oflerings for both temples have
been set out only at the Geku.

The offerings made to each of the
principal deities consist of four cups
of water, sixteen saucers of lice,
and four of salt, besides fish, birds,
fruits, seaweed, and vegetables.
The offerings to each lesser deity
are the same, except that only half
the quantity of fruit is provided.

The chief festivals are the " Fray-
ing for Harvest" (Kinen-sai), 17th
February ; " Presentation of Cloth-
ing" [Onzo-sai), 14th May and
October ; " Monthly Festival "
( Tsnki-nami no raatsuri), 17th June
and 17th December ; " Divine Tast-
ing" (Kaji-name), 17th October;
" Harvest Festival" {Shinjo-sai), 23rd
November. Besides these, a " Great
Purification" {0-barai) is jjerform-
ed on the last day of each month,
more particularly in June and
December, and also before each of

Index to Plan of Ise Temple.

1. Bampei (screen).

2. lia-gaki (1st fence).

3. Ara-gaki (2nd fence).

4. Tama-gaki (3rd fence).

5. Mizu-gaki (4th fence).

6. Gate-keeper's Lodge.

7. Shijo-den.

S I

q' > Hoden, (treasuries).

10. ^hoden (chief shrine).

11. Mike-den (temple for

offerings).

food

312

Route 32. — The Shrines of he.

the above-named grand festivals.
The dates given are those of the
celebration at the Isaiku. The
ceremonies are repeated at the
Qdcu on the following day, at the
Izogu on the third day, and at the
Takahara Gu on the fourth; but
the Imperial envoy, who represents
the Mikado at the two former
shrines, does not visit the two
latter.

On the side of a low hill to the S.
of the chief temple buildings, stand
two much smaller shrines. That to
the 1. is known as Kaze-no-miya,
that to the r. as Tsuchi-no^miya.
Higher up the same hill is the
Taga-no-miya.

After thus seeing as much as is
permitted to be seen of the Geku,
we re-enter our jiniildshas and
speed along an excellent level road
to Futami, a distance of 2 ri 10 cho.
Several villages are passed, of which
Kawasaki and Kui'ose are the lar-
gest, and an unusually long bridge
called the Shio-ai no Hashi, span-
ning the estuary of the Isuzu-gawa.
There are constant delightful views
of a mountain range to the r., of
which Asama-yama is the most
conspicuous summit.

Futami [Inn, Kaisiu-ro, with
sea-bathing) is considered by the
Japanese to be one of the most
picturesque places on their coast,
and few art motives are more popu-
lar than the Mybto-seki, or " Wife
and Husband Rocks," — two rocks
close to the shore, tied together by
a straw rope.

In this case the straw rope (.^himc) pro-
bably symbolises conjugal union. There
is, however, a legend to the ell'ect that
the god Susa-no-o, in return for hospitali-
ty received, instructed a poor villager of
this place how to protect his house from
future visitations of the Plague-God by
fastening such a rope across the entrance.
A tiny shrine called Somin shozai no
Yashiio commemorates the legend. The
custom of warding off Infectious disease
by suspending a straw ropie across the
highway is common throughout the
country.

The view of islets and bays
stretching away eastwards is cer-

tainly very pretty, even distant Fuji
being occasionally visible ; and the
metamorphic slate rocks are such
as Japanese esthetes pri2;e highly
for their gardens. It may never-
theless be doubted whether Eui'o-
peans would single out Futami for
particular praise from among the
countless lovely scenes in Japan,
especially in a neighbourhood
boasting the glorious views from
Hiyori - yama and Asama - yama.
The buUding beyond the Futami
inn is the Rinjitsu-kwan, erected in
1886 for the late Empress Dowager,
who was a great traveller. The way
from Futami to Toba (2 ri 9 chb) is
rather hiUy, but pretty, especially
near the Ike-no-itra, a many-branch-
ing inlet of the sea.

Toba (Inn, Osaka-ya) is a sleepy
Kttle town, enlivened only by the
visits of coasting steamers ; and the
private Dockyard (Tekkosho), es-
tablished there some years ago, has
not proved a success. But the top
of H'lyori-yama, only 3 cho from the
inn, alf ords a view which is a perfect
dream of beauty. It includes Fuji,
Haku-san, and most of the moun-
tains mentioned on the next
page as visible from Asama-
yama. But its special loveliness
is the foreground, — a labyrinth of
islets and peninsulas and green
hills, and the blue sea studded with
the white sails of junks, while other
junks lie at anchor in Toba harbotir.
The hill rising conspicuously in the
middle of the town was the site of
the castle of the former Daimyo.

[From Toba, roads lead round
and across the Province of
Sh.ima into Kishu. Steamers
also call in at Maioya and
Uamajima on their way west-
wards. Shima resembles Kishu.
in its general features, but is
less well-worth visiting. The
reader is accordingly referred
to Route 38.]

The little province of Shima has
been celebrated from the earliest
antiquity for its female divers (aj/ia),
pictures of whom — bare to the waist

Province of Shima. Asama-yama. Tlie Naiku. 313

and with a red nether gariiieut —
may often be seen. They fish up
awabi (sea-ears) and tenyiisa, a kind
of sea-weed (GeJidiwrn corneum) which
is used to make a delicious jelly
called tokoro-ien. So hardy are they,
that they will ^o on diving; even when
on the eve of childbirth : but they age
quickly and become repulsively ugly,
with coarse tanned skins and hair
that turns reddish from constant
wetting, and is apt to fall off in
patches. The women of Shima not
only dive ; they also do most of the
field- work. In fact they support their
fathers, brothers, and husbands,
who loll about, smoke, play chess, and
are, in a word, the weaker vessels,
Few girls get married who are not ex-
pert.divers, nor do they marry very
early in most cases, being too valu-
able to their parents as bread-winners.
Even the wife of a man in easy
circumstances — a village elder, for
instance — is forced by public opinion
to gain her livelihood aquatically.
The best places at which to see the
diving are Tbshimura, a vill. on one
of the large islands opi^osite Toba,
Kamishima, an island beyond Toshi-
jima, and Koka near Matoya.]

No pedestrian, even if he has
seen the view from Hiyori-yama,
should miss that from Asama-yama.

This name, which is written with the
characters m M, has nothing to do with the
Asama of Shinshii, which is written i% Rfl.

The way back from Toba and
Futami skirts its base ; and as jin-
rikishas can be availed of to a spot
within 2'2 cho of the top, the best
plan is to take them so far and
either return again the same way,
or, better still, send them round to
wait at the Naiku Temple, which
latter plan gives one a capital
4 or 5 m. walk down the gradual
incline of the other slope of the
mountain. The celebrated view is
obtained from a spot 1,300 ft. above
the sea, where there is a tea-house
called Tofu-ya. A curious fact is
that one of the widest mountain
panoramas in Japan is obtained
in spite of the circumstance that
barely half the horizon lies open
to view. Below in the foreground is
Owari Bay, looking like a lake, while
in the distance beyond it stretches
a long series of monntains, — Puta-

go-yama on the Hakone pass, Fuji,
Yatsu-ga-take, Akiha-san, the vol-
cano of Asama, Koma-ga-take,
Tateyama in Etchu, Ontake, Nori-
kura in Hida, Haku-san. Abura-zaka
in Echizen, Ibuki-yama in Omi,
Tado-san, Mitsugo-yama, Suzuka-
yama, and Nunoi)iki-yama on the
W. frontier of Ise.

[Though one must return to the
Tofu-ya tea-house in order to
get home, it is worth walking
on 10 cho to the Oku-no-in of
this holy mountain for the
curious view which it affords of
the green-blue jumble of dense-
ly wooded hills that form the
province of Shima and eastern
liishti. On the way one passes
several little Buddhist shrines,
and — piquant contrast ! — the
headquarters of a favourite old
quack medicine, the Mother
Seigel of Japan. Mankintan—
for so this medicament styles
itself — brings thousands of
dollars yearly into the jjockets
of the people of Yamada, where
there are scores of agencies for
its sale. The Oku-no-in, which
is dedicated to Kokuzo Bosatsu,
was formerly a gem, but is now
much decayed.]

The views on the way down
Asama-yama are delightfid. At
length one plunges into a sort of
cauldron, where stand the \ill. of
Uji and the Naiku Temple, em-
bosomed in an antique grove of
cryptomerias, camphor-trees, and
other magnificent timber, which in
itself is worth coming a long way
to see.

The camplior-trct's have railings round
them, ti) prevent people from peeling oft
the bark and making charms of it. The
ethcacy of these charms is specially be-
lieved in by sailors, who throw them into
the sea to calm the waves. In Japan, as
elsewhere, the dangers of a sea life ap-
pear to foster superstition. Some of the
most celebrated shrines — Kompira, for
instance (see lite. 47) — depend greatly
upon seafaring men for their support.
The huge gun in the grounds was taken
from the defences of Wei-hai-wei.

314

Route 33. — Kobe and Neighbourhood.

After passing the second torii, one
sees r. the little river Isuzti, where
the pUgrims purify themselves be-
fore worship by washing their hands
and mouth. Being dedicated to
the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, the
Naikii is of even superior sanctity
to the Geku, and is constructed on a
somewhat larger scale. But as the
arrangement of the temple grounds
and enclosed buildings closely re-
sembles that of the Geku already
described in detail, no partictilars
will be needed except the measiure-
ments. The outer enclosure is 195
ft. in front, 202 ft. at the back, and
369 ft. at the side. The innermost
enclosure (Mizu-gaki) measures 149
ft. in front, 150 ft. at the back, and
144 ft. on each side. The bare oj)en
space adjoining the temple is the
alternative site, which will be used
to build on in the year 1909, when
the present buildings are pulled
down.

ROUTE 33.

Kobe and Neighboitrhood.

Kobe. Hyooo. Walks and Ex-
cdksions : nxjnobiki waterfalls.

MAYA-SAN (the MOON TEMPLE).

fdtatabi-san. mino. nakayama-
dera. takaeazuka. hibano.
akima. suma, matko, etc., on
the sanyo railway. himeji.

Kobe.

Hotel. — Oriental Hotel.

Japanese Inns. — Hana-ya, Goto.
Tea-house for entertainments in
Japanese style, Tokiwa.

Consulates. — British and German
on the Bund ; American, No. 15,
Settlement ; French, No. 90.

Banks. — Hongkong and Shang-
hai Bank, No. 2, Bund ; Chartered
Bank of India, Australia and
China, No. 2G.

Churches. — Union Protestant
Church (Anglican and Congrega-
tional services). No. 48 ; Roman
Catholic, No. 37.

Curio-dealers. — Museum of Arts
and Manufactures, No. 34 A, Settle-
ment (a foreign store). Kuhn and
Komor, No. 81.

Native Ourio-shops. — Echigo-ya,
Hamada's Fine Art Depot, and
others in Moto-machi ; Ohashi, for
modern art products, at end of
Division Street near railway sta-
tion.

Bamboo-work. — Iwamoto, near
the Nanko temple.

Photographers. — Ichida, in. Moto-
machi ; Shin-e-do.

Newspapers. — " Kobe Chronicle "
and " Kobe Herald," daily.

Steamer Agencies. — Peninsular'
and Oriental Co., No. 109; Mes-
sageries Maritimes, No. 5 ; Nord-
deutscher Lloyd, No. 10 ; Canadian
Pacific, No. 14 ; Occidental and
Oriental, and Pacific Mail Co., No.
87 ; Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, No. 2,
Native Bund. Kobe is also the
chief port of call for the numerous
small steamers that ply on the
coast of the Inland Sea.

The Kobe Club and the Recrea-
tion Ground for cricket, base-ball,
lawn-tennis, etc., are at the E. end
of the Settlement.

Theatres. — Daikoku-za, at Nanko-
mae in the Japanese town. There
is also one at Hyogo, called Ben-
ten-za.

The Post and Telegraph Office
and the terminus (Kobe station) of
the Tokaidd Railway from Yoko-
hama to Kobe are in the native
town, at the W. end of Sakae-
machi. The station nearest to the
Settlement for travellers to Osaka,
Kyoto, and Yokohama is San-no-
miya, 5 min. from the landing-
place, following Division Street.
Kobe Station is also the terminus
of the Sanyo line running down the
shore of the Inland Sea ; and travel-
lers in that direction should, in order
to avoid delay, start from Kobe
station, not from San-no-miya.

TOYODO tNGRAVlNQ OFFICE TOKYO .

Hydgo.

315

The pretty basket-work sold at
Kobe is made at Arima (see p. 317).
The " Kobe beef ", celebrated all
over the Far East, comes mostly
from the province of Tajima to
the N. W.

Kobe, whose exports and imports now
exceed those of any other place in the
Empire, was founded as a foreign settle-
ment in 1868. Previous to that time, the
native trade had been cariied on at the
neighbourinf! port of Hyogo. Owing to
the increase in population and prosperity
of the port, K61)e is rapidly extending
up the hill at the back.

Kobe is the favourite port in
Japan, owing to the pnrity and
dryness of its air, and its nearness
to many places of beauty and
interest, such as Kyoto, Lake Biwa,
Nara, and the Inland Sea.

Hyogo.

Hyogo {Inn and resit., Tokiwa),
a large town giving its name to the
prefecture, adjoins Kobe on the S. W.
It begins just beyond the Minato-
gawa, which is easily distinguished
by the lofty pine-trees lining its
banks. The bed of this river, like
many others along the coast, is
raised to a considerable height
above the sunrounding country,
owing to the masses of sand and
pebbles continually swept down
from the neighbouring hills. It
is generally dry, except immediate-
ly after heavy rain. The banks
have been neatly laid out so as to
form a promenade, which leads to
the Shinto temple erected since the
Kestoration of 1868 to the memory
of the loyal warrior Kusunoki
Masashige.

Hyogo, under the earlier name of Buko,
had existed as a port from very ancient
days. It rose into prominence in the
latter part of the 12th century, when
Kiyomori removed the capital from Kyoto
to Fukuwara in the immediate vicinity.
This change of caisital only lasted six
months— from the 28th June, 118U, to the
20th December of the same year ; but
Kiyomori's partiality for the place left
permanent eflects, he having diverted the
bed of the Minato-gawa to its present
course so aa to prevent it from flooding

the town, and having constnicted the
artificial island of Tsukijinia which sub-
sists to this day. The stony bed of the
Minato-gawa was the scene, in .\.D. 1336,
of a bloody battle between the partisans
of the rightful Emperor Go-Daipo, and
Takauji founder of the Ashikaga line of
Shoguns. In this battle the famous loyal
warriors JJitta Yoshisada and Kusunoki
Masashige suffered a crushing defeat,
after which Masashige, rather than fly,
committed harakiri.

Hyogo's chief sight is the Daihu-
tsu, or great bronze Buddha, erected
in 1891 in the precincts of the
temple of Nofukuji. It is 48 ft.
high, and 85 ft. round the waist ;
length of face. 8J ft.; eye, 3 ft.; ear,
G ft,; nose, 3^ ft.; mouth, 2A ft.;
diameter of lap, 25 ft.; and circum-
ference of thumb, 2 ft. This large
work owed its inception to the
zeal of a paper manufacturer of
Hyogo, named Nanjo Sh5bei.
Though by no means equal to the
ancient Daibutsu at Kamakura,
the face is better than that of the
Nara Daibutsu. The visitor is
taken into the interior of the image,
where is an altar to Amida, besides
a number of lesser images (four of
which are by Unkei, viz. those of
Kash5, Anan, an elephant, and a
lion), bells, tokko, wheels of the
law, etc. The naked infant is what
is called a Tanjo-Shaka (see p. 54).
The numerous mirrors hung up
here are gifts fi-om the faithful.
When sufficient funds shall have
been collected, a five-storied pago-
da is to be erected on an adjacent
plot of ground.

Not far from N5fukuji stands
another Buddhist temple, called
Shinkoji, with a bronze image of
Amida, which, though much smaller
than the Daibutsu, is a remarkable
work of art. It is, moreover, prettily
set on a large stone pedestal in
front of a lotus pond, so that the
effect is charming when those
flowers are in bloom. The temple
itself is plain, but well-preserved.
On the opposite side of the road is
a stone Monument to Kiyomori, in
the shape of a small thirteen-storied
pagoda. About 10 min. further on

316

Roule 33. — Kobe and Neighbourhood.

is Wada no Mlsakl, a point of land
■which juts out into the sea and is
a favourite pleasure resort of the
citizens, on account of the view,
the finest in the whole neighbour-
hood. A trifle wiU enable the visitor
to enter the gi-ounds of the Wa-
raku-en, where are tea-houses, fish-
ponds, flower-shows from time to
time, and a two-storied edifice,
from whose roof a good view may
be enjoyed. The high land seen
ahead is that separating the
provinces of Izumi and Kishu. The
large island of Awaji Ues to the r.,
divided from tlie mainland by
Aiashi Strait. The low round
tower in front of the Waraku-en is
the remnant of an ancient fort.
The large Shinto temple passed
both in going from Kiyomori's
monument to Wada-no-3*Iisald, and
also on the way back thence to
K5be, is called Wada no Jlyojin.
A short morning will suffice for the
sights- of Hyogo, if done in jinriM-
sha.

"Walks and Excuesions from
Kobe.

The neighboiurhood of Kobe
abounds in pretty walks and picnic
resorts, of which the following are
the chief.

1. Ikuta. The Shinto temple of
Ikuta stands in a wood of cryp-
tomerias and camphor-trees, .5 min.
walk behind the Foreign Settle-
ment. The deity worshipped here
is Waka-hirume-no-Mikoto, who
might perhaps be styled the Japa-
nese Minerva, as she is supposed
to have taught the use of the
loom and to have introduced cloth-
ing.

The temple is said to have been found-
ed by the Empress Jingo on her return
from her famous expedition against
Korea, in honour of this goddess whom
she had adopted as the patroness of her
enterprise, and to whom she ascribed the
victory gained by her arms. Hideyoshi.
■when despatching his expedition to Korea
in the 16th century, caused prayers to be
oftered up at the shrine of this goddess.
Prayers to her in seasons of drought or

of excessive rain are said to be invariably
answered. Festival, 3rd April. AnnufJ
fair, 23rd to 27th September.

2. The Nunobiki Waterfalls
are about 20 min. from the Settle-
ment. The path first reaches the
2Ien-(laki, or " Female Fall," 43 ft.
high ; then passing through a tea-
house and over a covered bridge,
it climbs to other tea-houses
commanding a view of the upper,
or "Male FaU" (On-daki), 82 ft.
high. Paths lead down to the
bottom of each fall, and it is
possible to bathe at certain hours
of the morning. Large monkeys
are occasionally seen in this neigh-
bourhood. Ladies are advised only
to visit Nunobiki under the escort
of gentlemen, as the tea-houses are
apt to be noisy. A good view of
Kobe and the surrounding coimtry
may be had from Sunar/o-yama, a
detached hill near the fall. There
is a tea-house at the top.

3. Suwa-yama, 1 mile. This
spiu' of the range behind Kobe,
crowned by tea-houses where min-
eral baths may be taken, commands
an extensive view of the town and
sea-shore.

4. Maya-san is the name of one
of the highest peaks (2,446 ft.) of
the range Ijehind Kobe. The sum-
mit, a httle over 4^ m. from Kobe,
is about 2 hrs. walk fi-om the
Settlement, return lA hr. This
place is known to foreigners as the
Moon Temple, — a purely fanciful
designation, as the place has no
connection with the moon, but is
dedicated to Maya Bimin, the
mother of Buddha. The temple
stands on a platform at the top of
a stone staircase, about 400 ft.
below the top of the mountain,
which is reached by passing through
a door to the 1. of the shrine at the
back, before ascentiing. The temple
contains a small image of Maya
Bunin, one of two made by order
of Wu Ti of the Liang dynasty (a.d.
502-529), with the object of dimin-
ishing the mortality of women in
chiklbirth, which was very great

Walkh- and Excursions.

317

during his reign. It was acquired
by Kobo Daisbi when studying in
China. The 7th day of the 7th
moon, old style, is the great annual
festival here. Those who make
the ascent on that day obtain as
much merit as if they had ascend-
ed eighteen thousand times.

5. Futatabi-san, 3 miles dis-
tant, is a temple dedicated to Kob5
Daishi, which stands on a conical
eminence 1,600 ft. high, behind the
first range of hills to the N. of
Kobe. It is accessible either by
a stiff chmb of 1 hr. through a pass
properly called Kuruma-daui, bitt
known to the foreign residents as
"Hunter's Gap," at the foot of
which is a small sjjring containing
sulphur ; or by a more roundabout
but less steep ascent entering a
valley to the W. of 8uwa-yama. The
view from the top is fine, the out-
look to the N. offering a bird's-eye
view of the lake and bare weather-
worn hills known to foreigners as
" Aden," which locality the prospect
somewhat resembles. The Japa-
nese name is Shari-ynma. In the
autumn, the colouring of the foliage
on Futatabi is particularly fine.
Near the summit, on the r. hand
going up, is the Kame-ishi, a rock
the top of which is roughly fashion-
ed into the head and fore-legs of a
tortoise {kame).

The railway now affords facilities
for making a number of more dis-
tant excursions. Such are those to

6. Mino, which is reached by
rail from Kanzaki Junction, f hr.,
whence branch line to Ikeda, about
J hr., and aboiit 1 hr. more by
jinrikisha. The jinrildshas must
be left at the entrance of the
village. Shortly beyond, the path
enters a beautiful glen some 2 m.
in length, terminated abruptly by a
tall cliff over which falls a cascade
70 ft. high. The best time to visit
Mino is in November, when the
maple-trees glow with an almost
incredible blaze of colour. It is
also very pretty in April, with the

blossom of the cherry-trees. Some
way up the glen, on the r., stands
a temple with a little pavihon over-
looking the stream, — a favourite
spot for picnics.

7. Nakayain a-d era (Inn,
Mshiki-no-B6), the twenty-fourth
of the Thirty-three Holy Places of
Kwannon, and known to foreign
residents as the "Fish Temple,"
possesses a charming view and
mineral springs. It is reached by
taking rail to Kanzaki Junction as
above, whence branch line to
Nakayama, ^- hr. more. — In the
same direction, 8 min. further
along the line. Lies Takarazuka
(Europ. Hotel, 5 eho from station,
across river), noted for its two
mineral springs, — " Tansan " (a
good drinking water), and " Niwo "
(salt, ferruginous, and aperient, and
also heated for bathing). Hirano
is situated about 3. m. from the
station of Ikeda on the same Line,
about J- hr. run fi'om Kanzaki, the
way leading by a pretty gorge
through which dashes a stream
called Tsuzumi -ga- taki. The
mineral spring of Hirano is the
Apollinaris of Japan. — About 2 ri
to the N.E. of Hirano rises Mybken-
yama, 3,000 ft., — with a good sea
view. It is a resort of Japanese
suffering fi-om opthalmia.

8. Kabuto-yama (1,020 ft.),
called by the foreign residents Bis-
marck Hill, from the resemblance of
the four trees on its summit to the
four hairs which the great chan-
cellor is said to have had on his
head, lies 1^- hr. on foot to the N. of
Nishi-no-miya station. Cimous
stone images and shrines are here
to be seen perched on apparently
inaccessible pinnacles. The climb,
easy as far as the temple of Ha-
chiman, is stiff from there to the
summit ; but the view is magnifi-
cent, this hill being a landmark for
the whole country-side and for ships
navigating up the Kii Channel.

9. Arima, also called Yuyama
(Inns, Sugimoto-ya, Masuda-ya,
with Enrop. food and beds), a

318

Route 33, — JiTobe and Neighbourhood.

favourite summer resort, lies 9 m.
from K5be as the crow flies, and is
1,400 ft. above sea-level. The air
is cool, the scenery pretty enough,
though not remarkable, and
pleasant rambles may be taken in
the vicinity. The arrangements at
the mineral springs are not special-
ly adapted for foreign visitors ; but
all the inns have an abundance of
beautifully clear, cold water. Pretty
basket-work is a local specialty.
Arima may be most easily reached
by taking train to Kanzaki, | hr.,
whence by branch line to Arima-
guchi, f hr. more, and about 2 ?'i on
foot or by kago. Another way is
by rail to Sumiijoshi, \ hr., and then
on foot or in chairs over the Rokko-
zan Pass, 8 miles, say 3 hours. The
pass, which is about two-thirds of
the way to Arima, lies 3,000 ft.
above the sea. From the top of
Kokko-zan itself, 200 ft. higher, a
fine view may be obtained ; and
here, during the last few years,
several of the Kobe residents have
erected villas.

10. Suma, Tarumi, Maiko,
and Akaslii are well-lcnown places
on the Sanyo EaUway, where the
Kobe residents often hire summer
lodgings and enjoy excellent sea-
bathing. The following inns may
be recommended : — Hoyo-in, at
Suma ; Beach House Hotel at
Tarximi ; *Manki-ro, at Maiko ; and
Hashimoto-ya, at Akasld. At
Alcashi, which is a pleasant spot for
picnics, there is a pretty little
Shinto temple in honour of the
ancient poet Hitomaro, and there
remain the moat and walls of the
large castle of the former Daimyo.
Akashi is the place selected as the
time meridian for all Japan. — Ta-
kasago (Inn, Shiliata-ya), and
Soue, a little further down the
coast, are miach %'isited by the Japa-
nese, who alight at Kakogawa. sta-
tion, and rejoin the train at Amida,
after a round of 2 J ri by jinrikisha.
The attractions are some famous
old pine-trees and a temple of Ten-
jin. These places, together with

Befu and Onoe in the immediate
neighbourhood, constitute what
native travellers call the Harima
Meguri, or " Round of the Province
of Harima."

From the time of Hitomaro early in the
8th century onward, the Japanese poets
have never tired of singing the beauties
of this pine-clad coast. The spirits of two
ancient pine-trees {Ai-oi no Matsii) at Taka-
sago, personitic'd as a man and woman of
venerable age who are occupied in raking
up pine needles, form a favourite subject
of Jajianese ait as typifj'ing longevity.
Here also is laid the scene of some of the
most celebrated chapters of the Genji
Monogaiari, the greatest of the classical
romances, composed about A.D. 1000. This
coast has likewise been the scene of stir-
ring historical events, more particularly
of a great battle fought in the year 1184
between the armies of the rival houses of
Taira and Miiiamoto, who were then stiU
struggling for political supremacy, though
the tlnal triumph of the Minamoto in the
person of Yoritomo was not far off. The
battle was fought close to the W. end of
Suma in a valley called Ichi-no-tani, and
was the occasion of an incident famous in
history and song as the " Death of Atsu-
mori" (see Kumagai Naozane, p. 78).

11. Himeji {Inns, Akamatsu-ro,
Ijrie ; Europ. resit., Inoue-ro),
capital of the province of Harima,
is a busy commercial centre, being
at the junction of three highways,
— the Sanyodd, which runs west
along the northern shore of the
Inland Sea to Shimonoseki ; a
road to the provinces of Mimasaka,
H5ki, and Izumo ; and a third up
the valley of the Ichikawa, via
Ikuno to Toyooka in the province
of Tajima. Himeji's chief attrac-
tion, however, is its ancient Castle,
which still remains in a state of
exceptional preservation and emi-
nently deserves a visit, being the
largest in Japan next to that of
Osaka. It is five-storied, and the
top commands a fine view. Permits
are granted at the Kobe Prefecture
{Eencho).

The castle, as it stands, is the outcome
of the warlike labours of several noble
families during many ages. Founded iu
the 14th century by Akamatsu Enshin, a
retainer of the unfortunate Emperor Go-
Daigo, it soon fell into the hands of the
Ashikaga Shoguns, but was recovered in

Route 34 — Osaka and Neighhourhood.

319

1467 by a descendant of the Akamatsu
family. In 1577, Ota Nobunaga, then all-
powerful, gave the province to Hideyoshl,
who enlarged the castle and crowned it
with thirty turrets. In 1608, Ikeda Teru-
masa, to whom it had been meantime
granted in fief, increased the number of
turrets to fifty, which took him nine
years to finish. Thenceforward Himeji
was at peace ; and at the time of the
collapse of feudalism, belonged to a Dai-
myo named Sakai. The barracks now
used are of modem construction.

The chief productions of Himeji
are cotton and stamped leather
goods. At Shirakuni, a short dis-
tance from Himeji, are some pretty
plum orchards.

12. It is easy from Kobe to visit
the large and interesting Island of
Awaji, which forms the subject-
matter of Koute 44, and to start
on a tour down the Inland Sea or
to Shikoku (Routes 43 and 47-51).

ROUTE 34.

Osaka and Netghbotjbhood.

1. the city : the mint, temple of
tenjin, kozu-no-mita, ik.udama
jinja, tennoji, dotom-boki, hon-
gwanji temples. 2. neighbotjk-
hood : sumiyoshi and sak4.i.

1. — The City of Osaka.

Osaka, also pronounced Ozaka,
is reached by the Tokaido Railway
from Kobe in a Uttle over 1 hr., and
from Ky5to in IJ hr.

Hotel. — Osaka Club Hotel, in
Naka-no-shima, 10 min. from the
Tokaido Railway station.

The curious bronze monument shaped
like a lighted candle, which stands just
outside this hotel, is a memorial raised
in 1882 to the loyalist soldiers who fell in
the Satsuma and other civil wars.

Japanese Inns. — Hana-ya, Toki-
"wa.

Restaurant (Jap. and Europ.). —
Seikwan-ro.

Post and Telerp-aph Offices. — ^At
the Umeda Railway station, at
Shinsai-bashi, at Korai-bashi, and
in the Foreign Settlement,

Theatres. — In the Dotom-bori.

Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, Ogu-
ni, and others at K5rai-bashi.

Saisuma Porcelain Decorator. —
Yabu Meizan, 197 Dojima, Naka
Ni-chome.

Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, at Korai-
bashi; Daimaru, and Takashima-ya,
in Shinsai-bashi-suji ; and Obashi-
ya in Mido-suji.

Sakai Eugs. — Mitani, in Hom-
machi.

There are many good shops of
various kinds in Shinsai-bashi-suji.
The bazaars (kwankoba) deserve a
visit. The best are the Furitsu
Hakubutsu-jo between Umeda sta-
tion and Tennoji, the Shohin Mihon
Chinretsu-jo in Dojima, and the
Shogyo Club at Imamiya.

For Steam Communication to-
Awaji and Inland Sea ports, see
Routes 43 and 44.

Urban Railway. This forms a
semi-circle round the city, with
stations at Umeda (connecting with
Tokaido Railway), Temma, Kyo-
bashi, Tamatsukuri, Momoyama,
Tennoji (connecting with Nara and
Sakurai branches), and Minato-cho.

Histoi-y and Topography. — This wealthy
commercial city covers an area of nearly
8 miles square. The earliest use of the
name Osaka occurs in a document dating
from the end of the 1.5th century, where it
is applied to part of the township of Iku-
dama. The ancient name of the city, still
used in poetry, was Nuniwa, said to be a
corruption of nami hay/' " wave-swift," or
narai hana, " wave flowers," because the
fleet of Jimmu Tenno here encountered a.
boisterous sea on its arrival from Hyuga.
This word is also found in Namba, the
name of one of the Osaka railway stations.
In 1583, Hideyoshi resolved to make Osaka
the seat of his power, judging that he
could from this position most easily domi-
nate the Daimyos of the South and West.

The city of Osaka lies upon the banks
of the Todogawa, the river draining
Lake Biwa. Naka-no-shima, an island in
the centre of the stream, divides the
river into two courses of about equal
width. The scene here on summer eve-
nings is of the gayest description. Hun

320

Route 34. — Omka and Neighbourhood.

dreds of boats float lazily upon the water,
filled with citizf-ns who resort thither to
enjoy the cool river breezes, while itine-
rant musicians, vendors of refreshments
and fireworks, etc., ply amongst the merry
throng, doing a thriving business. The
city is also intersected by numerous
canals, which uecessitate a great number
of bridges, and give it an appearance
that may remind some travellers of Hol-
land. Osaka always suffers to a greater
degree than other cities in the empire
from epidemics, probably due to contami-
nation carried by so much water com-
munication. The three great bridges
across the Yodogawa are the Temma-
Taashi, Ten.jin-bashi and Xaniwa-bashi.
The principal thoroughfare is called Shin-
sai-bashi-suji. which its fine shops, thea-
tre.s, and bustling aspect render one of
the mo.st interesting streets, not only in
Osaka, but in Japan. In summer, this
street derives quite an Oriental appearance
from the curtains stretched across it to
keej^ out the .sun, and from the bright hues
of many of the articles of merchandise.
Since about 18TO, the aspect of the city
has been greatly changed by the building
of cotton mills and other manufactories.
The place is rapidly becoming a forest of
tall chimneys.

The Foreign Settlement is situated at
Kawaguchi, at the junction of two
streams. Close by are the Custom-house,
and the wharves for the steamers that
ply between Osaka and Kobe, Shikoku,
and the ports of the Inland Sea.

The Castle (0 Shiro). Permits
can be obtained on application at
the Osaka Fu (City Office), ^ hr.
from the Hotel, — open daily from
9 to 4, except Sundays and national
holidays, and on Saturday only till
noon. The application must be
made personally, as it has to be
signed, but only one of a party need
present himself. The permit must
be used the same day, and given up
to the sentry.

When Hideyoshi set about the building
of this castle in 1.583, labourers were
drawn from all parts of the country (ex-
cept the domain of leyasu , and the work
was completed in two years. The palace
thus raised within the castle was pro-
bably the grandest building which Japan
ever boasted. It survived the taking of the
castle by leyasu iu 1015 ; and in 1867 and
1868 the members of the foreign legations
were received within its walls by the last
of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Will Adams,
and' his contemporary Captain John
Saris, give in the quaint style of those
•days, a good idea of the splendour of the

palace and the extent of the city at the
opening of the 17th century. .\^dama
says :— " I was carried in one of the King's
gallies to the court at Osaka, where the
King lay about eightie leagues from the
place where the shippe was. The twelfth
of May 1600, I came to the great King's
citie who caused me to be brought into
the court, beeing a wonderful! costly
house guilded with gold iu abundance."
Saris' account is as follows: "We found
Ozaca to be a vei'y great towne, as great
as London within the walls, with many
faire timber bridges of a great height,
seruing to passe ouer a riuer there as
wide as the Thames at London. Some
faire houses we found there but not
many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports
of all Japan : hauing a castle in it, mar-
vellous large and strong, with very
deepe trenches about it, and many draw-
bridges, with gates plated with yron.
The castle is built all of free-stone, with
bulwark and battlements, with loope
holes for smal shot and arrowes. and
diuers passages for to cast stones upon
the assaylants. The walls are at the
least sixe or seuen yards thicke all (as I
said) of free-stone, without any filling in
the inward part with trumpery, as they
reported into me. The stones are great,
of an excellent quarry, and are cut so
exactly to fit the place where they are
laid, that no morter is used, but onely
earth cast betweene to fill up voyd
creuises if any be." — Excluding the
palace, this remains an excellent descrip-
tion of the locality as seen to-day. The
huge stones forming the walls of the
principal gate of the castle attest the
magnificent design of its founder. Out-
.side the present fortress ran a second line
Of moat and parapet, the destruction of
which was made a condition of peace by
leyasu after the first siege in 1614. The
moat varied in width from 80 yds. to 120
yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 23 ft. :
but it was completely effaced in about
three weeks' time. On the 2nd Feb., 1868,
the buildings within the castle were set on
fire by a train laid by the Tokugawa
party before their final retreat, and were
completely destroyed in a few hours.
The castle now serves as the head-
quarters of the Osaka garrison.

The size of the stones, aU granite,
used in the contruction of the
walls is stupendous. Some measure
as much as 40 ft. long by 10 ft. in
height, and are several ft. in thick-
ness. The moats are paved ■«-ith
granite throughout. The view from
the top of the platform on which
stood the donjon (tenshu), is very
extensive, embracing such distant
objects as Hiei-zan to the N.E.,

The Mint. Tenndji and other Temples.

321

Koya-san to the S., Kongo-san and
other higli mountains of Yaniato
to the S.E. Immediately below is
a noted well called the Kim-mei-sui,
lit. " Famous Golden Water," which
furnished a sufficient supply for
the garrison in time of siege.

The following are the other chief
places of interest in Osaka, begin-
ning with those nearest to the To-
kaido Railway station, and maldng
the I'ound of the city. One day is
sufficient for the whole.

The Mint (Zohei-kyoku), about
20 min. in jinrildsha from the
station, organised in 1871 by a
staff of British officials, has been
under Japanese management since
1889. Besides the ilint proper,
there are sulphmic acid works and
a refinery. Some of the depart-
ments are not shown, except to
visitors provided with a special
permit.

Tenjin, or Teramaarju (see p. 56),
on the N. side of the river, not far
from the Tenjin-bashi, is a popular
temple founded in the 10th century.
It contains some good car\ings,
and the ex-voto sheds have several
pictures of merit.

The principal festival is held on the
25th July, when the god pays a visit to
Matsushima some 2 m. south of another
shrine dedicated to him at Temma. and a
torchlight procession then takes place.

Crossing the river by the Tenjin-
bashi, and proceeding S. for about
1 m., we reach

Kozu-no-miya, on a hill to the
1., which commands a fine view W.
over the city. This temple is
dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku,
born 278 A.D. accorcfing to the re-
ceived chronology. In the florist's
(jarden (Kichisiike's) at the foot of
the hill, the show of peonies at the
end of April is among the finest in
Japan. The Kangiku-en (chrysan-
themum show) in the same district
well deserves a visit in November.

The Ikudama Jinja, a little
further S. up a flight of steps, is
a picturesque Shinto shrine deihcat-

ed to the patron deities of the city,
and fabled to have been founded by
Jimmu Tenno on the spot where
the castle now stands. Hideyoshi
removed the temple to its present
site about the year 1596. The view
from the new ex-voto hall (Ema-do)
at the back, looking towards the
strait of Akashi, is pretty. About
1 m. further S. stands the famous
Buddhist temple of

Tennoji, which occupies an im-
mense extent of ground on the S.E.
of the city.

It was founded by the illustrious Im-
perial devotee, Shotoku Taishi, about A. D.
(jOO, but has frequently fallen into decay,
and been renovated at the expense of
either the Mikados or the Shoguus.

On entering the great south gate,
we find ourselves in a large open
space, the centre of Avhich is occu-
pied by a square colonnade, open on
the inner side. On the r. is a
shrine called Taishi-do, dedicated
to Shdtoku Taishi. It is a building
of unpainted wood, roofed with
thick shingles. Opjjosite this is a
shrine containing the Indo no kaiie,
or " Bell of Leading," which is rung
in order that the Saint-Prince may
conduct the dead into paradise.
Dolls, toj-^s, and childi-en's dresses
are offered up before it. Further
on is a building which contains a
curious stone chamber, with water
pouring into it from the mouth of
a stone tortoise. The names of
those recently dead are written on
thin slips of bamboo, and held at
the end of a long stick in the
sacred stream, which also carries
petitions to Shotoku Taishi on
behalf of the departed souls. Be-
yond is a pond with live tor-
toises. It is partly covered over
by a large new stone dancing-stage,
which also serves as a bridge to the
Eokuji-do temple opposite. Close
by is another Indo no kane.

From the gallery at the top of the
lofty five-storied pagoda, the whole
city and surrounding country can
be seen. The Kondo, or Golden
Hall, is about 54 ft. by 48 ft., and

322

Route 34 — Osaka and Neighbourhood.

the highly decorated shrine within
is dedicated to Nyo-i-rin Kwan-
non. The image, which is copper
gilt, is said to have been the first
Buddhist image ever brought to
Japan from Korea ; but that
honour is also claimed for the triple
image at Zenkoji (see p. 262).
Various treasures dating from the
7th and 8th centuries are preserved
at Tennoji.

Keturning by the same streets
to the entrance of Kozu-no-Miya
and going W., we soon find our-
selves, by the side of the Dotom-
bori canal in a street consisting
chiefly of theatres, variety shows,
and restaurants, This part of
Osaka is especially lively at night.
Turning to the r. at the Ebisu-
bashi, we cross into the Shinsai-
bashi-suji, about half-way down
which, a little to the 1., are the two
temples of the Hongwanji sect of
Buddhists. The first is the Higa-
shi Hong-wanji, built about the
year 1615. It contains some fine
massive open-work carvings. On
the r. of the courtyard is a white-
plastered building containing a
copy of the Buddhist canon, with
a figure of Fu-Daishi in front. The
Nishi Hongwanji stands a few
hundred yards further north in the
same street. Its gateway is a
beautiful example of the applica-
tion of the chrysanthemum in
tracery and open-work carving. On
the main altar is a statue of Amida
3 ft. 6 in. high, with the abbot
Shinran Shonin on his 1., in a richly
carved and gilded shrine. A tower
in the apartments at the back of the
building commands a fine view of
the surrounding country.

2. — Neighbouehood of Osaka.

The principal places of interest
in the immediate neighbourhood
of Osaka are Suniiyoshi and Sakai,
both reached by the Nankai Rail-
way. Trains run from either end at
intervals of half-an-boior through-
out the dav.

Names

of
Stations

Remarks

OSAKA (Namba)

2im.

Teuga-jaya

Sumiyoslii

(Alightfor
( temple

SAKAI

The large embankment seen
between Osaka and Tenga-jaya is
that of the railway to Nara.

Tenga-jaya is so called because
Hideyoshi, when lord of the em-
pire, had a villa there, which is
still maintained for the sake of its
historic associations. It stands in
a small grove visible to the 1. from
the carriage windows. The name
of this place is famiHar to all
Japanese theatre-goers, as the
scene of a famous vendetta which
is often represented on the boards.
The entrance to the temple of
Sumiyoshi is passed just before
reaching the station of that
name.

The Temple of Sumiyoslii,
dedicated to the three gods of the
sea who, according to the legend in
the Nihongi, assisted the Empress
Jingo in her expedition to Korea, is
held in high veneration by the lower
classes of Osaka, great crowds flock-
ing to it on festival days (every U-
no-hi, or " Day of the Hare "). Out-
side are innimaerable stone lanterns
presented as ex-votos. In the pond,
over which passes a semi-circular
bridge, live a number of tortoises
with water-weed growing on their
backs. These are popularly known
as mino-game, — from mino, the grass-
coat worn by peasants in rainy
weather, and kame, a tortoise. The
Yamato-gawa is crossed near its
mouth before entering

Sakai (Lms, B6kai-ro and
several others on the sea-shore,
with good view ; Satsuma-ya, in
the town on the K6ya-san side), a

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

323

large maniifacturin^ centre. Its
tine beach called Chinu-ga-ura,
which is lined with tea-houses,
attracts many visitors from Osaka
dming the summer months. The
view thence includes Rokko-zan to
the r., Kobe straight in front, the
island of Awaji to the 1., and still
further 1. the hills that separate the
province of Izumi from that of
Kishu. The lofty chimneys are
those of brick Idlns, and of coke
and cotton factories. Sakai also
produces a large amount of cutlery,
sake, and cosmetic powder. But
the most characteristic industry is
the manufacture of excellent cotton
rugs and carpets (Sakai dantsu).
They are of two kinds, — ori-dashi
(colours woven in), and some-komi
(colours dyed). The former are
the handsomer and much the more
durable. Hideous specimens are
now made to foreign order.

Sakai takes its name from its position
close to the bounclarj- of the three prov-
inces of Izumi, Settsu, and Kawachi,
having been originally called Sakai no
I'.ni. that is. Boundary Seaport. Until the
end of the 14th century, when a fortress
was built here by Yamana I'jikiyo. it v/as
a mere village. Koniahi Settsu-no-kami,
one of Hideyoshi's most distinguished
officer.-> and an early convert to Christian-
ity, was born in this town, where his
forefathers for several generations had
carried on the business of druggists.
Another equally celebrated native of
vSakai was Sen-no-Rik;u (see p. 8:5). In
the 16th century Sakai was one of the
most flourishing of the Roman Catholic
mission stations, and is frequently men-
tioned by the Jesuits aud other early
writers. Will Adam.s thus describes it :
"Right over against Ozala, on the other
side of the riuer, lyeth another gi'eat
Towne called Sacey, but not so bigge as
Ozaka, yet is a towne of great trade for
all the Hands thereabout."

The neatly kept temple of Myo-
kokvjl, belonging to the Nichiren
sect of Buddhists, has a three-sto-
ried pagoda •with elaborate carvings
by Hidari Jingoro. The sanctum
in the main building is handsome.
In the gi-ounds are some far-famed
specimens of the sotetsu [Cycas
revoluta), which resembles the sago-
palm.

They were planted here by Miyoshi Ji-
kyu about the middle of the ICtb century,
leyasu carried the beet away to his own
residence in 1582, but finding that it re-
fused to flourish there, restored it to its
home. It is popularly believed that this
plant, the name of which means "revival
by iron," gains much benefit by that
metal, and accordingly iron coins and
myriads of broken needles will here be
noticed round the roots. The needles
are thrown there by the women of the
country-side, for the ijurpose of giving
the fittest sepulture to the most precious
instrument of feminine toil.

In the front court of this temple lie
buried eleven warriors of the Tosa clan,
who were condemned to disembowel
themselves for having shot down the
same number of unarmed French sailors
in the spring of 1S88. It must be remem-
bered that this form of capital punish-
ment, barbarous as it may seem to Eu-
ropeans, was at that time recognised as a
privilege of the samurai class, and pre-
ferred by them to simple decapitation.

On the S.E. of the town is the
tumulus of Nintoku Tenno, a double
mound (misasagi). The north-
ern summit is 84 ft., the southern
100 ft. high, while the cu-cuit of
the base measures 1,52G yds. It is
suiTounded by a double moat, and
in the immediate neighbourhood
are nine smaller tumuli.

ROUTE 35.

Kyoto and Neighbouehood.

environs : aeashi-yama eaplds.
hiei-zan. taeao-zan. kukama-
yama. iwashimizu.

Kyoto, also called Saikyo (for-
merly Miyako), is 2h hrs. fi-om Kobe
by train. The whole surroumling
district is often spoken of as Kami-
gata.

Hotels. — Yaami Hotel, on Maru-
yama, fine view ; Kyoto Hotel, in
Kawara-machi ; Oriental Hotel, now
building on the hill behind the
Kyoto Museum ; Nakamura-ya, also

324

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

called Niken-jaya, near the temple
of Gion.

Japanese Inns. — Tawara-ya, Hira-
gi-ya, in Fuya-cho ; Ike-sho, in
Kiya-macM.

Japanese Restaurants. — Take-
mura-ya, Hachi-shin.

Theatres and other places of
amtisement, in Shin-Kyogoku ; one
theatre in Shijd ITashizume, an-
other in Hanami-koji.

Central Post and Telegraph Office,
in Sanjo-dori Higashi-no-Toin.

Kyoto is noted for its pottery
and porcelain, its embroideries, cut
velvets and brocades, its bronzes,
and its cloisonne. The following
shoxjs may be recommended : —

Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko-
zan, at Awata, where manufacture
on a large scale for export is car-
ried on ; Kyoto Tojiki Kwaisha, at
Shirakawa-bashi ; Seifu, Nishida, at
Gojo-zaka. There are many other
manufactiu'ers and dealers in Kiyo-
mizu-zaka and at Gojo-zaka, but
they work mostly on a small scale.

New Embroider y, Velvets, and
Mercery. — Mshiniura, at Sanj5
Karasu-maru ; Takashima-ya, at
Karasu-maru Takatsuji ; Daimaru-
Ichi, at Otabi-cho ; Tanaka Bishichi
or Abnrari, at Karasu-maru Shichi-
j6 ; Kawashima, at Sanjo Higashi-
no-Toin. Benten, at Shin-monzen.

Old Embroideries, etc. — Benten,
at Shin-monzen, with branch in
Gionmachi ; Matsuba-ya, at Gojo
Shimmachi ; Yajima Shokd, at Gion
Hachiken.

Bronze and Damascene Ware. —
E. Jomi (Shojodo), at Tera-machi
Shijo ; Nogawa, in Otabi-cho ;
Kanaya Gorosaburo, at Tomi-no-
koji Oike ; Komai, in Furu-mon-
zen, Miyoshi-cho.

Cxirios. — Ikeda, at Shin-mon-
zen ; Hayashi, at Furu-monzen ;
Yamanaka, at Tera-machi Oike ;
Kyukyo-do, at Tera-machi Ane-ga-
koji ; Benten, in Gion-machi. The
street called JSlanjuji-dori is almost
entirely tenanted by curio-dealers
of the more old-fashioned sort.

Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at Sanjo-
Kita-ura Shirakawa-bashi ; Kin-un-
ken, at Sanjo Shirakawa-bashi.

Lacquer. — Nishimura, at Tera-
machi Aya-no-k5ji.

Bamboo Work. — Wada, in Kiya-
machi ; Ishii Shoten, in Gion-machi.

Fajis, Bolls, ami Toys. — Nishida,
at Higashi-no-T5in Shichijo ; Ishi-
zumi, at Yanagi-no-Bamba Aya-no-
koji ; Misaki, at Shijd Tomi-no-koji;
Minami Shimizu, Kita Shimizu, at
Tomi-no-koji Shij5.

Gwides.— Trustworthy guides be-
longing to the Kaiyusha Associa-
tion can be engaged at the hotels.

An Electric Tramway runs
through Kydto from north to south;
but foreign visitors will find jinriM-
shas more convenient.

Religious Services. — Protestant,
as advertised from time to time in
the hotels ; Eoman Catholic
Church, behind the Kyoto Hotel.

The Milcado's Palaces ((?os/io and
Nijo no Rikyu), together with the
Imperial \'illas (Katsura no Ri-kyu
and Shitgaku-in), are not open to
the public, permits being only ob-
tainable by favour of the foreign
legations. Travellers may easily
console themselves with the Apart-
ments of the Nishi Hongwanji,
Nanzenji, or any of the other great
temples, which, having been in-
habited at various times by certain
Mikados, were fitted up more or less
in the same palatial style. Kyoto's
other gi-eatest builtlings are the
San-ju-san-gen-do, Nishi and Higa-
shi Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion,
and Chion-in temples, and the Tai-
kyoku-den, in addition to which at
least one of the celebrated landscape
gardens — say Kinkakuji or Gin-
kalmji — should be visited, as they
are among the most characteristic
products of Japanese estheticism.
The best general view of Kyoto is
us'aally considered to be obtained
from a hill called Shogun-zuka, just
behind the Y'aami Hotel, but has
been somewhat spoilt of late years
by the growth of trees. Fairly
good views of the city and neigh-

General Information.

325

boiu'liood uiay be sfained witli less
trouble from the Shinto memorial
to dead waniors (Sholcon-hi) above
Kodaiji, and from the Yasaka
Pagoda. Kiyomizu-dera and the
Yoshimizu tea-house close to the
Yaami Hotel, also command excel-
lent views.

No one visiting Ky5to at the
proper season should fail to see the
Miyako Odori, a fascinating kind of
ballet given every evening from 5 to
10 o'clock at llanami-koji, near the
Gion-za Theatre. The perform-
ances generally begin in early
April, and last twenty nights.
The school [Nyolcoba] hard by,
where the dancing-girls are also
taught other elegant accomplish-
ments, such as the tea ceremonies
and the art of floral arrangement,
may be visited at any season.

Very characteristic, too, is the
manner in which the citizens take
the air on summer evenings in that
part of the bed of the Kamogawa
which is crossed by the Shijo
Bridge. Little tables are placed in
the dry spaces, to which miniature
bamboo bridges lead from either
bank ; and there the people sit
eating and drinking, and fanning
themselves, and listening to the
music of singing-girls. This is
known as Shijo-gawara no suzumi.
The various religious festivals
{matsuri) at Kyoto are particularly
curious and interesting, more es-
pecially the Gio7i Matsuri on the
17th and 24th July, and the Inari
Matsuri in May. The jarocessions,
which parade the streets on these
and other occasions mentioned be-
low, form an attractive feature of
popular life. During the last six
or seven years there has been a
revival of interest in all these
things, many temples having been
renovated, the treasures of others
being now shown to better
advantage than formerly, etc.
Furthermore, no one having money
in his purse should faU to visit the
shops, which are perhaps the most
attractive in Japan.

Though a superficial acquaint-
ance with Kyoto may be gained in
a couple of days, at least a week is
necessary to form an adequate idea
of its manifold beauties. Owing to
the gradual shrinking of the city in
modern times, many of the best
sights are some distance away in
the outskirts, and much time is
spent in going fi'om one to another.
Two or three hours will be saved
by taking sandwiches with one,
instead of returning to the hotel
for lunch. The f ollo^dng is ofEered
as a sketch of the order in which
the various sights of Kyoto may
best be visited. Careful sightseers
will scarcely be able to see all that
we have crowded into one day for
the guidance of such as are pressed
for time ; but they can resume next
day at the point where they left
off, as the order follows regularly
round the points of the compass,
beginning with the north-central
portion of the city : —

Isi Day. — The Mikado's Palace,
— even a passing glance at the ex-
terior is better than nothing, — Kita-
no-Tenjin, Kinkakuji, the Shinto
shrine of Ota Nobunaga, T6ji-in,
the Nij5 Palace.

2nd Day. — Higashi Hongwanji,
Mshi Hongwanji, the temple of
Inari at Fushimi, Tofukuji, San-jii-
san-gen-do, the Daibutsu, the Kyoto
Museum.

3rd Day. — Nishi Otani, Kiyomizu-
dera, the Yasaka Pagoda, Kodaiji,
Shogun-zuka, Maruyama, Higashi
Otani, Gion, Chion-in.

4ih Day. — Awata Palace, Tai-kyo-
ku-den, Nanzenji, Eikwando, Kuro-
dani, Shinnyodo, Ginkakuji, Shimo-
Gamo, Kami-Gamo.

5th Day. — The Eapids of the
Katsura-gawa, Arashi-yama, Sei-
ryuji, Uzumasa.

6th Day. — Hiei-zan.^Or else by
jinriMsha or train to Otsu on Lake
Biwa, Miidera, Karasaki, Ishiyama,
and back by the same conveyance
or canal boat. — Or, thirdly, jinxiki-
sha to Otsu, whence steamer across

326

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

Lake Biwa to Hikone. where lunch,
and back by train (see Sonte 40).

7th Day. — The silk, bronze, and
cloisonne shops.

An 8th day may well be devoted
to Nara (Eoute 36).

Shonld any be so unfortunate as
to have but a single day at their
command, they might devote the
morning to either the Nishi Hon-
gwanji or the Higashi Hongwanji
temple, the San-jii-san-gen-do, the
Museum (if time), and Chion-in ;
then, after lunch, proceed — skirting
the Palace — to Kitano Tenjin and
Kinkakuji, ending up vn.t\x a visit
to some of the shops.

History and Topograyliy. — From the
earliest ages, the seat of the Mikado's
rule was generally in the province of
Yamato ; but owing to the ancient custom
of not continuing to inhabit the house of
a deceased paient, the actual site was
usually changed at the commencement of
each reign At the beginning of the 8th
century the capital was established at
Xara, where it remained until AD. 784,
when the reigning sovereign Kwammu
moved to Xagaoka, a spot at the foot of
the bills about half-way between Yama-
zaki and Arashi-yama in the province of
Yamashiro. In T'jo, he selected a fresh
site at the village of Uda in the same
province, and transferred his Court thi-
ther towards the end of the following
year. In order to concUiate fortune, he
is said to have bestowed on his new capi-
tal the name of Heian-j6, or the City of
Peace : but this never came into use as
the common designation of the city,
which was spoken of as Miyako or Kyoto,
the former being the Japanese, the latter
the Chinese word tor " metropolis."
When first laid out, the site measured
nearly 3 m. from £. to W.. and about 'i\
m. fiom X. to S. The Palace, which
occupied about one -fifteenth of the area,
was situated in the centre of the N. side,
and a fine street 280 ft. wide led from the
great gate down to the S. gate of the city.
Nine wide streets, called Ichi-jo, 2\i-j6,
San-j6, and so on up to Kii-jo, intersected
the city from E. to W., the widest of
these meaeiuing 170 ft., the narrowest
somewhat less than half. .Similar streets
crossing them at right angles run from
N. to S. and betneen them at ei^ual dis-
taBce.< were lanes each 40 ft. in width.
A double ditch, backed by a low wall with
a gate ut the end of each principal street,
surrounded the whole ot this huge sciuare.
In 117 i the Palace was destroyed by tire,
and three years later the seat of govern-

ment was removed by the all-powerful
minister Kiyomori to I'ukuwara. the
modern town of Hyogo. The Cotirt, how-
ever, soon returned to Kyoto, where it re-
mained stationary until 18G8. Both the
city and the Palace have repeatedly fallen
a prey to the flames, and as often been
rebuilt, as far as possible in the original
style. The present Palace was erected
after the great fire of 1854. Since the
foundation of Yedo in 1590, Kyoto has gra
dually declined in size and importance.
Its population is only half of what it is
estimated to have held during the Middle
Ages ; and from Shichi-jo-dori southwards,
what once formed busy thoroughfares is
now laid out in market-gardens.

Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which,
for the greater part of the year, is a mere
rivulet meandering over a wide pebbly
bed. Cm the 1. bank of the river are the
subm-bs of .\wata and Kiyomizu, between
which lie many of the most Interesting
buildings. The town of Fushimi to the
S. may also be accounted a suburb. The
chief modern addition to the topography
of Kyoto, besides the various railway
lines, is the Lake Biwa Canal which con-
nects the neighbouring large lake with the
Kamo-gawa, as described in Route 40.

The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets,
apparently complicated, is in reality quite
simple, being tounded on a reference to
the points of the compass and to the con-
tour of the land, which is slightly higher
on the K. than on the S. Thus the ex-
pression .Shijo-ilori Teravii":!n Higa.fhJ iru
signifies that portion of the Shijo or
Fourth Thoroughfare which lies a little
to the E. of the East and West intersec-
tion of that thoroughfare by Teraniachi.
Tercmachi dori !<hij6 sagaru signifies the
portion of the North and South Thorough-
fare called Teramachi lying a little to the
South of the intersection of that thorough-
fare by Shijo-dori. the term sa</a/i/ "to
descend," beinu natui-ally applied to the
South, as agriru, "to ascend," is to the
North. The lanes mentioned higher up
are called Kdji, whence such addresses as
Teramachi-dori Ane-ga-Koji, which means,
" Ane Lane oflT the Teramachi Thorough-
fare."

Some curious ariificial scars or clear-
ings are observed on carefully scanning
the pine-clad hills near the city. In these
clearings bonfires are lighted every Itith
August, at the close ot the Bon. festival
(Feast of Lanterns). The most con-
spicuous of these marks is what is called
the Dai Monji, or " Chinese character for
Great," which is WTitten thus, X. It is
situated to the N.E. of the city. To the
X. W. is the Jliluri Dai Mohji, or
"Character for Great reversed," thus ■k,
the difterence between the two, though
slight to European eyes, being instantly
perceptible to any Japanese. There are
several more of these marks, which the
guide will point out.

Mikado's Palace.

327

The Mikado's Palace* (Gosho).
This large mass of buildings covers
an area of nearly 26 acres. It is con-
fined within a roofed wall of earth
and plaster, commonly called the
Mi Tsuiji, and has six gates. The
open space between the wall and
the Palace was formerly covered
•with lesser buildings, in which
the Ku(je, or Court Nobles, resided.
It is now cleared and open to the
public, and in the S.E. corner of it
is a Bazaar (Hakubutsu-ku-au) open
every year in spring.

Visitors are now admitted into
the Palace through the 3Ii BakJo-
koro Go-mon, or Gate of the August
Kitchen, and are first shown into
an ante-chamber where they sign
their names in the Palace book.
This ante-chamber was formerly
used as a waiting-room for Dai-
myos. The sepia drawings in it
are by Kishi Gantai, Kano Eigaku,
and Hara Zaishd. From there they
are led into the Seiryo-den, or Pure
and Cool Hall.

It is so called from a small brook which
runs under the steps. The foreign visitor
to these Japanese palaces will probably
think the term " cool " — not to say
chilly and draughty — most appropriate.
Exquisite as is the art displayed, no at-
tempt was ever made towards heating or
towards anything which Europeans would
deem comfort. From an archseological
and historical point of view, the Chinese
aspect of the Seiryo-den and Shishin-den
has s[)ecial interest. Notice the double-
hinged doors n nv so rare in Japan, and
the heavy hinged shutters suspended un
iron rods that hang from the roof ; also the
Chinese chair inlaid with mother-of-pearl
on which the Jlikado sat, and the total
absence of mats and of a ceiling. Cbinese
customs prevailed at Court when this
building was first reared, and etiquette
perpetuated the public use of these
Apartments on .State occasions. But, as
we shall see a little further on the rooms
habitually occupied by modern Mika,dos
closely resembled, except for greater
omateness, the style of dwelling adopted
by their subjects.

The Seiryo-den faces E., and meas-
iires 63 ft. by 46J ft. Originally

* Not accessible to the general public.
No gr.xtuities accepted here or at the
other palaces.

this suite of apartments was the
ordinary residence of the sovereign;
but in later times it was used only
on the occasion of levees and im-
portant Shinto festivals, such as
the worship of the Four Quarters
on the morning of New Year's day.
In one corner the floor is made of
cement, on which earth was strewn
every morning, so that the Mika.do
might worship his ancestors on the
earth without descending to the
ground. The papered sUdes are
covered with extremely formal
paintings by Tosa MitsuMyo.
Observe the Mikado's throne (Mi
Chodai), a sort of catafalque with
delicate silk curtains of white, red,
and black. The wood of this, as of
all the btiildings, is chamascyparis
[hinoki), — the same species as is
used for the construction of Shintd
temples. The crest everywhere
displayed is the sixteen-petalled
chrysanthemum. The roofing is
of the kind termed hiicada-hnki — a
sort of thick shingling— tUes ap-
Ijearing only on the very lidge.
The empty sanded coiu'ts, the white
plaster, and the red pillars of the
walls give to the Palace a peculiar
aspect of solemnity. Everything,
even down to niinutite, had its name
and function, and was never
changed. For instance, the two
clumps of bamboo in fi'ont of the
Seiryo-den have each a name handed
down from hoary antiquity, one
being the Knn-chiku, the other the
Go-chiku, appellations deiived from
Kan and Go, two kingdoms in
ancient China.

From the Seiryo-den the visitor is
conducted to the Shishin-den, which
faces S. and measures 120 ft. by
6:3^ ft.

The name tShi-s?iin-<len is explained as
follows : shi is '■ pui-ple," the true colour
of the sky or heavens : shin denotes that
which is "mysterious"' and hidden from
the vulgar gaze ; den means " hall." This
building was used for the enthronement
of the Mikado, for the New Year's audi-
ence, and other important ceremonies.

The large paintings in the panels
of this hall represent Chinese sagas.

328

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

The originals were executed in A.D.
888 by the famoiis Kose-no-Kana-
oka ; but they were destroyed long
ago, and the present pictures are
merely copies of copies. The throne,
though quite modern, is interest-
ing. The stools on either side of
it are intended for the Imperial
insignia,^ — the sword and the jewel.
The silken curtains are renewed
every spring and autumn. ObserTS
that the Mikado sat on a chair in
this instance, as did all those here
admitted to an audience. A flight
of eighteen steps leads down into
the court, corresponding in number
to the original series of grades into
which the ofl&cers of government
were divided. Those who were not
entitled to stand on the lowest
step were called Ji-ge, or "down
on the earth," to distinguish them
from the Den-jo-hito, or "persons
who ascend into the hall." On the
1. is a cherry-tree called Sakon no
Sakura, the representative of one
planted by the Emperor Nimmyo
(A.D. 834 to 850). On the r. side is the
Ukon no Tachihana, a wild orange-
tree, also a rehc of ancient custom.

Sakon and Ukon were the names of
ancient ranks, and the application of
them to these trees may be compared to
the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by
Charles U.

A corridor leads from the Shi-
shin-den to the Ko-Gosho (Minor
Palace), which consists of three
rooms decorated with paintings by
modern artists, this whole wing
having been burnt down and re-
stored in 1854:. The predominating
blue colour, laid on in bold broad
stripes to represent clouds, gives a
fresh and original aspect to this
suite which was used for small re-
ceptions, poetry meetings, etc. On
each fusuma, poems are pasted
explanatory of the subjects treated.
The rooms look out on a landscape
garden. From here onwards, all
the arrangements are in thoroughly
Japanese style.

Leaving the Ko-Gosho, we are led
by another long gallery to the 0

Oakumonjo, or Imperial Study,
where the lilikado's tutors delivered
lectures, and where courts were
held for the cultivation of poetry
and music. The decoration of the
sliding-screens in this suite calls
for special remark, ilost of the
rooms take their names from the
subjects delineated in them. The
wild geese in the Gan no Ma are by
Kenzan (Gantoku), d. 1859 ; the
screens of the Yamabuki no Ma are
by Maruyama Oryu ; the chrysan-
themums in the Kiku no Ma, by
Okamoto Sukehiko. The three
rooms which form the Audience
Chamber, caUed respectively Ge-
dan, Chudan, and Jodan, are decorat-
ed with Chinese scenes by Hara
Zaishd and other modem artists.
The ceihngs are coffered. The
wooden doors in the corridor are by
Shomura KyiishS, Yoshida K5kin,
Hara Nankei, and Murakami Seiju.
Another long gallei-y leads to a
suite, now scarcely ever shown, —
the Tsune Goten., or Usual Residence
of the Mikados, consisting of
eleven rooms, which, fiom the 13th
century onwards, formed the retreat
wherein generations of sovereigns
lived and died. The actual struc-
ture, however, dates only from 1854.

After long remaining vacant, the Tsune
Goten was again occupied for a few
months by the present Emperor in 1897.

The decoration is mostly in
subdued colours, but with much
gold. The third room after enter-
ing was the Imperial Sitting-room
(Goza no Ma), in front of which is
a small garden, with pines and
cherry-trees, and the sound of run-
ning water, but no view. The
other rooms were mostly appro-
priated to the female attenclants.
One of them, decorated -Rith bam-
boos and tigers was the Imperial
Bedroom, so placed that none
could approach it without the
knowledge of the attendants. The
Moshi no Kuchi, literally " Opening
for Speech," — a room of thiily mats
with paintings of pine-trees and

Mikado's Palace. Kifano lenjin.

329

monkeys — was the chamber appro-
priated to men who had business
with His Majesty ; they stated their
errand to the women, who trans-
mitted it to the Mikado. The last
apartment of the Tsune Goten
suite, called Kenji no Ma, is also
the largest and gTandest, being
brilliantly decorated with Chinese
Court scenes on a gold ground by
artists of the Kan5 school. It is
against etiquette to set foot in the
Jbdan or chief chamber.

The next siaite, high and spacious
like the Tsune Goten, and facing
south towards a small court, is the
On Mi Ma (August Three Eooms),
hrightly adorned with paintings in
tlie Tosa style representing ancient
Japanese Court scenes. Private
audiences were granted here, and
here the A'o (a kind of lyric drama)
was witnessed at a distance by
the Mikado sitting invisible on the
upper iioor. The No stage is under
a separate roof, and cut off from
the suite by a high paling, which
was removed when a performance
took place. Beyond these suites,
but rarely if ever shown, lie the
Noryb-den, or Palace for Enjoying
the Cool Air, which was reserved
for the Mikado's private pleasures,
and the Kita Goten, or Northern
Palace, containing the apartments
of the Heir Apparent. There were
formerly also palaces for the Em-
press, Empress Dowager, and Prin-
cesses, besides various other build-
ings now destroyed or removed.
For instance, the Kashiko-dokoro,
or Fearful Place, in which was pre-
served the sacred mirror of the Sun-
Goddess, has been transferred to
Jimmu Tenno's mausoleum in the
province of Yamato.

The large brick building notice-
able on the hill r. on quitting the
Palace, with three others north of
it, belongs to the Doshisha, which
was founded in 1875 under the aus-
pices of the American Board Mis-
sion as a Christian University, but
has since 1897 severed that connec-
tion. Belonging to the same insti-

tution are a Girls' School, a Train-
ing School for Nurses, and a Hos-
pital.

Kitano Tenjin, commonly call-
ed Tenjin Sama, is a temple dedi-
cated to the popular deity of that
name. Entering through the great
stone torii on the S., we find stone
lanterns and stone and bronze
animals presented by devotees.
Two more torii and two two-storied
gates are passed through, — • the
last of these being called San-ko
no Mon, or Gate of the Three
Luminaries, i.e. the Sun, Moon,
and Stars, from representations of
those heavenly bodies which can
only be distinguished with much
difficulty among the carvings on
the beams of the gateway. The
oratory, built by Hideyori in 1G07,
forms the N. side of a square, the
other three sides being colonnades,
with the Gate of the Sun, Moon,
and Stars on the S. Its dimensions
are 58 ft. by 24 ft. The cornice is
decorated with colour in the style
prevalent at that period. The
shrine behind, 38|^ ft. by 32^ ft., is
separated fi-om the oratory by a
chamber paved with stone, having
its roof at right angles to the roofs
of the oratory and shrine. Behind
is the Jinushi no Yashiro, or
Temple of the Lord of the Soil,
said to have been founded in A.D.
836, together with numerous other
small shrines. The treasury is
built of wooden beams, the section
of each beam being a right-angled
triangle with the right angle out-
side,— a form of construction much
followed in this district of Japan.
East of the colonnade are the
kagura stage and the building in.
which the god's car [mikoshi) is
kept. The temple was founded by
adherents of the llydbu Shinto sect,
and is still an excellent specimen
of the mixed style which they
affected. The numberless stone
lanterns, the stone and metal bulls,
the ex-voto shed with its grotesque
pictures, the elaborately carved and
painted gateways, the swaying

330

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

lanterns,— all testify to a form of
worsliip of the baser popular sort.
Sick beUevers may be seen rubbing
one of tlie bronze biiUs to get relief
from their ailments, — the bull's
chest if their own chest is what
hurts them, and so on. One of the
queerest features of the main build-
ing is a set of framed i^ictui-es of
the Thirty-Six Geniuses of Poetry,
made of woven stuffs, which have
been presented by the manufac-
turers, and thus serve as an adver-
tisement.

The yearly festival, ■witli a procession
of religious ears {Zuiki Mafsuri), takes
place on the 4th October. The "ioth of
each month is also specially observed.

Hirano Jiaja. This now dingy
temple esemphfies the architec-
tural canons of Piu-e Shinto. The
annual festival is held on the "ind
May. The chen-y-trees in the
gi-ound are much visited during
the season of blossom, especially at
night-time. They are of many
varieties, and each tree has some
fanciful poetical name.

Daitokuji

Daitokuji, belonging to the Zen sect of
Buddhists, was founded by Daito Koku-
shi, an abbot of the early part of the 14th
century, to whom, as to so many other.-, a
mir.iculous birth and precocious wisdom
are ascribed. The manner of his concep-
tion is said to have been that his mother
dreamt one night that a wild-goose came
flying towards her with an open blossom
in its beak, and that soon afterwards she
found herself to be with child.

is celebrated for the art treasures
stored in its godowns. Xo temple in
Japan — so it is aveiTcd — possesses
an equally large number of valu-
able kakemonos. Though most of
the best j)ieces are thus hidden
from ^-iew, the Apartments richly
deserve the careful scrutiny of all
persons interested in Japanese
pictorial art. The entire set of
sUchng-doors {fuswna) di-siding
room from room was painted by
Kan5 Tan-yii, from whose brush
also are folding-screens represent-
ing scenery in China, the four
seasons, children at play, etc. A

pair of screens with splendidly
coloiu-ed peacocks is by Okyo :
others by Kano Tanshin depict
popular occupations and trades.
The sepia drawing by Tan-yu of
a man exhibiting a dancing mon-
key, which occupies one wall of the
innermost room, is particularly
famous. An interesting old por-
trait bust in wood represents Ota
Nobunaga (see p. 81).

The Shinto shrine of Ota M)bu-
naga, on the slope of Funaoka-
yama, is prettily situated near
Daitokuji. The summit of the
hill, which can be reached in a
couple of minutes, commands a
fine panorama of the city and sivr-
rounding country.

This temple was built in 1880 by private
admirers of the hero, who is now wor-
shipped as a Shinto god.

Kinkakuji, more properly
Bokuonji, a temple of the Zen
sect, takes its popular name from
the kin-kaku, or "golden pavilion,"
in the gi-ounds attached to it.

In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who had
three years previously resigned the title
of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi-
mochi. obtained this jjlace from its
former owner, and after extending the
grounds, built himself a palace to serve
nominally as a retreat from the world.
Here he shaved bis head, and assumed
the garb of a Buddhist monk, while still
continuing in reality to direct the affairs
of state.

The garden is artistically laid
out. In the mid(lle is a lake with
pine-clad shores and pine-clad is-
lets, whose quiet charui none
would expect to find so near to a
large mecropohs. The lake is fuU
of a flowering plant called junsai
and is stocked with carp, which,
when ■visitors appear there, crowd
together at the stage below the
Pavihon, in expectation of being
fed. All the palace buildings have
disappeared. The Pavihon alone
remains, much dimmed by age.
It stands on the water's edge, fac-
ing S., and is a three-storied build-
ing, 33 ft. by 24 ft. In the lower

Kinkakuji. Toji-in.

331

room are gilt statuettes of Amida,
Kwannon, and Seishi by the carver
Unkei, and a seated effigy of Yoslii-
mitsu in priestly garb with shaven
pate. In the second storey is a
small Kwannon in an imitation
rock-work cave, vsith the Shi-
Tenno. The paintings on the
ceiling by Kano Slasanobu are now
scarcely recognisable. The third
storey was completely gilt, the gold
being laid on thickly over varnish
composed of hone po^vder and
lacquer upon hempen cloth. The
ceiling, walls, and floor were thus
treated ; and even the frames of
the sliding-screens, the railing of
the balcony, and the small project-
ing rafters which form the roof of
the balcony, were, as careful
examination will show, covered
with the precious metal. Nearly
all the gold has disappeared, but
the original woodwork is complete,
with the exception of a few decayed
boards that have had to be replaced.
The effect, now so dingy, must have
been dazzlingly beautiful. On the
top of the roof stands a bronze
phoiuix 3 ft. high, also formerly gilt.
The large hill seen to the r. from
the third storey of the Pavilion is
Kinukasa-ijum'i .

This name means Silk Hat ^Mountain,
and was given in allusion to the incident
of the ex-Mikado Uda having ordered it
to be spread with white silk one hot day
in July, ill order that his eyes at least
might enjoy a cool, wintry sensation.

The guide will probably offer to
lead the traveller round the
groimds at the back of the Pavilion,
where Yoshimitsu's footsteps and
doings are tracked with minute
care, — the place where His High-
ness drank tea, the place whence
the water for his tea came, the
place where he washed his hands,
etc. ; but these can have little in-
terest for any but a Japanese.
The Apartments, on the other
hand, deserve careful inspection,
on account of the sliding-screens
which they contain by Kano Tan-
yu and Jakuchvi, of the folding-

screens by Korin and Soami, of the
numerous kakemonos by Shubun,
Eishin, Okyo, Korin, Sesson, and
other celebrated artists, notably
two by Cho Densu representing
the three religious teachers, — Con-
fucius, Ohwang Tzii, and Buddha, —
besides various relics and auto-
graphs of the Ashikaga Shoguns
and other illustrious personages.
The priest who shows all these
treasures sometimes ends up by
treating the visitor to tea in the
cha-no-yu style.

Toji-in, founded in the 14th
century by Ashikaga Takauji, will
interest the historical student as
containing effigies of nearly all
the Shdguns of the Ashikaga dy-
nasty, beginning with Takauji in
the central chamber, — a lacquered
seated figure in the court-robe
called kariginu, with the courtier's
v/and (shaku) in the r. hand, and
wearing a tall black court caj)
[taka-eboshi). Opposite to him is
leyasu (of the Tokugawa dynasty).
In the next room are, beginning at
the 1., *(2) Yoshinori, (4) Yoshi-
mochi, (6) Y''oshinori 11., (8) Y'oshi-
masa, (10) Y'oshiteru, and (12)
Yoshizumi. The other room con-
tains the effigies of (3) Y'oshimitsu,
(7) Y'oshilvatsu, who died at the
age of ten, (9) I'oshinao, (11) Yoshi-
tane, (13) Yoshiharu, — a degene-
rate-looldng, dwarfish man, — and
(15) Y'oshiaki, fat and sensual in
apxjearance. Most, if not all, may
be accepted as contemporary por-
traits of the men thej' represent.
Observe that in their time (14th,
15th, and 16th centuries), the
Jajianese fashion was to wear a
moustache and small pointed beard.
The Apartments of this monastery
also contain various kakemonos by
Kano Tan-yir and other famous
artists. The sliding-sci'eens in
sepia are all by Kano Sanraku.
Those x-ound one of the rooms de-

* The numbers iu brackets refer to the
order of each iu the dynasty to which
they all belonged.

332

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

pict the acts of devotion of the
Foiir-and-Twenty Paragons of
Filial Piety.

During the period of ferment which
preceded the restoration of the Mikado's
authority, it was fashionable among the
opponents of the feudal regime to load the
memory of the Ashikaga Shoguns with
insults that could not safely be offered
in a direct manner to those of the reign-
ing Tokugawa line : and one morning in
April 1863, the people of Kyoto woke to
find the heads of the effigies of Takauji,
Toshinori, and Yoshimitsu pilloried in
the dry bed of the Kamogawa at the spot
where it was then usual to expose the
heads of the worst criminals. Several of
the men concerned in this affair were
thrown into prison, whence they were
transferred to the custody of certain
Daimyos, and not released for some years
afterwards,

Myoshinji.

This large temple of the Zen sect,
founded by Kwanzan Kokushi, an abbot
of the 14th century, was the place of
retreat of the Emperor Hanazono. Hence
the suji-hei (see Glossary) characteristic
of Imperial residences.

The spacious grounds are adorn-
ed with magnificent old pine-trees,
one of which dates from the year
1462. The temple buildings are
massive and well-preserved, and
contain a valuable collection of
screens, kakemonos, lacquer boxes,
and other treasures. In one square
building, called the Ilodo, the floor
is tiled, and two rows of large
wooden pillars support the ceiling,
which is entirely occupied by an
immense dragon from the pencil of
Tan-yu Morinobu. In another of
the same style, called Butsu-den,
some striking coloured images of
Shaka, Anan, and Kasho are seated
on a large altar backed by a plain
gold ground. The Kyodo contains
a huge octagonal revolving book-
case, on the sides of which are
some ancient and curious wood-
carvings by Chii-en of Buddhist
figures amidst rockery, — all colour-
ed and all in energetic attitudes.
The image seated in a chair is Fu
Daishi, specially appropriate to this
place (see p. 47). Leaving these,
we walk past the forty-two dwell-
ings formerly occupied by the

priests to what is called the Gyoko-
in, which was the Emperor Hana-
zono's retreat, and which, like the
other temple apartments, is pro-
fusely adorned with painted
screens by classic artists. Thence
to the Founder's Hall (Kaisando),
which is all black, — black tiles,
black pillars, a black lacquered
altar, — and finally to the tiny
Nehan-db, where, on the altar,
stands a bronze slab pourtraying
the entombment of Buddha.

Omuro Gosho, also called
Ninnnji, is a monastery founded
towards the end of his life by the
Mikado Koko (A.D. S85-7).

In 89U a decree was issued constitut-
ing Ninnaji a residence for " descendants
of the Wikado," or Monzeki, as they are
called, a term applied extensively in
later years to monasteries founded to
provide homes for various members of the
Imperial family, and also conferred as
a title of distinction upon abbots of other
than Imperial blood. In A.D. 899 the ex-
Mikado Uda chose it as his place of retire-
ment, and occupied the palace built for
him here from 901 until his death in 931.
The Mikado Shujaku entered the priest-
hood in 952, and took up his residence
here, but no other ex-sovereign ever occu-
pied it.

Omuro Gosho was bitrnt down in
1887, and though now counting
among the Imperial summer
palaces, has only been partially
restored. The grounds, which are
spacious, show to advantage during
the season of the cherry-blossom.
There is a fine five-storied pagoda,
which, with a few other of the
lesser buildings, escaped the fire.

Uzumasa, more properly called
Koryuji, stands far out of the city
at the end of the Nijo thoroughfare.

This very ancient Buddhist temple is
said to have been founded in AD. GUI
by Shotoku Taishi, who ccmsecrated it to
certain Buddhist gods whose images had
been brought from Korea. The principal
edifice called the Kodo, was however
not erected till 83G, and this having been
burnt down about 11.50, the [iresent struc-
ture was built out of tiuiber saved from
the flames. The other buildings are of
much later date, — 17th and 18th centuries.

This temple will have special
attraction for the student of Japa-

Uzumasa. Saga. Araslii-yama.

333

nese statuary.* Most of the speci-
mens are about life-size, or else
half life-size. The most interest-
ing of these wooden statues is
one of Shdtoku Taishi at the age
of thirty-three, said to have been
cai'ved by himself. It is clad in a
silken robe of Imperial yellow, pre-
sented by the Mikado at his ac-
cession, in accordance with ancient
custom. In its r. hand the image
holds the courtier's wand, in its 1.
a censer. Besides the yellow robe,
it wears wide trowsers of white silk
damask and a black court hat. The
features have a perfectly natural
expression, but the paint on the
face has become discoloured by
time. In the temporary Hondo are
the Buddhist images from Korea.
The most important of these is
a gilt wooden figure of Nyo-i-rin
Kwannon, about 3 ft. high, seated
upon a stool, the r. foot lifted and
laid on the 1. knee, the 1. hand
resting on the r. foot. The face is
supported on two long fingers of the
r. hand. Drapery formal. The
hair is drawn back from the fore-
head, and tied in a knob at the top.
The features, which are quite natur-
al, wear a pensive expression. The
hands are beautifully modelled, the
arms rather thin, though showing
a good idea of form ; but the
feet have been restored in a
clumsy manner. The gold has been
nearly all rubbed oii. Hound the
shrine are the "Twelve Divine
Generals " [Ju-ni-ten), who so
frequently accompany the god
Yakushi, of which latter there is
an image dating from the 9th
century. A curious feature is a
box about 1^ ft. square, containing
no less than 1,U00 microscopic
images of Jizo {Sen-iai Jizb).

Saga no Shaka-do, more pro-

* He will of course remember that many
of the specimens, though called Japanese,
are either Korean or else carved under
the instruction of Korean teachers. See
the very interesting opening pages of
Anderson's Catalogw, of Japanese and
Chinese Fuintings in the British, Museum.

perly called Setry-uji, is a large
temple of the Jodo sect of Bud-
dhists, to which boys and girls thir-
teen years old make a pilgrimage on
the 13th day of the 3rd moon, in
order to obtain wisdom, — a pU-
gi'image which accordingly goes by
the name of the Ju-san Mairi. The
present building is about two
centuries old. Behind the altar is
a magnificent gilt shrine of Shaka,
with painted carvings presented by
the mother of lemitsu, third Sh5-
gtm of the Tokugawa dynasty. On
the doors being opened, a curtain
is drawn up, which discloses an-
other set of doors, gilded and paint-
ed, and then a second curtain
splendidly embroidered. E. and
1. are seated images of Monju and
Fugen.

The image of Shaka is said to be Indian,
and to have been executed from life by
the sculptor Bishukatsuma ; but it has
more the appearance of a Chinese work.
Chouen, a monk of Todaiji at Nara, is
said to have brought it over in the year
987. According to the legend, it was
carved when Shaka Muni was absent
in the heaven called Tosotsu-Ten, preach-
ing to his mother, during which time
his disciples mourned over his ab-
sence. King Uten gave red sandal-wood
from his stores, aud the saint's portrait
having been drawn from memory by
Mokuren, the sculptor went to work and
speedily completed the statue, which was
placed in the monastery of Giou Shoja.
On the return of yhaka after an absence
of ninety days, the image descended the
steps to meet him, and they entered the
monastery together.

Araslii-yama (sometimes call-
ed Ranzan) is a picturesque gorge of
the river Katsura, here called the
Oigawa, and higher up the Hozu-
gawa. The hills are everywhere
covered with pine-trees. There are
also plantations of cherry-trees,
brought from Yoshino in the 13th
century by the Emperor Kame-
yiima, and of maple-trees which
add gi-eatly to the natural beauty
of the spot in spring and autumn.
The place boasts some good tea-
houses, especially the Sangen-ya
and Santomo. The rafts seen on
the river bring down timber from

334

Rou.ie 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

the proYince of Tamba. Hard by,
in the Till, of Saga, is Tenryuji,
formerly a vast congeries of temples
and priests' dwellings, of which,
however, a fire that took place
during the civil war of 1864 has left
but few remnants standing.

The Nijo Castle * {Nijo no
Eikyu).

This eite originally held a mansion
erected by Nobunaga iu A. D. 15G9 for
yoshiaki, the last of the Ashikaga
dynasty of Shoguns. The present edifice
dates from 1601, when leyaeii built it to
serve as a pied-ti-tcrre on the occasion of
his visits to Kyoto. During his time and
that of his successors, the Tokugawa
Shoguns, it was known as .Xijo no Shiro,
or the Nijo Castle On the 6th April,
18C8, the present Mikado, just re-invested
in his full ancestral rights by the re-
volution then in progress, here met the
Council of State, and in their presence
swore to grant a deliberative assembly
and to decide all measures by public
opinion. Afcer this, the Castle was for
some time used as the ofQce of the Kyoto
Prefecture, but was taken over in 1883 as
one of the Imperial summer palaces.
Though as many as possible of the wall
paintings, being on paper, were rolled up
and put away during the occupation of
the palace by the prefecture, much harm
was done to painted doors and to precious
metal-work by the almost incredible van-
dalism and neglect which ran riot at that
period all over Japan, when to deface
antique works of art was considered a
sign of civilisation and "progress." The
restoration of the Nijo Palace to some-
thing like its former splendour dates from
1885-6, at which time the Imperial crest
of the sisteen-petallert chrysanthemum
was substituted in most places for that
of the Tokugawa Shoguns.

This palace, a dream of golden
beauty within, is externally a good
example of the Japanese fortress,
with its turrets at the corners and
its wall of Cyclopean masonry. It
is only, however, a fi'action of its
former self. The xDresent building
is what was called the XI no maru,
or Second Keep, — the Ilommaru,
or Chief Kee'p, having been de-
stroyed by fire over a century ago.
Ai'iiving first at a fine gate called
Kara-mon or Yoisu-asM-mon, deco-
rated with exquisite metal-work
and gilt carvings, the visitor is

* Not accessible to the general public.

admitted through a side-door into
a court planted with j)ine-trees.
Opposite stands a second gate,
called 0 Kurtimn-yose, gorgeous
with gold and colours and curious
carvings of peonies and phoenixes,
attributed to Hidari Jingoro,
brought from Hideyoshi's famous
palace at Fushimi. Turning to
the r., the visitor is then admitted
to the Palace proper, where, having
signed his name in the book, he
is shown over the various suites of
rooms, the chief feature of which
is spaciousness, while the profuse
employment of gold as the ground
of the mural decorations, and the
unusual size and boldness of the
paintings on that gold ground give
to the whole an aspect of gi'andeur,
power, and richness rarely seen in a
country whose art, generally speak-
ing, restricts itself to the small and
the deHcate. All the wood used in
the construction is hinoki or keyaki ;
that of the doors is cryptomeria.
The gold-plated copper fastenings
used to hide naUs and bolts are
specially beautiful, being elaborate-
ly chased and ornamented. The
rooms are mostly named according
to the objects painted on the shding-
screens round the walls. Some
have willow-trees, some palm-trees
and tigers, some immense eagles
hovering over pine-trees life-size ;
others have fans, large baskets of
flowers, etc., all by artists of the
Kano school. The coffered ceilings,
too, where not injured, are very
handsome. The car-vings in the
ramma of some of the rooms are
exqmsitely minute. One pah in
particular, attributed to Hidari
Jingoro, in the suite called 0-
hiroma, which represents peacocks,
is a triumph of art. A pecuhaiity
of some of these carved ramma is
that, though apiseaiing to be open-
work and therefore identical on
both sides, the two sides are iu
reality quite different from each
other. Thus, where the obverse
has peacocks, the reverse will have
peonies. Most of the suites of

Nijo and Kalaiira Palaces.

335

apartments are connected by
wooden doors having fine, bold
paintings hj unknown artists. One
of these paintings is celebrated in
the artistic world under the name
of Naonohu no nare-sagi (" the wet
heron by Naonobn "). It represents
a heron perched on the gunwale of
a boat. During the reign of pre-
fectural vandalism, this precious
work of art vvas used as a notice-
board to paste notifications on !
The Sofeisu no Ma, or Palmetto
Eoom, was entirely and irrecover-
ably defaced at the same time.

The most sj^lendid apartment of
all is the Go Taimenjo, or Hall of
Audience, the last room in the suite
called (J-hiroma. It j)ositively
blazes and sparldes with gold ; and
the extraordinary size and boldness
of the pine-trees painted aU round
it produce, in their simphcity, an
imi)ression which, when the place
was the scene of the reception by a
Shogun of his prostrate vassals, the
Daimyds, must have been over-
whelming. They rej^resent chiefly
phrenixes, conventional f ohage, and
the Tokugawa crest. Notice the
two levels in the apartment. The
raised portion (jodan) was for the
Shogun, the lower {gedan) for
ordinary mortals. The last apart-
ment of the suite called Kuro-jo-m
is a smaller but equally gorgeous
reception-room ■ — all gold, with
double cherry-trees in full blossom.
Observe the two beautiful shelves
(chigai-dana), one of which shows
some rude early examples of
cloisonne work, — small medallions
with the Shogun's crest. The style
of decoration of the SJdro-jo-in, the
innermost suite of all, differs fi'om
the rest, the fusuma being of dull
gold painted in sepia with Chinese
scenes by Kano Koi. In the
garden outside this suite, the town
palace of the Katsura family (not
to be confounded with the Katsura
Summer Palace described below),
which formerly stood in another
part of Kyoto, was set up in 189.3,
being then intended for the Em-

press Dowager who did not live to
occupy it.

At the very end of the Palace
is another great Audience Hall,
called Chokushi no Ma, or Apart-
ment of the Imperial Envoys.
It is resplendent with gold and
gi'eat trees — peach, maple, etc. —
painted life-size, and has a beau-
tiful coffered ceiling and gilt metal
fastenings. The minor rooms
passed just before reaching it, and
decorated with wild-geese and
herons, were intended for Daimyos
to transact business in.

Katsura no Rikyxi* (Katsura
Summer Palace, not to be con-
founded with the Katsura Town
Palace now removed to the grounds
of Nijo).

Formerly this retreat belonged to the
Katsura family, a branch of the Imperial
House. It has now been taken over as a
summer palace or pleasure resort for the
Emperor himself.

One first goes round the Garden,
a perfectly rejiresentative example
of the best style of Japanese land-
scape gardening, as practised by
Kobori Enshii and the other aris-
tocratic enthusiasts, who, under the
general name of cha-no-jju, or " tea
ceremonies," cultivated all the arts
from which esthetic enjoyment
can be derived. The summer-
houses in this garden are in the
cha-no-yu style, — rigidly plain and
primitive, as its canons ordain.
Then too there are pools, artificial
streams, rustic bridges, large step-
ping-stones brought from the two
extremities of the empire, trees
trained in artificial shapes, islets,
moss-clad hillocks, stone lanterns.
The lake is full of a water-plant
called kohone (marsh marigold),
which generally bears only yeUow
Howers, but here has red ones as
well.

The building itself is a ram-
shackle place, not diffei-ing in style
from any orchuary Japanese house.
Only those vnil care to inspect it

*Not accessible to the general public.

336

Route 85. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

to whom every pencil -stroke of the
artists of the Kano school, especial-
ly Kano Tan-yu, is precious. The
walls are decorated by these artists,
chiefly in sepia ; but most of the
paintings are in a very bad state of
preservation. The square bamboo
frame outside the verandah is
called Tsuki-mi-dai, that is, " the
Moon-gazing Platform," from the
circumstance that it was used by
the inmates to sit out on and
watch the moon rising over the
pine-trees.

Toji.

The existing structures date from
about 1640. Close to this temple
in ancient times stood the city gate
called Rash 07)1011, the scene of a portion
of the legend of the Ogre of Oeyama
(see Japanese Fairy Tale Series). Ano-
ther legend attaches to the pagoda itself.
This edifice, it is averred, after com-
pletion, began to lean to one side. Kobo
Daishi, nothing daunted, prayed that it
might be restored to the vertical posi-
tion, and forthwith the pagoda stood
straight. A more rationalistic version of
the story is that Kobo Daishi corrected
the tendency of the tower to lean to one
side by digging a pond on the other;
and a pond full of lotuses is shown to
this day as a mute witness to the truth
of the legend.

Tomists are advised to -visit this
temple on the 21st day of the
month, when the festival of Kobo
Daishi is held. There is also a
pretty procession of girls (tayu no
dochu) on the 2 1st April. At other
times the place is apt to look dreary.
Most of the buildings are in a rude
style, with mud floors, pillars and
beams coloured red with oxide of
iron, and white plaster walls.
Several of the images are attributed
to the chisel of Kobo Daishi. The
great artistic attraction of the place
is the exquisite lacquer behind the
altar.

The Sliint5 Temple of Inari

(Inari no Yashiro) stands on the
road to Fushimi, close to the rail-
way station.

The very popular Shinto temple, the
prototype of the thousands of Inari tem-
ples scattered all over the country, was
founded in A.D. 711, when the Goddess of

Rice is fabled to have first manifested
herself on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi
is said to have met an old man in the vici-
nity of Toji carrying a sheaf of rice on
his baclf, whom he recognised as the deity
of this temple, and adopted as the " Pro-
tector " of that monastery. Hence the
name Inari, which signifies " Rice-man,"
and is written with two Chinese charac-
ters meaning "rice-bearing." The first
temple consisted of three small shrines
on the three peaks of the hill behind,
whence the sanctuaries of the goddess and
her companion deities were removed to
the present site in 1'246. Inari is said to
have assisted the famous smith Kokaji to
forge one of his mighty swords, and to
have here cut the rock with it in order to
try its blade, — a legend which forms the
subject-matter of one of the No. or Lyric
Dramas, Hence this temple is regarded
with special reverence by swordsmiths
and cutlers. The best time to visit Inari
is on the occasion of the double annual
festival held on two days in early May,
which fall differently each year. On the
first of these, the procession of sacred
cars goes to what is called the O Tahi-
sho, or " travelling station," near the tem-
ple of Toji, and on the second it comes
back again. Throughout the year, on the
Days of the Horse and the Serpent,
devotees make the circuit of the mountain
{Oyavia suru), and crowds of them may
be often found marching up and down
all night long.

The chief entrance is by the great
red torii on the main road, then up
a flight of steps, and through a
large gate flanked by huge stone
foxes to the empty Haiden, or
Oratory. Thence one comes to the
chief shrine {Honden), passing 1. the
ex-voto shed and r. the kagura
stage, and further on two stone
foxes on pedestals, with wire cages
to prevent them from being defiled
by birds. The pillars of the portal
of the chief shrine are plain ; but
the rest of the walls and pillars are
painted rod or white. Curtains
(misu) hang down in front, and
ijefore each of the six compart-
ments is susijended a large metal
mirror abo^^t 18 inches in diameter.
Two gilt koma-inu and ama-inu
guard the extremities of the ve-
randah. They have bright blue
manes, and on the legs, locks of
hair tij)ped with bright green.
Behind, to the r., is a white godown
in which the sacred cars are usually

Temples of Inari, Tofukuji, and Sen-yuji.

337

kept. They are celebrated for the
great value of their decoration in
gold, silver, copper, and iron. The
plain building to the extreme 1. is
the temple office [Shamusho).

A path to the 1. leads up to a
second level space, where stand
varioiis insignificant shrines ; then
up another flight of steps to a
shrine called K<m%i no Yashiro, and
thence up to the small Oku-no-in
through more than 400 small red
wooden torii, placed so close toge-
ther as to form two nearly parallel
colonnades, one ascending, the
other descending. Beyond the
Oku-no-in, begins 1. what is termed
the Hora-megvri, or " Circuit of the
Mountain Hollows," on account of
various fox-holes by the way.
Kather than make the entire cir-
cuit, wliich is a good ri in length
and will take at least 1 hr., visitors
pressed for time will do well to
strike oflE r. to a place where there
is a little tea-house {Sasayama-iei),
on the top of a minor hill com-
manding a good view. This point
can be reached in J hr. from the
entrance to the temple grounds.
On the way are passed large stone
boulders with inscriptions, and
walls round them, and numerous
torii in front of each. At each of
these " boulder shrines " is a large
tea-shed. The top is caUed Ichi-no-
mine, or more popularly Suehiro-
san. One descends another way,
the view just below the summit
being particularly fine towards the
S., including Uji with its river, the
Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi,
Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the
other side the swamp of Ogura, the
Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and
the Yodogawa. On the way down
are a shrine called Choja no Jinja, a
number of sacred boulders as be-
fore, and some fox-holes called 0
Samba, supposed to be the places
in which the vixens give birth to
their yoimg. Just above the latter,
2 cho off the road, a fine view of
the city is obtained. The path is
good the whole way. This moun-

tain is celebrated for producing the
best mushrooms {matsu-take) in
Japan. The streets in the neigh-
bourhood of the temple are cram-
med with httle earthenware dolls
and effigies called Fushimi ninijijo.

On the 5th Jiine, horse-races and
equestrian feats may be witnessed
at Inari, the riders coming up thus
far north from another ancient
temple, shghtly off the Kara road,
called Fuji-no-mori, where a festival
is held on that day.

Tofukuji, one of the chief
monasteries of the Zen sect, was
founded by Shoichi Kokushi in the
13th century. It is noted for the
maple-trees lining both sides of a
gully, which is spanned by a bridge
or gallery called Tsu-ien-kyo, that is,
" the Bridge to Heaven." This gal-
lery and a tower in the roof give to
Tofukuji an original and striking
appearance. Of the formerly very
extensive buildings, only a few
now remain. The temple contains
some good wooden images, and a
number of wondeiiul kakemonos of
the Five Hundred Rakan by the
famous artist Cho Densu, who
spent his long life here as a monk.
But its greatest treasure is a huge
kakemono by the same artist of
Shaka's Entry into Nirvana
(Nehan-zo), 24 ft. by 48 ft. It is
dated 1408. Unfortunately the art
treasures of this temple are only
properly to be seen during a single
day in summer (date not fixed),
when they are aired. A few are
exposed on the 17th Nov., — the
festival of the Founder, — and the
gi'eat Ch5 Densu on the 15th March.

Seii-y€lji hes in a hollow sur-
rotmded by pine-clad hills. It is
remarkable as having been for over
six centm-ies the buiial-place of the
iVIikados ; but as neither their
tombs nor the various treasm-es of
the temple ;.re shown, there is
little object in visiting it. The
ghmpse which can be caught of
the mortuary shrine of Komei Ten-
no, father of the present Emperor,
shows it to be handsome.

338

Roatti 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

The chief treasure of Sen-yuji is one of
Buddha's teeth, said to have been brought
from China by the third abbot, Tanbai.
The story goes that as soon as the Buddha
died, a demon, named Soshikki stole this
tooth and ran away with it, but was pur-
sued by the god Ida-Ten, and forced to re-
store the precious relic. Sixteen centuries
later, the god presented it to a Chinese
priest from whom it passed into Tan-
kai's hands. It is kept in a beautifully
designed reliquary of gilt metal in the
shape of a isagoda, about 3 ft. high, the
upper part being of Chinese, and the plat-
form on which it stands of Japanese work-
manship, dating from the Ashikaga period
(14th-16th centurie.>i). The tooth is enor-
mous, and evidently belonged to some
large quadruped, probably a horse. It is
exhibited to public worship only ou the
8th October.

The insignificant little wooden
bridge passed betvreen Tofukiiji
and Sen-ytiji deseiTes a word of
mention. It is called Yume no
Uki-hasM, or the Floating Bridge
of Dreams, and is the place where,
on the occasion of an Imperial
interment, the frnit, cakes, and
other perishable offerings to a dead
ilikado are thrown away into the
riTulet below, as the procession
marches slowly at midnight to-
wards the place of sepulture. All
the minntiiB of such a ceremony
were punctiliously observed at the
interment of the Empress Dowa-
ger in 1897.

San-ju-san-gen-do, the Tem-
ple of the 33,333 images of Kwan-
non, the Goddess of Mercy.

Founded in 1132 by the ex-Emperor
Toba who placed in it 1,001 images of
Kwannon, to which the Emperor Go-
Shirakawa afterwards added as many
more in 1166, it was completely destroyed
with all its contents in l'i49. In 1266 the
Emperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled
it with images of the Thousand-handed
Kwannon to the number of l.OuO. Its
dimensions are 389 ft. by 57 ft. In 1662
the Shogun letsuna restored the building,
which takes its name not from its length,
but from the thirty-three sjjaces between
the pillars, which form a single row from
end to end.

Quite unique is the impression
produced by this immensely elon-
gated edifice, with its vast com-
pany of gilded images rising tier
above tier. Each image is 5 ft.

high, and all represent the Eleven-
faced Thousand-handed Kwannon.
There are 1,000 of these, the total
number of 33,333 being obtained by
including in the computation the
smaller effigies on the foreheads,
on the halos, and in the hands of
the larger ones. Three hundred of
the large images were e.x;ecuted by
Kokei and Koei, two hundred by
Unkei, and the remainder by
Shichijo Dai-busshi. Though all
represent the same divine person-
age, it Mill be found that in spite
of the general resemblance, no two
have quite the same arrangement of
hands and articles held in them.
The large seated figure in the centre
is also a Kwannon, while standing
round it are Kwannon's Eight-and-
twenty Follov/ers {Bushu).

Tradition says that the ex-^Iikado Go-
Shirakawa being troubled ■with severe
headaches which resisted all the usual
remedies, made a pilgrimage to the
shrines of Kumano to pray for relief.
He was directed by the gods to apply to a
celebrated Indian physician then residing
at a temple in the capital. On returning
he at once proceeded thither, and became
absorbed in prayer until midnight, when
a monk of noble mien appeared, and
informed him that in a previous state of
existence His Majesty had been a pious
monk of Kumano named Eeuge-bo, who
for his merits had been promoted to the
rank of Mikado in this present life ; but
that his former skull was lying at the
bottom of a river still undissolved, and
that out of it grew a willow-tree which
shook whenever the wind blew, thereby
causing His Majesty's head to ache. On
awaking from this vision, the ex-Mikado
sent to search for the skull, and having
found it, caused it to be enclosed in the
head of the principal Kwannon of this
temple.

It used formerly to be the custom
for skilful archers to try how many
arrows they could shoot from one end
to the other of the verandah on the W.
front of the building. This was called
6-ya-kazu, or the "greatest number of
arrows."

In a wide road behind the
Thirty-thiee Thousand Buddhas
stands the temple of

Chishaku-in.

This temple was brought here at the
end of the 16th century from Jfegoro-ji
in Kishii, after the persecution which

Art Museum. TIu; Daihatsu.

339

that splendid ecclesiastical establish-
ment suffered at tbe hands of Ota Nobii-
naga.

The spacious Apartments contain
miscellaneous antiquities and ex-
cellent kakemonos, screens, etc., by
classic artists. Kano Nobuharu
painted the large flowers and birds
on a gold ground in the back suite.
The last room — a new one dating
from 1895 — serves for the reception
of guests on funeral and other
ceremonial occasions. The Garden,
by Sen-no-Eikyii, shows to best
advantage in the azalea season.

The Art Museum {Teikoku
Kyoto Hakuhutsu-kvmn).

Open daily in summer from 7.30 A.M.
to 5.30 P.M. ; in winter from 8 to 4, ex-
cept on the 10th, 20th, and last of every
month, and from 20th December to Ist
January. Most of the exhibits, except-
ing the larger and more precious ar-
ticles, are changed thrice monthly during
the days of recess.

The distribution of the contents
is as follows : —

1. Entrance Halt. — Ancient wooden
Buddhist sta,tues and masks.

2. Room beyond Entrance. — Statues
in wood and bronze.

3. Boom I. of Entrance. — Ancient
lacquer and embroidery.

4. End Room. — Ancient porcelain
and small bronze objects. Then
turning r.,

5. Room containing coins, potte-
ry, musical instruments, and
cha-no-yu utensils ; priests' and
actors' robes.

6. End Room. — Armour, weapons,
and war trophies, including
Chinese flags.

7. Imjperial robes, boxes, and
palanquin, the Mi-chodai, or
Curtain Throne of the Mikado. —
Instead of re-entering Koom No.
2 r., turn 1. to a wing beginning
with

8. Uninteresting modern objects.

9. Porcelain old and new.

10. Miscellaneovis, mostly modern.
Then turn r. to

11. Ancient manuscripts.

12. Ancient coloured scrolls and
kakemonos.

13. Buddhistic ditto.

14. Ancient Buddhistic kakemonos
and manuscripts.

15. Ancient kakemonos, scrolls, and
manuscripts.

16. Ancient Buddhist images.

Immediately behind the Art
Museum are the Shinto temple of

Hiyoshi Jinja and the Bud-
dhist temple of Myoho-in, the
latter containing numerous art
objects and relics of Hideyoshi.

Daibutsu, or the Great Buddha.

Ever since 1588, some colossal image
of Buddha has stood on this spot ; but
one after another has been destroyed
by fire, earthquake, or lightuing. The
present wooden figure dates from 1801.
Subscriptions, however, are being col-
lected for the erection of a better one
of copper.

The Daibutsu consists only of a
head and shoulders -WTithout a body;
but even so, it reaches to the ceil-
ing of the lofty hall in which it is
kept. The head is gilt, but not the
shoulders. The dimensions are
stated as follows : —

Height 58 ft.

Length of face 30 „

Breadth of face 21 „

Length of eyebrow 8 „

Length of eye 5 „

Length of nose 9 „

Breadth of nostril 2 „ 3 in.

Length of mouth 8 „ 7 „

Length of ear 12 „

Breadth of shoulders ... 43 „

Round the walls hang 188 cheap
modern pictures of Kwannon
painted on paper, each inscribed
with a stanza of poetry. There are
also some large pieces of iron, relics
of the pillars of a former building.
At the top of a gallery behind the
image is a rude altar containtng a
black image of Fudo, which the
great warrior Hideyoshi earned
about as a tahsman. By going
round this gallery, one sees into the
inside of the image, which is hollow,
but contains a quantity of beam-
work.

The huge Bell, seen on quitting

340

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

the Daibutsu, is nearly 14 ft. high,
9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and
weighs over 63 tons, being thus one
of the two biggest bells in Japan,
and larger than that of Ta-chung-
szii in Peldng, which has been
accounted the largest suspended
bell in the world. Its companion
in size is at Chion-in, also in
Kyoto. That at Nara comes third.
The Daibutsu bell hangs in a belfry
dating from 1884, plain but for a
ceiling which is gaudily decorated
with paintings of Buddliist angels.

The Shinto shrine, called Toyo-
kuni no Yashiro, or Hokoku Jinja,
near to the belfry on the 1. as one
departs, is dedicated to Hideyoshi.
The handsome gate, which is an
old one, was brought from his
palace of Momoyama at Fushimi.
Hideyoshi hes buried on the hill
behind, called Amida-mine, where a
granite monument 27 ft. high, of
the sotoha shape (see p. 44), was
set up in 1898 to commemorate
the tercentenary of his death. The
fatiguing climb up is rewarded by
a fine view of the city and neigh-
bourhood.

Opposite Hideyoshi's temple is
the Mimi-zuka, or Ear Mound,
beneath which were interred the
ears and noses of Koreans slain in
the wars which he waged against
their country in the years 1592 and
1597. They were brought home
by his soldiers instead of the more
usual trophies of heads.

Nishi Hong-wanji, the head-
quarters of the Western branch of
the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists, is
a grand massive structure, as usual
with the temples of this sect. The
principal gate is decorated with
beautifully carved designs of the
chrysanthemum flower and leaf.
The wire netting covering its inte-
rior part is placed there, as in a
good many other edifices, in order
to prevent birds from building their
nests among the rafters. The ap-
parently useless wall just inside
the gate serves the purpose of
securing privacy for the temple by

shutting out the view from the
street. The large tree (a Oingko
biloba, Jap. icho) in the courtyard
is supposed to protect the temple
against fire, by discharging showers
of water whenever a conflagration
in the vicinity threatens danger.
The interior of the main building
is 138 ft. in length by 93 ft. in
depth, and the floor covers an area
of 477 mats. In accordance with
ancient custom, the nave (gejin)
is of perfectly plain keyaki wood.
There are great wooden doors with
beautifully chased metal fasten-
ings, and at the sides large paper-
shdes scarcely worthy of their
surroundings. The bracketings
above the massive columns are
tipped with white. R. and 1. of the
chancel are two spacious chambers
24 ft. by 36 ft., with gilt pillars and
walls, decorated with the lotus-
flower and leaf. In them hang
large kakemonos nearly 200 years
old, inscribed with invocations to
Amida in large gold characters on
a dark blue ground surrounded by
a glory, and portraits of the succes-
sive heads of the sect. The front
of the nave is completely gUt, and
has gilt trellised folding-doors and
sliding-screens decorated ynth. snow
scenes, representing the plum-tree,
pine, and bamboo in their winter
covering, the ramma being filled
with gilt open-work carvings of
the peony. The cornice is decorat-
ed with coloured arabesques. In
the centre of the chancel (naijin)
is the shrine, covered with carved
floral designs gilt and painted. It
contains a seated effigy in black
wood of the Founder, about 2 ft.
high, said to be from his own hand.
Before it stands a wooden altar, the
front of which is divided into small
panels of open-work flowers and
birds against a gilt background.
The central apartment has a fine
cornice of gilt and painted wood-
work, and a coffered ceiling with
the nhippo and hana crest on a gold
ground. The dim light renders
much of the detail obscui-e. The

Nishi Hongwanji Temple.

341

building was erected about 1591 or
1592, and the decorations have been
since renewed every fifty years.

Next to the main temple, but of
smaller dimensions, is the Kodo
or Amida-do, 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in
depth, divided in the same way,
but having only one apartment,
30 ft. by 36 ft., on each side of the
central chapel, with a dead-gold
wall at the back, and a coffered
ceiling with coloured decorations
on paper. Fancy portraits of Sho-
toku Taishi and the " Seven Great
Priests of India, China, and Japan,"
including Ilonen Shonin, founder
of the Jodo sect, from which the
Shin or Hongwanji sect is an off-
shoot, hang in these two apart-
ments. A handsome shrine, with
slender gilt pillars and a design
composed of the chrysanthemum
flower and leaf, contains a gilt
wooden statuette of Amida, about
3 ft. high, so much discoloured by
age as to look quite black. It is
attributed to the famous sculptor
Kasuga. Busshi. Over the gilt
carvings of tree-peonies in the
ramma are carvings of angels in
full relief. A sliding-screen close
to the entrance on the r. of the
altar, painted with a peacock and
pea-hen on a gold gi'ound, perched
on a peach-tree with white blos-
soms, by an artist of the Kano
school, deserves special notice.

The State Apartments of the
Nishi Hongwanji are the finest of
any temple in Kyoto, and nowhere
else can the decorative genius of
the Kand school be seen to such
advantage. The plan now usually
followed by the guides is to take
visitors first to these Apartments,
before inspecting the temple proper.
One enters by what is known as the
Daidokoro Mon, or Edtchen Gate,
outside which is a seminary for
young priests, and then passes
through another splendidly carved
gate brought from Momoyama and
called Chokushi Mon, or Gate of the
Imperial Messenger, — also Hi-
gurashi no Man, because a whole

day might be spent in examining
it. The carvings are attributed to
Hidari Jingoro. The subject on the
transverse panels is Kyo-yo (Hsii-
yn), a hero of early Chinese legend,
who, having rejected the Emperor
Yao's proposal to resign the throne
to him, is represented washing his
ear at a waterfall to get rid of the
pollution caused by the ventilation
of so preposterous an idea ; the
owner of the cow opposite is sup-
posed to have quarrelled with him
for thus defiling the stream, at
which he was watering his beast.
Entering the Apartments, we
inspect : —

1. Cedar doors painted by Yoshi-
mura Kokei, with an eagle and
oak-tree on one side and a
cascade on the other.

2. A lovely httle_ room decorated
by Maruyama Ozui with bam-
boos and sparrows on a gold
ground, and having a coffered
ceiling of flowers. This gold
ground and brilliant decoration
characterise the whole palace, —
for palace it really is. The creak-
ing of the floor of the gaUey,
here and further on, is compared
by the Japanese to the voice of a
nightingale {uguisu-bari) !

3. Cedar doors, painted with mon-
keys and flower-cars by Kano
Byokei.

4. Chamber of the Wild-geese,
painted by the same. Notice
the splendid ramma of wild-geese,
natural size and colour, between
this room and the next.

5. Chrysanthemum Chamber, by
Kaihoku Yusetsu (1595-1677).
The other flowers here represent-
ed are the "Seven Herbs of
Autumn " (see Things Japanese,
article entitled " Numerical Cate-
gories ").

6. Cedar doors with musk-cats
and sago-palms on the one side,
and horses and hinoki on the
other, — by Kano Hidenobu.

7. Ante-room or verandah. The
fans here are by Kano K5i and
Kaihoku Yusetsu.

342

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

8. Cedar doors with a cat asleep
under peonies on one side, and
herons and a willow-tree on the
other, by Kano Kyotaku.

9. A gi'and suite in two sets of
three rooms each, all decorated
by Kano Koi with Chinese court
scenes. Observe the metal
fastenings chased with designs
of lions and peonies. The rain-
ma has peonies and phoenixes.
This suite, known as Shiro-jo-in,
formerly occupied by royalty, is
now used by the abbot to receive
the faithful. Opposite one set of
rooms is a stage for the perform-
ance of the No dramas.

10. Ante-room. A flowery moor,
by Kaihoku Yusetsu.

11. Cedar doors with dog and
drums, by Kano Rydtaku.

12. Dressing-room wdth hunting
scenes, by Kaihoku Yusetsu.

13. Cedar doors painted by the
same, with a hod on one side and
on the other the mortal combat
between Atsumori and Kumagai
Naozane (see p. 78).

14. Ante-room or galleiy by the
same with wistarias, and on the
ceiling, books and scrolls.

15. Stork Chamber, so called from
the storks in the ramma by
Hidari Jingoro. lliis magnificent
hall of 250 mats, decorated by
Kan5 Tan-yti and Eyokei with
Chinese court scenes, birds, and
trees, now serves for the abbot to
preach in twice monthly. Splen-
did metal fastenings on the
black lacquer. In the court out-
side is another No theatre, restor-
ed in 1896.

16. Cedar doors with deer and
maple-trees on one side and a
dragon on the other, by Yoshi-
vixvcA Ranshti.

The final rooms, Nos. 17 to 20,
are not always shown, because less
fine and partly inhabited. No. 17
is called Tailed Kubi-jikktu no Ma,
that is, the room where Hideyoshi
used to inspect the heads of his
opponents lolled in battle, with
drums painted on the ceihng by

Kano Eitoku, and gilt open-work
carvings of flying squnrels and
grapes in the ramvna. No. 18 has
waves by Y'oshimura Kokei and
Kano Eitoku. No. 19 has quite a
menagerie of tigers by Eitoku, now
much effaced, and No. 20 has more
tigers by two artists of the Y'^oshi-
mura family.

The visitor is next conducted to
the Garden, which is much less
interesting, and if time permits, he
may conclude his inspection of the
Hongwanji by going over the Hi-
un-kaku, or Pavilion of the Fly-
ing Ciovids, containing Hideyoshi's
tea-room, bath-room, and rest-
chamber, and decorated in a much
more subdued style than the rest
by Sanraku and other Kano artists.
In one of the upper rooms is a
sketch on a gold-paper ground
called the Gyogi no Fuji, or Fuji of
Good Manners, because the outlines
can hardly be distingiiished unless
the spectator takes up a I'espectf rd
kneehng attitude on the floor.

Higaslai Hongwanji.

This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hon-
gwanji, was founded in 1C92, and destroy-
ed by fire in 1864 during the unsuccessful
attempt made by the followers of the
Daimyo of Choshu to seize the person of
the Mikado. The new edifice was com-
pleted in 1895. Only the actual temple
buildings are shown, not the Apartments,
because, though very spacious, they
contain no ancient works of art.

Notwithstanding what has often been
alleged with regard to the recent decay of
Japanese Buddhism, the rebuilding of
this grand temple was a strictly popular
enterprise. All the surrounding prov-
inces contributed their quota — over a
million yen in all — while many peasants,
considering gifts in kind to be more
honourable and, as it were, more
personal than gifts in money, present-
ed timber or other materials. The
timbers were all lifted into place by
twenty-nine gigantic hawsers made of
human hair (ke-zuna), which are still
presei-ved in a godown. The name of
the architect of the main building is
Ito Heizaemon, a native of Owari. The
Auiida-do is by Kinoko Tosai, a citizen
of Kyoto.

This magnificent temple, dazzling
in its simple splendoiu", well merits
a visit, as showing what such an

Nishi Otani Temple. Kiyomizu-dera.

34i

edifice looks like when new. So
far ns plan and style are concern-
ed, the orthodox model of the tem-
ples of the Hongwanji sect has been
faitlifuUy atlhered to, both in the
Daishi-do, or Founder's Hall (the
main btiilding), and in the sub-
sidiary Amida-do to the 1. The
former, however, is peculiar in
possessing two roofs. Note the
splendid bronze lanterns, four in
number, namely, one pair at each
entrance. The wood of all such
portions of the temple as are meant
to meet the eye is keyaki, excepting
the beams in the ceihng which are
of pine. There are some good
carvings the signs of the zodiac,
of waves, of bamboos, dragons, and
angels ; and paintings of lotus-
flowers of gigantic size on a gold
gi'ound. The two Chinese charac-
ters on the tablet over the high
altar represent the name Kenshin,
that of the founder of the sect (see
p. 83 under Shinran Shonin). The
chief dimensions of the main build-
ing, probably the largest in Japan,
are approximately as follows : —

Length 230 ft.

Depth 195 „

Height 126 „

Number of large pillars 96
Number of tUes on roof 175,967

On leaving the Higashi Hongwan-
ji, observe the gigantic bronze
water- vase and the simple but ele-
gant belfry.

Nishi Otani is the burial-place
of the larger portion of the body of
Shinran Shonin, transfen-ed here
in 1G03 from a spot now included
within the gi'ounds of Chion-in.
The stone bridge spanning the
lotus-pond is called Megane-bashi,
from its resemblance to a pair of
spectacles. Several of the orna-
mental knobs on the balustrade can
be turned round. An inclined way
paved with granite and a flight of
steps lead up to the handsome
Main Gate, inside which 1. stands,
as usual in the temi^les of this sect,
the Tmko-do, a handsomely carved

two-storied structure, which is used
as a place of confinement for
refractory priests, and receives its
name from the drum [taiko] which
they are set to beat as a penance.
There are two or three handsome
bronzes in front of the main temj)le,
— a new building plain outside, but
with a sufficiently handsome inte-
rior, a strildng efEect being produced
by the restriction of gold orna-
mentation to the vicinity of the
altar. A gilt figure of Amida stands
in a gold lacquer shrine.

In the court behind is an oflice
for the reception of the ashes of
members of the sect from all parts
of the country, whose relations pay
to have their remains deposited
with those of Shinran Shonin, in-
stead of going to the expense of a
monument in the adjacent ceme-
tery. The Kyoto members, on the
contrary, are interred in the ceme-
tery. Opposite is the oratory in
front of the tomb, which is so
concealed behind a triple fence as
to be invisible. The path up the
hill leads through the cemetery to
the W. gate of the temple of

Kiyomizu-dera.

The origin of this popular temple sacred
to Kwannon is lost in the mists of antiqui-
ty. According to tradition, the great
general Tamura Maro (see p. 85), gave
his own house to be pulled down and
re-erected in the goddess's honour, for
which reason his naemory is here special-
ly revered, as is that of the greatest
soldier of later times, Hideyoshi.

A steep street of shops, where
brightly coloured earthenware dolls
[Eiyomizu-yaki), amusingly varied
and up-to-date, are to be had, leads
up to the temple, which is situat-
ed in a striking position on the
hillside, and commands a justly
celebrated view of the city. The
two-storied gateway at the toji of
tlie steps dates from the Ashikaga
period, and was restored a bright
brick red in 1897. Besides tMs gate
there are two pagodas each three-
storied, and a large green bell
dating from the Kwan-ei period

344

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

(1624-M), to which succeed numer-
ous minor temple buildings. The
visitor then passes up through
a colonnade to the Hoiwio or
Main Temple, whose rough-hewn
columns and bare floor produce an
unusual impression. Indeed the
•whole aspect of Kiyomizu is origi-
nal and unique.

This arises partly from the fact that
the nsual style of Japanese Buddhist
architecture is here departed from, Ki-
yomizu is not a temple in form, but a
reproduction of one wing of the Emperor
Kwammu's palace at Nagaoka.

The sacred image of the EleTen-
faced Thousand-handed Kwannon,
a little over 5 ft. high, is contained
in a shiine opened only once in
thirty-three years. E. and 1. are
images of the Eight-and-twenty
Followers of Kwannon, and at each
end of the platform stand two of
the Shi-Tenno. The shrine at the
E. end contains an image of Bisha-
mon, who, as tradition tells us,
appeared to Tamura Maro in com-
pany with Jizo (whose image, attri-
buted to the sculptor Enchin, is
enclosed in the W. shrine), and
promised him aid in his expedition
against the Ainos of N.E. Japan.
Pictures of the three hang at one
end of the inner shrine. The
building is 190^- ft. long by 88|
ft. in depth, and 53 ft. in height
from the jjlatform. It has a wooden
platform in front, called butai
(dancing-stage), supported on a
lofty scaffolding of solid beams,
and two small projecting wings
which serve as the orchestra
{gakuya).

The 17th August is the great gala day
here, when a classical concert is perform-
ed by musicians habited in various an-
tique costumes, seated opposite each
other in each wing, like the two sides
of a choir. This, the chief festival of
the whole year, is called Rokusai Nem-

biltSU.

On the dancing-stage, extending
the whole length of its front, abuts
an open hall full of ex-voto pic-
tures, some of which possess artistic

merit and historic interest. The
immense one on a gold ground
fronting the main altar is by
Kaihoku Yiisetsu, and pourtrays
Tamura Maro's victory over the
Ainos. The three next it to the r.
represent meetings of Japanese and
Dutch merchants in the years
1624-G, on board Japanese junks of a
vanished type. The portion of the
temple screened off consists of a
corridor called Xaijin, to which
admittance is sometimes granted,
and an enclosure or Holy of Hohes
containing the altar proper, which
is called JS'ai-naijin, and never
allowed to be entered save by the
priests, who perform a highly
ornate ritual.

Leaving the main temple, we see
1., immediately behind it on a sUght
eminence, the Jishu Jinja, or
" Temple of the Original O^miers of
the _Sol1," namely, the Shinto dei-
ties Onamuji, Susa-no-o, and Inada-
Hime. It has been stripped of its
ornaments, and is not worth going
up to inspect. Passing on, we see
1. a small eleven-storied pagoda,
and then reach the Oku-no-'m build-
ings, the first of which to aiTest
attention is that dedicated to
Honen Shonin, which is one of the
gems of Kyoto. It counts among
the Twenty-five Places sacred to
that saint, and dates from 1858.
It is separated fi'om the Oku-no-in
by a shed containing a hundred
stone images of Jizo, — quaint Httle
things with coloured bibs, for
which childless people or people
whose children are dead have a
special devotion. The style of the
Oku-no-in repeats that of the Hon-
do on a smaller and less complete
scale. Some recluses of both sexes
inhabit the rooms beyond it to-
wards the precipice. The small
cascade below is called Otowa-no-
taki. On returning outwards, the
visitor will perhaps be shown some
gigantic footprints attributed to
Kagekiyo (see p. 76).

The Yasaka Pagoda, five sto-
reys high, ^\•bich dates from 1618,

Temple of Kodaiji.

345

is worth ascending for tlie sake of
the near and complete view which
it affords of the city ; but the
ladder is unpleasantly steep for
ladies. This pagoda, like many
others in Japan, is dedicated to
four Nyorai, namely, Hojo on the
S., Amida on the W., Ashviku on
the E., and Shaka on the N. On
the eight panels of the doors are
paintings on a thin coating of
plaster. Of the four images, that
of Shaka alone is old. The interior
walls and pillars of the basement
are painted with highly coloured
Buddhist deities.

Kodaiji, noted for its relics of
Hideyoshi, belongs to the Rinzai
branch of the Zen sect.

Founded in A.D. 838, it underwent
many vicissitudes, and was rebuilt in
160.5 by Hideyoshi's widow, in order that
services might be ijcrfornied there for
the benefit of the souls of Hideyoshi and
his mother. In IStsa some swashbucklers
set the principal buildings on fire,
because it was announced that the es-
Dainiyo of Echizen, whom they looked
upon as inimical to the Mikado's party,
was about to take up his quarters there.
Most of the buildings perished on this
occasion ; but some few, together with the
fine garden, still remain.

The visitor Is first ushered into
the Apartments, which, though of
modest proportions, contain some
good woi'ks of art. There are gold
screens by Kano Motonobu, Kano
Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku. One
by Matahei is very curious, as re-
presenting the arrival of Korean
envoys at Sakai, while a brilliant
but anonymous kakemono depicts
the Chinese Emperor Shin-no-
Shikd. There are also various rehcs
of Hideyoshi and his wife (Kita-no-
Mandokoro), — his writing-box in
mother-of-pearl, the black lacquer-
ed ' horse ' on which she hung her
clothes, etc.

Fi-om the Apartments the acolyte
who acts as cicerone will show the
way to the Oarden, which was de-
signed by the celebrated esthete,
Kobori Enshu. Its pictiu:esque ef-
fect is much assisted by the two

lofty pine-clad hUls that rise be-
hind the trees at the back. We
are next made to pass up a gallery,
or rather bridge, which was brought
from Momoyama. Hideyoshi used
to sit on the little sqiiare in the
middle of this gallery, to gaze at
the moon (isuki-mi no dai). Then
we come to the Kaisan-db, or
Founder's Hall, the painted orna-
mentation of which is highly origi-
nal in style. The ceiling is made
of the top of Hideyoshi's wife's
carriage, and of a portion of the
roof of the war-junk prepared for
Hideyoshi's use in his expedition
against Korea. The four panels of
the shrine were painted by Kano
Motonobu. A curious incense-
burner shaped like an octopus, in
front of the little altar, was brotight
from Korea by Kato Kiyomasa.
The dragon on the celling is by
Kano Eitoku. From the Founder's
Hall we pass up another covered
gallery, named the Oicaryb no Bbka,
that is, the Corridor of the Recum-
bent Dragon, to the 0 Tamaya, or
Mortuary Chapel (exterior a good
deal battered by time), which con-
tains a seated effigy of Hideyoshi
in a shrine having panels of black
lacquer with designs in thin gold
taken from his wife's carriage.
The hat was one given to him by
the emperor of China. On the op-
posite side is the efiigy of his wife
in the garb of a Buddhist nun. The
Thirty-six Poets, by Tosa Mitsu-
nobu, hang round the walls. Four
sliding-screens by Kano Motonobu,
much injured by time, are also
shown. Note the gold pattern on
the black lacqiier steps inside the
altar. It represents rafts and fallen
cherry-blossoms floating down the
current of a river, and is said to
be the earhest example of gold
lacquer. The way leads down the
gaUery again, and so out

The temple of Reizan, next door
to Kodaiji, is dedicated to the mem-
ory of fallen warriors of the pre-
sent reign, in whose honour a fes-
tival (Shdkonsai), with \\TestHng and

346

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

other amusements, is held yearly
on the 15th October.

Stidgun-ztjJca, Tvhich rises some
570 ft. above the river, commands
a \ride prospect over the city
and siUTonnding country, up to the
mountaiDs bounding the province
of Yamashiro on the W. and N.

It takes its name, which means the
Generalissimo's Mound, from a tradi-
tiou that when the Emperor Kwammu
removed his capital to ite present situa-
tion, he buried here the effigy of a warrior
iu full armour, provided with a bow and
arrows, to act as the protecting deity of
the new city. According to popular
belief, this guardian warrior was none
other than the famous Tamura Maro.

Nearer than Shogun-zuka to the
city proper is Maruyama, a
suburb almost exclusively occupied
by tea-houses, — the resort of holi-
day-makers Tjent on dancing or
drinMng. Some may find it more
convenient to visit the Higashi. Ota-
ni, Gion, and Chion-in temples
first, and to take Marayama and
Shogun-zuka afterwards.

Hig-aslii Otani is the burial-
place of a portion of the remains
of Shinran Shdnin, founder of the.
Monto or Hongwanji sect, of Ken-
nyo the founder of this its Eastern
branch, and of Kennyo's successors
the later abbots. The grounds are
extensive, and finely situated on a
hillside facing Atago-yama and
Kurama-yama. An avenue of pine-
trees leads up to the gateway,
which is decorated with good carv-
ings of chrysanthemums and
conventional vegetation. To the
1. is a small drum-tower similar to
that at Nishi Otani (p. 343). The
temple (Hondo), though smaU. is a
glorious specimen of Buddhistic
art, — lovely in its rich simplicity of
gold, with no other colours to
distract the eye. On the altar is a
wooden statuette of Amida by the
sculptor Kwaikei. In a shrine at
the r. side hangs a portrait of
Shinran Shonin ; at its r. one of
Shotoku Taishi, while on the 1.
axe various abbots. Observe the
" wheel of the law," repeated nine

times on the frieze above the main
altar. In the grounds near the
temple is a splendid bronze foun-
tain, lotus-shaped with a dragon
rampant atop. A short flight of
steps behind leads up to the tomb,
— a plain but solid square structure
in granite, in front of which stands
a beautiful gate carved by Hidari
JingorS. The panels at the sides
of this gate, originally gilt, re-
present 1. the carp ascending a
cascade, — the symbol of effort and
success in life, — and r. the honess
casting her cub down a precipice
in order to harden it, both favourite
motives with the artists of Japan.
On the top of the tomb hes a
remarkable stone, called the " tiger-
stone " [tora-ishi). The arrange-
ments for interring members of
the sect are similar to those at
Nishi Otani.

Gion no Yasiiiro, less often
called Yasaka no Yaslnro, stands
close to Higashi Otani.

This Ryobu Shinto temple is said to
have been founded in A.D. 656 by a Korean
envoy, in honour of Susano-o. Gion-ji
was the name given to a Buddhist
temple dedicated to Yakushi and Kwan-
non which stood in the same enclosure,
and by popular usage the name Gion
came to be applied to the Shinto temple
as well. (jHon, it may be observed for the
sake of those familiar with Indian Bud-
dhism, is the Japanese rendering of Jeta-
vana Vihdra, the name of the park or
monastery presented to Buddha by
Anathapindaka.

Though widely known and much
frequented by worshippers, this
temple prodirces an impression of
shabbiness. The chief building
[Honden) is 60 ft. long by 57 ft. in
depth, and is roofed with a thick
layer of bark. The annual festival
takes place on the 17th and 24:th
July. On the first of these d^ites
the god goes to his 0 Tabiftho, and
on the second he returns. The
mythological cars are very fine.
A hvely fair is held at Gion on the
1st of each month.

Chion-in, the principal monas-
tery of the J5do sect, stands on a

Temple of Chion-in.

347

hill in Eastern Kyoto in a situation
recalling tliat of many fortresses.
Near its gate, in Awata-gnchi, is
the celebrated pottery of Kinko-zan.

This temple was founded in AD. 1211
by Enko Daishi (see p. 71). Jlost of the
present buildings date from 1C30.

A broad ayenue between banks
planted with cheny-trees leads up
to the main entrance, or Sammon, a
huge two-storied structure 81 it. by
37|- ft., the total height from the
ground being 80 ft. A staircase on
the S. side gives access to the upper
storey, which contains images of
Shaka, with Sudatta and Zenzai
D5ji on his r. and 1., and beyond
them, on each side, eight Rakan in
elaborate dresses, all about life-size,
the work of a sculptor named Koyti.
The cornices and cross-beams are
richly decorated with coloured ara-
besques, geometrical patterns, and
mythological animals. The ceilings,
which lose their effect by being too
low, haye dragons and angels on a
yellow ground. The gallery outside
commands a charming view of the
city through the pine-tree tops,
while to the N., towards Hiei-zan,
the prospect is wonderfully beauti-
ful. At the S. end there is another
pretty yiew of densely wooded hills.
One of two alternative flights of
steps — one straight and steep, the
other winding gently to the r. —
conducts us to the gi'eat court and
to the front of the main temple.
On the r., on a small elevation
among the trees, stands the bell-
tower, comj)leted in 1618, contain-
ing the G-reat Bell, height 10.8 ft.,
diameter 9 ft., thickness 9^- in.,
weight nearly 74 tons. It was
cast in 1633. The temple, which
faces S., is 167 ft. in length by
138 ft. in depth, and dU ft. in
height from the ground. It is dedi-
cated to Enko Daishi, whose shrine
stands on a stage, called Shumi-dan,
at the back of the chancel, within a
space marked off by four lofty gilt
pillars. The gilt metal lotuses in
bronze vases, which stand before

the front jjillars, attain a height
of 21 ft. from the floor, being nearly
half the height of the building.
The dimensions and the confine-
ment of decoration to this single
part render the interior very
effective. On the W. of the chief
shrine is a second containing
memorial tablets of leyasu and his
mother and of Hidetada, while
on the opposite or E. side are
Amida in the centre and the memo-
rial tablets of successive abbots.
Under the eaves of the front gaUery
is an umbrella (naga-e no kasa),
said to have flown thither from the
hands of a boy whose shape had
been assumed by the Shinto god of
Inari, guardian deity of this
temple.

East of the main temple is the
Library, containing a complete set
of the Buddhist canon. Behind
the main temple, and connected
with it by a gallery, is the Shuei-do,
containing two handsome altars,
one of which holds Amida by
Eshin Sozu, with Kwannon and
Seishi r. and 1., the other a very
large gilt Amida by the brothers
Kebunshi and Kebundo. To the
r. of the large image sits Monju in
the habit of a priest. After viewing
these, one is shown over the Goten,
or Palace built by lemitsu, which
is divided into two parts, called
respectively the O-Hojo and Xo-
Hdjo. The decorations on the sHd-
ing-screens by artists of the Kano
school are very fine. There are
two rooms painted with cranes and
pine-trees by Kano Naonobu ; then
other rooms -with pine-trees only,
by Naonobu and Nobumasa, once
occupied by the present Emperor.
At the place where the sets of apart-
ments meet is a wooden door with
a painting of a cat, now somewhat
dimmed with age, but much
admired by the Japanese, because
it appears to front the spectator
from whatever point of view he
may observe it. One fine room by
Kand Eitoku has snow scenes,
unfortunately somewhat faded.

848

Boute 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

The next room, also adorned "witli
snow scenes, was the reception room
of the Imperial Prince chosen as
high priest. The Sixteen Eakan in
the next room to this are by Nobu-
masa. Keturning to the back of
the O-Uqjd, we reach a small eight-
matted room decorated by Naonobn
with the phim and bamboo, which
is called Jliya Sarnri no o Tokudo
no Ma, that is, " the room in which
the Prince was initiated into the
priesthood." The chrysanthemums
in the room next to this are by
Nobumasa, by whom too are the
celebrated sparrows (nuke-suznme),
which were so life-like that they
flew away and left only a faint
trace behind, and the i-naori no
sagi, or " egret in the act of rising."
In the verandah are a pair of
wooden doors painted with pine-
trees, which are said to have been
so realistic as to exude resin. After
these come rooms by Tan-yu, with
willow-trees and plum-blossoms
covered with snow. The tomb of
Enko Daishi is situated further up
the hill, and is reached by ascend-
ing the steps E. of the main temple.
His festival is celebrated on the 19th
— 24th April with a gi-and religious
service, and also with less pomp on
the 24th day of eveiy month, on
which occasion the great bell is
rung. Close to Chion-in stands the
Awata Palace (Au-aia no
Goien).

It was first built as a j)lace of retire-
ment for the Emperor Seiwa in A.T>. 879,
after his abdicatioD of the throne. He
died here in the following year. Down
to the late revolution, Awata was the
residence of an Imperial Prince-Abbot.

The old edifices having been de-
stroyed by fire in 1893, one of them,
the Shishin-den — a miniattu'e Im-
perial Palace — was rebuilt in 1895,
and deserves a visit for the sake of
the handsome gold fusumrt and
screens by Tosa IVIitsunobu, Hok-
kyo Tankei, various artists of the
Kano school, the rare Chinese
painter Cho-shaku-ran, etc. The
middle room — the one with an altar

— is that where Kenshin Daishi
was received into the priesthood
at the age of nine. The sugi-do,
or wooden doors, deserve special
notice, on account of their quaint
paintings by Sumiyoshi Gukei (also
called Tomoyoshi) of the festival of
Gion with its mythological cars.
To the apartments succeeds a Gal-
lery, in which are exhibited various
antiquities and objects of art ; then
anotlaer gallery r., devoted to Bud-
dhist kakemonos, of which this
place possesses a splendid collec-
tion. The kakemonos are changed
two or three times a month. The
Garden (by Soami and Kobori
Enshii) is visited last. The azaleas
are specially niunerous and beauti-
ful.

The open space beyond here was
utilised for the National Exhibi-
tion of 1895, two buildings of
which remain, — the nearer one a
large Industiial Bazaar (Kogyo-
kican), the further an Art Exhibi-
tion {Bijutsu-kican), which latter is
only open for a month or two in
spring and occasionally for loan
exhibitions.

Hard by rises a highly interest-
ing edifice known as the Tai-
kyoku-den, or Heian Jingu, inau-
gurated in the spring of 1895 to
commemorate the eleventh cente-
nary of the founding of Kyoto by
the Emperor Kwammu (see small
type on page 355) in A.D. 793-5.

The object aimed at by the citizens of
Kyoto in this work has been to I'eproduce,
as faithfullj- a^; possible, the original Im-
perial Palace of that early age Various
considerations have, however, neces-
sitated a reduction in scale (ranging
in different parts from three-fifths to four-
fifths of the original), and the omission of
a Buddhist temple and a whole nest of
official buildings that clustered around the
ancient Mikado's abode. The site, too,
is different, the original palace having
stood not far from the modem Castle
of ISijO.

In the 8th century, Chinese ideas
had recently civilised Japan, and
penetrated into every domain of
thought and activity. Hence the

Tai-kyoku-den. Temples of Nanzenji and Eikwandd, 349

green porcelain tiles, the red and
yellow paint, the tip-tilted turret
roofs. Wood is the material chiefly
employed ; but the floors and steps
are of stone, mostly granite. The
red piUars are hinoki wood lacquered
over. There is a large central hall
(the Tai-kyoku<len proper), and on
either side of it, like wings, stretch
semi-circular galleries ending in a
pair of five-fold turrets, that on the
. r. being intended for a drum-tower,
that on the 1. for a belfry, as the
drum and bell were the two instru-
ments employed to regulate the
Court ceremonial. There were no
mats in those days, and the doors
resembled rather those of Euro^Dean
houses than the sliding paper doors
of modern Japan. Eight round
the enclosure runs a low red pahng
with gold knobs {gihoshi) ; behind is
a Shinto shrine where the Emperor
Kwammu is worshipped. There is
a spacious court in front, to which
a fine gateway of architecture simi-
lar to that of the main building
gives access.

A " Historical Festival " {-lidai Matsuri)
has been instituted here to take place
annually on the 22nd October, its name
being derived from the circumstance that
the costumes of various periods of Japa-
nese history are represented in it.
Deputations from the difi'erent wards of
the city meet iu front of the Municipal
Hall and march in procession through the
principal streets to the Tai-kyoku-den.

On the way to Nanzenji one
passes what looks Kke a railway,
but is really only a portage between
the two sections of the Lake Biwa
Canal, where the boats which navi-
gate on either side are placed on
trucks and rolled along for a few
hundred yards. This spot is called
Ke-age. Through the grounds of
Nanzenji, too, passes the aqueduct
that conveys water from Otsu to
Kyoto, — a red brick structure
whose arches rather add to than
deteriorate from the jjicturesque-
ness of the place. From Ke-age the
visitor should send round his jin-
rikdsha to meet him, while he walks

in a few min. along the aqueduct to
the temple.

Nanzenji.

This temple of the Zen sect was inhabi-
ted by the Emperor Kameyama at the end
of the 13th century, and rebuilt by leyasu
in 1606. The main edifice was burnt
down in 189.5 ; but the priests' apartments
escaped, also the two-storied gateway,
dating from 1628, in which the famous
robber Ishikawa Goemon (se« p. 74) is
said to have taken up his abode.

The Apartments (Hojo) deserve
inspection, — .not so much the front
suite, whose fusuma by ariists of
the Kano school time has somewhat
dimmed, but the back suite (Vra-
Hojo) which is resplendent with
large tigers on a gold ground by
Tan-yu. One of these, representing
a tiger lapping water, is s]pecially
admired for its resemblance to
life. A final room behind, once
tenanted by the Emperor Go-Yozei,
is extremely ornate with a large
waterfall and Chinese female
beauties in ideal landscape. The
Garden is in the severest <'ha-no-yu
style, — to European eyes merely a
small sandy court with a few stones
and forlorn bushes ; but Japanese
imagination sees in it a representa-
tion of the place where the tigress
teaches her young how to cross a
river.

Eikwando is a temple of the
Jodo sect situated amidst lovely
maples and pines, and with lichen-
covered gi'aves rising tier above
tier, and various antique buildings
on the hillside. Those interested
in Buddhist legends will hke to see
the famous image called Mi-kaeri
no Amida, or " Amida Looking over
his Shoulder."

Originally founded about the middle of
the 9th century, this temple was restored
by the priest Eikwau (b. 1032, d. 1111),
whence its present name.

The main temple, in which the
image stands, was repaired about
1880 in handsome style. The image
is 2J ft. high, the th-apery weU-
rendered, the head half txirned round
to the 1., as if looldng backwards.
It is kept enclosed in a shrine on the

350

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood .

high altar, and those desirous of
seeing it mnst apply to the priest in
charge. The image Avill then be
unveiled with some httle pomp
and circumstance, tapers hghted,
and a bell rung, -n-hile the priest
mounts up on the altar beside the
image and recites the legend. A
curtain is then drawn up, and
Amida stands revealed in a dim
rehgious Hght.

The legend is that Eikwan, who used to
spend his time in walking round the im-
age repeating the formula Xaniu Amida,
one day heard his name called twice or
thrice, and looking round, perceived the
image with its face turned in his direction,
and so it has remained fixed unto this
■day. Eikwan's own statue is one of those
placed to the r. of the altar and a little
behind it. so that Amida now perma-
nently looks towards him. A sequel
to the legend says that a certain Daimyo,
lord of Akashi. having doubted the
image's power, struck it on the r. side in
order to see what would happen, where-
upon blood flowed from the wound down
on to its breast.

Kurodani is a monastery of the
Jodo sect, beautifully situated on
the side of a wooded hiU. Annual
festival, 19-24th April.

It stands on the spot where the founder,
Honen Shonin, built his humble cabin on
abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-zan,
and is named after the ■' black ravine " on
that mountain, where he had previously
resided. The monastery of Kurodani was
begun at the end of the loth century, but
the present buildings date from the latter
part of the 18th century The chief his-
torical interest of Kurodani is its connec-
tion with the true and touching story of
Kiimagai Nanzane (see p. 78), who here ex-
changed the sword of the soldier for the
monk's rosary and life-long penance.

The two-storied main gate im-
presses the beholder by its simple
strength and sober good taste. In
front of the main temple are two
curiously trained pine-trees, — one
called Ofji no Matsu because fan-
shaped, the other to the r., Yoi'oi-
kake-matsu, because Naozane is said
to have hung up his armour on it.
The altar of the main temple is a
truly gi-and mass of gold, with a
gold baldachin in the centre, while
all around hang beautiful sUk ban-

ners (mai-u-hata) and the metal
ornaments known as kernan, which
represent the head-dresses of fai-
ries. A richly gilt shrine contains
the effigy of Honen JShonin, carved
by himself in 12C7, and first brought
to this monastery in 1609 ; it is a
seated wooden figure, with the paint
rubbed oft" by frequent cleaning.
Two long lacquered boards, with
texts containing the fundamental
maxims of the sect, hang on the
pillars r. and 1. of the altar. Behind
the altar, in the gallery, is a large
bold picture of Seishi Bosatsu,
called happd shomen, because the
eyes seem to look straight at the
beholder, wherever he may stand.
It is by Tansaku. Some very large
and splendid kakemonos are dis-
played in this temple from time
to time. One is a painted 7nan-
dara, that is to say, a representa-
tion of the Buddhist paradise
with its comphcated arrangement
of " many mansions." It is a
modern copy of a very celebrated
piece of embroidery in lotus-
threads by Chiijo-Hime. The other,
dating from 1669, is embroidered,
and is a splendid specimen of that
art. It represents Buddha's Entry
into Nirvana [Nehan-zo).

In the Apartments, which are
fine and spacious, a niimber of
works of art are preserved. Speci-
ally noteworthy — indeed unique in
Kyoto — are the sliding-screens by
Kubota Beisen in a siiite of three
rooms, — one decorated with terrific
dragons, one with a ph(jenix and
lions, one with tigers more than
life-size, all in black on a gold
ground and in perfect preserva-
tion. This artist's style, though
not free from conventionality, hits
off the characteristic of each ani-
mal to the life ; the tigress %vith
her CTibs is a particularly re-
markable achievement. Another
beautiful object — the combined
product of Beisen 's vigorous pen-
cil and of the lacquerer and metal-
worker's skiU — is a set of panels
representing the pine, bamboo.

Temple of' Kurodani. Ginkaku-ji.

351

and plum-blossom in a room
called Mikado 0 Nari, because
Emperors have honoiired it with
their presence. The folding-screens
and kakemonos and miscellaneous
objects of art and antiquity are
too often changed to admit of
detailed mention. The following,
however, seem to be permanent ; —
a curious kakemono of the mourn-
ing for Honen Shdnin by his dis-
ciples, a gi'otesque black statuette
of Jurdjin by Hidaii Jingoro, a
remarkable kakemono of fifty Bud-
dhas whose bodies and halos turn
out on inspection to be nothing but
the Chinese characters Namu Ami-
da Butsu constantly repeated, a
gilt statue of Amida by Eshin, and
round the walls of the same room
the whole biogi'aphy of Honen
Shonin in a set of minutely and
brilliantly painted kakemonos by
an unknown artist. The fossil
head and horn of some animal
asserted to be no less than a dragon
are shown with much pride. In
another room is an autograph of
Honen Shdnin in a magnificent
gilt shrine adorned with birds of
paradise in relief, and in a small
separate room a kakemono of Nao-
zane, together with his rosary, his
enormous rice-pestle, and his tre-
mendously long and heavy sword.
No wonder that the hero is alleged to
have been 7 ft. 8 inches in stature.
Next come more images, ximida by
Jikaku Daishi with Fud5 and
Benten, and beyond these a kake-
mono of the Five-and-twenty Bo-
satsu, — Amida in the middle, with
rays of light streaming from his
eye. Behind the Apartments lies a
pretty garden, the pond meandering
through which is called Yoroi-sute
no Ike, because Naozane threw his
armour into it.

On quitting the temple, the visi-
tor should glance in (ahead and to
the 1.) at the fine large gilt image of
Amida by Genshi Sozu, in the lesser
shrine dedicated to that deity.
The Kumagai-do, dedicated to the
memory of Kumagai Naozane, who

dwelt in this hut (as it then was)
for over twenty years, looks very
sliabby after the magnificence of
the main temple ; but the quantity
of small ex-voto tablets vsitli which
it is plastered, show it to be a
shrine popular with the common
people.

An inspection of these tablets will show
that every one of them represents a child
having its head shaved (not cut oil', as
might at a first glance be supposed !).
They are presented as grateful tokens by
the parents of children who had hitherto
always howled when being shaved, but
who come to enjoy that operation in con-
sequence of an application of the holy
water from the well hard by.

The graves of Kumagai and Atsu-
mori lie off the way, and are
scarcely worth turning aside to see.
But the walk through the cemetery
and the wood to the next sight —
the temple of Shinnyo-do — comes as
a relief after much temple-viewing.
The cemetery, which is extensive
and prettily situated on the side of a
hill crowned by a pagoda, con-
tains several large bronze Buddhas.
Most of the gi-aves are those of
Kyoto tradesfolk. Shinnyo-do, a
large temple of the Tendai sect, has
on its handsome high altar an image
of Amida attributed to Jikaku Dai-
shi. The inscription on the tablet
over the entrance is by Kobo Dai-
shi.

The characters on this tablet are, or
should be S to E , Shin-nyo-do. But the
middle one is not perfectly formed,
whence the proverb Kobo mo fude no
ayamari, "Even Kobo Daishi sometimes
wrote wrong ", as we say that " Homer
nods." Kobo Daishi, be it remarked, was
as famous for his calligraiihy as for his
piety and intellectual aud physical vigour.

Ginkaku-ji, properly Jishdji, is
in the vill. of Jodoji-mura, outside
the N.E. end of Kyoto, at the base
of a range of hills forming a spur
of Hiei-zan.

In 1479 Ashikaga Yoshimasa, after his
abdication of the Shogun"s dignity, built
himself a country-house here, the wall of
which extended as far as the hill where
Shinnyo-do stands. He is said to have
had that temple removed because it stood
in his way, but afterwards repenting of
the act, to have restored it to its original

352

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

site at his own expense. The two-storied
buildins, called Ginkaku (Silver Pavilion),
was a summer house in the garden of his
principal reception hall, built in imitation
of the Kinkalcu, or Golden Pavilion, of one
of his predecessors (see p. 330) The
garden was designed by Soami. It was
at Ginkakuji that Yoshimasa, with So-
ami and Shuko, his favourites, practised
the tea oereiuonies, which their patronage
elevated almost to the rank of a fine art.

The visitor is first shown over the
Apartments, the artist of which par
excellence is Buson. His sliding-
screens are all either black and
white, or else in the very pale-
coloured style called usu-zaishiki.
After the rooms adorned by his
brush come three rooms dating
from 1895, a reproduction of a little
suite in which the Shogun Yoshi-
masa used to practise the esthetic
art of incense-sniffing.* They look
out on a new garden. Next is a
tiny tea-room, the first in Japan
bujit in accordance with the canon
prescribing 4^ mats as the proper
size for such rooms. It has some
very sketchy sUding-screens by
Soami and Okyo, and a sketch of
plum-blossoms by Hogen Moto-
nobu so slight that none but en-
thusiastic devotees of the tea cere-
monies are hlcely to appreciate it.
We then reach a room containing
an image of Yoshimasa in priestly
robes, somewhat black ^\ith age
but startlingly life-like, to which
succeed other rooms with screens
and kakemonos by Sesshu, Cho
Densu, etc. Outside all these last
is the Garden, which produces a
charming effect, derived in part
from the high, thickly pine-clad
hill behind lending it a really
natural aspect. The curiously shap-
ed heap of white sand seen on
entering the garden is called Gin
Shadan, or the Silver Sand Platform.
Here Yoshimasa used to sit and
hold esthetic revels. The smaller
one behind is called the Ko-getsu-
dai, or Mound Facing the Moon,
where he used to moon-gaze. There

* See Things Japanese, article " Incense
Parties."

is a lake of course, as in all these
gardens ; and as usual each stone,
each bridge, each tree of any size
has its name. The rill is called
Sen-rfetsu-sen, or the Moon-washing
Fountain ; a stone in the pond is
the Stone of Ecstatic Contempla-
tion ; a little bridge is the Bridge
of the Pillar of the Immortals, etc.,
etc. The Pavihon (Ginkaku) is so
dilapidated as to be scarcely worth
looking at, except from an antiqua-
rian point of \iew. Enquiry shows
that it never was really coated with
silver, as its name would imply,
I'oshimasa having died before he
had got so far. In the upper storey
of the Pavilion is a gilt wooden
image of Kwannon by Unkei in
the hollow trunk of a camphor
laurel. A visit to Ginkaku-ji gener-
ally ends by the priest who acts as
guide offering the visitor tea in the
cha-no-yu style.

The new brick buildings in this
neighboiu'hood are those of the
Imperial Kyoto Lhiiversity, estab-
lished in 1897.

Shimo-Gamo.

This ancient Shinto temple was found-
ed in A.D 677. It was one of the twenty-
two chief temples of the empire, and is
still one of those maintained at the ex-
pense of the state.

This temple stands in a splendid
grove of patriarchal maples, crypto-
merias, and evergi-een oaks. Partic-
ularly curious are two tall sakaki
(Cleyera japonica) outside the main
gate, which are joined together by a
branch that has gi'own from one
trunk into the other. These trees,
which are much visited by women
who desire to hve in harmony with
their husbands, are called renri no ki,
and have a small red torii in front,
showing that they are considered
sacred. The temple is suiTounded
by a painted colonnade, xsdth a red
two-storied gate-house in the centre,
opposite to which is the Maiden or
oratory, a shed 24 ft. by 18 ft. On
the r. are two other sheds called
Mosodono, where sit the musicians
who play for the performers of the

Shimo & Kami-Gamo. Kurama-yama. Shugaku-in. 353

sacred Azuma-mai dance, and the
Hashklono bnilt over a walled canal,
and used by the reader of the norito,
or ritual. The canal is called Mita-
rasld-gawa, or Eiver of Lustration.
The remaining buildings are of the
same character as in other Shinto
establishments. Outside the watch-
house facing the main gate, is sus-
pended a long picture of Komei
Tenno's progress hither in 1863, — a
great event at the time, as it was
a practical demonstration of the
possibility of the IVIikado coming
forth fi'om his seclusion to take
part in matters political, and thus
inaugurated the system under which
his son, the present Emx3eror,
governs as well as reigns. One of
the smaller shrines is the object of
a peculiar superstition. It is be-
lieved that evergreens of any species
resembling the hiira/ji (a Idnd of
hoUy), will be converted into holly
if planted before this shrine ; and
shrubs supposed to be in process of
transformation are pointed out by
the hostess of the adjacent tea-stall.

On the 15th May, a procession
leaves the Imperial Palace to visit
this temple and the nest, affording
a good opportunity of seeing the
ancient official costumes ; there are
also horse-races. This festival
is called Aoi Matsuri, and is a
survival of the custom of occasional
visits to these temples by the Mika-
do in person.

A pretty road leads from Shimo-
Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an
avenue of pine-trees 50 chb long,
formerly the scene of many an Im-
perial progress, with the Kamo-
gawa to the r., up whose course
the avenue leads, while Hiei-zan
rises behind it and Kurama-yama
ahead.

Kami-Gamo.

This temple is usually said to have been
founded in AD. 677 by the Emperor Teni-
mu, in honour of Wake-Ikazuchi-no-Kami ;
but there seems to be some uncertainty
attaching to its early history. According
to the legend, as Tama-yori-Hime, daugh-
ter of the god Kamo-no-taketaumi, was
walking by the side of the stream, there

came floating towards her a red arrow
winged with a duck's feather, which she
picked U13 and carried home. Shortly
afterwards she was discovered to be
pregnant, and she eventually gave birth
to a son. The father was unknown ; and
as her parents disbelieved her declaration
that she had never known a man, thoy
determined, as soon as the child could
understand what was said to it, to solve
the mystery by resorting to a kind of
ordeal. Inviting all the villagers to a
feast, they gave the child a wine-cup,
telling him to offer it to his father ; but
instead of taking it to any of the company,
he ran out of the house and placed it in
front of the arrow which Tama-yori-Hime
had thrust into the roof. Then trans-
forming himself into a thunderbolt, he
ascended to heaven, followed by hie
mother. This myth evidently originated
in an attempt to account for the name
of the river Kamo, which means "Wild-
duck."

The temple buildings are quite
plain and beginning to look old.
The brick-red colour of the outer
and inner palings is striking,
though scarcely pretty. In the
season of the cherry-blossoms, the
place is gay with visitors and tea-
booths. At other seasons it can
scarcely be recommended, except to
those who, making a prolonged stay
at Kyoto, desire to become ac-
quainted -^^ith all its environs, and
may then take Kami-Gamo on the
way to

Kurama-yama, a favourite
expedition 2 ri further off among
the hiUs.

The name Kurama is said to be derived
from an incident in the life of the Em-
peror Temmu, who, in A.D. 683, in order
to escape from Prince Otomo, fled hither
on a "saddled horse," which he left tied
up at this spot.

The walk back from Kmama-
yama to Ky5to may be varied by
striking over the hills to Shizuhara
and Ohara, whence to Yase 1^ ri.
From Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is
2^ ri.

Shugaku-in* is an Imperial
garden at the base of Hiei-zan, plan-
ned by Go-Mizuno-o in the 17th
century, with some small buildings
attached. The fine cherry-trees

*Not accessible to the genei-al public.

354

Route 35. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood.

and maples were planted by Kokaku
Tenno, grandfather of the present
Emperor. To one, like the xMikado
in old times, continually shut up
between narrow walls and an eti-
qviette as narrow, the change must
have been refreshing indeed to this
height whence the city coidd be
seen only in the dim distance, and
all around was sweet verdure and
riu-al stillness. But visitors who
might think of including Shugaku-
in towards the end of a long day,
are warned that it entails a good
deal of climbing up and down the
hillside.

Envibons of Kyoto.

As may easily be seen by reference
to the map, several of the temples
and other places already mentioned
are, strictly speaking, in the envi-
rons of Kyoto rather than within
the limits of the city itself, owing
to the notable shrinkage of the
latter in modern times. The
following, however, lie still further
afield, demanding each the greater
part of a day to be done comfortably.

1. Hapids of th.e Katsura-
g-awa and Arasti-yania, famed
for cherry-blossoms and autumn
tints (see also p. 333). This ex-
pedition makes a pleasing variety
in the midst of day spent in ■visit-
ing temples. The way is as fol-
lows : — ^jiniUdsha from the hotel to
Nijo station on the W. side of the
town, whence rail to Kameoka,
f hr., and from there on foot or
by jinrikisha in about 10 min. to
the vill. of H5zu. The short
railway trip is highly picturesque,
the line running along, but high
above, the dasliing river. The
engineering difficulties to be over-
come were great, and no less
than seven tunnels had to be
pierced on the way up the side
of the ravine. At Hozu, boat is
taken for the descent of the rapids
down to the landing-place at
Arashi-yama. The charge (1900)
for a large boat is 5J yen, with 1 yen

additional for each extra man in
flood-time, unless the river be so
high that they decline to go altoge-
ther. But it is advisable to reach
H5zu before noon, as 50 sen extra
is charged after that hour for each
man, on the ground of their not
being able to re-ascend the river the
same day. (Visitors from Kobe or
Osaka must change at the Kyoto
station into a Kameoka car.)

The Rapids commence about 10
min. below Hozu. The bed of the
liver is very rocky, but the stream
at its ordinary height not part-
icularly swift. The scenery is
charming, the river at once enter-
ing the hills which soon rise pre-
cipitously on either hand, and con-
tinuing its course between them
for about 13 m. to Arashi-yama.
Of the numerous small rapids and
races, the following are a few of the
most exciting: — Koya no taki, or
Hut Eapid, a long race terminating
in a pretty rapid, the narrow pas-
sage being between artificially con-
structed embankments of rock ;
Takase, or High Kapid ; Shishi no
Kuchi, or The Lion's Mouth; and
Tonase-daki, the last on the de-
scent, where the river rushes be-
tween numerous rocks and islets.
One ri before reaching Arashi-yama,
the Kiyotaki-gawa falls in on the 1.
The passage takes on an average
about 1^ hr., but less in flood-time.
There are several good tea-houses
at the landing-place at Arashi-yama,
whence to the chief hotels in
Kyoto takes less than 1 hr. in jin-
rikisha with two men.

2. Over Hiei-zan to Otsu and
back. This delightful excursion
may be varied as to its details.
Even pedestrians had better first
take jinrikisha to Shirakawa
(about 45 min. from the hotels),
whence walk up to Shimei-ga-
take — the highest point of the
mountain — and down to Sakamoto,
one of the jinriMsha-men acting
as guide ; an alternative is to go on
horsebad^ the whole way. At

Hiei-zan.

355

Shimo Sakamoto new jinrikishas
should be engaged, and the giant
pine-tree of Karasaki visited on the
way into Otsii, whence return to
Kyoto either in the same jinriki-
shas or by train or canal. Non-
walkers go by jinrikisha to Yase,

This village and Ohara close by are noted
for the firm step and erect bearing of their
women, who, contrary to usual Japanese
ciistom, carry all loads on their heads.
From time immemorial, the nurses for
infants of the Imperial family have been
drawn from among these stalwart
women.

and thence in kago over the moun-
tain to Kami Sakamoto. It is a
long day's trip in either case. The
celebrated view from the summit of
Hiei-zan incltides a fine panorama
of the valley of Kyoto and of Lake
Biwa and its shores. Only towards
the N. is the prospect cut off by
Hirayama. Arrangements should
be made for lunching at the sum-
mit, in order to enjoy the view at
leisure. This grassy spot, known
by the name of Shimei-ga-take rises
to a height of some 2,700 ft. above
sea-level. The stone figure in a
stone box on the top represents
Dengyo Daishi (see p. 71), so placed
that he may gaze forever at the
Imperial Palace in Kyoto. Should
the weather turn bad or be too cold
for lunching on the hUl-top, there
is a tea-shed called Benkei-jaya, 8
cho on the way down to Sakamoto,
where one may take shelter.

[Those bent on temple sight-
seeing might like to make a
detour of J hr. from this tea-
shed to some buildings lying
away down the N. side of the
mountain, namely, the Jodo-in,
where Dengy5 Daishi reposes,
the Benkei Ninai-db, so-called
because Benkei is reputed to
have carried hither the two
buildings composing it, by
balancing on his shoulder the
corridor which connects them,
the Shaka-do in good preserva-
tion, and a fine gilt Sorinid (see
p. 200).

- A further detour, not recom-
mended, takes one some 8 cko
lower still to the decaying
temple of Kurodani (see p. 380),
lying in a sombre ravine. All
these holy places are visited by
the native pilgrims. Close to
Kurodani, in the forest, is a
favourite summer camping-
ground of the Kyoto mission-
aries.]

The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie-
no-yama. perhaps meaning the Ohilly
Mountain : and the Shinto temple of Hie
at Sakamoto at the K. foot of the moun-
tain, popularly known as Sanno Sama, is
called after it. Hiei-zan doubtless gained
religious importance from the fact of its
position due N.E. of the Imperial Palace
at Kyoto (conf. p. 128, small type). Dur-
ing the middle ages Hiei-zan was covered
with Buddhist temples and seminaries
collectively known as Enryaku-ji, the
total aggregate of such buildings being
stated at the extraordinary number of
3,000 ; and the monks, who were often
ignorant, truculent, and of disorderly
habits, became the terror of Kyoto, on
which peaceful city they would sweep
down after the manner of banditti. At
last, in the 16th century, the great warrior
Nobunaga, iu order to revenge himself
upon the monks for having sided with his
enemy Asakura, Lord of Echizen, attack-
ed the temples and committed them to
the flames. The monks were dispersed
far and wide until the accession to power
of the Tokugawa Shoguns, who re-estab-
lished the institution on a smaller scale,
the number of the seminaries being
thenceforward limited to one hundred
and twenty-five.

On the way down fi-om Hiei-zan
towards Lake Biwa, several of the
Buddhist buildings that have sur-
vived to the present day are passed,
notably the massive Ghudo and
Kodo, till at the base, just before
the viU. of Kami Sakamoto (Inn,
Take-ya), we reach the large Shinto
temple of Sanno or Hiyoshi, togeth-
er with a number of subsidiary
shrines, some so small as almost to
look like toys. The stillness of the
now halt-deserted temples, the
shade of the grand old trees, and
the plashing of rills of water
through the spacious grounds,
produce an impression of solemnity
and peace. (From the Chiido there

356

Rout SG. — Nara and Neighbour] lood.

is an alternative way down 1., —
prettier still, but longer.)

The annual festival of Hiyoshi
on the 14th April is celebrated with
great pomp, the sacred cars being
then taken to Karasald and back
by water.

3. The S.E. shore of Lake
Biwa (see Koute 40).

4. Uji and Nara (see Koiite 36).
b. Takao, to the N.W. of Kydto,

is celebrated for its Momiji-ymna, or
"Maple Monntain," which occupies
one side of a romantic glen. There
is a tea-house on the top with a
delightful prospect, affording an ex-
cellent spot for a picnic, especially
in November when the leaves turn
crimson. The expedition takes
half a day.

Not far off is Atago-yama, con-
spicuous by the lump or knob on
its summit, which rises aboiit 2,900
feet above the level of the sea.
Here, overlooking the plain, stand
some Shinto shrines and a fine
bronze torii with a wild-boar in
rehef. The charms sold at this
place are believed to possess special
efficacy against fire. The temples
of Omuro-Oosho, Uzumasa, and
Seiryigi might be included in the
same day's work.

6. Kurama-yama (see p. 384).

7. Otokoyama -no-Hachi-
man-gu, also called I'auatu-san, is
situated opposite Yamazald station
on the Tokaido Railway. The
temple, which is dedicated to the
God of War (see pp. 4S-;j), stands
on a hill some 300 ft. above the
river, and is built in the Eyobix
Shinto style. In former times
pUgiims were allowed to walk round
the outer edge of the corridor
surrounding the building, so that
they were able to see the golden
gutter (kin no toyu-dake) between
the eaves of the oratory and shrine,
— a costly curiosity 80 ft. long, 3 ft.
wide, and over 1 inch in thickness,
which remains undisturbed despite
the strong temptation to convert
it into cixrrent coin. From the
E. gate a few flights of steps de-

scend to the well called Iwa-shi-
mizu, that is, " pure rock water,"
from which the official name of
the temple is derived. Annual
festival on the l."jth-l!>th January.
Crossing the river, the \isitor
should ascend Tenno-zan to the
pagoda of Takaia-dera, 200 ft. above
the bank.

At Tenno-zan is localised one of the
moral tales on which Japanese youth is
brought up. A frog bom at Kyoto started
off to see Osaka, and by dint of many
hops got as far as the top of this hill
which is about half-way. Whom should
he meet there but an Osaka frog bent on a
like errand, that of enlarging his know-
ledge by a visit to Kyoto, the great capital.
Both being very tired and the hill being
so high that it afforded an eicellent
panorama of either city, thej' decided to
rest and look about them. " For " said the
Kyoto frog, " I can see Osaka:" "and!,"
said the Osaka frog, " can see Kyoto, if we
but stand on tiptoe and look ahead."
Great was the disappointment of the
Kyoto frog on finding nothing strange or
rare in the Ogaka view while the Osaka
frog exclaimed. •'Why! there is not a
bit of difference between Kyoto and my
own birthplace." So they both agreed
that there was no use in going further,
and each accordin^dy returned the way
he had come. The fact was that the frogs
forgot that their eyes were set in the
backs of their heads, and that when they
stood up, they consequently saw what
was behind them, not what was in front.
This story shows how difBcult it is for
stupid folks to learn anything even
from experience.

ROUTE 3G.

Naka and Neighbouehood.

1. (lENEKAL OBSKlvVATIONS. 2. THE
KYOTO-NAn.i r.AILWAY. OBAKU-SAN.
UJI. 3. XAKA. 4. NAEA-OSAKA
KAHiWAY.

1. — Gkiskkal Observations.

The usual way of doing Nara is
to take it as a day's expedition from
Kyoto, the train journey occupying
2 hrs. each way. Another plan is.

Kyoto-Nara Railway. Uji.

357

after doing Nara, to proceed by
train to Osaka and Kobe (2^ hrs.),
changing cars at Tennoji and
Umeda (" Osaka Station "). In tine
weather, a pleasant break maybe
made on the way from Kyoto to
Nara by alighting at the inter-
mediate station of Kobata, J hr.,
where jinrikishas are taken to Tisit
Obaku-san and Uji, the train being
rejoined at Uji station.

2. — KyoTO-NaEA EAIIiWAY.

Names

of
Stations

Remarks

( Same station

3{m

KY()TO(Shichijo)
Fushimi

\ as Tokaido
( Railway.

*-2

Momoyama
Kobata

( Alight for O-
\ baku-san.

Uji
Shinden

Vi'i

Nagaike

Tamamizu

ISi-

Tanakura

•2U

Kizu

NARA

Fushimi offers no attractions,
thoiigh it is frequently mentioned
in history. The last important
date connected with it is the 28th-
30th January, 1868, when a sanguin-
ary battle was fought between the
Imperialists and the j)artisans of
the Shogun. On the hill called
Momoyama stood Hideyoshi's
the grandest ever built in
m, whose spoils in the shape
of gold screens, /MSM7na, etc., adorn
half the temples in Kyoto. Momo-
yama is still visited by holiday-
makers in spring, for the peach-
blossom from which it derives its
name.

Alighting at Kobata, one has 13
cho, say 10 min. by jinriMsha, to
Obaku-san, a Buddhist establish-
ment whose massive temple build-
ings stand in extensive grounds.

It wa.s foiiDded in 1659 by a Chinese
priest named Ingen, who emigrated to
Japan in 1654 and died here in 1673. Most
of his successors up to the twenty-first
were Chinamen. The priests still wear
Chinese shoes and a peculiar kind of cap
resembling the French hcret. After a
period of decay, the place underwent
renovation during the early nineties.

The three principal buildings
among many are first, the Tenno-do
containing images of Miroku
Bosatsu and the Shi - Tenno ;
second, the Hondo with a large gilt
figure of Shaka flanked by Anan
and Kasho, and attended by the
Eighteen Bakan (the tablet over
the altar, with characters in gold, is
an autograph of the present Em-
peror) ; third, the Hatto used as a
store- bouse for a complete set of
wooden blocks (6(»,000) for printing
the Chinese version of the Bud-
dhist canon. Though, from a
tourist's point of view, there is after
aU not much to see at Obaku-san,
the place is impressive from its size
and its solemn soHtude amidst
ancient trees.

The next stage of the journey is
Uji (Inns, Yorozu-ya on the
Ky5to side of the river, and Kiku-
ya on the other side), a neat little
town on the Yodogawa, here called
Ujigawa, which drains Lake Biwa.
A pleasant ride of ^ hr. takes one
from Obaku-san to the Uji bridge,
passing by some large powder
magazines, and through the tea
plantations for which this district
is famous.

Tea is believed to have been introduc-
ed into Japan from China in A.D, 805 by
the Buddhist al.bot. Dengyo Daishi The
Uji plantations, which date from the
close of the 12tb century, have always
been considered the chief ones of the
empire, those near Shizuoka ranking
next.

The tea begins to come to market
about the 10th May ; but the pre-
paration of the leaf can be seen
going on biisily in the peasants'
houses for some time later. The
finest kinds, siich as Gyoku-ro
("Jewelled Dew "), are sold at very

358

Roule 3(3. — Nora and Neighbourhood.

high prices — as much as 5 yen to
7^ yen per lb. Those, however, who
expect to see large firing or selling
establishments will be disappoint-
ed. Each family works indepen-
dently in quite a small way, more
japonico, and gives to the tea produ-
ced by it whatever fancy name it
chooses. The citizens of Kyoto
visit Uji in the summer to watch
the fire-fiies, and to enjoy the
pretty prospect up the river.

It is worth continuing on for 5
min. up the r. bank of the stream
to the small temple of Koshoji,
picturesquely situated at the top of
a rocky approach.

Retracing our steps and crossing
the bridge, we reach Uji's chief
sight, the ancient Buddhist temple
of Byodo-in, belonging to the
Tendai sect and connected in his-
tory with the name of the famous
wanior, Gen-sammi Yorimasa.

The temple dates from 1052. Here
Gen-sammi Yorimasa committed suicide
in A.D. 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge,
where, with 300 warriors, he withstood
20,000 men of the Taira host, in order
to afford time for Prince Mochihito to
effect his escape. After prodigies of
valour had been performed by this little
band, most of whom fell in the defence
of the bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byo-
do-in, and while his remaining followers
kept the enemy at bay, calmly ran
himself through with his sword in the
manner of an ancient Japanese hero. He
was then seventy-five years of age . Yori-
masa is famous in romance for having,
with the aid of his trusty squire I-no-
Hayata, slain the monster called .S'arit-
tora-hebi which tormented the Emperor
Nij6-no-in. A monument enclosed by
stone fencing _in the shape of a fan,
hence called Ogi-shiba, stands on the 1.
before entering the grounds, indicating
the spot where Yorimasa breathed his
last.

The large stone monument of
irregular shape, seen to the 1. after
entering the grounds, was erected
in 1^87 to hand down to posterity
the praises of Uji tea. The building
on the other side of the lotus pond
is the Ilo-o-do, or Phoenix Hall,

A replica of the Phcenix Hall was set
up at Ohicago by the Japanese Govern-
ment Commission in 189;i, and left there

as a permanent memento of .JapanV
participation in the World's Fair.

one of the most ancient wooden
structures in Japan, perhaps the
most original in shape, and for-
merly one of the most beautiful,
though now unfortunately a good
deal decayed. It derives its name
from the circumstance that it is
intended to represent a phcenix,
the two-storied central part being
the body, and the colonnades r.
and 1. the wings, while the corridor
behind forms the tail. The ceiling
is divided into small coffers inlaid
with mother-of-pearl. Eound the
top of the walls runs a sort of
frieze representing the Twenty-five
Bosatsu and various female person-
ages. The doors and the walls r.
and 1. and behind the altar are
covered with ancient Buddhist
paintings by Tamenari, now almost
obhterated, of the Nine Regions
of Eubon Joclo, the Pure Land in the
West, where the saints dwell accord-
ing to their degrees of merit. The
altar or stage was originally cover-
ed with nashiji gold lacquer, in-
laid with mother-of-pearl ; and as
every inch of the waUs and columns
was elaborately decorated with
paintings, the effect of the whole,
when new, must have been truly
da,zzling. By criminal neglect, this
gem of art was left open for many
years to every wind of heaven ; and
what between the ravages of the
weather and the ravages of thieves,
the place has been reduced to its
present condition. On the roof are
two phoenixes in bronze, 3 ft. high,
which serve as weathercocks.

The Hondo, or present Main Tem-
ple, which is much newer, has noth-
ing that calls for special mention,
except some rehcs of Yorimasa,
and a flag interesting as a very
early example of the Japanese
national device of the red sun on a
white ground {Hi no maru).

The railway station of Uji is only
5 min. off, and a run of a little
over I hr. takes us hence to

Temple of Kosuga.

359

If ara {Inns, *Kikusui-r6 near the
Sarusawa-no-ike ; Musashino, at the
foot of Mikasa-yama).

Nara, sometimes called Nanto by fhe
learned, was the capital of Japan during
seven reigns, from A.D. 709 to 784, when
the Emperor Kwammu removed the seat
of government to the province of Yama-
shiro. The town is at the present day
probably but a tenth of its former size.

The chief sights of Nara may be
conveniently taken in the following
order : —

Easiiga no Miya.

This temple, said to have been founded
in A.D. 767. is dedicated to the ancestor
of the Fujiwara family, the Shinto god
Ama-no-Koyane. to his wife, and to the
gods or mythical heroes Take-mikazuchi
and Futsu-nushi. The great annual festi-
val is held on the 17th December.

The main approach leads up
through a delightful park, where
tame deer usually congregate in the
expectation of being fed.

At the end of a long avenue of
stone lanterns to the r. of the
Main Temple stands the Waka-mi-
ya, a temple dedicated to Ama-no-
oshi-kumo. son of Ama-no-koyane.
Many of the lanterns which line
the approach are lighted every
night. Formerly, when the annual
subscriptions for that purpose were
liberal, all were hghted, producing
a striking effect among the dark
evergi-eens of the grove. In front
stand an open shed where pil-
grims bow down, and a long low
building occupied by the priests.
A few young girls are in attendance,
to perform the ancient rehgious
dance called kagura.

Their dress consists of a wide red divid-
ed skirt, a white under-garment, and a
long gauzy mantle adorned with the Kasu-
ga crest of wistaria, — a crest doubtless
suggested by the wild wistarias whose
blossoms luxuriate in this park early
in May. The dancers" hair is gathered
into a long tress which hangs down
behind ; a chaplet of artificial flowers —
the wistaria and scarlet single camellia
— is worn on the forehead, and the face
ifl plastered thickly with white lead pow-
der. The girls hold in their hands, as
the dance proceeds, now a branch of a
tree, now a bunch of small bells. The
orchegtra consists of three i^riests, who

perform on the drum and flute and chant
sacred song. The payment demanded is
from 50 se/i up to 10 yen, according to the
length of the performance.

The Oku-no-in, lying beyond the
Waka-miya, is uninteresting.

Ketracing our steps for a short
distance, we enter the grounds of
the Main Temple, whose bright red
paint and the countless brass lan-
terns with which it is hung, con-
trast stiiliingly with the reposeful
gi'een of the magnificent crypto-
merias all around and between the
buildings. The gallery, here called
Snjikai-no-Ma, is attributed to the
famous sculptor Hidari Jingoro.
The open shed called the Haiya, or
oratory, where in ancient times
the Daimyos came to worship,
is now used by the townspeople
on the evening of tietsuhun (3rd
February), for the performance of
the popular ceremony of scattering
beans to exjDel evil spirits. In the
S.W. corner of the outer gallery is a
small shrine dedicated to Saruta-
hiko, the god who is supposed to be
lord of the soil.

According to the myth, this god made
an agreement with the god of Kashima to
lease 3 ft. of earth to him ; but the latter
cunningly enclosed 3 ri square of ground
during the night, pretending that the
" three feet " in the contract referred only
to the depth of the soil. It is the popular
belief that, in consequence of this trick
of Take-mikazuchi, no tree on Easuga-
yama sends its roots more than 3 ft.
below the surface.

One of the local wonders is a
single tree-trunk consisting of a
camellia, a cherry, a wistaria, and
other trees — seven in all — inextrica-
bly grown together. To this em-
blem of constant attachment lovers
tie wisps of paper containing
written vows and prayers.

The way from the temple of
Kasuga leads down and over a
tiny stream to the Musashino inn,
and to some shops where toy
figures of the performers in the No
dances and articles made out of
deer's horns are sold. Thence for
a short way through the wood to an-
other red and white Shinto temple.

360

Eoute 36. — Nara and Neighbourhood.

Tamuke-yama no Hachiman, now
somewhat decayed, but cele-
brated in Japanese poetry as the
scene of an ode by Sugawara-no-
Michizane, included in the classical
" Century of Poets " (Hijaku-nia-
Is-shu). It says :

Konn ti'bi ma

Xusa mo tori-aezii

Tamuke-yiima
Momiji no nishiki
Kami no mani-niani

which may be roughly rendered as
follows :

" This time I bring with me no
offerings ; the gods may take to
their hearts' content of the damask
of the maple-leaves on Mount
Tamuke," — the alhision being to
the maple-trees which grow in pro-
fusion on this spot. The brightly
coloured mural picture in the build-
ing 1. on entering, represents the
encounter at the Basho-mon in
Kyoto between Watanabe-no Tsuna
and the ogre. Leading Tamuke-
yama, observe in the grounds
1. the ancient store-houses on legs.
Passing the temple of San-grcatsu-
do, now too miich decayed to
call for more than a parenthetical
reference to the great gaunt images
contained in it, we reach the

Ni-g-watsu-do, a fine Buddhist
temple of original aspect, renovat-
ed in 1898. It seems to cling to
the side of the hill against which
it is built out on piles, and is led
up to loj a steep flight of stone
steps, while a perfect cloud of
metal lanterns hung all along the
front lends its quota of peculiarity
to the general appearance. Parallel
to the flight of steps on the other
side, is a gallery called Taimntsu no
Boka, or •' Torch (iallery," because
torch-light processions wend their
way up it on the gi'eat festival
night, the 3rd February. It is be-
lieved to be miraculousl)^ preserved
against danger from fire. There
is a fine view over the town fi'om
the front, magnificent trees and
the tiled roof of the Hall of the

Daibutsu being the most noticeable
features.

The Ni-gwatsti-do, which is dedicated
to Kwannon, was founded in A.D. 75'2,
though the present building dates only
about two centuries back. According to
the legend, a tiny copper image of Kwan-
non had been picked up, which possessed
the miraculous quality of being warm
Like living flesh. Ever since it was
enshrined in this temple, the custom
has been to hold a special series of
sei"vicos called Dattan no 'JJcmici during
the first half of the second month of
the year, whence the name Si-gwatsu-dd
(Hall of the Second Moon). The image
is exposed for adoration on the 18th of
each month.

Descending the Torch Gallery,
we reach a well called ]ynkasa no I,
contained in a small biulding whic-h
is opened only on the 1st Februai-y
of each year.

Legend says that when the founder
dedicated the temple, the god of Onyu
in the province of Wakasa begged leave
to provide the holy water, whereupon a
white and a black cormorant flew out
of the rock and disappeared, while water
gushed forth from the hole. Frt)m that
time the stream which had flowed past
the shriue of Onyu dried up, its watera
having been transferred to the Ni-gwatsu-
do. Local lore tells of unbelievers having
become convinced of the truth of the
miracle by throwing rict-husks into the
original spring in Wakasa, which reap-
peared after a due interval in the spring
here at Nara.

We next reach the enclosure of
Todaiji, first passing the famous
bell which hangs in a substantial
belfry.

This gn Mt bf 11 was cast in S..\). '-Vl. Its
measurements are : — height 13 ft. (3 in.,
greatest diameter 9 ft. l.ii in., and great-
est thickness at the edge 8.4 in. (Japanese
measure). Nearly 36 tons of copper and
1 ton of tin were used in the casting.

and then proceeding downhUl
through the wood to the huge,
ungainly building which contains
the Daibutsu, or (iigantic Image
of Biiddlaa, larger than the one at
Kamakura, though far less admi-
rable as a work of art.

Founded by Shomu Tenno, the temple
of Todaiji was completed about the year
750, but on a much grander scale than it
now displays. The actual building con-
taining the Daibutsu, though it dates only
from the beginning of the 18th century, is

The Daibutsu.

361

already miicli weather-worn and out of
the perpendicular. Itw dimensions are
stated as follows: — lieight 15G ft., length
of front 290 ft., depth 170 ft. The Daibu-
tsu itself dates from A.D. 74iJ, except
the head, which fell off and was burnt
in successive fires, the present one hav-
ing been made in the latter part of the
16th century. The deity represented
is lioshana, or Birushana, an impersona-
tion of light, whom priestly ingenuity
easily identified with the Shinto Sun-
Goddess.

The ]-lall has been so re-aixanged
that one may enter without taking
off one's boots. The height of the
image is given as 53 ft. It is in
a sitting posture, with the legs
crossed, the right hand nphfted,
its palm oiitwards and the tips of
the fingers about on a level vnth the
shoulder, and the left hand resting
on the knee with the back of the
fingers towards the spectator.
The body of the image and all the
most ancient part of the lotus-
flowers on which it is seated, are
apparently formed of plates of
bronze 10 in. by 12 in., soldered
together. The modern parts are
much larger castings, and not
soldered. The petals of the re-
versed lotiis seem to be single
castings, and the head, which is
considerably darker in colour, also
looks like a single piece. A pecu-
liar method of construction was
adopted — namely, that of gi'adually
building i\p the walls of the mould
as the lower portion of the casting
cooled, instead of constructing the
whole mould lirst, and then maldng
the casting in a single piece. The
thickness of the casting varies
from ('> in. to 10 in. The original
parts of the upturned lotus form-
ing the image's seat are engraved
with representations of Buddliist
gods and of SImmisen (the central
axis of the laniverse) surrounded by
various tiers of heavens. Here and
there traces of sxibstantial gild-
ing are visible, which lead to the
conjecttire that the whole imago
was originally gilt. The modern
head is ugly, owing to its black
colour, and to its broad nostrils and

swollen cheeks. ]>ehind it rises up
a brightly gilt wooden halo con-
taining large images of Bosat.su.
Visitors are allowed, on payment of
a small fee, to walk up a s(;afEolding
to inspect the upper and back parts
of the image. On the Daibutsu's r.
hand is a gilt image of Kokuzo Bo-
satsu, which, though 18 ft. high,
looks as nothing in comjiarison.
On his 1. is a Nyo-i-rin Kwannon of
the same size. Both these siib-
ordinate images date from the
beginning of the 18th century.

Immediately behind the great
image are, on its r. hand a large
unijainted figure of Komoku-Ten,
and on its 1. one of Bishamon. In
front of this latter, one of the
temple pillars has been perforated
to admit of devotees crawling
through, which is considered a
meritorious action. The sides of
the aperture are worn smooth.

In the spacious courtyard in front
of the Daibutsu-do is a remark-
able bronze lantern, octagonal and
carved in open-work, with liuddhist
images and mythological animals.
It is ascribed to a Chinese artist of
the 8th century, and is the finest
existing as well as one of the ear-
liest, specimens of such work. Be-
hind the Daibutsu-do, in the wood,
stands a celebiated store-house call-
ed ShosO'in, in which, over a thou-
sand years ago, specimens of all the
articles then in daily use at the
Imperial Court were put away, thus
forming an invaluable archieolo-
gical museum, ^^■hich, however, is
not as a rule open to the public,
though permission to view the con-
tents is sometimes granted on the
occasion of airing them (mus-hi-
boshi) during the dog-days. A few
specimens have been placed in the
Ueno Museum at Tokyo.

The visitor leaves the grounds
of Todaiji and the Daibutsu by
two large gates, calletl respec-
tively Ni-tevh-mon and Ni-b-mon.
The latter has in the exterior niches
colossal figvires of the Nt-o, which
are considei'ed admirable specimens

362

Route 36. — Nara and Neighbourhood.

of that class of sculptiire. They
are attributed to Kwaikei. who
flourished about A.D. 1095. The
interior niches contain two remark-
able lions carved out of Chinese
stone by a Chinese scul^jtor of the
12th century.

Outside the Ni-6-mon, to the r.,
stands a permanent Mvseum (Haku-
hutsu-kicaii), which is extremely
interesting ; for the antique objects
shown are very numerous and
undoiibtedly genuine. There are
statues both of wood and bronze,
lacquer, masks, Testments, kake-
monos, mmidara, swords, armour,
bronzes, porcelain, an-ow - heads,
musical instruments, etc. Korin,
Okyo, Buncho, and many other
famous artists are represented.
Among the treasures are some very
rare antiquities sent here fi"om
Horyuji for preservation. They
include Buddhist images and some
wonderfiil pieces of tapestry.

The way leads behind the
Museum, with the prefectural of-
fices (a two-storied European build-
ing) on the r., and on the 1. the
Buddhist temple of

Kobukuji, conspicuous by its
two pagodas. This once grand
establishment, founded in A.D. 710,
was burnt down in 1717, and little
remains to attest its ancient splen-
dour. The following buildings may
be mentioned : — the Tokondo, de-
dicated to Yakushi Nyorai ;

The enormous pine-tree with spreading
branches suisported on poles in front of
the Tokondo, is said to have been planted
by Kobo Daishi to take the place of
flowers as a perpetual offeiing to the god
Yakushi.

the Rondo, which is full of excellent
statues, includtng among others a
pair of iVl-5, attribiited to a Korean
immigrant of the beginning of the
7th century, remarkable for their
correct anatomy, and regarded by
connoisseurs as the best examples
of wood-carving to be found in
Japan ; and the Xan-endo, an octa-
gonal biiilding containing two co-
lossal images of Kwannon.

The octagonal shape of the building is
copied from the fabulous Buddhist moun-
tain Fudarakn-sen, Kwannnn's favoiirite
retreat.

Below Kobukuji lies a pond called
Sarusawa no Ike.

Local legend telle of a beautiful
maiden at the Mikado's court, who was
wooed by all the coirrtiers, but rejected
their offers of marriage, because she was
in love with the Mikado. The latter
looked graciously on her for a while ; but
when he afterwards began to neglect her,
she went secretly away by night and
drowned herself in this pond.

This ends the sights of Nara.
A little sjpare time might be de-
voted to walking up Mikasa-yama,
close behind the temple of Kasuga.
From the stone at the summit (600
ft. above the base), a fine view N.W.
is obtained of the valley of the Kizu-
gawa, and W., of the plain of Nara
stretching away to the mountains
which divide the province of
Yamato from that of Kawachi.
The town of Koriyama lies S.W.

i. NAItA-OsAKA RiHiWAV.

lil

Names

of
Stations

Remarks

3 m.

18i

20J
23i

25i

NAJRA

Koriyama

Horyuji

Oil

(Change for
1 Takada and
( Sakurai.

(Alight for
temple of
( Shigi-sen

Eashiwabai-a
Yao

Hirano
Tennoji

OSAKA (Minato-

cho)

Koriyama. The walls of Nara,
when that city was the capital,
extended almost to what is now
the eastern limit of this town. The
viU. of

Horyuji {Inns, Daikoku-ya,
Kase-ya) takes its name from a
veiy ancient temple, which,
though somewhat battered by time.

Horyuji.

363

well merits a visit from the student
of art and antiquity.

Horyuji ia the oldest existing Buddhist
temple in Japan, having been founded by
Shotoku Taishi and completed in A.D.
607. Owing to its exceptionally important
collection of art treasures, it some years
ago attracted the attention of art critics
and of the Imperial Government, which
has since contributed towards its support.
There is also a local Hozon-kwai, or
Society for the Preservation of the Tem-
ple. The temple is always open, except-
ing on certain special occasions. A fee
of 1 yen should be given to the custodian,
who will show the visitor the various
objects of art (j-eiho-mono).

Instead of entering by the main
gate, called Akezu no man, it is
usual to tal* a short cut through
the Hachiman gate close to the
inns. In this way the Yume-dono
is viBited first, and the principal
part of the monastery taken
afterwards. The Yume-dono, or
Hall of Dreams, an octagonal build-
ing in the centre of an enclosure
surrounded by a closed gallery, is
dedicated to Kwannon. On the E. of
the image of this goddess is that of
the Eleven-faced Kwannon (over 600
years old), and on the W., Shotoku
Taishi, 1,100 years old. The Yume-
dono is now generally kept closed.
Behind it is a long building, in the
r. part of which, called the Shari-
den, the pupil of the left eye of
Buddha is preserved. It is shown
every day at noon. The walls are
covered with paintings by a Chinese
artist named Shixn-iu. In the 1.
part of the building, called Oo
M-den, are wall-pictures represent-
ing the chief events of the prince's
life, attributed to Hada - no - Ghi-
shin, A.D. 1069. In this room is a
bronze image called Ymiie-iagai no
Ktcannon, which is invoked to
counteract the effects of bad
dreams. Other buildings near by
are the Devnho-db connected by a
small bridge, and Horjenji.

Leaving this part, we pass through
a gateway, and come to a building
which contains a small equestrian
stsxtue of Shotoku Taishi subduing
Mononobe-no-Moriya ; the incident

is depicted in greater detail upon
the ex-voto painting outside. In the
corresponding building, called Tai-
shi-do or Shoryo-in, which is said
to be in the same style as the
Shishin-den, or Chief Reception
Hall of the ancient palace of Nara,
is an image of the prince at the age
of thirty-five, attribvited to himself,
together with Nyo-i-iin Kwannon
and Jizo by a Korean sculptor of
the 6th century.

AVe now approach the chief tem-
ples, which stand in an oblong
enclosure surrounded by a Kwairo,
or large closed gallery. The Ni-o
in the two-storied gateway are
remarkable statiies ; the black one
is carved out of a single cryptomeria
trunk, while the red one opposite is
of wood covered with clay. The
Eomlo, which stands a little on the
1. of the entrance, and the pagoda
are all that remain of the original
buildings, and are the oldest wood-
en structures in Japan, their age
being nearly thirteen centuries.
The Kondo contains, on the S.
side, a bronze image of Buddha,
formerly gilt, attributed to Tori
Busshi, flanked by I'akuo Bosatsu
and Yakujo Bosatsu. On the E.
side is Yakiishi Nyorai, also by Tori
Busshi, with Nikko Bosatsu and
Cxwakko Bosatsu r. and 1. The W.
side is occupied by Amida, accom-
panied by Kwannon and Seishi.
These three images were cast in
1231 to replace the originals which
had been stolen. The wood-
en figures of Tamon-Ten and
Kichijo-Ten also date from the
middle of the 13th century. The
Shi-Tenno are by two Chinese sculij-
tors, and belong to the middle of
the 7th century. The bronze image
of Yakushi and the wooden figure
of Fugen are said to have been
brought to Japan by the Indian
priest whose name is translated
Zemtii. On the N. side is another
bronze Amida, flanlced by Kwannon
and Seishi, said to have belonged
to the Emperor Komyo. The lanky
wooden figure of Kokuzo Bosatsu,

364

Route 36. — Nara and Neighhourhood.

8 ft. Mgh, and the wooden Kwannon
are said to be Indian. The walls are
covered ■wdth paintings of Buddhist
subjects, execTited in a noble man-
ner and attributed to the sculptor
Tori Busshi and to a Korean priest
of the same early period ; they pos-
sess extreme interest and value for
the history of Japanese art. Of
their great antiquity there can be
little doubt, and the excellence
of the style in itself confirms the
opinion that they are the work of
Korean artists, for they are superior
to anything known to have been
produced by Japanese painters.
The ground-floor of the pagoda con-
tains some very curious tinted tera-
cotta groups ascribed to Tori
Busshi : on the S., Amida with
Kwannon and Daiseishi ; on the E.,
Monju and J6my5 Koji or Yuima ;
on the N., the entry of Shaka into
Nirvana ; and on the W. Ms crema-
tion. The expression on the coun-
tenances of some of the weeping
disciples is excellent ; their costume
represents what was supposed by
the sculptor to be Indian dress.
The Dai-Kodb, or Great Ijecture
Hall, on the N. side of the closed
gallery, is dedicated to Yakushi and
a host of other deities.

On a mound behind stands an oc-
tagonal building linown as J/me
iu> Yakushi. The image of the
deity and the twelve smaller images
representing the Signs of the
Zodiac are attributed to Gyogi
Bosatsu. This temple is a unique
sight, being UteraUy hidden under
the enormous number of short
swords and metal miiTors j)lficed
there as offerings by men and
women respectively, whose prayers
for restoration to health have prov-
ed efficacious. Drills, presented by
persons who haVe been cured of
deafness, also Hne the Avails in
great numbers. The Kami no Do,
a buikling on the r., contains
colossal images of Shaka, ^lonju,
Fugen, the Shi-Tenno, a gi-oup
rej)resenting the death of Buddha,
and paintings depicting eight

scenes of his existence, viz. his
birth in the Tushita heaven, his
conception by Maya Bunin, his
birth on earth, admission into the
priesthood, temptations, perfec-
tion, preaching, and entry into
Nirvana. In the btiilding called
Sankyo-in, on the W. side of the
closed gallery, is an image of
Shotoku Taishi at the age of forty-
two, besides an Amida by Gyogi, a
Monju, a Miroku, and the Shi-
Tenno.

The principal annual festival at
Hdryviji is celebrated on the •22nd
day of the 9th moon, old style.

[Some 12 dio from Horyuji
stands Tatta, formerly pro-
nounced Tatsuta, which is
famous in Japanese poetry for
the maples lining the banks
of the river that flows pA'^t it.
Near Horyuji, too, is the misa-
sagi, or tumulus of Suinin Ten-
n5, a prehistoric ilikado who
is supi^osed to have reigned at
the beginning of the Christian
era. It is a large and striking
mound, gourd-shaped, planted
A^ith trees, and having a broad
new moat round it, and at one
end a smaU forii forming the
approach to a neat gravel
walk.]

The lover of the antique may
combine A\"ith Horyuji a visit to
Yakushi-ji, distant ^ tr. by jin-
rikisha. This ancient temple, also
known as NisM-no-Kyo, is now
much dilapidated ; but it enshrines
some of the grandest bronze
images bequeathed to us by
early Japanese — or more strictly
speaking, Korean — art. Such are
the gigantic Yakushi, aod the
images of Amida and his two
followers cast about the end of
the 7th century, and the Sho-
Kwannon, siiid to have been
made of gold from the fabulous
Mount ileru. The neighbouring
temples of Shodaiji and Saidaiji,
also much decayed owing to long
neglect, similarly merit the anti-

Route 37. — Through Yamato to Koya-scm and Wakayania. 365

quarian's attention. The bronze
images of the Shi-Tenno at Saidaiji,
cast in A.D. 765, are singled out
by Mr. Wm. Anderson for special
praise. At

Kashiwabara (not to be
confounded -with the hamlet of
like name containing the tumulus
of Jimmu Tennd) is a temple called
Domydji, to which yearly pilgrim-
ages are made. From

Yao, it is 50 cho to SMgl-sen,
the scene of a famous victory
by Shotoku Taishi over the rebel
Mononobe-no-Moriya. The temple
is dedicated to Bishamon, who is
supposed to have lent his assis-
tance to the victor. It is adorned
with the crest of centipedes pecu-
har to that divinity.

The traveller desiring to proceed
to K5be, will do best to drive across
Osaka from Minato-cho to Umeda
station.

ROUTE 3-

THEoufiH Yamato to the Monas-

teky of koya-san and to

Wakayama in Kishu.

mausoleum op jimmu tenno.

MIWA. HASE. (the THIKTY-THKEE
HOLY PLACES OF KWANNON.) TO-
NOMINE. YObHINO. OMINE AND THE
MOUNTAINS OF YAMATO. KOYA-SAN.
FROM KOYA-SAN TO SAKAI. KO-

KAWA-DERA. NEGORO-.TI. KIMH-

DEEA. WAKA-NO-UKA.

This route, though off the beaten
tracks, includes many names classic
to Japanese ears, and may be
specially recommended to lovers
of ancient religioiTs art, btit not to
persons unfamiliar with the native
language, customs, and history.
The wilds of Yoshino (see p. :J73)
offer an almost vitgiii tield to the
explorer.

The start can be made by rail
from Kyoto or Kobe, the line being
connected with the Nara-Osaka
Railway described in Route 36,
Sect. 4. Travellers change carriages
at (Iji.

f).ji-SAKUKAi Railway.

Names

.)f

Stations

Remarks

4ui.

7
10
V.i

OJI .Jet.

Shimoda
Takada
tJnebi
SAKUKAI .Jet. . .

( For Kiizu
1 (Yoshiuo)

The best plan is to take Jimmu
Tennd's Mausoleum between trains
from Unebi station, proceeding
thence to Sakurai also by train.
The rest of the route, partly by
road, partly by rail, as far as Waka-
yama, is as follows :

Itinera'-y.

SAKLTRAI to :— Pd Olid M.

Hase 1 23 4

Back to Sakurai 1 23 4

Tonomine 1 23 4

Kami-ichi 3 H 7|-

l^'oshino (about ) 25 1|

Miida „ 1 — 2J

GOJO / „ -^ 4 — 9|

TT I,- J. -(tram) > ., p*
Hashimoto i ^ 2 3 5

Kami;ro 1 — 2J

Kane (about) 1 34 4f

Kamiya 1 14 3i

KOYA-SAN ;, 1 14 3 J

Kokawa ,, S — 19^

Fiinato I , . 3 !i 8"

WAKAYAMA )"*^^ 3 2 Ih

Total (aboiit) 3-5 34 88

The train itinerary from Waka-
yama (Kitaguchi station) to Sakjii
is as follows :

366 Route 37. — Tlirough Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama.

Distance

from

Names of Stations

Wakayama

WAKAYAMA

5J m.

Fuke

Hako-tsukuri

Ozaki

13^

Tarui

17^

Sano

Kaizuka

22|

Kishiwada

Otsu

29^

Hamadera j

31f

Minato |

32|

SAKAI 1

The raising of a large mausoleum to
Jimmu Tenno, the Japanese Romulus, at
Kashiwabaia where his capital is believed
to have stood, may be legarded aa the cul-
minating point of the triumphant labours
of the archaeological and Shinto party,
which, beginning early in the 18th century
with the annotation of ancient texts
and the re-adoption of obsolete religious
usages, has ended in our own day by re-
storing the Mikado to his long lost author-
ity, while such comparatively modem
innovations as the Shogunate have been
trampled under foot, and the foreign reli-
gion. Buddhism, if not killed, at least
deprived of official favour and emolu-
ment. On Jimmu Tenno, as the first Mi-
kado, and on the other early monarchs
of his line, a portion of the political and
religious enthusiasm felt for their latest
descendant reflects itself. Yamato and
the adjacent provinces are dotted with
the tumuli — inisasagi as they are termed
— of these long-neglected nilers, which,
till within the last thirty years, were
treated with soant reverence by the pea-
santry who used there to cut fodder for
their cattle. Burial in dolmens, mostly
covered with such mounds, seems to have
been the usual method of sepulture down
to the 7th century, at any rate in the
case of distinguished personages, after
which time cremation and urdinarj' in-
terment came into vogue. All the prov-
inces west of Lake Biwa furnish dolmen
remains, aa does also a limited district in
the provinces of Kotsuke and Musashi in
Eastern Japan, where a branch of the Im-
perial family is known to have settled at
a very early date. The various Imperial
tumuli have now been identified, — not
perhaps in every case by methods suf-
ficiently strict to satisfy European
criticism, but at least by painstaking refer-
ence to the oldest available sources of
the national history ; and that some great
personages were interred under the

tumuli in question, is evident from the
gold and silver ornaments, the pottery,
swords, horse trappings, and other relics
dug out of them during the earlier stages
of the search. Curiously enough, no in-
scriptions have anywhere been discover-
ed, notwithstanding the fact that the
Chinese ideographs had been introduced
several centuries before this mode of
burial fell into desuetude.

However legitimately destructive Eu-
ropean criticism may be of the authenticity
of Jimmu Tenno'e history and of the
claims of any particular tumulus to the
name it is now made to bear, one cannot
but experience a feeling of interest and
respect in jsresence of such very an-
cient remains. This fertile plain of Yama-
to was the earliest historic centre of the
Japanese race, and has certainly for
thirteen centuries, and probably for a
much longer period, been the home of a
unique civilisation. The various Im)ierial
tumuli may now be recognised by the
barrier — generally a granite fence— sm--
rounding a hillock overgrown with trees,
and by the stone torii standing at the
entrance to a neat gravel walk. In some
cases the mound is gomd-shaped. of
considerable size, and surrounded by a
moat. Jimmu Tenno's tumulus is the
most sacred of all, though low and
inconspicuous.

Just before reaching the Tumu-
lus of Jimmu Tenno, we pass
1. that of the Emperor Sitisei, his
immediate successor. The wooded
hill seen ahead is Lhiehi-yama,
constantly mentioned by the early
Japanese poets. Jimmu Tenno's
tiimnlus hes at its N.E. foot ; the
hamlet of Kashiwabara and the
Mausoleum are 8 cho to the S.W.
To the r. rise Nij5-san or Fntago-
yama — so-called from its double
peak — and the long ridge of
Katsm'agi-yama and Kongo-san.
To the extreme 1. is Tonomine, the
highest point of a range on another
portion of which, further ahead,
may be seen glistening the white
walls of the castle of Takatori.
The tumulus was first enclosed in
1863, the outer stone fence dates
from about 1877, the granite screen
{tama-gaki) and large wooden torii
inside the grounds and nearest to
the actual tumulus, from 1890.
The torii is of peculiar construc-
tion, the lower portion being a
sort of lattice-work. An iron gate

Kashiwahara Mausoleum.. Mvtm.

367

in front of this torii bars access
to it, the ground beyond being
considered sacred ; and as the inner
bank is lined with trees, scarcely a
glimpse of the low tumnliis can be
obtained. The chief building op-
posite the entrance is intended to
accommodate the Imperial mes-
senger {chokushi-kwan), who comes
yearly to worship as the representa-
tivf' of the Mikado. The traveller
re-enters his jinrikisha to reach the
Mausoleum [Kashiwahara Jin-
ja), begun in 1S90, which resem-
bles a Shinto temple in style.
"What is called the Shinka-den
stands in front, the NaisM-dokoro
behind, joined to it by an oratory
(Norito-ya).

The Shinka-den is a kind of shed, 72 ft.
by 40 ft., in which the Mik;i(lo celebrates
the Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai) In the
Naishi-dokoro, also called Kashiko-dokoro.
is preserved a replica of the sacred minor
given to his ancestor by the Sun-Goddess,
the original of which is at her temple in
lae. When the Palace was destroyed by
fire in A.D. 960, the mirror flew out of the
building in which it was then deposited,
and alighted on a cherry-tree, where it
was found by one of the Naishl. a class of
females who attended on the Mikado.
Hencefoi-th these attendants always had
charge of it, whence the name NaMi-
dokoro. The alternative name of Kashiko-
dokoro signifies the " fearful (or awe-
inspiring) place." Both these buildings
formerly stood in the grounds of the
Imperial Palace at Kyoto.

In the court are planted an Ukon
no Tachihana and Sakon no Sakura,
as in the Kyoto Palace (see p. 328).
Either side of this block of biuldings
is lined by a gaUery. To the 1., out-
side the enclosure, is the Shinsenjo
where the offerings are prepared,
and beside it the temple office.
In the backgTOund, are godowns
for the various sacred treasures,
and at the entrance a house for the
Imperial envoy. The materials are
plain white wood and granite.

Returning past the tumulus the
way we came, and then diverging
to the r., we perceive in front a hill
much more like a large artificial
tumulus than any other in the
vicinity, but which is not account-

ed such. It is called Tenjin-yama,
because dedicated to the god Ten-
jin (see p. 56). Soon we reach the
town of

Sakurai (Inn. Taba-ichi), where,
however, there is nothing parti-
cular to see. Notice only the pe-
culiar effect produced here and
at other neighbouring towns by the
small tiled chimneys, resembling
miniature temple roofs, stuck on
above the actual roofs of the houses.
Altogether this district and the
adjoining province of Iga is a land
of tiles, with fancy end-pieces and
quaint tiled figures of beasts and
flowers. A spare J hr. at Sakurai
may be spent in visiting the ancient
Temple of Miwa {Inn, Maruhashi-
ya), which stands high, surroiuided
by an antique grove. Though now
a good deal neglected, the buildings
still retain traces of former state-
Kness. The temple is sacred to
the Shinto god Onamuji, and the
priests who minister at the altar
are said to be descended from a son
of that deity, named Otataneko.

The following legend concerning this
personage — a legend which also attempts
to explain the etymology of the name
Miwa— is translated literally from the
Kojiki :

The reason why this person called Ota-
taneko was known to be the child of a
god, was that the beauty of a maiden
uamed Iku-tama-yori-bime seemed peer-
less in the world to a divine youth, who
came suddenly to her in the middle of
the night. So, as they loved each other and
lived in matrimony together, the maiden
ere long became pregnant. Then the
father and mother, astonished at their
daughter being pregnant asked hei', say-
ing, " Thou are pregnant by thyself. How
art thou with child without having known
a man ? " She replied, saying: "I have
conceived through a beautiful young man,
whose name I know not, coming here
every evening and staying with me."
Therefore the father and mother, wish-
ing to know wlio the man was, command-
ed their daughter, saying : "Sprinkle red
earth in front of the couch, and pass
a skein of hemp through a needle, and
pierce therewith the skirt of his garment."
So she did as they had bidden ; and on
looking in the morning, the hemp thai
had been put in the needle went out
through the hole of the door-hook, and
all the hemp that remained was only

30)8 Haute ?u. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama.

three twists (Jap. mi wa). Then forth-
with Vnowing how he had gone out by the
hook-hole, they went on their quest fol-
lowing the thread, which reaihin<i Mount
Miwa. stopped at the shrine of the god.
So they knew that Otataneko was the
child of the god who dwelt there. So the
place was called by the name of Miwa,
because of the three twists of hemp that
had remained.

The excellent and picturesque
road from Sakurai to

Hase (Inns, Idani-ya and many
others), anciently and still in litera-
ture pronounced Hatsuse, leads up
the r. bank of the Hasegawa. The
valley suddenly narrows, and wood-
ed hills close the road in on every
side at the entrance to the little
town, which owes its existence to
the sanctity of the great Temple of
Hase-dera, or Chokokuji. This
temple is No. 8 of the Thirty-three
Holy Places.

(The "Thirty-three Places" —
Saikoku San-ju-san Sho — are thirty-
three shrines sacred to Kwannon,
the Goddess of Mercy, in the prov-
inces near Kyoto. They are aU
carefully numbered, the first being
Fudaraku-ji at Nachi in Kishti, and
the last Tanigumi-dera in IVIino.*

LeL;end traces the institution of these
"Thirty-three Places " to Tokudo Shonin,
a famous Buddhist abbot of the .stb cen-
tury. This holy man, having suddenly
died, was received by two emi^^saries of
Emma-O (see p. 47), the God or Regent of
the Under-world, and conducted to the
latter's iron castle that glitters with gold
and silver and with pearls and every
kind of precious stone. The god, him-

* The complete list is as follows : —

1. Fudaraku-ji, at Nachi in Kishu.

2. Kimii-dera, near Waliayama in
Kishu.

3. Kokawa-dera, in Kishu.

4. Sefuku-ji, in Izumi.

5. Fujii-dera, in Kawachi.

6. Tsubosaka-dera, in Yamato.

7. Okadera, in Yamato.

8. Hase-dera. in Y'amato.

9. Nan-endo, at Nara in Yamato

10. Mimuroto-dera, at Uji in Yamaahiro.

11. Kami Daigo-dera, at Uji in Yama-
shiro.

12. Iwama-dera. in Omi. _

13. Ishiyama-dera, neai- Otsu in Omi.

14. Miidera, neax' (>tsu in Omi.

15. Ima-Gumano, at Kyoto in Yama-
shiro.

self, resplendent as a jewel and beaming
with smiles, received the dead abbot with
distinguished attention, and forthwith
revealed to him the existence of Three-
and-thirty Places specially cared for by
the Goddess of ^lercy. Saviour of the
World (Gmni Kwan-ze-on), who had thus
divided herself into many bodies, wish-
ing to succour each human being in the
way best suited to his particular spiritual
antecedents. But alas ! none yet knew of
the existence of those shrines : so men
went on doing evil rather than good, and
kept falling into hell as i)lentifully as
the raindrops fall in a furious summer
shower, whereas a sinyle pilgrimage to
the Three-and-thirty Places would cause
the pilgrim to radiate light from the soles
of his feet, and give him strength to crush
all the one hundred and thirty-six hells
into fragments. "Should peradventure.
anyone that has accomplished the pil-
grimage fall into hell," said Emma-O.
"I myself will exchange with him, and
suffer in his stead, as a teller of false
tales. Here, therefore, is a list of the
Three-and-thirty Places. Carry it back to
the world of the living, and do the need-
ful in the matter. It was for this purpose
that I sent for thee hither." Tokudo
thanked the Regent of the Tender-world
for his kindness, but remarked that
mortals had grown sceptical in these
latter days, and would ask for a sign to
accredit his embassage. Thereupon
Emma-O gave him his own jewelled seal,
and the abbot was led back by the same
two attendants as before to the sinful
world.

Now what had happened there was,
that though he had lain as dead for three
days and three nights, his body had not
grown cold. His disciples therefore had
refrained from burying him, thinking that
he might possibly be restored to life.
When he did awake from the trance,
there, grasped in his right hand, was the
seal which the Regent of the Under-world
had given him. Then he told his disciples

IG. Kiyomizu-dera, at Kyoto.

17. Rokubara-dera, at Kyoto.

18. Rokkaku-do, at Kyoto,
ly. Kodo, at Kyoto.

'20. Yoshimine-dera, at Kyoto.

21. Anoji, in Tamba.

22. Sojiji, in Settau.

23. Katsuo-dera, in Setteu.

24. Nakayama-dera, near Kobe in Settsu.

25. Shin Kivomizu-dera, in Harima.

26. Hokke.ji, in Harima.

27. Shosha-san, in Harima.

28. Nareai-ji, in Tango.

29. Matsunoo-dera, in Wakasa.

30. (^hikubu-shima, island in Lake Biwa
in Omi.

31. ObcMueiji, in Omi.

32. Kwannonji, in Omi.

33. Tanigumi-dera, near Tarui in ilino.

Thirty-three Holy Places. JBasr.

369

all that had happened, and he and they
started off on a round of the Three-arid -
thirty Places, as the first pilgrims to
those holy shrines : and as the oldest
temple in Japan dedicated to the Merciful
Goddess was that of Nakayama-dera in
Settsu, which the Prince Shotoku Taishi
had built, they visited that first. There
also did he leave the jewelled seal in a
stone casket.

So far the legend. It would
seem that the pilgrimage fell into
disuse after the time of the Abbot
Tokudo, and was only brought
into permanent prominence more
than two centuries later by the
Emperor Kwazan, in obedience
to a vision. This monarch, while
himself still but a mere stripling,
lost his tenderly loved consort,
and having abdicated in A.D. 986,
became a monk, and made the
pilgiimage round the Three-and-
thirty Holy Places in the order
wliich has ever since remained un-
altered. In imitation of the orig-
inal Thirty-three Holy Places,
thirty-three other places have been
established in Eastern Japan, and
also in the district of Chichibu.

Each of the Thirty-three Places
has its pious legend, and also a
special hymn (go dka) which the pil-
grims chant several hundred times.
Though consisting of but thirty-
one syllables, as is the general rule
in Japanese poetical compositions,
most of these hymns require con-
siderable expansion to render them
intelligible in Enghsh, ovsdng to the
plays upon words and the obscure
conciseness affected by the com-
posers. The go eika for Hase
runs as follows : —

Iku tab! mo

Mairu kokoro wa
Hatsuse-dera.

Varna mo chikai mo

Fukaki tani-gawa

which is interpreted to mean,
" However oft I make the pil-
grimage to Hase's temple, my heart
is as greatly touched as if each
visit were the first ; for Kwannon's
mercy is higher than the moun-
tains, and deeper than the torrent-
riven valley.")

Founded early in the 8th cen-
tury and last rebuilt in A.D.
1650, Hase-dera (locally called
Kwannon-do) is one of the most
striking temples in Japan. It is
situated high up on the flank of a
hill above the town, and stands
half Tipon the rock, half upon a
lofty platform built out from the
rock, like KiyomizAi-dera at Kyoto.
The main gate, restored in 1894,
is at the top of a preliminary
flight of steps, whence three other
flights in zigzags, roofed over with
keyaki wood so as to form a
gallery, lead to the top of all.

On either side of this gallery are
beds of peonies, beautiful to be-
hold about the middle of May,
when they are in full bloom. The
innumerable slips of paper plaster-
ing the small shrine to the r., at
the top of the gallery, are pilgrims'
cards. The front part of the main
biiilding consists of an ex-voto hall
60 ft. long, in front of which is a
platform built out on piles and
commanding a view of the whole
valley. A stone-paved conidor
lined with lanterns runs between
this interesting ex-voto hall and the
holy of hoHes, where is enshrined
the enormous and far-famed gilt
image of Kwaunon, whose form
may be obscurely descried by the
dim light of lanterns. On payment
of a trifling fee, permission can be
obtained to enter this sanctum and
stand at her very feet. The en-
trance is at the back, where, on
either side of the door, will be
remarked two little wheels used
as charms whereby to foretell the
future. The inquisitive pilgrim
ties a wisp of paper to the wheel,
which he then turns rapidly. If
the paper wisp is at the bottom
when the wheel stops, any desire
he may have formed will come
true. The bamboo tallies also to
be noticed here, are used by pil-
grims who make the " thousand
rounds " of the building. Just
inside the door is a life-size image
of Kwannon, stanthng in front of a

370 Route 37. — Throaglt Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama.

large fresco of Shaka and the Five-
and-twenty Bosatsii of Paradise.
On its 1. hangs a gigantic man-
dara, 18 ft. broad by 30 ft. high,
representing that half of the uni-
verse called by the Buddhists Taizo-
kai. Both these paintings are
attributed to Kobo Daishi, as is
also a large kakemono of the god
Dainichi Nyorai hanging opposite
to the mandara. Thus we pass
round to the great image in front,
which is luade of camphor-wood
gUt, and towers to a height of 26 J
ft. On the 1. side of the sanctum,
before emerging, is seen another
mandara representing the half of
the universe called Kongo-kai. The
two mandara together contain
figures of three hundred Buddhas.
The Oku-no-in of this temple, in-
stead of being higher up the same
hill according to the usual custom,
stands on a separate hill 4 cho dis-
tant, and scarcely merits a visit.
The pagoda was destroyed by fire
in 1883 ; but subscriptions are be-
ing raised to restore it.

On leaving the Kwannon-d5 to
return to the vill., one may visit
a building known as the Senjo-
jiki, because containing a thou-
sand mats, which was formerly the
residence of the abbot. One room
alone has 150 mats, and all are
handsome with fusuma by an artist
of the Kano school.

[From Hase a road leads to the
shrines of Ise ; see p. 305. It
is much frequented by pil-
grims, who combine the Yama-
to-meguri, as it is called, or Tour
of the Holy Places of Yamato,
with a pilgrimage to the temple
of the Sun-Goddess.]

The 4 miles back froui Hase to
Sakurai are speedily traversed in
jinrikisha, the road being a sUght
descent the whole way. From
Saknirai likewise on to T5nomine
there is a jinrikisha road; but as
it soon becomes steep and is rough
in parts, good walkers may prefer
to go on foot. The whole way is

picturesque. At Shimomura, about
4" hr. oiit of Sakurai, a fine granite
iorii marks the outermost limit of
the sacred mountain, the actual
Tonomine being the trifurcated
summit seen ahead to the r. Many
hamlets are passed through. At
that of Kurahashi, but a little off
the road, is the Tumulus of Sujin
Tenno, one of the emperors of the
legendary era (said to have died
B.C. 30, at the age of 120).

DiU'ing some fiftfieu years, the Japanese
archaeologists hesitated between the con-
flicting claims of several neighbouring
spots. On the present site stood the little
Shinto temple of the hamlet, — a fact
which finally fixed their choice. The place
was laid out after the orthodox pattern
in 1891, the temple having been removed
to the hill opposite. The present writers,
who passed there while the work was in
progress, cannot say that anything much
resembling an artificial mound, or indeed
a mound of any sort, was discernible.

At the upper end of a village
called Yainai-eho, a covered brieve
leads across into the grounds of
the justly famed temple of

Tonomine (locally pronounced
Tojiomune), the way being along
an avenvie of monumental cryp-
tomerias. The magnificence of the
timber, the purling of the brook
below, the rich green everywhere,
and the deep shade combine to
form a scene at once impressive
and delightful. Jinrikishas may
go no further than the Ichi no Mon,
or First Oate.

This name does not indicate that there
are many successive gates to be passed
through. There is but one on the Yainai-
cho side. I'he Wi no Mon, or Second
Gate, is on the other side of the moun-
tain, by which the traveller departs.

The stone walls beyond it, serv-
ing to keep some teiTaces in place,
are all that remain of a large num-
ber of priests' dwellings and minor
temple buildings piilled down
diiring the present reign.

The temple ot Tonomine, one of the
most perfect specimens of Kyobu Shinto
architecture, was raised in honour of a
celebrated nobleman and statesman of
the 7th century, named Kamatari, who
had two sons, Tankai and J6-e. The latter

Temple of Tonomine.

371

it was who bnilt the temple, liringinK
back with him from China, whither he
had been font to study, all the materinla
for the thii tteii storied pagoda, with the
exception of the top storey which proved
to be more thau his jiiuU could hold. In
those daj's. however, such mishaps were
easily remedied, and the thiiteenth storey
flew after him acroRS the sea on a (loud,
and so completed the edifice. According!
to tradition, Kamataii and his friends
retired to this mountain to plan the as-
finssination of Soga-no-Iruka, a nobleman
who had ingratiated himself with the
Eraprosa Kogyoku, and formed the bold
design of placing himself on the throne.
Hence the name of Dumu no Mine, or
Conference Peak, the word Damn, being
afterwards corrupted to To.

On arriving at the great red torii,
we turn to the r. and ascend several
steep flights of steps, to the r. of
which is a fine grove of maples,
•whose tints (about the 10th Novem-
ber) are far-famed. Again turning
to the r. at the top of the steps, we
find ourselves at the llonsha, or
main shiine, connected with an
oratory in the somewhat unusual
form of a gallery, which v/ears the
aspect of an exhibition, as the god's
sacred car, and other temple '• pro-
perties," drums, an'ows, and old
swords of which the temple posses-
ses four thousand, are there laid
out in rows. All the temple build-
ings are red and white, the main
shrine being furthermore decorated
with gold and green arabesques
and geometrical designs, besides
beautiful carvings of birds and
elaborate metal fastenings.

Round it is a paling (tama-gaki),
vsdth storks and tortoises inside
groups of flowers. Green blinds
hide the doorways, to each of which
three polished miiTors are attached.
The side shrines are dedicated to
Kamataii's two sons. Dragons in
sepia on a gold ground adorn the
lower cross-beams of the portico,
and a beautifully executed pair of
bronze lanterns bearing diT,te 1755
stand in front of the shrine. The
transverse panel in the verandiih
on its E. side has a white phoenix,
while on the corresponding panel
on the W. side is a peacock, ihe

roof consists of thick shingling.
As at Kasuga in Nara, a troupe of
young girls and musicians is in
readiness here to perform the Jcagu-
ra dance for a small fee. '1 he other
principal object of interest is the
small thirteen-storied, or more cor-
rectly speaking thirteen-roofed,
pagoda. The grounds contain
numerous other buildings, many of
which are now left empty, as the
Shinto cult has no use for them.
One, seen on the way down and
showing traces of elaborate decora-
tion, is the burial-place of Kama-
tari's wife. The IGth April and
17th November are the two great
festival days at Tonomine.

Here, as from so many other
places, women were formerly ex-
cluded. They were only allowed
to worship from afar, at a temple
called Nyonin-do, which the priest
will point out on the hill opposite.

Close to the exit from the temple
enclosure are two excellent inns, call-
ed Koyo-kwan and Hananaka-ya.
A short but steep ascent leads up
hence to the A'i no Man, or Second
Gate, where the temple grounds are
qiiitted. From here it is a good J
hr. walk to i>hiken-jaija, a hamlet
which belies the import of its name
(lit. " four tea-houses "), by having
no tea-houses at all. It affords,
however, a fine view of the plain
that stretches towards Nara. Begin-
ning at the r., the mountains seen
are : — Tenjpo-zan, Futago-yama,
Katsuragi-yama, Kongo-san ; next,
but in the much further distance,
Koya-san, and to its 1., that is to
the south of the spectator, the sea
of mountains covering southern
Yamato. Close at hand is a tumu-
lus Ciilled Uba-<ja-mori, marked by
a clump of trees and the usual rail-
ing. Hah' the horizon — the N. and
E. side — is unfortunately shut out
from view by the hiUy nature of
the foregi'oimd.

From Shiken-jaya to the top of
the Ryuzai-toge is called a distance
of 1 ri, but must be considerably
less. The way lies mostly through

872 Route 37. — Through Yamaio to Koya-aan and Wakayama.

a deliglitful wood of cryptomerias
and chamascypitris trees ; but some
of the hillsides are laid bare from
time to time.

The Japanese plan is not to thin out
timber gradually, as we do, but to shave
whole hillaides" bare and then let them
alone for many years, while others are
aimilai-ly treuied iu rotation. This me-
thod saves trouble, as all the timber is
simply rolled down to the bottom of the
valley without encountering auj- obstacle,
— if "i^os-sible, to a stream where it is
floated down, either in separate trunks or,
where the breadth of the stream permits,
in the form of rafts.

The view from the Ryuzai-toge,
thougli pretty, is less extensive
than" that from Shiken-jaya. The
way onward is downhill, ^\■ith the
exception of the short Yumihari-
toge. Several hamlets are passed
throngh before entering

Kami-iciii {Inn, Tatami-ya), a
fair-sized town on the r. bank of the
Yoshino-gaica . The prospect up the
river is pretty, and those to whom
the classical Uterature of .Japan is
familiar will be interested to gaze
on Imoyama, the conspicuous and
thicldy wooded hill about i m.
distant.

The early erotic ijoets of Japan make
constant mention of Imose-y-nna, which
name is interpreted to meau Imo-yanw
and Se-yama. or -'Monnt Misire.^s" and
'•Mount Lover." The former of the two
is here at Kami-ichi : but no -OJount
Lover" can be finmd in actual geography
to correspond with the orthodox inter-
pretation. Vaiious explanations have
been iiropo.-^ed. Some say that he has
been separated from liis mistress, and
washed awaj" down the river to Waka-no-
ura in Kishii, while others go so far as to
hint that, like the much-quoted Mrs.
Harris, he never existed at all.

"We now cross the singularly
limpid river to the town on the
other side, called Iljai, the passage
being effected by bridge in -^ijiter,
by ferry in summer.

A similar arrangement obtains at
other places along the course of this
river, the reason being that the summer
floods often pour down wiVn such re-
sistless force as to sweep all before them.
Of course the bridges erected for use dur-
ing the dry season are not costly, and the
plaiiks are stowed away to do service
«gaiu the following year."

The temple buildings at Egai,
standing on a shght elevation
and hiiving a parapet in fi'ont,
belong to the Monto sect of
BuddMsts. Proceeding a short way
do'WTi the stream and then turning
south, we enter the lower hills.
Chen-y-trees hne the path, and cover
the hillside for a considerable
distance up to the entrance of the
small town of

Yoshino (Inns, * Tiitsumi-ya,
Sako-ya), which is built along the
top of a naiTow spur, and consists
almost entii'ely of inns and of shops
for the sale of ai-licles attractive
to pilgiims.

[Yoshino may also be reached
in 1| hr. direct fi"om Nara by
rail to Oji, Takada, and Kuzu,
changing cars t^vice e)i route.
From Kuzu it is some 4 n
by jiniiMsha over the steep
Kuriirna-zaka-tdije. An alterna-
tive is to alight at Unebi station,
whence 4.} ri to Mudn by jin-
lildsha, and 1 hr. walk up to
the village.]

Duiing the week or ten days in
mid-Apiil when the cherry-trees are
in blossom, the Kttle collage has all
the bustle of a camp, and it may be
advisable to engage rooms before-
hand.

These trees, which are supposed to
number exactly a thousand, but are leally
much more numeroua, have for centuries
been famous throughout Japan. There
is no sight in the land comparable to
them for beauty when covered with deli-
cate pale pink blossom. Further up the
mountain side, beyond the town, is a
second i3l:;utation.

Half-way up the town stands
a huge bronze tor'ii, built of broad
rings 4 ft. in diameter, and indi-
cating the approach to the large
temple of Zo-o-do.

Founded by (iyogi Bosatsu early in the
8th century_as an oflshoot of the temple
raised on cJmine by his master Eu-uo-
Shc5kaku, this temple has undergone
many vicissitudes The present build-
ings date, for the most part, from 1591.
Early iu the present reign, they were
taken from their Buddhist occupants, and
handed over bv the Government to the

Yoshino. High Mountains of Yamato.

373

Shintoists : but in 188G they were handed
back from the Shintoists to the Bud-
dhists, when the colossal statue of Zo-o
Gongen and the other temple properties
were restored to their original places,
though with a lustre somewhat dimmed
by poverty and neglect.

A large red two-storied g.ite and
two flights of steps lead up into
the court fronting the great temple
hall. The pillars supporting this
lofty building are huge trunks,
lopped of their branches and rough-
ly trimmed. Their gradually taper-
ing form recalls the way in which
the stone columns of Doric temples
derived their shape from the primi-
tive trunks which they replaced.
One of the pillars is a gigantic
azalea, at least 30 inches in diame-
ter, brought from Mount <_)mine,
where those shrubs frequently attain
to an enormous size ; the rest are
cryjjtomerias. Ex-voto pictures of
proportionate dimensions and great
age adorn the walls of the portico.
The hiige image of Z6-5 Gongen
carved by Cryogi Bosatsu, standing
behind the altar, is 26 ft. high and
of tenific aspect, and is flanked by
statues scarcely less colossal (22
ft.) of Kwannon and Miroku. All
three Uft their r. foot to trample
on the cIoikIs, and the 1. to trample
on the four gi-eat oceans. Their
stern expression shows that their
minds are bent on repressing the
demons of which the universe is
full.

A little further on is Yosldmizu
Jinja, a small temple in which
Yoshitsune (p. 88) and Benkei
(p. 71) are said to have spent three
years, and which later, in the 14th
century, served as the abode of
the fugitive monarch Go-Daigo
(p. 72). Every tree, every stone
in the enclosure has a name recall-
ing some act of one or other of
these three personages,- — the tree to
which Yoshitsune made fast his
horse, the rock into which Benkei
drove two iron nails to prove his
strength after seven days of abstin-
.ence, etc. The room which Go-

Daigo used to occupy is still shown,
as are various works of art. On
the hill opposite, 7.} cho distant,
stands the temple of Nyoirin-ji,
where (xo-Daigo lies buried.

There are several minor temples,
but Z6-6-do is the only one that
wiU interest most travellers. Yo-
shino is noted for its kuzu, a kind
of starch, which is sold both in the
pure state and also as a sweetmeat
in the shape of cherry-blossoms, a
real blossom of last season's bloom-
ing being enclosed in each dain-
tily done up box. The starch, when
properly made, is very palatable,
and almost indistinguishable fi-om
American corn-starch.

[Yoshino is the name, not only
of a town, but of the suiTound-
ing extensive tract of wild
mountainous country, to ex-
plore ^^•hich it affords a
convenient starting-point; and
neither the mountaineer nor
the botanist will regret devot-
ing some days to this object.
The peaks vary from 5,000
ft. to 6,000 ft. in height.
The names of the principal
ones are Misen, Shaka-ga-take,
Omine (locally pronounced
Umune). Inamura, and Shiehi-
men-zan. The narrow valleys
intervening between their
spurs stipport a scanty but
industrious population, who,
by tenacing even the steepest
hillsides, contrive to raise suffi-
cient barley for their sub-
sistence. Yet a wide tract
remains iininhabited, and
much of it is even untravers-
ed. Boars and the goat-faced
antelope abound ; and a few
deer and bears, with an occa-
sional wolf, are also to be seen.
The boars are so numerous,
that throughout tliis region all
cultivated plots have to be pro-
tected fr-om their inroads by
strong stockades called fihishi-
ifaki, and it is not uniisual to see
a whole vaUey thus fenced in.

374 Route 37. — Through Yamalo to Eoya-san and Wakayama.

The summits are iilmost with-
out exception clothed at high
elevations with forests consist-
ing chiefly of conifers, beeches,
and oaks both evergreen and
deciduous, magnolia- trees, etc.;
but the lower slopes are not
infi'equently covered with
plantations of cryptomeria and
chamsecyparis. 'Ihere are also
a few small copper-mines ;
but timber-cutting and timber-
dressing form the chief employ-
ment of the peasantry.

The distance from Yoshino
to the top of Omine, though
locally estimated at 6 ri, is
probably less ; anyhow, the
expedition there and back
occupies the whole of a long
summer's day. The fatigue
connected with it arises from
the fact of its not being a
single climb, but a succession of
ups and downs over Kotenjb,
Oienjo, etc. From a resting-
place called Dorotsvji to the top
is the worst bit, where ladders
have been placed against the
steep rocks. The pilgrims
choose this spot for changing
their waraji and washing their
hands, to avoid provoking the
wrath of the god by trespass-
ing on his domain in a state
of impurity, 'ihe summit is
sacred to the Buddhist saint
who first trod it, En-no-
Shokaku ; and there, in front of
a temple erected in his honour,
may be seen several fine bronze
images, which represent him
equipped for a pilgrimage, with
one-toothed clogs on his feet,
and accompanied by his faith-
ful demons Zenki and Gold.
The view is very fine, even the
cone of Fuji being visible on a
clear day, though not less than
180 miles distant.

From the summit of Omine,
it is a 2 hrs. descent to a
place called Dorogawa, which,
being resorted to by pilgrims

bound for K5ya-san, possesses
several inns.

From Dorogawa back to Yo-
shino through a succession of
deep, thickly wooded valleys at
the W. foot of the range, is an
easy walk of 4 ri.

A fully equipped moun-
taineer might, after sleeping at
Dorotsuji or at the top of
Omine, proceed to make the
ascent of Misen and of Sha-
ka-ga-take, — one day for
each mountain, descending to
Dorogawa as before.

In i)roceeding fi-om Y'^oshino
to Koya-san, pedestrians may,
instead of taldng the easier
jinrikisha route _described
below, go over Omine to
Dorogawa, whence a day and
a half by the pilgrim route
leading along the lovely valley
of the Ten-nokaioa, with its
limpid stream, its picturesque
rocks, and its pinnacled and
grandly timbered hills, — 12 ri.
Fair accommodation at Hirose,
Sakamoto (at foot of the Ten-
gu-mi-toge), and other villages.

Rougher, but still feasible,
would be a trip down the
eastern side of the range, via
the limestone caves of Kashv-
wagi, to Nanairo on the upper
waters of the Kitayama-gawa,
and so on to Doro-Hatcho and
Shingu, see Eoute 38.]

On leaving Yoshino for Koya-san,
a walk of 1 hr. offering a succes-
sion of dehghtf ul views, leads down
to the Yoshino-gawa, which is
crossed at a point shortly below
Kami-ichi, fi-om a village called
Saso on the 1. bank to one named
Muda or Midsuda (Inn, Hara-ya)
on the r. The extremely sharp
peak seen to the r. on the way down,
is the Takami-toge on the borders
of the province of Ise. It is in-
teresting to watch the rafts de-
scending the river. Though very
long, they glide easily among the
shoals, under the management of

Valley of Yof<lu'no-gawa. Monaatary of Koya-san. 375

aMIfnl steersmen, because built in
sections having a partly independ-
ent motion, like the cars of a
railway train. Jinrikishas can be
taken the whole way from Mnda to
Kamuro. The road, which leads
down the r. bank of the river, is
excellent, and the scenery pleasant-
ly rural, though not calling for
special remark. It would show to
better advantage if the traveller
came from the opposite direction,
as the higher mountains would
then be in fi'ont instead of behind.
Between the hamlets of Ada and
Uno, the road diverges fi'om the
river to climb a gentle ascent called
Uno-toge. Of the high mountain
mass visible from the Ada tea-
house, the portion to_ the r. is
Omine, that to the 1. Otenjo. At
the hamlet of Sanzai, the road
from Osaka joins in on the r.,
Kongo-san rising just beyond in
the near distance.

Gojo (Inn, Omote-ya) is a fair-
sized town, with plenty of tea-
houses. Train may bo availed of
from here to the next large place,

Hashimoto (Inn, Yoshino-ya),
where again taking jinrikisha, one
crosses to the 1. bank. The vill. of

Kamuro (Inns, Kome-ya, Tama-
ya) stands at the entrance of the
side valley leading up to Koya-san,
its raison d'etre being the accom-
modation of pilgrims to that shrine.
Bands of pilgrims may be found
taking a meal there at any time of
day in spring, the fare provided
being vegetarian when they are on
their way up as contrite sinners,
but generously supplemented with
fish and eggs — the Japanese sub-
stitutes for meat — when they are
returning downwards, pardoned and
at peace with all the gods. The
traveller will probably be told at
Kamuro that the distance to Koya-
san is only 3 ri ; but the ri in this
mountain disti'ict consists of 50
eho, which brings the distance up
to 4 ri 6 did of standard mea-
surement, or 1Q\ miles English. It
must all be walked or done in

kago, and is a succession of steep
ups and downs, the former pre-
dominating ; but the eye is so
charmed at every turn that fatigue
is forgotten. Several viJlages are
passed through, of which the best
are Kane (Inn, Naka-ya) and
Kamiya (Inn, Hana-ya). During
the first half of the walk, beautiful
glimpses are obtained from time to
time of the Yoshino-gawa flowing
far below. There is little or no
shade, and the palmettos on the
hillsides bear witness to the excep-
tional warmth of the climate of
this district. For the second half,
the way leads up amidst magnifi-
cent timber, chiefly conifers, to be-
hold which and to enjoy whose deli-
cious shade and fragrance, would
of itself repay the trouble of the ex-
pedition. Most of the finest speci-
mens are chauifecyparis. Strangely
enough, but few examples are seen
of the species to which Koya-san
has given its name — the Koya-maki
(Sciadojiytis verticillata). This su-
perb forest, which now belongs no
longer to the priests but to the cen-
tral government, rings with the
rhythmic chant of the coolies who
laboriously bear down the timber
from mountain recesses situated
above the monastery. It is thus
convej^ed to Wiiliayama, the capi-
tal of the province, and thence
shipped in junks to Tokyo. A
bridge little worthy of its high-
sounding name, Gokvraku-bashi,
that is, the Bridge of Paradise,
marks the beginning of

Koya-san proper (1,040 ft.), and
of the last and steepest portion of
the cUmb.

[Koya-san may also be reached
direct fiom Kobe by rail via
Osaka, Oji, and Takadix to Ha-
shimoto in about 5.i hrs., whence
walk up as indicated above.]

The forest grows thicker and
thicker, till at last we reach a
plain black gate forming the back
entrance (Fudazaka-gnc.hi) to the
temple gi-ounds. The exceptionally

376 Route 37. — Through Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama.

fine bronze image of Jizo just
outside dates from the year 1745,
— the gift of a female devotee.
The smaller but handsome bronze
Kwannon inside the gate to the 1.
dates from 1852. From here it is
but a few yards to the Sankei-nin
Torishirabe-sho, or Office for the Ex-
amination of Pilgrims, where the
traveller will be asked whence he
Gomes and at which temple he
desires to lodge, and will then be
furnished gi-atis with a guide to
conduct him thither ; or, if he have
no preference and no letter of intro-
duction, some lodging will be as-
signed to him. This question of the
lodging is important, as Koyasan
has no inns. The temples do duty
for them, — or rather the priests'
residences included in the Japanese
term for a Buddhist temple {tera).
Many are apt to be too full of
pilgrims of the lower class to afford
pleasant quarters. The most aris-
tocratic are Shojo Shin-in pos-
sessing fine suites of rooms, Henjo
Ko-in, Kong5 Sammai-in, and Joki-
in. The people at Kamuro will
probably endeavour to persuade the
traveller into patronising some in-
ferior house, with which they are in
league. Of course the priestly hosts
provide no foreign food, neither is
fish or flesh of any sort tolerated in
the village, though liquor is permit-
ted. The visitor, therefore, who
cannot make up his mind to vege-
tarianism for a single day had
better see the sights, and go on
to one of the villages below. In
any case he should remember that
his hosts are monks, not innkeepers,
and must refrain from ordering
them about. There is no fixed
charge for board and lodging ; but it
behoves the visitor to be liberal,
and to give at least as much as he
would pay in a first-class inn. The
service of the rooms is all done by
acolytes, no woman being admitted
to any such employment. Indeed,
it is only since the last revolution
that women have been permitted to
Qiake the pilgrimage at aU. None

may even live in the village, the
business at all the shops being ex-
clusively in men's hands, whence
possibly the exceptional silence
pervading the place. The pilgrims
are wakened before dawn, and the
traveller may, if he likes, assist at
matins, which service is performed
in a hixll lined with thousands of
funeral tablets, prayers being off-
ered up for the souls of those whose
names are inscribed thereon.

Kongbbuji — for that is the proper name
of the monastery, Koya-san beiug only
the name of the mountain on which it
stands — is one of the oldest religious
foundations in Japan. It dates from A.D.
816, having been then founded by the
rrreat saint, Kobo Daishi, to whom the
Emperor Saga made a grant of land for
the purpose. As Kobe Daishi was on his
way up the mountain, he met Kariba
Myojin, the Shinto god of the locality,
who, being addicted to the chase, was ac-
companied by two dogs. This god pro-
mised his protection to the monastery,
and in return for this the Shinto temple
of Nyii, dedicated to the mountain-god's
mother, was afterwards built in one of
the neighbouring valleys. This legend is
the explanation given of the toleration of
dogs on Koya-san, while no other animals
are permitted to enter the precincts.
Other prohibitions existed in former
times against musical instruments, the
planting of bamboos or trees that could
be turned to profit, archery and football,
gambling and checkers, bamboo brooms,
and three-pronged hay-forks. The princi-
pal medijeval benefactors of the monas-
tery were the Emperor Shirakawaand the
Taiko Hideyoshi. The latter's nephew
and adopted son Hidetsugu committed
harakii i here. Ivoya-san has experienced
no striking reverses, though, like all
Kuddhist monasteries, it has sufl'ered to
some extent from the recent disestablish-
ment of Buddhism. Its greatest enemy
has been fire. The conflagrations of 1843
and 1888 were the most disastrous during
the past century. The great pagoda
perished on the former occasion, and has
never been restored. On the latter, when
the fire lasted for two days ( 11th— 12th
February), large numbers of the priests'
dwellings were swept away, but fortu-
nately no edifice of special imijortance.
A treasure of which the monastery is
justly proud is a collection of eight thou-
sand scrolls of the Buddhist scriptures
written in letters of gold and elaborately
ornamented with silver designs. These
scrolls are valued at over half a million yen.

The sights of K5ya-san take half
a day to see. The first and most im-

Great Gemelery.

377

pressive is an enormous Cemetery,
throiigh which leads an avenue of
cryptomerias 18 cho long ; or rather
the cemetery is a kind of irregtfiar
avenue laid along a niagniticent
cryptomeria forest. Not that most
of the bodies are actually interred
here. In many cases the so-called
tomb is merely a moniiment raised
to the memory of the dead believ-
er, who, through this nominal
burial by the side of Kobo Daishi,
obtains the spiritual privilege of re-
birth into the Tosotsti Heaven, or
into Jodo, " the Pure Land of Per-
fect Bliss." In other cases, after
the corpse has been cremated, the
Adam's-apple and some of the teeth
are sent to Koya-san, these remains
being consigned to a common pit
called Kotsu-do, or the Hall of Bones,
in the case of persons who cannot
go to the expense of a separate
tomb. At all events, their funeral
tablets are sent to the monastery
to be prayed over daily. As one
walks along the avenue, a special
cicerone who has all the names by
heart, points out the most impor-
tant graves. After crossing the
Ichi no Hafthi, or First Bridge over
the tiny Odogawa, the monuments
of the Daimyos of Sendai, Uwajima,
Kago, and Satsuma are among those
first passed. Such noblemen's mon-
uments may be distinguished
from those of commoners by their
peculiar pagoda shape (Jap. sotoha or
gorin, see p. 44). A little off the road
to the r. are the graves of the cele-
brated heroes Atsumoii and Kuma-
gai Naozane, and then those of the
I)aimyos of Hizen, Matsumae, and
Choshu ; then — but we can only
pick out a few names from among
thousands — the early warrior Tada-
no-Manju (this is the oldest monu-
ment in the cemetery), the 16th
century chieftain Takeda Shin gen,
the Hachisuka family, li-Kamon-
no-Kami, the Daimyds of Tosa, the
traitor Akechi Mitsuhide whose
monument has been riven from top
to bottom by a thunderbolt as a
warning to faithless servants, and

so on ad ivfinitum. In the case of
great families, many subsidiary
monuments surround the chief one
in the little enclosure, and before
this often stands a torii, the stone
for which, as for all the monuiuents,
is brought from a place in the prov-
ince of Bizen called Mikage, a word
that has come to be the Japanese
name for " granite." The monu-
ment of the Ichikawa Danjuro fami-
ly of actors, just before reaching the
Naka no Ilashi, or jMiddle Bridge, is
distinguished by a thin piEar. That
with a praying-wheel in front is de-
dicated to Jizo, and is called the
Ase-kaki Jizo, because believed to be
covered every morning with the per-
spiration which that god's sufTf-rings
in hell for the good of the hun)a,n
race brmg out on his body. The
Daimyds of Geishu have the second
largest monument in the cemetery,
those of Suruga the largest of ail, 28
ft. high. Next we come to that of
the Iiuperial Princess Sei-Kwan-In-
no-Miya, to those of the celebrated
poet Basho, of the saint Enko
Daishi, of Asano Takumi-nn-Kami
(the unhappy lord of the Forty-
seven Eonins), etc., etc. We next
arrive at a shrine containing one
thousand gilt images of Amida, with
another beside it having a statue
of Kobo Daishi at the age of forty-
two, carved by himself ; and after
that another temple, with pictures
(mandara) by the same saint of the
two halves of the Buddhist universe
(Kongd-kai and Taizo-kal). The
next feature in the ^\aU\: is afforded
by some bronze images of Jizo,
Fudo, and Dainichi, placed behind
a trough of water. Believers sprin-
kle this water over the images, in
order to benefit the souls of their
own ancestors. Immediately be-
yond is a small bridge called
Mumyo no Hashi, or the Nameless
Bridge, a corniption of Mi-myo no
Hashi, or Bridge of the August
Mausoleum. It is believed that no
one can cross this bridge who, for
moral reasons, is unacceptable to
Kobo Daishi.

378 Rome 37. — Tnrough Yamato to Koya-sm and Wokayama.

There is a tradition that Hidcyoshi
made a pilfrriniage bither after he liad
risen to tlie highest posidon in the em-
pire, and, accompanied by the high priest
alone, came at ni^ht as far as tbe bridge,
crossed it. and turned back again witliout
going as far as tjie tomb, thus satisfj-ing
himstlf tiiat the .slaughter he had been
compelled to make of his enemies in
order to seize the supreme power and
restore peace to the nation, was approved
by Kobo Daishi. and that he might now
pay his formal vi-it on the morrow in full
stiite, acc-nipimied by all the princes,
without fear of being put to shame before
them.

A separate enclosure to the 1.
contains the luipretentious monn-
nients of seyeral Mikados. We next
reach the Mandbro, or Hail of Ten
Thousand Lamps, but first look in
at the octagonal Kotsv-do, or Hall
of Bones already mentioned, and
peer through the gate of the Go
Byd, or Tomb of E.6b5 Daishi,
which is never opened save on the
21st day of the 3rd moon, old style,
when new vestments are provided
for the dead saint. We also per-
ceive two small SJiinto shrines just
showing through the thick trees.
The Mand5ro is a wooden building
ICO ft. long, and somewhat less
tlian half that in depth, ^vith closed
grated shutters. As far as the eye
can penetrate the diirkness of the
interior, countless brass lamps may
be seen ranged in rows. Of these
only about one hundred are kept
lighted, the present reduced state
of the monastery's excheqiier not
permitting expenditure on a more
lavish scale.

No offering can be more acceptable in
the eyes of Buddhistic piety than burn-
ing Limpa, which typify the refulgent
wisdom of the gods lUinichi and Amida.
A story is told which recalls the Bible
story of the widow's mite : — On some
great occasion a rich man presented ten
thousand lamps, while a poor woman,
who had nothing, cut off her long tresses
to make up money enough to present a
single linnj. Nevertheless her offering
was the more acceptable of the two ; and
when a gust of wind arose, the rich man's
ten thousand limps were all blown out,
while the poor woman's single lanix)
shone on with increased brilli.-incy. Ac-
cordingly the largest lamp in thehall is
called the Hlnja no lUo, or Poor Woman's
Single Limp.

So far the CJemetery. The travel-
ler now returns the way he came,
and after picking up his higgage
at *the temple where he spent tlae
night, will see the rest of the sights
on his way to the gate leading in
the direction of Walayama.

Leaving the temple where we
have lodged, we wend through the
village, accompanied as before by
our priestly guide, sad traces of the
great fire of 18SS being visible all
around. First we Aisit the Kongo-
bvji, or abbot's residence, an un-
usually handsome specimen of
Japanese domestic architecture,
adorned with gold sliding-screens
by Kan5 Tan-yu, Sesshu, Tanzan,
and other classical artists. An old-
fashioned arrangement to be seen
here, as in other residences of
the monks, is what is called the
irori no ma, or " hearth room,"
which is an apartment having a
large square cliimney like a pillar,
and a small altar on one side. The
monks sit round this heated piUar
in winter to recite their scriptures.
The room where Hidetsugu com-
mitted harakiri after he had fallen
into disgrace v^ith his father, has
been restored exactly in the style
of his period (end of 16th centirry).

We next proceed to the Shichi-do
Garan (see p. 43), or temples pro-
per, and passing by several which
are luiinteresting, stop to examine
the

Kondo, or Golden Hall. Burnt
in l'^4:3, but restored in 1852, this
grand edifice fully deserves its
name, for the interior is ablaze ■with
gold and glorious colouring. Nor is
it only beautiful. The keyaki wood,
of which the huge beams and col-
umns consist, iiroclaims its solidity;
and even the magnificent carvings
adorning the exterior are of the
same material, some of the slabs
being '.) ft. long by 4 ft. high. The
plan of the building is three squares,
one within the other. The outer-
most of these squares is the un-
coloxired carved shell just mention-
ed ; that next to it is the gejin or

Monastery of Koya-^an.

379

nave, while the innermost is the
vmjin or chancel ; and this it is that
the artist has so splendidly decorat-
ed with gold, with paintings of
angels and Buddhist deities, and
with coloured carvings of birds.
Images of the deities Kongd Satta.
Fudo, Fugen, Kon-g5-o, Gozanze
My5-o, and Kokuzo Bosatsu stand
on a raised dais, whose sides are
filled in with the peony and lion in
gilt open-work, while the ceiling
above them glows with rich paint-
ings of dragons with a phcenix in
their midst. The shrine guarded
by these images contains one of the
god Yakushi carved by Kobo Daishi
himself. The mandara hanging to
the pillars represent, as usual, the
two halves of the Buddhist universe.
On le.aving, notice the paintings of
the Sixteen Eakan, which are about
9 ft. sq. and executed in an ex-
tremely florid style. The holy men
are painted in four groups.

In an adjacent building some
gigantic gilt images of the Go-chi
Nyorai, or Five Gods of Wisdom,
formerly in the Pagoda, have novv^
their temporary abode. The Haifa,
or Western Pagoda, is a two-storied
building of a curiously complicated
style of construction. Among other
minor buildings, may be mention-
ed two small Shinto shrines de-
dicated to the aboriginal Japanese
gods who ruled the mountain before
Kobo Daishi's advent, — briJHantly
painted with red ochre, and form-
ing a striking contrast to the ad-
jacent gi'ey unpainted Buddhist
shrines ; also the Kyodo, or Revolv-
ing Library, elegantly constructed
in the shape of a two-storied pagoda,
and the Mici-dj, containing a cele-
brated portrait of Kobo Daishi
painted by his disciple Prince Shixi-
nyo, the eyes of which were dotted
in by the saint himself.

Leaving the enclosure that holds
all these buildings, we turn r., and
see ahead the summit of Jin-fjn-
mine, 50 cho distant from the tar
end of the great Cemetery, and
affording — at least so the monks

declare — a view over portions of no
less than thirty provinces. To the
1. is the Seminary ( Gakurin), which
is not usually visited, but which
is excellently fitted up to accom-
modate the 120 indoor students and
200 outdoor students who resort to
it for theological instruction. Since
1895, " general Buddhism " (what-
ever that may be) has, by govern-
ment order, replaced the exclusive
teaching of the doctrines of the
Shingon sect, and modern sciences
have been added to the cuniculum.
Some of the class-rooms are fitted
up in European fashion with
benches and blackboards, while
others retain the old Japanese style,
— -mats, a sort of dais for the
lecturer, and a kakemono of Kobd
Daishi at one end of the room.
Each bedroom is shared by two or
three students. Before meals, a
long Budflhist grace is intoned.

The inspection of the Seminary
concluded, we retrace our steps a
little, and soon reach what is
called the front gate (omote-mon)
of the monastery grounds, a hand-
some structure decorated with
carvings by Hidari Jingord, which
leads in the direction of Waka-
yama; for the Kamuro w^ay by
which we came, and which is now
the more frequented of the two, is
officially termed the back way {ura-
guchi). K6b5 Daishi came up from
the Kishii or Wakayama side, — a
tradition whose details are com-
memorated in several monuments
which we successively pass on our
walk down. The scenery is pic-
turesque the whole way. It is neces-
sary to walk at least as far as the
hamlet of Shii/a, a distfince of over
4 ri from Koya-san, nor can jinri-
kishas be coionted on till reaching
the biisy little town of Kokawa.

[Most Japanese nowadays sacri-
fice seeing the Omotc-f;uchi way
to obtaining the convenience
of jinrikishas 1 rl sooner. This
they effect by following the
Kamuro road down as far as

380 lloute 37. — Tlirough Yamalo io Koya-san and Wakayama.

Kamiya, where they diverge 1.

to Kudoyama (Inn, Mori-kan)

on the river.]
Eloka"wa [Inn, * Kana-ya) lies
in the broad valley of the Kinokawa
(or Kii-gawa), and on the high road
to Wakayama. Eokawa-dera, the
great Buddhist temple of this place
—No. 3 of the Thirty-three Holy
Places — is an ancient and celebrat-
ed shrine, founded in A.D. 770.
As tisual in this land of wooden
buildings, iire has more than once
done its destraciive work, and the
present edifices date only from the
17th century. The principal gate-
way contains tine statues of the
M-o, colossal in size and excel-
lently preserved. A little further
on is a building, called Do nan San
no 0 Bo, curiously decorated with
open-work wood-carvings nailed on
to the panels of the front and
sides, and representing incidents
in the history of an image of
Kwannon shaped like a young boy,
which is declared by tradition to
have emerged miraculously from
the pond close by. Several hand-
some bronzes and a stone with the
impression of Buddha's feet nest
attract our attention. Passing
through the second gateway with
its images of the Shi-Tenno, we
enter a picturesque garden, contain-
ing some magnificent old camphor-
trees ; one, in particular, would take
seven men to encircle it with out-
stretched arms. The cheiTy-blos-
soms, too, are very tine. The Hondo
is a plain building about 102
ft. square, whose outer gallery
is all hung with modern inscribed
tablets. The images of the Twenty-
eight Followers of Kwannon, r. and
1. of the main altar, whose shrine is
never opened, are excellent ancient
works of art. On a terrace at the
back stand two brightly decorated
shrines dedicated to the Shinto
gods of Nyu and Nyaku-ichi, the ab-
original guardian deities of the
place. The temple is rich in mis-
eellaneous treasures and manu-
scripts, to be allowed to inspect

which, however, requires a special
introduction. An unusually large
Gybgi-ijaki jar (see p. 72) is the only
curiosity shown to all comers.

The traveller, who now emerges
from the mountains into the civili-
sation of the plain, will be struck
with the variety of quaint and
beautiful tiles at the corners of the
roofs of the houses. Some are shap-
ed like demons' heads, some like
shells, some like flowers, etc. The
whole way into Wakayama from
Kokawa lies down the smiling
valley of the Kinokawa, with its
screen of hills on either side.
Notice the hnes of haze or vege-
table wax-trees, from -whose berries
are made the candles for which this
province is famous. When Novem-
ber comes, the leaf of this tree al-
most vies in beauty with that of
the maple, so biiEiant are its hectic
hues. The river is crossed by a
long bridge joining Iirade on the
r. bank with its suburb of Funato
on the 1. bank, where the railway
station stands.

[Those interested in temples are
advised to go 1 ri out of their
way to view the nov,' nearly
deserted, but still stately, re-
mains of the monastery of
JS'egoro-ji, a branch of Koya-san
dedicated to Fudo, the monks
of which waged successful war
against Nobunaga in the 16th
century. It must have been
one of the most extensive reli-
gioias estabUshments in Japan,
and a perfect example of the
Shichi-do Garan. The various
temples and priests' houses
extended over two hillsides,
and the architecture of what
remains has a tranquil and im-
pressive aspect. The immense
park-like grounds are full of
lovely cheiTy-trees and pine-
trees, the former a brilliant
sight in April.]
"Wakayama {Inn, Fiiji-gen ; but

it is better to stay at the Ashibe-

ya at Waka-no-ura)

Wakamm a. Kimii-dera.

381

■ This large but quiet place, now the capi-
tal of the prefecture of Wakayama, was
fornicrly the castle-town of the Daimyos
of Kishu who were descended from the
eighth son of the 8h6gun leyasu, and en-
dowed with a tief of 55o,00UA:o/, « of rice.
The family held very exalted rank, being
one of the three distinguished by the title
of Of) San-ke (see p. 242). Its domain in-
cluded the whole province of Kishu, to-
gether with that of Ise as far north as
Matsuzaka.

possesses three great attractions, —
the castle of its former lords, the
temple of Kimii-dera, and the
scenery of Waka-no-ura. All three
lie in the same direction, — south
from the inn, — and can be done
in a single afternoon, though the
pleasanter plan is to devote a whole
day to loitering abont the beautifnl
neighbourhood of Kimii-dera and
"Waka-no-ura. A request for per-
mission to visit the castle should
be made through the innkeeper to
the prefectural authorities.

Wakayama has little trade, the
only manufacture worth mention
being a cotton material called men-
furanneru, which simulates the ap-
pearance of flannel, and is widely
used among the lower classes, not
only of Japan, but of China and
Korea. A certain amount of tim-
ber, floated down the Kinokawa, is
also exported.

The Castle of Wakayama is pro-
bably the most perfect extant speci-
men of that style of architecture
in Japan ; for though strictly nn-
cien regime, it dates only from about
1850, just before that regime had
begun to totter, and even the sword
and spear-racks in the lower storey
are still intact, the wood looldng
as new as if only put in place yes-
terday. The biulding, which is
three-storied, crowns a densely
wooded hill, and exhibits the pecu-
liarity that part of its fortifications
rise directly from the neighbouring
roadway, without being protected
by a moat. The panorama from
the top includes : — W., the mouth
of the Kinokawa and the sea ; S., in
the distance, the mountains of
Arida, the land of oranges ; E., other

nearer mountains of which Eyu-
mon-zan is the highest, the fertile
valley of the Kinokawa studded
with villages, the mountains about
Koya-san, then Kongo-san and the
other mountains of Yamato ; N.E.,
the Katsuragi range which shuts in
the valley at no great distance, the
lowest point being the Onoyama-
toge leading over to Sakai; and N.W.,
the promonotry of Kada which
almost seems to touch the island of
Awaji, to whose 1. the mountains of
Awa in Shikoku are visible in the
blue distance. At one's feet, on all
sides except the S., is the town.
On that side there is emptiness,
because the dwellings of the samu-
rai, v/hich formerly stood there,
have been demohshed and the sites
turned into fields, — an eloquent,
though mute, witness to the
political change that has transform-
ed modern Japanese society.

Kimii-dera lies 1 ri 25 cho S. of
Wakayama by a good jinrikisha
road. It is No. 2 of the Thirty-
three Holj'^ Places, belongs to the
Shingon sect, and is said to have
been founded in A.D. 770 by a
Chinese missionary named I-kwan,
though the present Hondo is only
some two and a half centuries old.

According to legend, the reason for
building the temple in this particular spot
was the discovery here, under a tree, of a
miraculous image of the Eleven-faced
Kwannon. now enshrined in a large reli-
quary behind the high altar. As this
image was far too sacred to be exposed to
public gaze, I-kwan carved another, of
the Thousand-lianded Kwannon, for the
adoration of the common herd. This
stands in a recess to the r. of the reli-
quary just mentioned. The chief fes-
tivals are celebrated on the 18th March
and 9th July.

Though Kimii-dera is doubtless
a fine temple finely situated, its
chief glory is its view, — not a very
extensive one, but absolutely lovely
and characteristically Japanese.
The spectator himself, from the
temple court or the priests' hand-
some reception rooms, stands just
at the height above the view that
an artist would choose ; and he

382 Eouf.edl. — Tnrough Yamato to Koya-san and Wakayama.

looks out W. towards the sea over
a scene recalling that from Noken-
do near Yokohama, or froui Tes-
Bhuji over Mio-no-Matsubara, — a de-
licious labyrinth of land and water,
of which the principal feature is
the extremely narrow strip of land,
more than a mile long, called

"Waka-no-ura.

A sandy peninsula, narrow and fan-
tastically over.ijTown with pines, enclos-
ing a little bay, and having islands or
llills near to it, is the Japanese beau ideal
of scenery, their taste being not for
savage, Alpine, overpowering grandeur,
but tor the esthetic, the soft, the well-pro-
portioned in form and line, — the civilis-
ed, jf one may so express it. Poets have
eung the beauty of this spot ever since
Japan has had a literature. The follow-
ing stanza of Akahita (see p. 70) is fami-
liar to every Japanese adult : —

Wak/i-no-ura ni

SUio michi-kureba
Kata TOO nami

Ashibe wo sashite.

Tazu naki-watai-u

that is, rendered literally,

" Oq the shore of Waka
When the tide comes flowing in,
There being no dry land.
Towards tUe reedy place
The storks fly across crying.''

The reeds of a thousand years ago are
commemorated chiefly in the name of
an excellent inn, the Ashibe-ya ; there
are now few, if any storks left, for the
law which protected them as sacred birds
lapsed when feudalism fell : and most of
the Tiine-treos on the peninsula were
hewn down when thoy, too, ceased to be
protected by immemorial custom. The
peasants took it into their heads that the
shade of the j)ine-trees was injurious to
the fields behind. Now, however, the
pame peasants would give nmch to have
the trees back again, as the salt sea spray,
which they warded off, blasts the crops.

While the traveller has been see-
ing Kimu-dera, his guide or jin-
rikisha-man should have been in-
structed to engage a boat, in which
— ^jinrikisha included — the party
will cross the shallow inlet to
Waka-no-ura, a distance of 18 cho,
to the hiU called t^eyama or Iiuose-
yama (comp. p. 372) at the root
of the little peninsula. Kimii-dera
looks grandly fortress-like as one
recedes from it. and the views are

charming all the way across. To
take the air in this manner is a
favourite pastime of the citizens of
Wakayama on summer evenings ;
and Waka-no-ura has inns and tea-
houses where the cravings of the
inner man may be satisfied. What
one chiefly goes out to see is a
gi'oup of little hiUs, whose curious
rocks and fantastic pine-trees (saga-
ri-matsu) form a natural landscape
garden, of which pietj' has availed
itself to erect a pagoda and several
shrines. The rock is called Kishu-
ishi by the Japanese, to whom its
beautiful slate-like appearance re-
commends it for use in the gardens
of the wealthy.

The names of the principal spots
visited at Waka-no-ura are Ashibe-
no-ura, Imose-yama, Shiogama,
Tamatsu-shima, Tengu-yama, the
hamlet of Dejima, and Gongen-
yama. It is woilh mounting Ten-
gu-yama for the sake of the view.
That from Gongen-yama is also
much admired. On the way back
to Wakayama by jinrildsha, one
passes the Shinto Temple of Akiha-
san, a branch of the shrine re-
ferred to on p. 240. The Waka-
yama Akiha-san is famous for
its maple-trees, and for a Buddhist
temple dedicated to the Five Hund-
red Kakan.

A walk or jinrikisha ride along the
coast S. from Wakayama, affording
lovely views, is that to Shiotsu on the
way to Kumano (see next Koute), or
to the Fude-svte-matsu near Fuji-
shiro on the way to Shiotsu.

Steamers leave Wakayama daily
for Osaka, calling in at Kada, where
there is a temple for which women
have a special devotion. The dis-
tance by road from Wakayama to
Kada is 3 ri 23 cho, whence to rejoin
the railway at Fuke is about 2;} ri
more. There is also constant steam
communication between Wakayama
and Tanabe, Kiishimoto, and other
little ports in the Kishu-Ise penin-
sula, ending up at Yokkaichi.

The railway into Sakai from
Wakayama first cuts N. across

Route 38. — Througli Kumano to he.

38a

conntry, coming out near the coast
at Fake. The most important sta-
tions are Eaizuka and Eishiicada.
These together form one large but
rather squalid town, soon after
passing which we reach the pros-
perous city of Sakai (see Ete. 34).
From this place it is only a 20 min.
run to Osaka.

ROUTE 38.

Theough Kumano to Isb.

■WEST COAST or KISHfj. TEMPLES OF
HONGU AND SHINGU. BAPIDS OF
THE KUMANO-GAWA AND KITA-
YAMA-GAWA. DOKO HATCHO. FALLS
OF NACHI. EAST COAST OF KISHtJ.
BAPIDS OP THE MIYAGAWA.

This rough, but delightfully pic-
turesque, route is recommended
only to those whom considerable
experience has inured to Japanese
country ways. It might well be
combined with Koutes 37 and
32. The finest part of it is
from Tanabe onwards, the interior
of Kishu and the E. coast being on
the whole more picturesque than
the W. coast. The best time lor
the trip is spring or late autumn,
as the climate of Kishu is ex-
ceptionally mild, owing chiefly to
the mountains of Yamato which
act as a screen to ward oif northern
blasts.

Kumano ia practically another name for
the province of Kii or kishu, the W. part
heing Kucld-Gumano, i. e. "front Kuma-
no," and the E. part Oku-Giimano, or " far
Kumauo." The two together include Ku-
ju-ku Ura, i. e. "nineiy-niue stretches of
shore." But the name Kumano is used
•with peculiar reference to the Three Holy
Places {Mi-Gumano or Kumano San-zan) of
that province, namely, Hongu, Shlugu,
and Nachi, the origin of which carries us

back past history proper into the legend-
ary age. Hongu, lit. "the orij;inal tem-
jjle," (or " palace ") is said to have heen
founded in the reign of Sujin Tenno (1st
century BC); Skingu, or " tbe new tem-
ple," in the reign of KeiUo 'Jenno (AD.
71 — 130), the former being some way up
the Kumano-gawa, the latter at the
mouth of the same river. Whether fear
of the destructive floods for vihich tlii.<j
river is notorious, had anything to do
with the location of the shrines iu these
paiticiilar spots— spots both of tbem
specially likely to tsufler, and therefore
standing in unusual need of supernatural
protection — is a matter for surmise. Be
this as it may, the aboriginal Shinto tute-
lary deities were early adopted by the
Buddhists as avatars of Indian gods,
under the title of Kumano Gnngen (conf. p.
48) ; and all through the Middle Ages the
threefold shrines of these Gongen were
among the most popular in Japan, and
among the most representative of the Ryo-
bu Shinto style. The Emperor Go-Shira-
kawa is said to have made no less than,
thirty-four pilgrimages to them, or at least
to Hongu. About the beginning of the
19th century, when the influence of the
Pure Shinto school had begun to make
itself strongly felt, many changes were
eflfected both in the buildings themselves
and in the lists of gods therein worship-
ped. Hongu and Shingu are now al-
together in Shinto hands. Nachi besides
its Shinto shrine, possesses a very famous
Buddhist one. A curious and inexplica-
ble circumstance connected with the
Kumano shrines is the .special reverence
manifested towards them by the people
of the extreme north of Japan, who sup-
ply a very large percentage of the pil-
grims, and are locally nicknamed Kwanio-
bei, that is, "eastern bumpkins."

Itinerary.

WAKAYAMAto:— Bi

Kimii-dera 1

Kuroe

Shiotsu 2

Minoshima 2

Yuasa 2

GOBO 5

Inami 3

Minabe 3

TANABE 2

Misu 2

Kurisu-gawa 2

Chikatsuyu 3

Nonaka

Ose 2

YUNOMINE 2

HONGU

Cho

—

5.V

—

384

Route 88. — Throiirjh Kumano to Ise.

Mi3^ai(byboat)\ 4 8 10^

Tado „ g 4 18 11
Back to I ^

Miyai „ S 4 18 11

SHINGtJ „ J " 5 — 12.1-

Miwazaki 1 25 4}

Hama-no-miya ... 2 12 5|

NACHI 1 32 U

Back to Hama-no-
miya 1 32 4i

KATSURA 23 U

Total 65 16 160

Thence by steamer to Kinomoto,
Nigishima, Owase, and Nagashima,
whence partly by land, partly by
river to Yamada, as shown later
on in the text. Some of the
distances are approximate, though
every possible care has been taken
to make them correct. A constant
cause of change and perplexity is
introduced by the construction of
new roads (shindo), not infrequently
followed by the disiTse of the same
owing to floods or to paucity of
traffic. The pedestrian will in any
case gain by adherence to the old
road, whenever a choice offers. In
some parts, new measurements of
the chief highways are in progress.

We leave Wakayama by what, as
a tribute to popular piety, is still
called the Kumano Kaido. JinriM-
shas are practicable — with an oc-
casional walk over a hill — all the
way to Tanabe and Misu. Passing
below Kimii-dera (see p. 381), and
Kuroe noted for its cheap lac-
quered trays and bowls, we skirt a
lovely shore to

Shiotsu, a village on the first of
those little landlocked bays —
secluded paradises — that gem the
coast of Kishil and of Shima. The
sea, the dainty little sandy beach,
and the view back over Waka-
yama and the valley of the Kino-
kawa and across to Awaji and
Awa in Shikoku, combine to form a
delicious pictui-e.

[Pedestrians can save time and
distance, and command still

finer \-iews, by diverging 1. over
the Pujishiro-saka before reach-
ing Shiotsu, between the ham-
lets of Hilcata and Shimizti.']

Before passing Minoshima, we
cross the shallow Arida-gawa near
its mouth, and follow iip its 1. bank
for some miles along an embank-
ment, between rows of vegetable
wax- trees (haze), the characteristic
tree of all this country-side. We
are now in the district of Arida,
notable as the greatest orange-pro-
ducing centre in Japan ; and as we
proceed, we find all the lower
slopes of the wide, sheltered valleys
covered A^ith orange gi-oves.

The enltivation of the orange, first in-
troduced into this district towards the
close of the 10th ceuturj' from Yatsushiro
iu Kyushu, succeeded .so admirably that,
before fifty years had elapsed, not Osaka
and Kyoto only, but Yedo looked to Arida
for their choicest sui)|)lies. Forty varie-
ties of the orange tribe are enumerated in
Japan, the best-kuowii being the mikun
proper, or mandaiin orange (of which the
Unshu variety is the most prized),:the h-qji,
the kunembo (a thick-skinned variety), the
tachibana and daidui or Seville orange,
and the diminutive kinkan or cumquat.
Most Japanese oranges are produced on
large umbrageous bushes, only the daidaC
growing on a real tree. The orange is
usually grafted on a citron or on a kara-
tachi (Citrus torifoliata) stock. It is the
finest fruit produced iu Japan, — and it
figures largely in the Japanese New Year
decorations. A lucky speculation in
oranges was the foundation of the fortune
of the eccentric 18th century millionaire,
Kinokuni-ya Bunzaemon.

Yuasa [Inn, Hiroki-ya) is a dull
town, noted for its manufacture of
soy. From here to Gobo there is a
choice of roads. The new road,
practicable for jiniikishas through-
out, passes through Yxira, 4 ri 14
cho, whence the distance is 3 ri 6
cho more, or 7 ri 20 cho (l^h m.) in
all ; but it is rarely taken, the old
5 n 11 cho road, given in owe Itin-
erary, being so much shorter, and
all of it, too, practicable for jin-
lildshas except the i^hifhigase-idge,
a steep hill 32 cho long. Spare
coolies can be hired at the bottom of
this hill to help to push the empty

West Coast and Interior of Kisliu.

585

jiniikislias up, and to shoulder the
inggage. The tM'o roads diverge
from each other 26 cho beyond
Yuasa. The top of the hill offers
little view.

[Before he reaches Gob5, a detour
of about 1 ri wiU take the
traveller interested in ancient
Japanese lore to the Temple of
Bojoji, a building part of which
dates fi-oui the 8th century.

Its name has become a household
word throughout the land, on ac-
count of the legend of the hapless
loves of the monk Anchin and the
maiden Kiyohlnie. Forbidden by
his vows as a priest fi'om making
good his vows as a lover, he fled to
this place, and hid beneath the
great temple bell. She, transformed
by the power of rage and disappoint-
ment into a huge dragon, ijurwued
him, and, lashing the bell with her
dragon tail, made it so fiery hot that
the poor monk was acorclied to death
inside. This was in the year 928.
The great bell of Dojoji forms a fa-
vourite subject of Jai^anese art : and
both the classical JVa theatre and the
ordinary Shibai stage have pieces
founded on the legend, decked out
of course with many fanciful ad-
ditions.]

Gobo {Ian, Kishi-riki). The road
follows the coast from here, gene-
rally on a cliif overlooking the sea,
and crosses several hills. The
finest view is that from the top of
the hill passed soon after leaving

Minabe {Inn, Mori-tsune), where
one catches the first glimpse of the
charming bay of Tanabe, with its
Meijane-iwa, — a rock resembling a
pair of spectacles, with holes for
the glasses, — its semi-sunken reefs,
and the long promontories of Seto-
zaki and Kanayama-zald. The as-
pect of all this coast is sub-tropical,
chiefly owing to the quantities
of palmettos and .soteisit. Immense
quantities of potatoes are also
grown.

The traveller will be struck all over
this Kumauo route with the absence of
hoisea. Scarcely a horse is to be seen
in the whole country-side. Bulls and
cows are used instead for agricultural
purposes, the Japanese bull being so much
milder a beaat than his European counter-

part that the use of oxen has not sug-
gested itself. The cows are free for hard
labour, because their milk does not form
an article of Japanese diet.

Tanabe {Inns, Gomei-ro, Kyo-
hachi) is much frequented by
pilgrims to the Three Shrines of
Kumano and to the Thirty-three
Places of Kwannon. The temple
of Soddji, in the neighbourhood,
possesses a number of works by
the celebrated painter Okyo and
his pupil Rosetsu. A pleasant ex-
cursion from Tanjibe by boat is
across the bay to the hot springs
of Yuzalci {Inn, Sakai-ya) on the
strand. Koshin-yama, above the
baths, affords a fine view.

Tanabe is the end of the first
division of this route, as we here
leave the coast, and turn inland to
cross mountain ranges and to shoot
the rapids of rivers. We also here,
or at Misu 2 ri further on, bid fare-
well for some tiuie to jinrikishas,
unless the new road to Kuiisu-gawa
should happen to be in exceptional-
ly good repair. In any case, the old
road is about half the distance of the
new, — 2 J ri from Misu to Kmisu-
gawa, instead of 5 ri. The walk is
steep but pretty, and near the sum-
mit, which is called Imori-toge, a
fine panorama opens out of numer-
ous ranges, with Tanabe Bay and
the sea beyond. The scar on the
side of Takao-zan dates from the
great floods of 1889.

Throughout Kishii and southern Ya-
mato, the inhabitants never tire of refer-
ring to these disastrous floods {Meiji ni-
j'l-ni-nen no suiiiaii), which were indeed a
national calamity second only, if second,
to the great tidal wave of 189G. Al-
ways liable to these visitations, Japan
seems to have drawn them down on
herself with increased violence by a
sudden zeal for the si^read of cultivation
in remote mountain distrii-ts, and by
consequent p;irtial deforestation. The
valley of the Totsu-gawa— called Kumano-
gawa lower down — suffered worst of all,
over 2,000 persons having been washed
away and incalculable destruction done
to property.

Kurisu-srawa (poor accommo-
dation) lies in a valley on the bank

386

Route 38. — Through Eumano k> Ise.

of a stream. Leaving ^t, "we climb
over the JUjo-toge and Osaka-foge, —
a maze of thickly wooded moun-
tains the whole way, peak alternat-
ing with rounded shoulder, — to

Chikatsuyu (Inn, Yamaguchi-
ya), similarly situated in a valley, —
that of the HeM-gawa, — and thence
on to

Nonaka (Inn Matsu-ya), which
stands high, a great cleft dividing
it from still loftier hills that rise
abruptly opposite. There are some
monumental cryptomerias at the
entrance to the village ; and on
leaving it, the traveller will notice
the first of a series of stockades and
outlooks, by which the peasants
endeavour to protect their little
patches of cultivation from the at-
tacks of wild boars.

Many other -wild animals roam at will
over this remote forest legion of Kishu
and southern Yamato, notably the wolf,
the monkey, the deer, and the nilcu, which
latter, to judge from the description given
of it, would seem to ho a kind of chamois.

Two hills — the Kohiro-ioge and
Bvju-tb(je — separate Nonaka from
Yunomine. The walk unfolds a
succession of delightful contrasts, —
the lovely glen of the Hiraigo-gawa,
with its wild profusion of cherry-
trees, azaleas, maples, camellias,
lagerstroemias (saru-suberi), ferns,
mosses, etc., offering bright hues for
every season of the year ; — next the
panorama from the breezy top of the
Buju-toge over a perfect wilderness
of densely wooded mountains and
deep ravines ; and then the descent
through the severe simplicity of a
forest of nothing but conifers,
where, after a time, one catches the
sound of rushing water, and sees,
far below, the Magari-kawa, aptly
so called from its many -nindings.
But the curious part of the matter
is that the Magari-kawa and the
Hiraigo-gawa form in reality but
one and tlie same valley, the upper
part of which is dowered with
botanical wealth, while the lower
appears almost stern in its sim-
plicity.

Yunomine (Inns, Ise-ya and se-
veral others) is the most comfort-
able village on the route, — far pre-
ferable to Hongu, 25 cho further
on, as a place to spend the night.
The slight odour of the sulphur
springs to which Y'^unomine (locally
pronounced Yunomune) owes its
fame, is perceptible immediately on
entering the village. The principal
spring gushes out in mid-village,
just above the river's edge, and the
women carry their vegetables to
cook in it. The original tempera-
ture of the spring used for the
public bath is 198° Fahrenheit.
Hard by is a little temple dedicated
to Yakushi Nyorai, whose large
image is cut out of stone encrusted
with sulphur. The people bring
teapots to have them encrusted in
like manner.

The local hero is Oguri Hnngwan (see
p. 81). Oq the way from Yunomine to
Hougii is a mound called Kuruma-zaka,
beneath which, on being restored to
health and strength, Oguri Hangwan is
said to have buried the barrow used by
Terute Hime to wheel him hither.

The best plan to pursue is to
leave one's luggage at Y'^unomine,
and stroll over thence to Hongu
to see the temples, returning to
Y'unomine to sleep. The Y'^uno-
mine innkeei>ers are accustomed to
make arrangements for boats down
the river, and will have one in
waiting for the traveller on the
following morning. AcheappubKc
boat (here called josen) starts from
Hongu for Shingu at a very uncer-
tain time in the forenoon, and
takes about G hrs. to perform the
journey, except in flood-time, when
the voyage is much quicker, but
dangerous. To take the public boat,
however, debars one from visiting
Doro Hatcho ; so every weU-advised
traveller mil engage a boat of his
own (kai-kiri). The price, in 1900,
was 7 yen for a boat with three
men to go down the rapids from
Hongu to Miyai, thence up the
Kitayama-gawa to Doro Hatcho,
and down to Shingu :— time 2 days.

Hongu. Rapids of the Kumano-gawa.

387

Hongu {Inn, Tama-ya) stands at
the junction of a streamlet called
the Otonashi-gawa with the broad
Kumano-gawa. Though now but
a poor village, it boasts a celebrated
Shinto shrine.

For wbat little is known of the early his-
tory of this place, see p. 38o. In the great
floods of 188'J the river rose 60 ft., and the
entire village was destroyed, the temple
buildings themselves, which stood close
to the water's edge, being mostly swept
away. Out of twelve, only four remained
available for restoration and repair ; and
notv.'ithstanding the immemorial sanctity
of their previous site, they were removed
to the neighbouring hill, where they now
occupy a commanding and perfectly safe
position. A stone monument on the ori-
ginal site, consisting of two small, cotfer-
shaped structures within an enclosure
commemorates the eight vanished temples
and their gods. The chief festival at
Hongu is celebrated on the 15th April,
smaller ones on the 1st and 15th of every
month. One of the peculiar rites is the
pounding of rice-cakes fmochi) by the pil-
grim bands, as an offering to the local
gods. For this purpo.se, gigantic pestles
and mortars are provided in all the inns.
Strange to say, Hougii, notwithstanding
its exceptional holiness and antiquity,
ranks officially but as a provincial temple
of the second class {Kokiihei chusha}. The
deities worshipped are (beginning at the
1.) : — in No. 1, Kumano Fusumi-no-Mikoto ;
in No. 2, Hayatama-no-Mikoto ; in No. 3,
Kumano Ketsu-miko ; in No. 4, Amaterasu
O-mi-kami (the Sun-Goddess).

Temples 1 and 2 are combined
together iinder a single roof, in what
is called the ni-sha-zukuri style. A
pectdiar appearance is produced by
the tawny-coloui-ed suji-bei (see p.
83) and the low stone wall, which
together form the outer temple
enclosure. Otherwise Hongu much
resembles Ise, though on a smaller
scale. Visitors are permitted to
enter the pebble-strewn court inside
the wall, but may not pass beyond
the tama-yaki, which is of wood
■with gilt copper ornaments to
conceal the nail-heads. The ends
of the rafters of the temples are
similarly adorned.

A flock of crows forms a prominent fea-
ture in the o-fuda, or sacred pictures, sold
at the three Kumano shrines, and also in
the architectural ornaments of many sub-
sidiary temples dedicated to the gods of

Kumano, for instauce, that situated in li-
gura, Tokyo. The reason is that these
deities are believed to employ the crow
as their messenger, wherefore also this
bird is never killed within their precincts.
There is a current belief to the eflect that
Koya-san is so precipitous that such
luxuries as bean-curd {tofu) cannot be
carried up to it, but that the priests place
coppers on the temple balustrade, with
which the crows fiy oft" to Kumano and
bring back bean-curd in return.

The boat trip down the BapMs of
the Kmnano-rjaica

This river rises in the mountains of
Yoshino. During its upper course it is
called the Totsugawa. Sometimes also it
is called the Otonasc-gawa or Otonashi-
gawa, properly the name of the tiny
affluent that comes in at Hongu.

is delightfid, excitement constantly
alternating with charming \iews of
chff, and azalea blossom, and
splendid timber. The whole dis-
tance from Hongu to Shingu i_s
called 9 ri 8 cho [ku-ri hat-cho,
not to be confounded with the
name of Doi-o Hatchb) ; but of course
this is considerably increased by
diverging up the Kitayama-gawa to
see the latter place. Specially cele-
brated is a spot on the 1. bank, about
1 hr. down from Hongu, called
Shimoku-zan, whither Japanese
painters often come to sketch the
perpendicular basaltic cHffs crown-
ed with fantastic j)iiies, — a scene
that lacks only some quaint pagoda
on the least accessible-looking crag
to make it the very embodiment of
the style of landscape which the
Far-Eastern artist most loves to
reproduce on screen and porcelain
plate and lacquer tray. To complete
the illusion, monkeys may some-
times be seen clinging to the over-
hanging branches of the trees.
Just above and about

Miyai, coal is worked in three
or four places, but is of poor quality.
Here is the junction of the Kuma-
no-gawa with its large aflauent, the
Kitayama-gawa, a sight recalling
that of the meeting of the Ehone
and Saone. "SMiile the Kitayama-
gawa is of crystalline clearness, the
Kumano-gawa has run thick and

388

Moule 38. — Through Kumano to he.

mmidy ever since tlio floods of
1889. For some little distance, tlie
two streams flow on side by side
withoiat mingling.

The ascent of the Kitayama-
gawa from Miyai involves towing
up another set of rapids varied by
occasional sailing ; for if there is
any wind at all, it is sure to serve
from time to time, owing to the
deep elbow-bends made by the
stream. Though progi'ess be slow
(the present writer took 7 hrs. from
Miyai to Tado, and with a fuller
river the journey would occupy
longer), the time is agreeably spent
drinking in the charms of the
scenery, and watching the skilfully
navigated rafts that carry timber to
the coast, or the fishermen who,
generally in bands of four on each
reach of the river, peer into the
water for trout, and when they see
any, cast hand-nets over them with
amazing rapidity. The names of
the hamlets on each bank on the
way up are : — Miyai r.. Shitaki 1.,
Kei r., Kuju r., Taketo r., Yuno-
kuchi r., Kogawa-guchi 1. where
an affluent comes in ; Shimazu r.,
Kizuro 1., Tamai-guchi r., and Tado
r. All ai"e poor. Many are re-
markable for being built tier above
tier up the face of the mountain,
with stone terraces to keej) what
little soU there is in place. It
seems wonderful that cultivation
can pay under such conditions, and
also that the children do not come
to an untimely end by falling into
the abyss below. At Kuju a little
waterfall will be noticed.

[This hamlet is the starting-point
of those who desire to climb
Tamnki-san (3 ri), a mountain
noted for its enormous crypto-
merias and for a temple dedi-
cated to the gods of Kumano,
which is considered the Oku-no-
in of Hongu. The summit
(3,750 ft.) commands a very
extensive view over a sea of
mountains.]
Kizuro and Tado being the only
hamlets on the Kitayama-gawa

possessing houses dignified with the
name of inns, one or other of them
should be selected for the night's
halt. The former is about 1 ri below
Doro Hatcho, the latter just above
it. If possible, the latter should be
pushed on to, as one thus gains the
advantage of seeing Doro Hatcho
in the strongly contrasting lights
of evening and morning.

Doro Hatcho is a gorge of the
Kitayama-gawa, stretching between
the hamlets of Tamai-guchi and
Tado. The name does not mean, as
might be supposed, " eight hiindred
yards of mud," but " eight hundred
yards of tranquil water," with ra-
pids below and rapids above ; and
in reahty the gorge is double that
length, — not 8 cho, but 16 cho. Deep
gTeen pellucid water, fairy vegeta-
tion,— especially in May and June
when the azaleas and rhododen-
di'ons burst into bloom from every
nook and cranny — dainty little
sandy beaches, coves, pinnacles,
caves, on either side white battle-
ments of rock of a tine-grained sili-
ceous sandstone, curiously jointed
and worked in together somewhat
like the teeth in a jaw or the pieces
of a pvizzle, and forming pillars and
overhanging stockades crowned
with pines and reflected in the li-
quid mirror below, — aU this com-
bines to form a most perfect
specimen of natural landscape gar-
dening on a grand scale. When
seen in the mists of early dawn or
by moonlight, it is the very image
of the haunts of the genii as pom:-
trayed by the artists of China and
Japan. Names are given to various
salient rocks, such as the Boat, the
Hat, the gods Ebisu and Daikoku,
etc. ; but they have no special ap-
propriateness, and there is little
use in taking a guide at Kizuro
or Tamai-guchi to point them out,
as the natives will probably sug-
gest. The scenery continues very
fine for several miles above Doro
Hatch6,_more especially at a place
called Oi, 5 ri higher up; but boats
cannot ascend further than Ko-

Doro Hatcho. Shingu.

889

matsu, whence it is an arduous
walk of 8| m.

[Doro Hatchd may also be reach-
ed from Atawa, a viU. 2 ri 25
cho N.E. of Shingu on the
coast, whence 6 ri to Kogawa-
fjuchi, where boats can be ob-
tained. From Atawa to Koga-
wa-guchi the road leads over
the Fuden-zaka, and through
the -villages of Nakadachi, Ni-
shino-hara, Kurusu, Kogurusu,
and Itaya. The whole distance
fi'om Shingu to Kogawa-guchi
by this road may be done in
jinrikisha.]
From Doro Hatcho back to Miyai
and thence to Shingu is a short
day's journey by boat, being aU
down stream. Eapids and pretty
scenery accompany one the whole
way, until suddenly there appears
ahead a sqiiare-topped, wooded
height, lower than the other hills.
This is where stood the now de-
molished Castle of Hhiniju, to whose
r. is seen a grove of tall cryptomeiias
marking the site of the temple of
the gods of Kumano. The Kuma-
no-gawa, like several other rivers
on this coast, ends in a somewhat
absurd fashion, there being no
mouth to it at aU except during the
summer floods, because the water
oozes out to sea through the sand.
Nevertheless the current is rapid to
the last ; and instead of the tide
affecting the river, it is the mud-
diness of the river that affects the
sea for some little distance.

Shingu {Inns, Abm-a-ya, Shimi-
zu-ya), which hves chiefly by the
trade in timber brought down the
river, has little to detain the travel-
ler. The site of the castle should
be visited for the sake of the line
view. The Shrines of Kumano
(commonly called Shingu Gongen)
were burnt down in 1883, and only
three out of the former twelve
shxines, \-iz. those sacred to the
gods Kumano Fusumi, Kumano
Hayatama, and letsu Miko, have
been rebuilt. Of the Shinto Temple
of Kami-TW-Jcura, dedicated to the

goblin (iengu) Takagami, there like-
wise remains little but the site ;
and the Grave of Shin no JofuJcu
will interest only the archajologist.
"What little there is to see at Shin-
gii can all be seen in 3 hrs.

At the temple of Kami-no- liura, which
is perched on the top of a high rock, the
male inhabitants of the town still cele-
brate an ancient and curious festival
( Taimatsu Mal.iui i) ou the 5th day of the
1st moon, old style. A large number,
young and old, some of them fathers with
childieii strapped to their backs, and all
with torches in their hands, run up the
steep, irregular flight of steps leading to
the temple site, and on reaching the top,
are shut up in a narrow enclosure, packed
as tight as they can hold, by another
band of holiday-makers outside. Suddenly
the gate is oxjened, and down they aU
rush helter-skelter, as fast as their legs
can carry them, still with the lighted
torches in their hands : and iu feudal
days, he who reached the bottom first
received a bag of rice as a reward from
the lord of the castle. It is averred that
accidents never happen, notwithstanding
the steepness of the steps, the flaming
torches, and the hurry and confusion.
Nevertheless, to obviate siich a possibility
and also to cheer on the riinners, their
male relatives line the wtaircase on either
side. — The hill above the temple site is
supposed to be the gobliu's playground.

Shin-no-Jofuku (the Chinese pronuncia-
tion of his name is Ch'in llsu Fu), having
been sent by the Emperor Shi Huang Ti
(B.C. •221-209) to search for the elixir of
life, is said to have discovered Elysium
{H6i-ai-zan], alias Japan, which he colo-
nised with three thousand beautiful young
men and maidens. Such, according to a
legend widely credited iu China, was the
origin of the Japanese nation. The
present stone dates only from the middle
of the 17th century. Some small mounds
in the neighbourhood are believed to be
the tombs of his followers.

In all this part of Japan both
sexes smoke tobacco rolled up in
camellia leaves, the effect produced
being that of the stump end of a
green cheroot. Bundles of leaves
for this purpose are sold in the
Shingu shops for an infinitesimal
sum.

The birth])lace of the celebrated
Benkei (p. 71) was at the Funnda
ferry just above Shingu, which is
passed 1. on quitting the town.

The road from Shingu to Nachi,
all of which, except the last ri, is

390

Route 38. — Through Kumano to Ise.

practicable for jinrildshas, offers a
succession of varied views. Spe-
cially delightful are those of the
Bays of Miwazaki and Ugui.

At Miwazaki and all along the coast to
the E., where bonito-fishing is one of the
sources of livelihood, the boats will
be seen painted in bright colours, with
patterns of flowers and the auspicious
character ^, signifying "long life."
This is done in order to attract that fish,
which is believed to be highly esthetic
and fastidious in its tastes. — It is the
beach between Shingu and Nachi that
provides the checker-players of Japan
with their best yu-ishi, — water-worn peb-
bles of slate quartzite which serve as
"men."

At Hama-no-miya the road tiirns
inland. Jinrildshas can be left to
await the traveller's return at the
hamlet of Iseki, as

Nachi may be " done " in a few
hoins, though it well deserves at
least a day. The approach is by a
large torii, and several flights of
stone steps hned with magnificent
cryptomerias. The height of the
place, the luxuriant vegetation,
and the nearness to so much run-
ning water, make Nachi a dehght-
ful summer retreat. It has a
number of inns.

Remark that, in its wider acceptation,
yachi includes Iseki and several other
hamlets, as far as Hama-no-miya on the
sea-shore. We use the name in its nar-
rower sense, to designate the village in
the hills which is famed for its temples
and great waterfall.

The very popular Buddhist
Shrine of Kachi, No. 1 of the Thirty-
three Places Sacred to Kwannon,
dates — at least the present building
dates — from the year 1590. It is fill-
ed with ex-votos and miscellaneous
adornments, its columns are pasted
over with pilgiims' cards, and priests
sit at little tables to sell staves
and charms of more than usual
variety. A gong {wani-guchi) pre-
sented by Hideyoshi is among its
chief treasures. The Temple of
Kximano, which stands close by, is
in pure Shinto style. It was re-
built early in the present reign, and
is dedicated to Kumano Fusumi,

Izanagi, Izanami, Kuni-toko-tachi,
Ama-terasu, and a nrmiber of lesser
divinities. But the great attrac-
tion of Nachi lies in its Waterfalls,
one of which is generally account-
ed the highest in Japan, though as
to the exact height there is wide
divergence of opinion. Captain St.
John, K.N., gives the lowest esti-
mate,— 275 ft. Local vanity goes
so far as to claim 840 ft. !

Traditon says that the Buddhist saint,
Mongaku Shonin (see p. 76) remained
three weeks in the water just below the
basin of this fall, fasting and doing pen-
ance.

ITie Great, or First Fall (lehi no
Taki), which is close to the viU., is
easily accessible. An exploration
of the lesser, but romantically
situated. Second and Third Falls
(Ni no Taki and San no Taki),
higher up the course of the same-
stream, involves some scrambling
over the slippery rocks that serve
as natural stepping-stones. Rare
ferns and mosses luxuriate on every
side. Beyond this, higher up the
mountain again, are numerous
smaller cascades. On the opposite
side of the Nachi valley, another
stream forms a fall named the-
In-yo no Taki, or " Sexual Fall," on
account of a large rock in the
middle which is thought to resem-
ble a phallus.

Very little is known as to the origin of
phallic worship in .Japan, although this
primitive cult appears to have been near-
ly universal in the rural districts till
within quite recent times, when it fell
suddenly into disfavour through con-
tact with European ideas. Only one point
can positively be asserted, namely, that
its connection is not with Buddhism, but
with Shinto. The emblems reverenced
are sometimes natural rocks, as here at
Nachi, at Nezu Daimyojin in the district
of Ogata iu Shinshu, and at Inujima in
Bizen. More often they are artificial.

Katsura (Inns, Nagisa-ya, Mo-
men-ya) possesses an idea] little har-
bour, perfectly landlocked owing to
an island at its mouth, and so deep
that steamers can anchor close to
the shore. The piincipal local in-
dustry is fishing, though the whal-

East Coast of Kishu.

391

ing is no longer what it was in
the " good old days " (see p. 255).
The best plan — granting that the
traveller is blessed with an even
temper, which wall stand the possi-
ble and seemingly unreasonable
lengthening out of a single day's
voyage into three or four — is to
take one of the coasting steamers
that touch here almost daily.

Those bound W. towards Osaka are
called 7;r)bo)/-6M/ic, or " up-boats. " f or the
reason that Osaka is near Kyoto, the old
capital ; those bound N. E. to Ise and
Yokkaichi are called kudari-tmnc, or
"down-boats."

He can thus see most advan-
tageoiisly what is best in Kishu, —
its delightful coast scenery, — and
will be spared dreadful roads and
an almost endless amoxmt of climb-
ing.

[It is only as far as Kinomoto,
where also steamers can be
picked up, that the land jour-
ney can be done with any com-
fort. The itinerary is as fol-
lows : —

Xatsura to : — Bi Cho M.

Shingu 4 24 llj

Narukawa ferry 6 i

Atawa 2 19 6^

Kinomoto 3 17 8^-

Total 10 30 26*

All this is level and passable
for jinriMshas, much of it lying
through a pleasant pine-wood
that skirts the sea-shore. From
Kinomoto it is possible to reach
Owase in one day (Hi ri,
through densely wooded valleys
and mountains, with magnifi-
cent views from the Yanagawa-
toge), and Nagashima (7 ri of
alternate inland and sea road)
in another. But one must be
a very sturdy pedestrian and
be favoured with fine weather,
the climb over the Ohiki-zaka,
— ^lit. " the Hill of Long-Drawn-
Outness " — and well does it
deserve the name, — the hills

quaintly called Sonetaro and
Sonejird, the Yaki-yama-toge,
the Magose-zaka, the Hajikami-
zaka, and other rough passes
being most fatiguing.]

Chief Places on the Coast.

Kinomoto [Inn, Morimoto) has
only an open roadstead. The chffs
here are remarkably honeycombed,
— blistered, as it were. Those on
the right-hand side of the town
(looldng from the sea) are called
Oni-ga-jo, or the Demons' Castle.

This name they derive from the belief
that they were the abode of demons, till
the latter were subdued bj' Tamura Marc
early in the 9th century. — The syllable
hi, one meaning of which, in the Japanese
pronunciation of the Chinese characters,
is "demon" ^, recurs in many of the
place-names about here. Thus we have
.K'/nomoto, Ni,(7i8hima, Mifci'sato, Yaki;
and local legend has fabricated something
appropriate to lit each. In reality the ki
means "tree" in most of these names, —
Mikiznio, for instance, signifying "the
village of three trees," not "the village of
three demons."

TTie high clifE on the 1. of the
town, beneath which the creatress
Izanami is said to lie buried, is
called Hana no Iwaya.

A straw rope (called shime-nawa) ia
stretched from the summit of this clifif to
the trunk of a pine-tree below. Ihis is
renewed every year in February and
October with great festivities, when
enormous quantities of flowers are oflFered
up, whence the name of the rock. At
another festival, in July, a circular pile of
firewood is built up to a height of 20 or 25
ft., and the youths of tbe village try their
skill in throwing a lighted torch to the
top, so as to kindle the pile. This is
apparently done in honour of Kagutsuchi,
the God of Fire or of Summer Heat, who
is believed to lie buried under a small
rock opposite, called Oji no Iwaya, or the
Prince's Cavern.

Nigishima (Inn, Jiibei) is a
completely landlocked, pretty little
harbour with deep anchorage. The
hills, which rise round it in a circle,
are cultivated in terraces to a consid-
erable height.

Sone and Mikizato aLso have
landlocked bays. The camphor-tree

392

Route 38. — Through Kumano to Ise.

and vegetable wax-tree grow wild
on the steep hills of this part of the
coast, where cultivation can only
be carried on in terraces supported
by retaining walls. At

Owase (hm, Atarashi-ya), the
hills retire to a little distance, like
wings on either side of the spacious
bay. Owase is a populous junk-
port, and the most flourishing place
on all this coast.

Nagashima (Inn, Hama-no-Ara-
shi-ya) has but a poor harbour. The
entrance, however, is very pretty,
with the broken line of Oshima to
the r., like a hand half-sunk beneath
the water and only the finger-tips
appearing. The inhabitants devote
themselves to catching bonitos,
which they dry and salt for export.
— The aspect of the coast is broken
and picturesque all the way on
hence to the province of Shima,
and round the latter towards Ise ;
but the densely wooded hills
gradually sink in height.

The interior being again practic-
able from Nagashiuia onwards, we
here leave the steamer, and strike
across country in a N.E. direction.

Itinerary.

Nagashima to : — Bi Cho M.

Uchi-Mayumi 3 8 7|

Nojiri 4 17 11

FunaM 20 1\

Total 8 9 20

First we cross the rather steep
Nizaka-to(je, which a fine road
makes passable for jiniikishas.
From points on the ascent, lovely
vignettes are obtained of mountains
all the way fi-om Odai-ga-bara to
the sea, and of the much indented
coast as far as Miwazald. The
town and bay of Nagashima lie just
below, with the inlet called Kata-
kami-no-ike, and the gravelly river-
bed of the Sando-gawa. At the top
of this pass the traveller leaves the
province of Kishu,

KishSi, originally Ki-no-lcuni, the
"Country of Trees,'" is the ancient seat of
the woi'ship of Susa-no-o and bis son Iso-
takerii. The former is naif! to have
brnunht the seeds of trees from Korea,
and to have planted Japan with them ;
and as this region was celebrated for its
timber, the seat of his worship was natur-
ally established here.

and enters the province of Ise. The
descent on the other side is gradual
and the scenery pleasing, being
spoilt only by partiid deforestation.
The stream followed is an affluent
of the Miyagawa, called Ouchi-
yama-gawa. The best halting-
place is the vill. of Saki [Inn,
KozaM-ya), a short way beyond
Mayumi.

Nojiri (Inns, Hashimoto-ya, Ni-
shimura-ya) is one of those places
which, though scarcely known to
the outer world, is much frequent-
ed by pious pilgiims, as it pos-
sesses a set of Shinto temples called
Takihara Gu, which, notv^ithstand-
ing their small size, yield but little
in sanctity to those of Yamada
(commonly known as the shrines
of Ise) themselves. They stand
in a solemn and impressive grove
of cryptomeria and chamfecypaiis.
As at Yamada, so here also there
are two temple sites, which are
built on alternately once in every
twenty years.

The raisoii d'etre of this holy place is a
tradition to the effect that the Sun-God-
dess rested here for some time on the way
to Yamada (Uji), where she finally took
up her permanent abude. Hence Nojiri
is called O Tabi-shn, that is, "the August
Wayside Place," or Ko Daijingu no Bekku,
" the Supreme Goddess's Separate Palace."

From Nojiri to Funaki (no inns),
is a short walk along the tlat. The
rest of the way (some 12 ri) to
Y^imada being siiuilarly flat, a
pleasanter alternative than going
by jini-ikishas is to take boat at
Funaki down the Miyar/awa, just
above whose mouth Yamada is
situated. The expedition occupies
from 5 to 9 hrs., according to the
state of the river. It is advisable
to get the people of the inn at

Route 39. — Minor Itineraries in Kishu.

393

Nojiri to arrange for the boat over-
night.

Some 8 ri up the Miyagawa from Funa-
kl, may be seen some of the finest ci-j'p-
tomerias in Japan. They grow in a glen
appropriately namerl 0-svgi-dn.ni, or the
Vale of the Great Cryptomeiias. It is
also noted for an abundance of pheasants.

The whole course of the LTiyagawa
is pretty, especially during the
azalea sea'^on, and there are several
rapids. The river is fiiil of small
trout [m). Miich timber is floated
down it, both in the shape of rafts
and as single trunks, each of which
is marked so as to enable its owner-
ship to be ascertained on reaching
destination. Many of course ground
on the way, and have to be started
off again. The authorities discour-
age, without peremptorily forbid-
ding, this iwactice, which contri-
butes its quota to the destruction of
bridges and embankments. From
the landing-place to

Yamada (see p. 306) is a distance
of 28 cho. Jinrikisha or train may
be availed of.

ROUTE 39.

Minor Itineeaeies ik Kishu.

I. From Tanabe to f^hingii by the
coast. (This _road is popularly
known as the 0-hechi, while the in-
land road from Tanabe to Hongu
and thence across country to
Nachi is the Kaka-hecM.)

TANABE to :— Ri Cho M.

Asso 1 26 4i

Tonda 1 12 sj

Ago 3 9 8

Susami 1 18 3f

Esumi 4 32 12

Wabul<a 1 26 4^

Tanami 2 9 5J

Kushimoto 1 24 4

Koza 1 3 2|

Shimozato 4 18 11

Temma 1 31 4J

Miwazaki 2 20 Q\

SHINGU 1 25 4

Total 31 19 77

There are said to be no less than
forty-eight passes ( Shi-ju-has-saka)
on the first h.alf of the way, so that
almost all of this has to be walked,
except where one can get a lift
from a boat or coasting steamer,
which latter calls daily at all the
larger places. But though the coun-
try is rough in every sense of the
word, it is generally picturesque,
except where spoilt by deforesta-
tion, and the winter climate so mild
that snow rarely falls more than
once a year, and ice is seldom seen.

The first part of the road is inland
as far as Esumi, where it comes
out on the sea. Thence on to
Kushimoto, the path alternates be-
tween short steej) inland ascents
and naiTow tracks along the shores
of bays. From Kushimoto on-
wards, jinriliishas may be availed
of. There is fair accommodation
at Tanabe, Ago, Susami, Esumi,
Kushimoto, Koza, and Shimozato.
The temples of 2iurijd-ji and Jbjvji
at Kushimoto have fine fusuma
painted by Okyo and his pupil
Rosetsu.

II. From Hongu to Nachi.

HONGU to :— Bi Cho M.

Ukegawa ^ 25 1|

Koguchi (Oyama) ) ^ ^i

Irogawa ) *

NACHI 2 25 6J

Total 7 14 18

These distances are given as local-
ly (perhaps inaccurately) stated.
The road, much traversed by pil-
giims, lies over the passes called,
from their height, by the quaint
names of Ko-gumo-tori and 0-gumo-
iori, that is, literally, the Lesser

394

Route 40. — Lab'- Jhva.

Cilond-Taker and the Greater
Cloud-Taker.

III. Byujin, near the borders of
Yamato, famed for its hot springs.
The way thither from Wakayama
lies through the Tillages of Todoroki
and Shimizu, the total distance being
about 15 ri over the mountains.
Ryujin offers excellent accommoda-
tion, the best of its numerous inns
being the Kami Goten.

ROUTE 40.

Lake Biwa.

1. general, infoemation : lake
btwa canal. 2. kyoto to otsxj.
mhdeka. seta bkidge. ishi-
yama-deea. 3. hikonb. naga-

HAMA. GHIKXjBU-SHIMA.

1. — Geneeal Infoemation.

I Glimpses of this beautiful lake,
whose southern and eastern shores
are classic ground, can be obtained
from the carriage windows by those
travelling on the Tokaido Eailway
between the stations of Maibara
and Baba ; but they are glimpses
only. To explore the Lake Biwa
district thoroughly, the proper
plan is — taking Kyoto as the start-
ing-point— to go to Otsu either by
rail or jinrikisha, or else to go over .
Hiei-zan, as explained on p. 354, to
do the soiithern end of the lake
from Otsu as a centre, and then
to take one of the little steam-
ers which ply daily between
Otsu, Hikone, and Nagahama on
the E. shore ; then back to Otsu
and along the W. shore by steamer
of another line to Katata, Katsuno,
etc., ending up at Shiotsu at the
N. extremity (compare beginning
of Route 41). This latter trip from
Otsu to Shiotsu — the longest on the
lake — occupies 5^ hrs.

The Lake of Omi, geuerally called Lake
Biwa (Biwa-ko in .Japanese I, on account of
a fancied resemblance between its shape
and that of the native guitar, measures
some 3(3 m. in length by 12 m. in
width. Its area is approximately equal
to that of the Lake of Geneva. Dr.
Rein gives its height at about 100
metres (33! ft.) above the level of the
sea ; and its greatest depth is said to
be the s;ime, but in most places is miich
less. From Katata tow;irds Seta it be-
comes very narrow, while the northern
part is oval in shape. On the W. side the
mountain ranges of Hiei-zan and Hlra-
yama descend nearly to the shore, while
on the E. a wide plain extends towards
the boundary of ^lino. There are a few
small islands in the lake, of which Chiku-
bu-shima near the N. end is the most
celebrated. According to a legend long
firmly credited Lake Biwa owed its exis-
tence to a great eavthouake in the year '286
B.C , while Mount Fuji rose out of the
plains of Suruga at the same moment.
Constant refereuce is made in Japanese
poetry and art to the "Eight Beauties of
Omi iOvii Hak-7cei], the idea of which
was derived, like most other .Japanese
things, from China, where there are or
were eight beauties at a place called
Siao-Siaug. The Eight Beauties of Omi
are ; the Autuum Moon seen from Ishi-
yama, the Evening Snow on Hirayama,
the Sunset Glow at Seta, the Evening
Bell of Miidera, the Boats sailing back
from Yabase, a Bright Sky with a Breeze
at Awazu, Kain by Night at Karasaki,
and the Wild-geese alighting at Katata.
As usual, convention enters largely into
this Japanese choice of specially lovely
scenes ; but all foreigners will admit
the great general beauty of the southern
portion of the lake in which most of
them lie. Fish are taken in Lirge quan-
tities, and the curious arrow-shaped
fish-traps {c/t) lining the shore will be
among the first objects to attract atten-
tion. The fish are driven into the inner
corners of the hollow barb, and being
once in cannot get out again.

A new and useful feature is the Lake
Biwa Canal, whic^h, with the Kamogavja
Canal, the Kamogawa itself, and the
Yodogawa has brought Lake Biwa into
navigable communication with Osalca
Bay. It was opened to traffic in 1890,
and supplies water-power to mills and
factories in Kj'Oto. The main canal
is 6 J m. in Ungth, and in parts of
its course runs through tunnels. The
total fall is utili.sed for trafhc by an
incline } m. in length, along which the
boats, placed in wheeled cradles, are
drawn by an electric motor stationed at
the foot of the incline. At Ke-age, at tho
top of the incline, the water of the
canal divides, one part flowing in a
branch canal, 5j m. long, which runs

TJie Canal. Kyoto lo Otsu.

395

north of Kyoto aud is available only for
irrigation and water-power. The other
part is conveyed in pipes to the foot of
the incline, where, before again forming
a navigable canal, it serves to give the
power needed to work the electric
motor which, by means of a wire cable,
rnns the boats up and down the incline.
From the foot of the incline t)jere is
another stretch of open canal, with a
regulating lock between it aud the old
canal leading to Fushimi. But this old
canal being able to pass onlj^ boats of
email draught, is of little use ; and a new
one has been made to Sumizome at
Fushimi. This, the Kamogawa Canal
already mentioned, has eight locks and
one canal incline, and carries heavy
cargo and passenger boats. A curious
personal item in connection with the
matter is the fact that the design of such
a water-way, which should also be suited
for the transi^ort of men and merchan-
dise, was made the subject of the
graduation essay for the diploma of the
College of Engineering in Tokyo by a
student who then became the engineer
entrusted with the execution of the work.
His name is Tanabe Sakuro. When en-
gaged on the work, he lost the use of the
fingers of his right hand ; and all the
writings and drawings for his essay, were
done with the left hand.

The natural drainage of the lake is by
a river flowing out of its S, end, which
bears in succession the names of Seta-
gawa, Ujigawa, and Yodogawa, but it is
unfortunately not navigable in its uiDper
course. After passing circuitously down
near Fushimi, where it receives the waters
of the canal, it falls into the sea at Osaka,

2. Fkom Kyoto to Otsu. Otsu

AND NeIGHBOUEHOOD.

There are three ways from Kyoto
to Otsu, namely : —

I. By Canal from Ke-age in
about 2 hrs. to Mio-ga-saki below
Miidera. A party should engage
a private boat. Three tunnels of
respectively 8 cho, 2 chd, and 24 clio
are passed through, the rest of the
way being in the open. This is
more often availed of in the con-
trary direction.

n. By the Tokaido Bailway in
about % hr. The Otsu station,
called Baba, stands some way out
of the town. For this reason, and
also on account of the excellence of
the highway, which is part of the
historic Tokaido, and still retains

some of the bustle and picturesque-
ness of former days, many prefer

m. To do the distance by jin-
rikisha, 6|- mUes. One may also
thus advantageously combine a visit
to the Kinkozan Potteries at Awata
on the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which
are extensive and most interesting,
the visitor being shown the whole
process, from the kneading of the
clay to the painting in gold and
colours and the firing of the com-
pleted pieces. Leaving Awata, we
pass 1. the Lake Blwa Canal, just
at the spot (Ke-age) where the
portage by rail takes place, and see
it again at intervals. After ascend-
ing a gentle rise called Hino-oka-
toge, we next see r. the former
Execution Groimd (Shloki-ha), now
turned into a rice-field, and then 1.
the Tumulus of Tenji Tenno, a
Mikado of the 7th century. It is a
mound overgi'own with pine-trees,
like all the hillsides hereaboiats.
The vill. of Yamashina, which
stands on the boundary between
the provinces of Yamashiro and
Omi, is soon reached, and after it
the villages of Oboake and Otani,
where the highv/ay and the rail-
way run side by side. The gentle
ascent next climbed is called Osaka
(properly Au saka, "the Ilill of
Meeting," of course having nothing
whatever to do with the city of
Osaka).

On the top formerly stood a barrier, or
octroi, constantly referred to in Japanese
poetry, and thus described by Semi-Maro.
one of the bards of the Hyaku-nin Isshu.
or "Century of I'oets," in a stanza which
every Japanese knows by heart :

The stranger here from distant lands.

The friend his home-bound friend may
greet ;

For on this hill the barrier stands.

The gate where all must part and meet."-

Just over the top of the hiU
stands a tiny shrine to Semi-Maro.

* Kore ya kono

Vuku mo kaeru ma
M'akarete wa
8hiru mo shiranu rw,
Au aaka no seki.

396

Route 40. — Lake Biwa.

Lake Biwa then conies in view,
and a minute later we are in

Otsu {J Mel, Minarai-tei, semi-
foreign), a fiourisliing town, capital
of the province of Omi and of the
prefecture of Shiga, built on the
S. shore of the lake.

On a hill close to the town stands
the famous Buddhist temple of

Miidera, No. 14 of the Thirty-
three Places sacred to Kwannon
(see p. 388),

This temple was foumled in AD. C75
by tbe Emperor Tenji, and rebuilt in
maf^nificeut style in the following cen-
tury. The present structure, which dates
only from 1G90, is poor. The granite
obelisk is modern, having been erect-
ed to the memory of the soldiers from
this prefecture who fell figliting on the
loyalist side against the Satsuma rebels.

The view is entrancing, especial-
ly from the obelisk. On the spec-
tator's extreme 1. is Hiei-zan, then
Hirayama ; next, in faint outline,
the island of Chikubu-shima near
the N. end of the lake, with the
high land of Echizen behind ;
straight ahead are other mountains
not specially notable, excepting
pointed Chomeiji-yama, and Mi-
kami-ya7na (Mukade-yama) shaped
like FiTJi in miniature. To the
extreme r. is Tanakami-zan. At
the spectator's feet lie the lake
and the town of Otsu, with the
Canal running straight towards
him.

In the pretty wood below Mii-
dera, on the N. side, hangs a cele-
brated bell.

Yoshitsune's retainer, Benkei, is said to
have stolen tliis bell and carried it to the
top of Hifi-zan, where he amused him-
self by beating it all night. The priests in
despair besought him to return it which
he promised to do on condition of their
making him as much bean-soup as ho
could eat. This they did in an iron
boiler measuring ."j ft. across. Accord-
ing to another legend the bell was stolen
and carried off to Hiei-zan in .A.D. 1318 by
the priesis of that monastery. The only
Bound thej- could get out of it was some-
thing that resembled the Japanese for " I
v?ant to return to Miidera." So in a rage
they threw it down from the top of the

mountain. These legends seem to have
been suggested by a desire to account
for the scratches on the bell.

Not qiaite IJ ri N. of Otsu, along
the W. shore of the lake by a level
jinriMsha road, is

Karasaki, famed all over Japan
for its giant pine-tree, which is
one of the most curious trees in
the world, and perhaps the very
largest of its species — not in height,
but in extent. Its dimensions are
stated as follows, but some seem
exaggerated :

Height, over 90 ft.

Circumference of trunk,

over 37 „

Length of branches from

E. to W 240 „

Length of branches from N.

toS 288 „

Number of branches, over. . . 380

Most of the branches spread
downwards and otitwards fan-like
towards the ground, being in most
places so low that one has to crouch
in order to pass vinder them, and
are supported by a whole scaffold-
ing of wooden legs and stone
ctTshions. The holes in the trimk
are carefully stopped with plaster,
and the top of the tree has a little
roof over it to ward off the rain
from a spot siipposed to be deli-
cate. In front of tliis tree, for
which immemorial age has gained
the reputation of sanctitj^ stands
a trumpery little Shinto shrine
called Karasaki Jinja.

Those having time to spare,
should continiie on 20 fho further
along this road to Sakamoto
{Inn, Take-ya), just beyond which,
on the slope of Hiei-zan, they will
find the Shinto Temple of Sanno al-
ready referred to on p. 355.

The beiit expedition on the
opposite or S. E. side of Otsu is
to the long bridge of Seta and the
temple of Ishiyama-dera, — a pleas-
ant jinrikisha ride. After leaving
Otsu, one passes through Zeze, A

—A

Seta Bridge. Ishiyama-dera.

307

Japanese prefer the Sakamoto-ya
inn at Zeze to any of those at
Otsu). Observe r. the barn-like
temple of Empuku-in, with qiiaiut
images — some painted, some un-
painted — of the Five Hundred
Eakan, seated on shelves placed
round three sides of the hall. On
leaving Zeze, the road leads over a
sort of common called Awazu no
Hara. Here the cultivated plain to
the r., the avenue of pine-trees
lining (he road, the bine lake to the
1., and the hills encircling the hori-
zon,— some brilliantly green with
pine-trees, some bare and white,
some blue in the distance, with
broad spaces between, and the rone
of Mukade-yama ahead, — this tout
ensemble forms an ideal picture of
tranquil and varied loveliness. Two
cho past the vill. of Torifjawa, stands
the celebrated

Long Bridg-e of Seta [Seta no
Kaga-hashi), spanning the waters of
the lake at the picturesque spot
where it narrows to form the Seta-
gawa, so called from the vill. of
Seta on the opposite bank. A bridge
had existed at this spot from the
earliest times. The present striic-
ture was restored in 1894. Properly
speaking, the biidge is two bridges,
there being an island in mid-stream,
on which they meet. The first
bridge (Ko-hashi) is 215 Japanese
ft. long, the second ( O-hashi) 575 ft.
A tiny Shinto shrine on the op-
posite bank of the river, to the r., is
dedicated to the hero Tawara Toda
Hidesato, who slew the giant centi-
pede from which Mukade-yama
takes its name. (See the story
entitled 3Iy Lord Bag 0' Eire in the
Japanese Fairy Tale Series.)

Eeturning to the vill. of Torigawa,
we follow for a short distance down
the r. bank of the Setagawa to

Ishiyama-dera. In the vill.
just before reaching the temple, are
numerous tea-houses where lunch
may conveniently be taken.

This famous monastery, No. li! of the
Thiity-thrte Holy Plat^es, was fonnded in

A D. 749 by the monk Byoben Sojo, in
obedience to a command of the Emperor
Shomu. Having been dtstroyed by fire in
1078, it was rebuilt a centnry later by
Yoiitomo. The piescnt main temple was
built by Yodo-Gimi, the widow of Hide-
yoshi, towards the end of the IGtli cen-
tmy. The name lahi-yamn-dera, lit. " the
temple of the stony mouutnin," is derived
from some large black rocks of fantastic
shaxje, which crop up in the middlo of
the grounds, and have been utilised by
the priests for purposes of landscape
gardening.

The temple grounds occupy the
lower part of a thickly wooded hill
on the r. bank of the river, and
extend almost down to the water's
edge. Passing along an avenue of
maple-trees and ascending a flight
of steps, the visitor reaches the
platform where stand the already
mentioned black rocks, above which
again is the main temple, dedicated
toKwannon. The building, which is
paiily supported on piles, is dingy
within, — the altar so dark that the
image of Kwannon can scarcely
be distinguished. It is IG ft.
high, and attributed to Eyoben.
In its interior is concealed the
real object of worship, a small
image 6 inches in height, once
owned by the famoias Prince Sho-
toku Taishi. On pillars in front
of the altar hang praying-wheels
and a fortune-box (o mikiiji-bako),
the latter being a cylinder con-
taining little brass chopsticks
marked with notches, — one, two,
three, and so on up to twelve. The
anxioTis enquirer shakes one of
these out of a small hole at one end
of the cylinder, observes the num-
ber of notches on it, and then reads
off, from a board hanging higher
up, a verse telling what may be
calletl his fortune, but is in many
cases rather a short homily address-
ed to his characteristic defect. The
paper labels that will be noticed
on the pillars are stuck there by
pilgiims, and contain their name,
address, and date of pilgrimage,
— are, in fact, a sort of visiting
card. The small image near the
entriince is Bishamon. A little

398

Boute 40. — Lake Biioa.

room to the r., known as the Genji
7io Ma, is said to have been occupi-
ed by Murasaki Shikibu (see p. 80),
during the composition of her great
romance. A small fee to the cus-
todian will unlock the door, and
enable the Tisitor to insiject the
ink-slab she used and a manuscript
Buddhist sutra said to be in her
handwriting.

The gi-oimds contain several mi-
nor temples and other buildings.
Walking up past the pagoda, we
reach the Tsuki-mi w> Chin, whose
name means literally " the Moon-
gazing Arbour." This point affords
a charming view of the lake, the
river, the long bridge, and the
mountains that enclose the basin
of the lake to the E., the foreground
being, however, somewhat sjjoilt by
rising ground all along the 1. bank
of the river. Lshiyama-dera is
famed for the beauty of its maple-
trees in autumn.

3. Eastern Shoee of the Lake.

HiKONE. NaGAHAMA.

Chiktjbu-shima.

All the places described above
can easily be seen mthin the limits
of a single day, — Miidera, Karasaki,
and Sakamoto being taken in the
morning, and the Long Bridge with
lshiyama-dera in a short afternoon.
A second day will be required to do
the chief places on the E. shore of
the lake, — Hikone and Nagahama,
with perhaps Chikubu-shima.
Those staying at the vill. of Lshi-
yama-dera may thence make a
pleasant excursion to the temple of
Tashiki Kwannon on the summit
of a hill some way down the course
of the Setagawa.

Hikone (Inn, * lliiku-raku-tei,
in the castle grounds with beau-
tiful garden), situated on the shore
of the lake, possesses the remains
of a fine feudal castle, formerly the
seat of a celebrated Daimyo called
li Kamon-no-Kami (see p. 124).
This is open to visitors on appU-
oation at the Eaku-raku-tei, and

the view from the top is one of
panoramic magnificence. The inn
itself was formerly the retreat, on
abdication, of the father of the
reigning Daimyo.

This castle waa about to perish in the
general ruin of such biiildings, which ac-
companied the mania for all things Euro-
pean antl the contempt of their national
antiquities, whereby the Japanese were
aetuatetl during the first two decades of
the present regime. It so chanced, how-
ever, that the Emperor, on a progress
through Central Japan, spent a night at
Hikone, and finding the local officials
busy pulling down the old caatle, com-
inanded them to desist. The lover of the
picturesque will probably be more grate-
ful to His Majesty for this gracious act of
clemency towards a doomed edifice than
for many scores of the improvements
which the present government has set
on foot, more especially when the so-
called improvements relate to archi-
tecture.

At N^yti, some 3h ri from Hikone,
away in the hills towards Seki-ga-
hara, is a fish-breeding estabUsh-
ment [Yog yoba), where salmon and
salmon-troiit are reared according
to the most approved modern
methods. The place may also be
reached from Maibara station,
whence the distance is but 2 ri 13
cho.

Nagahama (Inn, Izutsu-ya at
railway station), also on the lake, is
the finest town between Otsu and
Tsuruga, and commands a delight-
ful view.

The place is celebrated for its crape
called h(tma-cliirimeii, toT tsuminji (a fabric
woven from spun floss silk), and for
mosquito in'tting. most of which is
made in the surrounding villages by
weavers who i-eceive the thread from
the dealers in the town and return it
to them made iiiJ. When the crape come.«
from the weavers, it presents the appear-
ance of gauze, and has to be boiled by
persons called neri-ya. Upon drying it
shrinks considerably in breadth, and
assumes the wrinkled textuie proper to
crape. There are two qualities, one per-
fectly white, which alone is suitable for
dyeing scarlet, and another of a pale
bluish tint which will take all other dyes.
A large quantity of the raw silk used in
this manufacture is produced in the
neighbourhood.

The island of Chikubu-shima,
near the N. end of Lake Biwa, can

Route 41. — From Lake Biwa to Arna-no-Hashidate. 399^

be re.ached from Nagahama by boat,
— 3 ri. A better plan still is to take
jinrikisha fi-om Nagahama to the
vill. of Hayazaki, whence it is only
a passage of 50 cho. Remember
that Lake Biwa, like most lakes, is
subject to sudden squalls, making
it always advisable to engage an
extra boatman in case of need. It
is also sometimes possible, by
previous application, to get one of
the lake steamers to stop at the
island. Chikubu-shima, which is
high and thickly-wooded, has a
temple to Kwannon which is No. 30
of the Thirty-three Holy Places.
There are no inns on the island.

The priests tolerate no taking
of life, whence doubtless the fact
that myriads of cormorants and
herons make their home here,
particularly in the breeding season,
July and August ; and it is a
wonderful sight, at the approach
of evening, to see them flocking
thither from every quarter. From
the summit of the island one can
look down upon their nests among
the branches of the pine-trees,
which there line the almost per-
pendicular coast. In order to pre-
vent the birds from polluting the
temple, the priests hang up boards
which clatter in the wind, or are
pulled by strings to frighten them
away.

The return journey by train from
Nagahama to Otsu calls for no si)e-
cial description, the mountains,
etc., that are seen being those al-
ready often mentioned.

ROUTE 41.

From Lake Biwa theough Wakasa.

AND Tango to Ama-no-Hashidate

ON THE Ska op Japan, and via

YUSHIMA AND THE ]VIlNES OF
IkUNO to HiMEJI ON THE

Inland Sea.

The most expeditious means of
reaching Ama-no-Hashidate direct
is afforded_by the railway from
Kyoto, via Osaka, Kanzaki, Sanda^
and Sasayama, to Fukuchi-yama (5J
hrs.), whence by basha or jinrikisha
to Miyazu by the itinerary given on
p. 404. An alternative is to avail
oneself of the line passing by
Arashi-yama to Sonobe, the pre-
sent terminus (if hr.), whence also
by basha or jinrikisha (see same
itinerary). But travellers with time
on hand are advised to follow the
more picturesque and varied route
here described. The roads are
excellent throughout, as are also
the inns.

The first stage is by lake steamer
from Otsu to Imazu in dh hrs.,
after which the Itinerary is as
follows :

IMAZU to :— Bi Cho M.

Kumagawa 4 18 11

OBAMA 4 8 10^

Wada(orboat) 4 28 11|

Takahama 15 1

Kissaka 2 29 6|

Ichiba 1 13 3J

MAIZURU 2 16 6

Yura 3 9 8

MIYAZU 3 9 8

Ono (Amarube) 4 2 10

Topof Hiji-J g 3 18 ^

yama-toge f g ^

Kumihama ( g. . . 3 18 8J

YUSHIMA )^ 4 — 9^

Toyo-oka 2 32 7

Yoka 5 6 12J

Wadayama 3 9 8

Takeda 19 3

IKUNO 4 8 lOJ

Total 58 33 143|

400

Route 41. — From Lake Biioa to Anii-no-HasJddale.

The trip Tip the west coast of
Lake Biwa is delighthil on a fine
day. Various miniature ports are
touched at, — Katata, Omizo (Katsu-
no), Funaki, and Fukamizo, — and
one gets a pissing glimpse of
several of the Omi Hakkei (see p.
394), notably the pine-tree of Kara-
saki. The whole lake basin is seen
to be enclosed by mountains, the
most conspicuous being Mikami-
yama (also called the Fuji of Omi)
to the r., Ibuki-yama further ahead
to the T., and the chain of Echizen
forming a ban-ier straight ahead.

Between Ixnazu [Inn, Fukuda-
ya) and Kumagaica (Ian, Hishi-ya),
the road cuts across the hills separ-
ating the province of Omi from
that of Wakiisa on the Sea of
Japan. Except in summer, a lower
temperature and a cloudier sky are
apt to be met ^vith as soon as the
boundary is crossed.

Obama ( Inn, * Yahara-ya), capital
of "Wakiisa, is a clean seaport town,
noted for a variety of lacquer
( Wakafia-nuri) with serpentine and
staiTed or dotted patterns in bronze
or gi-een.

A piece of any size, such as a tray or
box, occupies five or six rnontha iu the
making ; even a pair of chopsticks, two
mouths, owing to the many layei-s that
are applied and the drying necessary
between each.

The whole coast of Wakasa is ex-
tremely pretty, recalling the Inland
Sea, but gieener and more abrupt,
with steep islets and headLands
all wooded. Such narrow strips
and patches of arable land as are
left between the precipitous hills
and the sea are cultivated with
great care, and the peasantry seem
healthy and prosperoiis. The invi-
gorating sea-breezes are unaccom-
panied by any seji smells, perhaps
owing partly to the absence of tide.

The tidelessnesa of this sea on the
Japanese side was noted by the poet
Hitomaro twelve hundred years ago. The
opposite Korean coast also has an un-
nsually small rise and fall, — something
under 18 inches.

ITie sail westwards across the
Bay of Obama makes a charming
variety. Tada-ga-iake is the highest
peak of the range rising behind the
town. Aoba-yama ahead is a perfect
little Fuji in shape, but tree-clad to
the stujimit. From the landing-
place at Wada it is flat on to Taka-
hama (Inn, Mugi-ya), a large and
prosperous ^•ill. standing on a pic-
turesque bay. Thence it is a pretty
inland w;Jk, amidst rich cultivation
and over two or three hills, via
Kissaka

[This is the best place whence to
climb Aoba-yama, 1 ri to the
summit by an easy path.]

to Ichiba and

Maizuru (Inn, * Furukame-ya).
This small but cle;in town, whose
name is alternatively pronounced
Bukaku,

Maizuru being the native Japanese, Bu-
kaku the Chinese pronunciation of the
characters used to write it, which mean
"dancing crane."

was formerly the seat of a Daimyo,
and possesses numerous temj)les
both Buddhist and Shinto. It was
selected in 1890 as one of the chief
naval stations of the empire ; but
nothing was done till 1895, and the
dockyard is still in process of con-
struction. As a matter of fact, the
naval station (Cldnjufu) is only
nominally at Maizuru, the actual
spot being a small bay 2 rl to the
E., round a headland not far from
Icliiba. "Visitors are not admitted.

We are now in the province of
Tango. The road soon enters the
valley of the Yuragawa at its most
picturesque part not far from the
coast, steep hills, — some of them
2,000 ft. high, accompanying the
river to its very mouth. Yxira, a
scattered vill., is mentioned in the
national annals as the bii'thplace
of Urashima (see p. 85). iYom
here a tine causeway leads along
the bold granite chfEs high above
the sea, till turning inland, it
passes through a cutting from
whose further end Ama-no-Hashi-

Miyazu. Ama-no-Hashidate.

LOl

date is seen straight ahead but not
to advantage, and Miyazu to the 1.
Miyazu {Inn, *Aralri-ya has villa
on outskirts of town, with bathing-
stage and good view) is a small
town possessing considerable fish-
eries, and having occasional steam
communication east and west. It
derives a reflected glory from Ama-
no-Hashidate which lies about 1 ri
off.

The curious name Amu-no-Hashidate,—
in Chinese, Ten-ki/n, — literally "the Bridge
(or ladder) of Heaven," is Raid to have
been given to this place in allusion to the
Ama no Uki-hashi, or ' ' Floating Bridge
of Heaven," whereon the creator and
creatress, Izanagi and Izauami, stood
when they stirred up the brine of
primeval chaos with their jewelled
spear, the drops from which consolidat-
ed into the first island of the Japanese
archipelago.

Buddhist legend, too, has been busy-
about the place. Monju, the God of Wis-
dom, presides over the chief local temple.
The following story, depicted in tLie ac-
companying illustration, is also told.
About A.D. 700, a pious hermit from
Kyoto, named Saion Zenji, struck by the
loveliaess of Ama-no-Hashidate, took up
his abode on Nariai-sau, raising there a
little shrine to Kwannon, the Goddess of
Mercy, on a spot situated a short way
above the Ippon-viatsu, or "single pine-
tree " mentioned below. There, facing
the scene of beauty, he spent all his
days chanting the Buddhist scriptures,
much to the edification of the country
folk who came to pray at the temple from
time to time. But in this land of cold
winters there came a season when the
snow fell and fell, till it was piled up
to a height of fall twenty feet, and for
many weeks all intercourse with the outer
world was cut off. The hermit, looking
out one morniug, saw a deer that had
perished of hunger and cold. He himself
was cold and hungry, but he pitied the
poor creature even though it was already
dead, and he remembered likewise that
even the laity were forbidden by the
Merciful One to eat tLie flesh of beasts
— who are conscious, suflering crea-
tures as much as man himself — how
much more then a hermit specially devot-
ed to a life of prayer and penance.
Second thoughts, however, succeeded to
these. The spirit surely of the divine
commands should count above the letter.
He could do more to help on the con-
ver.siou of the world by tasting the deer's
flesh and thus preserving his own life for
the purpose of preaching to the country
folk, than by lying down and dying, as
he must otherwise do. He therefore cut

off a slice of the venison, cooked it and
ate half, leaving the other half in the pot.
Soon afterwards, when milder weather
allowed of a track being made up from
the village to the holy mountain, the
villagers came feariug to find tlieir hermit
starved to death ; but lo and behold I as
they approached, his voice was heard
ringing out clearly across the silvery
scene in accents of prayer and pi-aise.
He told them what had happened. But
when they looked into the pot for the
otLier half of the slice of venison, lo! it was
no venison, but a bit of wood covered on
one side with gold foil. Ttien they ex-
amined the sacred image of the goddess,
and found that a piece of that very size
and shape had been cut out of her loins ;
and when they jjut the piece in its place
it clave to the image, whose wound was
thus healed in a moment. Then all knew
that the seeming stig had been no stag,
but the merciful goddess Kwannon in
disguise, who had given of her own
spiritual flesh to support the pious hermit
in his dire distress.

Ama-no-Hasliidate has been
famous throughout Japan from
lime immemorial as one of the San-
kei, or " Three Great Sights " of the
empire. Described in prosaic topo-
graphical parlance, it is a narrow
sandy spit which nearly closes up a
lateral arm of the gulf at whose head
Miyazu is situated. Its length is a
little under 28 cho, or not quite 2 m.;
its breadth about 190 ft. A grove
of pine-trees extends right along it.
The arm or bay which it encloses,
called Iwaiaki no M'mato, is 1 ri from
E. to W., and over 1 ri from N. to S.
The depth of the bay in the middle
is 11 fathoms ; but the entrance is
too shallow to admit any but the
smallest craft. Hence, though the
waves may be in seething commo-
tion on one side, on the other, but a
few yards off, there is the perfect
stillness of a mill-pond. At the
southern tip, a break of some 200
yards has to be crossed by ferry.

Till 1870 the pine-grove came down to
the water's edge at this southernmost
point. In that year, when all authority was
loosened by the impending downfall of
feudalism, the common people, grasping
at a paltry gain, began ruthlessly to cut
down the trees and dammed up the natur-
al outlet of the inner lake in order to turn
part of it into rice-fields Then, with the
summer rain.% a great; tlood came down

Ama-no-Hashidate. Yushima.

403

from Oeyama, and swept all away, includ-
ing a beautiful lotus-pond belonging to
the Mouju-do.

Siich are the bare facts relating
to this celebrated spot, which is
reached by jiniiMsha from Miyazn,
the jinrildsha being also taken
across the Monju-do ferry to ride
along the pine-grove. But Ama-no-
Hashidate, to be appreciated, must
be viewed from a height. For this
purpose, the jinrildsha should be
taken on to the vill. of Ejiri at its
N. end, and the visitor should cKmb
a few cho up Nariai-san to Ippon-
matsii, a solitary pine-tree, whence
the prospect is as lovely as it is
unique. Lake Iwatald lies on the
r. hand, Miyazu Bay like another
lake on the 1., with Ama-no-Hashi-
date dividing the two like a delicate
green thread. The bay of Kunda
peeps out beyond the hills, shutting
in Miyazu with Yura-ga-take be-
hind. Turning round, we have
the Sea of Japan stretching away
to the horizon with the high
islands of Oshima and Kojima, and
in the extreme distance Haku-san
and the mountains of Kaga. This
expedition can easily be done in
an afternoon.

Another favourite point for
viewing Ama-no-Hashidate is Myo-
ken-do, on the O-uchi-toge, 2 ri 20
cho N.W. of Miyazu, over which
the new highway to the hot springs
of Yushima will lead.

Six or seven cho to the S. of
Miyazu is a line waterfall, called
Anda no taki. — Ko- Ama-no-Hashi-
date is a pretty, but smaller, pine-
clad stretch near Kumihama.

What is called Ura-Maicarl,
that is the N. coast of the bold
headland to the N. W. of Miyazu,
is a favourite summer resort, on
account of its fine rocks and good
sea air. The bay of Ine is the
principal local fishing ground,
whales being taken there, as well
as many smaller species.

The distance from Miyazu to Yu-
shima overilthe Mitodani-tdge and
liijiyama-ibge can be accompUshed

in a single day in jinrildsha with
two men, the hills having easy gi-a-
dients, and pedestrians, on the
other hand, being able to save a
good deal by shoi-t cuts.

[Another road, sometimes taken
if happening to be in better
repair, leads over the 0-uchi-
ioge. The distance from Miya-
zu to I'^ushima this way is
between 15 and IG ri, the first
stage of 2 ri being by steam
ferry to Iwataki-hama.]

The scenery is pleasing, except
for the effects of deforestation.
The finest stage is near the end,
where one comes down to the
Maruyama-gawa, to cross over by
feiTy to the other side. The high
gi'een hills, which here hem in the
river near its mouth, the tranquil
water, and the big junlcs moored
near the shore, combine to make a
peaceful picture. The highest hill
towards the sea is Tsuyama. From
the ferry it is 13 cho to

Yustiima, a little town of inns
and bath-houses called into exis-
tence by the hot springs, which
folks come all the way from Kyo-
to and Osalia to visit. The best
inns are * Y''uto-ya, with private
spring, and Nishimura. The public
baths are well-arranged, and the
water, which is very hot and
slightly sulphurous, will be temper-
ed for the convenience of first-class
guests. The summer is the busiest
season.

The most ancient of the springs, which
is said to have been known ever since
A.D. 593, is called Ko no yu, lit. "the hot
water of the stork," iu allusion to a tale
which is not witliout its counterparts in
Europe. A peasant (so it is alleged) was
surprised to see a stork, apparently suffer-
ing from pain in its legs, alighting and
burrowing, as it were, in the ground at a
certain spot on the plain. It did this for
several days in succession, and at last
flew away cured. Thereupon the peasant
examined the s^jot, and discovered the
mineral spring, over which he and his
fellows erected a bathiug-shed.

We now leave the coast region
and turn south, following for

404 RouLi- 4:1. — F7-oni Lake Biwa to Ama-no-Hashidate.

many miles the broad green waters
of the placid Maruyama-gawa, with
green ranges on either side in the
distance. Three-quarters hr. may
be well spent in visiting the basaltic
caves of Gembudo, which are seen
high up on the opposite (r.) bank.
There is a ferry to them at the
hamlet of Futami.

Toyo-oka (Lm, Miki-ya) is a
large town lining the 1. bank of the
river, and noted for its manufac-
ture of yanagi-gori, — light wicker
trunks for which the willows that
abound in • this neighbourhood
afford the material. The other
towns on the way, Y5ka, Yabu-
ichiba, and Wadayama, are dull
places calling for no description;
but the pleasing, almost EngUsh,
character of the scenery continues
all the way up the river. There is
a steep hill just before reaching

Ikuno [Inn, *Shiba-sen). This
place, almost exactly on the water-
shed between the Sea of Japan and
the Inland Sea, lies at an altitude
of 1,200 ft. in the midst of steep
wooded hills, gay in autumn with
every tint of red and yellow, and
is said to experience a daily rain-
fall. Its present importance comes
from its silver mines, which are
the second largest in the empire
and the best worked. (The largest
are those of Innai in the province
of Ugo, — see Route 72.) It is a
noisy little town, but clean.

The general name of Ikuno covers three
separate mines, — Tasei, Mikobata, and
Kanagase, the two former of which pro-
duce silver and gold, the last silver and
copper. The ore is brought on a light
railway to the village, where the silver
is extracted. Two processes are employ-
ed. In one, the crushed and roasted ore
is lixiviated with hyposuli^hite of soda,
and the silver then precipitated by sul-
phite. The machinery is driven by tur-
bines. Visitors are admitted to the works
between the hours of 'J a.m. and i p.m.
Fifteen hundred persons are employed,
including a number of women and little
girls above-ground. The miners work
day and night in three shifts of 8 hours
each, the above-ground hands, 11 hoiu«.

A spare afternoon at Ikuno may
be deYote<i to strolling up to the

dam (Mabuchi no ehosui), IJ m. oflE,
used to raise the level of the water
at the head of the flume, — power
about 200 H.P.

The Bantan B.att.wat.

Distance

from

Names of Stations

Ikuno

IKUNO

5 m.

Hase

Teramae

Tsurui

14^

Amaji

16^

Fukuzaki

201-

Koro

22^:

Nibuno

24|

Nozato

27^

HIMEJI

30|

Shikama

iShikama, the terminus of the

Hne, to which however we do

not go, is a small port on the

coast.]

The railway journey from Ikuno

to Himeji occupies 2^ hr. down the

valley of the Ichikawa, picturesque

^dth high hUls. Just at the last

these lose their gi-eenness, and

assume the bare, patchy aspect

characteristic of the northern shore

of the Inland Sea. Then Himeji

Castle comes in sight (see p. 318).

Itinerary of the main road from
Sonobe to IVIiyazu through the prov-
inces of Tamba and Tango.

SONOBE to :— Bi Clio M.

Hinoki-yama 3 31 9 J

Ikimo 5 33 14^

FUKUCHI-YAMA. 2 2G 6|

Komori (Tadehara) 3 7 7J

Hatta 4 9 lOj-

Yura 1 34 4|

MIYAZU 3 9 8

Total 25 5 6U

(Do not confound the Ikuno of
this Itinerary, which is in the
province of Tamba, with. Ikuno in
Tajima, described above.)

Boule 42. — WeM (Joaslfrom Tsuruga to Naoelsu. 405

An alternative way from Fuku-
clii-yama to the coast is by boat
down the Yura-gawa. But travel-
lers are advised to take the boat
only as far as Komori, 3 ri, the
current being swift down to that
place, but sluggish beyond. The
passage occupies 2 hra., either by
passenger boat starting daily, or
by private boat. The scenery i".
roLuantic.

ROUTE 42.

The West Coast from Tscrucja to
FuKui, Kanazawa, Toyama,

AND NaOETSU.

A four or five days' trip, enabling
the traveller to see something of
the seaboard of the provinces of
Echizen, Kaga, and Etchu on the
Sea of Japan, is that from Kyoto to
Tsuruga, Fuliui, Kanazawa, and To-
yama by rail, whence by jinrildsha
to the port of Fushild in Etchu.
Naoetsu, on the Karuizawa EaUway,
can be reached by steamer in 10
hrs. In the event of the steamer
between FushiM and Naoetsu not
beiug available, the itinerary by
road — mostly dull travelling — is ap-
pended (see p. 407).

Maibaba-Tsubtjga Railway.

" r. O

Names

3 3-s

^?X

Ilemarku

■a-«

Stations

4.5m.

MAIBAR.V

See p. ■lil.

Nagahauia

See p. 3'M.

56j Takatsuki

a^J

Inokuchi

Kiuoiuoto

61 J

Nakanogo

6ii

Yanagase

Hikida

75}

Tsuruga

KANA-GA-SAKI

(Pier Station)

Tkuruga-Toyama Railway.

o . §, Isames

g a s

* g 3 <''t

Keiiiarks

2 ^

Stations

TSURUGA

8',-

Suiza

Imajo

•21j

Sabaaami

•26*

TAKEFU

Sabae

Odoro

38*

FUKUI

42j

Morita

Shinjo

iOh

Kanazu

52"

Hosorogi

57i-

Daishoji

Iburi-hashi

68*

Kojnatsu

7il

Mikawa

80i

Matsuto

8SJ

KANAZAWA

9;!5

Tsubata

1 Change for

102

I.surugi

(Nanao.

lOG*

Fukuoka

112"

Takaoka

116 i
123

Kosugi
totama

1 Temporary
1 terminus.

The railway journey between
Kyoto and Maibara is described in
Route 23 ; and the shores of Lake
Biwa, as far as the next station,
Nagahama, in Route 40.

At Nagahama {Inn, Izutsu-ya
at station), the railway leaves the
lake and the scenery becomes tame.
From Yanagase onward to Hikida,
the line runs in narrow vaUeys
between wooded hills, and through
several tunnels ; thence through
cultivated country down to the
coast of the Sea of Japan.

Tsuruga (Inn, Kome-shichi)
has two stations, one called Tsuru-
ga, another, 5 rain, further on,
called

Kana-ga-saki, or the Pier Sta-
tion. The latter (Inns, Daikoku-ya,
Kome-shichi) is in the better part
of the town, with the steamer-ofKce,
banks, and other useful institutions
in its vicinity ; but through trains
do not stop here. Tsuruga has the
best harbour on the Sea of Japan,

406 Route 4:2. — West Coast from Tsurvga to Nax)etsu.

and is in constant steam commnni- I
cation with the ports np and down |
the coast. The town itself is some- i
what shut in ; but a charming view !
of land and sea may be obtained by j
climbing a small hill near the rail-
way station called Atarjo-yama,
beyond which again is the site of
the castle of the celebrated warrior
Mtta Yoshisada. The long i)romon-
tory closing in the bay on the W.
side, and sheltering it from those
N.W. blasts that render the winter
on this coast so terrible, is called
Taieishi-zaki. On its extremity
stands a lighthouse, — not, however,
■visible from the town. The stretch
of laud to the N. E., which looks
like a promontory as seen from
Tsuruga, is called Kome-no-ura.

Were it not for a dozen smoky
tunnels between Tsuruga and
Imajo, the railway jom-ney would
be a pleasant one. The line, after
climbing up and round the hill
that stands over Kana-ga-saki, runs
along the face of the heights above
the batteries and the bay of
Tsuruga. Here and there, notably
at Sidzu, there are pictiu-esque
peeps of the lower slopes and of
the bay. The descent to Imajo
leads thi-ough a very naiTow valley,
or rather a succession of gorges.
From Fukui on to Kanazawa the
railway traverses one of the richest
plains in Japan, which is, however,
unfortunately subject to inunda-
tions, traffic being almost invariably
suspended two or three times a
year, especially dming the July
rains.

Takefu [Inn, Kome-ya) manii-
factures marbled paper (.swmi-
naijasU), cotton, silk, and hard-
ware. One of the most striking
objects in the \icinity is the moun-
tain called lUna-ga-take.

Fukui (Inn, Nawa-ya ; Bestt.,
Tsuldmi-ro), formerly the capital
of the Daimyos of Echizen, still
possesses the picturesque re-
mains of the castle which was their
scat, and a Hongwanji temple with
a beautiful "siew towards the hills.

It is noted for the maniifacture of
hahuiai, paper, and yuion, — a thick
oil-paper used to cover the mats in
summer. A species of crab called
ma-rjani is caught all along the coast,
and tinned for export. A pleasant
excursion can be made from Fukui
to the waterfall of Ichijo-daki, dis-
tant 4^ ri. In the same valley, 2 or
3 m. below the waterfall,stand the
ruins of a castle dating from the
16th century. iSakai, also called
3Iikuni, the port of Fukui, stands at
the confluence of three small rivers,
13^ m. distant from the city. Fukui
is the best place from which to make
the ascent of Haku-san (see p. 299).
To foreigners, Fukui will he further of
interest as having been the residence,
from 1871 to 1872. of the author of the
Mikado's Empire, Rev. Dr. Griffis, to
whose pages the reader is referred for a
graphic and touching account of the abdi-
cation of the Daimyo on the Ist October,
1871, when the decree abolishing feuda-
lism had been issued.

Daishoji was one of the places
to which the Christians of the Naga-
saki district were exiled during the
last persecution in 1867-1873.

Iburi-hashi is the station for
some pleasant spas. The nearest,
about J hr. by jinrildsha, is Kataya-
mazu (Inn, Chibata-ya, with private
baths), situated on a lake which
affords boating and fishing. A
strong sulphtir spring rises in this
lake about iCO yds. from the shore,
and is conducted in pipes to the
■\illage square. Katayamazu, how-
ever, is hot and has many mos-
quitoes. It may be preferable to
go on 1 hr. by jimikisha to Ymna-
shiro (or one may reach Yamashiro
from Iburi-hashi direct), which is
cool, being at the base of the hills.
Many large inns here form a village
square ; the Chibata-ya, with private
baths is recommended. Yamashiro
provides most of the clay for the
potters of Terai and Kanazawa.
Hence a charming ride of 1 hr.,
mostly up a rocky valley, takes one
to Yamanaka (Inn, Izumi-ya), the
best of all these spas, a breezy and
cool place. There is pretty river

Kanamua io Tahaoha. Province of Nolo.

407

scenery both above and below the
■village, -with tiny tea-houses perched
among the rocks. In returning from
here, the nearest station is Daishoji.

Matsuto is noted as the birth-
place of the poetess Kaga-no-Chiyo.
Travellers v.'ill remark the great
industry and economy practised in
the agriculture of this district, even
the ridges between the rice-fields
being sown with beans or barley.

Kanazavsra ( Inns, Ayabe, Asada,
Taka-batake ; Europ. food at a
restt. in the pixblic garden)
was the seat of the lords of the
province of Eaga, the richest of
all the Daimyds. It is now the
capital of the prefecture of Ishikawa,
which includes the provinces of
Kaga and Noto. It is both clean
and picturesque, and the hills above
it command a fine prospect. The
castle is now used as the headquar-
ters of a military division. To the
r. of the castle is the public garden,
called by the literati Ken-roku-en, or
" the Sixfold Garden," because pos-
sessing sis excellencies, viz. size,
pleasing appearance, labom- bestow-
ed upon it, an air of antiqiiity, run-
ning water, and a charming viev/.
The grounds contain an Industrial
Museum (Kwangyo Hakuhutsu-
kwan), and a fine monument erect-
ed to the memory of the soldiers
who fell fighting in the Satsuma
Kobellion. The monument, which
was erected in 1880, consists of a
pile of large stones, on which stands
a handsome bronze figiu-e of Yama-
to-take, over 18 ft. high. Daijoji-
yama is a gi-eat picnic resort in
spring, when the plum, cherry, and
peach-blossoms all come out toge-
ther, owing to the late disappear-
ance of the snow. At Kanazawa
the celebrated Kutani porcelain is
produced in abundance. A visit
should be paid to the potlei-'ies of
Gankwa-do near the public garden,
where the processes of manufac-
turing and painting the porcelain
can be inspected. Bronzes inlaid
with gold and silver {zogmi), and
fans are also produced. The valley

of the Saigaica affords some fine

scenery, and the system of canals,

constructed 300 years ago, well
deserves inspection.

Tsubata.

[A branch line, 33 miles, runs
from this jDlace to Nanao, cap-
ital of the Province of Noto.

This province, the Jutland of Japan,
obtains ita name from the word
notlu, which means "peninsula" in
the language of the former Aino
aborigines. Noto is one of the wet-
test iMrts of the empire.

Nanao (Inn, Ogome-ya) is a
considerable town situated on
the shores of a miniature in-
land sea, across which small
steamers ply. No mail boats
call in here, unless it be for
shelter during a gale. The
chief holiday resort in the
neighbourhood is the mineral
spiing of Wakiira, J hr. by
jinrikisha over a flat road ;
but it, and indeed the province
of Noto generally — low, sandy,
and poor in historic associa-
tions— are little calculated to
interest the foreign visitor.]
Isurugi { Jnn,Tokko-ya), also call-
ed Tma-isuru(ji, is a flourishing place.
Takaoka (Inns, Akai-ya, Etchu-
ya), stretching for a mile or more
along the road in a cotton-weaving
and silkworm-breeding district, is
also noted for its dyes and hardware.

[It is a distance of 2 ri from
Takaoka to

Fushiki (Inns, Okada, Ueda),
one of the " Special Ports
of Export," whence the Itiner-
ary to Naoetsu is as follows :

FUSHIKI to :— Ri Cho M.
Higashi Iwase ... 3 5 7|
Nameri-kawa ... 3 G 7:f

Uotsu 2 8 5|

Toman 7 29 19

Itoigawa 9 8 22^

Nagahama 9 8 22|

NAOETSU 2 18 6

Total 37 8 90|

408 Route 42. — W'^st Coast from Tsuruga to Naoelsu.

The best halting-places be-
tween Fusliiki and Naoetsii are
Uots'u and Ttoigawa, — -this latter
the starting-point for a delight-
ful trip due sonth into the
heart of the monntains (see
p. 290). Between these two
places, — at Tomari, — the hills
trend off into the interior of
the province, and the delta of
the Kwohe-gawa is reached at
the hamlet of Nishi Kusano.
This river rises on Washiha-
dake, on the boundaries of
Etchu, Hida, and Shinshu, be-
hind Tateyama, and has a total
length of 50 miles. Its delta
is subject to periodical floods,
against which none of the pre-
cautions yet taken appear to
have been effectual. The last
day of the journey is also
the most picturesque, as the
road leads for several miles
along bold cliffs by the shore,
commanding a glorious view
of the Sea of Japan.

Jinrikisha travel along this
coast will probably soon be a

thing of the past, as an exten-
sion of the Tsuruga-Toyama
railway to Naoetsu is in con-
templation.
For Naoetsu, see p. 265.]

Toyama (Inns, * Kiga, Taka-
matsu-kwan), is the capital of the
prefecture of the same name and of
the province of Etchu. Its port,
Higashi hnase, lies at the mouth of
the Jinzu-gawa, 5 m. distant by
jinrikisha.

Tojama was formerly the seat of a
Daimyo, whose castle is now utilised as
a school. In spite of its remote situation,
Toyama enjovs the distlmtiou of having,
compared with other ijrovinces of Jajjan,
the least number of illiterates. But an
unusual proportion of the inhabitants are
wall-eyed. The principal trade of the
place consists in medicines aad leather.

The snow-capped summit of
Haku-san (see p. 29i)) forms a strik-
ing object in the landscape. To-
yama is a good starting-point for
those who, approacliing them from
this side, wish to scale the peaks of
Etchu and Hida, described in Route
31.

OAMOi 30IJJ0 3NlAVaON3 QOOAOX

^ei

MYaoo oid:iaYa

ujnoui,

a ••>^

' TS^.W " J ^i A S A K A . ,,,.,1^ >■— -HSs-

■Vy^ lashana^

fiJkeda SaAimttsu. Imnaioia /

-i OtaqtJtxhi^j^

,Ochi '^n6

SECTION lY.

WESTERN JAPAN AND THE
INLAND SEA.

(koutes 4^ — 46.

Route 4o. — The Inland Sea.

411

BOUTE 43.

The Inland Sea and the Chief

Places on ok near its

NoETHEKN Shore.

1. GENERAL INFORMATION. 2. THE
SAN\'6 RAILWAY. 3. THE INLAND
SEA BY COASTING STEAMER. 4.
THE INLAND SEA BY MAIL STEAMER.

5. northern shore i okayama,
[shodo-shima], FUKUYAMA, TOMO-

TSU, ONOMICHI, MIHAEA, TAKE-

hara, ktjre, hiroshima, miya.tima,
rwakuni, yanaitsu, mitajibi,
yamaguchi, toyo-uba, shimono-
seki, moji.

1. — General Information.

The Inland Sea is the name
giYen to the water space lying
between the Main Island on the
north, and the islands of Shikoku
and Kyushu on the south. It com-
municates with the open sea by the
Naruto passage and Akashi Strait
on tbe east, by the Bungo Channel
between Sbikoku and Kyushu, and
by the Strait of Shinionoseki at
the western end. It is about '24(t
miles long from Akashi Strait to
Shimonoseld, its greatest width
(opposite the Bungo Channel) being
about 4.0 m., while it narrows to
8 m. where the province of Bizen
approaches that of Sanuki in longi-
tude 134"^. The Japanese divide
it into five open spaces or Nada,
which, named from East to West,
are as follows : — Harima Nada,
Bingo Nada, Mishima Nada, lyo
Nada, and Suwo Nada. Haiinia
Nada is divided from Bingo Nada
by an archipelago of islands, rocks,
and shoals, through which the
passage for ships narrows in some
places to a few hundred yards.
Bingo Nada is divided from Mi-
shima Nada, and the latter from
lyo Nada in the same manner, and
here the channel is even narrower,
notably at one place where there is
only just room for two ships to
pass abreast.

The Inland Sea affords the most
direct roiite from Kobe to Naga-
salci and Shanghai. For vessels
proceeding anywhere to the west-
ward it offers a smooth water
passage, by which the uncertain
weather and stormy seas of the
outer passage may be avoided. No
doubt the intricacies of the chan-
nels may present some disadvan-
tages to mariners ; but to the travel-
ler the smoothness of the water
and the continuously varying and
picturesque scenery are an unfail-
ing source of pleasure and comfort
throughout its entire length. The
larger islands are mountainous ;
and although (differing in this
from most parts of Jnpan) they
lack timber, the etiective contrast
of light and shade gives colour to
the background. The smaller
islands are of every conceivable
fantastic shape, some being mere
rocks, while others attain to consid-
erable height and size. Nearly aU
are inhabited by a hiilf-farming,
half -fishing population. The shores
are lined with villages, the hillsides
laid out in helds, and the waters
stixdded with trading junks and
tishing-boats. According to Japa-
nese accounts, the total number of
islands amounts to several thou-
sands, though it is a puzzle to
understand how they were ever
counted. Another puzzle to the
EuToj)ean visitor, to v/hom the In-
land Sea has become a household
word, is the fact that the Japanese
themselves have no corresponding
name in common use. The terms
Seto no uthi (lit. " within the chan-
nels ") and Nai-kai, ('"inner sea ")
are mere inventions of modern
cartographers, intended to translate
the English name. Neither have
the Japanese poets ever raved over
this lovely portion of their native
country. Only Suma and Akashi
at its eastern end seem to have
arrested their attention. All the
greater reason why foreigners
should do it justice.

The fish and shell-fish of the

412

Route 43. — Tlie Inland Sea.

Inland Sea enjoy a great reputation
"with native epicures.

2. — The Sanyo Katlwat.

A line of railway, known as the
Sanyo Railway, is nearly com-
pleted along the northern shore of
the Inland Sea, starting from Kobe,
passing through Himeji, Okayama,
Onomichi, Hiroshima, Iwalcuni, To-
kuyama, and Mitajiri, and ending
at Shimonoseki. It is intended to
connect with the Kyushu Kailway,
which starts from Moji on the op-
posite side of the straits and ter-
minates at Nagasaki. Up to the
present (1900), the following por-
tion of the Sanyo line has been
opened to traffic.

Names

Ilemarka

.2'£3M

StatLouB

KOBE

Im.

Hyogo

Takatoii

Suma

)

SJiioya

Tarumi

I See p. 318.

9i
12
16

Maiko

Akashi

Okubo

Tsuchiyama

24i

Kakogawa

26i

Hoden

Aniida

iili

Groehaku

HIMEJI Jet

iCbange for
1 Bantan line.

40i

Al)oslai

TatsuL o

Naba

Dne

55i'

Kamigori

63J

Mitsuishi

Yosbinaga

711

Wake

76i

Mautomi

79A

Seto

84i

IS'agaoka

OKAYAMA

jBrancb to
{ Teuyama.

931

Niwase

Kurasbiki

lOi'i

Tauiashima

IWi

Kaiuogata

na'h

KasHoka

120^

Daimon

125'

FUKUYAMA

1312

Matsunaga

1373

ONOMICHI

143 J

Itozaki

145"

MIHAKA

1511

Hongo

159

Kocbi

1641

Sbiraicbi

170"

Saijo

173S

Hacbi-hou -m atsu

180}

8eno

1851

Kaiflaichi

189'.'

HIKOSHIMA

19li

Yokogawa

193i

Koi

199}

Hatvsuka-ichi

(Station for

203i

Miyajima

1 island of
' same name.

209i

Kuba

212|

Otake

215J

IWAKUNI

220

Fuju

225

231',

Obatake

236"

YANAITSU

240

Tabuse

246',

Sbimatji

253i

Kvida)iiatsu

258i

TOKUYAMA

262r!.

F"ukugawa

270]

Tonomi

■lUj

MITAJIEI

( Present ter-
1 minus.

The arrangements on this line
for the comfort of travellers are
superior to those of the Govern-
ment and other private lines. It
alone has had enterprise enough to
provide dining and sleeping-cars.
'I'he run from Kobe to Hiroshima
by express takes 7 J hrs.; from Hiro-
shima on to Mitajiri, 3^ hrs. more.
The first f hr. through Suma, Mai-
ko, and Akashi are delightful ; but
after that, the line leads for 130
miles over an agiicultural plain or
between low hills, partiall)' clad
with scrub pine and bushes. Not
but what there is occasional change
and variety; for instance, the i>retty
little river scene between Wake
and Mantomi, where the valley r.
leads up to the important town of
Tsuyama. At Kasaoka there is a
refreshing peep of the sea, which
again opens out island-studded for
the 12 m. between Matsunaga
and Mihara along the lovely strait
of Onomichi. The passing glimpses
of the castles of Himeji, Okayama,

/Sanyo Railway. Hteamer Voyage.

413

and especially Fukuyama, also af-
ford some Tariety. But take it al-
together, this section of the line is
the least picturesqiie. From Mi-
hara, whose station stantls actually
in the castle grounds, we plunge
inland among the mountains, to
reach an elevated plateau at Shira-
ichi, which is followed to Hachi-
hon-matsu, whence down again
through a very narrow valley to
Kaidaichi and Hiroshima, near the
coast. On the plateau notice the
local peculiarity of brown vitreous
tiles, different from the gi'ey-bliie
tUes of other parts of Japan.

Far and away the most beautiful
portion of the Sanyo line is that be-
tween Hiroshima and Yanaitsu, —
a run of nearly 5U m., during which,
as the train ever and anon comes
out on the coast, the eye feasts on
islands, straits, and headlands, with
the dark blue sea and the pale blue
mountains of Shikoku in the dis-
tance. Ivliyajima (see p. 420) should
be specially noticed. The lofty
island (2,000 ft.) further on near
Obatake is called (^shima. After
another plunge inland, the line
comes out again on the rock-
strewn and pine-clad shore at
Kudamatsu, and again at Toku-
yama. Then over rice-fields and
through cuttings, the peeps of the
sea becoming more frequent and
charming as one nears Jlitajii'i. The
final section, still to be built, on to
Toyo-ura and ShimonoseM at the
western gate of the Inland Sea,
should form a picturesque termina-
tion to the journey. For notices of
the chief towns passed through, —
their sights and their inns, — see
pp. 418-424.

3. — The Inland Sea by
Coasting Steamee.

Delightful as are some of the
views which the Sanyd Railway
journey affords of the Inland Sea,
the charms of the latter can be
infinitely better appreciated from
shipboard. Those whom a general

glance at the scenery contents, or
to whom first-rate accommodation
is a sine qua. non, will do best to
take passage from K5be to Naga-
saki in one of the mail steamers.
The cotu'se lisuaUy followed, and the
cliief points passed, are described
in the following section. Persons
tolerant of less good accommoda-
tion, and desirous to see the Inland
Sea and its shores more thoroughly,
have innumerable small coasting
steamers at their disposal. It is
impossible to give a schedule of
these, as not only do the hours of
sailing and the ports of call vary
according to circumstances, but the
companies themselves frequently
change. The largest and most
isermanent for many years past
has been the Osaka Shosen Kwai-
sha, which owns some good vessels,
with first class [joto) and " extra
first class " (tokuhetsu) accommoda-
tion. Among the ports touched at
are Takamatsu, Tadotsu, Imabari,
]\Iitsu-ga-hama, Tomotsu, Ono-
michi, Takehara, Ondo, Kure, Hiro-
shima, Iwakuni, Yanaitsu, Mm'ozu,
Tokuyama, IVIitajiri, Shimonoseki,
Moji, Beppu, r)ita, and Saganoseki.
The steamers also call at many
places outside the limits of the
Inland Sea, siich as Uwajima and
Kochi in Shikoku ; Hagi, Hamada,
Esaki, and Sakai on the Sea of
Japan ; Hakata and Kagoshima in
Kyushu: TJri, Tsushima, and Fusan.
The starting-point of some of these
steamers is Osaka, but most call in
at Hyogo. The times of the actiial
runs between each of the following
ports by the larger steamers of the
Osaka Shosen Kwaisha are stated
as follows : —

Osalta to : —

Kobe 1 hour.

Takamatsu 5J „

Tadotsu 1^ „

Tomotsu 1% „

Onomichi 1 „

Takehara 1.] „

Setojima Ih „

Kure \ „

414

Route 43. — The Inland Sea.

Ujina (Hiroshima). 1 hour.

Miyajima f „

Iwakuni t| „

Kxiga (in OsMma) 1^ „

YanaitsTi J „

Tokuyama 3 J „

Mitajiri 1 „

Moji 3J „

Notices are generally not issued
till the clay of sailing ; jranctnality
is rarely observed except on the
post-boats ( yu^JMi Teiki-sen). and the
arrangeijaents being quite Japanese,
only those who have had some
experience of the country and its
customs are advised to embark on a
lengthy tour by this means. Slip-
pers should be kept handy, as boots
must be talven off on entering the
cabin, the same as in Japanese
houses and for the same reason.
The native cuisine is generally
pretty good of its land and some-
times suijplemented by a little
meat, but the meals are often
served at startling hours.

The ideal way of seeing the
Inland Sea wovild be to have one's
own yacht ; next best to this, it
might be possible to hire native
craft. Omnibus row-boats touch
at many points not visited even by
the smallest steamers, but foreign-
ers will do best to engage a whole
boat for themselves. During the
long days of spring and summer,
one of the prettiest portions of
the Inland Sea may be compressed
into a brief space of time by
taking rail from Kobe to Onomichi
(5,^ hrs.), whence next morning by
steamer via 'J'akehara, Ondo, Kure,
and Ujina to the island of Miya-
jima, which is reached in daylight ;
next day back to Kobe by train
fi'om Miyajima station on the
mainland, or else proceed west-
ward, also by train.

4. — VOTAGE DOWN THE INLAND SeA

BY Japan Mail Stkamship
Company's Steamee.

In describing the steamer route,
our remarks will be confined to the

points which are immediate to the
track.

Soon after leaving the anchorage
at Kobe, Wada Point is rounded,
the ship is steered close along the
land for Akashi Strait, and at about
1 hr.* is close otf the lighthouse
on the 1., with the town of Akashi
on the r. After passing through
the straits, the track edges a little to
the south to clear a dangerous shoal
on the r., and crosses the Haiima
Nada. The ship is now fairly with-
in the Inland Sea, with the large
islands of Awaji and Shikoka on
the 1. and the first gi'oup of lesser
islands ahead. (For description of
Awaji, see Eoute 44 ; for Shikoku,
see Koutes 47-51.)

At 4 hrs. she enters the first of
the intricate passages. The large
island on the r. is Shodo-shima
(see p. 418), with a rocky, indented
shore and well-cultivated slopes.
The course leads within a mile of
its southern extremity, the coast of
Shikoku being about 3 m. to the 1.
From here the ship turns a little
to the north, and soon after the
castle-town of Takamatsu opens
out on the 1., at the head of a deep
bay. At 5 hrs. Ogishima, with high
cliffs descending straight into 15
fathoms of water, is passed within
a stone's throw on the left. Taka-
matsxi ciistle hero stands out finely.
Old and Teshima on the r. both
produce copper ore, and the surface
worldugs may be observed in pas-
sing. From Ogishima verj' careful
piloting is necessary to carry the
ship safely amongst the numerous
shoals and islets that line both
sides of the track. At G hrs. the
Hghthouse on the S.E. end of Nabe-
shima (also called Yoshima) is pass-
ed, when the castle-towns of
Sakaide and Marugame will be
visible on the 1. At this point the

* Tho expressitin "at 1 hr.," "at 2
hrs," etc , in the descriptiou of this
voyage, signify ■•when the eteauier has
l)een 1 hour out of Kobe," " 2 liuura out of
Kobe." etc., taking 12 knots per hour as
the average siieeJ.

Sfewner Voyage.

415

situation is particularly interesting.
The ship is completely landlocked,
and to the uninitiated there ajipears
to be no way between the rocks
and islets with which the sea is
studded. The ship swings round
point after point, passing villages
near enough to watch the doings of
their inhabitants, and threatens to
swamp some tishing-boat at every
turn. Through all these naiTows
the tides rush with a velocity of
from 4 to 6 knots, adding greatly
to the difficulty of navigation. At
times the vessel can hardly stem
the rush of water, and heels from
side to side as it catches her on
either bow.

After Nabeshima, Ushijima is
passed either N. or S., and at 7 hrs.
the ship will be abreast of Takami-
shima, lofty, with a clump of pines
hiding a temple on the summit.
The shore of Shilvoku now projects
as a long promontory, forming the
eastern boundary of the Bingo
Nada. In the bight to the 1. is the
trefoil-shaped island of Awashima,
whose northern extremity is passed
within a stone's throw. The
glasses will give a good view of
Tadotsu, formerly the residence of
a Daimyo, bearing south. If Ushi-
jima is passed on the north side,
the shores of Honshima and Hiro-
shima will be very close on the
r., and a ciirious rock only 10
ft. above water on the 1. At 7^- hrs.
the first narrows are cleared, and
the ship enters the Bingo Nada.

Fi'om this point there are two
routes leading through the archi-
pelago that separates the Bingo
Nada from the Mishima Nada, —
one to the north, passing north of
the islands and having the shore
of the mainland on the r., one
to the southward of the islands,
having the shore of Shikoku on the
1. The Nortliern Passage, which
is by far the more interesting of the
two, is hunger by 8 m.; and for
2 hrs. the ship winds in and out
of extremely intricate channels,
which at the widest are not more

than 2 m. across, and in some
places not more than 1,500 ft.
The channel is entered at S^ hrs.,
passing close to the south of Yoko-
shima. Then the track tiu-ns to
the north, between Inno-shima, a
large island 1,250 ft. high on the
1., and Mukai-jima on the r., where
the channel is just 100 yds. across.
It opens out a little off Mihara, a
castle-town of some importance,
which is seen on the r. at about

9 hrs. Thence the track turns to
the southward, and narrows again.
At lOi hrs, the ship is off Osalu-
shima r., with a small rocky islet
on the 1., and shortly after the track
joins that of the southern route.

If the Southern Passage be taken,
the shij) passes between two high
islands with bare precipitous sides,
at 8^ hrs. Next a small group of
rocky islets is passed on the 1., and
the town of Imabari on the coast
of Shikoku comes in sight ahead.
At about 10 hrs. the track turns
sharp to the northward, between
Oshima on the r., and Shikoku on
the 1. These narrows are particu-
larly interesting, especially if the
tide hajjpens to be runniag strong-
ly in the opposite direction. At the
narrowest part, less than 100 yds.
wide, the vessel swerves from side
to side. ' Hard-a-port ! ' and ' Hard-
a-starboard!' are the continual cries.
If the vessel has not sufBcient
speed, she may be turned right
round. Indeed, one steaming even

10 knots has been known to be
obliged to go back and wait for a
fair tide, and large swirls have
sometimes been observed measur-
ing 6 ft. across and 10 ft. deep.
After two or three miles in a
northerly direction, the track turns
to the westward. Here the ship is
again completely landlocked, the
moimtainous islands of Oshima
and Omi-shima on the r., ShUcoku
on the 1., and Osaki-shima ahead
closing in the prospect on all sides.
But after passing the extreme
northern point of the province of

41G

Route 49. — Tile Inland Sea.

lyo, with its wliite outlying rocks,
the view opens oixt, and at 11 hrs.
the track by the northern passage
is joined.

The course now tiirns southward
again along the shore of Shikoku,
where the mountain ranges are
well-wooded, and the highest peaks
tipped with snow as early as
December. At 12 hrs. the coast of
Shikoku is again approached -within
2 m. A little later, the ship
threads her way through another
narrow passage between Gogoshima
on the 1. with a white light, and
Mutsiiki and Nakashima on the
right. Just behind Gogoshima lies
Mitsu-ga-hama, one of the chief
ports of the province of lyo. Mu-
tsuki is passed close enough to dis-
tingixish the workings from which
the material for manufacturing
porcelain is obtained. Leaving Go-
goshima behind, another small is-
land comes in sight viath a light-
house, whose light is visible 20
m. Then the ship is fairly in
the Ljo Nada, and at 13 hrs. is
nearly up to Yurishima, a curious
double island consisting of two hills
respectively 4.00 ft. and 200 ft. high
joined by a narrow sand-bank.
This island may be passed on either
side. Eight miles beyond it is
another steej) island, and at 14^- hrs.
the ship passes quite close to Ya-
shima, 500 ft. high. At this point the
Buwjo (Jhannel opens to the south-
warcl, and the track turns a little to
the north, passing Uwashima at
some distance and Himejima with-
in a few miles. From here the
track Ues through the Swwo Naxla,
midway between Kyushu and the
mranland, and, being unrelieved by
smaller islands, possesses no
features of special interest. At 18
hrs. a red buoy marking the edge of
the Motoyama spit is passed on
the r., and the track tiurns north
for Shimonoseki. Here the land
draws together on both sides, form-
ing the Straits of Shimonoseki,
which vary from 4 m. to 1 m. in
width, and are further nan-owed by

miiaerous shoals and sand-banks.
At 1!) hrs. the ship rounds Isald on
the 1., and threads her way through
the shallows past the town of Shi-
monoseki r., with Moji 1. The
steamer track skirts the flat shore,
winds round the south of Hiko-
shima, turns to the north-west, and
of then due north towards the island
Kokuren. This is known to pilots
as the " south passage ". There
are two others, — a middle one, safe
only for quite small steamers, and
a northern, the deepest of all,
which the "Empress" boats take.
The whole channel is well-lighted
and marked; but the strong tides
which rush through render it even
more difficult to navigate safely
than any other part of the Inland
Sea. Some of the Nippon Y'^usen
Kwaisha steamers stop off Shimo-
noseki for an hour or so, to land
mails, etc. Not counting this
stoppage, the ship will be off Koku-
ren and fairly through the Inland
Sea at 20 hrs.

As almost all travellers go on to
Nagasaki, the description of the
route is continued on to that port.

From Rokuren the track turns
west, close past Shiroshima ; then
gradually south. At 22 hrs. the
ship is about 1 m. off Koshime-no-
Osliima ("Wilson's Island). The
coast of Kyushu (see Rte. 57) now
extends southward on the 1. —
bold, rugged, and deeply indented,
with numerous harbours, outlying
islands, and a backgi'ound of lofty
mountains. At 24 hrs. the deso-
late, rocky islet of Eboshi-jima
(Hat Island), with its lighthouse,
is close at hand, due south of
which, on the shores of a deep bay,
he the coal-fields of Karat su, and
the district where the celebrated
Hizen porcelain is manufactm-ed.
Eight miles away on the r. is the
large island of Iki, with several
small rocky islets nearer in the
same direction.

Iki is mostly tablis-land, from 500 to 700
ft. high, with scant timber and poor soil.
The chief villuge is Gouourii on the S. W.

Steamer Voyage.

417

aide, possessing a fair anchorage. Small
steamers run between tliis place and
Yobuko in Hizen, where the Japan-Korea
cable is landed.

From Eboshi-jima the track turns
gradually to the south, passing
Kagara-shima and Madara-shiuia.
At 28 hrs. the N. E. end of Hirado
is close at hand, tind Doshima 1 m.
on the 1. Hirado is 17J m. long,
narrow and hilly, trending N. N. E.
and S.S.W., the highest point being
1,792 ft.

Hirado, called Fiiando by the .ild mar-
iners, had great importance in the 16th
and 17th centuries, when it served as an
emporium of trade between Japan and
foreign countries. Besides the Dutch
tactory. there was also an English one,
which, in the year ICll, was in charge of
one Captain Richard Cock (or Cocks). The
names of Will Adams (see p. lOu), Captain
John Saris, ajid other adventurers are all
connected with this spot where now
scarcely a trace of Europeauisation re-
mains. The Daimyo's castle, too, is in
ruins, nothing standing but a wall which
commands a lovely view. Hirado gives
its name to a celebrated variety of blue
porcelain.

Hirado is separated from Kyii-
shu by a narrow channel of -^ m.,
which is in effect nari'owed to a
few yards by rocks, and is called
Spex Straits. Steamers sometimes
take this course, if tide and wea-
ther are perfectly favourable; but
generally they keejj along the W.
shore of Hirado, and pass between
it and Ikutsiiki-shima by what is
known to seamen as the Obree
Channel, only 2 cables wide. Naka-
no-shima, an islet rising straight
out of the water off the S.W. end of
Hirado, is closely skirted, and the
course changed to S. E. at 29^ hrs.
Ho-age (Sail Rock) is 1 m. on the
1., and the whole group of the
(xoto Islands (see Route 64) in
the distance on the r. Shortly
after Ho-age, and on the same side,
is seen a beacon painted red and
white, to mark a dangerous sunken
rock. At 30 hrs. the islets of Odate
and Kodate are on the r., and
Mitoko on the 1. Off the south-
east of the latter is a small flat islet
with pine-trees. A httle south

again, on the mainland of Kyu-
shu, is a remarkable conical hill,
with a clump of trees on the sum-
mit closely resembling a field-
oificer's cocked hat and plume.
Next we pass Matsushima, which is
of considerable size and partly
covered with pine-trees, whence
its name. It is teixaced for culti-
vation to the very summit, and has
a village half-way up its slope.
This point passed, the track takes
a sharp turn to the S. and back to
S.E., leaving Ikeshima and Hikishir
ma on the r. One mile further
on a good view is obtained of
a remarkable arched rock standing
straight up out of the water to the
N.W. From here Iwoshima lies
straight ahead, with the hghthouse
just visible. To the r. of the
lighthouse is Takashima, noted for
its coal-mines. At 31 hrs. the ship
is midway between Iwoshima and
the mainland, and soon after en-
ters a cluster of islets off the
mouth of Nagasaki harbour.
Rounding Paijpenberg, the ship
turns sharp to the 1. into the
harbour, and at 32 hrs. is generally
at anchor.

The chief distances of the run
through the Inland Sea from K5be
to Nagasaki, as taken by the Nip-
pon Yusen Kwaisha steamers, are
as follows : —

KOBE to :— lliles.

Hyogo Point 2

Akashi Straits 12

Nabeshima 73

Ushijima 75^

Nakashima 143

Yurishima 154

Yashima 175

Himejima 198

SHIMONOSEKI 239

Rokuien 248

Shiroshinia 257

Koshime-no-Oshima 275

Eboshi-jima 300

Obree Channel 334

Naka-no-shima 346

Arched Rock 371

NAGviSAKI 387

418

Routii 43. — 77(fi Inland Sra.

5. — Places op Intekest on and

NEAR THE NoRTHEEN ShOEB

OF THE Inland Sea.

Himeji (see p. 318).

Okayama (Inns, *Miyosliino,
near railway station ; Jiynsba),
capital of the prefecture of the
same name and of the province of
Bizen, lies '2-V ri inland from its
port, Samba7i (poor accommoda-
tion), along an excellent jinrikisha
road. No portion of this coast
•shows more clearly the rapid en-
croachment of the land on the sea,
and a scheme has even been mooted
for draining the large bay of Kojima-
wan. The Cnsile has now been re-
stored to its former lord, the
Daimyo Ilceda, and is shown for a
small fee. The Koraku-En Garden,
celebrated throiighont Japan, de-
serves its repiitation, — not being a
semi-Enropeanised bit of formalism
and bad taste, like the " pviblic
gardens " of so many modern
Japanese cities, but the spacious
and charming pleasaunce of the
lords of the castle close to which it
lies. There are biidges, hills, lakes,
cherry-trees, plum-trees, wistarias,
maples, palmettos, and a few tame
cranes, one of which is believed
to be over two hundred years
old ; also summer-houses which
may be hired of the custodian for
those picnic parties in which the
Japanese take such delight. Fancy
matting (hnnn-mushiro) is a local
specialty.

[Shodo-sliima, the most con-
siderable island in the Inland
Sea, hes IJ hr. (plus J hr. in
small boat) by steamer from
iSamhan ; also 1 hr. by steamer
from TakamatNU in Shikoku, —
lovely scenery throughout the
passage. The boats call daily
bound both ways, _also con-
necting with Kobe, Osaka, and
Tadotsu. The two chief towns,
Tonosho and Fuchizaki, are only
separated by a bridge over
some salt-pans, where the sea
till recent years divided the is-

land into two unequal parts.
Visitors will best consult their
convenience by staying at the
steamer agency (Funa-donya)
at the landing-place. — Large
supplies of granite come from
the pine-clad mountains of
this picturet:qiie island, whose
lower slopes are admirably
cultivated. The chief qiaaiTies
are on the north coast. A
delightful day's excursion,
partly by jiurikisha, partly on
foot, may be made to the
rocks of Kanknke, a sort of
Haruna-san on a larger scale,
with the addition of a glorious
view seawards. It is best at the
time of the autumn tints. The
waterfall of Nishi-no-iaki, in
the same direction, is preferably
taken as a separate walk. The
caix of Benten at G5to, near
the S.W. extremity of the is-
land, is another local curiosity,
and ranks among the Eighty-
eight Holy Places of Shodo-
shima. Hachiman, the god of
war, is specially revered by the
islanders. A hill just OTitside
Tonosho, on which stands one
of his many temples, is jiartly
cut away in tiers, whence
crowds witness the great annual
festival on the 15th day of the
8th moon, old style.]
Fukuyama {Inn, Yoshino
Kwadan, at station), capital of the
province of Bingo, was the seat
of a Daimyo, whose castle, in an
iinusually good state of j)reserva-
tion, is well seen from the rail-
way. No permit being required,
travellers luight stop over a train
to see it. The temple of Myd-o-
in possesses some art treasures.
This province produces the upper
covering or outside layers {Bingo-
omote) of the ordinary house mats
which are used all over Japan.
Whole lields planted with the rushes
for making them are passed by.
Tomotsu {Inn, Maru-tsune),

So-called, it is said, because the Empress
Jiogo, laudiug there after her Korean ex-

Tomotsu to ffiroskifna.

419

peditioD, presented the tnmo, or leathern
wrist-guard, of her bow to the god of that
port (tsu).

'2J ri S. of Fukuyama by a good
but malodorous jinrildsha road, has
a small harbour protected by piers,
and manufactures anchors for the
whole Inland Sea district, as weU
as nine Mnds of liqueur, — one
flavoured with plum-blossom, an-
other with chrysanthemums, a third
effectual in warding off old age,
etc., etc. There are two or three
fine temples, and the surrounding
scenery is delightful. Half-a-day
may be well spent in going by boat
W. along the cliff-bound coast to
the little shrine of Kwannon at
Abuio, perched on a rock that juts
into the sea, and back via Sensui-
jima, where there is sea-bathing.

Curious cars of straw surmount-
ed by the tai-Ush, lobster, and bam-
boo are carried round the town on
certain festival days and then burnt.

Onomichi {Inns; *Hamakichi,
Kakusui-kw'an) has unusiially plen-
tiful steam communication, and is
a prosperovis, bustling place,
stretching along the shore of a long
narrow strait which looks Uke a
winding river. The shore is lined
with godowns. Onomichi is a city
of naiTow lanes and of fine, though
decaying temples, of which the two
best are Senkoji and Saikokuji.
Flights of steps that seem en(^lless
lead up to the former, which stands
near the top of a very steep hill.
Huge granite blocks jvit out quaint-
ly from the soil, helping to form a
picture at once weird and beautiful.
The view also is fine, a prominent
feature being the island of Mukai-
jima, or Shichi-ri-ga-shima, plaster-
ed up — if one may iise such a term
— ^against the mainland, and thus
forming the river-like harbour.
Saikokuji, a branch of the great
monastery of Koya-san, is very
stately with its big stone walls.
Indeed, the temple architecture of
all this district derives powerful aid
from the granite of the shores of
the Inland Sea.

Miliara {Inn, Go-un-ro) posses-
ses the remains of a Daimyo's
castle. From here westwards, the
northern shore of the Inland Sea
forms a striking contrast to the
wooded and smiling coasts of Shi-
koku and Kyushu that lie opijosite.
It is arid and infertile, and the hills
have great bare patches like a
beggar's sMn showing through his
tatters.

Takehara {Inn, Fukui) is a
pretty harbour lying amidst high
hills. The houses stand on the
beach. Here the famous scholar
Eai Sanyo (see p. 82) was born. The
coasting steamers pass through the
extraordinarily narrow Strait of
Ondo, in the middle of which stands
a large lantern on a stone base, and
then reach

According to legend, the passage had
become blocked up by the hills falling in
on either side. So Kiyomori (see p. 76)
cut it afresh ; but as day was waning, he
commanded the sun to stand still, which
it did till the completion of the work.
But the sun revenged itself for this insult
by the proud tyrant's death, and this is
his funeral pile standing in the waves.

Kure {Inns, Miyoshi, in Washo-
machi; Hdraisha, at the actual
port, 25 cho distant), an important
and continually growing naval
station, snugly situated at the base
of cultivated hills. No admission
to the arsenal without permit fi-om
the Ministry of Marine. 1^ ri dis-
tant hes the island of Etajima,
where stands the Imperial NaoaL
College, an admirably conducted in-
stitution for the training of cadets.

Hiroshima {Inns, * Kikkawa,
Europ. food, with branch at station ;
Naganuma), capital of the province
of Aki and seat of a prefecture,
stands at the mouth of the Otagawa,
in a fine position protected by hills
from the northern blasts.

Before the establishment of the Sho-
gunate in the 12th century, Hiroshima be-
longed to Kiyomori, the powerful and un-
scru^iulous head of the Taira family.
At the beginning of the 17th century,
the tief passed into the hands of the Asano
family, who retained it tiU the mediatisa-

420

Route 43. — The Inland Sea.

tion of the Daimyos in 1871. The Asanos
■were ^ften spoken of as the Princes of
Gev>hu, Geidbu or Aki beiug the name
of the province in which Hiroshima lies.
During great part of the China-Japan
war of 1894-.5 the Emperor took up his
residence in the castle of Hiroshima, in
order, as it would seem, to be nearer the
scene of action.

The approach to Hiroshima by
sea is noted for its beauty. The
little port of Ujina, distant 3J m.,
is connected with the city by
railway. Hiroshima is a brisk and
busy place, the most important
city west of Kobe. It is a centre
for dealers in lacqner, bronze,
and most other kinds of artistic
work. The oysters of the neigh-
bouring sea enjoy much favour.

The sights of Hiroshima can
be done by jinrikisha in 1 hr.
The prettiest is the landscape
garden of the Asano family, called
Sentei, 12 cho from the station.
Excepting the five-storied keep
(tens/m), little now remains of the
old Castle (no admission) but the
space which it and its dependent
buildings once occupied. Parts
of this very extensive space are
now used as parade grounds for the
garrison. Close to the castle, and
only 8 cho from the station, lies
the Park (Koen), which affords
a place of recreation to the citi-
zens. It contains some temples
called Nigi-tsu-Jinja, dedicated to
the ancestors of the Asano family,
whose crest of two hawks' feath-
ers crossed is commemorated,
not only on the lanterns and other
surrounding objects, but in the
name of Futa-ba-yama, the hill
rising immediately behind. Some
tine tea-houses stand on it, .5 cfio
below the top, which affords a beau-
tiful view. In the plain below lies
Hii'oshima, intersected by the five
arms of the Otagawa ; to the 1. is
the sea ; to the r. rises a conical-
shaped hill called Ald-no-Fuji,
and further to the r. Hiji-yama ;
in front is the long road running
down towards the pine-clad islet
in the harbour ; beyond all spreads

the sea, glittering amidst rocky
islands, chief of which is Miyajima
with its feathery peaks ; on the
dim horizon are the Suwo hills.
The annual festival at i^'uii-tsu-
Jinja is held on the 15th day of
the 9th moon, old style.

Miyajima (Inns, *Haku-un-d5,
Iwaso, and many others). As
already indicated on p. 413, this
lovely island can be reached by
coasting steamer from various In-
land Sea ports. The more usual way
now is to take ti-ain to Miyajima
station on the Sanyo line, 1 hr.
west of Hiroshima, whence steam
ferry in } hr. Ferry close to station.
Should the train hours from Hii'o-
shima not suit, one may go by
excellent jinrikisha road with de-
lightful scenery ail the way, -ii ri
(11 m.), to Ajina (do not confound
this with Ujina, the port of Hiro-
shima). Here there is another
shghtly longer ferry, say 40 min.
by row-boat. The objective point
in either case is the vill. that has
grown up around the temple.

Miyajima, also called Itsuku-
shima, is a sacred island, and one
of the San-kei, or " Three Chief
Sights," of Japan in native es-
timation. It rises to a height of
about 1,800 ft., and is very rocky
and thickly wooded. Many small
but lovely valleys trend down to
the sea ; and in these, among
gi'oves of maple-trees, nestle the
inns and tea-houses for pilgrims
and the dwelhngs of the fishermen
and image-carvers, who, with the
priests and innkeepers, make up a
population of some three tho^^sand.
Miyajima is a charming siunmer
resort, the temperature being never
unbearably high, the sea and fresh-
water bathing excellent, and the
walks numerous. The abundance
of conifers, the disintegrated
granite soil, and the total absence
of agriculture, combine to keep the
air singularly pure and the water
limpid. A number of deer still
linger on the island, and feed out
of the hands of the passers-by.

Miyajima.

421

Miyajima is dedicated to three Shinto
goddesses, daughters of Susa-no-o, from
the eldest of whom, named Ichiki-shima-
Hime or Itsukushima-Hime, the alter-
native name of the island is fabled to be
derived. According to tradition, the first

erection of a temple on the present site
dates from the I'eign of the Empress Suiko
(A.D. 593 — C28) : but all the early archives
of Miyajima were lost in a great lire which
occurred in 1548, and nothing certain can
be learnt from other sources regarding its

vicissitudes before the 12th century. At
that time Kiyomori, who practically
ruled the empire, i-estored it in such style
as to gain for it the reputation of the most
magnificent structure in Western Japan.
Several Mikados, the Ashikaga Sho-
guns, and the great Daimyos of Geishii,
Choshu, and other neighbouring prov-
inces were counted among the bene-
factors of the place and worshippers at
the shrine. Here, as elsewhere, the Bud-
dhist priests were compelled to withdraw
on the "purification " of the Ryobu Shin-
to shrines in 1871, when several of the
buildings were pulled down. Several
others were accidentally burnt in 1887, but
the rest are now sufficiently cared for.

An ancient religious rule forbade all
births and deaths on the island. Should
a birth unexpectedly take place, it is still
usual to send the woman away to the
mainland for thirty days ; and though
patients in extremis are no lonaer removed,
all corpses are at once sent acro.ss_the
strait for interment at the village of Ono,
where likewise the chief mourners remain
during fifty days for ceremonial purifica-
tion. No dogs are allowed on the island.

422

Boule 43. — Tlie Inland Sea.

The temple of iliyajima enjoys
great celebrity. The torii in front
of it, which stands in the sea, is a
favourite motive of Japanese art ;
and the temple itself, being partly
built out over the sea on piles, ap-
pears at high tide to float upon the
surface of the water. This effect is
of course maiTed when the tide
goes out. A characteristic feature
of the temple is its gallery (kicairo)
648 ft. long, hung with ex-votos.
Many of these are old pictures by
famous artists ; but even so sacred
a shrine as JEyajima has not
altogether escaped modernisation,
as is attested, inter alia, by hideous
daubs in oil of the China War.
Notice also a number of grotesque
wood-carvings. The annual fes-
tival is celebrated on the 17th day
of the 6th moon, old style. By
payment of a few yen one may get
all the temple lanterns lighted, pro-
ducing a very pretty effect, which
should be viewed from the water.
The new buildings behind contain
various art treasures.

The great unpainted Hall of a
Thousand Mats (Sen-jo-jikl), stand-
ing on an eminence to the r. of the
temple on leaving, is said to have
been built by Hideyoshi out of the
wood of a single camphor-tree. In
any case, it served as his council
chamber on the occasion of the
great expedition against Korea at
the end of the sixteenth century.
Soldiers were again quartered there
in 1894 on the way to conquer
{meshi-toru) China, and some of
them punningly hung lap on the
piUars some ladles of the sort com-
monly used for serving rice (meshi
toru). The fashion spread even
among civilians, who follow it for
luck, till now the place wears the
most singular and uncomely aspect,
from being plastered all over with
ladles up to the very ceiling. Close
to the Thousand Mat Hall stands
a five-storied pagoda. A huge stone
tm-ii is in course of construction on
the shore.

Those with time on hand may

climb up 18 cho to the Oku-no-in, at
the top of one of the chief peaks
(2 hrs. vvill suffice). But no longer
are any great religious buildings
left there, nor is the sacred fire
which was lighted by Kob5 Dpvishi
and has never since been suffered
to go out, maintained nowadays
with any pomp. Like several
other places in Japan, Miyajima has
its " seven wonders " {nana-fushigi),
mostly insignificant.

Shin-Minato [Inn, Fukuoka) is
the port for Iwakuni, fi-om which
it is 1 Ti 26 chd (4i\ m.) distant by
an excellent jinrilasha road.

Iwakuni {Inn, *Kome-hei) is a
busthng place, formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyo called Kikkawa.
Where his castle stood, there is
now a temple dedicated to Kat5
Kiyomasa and a park adorned with
splendid trees of many species.
The railway station hes incon-
veniently distant at the viU. of
Muronoki, about 40 niin. by jin-
riMsha. Iwakuni is notetl tor its
manufactiire of sUk, paper, cotton,
mats, and mosquito-nets. The
great bridge called Kintai-kyo, lit.
" bridge of the damask girdle,"
spanning the Nishiki-gawa, is
famed throughout the length and
breadth of Japan. It is buUt in
five arches, measures about 150
yds. in length, and some of the
stones in the piers are bound
together with load. The former
custom was to repair thoroughly
one of the arches every five years,
so that once in twenty-five years
the whole structure was renewed.
Figs of excellent quahty abound
in this neighbourhood.

A long stretch of coast south of
Iwakuni towards Obatake and
Yanai is dyked, to carry both the
excellent highway and the railway.

Yanai (Inns, HakJd, Kyoha-
kwan), often called Yanaitsu, that
is, the " port of Yanai," is ad-
mirably protected, the town ly-
ing on the S.W. slope of Kotoishi-
yama (2,190 ft. high), and com-

Yanai to Toyo-ura.

423

manding glorious views of the
large and lofty island of Oshima.
The railway has barely room to
pass between this mountain and
the sea.

Tokuyama {Tnn, Kashibe).

Mitajiri [Inn at station, but
Eashiwagi on the mole is better)
lies 18 cho from its port, — a port
lovely to the eye with its lines of
hills and the smoke lazily rising
from its salt-pans, but not very
good for steamers, for which reason
most passengers from the south,
especially in bad weather, prefer to
continue on to Tokuyama, and take
the train there, rather than here at
the actual terminus. A capital jin-
rildsha road leads from Mitajiri to
the busy town of

Miyaichi (Miyaichi Hotel), 31
cho, which boasts a celebrated
Temple of Tenjin, with grounds
prettily laid out on a hillside.
Hence it is 4 n 22 cho more, or 13|-
m. altogether, from IVIitajiri over
the partly tunnelled hill called
Sabayama to

Yamaguchi (Inns, Sakata-ya,
Fujimura), capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name and of
the province of Suwo. The hot
springs of Yuda in the S.W. subiirb
of the town possess some local
fame; but imprisoned as it is
within hills mostly bare, bleak in
winter and glaring in summer,
Yamaguchi has notliing to detain
the visitor except its jnous memo-
ries.

Yamaguchi was an iinportant Cliristian
centre during the latter half of the 16th
century, the mission there having been
founded by St. Francis Xavier himself.
(See Sir Ernest Satow's elaborate paper
on the •' Vicissitudes of the Church at
Yamaguchi from 1550 to loSiJ " in Vol.
VII. of the Transactions of the Asiatic
Society of Japan.) More recently the noble
hou.se of Choshu, which had its seat here,
became a very powerful factor in Japa-
nese politics. Since the Revolution, the
samurai of Choshu have divided with that
of Satsuma the chief direction of public
affairs. The peasautr.v of the Yamaguchi
prefecture furnish a large proiiortion of
the emigrants who have been sent to
Hawaii during the last few years.

Toyo-ura, sometimes oilled
Chofu ( Inn, Yoshida-ya).

Here, according to tradition, is the
burial-place of Chii-ai Tenno, a Mitado
who is said to have ruled Japan at the
end of the 2nd century of our era. His
consort. Jingo Kogo, had a revelation
from Heaven one day, while her husband
was playing on the lute, that there existed
to the westward a fair land, dazzling with
gold and silver, — the land of Korea which
the Japanese sovereign was divinely com-
manded to conquer and add to hi.s do-
mains. But Chii-ai would not believe the
message. "If," said he, "one ascend to
a high place and look westward, no laud
is to be seen. There is only the great
sea; your deities are lying deities." For
this his disbelief and disobedience, he
was smitten by the gods with sudden
sickness and death, and his consort was
left to carry out the expedition (see \). 75).

At Toyo-ura itself there is little
to see ; but the way on (2 ri) to
Shimonoseki is beautiful. Just
before getting to the narrovv's that
afterwards open out to form Shimo-
noseki harbour, one passes Dan-no-
ura, a stretch or reach whose naiue
is familiar to every student of
Japanese history.

It was the scene of the greatest naval
battle in the annals of Jap;in, when the
Taira, hitherto all-powerful, received their
death-blow from the rival house of
Minanioto headed by the youug hero
Yoshitsune. The Taira forces v.^ere
encumbered by the presence of numerous
women and cliildreu, among whom were
the widow aud daughter of Ki\ omori, —
the former a nun, the latter the Empress-
Dowager Kernel Mon-in, witli her child,
the Emperor Antoku, then only si.x years
old. When his grand uiothei' saw that all
was lost, she clasped the young monarch
in her arms, and despite the entreaties of
her daughter, leapt into the sea where
both were drowned. This was In A.D,
1185.

Across the strait lies Tano-ura,
whence eighteen foreign men-of-
war poured their shot and shell
upon the Japanese batteries in
what is known as the "Shimonoseki
Affair." The chief battery of the
Daimyo of Choshii was planted on a
little sandy spit below the road-
way on the 1., at the vill. of Maeda.

The Shimonoseki A&air arose out of an
attempt <.in the part of the Daimyo of Cho-
shu, who was at that time a semi-inde-

424

Route 44. — Tlie Island of Awaji.

pendent ruler, to close the straits leading
into the Inland Sea. Two American
ships, a French ship, and a Dntch ship
•were iired on in June and July, 1863, and
several men killed. Failing to obtain
satisfaction from the Shogun's govern-
ment, the i-epresentatives of the three
powers concerned, together with the
British representative, who deemed it
essential for all the Western powers to
make common cause in their dealings
with the Japan of those days, sent a
combined fleet to bombard Shimonoseki.
Thi.s was done on the 5th and 0th Sep-
tember, 1863. The victors furthermore
claimed an indemnity of $3,000,000, on
account of the expense to which they —
and more especially Great Britain — had
been put by the naval and military
display required to enforce the observ-
ance of the existing treaties. No incident
in the dealings of the West with Japan
has met with so much adverse criticism.
Sever.al years later, the United States
government, conscience-stricken, repaid
their portion of the indemnity — at least
they repaid the principal, but not the
interest. The other recipients have not
shown this modicum of generosity.

Iq 1895 Shimonoseki became again
notorious through the attempt by a
Japanese swashbuckler on the life of the
aged Chinese statesman, Li Huog Chang,
who had come over to treat for ijeace
after the war.

Shimonoseki, also called Aka-
ma-ga-seki, or more often Sakan
(Inns, * DaiMchi, * Fiijino, Europ.
food), is a considerable shipping
centre, lying 4 m. from the W.
entrance of the strait of Shimo-
noseki, which separates tlie Main
Island from Kyfishti. The town
consists almost entirely of a single
street, about 2 m. in length. The
chief products are tobacco and
cutlery. Shimonoseki and

Moji [Inns, *Ishida-ya, Europ.
accommodation and food; Kawa-u),
a new town on the Kytishu side,
form practically but one port,
though business is hampered by
the fact of the two places belong-
ing to different prefectures, each
with its separate custom-house.
Both sides of the strait have
recently been fortified (there are
no less than seven forts) as a
precaution against further foreign
attacks. The prosperity of Moji
dates only from the year 1891, when
it v,-as selected as the northern

terminus of the Kyushu Railway.
Owing to the extreme swiftness of
the tides on the Shimonoseki side,
the mail steamers, even when ad-
vertised for Shimonoseki, anchor
off Moji. The presence of coal near
this latter jJace is a further induce-
ment, and has already made it a
dangeroiis rival to Nagasaki. The
distance across the strait is only 1
mile, and steam-launches ply every
20 min. Shimonoseki enjoys an
excellent climate at all times of the
year, o\ving to its southern frontage
with hills behind, admitting the
summer breezes and protecting it
fi'om northerly winter blasts. Moji,
which faces N.W., is less favoured
in this respect.

ROUTE 44.

The Island of Awaji.

The Island of Awaji, situated
at the eastern entrance of the
Inland Sea, can be easily reached
by small daily steamer fi'om Kobe
(Hyogo) in 2 hrs. to Kariya, which
is the first port touched at. The
steamer, after calling at Kariya,
continues on to Shiziild, 40 min.,
and to Sumoto, the capital, 40 min.
more. From spring to autmnn
another steamer service connects
Minato and the villages of the West
Coast with Akashi.

There is also a steam f eiTy service
between Akashi and Iwaya at the
jS". extremity of the island, and
another at the S. end between
Fukura and Muya on the way to
Tokusliima in Shikoku.

The chief distances on the island
are as follows : —

General Information.

425

East Coast— Bi Cho M.

Kariya to ShiziiM .... 3 '25 9

Shiznki to Sumoto ... 2 33 7J

Sumoto to Yura 2 9 5^

Southern Irilaiwl Road —

Smnoto toHirota .... 1 29 4^

Hirota to Fukura 3 28 9^

(Or straight across from

Shizuki to Fukura,

without going round

by Sumoto) 4 — 9^-

Western Inland Road —

Fukura to Koenami... 2 10 5J

Koenami to Minami-

dani 3 22 S|

Minami-dani to Gunge3 — 7^
(Or preferably from

Fukura to Cxunge via

Minato and the West

Coast)
West Coast —

Gunge to Tsukue .... 3 21 8|

Tsukue to Iwaya 2 29 6f

Iwaya* to Kariya 2 20 Ol-

Distances by Sea from Awaji

to the Mainlaml —
Iwaya to Akashi in Ha-

rima 1 23 4

Yura to Kada in Kishti 2 30 7
Fukura to Muya in Awa

(in the Island of Shi-

koku) 3 2 Ih

A trip to Awaji is much to
be recommended during spring
and autumn, or in mild winter
weather, the climate being moder-
ately warm, the scenery pictur-
esque, and the roads fairly good.
JinriMshas can be obtained almost
everywhere. The best inns are
those at Sumoto (Nabeto and Ku-
waji), Shizuki (Hirano-ya), Fukura
(Izu-man), and Gnnge (SMnkuma).
There is also fair accommodation
at Yura (Tanaka-ya) and at Iwaya.
The other inns are rather poor, but
every village affords accommoda-
tion of some sort. The tourist who
wishes to explore the island thor-
oughly, is recommended to land

♦Properly speaking, Iwaya is at the
N.E. extremity of the Island. But this
division of the roads is practically the
more convenient.

at Kariya, and make the round in
the order described below. This
will take 3 or 4 days, according as
steamer hours, weather, etc., may
fit in. Persons pressed for time
can obtain a ghmpse of the prettiest
part of the scenery, which lies on
the E. coast, by taking steamer
from Kobe to Sumoto, and return-
ing next morning.

The Island of Awaji is mentioned in the
earliest Japanese legends as the first
result of the marriage of the creator and
creatress, Izanagi and Izanami, when
they gave birth to the various islands
of the Japanese archipelago. It is also
related that in very ancient times the
water for the Imperial Household was
brought over from Awaji in boats ; and
the beauties of the harbour of Yura have
been sung by poets from time immemori-
al. Coming down to historical days, the
unfortunate Empeior Junnin was exiled
here in A.D. 764, having been deposed by
his predecessor, the Empress Koken,
a Japanese Messalina, who added to
her other excesses a wild desire for
Imperial power which was not properly
hers, and who, having once abdicated
in favour of Junnin, wished to reascend
the throne. Junnin endeavoured to es-
cape from Awaji, but died there in the
following year, probably a victim to
assassination. During the Middle Ages,
the lordship of the island and of different
portions of it passed successively into the
hands of several feudal chiefs, and finally
of the Hachisuka family and of their
dependants, the Inada. The whole is-
land now forms part of the prefecture
of Hyogo. The castle of Sumoto, which
town has long been considered the capi-
tal, was constructed in the middle of
the 16th century.

The scene as the steamer ap-
proaches Kariya is most pictur-
esque,— dehghtful little coves and
peaceful nooks, pine-trees on the
strand, small valleys stretching up
towards verdure-clad hills, and in
the distance the hazy outline of
Senzan, one of the highest hills
on the island (1,550 ft.) and of the
lofty land beyond. This kind of
scenery, ever varied in its details,
continues all along the E. coast to
Sumoto and Yura ; and jinrikishas
bowl rapidly over the weU-kept
road. It will generally be found
best to spend the first night at
Sumoto. Those having another

426

Route 4:4:. — 27ie Island of Awaji.

day to spare may turn off inland
shortly after leaving Shizuki, and go
to Sumoto via the top of Senzan.
Jinrildshas can be engaged as far
as Fuiaisu-ishi, 1 ri 24 cho ; but it
will probably be more satisfactory
to walk the whole way, taking
some 6 hours. The country is
everywhere pretty. The actual
ascent is aboiit 1 ri in length.
Half-way up stands the temple of
Kbshinji, which commands a fine
view in the direction of K5be.
Thence to the top the path lies
through a wood of cherry-trees,
oaks, lirs, etc., some of the firs pre-
senting a very curious appearance,
the soil ha\'ing crumbled away
from their roots, so as to leave the
latter poised high above the level
of the surrounding ground. From
the summit of Senzan itself there
is but little view, owing to the trees
which crown the mountain, and
which, from most jjarts of the is-
land, give it a peculiar square-
topped appearance. The temple on
the summit is called ^enkoji. It
has a solid modern gate and belfry;
but the Hondo, or main edifice,
and the three-storied pagoda are
old.

Its foundation is said to date from A.D.
901, when a hunter named Chuda, having
shot at and hit a stag (another virsion
says a boar), discovered that it waa in
reality an incai nation of the merciful
divinity Kvi'annon whom he had thus
sacriIc^;iously iujured. He thereupon
assumed tlie garb of a Buddhist monk
and the Buddhist name of Jakunin, and
rai.sed a shrine to Kwannon on the spot
where the incident had occurred.

The way down on the side to-
wards Sumoto brings that town
in sight to the 1., with Kishu and
the islets of the Kii Channel be-
yond it, while to the r. are the
mountains of Awa in Shikoku.
From the base of Senzan to the
Aiya waterfall, and thence to Su-
moto, the path leads mostly across
a fertile plain. Those not desirous
of visiting the fall, which, though a
pretty place for a picnic, is by
no means extraordinary, can go

straight to Sumoto from the base of
Senzan, the distance being IJ ri.

The former castle of Sumoto no
longer exists, and in its grounds a
coiu-t -house and a prison have been
erected. The production for which
Sumoto is chiefly noted is a sort of
marmalade made out of an excel-
lent variety of orange resembling
the Seville orange, and called J:\aru-
to mikan. It is sold in boxes with
another pleasant sweetmeat com-
posed of acorns, cinnamon, and
sugar ; and the two sweetmeats
together are known by the name
ol uki-hashi, or " floating bridge,"
in allusion to the legend of Izanagi
and Izanami mentioned below. A
third preserve special to Sumoto
is the hhm-no-ne, or " sound of the
lute," which is made of plums.
Foreigners will perhaps be inclined
to think that it stands to the palate
in somewhat the same relation as
Japanese music does to the ear.
The potteries of Sumoto deserve a
visit. A spare day might pleas-
urably be devoted to the ascent of
Kashiwara-yama, the highest point
of the S. E. range of the island
(1,930 ft.), commanding a very fine
view inland all over the plains of
southern Awaji, its distant north-
ern hills, the sea, the coast of Ki-
sh«, Nushima (the odd islet off
Awaji), and some islets oft' the coast
of Shikoku. To obtain this view,
it is necessary to go up through the
wood behind the temple. Fi-om
Kashiwara-yama one may descend
to Yura, where a garrison is
stationed in connection with the
fort commanding the entrance to
the Kii channel. Thence there is
a 2 n ride or walk along a beauti-
ful shore.

The interest of the Southern In-
land Eoad leading from Sumoto to
Fukura is mainly archaeological.
There is a curious mound called
Onogoro-jimn, i.e., the island of
Onogoro, at a short distance from
the village of Yagi or Yogi, where
the path to it diverges r. from the
main road, and soon leads to a dry

Southern Inland Road.

427

river-bed where it is necessary to
alight from the jinrikishas.

A very early Japanese tradition, pre-
served in the Kojiki, tells ua that Izanagi
and Izanami, when they were about
to produce the Japanese archipelago,
"stood upon the Floating Bridge of
Heaven, pushed down ti)e jewelled spear
and stirred with it. whereupon, when
they had stirred the brine till it went
curdle-eurdle (koro-koro) and drew the
spear up, the brine that dripped down
from the end of the spear was piled up
and became an island. This is the island
of Onogoro."

Several islets off the coast of
Awaji contend for the honour of
being this first-fruit of creation ;
and this inland claimant may wcJl,
by the ignorant country-people, be
supposed to have been once itself
an island, standing up as it does
prominently from the siirrounding
rice-field flats. In reality there
would seem to be little doubt as to
its being the funeral mound of
some very ancient prince, all mem-
ory of whom has passed away.
There is a small shrine on it de-
dicated to Izanagi and Izanami,
and at the southern end of it a stone
called the se/cirei-ishi, or " wagtail
stone," with reference to an inci-
dent of the creation legend for
which Vol. Ill, Part I, Appendix, pp.
69-70, of the Transactiop^s of the
Asiatic Society of Japan may be
consulted. A hole has been scooped
out on the W. side of the mound by
women who mix fragments of the
earth with water, and drink it as
a charm to ensure easy delivery.
Almost within a stone's throM' is a
clump of reeds called Ashi-wara-
Icoku.

Ashi-wara-no-kuni, i.e. the Land of Koed
Plains, is an ancieut name for Japan. But
the country-people, mistaking ashi, " a
reed," for ashi. "the foot," have invented
a story to the effect that this is the spot on
wljich Izanami first set foot when he
came down to earth. — Kuni and koku are
synonyms for " land " or " country."

After visiting Onogoro-jima, the
jinrikishas are rejoined, and the
hamlets of Oenami and Koenami
passed through. The latter is

marked by two or three very fine
pine-trees. The pine-trees of the
whole island, however, are those
which form an avenue lining the
main road for a distance of 50 chfi
just at this part of the journey.
In order to enjoy the sight of them,
it is worth while turning into the
main road as soon as the avenue is
seen to the 1.

A further detour to the 1. is need-
ed if it be intended to \dsit the viU.
of Igano, where, at the establish-
ments of two families called 3Iimpei
and Sampei, the potteries for which
Awaji is famous are located. Foreign
visitors easily gain admittance.

This peculiar ware was first produced
between the years 1830 and 18iu by one
Kaju Mimpei, a man of considerable pri-
vate means, who devoted himself to the
ceramic art out of ijure enthu.siasm.
Directing bis efforts at first to reproduc-
ing the deep green and straw-yellow
glazes of China, which country he visited
in quest of information, he had exhausted
almost his entire resources before suc-
cess came ; and even then the xjublic was
slow to recognise the merits of his ware.
Now, however, connoisseurs greatly prize
genuine old pieces by JMiuiijei, some of
which combine various colour.-? so as to
imitate tortoise-shell, while others have
designs incised or in relief, or are skil-
fully decorated with gold and silver. At
the present day the quality of Awaji ware
has sadly deteriorated, though Sampei
has won prizes at exhibitions in Australia
and el.sewhere. The pieces a;e mostly
monochromatic and intended for every-
day use.

The next object of interest on
the road is the Tumulua of the
unfortunate Emperor Junnin, men-
tioned above. Being 202 ken in
length and 72 ken iu breadth, while
the whole is surrounded by a moat
and covered with a dense grove
full of singing-birds, this tumulus
forms a very prominent object in the
landscape. It is commonly known
as Tenno no Mori, that is, the Em-
peror's Grove. That of Junnin's
mother, Taema Fujin, lies 8 or 10
cho away from it in a south-westerly
direction.

After leaving these mounds, a
jinrikisha ride of about ^ hr. brings
one to the little seaport town of

428

BoiUe 44. — T]ie Island of Aivaji.

Fukiira, now fortitied, where it will
probably be best to spend the second
night. The wonder ol" the place
is the violent rush of water through
the Naruto Channel, which
separates the islands of Awaji and
SMkoku, and connects the Inland
Sea wth the Pacitic Ocean. It is a
truly gi-and sight, and one which
should certainly not be missed,
especially at spring-tides when no
junk can attempt the passage. Boats
are furnished at a reasonable charge
by the proprietor of the inn at Fu-
kura ; and the expedition, which
occiipies from 4 to 6 hrs., is attend-
ed with no danger, passengers being
taken out under shelter of the
coast to ^vithin easy distance of the
strait, and being able to view the
whole panorama either from the
boat, or from some rocks on which it
is usual to land. The best time of
all is said to be the 3rd day of the
3rd moon, old style (some time at
the end of March or in the first
half of April), when the people of
the neighbouring districts on both
sides of the channel take a hohday,
and go out in boats to see the rush
of the biiny torrent. The breadth
of the channel is estimated at 18
cho ; but some rocks diwle it into
two iinequal parts, called respec-
tively O-Nando and Ko-Naruto,
i.e., the Greater and the Lesser
Naruto. The Greater Naruto be-
ing on the Shikoku side, that side
afEords an even liner spectacle
than is to be obtained from Awaji.
Looking from the boat, if on the
Awaji side, the province of Awa
in the Island of Shikoku is seen
in front ; to the r. of it stretches
the long line of Shddo-shima,
well-known for its gi'anite quar-
ries ; while finther r. in the ex-
treme distance, are the mountains
of Harima on the mainland.
vfiih the little island of Ejima
sticking up in front of them like
a cocked hut. The rocks on the
Awaji side are tilted at a
considerable angle, and are here
and there lined with pine-trees

which give them an appearance
resembling that of a painting in
the Chinese style. For soft win-
ning beauty, however, neither this
nor any part of the W. Coast,
excepting towards the north, is
comparable to the E. Coast of the
island. On the way back, the
boatmen may suggest landing at
Kemuri-shima and at Susaki, the
two islets in Fukura harbour ;
but it is hardly worth while to
do so. Kemiiri-sJdino, is the high
thickly wooded islet, Susaki
the low sandy or>e. At the summit
of the former is an insignificant
shrine dedicated to the goddess
Kwannon.

On leaving Fukura it is best to
take jinriMsha to Minato, a dis-
tance called 2^- ri of 5U cho each,
but more probably 2 J ordinary ri
of 3(3 did. The first part of the
road leads near the tumulus of the
Emperor Junnin, but turns ofE to
the 1., sldrtiug the W. side of the
valley. The prettiest part of the
ride — for jinrildshas can be taken
— lies along the embankment of a
small river flowing some feet above
the level of the surrounding plain,
of which a fine view is obtained,
with Senzan marked by a clump of
trees on its summit and the
mountains of Harima in the ex-
treme distance. The Aillage of
Minato is remarkable tor its salt
factories, and for a temple dedi-
cated to Kwannon which resembles
a small fortified castle. From here
the main road proceeds along the
coast, at first under the shadow of
pine-trees by the beach, — locally
famous under the name of Kei no
Matsuhara. The views obtained
here embrace the coast of Harima,
the island of Shodo-shima, and the
mountains of Awa behind Shodo-
shima. The third night Avill proba-
bly best be syient at Gunge. After
Gunge the view gi-adually gains in
beauty. The jmth moimts, little
promontories stretch out into the
sea, pine-trees extend their fantas-
tically contorted shapes toward

Route 45, — Maisue and the Temple of Izumo.

429

the waves, to the 1. lies Shodo-
shinia, and ahead and to the r. the
already often mentioned but ever
varying outline of the blue moun-
tains of Harima, with, in the faint
distance, the snow-capped Tamba
range. Beyond the little hamlet of
Murotsu, the screen of hills forming
the backbone of Awaji itself retires
a little from the strand, giving
green upland glimpses of field and
valley.

The passage across from Tsukue
to Akashi, makes a pleasant finish
to the journey in fine weather,
the views being delightful. The
whole horizon is alive with the
white sails of junks going up and
down the Inland Sea. Those to
whom a sea journey is pleasant
only in proportion to its shortness,
will do best to cross to Maiko from
Maisuo, a hamlet at the northern
extremity of the island, not far
from the lighthouse.

The trip might be shortened and
a night saved by taking steamer
direct from Kobe to Sumoto, and
by omitting the expedition to the
Naruto whirli:)ool ; but it would be
a great pity to miss the latter,
which is a sight unique in Japan.

ROUTE 45.

Matsce and the Temple of

IzuMO. Ascent of Daisen.

Hamada. Hagi.

1. Matsue.

The principal object of interest
on this little travelled route is
the (ireat Temple of Izumo des-
cribed on page 431. Few parts of
Japan are less affected by European
influence than this West Coast
region, where railways have not
yet penetrated, where the people's
ways are simple, and Shinto retains
its ancient ascendencv.

A common Japanese name for the West
Coast is Siin-indb, or Shady District, given
to it in coiitradistiijction to the shore of
the Inland Sea, whicli is called San-iiodo,
or Sunny District. The striking differ-
ence in climate between the two fully
justifies these names. Cloudy skies,
heavy snowfall, and intense cold charac-
terise the San-iudo winter.

A road, also called San-indo
leads, at varying distances from,
the coast, the whole way from
Yushima (see p. 403) to the prov-
ince of Chdshu, passing through
the prefectural towns of Tottori
and Matsue. This jinrildsha jour-
ney of nearly 300 miles cannot be
recommended unless to those
whose predominant desire is to
tread unbeaten tracks, as it is dull
travelling, with poor inns and few
sights, excepting in the small por-
tion now to be described.

The quickest route to this part of
the W. Coast is afforded by the
railway from Okayama to Tsuyama
('2J hrs.), in the province of IVIima-
saka, which place boasts some hot
springs. From Tsuyama a jiniiM-
sha road leads to Yonago on the
Nalca-umi Lagoon, whence by
steamer across this lagoon and up
the Ohashi-gawa to Matsue. Time
2 days. Kaisuyama and Yonago
offer the best accommodation on
the way. The scenery is pretty in.
parts, especially to the N. of the
pass — Shi-ju JMagnri — leading over
from Mimasaka into Hoki, where
Daisen shows out grandly at times.

Itinerary.

TSUYAMA to:— ' Ri Cho 21.

Miyao 1 28 4J

Tsuboi 1 29 4J

Kuze 3 ] 7|

Katsuyama 1 14 3|-

Mikamo 3 20 8^

Shinj5 1 24 4

Itaibara 2 13 5|

Neu 1 33 4|

Ebi 1 31 4^

Mizoguchi 2 12 5^

YONAQO 3 14 8|

Total 25 3 &U

430 Boule 45. — Matsue and the Temple of Izumo.

Plus 14 m. by steamer at the end.

An alternative way to Matsue from
the Inland Sea district is overland
fi'om Hiroshima to tihinji on the
lake of the same name, — a fine
jinrikisha road easily traversed in
3 days with 2 coolies. The best
plan is to hii-e them for the whole
trip, though the local custom is to
take one man only, engaging an
additional man for the steep bits.

Itineranj.

HIKOSHDIA to :— Ri Cho 31

Kabe 4 16 10|

Kamine 3 17 8^-

Yoshida 4 8 10|-

Kodachi 2 — 5

Aldmachi 1 19 3|-

Miyoshi 2 28 6|

Funo 4 4 10

Yokodani 1 16 3J

Akana 2 j4 5|

Tombara 3 16 8|

Kakeai 5 9 12^

Mitova 4 22 ll^:

SHINJI 4 10 10^-

Totixl 44 9 108

The follov\ing are the usual
halting-places : Yoshida, Myoshi,
Tombara, Kakeai, and ?.Iito:.a.

The scenery is pleasing through-
out, though nowhere grand or
striking. Several ascents of from
1,100 ft. to 2,500 ft. are encounter-
ed. Tliis route is less encumbered
in winter with snow than any of the
others leading over to the West
Coast. Soon after leaving Tombara
commences a gentle declivity, which
leads down almost uninten-uptedly
to Shinji. Fi-om here steamers ply
on the lagoon every 2 or 3 hrs. to
Matsue, distant about 14 m., say 1.^
hr.; also to Shobara for the
temple of Izumo in A hr.

Coasting steamers call in at
Sakai, the port of Matsue, at the
mouth of the Naka-umi Lagoon.

Matsue (Inn, *Minami, in Kyo-
Mise), the most important town on
the West Coast, is noted for its
agates and crystals and for the man-

ufacture of paper. Formerly the
seat of a Daimyo, whose well-pre-
serAed castle stands on a height in
its midst, ilatsue is a clean and
prosperous city, splendidly situated
on the borders of the Shinji Lagoon,
suri'ounded by low hills beyond
which rise the blue silhouettes of
distant mountain ranges, with
Daisen towering high above all.
Of Matsu.e's many temples, the
best are Gesshdji, Tokdji, Kasuga,
and Inari. The hot springs of
Tama-tsvkuri, 1 J ri S.AV. of Matsue,
are a pojiular resort.

The Izumo faience made at Fujiaa in
the neigbboiirhoocl is wcll-kiio\\'ii to con-
noisseurs. "Good specimens are," says
the late Mr. J. L. Bowes, "noticeable for
the glazes which are used : they are singu-
larly transparent and brilliant, having a
highly satisfactory effect upon the deli-
cate yellow faieace, and the crackled
surfaces afford an ailmirable ground for
the customary decoration, generally of
insect*, butterflies, and so forth, in va-
rious colours. The painting, however,
is generally of poor order, and the eu»-
mcUed Colours used are weak and by no
means satisfactory. Occasionally choco-
late or green ^laze.s are used without
the addition of any decoration, and the
skill with which these brilliant glazes
ai-e ai)plied produces a good effect."

2. Great Temple of Izumo.

The best way from Matsue to the
great Shinto temple of Izumo is by
steamer to Shohara, or to Hirata
near the W. end of the lagoon,
whence the jom-ney is made by jin-
rikisha in 3 or 4 hrs., the whole
distance being ICJ ri, or 25^' miles.
The mass of Sambe-yama looms up
in front.

Kizuki [Inn, Inaba-ya), a quaint
little town at the base of Tabi-ishi-
yama, is famed throughout the
length and breadtli of Japan for
the Great Temple of Izumo [Izumo
no 0-ijashiro), which is deehcated to
the god Gnamiiji, and disputes
with tho«e of Ise the honour of
being the most ancient and venei-a-
ble shrine of the Shintd religion.
Kizuki is also a favourite sea-bath-
ing resort.

Great Temple of Izumo

431

The province of Izumo, and more or leas
the whole country eastwaj-d to Tajima
and Tango, together with the Oki Islands,
occujjy a prominent place as the theatre ot
many of the tales forming the old Japa-
nese mythology. Indeed that mythology
has been traced by students to three cen-
tres, of which one is Kyushii with its
warlike legends of Jimmu Tenno and
Jingo Kogo, aucentors of the Imperial
line ; another is Yamato, which in e.irly
days seems to have had native xninces of
its own ; and the third is Izumo, wherein
are located strange tales of gods, and
monsters, and speaking animals, and
caves through which entrance to Hades
is obtained. Suaa-no-o, born from the
nose of the creator Izanagi and brother
to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, is the
hero of some of these tales. The hero of
most of the others is his descendant Ona-
muji, also called Okuni-nushi, that is,
"the Master of the Gieat Land," in other
words, the King of Izumo, to whom later
on an embassy was sent from heaven,
requesting him to abdicate the sovereignty
in favour of the Sun-Goddess's descen-
dant, progenitor of the earthly Mikados.
To this he consented, on condition of
having a temple built for his reception
and worship. So they built him a grand
shrine on the shore of the land of Izumo,
"making stout the temple pillars on the
nethermost rock-bottom, and making high
the cross-beams to the plain of high
heaven," — and there he is worshipped to
this day, the very name of Kizulci
preserving to the faithful the recollection
of the jjestles {kine) with which the soil
was beaten (tsuku,) to render the founda-
tions firm and everlastiug. — Possibly this
tale preserves in mythic form an echo of
the conquest of Western Japan by the
present ruling race.

The buildings (see illustration
facing p. 39), which are in the
unornamented style of Pure Shinto,
impress the beholder by their great
size and solidity and the majesty
of the approaches under successions
of colossal torii. The services are
conducted by priests gorgeously
arrayed in white and pvirple robes
with gold figuring. The high-priest,
who boasts of being the eighty-
second descendant in a direct line
from the god Susa-no-o, used to be
styled Iki-gami — that is, a "living
god." The temple possesses many
cui'iosities and valuable docu-
ments. Here, too, may be seen the
ancient lire-di'ill, which, though but
a simple board with holes wherein

a rapidly revolving stick kindles
sparks, is still preserved as the sole
lawful means of producing the
sacred fire. There are nineteen
other shrines, not consecrated to
any deities in particular, but in
winch all the Shinto gods and god-
desses are supposed to assemble
during the month of October. For
this reason October is, in Izumo
alone, called Kami-ari-zuki, " the
Month with Gods ;" whereas, in the
classical parlance of the rest of
Japan, it is Kami-na-zuki, " the
Month without Gods," because all
the uiher shrines of the empire are
believed to be then abandoned by
their tutelary deities. On the sea-
shore stands a much smaller
temple, — the scene, so it is said, of
the abdication of the sovereignty
of Izumo by the god Onamuji.
From 2OO,U0O to •25l),000 pilgrims
visit the Great Shrine annually. On
festal days the sound of the
clapping of hands, to call the
attention of the god, is unbroken
like the roar of a cataract.

Owing to the prominence of
Izumo in mythology and legend,
many Shinto shrines, besides that
dedicated to Onamuji, are found
scattered about the province. Such
are Kumano Jinja, 5 ri S. of Matsue,
dedicated to Susa-no-o ; Mio Jinja,
at the beautiful little seaport of
Mionoseki, about 2 hrs. by steamer
from Matsue ; Yaegaki Jinja, at the
hamlet of Sakusa ; and Hino-misaki
Jinja, 2 ri up the coast from Kizuki
by boat. There are also some
ancient dolmens at and near Ima-
ichi, a little to the S.E. of Kizuki.

Apart from these, there is a
pretty 4 ri excursion from Kizuki
to the banks of the Kobegawa,
which, for the space of nearly a
mile, exhibit fantastic rock sce-
nery. The best plan is to take a
boat down the river. A second,
longer and very much rougher, ex-
pedition is up Savibe-yama, the
highest mountain in all this coun-
try-side, Daisen only excepted.

432

Route A&. — The Oki Islands.

3. — Ascent of Daisen,

Daisen, or Oyamn, 6,050 ft., tlie
loftiest as well as the most sacred
mountain on the West Coast, where
dweUs the great Shintd god
Onamuji, may be reached from
Matsue by steamer to Yonago, a
run of 14 miles.

Founded in A.D. 718, the monastery
owes its lasting celebrity to the seventh
abbot Jikaku Daishi, who is said to have
landed here on his return from China,
whither he had betaken himself to study
esotenc mysteries. It attained its great-
est prosperity in the 14th tentury, at
about the time when the hapless Emperor
Go-Daigo was exiled to the Oki Islands.
There \\ere then no less than two hundred
and fifty temples in all ou the mountain.
During the Tokugawa regime, when the
centie of civilisation had shifted to East>
em Japan, these decreased to forty : and
now little remains but moss-covered ruins
and a few monks in abject poverty.
These eke out a livelihood by letting
rooms to pilgrim.s, to whom, however, the
strict Buddhist discipline forbids their
offering a more generous diet than pota-
toes and other scanty vegetables.

The temples are situated half-way
up the mountain side. The path is
bad, but the ^iew from the top
extensive, the chief features being
the Old Islands in the offing, Sam-
be-yama on the borders of Izumo
and Iwami to the W., and l^Iikuni-
yama and the moimtains of Tajima
and Tamba to the E. The descent
from Daisen is best made to Kuru-
ma-Onmra, 1 ri from Yonago.

4. — Hamada and Hagi.

These places \^'ill probably be
touched at, in the event of leaving
Matsue by sea westwards for Naga-
saki or Irdand Sea ports. As far as
Hamada the San-indo highway, to
be availed of from the western end
of Lake Shinji, mostly skirts the
Sea of Japan. Beyond Hamadji it
is much less good.

Hamada [Lms, D6gu-ya, Hama-
oka), situated on ix tine bay, is
chiefly noted on account of the
terrible earthquake which half
wiecked it in 1872, and in which

over •2,tX)0 persons perished. A
good highway joins Hamada with
Hxroshima on the Inland Sea, the
distance being traversed by jinriki-
sha in a day and a half. There
is fair accommodation on the way.

Hagi {Inn, Osaka-ya) was in
early feudal times the residence of
the great ]M6ri family — Daimyos
of Choshu — before their removal to
the town of Yamaguchi. It was
also the birthplace of Chikamatsu
Monzaemon (see p. 71). — Instead of
continuing on in the steamer round
the coast, some persons may prefer
to cut across country from Hagi to
Yam'iguchi. The distance is 9 ri
over the Ichi-no-saka pass, or 12 ri
by the new road ; but the former
is generally followed. A day will
suffice in either case.

ROUTE 46.

The Oki Islands.

Oki consists of one large island
called Dogo, and three smaller
ones, — Chibitri-shima, Nishi-no-
shima, and Nukashima, — collective-
ly known as Dozen. The capital
is Saigo in D5go, the distance to
which by sea from Sakai in H5ki is
about 40 miles.

The name Okl-no-shima evidently signi-
fies " Islands in the Offing." Remote and
rarely visited as is this little archipelago,
it has figured in the national annals from
the earliest ages. One of the quaintest
legends in the Kijiki is that of the White
Hare of luaba. which sagacious animal,
chancing to be in Oki and desiring a
passage to the mainland, made the cro-
codiles (or sharks) of the sea lie in a row,
80 aa to sei-ve him as a bridge. — Com-
ing down to hi.storical times, the ex-
Emperor Go-Toba, who had vainly
striven to upset the feudal system and
restore his own legitimate authority, waa
defeated by Hojo Yoshitoki, aud banished
to .\uiag6ri in Dozen, where he died after
mauy years of exile, A.D. 1239, and where

Voyage to Saigo.

433

his tomb is s^till shown. About eighty
years later another emperor, Go-Daigo,
was banished by another Hojo chieftain
to Beppu in Kishi-no-shima, but soon
effected his escape in a fishing-boat, con-
cealed under a heap of dried fish. Oki
was a constant scene of strife during the
Middle Ages, being wrested by one feudal
family from another. The great staple
of the archipelago is the cuttle-fish, of
which incredible quantities are some-
times taken.

The follo^ving account of a visit
to Oki is taken from a private letter
of Mr. Lafcadio Hearn, to whose
Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan we
refer the reader desirous of more
detailed information,

" I think the reason more peoj)le
don't go to Oki, is because of the
wretched Httle steamer that makes
the journey—the most vincomfor-
table craft ever launched ; however,
she is swift and strong, and makes
her trip from Sakai in between 5
and 6 hours. As the Izumo and
Hoki mountains fade from sight,
the high cliffs of Oki come into
view. Steaming into this archi-
pelago, one sees at iirst no sign of
Ufe, — neither fields, paths, nor
felled timber, — only naked grey
chffs sheering up from blue-black
dejjths of water to peaked slopes
covered with a sombre, scraggy,
wild vegetation. Nevertheless,
there is beauty here. The water
becomes like glass as the steamer
glides into an inland sea, formed
by the three islands of Chiburi-
shima, Nishi-no-shima, and Naka-
shima. On the coast of Ghiburi-
shima, the steamer first touches at
a tiny village called Chihuri-mura,
which comes suddenly into view.
It was from this village that the
Emperor Go-Daigo made his famous
escape in a fishing-boat, being con-
cealed by the Old fishermen under
a heap of dried fish.

" Then she proceeds to Urago in
Nishi-no-shima, — a very quaint
little town, with houses ail fac-ing
the sea, and stone wharves rising
out of deep water. I dined at an
inn (Watanabe), and was astonished
at the excellence of the dinner. I

had not eaten a better Japanese
meal anywhere, and the price was
only 7 sen. Hishi-ura in Naka-
shima is the next port at which the
steamer stops. Its semi-circle of
wharves faces the clearest of sea-
water. The buildings are very
neat. The best inn is Okazaki. I
think the scenery in this archi-
pelago much finer on the whole
than that of the boasted Inland
Sea. The ghmpses between high
islands, the openings of straits, the
vistas of tender blue distance be-
tween riigged high cliffs, — are
wonderfully beautiful. Everything
is lofty. Rice-fields are seldom
visible. The steamer leaves Hishi-
ura for Dogo across 8 ri of dange-
rous sea, passing Matsushima,
Omori-shima, and a number of
small, lofty, steep, uninhabited
islands on the way. Some of this
island scenery is very fantastic.
There are several remarkable sea-
caves. Dogo is quite as steep and
rugged as its neighbours.

"The harbour of Saigo is very
large, — opening into the land in the
form of a Greek co, — and has
heights all round it. The scenery
is pretty, like that of nearly all the
OM ports. Saigo stands partly on
a small river — the Yabigawa, — and
it lines the bay and tlie mouth of
the river in a most curious way, so
that the streets twist about like
snakes to a gi'eat length. There
are nearly 1,000 houses, and I
suppose fuUy 5,000 inhabitants.
Jinrildshas have not yet found
their way here, but horses of a
peculiarly small breed abound.
The best iim is Inayoshi where
good food can be had, including
beef. The city is fresh and new,
having been bui-nt to the ground a
few years ago, and completely
rebuilt. The depth of the harbour
is complained of as an inconveni-
ence ; but Saigo is a busy and
prosperous port. Three hundred
vessels at a time may be seen riding
in the harbour. Eussian and
English men-of-war have visited

434

Route 46. — I?te Oki Islands.

Saig5 ; but I am tlie first foreigner
to dwell in the town. Outside are
a few rice-fields. On a hill above
the town is the new and pretty
temple of Zenrydji, belonging to the
Jodo sect, — the gift of a wealthy
citizen. There are also some
places locally celebrated, such as
the Bangyo-iaki, a waterfall 5 ri

from tSaigo ; but the paths are
unspeakably bad, and everything is
rocks and luountains. There is
found at a celebrated lake {Sai-no-
ike), near Saigo, the famous batei-
seki, a black stone which is the
meibutsu of Old. Beautiful jet-like
articles are cut from it."

SECTION Y.
THE ISLAND OF SHIKOKU

(koutes 4y — -5/.

Route 47. — Noi^th-Eastern Shikoku.

437

KOUTE 47.

Nokth-Easteen Shikoku.

1. GeNEEAL K.EMAEKS ON THE

Island op Shikoktj.

The -word SJii-kokn means " four coun-
tries,"— a name derived from the fact of
the island being divided into the four
provinces of Awa to the E., Sanuki to the
N.E.,Iyo totheN.W., and Tosa to the S.
As the author of the Kojiki quaintly
phrases it, "This island has one body
and four faces, and each face has a
name." Some of the names used in early
times were quaint indeed, the province
of lyo being called " Lovely Princess "
{E-hime), Sanuki being "Prince Good
Boiled Eice " {liyori-hiko), Awa_ being
"the Princess of Great Food" (0-ge-tsu-
hime,), and Tosa being "the Brave Good
Youth " (Talce-yori-wake). The last-named
province continues to justify its name
for bravery and ability. No men have
aided more than the Tosa men to bring
about the renovation of Japan ; in none
are turbulent and democratic sentiments
more prevalent. During the middle ages
Shikoku was ruled by a number of
great feudal families, of which the most
powerful were the Kono, the Hosokawa,
the Miyoshi, the Chosokabe, and the
Hachisuka. The island i.s now divided
into the four prefectures of Tokushima,
Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi, correspond-
ing respectively to the old provinces of
Awa, Sanuki, lyo, and Tosa.

The climate of Shikoku is excep-
tionally mild, especially in the
southern portion, which is in-
fluenced by the Kuroshio, or Japa-
nese gulf -stream ; hence late au-
tumn or early winter is the best
time to %'isit it. Tosa is the only
province in Japan where two crops
of rice are produced yearly.

The greater part of the island
is covered with mountain ranges
of from 3,000 ft. to 4,000 ft. in
height, with few salient peaks, the
loftiest being Ishizuchi-yama on
the boundary of lyo and Tosa
(6,480 ft.). "In Sanuki," says Dr.
Kein, "the plain of Talcamatsu is
fringed towards the sea by several
volcanic cones, quite distinct from
the schist mountains in the in-
terior. They include no important
heights, but are a very strildng
feature in the landscape." The

mountains of Shikoku are well-
watered, and crowned with mag-
nificent forests. "In the higher
regions," says the authority jiist
quoted, " the eye is delighted by a
vigorous growth of deciduous trees,
where horse-chestnuts and magno-
lias are variously intermingled
with beeches, oaks, maples, ashes,
and alders. But laurel-leaved oaks,
camelhas, and other evergreen trees
venture much nearer to them and
higher than in Hondo [the main
island of Japaii\, while still lower
camphor-trees and other cinnamon
species, the wild star-anise, Nan-
dina, and many other plants which
we only find in the Main Island in
a state of cultivation, take part in
the composition of the evergreen
forests."

Routes 47, 48, and 49 are the
most picturesque in this section.
The best way of getting to Shikoku
is by steamer across the Inland
Sea, — say, from Kobe or Onomichi
to Tadotsu, from Okayama to
Takamatsu, from Hiroshima or
Moji to Mitsu-ga-hama, etc.

2. TOKDSHIMA, NaEUTO WhIEL-

pooL. Takamatsu, IVIaext-

GAME, Tadotsu, Sheine

OF Kompiea.

Itinerary,

TOKUSHIMA to :— Ri Cho M.

Nakamura 1 35 4|

Muya 2 15 6

Bando '2 28 6f

Odera i 4 2f

Hiketa 3 13 8J

Sambon-matsu ... 1 34 4|-

Machida (Nibu) ... 34 2^

Nagao 3 12 8|

Hiragi 1 4 2|

TAKAMATSU 3 9 7$

Total 22 8 54-^

Whence 2 hrs. by railway, via
Marugame and Tadotsu, to Kom-
pira.

Steamers_ for Tokushima start
daily from Osaka, sometimes calling

438

Route 47. — North-Easlrrn Shikoku.

in at Kobe to pick up passengers.
Details to be ascertained at the Kobe
office. The passage is made during
the night, and the traveller finds
himself at dawn ghding up the
broad Yoshino-gawa. Soon the
steamer stops at Kami-Zuketd (or
Suketo), a suburb of Furukawa, the
port of Tokushima, whence to Toku-
shima itself is a 25 min. jinrikisha
ride through pleasant country and
past the thickly wooded site of the
old castle of the Hachisiika family,
the outer wall and moat of which
still remain.

This great family of Daimyos held sway
over the whole province of Awa fi'om
early in the 17th century till the revolu-
tion of 1868. On the creation of new
orders of nobility in 1884, its present
head received the title of marquis. He
has been permitted to buy back the
castle grounds, which during the earlier
portion of the present reiga had been
used as a site for military barracks.

Tokushima {Inns, * Hiragame-
ro, Shima-gen ; there are two Eiiro-
pean restaurants), the largest and
finest town in the island of Shikoku,
and capital of the province of Awa
and of the prefecture of Tokushima,
is situated near the N.E. corner of
that island, not far fi-om the cele-
brated whirlpool of Naruto. It is
quiet and cleanly, and its sights
need not detain the traveller more
than two or three hours. The prin-
cipal are as follows : — the Rydbu
Shinto temple known as Seimi no
Kompira, strikingly situated on a
rocky hiU called Seimi-yama at the
S. end of the town. It is worth

Sei-mi-yama means lit., " force-viewing
hill." The name is derived from a tradi-
tion to the effect that Yoshitaune here
reviewed his forces before the terrific
encounter at Yashima.

climbing some flights of stone steps
leading to the Shinto temple called
Imbe Jinja, higher up the same hill,
for the sake, not of the temple
itself, but of the delightful and
peculiar view of the town and neigh-
bouring mountains, the rich alluvial
plain intersected by various rivers,
and the sea with the large island of

Nushima to the spectator's left. —
Otaki-zan, a hill nearer the centre
of the town, similarly deserves a
visit for its temples and fine view.
The Castle Grouiuls contain a beau-
tiful landscape garden.

The sea-shore of Kornatsu-jima,
famed for its sceneiy, lies f hr. by
rail to the south.

[An enjoyable day's trip by jin-
rikisha can be made from Toku-
shima to Tsunoinine (locaUy
called Tsunomune-zan), a hill
situated 6 or 7 ri to the south-
ward. There are two roads, —
one following the coast, the
other, which is less picturesque,
lying back a little among the
hiUs. The coast road is render-
ed striking by its rocky clifEs
and long rows of gracef ill pine-
trees. The last J ri, up to a
small temple on the summit,
must be done on foot. The
view here spread out before
the beholder is deemed the
prettiest in the province. Es-
pecially delightfiii is the pros-
pect southwards of the island-
strewn gulf which, under the
names of Kotajima-minato and
Tachibana-ura, curves inland
for 5 or 6 m., while around it
rise wooded heights, with rice-
fields and hamlets in the hol-
lows, and salt-pans below. In
the event of a late start from
Tokushima rendering a return
the same day impossible, the
night may be spent at the vill.
of Tomioka {Inn, Tosa-ya), at
the base of the hill.

An interesting, though dis-
tant and somewhat ardiious,
trip may be made from Toku-
shima to Todoroki no taki,
the largest waterfall in Shi-
koku, and second among
Japan's waterfalls only to that
of Nachi in Kishu. Such is its
reputation for sanctity that,
though females are excluded,
male pilgrims visit it from
every part of the country,

Tinpsfrom Tokushima. Naruto Whirlpool.

439

believing that its clear waters
are an effectual cure for all
diseases. The quickest way of
reaching it is to take the early
morning steamer from Toku-
shima to Mugi (also to be
reached by road, see Itinerary
on p. 455), some 50 miles down
the coast to the south, where
stay the right, starting early
next morning with a guide.
The way leads along a lovely
valley, then over a mountain
down to the valley of the
Kaifu-gatca, on an affluent of
which, near a vill. called Hirai,
the fall is situated. The path
is bad and rather dangerous in
places, and some scrambhng
over rocks is needed to obtain
the best view of the cascade.
There are said to be no less
than ninety-nine waterfalls
higher up. A temple, with
accommodation for pilgrims,
stands near the fall ; but it is
better to get back to the vill.
of Eainose for the night, and
early next morning take a boat
down the rapids to Takazono.
Thence it is a 3 m. walk to
AsakavM, where a steamer can
be availed of to Tokushima.]
On leaving Tokushima, an early
start should be made, with two men
to each jinrikisha ; otherwise the
first day's journey, which can-
not be conveniently brought to a
close before Hiketa, will be prolong-
ed into the night. Another plan is
to sleep at Muya (Inn, Hamano),
after seeing the Naruto whirlpool.
The road leads first across the delta
of the Yoshino-gawa, three of whose
arms are passed on very long
bridges. In front is a line of pine-
clad hills, and aU around extend
fields of rice, sugar-cane, and other
produce. The base of the hills is
reached at Horie, where the road
turns sharp to the r. towards Muya
no Hayazaki, and then comes to
Muya no Okazaki, a fishing hamlet
where boats can be hired for
the trip to the Naruto, or whirlpool

between the islands of Shikoku and
Awaji, described on p. 428. The
trip — a splendid one on a fine day —
will occupy from 3 to 4 hrs. Lunch
should he taken for consump-
tion either in the boat or on the
sea-shore at the other end, where is
the justly celebrated view, — a view
of pine-clad hills, and picturesque
islets, Awaji beyond, with Nushima
to its r., and in the middle the
tremendous rush of water which no
junk can stem except under rare
tidal conditions, the whole scene
recalling some of those pictures
which Chinese and Japanese artists
love to depict.

To proceed on one's journey, the
1^ ri separating Okazaki from Horie
must first be retraced. From Horie
the road continues westward, skirt-
ing the base of the hills, and pass-
ing the tumulus (misasagi) of the
Emperor Tsuchi-Mikado.

It was the fate of this unfortunate
prince to fall upon the stormiest period of
the Middle Ages. His father the Emperor
Go-Toba, and his brother the Emperor
Juntoku, were both exiled. — one to the
Oki Islands, the other to Sado, by the
upstart "Regents" of the H6joline(seep.
59). Himself without any inclination to
withstand rebellious oppression, a friend
of poetry rather than of arms, he retired
voluntarily to what was then considered
the remote province of Tosa, and after-
wards came north into Awa at the dicta-
tion of Ho.io Yoshitoki, who apparently
desired to have the abdicated monarch
within nearer reach in the event of
political complications. He died at the
end of A.D. 1231, at the early age of
thirty -seven.

The whole drive is a very pretty
one, and becomes romantic_after
passing through the vill. of Odera,
where, on a height, glistens a
temple dedicated to the Buddhist
god Shoden. Here the road sud-
denly turns sharp to the r.
and plunges among the hills, in
order to cross over the knob of
high land forming the N.E. ex-
tremity of Shikoku and gain the
shore of the Inland Sea. After a
time, it becomes necessary to alight
from the jinrikishas, so steep is the
Osaka, — as this hill or pass, which

440

Route 47. — Norlh-Eastern Shikoku.

forms the boundary between the
provinces of Awa and Sanuki, is
appropriately termed. About a mile
on either side has thus to be walked.
At the top the Inland Sea comes in
sight, and the view all the way
down is one of continued loveliness,
the blue outline of the mainland of
Harima appearing on the horizon,
and Shodo-shima, the largest island
in the Inland Sea (see p. 418) stand-
ing well out to the 1.

Hiketa {Inn, Ise-ya) is a poor
place, but the scenery beyond it
almost constantly delightful. Just
outside Mketa 1., is a hiU dotted
with Buddhist images representing
the deities worshipped at the
Eighty-eight Holy Places (see p.
451) of the island of Shikoku. All
the hills are covered with pine-
trees, and many have kakemono-
like peaks. Sometimes one passes
an artilicial lake used for purposes
of irrigation, sometimes a torii or
an avenue leading up to an ancient
shrine. The sea, though near at
hand to the r., is not visible ; but
Shodo-shima looms up beyond it
for several miles. The cultivation
of the rich plain through which the
way leads, includes indigo and
sugar ; and those curious in such
matters will find establishments
here and there where sugar-refin-
ing is carried on with very primitive
machinery.

The chief productions of this province
of Sauuki are popularly known as -'the
three white things" (sain-ixtku), viz. salt,
sugar, and cotton. The sutjar industry
is quite modern, having been introduced
from Satsuma less than forty years ago.

Several rivers, too, are passed,
with broad stony beds and but little
water. From the vill. of Tazura
onwards, which lies between Machi-
da and

Na.gao {Inn, *Miki-ya), the land-
scape becomes more fanciful, almost
grotesque, with a sharp serrated
ridge to the 1., forming the frontier
between Sanuki and Awa, and to
the r. and ahead a series of isolated
hills rising abrtiptly out of the

plain. Some of these are perfect
volcanic cones,^ — many of them so
steep as to appear inaccessi-
ble,— others are flat table-moun-
tains, others again have various
queer shapes, the whole assemblage
forming one of the quaintest and
most original scenes that even
Japan has to offer. Meanwhile, the
traveller bowls along rapidly over
the fertile, motintain-dotted plain
by an excellent road.

[From Hiragi the old highway
proceeds almost due W. to
Kotohira, 9 ri, via Taki-no-miya
(good accommodation), 6 ri,
where there is fantastic rock-
ery in the bed of the Aya-
gawa. The whole way is inter-
esting.]

We now turn r., and reach the sea
at Takamatsu {Inns, Asahi-kwan,
Oimatsu-en), capital of the province
of Sanuki, and formerly the seat of
a great Daimyd, the walls of whose
now desolate castle abut on the
sea. A visit to his beautiful land-
scape garden {Kuri-bayashi Kden),
in the S. suburb of the town, should
on no account be omitted. Lying,
as it does, at the base of a high
hiU dotted by nature with pine-
trees, and itself planted with
thousands of pine-trees trained
in fantastic shapes, its severe unity
of design is nevertheless softened
by the skilful introduction of other
vegetation and by the use of water
from natural springs. After having
been abandoned and plundered for
over a decade, it was re-enclosed
by the municipal authorities in
1882. A favourite excursion of
the townsfolk is to Yashima-yama,
the most curiously flat of aU the
mountains mentioned above. It
forms the E. side of the bay of
Takamatsu, and is famous in his-
tory as the scene of one of Yoshi-
tsune's great battles. The distance
is about 2 ri.

Takamatsu is well-provided with
steam communication. One of
the most dehghtful sea trips to be

Takamatsu. Tadotsu. Temple of Kotohira.

441

made hence is that to Shodo-shima,
Ihr.

Takamatsu-Kotohiba Railway.

Distance

from

Names of Stations

Takamatsu

TAKAMATSU

3im.

Kinashi

Hashioka

Kokubu

Kamogawa

Sakaide

14J

Utazu

16|

MARUGAME

19^

TADOTSU

22*

Koiizoji

Zentsuji

27i

KOTOHIRA

This pretty little line of railway
runs S.W. inland across a rich and
smiling plain bounded by hills,
some of them cone-shaped, and all
recently re-afforested with pines.
From Sakaide onwards it follows
the coast for a short way through
salt-pans and fields of rice, sugar,
and cotton. White , sails and
islands seem to stud the ofSng. At

Marugame {Inn, Nakamura-r5),
the remains of a feudal castle crown
an eminence near the station. The
harbour being a poor one, com-
paratively few steamers call in
here. The bustling port of

Tadotsu (Inns, * Yoshida-gumi,
* Hanabishi) has a beautiful ap-
proach from the sea. Onomichi,
the largest port on the mainland,
may be reached by steamer in 2^
hrs. The railway station stands
close to the landing.

A spare couple of hours may be
devoted to going out by jinrikisha
to Byobu-ga-ura, the reputed
birthplace of Kobo Daishi, whence
there is a lovely view.

The tradition is somewhat confused and
self-contradictory, for it is also asserted
that the saint was bom at Zentsuji, now
one of the stations on this line, where a
temple, now much decayed, is pointed out

as occupying the exact site. An effort
at conciliation is made by supposing that
the sea, 1,100 years ago, came up as far as
Zentsuji, which would thus really have
been on the strand.

Another excursion from Tadotsu
is to lyadani, a glen where, accord-
ing to tradition, Kobo Daishi devot-
ed himself to prayer and medita-
tion.

From Tadotsu station the train
backs out the other way to run
S.E. to Kotohira. The consiDicuous
high cone 1. is lino-yama, also called
the Fuji of Sanuki ; the double one
to the r. is Dainichi-yama. Zozu-
san appears ahead to the r., — a long
hog's-back, or, as the Japanese say,
"Elephant's Head," whence the
name. The village of Kotohira
stands at its foot, the shrine on its
side.

Kotoliira, or Kompira.

This shrine, the holiest in all Shikoku.
was founded by Kobo Daishi early in the
ninth century, and is the original from
which countless others in almost every
city of the empire derive their name.
What little is known concerning this
name and the deity who bears it, will
be found on p. 50. The Shintoists took
possession of the place about 1872 ; and
in 1875, the pagoda and most of the
temples reared by Buddhist piety were
razed to the ground, and replaced by new
Shinto structures, while the few Buddhist
buildings that reinained were despoiled of
their altars and gorgeous furniture, and
turned over to the use of the rival cult.
Though Eompira has thus suffered archi-
tecturally, the popularity of the shrine
has been but little affected by the change;
for in Japan religious beliefs sit lightly
on the jjeople, who, provided there be an
ancient fhrine to resort to and purchase
charms at, care little what form of faith
may be there professed. The great annual
festival, which takes place on the 10th
and 11th October, is a notable sight, now
as of yore : so is the Shiogawa Matsuri on
the 8th— 10th September. The lesser fes-
tival held on the 10th of each month is
very lively, both at Kompira itself and at
all the branch shrines in other provinces.
The SaJcura no Matsuri, or Cherry Festival,
and the Momiji no Matsuri, or Maple Fes-
tival — recent institutions — are celebrat-
ed on the 10th day of the 3rd and 10th
moons, old style, respectively, the
object being to give worshippers some-
thing at the seasons to which their fathers
had for centuries been accustomed. The
pilgrims returning from Kompira may be

442

Route. 47. — North- Eastern Shikoku.

known by the long boards which they
carry wrapped up in oil-paper inscribed
with a large ^, the first of the Chinese
characters with which the name of Kom-
pira is written.

Of the numeroiis excellent Inns
at Kompira, the best are the *Tora-
ya, Bizen-ya, and Yoshima-ya.
The town lives completely by and
for the i^ilgiims ; and as we wend
up the street of stairs leading to the
temple, we see nothing on either
hand but shops for the sale of
gaudy boxes in which to enclose
paper charms (fuda-bako), money-
changers' stalls where the smallest
denominations of coppers may be
obtained for offering at the various
shrines or giving to beggars, ribbons
for taking away as presents, and so
on. The gi'eat two-stoiied gate
{Daimon), which marks the entrance
to the holy precincts, is a survival
from Buddhist days. From here
to the top, which stands G50 ft.
above sea-level, there are 572 stone
steps to be mounted. The way is
hned with granite lanterns and a
granite palisade, inscribed with the
names of those persons who con-
tributed funds towards the erection
of the new temples. There are
also rows of wooden tablets and,
higher up, what look like mile-
stones, similarly inscribed. Near
the top of these lirst two sections
of the way there are 1. three live
sacred horses. At the top itself,
a few steps further, stands the
former Kondo, or Golden Temple, of
Buddhist times, now renamed Asahi
no Yashiro, that is, the Shrine of
the Rising Sun, bereft of its former
gorgeous altar which is replaced by
a Shintd shrine of white wood, — a
temple in miniature. It dates
from early in the 19th century, and
is all built of keyalci wood. Notice
the elaborate carvings of lions and
peonies in front, and of lotuses and
Chinese sages on the sides. Even
the under side of the eaves of the
toi) roof is carved. The metal-
work also is excellent, and there
are some pretty bronzes in the

grounds. The end tiles all have
either the character ^ or else the
mitsii-domoe (see p. 95), which is
the crest of Kompira. We then
pass through a handsome bronze
torii with a reeded base, thi'ough a
gate called the Sakaki Mon, and by
more granite pahsading under the
shadow of fine trees, before mount-
ing other flights of steps.

To the Sakaki Mon a somewhat curious
legend attaches. Chosokabe, lord of Shi-
koku, so it is said, when engaged in bring-
ing the island under his sway during the
Middle Ages, met with determined re-
sistance from many of the great monas-
teries, which at that jjeriod by no means
confined themselves to spiritual weapons.
When the rest had with difBculty been
brought into subjection, he sallied forth
against Kompira, the most powerful
monastery of all. But the deities of the
place assuming the fonn of a swarm of
wasps, his army fled panic-stricken. In
token of submission to the divine will,
Chosokabe then vowed to raise in this
place a gate made of sakaki. the sacred
cleyera tree ; but pretending that he could
find none large enough, he contented
himself with building one out of the
trunks of common trees stuck in upside
down (saka-li). That the Buddhist clergy
were a thorn in the side of civil govern-
ment at that unsettled period, is histori-
cally certain. That they were the sole
chroniclers of the time, is made manifest
by the ascrij^tion of impiety to all who
opposed them.

Observe 1., at one of the landings,
a curious httle stone monument, —
a tortoise supporting a square up-
right stone with longitudinal aper-
tvu-es and wires. On these are
strung wooden tickets, which serve
as counters for the pUgiims who
perform the lite called Ilijaku-do,
that is, running up and down
the final flight of steps a hundred
times. At the very top is the
Honshu, or new Main Temple, com-
manding a delightful view of the
plain towards Marugame, dotted
with hills and watered by the
Dokigawa. Beyond it is the Inland
Sea, and bej'ond it again what
looks like the mainland, but which
in reality is a cluster of islands.
The panelled ceiling of the Main
Temple is partly adorned with cher-
ry-blossoms in gold lacquer. By a

Coast from Tadotsu to Matsuyama.

443

curious whim of the artist, the
trunk, also in gold and silver
lacquer, from which they are sup-
posed to grow, has been i^laced
outside on the 1., and the top
branches also outside on the r. It
dates fom 1878. To this Main
Temple are attached all the iisual
Shinto buildings. It has retained
the Ema-do of earHer days, special-
ly remarkable for the numerous
pictures of junks and even steam-
ers, offered by seamen whom Kom-
pira's divine power has preserved
from shipwreck. Among the ex-
votos are several real anchors ;
but the most precious, from an
artistic point of view, are paintings
of a monkey with young by the
great artist Sosen, and of a Saru-
(jatcu dancer by Buncho. A cock
and hen with chicks made entirely
out of small copper coins, and
dating from the year 1820, are
very curious. The bronze horse
near here is rubbed by devotees
on any part of the body where
they themselves are suffering pain,
in the hoije of getting it cured.
Twelve cho further up the hill an
Olcu-sJia (see p. 43) has recently
been erected.

Those travellers who take a
sjiecial interest in Japanese art
may terminate their exploration of
Kompii'a by visiting the Shamusho,
or Temple Office, on the way down
to the village. This formerly con-
stituted the residence of the Bud-
dhist high-priest, and has one suite
of apartments decorated by the cel-
ebrated painter Okyo with storks,
tigers, and Chinese sages, and an-
other decorated by Kishi Gantai in
a very bold style, having an inner-
most room adorned with bunches
of flowers by Jakuchu. This inner-
most room was reserved for the
Mikado's envoy, the inner room
of the first suite being similarly
reserved for the Daimyo of the
province. The place jjossesses
many other art treasm-es in the
shape of gold lacquer boxes, in-
cense-sniffing utensils (see article

entitled "Incense Parties" in
Things Japanese), ancient bells and
toJcko, and above aU, JcaJcemonos
by Kose-no-Kanaoka, Kobo Daishi,
Cho Densia, Sesshu, and other
highly venerated old masters.

A spare half -day at Kotohira may
well be devoted to the scramble
up Zozu-san for the sake of the
splendid \dew. One should walk
right along the ridge, about 1 m.,
to the highest point.

About 1^ ri S.E. of Kompira
(mostly practicable by jinrikisha)
lies a large artificial lake — a re-
servoir for purposes of irrigation —
called Alano no ilce, made by an
earthen dam some 70 ft. high.
There is a good view of the plain
on one side, and of the bare hills
bordering the province of Awa on
the other, from the heights sur-
rounding this old-fashioned, but
creditable, piece of engineering.

The speediest way back from
Kompira to the mainland is to
take train to Tadotsu, and thence
steamer. Those with more leisure
might like to wander further west
to Matsuyama and D5go, in which
case they would avail themselves
of the Itinerary given below as
far as Saijo, whence by the first
l^art of Eoute 48 taken in the
reverse direction.

3. — The Coast fkom Tadot.s0
TO Matsuyama.

The coast road to the south and
west of Tadotsu lies off the usual
lines of travel, because aff'ording
few special objects of interest.
The views both of land and sea are,
however, delightful throughout,
and the way mostly excellent as
far as Saijo, where the main road
leaves the coast. The finest sec-
tion is between Wadahama and
Kawanoe, where it is built up from
the water's edge with buttressing
piers, which project from 50 to
100 ft. into the sea. Much of the
rest is up and down, but jinrildshas
are practicable.

444

Route 48. — North- Western Shikoku.

Itinerary.

TADOTSU to :— Bi Cho M.

Kami Takase 3 3 Ih

Jige 1 25 4

Kwannonji 1 10 3

Wadahama 1 28 4c\

KAWANOE 2 28 6|

MisMma 1 13 3^

Doi 3 6 7J

Izumi_-kawa 3 11 8

SAI.JO 3 5 7J

Nibiikawa 3 8 7f

Sakari 3 3 7J

IMABAEI 1 34 4|

HasMhama 1 24 4^

Kikuma 4 11 10^

H6j5 2 30 6|

]VIATSUYAiVL\ 4 4 10

Total 42 29 1C4|

The best inns are at Wadahama,
Ka"waDoe, Doi, Siimi-no-miira, Saijo,
Imabari, and Matsuyama.

Information about some of the
places on the above Itinerary will
be found in the next two Eontes.

ROUTE 48.

Noeth-Westebn Shieoku.

mitsu-ga-hama, matsutama, and
baths op dogo. saijo. ishi-

ZUCHI-TAMA. AISrTIMO>rS- MINE OF
ICHINOKAWA. COPPER MINE OF
BESSHI.

Itinerary.

(EaU from ilitsu-ga-hama to Matsu-
yama in J hr.) *

MATSUYAMA to :— Hi Cho M.

Kume 1 29 4^

Kawakami 2 25 6-J

Kuriimi 4 14 10|

Komatsu 2 23 6J

SAIJO 2—5

Niihama (about) 3 18 8^

Total 17 1 42i

Eail to Besshi, 14 miles.

The two most interesting por-
tions of Shikoku being the north-
eastern and north-western corners,
it is generally most convenient to
approach the latter by sea.

Mitsu-ga-liama, popularly
called Mitsu {Inn, *Kubota), may
be reached by steamer either from
Osaka and eastern Inland Sea ports
via Hiroshima in the province of
AM, or from the ports of Beppu
and (Jita in the island of Kyushu,
there being constant communica-
tion in every direction. Only when
the west mnd blows is Takahama
(fair accommodation), a smaller
port round a point farther to the
eastward, preferred by seamen.
jVIitsu-ga-hama is the most con-
venient starting-point for travel in
North- Western Shikoku. A minia-
ture line of railway — the train run-
ning every hour — connects ilitsu-
ga-hama with Matsuyama.

The schedule of the railway run-
ning round and into Matsuyama is
as follows : —

Distance

from

Mitsu-ga-hama

Names of Stations

2f m.
4^m.

(Takahama)

Mitsu-ga-hama
Komachi Jet.
Togawa (Matsu-
yama)

This is a pretty little journey
across the mountain-girt plain, in
whose centre rises the wooded hill
crowned by Matsuyama castle,
which comes in view before reach-
ing the intermediate station of
Komachi. As i\Iatsuyama is a quiet
place, and the hot springs of Dogo,
21 cho distant fi'om it at the foot
of the hills, offer superior attrac-
tions, many Japanese prefer to go
by train to Komachi, where they
change into the Dogo line, or
else take jinrikishas, according as
trains may or may not suit. The
stations on this second miniature

Matsuyama Castle. Dogo.

445

Jine are Komachi, Kiyamaclii, Dogo,
and Matsuyama (station near
castle) : — trains twice an hour.
European travellers might iind it a
good plan to let their guide go on
to Dogo and get food ready, while
they themselves stay a few hours
at Matsuyama to visit the castle.

Matsuyama (Inns, Kido-ya,
Shio-ya), capital of the province of
lyo, is a clean, neat town remark-
able for its Castle, formerly the seat
of a Daimyd named Ilisamatsu.
Permission to visit it can be obtain-
ed by aj)plying at the Prefecture
(Kencho), between the hours of 9
and 4.

Originally founded in the year 1C03, it
passed in 1635 into the hands of the Hisa-
matsu family, who were kinsmen of the
Tokugawa Shoguns. The structure in its
present shape is much more modern, the
17th century building having been acci-
dentally detroyed by fire in 1841, but the
style of architecture faithfully preserves
the ancient type of the Japanese " keep "
{tetishu] and outer bastions. Uuriug the
peaceful days of the Tokugawa regime,
the Dainiyo, finding residence in the
castle inconvenient, usually lived in a
mansion in the town, where also his
retainers occupied a special quarter, —
not in barracks (nagaya), as in Yedo and
elsewhere, but in separate dwelling-
houses. When all the feudal castles were
taken over by the Imperial Military
Department in the early days of the
present reign, this one had the luck to
be seleited, together with a very few
others, as a specimen for preservation.
The building is not now devoted to any
practical use, the military detachment
quartered at Matsuyama being lodged in
barracks in the town .

The castle occupies an almost
impregnable position, commanding
the whole surrounding country.
The walls are all of granite, which
makes the superstructure of wood
and plaster look somewhat flimsy
and theatrical. Three gates admit
the visitor into the inner precincts,
and the building itself has three
storeys. The top affords a magni-
ficent panorama. From the north
window we perceive the sea, M'ith
the mainland of Japan in the dim
distance, and turning eastwards
Takanawa-yama rising above lesser
pine-clad hills. From the east

window we look at the vill. of Dogo
and lofty Yimoyama, still loftier
Ishizuchi-yama rising to its r., and
continuing on into a long range of
which the portion to the extreme
r. is Kumayama, while immediate-
ly in front of us he a part of the
town of Matsuyama and the long
avenue bordering the course of the
Ishite-gawa. On the south side
are the town and the straight new-
road that leads over Kumayama to
Kochi, capital of the province of
Tosa, besides many mountains of
which the highest is Kannan-zan
near the town of Ozu, and the long
thin promontory that has to be
doubled by ships bound for Uwa-
jima. The most beautiful prospect of
all is on the west, where we have the
islet-studded sea, and on the horizon
the large island of Oshima off the
coast of Suwo. The long straight
road on this side is that leading to
the port of Mitsu-ga-hama, which
place is itself seen, with the island
of Gogoshima behind it, known also
as "the little Fuji" on account of
its shape. Part of the town, too, is
close at hand, well exemplifying one
of the Japanese words for " town,"
joka, whose literal signification is
" beneath the castle," and on each of
the four sides we have the richly
cultivated plain laid out in rice
and other fields, and, quite near
the tUed roofs of the lower por-
tion of the castle itself, rising from
among aged pine-trees.

Dogo (Inns, *Funa-ya, Chakin),
as already indicated, is almost in-
variably prefen-ed to Matsuyama
by Japanese travellers visiting these
parts. Indeed it is, next to Kom-
pira, the favourite place in Shikoku
on account of its mineral springs,
excellent inns, and pretty park.
The baths, which are public, are of
three different degrees of strength,
the two stronger being resorted to
by patients suffering from cutane-
ous diseases, while the weakest
(Ichi-no-yu) is patronised by pleas-
ure-seekers in good health, so that

446

Boute. 48. — North- Western Shikoku.

no unpleasantness need be appre-
hended from bathing in it.

Dogo is probably the most ancient spa
in the empire. According to the Japanese
mythology, two gods— Onamuji and Su-
kuna-bikona — bathed here, and their
example was followed by five Mikados
from the legendary period downwards.
Earthquakes have interrupted, but never
entirely stopped, the flow of .sulphur
water, which, however, is not forthcom-
ing in sufficient quantities to permit of
its being led in to the various inns and
private houses.

At Dogo one may purchase
specimens of the pretty white fai-
ence (Tohe-yaki) manufactured at
Tobe, a Till. 4 ri distant, on the
other side of the Matsuyama plain,
on the new road leading over into
the province of Tosa.

Prom Matsuyama or Dogo to
Saijo there is a choice of routes.
One may either go by sea to the
neighboiu-ing port of

Imabari or Imaharu (Inn,
Yoshi-chii), an old castle-town
picturesquely situated at the en-
trance to the narrowest channel
of the Inland Sea, and thence
by jiniikisha for the rest of the
way, 8 ri 8 cho, with only one hill
at which it is necessary to alight
and walk ; or else one may go
the whole way by land, following
the itinerary given on p. 444, — 13 n
19 cho. This distance can be ac-
complished in one day by taking
a jiniikisha with two coolies ; and
it is inexpedient to break the jour-
ney, as the country inns on the
■way are bad. The day"s joiu-ney
falls naturally into three divisions
of about 4i ri each. The first
section reaching as far as Kawa-
kami is flat, and affords pretty
views of high mountains to the r.
and of lower hills to the 1. A feature
of this part of the road is the im-
mense dry river-bed called Yoko-
gawara. In the second section
we plunge among the hills,
and must constantly alight and
walk. There is little distant Aiew ;
but at one point — -the highest of all
and just half-way — there is a pic-

turesque gorge with fantastic rocks,
where a small copper mine called
Chiwara is passed. The third section
of the road, from Kurumi to Saij5,
hes over a plain bordering the
Inland Sea, largely devoted to the
cultivation of the vegetable wax-
tree. The broad and generally dry
bed of the Kamogawa is crossed
before entering

Saijo {Inn, O Sakana-ya). This
quiet town stands a little way in-
land, many acres of ground ha\'ing
been reclaimed from the sea within
recent times and turned into lice-
fields. The long sea-wall, which
has been built to protect these iields,
commands a pretty view. Saijo
is the best starting-point for the
ascent of Ishizuchi-yama, whose
local deity is worshipped at the
large temple of Mae-kami-ji, 20 cho
W. of the town.

[The expedition to Ishizuch.i-
yama, the highest mountain
in Shikoku, 6,480 ft., takes
three days and two nights,
these latter being spent at the
hamlet of Kurokaica, 7 H from
the summit, that is, one night
before making the ascent and
the other on returning down-
wards. There is no hut higher
up to stay at. Parts of the
climb are very arduous, so that
in three places chains are hung
to help pilgrims up. The sum-
mit is a flat rock, — on which
a miniatme shrine has been
raised, — formerly Buddhist but
now Shinto. The view is
magnificent, including almost
all Shikoku except on the Tosa
side, the Inland Sea with its
islands, and the province of
Bizen on the mainland beyond.
— Kame-g-a-mori is another
high mountain to be ascended
from Saijo. the first part of the
way being the same as that up
Ishizuchi - yama. Near the
summit is a small copper mine,
where one may make shift to
spend the night.]

Mines of Besshi.

447

The neighbourhood of Saijo pos-
sesses some noted mines. The
antimony mine of Ichinokawa is
only 1 ri 26 cho rUstant, about half
of which can be done in jinrikisha.
Visitors are politely received, and
may occupy half a day over the
expedition. The crystals of anti-
mony here produced are among the
most beautiful in the world. The
Metallurgical Works {Seirenjo) are
in the town.

Until the recent Europeanisation of
their country, the Japanese remained
comparatively ignorant of the value of
antimony, and used it only in minute
quantities for marking oS the weights
(me) on scales, vrhence its old native
name of shiro-'ine. It is now called an-
chimonii, a corruption of the English
word, and the metal is largely exported.

From Niihama (Inn, Senju-tei), a
visit may be made to the more
ancient and important Copper
Mine of Besshi, 14 m. distant, by
a railway belonging to Messrs. Su-
mitomo, the proprietors of the
mine. After a 6^ m. run, the station
of Hateba is reached, whence to
Ishi-ga-sanjo is 1 hr. on foot or
in kago. There train is again
taken for 4J m. to Kado-ishiwara,
40 min. In this section the line
runs up the rugged sides of the
mountain, with the steep gradient
of 1 in 18. From Kado-ishiwara to
the mine is only 1 m., which can be
done by jinrikisha. The inspection
of this important establishment is
strongly recommended to such as
take an interest in the industrial
development of Japan ; and even
those whose sole object in travel-
ling is the enjoyment of the pictur-
esque, will find ample reward for
their climb in the contrast to the
smiling scenery of the shores of the
Inland Sea which is afforded by the
grim, desolate rocks of the metal-
liferous mountain. At the same
time, there are lovely views on the
way up and down.

The plan for any one starting,
say, from Saijo is to visit the
Niihama Smelting and Refining
Works in the forenoon — (they are

situated on the coast opposite the
small island of Miyoshima)— climb
uj) to Besshi in the afternoon, and
sleep at the restaurant in the min-
ing village ; then, on the second
day, go through the mine in the
morning, and descend after lun-
cheon, sleeping either at Tatsukawa
or perhaps at Izumi-gawa on the
main road, and thence proceeding
west to Saijo, or east towards the Yo-
shino-gawa valley (see next Eoute).
Another plan — perhaps the best
— ^is to avail oneself of the little
steamer which the proprietor of the
mine sends daily across to Onomi-
chi, a port on the north shore of
the Inland Sea (see p. 419), which is
also a station on the Sanyo Rail-
way, affording the easiest means of
getting back to Kobe. Warm cloth-
ing should not be forgotten ; for
Besshi lies near the summit of a
steep gorge at an altitvide of fi'om
4,000 to 4,400 ft., and the excessive
radiation due to the absence of aU
vegetation helps to make the nights,
and even at certain seasons the
days, bitterly cold.

The Besshi Mine, which had been
worked in a small way for over a century
before, came in the year 1691 into the
hands of the Sumitomo family, who rank
among Japan's few millionaires. The
mine itself is the second largest copper
mine in the country, the largest being
that at Ashio, described on p. 216. The
ore yields 9 per cent of pure copper.
Besshi is entirely under Japanese manage-
ment, though this statement should be
qualified by the remark that one of the
managers was educated in Germany, and
that since about 1882 German machinery
and Germau methods generally have
been introduced to a considerable extent.
The miners number some 8,000 men,
women, and children, of whom 80 per
cent have been born, as were their fathers
and grandfathers before them, on the
spot, so that the mine is, in every sense,
a family concern. They are well-cared
for by the proprietor, fed, sent to school
till the age of twelve, and tended in a
hospital when bick. There is also at
Besshi a technical school for the instruc-
tion of clerks and overs^rs. Only men
are employed to dig out the ore. These
work in three shifts of 8 hours each,
while others, whose labour is of a lighter
description, work in two shifts of 12
hours each. The women are employed

448

Route Ad.— Valler/ of the Yoshino-gaiva.

only for light tasks above-ground. Most
of them are the wives of miners, each
member of a family thus gaining liis or
her own livelihood independently. Work
is carried on constantly, day and night,
the sole holiday being on the Ist of each
month. Before the opening of Japan,
Buch portion of the copper as was not
needed for home consumption is said to
have been sold to the Dutch at Nagasaki,
and by them exported to the Indies
(Java?), where the natives employed it
to manufacture cooking utensils. At the
present day most of the output, about
4,000 tons per annum, finds its way to
London.

ROUTE 49.

Valley of the Yoshino-gawa.

1. fkom izumi-kawa to hakuchi and
toktjshima. 2. feom besshi to

HAKUCHI.

The Yoshino-gawa — the largest
river in the island of Shikokii — is
formed by the junction of two
main branches, — a northern one
rising near the copper mines of
Besshi in the province of lyo,
and a southern flowing down from
the eastern flank of Ishizuchi-
yama in Tosa. The rapids of the
main river, after the union of the
two streams, form the principal
attraction of this route. Section 1
is the easier of the two, though
even there the traveller must be
prejmred to dispense for a time
with good roads and luxurious
inns. Section 2 is very rough
indeed, and not to be recommend-
ed except to the stiirdiest pedes-
trian accustomed to roughing it in
the Japanese wilds.

1, — Feom Izumi-kawa to Hakuchi
and tokushima.

Itinerary.

IZUMI-KAWA:— M Chd 31.

Doi(Idake) 3 11 8

Mishima 3 6 7f

Kamibu 1 — 2J

(Negio 2 18 6

Sano 1 18 ^1

^-g Hakuchi 2 15 6

|ajlkeda(by boat)... 1 — 2J

Jg jShuzu „ „ 22 IJ

2 S, Hashilmra-ji 18 li

=>i|Hirvima 24 lif

WAKIMACHI

^ (by boat) 7 28 19

Total .24 16 60

Whence 1^ hr. by rail to Toku-
shima.

[The distances by road (along the
r. bank of the Yoshino-gawa,
as soon as that river is reach-
ed) from Kawanoe on the In-
land Sea to Wakimachi are
officially stated as follows :

KAWANOE to :— Bi Cho 3L

Negio 2 28 6|

Ikeda 5 15 13^^

Higashi Inokawa 1 26 4^

Eguchi 2 9 5|

Sadamitsu 2 21 6^

WAKIMACHI ... 3 — 7i

Total 17 27 43^]

The vill. of Isumi-kawa (see first
Itinerary on p. 444) has been
chosen as the starting-point, simp-
ly because it is thought that those
travelling by it will probably com-
bine it with a \isit to the Besshi
copper mine. JinrUdshas are avail-
able as far as Kamibu. The rest
must be done on foot, excepting
those portions marked "by boat"
in the Itinerary.

On leaving Izumi-kawa, the
road leads aniong the wooded hil-
locks that here rise between what
may be termed the Besshi range of

Izumi-kawa to Iked a. The Rapids.

449

mountains and the sea. At the
hamlet of Sekinoto, the top of a
hill, which it is necessary to walk,
aflfords a charming glimpse of the
Inland Sea, and beyond it to the 1.
the long hog's-back of Z5zu-san, on
which stands the great shrine of
Kompira (see p. MO), to its r. the
two peaks of H5 near Takamatsu,
and straight ahead Hirayama, the
pass which the traveller is about to
cross in order to get over into the
Yoshino-gawa valley. From

Doi (1)171, Matsumoto-ya) on-
wards, the beautiful Inland Sea is
constantly visible, — blue, island-
studded, and fringed by a narrow
plain devoted to the cultivation of
rice and sugar, while on the r. the
mountain spurs descend like the
numberless legs of a centipede.
A short cut for pedestrians to
Hashikura-ji, via the temple of San-
kaku-ji, is passed r. just before
entering the dull town of

Mishima ( Inn, Nagao-ya). Much
paper is produced in this neighboiu'-
hood and further along this route,
from the bark of the kaji tree
(Broussonetia papyrifera).

[From Mishima the highway
leads on for 1 ri 13 cho to
Kawanoe {Inn, Hashimoto-
ya), a town situated on the
shore of the Inland Sea, beyond
some sandy hills. No steamers
call there, and the place offers
nothing of special interest.]
Our road diverges from the Kawa-
noe highway at the hamlet of
Miragi, and turns sharp inland
towards the green mountains. At
Kamibu (Inn, Dailm-ya), the
pedestrian portion of the journey
is entered on, and we cross the
Sakaime-toge, or "Frontier Pass,"
dividing the province of lyo from
that of Awa. The acclivity, except
just at the end, is gentle on the lyo
side and the scenery rather tame.
The prospect improves on the Awa
side, where the vill. of Sano is
reached, and the path follows the
course of a small affluent of the
Yoshino-gawa, perpetually crossing

and recrossing it on stepping-stones
and crazy planks, till we arrive at

Hakuclii (Inn, Hama-ya). This
vill., prettily situated just above the
confluence of the two streams,
forms the starting-point for the
boat journey down the Rapids of
the Yoshino-gawa. In summer
flood- time, when the waters rise
and rage, one might spin down
to Tokushima at the river's mouth
in a single day. At ordinary times
it will take as long to get to Waki-
machi, scarcely more than half that
distance. Moreover there is the
temple of Hashilcura-ji to be
visited, which detour will occupy
some little time. A plan recom-
mended by the inhabitants in late
autumn with a low river, and
followed by the compilers, was to
make a short first day by boating
from Hakuchi to Shtizu (1 hr. 20
min.), there alighting to visit
Hashikiira-ji, and walking down
thence to Hiruma, where a halt for
the night was made, the luggage
and servant having been sent on
there in the boat. Next day, 5i| hrs.
boat down from Hiruma to WaM-
machi, whence the railway may
now be availed of and the more
sluggish half of the river journey
avoided. As a rule, the rapids of
the Y'^oshino-gawa are less exciting
than those near Kyoto or on the
Fujikawa, let alone the Tenryu-
gawa. Still they form an agi-eeable
change in the routine of travel ;
and the scenery, with high hills on
either hand and the water crystal
clear, is soothing and delightful.

Ikeda (Inn, Matsumata), a town
noted for its tobacco, lies on the r.
bank of the river, between the two
best rapids, called respectively
Ikeda-Se and Suwo. The latter
word, which signifies "carmine,"
is said to preserve the memory of
a battle fought here, when the
river ran stained with blood. Just
after shooting No. 4, we come in
\iew of what looks more like a
castle than a temple, high up on
the hill to the 1.; then comes rapid

450

Route 49. — Valley of the Yoshino-gaiva .

No. 5, and we land at Shuzu for
the 18 rho ascent to this landmark,
which is the celebrated shrine of

Hasliikura-j i, dedicated to the
Gongen of Kompira. There is an
Inn here, called Maru-nra.

The curious name Ilashi-kwa-ji, which
means literally " chopstick store-house
temple," is accounted for by a legend to
the effect that Kobo Daishi, when he
came to open u]} this fUstrict and bring
it into subjection to Buddha, first exorcis-
ed a troupe of demons, and was then met
by the god KomiJira, who pointed out to
him a cave in the mountain side, which
was set apart as a godown or store-house
for the reception of the innumerable
chopsticks used in the presentation of
food offerings by the faithful at the neigh-
bouring shrine on Zozu-san (commonly
called Kompira or Kotohira, after the
god's own name). Kobo Daishi forthwith
erected a sumptuous temple on the spot,
as an Oku-no-in, or holy of holies, connect-
ed with the shrine of Kompira. This was
in A.D. 828. A great fire destroyed most
of Hashikura-ji's grandeur about 1825.
Little seems to have been then done in
the way of repair ; and under the strait-
ened circumstances of Buddhism in the
Japan of to-day, reconstruction can only
be proceeded with at a very slow rate.
The temple hag, however, been fortunate
in escaping the fate of most of those
dedicated to Gongens : it has not been
handed over to Shinto "purifiers," and
it is said to have profited of late years at
the expense of Kompira, because the
people prefer Buddhist to Shinto worship.
The great annual festival is celebrated
on the 12th November. There is a lesser
one on the 12th March.

The steep way up to the priests'
residence is tirst along an avenue of
cherry-trees, and then through a
wood. The view from the top is ex-
tensive. The principal temple
stands still higher iip and is called
Chinju no Do, because dedicated to
the tutelary (chinju) deity, Kompira
Dai Gongen.

After finishing our inspection of
the temple, we descend the hill
and reach the vill. of

Hiruma (Tim., Shildji-ya), where
boat is again taken for a delightful
half-day down the river. The best
rapid, called Knma-ze, or "the
Cauldron," is soon reached, after
which Tsuji, a good-sized vill., is

seen on the r. bank. From here
on for some 10 cho, the bank is
lined by boulders of a greenish
grey schist and by cherry-trees and
azalea bushes, which, with the high
lulls on either side and the swift,
limpid stream, make the scene
resemble a Japanese landscape
garden, especially in April when
the blossoms are out. The valley
opens out very gi'adually, and there
come broad white stony beaches,
two of which large flocks of crows
have from time immemorial ap-
propriated as bathing-jilaces, — a
curious sjjectacle. At the vill. of
Sadamitsu, just before shooting one
of the rapids, there is a welcome
break in the hills r., admitting a
ghmpse of higher mountains fur-
ther south in the direction of lofty
Tsurugi-san. Those with plenty of
time to spare might ahght here to
visit the waterfall of JDogamn Imru
Taki, about 1 ri distant, which is
beheved by the simple country-
folk to have an " owner " (nushi),
that is a resident deity, who
assumes the form of a serpent. In
this part of the river small trout
(ai) may often be seen in great
numbers. The mountainous dis-
trict to the r. during the gi'eater
part of this day's voyage is called
Tya (whence the name of the river
lya-gawa). This district is noted
for two things, — tobacco and (so at
least say their kind neighbours)
the boorish stupidity of its in-
habitants.

Wakimaclii (Inn, Inahara) is a
town of considerable size. The
railway Hne follows the opposite or
r. bank of the river, passing through
Kamoshima, Ishii, and other smaller
places. After Kamoshima the hills
retire on either side, the river and
the plain both widen, and a long
succession of villages leads to

Tokush.ima (see p. 438). It is
best to aiTange so as to reach this
town during the forenoon, in order
to have a few hours for seeing it,
as the steamers hence to Kobe
always leave late at night.

Route 50. — From Matnuyama to Uwajima.

451

2. — Fbom Besshi to Hakuchi.

Approximate Itinerary.

BESSHI to :— Ri M.

Tomizato 6|- 15f

Oku-no-in 4 J 11

Shinritsu l" 2J

Yamashiro-dani 3 1\

HAKUCHI 3 7}

Total 18 44

Tomizato and Shinritsu have poor
inns, and Oku-no-in has snch ac-
commodation as a country temple
can afford. The path is very rough,
but the mountainous region trav-
ersed is picturesque. The trip may
be accoiuplished in two days by
making an early start. From Haku-
chi onwards, the itinerary of Sec-
tion 1 of this route is followed
through less difficult country down
to Tokushima.

ROUTE 50.

Wksteen Shtkokd fbom Matsu-
YAMA TO Uwajima.

Itinerary.

MATSUYAMA to :— Ri Cho M.

Gunchu 3 11 8

Nakayama 4 2 10

Uchinoko 3 34 9J

Niiya 1 22 4

OZU 1 29 4J

Unomachi 5 9 12|

Yoshida 3 4 7*

UWAJIMA 2 8 5J

Total 25 11 61f

Most of the way is rough and
hilly. Train is available between
Matsuyama and Gunchu, jinrild-
shas between Uchinoko and Ozu,
and for the latter part of the way

to Unomachi from a hamlet called
Higashi Tada; but the rest must
be done on foot, the whole journey
requiring 2 days. Another plan is
to take steamer from Mitsu-ga-
hama, the port of Matsuyama (see
p. 415), either the whole way to
Uwajima, which will occupy about
24 hrs., various small ports being
touched at on the way, or else only
as far as the port of Nagahama,
whence by road up the valley of
the Hijikawa to Ozu, and on by the
Itinerary given above.

Ozu {Inns, Nagato-ya, Abura-ya)
is a neat town situated in a plain
surrounded by high hills, and own-
ing an ancient castle.

Yoshida [Tnn, Imabari-ya), too,
was once the seat of a small
Daimyo.

Uwajima {Inn, Imura-ya)

This quiet, old-fashioned place was the
seat of a branch of the Date family
remarkable alike for its talents and its
longevity. — An ancient ciistom forbids
the catching of whales ou this part of
the coast, because they are supposed to
perform the useful service of driving the
sardines towards the land. So high is
the esteem in which the sardines of
Uwajima are held, that iu feudal days a
special boat laden with them was sent
yearly as an oflering to the Shogun at
Yedo.

retains the ruins of a small castle
called Tsurushima Jo, standing on
a low, densely wooded hill, the
summit of which occupies an area
of some 10 cho square. Visitors are
admitted to it only on Sundays.
The view from the hill embraces
S.E., Oni-ga-j6, a mountain 3,600
ft. high; N.W., Kushima-yama ;
N.E., Izumi-ga-mori ; N., Jishikoku-
yama. On this latter mountain
stand eighty-eight images of Kobo
Daishi, representing the Eighty-
eight Holy Places founded by him
in Shikoku. A visit to them is
considered equivalent to making
the entire lengthy pilgrimage.

These Eighty-eight Holy Places (Shikoku
Hachi-ju Hafc-ka-sho) play a prominent
part in the religious life of the island of
Shikoku, over every district of which they

452

Route 51. — Ways to and from Kochi.

are scattered, bands of pilgrims being
constantly on the move from one to the
other. The temxsles are dedicated to vari-
ous Buddhist deities. The pilgrims carry
a little cloth to sit on [shiri-Uuhe), which
anciently formed part of the simple
luggage of all wayfarers, a double thin
wooded board {fuda-ba.ii'jni) serving to
hold the visiting cards which they jiaste
to the doors or pillars of each shiine, and
a small straw sandal worn — of all ex-
traordinary ijlace.s — at the back of the
neck, and intended to symbolise that
great saint and traveller, Kobo Daishi, in
whose footsteps they follow.

Some little distance from the
castle, stands a TUla belonging to
the Date family, and containing a
small but beautiful Japanese land-
scape garden. The public are
permitted to "dew it in spring,
when the white and purple wistarias
are in bloom. The favourite escur-
sion from Uwajima is to the water-
falls of Nametoko, about 2 ri dis-
tant by a very steep path. There
are three piincipal falls and nu-
merous smaller ones.

KOUTE 51.

Ways to axd fkom Kochi.

1. the city and envikoxs. 2. from
matsttyama oe dogo to kochi.

3. FEOil KOCHI TO KOTOHIEA.

4. the coast eoab feom toku-
shtma to kochi. 5. feom uwa-
jima to kochi.

1. — The City and Envieons.

Kochi (Inns, *Emmei-ken, Kiya),
capital of the prefecture of the same
name and of the province of Tosa,
is a large city standing in a plain
almost surrounded by ranges of
hills, even on the side towards
the sea. This and its deep double
bay give it a highly picturesque
situation, which the traveller

should admire from the top of the
Castle hill, — chiefly for the land
view, — and fi-om the Aoyagi-hashi
bridge for the delightful view of the
bay and lower-lying land. Of the
Castle there remain the imposing
walls and one turret : — admittance
to the latter on national holidays.
]\Iost of the local government
biaildings cluster at its foot. In the
opposite dii'ection, beyond Aoyagi-
bashi, 1 m. from the inn, stands a
hill called Godai-san crowned by
the ancient Buddhist monastery of
Chikiuinji, one of the Eighty-eight
Holy Places of Sbikoku. A Shint5
shrine (Shokoasha), stands hard by,
dedicated to the memory of loyal
warriors who fell in the Satsuma
EebeUion. Kochi is noted for its
breed of long-tailed fowls, the tail
feathers of some of which attain to
the extraordinary length of 12 ft.,
while the feathers of the body are
4 ft. Coral is found off the coast at
a distance of 60 or 70 m. to the
westward. The harbovu.- of SusaM in
that dii'ection is better than Kochi,
and affords fan- accommodation.

The best walk (2 hrs.) fi-om Kochi
is to the top of Wo.shio-yama, a hill
l,50u ft. high, commanding a beauti-
ful view. On the other side of the
Kagami-gawa, lies the buiial-place
of the lords of Tosa. Three miles
to the X.E. of Kochi is the water-
fall of Takimoto, accessible by jin-
rikisha. The citizens often make
boating excursions down the land-
locked bay.

Owing to the length and moun-
tainous character of the ways
thither by land, Kochi is usually
approached by steamer from Osaka,
touching at Kobe. The steamers
are fairly good, and the passage
talces IG hrs., but south-easterly
winds not infi-equently cause de-
tention ; and the shallowness of
the bay necessitates waiting for the
tide and a subsequent long transit
in small boats to the shore. For
other details regarding the steamer
serdce, see p. 413.

From Maisuyama to Kochi.

453

2. — Feom Matsutama ok Dogo

TO KOCHI.

Itinerary.
(From Dogo IJ m. more)
MATSUYAMA to :— Bi Cho M.

Topof the Misaka... 5 — 12'j

Kumamachi 2 11 5|

Naru (Hinoura) 4 9 lOJ

Yanai-gawa 1 H 3^

Kuzu 1 15 ^

KawagticM 5 25 14"

3?'iless|Ochi(byboat)4 — 9|

by road ( Ino „ , 8 — 19A

KOCHI 2 24 6J

Total 34 23 8U

Time, 3 days ; but taking jinriki-
sha the whole way instead of boat,
2 days. Road excellent throughout,
except up the Misaka. From
Matsuyama to the top of the Misaka
there is an alternative new road
{Shindo), 2 ri longer ; but it in-
volves more walking and is rarely
taken even by jinrildshas.

The intending pedestrian may
help himself over the first 3 m.
of plain by availing of a small line
of railway which joins Matsuyama
and Morimatsu, not far from the
foot of the pass. Those who travel
by jinrildsha must engage such at
Matsuyama or Dogo for the whole
way to Kawaguchi, as none can be
procured en route, except possibly
at Kumamachi. Instead of boat
from Kawaguchi, one may continue
on by jinrikisha the whole way
into Kochi,— distance from Kawa-
guchi, 7 ri. Jinrikishas can be
procured at Ino for the final staqe.
Fair accommodation at Kumamachi
and Ochi, poor at the other villages.
The journey is a pretty one, first
across the wide, cultivated plain of
Matsuyama, then up the very steej)
Misaka for 1 ri on foot till a
height of 2,400 ft. is reached, -with
nice views looldng backwards of
plain, and sea, and islands. This
is the sole climb on the whole
route, as the rest of the way to

Kochi is continuously downhill, at
first through a rich and smiling
upland, then, after Kumamachi,
down the steep, green, narrow
valley of the Miyodo-gawa, which
grows sterner in aspect, the hills
walling it in higher, the rocks of
gi-aphite schist mor^ picturesque,
as one goes on:— the wayfarer
would deem himself climbing
towards gi'eater elevations rather
than descending towards the sea.
Before partial deforestation had
done its disfiguring work, the scene
must have been more impressive
stUl. Such hamlets and solitary
homesteads as appear from time to
time, are mostly perched high up
on narrow uplands near the hill-
tops. Rice cultivation being impos-
sible owing to the abruptness of the
mountain walls, the peasants grow
quantities of maize, which produces
a curious effect in autumn when
the cobs are hung up to dry
in reddish yellow masses on large
square frames. Fish-traps formed
by fences across the stream are
another feature. The river-bed is
littered _ with white boulders,
alternating with deep-green placid
pools where fishermen angle for
trout. At Yanai-gawa, a feny leads
over to the 1. bank. After Kuzu,
where a small bridge marks the
boundary of the provinces of lyo
and Tosa, the white foliated stone
is mostly replaced by red with
occasional traces of marble. But
the scenery preserves its character.
Mile after mile the same green
abruptness with hamlets perched
high overhead, the same precipitous
side valleys with little waterfalls
from time to time, the same
picturesque rockery, the same
perfectly clear stream, — scenery
which nothing can ever weU alter,
as no railway can be carried along a
valley so precipitous and so isolated.
At Kawagxichi, boats are in wait-
ing. Copper may be seen here,
brought down fi-om the mine of
Yami, 5 ri up an affluent to the
north. The trip down the swift,

454

Route 51. — Ways to and from Kochi.

limpid river, with pretty white
rocks, and high hilly M-alls, and
restfiil green, and frequent small
rapids down to the very end, is easy
and pleasant. One may either do
the whole distance to Ino in one
day by starting early, or else con-
veniently breaii it at Ochi, which is
the best village after Kumamachi,
and where other boats will be
found. Ino is a prosperous place,
the headquarters of a considerable
paper trade.

3. — 'AcBoss Shikoku from Kochi

TO KOTOHIBA.

liinerary.

KOCHI to:— Ei Cho M.

Eyoseki 3 28 9J-

Shigeta 2 34 7^

Sugi 3 9 8

Otaguchi 2 16 6

Okubo 2 8 5^

Kammyo 2 — 5

Kawaguchi 2 30 7

Hakuchi 2 3" 5

IKEDA 1 — 2^

Inohana 3 19 8|

Togawa 2 20 6^

KOTOHIRA 2 23 ^

Total 31 10 761

The journey is said to be some-
times accomplished in jinrikisha
with two coolies in 2 days, but this
must be difficult. It is an easy 3
days' journey with one coolie to the
jinrildsha, walking the hills and bad
places. The nights' halts are then
made at Otaguchi and at Ikeda,
both of which places have fair inns.
Kawaguchi, too, is fail' ; the other
places are very poor.

Leaving Kochi, we find the road
excellent and liat and the landscape
composed of a cultivated phiin and
multitudes of hills all around. Just
after Bydseki a gradual incUne, the
Xebiki-zaka, 1^ to 2 ri long, takes
us up to TaMmoto, 1,120 ft. high,
whence the descent is continuous,
first down an affluent of the south-

ern branch of the Yoshino-gawa,
and then down that river itself.
The scenery is pleasantly rural,
green hills bordering the valley on
either side. The prettiest bit of the
first day's joiu-ney is soon after
Shirjetb, where great rocks, and
gi'een trees, and the white stems of
dead trees, and clear green pools of
placid water combiae to form a
landscape garden on a large scale.
The Yoshiiw-fjaica is reached and
crossed by ferry at Ananai, about 1
m._before _

Otaguchi (Tnn, OriMchi). The
river, here still quite small, widens
out near the frontier of the province
of Awa at Okubo. Very curious is
the persistently laminated charac-
ter of the rock all down this valley,
so that often one might mistake
rocks for petrified tree trunks.
Below Kammyo masses of white
rock hem the stream in, and above
the traveller's head rise cUffs,
wooded though precipitous. In
such places the road is carried along
on waUs built out from the chS
side. All this neighbourhood is
very striking, but the road hable
to injui-y from sliding debiis. At
Kawaguchi the two branches of the
Yoshino-gawa join ; soon, too, the
Matsuo-gawa fiows in r. from
another of the countless high, lonely
valleys of this most mountainous
island. The river does not cease to
be picturesqiie, but it becomes much
broader, and loses its rocky charac-
ter by the time we reach the
Hjikuchi feiTy, whence (or fiom
Ikeda) boats descend the rapids, as
described on p. 449. (Some travellers
might prefer to do that trip rather
than continue on by the present
route to Kotohira. It is a question
between the respective attractions
of the rapids and of the Kompira
shrines.) 1-Yom

Ikeda (//<;(, Matsmuata), the first
mile and a half leads down the
r. bank of the river and across
the ferry to Shiim, with the temple
of Hashikura-ji glistening white on
the high hill opposite (description.

Tokushima and Uwajima to Kochi.

455

on p. 450). The pedestrian may visit
it without adding anything to his
day's distance ; but the jiniikisha
road bi'anches away to the 1. vip a
more gradual incline. The hills are
high in all this district, the valleys
deep, the scenery rather grim though
green. Inohana is a mere hamlet
at the top of a pass nearly 3 ri long
and about 1,550 ft. high, whence
there is a continuous descent the
whole way to Torjawa, short cuts
saving a large percentage of the
distance. From Togawa the way
undulates on to Kotohira, and the
cone of the Fuji of Sanuki and
other gi-acefully shaped luountains
that come in sight introduce us to
scenery of quite a ditferent charac-
ter from that of either of the two
precethng days of the journey.
For the shrines of
Kotohira or Zompira, see p. 441.

4. — Coast Eoad peom Tokushima

TO KOCHI.

Itinerary.

TOKUSHIMA to :— Ri Cho M.

Komatsu-jima 2 19 6^

Ha-no-ura 2 13 5|

Tomioka 1 15 3^

Kuwano 2 5 5^^

Shimo Fukui 1 31 4?

Yugi 2 17 g"

Hiwasa 2 25 6.^

Mugi 4 17 ll"

Asakawa 2 8 5^

Shishikui 3 4 7^-

Kan-no-ura 1 24 4

None . 1 30 4^

Sakihama 3 24 9

LTkitsu 4 8 10|-

Kirakawa 2 3 5

Nabari 3 26 9

Yasuda ... 1 6 2^^

Aki 3 2 Ih

Wajiki 2 17 6

Akaoka 2 15 6

Gomen (Ino) 2 21 6|-

KOCHI 3 31 9^-

Total 58 1 141J

Rail may be availed of as far as
Komatsu-jima, and 17 or 18 m. may
be saved by taking a cross-road
between None and Nabari. There
is also a short cut from Akaoka to
Kochi. Kemcmber that in this, as
in some other sections of the pre-
sent route, the accommodation is
mostly interior, few Japanese tra-
vellers ever visiting districts so
remote.

5. — From Uwajima to Kochi.

Itinerary.

UWAJIMA to :— Ri Cho M.

Yoshino 5 — 12^

Shimoyama 2—5

Ono 5 21 13J

Tanono 4 15 10$

Kubokawa fi 29 16^

Niita 1 17 ^

Kure 3 25 9

Susaki 3 8 7|

Ichinono 2 24 G^

Takaoka 4 — 9f

Ino 1 17 3|

KOCHI 2 34 1\

Total 43 10 105J

Very little of this road is prac-
ticable for jinrikishas, nor are the
inns good. Part of the way along
the Shimanto-gaica is picturesque.

An easier but longer alternative
is to go roimd by the coast road,
passing through i<ulcumo and Naka-
mura. Small steamers may be
availed of here and there.

I "7 °*

iiti 4-i

^'1 %e

SECTION VL

KYUSHU AND OUTLYING
ISLANDS.

(Routes ^2 — 64.

.S~^ Jftftra>
ktrUit ^ V.

'■*''"'mA., ^a„aS' NACAS^KI .'-4** '^:^^^

'j ■/* ■ /"^

rJToSeto

'/irmaiin, (ff

(S'

'.'>ruAt-fto o^irAt

> ? --^

• /««

FOR Murray's handbook.

TOYOOO ENGRAVING OFflCE TOKYO

Route 52. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood.

459

EOUTE 52.

Nagasaki and NEiGHBOT}rvHooD.

1. (rENEEAL REMARKS ON THE

Island of KyusHil.

Kjijsliii, Htei-ally, "the Nine Provinces,"
derives its name from its ninefold divi-
sion into the provinces of Biizeu, Bungo,
Chiljuzen, Chikugo, Hizen, Higo, Satsuuia,
Osumi, and Hyiiga. This, the most south-
erly of the four large islands of the
Japanese empire, played a prominent
part iu the very earliest national legends,
and has continued to play a great part
in the national history. " It wag hence
that Jiramu Tennci set forth with his
vassals on his career of adventure and
conquest, hence that the great expeditions
of the Empress Jingo Kogo and of Hide-
yoshi against Korea were undertaken and
carried to a suc('efi8ful issue. It was upon
Kyushij that Mendez Pinto and the Portu-
guese missionaries landed ; here, there-
for, that acquaintance was first made with
Europeans, Christianity, flre-arms, and
other matters hitherto unknown to
Chinese civilization. When afterwards,
in the first decade of the 17th century,
the Catholic niissionaries were driven
out and Christianity extirpated, Dutch
merchants managed to gain the favour
and confidence of the powerful Tokugawa,
and so maintain, under humiliating con-
ditions, a commercial monopoly fur
more than two centuries at Nagasaki."*
Under the feudal rule of the Tokugawa
Shoguns, the Daimyo of Satsnma was the
most powerful of their feudatories, and
since the establishment of the new
regime in 18C8, the Satsuma men
have become more powerful than ever,
engrossing the chief offices, both military
and civil. Curiously enough, Kyu.shu,
whose men led Japan towards Euro-
peanisation, has also furnished the
conservatives who on various occasions
have endeavoured to thwart by rebellion
the consolidation of the new order of
things. Details of the Satsuma Rebellion
will be found in Route Gl. — Travellers
will do well to remember that the
Kyushu people generally divide the ri
(2i miles F-nglish), not into 'Ad cho as iu
the rest of the empire, but into 10 fft'i.
One go is therefore almost exactly j mile.

2. — Nagasaki.

Hotels. — Nagasaki Hotel ; Cliff
House ; Bellevue Hotel.

* Quoted, with a few orthographical
emendations, from Dr. Rein's Japan.

Japanese In7is. — Ueno-ya, in Man-
zai-machi; Midori-ya, in Ima-machi.

Restaurants. — JEuropean food : —
Fukii-ya, in Koshima ; Seiyo-tei, in
Nishi Hamano-machi ; Japanese
food : — Fukld-rd, in Suwa Matsu-
no-mori ; Koyo-tei, with good view,
in Kami Cbikugo-machi.

Custom-house and Po-st and Tele-
graph Office. — On the Bund.

Clubs. — Nagasaki Club ; Inter-
national Club.

Banks. — Hongkong and Shang-
hai Bank ; Chartered Bank of In-
dia, Australia, and China (Holme,
Fiinger and Co., Agents).

Churches. — English Church, Me-
thodist Episcopal Chiu-ch, Re-
formed Church of America, Roman
Catholic Church.

Newspaper.- — " Nagasaki Press "
(daily).

Public Hall. — In the Foreign
Settlement.

Theatre. — Maizuru-za, in Shin
Daiku-machi.

Steam Communication. — Japan
Mail Steamship Co. (Nippon Yu-
sen Kwaisha); Peninsular and
Oriental ; Canadian Pacific Mail ;
Occidental and Oriental (Holme,
Ringer and Co.) ; Norddeutscher
Lloyd (C. E. B(]eddinghaus).

Local Steam Communication. —
From Nagasald to Osjdia and Kobe
Till Inland S'ea ports, daily. To
Misumi and Hyalckwan for Kuma-
moto, also daily. To Sasebo, daily.
To the Ooto islands, Hirado, IM,
and Tsushima, weekly. To Kago-
shima, twice weekly. Shipping
Agents: Tsuru-ya, Maru-ya, in
Yedo-machi.

Silk Stores. — Tokushima-ya, in.
Hamano-machi ; Fujise, Shimase,
in Higashi Hamano-machi; Naga-
mi, in Kajiya-machi.

Porcelain Stores. — Koransha, in
Deshima; Hirayama, in Moto-Kago-
machi.

Tortoise - shell. Cloisonne, arid
loory. — Yezaki, in Uono-machi ;
Sakata, Kawasaki-ya, in Moto
Kago-machi ; Nagashima, in Funa-
daiku-machi.

4G0

Route. i)2. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood.

Embroideries. — Hakusni, in Kago-
machi.

Photographs. — Tamemasa, in
Moto-Kago-machi ; Ueno, in Shin
Daiku-maclii; Setsii, in Shin-machi.

Fans, Screens, Toys, etc. — Koda,
Honda-ya, in Moto Kago-machi.

Curios. — Mess and Co., in the
Foreign Settlement ; Nagashima, in
Funa-daiku-machi; Honda-ya, Kyo-
ritsn-sha, Sato, Kaneko in Kago-
machi; Tora-ya, in Megasaki-machi;
Nishida.

Bazaar. — In Moto Shikkui-machi.

History and Tapograplnj, — Nagasaki de-
rives its name from Nagasaki Kotaro, to
whom this district, then called Fukae-no-
ura, was given as a fief by Yoritomo at
the end of the l'2th century. It was a
place of no importance nntil the 16th
century, when the native Christians
migrated thither in considerable numbers,
and it became one of the chief marts of
the Portuguese trade. After the final ex-
pulsion of the Portuguese and Sx^auiards
in 1637, only the Dutch and Chinese were
permitted to carry on a liudted trade here,
until the opening of the country to
foreign intercourse in 1859. The British
community is now the largest, but there
is also a considerable Russian colony.

The native town stretches for about
two miles to the N. of the Settlement.
On the S.W. side lies Deshinia, the site
of the old Dutch factory. The Foreign
Settlement occupies the flat land on the
E. side of the harbour. The private
residences of most of the merchants
stand on the slopes of the hills behind.
At the foot of Inasa-yania on the opposite
side of the harbour are the Engine Works
of Akunoura and two large docks, which,
together with a patent slii) on the E, side
of the harbour, belong to the Mitsubishi
Company.

The harbour, one of the iirettiest in the
Ear East, is a narrow inlet about three
miles in length, indented with numerous
bays and surrounded by wooded hills. It
is thoroughly sheltered, and affords an-
chorage for ships of all classes. The en-
trance does not exceed j m. in width.
The princii^al approach ia from the N.W.,
between a number of islands, those con-
spicuous to the S. being Iwoshima with
its lighthouse, Okishima apjjarently join-
ed to Iwoshima, but in reality separated
from it by a narrow boat passage, Koyaki-
jinia, and Kase-no-ahima, on which last
also stands a lighthouse. On the N. side
of the channel are Kami-no-shima, the
site of an old gun battery, and Takaboko
(Pappenberg). Recent historical criticism
by Dr. L. Itiess, of the Imperial Univer-
sity of Tokyo, would seem to render no

longer tenable the tradition that from
the cliffs of this latter island, less than
three centurie.s ago, thousands of native
Christiana were precipitated because they
refused to tramjile on the cross.

Nagasaki is noted for a delicious
kind of jelly {kin-gyoku-to) made
from seaweed. The fish-market
has the reputation of being one of
three which show the greatest va-
riety of fish in the world.

A notable feature of the harbour
is the coaling of steamers by gangs
of young girls, who pass small
baskets from hand to hand ^^ith
amazing rapidity. One of the
" Empress " steamers has had 1,360
tons of coal put on board in this
way in 4 hours, which is at the rate
of 5.7 tons per minute !

Temples. — The principal Shinto
temple is that of 0-Suwa, known
to foreigners as the " Bronze Horse
Temple," from a votive offering of
a bronze horse which stands in the
courtyard. The bronze torii at the
foot of the steps is one of the lar-
gest in Japan. The garden attached
to this temple commands a tine
view of the city and harbour. The
Buddhist teuiples of Nagasald offer
little interest ; but the gi-eat cam-
phor-trees in the grounds of some
of them deserve notice, more es-
pecially the huge specimen near
Daitokuji.

Festivals. — Nagasaki has always
been noted for the animation of
its religious festivals, two of which
are still observed with all the pomp
of former days.

1. The Suwa no Matsuri (com-
monly called Kunichi), held on
the 7th, 8th, and 9th October,
biit liable to alteration. The old
Dutch writers never tired of de-
scribing it, and their accounts agi-ee
in almost every detail with the
spectacle as witnessed at the pre-
sent day.

" This/eV^," writes one of them, •• is of
some days' duration, and begins with
solemn rites in the temple dedicated to
Suwa. Flags and lanterns are exhibited
on all parts of the temple, and all the
worshippers wear gorgeous ceremonial

Festivals.

461

robes. Ilie public rites cousist in placing
the great image of the god, together with,
the treasure of the temple, in a magnifi-
cently gilded and lacquered shrine, which
is then borne in procession through the
streets, closely followed by the chief
priests and a body of picked horsemen,
the latter being de^juted by the Governor
to honour the ceremony. Shrine and
treasure are finally deposited in a straw
hut, especially built for the occasion.
Here they remain on view for some time,
the hut being open in front, though par-
tially enclosed by painted screens ; and
with this conclude the prescribed religious
rites. Sports, games of skill, and thea-
trical representations follow ; great plat-
forms are erected in different parts of the
town, and on these actors and singer.s of
renown go through all manner of perfor-
mances."— Fischer, who was present on
one of these occasions, gives the follow-
ing account of what he saw : " First goes
an immense, shapeless mass of linen,
carried on a bamboo by a stalwart man,
of whom nothing can be seen but his feet.
Mighty is the load he bears, for the cloth
is full twelve ells in length and em-
broidered throughout, forming one huge
canopy. Then come banners and em-
broidered ornaments, covered with skilful
needle-work representing some renowned
man or celebrated woman, a hill covered
with snow, the instruments of various
trades, or scenes from ancient Japanese
history. Next follow musicians playing
upon drums, cymbals, and flutes, strange-
ly attired, and accomijanied by a number
of servants. These are led or headed by
the otlonii, the chief municipal officer.
Then appears a long train of children, re-
presenting some expedition of one of their
mikudoK, or demigods. This pait of the
show is most admirable ; clad and armed
like the warriors of former times, the
leaders march gravely along, followed by
the representatives of the Imperial Court,
male and female, displaying the greatest
pomp and luxury, and surpassing every
conception of dainty beauty. Each of
these trains is attended by a number of
palanquins, which are intended for any
of the children who may become fatigued.
After these come companies of actors;
every now and then high benches of equal
size are ranged along the road, and on
these the actors perform with great spirit
and emphatic gesticulations. Their ac-
tions are accompanied by the music of
flutes and s,V'(J»«eH Ishaminfn]. When this
is over, a crowd of miscellaneous musi-
cians, planquins, servants, and the rela-
tives of the children follow, and this
closes one train,"

The arrangement nowadays is as
follows : — The town is divided into
seventy-seven wards (mnchi), inchad-
ing Maruyama and Yoriai-machi,

the two licensed pleasure-quarters.
These quarters are represented
every alternate year, principally by
the geisha, who always lead the
procession, the remainder being
made up of dancing and acting
parties from ten of the seventy-
seven wards, whose turn it hap-
pens to be to contribute towards
the festival. The procession starts
from Ohato_ at daybreak, march-
ing up to 0-Suwa, where dancing,
etc., chiefly by children gorgeously
arrayed, is carried on iintil noon.
The second day is an ofE-day, and is
occupied by the processions parad-
ing the town and performing at the
houses of the principal residents.
The third day is a repetition of the
first, except that the order is re-
versed, the^procession going from
0-Suwa to Ohato. The gods of O-
Suwa are enshrined in large
lacquered palanquins, which, borne
on the shoulders of stalwart
peasants, are rtished up and down
the temple steps amidst a scene of
the wildest excitement, often ending
in a free fight and serious injuries
to the particijmnts.

2. The Bon Matsuri, or "Feast of
Lanterns," as foreigners commonly
call it, when the si)irits of the dead
are supposed to revisit the scenes
of their life on earth, is cele-
brated from the 13th to the loth
days of the 7th moon, old style. The
graveyards are then lit up with
lanterns, and the relatives of the
dead resort thither to jserform theii'
devotions. The hills around the
city being covered with graveyards,
the spectacle is most impressive.
About midnight on the third night,
a number of good-sized straw boats,
furnished with lighted lanterns and
laden with oti'erings of viyious
edibles, are launched fi'om Ohato
for the spirits to take passsage back
to the other world. Biit as danger
to shipping is feared from the
lights floating about the harbour,
men are placed in the water nowa-
days to break up the boats as soon
as they are launched.

462

Route 52, — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood.

3. The Crion Matsuri is a fair
lasting for three days. It takes
place on the 14th, 15th, and. 16th
of the 6th moon, old style.

4. The Kite-flying Festival is held
on the 10th day of the 3rd moon,
old style, on Kompira-yama, a
conical hUl, about 1 hr. climb from
the N. end of the native town.
The scene is highly picturesque,
the object of the kite-tiiers, young
and old, being to cut down each
other's kites with strings coated
over with ground glass.

3. — Walks and Excursions in the
Neighbouehoo d.

The favourite walk is across the
narrow peninsula to the vill. of
Mogi on the (iulf of Obama, 2 ri,
practicable also for jinrikishas with
'A men. There are two semi-foreign
hotels at Mogi, and fine sea views.

The cold saline spring, known as
TJrakami Onsen, is a popular
resort of the toAvnsfolk. It posses-
ses two or three good tea-houses
and pleasure-grounds, and lies 5 m.
from Nagasaki, or about ^ hr. from
Michino-o station.

The Waterfall of Kwannon-
no-taki forms a popiilar picnic
resort. The way leads over the
Himi-iorje (itself a good objective
point for a shorter walk, IJ hr.) to
the vill. of Yagami, whence the
road turns 1. towards the hiUs, and
is practicable for jinrikishas the
whole way, — a distance of about
4 ri. The courtyarfl of the temple is
lined with stone images of Kwan-
non and Fudo, to the former of
whom it is dedicated. The build-
ings date from A. D. 1730. Trees
and shrubs tastefully disposed
adorn the grounds, and the steep
slopes on the bank of the stream
flowing from the faU are built up
in teiTaces faced with stone and
planted with flowering cherry-trees,
camellias, azaleas, and maples,
which, when in season, lend a
briUiant colouring to the scene.
The cascade shoots over a rugged

chfE into a deep pool about 50 ft.
below. Kooms are let out to
visitors by the resident priest.

Of the various hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Nagasaki, the sharp
cone of Saruta-yama (1,418 ft.),
generally known to foreign resi-
dents as " the Virgin," affords the
widest panorama. It stands near
the 1. of the high ridge which trav-
erses the peninsula some 4 m. to
the S. of the town. The walk
there and back takes about 5 hrs.
The most prominent mountains
seen from the top are : E., Onsen-
ga-take on the promontory of
Shimabara, and N.E., Taradake in
Hizen. The nearer summits in-
clude Inasa-yama and the rocky
peak of Iwaya-dake on the opposite
side of the harbour ; next Kompu-a-
yama, rising beyond the town, to
whose r. in succession are seen the
triple summits of Shichimen-zan
(commonly known as " the Cham-
pion ") ; Hoka-zan, to be recognised
by its rounded top, and Hiko-san,
distinguishable by a fiinge of trees
crowning its summit and extending
partly down its W. slope. Looking
seawards, the eye sweeps over a
succession of beautiful islets, while
the horizon to the W. is bounded by
the blue outline of the Goto gi"Oup ;
to the N. Kes the Bay of Omura, to
the E. the Gulf of Shimabara.

The island of Takashima,
noted for its Colliery, hes about
8 miles S.W. of the entrance to the
harbour of Nagasaki, while Naka-
no-shima and Hashima — smaller
coal producing islands — lie about
1 mile further out. Takashima is
some 250 acres in extent.

Until 300 years ago it was uninhabited.
The first people to occupy the island were
a guard of five officers, placed there by
the Daimyo of Hizen to prevent foreignei-s
from landing. The mine was first work-
ed by the Jai^auese about the middle of
the 18th century. In lS(j7, the Daimyo of
Hizen, in partnership with jMessra.
Glover and Co., of Nagasaki, largely de-
veloped the resources of the locality by
the introduction of machinery and Eu-
ropean methods of mining. The present
owners are the Mitsubishi Company.

Route 53. — Unzen and the Shimabara Peninsula.

463

KOUTE 53.

Unzen and the Shimabara
Peninsula.

1. unzen. 2. from nagasaki to
khimabaea.

1. — Unzen.

Onsen, or Unzen in local par-
lance, is the joint name of the three
hamlets of Furu-Onsen, 8hin-yu,
and Kojigoku, lying _ near the
wonderful solfatara of Ojigokn in a
hollow of Onsen-ga-take. Each
hamlet stands about 10 min. from
the other. Shin-yu has three foreign
hotels, — the Takaki, the Unzen
Hotel, and the Shin-yu, besides
se'veral good native inns with pri-
vate baths for foreigners and Em-op.
furniture. Kojigoku also has a
foreign hotel, called Shimoda, and
a Japanese inn, Midori-ya.

This remarkable spot, 2,550 ft.
above the sea, noted for its sulphur
springs, its varied and beautiful
scenery, and bracing air, has be-
come a sanatorivim, not only for
Nagasaki and neighbourhood, but
for the residents of the China
treaty ports. From the Japanese
point of view, a course of these
upper springs is considered neces-
sary to effect a complete recovery
after the patient has passed
through the routine of the mineral
baths at Obama.

The usual way of reaching Unzen
from Nagasaki is via Mogi (2 ri),
whence steamer daily in 3 hrs. to
Obama. Should the sea be too
rough, one may take train from
Nagasaki to Isahaya, whence jin-
likisha to Chijiica, 4 ri 29 cho (llj
m.), from which village up to Un-
zen direct is a walk of 3 ri, rough
but affording fine views ; or one
may go on by jinrikisha 2 ri further
along the shore to Obama, and be
carried up thence.

Travellers coming from Kuma-
moto or Misumi will land at Tsu-
kawa. on the E. side of the Shima-

bara peninsiila, whence 3 ri up to
Unzen by an easy road.

Obama consists almost entirely
of inns (the Ikkaku-r5 and Tsuta-
ya being the best), and is much
frequented on account of its min-
eral waters, which possess gi-eat effi-
cacy in rheumatic complaints.
The village has a picturesque aspect
when viewed from the sea, the
houses being built on a high stone
embankment with their verandahs
supported on long poles. The
baths are detached from the inns,
and are mostly open tanks on the
rocky beach close to the spring
which supplies them. The temper-
ature of the water at its source is
160° F., but in the baths it is
lowered to 106° F.

The road to Unzen first mounts
a long flight of steps leading up to
a Shinto shrine. At the hamlet of
Sasa-no-toji, the road tiirns sharp
to the 1., and for a short distance is
steep and rough. It then emerges
on an open turfy slope, command-
ing a splendid view towards the
Nagasaki peninsula. The path now
winds to the r. between two slopes
of the ridge, and soon the con-
spicuous cone of Taka-iwa strikes
the eye. We next reach, 1« ri from
Sasa-no-toji, a small plain where
Fugen-dake and Mydken-dake, two
of the highest peaks, come into
view. Further on, a path branches
off r. to

Kojigoku, while the main one
soon reaches Furu-Onsen, where
stands the dilapidated Buddhist
temple of Ichijo-in, rebuilt on a
smaller scale after its destriiction
during the Christian troubles of
1637. The solfataras are the
chief object of interest, but should
not be visited without a local
guide, as the footing is very dan-
gerous in many places. The
springs and fumaroles extend in a
seething and boiling mass for near-
ly one mile along a hollow at the
foot of fir-clad hills, and the volume
of steam which rises from them
forms a striking contrast to the

464

Boule 53. — Unzen and the Shimahara Feninsula.

■dark evergreen of the background.
Theii- actiTity varies at different
times, "water which under ordinary
circumstances is thrown up from 2
ft. to 5 ft., being often projected to
double that height. Fanciful names
have been given to most of the gey-
sers, the finest being called Dai Kyo-
kican, or the Loud Wailing ; that
which bears the name of Chuid
Jigoku, or Second-class Hell, has a
temperature of 204°F. Several of
the spiings cannot be approached,
on account of the extreme insecu-
rity of the footing.

The finest of the mountain icalks
in the neighbourhood is up the
extinct volcano on whose flank
Unzen lies. The summit consists
of three chief peaks, \'iz., Onsen-
ga-take, ?,Iy5ken-dake, and Fugen-
dake. This last and highest (4,800
ft.) is visited first, and the others
taken or omitted at x^leasure on
the way back. The ascent for the
first hour is a moderate chmb to
the shoulder on the r. of Onsen-ga-
take. The path then descends
through thick brushwood, and on
reaching the opposite side of the
mountain, again ascends for 50 min.
to a perpendicular rock 50 ft. high,
on whose N. side, sheltered from
the rays of the sun, ice is sometimes
seen as early as the month of
November. Ten minutes more bring
one to the s^^mmit of Pugen-dake,
which commands a very extensive
view, stretching from the provinces
of Higo and Satsiuna on the one
hand to the distant group of the
Goto Islands on the other, and
including, in addition to the vol-
canoes of Aso-san and Kirishima-
yama, innumerable bays and is-
lands which together form a pano-
rama of indescribable beauty. The
second peak, Myoken-dake, is reach-
ed in 2 hrs, from Fugen-dake, the
way lying partly through brush-
wood. Tm-ning the shoulder of
Fugen-dake, and passing some
caves and large vats used for stor-
ing ice, the path descends into a
■deep ravine, probably an old crater.

the bottom of which is a mass of
huge boulders interspersed with
trees. Wide crevices and slippery
rocks here demand the climber's
careful attention. The ascent to
Myoken-dake from this ravine is
very steep ; but the summit, like
that of Fugen-dake, commands a
magnificent view. The third peak,
Onsen-gn-take, is surmounted with-
out difficulty, and the return to
Kojigoku acc-omphshed in 2J hrs.
The walk to Fugen-dake alone and
back can be done in .3J hrs.

The nearer neighbourhood of
Unzen affords numerous pretty
walks, one of the best being to the
summit of Taka-iica, where there is
shelter under a natural arch of gran-
ite, with a glorious view over the
Kuchinotsu end of the peninsula.
It is an easy trip for ladies, and
a capital spot to' picnic at. Time
required, 3 hrs. from the hotels.

A pleasant excursion may be
made from Unzen to the port of
Shimabara, some 5 ri distant.
After passing Kara-ike, a tarn lying
on the way to Fugen-dake, the road
descends through a tine rocky
valley, the conspicuous summit of
Taka-iwa being seen ahead. It
then chmbs a steep slope, and
brings in view the Gulf of Shima-
bara and several mountains in the
province of Higo. Below lies a
fertile plain, stretching away to-
wards the S. part of the j)eninsula,
a portion of the island of Amakusa
being also seen towards the S.
The descent to the plain is, for the
gi'eater portion of the way, over
turf, amidst boulders and rocks,
and then through a forest of pines,
firs, and camphor-trees. On reach-
ing the hamlet of Mhwkaica (2 ri),
the road becomes less steep, and
10 cho further fauiy level. Beyond
Nakakoba, we obtain a grand view
of the precipices of Maeyama (also
called Kueyama), which rise like gi-
gantic walls between the town of
Shimabara and the main summits
of the volcano.

From Nagasaki to Shimabara.

465

It is stated that some time in the
eighteenth century this side of Maeyama
was hurled down by an enormous land-
slip and thrown forward into the sea,
burying part of the town of Shimabara,
and forming the innumerable islets which,
now clad with xjine- trees, give such a
picturesque appearance to the harbour.

For Shimabara, see below.

2. Nagasaki to Shimabaea.

A short description of the journey
by rail from Nagasaki to Isahaya
will be found on pp. 473-4. The
Itinerary of the rest of the way is
as follows : —

IS.iHAYAto: Bi Cho M.

Sangen-jaya 3 5 7|

Aitsu 15 1

Kojiro (Nishimnra) 3 28 9|

Shimabara (Joka)... 4 8 10^
SHIMABARA (Mi-

nato) 1 — 21

Total 12 20 305

Leaving Isahaya, the road crosses
a plain, and then skirts the foot
of low hnis as far as the hamlet of
Moriyama, whence it ascends a
hill commanding a fine view of the
plain that stretches away to the
base of Taradake. The road be-
tween Aitsu (poor accommoda-
tion) and Shimabara lies for the
most part near the shore of the
gulf, and aifords from different
points magnificent views of the
Shimabara mountains. The view
across the gulf is also very
beautiful.

From the earliest antiquity, the Gulf of
Shimabara has been famed for the if/nis
fiituus which axjpears from time to time
upon its surface. According to loi^al ac-
counts, the phenomenon occurs twice
yearly, viz., on the 30th day of the 7th
moon and on the 30th day of the l'2th
moon, old style, from some time after
midnight until the approach of dawn. On
the former date, the lights extend from
the coast near Yatsushiro to Amura in
Amakusa ; on the latter date, from Kuchi-
notsu to Tomioka. Some witnesses affirm
the light to be a single ball of fire rising
perpendicularly from the surface of the
sea to a height of 60 ft., while others
describe it as a line of pale red globes

drifting up and down with the tide. " Sea
fireworks" and " thousand lanterns " are
popular names of these mysterious lights.
rhe standard classical name, ghiranu-ki,
(or shiranui, as it is more generally i3ro-
nounced) signifies " the unknown fire."
European investigators, though attribut-
ing the phenoDJeuon in a general way to
electricity or phosphorescence, have not
yet discovered any sufficient explanation
of its restriction to this special locality or
of its periodicity. Probably the alleged
facts need further careful sifting.

Shimabara, formerly the castle-
town of a Daimyd, consists of two
large divisions known respectively
as Minato, or the Port {Inn, Chiku-
go-ya), and Joka, or the Town
{Inn, Hashimoto-ya). The traveller
should be careful to state to which
division he wishes to go, for the
two together are continuous for
upwards of 1 ri in length.

At Shimabara occurred one of the most
tragic incidents of the persecution of the
Christians in the 17th century. Here the
faithful had assembled in large numbers
from various parts of the country for
purijoses of defence, and occupied the
site of the old castle, portions of whose
walls still exist, and around which most
of the fighting took place. When the
Christians were overpowered, multitudes
of both sexes and all ages are said to have
been pushed from the clifts into the sea.
Memorial stones mark the graves of the
officers of the besieging force, the largest
monument, about 8 ft. high, being dedicat-
ed to the memory of Itakura Shigemasa,
Commander-in-Chief of the Shogun's
army, who lost his life in the attack on
the stronghold.

An alternative but longer way of
reaching Shimabara from the vill.
of Aitsu is by following the coast
road, practicable for jinriMshas,
via Obama and Kuchinotsu. The
Itinerary is as follows : —

AITSU to :— Ri Cho M.

Chijiwa 19 3

Obama \ 2 — 5

Kita - Gushi- 1 a;

yama || 1 18 31

Minami-Gushi- I §

yama [ g 1 IS

Katsusa g; 1 —

KUCHINOTSTT * 1 —

Minami Arima / 1 —

Kita Arima 20

Nishi Ade 1 10

3.^
3

466 Route 54. — From Nagasaki across Central Kyushu.

Dozaki 1 15 3J

Fukae 1 30 4^

Nakakoba 18 3

S H I M A B A R A

(Minato) 1 18 3J

Total 17 2 41^

It is an easy but steady rise from
Aitsii to a high ridge overlooking
the Gulf of Obania. From this a
broad road descends to the shore,
affording exqitisite "views. The
roots of the fir-trees at Chijiwa,
standing out above the sand, pre-
sent an extraorchnary appearance.

Obama (see p. 4G3).

Kuchinotsu (good accommoda-
tion) is a '■ Special Port of Export "
for coal, nearly the whole oiitput
of the Miike Mines being brought
here in junks, and shipped to
Shanghai, Hongkong, etc. Unzen
may be reached from here by a
road partly practicable for jiniiki-
shas, 6 ri 8 cho (15^ m.).

ROUTE 54.

From Nagasaki across Central

KyUSHti AND ALONG THE

North-East Coast,
ascent of aso-san. takeda. baths

OF BEPPU. BEPPU TO NAKATStl.

This route, embracing as it does
the natural marvels of Aso-san and
of Beppu and the lovely neigh-
bourhood of Takeda, may be
reckoned one of the most interest-
ing in Japan. It will be still more
so if the Yabakei valley, described
in Koute 58, be included, either us
an excursion from Nakatsu, or by
taking the alternative mountain
way via Mori described on p. 472.
Except over Aso-san, where there
is no alternative to walking, the

road is mostly good, and jim-iki-
shas may be availed of. There are
also hnsha, — very small, very low,
apparently spiingless, and without
seats, six guests packed like
herrings squatting in them a la
japoaaise. One horse draws this
palaceon wheels. The 7 m. section
from Oita to Beppu is covered by
an electric tram.

From Nagasaki to Kumamoto
there is a choice of ways. One may
either take train via Saga to Tosu
Junction, whence down — also by
train — to Kumamoto, thus making
a long detour around the Gulf of
Shimabara. For this railway jour-
ney, see Routes 56 and 57. The al-
ternative is to embark on the small
steamer from Nagasaki to Hyak-
kwan, the port of Kumamoto. This
voyage occupies 8 hrs, and is de-
lightful in tine weather, the ship
gliding past Pappenberg, Koyaki-
jima, Takashima, and other small
islands that produce coal, and
then round Cape Nomo. The next
islet of Kabashima is sometimes
rounded ; at other times the more
interesting, extremely naiTow
passage bet\^een it and Waki-
misaki is taken, where the tide-iip
calls for care on the navigator's
part. Thence onwards, with the
hills of Amalaisa in the distance
to the r., and past the Shimabara
peninsula to the 1., into the shallow
Gulf of Shimabara, with Kimbo-san
and lesser hills of the Kumamoto
district ahead. The steamer cannot
approach the landing-place at
Hyakkwan ; a whole hour is needed
in a small boat to reach the shore,
whence 2 ri 24 cho (G^ m.) by
jinrikisha to Kumamoto along a
flat road. If, therefore, ladies are
of the party, it may be preferable
to select the Misumi steamer instead
(() hrs. from Nagasaki), as it anchors
close to the shore, whence 6 ri 5 cho
(15 m.) to Udo station by jinrikisha,
and 25 min. by rail to Kumamoto.
Most Japanese, however, prefer to
continue on in the steamer 1^ hr.
to 2 hrs. longer, landing at Alatsu-

Ascent of Aso-san.

467

base, one station further south
than Udo on the line.
Kumamoto (see p. 478).

Itineranj.

KUMAMOTO to:— Bi Cho M.

Jinnai 5 4 12J

Tateno 2 23 6J

Tochinoki Shin-yu 1 — • 2^

Total 8 27 21i

Thence 1 day over Aso-san to
Bdju and Miyaji, whence as fol-
lows :

MIYAJI to :— Ei Cho M.

Sasakura 2 11 5|

Sugabu 2 5 5^

Tamarai 2 11 5f

TAKEDA 23 1^

Nukumi 4 — 9f

Notsuhara 4 1 Of

OITA 3 3 7J

BEPPU 3 _ 71

Total 21 18 52^-

Leaving Kumamoto, and follow-
ing the r. bank of the river Shira-
kawa, jinrikishas can be availed of
as far as Tateno, but are only re-
commended as far as the hamlet of
Seta, where the road becomes hilly.
Those who, instead of piu-suing the
journey across country, intend to
return to Kumamoto immediately
after making the ascent of Aso-san,
are advised to send round their
jinrikishas by road to Boju, 3 ri 21
cho (8| m.) fi'om Tateno on the
other side of the moiintain, to be
ready to take them back next day.

The natural vegetation for the
first part of the way out of Kuma-
moto is luxm-iant, and the cultiva-
tion everywhere favoured by the
richness of the volcanic soil. A
slight detour will permit of a visit
to the cascades of Shiraito and
Sugarnga. At Tateno we leave
beaten tracks and enter the hiUs,
the direct path descending a zigzag,
and reaching the junction of
the Shii'akawa and Kurokawa, at

the foot of a cliff some 500 ft.
high, clothed with verdure. Here,
on a flat space between the two
streams, stands the hamlet of

Toshiia, or Tochinoki >^Mn-yu,
with a modest inn and public baths,
— mere tanks under sheds. The
water, not very hot, is brought in
pipes from another hamlet, a few
cho higher up the ravine, called
Tochinoki Ilon-yu, which is a less
good place for Europeans to stay
at, because generally crowded with
native bathers of the lower class.

Tochinold Shin-yu being the
starting-point for Aso-san, a local
guide should here be procured, as
the way is easily lost.

The five peaks of Aso-san are called
Kijiiiia-dake, Eboshi-dake, Naka no-take,
Taka-dake, and Neko dake, the highest,
Taka-dake being 5,650 ft. Aso-san is
therefore nothing extraordinary in height;
it is not even the highest mountain in
Kyushu, nor is the fact of its being an
ever active volcano any great singularity
in this volcano-studded land. Its title to
celebrity rests on the exceptional size of
its outer crater, which is the largest iu the
world, and rises almost symmetrically to
a height of about 2,00U ft , the wall being
highest to tiie S.W. and lowest to the E.,
between Aso-san and Sobo-san. The only
actual break is on the western or Kuma-
moto side, through which the river Shira-
kawa, joined by the Kurokawa, runs out.
According to popular tradition, the whole
plain enclosed by this wall was anciently
a lake, till one day the god of the moun-
tain kicked open this breach to let the
waters out and leave the land fit for
cultivation.

The ciater measures from 10 to 14 m.
in diameter, and is popularly said to
contain a hundred villages ; but the
round number is an exaggeration. P'rup-
tions of Aso-san have been chronicled
from the beginning of Japanese history.
In February, 1884, immense quantities of
black ash and dust were e.iected and
carried by the wind as far as Kuiuamoto,
where for three days it was so dark that
artificial light had to be used. The crops
in many of the fields in the intervening
valley were destroyed by the ashes.
Great activity also marked the volcano
and geysers in 188'J. The latest eruption
took place in 1894. altering the floor of
the modern inner crater, which has now
two vents, besides numerous rifts in the
inner walls from which smoke issues.
When the compilers visited this district in
1897, the fall of ash (yoiia ga fui-u) result-
ing from this outbreak was still continu-

4G8 Route 54. — From Nagasaki across Central Kyushu.

ing. It resembled a blight filliog the
greater part of the sky. At times it is
quite impalpable, at others it may easily
be collected in toacupfuls. The country
people state that there are two kinds of
ash, —one harmlesH, the other Hulphu-
reous, which spoils all garments left out
in it and withers the crops. Those
desirous of further details concerning
this remarkable locality, will find them
in a paper by Prof. John Milne, F.R.S.,
in Vol. EX, Pt. II, of the Transactions of
the Seismologii'.n Society of Japan.

After passing Tochinoki Hon-yu,
we reach a waterfall called Ai-
gaeri, lit, "trout return,"' so called
because the fish coming up stream
can go no further. It makes a
pretty picture, with lofty Tawara-
yama rising behind it to the r. A
steady ascent hence leads over a
grassy moor to Yunotani, Ih ri,
where a small geyser ejects red
mud and boihng water. Here, on
looking back, an extensive \iew
opens out over the plain of Kuma-
moto, with the Shimabara pen-
insula beyond. Some guides con-
sider that the distance is les-
sened by leaving Yunotani to the
1., and going up through the txvin
spas of Tarutama and Jigoku, the
former prettily situated against a
screen of rock down which fall
threads of water, and both lively
with numerous bathers in Apiil
and May, which is the busy season.
The next stage, which includes
some wandering about intricate
valleys, leads in 1| hr. to the base
of the cone where stand two
temples, one Shintd, the other
Buddhist, and also a rest-house.
The climb to the actual lip of the
crater, where steam, smoke, and
tongues of flame constantly rise
amid loud detonations, and back
again to the rest-house, will occupy
I hr. A great rift connects this
crater with another fmther to the
south, where sulphur is collected by
workers who live on the spot in a
temporary \illage from March to
October. But this is oft" the route.
Neither crater, be it understood,
occupies the apex of the mountain
mass.

From the rest-house down to Boju
is called 63 cho, but must be more,
as it requires 1 f hr. rapid walking.
On the way down this moorland
slope, the traveller first realises the
extraordinary structure of Aso-san,
and will mars'el at the regularity
and majestic sweep of the
ancient crater wall. Till then the
mountain had seemed a jumble ; but
on the descent all becomes clear.
It is a unique and impressive
scene : — below, the teeming plain
dotted with tillages, and enclosed
by the outer wall beyond which
looms the great faint mass of Kuju-
san, while to the r., through rifts
in the smoke and steam, appear the
grey broken crags of the modern
inner crater.

Boju is the place where those
returning to Kumamoto rejoin
their jinrikishas. It is also the
place whence those doing this
route in the contrary direction
should make the ascent of Aso-
san, sending their jinrikishas round
to Tateno to awjxit them. Those
who intend to continue the route
as given in this book should not
stop at B5ju at all, as it possesses
no good inn, but should push on
for the night to

Miyaji (Inn, Yoshino-ya), which
lies 10 min. by jinrikisha off the
main road. A large Shinto temple
here, dedicated to the god of Aso-
san, gives to the %Tllage its name
which means " temple ground."
The chief treasme is a sacred sword
called Hotaru Mnru, or the Fii'efly.
[From iliyaji a hilly cross-coun-
try road of aboiit 17 ri leatLs
to Jlita (for Yabiikei), via Tchi-
nomaki, Miyanoharu, Tsuitate.
and Deguchi. Tsuitate is a
rustic bathing resort nestling
in a picturesque gorge. From
Deijuvhi onwards, the way leatls
across a park-like country
studded with pine-trees, the
mountains beyond helping to
form a charming scene.]
Leaving Miyaji and rejoining the
excellent main road, we bowl

Aso-san to Takeda.

4G9

along an avenue of cberry-trees,
with the whole mass of Aso-san —
especially the jagged peak of Neko-
dake — conspicuous to the r. The
way is quite fiat as far as Hakanashi
(inferior accommodation), at the
iaottom of the steep Takimuro-zakn.
This hill is simply the above-men-
tioned outer wall, which is covered
with luxuriant vegetation, and wp
which one has to climb in order
to emerge from the crater. The
view fi'om the rest-house at the
top is disappointing, and the first
stage of the gradual descent on
the other side dull. But after pass-
ing the hamlet of Sasakura. we
come out on a broad open upland,
with Kuju-san constantly to the
1. and the still greater mass of
Hobo-san to the r. This plateau
passes gradually into the curiously
broken up, artificial-looking coun-
try around Takeda, — a complicsated
system of dwarf hills with mini-
ature valleys and little walls of
pumice and basalt lining the valley
sides. Tamarai is a small but go-
ahead place. The road enters

Takeda {Inn, Ebisu-ya) by a
short tunnel, one of a large
number — some forty altogether —
which were cut about the year
1870, to avoid the necessity of
climlbing up and downhill on
entering or leaving the town,
which lies in a hollow. Some of
these tunnels are as much as 18(1
yds. long. The traveller is strong-
ly advised to devote at least a
couple of hours to visiting the wafer-
fall, of Uozumi, 8 cho to the S., and
Yagobe-zaka, which adjoins Take-
da to the E. This latter eminence
gives a bird's-eye \iew over the
compact, typically Japanese little
town. The former is a delightful
waterfall or rather cluster of water-
falls, not remarkable for height,
being merely some 30 or 40 ft.
but extremely picturescpie, and
flo^^ing over and among the tops
of basaltic columns wliioh fit close-
ly together like a tesselated pave-
ment. The river is the Onogawa.

The old castle-hUl, too, formerly
the seat of the Nakagawa family,
deserves a visit. By thus wandering
about, the traveller will see some
of the longer tunnels, and obtain
a more con-ect idea of this unique
locality than is possible by simply
rushing through it. Takeda might
even advantageously be made the
headquarters for a stay of several
days, as there are many good expedi-
tions in the neighbourhood. One of
these, 4 r'i to the E., is to the grand
rent erf all of Chinda, over which, in
ancient times, prisoners con-
demned to death were precipitated ;
if they survived the ordeal, they
were pardoned.

[A jinriMsha road leaxiLng fi'om
Chinda to Ichida on the Ono-
gawa, 3^ ri, affords an alterna-
tive way of reaching Oita and
Beppu ; see Route 59.]

Another beautiful set of water-
falls called Shiromizu, lying to the
W., makes a long day's expedi-
tion, 4 ri there by jinrikisha and 1\
ri on foot. Besides these, there are
several other waterfalls, to say
nothing of Kujii-san and Sobo-san,
mountains rarely ascended.

Leading Takeda and the Onogawa
by a short tunnel, we pass r. a rocky
mound with stone images of the
Sixteen Rakan. The scenery soon
loses the unique aspect above
described, without however ceasing
to be beautiful. In fact, it is a
succession of delights nearly the
whole way to Nukumi, — brawling
streams, rich vegetation, deep glens;
but the road continually ascends
and descends, so that it is often
necessary to alight and walk. From
the rest-hotise at Nukumi, the
whole distance to Notsiihara is
almost constantly downhill, most
of it through charming scenery,
especially the romantic gorge of
Arako-dani, with its high rocky
walls. This widens out at the
scattered ^-illage of Iinairhi, where
the sea first comes in sight ; and
thenceforward, all down the valley

470 Route 54. — From Nagasaki across Central Kyushu.

of the Nanase-gfawa— for so the
river is nanied — there is a delicious
mixture of upland, and rock, and
the soft green ot cultivated fields.
Kotsuhara is a poor place standing
on the flat, and the whole way is
flat and uninteresting on to

Oita (Inn, Mizimo). This, the
capita] of the prefecture of the same
name, is a large and busy town,
with a port at some distance. Its
chief manufacture is silk yarn.

It was to this place that the Portuguese
adventurer, ^lendez Pinto, found his
way in the year 151:5, when he had dis-
covcied Japan, and met with a friendly
reception from the local Daimyo. The
wonders of his aninebuse, the first explo-
sive weapon ever eeen bj' the Japanese,
are si ill spoken of by the townsfolk.
The great Jesuit missionary, St. Francis
Xavier, also spent some time at Oita a
few years Jater ; and Otomo, the lord of
Funai. as Oita used to be called, was the
first Daimyo to embrace Christianity.

The coast beyond Oita is very
pretty, recalling the Ki\iera, but
far greener. The small port of
Kantan, where numerous junks may
generally be seen lying at anchor,
is passed 1| m. out of Oita. The
high clifE 1., which the road then
sldrts, is called Takazaki-yama.
The land to the extreme r. in the
dim distance is that ot the moun-
tains of lyo in Shikoku.

Beppu (/?47(, *Hinago-ya), besides
being a port of call for steamers, is
a celebrated resort on account of
its hot baths, the whole ground of
the semi-circular flat that girds the
bay being undermined by volcanic
vapours and hot water. In the
suburb of Hdinaiijake, across the
liver Asami, are two very large
bath-houses on the shore, called the
Eastern and Western Baths
(Ui(jashi no yu and jMi.s/u no yu).
Each accommodates about 400 pa-
tients, who, when all bathing to-
gether, present a singidar spectacle.
The baths, which are sunk in the
gi-ound, are graduated to suit all
kinds of chronic diseases, and on the
pillars are labels giv'ing the requisite
information. The sea-water flows

in gently at high tide, reducing the
temperature. Visitors are warned
in the native guide-book " not to
kill the ox while straightening the
horns," that is, not to injure their
constitution in the effort to cure
a local affection. The temperature
of the waters, which are alkaline
and chalybciite with large quan-
tities of carbonic acid gas, is from
100° to 132° F. The two sexes
bathe promiscuously. The usual
bathing season is from February
to May.

A general panoramic view of
Beppu and neighbourhood may be
obtained from the temple of Kwan-
kaiji, on a hill behind the town.

A morning may be agreeably
spent visiting the vill. of Kannama-
murn, 1 ri 8 chii distant from Beppu
by jinrilcisha, where is a vapour
bath-house which holds sixteen
persons at a time. It is walled
round with stone and roofed in,
and has but a small aperture for
ventilation. The floor is a lattice,
under which flows a stream of nat-
ural boiling water. The entrance
is by a low door covered with a
straw mat, beneath a small shrine.
Intending bathers wait in an
ante-room, each paying 10 sen for
the day and receiving a tally. As
soon as one emerges from under
the mat, another gives up his tally
and enters, each stopping in for
about an hour. The bathers come
out covered with droppings of mud
and rushes which fall from the roof,
and hasten to cool themselves
under spouts of fresh water
flo\%'ing into a large pool on the
other side of the street. Along the
sides of the village street are to be
seen kettles and saucepans set to
boil over Indies in the grouncL
Large quantities of naturjU hot
water flow through pipes from
the springs above the village ; and
opposite the door of each house is
a set of holes for cooking purposes,
covered with sods when not wante<i.
A short way up the hill behind, the
springs can be seen boiling out of

Beppu to Yukuhashi.

471

the ground, and are called " Hells "
{Jigoku) by the Japanese. The
largest of these "Hells," Umi Jigoku,
forms a pond prettily situated
under a leafy bank. It measures
42 ft. in diameter, and the water,
which boils with great force, is
clear and of a vivid green colour.
Many persons have committed
suicide by jumping into it, and so
being scalded to death in an
instant. A smaller "Hell" is the
Oni Jigoku, full of reddish stones.
A third, Bdzu Jigoku, near by,
consists of hght grey boiling mud,
and sometimes emits a loud noise.
The whole neighbourliood of Kan-
nawa is undermined by fuming
sulphurous streams, and at several
points the umd may be seen mov-
ing in tiny bubbles.

The stage from 33eppu to Naka-
tsu may be accomplished in two
altogether different ways, — either
comfortably by jinrikisha and train
along the coast, or on foot or horse-
back over the hills via Slori. We
describe the former first ; the latter
will be found on the next page.

I. Leaving Beppu b}-^ jinrildsha
(the railway under construction not
yet having penetrated so far), we
are reminded by immense quanti-
ties of dwarf miilberry-trees that
this province is noted for its silk.
Evidences of volcanic activity are
met with at the vill. of Tanegawa,
which has an arrangement of open
hot baths, one to about six houses
on either side of the street. Wide
sands extend hence for 1 ri to the
foot of the Kanagoe-toge. Here a
halt should be made, and one of the
heights ascended for the sake of the
view, for which 10 min. will suffice.
Yiif u-dake is seen to the S., Karaki-
yama to the W.; there is a magui-
licent panorama of the coast and
bay from Kizuld N. to Oita S., and
of the Bungo Channel ; the Gulf of
Oita lies below. We then descend
and cross the river Gogawa, after
which the scenei'y loses in interest.

Usa (Tun, Waka-ya),the present

terminus of the railway, though a
mere hamlet, boasts three Shinto
shrines dedicated respectively to
the Emperors Ojin and Chuai and
to the Empress Jingo, all bright red
and embowered in trees. They are
famous throughout Kyiishii under
the name of Usa no Hachiman.
Proceeding hence by train, we
obtain delightful mountain views, —
the Bungo Fuji and lesser cones,
in fact a whole assemblage of
cones : — ■ fortress-like Hachimen-
zan, Kinoko-yama (a double cone),
Hiko-san, etc.

Wakatsu [Inns, * Shofu-ken,
Mihara-ya) is a large town, but
labours under the drawbacks of a
bad harbour and of the gi'owing
importance of Moji. After it, the
hills decrease in height, but the
ciu-ved coast-line ahead near whose
tip Moji stands, grows giadually
more distinct. The most consider-
able place passed is

Yukuhashi (Inn, * Anraku-tei),
the junction for a short line to the
coUieiies of Kawara, Ita, and Gotoji.
One and a half ri from Yukuhashi,
partly by jinrikisha and partly on
foot, are two large aives called
Seiryu-to, lit. Blue Dragon Caves,
on a hillside with line stalac-
tites.

Distance

fi-om

Names of Stations

Nakatsu

USA

2|m.

Yolckaichi

Imatsu

NAKATSU

I'ok

I^noshima

Jlatsue

20.}

Shiida

Shinden-baru

27|

Yukuhashi Jet.

31^

Kanda

Sone

39^

Jono

42it

KOKUHA Jet.

Dairi

50J

MOJI

472

Route 55. — Ascent of Soho-san.

n. OtER the MotNTATNS VIA MoKI.

The (listance froiu Beppu to
Mori is nearly 11 ri (26 m.), Kawa-
kami being not (.laite half-way.
From Mori to Ao is 8 H by the new
jinrikisha roiul, G^ ri by the old,
which leafls over the hills.

Those selecting this way must
make it quite clear to the giiide
that they want to be led via
Kaicakarni no Onsen, or otherwise
they will infallibly be sent round
by the sea-shore. Tlie path rises at
once to the siili)htir spring of
Horifa, and np a steep pass between
the foothills of the Bnngo Fuji
r., and a lesser mountain 1., both
grassy but treeless and boulder-
strewn. Thence over gi'assy moor-
land to Kawakami mentioned
above, a poor place where the
children sit with then- feet dangling
in the warm sulphur water that
runs down the village street.

The extinct volcano called Bvmgo
Fuji by the Japanese in general, is
better known locally to the com-
mon people as Yu-ga-fake, to the
more educated inhabitants as Yu-
fu-zan. Kawakami would be the
best place from which to make the
ascent. Unfortunately the villagers
have a superstition to the etfect
that climbing the mountain pro-
vokes a tempest, and therefore only
do so when they wish to call down
rain from heaven in time of
droiight.

A long and steep ascent leads to
a plateau commanding r. a beautiful
view of moiintiiins, — surprising
because of their number as they
rise line beyond line, and of their
curious shapes. Those thickly
grouped to the far r. are in the
peninsula forming the N. E.
extremity of Bungo ; the single line
more ahead and to the 1. is lliko-
san (see Rte. 58). In spring all this
moorland resoimds ^\^th the song
of larks. Picturesque, but very
steep, is the descent to

Mori (Inn, Tuiyu-ken), a dull
town, formerly the seat of a small

Dainiyo. Jinrildshas may be avail-
ed of for the rest of the journey,
though some hills must be walked.
About 3 m. out of Mori, we enter
a marvellous glen called Fukase-
dani, which is of fantfistic l^eauty
with its rocky \\aUs and pinnacles
that outvie the more celebrated
Yabakei further on. In inaccessible
nooks stand pine-trees, azaleas,
and rhododendrons, while in
autumn all is ablaze vnth the scarlet
leaves of the mai^le. At the tidy
vill. of Y'tiiui-utsuri, the shorter old
road and the longer new road
diverge. The latter is recommended.
A descent for the most part leads
to Ao (Yabakei, see p. 481), whence
by an excellent flat road to
Nakatsu.

From Nakatsu to Moji by train
as above.

ROUTE 55.

Ascent of Sobo-sak.

This fine mountain, G.GOO ft.,
the highest in Kyushii, is most
easily reached from Kumamoto by
the road leading to the baths of
Tochinoki Shin-yu on the way to
Aso-san, for which, see p. 467.
From Shiu-yu it is a walk of about
5 ri to Takamori (fail* accommoda-
tion), whence a cUmb of ;} hr. le^ids
to the top of a pass, 2,950 ft. above
the sea, a Httlo beyond which Sobo-
san comes in sight. The road
onwards is one of continuoijs ups
and downs ; but the country is
very beautiful, especially where
the path irosses the narrow valley
called Kairahashiri, 2 J ri beyond
Takamori. Magnificent crypto-
merias rise up on the opposite side
of the vallev, some being nearly
2\Ki ft. in height. Kamiclii (1,500
ft.) is 4:.J ri from Takamori, or 9^ ri
from Tochinoki Shin-yu. There is
accommodation hero, and also at

Boute 56. — From Nagasaki to Moji.

473

Kamino, a little further on. The
way hence lies over the Alienn-toge,
(2,800 ft.), and through the vill. of
Gokasho, Ih hr. from Kawachi, the
actual ascent commencing at a
ton-ent bed | hr. further. The
climb, which is very rough and
steep — especially the last 1,(100 ft.
— will take a good mountaineer
2 hrs. from Gokasho, or 5 lirs. from
Kawachi, including stoppages. The
profusion of maples on the sides
of the mountain opposite is a
wonderful spectacle in autumn.
The summit of Sobo, which is
crowned by a tnrii and a small stone
shrine, affords a grand panorama of
mountains stretching range beyond
range and peak beyond peak. To
the N.E. appears the sea in the
vicinity of Oita, and even the
island of Shilvoku is visible in clear
weather. The descent to Kawachi
occupies 4^ hrs., whence it is '3h rl
to the point where the main Nobe-
oka road is joined at MUai, the
whole way being marvellously
beautiful, — worthy of Switzerland
itself.

From Mitai one may either re-
turn to Kumamoto by the first
part of Route 59 reversed, or con-
tinue on by _the same route to
Nobeoka and Oita.

Instead of descending to Mitai
on the S., it would no doubt be
feasible to go down to Takeda on
the N. side. This, by combining
the latter portion of Eoute 54 from
Takeda to Beppu and ]\Ioji, woiild
make an excellent trip.

ROUTE 56.

From Nagasaki to Moji.

§ ^

Names

gag

3 o a

Remarks

«£ ^

■Ht-' iB

.Stations

NAGASAKI

3m.

Michino-o

Nagayo

lb}

Ogusa

14 J;

Kikitsu

18 L

Isahaya

OMURA

30^

Matsubara

36i

Sonogi

Kawatana

4.5

Ilayazaki

48i

Haiki ...

Jet. for Sasebo.

Mikawacbi

57;;

Arita

(Change for
j Imari.

Mimasaka

64^;

TAKEO

6HJ

KJtakatii

73 1

Yamagucbi

7C-I

Ushizu

78*

Kubota

82:!-

SAGA

88}

Kanzaki

9-2i

Nakabaru

f Change for

973

TOSU Jet

I M o i i a n d
( Knmamoto.

For the rest of the schedule on
to Moji, see p. 476.

Some travellers bound for Kobe
might prefer to avail themselves of
this railway to take them to Moji,
and thus avoid what is apt to be
a rough sea passage. A drawback
at present to this plan arises fi-om
the fact that Moji is not a port of
call for any but Japanese steamers.
The passage from ^loji on to Kobe
through the InLmd Sea is almost
always smooth. .Moreover it will
soon be possible to go the whole
way to Kobe by rail over the
comfortable Sanyo line.

A short distance out of Niigasald
— recognisable by a cross on an emi-
nence— will be seen r. the vill. of
Urakami, noted in religious history.

474

Route 50. — From Nagasaki to Moji.

This village, like most of fhe hamlets In
the valley, is inhabited by Roman Catho-
lics. Inrteetl, Chiistianity aofma to have
never been entirely eradicated hero, not-
withstandin;? the ruthless pers(>cution of
the faith in the first half of the 17th cen-
tury. Here also was the residence of the
illustrious savant von Siebold, who, in the
early part of the 19th century, did so
much by his voluminous vfritings to ex-
cite the curiosity of Europe with regard to
the as yet mysterious empire of Japan.

About \ m. from Michino-o
station is a cold saline spring;,
called Urakami Onse)i, with p;ood
inns and j^leasnre grounds. After
Micbino-o the line curves to the r.,
and runs downhill to Ncujnyo sta-
tion, which is nearly 2 m. from the
Yill. of the same name on the gulf.
One and a half m. further is a big
tunnel, and then another run down-
hill to Ofjusa on the beautiful
landlocked Bay of Omura, whose
shores the railway closely skirts for
many miles, affording a series of
delightful views of water, moun-
tains, and pine-clad islets. It turns
inland for a short distance to tap
the town of

Isahaya [Jyw,, Suigetsu-ro, 10
chb from station). This is a small
place hning both banks of the
Hommyo-gawa, a river which flows
into the Gulf of Shimabara, and is
here spanned by a fine old stone
bridge. On the r. bank stands a
Shinto temple, Avhose prettily laid-
out grounds are much frequented
by holiday-makers.

Omura( /;;«, Matsushima-ya) was
formerly the residence of a Dai-
myo, and is still a busy town.
The walls of the castle are in good
preservation, and the finely wood-
ed, well-kept groimds afford a
charming place to saunter in.
Paintings and various other relics
of bygone days are here preserved
in a building set apart for the pur-
pose.

Sonogi ( Inn, Matsumori-ya).

[Jinrikishas can be hired hence
to Ureshino, {Inn, * Shio-ya),
3 ri 5 vhi> (7;J m.), noted for its
hot springs. The road leads

along a gently rising valley,
the slopes of which are coal-
measures inclined at moderate
angles, this formation continu-
ing as far as Takeo. The
springs gush forth on the bank
of a river which flows past the
village. A long wooden shed
encloses the pubUc baths, which
are divided into three classes.
The first class has three large
blue and white porcelain
receptacles for the water, which
is cooled before admission into
the baths, and can be let in or
out at pleasure. The railway
can be rejoined at Takeo (see
next page), 3 ri 27 chd (!>^ ni.).]

Specially pretty is the approach
to Haiki, where the railway follows
the bank of a narrow, river-like

strait.

[A branch line runs from Haiki
to Sasebo, 5^ m., an important
naval station whose harbour
resembles that of Nagasaki in
size and appearance. The
arsenal is not open to foreign
visitors.]

Arita (In.n, Kawachi-ya) is very
picturesquely situated, lying in a
narrow vjilley amidst a cluster of
pine-clad peaks. It has long been
noted for its Potteries, the clay
coming from Izumi-yama in the
immechate vicinity. The rock is
crushed with levers worked by
water-power. (."lay from Hirado
and the (xoto Islands is now gene-
rally used for glazing.

These potteries were established in 1592
under the superintendence of a Korean
brought over by Nabeshima, Daimyo of
Hizen. "But not till the year lij'20," says
Captain Briukley, It..\., the greatest au-
thority on .such matters. '• do wo find any
evidence of the style for which .\nta
porcelain became famous, namely, de-
coration with vitritiable enamels. 'Ihe
first eflforts in this direction were com-
paratively crude : but before the middle
of the 17th century, two experts— Goro-
shichi and Kakieraon — carried the art to
a point of cousiderable excellence. From
that time forward, the Arita factories
turned out large quantities of porcelain
profusely decorated with blue under the

From Arita to Tosu,

475

glaze and coloured enamels over it. Many
pieces were exported by the Dutch, and
some also specially manufactured to their
order for that purpose. Specimens of the
latter are still preserved in European
collections, where they aro classed as
genuine examples of Japanese keramic
art, though beyond question their style
of decoration was f;reatly influenced by
Dutch interference."

[Imari {hm, Tajima-ya) is dis-
tant from Arita 8 J lu. by a
branch line. It lies at the
bottom of a small bay, and
gives its name {Imari-yaki) to
the porcelain produced at
Arita, which is brought here
for export. Imari itself was
never a seat of the manufac-
ture.]

Takeo (Lms, Tokyo-ya, Mito-ya,
and others) deiives its reputation
from its hot spring. The best
bath, which will be reserved on
application, is of black and white
marble, and has a dressing-room
attached. The intention in the
jjubhc baths is to separate the
sexes ; nevertheless promiscuous
bathing is the common custom, and
the tanks are often closely packed
with an indiscriminate throng of
naked men, women, and children.
Immediately above the baths, rises
a hill affording a pretty view
over the surrounding country. It
is crowned with curious crags,
among which sit numerous stone
Buddhas. Another point from
which to obtain a pretty view is
Shiroyaina, a hill formed of white
porphyritic rock, whence its name.
— The oysters brought t<5 Takeo
from the neighbouring sea-coast
have a great reputation for their
size and succulence.

Retaining pleasant green hills
on the 1. which gradually recede,
the line soon enters the celebrated
rice plain which was the founda-
tion of the prosperity of this rich
province. One year, it is said,
produces sufficient rice to feed the
inhabitants for live years.

Saga (Inn, Chitose-ya), an old

and celebrated castle-town, was
formerly the seat of the Nabe-
shima family, lords of Hizen,
whose present representative. Mar-
quis Nabeshima, occupies the post
of Grand Master of Ceremonies
at the Imperial Court. The chief
feature of the jolace is the Shimhaha
Park, which contains shrines dedi-
cated to the memory of the ances-
tors of the Nabeshimas. The temple
court is fidl of monuments in stone,
bronze, and porcelain. A festival
is held annualljr on the lO-llth
April. Of the old castle little now
remains ; but a splendid effect
is produced early in August, when
the extensive moats are tilled
with lotus-flowers. Unfortunately
nothing of the city can be seen
from the railway.

Saga was the scene of one of the small
civil wars whirh followed the great
revolution of 18GS, when feudalisiu was
matin'.:; its last stru^'gle against Im-
perialism and Kuropeanisation. Eto Shim-
pei, sometime Minister of .Justice tinder
the new Imperial Government, having
returned to his home in Saga, raised the
standard of revolt, expecting all Kyushu
to follow him. In this, however, he was
disappointed, and the rising was put
down in ten days. Eto and ten other
ringle.iders were condemned to death,
and their heads exposed on the pillory.
This took place in 1874.

Kanzaki is a large and flourish-
ing town, noted chiefly for the
manufacture of vermicelli and
macaroni.

Tosu, an insignificant place, is
the junction for the line going
south to Kumamoto and I'atsu-
shiro, and north to Moji. A de-
scription of the coiantry traversed
either way will be found in the
next Route.

476

Route 57. — North-Western Kyushu.

ROUTE 57.

NoKTH- Western Kyushu.

The coast views on the northern
section of the line — from Moji to
Onfi;agaM a — are very fine, recalling
the Inland Sea ; and again pretty
peeps occur between Kashii and
Hakozald. The rest of the way is
less interesting, as it leads through
country mostly flat.

The Ki'usHtT Eailway.

§^-

Xames

gio

Remarks

Stations

MOJI

3m.

Dairi

"ik

KOKUKA

Okura

KurosaM

I'^a

Orio

( Jet. for Col-
\ liery Line.

20i

Ongagawa

27-

Akama

34*

Fukuma

36|

Koga

Kashii

45J

Hakozaki

47*

HAKATA

Zassbo-no-kuma.

Or Zassbo.

56',

Futsuka-ichi . . .

ForDazaifu.

Haruda

64^

Tajiro

655

Tosn Jet

( Change for
i Nagasaki.

69i

KURUME

77i

Hainutsuka

811

Yabekawa

85;

Watiise

90i

Omuta

Nagasu

101

Takase

109

Konoha

113J

Ueki

119"

Ikeda

1211

KUMAMOTO

124l

Kawajirl

128"

Udo

131

Matsubase

134+

Ogawa

138"
143V

Usa
YATSUSHIRO ..

t Present ter-
\ minus.

Moji (see p. 424).

Kokura {Tan, Ume-ya) is a long,
straggling, and busy town, formerly
the seat of a Daimyo, and now
occupied by the garrison entrusted
with the defence of the Strait of
Shimonoseki.

Okura is the station for Yawata-
macM, a suburb of the rising sea-
port town of Wakamatsu (Inn,
Matsui-ro), whence is exported a
large portion of the coal brought
by rail from Nfxjata and other
mines extending some 80 m.
to the southward. In Yawata-
machi stands an iron foundi-y on
the model of Krupp's. The colliery
line is crossed near Orio.

On approaching Ongagmca, a
good Tiew is obtained of the
mountains on the 1. — KurosaM-
yama and Fukuchi-yama, — the
highest point of the line (300
ft. above sea-level) being reached
between this station and AJcama.
Soon we come in view of the
stretch of sea called Genkai Nada.
Just after Kashii, the hot mineral
springs of Arayu are observed 1.
On leaving Hakozaki, the Shinto
temple of Hachiman mentioned
below is seen. It may be a good
plan to alight here, visit the temple,
etc., and rejoin the train at Hakata.

Hakata (Inns, " Matsushima-ya,
Kyo-ya) is the port of Fiikuoka,
the two practically forming but one
city, as they are separated only by
the river Nakagawa. Formerly Ha-
kata was the commercial quarter,
Fukuoka the samurai quarter.
This t^dn city, one of the most
prosperoiis in Kyushu, is chiefly
noted for its silk fabrics, ciilled
Hakaia-ori. The best may be seen
at the Matsui Shokko and at Ito-gen.
These stiitfs. some of which have
a pattern imitating the shimmer
of frost crystals, or moonht water
slightly ruffled by the breeze, are
severe in taste, although extremely
rich. Another beaiitifiil fabric, of
more recent origin, is the trans-
parent e-ori-komi, literally mean-
ing "inwoven pictures," the thread

Hakala and Fukuoka. Dazaifa.

¥11

being dyecl beforehand in the
proper places.

The Public Garden is a broad
belt of fir-trees laid out in walks.
It contains a memorial to H6j6
Tokimune, the then de facto
ruler of Japan, whose forces
in the 13th century met and anni-
hilated at this spot the fleet sent
by Kublai Khan to conquer Japm.
(The Chinese pronounce " Kublai "
Ku-pi-lieh, and this is still further
altered by the Japanese to Kop-
pitsu-retsu.) In the street called
Nemhutsu-macln, an enormous
Inonze Buddha is being gradually
erected out of contributions from
the faithful, as women contribute
metal mirrors by the thousand to
be melted down. About 1 m. from
the Public Garden is the celebrated
Shint5 temple known as Hakozaki
Hachiman-gu, standing in tastefully
laid-out grounds with a fine avenue
of fir-trees which extends down to
the sea-shore. From here an excur-
sion may be made to Najmia, about
;3.J m. by road, crossing a ferry over
an arm of the sea close to the
railway bridge, and turning 1. by
the shore to a slight elevation
on which stands a very old tem-
ple deilicated to Benzai-ien. The
spot commands a tine view of the
bay and islands. Below, on the
shore, lie sections of a petrified
fir-tree, said by tradition to be
the mast of the jtink in which
the Empress Jingo was wrecked
when returning from Korea. On
the way back to the town, we pass
the dilapidated ]3uddhist temple of
Sofukuji, containing the handsome
tombs of the former lords of
Chikxizen.

From the port of Hakata, which
has a i)ier over 400 ft. in length,
steamers to Nagasald and the south,
and to Shimonoseki and Osaka ply
almost daily.

Fukuoka (Lins, Ryojun-kwan,
Kaiyo-kwan), formerly the seat
of the Kxiroda family, lords of
Chikuzen, is now capital of a
prefectiare. Daimyo-machi and

Tenjin-machi, extending from the
castle to the prefecture, are ex-
ceptionally fine streets. The-
castle is occupied by a garrison.
The Public Garden [JSfishi Koen)
deserves a visit, for the sake of the
views Avhich it affords. At the base
seawards stands a small shrine,
and at low tide a pleasant walk
leads back to the town round the
promontory.

Atago-saii may be ascended, for
v/hich J hr. will suttice. JinriM-
shas can be sent round to the
western base, whence, continuing
the excursion, we reach (2 ri fur-
ther) Mei-no-hamn. From here a
detour should be made r. to a shrine
of Bishamon, situated at the top of
a lofty, well-wooded hill, which juts
out into , the sea and affords a
charming view. Time, 1^- hr. The
road runs alternately by the sea
and through fir plantations.

The neighbourhood of Fukuoka
boasts two waterfalls. One, called
Kwaran-taki, at the source of the
Moromi-gawa, is distant about 4J ri,
of which 4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama
can be done in jinrikisha. The fall
measures about 100 ft. in height.
The other, called Eaizan no Toro-
daki, on Ikazuchi-yama, lies 3 ri off
by jinrikisha, and \\ ri on foot.

Between Hakata and Zassho-no-
kurna, the highest range on the r.
is that dividing the proAinces of
Chikuzen and Hizen. Patsuka-ichi
is the station for Dazaifu, a httle
under 1 ri to the N. by jinrikisha.
Rather than stay at Futsuka-ichi,
notwithstanding the hot spring in.
its suburb of Yumachi, it is best ta
sleep at Dazaifu itself, the con-
course of pilgrims thither having
created a village with numerous
good inns (Izumi-j'a, best). Dazaifu
is one of the most celebmted places
in Kyushu, both for historicrJ rea-

In early times Dazaifu was the seat of
the Governor-cieTieralshixi of the island of
Kyushu, — a post which though apparently
honourable, was often used as a form of
exile for ofl'enders of high rank. The
most celebrated of these exiled governors

478

Route 57. — North-Western Kyushu.

was Sugawara-no-Michizane. who is wor-
Bhipped under the name of Tenjin (see
p. 56).

sons and on account of the great
Shinto temple dedicated to Tenjin,
the model from which are copied
the Kameido temple at T5ky6 and
other shrines to the same god
throughout the empire. The court-
yard contains a number of excellent
bronzes representing cows, mytho-
logical monsters, etc., and many
magnificent camphor-trees. Chief
festivals on the 24-2.5l;h days, second
moon, and 22-25th days, eighth
moon, old style. All the buildings
are to be repainted for 1902, the
thousandth anniversary of Tenjin's
death. The sights of Dazaifu may
easily be done in 2 hrs., so that it
■will be sufficient to stop between
trains.

The prominent hill, crowned by
a single fir-tree, which stands out
to the r. at Futsuka-ichi station, is
called Tempai-zan, and commands
an extensive view. From it IVIichi-
zane, looking towards Kyoto, wor-
shipped the emperor by whom he
had been exiled, — a circumstance
which has given its name to the
place.

To all true Japanese the Mikado is a
God upon K.arth {Ikl-gami), and instinc-
tively they put in practice the maxim,
"Though he slay me, yet will I trust in
him."

Just beyond Ilaruda, the line sud-
denly passes out of the foot-hiUs
of the already mentioned range
separating Chikuzen from Hizen,
and then runs through a district
devoted to the cultivation of the
vegetable wax-tree.

Tosu, though a junction, is an

insignificant hamlet.

Kurume [Tan, Shio-ya), which
lies on the 1. bank of the Chiku-
go-gawa, produces vast quantities
of kasuri, a blue cotton figured
fabric extensively used for clothing
and bed-quilts. Two ri from Kuru-
me stands Kora-san, a famous
Shint5 temple, the goal of many
pilgrimages, — festival on the 9th
day of the 9th moon, old styie.

Yabekawa is the station for
Yanarjawa, which possesses the re-
mains of a castle. At Setaka, close
by, is a laree sake factory. Near
Omuta (Inns, Jugo-an, Yamakawa-
yal, the works of the Miike Coal
Mines are indicated by the smoke
rising from them. The prisoners of
the Shuchi-krcan, one of the largest
convict establishments in the em-
pire, are employed to dig out the
coal. This whole district is car-
boniferous, Xana-wa,_on the sea-
shore 20 cho from Omuta, being
specially productive.

JIuch rice is exported from
Takase, where good views are ob-
tained of Onsen-ga-take on the
Shimabara peninsula. Near Kono-
ha, but not visible from the railway,
is a small eminence called Taicara-
zaka, crowned by a marble mono-
lith erected to the memory of the
soldiers who fell during the fierce
fighting that raged for eighteen
days in this neighljourhood during
the Satsuma Rebellion.

Kumam.oto (Inns. *Togi-ya
Shiten, with Europ. food and
beds ; Togi-ya Honten, also good ;
Hakusui-kwan. and others in

The illustration on the opposite page shows Kiimamoto Castle in its
original perfect state, — a typical specimen of this style of edifice. The
chief parts were :

1. Geba-bashi (Dismounting

Bridge).

2. Minami-zaka (Southern Ap-

proach).

3. The Dai myo's Residence.

4. The South Gate.

5. Taiko-yagura (Drum TmTet).

('). Take-no-maru.

7. Ichi-no-tenshu (First Keep).

8. Ni-no-tenshu (Second Keep).

9. Udo-yagura (Turret).

10. Umaya-bashi (Stable Bridge).

11. Yabu-uo-uchi-bashi (Bridge).

480

Route 58. — I/iko-san and Yabakei.

Semba ; Europ. resit., Kaiyo-tei in
the Meiji-bashi-dori), formerly the
seat of the Daimyos of Higo, and
now chief town of a prefecture
co-extensive with that jjrovince,
lies on the river Shirakawa, 4 m.
from its month. It has several broad
streets planted with trees, and
so many of the houses are sur-
rounded by gardens that, seen from
a height, the city presents rather
the aspect of a vast park. One
turret remains of the gi'eat Castle
built three centm-ies ago by Kat5
Kiyomasa (see p. 76). Permission
to visit the castle grounds, locally
known as Shidan on account of the
large garrison now quartered there,
may generally be obtained at the
prefecture (Kencho) by showing
one's passport.

A visit should be paid to the
temple of Hommyoji, just outside
the town, belonging to the Nichiren
sect of Buddhists whom Kato so
zealously protected, while persecut-
ing their enemies the Christians.
This popular shrine, which is
reached by a long flight of steps
lined on either side -^dth cherry-
trees, is much resorted to by people
possessed of the fox,* or labouring
under other grave disorders. On
great days oi pilgrimage, the
cadenced prayer Namu Myoho
Benge Kyo can be heard, like the
roar of the waves, far beyond the
sacred precincts.

The citizens of Kumamoto are
very proud of their park called
Suizenji, 1^ m. to the S.E. of the
city, — once the garden of the
country seat of the Hosokawa
family.

It is half-a-day's expedition from
Kumamoto to Kimbo-san, 2,100
ft. above the sea, the first 30 did
being done in jinrildsha as far as
the village of SJdmazaka, whence it
is a walk up of about 3 ri by a
rough path. The view from the

* For this curious superstition, see
Things Jupano'e, article entitled Demo-
niacal Possession.

top is very fine, embracing the gulf
of Shimabara, the towering form of
Fugen-dake on the Shimabara
peninsula to the W., the island of
Amakusa, and to the S. the moun-
tains of Satsuma. Almost due E.
lies Aso-san, with its great column
of smoke. Further N. runs another
range of hills appearing to the 1. of
the road between Yamaga and
Kumaruoto, while below are the
wdde f)]ain, the city with its
pictiu'esque old castle, and the
serpentine windings of the Shira-
kawa.

The plain over which the railway
passes is very fertile and studded
with towns and villages.

Yatsushiro [Lms, * Obi - ya,
Yusui-kwan) is a large town noted
for its faience, the manufacture of
which, like that of Satsuma, is
traceable to Korean potters.

Capt. Brinkley, K.A., writes of it as
follows: — "It is the only Japanese ware
in which the characteristics of a Korean
original are unmistakably presei-ved. Its
diai^hanous, ijearl-grey glaze, uniform,
lustrous, and fiuely crackled, overlying
encaustic decoration in white slip, the
fineness of its warm reddish pate, and
the general excellence of its technique,
have always commanded admiration. It
is produced now in considerable quan-
tities, but the modern ware falls far
short of its predecessor."

ROUTE 58.

HiKo-sAN AND Yabakei.

This is a 3 or 4 days' trip from
Moji through some of the most
fantastic scenery in Kyvishu. and
away from beaten bracks.

Kail from Moji south-eastwards
via Yukuhashi Junct., where change
into br.mch Une, the so-caUed
Hoshii Jiaihcay built to tap the
collieries of Kawara, Ita, and

Hiko-aan and Yabakei.

481

Gotoji ; for the whole country here-
abouts is carboniferous, though
little or nothing appears on the
surface.

Distance

from

Names of Stations

Yukuhashi

YUKUHASHI Jet.

3 m.

Toyotsu

6-L

Saikawa

m.-

Yusubaru

14f

Kawara

IG}

Ita

(xotoji

20^

Miyatoko

Alight at Yusuharu, whence by
jinrikisha to the vUl. of Ten-ya-
zaka, 3 n, and on foot or horseback
a little over 1 ri more to the vill. of

Hiko-san, situated on the side
of the three-peaked mountain of
the same name. Numerous bms;
— Temma-ya and Abura-ya best.
Height of vill., 1,850 ft. above sea-
level, which, combined with delight-
ful verdure and views, recommends
it as a summer resort.

I'rom time immemorial Hiko-san has
ranked as a very holy place : for here
is worshipped Masaya-kachi-kachi-hayahi-
ama-iio-oshi-ho-miiiii-no-Mikoto, eldest
son of the Sun-Goddess {hi-ko, lit. means
"Sun-child"). In the 16th century no
fewer than three thousand x)riests'
dwellings are said to have crowded the
mountain side. Barely 200 now remain,
and the temple buildings have fallen into
i-uinous decay since their disestablishment
and disendowment in 1868. The priests
had been I'anwbushi, — the most ignorant
and superstitious of all the Buddhist,
or rather llyobu Shinto, sects ; but they
had enjoyed an income of 128,000 koku
of rice, and their Zaxu, or high-priest,
who was connected by descent with the
Imperial family, had governed a sur-
rounding territory of 7 ri square and had
lived with all the state of a Daimyo.
On the break up of the old order and
the handing over of the establiahiiKmt
to the "Pure Shintoists," the last Iii;,'h-
priest entered lay life, and is now known
as Baron Takachiho. Quantities of magni-
ficent timber that formerly adorned the
mountain have been ruthlessly felled,
but much yet remains.

Some 60,000 or 70,u00 pilgrims still visit

Hiko-san annually. The chief festivals
are on the 14-15th days of the 3rd moon,
old style, and on the Day of the Bull
in the 8th moon, old style.

Froih the vill. of Hiko-san to the
top of the mountain, 3,850 ft., is
a steep climb of 35 cho, rewarded
by much sylvan beauty and de-
lightfully extensive views. One
may return another way — steep and
stony — via a picturesquely situated
shrine sacred to Buzembo, a goblin
worshipped as the protector of
cattle. There are also other walks
in the vicinity.

Itinekaey from Hiko-san
TO Nakatsu.

HIKO-SAN to Ri Cho M.

TsuldnuM ), x 3 — 7i

Morizane pW^'o^-) 2 - 5

Miyazono 1 31 4^

Kuchi-no-Hayashi ... '2 18 6

Ao 19 3

Hida 7 i

Nakatsu 3 12 8^

Total U b 3^

Leaving Hiko-san, we have a
beaiitiful walk up and down over
moorland with distant views, and
through exquisite forest glades with
purUng brooks which unite to form
the Takase-gawa or Y^amakuni-
gawa, a river whose valley is
romantically enclosed by steep,
rocliy, timbered heights. This
valley, lower down stream, increas-
ing in quaintness and beauty, is
known far and wide under the
name of Yabakei.

It was made known to fame early in
the present century by the great scholar
and poet llai San-yo (see p. 82). He it
was who bestowed on it its present name,
which lie borrowed from a Chinese scene
beloved by the literati of the Middle
Kingdom. The name also includes the
side valley of a small affluent the .Vtoda-
gawa, which there falls in. The stretch
most famous for its beauty is that near
the forking of the streams at the ham-
let of Ao.

Jinrildshas may sometimes be
found at Moiizane, or if not there.

482 Route 59. — From Kumamoto to Noheolu and Oita.

then at Miyazono, or at Kuchv-no-
Jlayushi ; and all these places also
afford passable accommodation.
Should the good inn at Ao, which
was washed away in a great' flood,
be rebuilt, that would be the best
place to stop at to see Yabakei.
Meanwhile, the next best is Jlida,
just below the finest part. It is at
the Asahi-bashi bridge, a short way
below Morizane, that the curious
and beautiful rock scenery com-
mences. Shortly beyond that again,
two or three Daimyos' castles for-
merly crowned the most precipitous
crags, and the whole way on to Ao
and nearly to Hida, the eye is con-
stantly delighted by pinnacled and
castellated crags that resemble the
apparently impossible mountains
of Chinese and Japanese kakemonos.
The charm is immensely increased
by the rich vegetation that mingles
with the rockery to form a fairy
garden. In some few places the
road has been tunnelled through
the rock.

At Ao another stream, the Atodci-
gawa, falls in. Half-an-hour up its
course stands the celebrated and
extremely curious Buddhist temple
of Jiakanji, built on the side of a
steep hill, and containing an im-
mense number of stone images, —
some in shallow caves, some in
the open. There are said to be no
less than 3,700 images on this and
the opposite hill. Any one sleep-
ing at Ao, or at

Hida (Inn, Saiwai-ya), could
spend one or two dehghtful days
exploring the neighbourhood, espe-
cially if he wander as far as the
Fiikase-dani mentioned on p. 472
Some of the finest rocks, with cut-
tings along the cliff, occur a little
below Ao ; but 1 ri further down,
the peculiar scenery ends, and the
road lies mostly away from the
river. There is, however, consider-
able bea\ity all the way to Naka-
tsu (see p. 471), owing to the
fantastic chains of hills which ap-
pear to close the plain in on either
side.

At Nakatsu we rejoin the rail-
way, and a run of 3 hrs. takes us
in to Moji.

Persons pressed for time may get
a good glimpse of Yabakei by tak-
ing train from Moji to Nakatsu,
whence by jinriMsha to Ao the trip
there and Vjack occupying a day.
An alternative way of reaching
Hiko-san is from Dazaifu on the
Kyiishu Railway (12 ri), — 1 day by
jiniikisha and the last part on foot ;
but the route given above includes
the maximum of interest and
beauty.

ROUTE 59.

Fkom Kumamoto to Nobeoka
AND OriA.

THE EAPrOS OF THE GOKASE-GAWA
AND THE ONOGAWA.

Itinerary.

KUMAMOTO to:— Bi Cho M.

Mifune 4 13 lOa

Hamamachi (Yabe). 6 31 1G|

Mamihara 5 30 14j

Mitai 0 — 14|

Miyamizu 4 18 11

Shimmachi 3 — 7J-

Takeshita 1 — 2J

NOBEOKA (6 hrs.

by boat, or) 6 18 15f

Kumata 4 7 10|

Oharu 5 — 12|

Onoichi 3 18 8J

Miya-no-ichi 4 29 ll|

Hosonaga 3 — 7j

Tsuriisaki (5 hrs.

by boat)

OlTA 2 10 5i

Total 60 30 148i

Plus 5 hrs. by boat ; but several
of the distances are approximate
only.

Mikuni-toge. Descent of the Onogawa.

48J

A drawback to the enjoyment of
the manifold beauties of this route
is the difficulty of dividing the
days so as to ensure tolerable ac-
commodation. Either one must go
on the first day to Mamihara,
which is rather long, or stay at
Hamamachi, which affords but
poor shelter and makes the next
day to Miyamizu too long. The
road is level as far as Mifune, be-
yond which ijlace jinrildshas are of
little use. The section between
Mifune and Hamamachi is a grad-
ual ascent with no features of
special interest. After that the
scenery is good the whole way, es-
pecially the approach to Mitai.
Leaving this latter place, the road
enters a magnificent gorge, through
which runs a deej?, emerald green
river, with rocky walls rising on
either side to a height of several
hundred feet. These walls once
formed part of a huge lava stream,
which flowed down from the crater
of Aso-san.

[Oif the road, about 3 n to the
N.E. of Mitai, lies a celebrated
cave called Ama no Iicato, in
which is localised the Shinto
legend of the retirement of the
Sun-Goddess AmaterasiT, for
which see p. 45.]
Miyamizu (fair accommoda-
tion) is prettily situated among
the hills. The road onwards fol-
lows the Gokase-gawa to Shim,-
machi, the copper mines in whose
vicinity were formerly of some
note. From

Takeshita (better sleep at post-
otlice than at the inn), boat can be
taken down the river, which has
some foaming rapids and over-
hanging rocks. Traps are used on
this river for catching trout. They
consist of a kind of cheoaux-de-
fri.se, made of bamboo and fixed
transversely across the stream at
the top of the rapids, the force of
the current being there so gi-eat
that the tish, when once caiight in
the trap, find escape impossible.
Nobeoka {Inn, Kome-ya) is a

considei'able town built on both
sides of the Gokase-gawa. Its
port, Todoro, lies 2^ ri to the S. by
jinriMsha. Two and a half ri to
the N.W. is the waterfall of Muka-
baki, one of the finest in Japan,
whose height is estimated at 240 ft.,
its breadth at 30 ft.

Nobeoka was the last stronghold of the
Satsuma rebelH. On the llth August,
1877, the town siiriendered — 8,000 insur-
gents, among whom nearly 3,000 wound-
ed, giving themselves up. The rebel
chief Saigo, with 500 devoted followers,
fought his way out and escaped to Kago-
shimu,.

On leaving Nobeoka, the road
follows up the Kitagawa from its
mouth until it becomes a tiny rUl.
After crossing the Akamai sn-tbrje,
1,250 ft. above the sea, fair accom-
modation may be had at a farm-
house at Oliaru.

The chief feature of the next
day's journey consists in the high
passes that have to be crossed, —
first the Onoichi-tbije, where a fierce
battle was fought during the
Satsuma Fiebellion, and the beau-
tiful Mikurii-td(je, 2,150 ft. high, so
called because portions of the three
provinces of Hyuga, Bungo, and
Higo are visible from the to]3.
From the summit of this pass to

Miya-no-ichi [Inn, Fuji-ya), is
about 2 ri of constant ascents and
descents. Quitting this town, the
road at first passes along a fine
avenue of cryptomerias, and then
descends to meet the river Ono-
gawa at Hosonaga, a small cluster
of houses. Travellers here usually
abandon the road, and engage a
boat for the rest of the way to Tsu-
rusaki on the coast, whence by
jinrikisha to Oita (see p. 46S).
The voyage down the river in-
cludes the shooting of a fine rapid.

If it be wished to shorten this
trip and yet retain the best part of
it, the boat journey from Hosonaga
may be ended at Ichiba, which is
only an hour- or so down the river
ami includes the finest rapid.

484 Routes 60 & 61. — South-Eastern Kyushu & Kagoshima.

ROUTE 60.

South-Eastkbn Kyushu.

Itinerary.

NOBEOKAto:— Ri Chb M.

Todoro 2 17 6

Tomitaka 3 4 7J

Mimitsu 2 26 6^

Tsuno 2 20 6|

Takanabe i 4 10

Hiiose 3 34 9J

MIYAZAKI 3 11 8

Takaoka 3 22 8|

Yamashita 2 33 l\

Aiimizu 4 12 10|^

Takajo „.... 1 23 4

MIYAKONOJO ... 2 33 1\

Toiiyama 3 13 8^

FUKUYAMA 4 7 10^

Total 45 7 110|-

Time, 3 to 4 days. The best Inns
are at Miyazaki, lliyakonojo, and
Fukiiyama.

The whole stretch of coast south-
wards from Nobeoka to Miyazaki
can be traversed by jinrikisha,
jwssing through the junk harbour
of Mimitsu (whence, according to
legend, Jimmu Tenno set forth
on his conquest of Japan) and the
cosy little town of Takanabe.
Miyazaki is a considerable place,
the capital of a prefecture. Here
the road turns inland up the valley
of the Oyodo-gawa

[There is also a shorter way
from Sliyazaki to Miyakonojo
over the hiUs to the southward,
via Gakunoki and Yamano-
kuchi.']

to Miyakonojo, a fortified town
wMch was unsuccessfully defended
by the rebels towards the close of the
civU war in 1877. The Province of
Hyuya, through which the way lies
so far, is sparsely inhabited by a
population poor, primitive, and
holtUng little intercourse with the
outer world.
The road now enters the prov-

ince of Osumi, formerly belong-
ing to the lords of Satsuma, and
at Fukuyama comes out on the
Bay of Kagoshima. SmaU steamers
ply across the lovely waters of this
bay to the city of Kagoshima,
distant 21 miles.

ROUTE 61.

Kagoshima and Neighboukhood.

1. ways to KAGOSHTMi. 2. KAGO-
SHIMA. 3. VOLCANO OF SAKUEA-
JIMA. 4. VOLCANO OF KIEISHTMA-
YAMA. 5. VOLCANO OF KAIMON-
DAKE.

1. — Ways to Kagoshima.

Kagoshima may be best reached
by steamer (only Japanese food
provided) either from Nagasaki or
from Kobe, — time from the former
port, 14 hrs.; from the latter, 40
hrs. The island and coast scenery
on both routes is of gi-eat beauty,
that from Kobe in particular afford-
ing an excellent opportunity for
seeing the ever lovely Inland Sea
and the Bungo Channel. The ship
enters Kagoshima Bay between
Cape Tatsumi on the r., and the
lofty cone of Kaimon-dake on the
1., — the latter so perfect a likeness
of the great volcano of Eastern
Japan as to have gained for itself
the alternative name of the Satsuma
Fuji. Also on the 1. is seen the en-
trance to Yamatjawa, a convenient
little port of refuge in bad weather.
Proceeding up the gulf, we have
ahead the rugged shape of Sakura-
jima, — not a young volcano like
Kaimon, but worn \%'ith age, though
a thin column of smoke still con-
stantly issues from its summit.
Further ahead, to the r., rises the

Kagoshima.

485

mass of yet another volcanic range,
Kirishima-yama, and soon we are
off Kagoshima. The harbour is so
deep as to cause inconvenience, —
as much as 40 and even 80 fathoms.
The steamer anchors close to the
shore in 13 fathoms.

Kagoshima may also be reached
from Nagasaki by the Itinerary
given in Eoute 63 reversed.

2. — Kagoshima.

Kagoshima {Inns, Watanabe
and others, all at the landing-
place ; Europ. resit. Kakumei-kwan),
capital of the prefecture of the
same name, is the southernmost
great city of Japan. Though less
bustling nowadays than its north-
ern rivals, the breadth and cleanli-
ness of its streets, the purity of its
air, and its proximity to so much
beautiful scenery give it a claim
to attention, even apart from the
leading role which it has played in
modern Japanese history.

The seat for many ages of the Shimazu
family, lords of Satauma, Osumi, and part
of Hyuga, and suzerains of Luchu,
Kagoehima was a centre of political ac-
tivity between the year 1851, when the
first treaty with the United States was
concluded, and the revolution of 1808,
which was in a great measure brought
about by the energy and determination of
the Satsuma men. On the 15th August,
186), Kagoshima was bombarded by a
British squadron of seven ships under
Admiral Kuper, and a large part of the
town was burnt, in consequence of tlie
refusal to give satisfaction for the murder
in 1862 of O.L. Richardson, a British sub-
ject, who had beeu cut down near Yoko-
hama, forgetting in the way of the Daimyo
of Satsuma's train (couip p. 110). Most of
the forts were dismantled, in spite of a
typhoon which raged thioughout the day;
but the squadron also suflered consider-
ably. The captain and commander of the
flag-ship were killed on the bridge by
a round shot, and the total loss in killed
and wounded was sixty-three. After
the revolution, many of the Satsuma
men became diissatisfied with the
Europeanising policy of the Imperial Gov-
ernment. Their di-scontent culminated
in 1877, in a rebellion headed by Saigo
Takamori (p. 82). This, which is known
to history as the "Satsuma Rebellion,"
was suppressed after some eight or nine

months warfare, when the town of Kago-
shima again fell a prey to the flames.
Saigo himself fought bravely on Sliiro-
yama, a hill behind the town, where the
Daimyo's castle formeily stood. Of this
there now remains but a part of the wall,
on which the bullet marks are still plain-
ly visible. Thus ended the last serious
attempt to oppose the development of the
enlightened principles of government that
have transformed the political condition
of modern Japan.

TTie cave in which Saigo com-
mitted harakiri when he saw that
all was lost, stands a short way
behind the town, but less well re-
pays a visit than the Cemetery,
where he lies buried with many
hundreds of his warriors, and where
a festival is celebrated in his
honour on the 28th day of the 6th
moon, old style. Fukushoji, the
burial-place of the lords of
Satsuma, is close at hand ; and
some little way off — for Kagoshima
is a city of gi'aves and memories of
the past — is the Loyalist Cemetery
on the sea-shore. Its neglected
state contrasts strangely with the
tender care that is taken of the
rebel graves. It must, however, be
remembered that the rebel dead
are here among their own kinsmen,
whereas almost all the loyalists were
strangers from other provinces.

The Jusamha at Kagoshima is an
interesting institt;tion, established
in 1880 to furnish a livelihood to
the female relatives of the samurai
lulled or ruined in the rebellion.
Some six hundred women are em-
ployed there in the maniifacture
of Satsuma-gasuri, a cotton fabric
used for summer clothing, and of
cigarettes. Notwithstanding its
name, the Satsuma-gasuri origi-
nated in the Luchu Islands, and
the indigo used to dye the cotton
is still imported thence. The ciga-
rettes are made of the best tobacco
which Japan produces, viz. that
grown at Kokubu, at Tarumi, and
at Izumi,— all in this prefecture.

Kagoshima is the seat of the
manufacture of the celebrated Sa-
tsuma crackled faience, the best
pieces of which were produced to

486

Route 61. — Kagoshima and Neighbourhood.

the order of the Daimyo at Tanoura
in the E. suburb of the town.
Work is still carried on there on a
reduced scale ; but the place is worth
the short walk chiefly for the sake
of the beautiful view. The stretch
of coast just beyond is called Iso,
where stands the residence of the
Shiniazu family. Specimens of
Tsuboya porcelain (see p. 489) and of
Luchuan lacquer may be purchased
in the town. Satsuma is also fam-
ed for its camphor, its vegetable
wax, and its horses, a large propor-
tion of these last being milk-white.

A good half -day's walk from Ka-
goshima is up Yoshino-yama, the
bare hill to the N.E. of the town,
commanding a splendid view.

There is steam communication
every four or five days between
Kagoshima and the large islands
of Tane-ga-shima and Yaku-
shima to the south, which present
a striking contrast to each other
in appearance, the former being
long, low, and carefully cultivat-
ed, while the latter is a circular
maze of lofty mountains rising to
a height of over 6,000 ft. and cover-
ed with dense forest, wherein grow
some of the finest cryptomerias in
Japan, — the famous Yaku-surji.
The inhabitants of Yakushima are
said to live in a state of almost
idyllic innocence and security, no
locks or bolts being needed in an
island where thieving is lanknoAvn.

Tane-ga-shima was the first Japanese
dependency on which Mendez Pinto (see
p , 470) set foot : and as a knowledge of
fire-arms was consequently first acquir-
ed there from his followers, and spread
thence to other parts oi: the couutry, a
pistol is still sometimes called f.ane-ga-
shima in colloquial Japanese. The chief
town is Nishi-uo-omote on the N.W.
coast.

3. — Sakuba-jima.

A visit to Sakura-jima makes a
pleasant excursion from Kago-
shima, the j)assage being accom-
pUshed in native sailing-boat.
Cheap omnibus boats may be avail-
ed of at cei-tain hours. The island

is celebrated for its volcano, its hot
springs, its oranges, and its giant
daikon (radishes). Some of these
vegetables weigh over 7i) lbs., the
biggest being produced on the N.
coast. Much sugar-cane is also
grown. The favourite hot springs
of Ari are on the south coast,
where the lava has flowed down to
the sea. This place (3 hrs. by
boat) is generally taken by native
visitors as the starting-point for
the ascent of the volcano, whose
top is reached by a narrow track
chiefly cut through pumice and
overhung by shrubs. The expedi-
tion up and down occupies 6 hrs.
This involves sleeping at Ari,
which is but a poor place. A
better plan, within the limits of
a day from Kagoshima, is to cross
to Take (1 hr.) on the N.W. coast,
where also guides can be engaged.
The mountain is nearly 4,000 ft.
high. There are two craters, — -a
smaller extinct one on the N.W.
side, about "250 ft. deep, and a vei-y
imposing one, 300 or 400 ft. deep,
at the S.E. end, whence issues a
little steam. The view is magni-
ficent. Immediately in fi-ont of
the spectator, to the W., lies the
city of Kagoshima ; on the S.S.W,
rise Kaimon-dake and, in the op-
posite direction the two massive
peaks of the Kirishima range, —
Takachiho on the r., and Karakuni-
mi-dake on the 1. Beyond, in the
distance, are the moimtains of
Hyuga, whilst below, on every
side, stretches the lovely Bay of
Kagoshima dotted with islets.

The last eruption of Sakura-jima took
place in 177;). on the 18th day of the loth
moon, old style. In commemoration of
this, a monthly festival is held, when no
boats are alloAved to leave the island.

4. — KlEISHIMA-YAMA.

Kirishima is not a single volcanic peak,
but a short range with two principal emi-
nences. The eastern one, Higashi Kiri-
shima, called Takachiko-dake and locally
O Take, is celebrated in Japanese my-
thology as the peak on which the god
Ninigi, grandson of the Sun-Goddess .\ma-
terasu, alighted when he came down

Ascent of Kirishima-yama.

487

from heaven to pave the way for the
conquest of Japan by Jiinmu Tenno and
his warrior host (see p. 75). The celebrat-
ed "Heavenly Spear" on the summit of
Takachiho is worshipped as a relic of
this divinity.

The we.stern and higher, but less strik-
ing peak, Nishi Kirishima, has the
alternative name of Karakiini-mi-dake,
from the idea that it aflbrds a view of
China or Korea {Kara). Only Eastern
Kirishima has been active in modern
times. Since its great outburst in October,
1895, it has. in fact, never been altogether
quiet, dense clouds of steam mingled
with sulphur fumes bursting out at in-
tervals. As late as February, 1900, lives
were lost on its side through a sudden
eruption.

This fine expedition takes 3
days. The first stage is by steam-
er from Kagoshima to Uamano-
ichi at the head of the bay, 2^-
hrs., whence on foot or horseback
through interesting scenery via
Okubo to Miya (Tagiichi) at the
foot of the volcano, — 5 or G ri.

Miya (several inns) derives its
name from a large Shinto temple
close by, which is passed on the
way up the mountain next day.
The ascent as far as the crater
occupies 2.} hrs., first through a
wood, then over grass and stones,
. and at last over hard cinders. The
crater lies, not on the top, but on
the side, and is Icnown as the
Mmankone (local patois for uma no
hone, " the horse's bone "), .appa-
rently in allusion to the narrow-
ness of its wall. The dejjth is
about 300 ft., the diameter about
1,500 ft. The neighbourhood is
riddled with holes caiised by stones
ejected from the crater. The ac-
tual summit of the mountain
(5,530 ft.) lies further on, and is
marked by a large pile of stones.
The " Heavenly Spear " already
referred to, the material of which
is bronze, the shape antique, and
the length about 4.] ft., is fixed, in
the ground hilt upwards. The
view is very extensive. The large
lake far below on the E. side of
the mountain is called Mi-ike.
The distance from base to summit
is locally estimated at 2i- ri.

[After descending Higashi Kiri-
shima, one might ascend Nishi
Kirishima ; but the day's work
would be thus inordinately
increased. Nishi Kirishima
may be better taken as a sepa-
rate expedition from the pleas-
ant little spa of Eino, mention-
tioned below. A good hour's
climb from Ein5 brings one to
the edge of a circular crater,
not steaming and sulphurous
like that of Higashi Kirishima,
but calm and clear, and hold-
ing a beautiful lake of emerald
green, from whose margin
rises a belt of fir-trees that
clothe the sides of the precipi-
tous inner wall to its highest
edge. This lake, called Onami-
ike, is about 1 ri in circum-
ference, while the height of the
lowest part of the crater lip is
4,G80 ft. The way to the sum-
mit of the mountain leads
through a dense undergrowth
of bamboo grass and small
trees, before issuing out upon
soft turf. The grand view in-
cludes : — to the S.E., the large
crater of Shimo-Oitake, then
the summit of Oitake, and
beyond, but towering far above
them, the smoking crater and
sharj) peak of Higashi Kiri-
shima ; to the S., Shiraka-dake,
Sakura-jima in the bay of Ka-
goshima, and far away on the
Pacific shore, Kaimon-dake.
Onami-ike lies at the specta-
tors's feet ; and on the N.W., at
a much lower elevation, is Shi-
ratori-san, with two of its three
lakes distinctly \isible. The
top of Nishi Kirishima, 6,050 ft.,
forms the highest point of an
extinct crater, at the bottom of
which lies a mass of slimy
moss and weeds, as if a lake
had just dried up. This sum-
mit is marked by a large cairn
surmounted by an iron trident.
Looking beyond Shiratori-san,
a striking and extensive view
is presented of the mountains

488

Route 62. — Rapids of the Kumagawa.

of central Kyushu, including
Aso-san and Sobo-san.]
From the foot of Higashi Kiri-
shima it is a walk of about 2 hrs.,
with a lovely panorama S. and W.,
to any of the hamlets of Eino,
Mybhan, and hno-ga-tani, collective-
ly known as Kirishima Onsen from
their excellent hot springs, — sid-
phur, salt, iron, and alum, at
different temperatures. The bag-
gage should be sent on here direct
from Miya. The return to Ekima-
no-ichi is a distance of aboiit 7 ri.

5. — Katmon-dake.

The beautiful volcano of Kai-
mon-dake, over 3,000 ft. high, lies
15 ri 7 cho (37 m.) from Kago-
shima, the trip there and back
occupying 3 days. Most of the dis-
tance can be done in jiniikisha,
viz. the 13 ri as far as Yamagawa.
With a fair wind it might be best
to sail to this port. There is rough
accommodation at Kiire and at Ei
(locally pronounced Ye), at the
foot of the mountain.

EOUTE 62.

Feom Kagoshima to Yatstjshiko

VIA KaCHIKI and the RiPIDS

op the Kumagawa.

Itinerary.

KACHIKI to:— Ri Cho M.

Yokogawa 5 31 14^

Kurino 1 28 4|

Yoshimatsu 2 20 6^

Kakuto 2 29 6f

HITOYOSHI 7 30 19 J

Total 20 30 50?-

Down the Kumagawa by boat
from Hitoyoshi to Y'^atsushiro,
taking 5 to 10 hrs., according to

the state of the river. At Yatsu-
shiro, the Kyushu Eailwayis joined
(see p. 476).

[Travellers deskous of visiting
the Kapids direct from Naga-
saki can reach Hitoyoshi via
Misiimi (Tun, Urashima-ya) and
Sashiki {Inn, Ebisu-ya),— so far
by steamer, whence jinrikisha,
about 10 ri. The whole jour-
ney fi-om Nagasaki to Hito-
yoshi will occupy 2 days.]
From Kagoshima to Hitoyoshi
is a 2 days' journey, the first stage
of which is 1| hr. by small steamer
to

Kachiki (Inn, Kawabata), 10 m.
distant at the head of the gulf. In
this neighbourhood are two gold
mines belonging to the lord of
Satsuma. From Kachiki one can
go the rest of the way by jinriki-
sha, but two men are necessary on
account of the hills. The first
night should be spent at Kurino
{Inn by Yamaguchi Zennosuke), as
otherwise the second day becomes
too long. Accommodation is also
to be had at Yokogawa, Yoshida,
and Kakuto ; but all the places be-
tween Kachiki and Hitoyoshi are
small and poor. Of the scenery,
which is mediocre, the best parts
are after leaving Kurino, where
the road leads up the valley of the
Sendai-gaioa, also called Masaki-
gawa in its upper course, and the
park-like country on the way up
the long pass ("ii ri up and the
same down) dividing Kakuto from
Okoba. Looking backwards as one
ascends, the view extends as far
south as Sakura-jima. The volcano
occasionally seen smoking away
to the r. is Higashi Kirishima.

Hitoyoshi (Inn, Tokura-y a,
close to the boat station in Koko-
noka-machi), a town occupying
much space on both banks of the
Kumagawa, was formerly the seat
of the Sagara family, and is the
starting-point for the descent of
the Eapids of the Kumagawa.
The innkeeper will arrange for a
private boat ; the omnibus boat,

Route 63. — Through Satsuma & Amakusa to Nagasaki. 489

into which twelve people are pack-
ed, is not recommended.

The rapids begin immediately
below Hitoyoshi, and succeed each
other at frequent intervals during
the 40 miles thence to the sea;
but the best occur during the
first 25 miles. The scenery is
pleasing the whole way, high hills
on either hand hemming in the
stream which turns and twists in a
surprising manner. Surprising,
too, is the prosperity of this remote
district, — cultivation in every
available nook, and villages in-
numerable, whose solid two-storied
buildings testify to the modest
wealth of this happy and self-
sufficing valley, where the forests
aft'ord game, the water immense
quantities of trout, and the
lower slopes of the hills all those
forms of vegetable produce which
go to make up a good Japanese
diet. About half-way down is a
grand cave, called Konose no Itca-
do, situated on the r. bank two or
three min. walk from the river.
Its dimensions have been estimat-
ed as follows : — length, 250 ft.;
height, 250 ft.; breadth, 200 ft. As
the walls are formed of ciystalline
limestone, the water that exudes
through them redeposits the lime
in the form of stalactites. The
river issues into the plain at the
vill. of Fkiruia, about 1 ri above
Yatsushiro. From here onwards,
the whole r. bank is artificially
constructed, and planted with pine
and cherry-trees.

This embankment, which also serves as
a road, is one of the great works be-
queathed to posterity by Kato Kiyomasa,
•who furthermore diverted a portion of
the waters of the river to the r. of the
embankment, in order to fertilise a vast
extent of rice-bearing land.

"X atsusliiro (see p. 480).

ROUTE G3.

Thkough Satsuma and Amaktjsa
TO Nagasaki.

Most people bound from Kago-
shima to Nagasaki take steam-
er, advertised to make the pas-
sage in 14 hrs. Those desirous of
treading unbeaten tracks might
follow the Itinerary here given.

KAGOSHIMA to :— Bi Cho M.

Ichiki-Minato 8 32 21^

Sendai (Mukoda)... 4 6 10^

Nishikata 4 4 10

Akune 15 8J

Kuro-no-seto ferry

(aboiat 2^ hrs.)

S. end Nagashiiua

(about J hr.)

Kuranomoto

(about 2^ hrs.)
Ushibuka

(2 to 4 hrs.)
Hondo

(about 4 hrs.)

Oni-ike 3 — 7^

Kuchinotsu

(about 2 hrs.)

Unzen 6 8 15^

Obama 2 18 6

Mogi (about 3 hrs.)
NAGASAKI 2 — 5

Total 34 11 83|

Plus the time items given for
actual sea passages, and a broad
margin for unavoidable delays.

An excellent hasha road runs the
whole way from Kagoshima to
Akune (and indeed right on to
Kumamoto). For the first day, as
far as Sendai, the scenery is dull,
with low hills of pumice and many
rice-fields ; but the traveller may
visit on the way the potteries oj
Tsuboya (about 6 ri fi'om Kago-
shima) in the district of Ijuin.

The inhabitants of this village are of
Korean origin, being the desi-endants of
a colony of potters brought hither at the
end of the 17th century, when Hideyoshi
had conquered their native country. The

490 Route 64. — Tlie Goto Islands, Tsushima, and Fusan.

ruined ceramic art of Korea thus rose
again, phcenix-like, on Japanese soil.
The. intellifjeut reader will not need to
have pointed out to him how very recent
the so-called "ancient Satsuma ware"
really is, — even in its e:uliest specimens,
of which it is the rarest thing in the world
to obtain a glimpse. This village is the
headquarters of the manufacture, and the
best house is that of Chin Ju Kwan.

Between Icliild and Sendai, we
pass some small gold-stamping
factories (Segano Kinzan), belong-
ing to the lord of Satsuma. The
sea-coast is reached near Nishikata,
whence onwards the whole ronte
is interesting, affording lovely sea-
views, with Koshiki-jima in parti-
cular standing out prominently to
the S.W. At

Akune {Inn, Nakamura) we
leave the high road, to proceed
northward on foot to the Kuro-no-
seto channel, where cross by ferry
to Nariashima. A walk through
this island brings us to Kurano-
moto, whence by fishing boat over
to

TJsliibuka (good accommoda-
tion), the second largest town in
the island of

Amakusa.

This island has a somewhat sad history
in connection with Christianity in Japan.
In the year 1077 the Daimyo issued a pro-
clamation whereby all his subjects were
required either to turn Christian, or to
go into exile the very next day. The
great majority submitted and were bap-
tised. But the next century witnessed
a revolution in the oppo.site direction.
"The Shoguu [lemitsuj sent orders to the
Daimyos of Kyushii, and at that time the
whole of the [Christian] sect was destroy-
ed, and the world became tranquil. The
many ten thovi.sandn of their heads were
collected, and being divided into three
lots, were buried in Nagasaki, Shimabara,
and Amakusa." (Quoted from Inscrip-
tions in Shimabara and Amakusa, by Eev.
H. Stout, "Trans, of Asiat, Soc. of Japan,"
Vol. vn.)

Amakusa produces a little coal.
The poor soil is made the most of
by cultivation, the system of ter-
racing being carried to unusual
perfection here and in the adjacent
lesser islands.

A small steamer leaves Ushibuka
daily for Hondo, also called Machi-

yama-rjuchi {Inn, Asahi-ya), the
capital of the island ; but owing to
the silting up of the extremely
narrow channel that separates
Upper fTom Lower Amakusa, pas-
sengers generally have to do the
last ri from Omon-domaii to Hondo
on foot. From Hondo to Oni-ike
{Inn, Kome-j^a), in jinrikisha or on
foot, thence by sailing-boat to
Kuchinotsu, and on foot via Tani-
cjawa over Unzen to Obama, and
across by steamer to Mogi for
Nagasaki (see Route 53).

ROUTE 64.

The Goto Islands, Tsushima,
AND Fusan.

A bi-monthly steamer service is
maintained by the Nippon Yiisen
Kwaisha to Vladivostock, affording
travellers an opportunity of visiting
the Got5 Islands, Tsushima, and
the Japanese settlement of Fusan
in Korea. The round trip from
Kobe to Vladivostock occupies 24
days ; from Nagasaki, 17 days.
Those wishing to proceed to Vla-
divostock must obtain passports
fi'om their consul, such passports
to be vised by the Russian consul.
This latter formality is essential.
No passports for Korea are issued
out of the country itself. They
must be secured by the traveller on
arrival, through the considate of his
nationality. Travellers whose time
is limited can go from Nagasaki to
Fusan, where a stay of two days
may be partly occupied in visiting
the old Korean city, which is within
easy reach of the Japanese settle-
ment, and then returning to Naga-
saki direct.

Fukue {Inn, Shiozuka-ya), capi-
tal of the island of the same name,
the largest of the Goto gi'oup, is

Ts u shim a. Fumi i .

491

about 50 m. distant from Nagasaki.
The steamer stays here for a few
hours, affording time to see the
remains of the old Daimyd's castle
and the garden, which must once
have been very beautiful. Near the
town are some striking dome-shap-
ed hills, — ]Drobably extinct vol-
canoes,— nov/ cultivated from base
to summit, their craters filled with
shrubs and rank vegetation. Deer
and other game abound on this and
the other islands of the groiip ;
trout also are plentiful in the
moimtain streams.

Through the untiring efforts of the
Koman Catholic njlssionaries, working in
a field well-sown by their predecessors in
the 16th and 17th centuries, the popula-
tion of the Goto Islands consists largely
of Christians.

Izu-ga-hara {Inn, Yoshida-ya),
the capital of Tsushima, about 100
m. distant from Fukue, is charming-
ly situated in a ravine enclosed by
wooded hills, some of which are
about 1,200 ft. high. Tsushima
has an area of 262 sq. miles, and is
equidistant from the Japanese
island of Iki and from Korea, being
48 m. from each. A deej) sound
divides it into two unequal parts.
The southern portion is moun-
tainous (2,100 ft. high), the northern
much lower.

Tsushima means " the island of the
port," a name probably bestowed from
the fact of this place, with its fine
harbours, having been from time im-
memorial the midway haltiug-place for
junks plying between Jaj)an and the
mainland of Asia. Tsushima is mention-
ed iu the Kojiki as one of the Eight Great
Islands of Japan, to which Izanagi and
Izanami gave birth at the beginning of all
things. In later days, the Daimvos of
Tsushima served as intermediaries in all
international relations between Japan and
Korea. Kublai Khan's soldiers landed
on Tsushima, and also on Iki, when pre-
paring to invade Japan in the i;ith cen-
tury, but were repulsed and their com-
mander slain. The Russians endeavour-
ed to obtain a footing in Tsushima in
1861, but were soon forced by British
intervention to abandon the attempt;
and Tsushima remains, now as ever, part
and parcel of the Japanese dominions,
inhabited by a Japanese-speaking popula-
tion.

The principal product of the is-
land is dried cuttle-fish {iku), which
is held in high esteem by the
Japanese. It may be interesting to
note that the variety of pheasant
generally found on the island of
Tsushima is the ringed pheasant of
China, not the common Japanese
green pheasant.

Quitting Tsushima, a run of 65
m. lands the traveller in

Fusan, called Pusan by the
Koreans (good Japanese accom-
modation, with European food),
near the south-eastern tip of the
Korean peninsula, where the Japa-
nese have had a settlement from
time immemorial. The change
which this short distance effects in
everything that meets the eye is
strongly marked. The beautifully
wooded hills and ravines of Tsu-
shima are replaced by endless hUls
covered with coarse grass and
dwarf pines, interrupted here and
there by outcrops of bare rock.
The dirty white dress of the Ko-
reans, their squahd dwellings, their
rude manners, and tlirty habits,
all atford a striking contrast to the
charming land we have left be-
hind. The harbour of Fusan, how-
ever, is pretty, lying under the
shelter of a large island named by
the early navigators " Deer Island."
The chmate, too, is salubrious. The
Japanese Settlement of Fusan differs
but little from an ordinary Japa-
nese town ; it contains some credi-
table builchngs, and is well-situat-
ed for piirposes of trade.

The steamers continue on up
the Korean and Siberian coasts, as
indicated on the preceding page,
touching at Gensan, where there is
a flourishing Japanese colony, and
at Vladivostock.

SECTION VII.
NORTHERN JAPAN

(Routes 6^ — 78.

Boute 65. — The Northern Railway.

495

KOUTE 65.

(Conf. map facing p. 97.)
The Noktheen Railway.

feom tokyo to aomoei by rail,
azuma-yama. iizaka. zoo-san.
the kitakami-gawa. ascent of
ganju-san.

Names

a a >)

Remarks

ft '

Stations

TOKYO (Ueno).

2m.

Tabata

Oji

/Change trains
in coming S.

Aiabane Jet

J for Shimba-

) shi (Tokyo)
and Y o k 0-

Warabi

V hama.

i2i

Urawa

fFor Takasaki

163

Omiya Jet

1 and Karui-
( zawa.

Hasuda

28j

Kuki

331

Kurihashi

38'

Koga

43i

Mamada

Change for

OYAMA Jet ....

Maebashi
j and for

52 ^

Koganei

[ Mito.

57'

Ishibashi

Siiznme-no-miya

65:;

UTSUXOMIYA. .

(Change for
( Nikko.

69 »

Okamoto

76|

Ujiie

81 a

Kataoka

853

Yalta

Nozaki

Nishi Naauno . .

(Alight for
\ Shiobara.

Hi^ashi Nasuno

99i

Kuroiso

Alight for Nasu.

104i

Kuro-tawara

109^

Toyohara

1153

SHIRAKAWA

12]|

Izumi-saki

125

Yabuki

lo2i

Sukegawa

(Change for

139:}

KORIYAMA ....

1 Bandai and
( Wakamatsu.

143

Hiwada

148

Motomiya

154

Nihonmatsu

1593

Matsukawa

168

FUKUSHIMA ..

(Change for
\ Yonezawa.

1733

Nagaoka

1761

Kori

184i

Kosiigo

189i

Shiroishi

197J

Ogawara

202i

Tsukinoki

206.1

Iwanuma Jet

(For B. Coast
\ Railway.

2103

Masuda

214^

Nagamachi

fBranch to

217i

SENDAI

Shiogama

for Matsu-

( shima.

222i

Iwakiri

2243

Bifu

232

Matsushima

238*

Kashimadai

2441

Kogota

2513

Semine

2.57^

Nitta

261i

Ishikoshi

266j

Hanaizumi

274

ICHINOSEKI

278i

Hiraizumi

283

Maesawa

2891

Mizusawa

294|

Kane-ga-saki

300,1

Kurosawa- jiri . .

Road to AMta.

308

Hanamaki

315

Ishidoriya

318i

Hizume

3233

Yahaba

330

MORIOKA

Road to AMta.

343

Koma

346J

Kawaguchi

3491.

Numakunai

3571

Nakayama

367

Kozuya

3693

Ichinohe

3733

Fukuoka

■385

Sannohe

Road to Towada.

3903

Ken-yoshi

397J

Shiriuchi

I Branch to Ha-
\ chinohe.

404^

Shimoda

4103

Furumaki

417|

Numasaki

421+

Otsutomo

430i

Noheji

434|

Kai'iba-sawa

441

Kominato

4471

Asamiishi

4503

Nouchi

4551

Uramaehi

457

AOMORI

The Northern Eailway (Nippon
Teisudo) follows the old highway
called the Oshii Kaido pretty close-
ly, except between Sendai and
Ichinoseki, and again in the extreme
N. between Sannohe and Noheji, in
both of which sections it bends
away E. to avoid the hills. The

496

Route 65. — The Northern Railway.

Oshu Kaido is well-maintained
throughout its length of 19i ri from
Tokyo to Aomori, and remains one
of the finest roads in the empire.
The pines, cryptomerias, and other
•conifers lining it are frequently
seen from the carriage windows ;
but not untU the train reaches
Utsunomiya, — the junction for
Nikko, — with the glorious range of
mountains rising in the back-
ground, can this railway route be
said to afford much in the way of
natural beauty. The best places at
which to break the journey are
Fukushima, Sendai, and Morioka.

As far as Omiya, the Northern
line coincides with the Tokyo-
Takasaki Railway described on p.
178. A short distance beyond
Kiirihashi, the Tonegawa is
crossed on a fine iron bridge.

This river, whicli waters the phiin of
Tokyo, rises on Hodaka-yama in the prov-
ince of Kotsuke, and after a course of
170 m., empties itself into the Pacific at
Choshi, while a second arm falls into
Tokyo Bay. Lagoons line its lower
course, and from both mouths sandbanks
stretch out far into the sea. The Daiya-
gawa, which flows through Nikko, is one
of its affluents. Owing to the volume of
the river and the flatness of the surround-
ing country, inundations with disastrous
results are frequent. The name Tone seems
to be a relic of the time when the Ainos
inhabited Eastern Japan, before the
Occupation of the country by the Japa-
nese. It is a corruption of the Aino word
tanne, " long," this river having natural-
ly been called the Long Kiver, in con-
tradistinction to the shorter ones of the
same district.

Koga (Inn, Ota-ya) was formerly
the residence of a Daimyo. Eiver
steamers run from here to Tokyo
daily, making the passage in about
14. hrs. Beyond this place many
mountains come in view, — the twin
peaks of Tsukuba on the r. (see p.
150), and the Ashikaga hills to the
1., with the giants of Nikko looming
in the distance ahead.

Oyama (Inn, Kado-ya) is a
prosperous town, where a line to
Maebashi for Ikao (see p. 195)
branches off 1. through a rich silk
flistrict. Another branch line here

diverges r. to Mito, capital of the
province of Hitachi, 41 ^ m.

Utsunomiya (Inn, * Shiroki-ya),
formerly the castle-town of a Dai-
myo, is now the capital of the pre-
fecture of Tochigi. It takes its
name fi-om the large Shinto temple
(miya) of Futa-ara-yama-no-Jinja, or
Nikko Dai-myojin, dedicated to the
memory of a son of the Emperor
Sujin.

This prince, who belongs to the legen-
dary period of .Japanese history, is said to
have been appointed ruler of Eastern
Japan, and to have founded several
families of local chieftains.

The Kinugawa, whose en'atic
course in flood-time has given much
trouble to the railway engineers, is
crossed beyond Okamoto, whence
alternate cultivation and woods
characterise the country until the
line enters the wide plain of Nasu,
in the midst of which stand

Nishi Nasuno (Inn, Yamato-
ya), the station for the mineral
springs of Shiobara described on
pp. 218-20, and

Kuroiso (Inn, Tabako-ya), for
the springs of Nasu at the foot
of the volcano of the same name.
This prominent peak, may be
distinguished by the white mass
of vapour rising from the crater on
its W. side. The highest point of
the range to the r. is Yamizo-yama.
The hne continues to ascend by
more or less steep gi-adients, until
an elevation of 1,160 ft. is reached
at

Sh.iraka'wa (Inn, Yanagi-ya),
formerly the seat of a Daimyo.
The train passes within sight of
the ramparts of the old castle. The
town is situated on the upper
waters of the Abukuma-jawa,
which rises on Asahi-dake, and
flowing N., falls into the Bay of
Sendai, — total length, 125 m. In
the neighbourhood of Yabuki He
an Imperial domain and game
preserves.

Koriyama (Lm, Kiku-ya) is a
prosperous town, in whose vicinity
silkworm-breeding and the manii-

Fukushima. Azuma-yama. lizaka.

497

facture of silk are extensively car-
ried on. A tramway leads from the
station to Mihnru, a busy place, 8
m. distant. The massive mountain
group on the 1. between Motomiya
and Nihonmatsu is Adatara-san.
It shuts out all view of Bandai-san,
which, from certain points, it
somewhat resembles.

Nihon-matsu (Inn, Yamada-ya)
stands on the side of a steep hill,
and extends 1 ri in length. It is
one of the principal silk-producing
localities in the province of Iwa-
shiro. The valley of the Abukuma-
gawa opens out soon after Matsu-
kavxi is passed, and the broad
sweep of country to the 1. is very
fine.

Fukushima (Inni Matsuba-
kwan, 5 min. from station ; Kami-
yasu, at station) is the capital
of the prefecture of the same
name, and was formerly the
castle-town of the Itakura family.
It is a good place at which to break
the journey northwards. Fuku-
shima is an important centre of the
trade in raw sUk and silkworms'
eggs, and during the season forms
the headquarters of the Tokyo
buyers. The pine-clad hill called
Shinobu-yama, a prominent feature
in the landscape, deserves a visit
for the sake of the view of the wide
moimtain-girt plain, which is
obtained from a shrine at the top.
The inhabitants recommend a visit
(in jinriMsha or on foot) to a small
temple of the Tendai sect of Bud-
dhists, known as Shinohu Mojizurl
Kwannon, about 1 J ri from the town.
In a pagoda here are enshrined
images of the Gochi Nyorai, or Five
Personifications of Wisdom. The
Mojizuri-ishi, or " letter-rubbing
stone ", is a huge block of granite
to which freqiient allusion is found
in Japanese poetry. Neither the
origin nor the appropriateness of
the name of the stone can be
verified, and probably few foreign-
ers wUl discover in the place that
interest which Japanese literary
convention assigns to it.

Tradition asserts that the plain in which
Fukushima lies was anciently the site of
a large lake, near whose centre Shinobu-
yama formed an island. History makes
no mention of the town until some three
or four hundred years ago, while lizaka,
just beyond the plain, is frequently refer-
red to. When Yoshitsune, flying north-
ward from the machinations of Yoritomo,
found refuge in the castle of Otori , near
lizaka, it is said that he reached it by the
circuitous road which still skirts the base
of Azuma-yama, because no shorter route
then existed. Further, a stone tablet near
the Shinobu Mojizurl records the arrival
there of an official from Kyoto by boat
from the west side of the lake.

To the W. of Fukushima lies
Azuma-yama (6,365 ft.), a vol-
cano long considered extinct, but
which has been the scene of several
eruptions since the year 1893.

The latest occurred in July, 1900, when
82 men employed in digging sulphur on
the 8 W. side of the mountain, this part
of which is called Numajiri-yama, were
killed or wounded. The ashes covered
the country for a distance of .5 m. accu-
mulating in some places to a depth of
5 It. The crater then formed measures
about ;hoo ft. iu diameter.

The way to Azuma-yama passes
through Mioasaka, 4| m. by train
from Fukushima, and Takayu, 2J
ri on foot, where sleep at inn with
sulphur spring ; thence 3 hrs. walk
to the summit of the mountain.

The popular mineral baths of
lizaka, 2 ri 10 cho to the N. of
Fukushima, can be easily reached
by jinriMsha in 1 hr., or else by
electric tram from JSfagaoka, the
next station. The Kwasui-kwan
hm, which commands a fine view
of the mountains, is recommended,
lizaka boasts forty other inns ; but
to concur with the native guide-
book in its genial praise of all would
be too much. Fair fishing may be
had in the Surikami-gawa from
June to October.

Local tradition avers that the discoverer
of these springs is unknown, but that
Yamato-take bathed in one of them, and
the disease from which he suii'ered "dis-
appeared like snow in sunshine."

lizaka is at its best in spring
and autumn, the mosquitoes being

498

Route 65. — The Northern Railway.

troublesome during the hot season.

From Kaori, or Kori, the silver
mines of Ilan'Ja may be reached in
1 hr. Here the hills close in on
the 1., the line chmbing up their
lower slopes. The \iew r. of the
plain, and of the coast range that
separates it from the Pacific Ocean,
is very striMng. Although

Shiroishi itself is a dull place,
the traveller with a few hours to
spare could not do better than take
a jinrikisha to the hot springs
of Obara [Inn, Shikama), up the
wildly picturesque gorge of the
Shiroishi-gawa. One hr. further
on, or 5 ri altogether fi'om Shiro-
ishi, stand the Zaimoku-iica, or
Timber Eocks, so called from their
stratified formation. This road
continues for 14 7% more, via Yuno-
hara, to the provincial capital of
Yamagata (see Kte. 72).

Ogawara is the station for the
hot springs of Aone (Inns, Sato,
Tanno), a favourite resort of the
Sendai people, distant 7J ri by
jinrikisha.

[A good exciirsion fi'om Aone is
to the summit of Zoo-san,
Takayama, or Katta-yama, as
the volcano, now quiescent, is
variously called. Distance 3 ri,
half of which is a gentle ascent
through an oak forest. Shrines
stand on the two highest points.
A lake occupies what apparent-
ly was the crater. By going
round this lake, the descent to
Aone may be made by a path
different from the ascent.]

For several miles the line follows
the r. bank of the Shiroishi-gawa,
the old highway, ■with its stately
avenue of cryptomerias, marking
the 1. bank, xintil both are crossed
and the river finally lost sight of
near Tsukinoki.

Iwanuma is the junction where
the East Coast Railway (see p. 'I'll)
joins the Northern line. Hence we
proceed through level country to

Sendai (Mutsu Hotel, Europ.
style ; Sendai Hotel, Harikyu, and

many others). This town, capital
of the province of Kikuzen and of
the prefecture of Miyagi, is situated
on the 1. bank of the Hirose-gawa,
and was formerly the seat of Date
Mutsu-no-Kami, the gi'eatest of the
northern Daimyos. The castle, a
fine natTiral stronghold, lying on
the r. bank of the liver, was partial-
ly destroyed during the civil war of
1868. It is used as quarters for
the oflicers of the garrison, and
is not open to the public. The
grounds are now overgrown with
long gi-ass and weeds. Sendai is
noted for its maunfacture of orna-
mental articles, such as trays, etc.,
made of fossil wood (jiiuJai-sugi),
which is found in a hill near the
town ; also for a kind of cloth
called shifu-ori, made of sUk and
paper, and suitable for summer
use. The smaU Public Garden
commands a good view towards
the castle and the moimtain
ranges beyond. Formerly a num-
ber of vahiable old lacquer and
other relics belonging to the ex-
lord of Sendai, as well as the
presents given by the Pope to
the mission sent to Eome in 1014
by Date Masamune, were preserv-
ed in the town ; but they have
lately been dispersed to various
parts of the empire. Some of
these interesting reUcs are now
to be seen in the iluseum at ITeno
in Tokyo (p. 130). The Convict
Prison of Sendai is one of the lar-
gest in Japan. Outside Sendai, at
Aramaki on the N., are numerous
potteries for the manufacture of
coai*se pans and jars.

Though Sendai is ordinarily
treated as a mere place of rest
by the traveller en route to Matsu-
shima or Yezo, a few hours may
profitably be spent there in \'isit-
ing the temple of Zuihoden, where
lie the ashes of Date Masamune,
and returning via Atago-san. The
temple stands on Zuiho-san, a part
of the old castle grounds, and is
approached by an avenue of lofty
cedars. Just beyond the first torii

Sendai to Ichinoseki. Kozevji.

499

is a large stone tablet, erected to
the memory of over a hnndred Sen-
dai men who fell in the 8atsuma
Rebellion. The temple is then
reached by a flight of steps. The
sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum (a
crest on the onter gate retained by
special permission of the Emperor)
and the fine bronze cistern close by,
deserve inspection. The Ilaulen is
of black lacquer with coloured
cornices. The Kara-mon gate has
some good carvings of tigers and
dragons ; but they are inferior to
those on the Oku-no-in, where the
projecting rafters take the shape
of carvings of mythological mon-
sters. Within is the tomb, having
upon it a finely executed statue
of Date Masamune. On each side
of the Oku-no-in stand stone monu-
ments to the memory of twenty
faithful retainers who, when their
lord died, sacrificed their own lives
in order to follow him to the land of
shades. The place is suiTounded
by lofty cryptomerias, and resem-
bles, but on a much less magnificent
scale, the site of leyasu's tomb at
Nikko. The monument close by,
erected by Date Masamoto, records
the loss of a thousand men of Sendai
in the war of the Kestoration. Two
other temples of some local note
st^ind close to Zuihdden on the
opposite side of the road.

A path leads down 1. through
the valley, then up Atago-san, which
is a ridge facing the town and
<;ommanding an exceptionally beau-
tiful view of the surrounding coun-
try. The river winds round the
foot of the hill, the city spreads
out in front embedded in a mass of
foliage, the " seven hills " of Nana-
tsu-mori stand in u row behind,
while r. stretches a broken country
consisting of uplands dotted with
clumps of trees, and an open plain
beyond extending to the sea. The
summit of the sacred isle of Kin-
kwa-zan is also visible on clear
days. A path descends to the river,
which is crossed on a long bridge of
planks.

There are various other minor
places of interest in Sendai and
its immediate vicinity. In spring-
time the centre of attraciion to the
townsfolk is the cherry plantation
and aveniie of the temple of Shaka,
which then presents a gay scene.

Diverging considerably to the E.,
the railway line passes through a
fertile stretch of country, with little
to arrest the traveller's attention.

Matsushima (Inn, at station)
takes its name from the pine-clad
isles in the Bay of Sendai, 1 ri
distant. For a description of this
celebrated spot, see Eoute 70.
Between this station and the next,
we pass r. a large mere called
iShinai-numa. From

Kogota, omnibuses run to Wa-
kuya, li ri, and to Furukawa 2 ri,
places of some note on the Oshu
Kaido highway. The saddle-shaped
peak in the distance, far to the 1. of
the station of Ishikoshi, is one of
the many Japanese mountains call-
ed Koma-ga-take, or " Pony Peak."

Ichinoseki {Inn, Ishibashi-ya),
a town lying in a fine valley on the
banks of the Iwai-gawa, was for-
merly the seat of a Daimyo. Here
the railway strikes the valley of
the Kitakami-fjawa, which it fol-
lows up past Morioka.

This important river rises at the vill.
of Mido on the northern frontier of the
province of Rikuchu, and has a course
of about 175 m. due S. to Ko-Funakoshi,
where it divides into two branches, one
flowing S. into the Bay of Sendai at Ishi-
nomaki, the other into the Pacific Ocean.
It has numerous affluents, and affords
ready means of transport for the produce
of the large extent of country drained by
it. Trout are plentiful in it and the
other rivers of this i^art of -lapan.

[From Kozenji, about 'Ih m.
from Ichinosela by jinrilasha,
river steamers run every other
day to Tshinomaki and Shioga-
ma, stiu-ting at dayliglit, and
reaching Tshinomaki about
noon. After a short stoppage,
the steamer ascends the river
agiiin to enter the Nobiru CancU,

500

Route 65. — The Northern Railway.

and then passing through the
Matsushima archij^elago, reach-
es Shiogama about 4 p.m.
Delays, however, are frequent,
owing to the numerous stop-
pages on the way to take in
cargo. The river scenery is
pretty in parts, but the steam-
ers are small and uncomfort-
able. Fishing-stations, from
■which large square nets are
dropped into the river by levers,
are seen on the perpendicular
bluffs. The slate quanies, for
which Ishinomaki is noted, are
passed on the 1. before reach-
ing the town.]

Hira-iziimi. At a distance of
20 cho from this station stands
the far-famed monastery of Chu-
sonji, in which many interesting
relics of Yoshitsune and Benkei are
preserved. The buildings, now
simply retained as store-rooms, are
still in the care of Buddhist priests,
who will conduct visitors around.
A fee should be offered.

Chusonji was founded by Jikaku Daishi
in the 9th century, and attained its
greatest prosperity under the patron-
age of Fujiwara Kiyohira at the beginning
of the 12th century. The buildings once
numbered as many as forty, with dwel-
lings for three hundred priests.

Jiniikishas may be taken as far
as the approach to Chusonji, — an
avenue of grand cryptomerias. No
attempt should be made to go
further except on foot ; it M-as in-
cumbent in old days on the ilika-
do's envoy himself to alight here,
even if he were merely jmssing by
the sacred hill. The principal
buildings sho^Ti are the Jizo-do,
Konjiki-do, Issaikyo-d5, and Benzai-
ten-do. All are plain wooden struc-
tures, devoid of either colour or orna-
ment, except for some carvings and
flower-paintings on the Jizu-do,
the first building met ■«ith on the
1. of the avenue. It contains images
of Yoshitsune and Benkei, said to
be their own handiwork. In the
Ii>saikyo-(ld are three complete sets
of the sutras that foria the canon

of Buddhist scriptme. The most
interesting is the KonjiJci-do, once
covered with a coating of gold that
gave it the name of Iliko.ru-ild, or
Glittering HaJl, by which it is still
most commonly known ; but only
faint ti'aces of the gilding are now
discernible. In it repose the
ashes of three redoubtable members
of the Fujiwara family, — Kiyohira,
Bidehii-a, and ilotohira. The main
internal pillars are lacquered, and
inlaid with a kind of mother-of-
pearl work called shippo so'jou. On
each of these are also observable
traces of representations of twelve
Buddhist deities. Here as else-
where, however, time and neglect
have left then- mark. Among the
treasui-es carefully preserved, are
two pictures of Chusonji by
Kanaoka, the first great Japanese
painter ; also portraits of Yoshi-
tsune and Benkei, said to be by
themselves, like the figures men-
tioned above, — good, bold pieces
of coloming. The relics here in-
clude some fine images of the chief
deities worshipped by the Tendai
sect. Benkei's sword and other
possessions may be seen in the Ben-
zaiten-do. Altogether, the collec-
tion of objects of both artistic and
liistoric interest is rich and varied,
and weU merits inspection.

Instead of returning to Hira-
izumi, the traveller may resume his
journey northwards by train at

Maisawa, 1 ri 24 cho beyond
Chusonji. Just before reaching
this station, the Koromo-ijaica is
crossed, — a river celebrated as the
scene of the battle that ended the
hero Yoshitsune's career (see p. 88).
Notice, for many miles onward,
how the wide lice plain is dotted
with farmsteads, each protected by
its grove of pine-trees. Near

Mizusawa (Inn, Kamenasu) is
the site of the ancient military
headquarters (Ctdnjufu) of the
Governor-Genera] of Oshii, a name
which in early times included all
N.E. Japan. The "Wagakawa, an

Morioka. Ascent of Oanju-san.

501

important tributary of the Kita-
kami, is crossed just before reaching
Kurosawa-jiri [Inn, Nanibu
Hotel). Here a picturesque road to
Akita diverges 1. over the moun-
tains (see Route 73).

Hanamaki. The railway station
is about 1 m. from the town. About
9 m. fi'om Hanamaki, up the valley
of the Toyosawa, lie the hot springs
of Osawa ; 1 ri further are JVaniari
and Mshi Namari (Inn, Meiji-
kwan), also spas, the latter of
which affords the best accommoda-
tion. The water is strongly im-
pregnated with alum. JinriMshas
and basha are available all the way.
The most prominent mountains
seen on the E. are Rokka-uchi-
yama and Hayachine-yama, also
known as feochiho-san ; on the W.,
Nansho-zan and Ganju-san. After
passing Hizume, the line continues
along the r. bank of the Kitakami-
gawa, and crosses the river Shizuku-
ishi at its junction with the Kita-
kfimi, before entering

Morioka (Inns, Mutsu-kwan, at
station ; Takayo, in Muika-cho).
This, the capital of the prefecture of
Iwate and formerly the seat of the
Daimyo of Nambu, lies 1 m. distant
from its railway station, and is pret-
tily situated in a plain guarded by
Ganju-san and other lofty moun-
tains. Morioka is noted for its
kettles, spun-silk goods, vegetables,
and fruit, — American apples and
quinces being now extensively
grown. The kettles differ from
those of Osaka and Kyoto in being
a rusty red colour, and in the an-
neahng to which they are subject-
ed. The ore used in their manu-
facture comes fi'om near the east
coast, and has a high reputation.
Game is abundant in winter.

About 1 ri from the town, a grove of
cryptomerias is seen on a blufl' overhang-
ing the river. Here it was that the rebel
Abe-no-Sadato had his castle, which
after a stubborn resistance, was over-
thrown by Hachiman Taro (see p. 72).
Long afterwards — so the story goes — when
Nanibvi wshed to build a castle on the
same spot, the Shogun's government.

remembering the dilticulty formerly ex-
perienced in overcoming the rebel Abe,
refused to grant permission, so that the
fortress was erected on the hill which
afterwards became the centre of Morioka.

Among the hills to the E. of the
town stand a number of decaying
Buddhist temples, the best of which
is Hoonji, possessing well-preserved
gilt images of the Five Hundred
Itakan. The sepia drawing of a fly-
ing dragon on the roof by an artist
of the Kano school, displays much
merit. In another temple, called
Shojuji, is a unique pair of ancient
screens deisicting Europeans, some
of whom are unmistakably Francis-
can friars.

These screens were brought here at the
end of the 17th century by a daughter of
Gamo Ujisato. lord of Hida, who came as
bride to the lord of Nambu; but their
previous history is unknown. Till re-
cently they were exhibited only once a
year, and awakened the superstitious
horror of the country-folk, who believed
that human pore had been mixed with
the pigments in order to give them their
bright hue.

[Ganju-san, also called Iwate-
san ((3,800 ft.), is, from its
regular logarithmic curves, a
beautiful object to those travel-
ling ujj or down the Northern
line. It can be ascended from
Morioka by starting early in
jinrikisha with two men, and
going to the sulphur baths of
^Daishaku on the lower slopes
of the mountain, the water for
which is brought do'WTi in
pipes from Amihari, 2 m. high-
er up. The jinrikisha should
be left at the hamlet for the
return joiuney. Daishaku,
which Ues about 7 ri fiom
Morioka, can be reached in
time for lunch, and the after-
noon pleasantly employed in
a chmb to the source of the
hot springs at Amihari.

It is a hard day's chmb from
Daishaki\ to the top of Ganju-
san and back ; but the traveUer
has two nights' rest, and hot
sulphur baths to refresh his
weary Umbs. The ascent of

502

Route 65. — Tlie Northern Railway.

the mountain is easy for the
first few miles; but gradually
it begins to zigzag up, between
and over the roots of trees.
Sometimes it follows the ridge
of a spur, and then descends
to cross a valley, in one place
coming out on a solfatara,
where the hot water boils up
and mingles with a cold stream.
The structure of the mountain
may be compared to three
joints of a telescope, there
being a lower thick cone, then
a rim or crater, then a second
cone followed by a second rim
or crater, and finally a third
cone. On reaching the outside
of the first crater, a slight de-
tour brings one to a ridge sep-
arating two little lakes. From
this spot there is another steep
climb to the rim of the second
crater, on the floor of which
stands a hvit for pilgrims. The
last part of the ascent from
here is up a slope of fine lapilH,
inclined at an angle of 27°.
The top of the moimtain is
really the knife-like edge of
another crater, half-a-mile in
diameter, in whose centre rises
a small cone breached on
its S.E. side. Strewn along
the edge, lie numerous offer-
ings to the mountain god,
which have been brought up
by pilgrims, — principally pieces
of sheet-iron shaped hke spear-
heads, and varying in length
from 2 or 3 in. to 2 or 3 ft.
The interior of the cone may
be entered by climbing over
the breach.

On returning, it is better to
take the direct road towards
the vill. of Shizuku-uihi, cross-
ing the ridge of the outside
crater just behind the pilgrims'
hut, and descending a long
rocky spur. The return from
Daishaku can be varied by
crossing the river Shizuku-ishi
at the ferry, and going to the
pleasant hot springs of Tsunagi.

By following a short way fur-
ther up the valley, the baths of
Oshuku, or [hjuisu-no-yndo (the
" Nightingales* Abode ") are
reached. From this place the
road to Morioka, 13 m., leads
along the r. bank of the river
Shizukuiy.hi.

Those pressed for time cai*
ascend Ganj;i-san most expedi-
tiously from YarvKjizawa-mura,
about 4 rl from Morioka, start-
ing on horseback in the after-
noon. The accommodation at
the little inn is miserable ; but
by engaging guides and using
torches, the ascent can be be-
gun about midnight and the
top reached at daylight, — dis-
tance only 2 ri 23 chb. To
make up for the comparative
shortness of the way, the
climb is so steep in places
that chains are fastened in the
rocks to hold on by.]

Leaving Morioka, we enter on by
far the finest section of the whole
railway journey, — 5 hrs. of constant
picturesque change, reminding one
of some of the best parts of Scot-
land. The line first runs over a
moor at the base of Ganju-san, and
crosses the Kitakami-gawa, which
it has so long followed, shortly
before reaching

Eoma. Here Ganju-san appears
as a perfectly symmetrical cone,
while on the spectator's immeiliate
r. rises another lovely cone called
Himegami-dake. Behind this latter,
on the slopes of Sato-yama, is a
horse-breechng estabhshment for
the Imperial stables.

Apropos of this, it may be interesting to
note that mares are almost exclusively
used in Northern Japan, whereas in'
Tokyo and its neighbourhood only stal-
lions are to be seen.

A good road leads 1. from this
station to the mining district of
Kazuno, distant some 14 ri. The
line now runs between moderately
high pine-clad hills to Numakunai,
the last vill. in the valley of the
Eitakami, and over the Nakayama-

Fiom Nakayama to Nohyi.

503

toge into the valley of the Mabechi-
gawa.

Nakayaraa at the summit of
the pass, 1,500 ft. above the sea, is
the highest point reached on the
whole journey from Tokyo to Ao-
mori. In the immediate vicinity is
a large remount depot of the War
Department. Delightful is now
the run down the narrow valley of
the Mabechi-(jaioa, amongst hills
crowned with every variety of tim-
ber, the river flashing in and out as
the train crosses and recrosses it.
Lacquer-trees line the jiathways,
and dot the fields at the base of the
hills. But the views on this part
of the journey gain greatly from
being taken in the reverse tlirection.
Many long tunnels occur in tliis
section. After

Ichi-no-he

Ichi-no-he raeans the "first gate" or
" outpost," Saii-no-he the third, and so on,
the occurrence of these iK^culiar names in
North-Kastern Japan being referable to
their origin in successive posts of defence
against the Aino aborigines.

occurs the longest of these tunnels,
if m., on emerging fiom which we
are greeted by a magnificent view,
including r. tlae ridge of Sue-no-
matsu-yuma, celebrated in classical
poetry.

Every Japanese has the following
stanza by heart: —

Chigirikl 7i.a

Katami ni sode ivo
Shiboritsutsii

•Sue-no- mal.iu-yama

Nami kosaji to wa

which conveys a vow of mutual love to
last till the billows shall o'ertop this
mountain's crest, or in other words for
ev«r.

Fukuoka (Inn, Murai), the best
town between xVIorioka and Aomori,
lies in a valley ^ m. north of its
station.

San- no-he ( T/m, Wada) is 1 m.
south of its station. The conspicu-
ous peak on the immediate r. of the
line is Nagui-dake i2,(j(jO ft.), which
can be easily climbetl in 2 hrs., and
affords a romarltable view, including

Herai-dake and Hakoda-yama. A
road, described in Route 77, runs
from San- no-he to the secluded
waters of lovely Lake Towada. The
most picturesque portion of the
journey is now over. The railway,
on leaving San-no-he, abandons the
Oshu Kaido and makes a considera-
ble detour to the E.

[The Oshu Kaido passes through
several fair-sized towns, and
over rolling country appro-
priate to grazing purposes.
Samhomji, one of the chief
places on the way, deserves a
visit from those interested in
horse-breeding. It lies 4 ri
from Furumaki, a station fur-
ther on. From Sanabongi one
may proceed to Hhichi-no-he,
3 ri, whence to the chief Gov-
ernment stud on the slope of
llachiman-dake is a distance
of 2 ri more.]
Shiriuchi (Inn, Sagawa-ya)
stands in an extensive rice-plain
watered by the Mabechi-gawa,
which by this time has become a
wide and sluggish river, with low
hills in the distance on every hand.
A branch line leads hence to the
rising seaport of Ilachi-no-he, 5 m.
Travellers delayed here might find
the local holiday resort of Same
a livelier place to stay at. A short
distance beyond

ShinoLoda, we cross the Momo-
ishi-gawa, a stream running out of
Lake Towada and reputed to aflford
good salmon fishing ; thence over
moorland, where horses and cattle
are bred, to

Numasaki, situated on the bor-
ders of the Kofjaicara Lagoon, whose
two parts are known respectively
as Ane-numa and Imoto-numa, or
the Elder and Younger Sister.

Nolieji (Inn, Kasumi-ya) is a
port at the S.E. corner of Aomori
Bay, from which a coast road runs
due N. to the peninsula of Tonanii
(see lite. 78). The line now follows
the shore of Aomori Bay, partly
under snow-sheds, to Kominato, and
crosses the little peninsula which

504

Route QQ. — Wakamcdsu and Bandai-san.

divides the bay into two parts.
Here the prettily shai:)ed hills of
Tsugaru show up to the 1. like an
assemblage of miniature Fuji's.
Continuing past

Asamushi {Inn, Mikuni), noted
for its hot spiings and sea bathing,
and along the rocky and picturesque
shore, we at length reach Aomori,
which has two stations, viz.

Uramachi (Inns, Kagi-ya, in
Hamamachi, with branch at station;
Nakashima, some European dishes
obtainable), where travellers for
Hakodate alight, and where also
the best accommodation is to be
had, and

Aomori proper. This, the capital
of the prefecture of the same name,
stands at the head of Aomori Bay
and at the mouth of the small
river Arakawa, which drains an
extensive plain shut in by high
hills. Its straight, wide streets
give it an aspect unusual for Japan,
and the shops are large and well-
supplied. Quantities of salmon are
caught in the bay; and besides
dried salmon and sharks' lins,
furs from Yezo and cheap lacquer
are to be seen in abundance. The
lacquer is of a peculiar varie-
gated Mnd, called Kara-nuri, Tsu-
garu-nuri, or Baka-nuri. Pretty
basket-ware, made of a creeper
called akebi, is manufactured in
large quantities. Aomori is also
the chief outlet of the large migra-
tion of country-people, who an-
nually cross over to Yezo in the
spring for the fisheries on the
coast of that island, returning in
autumn to theii- homes on the
mainland.

There is steam communication,
twice daily, between Aomori and
Hakodate, the distance of 56 miles
taking about 6 hrs. The boats are
excellent, but only native fare is
provided.

ROUTE 6f3.

Wakamatsu and Bandai-san.

Wakamatsu is a good centre for
several cross-country trips, notably
for a visit to Bandai-san, a volcano
celebrated for its terrific eruption
in 1888. The traveller starting
from Tokyo has an 8 hrs. journey
by the Northern Kailway (see Ete.
65) to Koriyama, where he changes
to what is known as the Gan-Etsu
BaUiray, of which the following is
the schedule as far as opened.
Time, :U hrs., or llj hrs. in all.
The western portion, on from
"Wakamatsu to Niigata, will take
years to construct.

This line receives its name from the
two provinces which it is meant ulti-
mately to traverse, Gan being the Chinese
pronunciation of " Iwa," the first charac-
ter of Iwashiro, and Etsu being an
alternative pronunciation of "Echi," tlie
first character of Echigo.

Distance

fi-om

Names of Stations

Koriyama

KORIYAMA

5 m.

Hori-no-uchi

Akogashima

Atami

Nakayama

Yamagata

idh

Sekito

•20|

Kawagita

Inawashiro

25|

Okina-jima

Odera

361

Hirota

39i

WAKAMATSU

Running across the plain in a
north-westerly direction, the line
enters a very narrow valley at
Atami, where there are mineral
springs. Beyond Nakayama, ob-
serve r. the waterfall, part of which
is utilised to supply Koriyama with
the electric hght. After passing
through a long tunnel, the train
runs by the side of a canal con-

From Koriyama to Bandai-san.

505

strncted for purposes of irrigation,
whose waters form the waterfall
just mentioned.

Yaraag-ata {Inn, Kashima-ya)
lies on the eastern shore of Lake
Inaicashiro, a large sheet of water
measuring about 4 n in every
direction, and almost surrounded
by a siiccession of thickly wooded
hills, above which, on the N. shore,
rises the sharp summit of Bandai-
san.

This lake is not a tnie crater lake, as
has been supposed, but is probably a
depression formed by evisceration of
the ground, resulting from the copious
outpourings of volcanic matter in its
vicinity. Its principal feeder, the river
Nagase, the upper course of which was
entirely stopped by the debris swept down
during the eruption of 1888, again became
the main source of supply after the
formation of Lake Hibara by the eruption.
It is plentifully stocked with salmon-
trout and other fish.

Another tunnel, and the Bandai
group looms up grandly in front.
After crossing the Naruse-gawa, the
line sweeps rounds the base of the
mountain. Of the lake only
glimpses can be obtained at inter-
vals, as a fringe of trees mostly
shuts it out from view. The small
town of

Inawashiro {Inn, Hirano-ya),
though not situated quite so close to
the path up Bandai-san as the next
wayside station, Okina-jima, is to
be preferred, for the ease of getting
horses and guides. B;it owing to
the poorness of the accommodation,
most persons go on to Wakamatsu
to sleep in greater comfort, and
take the first train back in the
morning, guides etc., being arranged
for by telegraph. After passing
Okina-jima, the gradient becomes
steep, and between Odera and
Hirota, which latter station stands
at the bottom of the col, there is
an extensive cutting through ag-
glomerate,— the resiilt doubtless of
an ancient eiTiption, — some of the
blocks of andesite being of im-
mense size.

Wakamatsu {Inn, *Shimizu-

ya), formerly the castle-town of the
Daimyo of Aizu, is situated nearly
in the centre of a great oval plain
of from 10 to 12 ri in its longest
diameter, constituting what is pro-
perly called the Aizii district. The
plain is fertile, cultivated with rice,
and watered by many streams
which combine to form Lake
Inawashiro.

The Aizu clan specially distinguished
itself fighting on the Shogun's side during
the civil war of 1868, — indeed, their ene-
mies termed them "the root of the rebel-
lion." Though their cause was a losing
one, their gallantry is none the less re-
membered. Even lads of fourteen and
fifteen years followed their fathers into
the field. On the hill called limori-san,
about 1 ri to the E. of the town, lie the
graves of the Byal:ko-lai, or "White Tiger
Band," — eighteen young men who com-
mitted harakiri when, a fire breaking out
in the vicinity of the castle, they thought
the castle itself had been captured.

The Daimyo's castle — the last to
stand oiit for the vanquished Sho-
gun — occupied low ground on the
southern outskirts of the town ; but
the buildings have been destroyed.
The massive stone walls, some
fine old trees, and ruins of moats
still sufficiently attest the former
grandeur of the place.

A pleasant walk or jinrikisha
ride can be taken to Higashi-yama
{Inn, Shin-taki), a village of tea-
houses 30 cJi.d to the S. E. of the
town, situated in a deep ravine
through which flows a stream of
considerable volume, and much
frequented on account of its hot
springs. The waters, which gush
out of the rocks on the r. bank of
the stream, have neither taste nor
smell. Their temperature varies
from 122° to 13P F.

Bandai-san is the collective
name of a group of peaks consist-
ing of O-Bandai, Ko-Bandai (de-
stroyed), Kushi-ga-mine, and
Akahani-yama, surrounding an
elevated plain called Numa-no-
taira. This gi'oup. standing on
the N. side of Lake Inawashiro,
forms a conspicuous object in

506

Route 66. — WaJcamalsu and Bandai-san.

the landscape. O-Bandai, or Great
Bandai, is the most prominent of
the peiiks. Numa-no-taira is sux>-
posed to be the remains of the
original crater, tmd the peaks
mentioned are probably parts of
the wall that encircled it. Within
it were sever.d small lakes or pools,
as its name impUes. It was also
covered with dense forests, which
were destroyed in the last erup-
tion.

" On the rooming of -July 15th, 1888, the
weather iu the Bandai district was fine,
there beinj^ scaicely a cloud ; and a gentle
breeze was bli wing from the W.N.W.
Soon after 7 o'clock, curious rumbling
noises were heard, which the peoijle
thought to be the sound of distant
thuuder. At about half-past 7, there
occurred a tolerably severe earthquake,
which la.*ted more than 20 seconds. This
was followed suou after by a most violent
shaking of the ground. At 7.45, while the
ground was still heaving, the emption
of Ko-Bandai-sau took place. A dense
column of steaui and dust shot into the
air. making a tremendous noise. Explo-
sions followed one after another, in all to
the niiuiber of 15 or 20, the steam on each
occasion txoept the la.-;t being described
as having attained a height above the
peaks about equivalent to that of O-Ban-
dai as seen t'rini Inawashiro, that is to
say, some 1.2S(J metres, or 4,200 ft. The
last explosion, however, is said to have
projected Its discharge almost horizon-
tally towards the valley on the N. The
main eruptions lasted for a minute or
more, and were accompanied by thunder-
ing souU'ls which, though rapidly lessen-
ing in intensity, continued for nearly two
hours. Jleuiiwhile the dust and steam
rapidly ascended, and spread into a great
cloud like an open umbrella in shape, at
a height equ^U to at least three or four
times that of O-Bandai. At the immediate
foot of the mountain there was a rain of
hot acaliling ashes, accompanied by
pitchy darkness. A little later, the dark-
ness was stil! g'eat, and a smart shower
of i-ain fell, lasting for about five minutes.
The rain was quite warm. While dark-
ness as aioieaaid still shrouded the
region, a mighty avalanche of earth and
rock nished at terrific speed down the
mountain slopes, buried the Nagase valley
with its villages and people, and devasta-
ted an ana of more than 70 square
kilometres, or 27 square miles." — (Ab-
ridged from an account published by
Vroftssors Hek-ijia and Kikuciii.)

The total number of lives lost in this
great oat:>clysni was 461. Four hamlets
were completely buried together with their
inhabitants and cattle, and seven villages

were partially destroyed. Whole forests
were levelled by the shock, and rivers
were blocked up by the ejected mud and
rock-s.

In order to visit the site of the
great explosion, the traveller takes
either jinriMsha for about 1 ri along
the old highway, or horse (which can
also go a considerable way up the
mountain). A path then turns
sharp r. over the grassy moor skirt-
ing O-Bandai, which it climbs for
a long distance. "When the higher
and thickly wooded part of the
mountain is reached, the ascent be-
comes much steeper. A walk of
about 3J hrs. should bring one
to the crest of a spur on the W. side
of the mountain, where the scene
of destruction bursts upon the eye
with bewildering suddenness. A
hut, — the Yamanaka Onsen hut,
half of which was overwhelmed by
the eruption, the inmates of the
eastern room being killed, and
those in the kitchen to the west
being untouched, — stands just
under the ridge on the further side.
Leaving the hut on the 1., and
follov.-ing round the side of the
spur, we reach a hollow from which
steam still issues. A stifE scramble
up the face of this spur leads to the
brink of the main abyss. The
spectacle which meets one is still
weird and impressive, in spite of
the great changes that have since
taken place in the devastated area,
through the efEects of erosion upon
the rugged masses of rock and
mud left by the catastrophe. From
the Yamanaka hut, it is possible to
make the circuit of the Bandai
group. A track passes over the sea
of mud and rocks in the diiect line
of eruption, till the bill shutting
out the valley of the Nagase-gawa
is encountered. Crossing this and
the site of the annihilated hamlet
of Kawakami, we next come, 3 m.
further down the valley, to the
hamlet of Nagasakn, whose in-
habitants, in endeavouring to
escape to the hills opposite, were
overwhelmed by the stream of

Soute 67. — From WakamatRu to Nikko.

SOT

mud. At the vill. of Mine, less
than % in. from Inawashiro, a deflect-
ed portion of this stream was
arrested, and may be seen piled np
several feet thick. The dammed-
np waters of the Nagase-gawa
formed a large lake (Lake Hibara), S
m. long and from 1 m. to 2 m. broad.
— The circuit of the mountain, as
here described, occupies a full day.

Instead of taldng this arduous
walk, one may descend at once via.
Ottate Onsen (about 2 ri) and Goshn-
rnmha (20 chd), whence 20 cho more,
practicable for jinrikishas (if sent
on from Inawashiro), to Okina-jima
station.

The ascent to the summit of
Eandai-san (5,830 ft. above sea-
level) involves some stiff cUmbing,
especially on the upper part, which
has a gradient of 35°. It is a
sharp peak terminating on one side
in a sheer precipitous descent, and
affording an extensive view which
inchides the range of mountains on
the borders of Hida and Etchu.

EOUTE 67.

FUOM WaKAMATSU to NeKKO 15Y

THE Valley of the Kinugawa.

(Conf. maps facing pp. 97 and 197.)

This route, lying amongst some
of the finest river scenery in
Eastern Japan, is recommended to
those who wish to diverge from
the beaten tracks. The autiimn
foliage from mid-October to mid-
November is especially beautiful.
The trip will occupy from 2i to 3
days. Jinrikishas can be taken as
far as the Sunno-ya Inn, V^ ri beyond
Itozawa at the foot of the Sanno-
toge ; they are not impracticable
over the pass, but it is preferable
to go on horseback or on foot.

Itinerary.

WAKAMATSU to :— Ri Cho M.

Kami Miyori 2 35 1\

Top of Funako-toge. 1 20 3|

Onumazaki 1 21 3|

Yagoshima 2 11 5|

Tajima 3 Ifi 8^

Itozawa 2 21 6|

Naka Miyori 5 20 13|

Ikari 2 5 b\

Takahara 1 26 4^

Fujiwara 2 3 5

dhara 1 13 3J-

IMMCHI 3 16 S\

Total 30 27 75

kiier traversing a southern ex-
tension of the plain, the Fnnako-
tor/e is encountered, for which two
men are indispensable to each
jinrildsha. On the other side, the
road skirts the Tsuruma-gawa,
which at intervals cuts its way
through the tertiary rock. The
portion most celebrated locally is
known as Tonohefsuri, near the vill.
of Yagoshima, where many smaU
shrines in the rock adorn the bank
of the river.

Tajima (Inn, Wakamatsu-ya) is
prettily situated in a plain protect-
ed by hills on aU sides. The chief
productions of the neighbourhood
are hemp and ginseng. The Sanno-
toge is of inconsiderable height.
The descent on the Shimotsidie side
leads into the valley of the Kinu-
gaica,

Kinu is a corruption of Kenu, lit " hairy
moor," an ancient name of the tract of
country now subdivided into the prov-
inces of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke.

along which, between the villages
of Ikari and Fujitcara. Ues the
prettiest part of the roiite, — de-
lightful river scenery as far as
Takahara. The road descends a
ravine, and in many parts over-
hangs the river, resting on logs
which project from the rock and
are supported by uprights. The
hot springs of Kaicaji near Taka-

508 Route 68 S 69. — Niigata to Wakamatsu. Hibara.

hara scarcely deserve a visit. After
Fujiwara the country becomes more
open. The Kinugawa is crossed at
the Naka-iwa described on p. 208,
and the road hence leads over high
cultivated \ipland to Imaichi, a
station on the Utsimomiya-Niliko
Bailway, for which see p. 197.

EOUTE 68.

Fkom Nhgata to Wakamatstj.

Itinerary.

NIIGATA to Niitsu, by rail in J hr.

NUTSUto:— Bi Cho M.

Yasuda 3 10 8

Komatsu 1 26 4:\

Iwaya 2 18 6

Shirosald 1 — 2J

TSUGAWA 2 18 6"

Torii 3 6 7|

Nozawa 4 10 lOJ

Bange ... 4 34 12

WAKAMATSU 3 7 7f

Total 20 21 04^

Time, 2 days in jinrikisha with 2
coolies, sleeping the first night at
Tsugawa ; on foot in 3 days, when
a short cut over the Suwa-toge, be-
tween Komatsu and Tsugawa,
should be availed of. The only
good inn on the way is the Tsuruga-
ya at Tsugawa ; elsewhere the ac-
commodation is rather poor. Those
doing this route in the inverse
direction often take boat down the
Agano-gawa at Tsugawa. Niigata
can thus be reached in one day
from that place ; but if the current
is slack, a halt must be made some-
where for the night. For about 12
m. the river, hemmed in by lofty
cliffs, studded with rocks \isible
and sitnken, making several abrupt

turns, and shallowing in many
places, hurries the boat swiftly
along. The rapids, however, are on
a small scale and anything but
formidable.

The short train journey from
Niigata to yutsu, which is noted for
its kerosene wells, is perfectly flat,
and so it continues most of the way
to Komatsu.

A day's excursion from Tsurjawa
may be made to the copper minefi of
Kusakura, the third biggest in
Japan. This central part of the
route, say from Iwaya over the
Kvrv.ma-tdge, and on to Nozaica,
will be found the stiffest, but the
most picturesque, with excellent
views of the abrupt precipices of
lide-san and Myojin-take on the
S.W. Lea\ing Nozawa and passing
through Bange, the road enters the
ciiltivated plain in which hes

Wakamatsu (see p. 505).

ROUTE 69.

From Ixawashiro to Yonezawa

\iA Bandai-san and the

Hibara-toge.

Itinerary.

INAWASHIROto:— Ei CTio M.
Yamanaka Onsen

hut .. 3 — 7i

Nagamine 3 — 7 J

Hibara 2 6 5|

Top of pass 2 — 5

Tsunagi 1 20 3^

YONEZAWA 4 _ 9|

Total 15 2G 38J

This trip occupies 2 days.

Jinrildshas can only be taken for
a ri or two at either end. From
Inawashiro to Hibara, luggage must
be sent round \'ia Shiokawa and

lislliL.

ff . '

ERT

)-OUT

Roule 70. — 3fatsushima and Kinkwa-zan.

509

Oshio, — to Shiokawa 6 ri by jinriM-
sha or packhorse, from Shiokawa to
Hibara 5J ri by packhorse only, in
all 11^ ri.

For the ascent of Bandai-san,
see page 506. From the Yama-
naka Onsen hut, it is possible to
proceed north over the site of the
cataclysm to Hibara, which lies at
the further end of the newly form-
ed lake. The way leads down for
nearly 2 ri to the shore of the lake,
then ascends 1. a hill on the top of
which the devastated district is
suddenly abandoned for a gi'and
forest, then down and along the
lake, with the skeletons of the trees
still sticking up out of the water,
to Nagamine, 1 ri more. Here a
boat can at times be got to Hibara;
otherwise 1 ri by the shore, and 1 ri
6 cho over the Kurobe-ioge to

Hibara (Inn, Matsuiiioto), a viU.
left half-in half-out of the water
by the formation of the new lake.
On the far side, 15 cJiO on the way
up the Hibara-toge, are some Silver
Refining Works, from which it is
1 ri to a tea-house, and 20 cho more
to the top of the pass through a
superb forest.

Tsunag-i (Inn, Aizu-ya) is a
moiintain village. From here the
way leads over two low passes, from
the first of which there is a fine
view of Asahi-dake and Gwassan.

Yonezawa (see Route 72).

KOUTE 70.

Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.

the matsushima archipelago,
nobiru. ishinomaki.

By train fi-om Sendai on the
Northern RaUway to Shiogama in i
hr. by branch line.

The archipelago of pine-clad islets
collectively bearing the name of Matsu-

shima has been famed for its beauty ever
since Northern Japan was conquered
from the Aino aborigines in the 8th cen-
tury, and ranks as one of the •San-kei. or
" Three most Beautiful Scenes " of the
empire, the other two being Miyaiima
and Ama-no-Hashidate. A lengthened
form of the name, Shiogama-no-Matsu-
shinia, i.e., "the Pine Islands of Shio-
gama," is soraetimes made use of, Shio-
gama being the town on the coast where
the curious landscape begins.

The best way to see the islands is
to row or sail across to the hamlet
which has borrowed the name of
Matsiishima (under 2 hrs. with a
fair breeze). Instead of taking the
boat back again, it is generally
advisable to engage jinrikishas to
Matsushima station, 1 rl, whence
train to Sendai in f hr. The ex-
pechtion may equally well be made
in the reverse way.

If it is desired to include Ishi-
nomaki and Kinkwa-zan in the
trip, the whole shoiUd be done by
steamer, whose deck affords an
excellent view of the islands.
These steamers ply daily betM^een
Shiogama and Ishinomald, starting
after the arrival of the first train
from Sendai. The passage to Ishino-
maki occupies about 3 hrs., or rather
less when weather permits of the
small river steamers going outside
the bar at Nobiru, instead of taking
the lengthier canal route (see p. 511).
The larger boats, wliich connect
with the Nippon Yusen Kwidsha's
steamers at Oginohama on their
voyages to and from Yokohama and
Hakodate, also pass through the
little archipelago, and take from 2
to 3 hrs. to cover the distance be-
tween Shiogama and Oginohama.

Shiogama (Inns, Ota-ya, Ebi-
ya, near station and pier). The
temple, which once belonged to th&
Shingon sect of Buddhists, has
been transferred to the worship
of the Shinto god Shiogama Dai-
myojin, a son of the creator Izanagi,
and tlie reputed discoverer of the
manufacture of salt by evaporation
from sea-water, the A,Vord Shio-ga-
ma meaning Salt-Cauldron. In the
temple court wiU be noticed a

510

Route 70. — Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.

sun-dial inscribed with Eoman
figures.

It bears date 178:i, and was presented
by Rin Shihei, a writer noted for hie
zealous advocacy of the defence of the
country against foreign aggression, which
he prophetically foresaw.

There is likewise a handsome
though weather-beaten iron lan-
tern, presented in A.D. 1187. But
in the temple's present state, the
niagniticent cryptomerias and other
trees, in the midst of whose deep
shade it stands, form the chief
attraction of the place. — Shiogama
is noted for its ink-stones.

On the sea-shore 2 ri S. of Shio-
gama, is situated the watering-place
of Shobuta (Inn. Daido-kwan), with
fine view.

.\boiit 1^ ri from Shiogama by jinriki-
sha, stands a stone monument called
Tsubo-nti-Jshi, to commemorate the former
presence of a castle named Taga Jo, built
In A.D. 624. At that time the Ainos stUl
occupied the country to the north: and an
inscription states that the frontier lay
only 120 ri (probably of 6 cho each, that
is 49 miles) distant. Old pottery is dug
up in the vicinity .

From Shiogama to the hamlet of
Matsushima {/?i?xs, Matsu-
shima Hotel. Kwangetsu-ro), is a
dehghtful sail amidst the promon-
tories, bays, and islets, which
stretch along the coast for 18 ri
as far as Kinkwa-zan, the most
■celebrated of the group.

There are said to be 88 islands between
Shiogama and JIatsushima, and 808 in all
between Shiogama and Kinkwa-zan, of
which very few are inhabited. But eight
and its compounds are favourite round
numbers with the Japanese, and more-
over the smallest rocks are included in
the enumeration. The average height of
the islands is from 60 ft. to 80 ft., the
highest 300 ft. All are formed of volcanic
tufa, into which the sea makes rapid
inroads, hollowing out tunnels and
archways in numerous places. Doubtless
many of the smaller isles disappear by
this process of erosion, while their num-
ber is maintained by the gradual breaking
up of small promontories.

Each island, down to the least,
has received a separate name, many
of them fantastic, as "Buddha's

Entry into Nirvana," "Question and
Answer Island," " the Twelve Im-
perial Consorts," and so on ; and no
less fantastic than the names are
the shapes of the islands them-
selves. In almost every available
nook stands one of those thousand
pine-trees that have given name and
fame to the locality. The quaintest
and most " Japanesey "' spot of all
is the islet of Oshima, which is
connected with the shore by tiny
bridges. At the hamlet of Matsu-
shima, the temple of Zuiganji, con-
taining the ancestral tablets of
the Date family, well repays a
visit, though its exterior is not pre-
possessing. On the way thither
some large excavations ( Yezo-ana) in
the sandstone rock are passed.
Their precise origin is unknown,
but it wotdd seem most reasonable
to regard them as old quarries. In
the outer court of the temple,
in front of a small cave called
Hoshia ga Iicnya, stand two large
figures of Kwannon cut in slate-
stone. There is also a well-carved
wooden figure of Date Masamune
(see p. 71) in a shrine behind the
high altar. The various apart-
ments of the temple are handsomely
decorated ; and when the gold foil
so lavishly strewn about was fresh,
the effect must have been very
fine. — Specimens of non-hollow
bamboo are brought for sale to the
vill. of Matsushima, but being rare,
are somewhat expensive. They
are used for making seals. Two ri
distant Ues

Tomiyama, a hill from which
the best general view of the archi-
pelago is obtained, and where
any traveller who, during the boat
journey from Shiogama, may have
been disappointed with his trip, will
allow that the locality possesses
great beauty, even should he think
that this has been somewhat ex-
aggerated by Japanese popular con-
vention. The whole distance may
be accomplished in jinrikisha, ex-
cepting the last 3 cho leading up to
the temple of TaUcdji, which stands

Tomiyama. Nobiru & Ishinomaki. Kinlcu;a-zan. 511

near the top of the ascent and
is said to have been founded by
the celebrated Tamura Maro (see p.
85). From this spot the eye wanders
over a maze of islets and promon-
tories, land and sea being mixed in
inextricable but lovely confusion.
In the direction of Shiogama, the
double peak of Shiraishi-no-take
may be descried in the blue dis-
tance, while to the r. rises the range
dividing the province of Eikuzen
from those of Uzen and Ugo. The
highest hill to the 1. is on the island
of Funairi-shima, above the port of
Lshibama, a place of call for mer-
chant steamers. Tomiyama, being
but a short distance off the main-
road to Ishinomaki, may be taken
on the way thither either by jinriki-
sha or hasha, — altogether about
9 ri from Matsushima. Another
panorama of the islands, by some
considered even superior to that
from Tomiyama, can be gained
from the top of Ogidani, a hill about
1^ m. from the \all. of Matsushima.
It is best taken on the way going to
or coming from Shiogama, the
climb up from the shore being only
3 cho.

Some curious methods of fishing
are employed in the bay. One is
a sort of labyrinth of finely split
bamboos, which the fish enter but
cannot escape from. Another
device is the suspension of bundles
of seaweed by ropes tied to bam-
boo sticks, which eels and other
fish seek shelter in and are thus
eiisily caught.

In going by steamer from Shio-
gama, the islets are left behind
after an hotir's sail, and the canal
which connects the shallow waters
of the bay with Nobiru is entered.

Nobiru (poor accommodation).
The so-caUeid port of this place
is little more than a creek with 5
or 6 ft. draught of water, and has a
bar across its mouth.

Some years ago, the course of the river
was altered by making a cutting to a
point about 2 m. inland, where there is a

wide bend. It was expected that the flow
of the river in its new bed would suffice
to keep the channel clear, that the old
bed of the Narusegawa would be avail-
able to take off any superfluous amount
of water in times of flood, and that the
bar could be kept down by dredging.
But all attempts to effect this have been
unsuccessful.

A Canal, 10 m. in length, con-
nects Nobiru with the Kitakami-
gawa, 2 m. above Ishinomaki.

Ishinomaki (Inns, Asano-ya,
Hoshi-ya), noted for its slate-quar-
ries and salmon fisheries, stands at
the mouth of the river Kitakami,
the natural outlet for the trade of
the district of Nambu to the north.
It is a bustling little seaport,
carrying on some ship-building in
foreign style. Hydri-yama, a hill at
the entrance of the harbour, com-
mands a tine view.

Steamers ascend the river every
other day to Kozenji (see p. 499);
but the journey down the river is
recommended instead, as the boats
run through to Shiogama in 1 day,
generally in from 9 to 10 hrs.

2.— KiNKWA-ZAN.

The most direct means of reach-
ing this sacred island is by steamer
from Shiogama to ^Vikawa. The
steamers start every other
day, taking 6 hrs. to make the
passage, and leaving Kinkwa-zan
the following day. The hamlet of
Aikaica is situated on a small bay
to the W. of the channel separating
Kinkwa-zan trotn the mainland.
Fiom Aikixwa to the ferry called
Yamadori, is a walk of a little
more than 1 m. over a liill, the
tojj of which afliords an entrancing
view of Kinkwa-zan and the
entire Matsushima archipelago. A
short descent leads thence to the
ferry-house, where the sonorous
notes of a fine bronze bell annoimce
to the boatmen on the opposite
shore that passengers are waiting
to be conveyed across. Boats can-
not be kept on this part of the
mainland, owing to its exposure to

512

Route 70. — Blatsushima and Kinkica-zan.

the great seas that roll in from
the Pacific, whereas the W. side
of Kinkwa-zan facing it is compa-
ratively sheltered. Delays in cross-
ing are frequent ; but the boats
are spacious and well-manned,
and qiiickly make the 2 m. passage,
landing the visitor at a small break-
water on

Kinkwa-zan, a short distance
below the temple buildings. The
tame deer with which the island
abounds form striking objects
as they stand on projecting ledges
of rock, or graze quietly by the side
of the road that leads up through
a wood consisting of jiine, beech,
and chestnut-trees. The only
buildings on the island are those
attached to the temples at which
every one must put up. A contri-
bution of from 2 yen to 3 yen will
generally ensure the use of the
best room for the night. Excellent
vegetarian fare is provided. A
request for a guide to conduct the
visitor round the island -will also be
complied with.

Kinkwa-zan is one of the most renown-
ed spots in the north, and has been, in
spite of its comparative inaccessibility,
the resort of pilgrims from all parts of
Japan for centuries past. Such was its
sanctity in old days, and such the in-
ferior position assigned to the female sex,
that no members of the latter were
allowed to gaze on the island, much less
set foot on its soil. Even now women
may not take the walk over the top. Some
other old customs still linger. For in-
stance, every pilgrim is conveyed gratis
to and from the island, and receives food
and shelter from the priests until his
devotions are over. What contribution
he may choose to make, rests entirely
with himself.— A quaint superstition pre-
vails regarding the deer on Kinkwa-zan.
Sick deer are said to be seen roaming
about, their mouths tied up with shimc-
nawa (the straw rope suspended before
Shinto shi-ines), and refusing all food
until they recover, when the bandage
drops off. When questioned on the
subject by the compilers, the priests
ascribed the phenomenon to suxjernatural
agency ; but being apparently tinged
with the modern sjiirit of enquiry, added
that they had referred the matter to the
professors of the Imperial University of
Tokyo for further elucidation !

The origin of the name Kinkiva-zan
("Golden-tlower Mountain") is obscure.

Tradition asserts that gold was fouud on
the island, then known as Michinoku-
yama : and the following lines in the
Manyoshu, an anthology of the 8th cen-
tury, are supposed to refer to (he dis-
covery :

Sumerogi no

Mi yo saJcaen to
Azuma nam

Michinoku-yama ni

Kogane liana sah-u

which means, " To add lustre to the sov-
ereign's august reign golden flowers
bloom in the mountains of Michinoku in
the East." It is more probable, however,
that it derived its name from the glitter
of the quantity of mica found in the soil.

Almost everything required by
the temple inmates is produced on
the spot. Their sake is specially
noted for the soothing peculiarity
that no headache follows even un-
limited potations, and every pil-
grim may therefore drink to his
heart's content. The chief festi-
vals take i)lace in February, March,
August, and September.

Kinkwa-zan sadly exemplities the rapid
disappearance of .Japanese religious
architecture and art. Until the seventies,
the shrine was Buddhist and possessed
splendid edifices. These havmg been
turned over to the official Shinto cult
after the disestablishment of Buddhism,
were partially pulled down, and the rest
stripped of their ornaments. Two fires,
the last of which in 1897, completed the
work of destruction. The Shinto build-
ings set up since then are but a shadow
of former ample magnificence.

The walk to the summit of KLu-
kwa-zan, 1,480 ft., takes about ^ hr.
from the temple, being biit some 16
cho. The path leads behind the
main buildings, mostly through
broken boulders and over the
interlaced roots of beech-trees. The
objects pointed out on the way are
detached pieces of rock with
fanciful designations. One of
these rocks, to judge from the
immense caii-n raised upon it, seems
to have attracted the special atten-
tion of pilgrims, and here it is that
K5b6 Daishi is said to have sat in
meditation when he \Tlsited this
spot. The glorious view from the
summit repays the traveller for any
difficulty he may have had in

Routes 71 & 72. — Ways to Yamagata.

513

reaching Kinkwa-zan. Nothing
obstructs the ^'ista of the laroad
and blue Pacific ; for the mountain,
although densely wooded on all
sides, slopes gi'adually down to the
sea. On the W. side, the whole
Matsushima archipelago is embrac-
ed,— even the outermost isles to
the N., fringed with a thousand
pines and encii-cled by white break-
ers. Takahashi-yama, a higher
peak to the N. W. on the mainland,
shuts out the prospect in that
direction only.

The small shrine on the top of
Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Wata-
tsumi-no-Mikoto, the Shintd God of
the Sea. Close by is the site of the
lighthouse, which stood there until
the erection of the present fine
granite structui'e on the E. side of
the island. A path from the sum-
mit descends to the lighthouse, and
joins what is called the Pilgrimfs'
Circuit, a road round the island
to which a whole day should, if
possible, be devoted, as it affords
glimpses of wild coast scenery un-
surpassed on the N.E. coast, noted
though this be for its picturesfjue
beauty. This circuit is estimated
at from 5 to 6 ri.

ROUTE 71.

Fkom Sendai to Yamagata.
Itinerary.

SENDAI to :— Pd ('ho M.

Ayashi 2 34 7^

Sakunami 1 21 11^-

SeMyama 5 U lU

Tendo 3 og g"

YAMAGATA 3 8 7|

Total 20 15 49f

_ This route is 1^- day's journey by
jinrikisha through scenery which,
except the last two easy stages
into Yamagata over the flat, is very
fine. The first striking object on
the way is a cascade, 40 ft. high,
formed by the waters of the Hirose-
<jnv:a, which river the route follows
up to its soTu-ce.

Sakunami {Inn, Motoyu-ya),
situated in a deep gorge, possesses
excellent hot baths, and is a pleas-
ant place to stay at. Between here
and Sekiyama, there is a fine rocky-
pass (2,650 ft.), with a tunnel near
the summit just at the boundary
of the provinces of Pdkuzen and
Uzen. The main road fi'om Akita to
Yamagata is joined at the town of
Tendo, for which, as also for
Yamag-ata, see next route.

ROUTE 72.

Fkom Fukushima to Yonezawa,
Y''amagata, and Akita.

Distance

ffom

Names of Stations

Fukushima

Miles

FUKUSHIMA

Niwasaka

Itaya

14*

Toge

•21

Sekine

24]

YONEZAWA

Nukanome

35J

Akayu

This line, open only as far as Akayu
in 1900, is being rapidly pushed forward
to the prefectuial town of Yamagata. The
railway route will practically follow the
itinerary given below, and when com-
pleted, connect at Akita with the govern-
ment line now in coiuse of construction
between that city and Aomori. The
Fukushima- Yonezawa section, owing to
engineering difficulties and the enormous
amount of tunnelling, cost 5,000,000 yen
or about 200,000 yen per mile.

Boule 72. — From Fukushima to Akita.

Itinerary.

AKAYUto:— Bi Oho M.

Nakayama '2 24 GJ

Kamino-yama 1 33 4|

YAMAGATA 3 18 8^

Tendo 3 8 7^

Tateoka 3 22 8J

Obana-zawa 3 20 8^

Punagata 3 19 8^

Shinjo 2 12 5^

Kanayama 3 32 9 J

Nozoki 4 11 10^

Innai 3 — 7J

Yuzawa 4 9 lOJ

Yokote 4 30 llf

Kakuma-gawa 3 18 S^

Omagari 1 25 4^

Hanatate 22 IJ

Jinguji 1 2 2J

Kita Manioka 27 If

Kariwano 1 25 4J

Yodogawa 2 11 5f

Wada 3 12 8J

AKITA 4 — 9J

Total 63 20 155J

Leaving Fukushima, the railway
turns off to the N.W. to cross the
central range of uaountains by the
Itaya-toge, which lies about 2,500
ft. above the sea. There is a de-
lightful panoramic Aiew of the
plain backed by the mountains of
Iwaki as the hne begins to ascend,
and before entering the series of
tunnels — 14 in number on this side
of Itaya— on the boundary separat-
ing the provinces of Im ashiro and
TJzen. For some mUes the perma-
nent way has been cut out of the
sheer cliff, which rises perpendicu-
larly on either side of the gorge to
a considerable height, before com-
mencing to slope upwards to the
mountain tops. Two tunnels — the
second a little over 1 m. in length —
pierce through the summit of the
pass to Toge; on the downward
gi-adient to Sekme, there are three
more. The bare and somewhat
wild aspect of the scenery on the
Fukushima side gives place to com-

parative luxuriance of vegetation
and cultivation on the other.

Yonezawa (Inn, Akane-ya) lies
20 rho from its station, with which
it is connected by tramway. For-
merly the castle-town of the great
Uesugi family, it stands near the
S.E. extremity of a rich and fertile
plain, surrounded by lofty moun-
tains and watered by the Matsu-
kawa and several tributary streams
that form the upper waters of the
Mogami-gawa. The town itself,
though large, has not a striking
appearance, and contrasts un-
favourably with its own suburbs,
whose detached houses are sur-
rounded by pretty gardens. The
houses are thatched, and the streets
mostly narrow, rough, and neglect-
ed. The castle has been razed to the
ground ; but the temple dedicated
to Uesugi Kenshin (see p. 85) stiU
remains, and an annual festival is
celebrated there on the 13th day of
the 3rd moon, old style.

Unlike their class in other ijarts of
Japan, the old samurai here form the
■wealthiest portion of the population,
retaining in their hands the bulk of the
silk trade carried on in the neighbour-
hood. Thi.s state of affairs is said to have
arisen from the fact that when Uesugi
was deprived, as a punishment, of a large
part of his fief by the government of the
day, his retainers had to eke out a
livelihood by their own industry, and
the habits thus inculcated stood them
in good stead when the revolution of 1868
swept over the land, and deprived them
of their privileges.

Akayu {Inn, Akayu Hotel) is
noted for its hot STilphur springs.
The public bathing-sheds stand
close to the inn, but the latter has
a private bath for first-class guests.
The hUl immediately behind the
town, crowned by a new temple to
Hachiman, commands a panoramic
view. On leaving Akayu, the road
at once enters low hills, which
continue on to

Kamino-yama (Inn, Yone-ya).
This town also boasts hot mineral
baths, which, on account of their
efficacy in rheumatism, attract
visitors from considerable dis-

Kamhio-yama to Innai.

515

tances. Most, of the inns are on
the slope of the bill. Soon after
leaving Kamino-yama, we enter the
plain in which stands

Yamagata {Inns, Goto, Echigo-
ya). This place, capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name, and
formerly the seat of a Daimy5, is
well-situated on a slight eminence.
Though Yamagata affords little of
interest, there are evidences of
prosperity in the silk filatures, the
broad, clean streets, and fine shops.
An excellent kind of plum jeUy is
produced here.

North of Yamagata the plain
widens, and fine snow-capped
ranges come in sight. The road
passes through a succession of
small towns and farming villages.
For many miles it is quite level,
kept in excellent repair, and the
jinrikisha-men being controlled biJ^
a guild of innkeepers along the
route, one bowls over it both
speedily and cheaply. The journey
is divided into stages of about
3J ri each, for which tickets are
supplied at the start. The plain
is richly cultivated with rice, cotton,
tobacco, and miut. Of this last,
two crops are produced, — one in
June and one in October. It is
very fragi-ant when cut and hung
up to dry in front of the houses.
The most striking distant object
in the landscape is the summit
of Gwassan (for ascent of this
mountain, see p. 519), which
rises behind picturesque lesser
ranges, and whose slopes continue,
even during the hottest period of
the year, to be streaked with large
patches of snow.

Tenda {Inn, Shofu-kwan). Not
far from this town, in a south-
easterly direction, lies Yamadera, a
group of ancient Buddhist shrines,
perched on bare, rocky pinnacles,
and siuTounded by pine-trees and
cryptomerias. Beyond Tendo the
valley narrows, and is less densely
populated.

Tateoka {Inn, Easawara) pre-

sents a flourishing appearance for
a country town. The road be-
comes much more undulating be-
fore reaching

Obana-zawa (poor inn), a place
famous for the depth of its snow-
drifts in winter. — Boats descend
the Mogami-tfawa, one of the most
important rivers of N. Japan, from
the vill. of Oishida, near this place,
taking from 8 to 10 hrs. to make
the journey to Kiyokawa (see p. 519).
From the Sabane-toge, a steep
hill on this side of Fvnuijala, an
extremely fine mountaia view
greets the eye. The whole pano-
rama of the range dividing Uzen
from Eikuzen comes in sight, while
the Mogami-gawa winds its tortuous
way in the vaUey below. Fuuafjata
is a poor place. Here the prefectural
road from Tsuru-ga-oka and Sakata,
described in the next route, joins
in a short way out of the village.

Shinjo {Inn by Ito Yunosuke),
a quiet town, has a considerable
trade in rice, silk, and hemp.
The style of buildings in this
district and in those f m-ther to the
N. differs entirely from that met
with in central and southern
Japan. Nearly all the houses are
great oblong barns turned end-
wise to the road, and are built
with heavy beams and walls of
lath and brown mud mixed with
chopped straw. Rain-doors with
a few paper windows at the top re-
place the ordinary sliding-screens ;
and as there are no ceilings to the
rooms, the interior presents an un-
inviting appearance. Beyond Shinjo
the road crosses a steep i i ige into
a singular basin, partly surrounded
by thickly wooded pyramidal hills,
at the foot of which lies the vill. of
Kanayama. The next stage of the
journey is through wild and pic-
turesque scenery. Leaving the
hamlet of IXozoki (good accommo-
dation), the road descends along the
headwaters of the Omono-gawa.
The approach to

Innai, as weU as the road on to
Yuzawa, is through an avenue of

516

Route 72. — From Fukushima to Yonezawa.

cryptomerias. The silver mines of
Innai, first opened in the year 1599,
were once the most productive in
Japan.

The following description, condensed
from Dr. Kein, of the Japanese system
of mininp prior to the introduction of
scientific European methods, va-dj be of
interest : — " The development of the
mine and the excavation of ore were
accomplished solely by means of galleries
or Ogtri, which went up or down, accord-
ing to the direction of the lode, but were
also run across the strata to efi'ect an
opening. The hauling out took place
partly through these passages, and partly
through the so-called chimneys or
Kemuri-dashi which, however, are not
to be confounded with shafts, these be-
ing then unknown to them. These
Kemuri-dashi are not simple, smooth
holes, leading dii-ectly to the depths be-
low, but a peculiar arrangement of galler-
ies, which rise and fall, twist about,
grow wide or narrow according as they
encounter hard rock or nonmetallic soil,
or productive lodes and deposits which
may be excavated. In many respects
this resembles the clumsy, unscientific
method of mining among the Eomans.
But these employed captives and slaves,
whereas in Japan, even to the present
day, one part of this difficult labour, the
hauling out, is done by women and half-
grown children. In the Roman and Car-
thaginian mines, windlasses at least
lightened the labour : but in Japan, all
the material, ore or coal and waste earth,
is carried to the surface in baskets or
straw sacks on the back. The name,
Kemiirl-dashi (chimney) for these upper
exit galleries indicates also thiit they are
used for ventilation. In like manner the
lowest gallery serves principally to carry
off the water of the mine, wherefore it is
commonly called M idzu-nuki, water drain.
In these mining operations no machines
were employed, except very inadequate
hand pumps ; and the tools and other
appliances were few in number. It is
therefore surprising that they reached a
depth of from 700—800 feet, and that the
galleries had a length of 10,000 feet. In
these operations, proper sled^ie hammers
were altogether wanting. The work had
to be done almost entirely with the
help of the pickaxe, crowbar and steel
wedge, and, in the absence of explosives,
was necessarily carried on in a verv
limited space. Most of the galleries and
short passages are therefore very narrow
and low. * * * The water control be-
longs indisputably to the most primitive
and inadequate arrangements of Japanese
mines, being effected by means of a poor
kind of hand-suction pumps, which are
often quite insufficient, so that a mine
frequently has to be deserted because

the water becomes unmanageable. With
these defects was often associated a sys-
tem of mining by contract, which in-
creased the planless plundering of the
mines. « * * The preparation of the
ores when brought to the surface is
effected without machines, and falls into
the hands of women and children exclu-
sively. * * * For smelting all sorts of
ores, the Japanese use a_small. simple
oven or smelting hearth, 0-doko or Fulci-
doko (big, or blast-bed), with a hand
chest-bellows placed at its side. This is
called 0-fuigo and is worked by one man.
One person is suf&cient also for the
smelting hearth. This hearth is a shal-
low pit, 12 — 15 cm. in depth, and 40 — 50
cm. in diameter. It has a floor 30 cm.
thick, made of a cement of coal ashes and
clay, stamped hard, resting in turn upon
sand. The tire wall surrounding the pit
is a basket work made of thin branches,
and then covered close with mortar.
Charcoal is the means of reduction in
mixing the charge materials."

Yokote {Inn, Kosaka) is a dirty
town, with a large trade in cottons.

Omagari [Inn, Takenouchi). At

Jinguji (Inn, Hoso-ya), boats
may be taken down the Omono-
gawa to Akita. The current is
swift, though there are no rapids ;
and the journey of 42 m. may be
accomplished in 9 hrs.

Akita (Inns, Kohayashi Kanzo,
Ishibashi) is the capital of the pre-
fecture of the same name. This
town, also caUed Kubota, was
formerly the seat of the Satake
family. Considerable trade is
earned on here, and rice exported
in large quantities to the northern
parts of the main island and to
Hakodate. A striking view of
the plain with the river Omono-
gawa winding through it, and of
Tiiihei-zan and other mountains to
the N.E., is obtained from a hill
behind the town where the Dai-
my5's castle formerly stood. The
site has been converteii into a
Public Park of exceptional pictur-
esqueness, which is crowned by a
Shinto temple called Shokonsha.
Akita is now a garrison town.

A tramway, 4 m. in length, con-
nects Akita with its thriving sea-
port of Tsuchizaki.

Routes 73 & IL— Other Ways to Akita.

517

ROUTE 73.

Other Ways to Akita.

The following are cross-country
trips from stations on the Northern
Railway : —

1. Eail from Tokyo (Ueno) to
Kurosawa-jiri, in 16 hrs.; thence by
the following Itinerary, which is
the most picturesque land route,
some parts of it vividly recalling
the Aarthal.

KUEOSAWA-Jffil to :—

Ri Clio M.

Shitamura 3 18 8^

Sugino-hata 3 31 9|

Kawajiri 2 10 5 J

Nonojuku 1 30 4^

Yokote 5 30 14^

AKITA (by itine-
rary on p. 514) 18 34 46i

Total 36 9 88^

For Kurosawa-jii'i see p. 501.
The first part of the journey, as far
as Nonojuku, is rough and moun-
tainous.

2. A road from Morioka (17J hrs.
by rail fi-om T5kyo) to AMta joins
tbat given in Route 72 near
Omagari. The whole distance is
35 ri 8 cho, the Itinerary as far as
Omagari beiag as follows : —

MORIOKA to:— Ri Cho M.

Shizuku-ishi 4 10 10^

Hashiba 2 21 Q\

Border of prefecture 2 12 5f

Obonai 2 23 Qh

Kaku-no-tate 5 11 13"

OMAGARI 4 35 12^

Total 22 4 54

Near the small lake of Tazaica,
not far from Obonai, and also at
Kaku-no-tate, there are government
studs.

ROUTE 74.
Fbom Yonbzawa by the Miomotb

VAIiliEY to MtlEAKAMI ON THE

N.W. Coast and to

TstTBTJ-GA-OKA.

Itinerary.

YONEZAWAto:— Ri Clio M.

Komatsu 3 — 7J

Tenoko 3 9 8

Ogtini 9 — 22

Funato 2 — 5

Arazawa 2 18 6

Miomote 3 — 7^

Iwakuzure 5 — 12J

MURAKAMI 5 — 12|

Nakamura (by the

Shindo) 8 31 21J

Arakawa 18 1^

Nakatsugi 1 — 2^

Kinomata 4 6 lOj

Sakashita 3 10 8

Tagawa-yu 2 — 5

TSURU-GA-OKA... 1 31 4J

Total 54 15 133^

On this rough but picturesque
route the distances are approximate
only, and streams have occasionally
to be forded. JinriMshas can be
taken from Yonezawa to Funato,
from 1 ri below Iwakuzure to Mura-
kami and on to Nakamura, and
again from Tagawa-yn to Tsuru-ga-
oka, but must not be counted on.
With few exceptions, the only ac-
commodation is at the house of the
headman of each village.

The road lies first along the edge
of the plain, then over a slight
ascent, and up the valley of the
Shirakawa to

Tenoko {hm, Yamagata-ya). The
old road over the Sakura-toge is no
longer used. The new road leads
over the [fzu-ioge, then down the
valley, and eventually through the
fine gorge of the Uzugawa, being
in places almost tunnelled out of
the cliffs above the stream. Snow
lies in patches here till the middle
of June. lide-san, towering to a

518

Route 74. — The Miomot<' Valley.

height of 7,130 ft., is seen to ad-
vantage on the 1. before reaching

Oguni [Inn by Nozawa Yohei).
Thence a very bad jinrikisha road
and a ferry over the Arakawa lead
to Fuimto. From Arazawa a road
direct to Murakami branches off 1.
The path to Miomote — a mountain
trail — ^keeps on up the valley, climbs
a spur of Washi-ga-su, or the "Ea-
gles' Eyrie" (4,140 ft.), and crosses a
long pass whose successive dips bear
different names. Asahi-dake (6,530
ft.) is seen to the r. After a walk
of 2 ri, the path descends to a stream
which has to be forded, whence 1 ri
more takes the traveller to the
Miomote-gawa, a river remarkable
for its beauty. This too may have to
be forded ; but usually a boat can be
found by continuing up the bank
to a pool at the entrance of the
gorge. On a little level space op-
posite stands

Miomote (accommodation at the
temple), surrounded by hills entire-
ly wooded except for ledges of rock.
A highly picturesque ramble of 10
cho may be taken tip the gorge of the
Miomote-gawa. The track to Iwa-
kuzure, which is very rough — the
distance is 5 ri and occupies 7 hrs.
— leads straight up the Azuki-zaka,
opposite to a spring called JJonoki
Shimizu, or "Magnolia Spring," and
thence over steep slopes and ridges
across a jumble of densely wooded
hills. About 1 ri from Miomote, by
the side of the path, stands a shrine
— a tiny shed over a stick hung
with gohei — dedicated to the local
mountain god, Ddrokujin.

As the coolies pass, each lays a leaf on
the shrine, and ofl'ers up a prayer for safe
keeping. It seems that Dorokujiu was
one day wending his way to the Magnolia
•Spring, when he met, at a ravine called
Ozawa, a beautiful maiden who w;ts none
other than the goddess Benteu. She con-
sented to wed him, and then departed,
promising to return ; but as she never
came back, he still waits and wandera
over the mountains to provide for the
safety of wayfarers.

After a distant peep at the Sea of
Japan from the Toyaba-toge, the path

descends to the Ozawa, 2^ ri, a mere
rivulet, which can be crossed from
rock to rock ; then it rises over the
Ozawa-toge, descending again to the
Miomote-gawa, whose steep bank it
follows 1. high up, past a second
shrine to Dorokujin at a vantage-
point commanding a bend in the
river. It is 2^ ri more to Iwa-
kuzure. A still better plan is to
hire a boat and drop down the
rapids, 5 ri, in about 2 hrs. to

Murakami {Inn, *Mura-ya), a
fair-sized town. After crossing the
]VIiomote-gawa near its mouth, we
see to the r. Eboslii-yama and the
Echigo Fuji, a double-crested moun-
tain, one of whose peaks assionies
in miniature the exact form of its
great namesake, together with
others most varied in size and
contour. Clusters of pines and
cryptomerias, and the never-ending
green of a rich cultivation along the
lower level and of the gi'assy and
leafy heights, contribute to the
charm of the landscape.

From Nakamura, it is a per-
petual succession of steep ascents.

[An alternative way to Tsiu-u-ga-
oka — wilder and longer (17
ri) — branches off at Nakatsugi
over the Agi\ri-t6ge, passing
through the hamlets of Yama-
kumada, Tazawa, and Hongo.]

The principal sight on the way is
Urushi-yama no Iwaya, a striking
mass of gi'ey rock, which towers
romantically above a purling brook
from amidst a glade of giant cryp-
tomerias, and is half-shrouded in
live oaks and creepers.

Legend avers that the hero Hachiman
Taro here built him a roof of arrows as
a shelter from the weather, when he had
defeated his foes in this mountain fast-
ness. Hence the uauie (or mther per-
haps the name may have given rise to the
stor.v) of Yal)uki Daimyojin. lit. the " (iod
of the Arrow-roofiug," under which this
warrior is worshipped as the local Shinto
deity.

Tag-awa-yu, a village so called
from its hot springs, is situated at
the foot of the Dainichi-tdge. It

Route 75. — From Yonezawa to Aomori.

519

contains several good tea-houses
with pleasant bathing accommoda-
tion. For
Tsuru-ga-oka, see below.

ROUTE 75.

T*BOM Yonezawa to the Sea of

Japan and tjp the N. W.

Coast to Aomori.

ascent of haguro-san, gwassan,
chokai-zan, and iwaki-san.

Itinerary to Akita.

YONEZAWA to:— M Oho M.

Funagata 26 4 63|

Moto-Aikai 2 21 6^

Furukxichi 2 8 5^-

Kiyokawa 3 12 S\

Karigawa 1 12 3J-

Fujishima 1 34 4^

TSUEU-GA-OKA. 2 8 5|

Yokoyama T 23 4

Niibori ;t 11 8

SAEATA 1 33 4|

FujisaM 2 19 %\

Fuku-ura 2 23 6^-

Shiokoshi 4 21 llj^

Hirazawa 3 20 8|

HONJO 4 — d'i

Matsu-ga-saki 3 15 ^\

Hanegawa 3 12 8^

Araya 2 12 5i^

AKITA 1 25 4^

Total 74 25 183

This route is recommended only
to those whose chief object is moun-
tain climbing. The road is the
same as Route 72 as far as Funa-
gata, where it strikes due W. over
a cultivated upland, and then down
a narrow valley to Moto-Aikai, a
vill. on the Mogami-gawa, which
here sweeps past some chalk cliffs
curiously hollowed out by water.
An ingenious device for swinging

the ferry-boat from one side of th^
river to the other by the force of th^
current conveys the traveller to the
I. bank. After Furukuchi the sce-
nery becomes highly picturesque,
and is of a character not usual in
Japan. The river, though flowing
between lofty hills, partly covered
with splendid yews and crypto-
merias, is quite placid, and is stud-
ded with primitive boats having
brown mats for sails. The neat
vill. of

Kiyokawa, (J/tn,, Watauabe) lies
at the lower end of the gorge, where
the river and the road now separate,
the former flowing r. to Sakata, th6
latter going 1. through pleasant
cultivated country and prosperous
villages. The ascent of Haguro-
san is frequently made from Kari-
gawa (good accommodation), whence
the distance is estimated at 3 ri
by jinrikisha to a place called Togi,
and 20 cho more on foot.

Tsuru-ga-oka, or Shonai {Inns,
by Tabayashi Gorobei ; Ishii-ya ; Ki-
gawa, a tea-house with fine garden
and mountain view), was former-
ly the castle-town of a Daimy5 call-
ed Sakai Saemon-no-j6. The retain-
ers of this personage are remember-
ed for the sturdy resistance which
they offered in 1868 to the Mikado's
troops, and for their rough, un-
cultivated manners. The women,
too, of Tsuru-ga-oka and the sur-
rounding district are of a larger
type, more upright in bearing, and
have better complexions than their
sisters in other parts of the country.
There are several remarkable water-
falls in the neighbouring moun-
tains. Besides the mountains de-
scribed below, the peak of Kimbu-
san looms up prominently to the
S. of the town.

Haguro-san and Gwassan
may be conveniently cUmbed from
Tsuru-ga-oka. Gwassan, the high-
er of the two, is only 6,2t)0 ft. above
the level of the sea ; and it is there-
fore not so much on account of
their height as of their reputation
for sanctity that they are known

520

Route 75. — from Yonezawa to Aomori.

throughout the length and breadth
of the land, and yearly attract
throngs of pilgrims.

A curioHB (liacussion has arisen concern-
ing the existence of a third mountain
called Vudono-xan, to which, togetlier with
Haguro-san and Gwasaan, the collective
name of !>an-zan, or the "Three Moun-
tains,'' is applied. Yudono-san is marked
on almost all Japanese maps, posts point
the way to it, pious pilgrims plan the as-
cent of it, and — no such mountain exists!
This, on the authority of Dr. E. Nau-
mann, long attached to the Imperial
Japanese Survey Department, and pro-
bably better acquainted with the byways
of Japan than any other man living.
According to Mr. Percival Lowell, how-
ever, Yudono-san, though not itself a
mountain, is a hollow on the sliouhlei- of
a mountain called Umba-ga-take. This
spot is considered sacred, and is a goal
of pilgrims. Those who affirm and those
who deny the existence of the sacred
mountain would therefore seem to be
equally in the right, as the question is
one which turns on the definition of the
word " mountain." or rather of the .Japa-
nese word tian.

It is necessary, in order to avoid
the discomfort of spending two
nights on the mountains, to start
at a very early hour. Haguro-san
is visited first, 4 ri through the
forest, 2 m. of which up stone steps
leading to a fine shrine. Thence
into a smalj wooded valley, and out
on to a wide plateau at the foot of
the steep ascent of ( Iwassan, whose
summit is crowned by a small
shrine, and has a lake in what was
perhaps formerly a crater. The
total distance from Haguro-san to
the summit of Gwassan is !) ri ; but
accommodation for the night can
be obtained at any of the three
hamlets situated on its slope. The
traveller is achised to t-hoose the
higliest of the three, and next day
to return to Tsuru-ga-oka via Ta-
imiki and Oami.

[Instead of returning to Tsuru-
ga-oka, it is also possible to
reach Yammjata by descending
from the top of Gwassan to
the hamlet of Twane-zawa, a
walk of 6 ri, where, at a dis-
tance of IJ ri, one meets the
road from Tsuru-ga-oka to

Yamagata via the Roku^u-rv-
goe, of which the following

itinerary gives the approxi-
mate distances : —

TSURU-GA-OKA to :—

Ri Cho M.

jVIatsune 2 33 7

Top of Jino-toge... 1 — 2^

Chiirenji Onsen ... 8 %

Oami 1 — 2J

Tamugi 1 — 2|

Sasagoyahut 3 — 7|

Top of Roku-jti-ri-

goe 1 18 3|

Shizu 2 — 5

Honddji 2 34 7J-

Mizusawa 1 20 3|

Nagasaki 4 18 11

Y.yVIAGATA 3 — 1\

Total 24 23 60i

Jinrikishas are practicable
only for a few ri at either end
of this road.]

Leaving Tsuru-ga-oka, the roa»l
runs along the 1. bank of the Aka-
gawa, which is crosse<l at Yokoyama,
a pleasant httle place. Signs of
prosperity will be noticed every-
where in the cleanly villages, excep-
tionally neat farmsteatls, school-
houses, good roiuls, etc. The Mo-
gami-gawa is crossed close to its
luouth before reaching

Sakata {Inns, iliura-ya, Mura-
kami), a port of call for steamers,
and the natural outlet for the trade
of the districts of Tsuni-ga-oka and
Yamagata, which are noted for their
rice produce. The town lies under
the shelter of a pine-clad hiU, crown-
ed by a Buddhist temple and over-
looking the Sea of Japan. Small
steamers run up and down the
coast daily ; but the bar at the
mouth of the river prevents any-
thing like punctiaidity. Basha
traverse the distance between Saka-
ta and Honjo on jUternate liays ;
from Honjo to Akita, from Akita to
Noshiro, and from Noshiro to
Odate, daily.

Ascent of Chokai-zan. Hovjo.

J21

From Fuku-ura (fair accommoda-
tion), the ascent of Chokai-zan
(7,200 ft.) may best be made ; but
one should put up at the cluster of
inns (Sakata-ya, and others) by the
sea-side, called Fuku-ura Onsen, 10
cho beyond the ■vill. A trip to this
magnificent mountain is strongly
recommended. Sunrise is the best
time for the view, for which reason
the traveller should arrange so as
to spend the night on the top. It
is, however, possible to make the
ascent and to descend again to
Fuku-ura in one long day. The
distance to the summit, which is
considered to be 9 ri, is divided into
three equal stages, of which the
first may be performed on horse-
back. The second leads up to
the shed at Kaicura-ishi, 4,800 ft.
above the sea. where water and
poor native fare can be obtained,
and where even in summer patches
of snow remain. The third stage
passes by the rim of an ancient
crater, and over snow and volcanic
scoriaj to the present peali. Near
the top are some sheds for pilgrims,
and a small temple little better
than a hut. The actual siimmit
rises 800 ft. above this point, and
is reached by clambering over a
■wilderness of broken rocks and
stones, the effect doubtless of some
long-forgotten eruption.

The tirat recorded DUtbuivt took place
in AD. 861, aud the last in 1H61. Tracos
of its aclion may still be ne(;n in the
soKatiira on the W. aide of the mountain ;
but the upheaval was an ins<i|.;iiilicant
one, and the volcanic torce of Chokai-zan
is evidently becoming extinct. 'I"hc little
island of Tobi-shima, a few miles ofl' the
coast, is believed to have been ejected
from Chokai during an eruption of that
mountain. It is inhabited solely by
flehcrnien.

From the summit the eye wan-
ders over the entire range of moun-
tains diviiling Ugo from Rikuchu,
and over those of Nambu beyond.
Looking W. is the sea, \\ith to
the r. the long headland of Ojika.
Opposite lies Hishima, and to the
1. Awajiuiii and S;xdo. To the S. is

the plain of the lower Mogami-
gawa, bounded by the mountains
of Uzen and Echigo, with the long
slope of Gwassan in the centre.
Most curious of all, as the first rays
of light break through the dark-
ness, is the conical shadow of
Chokai-zan itself, projected on to
the sea, and rapidly diminishing in
size as the sun mounts higher.

The road now lies along the
coast at the foot of Chokai-zan and
Inamura-dake, as far as t^hiokoshi,
the latter part, where the spurs of
the mountain run down to the sea,
being a succession of ups and
downs. The views of Chokai-zan
vary constantly. From Shiokoshi
to Hirazawa, the coast is much
broken up by tiny bays, whose
entrances are guarded by rocky
cUffs, and where fishing hamlets
line the shore. Pretty pine-woods
mark the approacli to

Hon jo (Inn, *Ozono), a neat and
prosperous little town standing
on the banks of the Koyoshi-gawa.
Its port is called Furuyuki.

The townsfolk take great pride in the
neighbouring volcano of Chokai-zan,
which they consider their special pro-
perty. The mountain, they aver, faces
thom, whereas it turns its back on the
rival city of Sakata. It may be explained
that Japanese habits of thought and
speech give a front and a back entrance
to high mountains in general, as already
noticed incidentally under I'uii, Nautai-
zan, etc.

From HoTijo onA\ards, as far as
Alrita, the coast extends in one long
\mbroken dreary line of sandy
shore, the high land of the pro-
montory of Ojika standing out to
the 1. ahead. The manufacture of
salt from sea-water by a rough
process is earned on here to a con-
siderable extent ; and in the month
of Alay large quantities of Jiatahata,
a fish resembling the sardine, jire
caught with the seine. An inferior
land of lamp-oil is extracted from
this fish, and the refuse employed
as mantire.

Akita (see p. 510).

522

Route 75^ — From Yonezawa to Aomorr.

Itinerary from Akiia to Odate.

AKITAto:— Bi Cho M.

Tsuchizald 1 26 ^

ShimoAbakawa... 3 32 9^

Hitoichi 2 — 5

Kado 2 31 7

NOSHIRO 5 31 14J-

Tsurngata 2 3 5

Kotsunagi 4 22 U}

Tsuziireko 3 1 7J

ODATE 4 13 lOf

Total 30 15 74^

Thence rail as follows ;
O-U RAILWAY.

Distance

from

Names of Stations.

Odate

ODATE

1 4 lu.

Sliirazawa

1 ^i

Jimba

i 15

IKARI-GA-SEKI

20|

Owani

HIROSAKI

31 1

Kawabe

37J

Namioka

40^

Daishaka

46*

Shin jo

5()|

AOMORI

This line is being rapidly pushed
W. and S. towards Noshiio and
Akita, so that before this book is
issued, it wiU doubtless be possible
for travellers from the south to
avail themselves of it before Odate.
At Tsuchizaki, a port of call for
the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha steam-
ers, and a bustling place, the road
strikes north towards the shore of a
large lagoon, called Hachiro-gata,
whose greatest length from N. to S.
is 17 111., its breadth aboiit 7^ m.
The entrance on the S.W., by which
it communicates with the sea, is
only about 150 yds. wide.

[On the W. of the bay formed by
the headland on the opposite
side of the lagoon, hes the port
of Funakawa (Inn, by Moroi),

near which are some remark-
able rocks rising to GO ft. in
height, and in one place form-
ing a natiiral briilge in the sea.
Funakawa is lU ri 28 ehn distant
by road from Akita, passing
through FunoJcoshi, at the
mouth of the lagoon, 6 ri 21
t'lio from AJdta. Jinrildshas
are available.]
After leaving the lagoon at Kado,
the road strikes across a rich plain
which extends from the sea-shore to
the mountains on the r., and then
northwards to

Noshiro {Inn, Sekine), a big,
straggling place, at the mouth of
the river of the same name. Some
silver work is done here, chiefly in
tobacco pipes, ornaments for the
hair, and rings. A good deal of
copper in sheets also comes down
from the mountains for shipment.
From Tsurugata, the road ascends
the valley of the Noshiro-gawa to
the fair-sized town of

Odate [Inn by Ilanaoka), where
quantities of coarse lacquered ware
are manufactured. Numbers of
horses are bred in this neighbour-
hood. The railway route between
Odate and

Ikari-ga-seki [Inn, Shibata-ya),
often called Seki for short, is very
picturesque, passing through a hiUy
region where much tunnelling has
been necessary. In the longest of
these tunnels, a lighted lamp marks
the boundary between the provinces
of Ugo and Mutsu.

Hirosaki (Innn, Sasaki, Saikichi)
was formerly the castle-town
of a Daimyo, whose territory
included the district of Tsngarji, — a
part of the present province of
Rikuoku. Rixins of the castle, built
in 1611, still remain. The grounds
have been tiirned into a public
park, and there is a museum con-
taining some antiquities. Excellent
apples grow in this neighbourhood.

[On the coast, some 19 ri from
Hirosaki, of which the first 10
ri !xs far as Ajiijasawa by

Route 76. — The North- East Coast.

523

jinrikisha, lies Faka-ura, a place
whicli is rising into importance
owing to its manganese mines,
from' 3,000 to 4,000 tons being
produced annually. The road
follows southwards along the
coast through Noshiro (18 ri)
to Aldta, 15 ri more, practicable
for jinrikishas.]
To the W. of the town rises
Iwaki-san, or the Tsugaru Fuji,
so called on account of its similari-
ty in shape to the famous mountain
of that name. Its solitary grand-
eur equals, if it does not surpass,
that of the loftier cone. The
ascent is made from Ifyaku-sawa,
about 3 ri from Hirosaki, at the
south foot of the mountain, where
stands a temple whose priest will
furnish guides for the expedition.
The season at which pilgiims make
the ascent is strictly limited ; but
travellers will find no difficiTlty
in obtaining the necessary per-
mission at any time, by maldng
a small present. At a height of
4,100 ft. lies an oval crater, about
100 yds. wide, containing a small
pond. To reach the highest peak
of all, 4,650 ft. high, entails two
steep clambers over boiUders and
loose gi'avel. Scattered over the
summit lie numerous huge andesite
boulders. The top is extremely
steep, a fact apparently due in large
measure to the washing away of
ejectamenta, which has left only
the solid rock. Notwithstanding
the great degradation that hiis taken
place upon the upper part of this
mountain, its general form and the
existence of beds of pumice indicate
that it has been in a state of erup-
tion during recent geological
periods. The ascent and descent
can be easily accomplished in 5^
hours.

From Hirosaki the line leads
across a plain cultivated ^^ith
rice, then through a cutting in the
Tsugaru-zaka hills, iind down a
naiTow valley to the coast at
Aoniori (see p. 504).

ROUTE 76.

The Nokth-East Coast.

fkom moeioka to mrtako. coast
road to yamada, kamaishi, and

ke3en-numa.

The North-East Coast, hitherto
comparatively inaccessible, can now
be approached from several points
on the Northern Railway. SmaU
steamers also ply at irregular
intervals along the coast, which
deserves to be better known. Spe-
cially to be recommended is the
portion embracing the sea-board of
the pro\dnces of Rikuchu and Riku-
zen, extending southwards from
Miyako to Kesen-numa. The road
leads over the necks of hilly penin-
sulas, disclosing marvellous views
of the fiord-like coast and of the
mountain ridges that extend down
to it. The harbours are the finest
in Japan, though unfortunately but
little advantage can be taken of
them, as a mountain range shutg
out the fertile valley of the Kita-
kami-gawa which attracts to itself
all the produce of the smrounding
districts, the scanty maritime
population having to subsist on
fishing and on the cultivation of
small isolated patches of land
around the bays. The nature of
the country sutticiently indicates
the roughness of the roads and of
the accommodation to be expect-
ed. Moreover, this cHstrict recently
experienced a dire calamity, — the
gi-eat tidal wave of June. 1896,
which swept away entire viilagea
along the whole stretch of coast
extending fiom Kinkwa-zan north-
wards to the Tonami peninsula.
It is ofi: this coast that lies the
deepest portion of the Pacific,
known as the "Tuscarora Deep."
North of Sliyako, the mountains
recede from the sea and the land-
scape becomes monotonous.

From Morioka, a road barely prac-
ticable for jinrilcishas (horses to be
preferred) leads to Miyako. The

624

Route 76. — North-East Coast.

trip takes 2 days' hard travelling,
the only available resting-place be-
ing Kawn-uchi, almost exactly half-
way.

Itinerary.

MORIOKAto:— Ei Cho M.

Yanagawa 5 10 13

Tashiro 2" 14 5|

Kadoma 2 9 5J

Ka\sa-uchi -t '.i 10

Kawai 4 7 lOj

Haratai 3 6 7f

Hildme 2 26 6|

MIYAKO 3 5 7|

Total 27 8 66i

Soon after leaving Morioka, the
Toad begins a steady ascent for 7
ri, reaching the water-shed after a
series of large elbow-bends. The
summit (2,600 ft.) is called Kabuto-
kami-san, since here it was that the
helmet (kahuto) of the rebel Abe-no-
Sadato was found after his defeat
near Ichinoseki by Hachiman Taro
in A.D. 1100. From this point
doTVTi to the sea, the road follows
the coiirse of the Ilegatca-kawa, the
grandest scenery coming some 3 ri
below the pass on its E. side. Here
for 2 ri the road is cut out, half
tunnelwise, high up along the face
of the sheer precipice, which looks
down upon the torrent rushing and
foaming in its rocky channel. To
see this to perfection, an early start
from Morioka is necessary. From
Kawa-uchi to Miyako is an endless
succession of picturesque land-
scapes, with granite boulders glit-
tering in the broadening river as
it sweeps round jutting cliffs and
pillared blocks of basalt. Near
Kadoma, a path branches off to the
S., leading up the valley of the
Oyama-gawa, whence the ascent of
Eayachi7ie-ya7Mi (6,660 ft.), the
highest mountain in the district E.
of the Kitakami-gawa, can be
made.

Miyako lies on the shores of a
bay 5 m. deep, protected by an is-
land forming a fine harbour.

Coast Eoad to Kamaibhx

Itinerary.

MIYAKO to :— Bi Cho M.

Y'^amada 6 — 14J

Ozuchi 5 12 13

KAMAISHI 3 19 8^

Total 14 31 36J

Horses are procurable at any of
these places.

Yamada. Two villages lie on
the shores of the magnificent bay
that forms the harbour of Y'^amada,
suiTounded by mountains over
1,000 ft. in height.

Eamaisbi is situated at the
head of a rocky inlet 2 m. deep.
The ascent of Goyo-zan, 3,900 ft.,
can easily be made from this place.
About 10 m. inland is a district
abounding in iron ore.

From Kamaishi, the traveller may
rejoin the Northern Kail way at
INIorioka by the Kamaishi Kaidd, of
which the following is the

Itinerary.

KAMAISHI to:— Bi Cho M.

Koshi 4 31 11^

TONO 6 20 16

Shimo Mivamori ... b 24 13J

Tassobe 1 19 3J

Ohasama 2 15 6

Otobe 4 33 12

MORIOKA 2 32 7

Totiil 28 30 70J^

A somewhat more direct road for
travellers going southwards diver-
ges at the old castle-town of Tono,
and joins the railway at Haiiaviaki,
l\ hr. to the S. of Morioka.

The journey from Kamaishi to
Eesen-numa will occupy two days
on foot, \^ith very poor accommoda-
tion at the wayside hamlets. From
Kesen-numa, a jinrikisha road
leads via Semmaya to Iddnoseki
on the Northern Eailway. The
distance is approximately 13 ri.

Routes 11 <k 78. — Lc^e Towada and Tonami Peninsula. 525

EOUTE 77.

Lake Towada.

This beautiful lake, 1,500 ft.
above sea-level, lies 15 ri W. of
Sannohe on the Northern Railway,
of which distance the first 3 ri to
Takico (Inn, Ogata) can be done
in jinrikisha ; the rest must be
waited or ridden. One may sleep
at the Taikomori Frirm-house, 2 ri
beyond Takko, and at Yasumiya
on the E. shore of the lake. The
rough mountain paths lead up over
moorland and throiigh finely tim-
bered country. It is a distance of
2^ ri across the lake by boat from
Yasumiya to the poor mining vill.
of To"wada, where small quan-
tities of gold, silver, and copper
are produced.

[Kosaka, 6 I'i S. of Towada, is a
far more important mine,
which has been worked from
early times, and yields a little
gold as well as much silver.
Ani, still further to the south,
produces more copper than
silver.]

The path leads hence northwards
to Edozawa, Ichi-no-icaiari, Mka-
mura, and liadome, approximately
2 ri distant from each other, — the
journey occupying one day, and the
luggage being carried on bullocks'
backs. It is a succession of ups
and downs, with one giand view
backwards over the lake, and
after that, scenery of the usual
Japanese kind. The next stage
of aboiit 2 ri takes one into Kuro-
ishi (fair accommodation). Jin-
rikishas are practicable thence on
to Namioka, some 3 ri fiu'ther,
which is 1 hr. fi'om Aomori by
train.

Should the traA'eller wish to ap-
proach Lake Towada from the
W., the following Itinerary of a
mountain road from Odate (see p.
522) win be found the best. There
is passable accommodation at Ogita
and at Kemanai.

ODATEto:— Ri Cho M.

Ogita 1 18 3|

OtaM 1 23 4

Junisho 17 1\

Kemanai 3 4 7|

Oyu 1 30 4i

TOWADA 5 — 12|

Total 13 20 33

ROUTE 78.

The Tonami Pbninsuia.

general obsbkvations. i"eom no-

hbji to tanabtj. fkom aomoki

to 5minato. kamafuse-san

and osoee-zan.

This rarely visited part of the
empire, distinguished on the map
by its curious hatchet shape, lies in
the extreme N. E. corner of the
Main Island. The head of the
hatchet — so to speak — consists of a
jumble of hills, very sparsely in-
habited, while the handle is narrow,
mostly flat moorland noted for its
deep snowprifts in winter and
absence of shade or shelter in every
season. The W. coast is rocky, the
E. sandy. Unfortunately the ac-
commodation is everywhere very
poor, except at Tanabu, the chief
town, and at Ominato. But politi-
cal considerations have of late years
led the Government to devote some
attention to the development of
this region, and the land, which in
many places is admirably adapted
for gi-azing pm-poses, has been
offered to settlers at a nominal
price. The aiithorities themselves
contemplate the establishment of a
naval station at Ominato, and the
building of a hne of railway from
Noheji N. through Tanabu and
Obata to Omazaki, the northern tip
of the peninsula, whence HaKodate

526

RouLf, 78. — Tlie Tonami Peninsula.

would be reached by steamer in 2
hrs., instead of the present 6 hrs.
passage from Aomori. — Apples of
excellent qiiality and other Eu-
ropean fruits grow well in the vicin-
ity of Tanabu.

The peninsula can be approached
in two ways :

I. By hasha from Noheji on the
Northern Kail way to Tanabu ( Inn,
*Yamamoto), a distance of 13 ri 7
cho (32^ m.), divided into two stages
by the midway vill. of Yokohama,
where one may lunch. The road
is, as already indicated, flat, sandy
in parts, and treeless, and what
land lies under cultivation affords
but meagre crops to a few hardy
settlers. The extinct volcanic
peak of Kamafuse-san, at the
N. E. corner of the bay, forms a
picturesque object in the fore-
ground.

n. By small coasting steamer, on
alternate days, from Aomori to
Ominato. The passage occupies 7
hrs., the steamer usually calling in
at the junk harboxars of WaJcino-
sawa and Tanosawa, on the S. shore
of the peninsula. Every small in-
dent of the coast line contains a
cluster of houses backed by well-
wooded hills. Droves of cattle may
also be seen on the fine grazing
ground lining the shore as the ves-
sel approaches Ominato, a small
port lying at the foot of Kamafuse-
san, which here slopes down in
deep ridges to the water's edge.
Tanabu is 1 ri 20 cho distant by a
good jinrikisha road.

Kamafuse-san. This, the high-
est mountain in the peninsula,
3,016 ft. above sea-level, is best as-
cended from Ominato, the climb
being estimated at 3 ri. The sum-
mit affords an extensive and unique
view. Hakodate is visible, as well
as most of the higher mountains of
N. Japan.

Osore-zan ("The Mountain of
Dread," but the name is more prob-
ably of Aino derivation). This
^lace, famous all over the north.

is not a mountain, as is commonly
believed, but a hollow in the hills
behind Kamafuse-san, in which
are found a crater lake, a Bud-
dhist temple, and sulphur-refining
works. It lies 3 ri 13 cho (8^ m.)
from Tanabu, the way leading for
1\ hr. over moorland, and then up
and down under the shade of chest-
nuts and cedars (for a descent
of 21 cho has to be made), before
reaching the lake, — Osore-ko, which
is only 690 ft. above sea-level.
Densely wooded peaks surround
it, those on the E. and S. rising
directly from the lake, with Kama-
fuse towering above all. Close by,
on the W. side, stands the temple of
Bodaiji.

Legend names Jikaku Daisbi a-s its
fowuder, to whom the peculiar attributes
of the place were revealed in a dream
during his visit to China in A.D. 8:i8. The
saint's wanderings in tbe north, after his
return to Japau, finally led him to take
up his abode on Kamafuse-san, from
whose summit a cormorant flying north-
wards indicated the object oif his early
dream. The annual festival takes place
on the 24th day of the 7th moon, old
style.

The temple buildings are well-
preserved, the priests provide fair
accommodation for visitors, and the
sulphur baths enjoy a wide reputa-
tion for their eflicacy in various ail-
ments. To the 1. of Bodaiji, a large
area has been devastated by subter-
ranean forces, boiling water and
mud of every hue seethes up inces-
santly both through the soil and
the solid rock, while all around huge
rocks lie scattered about in strange-
ly contorted shapes, the blear aspect
of the scene forming a striking
contrast to the green hills and the
placid blue of the lake. The sul-
phiu'-refining works also stand on
this side.

It would not make too long a
day to vary this excursion by tak-
ing jinrildshafrom Tanabu to Obata
(3 ri 29 cho) on the N. coast, whence
a walk of about 4 ri to Osore-zan,
and returning to Tanabu by the
way described above.

SECTION VIII.
THE ISLAND OF YEZO.

(Routes yg — 8^.

Route 79. — Hakodate and Neighbourhood.

529

KOUTE 79.

Hakodate and Nbighbodkhood.

1. gbneeaii obseeyations ox yezo.
2. hakodate. 3. walks neak
hakodate i yachi-gashiea, the

PEAK, GOBYO-KAKtJ.

1. — Generai. Observations
ON Yezo.

No mention of Yezo is made in the
earlier historical records, and it was pro-
bably unknown to the Japanese until the
period when the last of the Ainoa, or
Ainu, as they are called in their native
tongue, were expelled from their ancient
homes in the Main Island of Japan.
Tradition asserts that Yoshitsune (p. 88),
a favourite hero of hiBtori(;al romance,
found refuge here from the unnatural
enmity of his elder brother ; and to this
day his memory is revered by the simple
aborigines. Later on Yezo was colonised
and partly conquered by Takeda Nobu-
hiro, to whose descendant, IMatsumae
Yoshihiro, the lordship of the island was
granted in 1601 by leyasu. Matsumae's
successors, whose seat of government
was at the town of Matsumae, since re-
named Fukuyama, continued to rule over
the western portion of the island down to
1868. From towards the end of the 18th
century, the eastern half had, with the
exception of a break from 1820 to 1854,
been administered by officials of the Sho-
gunate. During the civil troubles of 1868,
Admiral Enomoto took the Shogun's fleet
np to Yezo, captured Hakodate and Matsu-
mae, and proclaimed a republic, but
■was forced to capitulate in the following
year. After the overthrow of the Toku-
gawa Shoguns and the consequent media-
tisatiou of the Daimyos, Yezo was placed
under a special department of the new
government, entitled Kaitakushi (Colo-
nisation Commission), and henceforth
was regarded as a part of Japan projjer.
It received the designation of Hokkaido,
or North Sea Circuit, and was divided
Into ten provinces. Yezo had been
formerly resorted to' by the northern
Japanese chiefly for the sake of the
fisheries ; but attemi^ts were now made to
induce natives of other parts of Japan to
emigrate thither as agricultural settlers,
and public works were commenced on an
extensive scale with the object of develop-
ing the resources of the island, .\fter
large sums had been expended without
adequate return, the more ambitious of
these schemes were abandoned in 1881,
the Kaitakushi being dissolved, and the
government of the island assimilated to
the prefectural system of the rest of the

empire, with Sapporo as the capital.
The chief ports of Yezo are Hakodate,
Muroran, Kushiro, and Nemuro on the
S. E. coast, and Otaru, not far from Sap-
poro, on the west. The interior is still for
the most part covered with virgin forest,
rarely penetrated except by the aboriginal
Ainos in quest of bears and deer.

The characteristics of Yezo, both
natural and artificial, differ in many
respects from those of the Main Island of
Japan. The climate is colder, the country
newer, the people less polished and more
independent. Few if any old temples or
other historical monuments exist ; but
there are interesting remnants of the
Aino race — hairy barbarians, — which once
peopled not Yezo only, but a great por-
tion of Northern Japan. In many places,
too, relics of the stone age, which for this
island has only recently passed away, are
to be met with. The representative Aino
village most easy of access is Piratori, one
day's journey from Tomakomai, on the
Muroran-Sapporo Railway. Horobetsu
and Shiraoi on the same railway, Yurappu
and Oshamambe on the shore of Volcano
Bay are less interesting. The race and its
customs arc found in a purer state only
in the remotest districts of the north.

Zoologically, Yezo belongs to a difl'erent
sub-region from Japan proper, the deep
Straits of T.susaru forming what has been
called "Blakiston's line" from the name
of the late Captain T.W. Blakiston, R. A.,
whose researches are well-known to
science. On the Yezo side of this line
there are no pheasants and no monkeys,
while there exist a species of grouse and
the solitary snipe ; the bears belong to a
different species from those found on the
Main Island. Yezo is also remarkable
for the number of its singing birds.
There are numerous other divergences
both in the fauna and flora, adding their
testimony to the fact that Yezo and the
Main Island, though so close to each
other, have been separated during long
geological ages. The chief productions
are herrings, salmon, iwasld, beche-
de-mer, fish manure and above all
kombu (or J.obu). a broad, thick, and
very long species of seaweed, which forms
a favourite article of diet not only in
Japan but in China, to which latter coun-
try large quantities are exported. The
most important mineral product hitherto
has been coal. Gold was discovered in
1899.

For five months of the year Yezo ia
under snow and ice, the snow averaging
about 2 ft. at Hakodate, and from 6 ft.
to 8 ft. in the N. and W. of the island.
The lowest reading of the thermometer
at Hakodate since the establishment of
regular meteorological observations has
been 5o.5 Fahrenheit. Ou the other hand,
the second half of July and the first half
of August are unpleasantly hot, mosqui-
toes are very troublesome, and there is

530

Route 79. — Hakodate and Neighbourhood.

an additional ppst of ga'Iflies (ahu), whose
attacks are so violent that it is necessary
to beep both face and bands well protect-
ed when riding ahout the country. The
hest time for visiting Yezo is from the
middle of May to the middle of July, and
from the beginning of September to the
beginning of November. The scenery of
the island, though less striking than that
of Japan proper, has a charm of its own
and a certain resemblance to North-Cen-
tral Europe. There is good salmon fishing
in several places during the month of
June, and snipe and duck shooting in
the autumn, with occasionally a bear.

There are comparatively few good
roads, the inns are often far apart, and
jinrikishae are met with only in a few
places, and bashd on the main roads.
Most journeys are performed in the
saddle, horses being very numerous,
though not particularly good or cheap.
The usual charge for hire is about 25 sen
a ri.

The Japanese inhabitants of Yezo are
a mixed community, being chiefly settlers
from one or other of the northern prov-
inces. The consequence is that there
is no special local dialect, but only a
general use of various northern patois.
The traveller acquainted with the
standard Japanese language, as spoken
in Tokyo, will do well to remember that
i is constantly changed into w, and is
sometimes dropped altogether. Thus,
when he hears matiii and mizu (almost
m'dz) he must understand machi and
michi. Nil ru (almost n' r') means ni ri,
two ri. In fact, the northern people
seem to try to speak without opening
their months. The population of Yezo
numbers 610,000, of whom 17,000 Ainos.

2. — Hahodatb.

Hakodate.

Inn.s. — Katsutfi. Kito. Chigai-
sangi. There are no hotels ap-
proaching the standard of the other
open ports.

Re,stcmrants. — Goto-ken (Europ.
dishes), in Snehiro-cho; Goiyo-kwan,
in Omachi.

Europ. Shops. — Kanemori, Inia-
ichi, and Kaneni, all in the main
street.

The town clusters at the foot of
a bold rock, often compared to
Gibraltar and known to foreigners
as Hakodate Head, whose summit,
locally called 'the Peak," is 1,157
ft. high. Among the largest build-
ings are the Japanese Club, Public
HaJQ, and Naval School. The num-

ber of foreign residents — chiefly
missionaries — is small, and the
town, notwithstanding its growing
size and prosperity, is of little ac-
count as a port for direct foreign
trade. Waterworks were construct-
ed in 1889. The water is conveyed
in iron pipes from the river Aka-
gawa, 7 m. distant. A tram line
runs from one end of the town to
the other.

Good steamers connect Hakodate
with Yokohama two or three times
a week. Steamers occasionally run
down the west coast to Tsuchizaki
(for Aldta), Sakata, and Niigata.
There is also daily communication
between Aomori, Hakodate, and
Muroran, and a whole fleet of small
steamers ply to places on the coast.

3. — Wauss neak Hakodatk.

To the Public Gardens and Ya-
chi-gashira. The Public Gardens,
on the E. outskirts of the town,
contain a small Museum (Uaku-
butsu-kwan). Yachi-gashira (often
mispronounced Yatsu-gashira) is
the name of a picturesque deU
lying a little further on, which,
besides being a pleasant walk,
offers the attraction of a good
restaurant called Asada-ya, situated
in its own grounds and command-
ing a fine view. TTie Shinto tem-
ple of Hachiman is also prettily
placed on the hillside. The village
on the near sea-shore seen from
here is calle<l Shiri-s-awabe, passing
through which a walk of about J m.
may be taken to a spot known to
foreigners as East Point. Just at
the back of thi^ stands a curious
arched rock.

The Peak, which used to be a
favourite walk from Hakodate on
account of the extensive view from
the summit, is now closed to visi-
tors, as a fort is in process of con-
struction there. The lower summit
of the pe:\k towards the N.W.,
which is still accessible, well repays
the cUmb. Both it and East Point
command a good view, embracing

Route 80. — Excursions from Hakodate.

531

S.E., Shiokiibi, distant 13 m.; N.
Yorozii-yama, 12 m.; and next the
volcano of Koma-ga-take, 22 m.;
also Nanae, Arikawa, etc., across
the bay. Likewise across the
bay to the W. Ues Moheji, a pretty
"village with a rivulet running
through it, and a lighthouse stand-
ing on a prominent rock, N.W. of
the Peak. Distant 28 m. is a
mountain called Nigorigawa-yama.
Behind Moheji, distant 13 m., is
Karasu-dake, while to the S.W.
rises Shiriuchi-dake, 22 m. The
high land on the other side of the
straits is plainly visible, with, on a
clear day, IwaM-san to the S.W.
of Aomori.

In the opposite direction, name-
ly, turning out of the main street
to the r., a walk or ride may be
taken past the gaol and barracks to
a fort called Goryo-kalcu. This dis-
used fort, erected in the latter days
of the Tokugawa regime, stands
about 4 m. from the town. The
moat affords excellent skating, the
ice being planed and swept. When
it is about 12 inches thick, it is cut
and exported to the soiathern ports.

ROUTE 80.

ExCTJESIONS FBOM HAKODATE.

1. YUNOKAWA. 2. THE LAKES. 3. AS-
CENT OF KOMA-GA-TAKE. 4. ESAN.
5. FUKUYAMA. 6. ESASHt.

1. — Ytjnokawa.

Distance, 1 ri 30 cho (4J m.) by
jinrikisha or tramway.

Yunokawa [Inns, Senshin-
kwan, Yosei-kwan) is a pleasant
place, owing to its pure sea air,
its hot springs, and the pretty
walks in the neighbourhood, es-
pecially one to Yunosaica, less than

1 ri inland. The large biiilding 1.,
about half-way between Hakodate
and Yunokawa, is a convict prison.
On the r., just before reaching
Yunokawa, Hes the race-course,
easily distinguished by the big
barn-like buildings attached to it.

2. — The Lakes.

Distance, 7 ri 5 cho (17 m.), pass-
ing through Nanae, which is 4 ri
from Hakodate.

The favourite holiday resort in
the neighbourhood of Hakodate is
that known to foreigners as the
Lakes. The two principal lakes
are named respectively Junsai-numa
(or Konuma) and Onurna. They
lie not far from the base of the
volcano of Koma-ga-take. Their
shores are covered with luxuriant
vegetation, while the islets furnish
objective points for those who may
wish to go out boating. The lake
fish can be taken with a worm, but
will not rise to the fly. Junsai-
numa contains prawns of a very
delicate flavour. This sheet of
water takes its name from a species
of lUy (Limnanthemum peltatum),
which is considered a delicacy and
brought in great quantities to
Hakodate. No place in Yezo affords
so good a field to the entomologist,
especially if lepidoptera be the
object of his search.

The Lakes may be reached on
horseback or by carnage. The
drive to Junsai-mvrn, where it is
best to stay, takes from 3| to 4 hrs.
The only halting-place worthy of
mention is Nanae, where an ex-
perimental farm has existed for
many years. Three mUes beyond
Nanae the ground rises, and pretty
glimpses of Hakodate Peak and the
mountains on the mainland are
occasionally obtained. At Junsai-
mura, there are two inns, both on
the 1. side of the road ; the semi-
European one, known by the sign
of Maru-san, is the better of the
two. Travellers, however, should
bring their own provisions.

532

Route 80- — Excursions from HakodcUe.

Primitive boats for .going out
on the lake, and equaUy primi-
tive fishing-gear, can be hired.
It is a 10 min. walk hence through
a pretty wood to the shores of
Lake Onunia.

3. — Ascent of Koma-ga-take.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to :— Ri Chb M.

Togeshita... 5 5 12|

Shikonoppe (a little

way on) — —

Yakeyama 3 18 8 J

Total 8 23 21

This is the mountain whose sharp
peak, 3,860 ft. (in reality only the
higher side of the crater wall),
forms so conspicuous an object
from Hakodate. It lies nearly due
N. of the town, and is reached by
the road mentioned in Excursion
2. The two trips should be com-
bined, the night being spent at
Junsai-mura. Accommodation of
an inferior kind may be procured
a Uttle further on, at Shikonoppe,
and also at Yakeyama at the very
base of the mountain. From Jun-
sai-mura the expedition can easily
be made in 6 hrs., including stop-
pages : and many will prefer to
make it at night, in order to wit-
ness sunrise from the summit. For
this purpose the carriage brought
from Hakodate should be kept, so
as to drive on as far as Yakeyama,
— } hr. of uninteresting road. Here
horses are mounted, which, toge-
ther with a guide, shoTild be sent
on ahead ; and 1 hr. ride through
a thick growth of underwood and
of grasses that overtop the riders'
heads, leads to the place where it
is necessary to dismount. It is
another hour's walk over sand and
volcanic detritus to the lip of the
crater, which commands a fine
view of Volcano Bay on the one
hand, and on the other of the
Lakes, behind which Hakodate Bay

and even the town and shipping can
be distinguished. To the 1. towers
the wall c>f rock, forming what looks
like a peak from most points of
view. The ascent of this, though
not impossible, has rarely been ai-
tempted. Traces of vegetation are
found up to the very summit. On
the way up there is a little platform,
said to be inaccessible, which sup-
ports three curiously shaped stones
popularly supposed to have been
once the abode of monkeys. Be-
neath and in front of the spectator
lies the crater. To the r. is seen
Yokotsu-dake, itself an old volcano,
whose height has been estimated
at 3,800 ft.

Inside the crater a certain degree
of activity is stiU displayed in
boiling pools ; and care must be
taken in treading on ail circles or
ridges of ground that rise slightly
above the general level, as they
are hoUow and apt to give way.
The descent to the place where
the horses are waiting occupies only
a few minutes.

The last eruption of Koma-^a-take took
place in 1856, when all the neighbour-
hood of the present hamlet of Yakeyama
(lit. '• burning mountain '" is said to have
been denuded of trees.

4. — The Volcano of Esan.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to:— Ri Chb M.

Shimo Yunokawa 1 30 4J

Oyasu 3 10 S'

Toi 2 20 6^

Shirikishinai 2 10 5^

Netanai 2 16 6"

Todohokke (foot

ofEsan) 1 32 4^-

Total 14 10 34|

This constantlv active volcano,
between 1,900 ft. and 2,000 ft. high,
is the first point of the island of
Yezo sighted on the voyage from
Yokohama. The journey thither
from Hakodate may be performed
on horseback in one day ; but it is

Esan. Futuyama. Emshi.

533

better to allow three days for the
whole exxiedition there and back.
If four are allowed, the following
pleasant round trip may be made :
— first to the Lakes and Koma-ga-
take, and thence to Kakumi on the
sea-shore, where arrangements
should be made for a boat to con-
vey the party next day along the
coast to Todohokke.

The bold coast affords striking
views, some waterfalls which leap
over rocky ledges into the sea being
especially beautiful. At Todohokke,
which affords accommodation of
the usual country type, a guide
should be procured to lead the
party up the mountain, whose
summit will be reached after an
hour's walk. The S. side of the
crater- wall, by which the ascent is
made, has been completely blown
away ; the floor seethes ^vith sol-
f ataras and springs of boiling water,
and constant subten-anean rum-
blings are heard.

V). — PUKUYAMA.

The quickest way to Fukuyama
is by steamer, which runs daily,
the passage occupying from G to
7 hrs. The land way, which can
be done on horseback in 2 days,
leads mostly along the shore as far
as Shiriuchi, after which there are
two passes, one on either side of
Fukushima. The following is the

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to:— Bi Cho M.

Kami-iso 3 4 7J

Moheji 2 15 6

Izumi-zawa 3 2 7^

Kikonai 1 34 4|

Shiriuchi 2 24 6|

Fukushima 7—17

Yoshioka '.... 19 3

FUKUYAMA 3 25 9

Total 25 5 61^-

Fukuyama, formerly called
Matsumae (/nn.Ueno), is situated on
the coast to the S.W. of Hakodate.

As long as the city was the residence of
the lords of Matsumae, almost all the
trade of Tezo passed through it, and the
few native travellers of those days were
obliged to come here to obtain pass-
ports before proceeding to other points.
But a fatal blow was dealt to its pros
perity by the destruction of property
which accompanied the civil war of 1869,
and by the retirement of the Daimyo to
Tokyo when the feudal system was soon
afterwards broken up. It has been fur-
ther injured by the growth of Hakodate;
for Fukuyama possesses no harbour,
merely an open roadstead. As usual in
provincial Japanese capitals, the castle
was built on an eminence overlooking the
town. All that now remains, besides the
three-storied tower, is a portion of the
apartments formerly occupied by the
Daimyo himself.

The greater part of the castle area
has been converted into a Public
Garden. Outside of this garden,
as well as of the former castle pre-
cincts, stftnds a cluster of Buddhist
temples, the remnant of a larger
number which existed up to 1869.
These were the finest temples in
Yezo ; but only two are now worth
visiting, viz. Kdzenji, belonging to
the Jodo sect, and Ryu-un-in, be-
longing to the Soto sect, which
latter has been the leading de-
nomination in this district. K6-
zenji, which was founded in 1533,
was the burial-place of the Dai-
myos' consorts, and is remarkably
handsome. In the court in front
of it stands a large stone image,
formerly the principal object of
worship in a temple now destroyed,
which was called after it /S'efcibw-
tsu-do, that is, " the Hall of the
Stone Buddha."

G. ^ESASHI.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to :— Ri Cho M.

Onomura 4 13 lOf

Nakayama 4 18 11

Uzura 4 18 11

Gamushi 2 18 6

ESASHI 3 20 8|

Total 19 15 47^

534 Route 81. — From Hakodate to Otaru, Sapporo, & Muroran.

The whole distance may be done
by basha in 1 day, when the road is
in good repair.

Starting from Hakodate and pass-
ing through Kameda, the traveller
turns oif 1. to Onomura, and thence
gradually ascends for a distance
of 4 ri till the top of the pass
is gained. From the summit a
good vie-w of Tengu-take, marked
by three fir-trees, is obtained, and
the ride to the yUI. of Uzura may
be accounted one of the prettiest
in Yezo. The road winds in and
out between steep cliffs above a
foaming river, while the bold rocks
and mountains recall the scenery of
British Columbia. From Uzura a
path diverges to the 1. across a river
to the vill. of Tate, 2\ ri distant,
formerly a country seat of the Dai-
my5 of Matsumae, bi;t dismantled
in the rebelhon of 1868, only por-
tions of the wall being now visible.
The land in this district is among
the most fertile in Yezo.

Esashi [Inns, IVIinami-ya, Kakui)
is an old-fashioned town of 14,000
inhabitants, with a harbour un-
fortunately too much exposed. It
nevertheless shares in the new
prosperity of all this part of Yezo.
High chflEs behind a Buddhist tem-
ple here command a tine view.

ROUTE 81.

Feom Hakodate to Otaeu, Sapporo,
AND Mtjkoean. Volcano Bay.

VOYAGE to otaru. [YOICHI AND
IWANAI ; ACROSS COtTNTKY TO
OSHAMAMBE.] SAPPORO AND NEIGH-
BOURHOOD. RAIL TO MURORAN.
VOLCANO BAY.

This trip includes some of the
best portions of Yezo, and will show
the traveller, within the limits of a
week or 10 days, as fair a speci-

men of the island — its scenery,
modern improvements, and abori-
ginal Ainos — as it is possible to
compress within so short a time.

Good steamers leave Hakodate
for Otaru ewety two or three days,
the passage occupying 20 hrs. in
fine weather. While passing through
the Tsugaru Straits, where the
main cun-ent always runs towards
the E., the steamer hugs the cliflE-
bound coast of Southern Yezo.
Four hrs. from Hakodate it passes
the castle-town of Fukuyama, (see
p. 535). Ahead are seen the vol-
canic islands of Oshima and
Kojima, and to the S., on the main-
land of Japan, Irmki-san, often
called the Tsugaru Fuji from its
beautiful logarithmic curvature. If
the steamer leaves Hakodate at
2 P.M. (the usual sailing hour), she
will sight the island of Okushiri
before nightfall, and by morning,
v,ill have passed Sail Bock and.
the shrine on the clifE to which
junks make obeisance by lowering
their sails, and will have rounded
the high cliffs of tJiakotan. From
this point it is 28 m. to

Otaru, properly Otarunai [Inns,
Etchu-ya, Kito ; Europ. restt., Seiyo-
kwan). This Aino name means
"the stream [nai) of the sandy [oia)
road [ru)." The town is now, how-
ever, entirely Japanese. Next to
Hakodate it is the largest and most
bustling place on the coast, the
chief industry of its inhabitants
being hemng-tishing. A fine break-
water is in coiarse of construction.
The sole remaining evidences of the
former Aino occupation of the place
are flint implements and fragments
of pottery imbedded in the soil, and
possibly some scribbUng on a rock
in a suburb called Temiya.

This rock has terribly perplexed the
learnetl. To begin with, are the inscrip-
tions really inscriptions at all? If so, are
they of Aiuo origin — but then it is almost
certain that the Ainos never knew aught
of writing? Or are they not rather
cognate to "Bill Stumps his mark?" A
few years ago the authorities caused a
shed to be erected over the rock in ques-

Souih- West Goasf. Sapporo.

535

tion, but not till the weather had exer-
ciBed 80 disintegrating an influence on it
that there is now little left to argue about.

[There is a fair road fi-oni Otaru
W. along the coast to Yoichi,
5 ri 20 cho (better stop at the
Kanemata inn at Okawa, 10 cho
short of the main Yill.) ; or one
may ayail of steamer leaving
Otaru twice daily. A road also
leads hence across the neck of
the peninsula to Iwanai [Inn,
Igeta), 11 ri 30 cho, on to
Suttsu, 11 ri, and right
round the S.W. coast of the
island to Hakodate, chmbing
several steep passes and afford-
ing many fine views, especially
between Setanai and Esashi.
The way as far as Suttsu is,
■with the exception of the noted
Haiden-toge between Iwanai
and Suttsu, practicable for
hasha. Snow often hes more
than 20 ft. deep on this pass.

The road onward from Sut-
tsu to Setanai, a tlistance of
about 12 ri of alternate moun-
tain and shore, is so rough that
travellers generally prefer to go
round by Osham'nnhe on Vol-
cano Bay (see Itinerary for
road hence into Hakodate on
pp. 537-8), and strike off to the
West coast again from a place
called Kunnui, 2 ri from Osha-
mambe. The most beautiful
object on the road is the
isolated cone of Shirihetsxi-
dake.

From Setanai to Esashi there
is a good road via Kudo, Kuma-
ishi, and Otobe over the steep
passes mentioned above. The
distance, which exceeds 20 ri
(say 50 m.), takes 2 days on
horseback. Instead of conti-
nuing round the coast to Fiiku-
yama and Hakodate, an alter-
native plan is to leave it at
Esashi (see j^receding page),
where the road leading due E.
across the peninsula takes one
into Hakodate by baaha in 1
day.]

EaILWAY ScHEDUIiE.

Names

«-i _ 3

a e ~

So:B

Remarks

.2<£:o

Stations

OTARU (Temiya)

l|iu.

Sumiyoshi

Asari

10!

Zenibako

l-""'!

Karugawa

Kotoni

•2-2

SAPPORO

•28J-

Atsubetsu

:i3

Nopporo

;?5

Ebetsu

40;

Horomui

Branches to
Shibe t su

471

Iwamizawa Jet, .

J (Kamikawa),
) Poronai.and
I k n s h u m-
\ betau.

Kiyomaf u

Or Hayakita.

58 {

Kuriyama

fil'

Yuni

Mikawa

Oiwake Jet

( Branch to
( Yiibari.

78'

Hayaku

Tomakomai

100'

Shiraoi

1 13 !

Shikioi

118'

Noboribetsu (T6-
betsu)

122 »

Horobetsu

130,'

Wanishi

133|

MURORAN

The railway journey fi-om Otaru
to Sapporo occupies IJ hr. The
rolhng stock is American, and the
line is said to have been built more
cheaply th;in any other in the
world. The scenery is pretty for
the first few miles, the railway
being hemmed in between bold
cliffs and the sea. The plain sur-
rounding the mouth of the river
Ishikari is then crossed, and the
rest of the way runs over flat,
marshy country, covered with trees
and tall rank weeds, to

Sapporo (Hotel, H5hei-kwan,
originally intended for an Imperial
residence ; only the four rooms on
the lower floor are genersxlly avail-
able, but European visitors may
obtain permission to occupy the

536 Route SI.— From Hakodate to Otaru, Sapporo, & Murovan.

upper storey ; Japanese Inns,
*Yamagata-ya, Asahi-kwan).

This, the capital of the island, did not
grow up naturally like Matsumae in old
times and Hakodate in more recent days,
in obedience to the requirements of trade.
It was created by official fiat in the year
1870, and depends for its prosperity chief-
ly on the puMi<' institutions established
there, notably on the Agricultural College
which is the last remnant of the Kai-
takushi, or Colonisation Commission,
and on the garrison. The salmon and
trout fishing for which Sapporo was for-
merly noted, has been spoilt by the
establishment of mills. Few, if any
Ainos, are now to be seen in the neigh-
bourhood .

The jM^seMm, standing in gi-onnds
tliat resemble an English park, con-
tains specimens of Aino work, stone
implements, and ornithological and
other collections. Adjacent to the
musenm is a botanical garden.
There are also saw-mills and flour-
mills, hemp and flax factories, and
a brewery, besides small theatres
and various other places of amuse-
ment. Sapporo Beer enjoys much
favour all over the North.

The best walks near Sapporo
are to the Nakajima Vuenchi, or
park, to the horse-breeding farm of
Makomanai, and to the Mat^yama
Park.

The best longer excursions
are : —

1. On foot or by jiniiMsha to
Kariki, distant about 1 ri. There
take a dug-out canoe, and drift
down to Ebetsu, spinning or fly-
fishing on the way. Return in the
afternoon by train.

2. By train to Poroivii, to see
the coal-mines and the convict
prison. The convicts are employed
in the mines.

3. On horseback or by basha
pist tlie Makomanai horse-farm,
and through Ishiyama to Joznnkei
(Inn, *Sat6), on the river Toyohira,
where there are hot springs and
good fishing. Distance, 7 ri 10 did.

4. To the viU. of Chiiose, 10 ri
by horse or basha, whence to Ijake
Sbikotsu, 6 ri on horseback only.
There is a beautiful waterfall on

the way, unfortunately half-hid-
den by dense vegetation.

Shikfltsii is a crater lake, from 20 to 30
m. in circumference, noted for its weird,
subaqueous formation of fissured and'
pinnacled rocks, which can be distinctly
discerned in the clear water. A ridge, ris-
ing vei-y steeply for 500 ft. forms the lip
of the old crater, and on this lip at several
points are cones, some of which are still
active, attaining a height of from 2,000 to
3,000 ft. above the level of the lake.

Very rough accommodation and
Aino boats for fishing are procur-
able. About half-way between the
lake and Chitose is a salmon-breed-
ing establishment (Fiikaju), from
which Ebetsu station may be reach-
ed in Aino boats, — a journey varied
by rapids, marshes, and high banks
fringed by the virgin forest. Game
is plentiful. The distance from
Chitose is 45 m.; and under favour-
able circumstances, with three men
to pole in sluggish water, may be
covered in 9 hrs. — Chitose can also
be approached from either Hayaku
station, whence 4 J ri, or from
Tomakoinai station, 7 ri.

Leaving Sapporo, the railway
first runs E. through forest land
pai-tially cleared, and crosses the
Yiibari-gawa at Ebetsu.

Iwami-zawa (Inn, Zeni-jiruslai)
is a growing place, which steadily
increases in importance.

[Here a branch line rims N. to
Shibetsu in the district of Kami-
kawa in the province of Teshio,
!t5 miles. Tliose wishing to see
something of Yezo in its abo-
riginal state may cross the
island from Kamikawa to Aba-
.shiri on the N. E. coast, — a 4
days' journey on horseback
through the forest. The paUi
is fair, and there are shelters
to spend the night in. A fine
pass has to be crossetl on the
way.]
The line now bends south
through dense forest, which contin-
ues the whole way to the coast^
shutting out aU view.

Oiwake to Muroran. Volcano Bay.

537

Oiwake {Inn, Shimbo).
[The branch Une from this jjlace
to the Yubari Collieries, 26J
m., follows the windings of the
Yubari-gawa, which is lined by
maple-trees, and affords pretty
glimpses of waterfalls].
Tomakomai {Inns, Inouye at
station. Mizushima in the town) lies
some distance from the railway.
[A3 or 4 days' excurison may
be made hence to Piratori,
the largest settlement of the
southern Ainos. The wa> leads
9 ri along the coast to 8aru-
fuio, whence 4 ri up the river
Saru. The town — if such it can
be called -stands in a lonely
dell, surrounded at a distance
by green hills of moderate
height, and is divided into two
parts, an upper and a lower,
each containing some iifty
straw huts. These line one side
of the path in single file, the
family store-houses standing
opposite, raised on four posts
from the damp. All purely
Aino Tillages follow the same
pattern. A good Japanese inn
was recently opened at Piratori
by one named Wada ; but
whether it Mill continue is
uncertain.' Those who venture
to accejit Aino hospitality, must
make up their minds for en-
counters with vermin of various
sorts.

Another expedition from To-
makomai is to Niikappu, where
is situated the largest horse
breeding establishment in
Yezo, 2| days distant on horse-
back. Horses should be order-
ed beforehand from the inn.]
The eye wearied with the mono-
tony of the forest now welcomes
the sight of the Pacitic Ocean beat-
ing in breakers on the coast ; and
in early siimmer the wealth of
lilies of the valley and other \vild-
flowers is astonishing. From here
on to the end of the journey,
Ainos and their huts may occasion-
ally be seen, especially at Shiraoi.

Nobori-betsu station (Inn,
Maruichi) lies \ hr. from the vill.;
but the proper place to stay at is
Nohori-betsu Onsen {Inn, *Mui'uichi),
2 ri up in the interior, — a very
curious locality sitxiated in a wide
hollow above a toiTent of boiling
water. A mile further, and reached
by a narrow wooded valley, are the
solfataras, which present a weird
spectacle of continuous volcanic ac-
tivity, and resound with detonations
whose rumblings reach the spa
below.

Horobetsu {Inn, Suzuld) is a
mixed Japanese and Aino village,
the centre for many years of the
Christianising and civilising en-
deavours of the Rev. John Bat-
chelor, of the Chiarch Missionary
Society.

Muroran (Inns, Maruichi, Ma-
rui) is finely situated on a land-
locked bay, but shut out from
all view of the neighbouring volca-
noes. It is noted for a large sea-
shell— the hotate-cjai, or Peri en
yessoensis. There is an Aino vill.
1 ri 20 cho fiom the town.

Steamers leave Muroran daily for
Hakotlate and Aomori, taking H hrs.
to the former, and 6 hrs. more to
the latter port.

Some might prefer to take the
coast road round the head of beau-
tiful Volcano Bay, — a secluded
region in which several .Vino
villages exist. A detour to Lake
Usu, either from Abut a or from
Mombetsu, will be repaid bv magni-
ficent scenery. The road is fairly
good, and there is tolerable accom-
modation on the way.

The Itinerary round the Bay and
on to Hakodate is as follows : —
MOMBETSU to:— Ei CJir, M.

Usu 2 25 6^

Abixta 1 19 3^

Rebunge 4 4 10

Shittsukari 5 l(j 13\

Oshamambe 1 12 sj

Kuroiwa 5 3 12^

Yamakiishinai ... 4 22 ll|
Otoshibe 2 21 6^

538

Route 82. — The South-Ead Coast.

Ishikura 2 11 5^

Mori 1 27 4^

HAKODATE 11 18 28

Total 44 34 104^

Communication between Jluro-
ran and Mori is kept up irregularly
by small steamers, which collect
cargo from various places on Vol-
cano Bay.

Travellers returning overland to
Hakodate from Muroran should do
the first stage by the steamer that
runs to Mombetsii. The stages
thence are Abuta, Oshamambe,
Yakubo, and Mori ; but as the ac-
commodation at Yakubo is poor,
one should try to push on to Mori
in a single day. Horses should
be engaged at Mombetsu; but
although this is a much larger
place than any other on the road,
there is nothing to be seen, and
it is advisable to push on to
Ahuta, a mixed Japanese and Aino
village with passable accommoda-
tion. Between Ahuta and Shittsu-
kari three steep hills have to be
crossed, and the well-graded road
which existed for a few years has
dwindled through landshps to a
mere horse track, and is imiwactic-
able for any kind of vehicle. At
Oshamambe one may usually find
basha. Hence to Yakuho, 2Iori
(Lm, Yamaka), and most of the
way in to Hakodate, is on the dead
level through heavy sand.

ROUTE 82.

The South-East Coast and the
Southern Kueiles.

During the summer and autumn,
the Nippon Yiisen Kwaisha runs
steamers up the S.E. Coast of Yezo,
and there are also steamers be-
longing to smaller companies. Oc-

casional steam communication is
kept up with Kunashiri and Iterup.
Those who prefer to go up the
coast by land can do so on horse-
back ; but they are warned that
there is little to compensate for
the hardships on the way. In
many places it is a scramble over
rocks by the sea-shore, and at
others over steep hills. There are
also six or seven large rivers to
cross, which after rain are often
impassable for several days. From
Tomakomai, on the railway, to
Nemuro is a distance of 74 ri, or
180 m. The chief places visited,
whether the journey be made by
land or by sea, are the ports of
Kushiro, Akkeshi, and Nemuro.

Kushiro (In7i, Kanekichi), at
the mouth of the Kusuri-gawa, is
a busy place ^^ith good shops, and
has been made a " Special Port of
Export " for coal and sulphur.
Fine views are here obtained of
0-Akan and Me-Akan, two high
mountains to the N. A railway is
in course of construction south-
wards along the coast.

At no other place in Yezo are so many
relics of the stone age to be found as at
Kushiro. The hills in the neighbourhood
are covered with hundreds of dwellings,
which are attributed by some inves-
tigators to the Knropok-guru, a race be-
lieved by them to have inhabited Yezo
before the Ainos. Several camps — or
what have been considered such — are
seen on the crests of the hills, as also two
or three well-formed earthen forts, one
called Moshiriya near the river, and the
others at Lake Harutori, about 2 m. from
the town, where likewise stands a modern
Aiuo village.

Akkeshi {Inns, Oizumi-kwan,
Chagenji) is noted for its oysters,
there being whole reefs entirely
composed of these molluscs. An
oyster-tinning establishment on
the American plan has existed here
for many yeai-s past. Akkeshi hjxs
an outer and an inner bay. the
former for steamers and large craft,
the latter, which is some Idm. in
circumference, for smaller vessels.

The coast between .\kkeshi and
Nemuro is remarkable for the per-

The Kurile Inlands.

539

sistently tabular aspect of the main-
land and of the islands near it. Of
the latter, the chief are ; 1. Yururi,
r. Takashima and Ko-Takashima,
mere low ledges of rock, in spite of
their names which signify " Lofty
Island," and "Small Lofty Island."
The high far-off mountains to the
1. are Me-Akan, 0-Akan, the snow-
sprinkled ranges of Menashi-yama
and 0-Menashi-yama, and ahead
Eausu-zan and Chacha-nobori in
the island of Kunashiri.

Nemuro [Inns, Yamagata, Suzu-
ki) is a thriving town, and pos-
sesses an agricultural college and
a public garden, whence the dis-
tant mountains of Kunashiri can
be seen to the r. The harbour is
good, but freezes over completely
in winter, the ice extending as far
as the eye can reach.

The Kurile Islands.

The Kuriles ,

of which Kunashiri and Iterui) are the
two southernmost, derive their name
from the Russian word kurity, " to
smoke," in allusion to the numerous
volcanoes which they contain, and
stretch N.E. and S.W. all the way from
Yezo to Kamchatka. The Japanese
name is Chhhimn, or " the Thousand
Isles." Originally inhabited by a shiftiug
poijulation of Ainos aud perhaps men of
some other native race, the Kuriles at-
tracted the cupidity of the Cossacks who
conquered Kamchatka at the end of the
17th century. At that time the islands
swarmed with fur bearin>,' anioials, now
ruthlessly hunted to the verge of extinc-
tion. Gradually the whole group passed
under Russian sway, though the Govern-
ment of Yedo always asserted its right to
the southernmost portion of the chain.
At la.st, by the treaty of St. Petersburg,
concluded in 1875, the Kuriles were for-
mally ceded by Russian to Japan, in ex-
change for the far more valuable territory
of southern Saghalien, which till then
had been claimed as a -Japanese posses-
sion.
The China Sea Directory says : —
" The fog in which these islands are
constantly enveloped, the violent currents
experienced in all the channels separat-
ing them, the steepness of their coasts,
and the impossibility of anchoring, are
such formidable obstacles, that it tries
to the utmost the patience and per-
severance of the mariner to acijuire much

knowledge respecting them. Making the
Kurile Islands from the westward during
a dense fog, it frequently happens that
the clear sky overhead allows of the sum-
mits of some of the islands being seen
over the fog. Such a glimpse to a strang-
er would have more the appearance of
blue sky with a few light clouds (cirri)
instead of a high mountain streaked with
snow. The vicinity of land in the neigh-
bourhood of the Kurile Islands may
frequently be known by the flocks of
birds * * * Seaweed is also met with
in straggling patches like the ordinary
gulf-weed, growing thicker by degrees
till near the land it resembles a large
field of very thick and strong weed.
This weed entirely surrounds all the
islands ; and in collecting it, it has to
be cut with a scythe."

From Notsu-no-saki, the head-
land stretching N.W. of Nemuro,
to Tomari, the nearest port in
Kunashiri, is a distance of 3 ri.
From Nemuro it takes some 5 hrs.
to reach the hamlet of Eausu,
prettily situated on the sea-shore,
3\ m. to the E. of the solfataras, to
work which is the object of having
an establishment in this place.
This part of the island is thickly
wooded with conifers of various
species, while ferns and tioweiing
plants form the undergrowth. Bears
abound. From a clearing in the
forest we get a beautiful glimpse of
the singularly shaped Chacha-nobori
(7,900 ft.), a cone within a cone, the
inner and higher of the two being —
so the natives say — surrounded by
a lake, while away to the N.E. the
sulphur is seen boUing up at four
distinct spots on the tiank of
Rausu-zan. There are also several
hot springs and a hot stream. One
of these sj)rings bubbles iip on the
beach, near the little settlement.
At Ichibishinai, on the W. coast of
the island, is a boiUng lake called
Ponto, which deposits on its bed
and around its shores what appeal's
to be fine black sand, but is
practically nearly pure sulphur.
The water of the lake has an ex-
tremely acid flavoui".

The chief port of Iterup, called
Staten Island by the old Dutch
ctirtographers, is Shana, on the N.

^AO Route 83. — From Kvshiro to Ahashiri and Northern Yezo.

side. A road leads from Shana to
another town at the N.E. extremity,
abont G5 m. distant, and there is
also a road in the opposite direction
for 50 m. Horses can be obtained
for the grea.ter part of these
journeys. The interior of Itenip is
all dense forest, -which can only be
penetrated by following up the
water-courses. The streams are
alive with salmon from August to
December, and bears are plentiful.

In 1892, Lieut. Gun.ii, of the .Japanese
Navy, with a few followers, set sail in
open boats from Tokyo to e.stablish a
colony un the uninhabited island of
Shuiiishu, the northernmost of the Ku-
riles. ouly 8 miles from Kamchatka.
After much snfl'ering and loss of men
;ind boats on the way, a remnant of the
party reached Iternp, where they stiU
eke out a livelihood by fishing and
hunting.

ROUTE 83.

FiioM KusHiRO TO Abashiki and
Northern Yezo.

Itinerary (approximate).

KUSHmO to :— Ri M.

Toro 7 17

Shibetcha 6 14f

Iwo-san 10 24^

Yamabetsu ■ — —

Abashiri 19 46^

Total 42 102^

A road running by the side of
the river has been made from
Knshiro to Shibetcha ; but if the
traveller prefer, he can take jkis-
sage in the steam launch which
leaves daily. There is a fine lake,
<j ri in circumference, near Toro
(Inn by Matsumoto), a village con-
sisting of two or three Japanese
houses and some twenty Aino huts.
At Shibetcha {Inns, Daihei, Yokota),
there is a lai^e convict settlement,

also a steam factory for refining
sulphur. Good salmon and sal-
mon-trout fishing may be had here
from July to October. A railway
24 m. long connects Shibetcha
■with the volcano of Atosa-nohori,
or Iwo-san, that is. Sulphur Moun-
tain {Inn at station). It is intended
for the transport of sulphur from
the mountain, but passengers also
may get a lift.

[Not following the railway track,
but turning aside for a dis-
tance of 7 ri, one may
reach the hot springs of
Xeishikaqa (fair accommoda-
tion). Four ri further on is
another lake, called Kucharo,
12 ri in circumference, with
some islands containing hot
springs. The lake is deep and
clear, and affords good fish-
ing.]
Splendid views are here obtained
of 0-Akan, Me-Akan, and the sur-
rounding country. The sulphur is
of first-rate quality, and is export-
ed in large quantities to America.
From Iwo-san, the traveller de-
scends to Yamahets-a on the sea-
shore. There being no accommo-
dation here, it is best to hurry on
to

Abashiri (Inn, Ishiyama).
Traces of the ancient pit-tlwellers
can be seen on the hills.

One may return from Aba.shiri to
Nemuro, via Sliari and ShUjefsu, by
crossing the neck of the moun-
tainous peninsula, — a tlistance of
about 96 m. ; but the accommo-
dation, except at Shibetsu and
Betsukai, is wretched, none of the
places passed through affording
better accommodation than Aino
hilts.

Those desirous of exploring the
N.E. coast of I'^ezo can do so by
turning to the 1. at Abashiri,
whence a road leads the whole way
to Soya — a distance of 71 ri (173
m.), near the N. extremity of
the island. This journey, how-
ever, is monotonous in the ex-
treme.

8ECT10N IX.

LUCHU AND FORMOSA.

(koutes 84 — 8^,

Route, 84. — Luchu.

54a

ROUTE 84.

LUCHTJ.*

The Iiuchu Islands, which are
inhabited by a race closely allied to
the Japanese, and which now form
an integral part of the Japanese
dominions, are connected with the
outer world by three lines of steam-
ers from Kagoshima. The best are
those of the Nippon Yusen Kwai-
sha, which sail evei-y IS days. They
start from Kobe and take 2 days to
Kagoshima, whence 1 day to
Amami-Oshima, and 1 day more to
Great Luchu ( Okmaica). Inchiding
stoppages, the voyage occupies al-
together 6 days. The boat general-
ly remains a couple of days at Nafa,
before returning the way she came.
Communication with the outlying
Miyako-jima and Yaeyama groups
is less frequent and regular. No
European food is supplied on board
the steamers.

The royal family of Luchu derived its
origin from the semi-mythical Japanese
hero Tametomo (see p. 166), who is said
to have allied himself with the daughter
of a native chieftain, and to have over-
thrown the previously ruling house. In
the 15th century the Ming dynasty of
China laid claims to the archipelago, and
at the beginning of the 17th century it
was conquered by the Japanese under the
Daimyo of Satsuma, whoxieimanently an-
nexed Amami-Oshima to his feudal do-
mains, but left Great Luchu to a semi-
independence. The Luchuans continued
to pay tribute both to China and to Japan
till the year 1879, when the king was
brought captive to Tokyo, and the govern-
ment re-organised as a Japanese prefec-
ture under the name of Okinawn Ken. The
name Luchu is pronounced Ryukyu by
the Japanese, Duchii by the Luchuans
themselves. To the double allegiance
so long acknowledged by this little island
realm, may be traced the mixture of
Japanese and Chinese peculiarities in the
manners and customs of its inhabitants.
The language, though cognate to Japanese,
is sufficiently distinct from it to render
natives of the two countries mutually
unintelligible. Japanese, however, is the
lingua franca of the ports.

*For a fuUer description of these
islands and their inhabitants, see the
Journal of the Koyal Geographical Society
for April, May, and June, 1895.

There is a decent Iny% (Ikebata) at
Naze, the little port of Oshima^
and two (Ikebata and Asada) at
Nafa, the chief port of the island
of Okinawa, and the most flourish-
ing and interesting place in the
whole archipelago. Here it is the
fashion to supplement the Japa-
nese fare by beef and pork. No-
where else in the islands can even
Japanese food be coiinted on, as
the Luchuans subsist almost ex-
clusively on sweet potatoes and on
a kind of sago obtained from the
pith of the Oycas revohita, a small
tree resembling the sago-palm,
which grows in immense quantities.

As there are scarcely any roads in
the island, most journeys have to
be accomplished either in palan-
quin or on the backs of the diminu-
tive but hardy Luchuan ponies.
There is, however, an excellent jin-
riMsha road of 1 ri 11 cho (3^ m.)
from Nafa to Shuri, the capital of
the former Luchuan kings, whose
castle, now held by a Japanese
garrison, occupies a grand position
on the top of the highest of those
many coral crags that form so
striking a feature of the landscape
throughout Southern Okinawa.
The constant outcrop of coral on
the surface of the soil renders
walking very arduous. Winter is
the best season for visiting Luchu,
the thermometer then ranging from
55° to 60° Fahrenheit, whereas in
stimmer it stands at and over 90°
both day and night. The climate
is nevertheless healthy, owing to
the frequent sea-breezes.

The traveller with a couple of
days to spend while his steamer lies
loading sugar or other island pro-
duce, cannot do better than devote
one of them to seeing Nafa and
Shuri (special permit from prefec-
ture necessary for interior of Castle, ,
but scarcely worth the trouble), and
the second to an expedition on
horseback to a place called Fu-
temma, 4 or 5 ri distant, where
there is a cave with stalactites,
containing a shrine dedicated to the

544

Route 85. — Frn-raoao.

goddess Kwannon. The innkeeper
will borrow a Etiropean saddle for
the occasion. One can thus gain a
fairly good idea of scenery which is
at once pretty and original. Kakazu
JSania, 2 ri from Nafa on horseback,
is said to be a pretty spot. — The
Lirge, white, horseshoe - shaped
structures that lie scattered broad-
cast over the face of the land are
family vaults, wherein the bones *of
many generations are deposited in
urns, after having been picked and
washed.

As there is nothing to see in
Amami-Oshima, a stay at Naze
is not recommended. The outlying
islands (Sakisfdma) of the Luchuan
archipelago, stretching in tlie direc-
tion of Formosa, are similarly
uninteresting, except to the speci-
alist ; and even a brief visit to the
Yaeyama gioup {Ishvjaki-ji'ma and
Iriomote) is perilous, on account
of the dreadful malaria which
prevails there at all seasons.

The Luchu Lslands produce some
special fabrics which are much
esteemed by the Japanese. These
are the Ryukyu-tsnimugi (silk), the
8atsuma-<jafmri (cotton), the bashb-
fu or aka-basho, made of the fibre
of a tree closely alUed to the
banana, and especially the hoso-
jofu (hemp). This latter comes
from Miyako-jima, where the
weaving and dyeing of a single
piece (it-tnn = ^^ yds.) occupies as
long as six months. Consequently
only small quantities are manufac-
tured, and prices are high, — from
10 yen, to 30 yen a piece. The
Satsuma-yasuri, as its name serves
to indicate, is often erroneously
mistaken for a specialty of the
province of Satsuma, whereas the
stiiflE there fabricated is biit an
imitation of a Luchuan original
(see p. 485).

ROUTE 85.

Formosa.

1. gkneeal infoemation. 2. ke-
lung, taihoktj, and tamsui.

3. by steamee eound the coast.

4. mount moerison and mount

STL VIA.

1. — G-ENEEAb InFOBMATION.

Formosa, called Taiwan by the
Chinese and Japanese, is an island
225 miles long by 60 to 80 miles
broad, being roughly about half
the size of Ireland, and lying be-
tween 20° 56' and 25° 15' North
latitude, and 120° and 122° East
longitude. The western coast is a
low, alluvial plain, some 20 miles
broad at its widest, settled by
Chinese colonists, most of them
from the neighbouring province of
Fohkien, called Hoklos, the rest
Hakkas from the province of Can-
ton. The remainder of the country
is mountainous, with the exception
of the rich plain of Giran on the
east coast and some highly fertile
valleys in the neighbourhood of
Kv/arenko and Pinan. It is cloth-
ed with virgin forest, and scantily
peopled by savage aborigines of
Malay race, speaking many dialects
mutually \inintelligible, and often
engaged in internecine strife.
Some tribes are ardent hunters,
others less so, except it be for
Chinamen's heads, as each young
man — at any rate in the northern
distiicts — is bound by custom to
produce such a bloody trophy
before he can marry. All occupy
themselves with the cultivation of
rice, maize, yams, and other vege-
tables. Along the border, between
the savages and the Chinese, live
the Pepohoan (Jap. Jikoban), or
semi-civilised natives, who combine
to some extent the customs of
each. On a large portion of the
east coast, the mountains rise sheer
from the sea, range above range, to

Genei'al Information.

545

a height of 7,000 ft., forming the
highest cliffs in the world.

The most valuable productions
of Formosa are rice and sugar
cultivated in the plains, tea in the
north, and camphor which is
obtained from the giant camphor-
laurels that grow in the forests of
the north and centre. The banyan,
the screw-pine, the areca palm, the
banana, and the pine-apple charac-
terise the plains. The mineral
wealth of the island has not yet
been systematically exploited ; but
coal, srdphur, and petroleum have
been worked to a limited extent,
and gold is known to exist.

The cJimaic is hot, wet, and
extremely malarious during the
greater part of the year. The driest
and best months in the north are
October, November, and the first
half of December ; in the south,
December to March. The typhoons,
for which these regions are
notorious, are less to be feared in
Formosa itself than on the adjacent
seas, as most of them, deflected by
the lofty mountain mass, either
pass up through the Formosa
Channel, or else sweep to the N.E.
over the islands of Botel Tobago
and Samasana.

The island seems to have been discover-
ed about the beginning of the seventh
century by the Chinese, who, however,
did not permanently settle the western
coast till eight or nine hundred years
later. The first Europeans to sight it
were the Portuguese, who bestowed on
it the name ot Fonaosa, that is, ' ' the
Beautiful," which has remained in general
use ever since. The Dutch, the Spaniards,
the English, and the Japanese all gained
a temporary footing on the island in the
seventeenth century. The most remark-
able of the many adventurers in this
remote corner ot the Eastern seas was
Koxinga (Kokusen-ya), the son of a Chinese
Ijirate by a Japanese mother. He drove
out the Europeans, and established a
dynasty which lasted from 1662 to 1683,
when it was subdued by the Manchu in-
vaders who had recently seated them-
selves on the throne of Peking ; and thus,
for over two hundred years, Formosa was
incorporated in the Chinese empire .

The Japanese made a descent on the
island in 1874, in order to punish the
savages for the murder of some ship-

wrecked Luchuan fishermen, — an astute
stroke of policy which helped to substan-
tiate the hitherto doubtful claim of Japan
to the archipelago of Iiuchu. Formosa
was ceded to Jaiiau in 189.5, at the conclu-
sion of her victorious war with China.
The Japanese administrative system has
been introduced, though not as yet with
much success. The island is at present
divided into three prefectures, called res-
pectively Taihoku, Taichu, and Tainan,
that is. Northern, Central, and Southern
Formosa. Those desirous of more par-
ticular details concerning the history of
Japans new dependency are recommend-
ed to peruse Dr. L. Kiess's " Geschichte der
Iii^fl For now," published as Part 59 of
the *' Mittheilungen der De.utsche:n Gesell-
schaft fur Natur- und Vdikerlunde Ost-
asieiis." A volume by J. W. Davidson,
entitled The Island of Formosa Past and
Present, is in preparation. There also
exist works by Kev. Dr. Q. Mackay and
Rev. J. Johnston, giving much informa-
tion relative to missions and to the
manners and customs of the natives.

A collection of weapons, ornaments,
and wearing apparel of the head-hunting
tribes and other aborigines of Formosa,
may be seen at the Imperial Museum,
Tokyo.

Formosa is still (1900) in a very
unsettled state, owing to frequent
risings of the Chinese. Govern-
ment officials themselves have to
be guarded by an escort ; and
foreigners, even if willing to take
the risk, are not as a rule allowed
to penetrate into the interior.
Thus practically only the capital,
Taihoku (Chin. Taipeh) and the
larger ports are accessible.

Should the conditions of travel
improve, the visitor ought to take
with him a light camp bed, sheet
blanket, pillow, and mosquito net,
all to roll up into a waterproof
case. Many of the Japanese rest-
houses in the rougher parts have
only an earthen floor, with a strip
of matting on a raised wootien
bench.

Passports, though obsolete in
Japan pvopej', are still requii-ed for
Formosa. According to circum-
stances, local passports are is-
sued by the resident Japanese
authorities, on application through
the foreign consuls. When the
civilising efforts of the government
shall have restored order and open-

546

Route 85. — Formosa.

ed up roads and railways, there can
be no doubt that the scientific tra-
veller will find in this little explor-
ed island on ample field of research.
The accommodation, too, will then
become more passable. At present,
cleanly Japanese inns exist only
in the capital and the ports, and
Japanese accommodation of sorts
along the railway and tramway
lines. Elsewhere such accommo-
dation as exists is Chinese, con-
sequently filthy.

There is no trouble from in-
surgents or savages in the Pes-
cadores. The best aeai^on for visit-
ing that archipelago is April and
May ; but the bare, low, wind-swept
surface and the Chinese population
of fisher-folk offer little interest.

The population of Formosa, when
the first census was taken at the
end of 1897, was 2,745,000, exclusive
of the aborigines, who are believed
to number not more than 100,000
altogether. The Pescadores con-
tain 52,000.

Steam communication is carried
on principally by the Nippon Yu-
sen Kwaisha (Japan_ Steamship
Company) and the Osaka Shosen
Kwaisha, — Kobe being the usual
starting-point. The passage from
Kobe to Kelung via Moji takes 4^
days ; if various ports in Japan and
the Luchu Islands are touched at,
6 or 7 days. There is also steam
communication between the For-
mosan ports of Tamsui and Anping
and the ports of Amoy, Foochow,
Swatow, and Hongkong. A regular
service of steamers has been es-
tablished right round the coast of
the island, and also up and down
the western coast, including the
Pescadores; but it has been observed
that the steamers have an unpleas-
ant way of starting at night, and of
passing the most picturesque spots
also during the night.

A railway, as indicated below,
connects Taihoku with Kelung, the
chief port. A much longer one,
already completed as far as Shin-
chiku. will traverse the island from

north to south, connecting Taihoku
with Tainan. Indeed, there already
exists a narrow-gauge tramway, —
open trucks furnished with seats
and pushed by men, — which might
be availed of ; but the country
traversed, with the exception of a
few low hills near Byoritsu, is for
the most part flat and dull.

2. — Kelung, Taihoku, and
Tamsui.

Kelung", Jap. Kiirun (Inn,
Taihei-kwan), is beautifully situa-
ted a little to the E. of the nor-
thern extremity of Formosa, on
the shores of a deep bay backed by
a mountain range. It is the chief
port on the island, — the only one
in fact that can be entered by large
steamers; but they have to lie about
1 m. from the town. The scenery
gains charm from the wealth of
feathery bamboos all around, and
from an islet in the centre of the
bay. This latter, called Palm. Island
by the European residents, has
some curious rocks, and forms a
pleasant httle excursion by boat.

Tailioku is reached in 1^ hr.
from Kelung by a somewhat rough
line of railway, passing through
beautif Til country.

As the multiplicity of names given
to this city and its suburbs is apt to cause
confusion, the visitor should understand
that Tailioku in Japanese and Taipeh in
Chinese are merely difl'erent proniincia-
tions of the same ideographs. Taihoku
(Taipeh) is properly the name of that
part of the city which lies within the
walls, and is now mainly occupied by the
Japanese official class, the garrison, etc.
The quarter outside the walls, where
the European settlers dwell, is called
Twritutia (pronounced Taitotei by the
Japanese). It stretches northward along
the river Tamsui-yei, which flows down
to the port of Tamsui, about in m.
distant. There is yet another quarter of
the capital, called Matika by the Japanese,
Banka by the Chinese, inhabited by both
nations, but with the Chinese as usual
in the majority. The total Japanese
population (officials excluded) of Tai-
hoku, Twatutia. and Manka together is
5,850 ; of Chinese, 112,000.

The railway station stands in

Taihoku. Tamsui. Steamer Bound the Coast.

547

Twatutia (7?in, Nishiki-kwan).
Jinrikishas are in attendance.
The bast inn at Taihokn is the
Choydgo, close to the prefecture.
Siglits, properly so called, there are
none ; biat the aspect of the lite
of the Chinese population will
interest almost every traveller,
whether he come from Europe or
fi'om Japan, and a visit might be
paid to the Opium, Factory. This
drug, whose use the Japanese go-
vernment discourages M'ithout here
absolutely prohibiting, is kept as
a strict official monopoly. The
Botanical Garden on " Ferry Hill,"
called Maruyama by the Japanese,
\ hr. out of the town by jinrildsha,
affords an excellent view.

A pleasant excursion through
varied scenery can be made by jin-
rikisba or chair, or else boat, to the
sulphur springs of

Hokuto, (good accommodation
at the Shoto-en), on the r. bank of
the river, \ hr. walk from the land-
ing, and about 7 m. — say 1\ hr. —
from Twatutia. The river is also
the usual way of reaching Tamsui,
about Ht m. distant, to which place
passenger boats rim daily ; but a
private one had best be engaged.
Tide favouring, the boats slip down
in 2 hrs., otherwise '2\ hrs.

It is also possible to go from Tai-
hoku by rail to Shinchiku, 43 m.;
but the country is flat and dull.

Tanasui (Inn, Kochi-ya), alter-
natively known to the Chinese and
resident Eiu'opeans under the name
of llobe, is a beautifully situated,
but uninteresting seaport town on
the N.W. coast, with a bad harbour.
It has a population of 7,t)00, of
whom 15t) Japanese, excluding
officials. Kwannon-yama, a strik-
ing feature, rises to a height of
2,000 ft.; and to the E. and N. E.
are still loftier peaks, — over 3,000
ft. The British Consulate for North-
ern Formosa is located here in the
remains of a Dutch fort three cen-
turies old, and having waUs more
than 6 ft. thick. A branch office
has been opened at Twatutia.

3.-

-By Steamer Kound the
Coast.

As made by the best steamers
of the Osaka Shosen Kwaisha, the
voyage round Formosa, calling at
the Pescadores, occupies 9 days.

Leaving Kelung, the first place
touched at is Su-o (no accom-
modation) ; but it is an easy day on
foot or in chair to Giran (Chin.
llaji), where fair accommodation
can be had. Some 4 ri N. of
Giran, and also 3 ri S. of it,
colonies of Pepohoan can be visit-
ed. Others exist near Su-o itself.

It is a little to the south of Su-6
that begins the magnificent line of
precipitous mountains, or rather
cliffs, which, with few interrup-
tions, chai'acterise the E. coast of
Formosa down to latitude 23°.
The lower third of the total height
of these mountaias (5,000 ft. to
7,000 ft.) is almost perpendicular.
All the rest, except on the sea face,
is clothed from base to summit with
the densest vegetation ; and the
gigantic wall of rock is riven every
few miles by huge gorges of
unparalleled grandeur. The sea-
wall of Hoy in the Orkneys and
the cliffs of the Yosemite valley
fade into insignificance by com-
parison.*

Some 4 hrs. steam from Su-6
brings one to Kwarenk5, stand-
ing on a part of the coast entirely
occupied by friendly barbarians,
who assist in landing the cargo.

The mouth of the Pinan river is
the next place touched at, the town
of Pinan lying some distance
inland. Another name for it is
Tailo.

The lofty island of Botel
Tobago (Jap. Kotosho), which the
steamer leaves on the 1., is inhabit-
ed by a gentle though uncivilised
race, having customs which strik-
ingly diverge in many points from
those of their congeners in For-

*Thi8 description is abridged from Dr.
Guillemard's Cruise of the Marchesa.

548

Boute 85. — Formosa.

mosa. Their boats, high both in
prow and stern, call for notice, as
does the complicated construction
of theii" dwelling-houses, which in-
clude, in different storeys, a sleep-
ing-room and separate work-rooms
for men and women, besides a store-
house, a boat-house, and an outlook.
The lower storey is partly below the
level of the gi-ound.

South Cape, with its fine light-
house, is then rounded, and the
steamer calls in at Xanwan (South
Bay).

[With a smooth sea, the traveller
desirous of seeing something
of the interior, should land
here and proceed via Koshxin
to Shajo. No part of the island
is so free from danger and
difficulty as its southern ex-
tremity, the aborigines of the
Boiansha tribe being now quite
friendly. They it was who
murdered the Luchuan fisher-
men referred to on p. 545 ;
but their affections were won
by Marshal Saigo's conciliatory
treatment of their chiefs.]
The steamer then continues on
to Shajo, 5 or 6 ri inhxnd from
which lias the territory of the
Botansha tribe. Better accommo-
dation than Shajo can afford, is
found 2 ri off at the walled city of
Koskun (Chin. Uengchun). Quan-
tities of buffaloes are bred in this
district.

Takao (Inn, Takao-kwan), pop.
6,800, stands very prettily on two
sides of a large lagoon, connected
with the sea by a chasm in the rocks
only 70 yds. wide. It is one of the
treaty ports, and has a British
Consulate ; but the consul usxially
resides at Anping. Here also the
foreign merchants of Anping have
branch establishments, which they
frequently visit during the sugar
export season, — January to June.
— Chengkim, 3 m. to the E. of
Takao, is the headquarters of a
Spanish Koman Cathohc Mission.
Bozan (Chin. Fengshan), 2^ ri from
Takao, is a flourishing Chinese dty.

reached by boat for about 1 ri up
the lagoon, whence by chair or on
foot along the flat.

A line of railway has been built
(1900) along the 24 miles separating
Takao from

Anping [Inn, Anping-kwan), the
next important roadstead on the
coast. The sea is here so shallow
that ships have to lie 2 miles off,
and the landing is so bad that
passengers are conveyed ashore in
what are called tekpai, — strange
craft resembling a tub on a raft.
One may also reach Anping over-
land from Takao by chair in 10 or
12 hrs. passing through Ji-chon-
hang, Akoten, and Eoo-sia, each
about 8 miles apart, — a tedious trip
over perfectly flat counti-y. There
is also a Decauville tramway, —
not recommended. Anping is an
ugly place siuTounded by mud
flats, and the malaria during the
wet season is specially to be feared
in all this neighbourhood. Here
stand the houses of a few Euro-
pean merchants engaged in the
sugar trade, of which this is the
chief and gi-owing centi-e. It also
does a considerable business with
the Shushu and Horisha districts,
when the country is not too much
distin-bed by insurgents.

The ruins of Fort Zelandia, in the
settlement of Anping, preserve the me-
mory of Dutch rule in Formosa. Built
in 1626, it was besieged and eventually
taken by Koxinga in 1661. The site has
been appropriated to residences for the
Japanese custom-house officials.

The population of Anping is
4,000 CMnese, and 200 Japanese.

The walled city of Tainan
(Inn, *Shi-shun-en, with garden
in willow-pattern style), capital of
Southern Formosa, lies about 2^ m.
inland by jinrikisha. It is the
largest place in the island, fuU of
life and bustle, with a Chinese
population of about lOO.OtiO, and
2,300 Japanese, exclusive of the
garrison. This place was formerly
known as Taiwan-fu, and was the
chief seat of the Chinese adniinis-

Tlie Pescadores. Mounts Morriaon and Sylvia. 549

tration of Formosa until the year
1886, when it was remoYed to Tai-
peh (Taihoku). For a Chinese city,
it is fairly clean and well-laid out
and paved, and possesses several
fine temples, clubs, and gitQdhalls,
besides numbers of excellent shops,
where European articles may be
obtained. A few British merchants
and missionaries reside here.
Here, too, are the remains of an
old Dutch fort.

The Pescadores (Jap. Hokoto)
are a small archipelago lying on
either side of the Tropic of Cancer,
and included in the jurisdiction of
the Governor-General of Formosa.
The land, chiefly of basaltic forma-
tion, is flat, and the soil poor, and the
prevalence of violent N.E. winds for
half the year prevents the growth
of trees. Typhoons also exert their
full fury in the Pescadores Channel,
which is consequently littered with
wrecks. An obelisk erected on one
of the smaller islands (Sand Island)
commemorates the wreck of the
P. and O. steamer " Bokhara " in
1892. The population is Chinese ;
almost all are fishermen, whence
the Spanish name which' has passed
into general European usage.
Dried fish is the only article of ex-
port.

From Anping to Makyii (Chin.
Makung), the chief place in the
archipelago, is a run of 5 or 6 hrs.
by steamer. But as there is no
accommodation and little if any-
thing to see, no traveller is advised
to stay there. Should he do so, he
would be obhged to remain on the
islands for at least 10 days until
another steamer arrived, — unless,
indeed, he cared to cross over to
Anping by junk.

4. — Mount IMoekison. Mount
Sylvia.

Mount Morrison, 14,500 ft. by
barometrical measi;rement, has
rarely been ascended, owing to the
want of paths through the vir-

gin forest, the presence of the
savages, and the superstitious
objections raised by the latter even
when friendly. It is best reached
from the west coast via Unrin and
Rinkiho, which latter is the nearest
place inland inhabited by the
Chinese, who nvimber about 1,000.
Dr. S. Honda, of the Imperial Japa-
nese Forestry Department, from
whom our information is derived,
took 12 days from Rinkiho to the
top of the mountain and back.
Chinese porters were engaged — not
without difliculty — at Einldiho, and
all necessaries of course carried,
nothing being met with on the way
but two or three villages of the abo-
rigines. The whole distance had
to be done on foot, the absence of
paths and bridges making riding
impracticable. The first few days
were heavy travelling through
primeval forests of palms, ban-
yans, cork-trees, and camphor-trees
of enormous size, with tree-ferns
and interlacing creepers, and here
and there dense thickets of rattan,
or long stretches of grass higher
than a man's head ; from 6,000 ft.
onward, gigantic cryptomerias and
chamtecyparis ; at 7,000 ft., pine-
trees ; at 9,500 ft., a broad plateau,
where the majestic summit came
in view. Then more alternations
of forest and long grass up to the
top, which consists of several small
peaks, and commands a magni-
ficent panorama of almost the
whole island, with the sea both
east and west, and mountain peaks
innumerable.

Mount Morrison is not volcanic,
though some very hot spiings are
met with on the way. It consists
of argillaceous schist and quartzite,
and is steepest on the north side,
least so on the south. Deer and boars
abound. The Japanese have re-
named Mount Morrison, calling it
Nii-taka-ijama, that is, the "New
High ]\Iountain," in allusion to the
fact of tliis, the last to be added to
the empire, being also the highest,
— higher even than Fuji itself.

550

Route 85. — Formosa.

It stands nearly under the Tropic
of Cancer. No trace of snow was
found there in the middle of
November, though the temperature
fell below freezing-point at night.
The idea entertained by the Chinese
as to the existence of eternal snow
on Mount Morrison would seem to
rest on nothing more than the
presence of some conspicuous slabs
of white quartz. The mountain
is, however, visible fi-om compara-
tively few places, owing to the
high ranges that suiTound it.

Mount Sylvia, renamed Setsu-
san, or the "Snowy Mountain,"

is the second highest point of the
island and of the empire, — 12,800 ft.
It lies in latitude 24°.30' N., and
would probably be best ascended
from the neighbourhood of Shin-
chiku. Eev.Dr. Mackay describes an
attempt to make the ascent from
Tamsui- 3 diiys' joiu'ney to the base
— under the guidance of a friendly
savage chief. It failed owing to a
superstitious notion of the hitter,
who, after the fashion of his people,
going oiit to ascertain the (Uvine
will by listening to the song of
birds, found the augury unfavour-
able, and compelled the party to
retivrn.

eOEEEGTIONg AND ADDITIONS.

p. 107, line 13 from bottom. — For " Kdkendo," read Nbkendo.

P. 152. — Tonosawa. Add Tamanoyu Hotel.

P. 175.- — Travellers boiind for Shoji might push on the first day past
Yoshida to Funatsu [Inn, Naka-ya or Funatsu Hotel).

P. 244, middle. — Another interesting festival at Nagoya is the Feast of
Lanterns, held on the 13th-14th days of the 6th moon, old style, when the
whole town is illuminated.

P. 245. — A pretty festival called Kawa Matsuri is held on the river at
Gifu on the IGth day of the 6th moon, old style.

P. 323.— Kyoto. Add Miyako Hotel, Awata.

P. 355, line 4.— For 380, read 350.

P. 424, Une 15.— For 1863, read 1864.

P. 544. — Our map of Formosa having been reproduced by permission
from one pubhshed by the Toyodo, a few divergences from the standard
spelling employed in the text have unavoidably been retained.

INDEX.

( Whe7i there are several references, the most important is given first.)

Abashiri, 5-iO ; 53(1.
Abekawa, 240.
Abe-no-Sadato, 501, 524,
Aborigines, 58, 529, 538,

544.
Abo-toge, 291.
Abiikiima-gawa, 49G.
Abuta, 537-8.
Abuto, 419.
Accommodation, 6, 15,

et pass.
Ada, 375.
Adams, WUl, 106, 320,

323, 417.
"Aden," 317.
Agano-gawa, 508.
Agari-toge, 518.
Agatsuma-gawa, 18G, ei

pass.
Agematsu, 252, 301.
Ago, 393.
Aichi, 303.
Ai-gaeri, 468.
Aikawa (Kinkwa-zan),

511.
Aikawa (Sado), 207-8.
Ainos, 529, 537 ; 85, 344,

407, 49('., 5l»3, 509, 510,

52G, 534.
Ai-no-take, 282 ; 281.
Aitsu, 465-i}.
Aiya, 42().

Aizen Myo-o, 44, 52.
Aizu, 505.

ALPINE PLANTS

Ajigasawa, 522.
Ajina, 420.
Ajiro, 1B2, 165.
Akabane, 112, 196, 495.
Akadake, 278.
Akagawa, 530.
Akagi-san. 189, 218.
Akahito, 70.
Alcaisbi-san, 284.
Akaknra (Asbio), 216 ;

211.
Akakura (Echigo), 264.
Akama, 476.
Akamatsn-toge, 483.
Akanagi-san, 208.
Akanuma-ga-bara, 212.
Akao, 285.
Akaoka, 455.
Akappori, 208.
Akasaka, (Tokyo), 122.
Akasaka, (Yari-ga-take),

293-4.
Akasaka-toge, 299.
Akasaka-yama, 246.
Akasawa, 275, 279.
Akashi, 318, 411, 412,

425, 429.
Akayn, 514; 513.
AJvechi, 286.
Aki, province, 419, 420.
Akiha, 240, 382.
Akita, 516. 517.
Akkeshi, 53S.
Akoton, 548.
Aknne, 490.
Aku-no-nra, 460.
Alpine plants, 170.

Amagi-san, 163.
Amagori, 432.
Amahs, 4.
Amakusa, 490.
Amami-Oshima, 544 ;

543.
Ama-no-Hasbidate, 401.
Ama-no-Iwato, 483.
Ama-terasn, 44 ; 38.
Amatsn, 224.
Amebata, 279.
American inflnence, 59,

60.
Amida, god, 45 ; 43, 54,

83, et pass.
Amida station, 318,
Amida-mine, 340.
Amihari, 501.
Amijima, 303.
Aiiiura, 465.
Anadaira, 295.
Anan, 45.
Ananai, 454.
Anda-no-taki, 403.
Anderson, Wm., 2, 83,

et pass.
Angels, Buddhist, 57.
Ani, 525.
Anjin-znka, 106.
Annaka, 179.
Anping, 548.
Antoku Tenno, 70 ; 56,

423.
Ao, 4S1-2 ; 472.
Aoba-yama, 400.
Aomori. 504.
Aone, 498.

554

Index.

AOTAMA

AZUSA-GAWA

BOOKS

Aoyama, 122.

Asbikubo, 238.

Aral (Ecbipo), 20,5.

Asbikura (Hayakawa

Arni (Karnizawa), 182.

valley), 280-2.

Arai-yu, 189.

Asbikura (Tateyama),

Baba, 247, 395.

Arakawa(Chichibu), 177.

298.

Baelz, Dr. E., 190.

Arakawa (Mntsu), 504.

Asbinoyu, 154; 151.

Baggage, 10.

Arako-dani, 469.

Asbio, 216; 211.

Bakin, 71.

Arauiaki, 4'.J8.

Asbitaka-yama, 176,

Bamba, 297.

Arashi-yama, 351; 333.

235.

Bandiii-san, 505, 509.

Arayasu, 203, 264.

Asbi-wara-no-laini. 427.

Bange. 5<)8.

Arayu (Cbiknzen), 476.

Asiatic Society of Japan,

Banka, 546.

Arayu (Shiobara), 219.

241, et pass.

Banks, 4 ; 3, ef pass.

Arcbseology, 130, 146,

Aso-san, 467.

Bantan Railway, 4<H.

538.

Aston, W.G., 2. 75, 146.

Banyu-gawa, 235, 270.

Arcbed Kock, 417,

Asuka-yama, 145.

Barriers, 159, 228, 246.

Arcbitectme, 38, 42, 116,

Atagawa, 165.

Batcbelor, Eev. J., 537.

124,308, 3U>, 320, 327,

Atago, god, 45.

Batbs, 15, 190, et pass.

370, 515, 537, 548.

Atago (Fukuoka), 477.

Bazaars, 12, 115, 129,

Ari, 486.

Atago (Karuizawa), 182.

348.

Arida, 3S4.

Atago (Kydto) 356 ; 246.

Bears, 529, 540.

Arima, 317 ; 315.

Atago (Sendai), 499.

Beer, 9 ; 536.

Ariiua-gucbi, 318.

Atago (Tokyo), 122 ; 113.

Bells, large, 104, 339,

Aiita, 474 ; 473.

Atago (Tsuruga), 406.

347, 380, 385, 396.

Ai-senals, 127, 400, and

Alago (Uraga), 107.

Benkei. 71, 355, 373,

see Dockyards.

Atami (Iwasbiro), 504.

389, 396, 500, et pass.

Art, 13, et pass.

Atami (Izu), 160 ; 159.

Benten, goddess, 45, 55,

Art motives, 53, 54, 71,

Atawa, 389.

105.

73, 78, 84, 131, 246.

Atoda-gawa, 481-2.

Benten, spa, 220.

318, 3S7, 4S2.

Atosa-nobori, 540.

Benten-daki, 187.

Art Museum (Kyoto),

Atsumi, 241.

Benten-yama, 154.

339.

Atsuuiori, 78.

Benzai-ten, 45, 55.

Ai-t Scbool (Tokyo), 131.

Atsuta, 241.

Beppu, 47u ; 413.

Asabi Onsen, 220.

Avatars, divine, 40, 304.

Bessbi, 447, 451.

Asabi-dake, 518.

Avenues, 197, 353, 496.

Bessbo, 185.

Asabina, 225.

Awa (Bosbu), 221.

Betsukai, 540.

Asabi-no-taki, 163.

Awa (Sbikoku), 437, 449,

Bicycles, 10 ; 3.

Asaina Sabm-6, 70.

et pass.

Bingo Nada, 411, 415.

Asakai, 194.

Awaji, 424 ; 256.

Bingo, province, 418.

Asakawa, 439.

Awasbima, 415.

Bingo-no-Saburo, 77.

Asaknsa, 133.

Awata, 324, 347, 395.

Binzuru, 45.

Asama (Ise), 313.

Awata palace, 348.

Bisbamon, 46, 55, 50.

Asama, hot springs, 260,

Awazu-no-bara, 397.

" Bismarck HiU," 317.

Asama, volcano, 183,

Ayagawa, 440.

Biwa Lake, 304.

259.

Azabu, 122.

Biwa-toge, 250.

Asami, 470.

Azaleas, 114, 144, 210.

Black, J. R., 110, 234.

Asamusbi, 504.

Azuki-zaka, 518.

Blakiston, Capt. T.W.,

Ase-ga-bama, 211.

Azuma, (E. Japan), 182.

529.

Asegata-toge, 211.

Aznma, (Sbinsbti), 250,

Boars, 373, 386, 549.

Asbikaga dynasty, 59,

251.

Bodai-yama, 109.

331 ; 72, 81, 330.

Azuma-yama, 497.

Boju, 468 ; 467.

Asbikiiga (Sbimotsuke),

Azusa-gawa, 289, 290.

Bonten, 46.

195.

Books on Japan, 2, 20.

Index.

555

BOOTS

CHU-AI

DAI-GA-TAKE

Boots, must be taken

Charms, religious, 43,

Chu-6 Tetsud5, 244.

off, 8, 16, 197.

313.

Chusonji, 500.

Bosatsu, 46, et pass.

Catholicism, 57, 59.

Chuzenji, 210, 211 ; 209.

Boshu, 220.

Chengkim, 548.

Civil Wars, 60, 72, 79,

Botanshii, 548.

Cherry-blossoms, 9, 78,

82, 84, 128, 475, 505,

Botel Tobago, 547 ; 545.

114, 129, 137, 144, 145,

5^9.

Bowes, G.L., 430.

277, 333, 354, 372, 380.

Cliffs, 547, 544-5 ; 276,

" Boys," 4.

Cbiba, 221.

391.

Bozu-ga-hora, 167.

Chibuii-shima, 432-3.

Climate, 8, 383, 393,

Brahma, 46.

(Jhichibu, 176.

429,437,491,529,539,

Bridges, noted, 138, 199,

Chigura, 224.

543, 544, 545.

273, 280, 337, 422, 452.

Chijiwa, 466 ; 463.

Cocks, Capt. K, 417.

Briakley, Capt. F., 474,

Chikamatsu Monzae-

Cocks, long-tailed, 452 ;

480.

mon, 71, 432.

129.

Buddha, 54 ; 42.

Chikatsuyu, 386.

Communication, means

Buddhism, 41 ; 37, 40, 9,

Chikubu-shima, 398.

of, 2, 10.

et pass.

Chikngo-gawa, 478.

Confucius, temples of,

Buju-t5ge, 386.

Chikuma-gawa, 260 ;

126, 196.

Bu'kaku, 400.

184.

Constituion, 59, 60, 75.

Bukenji, 108.

Cliikuzen, 477.

Coolies, 10.

Buko-zan, 177.

Cliina-Japan War, 1,

Coral, 452, 543.

Bungo Channel, 416,

123, 422, e< pass.

Cormorants 245 ; 144,

484.

Chinda, 469.

399.

Bungo Fuji, 472.

Chinese influence, 41,

Crape, 398, et pass.

Buno, 193.

59, 77, 195-6, 327, 357,

Crests, 81, 117, 119.

Eurando Yakushi, 263.

427, 543, 544.

Crown Prince, 105, 122,

Buson, 71.

Chinu-ga-ura, 323.

161, 236-7.

Byobu-ga-ura, 441 ; 77.

Chion-in, 343 ; 72.

Crows, 305, 387.

Byodo-in, 358.

Chishaku-in, 338.

Cryptomerias, 197, 393,

Byoritsu, 546.

Chita, 303.

472, 486, 549.

Chitose, 536.

Crystals, 268-9, 430.

Chiwara, 446.

Curios, J 2, 13.

Chizuka, 269.

Currency, 4.

Ch5 Densu, 71, 337.

Custom-house, 3, 13.

Camphor-trees, 161, 313,

Chcifu, 423.

Czar, 82.

460, 478, 486, 545, 549.

Choja-sald, l05.

Carriages, 10.

Choji-taki, 207.

Castles, 242, 318, 320,

Chokai-zan, 521.

381, 3i)8, 418, 445, 479

Chonan, 223.

Catalogve of Japanese

Choshi, 221.

Dai (Kyoto), 326.

Painiinrfs, 83.

Choshu, 423.

Dai, (Miyanoshita), 154.

Cattle, 385.

Chosokabe, 437, 442.

Daiba, 161.

Caves, 105, 108, 146, 175,

Christianity in Japan,

Daibutsu(llakone), 155.

176, 177, 195, 249, 404,

57, 60, 73, 81, 130,

Daibutsu (Hyogo), 315.

418, 471, 483, 489, 510,

323, 423, 459, 460, 470,

Daibutsu (Kamakura),

543.

474,490,491,501.

102.

Celebrated men, 70.

Chronological Tables,

Daibutsu (Kyoto), 339.

Cemeteries, 122, 309,

60.

Daibutsu (Nara), 360.

351, 377, 485, 544.

Chrvsanthemums, 9,

Daibutsu (Tokyo), 129.

Chacha-nobori, 539.

114, 122, 127, 321.

Daibutsi; station, 306.

Chadai, 6.

Chu Uma-kaido, 286.

Dai-ga-hara, 277, 283.

Chaii-s, canied, 10.

Chu-ai , emperor, 423.

Dai-ga-take, 157.

55G

Index.

Daijingii, 45.
Daijoji-yama, 407.
Daikoku, 46, 55.
Daimon, 253.
Dainiyos, 73-4, 234, et

pass.
Dainichi Nyorai, 46.
Dainichi-do, 206.
Dainichi-t5ge, 518.
Dainichi -yama, 441.
Daiseishi, 46.
Daisen, 432 ; 71.
Daishaku, 501.
Daishi, 46, 110.
Daishoji, 406.
Daitokuji, 330.
Daiya-gawa, 210 ; 199,

496.
Dances, 16, 39, 45, 306,

307, 325, 359.
Dango-zaka, 127.
Dan-no-ura, 423 ; 56.
Daruma, 46.
Dashiwara-dani, 296.
Date family, 71, 126.

130, 218, 451, 498.
Dazaifu, 477 ; 56.
Deer, 207, 277, 359, 420,

512, 549.
Deforestation, 163, 251,

372, 382, 393, 401, 403,

453, 481.

Deguchi, 468.
Demons, 53.
Dengyo Daishi, 71.
Deshima, 4(i0 ; 60.
Diet (parliament), 59,

60, 122.
Distances, calculation

of, 5, 11, 169, 459.

Divers, female, 312.
Dockyards, 106, 400,

419, 474.
Dogama, 450.
Ddgashima (izn), 164.
Dogashima (Jliyauo-

shita), 152.

Dogo (lyo), 445 ; 444.
Dogo (Uki), 432-3.
Doi, 449 ; 444, 448.
Dojoji, 385.

" EMPEESS "

Dolmens, 146, 315, 366,

431.
Dorogawa, 374.
Doro-Hatcho, 388 ; 374.
Dorotstiji, 374.
Doryo-San, 157; 151.
Doshima, 417.
Dosbisha, 329.
Ddsojin, 46.
Dotom-bori, 322 ; 319.
Doves, sacred, 139.
Dozen, 432.
Dramas, 71, 79, 137, 218,

220, 236, 322, 336, 385.
Dress, 8.
Dutch in Japan, 59, 60,

106,130,202,344,417.

448, 459, 460, 475, 545,

547-9.
Dutiable articles, 3.
Dzushi, 105.

Earthquakes, 60, 111,

115, 122,295,432.
East Coast Kailway, 226.
Eating-houses, 7.
Ebetsu, 536.
Ebisu, god, 46, 247.
Ebisu Minato, 268 ; 267.
Eboshi-jima, 416.
Echigo, 266, 504,e<pas.s.
Echizen, 405.
Edozawa, 525.
Ei, 488.
"Eight Views," 394;

108, 292.
Eighty - eight Holy

Places, 451.
Eikwando, 349.
Eiuo, 488; 487.
Ejiri, (Suruga), 237-8.
Ejiri (Tango), 403.
Eko-in, 137.
Embassies, Japanese,

60, 71, 130, 498.
Emi, 224.

Emma-0, 47, 104, 368.
" Empress " steamers,

416, 460.

Empresses, 66.
Ena-san, 302.
Enko Daishi, 71.
Enkyd, 270.
En-no-Shokaku, 71, 372,

374.
Enoshima, 104, 105.
Enoura, 164, 165.
Esaki, 413.
Esan, 532.
Esashi, 533-5.
Eshin, 72.
Esimii, 393.
Etajima, 419.
Etchu, 287, 408.
Eto Shimpei, 475.
Europeanisation, 59, 60;

1, 82, 115, 485, e/ pass.
Exile, places of, 165.
Expenses, 6 ; 4.

Fairs, 114.
Fhiry Tales, 397.
Festivals. 3, 113, 114,

305, 311, 336, 345, 349,

353,356,389,391,419,

460, 551.
Feudjdism, 87 ; 60.
Fire-go<l. 45, 48.
Fire walking, 114, 124.
Fires, 137.
Fishing. 14, 161, 210,

215. li55, 453, 483, 503,

511, 530, 536.
Five Hundred Rakan, 53,

138, 244. ei pass.
Flowers, 9, 114, 186, and

see Cherry, Fliim, etc.
Food, 9, 11, et pass.
Food, goddess of, 57.
Foot-gear, 8.
Formosa. 544; 60.
Fort Zelandia, 548.
Fortuno-teUiag, 126.
Fortv-seven Ronius, 72,

121.
Fossils, 246. 250, 498.
Fox-god, 49, 336-7.
Frescoes, 135.

Index.

557

FT7BASAMI

Fubasami, 197.
Fuchizald, 418.
Fu-daiahi, 47.
Fude-sute-matsu, 107,

382.
Fudo, god, 48, 52, ei

pass.
Fudo, temples of, 134,

139, 140, 146.
Fugen, 48, 54.
Fngen-dake, 464.
Fuji, 167.

Fujikawa, 273 ; 176.
Fuji-mi Ju-san-shu,

168.
Fujimi - toge (Atami),

162.
Fujimi - toge (Nikko),

208, 209.
Fujina, 430.
Fuji-no-mori, 337.
Fujisawa, 235 ; 82, 105.
Fujishiro, 227.
Fujisliiro-saka, 384.
Fujiwara family, 59,

500.
Fujiwara (Shimotsuke),

219, 507.
Fukagawa, 139.
Fukamizo, 400.
Fukara-toge, 160.
Fukase-dani, 472, 482.
Fuka-ura, 523.
Fuke, 383.
Fukucbi-yama, 399, 404,

405.
Fukue, 490.
Fukui, 406 ; 299, 300.
Fukuoka (Chikuzen),

477 ; 476.
Fukuoka (Nambu), 503.
Fukura, 428 ; 425.
Fukuroknju, 48, 55.
Fiikuro-zaka, 288.
Fuknshima (Iwasliiro),

497 ; 495-(;, 513-14.
Fukiashima (Nakasen-

do), 252, 301.
Fukusbima (Yezo), 533.
Fuku-ura, 521.
Fukuwara, 76, 315.
Fuknwata, 218.

FUTATStr-UO

Fuknyama (Bingo), 418.
Fukuyama (Matsumae),

533.
Fukuyama (Osumi), 484.
Funabashi, 221.
Fiinagata, 515, 519.
Funairi-shima, 511.
Funakawa, 522.
Funald (Ise), 392.
Funaki (Omi), 400.
Funakosbi, 522.
Funako-toge, 407.
Funao, 187.
Funato (Kishu), 380.
Funato (Uzen), 517-18.
Funatsu (Hida), 299.
Funatsu (Koshu), 175,

278, 551.
Furuichi, 306.
Furukawa (Hida), 299.
Furukawa (Rikuzen),

499.
Furukawa (Tokusbiraa),

438.
Furukucbi, 519.
Furumacbi, 218.
Furumaki, 503.
Furu-Onsen, 463.
Furuta, 489.
FuruyuM, 521.
Fusan, 491 ; 413.
Fuse, 194.
Fusbild, 407.
Fusbimi, 357 ; 336, 395.
Fusiyama, 1()9.
Futaara Jinja, 204.
Futa-ara-yama, 197-8.
Futaba-yama, 420.
Futagawa, 241.
Futago, 142.
Futago-yama (Hakone),

154; 151.
Futago-yama (Vries

Island), 167.
Futai, 194.
Futaniata, 285.
Futami (Ise), 312.
Futanii (Tajima), 404.
Futamiya, 210.
Futatabi-sau, 317.
Futatsu-dake, 188.
Futatsu-do, 204.

GOGOSHIMA

FutatsTi-isbi, 426.
Futemma, 543.
Futsuka-icbi, 477.
Futsu-nusbi, 149.

Gakunoki, 484.
Gamada, 291, 299.
Gamman-ga-fucbi, 206.
Gan-Etsia Eailway, 504.
Ganju-san, 501.
Gara-isbi-toge, 249.
Garden parties, 122,

140.
Gardens, botanical, 127.
Gardens, landscape, 127,

137, 200, 330, 335, 345,

352, 418,420,440,480.
Gardens, zoological, 132.
Geisbu, 420.
Geku temple, 308.
Gembudo, 404.
Genji Monogatarl, 80,

318, 398.
Genkai Nada, 476.
Gen-sammi Yorimasa,

358.
German influence, 59,

125, 447.
Gero, 288, 289.
Geysers, 161. 192.
Gifu, 245, 248, 288. 551.
Ginkakuji, 351.
Ginza, 126.
Gion, 346 ; 56, 462.
Giran, 547.
Glimpses of Unfamiliar

Japan, 2.
Glossary, 93.
Gobo, 385.
Gochi, 265.
Go-chi Nyorai, 48.
Go-Daigo, Emijeror, 72,

77, 373, et pass.
Godai-san, 452.
Godo, 217.
Gods and goddesses, 44;

37, et pass.
Gogawa, 471.
Gogoshima, 416, 445.

558

Index.

Gojo, 375.
Gokanmra, 279.
Gokase-gawa, 483.
Gokasho, 473.
Gouipaclii and Komu-

rasaki, 140.
Gongen, 48, 383, et pass.
Gononra, 416.
Goia, 153 ; 151.
Gorokn-dake, 295.
Goryo-kakn, 531.
Gosharamba, 5(i7.
Go-Shirakawa, 338, 383.
Goteiuba, 170, 235 ; 168,

175, 233.
G5t6, 418.
Goto Islands, 490 ; 417,

474.
Go-Toba, emjieror, 432.
Gotoji, 471, 481.
Governiuent, 58-9.
Gowland. VVm., 146.
Goyo-zan, 524.
Goyu, 241.
Gozn Tenno, 56.
Griffis, K«v. Dr., 2, 79,

81, 406.
Grinnan, Rev. K B., 255.
Guides, 4.

Giiillemard, Dr., 547.
Guumia, 179.
Gunchu, 451.
Gunge, 428 ; 425.
Gnnji, Lieut., 510.
Gwakko Bosatsu, 48.
Gwassan, 519.
Gyogi Bosatsu, 72.

Habu, 166, 167.
Hachi-hon-matsu, 413.
Hacbi-ishi, 196-7.
Hacbijo, 165-7.
Hacbiuian, god, 48, 75,

139.
Hachiman Taro, 72, 518,

et pass.
Hachiman, temples of,

102, 139, 356, 3t30, 471,

476.

HABIMA NADA

Hacbiman-dake, 503.
Hacbimen-5^an, 471,
Hacbi-no-he, 503.
Hacbioji, 144, 269.
Hachiro-gata, 522.
Hachisuka family, 425,

437-8.
Hagi, 432 ; 413.
Haguro-san, 519.
Hagyu, 226.
Haiki, 474 ; 473.
Hajikami-saka, 391.
Hakata, 476 ; 413.
Hakii, 273-4.
Hakkai-zan, 194.
Hakodate, 530.
Hakojima, 190.
Hakone, 15S ; 150.
Hakozaki, 476.
Hakucbi, 449.
Haku-san, 299 ; 287.
Hama Eikyu, 111.
Hamada, 432 ; 413.
Hamajima, 312.
Hamamacbi, 483.
Hamamatsu, 240; 233,

285.
Hamana lagoon, 241.
Hamanoicbi, 487, 488.
Hama-no-miya, 390.
Ham awake, 470.
Hambara-toge, 250.
Hamura, 271.
Hana-magari-yama, 183,

185.
Hanamaki, 501., 524.
Hana-no-Iwaya, 391.
Hanare-yama, 182.
Hanasaki-gawa, 271.
Hanasbiki, 191.
Hanawa, 217.
iianda (Iwashiro), 498.
Handa (Owari), 233.
Haneda, 142.
Haneo, 185.
Hanaya waterfall, 210.
Hara,"l76 ; 169.
lldrakiri, 79, et pass.
Haragama, 229.
Haramachi, 190.
Hara-no-maclii, 229.
Harima Noda, 411.

HlBKAWA-TOrJE

Harima, province, 318.
Harinoki-trge, 294.
Harris. Townsend, 164-
Haruda, 478.
Hanma (Ikao), 187.
Haruna (Numata), 215.
Haratori, 538.
Hase, 368.
Hasekura Eokuemon,

130.
Hasbiba, 290.
Hasbidate-dera, 177.
Hasbide, 301.
Hashikura-ji, 450 ; 449.
Hashima, 462.
Hashimoto, 375.
Hassaki (.\kagi), 189.
Hassaki (Ecbigo), 266.
Hata (Hakone). 156, 159.
Hata (Sbinsbti), 289.
Hata (Tateshina), 278.
Hataboko, 292 ; 290,

291.
Hateba, 447.
Hatsiidoya, 185.

Hatsuse. 368.

Hatsusbima, 162.

Hayachine-yama, 524.

Havakawa (Koshu), 279;
273.

Hayakawa, vili., 280.

Hay aid ta, 535.

Hayaku. 535-6.

Hayama, 105.

Hayazaki (.\wa), 439.

Hayazidci (Riwa), 399.

Hearn, Lafcadio, 2, 433.

Heda. 165.

Hegawa-kawa, 524.

Hemi, 106.

Hibara, 509 ; 508.

Hida(Buzt>n), 482.

Hida Kaido, 283.

Hida, pro\-ince, 287.

Hiila-gawa, 289.

Hidari Jingoro, 73, et
pa.ts.

Hidetsugu, 376, 37S.

BUdeyoshi. 73 ; 59, 83.

Hie. 53. 123.

Hiei-zan, 354 ; 81.

Hiekawa-toge, 165.

Index.

559

HIGANE-SAN

Eigane-san, 1G2.
Higaslii Iwase, 408.
Higashi Mochiya, 254.
Higasln Mozuiui, 2!)'J.
Higaslii Ogawa, 214.
Higashi Otani, 346.
Higashi Tada, 451.
Higashi-yaiua 5U5.
Higo, 480.
Hiino-Misaki, 256.
Hijikawa, 451.
Hijiyauia-toge, 403.
Hikage Chidori, 214.
Hikata, 384.
Hikawa, 272 ; 178.
Hiketa, 440.
HikiKhima, 417.
Hikone, 398 ; 247.
Hiko Han, 481.
Hima-ga-talie, 40f).
Hiuiegaiui-dake, 502.
Hiiiieji, 31S, 404, 412.
Hinata Chidori, 214.
Hin.), 144.
Jfinoki-toge, 2 1.
llino-uiisaki, 4931.
Hirado, 417, 474.
Hiragana syllabary, 59

77.
Hiragane, 291.
Hiragi, 440, 449.
Hirai 439.
Hiraigo-gawa, 38G.
Hira-izuuii, 5( 0.

Hirano Jinja, 330.

Hirano, spring, 317.

Hirano station, 362.

Hirasawa (Nakasendo),
252.

Hirasawa (Yatsu-ga-
take), 279.

Hirasawa- Daiuion-toge,
278.

Hirata 430.

Hiratsuka, 109, 233.

Hirayama 44',).

Hirayaiua-toge, 276.

Hirayii, 291 ;" 290, 299.

Hirazawa, 521.

Hire, 266.

Hirono, 229.

Hirosaki, 522.

Hirose 374.

Hirose-gawa, 513 ; 498.
Hiroshima, city, 419 ;

413, 430, 432.
Hiroshiuia, island, 415.
Hirota (.\izu), 505.
Hirota (Awaji), 425.
H.irnuia, 450; 448-9.
Hishigawa Moronobii,

73.
lEishi-ura, 433.
History, 58.
Hita, 4()8.

Hito-ana, 176 ; 172, 175.
Hitoniaro, 73, 400.
Hitoyoshi, 488.
Hiyori-yauia, 312.
Hiyoshi Jinja, 339.
Hiyoshi (Nakasendo),

250.
Hizen, 459, 462.
Uiznnie, 501.
Ho, 449.
I lobe, 547.
Hodaka-yania (Hida),

294 ; 287.
Hodaka-yania (K6-

tsnke), 193, 496.
Hodo, 210.

Hoei-zan, 1C)9, 171, 174.
Hofukuji-toge, 260 ;

185.
Hoido, 289.

H6j5(H6shu), 225; 224.
Hojo family, 59, 70, 72,

151, 432.
H6j5 (Hitachi), 150.
Hokigawa, 218.
Hokkaido, 529.
Hokkoka Ktxido, 265,

296.
Hokoku Jinja, 340.
Hokusai, 73,
Hokuto, 547.
Holidays, 3.
Hommyo-gawa, 474.
Hdmiira, 280 ; 279.
Honda, Dr. S.. 549.
Hondo (Amakusa), 490.
Hondo (Main Island),

437.
Hongii, 387 ; 383, 393.

ICE CAVES

Hongwanji temples, 83,

133, 140, 243„3-2, 340,

342.
Honjo (Musashi) 179 ;

176.
Honjo (Toky5), 138,

221.
Honj5 (Ugo), 521.
Honshima, 415.
Honzawa, 278.
H6-6-d6, 358.
H6-o-zan, 282.
Horie, 439.
Horikiri, 137.
Hori-no-uchi, 143.
Hoiisha, 548.
Horita, 472.
Hoiiuchi, 105.
Horobetsn, 537 ; 529.
Horses, 10, 3 J, 176, 265,

385, 486, 5t)2-3, 517,

522, 530, 536, 537,

543.
Horyuji, 3G2.
Hoshu Railway, 480.
Hosokiite, 250.
HosonagH, 483.
Hoso-o-toge, 215 ; 211,

216.
Hota, 225 ; 224.
Hotei, 49, 55.
Hotels, 7.
Hotoke. 49.
Hotoke-iwa, 205 ; 199.
Hozan, 548.
Hozi;, 354.

" Hunter's Gap," 317.
Hyakkwan, 466.
Ilijahu-nia Is-.shu, 360,

395.
Hyaku-snwa, 523.
Hyogo, 315.
Hyori-yamn, 511.
Hyiiga, 484.

Ibigawa, 303.
Ibuki-yama, 246.
Iburi-hashi, 406.
Ice Caves, 175.

560

Index.

Ichiba (Bungo), 483.
Ichiba (ShinBhti), 281.
Ichiba (Tango), 4(JU.
Ichibishi-nai, 539.
Ichikawa (Harima), 404.
Ichikawa (Shimosa), 221.
Ichiki, 4!j(i.
Ichi-no-be, 503.
Ichinokawa, 447.
Icbinomiya, 223,
Icbi-no-saka, 432.
IcbinoseM, 499, 524.
Icbinose-toge, 284.
Icbinotani, 318 ; 78.
Icbi-no-watari, 525.
Ma Ten, 49, 338.
Ide-zawa, 280.
lemitsu, 73, 204 ; 128.
leyasTi, 74 ; 57, 200, 237,

et pass.
Iga, 306.
Igano, 427.
Igarashi-gawa, 206.
Ignis fatuus, 465.
lida, 285 ; 251.
lide-san, 508, 517.
ligai, 372.
lijima, 285.
li-Kamon-no-Kami, 124,

398.
liniori-san, 505.
lino-yama, 441.
lizaka, 497.
lizuka, 179.
Ijuin, 489.
Ikao, 186 ; 179.
Ikari (Koshu), 269.
Ikari (Shimotsuke), 507.
Ikari-ga-seki, 522.
Ikeda (Awa), 449 ; 448,

454.
Ikeda (Settsu), 317.
Ikeda (Tenryu), 285.
Ikegami, 141 ; 42, 110.
Ike-no-mata, 291.
Ike-no-iira, 312.
Ikesbima, 417.
Iki, 416.

Ikudauia, 321 ; 319.
Ikuno (Tajiuia), 404.
Ikuno (Tamba). 404.
Ikushumbetsu, 535.

Ikuta, 316.
Ikiitsuki-shima, 417.
Imabari, 416; 413, 415,

444.
Imaham, 446.
Imai, 221.

Imaicbi (Bungo), 469.
Imaicbi (Iziimo), 431.
Imaicbi (Nikko), 197,

219, 508.
Ima-isurugi, 407.
Imajo, 406.
Imari, 475.
Ima-watari, 249.
Imazu, 400.
Imori-toge, 385.
Imose-yania, 372, 382.
Ina, 284, 285, 302.
Ina Kaido, 285.
Inage, 221.
Inago, 278.
Inamnra-dake, 521.
Inaniura-ga-saki, 103.
Inari, god, 49.
Inari, station, 247.
Inari, temples ot, 336 ;

142, 241.
Inari-gawa, 208.
Inasa-yama, 460.
Inatori, 165 ; 164.
Inawasbiro, 505, 508.
Indian influence, 37, 41.
Industries of Japan, 2
InekoM, 290, 293.
Inland Sea, 411 ; 130.
Innai, 515.
Inno-sbima, 415.
Inns, 6, 15, et pass.
Ino 454.

Ino Cbukei, 121.
Inobana, 455.
I-no-kasbira, 143, 144.
insatsu Kyoku, 125.
Introduction, letters of,

7.
Iniiboe, 222.
Inujima, 390.
Irimacbi, 196.
Iri-no-yu, 183.
Iriomote, 544.
Irises, 114, 137, 212.
Iriyama, 191.

rWAMUKATA

Iriyamase, 176.
Iriyama-toge, 182.
Isabaya 474 ; 463, 465.
Isawa, 277.
Ise, 302 ; 4(J, 241.
Ise Ondo, 307.
Ishibama, 511.
Lsbibata, 245.
Isbigaki-jima, 544.
Lsbi-ga-sanj6, 447.
Isbii, 450.
Isbikari, 535,
Lsbikawa Goemon, 74.
Isbikawa, prefecture,

407.
Isbikawa-jima, 140.
Isbikosbi, 499.
Isbinden, 304.
Isbinomaki, 511 ; 499,

500, 509.
Isbioka, 228.
Isbite-gawa, 445.
Isbiyama-dera, 397.
Isbizucbi-yama, 446 ;

437.
Iso, 486.
Isobe, 180.
Lsobara, 228.
Isurugi, 407.
Isuzu-gawa, 312, 314.
Ita, 471, 48t)-l
Itabasbi, 278.
Itadome, 525.
Itatate, 296,
Itaya-toge, 514.
Iterup, 539 ; 538.
Ito, 162, 165 ; 164.
Itoigawa, 296, 408.
Itomi, 279.
Itozawa, 507.
Itsukusbima, 420.
Iwabucbi, 236 ; 168, 233,

274.
Iwade, 380.
Iwabara, 297.
Iwaigawa, 499.
Iwaki. province, 229.
Iwaki-san, 523.
Iwakuni, 422 ; 413.
Iwiikuzure, 517, 518.
Iwamizawa, 536 ; 535.
Iwamurata, 254, 278.

Index.

561

Iwanai, 535.
Iwane-zawa, 520.
Iwanuma, 498 ; 227, 4.95.
Iwasa Matahei, 75.
Iwasald gorge, 278.
Iwa-shimizii, 356.
Iwashiro, 504.
Iwataki, 401, 403.
Iwate-san, 501.
Iwaya, 425.
Iwo-ga-tani, 488.
Iwo-san, 540.
Iwoshima, 417.
lya, 450.
lyadani, 441.
lyo Nada, 411, 416.
lyo, province, 437, 445,

et pass.
Izanagi, 49 ; 44, 401,

425, 427.
Izanami, 49 ; 45, 401,

425, 427.
Izogu, 308.
Izu peninsula, 160.
Izu 8hichi-t6, KiS.
Izu-ga-bara, 491.
Iziiuii (lyvaki), 229.
Izumi (Osumi), 485.
Iziimikawa, 444,447,448.
Izumo, 431 ; 39, 40.
Izuna-san, 263.
Izuru, 195, 198.
Izu-san, 162 ; 161.

Jakko, 207.
Japan (Di-. Rein's), 2
Japan Mail, 124.
Japanese Alps, 169.
Japanese Homes, 2.
Japanese Literature

(Aston's), 2.
Ji-chon-hang, 548.
Jie Daisbi, 132.
Jigen Daishi, 132, 199,

204.
Jigokn (Aso-san), 468.
Jigokii (Beppii), 471.
Jikaku Uaishi, 75, 141,

432, 500, et pass.

KAGAMI-GAWA

Jikkoku-toge (Hakone),

159.
Jikkokn-toge (Naka-

seudo), 250.
Jikwan, 207-8.
Jimmu Tenno, 75, 366 ;

3, 59, 484.
Jin-ga-mine, 379.
Jingd, empress, 75 ; 49,

59, 418, 423, 477, et

pass.
Jinguji, 516.
Ji-no-shima, 256.
Jinrildshas, 6, ei pass.
Jizo, 49.

Jizo-dake, 276-7.
Jizo-san, 189.
Jdcho, 76.
J5do sect, 41, 72.
Joga-bana, 299.
Jogashima, 107.
Jonen-dake, 297 ; 287.
Joren-no-taM, 163.
Josetsu, 76.
Joshinji, 139.
Jdyama, 163.
Jozankei, 536.
Jujo-toge, 386.
Junisd, 143.
Junnin, emperor, 425,

427.
Jnnsai-miira, 531, 532.
Jnrojin, 50, 55.
•Tu-san-toge, 250.

Kabashima, 466.
Kabuto, 293.
Kabuto-kami-san, 524.
Kabuto-yama, 317.
Kacbiki, 488.
Kacbivama, 225.
Kada,"382.
Kado, 522.
Kado-isbiwara, 447.
Kadoma, 524.
Kadori, 149.
Kanoipfer, tiO, 159.
Kaga, 405, 407.
Ivagami-gawa, 452.

KAMI-NO-KtmA

Kagami-no-nra, 225.
Kaga-no-Cbiyo, 407.
Kagara-sbima, 417.
Kageldyo, 7<).
Kagemori, 177.
Kago-isbi, 211.
Kago-iwa, 208.
Kagosbima, 485 ; 82,

110, 413.
Kagura dance, 307, 359.
Kaidaicbi, 413.
Kaifu-gawa, 439.
Kaigane, 282 ; 281.
Kaimon-dake, 488 ; 484.
Kainose, 439.
Kaitakiisbi, 529.
Kaiyusba Guides, 4.
Kaizuka, 383.
Kajika-zawa, 273.
Kakazu Banta, 544.
Kakeai, 430.
Kakegawa, 240 ; 233.
Kakogawa, 318.
Kakumi, 533.
Kaku-no-tate, 517.
Kakuto, 488.
Kamado, 250 ; 249, 248.
Kamafose-san, 526.
Kamagori, 241.
Kamaisbi, 524.
Kamakm-a, 101 ; 59, 87.
Kamanasbi-gawa, 276.
Kamatari, 370.
Kamazawa, 284.
Kambara, 236.
Kameda, 534.
Kame-ga-mori, 446.
Kameido, 138.
Kameoka, 354.
Kameyama, 304 ; 303,

Kami Xisbino, 300.
Kamibu, 449 ; 448.
Kamidaki, 298 ; 296.
Kami-Gamo, 353.
Kamigata, 323.
Kami-icbi, 372.
Xami-Ide, 176 ; 172, 175.
Kamikauc, 272.
Kamikawa, 536.
Kamino, 473.
Kami-no-km"a, 389.

562

Index.

KAMI-NO-SUWA

KATSUYAMA

KINOMOTO

Kami-no-Suwa, 277 ;

Karasn Gozen, 305.

Kawabashiri, 472.

253.

Karatsii, 416.

Kawachi (Hyuga), 472.

Katuino-yama, 514.

Karigawa, 519.

Kawagoe, 271.

Kamishima, 313.

Kariki, 538.

Kawaguchi (.\wa), 454.

Kauiiya, 375.

Kaiiya, 425.

Kawaguchi, lake, 175,

Kauiiyama, 155 ; 151.

Karizaka-toge, 178.

278.

Kami-Yosbida, 175 ;

Karnizawa, 181, 248,

Kawaguchi (Tosa), 453.

172, 173, 270.

259.

Kawajj, 507.

Kami-Zuketo, 438.

Kasa-dake, 291 ; 287.

Kawakami, 472.

Kammyo, 454.

Kasagi, 306.

Kawanaka-jima, 84.

Kamo, 306 ; 303.

Kasamoii, 223.

Kawano, 272.

Kauiogawa (Boshu),

Kasaoka, 412.

Kawanoe, 449 ; 443-4,

224.

Kasatori-toge, 254.

418.

Kamogawa (lyo), 446.

Kashii, 476.

Kawara, 471, 480-1.

Kamogawa (Ky5to), 325,

Kashima (Hitachi), 222 ;

Kawara-yu, 190.

326, 353.

79, 150.

Kawasald, 110.

Kamogawa Canal, 394,

Kashima (Tenryii), 285,

Kawa-uchi, 524.

3J5.

286.

Kawaura, 293.

Kauiokari, 176.

Ka«hiwabara (Nara-

Kawazu-no-hama, 163,

Kauioshima, 450.

Osaka Ry.), 335 ; 382.

164, 165.

Kaiiiozawa, 272.

Kashiwabara (Sakurai),

Kazuno, 502.

Kamin'O, 375.

366 ; 75.

Kazusa, 220.

Kana-ga-saki, 405.

Kashiwabara (Shinshu),

Kazusaka-toge, 215.

Kanagawa, 110 ; 100.

264 ; 263.

Ke-age, 349 ; 307, 394.

Kanagoe-toge, 471.

Kashiwagi, 374.

Kegon waterfall, 211.

Kaname-ishi, 222.

Kashiwara-yama, 426.

Keicho-zan, 219.

Kanaoka, 78, 328.

Kashiwa-zalfix-toge, 176.

Kei-ga-shima, 235.

Kanaya, 225.

Kashiwa-zaki, 266.

Kei-no-Matsubara, 428.

Kanayama (Hida), 289.

Kasho, 50.

Kelung, 546.

Kanayama (Uzen), 515.

Kasnga, 359.

Kemanai, 525.

Kanazawa (Kaga), 407;

Kasumi lagoon, 222,

Ken-ga-mine, 172; 169.

299.

228.

Ken-no-mine, 263.

Kanazawa (Koshu), 277,

Katase, 105 ; 104.

Kesa Gozen, 76.

284.

Katashina-gawa, 214.

Kesen-numa, 524; 523.

Kanazawa (Yokohama),

Katata, 400.

Kiire, 488.

108 ; 107.

Katayamazu, 406.

Kibyu-<lani, 293.

Kanda Myojin, 126.

Kato Kiyomasa, 76, 480,

Kichijoji, 144.

Kane, 375.

489, et pass.

Kiga, 152.

Kankake, 418.

Katsiibo, 266.

Kikyo-ga-hama, 253.

Kannawa, 470, 471.

Katsiinuma, 271.

Kimbo-san, 480.

Kano (Gifa), 249.

Katsiira (Kishu), 390.

Kimii-dora, 381.

Kano, painters, 76.

Katsura palace, 335.

Kimino, 189.

Kanogawa, 163.

Katsura-gawa (Banyu),

Kimpu-zan, 269.

Kano-zan, 226.

270.

Kinkakuji, 330.

Kantan, 470.

Katsnra-gawa (Izn), 163.

Kinko-zan, 347, 395.

Kanuuia, 197.

Katsura-gawa (Kydto),

Kinkwa-zan, 512 ; 509-

Kanzaki (Hizen), 475.

^ 354 ; 333.

11.

Kanzald Jet., 317, 318,

Katsu-\ira, 223.

Kinokawa, 380.

399.

Katauyama (Echizen),

Kinokuni-ya Bunzae-

Kaori, 498.

300.

mon, 384.

Kavakuni-mi-dake, 487.

Katsiiyama (Mimosaka),

Kinomiya, 161.

Karasaki, 396.

429.

Kinomoto, 391.

Index.

563

KINEYIT-ZAN

KOMENOTJBA

KOSHTN-ZAN

Kinryu-zan, 136.

Kdbukuji, 362.

Kominato (Boshu), 223.

Kintoki-zan, 156; 151.

Kochi (Izu), 164.

Kominato (Mutsu), 503.

Kinugawa, 507; 208, 496.

Kochi (Tosa), 452 ; 413.

Ko-Mitake, 175.

Kinukasa-yama, 331.

Kochi-no-yu, 272 ; 271.

Komori, 405.

Kioi-cho Koenchj, 123.

Kodaiji, 345.

Komoro, 259 ; 184.

Kirifuri waterfall, 206.

Koenami, 427 ; 425.

K6nose-no-Iwado, 489.

Kirishima, volcano, 486.

Kofu, 268.

Kompira, god, 50.

Kirishima Onsen, 488.

Ko-Funakosbi, 499.

Kompira (Ikao), 187.

Eiritsumi, 182, 183.

Koga, 496.

Kompira (SanuM), 441,

Kirkwood, M., 131.

Koganei, 144.

454-5.

Kiryu, 196.

Kogawa-guchi, 389.

Komuro, 273.

Kisarazu, 226.

Kogawara, 503.

Komuro-zan, 162.

Kishi Bojin, 50.

Kogota, 499.

Konabe-toge, 164 ; 163.

Kishiwada, 383.

Ko-gumo-tori, 393.

Kongara Doji, 48.

Kishu, 383, 392; 8.

Koichi, 294.

Kongo-san, 375.

Kiso Kaido, 249.

Koishikawa, 127.

K5-no-Amida, 304.

Kisogawa, 249-51 ; 245,

Kojigoku (Miyanoshita),

Konodai, 221 ; 79.

303.

153; 151.

Konolia, 478.

Kiso-no-Kakehashi. 252.

Kojigoku (Unzen), 463.

Ko-no-Hana-Sakuya-

Kissaka, 400.

Kojiki, 59, 80, et pass.

Hime, 54, 261, et pass.

Kissawa, 269.

Kojima (Yezo), 534,

Konosu, 146.

Kitagawa, 483.

Kojima Takanori, 77.

Konsei-toge, 213-14.

Kita Hodaka, 297.

Kojimachi, 124.

Koosia, 548.

Kita Yoshimi, 146.

Kojima-wan, 418.

K6raku-en (Okayama),

Kitajo, 297.

Koka, 313.

418.

Kitaliami-gawa, 499,

Kokawa, 380.

Koraku-en, Tokyo, 127.

511, et pass.

Koken, empress, 425.

Kora-san, 478.

Kitano Tenjin, 329.

Kokubu, 485.

Korea, 491.

Kita-ura lagoon, 222.

Kokubunji, 144, 271.

Korea, invasions of, 49,

Kitayama-gawa, 387-8;

Kokura, 476.

59, 60, 73, 75, 423.

374.

Kokuzo Bosatsu, 50, et

Korean influence, 41,

Kiyokawa, 515, 519.

pass.

58, 333, 364, 480, 489.

Kiyomizu-dera, 343.

Koma, 502.

Kori, 498.

Kiyomoii, 76, et pass.

Komachi (lyo), 444-5.

Kori-dani, 191.

Kiyosumi, 224.

KomacM, poetess, 78.

Korin, 78.

Kiyotaki, 207.

Koma-ga-take (Hakone),

Koriyama (Iwashiro),

Kizu-gawa, 306.

155 ; 151.

496 ; 229, 495, 504.

Kizuki, 430.

Koma-ga-take (Koshu),

Koriyama (Yamato),

Kizuro, 388.

283.

362.

Ko-ajiro, 107.

Koma-ga-take (Riku-

Koromo-gawa, 500 ; 88.

Ko-Ama-no-Hashidate,

chu), 499.

Koropok-guru, 538.

403.

Koma-ga-take (Shin-

Kosaka, 525.

Kobata, 357.

shii), 301 ; 252, 287.

Kose, 183, 185.

Kobe, 314; 248, 412.

Koma-ga-take (Yezo),

Kose-no-Kanaoka, 78,

Kobe-gawa, 431.

532, 533.

328.

Kobiro-toge, 386.

Komagino, 269 ; 144.

Koshibu, 284.

Kobo Daishi, 77, 376, et

Ko-Manago, 213.

Koshigoe, 104.

pass.

Komatsu (Echigo), 508.

Koshime-no-Oshima,

Kobori Enshu, 77, 335,

Komatsu (Kishu), 388-9.

416.

et pass.

Komatsu-jima, 438.

Koshin, 50.

K5bu Railway, 144.

Komei, emperor, 337.

Kosbiki-jima, 490.

Kobi;-ga-hara, 211.

Kome-no-ura, 406.

Koshin-zan, 216.

564

Index.

KOSHtJ

KUSAKABE

LAKE INAWASHIKO

Koshfi, 268-9.

Knmamachi, 453.

Kusakura, 508.

Koshu Kaidd, 269, 276.

Kumamoto, 478 ; 466-7.

Kusatsu Jet., 247 ; 233,

Koshun, 548.

Kumano (Izumo), 431.

306.

Kotaba, 272.

Kumano Kaido, 384.

Kusatsu, spa, 190 ; 185.

Kotajima-Minato, 438.

Kumano (Kishti), 383,

Kushinioto, 393.

Kotald, 216.

389.

Kushiro, 538.

Kotenjo, 374.

Kumano-gawa, 387; 383,

KusunoM Masashige,

Kotohira, 441 ; 50.

385, 389.

79.

Kotoishi-yama, 422.

Kumihama, 403.

Kutani, 407.

Kotoslio, 547.

Kunashiri, 539 ; 538.

Kutsukake, 183.

Koiira, 165.

Kunda, 403.

Kutsuzawa, 283.

Kowaki-dani, 153 ; 151.

Kuni-toko-tachi, 52.

Kuwana, 251, 303.

Koxinga, 545, 548.

Kunnui, 535.

Kuzu (Ivo), 453.

Koya-san, 375.

Kuno-zan, 237 ; 74, 199.

Kuzu (Yamato), 372 ;

Koyo-kwan, 121.

Kura-ga-saki, 208.

365.

Koyoshi-gawa, 521.

Kurama-yama, 353.

Kwammu, emperor.

Koza, 393.

Kuranomoto, 490.

326, et pass.

Kozenji, 499, 511.

Kiire, 419 ; 413.

Kwannon, goddess, 51,

Kozori, 281-2.

Kuresaka-toge, 190.

52, 45.

Kozu, 151, 161, 233, 235.

Kuribara, 271.

Kwannon. temples of.

Kozuke-shima, 211.

Kuiihashi, 496.

103, 127, 133, 223, 305;

Kozu-mura, 149.

Kurile Islands, 539.

338, 343, 401, 419.

Kozu-no-miya, 321.

Kuiino, 488.

K-wannon-no-taM, 462.

Kozu-shima, 165.

Kurisu-gawa, 385.

Kwannon-saki, 107, 254.

Kublai Khan, 59, 101,

Kuiiyama, 209.

Kwannon-yama, 547.

477, 491.

Kurobe, 296 ; 295, 408.

Kwansai Eailway, 303,

Kubota, 516.

Kurobera, 269.

233.

Kucharo, 540.

Kurobe-toge, 509.

Kwarenkd, 547.

Kuchi-no-Hayashi, 482.

Kurobi-san, 189.

Kyo-ga-shima, 279.

Kuchinotsn, 466 ; 465,

Kurodani, 350, 355.

Kyoralshi, 277.

490.

Kiuroe, 384.

Kvosai, 79.

Kudamatsu, 413.

Kurogonia, 277.

Kyoto, 323 ; 9.

Kudan, 123 ; 114.

Km-ohime, 264.

Kyushu, 459 ; 416.

Kudarise, 297.

Kuroishi, 525.

Kyushu Railway, 476.

Kudo, 535.

Kiiroiso, 496 ; 495.

Kudoyama, 380.

Kurokawa (Higo), 467,

Kuhon-butsu, 141.

468.

Kuju, 388.

Kurokawa (lyo), 446.

Ku-ju-ku Tani, 226.

Kiiro-no-seto, 490.

Lacquer, 120, 267, 400,

Ku-ju-ku-ri, 221, 222.

Kuronota, 271.

504.

Kuju-san, 469.

Kurosawa-jiri, 501 ; 495,

Lagoons, 221, 222, 241,

Kukiuio, 289.

517.

429, 430, 503, 522, 548.

Kumagai (Musashi), 179.

Kuroshio, 437.

Lake Aoki, 297.

Kumagai Naozane, 78,

Kurozawa, 301.

Lake Biwa, 394 ; 247.

350.

Kuruma-dani, 317.

Lake Biwa Canal, 394,

Kumagai-do, 351.

Kuriinia-Omura, 432.

349.

Kumagawa (Higo), 488.

Kurmua-togo, 508.

Lake Chuzenji, 210.

Kumagawa (Koshu),

Kurunia-zaka-toge, 372.

Lake Hakone, 151, 158.

178.

Kurunie, 478.

Lake Haruna, 188.

Kmuaga-wa (Wakasa),

Kurumi, 446.

Lake Hibara. 507 ; 505,

400.

Kunisu, 389.

509.

Kumaishi, 535.

Kusakabe, 273.

Lake Inawashiro, 505

Index.

565

LAKE KIZUKI

MATSUO

mikado's empiee

Lake Kizaki, 297.

Maeyama, 464-5.

Matsuo-gawa, 454.

Lake Motosu, 176.

Magari-kawa, 386.

Matsiisbima (EQzen),

Lake Nojiri, 264.

Magome, 250.

417.

Lake Shoji, 175.

Magose-zaka, 391.

Matsusbima (Sendai),

Lake Suwa, 253.

Maibara, 247 ; 233, 405.

509-10 ; 499.

Lake Towada, 525 ; 503.

Maiko, 318, 412, 429.

Matsusbima (Sbinsbu),

Lake Yumoto, 212.

Maiaaka, 241.

285.

" Lakes " (Hakodate),

Maisavi'a, 500.

Matsusbiro, 261.

531, 533.

Maizuru, 400.

Matsuto, 407.

Language, 17, 530, 543.

Makkura-daki, 207.

Matsuyama (lyo), 445;

Lanterns, feast of, 461,

Makyu, 549.

444, 451, 453.

551.

Mamihara, 483.

Matsuyama (Musashi),

Lava stream (Asama),

Manazuru, 160, 161.

147.

18 i.

Mangwanji, 200 ; 199.

Matsuzaka, 305.

Legations, 111.

Manka, 546.

Matsuzaki, 165 ; 164.

Legends, 85, 104, 122,

Mano-no-ike, 443.

Matsuzato, 85.

147, 150, 155, 182, 198,

Mantomi, 412.

Mausolea, 115, 116, 132,

220, 241, 246, 249, 250,

Manzawa, 273, 276.

197, 200, 204.

261, 262, 276, 304, 312,

Maple Club. 121.

Mausoleum of Jimmu

333, 336, 338, 341. 350,

Maples, 114, 145, 196,

Tenno, 366 ; 365.

353, 356, 360, 367, 368,

212, 317, 333, 354, 356,

Maya Bunin, 52.

378, 389, 401, 423, 427,

371, 473.

Maya-san, 316.

432, 450, 467, 518.

Maps, 2.

Me-Alvan, 538, 540.

Lepers, 191.

Mariko, 143.

Meguro, 140 ; 112.

Letters of introduction,

Marisbi-Ten, 52.

Mei-no-bama, 477.

Marugame, 441.

Mendez Pinto, 459, 470,

Libraries, piiblic, 131,

Maruyama (Kyoto), 346.

486.

195.

Maruyama (Taihoku),

Mera (B5shu), 225.

Libraries, revolving, 47,

547.

Mera (Izu), 165.

136, et pass.

Maruyama (Tokyo), 121.

Mibiikawa, 284.

Lotuses, 114, 129, 475.

Maruyama-gawa, 403.

Micbizane, 56.

Lowell, Percival, 124,

Masakado, 79, 126, 147.

Micbino-o, 474 ; 473.

266, 286, 300, 520.

IMasald-gawa, 488.

Mida, 45.

Luchii, 543; 131, 202,

Mato, 216.

Mid5, 499.

485, 545.

Matoya, 312.

Midogaito, 284.

Luck, gods of, 55, 56.

Matsubara (Izu), 162.

Midono, 251.

Luggage, 10, 11 ; 3.

Matsubase, 466-7.

Mie, 304.

Matsuchi-yama, 136.

Mieno-toge, 473.

MatsiKla (Boshii), 224.

Mifune, 483.

Matsuda (Sagami), 158.

Mihara (Bingo), 419 ;

Matsue, 429, 430.

412, 413, 415.

MabecM-gawa, 503.

Matsuida, 180 ; 178, 181,

Mibara, volcano, 166.

Mabucbi,^8l).

189.

Mibaru, 497 ; 229.

Machida, 440.

Matsukawa, 497.

Miidera, 396.

Macliiyama-gucbi, 490.

Matsukawa-ura, 229.

Miike, 478 ; 466.

Mackay, Rev. Dr. G.,

Matsumae, 533 ; 529.

Mikaburi-yama, 278.

545, 550.

Matsumoto, 260; 253,

Mikado, reigning, 115,

Madarao, 193.

289.

334, 398, 420.

Madara-shima, 417.

Matsuuaga, 412.

Mikados, 66 ; 38, 58, 59,

Maebaslii, 179 ; 178, 186.

Matsuno, 273 ; 169.

60, 327.

Maeda, 423.

Matsunoki, 292.

Mikado's Empire, 2,

Maegasu, 303.

Matsuo, 429.

pass.

566

Index.

MIKAMI-YAMA

Mikami-yama, 247, 396.

Mikasa-yama, 362.

MiMzato, 391.

Mikka-machi, 299.

Mikomoto, 255.

Mikouchi, 215.

Mikuni, 406.

Mikuni-toge (Bungo),
483.

Mikuni-toge (Kdtsuke),
194.

Mikura (AMha), 240.

Mikura, island, 165.

MUne, Prof. J., 111.

Mimasaka, 429.

Mimitsu, 484.

Mimizuka, 340.

Minabe, 385.

Minami-dani, 425.

Minamoto family 72 ;
49, 58, 59.

Minato (Awaji), 428 ;
425.

Minato (Tenjin-yama),
226.

Minato-gawa, 315 ; 79.

Mine (Iwashiro), 507.

Mine (Yokohama), 107.

Mine-no-Yaknshi, 364.

Mineral springs, 152,
154, 161, 163, 182, 183,
186, 190, 192, 212, 218,
219, 220, 253, 317, 386,
403, 406, 445, 463, 468,
470, 474, 488, 498, 501,
502, 505, 513, 514, 537,
539,540, 547, 549, et
pass.

Mines, antimony, 447.

Mines, coal, 229, 424,
462, 466, 476, 478,
480-1, 537.

Mines, cojjper, 216, 447;
404, 446. 453, 508, 525.

Mines, gold, 267, 280,
404, 490, 525, 529.

Mines, manganese, 523.

Mines, silver, 267, 291,
404, 498, 509, 516, 525.

Mino, 244-5 ; 238, 288.

Mind, 317.
Minobu, 274 ; 81.

MIWAZAKI

Minokawa, 464.
Minoshima, 384.
Mint, 321.
Mio-ga-saki, 395.
Miomote, 518.
Mio-no-Matsubara, 236.
Mionoseki, 431.
Miroku, 52.
Mirrors, 39, 308, 364,

367.
Misaka, 453.
Misaka-toge (K5shu),

278.
Misaka-toge (Shinsbu),

302.
Misaki, 107.
Misen, 374.

Mishima (lyo), 449 ; 448.
Mishima Jet., 161, 162.
Mishima Nada, 411, 415.
Mishima-machi, 163.
Missions, 57, 548.
Misu, 385.
Misumi, 488 ; 466.
Mitai, 473, 483.
Mitaiiri, 423 ; 412.
Mitaice (Koshu), 269.
:\Iitake (Mino), 249.
ilitake (Musashi), 145,

272.
Mitake (Ontake), 300.
Mitamnra, 272.
jMitsumata, 194.
Mitford, A. B., 117, 121,

149.
Mito, family, 79, 124,

127, 222, 228.
Mito (Hitachi), 228.
Mto (Izu), 163, 164, 165.
Mitodani-toge, 403.
Mitoko, 417.
Mitoya, 430.
Mitsubishi Company,

460, 462.
Mitsu-ga-hama, 444 ;

413, 416.
Mitsukuri, 164.
Mitsumine, 177.
Mitsushima, 286.
Mwa, 367.
Miwatari, 305.
MiwazaM, 390.

Miya (Atsuta), 241.
Miya (Taguchi), 487.
Miyagawa (Ise), 392,

305.
Miyagawa (Koshti), 277.
Miyagi, 498.
Miyagino, 152, 153.
Miyai, 387.
Miyaichi, 423.
Miyaji, 468 ; 467.
Miyajima, 420 ; 412.
Ikliyake, 165.
Miyako (Kyoto), 326.
Myako (Kikuchu), 524 ;

523.
Miyako-jima, 544 ; 543.
!Miyakonojo, 484.
Miyako-odori, 325.
Miyamizu, 483.
IMiyanoharu, 468.
Miya-no-ichi, 483.
Miyanokoshi, 252.
Miyanoshita, 152 ; 151.
iVIiya-toge, 288, 289.
IMiyazala, 484.
Miyazono, 482.
Miyazu, 404 ; 401.
Miyodo-gawa, 453.
Miyosbi 430.
Miyoshima, 447.
Mizunuma, 218 ; 189.
Mizusawa (Ikao), 187.
Mizusawa (Rikuchu),

500.
Mobara 223.
Mogami-gawa, 519 ; 515.
Mogi, 462, 463.
Moheji, 531.
Moji, 424 ; 413, 471, 476.
Mombetsu, 537-8.
Momoishi-gawa, 503.
Momoyama, 357, etpass.
Money, 4.
Mongaku Shonin, 76,

390.
Mongol invasion, 59.
Monju, 53, 54, 401.
Monkey-god, 50, 52.
Mononobe - no - Moriya,

84.
Monto sect, 41, 43, 83.
Monzeki. 83, 133 332.

Index.

567

MOON TEMPLE

Moon Temple, 316.
Moon-god, 56 : 48, 57.
Mori (Bungo), 472.
Mori, Viscount, 309.
Mori (Yezo), 538.
Mori, family, 432.
Morimatsu, 453.
Morioka, 501 ; 4!)o-6,

517, 523^.
Moriyama, 465.
Morizane, 481.
Morse, Prof., 2, 110.
Mortuary shrines, 115,

116, 132, 204.
Moto-Aikai, 519.
Motojuku, 185.
Motomiya, 497.
Motomura, 166, 167.
Motona, 225.
Motonobu, Kano, 76, et

pass.
Motoori, 80, 305.
Motosu, 175, 176.
Motoyama, 252.
Mount Morrison, 549.
Mount SyMa, 550.
Mountain districts, 9,

13, 281, 287, 373, 408.
Muda, 374 ; 372.
Muen-zulca, 137.
Mugi, 439, 455.
Mugiyama, 272.
Muika-machi, 194 ; 193.
MukabaM, 483.
Mukade-yama, 397; 247.
Mulcai-jima, 419 ; 415.
Mukojima, 137.
Mukoyama, 153.
Murakami (Echigo), 518;

517.
Murakami (Shinshu),

190.
Murasaki Shildbu, 80,

398.
Murayama, 171 ; 168.
Muroran, 537.
Murotsu, 429.
Murozu, 413.
Mury5-in, 127.
Museums, 111, 123, 129,

140, 339, 362.
Mushi-yu, 187, 188-9.

NAGASAKI

Mutsuda, 374.
MutsuM, 416.
Muya, 439 ; 425.
Myoban, 488.
Myogi, 180, 189.
Myobo-in, 339.
Myojtn-ga-take, 157 ;

151.
My6j6-ga- take, 153; 151.
Myoken-dake, 464.
Myoken-do, 403.
Myoken-yama (Kazusa),

226.
Myoken-yama (Settsu),

317.
Myoko-zan, 264.
Myoshinji, 332.
Mythology, 37, 44, 431.

Nabari, 455.
Nabeshima, family,

475; 474.
Nabeshima, island, 414,

415.
Nabuto, 224.
Nachi, 390 ; 383, 393.
Nae-no-taM. 264.
Nafa, 543.

Nagahania (lyo), 451.
Nagahama (Koshii), 175.
Nagahama (Lake Biwa),

398, 4( 5 ; 233.
Nagahora-toge, 288.
Nagai, 194.
Nagakubo, 254.
Nagamine, 509.
Nagano, 2(51.
Nagano-hara, 190.
Nagano-toge, 165.
Nagao, 440.
Nagaoka (Echigo), 266 ;

194.
Nagaoka (Iwaahiro), 497.
Nagaoka (Omi). 246.
Nagao-toge, 160 ; 157.
Nagara-gav/a, 303.
Nagasaka, 501).
Nagasaki (Echigo), 194 ;

193.

Nagasaki, 459 ; 59, 417,
Nagasawa, 279.
Nagase-gawa, 505-7.
Nagashima (Kishu), 392.
Nagashima (Satsuma),

490.
Nagata-cho, 123.
Naga-ura, 106.
Nagayo, 474.
Nagoya, 241 ; 233, 2K6,

551.
Nagui-dake, 503.
Naiku, 313 ; 307.
Najima, 477.
Nakabata, 170, 171.
Nakahechi, 393.
Naka-iwa, 208, 50is.
Naka-izumi, 240, 285.
Nakamura (Echigo), 518;

517.
Nakamura (Iwaki), 229.
Nakamura (Tosa). 455.
Nakanojo, 190 ; 189.
Nakanomachi, 285.
Naka-no-shima (Hizen),

417, 462.
Naka-no-shima (Osaka),

319.
Naka-no-shiTku, 293.
Nakao, 291.
Nakasendd, 248 ; 179.
Nakashima (Inland Sea).

416.
Nakashima (OM), 432-3.
Nakatsu, 471, 482.
Nakatsu-gawa, 250, 302.
Nakatsugi, 518.
Naka-umi, 429.
Nakayama (Iwashiro),

504.
Nakayama (Kotsuke),

194.
Nakayama (Nambu),

503.
Nakayama (Shimosa),

221.
Nakayama-dera, 317.
Nakoso, 228.
Namamugi, 110.
Namari, 501.
Namba, 319, 322.
Nambu, 501, 511

568

Index.

Nambu (Fujikawa), 27'3

276.
Nametoko, 452.
Namie, 229.
Namioka, 522, 525.
Nanae, 531.
Nanairo, 374.
Nanao, 407.
Nanase-gawa, 470.
NanataM (Jakko), 207.
Nanataki (Nyoho-zan),

208.
Nana-ura, 478.
Nankai Railway, 322.
Naniwa, 319.
Nantai-zan, 209, 213 ;

198.
Nanwan, 548.
Nanzenji, 349.
Naoetsu, 265, 407-8.
Nara, 359, 356 ; 306.
Narada, 280, 281.
Narai, 252.
Nariai-san, 403 ; 401.
Narihira, 80.
Narita, 147 ; 43, 139.
Narusawa, 175.
Naruse-gawa (Iwashiro),

505.
Naruse-gawa (Nobiru),

511.
Naruto whirlpool, 428,

439.
Nashimoto, 163.
Nasu, 218, 219, 496.
Nasu-yama, 220.
Natsui-gawa, 229.
Natsushima, 108.
Ivaumann, Dr. E., 180,

520.
Naval College, 419.
Naze, 543.
Nebane, 286.
Nebara, 175.
Nebiki-zaka, 454.
Negoroji, 380 ; 338.
Nekko-gawa, 176.
Nekoya, 237.
Nemba, 175.
Nemuro, 539 ; 538.
Nezame, 251.
Nezunii Kozo, 138.

Nichiren, 80, 141, 224

274, et pass.
Nichiren sect, 81 ; 41,76,
Nicolai, Bishop, 124.
Niegawa (Chichibu), 177,
Niegawa (Nakasendo)

252.
Niemon-jima, 224.
Nigishima, 391.
Nigori-gawa, 277.
Ni-gwatsu-d5, 360.
Nihom-bashi, 126.
Nihon-matsu, 497.
Niigata, 267, 504, 508.
Niihama, 447.
Niijima, 166.
Niikappu, 537.
Niishima, 165.
Niitaka-yama, 549.
Niitsu, 207, 508.
Nijo Castle, 334.
Nikamura, 525.
Nikko, 196.
Nikk5 Bosatsu, 53.
Ninotaira, 153.
Ni-6, 53, et pass.
Nippara, 272 ; 178.
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha,

3, 256, 417, et pass.
Nirazaki, 276, 278.
Nire, 193; 192.
Nirvana, 41, 42, 54.
Nishi Kusano, 408.
Nishi Nasuno, 496 ; 218,

495. _
Nishi Otani, 343.
Nishikata, 490.
Nishiki-gawa, 422.
Nishiki-ura, 162.
Nishikori, 251.
Nishino Buntaro, 309.
Nishi-no-kyo, 364.
Nishi-no-mij'a, 247.
Nishi-no-omote, 486.
Nishi-no-shima, '132-3.
Nishinoto, 285.
Nishi-no-umi, 211.
Nitta Yoshisada, 81 ; 72,

103, 406.
Niwasaka, 497.
Nizaka-toge, 392.
Nobeoka, 483.

Nobiru, 511 ; 499, 509.

Nobori-betsu, 537.

Nobunaga, 81, 330, et
pass.

Nodori-san, 282 ; 281.

Nogata, 476.

Noge-yama, 101.

Noguchi, 295.

Noheji, 503, 525-6.

Nojima, Cape, 225.

Nojima (Musashi), 108.

Nojiri (Ise), 392.

Nojiri, lake, 264.

Noju'i (Nakasendd), 251.

Nokendo, 107, 551.

Nokogiri-yauia, 225.

Nomashi, 166.

Nomo, Cape, 466.

Nomugi-toge, 292.

Nonaka, I., 170.

Nonaka (Kishu), 386.

None, 455.

Nonojuku, 517.

Norikura, 290 ; 287.

Northern and Soiathem
Courts, 72 ; 60, 66.

Northern Passage (In-
land Sea), 415.

Northern Railway, 495.

North- Western Kyushii,
476.

Noshiro, 522.

Noto, 407.

Notogawa, 247.

Notsuhara, 470.

Notsu-no-stiki, 539.

Nozawa, 508.

Nozoki, 515.

Nozugawa, 164.

Nukui-dani-toge, 296.

Nukumi, 469.

Numakunai, 502.

Numasald, 503.

Numata, 215 ; 193.

Numazu, 236 ; 163, 165,
176.

Nunobiki (Kobe), 316.

Nunobiki-no-Kwannon,
184.

Nushima, 439.

Nuttari, 267.

Nyohoji, 266.

Index.

5G9

NYOHO-ZAN

OKINA-JIMA

ONGAGAWA.

Nyoho-zan, 208.

Ogawa, river, 240.

Okinawa, 543.

Nyoirin-ji, 373.

Ogawa-no-Yumoto, 214.

Oki-no-shima (archipe-

Nyo-i-rin Kwannon, 52.

Ogawara, 498.

lago), 432.

Nyorai, 53.

Ogidani, 511.

Oki-no-shima (Kishu),

Nyu (Koya-san), 376.

Ogishiina, 414.

256.

Nyn (Omi), 'd\}H.

Ogita, 525.

Okitsn, 236 ; 233, 276.

Nyukasawara-toge, 284.

O-gamo-tori, 393.

Okkai, 214.

Nyiiyama, 293.

Oguni, 518.

Okoba, 488.

Nyuzaka, 2()3.

Oguri Hangwan, 81,

Oknbo (Osumi), 487.

_386.

Oknbo (T6kyo), 144.

Ognsa, 474.

Okubo (Tosa), 454.

O-Gwannon, 127.

(^Irabo Toshimichi, 123

Ohara (Kotsnke), 214.

Okuni-nnshi, 53, 431.

0-Alcan, 538, 540.

Ohara (Kyoto), 355.

Oknra, 476.

Oami, 520.

Oharu, 483.

Okushiri, 534.

Oarai, 228.

Ohechi, 393.

Oknte, 250.

Obaku-san, 357.

Ohiradai, 152.

nkuwa(K6tsnke), 185.

Obama (Unzen), 4G3.

Ohito, 163.

Okuwa (Shimotsuke),

Obama (Wakasa), 400.

Oi (Doro-Hatcho), 388.

_ 219.

Obana-zawa, 515.

Oi (Mino), 250.

Okyo, 82, et pass.

Obara, 498.

Oigawa, 240, 281.

Omachi, 295.

Obasute-yama, 261.

Oishida, 515.

Omae-zaki, 255.

Obata, 525, 526.

Oiso, 109, 235 ; 84.

Omagari, 516, 517.

Obatake, 413, 422.

Oita, 470, 483.

Omama, 196, 218.

Obi Ginzan, 290.

Oiwake (Ky5to), 395.

0-Manago, 213.

Obiki-zaka, 391.

Oiwake (Shinshu), 184.

Omaru, 220.

Obonai, 517.

Oiwake (Yezo), 537 ;

Omazald, 525.

Obree Channel, 417.

535.

Ome, 271.

Obn, 233.

Oji Jet., 362, 365, 372.

Ome Kaido, 143, 145.

OccalU Japan, 124, 30().

Oji (Tolryo), 145.

Omi, 241.

Ochi, 454 ; 453.

Ojigoku (Miyanoshita),

Omi Hakkei, 394, 400.

Ochiai(Kosbu),272.

153 ; 151.

Omika, 228.

Ochiai (Mino), 250, 302.

<2iigolTO (Shibu), 192.

Ominato, 526 ; 525.

Octagonal Hall, 120.

Ojigoku (Tateyama),

Omine, 374, 373 ; 246.

Odahara, 177.

298.

Omi-shima, 415.

Odaira, 163.

Ojika, 521.

Omiya (Chichibu), 177.

Odaira-toge, 251, 286.

Ojima, 276.

Omiya (Fuji), 175 ; 168.

Odake, 145.

Ojin, emperor, 48, 75,

Omiya Hachiman, 143.

Odaki (Chichibu), 178.

130.

Omiva Jet., 179, 495-6

Odaki (Kazusa), 223.

Oka, 305.

178.

Odate, 522, 525.

Okamoto, 496.

Omizo, 400.

Odawara, 151 ; 101, 161.

Okawa, 535.

Omon-domari, 490.

Odera (Aizu), 505.

Okawara (Shinshii), 284.

Omono-gawa, 515, 516.

Odera (Awa), 439.

Okawara (Yamashiro),

Omori, 110.

Odo, 190.

306.

Omiira, 474.

Oenami, 427.

Okayama,418;412.

Omnro Gosho, 332.

Ofnjl, 273 ; 271.

Okazald (Awa), 439.

Omuro-zan, 162.

Ofuna, 235; 101, 108,

Okazaki (Tokaido), 241 ;

Omnta, 478.

233.

240.

Onahama, 229.

Ofunatsu, 222.

Oki (Inland Sea), 414.

Onamnji, 53.

OgaM, 245.

Oki Islands, 432.

Ondo, 419 ; 413.

Ogami-dake, 185.

Okina-jima, 505, 507.

Ongaguwa, 476.

570

Index.

Ongawa, 182.
Oni-ga-j6, 391.
Oni-iwa, 249.
Onna-taka, 284.
Onna-toge, 176.
Ono (Fujikawa), 274.
Ono (Miyajima), 421.
Onoda, 229.

Onogawa (Bungo), 483;
_469.

Onogawa (SMnshu), 290.
Onogoro-jima, 426.
OnoicM-toge, 483.
Ono-ike, 490.
Onomichi, 419; 413, 447.
Onormira, 534.
Ono-Niimachi, 229.
Ono-no-Komachi, 78.
Onsen (Unzen), 463.
Onsen-ga-take, 464.
Ontake, 300; 124, 252,

287.
Opening of river, 113.
Oranges, 384 ; 235, 328.
0-Kenge-yama, 296 ;

287.
Orio, 476.
Osaka, 288.
Osaka (Awa), 439.
Osaka (Lake Biwa), 395.
Osaka (Settsu), 319 ;
_247.
Osaka Shosen Kwaisha,

413.
Osaka-toge, 386.
Osaka-yama, 247.
Osaki-shima, 415.
Osawa (Fuji), 174.
Osawa (Rikuchu), 501.
Oshamambe, 538 ; 529,

535.
Oshima (lyo), 415.
Osbima (Kishu), 255.
Oshima (Luchu), 543-4;
_ 82.

Oshima (Suwo), 413,
_423.

Oshima (Vries Island),
_165.

Oshima (Yezo). 534.
Oshio, 509.
Oshu, 500.

Oshu Kaid5, 495, 503.
Oshuku, 502.
Osore-zan, 526.
O-sugi-dani, 393.
Osumi, 484 ; 82.
O-Suwa, 460-1.
Ota Dokwan, 115.
Ota (Hitachi), 228.
Ota (Nakasendo), 249.
Ota Nobuuaga, 81, 330.
Otagawa, 419, 420.
Otaguchi, 454.
Otaka, 241.
Otaki, 301.

Otani (Kyoto), 247, 395.
Otaru, 534, 535.
Otenjo, 374.
Otob'e, 535.
Otoko-yama, 356.
Otome-toge, 156 ; 151,

168, 235.
Otonashi-gawa, 387.
Oto-no-Miya, 104.
Otowa-no-taki, 344.
Otsu (Lake Biwa) 396 ;
_ 394-5 ; 247.
Otsu (Yokosuka), 106.
Ottate, 507.
O-U Eailway, 522.
Ouchi-toge, 403.
Ouchiyiima-gawa, 392.
Outline tours, 89.
Owaki dani, 153.
Owami, 218.
Owari, 242, 244.
Owase, 392.
Oya, 260, 254 ; 248.
Oyama (Daisen), 432.
Oyama (Sagami), 109.
Oyama (Suruga), 235.
Oyama Jet., 195, 495,

496.
Oyama-gawa, 524.
Oyodo-gawa, 484.
Ozawa-no-shuku, 213.
Ozawa-toge, 518.
Ozu. 451.'"
OzuM, 270.

Pagodas, 41, 43, 149,

POBCELAIN

321, 364, 371.
Palaces (Kyoto), 324,

326, 334, 335, 348, 353.
Palaces (Tokyo), 124 ;

111, 115, 122, 140.
Pappenberg, 460 ; 417.
Pariahs. 137.
Parks (Tokyo), 115, 128,

136.
Passes, mountain, 9, et

pass.
Passports, 7, 490, 545.
" Peak " (Hakodate),

530.
Peonies, 114, 321.
Perry, Commodore, 59,

60, 100, 106, 164.
Persecution of Chris-
tians, 60, 130, 406, 463,

465.
Pescadores, 549 ; 546,

547.
Petroleum, 266, 267,

508.
Phallicism, 390.
Pictorial Arts of Japan.

2.
Pilgrimages, 109, 110.

141, 170, 211, 213, 222,

240, 261, 300, 307, 365.

374, 375, 431, 441, 451,

452, 481, 512, 520, 523.
Pinan, 547.
Pine-trees, 396 ; 234,

318, 362, 401, 426-8,

509, et pass.
Piratori, 537 ; 529.
" Plains of Heaven,"

107.
Plum-blossoms, 114,

138, 306, et pass.
Poems, 75, 78, 86, 102,

150, 228, 360, 369, 382,

395. 503.
Police, 16.
Ponto, 539.
Population, 88, 100, 530,

546, 548.
Porcelain, 244, 304, 347,

395, 407, 417, 426, 427,

430, 446, 474, 475, 480,

485, 489.

Index.

571

Poronai, 536 ; 535.
Portuguese in Japan,

60, 459, 545.
Post-office, 4.
Praying-wheels, 134,

237, 262.
Priestesses, 38, 305, 307.
Priests, 38.

Prince-abbots, 128, 199.
Prisons, 140, 179, 478,

498, 531, 536.
Processions, 199, 336,

349, 353, 461.
Prostitution, 138-7.
Protestantism, 57.
Proverbs, 152, 196, 262.
Provisions, 9.
" Pure Shinto," 40, 308,

el pass.

Eai San-yo, 82, 419, 481.
Raiden-toge, 535.
Railways, 10, 11, 60, 110,

412, et pass.
Rakan, 53 ; 45, 138, 140,

225, 236-7, 244, et

pass.
Rakan ji, 482.
Rapids, 273, 285, 354,

386-7, 449, 483, 488.
Rausu, 539.

Red Cross Hospital, 122.
Regents, 70, 73, 124.
Reiheishi Kaid5, 197 ;

179.
Rein, Dr. J. J., 2, 300,

437, 459, 516.
Reizan, 345.
Religions, 37, 41, 57.
Rendaiji, 164.
Renge Onsen, 297.
Revolution of 1868, 59,

60, et pass.
Revolving libraries, 47,

136, et pass.
Bi, 5.
" Richardson affair, "

110, 485.
Riess, Dr. L., 460, 545.

SAHj kock

Rikuchu, 523.
Rikuzen, 498, 523.
Rin Shihei, 510.
RinMho, 549.
Rinnoji, 200 ; 199.
Roads," 10.
Rock Island, 255.
Rocking-stones, 191.
Rokken, 305.
Rokko-zan, 318.
Roku-bu-ten, 54.
Rokugd, 110.
Rokvi-ju-ri-goe, 520.
Rokuren, 416.
Russians in Japan, 58,

124, 460, 491, 539.
Ryo Daishi, 132.
Ryobu-Shinta, 40, 82,

329, ei pass.
Ryogoku-bashi, 137.
Ryoseki, 454.
Ryujin, 394.
Ryuzai-toge, 371.
Ryuzan-jita, 296.
Ryuzu-ga-tald, 212.

Sabane-toge, 515.

Sabayama, 423.

Sadamitsu, 450.

Sado, 267 ; 81.

Saga, 475.

Sagami peninsula, 107.

Saga-no-seki, 413.

Saga-no-Shakado, 333.

Saghalien, 539.

Saidai-ji, 364.

Saigawa (Kaga). 407.

Saigawa (Sliinshu), 261 ;
260.

Saigo (Old), 433 ; 432.

Saigo Takamori, 82, 485,
ei pass.

Saigu, 305.

Saigyo Hoshi, 82.

Saijo, 446 ; 444.

Saijoji, 157 ; 151.
; Saikyo, 323 ; 115.
I " Sail Rock " (Hizen),
417.

SAN-JtJ-SAN-GBN-DO.

" Sail Rock " (Yezo), 534.
Sai-no-Kawara (Kusa-

tsu), 191.
Sai-no-Kawara (mytho-
logy), 49.
Saitama, 179.
Sakai(Izumi), 322, 382-3.
Sakai (Matsue), 430, 432;

413.
Sakai (Mikuni), 406.
Sakai (Musashi), 144.
Sakaide, 414, 441.
Sakaime-toge, 449.
Sakamoto (Lake Biwa),

396 ; 355.
Sakamoto (Yamato),

374.
Sakanashi, 469.
Sakashita (Akiha), 240.
Sakashita (Ina), 284, 285.
Sakata, 520.
Sakawa-gawa, 151.
Saki, 392.
Sakishima, 544.
Sakunami, 513.
Sakura, 221.
Sakura S'^goro, 149.
Sakurai (Kazusa), 226.
Sakurai (Kisarazu), 226.
Sakurai (Yamato), 367 ;

365.
Sakura-jima, 486 ; 484.
Sakura-toge, 517.
Sakusa, 431.
Salmon, 14, 210, 540.
Samasana, 545.
Samban, 418.
Sambe-yama, 431.
Sambongi, 503.
Same, 503.
Sampans, 3.
Sanila, 399.
Sando-goya, 220.
Sanetomo, 102 ; 88.
Sangu Railway, 303,

304.
San-gwatsu-do, 360.
San-indo, 429, 432.
Sanjo, 266, 267.
San-ju-rok-ka-sen, 82,

et pass.
San-ju-san-gen-d5, 338.

572

Index.

Sanno, 53, 123, 355, 396.
San-no-he, 503 ; 495.
Sannomiya (Kobe), 248,

314.
Sannomiya (Nikko),

205.
Sanno-toge, 507.
Sano (Awa), 449.
Sano (Hakone), 235 :

160.
Sano (Temmyo), 195.
SanuM, 437, 440.
Sanyo Eailway, 412 ;

314.
San-y6cl5, 429.
Sanzai, 375.
Sapporo, 535.
Saris, Capt. John, 320,

417.
Sarufuto, 537.
Saru-ga-kyo, 194.
Saruhashi, 270.
Sarusawa-no-ike, 362.
Sariishima, 108.
Saruta-hiko, 54.
Saruta-yama, 462.
Sasago-toge, 271.
Sasakura, 439.
Sasa-no-toji, 463.
Sasayania, 399.
Sasebo, 474.
Sashide, 273.
SashiM, 488.
Sashikiji, 1G6.
Satake YashiM, 137.
Satow, Sir Ernest, 41,

et pass.
Satoyama, 502.
Satsiima faience, 490 ;

485.
Satsuma, province, 485,

489 ; 459.
Satsuma Eebellion, 485;

82, 483.
Sawada, 164.
Sawai, 272.
Sawara, 149.
Sawatari, 191 ; 190.
Sea of Japan, 400, 405,

et jmss.
Sea-gods, 56, 322.
Seasons, 8.

sessaO

Seba, 252, 260.

Sects, Buddhist, 41, 81,

S3.
Sects, Shinto, 38.
Sei Shonagon, 83.
Seido, 126.
Seimi-yama, 438.
Seiryo-den, 327.
SeiiTuto, 471.
Seishi, 46.
Seishikaga, 540.
Seitaka D5ji, 48.
SeM (Ikari-ga-seld), 522.
SeM (Ise), 306.
SeM (Mino). 288.
SeM (Yokohama), 107.
SeM-ga-hara, 246 ; 245.
SeMmoto, 158.
SeMne, 514.
SeMnoto, 449.
SeMya, 218.

SeMyama (Echigo), 265.
SeMyama (Uzen), 513.
Seko-no-taM, 163.
Semi-Maro, 395.
Semmaya, 524.
Sendai (Kikuzen), 498 ;

495-6.
Sendai (Satsuma), 489,

490.
Sendai-gawa, 488.
Sengen, goddess, 54.
Sengen-toge, 178.
Sengen-yama (Ikao).

189 ; 187.
Sengen-yama (Izu), 162.
Sengen-yama (Miyano-

shita), 152.
SengoMi, 156.
Senjo-ga-hara, 212 ; 210.
Senju (Chuzenji), 211 ;

210.
Senju (Tokyo), 227.
Sen-no-Eikyu, 83, 323.
Sensui-jima, 419.
Sen-yuji, 337.
Senzan, 426 ; 425.
Senzu, 166, 167.
Servants, 4, 7.
Sessho-gawara, 191.
Sessho-seM, 220.
Sesshu. 83.

Seta (Higo), 467.

Seta (Lake Biwa), 397 ;

247.
Setaka, 478.
Setanai, 535.
Seto, 244.
Setojima, 413.
Seto-no-uchi, 411.
Setsu-san, 550.
" Seven Isles of Izu,"

165.
" Seven Wonders," 280,

422.
Seza-wa, 284.
Shajo, 548.
Shaka Muni, 54 ; 42., et

pass.
Shaka-ga-take, 374.
Shakotan, 534.
Shakujo-ga-take, 208.
Shakusonji, 184, 260.
Shana, 539.
Shari, 540.
Shell-heaps, 110.
Shiba, 115, 116.
Shiba Eikyu, 111, 140.
Shiba-ka-wa, 273.
Shibetcha, 540.
Shibetsu (Kamikawa),

536.
Shibetsu (Nemuro), 540.
Shibiri, lake, 273.
Shibiri-toge, 284.
Shibu, 192; 191.
Shibukawa. 186 ; 179,

215.
Shibuya, 112.
Shichi FiiMijin, 55, 56.
Shichimen-zan. 275, 279.
Shichi-no-he, 503.
Shichi-ri-ga-hama, 104.
Shichi-ri-ga-iwa, 276.
Shichi-ri-ga-shima, 419.
Shiga (Kishu), 379.
Shiga (prefecture), 396.
Shigemori, 76.
Shigi-sen, 365.
Shi-ju-Magari, 429.
Shikama, 4C4.
Shiken-jaya, 371.
SMkoku, 437 ; 413-16 ;

Index.

573

SAIKONOPPE

SHIEATOBI-SAN

SHUZENJI

Shikonoppe, 532.

Shinji, 430.

Shiribetsu-dake, 535.

Shikotsu, 536.

Shinjiku, 112, 144, 269,

Shiri-sawabe, 530.

Shima (Ikao), 189.

271.

Shiriuchi (Mutsu), 503.

Shima, province, 312.

Shinjo, 515.

Shiriuchi (Yezo), 533.

Sbimabara, 465 ; 464.

Shin-Minato, 422.

Shiroishi, 498.

Shimada, 240.

Shin-no-Jofuku, 389.

Shiromizu, 469.

Shimaga-liara, 306.

Shinnyo-do, 351.

Shiroshima, 416.

Shimanto-gawa, 455.

Shinobazu, 129.

Sbiroyama (Kagoshima),

ShimasLima, 290 ; 288.

Shinobu-yama, 497.

485.

Shimazaka, 480.

Shinonoi, 2G(», 261.

Shiroyama (Takeo), 475.

Shimazu family, 485 ;

Shinran Shonin, 83.

Shishido, 162.

110.

Shinritsu, 451.

Shishigase-toge, 384.

Shimei-ga-take, 355 ;

Shinsai-bashi-suji, 320 ;

Shishihara, 276.

354.

319.

Shishin-den, 327.

Shimizu (Echigo), 194 ;

Shinta religion, 37, 302,

Shita Kaido, 250.

193.

430, et pass.

Shi-Tenno, 56; 54, ei

Shimizu (Kishu), 384,

Shinto, revival of pure,

pass.

394.

40, 79, 80.

Shittsukari, 538.

Shimizu (Suruga), 237.

Shintomi, 283.

Shizu, 209, 210, 213.

Shimizu-goe, 193.

Shin-yu (Unzen), 463.

Shizuki (Awaji), 425.

Shimmachi (Hyuga),

Shiobara, 218.

Shizuki (Mino), 249.

483.

Shiogama (JVIatsushima),

Shizuku-ishi, 502, 501.

Shimmachi (Kdtsuke),

509 ; 499.

Shizuoka, 238 ; 74.

179.

Shiogama (Shiobara),

Shizu-ura, 164 ; 163.

Shimmachi (Saiga wa).

218.

Shobara, 430.

261.

Shiojiri, 253.

Shobu-no-hama, 211,

Shimmachi (Shinshu),

Shiokawa, 508-9.

■212.

295.

Shiokoshi, 521.

Shobuta, 510.

Shimoda (Izu), 164 ; 162,

Shio-Misaki, 256.

Shodaiji, 364.

165.

Shio-no-ue, 279.

Shaden, 56, 136.

Shimoda (Nambu), 503.

Shio-no-yu, 218, 219.

Shodo Shonin, 198 ; 195.

Shimo-Gamo, 352.

Shiotsu, 384, 382.

Shodo-shima, 418 ; 414.

Shimohara, 288.

Shipment of goods, 13.

Shoguns, 88 ; 58, 59, 60,

Shimo-ike, 246.

Shirahama, 225.

69, 73, 74, 79, 81, 116,

Shimoku-zan, 387.

Shirahone, 290.

132, 238, ei pass.

Shimomura, 370.

Shiraichi, 413.

Shogun-zuka, 346 ; 324.

Shimonita, 179, 185.

Shira-ito (Aso-san), 467.

Shoji, 175, 551.

Shimonoseki, 424 ; 413,

Shira-ito (Fuji), 176.

Shokonsha temples,

416.

Shirakawa (Higo), 467,

123.

Shimonoseki straits,

468, 480.

Shonai, 519.

416, 423.

Shirakawa (Iwaki), 496.

Shooting, 13, 276, 530.

Shimo-no-Suwa, 253.

Shirakawa (Kyoto), 354.

Shoso-in, 361 ; 130.

Shimdsa, 220.

Shirakawa (Uzen), 517.

Shotoku Taishi, 84 ; 41,

Shimozato, 393.

Shirakawa, valley, 299.

59, et pass.

Shinagawa, 110, 112,

Shirakuni, 319.

Shozuka no Baba, 49, ei

196.

Shirane-san (Ikao), 191.

pass.

Shinai-numa, 499.

Shirane-san (Koshu),

Shubun, 84.

Shinano-gawa, 260, 266.

281 ; 280.

Shugaku-in, 353.

Shinchi, 229.

Shirane-san (Nikko),

Shumshu, 540.

Shinchiku, 547.

212; 198.

Shuri, 543.

Shingon sect, 41.

Shiraoi, 537 ; 529.

Shushu, 548.

Shingu, 389 ; 383, 393.

Shiratori-Ban, 487.

Shuzenji, 163 ; 162.

574

Index.

shCzu

TABATAMA

TAKAOKA

Shtizii, 450 ; 449, 454.

Suizenji, 480.

Tachibana-ura, 438.

Siebold, Ph. von, 474.

Suizu, 406.

Tachikawa, 144, 271.

SUk districts, 144, 179,

Sukagawa, 214.

Tada-ga-take, 400.

196, 253, 260, 268, 496,

Suketo, 438.

Tado (Ise), 303.

497.

Sukuna Bikona, 56.

Tado (Kishu), 388,

Skating, 8. 155, 531.

Suma, 318, 411, 412.

Tadotsu, 441 ; 413, 415.

Skeleton tours, 89.

Sumaki, 219.

Taema Fujin, 427,

Smoking, 11, 389.

Sumida-gawa, 137, 140.

Taga Jo, 510.

Snow, 8, 535,

Sumi-no-mura, 444.

Tagawa-yu, 518 ; 517.

Soami, 84.

Sumiyoshi (Kobe), 318 ;

Tago-no-ura, 236.

Sobo-san, 472.

248.

Taguchi (Echigo), 265.

S5butsu-yama, 109.

Sumiyoshi (Sakai), 322.

Taguchi (Miya), 487.

Sadoji, 385.

Sumizome, 395.

Taichu, 545.

Soga brethren, 84.

Summer resorts, 9, 11,

Taihoku, 546 ; 545.

Sokokura, 152.

158, 186, 196, 318. 463.

Taik5 Hideyoshi, 73, et

Solfataras, 153, 297, 298,

Sumoto, 426 ; 425.

pass.

463, 471, 537, 539, 540.

Sun-goddess, 44 ; 38, 57,

Taiko-yama, 156,

Soma-yama, 188.

307, et pass.

Taikyoku-den, 348.

S6men-ga-taki, 206.

Sunosaki, 225.

Tailors, 8.

Sone (Harima), 318.

Suo, 547.

Tainan, 548 ; 545, 546.

Sone (Kishu), 391.

Superstitions, 128, 139,

Tai-no-ura, 224.

Sonetaro <fe Sonejiro,

155, 202, 206, 292, 303,

Taipeh, 546.

391.

472, 512, 550.

Taira family, 432.

Sonobe, 399, 404.

Suruga-dai, 124.

Taira (Iwaki), 229.

Sonogi, 474.

Siisald (Tokyo), 139.

Taishaku, 56.

S5ri, 217.

SusaM (Tosa), 452.

Taito, 547.

Sorinto, 200.

Susami, 393.

Taiwan, 544.

Sosen, 84.

Susa-no-o, 56; 45, 392,

Tajima (Iwashiro), 507.

South Cape, 548.

431, et pass.

Tajimi, 245, 249,

"Southern Passage "(In-

Suttsu, 535.

Takaboko, 460,

land Sea), 415.

Suwa (see Shimo-no-

Takachiho, 486.

S5ya, 540.

Suwa and Kami-no-

Takada (Mind), 245.

"Special Ports of Ex-

Suwa).

Takada (Yamato), 365,

port," 304, 407, 538.

Suwa, lake, 253 ; 85.

372.

Spex Straits, 417.

Suwara, 251.

Takahama (lyo), 444.

Sport, 13.

Suwa-toge, 508.

Takahama (Wakasa),

Steamer Routes, 254,

Suwa-yama, 316.

400.

413, 414.

Suwo Nada, 416 ; 411.

Takahara, 507.

Steamers, 2, et pass.

Suwo, province, 423.

Takixhara - gawa, 298 ;

Stone slabs, 44.

Suyama, 172, 176.

290.

Strawrope, 40.

Suzaka, 192, 193.

Takahara-yama, 219.

Subashiri, 171 ; 170, 175.

Suzuka-toge, 306.

Takahira, 215.

Sue-no-matsu-yama,

Suzukawa, 236 ; 168,

Taka-iwa, 464.

503.

175, 233.

Takama-no-hara, 222.

Sugar, 236.

Swords, 13, 60, 241, 337,

Takiimatsu, 440; 413,

Sugaruga, 467.

364, 468.

418.

Sugawara, 180.

Takamori, 472.

Sugawara-no-Michiza-

Takanabe, 484.

ne, 56, 478.

Takao, courtesan, 218.

Sugita, 107.

Takao (Formosa). 548

Suiko, empress, 41, 84.

Tabata, 178, 227.

Takao (Kyoto), 356.

Suitengu, 56, 126.

Tabayama. 272.

Takaoka, 407; 299-

Index.

575

TAKAO-ZAN

TEA-MONET

THEEE GBEAT SIGHTS

Takao-zan (Kishu), 285.

Tamuke-yama, 360.

Telegraphs, 4.

Takao-zan (Miisashi),

Tamuki, 520.

Telephones, 4.

145.

Tamura Maro, 85, 343,

Temiya, 534, 535.

Takarazuka, 317.

et pass.

Temma (Fuji), 176.

Takasago, 318.

Tanabe (Kishu), 385,

Temma (Osaka), 321;

Takasaki, 179 ; 178, 186.

393.

319.

Takase, 478.

Tanabe, Prof., 395.

Temmangu, god, 56.

Takase-gawa, 481.

Tanabu, 526 ; 525.

Tempai-zan, 478.

Takashima (Hizen), 462;

Tanaka, 107.

Tempi-san, 228.

417.

Tanashita, 193, 215.

Temples, Buddhist, 42,

TakasMma (Yezo,) 539.

Tane-ga-sbima, 486.

198, 362, 375, et pass.

Takata (EcMgo), 265.

Tanegawa, 471.

Temples, Shinto, 38, 39,

Takata sect, 304.

Tango, 400.

241, 302, 307, 310, 431,

Takato, 284.

Tanigawa, 490.

et pass.

Taka-toge, 162.

Tanigumi-dera, 246.

Ten Province Pass, 159,

Takatori, castle, 366.

Tanosawa, 526.

161.

Takatori (Kobe), 256.

Tanoura (Kagoshima),

Ten Shoko Daijin, 45.

Takauji, 84 ; 72.

486.

Tendai sect, 41, 71.

Takayama, 289 ; 288.

Tano-ura, (Sbimono-

Tendo, 515 ; 513.

Takayu, 497.

seM), 423.

Tenga-jaya, 322.

Takazaki-yama, 470.

Tan-yu, Kano, 76, et

Tengu-mi-toge, 374.

Takazono, 439.

pass.

Ten j in, god, 56.

Take, 486.

Tanzawa, 109.

Tenjiu, temples of, 56,

Takeda (Bungo), 469;

Tarobo, 171.

138, 321, 329, 423, 478.

473.

Taro-zan, 213.

Tenjin-toge, 188.

Takeda Shingen, 84,

Tarui, 246, 245 ; 233.

Tenjin-yama (Kazusa),

191.

Tarumi (Harinia), 318.

226.

Takefu, 406.

Tarnmi (Satsuma), 485.

Tenjin-yama (Yamato),

Takehara, 419 ; 413.

Tarusaka-yama, 304.

367.

Take-no-uchi-no-Suku-

Tarutama, 468.

Tennoji, 321 ; 319, 362.

ne, 85.

Tasbiki Kwannon, 398.

Ten-no-kawa, 374.

Takeo, 475.

Tate, 534.

Tenno-no-Mori, 427.

Takeshita, 483.

Tateishi-zaki, 406.

Tenno-zan, 356.

Takihara Gu, 392 ; 308.

Tateno, 467.

Tenoko, 517.

Takimoto (Tosa), 454.

Tateoka, 515.

Tenryu-gawa, river 285;

Takimoto waterfall, 452.

Tateshina-yama, 278.

240, 281.

Takimuro-zaka, 469.

Tateyama (Boshti), 225.

Tenryu-gawa station.

Takino-gawa, 145.

Tateyama, mountain,

233.

Taki-no-miya, 440.

297 ; 287, 71.

Tenryuji, 334.

Takizaka, 156.

Tateyama Onsen, 296.

Ten-ya-zaka, 481.

Takko, 525.

Tatsukawa, 447.

Tera-domari, 266.

Tales of Old Japan, 117;

Tatsumi, cape, 484.

Terai, 406.

126, 149.

Tatsuta, 364.

Terute Hime, 81, 386.

Tamagawa, 271 ; 110,

Tatta, 3(hl.

Teshima, 414.

144, 145.

Tawara Toda, 397 ; 147.

Teshio, 536.

Tamaki-san, 388.

Tawara-zaka, 478.

Things Japanese, 2, et

Tamarai, 469.

Tazawa, 517.

pass.

Tamani, 305.

Tazura, 440.

Thirty-three P 1 a c e a

Tambara, 176.

Tea ceremonies, 77, 83.

sacred to Kwannon,

Tametomo, 166, 543.

Tea districts, 357 ; 238.

368 ; 246, et pass.

Tamon, 45, 56.

Tea-houses, 7, 16.

"Three Great Sights,"

Tamsui, 547 ; 546.

" Tea-money," 6.

11, 401, 420, 509.

576

Index.

TTDAI. WAVES

TOYOKDNI

TSDTAKI

Tidal Waves, 139, 164,

Tomioka (Awa), 438.

340.

523.

Tomioka (Kotsuke), 179.

Toyono ; 264, 259.

Time, standard, 16.

Tomioka (Yokohama),

Toyo-oka, 404.

Toba, 312.

107.

Toyosawa, 501.

Toba Sojo, 85.

Tomita, 195.

Toyosbina, 297.

Tobacco, 485.

Tomiyama, 510.

Toyo-iike-bime, 57.

Tobe, 446.

Tomizato, 451.

Toyo-iira, 423 ; 413.

Tobi-shima, 521.

Tomotsu. 418 ; 413.

Travelling expenses, 6.

Tocbigi, 195, 496.

Tonami, 525 ; 503.

Treaties, foreign, 60,

Tocbinoki, 467, 472.

Tonegawa, 49() ; 150,

539.

Tocbio, 266.

214", 215.

Treaty ports, 99, KM I.

Todaiji, 360.

Tono, 524.

Trees, sacred, 39.

Todoboldie, 533.

Tonobetsuri. 507.

Tsu, 304.

Todoro, 483.

T5noki, 277.

Tsubarai, 276.

Todoroki (Awa), 438.

Tonomine, 370 ; 246.

Tsubata, 407.

Todornki (Kisbu), 394.

Tonomura, 288.

Tsuboi, Prof. S., 121,

Todoroki (Kosbu), 271.

Tonosawa, 152, 551.

146.

Tofiikuji, 337.

Tonosbo, 418.

Tsuboya, 489 ; 486.

Togakusbi-san, 263.

Tora Gozen, 84.

Tsucbi-mikado, 439.

Togano, 193.

Tori Bussbi, 85.

Tsucbi-ura, 228; 222

Togawa (Tyo), 444.

Toride, 227.

150.

Togawa (Saniiki), 455,

Torigawa, 397.

Tsucbizakd. 522 ; 516.

Toge, 514.

Torii, i artists, 85.

Tsugaru, 522 ; 504.

Togi, 519.

Torii (gateway), 39.

Tsugawa, 508.

Toji, 336.

Torii-toge (Kusatsu),

Tsiige, 306.

T6ji-in, 331.

192.

Tsuitate, 488.

T5ka-icbiba, 270.

Torii-toge (Nakasendo),

Tsukawa, 463.

Tokaido bighwav, 234 ;

252.

Tsukigase, 306.

110, 303-4, 395, et

Toro, 540.

Tsulriji, 139.

pass.

Tortoises, 322.

Tsuldnoki, 498.

Tokaido Railway, 233.

Tosa, 437.

Tsukiyosbi, 250.

Tokimata, 285.

Tosawa, 162.

Tsukuba, 150.

Tokiwa Gozen, 76, 88.

Tosbijima, 313.

Tsukue, 429 ; 425.

Tokudo Sbonin, 368.

Tosbima, lii5, 255.

Tsukumo, 455.

Tokugawa dynasty, 74;

Tosbita, 467.

Tsuknmo-gawa, 159.

60, 116, 124, et iMss.

Tdsbdgu, 57, 121, 129.

Tsumago, 250.

Tokugo-t5ge, 288, 293.

Tosu, 475; 473, 476,

Tsunagi, 502, 509.

Tokusbima, 438; 437,

478.

Tsunomine, 438.

450.

Totomi, 241.

Tsnnomiya, 150.

Tokuwa, 305.

Totsugawa, 385.

Tsurayulci, 85.

Tokuyama, 423 ; 413.

Totsuka, caves of, 108.

Tsuribasbi, 273.

Tokyo, 111, 115; 9.

Tottori, 429.

Tsuruga, 4l 5 ; 233.

Tomakomai, 537; 536,

Towada, 525.

Tsuru-ga-oka (Kama-

538.

Toyaba-toge, 518.

kura), 102.

Tomari (Etcbu), 408.

Toyama (Etcbu), 408 ;

Tsuru-ga-oka (Uzen),

Toruari (Kimasbiri),

288.

519; 517.

539.

Toyama (Nikko), 206.

Tsurugata, 522.

Tonibara, 430.

Toyobasbi, 241 ; 233,

Tsurngi, 299.

Tombs of Sboguns, 116,

286.

Tsuruma-gawa, 507.

132.

Toyokawa, 241.

Tsirrusaki, 483.

Tomioka (Amakusa),

Toyokuni, 85.

Tsusbima, 491 ; 413.

465.

Toyokuni-no-Yasbiro,

Tsutaki, 277, 284.

Index.

577

TSU-TEN-KYO

VOLCANO BAY

WHALING

Tsu-ten-kyo, 337.

Umijiri (Shinshu), 278.

Volcanoes, active, 165-6,

Tsuyania (Mimasaka),

Unazawa, 145.

183,191,212,219,220,

429 ; 412.

Unebi, 365, 366, 37i

467, 486-8, 497, 505,

Tsuyama (Tajima), 403.

University (Kyoto),

352.

521,532,539.

Tumuli, 36r, ; 121, 323,

University (Tokyo),

126.

Vries Island, 165.

364,370,371,395,427,

Unkei, 85, 1(J4.

439.

Uno, 375.

Tuscarora Deep, 523.

Unomachi, 451.

Twatutia, 547 ; 546.

Uno-saki, 175.

Twenty-eight Followers

Unrin, 549.

Wada (ltd), 162, 164.

of Kwannon, 52.

Unuma, 249.

Wada (Kofu), 269.

Twenty-five Bosatsu,

Unzen, 463 ; 12.

Wada (Nakasendo), 254.

46, 121, 155.

Uomi, 161.

Wada (Wakasa), 400.

Uotsu, 408.

Wadahama, 443-4.

Uozumi, 469.

Wada-no-Misaki, 316,

Uraga, 106.

414.

Urago, 433.

Wada-toge, 254.

Uba-ga-mori, 371.

Urakami, 462, 473-4

Wadayama, 404.

Ubago, 155.

Uramachi, 504.

Wagakawa, 500.

Ubago-toge, 189.

Ura-mawari, 403.

Wakamatsu (Aizu), 504,

Uchinoko, 451.

Urami waterfall.

207,

505, 507-8.

Uchinomaki, 468.

209.

Wakamatsu (Chikuzen),

Uchiura, 223-4.

Urase, 266.

476.

Udo, 466, 476.

Urashima, 85, 108,

251,

Wakamiya, 277.

Ueda (Iwaki), 228.

400.

Waka-no-ura, 382.

Ueda (Shinshu), 260,

Urawa, 179.

Wakasa, 400.

185.

Ureshino, 474.

Wakasare-no-chaya,

Ueno (Iga), 306.

Urushi-vama, 518.

183, 185.

Ueno (Tokyo), 128 ; 116,

Usa, 47i.

Wakayama, 380 ; 365-6.

199.

Ushibuka, 490.

Wake, 412.

Uenohara, 270.

Ushibuse, 164, 236.

Wakimachi, 450 ; 448-9.

Uesugi Kenshin, 85 ;

Ushijima, 415.

Waki-misaki, 466.

84, 514.

Ushiku lagoon, 227

Wakino-sawa, 526.

Ugui, 390.

Ushikubi, 299, 300.

Wakura, 407.

Uguisu-no-yado, 502.

Ushiwaka, 88.

Wakuya, 499.

Uji (Yamada), 306, 357.

Usu, 537.

Wami-toge, 182, 185.

Uji (Yamasliiro), 357.

Usuda, 278.

War-god, 49, 75.

Ujina, 420.

Usui-toge, 181, 182.

Washi-ga-su, 518.

Uke-mochi-no-Kami,

Usui-zaka, 156.

Washiha-dake, 408.

57.

Utsunomiya, 496 ;

196,

Washing, 8.

UMshima (Katashina-

197, 495.

Washio-yama, 452.

gawa), 214.

Uwajima, 451 ; 413.

Watarase-gawa, 215 ;

Ukishima (Hitachi), 222.

Uzumasa, 332.

211.

Uma-gaeshi (I'Mji), 171 ;

Uzura, 534.

"SYater, 9.

169, 172.

Uzu-toge, 517.

Waterfalls, 176, 196,

Uma-gaeshi (Nikko),

206-7, 211. 246, 390,

210.

403, 438, 452, 469, 483.

Umeda Station, 319.

Weights k ileasures, 5.

Ume-waka, 137.

West Coast, 405.

Ume-yashiki, 138.

"Virgin," 462.

Weston, Bev. W., 169,

Umijiri (Hakone), 155,

Yladivostock, 491.

291, 294.

159.

Volcano Bay, 537 ;

329.

WhaUng, 255, 451.

578

Index.

Whitney, Dr. N., 5.
Wistarias, 114, 138, 359.
Women, exclusion of,

170, 211, 376, 512.
Wrestling, 113, 138.

Xavier, St. Francis, 60,
423, 470.

Yabakei, 481 ; 472.
Yabekawa, 478.
Yabigawa, 433.
Yabuhara, 252.
Yabu-ichiba, 404.
Yabuki, 496.
Yachi-gashira, 530.
Yaeyama, 544 ; 543.
Yagi (Awaji), 426.
Yagi (Ecliigo), 266.
Y'^agobe-zaka, 469.
Yagoshima, 507.
Yagura-zawa, 154, 157.
Yahagi-gawa, 240.
Yahiko, 266.
Yainai-ch5, 370.
Yakeyama, 532.
Yakeyama-toge, 292.

Y''akiyama-t6ge, 391.

Yakubo, 538.

Yakushi Nyorai, 57.

Yalaishi-ji, 364.

Y'^akushima, 486.

Yamabetsu, 540.

Y'amabushi sect, 481 ;
188

Yamada (Ise), 306, 393.

Yauiada (Rikiicbu), 524.

Yamada-toge, 192.

Yamadera, 515.

Yamadori, 511.

Yamagata (Iwashiro),
505.

Y'^amagata (Uzen), 515 :
513, 520.

Yamagawa, 484, 488.

Yamaguchi Onsen, 189

Yamaguchi (Suwo), 423,

432.
Y'amakita, 235.
Yamakuni-gawa, 481.
YaDianaka (Kaga), 406.
Y^amanaka Onsen, 506,

508.
Y'^amanasM, 268.
Y^amanobo, 296, 297.
Yamanokucbi, 484.
Yamashina, 247, 395.
Yamashii-o (Kaga), 406.
Y"amato, 365, etpass.
Yamato-meguri, 370.
Y"amato-take, 87 ; 59,

182.
Yama-utsuri, 472.
Yamazaki, 233, 356.
Yamura, 270.
Yanagase, 405.
Yanagawa, 478.
Yanagawa-toge, 391.
Yanagi-zawa, 283.
Yanagizawa-mura, 502.
Yanagizawa-toge, 272.

Yanai (Yanaitsu), 422 ;
413.

Y'^anai-gawa, 453.

Yanoshiri-toge, 295.

Yao, 365 ;'-362.

Yari-ga-take, 293, 287.

Yasaka, 56, 344, 346.

Yashima, 416.

Yashima-yama, 440.

Yashiro, 261.

Yasuhira, 88.

Yasui, 453.

Yasnmiya, 525.

Yatomi, 303.

Yatsn-ga-take, 278.

Yatsushiro, 480 ; 476,
488-9.

Yawata-machi, 476.

Yawata-san, 356.

Y'^ ear-names, 61 ; 60.

Yedo, 115 ; 111.

Yedo-gawa, 221.

Yezo, 529 ; 12, 14.

Y'^obuko, 416.

Yodogawa, 319, 357, 395.

Yogi, 426.

Yoiclii, 535.

YOSHrWARA

Y5ka, 404.
Yoka-ichiba, 176.
Yokkaichi, 304.
Yokobori, 194.
Yokogawa (Kotsuke),

181.
Yokogawa (Osumi), 488.
Y'okogawara, 446.
Yokohama (Musashi),

99.
Yokohama (Tonami),

526.
Yokoshiba, 221.
Yokosiika, 10<).
Yokote, 516.
Yokotsu-dake, 532.
Yokoyama, 520.
Yonago, 429, 432.
Yoneyama, 266.
Yonezawa, 514, 517, 519.
Yoriaido, 293.
Yoritomo, 87; 58, 59,
88, 101, 102, 204, et
pass.
Yoro, 245.
Yoshida (AM), 430.
Yoshida (Fuji), 172, 175,

270.
Yoshida (IwaM), 229.
Yoshida (lyo), 451.
Yoshida (Osumi), 488.
Yoshi-ga-hira, 266.
Yoshihama, 161 ; 159.
Yoshimasa, 88, 351, et

puss.
Y'oshimizu-jinja, 373.
Yoshino (Koshu Kaido),

270.
Yoshino (Yamato), 372,

373.
Yoshino-gawa (Shi-

koku), 448, 454 ; 439.
Yoshino-gawa (Yama-
to), 372.
Yoshino-yama (Kago-

shima), 486.
Yoshitomo, 76, 88.
Yoshitsune 88 ; 71, 373,

500, 529, et pass.
Yoshiwara (Tokaido),

168, 169.
Yoshiwara (Tokyo), 133.

Index.

579

TOTSUKTJEA

YUSAWA

ZUSHI

Yotsukura, 229.

Yumoto (Ikao), 186.

Yusbima, 403, 429,

Younq Japan, 110, 234.

Yumoto (Iwaki), 229.

Yushu-kwan, 123,

Yuasa, 384.

Yumoto (Nikkd), 212.

Yusubaru, 481.

Yuba, 157.

Yumoto (Tateyama),

Yuyama, 317.

Yubara, 193.

296.

Yuzaki, 385.

Yubari, 537.

Yti-no-hana-zawa, 154 ;

Yuzawa (EcHgo), 194.

Yubiso, 193.

151.

Yuzawa (Ugo), 515,

Yuda, 423.

Yunohara, 498.

Yudono-san, 520.

Y'^unokawa, 531.

Yufu-zan, 472.

Yunomine, 386 ; 82.

Yiu-ga-hama, 101.

Yunosawa (Karuizawa),

Yugano, 163 ; 162.

183.

Zaimoku-iwa, 498.

Yugashima, 163 ; 162,

Yunosawa (Y^'ezo), 531.

Zara-goe, 296.

164, 165.

Yunotake, 229.

Zassho-no-kuma, 476-7.

Yu-ga-taie, 472.

Yu-no-taki, 212.

Zempukuji, 122.

Yugawara, 162.

Yunotani, 468.

Zenkoji, 261.

Yujima, 280.

Yura (Awaji), 426 ; 425,

Zentsuji, 441.

YuM-ai-gawa, 104.

256.

Zeze, 396.

Yukuhashi, 471, 480.

Yura (Kisbu), 384.

Zojoji, 119 ; 115.

Yume-no-iikihashi,

Yura (Tango), 400, 404.

Z6-6-do, 372.

338.

Yujagawa, 400, 405.

Zoological gardens, 132.

Yumibari-toge, 372.

Yurappu, 529.

Z5-o-san, 498.

Ytuuoto (Hakone), 152.

Yurishima, 416,

Zozu-san, 441, 443.

Yumoto (Haku-san),

Yururi, 539.

Zuiho-den, 498.

299, 300.

Yusawa, 186.

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ADVERTISEMENTS.

Advertisements.

KATYUSHA

(Licensed Guides' Association.)

ESTABLISHED OVER TWENTY YEARS.

UNDER SUPERVISION OF THE JAPAN WELCOME SOCIETY.

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Address of YOKOHAMA office Address of KOBE office :

No. 76 Motomaclii Itchome. No. 163 Kita-nagasa-dori NicIioiue>

ITH the object of pro\dding every possible facility and conTenience
if to visitors to this country, we, the undersigned members of the
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Terms. Two yen fifty sen per day for a party of one or two : over
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Advertisements.

List of Eaiyusha
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YOKOHAMA.

T. ITO.

S. NISHIGOKI.

K. S. MATSUDA.

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H. MUTO.

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ITUATED in the FIRST POSITION on the
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m eiiUB HOTEL, LTD,

JVo. o-B. Bund, Yokohama.

Mr. and Mrs. A. H. CAMPBELL . . . Managers.

Late of the Florence Hotel, Kandy, Ceylon.

A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated in
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)) ^m

The Leading Photographer

YOKOHAMA.

Branch Studio.

KOBE.

Advertisements.

BRETT & CO., L'D.

CHEMISTS.

AMERICAN, ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND
OTHER CONTINENTAL PRESCRIPTIONS DIS-
PENSED ACCORDING TO THEIR RE-
SPECTIVE PHARMACOPOEIAS.

*-^

The Finest Toilet Articles by the best American,
Continental, and English Manufacturers.

No. 60, MAIN STREET, YOKOHAMA.

AYER'S CHERRY PECTORAL

For Coughs and Colds.

AYEE'S SARSAPARILLA

For Purifying the Blood,

AYER'S HAIR VIGOR

Strengthens the Hair

and removes Dandruff.

YOKOHAMA AGENTS

BliETT & CO. LTD.

10 Ad vertisemen Is.

Storing and Shipping Curios.

fOUKISTS will find it to their advantage to for-
ward all purchases they may make while in
the interior to

A RTHUR & ROND

38, Water Street,

OPPOSITE GRAND HOTEL,

YOKOHAMA.

Who tvill Store, make out Consular

Invoices, PacU, Ship, and Insure

any class of goods to all parts

of the tvorld.

N. B -MODERATE CHARGES.

90, Concession, Kobe, Japan.
52, St. Mary Axe, London, IS. C.

Ad rertisements. 11

i No. 24, 25, & 36,

I SAKAICHO. YOKOHAMA.

T [TELEPHONE No. 232.]

General Importer & Exporter.

Nos. 24, 25, and 32, Sakaicho, Yokohama, Japan.

ALSO MANUFACTUKEE OF ALL KINDS OF fe

Straw Hats, Shipts, Gollaps, Guffs, & Shirt Fronts

FOR LADIES, GENTLEMEN, & CHILDREN.

FINEST COTTON CRAPE k WHOLESALE DEALER IN

SILK SHIRTS ON HAND. '° COTTON CRAPES.

DEALER IN

Superior European Sundries,

Goods of the Best Quality and Moderate Pi-ices.

STRAW HATS A SPECIALITY.

Highest Medals awarded at the Chicago ^\'orld's Fair and Fourth
National Industrial Exhibition, Japan.

^-i^-

-^,s- *■»«-

Advertisements.

S. I. YAMATOYA,

SHIRT MANUFACTURER,

No. 6, Beiiten-dori Itcliome, YOKOHAMA, and

No. 245, Motomachi Nichome, KOBE.

Finest Cotton Grapes and Silk Shirts,
and lileckties

SUITABLE FOR SUMMER WEAR.

First ManufactQrer and Wholesale Dealer in Cotton Crapes in Japan.

Advertisements. 13

HENRY S. KING & CO.

EAST INDIA, ARMY, GIYIL SERVICE, & COLONIAL
BANKERS & CORRESPONDENTS,

65, CORNHILL, & 45, PALL MALL, LONDON.

Cotfespondetits :

KELLY & WALSH, Ltd., Yokohama Japan.
KELLY & WALSH, Ltd., Shanghai, China.
KELLY & WALSH, Ltd., Hongkong.

^SSrS. Jenrjl S. I^ing ^ C0. furnish intending Passengers
with complete information regarding the expense and relative
advantages of the various routes to different parts of the World ;
they will supply Plans, carefully select Berths, and secure Pas-
sages on the most favourable terms, particularly for Families or Parties.
These arrangements are made without any charge for trouble or corre-
spondence.

BILLS OF EXCHANGE on India, Europe, the
United States, and Canada, are purchased and sold at the best
current rates, and telegraphic remittance of Money made to all parts
of India.

-p-^ £, proceeding from CHIN.

Jr3,SSGI1 Q6rS japan to England

proceeding from CHINA or

via

AMERICA are reeonnmended
to forward their heavy Baggage to LONDON via
SUEZ, c/o Henry S. King & Co., who have engaged
for the convenience of their constituents Ne^Ar Sto-
rage premises with ample space and facilities for
warehousing Packed Goods, Baggage, &c., &e.

Advertisements.

PAID-UP CAPITAL

RESERVE FUND

RESERVE LIABILITY OF PROPRIETORS

$ 10,000,000

... $11,500,000

$ 10,000,000

HEAD OFFICE: HONGKONG.

CHIEF MANAGER Sir Thos. Jackson.

MANAGERS

Xj O IN" ID O 3Sr .

fSir Ewen Cameron, K. C. JUL. G.
(John Walter, Esq.

BI^^^TsTCECES-

Amoy,

Hambueg,

Manila,

San Francisco,

Bangkok,

Hankow,

Nagasaki,

Shanghai,

Batayia,

HlOGO,

New Yoek,

Singapore,

Bombay,

Hongkong,

Peking,

SOUEABAYA,

Calcutta,

Iloilo,

Penang,

Tientsin,

Colombo,

London,

Rangoon,

Yokohama.

FOOCHOW,

Lyons,

Saigon,

Hongkong'
Shanghai...

Acting Chief Manager:

H. M. Bevis, Esq.

Manager :

J. P. "Wade Gard'ner, Esq.

London Bankers— LONDON AND COUNTY BANKING CO., LD.

YOKOHAMA-INTEREST ALLOWED.

On Current Accounts at the rate of 2 per cent, per annum
on the daily balances of Yen 500 and upwards.

ON FIXED DEPOSITS :—

For 3 months 3 per cent, per annum.
6 4

,, 12 ,, 5 ,, ,,

All the Accounts of the Corporation with its customers in
Japan are kept in Yen local currency.

D. JACKSON, Manager.

Yokohama, October, 1900.

Advertisements. 15

Chartered Bank of India,
Australia, & China.

Incorporated by Royal Charter.

58, Main St., Yokohama. I 26, Concession, Kobe.

Paid-up Capital £525,000

Reserve Liability of Shareholders . . . £800,000
Reserve Fund £450,000

fHE BANK grants Drafts on London, the Chief Com-
mercial places in the East, the Continent, and America ;
buys and receives for Collection Bills of Exchange,
and conducts every description of Banking Business.

JOHN C. BUDD, Agent.

YOKOHAMA.

N. Yamhmoto.

JVo. 17, Honcho Itchoine, Yokohama, Japan.
\\\\i% Httit liTatf^hi^$t tit.

BED COVERS
WINDOW CURTAINS
WALL-HANGINGS
TABLE-COVERS

CUSHIONS
SCREENS
MANTLEPIECES
KIMONOS

Etc., Etc., Etc.

Our goods are fine and choice, and all our old pieces

were used by the old Daimyos or during

Temple Festivals in olden times.

16 Advertisements.

MIUSASHIY A

(ESTABLISHED IN 18S9.)

riiE mr mom

AND —

Finely Worked Jewellery A Speciality^

WORKS OF ART.

JVb. 60, Honcho-dori, Yohohcnna, Japan.

A. FARSARI & CO.

The Best Portrait Pliotogpapliers

IN THE FAR EAST.
18d Bluff f YoTcohama iCreekside], Japan.

Bromide Enl/irceivients

f\ SPECiflLTY !

PORTRAITS IN JAPANESE COSTUME OR IN "RIKI-
SHA," COLOURED LANTERN SLIDES, PAINTED PHO-
TOGRAPHIC VIEWS, ALBUMS OF JAPANESE PHOTOS
AND LACQUER FRAIMES. WORK FOR AIMATEUR
PHOTOGRAPHERS AT MODERATE CHARGES.

Advertisements.

T. KATA

IVIetchant Tailor ^ General Outfitter

"i i^J

LONDON, PARIS, & NEW YORK GOODS

ALWAYS ON HAND

OBDEBS EXECUTED NEATLY WITH THE GREATEST
CARE AND PROMPTNESS

A GOOD FIT GUARANTEED

Honoured with tbe distinguished patronage or the Imperial
Household Department

Yokohama, No. Id, Iloncho, Itchome

SAMORAI SiOKWAI.

JVo. 20, HOJSrCHO, YOKOHAMA.

[^/TITH a MOST EXTENSIVE COLLECTION of antique
^g^^ POKCELAINS, BRONZES, SILVER, LACQUER
WARES, and ETklBROIDERIES and NEW CURIOS

of every description, most cordially solicit the esteemed
visit and purchase by all ladies and gentlemen. ALL TRA-
"V^LLERS will find it to their advantage to send any pur-
chases they may make to SAMURAI SHOKWAI, as we store,
pack, ship, forward, and make consular invoices, and repre-
sent all the principal merchants in the interior.

Advertisements.

TRADE

MABE

NOZAWAYA

• * • * * i>

►^ & ■ ■

E.i^^

Yokohama, Japan.

Advertisements.

BISANSHA

No. 33, Houcho NicJiome^

YOKOHAMA.

\xi |)tjijclfj fid and ^m.

Enamelled Silver Ware.
Engraved Silver Work.

S. SHOBE

_xfi-^

EST'D 1859
HOJVCHO-DORI YOKOHAMA
MANUFACTURER AND DEALER

gM(BMOIBi:iIl

ETC., ETC.

Fine Assortment Always on Hand.
Orders Faithfully Executed.

PRICES FIXED AND STRICTLY MODERATE.

20 Advertisements.

K. KAWATA

No. 30, Itchome, Motomachi, Yokohama.

DEALER AND MANUFACTURER

Most cordially begs to return his best thanks to all the ladies and
gentlemen for their warm patronage, and hereby to assure them
that the newest designs in the shape of Tea Cloths, Side-
board Covers, Handkerchiefs, Pillow Shams, & Counter-
panes are always to be seen.

Best workmanship guaranteed at the
lowest possible price.

Y. KONOIKE,

DEALER IN

Japanese Solid Silver Ware.

Designs furnished and all orders carefully executed
by most experienced Workmen.

CUI\IO STOI\E.

]Vo. 47^, Honclio-cioi*! JsJanolxoiiie,
YOKOHAMA, JAPAN.

Advertisements. 21

All Shing* & Co.

JVO. 16, W^VTJEK, STREET, ^S^OJKOH^MiA.

A Few Doors from the Grand Hotel

AND

"ETJ IDOTJ"

SHANGHAI.

j Genei^al Tailoi^^ and %

^ Latest Styles in (lloths, China Silks, Etc., Always on Hand. -^

I TAILORS TO THE U. S. NAVY, ^

0> ' p.

K All orders Neatly and Promptly executed, and a good fit guaranteed. ®
5 ^m- DON'T FORGET THE PLACE. ^

'^ No. 16, Water Street, near Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Japan.

CHANG CHOW,

FROM SHANGHAI,

NO. 16 BUND, YOKOHAMA, JAPAN.
Near the Grand Hotel.

Naval Blue Cloth Always on Hand.
Oarries the largest stock of Oloth, Flannels, China Silks, & Crapes.

A PERFKCT FIT <.; VARAiVTEED OR WO CHARUE MADE.

Ladies' Dressmaker. I have the best Dressmaker in Jajjan.

22 Advertisements.

H. MaqfL^^u^ & Go.

ESTABLISHED 1877.

Forwarding Agents.

10, Bund, Yokohama

J- J^ :f J^ UNT.

Tourists' purchases packed, shipped, insur-
ed, and forwarded to all parts of the world.

K. KIMBEI,

Artistic Photographic Studio.

7, Honcho-dori, (Next to Town Hall), Yokoliama, Japan.

DEALER IN

AND

BEAUTIFULLY COLOURED MAGIC LANTERN SLIDES,
Photographic Silk Fans & Albums

ALWAYS ON HAND.

PLATINOTYPE AND OAEBONS OUK SPECIALITIES.
TELEPHONE No. 161.

Advertisements.

L. BOEHMER & CO

5 <S 28, Bluff, YoKohama,

FLORISTS, NURSERY-MEN, AND EXPORTERS OF JAPANESE
PUNTS, BULBS, SEEDS, ETC.

ESTABLISHED 1882.

THE ONLY EUROPEAN BUSINESS OF THE
KIND IN JAPAN.

Travellers in Japan are invited to call and
inspect our gardens.

All goods exported are of

FIRST-CLASS QUALITY and TRUE TO NAMES.

m YOKOHAMA IRiHY GO., LTD.

NOS. 2f-35 NAKAMURA, BLUFF,

YOKOHAMA.

LARGEST ESTABLISHMENT OF THE KIND.

LANDSCAPE GARDENERS.
ARCHITECTS, FLORISTS.

Cable Address

UYEKIGUMI YOKOHAMA.

Telephone No. 509.

GENERAL HORTICULTURISTS.

BOUaUETS, BASKETS. WREATHS, & OTHER ARTISTIC

FLORAL DECORATIONS. LARGE STOCKS OF

DWARF TREES, SHRUBS, BULBS, & SEEDS

ALWAYS ON HAND.

Specialty :— The Headquarters & growers of

LILY-BULBS & NURSERY STOCKS.

24 Advertisements.

f 11 lilMlK PiWMMPfiifi.

Corner of Benten-dori Nichotne, YokoJiama.

Celebrated Albums of Coloured Yiews and
Costumes in Japjin.

Beautifiilly coloured Fans and Screens, etc., in silk Photos ; Gold and

Silver Lacquer Photos ; Lantern slides ; Lacquer, Wood, and

Silk Frames ; Hand paintings, etc.

ALSO —

REPRODUCTION, BROMIDE ENLARGEMENT, COLLOTYPE, &c.

Out -door work neatly done.

Portraits taken in first-class manner in Platino-bromide, &c.
Price list sent on application. Inspection cordially invited.

AND

(ISEK AN)

ISEYA KANSHICHI.

NO. 27, OTAMACHI NICHOME, YOKOHAMA.

Advertisements.

^^ M/l^^

Sekido Shoten

AGENT FOR
MANUFACTURER OF

nmm^ soots, mn wm u.

ORDERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

No. 41, Benfen-dori Nichome, Yokohama.

TELEPHONE No. 244

Old & Modern Embroideries,
Artistic Drawn Works.
* * * Dress Silks.

ALL KINDS OF SILK GOODS.

Special attention is called to a Fine Collection of

JAPANESE TAPESTRIES k EllBROIDERIES

Consisting of

Wall Hangings, Screens, Panels,
Bed Spreads, Kimonos, etc.

o. 35f Watet Stteet,

NEAR GRAND HOTEL

Advertisements.

MAKUZU KOZAN

Member of the Imperial Ai*t Commission

FUJIYAMA SHIT A OTA,
YOKOHAMA.

MANUFACTURER & DEALER IN

■A

;jAINS

ORDERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

M:0D3ER,7^TI£I CH^^K-GS^ES.

NUMASHIMA'S

INE

RT tIXHIBITION

11, Kita-naka-dori Itchome, Yokohama, Japan.

Visitors are cordially invited to his various workshops.
One of the sights of Yokohama.

Objects of art and Bric-a-Brac.
Old and Modern Curios.

Beautiful collections always in stock.

SPECIALITIES : - OHEEEY WOOD CAEVED EUENITUEE

GENERAL WOOD CARVINGS. DECORATIVE JAPANESE
WALL PAPER (OR LEATHER PAPER).

ALL ORDERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

GOODS PACKED AND FORWARDED ALL OVER THE WORLD.

Advertisements. 27

Dr. T. KURODA,

8urgeon $)enUst.

ViVANTI BUILDIIVG,

Telephone 845,
irOKOHAMA.

OFFICE HOURS:

Q a.m:. to 5 f.]m:.

Mrs. K. Takemura

S S c§

% ' IM

Pi S '^

lii 0

OS i: 0

Advertisements.

TRADE I |»i MARK

F. TAN IK AW A

All kinds of Japanese Papier, Wall paper, Leather paper, Pictorial Enve-
lopes and Note paper, Fancy Cards, Hand-painted Pictures in Water-
Colours, Lacquer Picture Frames, Photo Albums, Oollotyped
Fans, Post Cards, Habutai, and Indigo.

Special orders ivill be promptly executed.
Address No. I, Minami Nakadori Itchome, Yokohama.

"^^.t.t^^r SANGO BROS.

Fine pl^m Depot. (Wholesale & Retail)
79 Yokoh.arQa, Japan.

( Opposite corner of the Chartered Bank of India,
Australia, <& China.)

ANCIENT & MODERN
ART WORKS IN
IVORY Carvings,
GOLD and other LACQUERS
SILVER and BRONZE work,
Carved wood FURNITURE,
HIGH-CLASS Table Wares,
SILVER and copper CLOISONNES,
Antique CHINESE and JAPANESE KERAMICS,
RARE PRINTS, BROCADES, KAKEMONOS, etc.

AGENTS for PACKING, SHIPPING, and
INSURANCE. All ORDERS wiU be
promptly attended to. Estimates
and Designs submitted for
all kinds of Work.

INSPECTION INVITED.

Advertisements.

ALL THE LATEST IDEAS IN
PHOTOGRAPHY. BAS-RELIEF,
BROMIDE, CARBONETTES,
VIEWS, ALBUMS, FRAMES, AND
PHOTOGRAPHIC FANS.

FOR AMATEURS

Developing & Printing
Promptly & Carefully
Executed.

CHILDREN'S PICTURES^
A SPECIALTY. ^ "^

-jjo-

"^^^^-^^-^^^ Highly artistic Photographs,

^^''^-"'^-^^ closely Resembling water-colour

Drawings are Guaranteed not to fade.

IRIDIUM VIEWS.

M. SHIMASAKI

i\ro. :Z7 HONCHO-DORI ITCHOME,
YOKOHAMA JAPAN.

mm]i wei^K § emb^bidei^y

OF ALL KIKDS DONE.

SILK PARASOLS, BABIES' DRESSES,
FANS, FOLDING FANS, PIN-
CUSHIONS, ETC.

OBDEBS PROMPTLY £ CAREFULLY FILLED,

Advertisements.

AMAKURA HOTET

( k: j^iHiinsr-iisr

2 ^ o ua

a> So

(SO P

o P

p ^

c+- CD

dJ CD

o
o

3 ?^

3= ^

CD P

TO ^^

p
p o

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3 ^ CD

— ^ 5.

«« ^ '^

g* ^

P -tj CD

■^ S

Kinkiro Hotel

ENOSH IM A.

THIS FIRST-CLASS and commodious Hotel is situated at
the highest point of the

Picturesque island of Enoshima,

and commands a magnificent view of the sea and surrounding
country. As a SUMMER RESORT, it possesses un-
rivalled advantages, since its splendid position ensui-es re-
freshing sea breezes throughout the hottest months of the
year. Fine sea bathing within easy reach.

Both EUROPEAN & JAPANESE FOOD

may be obtained.
CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE.

MIBU MASANOBU, - - Proprietor.

Advertisements.

liraPOLE

}

No. I, TSUKIJI, TOKYO,

B. BAY, . . . Manager.

Telephone : No. 400, Shimbashi.

HEALTHILY SITUATED.

(Within a Few Minutes of the Station)

Delightfully Cool in Summer.

Warm in Winter.

ROOMS EN SUITE.

BILLIARD ROOMS.

EXCELLENT CUISINE.

The only Hotel in Tokyo under

European Management,

Specially recommended to

Visitors to Japan.

Advertisements.

The Imperial Hotel,

i_. I nvr I T E ID ,
TOKYO, JAPAN.

5r<

s-y.

—--*»»»«

'^::?.-^

'-♦•up

" ONE OF THE FINEST HOTELS IN THE WORLD."

Cook's Tours.

But the One Hotel in the Far East in the Comfort it affords, in the

elegance of its furnishings and appointments, in the size and magnificence

of its structure, and in its efficient and Uberal management that can be

favourably compared to the famous Hotels of Europe and America.

The Impekial Hotel is within 5 minutes of the EaUway Station, and
centrally sitiaated -with respect to the chief objects and places of interest.

ALL COMMUNICATIONS WILL RECEIVE SPECIAL ATTENTION.
SPECIAL MONTHLY RATES.

Advertisements.

T. TODA

Lively Stable
Keeper.

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL PREMISES
TOKYO.

Telephone: Shimbashi No. 371.

=^Cosmopolitan3i^

Tonsorial Parlour.

(SHOKUKWAN HAIR-DRESSING SALOON BY K. OBA.)

UcHisAiwAi-CHO, Tokyo.

SPECIAL CONTRACTOR FOR THE HOTEL METROPOLE.

[■^/XE herewith have the honour of returning our best
"(Vy^ thanks to all the gentlemen of Tokyo and its vicinity
*^^~^ for the unprecedentedly warm patronage they have
favoured us with. In the short period since our opening
business, we have enjoyed great prosperity and reputation.
As we shall constantly adopt all the latest improvements to
promote the comfort and pleasure of visitors, we cordially
solicit a continuance of kind patronage.

Adveyiisemerits.

3^r«

Under Contracl with llie Imperial Ooverniiieiit of Japan for the Conveyance of Mails.

MPPON YUSEN KAISHA.

(JAPAN MAIL STEAMSHIP CO.)

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS *' MORIOKA, TOKYO.

Telephone Nos. 167, 1,551, 1,721, & 1,509 (Honktoktj.)
a. 1 & a. b. c. codes used.

HEAD OFFICE, TOKYO.

Capital 22Mm

Fleet 210,001) Tods.

European Liine Fortnightly.

American Lrine Every four weeks.

Australian lane Monthly.

Bombay Line Every four weeks.

ITokohama-Shangliai Line Weekly.

Kobe-Newrch-urang Line Every four weeks.

Kobe-North China Line Weekly.

Kobe- Vladivostock Line Eortnightly.

Shanghai-Tientsin Line Weekly.

Kobe and Otaru via ports:—

Eastern Route Thrice a week.

Western Route Weekly.

Kobe and Keelnng (Formosa) via Moji Four times a month.

Besides these, there are frequent services between the coast ports of Japan.

The Company's .Steamers carry the Imperial Japanese Mail, are sub.iect to periodical
inspection by the Government Marine Sui-veyors, and are registered in the highest class
at Lloyds.

For further information in regard to Freifrht, Passage, Sailings, etc., apply at any of
the Branches or Agencies as under, where full particulars on all points may be obtained.

Branch and Sub-Branch (!)ffiee8 at the principal ports in Japan, and in London, Bom-
bay, Hongkong, Shanghai, Fusan, Gensan, Jinaen, aud Vladivostock. Agencies and Sub-
Agencies at Niigata, Sakata, Naoetsu, Takow, Amoy, Swatow, Canton, Chefoo, Foochow,
Newchwang, Tient.<tin, Saigon, Sin<;apore, Penang, Colombo, Tuticorin, Port Said, Suez,
Marseilles, Trieste, iSIanchester, Glasgow, Antwerp, St. Paul, Seattle, Honolulu, Manila,
Thursday Island, TownsviUe, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Greymouth,
Dunedin, Lyttelton, Wellington, Auckland, Noumea, &c.

Advertisements.

T. HASEGAWA,

10 HIYOSHICHO, TOKYO.

Japanese AktisVic Bogies

?AMPHL.£T3/^^Etc. on Cf^?E

s<i OTflEB-^" \|^rNE T^Al^Ei\S

"^illNTED To

Japan ESE\
Akt-designs

fuiR^lSHEO FOR^fATAL-OGUES^

Advertisements.

List of Books on Grape Paper

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOURS.

c»««"'" SiW"''" *So». "O^- ' w ' ''<""°'.. d. s-

sc^^^rv ^-s. «os. .-^- ,„. p.. s. ^-'-

T. HASEGAWA, Puhlisher & Art-Printer.

lO, Hiyoshiclio, Tolcyo, •Tapa.u.

Advertisements.

Telephones 28 (Special) & 17 Honkyoku. (Tokyo.)

hfMkwik&mnim

BOOK DEPARTMENT.

14 TO 16, NIHONBASHI TORI, SMCHOIIIE,
TOKYO.

PUBLISHERS AND SELLERS OF:-

Hepbnrn, .1. C. — Japanpse-English
and English-Japanese Dictionary,
Unabridged, 4th Ed 7.50

abridfjed by the author

2.00

.30

1.50

Mntsn, H. — Japane.se Conversation
Course

Imbrio, W. — Handbook of English-
Japanese Etymology, 2iid Ed ....

Kdeki Mondo. — Written in " Hira-
gana.' By W Imbrie

Perry, A. M. — Five Thousand Phra-
ses (English-Japanese) for Com-
mon Use 1.00

Map of Japan for Tourists, Publish-
ed by the Welcome Society of
Japan

Eastlake, F. W. and Y. Yamada. —
Heroic Japan, a History of the
War between China Hnd Japan..

Ky lio Dr»Ya. — Translated and Edited
by Rev. C. S. Eby

MoUri, Y. — A Pocket Anglo- Jap-
anese Dictionary of the Spoken
Language 1.25

Treaties and Conventions between
the Empire of Japan and Other
Powers. Compiled by the Foreign

2.50
.30

Office. 2 vols (Japanese &
Foreign)

Coiider, ,J, — Floral Art of Japan.
Being a Second and Revised Edi-
tion of the Flowers of -Japan ....

Landscape Gardening in

Japan

Ditto. Supplement

7.00

10.00
7.00

Tatabe, Late R. — Iconographia
Florae Japonicae : or Descriptions,
•with Fiyures, of Plants Indigenous
to Japan, with 20 Plates.

Vol. I Part 1

„ „ Part 2

„ ,, Part 3

Satflh. H. — Agitated Japan, Revised
by W. E Griffis

Knapp, A. M.— Feudal and Modem
Japan , 2 vols

Maci'aiiley, C— Introductory CourBe
in Japanese

History of the Empire of Japan. —
Compiled and Translated for the
Imperial Commission of the
World's Columbian Exposition,
Chicago. U.S.A., 1893. SQk

.80
1.00

1.00
2.60
3.60

ALSO

SOLE AGENTS OF
ARTISTIC CREPE PAPER BOOKS FOR TOKYO.

Kindly note that all our Books and Publications can be
seen in our

SHOWROOM

ON THE SECOND FLOOR.

38 Advertisements.

The Welcome Society of

JAPAN.

Head Oflice : Tokyo. Brauches : Kobe & Nagasaki.

THE SOCIETY was organized in 1893 by the initiative of
a number of Japanese noblemen and gentlemen assisted by
several influential foreign residents.

THE OBJECTS OF THE SOCIETY are to afford every
advantage and convenience to foreign visitors to Japan.

THE WELCOME FOLIO containing the newest maps of
Japan and the principal cities, and also entitling its holder
to the privilege of receiving the Society's services without
any fee, can be obtained by subscribing 50 sen (25 cents or
one shilling) at the above offices or the agencies over the
World.

SHIMBASHI ST A TION ( UPSTAIRS )
TOKYO

European Meals at all hours.

ENGLISH & AMERICAN BISCUITS, FRENCH CON-
FECTIONERY, GROCERIES, PROVISIONS,
LIQUORS, CUTLERY.

CIGARS, ClCfiRETTES, and PIPES

AT LOWEST PRICES.

(Main Establishment at No. 12, Hiyosliicho, SMmbasM, Tokyo, Japan.)

Advertisements. 39

NAOJIRO HAIBARA,

No. 1, TORI ITCHOME, NIHONBASHIKU,

TOICYO.

MANUFACTURER & DEALER

IN
AND

VARIOUS KINDS OF PAPER IMPORTED FROM EVERY
COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.

TOIIil

NO. 8, SASUGAYA-CHO, KOISHIKAWA,

TOICY-O.

^VjaiT)S^ Jellies^ & Tir)r)^cl Fruits. 4""

The exceptionally low price and excellent quality of his manufactures have brought
orders not only from all parts of Japan, but from foreign countries.

^ A SPECIALITY SUITABLE

...-.^jx^ pQjj

BEEF

INVALIDS d- EXCUBSIONISTS

ALWAYS ON HAND

in Glass Pots enclosed in Tin Covers.

GOODS are delivered in Tokyo, free of charge : payment on delivery.
Outside Tokyo, packing will be charged for at the rate of 20 sen for
every 6 dozen or under, to any part of Jajjan, the fi-eight to be paid by
purchaser on delivery. Payment, on receipt of goods, may be made either
by Cheque or Post Office Order, the latter to be made payable at the
Komagome Post Office, Tokyo.

N. B.-BRANCH STORE AT MIYANOSHITA, ICHIKAWA SHOTEN,

40 Advertisements.

IVORY WORKS.

MANUPAOTUEER AND DEALER

G. TOYAMH

14, Higashinahadori, Jfichome, Ginza, Kyohashi-Jcu,
TOKYO, JAPAN.

ORDERS EXECUTED PROMPTLY & FAITHFULLY

WHOLESALE. . . RETAIL. . .

JOKO"

K. KOBj^YASHI.

FINE ART MANUFACTURERS

We have always on exhibition every kind of art objects.

INSPECTION IS CORDIALLY INVITED.

\y\/\y\^\/\r

No. 21, YUMICHO, KYOBASHIKU, TOKYO.

Telephone No. (Shimbashi) 359.

Advertisements. 41

UNDER THE DISTINGUISHED PATRONAGE OF H. I. J. IVI's. HOUSEHOLD.

TRADE ( %3>) MARK

S. NAMIKAWA & CO.

8, SHIN-YEMONOHO, NIHOMBASHI-KU, TOKYO, JAPAN.

MANUFACTURER & r f A I C n M W r \ir Jl D r C It^LAlD WITH GOLD
EXPORTERS OF CLOISONI^SE WARES, AND SILVER,

AND

TAKEMOTO'S UNIQUE PORCELAINS,

TTTE have manufactured these goods and dealt in them for many years. We began
' ' the manufacture of a peculiar kind of Cloisonne in 1880. By bringing out im-
provements from time to time, our wares have become noted for their excellence, and
have secured numerous Gold and Silver Medals at Domestic and Foreign Exhibitions.
Among the manufacturers, we alone received orders from the government lor Cloi-
sonne to be used in decorating the New Palace of the Emperor. Our Cloisonne Ware
Without Wires (tirst manufactured in 1889) secured a Gold Medal at the Third National
Exhibition, Prize Medals at the Fine Art Exhibition and the Competitive Exhibition
held in Uyeno Park (Toko), also the Grand I'rix at the Paris Exhibition and the Highest
award at the World's Columbian Exposition,

All orders will be faithfully executed, in any design

and at reasonable rates.

INSPECTION CORDIAIiLY INVITED.

TRADE IWfeiKM MARK

R. OKAIVIOTO.

NO. 3, GINZA SANCHOME, KYOBASHI-KU, TOKYO.

(Near the Shimbashi Terminus and all the principal Hotels.)

PHOTOGRAPHER & DEALER IN THE BEST COLOURED

PHOTOGRAPHS OF SCENERY, COSTUMES,

FLOWERS, ETC.

COLLOTYPES, BKOMIDE PHOTOGEAPHS, AND

MAGIC LANTEEN SLIDES.

Artistic Albums of every Description at moderate Prices.
Developing and printing carefully executed for amateur patrons.

42 Advertisements.

THE CELEBRATED JAPANESE |

I Via^l^

. . miKimOTO KOKICHI . .

PRINCIPAL ESTABLISHMENT

at Toba, Prefecture of Mie.

BRANCH

at Ko. 1, Oivariclio Itchome,

Kyohashi-ku, Tokyo.

MIYAMOTO SHOP,

NO. 17, SARUYACHO, ASAKUSA, TOKYO.

ALL RESIDENTS, as well as TRAVELLERS
IN JAPAN, will find it to their greatest
advantage to PURCHASE & ORDER SILVER
WARES of every description at our shop, owing to
their novelty of design, superiority of workman-
ship, and cheapness of price.

AN EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF NEW & OLD CURIOS

AL WAYS ON HAND.

Advertisements. 43

Fine Art Metal Wares
Bronzes a Speciality

FREE ADMITTANCE TO THE FACTORY,
WHICH IS THE LARGEST IN JAPAN.

TsiiE :PI^o:PIaI:ETOI^,

]SJ:r. C. SUZUKI,

has been appointed Artist to H. I, M.

NO. (12, AKASIII-CirO, NICHOME,

TsuKiJi, Tokyo.

^*s«..T*v^^^^

AND

ill? Ii@ If

- ONLY ONE PRICE -

KUHEI HAYASHI.

J^ICKOME, MUROMACHI, TOKYO.

Advertisements.

JAPANESE FANCY DECORATED

IVORY NETSUKE,

STATUETTES,

£S^

iO^

-El

METAL ARTICLES;

Manufactured by

M ARU Kl.

No. 6, Sukiyacho Nihombashi-ku,
TOKYO; JAPAN.

TELEPHONE.
Honkyoku, No. 549.

ESTABLISHED,
1847.

SHttiimit.

No. i6 Honcho Nichome,
TOKYO, JAPAN.

AND DEALER IN

All Photoernpblc & lilthoRrnpbic

Mnterinls & Chemicals. Mnnu-

fiicturer of Cameras, liitho-

graphic Machinery, Photo

Mounts, Christmas

Citrds, etc.

SHASHIN SHIMPO,

" The Photographic News,"J Pubh'shed

Monthly by the Asanuma Publishing

Department. Dark room free

for customers.

Advertisements.

M. NAKADA

MIYAJVOS HI T A

(NEAR THE FUJIYA HOTEL)

W.^& A ^£P)^^ 'M^!^.^n^^EJ

♦S«5f^^*£»?i^»' '*^S

LARGE ASSORTMENT

C CT K J O S .

INSPECTION C OH DIALIT INVITED.

WHOLESALE

. . RETAIL .

K. YAMADAYA,

MIYANOSHITA, HAKONE, JAPAN.
*

DEALER AND MANUFACTURER OF

EGG-SHELL WARES

(Front of FUJIYA HOTEL)

Aduertisementa.

MIYAN_q^SHITA

HOT MINERAL

S. N. YAMAGUCHI & CO., LTD.

SX-

S. SHCinVLJ^.

Artistic Photography.

_ Portraits taken in every size.

All the favourite views on hand, coloured and uncoloured.

Photographs of native costumes in great variety.

ALBUMS.

Enlargements carefully executed and Negatives developed.

MIYANOSHITA JAPAN.

Advertisements.

Y. MATSUZAWA

MIYANOSHITA

tits

%^i

FOR SALE

SILVER WORK, GOLD LACQUER, CLOISONNE, IVORY CARVINGS,
SATSUMA PORCELAIN, EMBROIDERY, TOBACCO POUCHES,
CARVED FRAMES, BRONZE & IRON WARE, WATER-
COLOUR PAINTINGS BY HOSHU (WATANABE)

&C., &.C., &G.

TO ORDER IN ANY DESIGN

AND

AT REASONABLE PRICES.

21^^ Saleroom at the back entrance of the Fujiya HoteL

(HflTV^YR)

DELIGHTFULLY situated on the shore of beauti-
ful LAKE HAKONE, this Hotel affords every
convenience and comfort to foreign guests.

EUROPEAN MEALS SUPPLIED.

TERMS MODERATE.

BOATING AND SWIMMING.

POST and TELEGRAPH OFFICE next door.

ISHIUCHI,

Proprietor.

48 Advertisements.

* At AMI Hotel*

•pj: -^^ en

i» o B

o B u

S- o w

i i§

FIHST-CLASS ACCOMMODATION,

Excellent Cuisine ; Moderate Charges.

The Seyser Spring of Japan,

which boils up intermittently six times a day, is
one of the great wonders of the world.

THE HOTEL, situated on a Hill near the sea,
commands a FINE VIEW, and the ROOMS are
well furnished. The locality is healthy, excep-
tionally mild in winter and cool in summer ; fine
garden, and sea-bathing.

SPRING AND STEAM BATHS ALWAYS READY.
O. HIGUOHI, Proprietor.

SHOJI HOTEL

(Address SHOJI, Yamanashi-hen)

THIS HOTEL is situated at the base of FUJI, amidst the
most charming LAKE and MOUNTAIN scenery in the world,
3,250 feet above sea-level, and is within a 4 mile walk of the
ICE CAVES.

® g b

^ O

B Oi

BOATING, SWIMMING, FISHING, ETC., IN SUMMER.
SKATING AND SHOOTING IN WINTER.

NO EARTHQUAKES, NO FOG.

Advertisements. 49

Trade ^ ^flu^ ^^ Mark

HIGETA SOY

MANUFACTURED BY

G. TANAKA,

cJ .A. 1=^ u^ nsT .

HigetaSoy dates from 1615 A. D. (Secoud year of Genwa).

Higeta Soy ia honoured with the distinguished patronage of the Imperial Houaehold.
Higeta Soy was awarded the superior medal at the World's Fair at Chicago, and
gold and other superior medals by the Home Exhibitions.

Higeta Soy has an excellent flavour and is very nutritious, being made of the best
kind of bean, wheat, rice, and table salt.

Higeta Soy has been analysed by the Sanitary Laboratory of the Imperial Govern-
ment as follows :

"This Soy is a transparent dark brown liquid with a specific gravity of 1.192 at
IS^' C, and it contains the following elements in every hundred square
centimetre viz, —

Solid matter 36.240

Total Nitrogen l.;^72

Glucose 4.520

Dextrine 0.000

Fixed acids (Lactic) 1.080

Inorganic salts 18.700

Sodium Chloride 15.844

Magnesia 0.625

Thus, this Soy has it.s constituents in suitable ratio, and is of a good quality.
Dated 27th day of December, 1897. (Signed) R. Tabara.

Chief of the Government Sanitary Laboratory.
(Signed) M. Yamamoto.

Assistant Chemist."
Higeta Soy, not being acrid, is suited for ladies and children,

Higeta Soy can be preserved even in hot countries, if kept in a dark place. This
fact has been proved by many years' experience.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE.

To flavour soup, add 1% of the soy to 70% of the soup. This should be done while
the soup is boiling, and as soon as the soy has been put in, the soup must be removed
from the fire.

To flavour meat, boil in water or soup, to which soy should be added in the propor-
tion of two of water to one of soy, and, if desired, some sugar. The meat must be
boiled sufficiently submerged in the liquid.

To flavour beef-stakes, etc , soak the meat in the soy for about 2 hours.

To flavour tish, soak for about ;J or 4 hours in the soy, then dry in the sun and fry.
The length of time required for soaking deiiends upon the size of the fish.

A good substitute for soup can be obtained by using \% of soy to 40% of boiling
water. This will be found both refreshing and an aid to digestion.

The above directions are given merely as examples. The Higeta Soy may be used
in many other ways.

Advertisements.

MAMPEI HOTEL

KABUIZAWA is situated over 3,500 ft. above sea level in the midst of
lovely moiintain scenerv, close to the celebrated Volcano of Asama,
and is an EXTREIIELY HEALTHY SUlSBIEPt EESORT.

Karuizawa is accessible either i)y way of the XaTjasendo or up the river Tenryu, and
also is within easy reach of the Sulphur Sprini^s of Kiisatsu.

K. SATO, Proprietor.

KaruizavOa. Motet

THE ONLY HOTEL ETJILT IN FOREIGN STYLE IN
KARUIZAWA.

THE HEALTHIEST

SUMMER RESORT I^^ JAPAN.

This fine new Hotel, witli first-class accommodation iu
foreign style, is situated so as to command a most magnificent
view of MOUNT ASAMA, the famous active volcano, and is
about 10 minutes' walk from the railway station.

The Hotel is managed on the best lines, securing the COM-
FORT and PLEASURE OF GUESTS. The CUISINE cannot
be surpassed by any other hotel here.

SPECIAL REDUCTION FOE GUESTS STAYING BY THE MONTE.

Ad vertisementSt

KANAYA HOTEL

ESTABLISHED 1871

First- C loss hccommodGfion

for Foreign Guests.

Visitors met at the Station on the arrival of Every Train,
only ten minutes' walk from the Station.

Z. and S. KANAYA, Proprietors.

THIS HOTEL has the only Telephone connections in Nikko with
the Station and with the

-If LaJCe Side Hotel 41-

CHUZEN Jl.

52 Advertisements.

NIKKO HOTEL

THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL IN NIKKO.

Beautifully Situated

EXCELLENT CUISINE

Comfortably Furnished Booms

STRICT ATTENTION

Best Billiard Table

VISITORS MET AT THE STATION ON THE
ARRIVAL OF EVERY TRAIN

H. ARAI Proprietor.

j.^* ««"^ "Of

CHUZENJI, NIKKO« ^

No VISITOR TO JAPAN should fail to see the most
PICTURESQUE SCENES OF LAKES &

MOUNTAINS IN JAPAN, which are to be found at
CHUZENJI. Being 4,500 feet above the sea, it is a
delightful summer resort.

All facilities for Boating, Pishing, and Tennis provided.
This Hotel has the only telephone connection with the

KANAYA HOTEL, NIKKO.

SAKAMAKI SHAW, - - - Proprietor.

A dvertisements.

SASAYA, KOBAYASHl SHO,

N I K K O .

One hundred yards East
the Red Bridge.

A bronze lantern stands at

the entrance on

the left.

All prices marked in plain

figures, and no reduction

made.

Fine Art Store,

Begs to announce to the foreign public that the pawnbroking business car-
ried on by his firm for over three hundred years has furnished him with
an unequalled stock of rare and beautiful art objects, to be disposed of wholesale or
retail at reasonable rates : —

PAWNBROKER &
CONNOISSEUR OF
JAPANESE ART
OBJECTS.

Inspection by foreign Connoisseurs respectfully invited.

GOLD LACQUER WARE,
WARLIKE IIVIPLEMENTS, OLD COPPER,
GOLD & SILVER ORNAIVIENTS,
CLOISONNE. FAIVIOUS SWORDS, IVORIES.
Choicest Japanese and Chinese
PORCELAINS, SCREENS, ANTIQUE

SCROLLS, Etc., Etc., Etc.

~l5^

^P HE origin of our honse goes back twelve hundred years, when its
^b founder resided at Yoshiuo-gori, Kyoto, being there employed in the
^■' Imperial Palace. Seven or eight centuries ago, the then head of the
family removed to NiMco, and some three centuries ago his successor esta-
blished a pawnbrolring establishment, which has been carried on uninter-
ruptedly ever since his day. In iSG'J, the present owner was led by his
artistic tastes and by the many art objects which came into his possession
from the pawnbroking business, to increase his capital tenfold. In this
manner, rare collections formed by various Daimyos and by the high-
priests of Shinto and Buddhist temples passed into his hands, and he esta-
bhshed himself in the art-curio business. Since that period, he has had
business relations with all the principal collectors who have visited Japan.
The late Sir Harry Parlf.es and General Ulysses Grant were among his
early patrons, and he has since being honoured by the patronage of
Princes and Ambassadors from almost every Western land.

Our Japanese proverb says that " He who has not seen Nikko should
not use the world magnificent." It may be af&rmed with equal justice that
he who has not visited our establishment can carry home no tcorthy present
from Nikko.

Advertisements.

T. ECHIGOYA,

rsi

DCr '^ !E

«. «. «t <Ri

T ECHIWA. "^^^

TAfJNER

DEALER IN

rUR515LIFPER5

DEALER E!^

FURS & SLIPPERS

O^ERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

TEADE

MAKK

Y. HAYASHI.

NIKKO, JAPAN.

DEALER IN

VISITORS ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO INSPECT MY COLLECTION,

AND

NEED FEEL NO OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE.

Advertisements.

EI. I^. OT J^LlKZIE.

P IWOPEPW WO^KS OF ^BT

NIKKO, JAPAN.

D. KOMEY/f.

EST'13

M. i

1870

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL.

DEALER IN ALIi KINDS OF

FflES and SMi^Pg^S

NIKKO, JAPAN.

Advertuements.

NAGOYA HOTEL

.^;-jv^

-C?

( ' ; i*»» r

Five minutes from the Hailivay Station.

Advertisements.

Shukinro Hotel

Sakae-chOf Kagoya, Japan.

THE SHUKINRO, recently rebuilt in OLD JAPA-
NESE STYLE, has long been celebrated for
its BEAUTY and EXCELLENCE.

THE SHUKINRO offers to foreign guests FIRST-
CLASS ACCOMMODATION and treatment in cha-
racteristically Japanese style, and with EUROPEAN
or JAPANESE FOOD at choice, accompanied by
KINDNESS, POLITENESS, and MODERATE
CHARGES.

NEAR STATION

NAGOTA

BEST

Foreign Accommodation

Advertisements.

x^^^""^ ^^^^

ANDO JUBEI.

CQANUFAGTUr^EI^ OP AND DEALEI^

ARTisTie mmmi work.

PATRONISED BY THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD.

CHIEF ESTABLISHMENT at

No. 110, Tamaya-cho Shichome, Nagoya.

BRANCH at No. 1, MotosiiMya-cli5 Shicho-me, KyobasM-ku, Tokyo.

Telephone No. 1023, Shimbashi.

SUZUKI, HONDA & GO.

Tine Gloisonne

Manufactory .

All Orders promptly executed.
Shinyanagicho Nichome,

Advertisements. 59

KINDAYU HOTEL

IKAO, JOSHU.

HAS BEST ACCOMMODATION for the reception of Foreign
Visitors. The liooms are large, and arranged so as to
command views of tine natural scenery.

In this Hotel, everything is kept clean and neat.

Provisions are daily supplied fresh and pure.

Win es, Spirits and Beer of the Best Bran ds.

HOT SPRING BATHS READY AT ANY MINUTE.

Charges Exceedingly Moderate.

Foreign Tourists & others are respectfully invited to visit the above Hotel.

I beg to inform the public that the establishment known as
the MURAMATSU HOTEL has been made over to me, and
that business has now been commenced.

K. KIGURE, Proprietor.

FUJiyH HOTEL (Tifoku-ban

With branch at Yoshida Station.

ELECfiNT fiPflRTmEUTS,
COMPLETELY FURNISHED,
SPLENDID VIEWS.

Patronised by Theie Impeeial Highnesses Peince

Kita-Shieakawa, Peince Komatsu, Peince Aeisu-

GAWA, Peince Kan-in, and Peince Kwacho.

Advertisements.

I_. I jVE I T E 3D .
TOKIMATA, SHIMO-INAGOEI, PEOVINOE OF SHINSHU, JAPAN.

n^HE HEADQUARTERS OF THIS COMPANY are located
^ 5 miles to the south of the village of Tokimata. The
Company undertakes the TRANSPORT OF PASSENGERS
AND GOODS clown the TENRYU-GAWA to NAKANO-
MACBDL on the TOKAIDO, no effort being spared to secure
COMFORT and SAFETY, while the panorama of this rocky
valley, celebrated throughout the world, may be enjoyed
during the passage, and is certain to delight every traveller,
especially all true lovers of nature.

Tlie entire journey occupies but a single day.

RUSH

IIDA, PROVINCE OF SHIN SHU.

This FIRST-CLASS HOTEL offers every

convenience and facility to travellers

bound for the Rapids of the Tenryu-

gawa.

Saui^ayana^i SoKichi,

Proprietor.

Advertisements. 6l!-

SHOaODO HOTEL

IMa, Province of Shins hu, Japan.
OTA TOTARO, - - PROPRIETOR.

'T^HIS HOTEL, whicli occupies a quiet site away from the
-■- noise of the town, contains a large number of NEWLY
BUILT EOOMS for guests. It is HANDSOMELY FUK-
NISHED, commands BEAUTIFUL VIEWS, and enjoys all
the FRESH BREEZES. Travellers are treated with GREAT
ATTENTION and POLITENESS, and those bound down the
RAPIDS OF THE TENRYU-OAWA will find it a specially
convenient starting-point, as the place of embarkation is only
5 miles distant to the South, and may be reached in 1 hour
by jinrikisha.

Yamada Hotel

{UNI-KWAN\ ISE.

(sM^E beg to inform the Public that OUR HOTEL is
"^ situated in the centre of the holy, SACRED PLACE

OF YAMADA, ISE, commanding the most magnificent

views of the place. No Hotel in the interior can equal

our excellent cuisine, strict attention, clean and

airy rooms. The NAIKU and GEKU are within a short
walk, the jinrikisha excursion to FUTAMI, ASAMA-YAMA,
TOBA, and HIYORI-YAMA, is most enjoyable ; while the
Ise Ondo dancing will make your evening very agreeable.

62 Advertisements.

GONIKWAIKWAN HOTEL

5 Minutes' drive from Yaxaada, Station, Ise.

rpHIS FINE HOTEL is situated on a hiU, surrounded by
most picturesque views, and near the SHRINES of ISE.
The ROOMS a.re well-furnished in European style, affording
cheerful accommodation. The CUISINE, both European
and Japanese, is excellent and cheap, and the aim of
the management is to provide for the comfort and pleasure
of guests.

Bazaar attached, for the exhibition and

sale of local products.

ABUKAYA HOTEL

FUBUICHI, ISE.

ELEGANT BUILDING,

Beautiful Garden Purely Japanese.

SITUATED IN THE HIGHEST PART OF THE TOWN.

BOOMS BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED WITH

OLD PAINTINGS.

THE STAGE FOR THE ISE ONDO DANCE STILIi

EXISTS WITH HISTORICAL RELICS OF THE

CELEBRATED DRAMA.

S. ABURAYA. Proprietor.

Advertisements. 63

Daito-kwan Hote^

SHIZUOKA.

FliST-CLASS

TERMS MODERATE.

This Hotel has the best position in Shizuoka, only 3 minutes'
walk from the Kailway Station.

Sit

TRADE rag MARK

S. IJOMAI,

MANUFACTURER OF

DAMASCENE WARES.

Inlaid Work of Gold & Silver on Metal Ware.

No. 70, Shinmonzen,

KYOTO.

VISITORS ARE COR,I>IAIL.L.l*r II>3VlTE3i:>

64; Advertisements.

The Oriental Hotel,

iVo. 80, KYO-MACHI, & No, 87, WAKA-MACHI.

THE ONE FIRST-GLASS

HOTEL OF KOBE.

EUDYARD KIPLING, in his popular work " From
Sea To Sea," writes of this world-renowned house
as follows : —

" A house where you can dine Do not

merely feed you If the Pioneer were a

medium for puffs, I would write a leading article
upon your potato salad, your beefsteaks, your fried
fish, and your staff of highly trained Japanese ser-
vants in blue tights, who looked like so many small
Hamlets without the velvet cloak, and who obeyed
the unspoken wish. No, it should be a poem, a
ballad of good living. I have eaten curries of the
rarest at the Oriental at Penang, the turtle steaks
at Raffles at Singapore still live in my regretful
memory, and they gave me chicken liver and suck-
ing pig in the Victoria at Hongkong which I will
always extol. But the ORIENTAL at KOBE
was !)etter than all three. Remember this, and so
shall you who come after slide round a quarter of
the world upon a sleek and contented stomach."

Advertisements. 65

K & K K & K

YOKOHAMA KOBE

37, Water Streat No. 81.

Opposite the " GRAND HOTEL " Opposite the " ORIENTAL HOTEL '

K & K

STANDS FOR

KUHN &KOMOR

OPPOSITE THE "ORIEMTAIi HOTEL"

Great Specialities of all Classes of Antique and Modern

IVORY, PORCELAIN, SILKS, LACQUER WARE,

GOLD & SILVER ORNAMENTS, CLOISONNE,

CABINETS, ETC. ETC.

K&K

Have the best packers, and warrant goods to arrive
at destination in GOOD ORDER.

English spoken.

On parle Francais,

Man spricht Deutsch,

Magyarul beszelunk.

K & K K & K

HONGKONG SHANGHAI

TJnder the 2 Nanking Road

"HONKONG HOTEL" "CENTRAL HOTEL BUILDING"

66 Advertisements.

H.E.Reynell&Co.

14, FOREIGN CONCESSION, KOBE, JAPAN.

MANAGING AGENTS

MHE only mineral water of the Orient which received the
highest award and diploma at the World's Fair Colum-
bian Exposition, 1893. This sparkling mineral water is
bottled in its natural state at the springs, and put up in cases
of 4 dozen each Pints and Quarts. The managing Agents
beg to warn the public against the piratical imitations of so-
called Hirano Waters, which are constantly being put on the
market to deceive people.

Shippers and the trade supplied.

Prices forwarded on application.

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL

WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS

Always on Hand Large Stocks of

Champasfnes, Btandies,

Whiskies, HocRs,

Burgundies* Liqueurs*

Stout, Ale, etc., etc.
H. S. REYNULL & CO.

14, FOREIGN CONCESSION, KOBE, JAPAN,
and SHANGHAI, CHINA.

Advertisements.

The most palatable and
wholesome natural min-
eral water known.
Sole Proprietor.

J. CLIFFORD WILKINSON.
Kobe^ Japan.

rrHE world-famed TANSAN can be drunk free at the

springs, which are 1^ hour by rail from Kobe. There

is a very comfortable Hotel with Natural Iron Mineral Baths,
lovely scenery, and a first-class cuisine and cellar.

BOOK TO TAKARADZUKA STATION

FIVE MINUTES FROM THE SPRINGS.

TANSAN can be obtained on all First-class Steamers, and at
all good Hotels & Bars throughout the East.

'68 Advertisements.

J. L THOMPSON & GO.

PHARMACEUTICAL

AND

ANALYTICAL CHEMISTS.

The only establishment in KOBE where prescriptions are compounded
according to British, American, and Continental pharmacopoeias by

QUALIFIED CHEMISTS.

PATENT MEDICINES & PERFUMERY.

Ladies' Toilet Articles,

Smokers' requisites of

every description.

ALL KINDS OF CIGARS, TOBACCOS, & CIGARETTES.

EOOKg ON mm, NOVELL, gTlTIONERY.
Sole Agents for MURRAY'S GUIDE.

O, NiSnl MaChi, | hongkong& shanghai bank! KOBE.
Agents for KELLY & WALSH, Ltd.

Adv&)^tisemerds. 69

BAN KINZAN

POBe'ilLAIH PAIMTF"

)^\m

PAINTING DELICATELY EXECUTED ON SATSUMA

WARE TO ORDER, SUCH AS BIRDS, FLOWERS, AND

LANDSCAPES. GENUINE JAPANESE FINE ART

OBJECTS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.

240 Yds. South of the Spring Bath

Jiwiwbiki Tahimichi (Westerji side)

KOBE, JAPAN.

HAM ADA'S
J^INE j^RT DEPOT.

Invite Inspection of their varied & choice selection of\

JAPANESE WORKS OF ART.

-x-

All articles marked in plain figures at fixed prices.

OPEN
DAILY
8 A.M.
TILL
6 P.M.

128 & 129 Motomachi Sanchome KOBE.

70 Advertisements.

KYOTO HOTEL,

KYOTO, ja:pj^n.

THE LEADING HOTEL
IN KYOTO.

This Strictly First-Class Hotel

COMMANDS A

MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE PICTURESQUE MOUN-
TAINS AND SURROUNDING SCENERY,

WILL BE FOUND A COOL & PLEASANT RE-
SIDENCE DURING THE HEAT OF SUMMER.

The Building being of Brick, and the rooms

UNUSUALLY LARGE AND WELL VENTILATED,

THIS HOTEL OFFERS SUPEEIOR ATTRACTIONS.
TSIE GTJISIIsrEl

is in charge of a well-qualified chef, & satisfaction is guaranteed.

English spoken in all Departments.

GUIDES CAN BE ENGAGED AT ALL TIMES.

K. INOU7IS, - - Proprietor.

Advertisements. 71

YAAMI HOTEL

MARUYAMA,

KYOTO, NIPPON.

THIS OLD-ESTABLISHED &

FAVOURITE HOTEL

AFFORDS EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION.

It occupies a COOL and HEALTHY SITUATION on the
flank of the MARUYAMA HILL, commanding

MAGNIFICENT PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE WHOLE CITY

AND NEIGHBOURHOOD.

ILL TSE ROOMS IRE WELL VENTILATED k KOIFORTIBLI

FURNISHED IN EUROPEAN STYLE.

Baths can be obtained at all hours, and the strictest attention
is paid to sanitary requirements.

Many of the most celebrated Temples and other chief sights
of this ANCIENT METROPOLIS are in the immediate vicini-
ty, and there are charming walks in various directions.

Travellers announcing the exact time of their arrival by
letter or telegram, will be met by an Interpreter at the Rail-
way Station and their luggage carefully looked after.

Guides speaking English may be engaged.

Also Meals served to order at all hours.
The CUISINE is in the hands of an EXPERIENCED CHEF.

M. INOUYE .... Proprietor and Manager.

Advertisements.

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Advertisements.

Japan Silks & Hand
'^ -^-Embroideries.

EXPORTER &

RETAILER.

' ""'*' , _*^

S. 1 1 DA,

"TAKASMAYA"

KABASUMAMV

TAKATSUtTI
KY.OTO

XOKOHAMA OFFICE

BENTENJDOBX

SHICHOME

Manufacturer to the
Imperial Household.

Xnmeroiis
Varieties
of Japa-
nese Silks,
Han<l-Embroiilerit's,
Cut Velvets iuclurtini;: Scicoi
Bed'Spreads, Table-t'overs.
Cushions, Window Cur-
tains, Tapestries, Brocades,
Crapes, Dresses, Piotnn's,
Kimonos, etc.
Xorelty of design and excellence ol'quality unsurpassed by others.

GRAND PRIX, PARIS EXPOSITION, 1900.

Ad ix^tisenients.

A-'^y

*^:.«^

^>yy:f>

ff:<i^- y .,<>•'

:>^v^"x./^

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Advertisements.

AND

FINE ART MANUFACTURERS

54-57 SHINMONZBN MUMEMOTOCHO,

KYOTO

Telegeaphio addeess

"IKED A", KYOTO.

Telephone No. 114.

BEANCH
S. IKEDA & Co.

13, owaricho nichome, near
Imperial Hotel, Tokyo.

Advertisements.

S. HATASHI

Jil

(Teleplwne J^o. 113.)

KYOTO,

J/iP/JN.

^:^

^
»6^

9'\r:X:^

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A FINE

Biiedio

A d vertisements. 77

-t KIN-UN KEN, s

« s

^ MANTJFAOTTJEER AND DEALER IN IT

^ HIGH CLASS 1|

^^ Cloisonne Ware, %

SS &c., &c., &c. im

FAOTOEY WILL BE SHOWN AT ANT TIME. V

^ AJuIj OBDER8 EXECUTED JLT MODERAJTE JPBICE8. /A^

^ 7

Sanjo-dori, Shirahawahashi A^ishi-iru, ^^

Y. NAMIKAWA. ^

Manufacturer <& Dealer in ^j^

PINE mmwi WARE, *

Awarded the Green Ribbon Medal, Cloisonne maker )\\

to H. I. M. the Emperor, Member of the ^^

ja Imperial Art Commission. qj;^

Visitors are shoi/i?n §

oi^er the establishment, 4!r

Sanjo^ Shirakawa-hasJii, Kitaura, Horiikecho^

Advertisements.

The Green Ribbon Decoration, conferred by Im-
perial Edict for Improvements and Excellency.

Gold Medal The International Exhibition

Amsterdam, 1883.

Gold Medal The World's Exposition

New Orleans, 188S.

Gold Medal The International Exhibition

Paris, 1889.

E. JOMI'S ARTISTIC METAL WORK, KYOTO.

m O. KOMAI,

Manufactuker & Dealee in

liOAiASeEIJEWAB

^ *

(INLAID WORK OF GOLD AND SILVER ON IRON WARE)

^ ^ JVo. 33, Fiirw-monzen Miyoshicho,
KYOTO-

VISITORS ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO
SEE OUR FACTORY.

Advertisements. 19

TRADE ^>r% MARK

Manufacturer of several kinds of

EMSPOIBEniES!

SCREENS, BED SPREADS, CURTAINS,

TABLE COVERS, etc.

WITH NEW DESIGNS.

ALSO DEALER IN OLD EMBROIDERIES.

Near Gion Park,

C3-ioisr Hi^CHiiKiEiNr,
KYOTO. JAPAN.

ONOTEI

First-Glass Tea-house.

JYawate, Yajfiafo-bashi-agario
KYOTO.

THIS HOUSE is situated on the eastern bank of the Kamo-
gawa, facing the clear, silvery stream, and with its
spacious, airy, and well-furnished rooms, can always accom-
modate large parties. Special arrangements having been made

for GEISHA DANCING, JAPANESE MUSIC,

and the TEA CEREMONIES, as well as for the best
NATIVE CUISINE, all ladies and gentlemen are moat
cordially invited by

ICHIHARA, Proprietor.

80 Advertisements.

OSAKA. ^^^ NARA.

KITAHAMA NICHOME. VV^V NOBORI-OJI KASUGANO.

Dealep^ in Fine ^i^m Objects

Lacquers, Bronzes, Metal Work, Porcelain,

Screens, Old Paintings, Embroidery,

Ivorjr and Wood Carvings, etc.

No. 21, TERAMACHI, OIKE, KYOTO.

FOREIGN BRANCHES:

NEW YORK. BOSTON, MASS.

254, FIFTH AVENUE. 272, BOYLSTON STREET.

BENTEN & CO.

COLLECTOR OF

OXjHD J^1<11D nSTEI^W^

— ALSO —

VARIOUS OTHERS COLLECTIONS OF CURIOS

KIMONOS, WINDOW CURTAINS, SCREENS, &c., &c.
Visitors are respectfully invited to inspect our Stores & Factory.

Principal Store :— 67, Shinmonzen,
KYOTO, JAPAN.

Pkoprietor, S. NOMUKA.

Advertisements.

£stabllsbe(l
1045

Sobei Kinkozan,

MANUFACTUEER OF

Art Porcelains

AIVATA WARE, SATSUJMA WARE,

KINKOZAN "WARE,

ETC.

AWATA, KYOTO, JAPAN.

DOMEI.

( I W A M O TO)

Wall-Hangings of Buddhist Temples, Portieres, Table

Covers, Cushion Covers, Daimyos' Kimono,

Priests' Robes, etc., etc.

MW EMBROIDERIES OF ARTOTIg DESISN.

{HIGASHI NAKADOBI)

Jfo. 16, Kawasehohuclio , iN'ihoTnhashihu, Tohyo.

Telephone No. 694 (honkyoktj)

82 Advertisements.

TELEI^HZOZtTE IsTO. 713.

THE HOTEL, hitherto known as the JI7UIEI or OSAKA
HOTEL, is now conducted by a LIMITED LLABILITY
COMPANY, and extensive accommodation is provided for the
comfort of guests.

The HOTEL is situated at

Mo. 1, Itchome, Mahanoshima, Osaka,

close to the Nakanoshima Park, in the heart of the city, and
commands excellent views of the animated scenes on the
river. It enjoys exceptional facilities for communication with
all parts of the city.

FIRST-CLASS CUISINE & WINES

under the management of an experienced steward and cook.
Every possible attention will be paid to the

Comfort <& Coni^enience of CuGsts,

AND
CHARGES WILL BE FOUND TO BE MODERATE.

A. SUZUKI, Manager.

Adreytisements.

CODE ADDRESS

'Shosen" Osaka

Established 1884

A. 1. & A.B.C.

CODES USED

COSAVCA

SWSi^^

\A^

^C^NTIL^

s. s. coo^

Capital Y. 11,000,000.

Reserved... 1,000,000.
FLEET: 80 STEAMERS ; 80,000 TONS.

OFflCE . .

z Telephone Nos. Nishi 148 & 269.

REGULAR SERVICES.

INLAND SEA COASTING LINES
KOBE-CHIN NAMPO LINE (via Ports)
KOBE-CHEMULPO LINE (via Ports)
KOBE-NEWCHWANG LINE (via Tientsin)
KOBE-NEWCHWANG LINE (via Chefoo)
KOBE-TAKAO LINE (via Ports)
KOBE-KEELUNG LINE (via Moii)
KOBE-KEELUNG LINE (via Ujina «t Ports)
FORMOSA COASTING LINE
SHANGHAI-HANGKOW LINE (via River Ports)
HANGKOW-ICHANG LINE (via River Ports)
TAMSUI-HONGKONG LINE (via Swatow k Amoy)
ANPING-HONGKONG LINE (via Swatow & Amoy)
FOOCHOW-SANTU LINE

A dvertisements.

TRADE

MARK

K. YAMANAKA

DEALERS IN JAPANESE & CHINESE ART OBJECTS

Antique and modern, comprising bronzes, ivory carvings, embroideries,

porcelains, potteries, and rare old colour prints and paintings

by oldest masters.

BRAIVCH HOUSE

TERAMACHI OIKE, KYOTO.

NOBORI-OJI, NARA.

FOltUIViV BRA.VCUES

254, FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK.
272, BOYLSTON ST., BOSTON.
6, STEEL PIER BLOCK, ATLANTIC CITY.
68, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON.

ai ^

/^^

^^MTumE*itiiTa

N A R A .

OKAMOTO USABURO, . . . PROPRIETOR.

q^mS FIRST-CLASS HOTEIj stands close to the Park in a high, airy,
1 and eminently healthy sitiiation, with its FRONT ROOMS facing
the Museum and the HaU of Daibutsn, while the BACK ROOMS face
the mountains of Yamato and the town. A FOEEIGN WING has recently
been added. The neighbourhood abounds ahke in PICTURESQUE
VIEWS and in objects of historical and artistic interest. Numerous
Imperial Princes and other exalted personages have honoured our esta-
blishment with their patronage in the past. In order to merit a continu-
ance of these favours, NO PAINS are spared by us to insure CLEAN"
BUSINESS, A HIGH-CLASS CUISINE, and all other excel-
lences conducive to the HEALTH and COMFORT of GUESTS.
The celebrated lacquered articles manufactured by
To-un-do {Ishida Motojiro) are on sale
in our hotel.

Adverti semen ts.

HAKU-Oi-DO HOTEL

(SHIN MOMIJI) MIYAJIMA.

THIS HOTEL, located in the famous OMOTO PARK,
commands a MAGNIFICENT VIEW both over the sea
and the mountains. The surrounding MAPLE-TREES pre-
sent a picturesque view from all the rooms, and every arrange-
ment is made to ensure comfort and quiet for visitors.

Only 8 minutes by steam launch from MIYAJIMA STA-
TION on the mainland, or 20 minutes by Japanese boat
(sampan), — the latter preferable, as it affords a better oppor-
tunity of enjoying the fine view. Boats are in attendance
near the Station.

IW/iSO HOTEL

TS situated in the bosom of the PICTURESQUE HILL.
ALL the ROOMS are neat, cosy, and well- furnished,
while independent detached buildings are dotted here and
there among the lovely MAPLE-TREES, thus ensuring the
COMFORT and RESTFUL quiet of visitors.

Only 8 minutes by steam launch from MIYAJIMA STA-
TION, or 20 minutes by sampan, — the latter preferable, owing
to the magnificent view to be had on the way. Sampans are
in waiting near the station.

86 Advertisements.

ISHIDA HOTEL

34 O J I

TRAYELLERS ARRIYING BY

STEAMER OR TRAIN TREATED

WITH EYERY ATTENTION.

Beautiful Apartirieuts

exquisitely clean and neat.

Meals in EUROPEAN STYLE

served at all hours.

Proprietor, . . . IShilDft,

CONTRACTOR TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY.

Y. YESAKI,

GENEEAL MANUFACTURER AND WHOLESALE AND
RETAIL DEALER IN EVERY DESCRIPTION

FINE ART TORTOISE-
SHELL WARE,

CLOISONNE, IVORY, LACQUER, AND
SATSUMA WARE.

Ima-Ut/i^ono Machi, Na^iasaKi, Japan,

Advertisements.

o
p

crq

88 Advertisements^

SAKATA,

GENEEAL MANUFAGTUEER OP
A LARGE ASSORTMENT

ONLY GENUINE TORTOISE-SHELL KEPT IN STOCK.
MONOGRAM WORK IN SHELL

AND

PRECIOUS METALS A SPECIALITY.

MOTO-KAGO-MACHI, NAGASAKI, JAPAN.

TSIE

SHUEISHA

FANCY AND

ARTISTIC PRINTERS

HEAD OFFICE :

Mos. 26 & 27, NISHI-KONYACHO, KYOBASHI-KU, TOKYO.

BRANCH OFFICE :

No. 12, KAGACHO, USHIGOME-KU, TOKYO.

Advertisements. 8S^

MuTSU Hotel,

SEJVDAI, UIKUZEM, JAPAJY.
S. TERAGI, - - . . Proprietor.

THIS HOTEL is situated in the centre of the city, near SENDAI
STATION, and affords visitors a magnificent view of the surrounding
scenery. ALL THE ROOMS are airy and well-furnished with every
comfort, and the hotel forms a cool and pleasant residence even in
the hottest days of summer. THE ELECTEIC LIGHT is laid on in all
the buildings. This is the only Hotel at which visitors to Matsushima
(Thousand Pine-clad Islands) can obtain GUIDES and LUNCHEON
at any time.

Every facility will be afforded to visitors to Matsushima.

THE BAR & BILLIARD TABLES

are fitted up in a superior manner.

WINES AND LIQUORS . . .

of the best quality and brands only are supplied.

The cuisine is under the supervision of an experienced chef, and meals are
served at all hours.

Yamaoata-ya,

SAPPORO.

I^HE PROPRIETOR of this hotel desires to avoid all UN-
- NECESSARY PUFFING of his establishment,
and simply to state that he pays strict attention to business
at all times, keeping in mind the duty of HONESTY

UP-TO-DATE-NESS, CAREFUL SERVICE!
FACILITIES TO GUESTS, and UNREMITTING

HARD WORK. The hotel stands in a central situation
some 350 yards to the south of the Railway Station, in close
proximity to the prefecture, the banks, trading companies,
and principal stores.

OTAKE KEISUKE, Proprietor.

Sapporo, Kita JVi-Jo, JVishi Shichoine.

90 Advertisements.

K & K K & K

YOKOHAMA KOBE

37. Water Street No. 81.

Opposite the "GRAND HOTEL" Opposite the " ORIENTAL HOTEL '

K Qt^ K

STANDS FOR

KUHN & KOMOR

YOKOMMMfl.

GOODS PACKED, SHIPPED, AND FORWAKDED
TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD.

Hai^e one Store in Yokohama and
this is opposite the Grand Hotef*

K & K K & K

HONGKONG SHANGHAI

Under the 2 Nanking Road

' HONGKONG HOTEL " " CENTRAL HOTEL BUILDING '

Advertisements.

" The most comprehensive and readable book, taken all round,
that has ever been published about Japan, delightful to every
reader, and as indispensable as Murray's Guide to the traveller
in the land of the Rising Sun." — ISorth China Daily News.

" The book now before us •will earn the gratitude of

many future generations of tourists Within its

four hundred pages of handy size there is set forth
a miiltitude of just such facts as the new-comer
•wdU find useful and interesting."— Japan Mail.

" It is not often that a book compiled in
dictionary form can be commended as
dehghtfvd reading. But Professor
Basil Hall Chamberlain's THINGS
JAPANESE is really a brilliant

exception to the rule

Hanging his causeries upon
the character, customs,
and institutions of the
Japanese in alpha-
betical order, he

discourses in a

most sprightly and

- Johnsonian style,

which clothes vtdth charm

the least attractive branches

of a naturally attractive

subject." — Times.

John Murray. London.
Kelly & Walsh, Ld. Yokohama, Kobe,
Shanghai, Hongkong, and Singapobe.

Sy the Same Author.

" Handbook of Colloquiaf Japanese," 3rd. Ed.

" Introduction to the Study of Japanese Writing."

LONDON ;

Sampson Low, Marston & Co., Ld.
YOKOHAMA : Kelly &, Walsh, Ld

92 Advertisements.

ESTABLISHED « ^ A. R, G. CLARK,

1863. « H% ^ f .4^ Manager.

BRITISH & FOREIGN!.

FAMILY CHEMISTS.

No. 79, MAIN STREET, No. 79.

DISPENSING DEPARTMENT.

Physicians' Prescriptions are dispensed and Family K«cipes compounded

QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED FOREIGN CHEMISTS ONLY.

American, British, French, German, and other continental Prescriptions
are accurately dispensed according to their respective Pharmacopoeias.

HOMEOPATHIC & PATENT MEDICINES.

\tMmt[ §tinith |^JH$^ Sttmpr0$$iih ®Hibtir$^

Hot Water Bags, Air Cushions & Pillows,

No. 79. MAIN STREET. No. 79,

Advertisements. 93

NORTH & RAE

Limited.

Direct Importers of

Perf uiT)^^^ Toileh^sTaber^^ Cosrpebic^,

Hair Brushes, Tooth Brushes, Nail Brushes,
Shaving & Moustache Brushes,

AND

MEDICAL AND TOILET REQUISITES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

THE CELEBRATED RED BARK BITTERS

An excellent and refreshing " pick me up."

AND

NORTH & RAE'S Specially Pure & Well-known

A ERA TED IV A TERS.

Soda, Mineral Tonic, Ginger Ale (Special),

. Seltzer, Lemonade, Melrosone,

Lemon Squash, Ginger Beer, Potash Water,
Champagne Cider, Sarsaparilla, Lithia Water,
&c. &c. &c.

No. 79. MAIN STREET. No. 79

■ Adverlisemcnls.

IRIIT BEER

TELEPHONE
No. 337

CHIEF BREWER :
ASSISTANT BREWER:
DO.

omcE

123 BLUFF

HERR C. KAYSER.
HERR E. EICHELBERG
HERR R. WENDT.

" THE PUREST BEER SOLD IN JAPAN "

GA/f'JED THE HIGHEST AWARDS & MEDALS AT ALL
THE NATIONAL EXHIBITIONS.

RECOMMENDED by the whole Medical Faculty as a
light and wholesome Beverage, absolutely pure and
eminently suited for this climate. Only the best German
Malt and Hops used.

at the Brewery and at all Hotels, Railway Stations, and
Rest-houses throughout Japan, and also at all the ports iu

. k mm.

General xAgent for Japan

MEIDI-YA

Kobe Special Agents : MESSRS. WHYMARK & Co.
Nagasaki do. ; MESSRS. R. H. POWERS & Co.

James Stewart, Manager and Secretar)-.

The Japan Brewery Co. Ltd., 128 Bluff, YoMiama.

Adi'diis 'iiiHiilt!.

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UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
LIBRARY

Acme Library Card Pocket

Under Pat. " Ref. Index File."
Made by LIBEAKY BUREAU

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