This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project
to make the world's books discoverable online.
It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.
Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the
publisher to a library and finally to you.
Usage guidelines
Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:
+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.
+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.
+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each file is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.
+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe.
About Google Book Search
Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web
at|http : //books . google . com/
i '^'' *
: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN
YORKSHIRE,
FOR RESIDENTS IN THE COUNTY.
THIBD EDITIOS, mOSOUQBLY REVISED.
WITH MAP AND PLANS.
;
LONDON:
JOHN MUBBAY, ALBEMABLB STBEET.
1882.
Ikt TigM qf TnmtUMon it raerved.
CO?.-:
LONDON:
n wuxuK cLOwn aitd 9011a, umitkd, ramvodd
AVD CHABIVO CBOtt.
PKEFACE.
As eamefit endeavour lias been made to render iliiB Edition
moie perfect and aocnrate than its predecessors, so that it
may be found more nsefnl to the stranger and traveller, and
moie reliable to the resident or native of Yorkshire than
before. For this purpose most of the Boutes have been
tested and verified on the spot.
Curtailments have been made in some of the very minute
archaeological details, which seemed out of place in a popular
guide, so as to make room for more modem and practical
information. The Boutes also have been adjusted according
to the new Lines of Bailway opened since the last Edition
went to press. But since changes occur so rapidly in every
part of England, some errors may still have escaped notice
in describing a district of so great extent, and in which the
objects of interest are so numerous and so varied ; it is there-
fore requested that notices of such faults or omissions may be
aent to the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 50a, Albemarle Street.
The Editor desires to acknowledge the great courtesy
and readiness with which all his inquiries, made in person
or by letter, have been received and answered in every part
of Yorkshire.
a 2
CONTENTS.
Pbipaci . .
ISTBODIHrnON
Page iii
. . vii
ROUTES.
' Tbc uunM of places are printed in italiet only in tliofle notos when ih»plaea are
deecribed.
Km tAQM
I. Loodoir to Ibr*, by 2>o»-
ooMier and &%.— (Great
Korthem Railway) ... 2
IJL London to Tork, by Luton,
Bedford, Leicester, Longh-
borongh, and 2Wn^ Juno-
t«oji.--(MidIand Railway) . 76
1 Doncaster to Tork, by End-
tmgley.^Bolton Percy . . 78
3. London to Ettlly by Don-
caster, Thome, and 0oolej
—HcifM Chase .... 85
4. Knottingley to Goole, by
SMiik 102
5. Milford Junction to Hull,
by Selby and Howden . . 104
6. Hnll, by Hedtm and Po-
tr^ton to WUhemseeu
{Sptim Head,) The Hol-
demess Coast to Hornsea . 108
7. Hull to ^omsm and Skipeea 120
^. York to Beverley and Hull,
by Market TT^i^Atoii.— Also '
to Selby 125
1 Roll to Bridlington, by Be-
Terley and DriffiM . . .147
10. Bererley to Bridlington—
Bead 150
II. Halton to Driffield. (The
WoUU) 152
12. York to Soarboroughj by
Casik Moward and kalton 156
13. Scarborough to FUey, Flam"
horough Mead, and Brid*
181
XOCTS PAOK
14. York to TrA»%, by Malton
and Pickering 190
15. Whitby to Stockton-upon-
Tees, by Stokesley (Guie-
b(*rottgh, Boeeberry Topping) 208
15a. Whitby to Otdeborough and
Middlesbrough . . . .216
16. Tork to Darlington, by
TMrsk and North Allerton 218
17. Stockton to Saltburn, by
Middlesbrough and Bedcar 230
18. Thirsk to Malton, by CoxKold,
ByiandAhbey, and GilHna 236
18a. Gilling to Pickering, by
Behnaley (Bievaulx Abbey),
Kirkby Moorside, and Last-
tn^Aom— Rail .... 242
19. Tork to Baroughbridge and
Aldborough 252
20. York to Knareeborough and
ff arrogate {Marston Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
{Brimham Craggs), NSu
derdale 268
22. Harrogate to Northallerton,
by Bipon, Fountains Abbey,
ffackfaU, and Tanfield . . 274
23. Northallerton to Leybunif by
Bedale {Middleham, Jer^
vaulx Abbey, HorrAy Castle) SOI
24. Wensleydale. — Leybum to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by Bolton Castle,
Aysgarth, Askrigg, Mawes,
(ffardraw Force) .... 312
"VI
OOHTKNTS.
xom PAOB
24a. Hawes to Maker .... 322
25. York ioBiohmond^SwakdalB^
SMihj Muker, and Barnard
Oastla, by Dalton Junction
and CatUriok Bridge . . 323
26. Darlington to jBonuird Ca5^
{Ito^\ Bowes Castle, and
Mgglestone Abbey .... 336
27. Barnard Castle to MiddUton-
m-Teesdale, High Foroe.^
MicklefeU 848
28. London to Leeds, (I) hj Don-
caster and Wakefield; (2)
hf Pontefract and Wake-
field; (3) hf PoKtefract
and Castiefori .... 352
29. Leeds to Harrogate {Kirk^
ttallf ffarewood) • ... 872
30. Leeds to Sk^ptont ▲. hj
Otiey and lUUey (Boltm
Priory^ WharfedaU) . . 378
31. Skipton to KeUleuaeU (Upper
Wharfedale) 897
32. Skipton to IngUton, hjSetae
{McJAamt Oordti/^ YiGtoria
Cave\ — (Midland RaU-
way) 402
32a. Skipton to Claphaan^ Ingk-
Urn, JSSrJbby L(m$dale.^
The Torhshtre Cooes . . 413
33. Settle to Chatbnn((?tii6Mriitf,
SawkgAhUy) 419
aoun PAOB
34. Leeds to Skipton, by Bingleg
and KeigUey (SaUaire, Ho'
vnrth) 442
35. Leeds to j9ra(f/or(l(Zoioifoor
Irontoorks) 430
86. Leeds to Bradford and Hali-
fax, by Laister Dyke,
Queenabury and Thornton . 437
37. Leeds to Manchester, by
Deioabury And ffvdder^M 447
88. Leeds to Wakefsid {Nostel
Priory, Walton Hall) . . 457
39. Wakefield to HalifasB O^n-
caskire and Yorkshire Rly.) 466
40. Wakefield to Donoaster, by
Bamsley and Mexborovgh
(Coningaborough) .... 471
41. London to Leeds.*-(K. Mid-
land Railway) .... 479
42. Leeds to Selby^ by Milford
Junction 481
43. London to Harrogate, by
Tadoaeter and Wetherhu . 484
44. Huddersfield to Sheffield, by
PenistoM and Wortley . . 490
45. Sheffield to Donoaster, by
Mcuborough (Botherhamt
Wentworih Souse) ... 508
46. Sheffield to Bamsley (Eoolee-
field) ........ 514
47. Botherham to Bawtry, by
TiokhiU (Boche Abbey) . . 516
Indxi
519
PLANS.
CiTT or YoBK to face 18
YOBK MU98TKB 21
BiFOV Catbxdbal 276
FovHTAiSB Abbst • •• ... 287
INTKODUCTION.
PAoa
EXTSHT AHD GkNE&AIi GHAaACTEB vil
GfiuiiOOT ix
HlSTOBT xiii
AKTiqurriEB xxiv
RssouBOES AND Manufactubbs zxxi
Tbatxlleb'b Yikw and Soekebt xxxviii
Skslbtoh Toubs xlix
[In the following Introdaction reference is made to the Boutos in which
the places mentioned are described. The reader will find the exact
page by tnming to the Index.]
Extent akd General Gbabacteb*
S L— Yorkshire^
^A kingdom that doth seem, a proYince at the least.
To them that think themjielyes no simple shirts to be" —
Drayton, * Polyolbion,' Song 28—
is, it need hardly be said^ the largest shire in England. It contains
nearly two million of statute acres more than either Liinoolnshire or
DeTODsbire, the two English counties of next importance. It is about
the size of the entire Peloponnesus ; is half as large as Holland ; and
▼eiy nearly half aa large as modem Belgium. " One may call and
josUfy this," says Fuller, *' to bo the best shire of England.**
§ n.— The size and population of Yorkshire (as gathered from the
of 1871} are as follows : —
Popohitfcm.
Am In
Am in
tUtnte Acrei
5961
8,882,851
*
viii ExiefU and Oenerai Charctcter, Introd.
Lincolnshire contains 2611 sqnare miles^ or 1,739,812 statute acres,
wi h a population of 404,143; Devonshire 2686 square miles, or 1,667,180
statute acres, with a population of 684,373. Taken according to the
Hidings, the population of Torkahire is —
1881. 1871. 1861.
Fail Biding .. .. 865,028 .. .. 268,466 •• .. 274,425
North Riding .. •• 846,147 .. .. 298,278 .. .. 211.109
WeU Biding .. •• 2,175,134 .. •• 1,874,611 .. .. 1,530,007
§ m.— The county, which is nearly conterminous with the ancient
Deira (seepo«<. History) was no doubt known as ** Yorkshire" before
the Conquest, taking its name of course from the great city which, from
the days of the Bomajis, had been the capital of the north, and which
itself, seems to have been named from the river on whose banks it
%tands. (See York, Rte. 1.) " Eoferwio-scire " occurs in a charter of
the Confessor's.— -KcmWe, vi. 203. At what period the division into the
three ridings was made, whether by Anglians or Danes, is not certain^
In its present form, the word is a corruption of " Trithing," a third part
or division. ("Thridjungar"—thirdings— occur as land divisions in
South Norway, where are also found " halfur," halvings, and " fiorh-
jungar," quarterings.) The three ridings, very unequal in size, meet at
the city of York. The West Riding, one of the great centres of English
manufacture, is by far the largest and most populous ; but it can hanlly
b« said to be more full of interest for the tourist than the two others.
The vast surface of Yorkshire, with its great extent of seaboard, is in
effect an epitome of England, whatever is excellent in the whole land
Iteing to be found there.
§ IV. — To the east, and partly on the north, Yorkshire is bounded
by the sea. The Tees, from its mouth nearly to its sources, forms the
rest of the northern boundary, and separates Yorkshire from Durham.
The western boundaries, beyond which lie Westmoreland and Lanca-
shire, run for the most part along the mountain ridges ; and the lines are
continued S.W. and S. along similar high ground, dividing Yorkshire
from Lancashire and Derbyshire. Part of Nottinghamshire succeeds oa
the S.E. ; and the north of Lincolnshire is separated from Yorkshire by
the Humber. The natural divisions of the county are sufBciently
marked. A broad valley, or rather a broad tract of rich level, gen^
rally known as the Vale of York,*-pronounced by M. Bunsen *' the
roost beautiful and most romantic vale in the world, the vale of Nor-
mandy excepted," — runs through it from 8. to N. Two very distinct
districts may be traced on either side of this great vale, which is bounded
by their high groand. East of the Yale of York, are, S. the group of
clialk hills called the Wdds, and N. the Hambledon Hills and the
Intzod. Oeohgy. u
Moors of Clev^nds. The Vale of Pickering divides the Wolds from
the northern hilltu W. of the Yale of York are, N. the group of north-
westem hilla, of which Miokle Fell is the highest summit, and which
are pieroed by the most beautiful and interesting of the dales — ^Wensley-
dale, Swaledale, and others ; snd 8. the group of south-western hills,
fonoing the district of Craven, the Moore of Halifax, and the Yorkshire
border aa far as Staned^e. Kibblesdale, a comparatively low region,
sa£BcieDtly marked, though not so decidedly as the Yale of Pickering,
may be regarded as separating these western districts, the mountains of
which form a portion of what is known as the ''Backbone of England,"
the flo-called Pennine chain, which extends nearly from the Scottish
bolder to the Peak of Derbyshire.
f Y. — ^The lands of Yorkshire, as Professor Phillips has pointed out,
rise in masses toward the west. Hence its many rivers find their way,
almost without exception, to the German Ocean ; the Bibble, on its
western border, being the single stream of importance which falls into
tike Irish Sea. (The Lune, which receives some Yorkshire tributari&<),
riaes in Westmoreland^ The great rivers — ^the Tees, the Swale, the
Onse, the Wharfe, the Uerwent, the Aire, the Calder, and the Bon — have
been, at all periods, the centres of Yorkshire life and civilization. The
moat important Roman stations were formed on their banks and at their
fords ; the strongest baronial castles rose near them : Augustinians and
Gisterdans took possession of, and brought into cultivation, the most
seclnded and most beautiful portions of their valleys ; and in more re-
cent periods the ^labours of the loom," and the tall chimneys and
ceaaeless clang of every kind of factory have established themselves in
the same river-valleys. The same advantages have induced the
population to gather, age after age,- about the same centres; and
the result, especially in the manufacturing districts, is such a singular
mixture of the present and the past as perhaps no other part of
England can show,
Oeoloot.
f VI. — ^The geol<^ of Yorkshire has been so exhaustively treated by
FkofesBor Phillips, both in his larger work (* Greology of Yorkshire') and
in his ' Rivers, Mountains, and Sea Coast of YorkHhire,' that it is only
now possible to describe it by condensing Mr. Phillips's descriptions.
These who wish for more information than can be given here must refer
to the worM mentioned above.
f VII.— The great Yale of York, stretching directly through the
centra of the county, is occupied entirely by the red sandstone series of
rock. Testing, along its western border, from the southern limit of York«
r' Oeology. Introd.
fihire to a point between the mem Uro and Swale, on a mnch narrower
belt of magnesian limestone. The red sandstones asa-overlaid, east, by
the ZuM, which extends down the valley of the £sk nearly as &r as
Whitby, and appears also in patches alcffl^ the oosAt and inland. On
the lias, and formiDg the mass of the nortib-eastem hills, rest the series
of Bath and Oxford oolites, the latter being confined to a district ex-
tending from Helmsley to the sea at Filey, and again in a soudi-easterly
direction ftx>m- U«Jmsley to the lowei* course .of the Derwent. A patch
of Kimmeridge''Say intervenes between these Oxford oolites and the
cltalhy which forms the Wolds. Holdemess, marked by a line drawn
irom Bridlington to Hull, a little W. of the Hull river, is entirely
cainozoic^ a district of submarine forest and of rolled fragments brought
from various and distant regions. The marshes through which the
Ou8e« the Derwent, and the Don flow in their lower courses towaids
the Humber are of still more recent growth. , « ' .
The coal formaUon underlies the magneaian limestone from the border
of the county as iar as Leeds, then turns W. to a point beyond Bradford,
and, winding round S.E. by Huddeisfield and Penistone, again reaches
the Yorkshire border S. of Sheffield. It is bordered W. by the mUUtone
grit series, which extends irregularly quite across thecoupty, and is
pierced by large masses 9f YardoUe and Scar limestone, .The grits and
limestones form the mountainous and picturesque districts of uie S.W.
and N. W. A small patch of Silurian rock extends fjpem Westmoreland
into Torkshire by Seabergh and Dent, and thence round to Settle. The
upper valley of the Tees is of volcanic trap^ and a remarkable basaltio
dyke extends from Gockfleld Fell in Durham across the ^. of Yorkshire,
nearly as far as Whitby,
§ VIII. — ^To these various JTormations are due the very distinct
character of the great natural divisions of Yorkshire already noticed.
''The mineral qualities and position of rocks, with the .accidents
to which they have been subjected, give us the clue to the forma of
mountains and valleys, the aspect of water&lls and rocka, the pre*
valent herbage, and the agricultural appropriation. , Even surface
colour and pictorial effect are not fully understood without geological
inquiry. While limestone 'scars' support a sweet green turf, and
slopes of shale giye a stunted growth of bluish sedge, gritstone
'^es' are often deeply covered by brown heath, and abandoned to
grouse, the sportsman, or the peat cutteri In a word, geological
distinctions are nowhere more boldly marked than in Yorbahire, or
more constantly in harmony with the other leading &ota of physical
geography."— -rAitttiM.
{ IX. — ^Excellent collections, illustrating the geological history of
Yorkshire, with the fossil remains charaoterisUc of the various formations,
exist at York, at Leeds, at Scarborough, and at Whitby. The chalk is
ridi in sponges, marsupitesi apiocriniteSi eohinidsD, and belemnites. '< Its
Litrod. "O&oldgif. ' xi
( buids of flini indtdei Me in ft lower pert or ihe tDABs titen in
r pKte of Engiaad. ftpougoB on not nsoally found in theaenodoles,
bat lie in ths-dialk itnlf (the upper part), and are remarkably distinct
Id «|i(eafanoa and cfaanetar, Deoaoie their tissae is 8ilicloa0.*«-PMlKji>a.
The ftias, boidot pentBeriniixa and star-fiBhes of great beauty (as at
StaitbeaX abounds in its gnat .chaiaetsristiG reptilesy — ^Ichthyosaurus,
PleBiosaunUyandTeleosaurus. The coal*measor6s (described more folly,
jMs^amoi^ the 'Badotunes and Manufactures of To^kshb^,'' 9 xxxvi.)
an ikh in plantSy and aaa eharaoterised by a few ^^M^-^Avict^Uhfeden
myraotm^ QimiaUte^ IMar% NavtUm McwMOni^ and Orthooertu Stein*
aaiienV— 'Which are either nore^ or ate altogether wantingy in the more
sontfaam ooai formatioftis.
f X.— The Trap Dykt^ whicb runs across K.E. Yorkshire, and the
great displacement in the mouutain limestone known as t3ie Craven Faulty
un marked features iA the geology of the county. The traip^ or hoBdUie
dwkey of dark-eolonred rock, nearly vertical in position, and generally
about 60 ft in horizontal thickness, although: it is not in some places
eaKpoaed at the auHkoe, may with toleraUe certainty be presumed to
a]Uend eontinQoualy froai CockfiekL Fell in Durham, across the Tees, hf
way of StaJBton and(}reat Ayton, to Eskdale and Gothlanddale, termi-
natiag within four ^iles of the saa a short distance W. of Whitby.
''Its total length ii about 60 miles. The strata which it penetrates are,
in Durham, the ikMuntain limestone^ the millstone grit> and the coal-
neasuns; in N« Yorkshire, the new red sandBtone, the lias, and the
lower oolite. . 37 ■QDse geologists it is supposed to be connected with
the Ibeadale whinaiH; but thou^ it is quite possible that it may
owe its orgin to the ssme centre of igneous diatnriMuaoe, it is quite e^
dent that the Clo^elaiid dyke ia nradbi later in the date of its protrusion
than the Teesdaie mass. (Wicrally its sides are not quite perpendicular,
and the beda on the K. of it are somewhat depressed. In some places
a tendencrf towards the piiamatic trpe of structure ia observable in its
Tniswps, In the neighbenrhood of the Tees it is quite overlaid by the
glacial diluvium* & the Ayton tract it forms a oonspicuoos ridM, and
at liuidbargh and in Kildale it ia extensively quarried for roadstone.
From this last*mentioned dale its coune lies along the dale of tiie Esk
ibr some diatanos in a line not far from the river. At £^i:ton bridge it
fonnsA steep sosr in Limber Hill, on the 8. side of tbe Esk, and from
thaooe tarns S^E. to the head of Iburndale, and at last, after beoomitig
oqnsiderablv reduced in thickness^ it is lost amongst the thick send*
stones of the moorland mass not far from the point where the main
bfandi of the Derwetft takes its rise."-^. G. Baker^ 'North Tork*
shin^* p. 29.
{ XL— The Oraven IbnU, ** one of the most magnificent dislocations
m England," writes Professor Phillips, is a vast displacement of the
. mountsin Hmeatone^ which has produced the clifik of Malham and of
Goidalc^ and to whicb Graven is indebted for tiie most striking and
mtansque featum of its scenery. The southern boundary passes from
Tbrwbfield on the Wharfs to M^itiam^ and ia continued thence K. to
Txi Oedhgjf. Inirod.
Settle. It then borders the riv^r Bibble as fkr M Stkinfbrth, where
the slate makes a great indeDtation, Beyond, it again runs parallel to
the river, and fills the valley above Horton ; thence it winds round by
Ingleborough. Another line of dislocation rons from SetUe by Giggles-
wick Scar, Feizor, Austwiok, and Newby, to Ingleton. Both lines of
fault are marked by great scars of limestone, produced by the violent
dislocation aud drop of the rock.
** With regard to the extent of the dislocations caused by the Crayen
Faults, it is found that the northern drop is about 300 fL, whilst tbe
total depression under Ingleborough is not less than 8000 ft., about
Settle 1000 ft, and it diminishes toward Grassington, where numerous
other dislocations confuse but do not destroy its effects. The limestone
beds ar^ usually removed from the axis of disturbance ; enough, how-
ever, can be seen to assure us that, while the elevated beds rise slightly
to the fault, the depressed beds iall steeply to the S.; they are no-
where verticEd, and the angle of their inclination continually diminidies
eastwards." — W^ Bowson.
§ XII. — A remarkable peculiarity of the Wolds and of the Cleveland
moorlands is the steep escarpment, towards the N., of tbe hill ranges.
This is very conspicuous on the northern and western borders of the
chalk, where it rises from the Yale of Pickering and sweeps round
toward the Vale of York ; and on the northern border of the Cleveland
hills, as well as in the calcareous hills on their southern border, rang-
ing from Scarborough to Hambleton End. (See Pickering, Bte. 14.)
The view of this latter range, from the Cawthome Camps, near Picker-
ing, or from any one of the adjoining heights, precisely resembles the
view from a sesrcliff, with a long line of bluffs projectiDS into the
water. Professor Phillips and other geologists have looked on these
escarpments as having at one time been trae cUfb, long washed
by a prinueval ocean, and worn into their present forms by its waves,
lliere is now, however, considerable doubt as to the truth of this expla-
nation; and Mr. William Topley, in a paper on ike Physical Geo*
graphy of East Yorkshire (CMogical Magazine^ October, 1866), suggeste
that the ** origin of the present scenery of Yorkshire is due, in the main,
to Bub-adrial denudation, and not to marine action." The ground on
which he builds his theory is briefly as follows ^— The Yorkshire escarp-
ments, *Mn common with all analogous hills in England, have this
striking character. The same bed, or its representative, crops out at
about the same hei^t of the escarpment all along its course. Thus,
in the N. Cleveland hills, the * ironstone and marlstone series* crop
out some way down the side, and the hills are capped by tbe same bed
of sandstone (inf. oolite). In other words, these escarpments run along
the t^rike^ and their scarped aides faee Ihe dip. Thus, if the beds are
dipping to the south, the scarped side will face the north, and the escarp-
ment will run east and west^ Now, how can this fact be aooounted for
if these escarinnents are old sea-clifib ? To learn what a lias sea-cliff is
like, we have only to examine the present ooast-line of Cleveland. Here
the beds are seen to dip in the diff section, and therefore the diff is not
laktoA. EiOory. xiii
formed alcx^ the Btrikei HoreoTer, beds are seen to clip one under the
other and diSsappear, so that a cliff section at one place may give a set of
beds qnite diftereni from another section taken a few miles off. llins,
on the Yorkshire coast we pass in ihe $ame line cf d\ff% from lias in the
N. throogh all the oolite series in succession, to chalk in the S. Snch
is never &e case with an inland escarpment. This [Hiesents the same
set of beds thronghont its entire length. Now, since escarpments nm
along the strike, whilst the present sea-cliffs rarely or never do, it would
seem that we must no longer look to marine action as the mode of
fiirznataon of these escarpments. They are assuredly not * river diffs,'
sbioe rivers by no means always run parallel to Uiem or even near
thPDi. There remain then (»ily pure suVaSrial agencies to account for
them."
HiSTORT.
f XIII. — Although modem researches into the contents of Yorkshire
''houes^ and tumuli, especially of those on the Wolds and the Gleve-
famd moorsy have rendered it certain that the country was occupied,
perhaps at successive periods, by at least two very distinct races, the
Komana seem to have included the whole native population under
tiie general name of Briffantei. They are first mentioned by Tacitus
(Ann. idL\ and the word has been explained as signifying ''moun-
taineers— ^nighlanders." Braighe (Gaelic) signifies **high grounds;*'
Brigcmi (CMnrio) is a mountaineer. It is uncertain whether the
Bri^tes telonged to the Qaelic or Cymric division of the Celts.
§ Xiy.^-About AJK 50, more than a century after j;he first hmdins
of Cesar in Kent (bx. 55), and after the greater part of S. Britain had
been inbdued, the fioman legionaries app^ired for the first time among
the Brinntes. Ostorius Scaj^ila is then said by Tacitus to have marched
into their territory to *' suppress internal discord.** But they continued
hidenendeni until about aj>. 70* Cartismandua, their powerfol queen,
IB inknaoua for the betrayal to Bome of her relative Caractaous Tcirc.
AJK 51), and waa afterwards driven away by the Brigantes themsaves,
headed by her hnsband Yenutius. It is possible that their country was
left nnattacked by the Bomana until, between A.n. 70-78, great part of
it waa conquered by Petiliua Cerealis. In the following year, 78-79,
tiie conquest <Mf the whole district was confirmed and completed by
Agricola. For the history of all this period, see Merivale^a * History
of the Romana under the Empire,' voL vi« chap, li., and voL vii.
chapwlxL
The Brigantiaa territory atretobed ftxnn sea to sea, including, besideB
Yoikahire, the northern parts of Lancashire, and possibly a portion of
Derbyshix«. But their moat important towna and stations were in
Yorkshire ; and after the Soman conquest and occupation the whole of
that diatrict was speedily covered with roads, permanent camps, and
cities, in which the refinements and civilization of Bome were not leas
coDapieuflfoa than in any other portion of the empirOi It appears certain
that throuf^xmt the Boman period the provinoe which comprised
ziv Eiilorj/, IntrocL
the ooontry of the Brigantes was the most flourishiiigy the most
important, and, in relation to the Government the moat central portion
of mtain. York, " Altera Boma," was the great resting-plaoe of the
emperors on their visits to this island ; and at the time of the oompila^
tion of the Notitia the 6th Legion had held that city nninterraptedly for
three centuries, and still sent its troops thence to ^rrison the lessee
stations in Yalentia and along the line of the great North WalL (See
Ehuracum, York, Rte. 1.)
§ XY^— The history of North Britain, after the departure of the
legions, is altogether ohsoore ; and the heginning aivl early progress of
no Anglo-Saxon kingdom is so difficult to trace as that of Northumbria.
Ida is said to have "assumed the kingdom" (Scud. Ckron. sub anno) in
647, nearly a century after the arrival of Hengist (a.d. 449). Matthew of
Westminster (or the compilation made at St. Alban's under the direction
of Matthew Paris which passes by his name) asserts that Ida was chosen
by the " prooeres Anglorum ;" and it would appear that the An^ians
had made good their tooting in Northumbria some time before. His 12
sons followed him, according to the same authority, with 40 ships, and
landed at Flamborough Head (apud Fkmesbuzg applicuerunty p. 193,
ed. 1578), and, though not without a severe struggle, the Britons of
Cumbria- and Bemicia were gradually compelled to retire or to submit
themselves to the new comers. The little kingdom of Loidis or Elmete
(see Bte. 28) was not incorporated in that of Northumbria until about
the year 616. At what time the northern and southern portions of the
Northumbrian kingdom became known as Bemida and Deira is not
evident. In the * Gododin' of Aneurin (see OaUerick^ Rte. 25), and in other
Welsh poems, they are called ** Delvyr and Bryneich f but whether these
names are Celtic or Teutonic is uncertain. Bernicia poanbly represents the
Celtic name of the district ; Deira is more probably the ** country of wild
animals/ — the •* hunting-ffround," — ^from the A.-*, deor. The bounda-
ries of tiiese divinoDS no doubt varied at different times, although the
Humber was always the southern border of Deira, and the Tyne seems
to have been the usual line of division between Deira and Bemicia. In
the absence of any light from Dr. Onset through this most obscore
period of Northumbrian history, some assistance will be found in t^e
•Tables of Anglo-Saxon History* appended by Bx Francis Palgrave
to his ' History of the English Constitution.'
{ XVI. — ^The Northumbrian kingdom, of which the capital, as in the
Boman times, was Tork, was the most powerful in England for a period
of 50 years (620-670), throughout the reigns of Edwin, Oswald and
Oswi, 3 of the 7 Bretwaldas enumerated by Bede. Under the first of
these, Edwin, Christianity was introduced among the heathen Angliana
by Paulinus. The history of the mission of St Paulmus and of the
royal oonversion, followed as usual by that of the king's principal foU
lowers and the great mass of his subjects, can hardly be traced so
minutely as the story of St. Augustine in Kent ; but the sites connected
with the foundation and gradual establishment of the new faith retaia
some very interesting memorials of their early days, and are well worth
Tiating. (jS^ espedany Jorifc, Bte. 1 ; Ooodmcmhan^ BIb. 8 ) Bdck*^
nm, me. 12; Lagtingham, Bte. U; WhUby, Bte. 14; and Oi^torM^,
Bl*. 25. Bede rSisfc. JOoclas.) is of ooarae the chief authori^ for all
^m period.) Toe AngtiaDa, who peopled East Auglia and Korthun-
briiy mnn whatever part of Europe they jd&j have coxne, were lUOFd
akin to the Danes in character and in language than the Saxons who
Brttled in 8. Britain ; and the Danes aoocurdinglv found more induoe-
rnent^ and prohably found it easier, to establish permanent ooloniea
arncoff them than in other carts of England. The first ships of these
** heathens " arrived, acoorcling to the Sax* Chron^ on the ooast of
Wesaex in 788« In 793 Lindlsfame was destroyed by them ; and from
that time they appeared more and more frequentlv in the Humber,
plundering the country on both sides, until in 867 their army attacked
Toik, and entirely routed the host of the Northumbrians. In876North«*
umbna is said to have been ''conquered" b;^ the neat Danish leader
Hslfdan; and in the following year he divided me Northumbrians*
lands among his followers, * who from that time were ploughing and
tilling theni* (Sctx, Chr<m^ s. a. 876). Henceforth the Danish settle*
menta in Northnmbria wore permanent ; and Uie termination hy^ mark-
ing a Danish house or village, is more frequent along the rivers that
flow into the Humber than in any other part of Engknd. ** Eirk,"-*-^
as in **Kirkby Hoorside/ — ^is another Danish indication, of which 19
instaxioes occur in Torkshire. It is not always, however, easy to distin-
quisli between the Anglian of Hie first colonists and the Danish of the
new comers ; and, in further complication, the Norwedans, who estab-
lidied themselves on the western coasts, spread over Cumberland and
Westmoreland, and descended thence into the Torkshire dales, where, he-
ados maAy personal names, the waterfalls, as in Norway, are still called
** forces " or ''fosses," and the mountains ''fells* Norwegians may
also have settled in other parts of Yorkshire, since many of the ncMthem
kinzB who ruled for a time in York, — Olaf, for example, and Eric
Bknaei, the son of Handd, — came from Norway, and must have
Ivcyc^t with them numerous, followers. An accurate distinction be-
tween the 3 tongues — Anglian, Danish, and Norwegian-^^md the assign-
ii^ to each its proper share in the naming of Yorkshire places, is a task
which has still to oe performed b^ local etymologists. Worssae (' The
Danes in England') probably gives tax more to the Danes than is
lealfy due to them. Assistance of the highest value has been furnished
by a 'Glossary of the Cleveland Dialect, by the Bev. J. C. AtkinsoxL
long vfcar of Daul>y, near Cadtleton, in the centre of the district to
which he has given so much careM attention. An excellent and
exhaustive ' History of Cleveland ' has been also published by him.
The author is a sound northern scholar, and his knowledge of Danish
in aQ its forms has enabled him to illustrate the cognate dialect
of dereland in a very remarkable nianner.
The Danish ^Idngdom** of Northumbria gave ''fesltv oaths** to
Alfred and to Athebtone, and afterwards to Eadmund aud to Eadred.
zvi Eiriory^ Inirod.
When the Danei had heoome nppennoet in Engbnd, Gnnt aingned
the kingdom to a certain Eric, ana thenceforward the ooontry formed
one of those great earldoms which arose as the power of the king be-
came less evident. Tostig, the brother of Harold^ was Earl of Normnm-
bria under the Confessor, and a remarkable record of him still exists at
Kirkdale (Rte. 18a). In 1066 he wsa expelled, and '* Morkere. son of
Earl ^Ifear," was chosen earl. Tostig afterwards fell at Stamfonl
Bridge fitting on the side of Harald of Norway (Rte. 8^; and Mor-
kere and his brother Eadwine, the two most powerful earls m the north,
after submitting to the Conqueror, ''fled away firom Mm* in 1072.
Eadwine was kuled by his own men. Morkere joined Herewaid in £Iy^
but finally again submitted to the " alien king.*^^
§ XYII.— It was not until the summer of 1068 that William led his
army to York and built his castle there. In October of the following
year the associated Northmen and Northumbrians came up the Humber,
attacked and took Tork, and burnt the city. (See Forik, Castle^ Rte. 1.)
The famous devastation of Northumbria by the Conqueroi's army fol-^
lowed. It continued throughout the whole winter (" per totam hyemem
devastare, hominesque trucidare, et multa alia non cessabat agere,** says
Hoveden, of the Conqueror), and was succeeded by a terrible fiunine
which continued for 9 years. ''Terra cultore destituta, lata uHqae
solitude patebat per novem annos. Inter Eboracum et Dunelmum, nus-
quam villa inhaHtata ; bestiamm tantum et latronum latibula magno
itinerantibus fuere timorL** — Eovedm. From this time the name of
Northumbria, or "Northumberland," is confined to the country beyond
the Tyne, the andent Bemicia ; and Torkshire is henceforth known by
its present name^ — ^in Domesday •♦ Everwicscyra.* CPor a full history
of the Conqueror's proceedings in the north, see FrwmamCt ' Normaa
Conquest,* voL iv.)
{ XVIII.— The most powerful Norman houses established in Tork-
shire after the Conquest, or within the next half-centuiy, were those
of FtTcy^ of Laey^ of Mowbray, of Clifford^ and of Alan €f Brittany
at Richmond. At a lator period appear the Scrapes of Upsall and Bol-
ton. William de Ferd is said to have married a daughter of the great
Saxon Earl Gospatric^ of whose lands at Seamer, near Scarborough, he
had taken possession. He received from the Conqueror 86 lordships in
Yorkshire, including Topdiffe (Rte. 22) and Spofforth (Rte. 43), where
were the chief "Percy strongholds, until, in 1309, Antony Bek^ the
great Bishop of Durham, granted and sold the biuony of Alnwick to
Lord Henry Percy. Henceforth they are truly " Percies owte of North-
umberlande," although they still retained their Torkshire lordships and
influence. The Law fee extended for the most part round Pontefract (Rte*
28); but eventually their lands stretched across the ooimtry almost
without a break, as far as Clitheroe Castle, their Lancashire stronghold ;
the great Mowbray Castle was at Thirsk (Rte. 16); and the northern
portion of the so-called plain of Tork — the comparative level or valley
Detween the hill-ranses E. and W. — was almost entirdy in their hands.
The Cliffordi from Skipton Castle (Rte. 30) ruled much of Craven and
Introd* Hidory. xvii
y» •d^ondne <x>imtar7, and the '^Hbmmr^of i?«cAffi<7n<f (Bte. 25) was
fopraDM In <Ae K.W. For Bolton and the Sorope? see Rte. 24«
§ XIX.— These great Nonnan lords, and their sub-infeudatori€S,
seem to haye been actire in church-building after Yorkshire had some-
what recovered from the Conqueror's devastation. To them are due ^e
many amaU Korman churches noticed in the following division {Atiti'
9«f<MS, — ecclesiastical section), ^very religious house in the county
(Bcv«icy, Bte. 8, which William is said to have spared, was a college
of secular canons) had fallen during the troubles preceding and follow-
ing the Conquest St Maiy's at Yoik <Ete. 1) and Whitby (Rte. 14)
were lefoonded \xf certain Benedictines who came from Evesham. For
the irery curioua story of the foundation of Selby, see Rte. 1 ; but it
via not until tiie 12th century that Yorkshire became rich in those
neat mooaatie houses which from that time formed one of the chief
tenrea of the county. Thurstan Abp. of York (1119-1140), the
firiend and oorrespondent of St Bernard, was a most powerful patron of
the CSaterdaDS, whose first Yorkshire house, Rievanlx, was founded in
USL It it scarcely too much to assert, as Mr. Raine (* Lives of the
AiehUabopa of York*) has done, that, after 8t Bernard, Thurstan was
at thda time the most active supporter and reformer of monachism in
Einope. For the history of foundations influenced or assisted by him, see
wpmtXtf BiemtOx (Rte. 18a) and Fountains (Rte. 22). ^|ee also, for
the genial history of monarchism in Yorkshire, Rainess 'Lives of the
Avchbishcpa ' and the ' Memorials of Foomtains Abbey,' edited, with most
^«hiabla notes and introdoctionsy by Mr. J. R. Walbran, for the Surtees
Society^ The Oisiercians had in Yorkshire 8 houses for men — Rie-
vaioh; ^oontaina, Byland, Sawley, Roche, Meaux, Kirkstall, and Jore-
vanfac— besides 11 for women (none of which were of great wealth or
importance). The 8 great Benedictine houses were St Mary's at York,
Whitby^ and Selby. They had also IS priories or lesser houses, some
of which were for women. The Cluniaes had only 2 houses in York-
shire—at Bcmtefiact and Monk Bretton. The Gcwikurians also had but
2-^ Hull and at Mount Grace. There were 11 honsea of Avguati-
MOMf the most important of whidi were Guisborough, Nostel, Brid-
lington, Bolton, Kirkham, and Newburgh. The Frtmanstratensians
ware «atabtished at Easby near Richmond, at Coverham, and at Eg-
gkatoiu There were 4 houses of OUbertmes in the county, of which
Malton was the most important The Dominicans, Franciscans, and
other friars were well repiesented in the principal towns, and had alto-
geftfaer 28 bouses. .
The only mitred abbots N. of the Trent were those of St Mary's,
York, and of Selby. St Mary's was the wealthiest abbey in Yorkshiie,
its rental at the Dissolution being 16502. Fountains, with a rental of
9961, came next; then Selby, 7292.; and then Guisborough, 7122.
The power and resources of a great monastery, however, can hardly be
tntod from rental i^one, espeoaliy from rental as computed by Henry
vm.'iB cGsnmissioners; and it is probable that, if St Mary's received a
hoger apparent income, Fountains, from the vast extent of its lands and
[YarkBhire.-] ^
zyiii SUtory. InirocL
its enormous property in fitock^ was of Bcflroely less weight and im-
portance. All the Cistercian houses were rich ; and aIthoti|h the Angus*
tinians possessed stately priories and were very wealthy, it wonld seem
that the former order was, on the wholes the most powerM in the
county.
The creation of a second metropolitical see at York formed part of
Pope Gregory's original plan for the ecclesiastical rule of England.
(Beda, H. K, 1. i. c. 29.) For the subaeauent disputes and arrange-
ments between York and Canterbury, see Rte. 1, York (Minbter, § I.).
Mr. Raine's * Lives of the Archbishops of York' contains a great mass
of information on this subject.
§ XX. — The most important events in the history of Yorkshire after
the Conquest have be^n noticed at length in describing the different places
with which they are connected. It is sufficient to mention here the battle
of the Standard, a.d. 1138 (Rte. 16) ; the Scottish/araye under the Black
Douglas in 1322, when the Earl of Richmond was taken prisoner in a
skirmish among the hills near By land, and Edward II. was compelled
to escape in haste from the neighbourhood (see Rtes. 18 and 18a, By^
land, Bievaulx) ; the rising in the same year, 1322, of the Earls of
Lancaster and Hereford against Edward II. ; the JxMe of Borcfuglibridge
(Rte, 19), and the execution of the great Earl of Lancaster at Pontefract
(Rte. 28) ; the landing of Eenry <f Bdinghrcke (Hen. IV;) at Ravenser
or Ravenspume (Rte. eV; the ridng of the northern carls and of Arch"
hiahop Scrqpe against Henry IV. (Rte. 1, York, Minster, § XX., and
Bishopthorpe); the battle qf Wakefidd (Rte. 38); the skirmish at
Ferrybridge (Rte, 2) ; and the subsequent Battle of Towton (Rte. 43).
The close connection of Richard HL with Yorkshire has been merred to
under Middlekam (Rte. 23).
The Reformation, and events connected with it, gave rise to two most
serious disturbances in the northern counties — the ''Pilgrimage of
Grace " in 1636, and the '• Rising of the North " in 1669.
§ XXI.— The rising called the " Pilgrimage of Orace^ was due
mainly to the- disaffected condition of the northern monks and clerg^^
who, always violently opposed to the changes in religion, had (1536)
been greatly excited by the commission for suppressiog the lesser monas-
teries; but it also owed much of its strengtii to the discontent of the
commons in consequence of enclosures and of alterations in their old
system of life, and to the jealousy and dislike of the old nobility to the
rise of new men, like Cromwell, which had followed in the train of
the Reformation. The first outbreak occurred (October, 1536) at Louth
and at Lincobi, and the Duke of Suffolk was sent to suppress it; but it
had been premature and without organization, and the men who had
gaiher^i dispersed within a fortnight. In Yorkshire it was different.
Almost by accident, as it appears, Robert Aske, the second son of Aske
of Aughton on the Derwent (see Rte. 8), was taken by the rebels as he
attempted to pass through Lincolnshire during the insurrection, and com-
pelled to take the oath which bound him to their cause. After a few
oavB, and still, as he declared, undecided, he returned into Yorkshire,
Inirod. HisUny. xiz
only to find the whole county in movement* His own name was the
watchword; and in his absence, a letter bearing his signature had been
sent throughout Yorkshire callkig on the comn^ons to rise in defence of
the Chun£. Lord Daicy, to whom the King had vrittenyand who was
at this time the feudal superior of the E. Biding, was in reality favour-
able to the cause of the insurgents, but played into their hands without
so declaring himself. He shut himself up in Pontefract Castle with
only 12 followers, and without provisions. Meanwhile the great body
of insurgents met on Market Weighton Common. Aske was acknow-
ledged as the commander of the entire force. Sir Thomas Percys brother
of Uie Earl of Northumberland, joined them, and they moved direct on
Torky which at once surrendered. Thence they marched to Pontefract,
where they compelled Lord Baicy to surrender the castle, and he, with
the Archbishop of Tork» who had joined him there, and all others
within the walls, took the popular oath. The Earl of Shrewsbury was
advancing with the king's troops; but the passes of the Don were
secured^ and he was compelled to remain at Doncaster. Hull was taken
by the insuigents ; who, m the W., were laying siege to Skipton Castle,
(For a story connected with this siege» see Skipton, Hte. dO.) In the
mean time an enormous gathering of the great northern families had
taken place at Pontefract. The Cliffords, the Dacres, the Musgraves,
and the dying Earl of Northumberland (his brother had joined it^ alone
were absent; and from Pontefract they marched in three divisions upon
Doncaster, where the Duke of Norfolk had joined Shrewsbury. They
intended, as Aske told Lancaster Herald, whom Shrewsbuiy had sent to
Pontefract^ " to go to London of pilgrimage to the King's Highness, and
there to have all the vile blood of &s council put from him and aU the
noble blood set up again, and also the faith of Christ and his laws to
be kept, and full restitution of Christ's Church of all wrongs done unto
it; and also the commonalty to be used as they should be.'* They had
with them the banner of St. Cuthb^, and another displaying, among
other devices, the 6 wounds of Christ. Each of the insurgents wore a
badge also crossed with the 5 wounds.
At Doncaster they found the river heavily swollen ; and afler some
discussion a conference (Oct. 26, 1536) took place on the bridge be-
tween certain of the leaders on both sides. The insurgents seem to
have been deceived by their great strength ; and instead of forcing the
raasaee of the Don, they agr^ that Sir Robert Bowes and Sir &1ph
Ellerkar should cany their demands to the king, whilst Norfolk under-
took to escort them in person. In the mean time the musters on either
side were to be disbanded. Henry received the messengers graciously,
bat detained them a fortnight^ gained them over to himself and sent
back by them letters to others of the rebel leaders, which were meant to
produce a similar result. Meanwhile disturbances continued in many
jwrts of Yorkshire. The monks were replaced in their abbeys ; and it
began to be feared that Aske, Lord Darcy, and Sir Robert Constable,
the 3 principal leaders, would cross the Humber and advance southward,
Th^ king's delay in replying to the representations made by the mes-
b 2
zx HuAory. Introd.
Bengers greatly excited the msurgents. Aske again collected his army
(Nov. 27) ; and a council of notables and convocation of the clergy was
assembled at Pontefract. Aske, with 34 peers and knights, and others
of the leaders, sate in the castle hall ; the Arehbishop of York and bis
clergy in the church below tho castle. (See Bte. 28.) The archbishop,
however, who had taken the popular oath under constraint^ declared in
his opening sermon that the assembly was unlawful and the insurrection
traitorous. He was dragged out of the pulpit and nearly killed ; and
after he had been carried off by a party of his friends, the dei^y drew
up a list of articles pronouncing successively against every step of the
Beformation. The king's commissioners had in the mean time arrived
at Doncaster, and brought with them what Aske and the rebel leaders
seem to have understora as the grant of their entire petitioiL A con-
ference again took nlaoe; and at its close, Aske and the others pulled
off their badges ana declared that ^henceforth they would wear no
badge but that of their sovereign lord.'* All that Henry had really
granted, however, was a general pardon, and the promise of a parlia-
ment at York in the following summer. The great Council of the North
was also to be established at York, with the Duke of Norfolk as its first
president
Aske had been sent for to London by the king, who desired to see the
man who had almost shaken his throne. He was well received, and gave
a full account of the rising to Henry ; but on his return northwain he
found the counties he paased through full of angry excitement at the
doubts which everywhere prevailed as to the intentions of the king ;
and he wrote to Henry stating plainly what he himself thought, that a
second outbreak was imminent. It occurred accordingly; and Sir
Fnutcis Bigot, of Mulgrave Castle, made himself its leader for the short
time it lasted. Nothing was effected by it, except the affording of an
3xcuae to the king for withdrawing his concessions. Norfolk arrived at
York with orders to punish all offences committed after the Doncaster
conference. Fresh disturbances took place. Martial law was proclaimed
in northern Yorkshire and the neighbouring counties. Seventy-four
persons, inclndins many clergy and monks, were hanged in various j
towns of Cumberuind and Westmoreland, and the rebellion was finally!
extinguished. Aske, Darcy, and Constable were arrested and taken to'
the Tower — how far having compromised themselves in the later risin«c,
or with B^nald Pole, who was now at Lifege, is quite uncertain. They
were tried and executed — Darcy in London, Constable in Hull, and
Aske at York. Whatever may be thought of other leaders, there can
be little doubt that Aske himself was, in Mr. Froude's words, "a brave,
simple, noble-minded man," and perhaps as little that he was judici-
ally murdered. There is no better or more complete narrative of this
great insurrection than will be found ill Froude, * History of England/
vol. iii., chaps. 13 and 14.
§ XXn. — ^After the suppression of this insurrection the so-called
" Council qf the North " was established by Henry VHI., with its head-
quarters at York. It had a criminal jurisdiction in Yorkshire and the
Introd. Bistorp. xxi
4 more nortLeni oocmtSeB ad to riots, coiis{»nicies, and acts of Tiolekice.
It had also a certain dvil jurisdiction, which Lord Wentworth, afterwards
Ear] of Strafiford, after his appointment as President of the Council in
162^ spared no pains to enlarge, and procured for this purpose a special
commisw'ofn, the effect (rf* which was to deprive all these northern counties
of Uie priyileges of the common law. The Long Parliament, when it
aboiisbod the Star Chamher (1641), annihilated, by the same act» the
arhitjary jurisdiction of this X^orthem Council, together with that of tbo
Council of Wales. The best lawyers, including Sir Edward Coke, had
alwaya looked on the legality of such tribunals as, to say the least, ex*
tremely problematical. (See Hallam, ' Constitutional History/ ii. 43« 99.).
{ XXnL — Of the rebellion in 1569, generally known as the Rising in
Atf Nmik, the best and fullest accounts will be found in Fronde's ' History
of England,' toL ix., and in ' Memorials of the Bebellion,' edited by Sir
Oathbert Sharp. The proposal for a marriage between Mary Stuart
and the Duke of Norfolk, which had been nrst broached during the
fitting of the commission at York in October, 1568, had led to fresh
oombuiatkms and conspiracies. Preparations had be^ made for a gen&«
111 rising m the eastern counties, where Norfolk was supreme, and in
the N. of England, where the great lords were nearly aJl Catholics.
The ob)ects were the liberation of Mary and her recognition as next
heir to the crown, the deposition and probably the death of Cecil, and
the pBstoration of the "old religion.'* But Norfolk, wavering and in*
capable, allowed himself to be detoched by Cecil from the other oonspi-
nilosft ; and after playing for a short time a double game, was safely
lodged in the Tower. This was in October, 1569 ; when the northern
lorajB — the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland, Leonard Dacres
of Naworth, the Nortons of Norton Conyers, and a number of gentle-
men, were assembled at Topcliffe, the Earl of Northumberland's house,
watting for news that the eastern counties had risen. Instead came a
meBsenser from the duke, begging them *' not to stir, or he would lose
bis head.'* But their preparations were too complete to dlow of con-
cealment. Nearly the whole of Yorkshire was in their &vour; and
after some hesitation at Topcliffe and at Baby, the earls (mainly by the
persuasion of their countesses, who seem to have been made of ''sterner
stuff") lefosed to obey the queen's summons to London, and the rising
commenced, the declared object being the restoration of religion. Bodies
of armed men from all points assembled at Baby ; thence Ihey marched
to Durham, where (November 14) Northumberland, Westmoreland, Sir
Christopher and'Sir Cuthbert Neville, and old Bichard Norton, strode
hrto the cathedral, " with 60 followers armed to the teeth behind them ;
Norton with a massive gold erucifiz hanging from his neok, and carry-
ing the old banner of the Pilgrimage of GrtuDe, the cross and streamers
and the 5 wounds." They overthrew the ** Communion board," tore the
English Bible and Prayerbook to pieces, replaced the ancient altar, and
cained mass to be sung with all solemnity. From Durham ihey moved
& to Daflington, gathering force as they went, and making everywhere
piDclamatioD of their intention to restore the *' ancient and Catholio
xxii History. Introd.
faith.* They were not opposed by the Earl of Sussex, who was then at
York, as Lord President of the Council, but who had no regular troops
at command* They passed from Darlington to Bipon (where mass was
sung in the minster), to Enaresborough, and Tadcaster, intending to
make first for Tuthury, where the Queen of Scots then was, and, after
releasine her, to mardi on London. Bi^t when they were within 50
miles of Tutbury, Mair was hastily removed to Coventry, and so placed
beyond their reach. With her removal the earls lost the game. Alva,
with whom they had been in correspondence, would not stir until Mary
was free ; and others who favoured their cause in England waited for
Alva. After waiting for some days near Tadcaster the earls retreated
northward, hoping to hold N. Yorkshire, Northumberland, and Dur-
ham. But the Court had been thoroughly alarmed. A southern force
was on the move, and by the 30th of November the rebel army was
broken up. Northumberland went back to Durham. Westmoreland
paused before Barnard Castle, where Sir George Bowes had entrenched
nimself with a few followers. He was compelled to surrender after a
few days' siege, and Westmoreland went on to Baby. Dacres was at
Carlisle with Lord Scrope, and had withdrawn himself from his old
companions. The (queen's array was advancing, and ^December 20) the
two earls, their ladies^ the Nortons, Markenfield, and a few others who
still held together, having rested the nieht before at Naworth, sue*
ceeded in crossing the Border. There tney found at first a refuge
among the outlaws and mosstroopers, and afterwards (Westmoreland
and £e Nortons) at Femihurst, the stronghold of the Kers, 2 miles
above Jedburgh. Northumherland was taken by stratagem, delivered
to the Begent Murray, and confined in the same rooms in Lochleven
Castle which had been occupied by Mary. There he remained until
May, 1572, when he was given over to Elizabeth ; and, after having
been carried along the line of the rebellion to Durham, to Baby, and to
his own house at Topcliffe, he was beheaded (August 22) in ^ Pave-
ment at York. The Earl and Countess of Westmoreland, the Countess
of Northumberland, old Norton and 2 of his sonSy escaped frcnn Scot-*
land to Flanders.
The punishment which followed the rebellion in Yorkshire and Dui^
ham was beyond example crueL No blow had been struck, and
hardly a life had been lost; but a general seizure of all persons im-
plicated was made on a certain night, and from them 600 or 700 arti-
zans, lahoorers, or poor tenant farmers, were picked out for summary
-execution. They were hanged in the different towns through which
the insurgents had passed. Those who had property were afterwards
tried at xork. Eleven were found guilty, 4 of whom were at once put
to death* The lands of the others were escheated.
The ballad of the *Bisin? of the North' will be found la Percy's
' Belies ' and in Ingledew's ' Yorkshire Ballads.'
{ XXIY. — ^The events before and immediately following the outbreak
of the civil war are closely connected with York. The details will be
found in every History of Uie period. In 1640 Charles L was at York
inirocL Utitory. zxlii
with his aiWy ^paring to iovade Scotland, which cofintry had broken
into open war after Laud's appointment of bishopa and the imposition
cf the English litorgy. The Scottish army crossed the Tweed Aug. 20,
and soon made themselves masters of iforthumberland and Durham.
On the 24th of September the king summoned a great council of peers
to assemble at York. By their advice a Parliament (the famous Long
Parliament} was proclaimed to meet on the 3rd of November. Sixteen
peeiB then went to Bipon to negotiate with the Scots^ but the commis-
I aoon withdrew thence to London, ' -
Towaord the latter end of March, 1642 (the attempt to arrest the 5
membcro had been made in January, and Charles left Whitehall on the
10th of that monthl the king was again in York. The civil war Was
on the point of brealdi^ out» Many of the peers and some of the com-
mooa withdrew from London to York ; and during his stay here Charles,
who was lodged in the palace built out of the ruins of St. Mary's (it
is now known as the Manor-bouse, see Bte* 1), issued numerous im-
portant state papers and proclamations in answer to the demands and
Mwrtions of the Parliament. From York he rode to Hull (April 23,
1642) to demand the submission of Sir John Hotham (Bte. 3), and
afterw»Tda to besiege the town ; and from York he set out to raise his
etaiMiaidAt Nottingham (August 22). Yorkshire was for the most part
royalist; and at the end of 1643 ^a line drawn from Hull to South-
amptcn would suggest no very incorrect idea of the two parties, con-
sidered as to their military occupation of the kingdom.** — Hallam. The
Esirlftxes, however, were active and powerful on $he si^e of the Piirlia-
onent, and inflicted some serious losses on the king's troops under New-
castle before they retreated into Hull in Jnly 1643. Newcastle then
besieged Hull, but was compelled to abandon his position. The siege
of York by the Fairfaxes, Manchester, and Leven followed (June, 1644) ;
and in July was fought the battle of MarsCon Moor Qlte. 20). York after-
wards surrendered on honoumble conditions to the rarliamentarians ; but
Yorkshire claims the honour of possessing the 2 strongholds which held
oot kst for the king — Beaxhortmgh (surrendered July, 1645, and again
held for Charles from August to i)ecember, 1648, see Bte. 12), and
Fontffract (Bte. 28), which did not surrender until after the death of
Charlee, and was the first place in England in which his successor
was proclaimed.
§ XXV.— But little public history has since been connected with
Yorkshire. The county was vigorously Hanoverian in 1745, when
krge sums were subscribed throughout it for its due protection against
the Jaoolnte invaders. A curious list of the subscribers was printed,
showing, from such insertions as " the young gentlemen of Beverley
sdiool," ** the young ladies of Pontefract," and many similar, how warm
and general was the feeling for the Government. Archbishop Herring
was most active on this occasion \ and it was no doubt owing to his
exertions that Yorkshire made bo decided a display of opinion, mainly
inflnendng the struggle.
( XXYI.— Throughout the laat century York was the centre of society
xxiv Antiguities, InttoA,
in the N. of England ; and many of the eonnty gentiy had booses hero
in which they passed the winter. The city had been noted for its lile
and hospitality from the days of Elizabeth 2 —
** Yorke, Yorke ibr my monie^
Of all th« aittie» that eTer I tet^
For meny prntime and oompanie.
Except the oittie of X^oodon.'*
With the present eentnry the importanoe of York in thb respeet begaa
slowly to decline, partly owing to better roads and to greater securfty
of travelling, whidx reaidered the joaroey to liondon less formidable*
If York declined, however, the great manvfacfcniing towns of Yorkshird
were rising to an importance suoh as the chief city of the connty had
scarcely ever possessed. Daring the balf-century between J 800 and
1850, Leeds, Bradf(xd, Hali&x» Huddersfield» and BhefiSeld, with their
numerous dependencies^ have become great centres of English wealth
and enterprise. They had before becD places of much eonsequence i
bnt it is since the bednning of the present century that their numu-
factores have so largely increased, and that that vast peouktbn has
grown op in and around ibem which has made the W. Biding so great
a power in political questions, aiid has caused its repie8entatiQ& in Put-
liament to be so eagerly sought
AlTTIQUITIES^
§ XXTII. Primcevai and British. — ^Yorkshire is in reality richer than
most English counties in memorials of the ancient races by whom her soil
has been occupied at different times. But these are lor the mcst pari
below the surface, and are contained in the innumemble ^'hooes** (the
word is connected with the Icelandic *' hoie'^s=a erave-mound, and with
the S. Saxon A^o^^high) and tumuli which dot the surface of ^o
wolds^ and of the moors of Cleveland and the N JB. district. Many of
these graves have been systematically explored under the direction of the
Rev. J. Q. Atkinson (on the moors) and of the Bev. William Greenwell of
Durham. The contents of the houes on the northern moors seems to
indicate that they are of greater antiquity than those on the wolda.
(See them figured and described in Atkinton^^ 'Hist of Cleveland').
On the wolds, two distinct types of skull have been found ; and proofs of
interment both after cremation and by simple inhumation. In both cases,
however (as is proved by cases in which the body was burnt on the spot,
and the bones have been found only partially calciDed), the body was
contracted, with the knees dmwn up on the breast, and the hands placed
over the face. Numbers of urns, some of very good workmanship, and
flint weapons, occasionally very fine and perfect, are found in these
houes. Metal is very rare, and has only been discovered in such gmvea
as are evidently of later date. In some of the mounds remains of bodies
which had been broken and divided were found, generally on the
side of the houe, and at some little distance from the principal inter*
menu It is uncertain whether these are relioB of the funenil feast, |q«
Inlrod. AiUiguittcs. xtr
dicfttiog that some of tbe ancient tribes were cannibals, or wbetber they
wen boidiee of slaves sacrificed and mutilated on their master's death. It
k probable that the greater part of these graves are of &r earlier date
ihia the Boman occupation ; but farther examination and comparison
an neeessaiy before their age, or the ethnological character of the races
whose remains are found in them, can be determined with certainty.
TJrna, flint implements, and various antiquities from these and other
primitiTe graves in Yorkshire, may be seen in the museums at York,
Leeds, Whitby, and Scarborough. (The results of Mr. Greenweirs
RseairiieB will be published in his * Decade of Northumbrian Skulls.'
Brief aocoonts have appeared in tiie * Times' and elsewhere. For
Borae jnterasting notices of Yorkshire gfaves, see FhilUps's 'Bivers, &c^
of Yoriohire/and Journal of the Archseol. Institute, York vol.)
Kumerons foundations of primitive houses and villages exist on the
KJL mooES^ probably in far greater numbers than have been hitherto
examimi or described. These foundations are circular pits, 8 or 4 ft.
dfep, paTod in many instances with small stones, and sometimes
with a xaiaed border of earth. They are sometimes (as at Danby)
in parallel lines ; sometimes (as at Egton Orange) irregularly
BcattefBd over the ground, with each pit separated by a ridge suiB*
rientlj wide for a man to pass. The most remarkable of these villages
ire on Danby Moor (Ete. 15), at Egton Orange (Kte. 14), the " Killing
Pits" near Ooathland (Rte. 14)f in Harwood Dale^ near the Falcon
Inn, between Scarboiough and Whitby (Bte. 12), and below Boseberry
Topping (Bte. 15). A conical or beehive*shaped hut, such as might
he seen bat a short time since in some of the Hebrides, and may per*
lope still exist there, was constructed of turfs, or of branches of trees, on
these fouDdations, which, there can bo little doubt, were those of Bri-
gintiaa Tillages existing before and during the Boman occupation.
"This most have been a scattered population of shepherds, who have
left trace* of long, but not altogether peaceful oocui4tion." — PkiUips,
The Bomsn camp at Gawthome (Bte. 14) probably held them in some
suljeotioii. There was no large Boman town in the district.
Sonie hut foundations of different character— being excavated pits
with tJie earth thrown inward so as slightly to raise the centre — are
cud to exist on Skipwith Common in the W. Bidini; (see Bte. 1, Exc.
6om York) ; but these are doubtftil and but slightly marked. On the
Aunmit or Jngleborouffh (Bte. 82a) are stone foundations of circular
huts, somewhat resembling those at Oreavesash in Northumberland, and
on Dartmoor in Devonshire. It is somewhat remarkable that neither
in the dales of western Yorkshire, nor on the moors of its southern
hordsr, have any similar remains been noticed, although from other
indieations it is dear that these portions of tiie county were far from
I sUms mcnuments^mich as the cireles, cromlechs, and tolmens of
Wakes and Cornwall — Yorkshire is not rich. Many single stones, or
stones plaoed in groups of 8 or 4 together (and called on the N.K. moors
MdeaUmes^ a name which has not been explained), are found here and
tbefft ii^ dtfforeot parts of the oounty ; but toe absence of larger menu*
xxvi Antiquitkis. Introd.
ments is notioeable, and is certainly not owing to want of daiabte and
easily-worked stone. A few stone circles (of small size and of little
importance) also occur (especially on the hills about Settle). Many
isolated blocks have received the name of '* rocking-stones, for the
most port without reason, and have been assigned, as usual, to the
Druids. They are in almost all cases ice-drifts, and their original beds,
as well as the line of their ** migration,'' can often be traced. (See
l^te. d2A.) The rocks at Brimham (Hte. 21V with which the name of
the Druids has also been connected, are equally natural
The most striking stone monuments in Yorkidiire are, however, the
"Menhir," or single shaft, called the RudstoM fRte. 13), and the
BwiCs ArrowMj near Boiooghbridge (Bt& 19). The latter may possibly
be Roman.
Laige earihen moundSy generally circular, are found in different parts
of Yorkshire (for the most part on the wolds^ on the Cleveland 3£oor9,
and in the old district of Elmete), and generally in connection with
British villages. There is one near the huts on Danby Moor (Rte. 15),
others at Lo/thouse (Rte. 14), at Crapton near Pickering (Rte. 14), at
JBiippax (Rte. 42), and elaewhere. The finest and most remarkable
examples are at Barwick in ElmeU TRte. 42) and at lAught(Hi"e&<-le
Morthen Hlte. 47). These mounds nave been called **raths" by
Professor Philliiis ('Rivers, &C., of Yorkshire'), a name which is not
local ; and although similar green mounds are known as ** raths " in
Ireland, it seems undesirable to transfer it elsewhere. Mr. G. T. Clark
regards them as of Saxon or English construction, and considers that
they always mark the site of an English " strength " or defended man-
sion. They were palisaded, and the structure raised on them was
never of stone in the first instance. But when Korman lords suc-
ceeded to these English strongholds, they often built a shell keep on
the mound, and converted the ancient earthworks into a portion of the
defences of a Norman castle. The best examples of this treatment are
at Font^rad rRte. 28) and at TickkiU (Rte. 47). Coningthorough
(Rte. 40) has a keep of a different character, but the earthworks are of
the same early date. Yorkshire is especially rich in such mounds and
earthworks.
Some very remarkable eiretdar eartkivorks exist in the neighbour-
hood of Ripon, at Blois Hall, and at Thornborough (see Rte. 22).
There are others of similar character near Penistone (Rte. 44), and from
their peculiar character it has been suggested that they are rather
temples than places for defence. They are surrounded by a mound and
an inner trendi. The arrangement in the great circle at Abury is the
same ; and many stone circles in Scotland (especially in Aberdeenshire —
see Col. Forbes Leslie's 'Early Races of Scotland') are placed within
similar mounds. In most of these cases the trench is on the inner side
of the mound. There are no upright stones and no traces of their fonner
existence within the Yorkshire droles.
Of British eampi the most remarkable is perhaps Almondbury^ near
Huddersfield (Rte. 37), which, however, shows evident marks of Roman
cccupation. It is perhaps noticeable that veiy few traces of strong
Introd. JLniiquiUUsm ' xxvii
Bdtiah campe exist in Yorkshire^ except an the soatb-eaBtem border,
—M al Winoobank^ Rte. 46; Mexborough, Bte. 40; and perbaps Con-
iaesborangh, Bte. 40. (It must be lemembered tbat many a Biitish
cunp may have been adopted as an English stronghold, Just as these
latter were adopted by the Normans.) On the other hand, few parts of
England contain such numecoos and extensive dykes and earthworks.
The woids.andtheskirtsof the hills on the N. side of the Yale of Picker-
ing are covered -with these entrenchments. (See Bte. 11.) The most
extensive works of this class are between Sheffield and Mexborou^,
on the lidge of hills 1. of the Don (Bte. 45), and between Gattenck
oo the Swale and Galnfoid on l^e Tees. (Bte. 25. T^ese latter have
been most careftdly examined and pUnned by Mr. Maclachlan, at the
cost of the late Dake of Northumberland. See his paper in the Journal
of the AnshsBoL Iilstitnte, voL vi.) The Wold Dykes are hardly less
iaporCanU The Ikxnet^ Dyke, at Fhimborough (Bte. 1S\ outs off the
eethe pfiociiontoiT. It is. evident that all tbese entrenchments were
oQostraeted kit ddence, and that they formed at different times- the
bocndary-lineB of the races who raised them. But their date is by no
means so clear ; and perhaps all that can be said with certainty is that
tbef aze pre-Bconan.
f XXVIII. — Boman and Anglian. The most important Soman le-
mains in Yorkshire are the Mtdtangtdar Tower at York (Bte. 1\ and
the numerous relics at Aldborough, the ancient Isurium (Bte. 1*9). At
Catteriek Bridge (Bte. 25) are traces of the station of Cataractonium ;
scd some remains, found on the site, are preserved in the neighbouring
Broagb filall. llie outline ot the Boman station is traceable at Old
Mamn (Rte. 12), and a (probably) Boman bridee exists near Tadoaster
(Caicaiia, Bte. 43). Yorkshire was covered vrim Boman roads. Many
Boman relics^ altars, inscribed stones, sepulchral urns, personal oma-
raeots, and weapons — will be found in the museums at York, Leeds,
Scarbonmgh, and Whitby. ^A map of British and Boman Yorkshire, in
vhidi the sites of British villages, earthworks and stone monuments,
Bcman statbns, and the lines of Bomail road are carefully marked, was
prmred by Mr. Newtcni for the meeting of the Archaeological Institute
u York in 1846. It is to be had at the ofBce of the Institute.)
Of the Anglian and DantnA period the most evident relics are the
Barnes of places and the local dialects. Fine and interesting remains
lave been foand in tombs of this period, as well heathen as Christian.
Some of these are preserved in the public museums, and need not be
particdiarly described here. Parts 6f churches, apparently of earlier
date than &e Conquest, are noticed in the following section.
{ XXIX. — Mediaeval, Yorkshire is especially rich in both ecclesias*
tical and military architecture. Other counties can perhaps show more
important domestic buildings, but some of the Yorkshire castles are of
high interest, and no part of England contains more important raoDaatic
remains. Those of tiie great Cistercian abbeys are indeed unequalled in
Europe.
f XXX.— Of the cAiircAa the following deserve notice. The most
impdrtani are marked by an asterisk.
xxviii AiUigtUti^B* Introcl.
SaoDon, — ^*Eirkdale, f)ortal with inscription, Bte. 18a ; *Kirk Hamei^
ton, tower, S. side and K end, Bte. 20 ; Skipwith, lower part of tower,
Bte. 1 ; *Aldborough, insoription and fragments from earlier dhuich,
Bte. 6. There are also fragments and sculptured crosses, all of whicK
are probably more ancient than the Conquest and all of great interest,
in the crypt at Lastingham, Bte. 18a; at Hauxwell, Bte. 23; at
Wensley, Bte. 24; at Hackness, Bte. 12 ; at Ilkley,'Bte. 30; at Bedale,
Bte. 23 ; and at Dewsbuiy, Bte. 37.
Norman. — Gampsall, portions, Bte. 2; *Birkin, Bte. 2; St, Deais,
Walmgate, York, rich porlaU Bte. 1; St Margaret's, Walmgate, York,
portal, Bte. 1 ; fHsblake^ portal, Bte. 8 ; *Selby, parts of nave, Bte. 1 ;
Brayton, Bte. 1; Goodmanham, portions, Bte. 8; Bubwith, chancel
arch, Bte. 8 ; Hackness, portions, Bte. 12 ; Budstone, tower, Bte. 13 ;
Pickering, portions, Bte. 14; *La8tingham, crypt, Bta 18a; Whorlton,
nortions, Bte. 15 ; Alne, portal, Bte. 16 ; Feliskirk (rebuilt^ Bte. 18 ;
Northallerton, parts, Bte. 16 ; Hom^, Bte. 23; Spennithorne, parts,
Bte. 23; *Adel, Bte. 28; Leaihley, £. Norm. tower» Bte. 80; Canis-
ton, Bte. 31; Ganingtbarough, Bte. 40; *£ardsey, Bte. 43; Thorpe
Balvin, late Korm. portal, Bte. 47.
2Van»i^tbn.— Arkfley, portions, Bte. 1 ; •Kirkbum, Bte. 8 ; St Kary,
Scarborough, parts, Bte. 12; ♦Filey, portions, Bte. 13; Baskdt parts,
Bte. 16 ; ♦Bipon Minster, transepts and part of choir, Bte. 22 : Wragby ,
Bte. 38.
It is evident that chnrch-boflding must have been very general in
Yorkshire throughout the century that followed the devastation of the
country by the Conqueror. The character of the Yorkshire-Nonnaa
agrees rather with that found in the great churches of eastern England, —
Ely, Peterborough, and Norwich,— than with that in the W., as seen
either at Gloucester or at Herefonl, It is plain and massive ; sometimes
with enriched portals, but generally with little elaborate ornament. The
small churches which retain their original ground-plan deserve especial
notice. Such are Adel and Khrkbum, both more ornamented th^n
usual. Birkin is hardly less interesting^ thou^ it has had some
additions of later date.
Early Engli8h,'^*York Minster, transepts, Bte. 1 ; •Skdtan, Bte. 1 ;
♦Nun Monkton, Bte. 1 ; ♦Snaith, W. front^ Bte. 4 ; Hemingborough, por-
tions, Bte. 5 ; ♦Hedon, choir and transepts, Bte. 6 ; ♦Beverley Minster,
eastern portions, Bte. 8; Bubwith, nave arcade, Bte. 8 ; ♦Old Malton,
Priory church, Bte. 12; Hackness, parts, Bte. 12; Scalby, Bte. 12;
Filey, parts, Bte. 13 ; Hunmanby, nave arcade, Bte. 13 ; ♦Bridlington,
parts, Bte. 13 ; Lastangham, Bte. 18a; Nort;hallert»n, parts, Bte 16 ;
Ampleforth, parts, Bte. 18; Helmsley, parta, Bte. 18a; Kirkdale.
j^arts, Bte. 18a; SUngsby, Bte, 18; Goldsborough, Bte. 20; Knares-
Iwrough, parts, Bte. 20; ♦Bipon Minster, W. front, Bte. 22; Wath,
Bte. 22; Hauxwell, portions, Bte. 23; Wensley, choir, Bte. 24:
Almondbary, chanoel, Bte. 37 ; Towton, parts, Bte. 43.
The B. E. of York, Bipon, and Beverley ranks with the finest ra the
kingdom. The churches of Skelton and Nun Monkton ara especiallv
^teiestittff, and the latter has some anusnal derign. As a rule, the
B. E. of Yorkshire is distinguished by no marked peculiarities.
Iitiod* AntiguiUei. xnx
JkoomietL — ^*Yaik Minster, nave and obapter-hoose, Rte. 1 ; Fiah*
kke, parts, Bte. 3 ; ^Selbj, choir, Early, Rte. 5; *Howden (all but
tcver and cdiapter-honse), Rte. 5; *Holy Trinity, Hnll, transepta and
cboor, Bte. 5 ; *Hedon,. nave, Early, Rte. 6 ; *Patrington, Rte. 6 ; *Be-
Tcrley lOnster, nave, Rte. 8 ; ♦St. Mary's, Beverley, chancel, Rte. 8 ;
•ShcriflF Hutton, Rte. 12; Flamborongh, Rte. 13; ♦Bridlington, parts,
Ete. 13 ; Rndstone, Rte. 13 ; Pickering, parts, Rte. 14 ; Whorlton, parts,
Rte. 16 ; Aldborough, Rte. 19 ; Whitley, tower and nave, Rte. 20 ; Rip-
ky,Rte.21; ♦Bipon Mmster, E. front, Rte. 22 ; Well, Rte. 22 ; ♦Bedafe.
Rte. 23; Spezmithome, portions, Rte. 23; Middleham, Rte. 23; Rich-
i:«sd,parta» Rte. 25; Wycliffe, Rte. 26; Methley (of no great interest
bet ftr the Waterton chantry, which is Perp.), Rte. 28 ; Otley, Rte.
30; Dkley, Bte. 30 ; Wakefield, tower and spire, Rte. 38 ; ♦Thomhill,
cbaaoel and aisles, Rte. 39; ♦parton (late^ Rte. 40; ♦Darfield (very
UteX Ste. 41 ; ^Royston (late), Rte. 41 ; Penistone (late), Rte. 44 ;
*S3kitoiie QaXe}, Rte. 44.
Of Deoontted work, Howden, Hedon, Patrington, the choir of Selby,
peita oC Beverley Minster, and of St. Mary's, Beverley, are very fine ex-
Z3i(^ l%e use of a peculiar pointed ornament (a form of ball-flower)
cay be noted as unusual in the S. of England ; and there is a tendency
h the smaller churches to use the discontinuous impost, in which the
cch-xooaldhigp die into the pier. The group of Late Dec. churdies in
S. Toikshire— Barton, Darfield, Royston, Penistone, and Silkstone —
deservea apecial notice.
Perpendieular, — Campeall (with Perp. roodloft and inscription), Rte.
2 ; ♦Bdtom PerCT, Rte. 2 ; ♦York Minster, choir and presbytery, Rte. 1 ;
Sl Miebael le Belfry, Tork, Rte. 1 ; St. Martin's, Ck>ney Street, York,
Rte. 1 ; Hemingborough, portions, Rte, 5 ; ♦Howden, tower and chapter-
Ionise, Bte. 6; ♦Holy Trinity, Hull, nave, Rte. 6 ; Winestead, Rte. 6 ;
Aldbaroagh, Rte. 6 ; ♦Beverley Minster, N. porch and W. front, Rte. 8 ;
St }UBty% Beverley, nave, Rte. 8 ; ♦South Skirlaugh chapel, Rte. 10; Brid-
liBgUm, W. front, Rte. 13; ♦Thirek, Rte. 16; ♦Coxwold, Rte. 18;
Bc^ertoa, Rte. 19; Ripon Minster, nave, Rte. 22; Tanfield (portions),
Rte. 22 ; Wensley, nave, Rte. 24 ; ♦Catterick, Rte. 25 ; Richmond, Rte.
25; ♦Methley, Waterton chantry, Rte. 28 ; Whitkirk, Rte. 28 ; ♦Hare-
wood, Bte. &; Skipton, Rte. 30; Kirkby Malham, Rte. 32; Gi^les-
vii^ Bte. 32; ♦Bolton-bv-BoUand, Rte. 33 ; Eildwick, Rte. 34; Brad-
ferd, Rte. 35 ; ♦Halifax U;)arish ch.), Rte. 36 ; Almondbury, nave with
ioBaiptioii, Bte. 37 ; Wakefield, Rte. 38 ; Tadcaster, Rte. 43 ; Spofforth,
Bte. ^ ; Sheffield, St. Peter's, Rte. 44 ; ♦Rotherham, Rte. 45 ; ♦Eocles-
field, Bte. 46; ♦Tickhill, Rte. 47.
The choir and presbytery of York Minster were probably among the
€>rtieat Perpendicalar works of importance completed in England. They
greatly influenced subsequent building and design in Yorkshire. The
pest breadth of the chanoel and the squared eastern end, with aisles
tenninating parallel with the retrochoir, are marked features of York,
sad recur on a smaller scale in many parish churches.
Of Jfodsm chniches it will be proper to mention St. Peter's, at Leeds
(Rte. 28) ; St. Georgp's, Doncaster ptte. 1), and All Souls, Haley Hill,
Z2X AnUquiUei* Introd.
Hali&x (Rte. 36), hoisk Tanking among the finest works of Sir G. G.
Scott; Baldersby, a very striking church by Mr. Butterfield (Rte. 22)»
Esorick, F. C. Peniose, architect (Rte. 1\ and Dalton Holme (fite. 8.)
§ XXXI.— The Monastic Bemains of Yorkshire must of oonrse be
studied in connection with the churches, the architecture of which they
in many cases influenced. Those here mentioned are in ruins. The
churches of such monasteries as were retained are included in the former
section.
Benedidine.'^t Mar/s, York (Rte. 1), E. E. ; Whitby (Rte. 14),
E. E. and Dec
(Xfftffcian.— Kirkham (Rte. 12), E. E. and Dec. (fragments) ; By-
land (Rte. 18),Tr.-Norm and B. E.; Rievaulx ; (Rte. 18a), Norm, and
E. E,: Fountains (Rte. 22), Tr.-Norm. and E. E. (the most perfect iu
grouda-plan and in actual remains) ; Jervaulx (Rte. 2S\ Tr.-Norm.
and E. E. ; Kirkstall (Rte. 29), Tr.-Norm.; Sawley (Rte. 33), little but
ground^plan and foundations, 12th cent ; Roche (Rt& 47), Tr.-Norm.
and Dec.
AugusUnian Canons, — Guisborough (Rte. 15), E. Dea, little except
E. window of church remaining ; Bolton (Rte. 30), Dec. and E. E.
PremcmtrateMtan Canons. — Ooverham (Rte, 23), Dec. and Perp^ ;
Easby (Rte. 25), Tr.-Norm. and E. E.; Eggleston (Rte.26), E. E. and Dec.
CariAMwan.— Mount Grace (Rte. 16)rrerp.
(TZtmioc.— Monk Bretton (Rte. 40), E. E. and Dec.
The remains of St. Leonara's Hospital, York (Norm, and E. E.), and
St Anthony's Hospital, York (Perp.), should also be mentioned. The
▼arious monastic remains have been described so fully in their different
routes, that nothing need be added here. The ground-plans of Fountains,
of Jervaulx, and of Sawley, have at different times been carefully ex«r
arained. The original design for Fountains, and perhaps for Kirkstall,
was no doubt brought from Clairvauz ; and some foreign peculiarities
are traceable^ especially in the W. porch and front of the church at
Fountains.
§ XXXn. — ^The Casties of Yorkshire deserve more complete study
and examination than they have hitherto received. They ars-^
Clifford's Tower, York (Rte. 1), Edwardian, with earlier portions ;
Wressel mte. 5), Perp. ; Sheriff Hutton (Rte. 12), Perp. ; Keep of Scar-
borough (Rte. 12), late Norm. ; Pickering (Rte. 14), Edwardian ; Danby
(Rte. 16), Perp. ; Gatehouse of Whorlton (Rte. 15), Perp. ; Gilling (Rte.
18), now chiefly domestic, but with Edwardian portions ; Helmsley (Rte.
18a), E. E. and Edw. II. ; Knaresborough (Rte. 20), E»w. m. ; Snape
(Rte. 22),— now domestic,— late Perp. and Eliz. ; Tanfield (Rte. 22),
Perp. fragment ; Middlebam (Rte. 23), Norm. wiUi Perp. outer walls ;
Bolton (Ute. 24), Rich. II. ; Richmond (Rte. 25), Norm. ; Barnard Castle
(Rte. 26), Edwardian ; Bowes (Rte, 26), late Norm. ; Pontefraot (Rte.
28), Norm, and Edwardian; Harewood (Rte. 29^ Edwardian; Harden
Tower (Rte. 30), late Perp. ; Skipton (Rte. 30), Edwardian and Hen.
YIIL; Goningaboroush (Kte. 40), Norm.; Spofforth (Rte. 43), Tr.-
Norm. ranging to 16th cent. ; Tiokbill (Rte. 47), Perp.
Litiod: Betaurees md Manufadurei. xxxi
Of these the Norman keeps of Scarboroagh, Richmond, and Conings-
bcnngh are of great interest; and nearly all retain portions which deserve
tttention. The Oatehoase of Wborlton is an excellent and most perfect
example, tempu Rich. II. Some of the Yorkshire castlee have been de-
scribed bj Mr. G. T. Clark in the ' Boilder.'
{ "XXXTTT. — ^Torkshire is not so rich in Domestio ArchUectttre as
might be expected from the great size of the county, though it contains
some important examples. The best are —
Burton Agnes (Rte. 9), Jas, I. ; Burton Constable (Rte. 7), various
dates, diiefly Jas. L and Chas. L; Howsham Hall ^te. 12), Eliza-
bethan ; Gampeall Vicarage (Rte. 2), late E. E. or E. Dec ; Slingsby (Rte.
Id), Cbaa. L (in ruins) ; Ripley Castle (Rte. 21), Philip and Mary ;
Tempfe Kewsam (Rte. 28), Chas. I. \ Markenfield mte. 22), Dec, with
15ih and 16th cent, additions ; Bolton-by-BoUand (Rte. 83), Edwardian
in parts; Browahohne (Rte. 34), Hen. Vll.; Bowling Hall Otte. 35),
Eliz. with earlier towers; Woodsome Hall (Rte. 37^ Hen. Vllt, re-
ironted 17th cent.; Ledstone Hall (Rte. 42), Jas. L
Cbfitle Howard (Rte. 12), by Yanbrugh ; Duncombe Park fRte. 18a),
biult from Vanbrugh's designs ; and Harewood (Rte. 29), by Carr of
York, moat also be mentioned here.
Resoobcbs ahd Maitufactubeb.
f XXXrV. — Of the natural prodaetums of Yorkshire, the extent and
importance of which have assisted so lai^ly in raising the county to its
\n9E3it position, the chief are iron and coal. These require a longer
notioe. Others which may here be briefly mentioned are lead^ worked
very extensively in Swaledale (Rte. 25) and in Nidderdale (Rte. 21) ;
vh^e it was certainly worked' by the Romans, and where the lead-mines
faaye probably never since been entirely neglected ; jet, procured in con-
adeiable qxiantities from the cliffs near Whitby (Rte. 14) ; oZum, the
rav material for which is found in the same district; the exoellent
hmlding-ttane from the Tadcaster (Rte. 43) and Huddleatone (Rte. 42)
({narries; and the Ucu^ bxiA aref/ marble, found in such vast quantities
throQjrhont Nidderdale and Dentdale.
The staple manufacturee of Yorkstiire are ivooUen and ivorstecL CI
these a longer account must be given.
i XXXV.— Iron. The ironstones of the coal-measures have been
worked in Yorkshire from a very early period. There is evidence
that the Jlomaos had discovered their value and had smelted them.
The workhig of these beds— the black-band and clay-band ironstones of
the coal-measures, which occur in thin layers associated with coal-seams,
fihalea, clays, and sandstones — ^has never been altogether n^lected, and
until very recently the chief supply of English iron was derived from
them. The most important wois in connection with these ironstones
are in the ndghbourhood of Bradford,— at Low Moor and at Bowling.
(Sec Rte. 36.) , * ^ , . ^^
These inmstanes, which ** partake more or less of the lammatcd or
xzxii BeBOurceB and Memufaduret, Introd*
bedded stmctuft of the strata with which they are associated * (E. SuUy,
are of coarse not so rich as the hamatites of Lancashire, Oamberland,
the Mendip Hills, and elsewhere. But the largest supply is afforded by
the clay ironstones ; and about the year 1860, when many of the prin-
cipal beds in the coal measures were found to be rapidly exhausting,
and some anxiety was felt in consequence (since the demand for iron
was every year increasing), an enormous addition was made to our
resources by the discovery of the "New Iron-fields of England,'*
which occupy a broad belt of country almost firom the shores of the
English Channel to those of the German Ocean. The Cleveland Hills
in the N.E. comer of Yorkshire form the most important portion of this
belt, see Rte. 17 (Middlesbrough).
The ironstone of the Cleveland Hills, like that of the Yorkshire coal-
measures, was not unknown to the Bomans, and had been worked by
them in several places. The monks of Rievaulx and of Whitby had
also worked it ; and it had ahw been quarried and smelted in Bosedalo
in the 12th cent (see Rte. 14) ; but it had been entirely neglected
in modem times, and the vast extent of it was alU^ther unknown,
when Mr. Vanghan, in 1850, made the discovery of the seam of iron-
stone lying under Eston Moor. (See Rte. 17.) From that time the
ironstone has been worked in different parts of the district with in-
creasing profit and importance. Smelting-houses have been erected
in great numbers on either side of the Tees ; the town of Middles-
brough has arisen as the ** metropolis " of the trade.
Ironstones in the same formation are being worked in Lincolnshire, in
Oxfordshire, and elsewhere. The quality of iron 'Ms confessedly infe-
rior to that derived from the coal-measures, still more to that from the
hsBmatites of Ulverstone and Fumess ; but for ordinary purposes and
for mixing with the finer classes it is of great value. It is, moreover,
supplying the enormous demand of the present generation ; and looking
to the future, the Middlesbrough district is likely to have few rivals
in any part of the world."
The processes of iron manufacture have been briefly noticed under
Middlesbrough (Rte. 17) and Low Moor (Rte. 35), and call for no
further description here.
(Dr. Percy's volumes on * The Metallurgy ot lion and other MetaW
contain the best and fullest information on the subject.)
The process of converting iron into sted^ and the steel manufecture,
fully described Rte. 44 — Shtffiddr-^wA not be again noticed here.
§ XXXVI.— CooZ. There were in Yorkshire, in 1857, 347 collieries,
producing annually 8375,440 tons of coaL In 1870 this had increased
to 10,606,604 tons, and now exceeds 12 millions. The Yorkshire coal-
field is, however, only a portion of a great field extending over parts of
the shires of Nottinj^m and Derby, and forming altogether the lareest
coal-field in England. (That of S. Wales is 153 square miles larger in
area.) The whole field produces annually about 20 millions of tons.
The greatest length ot the coal-field from S. to N. is 66 miles, and
its breadth varies from 6 to 20 miles. Though the general dip of thf»
strata is eastward, there generally occurs along the centre of the field
bited. IbB$6mne$ and MamifaeUureB. zxxiii
» pntfo imdnlation wkich for a certain dwtaooe prodooes a westerly
dip;i Iwfc the «Cnia always roll over when approaching the base of tfae
Penonii rocks. The ooal^-ssams are only oocasioDally froken by fimlts.
The Torkshjie aoai-beds abound hi ibsail ferns, lepidodrexida, and
fi^UansB ; and among the deposits of this period are sandstone strata in
which the stems of trees stand erect. Boots of trees also are extended
m their natural positions beneath several of the coal-seams. ** The
ooal-bedB aie certainly composed of terrestrial plants, probably aocumu-
iated roand the trees and above their roots, often by the agency of
vster, which has left part of its living tenants even in the substance
d the coal, aa the defensive fiih-bones of cartilaginous fishes (Qyracan-
thnfl)^ and estuary shells (UnioDidaB).'*— PM72t>>f. 17 species of fish
i^kcfoad. and ganoid), 6 cephalopods, 17 conchiieis and brachiopods, and
1 of the Crustacea — Cjfthere (cypiis) — ^have been reckoned in tne York-
fihiie ooalnneasures. Fish-remains occur plentifully in the roofing
ahile of come of the coal-beds; so plentifully at Middleton, that the
auDerscall it ''fish-coal." There are very good collections of fossils
torn the coal-measures in the museums at York, at Leeds, at Scar-
Iwoagh, «nd at Whitby.
The Yorkshire coal-field contains many courses of ironstone, which
are worked in different places, — ^moet extensively in the neighbourhood
of Bradford, at Low Moor, and Bowling.
PfiimAtrng the area of the entire coal-field (not including the nortion
mider the magnesian limestone) at 760 square miles, Mr. Hull oon-
dndes that at the present rate of oonsumption the coal it contains will
last alwot 700 years.
f XXXVII. — Ab Lancashire is ihe gireat sesi of the cotton mani»-
factore, Yorkshire is the centre of the wodUn trade. Some cotton-
mills (especially in the Todmorden valley), And more silk and fiax
fiietories am to be found in parts of the W. Riding (flax and linen
lactones are very numerous at Leeds and at Bamsley) ; but wool in its
Tariona fiarms is still the main source of the wealth of manu&cturiBg
Ycrkahire. The woollen trade has two grand divisions: c2o^ or woollen
properly so called, and looratod Leeds is the capital of the cloth maun-
uctnre, which is carried on for the most part in that town and in the
lamnmdlng district. Bradford is the great worsted mart of the county,
doth ix woollens are made from short wool, worsted from long wooL
It hae been thought that the wool of the sheep in its natural and pri-
mitive atate was more pnmerly long than short, and therefore that the
most ancient woollen labnos had mther the character of worsted than
of doth. However this may be, it is certain that the fabrication of
wool into clothing is one qS the most ancient of human arts ; and not
leaa certain that in Yorksoire cloth mauufiBcture lon^ preceded the
nuiikiiK of worsted fabrics, which was not introduced mto the county
untiT&e middle of the 17th cent. The name '* worsted** is probably
derived finm tiie town of Worsted, in Norfolk, whi<di certainly ex-
isted before the Conquest^ and in whioh» at an early period, Flemish
weavora settled and introduced the manufacture. (Comp. similar de.
rivatlona from Qamhria (cambric), Arras, Calicut (calioo), and others.)
judj Besouree^ and Mam^aekares. latrod.
A ^History of ihe Wonted and Woollen Manufactnm,' in 2 vols., hy
Mr. James Biwhoff, was published in 1842 ; and in 1857, Mr. James
published an excellent and exhaustive * History of the Wonted Manu-
iusture.' These are the chief authorities on the subject
f XXXVnL — ^Wool was exported firom this island during the later
Boman period; and woollen fabrics were no doubt manufactured here
long before coionies of Flemings, driven from their own country by
a destructive inundation, were settled by the Conqueror and afterwards
by Hen. I. in parts of England and of S. Wales (Pembrokeshire). But
these Flemings were the first great ** clothien in England, and their
trade was largely increased by Edw. III., who induced fresh bodies of
Flemish weaven to settle in tins country. '' Happy," says Fuller, who
breaks off his * Church History ' to commemorate the arrival of these
strangers, *' the yeoman's house into which one of these Dutchmen did
enter, bringing industry and wealth along with them. Such who came
in strangers, within doors, soon after went out bridegrooms and returned
sons-in-law, having married the daughtera of their landlords who first
entertained them ; yea, those yeomen in whose houses they harboured
soon proceeded gentlemen, gaining them estates to themselves, arms
and worahip to their estates." Under the teaching of these profitable
strangers, the cloth trade spread extensively throughout the southern
and western counties of England. Bristol and its neighbourhood was
one very important centre ; Norwich and the eastern counties was an-
other ; and there was a third in Devonshire, of which Exeter and Credi-
ton were the chief towns. A good specimen of the wealthy English
clothier was ** Jack of Newberry,"— John Winchcomb of Newberry, in
Berkshire — ^who kept 100 looms in his house, and marched 100 of his
own men to Flodden Field, armed and clothed at his own expense.
Long before this the woollen manufacture had extended into Yorkshire ;
and in the reign of Hen. VH. had become of some importance in that
county, especially at Wakefield, Leeds, and Halifax. But as yet it was
only the coarser kind of cloth that was made in the north ; and the
manufacture of the various kinds of worsted fabrics, the great centre of
which had from the beginning been Norwich and tiiie eastern counties,
was not introduced into Yorkshire until the end of the 17th cent.
From that time, however, both woollen and worsted manufactures
increased steadily in the W. Riding, and (chiefly from the end of the
last cent.) have been developed there to such an extent as to leave all
other parts of England far behind. The worsted trade of Norwich is
still important; and there are still considerable factories of cloth in
Gloucestershire and elsewhere, but there is no competition with York-
shire. " The S.W. portion of Yorkshire," says Mr. James, ** possesses,
beyond all rivalry, more natural advantages as a manufacturing district
than any other in the kingdom, having in abundance, and of the best
quality, those three grand requisites— water, coal, and ironstone. Inter-
sected by small valleys, it abounds in rilll^ bnK>ks, and rivers, excel-
lently adapted either for the working of mills by water-power, or for
the use of the 'great iron servant of nations,*— the steam-engine. . . .
Add to these essentials that the riven could easily be made navigable,
Inftrod. BewtareeB and Manufadttrea. xtty
and caoate fomMd for the transit of goods ; that the district is central,
•sd, what is of paramount importanoe, that the people are indostrions
and perseFeringy of indomitable energy of character^ delighting in bnsi-
ness^ neither shunning labour nor fearing difficulties in &e prosecution
of ^eir enterpriaeSy and one may comprehend how the manufacture
1ms obtained in «uch a spot» among such a people, a mighty growth,
and beoome one of the wonders of this progressive age." — Bistory €f
the Wanted Manufiukire.
i XXXIX. — ^It was about the middle of the last cent that skill and
Kienoe b^an to develop the great resources of south-western Torkshire^
and th&t that long series of inrentions commenced which has been ear-
ned to each admirable perfection, and has entirely changed the charac-
ter of the trade. Dyer's poem of • The Fleece * was published in 1757,
sad in it he describes the first factory (as it would seem) in which the
dxfierent processes of the woollen manufacture were brought into one
boildii^ This fiictory, in the Vale of Galder, had been built for a
parish workhouse.
" Behold in Calder's vale, where wide around
Unnumber'd villas creep the shrubby hills,,
A spadouA dome for tlus fair purpose rise.
Hi^ o'er the open gates with gracioos air
EKaa'a im^ stands. By genUe steps
Upraised, frDin room to room we slowly walk.
And view with wonder and with silent joy
The sprightly scene ; where many of busy hand, '
Where spoles, cards, wheels, and looros^ with motion quick
And ever-murmuring sound, the unwonted senise
Wrap in surprise.'* .••••.
The whole district was at this time aUve with the cloth manufacture.
Dyer pioeeed*—
'* Take we now an eastward course
To the rich fields of BirstaL Wide around
Hillodt and Talley, farm and Tillage smile;
And niddy roofs and chimney-tops appear
Of busy Leeds, upwafting to the clouds
Theinoenseofthanksgiring; all is joy.
And trade and business gukle the liring scene.
Roll the foil cars adown the winding Aire^
Load the slow-sailing barges, pile the pack
On the long tinkling train of the slow-paced steeds.**
Factories^ however, did not become general until the end oi the cent ;
and it wbb some time before the first spinning-machines, used origin-
ally for spinning cotton, wers applied to spinning wooL Before uiey
were broc^ht into nse the wool was spnn in different parts of the
eoimiry, especially in Craven and in the dales between Skipton and
^hmloiid. *' The W. Biding (worsted) manufacturer had not only to
visit the villages in the immolate neignbourhood of Halifax, Bradford,
fto, but naed pcgnodically to traverse the romantic hills and dales of
Cwfoi. Here at each village he had his assents, who received the wool.
xxxfi BewitreeB and MaMtfactwreM. Introd*
diatribatod it among the peMMitry, axul received it bade as yacm. The
machtiM employed was still the old one-thread wbed; and in sommetr
weather, on many a village green or hill-aide, might he seen the hoose-
wires plying their hnsy trade and ftirnishing to the poet the vision of
^ Contentment spinning at his oottage-door." Returning in safety with
his yam, the manufiActnrer had now to seek out his weav^iBy who nlti-
mately delivered to him his camblets, or mssels, or serges, or tammies,
or calimanooes (such were then the names of the leading fabrics), ready
for sale to the merchant or delivery to the dyer."— ^atnei^ Eititny if the
Worsted Manufacture,
The development of the factory system has, it need hardly be said,
entirely changed all this. Beaources of all kinds — in the material em-
ployed as well as in the most complicated and admirable nMicbinery —
have, since the beginning of the present cent., been brought to bear on
the worsted and wooUen trades ; and there are probably no establish-
m«it8 in the world where the means are more nicely proportioned to
the ends, where the arrangements are more perfect, or where the whole
process of manafacture may be more advantageously studied, than the
great factories of Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, or the wonderful manu-
facturing ^palace" of Saltaire. Some description of these, and especi-
ally of Saltaire, will be found in the routes to which they belong. A
short general notice of the various processes used in the mannfiictare of
woollens and worsteds may however be usefuL
S XL. — ^In the manufacture of doths or wooOms the processes are
(those marked with an asterisk are performed by machinery) —
1. Sorting; 2. Scouring of washing ; 3. Dyeing (when wool-dyed) ;
4. ♦Willying or twilling ; 5. Picking or moating , 6. Oiling; 7. Scrib-
bling ; 8. ♦Carding ; 9. ♦Slubbih* ; 10. ♦Spinning ; 11. ♦Reeling ;
12. Warping; 13. ♦Sieing; 14. ♦Weaving; 16. Scouring; 16. Dye-
ing (when piece-dyed) ; 17, Burling ; 18. ♦Fulling or felting; 19.
Soouring; 20. Tenter-drying; 21. ♦Raising or teazling; 22. Shear-
ing; 23. ♦Brushing; 24. Picking-drawing; ^25. Pressine ; 26. Pack-
ing. (The extracts tre from Bischofifs 'History of Wool and
Woollens,' where they lue quoted from an article in the latest edition of
the Encyc. Britann.)
After the wool has been sorted and scoured, first in ley and after-
wards in nmning water, so as to deanse it from grease and all impurity,
it is dyed— if mtended for the making of wool-dyed cloth. (All cloth,
except white, is either wool or piece-dyed.) It is then placed in the
wiUyiThg machine (the name is said to be a corruption of " winnow "
or "winnowing," since this is the oflBce it performs). This is ''a
revolving cone, armed with 4 rows of inm spikes, strongly fixed in
4 longitudinal bars fiutened to 3 concentric wheels of different diame-
ters. This cone revolves at the rate of from 800 to GOO revohi-
tions per minute, within a casing cylinder, armed with sevend sjNkes,
but placed so as to alternate with the spikes on the cone. The
machine is fed by means of an endless apron, the wool entering at the
smaller end, so that when most entangled it is subjected to uie Inst
nK^ion •• ... By the revolutions of the cylinder ths wool is torn.
Itttrod. Metmwem and MaamfadwreB, xzxvli
(famtiHi^adi mnd dcaned, and by the gradaally inoreaiing emtriiiigal
fnoft it is impelled forwards toward the large ei^ of the oone.
Wben the wool thus reaches the hese of the cone it is tossed into a
dwmfaer, wheie it is received upon another endless apron, moving in
adweetumyivm the machine instead of towards it. Over this apron is a
f^lmdrioal wive cage, . • . . and immediately over it is a revolving fan»
Both thsee are covered and pioteeted by sheet^iron casings, but commu*
locate with the ohamber which receives the wool from the cone.
lie fsDy dsawing the dust out of the ohamber, blows it through a ohim*
Bsy or pipe oonnepted with the machine for the purpose. The cage pre*
veote the escape of the wool with the dust, and by ita passage over the
SfRA it lays down the wool in a continuous fleece.
The w«)ol is then picked or ^ moated,^ in order to remove any dirt
viaoh may not have been separated by the willy, and is afterwards.
dZed, 8 or 4 lbs. of oil bemg well mingled with 20 lbs. of wooL It ia
d« xeady for $aribbiin§ end octrdingy — ^processes which resemble each
odkiTy the only difference being that the scribbling machine is coarser.
The ebfeot of both is farther to separate and open out the fibre of
the woM. ** The wooKcarding engine oonsists of one large cylinder or
cudninim, rarmounted by S pairs of smaller cylinders called urchins,
til ef them covered with card-oloths armed with oaiding^wires.
At one end is an endless feeding apron, upon which equal portions, by
vsghty of the oiled wool are evenly spread by hand."* The wool is
dis&imted upon the eard-drum, from which it is stripped by the
ndier cylinders^ and is at last removed by a larger cylinder called a
''doffinr," from which the whole is scmped off by a "doffing** knife,
in the mnbUmff process the wool is wound round a revolving roller in
sn endlees fleece, having the appearance of a fine blanket The carv^m^
come delivers it in narrow bands or sliveis.
The wool is now ready to be spun into yam by machines^ The first
of them is the $lvbHng machine or ** dubbing hwy^ in which about 60
ifsndles are arno^ed on a moveable carriaoe. By this machine the
esrded wool is joined, elongated, and slightly twisted. The dubbing
tbos psodoced has the appearance of a soft and weak thtead» and is
ready for the apwiingienny or the ** muJe,*' which is fist superseding
ik The yam is finally prepared hs Weamg by the operations o£
redmg, vnrping, and aizing.
The toeaving itself is performed either by the hand-joom or by the
power-loom^ &b latter being chiefly used for weaving the finest and
brosdest cloths,— such as are 12 quarters wide in the loom.
" Ajfter the cloth comes from the loom, and before it can undergo any
other piooeas, it is neoeasary to mimr it, in order to get rid of we oil
sad siia to which the wool and yam have been subjected in the prepa*
ntary pfooess. .Tins ia performed at the mill in a somewhat rode
maoUDe oaQedthe stocks, consisting of a pair of wooden mallets, worked
alternately by a oog-wheei The cloth is exposed to the stroke of the
BH^omn inclined trough, the end of which is curved, so that the
tndem^ of the stroke is to tnm the doth round and round, and dif«
iemt portjoM air alternately exposed to the operation of the hammess.
zzxviii Besourees and Manufacturei^ Introd*
At first soap or some other detergent is used, but at last a stream of
Sura water is let in upon it" The doth is then dried and dyed (if
yed in the piece), and is afterwards handed over to the hurlers^ who
pick out all irregular threads, hairs, or dirt which may remain in the
fabria In order to effect this thoroughly, the cloth is examined both
on the sur&oe and through tl^ web against a strong light. It is then
ready for fuUing or fdting^ a process in which, " by the united opera-
tions of beating, heat, and moisture, the minutely-jagged surfaces g^ the
fibres of the wool are made intimately to cohere, and form not a mera
woven tissue, like cotton, flax, or silk* but a felted homc^neous masa.
If a piece of cloth be cut it will not unravel ; the tissue is almost lost
under the thick fulled surface raised upon it, and the weaving seems
less to give a character to the fabric than to impart the requisite degree
of strength.** The cloth is afterwards scoured with fuller's esrth, zinaed
in pure water, and hung upon imUr$ till it is completely dry.
Then follows the operation of ieading^ ** by which the loose fibres of
the wool are raised to the surface, so as to form, when duly cut and
sheared, tiie pile or nap.** The teazles are fastened into a cylinder. A
piece of cloth of 40 yards consumes dOOO. Teazles are grown in York-
shire (chiefly in the neighbourhood of Leeds) and in Somersetshire, and
are sold in packs of about 20,000 at (in avei-age years) 6/. a pack* Wire
has been tried instead of teazles, but has not been found to answer.
The superiority of the plant arises from its tendency to break off when
it meets with a knot or inequality, which wire would tear out
The pile raised by teazling is afterwards cropped or Aeared. This is
done by ingenious machinery, which has replaced the old hand-work.
It is then Srwhed by cylinders fixed in a machine, is picked over to
Temove all defects, and is finally packed in bales for the market
§ XLL — ^The processes of the toartted manufacture so nearly resemble
those of cloth-making that they need not be described here at any.
length. There is, however, one important addition. It has before been
said that a long-stapled wool is used for making wonted stuffs, while
short wool is manufactured into cloth. This long wool, after it has
been washed, is eomhedf a process which was formerly performed by
hand labour. It is now almost entirely done by machinery, and some
very ingenious machines have bean invented for the purpose.
Trayellsb's View and Scxnbbt.
f XLU.— The special objects of interest for the traveller in Yorkshire
ore the manuflBCtures, the geology, the antiquities (including the
various historical sites), and the scenery of the county. The maaoflM)-
tuies are confined for the most part to the West Riddng; and whoever
may visit Yorkshire with the intention of studying them must provide
Umself with introductions to the heads of the principal firms. Other-
wise he will not readily, if at all, obtain admission to the fiustories.
Tours (see poet, 'Skeleton Touib') which will toke the traveller
Liiro& DraveBar^B View and Scenery. xxxix
IhnMu^h the most beantifdl and intereBtang floenery in Yorkflhire, will
mtrodaoe Imn at the sMne ima to the meet important fields of geolopcal
tbady, and to some of the meet remarkable antiquities. The wanderer
in search of the picturesque must not be sent either to the flat of
Holdemeas or to the bare chalk hills of the Wolds ; although neither
district is without beauty for the true lover of nature ; and the views
from the border hills of the Wolds, across the great plain of York, are
Tcry'fine. Bat the geologist will not neglect Holdemess rRtes. 6 &J), with
ils lacustrine deposits, — its accumulations of drift ana gravel, reUcs of
the glaciers and ioe agencies that deposited here rock nagments from
Norway and ttam the Cumbrian Alps, — and its rapidly crumbling sea*
etifis. Some very fine churches (especially Patrington and Hedon —
fite. 6) are also to be found here ; and the antiquities scattered over the
wbote district (nowhere very picturesque) which lies east of the Great
Xor&ern Railway IVom Doncaster to Milford Junction (Rtes. 1, 2, 3),
dKDoe on either side of the line by Selby to Hull (Rte. 6), and thence
fiuooghout Holdemess (Rtes. 6, 7), will amply repay ezamina-
tbo. On ite Wolds the antiquary will find few churches worth
attention ; bat the primasval remains, the Rudstone pillar, the numerous
Khi impcM^ant dykes and earthworks, and the houes and tumuli that
dot the hills in all directions (Rtes. 10, 11, 14), are among the most
sfriking in Yorkshiie.
f XLin. — ^The great extent of Yorkshire, and the various geological
iDfrnatkina that appear on the sur&ce of ^e county, afibrd a greater
variety of natural scenery than is to be found elsewhere in England;
and the only county which can at all rival it in this respect is Devon-
dmn^ Hudb very pleasant country is to be found in the comparativel v
level districts of the Vale of York ; the ancient Bamsdale (Rte. 2),
•tietdiing between Doncaster and Pontefract ; and the rich circuit of
the old lorest of Elmete (Rte. 42); but the chief scenery of Yorkshire
is comprised in four divisiona-^^) The sea-coast; (2) The hills and
moors of Cleveland and the N.E.; (3) The western mountains, ex*
tending firam Barnard Gssde to Skipton in Craven, and thence round to
Oitheroe in Lancashire; and (4) The remains of the old forest of
Sherwood in the neighbourhood of Shefiield, of which Whamcliffe
Chase is the finest and most remarkable portion. Each of these districts
has its subdivisions and its speoial points of interest : and the tourist
with time at his command will find that some weeks may well be given
to the thorough examination and enjoyment of each. For those whose
days of travel are more limited, the most striking scenes in the county,
and the best manner of visiting them within a short time, are described
m ibe * Skeleton Tours' (jp08t%
§ XLIV. — ^The sea-coad of Yorkshire is the finest and most pio*
tuiesque in England, with the exception of that of Devon and Cornwall.
"Hiese western shores — especially m N. Devon the bold heights and
the wooded glens opening to the sea, and in Cornwall the towering
cUfis and precipices of granite and serpentine — ^far exceed even the finest
portioDb of the Y<»rkAhize coast Bat «i the otber iiand^ tbe seanur of
the north>is more braoing ; and evea Toiqaay oaoDot boast the many
KSDuroee and amuaenients which Soarborough offeis to the ocdmarjr
irisitor.
The Torkshiie watering-places, teckoning theia aeeordmg to their
size and importance, are — Scarborough, Whitby, Bridlington^ Filey^
Redcar, Saltburn, Homaea, and Withenisea. Scarborough and Whitby
have the finest diff scenery in their immediate neighboorhaods,.and the
inland country aooeasible from them is very pleasant and piataiesque.
Whitby especially has within easy readb, for drives^ er for days* excur^
sions by railway or ca foot, the fine wild soenery of the Cleveland
Moors (Rtea. 14, 15). Tbe gieat sias of Soarborough makes it more
of a *' London by the sea " than most other watering-plaoes ; thoogh in
this respect it is as yet far fipom equalling Brighton ; and it is infimtely
superior to Brighton in the beauty and interest of the surooanding
country, and in the ease and veadiness with which the tiae coontiy is
reached from the outskirts of the town. It m well provided with good
hotels, at which the charges generally are very moderate, especially to>
visitors who avail themselves of the prevailing Scarborough oustom of
residing en pennon al a fixed weekly tariff tot board, lodging and
attendance. Whitl^ is far quieter ana more staid ; a very great r^
commendation to many visitors. It has long been a fovourite resorl of
the clergy.
Bridlington has no good coast seenery oloss at band; but the sands
ate &m and level ; and the gnuid chalk olifis of Flamborongh head aie
within an easy day's walk or excursion. The Priory Church is an
attraction for the antiquary; and there aie a £ew places of interest
accessible inland. Filey is quieter and more aristocratic; its broad,
open bay is very beautiM ; and you may ride or drive for at least five
miles along the hard, firm sandsu The sands, which extend fiK}m Hmit*
cliff rooks to the mouth of the Tees, are the laain, if not the only attrao*
tion at Redcar; although there are some paints of intevast inland*
Saltbum is (at present) a small, but a very pleasant, watering-pboe.
Very fine cUff scenery stretches away from it B. ; and the wooded
ravines, whi^ here descend to the sea, are picturesque. The coast at
Hornsea is fiat, and the plaoe is otherwise not very attractive. It is,
however, quiet, and conveniently situated as a watering-place for the
S.E. of Yorkshire. The same may be said of Withemsea, which has
sliU fewer recommendations.
in all these plaooi the hotel aooommodatioa is good and oomiortable ;
and lodfrings are readily found.
$ XLY.~The most strfting and jncturesque pomts on the Yorkshire
coast are (beginning from the B.y^Flambarough Head (Rte, 13), the
extreme eastern point of the. chalk in Epgland, with the fine sea-oaves
in its neighbourhood. This is easily reached either from Bridlington or
from Filey, FUey Brig, and the grand sweep of its bay ; probably the
•* well-bfcvened bay ** or the * bey of the Gabrantovici " (ra/9pavrovtjc<Dir
i KOI \tyofi€vos UvKinevos Kokiros) of Ptolemy.— (The word " Gabranto-
vici'' has puzxled oommentaton. No such tribe is known, or at least
Zntro^ ZVoMlier^* Vim and Semery. xli
k oDvrfacn e]» mentioned ; and it has l)een soggeeted that it may be
an eiror ibr ** BrigantovJci.'*)-^Ftom the hill thare Biley Brig^ the view
is Tefy fine, hodi towards Bcarborough and towards Flamboroii^ Head«
Secaiorough CcuiU, StairUandale Cliff, a range extending from Hailmm
Wyke to th* "Old Peak,* a distance of nearly 4i m. The sea-views
are magmfioent> and there is a singular underoUff, interesting to
geologists. The High Peak, 685 ft. ahove the sea, and forming the 8.
extremity ci Bobin Hood's Bay. IMdn Bbod's Bay itself, very striking
Slid wdl worth the artist's attention, with wild, high gronnd behind it ;
sad next, WhUby, with its mined abbey. This eoast between 8car-
boroogli Mid Whitbr is aooessible from either place, and the pedestrian
wiB So well to explore it at leisore, testing perhaps at Bobin Hood's
Bay, where the Tillage inn will be found passable. Beyond Whitby the
oIi& beeome grander and more pictaresqne : the chief points ate — KetHe-
nm, 875 ft; BunBwich Bay, with its caverns, nearly destroyed,
boirever, by jet-workers; Siaiihe§y a very curious and old-fashioned
fishing TUla^ well desernng a visit, since it remains unchanged,
wfailBt Whitby, Filey, and other ancient settlements along the coast
haw adopted modem improvements, and have greatly lost their
origiiiai diaracter ; BeuSw Vlif (660 ft.), tiM loftiest precipice on the
Ex^jUflhooost; Huntdiff Nah (seo ft.) ; and fi(i2^t<m, with the wooded
^eoa passing inland behind it» These long, narrow vallevs, through
which streams find their way to the sea from the high moors or Cleveland,
are very characteristic of this part of the coast. Whitby or Saltbum
wee the points from which this northern coast is to be examined. Only
the pedestrian, however, will be able to enjoy it thoroughly.
§ XLVl. (2.y^Cleveland and the Kwih^Eoitem Moan, This,
which is entirely a mountainous district, full of the most picturesque
scenery, is contained within boundary-lines which extend from Picker-
ing nearly to the 8ea> north of Scarboroug}i, thence to Whitby, thence
aloDg the base of the hills from Whitby to Guislx^ough (the counti^
betiroen the hills and the eaa is also part of Cleveland; but this,thou^
occasionally not unpictuiesque, is very distinct) ; from Guisboroagh by
Stokesley, round the western bases of the Cleveland and Hambleton
Hflia, to the neighbourhood of Thirsk ; and thence by Cox wold and
Byland, round again to the neighbourhood of Pickering.
The character of this great moorland district is, owing to its different
geotogy, very distinct from that of the western mountains. It is
covered in parts by thick and deep heather, which is almost entirely
wanting on the limestone of the west. The ridges of high, rou^ moor
are divided bv long, narrow, winding dales, each of which has its own
streamlet, and is marked by a line of bright green pasture, and some
wood. Broken crags of sritstone rise here and there from the dale
sides; and the contrast of their greensward and sprinkled farms, with
&e baxi«n upper moors, is very striking and pleasant The most im-
portant of these dales are (beginning from the west) Bilsdale, Brans-
dale, Famdale, Bosedale, and the series of dales (Newtondale and
othcf8> through which the railway is carried from Pickering to Whitby.
zlii TraveOeif^^ View and Seenerg. Introd.
The boandaorv of develand proper (the ** diff * or ** deft ** land — ^it is
the "Elifldnd*' of the Northmen) rans acroas the laoon, eastward,
nearly in a line with Osmotherley ; and the highest point of the entire
district (Burton Howe, 1419 ft.) is in this division^ a little S.E. of
Ingleby Greenhow. The Hambleton hills continue the moorland 8.
of the Clevelands; but there is scarody any true division between
the ranges. The Hambletons represent, however, the range of upper
oolitio or calcareous hills which rest on the lower oolitic of Gleveiand
(see Rte« 14, Pickering); and frc»n their calcareous nature they have
leas heather than the others. The western ridges of both Clevelands
and Hambletons command magnificent views over the great j^n of
York, with the hills of its western border in the distance. These va^t
prospects, extending over an enormous extent of the richest and most
cultivated country, and seen, as they often may be, with a foreground
of wild mountain, or of broken and most picturesque woodland, are
almoet peculiar to Yorkshire. There are views from the ridges of the
Sussex Downs, and from the oppofdte hills of Surrey, which somewhat
recall them ; but they axe not so extensive, and the mountainous fore*
noond is &r less grand. Some of the Dartmoor hills (especially
Gawsand) command stretches of country equally vast, and the views
from these more nearly resemble those in Yorkshire ; which, it should
be added, are of the same general character as seen ftom the hills E. or
W. of the plain of York.
I XLYIL — The great Cleveland district may, for tourist's i>urpo6e8,
be subdivided as follows:— (a.) The dales between Pickering and
Whitby, with the adjoining moors on either side. (6.) The ncnrthem
portion of the Cleveland hUls, or Cleveland proper, (c.) llie western
slopes of the Clevehmds and the Hambletons, from Stokesley to Thirsk.
(cL) Ryedale and the southern slo^ of the Hambletons ; the oountiy
accessible from the line of the llunk and Malton railway, (e.) The
mass of central moors, with their dales. The tourist who cares for
thoroughly wild scenery, much of which has been but little explored,
cannot do better than devote a month or six weeks to this portion of
Yorkshire.
(a.) The dales between Pickering and Whitbv ^te. 14) may be
explored from the stations on the railway; and either Pickering or
'Whitby may serve as head-quarters. The most interesting points are
folly noticed in Bte. 12. The Cawthom Camps and Lastingham
(Rte. 18a) may best tw visited Irom i^icKering or Belmsley. The
moors W. of the Kailwavare finer and more picturesque than those E. ;
although the latter should not be neglected. The woods and moors of
Egton, Ibumdale, and the moors in its neighbourhood, are easily reached
from Whitby.
(b.) For exploring the northern portion of the Cleveland hills, the
best stations are Whitby (Rte. 14) ; Castleton (Rte. 15) ; Guisborough
(Rte. 15); and Stokesley (Rte. 15). The walk from Whitby by
Glaiaedafe End to Castleton (Rte. 14, Exa h 2) is especially to l!e
recommended. The chief points of interest in this division are — ^the
Introd* TraveOer'M View and Scenery. zliii
moofB above Oastleton and Westerdale, from wbich very fine views are
cammanded; Danby Beacon, with the Britiah yillaas near it; Danby
Castle, Boseberry Topping, and Burton Howe above Ingleby Gieenhow.
All these places are described in Bte. 15, which embnuns this northern
border of the hills.
(<^) The western slopes of the Geveland and Hambleton hills are
▼ety pietoresqne, with a kind of wooded ''undercliff"— « mass of
tumbled hills and valleys— extending alonff their bases, and giving
Kope far the most deliditfol wanderinm. The best centres for explora*
lion are StokesLey; Whorlton (the JBlack Horse Inn); Osmotherley
(Qneen Gatherine inn); Korthallerton and Thirsk. The most notice-
able points of interest are Whorlton Church and CSastle (Rte. 15^;
Moont Grace Priory (Rte« 16), with the grand view from the hills
above it ; and Whitestone Cliff, and Gormire, near Thirsk (Rte. 16).
Cd!.) Byedale, which the railway traverses from Thirsk to Malton, is
fall oi interest; and there is scaroely a place noticed in Rte. 18 which
win XK3i repay a visit. The best centres are Cozwold, Helmsley, and
Hoyingbam. From Coxwold, the tourist may visit ByUnd Abbey and
the hwa above it ; at the Gilling station he will be within reach cf
GiUing Castle and Ampleforth ; and may proceed thence to Hehndey,
where Doncombe Park and Rievanlx Abbev are dose at hand. This
country is also to be reached from Hovin^bam, where is a ''spa" of
saline water.
(e.) The central moois and the dales which peroe them cannot be
visited without some abendonmeDt of the ''comforts o' the Saut
MadosL** Kirkby Moonide, Helmsley, and the country inns in Rose-
dale and Bilsdale, will be the tourist's best centres; but he should
remember that the remoter inns, such as those in Bosedale and Bilsdale,
are apt to be engaged befixehand, and to be well filled, in the shooting
season. Bilsdate is most easily accessible from Helmsley (Rte. 18a);
Bnoisdale and Famdale (both ooticed in Rte. 18a) from kirkby Moor-
side^ or (if entered from the N.) from Castletcm or Ingleby Greenhow.
Rosedale (Rte. 14) may be reached either from Kirkby Moorside, or
icrosB the moon from Pickering or Whitby. The finest views in these
moors are from the hig^ ground about Blakcy Gross, between* the
Rosedale ironworks and Ingleby; but idl the dales afibrd delightful
tingering ground, where the tourist may wander day after day with
great enjoyment The scenery is not so grand as that of the western
mountains ; but it has a charm of its own, which will be felt at once by
all true lovers of tiie moorhmd and the heather.
{ XLVIIL (3.)— 5f%e Western Mountains. This division embraces
the whole western portion of the county, and contains some very fine
moontain masses, oales which are only inferior (if at all) to those of
CmDberland and Westmoreland, and some of the grandest rock scenery
in Ellwand. It has already been said (§ IV.) that the comparatively
low region of Ribblesdale divides this group of hills into two oortions,
— 4he north-western and the south-western. It may be further sub-
divided as Mows, including the picturesoue districts which form the
ooHkirts of the higher land:— (a.) Upper Teeedale, the extreme north-
xlly Tf-ooeZZtfr'f View and Scenery. JiAhA.
western eorner of Yorkshire, with Bokebf and the ndghbouliood of
Barnud Castle ; (ft.) Richmond and its neighbourhood— -Swakdale and
Arkengarthdale ; (c.) Leybum and its neighbourhood — ^Mashtm and
Hackfdl, Wenaleydale and Gandale to Sedbergh; (d.) Upmr Wharib-
dale, and the hills forming Langstrothdale Chase ; (e.) X^idderdale ;
(O Skipton and its nei^bourhood — N.E. Craven, Lower Wharfedale,
and Bolton Priory ; (jr.) llkley and its nei^bourhood ; (^) Settle and
its neighbourhood— Hibblesdale, Upper Airedale; (h,) Ingleton and
its neighbouihood^Clajduun Care ; Q,) S.W. Craven, Lower Ribblea-
dale, Forest of Rowland.
The tourist who proposes to explore all this side of Yorkshire will
find that his best .'centres arfr^for the N., Barnard Castle, Riohmond,
Leybum, and Hawes in Wensleydale; Fateley Bridge, for Nidderdale;
and for the S., Bkipton, Settle, Clapham (there is no tolerable inn at
Ingleton), and perl^ps Gisbume. (Other inns in each sabdivkioii are
mentioned poti,) The principal scenes may be visited in a toor extend-
ing over ten days or a f<«tnight (or even less) ; bat a month or six
weeks will not be too much for any one who desires thoiou^v to
enjoy the coontry ; and indeed, a whole summer may be spent here
with advantage. The pedestrian, as usual in mountainoas districts,
will see most, and will find, on the whole, fewer di£5aulties to encounter
than those who> depend on horMS or carriages ; but all who leave l^e
main track must be pepared for some roughing. A skeleton toor
(No. IV.X embracing the whole district, points out the chief scenes and
places of interest, which all should visit
The general ofaaiaoter of the district has been sujfficiently indicated in
the various routes which describe it The limestone hills show little
heather ; and are covered for the most part with a floe, short torf;
excellent for walking. Soars of rook constantly enring the hills, and
are specially chaiacteristio. Other great features of these mountains
are the caves and " nots** by which the limestone is piened ; the water-
falls, here, as in Norway, called ^'forees" or ''fosses,'' one of many
proofs that Norwegian settlers penetrated into Yorkshire ih>m West-
moreland; and the great rock dislocations produced by the "Crav«a
Fault" (I XI.), and forming the magnificent scenery of Gordale,
Kalham, Attermyre, and Gi^eewick. Of the eavw, the two most
remarkable are the stalactite cavern at Clapham, and Weatheroote
Cave, near ingleton (for both see Rte. 32a) ; the most striking toofer-
fptUM are High Force, in Upper Teesdale (Rte« 27), one of the finest
and most picturesque in.Ensland, and Hardraw Force (Rte. 24), near
Hawes in Wensleydale. Bnt every stream has its '^ forces" — all
beautiful, and all full of attraction for the artist, who will often find
his best subjects in the falls and streamlets that are least known. The
mountaifu which most deserve to be scaled are Ingleboroush (Rte. 82a),
and Micklefell (Rte. 27), the highest in Yorkshire ; the finest and
most characteristic of the daU$ Is Wensleydale (Rte. 24).
I XUX. — ^The various subdivisions of this great district are
described at length in theii* saveral routes ; but each one may here be
briefly noticed.
Inlffod. Tr^ndier^s View and Scenery. xlv
(«.} At Barnard Ccude the touriist is within reaoh of the beautifnl
gcumay oa the Greta and the npper couise of the Tees. (See Rtes. 26,
27.) He loay take up his quarters at Middletou in Teesdale or at
the ffigjb Fcroe Inn, in order to explore Upper Teesdale. The points
to be visited are Rokeby and the Greta, Eggleston Abbey, Wycliffe,
Bowea, the High Force, tibe water&ll of Caldron Snout, and Miokle-
felk This range of oountiy is very varied in its soenery and is full
of interest.
(%.) The Richmond district is folly described in Bte. 25. Richmond
itMlf 18 one of the most picturesquely placed towns in England.
Swaledale is not so striking as Wensleyoale ; but both it and Arken-
guthdale deserve exploration. There is a tolerable inn at Reeth in
Swaiedale; and- others (very small and humble) at Muker and at
Thwaite.
<cl) The whole of Rte. 24 (Leyhum and its neighbourhood) may
■iely be neommended for adoption by the tourist who desires to
enjoy RHoe fine mountain soenery, and to make himself acquainted
with the most characteristic of Yorkshire dales. From Leybom, Mid-
dlduun (ehoneh and castle), Jenraulx Abbey, and Bolton Castle, may
he Tiaited. (Hackfall (Rte. 22), a most picturesque scene of wood and
water, may also be visited from Ley burn ; but, perhaps^, more readily
aooeaeiUe from Ripon.) At Aysgarth and at Askrigg, which stand
in the centre of Wensleydale, are comfortable inns, in Wensleydale
itself the scenes and places to be noticed are fully described in
Bte. 24.
(d.) For tipper Wharf edaU and Langstro&idaU, the tourist will find his
hestoentresat Kilnsey, at Kettlewell, and at Buckden (Rte. 31); but here
he most expect to rough it. The inns are generally clean, and tolerably
comfortaUe, but they are thoroughly rustic hostebnes ; and no one should
ventme into this district who cannot find his full reward in the wild
soenery which will surround him. The country is described in Rte. 31.
(e.) NidderdoiU may be reached by railway from Harrogate (Rte.
21). Brimham C^rngi lie off the railway in the lower pajrt of the
dale. Pateley Bnd^ is the centre from which all the upper dale
may be explored. There is some good soenery near the Tillage; and
Upper Nidderdale is quite worth exploration. The lead-mines at Green-
how, and the stalactite cavern at Stump CrosB, are also to be reached
from Pateley Bridge.
(/.) There is a very good inn at Skipton (Rte. Z0\ from which
place RylBtone.(Rte. 31), Barden, Bolton Priory, and the lower Wharfe,
may be explored. Skipton itself is interesting for its old castle of
the Cliflbrds.
(ff.) lUdey (Rte. 30) abounds in hotel accommodation ; and its nutny
advantages as a centre are fully noticed in the route.
(J^) SeHk (Rke. S2) contains an excellent old-&shioned inn, and is,
whapa, the best point from which to visit Gordale and Malham^ Cove
(Rte. 82)— scenes which no tourist should leave Yorkshire without
seeing. There is a small inn at Horton, in Ribblesdaie^ from which the
xlvi TravdW^ View and Scenery. Introd.
ascent of Penyghent (Rte. 82) may be made. Either Penyghcnt or
Ingleborough may, however, be climbed in a long day's excursion from
Settle.
{k,) The neighbourhood of IngUton (Rte. 32a) is very interesting
and there is now good accommodation for tourists. There is also a
good inn at dapham (Rte. 32a), whence Ingleton is easily reached by
railway. Weatneroote Cave, Thornton Force, Kingsdale, and Tordas
Cave, are all within reach of Ingleton, and are all scenes of very great
beauty and interest
Q.) South-Wett Craven (Rte. 83) may be explored ftom either
Settle or Skipton. The accommodation at Gisbume is good, and that
place is nearer to the more interesting parts of the district This
oontams much picturesque scenery, although the hills of the forest
of Rowland, which form its western border, are by no means so fine
as those farther north. Bolton Hall and Sawley Abbey will repay the
antiquary for his visit The interest of the latter is principally confined
to its well-made-out ground-plan.
§ L. (4.)--7%c Fwest district in the neighbourhood of Sheffield. This
comer of Yorkshire, over which the great forest of Sherwood once
extended, is very distinct in character, and should on no account be
n^lected by the tourist Sheffield, Bamsley, and Rotherham are the
best centres. The chief places to be visited are Whamcliffe Chase
(Rte. 44), one of the finest scenes of wood and broken rock in the
county ; Wentworth Castle and park (Rte. 40) ; and Wentworth Wood-
house (Rte. 45). In these routes the district is fully described.
§ LI. — ^The most important collections of ptcfuresin Yorkshire are at
—Castle Howard (Earl of Carlisle, Rte. 12); Dunoombe Park (Lord
Feversham, Rte. 18a); Hornby Castle (Duke of Leeds, Rte. 23);
Temple Newsam" (Mrs. Meynell Ingram, Rte. 28); Gisbume Park
(Lord Ribblesdale, Rte. 33); Nostel Priory (Charles Winn, Esq.,
Rte. 38) ; Wentworth Castle (P. Vemon Wentworth, Esq., Rte. 40) ;
and Wentworth Woodhouse (Earl Fitzwilliam, Rte. 45). There aie
less extensive but valuable and interesting coHections at Escrick Park.
(Lord Wenlock, Rte. 1 ) ; at Hovingham Park (Sir W. Worsley, Rte. 18) ;
at Thomton-le-Street Hall (Earl Cathcart, Kte. 16); and at Brough
Hall (Sir John Lawson, Rte. 25). Some portraits worth notice are at
Bolton Hall (Lord Bolton, Rte. 24) ; at ELarewood (Earl of Harewood,
Rte. 29) ; at Bolton Priory (Duke of Devonshire, Rte. 30) ; and at
Wortley Hall (Loni Whamcliffe, Rte. 44).
At Newby Hall (Lady Mary Vyner,Rte. 22) is a fine collection of
ancient statuary. There is some very important statuary at Qaistle
Howard, and at Duncombe Park.
§ LH. — ^The traveller in Yorkshire will generally find that the
people, especially in the more remote districts, are, if roug^, very
nospitable, and very ready to assist him in any difficulty. The popu-
lation of the great towns differs, of course, very greatly from that
of the open country; but, here too^ civility will always bring civility;
and the tourist who shows a real desire to examine and to under-
IntcocL Tracdlm'9 View and Scenery, xlWi
stand the -miooB maau&cturing processes will have (if he bring
pfoper introductions) all possible assistance readily afforded to him.
0OU1 in town and country the dialects ¥nll often puzzle a Southerner
— (that of Cleveland is very peculiar, and is old Norse in accent^
even when the words are English). These differ greatly in different
parts of the oountry ; and although glossaries have been published
ibr many separate districts, a general survey of the Yorkshire
"speech still awaits the leisure and the learning of some competent
ncrtheni archaeologist. Some valuable observations on this Northum-
brian English, which Higden, writing about 1850, describes as '' so
harah and rude that we Southern men can hardly understand it'*
(' Pdychioaioon, ap. Oale'), will be found in an essay by the late
Mr. Cramett, in the * Quarterly Beview' for February, 1836 (' English
IMalecte*^ ; but the differences between the many local dialects in the
ooonty deeerve to be carefully examined and compared The general
fimndation of the Yorkshire speech is no doubt Anglian, which
remains most pure in the Craven district ; but this has been overlaid at
diffBrent times and in different places by Danish and Norse, and
nerhaps by Flemish or other Low Dutch dialects. Besides Yorkshire,
Narthnmbrian EnsUsh prevails throughout Northumberland and
Dorbam ; and (with some variation) in Cumberland, Westmoreland,
and Lancashire to the north of the Ribble. ** It is, as might be ex-
pected, more like English to the south of the Tees, and more like
Sootdi as we approach the Tweed, but its essential peculiarities are
everywhere preserved It is unquestionably, ' pace Ranulphi Higdeni
dixQTxmufl,' die most pleasmg of our provincial forms of speech,
especially as spoken in tne North and East Ridings of Yorkshire. The
Dnrham pronunciation, though soft, is monotonous and drawling ; and
that of N(»rthumberland is disfigured by the burr and an exaggerated
Scotch aoo^t" — Gamett. It is not every one who will agree with
lfr« Gamett in this matter; but the difference between southern
Eng^i^ and the harder northern is so marked, that the ear which has
from youth been accustomed to one will hardly be able to appie*
pate ndrly the merits of the other.
AwglmTi, of which Northumbrian English forms one division, em-
bnces two others— the East Anglian of Norfolk and Suffolk; and
the ICiddle Anglian of Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire, and East Derby-
shire. The Northumbrian of Yorkshire, in its mediaeval stages, is
wdl illustrated by the works of Richard RoUe, the ** Hermit of
Hampole,^ who' died in 1349. (See a short notice of him and of his
books in Rte. 1); and by the very remarkable religious verses con-
taining the Creed and the Ten Commandments, translated fiom the
Latin, under the direction of Archbishop Thoresby (1352-1373), by
John de Taystek (John of Tavistock ?), a monk of St. Maiy's, York,
to be distributed among the people for their better instruction. The
Ten Commandments and the preamble are printed in Mr. Rainess
♦ IlfB» of the ArcshWshope of York,* L p. 471 mq. All the verses will
be found in Mr. HaUiwell's 'Yorkshire Anthology' (printed for
xlviii TraoeOei^B View and Beenery. I&tvod«
private drcalatiim in 1851). This Yolome contains some good
examples of the modem dialects^ including 'Marjory Moorpoot and
Gnlwell,' illustrating the speeoh round Roseherry Topping: — ^^Ah's
Yorkshire/' says Mfmory, " oy ma truly I Ah wor bred and boom at
canny Tattan, aside o Boasbeiry Toppin ; "—and a ' Yorkshire dialogue
in the pure natural dialect as it is now commonly spoken in the north
parts of Yorkshire, 1697,'— (This is by Giles Merrington, a nattre of
Korihallerion, and was published by him in the same volume with %
poem "• in praise of Yoi^shireale.") Far some remarks cm Ghanoer's use
of the Graven dialect see Rte. 31, Langstrothdale,
The most important published glossaries are--* The Hallamshire
Glossary/ by the Eev. Joseph Hunter, 1829; *Tbe Dialect of Graven/
by a Native (the Bev. W. Garr, of Bolton Abbey), 2 vols. 8vo., 1830 ;
<A Glossary of Provincial WcHrds used in Teeedale,' 1849; *The
ShefiSeld Dialect,' bv Abel By water, 1854 ; < The Dialect of Leeds and
its Neighbourhood/ London, J. K Smith, 1862; 'A Specimen of the
Bilsdale Dialect,' Northallerton, 1882; 'A Glossary of Words and
Phrases collected in Whitby and its Neighbourhood,' 1855 ; * A Glossary
of the Gleveland Dialect/ by the Bev. J. G. Atkinson, London, 1868.
* The Bairnsla Folks Annual, by Tom Treddlehoyle,' is an almanac in the
load dialect, published regularly at Bamsley. Others are published at
Leeds, Bradfocd, and elsewhere. A ' List of Words used in the Moon'^
tainoBS District of the West Riding/ by Robert Willan, M.D., wiU be
foundin 1^ 'Archsaologia'fi>rl81L Yersions of the < Song of Solomdn,*
in (he Graven dialect^ in that of Sheffield, and in those of W. and N.
Yorkshire, were compiled and published under the direction of Prince
L. Napoleon. The stoty ci the 'Terrible Knitters e' Dent,' in
Southey's * Doctor/ is a veiy good illustration of the dialect of that
pact of Yorkshire which borders on Westmoreland.
f Lin. — ^There is no lack of good cheer in Yorkshiie; but local
'* plats " are not numterous. Yorkshire pie, however, in which game of
all sorts is imprisoned witibin huge standing walls of crusty is a
universal fieivourite at Ghristmas time. Yorkshire hams are excellent^
and generally of enovmouA sise. The western dairies are celebrated for
their cream cheeses: and a very good cheese — sometimes as good as
StUton-^is made at Gotherstone and the villages round, in the neigh*
bourhood of Bamafd Gasde. Wensleydale cheese has also a wide
reputation, which it has maintained fixim an early period. The monks
of Jervaulx, at the eastern opening of the dale, were fEimous for their
cheese, their singing, and their white horses.
§ LIY.— The Bakmia should provide himself with Mr. J. G» Baker's
' North Yorkshire ; Studies of its Botany, Geology, Glimate, and Phy>
sical Geography/ London, 1863. Baker and NowelL's * Yorkshiie Flora'
contains a complete list of the flowering plants, ferns, and mosses, with
the localities ot many of the rarer species. The publisher was Pamplin,
45» Frith Slxeet» Soho.
IbML BkdeUm Toutm. xliz
SKELETON TOURS.
No. L— A QENEBAL TOUR OF T0HK8HIBB,
Embraemff the chief points cfinUreit throughout the county (Scenery,
AniiqwiHeB, and Mctnt^aetwres), The more important are marMt
wink am (uteritk. This Tour ie of ten toeeks; hut many places
ieseribed in the Boutes are neoessaruy omitted.
1. Londoii to Doncaster.
2. See ^DoDcaster church and the zaoe-coarse in the xnormng. In
the afternoon visit (by rail) *Comn^horoagh Cat>tle.
3. By rail to Sdhy. See *Selby church. Thence by rail to HuU,
TJating ^Hbwden church on the way.
i. Se the docks and the church of the Holy Trinity at HulL In
tlie afternoon visit (by rail) the churches of *Hedon and *Patrington.
o. From Hull by xaO to Beveriey, See the ^Minster, and St Mail's
dlQTclu
6. Beverley by Market Weighton to Toric, visiting by the way
*Goodmanhain and Londesboroogh.
7. Sunday at York.
8. At Tork. See the ^Minster ; *St. Mary's Abbey and the gardens
of the Philosophical Society; some of the parish churches (sea Koute 1
kr the most interesting) ; and walk round the *walls.
9. From York to Castle Howard, Visit by the way Sheriff Hutton
(ehnrch and castle) and Kirkham (abbey ruins). No inn at Castle
Howard.
10. See the ^hoose at Castle Howard, Proceed to Malton. See tbe
cLonch and Boman station at Old Malton, Thence by rail to Scar-
borough.
XL At Scarboiou^ In the morning see the ^CastU and the parish
cburdu in the afternoon climb Oliver's Moant> and afterwards visits
wbfle the band is playine, the *Spa and Promenade.
12. By rail to Filey. See the ^church and the ^sandsw Walk along
*Filey Brig. Thence by roil to Bridlington.
13. Visit ^Flamborongh Bead and the Caves on the way to Brid-
lisgUaL
U. Sunday at Bridlington. See the *Priory Church.
15. Drive to Bndstone. See the church and ^upright stone ; and
ibence over the Wolds (so as to get some idea of that district), either to
Hoinnanliy or Filey. Tbenoe by rail to Scarborough.
16. Drive in the morning through the Force Valley to ♦Hackneas,
and thence round by Scalby. In tbe evemng proceed by rail to
[Yorkshire.']
I Skeletau Taur$. Inirod.
17. See Pickering ^Church and *<^astle. Then drive to Lastingbam,
visitins the ^Gawthom Gamps on the way. Return to Pickering, and
proceed by rail to Whitby.
18. At Whitby. See the old town and the ♦Abbey ruins. In the
afternoon widk or drive to the Park of Mulgrave and old Castle, and
if time allows, walk to Sandsend and see the site of the alum-works.
19. From Whitby the *£gton Woods ; and either walk or drive thence
to Rosedale. If posable, sleep at the Crown Inn in Bosedale village.
20. See the Rosedale iron-works ; and walk or drive (the road is but
indifferent for wheels) by Ralph Cross, idong the ridge between Westei^
dale and Danbydale to Gastleton. Return by rail to Whitby. [The
route planned for these two days will give an excellent id^ of the
Cleveland Moors ; but, at any rate, two days should be given to excur-
sions among the moors round Whitby.]
21. Sunday at Whitby.
22. The coast-road from Whitby to Saltbum.
23. Saltbum by rail to ^Middlesbrough. See one of the great ♦iron-
works. Thence by rail to Guisborough. See the * Priory ruins.
24. Guisborough to *Roseberry Topping. Thence to Stokesley and
Whorlton. See *Whorltoncharoh and Castle. Sleep at the Black Horse
at Whorlton.
25. Visit ♦Mount Grace Priory and Osmotherley. Thence to North
AUerton. See the churoh there.
26. To Thirsk by train. See the ♦church at Thirsk. Drive fixnn Thirsk
to Helmsley ; visiting ♦Gormire and * Whitestone Cliff by the way.
27. See Helmsley church, ♦Castle, and ♦Duncombe Park in the morn-
ing ; ♦Rievaulx Abbey in the afternoon.
28. Sunday at Helmsley.
29. Helmsley to Gilling. See ♦Gilling Castle. By rail to Borough-
bridge, visiting ♦Coxwold on the way. See the ♦Devil's Airows, at
Boroughbridge.
30. See the Roman remains at ♦Aldborough. Drive to Enares-
borough. See the ♦church, castle, Dropping Well, and St Robert's
Cave. Thence by rail to Harrogate.
31. At Harrogate. In the afternoon to the ♦Brimham Rocks.
82. By rail to Ripon. See the ♦Minster in the morning. In the
afternoon ♦Fountains Abbey.
83. Drive from Ripon by ♦Hadk Fall to Tanfield. Thence to Ley-
bum, visiting ♦Jervaulx Abbey and ♦Middleham Castle on the way.
34. Leybum to Hawes ; visiting ♦Wensley church ; 'Bolton Castle ;
Aysgarth church and *Force ; and the Waterfalls near Askrigg.
36. Sunday at Hawes, or try the Dragon at Hardraw ; visit ♦Hardraw
Force.
86. Hawes to Sedbergh. Bee Sedbergh church, and climb the mound
above the town. Thence by rail to Barnard Castle.
37. See the ♦Castle. Drive to ♦Bokeby, and thence round by Brignall
to Bowes, taking care to walk bv the Greta at Brignall, as recommended
in Rte. 26. Betum to Barnara Castle.
InlneL Skdeion Tours. li
38. Diiya to the ^High Force, by Cotheistone, Bomaldkirk, and
Mjidleton in Teeadale. See the High Force, and Bleep either at Middle-
ton or at the High Force Inn.
39. Ynt the ^Oaldron Snout ; and if the day ig fine, ascend ^Mickle*
fell Betum to Middleton.
40. Retom to Barnard Castle, and drive thence to Richmond.
41. See Bichmond *Castle and chuich. Walk to ^Easby Abbey.
DriTe to the *Raceooai8e.
42. Snnday at Richmond.
43i Drive from Richmond to Bedale,^ seeing by the way the Roman
et&don at Gatterick ; *Brough Hall (pictoresV if possible ; and *Homby
Gsstle (pictiireB). At Bedale see the *ohnrch.
44. fVom Bedale by rail to Ilkley. Stop at Otley and ascend the
•Chevin.
45. See the church at Ilkley, Drive to ♦Bolton Priory ; and walk
tbioDgh the woods to ^Barden Tower, where the carnage should be in
vaitiD^ Drive thence to Skipton.
46. Bxcnrsion from Skipton by Rylston to Eilnsey Crag.
47. Drive £rom Skipton to Settle (or order a carriage from Malham
to meet 3^00 at Bell Busk staticm) ; visiting *Gord3le and *Malham
Go^ by the way.
48. Excursion from Settle to Horton and Selside. If fine, ascend
^Penygheni.
49. Sunday at Settle.
50. By rail to Clapham. See the *Cavem. Thence a good pedestrian
should (if the weather is fine) walk across *Ingleborough, and, descend-
ing upon *Chapel-le-Dale, regain the railway at Ingleton, retuminz
tbenoe to Settle. Otherwise drive from Clapham to Ingleton, and
thflioe to *Chapel-le-Dale. Return to Settle.
51. Bail from Settle to *Bolton-in-Bolland, and *Sawley Abbey.
Thence by rail to Skipton.
52. Skipton by rail to Bradford — stopping at Keighley to visit
•Haworth.
53. See Bradford church, and *the view from the cemetery. In the
afternoon to ^Saltaire.
54. Visit the *Low Moor Ironworks ; and proceed thence by rail to
Hali&x. See the ^parish church, and the *chtirch of All Saints, Haley
55. Halifax to Leeds. See the ^parish church, *St John's chursh,
and the Museum of the Institute. Afterwards *Eirkstall Abbey.
56. Sunday at Leeds,
57. If introductions have been procured, givie the day to the factories
of Leeds. Or make an excursion to * Adel church, and thence to "^Hare-
wood draroh and Castle. (The house and gardens are open on Thurs-
days only.)
68. Visit ♦Temple Newsam (pictures). Return to Leeds, and proceed
tbenoe by rail to Wakefield. See ♦Wake&eld church, and the
*ehantiy on the bridge.
Hi SkdeUm Tours. InixoA.
Dw
69. ExeanioD to Nostel Prioiy (pictures); ihanoe bj rail to Poate-
fract See the ^Castle and ohnick Betom to Wakefield.
60. Wakefield by rail to Huddersfield; stopping at the Thornton
Lees station for yisits to Dewsbury *chujch and *Thonihill church.
Batley, the great seat of shoddy manufacture, may also be visited on
the way.
61. Visit ^Almondbury Gamp and church ; and ^Woodsome Hall.
Betum to Huddersfield.
62. Huddersfield, by Penistone, to Barnsley. See Penistone church
and *Silk8tone church. Make an excursion to Monk Bretton Priory.
63. Sunday at Barnsley.
64. Drive to *Wentworth Oastle. Betuming to Barnsley, proceed to
Sheffield by rail.
65. See *St. Peter's church at Sheffield, and visit a steel fiactcty and
warehouse also the park and cemetery.
66. Excursion to Whamcliffe Gbase.
67. Sheffield to Botherham *church; and ^Wentworth Woodhoose
(pictures). Betum to Botherham.
68. Drive from Botherham by *Boche Abbey and Tickhill (Castle
and church), to Bawtry, where the Great Norihem Bailway is gained*
No. IL— A MONTHS WALKING TOUB.
This is the route followed and described in Mr. White's ' Month in
Yorkshire.* The IcMigest day's walk is 26 miles ; the next 22 ; and all
the rest from 14 to 18. Many of the resting-pUoes are necessarily
small country iims, where the accommodation, though generally dean,
is otherwise, of course, but indifferent.
Tioudon to Hull by steamer.
Dftyi.
1. Excttrsion by rail to Patrington. Thence walk to Spurn Head
and back. Betum by rail to HulL
2. To Beverley by rail. Walk to Hornsea.
d. Bail to Bridlington. Thence by Flamborough Head to the
village of Flamborough.
4. Walk to Filey. Thence through Scarborough to Gloughton.
6. Walk by Bobin Hood's Bay to Whitby.
6. At Whitby. Excursions to Egton Bridge or to Mulgrave Park.
Betum to Whitby.
7. Along the coast by the old alum-works at Sandsend, to Bonswick
and Staithes.
8. Along the coast to Bedoar. Thence by Kirkleatham to Guisborough.
9. Glimb Boeeberry Topping. Thence to Marton and Stockton. By
rail from Stockton to Darlmgton.
htn/L Skddm Taun. liii
10. Br ndl to Bunard GBsde. Walk to Bokeby and Wycliffe. Be*
tora to Barnard Castle in time for the omnibus to Middleton in Teesdale.
(It starts about 6*30 P.]i.) Sleep either there, or 6 m. further, at the
fiif^ Forae Inn.
11. See the Hieh Foroe. Walk to Caldron Snout Thenoe climb
Mickle Fell ; and descend on Ekough.
12. Flom Brongh to Thwaito in Swaledale. Thenoe over the
Bottatubs Pass to Hawes.
13. Exwm to Bainbridga Thenoe visit the '"forces"— Mill GUI and
Whitfield, near Aakrigg. Steep at Bainbridge.
14. dimb Addleborough. Descend on Simmer Water, walk thenoe
tfann^ Widdale to the inn at Newby Head.
15. By the Gearatones inn and Chapel-le-Dale to Clapham. In fine
Mtfav OTOBS IngieboiDUgh from Chapel-le-Dale.
Ifi. By rail to Skipton. Thenoe to Bolton Priory. Thence by
Baiden to the Anglei^s Inn at Kilnsey.
17. Bf Kettlewell and Buokden ; down Bishopdate to Aysgarth.
1& By Garperby and Bolton Castle. Thenoe by the <* Scarth Nick "
raid to Bicfamond. Visit Easby. View from Bace-couiae.
19l By Tsil to Bip<»L Walk to Fountains Abbey. By rail from
BipoQ to Thirak.
20. Walk from Thirsk, bv Qormire and the Hambletons, to Rievanlx
AMbefy, Tbeaoe to Helmsiey through Duncombe Park. By rail to
GillhuL Thence by tiain to York.
2L At York.
22. By rail to Leeds. Walk to Eirkstall Abbey. By rail to Settle.
23. Walk to Gordale and Malham. Back to Settle. By txain to
KeigUey.
24. Walk to Haworth (?) and back. By train to Shipley. Thence to
Saltsiie. Bail to Bradford.
25. By rail to Mirfield and Batley. Thence to Wakefield.
26.BailtoShe£SeId.
NaUL— CLEVELAND AND THE COAST.
The inns marked * will not afford extensiye accommodation^ but are
exoeilent centres for pedestrians.
BoQtei and ReitiDg-plMea, Places to be vldted.
YobetoMai/ton Between York and Mai ton see Sheriff
Button Castle; Kirkham Priory;
and Castle Howard.
Maltoh TO ScABBOBOUGH .. From Scarborough visit Hackness, and
the coast N. and S.
liv SkdeUm Tours. Introd.
RooteB and Resttng-plaoei. Fljwes to be vltlted.
Filey Filey Brig and the coast to Flam-
borough.
Bridlington Flamhoroogh Head and the Gaves.
VoHNSTONB Arms hns, at Hack- Troutdale, the upper valley of the Der-
neas went, and the neighbouring moon.
*Faloon Ink, 8 m. N. of Scar- This is the best centre for exploring
borough. the moors between Scarborouga
and Bobin Hood's Bay.
PiOKBBiKa Gawthom Gamps. Lastmgham. New-
tondale. The moors £. of the
railway.
Whitby The coast K. and S. Egton Bridge.
Glaisdale, and all Eskdale between
Egton and Gastleton. Ibumdale,
and the moors E. of the railway.
Gothlandale and Wheeldale.
*Ro6EDALB. (Grown Inn) .. Lower part of Bosedale. Famdale.
The moors between Bosedale and
Gastieton.
*Ga8TLET0N Danby Dale, Gastle, and Moors. Free-
borough Hill. Westerdale. Base*
dale.
Inolsby Greenhow Upper parts of Bransdale and Bils-
dale.
GuiSBOROUGH Boseb^ry Topping. The valleys to-
ward Saltbom.
Saltburn-by-the-Sea •• .. Marake; Bedcar. The valleys inland.
The coast eastward.
Stattheb BoulbyGliffo. Bunswick.
*Blaok HoRSB, Inn, Whorlton. Gleveland Hills, between Whorlton
and Ingleby Greenhow.
*QuEEN Gatherinx Ink, Os- Mount Grace Priory. Walk down
hotherlxy, Byedale to BievaiUx.
Thirsk Hambleton Hills. Whitestone Gliff.
Gormiie.
GoxwoLD Byland Abbey. Walk over the hills
to BievaubL
GiLLiNO Gastle.
Helmsley • .. Bievaulx. Dunoombe. Lower part
of Bilsdale.
*Inn at Ghop Gate in Bils- Upper parts of Bilsdale and Brans-
DALE, near Bilsdale Ghurch. dale.
EnLBBY MooBSiDB Bransdalc. Lower part of Famdale.
htrod« SkeldoH Tovrs.
No. IV.-.THE WESTEBN MOUNTAINS.
(Inns marked * are only fitted for pedestrians.)
Bootes and Resting-plaoea. PUoes to be vliited.
Leeds to Skifton Between Leeds and Skipton, Haworth
and the surroandinK Moofb should
be visited from Keignley.
SuFTOV Moors between Skipton and Bolton;
and between Skipton and Thresh-
field.
DsTORSBiBE Abms, Bolton «. Bolton Priory. The Wharfe and hills
overlooking the river here.
Ilklet BombaldMoor. Otley Chevin.
*£iBXBT Malham Malham Gove, Gordale, and surround-
ing moors.
AxeuEB's AsKSy K1LN8ET .. Wharfe and neighbouring moors.
Skifare, and Littondale.
KsTTLEWELif All Upper Wharfedale. Great Whem-
side.
*BccKDEN Bishopdale. W&ldendale. Parts of
Langstrothdale.
Seitlb Bibbledde. Penyghent, and all the
neighbouring moors. Forest of Bow-
land, S.W.
GibBUMB Lower Ribbledale. Bolton HalL Saw-
ley Abbey.
Clafham The Caves. Ingleborough.
UoueroH Kinmdale. CSiapel-le-Dale. Whem-
side. Yordas Gave, and Easgill.
'Gkabstohbb Inn, near Bibble* Ingleton Fells. Gam Fell. Parts of
Head. Langstrothdale.
Minr AT Nbwbt Hsab .. .. Widdale Fell, and surrounding moors.
Hawkb Hardraw Force. The Buttertubs Pass,
between Hardraw and Thwaite.
Hawes nA«r serve as a centre for
much of the country between it
and Ingleton ; and from it the hills
may best be explored which lie
between Hawes and Sedbergh.
Sedbbbob How Gill. The Calf. Baugh Fell.
Dent I>ale ; and all the country on
the Westmoreland border.
AsKBieo Semmer Water. Bainbridge. Ays-
garth. The hills between Wens-
leydale and Swaledale.
Atsoabth Bishojpdale. Waldendale. Pen Hill.
M SideUm Tamra. Introd.
Roates and ResMng-pIaoes. Kftoes to be TUted.
Letbubn All Wenslejdale may be explored
from here. Middleham. Jervaiilx.
Gountxy between Leybum and
Bichmond. Swaledale.
•MuKKB OB •Thwaite .. .. Buttcrtubs Pass. Upper part of
Swaledale.
Beeth Swaledale. Arkengartbdale.
BicHMOin) Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Catter-
ick. Hornby Castle. Country
between Bichmond and Barnard
Castle.
Barnabd Castlb Eokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The
Greta. W^liflfe. Bowes. Country
between Barnard Castle and Mid-
dleton. Stainmore.
MiDDLETON US Teesdale, ot Upper Valley of Tecs. Lunedale.
High Force Inn. High Force. Caldron Snout.
Mickle Fell, and aurroanding
moors.
HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE.
BOUTES.
*«* The namea of places are printed in UaHes only in those xontes where thej4aeef are
described.
BOUTB PAGE
1. Lmdon to York, by Don-
caster and Selby, — (Great
Northern Bailway) ... 2
1 A. London to York, by Luton,
Bedford, Leicester, Loogh-
borongh, and Trent June'
(urn.— (Midland BaUway) . 76
2. Boncaster to Tork, by Knot-
Ufwley.^JBoUon Percy. . 78
3. London to SvU, by Don-
caster, T%of7ie,and Oode,
-— Hatfield Chate ... 85
4. Enottingley to Goole, by
Snaith 102
5. Milford Junction to Hull,
by Selby and JESnoden . . 104
6. Hull, by Sedan and Pa-
tringtan to WUhemsea,
(8pwm Head.) The Hoi-
demesB Coast to Hornsea 108
7 HnntoJabfti«eaand£%^Msa 120
& York to Sswrlevand Hull,
hj Market Wetghton.—
AlK) to Selby 125
9. Hull to Bridlington, by Be-
yerley and DnJfiM ... 147
10. Beveiley to Bridlington —
Road 150
11. Malton to Driffield. (The
Wolds) 152
12. York to Scarborough, by
CasOe Howard and. Malton 156
13. Scaiborongh to JFVZsy, .F%im-
borough Head, and Brid-
lingUm 181
14. York to Whitby, by Malton
tadPkkering ... .190
[ForMtre.] ^ l
BOVTE PAOB
15. Whitby to Stockton-npon-
Tees, by Stokesley (Guis-
borough^ Boieberry Top-
ping) 208
15 a. >¥hitby to Ouisborough
and Middlesbrough ... 216
16. York to Darlii^ton, by
ThMc and North AUerton 218
17. Stockton to Saltbum, by
Middlesbrough and Bedcar 2S0
18. Thiisk to Malton by Cox-
wold, Byland Abbey, and
OiUing 236
18 a. Gilline to Pickering, by
HamSeu(BievaulxMhey%
Kirkby Moorside^ and Las-
Ungham—BaH . . . 242
19. York to Boroughbridge and
Aldborough 252
20. York to KnareAorough and
Harrogate (Marston Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
{BHmhaim Oragga), Nid-
22. Hirrogate to Northallerton,
HaekfaU, and Tanfidd . ! 274
23. Northallerton to Xey&ttfti, by
Bedaie (Middleham, Jer-
wndx Abbey, Honiby
CasOe) 301
24. Wendeydaie. — Leybwm to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by BoUon Castle,
Aysgarth, Askrigg, Hawes,
(Hardraw Force) ... 312
24A.Bawe6toMuker . . . . 322
B
Ivi SldeUm Tmara. Introd.
SoQtes and ResHng-pIaoes. Kftoes to be virited.
Letbubn .. .. r All Wenslejdale may be explored
from here. Middleham. Jenraulx.
Countxy between Leybum and
Richmond, Swaledale.
•MuRKB OB •Thwaite .. .. Butteitubs Pass. Upper part of
Swaledale.
Heeth Swaledale. Arkengarthdale.
Richmond Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Catter-
ick. Hornby Castle. Country
between Richmond and Barnard
Castle.
Barnabd CASTTiB Rokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The
Greta. Wycliflfe. Bowes. Country
between Barnard Castle and Mid-
dleton. Stainmore.
MiODLETOK rs Teesdale, or Upper Valley of Tees. Lnnedale.
High Force Inn. High Force. Caldron SnouL
Mickle Fell, and sunoanding
moors.
HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE.
BOUTES.
*«* The namefl of places are printed in ikOiet only in those routes where the j4aeef tre
described.
BOCTE PAGE
1. London to Torhy by Don-
easier and Selby. — (Great
Northern Bailway) ... 2
1 A. London to York, by Luton,
Bodlbrd, Leicester, Loogh-
boroogh, and Trent June-
<ibn.— (Midland Railway) . 76
2. Doncaster to Tork, by Knot-
tingley.—BoUon Percy, . 78
8. London to EvU, by iXm-
caster, Thome^Bsid. Ooole,
—EaifieldChate ... 85
4. Sjiottingley to Goole, by
SnaOh 102
5. Milf ord Junction to Hull,
br Selby and Howden . . 104
a HnJl, by Sedan and Pa-
tringUm to WUherMea,
(Sfluim Head.) The Hol-
demesB Coast to Hornsea 108
7 HnUto£bfti«eaand£%^Msa 120
& York to Sswrley and Hull,
by MarluA WetghUm,—
Also to Selby 125
9. Hull to Bridlington, by Be-
yerley and Drmdd ... 147
10. Beverley to Kidlington —
Road 150
11. Malton to Driffield. (The
Wblds) 152
12. York to Searbonmghj by
CataeBaufarduidiMaUon 156
13. Scarborough to Ft2ey, Ffatfi-
honmgh Head, and Brid-
UngUm 181
14. York to Whi(by, by Malton
and Piekering ... .190
{YorkMre.'i ^ l
BOUTE PAGE
15. Whitby to Stockton-m)on-
Tees, by Stokesley (Otiis-
borough^ Boeeberry Top-
ping) 208
15 a. Whitby to Ctuisborough
and Middlesbrough . . .216
16. York to Darlington, by
Thirtih and North AUerion 218
17. Stockton to Saltbum, by
MiddOeetmmgh and Bedear 230
18. Thirsk to Malton by Co»-
iooldf Byland Abbey, and
CHUing 236
18 a. Gilline to Pickering, by
HelmSev(BievaulxMhey),
Kirkby mooreidej and Lae-
Ungham—Bajl . . . 242
19. York to Boroughbridge and
Aldborough 252
20. York to Knareeborough and
Harrogate (Martton Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
(BHmham Oragga), Nid-
derdale 268
22. Harrogate to Northallerton,
by j^^pon, Fountains Abbey,
HaekfaU, and Tanfidd. . 274
23. Northallerton to Leybum, by
Bedale (Middleham, Jer-
wndx Abbey, Hornby
CasOe) 301
24. Wendeydale, — Leybwn to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by BoUon CasOe,
Ausgarth, Askrigg, Hawes,
(fiardraw Foree) ... 812
24A.Bawe6toMiiker . . . . 322
Ivi Shdaon Tour8. Introd.
Roates and Bestlng-plaoes. RaooB to be virited.
Letbubn All Wensleydale may be explored
from here. Middleham. Jervaolx.
Gountxy between Leybum and
Richmond, Swaledale.
•MuKKE OB ♦Thwaite .. .. ButtcTtubs Pass. Upper part of
Swaledale.
Heetth Swaledale. Arkengarthdale.
Richmond Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Catter-
ick. Hornby Castle. Country
between Richmond and Barnard
Castle.
Barnabd CASTTiB Rokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The
Greta. Wycliflfe. Bowes. Country
between Barnard Castle and Mid-
dleton. Stainmore.
MiDDLETOK US Teesdale, ot Upper Valley of Tees. Lnnedale.
High Force Inn. High Force. Caldron SnouL
Mickle Fell, and sorroonding
moors.
HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE.
BOUTES.
V The namefl of places are printed in iiaUa only in those routes where the jilaeet tre
described.
BOms PAGE
1. Lcmdon to York, by Don-
caster and B^by. — (Great
Northern Bailway) ... 2
1 A. London to York, by Luton,
Bedfofd, Leicester, Longh-
boroogh, and Trent JunC"
(um.— (Midland Railway) . 76
2. Boncaster to Tork, by £no<-
UiMlei/,^BoUon Percy, . 78
a London to SvU, by Lkm-
caster, Thome^ and Oocie,
— Hatfield ChoBe ... 85
4. Knottingley to Goole, by
SnaUh 102
5. Milford Junction to Hull,
by Selby and Howden . . 104
a Hnl], by Sedan and Pa-
tringUm to WUhemsea.
(8pwm Head.) The Hol-
demesB Coast to Hornsea 108
7 Hull to J^omssa and £%^sea 120
8. York to Bsserley and Hull,
by Market WeighUm.--
Also to 8elby 125
9. Hull to Bridlington, by Be-
verley and Drmdd ... 147
10. Beverley to lEfridlington —
Bead 150
11. Malton to Driffield. (The
WMs) 152
12. York to Scarborough, by
CkuOe Howard and MaUon 156
13. Scazborongh to FUey, Flam-
honmgh Head, and Brid-
Ungtom 181
14. Yofk to WhiOfy, by Malton
and Pidtering ... .190
{Torkthire.} ^ i. _
BOUTE PAGE
15. Whitby to Stockton-npon-
Tees, by Stokesley (GuU-
borough^ Boeeberry Top-
mitby
15 a. Whitby to Ouieborough
and Middlesbrough . . .216
16. York to Darlington, by
Thinik and North AUerton 218
17. Stockton to Saltbum, by
Middtesbrough and Bedear 230
18. Thirsk to Malton by Cox-
vHjld, Byland Abbey, and
GiUing 236
18 a. Gilline to Pickering, by
HetrndevCBievaulxMbey),
Kirkby Mooreide, and Lae-
Ungham—Bajl . . . 242
19. York to Boroughbridge and
Aldborough 252
20. York to KnwreAorough and
Harrogate (Marston Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
(Brimham Oraggs), N^-
derdale 268
22. HaiTogate to Northallerton,
HackfaU, and Taf^field. ! 274
23. Northallerton to Leybum, by
Bedaie (Middkham, Jer-
wndx Abbey, Hornby
Castle) 301
24. Wendeydaie. — Leybwn to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by BoUon CkuOe,
Aysgarth, Askrigg, Hawes,
(Hardraw Force) ... 812
24A.Bawe6toMuker . . . . 322
B
Ivi SldeUm Tawra. InirocL
SoQtes and Restlng-pboes. RaooB to be TUted.
Letbubn All Wensleydale may be explored
from here. Middleham. Jervaalx«
Gountxy between Leybum and
Bichmond« Swaledale.
*MuRKB OB *Thwaite .. .. Buttertubs Pass. Upper part of
Swaledale.
Heeth Swaledale. Arkengarthdale.
Richmond .. Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Gatter-
ick. Hornby Castle. Country
between Richmond and Barnard
Castle.
Babnabd Ca6TT<b • Bokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The
Greta. Wycliflfe. Bowes. Ooontiy
between Barnard Castle and Mid-
dleton. Stainmore.
MiODLBTOK IN Teebdalb, ot Upper Valley of Tees. Lonedale.
High Force Inn. High Foroe. Caldron SnonL
Mickle Fell, and sorronnding
moors.
HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE.
ROUTES.
*•* The namefl of places are printed In iiaHet only in those routes where the j4aeef are
deecribed.
BOCTK PAGE
1. Loodon to York, by Don-
caster and StiSby, — (Great
Northern Bailway) ... 2
1 A. London to York, by Luton,
Bodfbrd, Leicester, Loogh-
boroogh, and Trent Junc'
(urn.— (Midland Bailway). 76
2. Doncaster to York, by Knot-
iingley.—JBoUon Percy. . 78
3. London to SvU, by t)on-
caster, Thome^ and Ooclle.
■-'HatfiMChaae ... 85
4. Knottingley to Goole, by
BmaUh 102
5. Milford Junction to Hull,
by Selby and Howdea . . 104
6. Hni], by Bed/on and Pa-
tringUm to WiiherMca,
(SpiBm Head.) The Hoi-
demesB Coast to Hornsea 108
7 HnUtoJSbniMaandiSlkfosea 120
8. York to SswrlMf and Hull,
by Market Wmghton,^
AlK) to Selby 125
9. Hull to Bridlington, by Be-
yerley and Drmdd ... 147
10. Beverley to Bridlington —
Road 150
11. Kalton to Driffield. (The
Wolde) 152
12. York to Scarhoroughj by
CaeOe Howard and Malton 156
13. Scazboroogh to FUey, Flam-
honmgh Head, and Brid-
Un^an 181
14. York to Wkiilfy, by Malton
tak& Pickering ... .190
{Torkthire.'] ^ l
BOirrE PAGE
15. Whitby to Stockton-won-
Tees, by Stokesley (&ims-
borough, Boeeberry Top-
ping) 208
15 a. Whitby to Ouisborough
and Middlesbrough ... 216
16. York to Darliii^ton, by
ThMc and North AUerton 218
17. Stockton to Saltbum, by
MiddUsbrough and Bedcar 230
18. Thirsk to Malton by Cox-
toold, Byland Abbey, and
CHUing 236
18 a. Gilline to Pickering, by
Helm3eu(BievaiuixMhey%
Kirkby Moorride, and Lae-
Ungham'-'Bail . . . 242
19. York to Boroughbridge and
AldboTOugh 252
20. York to Knareeborough and
Harrogate (Mardon Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
{Brimham Oragga), Nid-
derddU 268
22. Harrogate to Northallerton,
by jR^pon, FowUaine Abbey,
HackfdU, and Tar^idd. . 274
23. Northallerton to Leybwm, by
Bedaie (MiddUham, Jer-
vaul» il666y, Hornby
CadU) 301
24. Wendeydale. — Leifiwn to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by BoUon CasOe,
Aysgarth, Askrigg, Hatees,
(Hardraw Force) ... 812
24A.Bawe6toMuker . . . . 322
B
Ivi SideUm Taura. Inirod.
SoQtes and ResHng-plaoes. RaooB to be TUted.
Letbu&n .. .. r All Wensleydale may be explored
from here. Middleham. Jenraolx.
Gountxy between Leybum and
Bichmond« Swaledale.
•MuRKE OB *Thwaite .. .. ButtcTtubs Paas. Upper part of
Swaledale.
Keeth Swaledale. Arkengartbdale.
Richmond Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Catter-
ick. Hornby Castle. Country
between Bichmond and Barnard
Castle.
Babnabd Castlb Bokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The
Gretk Wycliflfe. Bowes. Country
between Barnard Castle and Mid-
dleton. Stainmore.
MipDLETOK US Tebbdalb, ot Upper Valley of Tees. Lnnedale.
High Force Inn. High Force. Caldron Snout.
Mickle Fell, and surroonding
moors.
HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE.
VTbci
BOUTES.
9 of plaoM are printed in Udtiet only in those routes where the j4aeef are
deecrihed.
sons PAGE
1. London to York, hy Don-
cotter and 8eihy, — (Ghreat
Northern Bailwa^) ... 2
Ik. London to York, by Luton,
Bedford, Leicester, Loogh-
bonmgh, and Trent June'
(»im.— (Midland Bailwaj) . 76
2. DoDcaster to Tork, by Knot-
Ungleff.-^JBoUon Percy, . 78
3. London to EvU, hv Doa-
caster, Thomet and Oooile.
--Hatfield Cha$B ... 85
1 Knottinglej to Goole, by
8naUh 102
5. Milford Junction to Hull,
by Selby and Hoteden . . 104
6 Hidl, by Sedan and Pa-
tringtan to WUkemtea,
(Sfrnn Head.) The Hol-
demesB Coast to Hornsea 108
7 Hiinto£brnseaandiSX^sa 120
8i York to Sewrley and Hull,
by Market Weighton.—
Also to Selby 125
9. Hull to Bridlington, by Be-
Toley and Driffldd . . . 147
10. Beverley to Bridlington--
Boad 150
ll.MsHon to Driffield. (The
Wolde) 152
12. York to Searborough, by
(kuOe Howard and Malum 156
13. Scaxboroogb to FUey, Flam-
honmgh Head, and Brid-
UngUm 181
14. York to Whiihy, by Malton
tad P^dkertfio ... .190
BOUTE PAGE
15. Whitby to Stockton-npon-
Tees, by Stokesley (Gnu-
borough^ BotAerry Top-
ping) 208
15 a. Whitby to QuiAorough
and Middlesbrough ... 216
16. York to Darlii^g^tcm, by
Thirik and Norlh AUerton 218
17. Stockton to Saltbum, by
Middlesbrough and Bedcar 230
18. Thirsk to Malton by Cox-
wold, Byland Abbey, and
Oming 286
18 a. Gilline to Pickerine, by
HamSev(B%evaulxM)ey%
Kirkby moornde, and Lae-
Ungham—Bail . . . 242
19. York to Boroughbridge and
Aldborouah 252
20. York to Knareeborough and
Harrogate (Mareton Moor) 256
21. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge
(Brimham Oraggs), Nid-
derdale 268
22. Harrogate to Northallerton,
by jR^pon, Fountains Abbey,
HaekfaU, and Tanfidd. . 274
23. Northallerton to Xey&tim,by
BedaU (Middleham, Jer-
wndx Abbey, Hornby
CaeOe) 301
24. Wendeydale. — Le^mm to
Hawes Junction and Sed-
bergh, by Bolton CasOe,
Awgarlh, Askrigg, Hawes,
(Hardraw Fores) ... 312
24A.Bawe8toMuker . . . . 322
B
jSoiUe 1. — London to Torh, — Bawtry.
836
348
B0I3CT PAGE
25. YoAiomehmondySwaledale,
BeM, Mvker, and Barnard
Castle, by DaJton Junction
and CaUericic Bridat . . 323
26. Darlington to Baimari CatUs
(lMuiby%Bowea(Ja8ae,aik6i
Mggletiine Abbeu . .
27. Baniaid Castle to ifiddleton
in-TeetdaiUf High Force.
•—MMdOefdl
28. London to Leedt, (1) by
Donoaster and Wakefield;
(2) by Pontefract and
Wakefield; (3} by PmU-
fract and CasO^ord . . 852
29. Leedi to Hairoffaie {KMc-
staO, HarewoM) ... 372
80. Leeds to Skipton: ▲. By
OOey and IVdey {BoUon
Priory, Wharf edale) ... 878
81. Skiptonto£0ttt0io6a(Z7fM)er
Wharf edaU) .... 897
82. S^yUmioIiigleion,hj Settle
(MaXham, Qordale, Vido-
WaGbw}.H^dlandHly.) 402
82 a. Skiptonto€3ap^bin,Jfi{)ife-
Umy KMcby Lomdaie.—
The Torkshire Cavee . . 413
88. Settle to Chatbnm (Cfie-
bumet Sawley Abbey) . . 419
84. Leedi to Skipton, by Bingley
and Keighky (SaUaire^
Hmoorth) ..:... 442
BOTJTB PACK
35. Leeds to Bradford (Low
Moor Jrowworke) . . . 430
36. Leeds to Bradford and Hali-
fax, by haister Dyke,
Qtuaubury and Thorw
ton 437
37. Leeds to Manchester, by
Dewtimry and Huddara-
field 447
38. Leeds to Wakefield (Norid
Priory, WaUon HaU) . . 457
39. Wakefield to Halifax.-'
(Lancashire and Torkshire
Ely.) 466
40. Wakefield to Doncaster, by
Bamdey and Mescborough
(Coningsborough) . . . 471
41. Lond<m to Leed8.---<N. Mid-
land Railway) 47^
42. Leeds to Selby, by Milford
Junction 481
48. London to Harrozate, by
Tadoagter and Wetharby . 484
44. Huddersfield to Sheffield, by
PenisUme and Woriley , .490
45. Sheffield to Doncaster, by
MJoufborough (Boiherham,
Wenhoorth Houee) ... 508
46. Sheffield to BamsleyCJBbeZes-
field) 514
47. Botherham to Bawtry, by
TMAia (Boche Abbey) . 516
ROUTE 1.
LONDON TO YORK, B7 DONCASTER
AND 8ELBY.
(Great Northern Badhoay,
King's Crou 8UU.)
. Didanee from London to Tork,
189 m. 9 trains daily; the express
in 4 hrs. 15 min., orainair trains in
5h]8.15min. (For Bte. by Midland
BIy. see Route 1 a.)
(The **gnftt North TCMd" In «h« days of
posting, was chiefly mBarlubla Ibr the ab-
■enoe of soenexy or bAmm of interut along its
oonne. The Gnat northern Bailwayfollowe
nearly the same Une. The rly. passes through
nrach rkh and fertile eoantryi bnt it opens
no picturesque scenery, and the only places
of importance between London and the border
of Torkshire an-^Peterborougk, where the
tourist should look out for a fine view of the
west ft«nt of the cathedral; ^fwitAoM, with
its noble church and Almost tmilTalled spire ;
and JTeioark, where the castle nsminds na ef
the death of King John, whldi occurred
within its walls. The Great Nonhstn does
not fbUow the Une of a Bomaa nad ttom
London ; batat Bawtry it meets an mndent
cross-road ttank lindua (Uncoln), ind pro-
ceeds In a line with it to I>oncaster and
GMtleiaid.)
At 148 m. from London,
Bawtry Stat, we enter Yorkshire.
Bawtry is a TiUaffe of about 1000
Inhab., containing little or nothing to
attract the tonrist The dL has some
Norm, portions; but the tower is
BotUe L—Jioesingion^IioncaHer,
Th«ps ii a ^
a dy^eL ki|2ided by tb Joyoxton
frnJO/y wh» were long resident here.
Baw^ ie <ii^ the xrest North rood ;
and li. was Iwre that the Sheriff of
Tcibluie anciently met royal per-
soDBffeB and condncted them over
the DOinder of the county. When
Hen. Vm. Yiaied Torkahire in 1541,
after the rising known as the**Pil-
erimage of Grace,** he wae met at
Bawtij V ''200 gentlemen of the
caantj in velvet, and 4000 tall yeo-
men and serringmen well horsed, who
Qu their knees made a submission
hj the month of Sir Bobert Bowes,
and presented the king with 9002.**—
rFhere is a Boman camp near the
Tidiige of AuOerUM (1 m. N.E.) ;
and the ch. (las Norman portions. At
Tiekhm (4 m. W.) are a fine Perp. ch.
and the-redmins of a castle* See
Bte.47,1
151^ m. ilosiM^toft. The
cfc. hetek which has a Ncnn. chancel
aich and S. dooi^ was pipbably
eieeted by the Fosncds, l«rds of
DoBcaster and the sonoonding. dis-
tarici ham the Ckmmiest to the reign
of Bjchaid L In uie churehyaid is
iht gEave of Charles Bosyile^-died
1709. Like Bampfieid Moore Carew
ia the S<Nith, Bosvile made himself
tJbe diief d the Northern gipsies,
and liiswGrd among them was law.
**Ha was a gentlsman with an estate
ol about 200<. a-year, and Is described
by De la Pryme, of Hatfield, as 'a
mad spaik» mighty fine and brisk,
and keeps company with a great
mai^ gentlemen, kaig^ts, and es-
qniiies, yet mns abcnt the eonntry.'
... No gipsy for many years
passed BBtr Bassmgton withont going
to pay- respect to the grsTO of him
whosa ihey called tJieir king; and I
am isfbrauod that even now, if the
itOTtlBni were asked of any of the
people wbo stiU hannt the laatt itt
3
this iieighboariloQd^ especially abont
the time of Dcncasfer teces, they
wonUk answer that they wore Bos-
vile'a people.*'— (fi«i<er's A York*
[In the ch. of TTocKisoHft, 4 m. W.,*
is an effigy (14th cent), which is
probably that of a forester. The
dress, as Mr. Bloxam has pointed
out, etactly agrees with that of
GhancerVi « Yeoman Porester :*'—
'* And he wu clad in cote and bode of grene.
And by kis side a nrord and a boketcr ;
An borne be bara; tibe bawdricke w«a
of
was be sothely as I gesse.'
The effigy of Jenkin Wyrral in New-
land churchyard, Gioocestershire,
should be conmarod. Pew similar
memorials existj
l^rom Bossington the. line proceeds
through a lerel district to
156| m. DonetuUr Stat.
SoUt$z PyeTs, Aanl Hotel (vety good and
oomlbnable) ; Beindeer.
Jtadwaift : To York (Great Korti&eni), 9
tMina daily. To Wakefield and Leeds (Great
Nortbcni> 10 tiaine dally (Bte. 38). To
Sbeffleld (MkHaad, 19 m., vid Svinfeon and
Itfasboroogb; (Bte. 45), 6 txaina daily. To
Manchester and Uverpool (S. Torksbtre and
Mancbeater Um, wid Barasky and Penistone)
(Kte. 44), 4 tnins daily. To Sbeffield (Si
Yorksblre, via WonbweU and Ghapeltown.
27 m.) (Bte. 46), 4 trains daily.
JDoncaster rPop. in 1881, 21,180),
one of the cleanest and pleasantest
towns in Yorkshire, occupies the site
of a Boman station on the great
road from Lindum (Iiinooln) to
Ebi^acom (York). There was a
feny here across the river Bon
(which risw near Penistone, and
flopws into the Homber near Goole,
see Bte. 44).
The chief points of interest in Don-
esster are the Ckuitdtse (ail modem),
the Bac8<^i0iir90, and, for those who
B 2
Souie 1. — London to Torh-^Donedaier.
care for maehineiy, the '*pUmt^ of
the Great Northem Bailwaj.
Except during the race-week (in
Septemoer), whoitiietown is thronged
with vigiUm, and enonnoos bqxob are
demanded for lodginffs, Doncaster is
aniet and attractiTe. Ae movement of
be place is chiefly due to the weekly
corn-market, which is one of the
most important in the North. There
are few agricnltural districts in Eng-
land richer or more prodnctive thui
that of which Doncaster is the centre.
*8L Oeorge% the parish church of
Doncaster, whose bells sounded so
pleasantlj in the eari of Dr. Dove,
was completely burnt down (Feb. 28,
1853) ; the cause being, as usual, a
neglected flue. The old church had
nouing remarkable in its architec-
tural character except the central
tower, which was finished about 1425,
and was inferior to none in the king-
dom for accurate proportion and grace
of outline. It was the celebrity of
this tower that caused the rest(Mution
of the ch. to be taken up as a matter
of more than local interest Nearly
80,0002. were subscribed at once, and
10,0002. more afterwards. The work
was placed in the hands of Sir G. G,
Scott, whose reputation with posterity
may safely rest on this noble buildine.
The general character of the cL
is Dec. The greatest defect is per-
haps the apparent shortnesB of the
nave and transepts for theur heieht ;
for although the eh. is in both uiose
portions considerably longer than the
old one, it looks shorter, in consequence
of the Tooia being 75 ft high, whilst
those of the former buil£ng were
flat This mat height of the nave
and chancM roof, produces within
(as in St John's Chapel at Cam-
bridge, also the work of Sir O. O. Scott)
an effect of real grandeur.
The present durch may be sh<»rilv
described as a larse cross di., witti
an internal area dt 12,600 feet ; the
length of the whole inside ia 169, of
the transepts 92, and of the nave 91
ft ; the width of the nave and aisles 65,
and of tiie nave proper and of the
transepts and chancel 27 ft There is
on each side of the chancel a chapel
25 feet wide, one of which, formerly
called the Seaion Chapd, was rebuilt
in a more decorated style than the
rest of the ch. at the sole cost of
Mr. Fonnan, of Pipbrook House,
Dorking, the representative of an old
Doncaster fanmy. It is also the
baptistery of the ch., containing a
large and handsome font of serpentine
marble, the gift of Professor Selwyn.
The tower is 170 ft. high, and (except
that of Boston, Lincdnshire) is the
highest central tower of a parish ch.
in England (it is exceeded by some
cathedral towers). Being 84 ft square
outside, it is proportioniSely wide.
The E. window is one of the
largest in England, being 48 ft high
and 22} wide. It has 8 lights and
a wheel above them 15 ft. in diameter.
It is filled with painted fflass by Hard-
man (representing the Passion of
our liOTd, and the events before it,
beginning with the Entry into Jeru-
salem), in memory of the Bev. Dr.
Sharpe, who was vicar and curate,
and a schoolmaster of great reputa-
tion at Dmicastor. (His coped tomb-
stone, of very eood design, should be
remarked, in uie churdi-yd.). The
decoration of the chancel, including
an ekiborato reredos, gilt and coloured,
altar rails, and gas standards, was in
1869 'the grat^ and lovine gift^of
88 of those eraduates of Oxf om and
Cambridge who here prepared them-
selves for holy orders under the in-
struction and guidance of the very
Rev. Dean Vaughan, D.D., former
vicar of Doncaster.' Almost all the
windows in the church (except those
of the clerestory) have been filled with
stained glass ; but as various artists .
have beoi employed, the effect, as is
usually the case under such circum-
stances, is anytiiing but satisfactory.
The West window, representing a
*tree of Jesse,' is by Ward Ofid
\Hugk$$, The window of the JV,
Bauie 1. — Doncaster : Ohurdtea.
Trcuuept (the TiBusfigiiration and
the coring of the demoniac below) is
a ironderfel prodvetimi by O^Oon-
wiTy — Bafiaetle'a picture having ang-
gesled some of the details. The
window 6t the 8. Trame-gi is bj
ClafUm and BdL The ghras in the
Sealon cbqiel is by TTatfes; and at
the end of each naye aisle is a win-
dow by Gapronnier of Bmasels,
wfaoae opaque glass has much the
effect €i a oolouiid blind. The pnlpit
woidd appear enonnons in a ch. of
ordinary aise, being part of a circular
arcade of 8 ft. diameter, consisting of
10 aichea with marble shafts, on a
roond base, ornamented with iron
hands, like a piece of a Nonnan pillar
5 ft thick. The general design of it
and of tiie pnlpit itself was nven by
Sir. E. B. iSemson Beckett, Bt., who
soggested Tarloos other features in the
ch., and especially the sinking of the
windows deeper nom tiie oatside than
hadbeen previonsly done in any modem
cfa. The tower contains a fine peal
of 8 bells, also dengned by him on
the scale of the Westminster clock
bdis (as described in the 4th edition
of his 'Bndimentary Treatise on
docks and Bells*). The medallions
and senlptnre throngfaoot the ch.
are bj Phillips of London.
The organ of the old ch. had been
celefanted in its time; and the new
one promises to be still more famous.
It is built by 11 Schultae, of Paulin-
zdie, near Erfurt, and is said to be
the largest ch. organ in England,
except that of Ywk Minster; con-
taining 96 stops and above 6000 pipes,
and coyering a space of about 900
square ft in the N. chapel. It has
12 bellows, not worked by hands, as
osnal, hot by feet, in which way a
man can exert nearly double the
power with less ibtigue. Three men
out blow the fuU organ. But the
sweetness of the tone is a far more
yainnhle miali^ of this organ than
its sise, and it is soyoiced as not to be
tQ9 kflkl for the ch. The whole cost
of the organ, apart from the screen <»r
case, was 25002., for which a separate
subscription was raised.
** The whole cost of this noble ch.
with all its appendages, is stated
to be within 45^0002., for its size and
architectural character a singularly
cheap building, a fact which is not
without imp^tance in these da3r8,
when there is a srowing disposition to
regard mere hei^t and ornamentation
as the only sources of architectural
effect*'--^. B, D.
*8i, James* 8 was (through the
influence of the late chairman of the
Qreat Northern Railway Ckimpany)
built by the subscriptions of some
of tiie shareholders for the families
of their workmen, who haye in-
creased the population of the town
by about 4000. This ch. consists of
two nearly equal naves 118 ft. long
and 52 ft wide, together with what
is only a bell-turret in architectural
desien, but in most modem chs.
would pass for a tower and spire, —
in height 120 ft — arising out of the
roof of the minor nave. The roof
is 53 ft high, and the walls are
32 ft, and none of them less than
3 ft thick. This ch. is remarkable
for the boldness and massiveness of
all its parts, and the deep setting
and thick mullions of the windows.
The general design of St James's
ch., and many of the details of
construction, were supplied by Sir
£. B. Denison Beckett, who undertook
the management of the building, with
G. Gilbert Scott as architect, at the
request of the Great Northern Bail-
way Board. The whole cost of this
ch., previous to an alteration of the
spire made by Sir Ed. Beckett at his
own expense, was only 50002. It is
buUt of Ancaster stone.
The thud ch. in Doncaster is
ChriH Chwrd^ at the S. end of tiie
town, which was founded by the
late Mr. Jairatt, a retired iron-
BofUe 1. — JOHncfiHer Baces :■ Orafnmar School.
maater, iu 1829. It was bult bj a
local aidutoet, and is not inferior
to the average of so-ealled Gotiue
chs. of that period. The E. window
is filled with stained glass by
Capnmnier.
Doncaster is best known to the
world lioni its JBoees, which take
place annually in September, and
last 4 days. They are among the
most celebrated in England^ attract-
ing a vast assemblage of persons,
and contributing not a little to the
prosperity of the town. At ^idiat
time races were first established here
is quite uncertain, but they had
probably been in existence for some
time in 1708, when the first men-
tion of them occurs. They did not
become famous, however, until the
St. Leger stakes were estabfished
in 1778. These were named after
their principal founder, Col. St.
Leger, who lived near the town;
and the race for them is at Don-
caster what that for the Derby is at
Epsom, or tiiat for the Queen's
Plate at Ascot. The first winner
of the St. Leger was a horse of the
Miarquis of wckingham's, rejoicing
in the incomprehensible name m
''Allabaeulia.** The JRaeecoune is
about a mile from the town, on the
old London road. There is no view
from it, but the scene from the
Grand Stand is worth a visit, and
during the races it is wonderfully
fine and animated. The Stand was
built in 1826 at the expense of the
Corponttion, who contribute 880L
yearly in stakes and pUtes to be run
for, and draw -from the stand, a
rental of 2<K)0{. per ann. The cde-
brated achievements of Eclipse irtlte
performed on this course, which is
2 m. in- circuit. The St Leger Race
is run on a Wednesday, and attracts
thousands of visitors from all parts of
the United Kiuffdom ; 100 trains and
enffines erowd the Bly. station.
On the left of the station extend
th^ sheds and f actocies of the rly.
"pfant," of which (for the Gt.
ITorthem) this is the principal depdt.
There are otbos (secondary) at
Boston and Peterborough. AJl the
carriages used on the Great Northern
Ely. are made here, besides tiie
engines. A great central engine of
SO-hmse power is the chief motive
foroe; and Nasmyth's hammer, cir-
cular saws, &c, may be seen in full
operation. A small saw used for
cutting breaks is especially curious.
About 1500 workmen are employed
here.
On Hobcroes Hill, a litUe S. of
the town« are the remains of an
ancient cross (removed hare from
the town in 1798), with the in-
scription—
•* loest est U crulee Ote J) TilU
A kl atane Defl en fan meici. Amen."
Otho de Tilli was seneschal of Con-
isborough in the reigns of Stephen
and Henry XL
*( The whole town of Doncaster,''
Leland, writing in Henry
,*s time, ^ is built of wood, and
the houses be slated; yet there is
great plenty 6f stone thereabout.''
There are now few old houses — and
little even which can be assigned to
the time of Dr. Dove of the *the
Doctor.* The Town-hall was built
in 1744, by Paine, arch., and improfved
in 1800.
The Ctmamor Sckboly near Christ
Gh., though founded 1558, bad fallen
into disuse, until resusoitated by
Bev. Dr. Vanghan and the Town
Council. The donations of private
benefactors have endowed it with
numerous exhibitions at the imiver-
sities, and supplied fnnds for the erec-
tion of the handsome St^vool BuiWmg*,
The Bev. Mr. Cartwright, inventor
of the power-loom, finding no one
at Manchester willing to sive a trial
to his discovery, established at his
own cost (1766) a manufsctoty and
a weaving-mill at Dmcfcatsr, the
^EL'i
Bouie l.—Donea8ter : History.
raacbmeiy Ia whkh was at fint
moved hj a bull.
ThejprofitBof thetown mills, near
the bndge over the I>6n, were an-
deotly asngiied for the special ex-
pensea of the major; hence the old
' Tlw Doocaater Kayor.be atta in bto chair,
ffia mills 1]»y laerrUj go :
Hla ooaedoth aldsa 'trtth drinklBg of wine.
And Ihe soot la in his great toe.*
Hutiory. .
Boman antiquities have been
foBod from time to time at Don-
caster. It is supposed to occnpj the
Site of the Soman *<Dannm.''^ The
Northnmbrian longs had a '^viHa^
here.
The position of Doncaster on
the line of the great North road
has rendered it more than once a
place of histoncal importance. The
Nofftfamen frequently plundered it.
Maledm of Scotland did homage here
for Cmnberland to Henry II. in 1157.
Thomas Earl of Lancaster, the great
faanm of Pontefract, assembled his ad-
herents here in the winter of 1321-2,
beloie the zisinfl; which ended in the
h«tUe of Boron^bridge (see Bte. 19\
Inl 1470 occurred fiie remarkable
rising in Lincolnshire, the object of
wfak£ was to place Clarence on the
throne instead of his brother, Ed-
ward IV. Sir Bobert Welles and Sir
Thomas Delalannde headed the in-
fnil^tB, who were defeated at £r-
ping^iam, in Rutland. The king
(who in spite of his promise had be-
headed Lonl WeUes, father of Sir
Bobert) then returned to Doncaster,
where he caused Sir Bobert Welles
and Sir Balph Grey to be beheaded
in fhe Ma»ei-place. During the
» POgnmage of Grace " in 1586, Don-
caster was Hie scene of two remark-
able interviews between the insurgent
leadecB and the heads of the royal
army. Thia army, under Lord Shrews-
hory and the Duke of Norfolk, was in
Dooeaster, ead the bridge across the
Don (whose successor still occupies
the same place, on the N. side of the
town) had been fortified. Aske and
the insurgents had advanced from
Pontefract to Scawsby Lees, about
3 m. N. of the river A battle seemed
imminent ; but, after some discussion,
a conference between certain of the
leaders on either side took place on
the bridge (Oct. 26, 1536), Robert
Aske himself remaining on the bank
of the Don, ''tiie whole host standing
with him in perfect army." It was
then agreed that the petition of the
insurgents should he carried to the
king, and that the musters on either
side should he disbanded. A second
meeting between Aske and the king's
commissioners took place in Decem-
ber, when Norfolk announced the
king's pardon to the insurgents ; and
Aske, ^in the presence of all the
lords, pulled os his badge, crossed
with the five wounds, and in a sem-
blable manner did aU the lords there,
and all others there present, saying
all these words: *We will wear no
badge nor figure but the badge of
our sovereign lord.' " — {Fnmd^ Hist.
Eng. iii. ch. 13. For a eeneral sketch
of the rising see in^rodO
During the ci^l war Charles I.
was frequently at Doncaster, and the
Puritan Earl of Manchester made it
his head-quarters after Manton Moor.
In Oct. 1648, when Pontefract Castle
was the only royal earrison in the
North, a small party nom it attacked
and killed the Parliamentarian General
Bainsborough, in the midst of his
troops at I^ncaster. Sir Maimaduke
Langdale was a prisoner at Notting-
ham, and the object of the royalists
was to get possession of Bainsborough,
so as to effect an exchange. They
were nearly successful; but in tkte
struggle Bainslxmniffh was severely
wounded, and fell dead; his assail-
ants got safely back to Pontefract. A
house opposite to the shambles is still
pointed out as the scene of the
attempt.
8 Boute 1. — Dancaster : Oarr Home — ArTuey Church.
A very pleasant exclusion may be
made from Doncaster to Conings-
borough (kuOe (5^ m. S.W., where
is a station on tiie Midland RI7.).
The castle itself is of great interest,
and the scenery on the Don is y&ry
pleasing (see Bte. 40). A drive of
about 10 UL from Doncaster, along
the great Northern road, wiU bring
the tonrist to Bamsdale, the an-
cient hannt of Bobin Hood. (See
Hte. 2.)
[Oorr HouBSt 1 sl from Don-
caster, on the northern edge of
PoUeiy Cam, was for manj ae-
rations the residence of the Chuders
familr. Here the famous horse
called Bay Ghildera, or the iljing
Ghilders— -in his day, and lone after,
the fleetest racer known in fngland
— ^was bred by Leonard Ghilders,
who died in 1748. Pottery Carr
is an extensive level, of about 4000
acres, lying 8. of the racecourse.
It was formerly a complete morass,
as the name "Oarr" indicates; but
toward the end of the last cent, an
Act was obtained for draining and
allotting it, and it is now valuable
ground.]
For several years the main line
followed hv G. K. R. trains to Tork
was by Knat^nglej Junction and
Sherbum. The rail from Enot-
tingl^ belonged to the York and
N. Midland Company, but the Gt
Northern had the rirht of passing
over it. However a snorter Ime has
been opened by the N. Eastern
Company, but really for the con-
venience of the Gt Northern, which
has the privilege of usin^ it, passing
to Tork by Selby. This consider-
ably shortens the distance, and is
now used as the direct route from
London to Tork. (For the line by
JBjMittMi^Isv. see Bte. 2.)
Leaving JJoncaster by the railway,
Owworth Eoim (B. H. Wrightson,
Esq.) is seen 1. The river Don (which
was made navigable to Fishlake in
the reign of George U.) is theai
crossed ; and we soon reach — ' 1
(Near Shafthohne the N. Eastern
Bly. turns out of Gt. Northern) |
158} m. Arlc^ey Stat. The Ch,
(seen rt. of the stat) is interesting,'
and has been restored at a cost of
8000Z., under Sir O. O. 8eoU (re-
opened July, 1870). It is for the most
part late IVans., with traces of an ear-
lier (Norm.) building. The central
tower (Trans.) has a low spire above
it, which may possibly be ol the same
date. The parapet and pinnacles of
the tower have been added. The
mouldings of the tower arches and
their piers, with double shafts and
capitals, are very good, and tho
view of the group from the W.
end excellent. Bemark a curious
pierced panel of stone on the S.
side of the chancel. It now opens
through the thickness of the w^
to the vestty; but the wall was
originally external. On the N. side,
low down, is k somare hollow in
the exterior wall. The pulpit dates
1684, and the font-cover 1662. The
font was once attached to last pier
on the S. side of the nave. There
are some remains of good heraldic
glass in the windows. The anns
in the W. window are apparently
those of Henrv Duke of Lancaster,
died 1861. The ancient lords of
Arksey were the Newmarches, the
Tibetots, the Scropes, and tho
Windhams. In 1654 the manor
was sold to Bryan Cooke of Don-
caster, who left by will money for
the erection of a hospital for 12
poor persons, each of whom re-
ceives 52. a year. This hospital,
with a rather picturesque gateway,
stands opposite the ch.
L of the stat. is Arlaey Pool, a
deep hollow in the nu^niesian lime-
stone, well stored with &h.
[The ch. of Adunch4e"8lr6ti (the
name marks its position, dose to
Boute 1. — Hampole — TemplehirH—Selhy.
9
tfaD great North road, here a branch
c: the ancient Ennyn Street), 2^ m.
N.W. of Arksey (and on the line
of the Great N<^6m Blj. between
Brjocaster and Wakefield; see Rte.
^}, is S. fi. and early Dec, and
hae been well restored. The tower
i% open to the nave. A singular
half -arch connects the E. E. chancel
vith the Dec naye. In the Waudi-
ngtoQ Chapel (N. of the chancel)
aie some incised slabs (16th cent)
ill altar-tombs. The Washingtons
were lords of the manor from the
3iiddle of the 16th cent, to the
leginnii^ of the 18th ; bat althongh
tiidition has connected the Ameri-
tm family with one of the northern
caanties, there is no proof what-
erer of its relation to the Washing-
tons of Adwick. In the reisn of
Heniy IL the ch. at AdwicE was
granted to the nuns of Hampole,
who possessed it till the Dissolation,
when all their interest passed to
the SaTiles of Methley. On the
pablication of Spelnians <De non
Temerandis Eoelesiisy* Mrs. Anne
Savile, daughter of the then pro-
phetic-, was so mnch struck by it,
that she purchased the "rectory'*
from her father (at a cost of 9002.),
and settled it on the cure for ever.
2 m. N.W. of Adwick-le-Street,
and on the road from Doncaster to
W^efield, is HaimpoU^ where was
a priory for Cistercian nuns, founded
by William de Clarefai, about 1170.
At this place liyed Bichard RoUe,
the *'henuit of Hampole,^ one of
the most popnhyr ** divines" of the
Uth cent^ His books, writtmi in
rbrme, for the *' unlered and lewed,"
iffoid remarkable examples of the
Northumbrian dialect One of the
most important, the ** Pricke of Ckm*
scienee, was edited by Mr. Morris,
tD 1863, for the Philolog. Soc All
that is reaUy known about Bichard
Koile will be found in the preface
to certain of his English Prose
Tnatises, edited (1866) for the Early I
Eng. Text Soc. by the Bev. G.
Perry. He was bom at Thornton,
near Think; and instead of having
been an Augnstinian friar, or a
Doctor of Divinity, as is generally
asserted, he was not in holy orders,
but entirely an irregular teacher,
and in a great measure self-in-
structed. He died in 1849, and was
buried in the Priory at Hampole.]
From Arksey the railway traverses
a level district of dykes and drains,
in which are two small ttaiioM at
Jfoss and JSolne— (f oZna was an
ancient name of this whole district,
comprising all the low-lving lands
between the Aire and the Don) —
then crossing the Knottin^ley and
Goole Canal it reaches tne little
station of Het^, Beyond this it
encounters the river Aire, winding
through the marshes toward its
junction with the Ouse, N. of
Ooole; and on the 1 bank of the
river is the station of TemplehurU,
Here was a small preceptory of the
Templars, the sito of which is now
occupied by a modem famihouse.
Templehurst was granted by Ed. HI.
to Sir John Darcy; and here lived
his descendant, liord Darcy, at the
tune of the Pilgrhnage of Ghrace,
1536-87. He sympathised with
Aske, and played into his hands.
(See Fronde, vol. iii.) (For the
church of PfrWti, probably built by
the Templars of Hurst, see Bte. 2.
It is best reached from Knottins^y
or Burton Salmon station.) The
line then passes through a some-
what more wooded, but still level,
district ; and crossing the Selby
Canal, it reaches gtaJtUm of Sdby,
No objects of interest to the tourist
are passed between Doncaster and
Selby.
174i m. StSby Junct Stat. {Inn:
Londesborough Arms, near the ch.).
Selby {SdAi, the "seal's house,"
according to the chronicler of tho
8 Boute 1. — Doncaster : Cart Home — Arhsey Ohurch.
A very pleasant exciiision may be
made from Doncaster to Coninga-
borough (kuOe (5} m. S.W., where
is a station on tite Midland RI7.).
The castle itself is of great interest,
and the scenery on the Don is very
pleasing (see Kte. 40). A drive of
about 10 m. from Doncaster, along
the great Northern road, wiU bring
the tourist to Bamsdale, the an-
cient haunt of Bobin Hood. (See
Hte. 2.)
[Garr Souast 1 nL from Don-
caster, on the northern edge of
PoUmy Carr, was for manj fene-
rations the residence of the Chflders
family. Here the famous hone
called Bay Childers, or the Flying
ChilderB-— in his day, and Un^ after,
the fleetest racer known in £igland
— ^was bred by Leonard GhilderB,
who died in 1748. Pottory Garr
IS an extensive level, of about ^DKM)
acres, lying 8. of the racecourse.
It was formerly a complete momss,
as the name '^Oarr** indicates; but
toward the end of the last cent an
Act was obtained for dxainmff and
allotting it, and it is now vuuable
ground.]
For several years the main line
followed ^ 0. N. B. trains to York
was by KnxMiaglej Junction and
Sherbum. The rail from Knot-
tingle^ belonged to the York and
N. Midland Company, but the Gt
Northern had the ririit of passing
over it However a shorter Ime has
been opened by the N. Eastern
Company, but really for the con-
venience of the Qt Northern, which
has the privilege of usin^ it, passing
to York by Selby. This consider-
ably shortens the distance, and is
now used as the direct route from
London to York. (For the line by
Knottmgltihsee Rte. 2.)
Leaving Doncaster by the railway,
Owworth Houae (B. 6. Wrightson,
Esq.) is seen 1. The river Don (which
was made navigable to Fishlake in
the reign of George n.) is then
crossed ; and we soon reach —
(Near Shafthohne the N. Eastern
Bly. turns out of Gt Northern)
158} m. Af^aey Stat, The Ch.
(seen rt of the stat.) is interesting,
and has been restored at a cost of
30002., under Sir O. G. ScoU (re-
opened Juhr, 1870). It is for the most
part late Irans., with traces of an ear-
lier (Norm.) building. The central
tower (Trans.) has a low spire above
it, which may possibly be of the same
date. The parapet and pinnacles of
the tower have been added. The
mouldings of the tower arches and
their piers, with double shafts and
capitals, are very good, and the
view of the group from the W.
end excellent. Remark a curious
pierced panel of stone on the S.
side of the chancel. It now opens
through the thickness of the wall
to the vestty; but the wall was
originally external On the N. side,
low down, is k souare hollow in
the exterior wall. \die pulpit dates
1684, and the font-cover 1662. The
font was once attached to last pier
on the S. side of the nave. There
are some remains of good heraldic
^lasB in the windows. The arms
m the W. window are apparently
those of Henry Duke of Lancaster,
died 1361. The ancient lords of
Arksey were the Newmarches, the
Tibetots, the Scropes, and the
Windhams. In 1654 the manor
was sold to Bryan Cooke of Don-
caster, who left by will money for
the erection of a hospital for 12
poor persons, each of whom re-
ceives SL a year. This hospital,
with a rather picturesque gateway,
stands opposite the ch.
L of the stat. is Arhsey Pool, a
deep hollow in the magnesian lime-
stone, well stored with &h.
[The ch. of AdwUMe-Strmt (the
name marks its position, dose to
lUmle 1. — Hampcle — Templehur$t — Setby.
9
the great North road, here a branch
of the ancient Ennjn Street), 2| m.
N.W. oi Arksej (and on the line
of the Great Nco^ttieni Ely. between
Boncaater and Wakefield; see Rte.
28), ia £. £. and early Dec., and
has been well restored. The tower
is open to the nave. A singular
half -areh connects the E. £. chancel
with the Dec nave. In the Wash-
ington Chapel (N. of the chancel)
are some incised slabs (16th cent)
on altar-tombs. The Washingtons
were lords of the manor from the
middle of the 16th cent to the
beginning of the 18th ; bat althongh
tradition has connected the Ameri-
can family with one of the northern
counties, there is no proof what-
erer of its relation to the Washing-
tons of Adwick. In the reign of
Henry IL the ch. at Adwick was
granted to the nuns of Hampole,
who poBMSsed it till the Dissolation,
when all their interest passed to
the Sariles of Methley. On the
pablication of &>ehnan8 *De non
Temerandis Ecdesiis,' Mrs. Anne
Savile, daughter of the then pro-
prietor, was so much stmck by it,
that she purchased the *' rectory"
from her father (at a cost of 9002.),
and settled it on the cure for ever.
2 m. N.W. of Adwick-le-Street,
and on the road from Doncaster to
Wakefield, is EampoU, where was
a prioiy for Cistercian nuns, founded
by William de Claiefai, about 1170.
At this place liyed Bicbard BoUe,
the ''heratit of Hampole," one of
the most popular *' divines" of the
14th cent His books, written in
rfavme, for the **unlered and lowed,"
4nord remazkable examples of the
Northumbrian dialect One of the
most iinportant, the '* Pricke of Con-
sdeoce,'^was edited by Mr. Morris,
m 1663, for the Philolog. Soc All
that is really known about Richard
BoDe will be found in the preface
to eertain of his English Prose
Treatises, edited (1866) for the £arly
Eng. Text Soc by tiie Bev. G.
Perry. He was bom at Thornton,
near Thirsk; and instead of having
been an Angostinian friar, or a
Doctor of Divinity, as is generally
asserted, he was not in holy orders,
but entirely an irregular teacher,
and in a great measure self-in-
structed. He died in 1349, and was
buried in the Priory at Hampole.]
From Arksey the railway traverses
a level district of dykes and druns,
in which are two small stoltons at
Jfoss and BaXne—(Balne was an
ancient name of this whole district,
comprising all the low-lyinf lands
between the Aire and the Don) —
then crossing the Knottin^ey and
Goole Canal it reaches tne little
station of Heek, Beyond this it
encounters the river Aire, winding
through the marshes toward its
junction with the Ouse, N. of
Ooole; and on the 1 bank of the
river is the station of TempUhunt,
Here was a small preceptoiy of the
Templars, the site of wnich is now
occupied by a modem farmhouse.
Templehurst was granted by Ed. UI.
to Sir John Darcy; and here lived
his descendant, Lord Darcy, at the
time of the Pilgrimage of Grace,
1536-87. He sympathised with
Aake, and played into his hands.
(See Froude, vol. iii.) (For the
church of P^r&tn, probably built by
the Templars of Hurst, see Bte. 2.
It is best reached from Enottinsdey
or Burton Salmon station.) The
line then passes through a some-
what more wooded, but still level,
district ; and crossing the Selby
Canal, it reaches station of 8dby.
No objects of interest to the tourist
are passed between Doncaster and
Selby.
174i m. SeOfy Junct Stat (Jnn:
Londesborottgh Aims, near the ch.).
Selby {SeUibi, the "seal's house,"
according to the chronicler of * ^
10
BaiUe 1.— London to Torh^Selby.
Abbey (see pott), £ram the nuiaben
of seals which were foimerlj taken
here) is a town of some siie
rPop. 6083), on the rt bank of the
Cose, here a broad and deep river,
navigable for steamess and other
craft ; crossed hy two bridges,
and connected hy a canal with the
Aire. The town has flax scntching-
mills, tope-works, and a boat and
barge building-yard. Many hands are
employed in making of twine and shoe-
maker's thread. &lby, besides being
on the direct line between London
and York (from which latter plaoe
it is distant about i hr. by railway),
has lines connecting it with Leeds
(Bte. 42) on one hand, with Hull
(Rte. 5) on the other, and again with
Market Weighton (Bte. 8) on the
rly. between xork and Beverley. The
canal whidi connects Selby with that
between Knottingley and Goole,
passes from Haddlesey on the latter
canal to Selby, but it is now little
used.
The Ouse at 8elby is crossed
by a railway bridge of cast iron,
founded on piers driven through a
quicksand into a bed of clay. It
weighs 590 tons, and has an open-
ing arch in the centre, allowing
m^ted vessels to pass. The river
is navigable for steamers hence to
York. The town bridge, a little
above the raUway-bridge, was bmlt
early in the present century. It
is of wood, for the proper selec-
tion of which the engineer and
one of the principal promoters of
the bridge visited 13 counties
in Bngland. The ancient feny
>xroesed about 50 yds. higher up the
Ousie.^.
Selby -^ not mentioned, except in-
cidentally, vjin the Domesday Survey;
but the foUbt^tion charter granted
by the Gonqne^ apparently refers
to it as a royal N^nanor. According
to an sneitot trat^tion, Matilda was
delivered here of \]ber yoansesi son,
Hennr the Beaudertj, the onry ome of
the ConQiwrac's chiliijbnn bcm after
his acquisition of the English crown,
toward September 1068, Siortly after
the first submission of York (see
jMsi) Freeman, Norm. Conq. iv. 231,
suggests the bare possibility that
'* William may have brooght his wife
into Northumberiand, as Edward
brought hSs wife kito Wales, in order
that the expected Ath^ing might be
not only an Englishman but a native
of that part of England which had
cost his father most pains to win.**
As in many similar cases, a room
was long pointed out at S^by as
that in which Henry was bom, but
an inscription on a beam indicated
that this chamber had been built by
Abbot Deepmg, early in the 16th
century. ^This room has disap-
peared.) liiere is, moreover, no men -
tion of the iHrth in the remarkable
'Histoiy'of the monastexy (printed
in LdAsy *Nova Bibliotheca Manu-
seriptomm,' vol. i.V This was writ-
ten bv a monk of S^by, drc 1184.
The foundation of the Benedictine
monastery, about which the town of
Selby grew up, and the church of
which is still its great glory, is there
told as follows: —
A certain monk of Auxerre, named
Benedict, warned in vision by St.
Qermanus, fled from his convent by
night, carrying with him the finger
of the saint. At Salisbuiy he was
received by an Englishman, who
provided him with a golden reUqnary
(afterwards shown at Selby) for his
treasure. He then took ship at
«Lnma" (Lyme Begisf) and sailed
thence, enterine the Hnmber and
passing up the Ouse till he recognised
the spot SI Qermanus had shown hiin
in the vision, lliis was Selby, where
he landed, set up a cross on the river
bonk, and then constmeted a small
abode for himself, under an oak of
vast siae, **que a patriotis strihac
vocabatur" Q»erhape a misreading
for sMrJUMsshire oak). This was in
1068 (?), when, says the chronicler,
not a single monk was to be found
thiooghoot all Yorkdute, efwing to
Btmie l.-^Sb% : The Abbey Okurch.
11
the devastations of the Nort&nien
and off tbe Ooiiqneror. Hvgh, the
KonoMi Sbeiiff (Vieeeomes) of
ToiUiiEe, pamohg in a boat on
the OoBe^ ssw the ero», and flought
BenediBt, -wbom he foiind in pnjer
before the vdic He locked gia-
cieadT on the monk, and left his
teat ne a temfoaaty iheltet for the
'-gkirkwB digitna,* aendlng after-
wuda eaipentks to bnild a chapel.
At Hn^*8 tnggestion, "Benedict
then wc^ to the Conqueror, and
ohteined a grant of that portion
of the TOjal manor on which he had
■ettled. Wooden oells were built,
and maaj brethren assembled. Bene-
diei WM abbot for 27 Tears. All the
JMiMwig* |m to this time had been
of wood. The second abbot, Hugh,
who ndad 26 Tears (1097-1128) began
a cfaoreh and monastie btiildnigs of
stone, somewhat farther from the
rirer. **The monastery,'' says its
chnnueler, *' stands fairly there; is
tf%4Aymhme visible from the roads;
and tlie river brings the commerce
of aU parts past it."' The 'History'
ends in 1184, and no boilding is
mentioned in it after this of Hngh^
Many English kings, however, and a
kmg' string of benefaetots, enriched
the neweonvent greatly; and Pope
Alezaader H. (1076) erected Selby
hrto a mStied abb^. (The only
other mitrsd abbey N. ol the Trent
was St Mary's Torit.) The annual
Tslne, at the Biasohrtion, wae 729Z.,
making Selby the monastic hoose of
the third importance in Yoribshire,
the two wfaidi exceeded it in revenue
being Ponntains and St Mary's of
York. The site, with much of the
proper^ of the convent, was then
granted to Sir Ralph Sadler, and has
sinee passed tibrongh many hands.
It is now the property of Lord Lon-
desboniag^
The JOtbejf Ckm6h, made the pa-
rochial chnxeh of Selby by James I. in
1618, is the most perfect monastic
chmch Tsaniaing in Yorkshire, and
one of which any county might well
be proud. The plan ^ompnses nave,
choir, and Lady-chapd, a central tower
between nave and choir, and a north
transept with eastern* aisle. (The S.
transept was dsstroyed by iiie fall of
the central tower^ in 1600.) The
length of tiie entire church is 296 ft. ;
the width (which is the same in both
nave and choir) is 50 ft. The aisles
have square terminations eastward,
parallel with the eastern termination
of the Lady -ehap^. The nave is late
Norm, and £. B. The choir and
Lady-chapri are Dec The Norman
portions, no doubt, belong to the
ch. b^gan by Abbot Hu^, as we
have seen, between 1097 and 1123.
They are thus of the same date as
Durham (109^1128) and Norwich
(1091-1119).
The W. front is divided into 3
parts by narrow E. E. buttresses.
The lower part of each division is
Norm.; the upper late S. E. (eirc.
1220). The side divisions are, in
fact, flanking towers, which rise
above the level of the aisle roof,
but were, perhaps, never completed
The Norm, portol recedes in 5
orders, with enriched arohes. The
composition of the £. fi< windows
above is unusual (rather foreign
than English), and deserves special
notice. The central window has
been filled with Perp. tracery.
Within, the nave opens very finety— -
lofty, massive, and solemn. This
part of the church has been rtetored,
1872-78, under the care of 8h QH-
hert BeotL) The first four bays
(from the central tower^ are Norm. ;
the four western, Transition, passing
into decided E. E. in the upper por-
tions. The Norm, nave alternated
with massive piers in long paxal-
lelograms, and circular cecums | one
of which is covered with a lattice-
work pattern, resembling^ Durham.
The arches are much enriched with
aigsag. The Norman trifbvium— «
broad circular arch, inc]udin|^ 2
amaller arches with a oential^ pier—
12
B(mU l.—Sdby: The Ahbey Ohurdi.
remains in the two last bars east-
ward, N. and S. (see post). The rest
of the triforium and all the clere-
story is £. £. In the western portion
of tiie nave the main arches are cir-
colar, marking their transitional chap
meter. The trifohom and clere-
story here deserve special attention.
On the N. side the k>w, massiye pier
dividing one bay of the trifonmn
^which extends back over the aisles,
forming in fact, an upper story, as
was usual in Norm, work of this
period) is set round with two rows of
shafts, one within the other, giving
an effect of great enrichment. The
clerestory on the S. side is of 8 arches
in each bay, that in the centre pierced
for light. Clustered shafts, with dog-
tooth in the angles, divide them. In
the spandrils alwve, the wall is pierced
with a trefoil. The corbels from
which the so-called vaulting-shafts
spring should be especially noticed.
The triforium and derestory on the
S. side differ from those N., and are
more purely £. £. On the N. side
the derestoiy has 2 arches, both
pierced for light. Remark also the
slender vaulting-shafts which rise
in front of eadi central triforium
pier, and are attached to it by a pro-
jecting ring of stone. The arrange-
ment of ue west end should be
noticed from within. A narrow-
pointed arch, pierced in two places
with a quatref oil, rises on either side
of the window, along the sill of which
there is a wall-passage.
A settlement of the great tower
piers seems to have taken place at
an early period, and the adjoining
bay of the nave was crushed m con-
sequence. The main arch, the tri-
forium, and the clerestory in this
bay, on eitiier side, are much bent
and twisted. The triforium was at
fint open with a central shaft, as in
the bay westward of it ; but after the
diq;»lacement, in ordw to strengthen
the work, the central shaft was re-
moved, cut in two, and the pieces
us^ as aiMwchedl side shafts for a
single arch, which was then filled
up. That this was done has been
proved during tiie restoration in 1873.
The clerestory was also walled up.
The ceiling of the nave, flat and
of wood, is ancient (temp. Hen. Vn.),
with very good carved bosses. The
roof, which was much lower than
that of the choir, remains over this
ceiling, and above again has been
constracted an entirely new roof, of
the ancient pitch (as shown by the
mouldings on the tower)— a vory
great improvement to the exterior of
tiie church.
The flooring of the nave has been
lowered to its original level, and the
bases of the great piers are now well
disclosed— very massive, squared, and
of unusual heiffhi
The wall of the »tUh naoe aisle
had been thrown much out of the
perpendicular, either by the fall of
the transept in 1680, or the removal
of the ctoiBter which adjoined it.
The vaulting of the aisle had con>
sequentiybeoi almost destroyed. The
wail has been rebuilt, and it was
found that it had been raised entirely
on balks of timber — great squared
trunks of oak trees. The vaulting
has been carefully restored, and the
old stones have been worked in
wherever it was possible. The win-
dows are restored after the old i^pe,
and are of late Dec character, lliree
of them have been filled with stained
glass by Hardman.
. The glass in the great west win*
dow is by HeaUm and Buder,
In the N. aisle the original vault-
ing remains; and here is a plain
circular Norm, font, of dark mimble,
vrith a lofty oak canopy. The win-
dows are Dec. Two contain stained
glass by FatZss, and OZoyton and
BsSL In this aisle are the effigies
of an unknown knight (cross-leg^)
and lady, temp. Henry HI.
The 4 lofty tower-arches are late
Norman. The N. transept is Norm.,
with a Norm, window in the W.
Willi, and 9 late Dec. windows in t|ie
lUmte 1.— i^bOy : fke Abbey Okureh.
18
derertoty. (Th« apadMl eastern ter-
inmrfigm of tliis tnmsept has been
tneed.) The laige N. window is
Perp.« and three cnrione fisnres hare
been placed on the sill, — Mobm (with
bnms)* an Angd, and the Virgin.
Cnieee were removed from the dere-
stoiy of the choir.) The eastern
aiale ia of two bays, and is appa-
rentlj Dec, of the same period as
the adjoining portion of vie choir.
On tiie waO of the transept is a
cnnoQB inscription, recording uie gift,
br Bobert Anby, **pannicnkiriiis, atq.
de repnb. hnjus oppidi optime me-
ritBs,^of the peal of bells in 1614.
It woold appear (although there
is no record A it) that the original
Nonnan naye was partly destroyed,
from some unknown canse (probably
a fire), towards the end of the 12ui
eentory; that the rebnilding was
commenced on the N. side, toward
the W. ; that the S. side was finished
aomewhat later; and that the W.
firont (which is not exactly square
witli the naye) was completed last of
aD, some remaining portions of the
Norman front being worked into it.
The Qudr (of 6 bays beyond the
tower) was apparently built under
the rme of Abbot Jolm of Heslyng-
ton (1385-1341) and of his successor,
Gilfred of Gatesby (1841-1367). The
work is tbronghdot Decorated with a
miztare of flowing and geometrical
tracay, soch as is found also in the
ehnch of St Mary, Beverley. Nothing
can have exceeded the beauty of the
seolptnre throughout the choir when
peruct; but it has suffered greatly
nuBi neglect and wilful injury. The
pier ahafti and brackets, the arcade
under tiie aisle windows, and the
firfiage of the altar-acreen are all
more or less mined. The clustered
piers have capitals of leafage; and
at the intersection of the arches are
IfficketB of very good work, some
of them curiously grotesque, with
Toy rich canopies ab<nre them. From
the canopies spring vaaltinff-shafts,
teraunatmg in capitals of leafage.
The clerestory has a single window
in each bay, filled with flowing Dec.
tracery. The high sill of the win-
dow serves for the trif orium passage ;
the parapet in front of which, and
the canopies above the wall openings,
should be noticed. The vaulting is
of wood, Dec. (except that of the
first bay, which was destroyed when
the transept fell), and of the same
date as the choir; but that a stone
vault was at first intended is evident
from the projecting side ribs. Some
of the original stall-work also re-
mains. The aisle windows are pure
geometrical, with a stone bench and
arcade beneath them.
A very rich atone altar-screen
(Dec) divides the choir from the
Lady-chapel. The frieze and en-
richment on the E. front deserve
special notice. On the S. side are
four sedilia of unusual design and
equal height. The rest of the screen
has been lined (about 1790) with
dark wood.
The £. window of the Lady-chapel
is flamboyant. Under it is a tomb
with a shattered efllsy (temp. Edw. IL
(?), and on the sill is placed a piece
of sculpture, representing Samson
with the lion (from the clerestory
like that in the transept). Some
fragments of old glass remain in the
windows; and there are 3 windows
of modem glass by Fottss. Tomb-
skbs (incised), of Abbot Shefhume
(1368-1407) ; of Abbot Pygot (1407-
1429); of Abbot Caw (1429-1436);
of Abbot Lanorence Setbu (1486-
1504), with effigy ; and of Abbot J<^n
Barwiek (1522-1526), remain in the
choir, but are partially hidden under
From the S. choir aisle an early
Dec. chapel (circ 1250)— it has been
also called the chapter-house— of 2
bays opens. It is stone-^uilted ;
and in the S. wall is a remarkable
lavatory, with projecting trough and
8 triangular recesses a£>ve it The
double portal of this chapel should
be noticed. In the B. window is
14
JEUnUel^r-Selby: Ckurehei.
good
hfiBldio elasi, m*
<tt the clh
llj rich in stained
rung of the last
~ but
moved ^ram other
The ch. was
glass at the _
ceatai7,.>acooiding to Barton;
little now ramaii
The effect ol the whole choir is
singularly fine and impresBiye. It is
giMtly to be wished that modem
abominatione— tiie eoeeos or walls
separating the choir and its aiales
from the nave, the pews, and all
coated whitewash — should be re-
moved. But the ** restoration ^ of the
much-shattered sculpture would be
doubtful benefit.
On the exterior^ remark the tiaces
of the cloister on the S. side, llie
upper part of the central tower fell
in 1690, as has already been said.
The chapel or chapter-house on the
S. side ot the choir has a room over
it) now used as the grammar-school.
The compositicm (which may be
compared with the " Flemish chapel "
at S. Mary^B Beverley) should be
especially noticed. Here and at the
£. end are pierced pinnacles, reeem-
bling .those at Howden (eee Boute 5).
The panmets on the exterior of the
choir, with small stone figures rising
above them, and the graceful pin-
nacled buttreases dividing each bay,
should be remarked. On the N*
side of the nave is a fine Norman
portal, with a porch of Transition
character. This has been restored,
together with the whole exterior of
the nave.
There aie few remains of the mo-
nastic buildings. A '< painted cham-
ber'* in the vicar^ hoose was loxiff
pointed out as that in which Hen. L
was bom; but an inscription on a
beam proved (the chandier no longer
exists) that it was built by Abbot
Deeping at the beginning of the
16th cent. The great bam or **8pi-
carium" remains, with beams and
piUuB of massive oak, and is pro-
bably Dec. The walls are 3 ft
thick; the length, before the middle
part w^fl puUed down, was 818 ft
the widih 29 ft The eastem por-
tion is still used as a bam, the west-
em as a brewhouse* The principal
gateway, with the porter's lodge and
vaulted chambers above it were
standing in Burton's time (1758), but
have since been pulled down. The
arms of the Abbey, and now of the
town, were sa. 3 swans as.
The Cr<m in the market-place, a
short distance W. of the Abbey
church, is modem, and was raised
by the Petres, 1790. It is of un-
lunAlly good design for that date.
Among modem churches in Sdby
of some importance are 8t Jatneti\
built and endowed by J. Audus, "Baq.^
1866; and a Roonanist church, built
1856 (JTofwon of Batii, archil) by
the widow of the Hon. B. R. Petrc,
after whose death the Sdby estates
were bought by Lord Londesborough.
Church 3x0, on the rt. bank of the
Ouse, close above the town bridge, is
the site of the first monastic settle-
ment ; and a chapel ded. to S. Ger-
man long remained here. An ancient
cemetery was discovered here in 1857,
in which the coffins had been trunks
of oak, hollowed.
Selby was the scene of some skir-
mishing and of important military
openitions during the 7orkshir« cam-
laigns of 1643 and 1644. It was
leld for the Parliament by Lord
Fairfax (father of the famous Sir
Thomas) early in 1643, but was
placed in a critical position after the
landine of the Queen at Burlii^gton
and the subseouent Boyalist pro-
ceedings. The Fairfaxes left it ac-
cordingly, and made a successful fiank
march to Leeds, m presence of the
hostile army. In July 1643, after
he taking of Bradford by the Earl
of Newcastle, Lord Fairmx made a
mpid march fnan Leeds to Selby,
his son, Sir Thomas, following in
his rear, and there was a ca^ry
skimiiBh in the town of Selby be*
lUmie l.^BiceaZI-i-Camood.
15
NFWB a trolqM oi BojBlirt kons, wbo
gaBoped from CSawood, and-wflro en-;
cwunteratl hf Sir Thomas Faitfax and
kit soi£en, dcMm np before t]ie
Abbey gateway. The Bojalists were
wrted^andtte Fairfazes duly readied
Hon, wUoh at this tiMe was the
ngfo rtiOBghold of the Parliament
IB YcAMian. Sir Thcmin Fairfax
afterwatds eaployed m the
maaiege of Laihom ; bnt in April
16H, Lord Bellasis» the mvenxx oi
Tod, oecnpted SdDby; Lord Fair-
fa marehed ont of fiiiU and luet
Sir Thomas at Fenybridgef.and the
two then adTanced agamst Selbj.
Tbe town was attacked at three
poinfi, and the Faiifaxea took it
with a complete victarf . Lord Bel-
lads, iriih many other oflScen of
Bnk, and 1600 men were made pri-
tODOB; and guns, arms, hoiaea, and
biggage were captiared. ^The yIc-
iinj at Sdbr was the immediate cause
of the battle of Maraton Moor, and
the deetraction of the Boyalist power
i& the North. It at once raised Sir
Tbooaa Fairfax to the fint rank
amongst the genenls of the Parlia-
ment .... imd 'the two Houses
oaiked their sense of the importance
oC his serriees hj ordering a pablic
thmfagiring foE the yietoiy, on
April 237^-lfarMbM> 'Fairfax,'
p. 138.
The rich level round Selbr-pro-
daeoi nmch com, flax, wood, and
teaseL It is a perfect *plat pays'
vith the exception of 2 isolated hills,
liO ft. high (nnmded, and of diln-
^ drift), abont 2 or 8 m. S.W.,
cafied Brwdm Sairf and KambteUm
Awj^ ifhe latter is covered with
trees. BMop ^oodt, 3 m. W. of
&«%, is said to be the largest in
Torkdiire, corering abont 1000 acres.
^ro^lmt Chmr^ U ^^ S., is worth a
>«it It belonged to Selbj Abbey,
Md is partly Norman (lower part of
to«tr, chancel arch, and S. portal).
The chancel is Dec with Perp. inser-
t»w,and the W. tower is capped by
a Perp. octagonal laatem and spire.
The Norman work, especially the
portal, is very ricfa, with beak-head
niffliMinga azid medallions. In the
eh. is the mont. oi George, Lord
Darcy (d. 1568) and his wif^-HSon
of the MJOtd Daiey concerned in the
Pitehnage of Grace.
Learine Selby, the rly. proceeds
thioogh ue level plain, and crossing
the Onse, reaches ttie station at '
180 m. JticcaU ; a small village with
a ch. (restored 1865) which contains
some Konnan portions. At Riccall
the fleet of Harald Hardrada was
moored before (1066) the main body
of his troops, luiding here, advanced
on York. The bed and the whole
aspect ot the river have no donbt been
greatly changed : bnt the position
was central, and the Norw^ian fleet
moored there, at once bured the
ascent of the Ouse, and the descent
of. the Wharf e (which falls into the
Ouse a little above Biccall) where
the English fleet had retired. (Free-
man, iii. 348.)
[3} m. W. of Riccall is Oawood, a
smlall market-town on the Onse, here
crossed by a feiry, in the midst of a
fertile district, noted for the growth
of flax and teasels. Here, long be*
fore the Oonqnest, the Abns. of
York possessed a palace, which was
easteUated in the nngn of Hen. IV.
Wolsey made it his summer resi-
dence. He was arrested here for
Mgh'treason, just before his deatii,
by the Earl of Northnmberland.
The palace was demolished during
the great Rebellion; and ail that
remams is a large chapel built of
brick, and the gatehouse, the work
of Abp. and Chancellor Kempe
(1426-1452), through which the proud
Lord Cardinal pused in the hour
of his humiliation. In the room
over the gateway the Abp.*s courts-
leet for tiie manor are still held.
"A venerable chestnut, fish-ponds.
16
JBotUe l.—B8eriek: Pdrk
extensive marks of old fonndatioiis,
assist in canying back the mind to
one of the most renuurkable periods
of English histoiy." Several adja
cent houses have been built oat of
the ruins. Abp. Matthmo died here
March 29, 1628; and his successor,
Abp. MotUeigney who had been Bp.
snccessivelj of Lincoln, London, and
Durham, also died at Cawood, on
the 6th Nov. in the same jear.
There is a monument for Abp.
Montei^e in the ch. of Cawood,
which IS Perp. and of some interest
He was a native of the place, and
founded a charity here which still
exists.]
Skirting the park of Eserick the
ri^. proceeds to the 8taL at the village
the same name.
3^1
Eaeriek seems to be eouivalent to
the southern '^Ashridge, and is a
good example of the haMer ** Northern
Englidi." It is so named from a low
ridge of land which stretches between
the rivers Ouse and Derwent, the
viUage of Wheldrake '* Quell (Spring)
ridge **) marking its termination above
the latter. The ch. of Eserick, which
formerly stood in the saiden of
Eseriek Park (Lord Wenlock), was
removed to its present site in 1769,
and was again taken down and rebuilt
in 1854 at the cost prindpallT of the
late Rector the Hon. and Bev. Stephen
Lawley. The existing church (F. C.
Penrose, arch.) is late I>ec. in general
character, and is venr picturesque. It
consists of nave, K. aisle, eastern
polygonal apse, with a tower 100 ft
high on the N.E. side, making a fine
group from the road ; and at the W.
end a second apse or multangular
chapel, which serves at once as in^-
tisteiyand memorial chapel (it is over
the family vault). On the S. side of the
nave is a poxch, with parvise chamber
used as a vestay, and a turret with
spiral staircase projecting into the
interior and makmg a gwxl feature.
The nave pillars are of Plymouth
marble — those of the bi^ytistery of
marble from Ipplepen, also in Devon-
shire. The ch. ^ded. to St Helen) is
built of stone Imed with brick. A
rose-window above the baptisteiy arch
is filled with Hardman's f lus, as are
the £. windows. The font in the
baptistery is by TogndUj master of
drawing to Ganova. There are also
here a nne bas-relief by Hwnoaldsen
to the memorr of Lady Lawl^ grand-
mother of the 2nd Lord Wenlock,
and one by WyaU for Richard Thomp-
son, Esq.
Eserick Fork closely adjoins the
village. It is large and well-wooded,
but, Tike all this part of Yorkshire, is
nearly level. The house stands on
the low rise of the << Ash ridge.** The
hall, originally Elizabethan, was en-
larged bv ^eilby Thompson, Esq.,
great-uncle of the present owner. On
tiie S. side is a large and well-laid-oat
Italian garden, ^e house contains a
few good pictures. In the drawing^
room are — a landscape, with the
Prodigal Son, 8. Bota; Job and his
wife, Critereino ; the Flight into
Egypt, Baroeeio ; and Hf^;ar and
Ishmael, Oirlo JMos. In Lady Wen-
lock's Mfng-room are— « Virgin and
Child, by Andrea del Sarto ; and St.
Damenic and St. Francis, a small
but most striking picture, by Fra
Bartolomeo. On the etairoaee are —
Sir Thos. and Lady Lawley, 1682,
Vamdyek (?); and two portraits of
Ladv Anne Lottrel, afterwards Duchess
of (Jumberland. (It was the marriage
of the Duke with this lady which
partly caused the passing of the
Royal Marriage Act in 1772.) The
best portrait is by Oouuhorought and
is one of his Inasterpieces. The
second, also a fine picture, is by
Ronmey; but is perhaps unfinished.
In the haXl is a marole group by
WyaU (1827), 'Boys returning from
the Chase.' The ''boys" are por-
traits of 2nd Lord Wenlock and his
brother. Here are also a nymph,
Bouie 1. — Slnpmth : Ohureh^ Ckmmon.
'Diree,' Canora^s last work, finiahed
hf a pupil ; and two superb cineniiy
una of Oriental alabaster, from the
"nieatre of AngastDB at Borne. One
■ aaid to have contained the ashes
of Mazcdhia ; ilie other was prepared
for tfaoae of Aognstiis. The LArary
m fkh in foreign totpogtaphy, especiallj
ItaluD. Here are also a fine collection
of HomeiSy indndingthe < Editio Prin-
eeps ; * Haooleon's < Bodoni ; * Porson's
mj ci tke lai^-paoer ^Orenyille
Homer; * a collection of omithological
books; and part of the theological
fibmy of Sir William Dawes, Abp. of
York (died 1724> Orer the chimney-
pieces are two Teiy rich old Venetian
maror-frames, carved in Toikish box-
wood, fay Brastdo, the master of
Of^ling Gibbons.
[A drire of 3| m. from Escrick,
thrangfa A lerel bnt pleasantly- wooded
ooontiy bringiB ns to Skipwiih. {With
seems here to be the Danish word,
signifying aforeBt) Its ancient Church,
ded. to St. Helen, hi^ily remains nn-
rertored, and the evidences of its
ancient histoiy have not as yet been
swept away. The tower, at the W.
end, is of three stages. The two
lower, if not Saxon, are very eariy
Neman ; the nppennost is Perp. The
two westernmost bays of the nave are
TkBns.-Nocm., with octagonal piers,
zigsag romid the outer arch monld-
iags, and bandies of foliage, E. £. in
cbaaeter, at the intersections. The
eastern bay is E. E. The square-
headed derestory windows are per-
Inps eailT Pen., of the same period
ss the enaneeC which was entirdy
rdmilt in the 14th cent. On either
■de are two high sqnaie-headed win-
dows, of three lights each, with Pero.
tzaeesy in the headings. The E.
window, which resembles them, is of
5 lig^its, with bcacketi for figures on
eitiier aide. There are some remains
of good stained glass, with excellent
borien, in the upper lights; and
within the nresent ceni the windows
wen entirely filled with g^aas, wluch
[ForM^] .
17
was carried off by one of the rectors.
The saltire of the Nevilles remains in
one of these windows. There is no
chancel arch. Chancd and nave
have a plain open roof. The arch
from the nave into the tower is very
remarkable. The ornament is the
same on either side, bnt is most per-
fect within the tower. The anm is
round-headed, with a plain soffit;
and at some little distance from the
main arch is first a round and then
a square moulding, slightly projecting
from the wall. A round stringcourse
cuts both these mouldings, and passes
round at the spring of the main arch.
The second story of the tower has
had a square fireplace, which may
be a later addition. The window
openings, rude and narrow, are
spUyed outside and in. The S. porch
has the zigiag moulding round a
square-headed doorway. The iron-
work on this door — ^interUcing, with
bosBes— -may be Norm., and should
be noticed.
Skipwith Common, which stretches
away beyond the ch., is one of the
hffgest tract of unendosed (reclahn-
able) land in England. Among the
heath which covers it, the Umij
Chntiana pneumonanthe growa in
profusion, nowering in autumn, when
its bright blue is conspicuous among
the heather. ** On Skipwith Common
are many tumuli, old banks, and
the slightly-marked foundations of
ancient ^tof or log?) houses or wig-
wams. These, by some error of tra-
dition, tf e called < Danes* Hills ; ' but
on opening the tumuli, no confirma-
tion of so modem a date appeared.
The tumuli are set in square fosse :
the sides of the fossae range N. and S.
and E. and W. (true). Sunilar facts (?)
anpear in connection with tumuli on
Tliorganby Common adjacent Burnt
ashes and bones occur m the mounds
— ^facts which suffice to overthrow the
supposition of these hills being fune-
ral heaps of the Danes of the 11th
cent, for then they buried their
dead. No instromenta of metal, bone,
o
18
Bonie 1.— *Farl: General Index.
stone, or pottery were foand.''—
Ph4UM$ TiMrkMre. These << Danes'
BjUi,^ era tnditionelly eonneeted
with the baide at Staa^ford Bridge.
A piece of groond } m. S. is calM
the «< King's Budding"— and a way
near it is ««OiaTe'^ road/'
There is a station at
Nabttfn9 a small village on the
east beak of the Cose ; and then,
Jdn crosainfl^ the river, the towers
the great Afinster come into view,
and thiSa^ a breach in tiie old city
walk, bsibiaroiialy made to admit the
rly., we enter
189 m. York Station, periiape the
finest and most commodious of the
provincial stations in England.
There is an especially good refresh-
ment room at the stat
QWOBBJJU LffDBX— YOBK.
Biudclioas's QmiMM ST
iiaUHlU 63
Bridgea Lendal ..•'.... 63
Cas& tad OUffoid'a Tower .... 64
GBmetanr (Rodmd) ....... 60
CbudiMw—AUSftints, North St.. • . &3
All Sainta, Pavement • . 53
Hdy TMntty, OolUergate . 51
f Goodramgate Si
Mleklegate . W
aCaibbert's 61
8.0niz 63
8L Deiria, Walmsate . . .61
& Helen'ta-on«¥^lla (site) , 61
8. Helea'a, StoMRatel. , . 63
S. Jolin'a, Mlckkgate . . 63
&Lawxcaoe 63
8. MaiSBWt'a, WaliDgate ' . 62
8^Utxan% OoMfSL . . SS
8. Xartin'a-oim-Qregoiy,
mckknte 66
aifary.Castlegate ... 63
& Mary the Elder^Blaiiopmu 64
„ Toiii«ar, » 66
& Michael to Belfty . . 61
& Michad'a, Spnrrter Gate . 63
aOtovcTa n
aSampaon'a 63
aSMioiu^ 61
Ezcoralaos T3
OoQdhaU • ee
UlatoryorToric ••
Hotels .^18
Mlnater le
MnUangtaar Tower 6S
OldHonaes • • . 6Y
Ballwaya is
a AntboQv'a H06|dtal 67
8. Leooaid'a „ ...... 56
aibnTsAbb^ 65
aWilUoBteCUtteee 67
Tlie King's Manor 57
York Baoea .68
Torkahire Phlloeophlcal Society ... 66
„ GaidflDi 66
M HcMpltinin and Masenni of
AntiqaUles 58
M Mnaeam ....... 60
Walla and Gates 61
UTortliksofTorfc 71
Botdt : *fUfyal Station Hotel, entered from
the aution, beat ; veiy comfortable and rea-
aonable. Norfh-Raatem Railway Hotel, op-
posite Um sCat Scawln'a nanily Hotel, also
near the station. York Hotel, central. Black
Swan, Ooney-fltraet; oentnl and tolerably
good.
The JteOmif Statian and Beta, In con-
nection with the lines bekuglng to the
North Eastern Rlj.Gompanjr ; and the Oraat
Northern trains, ronningfrom Donoaster to
York, paaaing into It. The atat. la outside
the dty wall, on the rt bank of the Ooae,
and varly o^nwslte the groonda of St. Maiy 'a
Abbey.
Railwata: To the north, Newark, Ber.
wick, and Edlnbur^, vid Darlington (9 ttaioa
daily. Rte. 16); to Knaieaborongh and Harto-
fate, in 1 hr. (Bte. 30).
To Harrowute, via Cbnrch Fenton and
The Sutkm la within 10 minntea* walk of
the Mlnater; In proceeding to which, of«r the
Tieodal Bridge, yoa paaa 1. the enCMice to
the groonda and mnaeiim of the Yorkshire
PhUoNphlcal Society. In the gronpda are
the rafna of St. Mary's Abb^. These are
the principal potato of interest la Toric.
And about 806 yarda fhrnot* the stat. (in an
opposite direction) la MioUegate Bar, the
meet perfect and moat histono of the dty
gatea. Ilie dlatanoea from the new ataL
will be somewhat lesa to the Mineter, and
more to Mjnktogste.
York (Pop. of umnieipal borouffh
in 1881, M,ld8), the capital of a
eaanty which snipasses m ezte&t
sad wealth many priiieipaliti€6 and
kingdoms in Enrope, is placad at
the irmction of the tluee Bidinn
(see litffod.). ftwastheBritishOber
■^■1
.'/\\
1/ CLCMdnTTHdii
Boute1.—Torh: MimUr.
19
Swame, a name ci uncertain etymo-
log7, 1»at nrobablj referring to the
sitoii^ioa of the town on the mer
Onae. (The Case is formed by the
jimetioa ci the Swale and the Ure,
which latter name may enter into
the eonq;K»ition of Svr-auc) ETvane,
Rnntiuiiaed, became W)ommn (Mr.
WeUhebred and moit English seholan
make it Eborftcun ; some continental
wiiten Eboricmn — ^there is no direct
authority for either) ; and afterwards,
under the Saaons, JEefenne, The
I>aniah setflers made it Jorvik; from
which kst form, according to Woisaae,
the present York is immediately de-
scended. The form in Domesday is
Snerwic
From the 17th century until very
recently York, although it was the
winter residence of the neighbouring
gently, remained stationary and lif e-
MBB, without commerce, and with
little trade. Bailways, however, have
done much to change this, although
the ancient prophecy —
*• Linoofai was, Loadott la, but York ehall be
The gicatMt dQT of the thxM"—
will hardly be realised until, as
Fuller suggests, the " river of Thames
run under the great arch of Ouse
bridge." This bridge gave place
(1810-1820) to the present 8-arched
structure. The Lendal bridge is a
light and ornamental iron arch,
leading direct from the railway sta-
tions to the Mhister. The Foss is
craned by 3 small bridges, and there
is a toQ bridge over the Ouse from
Skeldergote to the Castle. It is of 8
arches, the central 90 ft. span. The
city still retains an antique and vener-
able aspect; and its network of
narrow streete, without apparent plan
or regolaritf, covers the same wide
area as in the days of York's greatest
prosperity.
The gre
great poinis of interest in
York are the* Minster; the ruins of
«&t Mary's Abb^, with the Mn-
seum of the Yorkshire Philosophical
Society ; the * City walls and gates ;
and some of the * parish chinches.
The visitor wUl, of courw, first find
his way either across the new bridge,
or through Coney-street and the still
narrower pass of Ston^gate, to the
MIN0TKB.
YOBK MiNSTEB — CONTENTS.
Ptigfi
History and Oeneiml GhAracter ... IS
S.TranMpl. Exterior 33
„ Interior 34
„ StaiDcdglan . . . . 3S
„ MonumeDtfl .... 35
.Narrow archee in Transepts • . . . 2S
N.Tx»Dsept Interior 37
H Stained glass .... 37
M Konnmente .... 88
Nave 38
Stained ^daas in Hm 31
Chapter-^oose 33
Glass In Gbaptar-honss 34
Cihoir snd Prestartery 36
Shrine of St.William .37
Choir Aisles 33
EastlVindow 39
Hanunents in N. Choir Aisle ... 40
„ Preshytery .... 40
„ Sw Choir Aisle . ... 43
Stained glass. East Window ... 43
„ N.Chofar Aisle ... 43
& Choir Aisle ... 44
Cm*;.^ -W
Central Tower 45
Choir Screen 4$
Otku 4e
Beoord Room, Veetry, and Treasury . 4S
SxUrior qf Mivtiar, & side of Nave. 47
Central Tower 47
West Front 47
N. side of Nave 48
N. Transept 43
Chapter-house 4a
East End of Choir 4a
Chapter Llbnuy. so
L Although the Boman Eborscnm
can hardly hove been without a
Christian church, all recollection of
such a building seems to have passed
away when St. Paulinus visited
Northumbria at the beginning of the
7th cent The kmg, Edwin, who
then embraced Christianity, was bap-
tised (Easter-day, a.d. 627) in a
small woodea church, hastily built
20
Bouie 1. — Torh: Minster, History.
whilst lie was receiving instruction
as a catechumen, and dedicated to
St. Peter. This was the first church
built on the site of the existing
Minster. After his baptism, in the
words of Bede, the king *<8et about
to construct in the same place, at the
suggestion of Paulinus, a larger and
more noble basilica of stone, in the
midst of which the oratorj which he
had first built was to be included.
Accordingly, having laid his founda-
tions, he began to build his basilica
in a square form around the ori-
ginal oratory; but, before the walls
were completed, the king was slain,
and it was left to his successor
Oswald to complete the work." The
head of Edwin, after his death in
the battle of Heathfield (a.d. 633),
was brought to Tork and deposited
in this baiilica, in the <*porticu8 of
St. Gregoiy the Pope, from whose
disciples he had received the word of
life.'^ Archbishop Wilfrid, in 669,
found this building in great decav.
He repaired its roofs and its walk,
« rendering them whitw than snow
by means of white lime," and
filled the windows with glass. In
the year 741 the "monasterium"or
"minster" in Tork was burnt, ac-
cording to Boger Hoveden; and
Archbishop Albert, who came to the
see in 767, is recorded by Alcuin as
havinff been the builder of a most
magnificent basilica in his metro-
politan city. We may fairly con-
clude that Albert rebuilt the ch.
founded by Edwin and restored by
Wilfrid. This ch. remained Tmtil the
year 1069, when it was destroyed, in
its tun, by fire in the course of the
Conquerors devastation of Yorkshire.
The central wall of the cnpt, below
the drair of the existing tunster, is
the only ralie which can possibly be
assiffned to the Saxon cathedral of
TonL
ThomoM of BayevXj the first Nor-
man abp., was eonseciBted to the see
in 1170. He found his cathedral in
ruins, and is said first to have repaired
it as well as he could, and afterwards
(before the end of his episcopate in
1100) to have built a new ch. from the
foundations. This ch. remained entire
untU Abp. Bo^ (1154^1181) pulled
down the choir with its crypts and
reoonstmcted them on a considerably
larger scale. Abp. Oray (1215-1255)
pnUed down the S. transept of
Thomas of Bayeux*s ch., and built
that which now exists. John Bomanits,
sub-dean and treasurer of York (1228-
1256) and Archdeacon of Riclunond,
built, according to Stnbbes, the N.
transept and a central bell-tower at
his own expense. The early Norman
nave of Abp. Thomas still remained ;
but its removal commenced in 1291,
when Abp. Somanw (1285-1296),
son of the treasurer, laid the first
stone of the existing nave, which was
completed, after some intermissions,
about the ^ear 1345; although its
wooden ceilmg was not added until
1355. The ch^ter-house was in pro-
gress at the same time as the nave.
Abp. Bogdr's Norman choir was stand-
ing at the completion of the nave, but
it was plainly out of character with
the increased siaeand magnificence of
the new building ; and in 1361 Abp.
ThoreiHw (1852-1873) began the ex-
isting Lady-chapel and Presbytery,
whi<£ were, no doubt, completed at
the time of his death. Between the
years 1378 and 1400 the Norman
choir was entirely taken down, and
was replaced by that which now
exists. The central bell-tower, which
had been the work of the treasurer,
John Bomanus, was recased about
1405, and the works of the present
tower extended over the succeed-
ing years. The S.W. tower was
begun about 1432, whilst John Ber-
ningham was treasurer; the north-
western was completed about 1470;
and on the 8rd July, 1472, the ch.,
which had thus been completely re-
built, was reconsecrated, and the day
was afterwards observed as the feast
of dedication. Like the first wooden
ch. of Panllnns, the vast minster was
Bottle l.—Tork : SRtuter.
21
A. A. A. Nftve and AlsleB.
B. B. B, SoatbTraoaept and
Atolea.
CSmitti Transept
VarUL
D.D.E Ifortii Transept and
AUIea.
E.yeatilmleof Ghap-
ter^xmie.
F. ~
6.
H. VntbftKry*
h North Cboir Afale.
K. Soath Choir Aiale.
L. Retrochofr.
M. BaooxdBoom.
N. Yestry.
O. Treasor
P. Beoord
1. Mont of Abp. Gray.
2. „ « fiewal do
BoTlU.
8. M » Greenfield.
4. „ „ Vernon-
Haroonrt.
5. Haxey*B Tomb.
6. Mont assigned to Abp.
Roger.
7. Mont afWm.de Hatfield.
8. „ Abp. Savage.
9. Tomb of Abp. Scrope.
10. Montof Abn.Rotberfaam.
11. Efflgy of Abp. Matthew.
12. Unknown monnment
13. Mont of Abp. Bowet.
U. Tombof A^p. Matthew.
16. CenoUph of Abp. Mark-
ham.
16. Mont of Abp. Mosgravp.
Bauie h-^Tork : Minster^ ERUory.
dedicated in the name of God and of
St Peter the Apostle.
The dates and arehtteetwral eha^
raUer of the different portions of
the cathedral mar be time recutita-
lated:—
Baaon^ of vnoertain date. — dinner
wall of crypt,
Norman (temp. Abp.Thomas, 1070-
1100). — ^Remains at western end of
^oniMm (temp. Abp. Bogw,
1154-1181). — Esstem portion of
EarlyEngUai (1215-1256).— North
and Bonth transepts.
DeeoraUd (1285-1345).— Nave and
chapteor-honse.
Early PerpenOimdar (1861-1378).
— Ladj-chapel and presbytery.
Perpendieular (1373 - 1400).—
Choir.
LatePerwmdievlar (140&-1470).—
Central and two western towers.
The Minster is bnilt of magnesian
limestone from onarries near Tad-'
caster; from the Hnddleston quarries
near Sherbmn; and from qnarries
near Stapleton (Pantefract). A body
of workmen (not so large as that
which the Fabric Bolls show to haye
been in the constant service of the
chapter) is kept for the ezecation of
repairs, on which considerable sums
are spent yeazly.
II. Torh Mifuter has, perhaps,
a more widely-extended reputation
than any other English cathedraL
Until the rise of the great manu-
facturing towns within the present
century, Toi^, like the Roman Ebo-
racum which it replaced, was by far
the most important city in the
North of Enriand. It was the
centre from which Christianity had
been dispersed throughout the codntiy
north of the Hnmber, and the ch.
in which Paulinus baptised King
Edwin was, as we have seen, long
presenred within the walls of the
existing cathedral. The wealth and
importance of the ancient city, and
the memory of the great change
of faith in Northumbria, found their
most permanent representative in
the Blinster, which, as the metro-
politan church of the Northern Pro-
vince, gathered about it the re-
collectioos, often of deep historical
interest, connected with its long
series <^ ajtchbishops. These causes
sufficiently explain the early fame
of the ca&edral ; and after the com-
pletion of the long series of works
which have just been recorded, the
sise and grandeur of the building
itself ru>imy extended its reputation.
Aieas Sylvius, afterwards rope Pins
n., who passed through Toik about
the year 1430, soon aner the central
tower had been finished, describes
the ch. as *< worthy to be noted
throughout the worid (toto orbe me-
marandmi) for its size and archi-
tecture; with a very light chapel
(meeHum lueidimnnimy^OM Chap-
ter-house?) whose glass walls" (the
large windows) <*rise between very
slender clustered columns." The shrine
of St William, ibe great treasure of
the liinster, although no doubt rich
and stately, was exceeded in import-
ance by that of St Cuthbert at Dur-
ham, and probably by those of St
John at Beverley and St Wilfrid at
Bipon; but the cathedral itself was
always the great centre of the northern
counties, and it still remains a bond
of union between the many sects,
parties, and classes scattered over the
three Bidings. Whatever touches the
Minster touches the heart of York-
shire.
Althon^ other English cathedrals
can show portions and details of better
design and of more delicate beauty,
it must be admitted that few exceed
Toric Minster in dignify and massive
grandeur. These are especially the
characteristics of the exterior. fVom
the walk on the walls the cathedral is
well seen, towering above the ancient
city. Of the nearer views the best
are— that of the W. front, from the
end of the space before it, which has
Boute l^^Tofk: Mmder, Oemral Oharaeier.
heen deirad oi maay joottagtf tanA
deesyins buildlogi; and that of the
whole ll. ade, fion the lawn in boat
of the Deanetjr. In the height of its
roofs (9ei ft. in the na^e^ 102 ft in
tiie ehnr) York exeeedB ereiy other
Bn^iah cathedraL This great height
is evident on the exberior, where, to
iOBLe extent, it dvraifs the apparent
dineneioni of the oentnl and western
toweta; and it is the main cause of
the &st powerfol ivpreanon on enter-
ing the boflding. llie great breadth
oi the nave (lOii ft, with its aisles)
is iU-enppnted l^ the oompaKaiiTely
slender picas of the main arcade, which
want the gnndenr of the Noiman piers
at El J or Peteitamigh, or of the
more maesiTe Feipendicnlar arcades
in the naves of Winohester and
Ganterhoij. The breadth of the
choir (99| ft) ie somewhat less; but
it comhines with the aqtaue eastern
end, filled with one of the burgeBt
windows in. the wvnid — a literal
'^wall of ghws" -and with tiie lines
of the aidiPwaUs, onbroken by chant-
nee or side-ehapelB tofvodnoe an im-
pressivB effeet The view across the
great trasaept takes its pkce, withoat
the finest architee-
The trsnsept aides are vaulted with
stone. The adginal roofs of both
nave and ohoir were of wood, probably
on account of the nnnsnal breadth of
the spaeetO' be covered. In the night
of fWnaiy let, 18S9, the dioir was
set on fire by a c^krtain Jonathan
Martin, who had hidden himself after
the evdung service of, the piievions
day behind Archbishop Chreenfield's
tomb in the N. transept After
destroying the carved staUe Und the
orpn, the flames reached the roof,
imh was entirely consmned. Oon-
sidsrable damage was done to the
stonewcdc of the cbeir; and the great
K windoi^ was not sdved Without
difiicidty. Martin himself (who was
a brother of the well-known artist)
escaped throngh a window of the
transept, bnt was taken at Hexham
H few daytf afterwards, and tried at
the York assixes»when he was pro^
nonnced insane. He was confined in
a Innatic asylnm, and died in 1838.
The cost of restoration after the ^e
was estimated at 65,0002., which sum
was raised by pnblic snbseription :
5000L worth of teak timber was
granted from the National Docl^ards ;
and Sir Edward Vavasonr, like his
anoesioFB in tiie 14th cent, gave the
neoessaiy stone from the Huddlestone
qoairies (near Ferry Bridge), the same
which had been worked in tiie time
of Arehhi8ho|> Thoresby. The re-
storation, which was completed in
18^ was entrusted to Sur Bobert
Smirke. The roof of the nave was
destroyed on the 20th of May, 1840,
by a fire which broke ont in the
&W. (the bell) tower, where some
workmen had been repairing the
dock. The tower was reduced to a
^ell; the beUa- were destroyed; and
the fiamea rapidly spread to the roof
nf the nave, the wbble of which was
hnmt: 28,0002. wis raised, chiefly
by snbseription, for the restoration,
which was completed in the following
year, nnder the care of Sidney Smirke.
The dUnennons of the principal
parts of the Cathedral are as follow : —
liCnctba Bivedta* HctghU
yL Ft. Ft.
Kftfe 264 104i 99i
Cbofr «od Presbytery 233^ 9»i 102
TnnwptB . . . 2234 93i 99
Udy<<lupel . . ', Si loo loi
Oentnl lower 216
Western Tower 202
The Sonth Transept, owing to the
great weight and preasnre of me roof
and oak-coined cmling, of which the
latter is carried high above the top
of the walls, was foond to be in
so dangerous a condition that in
1872 the work of reconstnictang it
was entmsted to Mr. G, E, Stnet,
He fomid it necessary to take down
the wall as far as the base of the
clerestory, and to rebuild it, with the
old materials, and preciselv as before.
It would appear, also, that the re-
casmg of the tower piers (sec § xxiv.),
24
BaiUe l.—Torh: Minsier^ 8. TramepL
while strengthening the tower itself,
had much injured tiie transept
III. The cathednd is usually
entered from the 8. Transept, the great
portal of which fronts the Tisitor as
he enters the Minster-jard from Stone-
gate. The transept is, as we hare
seen, the earliest portion of the exist-
ing church; and Dj commencing here,
each part of the cathedral may he
described in due architectural suc-
cession. (The archUeetwre^ the monu-
ments, and the Hained gloM of each
division are described separately and
successively. The numbered sections
will assist reference.)
Leaving the rest of the exterior for
the present, the visitor before entering
should remark that of the S. transept
This transept was erected, in all pro-
bability, during the ardiiepiscopate
of Walter de Gray (1215-1255), and
is pure £. £. There is little differ-
ence in general design between the
two transepts, both of which must
have been completed during the life-
time of Archbishop Gray. Both have
£. and W. aisles. The main distinc-
tion between them is in the composi-
tion of their gaUes, or N. and S. ends,
which differ entirely, that of the N.
transent being infinitely the finer.
In tne 8. tiansept the main or cen-
tral portion is divided frcnn the fronts
of the aisles by enriched buttresses.
Two flights of steps ascend to the
portal, "set in a shallow porch of
very meagre composition and execu-
tion," the upper part of which is
flanked on eitner side by a lancet-
window. In the story above are three
lofty pointed windows, much decorated
with brackets and shafts, and with the
dogtooth in their mouldings ; and tiie
actual gable is filled with a very rich
rose-window, with nanow pointed
openinss below and a triangolar
light iU)Ove it The whole of this
front was admirably restored by
£dward Street, B.A.,'l880.
IV. The view which is presented!
to the visitor on entering is withont
donbt the finest in the cathedral. The
great height (99 ft), breadth (93}
ft), and length (228) ft) of tJie
whole transept; the majestr of the
fine lofty lancets which nearly fill the
N. gable ; the solemn li^ht strugffling
through their ancient diapered gmss ;
the great central tower with its un-
rivalled lantern, ccHnbine to produce
an impression fully sustaining the
great reputation of the Minster.
In the 8, trantept the piers of the
main arcades have clustered shafts, of
local stone and Pnrbeck marble alter-
nately. In the central piers all the
shafts are ringed. In tnose at the
ends (except that in the angles
adjoining the nave, afterwards to be
•mentioned) only the Purbeck shafts
have rings. The capitals are f oliaged.
The outer moulding of the main
arches on the E. side is enriched by
a small double dogtooth ornament,
with a billet between. The effect
thus produced is very rich. The dog-
tooth occurs again on each side of the
soffit; one row only being visible
when the arch is looked at in front.
The tHfeHwuk in each bay is formed
by a wide circular arch enriched with
the dogtooth, enclosing two pointed
arches, each of which is again sub-
divided into two. In each bay of
the derestorv is a group of five
pointed arcnes, of equal height;
the shafts between which are York-
shire stone and Pnrbeck marble
alternately. The arches have many
mouldings, among which appears
the dogtooth. At the back of the
clerestory passage are three lancets
in each bay, corresponding to the
central arches of the arcade. The
eonUJntr^slka/Es, in groups of three,
wit^ dogtooth ornament between
them, spring from brackels of leafage
between the main arches. They rise,
rinced by the base moulding of the
triforium, and again somewhat higher,
to the crowns of the pointed triforium
arches, where they terminate in capi-
tals of leafage. On these capitals
JBoiUe 1^—Tori: Mngier, S. JVeuuqtl.
25
test DMCB) train which triple shftfts
rise to the hase of the derestoiy,
which enrings them, and fonns their
camtals.
In the sable is the rose or wheel
window, £e best and most striking
featoreof this end of the transept, n
is only neeeGsary to torn toward the
N. transept to peroeire at once how
far that gable end exceeds the S.
The waU of the W. aisle is lined
bdow the windows with a foliated
arcade, hafing bosses of leafage at
the intenections of the arches. The
rose-window in this Ixansept, and the
five smaller lancets in that opposite,
wera^Iong cot off bj the groinings of
the roof. The line of it was raised
befon the rest<wation nnder Mr.
Street (1873), so as to brinff back
both these to the interior. Mr. Street,
as has been said, fonnd it necessary
to take down the walls as far as the
base of the clerestory. In rebuilding
them, he has ffiven mneh greater
^ strength by making the piers solid.
Since the erection of the central
tower, the passage throagh them
had led to nothmg. The whole
wei^ii of the roof and sroined ceil-
mr m now carried on timber from the
^.
V. The stotaad ^Iciss in this tran-
s' is of no great miportance. That
in the rose-window is modem and
p bad. In the windows below are: in
the centre, 8t Peter and St Panl ;
with St William of York E., and St
Wilfrid W. The four lower lights
are filled with ghiss by Peckett of
Toric, giiren to the cathedral in 1798.
The fignres are Abraham, Solomon,
Moses, and St Peter. The colour of
this ^lass is fine; Peckett's mby was
especially famous ; bnt the backgroond
aa^ accessories are thoroughly bad.
In the eastern aisle is some Pern.
giasB, with the fignres of St Michael,
StTOabriel, and St WiUiam, toward
the N., in the chantry of St Ifichael
the Archangel, fomided by Abp.
Gray in 1241 ; and with those of the
Blessed Virgin and St John in the
chapel fooiMed in their honour, in
127S, by Thomas de Lndham, Canon
of York. In the W. aisle is some an-
cient Perp. glass, with modem bordeis.
The yellow glass here used for the
head of oar "Latd deserves notice.
VI. In the E. aisle, S. tnmsept, is
the finest monument in the cathedral,
the magnificent Tomb, with effigy and
canopy, of Abp. Oray (1215-1255).
There is no direct evidence for as-
signing the foundation of the entire
transept to this Arehbp. ; * but it
is certain that the transept must
have been complete (or nearly so)
in 1241, when he founded the
chantiy in which he lies interred;
and it was the usual custom to bury
the founder in the midst of his own
work. C^my* who was one of the
greatest Eneush preUtes of his cen-
tury, was uie fnend and favourite
of &inff John, and has at least the
merit m entire fidelity to his patron.
He was Chancellor from 1205 to
1214, and was not less valued by
Henry IH, who twice left him Be-
gent of the kingdom. At Christmas,
1252, the Abp. married Alexander
of Scotland, and Margaret, daughter
of Henry HI. Both Courts were at
York for some weeks, and the feast-
ing was prodigious. Gray was an
excellent economist in his diocese,
and was the purchaser (for the see)
of Bishopthorpe, and of York Place
in London (afterwards Whitehall).
See Baine's * Lives of the Abps. of
York.»]
The pier arch under which the
* The tnditioo, however, baa always nm
to thla effect. The anUquary Gent, writing
In 1731, "mounted on bu ooorser" to visit
tiie Uttle drarch of Skelton, near Toifc,
•* because it Is afflnned twas ballt with the
stones that remained after the S. cross of the
Minster had been finished by the Arehbn.
Walter Gnr^-Oent's B^ptm, pt il. 8. It
may also be remarked, as lUoftnting the
boudlng propensities of Archbn. Oray, tliat
the W. front of Ripon was In sll probeblUty
UsworiL (See that Cathedral, Bte. 38.)
^BoiUe l.—Tark: IRwkr, 8. Tnmuept.
tomb stands is made wider than the
otben, appaxentlj to give it import-
ance. The' ciffigy of the Abp. (who
"^ seems to hare oeen a man of small
stature and slight frame '\ Tested
in cope, tonic, dahnatic, ana alb, has
an enridied arch above the head, on
either side of which are censing
ang^. One hand is raised in bene-
diction ; with the other tiie pastoral
staff is held, the end of which pierces
the dragon, tnuni»led on by the feet
Over the e^gy rises a lofty canopy,
resting on four shafts on either side,
and another at the head. These
shafts have capitals of leafage, and
support foliated arches, the spandrele
between which are ornamented with
leafaga Above, again, rises a second,
smaller canopy, with three foliated
arches on each side, resting on short
piers with enriched capitels. This
canopy is crested by gables, witii
heads at the intersections ; and from
the gables rise finials of foliage
crowned by two thrushes resting upon
woolpaeks. The sides of the gables,
and die central rid^e of the canopy,
have crockets of foliage.
All the details of this monument
deserve very careful attention. It was
retoocbed during the time of Abp.
Markham (1777-1807) by an Italian
named Bemasconi; and the finials
with their thrushes are merely of
plaster. These are an addition, and
had no existence in the original mo-
nument. Their introductiMi, there-
fore, cannot be defended, notwith-
standing their grace and beauty. The
bronzed screen which surrounds the
tomb was presented by Abp. Mark-
ham^ and was designed by De Oorte,
an artist of Antwerp.
N. of the tomb is a plain marble
slab, charged with a floriated cross,
and elevated on low pillars. It marks
the resting-place of Abp. Sewal de
BcviU (1256*1258) ; a man of " mo-
desty, piety, and learning.*' A gold
ring, taken from the Abp.'s grave
about X735, is preserved in the vestiy.
It is of plain workmanship. |
Vn. The naiww, waUed-np arches,
adjoining those which open to the
aisles of nave and choir, have still to
be described and accounted for. It
must be remembered that the Nonnan
nave and chosr remained after the
erection of the E. E. transepts, and
that they were considenbly narrower
than the present ones. *<It is true
that the central aisle of the Norman
nave was very nearly of the same
width as the new one; but its side-
aisles were exceedingly narrow in
proportion. Each side of each tran-
sept, in accordance with the then
existing arrangements, was provided
with one narrow pier-arch, opposite
to the side-aisle of the nave or choir,
and with three other pier-arches of
greater width. When the present
nave was built, its wide and spacious
side-aisles opened to each transept
immediately against the narrow pier-
arch, which hs^ been adjusted to the
narrow aisle of the preceding nave ;
and its pier was now found to be in
the very centre of the passage from
the side-aisle of the nave to tiie
transept As this arrangement was
evidently intolerable, the pier was
taken away, and a Dec. pier erected,
at a greater distance from the
tower-piers, so as to leave a proper
space for the passage from the ude-
aisles to the transepts. Instead,
however, of constructing Dec. arches
above the new pier, the £. £. arches
were simply shifted, and their arch-
stones reset, so that at present the
narrow arch which originally occu-
pied the position neanst to each
tower-pier, and corresponded to the
side-aisles of the nave, is shifted to the
second place; and the uride pier-arch,
which originally held the second place
in order from tiie tower-pier, has' be-
come the first in order, and serves to
open the way to the side-atsles. To
stzengthen the bnilding, it was also
fonnd necessary to wall up the space
between these new Dec piers and the
centralpier of the transept, on each
side. When the choir was built, si-
JBoMie 1s-^TcAj JiBiMier, JT. TraaaepL
27
mikr reatons oonpelled a omilar
cfaange, and ihm the two aides of
each traiwept became aaBimilated.
The touffHiiiiay howevcoT) remained
mialterad, and to thia day preaerve
their original anan^ement Thejr
each faaTO three wide and %qail
aicbea este&ding from their reapec-
tiye gablea; and after theae one
Banow ocanpaitment in eonnection
with the tower-pier ; and tiie dere-
atflnea* in lihe aianner> preaent three
equal compaitmenta, and one natrow
one; but oelow, reckoning from the
gabte, we find two wide Mches, then
one narrow arch, and, lastlr, one
wide one.**— IFOIm, AroML MitL of
TmkCaikedfaL
It will be aeen, therefore, that the
picD oppoaite to the tower-pien, S.
and W., are of the aame datee aa the
aave and chair reapeethrely. Moeh
dialocation ja apparent in the pier ad-
joining the nave, and is stul more
▼iable in the opposite transept. This
waa canaed, not oy the shifting of the
£. B. aschea, which seems to hove
been entirelj snoeeasfol, and which is
aceonlingly chaneterised bj Professor
Willis 9B a '^verj remarkable ex-
ample of the bold engineering work
of tae Middle Ages,** but hy the erec-
tion of the central tower, the great
Biaai of which canaed the pien on
which it is raised to aink ^ bodily into
the gnmnd, to a depth of about ei£^
iaehes,^ dragging with them the ad-
joining maaoniy and arohea.
Vm. In its genenl arrangement
the N. Trafuept reaemUea the S. ; but
time are some differencea of detail.
It is, aoeoiding to fitnbbea, the work
of John le itomain, snhdean and
treMsrer of York 1228-1256; and
its election moat hare immediatelj
followed the transept of Abp. Qmy.
On the IT. aide of this transept, the
fint pier fram the gable end ia Dec,
the original B. £. pier having no
doobi been removed when the narrow
anil which opened to the nave waa
diiftod. The pier of this arch, next
to the tower-pier, is also Dec The
chief points of difference between this
and the conei|)onding side of the S.
transept are--the character of the
foliage, which is here more advanced
and natural; the smaller vanlting-
shafts ; and the use of a large-leafed
ornament (like half a dogtooth) in
Che base of the trif orimn, and in the
cornice above the derestoiy. At the
inteiaection of the main-aich mould-
ing is an animal creeping downwards,
wdl rendered ; and above is a small
figure of a saint under a Dec canopy.
ChiiheJB. aide the piers have capitws
of veiy rich leafage, among which
(in the capitals of the centod pier)
birds with human heads, and other
groteaqnea, are pmhed. The mnd
and aimple composition of the Jv. end
has been aheadv noticed. The chief
space ia entirelv filled by five very
lofty (aboot 50 rt. high) and narrow
lancets, best biown as ** the Five Sis-
ten.*'* These are of equal height.
In the gable above them are five small
lancets, declining from the centre.
The five front windows are divided
bv groups of shafts, ringed in three
places, and of stone and Purbeck
marble alternately. The shafts, which
have capitals of foliage, are detached,
and thm is a passage along the sill
of the windows. The arch mouldings
are enriched with dogtooth. Below,
the wall ia covered with a foliated ar-
cade, resting on clustered shafts.
The " Five Sisters " are filled with
their original early English glass,
consisting of diapered patterns, vary-
ing in each window, and of very great
beauty. The narrow white border
which surrounds each window was
inserted in 1715. The glass in the
five upper lancets is modem.
* This nfune no douM arote ihmi the equal
dimensions of the 6 wiodowa, " There Is a
Uadltion that A maidefi sisters were at the
expense of these ligbts ; the painted ghtm In
them, npnmMog a kind of embroUafy or
needlewoik, might perharn glye oocmIoo for
this story. This window has also been called
the Jewish window, bat for what reason we
know not,"-atnt'a rerl; OeUktdf^
28
Bauie 1. — Tark: Mmster, Nave.
At the N. end of this aisle nyerj
rich decorated portal, opening to the
vestibule of the Chapter-house, has
been cut through the £. £. work. An
original E. E. entrance remains at the
N.S. angle.
The monuvMfUs in this transept
are — ^in the eastern aisle, the tomo,
with canopy, of Archbp. OreenfiM
(1806-1315), Chancellor of England
at the time of his election, and em-
ployed on many public services by
Edward I. and it ; he presided at
the Council which condemned the
Templars of the northern province,
and was afterwards present at
Vienne when (1312) the order was
dissolved. The veiy rich canopy,
which deserves notice, is crowned oy
a figure of the Abp. bearing his
cross, and with his hand raised in
benediction. This is modem, and the
work of a late master-mason of tiie
cathedral. A portion of a brass (one
of the earliest existing brasses of Eng-
lish ecclesiastics) remains on the tomb.
0^ The only earuer brass of an eccle-
siastic wmch is known is that of
Bichard de Hakeboume, circa 1311,
in the cha^ of Merton College, Ox-
ford."—Htuine*s Manual of Brasses.)
The lower part was stolen about the
year 1829. The Abp. is represented
fully vested, and wearing the palL
A gdd ring, with a ruby, taken
from the tomb in 1735, is pre-
served in the vestry. E. of the tomb
stood the altar <n St. Nicholas, on
whose festival the death of Abp.
Greenfield occunred. It was at the
back of this monument that the in-
cendiary Martin hid himself on the
night of the fire.
In this aisle is also the monument,
with effiflpr, of Dr. Beckwith, who died
in 1848, leaving to his native city the
benefactions here recorded, amounting
to nearly 50,000Z.
In the W. aisle is the cenotaph,
with effigy, of Abp. Vemoi^Harcourt
(1808*1847). The effigy, the hands
of which are clasped on a book resting
on the breast, is oy Noble.
IX. The Norman Nave remained
after the completion of the E. E. tran-
septs. About 40 years after the death
of the treasurer John Bomahus, the
constructor of the N. transept, the
foundation-stone of the existii^ nave
was laid (April 6, 1291) by his son,
Abp. Bomanus or le Bomain. The
work seems to have proceeded slowly,
and with interruptions; and it was
not until 1338 that the windows (in-
cluding the great W. window) were
glased. In 1345 the stonework seems
to have been entirely complete ; but
the ceiling of wood was not added for
10 years. Abp. Thoresby granted the
timber for it in 1355. The cost o£
the general work was defrajred by
offerings at the shrine of St. William,
whose relics had been translated
with great magnificence in 1284 ;
by indulgences and briefs issued
on behalf of the fabric by Abpe.
Corbridge, (Greenfield, and Itfel-
ton; by large ccmtributions from
the Abps. themselves ; and by grants
of stone and wood from the quarries
and forests of the great Northern
houses, especially those of Vavasour
and Percy. Abp. Bomanus com-
menced the work at the S.E. angle
of the nave aisle; and although a
petition, in 1298, shows that the
Nonnan nave had then either been
Eulled down or had fallen, it is pro-
able that it was allowed to remain
untouched as long as possible. The
much ereater width of the existing
side-aiues would admit of the Nor-
man walls standing within those of
the new nave.
The nave of York Minster was
thus in progress throughout the Deco-
rated period. It can hardly be said,
however, that the work, either in
design or in detail, is among the best
examples of English Dec. ; and, in
spite of its vast dimensions, the nave
of York is unquestionaUy inferior to
those (later in date) of Winchester or
Canterbury. Yet the long roofs of nave
and choir, stretching away at nearly
the same great height; the tower
Scute 1. — Tork: MinHery Nave.
29
arches which support the hmtem;
the enomums e«st window of the
cboir^ — the " wall of glass *' closing in
the vista, and showing its upper por-
tion above the organ-screen ; and the
aQlemii effect of the stained glass
filling the windows of nave, aisles, and
clerestory— all aid in prodndne an
impresiioa of grandeur. Lo^ng
westward, the great featore is the
western window, with its stately rows
of saints and archbishops. The view
across the nave, through the arch
opening firom the nave usle to the
tnnsept, is fine and nnnsnal, owing
to the great width of the aisle, and
CQnseqnently of tiie arch.
Hie design of the piers of the nave
ii octagonal, with attached shafts —
bige at the foor main points, with
smaDer between them. Toward the
osre itself the large shaft, with a
EznaUer one on either side, rise to the
spiing of the vaulting, somewhat
aoove the base of the clerestory.
These shafts, the effect of which, un-
broken by ring or stringcourse, is very
fiae, terminate in capitals of leafage.
The capitals of the pier-shafts are
aiso enriched with leafage, and the
ooter moulding of the aiches (which
ire very acute) has projecting hosts
■titsan^es.
The nave has ^ but two great divi-
sians ; of which the lower one, contain-
ing tiie pier-arches, is 51 ft. high ;
the upper one, 43 ft high, is occupied
I7 a large clerestory window of five
lights, with gecnneincal tracery, and
a tnuiBOm across the middle. The
fights above the transom are glased,
and coustituie the real window ; but
the lights below the transom (if the
phnse can be applied to openings so
perfectly dark^ are open, and, as the
roof of the side-aisle abuts against
the transom, the space behind them,
and to which they communicate, is
the interval between the stone vault
of the aiales and its wooden roof ; they
thwstfve the purpose of atriforium.^
^WUUb. The rich and peculiar head-
ings oi the derestoty windows should
be noticed. The triforium passage, in
their high sills, is formed by a double
line of tracery, with 5 openings in each
bay. In the central opening of each
bay was originally the figure of a
saint. The entire series is said to
have represented the patron stunts of
the different nations 01 Christendom ;
but nearly all have now disappeared,
and the only remaining figure which
can be identified with any probabilihr
is that of St. George, in the fourth
bay from the W., on the S. side,
irom the N. bay, opposite, projects
a stone beam, the head of which is
carved to represent that of a dragon.
This formerly supported the canopy
of the front.
It will be seen that the design of
the nave differs altogether from that
of the transepts, and that " the latter
has not exercised the slightest in-
fluence upon the composition of the
former, although the reverse has been
frequently the case when a Decorated
building has been added to an E. E.
one, as may be seen at Ely, West-
minster, and Si Albans.*"— Ft77i9.
The transepts have three very dis-
tinct divisions — ^pier-arches, triforium,
and clerestory. The nave has but two.
In the spandrels of the pier-arches
is a series of shields, the bearings on
which are those of benefactors to
the fabric.
X. The great width (80 ft.) of the
nave attlee at once excite attention.
The actual nave, or central aisle, was
the same width in the Norman ch. as
in that which now exists; but the
side-aisles of the Norman nave were
at least 10 ft narrower. The aisle
windows should be compared with
the clerestory. In both, " the tracery
is geometrical ; but in the side-aisles
the pattern is much simpler than in
the clerestory. The former, and of
course the earlier, as being lower in
the building, is in 8 lights, without
subordination or mouldings ; but the
latter is in 5 lights, with a rich head,
and a complex subordination of mould-
80
Bauie l.—Tcrh: Minster, Naoe.
ings." — TftUw. Below the windows
runs a very rich aicade, with gables
and pinnacles ; and blind arches, with
shnilar rich headings, line the walls
between the windows. The carved
heads and small figm^es at tiie termi-
nation of the outer mouldings d these
upper arches should be noticed.
XL The windowa at the W. end
of the nave aisles have geometrical
tnceiy, of the same design as the
otheis. The great W. wtfndois of the
nave itself is filled with the most
exquisite flowing tzacerr, and in its
original state was probably the work
of Archbishop Melton (1317-1340),
who gave a sum of 500 marks toward
the completion of the W. front,
and who is recorded as the donor
of the glass which still remains in
this window. There is, however,
not one old stone in it, as it was
restored (precisely on Uie original
model) many years since. The only
window in England which can be
considered as at all rivalling this one
is the £. window of Carlide Cathedral,
nearly of the same date and chaiacter.
The Carlisle window (which is the
larger of the two) has been pro-
nounced by Mr. Fergusson "without
a single exception the most beautiful
desien for window tracery in the
worm." It is not easy, however, to
determine which of these windows is
tiie finer ; and man^ competent judges
of architecture give the preference
to York. '* Althoug:h not the largest
Decorated window in the kinsdom,"
say Messrs. Poole and Hngul, '4t
is undoubtedly by far the finest, even
taken without its accessories. Its
great beauties are variety of design
and fulness of tracery, without con-
fusion as a whole, and without poverty
of separate parts.**
The great W. door, below the win-
dow, displays on either side a series of
niches once filled with figures. The
gi^le was perhaps crowned by a
statue of the Saviour. On either side
are kneeling figures. Bows of nicfaes
and blind aicading line the splays of
the window. The side openings give
light to the sturcase of the tower.
Over the aisle doors is some curious
sculpture, which deserves notiee. In
the N. aisle is, in the centre, a woman
setting her dog (which is muzsled)
at two beasts, behind which is a man
blowing a horn. In ijuatrefoils at the
sides are— « man drinking, and at-
tacked by another, and a man driving
another out of his house. In the S.
aide is— in the centre, a man, vritii
sword and round shield, fighting a
lisard-shaped monster; and in the
quatrefoils, Samson with the lion, and
Delilah cutting his hair ; and a man
and woman fighting. The sculpture
over the door of this aisle is modem,
although an exact reproduction of
the olo, which was greatly injured
by the fire of 1840, that destroyed
the roof of the nave, and began in
the S.W. tower.
The aisle roofs are of stone, and of
the same date as the aisles themselves.
The vaulting of the nave is of wood»
like that dertroyed in 1840.
In 1868 the whole of the vast nave
was fitted, for oongrentional purposes^
with movable benches, choir seats,
and an organ by Messrs. Hill and Son.
The lighting of the nave is effected by
jets of ^ which form coronals round
the capitals of the great piers. In the
choir a string of jets runs alone at the
base of the triforium. The Minster,
thus lighted, is singnlariy picturesque
and impressive.
Xn. More than one archbishop and
many other great penonages were in-
terred in the nave; but uieir monu-
ments and brasses were entirely
destroj[ed by the Puritans, with the
exception of a recessed tomb in the
N. aasle, generally assigned to Abp.
Soger (llUSl. He tras With Becket
in the family or '^oourt" of Theo-
bald, Abp. of Oanterbury, and was
on the King's side after tiie signing
of the GouBtxtutions of CUlrendon.
This WW the ••Yoik" who, in
fioiito l.—Tcrk: UDMier^ Naoe^ Sktmed CHatis.
SI
MM ting the procedence of hk see,
nt down in "'Cantetlnixy's'' lap at
a eoondl in Weslaiiiiflter, and was
Ul killed in esnaaqnance. At his
dcailL Hen. JL soiiad all his gfvt
iKisoMJW, and Foxe in cansecpieiice
\ gires lihn a place amoiiff his mar-
tyn; n eoinpinnflBt whieh the Alip.
iroald scaicdj have appteciaied).
niis manmnent is, however, of a
moGii later date-; atthongh it is
pQssiUe that the remains of Ahp.
Bogfflr may have heen transferred
to it from the choir, where he was
originany buried. Some bones and
fkagmeots d restaientB were foand
in the tomb when it was examined
hekn its Mstotation in 1868. Al-
thoagli the wosiL is good, this resto>
laiMB is not to be oommended; and
■'two hiids holding seroUs, on either
ndeof the central figiveol the Vir-
gin, have been metamorphoaed into
eaglea, with ears of wheat in their
Hio aainted Ahp. William of Toik,
who died in IIM, was then intoned
hi the naTB of the Bfinster, <« near the
S.W. iriUar of the knten.'' His re*
nndns were tnoskted in 1284; bat
a tomb or cenotaph atill remained in
the nare^ and offerings were dnly
DMdo ai it. Thia tomb was destroyed
at the BefonnatiQn (no dooht by Dean
Laytoai), and the relics of the aaint
veie vaplaeed beneath the pavement
of the nave. Here they were dis-
eovered in 1782. (See pod^ 4 xn,)
Ahp. lielton, who oontrionted so
higef^^ toward the ccanpletion of the
BBve, -was interred near the font His
coffin, in which was found a silver-
gilt ebaliee and paten, was examined
4nrin|^ the laying down of the new
pavement in 1786. lliis pavement
M of marble and Huddlestone stone,
sod was derigned by Kent. (Melton,
I817-18i0, one of the most distin*
goUied prdates who has ever filled
3ie see^ was involved thronghoat his
MiKopate in Scottish aftuis, and in
the gnat stnig|de between Sdw. IL
and the BkaecAl was he who married
Edw. in. and Philippa of Hainault
in the liinsier in 1828.)
Xm. The stained. (^lose in the
nave demands ^P?*^ examination
and description. The g^aae throngh-
out the Minster was little injined
at the Befonnatkm; and Yoik sor*
rendered to Fbirfax in 16i4 with
the express stipulation that neither
dmrches nor other buildings should
be defaced. Hence the extraordinary
quantify of stained glass remiuning in
thecit^.
With the exception of some K E.
glass in the tracery and other parts
of the derestory windows, and of
some modem in that of the aisle
windows, the nave retains its original
gkiing— the most perf edk, and periiaps
the most extensive remainrof painted
^aBB of the eariy part of the Uth
cent., of which this country can boast.
Two windows in the aisles, and two
in the clerestory, are alone without
stained dan.
The £. E. gkas was possibly re-
moved from the windows of the Noi^
man nave when tiiat was demolished
at the beginning of the 14th cent
The earliest of this glsss is a portion
of a Jesse in the aecond window from
the west, on the north side of tiie
clerestory. ''The date of the ghus is
abontl200. It ia therefore much older
than the flreater part of the £. B.
glass at Canterbury Cathedral, to
whieh I do not think a date can be
assigned much earlier than the middle
of tibe 18th cent . . . Much E. B.
glass, varying in date from the be-
ginning to tiie middle of the 13th
cent, has been employed to fill the
wheel of tracery in the head of the
last-mentioned window, as well as
the wheels in the tracery of tiie five
next clerestory windows. The upper
tier of subjects in the lower lights of
the fifth and aeventh windows, count-
ing from the west, on the north aide
of the derestory, are also E. B. .An
E. E. subject is inserted in one of
the lower U£^ of the sixth derestory
82
BotUe 1. — Tark : Mnst^, Nave, Stained Olass.
window, coantingfrain the west. The
wheels in the tiacery of all but three
of the derestoiy windows, on the
south side of the nave, are likewise
filled witii E. E. glass; and £. E.
glass paintings are also to be foond
amongrt; the sabjeets in their lower
lights.**— C. WinsUm.
The rest of the glass in the dere-
story, and that in the aisles (except
some modem headings), is Decorated.
'* The general amngement and execn-
tion of the designs tibronghont this
part of the building are well worthy
of notice, as evincing the attention
paid by omr ancestors to general
effects in these matt^. The west
windows of the nare and aisles, of
which distant views may be obtained,
have their lower lights filled with
large figures and canopies ; while the
windows of the aisles, with one ex-
ception, are adorned with paintings
of a more complicated character, and
on a smaller scale, and which are
therefore better calculated for a near
inspection. Much of the plain geo-
metrical glazing; in the clerestory
windows is origmal, and, like that in
a similar position in Goloffne cathe-
dral, affords a proof that ue ancient
glaas-painteis £d not consider them-
selves bomid to finish patterns destined
to occupy a distant position as highly
as those placed nearer the eye." —
WinsUm,
Much of the Decorated glass in
the clerestory is heraldic, llie aisle
windows are for the most part
white pattern windows enriched with
coloured pictures and ornaments. The
only windows of a different character
are the two westernmost in the south
usle, one of which is a Jesse, having
below it the date 1789, when it was
probably restored by Peckett; the
other has tiiree large and very fine
figures with canopies— St. Christopher,
St. Lawrence, and another saint. The
earliest of the Decorated windows is
SiobaUy the first (from the east) in
lie north aisle. This, the subject of
which is the stoiy of St Catherine,
contains many shields of arms; and
from a comparison of them with a half-
effaced legend across the lower part of
the window, Messrs. Winston and Wd-
ford, who examined it very minutely,
condude that it was the gift of Peter
de Dene, a canon of York, during the
first years of the 14th cent All the
windows were in all probability special
gifts to the fabric; and the bell-
founders are said to have presented
that adjoining Peter de Denrs.
The small figures of saints in the
quatrefoils of the tracery in the south
aisle are very fine and should be
noticed. In the west window of this
aisle are figures of the Virgin, St
Catherine, and another saint The
west window of the north aisle has a
Crucifixion, with the Virgin and St.
John. Both these windows,the latter of
which is especially striking, should be
seen from the eastern end of the aisles.
The great west window was no
doubt the last to be filled with stained
glass. This was done in 1338, at
tiie expense of Archbp. Melton, who
gave 100 marks for the purpose. It
contains three distinct rows of figures :
bdow, eight Archbishops, unnamed;
above, ei^t saints, among whom St.
Peter, St. Paul, St James, and St.
Catherine are conspicuous ; and above
anun is a series of smaller figures.
The rich and solemn colouring of
this window, the fine arrangement of
figures and canopies, and the manner
in which the glass is adapted to the
graceful lines of the traceiy, render
it worthy of all possible study and
attention. It should be mentioned,
however, that many of the heads of
the figures are modem— the work of
Peckett, who was employed to restore
this window about the year 1747.
XIV. Taking the Minster in chro-
nological order, we pass from the nave
into the Chapter-hmue, The erection
of this, the most beautiful of English
Chapter-houses, has not been recorded,
and the series of Fabric Bdls does
not commence until long after its com-
Boute l,'-^York: Minster^ Chapter-house.
pletion. It is certain, however, that
it was in progress at the same time as
the nave; and hardly less certain,
from the character of its architecture,
and of the stained glass which fills
its windows, that it was completed
before the nave — at all events, before
the west front of the nave, with its
curvilinear tracery.* The form of tiie
Chapter-house, like those of Wells,
Salisbury, and Westminster, is octa-
gonal; but unlike those, and unlike
any, except the earlier Chapter-rooms,
in the form of a long parallelogram (as
at Exeter, Oxford, and Chester), it has
no central pillar. The vestibule opens
from the north end of the transept aisle,
and turns at riffht angles to the portal
of the Chanter-house itself. It is clear,
however, tnat both the north transept
and the Chapter-house were completed
before this vestibule was commenced.
"This is demonstrable from the fact
that parts of the north transept are
cut away to admit of the addition of
the vestibule, and that the very parapet
mouldings of the Chapter-house itself
appear within the vestibule, which has
been buUt against it." — Poole and
HugaU.
Tlie solemn effect of the stained
glass with which the windows of the
vestibule are filled, at once impresses
the visitor who passes into it from the
tnmsept. The portal has two tri-
foliated arches with square headings.
The wall above is covered with blind
tracery, resembling that of the win-
dows. Part of the £. E. buttress of the
* y«rion« dates have been assigned to the
Chapter-hoiue. Mr. Bmwne thinks 1ft was
begun about 1280, though not completed
tuitil Hr into the next centnry. Professor
WUUfl la of ofdnion that this date '* is too soon
bj fifty yean for the beginning " — Arch. HUt.
of Tork^p. 30 ; and his Judgment Is sostalned
ij that of the Rev. James Ralne, editor of
the ' York Fabric Rolls,' Pra&oe, p. xiv. On
the other hand, Messrs. Poole and Hngall
aaeert that the Oiapter-house " does not seem
more advanced than the crosses of Queen
Eleanor." and suppose " that both Chapter-
boQse and ve«Ubale were coiiclnded very
early in the fourteenth century."— ForX; Ca-
tkedral, p. S8.
[YorkshireJi
transept, a window arch, and a cornice
of dogtooth above it are here visible.
Below the lofty windows of the ves-
tibule (which resemble those of the
Chapter-house — see post) runs a wall
arcade, formed by a pointed arch
enclosing trefoiled arches.
The portal of tiie Chapter-house is
formed by two trefoiled arches, divided
by a central shaft These arches are
circumscribed by a main arch with a
quatrefoil in the tympanum, con-
taining two brackets for figures. In
a niche against the central shaft is a
mutilated figure of tiie Virgin and
Child of extreme beauty, (fte Pur-
beck marble of the sheits is fast de-
caying, whilst the Yorkshire stone is
stOl perfectly sound.) The Chapter-
house retains its original oaken door,
covered on the interior witii a kind of
trellis-work of wood, and on the ex-
terior with scrolled ironwork, deserv-
ing the closest attention. The scrolls,
which are cut into leafage and flowers,
are admirable in design, and terminate
at the top of the cbors in dragons
and lizard-like monsters. They should
be compared with the ironwork of
the cope -chest in the choir aisle,
which is of the same date. It is
said that four of these chests stood
originally in the centre of the Chapter-
house.
80002. of the sum left to the liGnster
by the late Dr. Beckwith, whose
monument is in the transept, were
appropriated by him to the restora-
tion of this Chapter-house. This
was accordingly commenced in 1844
Much of the Purbeck marble was
then renewed. The vault was restored
and decorated by Willement, and the
floor was kid with Minton's tiles.
All traces of the ancient painting and
gildine were then unhappily obli-
terated; but no amount of restora-
tion has as yet deprived this building
of its right to stand at the head (3
English Chapter-houses. It is still
fully entitled to the distinction im-
plied in the ancient verse pamted on
the left side of the entrance, — *<Ut
H
BofUe 1. — rot*; Minster^ Chapter-house.
Bosa flos flonun sic est domus ista
domomin."
Each bay of the Chapter-house
contains a lofty window, with magni-
ficent geometrical tracery of somewhat
late character. Each circle in the
headings has nine cusped foliations.
Below, runs an arcade of wonderful
beauty. There are six arches in each
li)ay ; and each arch contains a recessed
semi-octagonal seat, with attached
shafts of Purbeck marble at the
angles and at the back. In front of
each angle rises an entirely detached
shaft of the same marble. Each seat
18 sroined, with a boss of hollow
wonced leafage in the centre, and the
capitals of the Purbeck shafts are
worked in varied leafage of ivy,
maple, oak, and other trees. The
overhanging canopy has two pendants
of leafage in front of each recess.
The canopy, which is nibled, is en-
nched with finials of oak-leaves ; and
a cornice of vine-leaves and grapes
bends round above it, following the
line of the recesses. The effect of
this superb mass of enrichment is
perhaps unique. The arrangement is
unlike that of any other English
Chapter-house, especially in the form
of tiie seats, and in that of the cornice
above the canopy.
At the intersections of the gables,
and at the angle between each stall,
are grotesque heads and figures of
wonderful spirit and variety. Besides
fiiihwi^lfl and birds there occur human
heads, men fighting with monsters
and with each other, besides several
monastic figures, full of the satire
in which the secular clergy were
alwavs readv to indulge. Birds and
snuill animals are perched among the
leaves of some of the pendent bosses.
The whole of this sculpture will repay
the very closest examination. It is
distinguished bv that careful imitation
of nature which belongs to the work
of the early part of the 14th cent. :
•nd in l^e spirit of the heads and
grotesques, ana the graceful arrange-
inent of Wage, it is exceeded by no
other sculpture of this period, either
in England or on the Continent.
The entrance portal should be
examined from the interior. Above
it is a wall arcade of very beautiful
design, with thirteen brackets for
figures of the Saviour (or the Virgin
and Child) and the Apostles. These —
which are traditionally said to have
been of silver gilt — have disappeared.
Two angels remain at the sides above.
A wall-passage, with square-headed
openings in the splays, runs round
below the windows of the Chapter-
house. Between each bay, clustered
vaulting shafts run to the roof, which
is of wood. The vaulting ribs pass
to a central boss, on which is the
Lamb bearing a flae^ with a cross.
This is modem. The roof, before
the restoration in 1845, was "richly
painted with the efiigies of kings,
bishops, &c., and large silver knots of
carved wood at the imiting of the
timbers, all much defaced and sullied
by time." — Oent
The stained glass with which the
windows are filled adds not a little to
the solemnity of the building. They
are white windows with coloured
medallions, and shields in the traceiy,
some of which are modem. All this
glass " is of the time of Edward II. and
commencement of the reign of Ed-
ward in., and is an extremely beau-
tiful specimen of early Decorated
work." — Win^n. The E. window is
alone modem, and the work of Messrs.
Baraett, of York. " If it does not pro-
duce so satisfactory an effect as the
original windows, this arises not from
the fault of the artist, but from the im-
possibility of procuring at the present
day a material similar in texture to
the glass of the 14th cent." — Winston.
The subjects in this window are from
the life of our Lord. The borders of
the ancient windows, and all the de-
tails of the glass, afford admirable
studies and examples, and should be
carefully examined. The windows in
the vestibule are of the same date,
and consist chiefly of single figures
Bottte l.—Torh: Mmter, Choir and Presbytery.
35
under canopies. Some E. E. ^
of the same character and date as
that in the ** Five Sisters " (in the N.
transept), has been inserted in the
traceiy of the second window from
the door, in the vestibule.
XV. Leaving for the present the
central tower and the rood-screen,
we pass into the Choir, After the
completion of the nave, it was de-
termined to replace Archbishop
Roger's late Norman choir with one
of greater size and magnificence;
and, whilst so doing, to provide a
j^ace ** where the mass of the Blessed
Virgin might be fittingly celebrated.''
Archbishop Boger's choir had short
rastem transepts, and terminated,
eastward, two bays beyond them.
The design for the new work ex-
tended it three bays towards the
east, and widened the whole choir
and presbytery by making the aisle
walls run in a line, east and west,
with the outer walls of the short
N<ninan transepts. The presbyteiy
and Lady-chapel, forming the four
easternmost bays of the existing
building, were first completed,* and
it is probable that until their com-
pletion the Norman choir was not
interfered with, and was still avail-
able for service. Afterwards this
choir was entirely removed, and that
which now exists was continued from
the new presbytery, until it joined
the E. £. transepts and the central
tower.
The first stone of the new pres-
• The tenn *• Presbytery " is here used, as
It has heen by Professor Willis and others
who have written on the Minster, to denote
the ftmr eastenmiost bays of the building,
inctndiiig the Lady-chapel.'* But strictly
spiking, no part of this was ever Included
In the triM presbyteiy, which Is the part of
the chtucfa between the " Chorus cantorum "
and the high altar, set apart for the deigy
who are ministering at the latter. At York,
before the Befoimatlon, and Indeed long
afterwards, the high altar stood at the eastern
end of the J^fih bay ; so that what Is here
called the presbytery was behind It, and
toaot the retrocMr with Its aisles.
bytery was laid on the 30th of July,
1361, by Archbishop Thoresby (135^
1373), who had already granted
timber for the completion of the
ceiling of the nave, and had been
otherwise a considerable benefactor
to the fabric. The presbytery is,
however, his especial memorial. To-
ward its construction he gave the
stone of his manor-house at Sher-
bum, which had fallen into decay,
besides a yearly sum of 200Z. during
the remamder of his life. The
amount of Archbishop TTioresby's
contribution towards this part of the
Minster cannot be estimated, " in the
money of the present day, at a lower
sum than 37,0002., and this in all
probability, is considerably imder the
mark." — Maine. Large additional
sums were raised by grants of indul-
gence to all benefactors, by taxes laid
on the Chapter clergy, and by subsi-
dies levied on the Church property
throughout the diocese. Brief-bearers
(brevigeri) were also sent through
the country to beg for the fabric.
The presbytery was accordinrfy com-
pleted before the death of Thoresby
in 1373, within twelve years from
its7commencement. After his death
the work remained for some time at
a standstill, owing apparently to the
loss of the Archbishop's large dona-
tions, and to the troubles of his
successor, Alexander Neville (1374-
1388), who died an exile from York.
The choir seems to have been com-
menced about the year 1380, and in
1385 the Chapter obtained a lease
of the quany of Huddlestone for 80
years, showing that they were in want
of stone, and that the work was in
progress- The walls were completed
about 1400, and the roof and wooden
vaulting were finished at the beginning
of 1405.
The choir and presbytery thus
completed were perhaps the most
magnificent works which, iip to this
date, had been attempted in England ;
and it is quite possible, as has been
suggested by Mr. BAine,that William
d2
86
BoiUe 1. — York: Minster, Choir and Presbytery.
of Wykeham, at Winchester (1367-
1404), and Walter Skirlaw, at Dur-
ham (1388-1405), both of whom were
connected with the ch. of York, and
were intimate friends of Archbishop
Thoresby, were encouraged to under-
take similar works in their own
cathedrals by the beautiful structure
" they would gaze upon as it rose
from the ground at York." The
visitor, on entering the choir, is first
struck by the great eastern window,
the largest in England, the lower
part of which is seen through the
pierced altar-screen. The vast height
(102 ft.) and width (99^ ft) of the
choir, impress the mind with a sense
of grandeur, which steadily increases
as we building becomes better known.
Other English choirs are more pic-
turesque ; none is more majestic tnan
this of York.
The general design of both choir
and presbvteiy repeats that of the
nave. There are two great divi
sions, the lower containing the pier
arches, the upper the clerestory, the
high sills 01 which form the tri-
forium passage. The 4 easternmost
bays (3 of them' beyond the present
altar-screen), forming the presbytery
and Irfidy-chapel, completed during
Thoresby's episcopate, although they
agree in general character with the
actual choir, exhibit in their details
very distinct evidence of their earlier
date. Standing toward the upper end
of the choir, where the clerestory of
both choir and presbytery may be
seen at once, the contrast pointed out
by Professor Willis will oe at once
clear. The clerestory windows were
no doubt intended to match. *^ The
number of lights are the same in
each, and so is the system of subordi-
nation, by which two lights on each
side are cut off, and included in a
separate arch. (This, indeed, is also
derived from the nave.) But in the
presbytery a transom crosses the tra-
cery, and connects these arches. In
the choir, on the contrary, the two
central monials run upwitJi decided
Perp. character to meet the window
arch. In the presbytery these mo-
nials run up, but in the subordinate
order of mouldings only, so as not
to be prominent. The head of the
presbytery window is occupied bv a
series' of compartnients that recline
right and left fan-wise, and have
many flowing lines in them, strangely
mixed with others of decided Perp.
character. But in the choir the
whole of the filling up is of the most
decided Perp. character : and shows
that, when this part of the building
had been reached, the Perp. style had
become fully established." — WtUitt.
In the presbyteiy the clerestory
passage runs outside the windows;
m the choir, within the glass.
The small heads which terminate
the outer mouldings of the pier arches,
and the general design of capitals and
foliage, are imitated from the nave.
On the north side of the choir, how-
ever, the capitals of the piers have
some figures inserted among the foli-
age which deserve notice. ^&. Browne
has found in them "the principal
events of the tragedy which ended in
the death of Abp. Scrope." But the
choir was no doubt completed before
his death in 1405; and there is no
authority whatever for the appropria-
tion.
Against each pier of the presbytery
is a bracket and enriched canopy.
These do not appear in the choir
proper ; but two of them, happily un-
restored, remain on the piers adjoining
the altar-screen. In the spandrels of
the main arches of both choir and
presbytery are shields of arms, slung
from turbaned heads. They are
chiefly those of benefactors, and of
other persons connected with the
Cathedral.
XVI. The fire of 1829 destroyed,
as has already been mentioned, all
the woodwork of the choir, includ-
ing the roof, which was of wood,
like that of the nave. The pre-
sent vault is an exact reproduction
Bouie l.—York: Mimter, Shrine of St. William. 37
of that which formerly existed, and
is a very rich Heme. The stalls are
also dose copies of the old ones ; and
c(»6idering that the restoration under
Sir B. Smirke was effected before
the revival of Gk>thic architecture, it
is highly creditable. The original
stone altar-screen was destroyed by
the fall of heavy beams, and by the
general effect of the fire; but that
which has replaced it is of veiy great
beant;^, and *' so perfect a restoration
that it may be treated as a study
of Perp. screen-work." The altar
now stands immediately in front of
this screen. Until the year 1726,
however, it stood one bay further
westward; and at its back was a
wooden reredos, rising very high, so
as to obstruct the view of the east
window, ** handsomely painted and
gilt, wiUi a door at each end ^ opening
into the space between it and the
stone screen. On the top of the rere-
dos was a music gallery. The space
behind it is said to have served as a
vestiT "where the archbishops used
to robe themselves at the time of their
enthronization ; '* but it seems to
have been so prepared for the enthro-
nization alone of Abp. Kempe in
1427 ; and Professor Willis suggests
that it was in aU probability the place
where the portable f eretrum or shrine
of SI William was kept. On the
removal of the wooden reredos by
Dean Finch in 1726, the altar was
placed in its present position.
The samted Abp. William of York
(114B-11M) was a son of Count
Herbert, whose wife, Emma, was
sister of King Stephen. His election
in 1143 incurred the violent opposi-
tion df the clergy (and especiuly of
the Cistercians), who complained that
it had been effected by court influence.
After some struggles, and after his
consecration by his uncle Henry of
Blois, Bp. of Winchester, William
was formally deposed in 1147 by the
Cistereian Pope, Eugenius HI.; and
tiie Abbot of Fountains, Henry
Mardac, was consecrated to the see.
On Murdac's death in 1158, William
was re-elected, and the new Pope
Anastasius granted him the pall. He
went at once to York, but died there
30 days after his entiy. The suffer-
ings and gentle character of the Abp.
won for him genwal svmpathy;
and as the Church of York had
no saint peculiar to itself, it was
anxious to procure his canoniza-
tion. This was not effected till
1227. (On his entry into York the
wooden bridge over the Onse gave
way, owing to the multitudes which
thronged it. William is said to
have saved them by a miracle; and
a chapel ded. to him was afterwards
erected on the site.) Abp. William
was interred at iurst in the nave
of the Minster; but on the 8th
of January, 1283-4, his remains were
translated by Archbishop Wickwaine,
in the presence of Edward I., his
Queen Meanor, and a great company
of prelates and nobles. The cost of
translation was defrayed by Antony
Bek, *<le plus vaillant clerk de
roiaume," who on the same day was
consecrated to the see of Durham.
The relics were borne into what was
still the Norman choir of Abp.
Boger ; and on the completion of the
existing choir they no doubt found a
resting-place in the position assigned
to the shrine by Mr. Willis. The
shrine itself was richly decorated;
and the head of the saint was kept by
itself in a reli(}uaiy of silver, gilt, and
covered with jewels. Layton, Henry
Vin.'s commissioner, who was Dean
of York, obtained a special grant of
this reliquary for the use of the cathe-
dral. Thie relics of Sir William seem
to have been interred at this time
near their ancient resting-place in
the nave; where, in B&y, 1732,
Drake, the historian of York, found a
leaden box containing " a number of
bones huddled carelesuy together with-
out any order or arrangement."* Until
the Beformation this original place
of sepulture seems to have been
marked by a cenotaph at which offer-
88
Boute 1. — Torh: Minster^ Choir Aisles^
ings were made, as well as at the
sluriiie itself.
The ea^le lectern in the choir was
the gift of Dr. Calcraft in 1686. For
the stained glass in the clerestory
windows, see post, § xxii.
XVn. The aisles exhibit the same
differences as the choir and presby-
tery ; the 4 easternmost hays being of
the earlier date ; the transeptal bay,
with those westward of it, of th'e
later. The windows of the eastern
bays are more acutely pointed than
the others ; and their tracery is less
distinctly Perp. The windows are of
three lights each; and the slender
shafts with enriched capitals, dividing
the lights, should be noticed, as adding
to the effect. The wall-spaces between
the windows are divided by a group
of vaulting shafts, on either side of
which are two ranges of broad,
canopied niches, with pedestals for
statues. Below runs a plain arcade
lining the wall. The vaulting shafts,
which terminate above in capitals of
foliage, have lower capitals, or rings
of leafage, at the top of the arcade
stringcourse. The vaulting itself (of
stone^ is plain, with small leaf bosses
at th^ intersections.
The easternmost bay of each aisle
is narrower than the others, and the
side windows have only two lights.
The eastern window's are of three, and
in no way differ from the rest At
the angles (N.E. and S.E.) are doors
opening to staircases which lead up-
wards to a passage through the base
of the eastern aisle windows, and
thence ascend to the galleries in front
of the great east window of the pres-
bytery. At the east end of the north
aisle was the altar of St. Stephen ; at
the end of the south, the altar of All
Saints.
The lesser or eastern transepts
(which do not project beyond' the
aisles, and should raUier be called
transeptal bays) belong to the second
period — that in which the choir was
erected. They represent, in effect,
the transeptal towers of Abp. Bogers
Norman choir ;* and may be reckoned
among the most origixud features of
the Minster. ''The exquisite and
unique effect of the tall windows,
rising almost off the floor into the
roof, and occupying the whole width
of the transept, is beyond all praise ;
it is one of those felicitous efforts
of architectural skill in which the
creative genius of a mastor-hand is
recognised."— Poofo and HugaU. For
theglass, see § xxii.
The lower part of the window (like
the great- east window) has a double
{)lane of tracery; the inner or open
ights being exactly similar to those
in which the glass is fixed. At each
side of the window are, above, three
rich canopies and brackets ; and below,
two lessor ones, like those of the aisle
windows. A lofty arch opens from
the transept £. and W. ; and another
of the same height opens to the choir.
Above this arch the triforium gallery
passes. A second arch, with side
shafts, level with the clerestory
windows, rises from the gallery to
the roof, and through it the upper
part of the transept window is visible
from the choir. Above the arches,
E. and W., is a window of the same
height as the clerestory.
At the spandrels of the arches are
shields of arms.
XVIII. The general character of
the so-called presbytery, or retro-
• The choir of York Minster, an restored or
rebuilt by the first Norman Archbp. Thomas
(1070-1100), was short and apsidal. Archbp.
Koger (1154^-1 181) took it down, and rebuilt It
of mucn greater size, and on a different plan.
This late Normaii choir had a square eastern
end, and short eastern transeptal towers, the
foundations of which remain in the crypt
Before his elevation to the see of Yoi^lc* Roger
had been Archdeacon of Canterbury; and
many peculiarities of the ** glorious choir of
Conrad " in that cathedral (completed 1130,
destroyed by fire 11T4) were Imitated at
York. Among them was the double transept.
Canterbury, however, had towers flanking the
choir, N. an.1 S.,a8 well as a second or eastern
transept. At York the flanking towers were
made to perform the part of tnuuepta also.
BaiUe 1. — York: Minster, East Windoio.
chair, has been already described.
The canopies against the piers, and
those under the east window, should
be remarked and compared. The
stone carving in this part of the
cathedral was greatly injured by
the fire of 1829; and five of the
canopies against the piers "were
renewed by John Scott, the Minster
mason ; when changes were very in-
jodiciously admitted into them. The
wanton alteration, even of a minute
feature, must always be deprecated
in such instances There is less
difference between the two ends of
the choir, at an interval of nearly fifty
yean from one another, than has been
wantonly produced between canopies
on adjoining pillars, whose place in
the history of the church is identical '
— Poole and HugdH. The original
canopies, unrestored, remain on the
piers adjoining the altar-screen.
The great JSad toindovBl—ihe largest
window in the kingdom that retains
its original glaxing* — ^is one of the
chief glories of the Minster, and is
best examined here. It is impossible
to look up at it without feelings of
increasing wonder and admiration.
In itself the design is fine and un-
usual. Almost filling the entire bay,
the window rises quite to the roof,
in three lofty stages, the two lower
having an inner plane of open arches,
throagh which, at the base, runs a
passage, with doors at the angles
opening to a staircase in the buttress
iorrets of the window, by which
access is gained to a second gallery,
with a parapet in front, running
acn»6 at the foot of the highest stage.
The elaborate tracery which fills the
upper part of the window is of the
«une undecided character (Perp. with
some flowing details) which has
already been noticed in the windows
* The K. wtodow of Qloncester Cathedral
ill loniewlut larger, bnt is partiAlIy (in the
lover part) nndued. The Oloncester window
U about 73 f U high, and 38 wide. The York
wfsdow, which Is entirely glazed, about 76 ft
high and 33 wide.
of the clerestory and aisles. The
jambs of the window, in each stage
(within the plane of open arches)
were enriched with fig^es, for which
the brackets and canopies remain.
The under -part of the gallery is
covered with panelled tracery. Above,
in the window-jambs, are heads of
saints, with canopies, arranged at in-
tervals ; and small canopied brackets^
with fig^es of angels, form a con-
tinuous outer moulding. (See § xxlL
for the glass.)
The narrow wall-space on each side
of the window has a double row of
brackets, with canopies, ascending in
four tiers. Under the window the
wall is lined with a plain arcade
nearly hidden by monuments. In
the centre, above the place of the
altar, are three canopied niches. At
the base are figures of angels, kings,
and bishops ; all deserving examina-
tion.
The view from the upper gallery
of this window is very stnking. The
west window of the nave, especially,
is best seen from this place.
Beneath this window was the altar
of the Lady-chapel, founded by Abp.
Thoresby, and before which he was
himself interred, in the midst of the
magnificent building he had so largely
assisted in raising. Thoresby (1352-*
1373), one of the best and greatest
prelates of his age, had been employed
by Edward III. on various pabUc
matters before his elevation to the
see of York. He was chancellor
from 1349 to 1356. His services to
the state were great, and those to his
diocese greater. He was indefatigable
in reforming and instructing it. In
his time, and greatly by his influence,
the long contention between the
northern and southern primates was
ended, and the Pope named
rimate of England, and the
other " Primate of all England." The
remains of several of the Abn.'s pre-
decessors, removed from the Norman
choir, were re-interred here, under
monmnents which were made for
40
BofUe 1. — Tork : Minster^ Monuments,
them at Thoresby^s expense. These
fonned a series of brasses, the greater
part of which were destroyed during
the civil war ; and the rest (with the
stones containing the matrices) dis-
appeared when tiie choir was newly
paved.
XIX. Of the TnonumenU in the
north aisle of the choir andpresby-
teiT, the most remarkable is the
following: In the last bay of the
aisle, westward, and against the wall
of the transept aisle, is a high tomb,
recessed, with the effigy of William
de Eaifidiy second son of Edw. m.,
bom 1336, died 1344, aged 8. The
effigy is finely wrought. The prince
wears a short tunic, covered with a
rich leaf ornament, and a mantle, the
border of which is foliated. The shoes
are diapered; the flowing hair is
bound with a small coronet. The
face is much broken. In the front of
the high tomb are two panels of pecu-
liar tracery. The canopy above and
behind the figure has been powdered
with the ^niagenuta. The fact
that one of Queen Philippa's children
was interred in the Minster probably
accounts for the gift of a richly em-
broidered bed belonging to her, which
was made to the chapter either by
the Queen herself or oy Archbishop
Thoresbv.
On the S. side of the aisle is
the monument, with effigy, of Abp.
Bavage (1601-150T)--a great builder
at Cawood and at ^croobv, a courtier,
and a passionate lover of field sports.
The very rich mitre deserves notice.
The frieze with angels bearing shields,
and the hollowed recesses at the sides,
indicate the lateness of the work. In
the next bay is the entrance to the
crypt In front stand two large cope-
chests, said to have been brought from
the Chapter-house. They are of the
14th cent., and the flowing ironwork
with which they are covered should be
compared with that of the Chapter-
house doors.
Beyond the transept, the arcade
lining the wall below the windows is
nearly hidden by frightful monumolits
of the 17th and 18th cents. The first
is that of Sir Henry Sellaslg, without
a date, but about 1630. Beyond are
— Margaretta Byng, " Londoniensis ;
ter vidua, pia, honesta, proba," in very
rich ruff and dress, kneeling before a
desk; 1600. Sir WiUiam Ingram
and wife, 1625; half figures, under
a canopy, gilt and colour^. Sir Wil-
liam was *' of the King's Council in
the North." Charles Houxird, Earl
of Carlisle, died 1684; ambassador
(1663-4) to Bussia, Sweden, and Den-
mark. Admiral Medley^ died 1757 ;
with bust and weeping cherubs. Dr.
Dealtry, died 1773, with a figure of
Hygeia lamenting, and some ^lifying
verses below. Sir Oeorge SamU^ died
1784 ; a full-length by Fisher of York.
Sir George represented the coimty of
York in Parliament for 25 years, and
this statue was erected bv public sub-
scription. Dr. Brearvy rrebendary of
York, died 1735, with an inscription
recording his descent and connec-
tions ; and Lionel Ingram^ a boy of 2
years old, son of Sir Arthur Ingram,
with a remarkable Latin epitaph — a
very good example of a sxnall Jaco-
baean monument. At the end of the
aisle, imder the window, is the monu-
ment of Abp, Sterne (1664-1683).
The Abp., robed and mitred, is under
a canopy, looped up at the sides;
very ugly cherubs support him. Sterne
had been the chaplain of Abp. Laud,
and attended him on the scaffold. He
assisted Walton in the Polyglot Bible
(published in 1657); and is one of
tnose to whom the authorship of the
< Whole Duty of Man * has been attri-
buted. The Abp. was the great-
grandfather of Laurence Sterne, the
novelist.
Adjoining is the plain tomb of
Frances Cecil. Countess of Cumber-
Und; died 1643.
XX. In the presbytery the monu-
ments are — ^In the bay between the
aisle and the Lady-chapel, Arch-
BaiUe 1. — York: Minster ^ Monuments,
41
bukop Serope (1398 ; beheaded, 1404,
June 8. Serope is the "Abp. of
York" of Shakspeare's * Henry IV.,'
Parts I. and 11. He had been in-
debted to Richard U. for all his
preferments, and joined the Mow-
brajs, Percys, and others of the
great northem barons who rose in
arms against Henry IV. in 1405.
They were led to disband their forces
by a stratagem of the Elarl of West-
moreland: but the Abp. was seized
and taken to the king at Pontefract,
whence he was brought to Bishop-
tborpe, condemned in his own hall,
and at once beheaded. See po«t,
Bishopthorpe). This is a plain tomb,
restored after the fire of 1829. Such
was the indignation felt throughout
Yorkshire at Scrope's "legalised
mnrder,^ that his virtues (which were
in truth not small — ^he was a man of
letters, and of a " holy life ") became
magnified, in popular estimation, to
an extraordinary degree, and his tomb
here was sought by thousands as that
of a saint. Offerings were made at it ;
and miracles were said to have occurred
before it. The offerings were for-
bidden by an order from the king,
HeniT IV.; and the officers of the
Cathedral were directed to pull down
the screen (clansure de charpenterie)
whidi snmnmded the monument, and
to pile wood and stone over the tomb
(between the pier and the £. wall),
so as to prevent the access of the
people. The order was not, however,
strictly obeyed. Offerings continued
to be made ; and at the Reformation
the treasnres of St Stephen s Chapel
(adjoining the tomb on the N. side),
in which they w^ere deposited, were
among the richest in the cathedral.
The^ropes had their chantry there,
and many of the Archbishop's an-
eestoiB liad been interred m this
chapel. At the same time with Arch-
bishop Serope were buried in the
Minster (where is not knoiKu) Thomas
Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, and Sir
John Lamplugh, both of whom were
beheaded on the same charges.
Under the next bay, between the
presbytery and the aisle, is the
Cenotaph of Archbishop Markham
(1777-1807), buried in the cloisters
of Westminster Abbey. The top is
a slab of black marble, inlaid with a
cross and the inscription, " Equidem
ego novi redemptorem meum vivere.**
At the sides are shields of arms.
The altar platform of the Lady-
chapel is raised on two steps. Under
the B. window are: — (1.) Towards
the N., Archbishop Accepted Frewen
(16G0-1664, the firat Abp. after the
Restoration. He was a member of
a Sussex family, rejoicing in such '
puritanical names as '^ Thankfid "
and " Accepted "), in cap, rochet, and
black gown. (2.) Agamst the wall,
Frances MatQiew, wife of Abp.
Matthew, died 1G29. She was the
daughter of William Barlow, Bishop
of Chichester ; and one of four sisters,
all of whom married bishops. (3.)
ArchbuSiop Sharpe (1691-1714\ re- .
dining, with a book in his left nand ;
below is a long inscription. In front,
and projecting over the steps, are : —
(1.) towards the N., Archbishop
Rotherham (1480-1500\ a perpen-
dicular high tomb, witii quatrefoils
at the sides, and white marble drapery
spread over the top. The tomb was
restored after the fire by Lincoln
College, Oxford, of which Archbishop
Rotherham was the second founder.
He had been translated to York from
Lincoln, and died of the plague at
his palace of Cawood. This Abp.
was chancellor at the death of Edward
IV., and was imprisoned by Richard
ni. for his devotion to the widowed
queen and her children. Ho was after-
wards restored to favour. (2.) The
effigy of Abp. Thf/kts Matthew (died
1628), formerly on his tomb, which is
under the second arch from the east,
on the S. side of the presbytery.
(3.) A monument with a floriated
cross, and the bases of pillars which
once supported a canopy. It has
been attributed to Archbishop Sewal
de BoviU (died 1258), but his tomb,
42
Moute 1. — York: Minster^ Monuments.
there can be little doubt, remains in
thegreat S. transept.
lie most easterly bay, between
the Lady-chapel and the S. aisle, is
mied with the tomb and canopy of
Archbishop Boioet (1407-1423— a
great lover of hospitality. 80 tuns of
claret were annually used in his
household). Above the elliptical arch
of the canopy, the sides of which are
panelled, are three very rich tab-
ernacles, with figures. The whole
deserves attention, but has been much
shattered.
In the next bay to the W. is the
high tomb of Archbishop Tdbieu
Matthew (1606-1628), with shields
in the panels, and a black marble
top, restored after the fire. The
Archbishop, who was famous for his
wit and " cheerful sharoness " in dis-
course, was a special favourite with
Elizabeth and James. Between this
mont and that of Abp. Markham is
an altar-tomb, with the effigy, by
Noble, of Abp. Musgrave (1847-1860).
XXI. In the souih aisle, the mon-
uments are : — At the east end, under
the window, that of the Hon. Thos.
Watson Wenttoorth (d. 1728), by
Guelfi, of Bome. It displays figures
of his son and widow. Against the
S. wall is a grand and stately mon-
ument of William Wentworih, Earl
of Strafford (b. 1626, d. 1695), son of
the great Earl beheaded in 1641.
The Earl and his second wife,
Henrietta de la Rochefoucauld, stand
on either side of an altar. Below is
Abp. iamjpZti^^ (1688-1691); an up-
right figure m a niche, bearing the
crosier. Lamplugh, the then Bp. of
Exeter, hastened from that city to
Whitehall on the news of the landing
of William, after exhorting his clergy
to remain faithful to mng James.
He was rewarded with the see of
York, which had been two years
vacant ; but his loyalty to the Stuarts
did not prevent him from officiating
at the coronation of William. Abp.
Matthew HuiUm (1747-1757) reclines
on his side, in cap, rochet, and black
g>wn. He was the second Matthew
utton who became Abp. of York;
both were members of the famUy of
Hutton of Marske, near Richmond.
The monument of Sir William Gee
(1611), who is kneeling, with his two
wives, is a good example of its time»
Sir William was secretary to James I.,
and one of his privy council.
On the choir side of the aisle,
against one of the arches of the crypt,
is the monument of Abp. Ddben
(1683 -1686) ; a reclining figure, robed
and mitred. Before his ordination,
in 1656, the future Abp. was active
in arms on the side of the Royalists.
He was standard-bearer at Marston
Moor, and was severely wounded
there, and afterwards during the
defence of York.
W. of the iron grille, which crosses
the aisle, are some very striking
modern memorial tablets. (1.) For
Major OUfiddy 5th Bengal Cavalry ;
Lieut-Colonel Willougnby Moore,
6th Inniskillings ; and those who
perished with 9icm in the Europa
transport, burnt at sea, June 1, 1854.
This displays a fine sculpture (part of
the scene on board) in high relief,
well arranged, and very striking.
Executed by Phillip, from a design
by G. G. Scott (2.) A monument
to *' perpetuate the remembrance of
two members of this cathedral ch.
departed io the mercy of God —
William Mason, canon residentiary,
and Vicar of Aston, whose poetry
will be his most enduring monmnent ;
and his nephew, William H. Dixon,
canon resid., and rector of Bishop-
thorpe (b. 1783, d. 1854)." The
monument-, which is much enriched,
is of worked brass, with knobs and
fruitage of cornelians. On the top of
the gable, supported by double shafts,
is a figure of the Good Shepherd : at
the sides are female figures, one with
a cup, the other with a book. Exec
by Skidmore, of Coventry, from
Scott's design. (3, 4, and 6.) Tablets
to the officers and men of the 33rd
Bottte 1. — York : Mituter, Stained Glass.
4S
Regt. who fell during the Bnssian
war, 1854-56— to those of the 84th
Begt. (York and Lancaster) who fell
during the Indian Mutiny; and to
those of the 51st who fell in the war
with Burmah, 1852-53. (6.) A veir
good brass to the officers and men of
the 19th Begt. (1st York N. Riding)
who fell in the Crimean war. At the
top is a figure of the Saviour with
hands raised in benediction; at the
sides are St. Michael, St George,
Gideon, Joshua, Judais Maccabseus,
and the Centurion. Exec, hy Hard-
man, from Scotts design. The great
superiority of these military me-
morials oyer most others of their
class deserves especial notice.
XXn. The stained glass in the choir
and its aisles is throughout Perpen-
dicular. Before noticing the windows
in detail it will be well to quote
Mr. Winston^s general observations.
'"' The earliest Perpendicular glass
in the Cathedral is contained iu the
third window from the E. in the S.
aisle of the choir ; in the 3rd and 4th
windows from the E., in the N.
clerestory of the choir; and in the
4th clerestory window from the E.,
on the opposite side of the choir.
These windows are of the close of the
14th cent. There is also an early
Perpendicular Jesse in the 3rd window
from the W. in the S. aisle of the
choir. The date of the E. window
ol the choir is well known ; a contract
for glazing it in 3 years was made in
1405. Tins window is one of the
best executed that I have ever seen ;
the beauty of the figures, however,
cannot be fuDy appreciated without
inspecting them closely from the
gallery near the window. The other
windows of the choir aisles, eastward
of the small eastern transepts, as well
as the glass in the lancet windows on
the £. side of the great Western
transepts, appear to be likewise of the
time of Henry TV. Some of these
windows may probably be a few
years earlier than the E. window.
AH the rest of the glass in the choir
is of the reigns of Henry V. and
Henry VI. ; the greater part belong-
ing to the latter reign. The chief
peculiarity that I have observed in
these windows is that the white glass,
which enters so largely into their
composition, is, generally speaking,
less green in tint than usual, especially
in the western and southern parts of
England. Mr. Browne has informed
me that it clearly appears, from the
Fabric Bolls, that this white glass is
of EngU(sh manufacture; which cir-
cumstance may perhaps serve to ac-
count for it whiteness.
The contract for glazing the great E,
udndow, between the Dean and Chap-
ter, and John Thornton, of Coventry,
glazier, is dated Dec. 10, 1405.
The subjects in the upper division
of the window, above the gallery, are
from the Old Testament; beginning
with the Creation, and ending with
the death of Absalom. All below
are from the book of Bevelation ; ex-
cept those in the last or lowest tier,
which are representations of kings
and bishops. The tracery lights are
filled with figures of prophets, kings,
and saints, with angels in the upper-
most divisions, below a small figure
of the Saviour in judgment, at the
apex of the window.
It has already been shown that the
tracery of this superb window might
have been completed long hetore
1405, when Thornton commenced his
glazing. "The plan pursued in the
carrying on of works of this descrip-
tion seems to have been to fill the
windows with linen cloth, which gives
a sufficient light, or with plain glass,
until some benefactor could be loxmd
to furnish the glazing, or until it was
convenient to employ funds for the
purpose."— TFtHts.
The stained glass in the North
aisle, E. of the small transept, is of the
time of Henry IV. The E. window
of the aisle has, in the upper part, the
Crucifixion, with St, John and the
Blessed Virgin, and a figure of St.
u
Boute 1. — Yark: Minster ^ Crypt.
James below, with other subjects at
the sides. The St. James seems to
have belonged originally to another
window. The magnificent window of
the small transept dates probably
from the reign of Henry V. (1413-
1422). It contains subjects from the
life of St. William of York and repre-
sentations of miracles attributed to
his intercession. The windows west-
ward of this are of somewhat later
date. They seem to have been given
by Thomas Parker, Canon of York,
circ. 1423 ; in the border of this win-
dow are repeated the words Thomas
Parker, with a honnd collared between
them — ^this must have been his badge ;
— ^by Robert Wolveden, Treasurer of
York, who d. in 1432-3, leaving 20Z.
to the fabric, — ^his name is repeated
in the borders ; — and by Abp. Bowet
(d. 1423), whose name and arms occur
repeatedly in the glass.
In the South aisle, the E. window
is temp. Henry IV. The subjects
(from the life of a saint) are not
easily interpreted. In the upper part
of the central light is the figure oi an
Apostle, apparently of the same date
and character as the figure of St.
James in the opposite window. The
window adjoining this, S., has been
filled with ♦ " a very beautiful glass-
painting, of the last half of the 16th
century. It was presented to the
cathedral by Lord Carlisle in 1804,
and was brought from a ch. at Boucn "
(the ch. of St. Nichohis\ "The
design (the Salutation of Mary and
Elisabeth) is evidently taken from a
painting, I believe by Baroccio (who
d. in 1612, aged 84), but the colouring
and execution have been varied to
suit the nature of the material em-
ployed. I infer from the column-
like arrangement of the groups, as
well as the actual division lines of the
glass, that this work was originally
painted for a four-light window." —
Winston. The superb colouring of
this window deserves especial notice.
The third window from the E. in this
aisle is of earlier date, and contains a
fine figure of Edward HI. The tran-
sept window was probably the gift of
the executors of Thomas Longley, Bp.
of Durham (d. 1437). It displays
subjects from the life and miracles
of St. Cutiibert, and figures of the
principal members of the House of
Lancaster. The next window (with
a tree of Jesse) is earlier, and no
doubt dates from before the end of
the 14th cent. The two remaining
windows, one with designs from the
life of the Virgin, the other with
grand single figures under canopies,
are perhaps temp. Henry VI.
In the clerestory windows of the
choir, the earliest dass is in the 3rd
and 4th from the E., on the N. side,
and in the 4th from the E., opposite.
This is of the end of the 14th century.
The rest is later.
XXin. The Crupt is entered from
the upper part of the choir aisles.
Before the fire of 1829 the only crypt
that was known to exist occupied one
compartment and a half of the middle
aisle, under the high altar. This was
apparently Norm., with some Perp.
restorations and additions. The re-
pairs consequent on the fire showed
that "the pillars and lower parts
of the walls of another crypt ex-
tended under the whole of the
western part of the choir and its side
aisles. Also that the crypt above
mentioned, which had been so lone
known, was in fact a mere piece ci
patchwork, made up during the fitting
up of the choir in the 14m cent., out
of the old materials, to support a
platform for the altar, and provide
chapels and altar-rooms beneath it." —
WiUis.
This original crypt had been filled
up with earth, which was removed,
so that the whole may now be ex-
amined. It is of late Norm, character,
and seems to have formed 4 aisles,
the outer ones resting on low cylinder
iers, grooved in spirals, like those of
hirham, and 2 smaller piers inside.
Toward the E. it opens N. and S. into a
Boule 1. — Minster, Crypt, Central Tower,
45
projecting building, '* a kind of eastern
transept, bat which from the greater
thickness of its walls was evidently a
tower." This crypt was no doubt the
workof Al)p. Roger (1154-1181), who
built the Norm, choir, which was pulled
down when that which now exists
was constructed. As at Canterbury,
the general design of which cathedral
seems to have been closely imitated
by Iboger, this crypt was entered from
its aisles, at the western end of which
appeals a portion of a vestibule, and
M an enriched Norm, portal. Ad-
joining this portal is a low arch, and
a portion of an apse ; both of earlier
date than Boger's work, and belonging
to the first Norm, cathedral of Abp.
Thomas (1071-1100). The apse nroves
thai the transepts of the nrst Norm,
fh. terminated in this form eastward.
The central part of the extreme
western portion of this crjrpt had appa-
rently been filled with earth ever since
its first construction by Abp. Roger.
It is enclosed by a massive wall, 3 ft.
6 in. in thickness. This is of Roger's
time. Within it is a wall, "appa-
rently of great antiquity, 4 ft. 8 in.
thick ; and on the inner side a third
wall, which lines the latter, and is
2 ft. thick. The middle wall is faced
with herring-bone work, and of course
workmanship, and has evidently be-
longed to one of the early structures,
possibly to the Sax. ch The
inner ihm wall is partly constructed
fA old materials, apparently derived
from some part of the ch. that was
polled down to make way for the new
ciypi."— FtWis. It probably served
as' a fonndation for tne timber- work
of the stalls in the choir above. The
middle wall will be regarded with
very great interest, if, as is not im-
possiUe, it formed part of the stone
ch. bnilt by King Edwin. At any
rate it marks the exact site of this
ch., even if we admit that the work
of Edwin was replaced by a more
elaborate structure by Abp. Albert
in the 10th cent
The earth which filled the enclosure
made by these walls was removed
after 1829. The workmen left, how-
ever, a slab of stone, about 5 ft.
higher than the level of the pavement
of the crypt, and 3 steps, which they
found a little to the E. of this slab.
These have been regarded as an altar
and the ascent to it. But Professor
Willis conjectures that "this was
the stair which led to the small
crypt or * confession' of the Saxon
chancel."
XXIV. The C&filraL Toioer of the
first Norm, cathedral seems to have
remained in its original state, at least
as high as the roof, after the con-,
struction of the E. E. transepts. The
treasurer, John le Romain, who built
the N. transept, is said also to have
built the campanile, or bell-tower.
This no doubt refers to the central
tower : but Le Romain's work was in
all probability above the roof. The
core of the existing piers is Norm. ;
and Norm, ashlaring remains on the
N.W. pier, in the parts above the
vault of the nave aisle. These Norm,
piers were cased with Decorated or
Perp. masonry as the works of the
nave and choir advanced to them ; the
western faces of the piers toward the
nave first receiving meir casing, and
the eastern of those toward the choir.
After the completion of both nave and
choir, the casing of the pieis was also
completed; and in 1409 Thomas de
Haxey was appointed supervisor of
the work of the fourth pier ; a proof
that the three others had already been
finished. The lantern or upper part
of the tower above the piers was still
in progress in 1421, when a temporary
roof was set up, and the stonework
was not completed in 1447. In 1471
the permanent roof was preparing,
and was complete in 1472, when
the charges for painting it are re-
corded.
The four great arches of the toiver,
with their huge piers and capitals of
leafage, are magmficent. Above them
runs a stringconTse with projecting
46
Boute 1. — York, Minster^ Choir Screen^ Organ.
angel brackets. An enriched wall
ar^e, with a parapet, inter\'enes
between the main arches and the
lofty Perp. windows, two in each
face. The vault of the lantern, 180 ft.
from the pavement, is a rich lieme.
The effect of the whole, it has been
well said, is " beyond all praise."
In the windows of the lantern are
some portions of the original glass,
displaying, among other devices, the
cross keys of the chapter.
The tower should be ascended for
the sake of the view, which is very
fine and extensive. ' A large part of
the country is commanded, and the
dome of Castle Howard is a marked
feature in the landscape: whilst the
streams that unite to form the Ouse
mav be traced abnost to their sources
in Craven.
The completion of the central tower
terminated the great series of works
which had replaced the Norm, cathe-
dral by the ^gantic building which
now exists. The church was accord-
ingly reconsecrated, July 3, 1472.
XXV. A work of no small import-
ance, however, was completed after
this date. This was the Rood or CJioir
sereejij the construction of which may
be safely placed between the years 1475
and 1505. " William Hyndeley was
the master-mason, having two others
under him. Six carpenters were
employed, and received IIZ. 168. 4d.
The smn of 27u. S^d. was paid to
the sawyers, and 96s. 4(2. to the
labourers, of whom there were but
three." — Raines Fabric BoUs. Among
the decorations of the screen occurs
Hyndeley *8 device — a hind lodged, or
lying.
The
ho screen consists of 15 compart-
ments, 7 on the N. and 8 on the S. of
the central portal. The compartments
are divided by buttresses, and in each
is a lofty pedestal, supporting a life-
sized statue of a king ot England, the
series ending with Henry VI. Above
is a superb mass of tabernacle work,
enriched with small figures ; and the
screen is finished by a very rich
parapet. The portal is in 4 orders,
surmounted by an ogeed pediment.
The fine statues of the kings deserve
special notice.
The screen, rich and beautiful as it
is, is perhaps too massive, and cer-
tainly does not improve the effect of
the transept. Its removal, however,
which was threatened during the
repairs after the fire of 1829, is en-
tirely to be deprecated.
XXVI. The ancient Organ was
destroyed in 1829. In 1832 an organ
built by Elliot and Hill, from the
design of Dr. Camidge, the organist,
was presented to the Cathedral by the
Earl of Scarborough, who was one of
the Prebendaries of York. This organ
cost 3000Z. In 1859 it under^^ent
considerable alteration, at a cost of
more than 1300Z., by Messrs. Hill and
Son. It has now 69 stops and 426G
pipes.
XXVn. On the south side of the
choir are the Record Room, Vestry,
and Treasury. The Becord Room,
which is fitted with presses, and con-
tains the valuable series of Registers,
Fabric Bolls, and other documents
relating to the Cathedral, formed part
of a chantry founded by Archbishop
Zouch about 1350 ; but rebuilt about
the year 1396, so as to bring it into
uniformity with the new choir. At
its S.W. angle is a draw-well, called
« St. Peter's well."
The vestry and treasury were rebuilt
twenty years before Archbp. Zouchs
chantry. In the vestiy are preserved
some antiquities of very great interest :
they include the Horn of Ulphus^
made of an elephant's tusk, and dating
from a period shortly before the Con-
quest ; when Ulph, the son of Thorald,
tlie lord of great part of eastern
Yorkshire, laid this horn on the altar
in token that he bestowed certain
lands on the church of St Peter.
Among these lands was Godmundham,
near Market Weighton, the site of
Boute 1. — Tori, Minster, Central Tower.
47
the great pagan temple which was
profftned by Coi£, the high priest,
after his conversion by St. Paulinus.
The horn is encircled about the mouth
hf a belt of carving, representing
griffins, a unicorn, a lion devouring a
doe, and dogs wearing collars. The
griffins stand on either side of a tree,
which at once recalls the conventional
sacred tree of Assyrian sculpture.
This famous horn disappeared during
the civil war ; but came into the hands
of the Lords Fairfax, one of whom
restc^ed it to the church. Its golden
ornaments had been removed; but a
silver-g;]lt chain and bands were at-
tached to it by the Chapter in 1675.
— A magnificent oak chest, carved
with the story of St. George, dating
early in the 15th century. — A silver
pistoral staff, six feet long, taken, in
1GS8, from James Smith, titular Bishop
of Callipolis, by the Earl of Danby.
- The Pope had made Smith his Vicar
Apostolic for the northern district,
and he was soon pounced upon." The
staff is sfidd to have been wrested
from the hand of Bishop Smith, when
walking in procession to his " Cathe-
dral Church. — The Mazer bowl, or
•"Indulgence Cup of Abp. Scrope."
This is a bowl of dark brown wood,
with a silver rim, and three silver
cherubs' heads, serving as feet. Hound
the rim is the inscription, "Hecharde
srche beschope Scropc grantis on to
alle tho that drinkis of this cope xl
dayis to pardune, Robart Gubsune
Beschope musm grantis in same forme
afore saide xl dayis to pardune, Bobart
Strensalle.'" The cup seems to have
originally been given by Agnes
Wyman,' wife of Henry Wyman,
Mayor of York, to the Corpus Christi
Guild. No similar instance of an
episcopal consecration of such a cup
is known. The Corpus Christi Guild
of York was dissolved in 1547 ; and
the cup passed afterwards to the
Cordwameis, whose arms appear at
the bottom of it Their association
was dissolved in 1808 ; and the bowl
WW presented to the Mmster by Mr.
Hornby, who had become its pro-
prietor. The word " musm " (musin ?)
perhaps refers to Richard Messing
(Latinised Mesinus), Bp. of Dromore
in 1408, and for some time suffragan
of York. — Three silver chaUces with
patens, taken from the tombs of abps.
— The rings of Abps. Greenfield,
Sewall, and Bowet, frcnn their tombs.
— An ancient " coronation chair," ap-
parently of the 15th cent.
At the S.E. angle of the nave is
an apartment called the Record Room,
and used as a WiU Office.
XXVllI. Passing out of the Minster
by the south transept, the exterior of
which has already been described, we
proceed along the south side of the
nave. The bays are separated by lofty
buttresses, rising high above the aisle
roof. The buttresses rise above the
aisle roof in three stages. In the
lowest is a canopied niche containing
a figure; aud from the second, ter-
minating in three gables, rises tho
lofty pinnacle of the third.
The enriched buttresses produce
the chief effect on this side of the
Minster. It may here be said that
the fantastic gurgoyles which are so
conspicuous, are more numerous in
the later work of York Cathedral than
in any other English church of the
same rank, and form one of the special
characteristics of its exterior.
The Central ToweVj the date of the
completion of which has already been
giyen, is well seen from this side. It
is 65 ft. square, and the largest in
England — Winchester, which comes
next, being only 62. The gurgoyles
projecting from its buttress^, —
winged kit-shaped demons, — seem as
if expelled from the holy building by
the sounds of the choir below.
XXDC. The West Front admits of
being well seen from the open space
in front of it, happily clear^ of small
buildings.
This famous fa^e fully deserves
its reputation. It may truly be said
48
Btyuie 1. — York: Minster^ Exterior
that the west front of York is more
architecturally perfect, as a compo-
sition and in its details, than that of
any other English cathedral. It con-
sists of a centre, flanked by two lofty
towers, forming the terminations of
the aisles. The towers are divided
from the nave by very deep but-
tresses, which occur again at the
exterior angles. The lower part of
this front, including the three portals,
and the two lower windows in the
towers, which light the aisles, is of
early Decorated character. AH above,
as hi^h as the roof, is later curvilinear,
and is probably of the time of Abp.
Melton (1317-1340). The towers,
above the roof, are Perp. The S.W.
tower had been begun in 1433, and
was still unfinished in 1447. It was
probably completed before the death,
in 1457, of John Bemyngham, trea-
surer of York for 25 years, whose
name appears on it, and bv whose
exertions it was erected. The N.W.
tower was not carried on until about
1470.
The central doorway has an outer
arch of many orders, greatly enriched,
and subdivided by a central shaft into
two lesser, foliated arches, in the
tympanum above which is a circle filled
with tracery. The history of Adam
and Eve appears in the mouldings of
the principal arch, and the minute
foliage of its ornamentation deserves
specud notice. A crocketed pediment
rises above the sill of the great west
window ; and the space between the
portal and the buttresses has a double
series of enriched niches. In a niche
within the pediment is the figure of
an archbishop, either that of John
Romanus, who commenced the nave,
or of William de Melton, under whom
the west front was completed. On
either side, in niches beyond the
pediment, are the mailed figures of
rercy and Vavasour, the traditional
donors of the wood and stone for the
Minster, with their shields of arms
adjoining. One of these figures bears
a block of wrought stone — the other,
what may be either an unwronght
stone or a block of timber. Over the
portal is the great west window, with
an enriched pediment above it, rising
into the gable. The gable itself is
battlemented, and is crowned with a
rich finial.
The buttresses are much enriched
with niches and panelling. Figures
of saints remain in the upper niches :
and in the two lowest, K. and S., is
some sculpture which has so nearly
perished, that the subjects are not
easily decipherable. That of one
appetEirs to oe the Flight into Egypt.
Ijie great depth of these buttresses is
especially striking.
The towers are 201 ft. from the
ground. Their windows, above the
roof, are completely Perp. Each tower
is crowned by a rich battlement, with
pinnacles. The fire of 1840 greatly
injured the S.W. tower, in which it
commenced ; and some of the delicate
stonework of the exterior has been
renewed in consequence. The bells in
this tower were destroyed. A new
peal, 12 in number, was placed in it in
1843, when Dr. Beckwith bequeathed
2000Z. for this purpose. A monster
bell, the largest at present in England,
was hung in the N.W. tower in 1845.
Its height is 7 ft. 2 in., its diameter
8 ft. 4 in., and its weight 10 tons
15 cwt. It was cast by Messra. Mears,
of London, at a cost of 20001., raised
by the inhabitants of York. Like
other great bells, it is not rung, but
struck with a hammer.
XXX. The N. side of the nave is
far less enriched than the S. ; and the
plain buttresses do not rise above the
parapet of the aisle. This side was
concealed by the Abp.*s palace.
Towards the W. end was the chapel
of the Holy Sepulchre, founded by
Abp. Boger.
The exterior of the N. transept
should be especially noticed. Its N.
front is one of the most remarkable
features of the Minster ; and has been
pronounced, with some justice, "the
JEUmte 1. — Yoi'k : Minster^ Exterior.
49
most noble £. E. composition in the
kin^om.'* An arcade coven the wall
below the "Five Sisters;" and on
either side of the five lancets above,
is a blind arch, filling up the gable.
The vestibole of the Chapter-house
covers the E. transept aisle, and
thereby deprives the composition of
its proi>er balance; but the grand
simple lines of the front call for tiie
higheet admiration.
The Ghapter-hou9e, with its vesti-
bule, projects beyond the transept.
Each bay of the former is divided by
a short nyinf buttress which deserves
attention. It is solid to the heiarht of
49 ft. ; then has an arch of a flying
buttress, and is again joined towards
the top by a flat panelling. The
buttress terminates above the wall in
a spire, with finial of leafage. All
these details, and the windows, are of
early Decorated character. But among
the many grotesque gurgoyles whi<£
project from the but^esses and from
the vestibule, occur several bears,
which have been regarded as the
device of Francis Fitzurse, who
became treasurer of the Minster in
1335. If this supposition be correct,
it must have been some time after
this date that the Chapter-house was
completed.
The view £. of the Chapter-house
is a very fine one. The choir with its
short transept, the central tower, and
the Chapter-noose, full of varied lines
and intersections, produce a most pic-
turesque and striking group. The
four bays £. of the small transept
belong to the earlier period (1361-
1373) ; the transept itself and the
four western bays, to the later (1380-
1405). The most marked difference
between these portions is in the
arrangement of the triforium passage,
vhich, in the presb3rteiy (E. of the
tnuuepts), is outside instead of, as
Qsnal inside the building. The passage
is between the clerestory windows
and f remarkable open screen, "in
oumposition a square-headed window
[YorMire.']
of three lights, cinquefoiled in the
head, and once transomed." The lofty
transept window should also be noticed.
Many gargoyles — apes, dragons, and
bat-Uke demons — -project from the
main buttresses. The buttresses at
the sides of the transept terminate in
straight shafts pierced by projecting
gurgoyles ; the straight line repeating
Sie character of the outer screen of
the clerestory.
XXXI. The E. end of the choir is
only second, as a composition^ to the
W. front. Tlie great Sagtem window
forms the centre, crowned by an
Ogeed dripstone, rising into a lofty
finial far above the parapet. Between
the dripstone and the apex of the
window is the figure ot an Abp.,
probably Thoresby, under whom the
presbytery was completed. The
massive buttresses on either side- are
enriched with niches and panel-work,
and rise into lofty pinnacles of great
beauty. The panelling is contmued
along the space between the window
and the buttresses, and rises above the
roof so as to form an open parapet,
much enriched. The buttresses which
flank the aisles are also capped with
lofty pinnacles. Under the siU of the
great window is a row of sculptured
busts, representing the Saviour with
his Apostles ; a crowned head (Edw.
m.^ at the N.; and a bishop (Thoresby)
at tne S. end.
The best point for examining the
E. front is about halfway down the
opening before it, near the gateway of
St. WiUiam's College.
The S. side of the choir resembles
the N. The two parapets, however,
with the finials of the aisle windows,
were not added until 1743, when they
were supplied chiefly by the liberality
of the iJean, Richard Andr6i;i\
XXXII. Abp. Roger (1154-1181),
besides rebuilding the choir of his
cathedral, erected the archiepiscopal
palace on the N. side, of which the
only remaining portions are — the
60
Boute 1. — York: Mimter^ Library ^ Churches.
fragment of a doister on the N. side
of the precincts, in which a wide cir-
cular arch encloees two smaller, with
trefoil headings; and the building
now used as the Chapter Library , but
originally, in all probability, the
chapel of the Abp.'s palace. At the
W. end are five lancets under a cir-
cular aich, showing the transitional
character of Roger's work.
The Library of the Chapter is, two
days in the week, open to the public,
who nuy take books from it on pay-
ment of a small annual subscription.
There are about 8000 vols. ; some of
which are of ereat rarity and interest.
Among the MSS. are — ^two York Bre-
viaries:— 'Tractatns Varii Patrum,'
with Ailred of Rievaulx <de Bello
Standardi' at the end — ^the book,
which is of the 13th cent, belonged
to Rievaulx : * Speculum Spiritualium '
— ^from the Carthusian PrioiT of Mount
Grace, near Amcliffe ; the * Sentences '
of Peter Lombard (14th cent/), from
St. Mary's of York ; Book of Psabns,
with Glossary (ISth cent.); some
Bibles, one of great beau^, temp.
Edw. I., witiismaU miniatured capitals ;
MSS. of Cicero (11th and 12th cents.) ;
and a MS. vol. by Gray the poet, con-
taining poems and notes on tne history
of English poetry, &c. Among the
printed bookg are many Caxtons,
Wynkyn de Wordes, add Pynsons.
The historical collections are good,
embracing Bouquet, Pertz, Muratori,
and a complete set of English printed
chronicles, including the Master of
the Rolls' series. Some books and
MSS. of special interest are arranged
in elazed cases. A case of autographs
includes one assigned to Tasso, and
(it consists of 4 Latin verses) is
written in a book (Discorso della
virtiL heroica) given by him to the
* omatissuuus Doctor Matthieus," after-
wards (1606-1628) Archbp. of York.
There is a case of very ime stamped
bindings, and another of early printed
books and MSS. — ^in which is perhaps
the finest book in England— a copy
on vellum of Erasmus's New Testar
ment, 2 vols. 1518, probably that
prepared by Frobenius the printer for
Erasmus himself. Here is also John
Eliot's Indian Bible, printed in Cam-
bridge; and among the MSS. a
very remarkable book of the Gospels
of the later (?) Saxon period, on which
the various officers of York Cathedral
took their oaths from the Conquest to
the reign of Elizabeth.
Near the W. front of the Minster,
is the B. C. " Pro-Caihedrair ded. to
St. Wilfrid (Goldie, architect). It was
completed in 1864, and contains some
elaborate carving and good stained
glass. The tower groups at a distance
with those of the Minster.
The CharcJies in York, which may
best bo described here (although the
tourist who is pressed for time should
make his way direct from the Minster
to St. Mary's Abbey, see posf),
although none are of great size, are
nearly all interesting, and present
some architectural peculiarities. Be-
fore the Reformation their number
was 45 : there are now only 24. Light
and space were not easUy procured
within the closely-packed city, and
the greater part of these chmiches are
smafl, with large windows, high in
the walls or in the clerestories, so as
to catch the light above the surround-
ing houses. Many, like the Cathedral ,
are wonderfully rich in stained glass.
Of these the most important are —
AU Saints^, North Street; St Denis,
Walmgate; Holy Trinity, Goodram-
gate; St. Martin-le-Grand, Coney
Street ; and St. Michael-le-Belfry, in
the Minster Yard. None of these
churches should bo missed by tho
archaeologist; who should also visit
St. laarqaret, Walmgate; St. Mary,
Bishop Mill, Junior; and St Mary,
CasHegate. Starting from the Cathe-
dral, the churches may be briefly
described in order. The'most import-
ant are marked with an asterisk.
Route 1. — York: Churches.
61
*SL Michad-le-Belfry, late Perp.,
begun 152d, finished about 1536.
(See Fabric BoUa of Minster,) The
old cb. was pulled do^^n by order of
the Chapter, and the present built
most probaUy from the spare stores
of the Minster. There is no separa-
tion of the chancel. The bell-cot on
the W. gable, boldly corbelled out,
should be noticed. The buttresses
are pierced by gurgojles, like those
of the Minster eutem transepts. The
stotned glau is temp. Henry VIH.,
bat is much confused and mutilated.
In the £. window are the Annuncia-
ti<Mi, Nativity, and Resurrection of
oar Lord. The other windows con-
tain figures of saints. At the end of
the S. side is a wonderful monument
for Robert Squire and Priscilla his
wife, full-length figures, standing by
aUaiB from which flames are rising.
Hiomafi Gent, the printer and his-
torian, who d. in 1778, was buried in
this ch., but has no monument.
^ITofjf 2Vtn%,Gkx)dramgate. Dec.
with Pern, portions, and a plain Perp.
tower. The aiale windows are square-
headed, Dec. On the S. side is a Dec.
chantiy. The £. window contams
some fine Per^. ghiss (circ 1470).
The larger subjects are— -St. George,
St John the Baptist, the Holy Trinity,
St. John the Evangelist, and St.
Christopher. The smaller are — ^the
Holy Family, St Joachim, St Anne,
the Virein and Child, 3 crowned
kings, lot the Holy Trinity, the
Virgin seated in front, St. Zachary,
St Elisabeth and the Baptist, and
St Ursula and her companions. There
are some good fragments of Perp.
glass in the other windows. On the
. side of Goodramgate is a small Dec.
chapel, belonging to the *' College of
Vican Chond,"* but of little interest
CUise to the city wall, between Monk
Bar and Merchant Taylors^ Hall, is
the site of 8t. Heleiis on the Walls,
one of the churches abandoned at the
Reformation. In a vault beneath it
the tomb of Constantius Chlorus
(father of Constantino the Great) was
said to have been found ; and an urn,
supposed to contain his ashes, was
preserved in the ch. The small ch.
of St. Maurice, beyond Monk Bar,
has a Trans. W. window, well showing
the approaching change from Norm,
to E. E. Hdy Trinity, or Christ
Church, at the end of Collier Gate,
may perhaps mark the site of the first
Christian ch. in York. It stands in
what is called '* King's Court,** a name
which has been thought to indicate
the position of the £nperial Palace
withm Ronum Eboracum. York had
no doubt possessed a Christian ch.
before the arrival of Paulinus ; and it
was probably within the enclosure of
the Palace. The present ch. (almost
entirely rebuilt) is of little interest
The S. door is Dec. with a niche on
each side, ^*a very elegant composi-
tion."
St. Saviour's, in St Saviour's Gate
has been restored. It is mainly Perp
Some Perp. glass remains in the K
window.
St. CuUtberfs, Peaseholm Green, id
late Perp. with a good open timbeif
roof.
♦ St Denis, Walmgate, consists of
chancel and aisles; the nave was
destroyed in 1798. The S. doorway
is rich Norm., removed from the nave,
and built up without the shafts in its
present situation. The tower arches
are Norm, (the tower itself modern).
The N. aisle is Trans. Nonn., the S.
arch Perp., and the E. window Dec.^
**with very uncommon tracery of
flowing character, which seems to be
an imitation of the great W. window
of the cathedral."—/. H. P. The
other windows in this aisle are Dec*
The S. aisle has a Perp. E. window,
the rest Dec. The great E. window
is Perp. The stained ghiss in the E.
window is Perp., with two shields of
the Scropes, and figures of saints. In
the E. window of the N. aisle is
■ 2
62
Route 1. — York: Churches.
part of a tree of Jesse (Dec.). The
two adjoining windows contain " some
fine specimens of early Dec. glass.'*
In the first, Christ in the Grarden, and
St. Thomas. There are lUso some
curious quarrels painted with butter-
flies. In the second, St. Margaret,
and the Virgin and Child. The glass
in the third window has Dec. portions
mixed with Perp. The rest of the
glass here is entirely Perp. In the
N. aisle many of the Percys were
interred; and a large blue stone is
said to mark the resting-place of
Henry Percy, the Earl of Northumber-
land, who fell in the battle of Towton,
March 29, 1460. (See Rte. 43.)
" Percy's Inn," the old palace of the
Earls, stood nearly opposite this
church.
* SL Margarets, Walmgate, de-
fldrves a visit for the sake en its very
rich Norm, porch and doorway.
'* Bound the arch of the doorway are
the 12 signs of the Zodiac, with an
ornament supposed to be a thirteenth
luonth, accoidmg to the Saxon Calen-
dar, which continued in general use
in England long after the Norm.
Conauest. Between the signs are
small groups of figures in panels, re-
presenting some characteristic emblem
for each month.**— J. H, P.
8L Latorence, beyond Walmgate
Bar, has also an enriched Norm, door-
way, and the Norm, plinth remains
all round the church except in the
tower. The ch. above the plinth was
rebuilt in the Perp. period.
Returning up Walmgate, we pass
through Fossgate to the Pavement.
8l, Onix, Pavement, is Dec. and Perp-,
with a tower built of brick by sir
Christopher Wren in 1697. The win-
dows are Perp;, the piers Dec. without
caps ; *' and the section beins different
from that of the arches, the impost
offers a curious example of the cross-
ing or intcrpenetration of mouldings."
In the chancel is an early Perp.
wooden lectern, with the Bible at-
tached to it by a chain. In this ch.
is buried Sir Thomas Herbert, who
was in close attendance on Charles I.
during the last two years of his life,
and was with him on the scaffold.
Herbert's account of the king*s last
days is the most minute and interest-
ing we possess. He was b. in York,
and d. here, March 1, 1681-2. Before
the breaking out of the rebellion he
had travelled much in Asia and parts
of Africa. Percy, Earl of North-
umberland, who was beheaded in the
Pavement (1572) for his share in the
rebellion against Elizabeth, known as
the "Rising in the North," is also
interred here.
* AU SaifWSf Pavement, a Perp.
ch., which has been much injured,
the chancel destroyed, and the other
walls rebuilt, is remarkable for its
very graceful octagonal lantern at the
W. end, which has be^i also rebuilt,
but after the old design. It greatly
resembles the lantern on the ch. of
St. Maclou at Rouen. Camden asserts
that a beacon (cresset) was lighted
nightly on this ch. to gnide travellers
through the forest of Gkltres, which
ancientlyclosed up round the walls of
York. The pulpit dates 1634, and
there is a very good scutcheon on the
N. door.
The little ch. of St, Sampson, in
St. Sampson's Square, has been re-
built, but is interesting from its dedi-
cation. St. Sampson, according to
Matthew of Westminster, was the first
Abp. of York, to which see he was
appointed by King Lucius. King
and Abp. are alike shadowy.
* St. HfhnKf Stoncgate, is dedi-
cated to the Empress Helena, mother
of Constantino the Great, who, ac-
cording to one tradition (see antf),
was bom in Eboracum. The ch.,
chiefly Dec., has beerf restored. The
octagon lantern at the W. end is very
strikinji^. The arches sj)rinp from
octagonal pillars, which, *MnBtead of
the usual moulded caps, have corbels
Route 1. — York : Churches.
68
on the N. and S. sides, carrying the
outer arch. This practice of using
eorbels instead of caps is unusual, but
seems to be a provincialism, as it
recnis in seTeral other churches in
York."—/. H, P. The font is Norm.
on a Dec. base. Some original Dec.
glass remains in the E. window.
♦ 8L Martin 9j Coney Street, is late
Perp., and has been restored. Robert
Semar, vicar of this ch., left by will
(1443) a Uu^e portion of his estate to
the fobrie, u the parishioners would
baild it anew wiuiin 7 years. The
buttresses, dender, and pierced with
gurgoyles, are characteristic of York
rerp. work, and resemble those of the
Minster (lesser transepts), St. Michael-
le-Belfry, and All Saints, Pavement.
Within, the bosses of the painted
roof, and the large clerestory window,
ihoold be noticed, but the chief
feature is the stained glass, which is
very ridi. The W. window, dated
1447, is a memorial of Robert Semar,
and mndi of his legacy must have
been used for it. It contains events
from the life of St. Martin, with the
heavenly hierarchy in the tracery.
The other windows of the S. aisle and
ihd clerestory contain figures of saints,
shields of aims, &c., tOl Perp. (circ.
1450) and all worth notice. In the
third window of the S. clerestory
are the 4 doctors of the Church, St.
Ambroee, SI Augustine, St. Jerome,
and St. Gregory. The great E. win-
dow, long pkimyglazed, now contains
stained ^iaas by Seaton and BuUer.
8L MuhaeTs, Spurrier Gate, is plain
Perp., with some good Perp. glass in
the windows. The altar-covering is
of stamped leather, temp. Charles IL.
* 8t MarVf Castlegate (restored by
the Dean of York, 1870), has a fine
Perp. tower and spire ; the lower story
square, the second, on which rests the
ipire, octagonal. The N. side of the
nave is Trans.-Nonn. ; the piers on
the S. side were rebuilt in the Perp.
period. Within, the tower has arches
opening to the aisles N. and S., as
wdl as that E. to the nave. This is
a peculiarity frequent in Yorkshire
churches. The S. doorw^ is E, E.
The windows are Dec. and Perp. (One
in the N. aisle has floriated tracery.)
Under the windows of the N. cusle
are some arches which, it has been
suggested, may have been places of
sep^ture for benefactors. Against
the chancel pier of the N. aisle, and
protected by glass, ia a stone with an
inscription, partly Latin, partly A.
Saxon, recording the dedication of a
ch. on this site. There is no date;
but the inscription must be of the
period between 1000-1040. The choir
IS Perp., with narrow arches • on each
side opening to the ends of the aisles ;
under the arches are flat Perp. tombs.
There is some old glass in the E.
window of the S. aisle. . The E. win-
dow of the chancel was jQven by the
parishioners in 1870. The
Mardman^s — ^the principal subject the
Nativity. The colour is rich and fine,
and the window adds greatly to the
effect of the view from the W. end
The font is temp. Charles II. The
altar-covering is of stamped leather,
red and gold flock, and is possibly
Flemish work of the 17th cent.
Crossing the river, we first reach
St. John% Micklegate ; a poor Perp.
church (the arches may be E. E.^ of
little interest. There is some stamed
glass, late Dec. and Perp.
*AU 8aint8\ North Street, is one
of the most interesting churches in
York. The outer walls and windows
are chiefly Perp. The pillars, arches,
S. doonicay, and font, are E. E. The
tower, which is octagonal, with but-
tresses up the alternate flat faces
instead of at the angles, and a lofty
spire, is Perp. The E. windows of
chancel and aisles are Dec. The £. E.
pillars on the N. side are alternately
round and octagonal; and numy of
the latter have a peculiar capital,
H
* Bouteh — York: Churches.
which seems a Yorkshire proviiicialiem.
The stained glass in this church is of
great beauty, in spite of restoration
and addition. The E. window (15th
cent.) has, above, the Virgin and St.
Anne, the Baptist, and St. Chris-
topher. Beneath, in the centre, is
the H0I7 Trinity. On the S. side is
Nicholas Blakebum, Mayor of York in
1413, and wife. On the N., Nicholas
Blakeburn, the younger, sheriff of
York in 1428, and mayor in 1429,
with his wife. These figures are
kneeling, and have labels with pas-
sages from the penitential psalms;
below are shields with the letter B.
The Blakebums were no doubt the
donors of this window. The glass in
the tracpry is modern. The E. win-
dow of the N. aisle is earlier, but still
of the 15th cent. The subjects are
from the life of our Lord, with the
Coronation of the Virgin. This glass
has been much " renovated." The E.
window of the S. aisle has much
modem glass inserted, but there are
some good Dec. fragments. The sub-
jects are — ^the Virgin, Christ in the
Gkirden, the Crucifixion, and figures
of sunts. The first window from the
E., in the N. aisle, is known as the
"Bede" window, not because it re-
presents the events of the fifteen days
preceding the Last Judgment — which
St. Jerome describes, but Bede does
not — ^but because the window itself
was an offering, and contained a prayer
(bede) for the donors. In the tracery
is the reception of the blessed into
heaven, and the dismission of the
wicked. The 15 divisions below, with
their legends, are as follows :--(lst
day) An extraordinary inundation of
the sea — ^legend gone ; (2nd) The sea
ebbs — "The seconde day ve see sail
be so lowe as all men sail yt see;"
(3rd) It returns to its ordinary level
— " "Ye iii daye yt sail be playne and
stande as yt was agayne;'" (4th)
Fishes and sea monsters come upon
the earth — "Ye iv. daye ve fisches
sail "—the rest obliterated ; (5th) The
B^a on fire — ^" Ye fift daye ye see sail
bryn, and all ye waters y* may lyn ;'
(6th) Trees on fire; fruit dropping
off — legend nearly gone ; (7th) Earth-
quake— " Ye sevent daye bowses mon
fall, Castels and towres and ilka
wall';" (8th) Rocks consumed—" Ye
viii daye ye rockes and stanes sail
bryn togedyr all at anes ;" (9thJ Men
hide in holes of the earUi — ^legend
nearly gone; (10th) Only earth and
sky to be seen — " Ye tende daye for
(before) even Erthe sail be playno
and even;" (11th) Men and women,
and a priest, looking out of holes in
prayer — ** Ye xi. daye sidl men come
owte of their holes and wende about ;"
(12th) Three coffins full of bones —
" Ye xii daye sail banes dede in (?)
Be somen sett, and at anes ryse all ;
(13th) Stars fell from heaven—" Ye
thirtende daye suth sail sterres and
ye heven fall;" (14th) A bed with a
man and woman dead, Death at the
foot with a spear, mourners at the
side — " Ye xiv. daye all yat lives yon
(then), saU dy, bathe childe, man, and
woman ;" (15th) End of all things —
" Ye XV. day yat sail betyde ye werlde
sal bryn on ilka syde." (All these
lines are taken from the * Prick of
Conscience,' an English poem by
Hichard of Hampole, saec. xiv. For this
"Hermit of Hampole" see p. 9.)
At the bottom of the window are
figures in prayer, probably the donors.
The glass was "restored" in 1861.
The next window westward has Dec.
glass, representing six works of mercy ;
and the third Perp. glass, with three
large figures. In the S. aisle, the
first window westward has St. John
the Evangelist and an archbishop.
This glass is Perp., as is ti^t in the
adjoining window, showing the re-
mains of a stately procession. The
3rd window is also Perp. There are
many Boman bricks in the wall of
this church ; and let into its S. wall
is a Boman sepulchral tablet of no
great importance.
St Mary, Bishop Hill, (he Oder,
has some good E. E. and Dec. work ;
Bouiel, — YorJc: IffuUangular Tower.
55
but it is of no special interest. *St,
Mary^ Bishop Hill, the younger ^ has a
remarkable tower, which is probably
Saxon. There is herring-bone work
among the masonry-, and the belfry
windows are rode, with circular arches,
a central shaft, and long and short
work in the jambs. It is probably a
Saxon tower, built of Boman stones,
but patched in more recent times, and
has been knocked about a good deal.
Stones with Norm, sculpture on them
are used as old materials in the in-
terior; *<and on the exterior, but
built into the waUs, are many bricks
of the shape of the modem or Flemish
bricks, a form not used before the
13th cent"—/. H. P. « The two
arches on the S. side of the nave are
rery curious. They are nearly straight-
sided, with bold bee. mouldings, and
of very wide span, whUe the two
responds and central pillar are Norm.
On the N. side are two Norm, arches."
—J. H, P. The chancel has been
rebuilt of old materials. The E. and
several of the side windows are Dec.
The name ''Bishop Hill" is of un-
certain origin. It is the highest
ground within the city ; and it has
been suggested that it may have been
the hill on which the first bishop who
visited Eboracum set up his tent, and
which was afterwards crowned by a
Christian temple. *8L Martin's cum
Gregory, Micklegate, has an E. E.
nave with Perp. clerestory, a Perp.
chaneel, and some Dec. windows.
Some very fine Dec. glass (mutikted)
remains in the windows of the o.
aisle, and in the E. window of the
N. aisle. ''There are some sing^ar
and beautiful borders and quarries in
this church.'' — /. B, There are traces
of a erypt ; and in the W. wall is a
rude piece of Roman sculpture. In
the N. wall is built in a child's
gravestone of the 16th cent, with an
incised cross. Hoiy Trinity in Miclde-
gtite has some E. £ portions ; but the
aisles and chancel have been destroyed.
It is diiefiy interesting as having been
the ^nrch of a Benedictine Priory,
attached to the great abbey of Mar-
mouticr (majus monasterium) neaX
Tours. There had been a church of
secular canons on this site before the
Conquest; and Ralph Paganel ^ve
it to Marmoutier in 1089. (The
history of the priory has been traced
in a most elaborate paper by Mr.
Stapleton, in the York vol. of the
Institute.) An E. £. gateway, the
only fragment of the priory remaining,
has been removed.
The second point of interest in
York is 8L Mary's Abbey, in the
garden and grounds of the Yorkshire
yhilosonohicai Society, on the 1. bank
of the Ouse, about 5 min.'s walk from
the Minster, and a little further from
the rly. stat. Entrance 1. after cross-
ing Lendal Bridge. If not introduced
by a member, the charge for admis-
sion is Is. The very pleasant and
well-kept gardens include not only
the remains of ♦♦St. Mabt's Abbey,
but those of the small hospital of
8t, Leonard ; the Mtdbanaular Tower,
the most perfect relic of the Roman
city ; and the Jtftissums of Antiquities
and Natural History belonging to the
Society. A feast of no ordinaiy
excellence is thus provided for the
visitor.
The remains should be visited in
due order. The hospital of St.
Leonard is seen rt. on entering the
grounds; but the visitor should first
examine the MvUcrngviar Tower, a
short distance beyond it. A portion
of the ancient wall is connected with
it. The lower part of the tower alone
is Roman, the upper part being a
medieval addition. "The masonry
of the exterior surface of the Roman
wall, and of the whole breadtii of the
wall of the tower, consists of regular
courses of small ashlar stones, with a
string of large Roman tiles, five in
depth, insert^ between the 19th and
20th courses of the stones from the
foundation Themasoniyofthe
interior of the tower, reaching very
nearly, it is probable, to its original
56
Bouie 1. — York : St, Le<mard!8 Hospital
height, is remarkably fresh and per-
fect, owing to its haying been con-
cealed daring many ages hy an
accmnulation of soil The tower
has evidently been divided by a wall,
a small part of which is still remain-
ins, into two equal portions. At the
height of about 5 ft. there seems to
have been originally a timber floor;
and above this, at the height of about
9 ft., another floor. The stone coffins
now in the tower are from different
Roman burial-places in the neigh-
bourhood of York.
This tower stood at the S.W. angle
of the Roman city, which was rectan-
gular, about 650 yds. by 550, enclosed
by a wall with a rampart mound of
earth on the inner side of the wall,
and perhaps with a fosse without.
(For this earthen mound see post,
the City WaUs.) The S.W. wall ran
from the Multangular Tower to Jub-
bergate; the SiS. terminated near
Aldwark; the N.W. probably ter-
minated at the angle of the -present
city wall in the Deanery Garden.
The date of these Roman walls is
uncertain; but most probably they
were raised during the 3rd century,
perhaps by the legions under Severus.
Rt, opposite the lodge at the en-
trance ot the Abbey grounds, are the
remains of St, Leonard's Hotpitah
said to have been founded by Athel-
stane, re-established by the Conqueror,
and rebuilt by Stephen. It was one
of the largest and best endowed
foundations of its class in the north of
England. Ninety persons were con-
stantly maintained in it, including
a warden, 13 brethren, 8 sisters,
26 bedemen, and 8 servitors. Its
rental at the Dissolution was 3622.
The principal remains are those of
the ambulatory or cloister, and of the
chapel of the infirmaiy. The am-
bnlatoiy consisted of 5 or 6 aisles, in
two of which was a large fireplace.
Above were the wards of i£e infirmary,
opening at the £. end to a small
cnapol; so that the sick persons,
remaining in their beds, might be
present at the services. The chapel
of St. Leonard's is of the early part
of the 13th cent ; the cloister is
earlier, and may, perhaps, have been
part of the building raised by Stephen.
Some Roman remains found near
York (including a tomb formed of ten
large slabs of gritstone, and enclosing
a coffin of wood) are preserved here.
Here are also many sarcophagi and
other relics found in the Roman
cemetery discovered (1873) in ex-
cavating for the N. £. Rly. stat., on
the rt. bank of the Ouse.
Passing the Grecian portico of the
Museum of the Society (described
further on), we come to the ruins
of St, Mary's Ahbey, one of the first
monastic establishments founded in.
Yorkshire after the Conquest, and
always one of the most important in
the county. In 1074, three Bene-
dictines, fealdwin. Prior of Winch -
combe, and two brethren from the
neighbouring house of Evesham made
a pilgrimage into the North to visit
the holy shrines of which they had
read in the history of Bede. After
many adventures, they became at last
the re-founders of two famous Bene-
dictine houses — Jarrow and Whitby —
and the founders of this of St. Maiy^s.
They were protected here by the first
Norman Abp., Thomas of Bayenx;
and the ch. of St. Olave was given to
them (temp. Wm. 11.) by Alan of
Brittany, Earl of Richmond, to whose
lot it had fallen. Numerous grants
were made to the new foun&tion,
which became not only the richest in
Yorkshire, but one of the richest in
the North, its annual rental at the
time of its surrender in 1540 bein^
16502. The site was retained by the
Crown; and a portion of the build-
ings, extending from the S. transept
of the ch. to the wall of the Abbej
Close, was converted into a royal
palace. The Abbot of St. Maty was
the only mitred Abbot N. ot the
Trent besides the Abbot oi Selby,
and was called to Parliament, From
Bouie h—York: St. Mary's Abbey.
57
this moiuistery, in 1132, a company of
monies, wishing to adopt the reformed
and stricter rale of the Cistercians,
set forth, after a violent struggle
with their Abbot, fonnd a resting-
place at Foantains, and founded the
great abbey there. (See Rte. 22.)
The remains of the monastic build-
ings were greatly shattered when, in
1827, the Yorlcshire PhUosophical
Society (established 1822) obtuned a
gnmt from the Crown of great part of
the ancient precincts, including the
abbey eh., with the exception of the
choir. In the reigns of William in.
and Qneen Anne, who granted per-
nuasiou for the removal of the ma-
terials to repair other buildings, part
was used to constract the city gaol,
and part of the stone was sent in the
reign of George I. to Beverley, to
repair the Minster there. The ruins
are now carefully protected and cared
for; and an exploration of the ground
has brought to light many interesting
foundations and iragments.
The principal existing remains are
those of the Abbey Church. After
the burning of an earlier ch., Abbot
8imon of Warwick (1259-1299) laid
the foundation of a new and larger
choh-, which he lived to see complete ;
a&d the rebuilding of the rest of the
ch. no doubt followed in order. The
existing remains are very late £. E.,
<ff early Dec. ; and, al&ough much
weather-worn, are of considerable
beautv. The ch. consisted of nave
and choir (of equal length — 8 bays in
each), a tnmaept with E. aisle, and a
central tower. (This tower was
Uown up during the siege of York in
1&13.) It will be seen that the lights
and tracery of the windows varied
alteniately. The W. front must have
been fine; and the leafage, which
rises between the shafts, and is twisted
round the top of each, so as to fonn a
foliated capital, is especially graceful.
FoondatioDs of eastern apses have
been discovered in the transept, N.
and S., and of a larger apse a short
distance within the choir. These
were, no doubt, the eastern termina-
tions of the Norm, ch., commenced
by the fint abbot during the episcopate
of Thomas of Bayeux.
The monastic buildings were ar-
ranged in accordance with the usual
plan. The cloister was on the S. side
of the nave. East of the cloister, and
projecting beyond the transept, was
the chapter-house, of which one of
the piers of the portal-arch remains,
of late Norm, character.
N. of the ch. is the arch of the
principal entrance to the precincts.
This is Norm. ; but the building at-
tached to it, the lower part of which
seems to have been the prison of the
Abbey, and the upper part the Abbot's
court-room, is late Perp. The Abbey
stood 'W'ithout the city walls ; and the
entire close, or precincts, were sur-
rounded by a wall of stone, with
towers at intervals, by Abbot Simon,
the rebuilder of the choir. This pro-
tection was necessary, not only against
the citizens, between whom and the
monks there were frequent skirmishes,
but against occasional forays of the
Scots. Outside the precincts, and N.
of the gateway, is 8t, Olave's Church,
of no architectural interest ; but in the
ch.-yd. Etty the painter (d. 1849) is
buried. His plain sarcophagus is
seen through an arch on the N. side
of the ruined nave of the Abbey
Church.
E. of the Abbey Church, and seen
from the grounds, is a large irregular
Sile of building, known as the Kings
tanor, and occupied partly by the
Wilberforce School for the Indigent
Blind (established by subscription in
1833 as a memorial of William Wil-
berforce) and partly by the National
School for Boys, lliis stands on the
site of the Abbot's House, which,
after the "Pilgrimage of Grace" in
1536 and the subsequent establish-
ment of the Cheat Council of the
North (see Introd.), was assigned for
the purposes of that body ai^d for the
58
Bmte 1. — Torh: St. Mary^s Abbey.
residence of the Lord President of the
Council. So it was inhabited until
the abolition of the Great Council in
1641. The most distinguished Presi-
dents who occasionally abode here were
Radcliff, Earl of Siisex, and Henry
Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon, both
temp. Elizabeth ; Lord Burleigh, who
received here James I. on his entry
into England; Lord Sheffield; and
Lord Wentworth, afterwards Earl of
Strafford. Charles I. was here for a
month in the spring of 1639 ; but on
his later visits, in Nov. 1641, and
during his long stay in 1642, the
King remained in Sir Arthur Ingram's
house in the Minster Yard. Of the
Abbot's Hoiise^ built by Abbot Siever
towards the end of the 15th cent., the
only remains are a staircase in the
N. W. comer and a wall or two. The
large brick buildings forming the N.
wing of the Manor were raised by
Lord Huntingdon, and one ornamented
room (the dormitory for blind girls)
is worth notice. The principal front
of the Manor, facing E., was built by
Lord Sheffield ; and Lord Wentworth
built a gallery and chapel. These
have disappeared, but their position is
marked by the heraldic achievement
over the doorway on the W. side of
the quadrangle. Strafford was charged
with unbecoming arrogance for thus
putting up his own arms in one of the
King's palaces, but this did not form,
as is often asserted, one of the articles
of impeachment against him.
In the lower part of the grounds,
near the river, is the ancient Hotpi-
tium^ or guest-hall, of the monastery,
the lower part of which (of stone) is
of the 14th cent., the upper (of wood)
of the 15th. In both of^these (which
have been restored) some interesting
antiquities are arranged, the greater
part naving been found in York or the
neighbourhood. In the Jotoer room
the most unportant are — a fine Roman
pavement, with heads representing
the 4 seasons, found in 1853 near
Micklegate Bar ; Roman altars, chi^y
from York, two of which are dedicated
or bear inscriptions to the Dese Biatres
(the three female deities wiiose wor-
ship is supposed to have been intro-
duced in Britain by the Tongrian
cohort from the banks of the Rlune),
and one inscribed to a local deity,
"Arciacon," whose name occurs no-
where else ; Roman sepulchral monu-
ments (one of them showing the
funeral feast for a child, who stands
in front), coffins (the inscription on
No. 12 deserves notice), fragments of
sculpture and tablets. The broken
tablet (No. 14), which dates circa
A.D. 108, and records the performance
of some unknown work by the 9th
legion in the reign of Trajan, was
found in 1854 near Goodraragate, and
is one of the most ancient inscribed
tablets of the Roman period in the
kingdom. Here is also a coffin found
(1873) in the Roman cemetery oppo-
site the Society's grounds, with an
inscription for a "Decurio" of York,
who "vixit annis xxviiii." This is
the only, but a distinct, proof that
Eboracum was a " colonia " of Rome,
and had its local magistracy. Remark
also fragments of Saxon sculpture,
including two coffin-lids, the larger
and more perfect of which was found
within the nave of St Dionis* Church,
Walmgate; and some curious and
interesting sculpture, chiefly of the
Dec. period, from the ruins of the
Abbey. In the upper room are, on
the floor, some Roman pavements;
the largest was removed in 1857 from
Oulsten, near Easingwold, belonging
to Sir George Wombwell. In cases
round the room are British and Ro-
mano-British cinerary urns and pot-
tery. In the case rt.*of the stove is a
veiy graceful small vase of Greek cha-
racter, but of the local pale-colonred
pottery ; 3 cups of red ware, belonging
to a lady's toilet, and found in the
new cemetery ; and a remarkable nm,
from the same place, found full of
bones, over which oils and gums had
been poured. The scent of the un-
guents in the cups and of these gums
Boute l.—Tork: 8L Mary's Abbey.
69
was still powerful when the discoveries
were nmae.
The local untianities in the Hospi-
tiom have been largely increased by
the very interesting discoveries made
on the site of the ny. stat. and hotel,
on the L bank of the Ouse, which turns
out to have been a Roman cemetery
outside the walls. Among these
rttmerve coffins of stone (and wood),
in which the bodies were laid in
their clothes, and plaster poured over
them. The plaster still retains in
part the form of the bodv, and the
marks of the folds of the clothes. In
nac coffin, lined with lead, the skeleton
of a woman was found, with the hair
of the scalp quite perfect. It is here
still preserved, with a jet hair-pin
Flicking in it. The collection of
pottery is veiy extensive, and part of
it, Samian ware of bright red colour,
is very good, in classical shapes and
ornsments. This fine ware was im-
p<7ted from Oaul and other countries,
but a large quantity is of inferior
British make, and includes some of
the potter's moulds in which it was
formed. The Roman glass is copiously
represented — ^many vessels, bottles of
fSvA shape, glass beads. Personal
(ornaments and jewels ; rings of gold,
tibttlae, aimlets, bracelets, beads of
jet and amber; needles, hair-pins,
iTory knitting-needles ; toys for chil-
ilren, a ball, &e. ; day moulds and
crucibles ; a bronze pitcher on 4 legs
for cooking, spindle-whorls of lead
and stone ; figures in bronze of birds,
cock, peacock, eagle, ostrich (?) ; tiles
itamped with inscription of Roman
legions. '' Leg. ix. Hisp ; " a funereal
jar full of burned bones ; mosaic pave-
ments, from Toft Green and Oulston ;
a bronze boss of a shield, engraved
and inlaid with figmes and patterns ;
besides many tcnnbis and sarcophagi of
rarious materials, several instances of
interments made with curved tiles laid
over the body, with ridge tiles along
the top. Not only many lamps, but
eandteticks of t«rra-cotta and dried
clay; a gold amulet, with Qnostic
inscription in Greek and Coptic; *
coin (? obolus) found in a woman's
mouth ; amonmnental stone inscribed
of Lucius Rufinus, standard-bearer to
the 8th legion, with his effigy in relief ;
the furnace of a bath, and the leaden
pipes which conveyed water to it.
Among other relics from the new
cemetery are a curious small cup of
pottery, thin as egg-shell china; a
gold plate (a false palate?), found
within the skull of a young woman
(gold was one of the few substances
which by the laws of the Twelve
Tables might be buried with the
body) ; and a small bone tablet, with
the inscription, *' Domine victor vin-
cas felix," which may be either Chris-
tian or Mithraic. These antiquities
are for the most part local, and
deserve careful examination with the
help of the detailed catalogue drawn
up by the curators. At tiie head of
the room, in a separate case, is the
'* Cook " collection of antiquities found
in York. These are chiefly Roman,
and comprise some fine pottery and
glass. There are also some remark-
able Danish (?) combs, in bone and
wood, and what seem to be bone
skates — long bones polished and flat-
tened on one side. A small leaden
ossuary (Roman) retains its contents.
The case against the wall at the N.
end of the room contains the finest
collection of mediaeval pottery out of
London, all, or nearly aU, foxmd in
York. There are some pitchers of
Norman date, many interesting tiles,
besides fragments and figures, all de-
serving attention. Of relics other
than Roman, eq>ecially remark t^o
sepulchral remains from tumuli at
Anas, near Market Weighton, in a
case opposite the door. The chieftain,
whoever he may have been, seems to
have been buried in his war-chariot,
of which the wheel-tires and other
portions are to be seen here, besides
the horses' bridal-bits. In other cases
are some fine Anglian bronze brooches
and ornaments, and — of the highest
interest— a magnificent bowl of copper
60
Boute 1. — York: Natural History Museum.
gilt and jewelled, found at Oniiskirk,
in Westmoreland. The ornaments on
this bowl are very peculiar, and among
them occurs a biii or monster, with
a tail ending in a dart, and pecking at
grapes. This occurs also on a frag-
ment of stone sculpture at Otley
(Rte. 30), and apparently belongs to
a post-Roman period. In this rooni
are also an ancient British canoe,
found in the bed of the Calder, near
Wakefield, in 1838 ; and " the remains
of an ancient British or Saxon fisher-
man, found in excavating for the foun-
dations of Salem Chapel, S. Saviour-
gate."* A small botanical garden is
laid out between the Hospitium and
the river.
The Roman Cemetery, where so
many of the relics here preserved were
found, was discovered (1873) in prepar-
ing the site for the N. £. Bjiilway stat.
This lies on the rt. bank of the Ouse,
immediately opposite the grounds of
the Philosophical Society, and covers
a very considerable space. The whole
was outside the wall of Boman York,
and lay at a short distance rt. of the
road from Eboracum to Calcaria (Tad-
caster). It must have been used as a
cemetery for a long period, and was
apparently the burial-place of a poorer
class than that which raised its monu-
ments nearer to the great road, and
for some distance along its course. In
some parts of the ground Roman
carters had been in the habit of
** shooting" rubbish from the neigh-
bouring city. There were thick strata
of Roman bricks, mortar, and pottery,
mingled with fragments of wall-
plaster, on which coloured patterns
were distinct. Adjoining this rougher
portion of the cemetery two or three
deep pits, or " putei," were found, into
which, as was usual, the bodies of
slaves had been thrown carelessly and
pell-mell, as was evident from the
confused mass of bones in all possible
positions. No similar "putei" have
been foond elsewhere in Britain, and
the remarkable headstone-like blocks
(in St. Leonardos Hospital, ante) are
equally confined to this cemetery. The
large coffins were found in groups,
seven or eight together, and possibly
mark the graves of a family. The
gravel below the cemetery-bed was
excavated in places to a considerable
depth, and was full of glacial blocks —
some boulders from Shapf ell and other
masses of greenstone from some un-
known source.
The Natural History Mtueum of
the Society is in the centre of the
gardens. It is a Grecian building,
designed by WHking, and contains a
lecture room, with apartments occu-
pied by interesting and well-arranged
collections in natural history, antiqui-
ties, &c., chiefly local, the arrange-
ments of the whole being highly
creditable to the original curator.
Professor Phillips, the distinguished
geologist. It possesses one of tiie best
geological collections, and most in-
structive from its good arrangement,
that is to be found out of London.
It is rich in Yorkshire specunens, —
elephants' teeth from the coast ; fresh-
water fossils from the lake deposits of
Holdemess; fossil bones from Kirk-
dale (water-rat, ox, deer, besides
hyaenas, and camivora) ; a choice col-
lection of crag fossils; an extensive
series from the chalk; oolitic (opos-
sum from Stonesfield, lower jaw) :
lias (ammonites from Whitby); and
brown coal formation, &c. Remark
especially an Ichthyomurus crasH-
manus, 30 ft. long ; and PUsiomunu
zetlandicus, the only specimen known.
The British birds are good and toler-
ably complete. The foreign birds are
numerous, and were arranged and
named by Mr. Gould. In a case in
the first room rt. is the skeleton of the
(extinct^ New Zealand Moa (DinomCt
r6bu8tu8)f found, with the eggs about
it, under a sand hillock, as it now
appears. The mother-bird, refusing
to leave her nest, must have been
overwhelmed in a sand-storm. A
case of stone implements from the
Route l.—York: City WalU.
61
Bridlington wolds, and some other
hal antiqoities, are also in this
MxKennL In the hall are — some
Egyptian antiquities ; a Mithraic tab-
1<^ foond, in 1747, under a house in
Micklegate; and the Mortar of the
Innrmaxy of St. Mary's Abbey, which,
After undergoing various fortunes, was
restored to its ancient resting-place in
1835. It is of bell-metal, weighing
76 lb6. On the upper rim is the in-
srription, ^ Mortariu Sci Johls Evangel
•Je Ifiimaria Be. Manse Ebor." On the
lower, "Fr. Wills de Touthorp me
fecit A.D. Mccxmu." On the walls
of the theatre are 3 tapestry maps,
originallj from Weston in WarwicK-
shire, where lived William Sheldon,
who first introduced tapestiy -weaving
into England. These maps (which
contain some of the midland counties
of England) were executed in 1579,
and are said to be the first pieces of
XMftstry manufactured in this country.
They were given by Horace Walpole
tn Lord Harcourt, and presented by
Dr. Vernon Harcourt, Abp. of York,
X-} the Society, in 1827. They are
p>drts of 3 great maps of the midland
CDonties, fonnerly at Mr. Sheldon's
boose at Weston, Long Compton,
Warwickshire. The art of tapestry
weaving was introduced by Wm.
Sheldon, who died in 1570. Some
fragments, said by Gough to be parts
o( these maps, are preserved in the
Bodleian. In the Council-room is a
Urge collection of Coins (to be seen
<qily by special application to the
rurator). Among them is a series of
Northumbrian stycas (about 4000 of
the hoard found in St. Leonardos Place,
York, in 1842, and about 2000 of that
found in 1847 near Bolton Percy^.
Here is also a portrait of Francis
Drake the antiquary, — author of
' EboTBCimi.*
*The City WdUs, perfect nearly
thruttghout their whole extent, have
b»^n built and repaired at many
tblferent periods. They retain Norm.
And E. aig. portions, but are for the
most part Dec. (temp. Edw. HI.) They
were much battered during the siege
of York by the Parliamentarians in
1644 ; and the repairs lasted through-
out the three years following. They
were restored as a promenade towards
the beginning of the last cent. ; but
again became dilapidated, and were
put into their present condition in
the year 1833, at a cost of nearly
30002. The walk round them (2| m.)
may be continued by the bridges
across the Ouse. Some of the best
general views of the Minster are to
be obtained from the walls ; the walk
on which is carried for the most part
on the ridge of the high rampart.
The whole scene is picturesque, and
with its gardens, trees, red roofs, and
ancient churches, recalls that from
the boulevards of some old Flemish
city, or perhaps stiU more that from
the waUs of Nuremberg. The Clifford
Tower, within the Castle (see post), a
true relic of old York, is well seen
from the walls.
The Oa^, here called Bars (the
streets leading to them being styled
gates, the A.-S. " eeat ** signifying a
road), are remarkable features of the
city, dating for the most part from
the time of Edward HI., though the
lower arches and foundations may be
older. They have suffered serious
improvements from modem inno-
vators; and their very curious Inifhicans
or outworks, scarcely to be met with
elsewhere, have been, except in one
instance, removed. Ilie wall may be
ascended close to any one of the gates or
bars, and the visitor who has time
should make the entire circuit. So
far as the mediaeval wall follows the
line of the Roman (N. and W.), and
in some other portions, it is built on
or adjoining an earthwork, which in
places has been very strong. The
Koman city did not extend to the rt.
bank of the Ouse. This earthwork is
certainly later than the true Roman
period, since close to Micklegate Bar
it overlays a large Roman pavement.
62
Route l.—Tork: City WatU.
It remains uncertain, however, whether
the work is British after the departure
of the Bomans, Anglian, or Danish.
The mediseval wall has in places little
or no foundation, as was distinctly
evident where the wall and mound
were cut through for the rly. Where
the ancient earthen mound would not
support it, it is carried on arches, or
rather on piers with arches between
them, and the whole was then banked
up with earth. Outside the whole
range was a deep and wide ditch, and
probably a palisade; thus the com-
parative lowness of the wall, as seen
from without, is accounted for. On
one side, opposite the Foss Island,
there was no wall. Here the Biver
Foss itself served as a protection, and
the ground in front was a deep morass,
not passable for an army.
Taking the circuit of the walls and
the bars together, we begin at Bootham
Bar, where the city is entered from
the N.W. This lost its barbican in
1881. The main arch of the gateway
seems Norm., the superstructure is
Edwardian. From Bootham Bar to a
little beyond Monk Bar the w^all
follows the two sides of the Boman
city. Monk Bavy at the end of
Goodram Gate (so called, perhaps,
from a Danish " Gudrun '^, opens on
the road to Malton and Scarborough.
Here the bar deserves careful atten-
tion. The archway itself is probably
Norm. ; the supeistfucture is good
Dec., with a sustaining arch carry-
ing a gallery between the flanking
turrets, on the outside, and one
at a lower level within. They were
intended for pageants and procla-
nmtions. The machinery for the
portcullis remains in the chamber
above^ and Uic portcullis chamber is
here one of the most perfect in Eng-
land (the only one indeed which at
all equals it is in the gateway of the
Bishop's Palace at Wells). Inside
Monk Bar (and on the rt.. facing it)
is a portion of the Boman wall, a
little outside which the mediaeval
wall has been built. Shortly beyond
Monk Bar the wall leaves the square
of the Boman city, and in the angle
before reaching Layerthorpe Bridge
is some stonework which may be
Norman. At Layerthorpe the -vail
ceases, and, crossing the bridge, the
visitor should take the outer road,
beyond the Foss Biver, imtil he
reaches the Bed Tower, where the
wall begins again. A slance at the
outer country here will show him how
completely the city must have been
defended here by the Foss and the
morass beyond it. The Bed Tairer
is so named from the brick of w^hich
it is built, and the wall between it
and Walmgate may be Norm, or E.E.
Attached to Wahngats Bar, where
the road opens to Beverley and Hull,
the harbican, or outwork remains. It
was rebuilt, however, in 1648 ; since,
during the siege of York, by the army
of theParliament (1644), which lasted
18 weeks, this gate was nearly de-
molished by a battery on Lamel HiU.
From Walmgate the wall proceeds to
the Fishergate Postern (one of 5
postern gates formerly existing),
adjoining the Foss and the castle.
Here, in the angle of the waU, is a
tower which is no doubt of E. E.
date.
In St. George's ch.-yd., near Fisher-
gate, the highwayinan Turpin was
buried, after his execution here in
1739. Crossing the Foss by a bridge,
and passing under the outer walls of the
castle, which, with theur round towers,
may be temp. Hen. HI. (see post), the
Ouse is reached, and a swivel Bridge
leads to the Skeldergate Postern.
(The New Walk along the banks of
the Ouse, here shaded with ebiiii^
was laid out in 1734.) Lnmediately
within the Skeldergate is the Bail
HiU, the site of the second castle
built by the Conqueror. This is a
great earthen mounds &t least 60 ft.
high, and the wail itself is here
carried on a very lofty embankment.
There can be no doubt that these
ttottie l.—Tork: Micktegate Bar, CastU.
63
earthworks, both motind and em-
bankment, belong to a petiod before
the Norman ConqneBt. The castle
was bnilt here during the King's
sojourn of 8 days (see amte)^ and no
newlj-raised earthen mound would
hare been capable of sustaining
even a wooden superstructure. A
long dyke here crosses towards the
wall, beyond the House of Correc-
tion, and marks what was apparently
the limit of the Bishop^s ancient
junsdictioin. (Bishopgate - street is
here oatnde the wall.)
The Vietaria Bar is a portal, built
in the days of Mr. Hudson, of railway
celebrity. Then, passing along a
good portion of the wfdl, whence
me ancient tower of St Mary the
Younger is conspicuous, we reach
Middegale Bar, tne largest and most
important of all, through which
passes the old road to London and
the South.
The aichway of Micklegate may be
Norm., the rest is, perhaps, temp. Ed-
ward m. Abore the arch are carved
shields bearing the arms of old France
and l^Dgland quartered between those
of the city of York. The gateway is
flanked on either hand with turrets
or btftixans, pierced with cross loop-
holes, and surmonnted by battle-
ments, on which stone figures of men-
at-arms are perched. The two side
arches are not ancient. These gates
have too often borne other and more
gbastly decorations ; — ^limbs and skulls
nf ti& tors, patriots, and princes have
been in turn exposed upon them
to bleach in the sun — -Llewelyn,
last native Prince of Wales ; the
ambitious York with his paper crown
— *'that York might overlook the
town of York ; '' and those unfortu-
nate foDoweiB of the Stuarts executed
in the '45. The heads of the last were
stolen in 1754 by a tailor of York
and his journeymen. Edward IV.,
f« his triumphant entry into York as
^iftor from Towton field was here
met by the sight of the head and
limbs of his father (the Duke of
York); which so incensed him that
he ordered Courtenay Earl of Devon,
and 3 others of his prisoners, to be
instantly beheaded, that their heads
might replace that of his parent.
Just outside it and seen from the
walls, is the Nunnery of St. Mary, a
plain brick building, with extensive
grounds. It is a great educational
resort for tho R. C. gentry of the
north. Beyond Micklegate the wall
is pierced for access from the new
North-Eastem station, the ground
occupied by which is the site of the
great Soman cemetery (see ante, the
Museum).
Quitting the station we then reach
the LendcH Bridge over the Ouse,
where the river was formerly ^pro-
tected by strong chains drawn
across from postern to postern. (The
openings for these chains are evi-
dent in the tower on the rt. bank of
the river.) Then foUows the mult-
angular tower (see p. 55), the S.W.
angle of the Roman city, and the round
is completed at the neighbouring
BoothamBar.
Near the S.E. extremity of the
city, on a tongue of land between the
Ouse and the Foss, close to their
junction, stands the Castle, to be seen
only by direct application to the
Governor, or by a magistrate's order
(Admission is readily given by send-
ing a card to the Gfovemor, except on
Saiurdayt.) There was a ditch round
the whole outer walls of the castle,
besides a second surrounding the
keep or Clifford's Tower. These
conid at any time be filled with
water from the Poss. The position
is thus naturally strong ; and it is
probable that the mound of the keep,
like the Baill hill across the Ouse
(see ante), had been raised long
before the Conqueror built his first
castle on it. The whole fortress
suffered much during the siege in
64
Boute l.—York : Castle.
1644 ; and was afterwards dis-
mantled bj the Parliamentarians. It
has ever since served as the County
Prison. Within an area of 4 acres,
enclosed hy a massive wall 1100 yards
in circuit and 35 ft. high, finished in
1836, and which cost with some other
erections not less than 200,0002.,
stand the County Gaoly for felons and
debtors ; the Uounty €k)urff, where
the assizes for the N. and E. Bidings
are held; and that fragment of the
old castle called Clifford's Toiecr,
from the Cliffords who were anciently
the castellans. This was the keep
or citadel of the fortress, and crowns
a lofty mound. Its form is remark-
able (unique, certainly, in this coun-
try, and apparently unknown else-
where), consisting of parts of 4 cylin-
ders nmning into one another. From
its architecture the greater part of
this .tower cannot date farther back
than the reign of Edward I., but it
undoubtedly occupies the site, and
possibly includes portions, of the
stronghold erected by William the
Conqueror. Its gateway is grooved
for a portcullis, and over it is a small
chapel (E. Eng.) with tooth-moulding.
This keep (but not the existing struc-
ture) was the scene of the terrible
Massacre of ilie Jews in 1190, which
repeated in Enghmd the scarcely
more fearful story of the siege of
Masada. (Josephus, Bell. Jud. viii.
8, 9.)
Henry 11. had shown the Jews
marked favour ; but the hatred and
jealousy with which they had always
been regarded were only increased by
the King^s good-will. On the day of
Bichard I.*s coronation at Westmin-
ster (Sept. 3, 1189), some Jews ven-
tured to enter the Hall during the
feast, bearing presents in Eastern
fashion. One oi them was struck at
the door. It was said, and gladly
believed, that Bichard, in atonement
for his father's concessions, had or-
dered the extermination of the iniidels ;
and a general attack on the Jews of
London coiiimenced, which lasted all
that day and the following night.
"The great crusade came; and
Bichard, before starting, laid down
express law to guard * his Jews * from
outrage ; yet, even before he left Eng-
land, frightful massacres had taken
place at Lincoln, Stamford, and Lynn,
but the men of York waited till the
King was beyond seas. The Jews of
York lived, we are told, in the centre
of the town, in splendid houses'* —
(their district was Jubber or Jewber-
gate, now Market-street, extending
from Coney-street, across Parliament-
street, to the Shambles) — "and ap-
peared in public with the luxury and
pomp of kings (cultu fastuque psene
regio procedent^. — William of New-
burgh). It had been a terrible thing
for insolvent debtors to fall into their
hands. A body of armed men, nobles
and citizens who had pawned their
estates, crusaders soon to be out of
reach of law, and within reach of ab-
solution, attacked (March 16, 1190)
the house of Benet, the chief Jew
of York, with crowbars, plundered
it, and slew his wife and children.
Warned in time, 500 flew to York
Castle, carrying their gold with them.
It was the Kmg's gold, they cried,
and entrance was granted. All who
were left behind were massacred.
Soon the Warden of the Castle, re-
turning from a journey, unaware of
what had taken place, demanded
entrance; and the Jews, either not
knowing or not trusting him, refused
it. He complained to the Sheriff, and
the Sheriff shared his indignation.
It was treason to seize the royal
castle — ^treason not of Christians, but
of Jewish dogs. The fatal word of
permission escaped his lips ; in a
moment he would have recalled it;
but, in that moment, armed masses
from the city and from the country
were thronging to the castle. But
armed men were not their only
leaders; for priests had joined their
ranks, and, far in advance, robed in
white, strode a heniiit of the neigh-
bourhood, famed fur zeal and holi-
Bauie I.— York: Ca$tle.
65
!, with nasrioiiAte Toice and gesture
goading them to the onset Every
uioming, for the siege lasted seyeral
days, he performed mass, and re-
minded his andienee that thejwere
doing God*8 work, and sweeping from
the earth the rebellions foes of Christ.
At leaogth, in his foolhardy fuiy, blind
to the stones that were showered from
the walls, he fell, the first and the
last ; for battering rams had now been
made, and the besiegers, certain of
victory, j^fent that night in merri-
ment. 'Aie Jews, meanwhile, were
perishing with hunger ; and, as they
sat down that evening, silent or mut-
tering TOayers, face to face with death,
an old Babbi who had come from be-
yond seas to spread the knowledge of
the law among his brethren of Eng-
land, who received him as a prophd^
spoke thus : * God, to whom none may
sar. Why dost Then so? has now
laid it before ns to die for His law.
Death, as ye see, stands at the door;
nnlesB ye rather choose for this short
life to desert Ood's law, and live on
the alms of the wicked in the deep
shame of apostasy. Let ns, then, like
men, choose death ; and death not at
the hands of a Unghing enemy, but
in its most lumourable and painless
shape — a free surrender of life to Him
that gave it. Let those stand apart
who will not follow my counsel'
Many stood apart. Many were true
to their name and faith; they set fire
to the castle, casting their splendid
Eastern robes into the flames, hiding
such wealth as could not be destroyed.
A Jew, named Jocen, then killed his
wife Amia and her sons. Then, when
all the women and children had fallen
at the feet of their husbands and
brothers, and the last and boldest of
them had turned his hand upon him-
self, the wretches who were a&aid to
die impeared on the walls at dawn,
shrinking from the flames behind
them, tout the tale, and dropped down
some of the corpses in proof. * These
wicked men,' tney said, ' have ended
their wicked livee in seU-slaughter ;
to us, affliction has taoght wisdom;
we long for baptism, and for the faith
and peace of Christ' The crowd
pitied, but Richard Malabeste and his
crew were not to be cheated of their
prey. All was promised, if they
would open the gates; but, as soon
as the threshold was crossed, they
found themselves hemmed in by
murderers. These proceeded to the
Minster, wrested from the vergers
the keys of the Jewish chest" (in
which the register oi money lent by
the Jews was kept), " and burnt the
documents in the nave. This done,
they fled as soon as might be, some
to Scotland, some to uie crusades.
The tale reached Richard in France ;
furious at the loss of revenues, and
stirred perhaps by nobler feeling also,
he ordered William des Longchamps
to hold a court of inquiry in the ci^.
Fines were laid upon me wealthier
citizens ; but to no single man was
guilt brought home."— {/ H. BridM^
in * Oxford Essays for 1857.' The
narrative is from William of New-
burgh, a contemporaiy, and a native
of Yorkshire.)
The entrance to Clifford's Tower is
through a portal erected by Francis
Cliffo^, Earl of Cumberland, who was
governor for Charles L, and put the
castle into a state of defence at the
beginning of the civil wars. The
aims of the Cliffords are still visible
on this portaL Over the old entrance
is the small and interesting E. Eng.
chapel already noticed. This keep
was burnt or blown up in 1684, on
the night of St. Oeorge's festival,
having been set on fire wilfully, it
is supposed, by the soldiers posted
in it. (The marks of fire on the
stonework are, of course, referred bv
the warder to the time of the Jewish
massacre and conflagration. But little
of the existinlg k^p is so ancient
The site, and a well in the court,
down which, says tradition, the Jews
flung manv bodies, are the chief
witnesses of the story. The rebuild-
ing of the keep was probably ten*
66
Boute 1. — York : ManBum-hmae, Quildhall.
dered necessazy by the destroction it
then underwent.) The interior is
now overgrown with trees, one of
which, a walnut, is said to have been
planted by George Fox, the founder
of the Quakers, who was for some
time imprisoned here. There is a
fine view from the ramparts, with the
Bail hill opposite.
There is in a small room adjoining
the house of the governor of the
prison a remarkable CoUection. Here
are preserved the coining apparatus
used by David Hartley; the razor
with which Jonathan Martin, the
incendiary, struck a light to bum
the Minster ; the bell-rope by which
he let himself down from the win-
dow; a part of the skuU of Daniel
Clark, the victim of Eugene Aram,
dug up at Enaresborough ; the strap
wiSi which one Holroyd hune his
father on a cherry-tree ; the knife
and fork with which the rebels were
quartered, 1745 ; the fetters (24 lbs.)
which confined Dick Turpin*s legs,
and the belt which went round his
vraist, while in prison here; a rusty
knife and a bent poker with which
husbands murderea their wives ; a
sledge hammer and a razor with which
a w3e destroyed her husband ; a wig
and pistol, by means of which Pet^
Buck, a Quaker, robbed a banker of
Knaresborough of 1500Z. ; and many
other articles which would do sub-
stantial duty in a sensation novel, but
which ordinaiy visitors will hardly
care to examine.
Within the Courtyard of the castle
county and election meetings are held.
Here the youthful and diminutive
Wilberforce poured forth his elo-
quence in the cause of Pitt upon the
dense crowd assembled — ^when, to use
the words of Boswell, ** I saw what
seemed a shrimp mount on the table,
but, as I listened, he grew, and grew,
till the shrimp be<»me a whale.**
Here, in 1881, Uenir Brougham ful-
minated that speech which set the
countiy on fire, and led to the passing
of the Beform Bill.
In the small opening called Helen's-
square, at the end of Coney-street
(Conyng — (syning, or king's street),
stands the Maruion-houset a large
modem building, not particularly
remarkable ; but behind it, reaching
down to the river, is the OuUdhaU,
having a stately Peip. Gothic hall,
erected 1446, by the Guild of St.
Christopher, and divided into a nave
and aisles by 2 rows of piers, with
a council-room at its fraiher end.
The windows were restored temp.
Queen Anne. The Great Council of
the North, which was established by
Henry VIII., and continued until the
reign of Charles I., held its sittings
in the Justice-room at the back of
the Hall, overlooking the Ouse ; and
here the Scots were paid 200,000^.
for assisting the Parliament against
Charles I. A great banquet TOct.
26, 1850^ was given in the Guildhall
hy the Mayors of different English
dorporations to Prince Albert and
the Lord Mayor of York, in return
for the banquet which the Lord
Mayor had given here, in support of
the Great Exhibition. (The second
festival is commemorated in a stained-
glass window by Hardman at the
end of the hall.) York is the only
city in England, besides London,
which boasts of a Lobd Mayor, the
dignity having been conferred by
Bichaid H., when he granted to
the city its first corporate charter.
With it he bestowed on the mayor,
William of Selby, his own sword,
adding afterwards a mace, and a
cap of maintenance for the sword-
bcourer. The sword and cap of
maintenance still exist, and are
displayed on state occasions. The
corporation plate is fine, and the
"loving cup," passed round on
special occasions, holds a gallon.
According to the old rhyme, the
Lady Mayoress always retained her
title:—
BcnUe l.—Tork: Sir WiUiam's College.
67
** He is A lord for a yeu* and a day,
But sbe is a \adj for ever and aye."
The same monarch made York a
distinct comitj, comprising 35 towns
and villages; and Henrj IV. an-
nexed to it the district called the
Aintty ; bat by the Municipal Cor-
porations BiU (1835) this has been
transferred to the West Biding. A
long vaulted passage on the W.
side of the GuildhiSl leads to the
river, opening on a river gate which
seems earlier than the mdl above,
and was probably defended. With-
in the passage (1. in ascending from
the Ouse) is a boat chamber.
8L Afdhontfs ffaU or HospUdl,
now the Blue-coat School, in Pease-
holm Green, will reward the arche-
obgist for his visit Modem floors
have been introduced throughout
the building, which consisted
onginaUy of a hall, 81 ft. long
hf 27 wide, and an aisle on either
side. The Pern, open thnber roof
of the main hul (now used as the
schoolroom) well deserves study.
The usles, serving as dormitories,
bive also good roofs. The hospital
was founded about 1340, for brethren
of the Mendicant Order of St. An-
thony« by Sir John Langton, Mayor
of York.
8L Wiaiam't College, opposite
the £. front of the Minster, was
foonded in 1460, *^for the parsons
and chantry priests of the Oathe-
dial," by the Nevilles (G^eorge, then
BisiHip of Exeter, afterwards Arch-
hshoD of Toik, and Richard, Earl
of Warwick). Of the original col-
lege little remains except the en-
trance doorway, Perp., with carved
hnckets on each side. In a niche
above it is a mutilated figure, pro-
hably St. William. The building
within is chiefly Jacobeean. The
stahcase deserves notice, and in one
of the apartments the roiyal printing-
presses were set up in 1642, during
the residence of Charles I. in York.
Many important state papers and
political pamphlets were printed here.
Few eld houses now remain in
York ; though the overhanging
porches and carved brackets of
those which still exist show how
picturesque the streets must once
have been. A large timber house
at the end of the Pavement (14th
cent.?) deserves notice, especially
for the brackets which carry the
overhanging story. **A house called
Newgate, in a narrow street of the
same name, near the Shambles, is
also a curious specimen of the 14th
cent.; the lower part is of stone,
and has an original doorway and 2
curious windows. The upper part
is of timber, of early chaiucter, but
plain."-—/. H. P.
The lover of trees and flowers
should on no account leave un-
visited Messrs. Backhouses Gardens,
about 1} m. from York, on the
road to Acomb. They cover about
75 acres, and are among the largest
and most important nursery gardens
in this country. They are famous
for their alpine garden, their fern-
eries, and orchid houses. The chief
fernery is under gkss, and is so
extensive and so well-managed, that
its limits are quite unseen. The
alpine ground is an artificially
formed dell, with rockwork, lofty
and broken, of most natural appear-
ance, and covered in spring with
the loveliest alpine flowers from all
parts of the world. In front of
the ofiSces are two dwarf palms —
Chammrops JPorhmi, — which have
survived, unprotected, many winters.
The Retreat (on the Heslington
road), an asylum for the insane,
was founded in 1796, by the Society
of Friends — William Take and
Lindley Murray the grammarian
having been the projector. It was
F 2
68
Boute 1. — York : Baces, History.
established on those principles of
kindness and fiminess towud the
insane which are now nniversaUy
recognised; but the benefits of this
system were here first practicallj
demonstrated in England.
Severus' EiQs, 8 slight eminences
near Holgate, west of York, were
supposed by some antiquaries to
have been raised on the spot where
the body of the Emperor Severus
was buried or burned. It is possible
that the body may have been Dumed
here; but the hills, as Professor
Phillips has clearly proved, are
natural elevations, part of a de-
posit of clay and gravel belong-
mg most probably to the glacial
period.
York races, which are of some
celebrity, take place annually in
August on Knavesmire, about 2 m.
from the city. The course is one
of the best in England. The races
were first established in 1709, on
Clifton Ings ; but they were soon
afterwards removed to the present
couise. Horse-races, however — ^pro-
bably the first in England — are
recorded by Camden as taking
place in his time, in the forest of
Gfdtres, close to York. "It is
scarce credible," he says, **what a
concourse of people flock to these
races from all parts, and what great
bettings there are upon the horses.**
The prize for the winning horse
was a little golden bell, *< which
was tied on his forehead, and he
was led about in triumph ; — whence
the saying, when a person is winner
or moist expert at any sport, *He
bears the beU.'" -~ (Toti^A. The
Northmen were great lovers of
horse-fights (between the small Ice-
limdic ponies) and of horse-races ;
so that the Galtres races may pos-
sibly have been first set on foot
by some EgUs or Qxmtrun who had
established himself within the walls
of Danish York.
History,
The position of York, nearly at that
point of the river Ouse where it ceases
to be navigable, resembled that of
most other British towns. It first
becune Romanised, in all probability,
during the second campaign of Agri-
cola (a.d. 79), and after the conquest
of the Brigantes (see Introd.). " The
Romans knew wdl how wise it was,
in a strange and savage country, to
take possession of a place of anti-
ouity and note, where, probably,
tnere was the only market in the
district, and towards which all the
forest paths converged." — Baine.
The first certain evidence of the
existence of Eboracmn is given us bj
Ptolemy, who mentions it as the head-
quarters of the 6th Legion, with monu-
ments of which York and the neigh-
bourhood abound. Sevems, with his
sons Canicalla and Gkta, arrived in
York early in a.d. 208. It was then,
no doubt, the chief city of the whole
province of Britain — " the seat of the
prefect with his official staff and the
ministers of his luxury ; while Lon-
dinium was still a mere resort of
traders." It occupied a comparatively
small part of the space included within
the existing mediaeval walls. It was
confined to the 1. bank of the Ouse,
forming nearly a square ; one side of
which ran panUlel to the river — ending
at the multangular tower.
Bootham Btf marks the centre of W.
wall and Monk bar of the N. (these
two bars are probably on the sites of
Roman gates). The line of the fourth
wall is not ascertained, but it probably
extended in a direction opposite to
Cuse gate and bridge, and xdonk bar
may stand about the centre of them.
Geta was left to administer justice
in York during the absence of ^verus
in his campaign against the Metse,
and he was assisted here bj the
famous lawyer Papinian. Severus
died at York, Feb. 4, a.d. 211. His
body was burned here, but the ashes
were conveyed to Rome. His memory
BoiUe 1.— YbrA;; History.
69
is preserved by the name of Severus'
BUls (see ante). In 305 Diodetiftn
and Maximinian resigned the empire
to Galeiins and Conrtantins Chloras.
> Britain fell to the share of the Utter,
who eame over at once and fixed his
residence in York, where he died in
the following year. The ceremony
of his apotheosis may have been per-
fonned in York ; bnt his ashes were
probably conveyed to Rome, in spite
of a tradition that his tomb was found
(ienm. Hen. VIEL} in a vanlt beneath
the Chnrch of St. Helen's on the walls
(BeeanieyChurehesofTork), His son,
CoxsTAiTTiNE THE Gbeat, was pro-
claimed Emperor at York. Whether
he was horn, here is uncertain. (At
the councils of Constance and Basle
the English ecclesiastics endeavonred
to found a chum of precedency on
the assertion that Constantine, the
first Christian Emperor, had been
**a bom Englishman.'* His mother
Helena, who is sometimes said to
have been a British princess, was in
reality bom at Drepanmn, in Bithy-
nia, where she died.) Constantine,
on his father's death, proceeded at
ooce to Qtojl. There is no later
distinct notice of York during the
Koman period. According to Richard
* of Cirencester, Ebnraciun and Vera-
lamiam were the only Roman
""mnnicipia" in Britain. The city
was f nil of stately buildings — '* Decns
imperii, terroroae hostilibus armis,"
according to AJcoin. It lay entirely
on the left bank of the Ouse. A
short notice of it wiU best be read
mder the walls of its most important
remaining fragment, the multangular
tower now in the Botanic Ga^ens
(see St Mary's Abbey).
The importance of York continued
during the Saxon period, when St.
Panlinns baptised £dwin of North-
mnbria here and founded the Min-
ster (see ante). From the time of
Abp. Egbert (735-766) untU the
end of the century, York was one of
the chief pUiees of education, not
only in England, but in Europe.
Egbert was himself the " moderator "
of the school, and his successor in
the see, Albert, the " vice-dominus '*
or ** Abbas." Among their scholars
was the great Alcuin, himself one of
the teachers and friends of Charle-
magne, and the most learned man of
his age. Alcuin became "magister
scholuum" of York when ^bert
was raised to the see; and he
assisted both Egbert and Albert in
collecting a library which was one
of the best in Europe, and which he
has himself described in some well-
known Latin hexameters. Toward
the end of the 8th century the
Northmen appeared in Noithum-
bria, and, after ravaging the whole
district, established themselves per-
manently within it in large colonies.
Athelstane reduced them to sub-
mission; but York, in the mean
time, had become almost completely
a Danish settlement, and wandering
Vikings found their way to it from
all puts of the North. It is de-
scribed, about 990, as thronged with
Danish merchants, and living a
population of at least 30,000. York
was the chief city of the old North-
umbrian kingdom, and of the
great earldom, still almost as inde-
pendent, which followed it. It was
the capital of the Danish Earl
Siward (see St. Olave's Church),
and of Earl Tostig, the brother of
Harold. Morkere, whom the North-
umbrians of Deira chose for their
Earl after the exile of Tostig, issued
from York to fight the battle of
Qaie Fulford (Sept 20, 1066), before
Harold of England arrived, too late
to prevent the surrender of the city
to the Norwegians, but in time to
redeem it by the great victory at
Stamford Bridge (see Rte. 8). It
was while feasting at York after the
battle that Harold first heard of the
landing of William at Pevensey.
Here he held a council of leaders,
and then marched southward to-
wards Hastings, Northumbria re-
70
BotUe l.—Tork: History.
xnained ansabdued by the Normans
until the summer of 1068. Morkere,
who had become the Conqueror's
"man" and had been confirmed in
his earldom, then revolted with his
brother Eadwine. York was the
centre of resistance; in the citj
were gathered Eadgar the iBtheling,
his mother and sisters, Grospatric,
Earl of Bemicia, and all the power-
ful thegns of Northumbria. The
Conqueror at once marched toward
York, Eadwine and Morkere met
him near Warwick, submitted with-
out a blow, and were aeam received
into favour. Some of fiie Northern
leaders fled to Durham, and Eadgar
the ^heling, Grospatric and others
took refuge with Malcohn of Scot-
land. William entered York as its
master and conqueror, and now
built his first castle there, between
the Ouse and the Foss (see the
CkuUe). He left this new strong-
hold in the charge of three com-
manders : Robert Fitz - Richard,
William of Ghent, and William
Malet. (It was on his return south-
ward that Prince Henry was bom at
Selby — see that place ante — if that
event really occurred there.) In the
following year Northumbria again
revolted. The citizens of York
attacked the newly-built castle;
William again appeared on the
scene, took fearful vengeance on
the besiegers, and caused a second
castle to be constructed on the right
bank of the Ouse, on the mound
which still bears the name of the
Bail Tower (see Index). In the au-
tumn of 1069 occurred the last great
struggle of the North for independ-
ence. In September a Danish fleet,
commanded by Osbeom, brother of
King Swend, and by the king*s
sons, Harold and Cnut, entered &e
Humber and was joined bj Eadcar
the iEtheling and the Enghsh exiles.
They advanced to York; and the
Norman governors of the castles,
fearing that the houses adjoining
them would be used by the Danes
for filling up the ditches during the
assault, set them on fire. The flames
spread, and the greater part of the
city, including the Minster (and the
famous library collected by Abp.
Egbert — see the Blinster), was de-
stroyed. While the city was still
burning the Danish fleet came up,
the cartles were attacked and taken,
and two of the castellans, William
Malet and Gilbert of Ghent, carried
off prisoners. The castles were
broken down, and the Danes re-
turned to their ships with vast
booty. Again William, who had
been suppressing the revolts in
Western England and elsewhere,
hastened northward, crossed the
Aire above Pontefract (see Ponle-
frady Rte. 28), entered the ruined
city of York, repaired the castles,
and then set on foot that deliberate
harryiug of the whole of Northum-
berland which reduced the country
to a desert, and effectually prevented
any future risings of the few remain-
ing inhabitants. (See Jntrod., and
for the whole of uiis period, i^ree-
man^s < Norman Conquest,* vol. iv.)
The importance of these events
has rendered it necessary to notice
them at some length; but to
detail all the great events of which
York has been the witness from
the 11th to the middle of the
17th cent would be to write the
history, not only of Northern Eng-
land, but in a great degree that of
the whole kingdom. The con-
quest of the city by William I. is
described above (the Casde of York).
The Edwards and Henrys were con-
stantly here. Henry H. and his son
(already crowned King) received in
York Cathedral (Aug. 10, 1175) an
homage of William the Lion, of
Scotland, and his brother David.
Many Scottish bps. and abbots were
present. (Ben. Abbas, i. 95.)
Alexander ot Scotland here married
(Christmas - day 1251) Margaret,
daughter of Henry Ul., — bride
and bridegroom being not quite
Btmte 1. — York : History^ Worthies.
71
11 years old. Edward m. married
Hiifippa of Hainault (1328) at York ;
and nere King David of Scotland
wBs.solemnlj delivered to that queen
by Sir John Copland, who had taken
him in the battle of Neville's Cross
(1346). Richard 11. was often here,
and gave a sword of state to the
maycM-, which is still carried before
him (see tmte). Henry VI. and
Queen Margaret were constantly at
York during the wars of the Boses.
Here they received the fatal news of
Towton (1461), and hence they fled to
Scotland. Edward IV. was crowned
here (1464) with the royal cap called
'-Ahacot,** which had been found
in Henry's baggage at Hexham.
Charles X. was at York in 1639,
before his armed interference in
SooUand; and in 1642 he was for
some months in the city. When
the Parliament had openly declared
war and had begun to arm, the Com-
misBion of Array — ^the prelude to the
Civil war— was issued from York.
Thirty-six of the Peers, quitting §ie
Parliament, devoted themselves and
Iheir fortunes to the service of their
sovereign: and in August Charles
finally left York, and proceeded to
Nottingham, where the royal standard
was set up. After the raising of the
siege of Hull (1643) York was be-
sieged by the Parliamentarians under
Fairfax, Manchester, and Leven.
On this occasion Fairfax did his
utmost to protect the Minster, and
the safety of the stained glass is
probably dne to his exertions. But
the tower of St. Mary's Abbey was
blown np by a mine worked under
it by the troops under Lord Man-
chester, and a vast collection of
doemnents stored there was thus
destroyed. (For a full account of
the siege see Markham'a 'Life of
Fairfax, ch. xiv.) The siege was
raised on the arrival of Prince Rupert.
MaxBton Moor immediately followed,
and tiie remains of the Boyalist army
retreated to York. But they could
hold it no longer, and the city snrren-
dered to the Parliament after that
battle, July 16, 1644.
Many parliaments were held at
York under Edward H. and Edward
UL, and in 1354 the staple of wool was
removed to this place from Bruges.
Among the most remarkable "il-
lustrations" of York are Sir Thos,
Herbert (see ante^ St. Crux Church).
Guy FauXy bom 1570, of a gocid
old family, in the parish of St.
Michael le Belfry. He removed,
when young, with his mother, to
Scotton, near Enaresborough, where
he is said to have been converted
to Bomanism. He afterwards served
in the Spanish army in the Nether-
lands, under the Archduke Albert,
and came back to England in 1604,
when he was fixed upon by the
conspirators as the best person to
execute their purpose, marmaduke
FaOtergiU (bom 1652), whose books
formed the nucleus of the Minster
Library; Bp. Porteus (b. 1731);
John Flaaman^ the sculptor (b.
1755); and WtOiam Etty, B.A.
(b. 1787). Throughout his life
£:tty*s fondness for his birthplace
was marked. In 1828 there was a
project for taking down the old
waUs, which rais^ his highest in-
dignation. "Is it possible," he
writes, "that such barbarians exist
in the 19th century at York ?— York,
that gave birth to Flaxman, the
glory of his country, and the ad-
miration of foreigners?" In 1846
Etty bought a house in Coney-st.
(somewhat back from the street, and
close to St. Martin's Church), where
he painted his < Joan of jAjtc,' and
where he died, 1849. There is no
great picture of Etty's in York.
Thos. Oent, the printer, an Irish-
man, settled here, where he wrote
and printed most of his books. (An
amusing sketch of his life will be
I found in Southey's * Doctor.') He
died at his house in Peteigate, 1778.
I Lindtetj Xwrray^ a native of Penn-
72
Boute 1, — York: Excursions.
Bylvanut, came to Eneland in 1784,
and settled at York. He died
([a Qoaker) in 1826. The house
in which Hudson (the Bailway
Einff) fint set up as a linendraper
in York is in CoUege-st. (near St.
William's College). Finally, let us
not forget in York that Bobinson
Crusoe was "of York, mariner. I
was bom," he says, "in the year
1^2, in the city of York, of a good
family, though not of liiat count^.*'
Exeunions hy JRaUtoay. — Knaret-
howugh(l ^r) "id Harrogate (1 hr.)
with the intcnmediate stations, may
easily be visited from York. (For
all these places see Bte. 20.) Bo-
roughbridge (1 hr. 5 min.) and Aid-
horought with its Roman relics (see
Bte. 19), may also be the objects of
a day's excursion.
Sheriff HuUm CasOe (see Bte. 12)
may be reached by a pleasant walk
of 2 m. from the Flaxton stat. (25
min. from York), on the Whitby and
Scarborough rly. ; and Castle Howard
(44 min. from York, on the same
rly., see Bte. 12) is also accessible.
Oming Casile (Bte. 18), Rievnulx
Abbey (Bte. 18a), and Selby Abbey
Chweh (see the present route, ante),
may be visited in one day from York.
Selby is reached in } hr. by rly.,
and Howden Church (Bte. 5) may
easily be seen in the same day.
For Gilling and Bievaulx the dis-
tances are considerable, and the
trains are inconveniently timed for
tourists.
Shorter Days* Excursions; tealks
or drives.
The country in the immediate
neighbourhood of York is flat and
onpictnresque ; but there are some
interesting churches to be visited,
and the antiquary may find his way
to the batUe-fields of Stamford
Bridge and Maxvton Moor.
[The great forest of Galires an-
ciently extended from the north wall
of York as far as Easingwold and
Craik. It comprised nearly the
whole of the wapentake of Bulmer;
about 60 townships, and nearly
100,000 acres of land ; and con-
tinued a royal forest until 1670,
when an Act of Parliament was
obtained for its division and en-
closure. Leland (temp. Henry Vjjj..)
describes that pcHdon of the forest
between York and Sheriff Hutton
as " in the first part" (nearer York)
"moorish and low ground, and
havinff very little wmkI; in the
other higher, and reasonably wooded."
It abounded in " wild deer." Galtrea
is the < Cahiterium Nemus ' of
Geoffry of Monmouth, who makes
it the scene of his story of Arthegal
and Elidure.3
a. HesUngton Hail (2 m. S.W.
of York, long the residence of the
Yarburgh family) is an Elizabethan
mansion (restored and partly rebuilt
by G. J. Yarburgh, Esq.), with a fine
hall, containing some portraits of
interest. Among- them are : — Queen
Elizabeth, Charles I., Vandyek ; James
n., Wissinqj Charles II., Henry
Prince of Wales, Prince Charles
Edward, Duchess of Orleans, Lely;
Duchess of Grafton, KneUer, In
the gardens are clipped hollies and
yew-trees, well hannonizing witb
the house.
The Chwch was rebuilt in 1858.
In the park, 1. of the road, not far
from the house, is Seteard^s Mount,
about 50 ft. in diam. at the top
and about 15 ft. in direct height.
There is no sign of outworks a£>ut
it, and it is uncertain whether the
name preserves that of the great
Earl Siwaid.
There are striking views of York
from the Heslington road, which
give some idea of what the ap-
proach must have been to the city
m ancient days, with its Minster,
Castle, great Abbey, many churches,
Boute 1. — Torh : Exeunians.
73
and endrdiag walls. A windmill,
which stood rt of the road £rom York,
maiiced the spot where Archbp.
Scrape was behoaded.
b, *3uhopthorpe (2) mX the
pakce of the Archbishops oi York
since it was purchased and attached
to the see bj Archbishop Gray
(1216-1255), is on the rt. bank of
the Onse. Its ancient name was
St. Andrewthorpe.
The vanlted foundations of the
fitisting palace and part of the
wall next the river, ito lancet win-
dows and bnttresBes, are of E. £.
cbancter, and are the only remain-
ing portions of the pahu^ that was
built here by Abp de Gray. The
pKwnt boilding is of Tarions dates ;
hat bean for the most part the stamp
of Abp. Drmnmond (1761-1776),
who bnilt the gatehouse and the
principal front in Strawberry hill
style. The chapel is a mere sqoare-
sided room. In the dining-room
lie portraits of the Archbishops,
of oonsideiBble interest Markham,
by BeynoldB ; Herring^ by Hogarth ;
also George III. in robes, and Earl
Hareonrt, with a Beefeater, by Bei^.
WeiL The palace, though large and
well amnged, is of little architectural
importance. In the hall of Bishop-
thmrpe (no longer existing — although
the iiresent dining-ioom may occupy
itM Mie) Abp. Scrope and the Earl
Hfi^FJiftf were condemned (June,
1405) by a certain knight named
Fnlthorpe; the King (Henry IV.),
who was present, haying first com-
numded C%ief Justice (£ucoigne to
prononnce sentence on them. Ghis-
eoigne fimily refused, on the plea
that the laws gaye him no juris-
diction oyer the life of the prehite.
The archbishop was beheaded, pro-
testing th&t << ne neyer intended evil
agunst the Pfliwn of King Henry,"
on Bisfac^* Hill, between York and
Bishoptliorpe. The windmill which
nmked the spot was taken down 1881.
(See onfe, for his grpre in the Minster.)
The gardens of Bishopthorpe are
large, aV>und in fine trees, and are
flanked by two stately avenues. It
was long the custom for passing
trading-vesBelB to fire three guns — a
signal which was answered by a supply
of ale from the palace. The church
of Bishopthorpe was rebuilt by Abp.
Drunmond in 1766, and is of the
same nondescript Gothic as the rest
of his work. He is buried in the
chancel.
c. * Two very interesting churches
— Skelton and Nun Mont^n, and a
third, Overton, worth a visit — ^lie
within a short distance of each
other, N.W. of York. By road
Skelton is 4 m. from York, Over-
ton 1 m. from Skelton, and Nun
Monkton 2 m. from Overton. The
pedestrian may, if he prefers it,
proceed to the Skipton stat (5} m.)
on the York and Darlington Rly. ;
walk thence to Nun Monkton
(2} m.), to Overton (2 m.\ and
to Skelton (1 m.). From Skelton
he can either return to York (4 m.)
or to the Shipton stat. (2 m.), but
he should be told that every train
does not stop at Shipton.
The little Church of All Saints,
SheUonf a conspicuous mark, since
it stands high above the village,
is throughont E. £., and is tra-
ditionally said to have been built
with the stones that remained after
the completion of the S. transept
of York Minster. It is without a
tower, and the nave and aisles are
under one roof. The S. porch,
with a deeply-splayed doorway, is
original, but the shafts are modem.
The windows are single lancets,
except at the E. end, where are
three lancets of equal height, with
a ** vesica " in the g&ie. A
stringcoune runs round the but-
tresses and over the windows, and
is a pearshaped moulding, with
the nail-head ornament on both
sides (the same string is used
74
BaiUe 1.— York : Nvn MmkUm.
thxoughout the interioO. A
yeiT elegant bell -cot for two
bells rises over the chancel arch
within ; the E. window is much en-
riched with banded detached shafts,
and the tooth-monlding. There is
an E. £. piscina on the S. side of the
altar, and an amnbrie, with bracket,
on the N. The font is unusual. The
ornamentation of the windows de-
serves special notice. The vaulting
is modem. Overton, the least im-
portant of the three churches, was
chieflj Trans.-Norm., with Dec. win-
dows inserted ; but the walls having
become dilapidated from burials close
to them, were rebuilt 1854, at the
cost of Hon. L. F. C. Dawnay. A
small priory of Gilbertine Canons
was foundea here bj Alan de Wilton
in the reign of John. 8t. Mary's, Nun
Mankton (restored 1873), archit. J. W.
Walton, is E. £., and very beautiful.
The village was known as Monkton
at the tune of the Domesday Survey
— ^probably indicating the site of a
Saxon monastery, ia. the reig^ of
Stephen, WiUiam de Arches, and
Ivetta his wife, founded here a priory
of Benedictine nuns. The church,
which was the chapel of the nuns,
stands at the end of a noble avenue
of elm-trees, and dose to Nun Monk-
ton Hall (J. Grawhall, Esq.), which
occupies the site of the priory. Before
the late (1869-1873) restoration, only
the nave and W. front with the belf ly
tower remained. The chancel had
been entirely destroyed. The W. front
— **oi veiy singular design, perhaps
unique, and remarkably elegant'' —
J, A, P.— consists of a Trans. -Norm,
doorway, with a gabled pediment,
and three £. E. lancets above it, of
which that in the centre rises into
the tower. The tower windows,
square-headed and trefoiled, should
be noticed, as well as the corbel
table above them. The lancets are
much enriched with the dog-tooth.
On either side of the portal (and of the
same date) are round-headed niches,
in one of which remains the muti-
lated figure of a king. The aisle
windows (high in the wall) are lan-
cets ; and on the S. side are three
doorways. The westernmost (the
nuns' door) is rich Trans.-NQiin. ;
the central doorway is walled up,
and was perhaps the prioresses door;
the easternmost, or priests' door, has
been faithfully restored, one jamb and
a portion of the arch having guided
the work. These doors probably
opened from a cloister. The interior,
very striking before, is now rendered
still more so by the modem chancel.
The windows of the nave, which
are plain externally, are rich within,
having shafts with well-moulded
caps, bases, and bands. *< Between
these windows are lancet-shaped
arches, with trefoil - headed nicnes
above them, opening into a trifo-
rium or passaee in the wall; the
whole range forming ti sort of rich
triforium arcade.'*— ^. fl. P. The east
end has a triplet filled with stained
glass by Morris and Co., representing
various scenes from the life of the
B. Virgin, the central subject being
the Adoration of the Shepherds.
The reredos below is of Caen stone,
with shafts of serpentine, — ^the figures
by Forsyth. The manner in which
the three walls of the tower within
the church are supported by arches
is peculiar, and is an early instance
of an arrangement (the tower opening
to aisles as well as nave) almost
confined to Yorkshire. Two cofiln-
shaped gravestones with crosses,
found under the flooring during the
restoration, are cramped to the wall
in the N.W. angle. The font is £. £.
The ch. of Nun Morikton is not far
from the junction of the river Nidd
with the Ouse. The Ouse for some
distance, and both rivers after their
junction, skirt the park of Bening-
hrough HaU (Hon. Payan Dawnay).
The abbot of St. Mary's, York, had
at Beningbrough a large and well-
stocked park. BeningDnmgh is in
the parisn of NewUm^upon-^Uttse the
B(mtel, — York: Excursions,
75
ch. of which (3 m. N. W. from Shipton
stat.) was rebuilt in 1849 (except the
lower part of the tower, which is
NomL), at the cost of the Hon. Ljdia
Dawnay. The spire (150 ft.) is a
grood landmark. The E. window is
hj WiOemenL There is a modem
Inran in the chancel (with effigies)
for the 6th Lord Downe, rector of
Seasay and Tfaormanby, died 1846 —
and his wife. Overton and Skelton
are on the I. bank of the Onse.
Bed Houscj on the Onse, ' 1} m.
below Nmi Monkton, was an ancient
seat of the Slingsbjs. It is now a
farmhonae, bnt the chapel remains,
built by the father of Sir Henry
Slingsby the Cavalier, whose 'Me-
iDoin' were partly edited by Sir
Walter Scott ; and the whole by the
Bev. D. TaiBOoa, The honse itself
was built by Sir Henry; and the
room still remains in which King
Charles slept, in 1633, on his way into
Scotland. The canopy of the royal bed
(of bhie damask) is also preserved. At
the W. end of the chapel is a gallery
and staircase, removed from the
boose, where they had been erected
by Sir Heniy himself. " Upon every
post of the staircase," he says, *'a
crest is set of some of my especial
friends and my brothers-in law ; and
upon that poet that bears up the half -
pace that leads into the painted
chamber there sits a blackamoor
(east in lead by Andrew Eame),
with a candlestick in each hand to
set a candle in to give light to the
staircase.** This *< blackamoor*' has
lost his hands. Some stained glass
remains in the £. window . of the
cha^l, which was consecrated by
Thomas Merton, Bp. of Lichfield,
after Abp. Nesle had refused to
consecrate it, ''lest it may be occa-
sion of conventicles.** Charles I.
whilst here in 1633 was present at
a race on Acomb Moor when a
favoorite horse of Sir Heniy Slings-
br's won the plate. The effigy of
this vietorioms steed was placed in
the gardens of Bed Honse, where it
still remains, mnch mutilated. Sir
Henry was an active Royalist, and
after many troubles was sacrificed
by Cromwell in 1658, when fears of
a rising of the King's party were
apprehended. He was beheaded on
Tower-hill, and buried in Slingsby
chanlsy attached to Knaresborough
Ch. (see Rte. 20).
d. Eteriek and Shipieith may be
visited from the Escrick Stat. (See
the present Bte. antB,)
e. The battle-field of Stamford
Bridge (9{ m. N.E.) will be reached
by the York and Market Weighton
Bly., and is described in Bte. 8.
Both here and at Marston Moor the
imagination must see more than the
eye, Marston Moor is 7 ul W. from
York, on the Wetherby road, but is
quickly reached from the Marston
Stat, on the rly. between York and
Knaresborough. (For it see Bte.
20.) The battle-field of Towton is
2 m. W. of Chureh FerUon Stat.
(Bte. 2 and Bte. 43), and may be
made the object of a day's excursion
from York.
76
Route lA. — London to Torh,
ROUTE lA.
LONDON TO YORK, BT LUTON. BED-
FORD, LEICESTER, LOUGHBOROUGH,
AND TRENT JUNCTION.
(Midland Badway,)
From St Pancras or Moorgate-
street and other Metropolitan stations.
9 trains daily ; 5} to 6 hoars from St
Fancras.
This route, though rather
longer than that hj the Great
Northern, is preferred hy many. It
passes through more picturesque
scenery, especially in the Trent
Valley, whether the train eoes vid
Derhy, or directly from Trent to
Chesterfield. The laree map of the
Company's Time Tame is a useful
companion on this route.
A number of suburban stations are
rapidly psssed, and sereral short
tunnels. After passing the great
" Welsh Harp " reservoir between
Cricklewood and Hendon, the train
enters the open countiy, and runs in a
direct course for many miles. To the
left of the line, and nearly parallel
with it, is the old Roman Boad to St
Albans. Presently the train enters
the Elstree tunnel, 1060 yards, which
cuts through Woodcock Hill, the
summit line of which separates
Middlesex from Herts. Thus the
tourist passes from one county to the
other in this tunnel. The Colne is
crossed beyond
BadleU Station, and on the 1. is
Parkbuiy Lodge. Bunning on in a
nearly straight line the train comes in
sight of the town and old abbey of St.
Albans, to the left of which are seen
the wooded hills of (jk>rhambury,
where Lord Bacon had a residence.
After psssing Harpenden, the line
crosses the Lea and enters Bedford-
shire, and proceeds to
Luton Stat, looking down upon the
beautiful park of Luton Hoo. The
northern outcrop of the chalk that
underlies the London basin is well
seen in the cuttings hereabouts.
Passing four small stations,
Bedford is reached, and thence the
line proceeds, crossing the Ouse several
times, into Northamptonshire, which
it enters at about a mile before
reaching
Irchetter Stat The Ise is crossed
just before reaching
WeUinghorough Stat, 65 m., where
the Midland Company has a locomotive
establishment and goods depot The
branch line to the left fl;oes to North-
ampton. The ironworks passed on
the rt. show that we have now entered
a different geological region from that
which immediately surrounds the
metropolis. After passing Kettering
and some minor stations, l^icestershire
is entered on crossing the Welland at
Market Harborough, with its fine
Church, said to have been founded by
John of Gaunt, and where Charles
rested on the night before the battle
of Naseby, the fidd of which is 7 m.
distant. Passing Kibworth Beau-
champ, the birthplace of Dr. Aitken,
onl.,
Ldoetier is soon reached ; its spires
and factories are seen from the line.
BaiUe lA. — London to York.
77
The nilwaj ascends the valley of the
I Soar, and croeses the Wreke near to
its jnnction with the Soar, and the
windings of both rivers are seen;
passing the qoarries and kilns which
produce the hvdianlic lime of Barrow-
on-Soar, and the granite quarries of
Monnt Sorrel, a huge granitic rock
described by Sedgwick as *<an out-
Iving boulder** resting on the clay,
the line cioeses the Soar a little
beyond Barrow-on-Soar, and the fox-
hunting village of Qnomdon on 1. The
Chamwood lulls are finely seen on 1.,
Loughborough Stat, is passed. The
train ften runs on an embankment
over Loughborough Moors, recrosses
the Soar, and enters Nottinghamshire.
After passing Hathem and
Kegufotih Stat, with its fine spire
« rt, and Kingston Hall, the residence
of Loid Helper, also on rt, we approach
the ridffe of Bed Hill, running £. and
W. Itoe the line from Leicester is
doubled, for passengers and goods.
The Bed Hill tunnel is 170 yards long,
the N. end of the arch is flanked by
towen and battlements of stone. On
emerging from the tunnel the Trent
\ is crossed. The sceneiy heareabouts
is very fine, and continues so as we
proceed to the
Trent JtineL Stat., from which
there are two routes to Chesterfield,
the most picturesque being that vtd
Derby and the beautiful vidley of the
Derwent, passing Ambergate, where
the Amber joins the Derwent, and the
Katlock valley op^ens very finely, and
the line forks to right and left round
Cricfa HHl, which blocks ito due N.
course. The more direct rte. of the
express trains is up the Erewash
vaUey, the beauty of which is by no
means improved by its numerous coal-
pits and inmwoTKS. The Erewash
sepanUes Derbyshire from Notting-
hamshire, and the line frequency
croBses the river from one county to
the other. The line mns nearly
parallel to the Erewash canal for some
miles, in some parts between it and
the winding river. Several stations
are passed, including that of Alfreton,
or Alfred Town, said to have been
founded by Alfred the Great, and
presently after passing the smoky
region of Clay Cross, Chesterfield
is reached, and a good view is ob-
tained of its paradoxical spire, con-
cerning the inclination of which the
the tourist may form his own opinion.
The train now follows the direct line
between Chesterfield and Sheffield,
through varied rural, sylvan, and
metallurgical scenery, passing Sheep -
bridge and Dronfield with their well-
known colleries, and through the
Bradway tunnel; leaving B^uchief
Abbey and Hall on the rt., the line
mns parallel to the boundanr line
between Derbyshire and Yorkshire,
and crosses it near the station of
Heeley, a residential suburb of
Sheffield Stat (see Bte. 44).
From Sheffield to Biasborough,
Botherham and Swinton Junction, see
Bte. 45.
From Swinton Junct. the Midland
now runs directly to York in nearly a
straight line. After leaving the Junct.,
the Don is followed &r a short
distance, and the train then suddenly
emerges from the dark regions of coal
pits, coke ovens, and ironworks to a
pastoral plain, which continues to
BoUon-upon-Deane Stat., a brif;ht
clean agricultural village, contrasting
curiously with those left behind.
Similar thinly peopled district to
Clayton Stat Wooded hills on rt.,
and pretty soeneiy on 1.
Moorthorj^ Stat Undulating
country of sunilar character to
iieftiooftik Stat (see Bte. 28). The
78
BatOe 2. — Donccuter to Tori.
college is on L, but hidden by the
trees of the Park. The next stat is
Pontefract (Bte. 28). Proceeding
through pleasant count^, and passing
many liqaorice plantations and some
sections snowing the remarkable depth
of soil which favours this curious agri
cultural product, the train reaches
Burton Salmon Stat., and there
going Bte. 2, and proceeds br it to
York (Rte. 1).
ROUTE 2.
DONCASTER TO YORK. BY KNOTT-
INQLEY.
Cheat Northern Rly. to Knotting-
ley. Thence the line to York is
Yorkshire and N. Midland.
This was the main line of the Great
Northern BI7. from London to York
before the opening of the shorter
line by Selby, described in Rte. 1.
From Doncaster to,
168| m. from London, Arkaey (see
Bte. 1), the lines are the same. Soon
after leaving Arksev the present line
curves westward. 1. is passed OtMUm
Ckurehn IS. E. (tower and chancel),
with Perp. additions. A canopied
tomb of the 14th cent., with fine
oak-leaf crocketing, remains in what
is now the exterior walL The ch.
contains a monument bv Chantrey^
for Mrs. Cooke (d. 1818), and some
Munich glass. Bemarl^ also, the
bra$8 of Robert de Haitfield (1417)
and wife (1409), both wearine col-
lars of S.S. Adjoining is Owston
HaU (P. B. Davies-ax>ke, Esq.).
Here, among other treasures, is pre-
served the original MS. of the Liber
Landavenns, a book of documents
relating to the Ch. of Llandaflf, and
compiled about 1131.
m. Aakeme. (The rly. from
this Stat, to Knottingley is the Lan-
cashire and Yorkshire, with a right
of passing over it for the Great
Northern.) Hero is a* Spa of some
local reputation. There is a small
new ch., a tolerable Inn (the Swan),
and lodgings are numerous. The
water is ralphureous, and is said
to be useful in cases of gout and
iheumatiam, and in some forms of
cutaneous disorder. There is little
to attract the ordinary tourist, al-
though the chaims of the pump-
room, and of Askeme Pool with
its pleasure-boats, draw large occa-
sional Darties from Doncaster. The
"Pool, covering about 6 acres, re-
sembles that at Arksey, and has been
considered the crater of an extinct
volcano. Such hollows are, however,
produced by water charged with
carlxmic acid gas, which dissolves
the limestone. At the back of the
village stretches the "Mount," a
ridge of magnesian limestone, from
which a ffood view is obtained, chiefly
over the Tow country, eastward.
[The ch.of CkumpsaU (2 m. W.) has
a good Norm, tower, the arches sup-
potting which formerlv opened into
the nave-aisles, as well as into the
nave itself. There are some Nomi.
portions in the transepts, and the
chancel is E. E., but has perhaps been
rebuilt with old materials. The nave
is Peip., with fragments of earlier
work m it On the S. side of the
Rmte 2. — OampsaU — Bamadale.
79
tower wBS a vaulted chapel (Dec.)*
vHh a prie6t*8 room above it. The
Perp. Rood-loft remams, and is re-
minable for the inscription which
nms along at the top of the panelling
under the open arches. Intheroondek
above are tne letters I.H.S. and M.
The inscription is as f oUows : —
"LetfaldownefhyneandUltiip thy hurt;
Behold thy Maker on yond Groa al to torn ;
Semember his wondis that for the did
Gotten without ajn, and on a virgin bom :
AI hii hcd perdd with a crown of thorn.
AUbI man, thy bartonghi to brest in too.
Bewar of the devyl when he blawit his horn.
And piray thy gode anngel convey the."
The "devil's horn" frequently ap-
peals in early paintings; and the
'Shepherd's Calendar' has a poem
headed, 'How every Man and
Woman ought to cease of their sins
at the sounding of a dreadfnl horn.'
An inscription, nearly of the same
date as this, and somewhat similar,
nms nmnd the nave of Almonbury
ch., near Hndderafield — see Bte. 87.)
In the chancel are some incised slabs
(loth cent.]); and in the S. aisle
a cnrions inscription for Thomas
Clewoarth, vicar Tdied 1754), the donor
of a library, which remains in the
vestry. The books are chiefly theo-
logical, and of no great importance.
Among them is an early copy of Sir
P. Sidney's * Arcadia.' The vicarage,
adjoining, has been formed from a
house dating early in the 14th cent.
In the parish are CampsaU HdU
^B.Franx,£sq.) and Camm Mount
G. C. Yarbonmgh, Esq.). The
gronndB of Camps Mount contain
8Bme very huge and fine cedars of
Lebanon.
The old North road, following the
line of the Roman way (the Ermyn,
or, as it was here generally called, the
Wailing Street— a good fragment of
which may be seen close to the turn-
pike caUed ^^Bamsdale Bar"), runs,
about 2 m. W. of Gampsall, through
the ^seriet of Bofwdalo (probaUy
Beonu-dale, from the name of an
s
ancient possessor), one of the favourite
haunts of Robin Hood. The whole
of this tract (now for the most part
enclosed, and offering little that is
picturesque) was anciently covered
with forest, and afforded an excellent
retreat to bands of outlaws and
broken men, who ** took their prey "
from the nassengers along Watling
Street. (Ail the learning about Robin
Hood will be found in the 2 volumes
of ballads relating to him, edited by
Mr. Gutch (London, 1847) ; in Mr.
Hunter's pamphlet on Robin Hood;
and in papeis, by Mr. Gutch and Mr.
HalliweU, in the 8th vol of the
< Joum. of the Archssol. Assoc.') The
historical character of Robin is at least
doubtful. The first writer who men-
tions him is Fordun, who, in the * Sco-
tichronicon,' dating from the latter
part of the 14th cent., connects " that
most famous cut-throat," Robin Hood,
with this forest of Barnsdale, where
he is said to have been hearing mass
when word was brought him that
his enemies were at hand. He would
not stir until mass was concluded;
but then easily put his foes to flieht ;
and afterwards, savs Fordun, held
masses and the clergy in greater
veneration than before— a fact, how-
ever, which did not prevent him from
sundry attacks "on wealthy abbots'
chests and churls' abundant store."
Mr Hunter discovered the names of
Simon and Robyn Hode among the
" vadlets" or " porteurs de la chambre"
of Edward H.; and considered the
latter to have been the famous outlaw.
Mr. Wright, with great probability,
has suggested that Robin represents
some mythical personage — a ** Robin
o' the wood," who was not distantly
related to Robin Gfoodfellow; and
this view is much strengthened by
the fact that numerous mounds,
stones, and weUs are assigned to him
throughout the whole kmgdom. In
another fashion he is no doubt the
representative of the ** salvage " men
(suvaiioi), who, as the chroniderB
tell us, abounded in the great English
80
Boute 2.—Batn9dale — Norton.
forests during the period after the
Conquest, harassing the Normans in
many ways; and the shape which
this " gentlest of thieTes " has taken
in popular tradition was probablvthe
slow growth of later centuries. Here
in ** merry Bamysdale," howerer,
Bobin is for ns an actual personage.
It was here, according to the ballad,
that he caught the Biuiop of Hereford
and made him dance in his boots,
after paying a heavy ransom. (This
scene probably suggested that be-
tween Locksley and the Prior of
Jorvaulx, in * Ivanhoe.*) Here Bobin
fought Guy of Gisbome, and killed
him: —
*' I dwell by dale and downe, qaoth be»
And Roqm to take I'm eworne.
And when i am called by my ri|^t name
I am Gny of good Oiaborne.
My dwelling b In this wood tayes Bobyn ;
By thee I aet right nought;
1 am Robyn Hood of Barntedale
Whom thou ao long hast aonght.''
Sir Bichard of the Lee, whom the
proud Abbot of St Maiy's, at York,
would have spoiled of his inheritance,
met Bobin in the wood here, and was
supplied by him with the 4002. need-
ful to ransom his land : —
** When he looked on Bprnyadale,
He bly»-ed Robyn Hode.
And wht-n he thooffht on Bernysdale,
On Scathelock, M«ich and Johan,
He hlyased them fur the beet oonipanye
That ever he in come."
Bobin himself, after he had been
long detained in the King's court,
sighed for the merry greenwood of
Bamsdale : —
** Me longeth sore to Bernyadale ;
I may not be tberfh)."
The only existing relic of the out-
law in this district (it was no doubt
within the ancient namsdale, though
not in the small tract now so call^)
is JBo&i» HoocPb WeU^ on the roadside,
where the parishes of Kirkby-Smea-
ton and Burghwallis join. It is
dose to the highway ; and may have
been one of l£e sprinn at which, as
Bcde tells us, Edwin of Northumbria
hung brazen cups for the use of tra-
vellers. It was formerly the fashion
for passengers by the coaches to
alight here and drink of the water.
"&unken Bamaby'' himself tasted
it:—
•* Kefldt sitia artem modi,
Putenm Robert! Hood!
Veni, et liquente venfi
Vincta caUno catena
ToUens eitlm, parcnm odi,
Sol vena obalum costodi."
'*Wc all alighted at the highway/*
says Evelyn (1654), *'to drink at a
crystal spring, which they call Bobiu
Hood's Well ; neere it is a stone
chaire, and an iron ladle to drink out
of, chained to the seat.** The build-
ing which now covers the well was
erected at the beginning of last cent,
by the Earl of Carlisle, from a de-
sign by Vanbrugh. It is cut all over
with names and dates, the earliest
being 1711. In the park of Skel-
brook, opposite the well, is a spot
called the "Bishop's Tree Boot,"
marking the site of the oak round
which the bishop performed his in-
voluntary dance. The tree itself has
quite disappeared.
The church (ded. to St. Helen) of
Burqh WaUis (2 m. S. of Campnll)
is chiefly E. £. and is remarkable for
the entire absence of windows on the
N. side of the nave. In the nave is a
portion of a brass knightly effi^ (circ.
Hen. v.). There is no inscription ;
but it probably represents one of the
Gascoigns, who were long lords of
the manor. The little ch. of Skd-
brook (on the Skel **bum," about
1 m. trom Bobin Hood's Well) is
very rude E. E., and, like Bureh
Wallis, has no window on the N.
side of its nave.]
164} m. Norton Stat [2 m. W. is
Kirk Smeaton^ where a small £. E.
ch. with Peip. tower has been indif-
ferently restored. The valley of the
Went (Otoent, Brit., /cur — ^the stream
rises on the high ground S. of Wake-
field, and runs westward to the Don
BoiUe 2. — Womerdey—Ferryhridge.
81
at Goole) here offers the most pic-
turesque sceneiy in the neighbour-
hood. Smeaton ch. stands on the
edge of the valley, the green sides
of which are broken by **l^meaton
Craff$" projecting masses of mague*
sian limestone. Between Smeaton
and Went-bridge (an old posting
station on the great N. road), for a
distance of about 2 m. the valley is
called BroekadaJe (the "brock's^ or
badger*8 dale), and is narrowed to a
glen. On the 1. bank it adjoins Sta-
fUUm Park {— Barton, Esq.) ; and
plantations have been made on this
side of the glen, with ^een roads,
and seats at the best pomt of view,
above the crags of limestone. Patches
of meadow open here and there
along the sides of the sparkling
Went; and a steep rough nill (on
which are traces of entrenchments)
rises opposite. The Brockadale drives
are entered from the Went-bridee
side; uid in ascending from the
bridge towards the entrance, wide
views open over the wooded country
S. W. 2 m. from Went-bridge, toward
Ackworth, are the kennels of the
Badsworth Hunt]
166| m. Wamerdey Stat. The
spire of the fine Dec. ch. is seen 1.
It has been restored, and during the
operations a very interesting crucifix,
16 in. by 10 in., was found under
the chancel floor. Adjoining is
Womerdey Park (Lady Hawke).
The rly., beyond Womersley, is
bordered by large quarries, worked
in the magnesian limestone, here of
great value for building-stone, as
well as for burning. The smoke of
many kilns sweep round the train as
it reaches
171 m. Knottingley Junction, in the
midst of a deep cutting. fHere the
6t Northern and Limcadiire and
Tcfkshire raUways join. Our route
f(^ow8 as far as Milford Junction ;
rt a branch line (Gt. Northern) passes
to Snaith and Goole, Rte. 4 ; 1. lines
[TorMm.]
(L. and Y. and Gt. Northern) pass
to Leeds by Pontefract, and to Nor-
manton — ^the centre of a network of
rlys.— see Rtes. 28 and 41.)
There is nothing to detain the
tourist at Knottineley. The Aire and
Qoole canal (see Kte. 4) passes close
to the town, and, together with the
rly., o&en ereat facilities for the con-
veyance of lime from extensive Lime-
kUm, building-stone, &c. Chemical
works, roperies, &c., have been es-
tablished nere ; and there are four
ship-building yards.
A short distance beyond Knottingley
the rly. crosses the river Aire, a little
above Ferrybridge. This was the
principal pass on the river. The
present bridge dates from the last
cent.; but Leland describes a more
ancient one of 7 arches, which was
perhaps existing when, March 28,
1461 (the day before the decisive
battle of Towton), a fi^ht took place
here between Lord Fitzwalter, who
had advanced from Pontefract where
Edward IV. was present, and the
Lancastrians, under Lord Clifford
(the traditional murderer of the young
Earl of Rutland at Wakefield; see
Rte. 38). Early on the morning of
the 28th Fitzwalter heard the noise
of a sudden attack, and rose out of
his bed, taking a pole-axe in his
hand ; but, before he knew what was
the matter, he was slain. Clifford
himself, a few hours later, met, not
far from the same spot, with a similar
fate from a chance arrow. Fitzwalter,
according to Monstrelet, was undo to
the Earl of Warwick, who, when he
took the news of his death to Edward,
is said to have stabbed his horse in the
kine's presence (in token that he
womd ** do or die ), and then, kissing
the cross-hilt of nis sword, to have
sworn vengeance.
1 m. N. from Ferrybridge is ^
$Um HdU (Lord Houghton), in a we)
wooded park. The house, restored
after a fire, 1876, contains a very ex-
a
82
Boute 2. — Birkin Church — Sherbum,
tensive Library; some interesting
family portraits by Gainsboroughf
Lawrence, Wright of Derby, Eomney,
— ^the 2 dogs by Landseer.
Rt. of the rly. is Brotherton,
where Margaret of France, second
queen of Edward L, **hy channce
laboring as she went on hunting,^'
brought into the world (June 1, 13^)
her first child, the prince known as
Thomas of Brotherton, afterwards
Earl of Norfolk and Grand Marshal
of England. She had invoked St.
Thomas of Canterbury in her trouble.
Hence the name. The house in whidi
the prince is said to have been bom,
stood, says tradition, not far from the
church, which is of some interest.
174 m. Burton Salmon,
[4 m. E. of Burton Salmon is the
cb. of Birkin, which the antiquary
should by no means leave unvisited.
The manor of Hurst (afterwards
Temple-Hurst, 5 m. E., near Snaith,
see Bte. 1) was gnmted to the
Templars in 1152, by Balph de
Hastings; and it was under their
influence that the existing church of
Birkin seems to have been built It
is Norman, with the exception of the
S. aisle and the upper part of the
tower. The S. aisle is late Dec., temp.
Edw. in.; and the original Norm.
S. portal has been removed and re-
built in it This is much enriched
with different mouldings ; the devices
in the outermost (the pellet) mould-
ing being much vaned. Similar
mouldings ornament the exterior or
the windows of the eastern apse,
which, with the short choir, form
the chief feature of the interior. Both
are Norm. The arch into the choir
is more enriched than that opening
to the apse. On either side of the
choir is a round-headed window, with
shafts at the angles. The apse has
three Norm, windows, of which that
in the centre is filled with Dec. tra-
cery. Pien with enriched capitals
rise between the windows, and sup-
port the (fining. In the N. wall of
the nave is a remarkable monument.
*<It is a recumbent figure, cross-legged,
but unarmed, with the hands cloMa in
{>rayer, bare-headed, and habited in a
oose robe, bearing no insignia of rank
or order, and tempting the suspicion
that it is a penitential garment" —
O. A. Poole. Birkin ch. muist date soon
after the establishment of the Templars
here ; and differs, in the arrangement
of its choir and apse, from the many
small Norm, churches, existing wholly
or in parts on this side of Yorkshire.
There are no remains at Temple-
hurst.]
The rly. proceeds through the rich
vale of York-— a level and wooded
district, here without much interest
for the tourist. It reaches at
176 m. MUford Junct Stat, where
the rly. between Leeds and Selby
(Bte. 42) crosses the Great Northern.
(2 m. W. is SteeUm HaU, a 14th
cent manor-house (now a farm-
house), remarkable for the numerous
shields of arms on the gateway, and
for an E. Eng. chapel, now divided
into ordinary apartments. In that used
as a dining-room the piscina remains.)
177f m. is Sherbum Stat The ch.
(restored), with a plain and massive
Norm, nave, worth notice, is seen 1.
The S. doorway is also Norm., but
has been removed from its original
position and rebuilt The arch is
now pointed instead of circular, and
shields of arms have been introduced
instead of the original caps of the
shafts. The ch. is said to have
been partly built from the ruins of
a palace which the Abps. of York
had here, the foundations of which
exist in a field called the Hall
Garth. According to a local tradi-
tion Edward IV. ascended the tower
of Sherbum Ch. the day before the
battle of iWton. There was a sharp
skirmish at Bjierbum (Oct. 15, 1645)
Boute 2.— BoZton Percy Church.
83
between the King's forces and those
of the Parliament; in which Sir
Richard Hntton and many otheis on
the king's side were killed. Lord
Digby's ^ coach ** is said to have been
taken on this occasion at llilford;
and the slain were interred there.
The Boyalists had the same moining
taken 800 Parliamentarians, " laying
their arms in a great heap in the
8tz«et of Sherbum." These were
now recovered, with '* much rich pil-
lage." Sherbnm and its neighbour-
hood are famous for a plum called
the ^* wine-sour,*' which makes an
excellent preserve. Passing Church
Fenton ch. rt, we reach
180 m. Church Fenton Junct. Stat.
(SasUon, the scene of the so-caUed
baUU of Toiotofi(Bte.43),is 2 m. W.,
and is best visited from this stat.)
Here a line branches L to Harrogate,
hy Tadcaster (see Rte. 43). Passing
182 m. WMtdf Stat.— [1 m. rt is
the E. £. ch. of Kirby Wharf e, re-
stored as a memorial of the late Lord
Londesborough of Grimstone Park] —
183^ nL BdUm Percy Stat, is
reached. Here the ch. deserves
especial notice. It is fine Perp., with
a noble 15th cent, window of stained
gUw.
BoUon Ferey was one of the manors
granted hy the Conqueror to William
de Percy, founder of the great house
<A Nor&umberland. The ch. was
granted by one of his descendants to
Nostell rnorj; but was transferred
at the Dissolution to the Abp. of
York, in whose patronage it remains.
(A wood at Bolton Percy is recorded
in the Domesday Survey, and it
was from it that, according to tradi-
tion, ibe Percys made their principal
gnnt of thnber for the building of
York Minster.) The living is worth
1540L a year, and is the best in the
gift of the Abp. The existing fine
rerp. Ckwreh was built by Thomas
Parker, rector, between 1411-1423.
The whole is of this date, with the
exception of the upper part of the
tower and the wooden pordi. The
chance] is especially good ; and is re-
markable for the " excellence of its
workmanship and the grace of its
proportions.^ The origimil open roof,
simple but very graceful, remains.
The sedilia and piscina, S. of the altar,
should be noticed. The matrix of
a brass representing the Crucifixion,
with a kneeling &nre at the side,
remains at the ha&. of tbe central
sedile. Thomas Lamplugh, who
became rector in 1715, repaired the
church, and collected into the chancel
much of the stained glass scattered
through different windows in the
edifice. This remained untouched
until Archdeacon Creyke, in 1866,
restored the figures in the great
£. window, which had been more or
less shattered. This window, of five
lights, is unbroken by a transom,
although it is 23 ft. in height and 14-
broad. It contains 5 full-length and
life-sized figs, of Abps. Scrope, Bowet,
Kempe, Booth, and Neville. Below
are tneir shields of arms ; and above
are life-sized figs, of St. Peter, St.
Anna, Mother of the B. Virgin, tiie
Virgin Maiy, Elis., motiier of John
the Baptist, and St. John the Evan-
gelist.
The chancel has been reseated at
the cost of the same rector, who has
also filled the six side windows with
modem stained glass. The nave,
unusually for a Perp. church, has no
clerestory. One of the chancel piers
has been cut away to make room for
the ponderous Monument of Ferdi-
nondo, Lord Fairfax, who died at
Denton 1647, who commanded the
Parliament's centre at Marston Moor,
and was father of the more famous
Sir Thomas Fairfax, afterwards Lord
Fairfax— the "Black Tom Fairfax"
of Yorkshire tradition and G^eral-in-
Chief of the Parliamentary forces.
On the monument is a long and {^mi-
pous inseription, in which Lord Fair-
o 2
84
Bouie 2. — Nun Appleion Hall
fox is called " hmnanitatis repnmi-
cator." In this church, Sept 15, 1657,
Geoiffe Villiera, Duke of buckingham
(the hero of Diyden's famous verses),
manied Mair, daughter of Sir Thomas
(then Lord; Fainax. Cowlejr the
poet was the Duke*s best man, and
wrote a sonnet in honour of the
occasion. The ori^[inal seat of the
Fairfaxes in Torkshire was at Walton,
near Thorp Arch.
Nun AppUUm HaU (Sir Fred.
Milner, Bart), in this parish, was
the seat of General Lord Fairfax,
the hero of Milton's sonnet,
•^...M Whose luune In armB through
Europe rlnga,
FUling each moctn with envy or with praise.
And all her Jealous monaxcha with amaae.
And rumonra loud, that daunt remotest
kings."
A nunneij was founded here by
Adeliza St Qnintin in the reign of
Stephen, and on the Dissolution the
site was granted to Fairfax of Steeton.
His eldot son inherited it, and it
became the favourite abode of the
great general, who completed the
house here which had been begun hj
his grandfather. This was a man-
sion of red brick, with a centre and
two wings at right angles. There
was a large park with ime oaks and
800 head of deer. Here Lord Fair-
fax, after his retirement, amused
himself with his library, and a large
collection of coins, medals, and en-
gravings. Hence he opened com-
munications with Monk for the re-
storation of Charles H. Here he
entertained that general and his
officers at a banquet in the gallery,
and from the splendid stud whidi
be maintained here he provided the
horse on which Charles rode at his
coronation. From this place he
married his daughter (described by
Madame de Longueville as " a utUe
round crumpled woman very fond
of finery ") to the Duke of Bucking-
ham. Here his wife, daughter of|
Horatio Lord Vere, died, 1665 —
the heroic lady who interrupted the
court at the trial of Charles I. ; and
here he died himself, Nov. 1, 1671.
He was buried in BUborough church
(L of the rly., but not seen from it),
where the altar-tomb of himself and
his wife, enriched with shields of
aims and bearing a simple inscrip-
tion, remains on the S. side of the
chancel. Andrew Marvell, the poet,
was for some time a resident at I^un
Appleton, whilst giving "some in-
structions in the Wguages" to the
future Duchess. He has a poem en-
titled ' Appleton House,* and another
* Before the hill and grove at Bil-
borough.* Lord Fairfax, according to
Marvdl, laid out his gardens in the
figure of a fort, —
** The sight does fh»m their bastions plj
The invisible artllleiy;
And at proud Oawood Castle seems
To point the battery of its beama,
As if it quarrelled in the seat
llie ambition of iU prelate great"
Nun Appleton passed to the Du-
chess of Buckingham after her
father's death, and at her death it
was sold to Alderman Milner of
Leeds, whose descendant now pos-
sesses it The house has been much
altered, the wings pulled down, and
large additions made, but the old
north front is yet standing.
(At Appleton Boihwik, in this
parish, a good modem church has
been built.)
The same rich level country ex-
tends on each side of us as we pass
187 m. Copmanihorpe Stat (The
name, "kaup-manna*^ thorpe, signi-
fies ''the merchants' villiq^," and
marks a settlement of Danish traders.)
Soon the towers of the great Minster
come into view ; and through a breadi
in the old city walls we enter
191 m. Tarh Stat (See Bte. 1.)
BatOe 3.— London to HuH
85
HOUTB 3.
LONDON TO HULL, BT DONCASTER.
THORNE. AND QOOLE.-HATriELD
CHASE.
For the line from London to Don-
caster see Bte. 1. From Doncaster a
Imneh of the North-Eastem Blj. is
followed. There are 7 trains dailj.
The jonmey is performed in ahout
l^hr.
The rly., leaying Doncaster and
proceeding through a rich, level conn-
tr^, followB nearly the line of the
riTer Don, which has here been ca-
" ,to
Barnby-iM'Don Stat., where is a
ch. of some interest, restored. At
Kirk Bramtoiik (If m.), the church
has a Norm. 8. door, with a very fine
example of beak-mouldinp;. The
chancel arch is Norm«, the tower
early Dec.
BlaAnforth Stat Here a canal
stretehee across by Thome and Crowle
to Keadby on the river Trent. It is
still extensively used, although the
liv. foUows nearly the same course.
All tiiia country is thoroughly Flemish
in ehancter; and the canals, with
thev steep green banks and still
^atjBis, r^ecting every tree and
(jnaint building, are the precise
counterparts of those which stretch
away from the gates of Bruges or of
Tpres.
[2} m. S. of the Stainforth stat. is
the littie town of Hatfield (Pop.
about 2000) lying in the W. part of
Hatfield Chase, luwut 6 m. (by high
road) from Doncaster. The ch. —
ded. to St. Lawrence — ia large, and
occupies the site of one which existed
here at the Domesdav Survey. It
contains some Trans. Norm, portions
(at the W. end), and has a large E.
£ng. S. porch, but is for the most
part Perp. The tower is central;
and on it is the shield of Sir Edward
Savage, who was keeper of the park
at Hatfield under Henzy VIL lliere
are no monuments of importance.
Thomas of Hatfield, Bp. of Dur-
ham (1345-1381), was a native of
this phice.]
Hatfield Chase is a portion of the
district called "the Levels," extend-
ing into Lincolnshire and Notting-
hamshire. The <* Level of Hatfield
Chase," of which the boundaries are
roughly marked by the courses of the
rivers Idle, Tome, and Don, contains
about 70,000 acres, the greater part
of which, before the drainage of the
district by Cornelius Vermuyden in
the reign of Charles I., was con-
stantly under water. Large tracts of
the level, however, were, and still are,
covered with turf— several yards in
depth in some places, in others only
a few inches. "When the turf is
removed, a natural mould is dis-
covered, like that of the surrounding
country ; and a native of these re-
S'ons, who had often watched the
bourers on the moois, avers that he
has seen the land beneath the turf
Iving in riff and furrow ; as if, before
iaie turf collected upon it, it had been
submitted to the higher operations of
husbandry."— ^tinter. This turf, be-
fore the drainage, was so soft that a
pole might easily be thrust into it;
and oaks aad fir-trees of large size are
86
Rmte S,— Hatfield Chase : Drainage.
f requentlj found in it. Gotton-gntBs
and the Myrica gale (bog-mvitle),
besides heath and fern, erow thickij
over these moon; which, since the
drainage, have been diminished by
enclosures and plantations, and by
"warping** portions of them. (For
the process of warping see post,
Thome.)
Hatfield Chase is no doubt the
♦'Hethfelth** of Bede — the scene
(A.D. 633) of the battle between
Edwin the first Christian King of
Northumbria and the fierce heathen
Penda of Mercia. "There is an
obscure tradition that the battle was
fought near the present town of Hat-
field, and that the blood of the slain
flowed from the place called * Sley-
bur-hill Slack* to the thresholds of
the inhabitants.** — Hunter, Edwin
was killed in this battle; and his
head was afterwards brought to York,
and placed in the ** basilica** he was
buil^g there at ^e tune of his death.
(See Bte. 1, Torh, Minster.) After
the Conquest, the great Earl of
Wairene (whose remains have been
found at Lewes in Sussex), received
Hatfield and Conisborouffh, both of
which had been part of the lands
of Harold; and his successors held
them till the reign of Edward HI.
Hatfield then came to the Crown;
and the Chase remained Crown land
until it was granted to Vermuyden.
The Earls of Warrene, and the
English kings after them, had a
hunting-lodge with a park of 500
acres close to the town of Hatfield;
and it was here that William of Hat-
field, 2nd son of Edward HI. by
Philippa, was bom, 1336. (He died
young, and was buried in York
Minster; see his monument there.)
Here also was bom Henry, eldest son
of Bichard Duke of York, in 1441.
Edward BalUol, after surrendering
(1355) his rights as King of Scot-
land to Edw. in., lived for some
time at Hatfield ; and (either at that
time or when he was in England
before the capture of David Bruce)
hunted and fished without liberty in
the park and ponds, for which he
was afterwards pardoned by Edward.
^Bymer, ill 841. The Lodge or
Palace was, says Leland, " meanly
builded of timber,** and there are
still some scanty remains of it.
Henry VHI. remamed here a day
or two during his progress in York-
shire in 1541, and hunted in the
park; and De la Pryme gives a
curious description of a day's hunt-
ing here in 1609, in the presence
of Henry Prince of Wales, when
500 deer took to the water, and were
pursued by "a little royal navy** of
100 boats, which "ventured among
them, and, feeling such and such
that were fattest, drew them to land
and killed them.** Before the drain-
age, deer are said to have been as
plentiful in Hatfield Chase as " sheep
upon a hill;** and the fisheries, in-
cluding those of eels, were most
valuable and productive.
The Drainage of Hatfield Chase
was undertaken in 1626 by Comelins
Vermuyden, a Dutch engineer of
eminence, who had already been
very successful in his operations at
Dagenham on the Thames, and in
draining Windsor Park. Vermuyden
and his partners in the adventure
obtained a grant of one entire third
of the hnds to be recovered from
the waters. Many Dutch capitalists
joined him; and he was enabled to
engage a great number of Dutch and
Flemish workmen, some of whom
were exiles in England ; French
Protestants from Picudy, and Wal-
loons from Flanders.
About 24,000 acres were recovered
by Vermuyden and his foreign la-
bourers, but not without serious
opposition during the progress of
the works from the people of the
country, gentle as well as simple,
who beat, wounded, and even kiUed
some of the workmen, broke down
the embankments, demolished the
floodgates, and checked the works.
For a long while it was found neces-
Bouie ^.—HatfiM Chate^IAndMme.
87
auj to sUtion a military force on the
rto protect the enclosures and
houses of the Dutch settlers,
who lived for the most part in iso-
lated dwellings, dispersed through
the newlj-recovered country. In
1642, in consequence of a rumour
that Sh: Ralph Humbj, the Royalist,
was about to cross the Don and to
march into the Isle of Axeholm,
the Parliamentarian Committee at
Lincoln gave orders for breaking
thioogh the dykes in the Hatfield
LeveL This was done ; to the
delight of the neighbouring popu-
lation, whose great cause of com-
plaint was that the foreign set-
tleis had robbed them A their
rights of common. Damage amount-
ing to no less than 20,0<K){. was in-
flicted on the strangers in a single
night The people who carried out
the orders of the Committee "le-
velled the houses of the settlers,
destroyed their growing com, and
Iffoke down the fences; and when
some of them tried to stop the de-
stmetion of the sluices .... the
rioterB stood by with loaded rais,
and swore they would stay until the
whole levels were drowned again,
and the foreigners forced to swim
away like dQcks."--(£^iZm* * Lives
of the Engineers,' i. ch. 3, where
will be found an excellent account
of the whole undertaking^ Even
when the diuinage was effectually
finished, it gave rise to so plentiful a
crop of lawsuits and to such long-con-
tinned litigation that the projector
and ingenious executor is said (after
having also completed the drainage
of the Great Level of the Fens in
Norfolk and Cambridgeshire) to
have died ruined and in gaoL The
levels bionght into cultivation now
produce as abundant crops as any
part of the Fens of Lincolnshire,
though parts of this district are as
moch as 8 feet bebw high-water
mark.
Many Dutch and Flemish names
still remain in this district. Among
the orinnal settlers was Matthew
De la Fryme, who fled from Ypres
before the Duke of Alva ; and whose
descendant made collections for a
History of the Chase of considerable
value. (See post, Thome.)
In the centre of the great turf
moor, S.E. of Hatfield, is Lind-
hclme, an arable tract of about 60
acres, slightly raised above the level.
It is stul a perfect solitude; and
before the dramage was one of the
keepers' stations. Here a certain
William of Lindholme, half giant,
half hermit, is traditionally said to
have lived; and to have brought
here two large boulder - stones —
known as the "Thumb Stone," and
the "Little Finger Stone"— which
lie near the only house on the
holme. This house is modem; but
it has replaced a remarkable cottage,
framed in timber ("stud-bound^),
with a raised space at the E. end,
on which stood an altar. Toward
the west was a large flat stone,
under which remains of a human
body, some hemp-seed, and a small
defaced coin, were found in 1727.
There can be little doubt that the
phice had been the abode of a
recluse, who, like St Robert of
Knaresborough, had been buried
within the endosnre of his cell.
Drayton thus notices the sup-
posed rising and falling of tne
marsh-land with the rise and fall of
the neighbouring rivers : —
** Wbose soil, as some reports, that be her
borderers, note.
With water under earth undoubtedly doth
float;
For when the waters rise it risen doth re-
main,
Hiffh while the floods are high, and when
ttiey fall again
It Calleth."
The swelling and bursting of a
peat-bog in wet weather is a
well-known and vety serious occur-
rence.
[1 m. N. of the Stainforth stat.,
88
BoiUe S.—FishkJce Church.
on the 1. bank of the Don, across
which there is a ferrj, is
The fine ch. of Fithlake (which
the ecclesiologist should by no
means leave unvisited). Fishlake
is so called from a deep hollow in
the marsh-land, extending into what
was once a lake which abounded
in fish. It is said to have been
one of the places at which the body
of St. Gutnbert rested during its
wandering; and for this reason the
church may have been ded. to that
saint. It was originally erected
about the beginning of the 12th
cent, by the powerful familv of
Warrene, who were lords of donis-
borough and of Hatfield Chase
from the Conquest until IMG (20th
Edward UL). The ch. in the
village of Hatfield was the only
one within the lunits of the Chase
until the Warrenes built others at
Fishlake and Thome. The ch. at
Fishlake, with that part of the
Chase which lay N. of the Don,
and was assigned to it as its
" narochia,*' was granted by the
Warrenes to their priory at Lewes ;
and continued in possession of that
house until 1372; when, together
with other churches, it was re-
signed to the Crown in compensa-
tion for the ** naturalisation '* of
the Lewes Priory, which had
hitherto been alien, and dependent
on Clugny. In 1387, Richaid II.,
at the instance of Thomas of Hat-
field, Bp. of Durham, who had died
in 1381, settled Fishlake on the
new college (then "Durham," now
Trinity College) at Oxford, which
the prior and convent of Durham
had just founded. At the Beforma-
tion, Fishlake reverted to the Crown,
and was given by Henry VUI. to
the Dean and Chapter of Durham,
who still hold it.
The size and beauty of the ch.
sufficiently prove the wealth and
resources of its several possessors.
It is built throughout of stone,
which must have been brought up
the River Don at no small cost.
The S. portal, very fine enriched
Norman, of about the same date as
that at Iffley, is of course part of
the Warrenes* ch. It is of four
orders. The outer circle of orna-
ment has been thought (but this is
very uncertain) to represent the
session of the righteous in glory ;
the figures are arranged in pain,
within oval compartments. The
inner ciroles contain «^iif?n^^f and
leaf-like ornaments. The capitals
of the shafts have grotesques and
other subjects not easily interpreted.
The nave piers and arches are
Transition (E. £. to Dec.), with a
fine and lofty Perp. clerestwy above
them. The Western ^(ower (Perp.),
with a noble W. window of 5 lights,
has arches opening N. and S. to the
nave aisles, and closed halfway up
with solid stone screens. The irood-
acreerit dating about 1500, remains
in its original position, and has been
repaired by the Dean and Chapter
of Durham, the restorers of the
chancel. The lower part of the
chancel seems to be Dec.; but the
clerestory has been copied from that
of the nave, and is of the time of
Henry VIL, as are also the chantries
at the E. end of the nave aisles.
The font (Perp.) is octagonal, with
niches containmg fiffures of saints
(among them St Cu£b^), of Pope
Gregory the Great, and of two
archbishoDs, St. William of York
and St. Wilfrid, distinguished by the
pall. The bosses underneath the
tx>wl represent each an angel bearing
an infant in his anns.
In the chancel is the altar-tomb
of Richard Marshall, vicar (1496-
1505). The brasses have been
removed ; but Dodsworth pre-
served the inscription, part of whidi
ran —
« The VI. vicar of thla church, of good iame
without rage.
In whose time this chancell and Vtttrv
bUdite was."
(This, however, can hardly refer
Soute 8.~Thorne.
89
to the piers and arches, which are
almost certainly older.) The un-
usual oniamente of the tomh de-
serre notice. In the front are the
srmhoia of St. Anthony (a tau ciobb
ajid two helis), between the words
" Jesn Merey," *« Lady Hdo."
In a niche on ite W. side of
the lofty Perp. tower appears St.
Cnthbert, carrying in his right hand
the head of St. Oswald. (The 2
patron saints of Darham were fre-
quently thus represented.) Bemark
tiie fine pinnacled bnttresses mark-
ine the division between the nave
atues and their eastern chantries ;
and the north porch in the nave
opening throogh the broadened base
of a bnttreas.
The ch. of Fishlake rises grandly
o\er the Level, of which it is one of
the great landmarks.]
11 m. Thome Junct. Stat. Inm:
Bed Lion; White Hart. An active
market-town, carrying on consider-
able trade in com^ C4wl, and timber.
The Don rans about a mile to the
N.W. of the town, and on it is
sitoated the Quay called the Water-
tidet resorted to by sailing vessels,
and, when the tide permits, by
steamen from Hull. This is the
TMtt of Thome. Ships are built
nere, and at ELangman^ Hill (about
I m. from the town, so called be-
canee some of the men who
destroyed Vermuyden's sluices were
executed here). Part of Vermuv-
den*s house is still standing in the
town of Thome. The ch., founded
like that of FisUake by the War-
renes, is small, veiy late Dec., and
of no great interest. There was a
small peel or castalet at Thome,
whi^ was used as the prison
for offendera in the Chase. This
has disappeared ; but the mound
on which it stood still remains,
planted with ash-trees. Abraham
De la Pryme, who made large
cdlections (preserved among the
Lansdowne MSS. in the Brit. Mus.)
for the history of this district, was
(1701-1704) peipetual curate of
Thome. To the £. of the town ex-
tends a wide Turbary or turf-moor,
occupying an area of 6800 acres:
large quantities of peat are cut from
it and exported in barges along the
canals and drains to York and Hull.
The bog encloses the remains of a
buried forest; and hurge trees, oak,
ash, beech, &c, from 60 to 120 ft.
long, have been dug up here, and
from ihe excellent preservation of
the timber have been sold for 52. or
even 152. each.
Extensive tracts lying between the
Ouse and the Trent have, since 1825,
been converted from heath and morass
into profitable pasture and arable land
by the process of warping (A.-S. toeor-
pan — to turn aside, and it is still
going on with success to the E.
of Thome, on the borders of the
Trent, near Eeadby. The contents
of these rivers are apparently "half
mud, half water, and turbid enough
to suffocate the fishes.'' The earthy
matter is washed down from the
high grounds. When the waters
are most heavily laden the land-
owners on the bttoks open the sluices,
let in the flood, and retain it until
it has left behind its fertilising
ooze. From 3 to 6 or more feet of
rich black vegetable mould are
thus deposited, so fine that the
whole might pass through a sieve.
Three years of warping generally
suffice to convert the most barren
lands into fields teeming with fertility,
clothed with clover, or growing the
richest crops of wheat, beans, potar
toes, and flax. A similar process,
known as "colmate,^ has been for
some time used with great advan-
tage in the Tuscan Maremma, and
in other districts of Italy.
(From Thome another line of Bail-
way (S. Yorksh. and M. S. and L.^,
runs by Orowle to Keadby where it
crosses the Trent; and thence by
Bametby to Great Grimsby. For
90
Route 8. — Ooole : Docks.
)
these places see the Scmdbooh for
Lincolnshire,)
Leemng Thome, and skirting
Thome Waste, the train, in i hr.,
reaches
OooiU (Inn : the Lowther Hotel),
on the Onse, a port of increasing
importance, situated a little above
the point where the Ouse and the
Trent unite to form the Humber (Pop.
in 1881, 10,339). A pier and docks
have been constracted here hj the
Aire and Calder Navi^tion Company,
the proprietois of the¬tingley and
Goole Canal, which, however, since
the fomiation of this railway- and of
that from Knottinglej (see Bto. 4\ is
hut little used. Jmut and vegetaoles
in great plenty are imported here from
Antwerp and Rotterdam, and find
their way from Gkx>le into the centre
of Yorkshire. Iron and doth are
the chief exports; and much York-
shire building - stone is conveyed
hence to different parts of England
and the Continent. A large ch.,
.more pretentious than good, with a
lofty spire, has been built here by
the Company.
The canal terminates in a basin
and 2 capacious DoekB, one of them
capable of admittizLg vessels of 300
tons burthen, communicating by
locks with the Ouse; finished in
1888. The New Bocky calcukted for
steamers, 6 or 8 of which ply between
Goole and Hull, is entered by a lock
200 feet long and 58 broad. Large
warehouses and a timber-pond have
been erected contiguous to the
Docks. The sum expended by the
Company on these and other woiks
connected with the navigation exceeds
one million sterling.
Steamers run daily from Goole to
Hull in 2 houiB. There are also
small steamers to Antwerp and
Rotterdam (twice a week), and one
to Dunkirk weekly.
tBelow Goole, in a district lying
between the rivexB Onse and Trent,
and on the left bank of the old IXm,
are successively situated the three
parishes of Swinefleet, Whitgift, and
Adlinfieet, nearly every acre of
which has been converted by the
process of warping (see ante) from a
black, goose-feeding marsh to a land
rich in com and grun crops. In the
last parish, which appears to the eve
of the unfrequent stranger like tne
Ultima Thule of Yorksh&e, has been
established an excellent commercial
school by the charity of Madame
Maiy Ramaden ; the head-master-
ship being in the gift of the Master
and FeUows of Catherine College,
Cambridge.]
Crossing the Ouse at Goole, the
riy. enters the East Riding. On
the bank of the river, surrounded
by trees, is SaXJbmarske HaU (Philip
Saltmaishe, Esq.). This is one of
the most ancient families in York-
shire, and has been settled at Salt-
marshe probably from a period before
the Conquest.
There is a station near the village of
SaUmarihe (which is in the parish
of Laxton: the church is a bad
modem building); and at the next
station,
8taddkthorpe{iiie line of the Selby
and Hull rly. is joined.
The railway crosses the Warping
Drain and the Market Weighton
Canal, which falls into the Humber
opposite the confluence of the Trent,
before reaching
BroughStat,
The ferry here, over the Humber,
to Winteringham and Ferriby Sluice
in Lincolnsmre, is as old as the time
of the Romans, being on the line of
their great highway, Sie Ermin-street.
[The antiquary will find it worth
whde to drive from Brough across
the country to Market Weighton,
12 m. (or 14 by N. Cave). The
BaiUe S.—ElUmght(m Churek-^Hoikam HaU.
91
ehuvches of North Cave and Ncrth
Nmebdld are of great interest. The
Uodacape is not very pictnresqQe.
Low chalk hills lie rt. of the load.
The Church of EUoughton, seen
rt^ 18 modem, rebuilt, except the
tower m 1846. EUerker^ 1., is in-
terating as the place at which
Robert Aske was visiting his cousins
when the news reached them of the
risinff (the Pilgrimage of Grace)
in Liincohishire, and Aske was
chosen here as the leader of the
Toikshire insurgents. On the hill
rt. 18 Thorpe EaU (C. Sjkes, Esq.),
A large Elizabethan mansion. South
CcNfCj 3 m. from Brough, is a lone
straggling village, with a chnrch ot
Bome interest and of various dates
— ^Tnms., Norm, (chancel arch); £.
Eng. (arch opening to a transeptal
cha^l, S. side of nave), Dec. (chan-
cel and arches into N. chancel arch,
now closed), and Perp. (arcade of
DAve, and tower). The chnrch has
been restored, and there is some
modem stained glass. Close hj is
Cave CaeOe (Mrs. Barnard), a tur-
reted mansion, with some ancient
portions. The legend that the family
of Washington was established here,
and that the great-grandfather of the
famons general was bom here, has
been entirely disproved. The chnrch
of North Cavey 1| m. W., is more im-
portant This is thronghont £. Eng.,
uf remarkable size and uniformity,
consisting of W. tower, nave, and
aislea, transepts opening from aisles,
and chancel. The nave piers are circ.
wiUi plain caps, and above is a
3-light clerestory. At the end of the
nftve proper is a high arch opening to
the crossing, and Myond again is a
second arch opening to the chancel,
which is pemaps of a little later
date. The lower part of the tower
is E. Eng., the upper Perp. All the
ceilings are modem. On the N. side
of tiie transept is the monument of
Sir Thos. Metham, temp, Eliz.— the
effigy is in armour on a rolled
mattress. In the window of the
S. side is the alabaster effiey (Ja-
cobean), of a lady, also a Metham;
and on the floor is a curious inscrip-
tion:—
** ]U7 Father a North Briton,
My Mother Rutlandshire;
From Dublin 1 their son,
Hugh Montgomery, Esqr,
When my race la run.
Shall reet me in this cholre.
In hope, as he began,
God will raise me higher."
JEit. 68. A.D. 1748.
The hall of the Methams, who
formerly held the manor, was close
to the church, but has disappeared.
HoOuxm HaU (Col. Clitherow) lies
N. of the village. There is some
curious Norm, work in the tower of
Hotham Church. (Here was bom
John of Hotham, Bp. of Ely (1316-
1337) and Chancellor — ^who founded
a chapel in this his native place.)
On the side ot a steep hill at Dreuh
ton, in the par. of N. Cave, is a huge
boulder-stone 12 ft. high, which is
known as 8t AugtuUne'e ptUpU —
and of course the Druids have been
found in the name ^^Drewton." At
North Neubdld (2 m.) we regain the
direct road from Brough. Here is
a very remarkable Late Norman
church, with some unusnal featnres.
It has nave, central tower, transept,
and chancel, and is without aisles.
The tower rests on 4 lofty and wide
arches, with attached shafts and
scolloped capitals. The E. and W.
arches are ornamented with zigzag,
and have a roll-moulding in the
soffit The transept windows (East)
are wide-arched, with zigzag, and
have Perp. tracery inserted. In the
S. trans. (South) is an E. Eng. trip-
let The chimed has been restored,
and has Perp. windows. On the N.
side is a small Early Perp. chantry,
with the base of the altar remaining
under the East window. Against the
chancel wall is a tablet to the memory
of Sir PhiUp Montkton, the Boyalist,
93
Baute d.—MeUon—Hull
bom at Heck, near Howden, present
at Marston Moor and at Naseby, and
actiye in all ways for the king. He
was arrested and confined hj Crom-
well; died in 1678, and was bnried
at Sonth Newbald, where he was
lord of the manor. The Norm, win-
dows of the nave are high in the
wall, with wide splay, l^e font is
almost £. Eng. On the exieriw the
church is much enriched. Ilie tran-
septs have portals with zigzags. The
portal of the S. porch has much rich
moulding, and above in a vesica is
our Lord in Majesty, all covered
with whitewash. There are curious
corbel tables in nave and chancel,
with heads and grotesques, one being
a fox covering his eyes with his
paws. The tower is venr massive,
with an £. Eng. stage. N. Newbald
was attached to York Minster from
an early neriod. Between N. New-
bald and Market Weiehton the road
passes through the viUage of Sanc-
ton, in a rather pretty valley. Here
is a small ch., rebmlt, except the
tower, in 1869-70. The Perp. tower
is -good. Separated by a low wall
from the churchyard is a R. C. bury-
ing-ground, with a small open shrine
or chapel at the end, with a Pietk —
(the virgin supporting the body of
our Lord) — and a small lamp burn-
ing before it. Near is Enught»m HaU,
(C. Lanedale, Esq.) with a R C.
chapel. For Market Weighton, see
Rte. 8.]
Leaving the station at Brough,
we pass, 1., under the chalk hUls,
MeUon, where, towards the end of
the 13th cent. William of Melton,
Aichbp. of York (1817-1340) was
bom. The church of MeHon, seen 1.,
is E. Eng., and has been restored.
The estuary of the Humber,
backed by the Lincolnshire hills on
the S., now begins to open to view ;
while on the N. the elevated outline
of the Yorkshire Wolds is seen
stretching down to the river, near
29^ m. Ferriby Stat. (The church
of North Ferriby was rebuilt m 18i8.
It is of Early Dec. character, and has
many stained-glass windows.)
llie railway, passing to the S.
of Hesslewood House (J. W. Pease,
Esq.), reaches the water-side, and
is carried for a considerable dis-
tance along its margin. The river
here bears the aspect of a large
lake, its surface occasionally en-
livened by the smoke of a steamer,
or a passing sail. All view is for a
time intonated hy a deep cutting
tlux)ugh HesAe Clifi, a chalk hill, the
extreme limit of the Wolds, at
82) m. Hesde Stat. The church
has £. Eng. rN. and S. portals), Dec.
(S. aisle with good windows), and
Early Perp. portions. (Steamers 4
times daily to Barton, Lincolnshire.)
[^Barton Church, f m. beyond the
ferry, has a remarkable Saxon tower.
The rest of the ch. is Pern, and o£
little interest. See Sanabooh for
LineolnshireJ}
Near this are several neat villas,
together with chalk-pits, limekilns,
and whiting-miUs.
The rly. is carried along the mar-
gin of the Humber, here more than
2 m. broad, upon an embankment
of chalk, nearly a mile long, and
soon comes in sight of Hull and its
forest of ma^. The fields and
garden-gates on the i4>proach are
not unfrequently decorated with
huge jaw-bones of whales, trophies
of the whale-fishery, of which Hull
was long tibe principal seat.
The railway is joined 1. by that
from Beverley (Bte. 8), near the
Lunatic Asylum, and soon enters
HuU Junct. Stot (Paragon Stat.)
[There are two rafltoay ttatSont st Hull.
The Paragon Stat., near the W. entraooe of
the town, whence tnins leave tor lioncaster
and <>oole (the pmient route). Selby ( Hte.
1). York, by Beverley and Market Wei^ton
Rmte 3.— Hull : History.
93
(Rte. 8\ Bridliogton, Filey, and Scarborough
by Drlffleld (Rte. 9). and Malton by Driffield.
From this itatlon also trains leave Hull for
Withemaea (Rte. 6) and Hornsea (Kte. 7).
Tbe Vietaria I) ck station is at the east end
of Hull, and is used for the railways which
coimect Hull with London and the Eastern
Gooniies through Linoolnshire. It is also in
ooonectioa with the Hornsea and Withemsea
rlyv. (AH trains, however, on these two rlys.
■tart firom the Paragon StaL, and the con-
Bcctiao from the Victoria Stat, is at South-
BoUU^-Soyal Station (best), entned firom
the Paragon Stat, (good and oomfortable>
Wictaria, close to docks and pier. Minerva
also near the pier.
SUamtert.—To Aberdeen in 21 hrs.; to
Amtterdam; to^nhrerp(Wed.and Sat.); to
Brewun; to CkrisUamand and Vhriiiiania;
to Ommkoifm; to Dundu; to Ihtnkirk; to
Miinbwrffk ; to GoOentmrg (Sat.) ; to Havre ;
Co Bambnrg (Tars, 'lliurs. Sat.); to Londun ;
to £yiMi; to yeweoMOe; to JtoUerdam; to
SkUm; to St. Fetertburg (weekly); to rat'
noiit*. There sre also steamexa to Gainp^
Imougk, in 3| hrs.; to 6'ook hi 2 hrs.; to
Orimkry in l« hr.; and to rork. In 6^ hrs.
The starting-places and times of sailing of
all these steamers are duly advertised, and
may generally be found in Bradshaw.
Inhere are /oerria over the Humber 4 times
a <ki7 to Barton, and 6 or T times to New
HolUnd and back, from Victoria Pier.
The chief olOects of interest in Hull are»
the DedtM and the two Churcka of Holy
Trinity and St. Mary's. These may be esslly
seen to a long morning's walk from the Rly.
Hotel. Tuning Into Carr Lane, tbe visitor
will pruoeed throngh St. John St^ at the i^nd
of wtktdi Is the Wilberforce Memorial, and
croaaing tbe bridge brtween Queen's Dock
and Prince's Duck should take tbe south side
of Qoeeo's Dock as fisr as the opening of
Unrgafte. Desceodlog Lowgate, rt. is the
Town Hall and a little below, 1., St. Mary's
Church. The Market Place i ipens from Low-
gate, and rt. is Holy Trinity (%urch. (\
^e on the N. side of the ch. leads to Trinity
Honae Lane, In which is the Trinity House.)
pMung down the Market Place, the visitor
who has tfane at his disposal may cross the
South Bridge, near the mouth of the Hull
River, and. prooeeding along South Bridge
Road, visit the VIctoila Dock. At any rate
he aboald pass down (}aeen St. (In a line with
the Market Place), and see the view of the
Hnmber from the Pier. Here he will find
Uneelf dues to the Humber Dock, the Rly.
Dock, and tbe great Albert Dock, to each of
whkii he may give as much tfane as he
OogHD &, near the east end of the
Albert Dock, and Upper Union St., opening
fiom m will lead hla Into Dsbome St. ; and
Midland St^ at the W. end of Osborne St.,
oiiens directly In front of the Rly. Stat, and
the HoteL (The places here mentioned arc
described at length po$t.) This route will
take the strangt-r through the oldest and most
Intereeiing part of Hull. The best and newest
streets lie N. of the docks and the rly.]
The town of HuD, or Kinostok-
UFON-HuLL, ranking third in com-
mercifid importance and extent of
shipping among the seaports of
Great Britain (it is only sorpassed
hj Liverpool and London), is situ-
ated on the N. bank of the broad
Humber, at the junction of a small
and sluggish stream, the Hull, which
fives its name to the town. The
opulation, including the suburbs,
Sculcoates, Drypool, and Lutton, was
in 1871, 121,892 ; in 1881, 154, 250.
It cannot be said that Hull pos-
sesses much attraction for the ordi-
nary tourist ; but it is the great packet
station for the North of Europe;
and the larger part of the imports
from Holland, Denmark, Norway,
Sweden, Russia, and the Baltic, finds
its way to this port. It is therefore
a place of extreme bustle and ac-
tivity ; and the prospects from the
sides of the docks, crowded as they
are with shipping, are sometimes,
under good effects of light, sin-
gularly picturesque and interesting
The town first appears under the
Scimdinavian name of Wyke, which
here probably had reference to its
position on the river (vie = an inlet
or bay) ; it was first called Hull
temp. Rich. L; and at length re-
ceived the name of " King's Town "
from Edw. I., who visited it in 1299,
and must be looked upon as its real
founder.
The ground-plan of the original
" Kingstown " corresponds very
nearly (making allowance for the
irregular form of the ground) with
that of the numerous **£n$^h
town," called "Bastides," or "Free
towns," "Villes fianches," founded
94
Bouie 8.— Hull : History , Locks.
hj Edward I. in Guienne and
Aqnitaine — a long paraUelogTam,
crossed and recrossed by parallel
streets, with a lai^e open market-
place, adjoining which is the prin-
cipal ch. New Winchelsea, also
founded by Edw. I., was another
English town of this class; and the
sitiution of' Hull doselir resembles
that of Leybum or *^ Libome,** in
Guienne, at the junction of the
small rirer Isle with the Dordogne,
said, like that of Hull, to have Vsen
expressly chosen by Edw. L That
town was named from its chief
founder under the Kinff, Roger de
Levbum (of the great JCentuh fa-
mily, and not of Leybum in York-
shire). King Edward is said to have
been at BaTmud Castle, near Cotting-
ham (see fite. 8), on his return fnm
Scotland after the battle of Dunbar,
when, whilst hunting, he was acci-
dentally led to the hamlet of Wyke
or HuU, and was struck with the
adyantage of its position. He at
once purchased the site from the
Abbot of Meaux (see Bte. 7), to
whom it belonged, caused the new
town to be laid out, declared it free
(that is, the tenure of the inha-
bitants was made direct from the
Crown), and offered great privileges
and immunities to tUl who would
build and inhabit there. (See, for
the free towns of Edw. I. in Eng-
land and France, Farkei^% * Domestic
Architecture,' xiv. cent)
Hull, however* did not become of
great importance until after the de-
cay of Kavenser and Hedon (see
Rte. 6), which, owing to the waste
caused by the sea, was already ad-
vancing when Edward I. visited the
"Kings town." Sixty years after,
Hull had 80 far increased in pro-
sperity as to be able to furnish Ed-
ward in. with 16 ships and 460 men,
when the complement of London it-
self was only 25 ships and 662 men.
The chief intercourse was always
with the HaoM Towns and Flanders ;
and the antiquary will note the early
use of brick in H. Trinity Ch. and
in the ancient town walls, introduced
from the Low Countries.
That the jurisdiction here was
anciently somewhat strict, is evi-
dent from the traditional "thieves*
Utany,"—
"From Hull. Hell, and Hallftx,
Good Lord deliver vs.*'
The Hull, on the rt. bank of which
the town was founded, was at first its
only harbour : on its margin are to be
found the oldest houses and the most
ancient streets. The extent and
boundary of the old town are pretty
nearly marked by the course of the
Hull, and the direction of the older
docks (the Queen's, the Prince's, and
the Humber), which occupy the
site of the old walls. The space
thus enclosed by the docks and the
HuU, and converted by them into an
island of nearly trian^^ular shape, in-
cludes the most bustlmg part of the
town and the best shops; outside
extend long and monotonous lines of
neat dwelling-houses of more recent
date. The places to be noticed in
Hull are the *Doeks; the Chwrekes
of ♦H. Trinity and *St.Mai7; the
Trinity House; the Museum; the
Town Hall ; and the Dock Offices.
The most important features in the
town are (he Docks, which, though
far inferior in extent to those of Liver-
eK)l, yet well deserve attention. The
uU river itself forms a natural dock,
narrow, but thronged with vessels
and lined with warehouses for a dis-
tance of 1^ m. It is crossed by the
South Bridge near its mouth, and
about i m. higher by the North
Bridge. A cut from the Hull leads
E. into the new Victoria Dock.
Another on the W. communicates
with three other docks extending
from the Hull to the Humber, and
covering an area of 23 acres. The
Albert Dock opens from the basin of
the Humber Dock, and thus is in
direct communication with the Hmnr
Boute 3.— JTmZL- Docks.
95
ber itself. The visitor who desires
to make a thorough examination of
these docks had better proceed at
once to the most eastern — ^the Vic-
toria Dock— and so work westwards.
No dock existed here mitil 1778,
when what is now called the Queen's
Dock was completed. The Hmnber
Dock was opened in 1809, and the
Prince's Dock, connecting these, in
1829. The Railway Dock was opened
in 1846, the Victoria Dock in 1850,
and tiie Albert Dock in
The VieUtHa Book (opened 1850),
on the £. side of the Biver Hull,
occupies about 30 acres, and two
Ittve timber ponds are connected
wiui it It is almost entirely used
by ships importing timber from the
Baltic. The pal^t slips belonging
to this dock, used for raising and
inspecting vesBels, deserve special
attention. In excavating the Dock,
remains of a large submerged forest
were discovered.
The Qtisen's Bode, on the W. side
of the Hull, is, as has been said, the
oldest of the docks; and when
opened, in 1778, it was the largest in
P England. It covers nearly 10 acres ;
and IS used on the N. side chiefly
for timber, on the S. for general
merchandise. The Junction Bock,
uniting the Queen's and the Humber
Docks, covers 6 acres. The Humber
Bock Topened 1809 — engineer, John
Bennie) covers more than 7 acres.
This is used chiefly by trading-ves-
sels from Antwerp, Kotterdani, and
the Dntchports. The Baiheay Bock,
opening W. from the Humber Dock, .
is small, and was formed chiefly to
aid the transfer of goods from ship .
to railway. It is now mainly fre- |
qnented by ships from Sweden and i
Norway. I
The Humber Dock communicates i
with the Humber by a basin, pro-
tected 1^ piers. Between this basin
and the Hull is the Ferry Boat Pier,
which should be visited. The view
across the Humber to the Lincoln-
shire coast is here well seen.
The Albert Book (opened in 1869,
J. Hawkshaw, engineer) covers 24
acres; and the largest steamers can
enter with ease.
The passage across the docks is
maintained by means of drawbridges,
the leaves of which, though alx>ut
9 yards long, and weighing 40 tons,
are raised and lowered with great
celerity; a necessary arrangement,
as these bridges are in the main
thoroughfares of the population.
Steam dredging-machines are con-
stantiy at work in clearing away
the mud, which, owing to the co-
pious deposits brought down by the
waters of the Humber, would other-
wise soon choke the docks. From
80,000 to 100,000 tons are thus re-
moved annually.
A walk along the Queen's or the
Humber Docks will give the tourist,
who will hear many northern lan-
guages spoken round him, some in-
sight into the nature of the com-
merce of the town. He will see
ufoolpacke and barrels of yeast from
Germany, raw hidee^ hemp, and tal-
low from Bussia, com from Dantzic
and other Baltic ports (an immense
annual importation), and thin tron
bare from Sweden : this metal is im-
ported to be converted into steel at
Sheffield (see Bte. 44). Elsewhere,
hugh bales of cotton twitt, and of
cotton and woollen chth, are wait-
ing to be embarked, since Hull is
the port from which the cottons of
Manchester, the woollens and linens
of Yorkshire, and the lace and net
of Nottingham, are exported to
France, Germany, and tne N. of
Europe. 8aU is also an export.
On the W. side of the dock rise
lofty piles of timber from the Baltic,
forming a very important article in
the imports.
Hull was the first place in Eng-
land which encntged m the Green-
land fisheiy. Its merchants fitted
96
Boute 3.— IfttZZ ; The Quay, Trinity Eoxm.
out ships for that purpose as earlj
as 1598. They discovered the island
of Jan Mayen, and established a
fishery there; and the whalers of
Hull continued to be numerous and
of great importance until the present
cent., but nave now altogether dis-
appeared. It was a whaler of Hull
(tiie ItabeUa, Capt. Humphries)
which, in 1883, saved the lives of Sir
John Boss and his companions, who
had been 4 yrs. in the Arctic regions.
They were brought to Hull. The
general fishing trade is still of very
great importance here ; but Hull can
no longer be desciibed as "memor-
able for mud and train oil,*' in which
words Etty the painter, who was an
apprentice here for seven years, used
always to sum up the chief features of
the town.
The Quay, extending along the
Humber from the Victoria Hotel
to the mouth of the docks, at most
hours of the day presents a lively
scene, not only from ship, steamers,
and small coasting craft, but from the
keels and barges from the interior
approaching or quitting the roadstead,
and the numerous st^un-ferries and
packets crossing and recrossing. The
crowd collected on shore, especially on
the arrival or departure of a packet,
contributes to enliven the scene.
From Victoria Pier Ferry steamers
cross the Humber in i hour to New
Holland Rly. stat. and to Barton, many
times a day.
The Trinity House (one of three in
England, the others being at Lon-
don and Newcastle) is an establish-
ment for the relief of decayed and
distressed seamen of the merchant
service, their widows and children.
A reUgioDS guild of the H. Trinity
was founded in 1369, and in 1457
was incorporated witii a brother-
hood called the Shipman*8 Guild.
The Trinity House belonged to this
united society, and has continued
ever since. There are more than
80 inmates in the house itself, either
mariners or their widows; and up- '
wards of 1000 pensioners receive
annual relief, in amount from 22.
to 1GI.J from its funds, which are
furnished partly from property be-
queathed for the purpose, partly
from a levy of a shilling per month
from the wages of seamen belonging
to the port. The guild or corpora- >
tion enioys great wealth, privileges,
and influence in HulL It has the
charge of buoys and beacons along
the Yorkshire coast and np the
Humber, with the appointment of
£ilots for navigating it. The Trinity
[ouse itself was re-erected in 1753,
and is built round two courts, with a
chapel (opened 1848) between them.
The whole place is kept as clean and
neat as tiie decks of a man-of-war.
It contains some pictures and plate
of interest, and is shown on appli-
cation to the housekeeper. In the
hall, hung from the ceiling is a
Greenland 'Kayak,* taken up at
sea with a man in it, in 1618. The
figure now in the boat wears the
clothes, &c., of the man thus taken,
who refused to eat, and died in a few
days. Of the pictures, remark^^n
staircase — Capt. Cook, by Webber;
the Battle of the Nile, Smirke
and Anderson; and the Landing of
William HI. at Brixham. In the
Council-room (which, like the other
apartments, is kept strewn with
rushes, after the old fashion) are
portraits of Alderman Ferres, d. 1631
—one of the principal benefactors
to the House; Andrew MarteU, the
poet, bom at Winestead (Rte. 6),
and educated at Hull, for which place
he sat in 2 Parliaments, 1660 and
1661 (this is a copy from the Brit.
Mus. picture) ; Sir George Scmtte, by
Hudson ; and a full-length of Queen
Victoria, by 8ant In the dining-
room is a full-length of George HI.,
by Sir G. Chalmers: and a very
finely painted portrait of William,
Prince of Oran^, by (7. Netseher,
(This is a portrait of the Prince as a
young man, and is in a magnificent
Bouie 8. — Hull : The Charterhousey Chwrches.
97-
frame of carved oak.) Among the
j:4!a<e are some curious devices, such
as dd sailors may have delighted
m — a cnp with a floating ball: — a
nhrer milkmaid with her pail, given
by Sir Cecil Wray, 1726. On this
is mn inscription **to the glorious
and inomortal memory of King Wil-
liam and Queen Afary; "—on the
pail, ** Inborn to the Pretender and
an his adherents;" and on her ker-
chief, "no warming-pan." In the
mugewm are a model of Queen Anne's
yacht, a chair which belonged to Gapt.
Cook, and some Arctic curiosities.
Among numerous other hospitals
here may be mentioned that of the
CharUrhtnue (outside the ancient
walk, near the Hull Biver), for
28 poor men and women, founded
(together with a Carthusian monastery
for 13 monks) by Michael de la
Pole, Earl of Suffolk, 1384 (rebuilt of
brick, 1780). This great and power-
ful family sprang from a rich mer-
chant of Hull (by birth of Raven-
^ur), Wm. de la Pole, knighted
and created first mayor of Hull
by Edw. in. His descendants rose
in a short time to the highest ranks
of the nobility, became Earls and
Bakes of Suffolk, and furnished two
ministers and favourites toBichardH.
and Henry VI. After having flou-
rshed 120 years, and having con-
ferred great benefits on their native
town, uie family becMne extinct in
the reign of Henry Vlll., who caused
Edmund de k Pole, Earl of Suffolk,
to be beheaded after a 7 years' im-
prisonment in the Tower.
Near the anele at which the Junc-
tion and Old Docks meet, rises the
WiSberfCTce Monument (completed
1835), a Doric pillar of sandstone, 72
ft. high, surmounted by the statue of
WiUiam WHberforee, This eminent
philanthropist was bom, Aug. 24,
1759, in High Street (jieepo$t). In
1780 he was returned to Parliament
IS member for Hull.
[Yorkghire,^
Near this monument, and bordering
the Queen's Dock, is the New Dock
Office (archit. C. G. Wray), an ela-
borate structure of Renaissance type,
with 3 miniature domes of St. Pams.
It is much ornamented with sculp-
tured friezes, small figures of boys
with nets, ropes, &c., and above the
main entrance, Commerce, Pro-
sperity, and the Biver Humber,
The most important of the Hull
Churches is that of the ^Holy
Trinity in the market-place (where
is a gilt statue of Wimam Ul., by
Scheemaker), which will amply repay
a visit. This church was com-
menced in 1312 — Edw. H, who
was then at York, contributed
liberally to the work. It con*
sists of nave, choir, and transepts, of
which the nave alone was used for
congregational purposes until the
restoration (1873) of the choir. The
transepts and central tower are early
Dec. ; the choir, Dec. of later charac-
ter; and the nave, Perp. Much of
the choir is built of brick — an almost
unique instance of the employment of
that material in England at so early a
date. The restoration of this noble
church, under the care of Sir G. G.
Scott, was begun in 1860. The choir
and transepts have been recased,
the exterior brickwork cleared from
cement, and where new bricks were
wanted, they have been cast in direct
copy of the old. The windows have
been repaired and restored, and new
flat panelled roofs of oak have been
constructed for the choir and its aisles,
and the transepts. The stone floormg
is new. Under the central tower a
new vaulted ceiling of English oak,
gilt and coloured, has been raised,
strengthening the tower, which
showed a crack on its W. side, besides
adding much to the general e&eei.
In the transepts (the central portion)
remark the S. and N. windows, the
tracery of which ** is after geometrical
but before flowing. It is a fine
specimen."-—/. L, Petit Opening
98
BofOeS.SuU: Chmche».
from the S. transept is a sepulchral
eb^iel (now belonging to the Broad-
leys of Melton), restoxid by SirG. G.
Scott It contains a Dec. tomb, with
a vaulted canopy, of nearly the same
date as the Percy shrine at Beverley.
The ehoiry which is fine and large, is
of 5 bays. Its lofty arches and slender
piers, with very high bases, should be
noticed. The aisles terminate even
with tiie choir itself. This arrange-
ment, and the broad spacing of choir
and aisles, is a Yorkshire charac-
teristic, and was probably imitated
from the Minster. The windows of
both aisles and clerestory are Dec.;
and the form of the E. window is
imusuaL Some bad modem stained
glass remains here in spite of the
restoration. Under a canopied re-
cess in the S. aisles are the effigies
of a merchant (probably Robert of
Selby, the effigy has been assigned,
without reason, to Sir William de la
Pole) and wife, temp. Edw. m. Thev
have been cleared from the black
paint with which they were long
covered. The merchant holds a book
between his clasped hands. Some
monuments in the transept may be
noticed, chiefly for their bad taste.
There is a good example of 17th cent,
design in the S. transept, — a mont.
erected \>j the Trinity House to Thos.
Ferres (died 1681), who left the mass
of his property to the poor, in connec-
tion with the Trinity Guild. In the
ch. also is a mont. for the Rev. Joseph
Milner, author of a 'Histoiy of tne
Church.' who was vicar of this parish,
and died in 1797.
The Perp. Nave is fine and striking.
There is a lofty clerestory; and the
peculiar tracery of the windows should
oe noticed. The W. window of nine
lights has been filled with stained glass
by Bardmany the subjects referring to
the H. Trinity. The bowl of the/on<
IS, perhaps, earlier than its support
lliere is a good general eatamaX view
from the S.W. angle of the yard.
Xbe peculiar squared outline of the
W. end, tjia loft^ bnttronefl apd
pinnacles rising above the parapets,
which entirely conceal the roofe, arc
here well seen. The £. end is seen
from the market-place.
The poet Mason was bom at the
vicarage of Holy Trinity in 1725.
(On the S. side of H. Trin. Ch.
is the Grammar Schocli founded in
1486 by John Alcock, Bp. of Ely,
who was bom at Beverley. T^e
school was rebuilt in 1583, chiefly
by the aid of Wm. Gee, Aldennan of
Hull, whose initials and merchant's
mark are between the windows of
the lower story, and whose portrait is
in the schoolroom. Andrew Marvell,
father of thepoet, and Joseph Milner,
author of a Hist of the Church, were
masters of this school ; and among the
more eminent scholars have been
Marvell, the poet; Thomas Watson,
Bp. of St David's, Wm. Wilberforce,
Isaac Milner, Dean of Carlisle, and
Archdeacon Wrangham.)
8L Mary^s Church, in Lowgate,
was restored (and almost rebuilt) bv
Sir G. G. Scott in 1863. It is Perpl.
with the main arches almost tri-
angular, and with a large Perp. K.
window, of which the tracery de-
serves notice. There is a double
S. aisle. The modem gallery pro-
jects from the tower-arch, an ex-
cellent and picturesque arrangement.
In the N. aisle is a mural mont.,
with bust of Wm. Dobson (temp.
Chas. n.) : — " hujus empwii . . . praj-
fectus, puipurft, caeterisq. imperii in-
signibus oonatus." The organ, by
Schnetzler, is famed for its trumpet -
stop. The great E. window of this
ch. and many others, are filled with
stained gkss, by Clayton and BeH^
which is well worthy of notice. Much
silvery white and yellow glass is used,
in conformity with the date of tiie
ch. ; and St Mary*s may boast of
possessing some of the very finest
modem stained glass in this country.
The general effect of the interior is
very striking. The ^jcfetiflg^wljing
Boulc 3.—HuU: Town Hcdl, High Street.
99
is only the choir of the original ch.,
of wiuch the W. end is sua to have
fallen in 1518, and the nave and
steeple to have been palled down bj
Older of Henry YHI. It was of this
church that Andrew MarveU^s father
was minister.
(Opposite St Mary's Gh. was the
Manor Soute, built in 1387 by Sir
Michael de la Pole, and tenanted by
Henry VIQ., on his visit to Hvdl in
1540. There are no remains.)
Of other churches in Hull, the only
one that claims notice is AU Saints,
in the Beverley Boad (G. E. Street,
aichit), consecrated in 1869. This
ch. is not large, but the desifi;n and
details are especially good. U is of
red brick with stone dressings.
(In Osborne St. is the Lutheran
chapel of St Nicolai, built for the use
of l)anish residents and seamen, and
consecrated by Archdeacon Bothe of
Copenhagen in 1871.)
The Towp-haU (opened in Janu-
ary, 1866— architect, Cnthbert Brod-
rick, who also designed the Town-
faoall of Leeds) is no doubt the finest
modem bnildmg in Hull. The style
is Italian, with a clock-tower or
campanile. The railings of the
exterior balconies are ^t, adding
much to the effect produced by the
varied colour of tne stone. On
the staircase is a niche, with a statue
of Edw. I. (Earls, Sculptor^ founder
of the town. There are also statues
of Andrew Marvel (see ante) and of
Sir Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk,
1st Mayor of HuU, 1376, d 1389.
These are by Keyvwrth, of Hull. On
the ground-floor are sessions and
eoanty coorts, offices of the corporation,
and those of various public bodies con-
nected with HulL The cost of the
building was 28,000Z.
Eigh Street, tl^e most important
fbetf^ m msmt Itull^ wm ^ nar-
row and inconvenient lane, follows
the rt. bank of the Hull ; and
openings pass from it to the staiths
or landmg-places on the river. Here
were the houses of the great Hidl
merchants. About halfway down
the street (1. in descending) is
WHberforce House or Buildings, in
which Wm. Wilberforce was bom in
1759. The house is of brick with
stone dressings. In it Charles L
lodged when he visited Hull in
1639. It then belonged to Sir John
Lister. On the rt side of the street
is the George Yard, connecting High
St and Liowgate, with some 15th
cent portions. It seems to have
been connected with a large ancient
hostelry. Another ancient Imi was
the King's Head, also in High Street,
and apparently of the end of the
14th cent. It is of framed oak.
Taylor, the Water Poet, was enter-
tained here in 1662.
In the newer part of Hull, N. of
the Bocks, the chief place to be
visited is the BoyaX Institution in
Albion Street The building, which
is ckssical and good, was opened in
1854 (archit Cutiibert Brodrick), and
contains under the same roof the Hull
Subscription Library and the Museum
of the Literary and Philosophical
Society. The library contains about
40,000 vols., and there is a good
reading - room, to which strang^ers
are admitted on the introduction
of a member. A member's order
is also required for admission to
the Museum, which is interesting.
Among the curiosities worth noticing
are the head and skeleton of a whale,
showing well the arrangement of
the fringe pendent from uie roof of
the mouth, caHed whalebone — the
whale was washed ashore at the mouth
of the Humber, in 1835 ;-— some fossil
bones from Kirkdale; elephants^
grinders, and other bones, found near
the coast of Holdemess; a joiper's
bag filled with tools, dredged up from
the river-bed, and petride4 by somQ
h2
100
Boute S.'-Hull: Wallsy History.
natural process beneath the water;
a polar hare and fox, and an Esqui-
maux canoe from the North Pole,
presented by Sir John Ross, to-
gether with a pair of boots made
and worn by himself on his last
expedition; the jack-boots worn bj
Sir Edward Vamey, the royal stand-
ard-bearer at the battle of Edgehill,
where he was killed; and (by far
the most interesting of the antiqui-
ties) a group of ngures carved in
wood, found in 1^6 at Roos, in
Holdemess, in a bed of blue clay,
which may have been at one time
the bed of a creek or haven con-
nected with the Humber. The group
consists of 8 hmiian figures, the feet
of which are inserted in the back
of a serpent, which is bent, in
the form of a boat. The eyes of the
serpent and of the human figures
are of small pieces of quartz. Each
figure is armed with a club, and
carries two round shields. The date
and meaning of this curious relic are
uncertain; but it is not impossibly
connected, as has generally been sup-
posed, with the "dragons" or long
ships of the Northmen, frequent
visitors to the Humber. Many other
figures were found at the same time,
but are said to have been too de-
cayed for removal. Here is also a
collection of fiint implements and
bronze weapons from tne wolds, and
some good examples of Arctic fauna,
birds and aninuus, collected by Sir
John Ross. The skeletons of the
Finner whale (Balxnoptera Sthbal-
dii), of the tunny, and of Wallace,
the famous lion, are worth attention.
The first walls of Hull were ap-
parently of brick, and were entirely
on the L bank of the Hull. (In
1321 Wm. de la Pole had a brick-
yard outside the N. gate.) FoHifi-
cations on the rt. bai^ were begun
by Henry VIH. in 1529, and some
additions were made in the reign of
Charles H. All, however, have now
r.ompletely disappeared. The site of
the ancient citadel was between the
Hull and the Victoria Dock.
[HuU played a conspicuous part in
the eventful history of the civil wars.
When the breach between CJharles I.
and his Parliament left no alternative
but a recourse to arms, the king, find-
ing that his opponents had got pos-
session of his chief arsenal, the Tower
of London, endeavoured to make him-
self master of Hull : which, besides its
importance as a fortress and seaport,
open on the side of Holland, whence
his supplies came, also contained a
store ot arms and ammunition, pro-
vided and purchased by himself. With
this view, sending on the prince, he
marched from York with a small
force, inadequate to surprise or over-
awe the town ; but (Charles seems to
have relied on the good disposition of
the governor of Hull, Sir John Hotham.
He, however, either from vacillation,
treachery, or intimidated by the towns-
people, closed the gates, raised the
drawbridges in the King's face, and
refused him admittance: protesting
at the same time on his knees, from
the walls, his loyalty to Charles
(AprU 23, 1642). This proceeding
of the governor of Hull may be
regarded as the first act of hostility
in the civil wars. He was pro-
claimed traitor to his face by the
king. Shortly afterwards, however,
Hotham became aware of, and con-
cealed, a plot for giving up the
town to the king ; for which he and
his son were removed to London by
the Parliament and there beheaded.
Before this came to pass, the king,
irritated by his failure, collected a
force of 3000 men from York, and
laid siege to Hull. He was again
baffled, by the cutting of the banks,
which laid the country 2 m. round
the town imder water. Within 2
months after the removal of Hotham
(Sept. 1G43), another and more for-
midable armament, under the Mar-
quis of Newcastle, Uid siege to the
town, throwing up numerous batteries
Boule 3. — HuU: History, the Humber.
101
against it ; from one of which red-hot
shot were discharged. If the lusanlts
were plied vigorously, the defence was
not less obstinate, and was far more
skilf ally carried on by the new gover-
nor, Jlord Fairfax: he repulsed all
attacks, directed successful sorties,
and drove the Boyalists from most of
their batteries, by again cutting the
dykes on the Hull and Humber, and
laying the country under water. In
addition to this, the fleet of the Par-
liament, being masters of the Humber,
threw in constant supplies, so that
Newcastle, finding little hope of suc-
cess, raised the siege, which had lasted
six weeks, leaving the townspeople im-
poverished by mUitarv exactions, their
town damaged, and t^eir trade ruined.
By a more skilfully contrived and
more ably executed piece of treachery
than that of the Hothams, the for-
tress was seized (1688) bv some of
the Protestant officers of Barnes H.,
belonging to the garrison, and de-
livered over to William of Orange, in
spite of James's precautions ; who, ex-
Mcting that William would land here,
nad ganisoned Hull with well-afifected
troops, officered for the most part by
Roman Catholics, under a governor
(Lord Lanedale) appointed for the
occasion. These ofncers, with the
governor, were secured in their quar-
ters and at their posts by the mal-
contents, who had concerted mea-
sures with the magistrates of Hull,
and who, as soon as they were sure
of the citadel and town, set their
prisoneTS at liberty.]
The estuary of the Humber, on
which Hull stands, is formed by the
union of the Ouse and the Trent, at
Flaxfleet, about 2Q m. above Hull.
The etymology is quite uncertain.
The name of the Italian river Umbro
may possibly be cognate. The local
tradition assigned it to a certain King
Homber —
••—for my princely name,
From Hamber, King of Huns, as anciently It
So sUll I ^kk t6 him
What flood comes to the deep
Than Humber that Is heard more horribly to
roar? [shore
For when my Higre comes, I make my either
Even tremble with the sound that 1 a&r do
send."
Dbattox, Petjfofbion,
And so Milton —
-Or Humber loud, that keeps the Scythian's
name.**
The traditional BLing, Humber, is
said to have been drowned in the
estuary, and some earthworks called
the Castles, in the Barrow maishes
on the Lincolnshire shore, are known
as "Humberts work." The "bore"
or "Higre" (the name is that of
the Northern sea-god (Egir) — the
tidal wave that rushes up the Hum-
ber in the same way as it occurs
in the Severn — gives the epithet
"loud."
"Trent draws from the heart of
Enghind the drainage of 4500 square
miles; Ouse collects from Yorl^hire
alone supplies from 4100 square miles.
Ouse brings more water, because it
is fed by higher mountains and
more rainy coimtries." — Phillips. By
these rivers an immense amoimt of
raw and manufactured produce from
the most wealthy and industrious
cotmties of England — ^Yorkshire, Not-
tinghamshire, and part of Lancashire
— is conveyed to tne sea. It is not
surprising, therefore, that Hull, most
advantageously situated on the re-
cipient of these great waterways,
should maintain an extensive and
flourishing commerce. Besides the
vast amount of goods poured into
this port by sea, it is calculated that
it receives the value of 5 millions
sterling annually from the W. Biding
alone.
The Humber is between 2 and 3 m.
broad at Hull; — ^the opposite shore
of Lincolnshire appearing as a broad
grey streak beyond it.
An ironclad lies in the Hiunber,
off Hull, as part of the new system
102
Boute 4. — EnoUingley io Ooole.
of defence. There is also a new fort
at Paul (on the river, below the town),
and one on the opposite coast, thus
eommandinff the ascent of the Hnm-
ber. The Major of Hull, since 1445,
has been " Admiral of the Humber,"
with jurisdiction as far as the montiii
of the estuary.
Excursions may be made from Hull
to Beverley (Rte. 8), 20 minutes bv
rlv. — where the Minster and St. Mary^s
Ch. are the objects of attraction
{Cottingham Ch., Bte. 8, should be
seen on the way); to BurUm Con-
stable by the rly. to Hornsea (Bte. 7),
which place may also be visited ; and
to all the places mentioned in the
the following route, the Churches
of Hedan and PairingUm being of
especial interest
ROUTE 4.
KNOTTINQLEY TOOOOLE, BY SNAITH.
{Lancaskire and YorliskireBaUtoay,)
[16 m. 6 trainB daily in 30 mio. It rans
from Knott ingle J Junction (Rte. 2) to Goole,
a little above the point at which the Oneo
and Trent unite to form the Hnmber. The
line runs somewhat north of the Knottlngley
and Ooole Oinal (from the Aire to the Otue),
which It crosees soon after leaving Knot-
tlngley. The single point of interest on this
line is the floe ch. of Snaitb.]
At WhiOey Bridge (Stat.) is a good
modem ch. (arch. Wilson of Bath).
At HensaUj the next stoHon, is one of
8 churches built at the cost of Lord
Downe (arch. Butterfield). All are
of brick, with stone dressings, imusual
and picturesque in design. The 2
others are at Pollington and Cowick.
(The £. £. tower of KeUingtoti is
seen N. before reaching HensaU.)
Snaith Stat. O'Esneid'* in Domes-
day; the word (A.-S.) signifies a
piece "cut off," KembU), is a small
decaying town, with many signs
of past wealth and importance.
Its population has declined from
4196 in 1871 to 3970 in 1881. The
manor was long part of the Duchy of
Lancaster. The parish was a " pecu-
liar"— out of episcopal jurisdiction;
and the church was appropriated,
about 1100, by Gerard, Archbishop
of York, to the Abbey of Selby.
Snaith Church, which well deserves
a visit, is chiefly E. £. and Perp.
The Western Tower is E. E. as high
as the battlements and pinnacles,
which date about 1598. It is in 4
sta^, receding slightly, with a fine
E. E. doorway, of 4 orders, in the
lowest stage;' an E. E. window
above it ; and 3 lancets in each face
immediately under the battlement.
Between tne nave and chancel is a
pierced gable for the "sancte" bell.
The nave (except the westernmost
bay, which is £. E.) is Perp., with a
clerestory of triple lights ; the chancel
retains E. E. and I^. portions, but
has been much altered m the Perp.
period. The E. window is "Dec..
Bemark the junction of the £. E.
with the Perp. work at the W. end
of the nave. The tower was originally
open to the nave, and had chapels oii
either side, open to the nave aisles.
The chapel on the N. side served as
the consistory court of the ^ peculiar.^
Traces of colour (red lines) remain on
the £. E. arch £. of this chapel. In
the easternmost bay of the S. aisle is
a niche with " Sea Sitha ** over it It
was no doubt once filled by a figure
of St. Osyth (St. Sythe). Beyond is
a projecting turret, carrying the rood-
loft stair. On the S. side is the
Bottte 4:.—Snaith : Dutch Btver.
lOd
Dawnay Chapel, with some frag-
menis of stained glass exhihiting the
Dawnay arms and qnarterings in its E.
window. (The 3 rings in the Dawnaj
shield ' represent a ring given hj
fiichard Coear de Lion to Sir William
Dawnay, in 1193. It is of silrer, set
with a toad-stone, and still remains in
the possession of Lord Downe, the
representative of the Dawnays.) Of
the 2 altar-tomhfi, the westernmost is
that of Balph Aclomne, whose wife
was Blargaret Dawnay (d. 1436) ; the
ijther is that of Sir John Dawnay (d.
1493). The surcoat, spur, and gaunt-
let, which hang ahove, are those of
Sir Thomas Dawnay (d. 1642). On
the N. side is the Stapleton Chapel
(Lord Beaumont of Caneton), with a
nionnment of Lady Elizabeth Staple-
ton (d. 1683).
At the N.W. angle of the chancel
L^ a iine life-like statue (entirely out
uf pkice) of Lord Downe (d. 1832)—
the last Baron Dawnay— by Chantrep.
Within the altar-rails is the matrix
of a brass, representing a mitred
abbot — ^no doubt an ab^t of Selby
who was buried here.
A ceU for 2 monks (from Selby)
was attached to this ch. ; and there
are some traces of conventual build-
ings adjoining the ch.-yd. N. In
a field called the " Priory Garth *' a
iikeleton of unusual size (Roman?)
was f oimd in 1853. Tiles, were laid
ridgewise above it.
2 m. N. of Snaith is CarlUm Ball
(Lord Beaumont). A good new ch..
Dec in character (Atkinson, arch.),
was c<mBecnted here in Dec. 1863.
This ch., of which the interior
littings are very elaborate, was re-
bmit at the cost of Lady Beaumont
un the site of the old one, pulled
down in 1861.
I m. S.E. of Snaith is Cowick SaU
CLcftd Downe, but uninhabited: the
family pictures, &c., have been re-
mored to Baldersby). In the park
are some remauis of a hunting-tower
built here by John of Oaunt
Beyond the next $UU, (BawcUffe)
the line runs parallel for some
distance with the Ooole Canal. S.
of this is the so-called Dutch Biver^
wide and deep channel, cut by
Cornelius Yermuyden about 1630.
After Veimuyden had proceeded far
with the drainage of Hatfield Chase
(see Bte. 3 for a notice of Vermuyden
and his undertaking), which he com-
menced in 1626, it was found that
the blocking out of the Don from
the levels which it used to cover
rendered the northern channel of the
river Twhich joined the Aire near
Snaith; insufficient for the discharge
of its waters. Floodings of the lands
about Fishlake, Sykehouse, and
Snaith took place; and the people,
already indignant with ^e Flemish
adventurers, whom they called
** foreigners and marauders," broke
into open riot. After much difficulty
and delay, Yermuyden succeeded in
cutting the '* Dutch Biver,*' from a
point near the junction of the Went '
with the Don, to Goole ; and the
floods were effectually stopped. The
old channel of the river is yet trace-
able, though much filled up.
For Goole, see Bte. 3.
104
Boute h.—Milford to EuU.
ROUTE 6.
MILFORD JUNCTION TO HULL. BT
SELBY.
{North • Eastern BatUoay, Leeds,
8elby, and EuU Branch.)
[For the line from London to HUford
Junction see Btes. 1 and 2. The chief
points of interest between Milford and Hull
are the churchea of Selby, Mtmingbarough,
and JEToiMlen.]
Si m. HambUUm Stat, There is
nothing to attract the tourist until
he readies
8| m. Selby, (This place and its
immediate neighbourhood are fully
described in Rte. 1.)
9| m. Cliffe Stat, the tall spire of
the Church of Heminghorough (dis-
tant 1| m. S.£.) is conspicuous. This
church will repay the archaeologist
far his ^isit.
The royal manor of Heming-
borough, with the town and church,
were granted by the Conqueror to
Walchere, Bp. of Durham, wiio in his
turn made over the chiut^ to the
prior and convent of St. Cuthbert's,
Durham. In 1426 the prior and
convent, by licence from Henir VI.,
erected it into a collegiate church,
with a provost, 3 prebendaries, 6
^cars, and 6 clerks. It was dissolved,
with other collegiate churches, temp.
Edw. VI.
The existing building is a large
cross-church, with central tower,
nave, chancel (with a chantiy or
second chancel opening from it S.),
and transept. It is of various dates,
Norman, E. E., and Perp., the latter
portions consisting of alterations and
additions, made apparently when
the church became collegiate. The
two western arches of the nave are
Trans.-Norm., with remarkable outer
mouldings, terminating in snakes'
heads. The lofty tower arches are
E.B. The transepts, originally E.E.,
were much altwed in the Perp.
period, when very fine windows were
inserted, S. and N. East of the N.
transept is a Perp. chantry (called St.
Nicholas's or Babthorpe's chanty,
from a family long resident here), in
which is a "cadaver** monument.
The stone altar remains here, and
what is apparently a credence-shelf,
adjoining. In the S. transept some
of the E. E. windows remain. The
chantry opening from it is Perp. ;
and is separated from the actual
chancel by four bays of four-cen-
tred arches, with clustered piers
and foliaged capitals. The font is
Norman. The church retains some
ancient woodwork, which is well
wortii notice. There is some screen-
work in the choir; and the original
stalls remain, with misereres, some
of whidi are E. E., and of great in-
terest, since they are of the same
date as the E. E. misereres in Exeter
Cathedral, usually considered the
earliest in the kingdom. A door in
the S. aisle of the nave (Dec) should
also be noticed, with its massive
oaken bar. There is some fine carved
wood also in tiie N. aisle. No
brasses or monuments of interest
remain, unless the visitor can find
attraction in some curious rhymes
placed against a seat on the N. side of
the nave. On the exierior the chancel
Boute 5. — Wressel CastV&—Howden : Church,
105
buttresses (Peip.)* ^i^^ monster gur
gojles and rico pinnacles, should be
noticed. Over the S. door of the
chancel is a niche for a figure of
the Virgin (to whom the church was
ded.), with an inscription (scarcelj
legible): "Ave gratia plena, Dfis
tecum. Ecce ancilla mi." The
tower and spire are apparently E. E. ;
the latter is of considerable height,
and is a landmark over all this flat
country.
The church stands on the rt. bank
of an old channel of the Ouse (long
smce deserted by the rirer), and is
tniditionallj said to occupy the site
of a Boman fort. The stone at the
W. end and in part of the N. side
differs from the rest, and is said to
have been taken from the Boman
building. Of this, however, there
is no certun evidence.
'* Miss Graham, of Woodal, in this
parish, preserves the right arm of the
famous Marquis of Montrose, cut off
below the elbow ; and the sword
wherewith he wrote on Leith sands." —
Gough's Camden (1789).
[2 m. S.W. of Hemingborough,
on the rt bank of the Ouse (from
which it is distant } m.), is the site of
Drax Priory, a house of Augustinian
canons, founded by William Paganel
temp. Hen. 11. (1178). At the Dis-
solution it was valued at 1212. ann.
rentaL There are no remains.]
The rly. is carried over the river
Derwent by an iron bridge, a short
distance W. of
12| m. WresHi Stat.
Rt. the ruins of Wre^d Castle,
kmg a residence of the Earls of
Northumberland, are visible, rising
on a alight eminence on the £. bai£
of the Derwent (the navigation of
which it must have commanded),
about a mile above its confluence
with the Ouse. The castle was
founded by Thomas Percy, Earl of
Worcester (uncle of Hotspur— the
Worcester of Shakspeare's 'Henry
IV,' Pt. I.), who was beheaded
after the battle of Shrewsbury,
1403 ; and in 1650 the Parliament
demolished 3 sides of it; although
its owner, Algernon Percy, Earl of
Northumberland, had espoused theu*
cause. The 4th side was injured by
fire in 1796, and was reduced to
mere naked wdls. This, however,
is worth notice. There are square
towers at the angles: and in the
central portion was the haU, with
kitchens under it. Leland, writing
in the reign of Henry VHI., styles
Wressel one of the finest houses N.
of Trent; and especially dwells on
the delights of a study called "Para-
dise," in one of the towers. The state
here kept up by the Percys was little
less than regal,' as appears from their
"Household Book." In the enume-
ration of clerks, grooms, yeomen,
officers, and gentlemen, not less than
229 persons are stated to have been
employed about the house and per-
son of the lords of Wressel. (For a
general notice of the Percys, as con-
nected with Yorkshire, see Introd.)
The tower of Howden Church is
for some time visible rt. as we ap-
proach
15} m. Howden Stat, (from which
the town is distant 1 } m. An omnibus
meets the trains). Inns : Half-moon,
Wellington, Bowman's. Pop. 5800.
The *Church of St, Cuthbert at
Howden (the single object of interest
in the place; it belonged, from the
Conquest, to the Bps. of Durham, —
the * shire ' of Howden was given by
the Conqueror to Bp. William of St.
Carilef, — and was made coUegiate in
the reign of Hen. III.) is verv in-
teresting and important, and snould
on no account oe missed by the
ecclesiologist. The plan embraces
nave, transepts with eastern chan-
tries, central tower, choir (of the
same length as the nave), and
106
BaiUe 6. — Howden Church.
chapter-house on the S. side. The
choir and chapter-house are, how-
ever, in ruin; and the nave alone
serves as the parish church. The
choir fell in 1696 ; but it had been
graduallj decaying since the dis-
solution of the collegiate church
(when the revenues were alienated
which should have kept it in repair),
and had become altogether unsafe
in 1630, when, says Qeniy " the inner
part was miserablj rent to pieces,
and the comelj, tuneful, and melo-
dious organ was pulled down."
The greater portion of the bmlding
is Dec., but ot different dates, and
offering some peculiarities. The
history seems to be as follows. Be-
fore and perhaps for a short time
after the endowment of the collegiate
establishment, the church consisted
of a nave with lusles, but no clere-
story, a low phiin central tower,
transepts with eastern aisles or
chapels, and a chancel, without
aisles. Except the chancel, all the
several ^rts of this church still
exist The transepts show decided
Earlv Eng. work. Then follow (in
date; the arcades of tiie nave, then
the tower piers and arches, and the
lower stage of the tower itself.
After the church became collegiate
it was apparently thought that an
edifice of greater size and dignity
would be appropriate, and a larger
choir — that now in ruins — was
erected. In order to bring the rest
of the building into harmony with
this, first the nave clerestory was
added, and the west front followed.
The nave aisles also were increased
in height, and the south porch is
of this time. Finally Bp. Skirkw
built the chapter-house, circa 1390;
and the central stage of the tower
was built from funds left by his will
for the purpose. The topmost stage
is of still later date.
The *W€$t front is a very beautiful
composition, and has been pronounced
nearly unique. It is adapted to a
fore, in spite of its geometrical cha-
racter, of the same date as the
clerestory added to the old nave
toward the middle of the 14th cent.
The central window is of Geom. cha-
racter, and the spaces between it and
the buttresses are delicately panelled.
Between the W. front and the S.
porch is a Perp. building, now used
as a school. The 8, porch, of 2 bays,
with a parvise over it, contains a
head supposed to be that of Edw. 11.,
and thus marking its date. This
porch and the aisle windows are
Dec. They belong to the time when
the aisles were raised : and a flowing
line in the west windows is an Indi-
cation of lateness of style.
The fine and lofty natm arcaden
belong to the earlier period of the
church, and are earliest Dec. There
are small heads and grotesques,
much shattered, at the intersections.
The clerestory is a later addition —
very light and elegant, and not in-
tended to bear a vault. It retains
so much of (}eom. character as to
keep it in harmony with the rest of
the church.
Two windows in the N. aisle re-
tain some portions of ancient glass.
The rest were filled with very bad
modem j^lass about 1840. The glass
in the W. window, representing the
Nativity, is by Capronnier of Brus-
sels, and was erected in 1863 as a
memorial for members of the Schol-
field family of Sand Hall. The glass
is rich in colour, but has the saine
faults as that by the same artist in
the par. ch. of Doncaster (Rte. 1).
The nave was new-roofed and seated
in 1850.
The lofty piers and arches of the
central tower are somewhat later in
date than the arcades of the nave.
The transepts retain Earl^ Eng. por-
tions, the doors, the wmdows are
pure Greom., and among Uie earliest
specimens of bar tracery. The rood-
screen, now the reredos, is probably
part of Bp. Skirlaw's work ; and the
nave with a dereitoiy, and is there- 1 figures in the niches were removed
Boute 6. — Hawden Church, Manor House.
107
here from the east front of the choir.
The stained window is bv WaUea.
All the details deserve attention.
Close to the portal which f onnerly
opened to the S. aisle is an altar-tomb
(16th cent) with heraldic shields,
among which occurs that of Salt-
maishe. The chantry opening from
the adjoining transept belonged to
the Saltmaishe f amilj, and contains a
cross-legged effigj (tem^. £dw. I.)
with their arms on the shield ; and a
blight and ladj, t«mp. Hen. III. On
the knight's shield are the arms of
Methnen. On the floor is an incised
slab, with the figure of a knight in
plate-annour.
The roofless and shattered choir,
weather-worn as it is, retains enough
of its detail to show how fine it mi^
have originaUj been. It is Dec.
(riic 1300 ? at anj rate it dates from
the beginning of the 14th cent.). On
the S. side is the Chapter-House, the
work of Bp. Skirlaw. This is sin-
gularly picturesc[ue^ with short ferns
and grasses on its ruined walls, and
a large elder-tree nearly filling the
opening of one of its windows. The
design is so graceful, and the re-
maining detaib so excellent, as to
make it very desirable that some
steps should be taken to preserve
this bnilding from further injuir,
althoogb this would be difficult with-
out destroying the picturesque cha-
racter which it displays at present.
The design is octagonal, with a lofty
Perp. window in each bay. Below
each window are four canopied seats
tit niches, the backs of which are
richly lined with bUnk quatrefoil
tracery. The portal opening to the
choir should be especially noticed.
The lower part of the window above
it retains the brackets and rich ca-
nopies of six figures, which have
dinppeared. A chamber existed over
the vestibule of the chapter-house,
between the window and the choir-
aisle.
The E. end of the choir, and the
chapter-house itself, should be ex-
amined from without. The compo-
sition of the former is especially fine
and is a good example of the Dec.
period.
The Tower, 130 ft. high, is Tabove
the roof) Perp., the work oi Bp.
Skirlaw, who left 40L by his will
(dated 1403) toward its completion.
It is one of the finest in Yorkshire;
and there is a wide view over all
this level district from its summit.
The bishop is said to have made this
bell-tower of a great size T" summ»-
magnitudinis **), that it might afford
a place of refuge to the people in the
event of a great inundation. The
uppermost stage of this tower is of
much later date than Bp. Skirlaw*s
episcopate.
The ancient Mmwr Mouse (adjoin-
ing the church, E.) was rebuilt by
Bp. Skirlaw. There had been such
a * palace ' here from an early period.
Hugh Pudsey, Bp. of Durham, died
here in 1195 ; Bp. Walter of Kirkhani
in 1260; and Bp. Skirlaw, the re-
builder, in 1405. Bp. Longley, Skir-
law s successor, put up the great
stone gates which still remain. The
palace was large and built round an
open court, but little now remains.
One bay of a vaulted substructure
serves as a dairy, and has Bp. Skir-
law's arms upon it; and an ancient
fruit-house stands above a little
bridge crossing a moat, which bounds
the orchard. It should here be said
that many parts of the church and of
the ruins form admirable subjects
for the pencil. The church should
by all means be viewed from the
garden of the old hall. (A valuable
memoir on *Howden Ch. by the Rev.
J. L. Petit will be found in the 25th
vol. of the Archnol. Journal. The
Bp.'s palace has been described by
Canon Raine in the Trans, of the
Yorksh. Archil Soc. 1866.)
Two very different celebrities con-
fer distinction on Howden- Roger
of Hoveden (whose name shpuld pro-
108
Batde 6. — Hull to Hornsea.
perly be written Houeden) was one
of the early rectors, and lived bejond
1204. His annals, which are of great
value, begin in 731, and are con-
tinued to the third year of King
John. They were first published in
Savile's * Sc. Rer. Anglic' 1595, and
afterwards at Frankfort, 1601. They
are now included in the Rolls series.
A statue of Roger of Howden has
been placed in front of the new
market ball.
Baron Ward, the well-known
minister of the Duke of Parma,
was bom here in 1810, and, after
working for some time as a stable-
boy in Howden, went to London,
where he had the good luck to come
to the Duke's assistance after a fall
from his horse in Rotten Row. Ilie
Duke carried him back to Lucca as
his groom. Ward at once reduced
the ducal stable expenses, and made
the stud the envy of all Italy. He
soon rose to a higher position, and
became the Minister and confiden-
tial friend of his master, with whom
he escaped in 1848 to Dresden, and
for whom he succeeded in recover-
ing Parma and Piacenza. Ward was
on one occasion sent as an envoy
to Vienna, where he delighted his
brother diplomatists by supplying
them with hams from Yorkshire.
*'He was," said Lord Pabnerston,
" one of the most remarkable men I
ever met with."
Howden is celebrated for its harae
fair, said to be the largest in the
world. It begins every year on the
25th of September, and lasts 14 days.
The fenny country around Howden,
extending to the Ouse and Humber,
and formerly called the *Lowths' or
low country, as distinguished from
the wolds, remained till the end of
the last century an unhealthy and
almost- unprofitable maish ; but since
the drainage of Bishop's Soil and
Walling Fen, the district has become
highly cultivated and is eminently
fertile. Yet even in early times it
was studded over with the seats of
numerous ancient families, many of
which are either ruined or converted
into farmhouses.
2 m. S.W. of Howden is Booth
Ferry (Jnn), over the Ouse, leading
to Goole and Snaith. (Rte. 4.)
17i m. Eaatrington Stat
193 m. Staddleihorpe Stat
Here the railway joins that from
Goole and Doncaster, and the further
route to
Hull 2'ermtntM is the same as in
Rte. 3.
ROUTE 6.
HULL, BT HEDON AND PATRINGTON.
TO WITHERNSEA. (SPURN HEAOO
—THE HOLDERNESS COAST TO
HORNSEA.
[fluJt and Wilhemiea Railway (Pantf^on
St. SUt.). 6 traius daily, in 40 mln. to 1 hr.
Tbe district through which thc% tourist pasaeo
is very level and unpicturt'sque ; but the
churches of Hedon and PatrlDgton wUi
amply repay a visit.]
Leaving the Paragon Stat, at Hull,
the rly. winds round the town, pass-
ing vtations at the Cemetery Gates
(the general cemetery, 1., pleasantly
laid out, was opened in 1847) at
Stepney (dose to Pearton Park, a
public park given to the town of
BatUe 6. — Hedon : Church.
109
Hall by the then mayor, Z. C. Pear-
son, Esq., in 1860), Sculcoates (where
the muddy Hull river is crossed),
Wilmington Junct. Stat, ^here
the riy. to Hornsea breaks off, 1.),
and Souiheoate* (whence there is
a connection with the Victoria
Stat). So far the region passed
through is one of factories, cement
works, and dismal drains. We now
enter the " seignor^ " of Hol4emess,
rich in grain and m families of ex-
treme antiquity. (For a general
description see Rte. 7.) There is
nothing to delay us at
2} m. Marfleet, where the church
dates from 1793; and we speedily
reach
5} m. Hedon Stat. (The ch. is seen
rt The tower of PresUm Ch. (see post)
U seen 1 m. 1.) This is now a decayed
town (Pop. 2030), consisting, for the
iDOst part, of one long street, with the
Doble church of St. Augustine at the
bead of it. Hedon is now 2 m. from
the Hmnber; but a creek, which is
now meadow-land, once served as its
haven, and before the rise of Hull it
was a place of considerable import-
ance. ''Treuth is," says Leland
(temp. Hen. Vm.), "that when Hull
began to flourish, Hedon decaied.
.... The town hath yet great privi-
leges, with a mair and bailives : but
wher it had in Edward the 3 dayes
many good shippes and riche mar-
ehaimtes, now there be but a few botes
and no marchauntes of any estima-
tion.'* The first charter was granted
by Edw. in., and Hedon sent mem-
ben to Parliament until it was dis-
fnmchised under the Reform Bill.
The sole relic of the former im-
portance of Hedon is the Church
(ded. to St. Augustine), known as
the ** King oi Holdemess,*' as that of
Patrington (see post) is the " Queen."
It consists of nave and aisles, chan-
cel, transepts, and central tower.
The South Transept has been re-
stored under the direction of Mr. G.
£. Street. For what else has been
done a local builder is responsible;
and under the circumstances it is
satisfactory to be assured that no
funds are forthcoming for "restora-
tion." The choir and transepts are
E. E., the nave Dec. (geometrical),
and the central tower Ferp. Perp.
windows have also been inserted in
different parts of the ch. The church
of Patrington is throughout Dec. (cur-
vilinear) ; the Dec. portion of Hedon
is of earlier character (geometrical).
The ch. is entered through the
transej^t. The N. transept retains
its original character more com-
pletely than the S. (restored). Both
nave had eastern aisles, which have
disappeared, the piers and arches re-
mainmg built up in the wall. A tri-
forium, serving also as a clerestory,
vrith lancets at the back, runs round
both transepts, and was approached
by staircases in the angles. In the S.
transept it had been removed to make
room for a large Perp. S. window.
This has been replaced by two tiers
of triplets, and a rose window above,
from the designs of Street. The roof
also is new. In the N, Trans, are 3
tiers of triplets, with enriched crosses
in the spandrels of the lowest. (Re-
mark a very graceful Dec. niche, with
scidptured foliage at the back, in-
serted in the E. wall, N. of the walled-
up arches.) The S. transept is prob-
ably somewhat earlier than the N.
trans, and the choir. The pieis and
arches supporting the tower are Perp.
The dioir is of the same character
and time (E. E.) as the transept with
a similar triforium, which was con-
tinued round the £. end before the
insertion of the existing Perp. window
of 5 lights. The sedilia, and the door
now opening into the vestiy, should
be noticed. On the same (the S.)
side are 2 arches, how walled up,
which were originally open to the so-
called Chantiy of St. Mary (the Lady
Chapel ?\ some portions of which are
seen within the vestiy. Arches (now
110
BofUe 6. — Hedon — PreUon Church.
walled up) opened on either side to
the transept aisles. The nave is
throughout Dec. (circ. 1310?), al-
thon^ traces of the E. E. nave, which
was removed when that which now
exists was hnilt, may be seen at the
E. end of both nave-aisles. The piers
of the nave are clustered, with plain
caps, and on a small scale recall those
of Exeter cathedral. The clerestory-
windows are of 2 lights, with a
quatrefoil in the tympanum. The
aisle-windows have rich geometrical
tracery, with the exception of those
in the westernmost bays, the tracery
of which is flowing and of later date.
In the second bay from the W. in
each aisle is a doorway, above which
is a small lozenge-shaped window with
4 quatrefoils, — somewhat resembling
one at the W. end of St. Hilda^
Abbey at Whitby. A large Peip.
window has been inserted at the W.
end of the nave. In restoring this
part of the church the pews and gal-
leries have been swept away, and
plain open roofs placed above nave
and aisles. (Stone brackets for
springers of the old roof remain in
the aisle walls.) The flooring of the
nave has been brought to its original
level, and the bases of the piera
exposed. The font (of granite) is
Dec., and deserves notice. At the
end of the S. aisle are some monu-
ments— an early, much shattered
effigy, a slab with richly floriated
cross, and a stone coffin — brought
here from different parts of the
church.
The great western portal, and the
aisle portals, N. and S., should be
examined on the exterior. The very i
graceful Perp. tower, with its 3-light
windows and openwork parapet, is
129 ft. in height to the top of the
pinnacles. The transept fronts should
especiidly be noticed (that N. is the
better). The foiled ornaments in the
spandrels both there and in the win-
dows N. of the choir, sngge^ Bever-
ley-/ and one oyfiital ait tiie N. side
of the choir ^within) has the 2 ani-
mals' heads joining in the centre,
characteristic of Beverley. The £.
Eng. church here was probably
erected at the same thne, and by the
same builders.
Hedon still possesses a mayor ; and
some ancient corporation plate is in
his keeping.
In Mr. Watsons garden is an
ancient cross, removed in 1818 to
Burton Constable from Eilnsea (see
poet), where it was in danger of being
destroyed by the sea. (l^e ch.-yard
in which it stood was wa^ed away
soon after its removal.) It was sdter-
wards brought here from Burton Con-
stable. It is said to have been
originally erected to commemorate
the landing of Henry Bolingbroke at
Ravenser, near Kilnsea. It is a tall
slender shaft, with much worn figures,
and is raised on steps.
[1 m. to the 1. of the station, is the
Churdi of Preeton, with a fine Perp.
tower, having large double windows
in the upper story. A figure re-
mains in a niche above the W. win-
dow. The Church is E. Eng. (S.
side of nave) with Dec. (N. side)
and Perp. (clerestory) additions.
The chancel was rebuilt in 1870.
The bells, " in 4th Eliz., were taken
out of this church and exported . . .
When the ship, wherein they were,
was clear off Humbre and launched
into the sea, being under sail, she,
yet within sight, was seen to sink
down into the sea, like that of Arthur
Prulkley, 38th Bp. of Bangor, who,
for the like sacrilege, was struck
blind " (Poulsony from an old memo-
randum). In the parish was the hos-
pital of St. Sepulchre, founded for
lepers by Alan FitzOsbem in the
reign of John. No remains exist]
[2 m. S. of Hedon, close to the
Humber, is PaghiU or Patil The
ch., vithout interest, is scwe distaoco
BaiOe 6. — Bwatwick — Ottringhm.
from the village; — hence the local
rhyme—
- ffich Fknl, ud Low l^nl, PaqI, and Pftol
Holme;
There was never a fair maid manied in Paal
town.
There is a lighthouse here, ahont
40 ft high, bult in 1886 by the
Trinity House of Hull, and a dis-
mantled fort has been rebuilt (20
men under a lieut. are stationed
here) as part of the sjstem of defence
for the Hmnber. At Paul Hohne,
poaseesed hj the Holme family from
a very early period, is a single brick
tower of the old house, dating, per-
luipe, from the reien of Henry Yll.
There is a small chapel at Thorn-
gmnhaM, in the parish of Paul, which
has Norm, portions, but is hardly
worth a Tieit, j
7} m. BunbwitSt Stat. (The low
ch. tower is seen L) This place, for a
considerable time, was the ^^ Caput
BaranisB," or " Head of the Seignoiy "
of HoklemesB. The Earls of Albe-
marle had their chief castle here, and
the records preserve many notices of
Biirstwick at such times as the
aeignory escheated to the Crown, and
was in the possession of the Kings of
KnglaxuL After the defeat of Bruce
by Bdward I. at Methven (June.
1306), his Queen the *' Countess of
Gamck,*' who had fallen into the
hands of the English, was consigned,
by letters of privy seal, to Bichard
C^sel, steward of the royal manor of
Bortwiek, to be detained in safe
cnstody. She was removed to Wind-
sor Castle in the first year of
Edward 11. Both kings, Edward I.
andIL, were frequently at Bnrstwick.
No trace of the castle remains. It is
said to hare stood in " South Park,"
about I mile W. of the villaee.
The Chnkh of Burstwidk is late
Dec., but of no great interest. It was
restored in 1853.
rrba Church of BwUm Pidma
(g>iii. KJL) is Qec. and Peip. St
111
Marys Chapel (Perp.), S. of the
chanc^, now serves as a schoolroom
It will hardly repay a visit The ch.
has been restored.]
9} m. Keytngham Stat. The ch.
here has a ulain broach spire — one of
three in Holdemess — ^the others being
at Ottringham and Patrington. AU
three serve as guides in the naviga-
tion of the Jmunber. Keyingham
Oh. seems orinnally Dec., but is
now rich in " debased ** work. There
is, however, a good Dec. E. window.
The Chartuhiry of Meaux Abbey re-
cords a great storm of wind and light-
ning (June 24, 1892), which threw
down 30 ft. of this spire, tore stones
from the walls, and split all the oaken
doors in the ch. The tomb of Philip
de Ingleberd, rector from 1306 to
1325, was untouched, and " oozed out
a sweet-scented oiL" ^faster Philip
was accounted "the most subtle Aris-
totelian in Oxford," and seems also
to have been held in some regard as
a saint.
pn Halsham Church (1 J ni. N.)—
which is late Dec. in character, with
perhaps Trans. - Noiroan piers and
arches dividing the N. aisle from
the nave — ^there is an unusual ar-
rangement of the sedilia, which are
enclosed under a single crocketed
arch, the head of which is filled with
flowing tracery. The ch. has been
restored at the cost of the rector, tiie
Bev. P. M. Shipton. On the N. side
of the chancel is the Chapel of St.
John of Beverley, in which the familv
of Constable were buried until 1802.
In it is an alabaster effigy of a knight,
temp. Bichard H. (?) He wears a
collar of SS., and his armour affords
a good study. Since 1802 the Con-
stables have been buried in a circular
mausoleum, E. of the ch.]
lOf m. Ottringham. The ch. here
(of which the spire is conspicuous)
hu seme £. Sog. portions, but it is
112
Baute 6. — Winestead — PatringUm,
of little interest. It was restored in
1860. At the next stat.,
13} m. Winesteady there is more to
attract the antiquary. The family of
Hildyard have been settled here since
the reign of Henry VI., and the ch.
contains some interesting memorials
of them. The building itself, with-
out a tower, is Perp. In a chantry,
S. of the chancel, is the altar-tomb,
with effigy, of Sir Christopher Hild-
yard ^died 1602)— a very fine example
of this period. At the foot of tnis
monument is the effigy of an unknown
ecclesiastic (15th cent). In the
chancel is the brass of a knight and
lady, with small figures of children
at their feet. This is supposed to be
the brass of Sir Robert Hildyard
(died 5th Hen. VIIO, who, under the
name of *^ Robin of Uedesdale," headed
a rising in Yorkshire in 1469 (8th
Edw. iV.) in favour of the Lan-
castrians, and together with Sir John
Conyers, advanced to Edgcote near
Banbuiy, where they defeated and
took prisoner the Earl of Pembroke.
This earl, with his brother and
Richard Woodville, Earl Rivers, were
beheaded at Northampton. " Robin,"*
however, seems afterwards to have
become a firm partisan of the house
of York, since (if this Sir Robert was
he) he was employed to conduct
5000 men from the North to support
the coronation of Richard HI. ; wnen
he received the honour of knighthood.
But the real history of Robin of Redes-
dale has yet to be ascertained. The
picture drawn of him in Bulwer*s
* Last of the Barons * is perhaps more
striking than truthful.
Winestead was the birthplace of
Andrew MarveU^ the poet and
** patriot." His father was for some
time rector here, and the birth of
his better-known son is recorded in
the register. He removed to Hull in
1624.
Winestead HaU, the present man-
sion of the Hildyards, dates from
1710, when it was erected on the
site of an older building. Its woods
are seen 1. On the rt. of the stat. is
TF^tfeJIaZ/ (W.Bailey, Esq.). There
is a large and important flax factory
here (bdonging to Messrs. Garth and
Marshall, of Leeds), of which the
chimney is conspicuous. Much flax
is grown in the neighbourhood ; and
is here prepared for the spinner by
means of not-water steeping, and
scutching' from flax straw.
14 m. PatringUm Stat, (the village
andch. are ^ m. rt. of station), so named
from its church, which is dedicated to
St. Patrick. The little town (Pop.
8748) is without interest, but the
* Church f which has been called '* the
glory of Holdemess " is, in truth, not
only one of the glories of Yorkshire but
of England. It would be difficult to
mention a more perfectly beautiful
church. The admiration of the visitor
** grows insensibly from the moment
tmit he first sees the taper spire against
the sky, to that of the last inspection
which he gives to the elaborate details
of the finished structure." — G. A,
Puole. In grace of composition and
beauty of detail Patrington Gh. is
hardly exceeded anywhere; and in
portions, — as the arcade of the spire
and the hooded porch of the N.
transept, — ^there is evidence of great
originality of design. Patrington is
said to be the "Queen" of Holder-
ness churches, as Hedon is the
"King;" the extreme grace of the
former ch. distinguishing it from the
dignity of Hedon.
The manor of Patrington was in
the hands of the Archbishops of York
from a period before the Oon<|uest to
the year 1545, when it was seised hy
the Crown. It has since passed
through many hands. The existing
ch. (with the exception of the g^reat
E. window) is throughout Dec, and
probably dates early in the reign of
Edward m. (circ. 1330?). It most
have been in course of erection at the
some time with the nave of York
Route 6. — Palrington Oliurch.
118
Minster ; and Archbuihop William of
Melton (1317-1342) may fairlj be
supposed to have aided the work
here, as well as in his own cathedral.
Robert of Patrington, a native of this
place, was master-mason at the Min-
ster from 136» to 1371, during the
building of the Presbytery (see Yorky
Rte. 1), and had, perhaps, assisted in
the construction of this noble ch.
Palrington Church consists of nave,
chancel, transept with £. and W.
aisles, and central tower and spire.
On the exterior, remark the W. win-
dow, floi^ing in its general character,
but transomed and showing signs of
approaching Perp. in the lines of
tniceiy at the head. The tracery
of the aisle windows is completely
flowing. The N. and' S. porches,
above the latter of which is a parvise ;
the buttresses which divide each bay
of nave, chancel, and transepts, and
tenninate in foliated pinnacles; and
the very grotesque gurgoyles, which
project from the buttre^es at the
base of the parapet, should all be
remarked. The N. and S. cables of
the transepts resemble the W . front,
but the windows are without Perp.
lines in their tracery. The doorway
iu the N. transept deserves especial
notice for the bold relief of the corbels,
—a lion and an eagle, — which sup-
port the hooded canopy, and for
the figure of our Lord at the point
of the arch, ** holding up His hands,
as if to say to those who enter,
I &m the door.'* From the S. tran-
sept projects the small Lady-chapel.
The chancel windows are richer tnan
those in the nave, and the great £.
window is a Perp. insertion ; not im-
possibly the work of Bobert of Pa-
tringtos. The roofs retain their origi-
nal pitch, a fact to which the ch. is
maiiuy indebted for its graceful out-
line. The design of the tower and
spire is singuarly gxacefnl and
cvi^nal, although the massiveness
of Hedon gives perhaps greater dig-
nity. Bound the third story of the
\Yorkthire.']
tower, which is the bell-chamber, runs
an arcade of four arches on each side,
of which two are pierced with square-
headed windows. From the tower
rises an octagon, supported by flying
buttresses at the angles, and finished
at the top with a parapet and IG
crocketed pinnacles, from within
which the octangular spire rises to
the height of 180 ft. from the ground.
WUhin the ch. the nave is separated
from its aisles, and the tiansepts
from their aisles, by very graceful
clustered columns, with richly foliated
capitals, and corbel-heads at the inter-
sections of the outer arch-mouldings.
The tower is supported by four mas-
sive piers, each containing 20 shafts.
The fine bases of the piers should
be noticed. The great (and for a
parish church imusual) development
of the transepts somewhat dwarf
both nave and choir. "The Lady-
chapel in the S. transept (the eastern
aisle of which is groined throughout)
forms a three-sided apse, two sides of
which are pierced for windows, whilst
that in the centre shows an oblong
tablet above the altar site, with taber-
nacle work in three divisions above it.
The arrangement of the central boss
in the groining of this chapel is per-
haps unique ; it is fonned into a pen-
dant, open on the eastern side, so as to
contain a taper which would throw its
light down upon the altar. The three
closed sides are niches, within pointed
pinnacles, containing sculptures of
the Annunciation, St. John the
Evangelist, and St. Catherine." The
under-snrface forms a rose. In the
S. transept is an unfinished tri-
forium (?), approached by open steps
from a door opening into the tower.
Here is also tne font, a smgle block
of granite, 12-8ided without and cir*
culu- within, and much enriched.
In the N. transept, the eastern arch
is raised on two steps, and projecting
piscinas remain in each bar. In
the N.E. comer remark a bracket
with a pigr— the place, possibly, of
•St. Anthony's light.' The whole
X
114
BoiUe 6. — Sunk Island — Welwick.
of the nave and transepts remains
covered with a jellow wash. The
chancel has been restored, and is
separated from the nave by an open
screen of wood, also restored. On the
S. side are three very graceful sedilia,
with a piscina ; and on the N. side of
the altar, one of the most perfect
JSader Se^^ulchree remaining in Eng-
land. It 18 of f oar compartments, one
above another. In the lowest are the
three soldiers, the keepers of the
sepulchre. The next compartment is
vacant, and was probably that in which
the crucifix was solemnly deposited on
the night of Good Friday, and where
it remained until Easter morning. In
the third the Saviour is represented
rising from the tomb, with censmg
angels on either side. The fourth is
vacant.
From the summit of the tower
there is a wide view over the whole
level district — one sheet of rich grain
in the autumn — with the estuary of
the Humber and Sunk Island in front ;
but the ascent is not to be recom-
mended to persons of weak nerves.
A staircase leads to the exterior roof
of the N. Transept, and thence, by a
gallery dose under the ridge of the
roof, access is gained to the tower.
SSunk Idandf between Patrington
the Humber, containing a culti-
vated tract of more than 6000 acres,
has been entirely formed by the
" warp '' or sand and salt deposited by
the Humber. It first appeared as a
sandbank at low water, and gradually
increased, imtil in 1666 it was given
by Charles H. to Col. Gilby, Governor
of Hull. It afterwards reverted to
the Crown, in the possession of which
it still remains, but is of course in
the hands of lessees. It has been em-
banked from time to time, as new
portions were formed, and it is now
connected with the mainland, so as
no longer to deserve the name of
"Island.'* In 1831 it was erected
into a parish by Act of Parliament,
and a chapel, which had been built
in 1802, became the parish cL The
cultivated portion of the island is
among the richest ground in York-
shire.]
From Patrington the tourist may
make an excursion to Spurn Head^
(13 m.), the extreme S!E. point of
the Yorkshire coast. There is, how-
ever, little to reward him, especially
if he has been sufficiently strong-
headed to climb to the roof of Pa-
trington tower, where he would see
the general character of the district.
At Welwick (2 m. S.E. from Pa-
trington) is a ch. of some interest,
which in 1361 was appropriated by the
Abp. of York to Beverley Minster. It
is dedicated to the Virgin, of whom a
headless statue remains in a niche
over the S. porch. Under the E.
window of the S. aisle is a remark-
able monument, which has evidently
been removed from elsewhere to ite
present position. It is traditionally
said to nave been brought here from
Bnrstall Priory ; but this is quite un-
certain. The monument consists of a
low-arched recess, with a rich mass of
tabernacle work above it. The efiigy,
which is that of a priest in alb and
cope, is, very unusually, laid within the
recess in a sort of sunk coffin, the
side of which has flowing tracery, and
medallions with the emblems of the
Evangelists. It dates apparently
about 1350. The mass of enriched
work above the recess has been im-
perfectly put together after the re-
moval of the monument from its
original position. At the £. end of
the N. aisle is a brass for William
Wright of Plewland and his wife
(1620). John and Christoplier
Wright, of "Plewhind" or Plough-
land in this parish, were concerned in
the Gunpowder Plot.
The greater part of the Holdemess
churches, especially those on the
coast, are built with .« cobble " — ^larce
pebbles found on the shore. The
Soute 6. — Easingion — Spum Head.
115
fonts are nearly all of granite, and of
course were bronght by sea.
At Skeffling (2 m. S.£. from Wei-
viict) the ch. has £. £ng. portions,
and belonged to the Priory of Bur-
stall, an alien hoose, dependent on the
monastery of S. Martin, of Albemarle,
in Norrmandy. In the reign of Richard
IL Uiis priory was made over bv the
convent of S. Martin to Eirkst^
Abbey, and remained in the hands of
that house till the Dissolntion. The
site of the Priory (S. of Skeffling) has
been entirely swept away by the sea.
Dhnlington SiU, on the coast, 2 m.
from Skeffling, is the highest point
(146 ft. above high water) between
Spmm Point and Flamborongh Head.
It is a cliff of boulder clay and
pebbles.
Eagmgton Church (2 m. £. from
Skeffling, is partly £. £ng., and
deserves notice. There is a large
and fine Perp. £. window. Beyond
Easington (or Skeffling) the pedes-
trian may walk along the great
embankment on the margin of the
flats to Kilnsea. The view is sin-
gular, ^ the bank stretching as far as
eye can see in a straight line to the
'R. and W., covered with coarse grass
and patches of sea holly (Erynge
mariHmd), Its outer slope is loose
sand, falling awav to the damp line
left by the tide, beyond which all is
mud — a great brown expanse, over-
spread for miles Fishermen
wade across it in huge boots from
their boats to the firm beach, and dig
down through it two or three feet to
find firm holding-ground for their
anchocs From Spurn to Sunk
Island this whole northern shore is
of the same brown, monotonous aspect
— a desert, where the only living
things are a few sea-biids, wheeling
and daxting rapidly, their white wings
fiadiing by contrast with the sad-
coloured shoro.*"— TF. White, The
a&ciait Cfauzch of KUnsea disappeared
with the cM on which it stood. One
half fell into the sea in 1826, and the
remainder in 1831. The old font is
preserved in the parsonage garden at
Skeffling. A new ch., of red brick,
with white string-courses and arches,
was built hero in 1865. Population
of town and district, 41,102.
A narrow natural causeway of sand
and pebbles, between 2 and 3 miles
long, connects Kilnsea with the Spum
Head, the northern limit of Humber.
This ^* is a mass of pebbles and sand,
movable by wind and tide ; yet so
balanced are the forces by which it is
assailed from the river and the sea,
that it has long supported Smeaton's
lighthouses, and is one of the Ipast
unstable parts of this variable line of
coast. It is not, properly speaking,
a part of the old hmd, but a long
curved bank, thrown up by the sea,
on the place of a tract of land which
has been destroyed. It is subject to
continual waste by the action of the
currents setting along the shore south-
ward; but this waste is continually
repaired by new materials which
these currents bring from the cliffs,
which undergo destruction farther
north. It is out of the ruins of
Holdemess that the Spurn is con-
stituted and maintained." — PhiUipa.
On the highest point of the Spum
stands the ughthouse, built by Smea-
ton in 1776, with a second and lower
tower at the foot of the inner slope,
where its base is covered by every
tide. Smeaton's Lighthouse is 90 ft.
high, and there is a wide view from
its gaUery, embracing the low coast
of Holdemess on one side, and the
shore of the estuary on the other.
The sands (or mud) seen between the
inner bank of the Spurn and the shore
towards Patring^n are known as the
" Trinity Diy Sands," and are reclaim-
able by proper barriers. The lesser
tower is 50 ft. high, and is approached
by a long wooden bridge, above reach
of the water. It is the third tower
which has been built here— -two
others having been destroyed by the
X2
116
Route 6. — Witheninea.
sea. Landward of the lighthouseB is
a TOW of cottages, inhabited bj the
crew of a lifeboat, which has often
been of great service on this wild
coast.
In 1817 the extent of ground abont
the Spam (comprising Sie sandbank
bj which it is approached) was 100
acres. In 1833 it was only about 58.
The coast is constantly changing, and
its waste not onlj repairs the Spurn
Head, but enlarges the Trinity Sands,
the Sunk Island, and the whole shore
of the estuary. But the shore of the
Humber in its turn has been not less
liable to change. One of its most
ancient ports was Eavenser, Baven-
apume, or Raveruburah^ with an
island adjoining called Bavenser-odd,
or Bavenirode, Bavenser was within
and near the Spurn Head. All
traces of it, howerer, had nearly dis-
appeared at the end of the 14th cent. ;
'* and it seems possible that the Spurn
Point itself may have been since
driven inward, as the clay cliffs of
Kilnsea, on the north, decayed."—
PhiUipt. Bavenser was of sufficient
importance to be summoned to send
members to Parliament in 1305 ; and
in 1298 its merchant burgesses offered
800 marks to Edward f. for a con-
firmation of privileges, whilst those
of Hull onlv presented 100. But
about 1340 the sea had done great
mischief at Bavenser. The merchants
began to remove to Hull; the dead
were transferred to Easington; the
town was at last abandoned, and
swept away by the floods. It was
here, however, that Bolingbroke
landed in 1399--
(,*'The banished Bolingbroke repeals hfmself,
And with uplifted anns is sate arrived
AtRavenspurg **-~Bichard li^ actlLsc. a—
(a cross, said to have been set up to
commemorate his landing, is now at
Hedon — see aiUe); and here that
Edward IV. hmded from Flanders in
1471, before the battle of Bamet
Bolingbroke found a "hermit-priest"
at Bavenser engaged in buildmg an
oratory, and, as Henry FV., confirmed
him in possession, m 1428 another
hermit, Kichard Beedbarowe, built a
"bekentower" — the predecessor of
Smeaton's lighthouse— at Bavenser.
The place is last mentioned by Leland
in 1538, and it is probable that Sunk
Island (the formation of which began
in the reign of Charles I.) is due in
great part to the wash of the land
from tne ancient coast of Bavenser.
Many villages on Humber side, whose
names appear in ancient maps, have,
like the more important burgh, dis-
appeared entirelv.
(For a general notice of the Hum-
ber see Bte. 3, HuU,)
From Patrington the rly. turns
N.E. toward
18 m. Withernsea Terminus, (/tin :
the Queens Hotel, near the stat.,
belonging to the Hull and Holdemess
Bly. Company. It is comfortable,
and well placed, overlooking the sea,
and surrounded by its private grounds.
The ch. is close by.^ Withernsea is
a small and somewnat dreary water-
ing-place, frequented by the inhabi-
tants of Hull, but of little eeneral
attraction. The coast, like aiu that
between Spurn Point and Flam-
borough BLead, is low and bare,
without rocks, and even without sea-
plants, although it has its interest for
the geologist " Destruction of land,
once fertile and populous, is the
melancholy characteristic of the whole
coast from Spurn northward to Brid-
lington. Through all the reach of
history, and probably for longer
periods before, the sea has here been
gaining on the land. The rate at
which the cliffs recede from the in-
satiable waves has been measured of
late years, and found to equal 2^
yards in a year on an average ; which,
upon 36 miles of coast, amounts to
about 30 acres. At this rate, which
may be less than formerly, when the
coast was less protected by Flanx-
Boute S.-^Wiihemsea,
117
borough Head, one mile in breadth
has been loet since the Norman Con-
anest, and more than two miles since
iie Boman occupation of Eboracmn."
—PhtUips. Upon the land thus
eaten away hj the sea stood the
ancient ch. of Withemsea, which is
known to have existed before the
present edifice was consecrated in
1488. This, which was long a ruined
shell of late Perp. character, has been
restored, and is now in very good
order. Withemsea is a township in
the par. of Holljm, the ch. of which,
2 m. S., was rebuilt in 1816.
In a depressed part of the cliff
between Withemsea and the site of
Owthome (1 m. N.) is a remarkable
fresh-water deposit, indicating the
site of an ancient lake. " There is a
blue lacustrine claj, with Anodonta ;
above, a Uyer of peat, with many
roots and branches of trees, hazehiuts,
leaves, and, less commonly, horns and
bones of the red deer. A canoe,
made of the trunk of a tree, was also
foond here, like others of early British
date which have been found in the
sediments of the Aire and the Calder,
in the fens of Lincolnshire, and many
other places.*' — PhtUips, The branches
of trees found here are locally known
as ** Noah's wood." On the clay, when
exposed, marks of birds' feet, espe-
cially swans, sometimes appear.
The ancient ch. and churchyard of
Owthome have disappeared since
1816, when the E. end of the ch.
fell, sowing the shore with ruin and
with shattered coffins. The last frag-
ment of ihe churchyard was under-
mined about 1838. The churches of
Owthome and Withemsea were known
as the ^ Sister Churches," and were
said to have been built by two sisters,
who at first agreed that a single ch.
would be sufficient for the adjoining
manors ; but they quarrelled as to the
Tespectrve merits of a tower or a spire,
and each sister at last built her own
eh. In the Vicaiage of Owthome the
Ber. Enoch Sinclair was murdered in
1788, by his two nieces and a servant
named Alvin. Alvin afterwards mar-
ried the elder niece. Her sister, four
years afterwards, confessed the crime
on her deathbed. Alvin was taken
and condemned: but, during the
preaching of the <* condemned^ ser-
mon at York, he protested his inno-
cence aloud. The shock proved fatal
to the preacher, a Mr. Mace, who fell
dead in the pulpit. The murderer
declared that the hand of Gk>d was
evident, and the ** vox populi " sup-
ported him; but he confessed his
guilt the next day on the scaffold.
3^ m. W. of Withemsea is South
Frdhingham HaU, long the residence
of the Frothinghams, who were esta-
blished here m>m the 12th cent to
the 17th. The house, which stands
low and is surrounded by dark wood,
dates from the 16th and 17th cents.
From Withemsea the tourist may
proceed alone the coast to Hornsea
(15 m.), or, if he pleases, to Burling-
ton (30 m.). He will not choose this
route if he is in search of the pic-
turesque— although the changing
lights over the sea and the low coast
have their own beauty : but it offers
some points of interest for the geolo-
gist and the antiquary. The country
is not altogether flat, but undulating
rich ground, the " valleys" or " hol-
lows" being in some parts rather
deep. The villages are generally on
the highest points, so that their eh.
towers are conspicuous. The roire of
Patrington ana the tower oi Aid-
borough are great landmarks. Hie
natural richness of the soil was pro-
bably one of the principal induce-
ments for the early and numerous
settlements in this part of Yorkshire.
There must anciently have been mudi
wood; but whole tracts of land lay
ready for cultivation with very little
trouble.
AtfiimdfoyJfsrs (between Withem-
sea and Tunstall) is an old lake, of
118
BofOe 6. — TunOaU—'Aldbormgh.
the same character as that already
noticed between WitheniBea and Ow>
thome, '^ not quite destroyed by the
sea, on a lerel as low as that of Ow-
thome, and yielding similar remains
of qnadrupeds. Washed out from the
cliff of boulder clay immediately
beyond, teeth of elephants have been
found.''— Pfti2/»p«.
The Church of TungtaU (4 m. N.
of Withemsea) is Perp. (with an E.
Eng. chancel) and of little interest
In it is preserved an ancient quern or
mill of some size. The ch. was re.-
stored in 1873.
TRoosCShoe, Celt, a moor?), 2 m.
S.W. of Tunstall, was the lordship of
the powerful family of Hoos or Boss
from the reign of Henry L to the
beghming of the 16th cent In the
first half of the 18th it became the
property of the Sykes of Sledmere,
m whose hands it still remains. There
are no remains of the Castle of
Boos. The Chnrcli, approached by
an avenue dP yews, is early Dec.
(nave arcades) and Perp. (nave, clere-
story, chancel, and tower) ; and was
entirely restored in 1842 by the
Bev. Charles Hotham. There is an
east window by Clayton and Bell;
and another containing shields of the
Barons of Boos and of the seignoiy of
Holdemess. It was in Boos Cans, in
this parish, that the sing^ular carving
now in the Hull Museum (see Bte. 3)
was found.!
Along afl this low coast whales are
occasiomdly stranded. *' The posses-
sor of Burton Constable, the Lord
Paramount of Holdemess, daims such
spoils of the sea, and in one instance
a fine spermaceti whale was carried
off to the Hall, where its huge skele-
ton remains." — PhQUw, Another is
in the Museum at HuU (Bte. 3).
At HikUm (2 m. N. from Tunstall)
is a small and very good new cfaurcn
i^Feanon archit) built as a memorial
to the late Lady Sykes, on the site of
an ancient Norm, building, one portal
of which is retained (S. side) in tlie
existing church. The rer^os, the
pulpit, and the font are inlaid with
coloured marbles, representing sub-
jects from Scripture. That of the
reredos is the supper at Emmaus with
the words "^ He was known of them
in breaking of bread." The tower is
crowned with a broach spire. Hilston
is on the highest point of the cliff on
this coast, which here rises to 80 ft.
On jStZston Mtmni^ N. of the village,
is an octagonal tower of brick, which
serves as a landmark, and was built in
1750 by one of the Storr family,
whose mansion has disappeared. Froin
the upper room of this tower there is
a wide prospect over the German
Ocean. The woods of Qrimtton HaU
(Major M. J. Grimston) are passed rt
between Hilston and Gkuion. The
house dates from the end of the 18th
cent The older house of the Grim-
stons, where they are said to have
been settled before the Conquest, was
OrimHon Garth, nearer the sea. The
moat only remains.
Oarton Church (1} m. from Hil-
ston) is chiefly Perp. with an £. £.
tower. [At Sumbleton, 3 m. W. of
Garton, is a late Perp. ch. of some
interest Danthorpe HaU (W. Mars-
din, Esq.) in this par. is of brick, and
ancient At Eletenwnck is a chapel
consecrated temp. Hen. YIIL]
Aldborough (Pou. 1469), 3 m. N. W.
of Garton, is well known to the anti-
ouaiy from its ch., which contains a
Saxon inscription. The ch., dedicated
to St Bartholomew, has (except the
chancel) been entirely rebuilt, appa-
rently in exact reproduction of its pre-
decessor, whidi was built between 1353
and 1377; but large portions of an
earlier building were preserved and
worked up in it This first ch. was
no doubt destroyed by the sea, and
was that of whidi the Saxon inscrip-
tion records the foundation. This is
in the S. aisle. It is circular, and
Boute 6. — Aldboraugh.
119
mrrotmcls what has po§Bibly been a
dial, marked by lines into eight hour-
spaces ; withm one of wMch is a
crosB-lined figure, the meaning of
which is not dear. The words are,
** Ulf hst arssran eyriee for Hanum
and far GnrUhard savAa,'* "Ulf
ordered this ch. to be built for the
souls of Hanum and Ghmthard.** The
stone projects about an inch from the
wbU, and immediatel j below it is the
pointed top of what seems to have
been a pedmient above a portaL The
Ulf here commemorated is the great
Danish ** Jarl " of Deira, who bestowed
80 many manors on the ch. of York,
and whose carved horn, which he laid
on the altar in confirmation of his
gifts, is still preserved in the Minster.
(See York, Bte. 1.) Ulf is recorded
in the Doomsdaj sorvej as lord of
Aldboroagh in the days of the Con-
fessor, and his ** house" was repre-
sented by the Barons of Greystock in
Cnrnberiand, where he is said to have
> died, and where his grave was long
shown. ^There is a dial, divided,
like this, mto eight n>aces, with a
Saxon inscription of the same date,
over the porch of Kirkdale church,
and another, resembling it, in the
neiehbooring ch. of Edstone. For
' bo£, see Bte. 18a.) Against the first
pier is a rude, bare-footed figure,
wearing a sort of petticoat or kUt in
long strips.
At the £. end of the N. aisle is
the fine monument, with effigy, of
Sir John de Meaux (de Me]sar--see
Bte. 7), died 1877 (1st Bichard H.).
John de Meaux, temp. Stephen, ex-
changed lands in Meaux for Bewick
in this parish, where his descendants
remained until the house became ex-
tinct in the male line with the knight
here figured, who is locally known as
' ^ GHant Morrell," and is said to have
been a man of vast strength and
stature. This tradition has perhaps
srisen from the unusual size of the
effigy, which is 6 ft 6 in. long, and
2 ft across the shoulders. A helmet
(of later date) hangs above the monu-
I ment Adjoining this tomb is another,
I bearing the effigy of a lady, whose
robe displays the six griffins volant of
Meaux, and who is probably Maude
! de Meaux, wife of Sir John. Both
tombs and effigies have been sadly
mutilated by the boys of the parish
school, which wss long kept in this
part of the aisle, the arches N. and
W. being boarded up. In those hap-
pily past days the helmet now hang-
ing on the wall was used as a coal-
scuttle. The position of the church,
on high ground, and on one side of
a hollow swecm, is noticeable. An
ancient stronghold here (the "aid'*
borough), like the church of UU, was
nearer the sea.
The Church of Mapleton (3} m
from Aldborough) stands high (60 ft)
for this coast, and there is a good
view from the churchyard. The ch.
has £. £. and Dec portions, and has
been entirely restored. As a proof
of the manner in which the sea is
gaining on this coast, it may be noted
that in 1786 Mapleton ch. wss 28
chains 76 links distant from the cli£f.
In 1858 it was 21 ch. 62 1., and in
June, 1871, 19 ch. SO 1. RdOestan
Hall, N. of the ch., was the residence
of William Broueh, Esq. (died 1783),
who, as MarshiS of the Admiralty,
superintended the execution of Ad-
mural Byng. The pirate Paul Jones,
who had an especial grudge against
the Marshal, used always to pay him
the compliment of a shot in passing
his house, which is a good sea-mark.
One of these shot is still preserved at
the hall.
3 m. N. of Mapleton we reach
Homwa, (HoUX, The Marine. Sec
Bte. 7.)
120
BotUe l.^Hull to Hormea — Holdemess.
ROUTE 7.
HULL TO HORNSEA AND SKIPSEA.
iNorth'Eagtem Railway— Hull and
Hornsea Branch,')
[Y tnlns daily In 50 min.]
This line, of 16 m., takes us across
the centre of the district known as
" HoUderness," a short notice of which
is here given.
As a natural division, Holdemess
includes the whole country between
the Wold hills, the German Ocean,
and the Humber. The boundaries of
the existing "seignory" or wapen-
take (which is in 3 divisions) run
from Barmston to Spurn Point, from
Spurn Point to Hull, and from Hull
along the Hull river, and by a line
from thence N. to Barmston.
<* TiordinR*, there is in Yorktthirc. as I gf'sse,
A monh controe ycalled Uoldemesse,"
writes Chaucer: and the whole dis-
trict is one of ** extensive marshes and
silt lands, — ^ramified among low hills
of navel, sand, and clay, — materials
drifted from the N. and N.W. parts of
England, and enclosing some rocks
derived from Scotland and Norway, or
more distant regions. In the hollows
of these masses occur small lacustrine
deposits, with bones of elk, stag, boar,
&c. ; while in them and in the drift,
and in the flinty covering of the
chalk, elephant's bones sometimes
occur." — Phillips, There is much
planted, but no natural wood; al-
though oak, yew, and fir are found
abundantly in the ancient deposits.
The land is for the most part of
extreme richness, and the crops of
grain are magnificent. There is no
picturesque scenery. The district is
drained (so far as any natural drainage
is found in it) by the Hull river, the
name of which possibly enters into
that of Holdemess — Hol-deira-ness —
the ** ness " or projecting headland of
the hollow (hoi; of Deira ? An ex-
tensive and complicated system of
drainage, however, has been intro-
duced about Hull and throughout
Holdemess since the end of the last
century ; and the result has been that
large districts, which were formerly
either marsh lands or altogether under
water, have been brought into the
highest state of cultivation.
In the days of the Confessor, Hol-
demess was divided among many
over-lords, — ^the great Earls Morcar
and Tostig, besides Ulf, famous for
his grant to York Minster (see Aid-
horoughj Rte. 6) among them. The
Conqueror gave the greater part of
tiie territory to Drogo de Beurere (so
the name is given in Domesday —
Beveren), a Flemish adventurer who
had joined his host. He built a castle
at Skipsea, as "caput baronise," of
which the only traces are the keep,
the mound, and some outworks (see
S resent route, pofl). On the death or
ight of Drogo, William gave Hol-
demess to Odo, a son of Stephen
Count of Champagne, who married
Adelisa, the Conqueror's niece. (Odo,
it is said, found Holdemess a barren
country, bearing nothing but oats ;
and the king, on his complaint, gave
him Bytham in Lincolnshire, "to
feed his infant son with wheaten
bread.**) Odo was also Earl of Albc-
mi^rle (AunftlCt oq the Bresle river,
Boute 7. — HddemeM — Meaux Ahbey.
121
N. of Rouen). The seignoiy con-,
tinned in the hands of the powerful
house of Albemarle until the reign of
Edward I., when it reverted to the
Crown for want of heirs. (Among
the lords of Albemarle, succeeding
either directly or as husbands of
heiresses, had been— William le Gros,
one of the English leaders at the
battle of the Standard (Rte. 16\ after
which he was created Earl of York-
shire— he was the builder of Scar-
borough Castle (Bte. 12) ; Baldwin
de Betnn, the friend and favourite of
CcBmr de Lion; and three Williams
de Fortibus. The last heiress, Ave-
line, was married to Edmund Earl of
Lancaster, son of Henry III. She
died without issue, and her vast
inheritance passed to the Crown.)
Edward L retained Holdemess in his
own hands ; Edward 11. gave it to
Piers Gaveston. It then reverted to
the Crown ; and after grants to
various persons (among them Thomas
of Woodstock, 6th son of Edward m. ;
and Thomas Duke of Clarence, 2nd
son of Henry IV.), Holdemess was
bestowed by Philip and Mary on
Heniy Neville, 5th Earl of Westmore-
land, who gave it to his son-in-law,
Sir John (instable, of Burton Con-
stable. The Constables still hold the
''seignoiy, liberty, and manor" of
Holdemess; but the present lord is
not in direct descent from the first
Cuthbert TunstaU of Wycliffe, the
Sheldons, and finally Sir Thomas
Clifford, all connected with the an-
cient Constables, hare succeeded to
the lordship, and taken the name of
Constable. (For an ample account
of the descent of the seignorv, see
PoidmnCB 'History of Holdemess.')
From a very early period until the
grant to the Constables, the " caput
banmisd" was at Burstwick, where
was a castle and a park (see Bte. 6).
Barton Constable has since been the
head of the seignory.
Leaving Hull from t^ie Paragon
Stat, and passing the small stations
at Stepney and Wilmington (see Rte.
6), we reach
5 m. SuUtm Stat The ch., Dec.
and Perp., has been restored, and con-
tains the tomb, with effigy, of Sir
John de Sutton, died 12th Edw. HI*
The father and mother of the poet
Mason are buried here.
[2} m. N. is the ch. of Wcujhen
(pron. Wawne\ chiefly Perp., but
hardly worth a visit In the parish,
1} m. farther, are the very scanty
remains of Meaux Abbey, founded
1150, by William le Gros, Earl of
Albemarle, in order to obtain absolu-
tion for the non-fulfihnent of his vow
to join the Crosade. The abbey was
Cistercian, and was peopled from
Fountains. Like the rest of their
order, the monks of Meaux suffered
much during the reign of John, and
were at one time sheltered by Baldwin
de Betun, in his castle at Bnistwick.
The abbot and 22 monks died of the
black plague in 1S49. At the Disso-
lution the clear revenue of the abbey
was 2982. The site has passed through
many hands (one of itis owners was
Elizabeth's Earl of Leicester); but
the buildings, which are said to have
been very stately and extensive, were
soon pidled down, and little now
remains beyond a small fragment of
wall, and a gateway. The moats
which surrounded the abbey, and the
site of the ch., are still traceable.
Some tesselated pavement (of very
good design), and the tomb-slabs of
a lady, and of an abbot of the monas-
trCry, may be seen in the garden of
the farmhouse. There is much flue
old wood ; and the ground, which is
rather elevated, affords views towards
Beverley and the Wolds. Baldwin de
Betun was buried here. The name
Meaux had been given to this place
by a certain Gamel, of Meaux, in
fVance, who had accompanied the
Conqueror to England, and settled in
I{oldeme89. The first abbot, Adam,
122 BoiUe 7. — Swim — SJdrlcmgk — Burton Cknutcibk.
called it "Melsa.^ The chronicle of
Meanx (de Melsa) from 1150 to 1400,
has been edited, in the BqUb series, by
£. A. Bond.]
7} m. Swine, (The name maj,
perhaps, refer to a creek which an-
ciently reached as far as the village,
and " Swynhmnbr," mentioned as a
port in the reign of Ed. I., probably
represents this place. So the '^ Zwyn"
was the arm of the sea which once
stretched inland to Bruges, and Swine
is the name of the passage between
the islands of Wollin and Usedom, at
the month of the Oder. Swinemunds
is the town at the sea entrance of this
passage.) The ch. here, formerly that
of St Mary's Priory, has been re-
stored, and is worth a visit The
priory, fomided by Bobert de Verli,
in the reign of Stephen, was for
Cistercian nuns. The church was
originally cruciform, with a central
tower; but the ancient nave has
entirely disappeared, and the present
tower dates from 1787. The rest of
the ch. shows late Norm. (Trans.)
work (piers, arches, and clerestoiy),
with later additions. The nuns' seats,
with misereres (Dec.), remain. At
the end of the N. aisle is the Hilton
chapel, containing some monuments
of uie Hiltons, Lords of tiie Manor of
Swine from the beginning of the
13th cent to the reign of Henry VI.
The oaken screen, tlm)ugh which the
chapel is entered, was added by Lord
Darcy Qhe then Lord of Swine) in
1531. There are monts. with effigies
for Sir Bobert Hilton (circ. Henry
V.) ; and two others, for knights and
ladies of the same family, and of
earlier date (Hen. IV., Bdw. IIL).
In the wall of the S. aisle are two
Hilton effigies, circ. Bich. H. All
are much shattered and defaced.
About 1 m. N.W. of the ch. was a
Boman camp, all trace of which has
nearly disappeared. An urn, con-
taining nearly 1500 copper coins (the
earliest, of Constantme the Great),
was found here 1826. Near the ch. [
is a mound surrounded by trees, which
local tradition asserts to be the grave
mound of Swegen or Sweyne, the
Danish king of England, who died at
GkunsboTOugh, a.d. 870. Swegen was
really buried in his own church of
Boskild in Denmark, and his name
is in no way connected witib that of
Swyne.
8} m. Skirlaugh Stat is still in the
par. of Swine.
South Skirlaugh (Pop. 2246), on
the S. bankof astream called Skirlau^
Beck, is remarkable as the birthplace
of Walter Skirlaugh, themunificentBp.
of Durham (1388-1405), who is said to
have been the son of a sieve-maker —
a parentage very probably invented
from his armorial oearings, six osier
wands interlaced in cross. Bp. Skir-
laugh became the proprietor of an
estate here, on which he built the
beautiful chapd which still renuuns,
and is an excellent example of early
Perp. It consists of a western tower,
crowned by a parapet of great ele-
gance ; and of nave and clumoel, of
which the division was only marked
by the screen, no longer existing.
Ijiere are six bays on either side,
divided by pinnacled buttresses. The
details deserve attention; and the
fpnace of the little building amply
justifies Pugin's selection of it for nis
* Contrasts,* where it appears on the
same plate with St. Pancras, London.
It was probably unfinished at the
time of Bp. Skirlaugh*s death, since
his will provides 200 maiks for its
completion.
Tne school adjoining was endowed
Tvith 202. a year by Mannaduke Lang-
dale, by will dated 1609.
10| m. Burton CkmstMe Stat
From this station the tourist (having
ascertained that the house is shown,
which is not always the case) m%y
visit the stately park and mansion
of Burton Constable (Sir F. A. Talbot
Clifford Constable), one of the largest
BaiUe T.-^BwrUm OontiMs — HomiBea.
128
houses of its cUsb in Yorkshire, though
wareely one of the most interest-
ing, ths mamnr began to be called
Bnrton Constable (a^ the heralds)
after the marriage of Ulbert, son of the
'* Constable " who fonght on the side
of the Conqneror at Hastings, to Eren-
boich, (?) heiress of Burton. From
that time the Constables held it in di-
rect succession, until, at the beg^inning
of the last centuj, it passed, for want
of heirs, to Cuthbert Tonstall, nephew
of the last William Constable. The
SheUbms and CUffords, who have
since held it, were all connected with
the Constables, and have assumed
the name. Sir Henzy Constable was
created Yisooont Dunbar by James I. ;
that title became extinct on the
failure of the direct line.
The Fork of Burton Constable is
about 5} m. in circuit ; flat towards
the B. and S. E., but it rises gradually
westward towards '<Boe HiU,"— -no
Tery great height, but commanding
wide views over the flat country,
toward the Humber and the Wolds.
The park is weU wooded, and om-
tains a lake of 16 acres. The fallow
deer are numerous; and there are
two " paddocks " for red deer, which
are regnlariy hunted. A herd of
wild cattle (Bo$ Urwi), resembling
those of Chillingham and of Chart-
ley, was long preserved here; but
they were destroyed by distemper to-
ward the middle of last century.
The house is of various dates ; but
the two principal fronts (E. and W.)
may be temp. James or Charles I.,
aldbongfa they have been altered; —
the W. front apparently by Cuthbert
Constable (Tiuistall), whose mono-
gram runs along the parapet The
mass oftibe house is said to be of
Henry VIIL's reign. In the entrance-
hall are some uunily portraits, in-
cluding that of the fint Lend Dunbar.
Many other pictures (none, perhaps,
of great interest or importance) are
seattend throughout the apartments.
some of which are fine. The grand
staircase, and the library (110 ft
long), are especially wcnrth notice.
Miany important documents con-
nected with the history of Holder-
ness (includittgs Dade's coUections, on
which Poulson*s history is founded)
are preserved here ; and the MS. li-
brary includes all the collections of
Dr. Burton, editor of the ^Monas-
tieon Eboracense,* besides the mo-
nastic charters rescued from the ruins
of St Mary's Tower, York, in 1644.
The house contains a R. C. chapel.
Crossing the little stream of the
Lamwith, which rises near the £.
coast, and runs across Holdemess to
fall into the Hull river, and passing
11} m. Wliitedale Stat, the wooded
park of Bite EaU (R. Bethell, Esq.)
is seen 1. The house dates from
1820. The Bethells have been here
since the reign of James I. The ch.
of E. Eng. character was rebuilt in
1845. Bite Buehy a plantation of
ash-trees on a rising ground, is visi-
ble from a great distance, and is one
of the landmarks of Holdemess. The
church of Long Biitonj 1\ m. W. of
Rise, on the road from Hull to Brid-
lington, is Perp., with a modem
chancel, but of little interest.
12} m. Hatfldd Stat The single
object of interest here is the frag-
ment of an ancient cross, of somewhat
unusual character, which stands at
the junction of three narrow roads.
On the shaft of the cross is a vino
springing from a vase or chalice. The
vase rests on four couchant lions.
Passing rt. GoxhtU, where the ch.
was rebuilt in 1840, and 15} m.
Hornsea Bridge Stat (over the beck
that runs into the sea from Hornsea
Mere), half a mile farther we reach
16 m. Homeea Terminw. (Hotel,
The Marine, but inquiry should be
made at Hull whether it is open. It
124
Baute 7. — Hcmsea,
is closed in winter. It stands on a
rising ground, looking to Flam-
borough Head N., and over a wide
extent of low coast.)
Hornsea (Pop. 3233), like Withem-
sea, has some pretensions as a water-
ing-place. Only those, however, who
wish for entire quiet, and who can find
interest in the peculiarities of this un-
picturesque coast, should seek it, fd-
thoagh there are some pleasant walks
in the neighbourhood of the Mere.
Hornsea now stands on the cliff, but
there is a local rhjme which runs —
^*' Hornsea steeple, when I bniU thee
Thou wert ten miles off Barllngton,
Ten miles off Beverley,
And ten miles from tne sea."
The Church, which stands high, is
Dec. and Perp. ; the portions of the
latter period {clerestory and chancel)
very good. There has been a chantry
on the S. side, the traces of which
remam ; and under the chancel is a
crypt, occasionally used in former
days by smugglers. The church has
been restored under the care of Sir
G. G. Scott, at a cost of more than
3(K)0Z. In the market-place are the
remains of a Perp. cross.
The point of greatest interest at
Hornsea, however, is the Mere, which
closely adjoins the town, and is the
largest in the county — ^nearly 2 m.
long, 5 m. in circumference, and } m.
across at its broadest part. It is
dotted with small wooded islands,
and abounds with pike, perch, eel,
and roach. Until the Dissolution,
Hornsea belonged to St. Mary's Ab-
bey in York; but in 1260 (44th
Heniy III.) the Abbot of Meaux
claimed a nght of fishery in the S.
part of the mere. Against this claim
the Abbot of St. Mary's protested,
and it was agreed to decide the mat-
ter by combat. Both abbots pro-
vided their champions — ^more tnan
one, apparently, on either side. A
horse was then made to swim across
the mere, and stakes were fixed to
mark the boundary of the portion
claimed by the Abbot of Meaux.
The fight lasted from momine till
night, when the Champions of Meaux
were beaten, and the undisputed right
to the mere remained with the Abbot
of St. Mary s. (A remarkable illus-
tration of such a judicial combat
occurs on the brass of Bishop Wy vil
(died 1375) in Salisbury Cathedral.
Below the figure of the bishop, who
is represented above the portal of a
castle, is that of the cbampicm (in
dose-fitting jack and battle-axe), who
recovered for the see the Castle of
Sherborne, which had been alienated
since the time of Stephen.)
** Hornsea Mere is now i
some of the changes which are 1
in the old lakes cut into by the sea at
Owthome, Sandley Mere, and other
places. It is slowly filling up by
depositions of vegetable matter and
earthy sediment round the shores and
islands. .... The sea is advancing
steadily to destroy the barrier of the
mere. When that happens, a section
will be presented like what is seen
at many of the old drained lakes in
the clins of Holdemess — a hollow in
pebbly clays or sands, covered by
fine argillaceous, perhaps shelly sedi-
ments, over which peat is spread;
and, above all, the sandy, loamy, and
argillaceous accumulations which are
in daily progress." — Pkillipt,
(The church of Sigghathomet 3^m.
from Hornsea, has an £. £ng. tower
of some interest. The church was
restored in 1848. Near is 8tggle$-
ihome HaU (Sir W. Wright). The
country round is well wooded, and
picturesque for this district. Was-
sand HaU, at the W. end of the
mere — which is sometnnes called
Waesand Mere — is the seat of Heniy
Strickland Constable, Esq.)
The coast N. of Hornsea is of the
same character as that below. <* Low
cli&, occasionally diversified by
peaty deposits and shelly marls— the
Bottte 8.— Ybrik to Hull
125
heds of old lakes — continue to At-
wick, where the height of 40 ft. ia
reached, and other bcustrine depo-
sits appear. A fine elephants tusk
was foond in the cliff here."— PfeiMip*.
Atwick church is uninteresting.
Skirlington HiU, farther N., is 60 ft.
high — here a great elevation. At
Skipsea (Fop, 1812, 3 m. from Atwick,
and 5^ from Hornsea) was the Castle
of Drc^ de Beurere,tiie first Norman
lord ofHoldemess (see the present
route, anU). What seems to hare
been the mound of the keep, with
portions of a his^h circular rampart
bejond it, are the onlj traces. It
is Teiy probable that this mound
was the "motte" of a stronghold
existing here before the Conquest
The mound is known as ** Albemarle
Hin,'' and Mr. Phillips suggests that
it may have been a natural gravel
mound like the " barf ** at Brandsbur-
ton, scarped hj the Norman (or
earlier} builders. TSkipsea Brough,
the name of the Tillage below, seem
also to refer to this mound — hrough,
like barf, signifjrine a hill.) Between
the mound and the encircling ram-
part are certain marks in the turf,
said to be the footprints of a brace
of combatants, who here, at some
unknown period, fousht a duel for
the sake ot a ladj. The marks are
carefully cleared, and with some
ceremonj, at Martinmas by farm
lads on the Castle farm, who hold
that their coming year (they come
into their places at Martinmas) will
be unlucky if they neglect this ser-
vice. The church at Skipsea is
E. Eng. (nave arcades and chancel
arch) and Perp. (outer walls, clere-
stoiy, and tower^. It was completely
restored in 186(S. ** ClifEs, nowhere
exceeding 30 ft. in height, continue
by Skiraea, broken here and there
by freshwater deposits; but for the
most part, from hence to Bridlington,
these perishing cliffs show at the
bottom the amorphous boulder clay,
in the middle finer and more lami-
nated sediments, and abdve all layen
of chalk and flint gravel, variously
inclined, and accompanied by many
marks of local agitation and drift-
ing."—PAiZZtps.
The ch. of Ulrome (1 m. N. of
Skipsea) has some venr earlv portions,
and is said to date from before the
Conquest. The place preserves the
name of the Danisn Ulf (Ulfreham).
For Barnuton, 1| m. N., see
Bte. 10
ROUTE 8.
YORK TO BEVERLEY AND HULU BY
MARKET WEIQHTON — ALSO TO
SELBY.
[5 trains dally in 1^ hr. to Hull, 1 hr. to
Beverley.]
Passing the stations at Earswick,
Warthill and Holtby, there is nothing
to call for notice untU we reach
9| m. Stamford Bridge Stat.,
where the line crosses the Derwent.
Here we are dose to the scene of the
great battle (Sept 28, 1066) between
Harold of England and Harold Har-
drada of Norway, in which tiie latter
fell. There is not much to be seen
here ; but the site is of far too great
historical interest to be passed with-
out notice. After the great Nor-
wegian fleet had b^en moordd at
Route S.—Tork to Beverley.— Aldby Pa/rk
126
Riccall (Rte, 1), Harald of Norway
and his host advanced inland as far
as Gate Fulford, 2 m. S. E. of York,
where thej were met by Eadwine
and Morkere, to whom the care of
the North had been committed. The
Enelish were overpowered and driven
back into York, and the city capi-
tulated 4 days later (Sept. 14, 1066),
150 hosti^es were given to Harald
for the fidelity of the city alone.
Hostages for the whole shire were to
be given afterwards, and to be de-
livered at Stamford Bridge — a re-
moval from York having probably
been rendered necessary by a want
of provisions, since all that the banks
of the Ouse could supply must have
been exhausted. There the North-
men were encamped on both sides of
the Derwent, when Harold of Eng-
land, who had marched with won-
derful rapidity from the South,
gathering in recruits from various
districts on his way, reached York
on the morning of Monday, Sept. 25,
and at once pressed onward to Stam-
ford Bridge. He found a portion
of the Norwegian host on the right
bank of the stream, and quite un-
prepared for his onslaught. They
were driven across the stream; and
it was at this time that a nameless
Northman kept for a time the wooden
bridge over the Derwent against the
whole English army. Forty men
fell beneaui his axe, an arrow was
shot at him in vain ; but at last an
Englishman crept under the bridge
and pierced him through beneath
his corselet The English host then
passed the bridge, the battle raged
throughout the rest of the &j^
Harald of Norway and Tostig, the
traitor Earl of Northumbria, brother
of the English Harold, both fell, and
the great mass of the Northern host
at li»t lay dead on the banks of the
Derwent. Harold of England re-
turned to York, where on the follow-
itte Thuisdav the news was brou^t
to nim of William's landing ; and he
maiched thence to fight the battle of
SenlaC) or Hastings (Oct 18), in
little more than a fortnight after
Stamford Bridge. For the details
and a true history of the battle of
Stamford Bridge, see Fnemans
'Norm. Conq.,*ni. chapter 14. He
has shown that the grand description
in the Saga of Himdd Hardiada is
not to be trosted; and that the
famous offer of the English king to
his Norwegian namesake, of *< seven
feet of ground, or as much more as
he is taUer than other men,** is at
least doubtful.
The Derwent is now crossed at
Stamford by a bridge of stone. This
is not on the site of the earlier
wooden bridge, which was raised on
the stepping-stones giving name to
the place (Stane-ford). The true
position of this bridge is preserved
by local tradition, and by the evi-
dence of the course of the roads con-
verg^g towards it. The ground is
nearly level, and on the left bank of
the stream is known as "Battle
Fkts." The Wolds are visible in
the distance. It is said that the
famous exploit of the Englishman
who killed the hero of the bridge is
commemorated at Stamford Feast by
certain pies made in the fonn of a
tub or boat, like that which he may
have used for getting under the
bridge.
[The river Deruoent, north of
Stionford Bridge marks the division
between the N. and E. Ridings.
About 3 m. above Stamford Brieve
is Aldby Park (H. Darley, Esq.),
which is possibly (as Camden long
since suggested) the site of the
Roman Derventio, an old dwelling-
place of the Northumbrian kings.
It was at this "royal villa on the
Derwent *' that the faithful thegu
LUla gave his life for the Bretwalda
Edwin: and here that Eanfled, the
Bretwald's firstborn, was the first
of Northumbrian race to be received
into the fold of Christ (Beda, H. £.
ii. 9). The place is thus of great
BaiUe 8. — PockUngton,
127
interest for the student of early Nor-
thumbrian history; and Freeman
suggests that, as a house of the
later earls, it may have been the
head-quarters of Haiald Haidrada
before Stamford Bridge. A mound
surrounded by a fosse remains in
AMb^ Park, and probably marks
the site of the ancient dwellmg (see,
however, the present route, po«<, Lon-^
deAorough. The site of Derventio
has by some been placed there, — by
others at Malton, Rte 12.) The park
itself is well wooded, and commands
views of the Derwent.]
12^ m. Fangfo88 Stat. Fan^foss
and Wilberfoss (the latter 1 m. S. of
the Stat, and on the high road from
York to Market Weighton) are vil-
lages on a tributary of the Derwent.
'The latter place is of some interest
from havinf given name to the family
of Wilbernmce, whose estates here
were sold in 1710.
16S m. Poekliiurion Stat. This
is a market town (I*op. 6584. Inn :
the Feathers), witii a ch. of some
interest, of which the tower is con-
spicuous from the station. The
nave is E. Eng., with a Peip. clere-
storr. The chancel was much altered
in the Perp. period. It has a chapel
opening from it on the N. side which
is E. Eng. or late Transition.
Renoark in this chapel, and on the
S. side of the nave, the beak sculp-
ture at the intersections of arcn-
monldings — an early indication. The
W. tower arch is Perp. and very lofty,
with sculptures of heads alternating
with bola leafage. At the east end
of the N. chapd is a monument for
Bobert Denison of KUnworth Percy,
died 1829, erected by his son, who
died in 1862. Above, and under
glass, is some very fine Flemish
carving. Here is also a curious
moDumeot for Thomas Dolman, a
J.P. under Elizabeth, *<De selectiori
illo numero qui volgo Quorum dicnn*
tur,** d. 1589. He is represented on
his deathbed, his wife kneeling at a
desk. The monument was restored
in 1850. The ch. was restored and
some stained windows inserted in
the same year. In the ch.-yd. is a
lofty cross (the shaft is new) with
gabled head, having on one side the
Crucifixion, on the other a Trinity —
the Holy Father holding the cruci-
fied Saviour in his arms. There is
an inscription, ''Orate pro anima
Johannis Soteby." The ch. tower,
of 3 stages, is Perp. There is a free
grammar school at Pocklington, the
property belonging to which was
originaily left to a guild founded by
Jo& Dohnan, Archdn. of Suffolk,
whose family long held the manor.
On the dissolution of guilds, temp.
Hen. VIII., the school received this
propertv. and the revenue is now
about 10002. a year.
[The visitor with time at his dis-
posal may be advised to drive or
walk across the countiy from Pock-
lington to Malton, or from Pockling-
ton to Fimber, where is a station on
the rly. between Malton and Drif-
field. In this manner he will see
something of a very peculiar comer
of Yorkshire, the district lying im-
mediately under the Wolds; and if
he go to Fimber, may visit a cha-
ractoistic portion of the Wolds
themselves, and inspect some of the
churches built or restored by Sir
Tatton Sykes. The distance from
Pocklington to Funber is about
14 m. Prom Pocklington by Kirkby
Underdale to Malton is at least
18 m. But as the roads are intricate
and sometimes bad, and as there
may be sundry diversions from them
in order to see churches, &c., one
whole day should be allowed for the
expedition.
KUnvfick Peroy lies L of the road
on leaving Pocklinetoo. Within the
grounds of the HaU is a small Noim,
db., with modem carved oak staUs
and stained windows. The road
128
Boute S.—KUnmck Percy — Bugth&t]^.
runs under the Wolds to Bishop's
Wiltonj where is a Church (ded. to
St. Edith) which should be seen.
The original building was late
Norm., with loftv chancel arch and
fine S. door. The aisles, and pro-
bably the W. tower, were added by
Abp. Zouch (1342-1352). The ch.
has been thoroughly restored by
J, L. Pearson, at the sole expense of
Sir Tatton Sykes. The stained glass
is by Clayton and BeU. The roofs
are throughout new, and have been
most elaborately coloured and deco-
rated. All this work is very good,
rich but quiet. The Norm. S.
door deserves special notice. It has
a double roll moulding with orna-
ments cut in the soffit, so that
there is apparently no place for the
door -hinges. Remark among the
ornaments on the S. side the Abp.^s
cross, with pointed staff. The ch.
and Tillage stand picturesquely, in a
long valley with wooded hills above.
The country here is much broken
and varied, and the rich wood which
clothes it contrasts sharply with the
bare wolds under which it lies. It
consists of greensand, grits, and
Oxford clay, descending into the marls
and sandstones of the plain of York.
1 m. beyond Bishop s Wilton the
old high road from York to Brid-
lington is crossed; and a cross road
leads through a wooded, park-like
district, to Kirby UnderddUy IJ m.
Here is a small ch. on the slope of
the dale, in a tossed and broken
country. The earliest — probably
pre-Norm.— ch. here was without
aisles, and had an apse, the founda-
tions of which have been found.
Then came Trans.-Norm. arcades
and aisles — ^the wall of the older
ch. showing as a step on the S. side.
The lower part of the tower has her-
ring-bone work. The walls of the
earner ch. seem to have been retained
and pierced for arches when the
Trans, work was done. On the N.
side ate traces of a clerestory. All
the ch. is in admirable order, and
has been carefully restored by Street,
at the cost of Lord Halifax, and
the rector, the Rev. T. J. Mon-
son.
;;; Dr, ThirlwdU, Bp. of St. David's,
was for some time rector of K. Un-
derdale, and here wrote his < History
of Greece.'
(IJ m. W. is Bugthorpe, where the
ch. has Norm, portions, and is worth
a visit.)
(a) Cross-roads leads by Bury-
thorpe to SiaUon, about 10 m. froni
K. Underdale. The views from the
high ground over the plain of York
are singularly fine, with the great
towers of the Minster rising as a
landmark in the midst of the scene.
The tourist who follows the cross-
road should make a point of turning
off 1. and visiting AcJdam Wold,
above a village of the same name.
This is a famous " meet " of the Wold
hunt ; and a deep hollow valley sud-
denly opens to the lower country, —
one of the steep-sided hollows so
characteristic of chalk and of the
wolds. The scene here is very fine
and peculiar, and a vast extent of
country is commanded. That from
Leavening (pron. Leevening) Brow,
a little beyond this point, is de-
scribed in Rte. 11. The road here
descends : rt is Birdsall (Lord IVIid-
dleton, see Rte. 11). The village
of Burythorpe ^ch. modem) is passed
through. Langton Hall (Mrs. Nor-
cliffe^ lies rt; and the road, aeain
crossmg a rise of wold, enters Midton
(Rte. 12).
(h) The Bridllneton road will lead
from K. Underdale to Fimber Stat.
(6 m.), and passes over the Wolds
through Fridaythorpei vrhere is a
small Norm. ch. of the usual Wold
tjrpe. It will be better, however, to
dnve or walk from K. Underdale to
ThixendaJei where the wold scenery
is very chaxactenstic, and where is a
Souie S.—ShipU>n.
129
small new church (G. E, Street, aich),
of Dec character, DTult by Sir Tatton
Sjkes. The view from the ch.-yd. is
strikinf . The road winds through
the \3ley to Fimber, The ch. of
Fimber (nave, chancel, and W. tower)
is of earljr Dec character, and has
been restored and elaborately de-
corated by Street From the ch.-yd.
the woods of Sledmere are seen N.
For a general notice of the Wolds
see Bte. 11. The high ground passed
cQ this excursion commands wide
wold prospects, extending to the sea,
and haTing the memorial tower of
Sir Tatton Sykes as a hmdmark.}]
Beyond PockUngton the country
becomes richer and more wooded:
L ia seen the ridge of the Wolds, ex-
tending in a long line towards the
N.E. The rly. approaches very near
these chalk ** cliffs " at (19 m^Nun-
Iwmholme, or Burnby Stat. The ch.
of Bumby, with Norm, portions, is
seen L Nunbumholme is the rectory
of the Bev. F. O. Morris, well known
for his ' History of British Birds.'
[4 m. N. from Nunbumholme
Station is Warier Priory (Lord Mun-
caster), in one of the prettiest of the
Wold valleys. The Priory was
founded for Augnstinian canons in
1132, but no ancient portions exist.
The present house has much the cha-
racter of a French ch&teau, with
steep roofs and lucamee. The gar-
dens are fine and the valley is well
wooded. In the village is a good
modem church (Haberfidd, arcUt),
built by the late Lord Muncaster in
1862.3 At
21 m. the JSkipUm and Londes-
borough Station is reached.
Shipton has a small Norm. Church
of some interest (There is also a
Norm, ch., of nearly the same date,
and of more importance, *' restored ^ in
18G0, at Ha/utoiiy 3 m. from Shipton,
[TorksWre.]
on the York road. The windows
have been filled with stained glass.
These early churches indicate the
antiquity of the settlements here, on
the line of Boman road. See pott)
The arduBologist should here leave
the railway and walk through the
park of Londesborough to Gk)odman-
ham, whence he may descend to
Market Weighton. The round mH
be between 3 and 4 miles.
An avenue of trees, said to have
been pUmted at the suggestion of
David Garrick, leads from the ham-
let of Thorpe-in-the- Street, close to
Shipton (the name indicates the line
of a Boman road running from York,
under the Wolds, to the Humlxn:),
to the site of the former house of
Londesborough. This was pulled
down by the late Duke of Devon-
shire, and nothing now remains but
the terrace on which it stood, from
whence a magnificent view (looking
S. to the Humber, and W. towards
the Vale of York) is commanded.
(There is a small modem house
called LondeAorough Lodge, toward
the N. end of the park.) The estate
was long the property of the Clif-
fords, and passed from them— by the
marriage of the Lady Elizabeth
Clifford, daughter of the last Earl
of Cumberland, 1635, to Bichard
Earl of Cork and Burlington — ^to the
Boyles, whence it came to the Dukes
of Devonshire. Part of the house
was built by the third Earl of Bur-
lington, the friend of Pope and
Garrick — ^who also built Burlington
House in London. The estate was
sold by the duke for 470,0002. to
George Hudson, and was purchased
from him for the same sum by the
late Lord Londesborough ^Lord Al-
bert Conyngham), who took his title
(1849) from it
Londesborough Church closely ad-
joins the park. Several of the Clif-
ford's are interred here ; besides many
Boyles, including Pope's friend, the
third Earl of Turlington. Thomas
K
180
Soute 8.— York to Bei^erlej^Londetboraugh.
Wentworth, afterwards the great Earl
of Straffoid, was here married to Lady
Henrietta Clifford.
There was prohably a Boman villa
at or near Londesborongh ; since Bo-
man coins and other relics have been
freqnently found in the park and
gardens. (This Tilla was afterwards,
perhaps, appropriated bj the kings
of Northumberland — and the con-
ferences of Edwin with Panlinus,
maj, perhaps, have been held here. See
|ios^ and the present roote, ante,
Mdby.) Many fme old trees are scat-
tered over the park,— through which
the tourist should walk to the site of
the old house, descend into the val-
ley below it, and then mount the op-
posite hill, up which the park extends.
From the top of this hill he will look
down on the church of 6roo(2mafi%am,
^no doubt the ^* Godmundingaham "
of Bede, and the scene of the conver-
sion of Edwin of Northumbria to
Christianity (a.d. 625), one of the
most remarkaole events in the early
history of Yorkshire.
Paulinus— -consecrated bishop by
Justus, 4th .Aitdibp. of Canterbury-^
had accompanied into Northumbria
Ethelbursa, the Christian daughter
of Ethdbert of Kent, on her
mairiage to Edwin of Northumbria
(A.D. 625). Edwin was still a pagan,
but was not without Christian ten-
dencies. At his royal villa on the
Derwent he was suddenly attacked
by Eumer, a messenger from Cwic-
hefan of Wessex^ and his life was
only saved by his thegn Lilla, who
interposed his own body between the
iriny and the assassin. On the same
nigKt (Easter-eve, 626) Ethelbuiga
bore a daughter, Eanfled. The kii^,
says Bede, returned thanks to his
gods ; but Paulinus, who was present,
gave hanks to Christ, and assured
Edwin Uiat liie queen's safety was
owing to his intercession. Edwin
promised that, if Paulinus by his
prayers should procure him the vic-
tory in the war he was abont to
imdeitake against Cwichelm, he
would became a Christian. He was
victorious ; and on his return received
much instruction from Paulinus, but
would not consent to be baptiied
until Paulinus reminded him of a
mysterious passage in his former life.
A c^erence was then held, appa-
rently at the villa on the Derwent,
in which Coifi, the king*s chief priest, I
declared that, although he had faith-
fully served his gods, they had been
of little help to mm, and that he was
ready to bear of a more powerful
deity. He was followed by another
chieftain, whose words, as reported
by Bede, have been thus venined by
Wordsworth : —
*• Man's life is like a aparrow, mighty king I
That, atealtaig in, while by the fire yon alt
Hooaed with r^dng firienda, la aeen to flit
Safe from the atonna, in oomfiart tariTing.
Here it did enter— there, on haaty wing
Fliea ontk and paasea on fhim cold to cold ;
Bnt whence it came we know not, nor
behold
Whither it goea— e'en soch that tianaient
thing
The human aool; not utterly unknown
While in the bo4y lodgedi her wann
abode—
But Dram what world ahe came, what woe
or weal
On her departure waita, no tongue hath
ehown;
Thla myateiy if the atranger can reveal,
Hla be a welcome cordially beaiow'd !"
Coifi then desired to hear Paulinus
himself ; and after he had listened to
him for some time, he pronounced
himself read^ to embrace the new
faith, to which the greater part of
the king's thegns were evidently
inclined, and suggested liiat the
temple and altars should at once
be destroyed. Edwin agreed; and
Coifi, declaring it was ri^t that he,
who had been the chief
of the false gods, should be the '
to profane ueir temples, demanded
arms and a horse from the king (for
the priests were not allowed to bear
weapons, or to ride, except on a
mare), and, riding to the temple, shot
against it the lance which he carried
m his hand. The people, says Bede,
thou^ him mad; but ne followed
BoiUe 8. — Londe^boroagh.
131
iro hk deed bj ordering the burning
of the temple with all its enclosores.
The "place of idols " was still shown
in Bede's time, at Godmnndingaham
(probably the ** ham ** or home of the
uodmondings — sons of Godmund).
Edwin himself was baptized at York
(see York, Bte. 1) on the Easter
Daj (April 12, 627) following that
on whui his daughter EanflS had
been bom.
It seems probable that the royal
Tilla of Edwin and the heathen
temple were at no great distance
from each other. Mr. Wright sug-
gests that the first may have be^
at Londesborongh, which was close
to the Boman road, and where, as
we have seen, there are traces of a
Roman villa. (Bnt on the other hand,
Bede expressly asserts that the
"viUa regalis was *Mnxta amnem
Derveiitionem " near the Derwent,
which Aldby is, and Londesborongh
is not See the present ronte, onis,
JZdby.) The temple was certainly at
Goodnianham — also near the same
Boman road. The site was in all
probability that on which the ch. now
stands — a rising groond in the middle
of the village, 'niere are some traces
of a vallum enciroling the ch.-yd. ; and
ffothing is more likely than that the
site of the great temple diould have
been CSunstianized by the erection
of a ch. on it There are some ex-
tensive and strange-looking earth-
works in a field abont 100 yuds S. of
the ch., on the other side of the rec-
torr, which have sometimes been
lOMLed upon as the remains of the
temple; but lir. Boach Smith, who
Itts G8x«fully examined them, pro-
noonces them to have been caused by
a modem chalk-pit Drake (the his-
totian of York) had made excava-
tioBS on the same spot, and had come
to ttie same conclusion. The Cliwreh
of Goodmanham has E. Norm, por-
tioiis. The chancel arch is depressed ;
and the ci^itals of its shafts are of
somewhat unusual desisn. The
■Mia aieade is Hkwdm, Momi. The
cid font (rude £. Norm.) is certainly
not that in which Edwin was bap-
tized. This was Stukeley's sugges-
tion. But the baptism took pLice
at York, and no doubt by immersion.
Stone fonts, such as tlus at Good-
manham (which is hexagonal, plain
and rude\ could not have come into
use until England had been com-
pletely Christianized.
The Wolds at the back of Londes-
borongh and Goodmanham are
covered with sepulchral tumuli.
From Goodmanham the tourist may
walk down the hill (about 1 m.) to
(23 m. from York bv rly.) Marhelt
WdghUm Junct Stat (the name, pos-
sibly marks its position on the Boman
road — Weg-tun — the town on the
way). Pop. 4835. Inn: Londes-
borongh AXTDB, The ch., restd. (E.
Eng. and Perp. with a l^ans. Norm,
west tower), is of little interest; and
unless the visitor cares to make in-
quiries as to the exact biri^lace of
William Bradley, the "Yorkshire
Giant'* (7 ft 9 in. high, 27 stone in
weight at 19), bom in this town in
1792, and died in 1820, agMl 83, he
need not linger in Market Weighton.
A great sheep fair (at which 60,000
sheep are sometimes collected) is hdd
here in September. A navigable canal
(10 m. long) has been made from the
Humber, near Fhixfleet, to within
1} m. of the town, and serves the
double purpose of transport and
drainage of the fens.
The countzy round ICarket Weigh-
ton is rich in grave mounds, many of
which have b^n explored by Canon
Greenwell. At Arrat, 3 m. on the
road to Beverleyr, are many barrows,
two of which yielded the remarkable
chariot wheels and horse furniture
now in the museum of the Yorkshire
Philosophical Society (see Bte. 1).
k2
183
Bouie S.—York to Beverleij^Bvbwiih.
{MatTcet Weighton to SeWy lUy.
runs S.E. to Selby (17 m.) through
a flat countiy of little interest, l^e
only places on this line that call for
notice are Holme and Buhunth,'}
Passing the atation at HarsweU
Oaie (the small ch. of Harswell was
bnilt in 1871) we reach
5 m. Boime on Spalding Moor Stat;
80 called to distinguish it from Holme
on the Wolds, N.E. of Market
Weighton. The estate of Holme be-
longed to the tried loyalist and faith-
ful general of Charles I., Sir Marma-
dnke Langdale, in whose family it
long remained : the Hall is now the
property of H. Stourton, Esq. The
ch., a very marked feature in this
low count^, stands on an eminence
commanding extensive views over a
tract of knd now fat and well culti-
vated, in consequence of drainage;
though in former times a labyrinth
of morasses, so that a cell was esta-
blished by certain members of the
great families of Vavafour and Con-
^able, and two monks maintained in
it to guide travellers on their way.
Not far from the ch. is a tall beacon,
with two branching irons near the
top, to support fire-grates; it was
frequently used to signal alarms
during Ihe revolutionary war, and
communicated with beacons on 8 other
hills, Bainton, Wilton, and Huntley,
each giving a name to a division of
Harthill Wapentake.
There is a Stat, at FoggaUiorpe ;
and
10^ m. from Market Weighton
the rly. crosses the river Derwent at
Bubmth Stat. The Ckareh here
seen rt. (a "medietv** of which
belonged to Byland Abbey from 1369
until the Dissolution) is of some
interest. The chancel arch is very
good Ute Norm, with enriched shafts
and caps, and an unusual arcaded
moulding surrounding the outer order.
The piers and arches of the nave are
£. E., as are probably the walls of the
chancel, in which are inserted 2 Dec.
windows (S. side) and a good Perp.
E. window. The tower is Perp. and
has originally been op^i to the ch.
Some helmets and mantling belong-
ing to the Vavasours of Sfelboum
hang in the chancel. It is greatly to
be wished that a hideous brick school-
room, attached to the N. side of the
chancel, and blocking up two win-
dows, should be swept away.
Bubwith, Pop. 1748. was the birth-
place of Nicholas de Bubwith, 9p. of
Wells in the early part of the 15&
cent, whose beautiful chantry remains
in the nave of his cathedral.
[A short distance up the Derwent,
on the 1. bank, is AughUm, remark-
able as the home of Robert Aske,
leader in the " PUgrimage of Grace,"
1536. (See Froude, H. E., vol. iii.,
and Introd. to this Handbook.) The
ch. has a low Perp. tower, and con-
tains some memorials of the Askes.
The ask or newt — the rebus of
"Aske'* — is on the ch. tower and
buttresses ; together with their shield
of arms (or, 3 bars az.), and the in-
scription *< Christcmher, le secound
fitz de Robart Ask Chr. oblier ne doy,
A.D. 1536."
6} m. from Bubwith the railway
reaches
17 m.i9c%. (SeeRte. 1.3]
[For the road from Market Weigh-
ton to Brough (9 m.) on the Selby
and Hull rly., see Rte. 6.]
The BaH to Beverley proceeds
through a somewhat uninteresting
country, to
Kiplingeotes, where is a small sta-
tion. (The ch. of Goodmiuoham is
passed a short distance 1. soon after
Baute 8. — Cherrtf Burton — Beverley.
18S
leaving 1£ Weighton.) There is
again a <<a<t(m at
Cherru Burton Stat., where the rlj.
crosses the old high road from Bever-
lej to Malton. (For this road, and
the places of interest on it, see post :
exc from Beverleir.) The oh. and
riUage of Cheny Burton lie a short
distance below the station, rt. The
ch. was rebuilt, 1852-3. The famons
Bonner was for some time rector
here; and at Chenj Burton (then
known as North Barton) St John of
Beverley was bom (see pod). The
rlv. soon crosses the hi^h road to
Btiffield; the towers of tiie Minster
come into view; and we reach the
station at
Beverleu {lnn$: Beverley Arms,
comfortable ; Holdemess H.). This is
an old-fashioned market town (Pop.
15,507) with a "staid, respectable
aspect^ as if aware of its claims
to consideration." These claims are
founded on its noble ^Minster, St.
Mai7*8 Chnrch is the second object of
interest here.
Beverley is no doubt a place of
considerable antiquity. It is probable
that its later name — Beverley — re-
cords (as in similar instances elsewhere
in England) a colony of beavers,
which had established themselves here
on the Hull river. The importance
and reputation of Beverley, however,
are due entirely to its paixon saint,
''St John of Beverley," a short
sketch of whose life will best be read
here.
The future saint was bom in the
latter half of the 7th cent, of noble
parents, at Cherry Burton, in the
East Biding (see ihe present route,
jKM<), and was early intrusted to the
care of Abp. Theodore of Canterbury,
who educated him, and gave him lus
name of " John." Oxford has claimed
him as her first Master of Arts, and
bis figure as a " fellow " was in one of
the ^vnndows of the chapel of Univer-
sity College ; but, says Fuller, " see-
ing the solemnity of graduating was
then unknown, a judicious Oxonian
rejecteth it as a fiction " — ^not to add
that St John had been dead nearly
a cent before the birth of Alfred, the
traditional founder of the university.
It is mora certain that he was the
pupil of St Hilda at Streonshal
(Whitby). In 687 he was conse-
crated to the bishopric of Hexham,
having lived for some time before in
a hermitage at Hameshow on the
Tyne ; and on the death of Bosa, in
705, he was translated from Hexham
to York. Amongst other good works
in Yorkshire, he established a monas-
tery at " Inderawood," where a little
ch., dedicated to St John, already
existed. He enlarged this ch., and
settled here a company of religious
persons of both sexes, as was then
usual. In 718 he resigned the see of
York, and retired to this monastery,
where he was received by the Abbot
Bercthune, who narrated to Bede the
many miracles of St John which the
latter has recorded in his history
(H. E., V. 2-6). St John died here
May 7, 721, and was buried in St
Peter 8 Porc^, a chapel attached to
thech.
Beverley thus became one of the
three religious centres of Yorkshire—
rthe other two were York and Bipon).
The reputation of 'Mi bons Johans
. . . celui ki gist a Beverli" spread
widely throughout England. Miracles
were performed at his tomb. In 1037
he was solemnly canonized by Pope
Benedict DC, and (with the excep-
tion perhaps of St Cuthbert at Dur-
ham) no saint was regarded with
greater reverence north of the Hnm-
ber than St John. He took his place
with the great champions of Christen-
dom:—
■'Come ye fh>in the east, orcome ycfhnnthe
weeu
Or briDg relics from over the sear—
Or come ye fh>m the shrine of St James
the divlnub
Or 8L John of Beverley ?"
Athelstane, on his way to Scotknd,
134
Boute 8. — Beverley.
prajed before the tomb, and promised
the ch. manj privileges and gifts if
he were succwsful, leaving behind
him his knife (cultellnm) as a pledge.
He carried with him the banner of
St.^ John, and on his return, vic-
torious, offered his sword— the sword
he had wielded in the great battle of
Brunanbnrgh — at the altar; fomided
here a college of secular canons (if,
indeed, it should not rather be said
that he confinned the original founda-
tion), added much land to the endow-
ment, and gave the ch. the right of
sanctuary, which it enjoyed until the
Reformation (see post). The tradi-
tional words ot Athelstane's grant are
recorded in a tablet in the Minster
(see pod).
The Confessor was a benefactor to
the College. William the Conqueror
(see Alured of Beverley, whose state-
ment is of some value, since he wrote
early in the following century. — Free-
man, however (* Norm. Conquest,' iv.
289), suggests that the story ot the
preservation of Beverley is a legend.
The authentic records of the Conquest
give no hint that any exception to
the harrying was made in any part of
Northumbria)-— and Stephen both re-
frained (it is said they were mira-
culously prevented) from ravaging its
lands. King John visited the shrine,
and Edward I., after "waking a
night" before it, carried off the
sacred banner to the wars in Scotland,
as Athelstane had done before him.
(It had before been one of the banners
— the other two were those of St.
William of York and St. Wilfred of
Bipon — which gave name to the
battle of the Standard in 1138. See
Northallerton, Bte. 16.) Henry IV.
visited Beverley; and after the vic-
tory of Agincourt (Oct. 25, 1415, the
feast of the translation of St John of
Beverley, as well as that of SS. Cris-
pin and Crispinian), Henry V. made
a pilgrimage to the shrine (from
which, on the day of the battle, holy
(nl is said to have flowed " like drops
of sweat '*) with his queen ; and Abp.
Chichele ordered that the dar of
St John's death (IdDay 7), as well as
that of his translation, should hence-
forth be observed wiili increased cere-
mony. Offerings of considerable value
were made at the shrine by these
royal visitors, as well as by tiie host
of ordinary pilgrims. (The annual
value of the oblations was about lOO
marks.) At the Dissolution the
revenue of the College was 598Z.
The town of Beverley received its
first charter from Abp. Thurstan
(1100), and was of some importance
as a port (on the Hull river, which
was open for navigation before the
rise of Kingston. Beverley had many
ships). The town was greatly under
the influence of the Percys, whose
Castle of Leconfield (see post) was
2} m. distant; and numerous offer-
ings are recorded from the "Go-
vernors " of Beverley to their power-
ful neighbours. Charles I. fixed his
head-quarters at Beverley (April 23,
1642) before the outbreak of the Civil
War, and during the ticklish negotia-
tions for the surrender to him of HuU
and the war stores it contained. He
returned hither on the night, when
the gates of that fortress were shut in
his face by Sir John Hotham. He
remained here watching the siege of
Hull and the landing of arms and
stores sent to him by his queen up
the Humber. One Wm. Cuthbert of
Beverley was a chief witness at the
King's trial on the charge of levying
war. Hotham's subsequent treachery
to the Parliament being found out, he
fled hither, but was seized by his own
nephew, Col. Boynton, and sent to
Iiondon, where he was executed on
Tower-hiU. The place had fallen
into the hands of tne Hothams, and
afterwards (1643), when the royalist
Marquis of Newcastle advanced a^nst
Hull (then held by Sir Thomas Fair-
fax), Beverley was abandon^ as un-
tenable, and was plundered by the
King's troops, whilst all the cattle in
the neighbourhood were driven to
Bade ^—Beverley: Wor&ie$y Mhuier.
13S
Tcik. Hie pfamder is aid to haye
exceeded aO,OOOL
Amongthe ''WociliieB'' (tf Bever-
Inr aie Aimndf Treasnrar of the
Cnnreh of St Jobai, whose < Annals,'
ending with the reign of Heniy L,
were edited by Heune in 1716, and
are of coninderable Talae ; Johu
Aleodcy Bp. sDocessivelj of Bochester,
Wovcester, and Ely (died 1500), in
which last cathedral his superb
chantiT remains; Jchn Fukert the
learned and unfortunate Bp. of Bo-
chester, bom here 1459, beheaded
1535 ; and Jokn Green, Bp. of Ely,
bom 1706, died 1779. Bps. Aloock,
Fisher, and Green, all receiyed their
fiist education in the Grammar School
of Beyerley.
The first point of interest in Beyer-
ley is of Gomse the *3ft«Mter, occupy-
ing the site of the church of St. John
found here, and enlarged by St. John
of Beyerley, but now dedicated to the
Blessed Viigin. Whateyer the nature
of St. John's foundation may haye
been, that which was established by
Athelstane (a.d. 938), and which con-
tinued to the Beformation, was not
UMmastie, althon^ the name ** Min-
ster," *' Monasterium," was always in
use here, as at York. It was a col-
lege of secular canons, presided over
by a Proyost (added by Abp. Thomas
of York, 1070). ITie Proyost of
Beyerley was a personage of great
dignity, a feudal loid as well as a
spiritual. Among the holders of the
office was Thomas Becket, afterwards
the sainted Abp. of Canterbury.
The single recorded fact bearing on
the architectural history of Beyerley
Minster is the burning of the ch. on
the night following St. Matthew's
day (Sept 21), 1188, the last year of
Heniy IL Whateyer amount of de-
struction may haye been wrought by
this fire, it is certain that no part of
the existing ch. is of earlier date.
The plan comprehends naye, with
aialea and N. porch, great tnuuept
and W. aisles, choir with
or eastern truisqpt
with £.
aisles, a
with eastern aisle, and an eastern
Lady-chapel projecting beyond this
transept The whole building east-
ward qI the naye (with the exception
qI one or two additions and insertions
to be afterwards noticed) is £. Eng.,
dating from the first half of the 13th
cent Thero seems to haye been a
considerable interval between the
completion of this portion and the
commencement of the naye. This is
late Dec (curyilinear), circa 1850.
The N. porch and the great W. front
are Perp., and date from the latter
part of the same century.
The Minster had fallen into an
almost ruinous state at the be^^inning
of the last cent A subscription was
then made for its repair. Nicholas
Hawkesmoor was appointed archi-
tect ; and the King, George I., besides
a grant of money, eaye materials
from the ruins of St Mary's at York,
which were brought to fieyerley by
water.
The ch. is built throu^out of
Tadcaster stone. The wholelilinBter,
since 1867, has undergone a gradual,
but true restoration, at the hands of
Sir G. G. Scott The roofs of both
naye and choir haye been decorated
in gold and colour, the oriffinal
colouring, some portions of which
were found, haying been followed as
far as possible. Some windows of
stained glass by Hardman haye been
inserted in the naye; and the Min-
ster has recoyered an order and rich-
ness well in harmony with its noble
architecture.
The visitor should pass at once to
the eastern portion of the ch., since it
is the earliest in date, and its general
design has been followed in the nave.
In uie ereat transept, as well as in
the choir and parts beyond it, the
arrangement is the same^— each bay
consisting of a main arch, resting on
clustered piers ; a triforial space auooye
it, without a passa^, but enriched by
an arcade of trefoiled arches, resting
126
Boute 8. — Beverley Wnster,
on slender dnsteied shifis detadied
from the wall, which cut an inner
arcade of pointed arches sapported by
short plain shafts, — in the tTmpaniini
is a quatrefoU ; — and a clerestory,
with passage, in which the sharply-
pointed an^es are sapported on len-
der marble shafts. The roof is
throngfaont E. K, and the Taoiting
shaft rises between each bay from a
bracket jost above the intersection of
the main arches. The shaft is tripled
at the string nnder the triforimn.
The piers ''exhibit a dnster of
ei^ bold masBire columns, suited
to the position they occupy, and the
wei^t they hare to snstain. For the
sake of variety, those which face car-
dinally are romid, the alternate ones
being brought to an edge ; and many
of the round columns have the Tertictd
fillet." The triforial space above,
with its intersecting arches, may be
compared with simikr arcades in the
choir of Lincoln Cathedral (the work
of St Hugh, 1186-1200, and no
doubt the origmal type, since it is
more than probable tnat St Hughes
was the first E. £. work in the king-
dom). Both triforimn and derestoiy
are much enriched with the dog-tooth
moulding ; and numerous smaU shafts
of Purbeck marble occur throughout
the whole work. All the original
windows in the E. E. portion of the
Minster are lancets. The doors in the
fronts of the transepts have semi-
circular heads without, and are nearly
flat-headed within, each being sub-
divided into two pointed arches.
"The small space which could be
allowed to the door, in order to admit
of the fine composition of windows
above, will satisfactorily account for
the use of this fonn, which is no mark
of an early date or imperfectly de-
veloped style. It constantly occurs
in buildings of advanced E. E. cha-
racter, especially in the North.'* —
J. L, Petit, from the size of the
pieis at the intersection of the great
transept, it is evident that a central
tower wu originally intended. The
N. front of the transep had an in-
clination of 4 ft beyond its base at
the beginning of the last cent, when
it was restored to its vertical posi-
tion ; " perfaape," says Ur. Petit, "' as
wonderful an instance of mechanical
skill as any we have on reoori.'* The
restoration vras effected by a Toik
carpenter, named Thornton, by means
of a huge frame of timber for screw-
ing up tiie gable end at once. The
wdls of boSi transepts and of choir-
aisles are lined below the windows
with a foliated arcade enriched with
dog-tooth, and resting on Purbeck
sh^ with foliaged capitals.
The chioir'tcnen of oak, carved by
a Beverley man, was designed by-
Scott, and is good of its class. Within
the cAotr, the visitor should remark
the singular piers at the intersection
of the lesser or eastern transept
(adjoining the altar). They are '' of
a totally different design from those
of the principal transept, and, indeed,
every other part of the building.
Instead of being carried up in con-
tinuous lines from the base to the
spring of the arch, they are broken
by horizontal strings into a series of
stages, which project forwards as they
ascend, and are terminated by a trun-
cated cluster of columns, having a
capital similar in its diaracter to those
in the other parts of the edifice.**-^
J. X. PetU,
The rialU of the choir deserve care-
ful attention. They have been much
altered, and the lower portion, with
the misereres, are probably eariier than
the superb mass of tab^made work
which rises above theoL The pro-
jecting brackets for figures (no longer
existing), which form the top of uie
first stage of the canopy, are unusuaL
There are very peculiar and expres-
sive heads in the canopy itself, some
of which are evidently additions, and
represent Georgian divines attired in
wig and band. The tabemade work
itself dates from the best period, the
begiiuung of the 16th cent
Boute 8. — Beverley Mneier: Percy Shrine,
187
Fflling the aicli between the choir
and the N.£. transept, is the famous
^Perey sJkrtne, one of the most beau
tifol compositions of the Decorated
period remaining in England, and
6Jthongh the monumental effigy has
disappeared) wonderfully perfect in
all its details. It is generally as-
signed to Idonea, wife o! Henry, 2nd
Lofd Percy (died 1965). With this
date, howerer, the chiuracter of the
monnment agrees sufficiently well.
The canopy is a lofty gable, terminat-
ing N. and S. in a magnificent finial
of early kail leafage. An ogee arch
rises within this gable, and supports
(cm tiie S. side) a bracket, on which
is a figfure of the Saviour, holding a
soul in his robe. The head of uob
figure is on a lerel with the point of
the gable, below the finial. Spring-
ing frooi tiie sides of the main canopy
are grotesque figures supporting
biaekets, on which are angels with
^eir hands raised in prayer towards
our Lord. The gable and the inner
arch are crocketed with the richest
foliage. The inner arch is foliated,
with angels at the points of the folia-
tions, and in the spandrels figures in
low reli^ of knights and ladies bear-
ing diields, charged with the Percy
anna and quarterings. The details on
the N. side of the shrine are nearly
the same as on the S. At the top is
the Saviour in Majesty, and the angels
at the sides seem to have borne the
instrmnents of the Passion, which are
mntikted. All these details should
be most carefully noticed. The mag-
nificence of the foliage (vine-leaves
and dustera on the S. side, and hazel
with its nuts on the N.) is extreme ;
and the sculptured figures, especially
the angels, are unusually fine and
solemn. The vaulting under the
canOTy has large bosses of foliage, and
angels with musical instruments. At
the £. end two angels support a coro-
net Against the £. wall are two
brackets for figures of saints, one of
which has a pair of fighting dragons,
verf finely lendoed; the otiaer, much |
mutilated, shows the soldiers casting
lots for our Lord's coat A mutilated
bracket with the eagle of St John (?)
and a saint, remains W. The span-
drels of the arch are filled on the
inside wilh foliage, angels, and a
Nativity (N.), and with angels and
St GaUierine with her wheel (S.).
This superb monument was con-
structed at the same time as the nave
(see poBl) of the ch. was building,
and its sculpture should be compared
with that of the nave-aisles. It may
fairly be presumed that the great
works at York Minster, where the
nave and chapter-house had not long
been completed, not only brought
able workmen into this part of the
kingdom, but assisted in fomung a
native school of sculptors, to whom
we may attribute the JDecoiated work
at Beverley.
The AUar-wremi ^^ of niches and
tabernacle work, originally Dec, was
entirely restored (or rather rebuilt)
by a Mr. Ck>mins in 1826. A stair-
case turret at the head of the Percy
shrine, and of the same date, leads to
the broad top of this screen, which
probably served as a music gallery,
like that formerly in a similar position
in York Minster (see Rte. 1\ On
the wall of the staircase is a oracket
with a king and bishop (Athelstane
and St John), and near it a musician
vrith a bagpipe. At the back of the
screen are three arches on clustered
shafts, above which are richly-cano-
pied niches, and a frieze of minstrels
with their instruments. The whole
screen resembles the Percy shrine in
its details, and may possibly have
been the gift of that great family.
Its eastern side is terribly disfigured
by .17th cent monuments for the
Wartons of Beverley Park.
The roof of the choir has been
coloured partly from indications of
former decoration, partly from Scott's
designs. The bay over the altar, be*
138
Bouie 8. — Beverley SRmter: Lady Ohapd.
tween the eastern tnunepts, is covered
with scroll patterns, among which
are medallions with figores of saints,
and of the fonr Evangelists.
The narrow eastern transept was
no doubt imitated from the plan of
the choir which Abp. Boger (1154-
1191) had constructed in York Min-
ster (see Rte. 1). The Lady Chapel
projects E. beyond these transepts,
and the beauty of its E. E. work
deserves special notice. A narrow and
lofty lancet fills the centre of the wall
N. and S., and has a lofty blank aich
on either side. Below runs the same
E. E. arcade which lines the lower
walls of aisles and transepts. The
whole is enriched with dog-tooth
moulding and with Pnrbeck shafts.
The E. window is a Perp. insertion,
and somewhat resembles (of course on
a much smaller scale) the E. window
of York Minster. Fragments of very
fine stained glass, chiefly full-length
figures, of various dates, from E. E.
to Perp.,which were scattered through-
out the Minster, have been collected and
arranged in this window, with some
modem additions. Under the window
is an atrocious Warton monument
It is probable (judging from the
position of other great shrines) that
the shrine of St. John of Beverley
stood in front of the Ladv-chapel,
leaving sufficient room before and
behind it for the circulation of pro-
cessions, and for the adoration of pil-
grims. The shrine in which the relics
were deposited after St. John's ca-
nonization in 1037 by Pq>e Benedict
IX. seems to have been destroyed by
the fire of llg?. Five years after
this the Saint's remains were dis-
covered, and deposited in another
feretory. When this shrine in its
turn was destroyed at the Beforma-
tion, the relics it contained were care-
fully interred. In 1664, whilst a
grave was being dng, they were found
in a case of lei^, and were reinterred
by order of Abp. Frewen. They
were again brought to lig^t, and
again buried, in 1736. They now
rest under "the 5th centre square
slab of black marble from the tower
westward.** As in the case of Si.
William at York, the original tomb
of St John was reverenced as well aa
the shrine ; and in 1443 Abp. Kempe
granted an indulgence of 100 days to
all who visited ue tomb, which dis-
tilled a miraculous oil (see post, the
nave). Offerings were fuso made be-
fore the banner of St John, which
Athelstane and Edward had taken to
Scotland.
On the N. side of the Lady-chapel
is the Percy Chantry, containing the
tomb of Henry Percy, fourth Earl of
Northumberland, killed in his house
of Maiden Bower, near Topcliffe, in
1489 (see TopeUffe, Bte. 22). The
effigy has disappeared from the altar-
tomb. The wmdow on the N. side
is late Perp., with a hollow mold-
ing, in which are laid angels, hear-
ing shields with Percy arms and
quarterings. The E. window is con-
siderably earlier, and seems to prove
that the chantry existed before it was
appropriated for the Earl's tomb.
Near the N. E. transept is the FrUh
itol (seat of peace), the last and
most sacred refuge for those who
claimed the privUege of sanctuary
here (aee pod}. It is rude and plain,
and (unless it has been reworked
after injury from the Puritan soldiers)
may perhaps be earlier than any part
of the existing ch. It stood originally
in the N. Porah. . Whoever violated
the << peace " of this seat, or attempted
to seize a criminal who had placed
himself in it, was guilty of a " boto-
los " fbootleas) crime, and could free
himself by no " bot " or money pay-
ment So says Prior Bichaid of
Hexham, in whose ch. a similar frith-
stool exists, slightly ornamented with
Norman patterns.
[The circuit of the ** sanctuary"
Sauie 8. — Beverley Minster : Nape,
1S9
of Beverley was marked by four
boondaij crosses, each of which was
about 1} m. distant from the ch.
BenuuDS of three of these crosses are
still standing. The *< Frithmen,** or
criminals wlu> fled here for sanetoary,
were sometimes allowed to take ser-
Tice in the King's "host/' They
lived in the town. Among the Har-
leian MSS. in the Britiw Mnsenm
is the original reentry of persons who
sought refnge at Beverley, the greater
part of them for murder.]
Against the N. wall of the aisle
W. of the transept is a remarkable
doable E. E. Staircaae, with foliated
Bzches and slender shafts, having en-
riched c«>ita]s. It probably com-
muiicated with an exterior chapter-
hoose, which no longer exists, or was
perhaps never bnilt. There is a simi-
lar one at Beonlien, Hants.
In the eastern aisle of the great N.
transept is the eflSgy (14th cent) of
a priest in eacharistic vestments,
whose aims appear on the maniple,
and on the apparel of the amice.
This effigy was long held to be that of
a Percy, bat from the heraldic evidence
more probably represents a Scrope
(see ArchseoL ^iana, 1860). The
treatment of the figure, and the
arcading round the altar-tomb, are
veiy graceful and good. Here is
also a short effigy of a layman (mer-
chant?) in a long dress, with collar
and loose sleeves. In the S. transept,
dose to the entrance, hangs a painted
tablet, representing Athebtane making
his famous grant to the Church m
Beverley. Underneath are the King's
traditional words : —
"AUfremakeltbe
As hert may thynka
Or egh may see.**
Whatever may be the original date
of this picture, it was repainted in
the leign of James I., as may be
seen by a comparison with the royal
anas which haa^ near it. The great
window in this transept is filled with
stained glass by Hardman, The
transepts and great tower piers have
been tnoroughl v cleaned and restored,
and the Purbeck shafts repaired
where needful. The vaulting has
been tinted to harmonize wim the
Tadcaster stone, and is a little lighter.
The bosses and adjoining portions of
the ribs are touched with gold and
colour.
The easternmost pier of the Nave,
which consists of ten bays (including
that under the western towen) is
E. E., with the arch on each side
of it This has Purbeck, like the
rest of the E. Eng. work. The rest
of the nave is late Dec.; and it is
evident that a considerable time must
have elapsed between the completion
of the E. E. work and the commence-
ment of the Dec. ; since no example of
early Dec (geomctriced^ tracery occurs
throughout the ch. The architect of
the Dec nave has closely followed the
design of the E. E. portion. The
piers, however, "though similar to
the others in plan, diow a variation
of style both in their capitals and
bases. Foliage (and grotesques) is
introduced in the capitals of the altar-
nate columns of each pier ; the support
of the label of the arch is of a richer
character, and the mouldings of tiie
architraves are such as to give a
greater breadth of effect in the way of
lights and shadows.*'— J". L. P. At
the intersection of the main arches are
figures of angels bearing musical in-
struments (the E. E. portion has
smaller figures). The triforial arcade
only differs from the E. £. in the
disuse of marble in the shafts ; and
its adoption shows that the later
architect fully " appreciated its beauty
and propriety." Mie clerestory arcade
has tnree arches instead of five. The
ball-flower is used instead of the dog-
tooth, and the window has three
lights with Dec. traceiy. The vault-
ing shafts spring from brackets, witii
simdl grotesque heads. The %o%nd<no9
140
Boute 8. — Beverley Mtnaier : Exterior.
in the S. aisle are filled with very
heautiful flowing tracenr, recalling
the great W. window of York Min-
ster (glazed in 1338), and perhaps
modelled on that. The windows in
the N. aisle (E. of the N. Porch) are
probably later, and are somewhat
diiferent Below the N. porch they
are Perp. Below the aisle windows
runs a very rich arcade, as in York
Minster. On the S. side the E. E.
arcade is closely followed, and its tre-
foiled arch and toothed ornament are
retained. On the N. side the arch is
a foliated ogee, with rich crockets and
spreading finials, and there is no
change under the Perp. windows at
the W . end. In the S. aisle, the foli-
age of the capitals is sometimes carried
along the wall itself in a yery unusual
manner. The grotesque figures at
the intersection of the arches on the
N. side should be noticed. These
beautiful arcades have been carefully
restored.
The extreme western bay of the
nave (under the W. towers) is Perp.
The last two Dec. piers, however, are
elongated, and show that the towers
were dready contemplated, although
Peip. portions have been added K.
and S. of them. The W. portal and
the space below the great W. window
are enriched with tabernacle work
above niches. On the doors are
modem and very bad carvings of the
four Evangelists. The window above
it is of nine lights, with three orders
of tracery, and (like the window of
the Lady-chapel) somewhat resembles
the E. window of York Minster. It
is filled with modern stained glass by
Hardman — ^the subjects being: in
the upper lights, the four Evange-
lists, with early kings and arch-
bishops. Then come the marriage
of Edwin and Ethelburga of Kent,
and the baptism of Edwin bv Pauli-
nus ; below are figures of Paulinus,
St. John of Beverley, and Coifi, the
priest who desecrated the heathen
temple at Godmanham (see the pre-
sent route, ante). Lower again are
the Synod of Aries, in which Eborius,
Abp. of York, was present, a,d. 314,
and the consecration of John of
Beverley as Bp. of Hexham. The
figures are those of Athelstalie, and
Abps. Thurstan and Neville. The
glass in the W. windows of the aisles,
also by Hardman, represents S., St.
Gregory in the slave market, "Non
Angli sed Angeli," and N., the arrival
of Si Augustine in Thanet The
length of the nave is 171 ft, the
height 76 ft, the narrow spacing of
the piers, the peculiar treatment of
the triforial space, by which great
height is gained for the main arches
and for the clerestory above, produce
at once a strong impression of dignity
and beauty, w£ch is increased on ex-
amination of the graceful details.
Round the central boss of the vaulting
in the second bay, W. of the central
tower, is an inscription which has
been restored. " Beverlacesis beati
Joha&is subtus in theca ponuntur
ossa." It marks the position of the
grave of St John, but whether of the
original grave is uncertain. It was
in this place that the remains were
found in 1644, when they were rein-
terred here.
On the S. side of the nave is a very
beautiful canopied tomb of late Dec.
character, which tradition assigns to
two maidens sisters, who gave two
common pastures to the town. The
font is of Purbeck marble, and un-
usually large.
On the ezterior the fine composi-
tion of the N. and S. fronts of the
great transept should be especially
noticed, as well as that of the slender
and buttress-like eastern transept
The E. front retains its E. £. but-
tresses and turrets, but was appa-
rently rebuilt from the ground when
the rerp. window was inserted. In
the buttress on either side of this is a
niche, with figures of Athelstane and
St John. The nave aisles are con-
Bauie 8. — Beverley : St. Manfa Church,
141
neeted with the clerestoiy by flying
buttresses; and on the S. side the
main buttresses, as at York, have
beantifnl open niches. The parapet,
which is carried round the E. E.
portion of the Minster as well as the
Dec, ia of the latter period.
The great features of the exterior,
however, are the North Poreh, and
the West Front with its towers. Both
of these are Perp. (The latter is
said to have furnished Wren with his
design for the western towers of West-
minster.) The North Porch, which is
especially graceful, rises higher than
the aisle, the upper part forming a
parvise. "The door has a fine fea-
thered, stndght-sided canopy, over
one of the ogee form, both crocketed.
It is flanked with niches, buttresses,
and pinnacles; the whole front is
panelled, and crowned with a lofty
central pinnacle, having a niche.'*
The Weft Front, the general design
of which was no doubt suggested by
that of York, is as flne an example
of a Perp. composition as that is of
Dee.; and it is even questionable
whether it is not superior in some
points. The design, as at York, com-
prises a gabled centre, in which is
the W. window, and a flanking tower
on either side. The comparative
dimensions are as follows: — Total
width of W. front externally : York,
140 ft 6 in. ; Beverley, 89 ft. 9 in.
Height of towers: York, 202 ft.;
Bevcriey, 162 ft. 7 in. Width of
towers: York, 32 ft. square; Bever-
ley, 19 ft, 11. in. N. to §., 23 ft. 9. in.
E' to W. Prom the summit of these
toweiB there is a magnificent view
over the rich level dStrict through
which the Hull river flows ; thickly
wooded, and bounded westward by the
line of the Wolds.
Bemark also the buttresses and
parapets of the nave aisles (especially
the S. side), and the beautiful com-
weatkm of each transept front This
Baily English work is a grand illus-
tration of the power and character of
the period which produced it, the first
half of the 13th cent
*St Man/a Church (opposite the
"Beverley Arms") is a magnificent
structure, almost rivalling the Min-
ster in interest It is cruciform, with
a central tower, and is Dec. (chancel,
arches, and aisles) and Perp. (nave
and tower), although it retains some
portions of earlier character. More
than one " restorer ** has been at work
here; but the building was (1863)
happOy placed in the hands of G. G.
Scott The West Front, dating late
in the reign of Edward m., is a very
fine exam^e of transition from Dec.
to Perp. The window is true Perp.,
of seven lights, with a parapet above
it From the centre of the parapet
rises a gabled niche, containing a
figure of the Virgin. On each side is
an octangular turret, with pierced
pinnacles and parapets of openwork,
rising high above the roof. These
are rather late Dec. than Perp., as is
the western doorway, which is much
enriched. The central tower is mas-
sive Perp., with a panelled parapet,
and numerous small pinnacles. The
circular window-openings in the upper
story are unusual, and their peculiar
tracery should be noticed. Project-
ing buttresses give strong character
to the tower, 'fiie vane on the S.W.
pinnacle was the last design of Pugin,
who was also the constructor of the
flying buttress supporting the S.
transept, the wall of which had shown
signs of insecurity. The S. doorway,
with its porch, displays a curious
mixture. The inner arch is semi-
circular, and has Norm, ornaments.
The outer is E. E. Over this is a
very fine Perp. porch, with windows,
and above the door is a Dec.
canopy. The transepts and E. end
of the chancel are rerp., and the
large clerestory windows in the tran-
septs add greatly to the fine general
effect On the N. side of the chancel
remark the beautiful Flamboyant win-
142
Souie 8. — Beverley: St. Mary's Church.
dow8 of the aisle, and those of a priests
rooms aboTe the chantry.
WUhin the ch., the earliest work is
in the chancel and transepts. The
chancel, of five bays, has early Dec
arches, with a circle enclosing a tre-
foiled ornament in the spandrels. At
the 4th bay on the N. side is a very
beaatiful niche with canopy. The
clerestory and £. window are Perp.
The latter is filled with admirable
stained glass by Clayton and BeU.
the subjects being nom the life of
our Lord. The ceiling, of wood,
panelled, and nearly flat, bears the
date 1445, and is painted with figures
of English kings, each of which has
a hbS. with an inscription. These
figures have been careiully restored
by WiUiam Padget, of Beverley,
rortions of an original screen and
some Perp. stalls remain in the
chancel. The S. aisle is Dec., with
a flat ceiling, painted blue, with gold
Stan. The N. aisle is also Dec., but
very much richer. The three eastern
bays are divided from the others by
an arch, and the vault, eastward,
which has exquisite bosses of foliage,
differs from that below, although both
parts of the aisle are apparently of
the same date. A small chantry (tra-
ditionally called the Flemish Chapd)^
with Fliunboyant windows, is entered
by a low arch from this aisle. (At
the entrance remark the figure of
a rohbit), with pilgrim staff and
scrip.) This chapel, and the N. aisle
adjoining, are of the same date and
character, and both may have been
constructed by Flemish workmen.
At the N.E. angle of the chancel
(between that and the aisle) a door
opens to a staircase leading to two
priest^s rooms above the N. aisle and
the Flemish Chapel. The careful
and masterly way in which this
stahvase is finished (especially the
groining at Hhe top) deserves especial
notice.
The titfiflepis weie rebuilt in the
Perp. period, and much of the old
material was again worked up. This
will account for the dog-tooth and
zigzag moulding in the arches, which
r^ on Perp. piers. The S. vnndow
has Dec. iracery, with Perp. jambs
and hood-moulds. The glass is by
Hardman. The N. is Fern. The
Perp. wooden ceiling of the N*. tran-
sept, much enriched with bosses and
inscriptions, has been restcved by Mr.
Brodnck, who added the gilt angels
with outspread wings as corbels. It
is a better ceiling than that of the
S. transept, which has also been
coloured. The S. trans, contains the
organ, with a case elaborately deco-
rated. It is by Messrs. Forster and
Andrews, of Hull, and contains 2086
?ipes. The piers of the tower are
erp.
In the year 1512 a portion of the
ch. fell, most probably the central
tower. The fall is recorded by an in-
scription on one of the pews in the
nave, which runs partly, — ** Pray God
have marce of al the sawllys of the
men and wymen and chehhrn whos
bodys was slayn at the faulying of
thys ccherc " (kirk) " thys fowl
was the 29 day of Aperel 1512."
It is remarkable that no other record
of this event exists ; and it is only
from the architectural evidence (and
from a local tradition) that the
*' fawl " is sunposed to have been that
of the central tower. This of course
makes the existing tower later than
1512, and accounto for the patched
work already noticed in the transepts.
The nave has been most carefully
restored, and the alderman^s pew and
Slleries which disfigured it have
ppily vanished. It is of six bays,
and almost entirely Perp., repeating
the general design of the chancel,
though not so gnuMtfally. The clere-
story is large and loft^, and the roof
panelled and nearly nikt. The most
mteresting fact connected with this
ch. 18 that it was built by asabsorip-
JBtmie 8.— Beverley : St. Mart/'s Ohtrek.
148
tioD,' eeiiun familieB, and individiiab
or guilds contribiitmg, some an aidi,
aome a pier. The date, 1428, occurs
on the d. side of the last pier. On
the N. nde, at the tenninatioDS of the
hood-moulds of the arches, are angels
with shields, bearing inscriptions re-
cording the donors. ^ Thys to (these
two) pjllors made god wySea ^ood
wiyes), God reward theym." "Thys
pylkr made the meynsiiylB'* (ronnd
the capitals of this pier are remarkable
figures of minstrels— a haiper, yiolin-
pUyer, drommer, Intanist, and piper.
*^Xlay (Crosky, a merchant of
Beredey) and his wyfFe made these
to pylkos and a halffe."
Below the N.W. tower pier is a
modem marble polpit, desired by
Scott It is of Derbydiire alabaster,
with a basement of Mansfield stone
and Italian maible, and is a fine work.
The W. window of the nare, and two
windows in the S. aisle, are filled
with glass by Hardman, the fonner
containing figures of our Lord, the
Blessed \^rgin, and Twelve Anostles.
The nare roof is coloured dark blue,
with ribs of oak and red, somewhat
too dark even for its considerable
height. On the nave floor is a
stone with incised cross, and an in-
scnption for Robert Burton, 1582— 4i
good example. The inner arches of
theW. door (late Dec.) should be
noticed, as well as the sculptured
lion and dragon above it. Remark
also the Norman work on the interior
of the 8. door— the arch of a loftv
doorway. The font has an English
inscription, and the date- 15S0, al-
though it is Dec. in design. It was
made by "Wylhn Seyffare, draper,
and his wyvis . . of his p&per costes."
The rich and remarkable sculpture
thionghont this ch. caUs for especial
notice, and diould be compared with
that in tiie Minster. The difference
is suffieienUr marked, especially be-
tween the Dec work of the chancel
and ttiat in the Ifinster nave, and
possibly indicates the employment of
a different school of workmen.
On the exterior S. waU of the choir
aisle, between the two westernmost
windows, is an oval tablet with two
swords crossed above ; and below the
lines —
** Here two yvmng Danish SouUIen lye.
The one in qnurell ohanoM to die ;
The other's Heed by their own Jaw,
With Sword was sever'd at one Blow."
Dee. 23. 1689.
Some Danish tnxyps had been landed
at Hull for the service of Wm. III.,
and marched to Beverley. The par.
rra^ister records the burial of the
soldiers— one beheaded for killing the
other. This is probably the last
instance of execution by sword in
England ; and the record of its occur-
rence here shows that the Danish
troops were exempt from English
law, either civil or military.
Of the ancient gateways. North Bar
alone remains, and is perhaps temp.
Edward m. It is of brick, with 3
small arched recesses, apparently for
seats, on either side of tne main pas-
sage. The portcullis groove exists.
N.£. of the Minster are some remains
of the Dominican friary (founded here
circ. 1821). They are of small interest,
and the gateways of moulded brick
are of a period after the Dissolution.
In the court is an effigy of a lady,
temp. Edw. L
The visitor who may chance to
pass out of Beverley by the North
Bar, turning 1. will reach the
Union Workkiu$e, an imfKising Tudor
'** mansion ; " and beyond is a conmnon
pasture of 504 acres caUed Wtatwood,
and given to the town by Abp.
Neville in 1380. A portion of it,
called Burton Bushes, is very pleasant ;
and there are fine views of Beverley
and the Minster.
Sarraeki for the regimental dep6t
of the (so-called) East Riding terri-
144 Boute S.'-'LeeonfieM CasOe-'DaUon Holme.
torial Begiment have been bxiilt 1 m.
E. of the towxii o& the road to
HuU.
[2i m. N. of Beverley is the site of
Leconfield Castle, a residence of the
Percys. Leland describes it as a large
house, ** and standith withjn a great
mote yn one very spacious courte;
three partes of the house, saving the
meane gate that is made of brike, is
al of tymbre. The fore part is fair
made of stone and some brike." Of
all this the moat alone remains.
Although the Abps. of York were the
feudal lords of Beverley, the Percys
were its real protectors ; and numer-
ous presents from the governors of the
town — herons, "dentrices" (pike?),
bream, and wine ; swans and pheasants
to " my ladv the Countess," and obla^
tions to Master William Percy **to
celebrate his prime missel-gassed
under the great gateway of Lecon-
field. Occasionally the twelve gover-
nors were entertained at the CasUe in
great state. The Castle gives a title
to Col. Wyndham, Lord Leconfield, of
Petworth in Sussex, one of the repre-
sentatives of the Percys. The vil-
lage of Leconfield is veiy pictu-
resque.]
A drive from Beverley by the old
high road to Malton as far as the
Finiber station on the riy. between
Malton and Driffield (distance, 16 m.
— ^but there may be some excursions),
will show something of the Wolds,
and will allow visits to some interest-
ing churches, especially the new ch.
of DaUon Holme, and ^ose of Bayn^
ion and Kirldmme.
The road passes (2 m ^ the village of
Cherry Burton (see ante); and leaving
JSUon (where the ch., restored in 1869,
has Norm, portions^ to the L, reaches
(4 nL from Beverley) a cross road,
which in about 1 m. gains the village
of DaUon Holme (formerly S. Dalton).
The adjoining parishes of S. Daltcm
and Holme on the Wolds, with a
joint population of 427, have been
united ; and a noble Chrvreh (begun
1859, completed 1861) has been
erectedj(archit. /. L, Pearson^ RA.)
at a cost of at least 26,000Z., entirely
defrayed by the late Lord Hotham.
It consists of nave, transepts with
eastern chapels, chancel, W. tower
and spire. The exterior stone is
Steetley; the interior, a very white
stone Rom Hildenley, near Malton.
This is laid in blad^ mortar. The
general character is £. Dec., but
rather French than English. The
beautiful tower and spire, together
200 ft high, are very striking, and
perhaps the best portion of the ch.
Inside, the effect is entirely pro-
duced by proportion and by rich-
ness of carving and detail. There is
no colour, and even the use of dif-
ferent marbles has been avoided.
All the details, however, deserve
attention for their finish and excel-
lence. The stained glass is hj day-
ton and BeU, The chapel E. of the
S. transept is that of the Hothams,
and contains some monuments re-
moved from the old ch., the prindpal
being that of Sir John Hotham, d.
1689, sculptured in Italy. The four
cardinal virtues support a black
marble slab, on which is an effigy.
The founder of the present ch. is
buried in the vault breath. There
is a wonderful view from the top of
the tower. One of the bells (removed
from the old ch.) dates from l^e
14th cent Among the plate is a
very fine alms-dish of Nuremberg
work of the first half of the 16th
cent.
About 1 m. W. of the ch. is Dalton
HaU (Lord Hotham), a Georgian
house, which was ereatly enlarged
and improved (1874\ Among the
mcturee here are — ^Mrs. Siddons as
Isabella in the * Fatal Marriage,' by
Sir William Hamilton ; George m.
by Sir J, Beynolds, given by the king
to Sir Charles Hotham ; George L, by
B<mte 8. — Kirkbume;
145
KneOer; and (artist unknown) Sir
John Hotham and his son, executed
by the Parliament for their design
(\(A2) of abandoning Hull to King
Charles. The gardens are large,
and good, and the park i^ extensive,
with some good timber. The " lawn "
opposite the S. front of the house is
about a i of a mile in length, and is
sarroonded, in the formal fashion of
the last ceni, with magnificent
beech-trees. About 2 m. W. of
South Dalton, at the extremity of
the township, is the Kipltngcotes
racecourse (said to be the earliest in
Enghmd), on which stakes have been
ran for (raised from a sum of 3602.
sabscribed by the then Lord Bur-
lington and others) since 1618.
These races take place on the third
Thnrsday in Marcn, and a game of
ball on horseback, precisely resem-
bling the modem " polo," is always
played on the same day.
From Dalton Holme the road is re-
gained at the village of Holme-on-the'
FoZd«, where the chancel of the old
ch. remains, and is used as the chapel
of the cemetery. It is a picturesque
fragment. At Lund (1 m^ is a mixed
ch. (arcade E. E., font Norm., tower
Perp.) of no very great interest
There are 2 early female effigies.
(Between Lund and Sainton, IJ m.
rt. of the road, is Middtetoiij where is
a snudl early Dec ch. The village
lies on a bed of glacial drift, in which
bones of extinct mammals have been
foand.) The eh. of Sainton (2 m.) is
more important This is late Dec
and the mterior is fine, with a lofty
arcade (no clerestory), and a broad
chancel. The font is Norm. The ch.
was restored, and some of tho waUs
rebuilt, in 1869. Li the chancel is
the fine brass of Roger Oodeale
U52 (?) rector, with chalice. Here is
ak) (in the N. aisle) a remarkable
effigy, temp. Hen. HI. of a knight,
ero«-legged, in chain-mail and the
long eychs or overcoat. He is bare-
Headel A toad creeps up the sword
which hangs from his belt, and a
lizard stretches by his side, biting
the point of his wield. The hands
raised iiiprayer, hold a heart between
them. The feet rest on a lion. The
effigy is said to be that of Peter De
Maulay, and the arms of the De
Maulays (3 eaffles on a bend) are on
8 shields on tiie wall above the mo-
nument The effigy lies under an
enriched arch, of much later date.
(In this parish, rt of the road, is
Neswick HaU, J. Grimston, Esq.
The house contains some Turner
drawings.)
A cross road rt, } m. beyond
Bainton, leads to the village of
Kirlibume (1 m.), where is one of
the most interesting churches in
Yorkshire. Ch. and village stand
picturesquely on the edge of a hollow,
through which runs a stream, called
the Holbume (hoi = hollow; BatUe-
hume, Eastburne and Southbume
are other streams which unite near
Kirkbume, and flow onward to
Great Driffield). There are fine ash-
trees round; and near the ch.-yd. a
very large elm with knotted roots,
called the "village tree.** The ch.
is late Norman, much enriched, and
retains its original plan (nave, W.
tower, and square-ended chancel),
although it has been throughout
restor^ (1856, Pearson, archit). On
the exterior the nave has broad, flat
buttresses ; round-headed window-
openings, high in the wall, and much
enriched with zigzag; and a corbel
table above, wi£ grotesque heads
The chancel has been rebuilt; but
is a reproduction of the original
design, and the Norman sculptures
have been retained. The portal on
the S. side of the nave has a very
rich beak moulding, and beyond it
the signs of the Z^iac. Chi the N.
side uie door has plain mouldings.
The upper part of the tower is Perp.
Within, the chancel arch is very rich
Norm., having three orders of chevron
ornament, with a billet moulding
I*
Bauie 8. — OoUingham.
beyond. Above the arch are 8 round-
headed openings ; and a rich modem
chancel screen of wood croesee it.
The abacus of the shaft-caps is con-
tinued as a stringcourse along the
wall. The tower arch is E. E.
The staircase in the tower is very
unusual. It ascends steep and open,
first along the face of the S. wall,
then turns, and crosses the W. wall
in front of a Norm, window (to which
there is an ascent of three steps from
the staircase), and at the N.W. angle
it is continued upward in a spiral
form to the belfry. The font is very
fine Norm. — a circular basin, with two
series of sculptures divided by a
twisted band of ornament The
sculptures apparently represent, above,
the Baptism of Our Lord ; the Charge
to Peter; and the Ascension (in
the latter the aureole (or rainbow?)
is held by angels, — ^a mode of re-
presentation occurring in many other
places — among the rest, at Newbald
m Yorkshire; see Rte. 3). The
htoer range (mostlv animals) has
been thought, wiuiout any cer-
tainty, to refer to the story of * Rey-
nard the Fox,* but these sculptures
are probably little more than orna-
mental.
The modem reredos was designed
by G. E. Street {Be^em, sculpt);
and represents the Crucifixion,
with the Virgin of St. John in the
centre, and in small panels, the
Annunciation, the Nativity, the
Burial and the Resurrection of our
Lord, llie material is very pure
alabaster. Li the ch.-yd. is a cross
on 3 steps, also designed by Street,
and very striking. On one side is
the Crucifixion, on the other the An-
nunciation. (Cross and reredos were
given bv the lord of the manor, Sir
Tatton Sykes, who also greatiy aided
the general (and most necessary)
restoration.)
We regain the high road at (1 in.)
ariW/iorpc — (a 6-mile drive across
the Wolds, 1. — affording a good notion
of the country — ^will bring the tonrist
to Huggate (high gate? the high
road ?), a large village in a hollow of
the Wolds, with a restored (1864) ch.
Trans. Norm, arcade and cbimcei
arch, late Dec. tower and spire, the
latter hexagonal, with a ronnded
attached rib, ending halfway down
in a small projecting head). The
ch. was given to St Mary's Abbey,
York, by Philip Paganel. The ad-
joining wolds are much marked by
entrenchments and tumuli.
4 m. beyond Tibthorpe, the road
passes through Wetwang, where
the ch., chiefly Perp., has Norm,
portions. 2 additional nL brings
us to Fimbert where is the ch. men-
tioned above. Here is a atation
on the Malton and Drifi&eld Bly.
For the road from Fimber to Malton,
see ante.
Leaving Beverley, the train in 10
min. reaches
(JoUvMham Station. A short dis-
tance W. of the village are some
traces of the moats (outer and inner)
of Cottingham Castle, successively
the seat of the Stutevilles, and the
Wakes. It was built by Robert
Stuteville, sheriff of Yorkshire, in
1170, and passed to the Wakes by
marriage. There is a tradition (quite
unfounded) that the castle was bnrat
by the Lord Wake of Heniy VIII.'s
day, who had received intimation that
the king, then at Hull, intended to
honour him with a visit. Ladv
Wake, it is said, was very beautiful,
and her husband preferred the loss
of his house to the risk of the king s
admiration. There is probably as
much truth in this story as in the
assertion that Johanna de Stuteville
(1242) was the " inventress " of riding
sideways on horseback, — ^because she
is so represented on her seal. The
Church of Cottingham is Dec., bat of
Boute 9.—HvU to BridUngtm.
147
more than one period It is chiefly
noticeable for the very fine brass of
Nicholas de Loda (of Loath in
Lincolnshire), rector, and builder of
the chancel in 1374. The brass is
large, with canopy and super-canopy,
the figure in cope. The inscription
leooids that Nichohis founded pre-
bendal staUs at Beverlcnr and at
Salisbury. Church and brass have
been restored. An Augustinian
Prioiy was founded here by Lord
Wake, in 1822 ; but was removed a
year or two later to Newton or
" Hattemprke," about 1 m. S. There
are no remains. The intennitting
8]pring8, at Kddgate, 1 m. from the
villagOy are sometimes dry for four or
five years, and then break out sud-
denly.
In } hr. the train reaches
Hua (see Rte. 8).
ROUTE 9.
HULL TO BRIOUNOTON, BT BEVERLEY
[AMD DRIFFIELD.
(A\ JB. BodUoay. 5 trains daily
from HulL Time to Bridlington 1
br. 30 UL The trains run on from
Bridlington to Scarborough — Bte.
la)
For the line from Hull to Bever-
ley, see the preceding route. .Leav-
ing Beverley, at about 3 m., Leeon-
fidd (Bte. 8, Exc from Beverley) is
mused L The village lies about 1 m.
from
Arram Stat, where is a scattered
hamlet The next station is
LockingUm, The village lies 1)
m. 1. The ch. has Norm, and E. £.
portions. (About the same distance
from the station, but S. of it, and on
the high road from Beverley to Drif-
field is Scarborough, where the ch.
was rebuilt in 1859, at the cost of
James Hall, Esq., of Scarborough
HaU. The architect, Pearson, aSo
built the ch. of Dalton Holme (Bte.
8), in which he was not allow^ to
introduce colour. Here colour in
marble and in wall painting has
been largely used, and with veiy
good result There is a spire.)
L. of the line, and on the hifh
road, is Beswick, where (in the
Manor House, a fine Jacobssan build-
ing of red brick) lived and died the
"blameless Bethel" of Pope, his
friend and correspondent : —
"Thus Bethel spoke, who always speak his
thought,
And always thinks the very thing he ought.
His equal mind 1 copy what I can,
And, as 1 love, would imitate the man."
InUt. qf Horace,
The small ch. was built in 1871.
Beswick is in the par. of KUn/mtk
on the Wolds, where the di. (1 m. rt)
has a good Norm, portal, with beak-
head moulding. It was restored in
1871
A short distance beyond Beswick
the rly. crosses a tributary of the Hull
river, on the bank of which is Watton
Priory, founded for Gilbertines in the
reign of Stephen. The building now
caUed the "Abbey" (occupied by a
farmer) is a dwelling-house of brick
with stone dressings, built from the
l2
148
Boute 9.—BuU to Bridiingtonr--Driffield.
rnins of the Priory, in the Tudor
style, and containing some old tapes-
t]^. It belongs to the Bethels. Some
portions of the conventual buildings
now serve as stables. The tower is
Dec. The font, circ. and covered
with figures, resembles that at Kirk-
bume. There is a station at HuUon
Crannjoick, where the ch. has Norm,
portions. The Perp. ch. is of brick,
with stone qnoins. (The ch. of
Skeme, passed rt, between Hntton
and Ihimeld, contains the remains
of some eariy effigies, and has been
restored. Ijiere is a Norm, portal
and arch.) We soon reach
DriMeld Junction, where the rly.
from Malton (see Bte. 11} *joins the
line we are following.
Driffldd (Bwr or «JDe»ra,"/eW;
the 'Afield,** or open space in the
midst of the great woods of Deira) is
a town of bSoxA 5000 Inhab. (Inn:
Bed Lion) at the foot of the Wolds,
having a considerable corn-market,
and a commnnication with the Hull
river (and so with the Humber) by
means of a small canal, along which
much com and farm produce is con-
veyed. Driffield, like other towns
and villages under the Wolds, has
probably claims to a great antiquity.
(See for a general notice of the Wolds
Bte. 11.) Many tumuli and sepulchral
mounds, of various dates, exist in the
neighbourhood, one of which (a high
tumulus, covering an irregular vault
formed of untooled slabs), in a field
near Allamanwath Bridge, was opened
in 1851, and proved to be British.
Bronze, bone, and stone implements
were found, but no iron. Early
Saxon grave-mounds have also been
opened here, and have disclosed
amber beads and rock-ciystal peb-
bles, *^ perforated with a degree of
accuracy which implies not only the
skilful use of the Lathe, but also the
possession of emeiy — a substance not
likely to be had except from the I
island of Naxos. Such beads were
probably a part of the treasures of
the East, brought to the North of
Europe by mercenary soldiers or
roving pirates.'' — PhillipB. Some
large barrows on the road N. of
Driffield are known as ** Danes*
graves," and perhaps date from the
time when the Northmen were ra-
vaging Holdemess.
In spite of its antiquity, however,
Driffield has little to interest the
visitor, unless he be an angler, in
which case he may find some good
sport in the small trout-streams
which rise near, and form the head-
waters of the Hull river.
" The Church is very ancient. In
it is a basso-relievo of Paulinas."
(Stukeley to Gale, 1740.) This must
be the sculptured figure of an eccle-
siastic, with a crosier in hand, in-
serted in wall at W. end of S. aisle
(outside). The arcade is Norm.;
the N. and S. portals E. E., and the
tower fine Peip. At Little Driffield
the existing ch. (partly rebuilt 1808,
partly Perp.) contains fragments of
floriated crosses, &c., in its walls —
relics of an earlier building. Here is
the supposed tomb of Alfred Eingof
Northumbria (died circa 727). The
tradition that he died and was buried
here is as old as the time of Leland,
who says that a Latin inscription was
to be seen on the tomb. This, and
the tomb itself, have disappeared, and
a modem inscription (in English)
now records the interment ** within
this ch." (See Ebberston, Bte. 12.)
(The interring Norm. ch. of Kirk-
bume (see Bte. 8) lies about 3 m.
S.W. of Driffield, and may easily be
visited thence.)
From Driffield the rly. turns N.E.,
skirting the edge of the Wolds, which
are seen 1. At
Nafferton (station) the ch. has
been restored, and contains some
modem stained glass. More inte-
restinpj than the parish ch. is one
which has boen built at the cost of
Sir Tatton Sykes in the hamlet of
Boute 9. — Burton Agneh.
Wangford (li m. S. of the station).
The architect was G, K Street. This
church is remarkable for its stained
glass, painted roofs, and veiy beaa-
tifiil marble rood-screen and pulpit
The turret at the W. end is earned
on arches from the floor. There are
also a ch.-7d., cross, lych-gate, and a
new parsonage.
Low(horpe Stat. Here is an old
collegiate Ckureh, with the chancel
in ruins. It was made collegiate by
Sir John de Herbarton in 1333, and
the chief part of the bnilding is
about that date, but there has been
much alteration. It contains the
mcnmn^it, with effigr, of a knight
of the Heibarton fanmy (14th cent.).
Lowiharpe Lodge is a residence of
W. H. St Qnintin, E^.
1} m. N. of Lowthorpe Stat is
Earpham Chnrch, in which are
sey^il fine monuments of the St
Qnintana. Besides altar-tombs, with
^gies, there are two excellent
hrtu8e$ — Sir Thomas de St Qointin
(brd of the manor) and wife, 1418.
The kni^t treads on a lion. His
armour well shows the advance of
plate in tiie early years of the 15tii
cent Boond the bascinet is a rich
"ode" or wreath of feathers and
jewels, '' intended to lighten the
presBore of the tiltine helmet*'
Minee. The second brass is for
Thomas de St Qnintin, 1445, and the
fiffore is in complete plate-aimour.
Thae fine brasses were probably the
work of provincial engravers, who
seem to have been first employed (in
England) in Yorkshire and Lincoln-
shire, especially during the 15th
cent See Ma{nes*8 ^ Manual of
Honmnental Brasses,* i. p. 28. Over
the altar is a bas-relief, by WtUonj
to the memoir of Charlotte, wife of
Sir William St Qnintin, 1762. In
the vOlage is St John's Well, a
memorial, no doubt, of St John of
Beverley, who, however, was not
149
bom here, as has been dud, but at
Cheny Burton (see Bte. 8).
The next StoHon is at
Burton Agnesj where the Church
and *Hall are well worth a visit
The BdU (Sir Henry Boynton, Bart)
is a very nne example of James I.*s
reign. It is of brick, with stone
coigns, and is approached through a
very picturesque gatehouse. In the
entrance-hall is an elaborately-carved
chimneypiece of marble, with figures
of the wise and foolish Virgins, and a
magnificent screen, rising to t^e roof,
and covered with a mass of minute
carving, which was brought here
from Barmston, another seat of tiie
family. A very quaint staircase leads
to the long gallery, the most remark-
able room in the house, having a
carved roof, decorated to imitate a
treUis-work bower, intertwined with
roses and creepers. Among other
pictures here (of no very great im-
portance) are some landscapes on
panel, said to be by Bvbena, The
hall was added to, and somewhat
altered, by Inigo Jones in 1628. It is
surrounded by rich wood, veiy plea-
sant to the eye after the bare sweeps
of the wolds, and is a most pic-
turesque object from whatever side it
is viewed, especially from the flower-
garden.
The Vicarage of Burton Agnes was
long held by Archdeacon Wilbor-
foTce, who was the first in this part
of Yorkshire to " restore ** his Ckureh,
The example thus set has been
largely followed — not without evil
results as well as goodr— since, in too
many instances, " restoration ** has
really meant destruction. The N.
side of the nave shows a fine Trans.
Norm, arcade, with low, massive
piers and pointed arches. The S.
arcade is more decided B. £. The
arcade on the N. side is much de-
faced by a partition, which fences off
the seignonal pew and a chapel
ISO
Boute 10.— Beoeirley to BndUngtan.
beycmd it, in which are some mona-
ments and effigies of the Griffiths
(former lords of Burton Agnes).
These are Elizabethan, one of them
(the monmnent of Sir Henij Griffith
and his wives) being especially won-
derful. It is an altar-tomb (the
side panels of which are formed of
piled-up bones) supporting three
coffins of stone, "niere is a fine
Perp. arch opening to the tower.
The chancel was entirely restored
by Archdeacon Wilberforce, and the
pieis and capites have been much
reworked. The moulding above
the credence-table terminates W.
in a small figure with hands raised
in prayer. The head is that of
William Wilberforce, father of the
Archdeacon. The font is Trans.
Norm., and was restored to its pre-
sent place by Archdeacon Wilber-
force, who found it doing duty as a
fiower-vase in the Vicarage Garden.
On the exterior of the Perp. tower
(in the 3rd story) are niches for
figures.
(3 m. N.W. of Burton Agnes is
KUham, The ch. is Pen), and fine,
with a rich Norman portal.)
Passing Camaby Stat (the village
is } m. ]. ; the ch. contams a font
worth notice) the noble ch. of Brid-
lington soon comes into view, and we
reach
Bridlington Stat.
ton, see Rte. la)
(For Bridling-
ROUTE 10.
BEVERLEY TO BRIDUNQTON.— BOAD.
The turnpike road from Beverley
to Bridlington (24 m.) crosses the
country at some distance £. of the
rly. (Rte. 9.) Tlie Hull river is
crossed soon after leaving Beverley.
It flows through marshy ground
'< among gravelly hiUs, whidi re-
semble the *a8ars' of Scania, the
^escars' of Mayo, and, in a less de-
gree, the 'moraine' of glacial coun-
tries, such as the hills of Eelk and
Brandsburton."— P^flKps. (See Rte.
7.)
In the ch. of BouUi (3 m.) is the
shattered effigy of a knight, temp.
Henry HI. ; and the g[Ood brasses of
Sir John Ronth and his wife Agnes,
ciic. 1410. Both wear collars of 8S.
7 m.; L of the road, is Leven ch.,
originally E.E. (the EE. font re-
mams). The ch. was rebuilt 184S-
45, and on a different site. Here is
preserved the fragment of a fine cross,
of late Dec. character (circ. 1860 ?\
found some years since in the clu-ya.
On one side is the Crucifixion, with
St. John and the Yirsin ; on the other
the Virgin and Child, St Catherine,
andjanotber saint At
Boute 10. — Brandahurton — Barmston,
151
8 m. the road passes through the
Tillage of Brandibwion. The St.
Qointiiis possessed the manor from
aTery early period uitil the end of
tiie 14th cent. ; and in the ch. (but
hidden mider seats) are the la^e
and fine braaaes of Sir John St.
Qointin (1397) and his wife Lora
(1379). Sir John, by his will (dated
1397), left 20 marVs for a stone,
with ''images of laton,'* of himself
and 2 wires,— only one of whom
now appears. The fiffores, which
are Ufe-size, were probably the work
of a local (Yorkshire) artist The
knight's effigy is a good example of
annomr. He holds a heart between
his hands. In the ch. is also a small
brass far William Darell, rector of
Ki^ah^y", 1364. The building itself
is of TarioQS dates, and not veiy im*
poiianL In the village are the re-
mains of a large cross.
A short distance N.W. of the vil-
laee, is the Barf (local for a small
hiS) '' one of those irregular mounds
of giavel and sand whidk denote the
effect of ancient sea currents ; for all
Holdemess was a sea-bed in the gla-
cial period.''— P&iStps. It is nearly
2 m. long, and varies in height from
20 to 60 yards. Bemains of the
mammoth, many shells, and tusks of
elephants, have been found in it
S<n!ie skeletons, which have been
disinterred here by the gravel-dig-
gen, dkow that the hill was used as
a ^kce of sepulture at a far later
penodL
At Nwiikeding, 1 m. off the road,
it, was a Prioiy for Benedictine nuns,
founded by Agnes, wife of Herbert
de St Qumtin, about 1150. It was
gmall, and its annual value at the
Biasolntion was only 852. No por-
tion of the building remains, and the
present di. dates from 1810. In the
chancel are mutilated efBgies (14th
cent^ of Sir Andrew ^uconberg
and nis wife, preserved from the old
COOZCII*
The ch. of Be^ord (18^ m.^ is
Peip., but has been much alterea at
various times. The tower is good,
with a mceful open j>arapet The
figure of the patron saint, St Leo-;
nard, remains in a niche over the
W. door, and it may be remarked
that such figures have been little
disturbed throughout this part of
Yorkshire. In most churches they
will be found still existing. In the
chancel is a good brass of Thomas
Tonge, rector, 1472. He wears a
richly ornamented cope, and holds a
book. Crow GarOi, m this par., for-
merly belonged to Meaux Abbey, and
was depriv^ of its ancient trees by
a ^^nativus" resident here. He com-
plained of the noise of the crows;
and begged leave of the abbot to get
rid of Siem" by an act." The "act"
was to cut down all the trees.
At LisseU (16 m.) is a small
chapel, dedicated to St James, con-
taining some portions of early Norm,
work. The S. door, the chancel
arch (low and semicirc.), and the
font, a plain, rude bowl, are of this
character.
Barmston Ch. (18 m.), dedicated to
St. James, contains an altar-tomb
with fine effigies, said to be that of
Sir Martin de la See, who died in
1497. The armour, however (circ.
1415 ?), is considerably earlier. It is
entirely of plate: with a jewelled
bawdric, ana a fillet encircling the
bascinet, on which are the words
"JesuNazare."
Beyond Barmston, hanging over
the sea, is seen the last house of
Aubumj a village of which the rest
has been wash^ away by the sea.
Hartbum, somewhat §. of it, has dis-
appeared entirely. (For a notice of
this coast, and of the manner in
which it is gradually devoored by tho
sea, see Bte. 6.)
The road from Baimston kUhms.
152
Bottfe 11.— JtfaZtow to Driffiddr^The Wolds.
the coast-line, with little to attract
attention till at
23 m. we reach Bridlington, (See
Bte. 13.)
ROUTE 11.
MALTON.TO DRIFFIELD.
(Branch of N. E, Railxoay, 3
trains. Time 1 hr.)
THE WOLDB.
The tourist in search of the pie-
toresqae will find little to care for
on this line of riy., unless from one
of the intermediate stations he pene-
trates into the WoUb, through the
heart of which the line passes.
These %coLd9 — (the word is identical,
or nearly so, with "weald," as in
the "weald" of Kent, and signifies,
in its first sense, a wooded or forest
country, hut like the word "forest"
itself it came to be used for any open,
little cultivated district) — form a
great crescent of chalk hills, curving
round from Flamborough Head to
the Humber at Ferriby, cut through
by a wide valley, which ranges from
Settrington to Bridlington. The hills
rise from Flamborough to Wilton
Beacon (805 ft), and thence gra-
dually decline to Hunsley Beacon
(531 ft.) and tiie Humber. Inter-
mitting springs, named Gypseys (see
Rte. 13), burst along the valley ; and
all round the wolds, at the base of
the hills, where water-springs occur,
is a line of ancient villages, no donbt
on the sites of British stttlements.
The peculiar character of the chalk,
wiUi its deep, dry, steep-sided hol-
lows, is more remarkably developed
among iiie Yorkshire wolds than
even on the Southdowns of Sussex;
and no one who merely passes through
the wolds bv the rly. which follows
their central valley* will obtain the
least notion of the singular bits of
scenery lying among the hills rt.
and 1. of him. A sudden depres-
sion in the chalk frequently opens a
green, precipitous hollow, so deep
and so steep as to check even the
boldest riders of the wold hunt. In
these depths there are few or no
sounds, except, it may be, the cawing
of rooks and jackdaws which abound
all over the wolds; and nothing is
to be seen but the enclosing green
hills, marked along their sides by
the narrowest sheep-tracks, and the
cloud-flecked sky, which seems to
rest upon them. The broader val-
leys and depressions (such as Thixen-
daJe, Rte. 8) are hardly less striking.
The wolds themselves are covered
with tumuli, and with very extensive
entrenchments, forming places of
refuge for men and catue during the
forays of an enemy. These, which
cut off large promontories of hill, or
front long valleys, are no donbt of
British origin, and are most note-
worthy along the Northern frontier
of the wolds (see Rtes. 12 and 13),
and along their western brow, be-
tween Muton and Cave. "A good
general idea of this class of works
may be had by consulting the plan
of a part of the wolds" (or the
Ordnance map) "above Acklam and
Birdsall, where dykes are numerous
and of great extent, and are seen in
connection with tumuli of unequivo-
cal British character."— P^aZt|w.
"Everywhere these hills present
BofUe II.— The Wolds,
153
a smooth bold front to the N. and
W. ; and from a point like Leavening
Brow, which conrniands views in
both directions, the prospect is sin-
gular and delightful. An immense
vale sweeping romid, with the great
tower of York Minster for its centre ;
in the S., the gleaming water of the
Homber ; on the W., the far off
moontains; to the N., purple moor-
lands; while immediately smronnd-
ing ns are the green wold hills,
crowned with the tnmnli and camps
of semi-barbarous people, who chased
the deer and wild boar through
Galtres Forest, watered their flocks
at Acklam rorings, chipped the flint,
or carved the touo, or moulded the
rode iKftteiy in their smoky huts,
and listened to warriors and priests
at the mound of Aldrow, and the
temple of Gk)odmanham." — PhtHips,
(Leavettina Brmo is on the W. boraer
of ihe wolds, about 6 m. from Kirk-
ham Stat, Bte. 12— see also Rte. 8,
Aldrow is on the hill above Birdsall.
see pogt. For Goodmatihamf see
Rte. 8.)
Views of this class, however, aro
not to be found among the wolds
themselves, — a mass of low swelling
hilb, with villages here and there in
the hollows. Fifty years ago they
fonned one unenclosed sheepwalk, of
about thirty miles square, over which
you might gallop m all directions
without bein^ troubled by a fence.
The whole district is now enclosed,
with such an increase of value, that
a farm which was then worth 1002^ a
year, is now worth 10002. Trees
would grow here, but they are not
'^profitable'* enough, — and hurches,
which are planted in some places, are
cut down like a ** crop," when at all
of useful size. Sledmere and its
neighbourhood are the only tree-
sheltered portions of the wolds, al-
though a few trees are generally
gathered about a village, or a single
uimhonse. These fannhouses are
good and substantial, ;and the wold
uimeiB are distinguished by the skill
and intelligence which, together with
ample capital, they bring to bear on
their land. Their horses are their
pride ; and 70Z. or 80L is an ordinary
price for a good draught horse (there
are no " cart-horses " on the wolds).
The waggons aro furnished with a
pole, and four horses aro driven from
the saddle, a farm servant acting as
postillion. The roads, which cross
the district in every direction, are
excellent; since care for his horses
has led the wold farmer to pay espe-
cial attention to them. In each
parish, by the side of ^e jjrincipal
road, is the public chalk pit, from
which "top dressing" is procured,
and the botanist will find these places
worth examination, since many plants,
elsewhere extinct in the country, still
linger about them.
There was some cultivation in parts
of the wolds at a very early period.
Each farmer owned a certain number
of "oxgangs" (a word still to be
heard now and then from the mouths
of old labourers), and lines of ancient
balks and plough lands, some straight,
some curiously curved, still exist in
pUces. The common pasture or
meadow was divided into portions,
each of which changed hands annu-
ally, and each had cut on the turf
a distinguishing mark — as an arrow,
a triangle, or a circle. At the harvest
feast a number of apples, each marked
in a corresponding fashion to one of
the ** dsls or divisions, were thrown
into a tub of water. Each farmer
then dived for an apple; and the
mark which it carried indicated the
"dsel" which was to be his for the
coining year. The Dolemoors in
Somersetshire were managed in a
simihir way, save that the change was
for a longer period. It is no doubt
a very ancient Teutonic land custom.
Sheep, however, must always have
been, until the enclosure, the great
speciality of the wolds. Shepherds
are still employed, but they have lost
much of their ancient character, and
the old cpstoms which united them in
164
Baute 11. — Fimber — Sledmere.
a sort of guild are rapidlj passing
swaj. Before a lad was allowed to
ioin the " order," he was bound to sav
by heart the shepherd's psalm, as it
was called, *' The Lord is mj Shep-
heid." The great festival of their
year was "Shepherd Sunday" (2nd
after Easter), when the gospel con-
tains our Lord's words, 'I am the
Good Shepherd." On this day few
shepherds were absent from ch., how-
V ever rarely they might appear at other
times.
Boman roads from York ran across
the wolds in the direction of Filey
imd Bridlington. Small square camps
occur at intervals, on or near them —
intended for temporary shelter, and
for keepiiur in awe the British popu-
lation. (The Ordnance maps, and
Mr. Newton's Map of British and
Boman Yorkshire, will be found the
best assistants in examining the very
perplexed lines of ancient works in
this district)
Leaving Malton, the line soon
enters the wolds, and the first Slat,
is at
SeUrington^ where the ch. is chieflv
Perp. From Settrington Beacon, 1.
of the rly., there is a veiy fine view
of the kind described from Leavening,
but extending over the Vale of
Pickering. At the next 8taL,
North Qrimdon, the ch. has Nonn.
and E. E. portions, and the font (of
later date) is worth notice.
[Lan^ton HaU (Mrs. Norcliffe) is
2. m. E. Village, church and man-
sion all stand within a well-defined
Boman camp, which extends } m. E.
to W. on rising ground.
3 m. S. is BvrdtaU (Lord Middle-
ton), approached by a fine avenue.
The Chureky which stands within the
park, was built in 1825. Some
arches and a part of the tower of the
old ch. still exist Lord Middleton
has hunted the wold country since
the death of the late Sir Tatton
Sykes, and the hounds are kept here.
On the hill above the house is the
mound of AJdrow, one of those re-
markable "raths," or green tumuli,
of which the finest example is at
Barwick in Elmete (Bte. 42, and see
Introd.)1
There is nothing which calls for
notice at the tiationa — Whar-ram^e-
Street (the name marks its position
on a Boman vicinal way) and Bur-
dale. At the next Stat,
Fimber^ the ch. may be visited
(described in Bte. 8), and the tourist
who has time should walk to Thixei^
dale (3 m.), where the wold valley is
picturesque. (This is also described
in Bte. 8.)
The house of Sledmere (Sir Tatton
Sykes, Bart) is 3 m. from Fimber
Stat It is a fine " Grecian" build-
ing, with a noble librajT' running the
whole length, 155 ft. The ch., in the
park, contains some monuments of
Sykeses and Mastermans. The late
Sir TatUm Sukes (bom 1772, died
1863), so well known on the race*
course and in the huntiuf-field, was
(with his father, Sir Christopher
Sykes, to whom a memorial " temple *'
was erected by Sir Tatton in 1840,
opposite the nark gates) the great
"reformer" of the wolds. He was
the first to plant and enclose, " turn-
ing bare sheep-walks into rich corn-
growing land, averaging from forty
to forty-eight bushels of wheat to the
acre." His breed of sheep was fa-
mous ; " and from his training-groond,
and its 120 brood mares, came many
hundreds of the best hunters in the
countiy, and many of our best racers."
Good schools were built by him in
the villages; the churches were re-
stored, and new ones built ; his last
work, a very excellent village ch.,
close to Sledmere, being a memodal
of his wife. **£igh, well!" said a
BoiUe 11.— Wekotmg.
165
YoriBhireman, at his funeral, <* there *11
maybe a Tsst o' Sir Tatton Sjkeses,
and the more the better; bat were II
lUTer be nobbat one 'Sir Tatton.'"
He nsnallj rode to London and back,
and as master of hounds was nn-
eqoalled. " Up every morning with
daylight, breakfasting ml miSc and
an apple tart, over at his kennels
(15 m. off, at Eddlethorne) as early
as his horse could canrnim thither;
then a day of cheery hunting, or of
hedging and ditchmg among his
tenants; now and then stopping to
relieve a parish pauper by oreaking
a few heaps of stones for Mm, just for
a rest : refreshing (pretty commonly)
the pauper, but severely abstemious
himself , and then on again for other
work; brain and muscle relieving
each other, and both made perfect so
far as prac^ce could do it---6uch was
the routine of his daily existence;
and those who knew lum best can
best say whether partiality itself can
be partial about him." — Saturday
iZee., Apr. 1868.
A Gothic tower and observatory
120 ft high, designed by Gibbs of
Oxford, has been raised, as a memo-
rial of Sir Tatton Sykes, on the top
of Garton Hill, 14 ul from Malton,
and 4 from Driffield. It commands
a range of view from Filey to the
Humber, and is a most conspicuous
object throughout all the country.
The house of Sledmere, which now
rises from the midst of extensive
woods Aid plantations, was built
toward the end of the last centuiy by
the father of Sir Tatton Sykes.
[N. of Sledmere are 4 churches,
EMff OrMUOi/a^ Wed LuUm,
Belperihorpey and WeaverQurrpey re-
stoied or rebuilt at the cost of Sir
Tatton Sykes (archit, G, B, Btreet\
and worth a visit At Kirby the en.
is new; and in pulling down the
modem and veiy bad structure which
preceded it, fin^oits of a line an-
cient church, including columns,
arches, windows, and a noble old font
were found built in as walling. These
have all been carefully restored, and
it is curious that the remains so dis-
covered were ahnost identical with
the designs for the new ch. furnished
by Mr. Street At We$t LuUcn, 2 m.
N.W. of Kirby, there is a new ch.,
witii ^ined porch and chancel. The
glass 18 by Sardman, the triptych on
the altar by BwUion and QryUs,
The roofs are painted. There is a
shingled spire. This ch. has taken
the place of a mere bam, which before
was used for Divine service. Helper-
ihorpe is 2 UL N.W. of West Lutton.
Here also the ch. is new, and built
on the site of one which had no old
features. It is fitted and decorated
very richly. The lych-gate, ch.-yd.
cross, and parsonage are also part of
the new work. At Weaverihorpe,
a mile beyond Helperthorpe, is a mie
early Norm, ch., with nave, chancel,
and lofty tower. It has been re-
stored completely, and has painted
roofs, rich screens to chancel and
tower, a painted triptych, and stained
glass throughout]
The next StcU, is at Wekoang,
where the ch. has Norm, portions, but
is of no very great interest At the
next Stat, Oarton - on - the -Wcldsy
there is a fine Nomi. ch. Here the
walls have been covered with paint-
ings bv Clayton and BeU, from O, E.
Blretxe designs, representing subjects
from the Old and New Testaments,
the Labours of the Months, and
others. This ch. should be seen.
From Garton the train soon reaches
Driffleld Junction^ where the pre-
sent Ime and that from Hull to Krid-
lington meet (For Driffield and the
line to Bridlington, see Bte. 9.)
156
Bouie 12.— Fort to Scarborough.
EOUTE 12.
YORK TO SCARBOROUGH BY CASTLE
HOWARD ASD MALTON.
(jy.E. Bailioay. 7 trains daily.
The journey, 42} m., is performed bj
the express train in 1^ hr.)
The portion of the line between
Barton Hill and Malton, which runs
in sight of the Derwent, is very
The line to Market Weighton
Sftte. 8) branches off rt; and the
7. proceeds across the great plain of
X ork, passing
4i m. Baxby Stat (small Norm,
ch.), where the nyet Foss is crossed ;
and
7i m. StretuaU Stat (ch. rebnilt
1865-6); till it reaches
10 m, FkuUm Stat [About 2 m.
N. are the very interestmg ruins of
Sheriff Hulion Castle. A field-path
(as to which the pedestrian should
inquire at the station) passes (at
about halfway) through an earthwork
(square and nearly effaced^ with low
mounds (tumuli?) attacned to it
This earthwork is probably of Roman
origin. A long entrenchment (?)
ronning across the country beyond it
may have been earlier. It then
reacties Sheriff HuUon Park (Leon-
ard Thompson, Esq.), where are some
fine old oaks ; and crosses the ch.-yd.
into the village. .
The CasUe, originally bmlt circ
1140, by Bertram de Bulmer, Sheriff
of Yorkshire (from whom the place
gains its distinctiye name), passed to
Geoffry Neville, who mamed Bul-
mer's only daughter and heiress. The
Nevilles retained the castle and manor
until the death of the neat Earl of
Warwick, the *^ Eine-m&er " and the
*< last of the barons,* at the battle of
Bamet, in 1471. Edward IV., who
seized them, gave them up to his
brother Richard, afterwards Richard
III., who confined in the casUe Eliza-
beth of York, and his nephew Ed-
ward, son of George Duke ot Clarence.
It was from Sheriff Button that the
'' White Rose of York," as Elizabeth
was cidled, was conducted to London
in 1486, to become the wife of Henry
Vn. The manor afterwards passed
through various hands (the Duke of
Norfolk, 1490-1500, and Henry Fitz-
roy, Duke of Richmond, natural son
of Heniy VIIL, both inhabited the
castle) until it became the property
of the Marquis of Hertford. From
him it passed, with much land in the
parish, into itie hands of the repre-
sentatives of the late Mejmell Ingram,
Esq.
Ralph Neville, first Earl of West-
moreland, the " gentle cousin West-
moreland," of Shakspeare*B <Hennr
IV.'—
*' 0 W«Btmore1aiid, thou art a rammer bird
'Which ever in the haunch of winter BingB
The lifting up of day "—
entirely rebuilt the castle, on a scale
so much enlarged, that Leland says
he saw "no house in the North so
like a princely lodging." AU thQ
Route 12.— Sheriff HuUon Church.
157
existing remains are. of this date (circ
1410). The walls, which formed a
square of considerable size, stood on a
loftj monnd, and had a^at square
tower at each angle. l%ese toweis,
with a portion of wall on the S. side,
show great masses of rain ; the towers
at the S.W. and N.E. angles being
the most perfect. Two large arched
window openings in the S.W. tower
lighted a great hall. On the S.K.
tower are 3 shields, with the saltire of
Neville, and the coat of the 1st Earl
of Warwick, impaling France and
England for his second wife. The
principal entrance has been on the E.
side ; and on the W. some remains of
grass-grown outworks may be traced.
The inner courts of the castle were
sorronnded by a deep moat, which
still exists, and beyond it are remains
of a wall enclosing the outer bailey.
The plan and arrangement of the
castle should be compared with that
of BoUtm (see Bte. 24), of somewhat
earher date, built by Lord Scrope,
temp. Bichard II. Bolton is far more
perfect than Sheriff Button, but the
general plan of both castles seems to
have been wery similar. From below
the S.W. tower there is a striking
Tiew over the rich plain towards
York, worth the artist's attention.
There are great ash-trees on the
castle moond, then a wide stretch of
woods and meadows, with a blue dis-
tance beyond. Flocks of pigeons rest
on the grass-grown ledges of the
ruined towers. A good general view
of the castle is gained from the S.E.
angle td the moat, round which the
visitor should walk.
The Church of Sheriff Button
(dedicated to St. Helen) is Bee, with
later insertions. In the N. aisle, the
wmdows, nearly square-headed, show
a peculiar tracery, n'hich occurs in
many churches on the Neville manors,
— most conspicuously at Stamdrop,
adjoining Baby Castle. Here, the
windows may have been inserted by
the first earl, the rebuilder of thei
castle. A door, original and curious,
at the end of the aisle, opens to what
is now the vestry, of earlier date than
the rest of the church, with small
square-headed windows S. and N.,
and a narrow lancet, now closed,
which opened to the chancel. The
arrangement of the tower at the W.
end is very peculiar. The lower part
forms a porch, with entrances N. and
S., and ni^hls of stone stairs on either
side, leadmg to an upper platform;
another flight descends under the W.
arch, to the floor of the nave within.
The lower walls of the tower are
Norm., and show traces of circular-
headed windows. The upper part is
later. Under the E. window of the
N. aisle is the effigy of a knight, circ.
1350 ? The arms on his shield seem
to be those of Thomas Wytham, since
they occur also on a brass on the
floor, with an inscription, but no date,
recording the building of a porch
(vestibulum), and the foundation of
a chantry oy this Thomas and his
wife Agnes. The " porch " may, per-
haps, mean the arrangement in the
tower already noticed. Under the
next window is a tomb with a short
eSigy, in a robe, and wearing a coro-
net. It is of the 15th cent, and
represents a Neville, since the saltire
is on the shield at the head, — ^but has
no inscription. This is probably the
tomb of the Duke of Bedford, son of
John Neville, Marquis of Montacute,
a nephew of the king-maker. The
dukedom was conferred on him in
1469, when Ed. IV. intended to
marry him to the Princess Elizabeth
(afterwards vrife of Hen. VII.). His
father's death in 1471, in the battle
of Bamet in open rebellion, brought
his family into disgrace, and he ]ost
his fathers titles and estates under
an act of attainder. In 1477 he was
degraded from all his honours by Act
of Parliament (17 Ed. IV.) on account
of his poverty, he being absolutely
without any estates. He Uved until
1433, and was buried at Sheriff
Button. The princess was herself
158
Bonie 12. — Barton HiU — Howsham.
a prisoner in the castle for part of
1483.) In front of the tomb are
shields, that in the centre having
a representation of the Hdy Father
supporting the crucifix, from the
ch.-yd. there is a view £. towards the
Wolds. On the S. side are some
mounds which have been considered
Boman, but which do not seem to
have been properly examined.
ISitUnham, 1 m. N.K of Sheriff
Hutton, is said to have been the
birthplace (1320) of Sir John Oower,
the poet, and the " master " of Chau-
cer, to whom he is indebted for his
title of " moral Gk)wer." TheGowers
were settled here from a vesr^ early
Cod. The poet succeeded his elder
her in the familr estate, which
still beloi^ to the Levison-Gowers,
Dukes of Sntherland.
(Sand HfUton, 2} m. S. of Flaxton
stat., is the seat of Sir James Walker,
Bart)]
12 m. Barlon Em Stai, 8} m.
from Castle Howard. 1 m. 1. is
Fotion - U - Clay, the living which
Lord Chancellor Erskine gave to
Sffdney SmUh. There was then no
house on it ; the living comprised 300
acres of glebe land of the stiff est clay,
and there had been no resident clergy-
man for 160 years. Sydney Smith
first settled at Heslington, near York,
until he had built his new house at
Foston, " the ugliest in the county,"
he says, *' but Si admitted it was one
of the most comfortable," although it
was, as he described it, "20 miles
from a lemon." How he built it, and
how he furnished it ; how Lord and
Lady Carlisle arrived in their ♦* gold
coach," stuck in the clay, and were
ever after among his firmest friends ;
of Bunch, and of his carriage the
" Immortal," we have all read in his
daughter Lady HoUand^s memoir. In
1829 he left Yorkshire for Combe
Florey, in Somersetshire. TheCibure^
has ancient portions, but is in a
dreadful condition. In the vestry
remains the pewter communion plate.
Soon after leaving Barton Stat, the
column on Btdmer HiU (1.) comes
into sight. This was erected, br
public subscription, in 1869, on the
S. edge of the Castle Howard de-
mesne, as a memorial of the 7th Eaii
of Carlisle, who for 12 years, as Lord
Morpeth, represented first Yorkshire
and then the West Biding in Par-
liament, and for 8 years was Viceroy
of Ireland. The design of this Gre-
cian column is by F, P, CookeriB.
The cost was about 20001 From its
position it is visible far and wide over
this part of Yorkshire. In the parish
of Buhner the Castle Howard Kefor-
matoiy for juvenile offendeis from the
N. and £. Bidings.
Here the rly. makes a shaip curve,
and enters the picturesque vale of the
Berwent, passing L the wooded hills
of Crambe.
On rt is Howsham, the birthplace
of Mr. Hudson of rly. celebri^. On
the L is the village of Wnitwell
(where is a good Chureh (G, R
Street, archit), built, in 1860, at the
cost oi Sir Edmund and Lady Lech-
mere), and rt on a rising ground
above the Derwent is Howmam HaU
(Sit Geoige Cholmley, Bart.) a veiy
fine specimen of Elizabethan archi-
tecture (sfLidtohave been built with
stones from the Priory of Kiikham).
Its front appears almost panelled with
glass from tne number and size of its
square mullioned windows. Its roof
is surmounted by a curious vandyked
pirapet. The house (only to be seen
oy special permission) is rich in por-
traits, chiefly of Cholmleys ana of
Yorkshire families with which they
have intermarried. On the staircase
is a very remarkable series of paint-
ings on cotton, representing the deeds
of Cortez in the New World, and said
to have been found by a Cholmley in
a Spanish ship taken by him.
BoiUe 12.—Kirhham.
169
15{ HL Kirkham Stat. In a mea-
dow (Kirk ham = Church Meadow),
on the opposite side of the Derwent,
1. are the remains of Kirkham JPriory,
now bnt scanty, but to he Tisited hj
all ecclesiologists for the sake of one
exquisite fragment of E. E. date,
sufficient to show that the ch. must
haTe been one of the most beautiful
in Yorkshire. (The kej may be had
at the Hall, or Lodge.) The situa-
tion of the ruins, in a valley bounded
by low wooded hills, is one of great
beauty. The prioiy was foundS for
AugUBstinian Canons, in 1121, by
Widter I'Espec, the great baron who
(1138) led the EngEsh army at the
battle of the Standard (see North
AUerton, Bte. 16), and his wife Ade-
line. Their only son, Walter, is said
to have been kUled by the fall of his
horee at Frithby or Firby, on the
Berwent, not far from Eirluiam ; and
his father, resolving by the counsel of
his uncle William, rector of Gkrton,
to devote the greater part of his
wealth to God, founded tm-ee religious
houses — ^this of Kirkham, Bievaulx
(Cistercian, founded circ. 1113 — see
ate. 18a), and Wardon (Cistercian) in
Bedfordshire. The monastic verse ran
accordingly —
" Pro reomm veniA Kirkham donras bona
BievalliB detncepSp ei haec (ria, Wardoiuk
£flt fODdata primitns a dicta penona,
Pro qoornm meritia datur illi trlna corona."
(It is remarkable that no reference
wnstever is made to the son of Walter
I'Espec in any of the charters of
foundation. The story of his death
is told in a vol. of collections among
the Cotton MSS. (Vitell. F. 4), whence
it was copied into the * Mon. Angl.'
The local legend asserts that a wild
boar, rushing across the road, startled
the horse, which flung its rider
aeainst a stone that now forms part
of a cross before the gatehouse of
Kirkham, and then dragged him by
the stirrup to the place where he was
found, which was therefore chosen as
the site of the high altar. Walter
I'Espec became a monk in his own
abbey of Eievaulx, and died there
in 1153. His sister married the heir
of the great house of Bos or Boos,
in Holdemess (see Bte. 6), and after-
wards of Hehnsley Castle (Bte. 18a) :
and that family continued to be
the patrons of Kirkham until the
Dissolution. Many of them were
buried here. The annual value of
the house at the Dissolution was
269Z., nearly the whole of its property
having been the gift of the founder,
I'Espec. The ruins have been pur-
chased by Lady Fitzwilliam.
Before the gatehouse, through which
the visitor passes into the precincts of
the priory, is the base of a cross (the
stone against which the heir of I'Espec
is traditionally said to have been
thrown). On a particular day in
autumn, " Kirkham bird fair ** is held
at this cross, — ^jackdaws, starlings,
and larks being the articles of com-
merce. The Oaiehotue itself was
erected in the latter half of the 12th
cent; and the small apartments E.
and W. of the archway are of this
date. The archway itself was rebuilt
in the early Dec. period, and is very
picturesque. The shields of arms on
its outer face, before the cornice, are
Clare, Plantagenet, Bos, and Vaux.
The niches have been robbed of their
fiffures, with two exceptions— one
of which is so defaced as to be unin-
telligible, the other is St. Bartholo-
mew. Much-defaced sculptures also
remain on each side of the archway
— ^representing St George, and either
David and Goliath, or some fight of
a Bos with a Scottish foeman. The
inner face of the gateway has lost all
its enrichment
The only fragments of the Churcfi
(which was 300 ft long— the nave
aisleless — ^the transept with 3 eastern
chapels in each aim) are the plain
base of the S. wall of the nave, and
a single lancet of the choir— one of 3
at its E. endr— with side shafts and
160
BotUe li.—^Kiriham --Castle Howard.
capitals of foliage, at least as good in
arrangement and execution as any-
other work of this period in the
countj. S. of the choir was probably
the prior's house. The Chapter-kotue
(rectangular and E.E., like the choir)
was near the S. end of the transept ;
and between it and the ch. was a
small room with a bench on one side
— ^the purpose of which is uncertain.
On the D. side of the cloister
quadrangle was the Befectory, stand-
ing E. and W., contrary to the ordi-
nary rule. The eastern gable remains ;
and the N. wall, in which is a Trans.-
Noim. doorway enriched. (It is en-
graved in * Parker's Glossary.') At
uie side of this doorway is a lavatory,
of much later (early Dec. ?) character.
The Dormitory was on the W. side of
the doister, but only the wall towards
the quadrangle remains. In front of
the dormitory is a noble ash-tree —
making, with the river beyond, the
bridge and gatehouse, the meadow
and ^teep bulks of wood, a picture
for the artist
An earthen pot, full of bronze
chisels, gouges, and celts, found at
Weston, near Kirkham, is now in the
Yorkshire Museum.
From Kirkham to Malton extends
the narrow dale, down which flows
the Derwent, draining all the rivers
from the vale of Pickering, which,
but for this outlet, would be, as at
one period it probably was, a great
lake, discharging its waters into the
sea near Speeton, instead of running
inland and S. as at present. On the
rt are seen Firby Woods.
16} m. CasOe Howard Stat. This
station is 3 m. from Castle Howard.
There is no longer an Inn at Castle
Howard. The Black Bull at Wel-
boume, 1} m. distant, is the nearest
Inn, but poor, and (?) also closed.
Castle Hotoardt the magnificent
seat of the Earl of Carlisle, is one Of
the grandest and richest country seats
in England, and contains a noble col-
lection of works of art. " Lord Straf-
ford alone had told me," writes Wal-
r^le to Selwyn (August, 1772), " that
should sec one of the finest places
in Yorkshire; but nobody had in-
formed me that I should at one
view see a palace, a town, a fortified
city, temples on high places, woods
worthy of being each a metropolis of
the Druids, vales connected to hills
by other woods, the noblest lawn in
the world fenced by half the horizon,
and a mausoleum that would tempt
one to be buried alive. In short, I
have see gigantic places before, but
never a sublime one.**
Castle Howard was built about
1702, by Sir John Varibrugh, for
Charles, 3rd Earl of Carlisle, by
whom the park and grounds were
also laid out. These have since been
little altered. Formal and stately
avenues of lime, beech, and oak con-
verge from four quarters towards an
OhdWky bearing an inscription by the
founder, in honour of himself and the
great Duke of Marlborough. The
vast extent of the demesne almost
justifies Walpole's raptures ; and the
Lake, which stretches away before
the grand entrance, is striking and
picturesque. The ground is much
varied and broken ; one of the main
roads through the park, climbing in
a series of steep ascents to the higher
level of the so-called "Howardmn'*
hills, which form the southern boun-
dary of Byedale.
The castle was built on the site of
the Castle of Hinderskelf, destroyed
by fire about the year 1700. It
was erected about the same time as
Blenheim (also Vanbrugh's), and is
" a far more successful design." " In
{)lan, it is somewhat similar, and
ooks almost as extensive ; but, being
only one story high over the greater
part, it is in reality much smaller;
and its defects arise principally from
Boule 12.— Cadle Howatd.
161
the fact tbftt Vanbrngh seems to
have had no idea of how to omainent
a building except by the introduc-
tioD of an Order. At Castle
Howard the wh<de design is much
soberer and simpler thui at Blen-
heim. The cnpola in the centre
gives dignity to the whole, and
breaks the sk^r - line much more
pleasingly than the towers of the
other palace. The wings and offices
are more sabdned ; and on the whole,
with all Vanbmgh's grandeur of con-
ception, it has fewer of his faults
than any other of his designs;
and, taking it all in all, it would be
difficult to point out a more imposing
country-house possessed by any noble-
man in England, than this pahice of
the Howard"— JPWyiMKm. The W.
win^, it should be said, was added by
Bobmson, and is unequal to the
original design.
Throughout the W., S., and £.
fronts, the principal apariments open
into each other. They are crowded
with pictures, with cluna, and with
Taiions antiques, to such an extent
that the house has the character of a
museum; and the library is rich in
the collections of successiye accumu-
latots. The collections haye been
rearranged, and much has been done
to tiie interior of the mansion, since
the death of the 7th Earl. The
Chapdj especially, has been renewed
and decorated, and has been ren-
dered more fitting its importance
as the domestic c£ipel of so vast a
building. Of the Ptctores, those
chiefly to be noticed are marked with
an asterisk ; but two must be espe-
cially mentioned: "The Adoration
of the Kings," by MabuMy and the
" Three VUrn^ hjAnnibale CJarraceh
The strength of the collection is in
important works of the Canacci and
their scholars, as well as in Flemish
pictures of the time of Bubens. Lord
GarUslo was one of the three prin-
cipal purchasers of the Orleans OcU-
lery in 1798 ; and works from it are
marked ** 0"* in the following notice.
{YorluHUre,}
The hall, into which the visitor
enters, 35 ft. square and 60 ft high
(100 ft to the top of the cupolsO* !»>
its ceiling painted with the " Fall of
Phaeton,^ by Pelfeortm. The sub-
ject is curic^y unfitted for its posi-
tion, and ** a person standing under
feels as if the lour horses of the sun
were going to tumble on his head."
Some antique sculptures, among
which the finest is a bust of Bacchus,
are arranged here. The apartments
1. of the entrance-hall are generally
first entered; but as occasional
chimges are made in the position of
the pictures, it will be best to de-
scribe them in alphabetical order. As
each picture has a number correspond-
ing with the Catalogue, it wOl be
easy to refer to the notice of it Only
the most important are mentioned
here, and the principal of these are
distinguished by an asterisk : —
^Giovanni SeHim.— The Circum-
cision. "The real original, marked
with the artist's name, of the many
copies made at a remote period, of
the middle time of the artist" —
Waagen,
*Fen^nand Bel— A Boy holding
a ffoblet Very spirited, and care-
fufiy executed in a bright golden
tone. The cover of a table is of a
deep, glowing red. Whole-length,
the size of life.
Paul JBrta.— View of the Cam-
pagna, from Tivoli.
CanaleUi, — A large view of
Venice. "In every respect one of
the capital works of this master,
whose extraordinaiy merit is not to
be appreciated except in England.** —
W. (The quotations marked " W."
are from Waagen's < Art Treasures in
England.*) Tnere are more than 20
pictures by Canaletti, some very ex-
cellent
Agotiino CarraccL — The Virgin and
M
162
Bauie 12. — OasUe Howard.
Infant Christ present the Gross to St.
John.
Amiibale Oa/rraoeL — 2 large land-
scapes— one representing a veiy
poetical mountainous country, *^in
which the influence which BnU had
on him as a landscape-painter is very
evident"— W.
Ann, Ca/rrcuiei. — ^A Boy and a Girl
with a Cat Veiy animated and
humorous.
Ann. Ca/rraaei, — His own portrait,
looking earnestly round.
*Jn». Carrooet. — ^The celehrated
picture, from the Orleans Gallery,
known by the name of The 'Thbee
Mabys. The Virgin, in the excess of
her grief, has fallen back in a faint,
with the dead body of Christ on her
lap ; Sidome holds the Virgin's head.
In front is the Maodalen, in " her
red robe of love," wim yellow mantle
over it Maxy, the momer of James,
is in green, by her side. The expres-
sion of intense grief is marvellous.
The figures about one-third as laxge
as life. .
^Ludovioo Carracei, — ^The Entomb-
ment ; figures the size of life. Very
noble in the composition and cha-
racters. Of the holy women only Maiy
Magdalene is present The too dark
shadows injure the keeping. (0.)
Dom6mchino.-^t John the Evan-
gelist looking up in rapture. " This
is one of the most indisputable and
capital original pictures of Domeni-
chmo that exist*^ — ^W.
Domenioo jFW$.— FoHanait of a man,
possibly himself. ** Conceived with
great spirit in his natural manner,
'and producing a striking effect bv
the glowing lights and the dark
shadows."— W.
Criorg{oit6.*-Two female head^, part
of one of which is wanting, this being
the fragment of a larger picture.
Van Ooyen. — ^A village on a canal,
in a warm evening bght '<This
masterpiece of the very unequal
master is in force of effect near to
A. Cuyp."— W.
Holbein,— Dxike of Norfolk. The
same as in Windsor Castle ; and, like
it, an old copy.
^o26e>fi.— Henry Vm. An old
copy of the picture in Warwick
Castle.
Chrard Honihont. — ^The Finding
of Moses, figures as large as life,
called in the Orleans Gallery a Veku-
quex; <<uncommonlv noble in the <dia-
ractexs, careful in vie execution, and
clear in the colouring." — ^W. (O.)
Gerard Hanthont. — A Concert,
figures the size of life.
Franfoie Clouet, called Janet — ^A
collection of more than 300 portraits
of the most eminent persons at tiie
courts of Henry U., Frauds EL,
Charles IX., and Henry HI., executed
with much spirit and animation in
black and white chalk, in the manner
of Holbein. "It is very singular
that the men are almost all £md-
some, the women, with few excep-
tions, ugly." — ^W.
♦ Jawei.— Mary Q. of Scots ; Adni.
Coligmr ; Catherine de Medicis, con-
sort of Henrv H., with her cMdren,
afterwards Francis H., Charles IX.,
and Henry HI., and the Princess
Margaret; whole-length figtires, the
size of life. " Very careful^ painted
in his pale mode of colouring, and
especially delicate in the hands. A
more important picture of this, the
best French portrait painter of that
age, than any that the Louvre pob-
seteses.** — W.
JBovie 12.— Ca^le Howard.
168
Ldieiiberg.'-BetidQnme. Maiked
with bis luune and 1657. ''Is a
masterpiece of this kind, and proves
how art can lend a chann even to
such an indifferent subject" — ^W.
£e^. — James, Duke of York, after-
wards James IL Young, and with
the hair in rich curls. A good and
carefully painted picture. Josceline,
Earl of ^Northumberland, in armour.
Uncommonly spirited, and carefully
executed. Duchess of Richmond;
whole-length. Sir George Lisle (shot
with Sir Qias. Lucas at Colchester,
by order of Fairfax, 1648).
*Mabuse. — The Adobatigk op the
KiHG& This celebrated picture was
painted before Mabuse went to Italy ;
and changed his style considerably
for the worse. In it he shows him-
self *' by no means inferior to the two
most celebrated contemporary painters
in tibe Netherlands — ^Koger van der
Weyde, and Qnintin Matsys. In the
nobleness, refinement, and variety of
the characterB he is superior, and in
gravity and energy eaual to them."
— W. (The date of tiabuse's birth
is unknown ; it may have been circ
1470. About IdOO he went to Italy.
Died 1533.) This picture, although
painted more than 3 cents, and a half
ago, is as fresh and in as fine a state
^ preservation as if finished yester-
day. The richness and harmony of
cxJour afford, when the enclosing
panels are opened, as delightful a
sensation as a burst of sun^ine on
a gloomy day. Each head should
be noticed. Kemark especially the
wQttdeiiid painting of the robe of
Balthazar, and the admirable ar-
rangement of the white scarf, in
which he holds the thurible. A
small head, with hat and feathers,
looking in at a window, is said to be
that of Mabuse himself. This picture
is inscribed with the artist's name
'•Jan Gossaert" He is generally
known by that of his native town,
Mabosc, now Maubciige, in French
Flanders, not far from Valencieimes
(O.)
Pierre Mignard, — The philosopher
Descartes ; half-length in a circle.
Ant. Moro, — Mary Queen of Eng-
land in a splendid dress. The deli-
cacy of the execution, in a dear and
warm tone, is worthy of Holbein*
Half-length. This is not the picture
noticed by Walpole. (SeejMMt)
.FVaiu Pourbtu, the Father,— A
Knight of St Michael; half-length.
**• In energy of conception and force
of the clear colouring, one of his best
pictures."— W.
Primaiiccio, — ^Penelope relating to
Ulysses what has happened to her
during his absence. "This is the
most important work that I have yet
seen of this master, who fills so im-
portant a place in the history of
painting in Fmnce, and whose works,
since the ruin of almost all his fresco-
paintings in the Louvre, are so rarely
seen. The characters are veir noble,
the drawing and rounding of all the
parte correct and careful, but the
colouring weak." — ^W.
Sir J, Beyndlds. — Portrait of Omai,
the " gentle savage," brought to Eng-
land by Captain Cook from the Sand-
wich Islands. "In animation and
conception, masterly keeping, and
solid execution, one of the finest
pictures of the master." Frederick,
8th Earl of Carlisle, when young.
" Likewise very spirited in the head ;
only the attitude is rather theatrical."
Scdvator Soaa. — A Man, holding
in his right hand a white dove, and
with the left pointing downwards.
Half-length. ** Surprisingly noble
in the expression and uncommonly
clear and warm in the colour." — ^W.
jBu&en&^Tho Daughter of Hcro-
m2
161
BatUe 12.— Castle Howard.
dias, attended by a female ser-
vant, receives from the executioner
the head of St John; the original
of many copies. ''A very powerful
work of the lat«r period of the
master, carefully executed and bril-
liant in ihe colouring.** — ^W.
*BubeM. — Thomas Howard, Earl
of ArundeL One of the finest por-
traits that Bubens ever painted.
** Nobleness of conception, simplified
and decided forms, are combined
with a breadth of careful execution,
a depth and clearness of the by-no-
means extravafl;ant colouring ; one is
never tired with looking at it." — ^W.
Old Stone. — Charles I., with his
son the Duke of Gloucester. Copy
after Yandyck.
*TitUaretto,—2 young Dukes of
Ferrara, whole-length, the size of
life, attended by a servant and a page,
and kneeling at prayers in a church.
"Tintoretto manifests here, as he
often does in his portraits, the noblest
and purest conception. The brown-
ish lights and the dark shadows
produce a deep grave harmony.'* — ^W.
(0.)
* Tintoretto, — 2 landscapes, one
with the Sacrifice of Isaac, the other
with the Temptation of Christ ** Ex-
tremely poetical, in the manner of
Titian, only still bolder in the fonns
of the mountains, richer in the ob-
1'ects, and producing, by the warm
ight, a great effect; at the same
time very carefully painted and clear
for him.*^— W.
* Tintoretto. — Adoration of the
Shepherds. In the landscape the
Wise Men. "Highly characteristic
of the more elevated feeling of this
master. Painted with a light spirited
pencil, in a glowine tone, approach-
ing to Titian.*'— W. Pictures of
this character, by Tintoretto, are
rarely seen in England, and deserve
the most careful attention.
Tittan.—A Butcher's Dog and S
Cats; most fearfully animate
Perino dd Fa^o. — The Holy
Family.
*Faiu2yo^— Portrait of Frans Sny-
ders, the painter. " Not o^ one of
the very finest portraits of v andyck,
but entitled to rank with the most
celebrated portraits of Baphael, Titian,
or Holbein.**— -W. James, 1st Duke
of Hamilton, the intimate friend of
Charles I., whom he was suspected of
betraying when the Scots scud him to
the Parliament He afterwards raised
forces and entered England, was
defeated by Cromwell at Preston
(Aug. 1748), surrendered, was tried
before Bradshaw, and executed. Mar.
9,1649. (Full-length.)
Veioiquez. — ^Two children, in ele-
gant dresses, said to be a young Duke
of Parma and his dwarf.
Vekuquex, — Portrait of a Man, with
features resembling those of a neno.
Exmobled by the conception, and at
the same time most strikingly true to
nature.
Carlo Fefietumo.— The Death of
the Virgin ; figures as large as life.
The altarpiece of the chapd. (0.)
Zucehero, — Thomas Howard, 4th
Duke of Norfolk, who, after his poli-
tical intrigue with Mary Queen of
Scots, and the " Bisinff of the North,**
was tried and executed, June 2, 1572.
Four portraits, which cannot be
assigned with certainty to any artist,
should also be noticed:— A "deli-
cious whole-length of Qumn Maty,
with all her folly in her face and
hand,** mentioned by Walpde;
Henry Howard^ Earl of Northamp-
ton, 2nd son of the first Earl of
BmUe 12.— Caah Howard.
165
Sonne J, author of the * Dispensation
agamst the Poison of supposed Pro-
phecies,* Constable of Dover onder
James L, died 1614 (bust, dated
ie06); Henry Ferey, 9th Earl of
Norihumberlandn impnsoned bj Jas. I.
lor 15 years on suspicion of complicity
in the Onnpowder Plot (full-length,
in robes as Chancellor of Univ. of
Ounbridge); and Lord Witliam
Howard, the << Belted Will Howard *"
of the 'Lay of the Last Biinstrel,'
from whom'the Carlisle branch of the
Howards descend.
Since the death of the 7th Eari,
the pictnres from the town house
have been removed to Castle Howard.
Among them are —
TUian. — ^Portrait of a man with
Giorgione, — ^Portrait of Gaston de
Foix (very fine).
BubenB* — ^A wooded landscape.
Cbrremjfio. — A Virgin and CSiild,
and St. John.
CZatufe.— ^Landscape.
Ouffp. — Six Landscapes.
Oolmborou^A.— Girl feeding pigs—
a fine picture.
In the Mfuettm is placed a testimo-
nial (cost 1000 guineas) from the
West Riding, presented to the 7th
Kaxi (tiien Lord Morpeth\ after the
election of 1841, when he was de-
feated. It is a wine-cooler in bog
oak and silver-gilt, with the shields
of Yorkshire towns round it There
are, besides, forty or fifty silver
trowels, spades, &c., ffiven to the
7th Earl on various public occasions.
Of the AntiquUies preserved here, re-
mark especially some fine Greek vases,
a circular altar of marble brought by
Nehoo, says the inscription, from the
temple of Apollo at Delphi, many
cinerary urns and small bronzes, and
some good ancient sculpture. Some
antique statues — as the Gaulish Her-
cules in armour, dug up on the C.H.
estate ; a Minerva, of alabaster with
bronxe insertions, and other sculpturo
worth attention — are also arranged in
a Corridor through which the visitor
passes to regain the entrance halL
There is some good tapestiy in many
of the apartments, and some very
fine china.
The Gardens are kept in a state
of order and beauty, consistent with
the rest of the Domain. Near the
house is a copy of the great antique
"boar" (at Florence), in Carrara
marble, and many other copies from
antique statues are scattered over the
lawns and terraces. The ParXf, very
fine and extensive as it is, has a cer-
tain air of neglect } m. E. of the
house is an Ionic temple with p(Mii-
coes; and at some distance beyond,
the Manaoieum in which the Earls of
Carlisle have been deposited since the
building of Castle Howard. Nicholas
Hawksmoor, a scholar of Wren, was
associated here with Vanbrugh; and
was employed in erecting this mauso-
leum when he died. " This was the
first mausoleum (unconnected with a
church) erected in England ; and was
of course a copy of the Bonian tombs
and columbaria. The example has
since been followed at Brocklesby
(Lincolnshire), for Lord Yarborough ;
at Cobham in Kent (Lord Damley),
and elsewhere.**
(The tourist may drive from Castle
Howard to the Kirkham Stat, see
the ruins there, and so return to
York. The drive, about 4 m., is
pleasant, and there is an excellent
view of Castle Howard just above a
small church, built by the bite Earl.)
The RIy. follows the winding couise
166
Boute 12. — Maltm,
of the Derwent, through oak woods
planted by the 6th Earl of Carlisle,
and occasional rock-cuttings, blasted
VI the oolitic limestone, to reach
19 m. EtiU(m Stat. (ch. of Hntton
Ambo, built in 1856), beyond which
it crosses the river on a timber bridge
to
21i m. Malton Junction Stat on
the Derwent, near huge B<me JfiZZs,
Which are not only seen but smelt
from the Stat
(Branch Bailways run from Malton
to DrifBeld across the Wolds (Rte. 11).
To Pilmoor Junction on the North-
Eastem line, and to Thirsk (Rte.
18), passing through Ryedale, by
Helmsley ([Rievaulx Abbey) and many
points of interest.)
MdltoiL Inn: the Talboi— with
a garden overlooking the Derwent
Malton (Pop. 10,542, 1881) is in effect
a junction of three " towns," — Old and
New Malton on the rt bank of the
Derwent, and Norton on the 1. The
situation is agreeable. The number
of railways render accessible many
places of interest (Castle Howard,
Kirkham — all the stations in Rye-
dale (Rte. 18)— the Wold country,
and the watering-places).
Malton was unquestionably an im-
portant Roman station, probably Der-
ventio (named from the Derwent),
though it was, according to the Itine-
raries, 7 miles from York. Malton
is seventeen Roman miles distant
There may, however, be an error in
the numbers. Roman roads led from
<Malton — ^besides others of less import-
ance— westward to Isurium fAld-
borough, Rte. 19), S. to Eburacum,
E. to Bridlington, and N. to Dunmn
Sinus (near whitby\ Modem rail-
ways do not follow the exact lines of
these roads ; but they run in the same
directions ; and the position of Mal-
ton is as central now as it was in
those ancient days, near a ford of the
river, and at the foot of the Wolds, —
advantages which had probably ren-
dered Malton an important British
settlement before the arrival of the
Romans. British tumuli and camps
abound in the neighbourhood.
After the Conquest, Malton passed
to a certain Gilbert lyson; whose
descendant, Eustace Fitz-John, suc«
ceeded to the lordship temp. Hen. I.
A castle had been built by one of
the Norman lords on the site of the
Roman camp ; and Eustace, who on
Henry's death took the side of the
Empress Matilda, gave it up, toge-
ther with Alnwick, which he also
held, to King David of Scotland, who
placed a strong garrison in Malton.
Archbp. Thurstan attacked the Scots
in Malton, took it, ajid burnt the
town. Eustace fled to Scotland, and
was present in the Scottish host at
tbe battle of the Standard in 1136.
(See North Allerton, Rte. 16.) He
was afterwards reconciled to Stephen,
and rebuilt the town of Malton, hence-
forth known as New MaUon. The
son of Eustace assumed the name of
Vesci ; and Malton continued in that
family until the reign of Henry YIH.,
when the preaterportion of it passed
to the fanuly of Eures or Ever.
The Norman castle has entirely
disappeared; as, in its turn, has
vanished a mansion built on its site,
temp. James I., by Ralph Lord
Eures. The lodge still remains.
The manor and lodge became after-
wards the inheritance of the Hon.
Thomas Wentworth, created Lord
Malton, and better known as the
Marquis of Rockingham, the states-
man and prime minister. From him
they have descended to Earl Fitz-
william.
Malton is the centre of the com
trade for a wide district ; but it has
little other trade, and the water traffic
with Hull has nearly ceased since the
Rmte 12.— Old MaUon.
167
completion of the nulways. The cbs.
of New Malton (St Michaers and
St. Leonard's) are uninteresting.
Wbat 18 now the cellar of the Cross
Keys Inn, in Wheelgate, was the crjpt
of an hospital attached to the Priory
of Old Malton ; it is late Norm., and
Off some interest The Nonnan town
was walled, hut only a fragment of
the old walls remain. The Lodge (W.
C. Copperthwaite, Esq.), passed rt
on the road to Old Malton, is a good
example of Jaeobsean architectore,
and was connected, as has been al-
ready said, with the castellated build-
ing behind it, now destroyed. Many
Btitiah and Boman relics found in
the neighbourhood are preserred
here : and it marks the site of the
great Boman, Cagtrwn, This ex-
tended S. of Uie lodge — ^which is
built on lis yallum — ^towards the river.
The donUe vallom on the £. side is
sttU very distinct, as are the defences
S. with the Flrstorian gate, the form
of which resembles that at Cawthome
(see Bte. 14), and is supposed to be
peculiar to camps occupied by the
9th Legion. Foundations of the
Nonn. castle may be traced towards
the centre of the camp. A road,
leaving the camp by the Pratorian
Kate, croflsed the river at a ford (by
the island) and passed towards Londes-
borongh, where it joined another
Boman road leading to York. Nu-
merous Boman remains have been
found in the camp and its vicinity;
among others, the curious sign of a
goldamitii named Semlons, eiisraved
in Wright*s * Celt, JB^fnan, and Saxon*^
Old MaUon, 1 m, beyond the Lodge,
is cmly interesting for the remains of
the Priory ChurSh^ now used as that
of the palish. The priory was
founded in 1150, by Eustace Fitz-
John, for Oilbotine Canons, and was
richly endowed. The foundation
took place during the lifetime of St
Gilbert of Semjnringham, the founder
of the order, wno died in 1189, and
was buried here, bequeathing the
care of all his religious houses to
Boger, Prior of Blalton. (Under the
Gilbertine rule, monks and nuns
occasionally occupied separate divi-
sions of the same convent)
The priory stood on the rt bank of
the river Derwent, which runs within
a few yards of it Of the Churth, the
W. front and a portion of the nave
alone remain in a perfect state. The
original plan embraced a long nave
witii aisles, a tower between the nave
and choir, transepts with square east-
em chapels of somewhat unusual
plan; choir with aisles ; andasauare
eastern end projecting beyond tnem.
The eastern part of the church, beyond
the nave, can only )>e traced by its
foundations ; the westem piers of the
tower, and fragments of the nave
aisles, are in complete ruin; the
greater part of the aisles ha^ disap-
peared entirely ; and a wall is buut
up between the nave piers. The
window in the E. wall (which
crosses the nave at the 6th bay from
the W., — ^there are two ruinous bays
of the nave beyond it) was inserted
in 1844. The piers and arches
(built up) of the nave are Trans.-
Norai. — ^no doubt pnart of the original
work. Large circular triforium
arches run above the piers. The
whole of the W. front appears to be
of the latter part of the 12th cent
There were towers N.W. and S.W.
The base of that N.W. alone re-
mains ; that S.W. is v^ fine, and
should be compared witiii the later
development in the E. E. towers of
Bipon. It has lofty pointed window
openings, with clustered shafts at the
angles; and 2 quatrefoils within
circles on each side of the tower at
the top.
Foundations of the great cloister
may be traced S. of the nave ; and
under the modem house called <' the
Abbqr" is a ciypt (perhaps ori-
ginally below part of the refectory).
The ground about the church is
168 Boute l^-^WhitewaU— Malum to Searhwcugh.
maeh broken with mounds and hol-
lows,—traces of the many buildings
attached to the prioiy. A building
adjoining the clL-jd. was the school-
house of the Free Grammar School,
founded by Btibert Holgaie, Abp. of
York (1545-1556). Holgate, whom
Fuller calls a <' parcel Protestant,"
had been a master of the Gilbertines,
and founded a school at whateyer
place in Yorkshire there had been a
priory of the order.
Norton is the third "member'' of
Malton, on the L bank of the rirer.
The ch. is modem and uninteresting.
Near Norton is WhUewaUy where
was the training establishment of
the late John Scott On each stable
door, framed in gilt horse-shoes, are
miniature portraits of the racers that
have been trained within. Under-
neath is a record in gilt letten of the
hone*s performances. In 35 years,
16 winnen of the Si Leger were
trained in the WhitewaJl stables.
The training-ground was on Langton
Wold. Since Mr. Scott's death,
these famous stables have been
empty; and though still cared for,
hare of course a sadly deserted look.
Messrs. FAnson, Peck, and Shepherd
hare still training stables near M^-
ton, but not on the scale of Mr. Scott's.
An order, or an introduction, is ne-
cessary for seeing any of these esta-
blishments. On the S. side of ihe
Wold, and N. of a little << beck " that
runs toward the Derwent, there is a
small British camp; and anoliier at
Thomthorpe, } m. tower down, on the
same side of the stream ; " placed to
guard the passage on the road from
Acklam Wold to Malton."— PfttUtpt.
This road, at first a British trackway,
was no doubt adopted by the Bomans,
— since the '* street from the Pne-
torian gate at Malton led to it There
is a wide view from the top of tibe
Wold.
At Malton the rly. crosses the
Derwent, which, from Stamford
Bridge to its junction near Sher-
bum with the Hartford Brook (one
of its sources), and thence to the
rise of this brook near the sea (close
to Filey), f onns the boundary between
the E. and N. Bidings.
MaUon to Searborough.—BaO.
26 m. BtUingUm Junct Stat
BaU to Whitby (Bte. 14) branches
1. up the picturesque Vale of Pick-
ering.
Bt is ScafMtdon Parkt seat of the
old family of St Quintin.
28 m. KnapUm Stat 80 m. He9-
lerton Stat
d3im.fih«r&iiniStat The Chunk
has a much enriched Nonn. chancel
arch. All along the rt of the line
rise the WoUU, marked by many
barrows, which on being opened
yielded bronze ornaments and bead
necklaces, intermixed with very mde
potteiy, flint, and ^Hynes" of red
deer rubbed down into pointed
instruments.
85 m. Ganton Stat Here is the
seat of Sir Chas. Legard, Bart
2 m. farther, on the Old Malton
road, is JSXbenton; and above the
village is, or Was, a small cave in a
rock called iZ/WcTs or Al/red't Hole.
Tradition (and one of long standing,
since there was fonnerly an inscrip-
tion over the cave recording it) as-
serts that Alfred of Northumbria was
wounded in a batUe within the en-
trenchments of Scamridge (long lines
on the moors above Ebberston, which
are however, in all probability, British
works), that he fled, took shelter in this
cave, and was on the following day
taken to Driffield, where he dieo.
(See Vrifiadf Bte. 9.)
Boute 12. — The Derwent — Scarborough.
169
Between Gantcm and Seamer the
rly., which has so far kept on the £.
Biding side of the riYer, crosses it (it
is here the Hartford Brook) and
passes N. to Scarborough. The re-
markable course of we Derwent
(Dwr-gent (Brit.\ fair, or clear
water--4he Kentisn Darent, and the
Devonshire Dart, are far-off cousins)
should here be noticed. Its chief
soiuce is near the Flask Inn, be-
tween Scarborough and Whitby; a
second is the Hwtford Brook, rising
on the cliff close to Filey. These
streams, which rise so near the sea,
iow W., S., and £. a distance of 100
miles before reaching it The Derwent
joins the Onse near Hemingborough,
and thence flows into the Humber.
39f Seamer Jnnct. Stai Here the
railway to Filey and Bridlington (Rte.
13) tans rt.
A Bnmch Bly. from Seamer to
Pickering shortens considerably the
dk;tanee by rail between Scarborough
and Whitby.
The lone range of the Wold hills
win have been seen rt. after passing
Bilfington Stat The sea, appearing at
intervals in the same direction (alter
the line turns N.), indicates the ap-
proach (under OliTer's Mount, the
hill rt) to
42| m. Scarborough Termtnus, which
lies in a hoUow or gully running down
tothesea, dividing tiietown into2part8.
BaM9: The Grand H., the largest
building in the town, on a command-
ing bie%ht above the sea, towards
wmch it presenis 18 stories, rising 8 on
the land side, has 800 bed-rooms,
superb dining and drawing-rooms.
300 people sit down at the idbU cPhdte,
a much frequented and well-managed
hoDM. — Boyal HoteL — Crown H.,
mors quiet and select, on the S. cliff
just above the Spa; P. of Wales H. ;
both near the sea. — ^Pavilion, another
In^ hotel, close to the Railway
Stat ; Tictoria H. ; Oambridge H.
On the Nor(h Clif, a more modern
and less fashionable suburb, stretching
along the sea-shore N. of the Castle.
Hotels: Alexandra ; — ^the Queen's ;
— ^the Albion H.
In the town: Talbot; Castle;
G^eorge, chiefly commercial.
From November 15 to May 15, the
terms for visitors to these hotels, re-
maining more than one week, are
reduced to about 8s. ; or for married
couples, ISs. a week, board and lodging.
42} m. Searhorough Stat
[Until the E. winds of spring arrive Scar-
borcmgli la bj no means an undesirable winter
reridenoe.
Lodgingi are to be had in all directions.
The best and pleasantest are on the & CUfT,
bnt tliere are ezoeUent booses and vefy
good apartments on the N.
BaUwafs.— To York and Malton (present
Route, anU) ; to Whitby bj ijeamer JancL
and Pickering (Rte. 14); by Filey and Brid-
lington to Driffield (Rte. 13), and thence by
Beverley to Hull (Rte. 9).
Poit-Office and TtUgrapk in Huntriss
Row.
SUamen during the season run for day's
excursions to Filey and Bridlington, round
Flamborough Head, and to Whitby.
The most importont streets for shopping
are Newborough Street and St. Nicholas
Street. In the latter is Theak$U»i*s library.
For day's epcttrstonf from Scarborough sea
the end ot the following notice.]
Soaiborough (Pop. of borough on
April 4th, 1881, 30,484, an increase
of 6225 since the census of 1871-— the
number of summer visitors is legion.)
Scarborough is the most frequented
and popular sea-bathing-place in the
N. of England, especially resorted to
by the wealthier inhabitants of the
West Biding, and on a sunny day the
display of gay and showi^-dressed
crowds, pacing along the Esplanade
above, and the slopes and terraces
under the cliff, to the sounds of a good
band of music, is very exhilarating.
The situation is singukrlj fine ; and
all who like bustle and animation
will find them here during the season.
Bottie 12.— fi^arbormi^A ; History*
170
which 18 at its height in August
and September. Scarborough is the
Brighton of the North. ML classes
meet and enjoy themselves here ; and
since the network of railways has ex-
tended itself in all directions, excur-
sionists from all parts are con-
stantly pouring into it. Filey and
Whitby are quieter, and have a far
less mixed assemblage of summer
visitors ; but no other place offers the
resomces or the amusement of Scar-
borough. The air is bracing and
pleasant. Sands remarkable for ex-
tent and smoothness stretch away
under both S. and N. Cliffs. The
bathine is good. The waters of the
Spa (chalybeate^ are useful in many
cases; and walxs inland and along
the cUSb are easily accessible and
pictmm[ue.
Scarborough is built round the
shores of a bay whose sides rise
steeply from the water's edge, espe-
cially on the N. ; where a lofty and
precipitous cliff, or scar, is crowned
by the ruined castle Qmrgh) ; the two
giving name to the town. The old
town, with narrow, dirty streets, and
mean houses, tier above tier, clustered
beneath the walls of this feudal for-
tress. The new town arose fiist on
the S. Cliff ; and has since 1840 ex-
tended on the N. From the foot of
the castle-hill double piers project
forward so as to form an outer and
enclosed harbour. Another pier pro-
jects from the opposite side of the
bay, and fonns the larger harbour.
The harbour was greatly improved
and deepened to an average of 4 ft,
and Piers erected between 1879
and 1881. The entrance is marked
by a LighthouBs, The outer harbour
has an area of 5 acres, the inner of 9
acres.
The history of the town is closely
connected with that of the castle (see
pott), which must have been at all
times formidable and important, and
wnich, if it gave protection to the
town^ brought also smidiy calamilies
rn it. Scarborough obtained a
rter from Heniy II. ; and a patent
for a new port from Henry III.
(There is mention of a pier as early as
this reign.) It ranks among the most
ancient boroughs which sent mem-
bers of Parliament; since its repre-
sentatives were present at the parlia-
ment of Acton Bumell (11th of
Edw. I., 1283), a proof, at all events,
that it was then not one of the least
important towns in the kingdom.
Qmy 18 other boroughs were repre-
sented in that parliament. Scar-
borough still senos its two members.
The very ancient seal of the town,
displaying a ship and a castle, with
a star l^tween them, indicates its
early importance as a port; and its
great fair or ** free mart," held on the
sands and in <* Merchants* Borw**
close above them, was attended by
Flemings, who brought their clothes of
Ghent and of Ypres, and by ** Osier-
ling** traders fnnn tiie coasts of the
Baltic. The prosperity of Scarbo-
rough seems to have declined as that
of HuU rose. The town was bamt
by the Black Douglas m 1318, after
Bruce had taken Berwick; and it
suffered much during the civil war,
when the castle was twice besieged.
Before that time, however, one source
of its modem prosperity^ had been
discovered. A certain Dr. Wittie,
author (1667) of a book called « Scar-
borough Spaw,* tells us that *' Mis-
tress Farrow, a sensible intelligent
ladv,** about the year 1620, sometimes
walked along the shore ; and in the
course of her promenades observed
that the stones over which certain
water passed received a russet colour.
She proceeded to make experiments
on the water herself, found it effica-
cious, and " it became the usual physic
of the inhabitants.** Its fame soon
spread; and during the 18th cent,
persons of quality came from a great
distance to drink it, preferring it
I before even the Italuin, French, and
QennAn'^Spaws**
^i**» l^—Seetionugh
St«?Ste^ Stable "-ai^
«« Ihrim.^ I'M discorered. But
MrtthJ^ai^'* S«rbor<wgh that
^«™«*^i»mble. whilst g^^manir
171
«t the hZ>^!.^ J flfd not diminished
tWT tS?^?* "^ thepK»ent een-
-"we oeen ateadily increasing.
V;'^r!«» completed in 1827; and the
h«Tero™«i - H?«>s« "ad terraces
n«»s^ui«Bp m aU directions at the
S^S S?^ •***°K *« North Caiff,
SdLi * «rtle. The town hai
"««^ the sand, here are finer and
g-^j^tenaive than those below the
^nuB chief points of interest in Scar-
««tteated rises bo conspicmyosij^
tlHJ coast-line, and fomw rodi an
eyident defence to the haihonr, that
it was probably oonrerted into a
^trnghoTd bj the eariiest inhabitants.
Bat no tiaces hare been found of
Roman or BritiGh occnpation ; and a
castle is not mentioned in the * Heim-
skiingla '— Snono*s chronicle of the
Norwegian kings—where the first
notice of Scarboroagh occnra. Harald
Haxdrada, in 1055, before he passed
np the Hnmber to lose his life at Stam-
ford Bridge, knded in "Kliflond"
(Cleveland), plundered the country,
and then "lay-to at Scarborongh,
and fought there with the burgher-
men. He ascended the hill which is
there, and caused a great pyre to bo
made there and set on fire. When
the fire spread, they took great forks,
and threw the brands on the town ;
and when one house took fire fiom
MothOT, they gave up aU the town.
The Northmen slew many people,
"'d seiaed aU that they found>
rhmtptTs trans. The Norman castle
according to William of NewbnxirW
^ built in the reign of Stephen l>^
WiUiamleGros, Earl of Albemarle a^wj
LordofHoldenie88,oneofthepriiici*^*^
Iwders of the English in the batUe ^
the Standard. " Seeing it to >>«. ^
convenient plot to build a castle tr^^ '
helping nature forward with a -^^^^
costly work, he closed the w?!'^*::
plane of the rock with a wall ^^^
built a tnwAf wifltiM *v.^ < * l^Vk.^
built a tower within the veri^ rtlL*^^<
of the
ihe kmg himself. Henr/n^^^ ^K^^
accession in 1154 ri,,w' ^n k?
Crown lands alienated ^^^^ ^^
and ihe Earl ^Mu^.^^pC'
compeUed to resim tK^^ '^^^v^'
great tower ^f Jfe^C "^^
rmnous,andthekinircaSr? InJt^
and noble keep" (aS^ * ^^?
proclarem; to be bSt i^^^Ki^aS^
jTie castefi^ of Scarb<S^***»^t^
henceforth appointed hy^&k il^
"^ere
^^Wn,
172
Route 12. — 8carbor<mgh : OasUe,
Among them were the most important
of the northern hut)ns — ^Fitzalans,
Dacres, Vescis, and ETers. In 1312,
when the confederated barons under
the Earl of Lancaster were endeavour-
ing to gain possession of Piers de
Gaveston, and had followed the king
(Edward II.) to Newcastle, Edward
with his favonrite fled to 'lyne-
moath, and thence by sea to Scar-
borough, where he left " Sir Piers "
in the castle, and went himself to
York. The Earl of Pembroke laid
siege to the castle: many assaults
were repulsed; but (^^aveston was at
last compelled to surrender for
want of provisions. He was beheaded
on Blacklow Hill, near Warwick, im-
mediately afterwards. In 1377 (ihe
year of Kichard n.'s accession, wnen
France was directing sundry expedi-
tions against the English coasts) a
Scottish ** pirate," Andrew Mercer,
was taken by certain northern ships,
and imprisoned in Scarborough Gastte.
His son, in revenge, entered the har-
bour with some Scottish, French, and
Spanish ships, and carried off several
vessels. Alderman Philpot, a wealthy
London citizen, at once equipped (on
his own account) an armed neet, and
set out with it in pursuit of Mercer,
whom he overtook, encountered, and
retook the Scarborough ships, together
with 15 Spanish ships richly laden.
Philpot was impeached on ms return
for " raising a navy without the con-
sent of king or council," but was
honourably acquitted.
At the time of Wyatt*s rebellion
(1553), Thomas Stafford, second son
of Lord Stafford, eot possession of it
by stratagem. He disguised his
troop as countiymen, and on a market
day strolled into the castle with about
80 men, who secured the sentinels,
and admitted the rest ot their band.
This sudden and successful attack is
said to have ffiven rise to tbe say-
ing, "A word and a blow — ^Uke a
Scarborough warning." The castle
was retaken, however, after three
days, by the Earl of Westmoreland ;
and Stafford, convicted of high treason,
was beheaded in London.
Scarborough Castie, held by Sir
Hugh Cholmley, who had gone over
from the Parliament to the Kinga
side, was besieged from February,
1644-5, to July 25, 1645, when it
surrendered. Sir John Meldnun, the
first commander sent by the Parlia-
ment against it, took the town by a
eoup ds main, and then erected
batteries for playing on the castle,
and for intercepting supplies. One
of these was on the N. Cliff; and as
the approaches were carried nearer,
a lodement of troops was made in St
Mary°s Churoh, and a battery opened
from the £. window. But the castle
guns destroyed the choir of the
church — still in ruin ; and Sir John
Meldrum, after several ineffectual
attempts at stonning the castle, died
of wounds received in the siege
(June 3rd). Sir Matthew Boynton
succeeded nim ; and as the garrison
was reduced to extremities, and there
was no hope of relief. Sir Hugh sur-
rendered on the most honourable
conditions (July, 22, 1645). The
Commons appointed '*a day of
thanksgiving*^ for the reduction of
Scarborough; and during the siege,
square-shaped silver coins (value 5s.
and 2s. 6d.) were issued— having on
one side a castle, with the words
*'Obsidium Scarborough, 1645.'' Lady
Cholmley remained in the castle
throughout the siege, endurins great
privation, and taking care of the sick
and wounded. In 1648 CoL Matthew
Boynton, then governor of the castle,
declared for the King ; and there was
a second siege from August to De-
cember, when it again surrendered.
In 1665 Oeorge Fox^ the founder
of the sect of ** Friends," was impri-
soned here ; and was confined at one
time in a room looking over the sea ;
** lying much open, the wind drove
in the rain so forcibly, tiiat the water
JBouteli.— Scarborough: Ckutte.
178
catne oyer his bed, and ran about the
roam, ao that he was g]ad to skim it
up with a pbitter.** The officers of
the garrison decUured that he was
** stiff as a tree and pure as a bell, for
the7 coold neyer move him." The
esstla received some little repair by a
sabseription of the town folk in 1745,
when Mar of Prince Charles and his
Higblanden had stirred all Yorkshire
—Mid in the following year some
barracks were erected in it. But,
after the injuries received during the
civil war, tiie ancient portions gra-
dnallj fell into ruin ; and the present
gairiaon consists of ' a couple of
artilleiymen.
The headland on which the castle
stands is so strongly defended by
nature that (except the walls and
towers of the fortress) its only addi-
tional protection is toe deen moat,
with the ridge beyond it, called the
"castle dyke/' on the landward side.
Toward tiie sea and the north sands
the sear (about 800 ft high) is pre-
cipitoas. On the landward or S.W.
«de it has been scarped, and at its
foot are the fosse and dyke. The
side of the hill is crowned by a cur-
tain wall, extending from the keep to
the precipitous clifi, and completing
the defence. The approach to the
Castle is a short distance £. of
St. Bfaiya church. The barbican,
by which we enter, was repaired in
l(i45, after the siege. A narrow pass
along the ridge which connects the
eastle eliil with the mainland is
vafled on either side, and runs be-
tween the remains of two strong
(Edwardian) towers, noticed by
Leland, ^'or ever a man can ent«r
aream eatMU" This narrow cause-
way ** is cut through at its deepest,
and m the cut is built a lofty pier,
which appears to have carried a
tower and a gate, from which draw-
bridges dn>pp<^ either way to connect
the caoBeway. The causeway, from
the bridges, ascends W., and dose in
fnmt of the keep, and finally, wind-
ing round, terminated at a gateway,
now destroyed, which entered the
inner ward close N. of the keep.
From this gate the curtain was con-
tinued a few yards northward, until
it reached the 'Castle Cliff,' where
such defence was unnecessary." — 0,
In pasBing upwards towards the keep,
the visitor should remark the view
on either side. On the castle wall,
rt, is the iron cresset of an ancient
beacon.
On emerging from the Gateway, the
mund expands into a broad meadow.
The summit of the headland is
divided by a cross wall into two very
unequal spaces. The largest of these
is the *< outer vrard" of the Castle.
The smaller is the '< inner ward;**
and in this is the Keep^ placed, as
was not unusual with Iforman keeps,
on what was part of the main outer
wall of the castle. For leave to enter
this inner ward, and to inspect the
ruined keep (so far as it is allowed, —
part of it is used as a powder maga-
zine), application must be made to
the artillerymen, whose barrack is
dose by.
The keep is no doubt of the reign
of Henry il., when William of New-
burgh records its rebuilding. The
E. side is pcafect; about haS of the
N. and S. sides is standing ; the W.
is quite gone. (Gunpowder was no
douDt used, probably after the siege
in 1645, for destroying the keep.)
The tower is thus a lofty shell, ol
8 stories besides the vaulted crypt,
about 50 ft square, 80 ft high, and
entiroly open on one side. A modem
wall (enclosing the powder magasine)
shuts off part of the lower stwy. It
follows, however, the line of a central
wall of division, which anciently (as
in most Norm, keeps — Rochester for
example) rose to the level of the
floor of the highest stoxr. The win-
dows are of 2 lights, divided by a
central shaft, and enclosed by an
outer ciro. arch, leaving a plain tym-
panum. The entrance (now mo-
174
Jboutel^. — Searbaraugh: Church.
demized) was on the W. side. It
was coyered by a rectimgqlar bar-
bican (as at Rochester, but on the
ground level), now destroyed, but the
remains of its wall are seen in profile
against the keep walL Within the
barbican, on the rt hand, in the keep
waU, " was the inner doorway, 7 ft.
opening, with a segmental arch, and
in the 9 ft 6 in. thickness of the wall
a flight of steps landing upon the level
of the first floor The barbican
ramparts were on the level of the 2nd
floor of the keep, and were reached by
a small narrow door opening from a
mural chamber of that floor."
The bas^nent of the keep is now
filled with earth. On the first floor,
perhaps the garrison hall, ** the cross
wall seems to have been replaced by
a bold round-headed arch springing
from two wall-piers.'' — 0. There is
a round-headed fireplace in the E.
waU, and mural chambers in the S.
wall, which like the others is about
9 ft thick. The 2nd floor contained
the principal apartments, and had a
fireplace in its E. wall, and mural
chambers N. and S. The Srd floor
seems to have formed one large un-
divided apartment No main stair-
case exists at present, but it may
have been in one of the angles now
destroyed.
The keep of Scarborough is nearly
of the same date as Rochester, but it
is not so large, and was probably
never so magnificent In size it more
nearly approaches the keep of New-
castle, wnich is, however, much earlier
(temp. William II.).
A battlemented wall, with drum-
towers at intervals, open at the gorge,
runs round the diff, above the cartle
dyke, and may perhaps be late Norm.
A moat, running down to the main
dyke, enclosed the keep and a portion
of this outer court. A tower (perhaps
on the site of the barracks) was m
Lelands time called the "Queens
dging;" and the chief habitable
buildings were in this court
The outer ward, or « Castle Green,"
which is always open to the public,
contained a well and chapel, of which
latter the foundations alone can be
traced. The finest sea-view in or near
Scarborough is gained from hence.
The visitor should walk quite round
the edge of the cliff, which here
towers 800 ft above the breaken of
the bladcened sea-beach. The shore
is covered with fragments of wall and
of cliff, which is being gradually
undermined by the waves. More
than 70 acres (it is said — ^but ?) were
formerly induded within the castle
waUs. There are now only 19. The
view extends S. to Flamborough
Head, and N. to the Nab. The coast
trends away N.W., and is therefore
not so far visible as it is southward.
The old *Ghurch of 8L Mary,
dose beneath the castle, is passed on
the rt as you enter it
This ch., with its chapels, induding
that witiiin the castle, was eiven by
Bichaid I., in 1198, to the Abbey of
Citeaux in Burg^dy, for the purpose
of making 3 days' provision for mem-
bers of the Cistercian order attending
the annual Chapter-general there.
The existing ch. c(»sists of the nave
of the origuial building. The choir,
along with the tower occupied as a
battoT by the Boundheads in assail-
ing the castle, were demdished by
the guns of the garrison. The upper
part of the tower, as it now stuxds,
was rebuilt in 1669. At this time,
also, the second N. aisle was added.
The W. front, lighted by 3 lancets
and a whed window above, flanked
by turrets, is Early English, and was
well restored with rest of the building
in 1850. The ch. is Trans. -Nomu and
E. £. ; and was perhaps commenced
after the grant of Bicnaxd I. to the
Cistercians. On the N. side all except
the two westernmost piers are Trans. ;
I on the S. side only the two eastern-
JBottfe 12.Scarborough: Ohurchj Spa.
176
most The others are more pnrelj
£. E. ; oneon the S. side has 6 detached
diaftBy handed h&lfwaj up, round a
central pier. There is a clerestory
with single K £. lights. Vaulting
shafts — the terminations of which
dioold be noticed — rmi np between.
The S. aisle is also E. E., with
tkaniHeB opening from each bay,
dmded from each other by solid
walls. In each there is a sepulchral
lecflss and a piscina in the S. wall,
and an aumbrie in the E. The
raesent windows (new in 1850) are
ikc^ except a large Flamboyant
one, a rare instance in England.
The hbbed vaults of the dumtries
are transverse to the nave, and are
E. E. The W. end of the nave,
between the towos, has clustered
▼suiting shafts rising quite to the
roof, perhape for the support of a
great arch. The ehanoet is formed
oat of the central tower, and is neces-
sarily ^ort and shallow. A window
of Dec character is inserted at the E.
end. On the S. side is a Dec. chapeL
with 2 Dec. recesses (in which stone
coflins are placed) in the S. wall,
and a Teiy fine large Dec window.
Outride tiie ch. remark the roofing of
the chantries adjoining the S. aisle.
It 18 formed of overhanging slabs of
stone, and seems original. The ruins
of the chancel are too much weather-
worn to show any architectural fea-
tures. The eastern termination was
square. The upper part of the cen-
tral tower was rebuilt after the siege.
The view from the ch.-yd. over the
town, and across to the S. Cliff, is
veiy picturesque.
That part of the sea-front of Scar-
bonmgh called the South Cliff is
approached from the town by a broad
terrue walk running parallel with
the sands, eairied over the ravine ^in
the i^per part of which lies the Bly.
Tenmnus) on the lofty Cliff Bridge.
The steep slope of the cliff is laid out
as a gaiden, planted with trees, and
nude accessible by shaded zigzag
walks, as well as by a VerUedl Tram-
way laid along the face of the hill,
which lowers passengers from the
esplanade above, to the sands beneath,
or lifts them up the ascent.
A *Spa-hou8e was built in
and destroyed by an earthquake in
1737. The whole of the ground
about the springs was so con-
vulsed and broken, that some time
elapsed before they were again
found. A new house was then built,
but this (or a successor) was ruined
b^ the rising of the sea during a
violent gale in February, 1886. In
the following year the " Cliff Bridge
Company" commenced the excava-
tions, plantings, and buildings, which
have been continued from time to
time, imtil the Spa and Promenade
were completed (1858). These im-
Srovements were planned by Sir
oseph Paxton. The grounds are
very pretty, and afford a most agree-
able lounging-place at all times. All
the sloping face of the cliff, below the
Esplanade, has been planted with
trees, which grow tolerably well in
spite of the sea air. There is, at all
events, a thick covert, with masses of
ferns here and there as undergrowth.
Zigzag paths are cut through the
wood, and seats are placed at inter-
vals. Below the wood are terraces
with flower-beds; and immediately
above the sea is the
8wi PatUion, a large and showy
building, in kiosque style, though of
stone, with detached tower, sur-
rounded by colonnades, and contain-
ing a Concert Hall, a Theatre, Bead-
ing and (iKX>r) Befreshment Booms.
It was designed by Mr. Verity, and
built after a fire in 1878.
Within or on the terrace in front
of the sea an excellent band plays
from 11 to 1 A.M. and from 7 to 9 p.m.
Day tickets (6cL each) admit to the
Spa Building and its grounds; or
visitors may pay 2e. 6d. per week.
The effect of this terrace, crowded
176
Boute 12.^^8carb<m>ugh: Muteum.
with campuij, either strolling in the
sunshiiie or brilliantly lighted by
gas or electric lamps along the front
of the buildings, with the sea break-
ing close under the balustrade (as
it does when the tide is up), and me
moon rising over the water, is veiy
singular : such a mixture of " nature
and art ** is altogether uncommon in
England.
The Spa, it should here be said,
consists of two springs, differing but
slightly. They abound in carbmiates
and sulphates of lime and magnesia,
and are said to be of service in many
dyspeptic
Beneath the Cliff Bridge, in the
ravine, is the Aquarium, a sumptuous
building, which cost 100,000/., in
Moorish, Hindoo, and Persepolitan
styles of architecture, devoted to an
exhibition of living fishes and marine
animals, but chiefly to the purposes of
a concert and music-hall ; admission,
Is.
The well-kept ^MuBeum (6d. en
trance), founded in 1828, stands on a
rising ground near to the Cliff Bridge,
It contains some interesting antiqui-
ties, and a most valuable geoloncal
collection arranged by Mr. John
Williamson, the first curator of the
Institution, who also arranged and
chiefly accumulated the collections of
British birds, insects and sheUs. In
the lower room, the chief object (in a
case at the upper end^ is a hollowed
oak-tree, with the skeleton and all
else found in it, discovered in a tumu-
lus at Gristhorpe in 1835. There
were three tumuU on Gristhorpe Cliff,
a short distance N. of Filey. The
other two contained only urns and
some fragments of bone, and seem
to have been opened before. The oak
trunk (7 ft 6 m. by 3 ft 8 in.) which
formed the coflSn had probably been
split by wedges, and then hollowed.
When open^ it was full of water.
A rude face is carved on the outer
lid, above the place of the feet of the
skeleton. Bronae and flint spear-
heads, flint arrow-heads, a horn, pro- |
bably the handle of a javelin, and
fragments of a bark basket, or dish
found in the coflSn, are arranged at
the head of the skeleton. The body
had been wrapped in a hide, and laid
on a vegetable substance, which after
maceration showed long lanceolated
leaves, like mistletoe, — and berries.
Portions of these are laid at the feet
The interment was evidently that of
some great chieftain, — and, from the
entire absence of iron, may peihaps,
with the oaken coffin, be referred to
a very early period. Intennents in
hollowed oak-trees have since been
discovered at Great Driffield and at
Beverley ; and at at Selbr 14 coffins
were found, made of oaken tmnks
separated into two pieces, and scooped
out These were on the site of the
old parish ch., and were certainly
Christian, — perhaps lato Saxon. They
afford, as Mr. Wright sng;|ertB, a
curious proof of the tong contmoance
of this form of intennent in eastern
Yorkshire. In the same case are some
fine urns from tumuli on the moors
near Scarborough; flint spear and
arrow-heads ; stone hammers ; and a
graceful necklace of jet, from a British
tumulus near Egton. In thii room
remark also some stone querns (for
grinding grain); a cross-bow from
Sherwood, interesting in a district
which still retains its memoriee of
Robin Hood ; and a chair — anciently
fixed on Scarborough pier, and used
for ducking scolds. In a small ad-
joining room is a very good aqiua-
rium ; and upstairs is the geological
collection, arranged according to the
different formations, and wm repre-
senting all the local features. In the
gallery above are many jaspers and
agates from the coast, enabling the
finder to classify and arrange his own
treasures. The shattered, cross-legaged
effigy (tomp. Henry in.), outside the
museum, was brought from ^e lower
part of the town— but whence it
originally came is unknown. The
Boute 12. — Scarborough : Environs.
177
vallej ahoxe the masenin has been
thicUy planted, and affords a pleasant
walk.
A good modem ch. on the S. Cliff
—8L Martins-on-the-mil ; G. Bod-
\ej^ archit ; built at the cost of Miss
M. Craven chiefly — ^was consecrated
in 1863. The style is early Dec.;
and tiie polpit and stained glass — ^by
Meesn. Morris — deserve mention.
The doors of this ch. are always open.
WciJOct from Scarborough. These
will be chiefly along the coast, N. and
S., or to OUver*B Mount
SouOi from Scarborough the visitor
may walk partly along the sands,
partly above the diff» to File^
(aboot 8 m.) and return by rail
(care should be taken by those
who choose the sands to ascertain the
state of the tide, since serious acci-
dents have occurred from neglecting
it. A long detention at the head of
A deep bay, with unscalable cliffs
behind yon, is sufficiently unpleasant,
and the misfortune may not be con-
fined to that]). The coast is indented
by three distinct bays — Cornelian
Bay, Oayton Bay, and Gristhorpe.
The sea views are wide and striking.
The point called White Nab— the N.
end of Comdian Bay — ^is oolitic,
bearing above it carbonaceous sand-
stone, witii wood and plants. In
Onndian Bay (a short walk from the
Spa, along the sands, or by the cliff)
jaspers, moes agates, and cornelians
may be found among the pebbles.
On the cliff above Cayton £ay is a
reservoir for the better supply of
water to Scarborough. The cliffs
here are of calcareous grit and Ox-
ford day. Bed Cliff, the N. termina-
tion of Gristhorpe Bay, ia 285 ft.
above high water. In Gristhorpe Bay
itself, the lowest strata of the cliffs,
eoDsisting of various shales and sand-
stones, contain "vast multitudes of
beautiful ferns, lamisB, lycopodiaces,
and much wood . . . Some layers
lYorkOdni
of ironstone occur, and thin lamin»
of bad coal, and below all is a coarse
irony oolite full of sheUs, and covered
in some places by Millepora stra-
minecL" — PhiUips. The northern
extremity of the bav is marked by
a lofty insulated rock, detached from
the main cliff by the action of the sea.
On Gristhorpe Cliff, at the S. end of
the bay, are the tumuli (stiU visible),
one of which contained uie coffin now
in Scarborough museum. (See ante.)
The cliff itself is formed chiefly of
calcareous grit and Oxford clay. Its
height is 280 ft. From it you may
descend at once upon Filey, between
which place and Gristhorpe projects the
long rocky promontory of iSliy Brig,
the northern end of Filey Bay. N.B.
The path along its base is accessible
only at low tide. (See FiUyj Rte. 13.)
All these bays, it may here be re-
marked, are formed by the action of
the sea on comparativelv soft cliff,
lying between more solid masses of
rock.
North of Scarborough, the sands
beyond the castle form a noble pro-
menade, and the view of the Castle
Cliff from them is very pictureeque.
The coast is " for several miles irre-
gular and rugged, but rather low,
never rising to so much as 135 ft
above the sea, until we reach Clongh-
ton Wyke." The cliffs so far are of
gritstone and shales, with (just before
Clouffhton) calcareous rock. Clough-
ton Wyke (Wyhe is the Norse or
Anglian — it is not always easy to
distinguish — vigj a bay or sea inlet)
is 4} m. from Scarliorough. 2 m.
farther is Haibum Wyke^ a narrow
wooded fflen, through whidi a stream
(on which is a waterfall]) descends to
the sea. The scene is very pic-
turesque, and deserves a visit My-
menophyUum Tunbridgense and J«*
pienium marinum have been found
here ; but such plants are too apt to
disappear after the raids of many
fem-hunters. Beyond, again, is the
long stretch of Staintondale Cliffy
extending from Haibum Wyke to the
178
Boute 12. — Scarborough to Hackness,
"Old Peak**—* distance of nearly
4} m. This, the longest range of
high cliff on the Yorluhire coast, is
far higher than any S. of it. It
fiTadmJly rises to its N. end (the
Feak), where it is 585 ft. ahore the
sea. There is a fine view over the
moors, inland ; and a magnificent one
across the Qerman Ocean, with its
white sails and passing steamers.
Below much of this cliff is ** a remark-
ahle undercliff, caused hy an ancient
seaward slip of the old cliffs. In this
strange scene of confusedly aggre-
gated rocks and underwood very
curious views are presented ; but few
besides zealous geologists care to tra-
verse its labyrinthine paths." — PhU-
Up$. The cliffs themselves display
Tarious beds of sandstone, capped by
grey limestones. The sandstones are
ridi in fossil plants (ferns, zamie,
equiseta), and at the foot of the cliff
at Blea Wyke, near the N. end of the
range, the beds are full of shells. The
limestones above contain shells and
large belemnites. N. of Blea Wyke,
the cliff; change, showing a mass of
lias shale, generally capped by grit-
stone. The shale is gradually wasted
by the sea, and the gritstone capping
then ffdls. "The permanent effect
of these circumstances is a formidable
steepness in the whole range of these
dark cliffs, which even at low water
are margined by only a narrow belt of
sands, or a scar of rueged rock — safe
only to those who take heedful note
of the tide.**— J: P. At Bavenshill,
on the Peak, an inscribed stone was
found in 1774, which seems to record
the erection of a "castrum" by
a certain Justinianus. High Peak
opens the beautiful " Robin Hood's
]£iy," described as an excursion from
Whitby (see Rte. 14).
Oliver B Mount (so named from a
false tradition that Cromwell was
present at the siege of Scarborough
Oeistle, and established himself on
this hill— tiie old name of which was
Weapomen) is about 1} m. from the
town, and is coospicaous in every
view of it. The hill (of clay, alter-
nating with sandstone, capped by
calcareous grit) is 600 ft high, of a
somewhat oval form, and has a road
(about H m.) running quite round its
summit, the views uom which are
superb. The finest general view of
Scarborough is gained from here;
with a vast stretch of sea and coast on
either side, rangii^ from the Peak N.
to Flamborough Head S., marked by
its white chalk cliffs. Inland N.
extends the moorland towards Whit-
by; and S.W. stretches away the
so - called " Vale of Pickering/'
bounded S. by the line of the Wolds,
and N. by high ground rising towards
the moors. The steep escarpments on
the N. face of the hills result from,
the action, in some very remote
period, of a sea which filled the Vale
of Pickering. These hill-sides were
then sea-cliffs. On the N. side of &e
hill, skirted by the rly., is Seamer
Mere^ once a consideraole lake; but
it has been drained, and is now little
more than a pond.
Excursions bt Bail mar be made
to FCey, Flamborough Mead, and
Bridlington (Bte. 13) ; to Pickering
(Rte. 14, in aoout 1| hr.), where Hie
castle and ch. are worth seeing ; or to
Malton and CasUe Howard. (See
the present route, atUe). Steamers
run almost daily to Whitby and to
Bridlington, affording a good view of
the coast
To AyUm and Haeknees,
A very interesting rfrtw, which
will take four or five hours (the dis-
tance is about 20 m., but the tourist
had better arrange to spend some time
at Hackness), is by tne old IiCalton
road to Ayton ; thence up the Forge
Valley to HaeknesBj and thence back
to ScjEff borough by ScaJby, Taking
this route, the tourist should remaik
the fine view of Scarborough, as he
climbs the hill, above which is a pro-
spect tower built by Lord Londes-
borough. On the moors near the
Boute 12. — Haclcness.
179
tower are some Urge tumuli. At
Ajton (on the rt bank of the Der-
went, which the Malton road crosses
here) is a tower (late Edwardian, of
no ver^ important architectural cha-
racter, but picturesque, and worth the
sketcher's notice), which, with the
manor, was part ojf the inheritance of
the Vescis, and thence came to the
Euro or Evers family— one of the
most powerful in this part of Tork-
diire— in the first half of the 16th
cent The road up Forpe VdOev
tarns away at Ayton, keeping the L
hank of uie river, here but a small
stream. The Tallej itself, narrow
and pictuiesque, winds between steep
wooded hills, and, together with the
Hackness Vale, to which it leads,
affoids by far the most beautiful
scenery of this class within reach of
SearboEOugh. There is much ash
among the woods, giving a special
cliaiacter to the masses of folisge.
The oolitic hills on either side are
eovered with tmnuli and British earth-
works. At the N. end of the valley,
and giTing name to it, the monks of
Hackness, it is said, established an
non-foige; as their brethren did at
BieraahL There was, however, an
iron -foundry at work here when
HinderweU wiote in 1798 ; but aU
traces of it, except heaps of cinders,
hjive di8ap)>eared. Passing the Middle
Boad, which winds away rt, through
Baincliff Wood, more open ground is
entered, and the hills above the river
extend N.E. There is a large Britidi
camp on the farthest height seen.
Maelene8$ has a pleasant inn, the
Johnstone Anns, which a tourist might
very well make his head-quarters for
A day or two. The sunounding
eonnfary, wild and picturesque, is
worth esmlotation.
The village stands at the junction
of tiie Lowdales Beck with the Der-
went; but several smaller valleys
mite here —
C A nett «f tister vbIm, o'erhnng with bllJa
or TarM fma and foUage "— >
so Mason has described Hackness in
his play of ' Argentile and Curan ') —
forming a scene of extreme repose
and b^uty, in perfect keeping with
the recollections of the place, which,
connected as it is with the early
years of Christianity in Yorkshire, is
scarcely less interesting than Lasting-
ham (Bte. 14).
In the year 680 the Abbess Hilda
died, after a lingering illness, at
Whitby. (See for a sketch of the
life of mida, WhUby, Bte. 14.) In
the same year she hiad completed at
Hackness (which place seems to
have already belonged to the monas-
tic house at Whitby) a ''monastery "
or cell, in which die placed certain
of the Whitby sisterhood. On the
night of the "Mother^s** death at
Whitby, Begu, afterwards known as
St Bees, then a nun of Hackness, saw
her in vision carried to heaven by
angels ; so that, when the messengers
from Whitby arrived in tiie morning,
their tiding were already known.
(The story is told at length by Beda,
H. £. iv. 2a) The cell at slackness
continued to exist apparently until
869, when it is said to have been
plundered and destroyed by the
Northmen. At the Conquest, the
manor, which had belonged to the
great Earl Gospatric, passed to
William de Percy. Serlo, the brother
of this Lord William, became Prior of
Whitby, then a house of Benedictine
monks; and in 1088, when that
monastery had been plundered and
greatly injured by pirates and out-
kwed men from the forests, Serlo
obtained leave from his brother to
build a *' monastery "* at Hackness, as
Hilda had done before him. There
he and his monks remained until
somewhat quieter times enabled them
to return to Whitby; but a cell
attached to the laiger monastery
existed at Hackness imtil the Disso-
lution, when four Benedictines were
living in it
There was, however, a church at
n2
180
Boute 12.'-'Traut$dale—Hackne88 Park.
Hackness when the Domesday suirey
was taken. The earliest portion of
the existing ch. is the chancel arch,
which is Y617 earl J Norm.; qnite
plain, with square ahacL The S.
side of the nave is later Noim. The
N. has 8 E. E. jpiets and arches.
There is a fine £. £. arch opening to
the tower — also £. K The chancel
itself had heen orinpallj £. K, but
has now a Perp. JS. window. On
the N. wall is an inscription record-
ing the earlj history of Hackness.
On the S. is a good scnlptnred mont,
by Chanireyf for the wife of G. John-
stone, Esq., d. 1819. Above is a
tablet with a long inscription (worth
reading) for Ladj Biai^garet Hobj,
d. 1618. In the chancel are pre-
served many fragments of crosses
(foond from time to time in the ch.-yd.,
and belonging to St HUda's monas-
teiy) with Latin inscriptions, which
iq>pear to commemorate JSdilbniga
and Hwetbnrga, successively ab-
besses of Hackness, and daughters of
Aldwulf King of the E. Angles, and
nephew of St Hilda; and CSnegyth,
Bugge, and Trecea, correspondents
of St Boniface. On these fragments
are other (apparent) inscriptions in
a mysterious cnaiacter, whicn bean a
strong resemblance to the Ogham of
Ireland. (Ogham is probably of veiy
ancient orig^, but continued occa-
sionally in use in post-Christian
times.^ These have not been inter-
preted.
OvIMb the ch. remark the square
bttttress-tuiret, on the S.W. side of
the tower, carrying a staircase ; and
the windows in the top stage of the
tower (two lancets, under a circ
arch). The tower is now capped by
a spire. The ch.-yd., surrounded by
fine trees, is kept with extreme care.
Adjoining the ch. is Haeknen Park
(Sir Harconrt Johnstone, Bart.^ The
house was built towards thto end of the
last cent The road winds through
the pai^— -very picturesque, with
much broken ground, low, wood-
covered hills, and narrow glens open-
ing rt and 1. to high ground at Suf-
fidd — and then descends towards
Scalby, affording a fine view of Scar-
borough. BoSby Churdi^ which
stands pleasantly among wooded
hills, is tor the most part E. B., and
has been restored, llie N. aisle has
been entirely rebuilt The E. K
chancel arch deserves notice. The
ch. was given (circ. 1150) by Eustace
Fits- John to the Prior of Bridlington,
in whose hands it remained till the
Dissolution. Scalby is 8 m. from
Scarborough.
XJTrouMdU is a long, narrow val-
ley, a little S.W. of Hackness. The
** Black Beck** vale opens from it,
and here is Lansdale Howe, a conical
hill, which has been a British strong-
hold. Long, nanow valleys, all
wooded, and all beautiful, run up
into the hi^ moon at the back of
Hackness. Each has its own stream-
let—a tributary of the young Der-
went The moon are covered with
tumuli (here often called ** Aaioss,** —
A.S., a high mound), dykes, pits, and
intr^ushments, the most important
of which are marked in the Ord-
nance Map. It is difficult to find
any system in the intrenchments,
which cross and recross each other
curiously. But the longest and most
remarkable are (like Givendale I^^
and Scamridge Dyke) near the first
ascent of the hills from the vale of
Pickering, and must, to^^ether, have
been good defences agamst attacks
frcnn below. A line of very ancient
villages runs along at the foot of
these hiUs, as at the foot of the
Wolds on the opposite side of the
vale, and intrencmnents are found at
the entrances of the Wold valleys, in
much the same situations as on the
northern hills. Water-springs, rising
under the hills, perhaps induced the
first settlements; and on the ap-
proach of danger the inhabitants
and their cattle might take refuge
BoiUe 13. — Searharaugh io Bridlingtan.
181
behind the intrenchments. For
JUhi-ng in the Derwent and its tribn-
taries, application most be made to
the aecretaiT of the "Derwent
Anglen' Club.'* The Derwent is a
fine tront stream.]
rinstead of turning up the Forge
Vallej at Ayton, the dnre maj be
continued along the Malton road to
Button Buactl (6 m. from Scarbo-
ttnigh — there is a monument in the
church, which is uninteresting, for
Bichard Osbaldeston, Bishop succes-
sivelj of Carlisle and London, 1747-
1764), and Wykeham (1 m. farther),
where was a priory of Cistercian nuns,
founded circ. 1153, bj Payne de
Wykeham. It was not wealthy, and
no remains exist Wykeham Park,
with the site of the priory, is the
residence of the Dowr. Lady Downe,
and a modern church (by Butterfield)
has been built here. Adjoining it is
the tower of an older church, appa-
rently £. £. This ch. was taken
down when the new one was built;
but a tall cross marks the site of the
altar. Beyond again, 1} m., is Sromp-
toHj interesting as the possible birth-
place of John of Bromptont the
chronicler, a Benedictine of Whitby,
and afterwards Abbot of Jenraulx.
In Brompion ch. the poet Wordsworth
was married in 1802.
CkuOe SiU here is said to mark
the site of a '< villa'' of the Northum-
brian kings.]
BOUTE 13. ;
SCARBOROUGH TO niXY, FLAMBO-
ROUQH HEAD. AND BRIDUNOTON.
The Scarborough and Hull branch
of the North-Eastem Bailway runs
by Filey and Bridli^ton. There
are 8 trains daily. The time from
Scarborough to iiley is about 25 min.;
to Bridlington about 1 hr.
From Scarborough to
Seavner Junetion Stat, the rly. is
identical with that to Malton. (Kte.
12.)
The village of Seamer, called by
Leland a ** great uplandische toune,'^
was a lordwip of the Percys (Wm.
de Percy, at the Conauest, is said
to have married the Saxon heiress
of Seamer, dauffhter of the Earl Gos-
pitric), who nad a large manor-
house— now a shapeless mass of ruins
— ^near the ch. There was an im-
portant settlement at Seamer in the
Saxon times. Some very beautiful
personal ornaments of gold and
silver, of that period, were found
here in a quarry in 1857. Several
earthworks will be observed on the
moor. Norm, work remains in the
Churchy and not only the Sanctos
182
SoiUe l3.—fotkl(mr^filey.
bell-cot, but the bell itself. Seamer
is named from the great lake or mere
— ^now drained — at the foot of 01iver*s
Mount.
Branch Hallway to Pickering and
Whitby (Bonte 14), the direct
line from Scarborough to Whitby.
li m. rt of Cayton Stat is FoOUon,
Nose under the Wolds — with a small
he. containing Nonn. and Trans.-
clorm. portions. Tombstones in the
ch.-yd. record that the family of
Mosey has buried its dead here for
500 years, and that of Ombler for
700 yeaiB. Folkton is one of a line
of Tery ancient settlements, lying
along the skirts of the Wolds.
These are covered here with intrench-
ments, tumuli, and "howes** — ^which,
however, the progress of the plough
is rapidly obliterating. (For a general
notice of the Woldu see Rte. 11.)
The height called FdUOon Brow
commands a grand view over the
valley ; it foims the object of frequent
drives from Filey.
Between Folkton and the rly. runs
(or rather stagnates) the *'New
Hertford river,^ a broad trench
for dnining the ^'Carrs,^ as the
low, marshy ground of the Vale of
Pickering is called. This trench
joins the Derwent at Haybridge;
and from that point nearly to Ted-
ingham the Derweai itself has
been widened (and its old bed al-
tered), so as to receive the drainage.
8 m. FUey stat Omnibus to the
town, i m.
Fiieu (InnBt Crescent Hotel, on
the Clifi overlooking the bay (board
and lodging in public room, 9«. a day),
venr comfortable and reasonable ; P. H.
2na class, Foord's Hotel, Queen-
street — Pop. 4189) consists of a
commonplace fishing-village, of small
houses and second-rate shops, on the
top and slopes of a crumblmg cliff of
diluvium. Attached to it, on the S.,
have been built on the top of the
cliff a handsome crescent and numer-
ous streets of lodgpg-houses — ^f onning
the quiet wat^ng-place, aiiy and
healthy, overlooking the sea, and ccm-
mandmff a fine view across the bay,';
bounded on the 1. by the rock pro-
montory and reef of Filey Bri^ md
on the rt by the chalk elms of Flam-
borough Head. The ground in front
of the crescent is laid out as a shrub-
bery and garden, with terrace-walks
leading down to the broad smooth
sands, extending 8 or 4 miles, dotted
over with bathing-nmchines. As you
gaze upon this pleasing prospect the
ear is caught by the mystoious tolling
of a beU. It comes from the Bdi
Bvoyf set at the end of Fil^ Brig,
moved by the vrater to warn off vess^
from that dangerous spot At the
foot of the cliff a Baik Hotue and
reading-room, and several neat villas
have been built There is also a spu
here.
From 25 to 30 fishing-boats are
kept here, and give employment to a
considerable number of the men and
boys. There is a small pier, but the
inhabitants live in hope of a grant
from Parliament towards the creation
of a harbour of refuge.
On the N. side of the villa^ a
wooded ravine, accessible by f£ady
walks, leads down to the shore. At
its upper end it is crossed by an iron
bridge conducting to
The Old Church, chiefly Trans.
Norm, and £. £., consisting of nave,
chancel, and transepts, surmounted
by a low tower. It nas little that is
remarkable, except a semi-circular
arched N. doorway (Trans. Norm.)
of 4 orders of momdings, and a rude
female effigy in the S. wall within.
It has no W. entrance.
There is a commodious modem
Ckwreh (8L John's) near the stat,
and 8 or 4 Dissenting places of
worship. Pott Office is in the main
Boute 13. — Filey Brtff — Hunmanby.
182
street Filej is a quiet watering-
place, free from the crowd, glitter,
and excitement of Scarborough, re-
sorted to chieflj hy families in search
of health. Many pleasant unUka and
longer
JCxewrtions may be made from it.
Post-horses and carriages are supplied
from the Crescent Hotel, and there
are nmnerous Flys to driye along the
sands, or to Hunmauby, Beighton,
and Scarborough, the last a pleasant
drive of 8 miles, commanding views
unseen from the Bly.
BaHways to Scarborough (8 m.)
(Rte. 13J and York. To Bridlington
and Hull — ^bj Hunmanbj — and Mar-
ton (the stat for Flamborough, 2 m.
distant), see below.
Filey may be the " well-harboured
Bay,** which Ptolemy places N. of the
OceUum Promontorium (Flamborough
Head). The Bomans may have had
a station here ; and the 4 stones, with
a hole in the middle of each, now in
the Crescent Gardens, dug up on the
cliff above Filey Brig, may have
been the supports of a b^on.
jPtZey Brig is a promontory of
limestones, oolite, coralline, and cal-
careous grit, projecting in succession
from breath Uie diluvium, which
fines the bay, at first in the shape of
a rocky cliff, but prolonged into a
reef raised only a little above the sur-
face of the sea at low water. It stretches
out from the shore more than a mile,
and is reached by traversing i a mile
of sands. It is a rough walk over the
denuded surface of rock, as it is fis-
sured by wide cracks, .intersected by
high steps, obstructed by huge de-
tached blocks, and crossed by channels.
It passes at first under shelter of the
diSand then upon the open reef, from
the end of which the view opens up
towards Scarborough.
The walk shoiHd be commenced
when the tide is going out, and
should not be prolonged so as to incur
risk of being overtaken by the return-
ing waters, which cover it at high
tide. A very narrow path runs along
the N. side of the cliff, which has here
been excavated into a succession of
picturesque caves by the waves, the
strata beyond their reach projecting
like a roof. Explorers ^ould look to
the state of the tide, especially at
springs, and should be wary in stormy
weather. A tablet attached to the
rock records the fate of Mr. Paget, a
Nottingham gentleman, and his wife,
who were washed off by a wave of
unusual size H hour before low water,
Oct. 1873, caused by an unusual heavy
ground-swell.
After a storm the shore is often
strewn with molluscous animals and
other products of the sea ; corallines,
fucoids, radiata, may be found in the
rocky pools and cavities.
It is possible to walk along the top
of the cliffs, but not without tres-
passing, for there are no paths, and
constant interruptions are caused by
the slipping down of the loose clay,
underwash^ by land-springs.
S. of Filey the over-eand walk or
drive may be prolonged for 5 m., yasB-
ing Speeton Cliffs, abounding in fossils,
as far as the inaccessible chalk cliffs
beyond. Those of Flamborough Head
are constantly washed by the sea, road
and path alike ceasing.
The low diluviu cliffs which
stretch away from Filey to Speeton
are not pictur^ue. At Speeton the
chalk of the Flamborough promon-
tory turns inland ; and from beneath
it rise cliffs of gravel and dark blue
clay, to a height of 200 ft They
abound in fossils : shells, ammonites,
crioceratites, Crustacea, and belem-
nites.
Filey to BricUington,—^!!,
9) m. Hunmanby Stat. The Church
(in the village, 1} m. from the stat.)
has a Norm, tower and chancel arch
and E. E. nave piers. The windows N.
are early Dec.; S. flowing. Shields
184
Bovie 13. — Marion — Flanrborough.
of the old lords of the manor — Gant,
Percy, Constable, Osbaldeston, and
others — ^were painted above the arches
in 1869 by W. A. Tissen-Amhurst,
Esq. The roof is open. The church
was restored (1844^ chiefly by the
care of the late Admiral ^tford of
Hunmanby HaU, a plain mansion of
Q. Anne's time adjoining. Hnn-
manby was long the living and the
residence of Archdn. Wrangham.
At Beighton, 2 m., is a very early
Norm. ch. paved with pebbles from
the sea-shore.
Passing stations at Speeton (where
flint implements and weapons have
been found in great numbers) and
Bempton, we reach (about 80 min.
from Filey)
Marlon Stat., 2 m. from Flam-
borough village, and 2 m. more from
Flamborough Head. Conveyances un-
certain, must be bespoken beforehand.
Between Marton and the village of
Flamborough the road crosses the
Dane$' Dyke, a strong double en-
trenchment, with a ditch (towards
the S. end, advantage has been taken
of a deep natural valley) and curious
projections or "breastworks." It
crosses the promontory irregularly
from one side to the other, converting
it into a very secure camp. Head-
lands thus defended (though few
perhaps on so large a scale — the
trench here is 2} m. lone) are
found on many parts of the English
and Scottish coasts once frequented
by the Northmen (such as Treryn
Dinas, near the Land's End, Bream
Down in Somersetshire, and Castle
Feather in Wigtonshire), but there is
nothing whatever to prove that they
are not of far more ancient date than
the ravages of the Danes, whose
name is frequently connected with
them, and who may have availed
themselves of strongholds already
existing. The headland within the
Flamborough Dyke is sometimes
called "Little Denmark.** At the
terminations of the dyke many chalk
fossils — spongiad» and crinoids —
may be collected.
(Col. Lane Fox suggests that this
remarkable earthwork was the base of
a great system of defensive " dykes,"
raised by invaders arriving by sea,
and gradually pushing themselves
inland. The lines of earthwork
crossing the Wolds at different points
he regMds as successive points of de-
fence, thrown up as the conquering
race advanced into the country,
which was thus secured in the rear.
There are lines of entrenchment at
Arqamy 5 m. N.W. of Bridlington,
which may have been the second
station, and thence the invaders
passed into the Wolds.)
Close to the dyke, in a commanding
position, Mrs. Darner has a handsome
residence.
The long straggling fishing-village
of Flamborough (Inns are little
more than public-houses, where car-
riages and flys put up^ contains
noUiing of interest but its Church
(dedicated to St. Oswald, like many
others on the coast; he was the
patron of Northumbrian fishermen).
It is Dec., and was restored through-
out in 1868, and the chancel rebuilt.
It bel(mged to the Priory of Bridling-
ton. There is a beautiful screen and
roodloft of 16th cent., of carved oak,
once richly painted and gilt. The
loft has been removed to W. end.
On the N. side of the altar an in-
scribed brass for Sir Marmaduke Con-
stable, who fought in France under
Edw. IV. and- Hen. VII., and at the
age of 70 was present, "with his
sonnes, brothers, sarvants, and kyns-
menne,'* at Flodden, called " Brankis-
ton feld'* in his epitaph, which is
worth reading. It ends, " For as ye
see him here he lieth under this
stone," — not true at present The
inscription has been removed from
the tomb, which is in an adjoining
Rmte 18. — FUmborough Head.
185
cfanpeL A branch of the house of
CooiBtable had been settled here from
a rery early period. Near the ch. is
the rain of the so-called "I>Euu8h
tower'* — sqnare and vaulted, but
with nothing to mark its precise age.
There are mounds of ancient founoUi-
tions about it. It possibly formed
part of the Constables' manor-house.
Flamborough was the birthplace of
Sir John raskering, — ^who died Lord
Chancellor in 1596.
Passing be jond the village, the tour-
ist will find, at the Inns near the cliff,
guides ready to conduct him to the
Cave$ on the N. side of the promontoiy.
When the tide is up, a boat will con-
vey him out of the narrow deft in the
chalk or cove, whose sides are so
st«ep that the Lifeboat is hauled up
and let down by a windlass. It is
called the " North Landing-place " of
the headland (a bay on the opposite
side of the promontory is callCMl the
S. Landing; " without these landing-
places, the fishermen of Flamborough
would have no access to the sea ex-
cept by ladders down the preci-
pice*^. The caves are worth see-
ing. They are formed by the action
of the sea on the chalk rocks.
The finest is Hobin Ly(K$ Hole,
oearly 50 feet high, and ap-
proached by a very narrow entrance
on the land side. Bobin Lyth, says
tradition, was a smuggler, who made
this cavern his stronghold. The Kirk
Hole extends, acc(»ding to the lovers
of i^e marvellous, quite under Flam-
boEoagh church.
The walk may be continued, from
the N. Landing, along the cliffs, to
the northern extremity of the Danes'
Dyke, where the cliffy are 292 ft.
high, and about 1 m. farther, to the
highest point of the chalk cliffs, —
here 436 ft. above high water. The
view from this height is very grand,
stretching from the hills above
Bobin Hood's Bay, across the moor-
land, to the oolitic hills, and then
along the S. sweep of the Wolds.
(Close beyond, the chalk turns inland
towards bpeeton and the Wolds, at-
taining its sreatest height (in York-
shire) at Wilton Beacon— 805 ft.
above the sea.)
At the N. Landing-place boats may
be hired for passing round Flam-
borough Head— or you may walk
along the cliffs, grand and rugged,
and opening here and there into
small bavs, with spires of rock
standing forward, worn by sea and
weather.
About 400 yards from the edge of
the promontory, at the distance of
1| m. £. of tiie village, and at a
height of 250 ft. above the sea, is
the Lighthoute, of brick, 80 ft. hi^h,
built in 1806, since which time it has
been the means of preserving many
hundred vessels. From 1770 to
1806, 174 shipwrecks occurred here,
but between 1806 and 1813 there
was not one within the range of
the light. It is a revolving light,
exhibiting every two minutes one of
its three faces, one of them being red ;
and is visible in clear weather at a
distance of SO miles. A more an-
cient beacon stands about 700 yards
from the present one, but has fallen
to decay, i ou may climb to the outer
Sllery of the lighthouse, from whence
e view is of course wide, but
hardly wider than it is from the ex-
treme point of the headland beyond it.
Flamborough Head, the bold and
striking promontory which forms so
marked a feature on the map of Eng-
land, is the extreme eastern termina-
tion of the chalk in the island, across
which this formation extends in
masses of greater or less width, till it
terminates S.W. in the cliffs of Beer in
Devonshire. Flamborough is possibly
the " Ocellum Promontorium ''^of Pto-
lemy—although this honour has also
been claimed for Spurn Point, and it
must be remembered that the whole
of this coast has undergone, and is
186 Boute 13. — Flamborough Head—BridlingUm.
undergoing, considerable change.
The present name, Flamborongh,
perhaps indicates that a great beacon
was anciently lighted here within the
« bnrgh " fonned by the Danes' Dyke,
to guide passing vessels. The sea-
view from the point of the headland
is superb, extending to the *< Peak,"
S. of Whitby, and far along the low
coast of Holdemeas. The clilb are
broken into caverns, arches, and single
spires^of rock, — ^the most remarkable
of which are *< the Matron," and the
"King and Queen." On the ledra
sit myriads of sea fowl — ^gulls, auks,
cormorants, petrels, grebes — which
have increased rapidly in numbers
since the passing of the Act of Parlia-
ment that protects them. The birds
choose the N. side of the cliff to breed
on by preference, because it is that
best sheltered from the sun's rays.
"During the season of incubation,
boys are " (were fonnerly) " let down
the face of the precipice by ropes, and
gather the eggs in bushels for the
use of the sugar-houses at Hull, and
for domestic purposes." — W. White.
Daws, rooks, rock pigeons, and ra-
vens occasionally bre^ among the
sea-birds.
It was off Flamboroueh Head that
the young Earl of Carrick (afterwards
James I. of Scotland), son of King
Bobert III., was taken (1405— Emg
Bobert died in the same year) by an
aimed merchantman belonging to the
port of "Wye, — in defiance of the exist-
ing truce between England and Scot-
land. The prince was on his way to
France, and was detained by Hen.
IV. and Hen. V.—only returning to
Scotland as king in 1424.
Close off the headland a sea-action
was fought, 1779, between two Eng-
lish ships and the pirate Paul Jones,
who, with a s<raaaron consisting of
the Bonhomme Kichard and Alliance,
each of 40 guns, the Pallas 82 guns,
and the Vengeance armed brig, had
spread consternation along our shores,
driving the coasters into port in such
numbers, that Bridlington harboar
could not hold all which sought
shelter in it, and many were glad to
obtain security by being chained to
the outside of the pier. On Sept
23rd Paul Jones gave chase to a
valuable fleet of merchantmen from
the Baltic, sailing under convoy of
the Serapis of 44 guns. Captain Pier-
son, and the Countess of Scarborough,
22 guns. Captain Percy. The British
captains did not hesitate to engage
the superior force of the enemy, and
by placing themselves between him
and the fleet secured for it a safe re-
treat into Scarborough. The action,
which lasted 2 hours, was fought
by moonlight, in full view of the
cuffs, which were crowded by spec-
tators. The British w^ere at last
compelled to strike, but the bold-
ness of their resistance may be
best appreciated by the fact that the
Bonhomme Bichard alone lost 300
men in killed and wounded, and,
from Uie injury she had received,
went down the day after the action,
with many of the wounded on board.
This sea-nght is admirably described
by Cooper m * The PUot.*
At low water the visitor should
scramble down to the beach, " rugged
with water-worn lumps of chaU:,"
and most picturesquely broken and
hollowed by the action of the sea. It is
then possible to walk quite round the
" Matron" and the " King and Queen."
It is possible to walk to Bridling-
ton (between 6 and 7 m.) from the
village of Flamborough, along the
cliff — a pleasant walk. Or you may
return to Marton ; the station beyond
which is
Bridlington Stat, now generally
called " Burlington." The great priory
ch. is seen rt (The stat is about half-
way between the old town of Brid-
lington and Bridlington Quay, the
present watering-place, to whicJi an
omnibus runs.)
Bouie 13. — Bridlington*
187
BridUngion Quay (Inns : the Alex-
aadia Hotel, luge and well situated,
fadng the sea, } m. from the town ;
in front are gardens ; board and lodg-
ing in pnblic room, 7s. a day; — the
Britaama, in the town, close to the
piers^.
Bndlington (Pop. 1109) is a com-
mercial town, with a small harbour,
originally the landing-place belonging
to the great Augustinian Priory of
Bridlington, founded in the reign of
Heniy I. Bridlington Bay, a road-
stead, sheltered to the N. by Flam-
borongh Head, affords the loest an-
chonge on the coast, although that is
nowhere too good. Eastward, the
Smitfawick Sand, only just covered
when the tide is out, forms a natural
breakwater. N. of Bridlington, the
chalk rises to form Flamborough
Head. S. is the low, fiat coast of
Holdemess. As a watering-place it
most rank as second class, though
thropf ed in Aug. and Sept. by pro-
vinciiJ visitors, chiefly from Hull —
chUdren in countless number. The
sands, fine and dry, afford pleasant
bathing, and the long Sea waU or
terrace is an agreeable promenade.
A long Pier extends on either side of
theharlwur; thatontheS.builtinl849,
at a cost of 40,0002. The N. pier affords
an agreeable promenade, and com-
nuuidfl a fine view of Flamborough
Head. The harbour is accessiue
only at lugh water; at other times
steameiB lie off, and receive passengers
in boats. There is suite of PMic
JSoome (cost 80002.) close by, with a
fine riew from the roof.
Teiraces facing the sea, and streets
of lodging-houses extend from the
haihoor b^ond the Alexandra Hotel
400 or 500 sail of vessels, bound for
the N. and detained by contrary
winds, may often be seen in the Bay
of Bridlington, which is the only
modemtely safe harbour on this coast.
Queen Henrietta Maria landed at
Bridlington Feb. 20th, 1643, with
the supplies of arms and ammunition
which she had pnfehased for her
husband in Holland, by the sale of
the Crown jewels. The admiral of
the Parliament, Batten, who had
sailed out of Newcastle on a cruise to
intercept her, finding Ihat she had
eluded his vigilance, entered the
bay with two of his ships, and
poured into the town a heavy can-
nonade, most ungallantly directing
the shot especially against the house
where the queen lay, so that she was
driven out of it at night half naked,
and obliged to seek shelter in a ditch,
" while the balls sung merrily over-
head, and a sergeant was killed not
20 paces off from her." Batten was
compelled to sheer off by the Dutch
Admiral Tromp, who had escorted
the queen from Helvoetsluys. The
queen reached York on the 8th of
March, under an escprt from the
army of the Earl of Newcastle, carry-
ing with her arms for 10,000 men,
with 30 brass and two iron cannon.
(After the queen escaped from the
ditch she took shelter at Boynton
HaU, about 2 m.W. from Bridlington.)
During the season, steamers ire-
nitly make day^ excursions to
borough and Whitby, and occa-
sionally to Hornsea.
Far more interesting than anything
at Bridlington Quay, and ranking
deservedly among the more important
architectural remains in Yorkshire,
is the Priory Church, now the parish
ch. of the old town, which grew up
about the house of the Augustinians,
about 1 m. from the quay, but now con-
nected with it by a continuous street.
^Bridlington Priory was founded
for Augustinian canons by Walter
de Gan^ early in the reign of Heniy
I. Gifts of manors and of churohes
were liberally bestowed on the new
foundation by the great lords of York-
shire ; and Bridlington become one of
the wealthiest religious houses in the
county. Its position near the sea
188
BouU IS^^BridUngUm Prion/ Ckwrck
rendered the PrioiT' hMe to attacks
from pintes and other enemies ; and
Riehard n., in 1388 (when the French
were active on oar coastal licensed
the canons to snmmnd toeir boose
with walls and fortifications. The
Popes were not leas readj to assist
the Angnstinians in their tronbles.
When, about 1260, the Aichdeacon
of Richmond airived at their PrioiT'
on a visitation, claiming food and
shelter for himself, his attendants,
97 horses, 20 dogs, and 3 hawks, — so
that he consumed more provisions
** hora brevi ^ than woold haye main-
tained the house for a long time, —
Innocent m., to whom the canons
complained, ordered that he should
henceforth travel with no more than
the 7 horses permitted by the Comicil
of LatenuL An attempt was made
to procnre the canonization of John
of Bridlington, who died Prior in
1879, whose life was one of mrasoal
excellence ; and although it does not
appear that the attempt was snccess-
f 01, his relics were removed to a shrine
at the back of the high altar, and he
was known as St. John of Bridlington.
(A foast-daj was moreover assigned
to him in Uie calendar.) The last
Prior, William Wode, was handed at
Tybnm in 1587, for his share m the
"Pilgrimage of Grace."
The quiet precincts of tiie Priorj,
now turned into a garden, are ent^ed
through a picturesque Gothic gate-
house, called the '' Bayle Oate "—the
only relic of the defences erected
temp. Rich. U. The chamber in
the upper part was that in which
the t^poru jurisdiction of the prior
was exercised; and on the DiBsolu-
tion tiie Bavle Gate nassed with the
manor, which was bought by the
town, and thus this upper chamber
became the Town Hall. The cells
below, called the Kidcote, served as a
prison. Three Bs, the ancient arms
of the Priory, appear on a shield of
arms over the gate. In the space
between this gate and the church
a fair was hdd, originally granted
by King John to the <
The existing Ckurek of 8L Marffis
bat the grand nave of a very grand
Cross chnrch, of which the chancel
was pulled down at the Dissolution,
weakening thereby the snppoii of
the centru tower, which, in falling,
destroyed the transepts. At the
beginning of the 19th cent, even this
fragment was a rain, nnioof ed and
unused. Judicious repairs and a
careful renovation, conducted by Sir
Gilbert Scott, at a liberal outlay of
17,000L, in 1857, restored this noble
edifice in part to its ancient splendour.
The W. end consists of a fine window,
55 ft. high, flanked by two towers;
that on S.W. Perp. as high as the
roof, finished with Dec. upper story
and pinnacles from Scott s design;
that on the N.W. is of earlier diate,
with semicircular arched doorway,
and is unfinished.
The Nave, 240 ft long and 80 ft.
high (the ch. when perfect was 360 ft
long), consists of 10 bays, resting on
piers which on the N. side are £.
Eng., those on S. are later Dec, while
don S.W. side, along with the windows
above, are Perp. On the destmc-
tion of the chancel, what is now the
£. wall of the ch. was built up with
its fragment, as were the eastern
aisle walls. The present eastern
window (of early Dec. character) is
an insertion of Scott^s ; who also de-
signed the very good roof. His
window, and the great W. window,
have been filled with stained gUus by
Wailes. The larger piers at the £.
end were those of the central tower.
On the 8, side, the main eastern
piers and arches are very fine early
Dec.; the three western seem to Ibie
Pern, casings of the original Dec.
work, which is untouched in the arch-
mouldings above. Hie triforium and
clerestory are of somewhat unusual
character. An inner plane of traceiy
BomU IS.— Bridlingian Priory Church--ExcHrsi<m8. 189
driyea on the beach and sunk within
the msht and hearing of a crowd of
powerless spectators.
William Kent, the landscape gu--
dener, was bom at Bridlington in
1685 : died 1748. His real name was
Cant «' Mahomet," said Walpole,
"imagined an Elysium, bnt Kent
created many." — Richard Boyle, of
Londesborough, son of Bichard Earl
of Cork, was in 1664 created Earl
of Bridlington.
rifles MB high as the tnnsom of the
large window, and forms the triforimn
paange; so that the clerestory and
triforimn are in effect united — as in
tiie ebcar of York minster.
In the K. aiale the windows are
elegant lancets. The corbel heads of
the hood-mouldings, and the scalp-
tore laid into the hdlow between
the shafts, deserve special notice.
Against the £. end d the aisle is
laid an altar-slab of yery nnusual
length.
The font, of dark marble, ftdl of
madrepares, seems early Dec. It is
circ on a roond shaft.
At the W. end of the S. nave aisle
is a most remarkable coffin-lid of dark
marble. Below are canred the fox
and the crane, with a yase between
them; and a cat with formidable
daws. Then a building yrith circ.
and pointed arches, and aboye, two
fif^ting monsters with dragons' tails.
It is a curious specimen of Bomanesque
sculpture, perhaps of the 12th cent. ;
and had been appropriated as the
tombatone of some modem celebrity,
who is now happily turned upside
down, and consigned to obliyion.
Against the S. wall (near the S.W.
dcwr) is an iron " joug,** or collar, for
punishment
Passing ouiside the ch., remark the
N. porch, yeiy fine £. £n^. All
the details, ornaments, and leafage,
deserve caxtsful attention. The capi-
tals of the inner portal shafts (IB.
side) dia^y a long, queen, and
bishop (Edward L, Eleanor, and
Aichbp. John Bomanus ?) ; and over
the portal is a niche for a figure.
In the ch.-yd. is an obelisk raised
over a single grave, in which the
bodies of 43 sailors and 3 d their
captains were interred after the
gnat storm of Feb. 10, 1871. These
bodies alone were recovered out of
the cxews of 23 vesselB, which were
ExeurnouB, — a. To Fhmiborough
Head 6 m. Caves and Lighthouse.
See Marton Stat onto. It is a
walk of 6 or 7 m. to F. Head along
the top of the clifis from B. Quay.
At iSSetoerby, 2 m. N. of Bridlington
Quay (the walk along the cM is
pleasant), is a modem (Norm.) ch.,
built, at a cost of 4000i., by Tar-
burgh Graeme, Esq.
An interesting Exourtion is to be
made inland from Bridlington to
Rucktone-on-ihe-WotdSf about 5 m.
distant, worth visiting for the sake
of its ch. and a rude stone monu-
ment adjoining. The road from Brid-
lington lies by BiHffUon HaUt a lar^
brick mansion (Sir C. Strickland), m
which Queen Henrietta Maria found
refuge when bombfurded in Bridlington
by the Boundhead Adm. Batten. A
g>rtrait of her by Janaena, still in the
all, was a gift from her to its owner.
The Churck of Budstone, restored in
1861, has a Norm, tower (the upper
windows are restorations) with a good
Norm, arch opening into the nave,
and a small shuttered window above
it^; an early Dec. (circ. 1280) chancel,
and a later (circ 1330) nave. The
aisle windows (Dec.) are facsimiles of
the originals. The font, curiously
diapered, is Norm. The modem
stained glass is byCapronnier (in the
chancel), and by Hodgson of York (in
the aisles). The architect of the
190
Bottte 14.— Fori to WhOhy.
restoration was Fowler Jones, under
whose direction the chancel was (in
1869) elaborately decorated with flow-
ing patterns, inscriptions, the emblems
of our Lord's passion, and those of
the 4 Evangelists. The reredos is of
Ancaster stone, having panels filled
with Minton*s tiles. The ch. was
restored as a memorial to Matilda
Bosvill.
The SUme^ which no doubt gave
name to the parish (Bod^egUin in
Domesday), adjoins the NJ!. end of
tiie chanceL Its height is 24 ft;
breadth, 5 ft 10 in. ; thickness, 2 ft.
3 in.; weight, 46 tons. Its deptti
nnderffround, as tested br Sir W.
Striddand, is equal to the height
above. *' The stone is a fine-grained
grit, such as might easily be obtained
on the northerly moorlands, about
Qoughton beyond Scarborough, to
which ancient British settlement a
road led from Rudstone by Burton
Fleming and Staxton.**--F^iZZijM. It
IS probably a Celtic menhir, and is at
any rate one of the largest ^ standing
stones " in Great Britain. (LitJOe Bud-
stone is a village on the Wolds about
4 m. S. ; and near Di'ewton (adjoining
S. Cave, a little N. of the Humber)
is the name of Budttons Walky ap-
parently marking the line of an
ancient road.) A Boman road, point-
ing in the direction of Filey, has been
traced near Budstone; and £. of
the ch. are many pits, the supposed
foundations of a Bntish village. The
dreary Wolds in this neighbourhood
(for a general account see Bte. 11)
are covered with entrenchments and
** hones," of uncertain date and cha<
racter. One of the principal " Gyp-
seys" (the g is hara), as the vari-
able and intermittent streams which
appear on the surface of the chalk
vallevs are called, runs by Budstone
to the sea at Bridlington. They
resemble the Kentish " nailboumes **
(also in the chalk), bursting forth
with violence alter wet seasons, and
sometimes quite dry for m(mths to-
gether.
Adjoining Budstone is Thorps HaU
(Hon. Mrs. Bosvile). By making a
round of a few miles. Burton Agnes
(Bte. 9) mar be visited in the drive
back to Bndlington. Between the
villages of Wold Newton and North
Burton, and close to one of the
*<gypsey" streams, is a remarkable
b^TOw called WiUey-houe, which
was partly excavated in 1857, but
without ronilt
ROUTE 14.
YORK TO WHITBY, BY MALTON AHD
PICKERINa
Bail.— The distance is 60|m. The
quickest trains perform the journey in
2ihr8.
From York to BiUington JuneL
(26 mO the line is the same as that
from York to Scarborough. (Bte. 12.)
At this point the Whitby line turns off
N. ; and crossing the Derwent (here a
very small stream) not far from its
junct with the Rye, reaches
3Si m. Marishes Boad Stat The
country here is dreary and uninterest-
ing.
||3 m. rt is ThomUm Chwnh, in
which is an effi^, said to be that of Sir
Richard Cholmley, called "the Great
Black Knight of the North,** from his
stature and eompleadon. Ha died in
BotUe IL— Pickering : Castle.
191
1578, at Boxbj Castle, not far from
Thornton, built bj his father. Sir
Boger, aboat 1520. Only foundations
remain.]
3 m. farther we reach
87 m. Pickering Jnnct. Stat (Pop.
5199\ where the ch. and castle are
worth a visit The rlj^ passes between
the castle and the Pickering Beck,
which flows S. to join the ]>Brwent.
(Inn: the Black Swan, homelj but
dean — the k^rs of the castle are kept
at the Bay Horse.) A railway con-
nects Pickering with Helmsley (Dun-
combe Park and Bievaulx Abbey) by
Kiikby Moorside and Sinnington,
joining the line between Think and
Kaltcn. (Bte. 18a.)
BaHway from Pickering to Scar-
borough by Seamer Jnnct (Boutel2.)
The small town of Pickering,
although no doubt a very ancient
settlement (it was founded, says tra-
dition, by a British king, Perdurus,
who lost his ring in the river, and
bad it restwed to him by Apike), has
derived all its importance from its
castle, which, situated at the entrance
of the hill country, defended the ap-
proaches to that, and also conmianded
great part of the Vale of Pickering,
a level district extending quite to t&e
tea between the oolitic (northern)
hills and the Wolds ; and for some
distance W. of the town. The district
called the Lyihe of Pickering is nearly
conterminous with the vale. The
castle and town, with a great part of
the Lythe, belong to the Duchy of
Lancaster.
8L Peter's ^Oiwreky restored 1861
and 79, and partly rebuilt, is interest-
ing, ^th a Ttans.-Norm. tower,
having a spire and additions of the
Dec neriod (14th cent). The nave
bas (N. side) Norman pillars and
arches with plain caps. On tiie S.
Bide the piers are Truis., with leafed
caps, as are the transept arches (the
caps of that N. have grotesque and
hideous heads at the angles). In the
S. aisle a large stoup remains ; and in
the W. end is a Norman font The
windows have flowine tracery; and
the square-headed clerestory lights
seem also Dec. The chancel is Dec.
with modem glass, except some old
in the E. window. Bemark the
sculpture (fightin|^ dragons) on the
capitals of the sedHla shEifts. In the
chancel are placed two fine effigies — ^a
cross-legged knight, temp. Edward I.
(removed from the N. aisle of the
nave, where it was seen by Camden),
in mail, with plates at the knees and
elbows. The arms on the shield and
surcoat are those of Bruce — ^which
family had, says Leland, ** a numor-
place here called BruceV HalL^* Near
this is a completely mutilated effigy,
temp. Bich. II. ; suid opposite, those
of a knifi^ht and lady, of the same
reign. The knight has a chapel de
fer with wreath, a collar of SS. The
lady wears the deeveless *' cote hardi,"
wiuL rich mantle, and a narrower
collar of SS. than her husband. Her
hair is gathered under a jewelled
caul. Probably these are emgies of
some occupants of the castle under
the Crown. In the church is buried
William Marshall, bom 1745, at Sin-
ningUm, W. of Pickering, died 1818.
He was one of the most active agri-
culturists of his lime, andpublish^ a
* Survey of the Bural Economy of
England,' in 12 octavos.
Pickering *Ca$tle, which stands
on high ground N. of the town, was
in the hands of the Crown temp.
Henry IH., when Lord Dacre was
made Castellan. It was afterwards
g'ven to Edmund, son of Henry III.,
JFOL whom it passed to his son, the
great Earl of Lancaster, beheaded at
Pontefract (See Bte. 28.) The
Earl's forfeited estates were restored
to his heirs; and the castle and
manor have since been attached to
the Duchy of Lancaster. Henry of
193
Boute 14. — Pickering — Loilingham,
Lancaster after landing (1399) at
BaTenspnm (see Bte. 6) came at
once to this castle, whidi the king
had seized. It was immediately sur-
rendered to him; and Bicharid IL
was detained as a prisoner in this
Lancastrian stronghold before his
removal to Pontenact The castle
was besieged and ruined during the
civil war, when a lai^ge breach was
made in the W. side of it
Pickering Castle "hath a pleasant
seat," and commands a superb view
over the richly - wooded country
stretching away W. and S. There
are fine sycamores and ash-trees
about the castle itself, especially on
the £. side. On the W. it overhanes
the Pickering brook. A strong wall,
with towers at intervals, went round
the castle, adapting itself to the
form of the hilL Cross walls divided
the whole area into 8 courts; and
where these walls met is the keep.
Both the outer wall and the keep were
suiTounded by a deep fosse. Left of
the main entrance is the Mill Tower,
vrith a staircase rising to a small
watch-turret The view from this
tower is very beautiful. The remains
of a strong wall, of a fosse in front of
it (carried to the outer wall from the
fosse of the keep), and of a square
tower commanding the inner portal,
are crossed in passing to the inner
court, where is a small £. E. chapel,
now desecrated. Beyond it, in the
outer wall, is a late Norman portal,
blocked up. The tower next to this
^n the outer wall) is the " Devil's
Tower," well built, and showing, on
the inner front, doorways opening to
a passage on the top of the wall. Be-
yond again fbut in the outer court)
18 Bosamund s Tower (the name is
not of uncommon occurrence in earlier
castles), the shell of which, 8 stories
high, is nearly perfect. All these
towers seem Edwardian (Edward I.),
but there is little architectural detau,
and the shoulder arch, which occun
in the portals, was in use for a veiy
long period. In Leland's time there
were foor towers in the outer court, '
and four (the keep being one) in the |
inner. Many of these have been
utterly ruined. The keep, on a lofty
mound, has been multangular;
but only a few arrow-slits remun
in its ruined walls. The most
picturesque bits for the sketcher are
on the E. side, where the keep fosse
is filled with trees, and where the
outer towers group not badly. Outride
the castle there is a striking view of
Bosamund's tower, with large ash-
trees rising beside it At the foot of
the Devil s Tower is an arched sally-
port, opening to the fosse.
Ladingham (Pop. 1473. It was
3748 in 1871), a place of great in-
terest to the historical antiquary on
account of its old Church (Bte. 18a.),
is 7 m. frmn Pickering. The road runs
along the slopes and under the " nabs "*
of tiie calcareous hills (see post).
The pedestrian may arrange to walk
from Lastingham up Boeedale,
where (at the village) is a respect-
able Inn, and thence across the high
moors to Egton and Grosmont, where
he will join the Whitby rly. — See for
this walk, Excumtm from WkUby,
The views are very fine.
[At ThomtonU'Dale, 2 m. S. £.
from Pickering, is a grammar-school
of some note, founded by Elix. Vis-
countess Lumley, in 1657. Thornton
Hall is the seat of the Bev. J. B.
Hill, who holds Pickering Castle
under the Crown.
The vill^e of MiddleUm (1 m.)
has a fine Chureh with Norm, tower
and arcade; an old cross is walled
into it Within are old oak-staUs and
an inlaid pulpit]
Pickering stands at the entrance
of the hill country which forms the
greater part of N.E. Yorkshire;
extending from the sea to the great
vales of York and Mowbray, of
which it forms the eastern boundary ;
and thus embracing Cleveland as
BoiUe 14. — Torkihire Moan — Cawthome.
193
well as the district usually known as
the '* Yorkshire Moore." N. of the
"Eek, the hills consist of lias, capped
by sandstones. S. of the Esk, the
land is f onned on an axis that runs
nearly E. and W. from the peak (S.
of Bobin Hood^s Bay), through
Lilhoe Cross, Balph Cross, and
Burton Head, to Cold Moor (S. of
Stokesley). The highest point is
Burton Head, 1485 It. From this
high axis short glens pass N. and S.,
carrying streams which join the Esk
N., and the Derwent S. " Thus the
wide m.oor]ands are split into many
romantic dales, often edged witn
rocky borders, and somewhat en-
riched with wood along the course of
the * beck.' "— Phillip. These hills
consist of lower oolitic strata (arena-
ceous), based upon lias: and, based
upon tiieir slope, to the S., is a ranse
of upper oolitic (calcareous) hi]&,
of less altitude, rising gradually
from the sea at Scarborougn Castle
to Hambledon End (1300 ft.), and
then diminishing southward. This
terrace-like range is sharply escarped
to the N., showing cliffs along every
stream. Its hill-ends are called
^ nabs,** (Danish, nxb, a rocky head-
land) and, as usual on the limestone,
they are greener, more wooded, and
less ooverod with heather than the
arenaceous hiUs N. A remark-
able dyke of dark-coloured basalt,
about 60 ft in horizontal thickness,
penetrates the strata for a length of
60 miles from Cockfield Fell, in
Duiham, across the Tees to Eskdale,
ending within 4 m. of the sea S.W.
of Whitby. Through a succession of
glens in Uiese hills tiie rly. is carried
to Whitby.
The rly. from Pickering to Whitby
(at first a horse rly. constructed by
the elder Stephenson) is one of the
roost picturesque lines in England.
It runs through a series of narrow
dales until it reaches the valley of
the Esk, which it follows to Whitby.
The traveller should try to get a
[YoMhire.']
good view from the window of the
carriage for the whole distance.
(From any of the stations on this
line very pleasant moorland walks
may be taken rt. and L)
Much of this country was within
the liberties of the forest of Pickering,
an ancient royal hunting-ground at-
tached to the castle.
The Castle of Pickering is first
passed rt on its mound above the
stream. The rly. then advances up
the valley watered by the Pickering
beck, the sides of which are richly
clothed by wood and plantation. The
meadows bordering tne beck, and the
side valleys wluch here and there
open out, are pleasant; but the best
bits of scenery are at the junct of
the Levisham beck with the larger
stream, about 1} m. from the Levis*
ham stat. Crossing a broad patch
of rough ground, covered with patches
of meadow-sweet and bog myrtle
(Myrioa gale), we reach
43 m. from Tork, LeMtam Stat
Bt. (btit not seen) is the village of
Levisham (church rebuilt 1804).^
The Boman camps at CawOtome
are 2 m. from the Levisham Stat
These camps are on the ascertained
line of a Boman road which ran from
(or near) Malton to tiie sea at
" Dunum-Sinus " (the bay N.B. of
Whitby). They are 4 in number,
and are placed (close together) on the
very edge of the escarpment formed
by the calcareous (upper oolitic) hills
(see anie). Their position is thus
strongly defended N. The three most
westerly of the camps have only a
single agger ; and (from their peculiar
entrances — ^found also at Old Malton
and at places more certainly known to
have been held by the 9th legion) it
has been conjectured that they were
raised by this body of troops. The
most eastern camp, which is perfectly
194
Bouie 14. — OropUm — NewUm.
square, has a donble ditch and vallum,
and was a more permanent station.
The Roman road runs through it from
£. to W., and then turning N. descends
the face of the hill This camp too
commands bj far the widest view,
looking N. up Bosedale and over the
moors, and S. over a vast stretch of
country in the direction of York.
All the camps are overgrown with
heath and furze, and the stag's horn
moss is to be found in and about
them. Thewild surrounding country
is covered with British intrenchments
— ^howes — standing stones — ^and pits
of ancient villages; indications of a
numerous popuation of shepherds
and hunters, whom the permanent
camp would keep in some awe.
The remarkable manner in which
these calcareous hills are scarped is
well seen from this stat E. and W.
of the camps the headlands projects
like a long line of sea-cMs.
Not quite 1 m. W. of the camps is
the village of Orcmton (where is a
small Inn, at whi^ the pedestrian
maj find rough, but dean, sleeping-
auarters). W. of the modem ch. is
^e remarkable mound of " TaUgarih
hiEL " (the hall garth — a name often
found applied to the sites of im-
portant Saxon houses. It is sur-
rounded by a kind of fosse, and has
some outworks about it — a double
ditch of great strength sweeping
round the base of the mil. This is a
good specimen of the mounds called
«• raths^' by Prof. Phillip. (There are
others at Lofthoose, Kildale, Kippax,
and elsewhere, the largest and most
important being that of Barwick in
Elmete ; see Bte. 42.) Such mounds
are generally found at the termina-
tions of ancient villages. They have
not been properly examined, and it is
uncertain whether they are sepulchral,
for defence, " moat-huls " for the ad-
ministration of justice, or, as is perhaps
most likely, the raised foundation for
a house protected by fosse and pali-
sades. There is a superb view from
this mound, with Lastingham nestling
under the hills I., and the coontrj
toward Helmsley beyond it. In front
extends Botedale (Bhos, Celtic, a
moor (?) but the etymology is doubt-
ful : see Boseberry Topping, Rt^. 15),
wide, tree-dotted, and stretching its
sweeps of heather towards the up]>er
[Under SaUergcUe brow, about
3 m. rt. of the Levisham Stat., is a
narrow glen in the calcareous hills,
called the Hole of Horcum. Here
the mountain-plant " Comus suecica ^
is found — its only known habitat S.
of the Scottish Highlands and the
Cheviots. Bldkey-topping, a singu-
lar tumulus - shaped hill, is con-
spicuous N. There are some pic-
turesque scenes on the moors in this
direction, over which the tourist may
walk and find his way back to Picker-
ing. Fringing the elen of the Dolby
Beck (the upper vaUey is called Doe-
dale-^if) are the Bridestones, natural
rocks, but so curioosly-shaped as to
have received the name constantly
given in this district to primeval
stone monuments.]
1. is NewtoHt from which the dale
we are now entering is named. (A
small Church, in a beautiful posi-
tion on the edge of the moors, was
consecrated here in 1870.) This
part of the line, between Ijeviaham
and Goathland, is the most pic-
turesque. The valley widens and
contracts in a remarkable manner,
and the rly., as it follows its wind-
ings, opens scene after scene of great
interest. The hill-sides, rising on
either side to a height of about 500
ft., are generally rough, with copee
and heaSi, and with broken scars,
some of which are fine. The most
striking of these rock ranges is on the
1., and will be recognised by its semi-
circular form. This is KUlingnoble
Scar J lone celebrated for its breed of
hawks, wnich (accc^rding to evidence
given in 1612, on a commission for
JBottte U.—Ooathland—Beck Holes— Wheddale.
196
aacertaining the privileges of Gpath-
land) the inhabitants of the dale
"were charged to watch for the
king's use." A small pool at the
foot of the scar is called ^* NewUm
Dale WeU/* and a fair was long held
here on Midsummer Simda7,to which
all the people of the district resorted,
in order to perform certain ceremonies
which ensured them the ** blessing of
the well."
Patting out of Newton Dale, the
Tiew becmnes wide and open. But
the forms of the distant hills, as
seen from this more open vallej and
from, parts of Newton Dale, are low,
heavy, and unpicturesque, and the
Interest is confined to Ihe actual
sides of the dale. On the moors 1. is
July Fork, a villaee marking the site
of a castle (St Julian's— there was
perhaps a hospice attached to it — St.
Julian was the patron of travellers)
of the Mauleys. 40 jds. W. of the
Tillages, the Soman road to Dunslej
rthe same that passes through the
Cawthome Camps) may be traced
among the heather. It is here about
12 ft. broad.
The rly. turns N.B. through the
Vale of GoaOdand, in the farther
part of which the sceneiy becomes
again beautiful. Before reaching
(^thland Stat, the rly. turns aeain
rt to avoid a most formidable incline
(up and down which the carnages
were dragged by ropes) on the Ime
first coi^ructed. This passage,
which occupied from 5 to 10 min.,
and was accompanied by doleful
noises from the tightening of the
ropes, tried the nerves of most
pasBengezs: and a frightful accident
that occurred in 1863 from the
breaking of one of these ropes, led to
its being abandoned. The rly. now
descends tiie EUerheek glen at Beck
Holes. JhboU House, a farm 1., was
a hunting-seat (?) of the Abbots of
Whitby. Beyond it, we reach
Q<HUkkMd MiU Stalt., where is a
small waterfall on the Ellerbeck,
worth notice.
On the moor, IJ m. 1., is a place
called Killing Pits, which is no
doubt the site of a British village.
The hut foundations resemble those
at Egton (see post, Exc. from Whitby)
and at Danby (Ete. 15).
The highest point (850 ft.) on the
hills adjoining the rly. is marked by
Simon Howe, a large tomulus, near
which are 3 upright stones. The
name (conmiemorative in all pro-
bability of Sigmund, one of the
earliest Teutonic heroes, who is re-
corded at Simonsbury on the Black-
down hills between I)evon and Somer-
set, at Simon's Bath on Exmoor, at
Simon's Seat on the ridge between
the valleys of Wharfe and Nidd, and
in many other places) indicates per-
haps the line of an ancient division
or " march ** between distinct tribas.
It is on the axis of the oolitic hiUs.
(See ante.)
[The hamlet of Seek Holes (to be
reached from Goathland Mill Stat.)
is picturesquely placed at the junc-
tion of the Wheeldale and Eller-
beck streams; which descend rt.
and 1. through narrow glens, con-
taining some very pleasing scenery.
(There are smelting furnaces at Beck
Hole; and ironstone is quarried
here.^ The Ellerbeck glen (rtO is at
first bare of wood, and the rocks rise
steeply from the edge of the beck.
There is more wood higher up; and
at about 1^ m. from the main valley,
Thomason Foss, a small but pic-
turesque waterfall, is reached, worth
the sketcher's attention. Osmunda
regalis grows here in profusion. There
is a second waterfall farther up the
stream, which may be reached by
winding round the rocks on the 1.
The WhedddU glen (1.) is wider
and more wooded, but its sides are
broken by laige masses of rock, and
o 2
196
Boute 14. — Orosmont Stat.—Sleights.
on the stream which runs down it
are many waterfalls. The most im-
portant m the glen are NeUy Ayre
Fow (about ^ m. from the opening),
where the beck falls over an edge
of sandstone about 36 ft. ; and (1 m.
farther) MdHyan'% Spout, formed by
the descent of a tributary stream into
the Wheeldale beck, and about 76 ft.
high.]
Grossing and recrossing the stream
formed by the junction of the two
becks, the rly. passes through some
very pretty scenery to Grosmont.
About 1 m. from Beck Hole it is
carried through the basaltic dyke
which (see ante) ranges from Dark-
field Fell in Durham to Whitby. At
54} m. CrToamont Junct. Stat, the
valley of the Esk is entered. Here is
the junction (1.^ with the N. Yorkshire
and Cleveland Bly., running from
Whitby through Castleton to Stock-
ton-upon-Tees (Rte. 15).
The Ch. at Grosmont was rebuilt
in 1875. (For the beautiful scenery
at £gton Bridge, U m. 1. of Grosmont
Station, see post. The visitor to
Whitby should not miss it.) Here
are iron-blast furnaces (belonging to
Messra. BagnaU of Whitby), the
smoke from which is vLsible from all
Ihe heights round about, and is a good
landmark. Each furnace is capable
of producing 250 tons of pig-iron a
week. The sandstone and ironstone
in the neighbourhood are largely
quarried ; and are carried to Whitby
for esLportation. At a stone-quairy,
about ^ m. down the line, a section
of the great basaltic dyke is exposed.
*^Here it has the form of a great
wedge, the apex uppermost; and
the sandstone, which it so rudely
shouldered aside, is scorched and
partially vitrified along the line of
contact. The labourers, who break
up the hard black basalt for macada-
mising purposes, call it *chaney
metal? "—FAite. Where the iron-
stone beds are fully developed, their
produce is estimated at the rate of
22,000 tons to the acre.
From Leaeeriggy the wood-crowned
hill 1. of the station (on the rt. bank
of the Esk), there is a good i-iew up
and down the valley, toward Eg^ton
and Whitby, and back over the vale
of Goathland, through which the rly.
has passed. The roughness of the
ground marks the site of an ancient
alum-work, which, as Young (* Hist
of Whitby ') contends, was the earliest
in the Itingdom. (For the alum-
works of this district see Chiuborough,
Rte. 15a.) About 1 m. up the hill, on
the ridge, are the remains of a Roman
camp through which the road from
Malton to Dunum- Sinus
There is a wide view from it.
There was a small Priory at Gros-
mont, founded about 1200 by Johanna
de Tumham, and further endowed by
the FossardB and Maulevs. It wais
attached to the Abbey of Grosmont,
or Grandimont, in Nonuandy. Hence
the name. The order of Grandimont
was a branch of the Benedictine, bnt
far more austere. It had only 3
houses in England — Adderbury in
Shropshire, Cresswell in Hereford-
shire, and this. The site is marked
by a farmhouse 1. after leaving the
station ; but there are no remains of
importance.
The Tunnd Inn at Grosmont is
convenient for visitors from Whitby ;
but no conveyance is to be hind
at it.
About 1} m. before reaching
Sleights Stat, is Sleights Chapel,
built on the foundations of an an-
cient chapel in which tradition placed
the scene of the story referred to by
Sir W. Scott in * Mannion : '—
•• Then Whltbye irnns exulting toM
How to their house three barons bold
Must menial service do ;
Boute IL— Sleights— Whitby.
197
ITIiile boms b!ow ont a note of shame,
And monks cry, ' Fye upon yonr name ! '
In wrath, for loss of sylvan game,
Saint Hilda's piicst ye slew.' "
Ralph de Percy, and two other
barons, are said to hare killed the
hermit who lived here, and who had
giren refuge in his chapel to a wild
boar, followed bj their hoands. As
a penance, they were enjoined to
repair to the Elskda^ woods on the
morning of the Vigil of the Ascen-
sion, to collect certain stakes there,
and to cany them on their backs to
Whitby harboor, where they were
to fix them in the sea, whUe an
officer blew " Out on you," for their
crime. The story seems to have ari-
sen from some kind of harbour service
due from the Percy and others at
Whitby.
The main valley of the Esk, through
which the rly. runs, is pretty, and
wooded. Sleights Moor is seen rt.
From
57i m. Sleights Stat, the pedestrian
may make his way to Falting Force
(between 3 and 4 m. S.E.), a water-
fall in one of the wooded glens that
descend from the moor. It is in
grcmnds attached to Newton House,
and the gate which leads to the valley
is only open for visitors on certain
davs, which should be ascertained at
Whitby. There are pleasant walks
cut through the woods. The water-
falls throughout this district, it must
be remembered, depend for much of
their beauty on the season. In very
dry weather they are mere threads.
[The moors W. of the dales through
wmeh the rly. passes are somewhat
dreary, although they are interesting
to the antiquary from the number of
howes and tumuli with which they
are dotted. Urns and flint imple-
ments have been found in numbers.
The highest point (on the main axis)
is LiOa Gross (978 ft.), one of the
boandary-marks of the Whitby monks.
There are fine sea-views from all this
high ground.]
Through scenery of the same cha-
racter we reach
59 m. Ruswa/rp Stat. (\. is Bivet
HaU, a Charles 11. mansion, now a
farmhouse), whence the line proceeds
by the side of the river, which
broadens as we advance to
60 J m. Whitby.
IToUHb: Royal, on the W. Cliff (board and
lodging in public rooms 10«. 6d. a day),
In the best situation; Crown, also on the
W. Cliff; the Angel, in Baxtergaie Boad ;
county, Fisbburne Park (commercial). Lodg-
ings are plentiful and tolerably good. The
best are on the W. Cliff. The best jet shopt
are— at the end of John Street; St. Hilda's
Hall in Buxtergate ; and a very good one at
the end of Bridge Street.
The rly. trom Whitby by Kgton and Castle-
ton to Stokesley and Gulsborough reoderB
the country in that direction easily accessible
(see the next route). Frequent communica-
tion between Whitby and Saltbum by Sea
during season. Omnibus at times, but not
reliable. (See pott, fixcmvions from Whitby.)
Excursions by Reamer to Scarborough um
Hartlepool.
Bail. Whitbyto Scarborough, by
Seamer Junct. The shortest route.
The old town of Whitby lies on
either side of the river Esk (one of
the many forms — Exe, Devonshire ;
Axe, Somersetshire, &c. — of the Celtic
toysg, water), which here rushes to
the sea between tall cliffs. The name
is Danish or Anglian, the tohite
dwelling — an epithet frequently
given, as at Withem in Gbdloway, to
houses of **stane and lime** (or to
houses whitewashed on the exterior,
as York Minster was hj Wilfrid, see
Rte. 1) — ^thus distinguished from the
ordinary timber or wattle ; its older
name was Streoneshalch, see post)
On the 1. bank the town climbs up-
wards in a succession of steep and
narrow streets ; on the rt. it clusters
under the cliff crowned by the famous
Abbey of St. Hilda. The two parts
of the town are connected by abndge,
of which the central portion is lifted
for the passage of vessels. The mouth
198
BotUe IL—WhUby: Abbey Church.
of the harbour is protected by two
stone jetties; but in spite of these,
colliers and other yessels taking
refuge here in stormy weather are
obliged to moor above the bridge,
where the river widens out into a
basin large enough to contain a fleet,
though nearly dry at low water. All
the modem houses are on the W.
Cliff. The town is curious and old-
fashioned ; and its Ashing population
(Leland calls it "a great flschar
towne "}, with its many vessels and
foreign trade, give it distinctive
character. Whitby (Pop. 16,744)
has between 800 and 900 ships be-
longing to the port. These ships are
engag^ largely in the Baltic and
American trade, but are chiefly em-
ployed as home coasters. Goals are
shipped from here, and considerable
quantities of ironstone; and the jet-
workers of Whitby are famous.
Some vessels are still built here ;
but this part of the business of the
place has decreased largely since the
ships with which Capt. Cook made
his first voyage round the world were
built on the riverside, near the house
(in the first turning rt. from Church
St., with the date 1688 over the door)
in which he served as apprentice.
The whale-fishery has also deserted
Whitby. Dr. Wm. Seoretby (died at
Torquay 1857) was bom here in
1789; the son of a captain in the
Greenland service. He was his fa-
ther's apprentice, and as such made
many North Sea voyages. Chambere,
the marine artist, was also a native of
this place, and long an apprentice on
boara a Whitby trader.
Cobles, the fishing-boats used on all
this coast, are nearly flat-bottomed,
very sharp in the bows, and carry
three men. They are taken to the
water on wheels ; and do not go so
far to sea as the " Five-men boats,''
which generally take two cobles on
board, and use them on arriving at
the fishing-ground.
As a watering-place Whi^ is one
of the pleasantest on the YorkBhire
coast. It is much quieter than Scar>
borough, — a great recommendation to
many. The sea-views are superb.
Many places of interest are within
easy access ; and the inland country
is varied and very picturesque — espe-
cially that over tne moors to^wd
Cleveland. The chief promenades are
on the West Cliff, and on the W.
Eier, nearly ^ m. long, with a light-
ouse at its farther end, which the
visitor should ascend for the sea-view,
and for that of the town below him,
with its background of steep, wild
hills. (It should here be noticed
that Whitby is the "Monkshaven"
of Mrs. Gaskell's powerful but pain-
ful story, * Sylvia's Lovers.' The
town and its immediate neighbour-
hood are well and most faithfully
described.)
In Whitby itself the great point of
interest is the mined * Abbey, on the
hill opposite the W. Cliff. A flight
of 189 steps leads up from Church St,
which rans parallel with the river, to
the Abbey ruins and Parish Church.
The site consecrated for so many
ages cannot be visited without ex-
treme interest, although no fragment
remains earlier than the 12th cent
A small charee of dd. is made for ad-
mission to the ruins, which are en-
closed by a fence. They are those of
the Abbey Church, of which the choir,
N. transept, and part of the nave
alone remain. The W. side of the
nave fell during a great stonn of
wind in 1763 ; and the central tower
in 1830. The choir (E. Eng., but
retaining a Trans, character) is the
earliest portion. The N. transept is
also £. Eng., but of later date, and
the nave is rich Dec. All is much
weatherworn ; but well deserves at-
tention. The triforium of the choir
(a circ. arch, enclosing 2 pointed, each
of which is again subdivided) ^onld
be compared with those of £. Eng.
date at York and in the choir of
Stmie 1^—Wkiibjf : St. JKory't Church, MuteuwL 199
BievBnbc It extended over the aisles.
The £. end, sqntfe, with 3 tiers of
3 laaoets, the uppermost rising into
the gable, is fine; and the foiled
opeaings (not quite piercing the wall)
between the lancets of the West tier
are worth notice. All the choir-work
is much enriched with dogtooth.
There is some trace of a screen be-
tween the 2 first piers from the E. ;
and perhaps the shrine of St. Hilda
stood here, if her relics were ever
brought back from Qlastonbnrr. In
the N. transept the window-mooldings
^ow large open fiowers (lilies) differ-
ing E. and W. One pier alone of
the S. transept is standing. In the
nave, tiie 3 easternmost windows are
E. Eng., the others Dec., of a some-
what peculiar design. In the W.
gable of the N. aisle is a small and
curioos lozenge-shaped window, of
the same date. Ofdiide the ruins,
remark, in the choir, the clerestory
windows, with heads at their corbel
stones ; the pinnacle-capped buttresses
of the K. transept, much enriched
with canopied nicW ; and the wb(de
N. front. It is from this side that
the sketcher wiU get his best points.
On the S. side of the ruins are the
foundations of cloisters and domestic
buildings, and of the Chapter-hoiise
next the S. transept. The ground
slopes inland from this side, and
afforded some shelter. After the Dis-
solution the Abbey became the pro-
perty of the C^olmley family, who
still retain it, and who built, about
1580, the House caDed WhUby Eall,
on the site of the Abbot's dwelling.
This house has been restored since
1867. In it is some tapestry which
is said (no doubt since ^Marmion'
appeared) to have been " worked by
the nuns,*' a good old Venetian chest,
aski some antiquities of little interest.
FrGon the garden there is a fine view
over Whitby, up the Esk.
The parish Church of 8t Mary, on
the elin a little below the Abbey, con-
tains some Nonn. portions ; but has
bc«n so changed and filled with pews
and galleries, that its interior is
strongly suggestive of a ship's cabin.
In it is a monument for Gen. Ijascelles,
of Whitby, who served in Spain
during the reign of Queen Anne, and
in Scotland in both the 15 and the
*45. The view from the ch.-yd.,
commanding the port of Whitby and
the W. CliC is very striking, tn un-
usually clear weather the coast oC
Durhian is visible from this point.
In Dec. 1870, a very considerable
landslip occurred here, and great part
of the £. C!liff slipped into the har-
bour. St. JohfC% Church (completed
1850) is an indifferent building of £.
Eng. character. St. Ninian$ (also
modem) is on the site of an ancient
chapel attached to the abbey.
The *Mu$ewny above the Public
Baths, on the W. pier (established
1823), contains a very interesting
series of fossils from the lias of the
neighbourhood — ichthyosauri, plesio-
sauri, and a very fine crocodile. The
ammonites are well represented ; and
there is a complete series of bones
from the Kirkdale Cavern. Some
antiquities from the howcs and tumuli
of the moors should also be noticed.
There is a tolerable Library^ under
the same roof as the Museum, to
which strangers may subscribe by the
week or month.
The Clfffs between Whitby and the
Peak (the S. end of Robin Hood*s
Bay) " exhibit almost universally, in
their lower part, a moss of laminated
lias shale, and, very genendlv on the
top, a crown of gritstone. The shale
wasted by the rough sea perishes,
though not very rapidly, and the
crown of sandstone falls, though not
often. The permanent effect of these
circumstances is a formidable steep-
ness in the whole range of these dark
cliffs, which even at low water are
margined by only a narrow belt of
sands, or a scar of rugged rock, safe
200
BoiUe IL— Whitby : Jet ; History of Ahbey.
only to those who take heedful note
of the tide."— Pfcttttp«. It is from
this lias shale that alum is made, and
bands containing jet run through it.
N. of Whitby, tiie low cliffs as far as
Sandsend, are of sandstone, covered
by glacial drift. At Sandsend the
oolitic clifis rise again.
Jet (the word is from the Qreek
OaacUes, named from the river Qages
in Lycia, where jet was first dis-
covered) is a kind of cannel coal,
sometimes found with fossils imbedded
in it, and is dug not only in the diJSs,
but in some places inland. "Its
electricity procured for it in the
middle ages the title of * black am-
ber; * in fact, it often occurs in the
same beds of lignite as the real
amber, and is probably the fossilized
branches of the same tree that pro-
duced the resin, the orunn of the
ktter.*'— C. W. King. The best is
found, as in Drayton's days, on the
Mulgrave estate
** The rocks by Moulgrave too, my glorie
forth to set,
Oat of their crannied deves can give you
perfect jet."
Workers take a right of the bands
of jet for a certain term. The value
vanes from 10 to 18 shillings a pound.
It is worked into the desir^ patterns,
at first with knives, then wim grind-
stones, and last by wheels covered
with list, to give a high polish. Orna-
ments of verygood design will be
found in the Wliitby shops, and the
process of working may oe seen on
proper application. How ancient was
the worung of jet in this neighbour-
hood is shown by the necklaces of jet
beads found in British tumuli on tiie
moors— examples of which may be
seen in the museums at Scarborough
and Whitby.
Hittory of Whifby Abbey,
It was about the abbey that the
town itself arose. Oswi, King of
Northumbria, before his batUe near
Leeds, in November 655, with tiic
fierce heathen Penda of Mercia, vowed
that if he were victorious he would
dedicate his infant daughter, Elfieda,
to a conventual life. Penda was
killed in the battle ; and Oswi placed
his daughter with large gifts of land at
" Heruteu " (Hartlepool in Durham),
where Hilda, the daughter of Hereric,
nephew of King Edwin, was then
abbess. Two years afterwards, Hilda,
having acquired certain land at
" Streoneshalch " (now Whitby), esta-
blished a monasteiy there, over which
she presided until her death in 680.
"High Whitby's cloistered pile"
thus stood out as the first point seen by
the seaman in returning to his native
shores, and the last he would miss in
leaving them ; and the lights stream-
ing from its ch. windows must often
have served him as a " pharos.** In
accordance with the usage of that
age, Hilda's foundation was for both
monks and nuns ; but the '* Domina
Hilda "-^the " Lady HUda," as she is
still called at Whitby — ^remained the
Superior. Whitby became at once the
most important school of learning in
the North ; and five inmates, who uter-
wards became bishops, Bosa (York),
MttBi rDorchester), Oftfor (Mercia),
John (York — ^tiiis is St. John of
Beverley— *ee Rte. 8), and Wilfrid
(York — ^not the famous Wilfrid, but
a successor of the same name), were
brethren of the house under Hilda.
In the year 664 Whitby f perhaps on
account of its easy access by sea) was
chosen as the place of the synod
which was to determine the well-
known Easter controversy. KingOs^i
and his son Alfred were present at it.
Wilfrid, then Abbot of Ripon, was
the greatest supporter of the Roman
party; and CkJman, Bp. of Lindis-
fame, on whose side were Hilda and
Bp. Chad, represented the Scots.
After a long aiscussion the contro-
versy was summed up by Wilfrid,
who asserted that St Golumba could
Bomie 14t.—EiHory of Wkiiby Abbey.
201
on no afoooont be nefeired to St.
Petar, to wham tlie Laid had giTen
the keys of heaTen ; and King Oswi
declared that he would not ventnie to
i soch an ** ostiarins,*^ ** lest per-
he should torn from me when
I reach the doon of the heavenly
kingdom-" Colman retired from hs
see; and both Hilda and St Chad
adopted the Boman oompntation. It
was whilst Hilda was abbess here that
Ccdmon compased his remarkable
parepfanse of uie Scriphnes in Saxon
verse. He had been a Ceorl (?) on or
near the lands of the monastery ; and
was nnable to sing or to ctmipose
until, as he once lay asleep in a cattle-
stall, a certain personage seemed to
stand by him, and order him to sing.
At his request Caedmon, then no
longer a young man, composed in his
sleep some verses on the creation ;
remembered them when awake ; and
after telling his story to St Hilda,
was, on due probation, received as
a brother of the monastery, where he
composed his long poem; which
Mihon may perhaps have seen, since
some curious points of resemblance
have been traced between it and the
'Paradise Lost.' Hilda herself died
here in 680. Her successor was the
Princess Elfleda (see ante), who had
been brought up under her ; and who,
as abbess, used to sail from Whitby
for interviews with St Cuthbert on
Coquet Island off the Northumbrian
coast Elfleda, her father King Oswi,
her mother, and manv noble North-
umbrians, were buried in the monas-
teiy here. The house continued to
flourish until about 867, when it was
des^oyed by the Northmen under
Inguar and Unbba, Titus, the abbot
of the monks, taking flight to Glas-
tonbury with the rehcs of St. Hilda.
After the Conquest a new foundation
(Benedictine, entirely for monks) was
established here by Wm. de f ercy
(with the moustache — ^the founder of
his family in Elngland), to whom
Whitby had been eranted by Hugh
Lupw, Earl of Chester, who first
received it from the Conqueror. The
actual restorer, however, was Regen>
frith, one of ihe comMny of nKuks
who set out frxmi Evesnain to *** visit
the holy places" in the North. The
town of Whitbv, its harbour, and a
large tract of Wd along the coast
(henceforth known as Whitby Strand),
were included in the Percys' grant.
It was at first a Priory, but was raised
to the dimity of Abbey temp. Hen. I.
Toward Sie middle of the 12th cent
(the year is imcertain) the abbey,
** intus et foris," was plundered by the
"King of Norse,'' who landed here
with many ships. But the Percys
remained its patrons till the Dissolu-
tion, when its gross annual rental was
5057.
Whitby Abbey contained no nuns
after the Conquest ; and the *' Abbess
of St. Hilda's,** with her nuns, who
graced the eallev of the famous
voyage from WhitW to Landisfame,
in * Marmion,' is entirely a lady of the
imagination. The evening talk of
the nuns, however, commemorates the
true legends of the place —
•' — bow of thoiisand snokM each one
Was changed into a coil of stone
When holy Hilda praj-ed;
Themselves within their holy bound
Tlieir stony folds bad often found.
Tbey told how seafowls' pinions fail
Ab over Whitby's towers they sail.
And sinking down with flulterings &int.
They do their homage to the saint.'*
(The ammonites of the lias arc the
snakes which St. Hilda petrified and
beheaded ; although the shield of the
abbey — 3 ammonites — retains the
heads. So St. Keyne, in Somerset-
shire, is said to have petrified the
snakes which infested her district —
also ammonites.) At one of the
windows of the Abbey Ch. was seen,
on certain occasions,
«• The very form of Hilda fair
Hovering upon the sunny air."
— an effect of light and mist which is
still sometimes visible.
%i
j^aute 14. — Whi^ : WaOcs and Hxcwaions.
Walks and Excurnons.
On the S., passing through St.
Mary's chnrchjard, you can walk
along the cliffs, here grand and lofty,
in the direction of Robin Hood's Bay.
At High Whitby, marked by a coast
station and lighthouses, the cliff id
285 ft. high ; and here fossil Equiseta
may be seen erect in the gritstone
rocks. (The double lighthouses dis-
tinguish them from others along the
coast. The lights are " dioptric/' the
lens being a dome built up in hori-
zontal rings or layers of thick fflass).
Nearer "Wnitby a promontory of bro-
ken rock stretohes into the sea ; and
in the " wyke " or little bay N. of it
the best specimens of saurians have
been found. There was a complete
nest of them imbedded here. The
sea-views from these cliffs are fine;
and inland, the ruins of the Abbey
Ch. rise strikingly, suggesting what
an excellent guide the buildings must
have been to the Northmen who so
often devastated them.
On the N. there is a walk along the
low cliffisi nearly as far as Sandsend
(3 m.) ; and the sands below are firm
and pleasant. Lvthe Ch. is con-
spicuous on the hill, W. The bay
here is nrobablv the Boman " Jhrnum-
Sinus ;^ but the name can hardly, as
has been suggested, be retained in
that of Dunsley, a small neighbouring
village, towanls which tiie Boman
road, from near Malton, points. At
Sandsend (in Cleveland — ^the " beck "
marks the division) were some exten-
sive alum-worksy abandoned since
1867. They were established here
about 1620, when the old name of
the village — "Thordisa" — ^no doubt
" Thordis i, "—the " beck " or stream
of Thordis, a Scandinavian woman's
name — ^was changed for the present
East Bow. (For the history of alum
in Yorkshire see Guisborough, Bte.
15.) The quarry from which the
alum shale was dug is about } m. W.
of the works, and is a vast semicir-
cular hollow, not unlike the crater of
a volcano, a resemblance which, wh^i
the works were active, was increased
by the slowly smouldering heaps of
shale crackling and smokmg within
it. Where freshly exposed, " the shale
may be likened to slate soaked in
grease : it has a greasy or soapy feel
between the fingers. . . . Embedded
in it, most abundant in the mpper 25
ft, tJie workmen find nodules of lime-
stone about the size of a cricket-baU ;
and of these the well-known Mul-
grave cement is made." — White
Fossils — saurians, ammonites (150
distinct species are found on the
Yorkshire coast), fish, and plants,
occur also abundantly in this lias
shale. A small modem ch. (St.
Mary's) has been built at the upper
end of the village of Sandsend.
Inland from Whitby there is a
pleasant walk from the rly. stat,
along the 1. side of the Esk across
the meadows to Buswarp ; and at
Oockshot MUl (2 m.), on the opposite
side, there is a small waterfall in a
picturesque wooded glen. You should
walk to it through Church-street, to
the cemetery (whence a fine view is
commanded), and f m. beyond it a
white gate 1. leads into the mill
valley. You may cross the rly.
bridge (over the Esk) to Buswarp,
and return to Whitby on that side of
the river.
Longer Excursions may be made
from any of the stations between
Whitby and Pickering (see ante);
and by rail from Pickering. Last-
ingham is also within a day's work
from Whitby. Very picturesque
country lies also within reach of the
stations on the Egton and Castleton
Bly. (Bte. 16.).
Excursions hy Steamer to Scar-
borough and Hartlepool are pleasant
in fine weather ; and the coast is well
seen. Other expeditions are— to Bo-
bin Hood's Bay; to Egton Bridge,
and thence through tne Amcline
woods, or (a much longer, but most
Souie 14. — Sobtn MooHs Bay ; Hgion Bridge,
203
beautiful walk) alonr Glaisdale Ridge
to Whitecroes, and uience to Castle-
ton: across IJie moors to Bosedale;
to Molgrave Castle ; and hy the coast
to Saltbum. Falling Force, above
Newton House (see ante, Sleights),
is also a pleasant excursion from
Whitby.
(a) Bobin HootPe Bay (6 m.) may
be reached by a waJk along the clilb,
or (there is no public conyeyance) by
a caniage road that is marked by
flagstone footpath all the way.
Aboot 1 m. from Whitby, on rt., in
a field, is an arch formed by a whale-
jaw, and others in the fields beyond.
Up the lane nearly opposite are some
gates made of whale-ribs, and in some
of the fields such ribs are used as
rubbing-posts for cattle. These are
relics of the old and departed trade
of Whitby. At the village of Eaw-
fker were two upright stones [not
Qow to be discovert], which, says
tradition, marked the spots reached
br the arrows of Robin Hood and
llittle John, when, to please the
monks of Whitby, they shot from
their church tower. The pedestrian
win find fingerposts with kH.B. to
guide him. He should take the 1.
road thus indicated where these roads
I meet after leaving Hawsker. Steep
descent to the bay through the curious
old qnaint viUage of Thorpe, perched
on lull above a rivulet, some of the
houses walled up perpendicularly
over the stream. Note tiie Chrades
of the fishermen here. There is no
' part of the Yorkshire coast more
attractive to the naturalist or the
artist than Robin Hood's Bay. At
^e Peak, its southern termination, a
fault throws up the strata to the N. ;
aod nearly the whole series of lias is
here visible, under its usual capping
of gritstone. The wder is — upper
lias (alum) shale; ironstone, and
marlstone (laminated sandstone) se-
ries : and lower lias series (shale with
nodules of ironstone). The lowcliffe
and scars of the bay are of this lowest
shale, covered with glacial drift. The
form of the bay is striking ; and the
ravine, with a beck running through
it, passes up into Fvlingdales Moor.
At the N. end of the bay is Bay Town
(at the New Inn a stranger may find
rough but clean accommodation),
picturesquely placed; and owning a
small fleet of coal brigs and schooners.
The beautiful Church was built through
present vicar by Street. From SUmpe
Brow (800 ft.), towards the S. end of
the bay, is a far more extensive view
over land and sea. On the moors
beyond are Robin Hood's Butte, tu-
muli, which are said to have served as
marks for the outlaw and his men.
Robin, says local tradition (no ballad
records it), fled to this remote coast on
occasions of special danger, and had
his boats ready to put to sea if neces-
sary. The name occurs in other
Cof the district, as on Danby N.
•s, where 3 houses are also called
Robin Hood's Butts. (For the PeaJc,
see Rte. 12, Excursion from Scar-
borough.)
(6) JEgtm Bridge. The very plea-
sant scenery here is reached either by
a walk of IJ m. from the Grosmont
stat., along the 1. bank of the £sk ;
or you may proceed at once to the
Egton Bridge stat. of the Castleton
rly. Not far from the bridge is an
old-fashioned coimtry Inn, the Horse-
shoe, convenient as head-quarters for
the day. The most picturesque scenes
are in Amcliffe (Erne — eagle cliffe)
wood, beyond the inn ; but the seclu-
sion has been destroyed by the passage
of the rly. through the Esk vallev,
here lined with lofty scars of rock.
You should walk through the wood
to Beggar's Bridge, said to have been
built by a lover who had found it
difficult to get to his mistress across
the swollen river (it is called Firris
Bridge in a document 2 centuries old ;
its age is uncertain) ; and (1), passing
under the rly. bridge, climb the hill
beyond, up which a steep road winds.
204
Route 14. — Egton Bridge.
A very beautiful view opens from the
top of the hill over West Arncliffe
wood, lying in the hollow of Olai$-
dale (possibly "Olai" is a personal
name), the steep sides of which rise
above it Pass through this wood,
which is unrailroaded and lovely, and
beyond it turn 1. over the moor into
the Rosedale road, which will bring
vou back to Egton Bridge. On the
highest part of the moor a superb
view opens towards Whitby, with a
long breadth of sea beyond it. This
scene, over Goathland' Dale on one
side, and into the moors on the other,
is alone worth the climb. Glaisdale
(through which a stream descends to
join the Esk) is a wide valley dotted
with farms ; the divisions of the crofts
marked by fine trees, which cluster
more thi(^y about the homestead.
Here, and in all the Yorkshire dales,
these farms are singularly suggestive
of that old home life which has been
so beautifully painted by Southey in
* The Doctor.' The rich, quiet vadley
opens very pleasantly as you descend
toward Egton. On the moor, be-
tween the woods of E. and W. Arn-
cliffe, a little N. of the Bosedalc road
(and fenced off from the surrounding
land), is a collection of hut founda-
tions, indicating the site of a primitive
village. They are hollows, disposed
quite irregularly round the sides of a
piece of ground about 4} acres in
extent, which is surrounded by a
sort of fosse and a bank of earth and
stones, having an opening on one
side. They vary in diameter from 8
to 20 ft., and in depth from 3 to 6 ft.
Traces of fire have been found in the
centre, and in some are indications
of rough walling. Similar founda-
tions exist in many parts of the
moors, the most iinportant being at
Killing Pits, near Goathland cl^pel
(see ante), in Westerdale (Rte. 15), and
near Danby Beacon TBte. 15). They
resemble in general character the
British villages on the Cheviots and
on Daxtmoor. (These last, however,
are more distinctly marked, owing to
the granite blocks used in them.)
(You may drive from Whitbv to
Egton Bridge, or a good pedestrian
may return across E^n Low Moor,
and through the village of Bgton.
From Swarthoue CroM, on Egton
Moor, the view is magnificent, with
a vast extent of sea, and Whitby
Abbey, on its cliff, far below the
spectator; S. the Grosmont valley
is well seen. The foreground of
purplo heather is here finely con-
trasted with the grey of the sea,
and the rich verdure of the valleys.
Egton (Oak-town) church contains
Norm, and E. E. portions, bat is of
little interest (2) For the longer
walk, proceed from Egton Bridge to
the Beggar's Bridge, and thence
(instead of taking the road over the
hill followed in the former walk)
continue about ^ m. to the little ch.
at Glaisdale End. From this ch.
the road is plain S.W. for about 1|
m. Just before a Wesleyan chapel
is reached, a branch road turns up
the hill rt. to the high ground of
Glaisdale Ridge, from which very
picturesque views (among the finest
on these moors) are obtained into
Fryup Dale, which here sends its
"beck" towards the Esk. (A long
isolated ridge divides Great from
Little Frynp.) Pass round the head
of Fryup Dale — there is a well-
marked track all the way — and then
make due W. for Whiteero»s — a
mark easily seen from a distance,
and well known to the natives, so
that it will be easy to get directed
to it. From Whitecross turn due N.
down Gastleton Ridge to the rly.
Stat, at Gastleton. (See Rte. 15.)
The whole distance, xrom Glaisdale
End to Gastleton, is about 16 m.
The ground is elevated moorland
throughout, and the views magni-
ficent.
At Glaisdale End, where is a
dation, 3 large ironstone furnaces
mark the works of Messn. Wilson.
They are very far from conferring an
Bouts 14, — Basedale.
205
additional gimce on the neighbour-
hood.
(c) BoteddU (the etymology is un-
certain, but see Boseberry Topping,
Bte. 15), 12 m. from Egton Bridge, is
reached bj a wild and lonely heath
road, passing ov^ Egton High Moor.
(Driying to Bosedale, you must hire
TOUT vehicle at Whitby.) About 4 m.
rt a picturcsone broken " gill "
descends into (ilaisdale. There is
no goree on these moors. The effects
of colour are produced by heather
(ranging from deep purple to white),
fern, and much whortleberry. The
short thick heather makes the ground
difficult for walking. After passing
SkwmoT Howe (1085 ft.\ we descend
towaitls Bosedfiie, which soon opens
below us, green with trees and fields.
The diann of these dales is only
half discovered by those who pass
merely up or down them. They
should be come upon suddenly, from
the dreary heathland that protects
and isolates them, with which they
are in admirable contrast. Two
smaller dales, Northdale and Thor-
jdll, open, above the village, into
Rosedale, the heed of which, under
Glaisdale Moor, is not far to the N.
TtiB Crown, the village Inn, will
probably be found full during the
early shooting season, but it is a
good centre nam which to explore
the adjoining moors and dales ; and
the accommodation is tolerable. The
village has been filled with life since
the iron-works were opened on the
hill above; but the site must have
leen intensely solitary when Bobert
de Stuteville founded here a Priory
for Cistercian nuns, temp. Bich. I.,
aiid attached the whole of the dale
to the Priory, worth (gross) aimually,
at the Dissolution, 412. 13s. A door-
way (arch into cloister) and part of a
tmret staircase are the only remains,
andareof the 13th cent. The modem
ch., small and ugly (rebuilt in 1839),
occupies one side of the cloister ; the
ifiscnption, «« Omnia vanitas," on a
stone inserted over the door, preach-
ing such a lesson as the good Cister-
cians hardly contemplated when they
carved the letters. In the ch.-yd.
is a large and beautiful sycamore.
Iron- works existed in* this part of
Bosedale at an early period. Eustace
de Stuteville, before 1209, gave to
the Priory his lands called Bagg-
thwaite, with the exception of his
forges, which no doubt proved a great
source of annoyance to the nuns, for
he subsequently conceded his interest
in them, adding in his charter, " Ita
quod eadem forgia penitus ainoveatur,
et a nullo hominum unquam reeedi-
ficetur."
Ironstone is now raised here largely,
and is of unusual richness; and ex-
tensive works have been constructed
on the hill by the "Bosedale and
Ferryhill Iron Company." More than
600 men are employed, for whose
use sundry Dissenting chapels have
risen in the village, and a hospital
has been founded by the Company.
The works are readily shown. (See
Middlesbrough, Bte. 17, for a notice
of the Cleveland ironstone and its
working.) The ore is conveyed by a
rly., along the ridge of the moors, to
Ingleby Greenhow (above which is a
steep and dangerous incline), where
it joins the N. Yorkshire and Cleve-
land line (see Bte. 17\ By per-
mission, which must be obtained from
the proprietors, at the Bosedale mine,
or at Ingleby, passengers are occa-
sionally conveyed on this private line,
the views from which, especially at
the head of Famdale, are magnificent.
You may descend Bosedale to Last-
ingham (see Bte. 18a.). For the dales
and moors accessible from Bosedale,
see ante and Bte. 15, CatUeion.
Bievaulx Abbey may be reached
by rail from Pickering to Helmsley,
Bte. 18a.
(d) Mulgrave CagUe (Marquis of
Normanby), 4 m. W. of Whitbv, is a
luuidsome modem edifice, built by
the Duchess of Buckingham, natural
206
Boute 14. — Mulgraoe Castle.
daughter of James II., wife of John
Earl of Molgrave, Marquis of Nor-
manbj and Duke of Buckingham.
The property came to the Phippses
bj tne marriage of the duchess's
daughter in 1718 to the father of the
first Lord Mulgrave of the Phipps
family. The Castle is not shown.
It contains some interesting Pictures^
among them the Buspigliosi Claude,
a landscape with banditti; P. Vero-
nese, the Family of Darius ; Cuvp, a
landscape; Vandyckf Queen Hen-
rietta Maria ; Kndler, James II. and
the Duchess of Buckingham ; Jervau,
Lord Henrtey, and Molly Lepel ; Gaim-
borough, Constantine Phipps, the
Arctic explorer; Betftwlis, Lord
Mulgrave and boy (a Phipps) with
a dog; H(^opner,Wm. Pitt; WHkie,
the Blind Fiddler and Queen Victoria
in her youth. The woods and drives,
however (a great attraction at Mul-
grave), are open on certain days
with an order, obtainable at Whitby.
They cover the sides of 2 deep
ravines, such as frequently open to
the sea on this part of the coast, and
extensive walks and drives have been
cut through them.
On a high ridge between the
ravines are the ruins of the Old
CcuUe, traditionally said to have been
founded by a certain Wade (no doubt
the Wada or Vada famous in both
Scandinavian and Teutonic folklore),
a giant, who had a cow, which his
wife was compelled to go to milk on
the moors a long way off. For her
convenience Wade constructed the
road called " Wade's Causeway " (part
of the Roman road between Maiton
and Dunsley). While she was assist-
^^j ^7 conveying stones in her apron,
the string broke with the weight,
and the burden still remains on the
moor in a heap of not less than 20
cartloads. The cow's rib (a whale-
bone) was formerly shown at Mul-
grave Castle. Wade s grave is pointed
out at Goldsborough, and elsewhere.
The castle was long the stronghold
of the Mauleys (de lualo lacn). The
situation must have been one of ^jeat
strength, and the remains are mte-
resting to the student of militair
antiquities. The Castle occupied the
entire width of the ridge. On the E.,
approach to the wails was cut oft by
a moat, from the brink of which still
rise walls and towers of much strength.
The main approach was on the W..
where the entrance was between 2
massive circular towers. The ground
lines within and without the con-
taining walls are at very different
levels, the inner being much the
higher. The wall has conseqnentlv
bmged outward, and has been
strengthened by massive buttresses.
The oldest part of this enclonng
wall is on the S. side of the S. en-
trance tower, and is marked by 5
shallow buttresses, which are dearly
Norm. In a tower at the N.E. angle
of the castle is a circular-headed
doorway, built up with herringbone
masonry, for which bricks are used
which may be Homan. It would
seem that a Norm, structure occu-
pied the site of the present remains,
and must have been the work of the
Fossards, to whom the manor passed
after the Conquest. A large window
on the £. may have lighted the Great
Hall of the castle in its later con-
dition. This room was 25 ft. wide
by 36 long. The ruins are picturesque,
and worth a visit. Mul^ve Castle
was « dismantled " by order of Par-
liament in 1647, and the blocks of
masonry Iving at some distance from
the foot of the waUs perhaps indicate
the use of gunpowder for the ** dis-
mantling." It |MS8ed from the
Mauleys, temp. Hen. V., to the
Bigods; then by marriage, temp.
Ed. VI., to the Badcliffes ; and about
1625 it came into the hands of Lord
Sheffield of Butterwick, Lord Presi-
dent of the North, created Earl of
Mulgrave by Charles L Queen Anne
created his descendant Duke of Buck-
ingham and Normanby in 170;^.
The title became extinct in 1733,
Bmiie U.—Ketae»e89—8taUke8.
207
and in 1767 Constantane Phipps, a
descendant of the Anglesey family,
was made Jjoid Mugrave. His
descendant is the present Marquis of
Nonnanby.
The view of Whitby, with the
Abbey rains, from the open park
near the lodge, and from the ch.-yd.
of Lffihe aboTe, is very striking.
Iijrthe Chorch contains some £. £.
portions, but is uninteresting. On
the shore below are Roman cement
works, for which the limestone no-
dales, found in the lias shale, are
used.
(e) A eoaeh or omnibus runs in
sommer from WhUby to Saltbum in
5 hours, Also an occasional steamer
makes the trip. Passengers are
landed at Stanhes Bay in small
boats. As the boatmen are addicted
to extortion, arrangements for landing
charges should hd made with the
master of the steamer. The distance
is between 15 and 20 m. After
passing Lythe the places of interest
along the coast are — CMdtiboroughf
where the grave of eiant Wade is
pointed out (see ante, Mulgrave— the
stones, about 100 ft. asunder, are
5 ft and 4 ft li\sli)—KettUme9s, a
fine headland, 375 It. high, with iron-
stone bands at its base (the name
Kettle, famous in Iceland, is, per-
haps, due to one of the Northern
rovers, by whom this coast was
haonted and partly settled), where
are alum- works, rebuilt 1831. A
small ch. was consecrated here in
1871. On the night of December 17,
1829, a large mass of cliff, which had
been perforated by excavations, gave
way, and the hamlet glided down
tow-ards the sea. The inhabitants,
having good caose for alarm, which
was not a little increased by the
darkness, took refuge on board a
small sloop lying off for alum ; and
their houses and the works were
overwhelmed. The cliff called the
8ted once took fire, and burned for
2 years. Kettleness was a favourite
haunt of the Yorkshire bogles Tf airies),
"who used to wash their Imen in
Claymore Well — and the noise of
their ^bittle' was heard more than
2 m. off.** — Bufiswiek Bay^ very pic-
turesque, with jet-diggers busy in its
cMs, to the nearly complete destruc-
tion of Hdb Hotsj a cavern excavated
by the sea in the lias shale, once the
abode of Hob Thrush, a spirit, who
osed to be invoked for the cure of
the hooping-cough. Standing at the
entrance ot the cave, with the sick
child in her arms, the mother thus
addressed him : —
«*,Hol>-hoIeHobi
My baim*8 gotten t' kin oongh:
Tak'toff-taktoffl"
(Grimm suggests that " thrush " may
be cognate with the 0. N. ^yrs, a
giant. Hob seems to be alb = elf.
There are many Hobs in Cleveland,
and at Mulgrave is a " Hob*s Cave,**
see Atkinson's ^ Cleveland Glossary.')
The houses of Bunswick village, at
the W. end of the bay, **hang on
the abrupt hill-side as martens*
nests on a wall, among patches of
ragwort, brambles, gorse, elders, and
bits of brown rock, overtopped by
the smnmit of the cliff."— White.
The views from the cliffs here, witli
Kettleness rising E., are very fine.
SinderweU (inland) was anciently
"HUderwell," St Hilda's WeU, from
a spring in the ch.-yd. so named.
The cliffs between Bunswick and
Staithes are marked by tumuli.
Stailhes itself (Staith, A.-S., a land-
ing-placed shut in by high bluffs, be-
tween wnich a stream runs to the
sea. is highly picturesque and as
highly unsavoury. The houses de-
scend so close to the sea, that they
are liable to be swept away in a
storm, and 13 houses nave been de-
stroyed at once in this manner.
Staithes is a great fishing station ;
and in the herring season (smoke-
houses or drying uie fish are built
against the cliff) the inhabitants '* are
Bouie 16.—Whiiby to StociUm'^pan-Tees.
as busy as sand-martins." Here Cook
was apprenticed before he went to
Whitby ; and here, 6a3r8 tradition, he
stole a shilling from his master's till,
and ran off to sea, the real founda-
tion of his fortunes. "No better
station than this can be selected for
exploring the sections or gathering
the fossils of the lias. On &e £. the
upper lias and ironstone series ; on
the W. the upthrown marlstone and
lower lias are easily examined; and
by proceeding only a mile to the W.
the great cliff of Boulby is reached,
the loftiest of all the precipices which
guard the English coast (660 ft.);
and in this formidable cliff the whole
series of strata, from the sandstone
which caps the upper lias, to a
certain depth in the lower lias, may
be recognised. The alum-works, at
either end of the highest part of the
cliff, now abandoned for the most
part, once afforded great facilities for
this examination." — PhtUips.
The wooded glens, which descend
from the moors inland, are some-
times very picturesque. Near Loft-
house (ch. modem, 1811 ; on the
W. side of the village is an an-
cient circ. mound and intrench-
ment), which stands on the edge of
them, an upright stone is shown,
said to mark the haunt of the " grisly
worm," or dragon, killed, says tradi-
tion, by a certain " Scaw," whose story
resembles that of Sir John Conyers,
the slayer of the famous dragon of
Sockbume in Durham. (The stories
of the Lambton worm, and of "the
laidly worm of Spindleston heugh,"
are of the same character.) A comn-
lid, carved with a sword, dug up on
the site of Handale PriorWfor Benedic-
tine nuns, founded by Wm. de Perci
1133 — ^no relics remain), at the head
of the Lofthouse glen, was supposed to
have belonged to the " dragon-killer,"
but it really differed not at all from
hundred of similar coffin-lids found
in the N. of England.
From the cliffs at Boulbv tb#» Their
ham coast (Hartlepool, and farther
N.) is plainly visible. iS/rtnmngrooe, a
village at tiie mouth of a narrow
valley, into which, somewhat higher
up, many wooded glens open, is fa-
mous for the capture of a " sea-miin "*
about the year 1535, who was kept
many weelfs in an old house '^with
raw fish to eat, for all other fare he
refused." He escaped at last to the
sea, and returned no more. Much
ironstone is dug here. On the rade of
one of the upper glens, overhanging
the stream, are the scanty ruins of
KtUon Cadle, long a stronghold of the
Thwengs. Passing beyond Skinnin-
grove, the tumulus-like Freebrougk
HiU (see Rte. 15) is seen inland, and
Roseberry Topping (Rte. 15) beyond
it. Huntdijf Nab then rears its long
dark precipice, 360 ft. above the
sea ; and beyond it is SaHburn (Rte.
17), with its excellent hotels, the
Zetland and the Al^candra,
ROUTE 15.
WHITBY TO 8TOCKTONHJPON-TCE8.
BT STOKESLEY. (QUISBOROUGH,
ROSEBERRY TOPPING.)
(North Yorkshire and Cleveland
Branch of N,E, Bailv>ay.)
4 Trains daily, in 2 hours.
This line joins the rly. from Whitby
to Pickering at
Groemont Junct. Stat, see Rte. 14,
whence it runs through the upper
Bouie 16, — Whithtf to Stockton — Danhy Castle,
209
valley of the Esk to Castleton, and
then, skirting the Cleveland hiUs, to
Stokedey to the Picton Junction
stat., on the line between Northaller-
ton and Stockton. Its course, as far as
Stokesley, is through wild and very
picturesque scenery. From Grosmont
this line runs entirely through the
district of Cleveland (see Introd.),
which here justiiies its name (as on
the coast, Kliflond, O. Norse — the
CUf land). It is to the country
between the hills and the sea that
the old rhyme applies —
" dereUnd to the clay :
Bring in two soleii, cany one away.'*
For Bgton Bridtfe^ stat beyond
Grosmont, see Rte. 14 (Exc. &, from
Whitby). At
GUtisdalB Stat. (Rte. 14, id).
The next gtat. is LeaJhchn Bridge ;
above which the river makes its way
through Cnmkley Gill, a narrow pass
between precipitous scars of rock. The
rly. is carried by a deep cutting
through the hill to avoid this pass,
which remains solitary and very beau-
tiful Beyond it, Ureal Fryupdats
sends its beck to the Esk : a moorland
ridge, with Dauby Crag jutting from
its northern face, separates Great from
Little Fryun. Danby Beacon (988 ft.)
rises rt. of tne rly., and Davby Gaetle
islseen on the high ground, 1. Rt. is
Danhy Lodge, belonging to Lord
I)owne.
DavX,y Stat.
A good pedestrian may walk
from Lealholm Bridge, across Danby
Beacon, to the British settlement on
Danby Moor, and thence to the
Ktat at Davby. The entire distance
("over rough ground) mil be between
S and 10 m. Or he may proceed
along the S. bank of the river, passing
the "end" of the Fryup dales, to
Danby Castle — well worth the anti-
qnarv^s attention — and thence to
[Yorlahire.'i
Danby station, a walk of between
4 and' 5 m.
(a) From Danhy Beacon the view
is very extensive m the direction of
Whitby, and over the moors westward.
The hiU itself (like Roseberry Top-
pinfi[, and most of the Cleveland hills)
IS (H the lower sandstone, which be-
longs to the lower oolitic series.
About 1} m. due N. of it (between
the Beacon and Wapely New Inn)
is perhaps the most remarkable of
the many British "settlements" on the
Yorkshire moors. The pits, or hut
foundations, "are in two parallel
lines, bounded externallv by banks,
and divided internally by an open
space like a street. A stream divides
the settlement into two parts. In the
most westerly part is a circ. walled
sMce, 35 ft. in diameter." — PhiUips.
(This, however, is only a larger hut-
pit, and the vallum or bank which
runs outside the row of pits is made
to encompass this larger one en-
tirely. It has been observed that in
most of the Dartmoor hut-villages
there is one circle of greater size and
importance than the others — ^the hut
of the chief.) To the N. is one tall
stone, called Danby Long Stone;
and 100 paces to the S. are 3 large
tumuli, that in the centre about 70
ft. in diam. and girt round the
bottom with fair-sized stones. They
are 100 ft. apart. The central tu-
mulus has been opened by ancient
treasure-seekers (who smashed the
urn or urns of the chief interment),
and by modem antiqaaries eariy in
the present century.
(h) Danby CaeUe^ now belonging to
Lord Down, was founded by the
Latimers in the 14th cent The
lordship, with others in N. York-
shire, was given by the Conqueror to
Robert de Bans (see CoiOeUm. post,
and SkeUon, Rte. 17). The Bruces
held it until 1271, when their great
Yorkshire ettates fell to four
^ P
210
Boute 15. — CastleioTL
heiresses, one of whom married Mar-
maduke de Thwen^ His grand-
daughter conveyed Danby to Wm.
Latimer, and a branch of the Nevilles
(also by marriage) became Lords
Lc^timer and owners of Danby ; until,
temp. Eliz., their line also ended in
females, the eldest of whom (retaining
Danby) was wife of Sir John Danvers.
Their son was Charles I.'s Earl of
Danby — a title which died with him,
but was revived in 1674 for Thomas
Osborne, afterwards (for his share in
bringing in William III.) created
Duke of Leeds. Sir John Danvers
(father of the Earl) sold the greater
part of the estate to 5 Danby free-
holders ; and the residue, about 2500
acres, with the manor and its rights,
was sold to Mr., afterwards Sir «K>hn,
Dawnay, whose descendant, Lord
Dawne, retains it.
The castle — which is surrounded
by wild and free hunting-ground —
stands finely, with a wide view over
the valley of the Esk. Its nlan
seems to have been a long parallel-
ogram, with a central ourt, and
s({uare blocks proiecting at the angles.
From some shields of arms inserted
in the N. front (including Bruce,
Latimer, and Thwong, but without
that of Neville), it is probable that
the castle was built 1320-1370—
perhaps b^ William Latimer, 4th
Baron Latimer, who died in 1380,
leaving an only daughter and heiress,
Elizabeth, afterwards xnarried to John
de Neville, of Raby. The angular
projections, S.W. and S.E., were con-
siderably extended, apparently early
in the 17th cent. One of these ad-
<litions is occupied as a farmhouse ;
the oth«r has been destioyed, but
foundations may still be traced. The
window openings in the N. front are
few and narrow. The kitchens seem
to have been here, and the n'incipal
chamben (peihap*) in the N.E. angle.
In the inner court is a veir ^ieti^eftiue
chimney on corbels, and a flight of
steps leading to a room on the wall
in which the coort leets are still held.
The whole building is strong and
massive — ^as was necessarj so near
the Scottish border—and there are
few architectural details; but it is
worth examination by the antiqaarr.
and the artist may find sabjacts for
his pencil among the broken wnlK
with ash-trees and rowans springing
from them, and harebells mrttering
from the ledees. There is a good
view of the N. front from the river
below ; which is crossed by a bridge
having the arms of Neville Lord
Latimer on its keystone. A tradi-
tion in the district asserts that a
queen of England once lived in the
castle; no doubt Catherine Parr.
who married John Lord Latimer.
Caglleton Stat., is a good point from
which to explore the wild country on
either side. A pedestrian who is n(»t
very exacting may get bacon and eggs
and a clean bed at the **JRailwav
Hotel." Castleton itself is a long
village, with a mound, called ** Castlt*
Hill^ (now occupied by a farm-
house), towards its centre. There is
no stone^'ork on the surface; but
distinct foundations of a Norman
castle have been traced here. A Norm,
mullion and red-deer horns have been
found, and there were 8 moats or
water-defences at different levels.
This castle was, no doubt, the work
of the Bruces, lords of the whole d^-
trict after the Conquest ; and it pro-
bably remained the stronghold of
the country until Danby Castle was
built, after the Bruces had passed
away.
A long, but most delightful tmZA*.
may be taken southward from Castle-
ton, proceeding along the crest of
Castleton Ridge (t& views frani
which, into Westerdale on one side,
and iWbydale on the other, are fine,
especially when tiie evening sun is
lighting the valleys with their manv
tree-circled homesteads), by ^Ivh
Cron to Blakey House. (The dis-
ItotUe 15. — Daaniby Ckwrch
211
tance from Castleton Stat, to Blakey
House is about 7 m.) Balph Crofis
(1409 ft.) is on the high watershed,
nmning £. and W., from which the
dales descend N. to the Esk, and
S. toward the Derwent. From Blakey
Hoaie (1325 ft) there is a magni-
ficent view into Bosedale on one
side and Famdale on the other, the
two TalleTS being divided by Blakey
Bidge. (Blakey preserves the old
name, ** Black-a-moor," by which all
this part of Cleveland was formerlv
known.) Farndale, through which
the river Dove nms S., is narrower
and more picturesque than Bosedale ;
but all these dales have the same
general character. Each has its
'' gills'* running up into the high
moor at the dalehead, wooded here
and there, with their burch-trees and
hollies dying away into the moor-
land ; and each has its scars of grey
rock projecting from the steep sides
of heather, that seem to protect the
homesteads nestling below. (From
Blakey House you may cross to the
village of Bosedale, about 4 m. — see
Exc. c from Whitby, — or you may
descend Famdale to Eirkby Moor-
side. This will be a long, though
most picturesque route, and you will
perhaps be inclined to find rough
shelter at Gillamoor (at least 8 m.
&om Blakey House) for the night;
bat it must be remembered that these
remote dales are not to be seen at all
without some sacrifice of comfort.)
— Betoming to Castleton, you may
branch off near Balph Cross, and
take a road across Westerdale Moor,
which will bring you to the village
of Westerdale, marked by the lofty
prospect-tower of the Lodge (Colonel
the Hon, O. Buncombe). Shortly
before reaching the village you pass
the «lfc/ Aofes" (Boof holes), a
nomber of circ. pits of the same
description as those on Danby Moor.
The ch. of Westerdale is modem —
rebuilt 1835. The walk hence to
Castleton commands some striking |
points, most picturesque when thej
heather is in flower. The Esk
runs through Westerdale : and before
reaching Castleton is joined by the
Basedale beck, descending from a
valley, in the higher part of which
was a smidl Cistercian Priory (for
nuns), removed here from Nunthorpe
by Guide de Bovingcourt, temp.
Hen. II. There are no remains
whatever, but the situation deserves
notice from its extreme solitude.
The scenery N. of Castleton is
still wild, but is scarcely so interest-
ing as that S. It will be well seen
in a walk across the moors to Free-
br(mgh HUl (5 m.\ a remarkable
circidar elevation, like a gigantic
tumulus. An almost extinct piece
of folk-lore asserts that Arthur and
his knights lie within the hill, like
the great Emperor Frederick Barba-
rossa in the vaults of Eifh&user,
ready to start forth in their appointed
season. It is natural, since a sand-
stone quarry has been opened in its
side; but the name indicates that
the court of. the Anglian "Free-
burgh " or Tyithing (above which was
the Hundred court) used to assemble
here. (There is another such conical .
hill at Fryup, and Whorlton Hill is
of the same character, though less
pomted.)
Dariby Church, ded. to St. Hilda,
in the midst of its vale, is modem
and uninteresting, but has replaced
a chapel of considerable antiquity,
as the dedication indicates. At the
parsonage is a collection of flint
weapons, urns, &c., gathered from
the howes and tumuli with which
all these moors are dotted. The
vicar is the Bev. J. C Atkinson,
who during a long residence here
has given close attention to the
histoiy, antiquities, and dialect of
the district. To him we are in-
debted for a ' Glossary of the Cleve-
land Dialect,' and 'Clevehmd, An-
cient and Modem,*— books of very
great value, in which the existing
p2
212
Bouie 15. — Commondaie — BurUm Head.
traces of an extensive Dutch coloniza-
tion of Cleveland are pointed out by
a thorouffhlj competent scholar (see
Introd., Cleveland).
Leaving Castleton, the rly. pro-
ceeds through Commonddlen — ^more
properly, says Graves f*Hist. of
Cleveland'}, CdmanddUfOvA hardly
from a cell or resting-place esta-
blished here by Colman, 3rd Bp. of
Lindisfame, for which there is no
shadow of evidence. The name be-
longs to the general group of the
district, and is probably Danish — a
wide and pleasant valley, shut in,
like the rest, by high moors. (Moun-
tain-ashes, bright in autumn with
then: scarlet berries, are here marked
portions of the colouring.) Sleddcde,
a valley descending from the Guis-
borough moors, here sends its beck
towaMs the Esk, which it joins near
Castleton. At
KUdale Stat., is a ch. dedicated
to St. Cuthbert, and rebuilt 1868.
Kildale is the abbreviated form of
Eetildale— *' Ketil " being a Northern
personal name. The Percys (lords of
the manor) had a manoriaJ residence
here, — ^now gone. Their name is re-
tained in tluit of "Percy Cross," on
the moorsabove.
(From this stat. an adventurous
pedestrian may find his way over
the moors to Guisborough — see poet
— about 8 m.)
Beyond Kildale, Eaiby Moor is
seen rt., with Cookie monument on
its top. This is a tall plain colunm,
seen far and wide over the native
district of the great navigator (bom
at Marton, between Guisborough
and Middlesbrough — see Bte. 17),
and erected in 1827, at the cost of
Mr. Campion of Whitby. N. of
£a8by is tlie conical hiU of Bose-
berry Topping. The country soon
becomes open on the rt., and tne line
of the Cleveland Hills, broken, varied,
and picturesque, sweeps round to
thel.
BaU&nby Junct. Stat. (Bte. Ibk.)
A branch rly. for conveyance of
ironstone and minerals passes off rt.
(to join the line near Guisborough).
Inglehy Stat, another good point
from which to explore the moors and
dales S., has a fair Inn, The pri-
vate rly. of the Bosedale Iron Com-
pany here descends the hills by a very
steep incline. Permission is some-
times given to strangers to avail
themselves of it. The Churchy thongh
modernized by ch. wardens 1741, has
a N. arcade Norm, (or even Saxon),
and in chancel two effigies of
priests. Ingleby Manor was a resi-
dence of the Lords Eures, and later
of the Foulis family.
Burton Head (1419 ft.), 1. of the
Ingleby ' Bly., is the highest point
of the watershed, which rises gradu-
ally from the W. Besides a very
extensive prospect N., across the
Tees, and along the far-winding
coast of Durham, the moorland views
here are magnificent, looking over
the dales that pass S. between these
heatheiy ridges. Burton Head is so
called in the Ordnance maps; bat
the true name is Botton (0. Norse
hotn = a deep hollow), and is in con-
nection with Greenhow botton, a
narrow vale below. Danby "bot^
ton," is, in a similar way, often
refined into "burton," which here
is meaninfi^ess. Branadcde, dividing
Famdale, W., is the nanowest of all
these dales ; and BiUdale, np which
runs a tolerably good road, is deep
and fine, with high peaks between
the glens that branch from it toward
the N. end. Edges of freestone rise
here and there from its sides, and at
the pass out of it N. (the hollow
immediately W. of Burton Head)
there is a wide view over the low
country of Cleveland, with Boseberry
Topping conspicuous. The Wain-
stones, Cranimoor, and Carlton Bank-
bare peaks W. of Burton Head, and
separated from one another by the
Bouie 16. — Bosebery Topping.
218
glens tiiat unite to fonn Bilsdale, are
all on the line of watei^ed, which
mdnallj decreases in height from
Barton Head. There is an Inn at
Chfm €hUe, toward ^e upper end of
Bikdale, which a pedestrian maj find
ooDTenient.
StoketH/ey Stat is } m. from the
town (Inn, Black Swan — comfortable
and reasonable), itself without in-
terest, but a centre for some pleasant
excursions. Stokesley Church was
rebuilt in 1771. In the Town Hall,
built 1853, at the sole expense of the
late Robert Hildjard, Esq., is a full-
length portrait of the founder, bj Sir
John Watson (Gordon.
You maj drive from Stokeslej to
Newton for the ascent of Boseberry
Topping, 1 m.,— or the tealk, through
fields and woods, is very pleasant
On the waj you will pass the village
of Affion, where is a Itu-ge agricultund
college. In the village school here
Capt Cook was taught to read. N.
of Avion is Langbargh Midge (bargh,
or ^* barf," as the word is sounded, is
the O. N. Uarg, Danish ty'aerg, and
signifies a long, not very elevated,
hill) running E, and W. in the line
of the basaltic djke. It gives name
to the wapentake, which is co-exten-
sive with the district of Clevehmd ;
and on this ridge the Wapentake
Courts were formerly held. The ba-
saltic dyke is marked generally by
its thicker growth of trees. Mose-
berry Topping^ 1067 ft. above tiie
sea, is a conical peak of lias capped
by sandstone, skghtly bent toward
the N. Its base is clothed with
woods and larch plantations; but
the summit is a fine mass of broken
crag, commanding a wonderful view,
singular from &e many different
heights and ridges which intersect
the vast landscape. Easby Moor, with
Cook's Monument, is conspicuous S.,
with the Cleveland range beyond;
Guisborough with its red roo» and
mined abbey lies in the valley N.,
with the heights of Kirk- and Up-
leatham between it and the sea.
Bather more W. the smoke of Mid-
dlesbrough forges stains the sky, —
more perpetual *< Devil's Kettles*'
than curling mists on the Cleveland
hiUs, to which, as seen from Boseberry,
that nnsavoury title was f onnerly
eiven. Much of the "bishoprick'^
(Durham) lies spread out beyond^
and N.W; a vast level stretches away
N. of Bichmond into Westmoreland,
— a rich superb scene, especially with
the glow of ripe comiields on one
side, and heather purpling the hills
on the other.
Boseberry Topping has under-
gone a remarkable cmmge of name.
From the beginning of the 12th to
the end of the 16tii cent, the hill
in all written documents is called
" Othenesbergh " (with many varia-
tions of form) and " Ounesberry."
"Boseberry" does not appear until
after 1600. '< Topping" signifies a
" crest," or markea eminence, and is
found elsewhere on these moors.
" Othenesbergh " is, no doubt, the
« hill of Odin," and must have been
the name imposed by the Danish
settiers. The etymology of "Bose-
berry" is not so dear; but Mr. At-
kinson suggests, with great proba-
bility, that it is the olden Anglian
name, displaced or translated by
the Danish, and reappearing in the
17th cent " Hreosesbeorh " = Bose-
berry, would be the hiU of the
" rusher," or " raging one," and thus
equivalent to the name of Odin, " the
lord of the air, who chases through
the sky in the roaring stonn."
Boseberry is a sea-mark, and a
weather-sign ; the old rhyme run-
ning—
** WLen Boseberry Topping wears a cap,
Cleveland may beware a dap."
A footpath, seen from the hill,
leads into the high road about 2 m.
from Guisborough. The summit of
Boseberry is 1 m. from the village of
Newton,
214
BoiUe 15.— WhorUon Church.
S. of Stokeriey an expedition may
be made to Wnorlton Church and
Castle, skirting the hill-country. It
maj be continued to Mount Grace
(Ciothufflan Priory), and to Osmother-
ley. There is a good and comfortable
country Inn (the Bkuik Horse) at
Whorltony 7 m. from Stokesley. Os-
motherley is 12 m. Thence you may
cross the country to Northallerton
(8 m.), or reach the WeUmry Stat.,
on the N.E. Rly. (4 m.).
In the ch.-yd. of Kirkbyy a short
distance off the Whorlton road, are
the much mutilated effigies of a
knight and lady, of whom local tra-
dition asserts that they killed them-
selves by (the man) cutting and (the
woman) raking a field of com in one
day.
The great number of terminations
in hy throughout the district again
indicates the extent of the Danish
settlement in this part of Yorkshire.
Bushy HaU (George Marwood, Esq.)*
commanding a very wide view, con-
tains a good St. decilia, perhaps by
Vandyek; a pair of Dutch town
pieces, by J, Mans; and many copies
of good pictures and statues.
Faeeby JKZZ, rising over Whorlton,
is an excellent landmark. Many bars
of sUver were found on its side some
years since by a man in ploughing,
and were thought to have been
plunder from Whorlton Castle.
Whorlton Church (dedicated to
the Holy Cross) was given by Robert
de Meynill (died 1206) to Guis-
borough Priory. It is Norm, and
Dec., with a rerp. ^?) tower over
the S. porch. The aisles have dis-
appearea; and the Norm, arches are
built up on either side. (The N.
aisle, and the adjoining piers, fell
some 50 years since ; the piers were
rebuilt, hence the difference in height
between the 2 sides.) The font is
rude Nonn. on a circ. pillar. The
chancel arch is mde Norm., with
roundheaded recesses (perhaps ha-
gioscopes) built up on either side.
The chancel, early Dec., with heads
at the base of the window muUions,
and other corbel-heads fcnr brackets,
all covered with whitewash. On
the N. side is an E. E. chantry,
between which and the chancel is
a fine Dec. aJtar-tomb with canopy.
This is probably the tomb of Sir
Nicholas de Meynill, who died in
1343, having married a daughter of
William Lord Boos. The arms of
Mejnill are in the canopy, and the
water bougets of Boos on the central
shield of the altar-tomb. (It is, how-
ever, uncertain to whom this tomb
should be assigned. On the tomb is
placed the oaken effigy of (no doubt)
an earlier Sir Nicholas de Meynill
(died circ. 1300). He is cross-legged,
and wears the hawberk and dose
hood of mail, vnth long surcoat, opPA
in front. The effigy is loose on the
tomb, and is hollow. It is one of
the earliest oaken effigies (rare at
any time) in England, and, (dthoagh
of rude execution, it deserves carenil
attention.
In the walls of the tower many
tomb-slabs with crosses are built up.
Henry VIH. gave Whorlton to
Stewart, Earl of Lennox, who, by his
wife Margaret (niece of Henry VIII.),
was father of the Earl of Damley,
husband of Queen Mary of Scotland :
and it was during the residence of
Margaret Lennox at Whorlton Castle
that the intrigues were carried on
which ended in that luckless marriage.
Whorlton was afterwards granted to
Bruce of Kinloss, whose son was
created Lord Bruce of Whorlton by
Charles I. His representatives, the
Earlsof Aylesbury, still possess it.
The gatehouse of the castle re-
mains nearly perfect, and is a very
fine example, probably temp. Bichaid
II., as the anns in front indicate.
They are Darcy (in the centre),
Meynill (rt), and Gray (I.). (Philip
BotUe 15. — Seugdale — OrcUhome.
215
Darcy married Elisabeth Gray of
Het(m, temp. Richard H.) Above
is a shield impaling Darcj and
Meynill. There is an outer and
inner portal, with an open (once
vaulted ?) passage between them,
and many rooms on either side.
Remark the arrangement in the
wall for fastexiing the great outer
gates. A staircase (from the rt
near the inner portal), rises to the
top. The whole has been protected
by a moat, which surrounded the
castle, and drawbridge. Some vaults,
covered with mason s marks, are the
only remaina of the castle itself, and
may be of the 12th cent. There is
a wide view from the castle hill,
stretching towards Richmond on one
side, and to Rosebenry Topping on
the other.
Seugdale, running up into the
high mooiB, opens beyond Whorlton.
From Searih Niek there is a very
fioe view, and from the hiU above it
a still finer, stretching to the mouth
of the Tees, and from uie great central
vde of Yorkshire, beyond Richmond,
to the moors over Appleby in West-
moreland. Farther S. the flat sum-
mit of Fen Hill in Wensleydale may
be distinguished.
The range of hills (still distin-
guished as the ''Cleveland Hills'*)
is here broken at intervals, and is
fine in outline, with scars of rock,
and much wood clustering below;
all are of lias, capped by sandstone.
ArneUfe (erne = eagle) is a pictur-
esque range of wood^ hill, witn pro-
jectinfi^ crags. Close to ArnoUffe HaU
(Dongas Brown, Esq.) is the modem
Ckunhj containing a mutilated effigy
(tmp. Edward H.) of (probably) Sir
Bob^ de Ck>lville, who was concerned
in the death of Gaveston. The arms
of Colville are on the stone. He mar-
ried the daughter of Robert Ingehram,
whose family had long been lords
here. At l£>unt Grace we reach the
limits of Cleveland. For it and for
Osmottierley, see Rte. IQ.
Between Stokesley and Picton
Junct. there are stats, at Sexhow,
Potto, and Trenhohne Bar. The
Ch. of Budby m m. N. of Sexhow
StcU.) contains E. E. portions, and is
of some interest. It stands on the
river Leven (Ueven, Celt. — smooth),
which, descending from the hills,
winds through this low country, and
joins the Tees at Yaim.
Trenhohne Stat., 2 ul N. of Cra-
thome, is said, but most questionably,
to have been the residence of the
Crathomes from the period of the
Conquest. In the ch. is the cross-
legged effigy of Sir Wm. Crathome,
circ. 1322. There is a Norm, chancel
arch in the ch. of Kirklevington
higher up the river; and Castle
L&vington, in this parish, is a good
circular earthwork.
PieUm Junct. Stat. The Cleveland
line here meets the rly. from Northal-
lerton to Stockton. The border of
Yorkshire is soon reached at
Yarm Stat., a small town of no in-
terest. (The name is Danish — Jarum
in its old form; there is a Jarum
(Hjardum) in S. Jutland.) The ch.,
rebuilt in 1730, contains an E. win-
dow, filled with stained glass by
Pocket of York. A 14th cent, bridge,
built by Bp. Skirlaw, here spans the
Tees, which the rly. crosses by a long
viaduct, and proceeds along its Durham
bank by
Sagleecliffe Junct. to
Stoektan Junct. Stat. (See Hand-
hock for Durham.)
216 Bouie l6A.—WJiitbif to Guiahoraugh and Middlesbrough.
founded here either in 1119 or in
1129 (the date is uncertain), bv Bobert
de Bms (whose brother was the first
prior), lord of Skelton (see Rte. 17),
and of great part of North ClevelaiuL
It was richly endowed with, among
others, the whole manor of Ouis-
borough ; and at the Dissolution, when
its annual (gross) value was 7122., it
was the wealthiest religious house in
Yorkshire, except St. Alarm's at York,
Fountains, and Selby. lii 1375 the
prior had a licence to fortify his con-
vent, which was too near the b(»der to
be quite safe. Hemineford, the Chro-
nicler (Edw. L, n., in.), was a canon
of Guisborough; and Bobert Purs-
glove, suffragan Bp. of Hull, was the
last prior. ** The ch. was burnt down
AND (May 16, 1289) through the care-
lessness of a plumber at work on the
roof, and the canons seem to have
set to work at once on its rebuilding.
The £. end, very lofty, and conspi-
cuous in all distant views, is the
principal relic of this later ch. No
part of the lateral walls remains ex-
cept the responds of the arcade, and
some fragments which formed the
angle wim the eastern wall. The
church was 367 ft. long and 68 ft.
wide. The window above the hif^
altar, 60 x 28 ft, filled nearly the
whole of the end of the choir, and
must have been one of the largest of
its date and style (early Dec.) in
England; but the panelled wall
below the base has been torn down.
ROUTE 15a.
WHITBY TO QUI8BOROUGH
MIDDLESBROUGH.
As far as
Batter Ay Junct. Stat This Boute
is described in Bte. 15.
Ay ton Stat. In this village Capt.
Cook went to school.
Nunthorpe Junct Stat
Here a branch rly. diverges by
Pincidugtiiorpe Stat., to
OuUborough Stat
Guisborough (Inn9: Cock, best;
Buck.— Pop., in 1881, 6616) is sur-
rounded by some pretty scenery,
though few will be inclined to compare
it, as Camden has done, with Puteoli in
Italy, for *' grateful variety and other
advantages of nature." Guisborough
has become the " capital " of the iron-
diggers in this neighbourhood, and
entire new streets have arisen for
their accommodation. The only
points of interest here are the prioiy
ruins and the church.
An Augustinian *Friory was
and the tracery destroyed. It has
been enclosed in a highly enriched
moulding of vine-leaves and grapes,
and had 2 great sub-arches, sur-
moimted, like the £. window at
Bipon, by a wheel enclosing 6 tre-
foils. On the jambs are the armorial
shields of Bruce, Bulmer of Wilton,
and Thwenge of Kilton. There are
many fragments of Norm, capitals
and mouldings in the shattered wall
below.
" The B. window of each side aisle
has beautifully copiposed moulding
Boute 15a, — Guiisborough : Parish Church — Longhull. 217
with capitals enriched with oak-
leaves. Th^y are of 3 lights, the
tnieezy formed bj 2 quatrefoils sur-
mounted by a trefoil. The lateral
windows of the aisles have been
similar to them, except that the vine-
leaf moulding across has not been
intiodnced.
Excavations made by Admiral
Cfaaloner in 1867 laid bare the
ground plan of the ch., and brought
to light many stone coffins, one of
them being that of the founder, or of
a later Bobert Bruce, the competitor
for the Scottish crown.
The Tower of the Gatehoute^ with
circular arch of Tran8.-Norm. date,
still remains, opening from the town.
Many of the Bruces, and other great
lords of this part of Yorkshire, were
interred here. "A passage," says a
piece of local " folklore," " leads from
the priory to a cave under the hills,
in wnic^ is a chest of gold, guarded
by a raven.** The prior is said to
have kept ** a most pompous house,"
but there are few remains of the
domestic buildings, except the cellar
of the refectory.
The Paritih Church was given to
the priory by the founder. It is
now Perp., and much barbarized.
Li the porch, under the W. tower, is
an altar-tomb, which has been divided
so as to allow of one side being fixed
to either wall. Dugdale, who eives
ft plate of it when perfect Q Mon.
Ang., ii. 148), says it was " lately in
the Prionr church." It is of the
time of Heniy VII., and probably
a cenotaph either of Bobert Bruce,
King of Scotland, or of his grand-
father, Bobert de Bruce, the com-
petitor for that crown, who was
buried in Guisborough Priory in
12&4. At the W. end, now in the pos-
session of Admiral Chaloner of Long-
hidl, was the full-length effigy of a
kmg, crowned, holding a sceptre in his
right hand, and the arms of Scotland
before him with the other ; a smaller
figure, crowned and holding a sceptre,
standing on each side of him. These,
perhaps, represented David Bruce,
King of Scotland, and Edward Bruce,
Eine of Ireland. In the spandrels
of the arch or niche under which
they are placed are shields bearing a
lion rampant for Bruce of Skelton,
and a saltire and chief for Bruce
of Annandale. Five armed figures
on the N. side of the tomb bear the
former arms on their shields, — ^three
on the S. side the latter. The whole
has been smeared with paint.
Longhull rbuilt 1857} has been the
property of the Chaloner family since
the reign of Philip and Mary, when
the manor, which on the Disolution
fell to the Crown, was granted to Sir
Thomas Chaloner. It was this Sir
Thomas who began the working of
alum in Engknd. Whilst travefiing
in Italy he is said to have been struck
with the resemblance of the soil about
the Papal alum-works near Bome to
that of Guisborough; and with the
fact that in both places the leaves of
the trees were of a paler green than
usual. On his return he began works
here, but found it necessary to smuggle
workmen from Bome; the result
being that Sir Thomas was excom-
municated by the Pope. (The form
of this papal excommunication, a
copy of which was served on Sir
Thomas, is said, with whatever truth,
to have served as the original of
that in Steme*s * Tristram Shandy.'
Sterne was frequently at Skelton in
this neighbournood, see Bte. 17.)
Alum is now little worked hero;
but ironstone quarries have been
opened in many places, — bv no
means to the improvement of the
scenery.
There is a Spa (chalybeate, now un-
used), and a very pleasant walk to it
through the wood, with waterfalls on
the beck, about 2 m. from the town,
218
BoiOe IQ.—Torh to DarUngton—Easingwold.
You may continue the walk to SkeH-
ton, and if you please, to Saltburn.
(For all this country see SaUbum,
Kte. 17.)
Returning from Guisborough to
Nunthorpe Junct. Stat., the rly.
proceeds by
Ormettley Stat.. 1 m. rt. is Marton,
birthplace of Capt. Cook (see Mid-
dlesbrough).
Middlesbrough Junct. Stat, in Rte.
X7.
ROUTE 16.
YORK TO DARUNQTON, BT THIRSK
AND NORTH ALLERTON.
(NoHk'Easlem Railway.)
This line of rly. which passes
through the great central vale of
York, keeping somewhat W. of the
old North road, is at first uninterest-
ing. £. of Poppleton Ch. it crosses
the Ouse by a bridge of 3 arches
cased with stone, 300 ft. long. Rt. of
the line, for at least 15 m., the forest
of Galtres (see Rte. 1, Excursion
from York) anciently extended.
From
5} m. Shiptcn Stat, the churches
of Skelton, Overton, and Nun Monk-
ton, may be visited (see Rte. 1, Ex-
cursion from York). The forces under
Archbp. Scrope and the Northeni
lords encamped (1405) at Shipton,
whilst Henry IV. was at Pantef ract
Passing
9i m. TcXlerton Stat., we reach
11} m. Alne, where the ch. has
some interesting Norm, portions. The
pcnrtal, with inscriptions among the
medallions, deserves special notice.
TEoHngtooid, 2 m. N.E. from Ahie, at
the foot of the so-called " Howaidian "
hills, may be visited from this station.
An omnibus meets some of the
trains. EaMngxBold (Pop. 2153) is
a pleasant town in a well-wooded
country — the northern termination
of the ancient forest. The ch. is
ancient (Dec., restored 1858; there
are some memorial windows of
stained glass), but of little inte-
rest. On an isolated hiU, 3 m. E.,
are the remains of Crayke CtuUs;
worth a visit. The parish of Crayke
is one of those portions of Yorkshire
which belong to Durham, and which
are said to have been attached to
the great monastery there after the
shrine of St Outhbert had rested on
them during its wanderings. They
were freed from all burdens by
Thomas of Bayeux, the first Norman
Archbp. of York, who was ordered
to sruit such an immunity by St.
Outhbert himself. The saint ap-
peared to the archbp. in sleeo, as he
rested before his shrine at Durham,
cured him of fever, and exacted this
reward. The archbp. himself tells
the stoiy in an encyclical. The
Bps. of Durham had a CastU here
from a very early period, but the
existing square building (which
should be compared witii Sheriff
Hutton and Bolton) was built en-
tirely by Bp. Robert Neville (1438-
1457). It was one of the Yorkshire
Boute 16.—Tlursh.
219
castles ordered to be *< slighted" by
the Parliament of 1646; and it re-
mained in a rained condition until
Wm. Waite, Esq., restored a portion
of it and maide it his residence. There
is a very fine view from the Castle
hill, commanding the great plain,
with its bomidarj of hi&s, and the
towers of York, over the old forest
ground, southward. Grayke Ch. is
kte Perp.]
Between Alne and the next stat
the Howardian hills are seen rt.
Crayke Castle is also visible. At
13i m. SaOcdf Stat there is (} m.
E. of the stat) a Church of some in-
terest, with Tran8.-Norm. portions,
and a wooden tower, dating perhaps
from the 17th cent. (There ore oaken
towers at Itchinfield, Wamham, and
Sl'mfold in Sussex — all, like Baskelf,
in a great forest district. These
Sussex towers are very late Dec.)
The piers in the chancel at Baskelf
are abo of wood, but earlier. There
are some fragments of stained glass.
At this station, and beyond it to
Tbmk^ the figure of a Wkite Horse
is visible on the brow of the Hamble-
ton hills (see pod) rt. It was cut
in 1857 under me direction of a Mr.
Taylor, bom at Kilbum (a village
imder the hill), who, living in
London, wished to render his native
disbrict conspicuous by this rival of
the famous Berkshire steed. The
white effect is produced by lime laid
on the earth from which the turf
has been removed. It covers nearly
2 acres.
16| m. Pilmoor Junct. Stat Here
branch lines pass to Borouehbridge
(Bte. lay-'and to Knaresborough,
by Braffoton.
A Rly. runs E. through Byedale (be-
tween the Hambleton and Howardian
hills), by Coxwold and Gilling, to
Malton, with a branch from C^uling
to Helmsley, Rievaulx and Pickering
(Bte. 18a). At
18} m. 8e88ay Stat there is a ch.
rebuilt in 1848 by Viscount Downe
(Butterfield, archit). In it is the
brass of Thos. Biagnus, Archdeacon
of the East Biding and '' Parson "* of
Sessay, d. 1550, wearing a cope. He
was also the last master of St.
Leonardos Hosnital, York. There is a
legend that ne was found in the
porch of Sessay ch. by some York-
shire clothiers, who a^eed to bring
him up among them, calling him
" Thomas amang ub,*' afterwards cor-
rupted to '< Magnus.** Leaving 1.
Topchffe and Baldersby (see Bte. 22),
we reach
22} m. Think Junct. Stat, whence
a line runs 1. to Bipon. An omnibus
to the town (1 m.).
TfUrtk (Inns : Qolden Fleece, best ;
Three Tuns. Pop. of borough in
1881, 5750) a rather picturesque town
with a large agricuHural market, is
the best station from which to visit
the Hambleton hills, and the plea-
sant scenery of their western slopes
Thirsk, from the time of the Con-
auest, was the "CJaput baronise" of
be great house of Mowbray, — whose
castle here was pulled down temp.
Hen. n. No traces remain ; and the
sole point of interest in the town is
The * Church (said — ^but most im-
probably, judgmg from its masonry —
to have been built with the stone of
the Mowbray's castle), which will
strike and interest the ordinary tourist
no less than the professed arduB-
ologist It is throughout Perp., and
underwent sparing but judicious re-
st<»ation at the tumds of Ed. Street,
at a cost of 7000Z., 1874. It was
S'ven by Boger de Mowbray, temp,
ich. L, to the Priory of Newbuigh ;
and since the Dissolution has been in
tihe patronage of the Archbp. On the
exterior remark the lofty tower with
220
Boute 16.— Tkh-ldeby— Leake Church.
its mBfisive battresses, and a figure
of the Virgin and Child in a niche
over the W. window ; the open para-
pets above the windows of the aisles
and clerestoiy ; the staged bnttreeses
which rise between these windows;
and the singular gurgoyles projecting
from them at the basis of their pin-
nacles. Within^ the main arcade is
of unusual beauty and purity ; above
it are lofty clerestory windows, of the
same design as those in the aisles;
and the superb original roof (said
to be of Irish oak) remains un-
touched in both nave and aisles —
much enriched with carved bosses,
and with figures of angels bearing
shields. The font also retains its
original Perp. canopy. There are
some good old bench-ends in the S.
aisle ; and the eastern bays of both
aisles are separated by screens of
carved oak, of the usual Yorkshire
type. The arch between the nave
and chancel is modem. The chancel
itself was restored in 1844, when an
entirely new roof was placed on it
of the same general character as that
in the nave, but not so good. There
are three sedilia; and a tref oiled
niche on either side of the altar.
The glass in the E. window was
painted bv Lady Frankland Russell
of Thirkleby Park, and her daughters.
The altar is a table of carved oak,
said (without much reason, since it is
apparently of later date) to have
belonged to Byland Abbey; curious
and worth preservation. In the £.
window of the S. aisle is some good
old Perp. glass, in which, besides a
head of Our Lord, the figures of St
Margaret, St. Catherine, St Giles,
St Leonard, Anna, and Cleophas
are conspicuous. There are besides
manycoats-of-anns, including France
and England quarterly, and the lion
of Mowbray. On the N. side of the
chancel a panelled door opens to a
staircase lading to what is called a
crypt, but which is in effect a room
aboveground (the ch. stands on a
bank, overlooking the Caldbeck, a
tributary of the Swale), now used la
a schoolroom. The piyielled. work en
the door leading to the crypt, and its
square padlock, should be noticed. I
ThirJdAyr 4 m. S.E. of Thirsk, w«.^
the seat of the late Sir R FrankLind
Bussell, Bart, and now of Sir Wm.
Payne Gallwey, Bart It is ap-
proached by a' long and remarkable
avenue of Scots fir. The ch. was re-
built (ISdOT) as a memorial of Sir
B. F. Bussell, by his widow. Rog«
de Thirkleby, Chief Justice of the
Court of Common Pleas, 1242, was &
native of this place.
TKUvingtun Church, on the road
to Stockton, 1} m. N. of Thirsk, is
chiefly early Dec., but has some
more ancient portions. The chancel
arch is unusuaL The stunted piers
on either side rest on a solid wall
to which a chancel screen, or pierced
fates, may have been fastened. The
font bears the name of Thos. Lord
Scrope (d. 1494) and Elizabeth his
wife. (See Archseologia, voL zvi.)
At the vicarage are some drawings by
Turner.
Leake Church, 5 m. farther on
the same road, suffered greatly during
the Scottish foray of 1319, when the
town of Northallerton was burnt It
contains some early portions, and
fragments of 14th cent screenwork.
One of the beUs is said to have been
brought from Bievaulx. There are
indications that a large village once
existed near the ch., but it seems to
have been entirely destroyed by the
Scots, and was never rebuilt The
benefice is included in Archbp. Mel-
ton's return of churches, of which the
valuation guiding the payment of
tithes was to be reduced on account
of this foray. In 1852 a mass of
human bones was found buried with-
out arrangement near the dL-yari
and with them a ouantity of silver
coins, chiefly temp. Edw. J,
Bouie IG.'-Whiiestone Cliff— FelUkirh.
221
3 ni. to the N.E. of Leake is the
ateresting little ch. of All Saints,
>ver Silton. In the chancel are the
emains of an elaboratelj carved
creen. The arms of Neville and
>crope, Archbps. of York in the 14th
;ent., are yet to be seen on the nave
tx>f . The dL is in a disgraceful state
>f ^srepair.
[The HambUUm HtUs, which here
bound on the £. the great central
plain (eenerallj known as the " plain
of York " farther S. ; but here, from
its ancient lords, as the ** plain of
Mowbray"), rise about 5 m. W.
of ThirsL Thej consist of the upper
oolitic (calcareous) strata, which ranee
S. of the lower oolite foiftaning t£e
northern moorlands and the Cleve-
land hills. These calcareous hills
range W. from Scarborough Castle to
Bbick Hambleton (1289 ft), which
is their highest point. Here they
turn S. ; and at Kilbum Common
trend away sharply toward the S.E.
The rtHe of the Rye divides these cal-
careons hills from the range of lower
oolite forming the so-called Howardian
hills.
The Hambleton hills are steeply
escarped toward the N. and W. On
the W. side three great precipices
occur, one above Soltby, another
opposite Thirsk, and a third at
Rolston, where the hills turn S.£.
These " great inland cliffs, which are
among the most striking phenomena
of Yorkshire, only differ from sea-
diJb because the water no longer
beats af;ain8t them. The Hambleton
hiUs, me wolds .... were cliffs
against a wide sea." — PhiUips,
Whilettone CUf (that opposite
Think) is especially worthy of a
visit; and the country all along the
foot of the hills is very pleasant
and picturesque— well-wooded, and
affordmg striking views S. and W.
You may proc^ from Thirsk to
Feliskirk, wnere is a ch. worth notice
-thence to GK>rmire— and then climb
Whitestone Cliff, — ^returning to Thirsk
by the village of Sutton. This round
will be about 15 m. (You may
drive, or a good pedestrian may walk
across the hills by Rievaulx to
Helmsley.^ From Whitestone Cliff
to Helmsley is about 10 m., but
of very rough walking and still
rougher driving. The scenery is very
beautiful.
FeUskirk, 2 J m. from Thirsk (the
ch. is dedicated to St. Felix, the
" Apostle " and first bishop (630-647)
of the East Anglians — ^there was a
close connection between the royal
house of E. Anglia and that of
Northumbria), nestles in a hollow
between wooded hills. The ch.,
which has been almost rebuilt
(Dykes, architect), is nevertheless
interesting. It is Norm., with early
Dec. S. aisle (piers and arches),
and an entirely new N. aisle and
chancel apse. The latter follows
the plan of the old apse, which had
been cut off with a flat eastern end
in the Perp. period. It is Norm.,
with a wall arcade, and 3 window's
with stepped sills above. Here arc
two very good effigies perfect to the
minutest details, a knignt and a lady,
circ. 1310; which have been assigned
to the De Bos family. Remark the
strings for tying the chain mail at
the wrists ; fl^ the graceful manner
in which the lady s robe is folded
round her feet, which are visible.
The stained glass has been collected
from different parts of the ch., and
placed in the window above the
knights effigy. A shield with the
three water bougets of De Ros occurs
among the fragments. Byland Abbey
possessed some property in this
parish; but the en. at the Dissolu-
tion belonged to the Preceptory of
Mount St. John.
Close above Feliskirk is Mount 8i.
John (puxchased from the Eccle-
siastical Commissioners by Messrs.
J and E. Walker), where was a Pre-
222
Baute U.-^Feliahirk—WkUeatone CUff.
ceptorjof Knights Hospitallers. There
are no remains worth notice.
a m. N.W. of Feliskirk is NevUon
Hotue, said to have been the oc-
casional residence of Nevison, one of
the most famous freebooters of the
17th cent. He was called bj Chas. II.
^^ SuAft Nick^ and is said to have
been the true hero of the ride to
York, generally assigned to Turpin.
New BuUdingy at Kirkby Knowle (2
m. N.) was bought by James Danby,
Esq., from the Constables, in 1653.
He enlarged the mansion. It is a
curious house (now a farm), with
a secret chamber or hiding-place.
There is a very fine view from it
i m. S. of New Building is Up8cdl
CcuUey once a seat of a family of the
same name, of whom Sir Geoffry de
Upsale, probably the last of the race,
d. in 1349 ; and afterwards the chief
residence of the Lords Scrope, of
Masham and Upsal, one of whom
built the house, which has been
quadrangular ' with towers at the
corners. It is now a farm. There
is a very extensive prospect from this
beautiful site.)
A pleasant, wooded road, with
fine views S., and the heathy moors
and cliffs rising in front, leads from
Feliskirk to Gormire (3 m.). This,
the only considerable " tarn " of the
E. Yorkshire hills, is about f m. in
circumference. On the £. rises for
about 500 ft the steep slope of the
embankment, thickly strewn with
fra^ents from Whitestone Cliff,
which forms 100 ft of sheer precipice
at the back. On the other sides of^the
lake is a high ridge of arenaceous hilL
''There are no streams except the
mere runnels of the hill-bank which
flow into it, and none flow from it ;
so that its waters are mainly sup-
plied by rain, and diminished by
evaporation."— J^ G. B. The hollow
of we lake was probably formed by a
great landslip,* which may have
occurred as far back as the glacisl
period.
The road winds round the lake,
and then climbs the hill (which is
one of Uie worst in YorkBfaire far
horses to get up, if the carriage be at
at all heavy), amid scenes of great
beauty. " From the summit of White-
stone Cliff the view on a clear day is
very fine and extensive. Immediately
beneaUi are the precipice and the
lake, and the steep embankment
covered with thickets of brake and
blackthorn, and thickly strewn with
fallen piles, confusedly upheaped. of
massive and angular rocks. From
Boltby Moor, southward to Hook Hill.
a pleasant, undulated, wooded tract
extends; and beyond, the broad
central valley is spread out like a map
from the Tees southward as far as
York, with Thirsk and Ripon marked
conspicuously, and the lines of rail-
way easily traceable by the smoke of
passing and repassing trains. And
beyond stretch the western moors,
the huge bulk of Penhill looming in
front to shut in Wensleydale like a
barrier ; and the higher great Whem-
side Pe»k, on the S. of it, for a focus
from which the undulated lines of hill
stretch N. and S. till they are lost to
view in misty distance."—-/. G, Baker.
This is the scene of Wordsworth's
well-known sonnet : —
" Dark and more dark the Bbades of evening
fell;
The wished-for point was reached, bat late
the hour.
And little could be gained ttom all tlMt
dower
Of prospect, whereof many thoosands tell ;
Yet did the glowing West In all Its power
Salute na:— there stood Indian citadel,
Temple of Greece, and Minster with its
tower
Substantially expres8ed,~a place fn bell
Or clock to toll from. — ^Mauy a tempting
Isle
With groves that never were Imagined, U,v
'MIdftt seas how steadfast ! ol^fect for the eye
Of silent rapture ; but we felt the while
We should forget them; they are of the
iky
And lh»m our earthly memory fade away."
Whitestone CUff is sometimes called
Bouie lQ,—HanU>lei(m Hills— Tkamtan-le'Street.
223
»» the White Mear,*" or " White Mare
Crag," and there is a legend that
*«once on a time" a white mare,
carrying a young hidy, took fright,
and bounded over it The body of
the young lady, it is added, was
never found. The name "White
Mear" is probably a corruption of
white "mire," or "mere," referring
to the lake now known as Oormire.
The Hambleton hills, from Black
Ilambleton to Whitestone Cliff, have
long been used as a race-course and
a training-ground ; and it is possible
that a restive horse may at some time
rarried its rider over the cliff. (On
the moor above Gormire is the Ham-
Ueton Hcid, with indifferent accom-
modation, but with stables for race-
horses.) There were annual races
at Black Hambleton from 1715 to
1770. This **mear" must not be
confounded with the white mare on
the hill-side above Bolstone (s^e ante).
A local rhyme runs : —
** When Goimlre rfggB ihall be covered with
The white mare of Whitestone Qiff wUI
bear It »^vay."
(2 m. S. of Gormire is Hood Orange,
near which the Mowbrays had a castle.
At the Grange are the walls of an
ancient ehape^ which, perhaps, marks
the site of the hamitage where the
modks were received who afterwards
settled at Byhmd. (See Rte. 18.)
On the top of Hood Hill is a large
stone, said to have been dropped there
by the devil in his flight)
Ancient dykes and tumuli occur
frequently on the Hambleton hills,
which are covered with short bent
grass, mixed with heather and bil-
t)erries : and such names as " Scotch
Comer" and "Douglas Ridge*' (the
latter on the Clevelands, opposite
Black Hambleton) may perhaps be
traced to the great forays of 1319 and
1322, when the Scots, under the
Black Douglas, devastated all this
part of Yorkshire, and (in the latter
year), after surprising and taking
prisoner the Earl of Richmond,
in the hiUs between Byland and
Rievaulx, nearly made a captive of
Edward H. himself, who was obliged
to fly in all haste from Rievaulx.]
Tkir8ktoN,AlUrion.
Proceeding N. from Thirsk, the
rly. passes rt. the seat of Earl
Cathcart, a little to the E. of ^om-
ton-le-8treet (on the line of a Roman
road from Catterick — Cataractoniuin
—to York. At Thomton-le-Street
HaU (Earl Cathcart), formerlv called
" Wood End," there is a good collec-
tion of pictures, — ^four deserving par-
ticular notice: — (1.) A portrait of
Biary Queen of Scots, crowned, sup-
posed to have been painted by Richard
Stephens, a Flemish artist ; and saici
to have been brought by Charles, 8th
Lord Cathcart, who was educated at
Leyden, from the ch. of St Andrew
at Antwerp. A portrait of the Queen,
engraved on copper, still exists in that
eh. on the upper part of a mural
monument to tne memory of Barbara
Mowbray and Elizabeth Curie, women
of her bedchamber, who, after her
execution, "fled from their country
to the protection of the Catholic King,
on account of the true religion." (2.)
A Clatide, verified by the Liber Veri-
toHe. (3.) A painting on panel, pro-
bably by Breughel, which has the
brand of Charles I., and the inscrip-
tion " Given to the King by my Lord
Newcastle, 1634." (4.) An original
likeness of Napoleon I., purchased at
St. Petersburg by the 1st Earl, when
ambassador at that court. Behind the
picture is the certificate, " Le portrait
a 4i4 fait moi d*apres nature, pendant
le d^ieflner de Napol^n aprte la paix
de Tilsit— Riesener." The Church of
Thornton contains monuments of the
Cromptons, Talbots, and Pudsep.
Nearly opposite, 1 of the rly., is
224
Boute 16,— North Allerton.
Ki'rkhy Wiske (on the river Wiske
(vwge, Celt. = water, the most
sluggish of Yorkshire streams, which
joins the Swale a short distance S.),
remarkable as the birthplace (1515)
of Roger Aaciham, the friend of Lady
Jane Grey and the tutor of Queen
Elizabeth. His father was steward
t.0 the Scropes. Dr. George Hickes,
and Dr. PaJliser, Archbp. of Tuam,
were also bom here. The ch. (re-
stored 1872, G, E. Street, archit.) has
a richly ornamented Norm, doorway
on the S. side of the nave, and a fine
Dec. chancel, with some fragments
of stained glass in the £. window.
Passing
26} m. OtteHngton Stat., we reach
30 m. North AUerton Junct. Stat.
(1. Kailwars ran to Bodale and Leybum,
Kte. 23 ; to Hawes rt. by Plcton JaDction to
Stockton, and S. to RIpon and Harrogate^
aeesoft).
I\)p. of borough In 1881. 3692. /im: tbe
•lolden Lion, representing the Black Swan of
Sydney SmlUi, whfcdl never existed. ** I shall
Iw glad to bear." be writes to Lady Grey,
" that yoQ are safely landed in Portman Square
with all your young ones : bat do not set off
too noon, or yon will be laid tip at the Black
Swan, Northallerton, or the Elephant and
(^6tle, Borougbbridge ; and your bill will
come to a thousand pounds, besides the waiter,
who will most probably apply for a place
under Gtevemment.**
Tbe visitor may try whether the ** hum-
ming northern ale" of this place is as admir-
abie as In the days of one George MerytoOt
«omethne an attorney here, who (16»5), in
▼enes praising ** Yorkshire ale," asserts that
** Xorthallerton, in Yorkshire, does excell
All England, nay, all Europo, for strong
ale.'*
North AUerton (the many Aller-
tons in Yorkshire are probably named
from the alder-tree — «lr, A.-S.; Lower
Sax. el/er, still nsed in Yorkshire)
consists mainly of one long ana
broad street, with the ch. (the sole
point of interest in the town) at its
i»f. end. There was a Roman en-
campment (possibly a station) here,
the site of which, known as the
'* Castle Hills,*' adjoins the rly., but
only a fragment of the inijenchinent>
remains. Roman coins, urns, and (it
is said) a portion of a votive altar,
have been found within the area.
The Domesday Survey records the
manor of North Allerton as haying
" soke " (power to administer justice)
over certain of the neigfabouiing
manors, which have ever since formed
the district known as '^Northaller-
tonshire." The manor was given bj
Rufus to William de Garileph, Bp. of
Durham; and (except during the
Ck)mmonwealth) it remained imrt of
the '*land of St. Cuthberf^ until
1836, when it passed into the hands
of the ecclesiastical commissianeis.
The bishops built a castle here, which
was razed by Hen. U. in 1177, after
the defeat and capture of William of
Scotland, whom Bp. Hugh Pndsev
had been supporting. A palace or
manor-house was built on the site
(now the cemeteir, about 200 yards
W. of the ch.). It was occupied, at
different times, by Edward I., il., and
in.; and in 1502 Margaret, eldest
daughter of Henry VIL, rested here
on her way to her bridegroom. King
James of Scotland. This palace was
ruined during the civil wars, and no
fragment remains.
From its nosition on the great
North road, North Allerton was the
usual gathering-place of the York-
shire men-at-arms, when an expedi-
tion against Scotland was on foot.
The same cause led to the fighting
of the famous battle of the Standard
(see pod) in its neighbourhood, in
1138 ; and to the burning of the toiKu
by the Scots in 1819 and 1322. The
"northern earls" were here during
the "Rising of the North "* in 1509;
and many executions took place in
North AUerton afterwards. In l&tO
the king's forces under Strafford were
here; and in 1G17 Eling Charles
himself rested here as a prisoner in
the hands of the Scots. (He was
lodged in the "Porch House" near
the ch., now much modernised.)
Itouie 16. — North AllerUm : Grammar SekooL
226
The Duke of CumberUuid^s aimj, oa
its w»7 to Scotland in 1745, was
encamped for some time on the Castle
Hills; the intrenchments were then
perfect.
The Church of North Allerton
was given with the other "• chniches
of St. Cuthhert" in Yorkshire, by
Bp. Hogh Podsey, to the Prior and
Convent of Dmiiam. It is said to
have been burnt by the Scots in 1318 ;
bat this can only mean that the wood-
work (and probably the central tower)
was destzoyed. It is cmciform, with
a central tower and transepts. The
N. side of the nave has massive Norm.
piers. The S. side is E. Eng., as (but
of somewhat later character) are the
transepts. The centred tower, with
its piers, is Pen. ; and was the work
of Bp. Hatfield (1345-1381) and of
Edward HI. The chancel was en-
tirely rebuilt in 1779. There is a
large Perp* window in the S. transept,
and an E. Eng. portal witiiin the S.
DOTch. The K>nt dates from 1662.
There are no monuments of interest.
Fisher, Bp. of Bochester (beheaded
1535), and Dr. Townsend, author of a
'Chronological Arrangement of the
Bible,' were vicars of North Allerton.
The ^af/unar School (a modem
building) was apparentlv founded at
a very early penod by the Prior and
Convent of Durham. It is remark-
able for a company of scholars edu-
cated here in the 17th cent., by
Thomas Smelt, an '< excellent gram-
marian," of whom some notices are
preserved in Hickes's *Life of Eet-
tlewell.' These were Thomtu Burnet
(bom at Croft in 1635), author of the
'Telluris Theora Sacra,* and one of
the best Latinists of his age ; Thomas
Bymer (bom at Appleton Wiske in
1638), WiUiam HI.^s historiographer,
and editor of the 'Foedera'; George
Bidcet (bom at Newsham in Kirkby
Wiske, 1642), the northem antiquary,
author of the ^ Linguarum Vet. Sap-
ient. Thesaurus,' and consecrated
\YorkMre.']
nonjuring Bp. of Thetford in 1693 ; his
brother, JoJui JETio&es, who joined the
Duke of Monmouth, and was one of
the persons for giving shelter to whom
Alice Lisle was ^^cd— Hickes
himself was afterwards taken and
hanged at Glastonburv; WUUaim
PaUiter (bom at Kirkby Wiske, 1644),
Archbp. of Cashel; John Badd^e
(bom at Wakefield, 1650), foonder of
the Badcliffe Library, and of the
Observatory at Oxford; and John^
Ketdewell (bom at Low Fields, in
the parish of Northallerton, 1653),
one of the most learned and excellent
of the nonjurors.
Edmund Gheaat, Jewell's successor
in the see of Salisbury, died 1576,
was bom at North Allerton.
Baces are held here in October,
and continue two days. The course
is immediately S. of the rly. station.
The House of Correction for the
North Biding was removed here from
Thirsk about 1783. Here also is the
register office for the public registra-
tion of all deeds, wills, &c., rSating
to lands within the North Biding.
More interesting than anything at
North Allerton (although there is
little to be seen) is the field of the
BatOe of ihe Standard, 3 m. N. of the
town, a short distance rt. of the great
North road. The rly. traverses some
earthworks, which formed a strong
position. A farm called " StandaxS
Hill," is said, and probably with tmth,
to mark the position of the famous
« Standard." It is generally said that
the battle was fought on Cowton
Moor, and, although the country is
now entirely enclosed, there can be
no doubt that it was then an open
heath. The Cleveland hills and the
high points of Hambleton are seen
rt. Tne Scots were encountered here,
on the first open fighting-ground S. of
the Tees.
The story of the battle is briefly
as follows: — On the accession of
Stephen, David of Scotland took
Q
226 Boute 16.— North AUeii&ii : Battle of the Standard.
up the cause of his niece the Empress
Matilda, and (1136) reached New-
castle with his aim7 at the same time
as Stephen, on his way to meet him,
had advanced to Durham. A treaty
was then signed hetween the kings:
hut David also claimed for his son the
earldom of Northmnherland, in right
of his wife Maud, eldest daughter of
the great Earl Waltheof . It was in
support of this claim, which Stephen
did not fully acknowledge, that David
again stirred in 1137, and in the fol-
lowing year advanced through North-
umbenand and Durham, both of which
counties were savagely plundered, into
Yorkshire. The northern barons, in-
cited greatly by Thurstan, Archbp. of
York, who, very aged and feeble, was
unable himself to advance beyond
Thirsk, assembled in haste, and en-
camped near North Allerton, having
in the midst of their host the '* Stand-
ard"— a tail mast raised on a four-
wheeled platform like the Italian
"Carrocio," and bearing, beneath a
silver crucifix, and a silver pjrx con-
taining the consecrated host, the holy
'banners of St. Peter of York, St. John
of Beverley, and St. Wilfrid of Ripon
— the three great protecting saints
of Yorkshire. Among the English
barons occur the names of Bruce,
Baliol, Ferrars, Lacy, Mowbray, Peve-
rell, Percy, UEspec, and Albemarle.
Bobert de Brus, according to Aelred,
having been from his youth " a friend
and familiar to the King of Scots,"
'sought him before the battle, and
wo^d have persuaded him to a
" peaceable accord " but for the fero-
city of the king's nephew, William
MacDuncan, who insisted that the
battle should go forward. The
English host was addressed from the
platform about the Standard by
Walter I'Espcc, and by Ralph Bishop
of Orkney, commissioned by Archbp.
Thurstan. The Bishop concluded
with an absolution of all who should
fall in the battle ; to which there was
a shout of "Amen I Amen!" "so
that the hills re-echoed/^ and at the
same moment the Scots rushed for-
ward with cries of " Albanigh ! Alba-
nigh ! " The wild men of Galloway,
who began the charge, were broken
and fled after the death of tiieir
leaders ; but meanwhile. Prince Heniy
of Scotland had forced his way beyond
the Standard ; and ihe English would
have fled on Uieir side, had not an old
knight cut off the head of a slain
man, and held it up on his lance,
crying that it was the head of the
king of Scotland. This decided the
battle. The Scots, already dis-
couraged b^ the flight of the Grallowar
men, fled m haste ; and King David
himself was forced to retreats He
retired to Carlisle, his host rallying
again in such numbers as to make
pursuit dangerous. Prince Heniy
escaped, but with difficulty. Only
one English knight, Gilbert de Lacy,
was killed; and the total English
loss was very small. Hie Scots did
not suffer much an the field; but
some thousands were killed in the
northern counties after the flight and
dispersion. Besides Standard Hill
itself, there is a farm about 1 m. S.
of it called Seat Pits — ^from the holes
into which the dead bodies of the
Scots are said to have been thrown.
The field, says John of Hexham, was
known as " Baggamoor ; '* so many
sacks and wallets had been left on it
by the enemy.
[An excursion of great interest to
the archseologist may be made from
North Allerton to the remains of
Mount Grace Priory, about 7 m.
distant. The road passes by Otmoti^«^
ley, a long village near the mouth
of the hollow between the Hamble-
ton and the Cleveland hills. (For
the legendary derivation of "Os-
motherley" see Rte. 15, Roeeberry
Topping,) The ch., much barbaiised,
is long, narrow, and aisleless, wilii
some Norm, portions, and a remark-
able early Dec. chancel arch, the
triple shafts supporting which rest
on bases halfway up iSe wall. Sir
Bouie 16. — Mount Grace Priory.
227
James Stmngeways, of Harlsej
GftBtie, directed by his will, dated
1540, that a S. aisle should be added
to the choir as a burial-place for
himself and wife, and that 402. should
be ei^nded on it. The tithes of
this miportant parish are in the
hands ci four laymen, one of whom is
reddent and a large landowner in
the place. The church demands, if
not complete restoration, consider-
able repair, which the vicar, the
Ber. H. Jones, M.A., is desirous to
see effected. Near the ch. is a com-
modious school built by the present
▼icar. The Quemi Catherine, the
best inn in the Tillage, will afford
tolerable acconmiodation to the pe-
destrian who wishes to explore tnis
neighbourhood. The moors are
covered with heather; and Black
Hambleton, the highest (1289 ft.) of
that range, is conspicuous S.£. The
springs of the Rye rise N. of Douglas
ridge (the southern point of the
develands). Tou may follow the
river S. to Rievaubc (Kte. 18a), a
roogh but veiy pictureisque pilgrim-
age of between 12 and 15 m. from
C^otherley, to be attempted by none
but thorough lovers of neather and
wild scenery.
Mount Otace Priory lies rt. of the
Stockton road, about 1 m. N. of
Osmotherley. (Either going or re-
taming you should walk across the
hill by the Lady-chapel — see post,)
The Prioiy was founded for
Carthusians, — whose " observantias
sanctas et singulares — ^valde mira-
mur," says the charter of foundation,
— ^in the year 1397, by Thomas Hol-
land, Earl of Kent, and nephew of
Richard 11., who had just created him
Duke of Surrey. It was established
under the name of the '^ House of
Mount Grace of Inglebr,'' in honour
of St. fliary and St Nicholas, and
for the ^'good estates" of Richatd
n., his queen, the founder and
his wife. The duke was one of
the persons in whom Richard H.
placed most confidence ; and in 1400,
after the deposition of that king, he
was deprived of his title of Duke of
Surrey. He then joined his uncle,
the Earl of Huntii^on, and other
nobles in a plot to lull the new king,
Henry IV., during a tournament at
Oxford ; but their intention was dis-
covered, and ttie Duke of Surrey was
seized at Cirencester, and beheaded
there, January, 1400-1. A great part
of the work of the new priory was
still unfinished, and the brethren
were in much trouble and perplexity
until Henry VI., circ. 1440, confirmed
the original grant of the manor (Bor-
delby) in which the priory stands,
and of the lands of Hinckley, Whar-
ram, and Carisbrooke, 3 alien priories,
which had been obtained from Rich.
n. by the founder. The buildings
were then completed, and the gross
annual value of Mount Grace, at
the Dissolution, was 3822. In 1412,
Johanna, widow of the founder, ob-
tained the king's licence to remove
her husband's remains from the
Abbey of Cirencester, where they
were buried, and to re-inter them
at Moimt Grace; but his tomb re-
mains to be discovered.
Mount Grace was one of 9 Car-
thusian houses in England, the
earliest of which was Witham in
Somersetshire, founded in 1181 by
Hennr H., who brought the famous
St. Hugh of Lincoln from the Grande
Chartreuse to become its fij:st prior.
The remains of no English Uhar-
trease are so perfect or so interesting
as these of Mount Grace; and the
remarkable difference between the
arrangements here, and those of a
Cistercian or Benedictine monastery,
calls for special attention.
The site of the priory, in meadow
ground close under a wooded hill, is
very sunny and pleasant. One of the
Lascelles family (who became pro-
prietors here soon after the Dissolu-
q2
228
Baute 16. — Mount Grrace Priory^ Lady ChapeL
tion) converted part of the buildings
into a dwelling-house (now a farm) ;
and his initials, with the date 16M,
remain over the door. Here the keys
must be obtained. Within the en-
closing wall are 2 courts — the
smaller of which, S., contained the
guest-hall, and other apartments
allotted to stransers; the larger, N.,
was surrounded by the houses of the
monks. In the smaller court, but
with access from the inner, was the
priorj ch. The farmhouse, with its
outbuildings, may have been the
kitchens (?) and other offices. In
the outer court the remains are scanty,
although the long narrow guest-ludl
may be traced on the W. side. The
houses (14 in number), ranged round
the larger court, were of two stories ;
and eadi has, by the side of the door-
way, a square ** hatch ^ or opening for
the reception of food. (This was the
arrangement in all Carthusian houses :
it may be seen in perfection in that of
Mu-anores near Burgos, which remains
nearly as it was completed about 1480.
—See Street's * Gothic Architecture
in Spain.*) This inner court seems to
have been surrounded by a cloister,
and on the S. side is a lavatory. The
Church (between which and the wall
of the inner court are remains of
apartments — ^the prior's house ?) is
long, narrow, and aisleless. (This
also was a Carthusian rule. No pro-,
cessions were ever made in their
churches. The chancel has disap-
peared, except a portion of the N.
wall. The central tower rests on 4
high, narrow arches, with a very
narrow passage (making a kind of
transept) N. and o. Larger transepts
or chapels open immediately W. of
the tower, lighted N. and S. On the
• N. side of the very short nave is an
opening, by which the monks may
have entered the ch. The tower, whicn
has had good windows with foliated
headings, is now a mere shell. AU
the buUdings seem to have been plain
and massive. The sketcher will find
ma4y excellent points, particularly in
the outer court where a large ash-
tree on the chancel wall adds veiy
picturesquely to the effect. It is
much to be desired that these most
interesting (and in England unique)
remains should be thorouffhly ex-
amined and planned. They nave not
as yet received the attention they
merit and wiU reward.
Many fine trees, elms, oaks,' and
ashes— encircle the priory walls and
the ancient fishponds below them.
At the back, near St. John's well—
a copious spring, protected by the
monks by a picturesque aich,— &
path through the wood leads to the
top of the hill, where is a ruined
**Lady Chapel,'' built in 1515. It
was built stronffly of squared stone,
and had a priests cell on the N. side.
There is little architectural detail;
and indeed the plainness of the work
here and at the priory deserves notice
as in accordance with Carthusian
severity. The chapel, on its promi-
nent hill, must have proved a " Dame
de bon Secours " to many a wayfarer
whom it guided through the woods.
So late as 1614 there was such a
public resort of ** divers and sundrie
superstitious and papistlie affected
persons'* to this ** chapel or hermit-
age,** especially on **tne Lady's and
otiier samts* eves,** as to call for legal
interference (see the "writ" against
such persons, who " came secretly and
closely and for the most part in the
night-time,** printed in * Notes and
Queries,* Dec. 1861. It is signed by
Tobias Matthew, Abp. of York, and
by John Thomborougn, Bp. of Bristol
and Dean of York).
From this point the view over the
great plain, with the hills of West
Yorkshire in the distance, is wonder-
ful in clear weather. (In most of its
features it resembles that from White-
stone Cliff— «ee ante.) A path leads
down the hill to Osmotherley.]
[(On the Stockton rly., between
Bouie 16.— Fori- to DarUngton—Cawtoik— Croft. 229
North Allerton and Picton Junction, | scnlptnre in the chancel, contain«
there are stations at Brampton (where ' Nonn. portions, and the aHar-tomb
is a large linen (drill) factory) and
Wdbmy. There is nothing, howerer,
to call for special notice. For the
line beyond Picton, see Bte. 15).]
Learing North Allerton, and keep-
ing the river Wiske I. (but not seen),
the rly. passes 1. HtJJUm BanviUe
HdU (J. R. W. Hildyard, Esq.), and
crossing the Wiske at Birkby (the
modern ch. is seen rt), reaches
37} m. CovrUm Stat Mnch of the
groond here passed mnst have been
within the field of the Battle of the
Standard (see ante) ; L is Pepoer HaU
(H. Wood, Esq.). The "Vale of
Mowbray ^ is here comparatively level,
rich, and wooded; and from Cheat
SmeaUm, 2 m. E. of Ck)wton Stat,
fine prospects are commanded. At
39 m. DdUon Janet Stat, a branch
line passes S.W. to Richmond (see
Bte. 25), the hills above which are
seen 1., while the Cleveland hiUs rise
in the distance rt. IHalnaby Hatty
3 m. N. of the Dalton Stat, on the
road to Richmond, was the seat of
Sir John Milbanke, bnt was sold
by tliat family some years since,
and is now the property of W. H.
Wilson-Todd, Esq. Here Byron spent
his honeymoon, having been married
at Seaham, another seat of his father-
in-law, Sir Ralph Milbanke, in the
eonnty of Durham.]
The Tees is crossed at
41} m. Croft Stat, by a viaduct of
4 large arches, commandizig fine views
np and down the river. Croft (Jim :
CJroft Spa Hotel) lies on both sides
of the Tees, and is resorted to for
the sake oi its snlphm^tted waters,
resembling those of Harrogate. The
bnilding containing the pmnp-room
and baths is faced with a verandah,
making a pleasant promenade. The
cIl, chiefly Dec., with some good
(without effigy^ of Richard Clervanx
— ^^ cousin, in the third degree, to the
kings of the hoose of York" — died
1490.
On Croft Bridge each new Bp. of
Durham was formerly presented with
a falchion, said to be that witili which
the Worm of Sockbnm was slain
(see Handbook of Durhttm)^ but the
custom ceased on the abolition of the
Palatinate.
From Croft excursions may be
made bv rail to Barnard Castle and
Rokebv'(8ee Bte. 26), aud to Rich-
mond '(Rte. 25) ; 1 m. to the W. is
davereux Ckutle (the Misses Chay-
tor).
The countv of Durham is entered
beyond the 1?ees, between which and
Darlington (at Oxenhall — see Hand-
hook of Durham for a longer notice)
are the Hell KetHei—c&yitXes in the
rock, probably formed by running
water, and now filled with standing
water strongly sulphuretted. The 3
largest are about 120 ft. in diam.,
and from 19 to 14 ft deep. The
Skeme runs near, toward the Toes,
who speaks thus in Drayton's verse : —
'* The Skcm, a dainty nymph, saluting l>ar-
lingtou,
Gomn m to give me ayd, and being prond
and nnke,
She cfaanc'd to looke Mlde, and epieth near
herbanke
(That from their loathsome brimms do
breathe a Bulphurona sweat)
HeU-keUles rightly cald. that with the veiy
sight,
This water-nymph, my Skene, is put In
sttch affright.
That with unosual speed she on her oonmo
doth haste.
And rashly runnes berselfe into my widened
waste.— i'o<yoI6i<m.''
For
44^ m. DarlinffUmf see Handbook
of Durham. The y&ry fine ch. of St,
CkiihbeH, Norm, and fi. Eng., is the
principal sight here.
230
Boute 17. — Stockton to Salibum.
ROUTE 17.
STOCKTON TO SALTBURN, BY MID-
DLESBROUGH AND REDCAR.
(Branch of SiockUm and Darlington
iN.E.) Bly.)
(For the line from Northallerton
to Picton Junct. see Bte. 16; from
Picton to Stockton, Bte. 15. For
Stockton see Handbook of Durliam.)
The distance between Stockton and
Saltbum takes from } to } hr. Ten
trains daily.
Stockton Eace-conrse (where the
races, in August, are of some import-
ance) is pa^ed rt. on the Yorkshire
side of the Tees — which accompanies
the train 1. as far as Middlesbrough,
whilst the Cleveland hills and Bosc-
beny Topping are seen rt.
Middlesbrough Station was built
at a cost of 100,0002.
Inn$: Bojal H. ; Talbot.
While other towns and cities boast
of their great age, Middlesbrough is
proud of its you&, and still preserves
the first house which stood on the
spot — ^the onl^ one in 1820. Hiis
" youngest child of £ngland*s enter-
piise " as Mr. Qhidstone tenned it,
came into existence about 1820 ; now
it contains within the limits of the
Municipal Borough 55,288. Its streets
measure in the aggregate 50 miles.
The Tees, on whose rt. bank it stands,
lately a shallow tidal stream, has
been dredged into a haven accessible
for deep-sea ships, and Docks have
been opened from it of 12 acres
area. The first great impulse was
given in 1829, when six very clever
Quakers, Mr. Pease of Darlington at
tieir head, known as " the Owners,**
bought 500 acres of land on the rt
bank of the Tees for 20s. an acre!
On this ground the town now stands.
In 1830 they lengthened the Dar-
lington Bailway from Stockton across
the Tees to certain Staiths, erected
by them for the shipping of their
coal, and thus Middlesbrough be-
came a flourishing Coal port, export-
ing to the extent of a million tons a
year. Owing to the competiticm of
rival ports, this trade began to fall off,
and forthwith the founders substituted
for it the manufacture of Iron. It is
to this that Middlesbrough owes its
renown and prosperity. Making slow
progress at first, it assumed gigantic
proportions after 1831, when iron ore,
previously imported in great part
irom a distance, was found or dis-
covered by John Vaughan,a practical
iron-worker, close at hand, in the
very Cleveland hills rising at the back
of the town. The existence of coal
and iron in abundance, close together
and close at hand, gave the greatest
impetus to the Worlw established here
by Vaughan in conjunction with H.
W. Bolckow, a German of great prac-
tical knowledge. Furnaces rose up
like mushrooms — 10, 20, 50 — ^increas-
ing down to the present time, when
Middlesbrough; ^possesses no fewer
than 100 Blast FumaoeSy some of
them the largest in the world, 80 to
90 ft. high, of the most scientific con-
struction, worked with hot air, and
capable of "putting out" 500 tons a
week ; the pi^uction of Pignron in
1880 was estimated at 1,500,000 tons.
BoiUe 17. — Middlesbrough.
231
With all this,Middlesl)roiigh has not |
been destined to a career of unvarying
prosperity. A serions objection was
made to tiie iron produced here, owing
to thedereland ore being infested with
phosphorus, so as to prevent its con-
version into steel ; hence a falling off
in the demand and another pericd of
depression. Once more the town was
rescued from this by the enterprise
of its citizens. Messis. Bolckow and
Vaughan, who, by adopting the Gil-
christ process, have removed the phos-
phorus, and in the vast works which
they have erected at Eston the iron is
now converted into steel of the best
qualiirr, and on a scale of imequalled
magmtude. No fewer than 6000 men
are employed in the furnaces and
forges at Middlesbrough, besides
many thousands in quarrying iron and
lim^tone.
The works of Messrs. Bolckow and
Vaughan, said to be the largest steel
works in the world, are a wonderful
sight, but are to be seen only by
special permission. The "Bessemer
Converters," huge iron cylinders from
which the red-hot steel is poured out,
with coruscations more brilliant than
fireworks ; the huge shears for cutting
iron, the rolling-mills and steam-
hammers, are all causes of wonder and
admiration. The labour is ceaseless
day and night, being lighted at night
by electric light. Messrs. Hopkins,
(relkes, and Wilson, have also very
extensive iron- works.
Subject as this colossal industry
has been to frequent fluctuations, one
cannot but fear some future interrup-
tion to snch an unequalled rise and
prosperity. Still no one can refuse
admiration atsuch imdaunted struggles
with difficulties.
Among the great works executed
here must be numbered the attempt to
convert the mouth of the Tees into a
Harbour of Befuge, by throwing out
two Breakwaters, the S. Gare,
12,800 ft. long, the N. Gare, 7000 ft.
long. They are constructed chiefly
of slag from the iron furnaces,
which the ironmasters are only too
glad to be rid of by payment. These
deposits contribute to fix the shifting
sands and to deepen the scour at the
river mouth.
At the various works are produced
— plates for boilers and shipbuilding,
wrought nails, rails, tires, railway
fastenings, and machinery. At th&
Newport wire-mills, telegraph, fenc-
ing, and other kinds of wire are made.
There are also tJUp-yards, where iron
vessels up to 3000 tons are buUt.
Brick-yards and chemical works con-
tribute their odours ; and Messrs. Bolc-
kow and Vaughan have sunk salt-pits
here, since a deposit of salt, 100 ft.
thick, underlies the town.
Besides the parish Ch. (St. Hilda's),
built in 1839, there are 8 or 4 others,
and there are various chapels. Near
the rly. stat. is the Ironmasters' and
General Exchange, built 1868, at a
cost of 35,000L A Theatre, Free
Library, Concert Halls, and other
buildings have also arisen, and the
number of public edifices increases
yearly. The Cleveland Literary and
Fhilosophical Society, with its Li-
brary, Museum, Reading-room, and
classes, in Corporation Street, afford
interesting evidence of educational
progress. The Cemetery, well laid
out, is on the Linthorpe Boad; and
the Albert Park, an enclosure of 72
acres, was given to the town in 1866
by H. W. F. Bolckow, Esq. It is
about 1 m. from Middlesbrough, on
the same road, and has been pictur-
esquely laid out and planted.
Considering the small size of the
houses, the rentals varying from Ss.
to 6«. per week, the streets are remark-
ably broad and well paved. The
editor of this edition visited several
of the workmen's houses in 1880, and
found them usually clean inside and
comfortably furnished. Those in the
wide, main streets, at 6s. per week,
232
Route 17. — M%ddle»br<nigh — Eedcar,
have 4 rooms and a back yard, with
washhouse to each. The' men are
more intelligent and better conducted
than superficial observers of their
smoke-grimed faces and rongh exterior
imagine.
BaCtoays. Middlesbrough to Guis
borough (Kte. 15a), with stations at
Ormsby, Nunthorpe, and Pinching-
thorpe. This rly. brings much iron-
stone from the quarries near Guis-
borough.
To Whitby by Ingl^ Junct.
To Darlington by Predon Junct
About 1 m. rt. of Orm$by Stat, is
Jtfarton, the birthplace of Captain
Ooofc—bom here October 27, 1728.
The field in which his father's cottage
stood is called " CooVs Garth."* In
the church (which was restored 1846)
a tablet to the memory of Cook has
been placed by the parishioners ; and
a school, as an additional memorial,
was founded in 1848. The ch. is
Norm, (nave) and E. Eng. (chancel).
The modem stained glass is hjWaUes,
The ch.-yd. contains the tombstone
of Mary Walker, who taught young
Cook to read. His father was a day-
labourer in her service. (See Hartley
Coleridge's 'Northern Worthies' for
an excellent Life of Cook.)
Marion HaUf a large mansion of
red brick, with a lofty cupola, was
completed in 1869, as a residence for
the kte H. W. F. Bolckow, Esq. It
commands veiy fine views.
Gunnergate Mansion was built by
another ironmaster, Mr. Vaughan.
TThe fitting and painting of the bil-
liard-room alone cost 50,0002.
Opposite Middlesbrough, on the
Durham side of the Tees, is Port
Clarence — equally a place of smoke
and iron. Ferry Steamer acroea Tees.
Passing Cleveland Port (an older
" port " than Middlesbrough, and like
that, bustling with the iron trade of
the district — ^Messrs. Bolckow and
Vaughan have 9 blast furnaces here),
we reach
Eston Stat.; where a branch line
conveys ironstone rt from the Edon
S tarries at the foot of Eston Nab.
ere are Messrs. Bolckow and
Vaughan's great Iron Fumaees ami
Steel Worka, see above. It had long
been known that the hills of Cle%*e-
land contained thick beds of ironstone,
which had not been neglected during
the Boman period, and which had
certainly been worked by the monks
of Rievaulx and of Wnitbr. But
although many attempts at bringing
Cleveland iron into notice had been
made during the present century,
they were unsuccessful until 1850,
when Mr. Vaughan made the dis-
coveiy himself of -the vast seam of
ironstone lying in the N.W. side of
Eston Moor. He convinced himself
of its excellence ; made arrangements
for working it; and the quarry has
since supplied the greater part ol the
iron manufactured at the Middles-
brough works of Messrs. Bolckow
and Vaughan. (For Eston Nab itself,
which is best visited from Bedcar, see
pogt,)
The ironstone district in this part
of Yorkshire extends from Eston and
Normanby, past Upleatham, to Guis-
borough, Skelton, Brotton, and Skin-
ningrove. The principal mining-field
occupies a tract of about BO square
miles in extent.
Cargo Fleet Stat.
SouMank Siat
Bedear Stat. (lime : Red Lion ;
Boyal, facing the sea; Coatham;
Clarendon; Swan: lodgings are nu-
merous and reasonable.) Since 1842
Bedcar has become a watoring-place
of some importance. The village con-
Boute 17. — East Chatham — KirMeatham.
283
sists of one long street ; and has but
one reoommendation, — the long
stretch of firm and beautiful 8an£
from Huntcliff Bocks to the Tees
month, and 1 m. broad at low water,
along which you may gallop for 10 m.
wtihont drawing bridle. The Durham
coast extends opposite; and the mouth
of the Tees on one side, and the hills
toward Saltbum on the other, form
the boandaries. The low cliffs at the
foot of which the sands spread them-
selTes are of drifted claj or pebbles,
resting on lias.
The whole of this coast is danger-
ous, and is ill provided with accessible
havens. It was long since proposed
(bat it still remains a proposal) that
a harbour of refuge should be formed
at Bedcar hj constructing piers of
masonry upon two reefe of rock called
the Scars, which admit of passage
between them at all times of tide.
Bedcar has 2 Piers and an Esplanade
formed. There are 2 lifeboats at
Bedcar.
At Edtl Coaiham (} m. E. of Bed-
car) is a modem Gothic ch. (built
18M) of which the exterior is far
better than the interior. The pulpit,
font, and reredos, of Caen stone,
were designed by Scott, and have
been elaborately decorated in gold
and colour.
The CtmvaleiemU Home was founded
in ISeO, enlarged 1869, and the
chapel added in 1871. This is very
good, of E. Eng. character, with an
anidal chancel and many stained-
glasB windows by Waues, The
Home accommodates 100 patients,
who are received from all parts of
England on a subscriber's order.
Each convalescent may remain a
month, or longer, if desirable. The
Otaimmar Seiiool, a Gothic building,
was opened in 1869. The school
itself was founded at Kirkleatham
hy Sir Wm. Tuner in 1700, was
reconstituted in 1855, and removed
to Coatham. The church at Coatham
is passed in the walk (across the
level) to
Kirkleatham (8 m. from Bedcar),
where the Ho9pital is one of the lions
of the Bedcar neighbourhood. This
was founded in 1676 by " Sir William
Turner, Kt., Lord Mayor of London,**
long a woollen-draper in St. Paul's
Churchyard. He lent Charles H.
32002. at several times, but was repaid
only lOOOZ. One of his last trans-
actions was a loan of 5002. to ** King
William upon a tally." Sir Wil-
liam's ancestors had possessed Kirk-
leatham Hall since 1 623. His hospital
was founded for 10 old men, 10 old
women, 10 boys, and 10 girls. The
revenue exceeds 15002. yearly. The
building (of brick, without archi-
tectural character) forms 3 sides of
a square, the fourth being closed by
an iron grille. In the centre is a
figure of Justice. The Chapdj added
in 1742, contains a very fine window
of stained glass, with figures of Sir
William Turner and his brother John,
" Sergeant-at-law,** with tiie " Adora-
tion of the Magi** in front The
glass is superb in colour ; but nothing
is known of its history beyond a tra-
dition that it was the work of " two
Italians;** and that Chomley Turner
was BO gratified with their perform-
ance that he gave them lOOZ. in
addition to the 5002. for which it
was purchased. Two gilt chairs in the
chapel were presents to the hospital
from Charles II. There is a Museum,
the most remarkable object in which
is a carving of St. George and the
Dragon cut from a piece of Turkish
boxwood— date, later end of 15th
cent.; size, 13 in. by 7. In former
days of betting it is said that Sir
H. V. Tempest wagered 1000 guineas
that this carving was not from a
single piece of wood. His bet was
taken by Sir Chas. Turner, and " St
George'^ was tested with boiling
234 Boute 17. — KtrklecUham--Saltburn^''th&'8ea.
water and yinegar, but came out
scathless. In the Ldbrary (consisting
of about 2300 vols.) are some good
bo6ks — ^mainlj divinity and history
of the end of the 17th and beginning
of the 18th cents. There is a copy of
"Walton's * Polyglot ' which belonged
to Cromwell, and near it one of
Castell's Lexicon with the autograph
of "Ri. Bentley." The merchant's
books of Sir W. Turner are also pre-
served here.
KirTdeatham Church (built about
1763 by one Bobert Comey, a native
of Kirkleatham, in much better style
and with far greater honesty of con-
struction than was exhibited at that
day by men of greater professional
eminence) contains a statue of Sergt.
John Turner, by Scheefnuiker^ and a
full-length br€U8 of Bob. Coulthurst,
d. 1631 — a very fine example of
that date. Towards the £. end
is a circular mausoleum, erected in
1740 "to the memory of M. W.
Turner, Esq., the best of sons," as
an inscription roimd it testifies. A
very beautiful silver dish of the
17th cent., richly decorated — Aow
used as the paten — ^was thrown up
by the sea about 100 years since,
within the privilege of the lord of the
manor. KirJdeaJtham HaU, refronted
and enlarged by Carr of York, who
died in 1807, with well -wooded
grounds, and commanding good views,
has passed from the Tmners, and is
now the property of A. H. Tumer-
Newcomen, Esq.
The walk or drive may be con-
tinued to Eston Nab (about 3 m.
farther), the view from which is
superb. In front, as the hill is ap-
proached, are the woods of WtUon
CagOs (Sir Chas. Hugh Lowther,
Bart.), a modem house, built from
designs of Sir Bobert Smirke on the
ruins of a castle which belonged to the
Buhners. The village has been en-
tirely rebuilt of late years. The last of
the Buhners of Wilton was Sir John,
who suffered at Tyburn for his share in
the Pilgrimage of Grace ; and whose
second wife was the " Lady Buhner "
who was burnt at Smithfield on the
same occasion, and whose fate has
been specially dwelt on by Froude
(H. E., vol. iii.). Wilton Chapd
retains some Nonn. features, and the
effigies of a Buhner and his wife,
temp. Edward L Eston Nah ("' mLh"*
is the name given throughout N.K
Yorkshire to &e scarped termination
of a hill), 800 ft. high, commands a
very fine view W. and N. The
mouth and estuary of the Tees, and
the rich country toward the hills of
Richmond, lie mapped out below the
spectator. There are many tumnh
on the hiU, and on Bamaby Moor
(its southern end) is a semicircular
Roman encampment. A Boman road
is said to have passed in this direction
from York across the Hambleton
hills.
The ironstone quarrieit already
noticed, are on the N.W. face of the
hill.
Leaving Bedcar, the rly. skirts the
estuary, passing 1.
Marske StAt The Hall, buUt by Sir
William Pennyman, temp. Charles I.,
is now the property of the Earl of
24etland. The old church, useful as a
landmark, is dedicated to St. Germain.
The ch. stands on the cliff, and is
now used only for burials. St.
Mark's Church was built in 1867,
chiefly at the cost of Lord Zetland.
The architecture is not English, and
the ch. might have been imported
from Normandy. The E. window
was given by the tenantry of Lord
Zetland, as a memorial of the Count-
ess. There are ironstone quarries in
the face of the hill rt. We soon
reach
SaJibwrn-hy'the'SeaSiAi, (Hotels:
the Zetland, large and possessing
every modem accommodation. There
is a reading-room, and a tabU-dlt^
Bmfe 17.— Sal^m-hy'the'Sea—SkeUon Castle. 235
dnring the season. Board and resi-
dence in public rooms 10«. 6d, a day,
besides attendance Is. 6d. Arrange-
ments made for families. To secure
rooms it is desirable to write some
days beforehand. The Alexandra
Hotel, on the cliff, is also very good.
The Queen's, near stat) Saltbum
stands at the mouth of 2 wooded
glens, each of which sends its stream-
let to the sea. The inland scenery
is pleasant and picturesque ; the coast
between Saltbum and Whitby is
accessible, and is very fine (See Rte.
14); and the quiet and excellent
hotel accommodation render Saltbum
by no means the least pleasant of
Yorkshire watering-places. There is
a firm sandy beach, with good bathing ;
and a Pier, built in 1867, extends
about 500 yards into the sea, and
is a pleasant promenade. Steamers
touch here almost daily from Scar-
borough, Whitby, Hartlepool, and
Middlesbrough, and afford the means
of easy water excursions. A hoist,
worked by hydraulic power, and
nearly 120 ft high, may be used for
ascending or descending to the sands,
and is a great boon to invalids. It
leads on to the pier. The cliffs here
are fine. Sutdiffe (about 350 ft.)
is reached by a footpath passing the
coastguard houses ; and Bochliffe
(550 ft), on the rt., should also oe
visited.
Advantage has been taken of the
steep sides of the glen, which opens
close under the terrace of the Zet-
land Hotel, to form very picturesque
wDa, laid out with shrabs and
flowers, and with seats at the best
points. On the opposite bank of the
stream is a newly-built "chateau"
(Rashwood Hall), with peaked roofs
and tourelles, belonging to Mr. BeU
of Newcastle, one of the great iron-
masters of the district. The glen
itself is well wooded, and is crossed
near the sea by a light iron-girder
bridge, 140 ft high and about 800
it long, connecting Saltbum with
Brotton. There is also, much higher
up, a lofty viaduct, raised by the
N.E. Rly. Company (Saltbum to
Whitby line), which spans the glen,
and is 790 ft. long, with a height of
150. You may pass up the glen
(beyond the trimly-kept walks) as
far as
SkeUon Castle (John Thomas
Wharton, Esq.), 2 m. from Saltbum.
Skelton is now a very indifferent
modem house, but includes a portion
of the ancient castle, the "caput
baronife" — the head of the great
barony of Brace. It was granted,
soon after the Conquest, with 43 lord-
ships in the E. and W. Hidings, and
51 in the N., to Bobert de Brus (who
was probably one of the Conqueror*s
followers actively concerned in the
reduction of Yorkshire), and the
Braces continued lords of Skelton
for many generations. Peter de
Bras, one of the confederate barons
at Bunnymead, granted certain lands
at Leconfield to Henry Percy, who
married his sister, " on condition that
every Christmas-day he and his heirs
should come to Skelton Castle, and
lead the lady by the arm from her
chamber to the chapel,*' — a curious
and perhaps unique tenure. From the
Braces, Skelton passed (551Ji Hen.
in.) to the Fauconbergs, one of
whom married the Brace heiress.
It subsequently became the lordship
of Nevilles and Conyers, but after i^e
death of the last Lord Conyers,
temp. Eliz., the husbands of his 8
daughters and coheiresses quarrelled,
and "every one, for despite, mined
that part of the castle whereof he
was in possession." In the last cent,
it was the property of John HaU
Stevenson, author of 'Crazy Tales,'
and more noteworthy as the " Euge-
nius" of Sterne, who often visited
him here. " Here it was that Steme
bribed a boy to tie the weathercock
with its point to the W., hoping
thereby to lure the host from his
chamber; for Eugenius would never
leave his bed while the wind blew
from the E., even though good com-
236
Route IS.— Thmk to Malton.
pany longed for his presence." Hall
was the chief member of a not very
edifying society, called the " Demo-
niacs." The ch. of Skelton is mo-
dem and uninteresting (rebuilt 1785).
On the hill behind Skelton are
very large ironstone quarries. Nearly
opposite, and on the road between
Guisboro^h and Saltbum, is Up-
lealham Hall (Earl of Zetland), with
ffood gardens, laid out in Italian
fashion, and line trees in the park.
There is a modem ch. of Norm,
character The tower, and some
part of the old church, with the font
and some curious monumental relics,
still remain between the village and
the Holebeck. The country between
Upleatham and Guisborough is richly
wooded and pleasant.
The second glen (that farthest from
Saltbum) has no walk through it, but
its picturesque scenery will repay a
scramble, and the sketcher will find
no lack of subjects. It is a peculiarity
of these wooded valleys that they are
scarcely seen until you are standing
on the very edge of the descent, and
that you can form no idea of their
beauty until you are actually in them.
At BrotUm, 2} m. S.E. of the
Saltbum Stat., are many ironstone
quarries. There is a very wide and
beautiful view from tiie ch.-yd.
The ch. itself dates from 1778, and
has a good modem stained E. window
by Powell and CJo.
(For the coast between Saltbom
and Whitby, see Kte. 14). Guis-
borough (6 mX and Boseberry Top-
ping (3 m. fartner), are within a day's
excursion. (For both see Rte. 15).
A pedestrian may walk from Guis-
borough across the hills to Kildale
(Rtes. 15 and 15a), and thus find
himself within readi of the grand
mountain and moorland scenery of
Cleveland. Kichmond (Bte. 25), and
9ven Barnard Castle and Bokeby
(Bte. 26), may be visited by rk.
during the long summer days. ' (Far
Whitby, see Bte. 14.)
BOUTE 18.
THIRSK TO MALTON BT COXWOLD,
BYLAND ABBEY. AND GILUN&
N.E. my. S traiiM dfULy in 1} It.
From Thirsk to Pilmoor Junctioii
the main line is followed (see Bte.
16).
At Pilmoor this branch rly. tuns
1., skirting the Hambleton hUls, and
following the lone valley (the lower
part of Byedale\ which opens between
them and the Uowardian hills. The
scenery is fine, and the line through-
out interesting.
Passing rt. (beyond Pibnoor) ^lu-
ihioaite, where is a small ntalion at
which trains stop when required, and
where the ch. has Norm, portal and
chancel arch, we reatoh
12 m. CoxwM Stat Of this very
pretty village Lawrenee Sterne was
the vicar Tholding it with that of
Sutton-on-Uie-Forast, which Abp.
Blackbume gave him in 1738) from
1760 till his death. Here he wrote
the latter part of * Tristram Shandr.'
and ' The Sentimental Journey.* *'' I
Boute 18^ — Coxwold — Byland Abbey,
237
am," he sayg, wriiing toward the end
of his life, when, after foreign wan-
derings and London gaieties, he retired
quietly to Coxwold, and found (or
tried to find) some rest and pleasure
there — ^as happy as a prince at
Coxwold, and I wish you could see
in how princely a manner I live
— 'tis a land of plenty. I sit down
alone to venison, fish, and wild fowl,
or a couple of fowls or ducks ; with
cords, stoiwberries and cream, and
all the simple plenty which a rich
valley (under Hamhleton hills) can
produce. ... I have a hundred hens
and chickens ahout my yard, and
not a parishioner catches a hare or a
rahbit, or a trout, but he brings it as
an offering to me."
Coxteold Church has a fine Ferp.
W. tower (octagonal) with an open
parapet and gurgoyles resembling
those of Thir^. (The Priory and
Convent of Newburgh held the rec-
torial tithes of both parishes — Whence
the similarity in the architecture of
the churches.) The chancel was
rebuilt in 1777 ; but some fine monu-
ments of the Bdasyse family (Earls
of Fauconberg) were replaced in it.
The earliest (1603) is an altar-tomb
with effigies of Sir William Belasyse
and his wife; on the base is the
inscription —
'*TbomaK Browne did carve this tome
Himself alone, of Heaeelwood stone."
There are others for Thos. Earl
Fauconberg (the son-in-law of Crom-
well) and lus son, and for Thos.
Viscoont Fauconberg. Beyond the
eh. rt. is Shandy HaU, the residence
of Sterne, now occupied as 3 cottages.
It had become dilapidated, and was
pot into its present state of repair
by Sir G. Wombwell. The tenant
who succeeded Sterne is said to have
fonnd a bundle of his MSS. in a
ckiset, and to have used them as
lin'mg for the paper of a room.
C* Shandy,"* in the dialect of this
part of Yorkshire, is said to mean
" crackbrained "— " crazy.")
John Webster, author of the * Dis-
covery of supposed Witchcraft,' was
bom in 1610 at Thornton on the
Hill, in Coxwold. He tells a story
of an apparition which discovered
a murder at Baskelf e, a neighbouring
parish.
Close to Coxwold Stat., rt., is New-
burgh Park (Sir G. 0. Wombwell,
Bart., who inherited it from his
grandmother, 2nd daughter of the
hat Lord Fauconberg). The house,
which was long the residence of the
Lords Fauconberg, occupies the site
of an Augustinian Priory, founded
by Boger de Mowbray in 1145.
(Wm. of Newburg — ^whose history
ends in 1197 — ^was a canon hereO
The site was given by Henry YIII.
to Ant. Belasyse, Ardn. of Colchester,
and one of the Commissioners for
inquiry into the state of monastic
houses, whose descendant was created
Lord Fauconberg by Chas. I. His
descendant, the 7th and last Baron
Fauconberg, died a priest of the B. C.
Church at the beffinnine of this cent.
Some portions of the Jrriory are in-
corporated in the present house.
Many Cromwellian r^cs, including
his sword, watch, and saddle, are
preserved here ; and there is a tradi-
tion that the remains of Cromwell
himself, after then: disgraceful exhi-
bition at Tyburn, were brought here
secretly, and walled up in solid
masonry. His daughter Mary was
the 2nd wife of the 2nd Lord Fau-
conberg. Their portraits are pre-
served here with others of the
Fauconbergs; among them one by
Vandyck, and anoSier by Gains-
borough. In the park are some fine
oaks.
[Not quite 2 m. N.E. of Coxwold
are the ruins of Byland jUibey, only
less interesting than those of Foun-
tains or of Kievaulx. About the
238
Boute 18. — Bytand Abbey.
year 1137, the Abbot of Calder and
his brethren, who had left Fumess,
on the Lancashire coast, to esta-
blish a new monastery, were dis-
tnrbed during an invasion of the
country by David King of Scotland.
They returned to Fumess ; but were
repulsed by the abbot, and then, bear-
ing witii them their little property
in a waggon drawn by eight oxen,
they set out to seek counsel of Abp.
Thurstan at York. As they passed
through Thirsk, they were seen by
the steward of the Lady Gundreda,
widow of Nigel de Albini, and
mother of Soger de Mowbray, then a
youth in ward to King Stephen. He
brought them to his lady's castle;
and she, struck with their conver-
sation and bearing, kept them with
her for some time, and then placed
them at Hode (near Gormire,
mider the Hambleton HUls — see
Bte. 16), where her uncle was lead-
ing the life of a hermit. The monks
remained at Hode till they were
removed to Old Byland in 1143, by
her son Boger, who was also the
founder of the house of Newbiu-gh,
and, it is said, of 33 other religious
houses. But at Old Byland (on the
moor, above the 1. bank of the Eye,
nearly opposite Eievaulx) they
were disturbed by the bells of their
brethren of Bievaulx ; and they first
removed to Stocking, and finally
(1177) to the side of the existing
Amongst the benefactors of Byland
figures Sir John Colvile of the "Dole —
a narrow valley and hamlet among
the moors, about 2 m. N. of Old By-
land. Many of the Colviles were
buried in the ch. of the monastery.
They always retained their distinctive
title ; and that '^ most furious knight
and valorous enemy, Sir John Colevile
of the Dale," who was concerned in the
rising of the Percys and Abp. Scrope,
and who, according to Shakspeare,
"yielded himself" to Sir John Fal-
stafif, was of this race. — ^* Colevile is
your name ; a knight is yom* degreje ;
and your place, Sie Dale: Colevile
shall' still be your name; a traitor
your degree; and the dungeon your
place, — a place deep enough ; so shall
you stiU be Coleville of the Dale."
« Henry IV., Ft. H.,' act iv. sc. 3.
In 1322 the Scots made a foray
into Yorkshu-e, and (Oct. 14) took
Alan Earl of Richmond {Hrisoner
among the hills N. of Byland. £dw.
n., who was either here or at Bie-
vaulx, escaped in all haste to York.
(See Ete. 18a, Bievaulx.)
The situation of Byland, on open
ground under a spur of the Hamble-
tons, is by no means so picturesque
as that of Bievaulx, or of Fountains,
although there is much wild and
pleasant country close at hand. The
chief mass of ruin is that of the
Church, which is Trans.-Norm. and
E.E. The composition of the west
front is fine. Above a trefoiled por-
tal arch are 3 pointed windows, with
a blank arcade between. Over them
is a portion of an enormous circular
window. This is E.E. The east
front has 3 circ.-headed windows,
with clustered shafts between, and
is more of transitional character; as
is a lofty fragment of the N. tran-
sept. Tnere was also a circ.-headed
window at tiie end of each aisle.
The ch. is of great length, 328 ft.
6 in., and its general effect (owing
to this extent, and to the breadth of
the square-ended chancel — a York-
shire characteristic) must have been
very fine and unusual. As in Abp.
Boger's ch. at Bipon (see Bte. 22),
there was a triforium throughout
nave, transept, and choir. There is
none at Foimtains or Kirkstall ; and
it is not usually found in Cistercian
churches. The abbot's house was
inhabited within memory, but is now
represented by a heap of rubbish at
the S.E. angle of the general ruin.
The monastic buildings show little
Boute 18. — Amphforihr—OiUing.
289
more than fomidatioiifi. The ruins
are protected from injury, but have
never yet received the thorough ex-
amination which has been b^towed
on Fountains or on Jervaulx. At
the Dissolution the site was granted
to the Pickeriiigs, and passed from
them to the Stapyltons, who still
possess it.
At Seawton, 3 m. N. of Byland, is
a small Norm, ch., with hagioscopes
on each side of the chancel arch. In
the bellcot is a bell with a founder's
shield, and inscription not easily de-
cipherable. It is of the 14th cent.
(From Byland you may walk
through pleasant Lmes to the stat.
or vilhige of Ampleforth, about 4 m.
On this road there is a striking view
of the abbey ruins at the end of the
Tale. Or you may walk across the
moois (about 7 m.) to Bievaulx, and
thence (3 m.) to Hehnsley. The road
winds up to the moor through wooded
hollows. There is a fine view across
the great central plain, S.W., and a
very beautiful one of Bievaulx as you
approach it. The moorland walk is
long, but pleasant when the heather
is in flower.)]
The next station is
14} m. Ampleforth, about 1 m.
from the long, straggling village,
which is seen 1. The &iurck has
Norm, portions, but was almost en-
tirely rebuilt in 1868. Built into the
wall of the tower is the remarkable
monument of an unknown knight
(temp. Edw. 11.), whose head rests on
the bosom of his wife. The position
is probably unique, and the effigy well
deserves notice. It is possibly that
of a knight who fell in the battie
with the Scots near Byland, in
1322. On Ampleforth moors (the
l^st and lowest spur of the Ham-
bletoDs), at the back of the vil-
lage, are many tumuli and earth-
works—the largest. Called Stud/old
Ming, is about 1 m. N., within a
wide outer embankment, enclosing a
pentagonal (?) camp, with a steep
agger. W. of the camp a deep
ditch, called the Double Dykee,
extends for some distance.
1. of the rly., between Ampleforth
and the next stat., is a large Soman
Catholic College, founded in 1802,
by members of the society of Dieu
Louard, near Pont-iL-Mousson, in
Lorraine, who, at the Bevolution,
were driven from their old home.
The situation is very agreeable ; and
the existing buildings (the ch. built
1857, the wing caoled the **New
College" in 1861) are rather pic-
turesque. The college is a favourite
place of education with the Bomanist
families of the north. It contains a
small museum, in which are preserved
some relics from the tumuli of the
adjoining moors. A great landslip
occurred (Nov. 1872) near this place,
when some acres of clay glided off
the face of the oolite beds on which
they rested, destroying the road
between Ampleforth and Oswald
Kirk. At
17 m. GiUing Junct. Stat., a Bail-
way branches 1. to Helmdey (see Bte.
18a), whence ^evavilx Abbey may be
visited. Kirkby Moorside and Picker-
ing (Bte. 18a). 5 m. rt. is the village
of Gilling, and Oming CasOe (Mrs.
Barnes). Here the scenery is very
pleasing. The tourist should, if pos-
sible, arrange to see Gilling church
and castie, and then to proceed by
train to Helmsley.
OiUing was perhaps the "mark,"
or original settlement, of the Gil-
lingas, whose name is also recorded
in the Kentish and Dorsetshire Gil-
linghams. The Church, which has
been restored, is £. E. (nave) and late
Dec. (chancel). In the chancel,
under me low arch, is the monument
of a knight (temp. Edw. L), whose
head and hands appear through the
^40
Bouie 18. — GiUing Casde — Sionegrave,
qnatrefoil of a cross, the rest of the
body, except the feet, being hid. In
the S. aisle of the nave is the monu-
ment, with effi^i^BS, of Sir Nicholas
Fairfax, 8 times High Sheriff of York-
^ire (temp. Hen. "V^II. and Eliz.), and
two wives, who repose on projecting
tablets beneath him.
Through woods and long avenues
runs the approach to QiUin^ CcMe,
the seat of the Fairfaxes smce the
reign of Hen. VIII. until the death
of the late C. J. Fairfax, Esq. It
is now the property of Mrs. Barnes.
At the time of the Domesdaj Survey
it was held bj '^ Hugh son of Bald-
rii;" and it afterwuds formed part
of the Mowbray fee. The existing
castle is a Tudor building, attached
on one side to an Edwa^ian keep-
tower, and on the other to a wing
modernized bv Sir John Vanbrugn
(or more probably by his assistant,
Wakefield, who was employed at
Dnncombe and Newburgh). Much
work of the Dec. period remains in
the lower apartments of the castle,
now used as cellars and offices.
The dining-room, a very noble apart-
ment of tne age of EUzabeth, has a
frieze of forest work, decorated with
the arms of the gentnr of the differ-
ent Wapentakes of Yorkshire in the
year 1585, blazoned in their proper
colours. In this room also are 3
windows filled with shields of the
Fairfaxes, Stapyltons, and Con-
stables, the work of one Bernard
Dininckhoff, 1585 ; — excellent speci-
mens of the painted glass of that
period. The gallery, in which are
some beautifm carvings, is Yan-
brugh's work. In one of the apart-
ments are portraits (on one canvas)
by Dchton of Sir Thomas Fairfax,
the Parliamentary general, whose
** firm unshaken virtue ** is celebrated
by Milton, and his wife— daughter of
Horatio Lord Vere— whose voice was
heard during the trial of Charles I.
The picture must have been painted
soon after their marriage, as Bobson
took the Boyalist side on the break-
ing out of the war, and died in
1646.
The castle stands on high ground,
well surrounded with wood S. East-
ward the valley opens, and a very
beautiful view toward Stonegrave
and Hovingham is obtained. (& the
S. the ground slopes into a narrov
valley, the side of which nearest the
house is formed into a succession of
terraced gardens, very bright and
well kept. The ch. tower rises pic-
turesquely in the middle distance.
Altogether, GiUing castle well de-
serves a visit. Its ivy -clad walls, its
gardens glowing with colour, its
many peacocks sunning themselves
along the walks and terraces, the
distant views, and the masses of deep
wood crowning the nearer heights,
make a series of pictures that will
not soon be forgotten.
. The village of Nwmington^ about
1 m. from the gtcUion, stands on high
ground above the Bye, but contams
nothing to detain the tourist
Leaving Gilling, and shortly before
reaching
Stonegrave Stat., the Churdi is
passed 1., which has Norm, piers and
arches ; it was entirely rebuilt (1863),
with the exception of these piers and
of the tower. The canopied chancel
screen, with the date 1637, has been
retained. The tower, in all proba-
bility, dates from before the Ccmquest^
and deserves careful attention. Stone-
grave was the rectory of Thomas
Comber (died 1699), Dean of Durham,
and author of more than one valuable
work on the *Book of Common
Prayer.* He is buried in the ch., and
his descendants, who are stiU resident
in the parish, assisted largely in the
rebuUding. In the ch. are 3 effigies
—one of a cross-legged knight, temp
Hen. ni. They are for members of
the Thornton fiunily. Some stones,
Boute 18. — Hovingham — SSingiSty.
241
vith Bonic inscriptions were found
dnring the recent work, and a cross
raork^ with runes, which has been
re-erected in the ch.-jd. At
20} m. Homngham Stat. (Itm:
The Worsley Arms) there is a Spa,
"vrhich of late years has attracted
some notice. Tlie country is plea-
sant and wooded. The Spa is more
than a mile from the village, and the
road to it is scarcely passable in wet
weather. The Spa -house has a
garden, in which 3 springs — sulphur-
sodiac, chalybeate, and pure rock
water, are seen bursting forth, and dif-
fusing an odour of rotten eggs. The
waten, which are said to be useful in
cases of debility, are here the chief at-
traction. In other respects Hoving-
ham is but a sorry St. Bonan's ; and
the gaunt scantily furnished hotel ill
represents the hostelry of Mee Dods.
Many places of interest (all ^t are
incliid^ in the present Boute) are,
however, readily accessible by rail.
Hovingham (Jhurch was rebuilt in
1860, with the exception of the
tower, which is Norm., and has on its
S. side a curious piece of sculpture
(the base of an £aster sepulchre?)
inserted in the wall. The sculpture,
perhaps of the 12th cent., represents,
besides saints and angels under circ.
canopies, the Annunciation. In one
compartment is the angel Ghibriel;
in another, the Virgin seated, with a
vBse of lilies before her.
dose to the village is the entrance
to Hovingham Park (Sir W. Wors-
ley, Bart.), a modem Italian man-
iion, c<mtainin^ some good pictures,
drawings by old masters, and other
interestmg objects of art, — among
them a bust of Cromwell, from
whom Sir W. Worsley is descended,
throng the Franklands of Thirkle-
by. Hovingham is on the line of a
Boman vicinal way, which ran from
l^ton to Aldborough (Isurium). A
bath and tesselated pavement (mark-
ing the site of a villa) were found here
[TorftsMrs.]
in 1745; and at Easiness on the
same line of road, a sarcophagus was
dug up in 1616, bearing an inscrip-
tion by Val. Vindicianus to his wife
and two sons.
You may walk (2 m.) from Hoving-
ham, or proceed by nul to
22} m. Slingsbv Stat., where the
CatUe and Church are worth notice.
Mowbray and Hastings (the latter,
Earls of Huntingdon) Imd successively
a castle here ; and Sir C. Cavendi^
who afterwards acquired the manor,
is said to have begun the present
building about 1603. The moat
is no doubt that of the earlier castle,
which contained within its pre-
cincts a ch. nearly as large as the
present parish ch. As Sie castle
now stands, however, it is mainly
a Charles I. house, on vaults of
earlier date. The plan seems to
have been a square, with a square
tower containing earners privatse (?)
at each angle. There is much en-
richment about the frames and pedi-
ments of the windows. Iw covers
part of the walls ; and the ine trees
about the castle group happily for
the sketcher. A stone on one of
the outer walls (which was taken
down to be used as a hearthstone,
and is now lost) bore the following
inscription : ** lliis house was built
by Sir Charles Cavendish, son of
Sir Charles Cavendish, and brother
to William Duke of Newcastle. He
was a man of great virtue and learn-
ing; died in February 1658: and
this is placed here by order of his
nephew, Henry Duke of Newcastle
in the year 1690."
Slingsby Church (which was mainly
E. Eng.) has been pulled down, and
another one built from designs by
Messrs. Austin and Johnson, the
base of the old tower alone being
preserved. The features of the old
one are repeated; it was erected at
the sole cost of the Hon Admiral
B
242
Boute 18a. — CliUing to Pickering.
Howard (afterwards Lord Lamerton)
Three stained windows (memorial)
are by Claytcn and BeU. Here is
preserved the shattered effigy of a
cross-legged knight, temp. Henry
ni., holdmg a heart in his clasped
hands. He was probably a member
of the Wyvill family, resident for
many generations at Wyvill Hall in
this parish. No traces of their old
house remain.
[(From Slingsby, Castle Howard is
distant 3 m.(Rte. 12). The crest of the
Howardian hills, over which the road
passes, shows a long line of ancient
entrenchment. Many tumnli here
have been opened, disclosing nms of
baked clay.)j
24 m. Barton-le-Street Stat, (gain-
ing its distinctive name from the old
Boman road) has a ch. rebuilt at the
cost of the late H. F. Meynell Ingram,
Esq. (archit., Perkin» of Leeds). The
style is Norm., and the N. porch
retains some rich Norm, sculpture
from the former building. At
25| m. Amotherhy Stat., the Church
has also been restored and the chancel
rebuilt, the principal contributor
being the vicar, the Eev. C. P. Peach,
who himself carved the bench ends
and desk in oak, and the pulpit in
Caen stone, besides painting 3 lights
of the E. window. The cl^racter of
the restoration is Norm. (Fowler
JoneSy archit.). Some early crosses,
and the effigy of a knignt, temp.
Ed. n., were found in pufiing down
the old chancel, and are preserved
in the new. The knight was pro-
bably one of the Bordesden family,
who had lands in this district. The
ch. of Appleton-le'Streeti 1 m. W., has
a Norm, (or perhaps earlier) tower.
The line now sweeps round to
30 m. MaUon Jnnct. Stat. (See
Bte. 12.)
RODTE 18a.
QILLING TO PICKERING, BT HELMSLEY
[RIEVAULX ABBEnKIRKBYMOOR-
SIOE A»D LASTINGHAM.— Bail.
For Rail, York or Thirsk to Gilling,
see Ete. 18.
This line passes up the pleasant
valley of the Rye. Newton Grange
was the birthplace of the laborious
Yorkshire antiquary, Roger Dods-
worth, bom 1585. The rly. winds
round to
Nunnington Stai
Li Oswaldkirk Church (partly
Norm.) Bp. Tillotson preached his
first sermon.
HeUmsley Stat
Sdmdey (Inns : Black Swan, best,
and comfortable ; Crown ; Royal Oak)
is an excellent centre from which to
visit some of the most interesting
places in this part of York^ire.
Helmsley (Elmeslae in ^Domesday,"
from its elm-trees ; afterwards known
as Hamelac ; the whole district, a
parish 12 m. from N. to S., probably
gives name to the village) stands cm
^fiie N. bank of the river Rye, and on
fX^e of Roman road which ran from
\
Boute 18a. — Hdmsley,
243
York through Crayke and Gilling, up
BUsdale to Tees Mouth. It most
have been this ancient road by which
the Conqueror, after marching (Jan.
1070) from York to the Tees' mouth,
descoLded upon <*Hamelac," under-
going infinite difficulties from snow
and rough weather on his way. From
Hamelac he returned to York.
Hefansley was given by the CJon-
cpieror to the Earl of Moreton ; passed
to the Especs temp. Hen. I. ; and to
the great house of Bos or Boos by the
marriage of Adelina, sister of Walter
EspecYthe founder of Bievaulx, and
one of the leaders in the Battle of the
Standard), to Peter de Bos, whose
great-grandson Bobert, called *^Fur-
san,** one of the 25 barons appointed
to cany out the provisions of Magna
Charta, built a castle here about 1200,
which he called " Castle Fursan.'* His
grandson married the heiress of Wm.
de Albini,lord of Belvoir, which castle
thus became the propeity of the Bos
family. The direct lino of De Bos
ended in 1508 ; but the estates had
been confiscated by Edw. lY. (the
house of Bos was Lancastrian), and
granted to Bich. Duke of Gloucester.
They were afterwards restored to Ed-
mund, the last De Bos ; whose twin
sisters became co-heiresses. Eleanor
married Sir Bobt. Manners, of Etall
in Northumberland, and brought to
him Belvoir and Helmsley. A de-
scendant was created Earl of But-
Isnd by Hen. YIII. in 1525. Francis,
the 6th earl, had an only dau^ter,
who married Oeorge Yilliers, 1st Duke
of Buckingham. His son was 16
months old when he succeeded to
Helmsley ; and escaped abroad during
the civil wars. Heunsley was granted
by the parliament to Fairfax ; but in
1644 the castle was still held for the
king, and, after Marston Moor and
the surrender of York, Fairfax be-
sieged it, and was shot through the
shoulder by a musket-ball during the
riege. Helmsley Castle surrendered
(Nov. 22, 1644) on honourable con-
ditions, and was then, by order of
parliament, dismantled, and rendered
untenable as a fortress.
The Duke of Buckingham, the
famous Zimri of Dryden —
■* Everything by starts, and nothing long "-*
recovered Helmsley on the Bestora-
tion, and after the death of Chas. IT.
it became his favourite residence. He
died at Eirkby Moorside in 1687 (see
pod)j and in 1695 his trustees sold
Helmsley for 9O,0O0Z. to Sir Chas.
Duncombe, secretary to the Treasury
temp. Jas. II. Thus
** Helmsley, once proud Buckhigham's
delight.
Slid to a scrivener, and a City knight."
Pope** Imit. qf Horace.
He left it to his nephew, Thos. Brown,
who took his name, and built the
present house, Duncombe Park, in
1718. His great-grandson was created
Baron Feversham in 1826, and in
1868 his descendant was raised to an
earldom.
The points of interest in Helmsley
are the castle and the church. The
Castle ruins are on the rt., just within
the lodge gates of Duncombe Park,
on a natural isolated mound, close to
the river. They are surrounded by
a double moat, and cover altogether
about 10 acres. The earthworks that
enclose these ditches are interrupted
at intervals, and expand in places
(the outer line) into broad barriers,
and (the inner) into platforms, on
which barbicans were erected. The
plan is rectangular ; and ^ the earth-
works are upon a scale not usual with
castles of pure Norm, origin, and
which, notwithstanding their form,
raises a surmise that they may be of.
much earlier date." — (7. T. C. A lofty
fragment of the square keep, 96 ft. high,
wiSi 3 stories above the dungcCn, rises
on the E. side of the inner court, but is
rent from top to bottom by the force
bf the explosion which demolished the
rest, after the siege in 1644. The
basement and lower story are Trans.-
b2
244
Botite 18a. — Hdmsley — Duncomhe Park.
Norm., but this lower story has been
altered (the window recesses) in E.
Eng. times. It is probably part of
the original " Castle Fursan ;" out the
alterations may have been made by
Bobert de Ros., who married the
heiress of Belvoir. The npper part of
the keep, with its battlements and
lofty turrets, is temp. Edw. II. Be-
tween the outer and inner moats S.,
is a barbican 283 ft. long, with roimd
towers at each end, and returning
angles. The main entrance is in its
centre, through a gateway flanked by
circ. proiecting towers. " This gate-
house is late Norm, or E. Eng. behind
the portculUs groove. The groove
itself, witii all before it, is late Dec.,
probably of the age of the upper stoiy
of the keep."— S. T. C. The whole
work, witii the barbican on which it
stands, is remarkable. S. and N. of
the inner ward in which is the keep,
the ditches were crossed by draw-
bridges, of which the piers, counter-
piers, and bridge-pits remain quite
pCTfect. The causeway was but 12
ft. broad, so that any body of enemies
approaching by it would be placed at
a great disadvantage. On the W.
side of the inner comt is a range of
buildings forming the later mansion-
house, partly retaining their roofs,
There are traces of Tnuis.-Norm. and
Dec. work, but much of this is Eliza-
bethan, and was probably the work of
Edward, 8rd Earl of Rutland and
Baron de Bos, died 1587, whose shield
remains on the cornice of one of the
rooms. But ihe ViUiets arms also
occur here. There are foundations of
a building (perhaps a chapel) near
tiie keep ; and of round towere at
each angle of the castle platform,
which is mainly of rock. The ditches
could be filled from the Elton Beck,
which here descends to join the Bye.
Hehnsley Chwroh was almost en-
tirely rebuilt in 1869 (C Barry,
archit.), at a cost of 15,0001, the
whole contributed by the Earl of
Feversham. The style is Norm., and
some Norm, portions of the older ch.
(the chancel arch and S. doorway)
were retained. There is much stained
glass. In the S. transept is a hram
(early part of 16th cent) probablr
for Sir Bobt Manners and nis wife
Eleanor, who (see ante) brought
Helmsley to the Butiand family.
Behind the inn, and close to the ch.
is the Canon QoHh, once the residence
of the parish priest, now a poor cot-
tage, with an arched doorway and
some other antique portions.
In the market-place is a memorial
to the late Lora Feversham, erected
by his son. It consists of a Gothic
cross, by Sir G, Q. Soott, and a statue
by Noble (foundation-stone laid May,
In the neighbourhood of Hehnsley
are DuncomM Park, Bievaulx (} m.).
Kirkdale (4 m.), and Kirkby Moor-
side rs m.). Lastingham (5} m.)
may also be reached from here ; and
an excursion may be made up Bils-
dale. (All these are described in
the present Bonte, jmw<).
(a) DwMonAe Park (Earl of Fever-
sham) who, with great liberality,
allows the grounds to be seen at ah
times. The house (about } m. from
Helmsley) was built from a design by
Vanbrugh, but not under his personal
direction. It is vast and stately, with
much of Vanbrugh's " gloomy gran-
deur ;** but is far from being so suc-
cessful as the greater worlra — ^Castle
Howard or Blenheim— of the same
architect. Wings and a conservatory
were added 1845 by Sir ChoM. Barry.
The house was destroyed by fire 1879,
which consumed also part of a very
important collection of works of art
Among the antiques which were pre-
served is a dog of Parian marble,
bought in Bome by Henry Omstan-
tine Jennings for 80Z., which sum
included its transmission to England.
He refused 10002. for it; but it was
Boute 18a. — Duncombe Park — Bievaulx Abbey. 2i5
afterwards bonght at his sale for a
thousand guineas by Mr. Duncombe,
ancestor of the present Lord Fever-
sham. "It bears much resemblance
to that in the Uffizi at Florence,
called the Dog of Alcibiades, but is
more animated and of more careful
workmanship. The left fore-foot
alone is new." — Waagen. It is said
to be the work of the famous Greek
sculptor Myron. However this may
be, there can be no doubt as to the
wonderful life and expression of the
marble. Boswell reports some re-
marks of Dr. Johnson^s relating to
this dog : —
-F.*l have been looUng at this famous
antique maxtole dog of Mr. Jennings', valued
at a tboosand gttiiuaa, said to be Alcibiades'
dog.'
*« Jdhntan, • His tail must be doclced. That
was the mark of Alcibiades' dog.'
" J?. • A thousand goineas I The represente-
tion of no animal whatever is worth so much.
At this rate a dead dog would indeed be better
than a living lion.'
-Jokn»n. 'Sir, it is not the worth of the
thing, but of the sldll in forming it, which is
so highly rstlmated. Everything that en-
larges the sphere of human powers, tiint
shows roan can do what h#« thought he could
not do, is valuable.' "— /.i/«, voL viL p. 60.
Here is also a Discobolus or quoit-
thrower — "a good Roman work of
Parian marble. —TT.
Among the best pictures, are:
— JJo^rtfc— Garrick as Rich. III.,
the original picture for which Mr.
Duncombe, who gave Hogarth the
commission, paid him 200Z. Gutido —
David and Abigail (from the Orleans
Gallery, engraved by Strange). Jan
Both—SL fine landscape, with a water-
fall. Hohbema — a large, but rather
dark landscape. Claude— Two land-
scapes, good, but not of his best
character. Carlo Dolce — Martyrdom
of St, Andrew; "a very excellent
pictiffe of the master.' — Waagen.
Bassano — Annunciation to the Shep-
herds. Guido — Charity (engraved,
very striking); St. Catherine; The
Daughter of Herodias. Titian — The
Holy Family, in a very beautiful
landscape. N. Poussin — A Storm.
L$OfMrdo da Vind — Head of St.
Paul. State Bedroom : — Barocdo—
The Nativity; "Pleasing, careful,
and of very transparent colouring." —
Waagen. Wouvermans — Hawking
Party, very good. Bvhens — An old
woman and a boy, with a candle ;
cost 15002. N. HtUiard—Cl. Eliza-
beth. SmaU Dining Boom : — Chiido
— Adoration of the Shepherds. All
the Guides deserve special notice, as
excellent examples of the master
The vast semicircle of park in front
of the house, boimded by woods, and
imbroken by a single tree, is fine, but
somewhat dreary. On the garden
side extends the * Great Terrace,
commanding one of the most charm-
ing views, or rather series of views, in
Yorkshire : — over Hclmsley, its vene-
rable castle and ch., the richly culti-
vated expanse of Helmsley Dale, the
winding course of the Rye, which
here foniis a small cascade, the hang-
ing woods which rise on its opposite
bank, and the rich stretch of^ country
beyond, in one part backed by the
Eastern Wolds. At either end of the
terrace is a Grecian temple; one
of which, planted on high ground
projecting into the valley, is an ad-
mirable point of view. No one should
leave Dmicombe without visiting this
terrace.
(6) Bievaulx Abbey (the name, ge-
nerally vulgarised into " Rivers," is
Norm. Fr.=" Rye vales" as Jorvaulx
is " Yore vales ") is 3 m. from Helms-
ley by the high road, and somewhat
farther if the visitor takes the more
picturesque path across Duncombe
Park, and along the 1. bank of the
river. But in any case he should
make it a point to obtain his first
sight of the ruins from the terrace
above the valley, to which a gate
opens rt. of the high road. This ter-
race, which Burton justly calls " one
of the finest in England," was formed
by Mr. Duncombe about 1754. The
246
Boute 18a. — Bievaulx Abbey.
visitor passes through a screen of
evergreens, and suddenly finds himself
on a broad level of greensward, with
a temple at either end. (One of these
temples has an elaborately painted
ceiling by an Italian artist ; the other
is floored with a tesselated pavement
from the abbey.) Below winds the
stream of the Rye, through its own
vale, into which four lesser valleys
open ; all with narrow threads of
greensward lying between their steep,
wooded sides. <>)m and pasture fields
crown the nearer hiUs, the highest of
which, in front, is nearly covered
with wood. Bolder and more rugged
hill-crests look over from the top of
Byedale (the most conspicuous being
Easterside Moor, above the junction
of the Bye with the Scph coming
down Bikdale) ; and all round, in the
distance, sweeps the purple heather.
The great roofless ch. rises on the 1.
bank of the river — ^its waUs crested
with ferns and grasses and half
clothed with ivy. It may safely be
said that the scene, from its own
beauty and its impressive associations,
can scarcely be equalled in England.
(N.B.— No Inn at Bievaulx.)
Bievaulx, the first Cistercian house
in Yorkshire, was founded in 1131,
hy Walter Espec — ^the great baron of
Helmsley and of the Battle of the
Standard (see Northallerton, Bte. 16),
whose picture has been painted by
Aibed, Abbot of Bievaulx — "tall and
large, with black hair, a great beard,
and a voice like a tnmipet " (de BeUo
Standardi). In 1122 Espec lost his
only son by a fall from his horse. He
then vowed " to make Christ tiie heir
of a portion of his lands," and founded
Kirkham for Augustinians (see Bte.
12). Meanwhile Waverley in Surrey,
the first English monastery of Cis-
tercians, was established; and St.
Bernard seems to have sent a body of
monks from Clairvaux into York-
shire, recommending them to the care
of his friend Abp. Thurstan. By
Thurstan's advice, Walter Espec
settled them at Bievaulx, then a place
"vastae solitudinis et horroris" (IP.
of Neichurgh, i. 14), and precisely
such a situation as the austere Cis-
tercians most affected, with the grant
of a thousand acres (including Biis-
dale and part of Hehnsley), most, of
which were moorland and uncleared
wood. After founding Wardon in
Bedfordshire, Espec became himself
a monk at Bievaulx, died, and was
buried here. The piety and humanity
of the colony from Clairvaux soon
made them known in all directions,
and they rapidly became "a great
people" (gcntem magnam). Much
wealth flowed into their house, which
occupied a dignified position until the
Dissolution. Its first two abbots,
William and Waltheof , were personal
friends of St. Bernard. The third,
Aib-ed, sent from Bievaulx the colony
which founded Melrose, the first house
of Cistercians in Scotland. At the
Dissolution the gross annual value
was 3512. 148. 6d.
A winding path through the wood
leads to the ruins. "Bievaux," —
wrote Dorothy Wordsworth, July 9,
1802.— « I went down to look at the
ruins: thrushes singing, cattle feed-
ing among the ruins of the abbey;
green hillocks about the ruins ; these
hillocks scattered over with grovdeU
of wild roses, and covered with wild
flowers. I could have stayed in this
solemn quiet spot till evening without
a thougnt of moving, but W. was
waiting for me." — Life of Words-
tBorthy i. 186. The ruins consist
mainly of the choir and transepts of
the Church, and of the refectory.
The hospitium, at which travellers
were entertained, was on the rt of
the lane leading to Hehnsley. The
gatehouse is first passed ; and beyond
lies the ch., which stood (most un-
usually for England, although the
position from E. to W. is by no means
insisted on elsewhere) nearly from N.
to S. — a position rendered necessary
by the nature of the ground, hemmed
in by a steep bank on one side, and
Boute 18a. — Bievauh) — Bilsdcde.
247
by the Bye on the other. The nave
is reduced to shapeless mounds of
ruin. It was, however, in all proba-
bility Norm., and the work of Espec.
The' lower part of the transepts is
Norm., and probably, like the nave,
belonged to the first ch. The rest of
the transepts and the choir are E. E.
The choir (of 7 bays, and 144 ft. long,
including presbytery and retrochoir)
has most graceful clustered piers,
with (like the arches) plain mould-
ings. The triforium (the beauty of
which is beyond praise) has in the
easternmost bay two circ. arches, each
enc Using two subordinate pointed
ones. The main arches in the other
bays are pointed. Above is a lofty
clerestory with wall passage. The
jrrace and sharpness of the leafage in
the brackets of the vaulting shafts
and in the upper quatrefoils desen^o
special notice. There is more orna-
ment throughout the ch. than was
usual in Cistercian houses — far more
than occurs in any of the work at
B'ountains. The southern (for the
eastern) end of the choir has two tiers
of triplets, much enriched with the
torth ornament, the central light
being the loftiest. In the spaces be-
tween the lights of the upper tier are
small, half -sunk trefoils. A buttress
turret, carrying a staircase, remains at
the N.E. angle. The sharpness of
the stone-capping, and of the stone
throughout (which is the calcareous
limestone of the district), is remark-
able. The tower arch opening to the
choir (75 ft. high) remains, and makes
a grand frame to the picture on either
side. The most striking point of
view is perhaps about halfway down
what was the nave, looking up the
choir, with thick masses of ivy clus-
tering over its walls, and a wooded
bank seen through the window open-
ing. The grey stone, the floor of
p-eensward, and the mounds of ruin
covered with ferns and brushwood,
contribute the most exquisite colour-
ing to the picture. The entire ch.
was 343 ft. in length. In clearing.
in 1819, the site of the high altar and
the bases of the columns, a stone
coffin was found which, it has been
suggested, may have been that of the
founder. (It was more probably that
of Sir John de Ros, who was buried
near the altar. The founder, Espec,
is said to have been buried in the
Chapter-house.)
W. of the nave (it must be remem-
bered that the W. side here represents
what would have been the N.) was
the cloister, of which a few arches
remain. Opening from their W. wall
is the Befectory, with a remarkable
trefoil-headed portal (from which
there is a fine view of the exterior of
the transept) and lancet windows.
The recess for the reader's piJpit
remains. Below it was a crypt. The
refectory is E. E., of the same date as
the choir. Some remains of the dor-^
mitory (below it N.) are Norm. There
are considerable fragments of other
buildings, but none calling for special
notice ; and the general arrangement
of a Cistercian monastery will best bo
understood by a reference to the plan
of Fountains, where the remains are
more perfect, and have been more
thoroughly examined.
Near the bridge at the lower end of
the village is a place still called the
" Forge ;^' and judging from the largo
heaps of slag mixed with charcoal
that are stiU visible in the neighbour-
hood of the Abbey, there must have
been extensive iron-works here, no
doubt carried on under the superin-
tendence of the monks.
From Rievaulx you may walk
across the moors to Byland. (Seo
Rte. 18.)
(c) Bilsdd!^ may be visited from
Helmsley. A tolerable road runs up
the dale, which is wooded, pictur-
esque, and even grand in some parts,
with scenerv of the character already
described (Rte. 15). There is an Inn
248
B<niU lSA.—K{rMale.
at Chop Gkite, near BiMale ch. (mo-
dem), toward the upper end of the
dale, which the pedestrian will find
sufficiently comfortable^. From this
part- of Bilsdale you may cross the
hill either to Stokesley or to Ingleby
Greenhow. The entire distance will
be between 23 and 24 m.
On the hill rt, opposite Orterley,
is a circle called the Bride Stones.
The stream which descends Bilsdale
is known as the "Bilsdale Beck**
and the "Soph** until near Shaken
Bridge it mee^ the Bye, coming from
the N.W. above Black Hambleton.
The united streams are known as the
Rye (iZ&6, Brit, swift? The etymo-
-logy of BUsdale is not clear). The
sceneiy on the Rye above Shaken
Bridge is picturesque.
(c2) KirkdaU and Kirkhy MoorHde
deserve a visit.
Bail to Pickering,
Newton Stat.
About 1} m. from this is Kirhddle
and its Cave, interesting to geologists,
but scarcely deserving a visit from
others.
The road to KirJsdale, 4 m. from
Helmsley, runs at the foot of the
calcareous hills, which every here and
there send down streamlet through
wooded glens to join the Rye. Kin-
dale itself is one of these glens ; and
the Church stands quite alone on the
bank of the rocky Hodgebeck (the
key is kept at Wdbum, nearly 1 m.
S.). It is for the most part £. E. ;
but was restored and tne chancel
rebuilt 1880. The S. door has been
retained from an earlier building;
and on a long slab of stone above it
is an inscribS Sun-Dialy constructed
about the year 1060 ; and one of the
most ancient vernacular inscriptions
(of this class) in Europe. The oial is
in the centre, semicurcular, divided
into 8 hour-spaces. Above it are the
words — ^** This is deeges sol merca **
(this is day*B sun ma») \ and below,
" let ilcimi tide *' (at every time), and
" And Haward me wrohte and Brand
Prs.** (and Haward me wrought and
Brand priest). On either side is an
inscription, which runs — ^^* Oim Gamal
suna bohte scs . Grcgorins minster
thonne hit wes ssl to brocanandto
falan and he hit let macan nowan
from grunde, Chre and Sds Gregorius,
in Eadward dagum cflg, in Tosti
dagum eorV* — i.e, "Orm, Gamal s
son, bought S. Ghregodus Minster,
when it was all-to broken and to
fallen. He caused it to be made new
from the ground, to Christ and to S.
Gr^rias, in Edward*8 days the king,
in Tosti*s days the earl.** Tosti was
the great Earl of Northumbria —
brother of Harold — who fell, fighting
on the side of the Northmen, at
Stamford Bridge (see Rte. 8). There
is a sun-dial, with an inscription of
the same date in the ch. of Aid-
borough on the E. coast (see Rte. 6) ;
and at Edstone^ about 2 m. S.E. of
Kirkdale is another, with imperfect
inscriptions, "Lothan me wrohte**
and " Orlogiratory *' — ^**hour circle."*
The plain, round-headed doarwar
below may be part of Orm's work
(there are some curious crosses and
other marks on the E. side): and
within the tower (only accessible from
inside the ch.), another and more
remarkable early portal remains.
Some early tomb-slabs are built into
the N. and S. walls of the tower.
The stream (or rather its bed, for the
water " sinks '' about | m. higher up)
here is overhung by fine asJi-trees;
and the quiet and solitude of the
little ch.-yd. a^asist in taking us back
to the days of Edward and Earl
Tosti.
The famous Kirkdale Cavern,
which takes us back to far more an-
cient days — is in a quarry beyond the
stream, on the E. side of the dale.
Its entrance is now about 80 ft. above
the Hodgebeck ; but Professor Phillips
has suggested that before a channd
was opened in the lime rock at Malton,
BotUe 18a. — Kirkby Moorside,
249
the Vale of Pickering must have been
a great lake, on the ^ge of which the
Kirkdale cave may have opened. It
was first explored in 1821, and de-
scribed bj Dr. Buckland in his ' Beli-
qiii» Diluviane ' — ^but with a theory
which both himself and other geolo-
gists have seen cause to ab^don.
Great part of Dr. B.'s cavern has long
since been quarried away. Like so
many other ossiferous caverns, this is
in Uie calcareous limestone which
skirts and overlaps the more ancient
oolites of the northern moors. (See
Rte. 14.) It was, during the pre-
glacial period, a den, occupied by
successive generations of tigers, bears,
wolves, and especially by nyssnas, of
which alone teeth were found suffi-
cient to furnish 75 individuals. They
dragged into it their prey, which
sometimes consisted of remains of the
elephant and rhinoceros ; and when
notoing better offered, had no scruple
in eating one another. The bones
found were almost all cracked and
gnawed. The cavern itself is about
2oO ft long, and from 2 ft to 14 ft.
high; but the entrance is difficult,
and as all the bones have been re-
moved, there is little inducement for
the ordinary tourist to penetrate it.
It was, however, one of the first ossi-
ferous caverns discovered; and as
such has its own interest. Excellent
and complete examples of the bones
found in it mav be seen in the
museum of the Philosophical Society
in York; at Whitby, and at Scar-
borough.
The banks of the Hodgebeck, above
Kirkdale, are very pleasant The
upper part of Kirkdale is known as
Sldghihohneddley "And nowhere in
the district have we a finer sweep of
aboriginal wood than extends along
the slopes of this stream ; whilst from
Sleighthohnedale round the escarp-
ment "(of the calcareous hills — ^which
are sharply scarped, like sea-cliffs,
toward the N.), " as far westward as
Bilsdale, stretches a continuous belt
of larch plantations." — J. O. Baker
Kirkdale and Sleightholmedale are,
in fact, continuations of Bran»daU
(loadly *• Brancedil "), down which
the ELodgebeck flows. There is no
regular road up Bransdale, which is
picturesque, narrow, and wooded in
parts.
1} m. Kirkby Moornde Stat
{Inns: The White Horse; King's
Head ; both good.) This is a small
market-town (Pop. in 1871, 1788) of
little interest, except as the scene of
the Duke of Buckingham's death,
which took place, not " in the worst
inn's worst room," but in the house of
one of the Duke's tenants (it stands
in the market-place, next door to the
Eling's Head Ion), which was then
probably the best in the town. A
sudden illness, while hunting, obliged
the Duke to take shelter here. It is
generally said that he was buried in
the ch. ; but Lord Arran (who was
with him at his death) says in a letter
to Bp. Sprat, "I have ordered the
corpse to be embalmed and carried to
Helmsley Castle, and there to remain
till my Lady Duchess her pleasure
shall be known .... but I have
ordered his intestines to be buried at
Helmsley, where his body is to remain
till further orders.*' This letter is
dated April 17, 1687 ; and on the
same day his death (or the interment
of his bowels) is thus recorded in the
register: "1687 April 17th Gorges
Vilaus Lord Dooke of Bookingham.**
The body was afterwards buried by
the side of his father in Heniy VU. s
Chapel in Westminster Abbey.
Pope's well-known lines, incon-
sistent as they are with fact, should
be read at Kirkby Moorside : —
** In the worst Inn's worst room, \hith mat
half hnng,
The floors of plaster and the walls of dnnff.
On once a flock bed, bat repaired with e«raw»
With tape-ttcd curtains, never meant to
draw,
The George and Garter dangling ftom that
bed
Where tawdry ycllov,- strove with dirty rod.
260
BoiUe 18a. — Kirkby Moorside — Laatingham.
Great Villlera Ues— aUsI bow changed
from him.
That life of pleasure and that soul of
whim!
Gallant and gay in Cliveden's proud alcove,
The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love ;
Or Just as gay at coimcil, in a ring
Of mimic statesmen and their merry king.
No wit to flatter left of all his store ;
No fool to laugh at— which he valued more.
There, victor of his health, his fortune,
Mends
And fame, this lord of useless thousands
ends.*'— Jtfimi^ Euays,
Bryden's wonderful picture of this
« Zimri," in the *Hind and Panther,'
and Sir Walter Scott's in * Peveril of
the Peak/ will also be remembered.
The Church of Kirkby, chiefly
Dec., is of little interest. It contains
a hras9 for Lady Brooke, 1600, with
6 sons and 5 daughters. £. of the
town is the site (and nothing more)
of the castle of the De Stutevilles,
commanding a noble view over the
Vale of Pickering. The Neviles also
had a " hall " here, on the site of the
present Tolbooth.
(On Rudknd Moor, 6 m. N. of
Kirkby Moorside, was a high tumulus
called ''Obtrush Boque"^ or Hoh-
thrush's Buck (heap). Hob Thrush,
or "Hob o' th' Hurst," was a wood-
land and mountain spirit, of whom
a story is told, found in various shapes
and in the folklore of various nations.
A Famdale farmer was so much
troubled with Hob that he resolved to
" flit ;" and as he was journeying with
his goods towards his new home, he
met a neighbour, who said, "I see
you're flitting." The reply came from
Hob out of the chum, "Ay, we're
flutting" — and the farmer, thinking
it was as well to be vexed with Hob
in one place as in another, turned
back again. The mound was exa-
mined in 183G-<seePAtauM)— when
a stone kist, within a double ring of
stones, was found in it. These still
remain. " Hob Hurst*s House " is the
name of a sepulchral mound near
Hartmgton in Derbyshire.)
From Kirkby Moorside you may
proceed to Lastingham Ch., 5 m.,
by a rough, hilly road, through
very picturesque scenery. The views
up the valley of the Dove, which
descends from Farndale, are especially
striking.
La$Ungham, The old Churdi is
conspicuous on its hi^ bank, as the
village is entered. (There is a small
Inn near the ch. which may do as a
resting-place.)
In the year 648 (22 years after
Edwin had been baptized at York by
Paulinus), a monastery was founded
at Lastingham by Cedd, then Bishop
of the East Angle, " among steep and
solitary hills, where you would rather
look for the hiding-places of robbers,
or the lairs of wild animals, than the
abodes of men ; so that, according to
the words of Isaiah, ' In the habitation
of dragons might be grass with reeds
and rushes ' — ^that is, the fruit of good
works." (Beda, H. B., iii. 23.) In
664 Cedd revisited his foundation
during a pestilence which was ravaging
Northumbria, and died here. Tmrty
brethren of a monastery which he had
founded among the East Angles,
hearing of his death, came to Lasting-
ham, intending to remain where his
body had been interred. They were
well received by the brothers of
Lastingham; but all, except one
youth, died of the pestilence. Ceadda
(St. Chad) became head of this house
after his brother's death. He retired
to Lastingham after his consecrati(Hi
to the see of York had beenpro-
nounced informal by Archbp. Theo-
dore ; and it was from this place that
he removed to Lichfield on his ap-
pointment to the Mercian bishopric.
It is probable that the house, like that
at Whitby and others, was destroyed
during the Danish ravages.
Cedd, we are told by Bede, was
buried at first in the open ground,
but afterwards, when a " stone church
in honour of the Virgin " had been
built, his body was removed to it, and
Boute 18a. — LoBtingham.
251
placed on the right side of the altar.
There can he little doUbt that the
present ch. (dedicated to St. Mary^
wcupies the site of this "stone '
building, if it does not preserve some
portions of its ancient walls. The
church was well restored in 1879, some
of the objectionable alterations, or
rather introductions, of 1835 being re-
moved. The nave, with a narrow N.
and broader S. aisle, is E. Eng. (circ.
1190). The piers should be noticed.
The E. end of^the N. aisle now fonns
the vestry, but the wall arrangements
here are not very intelligible. The
Norm, chancel apse has had 3 round-
headed windows, one of which is
quite closed, and the others filled
with vile glass The S. porch was
.dv) '* restored'* from a design by
John Jackson, R.A. (bom here in
1778, died 1830).
A flight of steps descends from the
nave into the Crypt, untouched and
on-'* restored,** the massive and solemn
character of which readily suggests
the day of St. Cedd, although it is
no doubt Norman. It is in eflFect a
lower ch. (extending quite under the
upper with the exception of the west-
ern bay), with a nave and aisle of 3
bays, and an apsidal chancel of 2.
There are small circ.-headed win-
flo^-s, with deep internal splays at
the E. ends of the aisles; and one
narrow window-slit at the E. end of
the apse. 2 of the 4 piers are
very massive, with capitals of inter-
hr'mg arches and rude volutes.
The vaulting is quadripartite. The
date of the work seems circ. 1090;
and it is probable that the church
here was rebuilt as soon as possible
after the troubles of the Conquest.
Two small stone crosses, with inter-
laced carving, probably for use within
a church, and a portion of one which
lias been of unusually large dimen-
Hons— all apparently Saxon — with a
portable altar 17 in. high and 14 in.
wide, and adme other fragments of
early stonework, are preserved here.
There is also some early carved wood-
work.
The present tower is Perp., but
the E. Eng. ch. seems to have been
longer than at present, and piers and
arches of at least one additional bay
are retained in the tower walls. Con-
siderable foundations also, extending
westward, have been disclosed in
digging in the churchyard. On the
N. side of the crypt is a passage
which, within the recollection of old
people still living in the viilage, was
open for 40 yards and more, and was
traditionally said to lead to Bosedale
Priory. A few feet only are open
now. The ground on which the ch.
is built slopes rapidly to the E., so
as to admit of the scanty light there
admitted to the crypt. The narrow
buttresses and stringcourse should be
noticed.
In the village is Cedds TTeW, with
a plain and good design above it, and
a modem inscription. The village
itself lies in a hollow, among low
hills; and on a rising ground above
it is a plain cross, placed there on the
day of the Queen's coronation. Round
the trees and cultivated fields of the
village the heather sweeps in great
purple folds, so little is the scene
changed since those early days when
Bede visited the monastery to gather
materials for his History. He must
have approached it by the Roman
road that leads S. through the Caw-
thome camps; and the line of this
road may have influenced Cedd in
his first choice of the site.
(The pedestrian may walk across
the moor to the village of Rosedale
(about 4 m. — ^the position is marked
by the tall chinmey of the iron-mine),
or he may take the red which passes
up the dale itself. This will be a
longer distance. From the moor the
views are fine. The dale is plea-
sant, but not specially picturesque in
this lower part — For Rotedode
villagej and for the walk between it
252
and Whitby, see — Excursion from
Whitby.)
(For the walk or drive between
Lastingham and Kirkby Moonide,
see Bte. 18a.)
At AppUton-le-MoarSf about 2 m.
S. of liftBtingham, a ch. has been
erected under very interesting cir-
cumstances. A poor boy went to
sea from this his native village, —
realised a fortune, — ^returned to settle
here, and determined to provide full
means of instruction for all natives of
Appleton who should have, like him-
self, to struggle with the world. He
intended to build ch. and schools,
but he died before this could be
done, and his widow has carried out
his purpose. The ch., E. Ene. in
character, with a spire 50 ft. high,
is thus in effect a memorial of Joseph
dheplierd, who was buried at Lasting-
ham; but there is a monument&l
chapel here, the stained glass and
other decorations of which illustrate
his life and character. The glass is
by Clayton and BeU, as is the in-
cised work of pulpit and reredos. A
parsonage and schools have also been
built : the cost of the whole, with en-
dowments, being more than 10,0002.
(Archit., J. L. Fearaon.) The ch. was
consecrated in 1866.
Sinnington Stat.
Pidkering Junct Stat. (Bte. 14.)
BofOe 19.— York to Aldborough.
ROUTE 19.
YORK TO BOROUQHBRIOQE AHD
ALDBOROUGH.
{North'EatUm Sly. 3 trains each
way daily. Time al transit, 1 hr.
10 m.)
From York to (16} m.) Pilmoor ,
Junction, this route is the same as
Rte. 16. Prom Pilmoor Junct. a
branch line passes 1. to Borough-
bridge.
Brafferton Stat, about halfwav
between Pilmoor and Borough-
bridge. Brafferton Church is seen L
on a high bank above the river
Swale, which here flows S. to join
the Ouse near Aldborough. The ch.
(Perp.) was rebuilt in 1832, with the
exception of the tower. Local tradi-
tion asserts that St. Paulinus bap-
tized his converts here in the Swale;
and the position of the ch., on the
brink of the river, may have been in-
tended to commemorate some such
event. That Paulinus visited this
neighbourhood is suggested by the
fact that in the time of Edw. 1.
"Paulin's Carr" and the "Cross of
Paulinus** were referred to in ao
Inquisition as familiar objects in
the adjoining parish of Easin^wold.
(Bede mentions his baptizing m the
Swale, but with an especial reference
toCatterick. See Bte. 25.)
Boroughbridqe (Iim: the Crown,
old-fashioned — ^it is Uie ancient man-
BofUe 19. — Boroughhridge.
253
sion of the Tancreds — and mode-
rately comfortable), on the Ure, the
bridge across which gave name to
the to\¥Ti, was at a very early period
a place of importance, although it is
now utterly dull and uninteresting
but for its historical associations, and
the ancient relics in its neighbour-
hood. The visitor should walk to
the bridge and the " Devil's Arrows,"
and then proceed to Aldborough.
In an open space is a Memorial
Well — in nonour of A. Sherlock
Lawson, J J*.
A Boman road from Ifalton (?),
following (from Pihnoor) nearly the
line of Sie rly., crossed the river at
Boroughhridge on its way to Aldbo-
rough, ^ m. S. — ^the ancient Isurium.
By this road (or by one following its
general course) the Earls of Lan-
caster and Hereford, who had risen
Against Edw. II., and who had pro-
bably advanced to Boroughhridge
along the line of another Roman road,
leading from Castleford through
Wetherby (March, 1322), purposed
retreating before the royal army,
when their pr^ess was arrested
by Sir Simon Ward and Sir An-
drew Harclay, the governors of York
and Carlisle, whose forces were
drawn up in strength on the N. bank
of the river. In the fight (March 16)
which followed, De Bohun, Earl of
Hereford, was killed on the bridge
by a Welshman, with a spear thnut
from below through a crevice of
the phmking — a repetition of the
Northman's death at Stamford Bridge
(Rte. 8). Lancaster attempted to
cross by a ford, but was repulsed by
Harclays archers: he then begged
and obtained a truce till the follow-
ing morning, when he hoped that the
Scots (with whom he was said to
be in league) might appear; and
at daybr^, when summoned to
Tield, he entered a chapel, flung
Qimself on his knees before the
craciiix, and exclaimed, ** Good Lord,
I render myself to Thee, and put
me into Thy mercy." He was
taken to his own castle of Ponte-
fract, and there beheaded. (See
PofUefracty Bte. 28, for a further
notice of this famous earl.) The
bridge on which the Earl of Here-
ford was killed was of timber. That
which now exists is ancient, and no
doubt occupies the same site. The
chapel in which Thomas of Lan-
caster took refuge was probably that
which stood in the centre of the
market-place, and was destroyed in
1851. A new ch. has been built at a
little distance.
About i m. from the town (take
the turning opposite the Crown
Hotel) are the so-called DevWs
Arrows, 3 rude masses of gritstone,
which have long puzzled the brains
of antiquaries. Tney stand N. and
S., the northern stone about 200 ft.
from that in the middle, which is
800 ft. from the southern. In Le-
land's time there were four, the 4th
being very near what is now the
central stone. This 4:th stone was
lying on the ground when Camden
saw it, and was, not long since, used
as the foundation of a new bridge
over the rivulet Test, which joins &e
Ure at Boroughhridge. This stone was
21 ft. high.) Whe^er these relics are
Roman, as Leland thought, "tro-
phea a Romanis posita, in the side
of Watheling Stjeat,"--rude British,
like many single pillars on the York-
shire moors, and like the "Rud-
stone " on the Wolds (see Rte. 13),—
or even of the Saxon period, is a
question which is still in dispute.
They are (northern) 16 J ft., (central)
21} ft., and (southern) 22} ft. above
the ground; and as has been proved
by excavation, are imbedded aoout 4
ft. in the soil. They are marked at
the top with long deep scorings,
which are no doubt the effects of
weather (similar marks are seen on
the Rudstone), and not, as Leland
thought, the kaces of "certen rude
254
BofUe 19. — Aldborough.
boltells " used for working the stones
into the form of an obeluk. It has
been suggested that they mark the
limits of a Roman stadium, or race-
course ; but this, like everything else
about them, is quite uncertain. The
beds from which the stones were
taken may perhaps be seen on the
bank of the Nid, near Plumpton.
They should be compared with the
Budstone, which they greatly re-
semble.
It has been suggested that these
stones might have been connected
with a British town occupying the
site of Boroughbridge, but there is
no reason for believing that that
place was of any importance before
the Conquest. It is not mentioned
in Domesday.
Boroughbridge was first repre-
sented in Parliament in 1300 (Pal-
grave's *Parl. Writs'), but did not
again send members until 1553. Sir
]£chard Steele represented it for
many yean. Lord Eldon was its
member at the time he was made a
peer.
21 m. from Boroughbridge is the
Chureh of SkeUon (dedicated to
Christ the Consoler), built by Lady
Mary Vyner in memory of her son.
(Bte. 22.) It is a Gothic building,
designed by Burgess, and enrich^
witlun with marble sculptures, &c.
Aldborough (Inn: Aldborough
Amis), about J m. S. of Borough-
bridge, beyond a doubt the Roman
Isttrium, is not only the most
interesting Roman station in York-
shire, but one of the most im-
portaiit and instructive in the king-
dom. It was not only a walled camp,
but a city rivalling York itself
in size and (as is proved by the re-
mains found here) in wealth. The
elan was an oblong parallelogram,
tie circuit of the walls being about
1| m., and including all area of
nearly 60 acres. Two Roman roads
from York and Tadcaster (Calcaria)
met here — ^that from Tadcaster pro-
ceeded N. to Cataractoniom (Cat-
terick); and the so-called Waging
Street running N. from Hklej
(Olicana) here crossed the Ure.
The position was thus one of great
importance. "Isurium," says Mr.
Wright, "seems to have held to-
ward^ Eburacum somewhat the rela-
tion of Vemlamium to Londiniimi.*
The place is mentioned (and only
mentioned) by Ptolemy, and (twice)
in the ' Antonine Itinerary,' where it
is in one place called "Isnbrigan-
tum ;" a contraction most mobably
of "Isurinm Brigantum." The ety-
mology is quite uncertain, and the
guesses which make Isurium the
capital of Cartismandua, are entireh*
without authority. At what period
it was occupied by Teutonic Mttiexs
is unknown, but they of course gave
it its present name " Aldborough " —
the "old borough.*' (In Domesday,
and in charters of the next century,
it is only called Burc or Bnrg.)
Higden (Polychronicon) asserts ti&t
the town was burnt by the Danes in
766.
The manor of Aldborou^, and the
greater portion of the town, are the
properly of Andrew Lawson, Esq.,
whose house (the first rt. on entering
from Boroughbridge) marks the site
of the ancient W. gate. The ch.
stands exactly in the centre of the
Roman city. Boards with inscrip-
tions placed on the fronts of many
cottages indicate the spots at which
the most important discoveries have
been made from time to time; and
nearly at the head of the village is
Mr. LawBon^a Museum — ^the Museum
Isurianum. (yd. is charged for admis-
sion to each cottage ; and an examina-
tion of aU the relics will cost about
4«., which the antiquary at all events
will consider well spent.
The principid remains in the cot-
tages are tesselated and mosaic pave-
ments, indicating the size and bcautj
BofUe 19. — Aldborongh: Cliurch.
255
of the ancient honses. Of these the
most important are in the gardens
of the Aldborongh Arms, and in a
hrvnse (higher up the hill) outside
which is the notice, "Basilica with
Gr'?ek inscription.'' This latter
building seems to have consisted of
a rectangular ante-room, of a large
rectangular central apartment, and
of a semicircular apse bejond the
central room. In this apse are the
fragments of a Greek inscription
(only a few letters in tesserae of
blue glass remain — tlie red glass was
so beautiful as to resemble artiticial
rubies, and was quite equal to any-
thing produced in later ages) which
may '• perhaps be taken as evidence
of the refinement of the inhabitants
of Roman Isurium." — Wright The
apse, it has been conjectured, may
indicate that the building was a
temple or basilica; but it is fre-
quently found in Roman villas, and
was possibly a sort of sanctuary, con-
taining a fftatue of the deity whom
the owner of the house had chosen
for his protector.
The " Museum Isurianmn " m the
gardens of the Manor House is open
to visitors. It is filled with relics of
the greatest interest, collected chiefly
from Mr. Lawson's own grounds;
and seen as it is in immediate connec-
tion with the site and foundations of
the ancient city, assists materially in
carrying us back over the wide
chasm of 1500 years. Here are
numerous coins, ranging from Nero
to Maximns (proclaimed Emperor
by the 'legions in Britain, circ. 388) :
much Samikn ware, one case fiill
of pieces bearing potter's marks;
mortaria;^ iron Imives ; deer horns
and bdnes from the forest which
closed up round the city, and pins
made from the bone — (the pin-
maker's house has been discovered);
circular tickets of admission to places
of amusement ; dice ; spoons ; and
knives foimd with oyster-shells, and
probably nsed for opening them.
The course of the City WaU may be
traced in Mr. Lawson's grounds, and
near the Museum is one fragment
still retaining marks of the mason's
trowels. (Traces of fire are said to
be visible on parts of the walls, and
are assigned either to the destruc-
tion by the Danes, or to that after the
Norman Conquest.) The foimda-
tions in this part of the city show
how closely it must have been
packed, and by what narrow streets
and lanes it was intersected. Sepul-
chral remains of various kinds have
])een found at different spots outside
the walls, including urns, and a re-
markable cofhn formed of red clay,
like Samian ware, but unbaked, in
fonn like the sole of a shoe, 7 ft. 2 in.
long, and filled with ashes of oak
wood and a few human bones — ^the
remains possibly of a funeral pile.
Outside the city, on the S.W. side,
are the traces of an ancient stadium ;
and near them a large artificial
mound, circular in form, and known
as Studforth HiU. Near the ch.
(within the city) was another mound
called Borough Hill, removed many
years since. On it the members for
Aldborongh (first returned in 1557)
were elected. The Parliamentary
General Lambert represented the
place, as did the elder Pitt, Ist Lord
Chatham.
Aldborongh Church (restored, 1865,
in memoir of a former vicar, the Rev.
G. K. Holdsworth), chiefly of the
14th cent., is of no great interest.
Its walls are partly built of materials
from the Roman town, and a figure
of Mercury is conspicuous on the ex-
terior of the vestry. Inside remark
the peculiar set-off of the arch ribs,
and the frightful masks (with hollow
eyes) at the intersections. Againrt
the wall of the N. aisle is a brats,
temp. Edw. III. (circ. 1360) with the
name "Wills de Aldburgh." (The
Sir William de Aldburgh who was
summoned to Parliament as a baron
in 1377 was not of this family, but
256
Route 20. — York to Harrogaie — Marston Moor.
of Aldbnrgh in Bichmondshire.) The rowgate by Knaresboronglu 4 truns
knight's arms are on his shield and , daily (see Kte. 20).
i'apon, and he bears a heart between
lis hands.
The Marlcet Cron of banded shafts
with capitals is of unknown origin.
AldJbonmgh HaO, is the residence
of A. H. Croft, Esq.
3 m. E. from Aldborongh, on the
L bank of the Swale, is the vill^e of
Mytotif close to which the "White
Battle," or the " Chapter of Myton,"
was fought in 1319. In that jear,
whilst Edw. II. was at Berwick,
endeavouring to recover the town,
which had been surrendered to the
Scots, Bandolph and Douglas broke
into Yorkshire, and the Archbp.
(Melton) and John Hotham, Bp. of
Ely, were ordered to raise the potse
eomitalus. The real strength of the
county was with the king, and
accordingly a motley crew of 10,000
men was collected, many of them
clergy and friars. The Scots had
destroyed the suburbs of York, and
were lying near Myton when the
disorderly English army came up. It
was routed rffectually; many were
drowned in the Swale (a bridge over
the river here had been destroyed by
the great crusader Boger de Mowbray,
and was never restored^, many killed
(among whom was Nichoks Flem-
ing, mayor of York), many taken
prisoners. The marauders made
their way homeward wiih great
booty, and called the battle "the
Chanter of Myton,'* from the number
of clerks present. (Archbp. Zouche
in 1345 redeemed the clerical honour
at the battle of NeviU's * Cross, —
when he led a division of the English
army.)
lliere is some old stained glass in
the ch. of Myton, which, like that of
Aldborough, is partly built of Boman
tile.
&<2ioay^Boroughbridge to Ear-
BOUTE 20.
YORK TO KNARESBOROUQH AND
HARROGATE.
North-Eastern Bly, 5 trains daily
in 1 hr.
The rly. runs through a flat,
wooded country, of no great interest
until the neighbourhood of Knares-
borough is reached.
Passing the stats, at Poppleton and
Sesaay, we reach
Martton Stat This is the best
point from which to visit the battle-
field of Martion Moor. By far the
most complete accounts of &e battle
are contained in Mr. Merivale^s * His-
torical Studies,' in Mr. Sanfords
* Studies and Illustrations of the
Great Bebellion,* and (latest and
best) in Mr. C. Markham's * Life of
Fairfax,' where the very complete
and careful narrative is assistea by
an excellent plan of the battle.
In walking from the stat. to the
village of Long Marston (2 m. 1.) you
will pass over Marston Moor (the
main pcnrtion stretched away to the
Soute 20. — Manton Moor.
267
W.), now enclosed, but all open
ground at the date of the battle
(July 2, 1644), "one of the two
bl<x)diest ever fought on English
ground and between En^ishmen."
(The other was Towton.) The name
'* appeals perhaps more to the ima-
gination than tnat of any other field
of our great civil war : partly from a
certain amount of poetry and ro-
mance which has been expended on
it. partly because it was (thoueh
indirectly rather than directly) the
most important action and turning
point of me contest." — Meritfale. Be-
tween Marston and Tockwith runs
a road (crossing, at Long Marston
village, the high road tram York
to Wetherby) for about IJ m. S. of
this road is a rising ground (now
enclosed, then "open arable ** and
covered with rye), with a field on
its higher part called " CHump Hill,"
and marked at present by a small
clunp of young fir-trees, carefully
fenced. Along this rising n'ound,
and not much behind a ditch run-
ning from Long Marston village to
the Syke beck at Tockwith — a short
distance N. of the road— the Par-
liament's army was drawn up, and
"Clump Hill* is said to have been
its head-quarters. N. of the ditch
and of ihe Tockworth road the land
was unenclosed (except about the
villages of Marston and Tockwith),
and here was the station of the Roy-
alist troops. At their back (abont
1 HL N. <rf the Tockwith road) was
Wilstrop Wood, part of which still
exists.
The Fau^axes, Leven, and the
Earl of Manchester (under the last
of whom Cromwell was serving) were
besieging York, then defended bv
the Marquis of Newcastle, the King s
chief adherent in the north, when
Prince Rupert was sent from Lan-
rashire for the relief of the city.
The Parliamentarians moved from
their leaguer to intercept him, and
took post on Marston Moor, com-
manding the western roads. But
lYorhihire.']
Rupert turned them by a flank move-
ment, and entered York. He had
passed a day there when the troops
at Marston, who after some discus-
sion had determmed to leave Rupert
in possession and to march acmuk —
Leven's Scots had ahready reached
Tadcaster — ^heard that he was in full
pursuit of them, and that he had
drawn up his battalion on tiie ground
they had abandoned on Marston
Moor. The leaders at once halted
their troops, faced about, and soon
occupied tne slopes of the hill tdready
mentioned.
The battle did not begin until
about seven in the evening, when
the Marquis of Newcastle arrived on
the moor in his coach and six. The
Royalists were strongly defended in
front by the deep and wide ditch
already mentioned (so wide that it
was partly filled with musqneteers),
serving as a natural trench: and
the enclosures at the villages also
assisted them. (This ditch, contain-
ing at present but little water,
may still oe traced from Long BCar-
ston to Tockwith. It occupies a
natural hollow or dip in the ground,
which rises on either side immedi-
ately from it.) Their force was about
16,000 foot and 7000 horse; that
of the Roundheads about 20,000
foot and 7000 horae. Hie Puritans
wore white ribands or bits of paper
in their hats. The Royalists fought
without band or scarf. The Round-
heads, about seven o'clock, descended
from their vantage ground, and
charged the Roycaists' whole line
along the ditch at once—" the most
enormous hurly-burly, of fire and
smoke, and steel flashings, and death
tumult," says Carlyle, "ever seen
in those regions." "We just get
a glimpse of them joining battle
in complete array, and the next
shows them scattered, broken, strag-
gling across moor and field on both
sides, in utter bewilderment." David
Leslie and Cromwell feU on the
Newark horse, under Lord Byron,
s
258
BotUe 20. — Marston Moor.
at the W. end of the ditch, close to
Tockwith ; but Cromwell and his
men paused at a critical moment,
after dispersing Byron's horse (see
Marhliamf p. 167. There is reason
to believe that Cromwell at this
time retired from the battle). Leslie
advanced, met Rupert's horse in full
career, and conipletelj routed them,
80 that thej ned at once "along
Wilstrop Wood side." The Parlia-
mentarians chased them along the
York road for 3 m., committing
fearful slaughter, "to which bulled
found lone afterwards in the heart-
wood of Wilstrop trees bore silent
testimony." Rupert himself would
liave been taken prisoner, if he had
not hid himself in some "bean-
lands." At the same time, on the
extreme E., the Cavaliers (Goring and
Uny^s horse) had received the ^ock
of ihe Puritan*s horse ^Fairfax's and
Leven's), had utterly beaten them,
and chased them up the hill, whence
they fied southward. (It was at this
time that Sir Thomas Fairfax re-
ceived the deep sabre-cut across the
cheek, of which the scar is shown
in the portrait by Walker at Newton
Kyme, Rte. 43.) Fairfax's foot, who
were ranged next to these Puritan
horse, had to pass on to the moor
through a lane (probably the " Moor
Lane" near Long Marston, which
still exists) ; w^ere picked off by the
Royalist musqueteers on each side of
the way, and met Newcastle's foot
regiment of " white coats " at the end
of it, who beat them back in utter
confusion. The battle was so far in
favour of the Cavaliers. But 4 regi-
ments of Scots foot, imder General
Baillie, remained unbroken in the
Puritan centre, and held themselves
against the Royalists until David
Julie's and Manchester's foot re-
appeared on the scene and gave tiie
filial victory to the Parliamentarians.
Newcastle's regiment of " white coats "
resolved to die rather than to sub-
mit. They retreated into "a small
parcel of ground ditched in," called
White Syke Close (still traceable a
short distance W. of Moor Lane),
and " were killed as they stood, in
rank and file," so that after an hour's
close fighting not 30 white coats
remained alive when the Puritans
entered the close. The Roundheads
remained masters of the field. By
9 o'clock the field was cleared of all
but prisoners and dead, and the next
day the Puritans led their prisoner.
Sir Charles Lucas, over it, in order
that he might identify the bodies d
the dead Cavaliers. But he codd.
or would not, say that he knew any
one, except one gentleman "with &
bracelet of hair about his wrist,'*
which Sir Charles desired might be
taken off, saying that "an honour-
able lady would give thanks for it."
The dead were buried in trenches on
the field, in White Syke Qose, and
alone Wilstrop Wood; the country
people asserting that they had thus
disposed of 4150 bodies, no doubt an
exb-eme exaggeration. Bullets and
other slight relics are still picked up ;
and a gap in a hedge through which
Cromwell is said to have ridden is
still shown, and according to local
tradition can never be filled up.
Sir Thomas Fairfax, after the
defeat of his troops on the rt wing,
broke through the enemy^ and joinS
Manchester's horse in the other wing.
Lord Leven and Lord Fairfax fled —
the former to Leeds, the latter (it is
said) to Cawood — ^where "he went
to bed, there being no fire or candle
in the house." Rupert's share in the
fight is not clear : but he was present,
since his dog "Boy" was found
among the kiUed. Before the great
charge, some shots were exchanged
between the armies, one of which
killed young Walton, Cromwell's
nephew — " a gallant young man, ex-
ceedingly gracious" — wrote Crom-
well to his brother-in-law, Colonel
Valentine Walton. (See this remark-
able letter in Carlyle, i. p. 151.) The
Parliamentarians took 25 pieces of
ordnance, 130 barrels of powder, many
Bouie ^.—EamerUm—Gdddxfrongh.
thoasand stand of arms, and about
100 coloms.
Kirk HaimerUm Stat. The tower
of the Church, with the S. side and £.
end of the fabric, are either of Saxon
date or of the first veara after the
Conquest. The N. aisle was added
in the be^^inning of the 13th cent
The original detail may be observed
in the windows and W. door of the
tower, part of the entrance to the
nave, and a narrow window with a
triangnlar head on the side of the
choir (walled up).
(The rery interesting E. E. ch. of
Nun Monkton (see Rte. 1, Exc.) is
3 m. from Kirk Hamerton).
(The pleasant viUage of Green
Hamerton^ mach noted in former
da3rs as a posting station, is 1 m. N.
of 'Kirk Hamerton. It is said in a
mediaeval chronicle (Anglia Sacra,
ii- 371) that after Henry IV. had
caused Abp. Scrope to be beheaded,
he was struck with leprosy on his
way to Bipon, and spent the night
at Hamerton. After he had retired
to rest he was grievously tormented,
and called loudly to his chamber-
lains, who found him in darkness,
the fire and the lamps in the hall
and his chamber being extinguished.
The indescribable compound called
Theriaca Andromachi — ^used alike in
cases of leprosy and of poison — ^was
administered to him in wine called
vemage; and he so far recovered as
to be able to reach Bipon the next
day.)
A mile rt from the next stat.,
CaUal^ is Whixley. The tower
and nave of the Church are early
Dec. of good character. The choir
in the same style, was added by
Sir O, G, 8ooU, under whose care
the whole fabric was repaired. The
HaU, on the W. side of the ch.-yd.,
was the residence of a junior branch
259
of the Tancreds of Boronghbridge
* from the time of Chas. L to 1754,
I when it was bequeathed by Chris-
topher Tancred, Esq., to trustees for
the use of 12 decayed gentlemen, to
be resident here, together with an
estate for their maintenance, and
other beneficial purposes. -He was
buried, upright, within the wall of
the cellar, under the chapel, in the
house—a circumstance which gave
rise to a popuhir fallacy most gra-
phically illustrated in * Chambers s
Edinburgh Journal' for June 20
1857."--/. JZ. IF. The arrangementi
under Mr. Tancred's will have been
set aside. It was found that the re-
sidence of « 12 decayed gentlemen "
under one roof was not conducive to
tranquillity or general comfort, and
they are now provided for separately,
AUerton Stat, adjoins the village
of Allerton Mauleverer. Bt | mis
SUmrton Castley the seat of L^
Stourton. The house, which dates
from 1850, stands on the site of one
built by the late Duke of York, who
was occasionaUy visited here by his
brother the Prince of Wales. The
place was then known as Allerton
Park. The park, of about 400 acres,
IS picturesque. There was a Bene-
dictine priory here, founded in or
before the reign of Hen. H., but no
remains are visible. The Church was
rebuilt in the last cent.; but it
contains 2 cro^-le^ged effigies, most
likely of the Mauleverers, carved in
wood, and a brass with the effigies of
Sir John Mauleverer (1400) and wife,
that are worth inspection.
GMOxtrough Stat., the ch. of
Golc^borough is seen 1. It is mainly
u, ix, bcoa. Two cross-legged effi-
gies, of the 13th cent., deserve atten-
tion. (In 1858, in digging a drain
near the ch., many Saxon and Cufic
coins of the 9th and 10th cents
were discovered. A great quantity of
oriental coins have been found on
6 2
260
BouUW.—KnaretiMrougk: Ckmtk.
A line eziending from the Baltic to'
England, and profaablj came from
Samatcand in the conise of com- 1
merce.) GMAonmgh HaU is a good '
example of an Elizabethan mansion, ■
with conrtjard and gateway. God- \
frey Ooldsboroogh, Bp. of G'loocester
temp. Eliz., was of this family.
[2 m. S. of Goldsborongfa, very
pictnresquely placed on the bank ii
the Nidd, is RibtUm HaU (J. D.
Dent, Esq. ; the gardens and chapel
are open on Tuetdays), famous as the !
place where the ^ Bibtion pivpin"
was first grown. The original tree, j
raised from the pips of an app>le
hronght from Normandy (?) was still
alive in 1874, bearing well. The
collection ol pines and firs in the
grounds is one of the finest in the
North of Enghmd. The Knights
Templars had a preceptory here,
founded by Bobert de Bos, temp.
Hen. ni. The foundation of much
of it might be traced. The efligy of
a Bos (Soheii, the builder of Hehns-
ley Castle, see Bte. 18a), now in the
Temple Ch., London, and said to have
baen brought out of Yorkshire, may
perhaps hare come from this place.
In the chapel, the age of which is
uncertain, are two large slabs, from
which brasses have been removed.
These are said (but ve^ improbably)
to mark the jn-aves of Templars. 2}
m. S.E. of Ribston Park, on the 1.
bank of the Nidd, and rt. of the
Wetherby road, is Cowthorpe, where
ths largest oak in England still
exists in venerable majesty. ((3ow-
thorpe is best reached from Wetherby,
whence it is 3 m. distant. See
Wdherbv, Bte. 43, for a full notice
of this Yimous tree, and for the new
church at Euimngore, on the oppo-
site side of the Nidd.)]
A tunnel leads into
Knaretborough Stat. (Inn: the
Crown, good and reasonable), lying
below the town, but not far from the
Churchy which the tourist should
first see. Other places of interest at
Knarcsborough are the Qutie^ the
Dropping WeU, SL Bobefft Ckap^
and SL Hifberf* Cave. Each of these
has its proper gnardian, who cApecu
a small ^ conrideration."
BaiXwaf/9 — to York ; to Bipon and
N. Allertoa — to Leeds and to
BoroDghbridge.
Knaresborongh (the town on tike
rock— Jbuir, A.-S.; Pop. in 1881,
5000) is very picturesquely situated
on the L bank of the Nidd (the
Scottish Nith, and the Norwegian
Am2, are perhaps the same), here a
broad, full liver flowing betweoi high
clifis ol magnesian limestone with
wooded bases. In beauty of sitoatioa
no inland town of Yorkshire, except
Bichmond, can compete with Knares-
borough, which grew up under the
shade of the great castle founded
most probably Dy Henry I. There
are some Linen factories here,
but the prosperity of the place
depends at present on its corn-
market, which is one of the largest
in the county. The castle has
some historical associations, and the
connection of Eugene .Aram with the
town has, mainly since the publica-
tion of Lord Ljiton's romance, g^ven
a sentimental interest of another sort
to EnareslMMTough.
The Church, ded. to St. John the
Baptist, and restored {ChrvfUan^
architV 1872, is of various dates,
from E. Eng. to PerpL, and of
considerable interest The nave,
of 4 bays, is Perp., ; but the pien
of the central tower are earlier,
and the chancel is apparently E.
Eng. ; the windows Perp., and Dec.
insertions. These have been filled
with stained glass bv various artists.
On either side of tKe chuicel is a
chantry of E. Eng. date. That on
the N. side contains the monu-
ments of the Slingsbys of Scriven
and the Bed House, one of the great
cavalier families of Yorkshire. On
BtmteSO.—EMrahorougk: Cattle.
261
the floor, in the centre, is the fine
altar-tomb, with effigies, oi Sir Henry
Slingsbj, d. 1602, and wife. On
the S. aide is a standing figure of
Sir Wm. Slingsbj, the " discoverer "
of Harrogate (circ. 1596, see fxwf);
between the windows, opposite, Sir
Henry Slingsby (1634) in a '' Roman
habit ; " and on a flat stone is an in-
scription recording that beneath it
(which formerly covered the remains
of St. Robert) now rest those of Sir
Henry Slingsby, the famous Royalist,
beheaded in 1658. It is certain,
however (see port, St. Robert's Cave),
that this stone never covered the true
grave of St. Robert.
There is also a marble effigy of Sir
Chas. Slingsby, d. 1869. 'file other
Chapel belongs to the Romidell
family.
The font is Perp., with a rich
Jacobean cover. During the foray
of the Scots into Yorkshire in May,
1318, after destroying Northallerton
and Boroughbridge, they plundered
Knaresborough. Many fugitives took
refuge in the ch. tower ; and the in-
vaders piled up timber round it, and
lighted an enormous fire in the hope
of bringing it to the ground. They
were unsuccessful, but the marks of
their attempt, which reddened and
calcined the stone outside the tower,
are still visible.
The Cattle occupies a command-
ing position on the cli£F above the
river. The Norman fortress of Hen.
I., of Eustace St. John, and of
the Stutevilles, who were succes-
sively lords of the manor of Knares-
borough, and the most powerful
barons of the district, has entirely
disappeared. The existing remains
are not earlier than the reign of Ed.
in., who gave Ejiaresborough to his
son John of Graunt. When Leland
saw the castle there were "11 or 12
towers in the walles, and one very
fajre beside in the second area.'
This "fayre" tower wa.s the keep,
now little more than a ruin, but the
I most important fragment remaining.
(A small charge is made for showing
I it) It rose to a height of 3 stories
above the vault or "dungeon,"" the
groined roof of which is supported
by a circular central piUar, from
which 12 ribs radiate. This apart-
ment is lighted by a single loopnole,
and it is here thai, according to the
local belief, the murderers of Becket
" dreed their weird ^ for twelve
months after the commission of their
crime. (They did in fact retire to
this castle, then held by Hugh de
MorviUe, and remained here for a
year.) Above this dungeon is
another vaulted chamber, with two
pillars, in which are preserved some
rusty cannon-balls dug up within
the castle precincts, a suit of armour
said to have been worn at Marston
Moor by Sir Henry Slingsby, the
staff of " Blind Jack " (see jxwi), and
some other relics. The story above,
called the Kings Chamber, is said
to have served for a short time as
the prison of Richard II., before his
removal to Pontefract. This con-
tained two apartments ; the approach
to which, carefully defended by a
portcullis, was from the outer court.
One of these rooms was lighted by
an unusually large window, 15 ft. by
10, opposite which was the chimnej,
within an arch which also contains
a long narrow lavatory, an unusual
arrangement, which deserves notice.
(In 1224 covering the " camera regis "
here with shingle cost la. 2d. Four
baldrics for the balistas for casting
stones were made at the same time.
Several of these round stone shot
have been found about the castle,
and are shown among the relics
noticed above.) The story above the
King s Chamber is entirely ruined.
Nearly 2J acres are contained
within the area of the castle, which
was of 3 wards. In a MS. account
of it, written in the time of Hen. VIII.,
it is said, " In the castle are certeyn
privey stayres vawted, descending
under the ground, that goeth into
2G2
Boute 20. — Knareti}orattgh : Drappij^ Weli*
the bottom of the djtches for making
privy issues and excnrsies. In the
inner court a deep draw-well, with a
myghty gret wheel, a hows above it."
A portion of one of these sally-ports
can still be traced. Some masses
of the outer towers remain; and
there is a fragment with pointed
arches, which was probably the
chapel. On the land side the castle
was defended by a moat; the pre-
cipice was a sufficient protection
towards the Nidd ; and from the
brow of it the eye looks down with
pleasure upon the deeply sunken,
winding river, with great ash-trees
and a strip of green haugh stretching
along beside it.
The ruined condition of the castle
is mainly owin^ to the bombardment
it imderwent from the forces of the
Parliament, under Lilburne, who
besieged it in 1644 for nearly 6
weeks, until it surrendered ; in 1648
he dismantled it. (It was then
pulled down by one Bichard Bhodes
of Enaresborough.) The garrison
during the siege was greatly strait-
ened for want of provisions. "A
youth, whose father was in the
garrison, was accustomed nightly to
get into the deep, dry moat, climb
up the glacis, and put provisions
through a hole, where tne father
stood ready to receive them. He
was perceived at length ; the soldiers
fired on him. He was taken pri-
soner, and sentenced to be hanged
in sight of the besieged . . . For-
tunately, however, this disgrace was
spared ihe memory of Lilburne and
the Republican arms. With great
difficulty a certain lady obtained his
respite, and after the conquest of the
place and the departure of the troops
the adventurous son was released.** —
Lord Ltftton.
The Nidd is here crossed by two
bridges. The tourist should take that
highest up the river (nearest the
stai.) ; and after crossing it, a gate,
1., will lead him into the long walk,
winding by the river side under a
pleasant hanging wood. In this walk
is the famous Dropping Well, which
is nothing more than a source spring-
ing out at the bottom of the limestone
cliff, and passing over the top of a
Erojecting mass of rock about 25 ft
ign, so as to fall in cord-like
streamlets from its brow, into a semi-
circular channel cut below. The rock
itself, richly draperied with mosses,
ferns, and grasses, is very picturesque ;
but, unhappily, the water is strongly
impregnated with lime; and ol uas
advantage has been taken to vulgarise
the scene most effectually. The top
of the cliff, with all its vegetation,
has been naturally encrusted with car-
bonate of lime, which drops over ia
a continuous stony mantle. Beneath
this the guardians of the spring have
suspended dead birds ana animals,
branches of trees, old hats, stockings
and shoes, and various matters equally
absurd, which became "petrified''
under the dropping, and are carried
off as "objete de vertu** bv the
curious, chiefly visitore from Harro-
gate. Either at the weU itself, or
at the public-house {Mother 8MpUm
Inn) through which he must pass
to emerge at the further end of the
long walk, the visitor will be called
on to pay 6d, for his inspection.
Mother Shipton, the prophetess, is
said to have been bom near the
Dropping Well at the end of the
15th cent. The cliff on the opposite
side of the river, under the castle,
exhibits a good section of the mag-
nesian lunestone, superimposed on red
sandstone. Xiower down tne limestone
alone is seen.
Becrossing the Nidd by the Lower
bridee (near the public-house), we
reach (on the 1. bank) a veay large
quarry excavated in the limestone
rock (magnesian^, which is burnt in
the adjoining kihis. Owing to the
ease with which this rock is excavated,
the cliffs below this have bees hoi-
Boute 20. — Knareshorough : St. Bohert.
268
lowed out into numerous cavities,
some of which serve as dwellings,
s'lmetimes walled in front, and having
chimneys carried out at the top;
Mjmetimes with windows and doors
let into the rock itself. The most
remarkable of these is 8i. Roberts
Chapely scooped out and inhabited, it
is said fbut?), by the same St.
Robert wnose cave or hermitage we
ure about to visit further down the
river. An altar has been cut out of
the rock, and one or two rude figures
carved within this so-called chapel.
The figure of an armed man with a
sword in his hand is sculptured out-
side as if guarding the entrance. The
tracery of the window is Perp. Fort
Mf/ntague was hewn out of the rock
by a weaver and his son in the course
of 16 years' labour, and was named in
honour of the Duchess of Buccleugh,
their benefactj-ess.
Passing these Troglodytic dwell-
ings, which need not take up much
time, and are little better than traps
for travellers* spare coin, and con-
tinuing along the 1. bank, under rocks
grown over with trees and ivv, the
favourite Sunday walk of ifugene
Aram, you come to the Priory (its
site is now occupied by a modern
house called the '* Abbey "), founded in
1257 by Richard of Cornwall, brother
of Henry III., for "brethren of the
Holy Trinity and of captives." Some
foundations have been laid open near
the house, but there are no remains of
architectural interest. A little more
than a mile below Knareshorough is
the cell hollowed in the rock called
St. Bobert% or more generally, at
prt-sent, Eugene Arams Cave. A
path and some rude steps lead down
to it from the road, and the keys arc
kept at a neighbouring cottage.
St. Bobert (of whom there exist
three distinct Lives, written probably
by the Prior of the neighbouring
convent early in the 15th cent., was
the son of a certain Tok Fluore, who
had been twice mayor of York in the
latter part of the 12th cent. In very
early life, leaving, according to
Leland, the lands and goods to which
he was heir, he retired to the banks
of the Nidd at Knareshorough, to a
cave called St. Giles's Chapel. A
chapel ded. to St. Hilda, with as
much land as he could dig, was
afterwards given him in another part
of the forest ; but William de Stutt-
ville. Lord of Knareshorough, one
day passed by, and, declaring that
Robert was an " abettor and receiver
of thieves," ordered the building to
be pulled down. The hermit flien
returned to the Cave of St. Giles, but
William, once more passing by " with
hound and hawk," declared that he
should be again ejected, and was
only restrained by a fearful vision,
which compelled him to seek the
hennit in his cave, to entreat his
pardon, and to bestow on him land
and alms for the needy. Walter,
mayor of York, and brother of St.
Robert, afterwards visited him, and
caused a small chapel, ded. to the
Holy Cross, to be built adjoining the
cell ; and the hermit's fame became
so great, that King John, little given
as he was to reverence sainte or
hennits, once visited him, and gave
him as much of the neighbouring
wood as he could till with one plough.
St. Robert died about 1218, and the
monks of Fountains sought to carry
his body to their new choir, but were
prevented. He was buried before the
altar of the CTiapel of the Holy Cross ;
and many miracles are said to have
been performed at his tomb. In his
lifetime, among sundry other marvels,
he shut up in his bam all the stags of
the forest which injured his com,
compelling them to walk in like
lambs.
The Cave of St. Giles, with the
chapel of the hemiit, which had long
been pointed out by tradition, became
specially attractive after the pnblica-
I tion of * Eugene Aram,' since it was
264
Bouie 20. — tkgene Aram—Scriven HaU.
here that Daniel Clark was mur-
dered on the night of Feb. 7, 1744-5,
either with the hand or bj tiie privitj
of Eagene Aram, and where the body
lay concealed 14 years. The cave
(which up to that time had been
half filled with earth and rubbish)
was cleared after the appearance of
the novel, and the foundations of the
chapel in front were discoYered. This
measures 16 ft. 8 in. long, by 9 ft.
8 in. wide: the eastern end being
raised for the altar platform, of which
a portion remains. In the western
half is a coffin hewn in the rock, no
doubt that of St. Bobert (although
no remains were found in it). Had
Eugene Aram known of the existence
of this coffin, he might hare used it
for the effectual concealment of his
guilt. (The inscribed stone which
now protects the grave of Sir H.
Slingsby in Knaresl^rough Ch. cannot
have covered this coffin. It may have
been brought from the Priory.) The
cave itself, rudely cut out in the cliff,
was the dwelling-place of the hermit,
whose bed was a recess formed in the
rocky wall.
The story of Eugene Aram is too
familiar to need repetition here at
any length. He was bom 1704
at Rams^ill, in Nidderdale, and was
an usher m a school at Enaresborough
at the time of Uie murder. Very
soon afterwards he went to Lynn, in
Norfolk, and had remained there more
than 13 years when the crime was
discovered by the confession of House-
man, who was present at the dis-
covery of some hmnan remains in a
quarry, and drew suspicion on him-
self by taking one of the bones in his
hand, with the words, "This is no
more Daniel Clark's bone than it is
mine.** Aram was apprehended, con-
victed, and executed at York in 1759.
That he was of remarkable attain-
ments for his position and oppor-
tunities is certain; but the glory
reflected on him in Lord LyUon^s
romance is probably auite unmerited.
He seems to have fully deserved his
fate : unless the remorse so powerfuUy
depicted in Hood's * Dream of Eugene
Aram 'should be held to have been
sufficient punishment.
A far worthier "celebrity" oC
Ejiaresborough is John Metcalf,
usually known as " Blind Jack^ who
was bom here in 1717. When six
years old, his sight was totally
destroyed by small-pox ; vet, in spite
of this, he made nimself perfectly
acquainted witii the country tor mils
round his birthplace, and became
noted as a man of strong natural
ability and resources. After many ad-
ventures, he undertook, about the year
1765, tiie construction of a portion of
a new turnpike-road between Harro-
gate and Boroughbridge ; and from
uiis time his life was spent in road-
making and bridge-building. The
main roads of the N. were then in
wretched condition. Blind Jack
proved himself sing^arly skilful in
the work of making new ones; and
some most important lines of road in
both Yorkshire and Lancashire were
constmcted by him. In conducting
roads over boggy ground he anticipated
a plan afterwards adopted by George
Stephenson. He died in 1810, aged
93, at Spofforth, near Wetherby.
The life of Blind Jack is a favourite
Yorkshire chap-book. The best ac-
count of him will be found in 8mM$
* Lives of the Engineers,' vol. L
In the neighbourhood of Enares-
borough is Scriven HaJEL, the old seat
of the Slingsbys; and (2 m. S.)
FlampUm Park, for nearly 600 years
in the possession of the Pluraptons,
but now belonging to the Earl of
Harewood. Sir William Plumpton
was beheaded with Archbp. Scrope
(his uncle) in 1405. (The ' Flump-
ton Correspondence,* printed by
the Camden Society, contains much
curious information about this family.
The pleasure-grounds here, fomied
out of an abuidoned . stone-quany,
Boute 20.— Harrogate.
265
are extensive and beantifol. They I
are open to visitors. |
On quitting Knaresborough Stat.,
there is a pleasing view of the town
and castle from the lofty Viaduct
Between Knaresborough and Hairo-
gate is Starbeck Stat, where is a
s]3a with batlis, and all the ap-
pliances for their convenient use.
ftie springs here are sulphureous and
chalybeate; both weaker than those
of Harrogate ; and invalids are recom-
mended to begin with them before
they proceed to the stronger spa.
li m. from Starbeck we reach
Harrogate Junct. Stat., midway
between High and Low Harrogate;
the former rt on entering, the latter 1.
rOmnlbujies meet every train, and cate
are in waiting. Motels of the flrat-class,
are (In JHq/i Harrogate) the Granby, the
IMnce of Wale^ the Queen, the Prospect;
(In lAfVf Harrogate) the Crown. Othens
•somewhat inferior, but sUll good, are (High
Hjirrogale) the Rovml, Clarendon, and
(.iascoigneVi; (I»w Harrogate) the White
Hart, the Wellington, Binns's, the Adelphi,
the George, N. JSatUm Station, At the
« Jranby and at the Crown, the weelcly cost of
l.Hlglng and board at the public Uble is about
s^. 6f. 6d., be8lde« Mrvants* fee«. The cost
at hotels of the second class is less, but is
pnerallv about 6«. a day. All the hotels
have suites of public rooms. Lodgings are
to be had in all directions. High Harrogate
is the more aristocratic side, and the Granby
Hotel commands the beat view. The Har-
rngate season continues from the middle of
summer to the end of autumn.
RaOwayt to York ; to Leeds ; by Tadcaster,
to the Great Northern Stat, at Church Fenton ;
t« Pately Bridge; to Ben Rhyddlng and
Jlklev; and by Ripon or Boroughbridge to
Northallerton.j
Harrogate, the most important
inland watcriug-place in the north of
England, has 9482 Inhab.
The name Harrogate no doubt in-
dicates its position on a very ancient
line of road — li&re gat (A.-S.) "the
military way" — ^the way of the " host"
— whidi ran northward through the
forest of Knaresborough. The town
is spread over the head of a ridge of
millstone grit, which here breaks
through the limestone, and along the
sides of a valley opening W. from it.
The land declines E., W., and N.
from its highest point (near the rly.
stat.). The general elevation is about
300 ft., the greatest 600 ft. above the
sea-level. The climate is dry and
bracing, owing partly to this eleva-
tion, and partly to the open character
of the ground, which, when Smollett
wrote * Humphrey Clinker* (circ.
1767), was " a wild common, bare
and bleak, without tree or shrub, or
the least signs of cultivation." Plan-
tations have since been made in
various directions, but the greater
part of High Harrogate still remains
open; and when an Act of Parlia-
ment for dividing and enclosing the
waste was obtained in 1770, 200
acres were reserved "to be for ever
open and unenclosed." They fonn
what is now the " Stray ^ S. of the rly.
stat. From some of this ground, and
from the hills beyond it, wide, but
not very fine prospects are com-
manded. The scenery in the im-
mediate neighbourhood is pleasant,
tiiough not very picturesque ; and in
Harrogate itself the chief resources
are the promenades, the pump-rooms,
and the balls given occasionally at
the different hotels. All classes meet
at Harrogate, and, making due allow-
ance for the difference of modern
manners, the way of life seems very
much the same here at present as it
was in the days of Matthew Bramble.
"Most of the company," he writes,
"lodge at some distance, in five
separate inns, situated in different
parts of the common, from whence
they go every morningto the well in
their own cauriages. The lodgers of
each inn form a distinct society, that
eat together; and there is a com-
modious public room, where they
breakfast in disJiabille, at separate
tables, from eight o'clock till eleven
as they chance or choose to come in.
Here also they drink tea in the after-
noon, and play at cards or dance in
the evening. One custom, however,
prevails which 1 look upon as a
266
Route 20.— Harrogate— The Waier8.
Bolecism in politeness. The ladies
treat with tea in their turns, and
even girls of sixteen are not exempted
from this shameful imposition, lliere
is a public ball by subscription everT
night at one of the houses, to which
all the company from the others are
admitted by tickets; and indeed
Harrogate treads upon the heels of
Bath in the articles of gaiety and dis-
sipation."— Humphrey Clinker. (See
also Amory's *Life of John Bnncle'
for some curious particulars of old
Harrogate lif e.J)
Harrogate ues . in the parish of
Hilton, and was mcluded in the
great forest attached to the Honour
of Ejiaresborough, a portion of
which (embracing Harrogate) was
granted in 1200 by William de
Stuteville to the Plumptons, who
long held it. The forest was stripped
of much of its timber in the reign of
Elizabeth, when the smelting of iron
ore was largely carried on in this
district; but it was still wild hunting-
ground when Sir William Slingsby,
about the year 1596, accidentally
discovered the first Spa. He had
travelled much in Gbmuuiy, ^*seen
and been acquainted with their
Spa," and found this of Harrogate
"exactly like it." (The "German"
spring was at Spa near Li^ge,
whence all the others were named.
This of Harrogate was the first
discovered in England. Those at
Tunbridge Wells date from 1606;
and that of Scarborough from about
1620.) Sir William caused i^e spring
to be protected; its fame increased;
and many remarkable cures are re-
corded as effected by it before 1632.
It was then called the " Enarcs-
borough Spa," for, although the
name of Harrogate had always been
give to this part of the forest, it
was too little known to be used.
"Much company," wrote Stockdale
of Enaresborough to Lord Fairfax
(1641), " are now at the Spas; both
of the gentry of the county and of
the eommanderi refofmadoes.** The
first "public-house," on the site d
the present "Queen," was bnih in
1687; otiiers were soon added, but
HajTOgate was still small and ill-
provided with acconunodatioQ until
the present century. It has rapidlj
increased since 1840, and the. nil-
ways have now rendered it easy d
access from all quarters.
The "Spa" first discovered by
Sir W. Slingsby was that called the
« Tewit" WeU, in the Stray, nearly
opposite the Royal Hotel. (" Tewit^
is the local name of the lapwing or
" pewit," which frequented this open
common.) About 25 springs are
now known, and are available by the
public. All are sulphureous and
chalybeate, and nearly all are in
Low HiUTOgate. They have been
thus arrang^ : —
1. Strong Bulphur toaiers, — ^The Old
Well, the Montpellier strong sulphur
Well.
2. MUd sulphur waters,— Of these
there are 17 springs: 13 in Lower
Harrogate, 1 at Starbeck, 3 at Har-
low Car.
3. Saline chaiyheates.—'la the Mont-
pellier and the Royal Cheltenham
pump-rooms.
4. Pure chalyheates. — 2 on the
Common, High Harrpgate; 1 at
Starbeck ; 1 at Harlow <&.
The sulphureous waters are most
useful in cases of indigestion, and in
all nervous disorders. The chaly-
heates are alterative and bracing.
None of course should be taken
without medical advice. "The sul-
phuretted water of Harrogate, loaded
with common salt, is an indication of
a deep-seated spring, rising under
peculiar circumstances. The *01d
Weir is in fact a salt spring with
traces of iodine and bromine as in
modem sea- water ; and possibly
there may be only one deep source
for this water and the springs both
£. and W. of it, as far as Harley
Boute 20. — BarrogcUe — Excursions.
267
hai Starbeck, and jBilton. The
differences betvreen these springs —
in proportion of sulphates particu-
larly — seem to be eicplicable as
effects due to the different channels
through which they reach the sui-
face."— PAtKtps.
To the ordinary tourist the most
curious of these springs are the so-
called *• bog-springs " which rise in
a triangular piece of ground in Low
Hurrogat^. They are 17 in number,
and all varying in the proportions of
their constituent parts, though they
rise within 3 or 4 yards of one
another. The Harlow Car springs,
about 1 m. W. of Harrogate, amid
pleasant woodland scenery, were dis-
covered in 1840.
The waters are used for baths as
well as for drinking. Until 1832 the
custom of bathing in tubs, immor-
talised by Matthew Bramble (see
' H. Clinker *), was retained. In
1871 the Victoria Baths^ near the
Town Hall, were built. There are
others in the Montpellier Qardens, at
Starbeck, and at Harlow Car. A
•Bath Hospital,** for the relief of
poor patients, was founded in 1834,
and is mainly supported by voluntary
contributions,
Harroeate contains, of course, no
ancient buildings. The most impor-
tant promenade and pump-room is
the Royal Cheltenham (Low Harro-
gate) opened in 1835. Pleasant
gardens are attached to it. In the
Montpellier Gkudens is a venerable
thorn, which is no doubt a relic of
the forest, and has witnessed all the
changes which the course of two
centuries has brought to Harroga,te.
The only ch. which deserves notice
is St. John's BUton, built 1856 from
the designs of Sir Q, G. Scott
WdUts from Harrogate may be — ^to
Birk Crag, about 1 m. S., a narrow
valley about J m. in length, wild
and picturesque, with rocky sides:
to Harlow CSar, somewhat S. of Birk
Crag, on the road to Otley, a quiet
and pleasant spot, surrounded by
wood. The Spa here has been no-
ticed above. There is an hotel with
agreeable grounds. Harlow Tower,
1 m. W., was built on Harlow Hill
in 1829. Its height is 100 ft, and
from its smnmit a magnificent view
is obtained over the vale of York
and the comparatively level country
southward. To the west the hilis
of Nidderdale and Wensleydale close
in the landscape. Lincoln Cathedral
and the Peak of Derbyshire are said
to be visible from this tower on a
clear day. Longer walks may be to
Qreai Almes Cl^, 5 m. S.W., a grit-
stone crag crowning a hiU 716 ft.
high. On its summit are numerous
rock basins, no doubt the effect of
weather, and not artificial ; and on
its W. side a fissure called "Fairy
Parlour." A wide view is obtained
from it. {Litae Almes Cliff, 121 ft.
higher, is 3 m. distant N.W.) The
grounds of PZumjpton, 4 m. S.E., are
open daily, Qd. each charged for
admittance (see ante — Exc. from
Ejiareslx)rough) ; and Knaresborough
(3 m.) is also within walking dis-
tance.
The many interesting places which
are within hng day's Excursions from
Harrogate form one of its chief
attractions. The most important
are —
(o) Knaresborough — see above.
(6) Bibston (5 m., open on Tuesdays)
and Cowihorpe (6 m.). Ribston is
noticed in the present Rte. ante;
Cowthorpe, Rte. 43. Plumptoti (open
daily) may be taken on tne road to
Ribston.
(c) Hareioood (8 m. by road). The
house and grounds (open on Thiu^-
days), the remains of the castle and
the ch., are here to be seen. Hare-
wood is 4 m. 1. of the Arthington
Stat, on the Leeds Rly. (See for
Hareuoood, Rte. 29.)
268
Boule 21. — Harrogate to Patdey Bridge.
(d) Ripon (Cathedna), 11 m., and
FounlainB Abbey, 3 m. farther, are
easily reached hj rly. (see Bte. 22).
(e) Odey and OUey Chevin, whence
' is a magnificent view, lie 4 m. rt. of
the Arthington Stat, whence a
hranch rly. runs through Otley to
UUey. There are 5 trains daily
from' Arthington to Ilkley and back.
The transit is made in half an hour.
Near Otley is Farrdey Hall, with its
fine collection of Turner drawings.
(See Rte. 30.) Ottey and Ilkley
churches are worth notice, and there
is much very picturesque scenenr in
the immediate neighbourhood of both
pkces. (See Bte. 30.)
(/) Boltan Priory and the Wharf e
are sometimes visited from Harrogate.
The drive (16 m..\ across what is
called the " Forest JMLoor " is a some-
what dreai^ one, but commands
some fine views. The tourist, how-
ever, will thus get but a short day at
Bolton, which is more easily reached
from Ilkley or Skipton. (See Rte.
30.)
(a) For Ripley (4 m., open on
Friday) and Brimham Crags (11 m.)
see Rte. 21.
(h) Hack/alU 7 m. from Ripon, is
well worth a day's excursion (Rte. 22).
For this a carriage may be hired at
Ripon.
(t) York Minster and St. Mary's
Abbey, 22 m. rail.
(J) Aldborough and Boroughbridge
Roman remains, 10 m. (Rte. 19). By
railway.
Leeds (Rte. 28) and KirktiaU Abbey
(Rte. 29) are accessible by rly. in less
than 1 hour.
The Rly. from Harrogate to Lkedb
JvNCT. Stat, is describe in Rte. 29.
ROUTE 21.
HARROGATE TO PATELEY BRIDGE-
[BRIMHAM CRAGS] NIDDEROALE.
(Nidd VaUey (N,E.) Rly., Pateley
Branch; 14 m. 40 minutes* transit:
4 trains daily each way.)
The rly. follows the main line to
Ripon for 2 m., until after crossing
the Nidd by a viaduct it turns W.,
and reaches
3f m. Ripley Stat The. village
lies about i m. rt. The Church and ^e
Gardens of Ripley Castle are here
the points of interest. In the village
is a Perp. Gothic Town-hall, with
the inscription "Hotel de ViUe,
1854." It was built as a memorial
of Sir W. Amcotts Ingilby by his
widow.
Ripley Church is Dec. with some
later additions. It w^as restored in
1862, and the eeneral effect is fine and
solemn. At Sie E. end of the nave
are the good effigies of Sir Thomas
Ingilby (one of the Justices of the
Court of Common Pleas temp. Edw.
ni.) and his wife Catherine. In
niches round the altar -tomb arc
small figures of their children, whose
costumes deserve notice. A chantry,
with 17th and 18th cent, monoincnte
Baute 31. — Bijjley Oastle—Bnmham Crags.
269
of Ingilbys, is on the N. side of the
chiincel. The tower bears the date
1567 on the exterior of its staircase
turret, but the main tower may be
earlier than the rest of the ch. In
the churchjard are some remarkable
tomb-slabs, one of which bears what
hxjks like a Roman sacrificial vessel.
There is also (what is very unusual)
the stump of a cross, with 8 hollows
fur kneeling round the base. Before
the year 1300 the parish ch. of Ripley
is said to have stood at a place called
Kirk Sink, near the stat. The
gruund was ^dermined by the river,
and the ch. was destroyed. No monu-
mental stones have been found at
Kirk Sink later than that period.
Ripley Castle (Sir Wm. Ingilby)
has been the seat of the Ingilbys
for at least 500 years: and their
"Ftar of five rays" is conspicuous
here and in the ch. The castle was
buUt by Sir Wm. Ingilby in the
rt'ign of Philip and Mary, and con-
Uiins some valuable family records
and MSS., several of which were
brought from Fountains Abbey.
It is not shown. The gardens alone
are open on Fridays, and are worth
a visit.
Cromwell passed the night before
Marston Moor at Ripley Castle. Sir
William Ingilby was absent, and his
wife receiv^ the great Puritan with
a pair of pistols stuck in her belt,
and watched him carefully through
the night, which both spent in the
great hall. When he left on the
following morning, she told him that
he would have paid for any ill-conduct
vith his life.
From Ripley the line ascends the
valley of the Nidd. Passing
6} m. Birdwith Stat. (1. is seen
the modem ch. of Wreaks; and on
^he crest of the hill GwarcHffe Hall -
John Greenwood, Esq.), and
9 m. Darley Stat, we reach
lOJ m. Dacre Banks Stat. Dacre
Banks is a small manufacturing
village, chiefly noticeable for the
fact that tow was first in England
spun here by machinery, al>out 1795.
The machine for spinning it, the
"Tow Card," was invented by
Charles Gill, a self-taught mechanic,
bom in the village.
This is the most convenient point
from which to visit Brimham Crags.
As there is but one carriage at the
Royal Oak, it should be ordered the
day before by those who require it for
visiting the rocks (Brimham is the
"high dwelling." Brim is still a
local term for a high place exposed to
weather. — W. Grainge. It is used in
other, but cognate senses : thus in the
ballad of the 'Felon Sowe,' "She
was hrim as any boare" — meaning
fierce, set on edge, and so the " brim '
of a vessel or cup), which are situated
about 2 m. N. The road gradually
ascends till it reaches the high
ground (990 ft. above the sea),
over which the rocks are scattered.
This is open common, about 60 acres
in extent. Over it, forming a laby-
rinth threaded by winding paths, are
groups of shattered rocl^, assuming
mc most fantastic forms that can l^
imagined, rising not merely in walls,
pillars, and obelisks, but in shapes
which more or less resemble the most
varied objects, animate and inanimate.
Upon the strength of these fancied
likenesses, names not inappropriate
have been given to different masses,
such as the Oyster, the Baboon^s
Head, the Pulpit, the Frog, the Yoke
of Oxen, and so on. Not far from the
public-house are 4 rocking - stones,
E laced close together, Each of these
uge masses, many tons in weight,
is so nicely poised as to be movable
by the application of the shoulder, or
by standDng upon it and oscillating
the body. One of the rocks is sup-
ported on a stone table by a small
foot or pedestal like a toadstool.
Many of tiie formB remind one of
270
Boute 21. — Brimham Crags.
S'gantic chess-men, and appear as
ongh turned in a lathe. Of this
class the most stupendous is the JioZ,
whose vast swelling hulk rests upon a
basis not more thim 2 feet diameter.
Near it is one called the Xa7n5, from
its resemblance to an animal reclining.
Where the rock remains in beds or
strata it is fissured and cleft down
from top to bottom, with narrow
cracks and passages. Sometimes a
pinnacle of rock has fallen from the
top and been caught in the fissure,
where it remains suspended. One
of the most curious spots is the
Druid's Cave, where there is barely
space to pass through a crevice in
the rock, which is perforated with
openings like windows, admitting
views of the surrounding country.
Around the brow of the hill rise
abrupt precipices overhanging the
valley and commanding views of
Fellbeckdole (recently reclaimed),
and Nidderdflle — a fine perspective.
Another huge mass, called Cannon
Book, is perforated with holes, one
of which is 30 ft. long, and not a
foot in diameter. Perhaps the best
general view of the whole scene is
to be obtained from the platform
adjoining the Great Rocking Stone.
Much speculation has been thrown
away on the Brimham Crags, and, as
in many similar scenes, the Druids
have been called in to account for the
rocking-stones and the mysterious
perforations. But all here is the
nandiwork of nature ; and there is no
reason for supposing that any human
skill has been employed. The rocks
are in fact only the remains of a vast
continuous bed of the millstone grit,
which covered the moor, and was
broken up at some unknown period,
and worn away by ice and currents
of water, but which has subsequently
been consumed and corroded in the
course of ages, by the more sradnal
effects of uiQ atmosphere; ^e rain
and frost acting on the softer parts of
the stone and wearing it away. In
proof of this, it is only necessary to
take up a handful of the soil of tbe
moor, which will be found to be
merely sand, the disintegrated da-
terials of the rocks. Prof essor Phillips,
in his * Geology of Yorkshire,' ob-
serves, "The wasting power of the
atmosphere is veiy conspicuous in
these rocks ; searching out their secret
lamination ; working perpendicular
furrows and horizontu cavities; wear-
ing away the bases, and thus bringing
slow but sure destruction on the
whole of the exposed masses. Those
that remain of the rocks of Brimham
are but perishing memorials of what
have been destroyed."
A small public-house has been
built ;here for the convenieiice (or
annoyance) of tourists, who are
charged Is. each by its keeper ** for
seeing the rocks," and for the inflic-
tion of a guide. The views from
this remarkable spot, over the plain
of York, and toward the wild country
E. and S.E., will alone repay a visit.
But the whole scene is more
strangely fantastic (and it becomes
especially striking if visited at dusk,
or under a gloomy sky^ than any
that can be found on uiis side the
Saxon SwitzerLmd. "It is difficult
to conceive circumstances of inani-
mate nature more affecting to the
contemplative mind than the strange
forms and unaccountable combina-
tions of these gigantic masses.** —
Phillips, There are masses of grit-
stone in a similar state of disin-
tegration at Plumpton, at Great Alm@
Cliff, and elsewhere ; but none so im-
portant, as these.
Brimham was inven by Boffor de
Mowbray (temp. fien. II.) to Foun-
tains Abbey. Brimham HaU, 1 m.
S. of the rocks, occupies the site of
the monastic grange. It is now a
farm-house. Fragments of inscrip-
tions have been built up in the
walls.
Beyond the Dacre Banks Stat the
Boute 2l.—Pateley Bridge.
271
scenery becomes more picturesque.
Wooded slopes rise rt. toward Brim-
ham. The line crosses the river,
and passes Glcutahauee MtU (flax-
spinning), belonging to Messrs.
Metcalfe. 1. are tiie wood and rocks
of Guy's Cliffe. CasOettead (G. Met-
calfe, Esq.), and Betoerley HaU (J.
Yorke, Esq.), are seen on the same
side ; and tiie rly reaches
14 m. Pauley Bridge Stat. (Inns :
the King's Arms ; the Crown. Convey-
ances may be had at either, but the
tourist should be on his guard against
a disposition to bring the carriages
home too late for the last train,
thus obliging visitors from Harro-
gate and el^where to remain all
night at Pateley Bridge. P<Ueley is
perhaps " the badger's field." Pate is
still local for a badger). This is
a long street of neat houses, itself
without interest. But Pateley Bridge
is an excellent centre from which to
explore Nidderdale and the wild
country towards the Wharfe. Brim-
ham Crags are easily accessible, and
close to the town is Bewerley, with
Bavensgill and Guys Cliffe — ^^'ell
worth a visit. Nidderdale (there is
no occasion for going to the Teu-
tonic " nieder thai " for its etymology,
it is simply " the dale of the Nidd ^')
stretches upwards for 12 or 14 m.
from Pateley. It contains some pic-
turesque scenery, which becomes
grand and impressive in its upper
part, where the " fingers" of the
dale spread out on the slopes of the
Whemside. A day may well be
given to its exploration. In an
opposite direction (on the road to
Skipton), the lead-mines of Greenhow,
and the Stamp Cross Caverns, de-
sen-e a visit, (The adventurous pe-
destrian may cross Whernside from
Pateley Bridge, or descend upon
Skipton: see post). Nidderdale, in
the portion we nave already traversed,
from Dacre Banks, and above
Pateley, is rich in building-stone
(grit, slate, and flags) and, high up.
contains inexhaustible beds of moun-
tain limestone — an excellent grey
marble. Lead and ironstone have
been worked here from time imme-
morial ; and there is coal in some parts.
In the lower part of the dale are some
linen factories.
The view from the ch.-yard of the
Old Church, now a ruin, 1^ m. E. of
the town, is worth notice. The ch.
was late E. Eng., and was built by
either the Abp. of York, lord of the
manor in which it is situated, or by
the Chapter of Ripon, in which parish
Pateley is included.
The grounds of BewerUy (John
Yorke, Esq., whose family has pos-
sessed lands in Nidderdale since the
middle of the 16th cent), which in-
clude Bavensgill and part of Guy's
Cliffe, are open on Tuesdays and
Thursdays (6d. for each person is
charged; inquiry should be made at
Pateley Bridge for the person who has
the sjde of the tickets). Bewerley
occupies the site of a grange built by
the Cistercians of Fountains; and
behind the house the small monastic
chapel remains perfect (but used as
a tool-house). The motto (" Soli Deo
honor et gloria ") and initials of Mar-
maduke Huby, Abbot of Fountains
(1494-1526), are to be seen on
the walls. The gardener's house,
S.E. of the mansion, is said to have
been (but ? ) the priest's house. In
one of the upper rooms is a richly
ornamented ceiling. The voaiUts to
which visitors are admitted wind up
the Fishpond wood, and Ravensgill,
a narrow and very picturesque glen,
through which the Ravens Beck
foams and tumbles, until at the top of
the gill the brook is crossed, and less
trimly-kept paths lead out upon Guy's
Cliffe. From the heath above, called
NaugJU Moor (marked by a rock
called the QrocodUe), there is a very
fine view of Nidderdale, from the hil&
at the source of the Nidd to Bnmham
Crags. Immediately below (S.) is a
272
Boute 21,—Nidderdale,
hollow called the Troughy through
which the road to Otlej passes. Oppo-
site, a mock ruin marks the top of
Guj^s Cliffe. All along the edge of
the cliff (1000 ft. above the sea) a
prospect is obtained extending to York
Minster (E.), and to Eston ^b at the
mouth of the Tees (N.). The cliff
itself is broken about midwaj by an
opening called the ** Three Gkips."
'Die scene here is wild and striking.
Enormous masses of gritstone, covert
with moss and lichen, lie scattered in
all. directions ; and trees spring from
every fissure of the rocks. At the
foot of the cliff is a small piece
of water called Guy^s Cliffe Tarn.
The house of CasUestead, seen
below, stands in the midst of a
Roman (?) camp (it was rectangular),
which here guarded the entrance of
the valley.
A good road, following the course
of the river, winds up Nidderdale
from Pateley Bridge to
7 m. Lofthouse. As high as this
the scenery is wild and picturesque
Narrow wooded " gills," each with its
own streamlet, open on either side into
the main valley ; and the dwellings
throughout Nidderdale are alm(»t
always placed at the junction of one
of these "becks " with the Nidd.
Riddingsgill, about i m. from Gow-
thwaite Hall, is perhaps the most
beautiful, but the artist may find
work for his pencil in all. The chief
place to be noted in this part of the
dale is Gowthuoaite Hail, at the open-
ing of Burngill (3J m. from Pateley),
an old seat of the Yorkes, dating
from the 17th cent. (It is now occu-
pied by three farmers, but is un-
touched outside.) In it is a large
upper hall in which, says tradition,
a masque was acted by the Yorkes
and their servants, who personated
Catholics and Protestants — the former
driving off the others into the " great
parlour *' adjoining- The Star Cham-
ber is said to have regarded this
as an insult on the established reli-
gion, aud Yorke of Gowthwaite was
so severely fined, that he was obliged
to sell much of his property. Eugene
Aram kept a school for a diort time in
one of the rooms in this hovise. His
birthplace, Mamagill, higher up the
valley, is another point of interest,
although the cott-age in which Anin
(the son of a labourer) was bom, in
1704, has been pulled down. From
this place he went with his father to
Skelton, near Boroughbridge, and
thence, when about 16, to Londoo, as
bookkeeper to a merchant. He re-
turned to Nidderdale, married there
in 1781, and in 1734 removed to
Enaresborough, where the murder
was committed. Lofihouse was given
by Roger de Mowbrav to the monks
of Byland, the ruins of whose £. Eng.
chapel remain here.
In the lower part of JBlayshaw GiU,
opening at Lofthouse mto the Nidd
valley, ia a rocky and wooded glen,
with a lead-mine and marble quarries
near the opening.
Beyond Lofthouse the road con-
tinues to Middlesmoor (where is a
small but comfortable Inn, the last
place where refreshment can fae pro-
cured before crossing Whemsidel
and thence proceeds (but henceforth
it is indifferent enough) over the
hills. At Lofthouse, however, the
Nidd bends N.E., and an equally im-
portant stream (tibe Stean Bieck) joins
it from the 8. W. Both deserve ex-
ploration, though few besides hardy
pedestrians will be able to accomplish
the work satisfactorily.
On the Nidd, about 2 m. above
Lofthouse Lb Goydon or Gooden Pot,
the entrance to a cavern in the moun-
tain limestone, which (except in floods)
swallows nearlv all the waters of the
river. The Nidd reappears above i m.
below Lofthouse, nearly opposite
the parsoni^e. The cavern is long,
flexuous, and narrow, and is in places
Boute ^l.—Nidderdale.
273
filled by the river. ^ In almost all
parts of the cave the sound of its waters
may be heard as they rush along the
secret channels of tne limestone.'' —
Phillips. There is another swallow
called Manchester HoUj somewhat
higher up the river than Goydon Pot.
The nearly dry channel between it
and Lofthouse is enclosed in rocks of
limestone, and woods overhung by
lofty gritstone hills. Trees become
scarcer, and the scenery more and
more savage, as the upper part of the
valley is reached. Angram, the last
farmstead in the dale, is *< fenced iii by
bleak heathy mountains ; on the W.
Great Whemside ; N. Little Whem-
side; S. Argyll Pike; and hills
ranging from 1600 to 1700 ft. in alti-
tude.'*— Orainge, Beyond Angram
cultivation does not extend. The
Nidd rises on the E. side of Great
Whemside, 2000 ft. above the sea.
The scenery where the river rises
at the head of the dale is grand and
wild, but it lies out of the beat and
reach of ordinary tourists. From
Angram, however, it is possible to cross
between Great Whemside (2310 ft. :
see Rte. 31) and Buckden Pikes
(2302 ft.) by a pass called the <* Lime-
stone pass, and thence to descend
apon Kettlewell in Wharf edale. " The
views from this pass, and from the
sides of Buckden rike down the rocky
length of Wharfedale, are superb." —
Philips. But this will be found a
long and laborious pilgrimage, and
should not be undertuen without
careful inquiry at Angram as to the
direction of Uie ** no rMd."* (Listead
of following the course of the Nidd,
the pedestrian who designs to under-
take this adventure should take the
road from Lofthouse to Middlesmoor,
and thence to Angram. Middlesmoor
(where is an Inn — ante) is a small
tillage, with a chapel« erected in
1865 (on the site of one dating from
U84), the view from which down
the dale is fine. xV very rough road
leads from Middlesmoor,' passing into
^Yorkshire.']
Coverdale, whence the tourist may
turn 1. toward KettleweU in Wharfe-
dale, or rt., descending Coverdale into
Wensleydale (see Bte. 24) ; but this
is not the pedestrian's route noticed
above.)
The scenery on the How Stean Beckf
which joins the Nidd a little below
Lofthouse, is finer than that on the
main stream. For about 1 m. of its
lower course (the road from Loft-
house to Stean leads to this part)
it passes through a narrow cleft in
the mountain lunestone, 70 ft. deep,
the sides of which are hung wiui
mosses, ferns, and lichens, and near
the top overshadowed by hanging
wood. Streams fall into it St)m
either side. The chasm is not seen
until you are close to the edge of it.
On the S. side, in a meadow about
200 yards from the chasm, is the
mouth of EqUn's Hole, a stalactite
cayem of unknown length. On the
upper part of the Stean Beck are
one or two small waterfalls, the most
picturesque of which is Park Fos$,
close to the open moor.
On Blayshaw Benls, below Stean,
and near the junction of the Stean
Beck with the Nidd, is a line of pits
nearly 1 m. long, which has been
thought to mark tiie site of a British
village. (Compare those on the Qeve-
Lmd Moors, Btes. 14 and 15.) There
is a square enclosure at one end, and
large neaps of iron refuse adjoining
(ironstone is abundant here). Blay-
shaw Crags, above the pits, are
1100 ft. above the sea.
The Lead Mines at Greenhow Hill,
and the Staladile Caverns at Stump
Oross^ may also be visited from Pate-
ley. Both lie on the road from Pate-
ley Bridge to Skipton, the first about
3 m., the second 4 from Pateley. As
far as Greenhow Hill the road bears
suflRcient evidence of the neighbour-
hood oi the mineb. Miners' houses
T
274
Boule 22. — Harrogaie to NorthaUerUm.
and villages are scattered about : on the
side of the Foster Beck are the lead-
smelting works of John Yorke, Esq., of
Bewerley ; and " Baal hills," mounds
of refuse left from early lead-smelt-
ings, are frequent, (liie word has
been absurdly connected with the
god Baal. It is simply the A.-S.
«*ball," a projecting mound or rock,
still used in Devonshire, and with
congeners in all the Teutonic and
Scandinavian languages. <*Men or
animals poisoned by tiie fumes of
lead are said to be Baaloned." —
QrcUnqe. The rough surface of a
Cornish mine is cdled the "bal.")
The mines themselves, worked by
different companies, are in the Green-
how Hill range (1400 ft.\ where
metalliferous veins cross the lime-
stone. Those at Cockhm (} m. N.
of C^eenhow village) are easiest of
access. 8 or 9 miles of " horse level,"
or underground tramways travelled
by horses, here pierce the rock, and
the smelting houses are close at hand.
The mines of Greenhow have been
worked from time immemorial. Two
pigs of lead, bearine Roman inscrip-
tions (Imp. CsBS. Vomitiano, Aug.
Co8. VII. Brig. — one is now in Rip-
ley Castle, the other in the Brit,
Mus.), were found at Hayshaw Bank,
on the Nidd, in 1735 ; and the monks
of Fountains were not less active
here. A small ch. was built at Green-
how Hill in 1858.
1 m. beyond Greenhow Hill are the
Stump Cross CavemSy discovered in
1860 by miners searching for lead.
They are rich in stalactites, with
a floor of stalagmite, and have been
explored for about 1100 yards. The
" Stump Cross " marked the ancient
limit of Enaresborough forest.
(Prom Greenhow the pedestrian
may pass down the " Trowler's Gill " —
very picturesque and romantic, with
steep rocky sides — ^into Wharfedale.
The "Gill" joins the Wharfe near
Barden Tower.)
ROUTE 22.
HARROGATE TO NORTHALLERTON,
BT RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY,
HACKFALU AKD TANFIELD-
(North-Easiem Badheay; 8 trauis
daily in 1 hr. 30 nUn.')
Between Harrogate and Ripon
there are stations at Starbeek (Rte.
NiddBridge\St8A. Here the line to
Pateley Bridge turns off L (Rte. 21).
Wormald Oreen Stat There is
nothing which calls for special notice
until
(11} m.) Bipon Stat, is reached.
The distance is l2-avelled by some of
the trains in 20 minutes.
(Inns: 2nd class; the Crown, in
the Market Place; the Black Bull:
Pop. in 1881, 7390). The Cathedral
towers are seen dominating the lower
buildines 1. as the train reaches the
stat., -miich is } m. from the dt}'.
(Omnibuses at each train.)
As one of the three ancient rdigiois
centres of Yorkshire (the two others
were York and Beverley), Ripon has
special attraction for the faistoricdl
antiquary ; and the existing cathedral,
BattU22.—Bip(m: Cathedral.
275
thoagh comparatively small, is full of
interest and architectm^l beauty. The
cathedral is the one object of interest
in Ripon ; but some pleasant excursions
may be made from hence, besides that
to Fovmtains Abbey.
Ripon (the "Inhiypum" of Bede)
occupies a point of land between the
junction of the Ure with the Laver
and the Skell. It first becomes dis-
tinctly mentioned after the establish-
ment here in €60 of a monastic house
dependent on that of Melrose. The
Scottish monks, however, did not
renmin here more than 2 or 3 years ;
and on their departure King Alchfrid
of Northnmbria gave the monastery
and the surrounding lands to the
famons Wilfrid, who had been his
instmctor. As Abbot of Bipon, Wil-
frid on his elevation to the see of
Kortfaumbria (York) erected a new
monasteiy here (not on the site of
the present cathedral), which was
built by workmen from Italy ** after
the Boman manner." When Wilfrid
was deprived of the Northumbrian
see by Abp. Theodore of Canterbury
in 678, the diocese was subdivided,
and sees were established at York,
Hexham, and Bipon ; of which place
Eadhead was appointed the first and
only bishop, the see being afterwards
merged in that of York. Wilfrid,
after his many struggles and wander-
ings, retired to the monastery he had
founded at Bipon. He died in 711,
at the Abbey of Onndle in North-
amptonshire, when on a journey;
but his body was brought back to
Bipon, and interred in his own church.
Amelstane is said to have bestowed
the •* manor ** of Bipon on the Abps.
of York. The manor belonged to Uie
Abps. of York from a period long
before the Conquest untu it passed
into the hands of the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners: in accordance with
whose report Bipon was re-erected
(1836) into an Bpiscopal see, and the
greater part of the West Biding was
placed under its jurisdiction.
Wilfrid's monasteiy was in ruins
at the period of the Conquest; and
before that tune, Odo, Abp. of Can-
terbury, is said to have conmnenced
a new church on the site of the pre-
sent Cathedral. This church was
served by a body of Augustinian
canons, who remained in possession
until the Dissolution of collegiate
churches, 1st Edw. VI.
Bipon was a favourite residence of
the Abps. of York until Abp. Walter
Gray, 1215-1255, built Bishopthorpe.
The town was much injured by the
Scots in 1319, when they remained
here 3 days, and made the inhabit-
ants pay a tax of 1000 marks. Dur-
ing the "Bising of the North" in
1569, the Earls of Northumberland
and Westmoreland mustered here,
and made their proclamation. Nor-
ton displayed his famous banner here,
and mass was sung in the great
church. This was in November. In
the following January the rebel con-
stables and serving-men of the Wert
Biding, and the townsmen of Bipon
who had favoured the Earls, were
executed here. In 1640 a conference
was held at Bipon between the Scottish
Lords and the English Commission-
ers. Parliamentary troops, under Sir
Thomas Mauleverer, were at Bipon in
1643. when th^ sacked the Minster ;
and in 1646 ^ing Charles, then a
prisoner, passed two nights here on
ms way to Holmby.
There is now little or no manufac-
ture in Bipon; but the town was
famous for its woollen cloth from a
very early period, and only ceased to
be 'so during the Wars of the Boses.
(It is not true, however, as is some-
times asserted, that the trade was
removed to Halifax in the 15th cent.,
since it can be proved that cloth-
making existed there long before.)
Leland when at Bipon, temp. Hen.
Vin., observed that "idelness waa
sore encresed in the town, and clothe
makyng almost decayed." It was
T2
S76
JSott/6 22.— JBtpow; Calhedtcd.
GROUND PLAN OF RIPON CATHEDRAL.
Ihen, and had been for centuries
previously "much celebrated for
Djenge of horses " and a street is
stUl called the "Horse Fair." At a
later period Bipon was famous for
its spurs. " * As true steel as Bipon
rowels', is said,** says Puller, " of
men of metal, trusty persons, faith-
ful in their employment." " A gilte
bowle and a pair of Rippon spurres "
were presented to King James I. on
his visit in 16X7 ; " which spurres cost
Vli., and were such a contentment to
his MjBfi^j as his Highness did wear
the same* the day followyng at his
departure.*'
A custom worth notice hero is the
sounding of the Major's horn— once
announcing the settmg of the watch,
but now a mere formality. Three
blasts are sounded nightly before the
Mayor's door at 9 o^ock, and one
afterwards at the Market Cross. The
horn itself is decorated with silver
badges, and with insignia of trading
companies belonging to the town.
The visitor will at once find his
way from the Market-Place to the
Cathedralj the beautiful west front
of which opens before him as he
descends Kirkgate. Mr. Walbran
has proved that the existing build-
ing wns coimncuccd bv Abp. Roger
(1154-1181), who rebuilt the choir
R^ule2±—B^pon: Oaihedrdl.
277
of York (see Rte. 1) and the Abp/s
palace there, of which some portions
remain. Abp. Walter Gray (1215-
1255) prohabV added the west front
Toward the end of the 19th cent.
(1288-1300) the eastern portion of
the choir was rebuilt, the work of
Abp. Boger beinff replaced by two
I>ec. bays. The Scots set fire to the
ch. in 1319; and some restoration
(for the most part, probably, of wood-
work) was required after uieir foray.
About the year 1454 the central
tower had become greatly ruined,
and part of it had fallen. It was
then rebuilt; and during the first
years of the 16th cent. Abp. Roger's
nave was removed, and Perp. work
substituted for it In 1604 King
James I. erected Bipon into a col-
legiate church, with a dean and 6
prebendaries. The wooden spire above
the central tower had been struck by
lighting in 1593; and in 1660 it was
blown down, demolishing in its fall
the roof of the choir. This was re-
stored ; and the spires of the western
towen were then removed in fear of
a similar calamity. In 1862 the
building was placed in the hands of
^V Q. G, SooU for a complete restora-
tion, which has been effected with the
utmost skill, and with the strictest
preservation of every antique frag-
ment, and the catheciral was formaUy
reopened in Oct, 1872. The cost of
the restoration was about 40,000t,
of which the Eccles. Commissioners
contribnted 15.0002. The rest was
principally raised in the diocese.
In accordance with these dates, the
Kinster exhibits —
Tntmt. Wwk (Abp. Roger's) -1164-1 181.
— Tnn«ept8; 3 bays, N. side of choir:
N. vail of choir ; portloiu of nave piers
«^}olnlDg the W. and central towers.
Satii^ Bngli9K^\2\ 6-1256.— W. ftont and
Mr. towers ; Tanlting and die windows
ofebapCer-honse.
Decomttd — 1288-1300. — 3 eastemmoat
bays of choir.
/V>3>ej»d<«i/ar— 1460-1620.— «J. and E.
f Idea of central tower ; E. side of main
wall of 8. transept ; choir screen ; 2 bays,
^ tide of choir; i^^ve,
Abp. Boger^s church was, however,
constructed on the site of one far
more ancient, founded in all proba-
bility (besides that of the monasteo-,
which was on another site) by St.
Wilfrid. Of this church a most
remarkable relic exists in the crypt
called *< St Wilfrid's Needle," entered
from the nave. This is probably of
St Wilfrid's time (664-709). Another
portion of the earlier ch. is the Nor-
man S. wall and E. apse of the
Chapter-house — ^possibly due to Tho-
mas of Bayeux, tne first Abp. of York
after the Conquest
The West Front, Abp. Gray's addi-
tion to Abp. Roger's church, is a sin-
rrly pore and beautiful example of
Eng. It consists of a central
gable, 103 ft high, between flftwlring
towers of somewhat greater elevation.
The towers are divided from tiie cen-
tral compartment by flat unstaged
buttresses, rising finite to the top.
Although they project but slightly,
these buttresses give considerable re-
lief to the front, the whole of whidi
is on the same plane. In the central
compartment are 3 portals, receding
in 5 orders, with double shafts (one
behind the other — an arrangement
occurring at Lincoln, and in the
Galilee porch at Ely), much doc-
tooth ornament and gabled pedi-
ments. Above are 5 pointed windows,
of equal height. Above, again, are
5 lancets; that in the centre, from
which the othera decline, being the
highest; and in the gable are 8
narrow lights. Much doff-tooth orna-
ment occurs in the mouldings of all
these windows; but the caps of the
lower tier are foliated, those of the
upper plain ; and generally it should
be remarked that the ornamentation
becomes less from the portals up-
ward. The towers have buttresses at
each angle. Each tower is divided
by string-courses into four equal
stages, the lowest of which has a
blind arcade, while the 3 others
have each 3 lancets, the central
278
areh alone in each being pierced
for light. All huTe much dog-
tooth. These towers were origin-
ally capped hj lofty octagonal spires.
ijeaving the rest of the exterior for
the present, we enter the Minster
by the western door. Although the
Tiew here must not be compared with
that afforded by the space and dignity
of larger churches, it is nevertheless
one of great interest, owing mainly
to the nnnsual width (87 ft.) of the
nave ; for, eastward, the tall and
massive organ-screen shuts out the
choir, the E. window of which is seen
above it.
The bays opening into the towers
are E. Eng., of the same date as the
whole W. front; but it is evident
that Abp. Roger*s work (seen in the
first bay of Sie nave beyond them,
and in the transepts) materially in-
fluenced their composition.
The double tier of lights in the W.
front is set off by clustered shafts,
with much dog-tooth in the hollows.
Seen from within, this front has a
simple dignity effective in the highest
degree.
The Nave of Abp. Roger's ch. had
no aisles ; and the piers of the exist-
ing nave rest on its foundations. The
E. E. western towers (Roger's nave
seems to have had none) projected
beyond it, and the present nave-aisles
have been obtained by a line drawn
from the outer angle of the towers to
the central wall-pier of the transepts.
The first bay beyond the towers pre-
serves for us the character of Abp.
Roger's nave.
The present nave of 5 bays was
begun about 1502, and is unusually
light and wide; with a character
which gives the whole an appearance
of much earlier date than is really the
case. The width of the central pas-
sage was determined by the width of
Aop. Roger's entire nave. The width
of the nave and aisles (87 ft.) is
greater than that of any other Eng-
Sah nave, York, Chichester (which
B(mte22.—Bipan: Ca&edrat.
has 5 aisles), Winchester, and St
Paul's excepted. Very grac^nl mm
support a lofty clerestofy. The
brackets of the vaulting shafts ve
carried by angels bearing shields.
An interior oak roof has, under Sir
G. G. Scott's anspices, taken the
place of a flat celling, and has been
constructed without disturlnng tiw
exterior roof, although there are not
6 inches of space between the two,
and their beams in some places touch
one another. The bosses of the new
roof are richly carved, and display
the emblems of the Evangelists, and
others referring to the Holy Sacra-
ments.
The windows of the S. aisle differ
slightly from those of the N. The
aisles were intended to be groined,
and the springers remain. The
towers, which now form their W.
ends, projected, it must be remem-
bered, oeyond the earlier nave This
accounts for the windows on this side,
and the various mouldings. • At the
E. end of the nave are some remains
of Abp. Roger's nave, which will best
be explained in connection with the
central tower.
There are few Monum«nt$ of in-
terest in the nave (or, indeed, in the
cathedral). In the S. aisle is a re-
markable altar-tomb, covered with a
dab of grey marble, on which, in
low relief, is the flgure of a man in
prayer, and, near hun, that of a lioD,
among trees. There is a defaced in-
scription below ; but nothing is known
of the history of the monnment,
beyond a tradition that it is that of
an Irish prince who died at Ripon on
his return from Palestine, bringing
with him a lion which had followed
him like a dog. In the westernmost
bay of the same aisle is the Perp.
Font; and by its side that which
was provided when Abp. Roger
erected the nave. It is circ. and
massive, without stem or base, and is
ornamented by an arcade with round
trefoiled heads^
l{ottte22.— Etpon: Cathedral.
279
Some 14th eeat. stained glass, of
great ezcellence, remains in the
weetemiuost window of the S. aisle,
removed from the E. window of the
choir in 1854. These are roundels,
representing St. Peter, St. Paul, and
St. Andrew, and some other saints
not eaailj distinguished. Other glass
has been worked up with them, but
the roondels alone deserve notice.
There is some modem glass (of vari-
ous <iaa]it7) in other windows of the
The OTpt is entered from the
S.£. bay of the nave ; but the whole
of the upper church maj first be
examined. The oeatral tower (part
of Abp. Boger*8 work) had become
Toinoas in 1459 ; when the S. and E.
sides were rebuilt as we now see
them. Tbjd onsinal arrangement
remains N. and wT; but these arches,
if the chanter funds had permitted,
would probably have been altered
like the others. At present the
great mass of Perp. masonry at
the S.W. angle projects awkwardly
enough. It will be seen that the
original arches were higher N. and
S. than £. and W. The arrange-
ment above the circ. arches should
he noticed (the small openings in
the wall between the pomted lights
of the derestory are no part of the
orig^al design, but were produced by
wfming up spaces probably in the
17th cent., wiUi an idea of strengthen-
ing the tower, which was severely
rent on the N. side). The tower has
been thoroughly repaired, and has
been enrich^ bv a painted ceiling.
On both sides of the nave, adjoining
the W. arch, portions of Abp. Boger^
nave remain ; on the N. side part of
the vaulting shaft, and one bay of
the tiiforium; on the S., the tri-
forium remains, but closed up. These
portions resemble the more complete
bay at the W. end. Against the wall
(N.) is the monument, with bust, of
Hugh Bipley, last "Wakeman" (as
the chief officer of the town was
anciently called, from his rule of the
" wake "^ or watch) and first " Mayor "
of Bipon, died 1637. The verses
should be read, (hi the inner side of
the N.W. tower arch a figure of
James I. (in whose time Bipon was
incorporated, and the Wakeman be-
came a Mayor) is placed on a semi-
detached shaft.
The Transepts retain Abp. Boger*s
work more entirely than any ^er
portion of the ch. The north tran-
sept especially is almost unchanged.
Each transept has an eastern aisle of
two bays.
The N. transept had originally on
itsW. side 2 round-headed windows
in its lower story, one of which
remains. The other was cut through
when the Perp. arch was form^,
oi>ening from the nave aisle. The
trif orium has 2 broad arches in each
bay, with a central detached shaft.
The clerestory above has 3 arches in
each bay ; tliat in the centre round,
the other pointed. Triple vaulting
shafts, with cushioned caps ^modern,
and grafted on the old shafts), divide
the Dja.ys. The arrangement of the
N. end of the transept is the same,
except that the bays are more com-
pressed.
The transept ceilings are of carved
oak. Outside the aisle is the much-
shattered monument, with effigies, of
Sir Thomas Markenfield and wife
(died 1497). The chantry of St.
Andrew, within the aisle, was the
burial-place of the Markenfields (see
postf " Exc. from Bipon,'' for Marken-
field). In it is the altar-tomb of Sir
Thos. Markenfield (living temp. Bich.
n., and aged 39 when he was a wit-
ness in the Scrope and Grosvenor
case), whose armour deserves notice.
The sword-sheath is richly decorated.
His livery collar represents the pales
of a park, and the badge suspended
from it is a couchant stag, surrounded
by similar pales. Close by is the
monument of Sir Edward Blackett
of Newbv (died 1718), who reposes
thereon m a Baznillies wig and laced
280
Route 22. — Rijwn : CaihedraL
waistcoat, attended bv two wives.
The helmets, gloves, and achievements
here were used at his funeral.
The south transept has precisely
resembled the north ; but the eastern
aisle was altered at the same time
(probably) as the central tower. Abp.
Koger's shafts remain against the £.
waU; but the entire front of the
aisle (including l^iforium and clere-
story) is Peip.; although the original
vaulting-shans remain between the
bays, and the Perp. work is grouped
with them.
Against the S, wall of the transept
is a copy of the Choragic Monument
of Lysicrates at Athens, a memorial
of William WeddeU, of Newby. The
bust is by Nollekens,
In the aisle is a tablet for Sir
John Mallorie, of Studley, who de-
fended Skipton Castle for Charles I.,
and another for the Aislabies, also
lords of Studley. At theN.E. comer
of the aisle, steps lead upward to the
library (see jM>8i).
The Choir Screen, Perp., like the
piers between which it rises, was, like
them, completed soon after 1459. It
is a mass of rich tabernacle work,
19 ft. high, with 4 niches on either
side of the door, and a range of
smaller ones above. Over the door
is a small figure of the Saviour in
glory, with censing angels. The organ,
by Booth, of Leeds (but retaining ^e
choir organ of Father Schmidt, built
on the spot m 1695), was erected in
1838.
Through the screen we enter the
Choir, which, including (as it now
does) the Presbytery, contains work
of 3 distinct periods, Trans. -Norm.,
Dec., and Perp. The 3 westernmost
bays on the N. side, and on the S.
the second pier from the £., are
Abp. Boger^s work; and the exist-
ing choir with its aisles is built
(probably^ on the foundations of his
cnoir. The 3 bays opposite (S. side)
are Perp., built aner the ruin of the
pentra) tower in 1459; t^nd the ^
eastern bays, or presbytery, are Dec.
(1288-1800). Abp. Bqgers work
resembles that in the transepts ; but
the fine vaulting-should be especiaUv j
noticed. The triforium is glazed like
the clerestory; but this change took
place in the Perp. period. The arches
of the triforium opened originally
into the roof space above the vaulting
of the aisles. This roof was lowered
after 1459, and the triforium opening
filled with glass. '^Uninfonned of
this fact the student has often gazed
in astonishment on the 2 pointed
lights of the round-headed arch,
divided by a slender column, and
ornamented with those sharp cusps,
which are, in reality, shown nrom the
more modem mullion behind.** — J. H
Walbran,
The decorated work of tiie 2
eastern bays has a certain retrospec-
tive character, designed to assimilate
it in some degree with the Trans.*
Norm. W. of it. The triforium
openings (now lights) are enclosed,
like Abp. Boger*s, in a circ. areh.
The clerestory passage has a double
plane of tracery. On the S. side,
the junction of the Dec. and Perp.
is marked by 2 monastic heads at
the spring of the main arch. Oppo-
site, N., are two smaller heads. The
leafage of the Dec. portion ^executed
at the time when natural foliage was
copied with the utmost care and
accuracy) is very beautiful, and de-
serves special notice. The great E.
window, of 7 lights, is unusuallv
fine. At the an^es are shafts with
capitals of leafage ; brackets support
an inner rib, ranning round the
soffete. The glass, which now fills
the window, is by Wailes of New-
castle, and was placed there in com-
memoration of the erection of the see
of Ripon in 1886. It cost 10002., but
is not good.
The 8 westernmost bays on the S.
side of the choir are Perp.; but the
triforium still retains the circ arch.
The wall space below is panelled.
Route 22. — Rtpon : Cathedral,
281
The roof of the choir is modem : it
is a wooden vaulting of the same
pitch, phin, and section of ribs as the
Dec. Tanlt, which had been of wood.
Some of the wooden bosses or centre
knobs which had been preserved after
the fall of the spire in 1660, when
the original Dec. vault was broken
through, were replaced in the groining
of 1829, and, after proper cleaning,
are fixed in the present vault The
oak vanlting is relieved with patterns
in colour, and on the ribs are nlletB of
gilding. On the S. side of the altar
are 3 sedilia, late Perp. in character,
but showing small heads and details
worth attention.
The choir retains much of its
ancient wood-ioarh. That at the W.
end shows a good mass of tabernacle-
work, with angels bearing shields at
the terminations of the Tower cano-
pies. This is of the 15th cent., as are
the carved subsellia (for the most part
showing animals and leafage, with
some grotesques) throughout the stalls,
one of which bears the date 1489.
All this wood-work was carefully
restored, under the direction of Sir
G. G. Scott. An Episcopal throne,
erected in 1812, has been taken down ;
and the Bishop now occupies the
easternmost stall on the S. side, which
appears (from the sculpture of a mitre
on the back) to have been that ori-
ginally assigned to the Abp. of York.
The screen-work which encloses
the choir is of the 15th cent., and
of the usual Yorkshire tjpe, in
accordance with which the npper
part of the heading alone is nlled
with tracery.
The north ekoir aide follows the
architecture of the choir, having its
8 westernmost bays Trans. (Abp.
Koger*8), and the 2 eastern Dec.
The western bays have broad lancet
windows (more resembling E. French
than E. EIL2^), with Perp. tracery
inserted. (The windows are per-
haps altogether insertions of the Dec.
period.) The vaulting is quadripar-
tite. A Dec. window, with an arcade
below it, tenninates the aisle.
The iS7irtfw of SL Wilfrid rested,
it is supposed, in this easternmost
bay of the N. aisle. Leland, in his
Itinerary, asserts that the saints
"reliqui®" were buried **on the
nortii side of tiie Quiere," " sub arcu
prope mag altare."* On the other
nand, Odo Abp. of Canterbury, in
his preface to Frithgode's Metrical
Life of Wilfrid, asserts that on
visiting the old monastery here ho
found the grave of Wilfrid in a state
of utter neglect, and removed his
bones to Canterbury. It is certain,
on the one hand, that the canons of
Bipon asserted that they had pos-
session of St Wilfrid's relics, and
that pilgrimages were made to his
shrine here from an early period.
The banner of St Wilfrid, which
stood over his tomb, was, it will be
remembered, one of the three dis-
played at the battle of the Standard,
Me Bte. 16. On the other hand,
Gervase of Canterbury, writing after
the rebuilding of the cathedral there .
by William of Sens at the end of the
12th cent., asserts that the body of
St. Wilfrid of York reposed in the
eastern chapel of the catnedral, which
was burnt in 1174, and that it was
removed, with the relics of other
saints, into the new church. It would
seem most probable that the Can-
terbury story (supported by Abp.
Odo^s positive assertion) is the true
one; although the canons of Ripon
may have honestly believed that they
possessed then: patron's body. The
discordant assertions may be recon-
ciled in a certain degree by a state-
went of Eadmer, who, in his Life of
Wilfrid, written in the 12th cent,
after informing us that Wilfrids
body was removed to Canterbury by
Abp. Odo, says that, from respect to
the place which Wilfrid had loved
beyond all others in his lifetime, a
small portion of his remains was left
at Bipon, and deposited in a suitable
place.
282 B<mte22.—Bipon: Cathedral— St. WUfirUPa Needle.
The Bouth aisle resembles that
opposite. The windows of Abp.
Roger's portion are placed high in
the wall, on account of the Norm,
chapter-house and yestry, which abut
the aisle. They now look into the
Lady Loft (see post). Vaulting-
shafts with plain orackets, rise be-
tween the windows. In the bay
adjoining the vestry-door is a long,
square lavatory; and the piscina of
the chapel in the eastern, bay re-
mains. Staircases ascend into the
buttress turrets at the exterior angle
of both aisles (see post — Exterior).
The Chapter-house is entered from
the second Day of the S. aisle (count-
ing from the W.). This, with the
vestry eastward of it, was either, as
Mr. Walbran has suggested, the
aisle, or, as other archaBoIogists sup-
pose, the choir of a Norm, en.,
Duilt by Abp. Thomas of Bayeux
(1070-1100), after the devastation of
Yorkshire by the Conqueror in 1069.
There is no reason whatever for
assigning an earlier date to the
work. The rest of the ch. was most
likely destroyed by Abp. Roger, who
converted this remaining portion into
a chapter-house and sacristy for his
new minster. The vaulting and
2 central piers of the chapter-house
are E. Eng., of later date than Abp.
Roger's work. At the N.W. angle a
doorway opens to a flight of steps
leading to the crypt.
The Vestryt or sacristy, B. of the
chapter-house, is of the same cha-
racter. Foundations of the choir
buttresses (circ. 1288) project into
it on the N. side; but the Norm,
arcade is more evident here than in
the chapter-house. The E. end is
apsidal, with the base of the altar
remaining. On the S. side is a small
lateral apse, forming a room for
storing treasures of uie church. In
it is a piscina or lavatory.
Above both chapter-house and
vestry, and approached by steps
from the S. transept, is the Ladg
Loft, a chapel of Dec. date (cirr.
1330), whicn formed the ancient
Lady-chapel of the Minster, and
now serves as the chapter libraiy.
There are no books here calling for
special attention.
Returning to the nave, we enter,
by stairs at its N.E. angle, the ernrf,
called *''SL WUfriSs NeedUf m
many respects the most interesting
portion of the whole church. A long
and narrow passage leads to a cell,
cylindrically vaulted, 7 ft. 9 in. wide,
11 ft. 3 in. long, and 9 ft. 4 in. high;
in each wall are plain niches, with
semicirc. heads. One of these (W.)
has a deep basin in the base; and
others, apertures at the back, as if
for the smoke of a lamp. At the
N.E. angle is the passage called
St. Wilfrid's ^Needle, which is swd
by Camden to have been used as
an ordeal for women accused of
unchastity. If they could not pass
through it they were considered
guilty. At the W. end a doorway
opens into another passage; and
other cells may perhaps exist, al-
though they have yet to be dis-
covered. (The crypt itself is un-
touched; but whether the passages
were to any extent altered on the
construction of Abp. Roger's ch., or
at a later period, is not altogether
certain. The western portion of the
passage leading from the nave has
an early sepulchral stone in the
roof, proving that some change has
taken place there at any rate.)
The strongly marked Roman cha-
racter of this crypt will at once
strike the visitor. It has, indeed,
been regarded by some antiquaries
as a Roman sepulchre; but a crypt
of very similar character exists at
Hexham in Northumberland, beneath
the conventual ch., which Wilfrid
founded there; and it is therefore
reasonable to conclude that this is
of the same date, and that it uiarb
the site, not of Wilfrid's monastic
B(nae22.—Bipm: (MkeOrci.
eh. here, which, as it is known,
stood elsewhere, but of a second
ch., either founded bj him, or con-
structed by the same ** Roman**
workmen. It is therefore the most
perfect existing relic of the first age
of Christianity in Yorkshire, and as
such cannot but be regarded with
the utmost interest and veneration.
The ctypts, both here and at Hex-
ham, are popularlj known as " con-
fessionals ; out it is more probable
that they were used for the exhibi-
tion of relics at certain periods,
^* according to an ancient custom
still in use on the Continent; the
faithful descend by one staircase,
pass alofuff the narrow passage, look
throueh uie opening in the wall at
the r^cs, and then pass on, ascend-
ing by the other staircase."' — /. H.
Parker, They belong, however, to
a period so remote, and are con-
nected with local rituals and observ-
ances so little known to us, that it
is impossible to ascertain their ori-
ginal purpose with certainty. (An
excellent notice of the Ripon ciypt
by Mr. Walbran will be found m
the York vol. of the Archasol. In-
stitute, by the same writer ; and
another, on the ciypt of Hexham, in
his account of the fabric of that ch.
embodied in Baine^s ^ Priory of Hex-
ham,* vd. ii.) It is an miportant
fact, which has not been previously
noticed in describing or speculating
on the original purposes of these
crypts, that there is a '* needle ** or
voided niche at Hexham, as well as at
Bipon, and in the same position in
the N. wall; but in the former in-
stance it has not been enlarged on
the side toward the passage, as in the
latter case.
At the £. end of the ch. the
massive Dec. buttresses between the
choir and aisles form the most strik-
ing feature. The windows, with
their rich foliations, are very fine
examples of early Dec. The window
in the gable (above the £. window)
lights the space between the choir-
vaulting and the roof. In the pin-
nacle of the S.E. buttress is a
remarkable place of concealment, or
perhaps of imprisonment. (Every
religious house had its ^'latema,
or prison for refractory members.
Sometimes, as at Fountains (see
posQ, there were several of different
degrees of severity.) On getting to
the head of the stairs, which wind
up the buttress, no opening is seen ;
but when what appears to be the
roof is nushed against, a trap-door
opens, throuffh which the prisoner
might be thrust into his narrow
quarters.
In the vestry and chapter-house,
remark the Norm, string-course which
runs round between the Norm, work
and the Lady Loft. This latter is
distinguished by its square-headed
windows, the tracery of which is
formed by intersecting arches. Under
both the vestry and chanter-house is
a Crypt like them of Norm. date.
Owing to the fall of the ground, a
range of round-headed windows has
been obtained for the crypt, giving,
by the double tier of Norm, lights, a
peculiar character to the whole eleva-
tion. The western portion of the
crypt is walled off, and used for inter-
ment. The eastern, until 1866,
formed what was known as the bone-
house, and was filled with an array of
human relics resembling the ossuaries
attached to most village churches in
Brittany. Bones and skulls were
piled up in vast numbers on its N.
side ; and for 3 feet beneath the sur-
face of the ground the crumbling dust
was that of the ancient inhabit^ts of
Bipon. All these remains have been
removed and buried. The vault of
the crypt is supported by square
pillars, with plain caps. These nave
been strengthened in the E.E. period.
Over the door of the bone-house is the
head of a cross which may very well
be Saxon. It was found in 1832, in
taking down a wall (temp. Henry
Ym.) at the E. end of the choir.
284
Bauie 22. — Biponi : Hospitals — Excursions.
Some 13th cent, sepulchral slahs
are collected under the E. window.
Near the S. transept is a tombstone
with a curious epitaph for 6 infants.
The Cathedral is so closely sur-
rounded with buildings that no good
near view is to be obtained. At a
distance, and from the low hills about
Bipon, it rises finely above the city,
and is a conspicuous mark from the
hills which border the great plain of
York.
Except the Cathedral, there is
little to be seen in Bipon.
The HoBpital of St Mary Magda-
lene, in Stammergate, not far from
the Ure, was founded for lepers by
Abp. Thurstan (died 1140), The
houses attached to it were rebuilt in
1674 ; the little chapel on the oppo-
site side of the way remains as it was
left at the Befotmation. The S. door-
way (Norm.) has been altered in the
Perp. period, when some windows
were inserted, together with the
screen-work of the interior. There
are also some £. Eng. lancets. The
most striking relics here, however,
are the stone altar, with the pave-
ment before it. It is tesselated in
coloured marble, stone, and brick,
witii a circular ornament in the
centre. An iron-bound chest in this
chapel deserves notice.
The Hoipttal of 8t. Anne, or
Mai8on Dieu, in High-et^ Agnes Oate,
a retreat for 8 poor women, is thought
to have been founded by one of the
Nevilles (temp. Edward IV.). The
little Perp. chapel is in ruins, but re-
tains its piscina and altar-stone, on
which tradition asserts that the ran-
som of a Scottish king was paid.
A good B. C. ch., with a lofty
choir, deserves notice.
In the garden of the canon*s resi-
dence is a remarkable tumulus called
•* AUcy HiU,*" the evidence, no doubt,
of a great bat^e fought on the spot,
since human bones are mixed in
quantities with the gravel of the
mound, and the teeth and bones of
horses are found in quantities about
its base. " Stycas " of Northnmbrian
kings of the latter half of the 9th
cent, have been found in the mound,
proving its date with tolerable cer-
tainty. It was caUed "Dshow" in
Leland's time ; and its name has been
connected with that of iElla Eling of
Northumbria, who, however (Sax.
Chron.), fell at York in battle with
the Northmen (a.d. 867).
In the neighbourhood of Bipon (on
the high Lmd near " Blois Hall 0
are two curious circular earthworks,
with a diameter of 680 ft They
have been enclosed by a mound and
trench; and it has been suggested
that they were sites of tempes or
moot hills, rather than places of
defence. (They must be compared
with similar earthworks near Tan-
iield, see poet) There is notiiing,
however, to indicate their date, since,
although there are many CJeltic bar-
rows in the neighbourhood, the earth-
works may be much later. They are
unusual, at any rate, in fonn and
arrangement, and deserve careful ex-
amination.
The Epiteopal Palace, a Tudor
building, designed by HaiUan, and
completed in 1841, stands about 1 m.
N. W. of Bipon. Attached to it is a
chapel, of rerp. character, also de-
signed by Bailton.
Excursions from Bipon are (§ a) to
Studley Royal and Fountains Abbey,
4 m. ; § & to Marhenfteld HaU, ^ m. ;
and to HackfaU, Studley, Fountains,
and Markenfield may be visited on
the same day; and the tourist may
extend his excursion beyond Hackfall
to Tanfield and Snape. This last
will be a long day's work, but the
antiquary sho\Ud not miss Tanfield at
any rate. Newby HaU, on the Ure.
4 n\. from Bipon, contains a good
Suttle 22.—8tudley Boyal.
285
collection of statuary, and is occa-
sionaUj shown to small parties.
(a) The grounds of Studley Boycd
(Marquis of Bipon), in which lie the
ruins of Fountains Abbeys have long
been ranked with the most famous
"sights* in Yorkshire. Those who
desire to visit both the grounds and
the ruins of the Abbej maj ti^Le the
following route — ^beginning with the
grounds. If it is onlj desired to see
the Abbey, carriages may drive to
the W. gate, by Fountains Hall, and
close to the ruins, see post. A long
Bummer's day can hardly be spent
more delightfully than among the
woods of Studley, and the ruins of
Fountains. The arrangement and dis-
tribution of a great Cistercian house
is nowhere in England seen so com-
pletely as at Fountains.
The entrance to the park of Stud-
ley Boyal is about 2 m. from Bipon
on the road to Pateley Bridge. (The
grounds are open daily from 7 to 5 ;
Uie house is never shown.) A long
and most picturesque avenue of limes
leads to an elegant Gothic Ckureh,
surmounted by a spire erected by
Lady Bipon as a memorial to her
brother, murdered by Greek brigands.
Burgess was the ardiitect. It stands
on Mgh ground, commanding views
of both Ripon and Fountains.
Before reaching the church, the road
to Fountains turns down a grand old
beechen avenue to the margin of the
little river Skell, which, winding
onward to join the Ure below Bipon,
is here dammed up into a lake of
12 acres; close to the Lodge and
entrance Gates of the ornamental
grounds ; Is. admittance is paid here.
(No guides are needed. The road
through the grounds is marked by
black hands painted on boards, and
the visitor finds his way readily to
the Abbey ruins for himself.)
At the beginning of the last cent.
Stndley Bo^ was the property of
John Aislabie, who had married the
heiress of Mallory. The families of
Aleman, Le Gras, Tempest, and Mal-
lory had successively held Studley
for five centuries, 'hir. Aislabie, after
having been for many years in public
life ^e had become Chancellor of
the Exchequer), retired to Studley,
and set himself to lay out and plant
the park round the manor-house,
which he partly rebuilt. Besides the
park, he laid out a part of the valley
of the Skell as a pleasure-ground;
and his works here acquired so great
a reputation, that Studley became
known as the '* most embellished spot
in the north of England." From the
Chancellor's son, William Aislabie,
Studley passed to two heiresses in
succession, Mrs. Allanson, and Mrs.
Lawrence. On the death of tiie latter
in 1845, it passed by will to Earl de
Grey, whose nephew succeeded in
1859, and was raised to the Marqui-
sate in 1871.
The pleasure grounds of Studley
Boyal, which we now enter, were
begun about 1720. Mr. Aislabie was
assisted only by his gardener, William
Fisher; and the original design was
formed on that Dutch taste which
King William had introduced, and
which Sir William Temple had made
fashionable by his gardens at Moor
Park in Surrey. Tne stream, cantd-
ized, and opening at intervals into
wide ponds, was led between terraced
banks adorned with statues, and
bounded by tall ever-green hedges.
Enough of this old arrangement has
been retained to give a special cha-
racter to the place; whilst walks
have been cut through the woods
behind the hedges, commandinjB; wider
prospects, well contrasted with the
formal '* pleasaunce " below. Those
who can only admire the ** natural **
style of gardening will scarcely ap-
prove of the ponds, temples, and
statues of Studley ; but these grounds
are among the best examples of their
class, — ^perhaps indeed the very best ;
286
ttouts 22. — fountains Ahhey.
and exquisite bits of landscape are
occasionallj afiForded by the broad
still water and dark wood-covered
banks.
The valley is here much contracted.
Its widest part is seen, shortly after
entering toe erounds, through an
opening in a dose yew hedge; the
" Moon '' and " Crescent" Ponds re-
flecting statues of Neptune, Bacchus,
and (xuen, spread out below ; and on
the opposite side, under the wood, is
the "Temple of Piety." In this part
of the grounds are some very line
Norway firs (black spruce), one of
which, near ^e walk, is 132 ft. high
and 12} ft. in circumference above
its roots. A hemlock spruce, more
than 60 ft. high, should also be
noticed. (Like other trees in the
Eark and grounds of Studley, these
ave been figured by Loudon in his
* Arboretum,' and are referred to by
him as affording excellent standards
by which to estimate the growth of
their respective species under favour-
able circumstances.) The walks,
sometimes passing by the side of
the canal, and sometimes through
the woods, afford many beautiud
prospects, until the stream is crossed
oy a rustic bridge, and in the midst
of natural wo^ a small irregular
^* pool" appears, with an island bear-
ins; a pillar to the memory of Greneral
Wolfe. The view from the Temple
of Piety should be noticed. Beyond
it, a path, cut through the wood,
climbs the hill, and, passing through
a tunnel in the rocx, the Octagon
Tower is reached, which, from the
opposite side of the valley, has fre-
quently been seen, crowning the hill.
Here the visitor may rest, and enjoy
the views towards Studley Hall on
one side, and to How Hill (see po8t)
on the other ; before, passing through
high woods of beacn and oak, he
reaches Anne BoUyn^e Seat. This is a
small arbour, from which is obtuned
a view of " Fountain Dale " with the
nuns of its famous abbey rising on a
strip of green meadow-ground, and
shut in by the wooded sides of the
valley.
On the side of the stream is ** Bdbin
Sood^s WeU,^ a memorial, it may be,
of the famous encounter between that
" good man *^ and the '^ curtail friar
of Fountains," whose fame was so
widely spread that
** BoUn he took a solemn oath.
It was by Mary ftee.
That be wonld neftber eat nor drink
Till that friar be did see."
After a fierce struggle, the friar
threw Bobin into the Skell, and ob-
liged him to sound the " mot " for his
50 yeomen. The friar summoned as
many bandogs, but Little John let
fly his arrows among ihem, till the
fnar,
**. who had kept Fountain Dale J
Seven long years and more,"
called for a truce. According to
Ritson, Bobin Hood^s bow and arrows
were preserved at Fountains.
Passing beyond the well, with the
ruins full in view rt., the visitor will
reach a point at which the great ch.
tower, rising above lower buildings
and ruined walls in front, combines,
with trees, undergrovrth, and ivy, to
form a picture i^ch, for beauty of
colour and outline, can hardly be
surpassed.
Li the year 1132 (the year after
Bievaulx, the fint Cistercian house
in Yorkshire, had been founded br
Walter Espec, who placed in it s
colony of monks sent from Qairvaux
bv St. Bernard) certain Benedictines
of St. Mary's at York, who had
become greatly dissatisfied with th'*
lax discipline of their own monas-
tery, and were much influenced br
the fame of St. Bernard (reformer
of the Benedictine order, himself
Abbot of Clairvaux, and founder
of Citeaux, whence the reformed
Benedictines took the name of Cis-
tercians), applied to Thuxstan, Abp.
I
H
ID
T^ £
:?3
I
^AbAM&iOiC
288
Boute 22. — Fountains Abbey.
of York, to procure for them the re-
storation of proper rule in the house
of Si Marys. Thurstan attempted
it in vain; the discontented monks,
after a scene of great violence, took
refuge in the Ahp.'s palace in York,
and afterwards accompanied him to
Ripon, where, about Christmas in
the same year, he assigned them a
place of retreat in the valley of the
Skell. They sheltered themselves at
first under the rocks which bordered
the valley, and beneath some spread-
ing yew-trees which still remain ; and
afterwards built wooden cells and
a chapel under an enormous elm,
which survived until the Dissolution.
Here they underwent great hardship
and privation for two years ; and had
obtamed St. Bernard^s leave to re-
move to one of the granges of Clair-
vaux, when Hugh, Dean of York,
during his last ulness, caused him-
self to be conveyed to Fountains,
assumed the habit of the monks, and
died, leaving them considerable pro-
perty. From this time wealth poured
in on the fortunate Cistercians. They
beean to build in more substantial
fawion, and under the direction of
monks (one especially, Henry Mur-
dac, the 3rd aobot), who were per-
sonal friends of St. Bernard, and
who no doubt brought the ^lan of
their new house from Clturvaux.
" Fontes " — " Fountains " — was the
name given to the monastery, no
doubt, as Matt. Paris asserts, from
the springs which burst forth in this
part of the vallev. Six stUl rise
within the site alone. The abbot,
Henry Murdac, was raised in 1147 to
the see of York, after the deposition
of St. William (see York Miruter,
Bte. 1) ; and certain partisans of the
latter attacked and set fire to the
Abbey of Fountains. How much of
the work was then destroyed we
cannot tell; but the building con-
tinued throuffhont the 12th century.
The choir c? tiie church was com-
menced by Abbot John in 1203. This
was nearly completed in 1220; and
between that year and 1247 thehooee
was ruled by John of Kent, who
added the transeptal aisle at the east
end of the church, called the ^ Nine
Altars**; built the southern part of
the great cloister, the infirmacy. and
the bospitium. From this time therf
was little building, and little need d
any, at Fountains, until Abbot Hubr
(1494-1526) raised the great tower
which still dominates over the val-
ley. Fountains had long before be-
come one of the wealthiest religions
houses in Yorkshire. Its annual vahie
at the Dissolution was 9982. — the
Benedictine Abbey of St. Marys at
York alone exceeded it in yearly
income; and if its monks had ex-
changed the ascetic rule of St. Ber-
nard and Abbot Murdac for the life
of comfortable country gentlemen,
the house does not seem to have been
in a bad state when the last abbot.
Maimaduke Bradley, " the wise^
monk within England of that cote,"
as Layton called him — ** well learned,
and a wealthie fellow ^ — resisned his
monastery into the hands of ue royal
commissioners. At this time the
lands of Fountains' extended ^*fram
the foot of Pennyffent to the boun-
daries of St. Wilfrid of Bipon, an
uninterrupted space of more than 30
miles. Besides many other wide do-
mains, the lands in (>aven contained,
in a ring fence, a hundred square
miles, or 60,000 acres on a moderate
computation." — WhUaker.
The extreme beauty of the site is
at once evident, as, crossing the Skell
by a very picturesque bridge (13th
century) close to the abbey mill,
we enter the immediate precinct.
(The walled Close, a parish of itself,
containing about 80 acres, extended,
of course, far beyond the precinct.)
In front is the great Church, with its
lofty tower, and the long range of
cloisters and dormitory, extending
from its S. side to the SkeU. 1. the
steep side of the valley rises above
ledges of rock, which may have
Saute 22.— Fountains Abbey.
28d
sheltered the first coloiiists of Foan-
tains ; and on a knoll, between the
bridge and the mill, are the venerable
yew-trees, which, bejond doubt,
have witnessed all the changes of
Fountain Dale from a period lonff
before the Conquest. Thej are stifi
known as the ** Seven Sisters,"* al-
thoi2gh but 2 now remain. These
are of great size, with twisted, fast-
decaying trunks, one of which is
25 ft. in circumference. De Candolle
supposed these trees to be more than
12 centuries old ; but they may very
well be far more ancient, since it Ib
impossible to ascertain at what time
their growth ceased. The^ are at
any rate the most certain relics which
the valley now contains, of the first
two years during which the fugitives
from St. Mary^s led their struggling
life here.
The abbey ruins have been care-
fully protected since they came (ii^
1768) into the possession of Mr.
Aislabie, and are kept with the
utmost order and propriety by their
present owner. Smce 1848 a series
of excavations, under Bir. Walbran*s
dhrection, have been made at the
S.E. angle of the buildings. In this
manner the foundations Qnarked by
a lighter shade in Uie plan) of the
abbi^'s house and of adjoining offices
have been uncovered ; and the arrange-
ments of a great monastery may now
be studied more perfectly* here than
on any other site in England. The
general plan of Fountains resembled
that of Clairvaux or of Citeaux, and
was probablv supplied from one of
those great houses, under the super-
vision of St. Bernard himself.
Crossing the MtU Bridge, the main
jKits-ftottse (0) is immediately in
iront. This is now a fragment, but
must have been of considerable size.
Standing in front of it, the visitor
may restore, in imagination, the
scene that would have presented
itself to a stranger, on entering this
{Yorkshire.}
outer court, when the abbey was
the great "hon)itium" of all this
country. He should pass at once
to the Conventual Churcht on the
extreme left, most of which is so
perfect, that at first sight it seems
as if little more than a roof were
wanted to restore it. It consists of
nave, transept, choir, and eastern
transept, or "Chapel of the Nine
Altars.^* The tower is at the end
of the N. transept The floor was
entirely cleared in 1854; and it
was then found that, after the Dis-
solution, the woodwork of the choir
had been used for melting the lead
of the roof. Part of the furnace
was discovered in the nave, and even
the tomb-sUtbs had been removed ia
search of treasure.
The nave and transept (see the
plan) are Trans.-Norm., and were
raised between the abbacy of Henry
Murdac and that of Balph Haget
1143-1190). Excavations smce 1854,
however, have proved thtft a most
remarkable and picturesque Galilee
Porch was added beyond the W.
front of the nave towiud the end of
same century. It had in front a
double open arcade (part of which
has been replaced in its original
position, and is so unlike anything of
the same period in England as to
siiggest a foreign designer). The
porch, 15 ft. wide, has been used for
burial ; and at the N. end is a tomb-
slab with cross of the 12th cent.
The W. window of the nave was
inserted by Abbot Damton (147&-
1494), whose rebus (an eagle holding
a crosier, and perched on a tun, from
which issues a label inscribed " dem,
1494,''— the eagle, emblem of St.
John, gives the abbot's Christian
name) appears on a bracket, below
the niche which contains a headless
figure of the Virgin, the great pa-
troness of the Cistercians. The view
up the long and narrow nave of
11 bays is solemn and impressive.
There is no triforium. The main
arches (pointed) rest on massive circ.
290
Boute 22. — Fountains Abbey.
pien rthe bases of which are remark-
able, foimmg seats) ; and above are
round-headed clerestory lights. The
aisles have pointed vaulting, divided
bj semicirc. arches, the imposts of
which are lower than those of the
main piers. The whole design is
singularly plain and unadorned; in
perfect accordance with the austerity
of Cistercian rule, and with the dis-
like expressed by St. Bernard for the
sculpture and decoration with which
''' they of Cluny ** filled their churches.
There were chapels divided by screen -
work in the 5 or 6 eastern bays of
both aisles. Durins the clearing of
the nave, two waUed snaces w^ere
found below the level of tne floor, on
either side of the last bay adjoining
the transept, one of which contained
9 large vases of rude earthenware,
imbedded in its sides. These, it is
probable, were placed there for acous-
tic purposes. The choir of the monks
probably extended beyond the tran-
sept (as was the case in nearly all
Norman churches); and the vases
may have been intended to increase
the sound either of voices, or of an
organ placed over or near them.
Similar vessels have been foimd
beneath the stalls of churches in
Engluid and elsewhere, and have
usually been looked upon as acoustic
devices, though it is difficult to say in
what manner they would act. The
dots in the plan mark the processional
stones which were found in the nave,
but so worn and crumbling, that the
turf was allowed to recover them.
The transept, like the nave, is
Trans. - Norm. The dark, closed
chapels of its eastern aisles should
be noticed. Abbot Huby (1494-1526)
constructed the fine Peip. totoer which
rises at the N. end of the transept.
Its height is 168 ft. 6 in. Above and
below the belfry- windows are inscrip-
tions. Shields of the abbey and of
the Norton^ of Norton Conyers, who
no doubt assisted in building the
tower, are mmgled with these inscrip-
tions. Above the lowest window an
angel holds a shield with the initials
of Marmaduke Huby. The mitred
figure on the N. side is probably
Abp. Savage; and the efSgy above
the ridge of the transept roof is no
doubt that of Abbot Huby himself.
The first, or Trans. -Nomu cftotr,
was aisleless, short, and narrow. Its
foundations are traced by lines of
flagstones within the present choir
(A in the plan), which was began
by Abbot John of York (de Ebor
—1203-1211), continued by Abbot
Pherd (1211-1219), and completed
by Abbot John of Kent (1220-
1247). The design is simple, yet
very graceful, E. Eng. Some tesse-
lated pavement remains before the
site of the high altar. But the choir,
however graceful, must have yielded
in beautv to the Chapel of tii Nine
Altars (i\ an eastern transept, which
was also the work of Abbot John of
Kent A similar eastern transept,
bearing the same name, was added to
Durham Cathedral nearly at the same
time, and Peterborough Cathedral has
a transept of Perp. £ite, in the same
position. The want of space for
shrines and altars compelled these
additions. Fountains indeed was
never fortunate enough to procure
the relics of any distinguished saint,
although great efforts were made to
obtain those of St. Bobert of Knares-
borough (see Bte. 20), who died
whilst this transept was building ; but
the abbey possessed lesser relics, and
altar-room was much required. The
E. Eng. work here is plain and
massive, but the general design, is of
great beauty ; the lofty arches, in line
with the choir-arcade, giving much
peculiar character; ana the view,
looking across the transept, from S.
to N., is especially to be noticed.
The great E. window was a Peip.
insertion. The flprey marble, which
was used pleutifidly here and in the
choir (although the greater part has
disappeared), was procured by the
monks from their own lands in Nid*
derdale.
Boute 22. — Fountains Abbey*
291
A door at the S.E. angle of the
naTe aisle leads into the Cloister
Court ; round which were ranged, as
iisual, the chief conventual buudings.
On the E. was the Chapter-house,
with passages bejpnd it leading to the
abbot's house. S. were the frater-
house, the kitchens, refectory, and
buttery. W. stretched along the great
cloister, with the dormitory above it.
The court was originally surrounded
by a cloister, with round-headed
arcades, of which a portion remained
in the last cent.
The Qiapter-house (C in the plan)
is E.Elng., out of an earlier character
than the choir, and was possibly, as
Mr. Walbran suggests, the work of
Abbot Kichard Fastolph ai63-1170),
who had been prior of Clairvaux,
and may have brought the design
from that great abbey. It is rect-
angular, and was divided into 3 aisles
by a double row of 5 columns, the
bases of which alone remain. This
aisled Chapter-house is peculiar. It
occurs at Jervaulx and at Beaulieu
in Hampshire (both Cistercian), and
at Netley (Benedictine) and Tintem
(Cistercian). It is found only in mo-
nastic churches.
The brackets here are noticeable.
The simple long leaf, ribbed in the
middle, like the leaf of a hart's-
tongue fern, runs through the orna-
mentation of the abbey. Here two
leaves are sometimes laid one on
another. The abbots of Fountains,
from 1170 to 1345, were (with two
exceptions) buried here, and the
coffins and tomb-dabs of 10 abbots
(including the most northerly in the
2nd row from the east, that of John
of Kent, the builder of the 9 altars)
remain on the floor. The library and
scriptorium were above the Chapter-
house, and were approached from the
S. transept of the church. Beyond
the groined passage leading to the
hase court and the abbot's house, is
the FraUf'lwfue or general refectoiy
(E.). 104 ft. bv 29, of Trans..Nonn.
date. From its upper end was a
communication with the cellar (N)
and brewhouse.
A staircase (which has been re-
paired) leads from iiie S.E. angle of
the cloister to the HaU of Pl^, or
the court-house of the abbey; in
which the seneschal and his officers
held the courts of the Liberty of
Fountains. Here are deposited some
interesting relics found during the
excavations. The most remanable
is the effigy of Roger de Mowbray,
who died at Ghent in 1298, and was
brought here for interment. It was
removed here from one of the chapels
in the N. transept. Some capitals
and bands of shafts, worked in Nid-
derdale marble, should also be no-
ticed.
Beyond the staircase on the S. side
of the cloister is the kitchen (L),
vaulted, with a single central pillar.
The heads of the two fireplaces,
" straight, and fonned of huge stones,
dovetimed together on the principle
of an arch,^* are remarkable. The
two openings in the W. wall were
hatches into the refectory. Like the
court-house, this building is of the
12th cent.
The great Befectory (F), which ad-
joms, is E. Engl., 109 ft. by 46^.
A row of marble columns ran down
the centre, but only the foundations
of one remain. On the W. side is a
recess from which one of the brethren
read during meals. Adjoining is the
BuUery,
Leaving the great cloister for the
present, we proceed through the pas-
sage into the base court (D). AD
this part of the abbey, as weU as the
foundations of the Abbot's House
beyond it, has been discovered since
1848. The most remarkable feature
here is the group of 3 prisons (M) on
the E. fiide of the base court, lliey
were used for refractoiT monks, as
well perhaps as for other offenders
within tiie abbey liberty, and seem to
u2
292
Boute 2i.— Fountains Abbey.
have afforded different degrees of dis-
eomfort, the innermost being the
smallest and strongest.
The AbMa Souse, apnroached by
a long passage, extended beyond, and
was bnilt partly over the Skell. It
was designed, probably, by Abbot
John of Kent, the bmlder of the
9 altars, and seems to have remained
unaltered (after the £. Eng. period)
until one of the later abbots built a
separate refectory, and divided the
great hall into several apartments. It
was pulled down by Sir Stephen
Proctor (temp. Jas. I.^, who built
Fountains Hall with the materials.
The discovery of its true site is en-
tirely due to J. B. Walbran, Esq.,
who directed the removal of the rub-
bish with which it was covered, being
convinced that the Abbot's House was
really placed here, and not in the
ffreat court W. of the church, as
had usually been conjectured. The
arrangement of the house will be best
understood from the plan. The hall
(171 ft. by 70) must have been one
of the noblest in the kinedom, and its
central space was divi^ from the
Msle which surrounded it by 18 marble
columns. The Abbot's Chapel, with
the altar mound (the slab nas dis-
appeared), was E. of the hall ; and
N. of it is a cirpt (cellar and store-
house^ in which, says tradition, the
abbots "6 white horses" were kept.
This tradition is so far accurate, that
the abbot, at the time of the Dis-
solution, really possessed '*sex equi
ad bigam.** His garden and orchard
extended E. of the church.
The visitor may walk from this
point round the N. side of the ch.,
and, returning into the main court,
enter the so-called ^Great Cloister
(6), the long vaulted range of which
is so striking and impressive that the
late M. de Montalembert is said, on
entering it, to have flunff himself on
his knees in an ecstasy of admiration.
It is 800 ft. long. The most northern
part (as far as the porter*s lodge) is
Trans-Norm. ; the rest, whidi is
E. Eng., was built by Abbot John
of Kent. The part adjoining the
church seems to have been divided
into storehouses. Above, and ex-
tending the whole length, was the
Dormitory, containing 40 ceOs, di-
vided by wooden partitions. Stairs
of approach wind over the portefa
lodge, and there is another staircase
N., by which the monks descended
into the church.
In the great court, and on the
river bank, are the HotpiUumy or
guest-house (I), and the Infirmary
(H>— both of the first, or Trans-
Norm, period. In the Hospitium is
a boss bearing a Temphir's cross.
The order was closely connected with
the Cistercians, and ot Bernard drew
up their rules.
The last abbot but one, William
Thirsk (1526-1536), whom Layton
describes as **a varra fole and a
misereble ideote," resigned his office
privately into the hands of the royal
commissioners, by whose advice it was
bestowed (not without payment of a
"consideration") on Abbot Bradley.
He of course knew that the house was
doomed, and three years later resigned
it to the king, receiving a pension of
1002. a year. The ex-Abbot Thirsk
was concerned, or was said to be con-
cerned, in the Pilgrimage of Grace
(1537) J and, with the Abbot of Jor-
vaulx, the Prior of Bridlington, and
others, was hanged at Tyburn in that
year. It was at first propoeed to
apply the revenues of roontains
towards the endowment of a bishopric
of Lancaster ; but this was set aside
with other propositions of the sort,
and the abbey, with the greater part
of its estates, was sold in 1540 to Sir
Richard Gre^am. In 1597Gred]iam8
representatives sold the site to Sir
Stephen Proctor, who pulled down
the abbot's house, and built tiic hoiisP
called Fountains Hall with the ma-
BoiUe 22.^0ranaey—Markenfield,
293
terialfl. It was again sold in 1623,
and passed through three different
hands until it reached those of the
Messenger family, hj whom the
abbej, its franchises, and a small
estate, were sold in 1768 to Mr. Ais-
labie for 18,0002.
Foufdaim HaU, bmlt hj Sir Ste-
phen Proctor, stands a little beyond
the West Crate ; and as the guides do
not aways point it out, the visitor
should nuike a point of asking for it.
It is a most picturesque James I.
mansion, unaltered since its com-
pletion; and with its bay windows,
terraces, and gables, forms an ad-
mirable subject for the artist. There
is nothing which calls for notice
within the house, except some tapes-
try in the dining-room.
I
(A magnificent view over the plain
of York is obtained from H<no HiU,
about f m. S.W. of Fountains Abbey.
There was a chapel of St. Michael on
its sammit, but the tower now seen
there was built by Mr. Aislabie in
1778. A stone built into the wall
bears the initials of Abbot Huby,
with his motto. The hill was an-
ciently called ^ Herleshow," either,
suggests Mr. Walbran, as the plaee
where the Saxon Earl of the county
held his court, or from some early
proprietor named " Herled.")
8 m. N.W. of Fountains is OranUey
HaXL (Lord Grantley, who is the repre-
sentative of the Nortons). Here are
some good pictures, including a por-
trait of Bichard Ncui^n, the patriarch
of the " Bising in the North *'— (see
pott, Norton Conyers) ; " Charles I.
and Henrietta Muria'* {'Vandyck)\
and " The Good Samaritan '* (Anni-
hah Carraoci),
(b) MarkenflM HaU, 2 m. W. of
Kipon, well deserves a visit from the
antk|nary. It was for many centu-
ries the 'seat of a family who took
their name from this place, and were
of considerable importance. Sir Ni-
nian, according to the old poem, was
a leader at Flmlden : —
*• Nex t went Sir Ninlan Markenfleld, .
In armour coat of cunning worke." !
One of their descendants was still
living here in the time of Leland ;
but in 1569 Thomas Murkenfield
took an active part in the " Kising of
the North,'* and on his attainder his
estates were forfeited to the Crown.
The licence to crenellate Markenfield
was obtained by '* John de Merkine-
field " (who had been Chan, of the
Exch. under Edw. n.) in 1810 ; and
the house was probably commenced
about that time. The plan (as the
house now stands) is a large irregu-
lar court, formed partly by the house
and partly by stables and other out-
buildmgs, surrounded by a moat.
The r^. house was added to and
altered in the 15th and 16th centu-
ries.
The original portion is in the form
of the letter L, with the hall in one
part and the chapel in the other,
tx>th on the first floor, with other
rooms under them, one of which,
under the chapel, appears to have
been the kitchen. The entrance to
the hall was by a doorway in one
comer, from an external stone stair-
case, of which the foundations re-
main, and the weather moulding of
the roof over it One window
in the gable is at a higher level tiban
the rest, having been over the music
galleiy. The corbels of the orig^inal
open roof remain. The present roof
is modem. A doorway leads from
the dais of the hall to the chapel,
and on the S. side of the chapel is a
doorway opening to what was appa-
rently the priest*s chamber, with a
room above it. At the £. end of
the hall is the solar, and a large
garderobe opening from it. All these
rooms (hall, chapel, &c.) are on the
first stoiy, upstairs. The rest of the
house is Perp., and later. The win-
dows of the Dec. part are (except
294
RoiiU> 22.—Hackfall—Neiohy Rail,
those of the hall and chapel) square-
headed. The Dec. plan clos^ re-
semhles that of Ajdon Castle, North-
nmherland (of somewhat earlier date,
1280-1300), hut, on the whole, Mar-
kenfield Hall hears a greater reeem-
hlance to the genenditj of south
country than noiihem manor-houses.
The large Dec. windows are not
characteristic of a house huilt with
a studious view to defence. — (J. H.
Parker, Domegtio Architecture).
The house now belongs to Lord
Grantley and is occupied as a farm.
(e) A very pleasant da7*s excur-
sion from Bipon may he made to
HaekfaU, proceeding thence to Well
and Stiajoe, and returning to Tanfield.
This will he a round of about 20 m.
The three last-named places will
interest the antiquary. A long day
may be spent ve^ delightfully at
Hackfall alone. Tanfield Stat., on
the rly. to Masham is about 3 m.
from Hackfall.
HaekfaU is about 7 m. from Bipon.
Taking the Tanfield road, turn oS
at Sleningford, and, passing the little
village of Mickley, we reach that
of Grewelthoiroe, famous for its cream
cheese. [Off the road, 1., is seen
the church of Kirby Malzeard, where
the Mowbrays had a castle (no frag-
ments remain). The ch., which
stands beautifully in the valley,
has some Norm, portions, and a
Perp. tower, into which some curi-
ous early sculpture has been worked.J
At Grewelthorpe the carriages must
be left, and through a wicket at the
entrance of the village, the woods of
Hackfall are entered. (Each visitor
must pay Is. for his ticket, which is
to be had at a cottage opposite the
entrance.)
"Hackfall" (the oak fall or stream?)
is apparently so named from a stream
which here descends through a steep
narrow glen entirely fiSed with
trees and dense foliage to join the
river Ure. Paths were cut through
the woods, and the stream was
here andv there artificially " guided "
under the direction of Mr. Alsl&bie,
in whose time the place was pro-
nounced by Pennant "one of the
most picturesque scenes in the north
of England.'' The path winds down-
wards to the river, crosses the
"Hack*' bum, and then re-ascends
steeply toward Mowbray Castle — an
artificial ruin which might be re-
moved with advantage, and to Mow-
bray Pointy whence a wonderful view
bursts on the eye, extending over the
wide "vale of Mowbray" (as the
northern portion of the great York-
shire plain has been called, from the
great lords who were once its chief
barons) as far as the Tees and the
sea. In front is a magnificent fore-
ground of wood, rock, and partisl
flashes of water — ^the Ure winding
on toward Tanfield and Bipon. The
combination of this near view with
the great plain beyond, full as that is
of h^torical recollections, is one of the
great features of the Hackfall woods.
(A gate on the opposite side of the
road, after leaving the Hackfall
woods, wLU lead the tourist to Nut-
with Camp — a square intrenchment,
with a single foss, and a mound at
the N.W. angle. It is no doubt
Boman, and was on the line of a road
proceeding to Catterick (Catarac-
tonium), and crossing another Boman
road through Wensleydale. The
view from this camp is more exten-
sive than that from Mowbray Point,
but has not the same foreground.
The plain of York extends E. ; and
N., looking beyond Wensleydale, a
dump of trees on Bichmond race-
course is visible. The view will
amply repay a visit. Beacons on
the hills in sight communicated with
this camp from a vast distance on
all sides.)
Newby HaU (Lady Maiy Vyner>
on the lire, about 4 m. from Bipou,
was built in 1705, from (it is
said) a design by Sir Christopher
SotUe 22. — Norton Congers.
295
Wren, bat has since been mnch
enlarged. The house contains an
important collection of sculpture,
made on the Continent by the late
Wm. Weddell, Esq., of whom there
is a portrait by Bottom, and a bust
hy NoUekens. The most remarkable
pieces are — ^the so-called Barherini
Venus, a statue 5 ft. 1} in. high, in
the attitude of the Medicean. Both
arms, the right leg from the knee,
and the head are modem ; the rest is
of fine Greek workmanship. The
fragment long remained in tne vaults
of Sie Barberini Palace. The restora-
tions are by the sculptor Facili. A
Muse, seated (the head is not ori-
ginal). A colossal head of Heretdes,
with a tripod of Bacchanals. A head
of Minerva, in Parian marble, the
casque and back part of the head
restorations. Besides many other
statues and busts, there is an antiq[ue
sarcophagus of Pavonazzo marble,
and a smaller one sculptured with
boys and fruit. There are some
paintings, chiefly family portraits, in
the house, and the drawmg-room is
hang with fine Qobelins taj^stry.
Skelton Ch., an elegant Gothic
building, with spire (Burgess, archl,
stained glass oy Saunders), was
erected by Lady Mary Vvner, in
memory of her son so cruelly mur-
dered by Greek brigands, May, 1870.
£<po» to K AUerton.—RBik.
Leaving Ripon, the rly. proceeds
for a short distance along the 1. bank
of the Ure, and then turns away.
The woods of Norton Conyers are
seen 1. before reaching Melmerby,
This (now the property of Lord
Downe) is the ancient home of the
Noxtons, famous for their share in
the '* Bising of the North " in 1569.
Thej were ardent in the cause of the
" old religion,** and of the Queen of
Scots. Old Norton had no doubt
been oat in the Pilgrimage of Grace,
the banner of which was the same
he displayed in the rising ; and the
Nortons had undertaken to kill the
Begent Murray, as he passed North-
allerton on his return to Scotland
after the Commission at Westminster
in January, 1569 ; but this intention
was countermanded. Wordsworth,
in his * White Doe of Bylstone/ has
accepted the popular tradition, which
follows the old ballad : —
•'Thee, Norton, with thine eight good eons.
They doom'd to die, alas, for mth I"
But the facts are, that, althoueh
the family were mined after &e
Bising 01 the Nortii, and their
estates confiscated, ohly one of the
sons was executed. Bichard Norton,
the father (whose offence was in-
creased by his having been the
Queen's sheriff for Yorkshire in the
preceding year), escaped with his
sons Francis and Sampson to the
Low Countries, but when or where
they died is unknown. Edmund,
the third son, was the ancestor of
the Lords Ghrantley. Norton sub-
sequently became the property of
the Gnmams; one of wh<Hn, Sir
Bichard Graham, according to ike
popular story, fled, desperatelv
wounded, from Marston Moor. He
was followed to Norton by Chxnnwell,
who galloped into the hall and up
the staircase, arriving just in time to
shake Sir Bichard in his bed until he
died. As the horse turned to de-
scend the broad staircase, the print
of his hoof, with the shoe, was
stamped on the topmost stair, where
it stfll remains to confound the in-
credulous. (It appears to be the im-
pression of a horseshoe heated.) It
is true that Sir Bichard Graham was
severely wounded at Marston, but
his death did not occur until 1655,
10 years after the battle. The house
of Norton is for the most part Eliza-
bethan, and seems to have been built
by the last Norton. The woods are
fine.
296
Boute 22.—Watli Churchr^Tanfidd.
3 m. Mdmerbff Jttnct. Stat.
Bailwaj lines branch from this W.
to Tanfield and Masham. N.E. to
Thirsk by Baldereby and Topcliffe.
i m. from Mehnerby, 1., is the ch.
of Walh (Celt., a ford ; it is the same
as the Gaelic Ath, as the Athlone.
"Nadum" and the Fr. "Gu<J," are
cognate) — worth a visit. Wath
Churoh is E.Eng., with Ferp. inser-
tions and alterations. The chancel
is onnsuallv long (remark the Bianner
in which the do(« and window above
it on the S. side are arranged), and
has adjoining it, N., a ve^ry with
pnest^s room above it, like that at
Well, except that this was accessible
fr<Hn ufiihint bv a staircase in the
S.W. angle. A narrow hagioscope
opened from the upper room toward
the altar. In the cnancel is a double
piscina with shafts, and 3 sedilia
(all £. Eng.). Benvrk also an in-
different tablet by tlaxman, to the
Bev. Thos. Brand, 15 years rector
(d. 1814), and a brass against the
£. wall commemorating Stephen
Penton, also rector, d. 1706, with a
long string of advice to his parish-
ioners. In the S. transept is the
much-worn brass of Bich. Norton
(that of his wife is lost), who, with
his wife, died of the plague in 1433 ;
and under the flooring of the pew
belonging to Norton Conyers are
brasses of Bich. Norton, Chief Justice
of the King's Bench, 1420, and of
his wife. The boards are so ftxed,
however, that the slab can be ex-
posed when necessary. The arms
of Norton have been defaced on the
later brass ; and an *' address to the
labels'* of 1569, written by Lord
Burghley, refers to the defacing of
*' former ensigns of nobility** as a
"due prejudice to disloyal and un-
true subjects," whence it has been
thought probable that the Norton
shields in this ch. were erased after
the rebellion. The Norton arms,
however, remained in their chapel,
together with several brasses of the
family, now lost, about 1G60, as ap-
pears by a sun'ey of that tune. In
the transept are monmnents to Sir
Bichd. Graham (Qromwell's tradi-
tional victim) and others of that
family. Against the S. wall is a Dec
tomb with gabled canopy, probaWy
belonging to the Nortons.
The hSse of a stone pulpit remains
attached to the S. angle of the
chancel arch. The pulpit itself is
of wood. The font (E. Eng. base with
later bowl) should be noticed. In
the chancel are some fragments of
Dec. stained glass, and one fine
shield, with the eagle of Monther-
mer. There is a fine Flemish chest
in the vestry.
The Masham branch Saikoay as-
cends the valley of the Ure at Wath,
and touches the 1. bank of that river
near
Tanfield Stat.
Tanfield was the ancient lordship
of the Mannions; and the Ckurck,
very interesting in spite of restoration,
is rich in their monuments. The
*' townlet,** as Leland calls it, stands
on the 1. bank of the Ure, which he
** crossed by ferry for lack of bridge.**
The Marmions* Castle, or "Manor
Flace," was on the S. side of the ch.,
adjoining the river; and its "fair
towered OaUhouse^^" which Leland
mentions, is still in existence, though
the rest has perished. It is Peq>.,
and a strikmg ivy-covered oriel fronts
the visitor as he passes toward the
CJiurch, This was originally Nonn.,
with Dec. and Ferp. additions. It
has been "restored at much cost,
but with little judgment. The
Norm, chancel arch has been re-
placed by one of Ferp. character,
and the new roof is far too preten-
tious for a simple village church.
The so-called confessional (?) at the
N.E. side of the chancel arch is
a niche or recess provided with a
Bauie 2i.—TanfiM Church— Masham.
297
small trefoil-headed opening on the
E., and two a little higher, S. These
apparently are merely SquincheBf
openings pierced in a pier to command
a \iew of the high and side altars at
the raising of the Host. The N. aisle
of the nave contains seven Mannion
tombs, and is singularly picturesque,
with its mouldering effigies and mys-
terious lights. It was always the
bnrial-place of the liarmions, but
was rebuilt by Maude de Mannion
in ld48, when the earlier monuments
were replaced in it. The chief high
tomb is that either of Sir Bobert
Mannion (temp. Edw. HI.), or of his
brother Sir John, who married sisters,
danghters of Herbert de St. Quintm.
The effigy affords a good study of
annour. The knight wears a collar
of SS. His wife has on her robe the
anus of Marmion impaling those of
St. Quintin. Over the effigies re-
mains the iron "herse,^' one of the
best examples in England. (There
is a brass ** herse ** over the effigy of
an Earl of Warwick in the Beauchamp
chapel at Warwick.) This is an open
frame of iron-work, with prickets for
lights rising from it. It was usually
covered with rich tapestry. Other
effigies in this aisle are a knight
(cross-legged), temp. Hen. HI.; a
lady in a long mantle, temp. Bich. H.
(Maude de Aurmion ?) ; a lady** with
the apparail of a vowes ^ (vowess), as
Leland describes her, in a mantle,
with an inner swathed dress, which
may represent that of some religious
order ; and a knight and lady, temp.
Hen. HI. The greater part of these
monuments are much worn and dis-
figured, but all are of interest. Some
ancient stained glass, with shields of
Mannion and St. Quintin, and borders
of bees or butterflies, has been col-
lected in the last N. window of the
aisle toward the east.
In the nare is a plain coffin-lid of
mountain limestone, of early cha-
racter.
The Mannions expired in the male
line before 1340, when the widow of
Bobert, the last of the line, was re-
married. Sir John Grey of Bother-
field married the sister of the last Mar-'
mion, and received the lordship on
condition of his assuming the name.
His son Sir Bobert left an heiress,
who carried Tanfield to the Fitz-
hughs.
(Three very remarkable earth-
works remain at Thornborough, H m.
N.E. of Tanfield. They are of the
same character as those at Blois
Hall, near Bipon (see ante), and are
circidar, enclosing, with a lofty
mound and trench, an open central
platform. They are in a line, of
about 1 m. long, with an earthwork
at the centre, and one at each
end. Nothing has been found to
indicate their date or purpose, al-
though it has been conjectured that
they are temples of the British
period. Four of the many adjacent
tumuli have been opened, and dis-
closed rude pottery, chipped flints,
many of whicn had been exposed to
great heat, and other indications of
pr»-Boman interments.)
Tanfield is about 3 m. distant from
Hackfall, see p. 294.
Mcuiham Termt'nus. This common-
place market town on rt. bank of
Ure, has large sheep fairs : poor Inn,
King's Arms.
The Church of Mcuiham^ not very
interesting, but having a tower, the
lower part of which is late Norman.
The upper part is octagonal, and from
it rises a Dec. spire. There is a good
late Norm. W. portal. At the E.
end of the N. aisle is the elaborate
monument (t«mp. Jas. I.) of Sir
Marmaduke Wyvill and his wife ; he
in armour on the upper shelf, she in
hood on a lower one — ^both of marble.
The churchyard contains the shaft of
a cross of the Norm, period: circ., with
figures of the Saviour and his Apostles
round the top, and other sculptures
298
Boute 22.SmfU(m Park^WeU Ohiurch.
below. In the ch.-jd. are the grave-
stones of JvUfu Cmtar Ibbetton, d.
1817, a landscape artist of some repu-
tation (many of his works are pre-
served at Swinton Park, see poet) ;
and of Charge CuiUy d. 1854, whoee
etchings, especiallv those of the
* Abbejs of Yorkshire,' are of high
excellence.
Masham was the lordship, first
of the Mowbrays, and afterwards
of the Scropes, but no memorials of
either house remain in the church.
It was Lord Scrope of Masham —
IngntoftU, aavige, and Inhnmao cretture"—
who conspired with other lords
against Henry V. when about to sail
frcmi Southampton for the campaign
of Agincourt. — (See Shakspeare^s
« Henry V.*)
Sufintcn Parht S. of Mafiham.
The house, a castellated mansion,
erected in the present cent, by one
of the old Yorkshire family of the
Danbys, to whom it passed by mar-
riage from the Scropes, was sdd 1881.
The estate, whose rental exceeds
12,0002. per ann., extends over a
wild and picturesane grazing district,
with much moorland. The house
contains a habitable suite of state
rooms commanding fine views, and
the pleasure grounds, with abundant
clumps of rhMlddendrons, come close
up to it A small brook, descending
from the more distant deer park, is
dammed up to form a charming small
lake, the resort of wildfowl in win-
ter. By inquiry at the lodge the
tourist may find his way to a re-
markable stone monument (possibly
Druidical). There are three stone
circles; tiie smallest one is roofed
over and has in the centre a large
block or sUb that may have been an
altar. Little or nothing is known of
their origin, and they are well wwthy
investigation by competent archssolo-
gists. To readi them, skirt the park
wall as far as a bridge, then to rt
down hill and along a stream. The
stones stand in a wood 3 m. E. of
Masham.
Within the park is a ravine, called
Quarry CHUf through which the
EUer beck rushes, and is crossed bj a
lofty bridge of 3 pointed arches, cxm-
stmcted by Mr. I)anby at gr^t coet.
A very wide and fine view is com-
manded from a seat on one side of the
The Church of WeU is for the most
part early Dec., with a S. door re-
maining from a Trans.-Norm. build-
ing. It was restored (1854), and
without any great desianction, al-
though the arrangement of Lord
Latimer^s monument was then altered,
and the fragments of stained glass
collected into one window. The
peculiar flat-headed windows of the
nave are characteristic of churches
within the rule of the Nevilles (who
were lords of Snape Castle — see
pogt), and are most conspicuous at
Staindrop, near Baby Castle, where
most of the Neville Earls are buried.
On the N. side of the chancel is a
chantry (now used as the vestry),
which has a priest's room over it.
accessible from without, and with a
window opening to the chancel. The
altar of the chantry remains. At the
£. end of the S. aisle is the monu-
ment, with effigy, of John Neville,
the last Lord Latimer (1596), son of
the Lord Latimer who married (for
his 2nd wife) Queen Catherine Parr.
The monument is covered with the
names of certain Yorkshire gentry,
who seem to have paid a visit of
honour (?) to the tomb, July 9, 1618.
The window above contains some fine
shields of arms of the Dec. period
(Neville, Percv, Ross, &c.), so finely
diapered and designed as to deserve
engraving. On the floor adjoining is
laid a square (with border) of tessel-
ated pavement from a Homan villa
discovered here in 1859 (the rest of
Route 2%~-KirJclingt(m.
299
the villa remains under the sward, un-
touched). Here is also a tomb-slab,
with a sword on one side of a cross,
on the other a hammer and horse-
shoe ; perhaps commemorating an
annonrer (?).
The Tillage, named from a holy
well, dedicated to S. Michael, still to
be seen near the entrance, contains a
hospital founded and supported by
the NeTilles, and their successors the
Cecils, Earls of Exeter — (there are no
remains of importance) and a little
beyond it, W., the lower story of an
E.' Eng. house worth examination.
A vaulted apartment, with 2 central
piers and carved wall-brackets (all
12th cent.), now serves as the fann-
house kitchen. Nothing is known of
its histoiy.
1 m. from Well is Snape CatUCf
now a farm-house, but long a strong-
hold (A the Nevilles, and afterwaids
of the Cecils, Earls of Exeter. It is
approached by a picturesque avenue
d lime-trees ; and the house, with
its ivy -covered tower, and long cur-
tain of grey wall, is worth the
sketcher's attention. It is late Ferp.,
with large Elizabethan additions, and
in plan was a quadrangle with towers
at the comers. On the haU-ceiling
are the arms of Cecil impaling those
of Neville. The interior has been
much changed ; but a chapel (late
Ferp.) remains unaltered. In the
great hall of Snape, says a local tra-
dition, stood a long oaken table, with
hollows sunk in it all round, serving
for plates. A knife and fork were
chained beside each, and the whole
was »* washed down*' at once after
dinner.
Adjoining is Thorpe Perrow ( —
Milbuik, ^^qO* i^ ^ ?^^ ^ about
200 acres. The gardens are large
and fine.
From Melmerby to N. Allerton,
2} m. Binderby Stat.
(L. \\ m. is Kirklington, where
is a good Church (Dec. with fine
Ferp. tower), containing the efiigies
of a knight and lady (14th cent.)
belonging to the house of Mowbray,
and me tomb (with effigy on a high
slab, ugly and cumbersome) of
Sir Christopher Wandesford, temp. ■
Chas. I. He accompanied Strafford to
Ireland, and was himself made De-
?uty on Strafford's leaving. Chas.
. created him Baron Mo'vn>ray and
Musters, and Viscount Castlecomer,
but he would not assume these ho-
nours whilst the king's fortunes were
so depressed, and his grandson was
the first to do so. There are also a
Wandesford brass (1463), and some
fra^ents of stained glass,, among
which is a singular representation of
the Holy Trinify, with 3 heads and
one crown, and in the rt. hand what
seems to be a loaf (the bread of
life?).
The old hall of Wandesford, with
the exception of one wing, was pulled
down by a steward without the
owner's knowledge about 50 years
since. The remaining wing, now a
farm-house, contains one room with
carved panels and an enriched ceil-
ing, temp. Eliz.
Between Sinderby and the river
Swale, the line passes the ch. of
PiekhiU, rt. It is partly Trans.-
Norm., and contains a late parclose
screen with inscription.
The rly. crosses the river Swale,
and has a station at
5 m. Newby Wiske. 4 m. beyond
Newby it reaches
NorthdUerUm Junct. Stat, (see
Bte. 16).
Bail from Mehnerhy Junct. to
Think.
1 J m. BaJderOyy Stat Nearly 1 m.
rt. the tall spire of Baldersby Chwrch
is conspicuous, and will be a good
800
Route 22.— BalderAy—Topdiffe.
guide to the visitor, who should make
a point of seeing one of the best
modern churches in Yorkshire. It
was commenced {Butterfield, archit.)
by the late Lord Downe, who had
shortly before purchased Baldersbv
Park from Mr. Hudson of railway
celebrity. Lord Downe died in 1856
and the ch. was completed in 1858.
It is early Dec. in general character,
with a campanile and lofty spire (165
ft. hig:h). The internal wails are of
red brick, with bands of white stone
inlaid with erey quatrefoils. The
eastern bay of the chancel is divided
from the rest by a shaft, carrying a
peculiar foliated roof rib. AXL the
windows have stained glass — ^by
O'Connor (E.), Preedy (aisles and
clerestory), and WaUn ( W .). Chairs
are used instead of long seats.
The services are choral, and the
doors of the ch. are always open.
In the ch.-yard is a cross on st«ps.
A vicarage, school-house, and cot-
tages surround the ch.-yard, and
group pleasantly with the ch. itself.
BaJderfiby Park (Lord Downe) con-
tains some nne oaks, but the coimtry
here is scarcely picturesque. The
Swale bounds it on the N. It was
known as " Newby Park " when in
Mr. Hudson's possession.
After crossing the Swale we reach
2 m. Topeliffe Stat. The village is
distant 2f m. S. The Church (the
dedication of which to St. Columba
indicates its veiy early foundation,
probably dating from the 6th or 7th
century) has been entirely rebuilt,
and its interest for the antiquaiy
nearly destroyed. It still contains
however, some Trans.-Norm. portions,
and the fine Imus of Thomas de Top-
diffe (1362), with his wife (d, 1391)
It is no doubt of Flemish workman-
ship. Both figures wear mantles,
and the lady has the gorget. The
canopy displays souls, angels, &c.,
as is usual with Flemish work of
this period. On either side is a
shield, displaying what has been
described as a ** chevron between
8 pegtops," a bearing quite in ac-
cordance with the heraldic fancies
of the time. It has, however, been
suggested that these " pegtops "* are
in reality " otelles," a name given to
the iron spike at the lower end of a
pike-staff. The " otelle," at any
rate, has been found nowhere else
in England.
Topeliffe was one of the great
lordships of the Percys, Wm. de
Perci naving received it from the
Conqueror, with 85 other " manon "
in Yorkshire. Their, principal York-
shire castles were here — at spofforth
— at Wressel — and at Leo(xiiield.
near Beverley. A fir-crowned mound
alone marks the site of their house
here, which was situated at ^ Maiden
Bower," 1 m. from the village.
Between Topeliffe and Tliiisk
(2} m.) there is nothing which
demands notice. For
ThiTtik Junct. Stat., see Rte. 1&
B&ttie ^S.—NorAaUerton to Leybum.
301
ROUTE 23.
NORTHALLERTON TO LEYBURN, BT
BEDALE (MIDDLEHAM, BOLTON,
JERVAULX).
A branch of the N.E. IU7.
4 trains dailj in 1 hr. 5 min. The
conntry through which it passes is
interesting, and Lejbnm Teasilj ac-
cessible hy this line) is the best point
from which to explore all the lower
part of WenslejdaJe. A branch line
(Rte. 24) unites Leybum with Hawes
in Wensleydale, and there meets the
line of Midland BI7., which connects
Settle with Carlisle.
At Aindefhy SUejAe {Slat,) the
ch., Dec. with additions, is seen 1.
(Steeple is here used, as it is fre-
quentiy in Yorkshire, to signify the
tower, and not the spire, as in uie S.
and W. of England.) The Church
(restd., 1870) contains some stained-
glass windows by Clayton and Bell,
Within the altar-rails is the hras$
of William Caleys, rector, and
'•confessor to Lord le Scrop." The
Swale, here flowing between flat
banks, is then crossed; and passing
stations at Scrulon and at LeenUng
Ijane, where the rly. crosses the line
of the Koman road which ran from
Isurinm (Boroughbridge) to Cata-
ractonium (Oatterick), we reach (30
min. from Northallerton)
Bedale (Steti.). Inn: The (George.
(The name is possibly from the
honey-bee ; there is a Beedale among
the wooded glens near Hackness.)
The town (Pop. 1145) consists of
one long wide street, with a market
cross remaining in it, and the Church
at its upper end. This (although
it has been restored) is of great
interest, and well deserves a visit
from the ecdesiologist. It is early
Dec. with some Perp. additions, and
others which seem to have been
made in 1556 (temp. Mary). The S.
side of the nave was entirely rebuilt
(after the old design, which is a
somewhat unusual one) in 1855 ; the
plainer arcade N. was only "tooled
over." Adjoining the chancel arch,
at the end of each arcade, is a small
arch, which can hardly be a hagio-
scope, and is difficult of explanation.
The nave clerestory is Perp., as is the
roof, which has not been tampered
with. The chancel roof is also Perp.,
but it has been raised. In the S. aisle
the east window remains untouched,
and is an excellent specimen of early
(geometrical) Dec. The east window
of the chancel (filled with stained
glass by Wailes) has been rebuilt,
it is said, precisely on the original
design, which shows a later Dec.
than the aisle window. Holes for
supporting the rood beam remain on
eacn side of the chancel arch. In
the wall of the N. aisle is the effigy
of a priest (early Dec.) of the Fits-
alan family — ^no doubt, Thos., son of
Brian Fitzalan, who was rector of
Bedale, and living in 1254. In this
aisle also is a remarkable incised slab,
with the rude figure of Thomas Jack-
son of Bedale, merchant, who died
July 1st, 1529, and 2 daughters. In
the S. aisle is an indifferent mont., by
We»tmaeoU^ to Lady Bercsford and
her father, U. Pierse, Esq., of Bedalo
302
Baule ^S.—Bedale—Harnby CcutU.
Hall. The most interesting monn-
luenti in the ch., however, are placed
on either aide the tower arch. On the
N. side are those of Sir Brian Fitzalan,
the viceroy of Edward I. for Scot-
land, and nis wife. The effigy of Sir
Brian is one of the fined tepulehrdl
memoriaU in ilngland, and deserves
the most careftil attention. The
sculptor, whoever he may have been,
ranks with the unknown artist who
designed the noble Alard effigies at
Winchelsea, nearly of the same date.
The lady at his side is not so good.
Her attitude is strained, with the
knees slightly bent towards her
husband. Her long mantle was
coloured pale pink, of which some
trace remains, and from her hand
falls a long; scroll. These effigies were
originally in the S. aisle, at the end
of which was probably the Fitzalan
chantry. On the S. side of the
tower are two unknown effigies,
temp. Edw. III., the design of which
may serve to sliow the great superi-
ority of the earlier artist. In the ch.
are many modern memorial windows
of stained glass.
The tower arch, Dec. and fine,
was opened during the restoration.
The font (modem) is placed within
it. The tower itself is Dec. in the 3
lower stages, Perp. in the upper-
most It was probably the work of
the Fitaalans at a time when Scottish
forays rendered protection necessary,
and was accordingly b^t for defence,
with a portcullis at the foot of the
staircase, "The existence of the
portouUis itself was unknown till it
fell, from the effects of a stroke of
lightning. AU communicati<Hi with
the dock and bells was stopped till
it was hacked away.'*— IF; if. i.
The lower story of the tower con-
tains a chamber with fireplaee and
garderobe seat
Below the ohaacel is a ciypt (the
entrance is from withoat on the S.
ade)» of early Deo. character, retam-
mg its original vaulting, and its stme
altar with the 5 cr<.**c>. Hcrf are
preserved some curioiis CngmeBis of
crosses and of tomb-slafas, fcmid at
different times in the ch. and cli--yard,
which are probably <rf Saxon work-
manship, and, at any rate, indicate
the existence of « ch. on this site
long before the erection of th© pre-
sent building. The antiquary will
deeply regret the " restoration," and
almost rebuilding, of this very fine
ch., especially as the greater part ^
the work is said to have been whoUy
uncalled for.
The Pitzalans were lords of Bedale
Castle, all traces of which have dis-
appeared. The manor afterwards
became the property of the Digbj^,
whose representative was attainted in
Bedale HaU (H. M. Pierse, Esq.)
contains a fine drawing-room, added
in the reign of George IL, 60 ft
long by 30 wide. The ceiling is
much enriched.
Bedale is the best place from which
to visit Hornby Castle 5 m. N., or
Jervaulx Abbey, 5 m. S., since it can
furnish means of conveyance, which
are not to be relied upon at the nearer
Stat, of Jervaulx, 3 m. (Newton-le-
Willows).
Hornby Castle (Duke of Leeds) is
5 m. from Bedale, the nearest place
at which any carriage can be obtamed.
The walk is pleasant, with fine vieirs.
and the pictures at Hornby well de-
serve a visit. The castle is^generallj
to be seen' at all times.
The ch. of Pairu^ Brompkm (re-
stored, 1864) should be seen on thi:
way to Hornby. It contains IVans.-
Norm. work, and the early Dec. wuik
of the choir is of especial valne and
intenat Some stained ^ass remaio^
The ch., ded. to St. Patrick, bekoged
to St. Mary s Abbey. To*.
IBormbtf CadLe^ which belonged
from an early penod to the St
BouU 2S.—Eornby Oadh.
Quintiiis, passed from them by mar-
riage to uie Conjers, thence to the
Darcjs, and from them to the
OsbomeB. (Thomas Osborne was
created Dnke of Leeds by Wm. m.
He was chairman of that «< Com-
mittee of the whole House " which
resolved, on tiie flight of Jas. II., to
place William on &e throne ) The
castle, which, according to Leland,
was before but " a mean thing,** was
rebuilt by William Lord Conyers, in
the early part of the 16th cent,
(hie iTy-covered tower, called " St
Qointin's Tower,** is earlier than
this; bat the greater part of the
castle, although it retains the general
plan of Lord Conyers' building, has
been modernized. It is rarely in-
habited, and has an air of neglect
and discomfort. The park is exten-
sive and well wooded. The views
from it are fine, especially that from
below St. Quintin 8 Tower, ranging
over the vale of Mowbray to York,
with ^the Cleveland and fiambledon
hills in the distance. Under certain
effects of light, especially when light
spring showers are fleeting across
it, tms scene will recall some vast
limdscape by Bnbens or by Turner.
Besides numerous pcxrtraits of
Conyers, of Darcys, and of Osbomes,
the chief pictures to be noted here
Great HaU,—Vandyck: Lord New-
bargh, full length, in black, with
mastiff, very fine ; Earl of Stafford.
Holbein: Lord Burghersh, full
Icn^, with white staff of office;
Karl of Worcester; Earl of Pem-
broke. Sir G. Kneller: Duke of
Schombeig. Velasquez: Marquis of
Montrose (?) on a piebald horse.
He is richly dressed, with a ruff and
(Uunasked armour. In the ears are
(barrings. It seems vei^ doubtful
wiiether this can possibly be a
portrait of Montrose.
BaUard'Saym^^Vandyek : Family
<.'i Chas. I. CanaletH: 4 very flne
Venetian scenes, 2 of them festivals,
with the Bucentaur conspicuous. The
2 others are views from the head of
St. Mark*s Place. These are among
the best Canalettis in England. The
skies are especially clear and beauti-
ful.
Fird Dramng-Boom.—Vandyok:
Earl of Derby (head) fine. Bubem :
The 4 quarters of the globe, with
tiger, crocodile, &c. The family of
Bnbens. Paul Veronese: A music
party, fine. Hogarth: Scene from
the ' Beggar's Opera.'
Second Drawing-Room, — 4 Cana-
lettis, scarcely equal to those in
the billiard-room. Gaepar Powain:
Adoration of the Shepherds, curious.
Sir J, Beynolds : portrait of a boy.
Here also is one of many repetitions
of the remarkable picture at Hampton
Court, usually called the * Famii^ of
Heniy Vn.,"^ and exhibited at S.
Kensington in 1866. Mr. Scharf has
however proved (from an entry in
the catalogue of the pictures of Chas.
I., to whom the Hampton Court ori-
ginal belonged) that the children
represented are really those of Chris-
tian n., King of Denmark — the
youngest beine Christina, afterwards
Duchess of Milan, whom Henry VIII.
wanted to many. Thet picture at
Hampton Court is most probably by
Mabiee ; and it seems likely that
this repetition is also from his hand.
There are others (of more or less
value) at Wilton House, at Sndoley
Castle, at Corsham, and at Long-
ford Castle. As these children wero
nearly reUted to Charles V. (whose
sister Isabella married Christian HX
and as their parents (after the expul-
sion of Christian from Denmark in
1523) took refuge and sojourned for
some time in England, it is quite pro-
bable that these repetitions may have
been sent over as memorials of grati-
tude when the ex-king had settled
again on the Continent.
804
Route 23.-^Bomby Church — Jervaulx Ahbey.
State Bedrwm,—air Q. EneUer:
Lady Elizabeth Harley. TUian:
The 4 Evangoliats.
Adjoining the park is Hornby
Church, chieflj Norm., with a late
parclose screen that retains its paint-
ing of flowers, fruit, and parrots. In
the ch. are 2 early effigies of unknown
knights, and 2 of a Imight and lady,
circ. 1400. On the bascinet of tne
knight are the words " Johan Mare"
(not " Jhesu Maria") ; but in spite of
this he has not been identified.
(One " John Mare " held one quarter
of a knight's fee of the honour of
Richmond in 1218.) There is aJso
a hr(U8 for Thomas Mountfort and
famUy, 1489. Balph Neville, 3rd
Earl of Westmoreland, is buried in
this ch. Wm. Lord Conyers had
married his daughter; his only son
died young, "whereupon," says Le-
land, " the Earl took much thought,
and died at Hornby Castle," 1523.
Cuthbert Tunstall. Bishop of
Durham (1530, died 1559), the friend
of Erasmus, "who only burned
books," and died at Lambeth, in the
nominal custody of Archbp. Parker,
was bom at Hackforth, close without
the park of Hornby Castle. His
brother, Sir Brian Tunstall, was
killed at Flodden. The family
(which took its name from the neigh-
bouring village of Tunstall) was one
of great antiquity here.
(Tou may walk from Hornby by
Brough Hsdl and Catterick to the
Catterick Bridge Stat, on the Rich-
mond Rly. The distance is about
4 m. (see Rte. 25). Catterick
Bridge is the first stat. beyond Rich-
mond.]
CrakehaU Stat., 3 m. from Hornby.
JervatUx Stat, (near Newton-le-
"Willows) is about 3 m. from Jervaulx
Abbey. Pop. 306.
Jisr- or Jor-vatdx (the name,
usually pronounced "Jarvis," is the
Norm.-Bi:. form of Yore, or Uredale)
has suffered more complete demoli-
tion than any other of the greater
Yorkshire abbeys. But scanty frag-
ments remain in the Marquis of Ailes-
bury's grounds. The church has been
levelled with the earth, and only its
eround-plan is discernible from its
foundations. One doorway leading
into the nave of the ch. at one end
retains its arch mouldings. The rains,
which closely adjoin the Ure, are
picturesque with ivy and are well
Kept.
Akar Fitz-Bardolph, a fdlower of
the great Earl of Richmond, gave, in
the reign of Stephen, land for build-
ing a religious house at Fors in Wens-
leydale to Peter de Quincey and cer-
tain other monks from Savigny, who
were then at the Earl's court. With
some difficulty Peter procured leave
to remain at Fors, where a colony
from Byland was to be sent, and the
new house was to be subject to that
abbey. In 1150 monks from Byland
arrived at Fors; but the site was
barren and solitary ; and in 1156
Conan of Brittany, Earl of Richmond,
gave them the meadows by the Ure,
to which they at once removed, and
on which they built the abbey of
Jervaulx.
The monks began to build at once,
and thev seem to have continued
until at least the end of the centarr.
since the existing remains range from
Trans.-Norm. to E. Eng. Little or
nothing was known of the ground-
plan until 1805, when a complete
and most careful examination was
made by direction of Lord AJlesbuij,
to whom the ruins belong. They
had previously been used as a quarry
by the farmers for some miles round,
and for the repair of the high road.
The plan is nearly the same as at
Fountains and otiier Cistercian houses
— ^the cloister court on the S. side of
the nave, the chapter-house on the
E, side of the cloister, the domiiton-
W., and the refectory and kitchen t
BoiUe 23. — Jervaulx Abbey.
805
The Abbot's hoxae was bejrond the
kitchen S.E.
The church was of hurge size, and
contained manj altars. That in the
N. transept remains perfect, with its
5 crosses, and a recess in front, pro-
bably for relics. Before the site of
the high altar is the mutilated effigy
of Lord Fitzhugh (died 1424), a de-
scendant of Akar, the founder of the
first monastery at Fors. l%e Chapter-
howne (48 ft. by 85 ft.), erected most
probably before the close of the 12th
cent., but of strong £. Eng. charac-
ter, was divided into three aisles, as
was usual in Cistercian houses. (It
is so at Fountains, and many others.)
The piUars of grey Nidderdale marble,
3 on each side, remain (their capitals
are worth attention), and the spring-
ers of the roof still retain traces of
Termilion colouring. The chapter-
house was lighted by 3 windows at
its eastern end, and by another at the
£. end of each aisle. Here many of
the abbots were buried; and their
tomb-slabs remain in due order.
The great kitchen contained 3
huge fireplaces. The refectory is
noticeable for its mixture of Norm,
and E. Eng. work. The dormitory
(like that at Fountains^), extended
above a long cloister, the low circ.
arches of which remain in part
The monks of Jervaulx were
famous for their cheese, the proto-
type, no doubt, of the sort now
popukrly known as " Wenaleydale.'*
Ther were no less famous than those
of Coverham for breeding horses ;
and the commissioners of 1537 re-
conmiended the place to the king on
this account. " Surely the breed of
Gervaix,** writes Arthur Darcy, "for
horse was the tried breed in the
NortiL I think in no realm should
be found the like to them ; for there
is hardj and high grounds for the
summer, and in winter woods and
low grounds to fire them." (In the
some letter he says, "Here is one
of the fairest churches that I have
seen "—and the beauty which could
[forltefttfw.] '
force itself on his speculative eye
must sTvely have been extreme.)
The house was thoroughly ruined in
the foUowing year. All the lead
was removed from the roof ; and the
site, with much of the land, granted
by Henry VIII. to the Earl of Lenox
and the "Lady Margaret his wife.'*
The last abbot, Adam Sedburgh, was
hanged in 1537 for his share in the
Pilgrimaee of Grace. He attempted,
as he declared, but in vain, to escape
the importunities of the rebels; and
to avoid them, remained for three
days "in a great crag on Witton
Fell," above the abbey. He was
brought back, however, and com-
peU^ to join them. His sculp-
tured sig^ture remains in the Tower
of London, where he was confined
before his execution at Tyburn.
The gross rental of Jervaulx at the
Dissolution was 455Z., but this was
reduced by out-payments to 2202.
Its scanty remains are in sad contrast
with the splendours of the Abbey in
the days of Prior Ayhner, who figures
so amusingly (though without much
propriety, for the Cistercian houses
were then at the height of their
austerity) in * Ivanhoe.'
John Brompton the chronicler (his
Annals are printed in Twysden's
*Decem Scriptores*) was Abbot of
Jervaulx in 1436. (See Brompton.)
The Marquis of Ailesbury has a
small shooting-lodge near the ruins,
surrounded by pretty gardens.
The tourist may proceed to Ley-
bum, 6 m., by Covethridgt (over the
Cover), and, close to it, Ulshawbridffe,
over the Ure, where are the Sdce
Mills, to which the inhabitants of
Middleham are obliged to bring their
com to be ground. Thence the i^
runs by Spennithome and Harmby to
Levburo.
Passing the UnghaU Lane Stat.,
the next,
Conriahle Burton Stat., will be
the most convenient for the anti-
quary who desires to visit the ch. of
Haftxwea(2im,l^.}. The road skurts
X
306
Baude 23. — Spennithorne — Leyhum,
Burton Park (M. Wyvill, Esq.), and
then proceeds through a pleasant
coontiy to HauxweU, where the
Churdi, situated at some distance from
the village, has E. £ng. portions. The
S. door of the nave is Trans.-Nonn.,
with ornamented arch mouldings and
tympanum. A chapel on the N. side
contains a flagstone marked B. B.,
said to mark the grave of Boger de
Brough, who, being exconununi-
cated, founded this chapel, which
has an aperture commanding the
altar. (It need hardly be said that
the story is most improbable.) In
the ch. is some ancient wood-work,
and one or two fragments of early
(Saxon) sculpture. The ch.-yard has
some stone coffins ; the effigies of an
unknown knight and his wue, temp.
Edw. I.; and a remarkable Cross
5 ft. 3 in. high, covered with the
interlaced ornament which indicates
Saxon work of early character. The
ch. is ded. to St. Oswald.
Adjoining the ch. is HauxweU
HdU (MiaaQaXe).
There is little to delay the tourist
at Spennithorne Stat. The church
has Norm, piers on the S. side of
nave, but is for the most part Dec.
The tower has figures on the battle-
ments S. looking towards Middleham
— ^perhaps a stratagem of defence, to
appear as if the tower were guarded.
The sedile — one long stone seat with
ends — is unusual. John Hutchinson,
the author of ' Moses's Principia,'
was bom here in 1674 (died 1737).
He was the propounder of a special
set of doctrmes called "Hutchin-
sonian," the leading feature of which
was, that all knowledge, natural as
well as theological, is contained in
the Hebrew Scriptures, — although
mysteriously involved in roots and
etymologies. His book was intended
to " explode " the theory of gravita-
tion established in Newton's *Prin-
cipia.*
A few minutes after leaving
Spennithorne the train reaches
Leyhum Stat. {Inn : "^Bolton Arms
— ^the best in the district, well kept,
clean, moderate, but small. Pc^-
horses and carriages.
Leyhum is a small town (Pop. in
1871, 888), on the N. bank of the Ure,
in the Dale and parish of Wensley,
with a small ch., built by subscription
in 1868, and a town-hall, bnut in
1857. The North Eastern Co. rly.,
from Leyhum to Hawes, in Upper
Wensleydale, joins the Midland msn
London to Carlisle 7 m. beyond Hawes.
Here the tourist finds hmoself on the
edge of the great mountain district
which stretches N. toward Bichmond
and Barnard Castle, and S., skirtmg
Coverdale and Nidderdale, to Wharf-
dale. (This district may be said
broadly to extend hence to the sea.
ranging through the counties of
W^moreland and Cumberland, and
northward through Durham .into
Northumberland. Southward it ex-
tends through Lancashire into Derby-
shire, and forms what is known as the
" Pennine range " — the " backbone of
England."— See Introd.)
Leyhum will be found an exceUent
centre for exploring the lower part
of Wensleydale (Bte. 24). The cSiief
places to be visited from here are —
Wensleydale, upwards, BoUon CasUe.
and as far as Aysgarthy Askrigg^ and
Eavjes; down the Vale to Middle-
ham, Coverdale and Jervaulx Ahbeyf,
and a portion of Sujaleddls between
Leyhum and Bichmond.
First, however, the tourist must
find his way to the Shawl — a green
terrace about a mile long, running
along the N. side of the valley above
the Bolton Woods. It is entered by
a gate § m. from Leyhum, ascending
the road to Beeth — ^a walk along the
foot of a steep " scar " of rock, over-
looking the entrance of Wensleydale.
The view here — one of the finest in
the N. of England — ^will give him
an excellent general idea of the
country he is aw)ut to explore. The
Shawl itself (the lower banks, and
Baute 23.— SRddleham: CatOe.
807
the elefts of the scar, are clothed
with coppice, and the name may be
connectea with shaw^wood) forms
the N. side of the valley, through
which the stream of the Ure winds
towards the S.E. In this direction
a wide extent of rich country opens
towards Masham, with Middleham
Castle (see poft) rising above the
river. Immediately below are the
ch. and village of Wensley, and the
woods and plantations of Bolton
Hall; and across the cultivated
valley S., the flat tq> of Pen Hill
(see Rte. 24) is conspicuous; with
the hoUow of Bishopdale winding up
behind it. A little to the N.W. rise
the crumbling towers of Bolton
Castle, backed with dark moors.
The contrast of this wild country
with the rich valley below renders
the whole scene unusually striking.
At the £. end of the Shawl there is
a fine immediate foreground of rock
and wood, and the short turf is
covered in autumn with the flowers
of a small yellow cistus. About half-
way along the walk is the Queen^a Gap^
where the terrace narrows between
rocks. At this spot, says tradition,
Queen Mary of Scotland was stopped,
when attempting to escape during her
detention at BoUon Castle (see fod).
Such an attempt was in all probaoility
never made, although the Shawl may
have been visited by the queen, who,
whilst at Bolton, was allowed to ride
forth ** hunting and hawking " under
due supervision. Searth Ne£j a much
higher point, where the road from
Atfrigg to Richmond passes, and the
view is still more extrasive, may be
reached from the Shawl.
(a) MiddUham (Castle and Church)
Cooerhcaoh Abbey and Jervaulx Abbey,
may be visited in one excursion.
Middleham (2) m. from Leybum)
stands on the rt. bank of the Ure,
which is here crossed by an iron
bridge. (i»»: Swan; there are
others.) The town is clean and open.
and is well known as the head-
quarters of many race-harse trainers,
whose horses are exercised on the
moor above, between 6 and 7 ▲.!!., —
a performance which many visitors
may like to see.
On the top of the hill are the
ruins of Middleham Cartle famous
as the stronghold of Warwick the
king -maker — the *'last of the
Barons," — and as the favourite resi-
dence of his son-in-law, Richard m.
It was founded by Robert Fitz-
Ranulph, grandson of Ribald, who
was brother of Alan of Brittany, the
first Earl of Richmond after the
Conquest, and passed in the 13th
cent, by marriage to the family of
Neville. Except Raby, Middleham
was the most important of the many
great castles held by the Nevilles in
the N. The ruins now consist of a
great Norm, keep (the work of the
Fitz-Ranulphs) within outer works
of the Dec. period ; all of which have
evidently been destroyed or much
dunaged by gunpowder. (The com-
mittee at York, during the civil
war, ordered the castle to be made un-
tenantable.) The keep, of the 12th
cent., has square comer turrets with
very little projection ; and others, of
bolder character, in the centre of two
of its sides. A wall of division, as
usual in Norm, keeps, runs across its
interior. The great hall was on the
E. side of the 1st floor ; with an en-
trance from the barbican tower.
This tower, as at Rochester, Scar-
borough, and elsewhere, is rect-
angular, and built against the keep,
about 12 ft. from the S. end of the
E. face. On the 2nd floor of the
barbican was the chapel and the
vestibule at the top of the stairs
leading to the keep. Halfway up
the staircase is a large cavity,
capable of holding 20 men, evi-
dently as a guard in case the en-
trance should be forced. The keep
has a basement floor at the ground-
level ; a first or state floor, with the
X 2
806
Bottte 23. — SpennUhome — Leyhum,
Burton Park (M. WyviXl, Esq.), and
then proceeds through a pleasant
coontiy to Hauxwell, where the
Churtii^ situated at some distance from
the village, has £. £ng. portions. The
S. door of the nave is Trans.-Nonn.,
with ornamented arch mouldings and
tympanum. A chapel on the N. side
contains a flagstone marked R. B.,
said to mark the grave of Boger de
Brough, who, heing excommuni-
cated, founded this chapel, which
has an aperture conunanding the
altar. (It need hardly be said that
the stoiy is most improbable.) In
the ch. is some ancient wood- work,
and one or two fragments of early
(Saxon) sculpture. The ch.-yard has
some stone coffins ; the effigies of an
unknown knight and his wife, temp.
Edw. I.; and a remarkable Crws
5 ft. 3 in. high, covered with the
interlaced ornament which indicates
Saxon work of early character. The
ch. is ded. to St. Oswald.
Adjoining the ch. is Hauxwell
HaU (Miss Gale).
There is little to delay the tourist
at Spennithome Stat. The church
has Norm, piers on the S. side of
nave, but is for the most part Dec.
The tower has figures on the battle-
ments S. looking towards Middleham
— ^perhaps a stratagem of defence, to
appear as if the tower were guarded.
The sedile — one long stone seat with
ends — is unusual. John Hutchinson,
the author of * Moses s Principia,'
was bom here in 1674 (died 1737).
He was the propounder of a special
set of doctnnes called **Hntchin-
Bonian," the leading feature of which
was, that all knowledge, natural as
well as theological, is contained in
the Hebrew Scriptures, — although
mysteriously involved in roots and
etymologies. His book was intended
to *' explode " the theoiy of gravita-
tion established in Newton's *Prin-
cipia.'
A few minutes after leaving
Spennitiiome the train reaches
Leyhum Stat (Inn : ^Bolton Arms
— ^the best in the district, well kept,
clean, moderate, but small. Past-
horses and carriages.
Leybum is a small town (Pop. in
1871, 888), on the N. bank of the LTre,
in the Dale and parish of Wensley,
with a small ch., built by subscription
in 1868, and a town-hall, bout in
1857. The North Eastern CJo. rly.,
from Leybum to Hawes. in Upper
Wensleydale, joins the Midland mm
London to Carlisle 7 m. beyond Hawes.
Here the tourist finds himself on the
edge of the great mountain district
which stretches N. toward Bichmond
and Barnard Castle, and S., skirting
Coverdale and Nidderdale, to Wharf-
dale. (This district may be said
broadly to extend hence to the sea,
ranging through the counties of
Westmoreland and Cumberland, and
northward through Durham .into
Northumberland. Southward it ex-
tends through Lancashire into Derby-
shire, and forms what is known as tie
" Pennine range " — the " backbone of
England."— See Introd.)
Leybum will be found an excellent
centre for exploring the lower part
of Wensleydale (Bte. 24). The chief
places to be visited from here are —
Wensleydale^ upwards, BoUon CkuUe.
and as far as Aysgarth, Askrigg, and
Eawes; down the Vale to Middle-
"ham^ Coverdale and Jervaulx Abbeif$,
and a portion of Suxdedale between
Leybum and Bichmond.
First, however, the tourist must
find his way to the ShauH—A green
terrace about a mile long, running
along the N. side of the valley above
the Bolton Woods. It is entered by
a gate ^ m. from Leybum, ascending
the road to Beeth — a walk along the
foot of a steep ** scar " of rock, over-
looking the entrance of Wensleydale.
The view here — one of the finest in
the N. of England — will give him
an excellent general idea of the
countiy he is aTOut to explore. The
Shawl itself (the lower banks, and
BaiUeid.—Middleham: CasOe.
807
the defts of the scar, are clothed
with coppice, and Ihe name maj he
connected with «ftato=wood) forms
the N. side of the vallej, through
which the stream of the Ure winds
towards the S.E. In this direction
a wide extent of rich country opens
towards Masham, with Middlenam
Castle (see poU) rising above the
river. Immediately below are the
ch. and village of Wenslej, and the
woods and plantations of Bolton
Hall ; and across the cultivated
vallej S., the flat top of Pen Hill
(see Bte. 24) is conspicuous; with
the hollow of Bishopdale winding up
behind it. A little to the N.W. rise
the crumbling towers of Bolton
Castle, backed with dark moors.
The contrast of this wild country
with the rich valley below renders
the whole scene unusually striking.
At the £. end of the Shawl there is
a fine immediate foreground of rock
and wood, and the short turf is
covered in autumn with the flowers
of a small yellow cistus. About half-
way along the walk is the QiieerCs (?ap,
where the terrace narrows between
rocks. At this spot, says tradition.
Queen Mary of Scotland was stopped,
when attempting to escape during her
detention at Bolton Castle (see vod)-
Such an attempt was in all probability
never made, aUhough the shawl may
have been visited hj the queen, who,
whilst at Bolton, was allowed to ride
forth " hunting and hawking " under
due supervision. Soarth Neck, a much
higher point, where the road from
A^crigg to Richmond passes, and the
view is still more extensive, may be
reached from the Shawl.
(a) MiddUham (Castle and Church)
Caverham Abbey and JervatUx Abbey,
may be visited m one excursion.
MtddUiham (2} m. from Leybum)
stands on the rt. bank of the Ure,
which is here crossed by an iron
bridge. (i»»: Sujon; there are
others.) The town is clean and open.
and is well known as the head-
quarters of many race-horse trainers,
whose horses are exercised on the
moor above, between 6 and 7 ▲.!!., —
a performance which many visitors
may like to see.
On the top of the hill are the
ruins of MiddUham Caitle famous
as the stronghold of Warwick the
king -maker — the ** last of the
Barons,'* — and as the favourite resi-
dence of his son-in-law, Bichard HI.
It was founded by Bobert Fitz-
Banulph, grandson of Ribald, who
was brother of Alan of Brittany, the
first Earl of Richmond after the
Conquest, and passed in the 13th
cent, by marriage to the family of
Neville. Except Raby, Middleham
was the most important of the many
great castles held by the Nevilles in
the N. The ruins now consist of a
great Norm, keep (the work of the
Fitz-Ranulphs) witiiin outer works
of the Dec. period ; all of which have
evidently been destroyed or much
damaged by gunpowder. (The com-
mittee at York, during the civil
war, ordered the castle to be made un-
tenantable.) The keep, of the 12th
cent., has square comer turrets with
very little projection ; and others, of
bolder character, in the centre of two
of its sides. A wall of division, as
usual in Norm, keeps, runs across its
interior. The great hall was on the
E. side of the 1st floor ; with an en-
trance from the barbican tower.
This tower, as at Rochester, Scar-
borough, and elsewhere, is rect-
angular, and built against the keep,
about 12 ft. from the S. end of the
E. face. On the 2nd floor of the
barbican was the chapel and the
vestibule at the top of the stairs
leading to the keep. Halfway up
the staircase is a large caviiy,
capable of holding 20 men, evi-
dently as a guard in case the en-
trance should be forced. The keep
has a basement floor at the ground-
level ; a first or state floor, with the
X 2
806
Bouie 23. — Spennithome — Leyhum.
Burton Park (M. Wyvill, Esq.), and
then proceeds through a pleasant
conntiy to HauxweU, where the
Churdi^ situated at some distance from
the village, has E. Eng. portions. The
S. door of the nave is Trans.-Norm.,
with ornamented arch mouldings and
tympanum. A chapel on the N. side
contains a flagstone marked B. B.,
said to mark the grave of Boger de
Brough, who, being excommuni-
cated, founded this chapel, which
has an aperture commanding the
altar. (It need hardlj be said that
the stoiy is most improbable.) In
the ch. is some ancient wood-work,
and one or two fragments of early
(Saxon) sculpture. The ch.-jard has
some stone coffins ; the effigies of an
unknown knight and his wife, temp.
Edw. I.; and a remarkable Crws
5 ft. 3 in. high, covered with the
interlaced ornament which indicates
Saxon work of early character. The
ch. is ded. to St. Oswald.
Adjoining the ch. is Hauxtoell
HaU (Miss Gale).
There is little to delay the tourist
at Spennithome Stat. The church
has Norm, piers on the S. side of
nave, but is for the most part Dec.
The tower has figures on the battle-
ments S. looking towards Middleham
— ^perhaps a stratagem of defence, to
appear as if the tower were guarded.
The sedile — one long stone seat with
ends — is unusual. John Hutchinson,
the author of ^ Moses*s Principia,*
was bom here in 1674 (died 1737).
He was the propounder of a special
set of doctrines called "Hutchin-
sonian,'* the leading feature of which
was, that all knowledge, natural as
well as theological, is contained in
the Hebrew Scriptures, — although
mysteriously involved in roots and
etymologies. His book was intended
to " explode " the theory of gravita-
tion established in Newton's *Prin-
cipia.'
A few minutes after leaving
Spennithome the train reaches
Leyhum Stat. (Inn : *Bolt(Hi Arms
— ^the best in the district, well kept,
clean, moderate, but small. Post-
horses and carriages.
Leyhum is a small town (Pop. in
1871, 888), on the N. bank of theUre,
in the Dale and parish of Wensley,
with a small ch., built by subscription
in 1868, and a town-hall, bnOt in
1857. The North Eastem Co. rly.,
from Leybum to Hawes, in Upper
Wensleydale, joins the Midland from
London to Carusle 7 m. beyond Hawes.
Here the tourist finds himself on the
edge of the great mountain district
which stretches N. toward BichmoDd
and Barnard Castle, and S., skirting
Coverdale and Nidderdale, to Wharf-
dale. (This district may be said
broadly to extend hence to the sea,
ranging through the counties of
Westmoreland and Oumberland, and
northward through Durham .into
Northumberland. Southward it ex-
tends through Lancashire into Derby-
shire, and forms what is known as the
" Pennine range " — the " backbone of
England." — See Introd.)
Leybum will be found an exceUent
centre for exploring the lower part
of Wensleydale (Bte. 24). The chief
places to be visited from here are —
Wensleydalet upwards, Sclton CagUe,
and as far as Aysgarth., Askrigg, and
Hawes; down the Vale to Middk-
ham, Coverdale and Jervatdx Abbefft,
and a portion of Sioaledale between
Leybum and Bichmond.
First, however, the tourist must
find his way to the ShauH—a. green
terrace about a mile long, running
along the N. side of the valley above
the Bolton Woods. It is entered bv
a gate § m. from Leybum, ascending
the road to Beeth — a walk along the
foot of a steep " scar " of rock, over-
looking the entrance of Wensleydale.
The view here — one of the finest in
the N. of England — will give him
an excellent general idea of the
country he is a£)ut to explore. The
Shawl itself (the lower banks, and
B(mU2S.—Middleham: CasOe.
807
the clefts of the scar, are clothed
with coppice, and the name maj be
connected with aftafo=wood) forms
the N. side of the valley, through
which the stream of the Ure winds
towards the S.E. In this direction
a wide extent of rich couniay opens
towards Masham, with Middleham
Castle (see poft) rising above the
river. Immediately below are the
ch. and village of Wenslej, and the
woods and plantations of Bolton
Hall; and across the cultivated
vallej S., the flat top of Pen Hill
(see Rte. 24) is conspicnons; with
the hollow of Bishopdale winding np
hehind it. A little to the N.W. rise
the cnunbling towers of Bolton
Castle, backed with dark moors.
The contrast of this wild country
with the rich valley below renders
the whole scene unusually striking.
At the £. end of the Shawl there is
a fine immediate foreground of rock
and wood, and the short turf is
covered in autumn with the flowers
of a small yellow cistus. About half-
way along the walk is the Queen^s Gap,
where the terrace narrows between
rocks. At this spot, says tradition,
Qneen Mary of Scotland was stopped,
when attempting to escape during her
detention at Bolton Castle (see vod).
Such an attempt was in all probability
never made, although the Shawl may
have been visited hy the queen, who,
whilst at Bolton, was allowed to ride
forth ** hunting and hawking " under
due supervision. Searth Netk, a much
hiffher point, where the road from
A»ri^gto Bichmond passes, and the
view IS still more extensive, may be
reached from the Shawl.
(a) Middleham (Castle and Church)
Caoerham Ahbey and JervavHx Mhey,
may be visited m one excursion.
Middleham (2} m. from Leybum)
stands on the rt. bank of the Ure,
which is here crossed by an iron
bridge, (inn: Swan; there are
others.) The town is clean and open,
and is well known as the head-
quarters of many race-horse trainers,
whose hoFBes are exercised on the
moor above, between 6 and 7 ▲.]!., —
a performance which many visitors
may like to see.
On the top of the hill are the
ruins of Middleham Caitle famous
as the stronghold of Warwick the
king -maker — the *<last of the
Barons," — and as the favourite resi-
dence of his son-in-law, Richard HE.
It was founded by Robert Fitz-
Ranulph, grandson of Ribald, who
was brother of Alan of Brittany, the
first Earl of Richmond after the
Conquest, and passed in the 13th
cent, by marriage to the family of
Neville. Except Raby, Middleham
was the most important of the many
great castles held by the Nevilles in
the N. The ruins now consist of a
great Norm, keep (the work of the
Fitz-Ranulphs) within outer works
of the Dec. period ; all of which have
evidently been destroyed or much
damaged by gunpowder. (The com-
mittee at X orx, during the civil
war, ordered the castle to be made un-
tenantable.) The keep, of the 12th
cent., has square comer turrets with
very little projection ; and others, of
bolder character, in the centre of two
of its sides. A wall of divisi<u, as
usual in Norm, keeps, runs across its
interior. The great hall was on the
E. side of the 1st floor ; with an en-
trance from the barbican tower.
This tower, as at Rochester, Scar-
borough, and elsewhere, is rect-
angular, and built against the keep,
about 12 ft. bom the S. end of the
E. face. On the 2nd floor of the
barbican was the chapel and the
vestibule at the top of the stairs
leading to the keep. Halfway up
the staircase is a large cavity,
capable of holding 20 men, evi-
dently as a guard in case the en-
trance should be forced. The keep
has a basement floor at the ground-
level ; a first or state floor, with the
X 2
306
Boute 23. — Spennithome — Leyhum.
Burton Park (M. Wyvill, Esa.), and
then proceeds through a pleasant
country to HauxweU, where the
Churtiit situated at some distance from
the village,ha8 E. Eng. portions. The
S. door of the nave is Tran8.-Norm.,
with ornamented arch mouldings and
tympanum. A chapel on the N. side
contains a flagstone marked R. B.,
said to mark the grave of Boger de
Brough, who, being exconmiuni-
cated, founded this chapel, which
has an aperture commanding the
altar. (It need hardly he said that
the story is most improbable.) In
the ch. is some ancient wood-work,
and one or two fragments of early
(Saxon) sculpture. The ch.-yard has
some stone coffins ; the effigies of an
unknown knight and his wife, temp.
Edw. L; and a remarkable Ooss
5 ft. 3 in. high, covered with the
interlaced ornament which indicates
Saxon work of early character. The
ch. is ded. to St. Oswald.
Adjoining the ch. is HauxweU
^oU (Miss Gale).
There is little to delay the tourist
at SpenniUhome Stat. The church
has Korm. piers on the S. side of
nave, but is for the most part Dec.
The tower has figures on the battle-
ments S. looking towards Middleham
— ^perhaps a stratagem of defence, to
appear as if the tower were guarded.
The sedile — one long stone seat with
ends — is unusual. John Hutchinson,
the author of ^ Moseses Principia,'
was bom here in 1674 (died 1737).
He was the propounder of a special
set of doctnnes called "Hutchin-
sonian," the leading feature of which
was, that all knowledge, natural as
well as theological, is contained in
the Hebrew Scriptures, — although
mysteriously involved in roots and
etymologies. His book was intended
to " explode " the theoiy of gravita-
tion established in Newton's *Prin-
cipia.'
A few minutes after leaving
Spennitiiome the train reaches
Leyhum Stat, (Inn : ^Bolton Arms
— ^the best in the district, well kept,
clean, moderate, but small. Post-
horses and carriages.
Leybum is a small town (Pop. in
1871, 888), on the N. bank of the IJi«.
in the Dale and parish of Wensley.
with a small ch., built by subscription
in 1868, and a town-hall, bout in
1857. The North Eastern O). riy..
from Leybum to Hawes, in Upper
Wensleydale, joins the Midland mm
London to Carlisle 7 m. beyond Hawes.
Here the tourist finds himself on the
edge of the great mountain district
which stretches N. toward Bichmond
and Bamard Castle, and S., skirting
Coverdale and Nidderdale, to Wharf-
dale. (This district may be said
broadly to extend hence to the sea.
ranging through the counties of
W^tmoreland and Cumberland, and
northward through Durham .into
Northumberland. Southward it ex-
tends through Lancashire into Derbv-
shire, and fomos what is known as tlie
" Pennine range " — the " backbone of
England."— See Introd.)
Leybum will be found an excellent
centre for exploring the lower part
of Wensleydale (Bte. 24). The chief
places to be visited from here are —
WensUydaUf upwards, SdUon Cadle.
and as far as Ay^garth, Askriggt and
Eaioes; down the Vale to MiddU-
Jiam, CoverdaXe and Jervatdx Ahbeytt,
and a portion of SuniledaiU between
Leybum and Bichmond.
First, however, the tourist must
find his way to the Shaid-^A green
terrace about a mile long, running
along the N. side of the valley above
the Bolton Woods. It is entered by
a gate § m. from Leybum, ascending
the road to Beeth — a walk along the
foot of a steep " scar " of rock, over-
looking the entrance of Wensleydale.
The view here — one of the finest in
the N. of England — will give him
an excellent general idea of the
country he is aTOut to explore. The
Shawl itself (the lower banks, and
BoiUe 23.— MiddUhcm: CatOe.
807
the elefts of the scar, are clothed
with coppice, and the name may he
connectea with shaw^wood) fomis
the N. side of the vallej, through
which the stream of the Ure winds
towards the S.E. In this direction
a wide extent of rich comitry opens
towards Masham, with MicJdlenam
Castle Qiee post) rising above the
river. Immediately below are the
ch. and village of Wenslej, and the
woods and plantations of Bolton
Hall; and across the cultivated
valley S., the flat top of Pen Hill
(see Rte. 24) is conspicuous ; with
the hollow of Bishopdaie winding up
behind it. A litUe to the N.W. rise
the crumbling towers of Bolton
Castle, backed with dark moors.
The contrast of this wild country
with the rich valley below renders
the whole scene unusually striking.
At the £. end of the Shawl there is
a fine immediate foreground of rock
and wood, and the short turf is
covered in autumn with the flowers
of a small yellow cistus. About half-
way along the walk is the Queen^a Oap,
where the terrace narrows between
rocks. At this spot, says tradition,
Queen Mary of Scotland was stopped,
when attempting to escape during her
detention at BoUon Castle (see fod).
Such an atteinpt was in all jDrobability
never made, although the Shawl may
have been visited by the queen, who,
whilst at Bolton, was allowed to ride
forth ** hunting and hawking " under
due supervision. Searlh Netk^ a much
higher point, where the road from
Auriggto Richmond passes, and the
view is still more extensive, may be
reached from the Shawl.
(a) MiddUham (Castle and Church)
Qwerham Ahbey and Jervaulx Abbey,
may be visited in one excursion.
MiddUham (2} m. from Leybum)
stands on the rt. bank of the Ure,
which is here crossed by an iron
bridge, (inn: Swan; there are
others.) The town is clean and open,
and is well known as the head-
quarters of many race-harse trainers,
whose horses are exercised on the
moor above, between 6 and 7 AJC.^ —
a performance which many visitors
may like to see.
On the tcm of the hiU are the
ruins of MiddJUiham Ciarffa famous
as the stronghold of Warwick the
king -maker — the *<last of the
Barons,'* — and as the favourite resi-
dence of his son-in-law, Bichard HE.
It was founded by Robert Fitz-
Ranulph, grandson of Ribald, who
was brother of Alan of Brittany, the
first Earl of Richmond after the
Conquest, and passed in the 13th
cent, by marriage to the family of
Neville. Except Rabv, Middleham
was the most important of the many
great castles held by the Nevilles in
the N. The ruins now consist of a
great Norm, keep (the work of the
Fitz-Ranulphs) within outer works
of the Dec. period ; all of which have
evidently been destroyed or much
damaged by gunpowder. (The com-
mittee at York, during the civil
war, ordered the castle to be made un-
tenantable.) The keep, of the 12th
cent., has square comer turrets with
very little projection ; and others, of
bolder character, in the centre of two
of its sides. A wall of division, as
usual in Norm, keeps, runs across its
interior. The great hall was on the
E. side of the 1st floor ; with an en-
trance from the barbican tower.
This tower, as at Rochester, Scar-
borough, and elsewhere, is rect-
angular, and built against the keep,
about 12 ft. from the S. end of tiie
E. face. On the 2nd floor of the
barbican was the chapel and the
vestibule at the top of the stairs
leading to the keep. Halfway up
the staircase is a large cavity,
capable of holding 20 men, evi-
dently as a guard in case the en-
trance should be forced. The keep
has a basement floor at the ground-
level ; a first or state floor, with the
X 2
808
Bout^ 2S.^Middleham : CJiurch,
hall; and on the £. side an upper
floor. A well-stair ascended in the
S.E. angle from the basement to
the battlements. The buttresses at
the angles no doubt rose above the
battlements into reetanffolar turrets.
This Norman keep (about 55 ft.
high to the base of the parapet)
stands in the centre of an enceintet
or curtain-wall, about 80 ft. high,
the area between which and the
keep must always have been limited,
but which was further narrowed by
domestic buildings of the Dec. period
placed against the curtains on the
N.W. and S. sides, and which re-
duced the ward to a mere passage.
The Norm, enceinte wall was greatly
altered, if not rebuilt, at this time ;
and the gatehouse, at the N.E. angle,
is Dec. The builder of this Dbc.
castle was either Robert Nevile,
called the <' Peacock of the North,''
who died before 1831, or Balph, Lord
Nevile of Baby, his brother and suc-
cessor, who died 1867. Some altera-
tions were made in the castle by
Richard Duke of York (Rich, m.),
who obtained Middleham after the
battle of Bamet, and was much
here. The large window opening
on the W. face of the keep, and per-
haps the upper stoir on tne E. side
of the keep are of his time. (See
G. T. a, in the * Builder,* April
13, 1872, for a full notice of this
castle.) The buildings in the ward
of the Dec. period have been so
completely ruined that their arrange-
ments can no longer be traced ; but
from a survey of the castle taken
upwards of diOO years since, it ap-
peared that there was a tower above
the gate, and a mantel wall from it
to the first tower. Near this were
the chapel and brewhouse.
liiddleham Castle is hardly pic-
turesque, but it stands grandly on the
height, and is imposing from its mas-
sive roasoniy, and waUs 10-12 ft.
thick. It is more interesting from its
history and associations than from its
actual remains. The only son d
Richard III., by the La^ Anne,
daughter of the Earl of Warwick,
was bom here in 1473, and died hoe
**morte infausta" as Rous says, April
9th, 1484. However Richard may
have been regarded elsewhere, he was
always popular in Yorkshire, and
Middlehtun was often visited by him.
('< The memory of Kine Richard was
so strong in the north,^ wrote Bacon,
" that it lay, like lees, in the bottom
of men's hearts, and if the vessel
was but stirred it would come np.^
-^Life of Henry FiT.) Whether,
as has been asserted, Edward IT.
was detained here as a pnsooer
by "Warwick in 1469, is not cer-
tain. Holinshed asserts that the
Earl ^< caused King Edward to be
conveyed by secret journeys in the
night from Warwick to Middleham,*'
where he was detained in the custody
of the Archbp. of York (Warwick's
brother). He escaped — according to
the same chronicler — ^by the strata-
eem of the Stanleys and other
mends, who, one day, as he was
hunting with the Archbp., " mot him
on a plain with such a great band of
men, that his keepers durst not move
him to return into prison again.*"
On the other hand, it has been
proved that many acts of kingly
authority were performed as osnal
by Edward at the very time when
he is represented as havlne been a
prisoner. Sir E. B. Lytton has taken
a different view of the matter in his
'Last of the Barons,* many scenes
in which are laid at Middleham:
but this most confused portion of
English history has yet to be satisfac-
toruy unravelled.
The Churdi (restored) dating for
the most part early in the 18th cent
with additions fA late Dec character,
is of no very great interest. There
are some fragments of ancient glass,
commemoratmg St. Alkelda (of
whom nothing is known — the ch. is
dedicated to her and to St Maiy.
Boute 28. — Oovei'ham.
80d
Oigglesworth ch. (Bte. 32) is also
dedicated to St. Alkelda). Against
the W. wall of the S. aisle is the
tomb-slab of Robert Thornton, last but
one of the Abbots of Jervaulx. It
bears the mitre, staff, and rebus — (a
thorn and tun — the diapering of the
centre is formed of thorn-leaves) of
the abbot. The view from the roof
or tower is the finest in the district.
Bichard m., when Duke of Gloucester,
wished to make the ch. collegiate,
and intended to have endowed it
accocdingly. His design, however,
was frustrated by his death at Bos-
worth ; although the incumbent was
fltjled "Dean of Middleham " as
head of the college, until the death
of the late Dr. Wood in 1856. Charles
KingaLej was a canon of the once
collegiate ch. of Middleham.
Many fragments from Jervaulx are
scattered about the town. A stone
sculptured with the Crucifixion re-
mains over the inner door of the S,
porch of the ch.
MiddUham Moor, at the back of the
castle, has long been a famous train-
ing ground lor racers. A great
cattle fair is held on it in November,
and is attended hy traders from both
sides of the border. On the moor,
about \ m. from the castle, are the
mounds and trenches of a large camp
(?) called "William's HUl"— which
has been considered Danish, but may
be of a much earlier period.
A cross road will lead the tourist
from Middleham to Coverham (2 m.),
where the scanty remains of the
prioiy are worth a visit. Coverham
IS the chief village of Coverdale, a
long narrow dale through which the
str^m of the Cover descends from
the ridge of watershed between
Wharfe£le and the lower part of
Wensleydale. (The Ck>ver joins the
Ure about 1 m. W. of Middleham.)
Cknerham Abbey, on the border of
the stream, was founded for Fremon-
stratensian Canons, by Helewyse,
daughter of Banulph de Glanville,
the great justiciary of Heniy 11^
and then the widow of Bobert Fits-
Banulph, who buUt the Nonn. por-
tion of Middleham Castle. Her found-
ation was made in 1190 at Swainby,
near Pickhall : but her son, Banulph
Fitz-Bobert; removed the canons to
Ck)verham about the year 1212, to-
gether with the remains of Helewyse,
who had been buried at Swainby.
He conveyed to them the ch. of
(yoverham with much land ; and was
buried in the abbey. It is stated in
a charter of Edw. U. (dated March 1,
1321) that the monastery had been
destroyed by the Scots ; and in 1380
the poverty of the house was so great
that the canons feared a dispenion.
The GatehoutSj and three bays of
the nave, are the chief relics at
Coverham, and are of Dec. character.
The foundations of the entire ch.,
of the cloister and adjoining build-
ings, are traceable; and two cross-
legged effigies among the ruins (re-
moved from their original positions
in the chapter-house) possibly re-
present Banulph Fits-Bobert — died
1251 — ^who removed the abbey, and
his son Balph— died 1270. This
latter effiey (figured by Oough, i. 18)
is " considerably inclined to the left,
on which side are three dogs, one
playfully biting the scabbard of his
master's sword, while the two others
are keenly pursuing a stag into Ibe
recesses of a deep wood." The
domestic buildings ox the abbey seem
to have been rebuUt early in the 16th
cent.; and from a sculptured . stone
inserted in the adjacent house it ap-
pears that Abbot John Askew finished
much of this work. It bears the
figure of an eagle (John) and the
capital letter A, and the crowned
monogram I.H.S. between. Many
fragments of Abbot John's buildings
remain. The ruins are badly kept,
and farm-buildings occupy the main
site of the abbey. The parish ch. of
Coverham, partly rebuilt, 1854, is of
little interest.
310
BouU 2d.—C(W€rhamSearih Nick.
Leiaad says, " there was good syng-
ynge in CoverhanL^ The canons are
said to have heen famoos for a par-
ticular breed of white horses; and
in this and the neigboming dales
such horses are still of frequent oc-
currence.
Bannlph de Glanville, the justi-
ciary of Menrjr II., who was the first
to make a " digest " of the laws and
costoms of England, was bom at
CSoverham. Hu buids here passed
to his daughter Helewyse, and fnnn
her son to the Ftemonstratensians.
Here also (or at least in the dale,
from which he took his name) was
bom, toward the end of the 15th
cent., MUes Coverdale, who assisted
Tindfll in his English version of the
Bible, published in 1537, and after-
wards revised and corrected it in a
new edition (1540). Coverdale was
the first Bishop of Exeter (consec.
1551} " of the reformed religion.'*
(A road, passing Coverham, as-
cends Coverdale, and, crossing the
ridge, passes down to Kettlewell in
Wharfedale, whence the tourist may
reach Skipton or Settle. But Cover-
dale itself is not very picturesque or
interesting. Where the road gains
the summit of the ridge, between
Little Whemside and Buckden
Pikes, there is a magnificent view
down Wharfedale. (For Wharfedale
see Bte. 30.)
From Coverham you may walk
to East WiUon (2^ m.}, where the
ch. was built, in 1809, by the (then)
Earl of Ailesbuiy, as a memorial of
George III.*s having entered the
50th year of his reign. It was much
altered in 1871. 1| m. beyond East
Witton are the ruins of JervatUx
Mbey (see p. 304).
(6) The historical antiquary must
on no account omit visiting BoUon
CcuUe, distant about 5 m. From
Bolton he may proceed to Carperby
(2 m.), and across the Ure at Ayagaitii
(where the waterfalls and the ch. are
to be seen), and return to LeybnrB
on the S. side of Wensleydale. This
will be a delightful day's excursion.
From Leybum to Bolton take the
road to Beeth, which runs above the
Shawl, and at about 2m. from the town
turns 1. into the main road from Bich-
mond to Askrigg. After proceeding a
little more than 1 m. on this, it reaches
an eminence called Scarih Ntek (the
name means a *' nick " or deft in the
scar of rock), whence a magnificent
view is obtained over Wensleydale.
It is of the same general character
with that from Leybum Shawl, and
presents the same contrast of mourn-
tain and richly-cultivated land; but
the foreground is different. A glimpse
of the Aysgarth FaUt is obtained rt^
with Bolton Castle Im. distant. The
village of Preston under Scar lies
dose bdow. From this point the
road descends the Scar to JZecbntre,
where is a small N(Hm. and E. Bng.
ch., worth notice, and a maypole on
the green. There are some falls here
on zne Ure. Thence a rough road,
crossing the Avedale Seek, will bring
the tourist unaer the walls of BcUtm
CagUe, about 1 m. from Scartfa Nick.
The distance from Leybum to
Bichmond, taking the direct road
over Hipswell Moor, is 10 m. Fine
views are commanded from this high
ground ; but a far more striking and
picturesque road rans through the
valley of the Swale, and may be
reached by turning off the fanner
road at a wayside inn called Half-
rny JSbuse, and proceeding thence
Walbum Hall. The distance to
i^ichmond by this road is at least
12 m.
[Close to the left-hand side of the
direct road from Leybum to Rich-
mond, which crosses Hanzwell Moor,
and about a mile beyond Halfpenny
House, is BarOeap WeU, the scene of
Boute 23.— Hartleap WeU—Wdlbum EM. 811
the red and gold of its sycamoreB is
contrasted with the dark green of
numberless yew-trees scattered over
the face of the scar behind, this wood
is magnificent in colour. On the
top of the scar two upright stones
mark '< WiQance'i Leavy" so caHed
from a man on horseback having
been carried over the precipice at
this spot. The accident nappened in
1606. The man broke his leg, but
was saved ; the hocse rolled to the
bottom and was killed. A silver cup,
still in the possession of the Corpora-
tion of Bichmond, was given to them
by Willance as a memorial of his
escape. Hence the Swale rolls
quietly onward to wash the foot of
the Castle Hill at
Wordsworth's poem. A hunted hart
is said to have made three "cruel
leaps " from the top of the hill to the
spring in the hoUow. The leaps
were marked by upright stones ;
and a " bower " was Dimt near the
well.
* * I look'd upon the hill both &r and near,
More doleftal place did never eye suirey ;
It seem'd as If the BpriogUme came not
here.
And Nature here were willing to decay.'*
The stones have disappeared, and
close to the weU, whicn is scarcely
larger than a bucket, hangs but one
of the trees mentioned by the poet,
who draws his beautiful moral from
the stoiy —
•' Never to blend our pleasure or our pride
With Borrow of the meanest thing that
feela."]
Taking the lower road, WaJbum
HaUf now a farm (but carefully re-
stored by T. Hutton, Esq., of Manke),
is worth notice as a characteristic ex-
ample of a smaller Yorkshire " hall
house." It is built round an inner
court, and is almost entirely Eliza-
bethan, having been probably re-
newed by Francis LasceUes of Brekon-
bergh. During the civil war it was
garrisoned for Chas. I. by some com-
Cies of the Bichmondshire train-
ds. Beyond it the road crosses
the ridge dividing Uredale and
Swaledale, and descends to the
river-side. The bits of pastoral
scenery, with heath beyond, are
pleasant; and just below the sum-
mit of the ridge a very beautiful
view opens up part of Swaledale
into Arkengarth dale; mountains
close in the distance with fine out-
lines. This is a point for the
artist. Thick woods of ash and
sycamore extend along the river ; 1.
are seen the parks and plantations of
Manke (J. Darcy Hutton, Esq., see
Rte. 25), and close to the road is the
small village chapel (Dec.), which
has been restored. WhiicUffe Wood,
beyond Maiske, is within a walk
from Bichmond. In autumn, when I
Bichmond (see Bte. 25).
(The upper part of Swaledale and
Arkengarthdale are of course ac-
cessible from Leybum as easily as
from Bichmond. Reeth is the best
point for exploring them. See Bte.
(c) For Wensley and "Wensley-
dale, see Bte. 24.
S12 BotUe 24. — Leyhim to Hatoea Junction and SeSbergk.
a wild forest. But this part of the
dale must always have oeen of a
different character to the ** heads *
of Teesdale or of Swaledale; both
of which narrow, and are hemmed
in hj mountains. Wenslevdale miis
broad and open to its extremity
where the road crosses the ridge.
and, descending into Garsdale, pro-
ceeds to Sedbergh. The hills which
dose in the diue are throughout of
mountain limestone, capped in places
with millstone grit. Tney rise gra-
dually on either side of the dale to
a watershed ridge which separates
Wensleydale S. from Whaifedale
and N. from Swaledale. A third
ridge crosses the dale W. ; and be-
yond it the streams flow W. into the
valley of the Lune. The scazs or
precipices of broken rock which.
crowning the slopes on either side,
form a main feature of the dale, are
characteristic of the limestone.
The lower part of Wensleydale is
famous for its dairies. Wensleydale
cheese (and especially its excellent
cream cheese) snould not be neglected
by the traveller. Baron Parke took
his title (1856) from this Y(^kshire
dale, in which he was bom.
1} m. WeruAey Stat.
The pretty village of WentHey (it is
called Wendreslaga and Wenderdaga
in Domesday) lies on the Ure, above
Leyburn. Close to this stat. is a Lead
MinCi whose chimney is carried up
the hill behind. The Church, made
collegiate by letters patent of Rich,
n., 1399, is well worth a visit. The
nave is late Perp. ; the long choir
fine £. £ng. Under the nave battle-
ments are many shields of Scropes
and their alliances, and below the £.
window are (very unusually) stone
seats of the same date as the chancd
itself. At the end of the N. aisle
portions of a richly-carved parclose
brought from the Scrope chantry at
Easby Abbey, near Richmond (the
ancient burying-place of the Scrapes
ROUTE 24.
WENSLEYDALE— LEYBURN TO HAWES
JUNCTION AND sEDBERGH, BY
BOLTON CASTLE, AYSGARTH, A8K-
RIQQ, HAWES [HARDRAW FORCE].
35 m. Rail: 5 trains daily in 1)
hrs. (For Leyburn, see Rte. 23.)
The scenery throughout Wens-
leydale is fine ; and the upper part of
the dale especially has a pastoral
character that will recall Wordsworth
at evenr step. Bolton Castle, the
waterfalls at Aysgarth, at Askxigg,
and at Hardraw near Hawes, are well
worth visiting. The Passes out of
the dale northward afford some of the
finest mountain sceneiy in Yorkshure ;
and the lateral dales S. will repay
exploration. A good road runs aU
the way to Sedbergh, and the Rail-
way extends to Hawes Junction.
(There are comfortable Inns at Ley-
burn, Avsgarth, and Askrigg.)
Wensleydale (named from the vil-
lage of Wensley— -it is, in fact, the
valley of the LFre) is supposed to
begin at Kilgram Bridge, below
Jervaulx Abbey, and to extend to
the Westmorland border. The
Wensleydale of ancient days ended,
westward, at the junction of the
Bain with the Ure. All beyond was
BotUe 2L—BoU<m Hall.
313
^ Bte. 25), now enclose the pew
ol the lords of Bolton. Inscriptions
nm along the top of the screen,
which has besides "^ a sort of Scrope
pediffree in wood-work." The ori-
ginal oak seating remains in the nave.
The chancel has very fine stalls,
covered with heraldry, and bearing
the date 1527, when they were
erected by *' Henry Richardson,
rector.** Before the poppy-heads, and
looking toward the ch., are figures of
animals, thorooghly ^ood, spirited,
and life-like. Here also is tne fine
(Flemish) hnus of Sir Simon de
Wenslagh, rector (circ. 1390), with
the veiled chalice on his breast above
his crossed hands. (It has been en-
eraved by both Waller and Bontell.)
In the N. aisle is a monument for
two children of Lord Henry Scrope,
who died in 1525. The vestiy con-
tains some early Saxon fragments
dug up in the ch.-yd. ; among them
a stone marked with a cross and the
name Donfrid. In the ch. is buried
the father of Mason the poet, rector
of Wensley (1673-1683) ; and in the
ch.--yard, Thomas Maude, the " poet "
of Wensleydale, who died in 1798.
His * Wensleydale, a Poem,' was pub-
lished at York in 1771. He also
^Tote 'Yerbeia, or Wharf dale, a
Poem,* and other works.
BoUan BaU (Lord Bolton), adjoin-
ing the village W., was finished in
1^8, after Bolton Castle had become
untenantable, by the 1st Duke of
Bolton, son of the Man^uis of Win-
chester, so famous for his defence of
Basing House during the civil war.
It contains some interesting portraits
of the Scropes, among them one of
tiie 9th Lord, who gathered his
Wensleydale followers for Flodden
(see Bte. 23); of the 11th Lord,
who had the custody of Queen Mary ;
of his wife, sister of the Duke of Nor-
folk; and of the 13th Lord Scope,
the last of his line, created Earl of
Simderland by Chas. I. — ^by Vandyck.
The park is well wooded.
(From Wensley you may take the
N. side of the dale, see Bolton Castle,
and cross at Caperby to Aysgarth.)
Wensley bridge was made, says
Leland, " by one called Alwine, par-
son of Wencelaw," who died in 1430.
Crossing it, the road on the rt. bank
of the Ure passes through West
Witton, where the ch. is E. Eng.
(some portions perhaps earlier)—
there is a fine view nom the ch.-
yard. It then proceeds under PenhUL
(1817 ft.) (Pen, Cymric, a hill-crest),
a broad, flat-topped mountain, con-
spicuous throngnout the dale, and,
from its peculiar outline, a land-
mark even from the Cleveland Hills.
The summit, although flat, is bold
and craggy (it is of millstone grit,
the mass of the hill mountain lime-
stone), and in Leland's time had on
it a " castelet " or watch-tower. The
view from this hill, almost isolated
as it is by the narrow glens, Bishop-
dale, Waldendale, and (Toverdale,
which wind round and behind it, is
magnificent, and wiU amply repay
the climb. It may best be mounted
from the village of Wed Burton, in
Waldendale.
[The becks which descend Buhop-
dcue and Waldendale join a litUe
above the road through Wensleydale.
Both these dales are picturesque, with
fine sycamores and ash-trees cluster-
ing about the farms, and with grand
hiU scenery at their higher ends,
where the watershed ridge separates
them from Wharfedale. (A rough
road passes up each dale, and joins
that which runs up Wharfedale, by
Kettlewell, to Askrigg and Hawes —
see poet, Hatoee.) They are much
narrower than the main valley of the
Ure, and are worth the artist s atten-
tion. In Foee Gill, a narrow glen
opening into Bishopdale on the W.
side, about 3 m. above Thorelby,
is a long series of falls or " fosses,**
descending from the fell, ledire after
ledge, for more than } m. In Walden-
314
Boute 2^—BolUm CaUie.
dale, dose to West Burton^ is a water-
fall, still very wild and striking, al-
tboagh a lead-mine is woiking in the
rock immediately in front of it. The
houses of West Burton are boilt roond
a green, with a cross on steps in the
middle. Many of the houses have a
flifl^ht of steps to an npper door, that
below opening into a stable for
cattle. This arrangement is com-
mon thronghoat the northern dales.
The toorist who desires to explore
this neighbourhood will find a good
Inn at Aytgarth (see pod).2
Near the opening of Bishopdale
are some scanlr remains of a pre-
ceptory of Kmghts Templars, esta-
bbshed before the year 1185, the
history of which seems little known.
(The remains, little more than founda-
tions, are those of the chapel attached
to the preceptory.) By the road-
side, and commanding a view of
Aysgarth Force, is a building called
the "Temple" (with reference to
this foundation), in the grounds of
SunnUhwaite HaU (J. Pilkington,
Esq.).
Bedmire 8iai. The village on the
Ure has a small Trans. Norm. Churehs
and a iifa](po20 on the green. A rough
road leads up the hill about a mile to
BdUonCcuOe,
This great castle of the Scropes
will have been for some time visible,
with its four towers rising grey
against the rosset moon that stretch
away from it N. and W. N.W.
broken crags and steeper hills extend
towards Askrigg. On the E. side
alone plantations have been made
along tne course of the Apedale Beck.
The castle stands on the N. side of
Wensleydale; and the ground rises
gradually behind it to the qrest of
the ridge dividing Wensleydale from
Swaledale.
Here the Scropes lived in the
midst of their own followere, and ia
the greatest feudal state, from the
reign of Richard 11. to the days <rf
the Long Parliament. Here the
Lord Scrope marshalled his men be-
fore joining the host which fought at
Hodden :--
** Lord Scrope of Bolton, etem and stoat.
On honebftck who had not bis peer;
No Englishman Soots more did dovH^
With him did wend all Wensadale
From Morton onto Molsdale Moor;
All they that dwelt by th« banks of Swale
With him were bent in harness stoor.
With Insty lads and laige of length
Which dwelt at Seimec^ water side.
All Rkfamoodahlre its total strength
The lusty Sexope did lead and guide.'*
The Scropes of Bolton were fre-
quently wardens of the west marches,
and it is the "Keen Lord Saope"
who thus figures in the ballad of
Kinmont Wi&ie. As march- warden.
Lord Scrope attended Queen Maiy
of Scotland at Cadisle, whither she
was first conducted on her flight to
England. Lady Scrope was sent to
wait on her ; and on the 13th of July,
1568, she was conveyed from Carliale
to Bolton Castle, where she remained
until January 26, 1568-9. During
her stay at Bolton the famous Com-
mission sat at York, and afterwards
at Westminster, which professed to
examine the charges brought against
her; and while the Commissioa was
sitting at York the intrigue was
commenced between Mary and the
Duke of Norfolk, who was the chief
of Elizabeth's commissioneis, which
afterwards cost the Duke his head.
Lady Scrope was his sister, and by
her means letters and lore-tokens
passed from the Duke to Mary at
Bolton. Here the Queen was watched
by the vice-chamberlain, Sir Francis
^nollys, on Elizabeth's part, and was
visited bv her own friends, Lesley
Bishop of Boss, and Sir Bobert Mel-
ville; and here, while the resuU of
the Commission was still doubtful,
she professed to listen with interest
ItauU 24.—BoUan CkuUe.
815
to the claims of the reformed faith,
" hearing," wrote Sir Francis Enollvs
to CecU, August 8, 1568, *' the faults
of papestrj rerealed by preaching or
otherwise with contented ears, and
with gentle and weak replys." The
Queen was nennitted her usual ex-
ercise at Bolton, and rode, with due
attendance, over all the surrounding
country — ^ridinff always so fast as to
outstrip aU who accompanied her.
** Bolton,** wrote Knollys, was the
" highest walled house he had seen."
'" It hath but one entrance, and half
the number of soldiers may better
watch and ward the same uian the
whole number thereof could do Carlisle
Castle."
During the civil war Bolton
Castle was held for the King by
Colonel Scrope and Colonel Chaytor,
the latter of whom, after being re-
duced to eat his horses, capitmated
(Not. 164^ and marched to Ponte-
fnict. The committee at York or-
dered it to be *' made untonable " in
1647, and from that dato it has been
falling more and more into decay.
The castle, with which these as-
sociations are connected, was built
by Richard Lord Scrone, Chancellor
of England under Ricnard 11., and
father of the Abp. of Ycnrk, beheaded
in 1405. He made it "out of the
ground," says Leland, ^of four ^eat
strong towns, and of good lodfmes.
It was a making 18 years, and tne
charges of tiie buildyne came by rere
to 1000 marks. . . . Most part of the
timber that was occupied in buylding
of tills castle was fett owt of the
forest of Engleby, in Cumberland;
and Richard Lord Scrope for con-
veyance of it had kyd by the wajr
dyyers draughts of oxen to carry it
from place to place tiU it came to
Bolton."
The licence to crenellato was
granted in 1879: a date which it
will be useful to remember in ex-
amining the detail and distribution
of the sereral parts, as well as for
comparison witn Baby Castle, the
licence to fortify which was granted
by Bishop Hatfield in the same year.
Of the 4 large square towers at
the comers, 3 remam entire; the
4th has fallen down from neglect;
the rest of the walls are nearly
perfect. The outor openings up to
2nd floor are slits. The buildings
enclose a courtyard, on one side of
which is the great hall, on the other
a chapel. There is a dungeon and
well, and some rooms are inhabited
by cottagers, who have been allowed
to take out part of the old muUioned
windows, and put modem cottage
casements in their places. It is one
of the most perfect houses of its period
remaining m England. . . . «
Besides the great hall in the north
part, there is a smaller hall or
t)anqueting-room in the S. front, the
kitehen and offices of which remain
almost perfect. Near ^e fireplace
is a sink or wator-drain, of plain
character, but origuial
The only entrance to the castle is at
the E. end, through a well-protected
gatoway ; and it is said that each of
the small doors leading from the
court-yard into the bmlding was
protected b^ a porteullis, so that if
an enemy did force an entrance into
the court-yard he would be exposed
to a muinderous cross-fire from aU
4 sides. This unusual precaution
may have been considered necessary
from the circumstance of there being
no moat, which probably the steep-
ness of the hill rendered impractic-
able.
Close to the N. side of the castle
is a chapel, now the parish ch.,
outside the walls. It is dedicated
to S. Oswald, and has been *' restored "
and fitted with new seats. (In this
chapel Richard Lord Scrope, the
founder, richly endowed a cnan^,
for the health of the soul of Ejng
Richard II.).
The ground-rooms throughout the
castle were vaulted with plun barrel
vaults .... the upper rooms
had wooded floors, and the roofe were
316
Bouie 2i.—BoUon CaatU^Ayagarth.
nearly flat. Besides the 4 large
square towers, tiiere is a sm^
sauare tower or turret in the centre
of the N. front, and another in the
centre of the S. front ; the latter is
filled enthrely with garderobes, one
on each floor, which have passages
leading to them from each of tiie
rooms. The ground-room of the N.
tower is the dungeon, with a barrel
vault, the only entrance being by a
trap-door from a similar room over
it, which has loopholes only ; above
this is a guard-room, with a fireplace
and windows. The eastern half of
the upper stories in both (N. and S.)
fronts IS divided into small chambers
'. ... the western ludf is a hall,
the larger and more important in
the N. front. This hall occupies
the same height as the two upper
stories in the eastern part, and was
open to the roof, which was nearly
flat. It has on each side three tall
windows of a single light, divided by
a transom, with foliated heads and
hood molds, of late Dec. character.
The entrance is by a newel staircase
at the inner angle of the tower, and
the staircase ako led to the offices,
which were partly in the tower and
partly in the W. front, where (from
a large chimney remaining) was
probably the kitchen. Bolton was
clearly a baronial residence — not
merely a military fortress ; and al-
though Baby Castle (still inhabited)
is nearly of the same period, it has
been so much altered as to make the
original arrangement scarcely intelli-
gible.
The wall of the two halls are
perfect, but roof and floors are now
wanting. ** Two halls were usual in
all great residences both in the 18th
and 14th cents." — /. H. Parkery
* Domestic Architecture.'
In the hall of Bolton, Leland
" much noted " how the smoke of the
hearth was "wonder strangely con
veyed by tunnels made on the syds
of the walls betwixt the lights''^
passage which has sometimes beea
suppled to prove that chinmeji
were not in use before this time.
This, however, we know to be as
error. (Chimneys were in commoa
use from the 12th cent, downwards.)
A room adjoining the S.W. tows'
is called "Queen Mary's,'* and no
doubt was that occupied hy hei,
(A local tradition asserts that she
escaped through one of the windows
in tnis part of the castle, and had
reached the " Queen's Ghip " on Ij^-
bum Shawl when she was retakou)
Her signature, " Marie B.,'* remained
for some time on a pane of glass in
one of the windows of this room, but
this has been removed to Bolton
Hall.
A pleasant walk may be foond
across fields from Bdton Castle to
Ay^gartk Stat, on the height, which
is about f m. from the Force; it is
approach^ by path down 1. bank, a
little way below the bridge and
Church.
Inn: Miner^s Anns, at Palmer's
Fktt.
The view from Aytgarth Bridge^ a
fine arch of 70 ft. roan, is singnLariv
picturesque. The Ure is here mncli
oroken with waterfalls, more varied
(though not so grand) than those of
the more famous Force below. « The
floom of the pendent trees," says
*ennant, "the towering steeple of
the ch. above, and the rage of the
waters beneath the ivy-boond arch,
fonn together a romantic view.**
Aysgarih Force is about i m. below.
The river here descends a series of
flat limestone ledges (none of great
height) which stretch across its bed.
The banks are fringed with natoral
coppice. When in flood, the river
falls over these ledges (then com- |
pletely hidden) with ^mendoos force.
At otiber times the margin of the
I stream, worn and fretted into pot-
holes, forms a singular frame to the
Boute 24.—Aysgarth ChurcJ^^Nappa HaU. 317
dashing water. The "force" fvery
much Tnmerised) forms one of the
series in that great artist's "Rich-
mondshire."
The Church (dedicated to St. An-
drew) stands on the hill above the
bridge. In 1866 it was entirelj re-
built, with the exception of the lower
part of the tower (perhaps E. E., and
evidentlT meant for defence, like
many otner chnrch-toweis in this dis-
trict). The present chnrch is
thronghoat Perp. in character, and
has a distinct chancel. There is
some modern stained glass, an en-
riched reredoB, and a moral decora-
tion representing the Call of St. An-
drew. A paint^ window commemo-
rates the escape of Bev. J. Winn from
burglan! But far more interesting
than any portion of the modem chnrch
is the magnificent Rood$erten (late
Dec.), said to have been broneht from
Jervaulx, and which was the most
conspicuous featnre in the old chnrch
of Aysgarth, as it is in the present.
•On it may be seen the letters A. S.,
the initials of the last Abbot, Adam
of Sedbergh. It has been re-painted
and re-gut. The woodwork in the
chancel is modem, with the excep-
tion of two enriched stall -ends,
with initials and devices of abbots
of Jervanlx, to which house the
ch. belonged. There is a fine view
from the ch.-yard. *< Aykesgarth,"
the ancient form of the name, seems
to mean " oak enclosure."
You can either cross the river here,
and proceed along the N. bank to
Askrigg, or follow the road to Bain-
bridge through Thomton Bust The
latter road affords perhaps the finer
quitting Aysgarth the railway
I near Nappa HaU, the ancient
On
noose, well wcrdiy of a visit, of the
Metcalfes (called locally "Mecca"),
heads of a fl;reat " clan " which for-
merly exten&d throughout the dale.
Lehmd says that a£mt Nappa it
would have been easy " to make a
dOO men in very known consanguinity
of the Metcalfes;" and in 1556 Sir
Christopher Metcidfe, as sheriff, met
the Judges at York with 300 " of his
own name and kindred," aU on white
horses. Camden says (Britannia) the
family of Metcalfe was then (1607)
counted the most numerous in Eng-
land. The last of these Nappa Met-
calfes died 1756. The family, how-
ever, iB by no means extinct ; and in
our own day Lord Metcalfe was
govemor successively of the three
greatest dependencies of the British
Crown, — Jamaica, Canada, and India
The house of Nappa, which was built
by Thomas Metcalfe, Chancellor of the
Duchy of Lancaster in the reign of
Bich. m., contains a bedstead in
which Queen Maiy is said to have
slept, a pair of her gloves, and an
autograph letter from her to a Met-
calfe. Jas. I. was entertained here,
and, says tradition, crossed the Ure
on the back of Metcalfe's huntsman
(Metcalfe of Nappa was Master
Forester of Wensleydale).
1} m. from the Hall, and skirted
by tiie railway, is a warren of silver-
grey rabbits. It is said that only 2
or 3 warrens of this species exist in
£)ngland.
From Thortdan Bu$t (said to be a
conruption of St. Bestitutus) the views
over the dale, into which the moun-
tains send out great projecting but-
tresses, are very fine. At Bainbridge
^here the homely Inh, Bose and
Crown, is one of the best for pedes-
trians in Yorkshire) the little Biver
Bain is crossed, dose to its junction
with the Ure. Here the "forest of
Wensleydale" commenced, and a
horn is still sounded at 10 at night
"from Holyrood to Shrovetide" as
a guide to travellers. Bainbridge is
the conjectured site of the B^nan
Bracehiwn; and a Boman road, run-
ning through Wensleydale from Mid-
dlebam, is thought to have turned
318
Bcule 24. — Askrigg — Seamer-tcaier.
from this point northward over the
wild conn^ toward Bowes ^Lava-
tr«). Over the door of the grammar-
school at Bainhridge is a mermaid,
said to have been foond in a camp
on the top of Addleborongh, or in
one below, nearer the town. These
camps are sometimes called ^^High
Brutt"and"Low Bruff." One was
perhaps a summer camp, while the
other represents the Roman station.
In this neighbonrhood the family
of Parke held Xiuid from an earlj date.
In 1856 one of the family dis-
tinguished in the law, attained the
title of Lord Wenslejdale, which was
first granted as a fife peerage, but
after a notable contest m the House
of Lords, was made hereditary.
Ashriag Stat., about i mile from the
dull little town of grey houses, which
has an Inn .* King^ Arms, clean and
homely, but small ; P. H. and traps.
There is an uninteresting ch., and a
picturesque stone-house, with date
1675, in the main street.
Behind the town, approached by
paths across the fields, are two small
waterfalls, picturesque, but of no
great size or height ; not holding the
nret rank among Yorkshire cascades,
but still worthy to be the objects of a
morning's walk.
MtOgiU Force. Like all the
"forces" in this district, the water
descends (69 ft.) over a scar at
the end of a long hollow. Here the
sides of the glen are narrow and
broken. The water flings itself over
a scar of black rock, the sides of which
are clothed with trees, ferns, and
grasses. In front, the basin of the
fall is hidden by a great " platform ''
of rock, with other masses piled ir-
regularly round it. "On a nearer
approach,** writes Wordsworth, " the
waters seemed to fall down a tall arch
or niche that had shaped itself bv in-
sensible moulderings in the wall of
an old castle. ' We left this spot with
reluctance, but highly exhilarated.*'
Above it (on the same beck) is Whit-
feU Force — ^more difficult of access,
out repaying the severe climb up the
hill. Here me glen is much narrower,
between limestone rock, and the water
falls (42 ft.^ in broad sheets over
gritstone rocx.
[From Bainhridge, p. 817, you may
climb AddJUhor(mgh (1564 ft.), the re-
markable limestone hiU rising £., of
the village. On its top is SUmeraite,
a cairn 860 ft. in circumference, piled
above 8 stone cists, one of which re-
tains its shape. A square Boman
camp, now almost obliterated, once
existed here. The view fnnn the
summit of Addleborouzh is vast, but
perhaps less so than inai from Pen-
hill. It however commands iSeamer-
ddUt out of which the Bain flows,
and which is ** unique among N.
Yorkshire dales in its shape and
character.** The lake is fed by
streams descending from three dales
— ^Bardale, Baydale, and Cragdale.
The hills that on each side guard,
its entrance stand boldly out toward*
the Ure; and 2 m. up the dale is
Seamer-i/oater (locally called S&ner-
water ; the etymolo^ is not clear^, a
lake of 105 acres, with a sprinkling
of wood round its shores. It cannot
be compared with the least pictur-
esque lake in the adjoining counties
of Westmoreland and Cmnberland;
but the scene is ouiet and pleasing,
and under some effects of light even
grand. The lake contains some fish
— ^trout, bream, and grayling — the
last introduced within memory : but
the trout here are by no means so
fine as those in the neighbouring
streams. There is a tradition that a
large town once stood on its site,
and that an old man sought ahns
from house to house throughout it.
receiving none till he came to a
cottage on the outskirts. There he
was fed and lodged, and on the fol-
lowing day departed. As he climbed
the hill he turned, and, looking on
the city, exclaimed —
Bouie 24. — Hawes-^Hardraio Force.
319
"Simmer water rise, Simmer water sink.
And swallow all the town.
Save joa lile bonae,
Where they gave me meat and drink.*'
The earth gaped, the lake rose, and
all perished except the inhabitants
of the" lile house."
A large block of limestone called
the " CarUno Stone " lies at the foot
of the lake.
(A rough mountain road leads
from Bainbridge £. of Seamer
Water, across the ridge to the road
through Widdale, from Hawes to
Ingleton. (Seepogt,) A pedestrian
may make his way bj this road to
the little Inn at Cfearstonei^ near the
soorce of the Bibble. This inn is
about 10 m. from Bainbridge. It is
on the Widdale road, and is 8 m.
from Ingleton. Distances, however,
in this mountain district are hardly
to be reckoned by miles, and the
walk from Bainbridge to Gearstones
will prove a long (and somewhat
dreary) one. (See for it and the
countiy ronnd, poet, and Bte. 32).]
On quitting Askrigg, the railway
crosses the Ure to its rt. bank, passing
1. Bainbridge (see above, p. 317).
jRawes^ty 820 ft. above sea-lerel
(from JidU, Teuton, neck or col or
pass: in Cumberland "^t««6,*' leading
across a watershed). Inn : The White
Hart (2nd rate, commercial). The
dale here is broad and open, and not
very picturesque. Hawes is a town
of 1843 Inhab., just halfway between
Ijeybum and Sedbergh. Much knit
^worsted hosiery is made here —
sailors' jackets, shirts, stockings, &c. ;
and Hawes is the chief depot for the
butter produced in this and the
neighbouring dales. As much as
700Z. has been paid in one week for
butter. The town itself is unin-
teresting. The ch., built in 1852, is
tolerably good. It is a pity there is
not abetter and more commodious Inn
here. Hawes is a centre from which
several excursions may be made.
Hardraw Forces 1} m. above
Hawes, on the opposite N. side of
the valley, must on no account be
left unseen.
A road crossing the Ure by a
bridge (there is a shorter footpath)
leads to Hardraw, a hamlet, with
a very neat Gothic Church, built
1880, by Lord WhamdifFe, and a
small and dean public house--Green
Ih^on. Behind the church opens
Fos^ale, in the mouth of whicn is
Hardrauo Force^ the most remarkable
of the waterfalls in Wensleydale. The
glen, running up into the flanks of
Shunnor FeU, near its entrance,
assumes the shape of a horseshoe,
thickly wooded, in pleasant contrast
with the surrounding moors. It is
walled in by limestone clifib, perhaps
200 ft. high, and the width of the
glen is not much more. At the ex-
tremity of it, in the centre of the
curve, the stream dashes down a depth
of 96 ft. from the brink of the cliff,
which, being composed of two beds of
soft black shale, with one thin stratum
of hard limestone interposed between,
is cut away, down to tnis stratum, in
a deep channel by the force of the
water, and is washed out and disinte-
grated below the Innestone by the
dashing of the spray. The conse-
quence is, that the limestone-bed,
insensible to any erosive power in run-
ning water, projects 10 or 15 ft. from
the face of the precipice, forming a
ledge or cornice over which the water
leaps at once in one great spout into
the centre of the black circular pool
below, leaving a vacant space of
30 or 40 ft. between it and the
scooped-out rock. Along this hol-
low, and beneath the cornice of
limestone, there is a ready passage
quite behind the fall, which may be
thus approached and examined from
below with the greatest ease. It is
very striking to watch the vast jet
shoot off from the overhanging
ledge above vour head, and to gaze
through the falling foam, as through
a veil, upon the scene aroond. l%e
820
BotUe 24. — Hardraw Force — Garsdale,
path is continued up the face of the
rock by stone steps, laid in a gap or
chasm, and then turns back bj a
wooden bridge over the top of the
fall. The view from the cliff, look-
ing down on the fall, and over Wens-
leydale beyond, is very fine ; the
white column of water reUeved against
the inky rocks, and the impending
character of the precipices around,
form an imposing scene, which has
been worthily portrayed by the pencil
of Turner.
During very hard winters (e.g.
1880-81) this fall forms a huge sta-
lagmite of ice. pyramidal in form,
reaching up the face of the rock to a
height of 80 or 90 ft., and nearly as
broad at its base. In the centre of
this icy pyramid the water may be
seen flowing as through a glass tube.
The cranesbill geranium ((^eramum
tylvcUicum) grows in such plenty over
tne fallen masses of limestone at the
bottom of the glen as to give distinct
colour to the foreground. Geranium
fratente and lucidum are also found
m the neighbourhood.
Among the trees above Hardraw is
seen SimofCs HaUy shooting-lodge of
Earl Wharncliffe, whose grounds
occupy part of Fossdale.
Seven dales — Moa$ddlet ToredaU
proper, CotUrdcUej and Fosidale
rN.), and WiddaU, Galedale, and
Setunerddie (S.), open out within
3 m. of Hawes, radiating from it
N., S., and W. All these dales con-
tain scattered farms and cottages,
generally nestling under three or
four old ash-trees or sycamores —
the originals of Wordsworth^s pic-
ture—
•'Aiid be bad trudged throni^ Yorksbire
d*le9»
Among the rocki and winding Fcan^
Where deep and low the hamleta lie.
Beneath ttieir Uttle patch of sky.
And imie lot of aUrM."— /*eter BM, pt. i.
All are pastoral; and the ereen
meadows running up their hollows
contrast very pleasantly with the
rough mountains that guard them.
Black-faced sheep ore plenty, and
in winter are smeared with tar and
grease to protect the wool. The
animals are so much reduced during
that season, that the wool would be*
come diseased without some such
help. Much wool is spun and knitted
in the dales, and clogs (wooden shoes,
generally of alder) are made in
great plenty during the winter.
Piles of them may be seen in front of
manv of the houses.
There are waterfalls on almost
all the becks that descend through
these dales. On the Cotter, not far
from its junction with the Ure, there
is one worth a visit. (For the upper
part of the Ure, see poti,)
Hawes to Hawes Junet, Stat.
The rail, constantly ascending, soon
turns 1. out of the valley of the Ure,
which is here nearly as broad and flat
as at its mouth, and is wild moorland,
not picturesque ; rt. is seen the gap of
Hardraw and Ld. MHiamcliffe's lodge
above it, and N. the Ure is visiUe
sweeping down from the flanks of
Wildboar Fell.
7 m. Hawes Junct. Stat., where
our line joins the Midland, near
where it crosses the valley on a Via-
duct of 12 arches. In front rises the
mass of Bough' or Bow/dt, an isolated
mountain, 2216 ft. high.
A long mountain road (15 m.)
runs from Hawes through Widdale
to Ingleton. Widdale is, however,
hardly worth exploration on its own
account, and tne Bly, by Hawes
Junct. is much quicker.
The carriage-road crossing theridge,
6 m. ^om Hawes (where is the boun-
dary between the N. and W. Ridings],
descends into Oarsdale, through
which the streams run W. towards
the Lune.
The scenery hence to Sedbergh is
pleasing, without being grand or
BaiUe 24.—Sedbergk
821
especially striking. Rt. rises Baugh
FeU, and 1. the mnch less lofty hifis
of Rjsell and Craggs. The road
crosses and recrosses the Oandale
heck, that gives life and animation to
the valley, the sides of which are
scarred with hollows, lined with wood
in places, and gleaming with stream-
lets. There is little heather, and the
hills are green to the summits. The
cottages and farms are whitewashed,
so as to be seen at some distance.
Halfway throngh the dale is a modem
chapel, of E. Eng. character, pleasant
to come upon. A very fine group of
hills (one of which is the " Crool of
Lime **), wild and marked with deep
gills, rises in front shortly before
the road crosses the stream of the
Bothay, and enters
Seibergk Stot. (Jnn: Bull and
Dog), a town on the extreme border
of Yorkshire, in the valley of the
Bothay, which here flows onward to
join the Lnne. The Ckurch of St.
Andrew, Norm., with Perp. additions,
is worth a visit. The altar-steps and
the font are of black Dentdale mar-
ble. The bust of a mathematician,
John Dawson, a native of Sedbergh
parish, who had 11 senior wranglers
for pupils, is in the nave. In the ch.-
yara are two vews under which Oeorge
Fox the Quaker preached, drawing all
the people out of the church to hear
him.
The neighbourhood of Sedberffh
is wild and pleasant, the steep huls
rising close round the town. The
Grammar School, founded by Boger
Lupton, Provost of Eton, temp. Ed.
VI., is richly endowed, and has pro-
duced many scholars of distinction.
Among them was the late Prtjfenor
Sedgunek, Hartley Coleridge was
(18S7-S8) one of the tutors here, and
was especially fond of the Sedbergh
hills and rivers— the latter, he used
to say, were precisely Homer's otyoxts
trordftoi — 'being, when flooded, the
colour of old port. Above the town
ITorkshire^
is a mound of natural drift, which
has been scarped, and may, p^haps,
have been used as a Boman watch-
tower. CauUey Spout, A long, naxKfw
waterfall on the side of Howgill
FeUs, is worth a visit when full of
water. The mass of HowgiU FeUt
(the highest point is the Cd^^
2188 ft.) consists of the Silurian slaty
rocks usual in Westmoreland (in
which county it is for the most part);
and the scenery differs greatly from
that of the limestone. '* Intersecting
slopes in angular masses of grey
rock, breaking through steep green
surfaces, give to this district a very
different aspect from the broad swells,
rough craggy edges, and brown or
purple heath, which mark the
greater part of the Yorkshire fells.**
--PkUlipB. The mountain view from
"the Calf," extending far over the
Westmoreland hills, is very fine.
(The Bly. from Leeds and Ingle-
ton to Low Gill, Penrith, and Car-
lisle, has a Stat, at Sedbergh, about
1 m. from the town. By it the
tourist may proceed into Cumber-
land.)
(Dentdale (see Bte. 32), a long
winding dale, famous for its beds m
black marble, runs from Sedbergh
nearly to Ingleton. (The name of
the Dee, which flows down it, seems
to be partly retained in that of the
dale.) The upper part is wild and
romantic, but it is not one of the most
interesting dales. At Dent, a small
town still famous for its knitters
(witness the Biorj of the "terrible
knitters of Dent,*^ told in Southey's
' Doctor '), was bom Adam Sedawick,
the well-known geologist and Pro-
fessor of Cambridge.
322 Bks. 24a.— Hawe8 to Muker; 24b.— to KirBy Stephen, de.
BOUTE 24a.
HAWES TO MUKER.
The "JJtittcrttife* Pom;' (1760
ft. above sea-leyel), as the road is
called running over the ridge from
Hawes to Mnker in Swaledale, is
singularly wild, and commands most
extensive mountain views. (The
distance is 6 m. from Hawes to
Thwaite, and 1 m. thence to Muker.)
The climb to the summit of the pass
is rough, and calls for good sinews.
The road passes between Great
Shunnor Fdl (2351 ft.) and Lovely
8eal (2216 ft.)—tho latter of which
" is, perhaps, the most conveniently
situated of all the hills of the dis-
trict for giving a panoramic view of
the upper part of the Swaledale and
Yoredale hollows."—/. G. B, ** The
evening view toward the S., on
gaining the summit of the pass, is of
the utoiost grandeur, Ingleborongh,
Whemside, and other line outlines
coming boldly out beyond the broad
undulations about the head of Tore-
dale."— PWKt>9. The walk (for the
sake of this view) should rather be
taken from Muker to Hawes than in
the contraiy direction. The "Butter-
tubs,'' which give name to the pass,
are six or seven deep holes in the
limestone a little below the Swale-
dale side of t<he summit. "One or
two have pillars like basaltic columns ;
some are very deep ; several have
ferns growmg down the sides, and
juniper-bushes about the top; all are
curious."— IT. 8. Banks, lie hills
on either side do not offer much
interest, and the ascent of Lovely
Seat will not give much more than
is gained from the pass itself. There
is a clean but rough Inn at Thwaites,
and another, but indifferent, at
Muker. (See Bte. 25.)
The upper part of Swaledale, in-
cluding the road from Beeth to
Muker, is described in Rte. 25.
liOUTE 2lB.
HAWES TO KIRKBY STEPHEN,
HELL GILL.
Proceedmg from Hawes to Sed-
bergh, the road is at first uninterest-
ing. At 4 m. a road turns to N.
to Kirkby Stephen.
This route, after quitting Hawes,
passes r. the village of Thwaites, and
leavmg the railway on 1., adheres io
the course of the Ure following it up
nearly to its source on rt., I. rises
the rough summit of Wildboar Pell
The Midland Railway going N. froni
Hawes Junct., runs parallel with our
road, both crossing the Hell Gill
Beck.
Boute 25. — Torh to Bickinond.
323
The pedestrian will find no in-
considerable pleasure in exploring
the almost savage solitudes about
the soorces of the Eden and the
Ure. The hills here are dark and
ragged, displaying, ,in Camden*s
words, *' sucn a £'eary waste and
horrid silent wilderness, that certain
little rivulets that creep here are
called ^HeU-heeks' — rivers of hell.
In this part the goats, deer, and
stags of extraordinary size, with
branching horns, find a secure re-
treat." By the "Hell-becks" the
stream of the Eden near its source
is meant. (Al or JBd (Celtic) in-
dicates high or prominent ground;
but the ** hel " here is probably the
northern root, signifying something
covered or closed in, as in " heling "=
roofing.) This river plunges suddenly
into what is called Heil GiU, 9 m.
from Hawes. " Prom the very edge
of the water on both sides limestone
precipices to a height of 50 ft. rise so
sheerly and abruptly, that in one
place, with the maddened mountain
torrent foaming and boiling below,
it is easy to leap across from one crag
to the other. The length of the
ravine is under } m. The cliffs are
overgrown by mosses and bushes, but
the recesses of the glen it is almost
impoesible to explore without a rope,
for its sides are much too steep to be
climbed. " — J. G, Baler.
Kirkby Stenhen Junct. Stat., on
the rly. from Barnard Castle to Ap-
pleby and to Tebay, see Hndbh, /or
Durham.
KOUTE 25.
YORK TO RICHMOND, SWALEDALE,
REETH, MUKER, AND BARNARD
CASTLE, BY DALTON JUNCTION
AND CATTERICK BRIDGE.
(From York to DaUon Junction
on the N. E. Bailway, this route is
the same as Bte. 16.
FromDalton Junct. a branch line
»of 10 m. runs to Bichmond. 5 trains
daily: on Saturdays 2 additional
trains run each way. This branch
line is in direct communication with
Darlington.)
Passing the stations at MouUon
and Scorton, we reach
6i m. CkiUerick Bridge Stat.
The places of interest hero are the
site of the Boman Station, the Chapel
of Brough Hall, and (only to be seen
by special permission) the pictures
at the Ilall itself; and Cattcrick
Church.
Catterieh Bridge crosses the Swale
a short distance S. of the rly. stat. ;
it has been much altered and widened
since it was completed in 1426. Ac-
cording to the contract for building
it, still preserved at Brough Hall,
y2
824
Route 25.—Oaitench—Brottgh HaU.
the bridge cost 17dZ. 60. 8d., and,
" with the grace of God,'* was to be
made "accord and in snbetance to
Bamacastell-brigge/* It crosses the
Swale in the line of the Roman road
(now called Leeming Lane), which
ran from Isurinm (Aldboroagh, Bte.
19) to this place ; a little N. of which,
at a place called Violet Grange, roads
parted N. to Vinovia (Binchester),
and N.W. to Lavatrae (Bowes).
Until 1840, this road was one
of the chief lines of communication
with the North ; and the Inn at the
bridge (still not uncomfortable) was
famoos in the days of posting. There
was an Inn here in the time of Hen.
VIII., and a chapel near it, ded.
to St. Anne, of which some traces
remain. (Leland says, "Keterick
Bridge selfe hath but one house as
an ign.")
Looking up the river from the
bridge, a nigh bank on the S. side
marks the site of the Roman Cata-
ractonium (the name is retained in
the modern Catterick, but its ety-
mology is quite uncertain ; Caer-
dar-ich, "the camp on the water,"
has been suggested, but such a
name would be just as applicable to
hundreds of other camps. Ptolemy
calls it Karopoicror). The position
was of importance, and Cataracto-
nium was a walled camp, with sides
of 240 and 175 yards, enclosing about
9 acres. A portion of the wall has
been cleared, and partly rebuilt (ior
the sake of preservation). A few
inscriptions have been found here —
one in 1620, recording the restoration
of an altar to the deity of roads and
paths, " Deo aui vias ct semitos
commentus est * — an important per-
sonage in this wild comer of the
Brigantian territory. Other relics
are preserved at Brough. The field,
ill which the camp now exists is
known as " Thornborough,*" a name
of freauent occurrence in connection
with British and Roman relics. (It
is perhaps in some shape the Teutonic
2%tir»= tower.) AcconUng to Bede,
Faulinus used to baptize in the Swale
here. "In provincia Deirorum, abi
ssBpius manere cum rege solebat,
baptizabat in fluvio Suua, qui vi-
cum Cataractum prsterfluit.*' — ^H.EL,
1. ii. c. 14. This passage probablj-
gave rise to the story that Paalinas
baptized 10,000 in one day in the
Swale, a storv which has been
transferred to him from St. Angus-
tine of Kent. But although Pope
Gregory, writing to the Patriarch of
Alexandria, says that Augustine
baptized 10,000 Saxons on Christ-
mas-day, he does not mention the
scene of the baptism. Gocelin (Acta
Sanct.) and Gervase (Act. Pontif.)
place it at the Swale; meaning,
certainly not the Yorkshire river,
but the passage so called betweea
the Isle of Sheppey and the main-
land. The etymology is not clear.
A gate, Just beyond the bridge,
leads to Brough HaU (Sir J<£ii
LawBon, Bart.). The Raman CaOiolie
Chapel IB seen rt. of the entrance-
road, and is shown to visitors.
(Ask at the school beloiK'.) It was
built by the late Sir William Lawson,
and is a close and very successful
copy of Abp. Rogers Chapel (now
the Chapter Library) at York (see
Rte. 1). An Ecce Homo, said to be
by Correggio, deserves notice. The
stained glass of the windows is bv
WiUement and Wailee,
The Hoiue of Brough is partly
Elizabethan, but has bien modern-
ized and added to. The ceiling of
the entrance-hall is a very good ex-
ample of Elizabethan work, having
the beams decorated in arabesque,
with shields. Here is a very beau-
tiful Virgin and Child in marble (of
small size), said to be by Rubens,
who sometimes modelled.' A por-
trait of Arabella Fermor, heroine of
Pope's * Rape of the Lock,' should
also be remarked. Under the stair-
case is a large cauldron of mixed
Route 2&.'-Cattei'ick CJiurch.
325
metal, found at Cataractoniiun. It
holds 24 gallons, and was at one
time *" fixed in a furnace to brew in."
When found, it was covered with
flat stones and full of Boman coins —
a true "crock of money." In the
JDrawing-Toom are three"'* Holy Fa-
milies" hj Garofalo, Ghiiiandajo,
and Perugino : a " Virgin and Child "
hj B, Van Orlay ; and a small early
triptych (panel) with figures of saints
— very good and noticeable. A small
case in this room contains some in-
teresting relics from Cataractonium,
including a Saxon fibula ; plaques of
Limoges enamel; some miniatures;
and a garter and glove worn by
Charles Edward, the " Young Che-
valier.** The Dining-room contains
two wonderfully fine portraits by
NiehoUti Maas, said to represent the
Dutch poet Jacob Cats and his wife.
The portrait of the wife is signed and
dated 1669; Cats the poet died in
1060 ; so that, if they really represent
him and his wife, they must have been
painted by Maas after some earlier
and perhaps inferior pictures. Here
is also a fine copy of Ra£Faelle's Leo X.
A small " Pietk " is called VandyJc,
In the Break/cut-room is the portrait,
by Xe/y, of Miss Lawson — " virtuous
only found" among the beauties of
Chas. II.'s Court.
Fragments of columns, and two
small lions carved in stone, from
Cataractonium, are preserved in the
garden. The lions (it has been
suggested) may have been connected
with the Mithraic worship introduced
in the north of Britain by Caracalla.
A road of a little more than 1 m.
leads from Brough Hall to CctUeriek
Church, of considerable interest to
the ecclesiologist, since the contract
for building it (in 1412), between
*' Richard of Cracall, mason, and
Dame Catherine of Burgh," is still
preserved, and was edited by the late
Dr. Baine. The ch. has been "re-
stored." 'Catterick is an excellent
example of true " preservation," The
ch., ded. to St. Anne, is of course
Perp. — plain, and only of special
interest from the fact of its date
being so clearly ascertained. The
deep outer mouldings of the main
arches are remarkable. Some screen-
work, and the original flat wooden
roof, remain. In the wall of the S.
aisle, under a recessed canopy, is
the effigy of Walter de Urswick,
Constable of Bichmond (still living
in 1378), brought from the ch., which
was pulled down when Master Cra-
call had completed his labours. The
N. aisle is the burial-place of the
Burghs, and contains some good
brcisses: John de Burgh (d. 1412)
and his wife, Katherine, foundress of
the ch. (inscription only); WHliam
Burgh, d. 1442 ; and Win. his son, d
1465 (effigies) ; Wm. Burgh, " hujus
cantar. fund." (founder of this
chantiy), d. 1492 (effigies of him-
self and wife). The font has some
shields of anns, and an inscription
not easily decipherable. Over the
porch (called Our Lady's Porch) are
the arms of Burgh (swans), Aske, and
Lascelles. In the chancel is the
monument of Richard Braithwaite,
called " Dapper Dick " by his boon
companions at Catterick, but better
known as " Drunken Bamaby ; "
whose ' Itinerary ' in Latin and
English verse was first published in
1638.
The churchyard may possibly have
been an ancient camp. PcUet HiU,
a large tumulus near it, was, per-
haps, connected with this early for-
tification. This is little more than
conjecture; but the whole country
between the Swale and the Tees
abounds in camps, dykes, and en-
trenchments, all of which have been
most carefully surveyed (at the cost of
the 4th Duke of Ncnihumberland) by
Mr. Maclachlan. {Archaeol, Journai,
vol. vi.)
The most remarkable of these
dykes ran somewhat W. of the Ro-
man road from near Richmond to
326
Boute 25. — BoUon-on^Swale — Bichmond.
Stanwickt where it was connected
with the singular earthworks in
which the house of Siamciek Park
is placed, and thence to the Tees.
Diderston HiU (700 ft. ; N. of the
road to Bowes, which branches off at
Violet Grange), and Caldwell Camp
(450 ft. ; N. of Stanwick), command
the cotmtry through which this great
dyke ran. The Stanwick earthvsorks
have been looked upon as the site of
British village ; but this is quite un-
certain, and the dyke may be of still
more ancient date. Much has been
destroyed ; but portions (see the map
in Maclachlan's sur\'ey) are still very
strongly marked.
In the churchyard of Bolton-cn-
Stcale, across the river, opposite
Catterick, is buried the famous
''Old Jenkins,'* whose life, if the
accounts were accurate, would have
been one of the longest on record.
He died in 1670, aged, as it was
said, 169. He declared that he could
well remember the Dissolution of the
monasteries, and the mustering of
the English forces before the battle
of Flodden, when, as a boy of 12, he
was sent to Northallerton with a
horse-load of arrows. (" Old Parr *'
died in 1G35 at the reputed age of
152. These are the two longest lives
which have been claimed as au-
thentic; but it has always been
doubted whether the age of Jenkins
was really so great as he asserted,
and Mr. Thorns?' Longevity of Man ')
has disposed of the question. He
died at EUerton; and the parish
register of Bolton records, " 1670,
Decem. 9, Henry Jenkins, a very aged
andpoore man of EUerton, buryed."
His last wife had been buried there,
Jan. 27, 1668. An obeliskal mont.,
stating his name and age, and that it
was erected by contribution in 1743,
is in the ch.-yd.
The rly. crosses the Swale about
1 m. below Richmond. The ruins
of Easby Abbey are seen rt., and
those of St. Martinis Priory 1., as,
below thick woods that overhang the
rushing river, the train reaches
Richmond Stat. Richmond Clnru
the King's Head, good; Pop. of
parish in 1881, 4502) is one of the
most picturesquely placed towns in
England. The Swale, in a rocky and
broken bed, a true mountain stream,
flows round the foot of the hill ; and,
cresting a precipice above the river,
rises the great castle of the Breton
earls, magnificent even in decay. The
stat. is on the rt. bank of the Swale,
and the town is approached by a
modem bridge.
After the Conquest Bichmond be-
came the head of all this country, as
Cataractonium had been during the
Roman period. At Gilling, 3 m. N.
(whence the Wapentake is named),
was the chief stronghold of Earl
Eadwin, brother of Morcar. After
Eadwin's last revolt, and his death
in 1072, his lands, in this part of
Yorkshire, were bestowed by the
Conqueror on Alan the Red, one of
the sons of Eudo Duke of Brittany,
who had joined William's expedition.
Alan received 164 manors in York-
shire : and removing the chief place
of his " honour " from Gilling, esta-
blished it in a situation more proper
for a Norman stronghold —
"'Where the castle of Richmond stands high
on the hlU."
He founded the castle, gave the
place its Nonnan name, and became
the first Earl of Richmond. The
new " Honour '' comprised altoge-
ther 440 numors (mcluding those of
« Richmondshire " itself), scattered
throughout England. The town of
Richmond, as usual, grew up under
the shadow of the castle, and the
borough became of sufficient import-
ance to give its name to new civil
and ecclesiastical divisions of the
country — ^'* Richmondshire "* and the
archdeaconiy of Richmond.
The fourth Earl of fochmond
Boute 25. — Bichmond : Cattle.
827
married the heiress of the Breton
dukedom. His son, Conan, thus
became both Duke and Earl ; and it
was he who built the massive keep of
Bichmond Castle, which still exists.
His daughter was the Lady Constance
of Shakspeare's * King John : ' the
mother of Arthur, and of the still
more unfortunate Eleanor ** la Brette."
Henceforth the Dukes of Brittany
retained their English possessions
on but an uncertain teniure; since
whenever, in time of war, they at-
tached themselves to the kings of
France, their honour of Bichmond was
forfeited and passed into the hands of
the English Crown. It was finally
severed in the reign of Rich. 11.,
and was afterward held, but without
the earldom, by Ralph Neville, first
Earl of Westmoreluid. The earl-
dom was granted (for life) to Ed-
mund Tudor, and to George Duke of
Clarence. Henry VH., who claimed
the title of £arl of Richmond
through his descent from John of
Gannt, to whom it had been given
by Edw. in., transferred the name,
alter his accession, to the palace
he rebuilt at Shene, on the Danks
of the Thames. The first Duke of
Richmond was HenryFitzroy, na-
tuMl son of Hen. VlII. After his
death the title was not revived
until 1613, when Lodowic Stuart,
Duke of Lennox, was created Earl,
and, in 1623, Duke of Richmond.
Finally, the dukedom, with the site
of the castle — ^all the rest of the
hononr had been long alienated —
was bestowed on Charles Lennox,
natural son of Chas. II., who is re-
presented by the present duke.
The *Ca80s is, of course, the first
point of interest in Richmond. It is
approached by a lane opening from
the market-place. A space of 5 acres,
on the summit of a rock, which pro-
jects over a bend of the river, is
surrounded by waJls and buildings,
which should be examined in due
(vder, the great keep- tower being.
of course, the most prominent. This,
stem and massive, and with scarcely
a tuft of vegetation along its ledges,
has not been " mouldered into beauty,"
but still *' frowns with all its battle-
ments,'* almost as when it passed from
the hands of Duke Conan's masons.
Some earlier remains, however, exist
in the buildings of the enceinte,
which may first be visited.
L. of the entrance is BMn Hood's
Tower (the name is probably modem),
in the lower portion of which is
the Chapel of St. Nicholas (18 ft. by
10 ft., 12 ft. high). The E. end is
apsidal, with a long loophole light,
the sill of which formed the aUar.
The walls are arcaded. It is of early
Nomi. character, and may have been
part of the first Earl's buildinff. An
upper floor beyond this tower £ows a
second chapel of later date, with a tre-
foiled piscina remaining. The GoZden
Tower is so called from a tradition
that a treasure was once found in it.
The basement story, once completely
dark, and sunk below the level of
the castle-yard, has been used as a
prison. A fracture in its western
wall used to be considered as the
mouth of a subterranean passage
leading under the river to St. Martin's
Priory; and it may be questioned
whether Speed had better authority
for inserting on his map of Richmond
in 1610 the locality of a " vault that
goeth under the river and ascendeth
up into the castell" from the high
ground opposite to the S. side of
ScoOan^s Halt, This hall, which
adjoins the Golden Tower, deserves
careful examination. Unroofed as
it is, it is one of the most perfect
Norm, halls of its class remaining
in England; since, although many
halls with Norman keeps still exist,
there are few which, like this, form
a distinct building. It probably
served as the great banquetmg-room
of the castle, and was an upper apart-
ment, approached from the exterior
by stairs at the S.W. angle. (Other
rooms adjoined it E., and there was
828
Boute 25. — Etchnond : Castle.
probably a separate access from
them.) On eacn side of the hall are
2-lighted windows, divided bv a
central shalf. The corbelling which
sapported the roof is perfect. It
has been asserted that this hall
is of earlier date than the keep ; but
the details are so similar as to make
it probable that it also was the work
oi Dnke Conan. ScoUand, who gave
his name to the hall, was Lord of
Bedale (Mon. Angl., i. 401) and
•« dapifer " of Earl Alan m., several
of whose charters he witnessed, and
was living in 1145. He was one of
the great tenants of the Honour,
who were bound to take their share
in the ^* watch and ward** of the
castle.
In the early part of the 16th cent,
a large space adjacent to the S. wall
of the enceinte was occupied by the
pantiy, buttery, kitchens, and other
offices. The turret at the S.W. angle
is now nearly filled up with rubbi& ;
but it appears to have been con-
structed as a place of confinement,
the entrance being at the top, and
eommnnicating with the path on the
smnmit of the mantel wall.
In the W. wall of the castle-yard
is a large window-like opening which
never seems to have been filled with
tracery; and there are no traces of
walls on each side to show that there
had been a contiguous structure. It
marks, however, the position of the
principal chapel of the castle, which
seems to have been founded in 1278
by John of Brittany, Earl of Bich-
mond, son of the Duke of Brittany.
There is in Gale^s 'Begister'a con-
vention made in that year between
him and the abbot and convent of
Effliston, whereby the latter, in con-
sideratiai of the endowment men-
tioned, agree to find six chaplains,
canons of their church, " divina cele-
brantes in castro Bichmundin in per-
petuum.** An enclosed space within
the castle was provided for the resi-
dence of the chaplains. The manner
in which hajl and chapel stand apart
from the keep, " shows how completely,
at all events in castles of this palatial
kind, the keep was merely an occa-
sional place of defence." — Freemanj
iv. 296, note.
The great Keep^ to which we turn
last, is one of tne finest and most
perfect Norm, keep-towers in Eng-
land. Those of Dover, of Newcastle,
and of the Tower of London, can
alone be fairly compared with it.
Norwich has been entirely modern-
ized; whilst Bochester, Canterbury,
and other keeps of the same date,
are in ruins. It was piobaUy (al-
though this is not so certain as to
admit of no question) the work of
Duke Conan (1146-1171); and we
may fairly suppose that the fame of
its newly finished strength had been
spread abroad throughout the north
in 1174, when, according to the
rhyming chronicle of JoHan Fan-
tosme (edited for the Surtees
Society), the first question asked by
Heniy II., on the invasion of the
Scottish king, WiUiam the Lion, was,
'* Is Banulph de GlanviUe " (Henry's
ffreat Justiciary and most powerful
baron) « in Bichemunt ? " The keep
is 100 ft. high, and the exterior
walls are 11 ft. thick. Whilst other
portions of the castle had fallen
mto ruin so early as the reign of
Edw. ni. (owing probably to the
indifference of its later Breton
lords), this tower has sufiFercd little
or nothing from time; though its
antique effect, as seen from within
the court, is damaged by some modem
" pointing " of the masonry, and by a
modem portal.
The walls of the keep (built of
Oatherley Moor sandstone) are
flanked by flat buttresses, which rise
at the angles into solid turrets, over-
capping the main tower. These
turrets, and the buttresses between
them, are of later date than the rest
of the work. The chief entrance is
on the S. side, and on a level with
the fint floor; but below this is
Boute 25. — Bichnond : Church.
329
(vei7 unusually) an enriched portal
opening to the vaults underneath,
which are carried by a central
octagonal pillar. The pillar and
vaulting, however, are insertions, as
is Ihe circular staircase. Here is a
well, sunk in the natural rock, form-
ing the floor; and a circular stair-
case, in the left-hand comer, leads to
the floor above. The interior of the
keep has been "restored.** Floors
(which had disappeared) have been
reliud for the several stories, and the
building now serves as a store for the
accoatrements of the militia. Under
these circumstances it is not easy to
follow the ancient arrangement.
(There are plans and descriptions of
the keep in the * Journal of the Ar-
chaeol. Inst.* vol. i.) The principal
hall, however, was on the first floor
(above the vaults), with three laree
windows looking N. over the
town; the staircase, on the S.
side, overlooking the enceinte and
the river. Above the hall are two
other stories, through which yon
climb to reach the bamements. The
view from them is one of the very
finest in England. On one side the
^e ranges up the wild hollow of
Swaledue, and on the other over
Ihe fertile plain of Mowbray, to the
distant towers of York and to the
estuaiT of the Tees. Far below, the
river foams and dashes over its rocky
bed, through a grand broken fore-
ground, with trees and hanging
banks. The '*riche munt** here
shows itself fully entitled to its
name; and although the climb to
the top of the tower is laborious, it
should on no account be omitted.
In the Castle Court are some
bairaeks, whichj though not bad in
sfyle, do not assist us in recalling
the days of Duke Conan and the
ermine shield of Brittany. A piece
of ** folk lore ^ which has been local-
ized in various places — among others,
under the triple height of Eildon and
at Freeburgh Hill in Cleveland, see
Rte, 15— has found a home at Rieh-
mond Castle. Arthur and his knights
are said to lie under the " roots of
the great tower, spell-bound in mys-
terious sleep. A certain Potter
Thompson was once led into the
vault, where he saw the king and
his knights, and, on a great table, a
horn and sword. He ^gan to draw
the sword; but as the sleepers
stirred, he was frightened, and drop-
ped it, when a voice exclaimed, —
** Fbtter. Potter Thompson,
if thuu liadst either dnwn
The sword, or blown the horn,
Tbon'd been the Inckiest nun
That ever yet was bom.**
The exterior of the castle is best
seen from the opposite hilL There is
a walk close under the walls, which
the tourist should follow throughout.
Here he will see the manner in which
the foundations have been planted
on the rock. He should cross the
Swale by the bridge at the end of
Bargate, and mount to the top of the
hill. From this point the extent
and general position of the castle
will be readily understood. The
unusual height of the keep is here es-
specially noticeable ; and the shadows
and varied lights, changing along its
different sides, add to its picturesque
effect. Above the bridge you should
walk a short distance up the rt. bank
of the river, as far as an old lime-
kiln. This is a good point ior the
artist, with the great keep towering
above a wooded foreground. Rich-
mond Castle has long oeen a favour-
ite subject for the pencil; Turner's
magnificent drawing' (first engraved
for Whitaker's * Kichmondshire *)
bearing away the bell.
The parish Church of Richmond,
which stands on the hillside near the
stat., was restored and in effect
rebuilt, under the care of ^V G, O.
ScoU, The greater part of the
choir, the clerestory of the nave, and
the tower are Perp., the rest Dec.
The old work has been used wherever
possible; the new is enriched with
330
Bottte 25. — Bichmond — HipmoeU.
some good sculpture. Of the old,
2 Norm, piers remain at the W. end.
The stained glass in the windows is
modem, with the exception of some
shields in the E. window. The
screen and stall-work in the choir
was hrought from Easby Abbey (see
pott), and is of great beauty. It is
of the usual Yorkshire type, the
arches being left far more open than
in the richer screens of Devonshire
or Norfolk. The subsellia have somo
curious devices; among which is a
sow playing on the bagpipes to her
young ones, who dance around. The
stall of the abbot (marked by a
shield with a tun, and the letters
" ba " pierced by a pastoral staff,
and surmounted by a scroll inscribed
" Abbot," the device of Abbot
Bampton, whose election to the
abbacy was confirmed in 1515) is
occupied by the mayor, whose mace
is proudly reared in front of it. At
the S. of the modem reredos is an
inscription recording the rebuilding of
the en.
In the chancel has been replaced
a heavy monument to Sir Timothy
Hutton of Marske, who died " Anno
ultimsB patientiee sanctorum, 1629."
The inscriptions, in which his own
name and his wife*s are played upon
in various ways, should be read.
The Perp. tower remains unaltered.
It was possibly the work of Balph
Neville, 1st Earl of Westmoreland, to
whom the Honour of Bichmond was
S anted in 1399. The church of
ichmond had been given to the
Abbey of St. Mary at York at a vciy
early period.
The churchyard is remarkable as
the scene of the well-known lines,
written in it by Herbert Knowles,
who died in 1817, aged 19 :—
'* Metbinkfl it is good to be here.
If tboa wilt let us build— but for whom ?
Nor Elias, nor Moses appear;
But th« shadows of eve that encompass the
gloom —
The abode of the dead, and the place of the
tomb."
At the comer of the churchyard
is the Grammar School, generally
known as the T<Ue Testimonial, ft
having been completed in 1850, as a
memorial of the labours of the Rev.
James Tate, who was master of the
old Grammar School for 37 years,
and sent forth among his scholars
many who attained great eminence.
Among them was Dr. Musgrave,
the lateAbp. of York (1847-1 860).
Mr. Tate became a Canon of St.
Pauls in 1833, and then resigned
his charge. The school is one of
those founded by Queen Elizabeth.
Trinity Church, in the Market-
place, has been so desecrated as to call
for little notice. The chancel has
disappeared, and a dwelling-house
intervenes between the nave (Dec.)
and the tower (Perp.). It is, how-
ever, still used as a en.
More interesting is the Tower of
Grey Friars (Franciscans), in the
garden of J. J. Robinson, Esq. It
was the central tower of tlieir ch.,
and is the sole remaining fragment
of a house of Franciscans, founded
in 1258, by Ealph Fitz-Ranulph, the
last lord of Middleham of that race
(see Middleham, Rte. 23), in con-
junction with the Scropes. The
tower, a very graceful composition,
is Perp. ; and, according to tradition,
the ch. of which it formed a portion
was never finished. It was to these
« Freers of Richmonde " that Ralph
of Rokeby gave the Felon sow
" to mend their farer which caused
such infinite trouble in the bringing
home, although "Freer Middleton"
conjured her on Greta Brid^ with
"cross and creed.** — See Bokebyy
Rtc. 26.
Rather more than 1 m. from Rich-
mond, S.E., is the village of HipneeU^
which there is every reason for re-
garding as the birthplace of Wicldife
the reformer. There is some con-
fusion in the original printed versions
Boute 26. — Easby Abbey.
381
of Leland's * Itinerary' where the
name appears, there wing no such a
place as Spreswell. But, very for-
tunately, in an account of places
taken from Leland's * Itinerary,' and
digested in topographical order, about
100 years after he wrote (Harl. MS.
842), the passage is given at full
length: — "They saye that John
Wiclif, heereticus, was borne att
Ipreswell, a poore village a good mile
from Eichmont." It is thus clear that
in Leland's time there was a tradition
that the reformer was bom at Hips-
well, the name of which was no doubt
given to Leland in a broad Yorkshire
tone — Whence his spelling " Ipreswell."
The tourist should on no account
leave Bichmond without visiting
Easby Abbey (1 m. E.) and the Race-
course (IJ m. N.). From the latter
a mflgnificent view is commanded.
(a) The walk from Richmond to
Easby passes below the parish ch.,
and turns off I. before crossing the
rly. bridge. Nothing can be more
lovely. The river, broad, sparkling,
and rocky, and overhung by great
trees, accompanies the path rt. ;
1. the bank rises well w(X)ded, but
leaving a stretch of green meadow
ground between it and the Swale.
On this meadow stand the ruins,
affording, in combination with the
graceful lines of the hills and the
masses of rich foliage, a series of
pictures which can hardly be sur-
The abbey was founded in 1152,
for Premonkratensian Canons, by
Roald, Constable of Richmond Castle,
and was thus in building at the same
time as the great keep of Richmond.
It was dedicated, like the neighbour-
ing ch. of Gilling, to St. Agatha.
(The parish ch. of Easby is ded. to
St. Agatha. Besides these. Bright-
well, in Berkshire, is the only ch. in
Enc^land so dedicated.)
Owing probably to its position on
the bank of the river, the ground-
plan of Easby ]a very irregukr, and
not easily intelligible. The cloister
is duly placed on the S. side of the
nave: but its western walk slants
toward the S.E., and all the sur-
rounding buildings are thus thrown
out of rectangular order. W. of the
cloister are the dormitory and a large
common room (?). Dormitory and
conmion room (?), where the canons
were allowed the comfort of a fire
(the fireplace remains), are marked
by the foundation of a row of central
columns. All this part is Trans.-
Nonn. and E. E. of very plain cha-
racter, except an enriched doorway,
engraved in Whitaker's * Richmond-
shire.' S. of the cloister is the long
refectory (Dec, with a fine E. window
— the reading-pulpit is evident in the
2nd side window from the E.), and
below it, W., the kitchen. On the
E. side is the chapter-house (E. E.),
with the library above it and the
sacristy. Between the chapter-house
and the refectory is a small tower,
which seems to have been the prison
of the monastery. The church, most
irregularly shaped, had a N. aisle,
with the Scrope chantry projecting
from it for ehoui half its length.
The cloister intruded on what would
have been the S. aisle ; but the PJre-
monstratensians, whose order abjured
processions, and was one of great
severity, preferred, long narrow naves
(as at Bayham in Sussex). The
chancel is long, and aisleless. The
transept had eastern aisles, of which
the columns remain. Adjoining the
N. transept was the Abbot's house,
with a small oratory, marked by a
piscina. It was from the ch. of this
monastery that the stalls in Rich-
mond church, and the screen-work
now in the church of Wensley
(Rte. 24), were removed at the Dis-
solution.
Adjoining the mill-race, which
still serves the mill of the abbey, is
the ancient granary, perfect, and still
in use. The great Gateway, beyond
the parish ch., is a very fine example
of B. Dec. (temp. Edw. I.). The
332
Itouie 25. — Bidhmond — Eashy,
apartiuent above it, generally called
toe Kecord-room, was far more
probably the guest-chaiuber of the
monasteiy. The gateway itself has
one great pointed arch of 2 wders,
the third and inner order being semi-
circular. ** Above this is a string,
then a 2-light window with go^
early tracery, and above this, in the
apex of a steep gable, another 2-light
window, the whole very simple and
beautiful, and early in the stvle," —
J. H. P.
The red-brick house on the hill
above is the residence of B. M.
Jaques, Esq.
Tne little parishC%ttrc/i,which closely
adjoined the abbey, was originally
Trans.-Norm., but was so greatly
altered during the Perp. peri<xl, that
a commission was issued, May 17,
1424, to the Bp. of I^omore, to
" dedicate " (re-dedicate ?) it and its
cemetery. Above the porch is a
priest's room, with fireplace. This
ch. was (1869) restored (^Sir G. O.
Seott, archit.), and some curious and
early wdl-paintings discovered in it
have also oeen partly " restored," at
the hands of Messrs. BurlUon and
OryU$. A shield of Scrope (there
are others of Aske and Conyers) on
the porch is the sole memorial of that
ereat house now remaining at Easbv.
In the monastic ch., however, nearly
all the Scropes of Bolton, including
the builder of that castle (see Bte.
24), were interred: and on their
visits to Easby they were received
with solemn ceremony and proces-
sion, as patrons and part founders of
the house. John, Abbot of Easby,
was one of the witnesses produced
by Richard le Scrope in the memo-
rable Scrope and Grosvenor contro-
versy in 1389. In his deposition he
describes the tombs of the Scropes in
the abbey ch. ; and says that their
arms were to be seen there *' in win-
dows, in tablets before altars, on
vestments, in glass of the chambers
and of the refectory, and also on a
oorporas case of silk."
On the green, S. of the ch., is a
large tree, known as the Abbotts
Elm, which probably witnessed the
expulsion of the canons from their
ancient home.
In returning to Bichniond the
visitor may look (about halfwaj
between Easby and the town) for
some traces of the great earthen
dyke which ran from the Swale at
this point to the Tees at Grainford.
They are here, but faint. (See anU^
Catterick.)
On the rt. bank of this river, a
littie beyond the station, is the ruin
of 8L Martin's Priory — a cell at-
tached to the Abbey of St. Mary at
York. The chapel was given to that
monastery, probably about 1100 — the
charter is not dated — by Wyomer
Lord of Aske, steward to the Earl of
Richmond. The house here con-
sisted of 9 or 10 Benedictines, and
its annual value at the Dissolution
was 47L (gross). A Norman door-
way in the little ruined chapel (now
part of the surrounding farm-build-
ings) is the most interesting relic.
(6) The Bacecoufse is about 1} m.
from Richmond, N. In climbing the
hill toward it, remark the view of
the town, with the castle dominating
it in true mediaeval fashion. Still
higher, the river opens W., with its
broad rocky bed, and the noble banks
of trees which clothe it. From the
grand stand on the course one of
those vast prospects is obtained which
perhaps in England only Yorkshire
can snow. The great central plain
stretohes below uie spectator from
York to the Tees, with rt the hills
enclosing Swaledale and Wensleydale
(among which Pen Hill, with its flat
top. is conspicuous), and 1. the ranges
of Hambledon and Cleveland. 'Die
towers of York Minster and Dar-
lington Church (more than 45 m.
apart as the crow flies) are visible
at once ia clear weather; and it is
Baute ^b.—SmLledale—Beeth.
888
9aid that Durham Cathedral is also to
be seen.
(e) The upper 'part of SuHjleddU
mav be visitea from Richmond. The
tourist may make a day's expedition
to Reeth and back, and in so doing
will become acquainted with some
very pleasing scenery; but to ex-
plore the higher and wilder part of
the dale, he should arrange to sleep
at least one night at Reeth, where
there is a tolerable Inn (the Buck).
Swaledale is wild and picturesque,
but certainly less so than Wensley-
dale or Teesdale. Its lead-mines are
of great importance, and those who
care for mining operations will find
them worth a visit. Only a pedes-
trian, however, who is not too par-
ticular as to accommodation, will
explore satisfactorily the " head " of
the dale.
A good road passes up Swaledale
as far as Reeth. It starts from Rich-
mond, on the N. side of the stream.
(Before crossing the river observe on
the S. side a singular ereen hill,
called the " Round Howe.^ Near it
is a cavern named " Arthur'g Oven '').
It soon crosses the river, and proceeds
through the beautiful scenery already
notic^ (Rte. 23, Excursion from
Leybnm to Richmond) under 4 m.
Manke (J. T. D'Arcy Button, Esq.).
The Hnttons have been settled at
A^rske since the beginning of the
17Ui cent., and removed then from
Priest 8 Button, in Lancashire. The
house has produced two Abps. —
Matthew Hutton, translated from
Durham to York in 1595, died 1606
— "a learned prelate," says Fuller,
** who lived a pious man, and left a
pious memory : and a second Mat-
thew Hutton, translated from Bangor
to York in 1747, and thence to Can-
terbury in 1757, died 1758. A gold
cup, presented by Queen Elizabeth
to the first Abp., remains among
the treasures of Marske, which in-
clude some pictures and portraits of
interest, among them portraits of the
two Abps. ; the widow and son of Sir
W. Raleigh ; Sir Conyers D'Arcy, the
Royalist; and a beautiful picture of
the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth.
The views from various points in the
park are of great beauty.
3| m. beyond Marske are the ruins
of ElUrion Priory, a small house of
Cistercian nuns, founded (temp. Hen.
II.) by Warner, sewer (dapifer) of
the Earl of Richmond. The shell
of the little church (without aisles or
transepts) remains, but is without
interest 1 m. further on, on the N.
side of the Swale, stood Marrieh
Priory^ founded early in the reign of
Hen. II. by Roger de Aske for Sene-
dictine nuns. The roofless chancel
seems to have been their chapel,
whilst the nave served as the parish
ch. There are a few ancient tomb-
stones.
Near Qrinton (1} m. from Mar-
rick) where the river is again crossed,
are some early intrenchments, tmnuli,
and camps (one 1} m. £. is known as
the ''Maiden Cki9Ue'\ Grinton
(which has an ancient church of no
great interest) is the mother-parish
of Swaledale, all the upper part of
which, up to the Westmoreland bor-
der, is included in it
At Freeminglon, between Grinton
and Reeth, horse-trappings (?^ of
brass, inlaid with silver, have been
found, and deposited in the museum
at York. They belong to the Roman
period ; and there can be little doubt
that the lead-mines here were worked
by that people.
Beeik (7nn, the Buck), about i m.
from Grinton and 10 m. from Rich-
mond, is placed on the Arhlebeok,
which here descends through Arhen-
garthdale to join the Swale. This is
now the mining capital of the dale,
and is the best point from which to
explore Arkengarth and Upper
334
Baute 28.—Muker—Ketd.
Swaledale. At this point the good
road ceases. The scenery becomes
much wilder and sterner, and the
toorist must be content with rough
tracks, and (if he sleep at Muker or
at Thwaite) very homely accommo-
dation.
In the hills which border Arken-
garthddle some of the most produc-
tive lead-mines in the district are
worked. The best are those on the
slope toward the Arkle, of GrecU Pin
Seat (1914 ft.), on the W. side of the
dale. For the last 10 years the lead-
imnes of Swaledale have yielded an
average annual produce of 1500 tons.
They have been worked from a very
early (perhaps from the British)
period, and the hills throughout the
district are covered with traces of
worked-out and abandoned mines.
The lower part of Arkcngarthdale
is bordered E. by a long range of
limestone scars, which continue for
some miles, and are striking as seen
from Beeth. The dale is picturesque,
but is hardly worth exploration for
the sake of its scenery only. Towards
its upper part a branch road crosses
the Arkle, and proceeds over Bar-
ningham Moor to Barnard Castle.
The distance from Reeth is about
12 m,
From Beeth to Muker (9 m.) there
is a somewhat rough road along the
N. bank of the Swale. The river,
true mountain stream as it is, gives
in the season when it is osuidly seen
by tourists little notion of its destruc-
tive strength during the floods of
winter and early spring. Then, in
Mason's words,
" The aavage spirit of old Swale is roused —
He howls amid }i\Btotaa,"-KngU9k Garden.
Banks and buildmgs, especially in the
lower part of the dale, are frequently
swept awav; and the floods on the
tributary becks, esnecially on the
Arkle, are scarcely less sudden and
dangerous. The dale beyond Reeth
narrows, and its steep sides are
sometimes covered with wood. On
the N. there is a sweep of wild,
broken moorland, rising to the water-
shed that divides Swaledale from the
valley of the Tees. The highest
summits are Pin Seat (1914 ft.), and,
further W., Rogans Seat (2204 ft).
Towering above the road, in the
angle between the Swale and the
Arkle, is CWwy(1599 ft.). All these
hills are of mountain limestone, with
occasional gritstone cappings. Lime-
stone scars run along the edge of the
dale in places between Beeth and
Muker. On the Ivelet hecJc, which
falls into the Swale (rt.) about 1 J m.
from Muker, are 2 good fosses, each
descending between 40 and 50 ft.
MuJcer (Inn, the White Hwt, very
poor and rough) is without interest
in itself; but the Old Gang lead-
mines, perhaps the most ancient in
the district, lie nearly opposite, N.
(There is a poor but very clean
public-house, which the pedestrian
may find useful, at Thwatte, ]} m.
beyond Muker. Either from Thwaite
or from Muker you may cross the
Buttertub8 Pass into Wensleydale,
and descend upon Hawes. (See Rte.
24a.) This is the proper direction
in which to take this walk — ^it is
possible to drive across, but the rood
is tremendously steep and rocky —
since the great views from the sum-
mit of the pass lie southward. In
clear weather there is a grand prob'
pect of mountain peaks.)
From Muker the road turns north-
ward, following the stream to Ketd,
a small mining village under Keasdim
(1686 ft.), a very picturesque ma.ss vi
limestone, girdled with brukon bears,
and dividing the dale, whicli brauclies
round it in two narrow elens. The
river runs through the eastern
valley. Below Keld is a water-
fall (30 ft.), called Keasdon Force.
which is worth a visit. After
flinging itself over the force, the
Bouie 26.— Kddr-ABle Hatt.
335
river passes throagh a narrow ravine,
from which two glens branch out W.;
£. rises Bogan's 8eaL ^ This steep
craggy sylvan glen, shut in upon
three sides by high monntain walls,
showing throagh its opening upon
the W. the brown moors and the
wavy line of the ridge of the crescent
peaks" (at the he^ of Swaledale),
'*is one of the finest and most in-
teresting portions of the river/* —
J. O. Baker. A mile above Keasdon
is Cairigg Faroe — ^fine and picturesque
in wet seasons.
Above Eeld the upper part of the
dale stretches toward the sources of
the Swale, in the great crescent of
hills sweeping round from Water
Crag, on tne Westmoreland border,
by Nine 8kmdoiTd» (2153 ft.\ over
lurkby- Stephen, to Qreat Shunnor
FeQ (2S46 ft.). AH these are " crag-
less, treeless, undulated sweeps, with
little to attract botanists or geolo-
gists." This portion of Swaledale,
grand and severe as it is, is far
less picturesque than the ^* heads of
TcesdAle or Wenslevdale; yet for
those who care to explore solitaiy and
little-known tracks of moorland, the
region is not without charm. " Every-
thing indicates an unfrequented dis-
trict— ^the natural ruggedness of the
face of the land, the great flocks of
grouse, the seeming scarcity of habi-
tations, and the speech and personal
appearance of the very few farmers
and shepherds we meet." — W, S.
Bank9, The road from Eeld to
Kirkby-Stephen crosses the ridge,
from which the Swale and Ure de-
scend on one side, and the Lune and
Eden on the other. The views from
the summit are wide and interesting.
From Keld to Kirkby-Stephen the
distance is 10 m.
(The many branch glens which
open into Swaledale, as well as the
main dale, are carefully noticed and
characterised in Mr. J. G. Baker's
* North Yorkshire * which the botanist
should by all means make his com-
panion.)
(d) There is a good road from
Bichmond to Barnard Castle (17 m.),
which passes one or two places of
interest, and crosses the Greta at
Bokeby. On this road, 2 ui., is
Ashe HaU (Earl of Zetland), on
high ground, in a well-wooded park,
and commanding very wide views.
Bosebeny Topping is visible from
the front of the house. Aske was
one of the manors of the family
which took their name from it,
one of whom, Bobert Aske, was the
great leader of the Pilgrimage of
Grace. (The family descended from
Wyomer, the founder of St. Martin's
Priory, Bichmond; and Boger de
Aske assumed that name when he
settled at Aske in the 12th cent.)
1 m. further is QiTUng, the head
of the Wapentake before the Con-
quest. Castle Hill, near the farm-
house of Low Scales, 1} m. S.W. of
the village, marks the site (there
are no remains) of Earl Eadwin's
castle. This, too, was probably the
"Ingetlingmn" of Bede (H.E., iii.
c. 14), where, in 651, Oswin King of
Deira was killed by the "prsefecf*
of Oswi of Bemicia. Oswin had dis-
banded his "^ host,'* and, with a single
follower, had taken refuge at *' In-
getlingum," in the house of Earl
[unvfJd, who betrayed him.
The ch. of Gilling has been nearly
rebuilt, chiefly at the expense of the
Wharton family, formerly of Aske
Hall. In it is a black marble tomb-
slab, with figures, in low relief, of
Sir Heniy Bojmton, and his wife,
d. 1531, the last of the Boyntons of
Sedbury.
From Gilling the road turns N.W.
into the line of the so-called Watling
Street, a branch of the Boman road
that ran durect from Catterick Bridge
to the Tees. This branch turned
off to Bowes (Lavatre). Neither
336
Boute 26.-^Darlingion to Barnard CasUe.
the ch. nor the rained castle of
Kirkby Bavensworth (passed 1.) is
of much interest. The latter was
the castle of the Fitzhoghs (de-
scendants of Akar, the founder of
Jervanlx Abbey, Bte. 23), and after
them of the Parrs. The rams are
late PeiT). Bound a small room, in
a turret between the courts, runs the
inscription — ** xp*c d'n*s ih'c via fons
& origo alpha et oo." The ch. dates
from the end of the 14th cent.
(2 m. rt. of the road is Stan-
wick Park (Duke of Northumber-
land), surrounded hy very remark-
able earthworks, lliese are on the
line of the great djke (see ante)
running from Biclunond on the
Swale to Barford, opposite Gain-
ford, on the Tees. That this deserted
village was really that of Barford
(although it is generally, but without
apparent authority, called Old Bich-
mond) is evident from the fact that the
medifeval manor-house there still re-
tains its ancient and proper name, as
it did when Leland wrote. There is
a very pleasing view from the hiU S.
of the nouse ; and on the summit of
that opposite are the foundations of
the village, which was not altogether
deserted in £lizabeth*s time, since
coins of her reign have been found
there. The outline of the main street,
stretching N. and S., is discernible,
together with the rain of an E. E.
chapel.
Beyond Bavensworth there is little
to notice until the road reaches Qreia
Bridge, where we are in the midst
of the Bokeby scenery. Greta Bridge
is 3} m. from Barnard CadUf and
will best be visited thence at leisure.
For it Bokeby and the surrounding
country, see the following Boute 26,
ROUTE 26.
DARUNGTON TO BARNARD CAST1.E.
(ROKEBY). BOWES CASTLE, AXI>
EQQLESTON ABBEY.
15 m. Bail. : 6 trains daily in 1} hr.
This line of rly., which runs
throughout on the Durham side of
the Tees, is described at length in
the Handbook for Durham. The
principal stations are
Piereehridge Stat, on the site of
the Boman station of Magis, where
the road from Catterick (Catarac-
tonium) to Vinovia (Binchester)
crossed the Tees ;
Gainford Stat, (the ch. has an
altar and other Boman remains, pro<
bably from Magis, built into its walls),
opposite which, on the Yorkshire side
of the river, is Barford, commonly
called Old Bichmond (see Rte. 25),
at which place the Great Dyke,
running across the country from R'ich-
mond on the Swale, teraiinated.
Wimton Stat., where an omnibos
for Staindrop (3 m. rt.) meets the
trains. (For Staindrop Church and
Baby Castle, which is close by, see
the Handbook for Durham.) After
passing Winston we reach
Boute 26. — Baniard Castle,
337
Barnard CkuUe Stat. (1 m. distant
from the town; an omnibus meets
the trains).
Barnard Castle (Inn^ The King*s
Head — old-fashioned and comfort-
able;— good lodgings are to be had
out of tiie town, near the stat., and
the artist will find this place ex-
cellent head-quarters — Pop., 4544)
lies entirely on the Durham side of
the Tees, and is described at length
in the Handbock for Durham. A
short notice of the town is inserted
here, since it is the centre from which
some most interesting excursions may
be made on the Yorkshire side of the
river — ^to be fully described.
(Opposite the King's Head is a
clockmaker's shop, with a large clock-
face, on which the name "Hum-
Shrey" was formally inscribed.
Hckens was staying at the Eling's
Head for some weeks when collecting
materials for < Nicholas Nickleby,'
and took the name of his next book
from this clockmaker and his clock.)
Barnard Castle is most picturesquely
situated on the high rocky bank of
the Tees, though nothing is seen
of the true position of the town in
approaching it from the rly. The
Church of St. Mary is of no great in-
terest, but contains portions ranging
from Norm, to Perp. The Perp. font
deserves notice; also an inscribed
monumental effigy of stone, of Robert
de Mortimer, vicar of Gainford, who
founded a chantrv in this ch. about
the year 1339. The remains of the
Ca^i close behind the King's
Head Inn, should be visited ; not only
on account of their own importance,
but for the sake of * Rokeby,* the first
scenes of which are laid here. It was
founded (1112-32^ by Bernard Baliol ;
and, like some other Nonnan strong-
holds, received it founder*s name,
which it transmitted to the town that
snprang up around, and had survived it.
The Castle remained in the hands of
the Baliols until 1298, in which year
John Baliol (who in 1292 had been
raised to the Scottish throne in prefer-
[Torhthire.']
ence to his rival, Bruce) renounced
his fealty to Edw. I. Barnard Castle
and all his English estates were
then confiscated, and in 1307 it was
made over by Edw. I., with other
estates of the Baliols, to Guy Beau-
champ, Earl of Warwick. From the
Beauchamps the Castle passed to the
Nevilles, on the marriage of Anne of
Warwick to Richard Neville the King-
maker, whose daughter Anne brought
it again to the Crown on her marriage
to the Duke of Gloucester, afterwaiSs
Richard III. It was still in the hands
of the Crown when in 1569 it was
held for 11 days by Sir George Bowes
against the Earls of Northumberland
and Westmoreland, the leaders in the
" Rising of the North.**
''Sir Ckorga Bowes to hU casUe fled.
To Barnard OasUe then fled hee ;—
The nttermotit walls were eathe [eaiiyl to win.
The Eries have won them preaeuUie.
The uttermost walls were lime and bricke;
But though they won them soon anone.
Long ere tbey wan the innermost walles.
For they were cut in roclc of stone."
In the civil wars the Castle was held
by Sir H. Vane, from whom it has
descended to the Duke of Cleveland.
The Castle crowns the summit of
a precipitous rock, rising about 100
ft. above the river, and with " a pro-
jecting shoulder, by means of which
the n!W. quarter is protected natu-
rally by a cliff. The remainder of
the area was covered by a deep and
broad artificial ditch, now mostly
filled up, which intervened between
the N. and E. sides of the castle
and the town. . . . The N. front of
both town and castle received a
further defence from the Percy beck,
a stream which flows into the Tees
about 450 yards higher up."— 6?. T. C.
The plan of the castle is oblong, with
an area divided into 4 wards. The
whole area and the several wards
were protected, where necessary, by
walls and ditches. The outer irard,
on the S., was surrounded only by a
buttressed and embattled wall, of
no very gpreat strength. This ward
z
338
Botite 26.— Barnard Castle.
coald only have been held by a very
strong garrison. It represents the
" uttermost walls " of the ballad,
" easy to win," and " was probably
designed, like the Scottish barmkin,
to Sord a refuge for the townsfolk
and their cattle, supposing the town
to be taken by an enemy.' —Cr. 2' C.
A strong ditch, running E. and W.,
defended the other wafds from this
one. The tovm toard occupied the
N.E. quarter of the area. On the
E. curtain are the remains of a^ rect-
angular building, projecting inward,
and called JBrackenbury^s Tovoer^
There was a main entrance to the
casUe on the N. side, — a round-
headed doorway (late Norm.), flanked
by a half-round tower. Beyond it
(W.) is a square Norm, tower, and
thence a curtain of great height and
strength runs up to the keep. There
was a drawbridge between this town
ward and the middle toardy which
contained stables and offices, now
destroyed, and was also accessible
from the first or outer ward. Beyond
this middle ward is the inner toard,
the most perfect and ciurions part of
the castle, in level about SO ft. above
the rest, commanding the whole
area, and rising grandly over the
Tees. The keep is circular, about
40 ft. in diameter and 50 ft. high to
base of parapet. It has a basement
and 3 upper floors, the state-room
being on the first floor. This is " one
of Uie finest, though not largest,
round towers in England. Its pro-
portions are good, its materials of
proper size and rich colour, and
its very plainness is indicative of
strength.*^— flf. T. C, in the * Builder '
for June 31, 1873. The stone vault-
ing of its first floor, and the staircase
winding round the waUs to the top,
should oe noticed. (It is called the
"round tower" in a MS. 8ur\'ey of
the castle made in 1592, and the name
by which it is sometimes known —
" BalioFs Tower " — seems to be mo-
dem. It is not at all events so named
in Hutchinson's ' Durham,* published
in 1794, and Hutchinson was a native
of Barnard Castle.) The great tower
is occupied by a guide who will show
the chief points of interest. It should ^
be ascended for the sake of the view,
which is magnificent, though scarcely
so far extending as Sir Walter has
described it in the opening to the 2ud
canto of ' Rokeby :' —
" ^Vbat proiipects, from his watch-tower blgh«
Gleam gradual on the warder's eye I
Far BweeplDg to the eaat, he sees
Down, bis deep woods the course of Tees,
And tracks bis wanderings by the steam
Of summer vapours fhim tiio stream. . . .
Kor Tees alone, in dawning bright*
Shall rush upon the ravish^l si^t;
But many a tributary stream.
Each from Its own dark dell shall gleam :
8taindrop, who tmax her sylvan bowers
Salutes proud Baby's battled towers;
The rural brook of Egliston ;
And Balder, named fh>m Odin's son ;
And Greta, to whose bonks ere long
We lead the lovers of the song;
And silver Lune, from Stanmoro wild.
And fairy 'lliorsgiirs murmuring child;
And last and lea&t, but loveliest still.
Romantic Deepdale's slender rill."
At the N.W. angle of this ward
was Mortham Toioer, now a mere
fragment. Between it and the keep
were the hall and other apartments,
on the first floor, as shown by the
two windows of liie hall in the cur-
tain, Dec., but insertions in an older
wall. Between the hall and the
state floor of the keep, above a pass-
age, was an apartment, of which the
bay-window, m the curtain, displays
in its sofiit the "bristly boar" of
Rich. III. This is mainly Perp.,
but some Tudor work has been
added.
The area of the castle, although
it may have been a fortress in the
10th cent., was inclosed by the Nor- '
mans; and the remaining waUs and '
wall-towers are their work. The keep i
and much of the other fragments are |
Dec. I
The Castle should be seen from the
river, and from the walk close under I
its walls, which winds upward from
the bridge. There are some very
Baute 26.—B6keby.
389
beautiful walks through the Flatt
Wood, covering the sides of a narrow
valley which the Harmire beck de-
scends to join the Tees. The Flatt
Wood lies between the Castle and the
rly. stat., and the walk is continued for
some distance up the 1. bank of the
Tees. Seats are placed at intervals.
From many points here most striking
views are obtained of the Castie, with
the river, and the long and picturesque
bridge: the whole walk is rich in
combinations of river-bank and wood
scenery. It should not be neglected
by the artist.
ExeurnoM from Barnard Castle
may be made to, (1) Streatlam Castle,
4 m., the ancient home of the Bowes
family — ^there are some pictures erf in-
terest ; and Staindrop and Baby, 7 m.
These places are in Durham, and are
fully described in the Handbook for
that county. (2) Eggleston Abbey and
Hokeby, 4 m., returning by WyclifEe
and Whorleton Bridge, 7 m. (3)Mid-
dleton in Teesdale, 10 m.; and beyond,
the High Force and CaJdron Snout.
(See the next route for this excursion.)
Deepdale, Eggleston Abbey, and
Thorsgill are within easy walks of
Bamaid Castle ; but Scott has made
all this country as completely his own
as that which lies under the " triple
height" of Eildon; and the tourist
should first make his pilgrimage to
Bokeby, as the centre from whicn the
chaim has been spread.
(a) Boheby (Col. Morritt) lies about
4 m. S.E. of Barnard Castle. The
house is onlv shown in the absence
of the family; but the grounds are
always open. Guides are in attend-
ance at the Inn at Greta Bridge (the
*^Morritt's Arms"), — fair Inn, good
rooms.
The road from Barnard Castle to
Bokeby crosses the Tees by the
" right fair bridge " below Eggleston
Abbey, which had 8 arches in Le-
land's time, but has now only 2.
Here the river flows over broad beds
of marble, the ** mighty trench of
living stone" —
*' Where Tees, fiiU many a &thoin low,
Wmrs with his rage no common foe;
For pebbly bonk, nor sand-bed here,
Nor day-moand, checks his fietDe career.
Condemned to mine a channelled way
O'er solid sheets of marble grey.'*
Bohebyt canto iU
The house of Bokeby itself is seen
among the trees on the rt. bank of the
river, below the bridge. The ruins
o^ Eggleston Abbey stand very pic-
turesquely above the bridge, rt. (For
them see post.) You can descend to
the bed of the river, where the scene
is striking.
The road skirts Bokeby Park for
some distance before reaching Greta
Bridge. Here it joins the line of
Boman road which ran from Catterick
(Cataractonium) to Bowes (Xavatrss,
Itin, Anton,, It ii. and v.;. Close
behind the "Morritt's Arms" is a
small Boman camp (not mentioned in
the Itinerary^ tolerably perfect iii
spite of the plough, —
** the moond
Bailed by that Legkn long renown'd—
• • • • * *
' Stem sons of war !' sad Wilfrid slgh'd,
' Behold the boast of Boman pride 1
What now of all yonr toils are known?
A grassy trench— a broken stone I ' "
Onto it
Su: Walter visited Bokeby for the
first time in June, 1809, and was then
greatly impressed by its scenery,
"It is,** he writes to George Ellis,
"one of the most enviable places
I have ever seen, as it unites the
richness and luxuriance of English
vegetation with the romantic variety
of glen, torrent, and copse, which
dignifies our northern scenery." In
December, 1 811 , he communicated the
design of his new romance to his friend
Mr. Morritt, who replies, at the end
of a long letter full of details, " Should
I, in consequence of rour celebrity,
be obliged to leave Bokeby from the
influx of coGkn^ ranuincerB, artiste,
z2
340
Route 26.— JBofa*y.
illnstrators, and sentimental tourists,
I shall retreat to Ashestiel or to jour
new cottage, and thus visit on jou the
sins of joor writings." In the autumn
of 1812 Scott revisited Rokeby, and
under BCr. Morritt's guidance minutely
examined the scenery of the poem.
The result was that ^ admirable, per-
haps unique, fidelity of the local de-
scriptions,** which gives its greatest
interest to <Bokeby.' "I must
admit," writes Lockhart, "that I
never understood or appreciated half
the charm of the poem until I had
become familiar with its sceneiy."
After passing through a more open
part of tne park—
** Where, up the tanny bank%
The trees retire in •catter'd nnka,
> Save where, advenoed befbre the rest.
On knoll or hillock rears his crest,
Lonelj and hnge, the giant oak **—
the visitor is led to a walk on the left
bank of the Greta, winding onwards
through woods and between steep
rocks, to its junction with the Tees.
The river is crossed at the *< dairy
bridge," below Mortham Tower, and
the path returns on the rt. bank.
" Bokebj, though nigh, is seen no mor^-
t Sbildng "mid GreU^ thickets deep.
▲ wild and darker course they keep :
A stem and lone, yet lovely road.
As e'er the foot of ninstrel trode I
It seem'd some mountain, rent and riven,
A channel for the stream had given,
' Bo high the clillii of Umestono grey
Hang beetling o'er the torrent's way,
Tielding along their rugged base
' A flinty footpathls niggard space."
^ThecUlTs • • • •
Were now all naked, ?rlld, and grey,
Now waving all with greenwood spray ;
Here trees to every creyioe clans.
And o'er the dell their branches hung ;
And there, all splintered and uneven.
The shlver'd rocks ascend to heaven.^
** Now flmn the stream the rooks recede.
Bat leave between no sonny mead.
Bat here, 'twixt rock and river, grew
A dismal grove of sable yew.
With whose sad tints were mingled seen
The bli^ted fira sepalchnd green."
The second canto of 'Rokeby*
should be in the vi8itor*s hands (or
memory) during his walk, " endlang^
Greta side." Crossing the dairy bridge
(underneath which the ** Mortham
dobby," a headless lady, **with a
piece of white silk trailing behind
her," was confined by the parson^s
Latin, until the arch was injured by-
floods and the ghost released^JIfor-
iham Tower is reached, on tne high
rt. bank of the river.
••Twasafkirscene! The sunbeam lay
On battled tower and portal grey :
And from the glassy slope ho sees
The Greta flow to meet the Tees ;
Where, issuing from her darksome bed.
She oaaght the mominf^s eastern red.
And through the softemng vale below
BoU'd her bright waves in rosy glow."
Mortham Tower is a square peel
or border fortress (perhaps the most
southerlv of this peculiar type) of
the 15th cent., witb some outbuild-
ings and additions of Elizabeth*8
time. The whole has been carefully
restored, and is now occupied as a
farm-house. The tower snould be
ascended, although no view of im-
portance is commanded from its
summit On the stairs certain blood-
stains are pointed out, said to be
those of a lady who was killed in the
glen below, and who was afterwards
known as the *< Mortham dobby.**
The three rooks of Rokeby appear on
an outer wall, and again within.
That family had a house on the site
of the existing mansion of Rokeby,
which was burnt down by the Scots I
in one of their forays after Bannock-
bum. The Rokeby of that time had
just acquired McMtham by marriage j
with the heiress of Mansfield; and
instead of rebuilding his ancestral
manor-house, he built one at Mortham.
which was replaced at a later period
by that now remaining. *< Colonel
Rokeby, the hist possessor of the old
blood, was ruined in the civil wan by
his loyalty and unthriftiness, and the
estates were bought by the Robinsons,
one of whom, &e long Sir Thomas
Robinson, so well known and well
Boute 26.^Bokeby—BrignalL
341
5|uutzed in the time of oar grand-
athers, after laying out most of the
estate on this plf^, sold the place
and the estate together to my father
in 1769."— 3f<WTi« to Scott The
« Philip of Mortham " of Sir Walter
is therefore entirely the poet^s crea-
tion.
The *Mnnction of the Greta and
the Tees has'heen drawn hy Turner
(Bichmondshire), as well as described
by Scott — an honour which the
scene well desenres, although, not-
withstanding Sir Walter's extreme
truthfulness, it will perhaps be felt
that both poet and painter have
somewhat '^ exalted ** their subject
Yorkshire herself on the Wharfe, or
Devonshire on her Dartmoor rivers,
can show much and far grander
£cenery of the same character as
that on the Greta. But *'carent
vate sacro.'* Even Wordsworth has
l)een unable to fling over the Wharfe
the wonderful charm that Scott has
added to the natural beauty of
Bokeby.
In an open part of the upper walk
by which we ratum to Greta Bridge,
on the rt. bank of the river, is a
tomb, brought from Eggleston Abbey
to its present resting-place, with the
bad taste of sixty years ago. It is
late Dec, but whose remains it once
covered is unknown — ^possibly those
of a Bokeby or a Bowes. It is made
to play a part in the poem : —
** South of the gate tn amm- flight.
Two mlf^ty elms their limbs unite.
As if a canopy to spread
O'er the lone dwelling of the dead ;
Kor their huge bouKbs In airhes bent
Above a maMve monoment,
Garved o^er In andent Gothic wise
With many a scatcheon and device."
Here is also the efligy of a priest
(late £.£.). Some fine points of
view are obtained in this walk— the
best perhaps at a summer-house
which Mason the poet, who gpreatly
delighted in all this scenery, is said
to have assisted in arranging.
The Kowe of Bokeby is only
shown in the absence of the family.
It contains some good tapestry, one
or two pictures of interest (among
them a Venus with iJie Mirror, by
Vdodguex), and (in the entrance
hall) some fragments and inscrip-
tions from the Boman camp at
Greta Bridge. Some Boman remains
from Burd-Oswald in Cumberland,
g'ven by Lord Carlisle to Sh: Gliomas
[>binson, are also preserved here.
The old church of Bokeby stood near
the back of the house. It was pulled
down by Sir Thos. Bobinson, who
built a new one outside the park.
From Greta Bridge the tourist mar
drive to Wydiife (on the Tees), and,
crossing Whorlton Bridge, return to
Barnard Castle by a rrad oo the 1.
bank of the river (this will be a
round, including the drive to Bokeby,
of 11 m.) ; or he may drive from Wv-
cliffe to Winston, and return by the
Darlington road (a round of 16 m.) ;
or he may drive by Brignall to Bowes,
and return thence to Barnard Castle
(a round of about 18 m.).
(1^ Taking this last round, you
should drive to Brignall Ch., whence
a footpath leads uong ihe buik <^
the (Jreta, emerging again at Moor-
houses, higher up me stream, where
the carriage may be in waiting. The
river here runs between steep wooded
banks, with quarries of flagstone
which have Men worked frran an
ancient period.
** Brignall banks are firesh and fidr.
And Greta woods are green."
The glen usually inovm as " Brig'
naU Banks " lies below Scargill, sud
is the scene of Bertram*s interview
with Guy Denzil.
*< He stands in Scargill wood alonei
Nor hears he now a harsher tone
Than the hoarse cushat's plaintive ciy,
Or Greta's sound that mnrmars bv.
* • • * • *
Twas silence all. He laid him down
'^ Where purple heath proAisely strown*
And thiXMtwort with Its axnre bell.
And moss and thyme his cushion swell*
342
Route 2e.—Greta^WycUffe.
There, spent with toil, he listleas eyed
The ooone of Gieta*8 playful tide
Beneath her banks, now eddying dnn.
Now brightly gleaming to the ann.
Then, tired to watch the carrent's play,
He tnra'd hia weary eyes away
To where the bank oppoeioK show'd
Its hnge square dUfs through Bh^ggy wood.
One, prominent above the rest,
BeaxM to the snn Its pale grey breast;
Arouid its broken summit grew
The haxel mde and sable yew ;
A thousand varied lichens dyed
Its waste and weather-beaten side ;
And round its rugged hub lay,
3y time or thnnder rent away,
Fragments that, from its frontlet torn.
Were mantled now by verdant thorn."
The robbers' cave of the poem,
anarried in the flagstone, is dose to
Ills epot ; and it was here that Mr.
Momtt observed Scott noting " even
the peculiar little wild flowers and
herbs ** that grew round the spot, in
order to give the utmost local truth
to his description.
These woods, and the banks of
Greta, are the scene of the grotesque
poem of the ' Felon Sowe of Bokeby,'
first printed by Whitaker in his
* Hist, of Craven.* It dates from the
end of the 15th cent. The sow,
** the grizeliest beast that ever mote
be/* was
— " bred in Rokeby wood :
Ther were few that thither yoode [went]
That came on lyve away."
'* Her walk was cndlang Greta side."
Balph of Bokeby gave her to the
friars of Bichmond, " full well to gar
them fare ;** and the poem describes
the misadventures of the friars, who
in spite of conjurations, for " the sow
she wdde no Latin hear," were un-
able to bring home *^the beest of
piyce*' until two stout champions
set forth and killed her.
** Whan they saw the Felon come,
Tlicy sang merrilye Te Deum,
The Freeni eve^rch one."
About the year 1789 two leaden
tablets, marked with figures and talis-
manic signs, were found in a heap of
stones on Gbitherley moor above Brig- 1
nail. An inscription ran partly, ^ I
do make this that ... all kin of Phillip
shall fle Bichmondshire and nothing
prosper with any of them in Riche-
mondshire." In the other tablet were
the names of James Phillip (the
father), "Jhon Phillip" and " Ar-
thure Phillip" (sons), all of whoin
the spell was to bnng to "outter
beggary." James Phillip of Brignall.
who died about 1582, and is known
to have had children bearing these
Christian names, was an unjust
steward of the Lord Scrope of Bol-
ton; and as a contemporaiy com-
plained, ^*soo vexithe many poore
menne with proces and suits in the
lawe that theye be utterly nndoone,
and almost readye to goo about in the
cuntrye, or begging, with staff and
pouke." It is a singular coincidence
that, from the close of the 16th cent.,
no branch of the family flourished in
Bichmondshire ; and the name, from
being once common, is now extinct
there.
The drive from '• BrignaU Banks *'
to Bowes passes over wild moor, and
is somewhat dreary. Bowes itself
(see post, Exc. h) is easily reached
by rail from Barnard Castle.
(2) A drive of about 3 m. across a
comparatively level country brings
us from Greta Bridge to Wyeliffe ou
the Tees. The place is of consider-
able mterest, as having possibly
given name to the fsuoiily from
which John Wicliffe, the herald of
the Beformation, sprang in the 14th
cent. (The name is here pronounced
Wycline ; but in the reformer's case
the long vowel may have become
shorten^ in the S. of England. Sir
Walter makes the first syllable long
in * Bokeby,* where "Oswald Wv-
cliffe*' holds Barnard Castle for the
Parliament.) Wycliffe was the chief
residence of the family; but there
is every reason to believe that the
reformer was bom at Hipswell, near
Bichmond (see Bte. 25). Besides
the name of the village, a connection
Boute 2%—Wycliffe—'Sowe8.
343
with the great enemy of the " freers "
is suggested by the common speech of
the district, changed as that has been
since 1820. " Mv father," writes Mr.
Baine (* Lives of the Abps. of York,'
i. 463), " was born within a mile of
the village of Wycliffe, and I have
often heard him say that at the be-
ginning of the present century the
dialect of the neighbourhood was so
identical with the language of the
reformer's version of the New Testa-
ment, that he would undertake to
read any chapter of it to an old per-
son, and it would be understood
thoroughly, with the exception per-
haps of a word or two.
Wycliffe Church, shrouded in ivy,
stands pleasantly on a green hillock
above the river. There is some wood
about it ; and the whole scene, quiet
and tranquil, is little in keeping with
the stormy times to which it sends
back the memory. The ch., late
Dec., has been partly restored, and at
present there are no windows on the
N. side, except one in the nave. The
W. window seems plain E.E. Above
it is a bell-turret of later date. Some
old stained glass remains in the choir
windows. In the chancel, besides
some tomb-slabs, with brasses bearing
inscriptions for members of the Wy-
cliffe family, is an incised slab with
the rude figure of a priest, for " John
Forster, vicar" (instituted to the
rectory in 1435). Outside the ch.,
under the N. wall of the nave, are
some carved fragments, one of which,
with an interlaced pattern, is of early
date; and some tombstones of the
northem type, bearing floriated crosses
with swords. An older church seems
to have been worked up in the walls
of that which now exists. In the
Parsonage close by is a head of Wy-
cliffe, copied by Sir Antonio More
from an earlier portrait. In the rt.-
hand comer is the inscription " John
Wicliffe, died ano 1384.'* This pic-
ture was presented as an " heirloom "
to the parsonage by Dr. Zouch, a
former vicar. Wijdfffe Hall (J. J. H
Taplin, Esq.), on the site of the old
house of the Wycliffes, is not far
from the ch,, down the river.
From Wycliffe you may take the
shorter route back to Barnard Castle,
by crossing Whorlton Bridge, a little
distance up the river. By the longer
route (by Winston) there are some
pleasant views of tiie valley of the
Tees — an undulating, wooded coun-
try, but not so picturesque as at and
about Rokeby. There is a good
view from Winston Bridge. On the
Darlington road, by which we return
to Barnard Castle, Eaby Castle and
woods are seen rt.
(&) Bovm Stat, may be reached by
rly. in J hr. from the Barnard Castle
Stat. The Tees is crossed by a via-
duct 732 ft. long, and 142 ft. high in
the centre (cost of erection 25,1 19Z.).
There is an intermediate station at
Lartington, above Lariington Mall
(Rev. Thos. Witham), a house for
the most part modem, but contain-
ing some portions temp. Charles I.
There is a large musemn, chiefly of
minerals and geological specimens,
collected by the father of the pre-
sent proprietor; and some pictures,
chiefly good copies. (A *Iioly Fa-
mily' and a small portrait of th^
rebel Lord Lovat deser>'e notice.)
The house contains a B. C. chapel.
Fine views are commanded from
Lartington ; and very picturesque
walks are formed through the long
wooded "ffills" (Pecknell and Ray-
gill — ^the latter a name found else-
where, and perhaps indicating tiie
ancient presence of the roe (raa) in
this part of Yorkshire) that here
descend to the Tees. Beyond Lar-
tington, Deepdale (see post) is
crossed by a viaduct — (an iron-
columned bridge, -with lattice girders
upon a stone foundation ; 740 ft.
long, 161 ft. high in the centre;
cost 20,687Z.)— the view from which,
down the wooded ravine, should
be especially noticed. The rly.
344
Bouie 26.~B(me8 Castle.
then passes over high ffroand to
Botjoesf the "Lavatrae*" of the Bo-
mans, bat far more famous as
representing *'the delightful village
of DothebaySf near Greta Bridge, in
Yorkshire." Bowes, before the pub-
lication of * Nicholas Nickleby,' was
the head-quarters of the Yorkshire
" cheap school *' system. Almost
every other house was an "Aca-
demy " presided over by some Whack-
ford Squeers, after the fashion which
Mr. Dickens did such excellent ser-
vice by exposing. Such was the
effect of the story, that school after
school was closed, until Bowes en-
tirely lost its " bad pre-eminence *' —
and not one now remains. More
than one house here is pointed out
as the original Dotheboys Hall ; but
Mr. Squeers, says the novelist, was
"the representative of a class, and
not of an mdividual."
Bowes consists of one gaunt, dreary
street of grey stone houses. The ch.,
mainly early Dec., with transepts,
but without aisles, was restored (al-
most rebuilt) in 1864. The font is
Norm., and above the Bctp* S. porch
is a rude sculpture of the Crucifixion,
with St. Mary and St. John. The
ch. was situated within the ruined
walls of the castle in 1325, and then
declared to be a " free chapel of the
king."
In the churchyard is the grave of
the lovers who are commemorated
in MalleVs well-known ballad * Ed-
win and Emma.' Dr. Dinsdale, au-
thor of the * Teesdale Glossary,' has
inserted in his edition of Mallet's
' Ballads and Sones ' (1857) all the
infonnation he comd collect relating
tx) the subject of the poem ; and has
erected a monument to the memory
of the lovers, on which is an extract
from the register : " Bodger Wright-
son, junr., and Martha &ilton, both
of Bowes, buried in one grave. He
died in a fever, and, upon tollmg his
passing bell, she cry'd out, * My heart
IS broke.' and iu a few hours expired.
purelv through love. March 15,
1714-15."
Boijoes Castle (a little S. of the
ch.) was built by the Earls of Rich-
mond as a defence (according to a
tradition in the family of Bowes)
against the men of Westmoreland
and Cumberland, who during the
Norman period sometimes sided with
the Scots. The date of its erection,
however, is uncertain. The " Tower
of Bowes " (Turris de Arcubus) may
perhaps have given name to the
family of the great lawyer Adam de
BowesX who married the heiress of
Streatlam, although the shield said
to have been assigned by Alan the
Black, Earl of Richmond, to the
founder of the house at Bowes, as
castellan here, must certainly be
apocryphal. The castle was built
within the Roman station — (hence
perhaps the saying —
*' When Jnlivs CaoBar wub a Mnff.
Bvwes Cdstle was a famous thing ")—
but early became niinous, and was
pronounced untenable in the 15th
year of Edw. HI. The great square
tower of the keep alone remains.
This is of uncertam date, but may.
perhaps, be late Norman. A strong
and thick cross wall divides the
space within; and the large, round-
headed windows in the second story
mark the principal apartments. With-
out and within the walls are faced
with ashlared stone. The entrance
seems to have been at the S.W. angle,
where the ruin has laid open two
passages and a hollow running down
from the battlements, perhaps for
defence. (Compare a similar squared
hollow at Scarborough. In both
eases the position (and tennination)
of this hollow close to the entrance
seems to render it probable thai
it was intended for pouring hot
water and lead on besiegers, rather
than for the drain of a garderobe.)
The mass of ruin is hardly pictur-
esque: some \\y has gathered nmnd
Boule 26.—Betf Cross.
345
it, and grass and harebells flutter
from ^e ledges within. The whole
is too shatter^ to be of great archae-
ological interest.
The dry moat of the castle seems
to have been that of the Boman sta-
tion, which extended S. toward the
Greta. Lavatrx — the name of which
is preserred in that of the Lover,
a stream which here falls into the
Greta, if indeed the stream did not
give its name to the station — lay on
the line of road which ran from
Cataractoninm (Catterick) by Greta
Bridge and Brough (Verter«) to Lu-
gubiOia (Carlisle! It was rectangu-
lar, measuring aoout 500 ft. by 400.
At the S.E. comer (without the
vallum) are some remains of baths ;
and portions of an aqueduct have
been discovered, which brought water
to them from Laver pool, 2 m. dis-
tant. Many inscriptions have been
found here — among them one, men-
tioned by Camden, in honour of the
Emperor Hadrian ; and another, re-
cording the repair of a bath for the
first Thracian Cohort (perhaps that
of which the remains still exist) by
Virios Lupus, Legate and Propraetor
of Britain in the time of Severus.
The bath had been destroyed by fire
('« balineum vi ignis exustum "). In
Camden*s time the Hadrian stone
formed part of the altar in Bowes
Church, and so continued until about
the year 1700. Six massive gold
rings (with disunited ends) were
found at Bowes in 1850. They were
probably British.
The 'Greta flows over a rocky bed
below the Roman station ; and oppo-
site is Gilmanscar (" rock-bcgirdled
Oibnanscar,*' Roheby, cant. ii.)----a fine
piece of limestone clifF. Two miles
above Bowes is God'i-hridge — a na-
tural bridge of limestone, arching
the river, and used as the ordinary
carriage-road. Below it, for some
distance, the stream is usually swal-
lowed up by the hollows so frequent
in mountain limestone.
From Bowes a good jjodestrian
may follow the course of the river,
descending through the picturesque
scenery of Brignall and Scargill to
Greta Bridge. This will be a walk
of between 9 and 10 m.
The BaUway runs from Bowes over
the wild hills of Stainmore to Tebay
Junet, Stat, where it joins the Lan-
cashire and Carlisle line. It leaves
Yorkshire at the head of Greta dale,
about 6 m. beyond Bowers. Here are
two " spitals "—" green oases in a
desert of brown moor*' — ^now farms,
but serving in old days as resting-
places for travellers over these desolate
wilds. The Boman road (the line is
marked by one or two square camps)
ran somewhat N. of the ny. A little
beyond the Yorkshire border, in
Westmoreland, is the camp of Bey
or Rere Cros9 — so named from a
rough square pillar — ^the shaft of an
ancient cross, still standing within
the intrenchment. A weauier-wom
slab, with traces of a human figure,
once inlaid with metal (?), lies near
it. The cross is said (but it is
Geoffry of Monmouth who first tells
the story) to have served as the
memorial of a battle between one
Marius and Bodric King of the Picts,
A.D. 73, in which Marius was vic-
torious, and gave his name to West-
Mare-land, on the borders of which
the monument stands. Another tra-
dition, of perhaps equal authority,
says that it was cnosen as the bound-
ary of England and Scotland in the
days of the Conqueror and King
Malcolm — hence its name *' Bey
Cross,'* the '* Cross of the Kings.**
Its wild, solitary position gives it a
certain interest; and it may well
have served as a look-out post for
such " broken men " as Sir Walter's
Allan-a-Dale : —
<* And the best of oar nobiM his bonnet
must vafi
Who at Rerecrots on Stainmore meets
Allan-a-Dale."
(c) WalJcg or shorter excursions
846
Boute 26. — Deepdale — EgghsUni Abbey.
may be made from Barnard Castle to
Deepdale and Eggleston Abbey :—
(1) Crossing the bndge below
Barnard Castle, and proceeding a
short distance up the rt. bank of the
Tees, Deepdale is entered near the
mouth of its " beck."
» —*« Last and least, bntloveUettstiU,
Romaatic Deepdale'a slender rill.
Who in that (Um-wood glen hath stray'd.
Yet loDg'd for Boslin's magic glade ?
>Vho, wandering there, hath sought to
Even for that vale so stem and strange.
Where Gartland's Grag^ fantastic rent,
Through the green oopee like spires are
sent?"
The dale is deep and narrow, <* with
waterfalls over gritstone edges in
the upper part of it, and thick woods
and abundance of the beautiful silver
fir planted among them, and a pro-
fusion of wild strawberries and
brambles." The most striking part
of the *'bcck** is close above the
viaduct, where the stream is con-
tracted between steep cliffs on the
W. side, and banks covered with cop-
pice on the other. The cliffs are
of millstone grit, and their ledges
are hung with tufts of grass, heath,
and harebells. Enormous gritstone
boulders, among which ash saplings
and ferns have rooted themselves,
lie in the bed of the stream ; and the
scene is altogether well worth seeking
by the artist. The rush of the trains
across the viaduct somewhat breaks
the solitude in which Sir Walter's
Wilfrid delighted—
•* In Deepdale'a solttode to lie.
Where all Is eUff and copse and aky;
To climb CatcasUe's dizzj peak,
Or lone Pendxagon's mound to seek.**
(" Pendragon's mound" is not in
Deepdale; it lies near the opening
of Ualdersgill beyond Cotherstone
(see the fdlowing route); but it is
mentioned in Morritt's long descrip-
tive letter to Sir Walter ('Life of
Scott,* vol. iii.), and the name no
doubt thus caught the poet's atten-
tion.) Catcastle is a massive edge
of gritstone rising on the 1. bank of
the stream. (It is . on the rt. in
ascending the dale.) A path turns
off toward it a little beyond the via-
duct, the stone for which Was brought
from it. On the summit is a rocky
seat overhung by birch and moun'-
tain-ash, conmianding a fine view of
the viaduct, of the dale below, and
of the distant country, backed by the
Durham hills. The path b^ond
leads to the open moors above Lart- |
ington, but the views from them arc
not very picturesque. I
In ascending the dale you should
search (about halfway between the
mouth of Deepdale and the viaduct)
for a huge boulder of Shap granite,
lying in the bed of the stream. It
is marked by a white board, on which
are inscribed some doggrel lines.
The boulder is one of many " erratic
blocks** conveyed by ice during the
glacial period — from the Cmnber-
land momitains toward the eastern
shores of the island. **Some of
these blocks may be traced from
their parent mountains of Shap and
Carrock across Edendale to Brongfa,
and up the slope towards the sum-
mit ot Stamnore. On the eastern
side of the slope they follow radiating
lines toward Romaldkirk, Cother-
stone, Barnard Castle, and Brignall,
and are scattered over many parts
of the vales of Cleveland and York.
the sides of Eskdale, the cliffs of
Scarborough, Flamborough, and
Holdemess.*'— Pro/. PhiUips, Near
Barnard Castle there is another
granite boulder in the Harmire beck,
not far from a white farm-house, be-
tween the stat. and the town.
(2) JflggUfion AUmf is 1 J m. from
Barnard Castle, on the rt. bank of
the Tees. A pleasant field-path
leads to the Abbey bridge (crossed
on the way to feokeby, Exc, o).
All that is known with certainty of
the early history of the house (wfiich
was for Premonstratensian canons)
Bottie 26.—Thar8g%U.
347
IB that, between the yeara 1195 and
1208, PhiUp of Poictou, Bp. of Dur-
ham, granted "to St. Mary and
St. John Baptist, and the canons
of Eggleston," with the consent of
Matilda, widow of Gilbert de hi
Leya, the nuuKxs of Egleston (in the
county of Durham) and Kilvington
near Think, which the said Gilbert
had held of the Bishop.
The ruins stand Tery picturesquely
on a rising ground above the junction
of the Thoi^g;ill beck with the Tees.
The domestic buildings have been
converted into a miU and farm-
house ; but the ch. has been allowed
to fall into ruin undisturbed. It
has ecnsisted of a nave, — aislaless, as
usual in Premonstratensian churches
—broad tnmsepts with eastern aisles,
and ehancel. The greater part is
£. £. (ciie. 1230). In the nave, the
triple lancets Teach group enclosed
by an outer arch) are raised high in
the wall on account of the cloister
which ran without. At the W. end
is a Dec. window, and there are
traces of alteration here which are
not easily intelligible. The lancet
lights of the chancel are richer,
with shafts at the angles. In the
£. wall is a broad piscina with shelf,
and another on the S. wall with a
good trefoilcd heading. The E.
window, with its 5 bu-e mullions,
is a Perp. insertion. The chancel
windows have the dog-tooth orna-
ment on the exterior. At the S.E.
angle of the nave is a staircase
tower, of later erection. There are
some tomb-slabs with crosses in
the nave, and one inscribed for a
** Bokeby Bostarde ;" but the princi-
pal monuments have been removed
(some to Rokeby, see Exc. a)
The last scene of Bokeby — in
which the execution of the Knight
of Bokeby is prevented, Wilfrid dies,
and his father is shot by Bernard. —
is laid in this ch., of which Sir
Walter's description is still accu-
rate:—
••The reverend pile Uy wild and waste.
Profaned, dishoDour'd, and defaced.
Through storied laltlces no more
In soften'd light the snnbeams pour.
Gilding the Gothic sculpture rich
Of shrine and monument and niche.
The dyil fury of the time
Made sport of sacrilegious crime ;
For dark Fanatldsm rent
Altar and screen and ornament ;
And peasant bands the tombs o'erthrew
Of Bowes, of Rokeby, and Fltx-Hngh."
— Canto vL
The glen of ThoragiU, where it
widens toward the Tees, below the
abbey, is very beautiful. Fine old
trees, mostly elms and ashes, are
scattered irregularly over the steep
broken sides of the glen, up which
the artist will find it well worth
his while to proceed — at least so far
as it retains this character. (The
scenery will recall many a pictm^e of
Oremeiek^s, who for some years made
the neighbourhood of Barnard Castle
his sketching-ground.) In its upper
part the glen narrows, and there is
a close wood walk throagh it. The
soft character of the valley, with its
rounded sandy slopes, is in sharp
contrast with the limestone clifFs
and scars of the lower Greta. The
name "Thorsgill" is perhaps, like
others in this district (see the fol-
lowing route), a trace of Danish or
Norwegian colonists, whose settle-
ments extended into this part of
Yorkshire, probably from Westmore-
land.
«* Yet better were its banks aaslgn'd
To spirits of a gentler kind :
For where the thicket groups recede,
And the ratbe ptimroae decks the mead.
The velvet grass seems carpet meet
For the light fairies' lively feet."
Bokebjft canto iv.
(A rough road, called the *^8tang"
climbs the high moors behind Bar-
nard Castle, and descends upon
Muker,%n8waledale(me,25), It
commands some wide views, but offers
no special attraction to the pedes*
trian.)
348
Boute 27. — Barnard Castle to Mtddleton.
ROUTE 27.
BARNARD CASTLE TO MIDDLETON-
INTEESDALEy HIQH FORCE.—
MICKLEFELL
Bailway (the Tees Valley branch
of the North- East^n), 5 trains daily
in i hour. The tourist should on no
account leave the **High Force**
unvisited. It is easily reached from
Middleton, where there is a tolerable
country Jtm. Close to the High
Force itself there is a better Inn,
which is sometimes closed to the
public during the shooting season.
Inouiries should be made about it
at Barnard Castle. High Force Inn
is 5 m. from Middleton, beyond
which there is no public convey-
ance.
The Bly. and high rood fnmi Bar-
nard Castle passes Lartington (Rte.
26) £xc. h% and then turns toward
the Tees tlm)ugh the village.
Cotheritcne Stat, (said to be Cuth-
beri's ioum ; and to nave been one of
the places at which the body of the
saint rested in its many wanderings),
famous for its cheese and Quakers.
Cotherstone is colonised almost en-
tirely by the Society of Friends ; and
the <« Cotherstone cheese," some of
which is hardly inferior to Stilton, is
made on all the surrounding farms.
S. of Cotherstone, the broad-topped
peiOL of Goldtbarouglh with Hs grit-
stone edges, is conspicnons. 2%ff
Baider here joins the Tees ; and on
a mound above the junction are some
fragments of Cotherstone Castle— «
keep-tower of the Fitz-Hughs--
which seems to be the " Pendragon s
lonely mound" of Bokeby. "We rode
next, if you remember, to Cother-
stone, an ancient village of the Fite-
Hughs on the Tees, whence I showed
you a rock rising over the crown of
the wood, still called Pendragon
Castie."— Jfomtt to 8eoU, BcHdar-
dale somewhat resembles Deepdale,
but is. scarcely so picturesque. It
is thickly wooded. "Balder Grange
stands on its rt. bank; and « litUe
beyond, nearer the Teea, is IFodsii
Oroft, now a farm-house, but lon^ «
school of some reputation, at which
Bichard Cobden received part <rf his
education. These names, like Thcrs-
giU, are relics of the Northmen,
who
** Gave tbeir gods the land they won.
Then, Balder ! one bleak garth wa« thine.
And one sweet brooklet's silver line \
And Woden's croft did title gain
From the stem Father of the Sialn."
— /fofeeliy, canto iv.
Nearly opposite Woden's Croft is
the base of the " plague Cross," at
which, during the infection, a mar-
ket was held for Barnard Castle.
B4yinMkirh Station (jTim, the
Crown, where a pedesbian may
sleep), the ancient centre of popula-
tion for all the upper part of Tees-
dale. The parish extends over all
the wild moorland that fonns the
N.W. of Yorkshire and down the
Tees to Startforth near Bamsid
Castle. The Church is apparently
the only one in England dedicated to
St. Bomald the hermit, of whom
little is known. It is large and fine.
£. E. and late Dec. ; and contains,
in the N. transept, the effigy of Sir
Hugh Fitz-Henry (father of the firet
Bouts 27.'— Bomaldkirk—Middletatt.
349
Lord Fitz-Hogh), who died at Ber-
wick-on-Tees, 12th March, and was
bnried at Bomaldkirk 22iid of the
same month, 1304, bj John prior of
Guisborongh.
Beyond Bomaldkirk the dale
widens, and fells rise on either side.
On the Dorham side of the Tees is
EgUtUm HaU (— Hutchison, Esq.).
After passing the Tillage of
Mtddeion Stat, the Lone is crossed
a little above its junction with the
Tees. (Lunedale, through which
the stream descends from the slopes
of MicUef ell, is not yery picturesque ;
broad and undulated in its upper
pari, and with no wood but some fir
plantations at Wemmergill. A good
road runs up it, and crosses the hill
to Brongh.) Then, crossing the
Tees, we enter
MiddUUm^n-TeesddU (Stat, and
the tenninus of the rlj.), standing al*
most entirely in the county of Dur-
ham. (Inns: Cross Keys, best ; Rose
and Crown ; Kind's HeSad.) Middle-
ton is the capital of the mining dis-
trict, which extends up the dale on
either side of the river. The ch.
contains late Norm., £. E., and early
Dec. portions, but is of no great in-
terest. The principal mining com-
pany has built laige and picturesaue
schools here for the use ot the child-
ren of their miners. The most im-
portant lead-mines in this neighbour-
hood are on the Durham side. They
are said to be more extensive than
those in Swaledale or near Pateley
Bridge. Strings of " jagger '* ponies,
as they are called, convey the lead
from the mines to Middleton and the
rlys. Each pony carries a weight of
200 lbs., strung on a kind of pack-
saddle. There is a large ironstone
bed in Upper Teeedale, the working
of which is in progress, and will not
improve the picturesque character of
the district
(If the Inn at the High Force be
open, the tourist will do well to pro-
ceed thither. He will find it the
most convenient station not only for
the High Force itself but for Caldron
Snout, and for the ascent of Mickle-
fell. A conveyance may, however,
be hired at Middleton ; and by start-
ing early, the whole of this expedition
may be accomplished from that place
in a long summer's day. If ponies
are desir^ for the ascent of Mickle-
fell, the landl(Md at High Force or
at Landon Inn (see post) should be
written to beforehand.)
The drive from Middleton to High
Force (on the Durham side) is plea-
sant. This upper part of the dale
is pastoral, with much wood near
Middleton, which becomes rarer as we
ascend : the stc^p sides of Harter Fell
and Holwick YeU rise ^ypnd the
meadows, 1. of the road. The Tees,
in this part of its course, eats away
the low banks, and has worn more
than one new diannel for itself. One
or two flat holms now on the York-
shire side are in the county of Dur-
ham, marking the changes of the river.
Near the hamlet of Newbiggin a
road descends to Winch Bridge^, over
the Tees, a small suspension-bridge,
built originally for the use of miners,
and said to be one of the earliest of
its sort in England. It is thrown
across a narrow chasm about 60 ft
deep, above which the river descends
in small waterfalls, making a pic-
turesque scene. Primula farinosa is
to be found here in its season. (Hol-
wick Scars may be visited from here —
a range of "smoke-grey basaltic
crags," crowned by the wide grassy
plateau of the fell. The parsley fern
grows in great luxuriance among
tiiem; and the adjoining hiU-sides
are covered with juniper.)
The High Force Inn stands by the
roadside immediately opposite the
waterfall, seen in the dirtance finely
backed by steep feUs, and at the
end of a long rocky ravine, which
360
BoftU 27.— High Force.
has been planted with spruce and
silver firs. Walks have been cut
through the wood, rendering the ap-
proach to the fall easy, and so well
managed, that after the first distant
view up the ravine the " force " is
hardly seen until you are close to it.
The scene is wonderfully grand. The
Tees descends 69 ft. " over greenstone
resting on shale and limestone, the
shale prismatized by the heat of the
trap, but the limestone not bleached
as that above the trap is." A single
spire of rock rises in the midst of the
precipice over which the force flings
itself, dividing the great mass of water
when the river is at all swollen.
The lower layers of the rock are
perfectly blackened, and miniature
cavems'are worn in the base of the
cliff, rt. The water falls into a deep
black pool, whitened with foam ; and
the 1. bank of the river, strewed for
some way with broken rock, opens
into a folding of the hill, down which
a ruin of st^y fragments has fallen.
Green tufts of fern, grasses, and heath
wave from the ledges ; and on the rt.
side of the cliff, immediately above
the fall, is a cluster of yew-trees.
The water, stained with moss, de-
scends in dark brown masses between
the foam. The colouring of the whole
scene is exquisite ; and it may safelv
be said that no waterfall in the north
of England (and few even in Scot-
land) is grander or more impressive
than the High Force. Many hours
may well be spent in and about the
ravine.
Ponies may be hired at the High
Force Inn for proceeding to CkUdron
Snout and ascending MiddefeU.
About 3 m. farther on the road is
Landon Inih a small wayside house,
the landlord of which will procure
ponies if written to beforehand. (The
ascent is nearer from Landon Lm, to
which you can drive from High
Force.) ' This little Inn (before reach-
ing which a small modem £. E. ch. is
passed at Foreri Kirk, marking a
civilisation in the solitude) stands at
the junction of Yorkshire, Westmore-
land and Durham. A good pedes-
trian may walk from it to &e waterf ail
of Caldron Snout, thence ascend
Micklefell, and return to the iim in
6 or 7 hrs., but the time will be
shortened by hiring a pony. To
reach the Caldron Snout from Landoo
Inn you should make for the farm-
house of Widdyfell, just at the point
where the Tees turns sharply round
Cronkley Scars, a very fine mass of
rock from 100 to 200 ft. hieh, forming
the "N.E. comer of Yorkshire.''
About 2 m. of veiy rough no-road
will then bring you to Caldron Snoat.
The walk, whether over the bill or
following the river, is difficult, since
there is much mossy ground, and on
the hill deep heather, with peat
haggs. " It is a dreigh (lonely) road
over the fells," say the natives ; but
the lover of wild scenery, almost Nor-
wegian in its savage loneliness, will
not regret his scramble.
On Cranldey FeiU, above Cronklej
Scars, "the curious sugar limestone
occurs. There are several 8(»ts,
from the large, ciystal-like barley-
sugar to the finest brown and white.
It appears a stone, cropping out of
the wort, dry grass, but crumbles
away to fine ciystaUine particles on
pressure. Geologists explain that
this condition has been caiused by the
pushing upward heated whinatone
into close contact with the lime-
stone."—TT. 8, BoMka,
Grotikley Scars exhibit the greatest
development of a mass of basaltic
rock, known locally as " whin-sill.'*
which extends from near Broagh in
Westmoreland into the npper parts
of Teesdale, Weardale, and Tynedale,
and is continued thence with some
interruptions as far as the Northun-
brian coast near Alnwick. At Oranklev
Scars it is frcHn 200 to 800 ft. thick.
This neighbourhood is famous for its
botanical rarities, since, in commoii
BotUe 27. — CronJcley Scars.
361
with all Upper Teesdale, it furnishes
several montane plants, "which, as
growing there, are separated more or
less conspicuously from the other lo-
calities in which they occur
Pclygala augtriaca, a species diffused
upon the Continent from Scandinavia
southward to Italy and Transylvania,
is not known elsewhere in Britain."
(It is found near the White Force, a
waterfall on the Merrigall heck,
falling into the Tees a little ahove
Cronkley Scars.) *' Potentilla fruti-
COM and Gentiana vema, both of
which are abundant in Teesdale, and
both widely diffused upon the Con-
tinent, grow in the W, of Ireland, and
sparingly in the Lake district, but are
not known elsewhere in Britain.
BarUia Alpina^ (found at Cronkley
Scars, and near the High Force)
" grows in Craven and the Lake dis-
tricts and from thence leaps to the East
Highlands. Elyra caricina " (found
at Cronkley Scars) " is like the Bait-
sia, except that it is not known in
Craven. Myoiotis alpe8irut{* (found
at the eastern extremity of the Mickle-
f ell ridge) " and Tofiddia valwtrU "
(on the fell between the White Force
and Caldron Snout) "from Teesdale
leap to Perthshire; and HieroGium
irieum'' (Cronkley Scars and neigh-
bourhood) "and Carex capiUarW
(Cronkley Scars and neighbourhood)
" are also not known elsewhere in
England, and leap from Teesdale to
the hills of Dumfriesshire."—/. G.
Baker: All these plants appear to be
part of a Scandinavian flora, " com-
municated to Britain before the
glacial period, and now preserved on
certain elevated tracts, which, during
that period, stood above the water." —
rhillips.
A range of high basaltic scars
called Falcon Cli-nts borders the Tees
for some distance on its 1. bank, be-
tween Cronkley and Caldron Snout.
Here the river —
•• Where Tees In tamuU leaves his sonroe,
Thsnderimc o'er Caldrcm and High Force "
Moketnf—
descends in broken rapids through
a chaos of black basaltic rocks, which
i'ut out in patches between the
leather above the fall. A golden
lichen colours them finely; and the
whole scene, totally different in its
features from the High Force, is
wild and savage. The fall (or long
rapid) is 200 ft. high ; and " nowhere
else m England have we so deep a
fall upon so large a stream." — J. G. B,
The name " snout " probably refers to
the long narrow channel through
which the stream here suddemy
pours, after sleeping, as it does, for a
considerable distance above it in a
long lake-like expansion called the
" Weil " (well— so the " w«lls " often
mentioned in old ballads — deep,
smooth eddies, the favourite haunts
of mermaids : —
**0 pTomise me now. Clerk CoMll,
Or it will cost ye muckle strife.
Ride never by the wells of Slane,
If ye wad live and brook your life."
CUrkCoMO), \
A narrow plank bridge (1489 ft. above
the sea) crosses the river over the
waterfall. A little below Caldron
Snout the Maze heck joins the Tees
The Tees itself rises on the slope of
Crossfell in Cumberland, and for 5 m.
forms the boundary between West-
moreland and Durham. From Cald-
ron Snout it divides Yorkshire and
Durham. The Maze beck descends
from Dufton Fell inWestmoreland, and
divides, in the lower part of its course,
Westmoreland and Yorkshire.
There is a small sheep farm at
Birkdaie (on the Westmoreland side),
where a guide may perhaps be pro-
cured either to High Cup Nick (a
curious boat-shaped chasm in the
hiUs about 3 m. distant in Westmore-
land; the view is superb; see the
Handbook of WedmordaTul) or to the
top of MickUfelL This is the great
mass of moorland between the Tees
and the Lune, having at its summit a
long ridge of limestone, with patches
of millstone grit. The western end
852
Boute 28. — London to Leeds.
of the ridge is 2580 ft. above the sea,
and is the highest groimd in York-
shire. It was one of the points for
the Ordnance Survey, and the sappers
have left their pile of stones on the
summit. The form of the hill^steep
toward the S.E., and gradually rising
from the N.W. — renders it easily
climbed from Caldron Snout, and a
pony can well get to the top. The
view on a clear day will amply repay
the labour of ascent. " On the N.W.
there is a sudden fall in the direction
of Maze Beck, and across a broad
hollow may be seen a mass of hills in
which the three peaks of Crossfcll,
Dunfell,and Scoredale Head, are con-
spicuous, and the head of High Cup
Nick and the far-off peaks of the
Lake country looming dimly on the
edge of the horizon. Toward the
N. you look down on Teesdale. Bast-
ward, far over Barnard Castle and
Richmond to the distant Hambleton
hills. ** And on the S. over Lunedale
and Balderdale, and the Stainmore
depression, are the innumerable un-
dulated peaks which cluster round
tiie upper part of Swaledale and Yore-
dale, and beyond them the more
abrupt outlines of Whernside and
Ingleborough, and Pennyghent." —
J, G. Baker,
(An adventurous pedestrian may
follow BCr. White's ('A Month in
Yorkshire,* ch. xviii.) example, and
descend from Micklefell upon the
road leading across from Mickleton
to Brough. The walk will be a long
one, however, and should on no ac-
count be attempted unless the weather
is entirely favourable. A mist among
tiiese trackless hills may bring un-
pleasant consequences, to say the
least.)
ROUTE 28.
LONDON TO LEEDS: (1) BT DON-
CASTER AND WAKEFIELD; (2) KY
PONTEFRACT AND WAKEFIELD ; (3)
BY PONTEFRACT AND CASTLEFORD.
1. By DoHcatter and Wakefidth —
This is the main line of the Great
Northern Rlv. By it 6 through
trains run daily from London (King's
Cross Stat.) to Leeds. Ordinary
trains perform the distance in about
5 hrs. 20 min. ; the Express in about
4 hrs. This (or the N. Midland line
— see Rtes. 1 a and 41) is the best
route for those who wish to reach
Leeds with as little delay as possible.
For the line from London to
Doncatter Junct. Stat, see Rte. 1.
From Doncaster the rly. crosses a
pleasant, rather picturesque and
wooded country, by Adwick S. Eni-
sall, Hemsworth, and Nostell Stats.,
to Wakefield. For Adw%ck4e-8trttt
(where is a rather interesting ch.) see
Rte. 1, as well as for JSa'snpoU^ which
the rly. skirts, beyond it. At Sonik
EmsaU there is nothing.
HeiMKforth Stat. Here the ch.
was rebuilt. 1867. Robert Holgate,
Abp. of York (1544— deprived on the
accession of Mary), founded here a
Bouie 28.'^PontefracL
353
grammar-school and a hospital, both
of which have been rebuilt — the
grammar-school (near the db.) aboat
1865, the new hospital, 1 m. S.W., in
1860. The latter IS Elizabethan, with
a chapel in the centre, 12 houses on
one side and 10 on the other. The
20 inmates receive each 402. a year,
besides a house. The master (with a
separate house) has 6002. The old
hospital buildings, erected in 1770,
remain near the church.
Nostdl Stat. The Priory (Ch.
Winn, Esq.) contains a fine collection
of pictures, and the ch. is interesting,
see Bte. 38.
8a$idal Stat. (Rte. 38). The train
then speedily reaches WakeJUld Junct.
Stat., see Bte. 38 ; as well as for the
line thence to Leeds.
2. By Pontefract and Wakefield,—
This and the following line, from
Pontefnu;t bj Castleford, are by no
means the most direct route from
London to Leeds. They pass, how-
ever, places of great interest; and
the tonriat who is not pressed for
time may very well take either of
them, stepping if he chooses at Pon-
tefract, where there is good hotel
accommodation. For the line from
London toKnotUngley Junction, where
the main line is left, see Btes. 1
and 2.
At Knottingley the branch rly.
tnms W. Just before reaching the
Pontefract Stat, it passes, rt., the un-
pietureeque ruins of *<New Hall,*'
an Elizabethan house, once the resi-
dence of Talbots and Pierrepoints.
The Talbot supporters, 2 '' talbots,"
may be seen over an arch.
Pontefract, 10 min. walk from stat.,
often, but not on the spot, called
Pomfret— (Inns : Oreen Dragon ; Ele-
phant : Bel Lion : Pop. of the town
in 1881, 8798. Jtly, Stations: 1. at
ITorkshire.']
Pontefract (Monkhill); 2. atTanshelf,
for Lancashire and Yorkshire Bly. from
Wakefield to Gkx>le ; 3. at Baghill, on
ily. from Swinton to Knottingley.
The rocky height covered with trees,
which rises 1. near the stat., is the site
of the Castle) — ^is a place of little
importance at present, but one which
is closely associated with some of the
greatest events in English history.
"I love Pomfret," wrote Swift;
" why ? It is in all our histories.**
The town lies a little to the rt of the
Great North Boad, which follows
the line of the Boman " WaUing
Street,'' and about 3 m. N.W. crosses
the Aire at Castleford — ^the Legio-
lium of the 5th and 8th Antomne
Itinera. From the 11th to the 17th
cent Pontefract Castle was the
great stronghold of S. Yorkshire,
commanding the passes of the Aire
nearly as effeetuaJly as the Boman
station had done, close on the river ;
whilst its position gave it infinitely
greater strength as a medisBval for-
tress. It was partly owing to the
importance of its site, and partly to
the power of the great barons who
at different times were lords of the
Honour, that Pontefract Castle plays
so conspicuous a part **in all our
histories."
The remains of the Cattle, and of
AU 8aint» Church below it, are the
sole points of interest in Pontefract,
and the history of. the place gathera
entirely about the Castle. The old
name of the place, as luppears from
Norman charters, was Kurkby, and
it was included in the manor of
Tateshall or Tanshelf, which before
the Conquest belonged to the King,
and was, no doubt, the ^'Taddenes
scylf,'* where, in 947, Kinf Eadred
received the fealty of Abp. Wulfstan
and the Northumbrian "Witan."
The Witan probably met on the site
of the later castle, in part an arti-
ficial hill, on which, at the time of
the Conquest, stood the house of
the English lord, AUric. In the
2a
854
Bauie 2S.—Pantefraci.
winter of 1069, William advanced to
York for his final conquest of . the
North, and was delayed for 3 weeks
at Castleford, on the Aire, the river
beinf then impassable by boats or
by fording (Fireeman, iv. p. 285).
At this time ne probably " found the
means of inspecting so strong a
place as the English house at Sjrkby,
and when he granted the district to
nbert de Lacy it may reasonably be
supposed that he followed his usual
practice of directing a castle to be
built."— O. T. C. "Pontefract"
then acquired its present name—
whether from a broken bridge over
the Aire at Castleford, as Mr. Free-
man suggests, the bridge having
been broken to prevent the Con-
queror's passage — from a wooden
bridge which is said to have given
way as St. William of York passed
over it, when the multitudes who
thronged it were saved by his prayers
(but this is only a repetition of the
York story, see Bte. \)—<x from a
" Poumfreite ** in Normandy, is un-
certain. The castle at any rate was
founded by Ilbert de Lacy, to whom
William 1. had made large grants of
land in this part of York^ire (about
150 numors, chiefly in the W. Biding
— they fill 7 pages of Domesday
book^ ; and the son of Ilbert is called
<* Robert of Pontefract " by Orderieus
Vitalis (1. xi. c. 1). cure. 1102— the
first instance of the occurrence of the
name. (It should be remarked that
Ailric, the English lord, held his
lands, but much reduced, under the
new Norman possessor, — as did his
son and grandson, Sweine and Adam,
the fonner of whom gave a church
to the monks of St. John's at Ponte-
fract, and the latter founded Bretton
Priory (Bte. 40). The Yorkshire
lands were erected into an Honour,
of which Pontefract became the
chief seat.) With one or two inter-
missions, when the Laceys were tem-
porarily banished from the realm,
that great family held Pontefract
until it became extinct in the male
line in 1810; and the castle and
honour were then transferred to the
nephew of Edw. I., Thomas Plan-
tagenet. Earl of Lancaster, who had
married Alicia, heiress of Henry de
Lacy. On the death of this great
earl, his estates were confiscated;
but they were afterwards restored to
his heirs by a special Act of Parlia-
ment, and passed to John of Grannt,
created Duke of Lancaster. On the
duke's death, Pontefract would hare
descended to his son, Henry of
Bolingbroke; but Bichaid IL seised
the castle and estates, and Hearr
only regained them as Henry Fv .
of England, when the d^Mxed
Bichard was sent here as a prisoner.
From that time the castle remained
in the hands of the Crown, until,
after undergoing three sieges during
the Civil War, it was finally dis-
mantled and " slighted " by order of
the Parliunent.
No important historical event oc-
curred at rontefract until the hehead-
ing of ThomoB of Lancatter here in
1322. This "mighty lord," the
grandson of Hen. III., and Earl at
once of Lancaster, Lincoln, Leicester,
Salisbury, and Derby, supported a
magnificent household at Pontefract.
As leader of the confederate barons
against Edw. n. he commanded the
forces which besieged Seaifaoroogh
Castle, in which Gaveston had taken
refuge; and on its surrender (May
17, 1312) conveyed him to Warwick.
Gaveston was beheaded (June 19)
on Blacklow Hill near Warwick, in
the presence of Lancaster, and on
ground within his jurisdiction. This
was the offence which the king never
forgave. But there was an apparent
reconciliation before, in 1321, Lan-
caster joined the Earl of Hereford in
that attack on the Spencers, the new
favourites of the king, which led to
the battle of Boroughbridge (March
16, 1322: see Bte. 19). At Boitmgh-
bridge, Lancaster was taken, and
was carried down the Onse to York,
and thence to his castle of Ponte-
Boute 28.— PotUefract.
fract. Here he was brought before
Edw. II. and the barons of the royal
army, and was condemned to suner
as a traitor — ^the more barbarous por-
tions of the sentence being remitted
on account of his noble birth. He
was led at once (June 19) to execu-
tion, on a grey pony without a
bridle ; and £e crowd, as he passed
along, flung mud at him, with cries
of ** Sing Arthur " — ^the name which
he was said to have assumed in cor-
respondence with the Scots. '* King
of heaven ! " he exclaimed, ^* grant
me mercy, for the king of earth hath
forsaken me." When they stopped
on a hill outside the town, the Earl
knelt, facing the east; but he was
ordered to turn northward, toward
bis friends the Scots, ^nd in that
position he was beheaded.
Lancaster, like Simon de Montfort,
had been the great supporter of the
popular cause against the exactions
of the Crown and its officers; and,
as in the case of Simon, the reverence
for him did not cease with his life.
He was buried in the Cluniac Priory
at Pontefract, on the rt. of the high
altar. Miracles were wrought at
his tomb ; " and for resort of people
to the Monte, where Thomas was
behedded, Bauldok the Chauncelar
caused xiiii C^ascoynes, welle armid,
to watche the hille a certen tyme." —
(Leland, Collect, ii. 466.) The king,
it is ^so said, " lete close the church
dares of Pountfret of the Prioree, for
no man shall come therein to the
body for to offeren." In spite of
these precautions the miracles, it was
averred, continued; and within 5
weeks after the accession of Edw.
III., a mission was sent to the Pope
VDoplormg the usual investigation
preparatory to canonization, and alms
were collected throughout England
for building a chapel on the hUl of
the beheading. Other embassies were
sent to Borne at different times, and
in 1390 (13th of Bich. U,) Walsing-
ham records the actual canonization
of *' Sanctus Thomas de Lancastria.'*
655
(Capgrave places it in 1380.) His
name does not occur, however, in any
calendar, or in any of the Salisbury
Service Books; and the question of
the canonization of this great earl
calls for further examination.
The hill on which the Earl was
beheaded is the high ground above
the castle, and is still known as St.
Thomas's Hill; no traces remain of
a chapel there. The Cluniac Priory
has also disappeared: but in 1828,
in the " Prionr Field," not far from
St. Thqmasis HiU, ^ stone coffin was
found, and conveyed to the grounds of
Frystone Hall, the residence of Lord
Houghton. It has been suggested
that the coffin may have been tliat of
the Earl, removed from the priory at
the Beformation. It was opened in
1863, and the bones which it contains
were seen to be of unusually large
proportions.
The death of Rich. II. is the next
great event that occurred here. In
the Parliament of October, 1399. it
was decreed that the deposed king
should be perpetually imprisoned in
a place ^^unfrequented by any con-
course of people." He was first
sent to Leeds, then to Pickering
Castle (like Pontefract, one of the
hereditary possessions of the Dukes
of Lancaster), and then to Knares-
borough; but was soon removed
thence to Pontrefact. At the end of
January, 1399-1400, his death was
announced. The famous scene in
Shakespeare Q Bichard II.,* act v. sc.
5) has given such a reality to the
assertion that the kmg was murdered
by the hand of Sir Piers of Exton —
** That band shall bum In never^aenching
fire
That staggers thus my peraoQ. Exton, thy
fleroe hand
Hath with the king's blood sUln'd the
king's own land "—
that it is hard to disbelieve it ; yet
Abp. Scrope, who was near at hand,
and had probably good means of
ascertaining the truth, declared that,
2a2
856
Boute 2B.—P(mtefraeL
after lingering 15 days, Bichard died
of starvation — ^^ the basest death anj
one in England had ever under-
gone.** This is the version adopted
bv Gray —
" riofe by th« regal clulr
Fell Tblnt and Famine mowI
A baleflil smile npon their baffled guest"
His body was brought to London and
publicly exhibited. There can be
little doubt that he really died at
Pontefract, although the story of
his escape into Scotland has found
supporters (see Tytlar, * Hist, of Scot-
land/ vol. ii.). The Exton story
first appears in the * Chronicque de la
Traison et Mort de Richart,' edited
by Benj. Williams for the Eng. Hist.
Soc. in 1846.
Henry IV. was often at Pontefract
after Richard's death; and it was
here that Ab^. Scrope, having joined
the insurrection of the Percys, was
brought, lUfter he had been induced
by a stratagem to disband his forces,
before Henry himself, who carried
him in his train to his own palace at
Bishopth(n:pe, where he was tried and
beheaded. (See Bte. 1.) After the
battle of Agincourt, the Dukes of
Bourbon and of Orleans, who were
there taken prisoners, were sent to
Pontefract Castle, where they re-
mained for many years. Here too
the voung King of Scotland, James
I., wiio had been captured off Flam-
borough in 1405 (see Flam. Head,
Rte. IS\ was for some time their
companion. After the battle of
Wakefield, the Earl of Salisbury, Sir
Ralph Stanley, and many other
Yorxist prisoners were sent by Queen
Margaret's orders to Pontefract, be-
headed there, and their heads sent to
be fixed on the " bars ** of York. In
1483, Earl Rivers, Sir Richard Gray,
and Sir Thomas Vaughan " lajr shorter
by the head " at Pontefract, in order
to clear the way for the accession of
Richard m.—
M 0 Pomf let, Pomfret I 0 thon bloody prison,
Faul and ominous to noble peen I
Within tho guilty cloBure of tby walls
Richard the 8eoond here waa hack'd to
dnith;
And for more alander to thy dismal seat
We vIve to thee our goiltlefa blood to
drink."— iiicA. ///. act ill. sc. 3.
(Rivers, who was one of the most
accomplished men of his age, and
the first English patron of Caxton.
composed, according to Rouse, ** ouuni
balet in Anglicis during his con-
finement here.)
During the Pilgrimage of Grace
(1536), Pontefract was besieged by
the insurgents under Aske, and the
castle was surrendered to them by
Xiord Barcy and the Abp. of Yor£.
It sustained «S memorable sieges
during the civil war. In the De-
cember following the battle of Mars-
ton Moor (1644), Sir Thomas Fairfax
endeavoured to reduce it; and after
an incessant cannonade ifor 3 days,
one of its 7 towers was knocked
down, Jan. 19th, 1645, and in its
fall carried away part of the wall.
The breach, however, was stoutly
defended by Colonel Lowther, the
governor, so that the enemy, despair-
ing of being able to enter by it, had
recourse to mines. The besieged
countermined, sinking more than
100 shafts within the walls. When*
at last, the garrison had been ex-
tremely diminished by slaughter, and
weakened by dearth of provisions,
the place was relieved by Sir Marma-
duke Langdale, assisted by a sortie
of the garrison ; and the Parliamen-
tarians retired in disorder. This
stronghold was not long allowed to
remain unmolested, for m March of
the same year (1645) it was again
beset by the republican army, and
after a siege of 3 months was com-
Eelled to surrender, though upon
onourable terms
Pomfret Castle was regained for
King Charles by the stratagem r.f
Colonel Morris, a man of doubtful
principle, who had served both sides,
but at the time pretending to be a
Roundhead had gained the coofi-
SotOe 2S.—P<mieftwL
357
dence of the governor. In June, 1 648,
having heard that Colonel Cotterel
expected a supply of bedding, fur-
niture, and provisions, Morris loaded
a number of waggons with these
articles, and drove them into the
castle, escorted by himself and nine
other officers disguised as peasants,
but ha^'ing arms concealed beneath
their clothes. The drawbridge was
at once lowered to admit them and
their cargo. A pretext was found to
send some of the soldiers into the
town with money to buy ale; the
rest of the guard was then mastered,
jMXsession was obtained of the gate,
and the main body of the confederates
posted outside was admitted. Hie
governor was secured after a desper-
ate resistance ; the garrison, who did
not exceed 100, were overpowered,
and the capture of the fortress se-
cured by tne arrival of a reinforce-
ment from the Royal army, swelling
the garrison to 30 horse and 500 foot
In Oct. 1648, they were again
enclosed by a besieging army, which
obtained little success until the ar-
rival of Cromwell himself; but he,
after a month, deputed the command
to General Lambert, having first
taken those energetic measures which
led to its ultimate capture, and hav-
ing addressed the following forcible
letter to the Council in London : —
^ My Lords, — The castle hath been
viauailed witli 220 or 240 fat cattle
within these three weeks ; and they
have also gotten in, as I am credibly
informed, salt enough for them and
more: so that I apprehend they are
victualled for a twelvemonth. The
men within are resolved to endure to
the utmost extremity, expecting no
mercy, as indeed they deserve none.
The place is very well known to be
one of the strongest inland garrisons
in the kingdom, well watered, situated
upon a rock in every part of it, and
therefore difficult to mine. The walls
very thick and high, with strong
towers, and, if battered, very difficult
of access, by reason of the depth and
steepness of the graft. The county is
exceedingly impoverished, not able
to bear free-quarter, nor well able to
furnish provisions, if we had moneys.
The woik is like to be long, if mate-
rials be not furnished answerable. I
therefore think it mv duty to repre-
sent unto you as followeth, viz.; —
That moneys be provided for 3 com-
plete regiments of foot and 2 of horse ;
and, indeed, that money be provided
for all contingencies which are in
view, too many to enumerate. That
500 barrels of powder and 6 good
battering-guns, with 300 shot to each
gun, be speedily sent down to Hull ;
we desire none may be sent less than
demy-cannons. We desire also, some
match and bullet ; and, if it may be,
we should be glad that 2 or 3 of the
biggest mortar-pieces, with shells,
may likewise be sent. And, altho
the desires of such proportions may
seem costly, yet I hope you will judge
it good thrift ; especially if you coa-
sider that this place hath cost the
kingdom some hundred thousands of
pounds already, and, for aught I
know, it may cost you one more, if it
be trifled withal ; besides the dis-
honour of it, and what other danger
may be emergent by its being in such
hands."— Oar/y?<!*« * Cromwell,* i. p.
330. " Had these * propositions * been
acted upon in full,'* says Carlyle,
**that business might have ended
sooner."
In the interval since its capture
the Boyal cause had grown desper-
ate ; no army remain^ to the king
to reinforce the garrison, and, except
Pontefract, the only strong place
in England which held out was
Scarborough. Notwithstanding all
this, and the vigour and skill with
which Lambert pressed the siege, the
garrison resisted bravely all attacks.
They even heard undismayed of the
death of Charles on the scaffold ; and
while the rest of the country was
mute, they were the first to proclaim
his son and successor, Charles II ,
making at the same time a rigorous
358
Boute 2S.—Panie/ract : Castte.
sally. It was not until the end of six
months, when their numbers were
reduced, by the losses they had suf-
fered, from 500 to 100 men, that they
capitulated. Six persons were ex-
cepted from mercy, including Morris
and 4 of his confederates in the
seizure of the castle. Of these, 2,
Morris and Blackburn, cut their
way through the enemy in a sortie.
They were taken, however, a few
days after, near the coast of Lanca-
shire, while seeking for a vessel to
escape beyond sea, and tried and exe-
cuted at York. The remaining 4
concealed themselves, on the surren-
der of the castle, among its ruins,
and two of them lived to see the
Bestoration.
The present dilapidated state of
TJie Castle was onving to the thorough
demolition ordered by the Parlia-
ment immediately after its surrender ;
but the effects of the artillery on its
walls during 3 destructive sieges,
had prepaid the way for this.
Evelyn records in his journey through
Pomfret, 1654, that " the castle was
now demolishing by the rebels; it
stands on a mount, and makes a
goodly show at a distance." It can
hardly be said to do so now, though
the scene of so many important
events cannot be visited without un-
usual interest.
Architecturally, the remains of
Pontefract Castle are of little value,
but for the military antiquary few
places have more attraction. The
site, on an elevated rock, command-
ing all the country about it, is pre-
cisely such as best suited a great
Norman stronghold, but, as a natural
** strength,'' it was, as we have seen,
appropriated by the Saxons. There,
Aunc, or his ancestors, threw up a
mound at the S.£. angle, command-
ing the natural entrance just E. of
it. On this the Normans built a
small sheU keep ; and the summit of
the rock, about 7 acres, was enclosed
by a curtain-wall, with towers at
equal distances. A deep fosse en-
circled the whole rock. This was
the original Norman arrangement ;
and the plan was retained in all the
later constructions. There are three
wards, N., S., and middle. There
is a curious rock staircase in the
middle ward, in front of what is
called the "King's seat." This is
mainly Norman; but the present
was not the original entrance — ^that
was by a turnpike stair on the rt.
The 2 great Round Totcen at the
base of the keep deserve special at-
tention. The Normans first scarpeil
the base, to the south, into the form
of round towers, and faced thcin
with masonry, since renewed; s«>
that, although they look like towers
in their lower portion, they are
really solid bastions, llie keep is
reached by a long flight of steps, and
cells were cut in the rock, which
have been altered, but still show
traces of Norman work. The chapel
at the N.E. angle retains (on the
W. side, below the keep) some por-
tions of Norman masonry. Broui
the lesser tower of the keep a nar-
row; staircase leads down to a sally-
port ; and about halfway down, other
stairs branch ofif, leading on one side
to (possibly) a well, and on the other
to a dungeon barely 6 ft. square.
The most unusual construction
here, however, is a long subterra-
nean passage on the N. side of the
castle, which "descends for several
feet by steps in a direct line : at the
bottom it terminates in three or four
small chambers, hollowed out of the
solid rock. Some portion of it is
arched over T^ith ashlars, and in one
part the peculiar heading, which
may be termed Edwardian shoulder-
ing, is observable. Looking at these
and some minor features in connec-
tion with them, the whole work
seems to have been done in the reign
of Edward II., and most likely by
Thomas Earl of Lancaster. These
subterranean passages are sufficiently
curious in themselves; 2 others of
a similar kind exist in Pontefract,
Sauie 28.— Poniefrad.
369
In 1888 the fonndatioiiB of ihe
Chapel were cleared out and 7 bodies
found, probably of those who fell in
the siege.
Close to the new Dispensaiy in
Southgate is a winding staircase, mIow
the B^eet, cut with great care; at
the bottom of 90 steps it ends with a
weU. Close by^ is a subterranean
chantry for a hermit priest; the
altar still remains ; it scarcely seems
large enough for the anchorite to have
made it his constant residence, and
therefore he must have frequently
descended into this crypt to perform
his devotions.
A room in the Bed Tower is
r' ted out as that in which Bich.
was confined; and in the so-
called Swillington Tower, Thomas
of Lancaster is said to have been
immured before his death.
The area of the castle, once planted
with liqworUe — literally fulfilling
the old line — "Nunc glycerhiza
crescit ubi castellum fuit," has been
taken by the Corporation for public
Pleagure OrowndB.
Below the castle is AU Saint's
Chwrh — the old church of Ponte-
fract — which was ruined during the
siege of the castle by Cromwell.
(The S. transept alone was pre-
served as a burial-place.) There
are scanty remains of nave, choir,
and aisles; and in 1837 the central
tower and transepts were repaired,
and fitted for divine worship. A con-
siderable sum was expended in 1866
in "restoring" this part of the ch.,
and in strengthening and support-
ing the mins.^ The ch. seems to
have been Early Dec. with Perp. in-
sertions ; but the stone of the ruined
portions has crumbled so far that
they possess little interest. The
tower (Perp.) is square and lofty,
with an octagonal turret rising frdm
it. It contains a double geometrical
staircase worth notice.
The Ch. of 8t, Giles (in the town)
with square tower, upper part octa-
fonal and surmounted by a crown of
ying buttresses bearing a vase, re-
tains many mediaeval features.
The town of Pontefroct is clean,
with broad streets, and a very fine
market, the front of which was ,be-
gun in 1859. On it the bull's head,
the device of the town, is conspicu-
ous; and over the entrance is the
ancient shield of the corporation, the
castle gate, with the letters P.P.
A large agricultural market, com
and cattle, is held on Saturday.
Pontefract is famous for its Liquw-
ice, which is grown largely in the
neighbourhood. Liquorice (the word
is tonned from the Greek "glycyr-
rhiza" = sweet root), a native of
southern Burope and of the Levant,
was first cultivated in England in the
reign of Elizabeth (Stotoe), and
Pontefract speedily became the head-
quarters of the manufactm-e. The
plant, very graceful, with feathery
leaves, is planted in ridges, and does
not come to perfection until the
fourth year. The sandy soil suits it,
and the fibrous roots are sometimes
10 or 12 ft. deep. These are dug in
autumn, and pounded in the follow-
ing winter. The juice thus extracted
is boiled down and mixed with gum-
arabic and other ingredients, and
formed into laree cakes. Portions of
these are rolled by hand till they
take the form of lozenges, and then
stamped one by one with the well-
known Pontefract Gate. The trade
is slowly decaying, since Spanish
liquorice is now imported free oi duty.
Extensive Barracks, being the
depdt of the 7th and 8th Brigades of
the Northern District, were erected
1878.
Abp. Bramhall, Primate of Ireland,
died 1663, was bom at Pontefract.
[Nostell Priory and Walton Hall
(see Bte. 88) may be visited from
rontefract. Both are within a short
360
Bouie 28. — CastUford — Meihley.
distance of the Crofton Stat, oa the
line to Wakefield. (See post)
At AcktBorih, 2 m. S. of Pontefract,
on high ground, commanding very
wide views, is a large and celebrated
school belonging to the Society of
Friends. It was founded in 1778,
by Dr. John Fothergill, an eminent
physician, and himself a *< Friend"
(see his Life in Hartley Coleridge's
* Northern Worthies '). Among those
educated here are Jeremiah Wiffin
(the trajislator of Tasso and of Gar-
cilasso de la Vega), Bernard Barton,
and Wm. Howitt. The Flounders
Institute here was established in 1848
by Benjamin Flounders, of Tarm, for
training young men to be teachers in
the Society of Friends. Ackworth
Ch., £arly Dec. throughout, has been
completely ** restored ;" the windows
contain much stained glass hjWaUes.
On the font is the inscription ^* Bap-
tisterium bill phanaticorum dirutmn
denuo erectum 1663." Ackworth
Park (William Peel, Esq*) was for
some years the residence of Mr. Gully,
the well-known ex-prize-fighter, who
long represented Pontefract in Par-
liament Mr. Gully, who died in
March, 1863, was greatly liked and
respected both on uie tcurf and as a
country gentleman.]
From Pontefract the rly. to Wake-
field proceeds through some cuttings
in the coal formation (which joins the
magnesian limestone at Pontefract) to
TaMhelf Stat and
Feaiherstone Stat, near which are
. coal-pits.
Somewhat flat and uninteresting
countiy succeeds to
Oro/tofiStat (NosteU and Walton
are about 2 m. 1.) Walton Hall is
seen 1. ; and the scenery improves as
Wakefield is approached. The line
passes under the Midland Rly. (Bte.
41^; a pretiy view of Kirkthorpe
village is gained rt. The Bamsley
canal is crossed. 1 m. rt. are Bern
the scanty remains of Sandal Castle
(Bte. 38); and after crossing tlie
river Calder, we reach
Wakefield Stat (For Wakefield,
and for the rest of the line to Leeds,
see Bte. 88.)
8. By Pmtefract and CasOeforfl
The Lancashire and Yorkshire Rly.
— ^the direct line from Knottingler
to Leeds — runs fr<Mn Pontefract to
CaMU/ord (Stat) on the Aire, the
site of tiie Rcnnan Legeolium, a very
important station on the Roman it>ad
between Doncaster and Tadcaster at
the Ford across the Aire. No remains
of the castrum exist; but nnmeroos
relics have been discovered. The N.
Eastern, Midland, and Lancashire
and York. Rlys. have Stots. here. The
ch. was built 1866. This district,
owing to the flourishing Ola994x)ttle
works and the opening of collieries,
has much increased in population
(the township of Castleford, in 1861.
contained 3876 persons; in 1871,
6268). A Uttle above CasUeford the
Calder joins the Aire, and a local
rhyme runs —
" CastlefoTd women mxint needs be fair.
Because tbey wash both In Calder and Aire."
The present inky condition of the
Calder, due mainly to the dye ex-
tracted in shoddy washing, spoils
Uie old rhjnme, for " fair " should now
read«bUck."
(The N. Eastern Rly., running
from Normanton Junet to Milfoid
Junct (on the Gt Northern Rly.
Rte. 2) here crosses the Leeds and
Knottingley line.) At
Meik&y Junct, the line falls into
that of the Midland Rly. (Rte. 41).
A few minutes later it reaches
Me(iat>y Stat 1. is UetUe^ Park
(Earl of Mexborough). The Saviles
became owners of Methley about
1588, " and have the great distinction
of being the living representatives of
their remarkable family." The back
of the hall was probably built by Sir
V
Bottte 28.—Methl£y—OuU<m.
S61
John Savile, whose initials, with the
date 1593, occur on it The front
was built about the beginning of this
century by the 2nd Earl. The house
was famous for a vast gallery, in the
windows of which the arms of the
Yorkshire families were arranged in
wapentakes (so at Gilling Castle,
Rte. 18; it seems to have been a
favourite decoration). Much of this
^lass remains in the possession of
Mr. Holmes of Methley. In the park
are some fine cedars. All this country,
lying within the coal formation, is
richly wooded; and the Aire flows
through bright meadows, bordered by
hills of no great height, but affording
very pleasing views. On one of these
the house of Methley is placed.
MethUy Churek, ded. to St. Oswald,
closely adjoins the park ; it has long
been attached to the Duchy of Lan-
caster. The Methley estates passed
from the Watertons, through the
IHinokes, to the Saviles fSurls of
Mexborongh, the present owners;
and the most interesting portion of
the ch. is the Waterton Cnantry, in
which the lords of Methley have long
been interred. The rest of the ch. is
Dec. (circ. 1320, much glass of this
date remains in the £. window), but
much altered and injured, with a later
tower and octangular spire. The Water-
ton Chantry ranges with the chancel
at the E. end of the S. aisle. It was
founded by the wiU of Sir Bobert
Waterton, who died in 1424, and is
divided from the aisle by a rich stone
screen of Perp. character. It is
lighted by 3 wmdows, one of which
is partly blocked. Under an enriched
canopy in the wall between the
chancel and chantry is the tomb, with
effigies, of the founder and his wife
Cecily. Both wear collars of SS;
and there are many rings on the
fingers of both. On each side of the
tomb are canopied niches, in which
are angels with shields, charged with
the arms of Waterton and of Water-
ton impaling Fleming; and in the
central niche, S., a representation of
the Holy Trinity. Opposite this tomb
is the monument with effigies of
Lionel Lord Welles, and Cecily his
wife, daughter and sole heir of the
founder. Lord Welles fell at the
battle of Towton (1461). The effigies
are of alabaster, and have been ri(3ily
gilt and coloured. In tiie centre of
the chantry is a tomb with 3 effigies —
Sir John Savile, Baron of the Ex-
chequer (died 1606); his wife; and
in the centre their son. Sir Henry
Savile, the 1st baronet There are
also monuments for CHiarles Savile,
Esq. (died 1741), in a '< Roman
habit," with his widow leaning on a
pillar; and John Savile, the first
Earl of Mexborough (died 1778) ; a
fine example of a Mid time. The roof
of the chapel is panelled and painted ;
and many remams of achievements —
helmets, swords, and gauntlets (chiefly
of the 17th cent.) — ^moulder on the
walls. On the N. wall of the nave
hangs a triangular board, recording
the aspiration toward a seat in heaven
of Boger Holling, churchwarden, who, .
in 1624, ** auctoritate archiepiscopi,"
placed seats in this ch.
In the belfry are 2 recumbent
efiigies of ecclesiastics (14th cent)
which deserve attention.
The rly. proceeds through the
valley of the Aire, marked by its flat
meadows, ** formed by gradual depo-
sits from fresh-water inundations and
the tide, laid upon a more nigged and
uneven basis, which was an M arm
of the sea.''— PAiKtjM. Near the
Woodles/ord Stat, is (1. of the rly.)
the village of OuUan^ with a modem
Oothic ch., finished in 18S0, and in-
teresting as having been designed by
the late Mr. Biclmian, author of the
well-known work on Gk>thic archi-
tecture. The ch. has an hexagonal
chancel, and a spire at the W. end.
It was built at the sole cost of the
late John Blayds of Leeds, who left
by will 12,000{. to erect the ch. and a
parsonage house, besides 4000Z. for
862
Route 2S.— Leeds.
endowment. The son of the founder
is owner of Oulton Hall. Onlton was
the birthplace (1661) of the great
scholar Richard Bentley.
[The John of Gaunt Inn, in the
nansh of EothweU, a little S. of
Onlton, is said by tradition to mark
tiie spot where the last wolf in York-
shire was killed by John of Chrant,
Duke of Lancaster It has been
said— Notes to Somerville's * Chase,*
ed. Topham—that the comer of
England in which a price was last
set on a wolfs head was the York-
shire Wolds; but no date is given,
and the assertion must stand for what
it is worth.]
Passing Woodlesford, the Aire and
its canu continue it., with fine
wooded heights beyond. Large quan-
tities of coal are dug on the estate of
Sir John Lowther, owner of Svntting-
ttm HaU (about 1 m. N.).
ffunstet Stat, is then passed, and
amidst a labyrinth of crossing and
recrossing rlys. we enter
Leeds. — WeUington Stat.
There are three principal Station* In Leeds
itaelf, all near togeiber in Wellington Street.
From the Central Stat, start the trains of
the Great Northern, and Lancaahlre and
Yorkshire lUju. From the WOlington Stat,
those of the MidUnd Kly. ; and fkom the
Ifew Stat, those of the North-Eabtem, and
London and North-Westem Rlys.
At Holbeck Junction^ on the outskirts of
the town, is another sutlon, at which all the
trains which pass it stop.
The General Pott Office is in Park Row,
very near to the Wellington station.
Jfm» : The Queen'i Hotel at the Welling-
ton Stat, and the Great northern Hotel at
the Central Stat These are equally good
and reasonable. The Treva^an l^nnperance
Motel In Boar Lane is good.
BaiUoajft, Leeds is oooneoied Iqr rly. with
every part of England ; and it is only neces-
sary here to refer to the various routes de-
■orlbed in this Handbook which start fh>m,
or end at, Leeds. The most direct oommu-
nlcation with London is by the Great North-
em Rlv.; or by the Midland Rly. (Rtes. 1a,
and 41). On either rly. the express perfbrms
the distance in i hrs. 46 min. Pulman's car
trains on the Midland Rly. line now nm b^
t ween London and Bradford by way of Leeds.
Post Office and Telegraphs in JPark Kov.
Pillar-boxes, general.
Leeds (Pop. in 1871, 253,212; in
1881, 809,126) is the great conaanercial
capital of Yorkshire; the centxv of
the clothing trade (it is the great
mart for broadcloths, as Bradford is
for worsteds), and the fifth town in
England in size and importance. It
is the assize town for the West
Riding of Yorkshire.
It is the greatest cloth market in
the world. Every kind of woollen
cloth is made here, and (besides
some worsted mills which exist here,
although Bradford is the true centre
of that trade: see Bte. 35) there is
hardly a branch of manufacture which
is not represented in Leeds. FUx-
mills; dye and bleaching worics ; felt
factories; iron -works, and factories
for the making of machines; brass
foundries, glass-works, cap and shoe
factories on a great scale, chemical
works, and leather-werks are among
the most important of these.
As a necessary result of this vast
mass of manufacture, with its enor-
mous mills, its myriad chimneys, and
tiieir dense cloud of smoke, Leeds
has become (with the exception of
Sheffield) the blackest and most
unsightly town in Yorkshire. It has
of course an air of great wealth, and
the stir and movement in the prin-
cipal street (especially on market
days—Tuesday and Saturday) are
considerable. The long rows 6i ware-
houses belonging to the principal
firms give a special character to the
more modem part of the town. These
are chiefly in WeUington Street, and
it is perhaps to be regretted that so
many of tnem have been designed
after Lombud and ** Benaissance *
X;
he principal sights in Leeds are
the CJturches, the Town HaU, the
FhUo9ophieal HaU with its Mu$ewn,
the Mechamog* In$Hlwtion^ and the
Faetorie9 and machine ** shops" of
Scute 28.— £eed« : Churc1ie».
363
some of the greater firms. These la«t
form of course the great and peculiar
features of the pliuse, bnt they are
not to be seen without a special in-
troduction, and not always even with
one.
8L Pdej^s Parish Ch,, Kirkgate,
is chiefly interesting in connection
with the late exceUent pastor and
divine, Dr. Hook, *'the Apostle of
the West Biding," by whose influ-
ence it was entirely rebuilt, 1839-41,
at a cost*of 28,000, raised by subscrip-
tion. On the side of the altar is an
altar-tomb and effigy of him, designed
by G. G. Scott, raised to him by his
former parishioners. The building,
black outside and dark within, from
much modem stained glass, holds a
congregation of 3000, and the choral
service is well perfonned. Here is
an ancient carved Orose, also a modem
/{ered^M elaborately sculptured, in ala-
iKiSter. The glass in tne E. window
is ancient, and was brought from the
Continent by Thomas Blayds, Esq.,
who presented it At the end of the
K. aisle, is a monument by Flaxman
(not a very suceessfol work), to Cap-
tains Walker and Beckett, natives of
Leeds, who fell at Talavera; and under
the N.E. window is an elaborate monu-
ment for the late Chris. Beckett,
Esq. (designed by Dobson of Leeds).
In the (mancel' is a memorial to
ThcHresby the antiquary, removed
from the former ch.
The organ^ a very fine one, consist-
ing of 2070 pipes, was originally built
by Price of Bristol, in 1714, bat was
rcconstracted by the Messrs. Green-
wood. The height of the tower
is 139 ft The length of the ch.
is 180 ft., and the width 86 ft Dr.
Hook was appointed to the vicarage
in 1837, then worth 1800Z. a year.
He afterwards resigned to the
Ecclesiastical Commissioners half
of this income for the endowment
of 7 districts, to be taken out of the
parish.
St Saviout's Ch,<, on Cavalier Hill,
East Street, in the midst of a poor
district, was consecrated in 1845, and
is understood to have been built
as a penitential offering; the funds
(nearly 10,0002.) having been supplied
through Dr. Pusey. Bound the W.
door (within) is the inscription, " Te
who enter this hol^ place, pray for the
sinner who built it^' This ch., built
under Dr. Hook's own eyee, caused
him great grief, owing to the number
of perverts to Bome Siat issued from
it It stands well, is striking, al«
though the details are not good.
An excellent example of modem
Gothic is the Oh. of AU SauTs, Black-
man Street, raised also as a memorial
to Dean Hook, at a cost of nearly
20,0002.— 1876-80— and held by his
son as vicar. It is one of the best
desiens of Sir G. G. Scott, and is in
English Gothic of the 13th centy.
Since 1837, at least twenty' nem'
chnrches have been bnilt in Leeds
and its suburbs, but few call for
special notice. The ch. of St. John,
Little Holbeck, built in 1850 at the
sole cost of the Messrs. Marshall, was
designed by Sir G, G. Scott, It is
E. Eng. in character.
*St John's Ch., in St John Street
(leading ont of the top of Briggate),
consecrated bv Abp. Neale, S^t. 21,
1604, is probaf>ly a unique example of
a *^ Landian '* ch., completed just be-
fore the outbreak of the civil war.
Until 1870 it retained its original fit-
tings. It has now been "restored,"
but ** every old feature " has, we are
told, " been carefully preserved." But
a new chancel window, with Dec.
tmcerv, has been inserted, and above
the aitar a mosaic reredos has been
placed. The canopy of the original
pulpit has been removed from its place,
and is now hung above the S. door
of the ch. The organ-case, of carved
oak, *'in keeping with the ancient
fittings around it," is also new. St.
John^ was built by John Harrison, a
rich merchant of Leeds. " Methinks,"
says Fuller, ** I hear that great town
accosting him in the language of the
864
Bouie 2Q.— Leeds : Public BuUdingB.
children of the prophets to Elisha —
* Behold now, uie place where we
dwell with thee is too strait for ns.'
The ch. could scarce hold half the
inhabitants, till this worthy gentle-
man provided them another
He accepted of no assistance in the
building of that fair fabric but what
he fully paid for, so that he may be
owned the sole founder thereof/* —
Worthies of JorkdUre,
The ch. consists of a lomr nave and
chancel, with S. aisle. The pillars
dividing nave and aisle display a
strong Gtothic feeling, which appears
also in the capitals, and in the curious
corbels (cherubs with folded wings)
at the intersecting of the arches.
The ancient pews, all uniform, with
carved tops, remain ; as does the pid-
pit, at the side of the nave. (In this
pulpit, on the day of consecration.
Dr. Cosin, afterwards Bp. of Durham,
preached, and in the afternoon the
first incumbent, Robert Todd, who
was suspended on the same day for
some disparaging remarks on the
morning's sennon.) The division of
the chancel is marked by a screen of
woodwork (passing across nave and
S. usle). Tne altar-table is carved,
and round the chancel are ranged
seats, with desks in front of them —
the original arrangement for commu-
nicants. Within Uie altar-rails is the
founders monument, with inscription,
which should be read. Harrison died
in 1656. The arms of Chas. I. and
the Prince of Wales are on the
chancel screen. The windows in the
aisle are flat-headed. In all, the
tracery is Gothic. The tower was
rebuilt during the present century.
Adjoining the ch. is Harrimn'a
Ho$piial» founded by the builder of
the ch. in 1653, as a dwelling-place
for poor people. It was entirely re-
built in 1850. In the school-room
attached to liie ch. and hospital is a
full-length portrait of John Harrison,
in his robes as alderman of Leeds. It
fonnerly hung in the ch.
In Park I^e, not very far from
the rly. stat., is the *^To\cn HcUL, be-
gun in 1853, and opened by Qaeen
Victoria in 1858. Tne architect was
Cuthbert Brodrick. The boildiag is
surrounded by an open portico with
Corinthian columns. From the centre
rises a peculiar tower, crowned by a
dome. The great, or Victoria Hall.
162 ft by 72 ft. and 75 ft high, is
capable of holding 8000 persons. It
is perhaps too short for its great
width, and its pillars, painted to imi-
tate marble, are scarcely worthy of so
imposing a structure. At the N. end
of the nail is an enormons organ*
built by Messrs. Gray and DavisoD*
and one of the finest in En^nd.
Statues <tf the late £d. Bainas» Esq^
and of Bobt Hall, £sq., are placed
in recesses on either side of the hall*
and in the vestibule are fine statues ol
the Queen and *Prince Consort bv
NobiU, The Mayor^s Room contains
a portrait of Sir P. Fairbaim in his
robes as mayor, by GratU ; and one
of C. J. Fox by i2ae6tim. In the
square in front is a bronae statue of
the Duke of Wellington.
The cost of the Town Hall was
about 120,0001. The CorwmUion,
Ofiee$ adjoining the Town Hall, is a
fine Italian building.
The Board School Ofiee9 by the
side of these is a building of similar
style of architecture, and correapond*
ing with the Town Hall.
*The PhiUmMeal HaU, in Park
Bow, comer of Bond Street, contatns
the library and Mutmrn of the Leeds
PhUosophical and Literary Society :
the building was commenced in 1819,
but was greatly enlarged and r«.
opened in 1862. Admission Id. for
each person. It will thoronghlj re-
pay a visit
On the ground-floor are the leciiuw
hall, counca-room, and library. Busts
of benefactors to the institution (in-
eluding those of Benjamin Gott and
John MarshaU), are placed in the
of the hite M. T. Sadler, M.P. In
Bottte 28. — Leeds : PuhUe Buildings.
865
the inner hall are a few local anti-
quitieH in cases: a tesselated pave-
ment from Aldhorongh (Rte. 19), with
a rude repre8entati<m of Romulos and
Kemns; some smaller British and
Roman relics — flints, jet heads, &c. ;
urns of nnusnal pattern; celts, in-
cliiding a lead celt from Anwick, near
New Sleaford, Lincolnshire; and
many antiquities (bone and flint oma-
iiients, spear and adse heads, and
a coin of Antoninus commemorating
the conquest of Britain) from Dow-
kabottom Cave in Craven (see Rte.
my. Here is also a canoe of hollow
(lak found in draining the tarn near
Giggleswick — perhaps British, but
such rude vessels may have been used
to a late period. In the Libraryj
which is exclusively scientific, is
preserved a most valuable collection
of coins and medals, oi all periods,
bequeathed by the late G^rge
Bwon, Esq., of Drewton.
On the upper floor are the Greolo-
gical and £>ological Rooms. The
first is rich in ^th geological and
mineralogical collections admirably
arranged. There is a fine plesio-
sdums macrocephalus, and a great
collection of hippopotamus* ^nes
from Wortley near Leeds (found in
brick earth). Altogether they are
the remains of 4 animals, 1 very old,
1 young, and 2 middle-aged. The
plants from the coal-measures are
especially fine.
The Zoological Room contains an
admirable series of mammalia, de-
srribed by Professor Owen as the
''•moat complete and unbroken serial
exposition of the mammalian class"
existing in England. Among the
animals is a magnificent tiger, dis-
played in the Great Exhibition of
1851, and bought for this museum
by WiUiam Qott, Esq., at a cost
of 90Z. Here also are the fine skele-
toDfl of the great extmet deer {Cervtu
megaeeroB) and of the extinct cave
bear {Unus speZieus), the latter
unique. The collection of foreign
birds is extensive, and the British
birds (in the gallery) well desen-c
notice.
There is a small Indutirial Afuseufn,
full of interest for visitors to Leeds,
and which will, it is to be hcmed,
speedily increase. It is intended to
contain specimens of the manufac-
tures carried on here, and of the
materials used in producing them.
The various specimens of flax, and
the different djres. especially the
tinctorial lichens, are worth notice;
and there are some examples of a
curious manufacture from the aloe
(Agave Amerieana) canricd on at
Newlay. The fibre, commercially
known as ** Mexican fibre," is used
for making brushes, stuffing chairs in-
stead of hair, and for chair seats.
The Meehanies' InttitiUion, a mas-
sive stone building of Italian cha-
racter, is in Ckx>kridge Street, near
the Town Hall. The cost was about
22,0002. The advancement of tecii-
uical education and instruction in
the fine arts are well provided for
here. The Library contains about
18,000 volumes.
The Leed$ library in Commercial
Street, founded in the last cent.,
and belonging to a proprietary of 500
shareholders, contains a goiod and
extensive collection. Among the
books are 20 vols, of Civil War tracts,
including many of local interest; 11
vols, of German and Latin tracts, re-
lating to the early Reformation in
Germany; a large paper copy of
Thoresby's * Dncatus Leodensis,^ with
WiUon's MS. notes ; and 4 MS. vols,
of Yorkshire Pedigrees, beeides one of
Lancashire. These were first com-
piled by Hopkinson toward the end
of the 17th cent, and received ad-
ditions and notes by Thomas Wilson
at the beginning of the 18th.
The Central PtMie Free Library
is in Infirmary Street. There are
about 27,000 vols. Branch libraries
exist at Hunslet and H<dbeck.
The Mixed Cloth Hall, a lung
366
Boute2S. — Leeds: Buildings; Manufactories.
bailding without architectural cha-
racter, stands nearly opposite the
Wellington Bly. Stat. It is divided
into 6 compartments or *' streets," each
of which contains 2 rows of stalls,
with the name of the clothier to
whom it belongs marked on each stall.
On Tuesdays and Saturdajrs the hall
is open for an hour and a half, and
the Dusiness done in that short time
is sometimes very extensive.
The WhUe Cloth HaU, in Welling-
ton Street, is on a scale of some
magnificence. The cost wa« about
SO,OOOL
Near the Mixed Cloth Hall stands
a bronze statue of Sir R. Peel, de-
signed by Sehnes, costing 1500 gui-
neas, raised by public subscription.
Opposite, at the comer of Boar
Lane and Park Row, is the Boyal
Exeifiange, the foundation-stone of
which was laid in 1872 byH.R.H.
Prince Arthur. The design (by
Messrs. Healey^ of Bradford) is Porp.
Gothic, of the latter part of the 15th
centy., and merits more than a casual
glance. Any one caring for architec-
ture cannot do better, after leaving
the Royal Exchange, than to take a
walk up Park Row, and examine the
principal buildings there. The I7nt-
torton Chapd^ the first building we
come to, though erected in the early
years of the Gothic revival, is, from
Its excellent proportions, one of the
best buildings in the town. A little
higher up the street Sir OiCbert Scott
is well represented in the Bank of
Messrs. Beckett and Co., and Mr.
Waterhouie and others have shown
how well Gk>thic is adaptable to shop
requirements.
I4eeds is rich in charitable institu-
tions, and contains of course Dissent-
ing places of worship of every kind.
But the town can show few relics of
earlier days. The most interesting
is perhaps the Bed HaU, in Upper-
het^ Row — the house in which
Charles I. was confined for a day or
two when passing southward in the
custody of Comet Joyce.
WeUinffton Street^ in wliieh an-
the principal warehouses, and Bri^
gale, where are the best shops, ai>
the most important streets in Leeds :
and a fine street has been made m
the site of the ancient Boar Imk
At the foot of Briggate is Leeif I
Bridae, over the Aire, on which, be-
fore 1684, the cloth market was beU
The doth was brought to the biidre
on pack-horses, and hung over tlie
battlements for exhibition. The (M
stone bridge, was entirely replaced
in 1873 by a wide iron bridge.
On the skirt of Woodhooe Moor.
above the town, is the Qrammar
Sehoolf a (Gothic building by Edtwri
Barry^ from a design by his fath^
Sir Charlee Barry. The Khool «i^
founded in 1552, by '' Sir Willidii:
Sheafield, priest,'* and has since bern
well endowed.
Woodhowe Moor itself is ih^
'* breathing-place " of Leeds ; and.
happily, is safe from enclosore, since
it has been bought by the corpontios.
From it there is a nne view up the
valley of the Aire: on the side ct
which, and round the moor, are the
houses of the principal merdiants.
The Ho$piial and Medietd fidkcol
near it, built from the designs of
Sir G. G. SootU are good, and we Q
placed. The fonner is built on th^
principle of separate pavilions* so »?
to obtain as much quiet and free air
as possible. The design is a kind of
Lombard Gkythic, with an aicadcd
screen connecting the several portions.
The great Manufadoriee of Leeds
are the chief sights of the place, bat
those to which a stranger without zb-
trodnctions has the least chance of
access. They are collected, for the
most part, near the W. or Kirkstill
road; and at night, when the light
streams from innumerable windows,
rising tier above tier, all this quarter
of Leeds is very strikinff and impres-
sive. Of the Cloth miUs one or the
largest is that of Messra. Oott at
Bean Ing, where the whole process
of manuifacture may be witnessed
BovUe 28. — Leeds: Mamtfadoiries.
867
from the veiy commencement. (See
IfUrod.) Their great establiahment,
-where the complied goods are sorted
and stored, is in Wellington Road.
In Leeds and its immediate neigh-
bourhood there are between 800 and
900 manufacturers of woollen cloth,
some of them representing linns of
^reat wealth and miportance. Cloth
is still the staple produce of the dis-
trict ; but iheflax trade is increasing
liere fast, and with the exception <h
Belfast, the mills are said to turn out
more work than any other town in
the United Kingdom. One of the
largest flax-mills in Europe is that of
the Messrs. Marshall, on the S. side
of the Aire. (Turn down Neville
Street, opening from Swinegate, near
the Wellington Stat. ; cross the Vic-
toria Bridge, and take the first turn-
ing rt.) lliere are here two mills.
the cli^ built after the usual style of
factories; and the new, a very re-
markable building) which, instead of
being raised to a height of 5 or 6
stories, is spread over a space of about
two acres, fonning one enormous
apartment 400 ft. long by 216 ft.
broad, and 20 ft. high. The roof, of
groined arches built of brick, rests
upon 50 cast-iron pillars. There are
G6 of these arches or domes, each of
which is lighted by a circular lan-
tern, 14 ft. in diameter, and rising
about 9 ft above the roof. This ar-
rangement avoids the steam, which
collects in the older factories, story
over story ; and provides a far better
light, di is saia that the plan does
not really involve a greater extent of
ground: but this seems questionable.)
Upon the roof itself (between the
lanterns) is laid coal-tar mixed with
lime, so as to be impermeable to
moisture; and this is covered with
eight inches of soil, sown with grass,
—4)y which means an equable tem-
perature is secured for the hall below.
The entrance to the mill is designed
after the propyleeon of an Egyptian
tffluple ; and the lofty obelisk which
rises beside it is a chimney in dis-
guise; but the *^ taskmasters ** he^
have little cause to fear a comparison
with those on the banks of the Nile.
Besides building a church (St. John's,
opj)08ite the imll) for the "hands'*
which people the district, the Messrs.
Marshall have established schools, and
have provided an excellent library for
their workmen.
All the operations connected with
flax-spinning and weaving are carried
on in this vast hall, where about
1000 hands are at work daily. The
spindles alone are valued at 100,0002.
The view in every direction is of
course wonderful ; and the thorough
ventilation, the order, cleanliness, and
silence (broken only by the click of
machinery) are most striking. The
best flax is imported from the neigh-
bourhood of Poictiers, where the
water of the Liesse has some peculiar
quali^ which greatly improves it.
Flemish flax comes next, then Dutch,
and last that imported from the
Baltic.
Huckaback towels, coverings for
mattresses, all kinds of linen fabrics,
and an immense amount of sewing
thread, are made here. The great
engines, each of 100 horse-power, are
worth special notice; the working
machinery is carried underground
from them, for the sake of safety.
Of the Jrofi Factorisi and Foun-
dries the largest is perhaps the Aire-
dtHe Foundry (MjBSsra. Kitson), where
locomotives, stationary engines, and
boilers, &c., are made ; but one still
more interestmg is the Wellington
Foundry, belonging to Messrs. Fair-
bairn. This covers nearly 4 acres of
ground; and all the delicate ma-
chinery used for spinning flax, tow,
hemp, and silk, nui^ here be seen in
process of consbiiction. The mould-
ing of the various pieces of iron is
veij curious and interesting ; and the
visitor will have a good opportunity
of studying here the construction of
the machines which he may have
seen at work at Messrs. QoiVa or
Marshall's.
368
Boute 28. — Leeds : History.
To some oven of more interest than
Messrs. Fairbaim*s is the machine
** shop " of Mes8r$. Bailey and Green-
tcQod^ at Armleyy where is turned oat
an inmiense amount of machinery
for the making of field-guns, rifles,
and other implements of war, and
for the more peaceful trade of silk
dressing. — (It may here also be men-
tioned that Armley gaol, 1| m. from
the Town Hall, is a model in its
wav.) Taylor, Wordsworth and Co.'s
tool manufactory is an extensive
establishment.
The Glass Works of Messrs. Bower
at Hunslet, and the Sheepsear
SpanWi, Leather Works belonging to
Messrs. Wilson, are also well de-
serving of a visit Every kind of
manufacture is indeed represented
at Leeds. There are 9 tobacco fac-
tories ; and more than 30 firms en-
gaged in chemical preparations of
various sorts.
Among many men of note bom in
Leeds were— 'Ralph ThoreAvy the
antiquary; Ih, mUner, author of
the * Church History,* and his
brother the Dean of (Carlisle ; Ben-
jamin WUson, the landscape artist ;
and William Lodge, the engraver.
No one who can afford the time
should leave Leeds without visiting
Jtoundhatfj the Public Park, about
3 m. from the top of Brij^gate, situ-
ated in the very centre of the hand-
some, homes and gardens of the
wealthy citizens of Leeds. It was
purchased in 1872 by the corporation
on behalf of the public, at a cost of
140,000Z. It is 773 acres in extent,
situated on beautifully undulating
ffround, well-wooded, with several
lakes and waterfalls, far away from
tiie noise and turmoil of the town.
It appears to exactly answer the pur-
poses for which it was acqmred.
llie mansion of Boundhay, a large
house with a lofty colonnaded por-
tico, is set apart as an Hotel of the
first class. The gardens are gene-
rally open to all. It may safely be
said that no other town in England
possesses such a ** people's park"* as
Koundhay.
Sistory of Leeds.
There was no Boman station at
Leeds, which lay in the heart of the
Brigantian territory ; but Boman
roads ran through or near the site of
the existing town from Cambodunum
(Slack) to Tadcaster, and from Castle-
tord (Legiolium) to Bkley (01icana\
At Adel, 5 m. N. of Leeds, on the
latter of these roads, are traces of a
considerable Boman town ; and there
is reason to believe that the iron with
which this country abounds wa?
worked and smelted by the Bomans
not only in the neighbourhood, but
on the site of Leeds itself. (Heaps
of scorin have been found here.)
During the troubles which followed
the departure of the Bomans, the
country of which Leeds was the
centre seems to have become a small
independent kingdom, which, about
the year 616, was ruled by a certain
Cerdic — ^whom Bede expressly calls
" rex Britonum ** (H. E. iv.' 23)—
indicating that the district had not
at that time been taken possession of
by the Anglians. It was, about that
vear, conquered and incorporated bv
^win of Northumbria {Nenniut
H. Britonum), whose nephew, Here-
ric, exiled from the Northumbrian
court, had taken refuge with Cerdic.
who poisoned him. This kingdom of
'^Loidis," or Leeds (the name first
occurs in Bede, 1. ii. 14, and its ety-
mology is altogether uncertain), in-
clude the greater part of the valley's
of the Aire, the Calder, and the
Wharfe. At or near Leeds (pro-
bably at Osmundthorpe) the North-
umbrian kings possessed a villa ; and
the western portion of Loidis was
known as Elmete — ^ the wood of El-
mete" — (so named, it has been con-
jectored, from the ** elm ** trees which
then, as now, may have thicklj
covered it : but this derivation is not
quite satisfactory). In this wood.
Bauie 28.— Xeeda.* Hktoty.
369
and probably on the site of the exist-
ing parish ch. of Leeds, stood the
monastery ** of the most reverend
abbot and priest Thrydwnlf,^ in
which was preserved the altar which
oscaped the fire when Penda burnt
C-amoodunnm (see Bte. 87).
After the Goncmest, Leeds suffered
like the rest of Yorkshire, and the
T«'hole neighbourhood is described in
* Domesday ' as ** wasta.*^ It then
passed to the great baron Ilbert de
Laci, who built a castle here, which
Mas besieged and taken by Stq>hen
ill 1139, and in which Richard II.
was confined for a short time before
he was taken to Pickerins; (see ante,
Pontefract). No trace of this castle
soenis to have existed when Leland
visited Ijeeds, which he describes as
** a praty market towne .... as
large as Bradford, but not so quick
as it." The town was first incor-
porated in the 2nd year of Charles I.
in 1642 it was taken by the Royalists,
under the Biarquis of Newcastle ; and
in the following year was retaken for
the Parliament by Sir Thomas Fair-
fax^ after a severe skirmish. 500 pri-
soners fell at this time into the hands
of Fairfax. Cloth-making had been
established in this district from a
much earlier period, probably from
the reign of Edward III., when
Flemish workmen were brought into
Yorkshire; and at the beginning of
the last, cent Leeds had Mcome the
great centre of the northern cloth
trade — ^the cloths made here being
cf Jled " narrow," says De Foe, " when
they axe spoken of in London, and
compared with the broad cloths made
in Wilts, Gloucester, Somerset, and
Devon." Writmg about 1714, he
describes the neighbourhood as **a
noble scene of industry and applica-
tion, which, joined to the market at
Leeds, where it chiefly centres, is
such a surprising thing, that liiey
who have pretended to give an
account of Yorkshire, and luive left
this out, are inexcusable— many tra-
vellers and gentlemen having come
(Torib^ireO
over from Hamburgh, nay, even from
Leipsick in Saxony, on purpose to see
it."— Tour in Great BrUain, 111.
The cloth market was at first held
on the large and wide bridge which
crossed the Aire ; " and therefore the
refreshment given the clothiers bv the
inn-keepers, being a pot of ale, a
noggin of porrage, and a trencher of
broifed or roast beef, for twopence, is
called the Irigg^iol to this day.'* —
De Foe, Afterwards the market was
held in the street now called Brig-
Ste, until in 1758 the Mixed Cloth
ill was buUt, and is still in use.
In 1775, the White Cloth Hall was
erected, and was used until 1860,
when it gave place to the New Hall
in Wellington-street and King-street.
The prosperity of Leeds increased
gradually and steadily until the be-
ginning of the present century, when,
like other manufacturing towns in the
north, it made sudden and rapid pro-
gress ; and the population, which in
1801 was 55,162, had become 172,270
in 1851, in 1861 was upwards of
200,000, and is now (see ants) more
than 300,000.
Unless the tourist*8 object be to
study the mills and manufactures of
Leeds (for which he must have
special advantages and introduc-
tions), he will hudly care to remain
here ifor more than a day or two.
Most of the places, however, men-
tioned in the preceding and follow-
ing routes may be made the objects
of a day*s excursion from Leeds : and
the great manufacturing towns Brad-
ford, Halifax, Huddersfield, Barns-
ley) are reached in so short a tune by
riy. that a long dav may be spent in
each without difficulty. KMeetatt
Abbey (see Route 29) is within a few
minutes' distance by rly., and trains
are constantly running. Longer ex-
cursions may be made to (a) Adel
(5 m.) and to (b) Temple Newmrn
(4 m.).
(a.) The country lound Leeds is
much broken into hill and valley,
2 B
370
Souie 28.— Add: Church.
aud is sti]] much wooded, though
there are few relics of the ancient
"forest of Ehnete." The road to
Adel passes across Woodhouse Moor,
having below it, rt., the pretty Mean-
wood valley* through which a stream
descends to join the Aire. At Head-
ingletj (2} m.) is the skeleton of a
most venerable oak known for ages
as the Skyrack, or SfctVe-oofc, and
giving its name to the Wapentake.
It is quite dead, but the trunk is still
supported by ivy. Near it are two
Inns— the * Oak'Tree * and the * Sly-
rack.' Like other famons oaks, this
tree probably served as a boundaiy-
uiark, and may have been the place
of assembly for the Wapentake. The
ch. of East Headingley, St, Chad's,
was built, 1863, from designs of Sir
Edmund Beckett, Bart., at the expense
of his father.
2} m. beyond, on hiffh ground, in
an open country with little wood, is
the mrm. ch. of Adel, well-known to
archaeologists. Adel is on the line of
a Roman cross-road which ran from
Castleford to Ribchester. There was
a station on the hill-slope N. of the
village, where many Roman remains
(among them an altar inscribed to the
goddess Brigantia) have been dis-
covered ; and it has been suggested
that the existing church may have
been built on the foundations of a
Roman building.
The Oiureh of St, Jofm Oie Bap-
tist was given by Ralph Paffancl to
the Benedictine Pnory of Holy
Trinity at York ; and remained in the
possession of that house until the
Dissolution. It was judiciously re-
-stored 1878. It is a small Hotm.
building, consisting only of nave and
chancel. The windows on the N.
side are all (except one) round-
headed, of one light; only one
original window remains, on the S.
At the W. end are three Norm, win-
dows. (The belfry above is modem.)
The £. window is Ferp. All the
windows are above a stringcourse,
high in the wall; and the corbel-
table below the roof should be espe-
cially noticed. The most striking
features of the ch., however, are the
S. porch and the chancel arch — both
enriched with very elaborate Norm,
sculpture. Over the porch is a gabled
pediment, in which appear the
Saviour, with the emblems of the
four Evangelists, and the Lamb with
a cross. The chancel arch recedes in
three orders, the outermost of which
has the bird's-head moulding. On
the capitals of the shafts are — the
Baptism of our Lord — (an angeU as
in the earliest Byzantine represents-
tions, holds his robe) — ^the Criici£xi(«i
— a knight with spear and shield—
and a sagittary. This last emblem
(the device of King Stephen) pnv
bably marks the &te of the ch.,
which may be compared with that of
Iffley near Oxford, nearly of the same
time and character. The glass in the
E. window dates from 1601. The
three bad pictures in the ehancel
representing the ^^gony of onr Lord.
His Crucifixion, and Ascension, air
by Vanderhank, and were givien to
the ch. by Wm. Jackson, rector, who
died in 1766.
In a hollow near the ch. is a mill
— a modem building on a mill site
of extreme antiquity; and close
above it is the site of the Roman
station, marked by one line of the
original vallum. On the S. it W8^
defended by a stream and a deep
bog. The Roman road ran above it.
Sepulchral remains, altars, &e., have
been found at and near this statiun
— ^the name of which has not been
S reserved, although in the Domesdar
urvey a place in the parish of Adel
receives the name of JBurheduram--
possibly representing that of the
Roman town. Of the altars, some are
to be seen in the Leeds Mnseom.
In the valley above the miU is a
Reformatory Schooly eetab. 1857.
(The pedestrian may walk acwss
the countiT from Adel to Haiewood.
(See the following Bte.) The distance
18 about 5 m.).
Soute 28* — Temple Newsaiiu
ill
(5.) 5 m. S.E, of Leeds, on high
ground, in a country which must
hare been veiy pleasant before the
dajs of smoke and tall chimneys, is
Tem^ NeiDsam (Mrs. Meynell In-
gram). The house is famous for its
collection of pictures, which are
shown on Thursdays in the absence
of the family.
At Newsam (Newhusain in Domes-
day) a preceptory of Knights Temp-
laro was founded in 1181; which on
the suppression of the order passed to
the Hospitallets, who ceded the ma-
nor to CSdward II. in 1324. It was
afterwards granted to Sir John
D'Arcy. After the death of Thomas
Lord D^Arcy, who was beheaded for
his share in the Pilgrimage of Grace
(1569), Temple Newsam passed to
the Earl of Lennox and his wife
Margaret, grand daughter of Heniy
vn. ; and it was here that their son,
the unlucky Damley, husband of
Mary of Scotland, was born. James I.
gave the estate to his kinsman the
Duke of Lennox, who sold it to Sir
Arthur Ingram. Prom Lord Irvine,
who represented the Ingram family,
it came in 1807 to the Marquis of
Hertford, who took the surname of
Ingram before that of Seymour ; and
from him to the late proprietor, H. C.
Meynell Ingram, Esq.
'the existing house was built temp.
Charles I., by Sir Arthur Ingram,
who pulled down the older mansion,
retaining, however, a portion of the
baUding which contained what, ac-
cording to Thoresby, was called the
- 'RoySi. Chamber," in which Damley
was born. This room, however, can
no longer be identified. The new
house was injured by fire in 1685;
but seems to have been at once re-
stored. It is of brick, with stone
coigns, very picturesque, in plan
resembling a half H ; and in com-
pliance with a quaint fashion of the
time, the open battlement running
round the roof is composed of capittd
letters, cut in stone, forming the
words, <*A11 Oloiy and Praise be
given to God, the Father, the Son, and
Holy Ghost, on High; Peace upon
Earth, Gh)od Will toward Men; Honour
and true Allegiance to our Gracious
King, Loving Affections among his
subjects, He^th and Plenty within
this house." The interior is fine, and
contains two very striking apartments :
the Library, 24 ft. square: and the
Picture QaUUry 108 ft. by 28 ft.
Unfortunately this room is badly
lighted, and it is impossible to get a
good view of the pictures it conteins.
The most important are —
Guido.—iohxi the Baptist; St.
Margaret. RtibeM. — The Virgin and
CSiild, the Baptist, and Joseph, in a
landscape. Niehohu Pottsstn. — The
Virgin, with the Baptist and St.
Elisabeth. Annibale Cfarrocct.— The
Dead CJhrist with Disciples. WiUiam
Vandevelde, — Two sea-pieces ; one of
Van Tromp^s naval victories. Poeimn-
Imrg. — A Charity, with children and
angels ; " belongs in every respect to
his finest works?' — Waagen. Miere-
vddt, — ^Maurice, Prince of Orange.
Sir J. Revnolds, — Marchioness of
Hertford ; niU-length, with landscape
background ; Lord and Lady Irwine ;
and a Shepherd Boy. TT. Jan
Assdyn. — ** A large and very beau-
tiful picture, inscribed and dated
1646.**^ JRembrandi, — Portrait of
himself. Albert JJUrer. — A Cruci-
fixion ; Dr. Waagen assigns this pic-
ture to a <*gu>d master of the
Dutch school ofthe latter half of the
15th cent." Jan Fyf.— A Wild-Boar
Hunt. Gaspar Potumin, — A land-
scape. ^Titian, — Portrait of Martin
Bucer, the reformer ; " unquestionably
the finest picture in the collection.' —
Wcuigm, Claude, — Landscape with
ruins; fine. Le Bcurguinon. — Land-
scape and sea-piece.
The park of Temple Newsam is
large, well-wooded, and full of deer ;
but the smoke of Leeds extends even
here, and the trees are much blackened
on the side towards the town. One
avenue is very picturesque.
(The ruins of Thorpe HaU, 2 m. S.
2 B 2
372
Bauie 29.— iecrfg to Harrogate.
of Temple Newwun, the mediaeval
residence of the SkargiUs, will repay
the visit of an architecSnral antiqnarj.
It was partly demolished by Sir
Arthor Ingram in the time of Chas.
I., after he purchased it from Maior
Clough.) •*
A drive of not quite a mile will
bring the visitor from Temple New-
sam to the village of Whitktrk ; very
near which is Audhorpe Lodge, the
birthplace of John SmeaUm the engi-
neer, and the constructor of the Eddy-
stone lighthouse. He was bom here
June 8, 1724; his father was an
attorney. Austhorpe remained his
home during the whole of his active
life ; and the square tower which he
built for his study still exists. He
died here, October 28, 1792, and was
buried in Whitkirk church. (For an
sketch of his life, see Smiles's ' Lives
of the Engineers,* vol. ii.) He is said
to have designed iron gates for the
park of Tem|)le Newsam ; and water
18 still raised in the grounds there by
an ingenious hydraulic ram which he
constructed.
WhUkirk Churck deserves a visit.
It is Perp., with a tower, of which the
Earapet overhangs, as if machioolated.
a it is an altar-tomb, with effigies,
temp. Henry VII., for Robert Scargill
and his wife, founders of a chantiy
here ; a monument, with effigies, for
Ed. Viscount Irwine; and another
(by NcUekem) for the last Lord and
Lady Irwine. On the wall of the
chancel is a tablet for John Smeaton
and his wife. It is surmoonted by
a model of the Eddystone.
ROUTE 29.
LEEDS TO HARROGATE (KIRKSTALL
HAREWOOD).
{N, Eattem JUy^ 10 trains dailj,
in 40 to 50 min.)
Leaving Leeds from the New
Stat., and stopping at the Holhetit
Jundtny the line curves northward,
crossing the Wharfe bv a viaduct.
In the valley 1. is the viUage of Bnr-
Iw, with a good modem Chwrch (St.
Matthias). At the end of the S.
transept is a tower and spire 1U6 ft.
high.
10 min. after leaving Leeds the
train reaches
8 m. Headingley Stat (For the
village and its ancient oak-tree, see
Rte. 28, p. 870.) Below the stot., U is
the manufacturing village of KirkftaJl
and in the valley close above it the
ruins of KirkstaU Abbey,
The remains of Kh-kstall are more
perfect than those of any other York-
shire abbey, with the exception of
Fountains. They have consequently
a very high interest for the archeo-
logist But, although the sitaation
is still beautiful, the smoke of I>ed8
has so blackened the ruins and ihe
trees which surround them ; the Aire,
which flows by, is so completely dis-
coloured; and the valley above and
below is so full of busy life and tall
chunneys, that Kirkstall haa far less
charm than many a ruin of lees im-
portance. There is of course some-
thing very striking in the contrMt
between these relics of a former age.
and the factories and railroeds that
enciide them.
In the first half of the 12th cent.
Henry de Lacy, **vir magnarun re-
rum, et inter proceres regni notissi-
mus," made a vow, during a danger-
ous illness, that, should he recover,
BotOe 29.—Ktrh8tdll Abbey.
873
he would found a house of Cifltercian
monks — ^the order which had just
(see Bieraiilx, Bte. 18a ; and Foun-
tains, Bte. 22) heen introduced in
Yorkshire. His abbey was first esta-
blished at Bamoldswick in Crayen
(see Bte. 80), where, in 1147, a colony
of monks was translated from Foun-
tains. At Bamoldswick, however, the
Cistercians encountered many troubles
and difficulties, some of their own
seeking (Bte. 30) ; and the abbot was
anxious to remove his convent to a
better situation, when, journeying on
the business of the house, he chanced
to pass through the then lonely and
wooded valley of the Aire. Near the
place where Kirkstall now stands, he
found a small body of hermits ; and,
says the chronicle of Kirkstall (pre-
served in the Bodleian — a part has
been printed in the Monasticon),
" delighted with the amenilr of the
place, he turned aside to ask of the
hermits whence they came and what
was their mode of life. A certain
*< Seleth," whom they recognised as
their head, told him that he came
from the southern part of England,
in obedience to a voice which called
him in a dream.
The abbot, who had been struck
with the capabilities of the site,
*' beg^ at once," says the chronicler,
to point out to Seleth and his brethren
the superior advantages of a true
monastic life to that which they had
adopted ; and leaving them to TOuder
his words, went straightway to Henry
de Lacy (probably to Pontef raet). He
told De Lacy of the Bamoldswick
troubles, and added that he had found
a site in every way preferable, to
which' the convent might be re-
moved. Kirkstall, however, belonged
to William of Poictou, and not to De
Lacy: but by the latter's influence
the site was gained. ^The arms of
the abbey, 8 swords palewise, points
downwards, were adopted from those
of WiUiam of Poictou.) Some of the
hermits joined themselves to the Cis-
tercian honse, Others received a sum
of money and departed elsewhere.
(The names of Nostell— North-stall,
and Kirkistall, mdicate foresters*
" stalls ^ or lodges in the midst of
the wood ; and it would seem that a
small ch. had once existed at Kirk-
stall before the arrival of the hermits.)
Henry de Lacy laid the foundation
of the monastic ch. at Kirkstall with
his own hands, and the whole fabric
of the monastery was completed at
his cost. The brethren entered their
new house May 19, 1152. Across the
river there was a tract of rich land.
William de Bainville, its lord, gave it
to the monastery, which henceforth
had its cornfields and granges close at
hand ; and other benefactors speedily
increased its possessions.
Of the later history of the house
there is little to record. The gross
annual value at the Dissolution was
5122. 13s. 4<{. The site was then
granted, in exchange for other lands,
to Abp. Cranmer, and after many
changes it came, with adjoining
estates, into the hands of the Earls of
Cardigan, who still possess it.
A small sum is paid for admission
to the roins, which the visitor is then
left to examine at his leisure. The
greater part of the remains is Trans.-
Nonn.; no doubt belonging to the
original building erected by Henry
de Lacy. The first abbot— Alexan-
der, who had been prior of Fountains
when he removed to Bamoldswick,
and who had procured the site of
Kirkstall — ruled the house for 35
years. The general plan of the
remains resembles that of Fountains
(Bte. 22), except that the hospitium
(perhaps owing to the nature of the
ground) seems to have been here
placed jS. of the abbot's house, instead
of in the court W. of the ch., as was
most usual.
The Church, which consists of a
long nave, with transepts, and a very
short choir, is throughout Trans. -
Norm, with the exception of the
upper part of the tower (at the inter-
section of the transept) and of the
374
Boute 2d.^Kirh8tdll Ahbe^.
£. end of the choir. These are Perp.
of late character. The original tower,
in accordance with Cistercian pre-
cepts (see Fountains), rose hut little
ADoye the roof; but, as at Fountains,
a later age grew impatient of this
simplicity, and a loftj Perp. tower
was raised on the older structure.
This seems to have been incapable
of supporting the additional weight
At all events 2 sides, and a part of
a third, fell in 1779, leaving the re-
maining portion in somewhat insecure
condition. From the occurrence of
the letters W. M. on the buttresses,
it appears that this superstructure was
added by William Marshall, abbot
from 1509 to 1528.
The design of the W. front is un-
usual, verv picturesque, and should
be especiallv noticed. The pointed
pediment of the portal rises to the
sill of the window above it, which
has 2 rounded arches within a wider
circ. arch, the tympanum of which is
(at present) quite plain. (The gable
and side pinnacles are of later (Perp.)
date.) The long nave and transepts
are of nearly the same date as those
of Fountains, and, like that, are plain
and massive, though there is perhaps
a greater tendency to enrichment at
Kirkstall. The arches of the main
arcades are pointed. The windows of
aisles and clerestory are round-headed.
The transepts were without western
aisles, and each eastern aisle was di-
vided into 3 chapels, separated,, as at
Fountains, by solid walls. The choir
or chancel was unusually short, pro-
jecting only 1 bay beyond the E. wall
of the transept. Neither monuments
nor tomb-slabs exist in the ch., the
entire length of which is 224 ft 6 in
It does not stand due E. and W., but
the Cistercians seem to have paid no
great attention to the observance of
this rule, which is English rather than
universal.
The CloUter, as usual, is on the S.
side of the nave, and forms a quad-
rangle of X43 ft by 115. The whole
is Ti»ns.-Nonn. with ronnd-headed
windows and doors. On the B. side
adjoinii^ the S. transept of the ck.
is the Chapter-house, a lon^ paral-
lelogram (as was usual with the Cis-
tercians), with 2 massive piers rising
in the centre, and dividing the apart-
ment into 8 bays, the 2 westernmost
of which are Tran8.-Nonii. ; the
eastern (with the eastern pier) Dec.
The Chapter-house is &lr ft. 9 in.
long and 30 ft. 6 in. wide. Several
stone coffins with their coveting slabs
were inserted in the walls when the
apartment was extended, and bones
that have been f nictnred have been
found in some of them. ProhablT
they were those of monben of the
Lacy family, or of the earlier abbots.
Some stone coffins, which have not
been appropriated, remain on the
floor. Beyond the Chapter-house are
two small apartments of imoertain
use, and on the S. side of the oomt is
ihejRefeetory, the 4 doorways opening
to which are now walled up. The
KitcJien opened from the S.£. comer
of the refectorv ; and W. <rf it was
what seems to have been the Frater'
house^ or "common room" of Oie
monks. Eastward of the refectorr.
but now indicated by little more than
foundations, was the abbot's house,
with hall and chapel as at Fountains,
thouffh on a less magnificent scale:
and beyond again are the foondatioos
of the HospiHum,
A wide passage W. of the Frater-
house formed t£e main entrance to
the cloister court ; and stretching
along and beyond the W. side of the
court was the Grtat Covered CUriav.
172 ft. 6 in. long by 29 wide. Ex-
tending W. of this' cloister, at its
southern angle, is a building, the ap-
propriation of which it is difficult t4>
determine. Above the cloister was
the Dormitory. All these buildings
w;e Trans.-Nonn. The Oatehouft,
N. W. of the abbey, is now attached
to a private residence.
In 1856 the ruins were taken ca
lease by a committee formed in Leeds,
Eouie 29. — Hortforth — Harewood,
876
and some excavations have been made
under their direction. Some yerj in>
teresting objects have been discovered,
among them a chess-piece of the 12th
cent., carved from ifche task of a wahns
(see description and iigare in the
ArohfBoL Jonnial, vol. ^i.); a mould
of Caen stone for casting metal escal-
iop-sheUs; several ornamented keys;
fragments of glass and pottery ; and
a large nnmber of encaustic paving-
tiles, portions of patterns of elaborate
design. The rains are tolerably kept,
but it is to be regretted that noisy /etes
and large picnics are sometimes per<
mitted among them. The gatherers
on such occasions are hardly so re<
verential as Dr. Johnson, who per-
sisted in remaining uncovered within
the roofless walls of St. Andrew's
Cathedral.
The large iron-works at KirkstaU
^\)rge, about a mile from the abbey,
probably mark the site of a very
ancient foundry established by the
monks, who, here as elsewhere in
Yorkshire, did not neglect the iron-
stone which they found on tiieir
lands.
Kirkstall Chureh is modem, and
dates from 1829.
Leaving Kirkstall, the next stat on
the rly. is at
5k m. Horsforth, The large village
(Pop. 5465) with its cloth-mills lies 1.
of tne line. Bt., soon after leaving
the stat. is Moseley Wood, through
which ornamental walks have been
cat ; and behind it Cookridge HaUy
once a seat of John Sheffield, Duke
of Buckinghamshire (bom 1650, d.
1720), court favourite throughout the
reigns of C!has. II., Jas. II., and
Anne ; a poet whose veise^ . are
now forgotten, and a critic* whose
merit was recognised by Diyden, by
Prior—
•* —Happy the poet, blest the Im
Which jBucklnghAm has deiguea to praiae**—
and by Pope—
AhM.
** Such yn» the muse, whose mles and proo
tice tell
•Natnre'g chief master-piece is writing
welL' **— Essay on Critidm,
The last line is from the Duke's
' Essay on Poetry.* Cookridge Hall
has been partly rebuilt
A veiy handsome Ckmvaleso&nt
Home for the town of Leeds has
been erected here at the cost of
J. Metcalfe-Smith, Esq. (archit.
Norman Shaw). It is supported by
voluntaty contributions.
Soon after passing Moseley Wood
the rly. plunges into Bramhope Tun-
nel, cut through the high ground of
which Otley Chevin is the cresting
ridge. This tunnel is more than 2 m
long, and during its constraction some
of the workmen were killed by a fall
of rock, an accident commemorated bv
a tablet in Otley Ch. (Rte. 30). A
short distance beyond the tunnel the
line reaches
9} m. ArOiingion Junct. Stat. The
view on either side is of great beauty,
with the Wharfe, here a wide and
full river, flowing between green
banks and backed by steep wooded
hills. L branches off the Haikcay to
Otley and Dkley (Bte. 80).
Rt. Sareioood, castle, ch., house,
and park, is distant about 4 m.
No conveyance is to be had at
Arthington Stat. Harewood Houee
(see poet) is open on Thursdays
between 11 and 4.
The walk from Arthington to Hare-
wood is pleasant ; turning L from the
high road about i^ m. from the Stat.
and crossing Harewood Park to the
village. Attkmgton HaU (Rev.
Thomas Sheepshanks) and Park are
passed 1. ; and opposite, rt., is a
striking modem Ckureh, built and
endowed by the kte Mr. Sheepshanks
(archit, ~ Healey of Bradford). The
style is early (}eom., of nther French
than English character, and with a
tower and spire decidedly French.
The stained glass is by Clayton and
BeU. Tbere are some good 8ehooh
376
JSatito29. — ffarewood: Castle; Church.
<m the 1. of the road. Arihingion
Hall (in which is a fine picture by
Cotittabie) stands near the site of a
boose for Cluniac nuns, founded, in
the middle of the 12th. cent, by Peter
of Arthington. There are no remains.
The hall was built in the reign of
Charles I. by Cyril Arthington, '< an
ingenious gentleman, well seen in
hydrostatics," says Thoresby. ** for he
conveyed water from the Wharf e to
his house. Nearer Harewood (across
the river) is the site of a moated house
called RottgemotUf once a manor-house
of the Lisles, lords of Harewood in
the ISth cent. The main road winds
round the wooded hill on which Hare-
wood Castle stands, and then enters
the village — ^pleasant, neat, well kept.
The pedestrian should turn off by tne
first road rt., after passing Arthington
Ch., ascend Bawdon Hill, and tiien
take the first fork I., which will
bring him to the village of Low
Weudley (birthplace of John Nichol-
son, the so-called " Airedale poet," in
1790), and thence to an entrance of
Harewood Park, through which he
may walk to the village (where the
keys of the ch. are kept, — on Thurs-
days it is open). Tnis will be a
shorter and pleasanter walk than that
by the high road.
' The manor of Harewood was
granted after the Conquest to the
Romellis, who no doubt erected the
first castle here. It passed from
them through Fitzgeralds and Lisles
to Sir William de Aldburgh, who
became lord of the castle and manor
in 1365, by feoffment of Robert Lord
de Lisle of Rougemont (on the oppo-
site side of the Wharfe). Harewood
afterwards passed to the Gascoignes ;
and the family of Lascelles, who now
possess the estate, obtained it by
purchase about the year 1740.
The ruined Ckutle of Harewood
stands on high ground, but on the
slope of a mound falling towards the
river. This mound is probably pre-
Norraan, and there are traces of large
•ar^bworks £. At the back extends
a fiat open space. The plan was a
quadrangle, with towers at the angles,
and with the main enlarance throogh
a projecting tower on the N. side.
This entrance admililed at once to the
great hall, near the partition wall,
which, on the W. side, separated the
hall from the kitchens, over which
were the solar chamber and othnr
rooms. There are square towers SJE.
and N.E., in which were 4 stories of
rooms. The hall is 54 ft. 9 in. by
29 ft. 3 in. ; and on the S. aide near
the dais is a remarkable recen in the
wall, of watt depth, with a project-
ing shelf, under which runs a grace-
ful leaf-moulding. The foliated
canopy of the recess rests an side-
shafts, and at the back is a slit^open-
ing in the wall. It was no doubt
intended to serve as a permanent sid^
board or beauffet; and it is carious
to find a design which might hare
served for that of a tomb recess so ap-
propriated. The whole is rich Dec.
work. The entrance-tower has the
portcullis grove remaining, and the
portcullis-chamber above. There was
an oratory or chapel above again ; and
outside this tower is seen the motto
of Sir William de Aldburgh, -Vat
sal be sal.** his shield of arms, and
that of Baliol, King of ScotUmd.
Wm. de Aldburgh was *< messenger "
of Edward Balid, 27 Ed. in., and it
was, perhaps, owing to this connec-
tion that the church and village
escaped pillage during the Scottisli
forays of that time. The whole of
the castle seems to be the work d
this Sir Wm. de Aldburgh, who. in
1867, obtained licence to crenellate
the '< mansum manerii ^ of Harewood.
The castle was probably dismantled
during the civil war, since it was
habitable in 1630, but uninhabitable
in 1657, when Sir John Cutler bought
it. Its towers are covered with ivv.
and the sketcher may find work for
his pencil among the picturesqae
ruins.
Harewood Chwreh (ded. to All
Samts) stands in the juirk about
Bauie 29.— -JToretooad House*
377
^ m. £. of the Tillage. It is Perp.,
and was possibly built bj the prior of
Boltoii, to whom it was appropriated
by Lord Lisle in 1358. In 1793
much of the ancient glass and oak
fittings was removed, and the ch. was
"* beautified " in the fashion of that
time. In 1865 it was ''restored,''
and the interior is now in yeiy per-
fect Older. (The pnlpit and font
were given by Mr. Edwm Lascelles.)
The Perp. work of the ch. is fine,
with a lofty arcade (no clerestory),
and piers withoat imposts or caps, bat
having a small bracket at the inter-
sections of the outer mouldings. The
N. and S. aisles have chapeu at the
£. ends, openingto the chancel, with
lofty arches. The chancel is the
same width as the nave, and the pro-
portion throughout is excellent.
The Monuments, however, are far
more interesting than the building
itself. In the £. chapel of the S.
aisle are (1) Sir Richard Bedinayn
and wife; daughter of Sir William
Oascoigne, d. 1540 ; collars of SS—
under the sole of one foot, a hermit
with rosaiy. (2) Sir William (Oas-
coigne and wife ; he in coif and robes,
she with plaited head-dress and coro-
naL This is the famous Chief Justice
of the King's Bench who, in the
reign of Henry IV., is said to have
committed the heir - apparent to
prison for an insult to himself, who
had just sentenced one of the prince's
servants. The striking scene in
Shakespeare's *Hen. IV.* (PL IL
act V. sc. 2) in which Hen. V., after
his accession, reappoints Sir William
as chief justice will occur to eyery
one —
*' Yon did oommlt me;
Fur which, I do commit loto yonr hand
The unrtaln'd sword that you have used to
bear;
Wllh thia remembrMicp,-4hat you use the
With the like hold. Joitt, and ImparlUl spirit
As you liave done 'gnlnst me.**
The truth is, that the young king
did not reappoint Ghiscoigne — a suffi-
ciex^t mark of his resentment. Mr.
Foss C Judges of England*) has
proved that, instead of Gkucoigne,
Sir William Hankfoid was appointed
chief justice March 29, 1413, eight
days after Henry V.'s accession. In
an inscription, moreover, which for-
merly surrounded this altar-tomb
(but which has disappeared). Sir Wil-
liam was recorded as " nuper Capit.
Justic de banco. Hen nuper regis
An^ie quarti'* — ^without reference
to Hen. v., which of course would
not have been the case had he been
also that king's chief justice. (3)
Sir John Nevue, d. 1482, and wife.
His daughter married Sir John Gras-
coigne. Collar of SS., bareheaded.
Wife in wimple covering the chin,
showing that she survived him. (4)
Sir Ridiard Franks and wife, of Al
woodley, bare-headed ; good example
of armour. (5) Under arch into
chancel, Sir William Byther and
wife Sibyl, daughter and co-heiress of
Sir William Aldburgh, d. 1440;
hehnet, collar of SS., gloves notice-
able. Under an arch on the N. side
of the chancel is (6) Sir Bichard
Bedmayn and wife Eliz., daughter
and CO - heiress of Sir W. Ald-
burgh, d. 1442. All these monuments
are in English alabaster, and are
good examples, but without any
special character or beauty. Ail
are somewhat conventional, and may
be the work of one hand. Their
effect is solemn and striking. The
small figures or "weepers** at the
sides of tiie altar-tombs deserve notice.
From the W. door of the ch.
(which is private), there is a pretty
view of JaarevBood Howe (Earl of
Harewood ; open on Thursdays). It
was built by Henry Lascelles, Ist
Baron Harewood, in 1760, from de-
signs by Adam and Carr of York.
This house replaced a mansion known
as Oawthorpe HaU, which stood by'
the side of the lake, about 200 yards
S. of the present house. In Qaw-
tiicrpe Hall the Gascoignes lived
for a considerable time, and the chief
justice was bom there. It afterwiuds
378
BatUe 30. — Leeds to Skipton,
passed to the Wentwoiihs, and the
great Lord Strafford occasionally made
it his home in early life, delighting
mnch (as his letters prove) in the
beauty and retirement of the place.
"Lord!" he writes to Abp. Laud,
Aug. 17, 1636, " with what quietness
in myself could I live here, in com-
parison of that noise and labour I
meet with elsewhere; and I protest
put up more crowns in my purse at
the year's end too ! " Afterwards the
notorious Sir John Cutler bou^t it —
the Cutler of Pope (' Moral Essays,'
ep. iii.) : —
'* Cutler saw tenants break and houses fall;
For verj want he could not build a wall.
His only daughter in a stranger'B power;
For very want he oouU not pay a dower.
A few grey hairs hla reverend temples
crown^
'Twas very want that told them for two
pound.
What e'en denied a oordSal at his end.
Banish'd the docuu*, and expell'd tlie friend ?
What but a want, which you perhaps think
mad.
Yet numbers feel— the want of what he
had!
Cutler and Brutus, dyhig, both excUim,
< Virtue and wealth I what are ye but a
?"
The present Harewood House is
one of those porticoed houses of the
last cent, which are "so thoroughly
English and aristocratic that one is
inclined to overlook their defects of
style in consequence of their respect-
ability and the associations they call
up." — Fergu89(ni, Some alterations
were made in the house by the late
Sir Charles Barry. The interior is
fine and stately, with ceilings painted
by Zacehi, Jtose, and IM)ecci; and
besides, a few good pictures by jB^-
HidldB, Lawrence, Jffoppner, And Jaek-
Bon. The OaUery, a noble apartment
77 ft. by 24, contains a collection of
china, valued at 100,000^. It is for
the most part Sevres, old Dresden,
and Celadon. Finer than anything
in the house, however, is the view
from the terrace. The gardens and
pleasure-grounds are extensive and
yer^ beautiful, and the park, of abont
2000 acres, is well wooded and pic-
turesque. Both grounds and gardens
were originally laid out by " Capa-
bility " Brown, but have since been
much altered and enlarged. Th(*
principal garden, on the S. side of
the house, was designed by Nesfield.
and is wonderfully striking when in
full blaze of colour, with enclosing
*< walls*' of shrubbery and wood.
One of the vineries, 70 ft. by 26 ft.,
is entirely filled by a vine* of the
" Tokay '' species, planted in 178JJ.
and stiil a vigorous bearer. A smn-
mer's day may be spent very agree-
ably at Harewood.
Betuming to Arthington, the next
stat. is
11^ m. Weeton. A little beyond
it Great Almes Cliff is seen l.'(s«»
Rte. 20). Passing
15 m. Pannal Stat,, the train soon
reaches
18 m. from Leeds, Harrogate (see
Rte. 20).
ROUTE 30.
LEEDS TO SKIPTON : A. BY OTLEY
AND ILKLEY (BOLTON PRIORY.
Wf^ARFEDALE).
Rail (Midland) as far as Ilkley.
from Wellington Stat. 10 trains
daily to Bkley: time, 85 min. to
1 hr. To Otley, 6 trains.
From nkley to Skipton ooach road.
BatUe ^O.—OOey : Church.
879
The present Boute is the same as
Bte. 34, as far as
CcdveHey Stat.
Ouitdey Janet. Stat.
Ouiadey^ a large village with some
worsted-nulls, has a ch. with Norm.,
Trans. -Norm., and £. £. portions,
deserving notice. There is also a
pretentious modem town haU. Hence
a line diverges rt to Otley.
OOey Stat, (see bebw).
[Otlev may also he reached from
Leeds hj N. E. BI7., hj Horsforth,
and
ArOUnglon Jmict. Stat, (see Bte.
29).
The view from the Arthington
station up Wharfedale is fine, and the
toaXk to Otley (4 m.), following the
broad stream' of the Wharf e, fringed
with fine trees, veiy pleasant.]
Otley (Jnn : White Horse, in-
different) is still, as in the days of
the poet Gray, ^' a large, airy town,
with clean, but low, rustic buildings.*'
It haa several woollen factories and
paper-mills ; but the Church ^estd.)
alone need detain the tourist. During
the restoration, fragments of a pre-
Norman ch. were found in the Nor-
man walls of the chancel ; and it
was discovered that a foundation-
wall ran directly across the ch. in a
line with the W. walls of the tran-
septs. This may have been the W.
wall of the first ch. Then came a
Norm, building, of which portions
remain. In me Perp. period the
nave was built, and the nave-aisles
were added about 1505. In 1851
the walls of the nave were raised and
a clerestory added, thus making the
chancel-arch seem low. The chan-
cel-walls are Nonn., and one Norm,
window remains. The others are
Perp. The S. door of nave has Trans.-
Norm. shafts and caps. There are some
modem stained-glass windows. At
the end of the nave some fragments
of stone carving, &c., are pkced,
found in the walls during the restora-
tion of 1867. Others of the stones
have interkced knot-work. On one
is a bird, holding a flower in the beak,
and with a tail ending in a dart;
under the bird is a nimbused head
(St. John, with the eagle?). Another
stone has 3 busts, each with a book,
and each under a circ. arch. There
are also some fragments of window
balusters, resembling those found at
Jarsow. All these fragments, from
their early character, are of great
interest.
In the S. transept are some Faiffax
monuments which should be noticed.
The principal is that of Thomas, the
first liord Fairfax of Denton. His
stud there was one of the best in
England. He was the father of Ferdi-
nando Lord Fairfax, and grandfather
of the great Lord, better known as
Sir Thomas" (see Nun Anpletonj
Bte. 2). He died in 1640. His wife.
Helen Aske, had died in 1620, and
the inscription on the tomb may have
been supplied by her husband. 'Under
her figure are the lines —
' Here Lea'a fr vtfvloea, here Rachel's bevty
Here lyeth Bebeocft's fath, here Sarah's
duty."
" The figures," wrote Gray, ** are not
ill-cut, particularly his, in armour,
but bare-headed." '
There is another Fairfax monument
(but not certainly appropriated) on
the wall; and the tamb-skb of
another has been brought here from
the nave.
In the chancel is an elaborate
modem monument for Walter Fawkes
of Famley, d. 1825, the friend and
patron of Turner: and below it a
curious shrouded figure for William
Vavasour of Stead, near Ben Bhyd-
ding. There is ^iso a tomb, said to
be that of a Dinely, whose family
held lands here and at Bramham';
but one of them coming to Otley
church on Easter Day, would not
kneel to receive the Sacrament, left
the church, and built his own at
Bramham, which, it is said, is still
880
Baute 30.— Farnley Hall.
imcoQjSecraied. In the ch. is a me- 1
morial of 54 lAboorers who perished
during the excavation of the Bram-
hope tunnel.
The Mafwr Soutet a modem build*
ing, occupies the site of a palace of
the Archoishops of York, who were
lords of Otle^.
Overhanging the town, S., is the
long hiU of Otley Chevin (pron.
»* ShcYin," or •* Shiven." It is ner-
haps the Brit. Cefn, a back or ridg|e.
The Cheviots, and Chevening in
Kent, have been referred to as from
the same word, though doubtfuUj).
The highest point near the W. end is
025 ft. above the sea, and commands
a magnificent view. York Minster
80 m. distant, is easily distinguished
in clear weather. Southward the
smoke of Leeds, and of all the manu-
facturing district towards Halifax,
clouds the sky; but towards the N.
and N.E. a vast extent of rich
countiy lies mapped out below the
spectator, with the Wharfe winding
through its broad green vale. The
view from Otley Chevin is an excel-
lent introduction to the picturesque
scenery of Upper Wharfedale.
rii m. N. of Otley, is Farnley
Hattj the seat of Ayscough Fawkes,
Esq., who has here a very fine collec-
tion of pictures, including some of
the most admirable works of /. M. W.
Turner, The uncle of the present
proprietor was one of Turner's earliest
and best patrons ; and the artist was
for some time in the habit of working
on water-colour drawings for Mr.
Fawkes whenever he had spare time
and opportunity. He was a constant
visitor at Farnley, and to this con-
nection we are indebted for most of
the wonderful drawings by which the
great artist has illustrated Wharfe-
dale and the N.W. of Yorkshire.
"The scenery," writes Mr. Buskin,
"whose influence I can trace most
definitely thronehont his works, varied
as thev are, is that of Yorkshire. . . .
Qis nrst conceptiona of qiou^tain
scenery seem to have been taken from
Yorkshire, and its rounded hiUs,
far-winding rivers, and broken Ibne-
stone scars to have formed a type in
his mind to which he sought, *60 far
as might be obtained, some conv-
>ondmg imagery in other landseape&
^ence he almost always preferred to
have a precipice low down upon the
hill-side, ratner than near the top:
liked an extent of ronnded sk>pe
above, and the vertical cliff to wat^
and valley better than the slope at
the bottom and the wall at the top :
and had his attention early directed
to those horizontal or c<»npanitively
horizontal beds of rock which iKoallv
form the face of the precipices in the
Yorkshire dales, not, as in the Matter-
horn, merely indicated by veined
colouring on the surface of the
smooth cliff, but projecting or moul-
dering away in definite succession of
ledges, cornices, and steps.'* — Modem
Painten.
Farnley Hall and its treasures can
only be seen by special permiasion of
the owner. After passmg a bridge
over the Wharfe, near which is a
weir, the lodge is reached, and a drive
of perhaps a mile through woods leads
to the house. The womls are notice-
able for many spruce firs of great
size. The house is partly Elizabethan,
but the older parts are concealed by a
modem house built by Carr of York.
It stands on high ground, and com-
mands fine views of Wharf edale and
the Chevin. The drawing-room was
painted by Le Brun. In the aahnn
are arranged about 50 drawings by
Twmer, some of them of consider-
able size. Remark, especially, Scar-
borough ; the Strid at BoltoQ^ venr
fine, witii a distance of extreme
beauty, and a grand rush of water
in the foreground ; the Pass oi Mt.
Cenis, with a snow-storm. — Toner
was himself present at the accident
represented, when the horses of the
diligence turned round, close to the
precipice ; at Putney Bridge, figures,
very grand ; the Devil's Bridge, Mt
Souie SO.-'Famley HdOr-LeaiUey Ohurch. 881
be noticed as an example of his won-
derful versatility.
In a portfolio are preserved sonic
very interesting drawings of birdii,
made by Turner during his visits to
Famley. An owl and a turkev arc
especially excellent, and in all, the
wild expression is admirably caught
without any *'' semi-human " addition.
In small cases are some drawings by
Turner for illustrating a set of poets
—those for Sir Walter Scott the best.
The extreme power and versatility of
the artist, and his sharp insight into
the character of a scene (remark the
waterwom rocks, the hollows and
linings, of the Strid drawing), are
nowhere more strongly shown than at
Famley. The Turner drawings have
been excellently photographed by the
Messrs. Caldesi.
In the hall, with a good old
chimney-piece of carved oak, are
one or two pictures by SnyderSf set
in the panel. Here too are arranged
Oliver Cromwell's hat, worn at Mat-
ston Moor, with his watch and sword ;
the swords of Ireton and Fairfax (the
latter straight, with a basket-hilt in-
laid with silver) ; a chair which
belonged to Fairfax ; a drinking-horn
manufactured from his shoe ; and the
matrix of a seal, cut by order of the
CJommonwealth " for the approval of
ministers" (this 'seal was formerly
preserved at Browseholm, in Bibbles-
dale, see Bte. 33). The curious gate-
way, leading to the garden, was
brou^t from Menston, the seat of
CoL Fairfax. Half a mile higher up
is the Chapel, a fragment which re-
tains only a chancel, dating from the
18th centy.
Leaihiey Cimrch, close without
Famley Park, has a very early Norm,
tower; massive and high in propor-
tion to its area, built of rubble with
wrought coigns. The rest of the ch.
is late Ferp. In the valley of the
Washburn, which here descends to
loin the Wharfe, large reservoirs
nave been formed for the water-sup-
ply of Leeds. The little ch. of Stain-
St. 6othard ; and a finer companion,
a grand Swiss waterfall; Lancaster
Sands, very fine ; a remarkable sketch
of a man-of-war, drawn, between
breakfast and luneheon, at Famley,
at the request of Mr. Fawkes ; View
of Wharf edale, from Otley Chevin;
some Views of Famley; the High
Force; Fountains; l>esides many
early pictures, one marked 1804. But
every one of these drawings will re-
pay the most careful attention, and it
is difficult, when all are so fine, to
make any selections. In the Library
is a very grand picture, attributed to
VelaaqueZf and representing the Mag-
dalene at the foot of the Gross — a
picture alone worth a long pilgrimage
to see. Here also are — the Grecian
daughter, i2t<!)efi< (on panel) ; a Holy
Family, by Sir Joshua BeynMs
(painted in Italy) ; and a portrait of
Lord Gottington, by Janssens, The
Drawing - room^ among other good
pictures, contains the following oil
pictures by Turner: — ^the Pilot-boat;
a Calm ; a Fresh Gale ; the Lake oi
Geneva; the * Victory,' with the body
of Nelson on board ; and, grandest of
all, the Haven of DorL This last is
a large picture ; a ship in foreground,
with boats approachmg and depart-
ing. The light, the air, the move-
ment, in this picture are marvellous.
It is Turner at his very best. The
PHal-boat is hardly less striking.
The pilot, standing up in his boat, is
waving a farewell to the ship he has
left, in which sailors are busy. A
burst of light from a fine, broken
sky falls on the sails of the vessel.
The Victory is grand, with an inky
sea reflecting the black clouds only
half-seen alwve. In this room are
also a full-length of the Duchess of
Areikiberg by Vandyck^ very fine
(the companion portrait of the Duke
is at Holkham) ; a Mignard portrait
of a young lady ; a good Greuze ;
and an uimnished portrait by Sir
Joshua. A curious picture by Turner,
fuU of fine colour — Bmbrandt's
Daughter reading a Letter — should
882
Bouie 30.—Itkley.
huntj 2 in. NJE., has some Nonii.
portions, and a picturesque bell>
gable.]
The Midland Rly. proceeds from
Otlev to nUej, on the rt. bank
of the river. ** FAordoZe,— for,"
writes the poet Gray, ** so they
call the vale of Wharfe, and a beau-
tiful "iTile it is, — is well-wooded,
well-cultivated, and well-inhabited,
but with high crags at distance, that
border the green country on either
hand ; through the midst of it, deep,
clear, full to the brink, and of no
inconsiderable breadth, runs in long
windings the river."
JBurley Stat. A village with large
worsted-mills, and an u^ly modem
ch. Nearly opposite, on uie rt. bank
of the Wharfe, is Weston HaU, long
the seat of the Vavasours, and still
possessed by their representative in
the female line. It is a good example
of a considerable Yorkshire propne-
tor's house, temp. Jas. I. Besides an
original portrait of Cromwell, a great
collection of Vavasour papers is pre-
served here, beginning with a grant
of free-warren, temp. Hen. III. In
the garden is an unusual relic — ^a
^^ casino,*^ or pleasure - house of 3
stages, with an upper turret. It is
of the same date as the mansion.
1} m. beyond Burley, across the
river, is seen Denton Park^ a modem
house by Carr of York, occupying the
site of the ancient hall of tne Fair-
faxes, who became possessed of Den-
ton about 1515, by the marriage of
Sir William Fairfax \o the heiress of
John Thwaites. Thomas Lord Fair-
fax (created Baron of Cameron for
his bravery before Bouen in 1605)
lived and died here. His son, Fer-
dinando, and his grandson, the fa-
mous Sir Thomas of the Parliament,
were both bom at Denton, and Ed-
ward Fairfax, the earliest and best
translator of Tasso, was born here
about 1570 — ^the natural son of an
earlier Sir Thomas Fairfax, who was
present with the Constable Bourbon
at the sacking of Borne in 1577
(Edvt'ard Fairfax lived afterwards at
FeiDston, in the valley of the Wash-
bum, at the back of Denton). Prince
Bupert, on his way to Marston Moor,
lodged in the old house, and, finding
in it a portrait of John Fairfax
(younffer brother of Lord Fairfax),
who had fallen at the siege of
Frankenthal in the Palatinate, spared,
for his sake, the home of the great
Puritan leaders. The estate of Den-
ton was purchased from the Fair-
faxes by the Ibbetson family, wcalthr
clothiers of Leeds ; one of whom, in
1745, raised a troop in defence of the
Crown, and was rewarded with a
baronetcy.
Ben EJiydding Stat, (see pofi^,
and the rly. soon reaches its terminus
at
IVdey Stat, (terminus).
Bold : the CrNoent* best and reuonable ;
boaid and living In public room«, dlJ3$jtk week;
the Middleton H. ; Royal H. MjfdropcUkic
£8tablUkment$—\heB0 are at some little dls>
taooe firom ilkley, on the side of the moor,
see jxut — Ben Khyddiog; IlUey Wells
House (at these, board and lodging fbr each
visitor, not a patient, is 3l. a week). Graig-
lands and Troutbeck are cheaper. At all,
visitors are received who are not patients.
(A dlffereat chanp is made for them.) All
have a table>d'h&e and public rooms. All
the "Establidhments" stand pleasantly and
command fine views; see further, post.
There are many private lodgings la the
village.
Carriages of all sorts may be hired at the
rly. sUt. or at the Hotels. Tickets for
fishing in the Wharfe to be had at the
Greaoent, 2«.. ed. a day. Ukley is much used
as a place of winter resort by the inhabitants
of Bradford and other large mannfactoring
towns.
Ukley, the Malvern of the North,
stands very pleasantly on the S. bank
of the Wharfe, at the base of Bum-
bald's Moor. It derives its import-
ance wholly from the water-cure
establishments which have been
established in its immediate neigh-
bourhood. These are large and well-
conducted, and a£ford most pleasBnt
Saule BO.— Bkl^f—B&n Shydding.
resting-places to all who desire to
explore this p<»rtion of Whiuf edale.
The open moon at the back, with
their broken rocks and low cUffs of
millstone grit, are easily accessible
and command fine views. Bolton
Abbey, Skipton, Settle, Malham Cove,
and Qordale can be visited from here,
and altogether Ilklev will prove a
very convenient centre for the tourist
Dkley is without doubt the «01i-
cana,^ ranked by Ptolemy among the
** cities " of the Brigantes. It is not
mentioned in the Antonine Itineraries
or in the Notitia. On the site, or in
the inunediate ne^hbourhood of the
British town, the Roman fortress was
constructed, the foundations of which
are still traceable, W. and N., between
the Wharfe and a brook which falls
into it. The enclosure, a steeply scarped
platean, commanding, and only just
raised above, a long reach of the
beautiful river, formed a square of
about 160 by 100 yards. The exist-
ing parish ch. stands within it ; and,
in a field at the back, a fragment of
the Boman wall is visible above the
sward. Boman relics — ^brick, glass,
pottenr — are constantly found nere,
and Camden has preserved some in-
scriptions discoveied at Bkley, one of
which records the rebuilding either of
the town or of some important edifice
in it, in the days of Severus and An-
toninns (CaracaUa) ; and another is
the dedication of an altar to ** Ver-
beia," the genius of the Wharfe —
** Verbeie sacmm Clodius Fronto
Pr«f. Coh. n. Lingon.'' This altar
is still preserved at Middleton Lodge
(on the hill side above the river, oppo-
site Bkley), but the inscription has
become illegible. '*Verbeia" is no
doubt the Latinized form of the
British river name, which became
" Guerf " or Wharfe under the Saxons.
Boman roads have been partly traced,
leading to Bkley from Calcana (Tad-
caster), from Ifurium (Aldborough),
and Q)robably) from Cocceium (Rib-
chester in Lancashire). Heaps of
Boman scoriie (dross Irom smelting
works) have existed near Ilkley, but
have been nearly all carted away to
make roads. At Eldwick, on the
S. side of Rumbald's Moor, toward
Bingley, there are similar remains.
Iron seems to have been the metal
smelted here, as in other parts of the
N. Biding.
Ilkley was long famous for its
springs of clear cold water, and was
frequented during the summer by
many Yorkshire families, before 1843,
in which year the land on which Beti
Mhydding stands (the name is a cor-
ruption of Bean ridding, «'.«. clearing,
belonging to the field in which the
house was built) was purchased by a
Company with a view to the erection
of a building in which the "water-
cure " system might be properly car-
ried out. The house of Ben Khydding
was completed in 1814 (it has since
been greatly enlarged), and at once
proved a success. It stands about
1} m. E. of the village, on high
ground, commanding very fine views,
and is surrounded by extensive
grounds, opening on the moor at the
back, dose under the " Cow and Calf
rocks.'* lUdey Welis House was built
about 10 years afterwards (architect,
Cuthbert Brodrick). Dr. G. Badford
is the manager, and Dr. J. F. Little is
the resident physician at Ben Bhyd-
ding; Dr. Leeson at Ilkley Wells.
Ben Bhydding is a castellated build-
ing ; Ilkley Welk is in the style of
an Italian palace. Both are of im-
posing elevation. The arrangements
are good and very comfortaMe ; but
visitors who are not patients must
accept the simple but excellent table
necessary in such an establishment.
Each establishment contains Turkish
baths, bowling-alleys, &c., and each
has a regular tariff of charges for
both patients and visitors.
There are other Hydropathic Esta-
blishments— Craiglands, Troutbeck,
and Bockwood.
Ilkley Churdh for the most part
early Dec., has been restored, to the
confusion of the antiquary, who has
384
BofUe dO.^lUdey Churdhr—BumbaU^s Moor.
no means of distinguishing old work
froni new. The chancel is entirdy
new, and contains a pictorial east
window (the Crncifixion) by War-
rington. At the W. end of the N.
nave aisle is a cnrioos pew of carved
oak (date 1638), with an open balus-
trade in front In the S. aisle is the
cross-legged effi^ of Sir Adam de
Midelton (temp. Cidw. II.). He wears
the long cjclas open in front, and
projecting from his poleyns or knee-
plates are small shields. (The effigy
has always been assigned to Adam
de Midelton, but the armour seems
earlier than Edw. II.— perhaps circ
1280.) The family of Midelton were
settled at Middleton, a township with
a few cottages opposite Hkley, from
a ver^ early perioa, and are now the
principal owners here. (Their resi-
dence is Middlet4m Lodae.) In the
base of the Tower TN. side) is a frag-
ment of Roman scuptare ; and in the
churchyard (fronting the road) are 8
remarluible Sculptured Crosses {the
cross itself, perhaps of metal, may
have been fixed on the top) ; ^ things
antiquistinU operisy'^ says Leland,
"and monuments of some notable
men buried there." These are up-
right pillars (the tallest 8 ft. high),
rudely sculptured with scrolls, ani-
mals, birds, and the human figure.
They no doubt date from a period
before the Conquest, and deserve
more careful preservation from the
effects of time and weather than they
have hitherto received. The sculp-
ture resembles that in the fragments
in Otley Ch. (see (uUe) ; and there
are crosses of similar character in
the ch.-yd. at Whalley on the York-
shire border (Rte. 83).
The Oonvaleteent Home, built by
Mr. Simon, a Bradford merchant, for
65 patients, is managed by the Cor-
poration ol Bradford.
Very pleasant toaOcs may be taken
in all du-eetions from Dkley. Over-
hanging Ben Rhydding are the *^Cow
and Calf Boelts,^ a fine and most
picturesque " edge " cf millstone grit,
commanding a magnificent view of
Wharf edale. fThe rock is tiie same
of which Brimnam Crags and Great
Almes Cliff are composed. See Rte 2 1 .)
On the face of the " Cow"" is a mark
called the " Foot of Giant Rnmbold."
who, in stepping across from Great
Almes Clin, missed his hold, and
stamped the face of the rock instead
of the summit. The rocks are covered
on the top with names and inscrip-
tions, which vulgarize but cannot
spoil them. The view from them is
fine, extending to Barden Moors and
the hills near Settle. Near them are
some quarries, which show the soft
millstone grit as it is first raised. It
blackens with exposure, giving a
peculiar darkness to the blocks scat-
tered among the fern and heather of
the moors. The so-called ^ Pano-
rama'^ Bock, some distance beyond
Ilkley Wells house, commands a wide
view of the hills N. of Bolton and
Skipt<»i. Above Panorama Rock, and
a little W. of it, is a stone corered
with the cup and ring marks which
have been found in such numbers in
Northumberland and in Scotland.
Rumbaid's Moor (the highest point
1823 ft.) is well worth climbing.
Ingleborough and Whemside are seen
from it; northward, Brimham Rocks
and How Hill, over Fountains Abbey ;
the great plain of Yoik, and York
Minster itself, £., with the Wolds
beyond; S.E., part of Leeds, and,
more S., Bradford are visible. Rum-
bald's (generally called Romell's or
Rumble*s) Moor was so named, appa-
rentlv, from William de Romille, the
first Norman lord of Skipton. It ex-
tends almost uninterruptedly to that
place. There is a British mtrench-
ment on the side of the moor, about
2 m. S.E. of Ilkley, and many bar-
rows. The walk or drive from Ilkley
to Keiffhley (Rte. 84), across Rum-
bald's Moor, is about 7 m., and is
pleasant, with fine views.
Other walks may be, to JEToQia
JJott, on the Skipton Road (1} m.),
the old house of the Hebers ; the Bp.
Baute dO.SolUm Priory.
of Calcutta belonged to a branch of
this family. It is now a rather pic-
tnresque farmhouse, with gabled end
and nmllioned windows. A gate
nearly opposite opens to a "gill,"
throagh which descends a *<beck,"
which the pedestrian may follow to
Riimbald*s Moor. The scene through-
out is pleasing, and on the moor the
beck becomes wild and broken. De-
scend on Hkley by the Keighley road.
The 80-called Fairy DeU, 3 m. from
Ilkley, above the hamlet of Middle-
ton, is a narrow wooded glen, with
a profusion of wild flowers, and is
worth a visit. The Black Fors^ a
waterfall in Langber Gill (3 m.^ is
picturesque.
Ilkley to SkiptoH,
The rly. does not go beyond Hk-
ley. The direct road to Skipton is
9'm. ; but tourists who intend to
visit Bolton PriOTy, and the beautiful
scenery on the Wharfe between the
Prioiy and Barden Tower, should pro-
ceed to Ilkley Bridge, where there
are two roads, each l^ing to Bolton.
The main road is on the same side of
the river as the hotel, the other
across the bridge. The latter keeps
nearer to the river, and follows its
windings, but is muddy in wet wea-
ther, and rather longer. It is well to
go by one and return by the other,
and tiiis should be made a matter of
bargain with the driver before starting.
The distance to the Priorv is 6 m.
from Ilkley. Addinaham uhurch, on
the main road to Skipton, 1. of road
to Bolton Abbey, and 2 m. from
Ilkley, is for the most part Perp., but
has a Norm, chancel arch. The Perp.,
on a very small scale, resembles that
of Harewood (Rte. 29), and, like that,
was the work of the Bolton monks, to
whom the ch. belonged. The road
from Addingham follows the valley
of the WhaSe, and the scenery soon
becomes very striking. Left is Far-
)i«WHoZZ(J.C.Kay,E8q.). Beams-
ley Beacon (the old name is Howber
[ITorteWre.]
885
Hill — it is 4 m. from Ilkley) — a lofty
hill (1314 ft.), the form of which
wiU at once recall many of Turner's
Wharfedale drawings — is conspicuous
rt More distant, in front, is Simon
Seat (1593 ft) (see post), with the
upper part of Bolton Park. From
tne top of Lobwith Hill a view is
obtained of the Priory ruins by the
river-side. (A road, rt., over Bolton
Bridge, leads to Beamsley, where is
an hospital for old women, founded,
temp. Eliz., by Margaret Clifford,
(yountess of Cumberland. The old
portion of the building was circular,
and the rooms of the mother and
sisters could only be approached
through the chapel. Modem build-
ings have been added.)
The Devonshire Arms Hotel, rt, is
a good Inn, usually charging hotel
prices, and often full in season, but
proprietor finds rooms in the neigh-
bourhood when this is the case. It
may be used for a day or two as a
resting-place by those who desire to
explore the Bolton scenery at leisure.
But the visitor who desires to make
himself really acquainted with this
country should establish himself in one
of the farm-houses of the neighbour-
hood, many of which take lodgers.
About ^ a mile beyond the Devon-
shire Arms are the houses of the
guides to the Priory and to the
woods.
The first view of BcUon Priory
is scarcely less interesting or impres-
sive than that fint obtained of Rie-
vaulx or of Fountains. Whitaker
compares the situation, with some
justice, to that of Tintem ; but even
Tintem has less of the ddicious
seclusion and repose which are the
great characteristics of Bolton. The
ruins stand on a patch of open groond,
round which the Wharfe curves after
emerging from the narrow wooded
glen between the Abbey and Barden
Tower. Much wood — chiefly laree
oak and ash -trees— clusters about the
ruins and the river bank ; and across
2o
386
the Wharf e, immediately opposite the
ch., rises a steep rock, painted hy
Turner; in Whitaker's words, "of
the richest purple." Downward, the
stream is bordered hj quiet sreen
meadows. At the back tne yalley is
grandly doeed by the hills of Simon
Seat and Baiden Fell.
In 1120 (nine years before the first
Cistercian house was established in
Yorkshire) William de Meschines and
his wife Cecilia de Bomille founded
a priory for Augustinian Canons at
Embsay, 2 m. N. of Skipton. 33
years afterwards the canons were
removed to Bolton by William Fitz
Duncan and his wife, another Cecilia
de Bomill^, the only child and heiress
of the founders of tne house at Emb-
say. The only child and heir of
William FitzDuncan and the second
Cecilia was the " boy of Egremond ^
(so named^ suggests Whitdcer, from
one of his grandfather's baronies,
where he was probably born), whose
unhappy fate, accordingto the local
tradition recorded in Wordsworth's
well-known poem, was the cause of
the removal of the Priory to Bolton.
Leading a hound in a leash, he at-
tempted to spring across the " Strid,''
in 6arden Wo(^ (see poft); but
the dog hung back, and the boy
was dragged into the stream and
drowned : —
** Now there Is sailneas in the vole.
And deep, nnspeakiDg sorrow ;
Wharfe shall be to pitying hearts
A name more sad than Yarrow."
The forester, who had witnessed the
boy'S fate, met his mistress with the
words, " What is good for a bootless
bene ? ** (?.e. a hopeless prayer) —
•< And she made answer, 'Endless sorrow/
For she knew thai her son was dead.
Long, long in the darkness did she sit.
And her first words—* Let there be
In Bolton, on the field of Wharfe, '
V A stately Priory.'
I The stately Priory was reared ;
And Wharfe, as be moved along,
To matins Joined a moomftil Toioe,
Nor failed at even-eoDg."
B<mte SO.— Bolton Priory.
It is cruel to question a tradition
round which such associations hare
gathered; but the fact is, that the
'^boy of Egremond" is himself a
witness to the charter by which Ce-
cilia de Bomille granted Bolton to
the canons id exchange for their
manors of Skibdun and Stretton ; and
we can only suppose either that the
first house at Emosay may have been
founded after the death, possibly by
drowning in the Wharfe, of one of
the sons of the first Cecilia de Bo-
mille (she had two, both of whom
certainly died young), — or that the
"boy of Egremond" was drowned
after the grant of Bolton, and that
the canons made his death a pretext
for changing the site of their house
to their lately acquired possession.
The establishment at Bolton con-
sisted of a prior and about 15
canons; more than 200 persons al-
together (servants, lay-brethren, &c.)
being supported here. (Whitaker,
HuL of Craven,) The most im-
portant events in the history of the
house were the frequent spoliations
of "land and gear by the Scots,
between the years 131*6 and 1321.
In 1316 the Prior fled into Lanca-
shire, and many of the canons took
refuge in Skipton Castle, whither
they drove some of their cisittle. In
1320 they were again obliged to dis-
perse, and the " moveables from the
rriory were conveyed to Skipton.
Prior de L^d (1275-1330), who wit-
nessed all these calamities, had him-
self built the Prior's Lodgings and
Chapel ; and in the course of his long
priorate entertained at Bolton two
Abps., Greenfield and Melton, made
two journeys to Borne, and attended
3 Parliaments. At the surrender of
the house in 1539 its annual rental
was 298L 15«. Hid. In 1542 the
site and demesnes were sold to Hennr
CUfford, 1st Earl of Cumberland, fur
24902. From the last Earl of Cum-
berland it passed, with his dau^ter
and heiress, to the 2nd Earl of Gorki
and thence by descent to William
Route SQ.—Sokon Prtary.
887
Duke of DevouBhire, whose repre-
sentatiye still possesses it.
The chief relic of the Priory is the
Church, the nave of which, after the
Dissolution, was retained as the chapel
of the so-called " Saxon Cure,** (T4is
Saxon Cure seems to represent a
certain part of the ancient honour
of Bolton or "Botitune" (A.S. bod,
a hall, — the hall town), which had
belonged to Earl Edwin before the
Conquest.
The nave is perfect, but the
rest of the ch. is in complete ruin.
The lower walls of the choir are
Trans. -Norm. The upper walls and
windows (the tracery of which is
destroyed) are Dec. The nave is
E. £. and Dec. The original west
front remains within an elaborate
Perp. front of excellent design, in-
tended as the base of a western
tower, which was never finished. It
was the work of the last Prior,
Richard Moyne or Moon (Inst. 1513),
whose inscription remains on the
cornice of the tabernacle work below
the window. " In the ver of our lord
Mvcxx. R. ^ " (the haff-moon is the
Prior's rebus) ** begaun thes f ondacoon
on qwho sowl God have marce.
Amen.'* In the spandrils above the
portal are the arms of Clifford and of
the Priory (g. a cross patonee), and
on the sett-off of the buttresses are,
on the S. side, a figure which may
possibly represent a pilgrim ; on the
others seated dogs. (Prior Moon was
master forester to the Cliffords ; and
Whitaker suggests that the dogs may
indicate this office.) It is said that
long after the Dissolution the crane
which had been used in building this
tower remained fixed in its place, and
that the people of the district could
not be persuaded but that the canons
would return to their ancient home
to complete the work.
The nave (which has been restored
by the Duke of Devonshire, under the
direction of Crac^) — ^the
■* One protected part
In the ehattflr'd ftbrio^s beMrt"^
is E. E. on the S. side and Dec. on
the N. The windows on the S. side,
with a wall passage along the base of
the lights, desen-e notice. (The glass
in them is modem, by Grace,) The
triforium, or wall -passage, communi-
cated with the dormitory of the
canons. The windows on this side
are high in the wall, in order to give
room for the cloister which extended
without. There is no S. aisle. The
N. aisle is divided from the nave by
piers alternately cylindrical and octa-
gonal. There is a clerestory of plain
lancets, and the aisle windows, re-
taining some fragments of liJth-
centy. glass, are Dec. The roof, of
flat oak work, was probably the work
of Prior Moon, and was "painted,
like most of the roofs in Craven
about that time, with broad lines of
minium."— TF7i*Yafter. Unfortunately
it has been renewed, and not accord-
ing to the ancient design. The plain
wall which closes the E. end has
been replaced by a handsome rercdoe,
the old Boodicreen repaired and
placed at the W. end, the area filled
with open oak seats, all at the Duke's
charge ; and the stojie pulpit, lectern
and font, are his gifts.
At the end of the nave aisle, en-
closed by a Perp. screen, is a chantry
founded by the Mauleverers, and
below it the vault in which, accord-
ing to tradition, the Claphams of
Bearasley, and their ancestors the
Mauleverers, were interred upright : —
•^ P»88, pass who will yon chantry door,
And through Uic chiuk in the ftactiinnl floor
liook down, and see a griesly sight ;
A vault where the bodies ore buried
upright I
There face by face and hand by liand
The Claphams and Mauleverers stand;
And in his place among son and sire
Is John deClaphom, that tierce Esquire,
A valiant roan and a name of dread
Jn the ruUiless wars of the White and Red :
Who dragg'd Earl Pembroke from Banbury
church.
And smote off his head on the stones of the
porch."— While Doe (ffH^tonfi, I.
Whitaker, however, could never see
this *<griesly sight" through the
2o2
S88
Boule SO.— Bolton Hall.
chink; and it is perhaps altogether
traditional.
Leaving the nave, the ruined por-
tion of the ch. is entirely Dec, with
the exception of the lower walls of
the choir. The transepts had eastern
aisles. The N. transept is nearly
perfect ; the S. retains onlyits west-
ern wall, in which are 2 Dec. win-
dows. In this transept is the tomb-
slab, with incised figure, of Christopher
Wood, 18th prior, who resigned in
1488. The piers of a central tower
remain; but at what period it was
destroyed, or if it was ever completed,
is uncertain, although Wordsworth
has made
** From Bolton's old moMstlc tower
Tbe bellfl ring oat. with gladsome power."
The choir is long and aisleless, and
is lighted on either side b^ 5 3-li^ht
windows, only one of which retains
its Dec. ^acery. Some fragments of
tracery remain in the E. window,
which was a very fine one. Below
the windows runs a Trans. -Norm,
arcade. In the N. wall is an arched
recess, either for the Easter sepul-
chre, or an actual tomb. Some por-
tions of tomb-slabs remain in the
choir, one of which is thought to have
commemorated John de Clisord, killed
at Meaux in the 10th year of Henry V.
A very beautiful view, looking across
the choir, through its S. door, should
bo especially noticed. On the 8. side
of the choir were 2 chapels, extending
to about half its length. One of these
was beyond doubt the ** resting-place "
of the Lords of Skipton and patrons
of Bolton.
Of the conventual huUdinaB the
remains are too scanty to be of much
interest As usual, the cloister court
was on the S. side of the nave, and
round it were ranged — W. the dor-
mitory, S. the refectory, and E. the
chapter-house and prior*s lodgmgs.
There was a second and larger court
beyond this, in which were various
offices. An arch remains, once open-
ing to the vestibule of the chapter<
house— (it makes an admirable frame
to the picture seen through it on
either side)— and the parsonage occu-
pies the site of the monastic kitchens.
The Churchyd. lies on the N. side
of the ruins. This has been mad<?
classic ground by Wordsworth^s poeni.
in which he has preserved a tradi-
tion that, not long after the Dissolu-
tion, a white doe "made a weekly
pilgrimage from Rylstone over the
fells of Bolton, and was constantlj
found in the churchyd. during divine
service, at the close of which she
returned home as regularly as the
rest of the congregation."— IIT^ftelrfr.
The connection of the doe with the
Nortons of Rylstone is due entirely to
the poet, whose verse has given a fresh
interest to even Bolton.
The Priory Bara, with some curi-
ous timber work, is still used, and is
worUi a visit
Bdton HaU, the Duke of Devon-
shire's house, which stands a short
distance W. of the ch., is entirely
modem, with the exception of the
central portion, which was the gate-
house of the priory. The hall, wnich
has been formed out of the ancient
archway, is represented in Landseer s
well-known picture. The house is
sometimes shown, and contams a few
pictures and portraits of some in-
terest, the principal being— the Ccb-
ham family, on canvas, a repetition of
the panel picture at Longleat It
is dated 1567, and represents Wni.
Brooke, Lord Cobham, d. 1596, and
his second wife Frances Newton, with
Johanna her sister, standing behind
a table, round which 6 children are
seated. The child numbered 6 is the
son who died so miserably in the
reign of James I. This picture is
attributed to Luca» de Heere ; George
Calvert, Ist Lord Baltimore^ bust, in
falling frill ; Henry Clifford, 5th and
last Eafi of Cmnbertandf in armour;
Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset,
Pembroke, and Montgomery, in ad-
[vanced life, dated 1672,— « striking
Boute 30.— The Sirid.
889
picture ; Richard Earl of Burlington
(the architect), to the waist, hat
under arm; Lord Charle$ Cliford^
eldest brother of the 2nd Earl of
Burlington, died jroung in 1675, full
length, in richly leweUed dress, as a
hunter with two dogs and a iayelin. —
Xe2jf, who painted num^ of the youth-
ful nobility with dogs, m this fanciful
hunting costume. This is the por-
trait said to represent the ^Boy of
Egremont," a notion which has arisen
from its accessories.
The woods and walks of Bolton are
freely open, except on Sunday. The
sceneiy between the priory and Bar-
den tower, where the Wharfe, for a
distance of about 2 m., runs through
a deep-wooded ravine, is of the
** finest and most rememberable "
character. The walks and drives
through the woods were for the most
part arranged, early in the present
century-, bv the Bev. William Carr,
who, in Wordsworth's words, **has
worked with an invisible hand of art
in the very spirit of nature.** These
walks are indeed so numerous that
(especially if the visitor's time be
short) it will be better for him to be
accompanied by a guide. A carriage-
road ascends the rt bank of uie
river as high as the ''Strid"* (the
favourite spot for picnics, much
thronged in the season, and therefore
noi that which the visitor should
inake his own resting-olace) ; beyond,
footoaths wind throus^ the woods up
to Barden Tower. (There is also a
road on the 1. bank of the Wharfe,
which may be gained by steppinff-
stones across the river near the £.
end of the church. Carriages cross
further down.)
[Across the river, and climbing
the side of Bimon Seat (1593 ft), is
Bolton Park, the ancient deer-parit
of the Cliifords, still marked bv its
venerable oaks, and still the home
of numerous red-deer, descendants of
the old stock. From Simon Seat,
above it, there is a magnificent view
in clear weather, embracing, it it
saidj York and Ripon Minsters, and
Boseberrv Topping beyond the Cleve-
land Hills. There is a very fine fore-
ground toward Appletrewick. Sunon
Seat (the name no doubt is that of
the Northern hero, Sigmund, found
elsewhere on boundary ridges — see
Rte. 14) may be reached either
through Bolton Park or from Barden.
The ktter is the easier route. Its
sunmiit is of millstone-grit. (You
may reach Simon Seat from Park
Gate Seat, in Bolton Woods, over-
hanging the river, as follows. Go
down from Park Gkte Seat to a
stream and bridge; cross and pro-
ceed up the so-culed ** VaUey ofDe-
iolaUon " (up the stream) to a water-
fall about 50 ft. high; there is a
second fall of SO ft; and this walk up
the stream is worth taking. A little
below the second fall, 1., turn off and
get over a fence, beyond which an old
cart-track will be seen, and must be
followed upwards for } m. to a gate
opening on the moor. A rough
track on the moor leads to a be&,
which must be crossed, and then a
well-defined footpath climbs to the
top of Simon Seat)]
The scene at the Strid (cerkinly
not so named from its being possible
to itride across it, but from the A.-S.
Uryth^twrmoil, tumult) is exceed-
ingly fine, especially after rain. The
river is here hemmed in between
ledges of rock, and roars below like
an angry "Kuhlebom." The story
of the l)oy of Egremont has already
been quc^oned; but we may be-
lieve, if we choose, that some life
dear to the founders of Embsay or of
Bolton was lost at this place. The
scene is in great favour with artists
— who would find subjects far less
well known, and of extreme beauty,
in different parts of the woods, and in
Upper Wharfedale— and a beautiful
dnwing of the Strid by Turner (see
ante) is preserved among the trea-
sures of Famle^ Hall. The woods
890
Bouie SO.-^Barden Tower.
here are for the most part of oak and
ash. The absence of holly and birch
is very- marked, especially when the
scene is compared with those afforded
bv deep -wooded valleys of a similar
character in Scotland or on the bor-
ders of the Devonshire moors. Paths,
all beautiful and all worth tracing,
wind through the woods and along
the hill-sides; and a little beyond
the 8trid, Bardtm Tower rises beyond
the valley, backed by slopes of 'hea-
ther. "Grey tower-like projections
of rock, stained with the various hues
of lichens, and hung with loose and
streaming canopies of ling, start out
at intervals," as when Whitaker com-
posed his word-pictures; and the
Wharfe, rocky and whitened with
foam, as it has been all the way from
Bolton, is a good guide to the bridge
below the old tower of the Cliffords.
Before the restoration to his estates
of Henry Clifford the "Shepherd
Lord," on the accession of Henry
VII., there seems to have been a
small lodge or tower at Barden for
the protection of the keepers, — one
of six which existed in different parts
of Barden Forest. (This forest com-
prised the greater part of the town-
ship of Barden, and was attached to
the Honour of Skipton.) The Shep-
herd Lord, whose early life among
the Cumberland Fells led him to seek
quiet and retirement after his restora-
tion, preferred Barden to his greater
castles, and enlarged (or rather re-
built) it so as to provide acconmioda-
ti(m for a moderate train of attendants.
He spent the greater part of his life
here, and the neighbouring canons of
Bolton assisted him in his favourite
studies — ^astronomy and alchemy. At
Barden the old teachers of his youth,
as Wordsworth has numbered them,
were still close at hand : —
*' Ix>Te had he seen hi huts where poor men
He;
Ills dully tenchers had been womls and rills.
The silence that ta in the aiarry aky—
llie Bleep that ia among the lonely hills."
He was present at Flodden in 1513,
when nearly 60, and led the ** flows
of Craven : ' — I
"From Fenigent to Poodle Hill. '
From Linton to Ixmg Addln^iam.
And all that Craven coasts did tOl, I
They with the lusty CI Iffoid tamtr I
This "good Lord Clifforf," as he |
was sometimes called, died in \oiiX
nrobably at Barden, and seems ti*
have })een buried in the choir of
Bolton Prionr. After his time Bar-
den was still occasionally inhabited
by the Clifford Earls of Cumberland,
but it had fallen into decay when the
famous Lady Anne Clifford, '*Coan-
tess of Pembroke, Dorset, and Mont-
gomery," restored it in 1657. The
inscription she placed over the gate
(still remaining and perfect) reeoid$
that the tower "had layne ruinous
ever since about 1589, when her mother
then lay in itt, and was greate with
child with her, till nowe that it was
repayrd by the said Lady. Is. chapt.
58, V. 12. God's Name be PMiised • '
The verse to which reference is made
was placed by the Countess 0a all the
castles she repaired. '*Thoa shalt
build up the foundations of many
generations, and thou shalt be called
the repairer of the breach, the re-
storer of paths to dwell in." She
kept possession of Barden till her
death m 1676 ; but in the division of
the Clifford estates Barden had passed
to Lord Cork, and is now the property
of his descendant the Duke of Devon-
shire. The ruin (Whitaker saw the
house entire in 1774) is that of a
large square buildin|^ the greater part
probably of Hen. vll.'s time, with
a chapel attached. A part of the
tower adjoining the chapel still
serves as a fannhouse, and lodgings
are sometimes to be had here in
smnmer. The chapel is now only
accessible from without. Until WSd
the "Lord's room" opened into it,
and served as a sort of gallery for the
chief persons of the household. This
was the arrangement "restored," if
not first made, by Lady Anne Clif*
Route 80. — Bvmsail — Skipton,
891
ford ; and it is to be regretted that it
no longer exists. The texts still re-
maining on the wall of the chapel,
which is without an altar (the pmpit
is at the E. end), were perhaps
choaen by her. They are from Prov.
chap. xi. and xxxi. The view from
the front of the chapel is very fine,
and the whole position of the tower,
with Barden Fell rising behind it, is
most picturesque.
There is a small picturesque fall on
the GtU-beok, which descends to the
Wharfe a little N. of the bridge
below Barden Tower. It will be de-
sirable to return to Bolton on the left
bank of the river. The paths lead
by the Laund flouse, Posforth Gill,
and the so-called *< Valley of Deso-
lation.**
[The road from Skipton to Pateley
Bridge crosses the Wharfe below Bar-
den Tower. It winds round N. of
Simon Seat, from which point the
view is very striking ; and L of the
road is the Trotolers GUI, a narrow
rocky path, well worth exploration,
through which a stream descends to
join the Wharfe. Nearer Pateley
Bridge the road passes the lead-mines
of Qreenhow HiU. (See Rte. 21.)]
[The Wharfe, above Barden, should
not be neglected. The scenery as far
as Bumsall is wild and pleasing.
Burruail Church (the parish, owing to
a division of the manor, rejoices in 2
rectors, 2 parsonages, and 2 pulpits)
is Perp., with a low tower and a
rude Norm. font. The ch. was well
restored in 1859; when an inscrip-
tion, formerly over the porch, was
removed inside the tower. This re-
cords that the ch. ** was repaired and
butified at the onlie coste and charges
of Sir William Graven, Kt., and
Alderman of the Citie of London,
and late Lord Siavor of the same,
AJ). 1612.'*— This 'Sir William was
a native of Appletrewick (or Aptrick),
in this parisn, who, a second Whit-
tington, went to London under the
care of a common carrier, and after •
terwards became Lord Mayor. His
son, trained in the armies of Gus-
tavus Adolphus and the Prince of
Orange, was one of the most distin-
tinguished soldiers of his time; and
after fighting for the unfortunate
Queen of Bohemia, is supposed to
have been privately married to her on
her return to England as a widow.
"Thus,'' comments Whitaker, "the
son of a Wharf edale peasant matched
with the sister of Charles the First"
He was created Baron of Hamstead
Marshall by (Carles I., and Earl of
Craven (the first of that title) by
Chas. n. At Bumsall the gritstone
ceases, and the thick lower limestone,
extending as far upwards as Deep-
dale Moor, gives a totally different
character to the river-bed, which is
contracted and rocky. For tiie Wharfe
above Thresfield and Grassington, see
Bte. 81.]
Barden to Skipton,
The scenery on the road (7 m.) is
fine, and wiU repay the drive. It
opens at once on the moor, with a
fine wide view N. and N.E. On
Barden Moor (1 m. from Barden
Tower) are the reservoirs which
supply Bradford with water and a
village of workmen connected with
them on the top of the hill. This
reservoir cost 200,0002. It is con-
siderably higher than the old one.
From the summit of a steep ridge
the Valley of the Aire is opened, with
Skipton Delow and Ingleborough, a
grand dark mass, towering in the dis-
tance. An interesting relic is visible
from here. A little below the topmost
knob of the moor the heather termi-
nates abruptly in a straight line ; this
is the old tieeds coach-road, now com-
pletely superseded by the railway.
jBmbBay, the original site of the
priory, afterwards removed to Bolton,
IS passed 2 m. from Skipton. No re-
mains exist at present, but the canons
had a cell and ch. there until the
Dissolution,
892
ifenrfe 80.— fl^tpton : Coitle; History.
SkipUm, Inna: the Midland Hotel,
near Stat. ; Devonshire Arms Inn and
Black Horse, commercial, in town.
Pop. in 1881, 9091. Skipton is a
stat on the Midland Bailway from
Leeds to Carlisle. The old rhyme
hardly now applies :—
«* 0, in Skipton in Craven
J a never a haven.
But many a day fonl weather.")—
It consists principally of one long and
not very picturesque street, at the
head of wnich are the ch. and the
castle. The houses are built chiefly
of the sandstone or millstone grit
from Bumbald's Moor, which blackens
with age, and gives a peculiarly
sombre appearance to the town. Skip-
ton is famous for its cattle-markets,
held once a fortnight It is the
*' capital" of Craven; and as this
part of the Valley of the Aire has
always been regarded as one of the
rich^ tracts in Yorkshire, the town
partakes of the prosperity of the
disirict. (Its name, Scepetone in
Domesday, from Seep, A.-S. a sheep,
must, however, have oeen eiven to it
from the great sheep-walks on the
hill-sides which bound the valley.)
Skipton is a good point from which
to visit WharfSale — ^both the Bolton
and Barden scenery, and that higher
up (see the next route) — and the
grand scenes at Gtordale and Malham
between Skipton and Settle. (See
Bte. 82.)
(A mail omnibus so-called, but
which is really a jolting cart with
very uncomfortable seat, runs daily
from Skipton to Buckden, through
Orassinston and KettleweU, return-
ing in the afternoon. This may help
ihe tourist in going or returning, but
will not allow him time to enjoy the
country.) The town itself, however,
contains nothing to interest, except
the castle and the church.
rrhe Deanery of Craven (the ety-
mology is no doubt that suggested
by Whitaker— (>«»^ Vaen (British)
the <* stony rock,*'— translated in the
Sax. name of the Wapentake, Siain
Qiffe) extends from the sources o£
the Wharfe and the Bibble to the
borders of Lancashire, stretching also
along the Aire as far as Binglej.
This tract of country, whidi c<»n-
prises 25 parishes, contains same <^
the wildest • and most picturesque
scenery in Yorkshire, and, frcan the
peculiar character of the limeBtooe
which almost entirely covers the
deanery, it has been compared to
Greece. (See Gordale, Rie. 32.)
From the 12th to the 15th cent.
nearly the whole of Oaven was
divided between the two great hooses
of Percy and Clifford, and four mo-
nasteries — Bolton, Fountains, Bar-
noldswick (or Eirkstall), and SeUaj.
The head of the Clifford barony was
8kwUm.2
The Castle, which the tourist shonld
visit before the church, is entered be-
neath a square tower, bearmg the
Clifford motto, *' Desonnais," in open
letters, as a battlement. It is en 2
periods, — ^the round towers, connected
by a curtain, dating from iiie reign of
£dw. II. ; the inhabited portion, E.,
from that of Hen. VIU. Skipton
Castle is perhaps of mote interest
from its associations with the (}liffard
family than from its architectural
importance.
Hiaiory of Skipton,
William de Romille, who obtained
a grant of Earl Edwin s lands after
the Conquest, removed the chief
place of his honour from Bolton to
Skipton, where the steep rock on
which the castle stands offered a
position of great strength and secu-
rity. From the heiress of Bomille
Skipton passed by descent to the wife
of William de Fortibus, the great
Earl of Albemarle. It descend^ in
that house until the death of Aveline
de Fortibus, who had married Ed-
mund Plantagenet (Crouchback), sod
of Hen. m., in 1269, when the baionv
of Skipton passed to the Crown, and
so contmued until the Ist of Edw. IL
B&ute SO.—Slnptm : History.
That king bestowed it on his favour-
ite. Piers de Gaveston, who held it
but for a short time, and afterwards,
in 1310, on Bobert de Clifford, who
had signalized himself in the Scot-
tish wars nnder Edward L, was
Grovemor oi Carlisle, and "pomi-
nus" (hereditary sherilH of West-
moreland. He fell at Bannockbum
(1314). From this time until the
17th cent, the estates of the Cliifords
extended, with only 10 m. intermp-
tion, from Skipton to Broughun
Castle, a distance of 70 miles. The
most noticeable of the house have
been — ^the 8th lord, who fell at the
batUe of St. Alban's (83rd Hen. YI.),
the «<old Lord Clifford** of Shake-
speare, although he was but 40 when
he fell, a mistake to which we are at
any rate indebted for a beantifnl
passage:-—
<* Wtft thon (Hdalned, dear father.
To lo»e thy youth in peace, and to achieve
The silver liveiy of advised tuge ;
And In thy reverence and thy chafar-days,
thoa
To die in ruffian battle ?**—
K, Ben, VI^ Ft, IL act v. sc. X
His son, who thus speaks, is the
-black-faced aifford*^ who killed
the young Earl of Rutland at Wake-
field (Kte. 38), and afterwards him-
self fell at Ferrybridge (Bte. 2).
His son was the " Shepherd Lord,"
who, after his father's death, and
when the Cliffords had been attainted
by tiie triumphant house of York,
lay hid, by his mother's care, among
the shepherds of Cumberland, and
of Londesborongh, in Yorkshire (see
Rte. 8) for nearly 24 years, wnen
the accession of Hen. vU. restored
him to all his dignities. (See ante,
Barden.) The next Lori, whose
'' ungodly and ungudely disposicion **
is much comphunMl of by his father,
was created jBarl of Cumberland by
Hen. ym. It has been conjectured,
wi^ some probability, that, during
his early irregular Ufe, he was the
hero of the ballad of the <Not-
browneMaid:'^-
**Xow understand; to Wettmarlandet
Which if imine htrftagtt
I wyll you bringe, and with a rynge
By wi^ of maiyage
I wyll you take, and lady make
As shortlie as 1 can.
Thus have yon won an erlys son.
And not a banyshed man."
See a note in Whitaker's * History of
Craven,* p. 256.
It was this first Earl who built the
more modem portion of Skipton
Castle (in the short space <A 5
months) for the reception of his
daughter-in-law, the Lady Eleanor
Brandon, daughter of Charles Bran-
don, Duke 6i Suffolk, by Hary,
Queen Dowager of France, the sister
of Hen. YIII.: and it was in his
time that Skipton Castle was be-
sieged during the ** Pilgrimage of
Grace.** The narrow escape of the
Lady Eleanor has been duly recorded
\j Ftoude (H. £., iii. p. 142).
When the insurrection broke out she
was at Bolton Priory, either on a
visit, or in sanctuaiy there. The
insurgents threatened, if Skipton
Castle were not given up to them, to
seize and outrage Lady Eleanor, and
to kill her infant son and daughter.
Christofer Aske, brother of Robert
Aske, who, unlike him, had taken the
Kinff*s side, had crossed the country
to Skipton ^the Earl of Cmnberland
was his cousin), and was in the castle.
In the dead of night, with the vicar
of Skipton, a a^room, and a boy, he
stole through the beleaffuering camp,
crossed the moors with led horses, by
unfrequented paths, and brought back
Lady Eleanor with her ladies safe
through the besiegers into the castle.
The siege continued for some time,
but the castle was not taken.
The 3rd Earl, who ^'perfcnmed 9
yiages by sea in his own person, most
of them to the West Indies,** and at
his own expense, set out with a larger
estate than any of his ancestors, and
rapidly made it less. His only
daughter and heir was the Lady
Anne Clifford, who became Countess
of Votadiy Pembroke, and Montgo-
894
SouteSO.—Shiplon: The Castle.
merj, and who, after 38 years of
family discord, attained nndispnted
possession of the harony of Skipton.
On the death of the 3rd Earl without
heirs male, the earldom passed to
Francis, ** heir male of the Ist Earl."
Uis son Henry was the 5th and last
Earl of Ciunberland. Until his
death there was a constant struggle
w^ith the Ladv Anne, heiress of the
3rd Earl, for the lands of the barony
of Skipton, which the earls however
managed to retain. Skipton Castle
was l^ieged by the Parhamentarian
troops under Lambert, Poyntz, and
Bossiter, from Dec. 1642 to Dec.
1645, when it was surrendered upon
articles. It had been held for the Kmg
(under the Earl of Cumberland) by
Sir John Mallory of Studley, and
during the siege the last Earl died
and was brought to the church here
for interment.
Of the famous Lady Anne Clifford,
daughter of the 3rd Earl, bom in
Skipton Castle, Jan. 1589-90— the
first great lady, not of royal birth,
who can be said to occupy a con-
spicuous place in the history of Eng-
lish life and manners — ^the best and
pleasantest account will beC found in
Hartley Coleridge's * Lives of North-
em Worthies.* She died, aged 87,
in 1675— having pa^ed the whole of
her life, after she recovered her great
inheritance, in her northern castles,
which she restored and rebuilt. Her
house, says Whitaker, was *^ a school
for the young, a retreat for the aged,
an asylum for the persecuted, a col-
lege for the learned, and a pattern
for alL" The poet Daniel was her
tutor in youth. She showed that she
had profited by his teaching when
she erected the monument to Ed-
mund Spenser which still remains in
Westminster Abbey; and that she
*' could talk well on all subjects, from
predestination to slea-silk, was tes-
tified by Bishop Rainbow, when he
preached her funeral sermon. She
settled the castle and honour on her
two grandsons, who were successively
Earls of Thanet : and Skipton is still
the property of their descendant. Sir
Henry J ames Tufton. |
TlteCasOe.
Lady Anne Clifford, on recovering
Skipton, found the castle and churrh
almost in ruins, from injuries during
and after the siege. She plared
them in complete repair — ^as an iu-
scription records over the inner en-
trance. It is there said that iht
castle ** was pulled down and demo-
lished almost to the foundations, bj
order of the Parliament" — ^but thit
is certainly an exaggeration. The
battlements of the outer gateway
were added by Lady Anne ; as yrere
the roofs of the main castle, and ite
principal entrance. This entrance
hides a Norm, portal, which seems to
be the only portion of the castie t>f
older date than the gnmt to Bobert
de Clifford. He, or his immediate
successors, built tiie existing western
portion of the castle, — a square, with
massive round towers at the angles
and in the sides. These are not very
striking without; and perhaps the
most picturesque scene is obtained in
the inner court, where a yew-tree,
growing in the centre, brushes with
its dark green boughs the walls of
the little quadrangle, and contrasts
well with the reddi^ stone. On one
side steps ascend to the hall, which,
with its kitchens and adjoining
offices, is a good example. An apart-
ment in one of the round towers is
pointed out as having bean a *' prison "
of Mary of Scotland — ^who was never
at Skipton. This Edwardian castle
is uniimabited ; adjoining it E. is the
ranee of building erected by the first
Earl of Cumberland (temp. Hen.
VIII.) for the reception of tne Ladv
Eleanor Brandon. It consisted mainlv
of a long gallery — the usual append-
age to a great nouse of that period
— which during the last cent, was
divided into smaller rooms. Thi^
part of the castle is inhabited, but
Boate so.— Skipton : Church.
is usually shown to visitors. Lady
Anne Clifford lived in it during her
visitB to SkiptoD, making the octa-
^nal room at the top of the great
tower her bedroom. In it is some
tapestry (temp. Hen. IV.), worth
notice for the excellent examples of
costume it affords. It is apparently
Flemish, and represents the Vices
and Virtues, wiui their several at-
tendants. There is a marriage cere-
mony, in which the coffers filled with
gifts' are curious. This room also
contains two portraits of the famous
Lady Anne — ^when young and in ad-
vanced life — very bad pictures, but
otherwise of great interest and de-
serving more careful preservation. A
large family picture of the 8rd Earl
of Cumberland, his Countess, and
two sons, both of whom died young,
wa.s also to be seen here, but has
been removed to Otford, in Kent
His daughter, Lady Anne Clifford,
caused this picture to be made, after
the original portraits of these " hon-
ourable personages" — and composed
(it is said, with the assistance of Sir
Matthew Hale) the long inscriptions
with which it is covered. Within
the precincts of the castle was the
chapel of St. John — ^now desecrated,
and used as a stable.
On the N. side the castle over-
hangs a narrow valley, from which
the rock on which it stands rises to
a considerable height. A branch of
the Leeds and Liverpool canal is
carried close under this rock. Much
limestone is embarked here, by means
of tnunroads, from the neighbouring
quarries of Hawbank, worked on the
body of the hill called the Haw.
Skipton Church, which belonged
to the priory and convent of Bolton
from the first foundation of their
house until the Dissolution, closely
adjoins the castle. It is for the most
part Ferp. and late, and is of little
interest. It was restored 1854 and a
rcredos, designed by G. Scott, erected.
The tower wa9 shattered during the
395
siege and was repaured by Lady Anne,
who has left her name (which she was
by no means slow to immortalize) on
one of the pinnacles. The flat wooden
ceiling is of Henry VIII. s time, and
the clumcel screen 'came from Bolton
Abbey, 1533. (The ch. was partly
restored in 1853. after having been
struck by lightning. The E. window,
and one in uie N. aisle, are by Capron-
nier, of Brussels.) Until the Dissolu-
tion the Cliffords seem to have been
buried at Bolton (although none of
their remains have been found there).
Afterwards they had a vault under
the altar of Supton church. Here
the Earls of Cumberland and their
countesses are interred; and the
monument, above, of the Ist Earl,
was restored, and that to her father.
George, the 3rd Earl, and last male of
the Cliffords, erected, by Lady Anne.
These monuments have been care-
fully restored, and the brasses and
inscriptions on them are modem.
The shields of arms at the sides of
the altar-tombs are enamelled in
colours. Lady Anne Clifford was
herself buried at Appleby.
The Free Chrammar School was
founded temp. Edw. VI., and has a
yearly revenue of 600Z. On the E.
side of the town there is a saline sul-
phuretted spring, o\'er which a pump-
room and hathf have been erected.
1 m. out of Skipton, on the Bolton
road, is a large limestone quarry.
Skipton was the birthplace of the
antiquary Holmes; and boasts of a
more distinguished son in Lord St.
Leonards.
Batlioays to Settle and Ingleton,
leading to the Cave district and the
mountains of Craven (Btes. 32 and 34).
Bail to Colne, Burnley, Blackburn
and Liverpool.
There is little to attract the
tourist on this line, which has
ttations at Elslack^ Thornton, and
Earhy, before crossing the Yorkshire
border. A short loop turns N.W.
beyond Earby to Barnddstmek, now
896
BauU SO.Snmghton HdU.
a large village. Here was the first
foan£tion of the Cistercian abbey
which was afterwards remoyed to
Kirkstall near Leeds. Henry de
Lacj, *'yir inter proceres regni no-
tissimns," having made a vow during
a dangerous illness, established the
house here in 1147, and colonised it
from Fountains. The monks called
their new home "Mont Ste. Marie.'*
Six years after their first settlement
they abandoned Bamoldswick for
Kirkstall, where the site had greatly
approved itself to the abbS (see
KtrhsiaU, Bte. 29). The parish ch.
of Bamoldswick was then rebuilt
(on the edge of a deep elen, — Whence
its name Gill Church), but at some
distance from the former site. Por-
tions of it are £. £ng., the tower
Perp.
2 m. N.W. of Bamoldswick is
BraeeweUy the most ancient home
in Craven of the Tempests. Some
ruins of their old manor-house (of
brick, t«mp. Hen. VIH. — there is
part of an earlier stone building
adjoining, in which is a room called
" king Henry's Parlour '*) remain
near uie ch. This has Norm, por-
tions; and, in the windows, many
shields of arms of the Tempests and
their quarterines. The Tempest
motto, "Loyouf (love — perhaps a
veiT ancient form in the Craven
diiuect) as thou fynds," also occurs
frequently. On Mowber and Gil-
dersber, 2 heights beyond the manor-
house, are small square encampments,
said to have been thrown up bv
Prince Bupert in his inarch through
Craven.
The high road from Skipton to
Clitheroe passes (4 m. from Skipton)
JhouahUm HaU (Trustees of Sir
Charies Tempest, but occupied by
Mrs. Semon). The family of Tempest,
resident at Broughton since the middle
of the 15th cent, when Sir Boger
Tempest married the heiress of tiie
QiUiotts, is probably the most an-
cient in Craven. It was settled s:
Bracewell (see ante) soon after thf
Conquest ; but that (the eldest}
branch lost its estates after the cirJ
war, and the Broughton Tempests
now represent the family. Tli«
stately nouse, a Palladian buildiji^
with a portico carried tiutmgh t«r'<
stories, was refaced, and wings weiv
added, about 1835. On one side i<
an Italian garden. There are eosnt
fine trees in the park, and soiDf
picturesque old yews in the drive
toward Skipton. The house coo-
tains some good pieturet^ piobaUv
collected by a Stephen Tempest tt
the beginning of the last centuzr.
Among them are — Danghter d
Herodias with head of St. John.
TUian (?); St. Sebastian, A. dd
Sarto; a Virgin and Child, attri-
buted to Bc^aeUe, and of great
beaufy; 2 river scenes, Breughel;
St Catherine, Carlo Dolce; pic-
tures attributed to Fra Bartolomeo,
and to Perugino (?); Landscape,
Both; and, most important of all.
a very fine Salvator Boga; the sub-
ject a seaport, with rockv landscape.
1. ; and in front a .^ philosopher "
throwing his gold into the sea. The
picture is full of silvery light, and is
probably one of the finest Salvators
m this country. In the (imtna-roow
are 2 more Salvaior$, one of them, a
rocky scene with brigands, yeiT fine.
Here are also 2 CanalettU; a Bockr
Coast, by Vemet; and an interior.
Oitade. In other rooms are a half-
length of Pope, with book in hand,
and a portrait of Col. Thomas Tem-
pest, temp. Chas. I.
The CJiurch of Broughton (1 m. dis-
tant and oft the road) has Nonuiii
portions, and a N. aisle (Perp.), with
niches for figures in the faces of the
piers. A ^apel at the £. end con-
tains mural monuments to the Tem-
pests of the 18th cent, with their
pedigree.
Proceeding on the Clitheroe road.
and passing the village of E. MarUm
(the ch, is without interest), we reach
Boute 6l.—8kipion to KetOeueM.
39?
19^. MarUmi the reddence, for many
generations, of the Heben (here
called Haybers), from whom the
Hcbers of Hodnet (and the Bp. of
CcUciitta) are descended. (There
was another branch near Ilklej, see
ante). Oledstone Howe, a large
house built toward the end of the
last cent, standing high above the
village, and commanding fine views,
is the property of the Boundells,
fomierly of Scriven near Knares-
borongh. Ingthorpe Orange was a
grange attached to Bolton Priory.
For QUburne, through which the
road passes, see Bte. 33.
ROUTE 31.
SKIPTON TO KETTLCWELL. (UPPER
WHARFEDALE.)
A Ycoy oncomfortable mail cart
runs daily from Skipton to Buckden,
through Orassington and Kettlewell,
starting at 7 A.X., and returning to
Skipton in the evening. The pedes-
trian may travel by it to Ketuewell
ur to Buckden, whence he may pro-
ceed by rough but most picturesque
inoontain roads, either down Cover-
dale to Middleham (Bte. 23, and the
present route pod), down Bishopdale
toward Aysgarth ^te. 24), or below
Addleborough to Bainbridge and
Askrigg (Bte. 24). Either of these
routes, however, will be too long
(starting from Skipton) for a single
day's excursion ; and it will be best to
remain a night either at the inn at
Kilnsey, or at Kettlewell, where there
is rough accommodation for pedes-
trians. But it must be remembered
that these remoter mountain districtji
are not to be explored at all without
some sacrifice of comfort. A very
Sleasant day's excursion may be made
rom Skipton to Bylstone, thence
to Kilnsey and Kettlewell; there
crossing uie Wharfe, and returning
by Grassington. (There are some
small inns on these roads, as far as
Kettlewell, passable for pedestrians ;
but the pleasantest and best are at
Kilnsey, see i>o«^)
Between Skipton and Threshfield
the road winds up the great lime-
stone ridee between Airedale and
Wharfedale, passing under (1.) Flathu
FeU (1151 ft), and (rt) Byhtane
FelL Bylstone (5 m.) brines us
at once into the company of Words-
worth. Here was the ** seques-
tered hall ^ of the Nortons, who
lost the whole of their Yorkshire
property for- their share in the
"Bising of the North"— the rebel-
lion headed by the Earls of North-
umberland and Westmoreland (Nov.
1569) ; with the view of restormg the
"old religion,** and of supporting
Manr of Scotland, then imprisoned
at Tutbury, but who was removed at
once, for greater security, to Ooven-
trv. In his « White Doe of Bylstone,*
Wordsworth has connected the
Nortons* share in the rising with
a local story (see Bolton, Bte. 30),
and has made the ** exalted Emily**
the survivor of her father and bro-
thers, ''Norton and his eight bold
sons,** whom, following the old bal-
lad, he condemns to death at York :
*' Thee, Norton, wl* thine eight good sonncn.
They doom'd to dye, aUs for rath !
Thy reverend lockes thee could not sare,
Nor them their fUr and blooming youthc *'
In fact, however, aU except two,
Thomas and C^uistopher, seem to
have escaped with lire — ^though the
family was rendered incapable of in-
heriting throndb the attamder of the
father. Of *<Byl8tone*8 old seques-
398
Souie 81. — ByhtoTie — Oraasingicn.
tered hall" little remains but the
site, marked by large remainB of
foundations in a field E. of the
ch., looking over to the PelL Some
BTcamore-fiees are grouped about
them, and they are probably the
traces of a " Vivery," as Whitaker
calls it, — a pleasure-ground, with
topiary works, fish-ponds, and an
island, attached to the hall. The
house fell into decay immediately
after the attainder of the Nortons;
and, with the estates here, remained
in the hands of the Grown until the
second year of James I., when they
were granted to the Earl of Cumber-
land. Although Wordsworth makes
the Nortons raise their famous banner
here, they assembled their followers
in fact at Ripon (Nov. 18, 1569),
but their Bylstone tenants rose with
them; and one at least, "Bichard
Kitchen, butler to Mr. Norton.*" was
executed at Ripon. A small ch., of
Dec. character, has replaced the
little chapel adjoining the manor-
house; and in the chancel is a
tablet for Richard Waddilove, Esq.,
of Rylstone, d. 1850, who left lOOOZ.
towards rebuilding the ch. The old
bells disappeared with the old tower,
and Wordsworth's lines are no longer
applicable : —
•« When the bells of Rjlstone pUyed
Thdr Sabbath music—* God us ayde/
That was the sound they seem'd to speak."
A ring, bearing the same motto, was
sold at a sale of antiquities from
Bramhope Manor, Feb. 1865.
On the highest point of Rylstone
Pell, opposite the ch., some pious
hand has erected a cross ; and on a
much lower elevation towards the
end of the ridge, are the remains of a
square tower — built, it is said, by
Richard Norton, probably as a hunting
and watch tower : —
'* High on a point of ruraed Bround
Among the wastes ox Rylstone l^U,
Above the loftiest ridge or mould
Where foresters or shepherds dwell.
An ediike of warlllce frame
Stands single (Norton Tower Its naine) ;
It fronts all qnarten, and looks louT.i
0*er path and road, and plain mad <k-J..
Dark moor, and gleam of pool and ftmz.
Upon a prospect without bound.**
WIUU Doe, c»D^-
Some mounds near the tower 2"
thought to have been used as bcr
for archers ; and there are tracer • *
a strong wall, running from the to^-
to the edge of a deep glen, whenev
a ditch runs to another ravine. Tb^
was once a pound, used hy tb^
NortoDS for detaining the red d^v
within the township of Bylstone.
The scenery round the little vO
Uges of Craooe, ThrethfiM. azri
(humnqton (^Inn : Devonaiure Arms,
quite passable as a resting-place) -<
wild without being fine or yerr in-
teresting. Trees will not grow:
and stone walls take the pb^ t^
hedges. These villages are th*
^^capitak" of the mining district,
which extends upward, rt., ota
Gh-assington Moor. Lead has been
worked here from a very eark
period; and Whitaker sogvests that
the lead coverings of ue mo-i
ancient Craven churches are in all
probability of native metaL The
Arassington lead-mines belong to the
Duke of Devonshire. The lead fn«.
some of them is melted on the sp<4.
that from others is sent to Skiptoo
The mines are drained by an open
level, commenced in 1796, and com-
pleted in 1830, at a cost of dOjQOOl
From Threshfield a pedestrian m»}
descend the Wharfe to Baiden anl
Bolton. (See the former route.)
At Linton, 1 m. E. of ThreshfieU
is a hospital for aged women.
The Upper Wharfedale, above
Threshfield, is a wild moorland vallev
with wooded slopes. The Wharfs-
(here fuUv entitled to SpenserV
epithet "swift Wherf," which hi
borrowed from Camden, who deriTe*
the name from the ^tish gver^
rapid) issues rapidly from amoo^ j
these woods, and after expanding into
a glassy pool struggles thnmgli •
Souie 31. — Kilmey Croff — Coniaion.
3dd
xarrow passage (aboat 2 ft. wide)
>etween lime^ne rockB. The place
'which is worth seeing) is called the
TCUitrilU — ^a name of uncertain sig-
lification, but scarcely meaning the
* riUs of the Ghost/' as has been sng-
i^ested. The river is fine and rocky.
I^earer Kilnsej is Chapel House (Rev.
W. Bury), on the hill 1., from which
the views are very fine; and nearer
^he river, Nethenide (Colonel Ne-
nUo).
Kilnsey Crag is 4 m. from Thresh-
Reld, on the rt. bank of the "Wharfe).
Here are two wayside Inns, the
Angles Arms, and the Tennan^s
ATmSf which offer good fishing quar-
ters. (The Wharfe abounds in trout
5s. a-day is ^charged for the privilege
of fishing here.) Kilnsey (" Chilesie "
in l>omesday and still pronounced
« Kilsey ") Crag itself is a magnifi-
cent crag of overhanging limestone,
— (" Cautes omnium,'' wiSte Camden,
" quas quidem ego vidi, editissima et
prseruptissima") — and one of the
best examples in the county of
those great inland cliffs "which
are among the most striking phe-
nomena OT Yorkshire, — only differ-
ing from sea-cliffs because the water
no rlonger beats against them." —
FhiUips. This " was a promontory
overhanging the primaeval sea-loch,
which is now the green valley of
the Wharfe; and the mural preci-
pices which gird the bases of whem-
side, Ingleborough, and Peny^hent,
formed bold margins to similar
branches of the sea, which ex-
tended up Chapeldale and Bibbles-
dale." — lb. Saplings and ivy spring
from the many fissures that cross and
divide the face of the rock. Larger
trees and brushwood, with a sedum
(the lesser orpine), cluster along the
ledges; and a colony of swidlows
keep the crest of the great cliff alive
with their constant flitting. The lime-
stone crag extends for nearly half a
mile ; but its highest part (1G5 ft.) is
near the inn. x on should climb to
the top, whence the view is striking.
Much land here was given at an
early period to Fountains Abbey
(the moors 1. beyond Amcliffe are
stiU called "Fountain Fell"); and
the vast flocks which the monks
fed on the adjoining moors were
driven to Kilnsey for their annual
shearing. The scene on such occa-
sions must, as Whitaker remarks,
have been one " to which nothing in
modem appearances or living man-
ners can oe supposed to form any
parallel.''
Across the Wharfe, nearly oppo-
site Kilnsey, is Coniston, where is a
small chapel, most picturesquely
situated, and probably, as Whitaker
suggested, " the most ancient build-
ing in Craven." Two Norm, and two
Perp. arches remain within; the
font is rude, square Norm., and an
early triangular-beaded window de-
serves notice. The old chapel was
added to in 1800 ; but the work then
built has been removed, and a
modem stracture of good character
erected — ^preserving all the ancient
building. The opening of Coniston
GtU Hole, E. of this chapel, is very
picturesque (hole, used throughout
this district for the narrowest,
deepest part of a valley, is the A.-S.
hoi = hollow).
[Close beyond KUnsev, the little
river Slnrfare, which descends by
Amcliffe, through Littonddlej joins
the Wharfe. This lateral valley has
scars of limestone, with green mea-
dows below them, and *^ tofts" of
trees overhanging occasional hamlets.
Such tree '* tofts " (tufts — it is the
old French " touffe de hois "), shelter-
ing insulated homesteads, each of
which has its little garden plot, are
characteristic of Craven villages.
" These," says Whitaker, " are the
genuine tofts and crofts of our ances-
tors, with the substitution only of
stone walls and slate to the wooden
crocks and thatched roofs of anti-
quity." AmeUffe Church has been
4od
!Boute 81. — Jbowkahotlom Cave.
" restored.** The tower is temp. Hen.
Vin., and there is an earl^r bell with
the inscription: "Petre poli clayis
fac ut intremus prece quavis."
Between Amcliffe and Kilnsey is
the Dowkahottom Oave,— one of the
numerous caverns in the limestone
of this district, formed mainlj bj the
solvent action of water charged with
free carbonic acid. The entrance,
which is merely a fall in the roof of
the cave, is on a plateau of rock
(1250 ft above the sea, and difficult
to find without a guide). The ori-
ginal mouth of the cave is not now
visible. During most of its course
the chambers and passages of the cave
are not separated oj any great thick-
ness from the rock above, and thus
other falls must be expected. The E.
division of the cave is about 450 feet
long, and has three fine chambers
separated by two passages, the first
very short, and the second very long.
In the first and second are stalactites
and stalagmite ; the third is floored
with mechanical deposits, blocks of
limestone fallen from the roof and a
stiff brown clay beneath. The W.
division, about 250 feet long, also
contains three chambers and two
passages, with stalagmites and fallen
blocks throughout Since 1850 the
cavern has hSm carefully explored by
Mr. Jackson, of Settle, and by Mr.
Denny (curator of the museum of Uie
Leeds Philoe. Soc.). They found,
sometimes under the stalagmite, and
sometimes among loose stones and
charcoal ashes above it, bones of the
wolf, wild doff, and fox, and of the
ox, sheep, wud boar, horse, and red
deer. In the first chamber, under a
layer of charcoal ashes, 3 human
dceletons were found, in a bed of
clay, which rested on soft stalagmite;
fragments of weapons and of per-
sonal ornaments — bronie armlets and
fibulsB, rings, &c. — ^besides Roman
coins, including a brass and a silver
denarius of l^jan, were also dis-
covered in different parts of the
cavern ; and in one instance a faunus
skull on the floor of the cave, below
the stalagmite. When first examined,
the surface of the cave was stre^Ti
with bones and skulls of imimal^
The relics found seem to be of twu
periods— late Brito-BomAQ, and pri-
meval,— ^the latter being bone phi>
and ornaments, pierced sea-shelK
and pierc^ teeth (of the wolf appa*
rentfy), which seem to have formed a
necklace. These results were obtained
by exploration of only the soifaire
layers, where it was not deeply buried
by the fallen blocks.
During August, 1881, fuither ex-
?lorations were made by Mr. £. B.
'oulton, who presented a preUminarr
report to the British Associatioa.
which is printed in the Beports oC
the 1881 meeting. Sinking a shaft
in chamber 3 of E. division, pre-
viously unexplored, he passed through
the following layers of cave deposit:
(1st) a Bomano-iritish layer, one or
two inches thick, of black earth,
with pottery ornaments, &c., and
numerous bones; (2nd) haxdiah sta-
lagmite, about 6 inches thick, with
bones of a dog or small wolf ; (3rd)
soft stalagmite, 4 inches thick : (4th)
haidish stalagmite, 6 inches thick:
(5th) soft stalagmite, 2 ft. 6 inches
thick; (6th) stiff brown clay, with
fragments of fallen roof imbedded in
it This was 8 feet thick. It has
been suggested that the cave formed
a retreat for certain inhabitants of
the district during the disturbed times
which followed the departure of the
Romans. The bones of ^niwiaic qut
either have been washed into the
cave by a flood — or, more probaSlv.
the Dowkabottom cavern may hare
served for a long period as a wolfs
den — an animal which had periia{)£
its latest home in En^and among
these Yorkshire hills. (The last woS
is traditionally said to have been killed
at Rothwell, near Leeds, hy John ci
Gaunt in the 14th cent.) SimiUr
relics — animal and human have
Bottte 31.— Ketdeadl—Langdrothdaie.
401
been found in the "Victoria" cave
near Settle (Rte. 32.) ]
Crossing the Wharfe either at
Ck>ni8ton, or above Kilnsey, the road
passes along the L bank of the river
to KetOetoell (8 m. from Kihisey).
The views are pleasant, and the road
bordered rt. hy a lowxangeof the lime-
stone cliffs which so greatly charac-
terise these dales. Kettlewell (*< well ")
here possibly represents the Teu-
tonic weOer, a dwelling s the house
of Ketel) boasts of two little Jfi?»,
the Bacehorse, and the Tennant*s
Arms. The village, simple and old-
fashioned, is the best place for ex-
ploring the upper part <n Wharf edale
and the fine passes out of it It was
one of the most ancient settlements in
the valley ; and until 1800 there was
a small Norm. ch. here (aisleless,
with narrow round-headed windows),
built probably by the Arches (de
Arcubus), who were lords here soon
after the Ckmquest. All distinctive
features were destroyed in 1800 ; but
the Norm, font, circ. on 4 rude
pedestals, remains.
Immediately round Kettlewell the
chief hills are Oreat WhemMe
(2310 ft), dividing Wharfedale from
Ntddeidale, and Buekden Pike
(2H04 ft.). Between these hills a
deeply sunk road winds upward, and
then descends Goverdale to Middle-
ham. ** The views from this pass,
and from the sides of Buckden rike
down the rockv lensth of Wharfe-
dale, are superb. The easy ascent
from Kettlewell should on no account
he omitted."— PAiTUps. Buckden
Birk$ (2001 ft), and BaitegiU Hag
(1985 ft), both on the N. side of
Littcmdale, are also marked features ;
and far down the dale the fells of
Rylstone and Simon Seat bound
the horizon. All this is still the
region of the lower limestone — ^green
sheepwalks rising far up the hill-
sides, and brol^ by crags and
'* girdles " of rock.
^Yorkshire.']
J An adventurous pedestrian may
^0 his way across Hard Flaik
(1746 ft)— a broad hill, with great
" floors " or terraces of limestone, very
finely displayed — ^to Malham Tarn
(where he is close to Gkirdale and
Malham Cove), and thence to Kirkby
Malham or to Settle Op. 407). The
distance to lifalham Tarn is about
7 m. — and thence to Kirkby 5 ni.
See the next route.]
Still passing up the Wharfe, 2 m
from Kettlewell is i(?tor&o<toii (what-
ever the " Star " may be, " botton "
is the same word found in Cleveland,
and representing the Norse lo^n=a
depth), " a little place of rude stone
houses, with porches that resemble
an outer stair .... trim flower-
gardens, and fruit-trees, and a fringe
of sycamores." — White, Beyond
Buckden, the next village (2 m. —
here is an Inn which may do for a
pedestrian), the main road turns
away rt. and climbs the pass sepa-
rating Wharfedale from Bisnopdale —
a long, beautiful valley that descends
to Aysffarth (see for it Bte. 24).
From Kettlewell to Aysgarth is
about 15 m., but the distance over
these rough roads and hills is hardlv
to be measured by miles. The walk
is, however, to be recommended ; and
the views across toward Penvffhent
on one side, and down Bishopdde on
the other, are fine. A branch 1.
from this road leads through Crag-
dale by Seamer-water to Bainbridge.
(For this see Bte. 24.)
Following the Wharfe, however,
the road ascends Langttrothdale (as
the valley is called above Buckden),
passing out of the limestone near
Deepdale. From this point to the
source of the river under Ihe brow
of Cam FeU, 1665 ft above the sea,
the course of the Wharfe is through
gritstone; the scenery very wild
^-desolate moorland, with Cam
Fell, Inffleborongh, Penyghent, and
Whemsiae conspicuous.
2 D
402
Bouie 82. — SkipUm to Ingletan.
At Eufjb&rhdhMf on the rt. bank of
the river, a little bejond Buckden, is
a small ancient chapel, some parts of
which (the piers and arches on the
S. side very mde and without orna-
ment) maj perhaps date from before
the donquest Tne roodlof t — ^painted
with broad red lines — remains, with
the date 1558, the jear of Queen
Biaiy^s death. There is a tradition
of a great flood here, which left many
fish in this little ch. — where the
foresters of Langstrothdale have been
baptized and buried at least ever
since tiie Conquest
Langdrothaale, or LangUrother
(the name seems originally Celtic —
strath Wr, the "long valley *'--«nd,
as in many similar cases, the Teu-
tonic translation of part of the name
was added to it— diangstrother and
Comstrother occur in the "Black
Book of Hexham " among the bonnd-
aries of Carraw; and comp. An-
stmther in Fif e)---formed a chase (it
is sometimes cidled a forest) in days
when the valley was far more filled
with wood than it is at present. Its
» Milk-fed feUows, fleshy bred.
Well browned, with sounding bows np-
benf
followed, according to the old poem,
the Shepherd Lord Clifford to the
field of Flodden ; and certain natives
of this remote dale have been com-
memorated in other verse, of a some-
what different quality. Id C!hancer s
'Reve's Tale,' "Johan and Al^,"
scholars of Soleres Hall at Clam<
bridge, —
"Of 00 toun^were the! bom that hlghte
Strother
Ffer in the North I can not tellen where.'
And Whitaker first suggested what
Mr. Gamett has confirmed — ^that this
"toun'* was really Langstrother.
The dialect which Chaucer employB
in this story is still, to a great extent,
that of this little-visited comer d
Craven ; and he copied, in all pro-
bability, the language he had hhn-
self heard spoken in " Solere Hall "
by some Langstrothdale student. It
may be added that Mr. Gamett
CFhUological Essays,' 1859) has
Sinted a portion of the poem from a
S. which retains the peculiarities
of dialect more exactly- than anj
which has been collated by editors of
Chancer.
On the hills about the source of
the Wharfe the doudbeny (Mubm
ehaauBmorua) abounds to such an
extent as, when ripe, to redden thf
surface of the ground.
IIOUTE 32.
SKIPTON TO INQLETON. BT SETTLJL
(MALHAM, GORDALE, VICTORIA
CAVE.)
(Midland BaUway.)
For a short distance this line foi-
lowB the valley of the Aire (as it
does throughout its course from
Leeds to Skipton, Bte. 34). The
*« Leeds and Liverpool Canal" also
accompanies it as far as
4 m. Oargrave Stat., where it turns
S. Gargrave€%ttreAhasalowniasBiTe
Perp. tower, — ^the rest of the build-
ing is modem and thnraghont of
good Perp. character. Nearly all
the windows have stained glass
much of which is by Capronnier of
Brussels. The font, of alfdMster, has
panels, well carred, with emUems of
Boute S2.—E8htm Hall
408
the Evangelists and good foliage.
There is a lofty canopy of carved oak.
Many of the windows are memorials
of (Jnrrers and Wilsons of Eshton
Hall (see post). Ch. and ch.-yd. are
excellently kept Tradition asserts
that Gktrgrave had once 7 chnrches,
all of which were destroyed by the
Scots in a sudden foray — except that
remaining — ^which they spai«d be-
cause it was dedicated to St. Andrew.
About i hl below the town the site
of a Boman villa was discovered
toward the end of last cent. No
traces now remain. The nearest
Roman road was that which ran
from Dkley to Ribchester.
The village of Ghirgrave (Pop. in
1871, 1291) is uninteresting. There
is a large ''spinning" mill. The
Aire, here somewhat canalised, runs
through the village, and the Leeds
and Liverpool Canal a little N. of
it. Qargrave Hotue (W. Coulthurst,
Esq.), lies among trees, W.
1} m. N. of Gkurgrave is Eshton
Hall (Sir Matthew Wilson, Bart.),
a large mansion, in a fine situation,
built 1825-7 (Webster, of Kendal,
archit), in the style of Inigo Jones.
There is a fine staircase and en-
trance hall: and the library and
drawing-room, opening into each
other, contain about 10,000 vols.,
chiefly of English history and topo-
graphr — ^books in fine condition and
well bound, a portion of the great
collection of Miss Richardson Cmrer,
whose library and whose praises
have been sung by Dibden, and
who was half sister of the present
owner. (The house and estate were
bought by Mattiiew Wilson, of
London, in 1646.) There are some
good pictures. In the Dining-room,
Diana and Actseon, in a very fine
landscape, BubenM (on copper);
Virgin and Child, wHh dance of
angels, Vandyck; Yun^in and Child,
Luini; Drawing after Rafiaelle,
Heliodorus driven from the Temple,
Vand}/6k} Dntoh Lady, .BemdrancZ^ ;
Charles 1., in armour, 1. hand on
glass globe, Dobsonf — ^this picture
came from Browseholm (Rte. 83);
Cromwell, Fairfax, and Lambert,
all three attributed to Walker. In
the BiQiard-Toom are some graceful
Pompeian drawings, floating figures
on a black foreground; and here
also is a very fine Turner landscape,
— Thnrland, in the valley of the
Lune; a clear evening sky, against
which the old tower is projected.
In the HaXl, C^taurs and Lapi-
thsB, Luca Giordano; Cottaee-door,
WestaU. In the Library hangs a
portrait of Miss Currer, by Ma^
querier. There is a fine view from
the terrace in front of the house,
and a still finer from a path leading
to the gardens, ranging over a
richly-wooded foreground to Ryl-
stone and Flashy Fells. Eshton
Wood, N. of the house, contains
some very ancient ash-trees (the
place is named from the ash — "ash
(esh) town"), and is mentioned in
documents of the 12th cent
Some of the rarer volumes of Miss
Currer's libraiy have been dispersed ;
but among the important MSS. still
remaining here is the correspondence
of Dr. Bichardson, the naturalist,
with all the men of science of his
day, and some volumes of Dods-
worth's * Yorkshhre Collections.' The
park is traversed by a stream fed
from a n>ring called St. Helen's Well.
About 1} m. from Eshton is Friar's
Wood, an old house to which the
abbots of Fumess used to come for
hunting; and on a field near at
hand, three long parallelograms of
turf, called the "Giants' Graves."
Two becks meet at Eshton Bridge;
and above it, E., is Flasby HaU
(Captain Preston). The next
2} m. BeU Busk Stat is the nearest
to MaJham (5 m.)— «lo8e to which
are Gordale and Malham Cove, two
of the most remarkable scenes in
G^reat Britain. (The best Inn at
Malham is the Buck; and the land-
2d2
404
Boute 82. — Kirhby Malham — OordaU,
lord, if written to in time, will send a
trap to Bell Busk, where no convey-
ance is to be hired. This inn is at
the village of McUhamy a mile higher
up the.vallej, and nearer Gordale
than Kirhby MdUiamt where is the
ch.)
Detour to Malham artd Gctrdale.
[The road from the station follows
the upper valley of the Aire, — ^here
but a slender stream. (The ety-
mology is veiy uncertain. Oarus
Araxes, Arar, seem to contain the
same root.) The village of Kirkby
Malham is deep-seated among the
limestone hills, and is only inte-
resting for its ch., and its connec-
tion with the Lambert family. The
Chwchf which was given before the
reign of John to tiie Augustinian
canons of Dereham in Norfolk (who
held it till the Dissolution), is rerp.
The piers have niches on the W.
sides, with rude canopies, and mono-
grams. The font is Norm. At the
end of the S. aisle is a mural monu-
ment for John Lambert-nlied 1701
— son of the Parliamentarian general,
and the last male representative of
his famUy. At Calton Hall (now a
modem farmhouse) John Lambert,
afterwards the famous Major-General
of the Parliament's forces, was bom
in 1619. (The record of his baptism,
on November 7 of that year, remains
in the Kirkby Malham register —
which also contains the signature of
Oliver Cromwell (as witness to or re-
gistrar of a marriage), twice repeated.)
Lambert died, not in Guernsey, as is
generally asserted, but in the severe
winter of 1682-3, on St Nichoks
Island in Plymouth Sound, where
he had been bijought from Guemsey,
a prisoner, in 1667. See 'Choice
Notes from Notes and Queries,' —
History, p. 155.) His estates, for-
feited on the Restoration, were
granted to Lord Fauconberg, who
permitted the son of the major-
general to repurchase thenL He
lost his 3 sons in his own lifetime
and died the last male of his family.
1 m. beyond Kirkby Malham is the
village of Malham, where is the Buck
Inn. Hence the visitor should walk
to Gordale Scar and the " Cove," a
round of between 2 and 3 m. Oor-
dale should first be visited. (Gordale
= the narrow valley ? Gore = a slip, )
The stream which descends through
it, E. of the village, will be a suffi-
cient guide. The approach is between
two ranges of limestone cliffs ; which
offer nothing especially noticeable
until, on turning a projecting oor-
ner of rock, you find yourself in
front of the " chasm " as it is some-
times called. The impression is one
of absolute awe, especially if the
place ia visited alone, and toward
evening.
** Gordale chasm, terrlBc as the lair
Where the young lions couch/'
writes Wordsworth ; who was always
"full of praises of the fine scenery
of Yorkshire. Gordale Scar, near
Malham, he declares to be one of
the grandest objects in nature,
though of no great size. It has
never disappointed him." — R. C.
Robinson 8 Diary, vol. ii. P- 365;
and Pococke, according to Whitaker.
"who had seen all that was great
and striking in the rocks of Arabia
and Judea, declared that he had
never seen anything comparable to
this place.*' " I stayed there," says
Gray the poet, "not without shud-
dering, a quarter of an hour; and
thought my trouble richly repaid, for
the impression will last with life.**
Gk)rdale is first noticed, under the
name of Gordale, or the Quern (?)
by Dr. Lister, in his account of York-
shire plants added to Gibsons edi-
tion of Camden, 1695. It has been
compared to the ravine above Leba-
dea, in which is the sanctuary of
Trophonius ; and the semicircle of
Malham is not unlike the cliff abote
the fountain of Castalia at Delphi
The Craven limestone is not the
Bouie 32. — Oordale — Malham Cove.
405
same as that of Greece ; but the dry
watercourses, the underground pas-
sages of the streams, the cavernous
fissures and abrupt escarpments of
the rock, produce a certain general
resemblance which is worth noting.
The narrow glen is walled in by
limestone precipices (called Gordale
Scar) more tiban 300 ft. high, in
places overhanging their bases more
than ten yards, and stratified in thick
horizontal beds. At the end is the
" chasm " in the rock, through which
a stream (descending from Hiffh
Mark, E. of Malham Water — Uie
whole "dale" is about 1 m. long)
dashes in a series of waterfalls,
giving life to a scene which would
otherwise be almost too oppressive.
Above the first waterfall a mnestone
ridge unites the two sides of the
scar; and a hole through it, 8 ft.
high by 15 ft. long, gives a passage
to the water, which, it is said, first
burst through in 1730, after a vio-
lent thunderstorm ; but it is probable
that the whole fissure, however started,
has been enlarged by the action of
water. AU limestone regions are
more or less tunnelled and excavated
by the solvent action of the free
carbonic acid contained in the water
that has flowed over grass, peat, or
other vegetable matter. Oordale is
said to be especially grand in winter,
when the waterfall is frozen ; and a
most striking effect is sometimes pro-
duced when the full moon is above the
chasm.
The stream may be crossed at the
foot of the cascade, and it is possible
t/J ascend the rock by natural steps in
the fractured limestone. (The ascent
is easy, and is continually made by
ladies.) An upper fall is then dis-
closed, bursting through the solid
limestone wall, which thus forms a
natural bridge across the streanL
(Both falls may be seen from below,
by retiring under the projecting cliff
rt.) Primtda farinoMt ^ws on the
sides of the rock. Along the ledges
of the scars, which above the fall ex-
tend for some distance, tufts of yew
(possibly indigenous) grow in plenty ;
and in spring the rocks are bright
with golden oroom. There is a tra-
dition, which any one may believe
who chooses, that one of the Tempest
family once leapt his horse across
the chasm of Gordale. The base of
the mountain limestone is exposed
in the ravine, resting unconformably
upon Upper Silurian slates. A kind
of sandstone, containing Silurian -
pebbles, occasionally hes l^tween the
two formations, and is exposed in
Gordale beck. Fossil corals abound
in loose blocks of limestone near the
entrance to the glen.
Among the rare plants which
grow above and below the waterfall
are Palemanium exrtUeum (Greek
Valerian — ^fl. in June); G^tiana
amareUa (fl. in Aug. and Sept.);
G, campestris (fl. in Sept. and
Oct.); and Parnaana pcdustrU
(Grass of Parnassus — ^fl. Sept. and
Oct.). Primula farinosa (fl. June
and July) is plentiful in the wet
meadows below the chasm.
Having climbed to the top of the
chasm, you should walk across the
bills to Malham Cove— about 1 m.
The hills are covered with the short,
fresh greensward characteristic of
mountfun limestone; and here and
there patches of saxifrage enliven it
pleasantly. TThere is a wide view
S., with PencUe Hill rising a great
mass in front. Bt. are the serrated
peaks of the limestone hills N.
of Skipton; and below stretches
away the wide wooded valley of the
Aire, shut in at the sides by tum-
bled hiUs, broken with clefts and
hoUows.) Long ridges and Pots of
limestone (call^ Malham Lings), lie
along the surface nearer the Cove, to
whidi you must descend by a path
on the side farthest from Gordale.
The limestone on these "lings**
or upper flats is honeycombed in
the most complex manner conceiv-
able with convoluted furrows that
are compaiable to shallow glacier
406
Boute S2.—Malham Water.
crevasses, Many of them bear a
luxuriant yegetation of ferns within
them. They are evidently due to the
solvent action of water charged with
carbonic acid, and are well worthy of
a special visit as illustrating the
potency of this action. Maiham
Cove — (the name " cove,*' frequently
given to the deep limestone hollows
and fissures of this district, is perhaps
the Celtic " Ogof^= a caveV- is a
magnificent amphitheatre of rock,
285 ft high (the Lower Scar lime-
stone is here about 800 ft. thick),
seeming, as Wordsworth has described
it —
** by giants ncooped Ihiin oat the rocky
ground
Tier under tier. . .'*
From the foot of the cliff the Aire
springs to light at once, — ^a full
stream. *< The water is supplied by
subterraneous channels in the lime-
stone; some no doubt coming by
this means from Malham Water,** a
lake nearly 2 m. distant. '< Looking
up at the front of the Cove, we per-
ceive that, if the water came flowing
in abundance over the top, it would
make a cascade of almost unrivalled
grandeur; and it is said that such
an event has occurred, in conse-
quence of some choking of the chan-
nels from Malham Water, in time of
great floods."— P^ttttps.
The semicircle of tne Cove is part
of a long line of elevated limestone
cliff, beginning near KirkbyLonsdale,
and extending as far as Threshfield
in Wharfedale. This dislocation is
known to geologists as the " Craven
Fault," and is one of the grandest
examples in England. Malham
Cove and Giggleswick Scar are the
most important cliffs formed by it;
but at many points it causes enor-
mous vertical faces of limestone, op-
posed to Quite different strata on the
S. The limestone, at some unknown
period, dropped along the line of the.
fault, leaving the cliffs exposed.
The Cove should be seen both from
below and above. There is a flue
view from the summit; and (ioc
those who have good heads) a pAth
along the face of the rock, oa the
Projection of one of the ledges..
Imall trees and boshes of yew cling
to these, and root themselves in
eveiT crevice. Both E. and W. of
Malna-m the difference in contour
and vegetation between the liiue>
stone hms to the N. of the fault and
the grit hills to the S. is yery ap-
parent TrcUitu Europmus occurs
at the Cove; and Limestone Poly-
pody (Pclyp, caleareum). There ajne
some calamine pits on the bridle-
road to Settle (near the Cove) whic:h
abound in fossils, including trilo-
bites, usually rare in mountain lime-
stone.
Malham Water, or *' Malham
Tarn,-' is a small lake about 3 m. in
circumference, 2 m. above the Cove,
and 570 ft higher than the outlet
of the Aire at its base. It is 124t>
ft above the sea-level. This is the
most important " tarn " in Yorkshire,
and its wild seclusion gives it an
interest hardly due to picturesque
beauty. A modem house (belong-
ing to Walter Morrison, Esq.), has
been built on the further side of the
tarn, and is surrounded by flourish-
ing plantations. The lake abounds
with yellow and "silver*' titmt and
perch ; and was given to the monks
of Fountains by William de Perov,
temp. Stephen. A conflrmation of
this erant in 1175 mentions, besides
this lake, all the '' pastura '' of Mai.
ham " devereus rupee " — the rocks, no
doubt, of OoTdale. Fountain Fell
(1944 ft) rises N.W. of Malham
Tarn.
From Malham you may cross the
high moors to Settle (7 m.). These
moors form a joint of the Pennine
chain— the great " backbone cf Eng-
land," extending S. into Derbyshire,
and N. to the Scottish border. * They
constitute the watershed bett^een the
flowing into the German
' the Aire, and those running
Irish Sea by the Kibble ; and
JBott/e S^.-^-HelKfieldr—SeUle.
407
very fine views are obtained in cross-
ing tbem. Settle maj be reacbed
ei&er bj Malham Tarn, descending
by Langcliffe, — ^tbe longest road, but
ccomnanding magnificent views bade
over Malham and Airedale, and
(near Settle) over part of Ribblesdale,
with Ingleborongn soaring grandly
on one side, and Pen^ebent on the
other: or throngh MaDiam village,
over Highsides, by Atterm3nre Crags,
(see post). These moors are for ue
most part great sheep pastures, with
crags and ridges of limestone scat-
ter^ over them. There is little
heather. Saxifrages of different
species abound ; and the great flocks
of peewits that breed here aid the
effect of the solitude by their wild
*' eerie ** cries. The few small farms
on the slope of the hills are sheltered
by sycamore and ash trees. The
highest ground of the ridge is about
1700 ft.]
Returning to the rly., the first
Btatian beyond Bell Busk is
3 UL HeUifield Junct. Stat., where
is remaining a square " castelet " or
peel tower, built by Lawrence Hamer-
ton in the 19th year of Hen. VI. —
rather as a place of protection in
gtonny times than as a dweUing-
honse. It is now the residence of
John Haiuerton, Esq., whose family
is of great antiquity on the borders of
Lancashire and Yorkshire.
Bail to Clitheroe, Bolton, Liver-
pool, and Manchester.
[^MaUiam is Tf m. from here and
this is the best stat. for it when the
trains do not stop at BeU Busk.
Benson of the Beech Inn, Malham,
will send conveyance to meet the
train, if written to. Passing —
If m. Long Pretton Stat — ^the
oh. in the village has been restored,
and has some stained-glass windows
by Capronnier — ^we reach
4 m. SeiOe Stat.
Inns: Lion; good, old-fashioned
and comfortable ; Commercial, oppo-
site. Settle (A,-S. Seil=a. seat) is a
market-town of, in 1881, 5600Inhab.,
and the tourist will find it an excel-
lent centre from which to explore
the wild but most interesting coun-
try which surrounds it. Malham
Cove and Gordale (see ante^ may
well be visited from Settle. Ribbles-
dale and Penyghent are near at
hand; and Inj^eborongh and the
Clapham Caves are within a day's
excursion.
The town of Settle contains many
17th-cent. houses — showing its com-
parative wealth and importance at
that time. One house especiallv,
called "Folly Hall*' (now a farm-
house), close under Castleberg, is a
large and fine example of a Charles
U. mansion in Craven. The Eliza-
bethan town-hall and the ch. are
modem. At the back of the town
rises the Castleberg, a lunestonc
precipice 800 ft. high, capped by
a pinnacle of rock, and rendered
accessible by zigzag walks, planted
with trees. (It once served as a
gigantic sundial, and the time was
marked by its shadow thrown on
rocks placed at regular intervals.
These have long been removed.)
There is a tolerable view from the
top, — N. towards Penyghent, and S.
along the valley of the Ribble ; and
the visitor who has not more tunc
at his disposal should by all means
dimb the fell at the back of Castle-
berg. Thence he will get a fine
view of Ingleborough and the dis-
trict beyond — broken, rocky, with
uplands and green hollows stretching
away for a great distance. Between
Bummoor and Ingleborough the
faint blue range of the Westmore-
land- mountains is seen in clear
weather. The valley of the Ribble
opens N. and S.
The view of the valley from the
grounds of Anlq/ (John Birkbeck,
Esq.), between the station and the
town, is also very fine.
(1) Gigglenptck Stat on the Ingle-
408
Boute Si, — Oigglestoiek : Museutn,
ton Railway and the Ebbing Well.
The Ribble (the fonner part of tiie
word seems connected with the Celtic
r/ie= swift ; but the etymology is un-
certain) descends from Cam Fell, at
the head of Langstrothdale, and,
passing Settle and Clitheroe, runs
througn Lancashire to the sea below
Preston. The first cotton and thread
mills appear on its banks at Settle,
which IS in the parish of Gigglegtoick,
on the left bank of the river. From
the bridge there is a picturesque view
up the dale, with renyghent con-
spicuous ; resembling from this point
a huge plum-cake, — as Faley is said
to have remarked. The Church of
Giggleswick (dedicated to St Alkilda),
picturesquely placed, is Perp. and of
little interesft, except for its reading-
desk and pulpit— K)ne placed above
the other, and, to judge from the
forms of the panels, of fllizabethan
date. On the pulpit are the emblems
of the 12 tribes, with their names;
on the desk, in front, the inscription
— "Heare is the standardes of the
Israelites when the to Canan cam
agenes the Canaanites." This is a
good example of the carving which
was at one time the favourite winter-
night's work of the Yorkshire dales-
men; and the choice of subject
curiously illustrates the Puritanism
which made this comer of England
one of its chief strongholds. A brass
plate in the middle aisle commemo-
rates the Rev. William Paley, master
of the grammar-school here for 54
vearB— died 1799, — and his wife.
These are the parents of Archdeacon
raieyof the * Evidences ' and * Natu-
ral Theology '—who was bom in
July, 1748, at Peterborough, shortly
before his father removed to Giggles-
wick. The Paleys had been settled
at LangdifFe in this parish for some
generations.
Adjoining the church is a Cro$$
(14th cent. ?), and at no great dis-
tance the Grammar School^ a good
modem building, with a master's house,
and a hostel The school is one of the
best endowed in the north of Sngland.
Tt was founded bv Edw. VI. in 155S.
shortly before ;his death, at the
instance of John Nowel, the King-'s
chaplain and vicar of Giggleswick.
Some distinguished schoLus have
been sent into the world from G^iggles-
wick : among them Archdeacon
Paley, who was educated here under
his rather.
In the Muse^im attached to the
school is preserved a veiy large
collection of bones and other relics
found in the Victoria Cave (see po&i^
3). Of the Roman-Celtic clasB, are
— portions of bronze ornaments and
of glass vessels, fibulae, eanings.
and brooches, of very graceful form,
and some of them enamelled ; coins
of the period of the Thirhr Tyrants :
bone unplements, curiously carved;
iron fragments ; much potteiy, in-
cluding portions of Samian. Neo-
lithic, but of uncertain age, are —
bone implements and omainents;
combs; a bone spoon carved with
the head of a bird, and some eorioos
stone weapons. Among the booes are
rhinoceros, hy»na, bear, &c., and some
human teeth. (This museum is to
be seen on application.) Gtg^emridc
Scar, a long and fine range of lime-
stone cliffs, rises for some distance
above the road to Clapham, and, like
Malham Cove, marks the line of the
great Craven " fault.'' (See ai»«e.)
At the foot of the scar, close to the
road and not far beyond the village,
is an *' Ebbing and Flowing well,^ a
spring ^ of very irregular haoits,*^ says
Whitoker, which rises and flows at
uncertain periods into a stone basin.
"Variable pressure on the water,
derived from a curved or siphonal
passage underground, is the pnneiple
on which explanations have been
offered for this and similar springs
by Gough and other writers; and
the effect may be copied by arti-
ficial experiments,'* — PhiUip$, The
spring sometimes ebbs and flow?
many times a day ; but it is affected
by ike weather, and in diy aea^m^
Saute 32.— Attertnyre Cliffs— Victarta Cate.
409
it 18 useless to wait for the exhibi-
tion, the principle of which is the
same as that ot the Icelandic Qeej-
sere. The well has alwajs been
famous, and Whitaker suggests that
it maj have ffiven name to the parish
^called GugTesric in some ancient
chartexs, but Ghigeleswic in Domes-
day \ from the A.-S. g^gUan—io
bubble forth. Drayton (Poljolbion^
describes the fonntam as ** sometime
a nymph : —
** —Among the moanUlos high
or Craven, whose bine heads for cape put on
the sky.'*
Fljing from a Satyr, the " topic gods "
changed her to a spring ; and
•* JBven as the fearlU nymph then thick and
short did Mow,
Now made by them a spring, so doth she
ebb and flow.'*
(2) AUermyre CHifs, 2 m. E. of
Settle (aboye the road to Malham),
well deserve a visit. The great
castle-like walls of broken jointed
limestone, with green ledges running
across them, are here wonderfully fine,
and the artist will find magnificent
rock studies in all directions.
Under the cliff, rt of the road to
Kirkby Bialham, is Scaleber Force,
a small but picturesque waterfall
among Uurches.
After visiting Attermyre, the
tourist will do well to proceed some
S m. further, to the summit of Bye-
loaf, a ronnd*topped mountain of
iniUstone grit, 1794 ft high. There
is a vervwide view from it S. toward
Fendle Hill, and from its skirts, near
the road to Kirkbj Malham, a pictur-
esque view of Settle.
Some ancient zinc-mines are still
worked on the moor S. of Rjeloaf
(and S. of the road to Kirkby).
(3) Vidona Cave,— To the geo-
logist this is one of the most inte-
resting places to be visited from
SetUe. It Ues 1} m. N.£. of the
town, in the W. face of Langcliffe
Scar (hanging over the village of
that name), .and is about 1450 ft.
above the sea.. It is 1| of a mile
from the nearest point on the river,
and about 900 ft above it The
limestone in which it is excavated
dips N.N.W., and the main direction
of the cave is N.N.E. The cavern
was discovered by Mr. Jackson, of
Settle, on the Coronation-day of Q.
Victoria. He explored the surface,
and since 1870 the cavern has been
examined under the direction of a
committee. The result of the ex-
plorations has been that much of the
original evidence has disappeared,
and that we have to depena chiefly
on the accounts of Mr. B<^d Dawkins
(^ Joum. Anthrop. Inst,* I.) and Mr.
Tiddeman C Geol Miug.,' and < GeoL
Soc. Joum. Nov.). " The yppermo$t
beds contain deposits ransmg from
Neolithic to modem times, but chiefly
Bomano-Celtic. In this layer have
been found bronse and bone imjple-
ments and ornaments, pottery, corns,
and bones of the following animals :
Bos longifrons, goat, roe-deer, stag,
pig, horse, dog, badger, and other
smaller camivora and rodentia. The
Neolithic layer has yielded three
rude flint flakes, a bcoie harpoon, a
bone bead, and broken bones of the
brown bear, red deer, hone and
Bos longifrons; the bear possibly
bcdongs also to the Bomano-Celtic
layer. These lie on the surface of
the upper cave-earth. Below this
last is a bed of laminated clay, in
places 12 ft. thick, but variable,
which dips from the cential chamber
to the lateral chambers on the rt.
and 1. At some distance below this,
in the lower cave-earth, was a bone-
bed, containing remains of the fol-
lowing animals: — Elephas primi-
Stnius, Ursus spelaeus, U. priscus,
yana spelaea, Bhinocerus tichor-
inus, Bison, Cervus elephas. The
great question has been whether the
fioninated cla^ is of glacial age ; and
this supposition has been strength-
ened by the discoveiT of a bed of
drift containing scratched boulders
at the entrance of the cave, beneath
410
Souie 32. — Attermyre : << Backing Stones."
all the talus, but resting upon the
edges of the lower cave-earth and
the bone-bed. If it be so, the age of
the animals found in the bone-bed
is, of course, thrown back to a far
ereater antiquity than has been
hitherto ass^ed them; but dis-
coveries in Kent's Cavern and else-
where seem to confirm this view.
The remains in the uppermost bed
show that the cave had been used
as a dwelling or place of refuge
for a considerable period, during
the disturbed times which followed
the withdrawal of the legions from
Britain. The relics show an ad-
vanced state of art, and nothing but
the necessity of concealment could
have induced anv persons to take up
their abode in a phuse so wild and so
difficult of access. (For the relics
found here, see Giggleswick School,
ante.) Some of the ornament on the
brooches is not Boman, and the
Celtic character indicates that they
were made in this countrv. The
dehrtB fallen from the cliff, and
fonning the talus, 2 ft. thick, at the
mouth of the cave, has accumulated,
as is shown by remains found under
the talus, since the middle of the
8th cent. — about 1200 years.
[The so-called ^* rocking stones**
on the fells N. of Attermyre. arc
great blocks of Ribblesdale slate,
drifted or ice-borne from their native
beds, and deposited on the bare sur-
face of the limestone. They are
easUy moved; but the Druids are
probably guiltless of all part in the
matter. This slaty rock is in situ
about Horton in Bibblesdale, and its
ntast elevation there is about 1160
a Moughton Fell, the limestone
rising over it to the height of 1404
ft. Blocks of the slate have been
drifted S.W., S., and S.E., as far as
Austwick, near Ingleborough, Gig-
gleswick Scar, the hills over Settle,
and Malham. On the Settle hills
the blocks have been carried to a
height of 1850 ft., nearly, 200 ft]
above the highest part of the native
rock. "The blocks are very often
perched ; show no marks of abrasion :
no other drift matter is with than ;
they are collected sometimes into
small groups: and they may be re-
garded as having been uplifted and
floated by ice, and dropped on sur-
faces which had been swept by cur-
rents clear of other loose miatter. In
the lower ground the blocks have
been carried farther, are mixed with
other detritus, and sometimes show
marks of attrition in water." —
PhaUps.'}
(A) Walk hy LitUe Stainfwih.^
There is a very picturesque fall —
Stainforth Foss— on the Bibble here.
The walk may be — on the rt. bank of
the river, through the village of
Langcliffe, to Great Stainforth. Here
cross the Bibble, and a short distance
below the bridge is the fall, — a fine
scene, the river foaming down a sac-
cession of limestone steps, the bank
overhung with trees above mossy
rocks. A lane from the bridge leads
to the road on the rt. bank, by which
you may return to Settle. There are
excellent views of the fine scaurs
above the 1. bank, especially over
Langcliffe, in which is the Victoria
Cave. The road will be about .5 m.
Longer excursions from Settle may
be made (a) to Malham Core and
Gordale, going by Langcliffe and Mal-
ham Tarn, and returning bv the lower
road, under Attermyre. !rhe round
will be 14 m. (see p. 404 ; to Malham
from Bell Busk Stat., see above):
(h) up Bibblesdale to Horton and
Peuyehent ; and (c) to Clapham and
In^eoorough.
The Mi^nd Mailtcay runs up the
valley of the Bibble as far as Horton
Stat. The dale is pleasant and
picturesque, with occasional woods
skirting the sparkling Kibble ; scars
of limestone girdling the hOls on
either side, and beyond, the great
mountain masses olf Inglehoroogh
and Penyghent confronting each
Baute 32« — EorUm — PenygherU.
411
other across the intervening moor-
land. This part of Ribblesdale is
an excellent specimen of a quiet
Craven vallej, and the stream, but
for poachers, would be as ** troutful "
as the most eager fisherman could
desire. (There are some picturesque
falls on the Bibble below the village
uf LitUe Stainforth, called "Stain-
forth Foss," see ante (4:) ; and others,
called " Gatrieg Foss,'* on the Cowside
beck, which uJls into the Bibble at
Stainforth.)
The RI7. leads past quarries and
limekilns in the Craven bmestone.
G m. Horton Stat, lies between L
Ingleborough W., and Penyghent on
E. The village of Horton (Inns:
New Inn ; Grolden Lion, passable for
pedestrians) has a Church of some
interest. The arcade of main arches
and the font are Trans. -Nonn. The
tower is not ancient. In the E.
window is a fragment of stained
glass, with the head of Becket,
mitred, with aureole, and the words,
" Thomas sanctus." There is an
ancient Grammar School, of which
the buildings are modem.
Fenygheni may be ascended from
Horton; or the tourist maj drive
from Settle as far as Dale End (time
1 hr.), .thence send round his trap to
Horton, and climb the mountain from
Dale End, descending on the viUa^e.
From Dale End foUow the line of a
wall seen running up Penjghent
The climb is steep, but not at all
difficult. Allowing time for rest, it
takes 1 hr. to reach the top, which is
marked by a stake in a stone " raise."
Penyghent (2231 ft. — Pen-y-ghent
(Celt) =; the head of the roul or
ascent) figures in the old rhjone : —
** IngleboroaRh, Pendle-hill, and Penjghent,
Are the highert hilla between Scotland and
IVent."
In the district, with equal accuracy,
it was long thought to oe the highest
hiU in England. (Micklefell, 2600 ft.,
Bte. 27, is the highest in Yorkshire.)
The outline of the mountain is strik-
ing, especially from the lower part of
the valley, above Giggleswick. Peny-
ghent is of mountain limestcme,
capped with millstone-grit, which
encircles the top with a coronal of
crags. From its summit the view is
wide and very interesting (though,
says Phillips, not so interesting as
that from ingleborough), extending
N. to the mountains shutting in
Wensleydale, W. to Whemside and
Ingleborough, £. to the high moors
about Wharfedale, and S. to Pendle
Hill. Morecambe Bay and Fumess
are also visible. The long dividing
line of Bibblesdale is here very
marked. The side of Penyghent
which descends toward Bibble has
(low down) "several caves, pictur-
esque glens, and hollows in the scar
limestone."— P. The effect of this
view, however, depends greatly on
the lights and shadow which the
sky may fling on it. It is wild and
desolate, and the "pavement" of
limestone toward Ingleborough is
striking. The descent on Horton is
steep, but not difficult. (The artist
will remark that the " screes " of the
millstone-grit capping the hill are
red in co&ur, those of tiie limestone
purple.)
A remarkable band of slaty SUu-
rian rocks fills, in the neighbourhood
of Horton, ** what may be regarded as
a hollow space between two elevated
ranges of limestone," and extends
round northward to Sedbergh and
into Westmoreland. Under Hough-
ton Scar (across the Bibble, opposite
Horton), " an uncommon junction
may be seen of the limestone and
Silurians, with interposed beds not
known elsewhere. The Silurian
strata dip in various directions verv
steeply, but their top is nearly level,
as if cut off or planed away by some
great and* widely acting force, and
uie limestone lies level above them.'*
—PhiUifs, The limestone of all this
district is pierced in every dilution
with caverns, long subterranean pas-
sages, ^< swallow-holes," and deptibs
412
Bmte 32.— ITofton : Alum Pot^Cain FeU.
locallj called Pots, which are in fact
caves from which the roof has dis-
appeared. Of these the most re-
markable are — Alum or HeOen Pot,
near Selside (see pogt% SuU Pot, and
Hunt Pot, both on Horton Moor.
Hull Pot is visible as a deep hole in
the heath from the side of Peny-
ghent, and the pedestrian may take
it in his way to Horton. It is a
hollow, with great walls of lime-
stone, gloomy and mysterious. At
the far end are enonnons blocks,
fallen from the sides and roof, and
covered with moss. Water rashes
out from the side, and there is the
sound of a great fall within the
recesses of the rock. There is a
"swallow-hole" a little above, in
which a stream disappears, to emerge
in the " pot," the bottom of which is
not accessible. Sunt Pot, a little
S.W., is very similar.
Nearer Horton is a very pictur-
esque spot, cidled Dowk or Dove HoU,
Under a semicircle of scaurs a stream
falls among trees into a deep hole,
below.
Alum, AUen, or HeUen (Hele=:to
cover) Pot, at the foot of Simon Fell,
1 m. from Selside, is a long, deep,
gloomy cavern, with others called
Long Ohum and IMeean Pot, in
which, as in so many of these lime-
stone caves, there are subterranean
falls of water. **The Alum portion
is an immense hole in the ground,
perhaps 60 yards long by from 10
to 20 broad, and 800 deep, the lower
parts of which very few have ever
seen. The Long Chum and Diccan
Pot opening lies 150 yards W. of
Alum Pot .... The lower por-
tion leads into the great Alum rot ;
and after passing through a very
crooked cavern, with sharp turns and
alnrupt descents, *'we come into a
large and high chamber, rough with
protruding rocks, and standing in
the water-worn channel at the end,
see a gloomy gulf below us, and
right forward a glimpse of daylight
from Alum Pot."— {IT. S. BaM
* Walks in Yorkshire.')
Many of these caverns are inter-
esting and important to the geologist :
but the ordinary tourist will find the
Clapham Cave (see Bte. 32a) and the
very striking Weathercole Cave, near
Ingleton (Rte. 32a), far more easy of
access than any of tiie others, besdes
being probably the finest and most pir-
turesque examples. It should here be
said that it is unsafe to wander avn
the limestone hills after dark, on
account of the many chasms which
intersect the surface, some of which
resemble deep funnels of greeoswari
at the bottom of which the soanA d
flowing water is heard. These natu-
ral traps have frequently proved SttAi
to animals, and even to men.
Ling QiU (2 m. N.W. of Selade),
through which a stzeam descends to
the ]£bble, is wild and rouj^li. In
Brow QiU, ^ m. S., is a cave called
** One Hote," which has not be«i
thoroughly explored.
The extension of the Midland Bly.
from Settle to Carlisle passes through
this the wildest comer of Torksfaire,
and will be useful for tourists who
desire to explore it.. Even hiuTying
tourists will do well to take a rebDiu
ticket to Kirkby Stephen, and retura
at once, merely for the sake of the
scenery on tins line. The average
level of the line is 1200 ft» above
the level of the sea.
The Bly., a little beyond Horim,
leads by SeUide, under the NX
skirts of Ingleborough. Gam Fetf
(1026 ft) stretches out S.W. <rf the
Dod. (The view from the summit of
Cam Fell is very fine, with Ingle-
borough, Whemside, and Penyghent
conspicuous.) The Wharfe rises oo
the D. side of C!am, and on the W.
some of the small head-springs of
the Kibble. (The spring nraallT
called Ribble Head is nearer Gm-
stones.) Just after leaving Horton
Stat., the line cuts the glacial drift
and presents fine sections of this
passes over wild moorland, with
streams cuttinj^ through the houlder
daj ; Cow Gill is crowed hj an em-
bankment 80 ft above the stream,
and Blaek 3ibs8 or Bite EiU Tunnel
is entered, and the train emerges in
the valley of Garaidd^ and runs on
to
JJatMs Junct Stat. The Wensley-
dale and Lejrbum RIy. branches £. to
Hawes (Bte. 24).
From Hawes Junction, northwards,
the line proceeds over rolling moor-
land, breaking across wild transverse
valleys. Then plunging into a long
noble valley with stream on rt., and
fine range of hills beyond, it enters
Westmoreland, in which county is
the
KirlAy Stephen Stat., and to
AppUbyBUU,
Caklisle Stat. See HdbU. to the
Lake$.
Rtes. S2.—ItilMehead—Deni. S2A.—Shipt(m to Chpham. 413
kind of moraine matter known as
'• boulder clay," which is so hard in
this region, tiiat the navvies were
nnable to cut through with their
picks, and blasting was therefore
necessary. (Sebide, see on^e, is passed
2 m. further on the line.) The val-
ley now opens out with rolling
mounds of drift apparently left by
retreating glaciers, as they lie trans-
▼erse to the general slope of the
ground. One of these is cut through
and well displays their structure, jnst
before reachmg
BtbUehead Stat. (1 m. rt E. is
Oearstones. Tolerable Inn at Chapel-
le-Dale), 1} m. W. of Bibblehead, and
close to Weathercote Cave. This Stat.
lies between 1. 'Whemside, W. , and Cam
Fell, E. Here the scenery is remarkably
fine as the train runs on towards the
watershed of Blea Moor, passing over
Batty Moss Viaduct, thence along a
great embankment succeeding it to-
wards Whemside (2500 ft), which
seems to bar the way. To partially
avoid it, the line curves a little to
the rt, and the train enters the
Gutting and short tunnel that pre-
cedes the great BUa Moor TvmneL
The short tunnel passes under Foroe
Oillj which gave much trouble to the
engineers in makine the line. The
cuUing is chiefly through millstone-
grit and black marble. A.t 400 yards
from the S. end of the tunnel the
rails are 1500 ft above the sea, with
500 ft of mountain overhead. The
line now begins its descent towards
Carlisle, the drainage being north-
ward. Presently the train emerges
at the head of the Dent Valley, and
passes over the Dent Head YtadwA,
200 yards long, with ten semicircu-
lar arches rising 100 ft. above the
road below. The view, peering down
into this valley on 1., is magnificent
(See Bte. 24.)
Dent Stat, a village on the Dee,
was the birthplace of Adam Sedge-
wick, geologist, who is commemo-
rated by a huge block of granite
bearing his name. Next the train
BOUTE 32a.
SKIPTON TO CLAPHAM, INQLETON
KIRKBY L0N8DALE--THE YORK-
SHIRE CAVES.
[4 TraiDB d«Uy, 55 min., to Ingleton.]
This line diverges from Bte. 32,
beyond
EMfM Junct Stat\px^ qo
LongPreaUm^iaX. /«^ »^-
QiggUswiek Stat is close to Settle.
At ClafSum Junct Stat the Mid-
land Bly. from Skipton is met by a
branch from the Tebay Junct. (on
414
Boute 32a. — Clapham Ckwe,
the Carlisle and Lancaster BI7.),
wliich proceeds to Clapham by Sed-
bergh and Ingleton).
This is the stat from which to
visit the Clapham or LigUborough
Cave, and to make the ascent of the
mountain (unless Ingleton is preferred
for the latter). (See posL) Close to
the stat. is the Flying Horsethoe, a
comfortable Inn, but 1 m. from the
viUage. At the village is the New
Inn (comfortable and moderate in
charges), where the guide to the
. Cavern may be heard of. To see it
a single person is charged 2s. Qd,,
a party of 8 or 10, Is. each. Leave
must be asked at the steward's iionse
in the village for walking to the cave
(about 1} m.) through the beautiful
grounds of IngU^xmmgh MaU (J. W.
Farrer, Esq.).
Clapham (the name is probably
identical with the Surrey Clapham =
Clapa's ham or home) is a pleasant,
bright village, with a broad ** beck "
running through it, and Ligleborough
rising above. A white gate at the
head of the village opens to the
grounds, and close within it the road
divides. The 1. road leads to the
cave ; that rt. to a waterfall artifi-
cially formed on the Clapham beck
— a picturesque scene. The 1. road
soon opens to a tarn, of which the
banks are covered with larch and
fir plantations, and at the back are
Clapdale scaurs, sprinkled with
yews. Keeping still to the 1.,
through the wooded glen of the
beck (where Listera ovata and many
other limestone plants grow abund-
antly), you come to a limestone scaur
half-hidden by foliage. Li this is
the cave, with a low opening; and
just beyond, the stream rushes out
of the rock and is crossed by a
bridge. The cavern — ^which is ne-
cessuily kept locked, or the stalac-
tites would soon disappear — so far as
it is now known, extends 2106 ft.,
nearly half a mile from the entrance.
There is little difficulty in passiii^
through any part of it, and ladies,
with a due consideration for their
dress, may safely make the adven-
ture.
The cavern is throughoat in Ihe
limestone. The first 80 yards have
always been known to exist : but it
was not until about the year 18^
that the wall of stalagmite which
seemed to close the cave was broken
through, and the rest of the cavern
gradi^y explored. At the extreme
end a stream of water falls into a
deep pool, which Mr. Farrar explored
by swimming, and found all progress
stopped by a wall of limestone, — the
" Heart of Ingleborough." The** Old
Cave" is lined "with a brown in-
crustation resembling gigantic dus-
ters of petrified moss.*' This is sta-
lactite over which water has ceased
to run, and which then loees its
snowy whiteness. The New Cave
beyond this portion is very different
and of extreme beauty. A passage,
lined with masses of white, guttering
stalagmite, rising in vaiioos sh^ies
to the roof, leads to the Pillar Hall,
where the roof is studded with sta-
lactites of all form and dimensions,
some having united with the stalag-
mite rising from the floor so as to
form transparent pillars. There are
pools of water on the floor and at the
sides, and at the end a deep hollow
called the Abyss. The growth of
one of the stalagmites here, called
the Jockey's Cap, was carefully mea-
sured in 1851 (it is fed by a single
line of drops), and it was then found
that, at the rate of 100 pints of water
a day, containing 100 enins of nl-
careous earth, tiie Jockey Cap bad
taken 259 years to attain its burly size.
Beyond the Pillar Hall the pas-
sage is very narrow, and you have to
creep forward for a few yards into
the Cellar Oallenr— long, tnnnel-ltke.
and without stalactites. This leads
into the CKant's HaU, — again a mag-
nificent mass of stalactite and sta-
lagmite, and containing in its side
two small holes leading to a lower
level, from which issaes the sound d
Boute 82a« — Cla^ham Cave — Ingleborough. ' 415
a torrent, falling in perpetual dark-
ness. It must luive requured no small
courage to venture on the exploration
of this gloomy hollow.
*< The roof and sides of the cavern
are everywhere intersected by fissures
which were formed in the consolida-
tion of the stone. To these fissures/*
adds Prof. Phillips, ** and the water
which has passed down them, we
owe the formation of the cave and its
rich furniture of stalactites. The
direction of the most marked fissures
is almost invariably N.W. and S.E.,
and when certain ^master fissures*
occur, the roof of the cave is usually
more elevated, the sides spread out
rt. and 1., and often ribs and pendants
of brilliuit stalactite, placed at regu-
lar distances, convert the rude fissure
into a beautiful aisle of primeval ar-
chitecture. Below most of the smaller
fissures hang multitudes of delicate,
translucent tubules, each giving pas-
sage to drops of water. Splitting
the rock aboire, these fissures admit,
or formerly admitted, dropping water :
continued through the floor, the larger
rifts permit, or formerly permitted,
water to enter or flow out of the cave.
By this passage of water, continued
for a^es on ages, the original fissure
was in the first instance enlarged,
through the corrosive action of streams
of acidulate water; by the with-
drawal of the streams to other fissures
a different process was called into
operation. The fissure was bathed
by drops, instead of streams of water;
and these drops, exposed to air cur-
rents and evaporation, yielded up the
free carbonic acid to the air, and the
gait of lime to the rock. Every line
of drip became the axis of a stalac-
titieal pipe from the roof ; every sur-
face bathed by thin films of liquid
became a sheet of sparry deposit.
The floor grew up under the drop-
pings into fantastic heaps of stalag-
mite, which, sometimes reaching the
pipes, united roof and floor by pillars
oC exquisite beauty." — ^» Rivers and
Mountains of Yorkshire,' p. 31.
White rats inhabit the cave, and
fresh -water Crustacea (among the
rest, Gammarus pulex) are found in
the subterranean s^eauL
Sand and pebbles from the hills
above lie plentifully in certain parts
of the cavern. These have been con-
veyed into it by the water, which, in
all probability, finds its main en-
trance by a deep cavity in the lime-
stone on the hiU-side above, called -
*' Gaping GhyU" This is on much
higher ground than the cave, and is
an enlargement of the natural fis-
sures of the stone. It is about 840
ft in depth (the first landing-place
is 190 ft. deep ; from it the U>ttom,
about 60 ft. lower, may be seen), —
and a <* beck '* flings itself into it with
a grand fall in rainy seasons. Half-
way down this great opening a " sub-
terranean " stream enters it from the
side: the water thus swallowed up
percolates through the fissures and
hoUows of the limestone, and then
reappears near the mouth of the cave
at an opening called ** LUde Bedt
Head," The sand and pebbles
brought in by the water have as-
sisted in excavating the cavern.
Gaping GhiU Hde should be
visited ; and above it is another deep
*<pot'' (at least 360 ft), discovered
in 1872 by Professor Hughes.
Inaleborough may be ascended from
Clapham with ponies, going round
by Newby Cote, The pedestrian may
walk through the grounds to the
cave, and then proceed upward by
Gaping Ghyll. The distance either
way is about 4 m. The ascent of
Ingleborough— that "huge creature
of GK)d," as the poet Gray calls it in
one of his letters — is nowhere diflS-
cult. The hill (like many others) is
popularly said to be a mile high. It
is really 2361 ft above the sea;
higher than Penyghent (2231 ft.),
but not so high as Whemside (2414
ft). But the mass and necniliar out-
line of Ingleborough render it a better
landmark than either of its neigh-
416
Boute 32i. — InglAorough — Ingleton.
hour hills, and it is perhaps, more
than any other, the great ** represen-
tative ** of the Yorkshire mountains.
(Micklefell, in the N.W. comer of
t))e coimtj, is the highest, 2600 ft)
The niasB of Ingleborou^h consists of
three ver/ distinct portions, — ^Ingle-
horoogh itself on the S., and Simon
Fell and Park Fell suecessivelj N.
The whole mountain is composed of
aUty shales and limestones, capped
hy thick heds of millstone-grit, the
limestone forming vertical clifis or
hands, while the shale is worn to
slopes. The summit of Ingleboroagh
itself, rarely free from clouds, is a
broad leveL There is a small irre-
gular camp (British ?) on the S. side
of the hill, and on the summit what
has been regarded as a walled hill-
fort, resembung some of those in N.
Wales and in mUuid, and containing
the foundations of huts. The area
enclosed is more than 15 acres, the
figure is irregular, and the wall a
little within tiie rocky crest of the
mountain. There are 3 openings
through the wall, which is of vaiying
height. The hut-foundations, 19 in
number, are horseshoe-shaped, and
are scattered irregularly over the
area. A grander watch-tower than
this fort can hardlv be imagined.
The view is magnificent and most
interesting, embracing all the neigh-
bouring mountain groups, besides
others in Westmoreland and Cumber-
land, and extending far S. beyond
Pendle HiU, in Lancashire, to St
George^s Channel, which is visible at
Morecambe Bay; Ingleborough is a
landmark for ships off the Lancashire
coast. Among tne ferns on the lime-
stone sides of the mountain are Poly-
podium caloareumy AUo$oru$ crUptu,
Pdytiiekum LcmchitUt and Botry-
ehiwn Lunaria. The Cloudber^
iRubua ehanuemonu) is found on the
highest summit; and on the moun-
tain (high up) Salix herbaeea — a
Scandinavian jj^ant, one of the linger-
ing survivors of a '* flora ** imported
to Britain before the glacial period.
when these mountains and raUevs
were wrapped in a thick robe of ice.
BS Greenland is at present. The
rounded and striated nill-sides aad
summits, over which we gaae fntn
the top of InglebcNTOugh, still bear
witness to the glaciers and iee-cur-
rents that once moved slowly along
and over them to the low coontrr
beyond.
[A good pedestrian may cross la-
gleborough from Clapham, and, de-
scending to the Ingleton road, visit
Weatheroote Cove and Chapel -1(^
Dale, and thence proceed to Ingleton.
The distance altogether will be about
12 m.]
From the C3apham Junct we reach
4i m. Ingleton Stat (Inn: the
Ingleborough Hotel; and an old-
fashioned inn, the Wheataheaf .) The
village is very picturesquely placed
above a rocky beck, and at the
junction of two valleys, divided by
the mountain of Whemside. (A trap
may be hired here.)
The views from the station are
fine, with the flat top of Ingleborough
conspicuous above rocky scaurs ; and
at the top of the hill above the
village, where the road opens to the
** Dale," the view is especially notice-
able, with the Westmoreland moun-
tains, peaked and serrated ^dilfenng
in their slate outlines from we rime-
stone), in the far distance. Ingleton
Church contains Norm, portions (piers
and font, which is of the local marble,
and curious), but was partly rebuilt
in 1743. The place is noticeable
from the use whicn Sonthey has made
of it in his * Doctor.' Daniel Dove
was at school here, and here he
saw Rowland Dix<m's puppets. The
tourist should at all events find bis I
way from Ingleton by the Hawes
road to the " Doctora '^ birthplace at
Chapel-le-Dale, and to Weatheroote i
Cave, bevond it '
(a) lliere is a good view on the
stream (the Dale beck, which descends
Baute 32a.— Chapel-le-Dale—WeatTiercate Caoe. 417
Chapel-le-Dale, and, after its junc-
tion with the Kingsdale beck below
Ingleton, forms the Oreta river, flow-
ing into the Lnne) above Ingleton,
and the whole coarse of the beck as
fax as Beeslej, 1} m. from Ingleton,
is very pietoresqae; bat the road
which leaids up the dale beyond, with
Whemside on the 1. and Ingleborough
rt., offers no very remarkable scenery
until Ghapel-le-Dale (4 m.) is reached.
(On the western slope of Ingleborough
are some deep ** Fots " or caverns —
MeregiU, BarefoatrwiveSn Hardravh-
kin, and Great and LitUe Dowh —
bnt none having the beauty or im-
portance of Weathercotcs.)
At ChapMe-Dale the mountains
shuttinff in the Quiet pastoral dale
are well seen. The little chapel,
with the ** manse" adjoining, lies
between the road and the stream,
and a very short distance above it is
the old farmhouse which Southey
has pictured as the ancestral home
of the Doves. Often as his perfect
and most accurate (except that there
is no porch) description of the chapel
has been quoted, it must be read on
the spot : —
** The little ch. called Chapel-le-
Dale stands about a bowshot from
the family house. There they had
all been carried to the font; there
they had each led his bride to the
altar ; and thither they had, each in
his turn, been borne upon the shoul-
ders of their friends and neighbours.
.... A hermit who might wish his
grave to be as quiet as his cell could
imagine no fitter resting-place. On
three sides there was an irregular low
stone wall, rather to mark the limits
of the sacred ground than to enclose
it ; on the fourth it was bounded by
the brook, whose waters proceed by a
subterranean channel from Weather-
cote Cave. Two or three alders and
rowan-trees hung over the brook, and
shed their leaves and seeds into the
stream. Some bush^ hazels grew at
intervals along the Imes of the waU ;
and a few ash-trees as the winds had
CrarfcsWfs.]
sown them. To the east and west
some fields adjoined it, in that state
of half cultivation which gives a
human character to solitude; to the
south the common, with its limestone
rocks peering everywhere above
ground, extended to the foot of
Ingleboroagh. A craegy hill, fea-
thered with birch, shdtered it from
the north.
** The turf was as soft and fine as
that of the adjoining hiUs; it was
seldom broken, so scanty was the
population to which it was appropri-
ated; scarcely a thistle or a nettle
deformed it, and the few tombstones
which had been placed there were
now themselves naif-buried. The
sheen came over the wall when they
listed, and sometimes took shelter in
the porch from the storm. Their
voices, and the cry of the kite wheel-
ing above, were the only sounds
which were heard there, except when
the single bell which hung in its
niche over the entrance tiiuded for
service on the Sabbath day, or with
a slower tongue gave notice that one
of the children of the soil was re-
turning to the earth from which he
sprung."
After lingering in this quiet place,
Weatheroote Cave must be visited.
The first gate L beyond the chapel
leads to Mr. Metcalfe's house— the
original of Daniel Dove*s — where the-
key will be furnished. (Is. is charged
for each visitor.) Weathercote is,
without exception, the most pictur-
esque of the many Yorkshire caves ;
and it would be difficult to find else-
where as striking a scene of the same
character. The "cave" is now a
deen, rocky chasm, with a waterfall
at the farther end. The cave is en-
tered by a steep flight of steps, under
overhanging blocks of stone, touched
here and there with ferns and mosses.
At the bottom vou find yourself in
front of the fall — 80 ft in height —
descending among huge blackened
blocks with a deafening roar, and in
a dim half -twilight. The trees and
2 E
418
JBottto S2A.—Whem8ide.
bushes meet above the line of the
chasm. The stream leaps from a
hollow at least 80 ft. below the sur-
face; and immediately above it a
huge mass of rock is suspended be-
tween the cliffs at the side. Onsnnny
days, between 11 and 12, a rainbow
hangs over the spray of the fall,
tingeing the mosses with its coloors.
This eSed is well worth seeing ; but
the solemn grandeur of the scene is
independent of weather. A recess at
the side of the fall, which it is pos-
sible to gain, affords a good new of
the manner in which ue water is
swallowed up among the pebbles, to
reappear below. You may even g:et
bemnd the fall and look through it,
as at Hardraw ; but at the risk of a
good wetting. The stream which
supplies the fall disappears under-
ground on the moor about 1 m. higher
up. In winter, or after much rain,
the whole cave is full of water; and
small fir-trees, brushwood, and rushes,
which have been brought down by
floods, are seen entangled among the
bushes above the opening. Westall
and Turner have illustrated Weather-
cote — ^which majr well attract the
artist, as it will certainly try his
powers. A little above the entrance
to the cave, rt. of the road, is a
humUe but comfortable Inn.
Between Weathercote and Chapel-
le-Dale are two great crevices or
eaves in the limestone, Gingle Pot
and HurUe Pol, The first is usually
dry and about 80 ft deep. The other
contains a pool of unknown depth, in
which are small trout. The water
from Weathercote is perhaps con-
nected with this pool. 1 m. above
Weathercote is CfateHdrk Cane, tra-
versed by the stream that fonns the
Weathercote Fall. Gatekirk was once
enriched with stalactites, but the
greater part has been destroyed by
visitors. It is about 80 ^ards long,
and is perhaps worth seeing, thou^
far less important than the Claphiuin
Gave. (See ante.) Ton may walk]
across the base of Whemside (about
3 ol) to Kingsdale. (See potL)
BMleheadStAt (Bte. ^) is li m.
from Weathercote and (^pel-le-
Dale.
[The Inn at G^orstonet QNBe Bte^ 32)
is 3 m. from Chapel-le-Bale. The
road hence to Hawes r9 m.) is some-
what desolate, with wide, far-stretch-
ing lull-slopes, and no special points
of interest J
(6) Whemtids forms a long insu-
lated mass, 2414 ft high, and by no
means so picturesque in its ootunes
as Ingleborough or Penyghent : like
them, it is of limestone, c^ped with
millstone-jnit, and is easily ascended
from the £. or S.E. It is ste^ and
difficult on its western face — over
Dent Dale.
Whemside (or rather tiie kng spur
which it throws out S.) separates the
two valleys which unite at Ing^eton.
The western valley, Kingddaie^ ecm-
tains some veir interesting scenery.
It is a long glen in the scar lime*
stone, which, at Thornton Force, 1 m.
from Ingleton, joins the slaty rock,
much quarried in the neighbourhood.
ThomUm Force is a waterf aU ol 90
ft., poured " from a ledge of limestosie
over a breast of slate— the horiaontel
beds of the upper part contrasting
curiouslv with the angularly meeting-
points Delow."^P. Fzom Ihgletan
the walk to the Force along the ridfe
of the glen, on the rt side of the
stream, should be followed. The
whole wooded ravine is striking ; and
all the accompaniments of the fall —
trees, rocks, and backgrouid — ^wiH
delight the artist Behind Thonton
Force stretches JSavm Bay, a deep
pass between high rocks ; and beyoM
it, Kingsdale— a long, narrow glen,
between Ingleton FdOa (the lower
spurs of Whemnde) and a long lidge
called Oragrdh, Kingtdalem weU
worth penetrating, at least as high
as Yoraas Gave, 4| m. from Ingleton.
Gnuid scars of rock towenqtwiids on
Bouie SS.—SetOe to ChaOmm.
419
its W. tide. T&rdoB Cave (so called
from a traditional giant, whose cham-
ber and oven are pointed ont in the
limestone) is at the foot of the upper
slopes of Gragreth. It is a grand
limestone ca?em, rich in stalactites,
^th 2 chambers; the first, 60 yards
long hj more than 20 yards high ;
the second, circular, with pillars of
stalactite, and (in wet seasons) a
cascade, cohooslj enclosed within an
inner hollow. (To see Yordas Gave
it is necessary to write beforehand to
Hr.Whittingdale,of Westhoose, Bent-
ham, fixing the time for the visit.)
GingUna Pot, and BotoUng Poi^ are
deep hollows in the limestone, i m.
S. of Yordas, and higher up the side
of Ghagreth.
[Across the hill, west of Yordas
Care, and in Lancashire— Tthe York-
shire horder runs along tne top of
Oragieth,— Den^ Crag, 2253 ft, a
little farther N., marks the junction
ci Yorkshire, Lancashire, and West-
moreland)—is Easgill, a veiy remark-
able valley on a stream which de-
scends to the Lune. The upper part
of jEasgill is of limestone, wasted by
water and storm into all manner of
fantastic shapes, and full of small
windmg caverns, partly laid open by
the falling of the limestone. This
mass of open caverns, about which
there is much wood, is known as
JEasgiU Kirk, and is well worth a
visit. EatgiU itself, shut in by steep
precipices, opens into a wider and
very Deautifu valley, to which the
slate rock gives a totally distinct
character. These very interesting
scenes are best visited from Kirkby
Lonsdale. (See Handbook for Weit-
moreHand,) In walking to the village
of Thortdcn in Lonsdale, 1 m. W. of
Ingleton, ron pass from the limestone
to the tiate — with a change of
scenery, from wild moor to rich
pasture, whkh is positiveljr startling.
Thornton Ch. (restored) is of some
interest* since portions are early, and
then is a range of Norm, arohes H-;
tween nave and N. aisle, besides a
Norm, tower-arch. Near it is a
country Inn, with the date 1072 on
its front, which might do for a tourist
not too exacting.]
(From IngleUm you may proceed
by rail to Kkkby Lonsdale and Sedr
bergh (Bte. 24) ; and thence up Gars-
dale and Wensleydale,. by Hawes, to
Leybum. (Bte. 24.)
ROUTE 33.
SETTLE TO CHATBURN. (QI8BURNE,
SAWLEY ABBEY).
The railway htim Settle to Clhat-
bum, in Lancashire, joins the line
running by Blackburn and Bolton to
Manchester. It follows the valley of
the Bibble; and near HeUifield, on
the line between Settle and Skipton
(Bte. 82), there is a junction with the
Midland Bly., from Settle to Carlisle
(Bte. 82).
The valley of the Bibble between
HeUifield and Gisbume is in parts
yeiT prettr, green and pastoral. At
Halton there is much wood, and
Penyghent is conspicuous in the dis-
tant view, N.
Oislmme Stat (Innt Bibblesdale
Arms, a comfortskble old-fashioned
house, characteristic of old Craven
buildiiig, with the date 1035 over the
porch). This is a quiet village, the
character of which is likely to be mndi
2b2
420
Boute SS.—Oishume Park— Bolton HaU.
changed by the railway. The Cli urch^
late E. E. and Dec, with Perp. tower,
hajB been restored, and stands in a
Gh.-yd. sQZTOunded by fine sycamores,
in one of which the curfew-bell was
lon^ hang.
OUbume Park (Lord Bibblesdale)
opens close from tne Tillage, and is
v^ pleasantly phiced at the con-
fluence of the Bioble and Stockbeck.
The park is varied, with much fine
wood and broken ground, and there
are some very striking views into and
across the wooded glen through which
the Ribble here passes. The house
(which is modem, and of little archi-
tectmal character) is shown in the
absence of the family, and contains
some interesting puiurea. In the
Library is a portrait of Major-(}en.
Lamb^ (see Kirkhy Malham, Rte.
82). The Drawing-room, among
other good pictures, contains — Tho-
mas Lister, first Lord Bibblesdale — a
boy of 13--a most graceful portrait,
hj Sir /. Beyndds; Beatrix Lister,
his sister. Sir /. Beynolds ; Henrietta
of Orleans, and an Infanta of Spain,
both by Vandyck; and Martin By-
caut (a duplicate of the picture at
Warwick), also Vandyck; Flowers
and Fruit, Van (h : and Diana and
Acteon, FUippi (?). In other rooms
are — Tobit and the Angel, Qward
Dow ; Gh&teau of Muyden, in Guil-
dres, Cuyp; 1st Lord Bibblesdale,
8ir Tho8. Lawrence ; William III.*s
Yacht, BackhuyBcn ; President Bnid-
shaw. Walker; CJromwell, Sir P.
Lely, (On the canvas is the word
** Now," referring perhaps to the
mandate signed by him for the im-
mediate execution of the King. This
picture was brought from Galton
Hall, the old home of the Lamberts,
and may have been Cromwell's own
present to the General.) Attomgr-
Ueneral Lee, Sir J. Befmolde; Sir
Martin Lister, Jansaens ; Miss Asshe-
ton, as a shepherdess, Dahl; Gis-
bume Park in 1730, with portraits of
the Listers, and the white cattle in
the background, NoCUkem.
The last of the white cattle kept
for many ages in Gisburne Park were
killed off in 1859. Only two or iJiree
remained ; and there was noprospect
of perpetuating the race. iTier dif-
fered from the wild cattle of Chilling-
ham in Northumberland, and of Cad-
zow near Hamilton, in being without
horns, but were like them in all
other respects — white, with Uack
muzzles, feeding toward dusk, and
showing a wild, half -savage nature.
A curious ancient drinung-hom is
E reserved at Gisburne Park. It is the
om of a buffalo, containing about 2
quarts and supported on 3 silver k^
Bound it are silver filetings with in-
scriptions, one of which runs, '* Qui
pugnat contra tres perdet dnoa."
[On the rt. bank of the BibUe, 3
m. below Gisburne, and very jmc-
turesquely placed, is BoUon Matt
(C. B. E. Wright, Esq.), O^eneraUv
called « Bolton-by-Bolland ^^t is in
that forest — ^to distinguish it frtHn the
many other Yorkshire Boltons), the
ancient house of the Pndsays, still
interesting in spite of much altera-
tion. Parts of it are perhaps as earir
as the reign of Edw. DDL, especially
the hall, and the adjoining <^ King's
Boom " with a chamber ciQled Pais-
dise over it. Almost immediateW
after the battle of Hexham (May lo.
1464) Henry VI. reached Bolton as a
fugitive, and was concealed here by
Sir Balph Pudsay, a zealous Lancas-
trian. A well adjoining the house is
called " King Harry's," and is said to
have been willed and protected as s
bath for the unfortunate monaitfa.
who found some months of repose
among the quiet woods of Bolton : —
"Given not the hawthorn bush 'a »w«t»
Bhade
To Bhepherdfi, looking on their riUy nbeep.
Than doth a rich embroidered canopy
To Iclnga that fear their aul«|e^* toeach-
ery?
—jr. Ben, ri., «. riT^matiK,^
From Bolton King Henir visited
I Fracewell, Whalley Abb^, and Wad-
SauU 9B.—BoU(m Clwrch^Saioley AVbey. 421
dington Hall, at which last place
(about 6 m. farther down the river,
on the Yorkshire side) he was taken
by Sir James Harrington, after more
than a jear of concealment. Wad-
dington then belonged to the Tem-
pests ; and a monk of Whallej seems
to have been the King's betrayer.
Waddington Hall has lost all its
ancient features. A pen-case, brought
from there, which belonged to Henry
VI., is now among the treasures of
Parham in Sussex. The limestone
about Bolton is cavernous, though not
to the extent of that forming the
North Craven hills.
The banks of the river here are
very beautiful and finely wooded.
Not far beyond the house is a scaur,
colled " Pudsay's Leap," from which
one of the Pudsays is said to have
leaped on horseback, when pursued
by the queen's (Elizabeth's) officers.
He had been "false coining" with
lead found on his land; and after
escaping he is said to have made his
way at once to the queen, who pro-
mised him pardon for everything but
murder. (Some of his false silver
pennies still exist in Craven.) Far-
ther down the river is a fine point,
called Denholm Wheel, or WeU
(well ?). There is a sulphur spring
near tiie scaur, and others in the
neighbourhood.
Bolton Church,elmost entirely Perp.,
is possibly the work of the same Sir
Baiph Pudsay who sheltered Henry
VI., and deserves a visit. The font,
of grey marble, has on its 8 sides the
shields of Pudsay and of connected
families. On a brats let into the
marble is the inscription : — *^ Orate
p' a'i'bu' D*ni Badulphi Pudsay,
Afilit. et D'ne Epw*ne uxor* ejus, ac
Dm Wil'i quondam filii eoru'd, rector'
huj' ecd'ic^' On the S. side of the
choir is the Pudsay chapel, of later
date than the rest of the ch., and
against its N. wall are the brasses of
ifeury Pudsay, "Amiiger, dominus
do Bolton, qui construxerat banc can-
tariam, et obiit udul" f he is in an
heraldic dress), and his wife Margaret
Between this chapel and the chancel
is a remarkable high tomb, covered
with a slab of Craven marble, 10 ft.
by 6 ft, having on it, in low relief
— ^above, the figures of a Pudsay and
3 wives, with figures below each, 6,
2, 17, referring to the numb« of their
children; and below, smaller figures
of these 25 children. It is raised on
a white altar-base, with shields. The
Pudsay who rejoiced in these numerous
olive-branches was Sir Balph, the
faithful Lancastrian, and the probable
re-builder of the ch., and an inscrip-
tion records the restoration of tne
tomb *^by his descendant and heir
Pudsay Dawson, of Hornby Castle,
Esq.," in 1857. The Pudsay motto,
" Penser pen de soy," appears on the
tomb, and the arms, a chevron be-
tween 3 stars, are on the knight's
breast, his folded hands being inge-
niously arranged to form the oievron.
In the chapel are modem monu-
ments for H. A. Littledale, Esq., who
represented the Pudsays through
the Dawsons, and for others of ms
family.
(At Bolton the road from Skipton
joins that from Settle to Burnley.
The Settle road runs for much of its
course through the valley of the
Bibble, and is pleasant. Ijiere is a
pleasanter road from Bolton to Settle,
however, by Forest-Becks to Wiggles-
worth (where is a medicinal spring.
In Tosside Chapel^ 1 m. 1., is a curious
font of late date), and thence by
BathmeL The distance by either
road is nearly 12 m.)]
Si m. from Gisbume, in the vale of
the Bibble, and just above the point
where that river becomes the boun-
dary between Yorkshire and Lanca-
shire, are the ruins of Satdey Albey
(CHstercian). The actual remains are
very slight, and of little architectural
importance ; but the ground-plan, by
the direction of the Marq. of Bipon,the
present owner of the abbev; has been
Smtie 9S.—8awley AUbey.
422
most carefuUy traced; and in this
respect Sawl^ is as intBUijrible as
Fountains, St. Mary's at York, or
Jervanlx — ^the only othor monastic
houses in Yorkshire which have been
properly excavated.
Sawley (no doubt, as Whitaker
suggests, the *< willow field," teaX,
A.S. =a willow) was founded in 1147
by William de Percy, Lord of Top-
cuffe and Spofforth, and of the whole
of BibblesdAle within Graven. The
house (which was dedicated to St.
Mary and St. Andrew, and known as
*' Mons Sti Andres de Sallay *^ was
colonised from Newminster in North-
umberland— the first o£bhoot from
Fountains : but about 40 years after
its foundation, the poverty of Sawley
was so great that it would have been
suppres^, had not Maud Countess
of Warwick, the daughter and heiress
of the founder, granted to it the ch.
of Tadcaster, and 100 acres of land in
Calton, where she was bom. The
last abbot, William Trafford, was con-
cerned in the Pilgrimage of Grace,
and was accordingly hanged at Lan-
caster (1587). Tne4iouse, which was
then dissolved, was mnted to Sir
Arthur Darey, one of the Korthem
Commissioners for the 8uif)>ression.
From him it passed through many
hands to its present owner.
The site of Sawley can never have
been so secluded as those of other
Cistercian houses in Yorkshire ; but
the highway, which now runs close
to the ruin, was originally on the W.
of the mill-stream ; and the park or
close, of about 50 acres, quite sur-
rounded the abbey. This close, which
was entered by two gates called N.
and S. port, has been cleared M ho-
vels and fences ; and from the high
ground above it there is a very fine
view up and down Bibblesdale. The
old poverty of the house is shown by
the rough material (black shale and
boulder-stones) with which the build-
ings were constructed, until shortly
before the Dissofution, when ashlar
stono was used. The Church was in
progress of alteration when the house
was suppressed ; and the plan, owing
to the condition in whicn the work
was arrested, is at first pendexing.
The first ch. was cruciform, but with
the great peculiarity that the length
of the transept exceeded that of the
united nave and choir by 12 ft Nave
and choir were aisleless. The tran-
sept had 8 eastern chapels in eadi
wing. The short nave, of which the
walls remain to a height of 25 ft.,
seems to have had no side window?,
and to have been lighted only from
above the W. door. Outside its X.
wall is a foundation ranging with the
nave, but prolonged considerably be-
yond it. The walls of the transept
remain about 12 ft high, and the
eastern chapels are worai attention.
In the southernmost is a lai^e tomb-
slab, sculptured with 2 foliated crosses,
and 2 skeletODS were found in the
grave below. S.W. of it, in the bodr
of the transept, is the tomb>s]ab6f
William of Runington, Prior of Saw-
ley, and, in 1872, Chancellor of
Oxford. He was named, no doubt,
from the neighbouring village of
Bimington, and was probably the
« William of Bimington " who wrote
sundry tracts against the Wieklifiltes
remaining in MS. in the Bodleian
Library. The pavements in the
middle chapel of each transept wing
are of the 18th cent., excellent in
design, and closely resembling one
found in 1760 at Meaux Abbey (see
Bte. 7), also Cistercian. In the
northernmost chapel is a slab fnan
which the brass has disappeared, bnt
which covered the remains of "Sir
Bobert de Clyderhow,*' once "Par-
son" of Wigan, in Lancashire. Sir
Bobert was a strong suppotter of
Thomas Earl of Lancaster, m his con-
tention with Edw. n. in 1821. Out-
side this chanel, but in a sunk area of
the transept floor, is a slab of the 14th
cent, with cross and sword, and what
seems to be a sling for casting stones.
A slab forming a step of the doorwir
in the S. waH of tne transept also
BaiUe 8S.—8awley—Whattey Alhey—BoUand. 423
dcsenres attentioii; it bean ft cross,
the bar and stem of which are fonned
by an enormoiis sword. The choir
seems to have been rebuilt in the
Perp. period : althooffh the walls of
the oneinal Norm, choir, abont 9 ft.
hieh, still remain, and were probably
len until a central tower could w
erected. The Peip. choir was much
lon^, and had aisles. That this
choir was completed is to be inferred
from the existence of part of the
floor of the high altar, and from the
discovery of much Perp. glass upon
and around it.
At the S. end of the transept are
the foundations of the chapter-house,
and of 2 adjoining apartments not
easily appropriated. The unusual
shartness of tne Norm, nave interfered
altogether with the usual arrange-
ment of the cloister court; and ac-
cordingly buildings were continued
beyond it, in a Ime with its eastern
side. These were probably the Frater-
boose (or common refectory), with
battery and other offices attached.
The S. side of the cloister court has
been demolished nearly to the fonn-
dfttion. Here, however, were the
flrreat refectory (102 ft. by 28) and
kitchen. On the W. side seems to
have been the Abbot's house, enlarged
apparently in the Perp. period. At
ihe southern angle is a cottage (of
Tudor works), which has been in-
habited since the Dissolution, and was
probably part of this house.
Of the farm-buildings of the abbey,
a granary and corn-mill alone re-
mam, at a short distance W. The
northem ffate-honse — in which the
Tudor arch of the outer and inner
walls is alone ancient — stands about
270 ft. from the ruins. Much stained
fflass, many encaustic tiles, and other
mgments, were found during the
excavations, and carefully preserved.
(Mr. J. R. Walbran's paper on the
excavations here will be found in the
Beport of the United Archit. Soc. for
1852.)
About 1 m. beyond Sawley the
boundary of Yorkshire is crossed,
and we reach the rly. stat at Chat-
hum, (See Handiiak for Lanoa-
shire.)
From Ghatbum, PmdU HUl may
be ascended; and Cliiheroe CasiU
and Whattey Ahbey^ both very inte-
resting, may be reached in a few
minutes. At both places there are
stoitons. Qttheroe was a castle of
the Lacys. Whalley (on the Calder)
was Cistercian, and there are many
remains, including one of the finest
monastic gatehouses in England.
The comer of Yorkshire of which
the Bibble forms the boundary is
interesting from the ereat mass of
Pendle HHI (across the Dorder), which
so often forms the background of
picturesque views. The old forest
of BcUand or Souiland, which lifts
its limestone summits toward the
N.W., is a district which will hardly
reward the patience of the explorer.
It is the watershed of streams which
run into the Lune on one side, and
into the RibUe on the other ; and the
Yorkshire boundary passes along the
crests of its highest ridses — Wolf
Orag, Cro9$ of Greet, Bcmnd KfwU,
and Bummoor — names which are
more picturesque than the country in
which they are found. "On the north-
ward slope of Bolland Knots, looking
toward Ingleborongh, many frag-
ments of trees appear, rooted below
or Iving prostrate in the peat, espe-
cially in situations where water
might staniate, at elevations and in
aspects where now the utmost art
and care fail to raise oaks or pines,
or indeed any tall trees. This is one
of many examples spread over the
British Isles and Northem Europe,
for which no satisfactory explanation
can be given by dimatal variation
of merely local character. Similar
T^enomena have been noticed <m. the
£. side of Ingleborongh at more
than 1300 ft above the sea."—
PhiUipt,
A Boman road ran through this
par^of Craven from Bibchester (Coc-
4124
SotUe 34L.^Leed8 to Skifion*
ceimn ?) in Lancashire to Oyer-
boroagh (BremetonacaB ?) in West-
morelAnd. Great {lart of this road,
which crossed the Hodder W. of
BrowihoAme, has been traced. The
Hodder, a pictnresqne tributajgr of
the Ribble, descends from Longndge,
a conspicnons fell W., and fonns the
boonduy between Yorkshire and
Lancashire from its jonction with the
Ribble as far as WhiteweU. A litUe
above the Jmiction, on the rt. bank
of the Hodder, is Stoneyhunt CoHeae
{Handbh. for Lanoau^ire.) Bcuhcul,
an ancient house of the Talbots, and
Broukhtjlme (Thomas Gk>ulbonm Par-
ker, £^')* a house dating from the
reign of Hen. VIL, are in the valley
of the Hodder, and maj easily lie
visited from Clitheroe.
ROUTE 34.
LEEDS TO SKIPTON, BT BINGLEY AMD
KEIGHLEY (8ALTAIRE; HAWORTH).
(Jiiidtand lUUlway. 26} m. To
Skipton, 11 trains daily; to Brad-
ford, 21.)
Leaving Leeds from Central?, the
Wellington or the Holbeck Stat, the
rly. thronghont its course to Skipton
runs through the valley of the Aire.
The river is accompanied by the
Leeds and Liverpool Canal; at first
on its 8. side, arterwards on the N.
River and canal are alike black with
streams that run into them from the
many dyeworks and factories of all
kinds that rise along the valley : stil
pretty and wooded, in spite of the
change which has filled it ^'^^ntk
mills and looms, water-wheels sad
engine-chimneys." Airedale and
Calderdale are the two great centre;
of Yorkshire enterprise and manu-
facture.
(The Leeds and Liverpool Canal
was partlv opened in 1774, bat the
works, which were commenoed s;
both ends, proved very difilcnit and
expensive, and the canal was not
finished until 1816. James Brindler^
the famous engineer of the Bridge-
water Canal, surveyed and laid oor
the whole line of this navigatioa, lau
miles in length. The advantages of
the canal are still felt, notwithstand-
ing the railways which have since
been constructed; and the rise of
Leeds, Bradford, and other manufac-
turing towns ot its course has no
doubt been hastened by the faeilitiet
afforded by it It was the fiist
good ** highway ^ for the conveyance
of raw material and maaufactnred
produce along the valley of the Aire
to Liverpool.)
Hardly beyond the smoke and stir
of Leeds is,
1} m. Amdey Stat, a large
village, chiefly inhabited by the
"hands" who work in the neigh-
bouriug factories. On the hill above
is Armey House TJohn Gott, Esq.
— ^it is not generally shown), con-
taining some good pictures, includ-
ing some of we best portraits of
Sir T. Lawrence. The house stands
in a park, the trees in which would
be fine but for the smoke, and com-
mands good views over KirkstalL
In Armley Church, rebuilt 1835, is a
monument, by Joseph Gott of Rome,
for the late Benjamin Gott, the
founder of Armley, and the pro-
prietor of the largest cloth-works in
Leeds. His figure is sculptured re-
clining on a mattress.
Passing SJ m. Kirketall (see Rte.
29) Stat., where the Abbey ruins are
Itoute SA.'^Califefley—ShipleS^Sdliaire.
425
seen rt., and KirlataU Forqe, where
are the hirge ironworks of Messn.
Beecroft, we reach
4} m. NewUiy, where the Airedale
Dye-works send their black streams
to the river ; and
52 m. Calverley Stat. L at some
little distance is seen Cahetiey Church;
rt. is Honforth Old HcUl, now a
farm; but a good example of the
Jas. I. Yorkshire "hall-honse" of a
smaller proprietor. It is the mix-
ture of these old houses, and of other
more ancient remains, snch as British
camps and Boman roads, with the
vast population, the chimneys and
long window-ranges of modem fac-
tories, that gives snch a peculiar
character to much of this district.
In the Tillage of Calverley is Colter'
ley Hall, still nearly the same as when,
in 1605, it was the scene of that suc-
cession of murders which were drama-
tised under the name of the *■ York-
shire Tragedy' — a play which has
been assigned, and with less impro-
bability uan many others, to Sh&k-
speare. A family of the same name
bad been settled at Calverley since
the 12th cent. Their representative,
Walter Calverley, a man of evil life,
•who had dissipated nearly the whole
of his estate, in a fit of jealous frenzy
and remorse killed his two sons and
bis wife (April 28, 1605), and then
attempted to make his own escape.
But his horse fell, and he was taken.
After having been examined by
Sir John Savile of Stowley, he was
conveyed to York Castle. On his
trial he refused to plead, and suffered
accordingly the ** peine forte et dure,**
being pressed to death. By this
means ne preserved the remnant of
his estate to a third son, who was at
nurse when the others were killed,
and so escaped. The room in which
the murders were committed is still
pointed out.
On the brow of the hill, below
Bawdon, near Apperley Bridge, is the
BapitBls* CoUepe^tcfr educating young
men as Baptist ministers. It was!
removed a few years ago from Little
Horton (Bradf oid), where it was esta-
blished in 1805. On the hill above,
Billinge, a gold torque was found
many years ago.
About 1} m. from Apperley Stat,
is Esholt HaU (Col. W. H. Crompton
Stansfield), approached by a fine
avenue of elm-trees. It was built
1707 by Sir Walter Calverley (whose
father, one of Chas. n.*8 knights of
the Boyal Oak, had married the heiress
of Thompson of Esholt), on the site
of a nunnery for 6 Cistercian nuns,
founded by Simon de Warde in the
12th cent. Some remains of the
ancient priory exist in the present
house. (£sholt=ils^-wood. An osier-
bed is here called an '* osier-holt.")
7} m. Aj^perley Bridge Stat;
After crossing successively the river
and the canal, the rly. passes through
a long tunnel in the projecting hul,
which here occupies an angle of the
river. At
11 m. Shipley Jnnct. Stat., a branch
line turns S. up the course of the
Bradford Beck to (13J m. from Leeds)
Bradford. (See Rte. 35.) Here also
is ihejunetion of the Midland system
of rlvs. with a line which, passing
round the hills to Laitter ifyke, on
the Gt Northern Rly., between Leeds
and Bradford (Bte. 35) ; and here a
short line of rly. branches off to
Guiteley, materially shorteninff the
distance between Bradford and Qkley.
(Bte. 80.) Shipley, full of mills and
dye-works (Pop. of parish in 1881,
15,089), has a Perp. ch. of little
interest; but in the parish is what
every visitor to this neighbourhood
who cares for factories and their most
perfect arrangements should endea-
vour to see— 9ie great establishment
of SaUaire.
SaUaire Stat. { m. beyond Shipley.
Most but not all the trains stop here.
The manufactory is not shown with-
out an especifld intioductioa. Its
426
Bouie84..—8aUaire.
exterior, howefver, the chnreh, and the
▼iUage are well worth a risH.
Siataire— maniifactorT, town, and
eh. — ^has arisen entirely from the
energy and reaourcee of the late Sir
Titus Salt. The factory was opened
in 1858, when an entertainment was
nyen in it to more than 4000 persons.
The position of the great factory on
the bank of the rirer is striking. On
the N. side the hank is high and well
wooded ; a dam across the Aire gives
a dash of white foam as a foreeronnd
to the mass of plain bnt good Italian
bnilding, with the ch. opposite the
main entrance. The Byzantine cha-
racter of this ch., which has a gilt
spike upon the cnpola of its tow«r,
assists the "Imperial" impression
produced by the entire settlement.
The whole is, in fact, yeiy Bussian —
the work of one antooratic mind.
This is a worsted factory, Uke most
of those in the neighbourhood of
Bradford ; but its great feature is the
manufacture of alpaca fabrics. The
alpaca (the wool of which had been
spun and woven into stuffs of great
beauty by the ancient Peruvians,
among whom Pizarro, in 1525, found
the animal, called by them << Pacos,''
domesticated) was first brought to
England in 1809. Some attempts,
which proved unsuccessful, were
made to acclimatize it; and some
of the wool, imported from S. Ame-
rica, had been spun and woven in
the neighbourhood of Bradford, with
unsatisfactory result, until Mr. Salt
finally overcame **the difficulties of
preparing and spinning the alpaca-
wool, so as to produce an even and
true thread, and by combining it with
cotton warps, which had then (1886)
been hnpoited into the trade of Brad-
ford, improved the manufacture, so
as to make it one of the staple in-
dustries of the kingdom.''-— (/onujs,
*Hist of Worsted.') An enormous
quantity of alpaca-wool is now an-
nually imported, neariy all of which
is worked up in the Bradford district.
The main articles now manufactured
from alpaca-wool consist of alpaca
lustres (dred) and alpaca mixtures
(undyed), both made of cotton or silk
warp. Great quantities of ** fancy
alpacas ** are also made, vaiying wiih
varying fashions, and distingniaihed
by all sorts of fantastic names. Those
who are fortunate enough to see the
works here will find a stuffed alpaca
and its young one at the aid of
the first ofiice. The animal is about
the size of a full-grown deer, with a
fleece averaging from 5 to 8 in. long.
Passing beyond this office, the whole
process of preparing and spinning the
wool, from its first arrival in great
bales to the finished fabric of varioiis
descriptions, may be seen and won-
dered at
Besides alpaca, Bussian, *< Botany **
wool, mohair (or goat's hidr), and alk
are used here. The *< Botany ** wod
(from Van Diemen's Land) is soha
and finer than any other; alpaca-
wool, in its natural state, is of three
or four colours — grey, brown, and
almost black. In the first rooms goes
on the cleaning, combing, and wash-
ing of the woS, all by machines of
great ingennity and beauty. Then.
ascending by the lift, we pass to the
rooms where the spinning of the wod
is in proeress — the fibre passing
gradually through different machinee
to its last and finest condition. In
other rooms the actual weaving may
be seen, and the fabrication of afanosi
every kind of material for which the
various wools (sometimes mixed with
silk) are used. The vast length d
the rooms, where the eye loses Hself
in the perspective of machinery, and
the ear is half deafened by its dang :
the perfect order and cleanliness, and
the multitude of weU-dressed, healthy-
looking " hands," although they m
characteristics of many a great "fork-
shire factory, are especiafiy striking
here. The main shatting, moving the
machinery, is placed under the floor
of the weaving-room, which is thib
entirely without the giddy whiri (d
the gearing, and is comparativdy frt«
Sauie Si.—8akaire—Btngley.
427
from dost (/omes),* History of Wor-
sted Manuf.') The warehouses, the
rooms for mending the machinery,
and the engine-rooms are not less
interesting.
The fatSory (which covers 12 acres,
is 6 stories high, 550 ft. lone, 50
wide, and 72 hieh) stands on the S.
bank of the Leeds and Liveipool
Canal, between that and the riyer,
from which the water for the works is
supplied. Its architects were Messrs.
Lockwood and Mawson of Bradford.
The walls, enormously thick, are sup-
ported by arches on iron pillars.
The roof also is of cast iron, and the
whole building is fire-proof. The
^* Congregatiomd ^ Church opposite
(it cost 11,0002.) is fine. Close to the
stat. are schools for the express use of
the workmen's children. In the town,
which is built entirely of stone,
streets of houses are arranged for
the workmen, who pay a very mode-
rate rent There is a working men*s
club and Institute, which cost, it is
siud, 30,0002. ; a dining-hall ; baths
and washhouses; a square of ahns-
faonses ; and a dispensair ; the whole
built at the cost ot the late Sir Titus
Salt, Bart ; and finally a Park of 14
acres, laid out in an ornamental
manner, also given by him, was
opened in July 1B71, when he stated
tnat Saltaire was at last completed.
This park includes a cricket-ground
of 5 acres, a bowling-green, and
croqnet-ground ; and a noble terrace,
reaching the full length of the park,
is a striking feature.
Yon may walk from Saltaire, across
Bnmbald's Moor, to llkley, 7 m.
(Rte. 30.)
Leaving Saltaire, the hills become
steeper and more picturesque on the
N. side of the valley; the "Loadpit
Beck** descends through a wooded
glen to join the Aire on the W.
side of Baildon Common (927 ft), a
high ground marked by some cahns
and barrows; and (entering the dis-
trict of Craven a little before) we
reach
14} m. BinqUv Stat, dose to a
series of canal locks. An arched
tunnel of masonry, 150 yds. long,
conveys the rly. under part of the
town. Bingley (Pop. in 1881, 9465 ;
Imp. district 8072) is, like all these
towns, busily engaged in the woollen
trade. The fint worsted factory
vras bnilt here abont 1806 (shalloons
and calimancoes had been made here
long before), and there are now more
than 20 large worsted factories in
the parish. The town consists for
the most part of <me lone street,
and is very picturesquely placed on
high ground between the river and
the ccmaL The Church is Perp., but
has been modernised. A castle (it
is said) once existed here, of which
there are no traces ; and there is
now nothing to delay the tourist
in Bingley. (The churchwardens'
books contain some remarkable entries
relating to the purchase of wine for
the Communion in 1651 : ** 20 quarts
of wine fdr the Christmas Communion,
IZt'.; bread. Is. 2d, 20 gallons of
wine for lister Comm., 4?t.; bread,
3s. Id." This extraordinary dispro-
portion was perhap^ a Puritan pecu-
liarity )
Beyond Bingley the sides of Aire-
dale are dovered with fine natural
wood; and although worsted and
cotton mills are everywhere present,
the valley is very bcntttiful. A fine
view of it is obtained from the
" Druid's Altar," a projecting rock on
the side of Harden Moor. (Harden
Grange^ on the S.E. side of the moor,
is the residence of W. Feirand, Bsq.)
The rock which forms the high
ground on each side of the valley
is millstone-grit, which has been
quarried laredy for building pur-
poses through Airedale. At Mor-
ton, on the hillside, rt, a great
quantity of Boman coins (no Boman
road lias been traced through the
valley) were found toward the end
of laist cent They were denarii of
I Sept. Severus, Caraealla, and Oeta,
I and had been contained in a brass
428
Boute 84. — KeigUey^ — Kaworih.
chest, perhaps the militaiy chest of a
Legion.
A little before reachii^ Keighlej,
rt., is seen BiddicBden HaU, an ex-
cellent specimen of a good Yorkshire
house of the 16th and 17th cents.
It stands on a knoll oyerhanginff the
river, and belonged to the raslews.
The house has now fallen from its high
estate, and is divided into tenements.
17| m. KeighUy Stat. (pron.
Keatlej or Keathlej), from which
Raworih may be visited. The stat
is ^ m. from the town (InUy Devon-
shire Arms). Keighley has been
transformed from a populous old-
fashioned village into a still more
populous town. (Pop. in 1881,
25,245.) It stands very pleasantly at
the entrance of a lateral valley, down
which the small river Worth hastens to
join the Aire. Woollen and worsted
manufacture was early introduced
here, the weaving of stuffs gradually
absorbing the more ancient manufac-
ture of woollen cloth. The first cotton-
mill was erected in 1780. The business
of the place has largely increased
since 1840 ; it is still rapidly extend-
ing. The largest mill is that of
Messrs. Craven. Keighley is the
last manufacturing town of import-
ance on this side of Yorkshire. The
Churchy once E.E., was '* modernised "
in 1710, and almost rebuilt in 1847
and 1878. It contains nothing of
interest, except two sUbs with crosses
and inscriptions for the "Kyghlay,''
or Eeighley family, whose heiress
transferred the manor and estate to
the Cavendishes.
A very pleasant walk of between
7 and 8 miles, over Rumbald's Moor,
willbringthetouri8ttoIUdey(Bte. 80.)
Bail to Halifax, Great Northern.
The Branch rly. from KeiaJdey to
Haworth and Oxenhope, at the head
of the Worth valley, has a station at
Haworth. The distance is 4 m., but,
as there are stoppages at four other
stations, the time occupied is 15 m.
The stream of the Worth has
been utilized for many mills through-
out the valley, which is marked
by factories and rows of workmen's
houses, and "can hardly be called
country any part of the way." There
are stations at Ingrow, at Vameius^
and at Oakworth; and the train then
reaches
Haworth Stat The village (Inn :
Black Bull^ lies J m. rt of the stat,
and **is situated on the side of a
pretty steep hill, with a background
of dun and purple moors, rising and
sweeping away yet higher than the
ch., whidi is built at the very summit
of the long, narrow street All roond
the horizon there is this same line of
sinuous, wave-like hills, the scoops
into which they fall only revealing
other hills beyond of similar colour
and shape, crowned with wild, bleak
moors." — Life of C BronO, In the
grey village itself, the places ol pil-
grimage are the parsonage-house and
the ch. The former, which is the
highest house in the place, overlooks
the churchyard, and it was to it that
Mr. Bronte brought his wife and
children in Feb. 1820. Charlotte, the
eldest, was bom in 1816, at Thmnton,
about 4 m. W. of Bradford (see Bte.
35): she died May 31, 1855, in the
parsonage of Haworth, having been
married to the Bev. A. B. NichoUs on
the 29th of June in the previous year.
With the exception of a short resi-
dence in Brussels, her life was spent
almost entirely at Haworth. Her
novels were written here ; and the
wild, grim features of the surrounding
moors, together with the scarcely less
grim character of the population that
nestles under and among them, are
faithfully reflected in her writings.
The tourist will hardl v visit Haworth
without Mrs. Ghiskell s * Life * in his
hands or in his memoiT ; and he must
be referred to it for full particulais of
the strange and solitary existence led
here for so many veare by the Brontes.
Mr. Bronte, the father, died, aged 85,
Boute 34. — Hatdorth — Kildtnck,
429
in 1861, having snniTed all his chil-
dren, and having been incumbent of
Haworth for more than 41 years.
The vicarage and its garden re-
main as in the time of the Brontes,
except that the windows of the old
house have been fiUed with large
glass panes, and that a new wing has
been added (1871) on the N. side.
The Chunhf Pe^., was pulled down,
except the tower, m 1879, and a neat
Gkithic Ckureh, hj Healy of Bradford,
supplies its place. A tablet on the
chancel wall records the deaths and
ages of the Bronte family, all of
whom are buried here, except Anne
(authoress of * Agnes Grey,' and the
' Tenant of Wildf eU Hall ')> who died
and was buried at Soarborough.
Emily, the authoress of * Wuthering
Heights,' — a story in which the
gloomy, half-mysterious influence of
this lonely country is strongly felt —
died in 1848 ; and Charlotte BrmU
(Currer Bell) died 1855. The regis-
ter, with C. Bronte's autograph, is
shown. The visitor will do well to
climb the moors at the back of the
parsonage, if he desires to make him-
self acquainted with scenery that had
its full share in nurturmg the genius
of CharloUe BrontU.
A path by the side of the vicarage
will lead stndght to the moors, which
are hardly picturesque— rather high,
nndulating ground, thinly covered
with heather and bilberries. About
2 m. from the vicarage is a waterfall,
often visited by C. Bronte.
Mrs. Gaskell has given some
curious anecdotes illustrating the
character of the people of this neigh-
bourhood— ** self-sufficient " in the
widest sense, relying on their own
energy and power, "sleuth-hounds
in pursuit of money,** and as strong
haters as lovers. ** There is little
display of an^ of the amenities of
life among this wild, rough popula-
lation. Their accost is curt, their
accent and tone of speech blunt
and harsh. Something of this may
probably be attributed to the freedom
of mountain air, and of isolated
hill-side life ; something be derived
from their rough Norse ancestry.
They have a quick perception of
character, and a keen sense of
humour; the dwellers among them
must be prepared for certain uncom-
plimentary, though most likely true,
observations, pithily expressed.** —
Life of C. Bronii, Many of their
wilder customs, such as the ^ Arvills/*
or funeral feasts, generally succeeded
by ferocious fighting — ^just as in Ice-
land in the days of the Nials and the
Ketels— or the mairiage "ridings**
from Haworth to Bradford, have
either disappeared altogether or have
become grcuttly modified since the
early part of the cent. The change
in this district since the railways
have penetrated it is necessarily enor-
mous; and even the '* loneliness of
the grey ancestral houses to be seen
here and there in the dense hollows
of the moors '* has not preserved them
from its influence.
The railway from Eeighley has,
of course, much changed the 'valley
of the Worth. MiUs— cotton, or
cotton and worsted mixed — have in-
creased in numbers and in hands;
and Haworth itself is a more bustling
phice (Pop. in 1871, 5966) than in
the days of the Brontes.
The rly. is continued to Oxen-
hope, at the extremity of Haworth
parish.
Betuming to Keighley, the next
stat toward Skipton is
20^ m. SieeUm. The village lies
under the high around 1.; rt. the
valley opens up broadly to Silsden.
The Leeds and Liverpool Canal
passes through the village of Silsden,
which lies in a hollow of Rumbald*s
Moor, up which the road climbs
twards Addingham.
The scenery increases in beauty as
we approach.
211 m. KOdftieh Btat, 1. is the
village of Crossbills ; rt. the Aire is
430
BaiUe 85.—LMde to Bradford.
crossed by a handsome stone bridge
(built temp. Edw. 11. bj the Canons
of Bolton} at the entrance of Kild-
wick, llie Churek, called fnnn its
unusual length the '* Long Church of
Oraven,*' is good Perp. and contains
a rood-screen and carred wood-work
worth notice. There are some frag-
ments of stained glass ; and in the
nave the effigj of Sir Robert de
Stiverton or Steeton, died 1307.
Until the Dissolution, Kildwick Ch.
and manor belonged to the Canons
of Bolton. KUdufiek OranoB was a
residence of the Prior (the Duilding
now dates from the 17th cent., and
is remarkable for a balconied portal).
Ktldurick BdU, on high ground above
the ch., is also of the 17th cent,
and a veir good example of a Craven
" hall'' of tibat date. From the ter-
race there is a fine view over the
valley.
In this district the hills are often
dressed with lime to the summit,
giving them the appearance of being
white with snow. The limestone
ridges above Skipton rises rt. as we
approach
28) m. CononUy Stat, from which
the rly. soon sweeps up the valley to
26} m. iS^tptofi (see Rte. 30).
ROUTE 86.
LEEDS TO BRADFORD.
(Qnat NoHk^m J»y^ Leeds, Brad-
foid, and Halifax Junction* 15 trains
daily, some of which are in connec-
tion with trains fram Knottingley
Junction by Wakefield to Leeds.
Time ol transit, 30 min. All tiaiaii
leave Leeds from the Central Stat,
and stop at Holbeck.)
^or the Midland Rly. from Leeds
to Bradford see Rte. 84.)
The Oreat Northern Rly. pasM
through an industrial district, ^icklv
packed with wooQen faetories, tall
chimneys, and qnairies ftoai which
the miUstone is excavated for boild-
ing. There is little to attract the
tourist, or which calk for spedal
notice.
Bramfsy Stat, SkmningU^ Stat
Ptuicey, a village passed L, gaT«
name to the knighuy family which es-
tablished itself at Bolton by BoUand.
and there sheltered Heniy VL (see
Rte. 83). At FulmBek, in this town-
ship, is a Moravian settlement, estab.
1748. The chief buildings (hall,
ch^el, schools, and houses for single
men, single women, and widows)
stand on a tenace, from which there
is a wide view. James Montgomerr
the poet, whose father was a Montviaa
minister, was educated here.
At Lauitar Dyke Junct. SUt, i
branch direct to Bradford tmis rt
out of that to Low Moor and Halifax.
Hero it a small Chnroh, completed in
1861 ; adj(»ning, the Bowling Iron-
works (see jpost)
8t Ihmian*$ Stat
Bradford Junct. Stat. Itmt:
Victoria, close to the Qreat Kortheni
Rly. Station, at which the traveller
by this route will arrive. Talbot, in
Airkgate, rebuilt ; good and reaaoD-
able: the Alexandra, Great Hoiton
Road, nearly midway between the
two stations.
The Midland Stat (Rte. 84) is st
the bottom of Kirksate.
The Exchange Stat (Lancashin
and Yorkshire; Great Northen,
Halifax, Hnddeisftekl, Ac) is neu
St Geom's HaU.
Fop. ofborough in 1881, 180,459; ii
1861, 1064UL8 ; in 1801, 13,S64. Tht
population of no town in XoKfcshiie
Bouie S5.—Bfadfcrd.
431
CMiddlesbnm^, Bte. 17, has risen
more soddeiuj) has increased more
rapidly since the beginning of the
cent. There were ^7 8 factories
here in 1800, there are between 160
and 170 at present The rapid in-
crease of wealth in Bradford is indi-
cated by the fine buildings which are
rising on idl sides, as well as by its
new streets and roads. Bradford
stands at the head of a wide valley,
down which the Bradford Beck fknrs
to meet the Aire at Shipley. The
older part of the town lies completely
in the valley; and the *< Beck ** and
its tributaries used to stagnate in a
broad, open space bek>w, until the
making of the Bradford Canal (com-
pleted before 1796, 4 m. long, with
12 locks, and a fall of 87 ft), which
joins the Leeds and Liyorpool Canal
near Shipley. From this maish,
which had to be forded, the town was
named — ^Brad (broad) ford.
It has little ancient history. In
the civil wars it was Parliamentarian,
and, alter twice repulsing troops sent
from the Leeds garrison, was taken
by the Earl of Newcastle. Lord
FaixfaXf who had attempted to defend
the place, finding it hopeless, made a
bold saUy and cut his way through to
liseds; but his lady, who had ac-
companied him on honeback oa this
and his other canqudgns, was made
prisoner before she could reach the
DTOW of the hiUs. Newcastle, how-
ever, eonrteoosly sent her to her
husband in his own carriage under an
escort
Bradford is now the great centre of
the toanisd trade (as Leeds is the
chief mart for brosddoth); and the
'^ raw material " is purchased here by
manufacturers from the wholedothing
district Indeed, though foreign na-
tions may rival us in weaving cloth,
the giufk (f Gtmed of long-sti4>led wool,
in distmction to the short-stapled, of
which cloth is made), for whien Brad-
ford is famous* maintain their supe-
riority! snd the spinning of isor^ed
yam, which is steadily increasing here
and throughout tiie distriet, has be-
come of great importance. Norwich,
the cradle of the worsted trade, is now
supplied from hence with finer yam
than she can herself make, and at a
far lower price. Besides yam, the
mills of Bradford produce every kind
of fabric, wrought from wool, worsted
mohair, alpaca, or China grass. These
are stored in the great warehouses
which line the streets, towering stoiy
above story; and eventually find
their wayto almost every part of the
world. The spinning of worsted yam
by machinery was first introduced
here toward the end of the last cent,
and the first steam-engine was erected
in 1800 ; but the prosperity and the
increase of Bradfoid have been most
noticeable since 1880, and it is only
of comparatively late years that the
town and its neighbourhood have
been overhung by the canopy of
smoke which is now rarely lifted
except on Sundays and Whitsuntide.
The earliest manufacture of Brad-
ford, as of all this part (rf Torkshire,
was that of woollen cloths. Barly in
the last century the making of wonted
stuffs encroached much on this ; and
at last grew to so great importance,
that in 1773 the "Piece Hall " was
built At this time nearly all the
population of Bradford was engaged
m spinning and weaving stuffs fabri-
cated altogether from wool; and
much of the yam used by them was
spun in Craven and the northern
dales of Yorkshire with the domestic
spinning-wheeL The manufacturer
had hin^U to set out from Bradford
with work for the spinners, and to
bring back yam (havmg first, in the
same way, brought home " long wool "
from Lmcdnshire) ; and many of
them carried their sioils, with droves
of pack-horses, to fairs and market-
towns all over the kingdom. About
the year 1794, spinning-machines-
were first set up here ; and in 1800,
the first factory, with a steam-engine
of IS-horse power, was erected.
Others soon followed, not without
432
Boutedb.— Bradford: Town HaU.
much opposition from the inhabit-
ants; but from this time the pro-
sperity of the pkce increased rapidly ;
and it is owing to the backwardness
of Halifax and other towns to adopt
the factory system and the use of
machinery that Bradford has so far
outstripped them, and has become
the capital of the ** worsted '' trade.
Bittdford had little to do with the
"Lnddite*' disturbances of 1812;
but in 1826 a determined opposition
tose against the weaving of stufb by
power-looms. Some muls were then
attacked and damaged, without of
course interfering with the advance
of machinery. Few pieces are now
woven by hand in the parish ; and
hand-combing, which used to be one
of the great occupations here, has
been almost enturely superseded by
Lister's machine.
The old town of Bradford ccmtained
little that was characteristic. The
Church (ded. to St. Peter), on the
hill -side, is Perp., and has been re-
stored ; but is of no great interest
The corbel table under the roof is
unusual and very ugly. Within, the
oaken roof is ancient. There is a
good (late Perp.^ canopy of taber-
nacle-work for tne font, resembling
that in the parish ch. of Halifax
(Hie, 86) ; a monument, by JFTaastmm,
for Abraham Balme, worth notice (it
is a fine personification of old age —
an old man between his son and
daughter); and one for Abraham
Sharp, the mathematician (died 1742 :
see poeiy Horton Hall). Wool-packs
were hung round the tower, during
the attack on the town by the Eari
of Newcastle, in order to protect it ;
in spite of which it was much shaken
by the shot of the Royalist artillery,
llie Manor Court-^unue, a building
of the 17th cent., remains in West-
gate. John Sharpe, Abp. of York
(1691-1714), was bom at Bradfonl
Modem Bradford has extended
itself up the hills on either side of
the old town, and farther down the
valley. The town has many fine
buildings, and almost every year ad.i<
to their number. The lony tower t*i
the Toum HaU groups well, from
most points of view, with the sur-
rounding buildings, and the musical
carillon which sounds from it is
pleasant and enlivening. The view
from Peel Place, where stands the
smoke-stained statue of Sir Bobert
Peel, by Behnes, is fine. Gkeat war&-
houses stretch away on each side,
many with food architectnral eleva-
tions, yery lofty, and giving an im-
posing idea of the wealth stored
within. Neither the warehouses nor
the factcnies are shown without a
special introduction. Of the latt^,
by far the best example in the dis-
trict is HaUaire (see Kte. 34), easily
accessible from Bradford by rly. The
scene in the streets of Bradford, when
the ^* hands " turn out at mid-day for
dinner, is remarkable, although Ihe
bonnet has now almost entirely re-
placed the coloured shawl, once worn
over the head with a far more pictu-
resque effect. C2ogs are still generally
worn, as the clatter along the V^re-
ment makes sufficiently evident. They
are made (in all the towns) from
alder-wood, cut down and piled for
some time in conical heaps. It is then
easily hoUowed.
Of the pubUe lmildtng$ in Brad-
ford, the Town HaUy in New Market
Street, is by far the most important
It was completed, in 1878, from the
designs of Messrs. Lockwood and
Mawson, at a cost of more than
100,000Z., and is of so-called "me-
dieval '* character, nther Italian than
Flemish. The exterior niches eon-
tain statues of the kings and (reign-
ing) queens of EngUmd, from the
Conqueror to Queen Victoria-Oliver
Cromwell appearing among them.
From the centre rises a lofty cam-
panile. The building, besides offices
for the various members of the Cor-
poration, c(mtains a suite of jmit-
ments for the Mayor, Council Obam-
ber, Borough Court, ^ Noneoftlie
B(mte 36.-^Brad/ard: BmUings, Parki^
488
rooms aie TeiT laive. Themteriorof
the Town HaU, al&ongh not officiftlly
shown, can generally be seen hj
application to the Hall-keeper. The
interior if better than the exterior.
The staircase and passages, like
cloisters with stained-glass windows
and fine stained-glass skylight, should
be seen especially from upper landing.
This part stands open during the day ;
the wood-carving in the council-
chamber very good. The stone used
throu|;hout is from Cliffe Wood
Quames, near the town. A memorial
to Sir Titos Salt, Bart., has been
erected in front of the building.
The Town Hall is, as it should be,
by far the most conspicuous build-
ing in Rradford. Opposite is the
Mechanietf InUUtUe (opened 1870),
Italian in character, with lecture-
looms and a libnuj (cost 36,0002.).
St Owro0'$ HaU, on the other
side of the Town Hall, was completed
in 1858, and cost 18,0002. The style
is classical ; but the exterior is almost
beaten by the range of warehouses
which adjoins it Within, the great
hall— 152 ft. by 76, 54 ft high— is
fine, and the effect is especially good
at night, when it is lighted by a
continuous row of gas-jets above the
cornice.
The foundation stone of the new
Exohanae (liCarket Street) was laid
by Lord Pahnerston in August 1864.
'the building itself (Lockwood and
MawBon, archits.) is Venetian Gothic
in character.
On the hill-top, N. of the town, is
the Cemetery t which should be visited
for the sake of the view to be ob-
tained from it — fine in itself, and
giving an excellent notion of the
position of BradfcntL (The hill-sides
round the town, and indeed through-
out this part of Yorkshire, are covered
with muls, and with cottages built
for the worimien ; and it should be
said that this view is only to be well
seen on Sundays, when the tall
chinmejrs cease to pour forth their
dense clouds of smoke.) Below the
lYorkshire,']
cemetery lies the town in its trough-
like vaUey, the mouth of which, at
Shipley, opens to the Aire. The
conntiy must have]!^been 'pleasant,
with some wood in tne hollows and
open downs above, before its conver-
sion into one vast manufactory. The
hills rise to some height above the
town, forminfl^ part of that mass of
reeling, tumbled land that extends
between the Aire and the Galder.
Beyond Shipley is seen the valley
of the Aire, with the heights above
Bingley, and Bumbald s Moor op-
posite.
A short distance below the ceme-
tery is Peel Park, a space of open
ground well laid out, and command-
ing good views. It is open to the
public. Two other parks have been
?nrchased by the Corporation ; LUter
*arhf containing about 53 acres, N. W.
of the town, on high ground, and
commanding wide views ; and HorUm
Parky on the S. side of the town.
The system of waterwerkSf and those
for Bewaae de/KcaUon, have been de-
vised with eaual zeal and forethought.
There are three levels for the water
supply. From Heaton, near Lister
Park, a conduit extends to the stor-
age reservoirs of Chelker and Barden
(see Bte. 80), 20 m. distant These
provide water for the low level. The
medium level is supplied from
springs near Oullingworth, conducted
to reservoira at Chellow Dean and
at Whetley. The high-level is from
Thornton Moor, S. of the town, and
a massive conduit, 4000 ft. in length,
assists m conveying the water. The
expenditure on these waterworks has
been considerably more than one mil-
lion sterling.
A short distance S.W. of Lister
Park, and adjoining Heaton Boad,
are the colossal buildings of Man-
ningftam Mtlh, erected by Messrs.
S. C. Lister and Co. for silk and
velvet. The structure, which cost
about 500.0002., has received a con-
siderable amount of ornamental cha-
racter. Between the mill and the
8r
431 Bovie&5.—HortimSaU^Lo»MMriromBorl$.
I'
waiehouM are a reservoir, the en-
gine-house, and A lofty chimnejr, with
panelled sides. The area covered is
nearly 11 acres. Mill and warehoose
are 6 stories in height, and are fire-
proof.
Horttm Hatty on the hill S. of
Bradford, is, in its niore ancient
portions, an excellent example of the
** hall-house," so many of wnich were
built by the smaller Yorkshire pro-
prietors between 1580 and 1680, all
with a good-siied conunon hall, and
aparlour in the gable-end adjoining.
Horton Hall was rebuilt in 1676, on
the site of the more ancient house, a
portion of which remains, by Thomas
Sharp, rector of Adel, near XiOeds,
who was ejected for nonconformity.
He became a celebrated Presbyte-
rian preacher, and was a friend of
Thoresby, the Leeds antiquary. His
ounger brother, Abrah^, resided
lere till his death. He was a ma-
thematician and astronomer of much
repute, and the friend and corre-
spondent of Flamstead, for whom he
made considerable calculations. A
room, with a long, low, lattieed win-
dow, is pointed out as having been
in all probability licensed as the first
meeting-place for Presbyterians in
Bradford.
Although the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Bradford has little to
attract the tourist, SaUaire and the
Louf Moor Ironworlu will be visited
with great interest by all who care
for ingenious machinery and the pro-
cesses of manufacture. SaUaire (Rte.
34) may be reached by rly. in 10
min. fixiin Bradford. The Low Moor
Stat, also reached in 10 min., is the
2nd Stat from Bradford on the Halifax
Bly. (4 trains stop at it). The works
are freely shown to visitors who bring
' intro4pctions. (In most cases, per-
haps,-the presentation of your card
at the oflSce will be sufficient)
The Low Moor Ironworks were
established in 1796, and present,
therefore, a very different appear-
ance from those at Middleafarough
and elsewhere in the iron district
of Cleveland (see Bte. 17). The
accumulation of cinders and calcined
shale actually overspreads the ooantrr.
and exceeds in cubic bulk the mass of
the Pyramids. In some cases the
hillocks of rubbish have been levelled,
and covered with soil brought from a
distance. Throogh tiiese " outworks *
the Tisitor finds his way to the
factory (about 1 m. distant from the
stat.). Ironstone, it should be said,
is found throughout this district,
and coal (we ^re here near the K.W.
comer of the coal formation) is raised
by the company on their own estate.
Limestone, used in part of the pro-
cess, is brought from anarries above
Skipton. Iron plates, oars, and rail-
way tires, sent to Russia, America.
India, and, in fact, all over the worid.
are the principal manufaetwes hoe ;
but guns are also made, and the pro-
cesses of boring and rifling may be
followed throughout Every runlet
of water for miles round is dammed
up to supply the works, and erery
drop is carefully economised.
These works are justly cdebrated
for the high quality of wrought ur
malleable iron they nrodnce. The
•* Low Moor brand " is known where-
ever iron of ^eat toughness and
tenacity is required. The process of
manufacture is as follows: — The tall
blast-furnaces are charged froan the
top or "throat" witii coal or coke, or
mixture of these, with iron ore, and
with lime, the coal and coke de-
oxidize the ore, the lime combines with
its siliceous impurities, fotmin|^ a fu-
sible glass or "cinder,'* oomnioBlT
miscalled "sUg." This cinder, to-
ffether with the melted iron, aeeimiu>
fates at the bottom of the fmnace.
the iron in the "eniciUe," and the
cinder which is lighter, floating as a
liquid above it. ^ere is a dam, over
which the cinder, which is more
abundant than the iron, flows off
into iron pots mounted on wheels^
When filled, these are carried away,
J3outo S6. — Law Moor Ironwarh.
m
and their contents fonn the heaps
above described. The flow of cinder
is continuous, but not so the iron.
This is allowed to accumulate until
the crucible is filled. Then it is tap-
ped hy the removal of a claj plug
that was driven into a hole commu-
nicating with the bottom of the
crucible.
Before tapping, a large bed of sand
is prepared, with amain channel com-
municating with outlet of the cruci-
ble, and small side channels branch-
ing from it. The moHen iron flows
down the main channel, thence into
its manv smaller side branches. The
main channel is called the **sow,'^
its side branches the ''pigs,** hence
the term "pig-iron," which has the
form of rough bars that have solidi-
fied in these channels.
Pig-iron is very impure and brittle.
To convert it into malleable iron, these
imparities are wrought out, hence
the name ** wrou^ht-iron." To do
this, the pig-iron is melted in a pud-
dling-fumace, consisting of a fire-
place, communicating with a sort of
dish, roofed over with firebrick. The
flanie from the fireplace passes over
"the bridge" to tne dish chamber,
and the heat of this flame is "re-
verberated"* downwards to the dish
or furnace-bed, on which a charge of
4 to 5 cwt. of pigs is laid. These
are soon melted, and then the pud-
dlcr commences the working with his
"rabble," a long iron bar or poker,
with which he stirs the liquid metal,
bringing all its parts successively in
contact with the " fettlixig " or lining
of the furnace-bed. This lining, re-
newed at each "operation," consists
mainly of oxide of iron, which gives
up its oxygen when thus treated,
and this oxygen, aided by the efforts
of the puddler and ihe action of the
fluid cinder separated from the pig,
removes the impurities by combined
chemical and mechanical action. The
chemical action is strikingly displayed
bv the "boiling" of the fluid mass,
that is, the uprising of bubbles and
streams of carbonic oxide gas, which
bum on the surface as jets and spurts
of blue flame.
The mass now begins to granu-
late, and appears like a porridge,
consisting of infusible grains of iron
diffused through liquid cinder. The
puddler now presses these granules
together, to separate them from
the fluid impurities. This is called
"balling-up,'' and thus the true iron
of the " heat " is made up into Wis
— usually three— which are carried
off to the steam-hammers, and there
"shingled," that is, squeezed and
thumped, to press out the still ad-
hering liqulcT impurities from the
spongy mass. (This liquid, thus
thumped out, is properly called
" slag " hy the workmen, from the
old Scandinavian root sonifying a
blow, while that which flows from
the furnace he calls "cinder,** pro-
bably from the old Norsk root, signi-
hring to trickle down. It is a cu-
rious fact, that the rude workmen
have retained the old etymological
distinction, while schc^lars — including
technological writers — have con-
founded the two things under the
one name of " slag.**)
The balls thus squeezed and rudely
shaped by the hammer, are reheated
in the "mill-furnace," and then
passed between rollers that squeeze
out still more of the liquid impurity,
and bring them to the shape of
plates, sheets, bars, rails, &e., as re-
quired.
Formerly there was an interme-
diate process between that of the
blast-furnace and ihe puddling-fur-
nace, viz, the refinery, m a "finery-
furnace," where the pig was melted
alone or with scrap-iron, and sub-
jected to a strong blast This is
now but rarely used. (For steel-
making, see Sheffield, Bte. 44.)
The pumrnd-tifum, with machines
by which iron and brass are cut as
easily as wood, and the fiUing-shop,
with its steel bores and cyfinders,
are fall of interest; and in one of
2 F 2
436
Boute S5.—Cleckheai(m—B%erley Halt.
the offices are specimens of railway
tires, and of iron plates rolled into
balls/ tied in knots, made into tables,
&c.~-4Jl testing the excellence of the
work.
About 4000 men are employed
here ; and chnrches have been built
at Buttershaw and at Wisbey, for
their accommodation, by the pro-
prietors.
[A BaUway (8 m.) connects Low
Moor with &e Mirfield Stat, on
the Lancashire and Yorkshire line.
There are stations at
2 m. Cleokheaion, where machinery
is made for carding and spinning.
There are also some manufactories
of worsted and coarse woollen fabrics.
Roman remains have been found
here ; and in the chapel are interred
many of the Richardsons of Bierley
(see pott) ; amons them Dr. Richard-
son the naturuist, who died in
174L
4 m. Livenedge, The church was
built and endowed in 1816 by the
Rev. Hammond Roberson, a some-
what remarkable character, and the
original of Parson Torhe in Miss
Bronte's ' Shirley.' Adjoining is Mill
Bridge, a large village, which, with
Liversedge and other villages thickly
scattered over this district, is busily
occupied in cloth, carpet, blanket,
and card manufacture ; and at
5 m. Heekmondvrikej a populous
town, and next to Dewsbuiy (Rte.
37), the chief seat of the blanket
and carpet manufacture, for whidi
a market is held eveiy Monday and
Thursday in the ^2an^ jBoU. Here
are also several cloth factories. Hie
ch. was built in 1880.]
The Bowling Inmvxirhij adjoining
Bradford, S.E. (and having a stat. on
a loop of the Bradford and Halifax
Junction Rly.), are of the same cha-
racter as those at Low Moor, but are
not so extensive. Between the worLs
and Bowling Hall is the modern
church of St. John, constructed en-
tirely of uron and stone, at a cost of
4000L
BovDling HaU is an Elizabethan
building flanked by two older towers.
The once stately mansion is now
stripped of its splendour, partly
modernised and subdivided, sur-
rounded by coal-heaps and enveloped
in smoke. It was anciently the seat
of the Boilings and Tempests, bat
now belongs to J. M. Tankard, Esq.
It was the headquarters of the Earl
of Newcastle during the siege of
Bradford, 1642. According to a
popular tale, he was deterred from
sadung the town, which he had
threatened in consequence of the cold-
blooded skughter by the townspeople
of a young cavalier, Sir John Harp,
by the apparition of a female, who
implored him to "pity poor Brad-
ford."
Bwrley EaU (dating from 1676.
but altered), about 1} m. S. of Bow-
ling, was long the residence of the
Richardson family — one of wham
was Dr. Bicharoion, the eminent
botanist and friend of Sir Hans
Sloane, who sent him a slip of the
cedar of Lebanon, then a novelty in
this country. This was planted at
Bierley, and was the first cedar seen
in the north of England. Hie tree,
of moderate size, is still in existence.
Bierley could also boast of the Becond
hothouse built in the N. of England.
The first was constructed for John
Blackburn, Esq., of Orford, near Liver-
pool ; and the workmen having
finished that, proceeded to Bierley
and built the second. "This in my
memory was entire, and was princi-
pally remarkable for being glaxed
like the windows of a cott^^, with
leaded squares.'' — WhilaJcef^t ^Loidif,'
Dr. Richardson's MSS. are preserved
at Eshton Hall, near Gkurerave (Rte.
82), his family having become, by
marriage, representatives of the
Currers of that place.
Near Bierley HaU, remains provinir
that the Romans worked the coal
Boute dQ.-^Leeds to Bradford and Halifax, 437
Queensbury Junct. Stat.
Queejubury is a proeperons manu-
facturing Tillage, with the large milk
of Messrs. J. Foster and Son, for mo-
hair and alpaca. On this high ground,
1000 ft. above the sea, the mill set-
tlement has grown up within the
last generation. Church and schools
have been built (there is a very wide
view from the church tower). The
firm is said to be richest in the
" worsted ** district. There is neither
railway nor canal, and everything
used in the mills has to be carted
and ironstone of the district have at
times been discovered.
At Undercliffe, N.E. of Bradford,
is Airedale CaUege^ a large and hand-
some building belonging to the In-
dependents, containing accommoda-
tion for 20 students. It enjoys a yearly
revenue of more than 800Z., derived
from endowments, bequests, and sub-
scriptions. Bradford, like other great
manufacturing towns, is rich in
chapels and " colleges ** belongingto
the various religious bodies. The
Wesleyans have 5 chapels here, and
a " Seminary " at Woodhouse Grove
(founded 1812), for educating the
sons of ministers. The first Tempe-
rance Society in England was esta-
blished at Bradford, and its members
have built for themselves a Tempe-
rance Hall in Chapel Street.
ROUTE 36.
LEEDS TO BRADFORD AND HAUFAX,
BT LAISTER DYKE, QUEEN8BURY,
THORNTON.
18 Tfalns daUj, | hr. to 1 hr.
Leeds New Stat, in Rte. 29.
IMbeek Siai. BramJey Si&t.
Stanningley Stat.
Laitier Dyke Junct. Stat
Here a line branches to
Bbadfobd Station in Rte. 85.
81. DunstafCs Stat.
Maneheder Boad Stat.
Great HorUm Stat.
Clayton Stat.
up the hill, and the goods despatched
in the same manner.
Here a riy. branches to
Thornton Stat., to be continued to
Keighley.
At Thornton, SJ m. W. of Brad-
ford, Charlotte Bronti was bom,
April 21, 1816. "The neighbour-
hood JB desolate and wild; great
tracts of bleak land, enclosed by stone
dykes, sweeping up Clayton heights.
The ch. itself looks ancient and soU-
taiy, and as if left behind by the
great stone mills of a flourishing In-
dependent firm, and the solid square
chapel, built by the members of that
denomination." — Mrs, ChuheU, In
1820 Mr. Bronte removed to Ha-
worth (see Rte. 84). On the road
to Thornton is Leventhorpe HuXi, A
Leventhorpe of Leventhorpe was one
of the executors of the will of Henry
IV.
Bdrnfield Stat
HaU/ax^K Buildings Stat
Mills,factorie8,and collieries abound.
The country (entirely within the coal
formation until close to Halifax) is
hilly but uninteresting ; and the h'ne
passes through 4 tunnels between
Bradford and TTnlifa-y^ after emerg-
ing from the last of which the tra-
veJler finds himself in a deep valley,
with bare hills of millstone-grit
rising on either side, and (rt.) the
town of Halifax filling the hollow
of the valley, and ext^ding up the
hili-Bide,
488
Bauie d6.~HaUfax.
Bali/ax Janet. Stat, (keat Nor-
thern Ck>inpaii/8 Stat, on North
Bridge. (Jntw: White Swan, best;
Bailway Hotel: Pop. in 1881»
73,638.) Halifu; ranks third in im-
portance among the *^ clothing ** towns
of the West Biding, the two which
take place before it being Leeds and
Bradford. It stands on the Hebble,
a small stream flowing into the
Calder, 2 m. lower down ; in a re-
gion which De Foe (who lived some
time at Halifax and describes it in
his 'Tour') calls « frightful," from
its rough treeless hills, but which,
he ad£, "seems to have been de-
signed by Providence for the veiy
purposes to which it is now allotted,
for carrying on a manufacture which
can nowhere be so easily' supplied
with the conveniences necessary for
it"— coal and water. In the year
1443 there were, it is said, only 30
houses in the town of Halifax ; but
cloth-making, which had probably
been introduced into this district by
Flemish workmen in the rei^n of
Henry VII., extended rapidly m the
next cent. The town increased;
and the ** gibbet law," as Jus Furcss "
(see po9t for a longer notice), which
had always belonged to the Lords
of the Forest of Hardwick (extend-
ing beyond the present parish of
Hdifax), and of tne manor of Hali-
fax, was brought especially to bear
upon such persons as stole the cloth
hung to dry on <* tenters,** and often
left unprotected by night as well as
by day. (The feudal "jus furc«"
implied a right of hanging the
offender on a gallows, but here
criminals seem to have been always
beheaded. This mode of execution
was, however, known elsewhere in
England ; and Whitaker asserts that
he has " traced it, as appurtenant to
the rights of inefangtheof and out-
fangtheof, in the domains of the
Lacies, both in Lancashire and Che-
shire.**) The making of worsted
stuffs was added to the cloth trade
of Halifax in the beginning of the
last cent Towards its end, the tnde
of the place in both cloth and wcf ■
steds had so far extended that m
1779 its large Piece Hall (see pod)
was erected. After the rise of the
factory system, however, and the
introduction of machineiy, Bradfari
which adopted both freolv (whilst
Halifax was indifferent to tLem), be-
gan to rise rapidly, and soon ex-
ceeded in importance Halifax, which
untU then had stood at the head of
the worsted manufacturing seats in
the North of England. The tovn
thus lost its vantage ground; bat
since 1820 it has rapidly risen, mainir
through the efforts and influence uf
two or three great manufacturing
firms. It is now, as a place of oer-
sted manufacture, second only to Brad-
ford. Many new articles have been
produced here, and the eld greatlj
improved. Factories and tall chim-
neys rise in and about it in all di-
rections; and the railways, which
now connect Halifax with all parts
of the kingdom, would not a little
astonish the much-enduring De Foe.
who journeyed hither with pain and
danger, over the " frightful wilds " of
BladEstone Edge. Besides worsted
and woollen factories there are also
some cotton-mills, and many fac-
tories in which machines are made.
In addition to those in the town,
large worsted and cotttm-mills are
scattered throughout the parish,
which is one of the largest in Eng-
land, begining at Brighoose, and ex-
tending all the way to Todmorden,
nearly 20 m. Its average breadth in
12 m.
The name of ffaUfax has bero
variously explained. Camden gives
us the local legend— that a certain
evil clerk, having cut off the head of
a saintly maiden, hung it on a yew-
tree ; where it was found and gnatly
reverenced by the people. The fibres
beneath the bark of the tree wen
held to be the long hair of the mai-
den. Pilgrims in numbers visited
the ulace, which from the xehcs of
\
Bouie 36.—RaUfax: Pariah Chnreh.
489
the yew-tree was called Halifax =
holy hair. A relic called the *^ face ^
of St. John is said bj others to have
given name to the place. Other an-
tiqnariea explain it as '* holy ways "
(as Carfax in Oxford is qnartre voies **),
from the meeting of many roads at
a spot where a hermit had bnilt a
cell and a chapel to which pilgrims
resorted. None of these etymologies
seem entirely satisfactory. Ijieteimi-
nation is apparently fomidelsewliere in
Yorkshire, as at Kippax, near Leeds.
Hie chief points of interest in
Halifax are the Parish Gh. of St.
John Baptist, the Town Hall, the
Church of All Souls, and the works
of the great mantifactairing firms
(CroBsleys and Akroyds are the two
most important). In entering the
town from the rly. stat, the stran-
ger's attention will at once be
caught by the tall spire (285 ft. high)
of an Independent Chapel, complied
in 1857 at a cost of 15,0002. (archit.
J. James). The pr(^rtion and de-
tails of liie tower and spire are very
^ood. It is locally named ^* Square
Chapel^ probably from the old chapel,
which it replaced, a square red-brick
building stdl standing near to it.
The old quadrangular market-place is
near to
The existing Poiieh Churehy-w^
restored 1878, which is for the most
part Perp., circ 1447 ; but it retains
portions of two earlier churches, one
which has been claimed as Saxon
(Halifax is however unmentioned in
Domesday), and a second of the 18th
cent, (circ 1260), built in all proba-
bility by the Earl of Warrene and
Surrey, the then lord of the manor.
The ch. is divided by a central arch,
which has 5 bays on either side of it.
(Similar central anshes* exist* at El-
land and at Henstonstall, both of the
15th cent.) The existing tower is
western and Perp. rbegun, according
to an entry in the ch. books, in 1450,
and 20 years in boildingl The piers
of the nave, and two m those £. of
the central arch, have their alternate
faces fluted. The chancel is raised
on a kind of crypt (also Perp.)? which
serves as vestry and library. (Among
the books is a fine copy of de Lyra.)
The original door into the rood-loft,
of riven oak, with the chisel-marks
on it, remains S. of the chancel screen.
The fiat wooden ceiling of the di.
was entirely renewed, no doubt after
an older desif^, in 1605. In the
panels are pamted the arms <A the
vicars of Halifax from the year 1274,
those of some ancient families con-
nected with the town, and the em-
blems of the 12 tribes.
The organ is by Schnitiler, and
Dr. HertMl was once organist here.
Within the organ-screen the db. is
seated regularly with black oak, dating
from 1(121, as does the gallery above.
The chiucel screen reSuns part of
its Perp. carving ; and in the chimcel
itself tne Perp. miserere seats remain.
The pulpit, according tO' the ch.
books, was made in 15^. Alto-
gether, owing mainly to the great
auantity of black oalc, the effect of
be ch. is grave and solemn. There
are some modem stained-^ass win-
dows by Clafton aitid Bell, and Hard-
man, On either side of the chancel
are Perp. chantry chapels, that S.
having been founded circ 1554 by
one of the Houldsworth family, vicar
here in the reign d Mary; that N.
by Bokeby, Archbp. of Imblin, who
died in 1521. The Font (Perp.)
has a fine lofty cover of carved
wood.
In the S. aisle is a mont for Robert
Ferrar,Bp. of St David's (1548-1555),
burned for his religion in the reign of
Q. Mary at Caemuuthen, a native of
Halifax ; and the register records the
baptism here (Oct. 6, 1680) of John
Tilloteonj the future. Abp. of Canter-
bury. ' ' IHUotson was bom at Haugh-
end^ near Sowerby Bridge, in the
parish of Halifax. Here also are
monts. to the Bokebys, Satilles, and
WatetfaoDises. In the ch.-yard is the
tomb of John Logan, died, 1686, aged
105.
440
Boute Se.— Halifax: AU SotiW Church.
In the lower part of the town is
the OoUi or Piece Hall, built in
1780, a proof of the high prosperity
of the cloth and worsted manu*
factures here at that time. It is
a simple stone buildine, but imposing
from its great size. Within, a quad-
rangle encloses a court of greensward
lined by handsome colonnades, form-
ing 2 tiers; and on one side are 8
tiers of stone gallwies, divided into
315 shops for clothiers and merchants,
who formerly met here every Satur-
day to dispose of their goods. A few
*< piece-makers *' may still be seen
here on Saturdays ; but nearly all the
Halifax manufacturers now carry their
goods to the great mart of the dis-
triclr-Bradford.
The Town-haU, which may be
visited in passing through the town
toward All Souls Ch., was completed
in 1862, from the designs of Sir Chas.
Barns^ and his son F, M, Barry. It
is a building of Falladian architec-
ture, with pagoda-like tower; is pic-
turesque, striking from the use of
gilt and burnished metal on its ex-
terior, and deserving a better situation
than that in which it is placed,
hemmed in by tall buildings. It cost
about 25,0002., and contains rooms
for all municipal purposes.
The aiureifi of AU SouTs, Haley
HiUy one of the best and most ela-
borate of the churches of which Sir
G, G, ScoU is the architect, the
munificent gift of Edw. Akroyd, Esq.,
who built and endowed it, 1858-9,
at a cost of 70,0002., should be seen
by evCTv lover of Ecclesiology who
visits Halifax. It well deserves its
reputation, although it has been sug-
gested—with some tmth— that the
main building has a somewhat stunted
appearance in proportion to the height
of the spire. (Haley Hill, on which
it stands, is on the line of the old turn-
pike-road to Bradford; and a little
above the ch. a branch of the Boman
road from Manchester to Ilkley crosses
>t. On the waytoAU Soul's Chui:ch,
the Nor^i Bridge, a lofty viaduct cf
6 arches, is crossed, by which aji
awkward ascent and descent i<
avoided.
The plan of the ch. comprises nave
with aules terminating eastward in
transepts; chancel with N. and S.
chapels ; and tower and spire at the
N. W. angle of the nave. The style
is early Dec. (Geometrical). The
exterior stone is millstone-grit, from
quarries near the town ; with dres^
ings and quoins of magnesian lime-
stone, from Steetley, near Woriaop
(tiiie limestone of which Doncaster
Gh. is built). The nave is 87 ft.
6 in. long by 54 ft broad. The
height of the tower and ^ire is
236 ft.
A clerestory of 15 lights, with a
continuous internal arcade, carried on
shafts of Derbyshire marble, runs
above. Shafts of Aberdeen granite,
carried on carved corbels, rise be-
tween each bay, and support the
main roof trusses. In the spandrils of
the principal arches are sculptured
medallions, with (N.) SS. Oregorr,
Augustine, Ambrose, and Jerome;
(S.) SS. Polycarp, Isnatius, Ambrose.
and Clement. A Tow waJl ol ala-
baster, carrying a screen of ham-
mered iron, divides the nave frasn the
chancel, the sculpture in which de-
serves attention. The reredos is of
English alabaster. Over the arches
into the N. and S. chapels are
sculptured groups, representing smgels
singing and carrying instmments c^
music.
The pulpit is of (?aen stone, sup-
ported on a shaft of Devonshire
marble, and enriched with carved
foliage and mosaics. The font is of
Cornish serpentine, on a pedestal of
polished red granite.
The stained glass throughout the
ch. is very good.
Unfortunately, the smoky atmo-
sphere is beginning to blacken and
to partly decompose the magneeiao
limestone from which the statues of
tba exterior are spulptored. The
Boute ^^. -"Halifax: Museum, TJte OtbheL
441
local griMono is unaffected. A peal
of 8 l^lls hangs in the tower.
Near, bnt not adjoining the eh.,
is the burial-groand of tiie parish,
also provided by Mr. Akrojd. In it
is a small but very good mortoaiy
chapel. An arch opens from it inio
the monumental chapel of the Ak-
rords, in which is an altar-tomb with
effigy of the late Jonathan Akrqyd,
IBsq, (father of the founder), by Joseph
Oott, of Rome. Good view nt>m the
top of the hill behind ch.
Near All Souls' Church is Bank-
JUldf the residence of Edward Akrord,
£sq. ; and nearly opposite is the
^conted manufacloTy of the same
proprietor. This is not to be seen
-without a special order or introduc-
tion, but will amply repay a visit.
Above 1000 hands are employed. In
one room more than 800 looms may
be seen in motion at once, a wonder-
ful scene, the apparent confusion of
-which is in reality the most com-
2)lete order. In the woollen-room the
wool passes through various processes
until it becomes windable.
At an early period Halifax esta«
Uished a trade with South America,
and has ever since retained it Bugs,
&c., are made here for various South
American maricets at which Indian
tribes supply themselves; and the
patterns of these, as well as the
colours and designs of other fabrics
manufactured expressly for particular
conntries, are curious and noticeable.
(Pennant, who passed through Hali-
fax about 1770, says that ''says of
a Une colour ** were manufactured
here expressly for Guinea. They
were packed in pieces of 12} yds.,
and wrapped in an oilcloth painted
with negroes and elephants " in order
to captivate the natives.") Damasks
(lot curtains), tablecloths, and various
fabrics for dresses are made here.
(The work is of the same general
character as that at Saltaire, Rte. 84.)
Messrs. SmUdtworiK* mills at Hali-
fax are also for woollens, and are on
the 89me large (or even larger) scale*
Messrs. Cros8ley\ at Dean Cloiigli
(the largest mills in the place, em-
ploying more than 3000 hands), is a
aeat carpet manufactory, in which
Brussels, tapestry, velvet pile, and all
descriptions of carpets are made.
Carpets, however, are to be bought
(ordinarily) in London cheaper than
in Halifax.
The fine Chureh of 8t, Mary,
buUt, at a cost of 8000L, by Michael
Stocks, Esq., was consecrated Aug. 4,
1870.
The Mweunii in Harrison Road,
contains a few local relics and an-
tiquities of interest. Some large
querns are arranged in the hall;
and in the upper room are a number
of bronze celts and copper spearheads,
found in 1856 at Upper Westercroft
2uarry, near Shelf, m the parish of
talifax; a candlestick of the 14th
cent, (a very good example), found
among old meSd ; and the staple for
supporting the axe of the Halifax
gibbet. Here also is a tolerable col-
lection of fossil plants, shells, &c.,
from the Halifax coal-measures.
In a court opening from CUthet
Lane, on the W. side of the town, the
raised platform of stones about 8 ft.
by 6 ft. ^with steps leading up to it),
on whidi the famous Balifax gibbet
formerly stood, is still in existence
in the enclosed garden of a house at
the top of the lane. May be seen b^
application at the house. The whole
is now grass-grown, and the walls of
the court are covered with ivy. More
than 50 persons were beheaded hero
between 1541, when the gibbet was
first erected, and 1850, when the last
execution took place. The criminal
detected stealing cloth (or any com-
modity of the vdue of Idlti) within
the liberty of the forest of Hardwick
rhand-habend, back-berand, or con-
tessand) was carried beforo the bailiff
of the lord of the manor of Halifax,
who, irfter summoning to his assist-
ance 4 •* frithburgers ^ from 4 town-
ships within the precmcts of the
liberty, examined the truth of the
442 BaiUe 86.^E(difax : Manor 0(mrtrhou§ey The Park.
charge. (These jurors seem to have
had no great reputation for integritj.
Bp. Hall, in his * Satires,* writes^
- Or some more etmlUUoed Jnrar of the reat,
*f Impanelled on an Halilkz inquest.*')
If the offender was found guilty, and
the trial had taken place on the prin-
cipal market-daj, he was heheaded at
once. He could be executed only on
such a day, and if the trial had taken
place before it, he was exhibited, on
the ordinary market-days, in the
stocks, with the stolen goods on his
back, or before him. The gibbet
itself, a ]7ide instrument, having an
axe weighing about 8 lbs., fixed in a
block of wood, and suspended within
a framework 15 ft hign, grooved so
that the axe might descend rapidly,
may be regarded as the original of
the French guillotine, since the Scot-
tish ** maiden," from which the guil-
lotine was partly copied, was itself a
copy of the Halifax engme. The
Begent Morton, who introduced
ithe *' Maiden " to Scotland, and was
himself ihe first to suffer by it, is said
to have witnessed an execution at
Halifax, and, says De Foe, to have
been much pleased with the per-
formance.'' The Maiden still remains
in the Museum of the Society of
Antiquaries at Edinburgh. The axe
of the Halifax gibbet is preserved at
Wakefield, in the house of Mr. Lomb,
steward of the Duke of Leeds, lord of
the manor of Halifax. Each person who
suffered by it is entered in the town
register as " decoUatus.** It was the
severity and unusual character, of the
punishment that caused the insertion
of Halifax in the so-called " thieves'
litany,'' '* From HeU, Hull, and Hali-
fax, good Lord deliver usl" The
fibbet was removed in 1620.; and De
oe, writing early in the last centuiy,
remarks that, *< though criminals have
from that time been left to the ordi-
luiry course of justice, we do not find
stealing cloth nom the tenters so fre-
quent now as it was in former times.''
"Tour through Oreai BrUain, 111.
It is said, but without much mxQuh
rity, that, if the criminal vras be-
headed for stealing an animal, an
arrangement was niade by which the
animtu itself set free the rope sop-
porting the axe, and thus took revenge
on its own account.
The Manor Cbur^ftoiise, in which
criminals were tried, still remains in
Nelson Street, near the parish ch. It
contains a room once fitted with an in-
clined plane, so that all present coold
see. The rest of the floor was level,
for bailiff, jurors, witnesses, and pri-
soner. (The sloping floor is now
covered with an horizontal one.) On
each side are flat-headed windows,
divided bv oaken munnions.
At theheftd of the town isa People^*
Parkf laid out by Sir Joseph Paxton,
and given to Halifax by the late Sir
Francis Crossley, M.P. for the West
Biding, of whom there is a statue, by
J, Durham, in a pavilion at the end
of the garden. The statue was erected
in 1860 by the inhabitants of the
town ^< as a tribute of gratitude and
respect to. one whose public benefac-
tions and private virtues deserve to be
remembered." From the terrace in
front, a eood view is obtained of the
rocky valley in which Halifax stands,
with Halifax Bank — '* steep, rugged,
and sometimes slippery," says DeFoe
The old quadrangular open Market
Place, surrounded by a colonnade and
^eries,has a curious Venetian piazia-
iike character. It is just behind the
Independent Chapel (see anteS.
The town is built chiefly of brown
freestone from the quanries of N. and
S. Owram, contrastmg agreeably with
the glaring red brick of Manchester
and Leeds. There still remain a few
picturesque iimber-frfoned honses in
the old nuurket-place. VajnieX de Foe^
when forced to fly from London on
account of his political writings, re-
sided here under the name of I^.
Nettleton, in the Back Lane, at the
si^ of the Bose and Crown. He is
said to have here written his treatise
Bouie 36.— 2ZZt999iM)fi&---5<H06rby.
443
*De Jure Dirino/ and part of
*Bobinson Cnisoe.*---Other celebrities
of Halifax and its wide parish are
Senry Briggt^ a veir learned mathe-
uiatician, and friend of Napier, the
inventor of logarithms, bom here in
1556, died Savilian Professor at Ox-
ford in 1630 ; Archbp. TiHotson (see
ante) ; and Sir Senry SavtUs, one of
the most accomplished scholars of his
day, and provost of Eton, where he
published (1612) an edition of ' Chiy-
sostom,* which ** both in splendour of
execution and in the erudition dis-
played in it ... . leaves immeasur-
ably behind it every earlier produc-
tion of the English press." — Sal-
lam, Lit Stat. The expense, said
to have been 80002!, was borne entirely
by Savile, who was bom at Bradley,
in the parish of Halifax, in 1549, and
died at Eton in 1622.
The 32nd regt, the men of which
were formerly known as '* haver-cake
kds,'' used to be recruited almost
entirely from Halifax and its neigh-
lx)urhood. The sergeant, when re-
cruiting here, carried a " haver-cake ^
(oat-cake — ^the common bread of the
district) stuck on the point of his
sword.
A branch of the Calder Canal,
carried up the vale of the Hebble to
Halifax in 1828, gives the town a
water-communication with Liverpool
on one side, and with Hull on the
other. Here are a canal basin with
warehouses, and a supply of water is
{)umped up through a tunnel 1} m.
ong from a depth of 109 ft., out of
the Bochdale Canal.
On Skircoat Moor (now SaviUe
Park), W. of the town, a handsome
Orphanage has been erected by the
Crossley family, at a cost of 50,0002.,
and an endowment of 3000Z. per ann.
It provides for the education of some
250 children.
The church of IBingioorOij 3 m.
N. of Halifax, has been restored;
and another cb. has been built in a
remote and populous quarter of the
parish, near mich a park and re-
creative ground of about 60 acres has
been provided by Col. Akroyd, M.P.
A short branch line, passing down
the valley of the Hebble, but turning
off toward Copley, connects Halifax
with the stat. of Sowerby Bridge on
the Lancashire and Yorkshire Bly.
The valley is not unpicturesque,
although mills and tall cliimneys rise
in all directions.
Sovjerhy Bridge Stat, itself is one
of those rapidly increasing, over-
grown villages, merging into towns,
which has buret into existence since
1825, as a seat of the cotton trade and
woollen manufacture. It stands at the
angle of the vale of Bipponden, down
which the Bochdale jRoad descends
from Blackstone Edge; and at the
point where the Bochdale Canal joins
the Calder Navigation. The railroad
here crosses the valley on an ele-
vated viaduct of 5 arches, looking
down on the village, the new Town-
hall and the ch. of 8t George, the
river, and canals. In addition to the
railroad stat., here are commodious
wharfs, com, worsted, and scribbling-
mllls, chemical works, and iron foun-
dries.
The village of Sowerby lies 1 m. S.
of this, on a height above the valley.
Its Church, rebuilt 1763, contains a
statue of Archbp. TiUotson, erected
in conformity with the will of his
erandnieces. He was bora (1630) at
Baugh End in this parish — an old
house, but in its present state later
than the date of the archbp.^s birth.
It may have been renewed by him.
The parents of TiUotson were de-
cided Puritans.
[The hirii road from Sowerby
Bridge to Bochdale in Lancashire
crosses Blackstone Edge — a portion of
the hill-chain running from West-
moreland into Derbyshire, and some-
times called the ** backbone of Eng-
land." Blackstone Edge is on the
extreme border of Yorkshire; and
iU
Houie SQ.—VdUi of Calder.
the road is carried directly over it,
ascending it by a series of zigzags,
winding along the edge of a ravine,
and over the shoulders of the hills.
Near the top are several great pools
or reservoirs, which supply the Eoch-
dale Canal. The summit is a dreary
open moor of heath and black bo?,
which from its colour probably
gave the hill its name. It is little
altered since the days of Taylor the
water<poet, who, writing in the reign
of James L, says, — '< I rode over such
ways as were past comparison or
amendment, for when I went over
a lofty mountain cdled Blackstone
Edge I thought myself in the land
of break-necke, it was so very steep
and tedious." It may now, however,
be crossed without such traveller's
dangers as DeFoe describes in a most
characteristic passage (Tour Through
Great Britain, iiL 73), recording his
i'oumey from Rochdale to HaBfax.
't was in August, 1714 (?), but the
" mountains were covered with snow ; **
and when the party got to the top of
Blackstone Edge, "it was not easy
to express the consternation we were
in. The wind blew exceedingly hard,
and drove the snow so directly in our
faces, that we could not possibly keep
our eyes open to see our way, nor, if
we could, was there any to be dis-
covered, except as we were showed it
by a frightful precipice on one hand,
and uneven ground on the other.
Our very horses betrayed their un-
easiness at it ; and a poor spaniel dog
that was our fellow-traveller, and
usually diverted us with giving us a
mark for our gun, tum^ tail and
cry'd.** After this came **a sur-
prising clap of thunder, the first that
ever I heard in a storm of snow,
or, I hope, ever shall.*' But they
overcame all difficulties at last, taking
nearly the whole day to ride the
8 miles from Blackstone Edge to
Halifax.]
At Sowerbv Bridge we enter the
vale of the daJlder, Sie nmin stream
of which rises in Lancashire, betwet?n
Bochdale and Todmorden, and des-
cends by Dewsbury and Wakefield to
join the Aire at Castleford. The
YSkHej becomes more and more pic-
turesque as we approach Hebden
Bridge; and thence to Todmorden
presents a most remarkable mlxtore
of wild mountainous scenery with the
works and dense population of a manu-
facturing district
pn this comer of Yoiicshire, which
is generally known as the "moor
countiy," the word royd, either alone
or as a suffix (Mytholmroyd, Hol-
royd, Ackroyd, &c.), is very comnKm.
It is apparently confined to this part
of England ; and almost certamlr
means essarted land — ^land cleared
from wood and tree-roots. This is
the meaning of the termination rode^
so frequent in the Hartz country —
Elbingero^, Gemrode, &c. It 'has
also been regarded as the A.-S. rad,
converted into " rovd *' by the pecu-
liar pronunciation of the T^est Riding;
and the prefix of local names of whicli
it forms part may seem to support
this notion — asatony-roydj " the stony
road ;" hod-royd, ** the old road ;*^ hoi-
roydf ** the hollow road ;" hoto-royd^
"the high or hill road," &c. (The
word rad or rode is used witii similar
adjuncts in A.-S. charters.) Hood^ a
measure of land, has also been held
to be the original of royd ; but the
cognate H. O. rode seems, on the
whole, to suggest the most satisfac-
tory explanation.]
The stat. beyond Sowerby Bridge
is reached after passing a long tunnel
Luddenden Foot Stat.,
Mythdlmroyd Stat — the ch. of
Sowerbv is seen on a hill, rt, — and
Hebden Bridge^iBt. These villages
are assemblages of mills, and cottages
for their «* hands," like all othera in
this district Near Hebden Bridge the
course of the Calder has been diverted,
to save the expense of canrinff the
railway over it.
XtouU S^.-'BqptonttaU—Todmordeth
ii6
The upper part of the Vale of Galder
lies in the parish of Halifax, and
TV- i thin its limits 9 tributary streams
fall into the river from the moorlands
on the right and left. In almost
every instance a little town or colony
of factories and dwelling-houses is
built at the point of junction ; and
spreads thence up and down the
main valley, with such rapid in-
crease, that the village will soon
become united. This is the countrpr
which De Foe describes in his
' Tour,' when (about the year 1714)
it must have been very populous,
though the life here must have been
somewhat different from what it is at
present. <*The nearer we came to
Halifax,^ he says (Tow through Great
Britain, vol. iii.), "we found the
houses thicker, and the villages
greater in eveiy bottom, and not only
so, but the sides of the hills, which
were very steep eveiy way, were
spread with houses .... In short,
after we had mounted the third hill,
we found the country one continued
village, though every way mount-
ainous, hardly a house standing out
of a speaking distance from ancrther ;
and as the day cleared up we could
see at every house a tenter, and on
almost every tenter a piece of cloth,
or kersie, or shalloon, which are the
three articles of this country's labour.
These by tiieir whiteness reflecting
the bright rays of the sun that played
upon Siem, formed, I thought, the
most agreeable sieht I ever saw ; the
hiUs rising and UiUing so thick, and
the valleys opening so differently,
that sometimes we could see two or
three nules this way, sometimes as
far another .... Tho' we met few
people without doors, yet within we
saw tiie houses full of lusty fellows,
some at the dye-fat, some at the loom,
others dressing the cloths; the wo-
men and children carding or spin-
ning ; all employed from the youngest
to the oldest ; scarce anything above
4 years old, but its hands were suffi-
cient for its own support Not a
beggar to be seen, not an idle person,
except here and there in an alms-
house, built for these that are ancient
and past working. The people in
general live long : they enjoy a good
air, and under such circumstances
hard labour is naturally attended
with the double blessing both of
health and riches.**
The mention of " shalloon '^ is a
proof that the worsted manufacture
(now the great staple of all this dis-
trict) had been introduced before De
Foe wrote. Woollen or cloth manu-
facture had been general here from a
much earlier peri(3. (See ante, Uali-
fax.)
[1 UL rt of Hebden Bridge is Hep-
tonstall, on a bleak hill, where the
old ch., now a ruin, dates from about
1180, The modem church, of Perp.
character, was built near the old one,
1854. It is dedicated to St. Thomas ,
the old ch. to ** St. Thomas Becket."
The hills beyond Heptonstall, on the
extreme border of Yorkshire, are wild
and solitary. ** I am at the highest
S>int of the mountain road from
umley to Heptonstall I
like the long lines of these hills with
their endless variety and sweet
subtlety of curve. They are not
mountains, nor have they any preten-
sions to tiie energetic character of
the true mountain fonn; but they
have a certain calm beauty and a
sublime expression of gigantic power
in repose, uat we do not find in the
loftier regions.** — P. G. HamertoHj
' Painters' Camp.,' i. p. 10.]
From Hebden Bridge to Todmor-
den the valley of the Calder — ^here
usually called ** The Vale of Tod-
morden" — is very picturesque. Itofty
hills of millstone-grit close close it in
on either side; and the mixture of
woollen and cotton mills with patches
of ancient wood and old houses, tes-
tifying to the former condition of
the vcdiey, is striking and character-
istic.
14ft B<mte$ 86^-'TodMcrden.--^7.— Leeds to Manckedet.
Eattwood Stat is passed, and
then 3 tunnels— Horsfall, 424 yards
Ions; Castle Hill, 192 yards; and
Millwood, 225 yards — are traversed
within a short distance of each other.
Nearly ahove the first of these, Cros-
stone C^pel, perched on the sommit
of the hill, IS a very conspicuous
ohject ; it was rehuilt in 1884, and
its tower was struck hy lightning,
1838, on the day of the Queeirs
coronation. In its lofty situation, it
resembles one of those churches in
Boman Catholic countries which are
the resort of pilgrims.
Rt a little beyond the Todmorden
Viaduct the old mansion of Stansfield
Hidl looks down from the hill upon
the railroad. It was probably built
about the time of Henry VII., but is
much altered and partly modernised.
Behind this viaduct, in the angle
of the valley, is a ch., completed in
1832. (The old parish ch. of Tod-
morden, date 1T70, remains in the
middle of the town, and, after having
fallen into the hands of Dissenters,
was recovered for the Church, 1866.)
Crossing the viaduct, the rly. enters
Todmorden Stat Inns : Queen's ;
White Hart. This is a rustic town,
flourishing in the manufacture of cot-
tons, calicoes, fustians, dimities, and in
the spinning of cotton yam, situated
on the Bochdale Canal, which hence
accompanies the Calder river as far as
Sowerb]^ Bridee. The town stands
partly in Tonshire and partlv in
Lancashire, on the borders of the 2
counties, and near the junction of 4
townships, with a united population
of 23,861 in 1881.
There are more than 40 cotton-
spinners and manufacturers here, at
tne head of whom was the late John
Fielden, M.P., commonly called
**King of Todmorden." His nuun-
moth cotton-mUl in the town is
flanked on either side by a weaving-
shop— a room measuring 100 yds. by
60 yds. on the ground, lighted from
above by skylights, filled with 900 or
1000 pair of looms, placed as clobc
together as is possmle to allow
passage for the 400 or 500 men,
women, and children who attend to
them. It is scarcely possible to see
to the other end tmough the inter-
minable lines of shafts, straps, warp&
and beams. A very handscme Town
ffaU, of classic architectore, was
erected here in 1875 at the expense
of Messrs. Fielden (Gibson, areht).
In plan it is a rotunda, with a circular
colonnade of Corinthian columns at-
tached to a square. At one side i^
the statue in bronze of John Fielden.
who obtained the Act for limiting the
time of factory labour to 10 hooi? per
day. The statue is by FtAey^ B^i..
and was erected by public subecrip-
tion.
The CkutU, Dobro^d, is the resi-
dence of J. Fielden, Esq.
ROUTE 37,
UEEOS TO MANCHESTER, BT DEWS-
IBURY AHD HUDDERSFIELO.
(London and North-Wedem m^.
-*i0 trains daily.)
Leaving Leeds from the WeUingtan
(Central) Stat., a viaduct of 44 lofty
arches conducts this rly. through and
over part of the town of Leeds, tra-
versing the Leeds and Bradford line,
the Leeds and Liverpool Canal by an
arch of 70 ft. span, and the rirer
Aire by one of 105 fl span. Passing
stations at WorOey and CKwnoeO, we
reach (in about } hr. from Leeds)
Morley St^t The Pop. of this town-
ship, in 1881. 15,016, is almost entirely
engaged in the woollen-cloth manofac-
Bouie S7. "-Rowley JSbkK— JB«lfey.
U1
tore. There is litUe to notice here be-
yond the fact that the ancient tehapel
of Morle;jr was let by Saville, Eariof
SoBsex, in the reign of Charles I.,
on a lease of 500 yean to the Pres-
byterians, from whose hands it has
never been recovered. It remains a
Galvinistic chapel, though 'still re-
taining in nart the ontwanl character
of a ch. Unhappily it has been *' re-
stored,'' and man^ of its old features
destroyed. The town (which gives its
name to the Wapentake) was com-
pletely ruined by the Scots, who re-
mained here for some time during one
of their English forays in the reig^ of
Edw.I. Iimnediatelybejondthestat
the rly. enters a tunnel 2 m. in length.
(The Bradford, Leeds, and Wakefield
rly. is carried over this tunnel.)
After emerging from it, the ruins of
Hauiey Hc3Z, once the residence of
a branch of the Savilles, are passed 1.
The Hall, built in 1590, bv Sir John
Saville, first mayor of Leeds (the
borough was incorp. in 1626) was one
of the finest mansions in Yorkshire,
60 yds. square, with a central court.
It was garrisoned for the Parliament
by Sir John Saville, and battered and
taken by storm hy the Earl of New-
castle ; who with the generosity of a
cavalier gave everj protection to the
garrison and their leader. A large
part of the house was pulled down,
and the materials sold, in 1730
(wrought stone from the mansion
3>peai8 in many houses in Morlev,
irstal, and Batley); and tie
ancient park, of 900 acres, has
been enclosed and cultivated. Near
the hall is "Lady Anne'9 Well,''
whilst sitting at which, a certain
**Lady Ann^ was, says the tradi-
tion, worried and eaten by wolves.
The well was formerly visited by the
neighbours on Pahn Sunday ; and it
is still believed that on the morning
of that day it assumes all sorts of
colours.
A small stone near Howley Farm
(which was built from the mate-
rials of the Hall, and contains some
wainscotted rooms) mariLs the spot
where Nevisoh, a noted highwayman,
murdered one Fletcher, in 1684 ; and
W the speed of his horse reached
York so soon after the deed, that he
was enabled to establish an alibi.
At the back of the farmhouse are
some remains of the mansion of the
Mirfields, who were here long be-
fore the Savilles.
The rly. traverses the wooded
valley of a stream descending to the
Galder at Dewsbury, and (receiving
rt. the branch rly. running to Birstafi
see po8t} reaches
jBo^Stat. TheC7wfc^i8 8eenon
the hill rt. It is Perp., ind con-
tains the altar-tomb with effigies of
a Mirfield and wife, one of the an-
cient owners of Howley ; and at the
foot is a hrcus for John, Lord Savile
of Howley, buried here in 1630.
There are some fragments of good
old stained glass.
St. Thomas's Church, on the hill
between Batley and Horley (Sheard,
archit.), has a good tower and spire,
and was built in 1868. [Before
the introduction of the factory
system, with the vast influx of
population which, followed, all this
country, full of low, wooded hills,
must have been very pleasing. Mills
and tall smoky chimneys, however,
have spread and are spreading over
it in all directions. A n^work
of roads unites the many *' streets''
and hamlets in which the inhabitants
are warmly housed; and the relics of
more ancient life, lingering here and
there, contrast strangely with the
stir and bustle of nnsightiy factories.
There is evidence of wealth and
activity on every side ; but this great
clothing district of Yorkshire hardlv
carries on its operations with such
picturesque associations or smround-
mgs as the cloth-workers of old
Flanders— once the centre of the
woollen trade, as Yorkshire is now.
Bailey (Pop. of township in 1871,
20,871) is the head-quarters of the
il8
JSottfo Sl^^BirataUr-^Oakwett Hall
*' shoddy** trade, but has otherwise
no special interest for the tourist
Old clothes are bought here from all
parts of Europe; are torn to pieces
Dy machinery ; and at last reappear
in the shape of various fabrics in
which the presence of ** shoddy** is
not generally suspected. <*From
what I saw in the tenter-ground,*'
says Mr. White, **! discovered that
pilot cloth is dioddy; that glossy
beavers and silky-looking mohairs
are shoddy ; that the Petershams, so
largely exported to the United States,
are snoddy; that the soft, delicate
cloths in which ladies feel so com-
fortable and look so graceful, are
shoddy ; that the * fabric ' of
Talmas, Raghms, and paletots ....
is shoddy. And if Gfermany sends
ns abundance of rags, we send to
Gennany enormous quantities of
shoddy m return. The best quality
manufactured at Batley is worth lOs.
a yard ; the commonest not more than
Is.**— Jlfont^ in Torkthire.
The shreds and fragments of doth
are first torn and ground to pieces by
a "devil,** a revolving cylinder full
of blunt steel teeth, which fills the
air with "devil's dust,** and throws
out the ''flocks*' in a heap before
it. The ^ flocks,'* so produced, are
carried to the mixing-house, where,
** according to the quality required,
the long fibre is mixed in certain
proportions with the short.** They
are then passed under a series of
rollers, and come forth from the last
looking something like wool. This
passes through the *' scribbling ** and
"carding*' machines; is wound on
spindles, spun, and then passes
through a railing process untu the
Siece is finished and ready for the
yer. From the dye-house the doth
is carried to the tenter-ground. The
whole process oi converting the short,
frizzly flocks, "resemblmg negro
hair/' into something which if not
true broadcloth is veiy hearly as
serviceable, is curious and interest-
ing. An introduction is generally
for seeing tho mills, bert
as elsewhere.
(In the Ghnrch of Woodkirk (re-
built except the tower), 2 m. N.£. of
Batley, is the tomb-slab of Sir Joho
Topcliff, Chief Justice of the King's
Bench and Master of the Mint, tesn^
Hen. VII. and VIIL He died at his
house at Topdiff, in this parish, in
1514. Some part of the old hoosc
remains.)
[The Oreat Northern Bly., be-
tween Bradford and HaliEax* here
touches the present line, and the
trains stop at Batley Stat. The
sh(Ht *' Birstall branch*' joins the L.
and N.W. Blv. a litUe above the
stat BirddU^ aboat 2 tn. from
Batley, contains numerous wooUeo
and ** shoddy " mills. The ch. is late
Perp. (temp. Hen. VIH.) and fine.
The parish abounds in stone and iron,
and contains numerous stone-quazrics.
Near BirstaU is OahoeU Uallj the
original of " Shirley,** in Miss Bronte's
novel. "• The enclosure in front, half
court, half ^puden; the panelled
hall, with the gallery opening into
the bedchambers running round ; the
barbarous peach-coloured drawing-
room; the bright look*out through
the garden-door npon the grassy
lawns and terraces behind, where the
soft-hued pigeons still love to 000
and strut in the snn,~are described in
'Shirley.* In the great hall hangs
a mighty pair of stag's horns, and
dependent from them a printed card,
recording the fact that on the 1st
Sept 1763, there was a great hunt-
ing match when this stag was alaio :
and that 14 gentlemen shared in the
chase, and dmed on the spoil in that
hall, along with Fairfax Feamder,
Esq., the owner.**— ilfrk OaMly
*Life of C. Bronte.* (There is an
actud "Fidd Head** a litUe beyond
Oakwell, at which Dr. Priestley was
bom.) Miss Bronte was for some
time at school at Soe Head^ a house
standing rt. of the road from Ijeedi
BmU ffl.—Deubiimry.
449
to Hoddenfleld, not far above Kirk-
less. OUderwme Street, a village
about 2 m. N.W. of Borstall, is sup-
posed to derive its name from a colony
of ** Gmlderlaud ^ clot^ weavers, who
settled here in 1571.]
BaUeu Stat is only 3 or 4 mmntes
distant from
Dewtbury Stat. (Inns : Royal
Hotel, indifferent ; King's Arms, simi-
lar; both near stat Pop. in 18^,
10,001; in 1861, 18,148; in 1881,
29,617. It was created a COTporate
borough in 1862, anc^ with Batley,
returns one member to Parliament.)
The town of Dewsbury, the centre of
u great branch of the woollen manu-
facture, comprising cloths, blankets,
druggets, and carpets, stands plea-
sanSy on the N. baiok of the Calder.
In and about the town are numerous
woollen-mills, some worsted-mills,
and some shoddy factories. A weekly
market is held in the Cloth-hall, built
in 1837. New public buildings,
banks, and schools have risen here,
as in other Yorkshire manufacturing
towns. Some churches have been
built, none calling for special notice.
Observe the (khoperative Buildings
in North Gate, erected at a cost of
120,0002., including stores, reading
rooms, large music hall; also the
handsome olock of buildings of the
DevMbufff Pioneer Industrial Sooiety,
consisting chiefly of artixans, who
have laid out 50,0002. of their savings
upon it
An ancient tradition (unsupported,
hom-ever, by any statement in Bede,
the only trustworthy authority) as-
serts that Paulinus, the first preacher
of Christianity in Northumbria (see
York, Bte. 1 : and Ocodmomham,
Rte. 8), addressed the heathen
Saxons on the spot where the Church
of AU Saints now stands ; baptised
many thousands in the Calder; and
afterwards founded the ch. itself. It
is at least certain that Dewsbury is
the mother ch. of all this district, and
[Yorkshire.']
that many neighbouring churches,
including those of Huddersfield and
Bradford, still make an annual pay-
ment to it (The original parish oc-
cupied an area of 4^ m., extend-
ing quite to the Lancashire border,
and for some distance idong it) The
outer walls of the present building
were rebuilt in 1767; and in 1823
the ch. was again altered and en-
larged. It seems to have been ori-
ginall^r an £. Eng. structure; and
2ie existing nave arcades are of that
period; the piers on the N. side
having detached shafts, ringed. The
nave roof TPerp.) is nearly flat, with
bosses at tne angles of tiie panels.
The chancel arch is £. Eng. The
chancel itself has been much altered,
and shows only flat-headed lights at
present The S. and N. windows are
tilled with fragments of fine old glass
of various dates. The £. window is
modem. The font (Tran8.-Norm.) is
worth notice.
Some tombstones in the ch.-yard.
of the 17th and 18th cents., are worth
attention. Built in the W. wall of
the S. aisle are some fragments of
ancient carving, representing our
Lord in Majestr, the miracle of Cana,
and that of the loaves and fishes.
There are others in the vicarage
garden. These remains have been
called Saxon, but are more probably
early Norman. There are also
some fragments of a Saxon tomb,
discovered when the ch. was repaired,
and resembling remains of a similar
character at Bedale. (See Rte. 23.)
Leaving Dewsbury, a viaduct carries
the rly. over the river Calder, the
valley of which is still pretty; and
passing the stat at TJtornhiUJunetiont
the line, as far as it proceeds through
the Calder valley, is the same as tlutt
of the Lancashire and Yorkshire Rly.
between Wakefield and Halifax (sec
Rte. 39. Thomhill Ch. seen on the
hill 1. is there described). The rly.
again crosses the river, where the
valley is very picturesque, in spite of
2 6
460
RoiuU 37. -^HtMer^ieUL
the smoky town and inky stream,
before reaching
Miffield Junct, Stat (Here a
branch line runs across to Low Moor
and Bradford. See Rte. 35.)
MirfiM (rt of the stat) is a large
mannfactnring Tillage (Pop. of parish
in 1881, 11,512), with many cotton
and woollen-mills. The Cimifrck of
St, Mary, a fine bnilding (archit. 8tr
G, G. 8oot£), was completed in 1874.
The tower alone of the older chnrch
After again crossing the Calder,
the rlj. leaves the I^caahire and
Yorkshire line; and crossing the
Colne yogi above Cooper Bridge, where
that river f aUs into the Gaider, pro-
ceeds np the valley of the Oolne to
Hnddersfield. (At
Bradley Junction a short branch
turns off rt., and soon again falls in
with the Lancashire and Torkdiire
line, thus connecting Halifax with
Hnddersfieid.)
Huidertfldd Stat. (Buffet here),
nsed jointly by London and N.W. and
York, and Lancashire ^Ts., in St.
George's S<^uare {Inns : The Creoj^e,
best ; Imperial, good ; The Qneen ; Ae
Cherry Tree). The town (Pop. in
1861, S4374, showing an increase of
8994 smce 1851 ; in 1881, 81,825)
from the rly. stat. is somewhat im-
posing. It is bnilt of stone, has fine
wide modem streets and many noble
buildings of considerable architectural
pretensions. Such are some <^ the
iMUiks, warehouses, and factories. It
stands partly in the vallev of the
Colne, and partly on a hill rising
toward the if.W. (The river Holme,
which rises on the same high ground,
dose on the Yorkshire bolder, as the
Colne, joins that river just above
Hoddenmeld, and the combined
streams are thenceforth known as
the Colne till the junction with tiie
Calder.) There is some ptctnresque
and pleasing scenery in the neigh-
bourhood of Hnddersfieid, though t^
surrounding couptiy is by no meafl
the most fertile district of Yorkshire
The coal, which is found here ii
plenty, and the abundance of wat&
power, are the real canaes of the prt<
sperity of the town, which in 18^!
had only a ptVpulation of 726a Th
stwle bade of cloth-weaTing is car
ried on, not only in the town, but «
all the surroanding valleys, viliagff
and hamlets : thus rendering it a i4
more domestic occupation than a
Leeds, Bradford, or Halifax. Tbi
condition of the workpeople bXso ^
better than in those towns, tb^
employment being more constant
their appearance more healthy, fbi
children rosy-cheeked, the cottagd
comfortable, and often fninished will
a piano. (Musical power and tasti
are not less noticeable among tb^
vrorkpeople of Hnddersfieid than n
the other manufacturing towns.) TIn
agriculture of the district has gre^^h
improved since the early part of tW
century, when it produced little mort
than a scanty crop of oats. Th<
older part of the town, in addition t^
the manor of Almondbnry, is the pn>
pertr of Sir John Bamsden, Bart, anii
has been in the possession of his f«
mily since the days of Charles II -^
story is told that an offer was onw
made to Mr. Firth, a wealthy Quaker,
who owned two small patches '.^^
ground in one comer of the town,
the only pieces not belonging to the
Bamsdens, to purchase them hy
covering them with guineas; and
that his answer was '* Set them ed^*
ways, and the ground is yours." The
Cmt and precedmg Baronets hate
larspe purchasers of land, ex-
tending tiieir property on the N. an^
W. side of the town.
The Estate Bmldin^, two splendn!
blocks of building, have been erect(Hi
by Shr John Bamsden for warehoo«s
and offices, the estate office fdnninp
the centre. These an near the ^^
tion, and in front of the statioD i«>
SofUe Z7.—Suddersfield.
451
tatue, in white marble, by Theed, of
>ir Robert Peel, in his robes as Chan-
ellor of the Exchequer.
Huddersiield (Odersfelt in Domes-
laj) was, no doubt (unless, as has
teen asserted, the stream running
hrough it was anciently called the
lother), so named from the Odere
•r Othere who established him-
elf here in the *• field " or wood-
learing by the river-side. It is the
aost westemly of the "fields," a
ermination always indlcatinfl; an
>pen space in the forest, which in-
rease in number as Sheffield is ap-
proached.
The churches are all modem. The
>est are St, John's, of Early Dec.
iharacter, built by Sir J. Bainsden,
roiu designs by Butterfiddj St,
Vltomaas^ also Early Dec, buUt by
he brothers Starkey, Sir G, G, Scotia
irchit. ; and St. Andrews^ Early Dec.,
W. H. OrosfHandj archit.
The parish Church (St Peter's)
ras entirely rebuilt in 1836; and is
aid to have been originally founded
in 1703) by Walter de taci, who
lad vowed to build a ch. at Hudders-
ield when in peril of his life among
he then dangerous morasses between
\aa place and Halifax. It still pays
I fee of recognition to the mother ch.
)f Dewsbury, but, until the Dissolu-
;ion, belonged to the Prioiy of Nostel,
ilso found^ by the Lacys. It con-
tains a monument to tlev. Henry
Venn, vicar from 1750 to 1778.
ThePMicHaUandBwough Court
in Prince's and Peel Streets, built
1878-82, at a cost of 50,000^ (Abbey,
archit.), contains a hall 140 ft. long.
The Chih Hall, a red-brick rotunda,
built by Sir John Bamsden in 1768,
was the emporium for the products
of the domestic manufacturers called
** clothiers," who exposed their goods
in the bulk or unfinished state.
Merchants from Leeds, Halifax, and
of Huddersfield itself, were the pur-
chasers, who dyed and dres^lsd the
cloths ready for the tailca: and draper.
The factory system has chaneed all
this, and the Hall, having become
less used year by year, has been con-
verted into an ^change and News
Boom,
There are in the town more than
100 woollen-mills, besides a few silk
and cotton factories. Firms of (Ger-
man merchants have been increasing
in all these towns of late years, and
do business mainly with tiie Conti-
nent.
The Toton EaU (1881) is a hand-
some ornate Italian building in
Princes St. (Abbey, of Huddersfield,
archit,)'
The Market Hatt (opened 1880,
archit., Hughes, of Lord St.) is
covered by a glass roof resting on
arched iron girders. The fa^e is of
stone^ with tower.
The Mechanics* InsUttOion — a
plain substantial building in North-
umberland-street, with news, lec-
ture, and class rooms — is worth a
visit. The Institute is one of the
most flourishing in the kingdom.
The Literary and So&ntific So-
ciety has purchased a building
formerly used as a chapel. There
is a small museum, and lectures and
conversaziones are given during the
winter.
The Yorkshire ArchsBologiocd and
TopograMeal Association, founded
in 1864, nas the nucleus of a library
in a room allotted to it by the Presi-
dent, Col. Brook, in Burston Boad.
A Bridge over the Colne, of one
noble span, was erected (1873), re-
E lacing the old one of 2 ardies with
iffh pitch, for which Blind Jack
of ^naresborough was the contractor.
At Dungeon Wood is a FubUo
Park (1880), presented to the town
by H. Beaumont, Esq., of Whitley.
In the neighbourhood of Hudders-
field are Whitiey Park, the old seat
of the Beaumonts, and Fixbu Hall
(W. C. C. Thornhill, Esq.). Pleasant
I excursions may be made to Almond-
bury (camp and village) and Wood-
some Hall ; and to Slack, the probable
2o 2
462
Souie 87. — Almandburfi.
site of the^ncient Cunbodnniim ; and
the short line of riy. to Eirkhorton
opens some pictaresque coontiy.
(1) JJmondbwry Camp (Castle
Hill as it is generally called) may
he reached hy Somerset Boad, or
from the Fenay Stat, on the Kirk-
hnrton Railway (see potC), (In the
garden of Dudmanione, the villa
^ W. B. Haigh, Esq., overlooking
what is called the «*Big Valley,^
is a remarkable block of millstone-
Slt, the relic of an escarpment,
ving in it a cavern precisely like a
sea-cave. The rock itself has all the
marks of the action of the sea. It is
on the edge of the coal-measores.)
Castle Hill is aboat 900 ft above the
sea ; and is crowned by an intrench-
ment (with a single moond and
fosse) taking the form of the snmmit
of the hill, but with a moond run-
ning across the enclosure a little
disUnce from either end, thus
making a central square division,
with two rounded extremities. No
Roman remains have been found
here, although the squared centre
seems to inmcate the work of that
people, and it is far from improbable
that a British camp on so command-
ing a position may have been occupied
by tne legionaries. CThe house
which stands within we camp is
entirely modem.) The Lacys had
a castle at Almondbury, granted to
them by King Stephen, who is said
to have built it
The view from Castle Hill is very
fine and extensive ; and the character
of the district is well seen. High
bare hills and ridges, with wooded
vallevs piercing them, stretch awav S.
and W. Staned^ and Holm Moss,
on the Lancashire border, are con-
spicuous. N. Hnddersfield is visible ;
and N.E. it is said that Tork Minster
is sometimes to be seen. The hills
and moors on which we look from
Castle Hill are dotted with many
tumuli, houses, and stone monuments
(rings and upright stones), indicating
that, in the British period, the db-|
trict was well peopled. There e
picturesque sceneiy in th^j
upper part of the Colne valley; bet
on the whole this high country'has bk.|
very great attractions for the toorist
The village of Jlmondbwif 11?^
N.E. under the Castle Hill. Th-:
Chureh (rest 1875), ded. to Mi
Saints, is worth a visit The chancel
is E. Ene. (circ. 1220?); the nare
Perp., wi& the date 1471. On cithw
side of the chancel are chantries
(Perp.), founded by the Kays d
Woodsome, and the Beaumonts of
Whitlev. In the chancel is an in-
cised slab for one of the Kays, date
1574. There is a very fine font
cover, of the same character as thi«e
at Halifax and Bradford: and in *
chest in the aisle (rude and earir
are preserved some ancient standiji:
measures for wine and com. Tb«
Perp. tower is lofty, with high win-
dows, filled with Perp. tracery, ia
the uppermost storv. Bound' th«
nave of the ch., close under' ihf
roof (within), runs the following in-
scription : —
** Thou man nnkiiid Have In thy nbki
My blody facce My woundes wyde On emr
side ¥Qt thy treflpas.— Thon synar hani
'runt blderward Bebold thy Savyor tn*-
Unkind thou art Frcmi me to depart Aa^
mercy 1 woald grant thee.— For loTe of tiK
The Jynres smeared me With skoanfw*^
Icyne and sharp With a crown or thorn Mr
hetd al to torn With a spert tbey thirlf^
my hart.— With nails tree They nailed ne
Fast both foyt and hand For thy tre<f«^
My pashon was To reed the from the fcsH^.—
Penne cannot write Nor man Indyght Pi1f«
that 1 had so. 'fhoaemadmybodyDloo Ff
wonnds both large and loiiK.«-Thoii ikmi ar
moredyre When thoadoai swyre Byi»'
here of my body Than the JwyesdU Th**.
Bpiylt my blod On the Mount of Qdvctv. -
Wherelbre pray the Thy swearing Uy tr
Dread God alteryn If thon will do m 1
heTyn shall thou go Among angels to fynt;.
Before the verses are the wonk
" Gtefer Dyson was the maker <^ tbus
Anno Domini 1522." Ghiffer Dywa'y
production may be compared with
one somewhat similar on the rooi-
Boute Sl.—Woodsofne HaU—SlacJc.
463
screen in Campsall Church. {See
Kte. 2.)
Almondbuiy Ch. seems to have
been one of tihe earliest offsets from
Dewsbory, to which it still pays dues.
A ver^ large parish stretcnes awaj
from \tt in which many daughter
churches have been built, twelve of
which now pay dues to Almondbury.
About 1 m. from the village is
Wbodsome JJoS (a seat of the Earl of
Dartmouth), one of the most charm-
ing old places in Torkshire. (Wood-
soine may be conveniently reached
from Fenay Stat., on tiie Kirk-
burton Bailway, see poiL) The
house, refronted in 1600, and aeain
somewhat altered in 1644, low,
gabled, and with long stone windows,
stands on a paved terrace, with a
balustrade in rront Tufts of autum-
nal crocus push upward between the
chinks of the pavement ; and masses
of old-fashioned "greenery" rise
against the grey widls themselves.
From the terrace there is a beautiful
view down the valley, which is much
\»-ooded. There is an air about the
whole place, not only of unbroken
antiquity but of the most complete
repose and quiet, contrasting most
delightfully with the bustle of. the
surrounding district. The interior
is OS little changed as the outside.
A galleiT runs along one side of the
hafl: which, with its old portraits,
armour, cabinets, and enormous fire-
place (above which are the names
Arthur Kav, Beatrix Kay), affords
an admirable study for the artist A
daughter of Arthur and Beatrix Kay
nuuried Lord Lewisham, and thus
brought Woodsome into the family of
its present owners. Curious portraits
of an earlier John Kay and nis wife
(temp. Hen. VIII., the builders of the
house) hang on cranes in the hall,
FO that they can be turned on either
side. On the reverse of John Kav s
portrait are the arms of many York-
shire families, " kin to Woodsome,*'
by Jolitf |S[ay and \m wife ; and on
the reverse of his wife's portrait arc
the " porbiiitures " of the descendants
of an earlier Arthur Kay. Many
edifying verses are inscribed on either
picture, including the ^ VUa uxoris
loneste"-—
*• To live at home In howswyverie
To order wel my famylye
To see they ly ve not Idyllye
To bringe ape children vertaialjB
To relyeve poore foolk willinglye
This Is my care with modestye
To leade my life in honestye.'*
The house is built round a square
courtyard, into which the main
entrance formerly led. There are
many gables, and an external stair-
case of stone affords access to the
upper chambers. Woodsome is alto-
gether an admirable specimen of a
good (though not large) Yorkshire
house of the 16th cent.; and it is
much to be hoped that it is destined
to undergo no changes. At the back
are some pleasant woods, with a space
of green field (Aatw— woods-/<ai») be-
tween them and the house.
(The ch. of FarvHey Tya», seen
from Woodsome, was built by Lord
Dartmouth 1840.)
A good view of Hnddersfield Is
obtained in returning to the town
from Almondbury.
(2) Slack, the ancient Cambo-
dunum, is 4} m. from Hnddersfield*
W. There is a good road passing
Trinity Ch. and leaving Lindley to
the rt. (The pedestrian may walk to
it along LanMOood Edge, whence
good views of the country S. are
commanded. On the hill opposite, S.
are the reservoirs from which Hnd-
dersfield is supplied with water.^
CamibodtMum is mentioned m the.
2ud of the Antonine Itinera as a
station on the road from York to
Manchester (Mancunium); 20 m.
from Tadcaster (Calcaria), and 18 m.
from Manchester. The <* Camounlo-
dounon," inserted by Ptolemy among
the cities of the Brigantes, is perhans
the same place; and it is certainly
4S4
BotUe 87. — Stainland — Etrkheaton.
the *• Campodonum " of Bede (H. B.,
1. ii. c. 14), a " villa repa " of Edwin,
in which Paulinns built a ch
afterwards burnt bj the heathen
Penda of Mercia, together with the
whole "villa." (The altar, "quia
lapideum erat," continues Bede, es-
caped the fire and was preserved in a
monasteiy in Ebnete. After Cam-
bodum was burnt, the Northumbrian
kinffs **made for themselves a villa*'
in tiie region of Loidis.) The site
of CSambodunum, the Boman town in
which there is thus tolerable evidence
that the Saxons established them-
selves, has been variously fixed at
Doncaster, at Ahnondbnry, at Greet-
land (between Slack and Halifax),
and at Slack; but the discoveries
which have been made at this last
place render it tolerably certain that
the station was there. The position
is high, but is screened by a higher
ridge W. and S. A sloping piece of
^und of about 12 acres is divided
into enclosures called the " eald " or
" old " fields, on which, says the local
tradition, ihere formerly stood a
great town. An altar, ded. to For-
tune, by C. Antonius Modestus, cen-
turion of the 6th legion, was found
here about the middle of the last
cent.; and WHitaker (Hist, of Man-
chester) asserts that pieces of thick
glass, urns, Boman bricks and tiles,
&c., were turned up in great quan-
tities among the crowded foundations
of buildings, against which the far-
mers frequently broke their ploughs,
rin the Halifax Museum is one per-
fect tile, bearing the inscription,
"Coh. im. Bre" (Cohors quarta
Brenoomm) and many fragments;
and a sepulchre composed of such
tiles is preserved at Huddersfleld.) A
hypocaust and bath have been found
and uncovered here (the remains are
preserved at Greenhead Park); and
a thorough examination of the " eald
fields," made by the Yorkshire
Archsological Assoc., has been re-
warded by a full confirmation of the
views of Whitaker and Watson on
the subject. On the summit of L^^
Hill, a little N. of Slack, is a circolir
camp, supposed from its shape to \*
Britii^ ; and near it formerly stood a
cross, called Maplin Cross, we exact
site of which is marked by an in-
scribed stone. The Boman road hani
by can still be traced on the un-
broken parts of Lindley Moor. A
wide view is commanded from it.
On the western edge of Holest«ie
Moor, overlooking Slack from the S..
there is a large rocking stone, called,
as usual, *^ Druidical,** but withoat the
slightest reason.
In the village of Stainland, 1| m.
from Slack, is an ancient cross «*
landmark, — a circ. shaft, supporting a
square block, carved with a St. An-
drew's Cross, and hollowed on the
top. Across the moor, about 2 m.
is Cfreeiland, where in 1597 a re-
markable Boman altar was found, and
figured by Camden, who saw it at
Bradley HaU (Sir John SavSUe's).
The tongue of land where it was dis-
covered, at the junction of the Black-
brook with the Calder, may have been
the site of a villa ; but Boman relir^'
of more or less importance have been
found at many places in the neigh-
bourhood.
(3) [The short rly. from Hudders-
field to Kirkburton is a branch of the
London and North-Westem,and open<
up a very pleasant countiy. itere
is a ttaiion at DeigJUon; and then
one at Kirhheatonj where is a ch..
prettily situated, interesting chieflr
as the burial-place of the Beaumonts
of Whitley. There is a mural monu-
ment, of the 17th cent, for Sir
Bichard Beaumont, commondy loiowii
as ** Black Dick ; " and a good Ira**.
with effigies for a Beaumont and his
wife, 'the next station is at Fenojf:
and from it Almondbnry and Wood-
some Hall (see cmte) may be visited.
Fenay HaU (John A. Brooke, £sq.)
is an old tunbered building of the
17th cent., restored. Latin aphor-
isms are painted in old English
Boute Sl.—Hudder^/ield to Manchester.
455
letters round the walls of the dining-
room. The line oontinnes to Kirk-
hurtont where is a fine ch., E. £.
and Perp., restored under the care of
W^. S. Barber, Esq. 8toramHaU(W.
Honfall-Bill, Esq.) is beautifully situ-
ated on one side oi the vaUey. Foot-
paths, leading sometimes through
woods and fields, may be followed to
join the Huddersfield and Sheffield
Kly. at Denby Dale, Stocksmoor, or
Brockholes ntaHont.
(For Holmfirth, and ofiier places
accessible from Huddersfield by the
Manchester and Sheffield Bly. (run-
ning by Penistone), ass Bte. 44.)
HudderiflM to dfanehester.
Leaving Huddersfield, the rly.
passes through a tunnel in the rock,
966 yds. long ; in the middle of which
occurs an open cutting, 80 ft. deep,
to allow of the junction, L, of the
branch riy. from Sheffield to Peni-
stone. The tunnel runs through the
coal-measures, part of which have
been worked, and the workings have
been built up to sustain the rly.
At
Lonqvoood Stat, the rly. is carried
across the valley on a viaduct of 20
arches, 249 yds. long and 70 ft high.
Golear Stat is a scattered village,
with a ch., built 1829— the head of
a populous township, actively en-
ged in the woollen manufacture.
he Oohar Brook viaduct (61 yds.
long) and the OrifMe viaduct of 19
archee, 288 yds. long, and 63 ft high,
are paned before
SlaiihwaUe Stat This village, on
the Oofaie and the Huddersfield Canal,
has a Spa and htUking-hoiue, sup-
plied from a mineral spring abound-
ing in alkaline salts and carbuietted
hydrogen, the latter in such quantify
that it may be collected and Wned.
The spring rises in the bed of the
river, ont is now received in a stone
reservoir. The spa is freauented in
sununer b^ the clothiers of the vici-
nity, and is useful in some diseases of
the skin.
A noble viaduct of 14 arches, 75 ft
high in the centro, and 182 yds. long,
is then traversed, and the rly., wind-
ing much, and encountering many
abrupt curves, reaches
Marsden Stat On the £. side of
Stanedge, in a deep valley on one
of the head-waters of the Colne (5
m. N. of Delph), lies Miunden, a
populous village, whose inhabitants
are chiefly occupied in the woollen
manufactures, though thero is also
a silk-mill and large iron-foundry.
[A veiy delightful moorland walk
may be taken from Iiianden, past
ITissefuien, to a place known as the
is2e of Skye. There is a road part
of the way, and a poorly-denned
path for the rest From the high
Sound on the E. side of the valley
ere is a wide and very fine view-
lone hill-ranges, broken by ** doughs,*'
each with its streamlet; a prafect
seclusion, to which the heather and
bracken lend beautiful and varjring
colour.]
The natural streams not being large
enough in dxy weather to supply the
mills here, large reservoirB have been
foimed on the hills S. of Biarsden,
containing a supply sufficient to work
the mills for 2 or 3 weeks, at the
rate of 8 hours a day. There are
2 such reservoirs of 12 and 40 acres
respectively to supply
The HuddenfiM Omal, which
has aceompanied us by the valley of
tiie Colne all the way frcnn Hudden-
field, and about f of a mile from
Marsden, enters a tunnel which car-
ries it through ihe Stanedge moun-
tain; whence it extends by Staley*
bridge and Moseley to the Ashton and
Oldham CanaL The canal tunnel is
driven through the solid rock (except
about ^ m. of solid masonry at each
end) fix 8^ m., and is in one place
456
BotUe 37.— Saddlewortk
222 yds. below the snrface. The
tunnel is often obstructed bj the
falling in of fragments from the roof,
on which account penons are placed
to warn the boatmen at each end. It
is only wide enough to admit one
boat a time. Barges are admitted
for 3 or 4 hours in successsion, first at
one end and then at the other. Thej
are worked through the tunnel by
labourers, called ^*Uggers" because,
lying on their backs, they push the
boat through with their legs against
the walls, — a hard service, performed
in the dark, and not unattended with
danger from the falling masses. It
requires 2 hours to leg a boat through,
and a man earns from Is. to I«. 6d.
for the task. The Huddersfield Canal,
commenced by James Brindley, but
not finished for 20 years, is the highest
in Britain, being 655 ft. above the
sea-level Its entire length is 19^ m.,
and the cost is believed to have ex-
ceeded 300,0002. It is still constantly
used to convey raw materials and
manufactured goods between Leeds
and Liverpool; a traffic which the
rlys. have not much affected.
Every nook and comer among these
wild, barren, and uninviting hills is
occupied with villages and manu-
factories ; every rill and torrent most
carefully husbanded to turn a wheel;
and in addition, a very great number
of mills are set in motion by steam.
A Tunnel, more than 8 m. long,
running parallel with the canal
tunnel, in phices more than 652 ft.
below the surface, and so straight
that in a clear day you may see
through it— carries the L. and N. W.
Rly. through Stanedge. It emerges
close to the Di^le Stat. ; and a little
beyond is
l^m.8addleu)orthSiaLi. The hilly
district of Saddleworth— stretching
along one side of Stanedge— (itself a
continuation of Blackstone Edge, and
part of the backbone of England)
IS scattered over with no fewer than
77 villages and hamlets, the chief
of these being Upper M311, I>elph,
Dobcross, (areenfield, Boughtown, and
Lydgate. Almost all are occupied
in the woollen manufacture, some-
times in inillB, sometimes hy their
own hearths, — in which latter cas^
the business of a daiiy-Carmer is
often added to that of a manuf actnrer :
and the saoie hands ply the shuttle
and milk the cows.
SaddUworih (12 m. from Hud-
d^isiield) is famed for its fine clothe
and kerseymeres, very little infericH*
to those of the W. of England:
also flannels and shawls. (Measn.
Whitehead and Co. here weave
BunUng jfor flags, destined to •* brave
the battle and the breeze*^ all over
the world. Though a lai^ge part of
the district consists of bign and
sterile land, it has increased mo^
rapidly in population, and is the seat
of prosperous and extemiive noann-
factures. The number of steam-
enffiues is very great, while the
vafieys d the Tame and Medlock,
and every tributary running into
them, axe occupied by numerous:
mills. (Stanedge is the watershed
— the stxeams descending on one side
into Toikshire, on the other into
Lancashire.) The contrast between
the ancient and present oonditian of
this district, which, according to the
tradition^ obtained its name from
having been " sold for a saddle," is
not a little striking. Many of the
weavers keep beagles, and hare-
hunting is a common amusement
'^ the field *^ following the hoonds on
foot.
This wild district, extending iuin
Lancashire, was divided into fonr
'* meres,'* one of which, JPWar-mrr,
was given by the Stapleton familv.
the ancient lords of Saddlewofth. to
Boche Abbey.
The rocks of GreenfiOd, neir
Saddleworth, are veiy pictoxesqae:
and near them are some et4>ne relics
of the piimseval period, known as ihf
** Pct4 wid Pansr
Boute SS.-^Leeds to Wakefield,
457
A short distance from Saddleworth
the r\y, crosses the Yorkshire border,
and soon reaches
StaHeiffbridge, in Cheshire, and, 1 m.
further, Ashton-nnder-Lyne, in Lan-
cashire. (For the route hence to
Makchester Termhtub see Eand-
hoohfor Lanecuhire.)
ROUTE 38.
LEEDS TO WAKEFIELD.
(Great NorOiem BXy,—l^ trains
daily. Time of transit 30 min.)
The rly., leaving Leeds from the
Central Stat, passes through a country
of no great interest till it reaches
Wakefield. Its whole course is through
the coal-measures, which are largdy
worked, especially in the neighbour-
hood of Wakefield. The small woods,
which here and there vaiy the sur-
face very pleasantly, are grown in
order to find supports for the
collieries.
Holbeek Junction Stat., Beegton,
Arddeif Junction, Lofthouse Stat.
[From Ardsler Junction a branch
line runs rt by Gildersome and
Drightlington to Bradford (transit in
40 min.). Immediately rt. of the
Drightlington Stat, is AdwaUon
Moor, where, June 30th, 1643, the
Fairfaxes (who in January had
entered Bradford, and had afterwards
taken Leeds 1^ storm) were entirely
defeated by the Earl of Newcastle.
(He was crated marquis in the same
year.) "The Earl of Newcastle^
says Rush worth, ** had the advantage
in numbers, especially in horse ; but
Fairfaxes foot at first got the ground,
and had almost encompass^ the
EarFs train of artillery, and put his
forces to the rout, when a stand of
pikes gave some check to their suc-
cess, and at the same time a body of
horse fell upon their rear and routed
them; so that, the fortunes of the
field being changed in one instant,
Fairfax's army was utterly defeated,
several pieces of ordnance taken, four
or five hundred men slain, and many
prisoners taken. The village of Ad-
walton, as its names indicates, is on
the line of a Roman vicinal way,
called here *<Tong Street**— the
entire course of which has not been
traced.]
WaheflM^2 stations, 1 in Kirk-
gate, for the Lancashire and Yorkshire,
at. Northern, and N.E. Rly.; and
one in Wesi^ate, for Manchester,
Sheffield, and Lincolnshire, and Gt.
Northern Rlys, (Inns : Boval, opposite
Town Hall: Bull: StraJford Arms;
Gkorge. Pop. of township in 1881,
30,573), well situated on the banks of
the Calder, was, until the rise of
Leeds within the present cent., the
great capital of the clothing trade in
Yorkshire. Henry VII. settled many
foreign weavers of woollen cloth at
Wakefield, where the manufacture
had long been practised ; and Leland,
in the reign of Henry VIII.. describes
it as '<a very auick market town,
meately large, the whole profit of
which standeth by coarse drapery.**
Early in the last cent, the worsted
branch of the manufacture was esta-
blished here ; and in 1752 the inha-
bitants were of note as makers of
worsted yam, camblets, and stuffs.
A large " Piece Hall *' was afterwards
erectMl; but either from want of
enterprise, or from the more fortunate
positions of such towns as Leeds and
Bradford, the woollen trade of Wake-
i field declined as that of the neigh-
458
BotUe BS.— Wakefield.
bouring towns increased. There are
still some woollen factories here ; and
manj mills employed in spinning
hosiery yam for the Nottingham ana
Leicester trade, but the main busi-
ness of the place is now agricultural,
in com, wool, and cattle. O&e result
of the chanee is that Wakefield is a
more agreeable place of residence
than its more bustline, but blacker
and eloomier neighbours. There
are indeed many collieriee about it,
and some iron-factories haVe risen on
its outskirts; but no such cloud of
smoke hangs over the town as that
which hides the sunlight from Leeds.
The Calder is navigable hence to
Salter Hebble, where it is joined by
canals extending to the Mersey.
Much coal is exported from the dis-
trict by this means. The town is
but poorly built in comparison with
its vigorous manufacturing neigh-
bours, out is an interesting specimen
of an old English town, witn many
large brick houses, and a few of
earlier date — belonging to the days
of "Merry Wakefield, as it was
fomierly called ; though, says Fuller,
''what peculiar cause of mirth this
town hath above others, I do not
know, and dare not too curiously
inquire, lest I turn their mirth among
themselves into anger against me.
Sure it is seated in a fruitful soil and
cheap countty ; and where good cheer
and company are the premisses, mir^
(in common coasequence) will be the
conclusion." Oeorge-a Green, the jolly
Finder" ^keeper of the town pound
or " pinfold "), who lived " in Wake-
field all on a green," — and who, after
fighting "Bobin Hood, Scarlet, and
John,'* for a long summer's day (see
pott — Stanley HfOT), took service with
the "gentle thief —introduced him,
after the fight, to the " good cheer **
of Wakefiefi :—
** • I ba^e both liread and beef/ uid thePlnder,
* And good Ale of the beat'
* And that ia meatgood enough/ said Bobin
Hood,
• Fi>r Boch unbidden guests.* »•
Excellent cheer is still to be com-
manded here; thoogh unfovtanatel;!
not at such rates as in the days <>f
Leland, who says that "a right
honest man shal fare wel in Wake-
field for 2 pens a meale.^ — It has
been suggee^ that one cause of
"merriment** at Wakefield -was af-
forded by the "mysteries*^ or
"miracle plays,'* which were per-
formed here, at stated seasons^ as at
Coventry and Chester. The so-odled
"Towneley Mysteries" were tho^
pkyed at Wakefield, and ther con-
tain one or two local allusions. '
The famous BaUU of Wakefidd.
fought Dec. 31, 1460, will best be
noticed after the town itself has been
described. The chief places of in-
terest are— the Parish Ch., I^e Oxn
Exchange, and the Ghan^ Ch^id.
on the bridge over the Calder.
The *Fartth Chureh (ML Saints),
the lofty spire of which, rising
grandly over the surrounding build-
ings, is the great feature of the town,
was consecrated by Archly. William
de Melton in 1329. The tower and
spire are of 15th centv. date. Great
part of the walls of the ch. was
rebuilt between 1724 and 1800 ; be-
tween 1860 and 1874 the chnirh
tower and spire and the porch wert
most carefully restored, under the
direction of Sir G. G. Scott^ at a cost
of 23,000^, and a reredos added. The
height of tower and spire is 237 ft.
The Perp. interior of the ch. is fine,
with wide chancel and aisles. New
windows have been inserted, and
those E. and W. have been filled with
stained glass by Hardman, Some
tall screen work, temp. (Tharies I..
between the nave and chancel de-
serves attention. The organ and case,
of the same character, was a gift
from the great Earl of Strafford. The
ch.-yd. is paved with tombstones.
The Com Sxehange, bnlH in 1837,
and enlarged in 1862, is the lawest
in Engknd, except that in Ati
Bottte 39.~Wdkelield: Town HaU, Chantry.
469
Lane, London. It is worth a visit on
market-days, when a considerable
amoant of business is transacted,
Wakefield is the great com market
for all this part of Yorkshire, but its
trade has greatly declined, owing to
the railways, by means of which Man'
Chester has taken from Wakefield
most of its former Lancashire trade.
In the Kirkqate^ which rons down to
the Galder, is a picturesque timber-
framed house loudly known as the
" Six Ckimblies."
The Town HaU in Wood St. is a
handsome edifice, in the French
Grothic style, erected 1880 at a cost
of 70,0001., Calleott, archt It is
surmounted by a clock tower 190 ft.
The *Chantryy on the bridge over
the Calder, S. of the town, may be
regarded as a direct memorial of
the battle of Wakefield, and (except
that on the bridge at Botherham)
is the onl^ example of the kind
now remaming in England. The
bridge itself dates from the reign of
Edw. ni.: and the Chantnr, origin-
ally built by Sir Bobert Knolles in
the same reign, was refounded by
Edw. rV. in order that prayer might
constantly be made in it for the soul
of his father, Richard Duke of York,
and for those of the followers of the
Vnnie Kose who fell in the battle.
The little chapel is 80 ft. long and
24 wide, and, atter having long served
as a corn-factor's counting-house and
1 amber-room, was restored in 1847, at
8 cost of nearly SOOOt, and service is
occasionally perfonned in it. The
windows are filled with good Perp.
tracery; and the W. front (facing
the bridge) is divided by buttresses
into recessed compartments, arched.
Above is an entablature, between
which and the battlements are five
sculptured figures. The great flood
of Uie 16th Nov. 1866 rose nearly to
this chapel, and laid all the lower
parts of Wakefield under water.
In the autumn of 1460 the Duke
of York, who hud returned from
Ireland after the Yorkist victory
(Jidy 10) at Northampton, arrived
in London, and, "after long argu-
ment," agreed to a compromise with
the party of King Henry; arrang-
ing that HeniT should retain the
crown for his life, but that the Duke
should be recognised as heir-apparent.
Queen Margaret, however, who was
IJien in the North, would not sur-
render her son's rights without a
further struggle. The Earl of North-
umberland, and the Lords Clifford,
Dacres, and Neville, at once armed
in her cause; and the Dukes of
Exeter and Somerset, and the Earls
of Devon and Wiltshire joined her,
with their followers, at York. The
Duke of York, with a body of about
5000 men (the exact numbers are
uncertain, but it is clear that they were
Tery much below those of the queen s
army, said to have been 18,000), set
out from London to oppose Queen
Margaret, and reached Sandal Castle,
2 m. from the centre of Wakefield
(on the hill S. of the bridge), on
Christmas Eve. Here he was ad-
vised to wait until the Earl of March
(afterwards Edw. IV.) could join
him; but he insisted on accepting
the challenge of his enemies (who
were at Wakefield), and descended
(Dec. 80— so Fabyan and the Rot.
Pari. 1 Edw. IV.— others make it the
81st Dec.) upon Wakefield Green, As
the level ground on the S. bank of
the Calderwas called. (The ** Pinder."
it will be remembered, "dwelt on
Wakefield Green.") « He was suf-
fered to pass forward," says Hall,
*< towards uie mam battle ; but when
he was in the plain ground between
his castle and the town of Wakefield,
he was environed on every side, like
a fish in a net, or a deer in a buck-
stall ; so that he, manfully fighting,
was within half an hour slain and
dead, and his whole army discom-
fited; and with him died, of his
trusty friends, his two bastard uncles.
Sir John and Sir Hugh Mortimers,
Sir Davy Halle, his chief councillor.
460
BaiUeSS.— Wakefield: The BcUUe.
Sir Hogh Hastings. Sir Thomas
Nevel, William and Thomas Aparre,
hoth brethren, and two thousand and
eight hundred others, whereof many
were young gentlemen and heirs of
great parentage in the S. part, whose
lineages revenged their deaths within
4 months next and immediately en-
suing." Whether the well-known
scene of the Duke of York's death, in
the * Third Part of Henry Vi; (act i.
sc. 4), is historically true, is uncertain.
It is founded on a passage in Holin-
shed, who says, ** Some write, that the
duke was taken alive, and by derision
made to stand on a molehiU .... on
whose head they put a garland made
of bullrushes instead of a crown," and
then, after mocking him, struck off his
head. It is more probable that his
body was found on tne field, and that
it was then nmtilated — the head being
sent to York, where it was set over
Micklegate Bar. Queen Margaret's
order was —
** Off with his he«d« and »t it on York gates;
So York may overlook the town of York."
The details of another famous epi-
sode in this battle — ^the murder of the
voung Earl of Rutland, son of the
buke of York, by the " butcher Clif-
ford" CHen. Vl.,' Part HI., act i.
scene 3) — ^are not less doubtful. It is
uncertain whether Butland fell by
the hand of Clifford, of whom Leland
only says that **for slaughter of
men at Wakefield he was called
the boucher ; " and it is tolerably
certain that BuUand, when he fell,
was far more than the "maidenlike
person of 12 years " as Hall describes
him: he was at least 17 or 18,
capable therefore of having taken
part in the battle. The bodies of the
Duke of York and of the young Earl
of Rutland were interred first at
Pontefract and afterwards at Fother-
ingay, where the Duke's head was
afterwards conveyed.
A spot close to Wakefield Bridge,
on the rt. bank of the Calder, is
pointed out as that ^here the Duke
of York was killed ; and was at ooe
time enclosed by a wall. (It is on
the rt side of the old road, leading
from Wakefield to Barasley, very
near Sandal Castle.) The place is
marked by two willows, still called
the ''Duke of Yorl^s trees."* The
young Earl of Rutland is said to
have been killed in the town, where,
says Leland, he would have entered
*<a poor woman's house for snooonr:
and she, for fear, shut the door, and
straight the Earl was killed."* Sandal
Ch, is seen rt. ; and on a hill crowned
with trees nearer the river are some
scanty remains of Sandal CcuOe-^
little more than rubbish moonds, but
enough to show that the central
mound was crowned by a shell keep,
and tiiat there were external ditches
and ramparts. The position com-
mands the Calder valley and the sur-
rounding country. John, the last
Earl, who died in 1347, lodged within
its walls his mistress Maud de Ner-
ford, who had been the wife of
Thomas of Lancaster. On his death
without issue it came to the Crown ;
and, with the manor of Wi^efield.
had descended to the Duke of York
from his unde, Edward Earl of But-
land. In the reign of Edw. HL it
was assigned as a residence to John
Baliol, the ex-King of Scotland. It
was dismantled by OTder of the Parlia-
ment in 1645. Except for the view
over the battle-field the site of the
castle is not worth exploring; and
Sandal Ch. (Perp.) is of little in-
terest. There is a chantry, bat with-
out monuments, for the Watertons of
Walton.
In digging the foundations for
Portobello House, N.W. of the
meadow-land between Sandid and
Wakefield, human bones, spun,
broken swords, and other relics, were
discovered, showing that the battle
extended in that direction.
At the foot of the bridge, on the L
bank of the Calder, are thehoge Sokt
MiUSi whither, until the year 1853. a
verjr ancient feudal law compelled
liotUe SS.— Wakefield: The Orammr School 461
Ricftard Fleming^ Bishop of Lincoln
0420-1431), the founder of Lincoln
College, Oxford.
N. of the town (rt. of the Leeds
Blj.) is the West-Biding Prison, an
enormous building, constructed on
the radiating principle, so that from
the governor s desk in the centre the
various wards are commanded. It con
contain 2000 prisoners; but. a large
nmnber of cells are rented by Oovern-
ment, and most of the Scotch convicts
are sent here for some portion of
their imprisonment.
I/owe HiU, commanding very ex-
tensive views, is veiy near Wake-
field, S.W. There are a mound and
earthworks, enclosing about 8 acres,
and the site may have been that of
a Saxon stronghold.
the inhabitants of Wakefield and five
adjoining townships to send all their
com to be ground. This compulsory
** multure " gave the miller l-16th of
the com, and l-32nd part of all the
inalt ground, in payment ; in return for
which the owner was obliged to main-
tain means for grinding (within 24
hours) all the com of the district
which might be brought to hun.
These compulsory rights were, how-
ever, purchased oy the inhabitants in
the above year for 18,000L, and were
then aboliwed by Act of Parliament.
On the opposite side of the river are
large basins and a wharf, round which
are grouped man^ eom ma^ines^
huge piles of buildmg filled with sun-
Slies of grains from Lincolnshire, the
forth and East Bidings, &c„ destined
to feed the clothing dutrict.
On the hill above St. John s Ch.
in Wakefield is the Lunatic Asylum,
a vast building with a very good
modem ch., large grounds and
gardens, and the Orammar School,
rebuilt in 1829. It was founded by
Queen Elizabeth; and many dis-
tinguished natives of Wakefield have
been educated here. Among them
are John Potter, Arthbp. of Canter-
bury and author of the once well-
known < Antiquities of Greece,' — ^bom
here in 1674, died 1747 ; John Bad-
cUfe, bom 1650, founder of the
Badcliffe Library and Observatory at
Oxford (partly educated at Northal-
lerton, see Bte. 16) ; Richard Bentiey
the famous critic, bom at Oulton, be-
tween Leeds and Wakefield, in 1661,
died 1742; and Joseph Bingham,
author of the * Origines Ecdesiasticie,*
bom here in 1658. Other " illustra-
tions "^ of Wakefield are Dr. Robert-
son. Dean of Durham, one of the
^< notable learned men" associated
with Chranmer about the order of
Communion (1548); Hugh Cressy,
author of the 'Church History of
Brittany,' bom 1605; Dr. Burton,
author of the * Monasticon Eboracense,'
Yx>m here 1697, died 1771 ; and
The most interesting excursion to
be made from Wakefield is to Nostel
Priory, (Walton Hall may be seen
on the way. Walton is alx>ut 3 m.
S. of Wakefield, and Nostel 4 m. from
Walton.)
The Sandal and Walton Station,
on the Midland Bly., is 1 m. from
Walton Hall.
[The viUage of Heath, about 2 m.
S. of the town, is built round a plea-
sant common commanding wide
views. Heath Old HaU is a portion
of a good Elizabethan house, with
some fine elms round it The arms
of Queen Elizabeth and the shield of
Kaye (chu. 1584) are over the en-
trance. On a chimney-piece in the
house are the amis of Witham
Witham, who died in 1508, bewitched,
as it was decided, by a certain Mary
Paunall, who was executed at York
accordingly. The ghost of a Lady
Bolles, a " baronettess,' so created by
Charles I., and a solitary instance of
such a creation, haunts the galleries.
She died in 1662, and has a monu-
ment in Ledsham Church.]
Walton HaU, long the residence of
the late Charles Waierton, is a place
462
Soule S8.—WaUon Ball.
well-known to every natnraliiBt in the
world. But after the death of Mr.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton lost
its special character as a preserve, in
which a gun was never fired, and
the Musenm was removed to Ushaw
College.
Walton Hall, although still the
property of Edmnnd Waterton, Esq.,
IS now the residence of Edward Hail-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton Hall, near Bradford, his
library and art collections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The "preserves" here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in i^ia place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall in 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
* Wanderings in S. America,' was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Reforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1813, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to '* offer a hearty welcome to
every bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where fchey would
feel themselves secure from aU
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the balance of
nature." Accordingly, "mead, hill,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities." The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and suirounded bv simple
meadow-land, drooping willows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whole
domain is enclosed by a high wall,
completed in 1826. This wall cost
9000Z. — a sum which Mr. Watextoa
said he saved in wine, which, he
never drank. No gun might be
fired within the park. Mr. Waterton,
in his own words, " waged war with
none but poachers and Protestants.*^
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants were
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in the dusk could not be
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place," says a former vi&itor,
"literally teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at any
season of the year, and each spot
towards which tne glass is directed is
as busy as a disturbed anthilL On
the lake may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, mallards (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evening for the Lincolnshire
fens, where mey feed during the
night), teal, wigeons, pochards^
golden-eyes, tuft^ ducks, geese,
and shovdleis. Waterhens and
coots run about under the yery win-
dows of the house." Herons swanned
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owls
were carefully provided for in the
gateway-tower and in hollow \reesi
and the "shyest birds were so well
aware of their security that they cared
no more for spectators than the Lon^
don sparrows for passengers.*' In
the " grotto," a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of fine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a cross, Waterton used
to watch his birds at all hours
Whenever the late owner appeared
there was "a general rush m his
direction, and great was the flapping
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on aU sides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
SotUe 88.— WatUm BaH^NoaeU Priory. 463
The house, a handsome and com-
. fortahle modem mansion (with the
Woterton motto over the entrance—
/'Better kinde fremde than fremde
kyne^s Better a kind stranger than
estranged kin), stands on a rockj
island in the middle of the lake, and
is approached bj an iron bridge. Mr.
Charles Waterton's grandfather un-
happily removed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endured a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
sides. Onlj one small fragment re-
mains— ^the original gatmoay^ the
oaken door of which still holds a
bullet from the pistol fired in spite
(so runs the story) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 8 days' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
mancr-house. This biulet has an
inscription round it, reccxrding its
history. Near it is a roueh pillar
of stone perforated with hdes, each
designed as a nestling-place for some
feal£ered tenant, and proportioned to
its sixe ; while amonff the ivy an owl
was lodged in the shade. Over the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his very interesting collec-
tion m natural history, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
preservation, beauty of plumage and
skin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
iu), every other in this country. AU
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was bom here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end of the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The nlace is
marked by a cross erected in nis life-
time ; and at the base are the words
'* Onde pro anim& Caroli Waterton,
cuius fessa juxta banc crocem se-
peUuntur ossa." Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand- 1
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton HalL The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archeology, and contains
by far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to lork-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on dtemonology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Armour and other
antiquities are arranged in the hall;
a large blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous. In
the drawing and music rooms is much
fine Venetian glass, including a large
drinking goblet, with a silver bell
attached to the end of the footstalk
— which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signal
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.) Some 16th cent. German
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; besides
much Bafaelle ware, and Gres de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Lace, of all ages and coun-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes " and barrows ;
and many objects of medieval art.
Noetd Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and mcturesque count^, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally shdwn, and a special in-
&oduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
tures— some of considerable import-
ance.
A Priory of Augustinian canons
(the first house of tl^t order founded
in England) was settled here in the
462
ItotUe S8.— Walton Rati.
well-khowii to every natmalist in the
world. But after the death of Mx.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton lost
its special character as a preserve, in
which a gun was never fired, and
the Museum was removed to Ushaw
College.
Walton Hall, although stUl the
property of Edmund Waterton, Esq.,
IS now the residence of Edward Hail-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton Hall, near Bradford, his
library and art coUections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The "preserves" here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in Uiis place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall in 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
* Wanderings in S. America,' was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Reforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1813, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to " offer a hearty welcome to
everv bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where they would
feel themselves secure n-om aU
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the balance of
nature.^ Accordingly, "mead, hill,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities.*' The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and surrounded by simple
meadow-land, drooping wUlows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whole
domain is enclosed by a high wall,
completed in 1826. This wall cost
9000L — a sum which Mr. Waterton
said he saved in wine, which he
never drank. No gun might be
fired within the park. Mr. Waterton.
in his own words, " waged war with
none but poachers and Protestants.*'
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants were
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in uxe dusk could not be
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place,'' says a former viator,
"literally teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at any
season of the year, and each spot
towards which the glass is directed is
as busy as a disturbed anthill. On
the lake may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, mallards (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evening for the Lincolnshire
fens, where Uiey feed daring the
night), teal, wigeons, pochards,
golden-eyes, tuft^ ducks, geese,
and shovellers. Waterhens and
coots run about under the very win-
dows of the house." Herons swanned
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owls
were carefully provided for ia the
gateway-tower and in hollow trees ;
and the "shyest birds were so well
aware of their security that they cared
no more for spectators than the Lioo^
don sparrows for passengers.^ In
the " grotto," a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of fine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a cross, Waterton used
to watch his birds at all houi^
Whenever the late owner appeared
there was "a general rush in his
direction, and great was the flapping
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on all sides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
SotUe 88.— WaUon Ball^Nostett Priory. 463
The hotue, a handsome and com-
. fortable modem mansioii (with the
Waterton motto over the entrance —
/'Better kinde fremde than fremde
kyne"=Better a kind stranger than
estranged kin), stands on a rocky
island m the middle of the hike, and
is approached bj an iron bridge. Mr.
Charles Waterton*8 grandfather un-
happily remoyed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endured a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
aides. Onlj one small fragment re-
mains— ^the original gateway^ the
oaken door of which still holds a
bullet from the pistol fired in spite
(80 runs the stoi^) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 3 dajs' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
manor-house. This biulet has an
inscription round it, recording its
histoiy. Near it is a roneh pillar
of stone perforated with hmes, each
designed as a nestling-place for some
feathered tenant, and proportioned to
its size ; while among the ivy an owl
was lodged in the wade. Oyer the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his veiy interesting collec-
tion (H natural history, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
presenration, beauty of plumage and
akin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
up, eyery other in this country. All
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was bom here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end of the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The place is
marked by a cross erected in nis life-
time ; and at the base are the words
'' Orate pro animft Caroli Waterton,
CUIUS fessa juxta banc crocem se-
pdiuntur ossa.'* Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand-
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton Hall. The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archeology, and contains
by far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to York-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on demouology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Armour and other
antiquities are arranged in the hall ;
a large blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous. In
the drawing and music rooms is much
fine Venetian glass, including a large
drinking goblet, with a si^er bell
attached to the end of the footstalk
— which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signid
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.) borne 16th cent. German
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; besides
much Bafaelle ware, and Gies de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Laee, of all ages and coun-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes " and barrows ;
and many objects of medieval art.
Nostd Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and picturesque country, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally shdwn, and a special in-
troduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
tures— some of considerable import-
ance.
A Prioiy of Augustinian canons
(the first house of iSai order founded
in England) was settled here in the
462
Itouie SS.—WaUon Hall.
well-khown to every natondist in the
world. But after the death of Mr.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton lost
its special character as a preserve, in
which a gun was never fired, and
the Museum was removed to Ushaw
Ck)]lege.
Walton Hall, although stUl the
property of Edmund Waterton, Esq.,
IS now the residence of Edward Hail-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton Hall, near Bradford, his
library and art collections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The ''preserves'* here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in this place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall in 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
'Wanderinfi;s in S. America,' was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Beforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1813, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to '' offer a hearty welcome to
every bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where they would
feel themselves secure uom all
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the balance of
nature." Accordingly, ''mead, hill,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities." The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and sunxmnded by simple
meadow-land, drooping willows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whole
domain is enclosed by a high wall,
completed in 1826. This wall cost
9000Z.— a sum which Mr. Waterton
said he saved in wine, which he
never drank. No gun might be
fired within the park. Mr. Waterton,
in his own words, " waged war with
none but poachers and Protestants."
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants were
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in the dusk could not be
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place," says a former visitor,
"literauy teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at any
season of the year, ana each spot
towards which tne glass is directed is
as busv as a disturbed anthilL On
the lake may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, mallards (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evening for ihe Lincolnshire
fens, where they feed dnrins; the
ni^ht), teal, wigeons, pochards,
golden-eyes, tuftra ducks, geese,
and shovellers. Waterhens and
coots run about under the very win-
dows of the house." Herons swarmed
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owls
were carefully provided for in the
gateway-tower and in hollow trees :
and the "shyest birds were so well
aware of their security that they cared
no more for spectators than the Loih
don sparrows for passengers.'* In
the " grotto," a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of^fine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a cross, Waterton used
to watch his birds at all hoars
Whenever the late owner appeared
there was "a general rush m his
direction, and great was the flapping
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on all aides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
Route 88.— Walton Bdttr-'NosteU Priory. 463
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton HaJL The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archieology, and contains
bj far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to lork-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on dffimonology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Armour and other
antiquities are arranKed in the hall ;
a large blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous. In
the drawing and music rooms is much
The house, a handsome and com-
. fortable modem mansion (with the
Waterton motto over the entrance —
/'Better kinde fremde than fremde
kyne**=: Better a kind stranger than
estranged kin), stands on a rocky
island m the middle of the lake, and
is approached by an iron bridge. Mr.
CJharlee Waterton's grandfwier un-
happily removed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endured a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
sides. Only one small fragment re-
mains— ^the original gatewayt the
oaken door of which still holds a
bullet from the pistd fired in spite
(so runs the story) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 3 days' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
manor-house. This bmlet has an
inscription round it, recording its
histoiy. Near it is a roueh pillar
of stone perforated with holes, each
designed as a nestling-place for some
feathered tenant, and proportioned to
its sia&e ; while among the ivy an owl
was lodged in the shade. Over the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his veiy interesting collec-
tion of natural histoiy, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
preservation, beauty of plumage and
skin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
up, every other in this country. All
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was born here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end of the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The place is
marked by a cross erected in his life-
time ; and at the base are the words
'* Orate pro animft Garoli Waterton,
cuius fessa juxta banc crucem se-
peliuntnr ossa.'^ Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand-
fine Venetian glass, including a large
drinking goblet, with a silver bell
attached to the end of the footstalk
— which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signal
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.) Some 16th cent. Oerman
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; oesides
much Bafaelle ware, and Ores de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Laee, of all ages and conn-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes " and barrows ;
and many objects of medinval art
Noetel Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and picturesque count^ry, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally shdwn, and a special in-
troduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
tures— some of considerable import-
ance.
A Priory of Augustinian canons
(the first house of that order founded
in England) was settled here in the
462
Itouie S8.— Walton HaU.
well-known to every naturalist in the
world. But after the death of Mr.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton loet
its special character as a preserve, in
which a gun was never fired, and
the Museum was removed to Ushaw
CJollege.
Walton Hall, although still the
property of Edmund Waterton, Esq.,
IS now the residence of Edward Hau-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton Hall, near Bradford, his
library and art collections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The ** preserves^ here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in this place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall in 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
* Wanderings in S. America,* was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Reforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1813, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to " offer a hearty welcome to
everv bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where they would
feel themselves secure u-om all
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the balance of
nature." Accordingly, "mead, hill,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities.'* The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and surrounded by simple
meadow-land, drooping willows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whde
domain is enclosed by a high wall,
completed in 1826. This wall cost
900W.— * sum which Mr. Waterton
said he saved in wine, which he
never drank. No gun might be
fired within the nark. Mr. Waterton,
in his own words, " waged war with
none but poachers and Protestants."*
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants were
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in uie dusk could not be
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place," says a former visitor,
"literally teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at anv
season of the year, and each spot
towards which the glass is directed is
as busy as a disturbed anthilL On
the laie may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, malluds (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evenine for the Lincolnshire
fens, where they feed during the
night), teal, wigeons, pochards,
golden-eyes, tuft^ ducks, geese^
and shovellerB. Waterhens and
coots run about under the very win-
dows of the house." Herons swarmed
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owls
were carefully provided for in the
gateway-tower and in hollow trees:
and the "shyest birds were so well
aware of their security that they cared
no more for spectators than the Loo-
don sparrows for passengers." In
the " grotto," a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of fine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a cross, Waterton osed
to watch his birds at all houn
Whenever the late owner appeared
there was "a general rush in his
direction, and great was the flapping
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on all sides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
Itouie 88.— WcMon Sall^Nogtell Priory. 463
The lioaae, a handsome and com-
fortable modem mansion (with the
Waterton motto over the entrance —
** Better kinde fremde than fremde
kjne"=B6tter a kind stranger than
estranged kin), stands on a rocky
island in the middle of the lake, and
is approached bj an iron bridge. Mr.
Charles Waterton's grandfather nn-
happilj removed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endnred a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
sidis. Onlj one small fragment re-
mains— ^the original gateway, the
oaken door of which still holds a
bullet from the pistol fired in spite
(so runs the story) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 3 days' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
manor-house. This bmlet has an
inscription round it, recording its
histoiy. Near it is a roueh pillar
of stone perforated with h(9es, each
designed as a nestling-place for some
feathered tenant, and proportioned to
its size ; while amone the ivy an owl
was lodged in ^e shade. Over the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his very interesting collec-
tion of natural histoiy, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
preservation, beauty of plumage and
skin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
up, every other in this country. AU
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was born here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end of the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The place is
marked by a cross erected in his life-
time ; and at the base are the words
'* Orate pro animft Caroli Waterton,
cuius fessa juxta banc crucem se-
peliuntur ossa.** Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand-
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton HalL The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archeology, and contains
by far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to York-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on dtemonology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Armour and other
antiquities are arranged in the hall ;
a large blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous. In
the drawing and music rooms is much
fine Venetian glass, including a large
drinking goblet, with a silver bell
attached to the end of the footstdk
— ^which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signal
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.) Some 16th cent. German
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; besides
much Bafaelle ware, and Gres de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Xoee, of all ages and coun-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes " and barrows ;
and many objects of medinval art
Nostel Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and picturesque country, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally sh6wn, and a special in-
troduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
ttves — some of considerable import-
ance.
A Prioiy of Augustinian canons
(the first house of that order founded
in England) was settled here in the
462
Itouie SS.— Walton Halt.
well-khown to every natimlist in the
world. But after the death of Mr.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton lost
its special character as a preserve, in
which a gun was never fired, and
the Museum was removed to Ushaw
College.
Walton Hall, although stUl the
property of Edmund Waterton, Esq.,
is now the residence of Edward Hail-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton Hall, near Bradford, his
library and art collections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The "preserves" here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in this place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall in 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
* Wanderings in S. America,* was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Beforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1813, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to *' offer a hearty welcome to
every bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where they would
feel themselves secure from aU
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the balance of
nature.^ Accordingly, '*mead, hill,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and " trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities.'* The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and surrounded by simple
meadow-land, drooping wUlows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whole
domain is enclosed by a high wall,
completed in 1826. This wall cost
90002.— a sum which Mr. Waterton
said he saved in wine, which he
never drank. No gun might be
fired within the park. Mr. Waterton.
in his own words, " waged war witii
none but poachers and Protestants.*'
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants were
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in the dusk could not be
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place," says a former viator,
"literauy teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at any
season of the year, and each spot
towards which the glass is directed is
as busy as a disturbed anthUL On
the lake may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, malluds (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evening for ihe Lincolnahire
fens, where Uiey feed daring the
night), teal, wigeons, pochards,
golden-eyes, tuft^ ducks, geese^
and shovellers. Waterhens and
coots run about under the very win-
dows of the house.'* Herons swarmed
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owls
were carefully provided for in the
gateway-tower and in hollow trees;
and the "shyest birds were so wdl
aware of their security that they cared
no more for spectators than tiie Lion-
don sparrows for passengers.'* In
the *' grotto,^* a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of^fiine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a cross, Waterton used
to watch his birds at all hours
Whenever the late owner appeared
there was "a general rush m bis
direction, and great was the flapj^ing
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on all sides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
BaiUe 88.— Walton Sdll^Nostett Priory. 46S
The house, a handsome and com-
. fortable modem mansion (with the
Waterton motto over the entrance —
."Better kinde fremde than fremde
kyne^sBetter a kind stranger than
estnuiged kin), stands on a rocky
island in the middle of the lake, and
is approached by an iron bridge. Mr.
Charles Waterton's grandfather un-
happily removed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endured a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
sides. Only one small fragment re-
mains— ^the oiiginal gateway, the
oaken door of which still holds a
bullet from the pistol fired in spite
(so runs the story) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 3 days' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
manor-house. This bmlet has an
inscription round it, recording its
history. Near it is a roueh pillar
of st<me perforated with hmes, each
designed as a nestlinff-place for some
feathered tenant, and proportioned to
its sixe ; while amone the ivy an owl
was lodged in the shade. Over the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his very interesting collec-
tion m natural histoiy, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
preservation, beauty of plumage and
skin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
up, every other in this country. AU
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was bom here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end oi the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The place is
marked by a cross erected in his life-
time *, and at the base are the words
''* Onie pro anim& Caroli Waterton,
cuius fessa juxta banc cracem se-
peliuntur ossa." Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand-
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton Hall. The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archeology, and contains
by far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to York-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on demouology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Annour and other
antiquities are arranged in the hall ;
a large blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous. In
the drawing and music rooms is much
fine Venetian glass, including a larse
drinking goblet, with a silver bell
attached to the end of the footstalk
— which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signal
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.) Some 16th cent. German
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; besides
much Bafaelle ware, and Gres de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Lace, of all ages and coun-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes '* and barrows ;
and many objects of mediaeval art.
Nostel Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and picturesque countiy, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally shdwn, and a special in-
troduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
ttu-es — some of considerable import-
ance.
A Priory of Augustinian canons
(the first house of that order founded
in England) was settled here in the
462
ItotUe S8.—WaUon Ball.
well-known to eveiy natondiBt in the
world. But after the death of Mx.
C. Waterton, in 1865, Walton lost
its special character as a preserve, in
whidi a gun was never fired, and
the Museum was removed to Ushaw
College.
Walton Hall, although still the
property of Edmund Waterton, Esq.,
IS now the residence of Edward Hail-
stone, Esq., who has removed hither,
from Horton HaU, near Bradford, his
library and art collections. Under
his care the place has acquired other
attractions. The "preserves" here
were so remarkable that some notice of
them must be inserted in this place.
Mr. Charles Waterton (bom in 1782,
succeeded to Walton Hall m 1806),
author of the amusing and instructive
* Wanderings in S. America,' was
the descendant and representative of
a family established at Walton for
some centuries, having emigrated
there from Waterton in Axeholm,
Lincolnshire. It was one of the many
Yorkshire houses which did not
accept the changes of the Beforma-
tion. On his return from Guiana
in 1818, Mr. Waterton determined so
to arrange his park and estate at Wal-
ton as to " offer a hearty welcome to
everv bird and beast that chose to
avail itself of his hospitality, and by
affording them abundant food and
a quiet retreat to induce them to
frequent a spot where they would
feel themselves secure uom all
enemies save those which have been
appointed to preserve the bahmce of
nature.'* Accordingly, "mead, hiB,
and dale were laid out to suit the
idiosyncrasies of various species;
and trees of different kinds were
planted in clumps, rows, or in solitary
state, to attract the birds that love
such localities.'' The park, entered
by a lodge gate a little beyond the
village of Walton, contains about 260
acres of gently undulating ground
rising from the centre, which is oc-
cupied by a large lake, studded with
islands, and sunounded by aiinple
meadow-land, drooping wiBows, or
thick woods. The house stands on
an island in this lake ; and the whole
domain is enclosed by & high wall
completed in 1826. This waB cost
90002. — a sum which Mr. Waterton
said he saved in wine, which he
never drank. No gun might foe
fired within the park. Mr. Waterton.
in his own words, " waged war with
none but poachers and Protestants.'
To defeat the poachers many hun-
dred wooden figures of pheasants weir
disposed among the branches of the
trees, and in the dusk could not he
distinguished from real birds. The
whole place," says a former visitor,
"literauy teems with life — sweep
the meadows, the trees, and the
waters with the telescope, at anj
season of the year, and each spot
towards which the glass is directed is
as busy as a disturbed anthilL On
the lake may be seen Egyptian and
Canadian geese, malluds (which
come in great flocks, and take wing
in the evening for tiie Lincolnshire
fens, where tney feed daring the
night), teal, wigeons, pochards,
golden-eyes, tuftra ducks* geese,
and shovdlers. Waterhens and
coots run about under the very win-
dows of the house." Herons swarmed
in the tree-tops round the lake ; owk
were carefully provided for in the
gateway-tower and in hoUow trees:
and the "shyest birds were so well
aware of their security that tiiey cared
no more for spectators than ihe Loih
don sparrows for passengers.** Is
the " grotto," a most quiet and plea-
sant retreat, within a grove of fine
spruce firs, and a garden-house sur-
mounted by a oross, Waterton used
to watch his birds at aB houxs
Whenever the late owner i^peared
there was "a general rush in his
direction, and great was the flapping
of wings and welcome of eager voices
Birds crowded round him on all sides
to snatch the expected morsel from
his hand."
Route 88.— WalUm Sall^Nostell Priory. 463
The house, a huidfloiiie and com-
. fortable modem manBlon (with the
Wsteiton motto over the entrance —
/'Better Sonde fremde than fremde
kyne^s: Better a kind stranger than
estranged kin), stands on a rocky
island m the middle of the lake, and
is approached bj an iron bridge. Mr.
Charlee Waterton's grandfather un-
happily removed the old castle with
its drawbridge, which had endured a
siege from Cromwell and his Iron-
sides. Only one small fragment re-
niains — ^the original gaJteway, the
oaken door of which still holds a
ballet from the pistol fired in spite
(so runs the stor^ ) by Cromwell as
he rode off after 3 days' vain be-
leaguering and battering of the old
manor-house. This bmlet has an
inscription round it, recording its
history. Near it is a rough pillar
of stone perforated with holes, each
designed as a nestling-place for some
feathered tenant, and proportioned to
its size ; while amonff the ivy an owl
was lodged in the shade. Over the
entrance-tower is a lofty crucifix.
Within the house Mr. Waterton
arranged his very interesting collec-
tion of natural history, which it is no
exaggeration to say excelled in
preservation, beauty of plumage and
skin, and in the perfectly natural
attitude in which the animals are set
up, every other in this country. All
this fine collection has been removed
to Ushaw College, near Durham.
Mr. Charles Waterton, the natu-
ralist, was bom here in June, 1782,
and died here May, 26, 1865. He is
buried in a vault built by himself
near the end of the lake, between
two large oak-trees, in a solitude
as complete as if in the depths of
S. American woods. The place is
marked by a cross erected in his life-
time ; and at the base are the words
'' Orate pro anim& Caroli Waterton,
cuius fessa juxta banc cracem se-
pelinntur ossa." Under a great elm
near the bridge which crosses the
lake reposes another Waterton, grand-
father of the naturalist, who suffered
imprisonment and fine in the cause
of the Stewarts.
The very important collections of
Mr. Hailstone give a new interest to
Walton HalL The Library, dis-
tributed through several rooms at the
top of the house, is rich in English
and foreign archeology, and contains
by far the most perfect assemblage of
books and prints relating to York-
shire that exists in or out of the
county. Here are also curious collec-
tions of ancient cookery-books, books
on diemonology and witchcraft, broad-
sides and ballads. Armour and other
antiquities are arranged in the hall ;
a lai^e blue dish of Spanish faience,
and a Persian dish (date 1399) of
brass, gilt, being conspicuous, la
the drawing and music rooms is much
fine Venetian glass, including a large
drinking goblet, with a silver bell
attached to the end of the footstalk
— which is probably unique. (The
bell was no doubt tingled as a signal
when the glass was passed on in its
rounds.^ Some 16th cent. Oerman
enamelled glass, old French, Dresden,
and other porcelain, also form part of
the treasures assembled here ; besides
much Bafaelle ware, and Gres de
Flandres. The house also contains
a superb collection made by Mrs.
Hailstone, of needlework, point and
cushion Xace, of all ages and coun-
tries ; British and Saxon relics from
Yorkshire " howes " and barrows ;
and many objects of medinval art.
No%td Priory (Charles Winn,
Esq.) stands pleasantly in a wooded
and picturesque country, about 5 m.
from Wakefield, on the road to Don-
caster. The house (which is not
generally shdwn, and a special in-
troduction is desirable) contains a
large and valuable collection of pic-
tures— some of considerable import-
ance.
A Priory of Augustinian canons
(the first house of that order founded
in England) was settled here in the
464
BaiUe Bi.'-'NosteU Priory.
reign of Henry I. bj Balph Adlave,
the king*s chaplain and confessor, on
a spot where certain hermits had al-
ready established themselves. Ralph
had been left sick at Pontefract dur-
ing one of the northern expeditions
of Henry I. ; discovered the hermits
whilst riding through the woods
here; was struck "oy their pious
manner of living," and wished at
first to join them, but afterwards
established the priory of which he
became the first superior.^ Grants
were made to the new foundation by
Henry and his nobles — especially
by liobert de Laci — ^who gave the
wood in which the priory was built,
rit was within his honour of Sonte-
iract: the name probably signifies
"North 8tall,»' from a "stall" or
hunter's lodge in the wood here — so
Eirkstall, near Leeds.) The Lacys
were accordingly regarded as the real
founders by the canons of Nostel.
The prionr was dedicated to St.
Oswald, whose name seems to have
been connected with the place at an
earlier period; and other churches
dedicated to him were imited to
Nostel, among them the ch. of
Macerfeld (the site is uncertain), on
the battle-field where Oswald had
fallen, and Bamborough, where one
of the royal sainfs anns was preserved.
During the civil war Nostel belonged
to Sir John Wolstenholme ; and it
was here, whilst Charles L was at
York, that Hyde lay concealed and
penned the King's answers to the
propositions of Parliament. (* Life of
Clarendon,' i. 138.)
The existing house, on the site of
the ancient priory, was built entirely
by Sir Bowiand Winn. It is large
and stately, standing in a park well
peopled with deer, and having in
front and at the side (partly separated
from the park by the high road) the
"pool of Nostel," a considerable
piece of water, frequently referred to
m the charters of the priory, as tiie
" stagnum S. Oswaldi,** and one of
the advantages of site which led to
its foundation here. Of the many
interesting pictures in the house the
most remarkable is the celebrated re-
presentation of Sir Thomas Mare emd
hU family, ascribed to Holbein^ and
exhibited at S. Kensington in 1866.
This picture hangs in the ball, and
deserves the most careful examina-
tion. In front, seated, are Bir Thomas
More, aged 50, wearing the chan-
cellor's collar; and his father. Sir
John More, aged 76. On «ie rt.
are Alice, wife of Sir Thos. More, aged
67, kneeling in prayer witii a book :
Margaret fioper, eldest daughter of
Sir Thomas, anil the most learned
of the " MoricsB," as Erasmus, in his
letters, caUs the daughters of the
chancellor, — she holds open in her
hands Seneca's tragedy d ' (ESdipW
at a passage of the dhoms, act iv. ;
and Cecilia Heron, his third daughter.
On the L are Mrs. Clements, wtfe of
Dr. John Clements (her maiden name
was Oigey); and EUzabeth Dancr.
2nd daughter of Sir Thomas, agrd
21, with a vol. of Seneca*8 epistles
under her arm. Behind are Anne
Crisacre, aged 15 ; John M<»e, son of
Sir Thomas, to whom she was he-
trothed, aged 19; and Henry Patti-
son. Sir iliomas's jester. "Next is
John Harris, with a roll of paper in
his hand, secretary to Sir Thomas.
On the wall behind hangs a curious
Dutch clock — ^the original of which
was long preserved at Walton Hall.
In an inner room is a young man
reading. Size of the picture, 11 ft.
6 by 8 ft. 3. The names and ages
are inscribed over every figore.
This picture, painted according to
the dates in 1530, has generally been
supposed to be the same which is
known to have been in the possession
of Andreas Van Loo, a contemporaiy
of Holbein, and to have been pur>
chased at his death by Mr. Roper,
of Well Hall, Eltham, the son-in-law
of Sir Thomas More. Thence it
came by marriage to Sir Bowiand
Winn. Horace Walpole first, how-
ever, and after him Dr. Waagen,
Boule 38. — Wraghy — Pmder^s Oreen.
465
expressed grave doubts whether the
picture now at Nostel is more than
an early copy ; and its exhibition at
S. Kensington has led the most com-
petent critics to the same conclusion.
Holbein's drawing for this picture
remains at Basle, and was engraved
in ontline by Christian Von Mechel
in 1781. It agrees in all essential
respects with the Nostel picture;
and since the original (if this be
indeed a copy) no longer exists, the
value of this at Nostel can hardly
be overrated.
Among other pictures at Nostel
are — Van de Velae, a very fine sea-
piece, with stormy sky ; Jacob Buys-
daeiy a canal, with houses and trees ;
Robert Van der Hoeckj combat of
horseman. " Of great delicacy. The
pictures of this utist, well known to
the connoisseur by his spirited etch-
ings, are very rare." — Waagen. Jan
Mid, a party of peasants in the open
air ; Card JOujardiny Umdscape with
cattle; ChierdnOf a sibyl (very
ime^; Dirk Van Delen, interior of
a ch. ; Vandyeky boys plaving with
leopards— 4 very remarkable picture,
of unusual character for Vandyck,
but no doubt by him; Oritzante,
a landscape; fine; Jan TT^^nanto, a fine
landscape, resembling Buysdael ; Van
AeUt, dead game ; Swaneveldi, land-
scape with the Flight into Egypt;
A. Van Boom, landscape with ruins.
In the Library is preserved a his-
tory of the Prince of Nostel, written
in the time of Prior Quixley (1393-
1428). The ChartuUiry of Nostel is
among theCottonMSS. (Vesp.E.19.)
Close to the entrance of the park is
the Church of Wragby^ in which parish
Nostel is situated. It occupies, in
all probability, the site of a chapel
of St Oswald, either first built by
Balph Adlave, or which he found
already standing, and grouped his
first temporary buildings around it
The ch. is for the most part plain
Trans.-Norman ; and can hardly be
as ancient as tiie priorate of Kalph
Adlave. The font is Norm. Some
ITorkshire.]
good foreign sculpture and carving
has been placed m the ch. by the
Winns of Nostel. Over the altar is
a '* piet^," the Virgin supporting the
Saviour, — ^with figures of the Apostles
on either side. The panels of the
pulpit are filled with carvings in
Turkish box by Venetian artists, re-
presenting the Nativity ; the Adora-
tion of the Shepherds ; the Wise Men }
the Saviour mocked by soldiers (finest,
but painful in design) ; and the De-
scent from the Cross. Bound the
reading-desk are old Flemish figures.
The £. window is filled with stained
glass, the greater part of which seems
German— -but there is a tradition
that some of the figures — ^including
a portrait of Alured Comyn, the last
pnor but one, with St Oswald and
other saints, were brought from the
refectory of the priory. The shield
of Prior Comyn (a golden wheatsheaf
on an az. ground) is at any rate con-
spicuous in the window.
At the end of the S. aisle is a
mont with figures by Chantrey, for
John Winn of Nostel, died 1817, and
his sister. In the N. aisle is a
monument by Flaxman (Justice with
her balance), for Sir Bowland Winn,
died 1765.
In returning to Wakefield from
Nostel, Sharhtm Hall, an Eliza-
bethan house (date 1574) of some
character, containing a few ancient
portraits, is passed rt. There is an
mscription over the porch.
About 2 m. from Wakefield, near
the village of Stanley, is " Pinder'$
Qreen" the traditional scene of the
combat between the "Jolly Pinder
of Wakefield*' and "Bobin Hood,
Scarlet, and John.*'
•••Kow turn Agiliu torn again/ said Uio
Finder,
* For a wrong way yon have gone ;
For you have forsaken the klng^ highway.
And made a path over the com.*
•* 'O that were a shame/ said Jolly Bofjln,
* We helng three, and thou hut one.*
The Pinder le^A back then thirty good feet.
Twas thirty good feet and one.
2 H
466
Saute S9.— Wakefield to Halifax.
*• He lean'd his back fut imto « tborii.
And his foot against a stone.
And there beftnii^t a long summer's day,
A summer's day so long I
Tin that their swords on their broad
bacUers
Were broke Cut into their hands.**
(See the whole hallad in Ingledew's
<BalUd8 and Songs of Yorkshire,*
p. 46.) The fight ended in the
Finder's taking service with Bobin
Hood.*
BOUTE 39.
WAKERELD TO HAUFAX.
{LaiM, and Torkth. Bly.)
12 through-trains daily. Tone of
transit 1 hr.
The rly. rons through the yalley
of ihe Calder, stUl wooded in parts,
and picturesque in spite of the
never-ending tnilli^ vnd. tall chimneys.
The valley is one of the great manu-
facturing centres of Yorkshire, and
indeed m the world. It is a great
colony of mills and mill-hands ; and
is one of the most densely populated
districts of England.
Before reaching fforbury 8iat (the
firat out of Wakefield) the rly. from
Bamsley (see the next route) joins
the line 1., at
jBbr&vry Junction Stat. Horbury,
ri (Pop. of township in 1881, 5050),
* ThehistanrafMGeocgM^xeenfPindsr
of 'Wakefleld,*'^ was long a popular chap-
book, and Is included among TtMnw' * Uarly
Bngliah Bomancea.' ** As good as George-a-
Ureen " Is still a local saying.
is a large manufacturing village. It
was the birthplace of Can- the aithi-
tect (died 1807), the builder of many
important houses in Yorkshire, and
boui architect and founder of a ch.
here, a most unsatisfactivj building.
Frcnn the next station,
TftomWB Xfifis, Dewsbuiy (Rte. 37)
is distant 1 m. rt (A very good
modem ch.. Bee. in character^ with
schools and vicarage, is seen rt., close
to the line, just before the train
entecs the stat. Lees SaU (Cbaries
Wheatley, Esq.) is an Elizabethan
house, partly of wood and plaster.
There are many mills for woollens <^
various sorts, carpets, and " shoddy "
in this part of the valley.)
Thomhill Lees, or Meadows (the
termination is often found in this
district, as at Eirklees), stretch along
the Calder at the foot of the bare
hill-side on which Thomhill Ckufck
is seen 1. (It is about a mile from
the stat.) This ch. must not be left
unvisited by the antiquary. The
nare was rebuilt in 1777 (as appears
from an inscription on the exterior) ;
but the fine Perp. tower, and a Dec
chancel with its aisles, remain, and
the latter contains some rery interest-
ing monuments, besides some of the
finest ancient glass in Yorkshire
The tower arch at the W. end of the
nare is Perp. like the tower itself.
The Dec chancel is of 3 bays, with
small bosses of very good foliage at the
intersections of the hood-mouldings.
The clerestory lights above are in-
sertions of later date. The E. win-
dow and the windows in tiie S. aisle
are Perp., as are those in the K.
aisle, forming the Savile Chantrv.
The E. window is filled with frag-
ments of magnificent Perp. efMs
^portions of a £ee of Jesse) singuUrij
fine in both design and coloaf.
This was probably inserted by Robert
Frost, "chancellor to the redonbted
prince Arthur, and late parson of
this ch.," who, as an inacriptioo
formerly in one of the chancel
Bouts S9.—Thomhitt Lees.
467
windows recorded, ''made new this
window, and a]Bo derestoried and
arthed this choir, finished the jere
of grace, 1499.'' The illscription is
preserved by Dnpdale, but the
window in which it was placed is
not mentioned. It was probably,
however, the £. window. Some glass
of the same date, more fragmentary,
bnt well worth notice, remains in the
E. window of the N. aisle, with re-
mains of an inscription naming thus
when entire, ^Fnj for the gmde
prosperitj, mercy, and grace of Wm.
Sayue, one of the company of Ghrase
In, and for the sooles of Sir John
SaTile and Dame Alice, fadyr and
modyr to the said William ; and also
for the guide prosperity, mercy, and
grace of Sir John SavUe and Dame
which Wm. Savile enlarged
this choir at his cost at the oversight
of his nephew, wherewith pray we
all that (iod be pleased, the which
warke was finished in the yeare of
our Lorde 1497."* There is more
glass (also very good) in the tower
window at the back of the organ,
where it cannot be seen. In the
clerestcMry of the chancel are some
scattered fra^ents (heads, &c.}.
All this glass is probably foreign.
The chantiy on the N. side of the
chancel is rich in Memorials of the
JSavUes, of whose ancient residence,
Thornton Hall, some remains exist in
the yicarage grounds. In the east-
ernmost arah (between chancel and
chantry) is a lofty canopied mont.,
with effigies of a knirht and lady,
Sir George Savile and his wife, sister
of the great Earl of Strafford. This
18 a good example of the time— early
in the rei^ of (Thas. I. The next
arch contains a very large altar-tomb,
wi^ effigies of a knight and his two
wiyes. ^ tiie tomb is a cnrions
inscription-—
** Bonys emong stonys lyes here ftil iityl,
i^iilBt the Mwte wanden wher God wyl '*—
* Soe WhiUkcr's ' LoUlia,' where the date
is Klyen 1M7— an obvioos error.
and the date 1529. The ftgnres are
of oak, and represent a Sir John
Savile, with his two wives, Alice
Vemott and Ella. Fasten. The
armour is not well made out; and
the ladies wear mantles, with chap-
lets on th«r long flowing hair, in
the third arch is a very fine alabaster
tomb, with a knight and lady, temp.
Edw. rV.; the knight wears a coUat
of suns and roses, the badge of Edw.
IV., and is bareheaded. His armour
is an excellent example, but the
sword - scabbard, which has been
elaborately ornamented, is broken.
At the E. end of the chantry is the
earliest effigy— that of a knight (no
doubt a Thomhill — the family which
was established here before the
Saviles, who acauired the property
with the Thornnill heiress), temp.
Edw. I., cross-legged, with a surcoat
over his chain-mail, and his head
under a canopy. A helmet and gaunt-
lets (Elizabethan ?) are hung in this
chapel
A few iinr-covered walls of the
Saviles' HaU here remain as has
already been said, but are of no
architectural value. The Saviles of
Thomhill were the chief of their
name in Yorkshire, and the many
other families of Savile in the county
were descended from them. They
had been settled here since the end
of the reign of Edw. III., and long
held the stewardship of the honour
of Wakefield, which gave tiiem the
command of Sandal Castle, where
they frequently resided. There is
an exeellettt letter from Lord
Strafford to his young nephew
Sir Wm. Savile, giving him in-
structions for his manner of life at
Thomhill (Strafford Letters, i.) ; but
the house was soon afterwards taken
and bumt by the Parliamentarian
forces, and was never rebuilt. Sir
William's son. Sir Oeorge Savile, a
man of great wit and greater vice,
was created by Chas. II. Baron of
EUand, Earl and Marquis of Hidifax.
Beyond the Thoraliill Lees Stat
2 H 2
468
BouU S9.—Kir1clees.
Dewsbury is seen lifting its tall
chimneys through the cloud of
snu^e that hangs densely above it
At Mirfidd Junction the line is
joined rt by the branch rly. that runs
hence to Ijow Moor, on tiie line be-
tween Bradford and Halifax, passing
by Heckmondwike and Cleckheaton
(see Kte. 85). Mirfield Church (Kte.
97) is seen on the hill rt Great fac-
tories and warehouses rise on either
side. The river, already once crossed
by a viaduct, is recrossed ; and
Ckx^per Bridge Junel. is reached,
wheie the line to Huddersfield (Rte.
87) turns off 1.
•On the 1. bank of the Calder, a
little above this stat., is KirtdeeB^ the
seat of Sir G^rge Armytage, famous
as the traditional scene of RMn
Sood^s death, A priory of Cistercian
nuns was founded here in 1155 by
Regner de Fleming, some remains of
which exist, although the greater
part of the materials were used for
building the present Hall, in the
reign of Jas. I. (The family of
Aimytage became possessed of the
site 8th Eliz.) A buttress and two
piers of the N. nave arcade mark the
site of the priory church. W. is a
Perp. building, 3 stories high, pro-
bably part of tiie prioress's lodgings ;
and on the S. side of the ch. is the
cemetery, in which were discovered
in 170C (and are still to be seen) the
tomb-slabs of the first prioress, Eliza-
beth de Stainton, and of her 2 sisters,
who entered the house at the time
of its foundation. The inscription
on the tomb of the prioress runs:
" Bouce J.H.U. de Nazaret Fibs Dieu
Tcz Mercy a Elizabeth Stainton
Priores de cest maison.** The mo6t
perfect relic of the priory, however,
is the gatehouse, with very thick
walls and narrow windows. A small
closet here is pointed out as the scene
of Bobin Hood*s death. According
to a tradition of uncertain age, but
which is certainly older than (yam-
den's time (to whom it was commu-
nicated in a letter from Sir JoIid
Savile), ''the gentlest of tliieve^"
(whom Fuller places arnon^ hb
worthies ^^not for his thievery, but
for his gentleness"), being ** distem-
pered with cold and age," applied
to the wioress of Slirklees, ^ a wcman
yery skilful in physic and Buigq^."
to be let blood. !rhe priofOBv, it is
also said, was his aunt; bat, know-
ing **how fell an enemy he was to
religions persons," she took rerenge
by letting him bleed to death. The
ballad (of no great value— it will be
found in Gntch's * Bobin Hood,' and
in Ingledew's * Yorkshire Ballads')
g'ves the rest of the story. When
>bin, shut up in a narrow room br
the prioress, was slowly bleeding tr^
deatn, he ** bethought him of his
bugle horn," and **blew out weak
blasts three."
«* Then little John, when hearing him.
As he mU under the tree,
' 1 fear my maBter i0 near dend.
He blows 00 wearily.* '*
Little John hastens to Kirklees.
** breaks locks two or three," and
prays that he may be allowed to
bum
** -fair Klrkley hall
And all their nunnery."
This Kobin forbids—
** I never hurt fair maid in all my ttane.
Nor at my end shall it be.
But give me mv bent bow in my hand,
And a broad arrow I'll IH flee ;
And where this arrow is talcen up,
There shall my grave digg'd be.**
So it was done ; and across the park,
at a distance giving sufficient proof
that Bobin had not Tost his skill, not-
withstanding his weakness, is his
grave. It lies high, on a taUe-land
commanding a very fine view across
the valley. The spot on which the
arrow fell, in the midst of thick i
trees, is enclosed by iron railing:
and at the back is a block of stone,
on the side of which is the weU-lmown I
inscription —
Souie S9.—Mland HaU.
469
« Hear Underneath dte Ultl Stean
Las Bobert earl of Huntington
Neer arcir ver as hie aa gead
An pipl kauld him Robin Hend
Sick utiaux as he an Is men
Vn eng land nlvr 8l agen.
Oibit 34 kal Dekembria, 1347.**
The stone has been broken, and the
inscription is said to have been ori-
ginally on the top. It is curious that
nothing has been ascertained as to
the history of these rhymes, which
cannot be older than the last cen-
tnij, and are by no means so pass-
ably antique as the least careful of
Chatterton*8.
The park of Kirklees is large and
well timbered, " full of sunny gUides,
speekled with black shadows of im-
memorial yew-trees." There are
traces of an ancient camp near its
S.E. comer. Close outside is an old
gabled house, now a roadside inn,
known as the 'Three Nuns;' and
near it is the so-called <<Dumb
Steeple ** — a monument which possi-
bly marks the limit of sanctuary for-
merly belonging to the priory.
Leaving the Cooper's Bridge Stat.
and crossing the river, the rly. has
1. the sloping woods of Bradley Park,
and soon roMhes
Brigkouae Stat. Here is another
large and rapidly increasing assem-
blage of mills and warehouses, wool-
len, as usual in this district Beyond
the stat. a very pretty view occurs up
a wooded valley rt, through which a
considerable stream descends to join
the Calder.
EUand Stat Very near the riy. 1.
is the "old hall of fiUand,*" once the
home of a family of the same name,
whose history ufords an example of
private feud to be paralleled per-
haps on the Highland border, but
hardly in England even during the
middle ages. It forms the subject
of a long and indifferent ballad (of
uncertain date, but perhaps formed
on some earlier poem) called 'The
History of Sir John EUand, and
printed in Mr. Ingledew's volume.
(There is also a prose narratiye,
which became a sort of popular
drama, called 'Bevenge upon Be-
venge,' acted by travelling com-
panies in this part of Yorkshire, the
dialogue being .partly extempore, and
partly supplied from the book. See
Hunter*s 8, Yorkshire, ii. 481.)
In the 15th year of Edw. III. (1342)
one Exley, a relation of the Bean-
monts of Crossland Hall (about 5 m.
direct S. of Elland, in the Meltham
Valley), killed, it would appear acci-
dentally or in a sudden fray, a sister's
son of Sir John Elland, who in that
year was sheriff of Yorkshire. Exley
gave to the EUands a piece of land,
hoping by this means to pay his
" blood fine," and to satisfy the power-
ful family whom be had offended:
but Sir John, either discontented
with the value of the land, or resolved
on more complete revenge, sought to
kill Exley, who fled for protection
to Sir Itobert Beaumont. Two of
the neighbouring families — Lock-
wood of Lockwood, and Quarmby of
Quarmby — were bound to the Beau-
monts either by ties of relationship,
or by the feudal *'bond of associa-
tion.^ They, too, seem to have sup-
ported Exley, and accordingly Sir
John Elland led his men by night
first to Lockwood, where they killed
the head of the house — ^**that wily
wight" <M the ballad calls him — and
then to Qnannby, where Hugh of
Quarmby shared the same fate.
Neither of these houses (they stood
at no great distance from Crossland,
but no traces of them remain)
was defended by a moat, and the
assailants seem to have had little
difficulty in breaking into them.
But Crossland, to which they next
went was surrounded by a **wet
ditch," the traces of which are still
visible; and Elland and his men
were stopped by it for some time,
tmtil, in Uie early morning, a servant,
coming out of the house for water,
470
ttoute Z9.—EUand Ball
let down the drawbridge, aeroas
which they instantly ruhed and
entered the house. Sir Bobert Beau-
mont, in spite ci Tigorons resistanee,
was OTeipowered, dragged from his
bed, and beheaded in his own hall
in the presence of his wife and two
Tonng sons. EUand then called for
bread and meat, and insisted that
the two boys should eat with him.
The yonnger did so; bat the elder,
not more ^an 5 years dd, flung back
the meat at his father's murderer:
and Sir John threatened that he
** would speedily weed out the off-
spring of Beaumont's blood, as they
weed out the weed from com." Be
left Crossland, however, without
banning the boys, who with their
mother fled at once into Lancashire,
where they remained for 15 years in
the households of the Townleys and
the Breretons — relatiTSs of Lady
Beaumont. The sons of Lockwood
and of Quarmby had also sought
refuge in Lancashire, and, being now
of sufficient age, they agreed with
the two Beaumonts to return and
take an ample revenge. As^sted by
friends who came with them from
Lancashire, and by others from their
own estates, they waylaid Sir John
EUand on his return from holding
his ^^tum" (court) at Brighouse;
and as he passed through a wood
called '< Cromwell Bottom '^ (about 2
ni. from Elland, and near Brig-
house) they set on him and killed
him. The Beaumonts then, accord-
ine to the ballad, "fled in Fumess
feus,'' but after some iime deter-
mined to complete their work. On
Palm Sunday "at e'en" they hid
themselves in EUand miU, waited
there through the night, and early
on the foUowing morning saw, as
they expected, the yonng knight of
Elland, with bis wife and infant son,
pass by the miU-dam toward Elland
church. Adam Beaumont shot at
him with an arrow from a window of
the mill, but the arrow glanced
from his corselet; WiUiam Lock
wood, with sorer aim, sent a ceeond
arrow throogh EUand's head. The
chUd in arms was also woonded, and
carried back to die in EUand Hafl.
The Beaumonts fled from the hue
and cry that was instantly raised, to-
ward Ainley Wood, making stand
occasionaUy against their parsQeis.
In the wood, Quaimby, who had
been severely wounded, was liidden
by Lockwood " in an ivy tree.** The
others got safe to Crossland Hall,
and the EUand men, as they tamed
back through Ainley Wood, foosd
Quarmby and kiUed him. Lockwood
afterwards escaped to a place caUed
Camel HaU, where he was diacovoed
by the sheriff, and kiUed after a
desperate resistance. His fanuly. a
very ancient one, expired with hbn.
The Beaumonts left the country.
took service with the knights of
Hhodes, and Adam Beaumont leU at
hist in batde with the Turks.
Elland HaU, althon^ stUl retain-
ing some old portions, has been w
much altered, and so much of it has
been rebnUt, that it has lost aU archi-
tectural value. Above it, rt. of the
rly., stretches EUand Park, thickly
wooded; and on its weetem border
is Exley, no doubt the place which
gave name to the Beaumonta* fol-
k>wer. EUand miU stiU occupies its
old position — ^near the bridge ; and a
small part of it is ancient. Cf Gross-
land nothing remains but the moat.
A short distance £. of EUand is
Elland New HaU, a gabled boildinf^
with much woodwork, perhaps built
by the Savilss who (by marriage
with a surviving daughter) succeeded
to the inheritance of the SUands.
Beyond it is EUand Edge^ where are
large quarries of flagst<me, which
occurs in the Yorkshire coal-field
interposed between the lower coals
(which rest on the miUaton^grit)
and the middle series, containing the
ironstone coals of SUkstone and
Flockton. The bed of EUand flag-
Itoute iO.~Wdkefield to Doneasler.
471
stone 18 27 jards in UikkneBB, and is
the giand repository from which the
fireater part of England is 8api>lied.
Some ferns and c^uamitfls occur in it,
but it is not rich in forail remiuns.
There is a good view from EUand
Edge.
Bejond EUand the rlj. again
( the Galder, and at the ^
North Dean Junet the Hndders-
field line (which has run over the
same ground as our own from Cooper
Bridge Jnnct) turns N. up the
-valley of the Hehhle to Halifax. A
-very good new ch., with schools
rxljoining, crowns the cliff ri At
Sowerhy Bridge Stat passengers
for Halifax sometimes have to change
carriages. (For Sowerby Bridge, and
the line thence to Halifax, see Bte.
36.)
BOUTE 40.
WAKEFIELD TO OONCASTER, BT
BARN8LEY Ain> MEXBOROUQH
(CONINQSBOROUQH).
(Lancaehire and TorJuihire Ely.
from Wakefield to Bamsley. AT., 8.,
and X. (Manchester, Sheffield, and
Leeds) from Bamsley to Doncaster.
From Wakefield to Bamsley 7
trains daily. Time of transit, 30 min.)
As far as Horbury Junct. the line
from Wakefield is the same which is
described in Bte. 39. Thence ton-
ing S. it proceeds to
Crigglegton Stat., close to the en-
trance of a long tunnel, which ex-
tends nearly the whole way between
this and the next stai,
JSaigh. From the tunnel the rly.
emerges into the long valley of a
feeder of the river Beame. On the
high ground L is
WooUeyHaU (Godfrey Wentworth,
Esq.), with a Jacobean house
much modernised. In the park, well-
stocked with deer, are some fine
chestnuts. The house was painted
by Aglio, about 1820, and has some
enriched ceilings and Italian scenes
on the walls of the music -room.
It contains some valuable china —
among other pieces, a turtle in Ur-
bino ware, of which only one other
example (at Narford Hall, in Nor-
folk) is known; and a sort of
>ergne, in Plymouth china, with
iclls and fish admirably moulded
and coloured. In the Libraiy are the
cartularies of Monk Bretton I^iory
(see poet)f and of St. Leonards at
Fontefract. WooOey Church, Perp.,
of two periods, with some interesting
Norman jportions, has been well re-
stored. Some excellent figures in
stained glass, of Perp. date, have
been rearranged by Clayton and J^eU,
by whom there are 2 good modem
windows in similar style. In the
ch.-yd. are 2 remarkable coped
tombs, with sides built up with
ashlar, date and appropriation un-
known. There is a venr wide and
fine view from WooQey idge^ as the
high ground above the village is
called. The vale of the Gal£r is
seen on one side, and in another
direction the long ridges of moor-
land about Penistone.
Bt. of the rly. are seen the exten-
sive park and lake of West lireUtm
(W. B. Beaumont, Esq.). The house,
large and fine, is of 3 periods, but all
comparatively modem. It contains
472
Route 40. — Darion Oliurch — Barnsley.
some good portraits. There is a
wide view from the terrace over the
Deame valley. At the next stat,
Doffon, is a fine Church (restd.),
worth a visit. It is late Dec. or earlj
Perp. (nave with clerestory, and a
Peip. open roof), and Perp. chancel,
on the wall-plate of which is the
inscription, ^ Ad landem Dei et
omninm sanctonun istum cancellmn
de novo construxit Thomas T^kyll,
prior monasterii Monk BritannisB, et
nnjus ecclesisB patronus; et eundem
complete finivit anno Domini 1517.^'
The ch. belonged to the Lacys and
their descendants, until in the 1st
Rich. III. it was given to Monk
Bretton Prioiy, the arms of which,
three covered cups, occur in the
wood-work of the nave roof. John
Heathfield, vicar of Darton during
the civil war, has left a short notice
of himself in the parish register, and
adds a prayer for delivery from the
Roundhead, more honourable to his
loyalty than to his Latinity, — "A
dolis rotundi capitis, libera me
Domine, et JudsB suavium det Deus
ut caveam.** In the ch. is an elabo-
rate monument, with a full-sized
marble statue, for John Silvester
(died 1722, aged 70), who, when a
smith at the Tower of London, is
said to have constructed a chain for
stretching across the Thames, so as to
prevent uie Dutch fleet from sailing
up the river. This was the founda-
tion of his fortunes, and he became a
large landowner in this part of Tork-
shire.
An obelisk, about 70 ft. hiffh, near
the entrance of Darton ▼i%B:e, is
a memorial of Ann, wife of Thomas
Beaumont, of Darton, d. 1778. The
modem church of High Hoyland is
seen on the hill rt. Tliere is a wide
view from the ch.-yd.
A little beyond Darton the river
Deame is crossed.
JBamdeu Junet, Stat for the Lan-
cashire and Yorkdiire, Midland, and
Manchester, Shei&eld and Lincoln
Rlys. I
Bamdey Stat. (Inm : Eing*8 Head,
old-fashioned and comfortable; famous
for the best mutton-chops in York-
shire; Royal). Bamslev is a place
of little interest for the ordmazr
tourist. It is without antiquities, and
the extensive manufactories are venr
far from rendering the town agree-
able. It is, however, a good point
from which to explore the very in-
teresting country lying between it
and Sheffield. Wentworth Castle
(see po8() is easily accessible from
Bamsley. Wortley and Wbamcliife
(Rte. 44) are reached in a very short
time bv rlv. ; and the branch of the
S. Yorkshire Rly. between Bamsler
and Sheffield (Rte. 46) wUl take the
tourist through much beautiful ooon-
trv, well worth exploring on foot.
Wentworth House (described Rte.
4.5) may also be visited from the
Chapel Town Stat, on this line. AH
these places may be made the objects
of days* excursions from Bamaley.
The town, from its exposed sxtoa-
tion, was fomierly known as ** Bleak
Bamsley,'* an epithet now changed
to " Black Bamsley,** from its smoke-
stained houses, and narrow dirty
streets. The population in 1861 was
17,885. In 1811 it was 5014. In
1881 it was 29,781. Except Mid-
dlesbrough and Bradford, no town in
Yorkshire is increasing at so rapid a
rate. It is one of the chief seats of
the linen manufacture.
Damasks, drills, dowlas, ducks,
broad sheetings, &c., are made hete.
There are bleaching, dyeing, and ca-
lendering works in and near the
town, besides a flax-spinnii^ mill:
but most of the flax thread is brought
froln Leeds and other places at a
distance. Bamsley was once exclu-
sively celebrated for its iron wire.
The surrounding country abounds in
coal (there are more than 42 collieries
in the district), iron, and freestone,
and there are several iron foundries
in the neighbourhood.
[The Odkt CoUiery at Ardsley in
Bottle 40. — Samatey.
473
this district was the scene (Dec 12,
1866) of one of the most fatal acci-
dents in a coal-mine ever recorded.
More than 800 men and boys perished
in the first explosion ; and 20 or 30
volunteers engaged in searching for
their missing comrades were killed bj
a second explosion on the following
morning. (The total number killed
was 358.) The two accidents which
most nearly approached this in extent
of destruction were at Lundhill Ck)l-
liery, in this district, in 1857, when
189 were killed; and at Hartley,
Ihirham, in 1862, when 209 were
killed.]
St. Mwy's Church, modem except
the tower, was built in 1820, m
the Oothic of that period, and in
1870 greatly improved and decorated.
Near the stat. is the IndependerU
Cluipel, built in 1851, Gothic, with
a good spire. The Park of Bamsley
was given to the town in 1861 by
Mrs. Locke, widow of Joseph Locke,
Esq., M.P., who was educated at the
Grammar School here.
*T' Baimala Foaks Annual, an
Pogmoor Olmenack. Be Tom Tred-
dlehoyle, Esq.,* is published here
regularly, and very well illustrates
the pectdiar dialect of the district.
Old Bamsley, which gave rise to
the town, is a small vilhige on the
summit of a hill, about 1 m. to the
N.W.
Bamsley enjoys the advantages of
inland navigation by means of the
Bamsley Canal, which extends from
the Deame and Dove Canal, near the
town, to the Calder near Wakefield.
A branch Ely, runs to Cudworth
Stat., 3} m. £. on the Midland Line.
[About 2 m. N.E. of Bamsley,
between the river Deame and the
Bamsl^ Canal, are the remains of
MonJc Brettan Priory. (The village
of Monk Bretton is more than 1 m.
N.) The prioiy was founded for
Cluniac monks by Adam Fitz-Swain
in 1157 (Srd Hen. II.). The site was
{^diited to a certain WUliam Blith-
man, whose descendant sold it to
George, Earl of Shrewsbury.
The remains are scanty, but de-
serve a visit. The gatehouse (Perp.)
is perfect, and the E. end of the ch.,
with some portions of the domestic
buildings, are Dec **A pigeon-
house," says Kicknum, *' seems of E.
Eng. date ; it is circular, and a curi-
ous building."
3 m. S.W. of Bamsley is Went-
worth CagOe (F. Vemon Wentworth,
Esq.), to be carefully distinguished
from Wentworth Woodhouse, 3ie seat
of Earl Fitzwilliam (Bte. 45), with
which it is often confounded. The
township of Stainborou^ (so named
most probably from Stainborough
Low, a mound which may have been
the ancient gathering-place of the
district) had rolonged to the families
of Everingham and Cutler, until in
the reign of Wul m. it was bought
by Thomas Wentworth, Baron Biu>y,
1st Earl of Strafford, of the 2nd
creation. The old house, which had
been known as Stainborough, was
pulled down, and the new one re-
ceived the name of Wentworth
Castle. This house, a building of
the Queen Anne period, was refronted,
after a design of his own, by William,
2nd Earl of Strafford of the new
creation; and the park in which it
stands, highly omamented with wood
and water, is in troth, as Oray the
poet says " he was told," as beautiful
a scene of rich and cultivated countiy
as Yorkshire affords. "This place,**'
writes Walpole, " is one of the very few
that I really like. The situation, woods,
views ... are perfect in their kinds."
"Gramercy for your intention," he
afterwards writes to the Miss Berrys
(1789) " of seemg Wentworth Castle.
It is my favourite of all great seats.
Such a variety of ground, of wood
and water, and almost all executed
and disposed with so much taste by
the present earl. Mr. Gilpin sillily
could see nothing but faults there.
The new front, in my opinion, is one
474
Baiite 4cO.—Wentworth Casile^WomlnoetL
of the lightest and most beautiful
bnildings on earth; and pray like
the liUle Gothic edifice, and its
position in the menajg^erie. I recom-
mended it, and had it drawn bj Mr.
Bentley from Chichester Cross.**
In the quadrangle of the house is
a statue by By^ach of the Lord
Strafford who refronted the house.
Of the pictures here (which are
numerous, but among them are many
copies) the most important and inter-
esting are—
Tintoretto (according to Waagen,
but here called Holbein), portrait of
a monk : Lorenzo Lotto, a half-length
male portrait, very excellent, in-
scribed »* An. xlii. 1537 " (here said
to be by Oiorgume, who died in
1511) ; lAtecu van Vden (called JRu-
heni), large landscape with figures;
Walker or Sir P. Lely, portrait of
Cromwell; Bartholomew de Bruyn
(marked Unknovm), '* a good though
rather late specimen of uiis Cologne
master ; Holbein (marked Ufiknoum),
iBcolampadius the reformer; LtuM$
de Heere, portrait, said to be that of
Lady Eleanor Brandon, dau. of Chas.
Duke of Suffolk, and Mary, dow-
ager of France and sister of Hen.
VlII. — ^this picture is, however, dated
1565 : Lady Eleanor died in 1547 ;—
.i^&ano, Flight into Egypt; Unknown,
portrait of Thomas, 1st Lord Went-
worth, served in France in Hen.
VIII.'s expedition in 1528, created
Lord Wentworth of Nettleden in
1529, Lord Chamberlain and Privy
Councillor to Edw. YI. ; Unknown,
2nd Lord Wentworth (eldest son of
1st lord), Grovemor of Calais under
Edw. Yl. and Mary, surrendered
Calais to D. of Ouise, 1588; Antonio
More (?) Sir Philip Sydney, full-
length ; Unknown, but signed H. E.,
Mary Queen of Scots, dated 1563,
age 24 (but the queen, bom in 1542,
was then only 21) ; Vandyck, Henry
Danvers, Earl of Danby, served in
France and the Low Counlries : made
President of Munster and Governor
of Guernsey by James I., created
Earl of Danbr by CJhas. I. 1625;
Earl of Strafford in armour, fine:
John, Count of Nassau, half-length
(fine); Vandvck himself with bro^
hat and feather (Chas. I., Chas. and
Henrietta Maria, family of Chas. L,
Lord Strafford and his Secretaxr, are
copies); Zuoekero, Earl of Esex:
Sir Peter Lely, Margaret Lucas, the
eccentric Duchess of Newcastle :
Bttbens, portrait by himself, — & re-
plica of that at Windsor.]
At Bamaley the Lancashire and
Yorkshire Ely. ends. A branch of
the Manchester, Sheffield, and Leeds
Ely. proceeds thence through a not
very mteresting country (abonnding.
however, in coal and collieries) Ui
Wombwell, where it falls in with
the main line of the same rly.
running between Doncaster and
Sheffield. The Deame and Dove
Canal is crossed by the rly. near the
Siairfoot and Arddey Stat, and at
Aldham JuncL a branch of the Sooth
Yorkshire Rly. falls in rt This
short branch crosses the country to
the Silkstone Stat on the rly. be-
tween Penistone and Bamsler (see
Bte. 44), and is chiefly used for the
conveyance of stone and iron. The
whole of this country is one vast col-
liery, and this branch line, as far as
Worahorough, where Alex. Pope's
mother, Edith Turner, was bam, is
accompanied by a branch from the
Deame and Dove Canal, the banks uf
which are lined with wharfs, and with
coal, lime, chemical, and flint-glass
works.
At WombioeU the ch. has been re-
built, with the exception of the
chancel, which is E. Eng. and in a
state of utter disrepair. The ground
about the ch. is disgracefullr kept.
Q^ m. N. across the Biver Dove, is
Varfidd, where is a fine ch.— see
Rte. 41.)
The stats, at WaJQt'Up(m'Dtame
(" wath,*" A.-S., signifies a ford, and
occurs frequency in Yorkshire) uui
SouU 40. — CkmingAoraugh CaMe.
476
Meatbo/nmgh JuneL (where the Mid*
land Bly. between Doncaster and
Sheffield falls into the line rt) are
DOW passed. At the east end of the
yUlage of Mexborooffh is the Ctutie
HiU, a fortified hiU of the same
character as others at Wincobank
(Rte. 45), Laughton (Rte. 47), Tick-
hill (Bte. 47), and perhaps Conings-
borongh (see pot^. All have a
circular or elliptic enclosure, with
a high monnd doeely adjoining the
dyke, or In the actual ring of it. It
is difficult to say whether these are
British or Saxon works ; though Mr.
G. T. Clark regards them as de-
cidedly Saxon, and as always indi-
cating the stronghold of some Early
Englsh possessor. Mexboro^gh
seems to be connected with the line
of intrenchment running by Winco-
bank from Sheffield. (See Bte. 45>
The '* Ch&teaux k Mottes," common
in Normandy, greatly resemble these
Yorkshire stnmghdds, and should
be compared with thenL They are
enclosures— elliptical, round, and ir-
regular— defended b^ earthen dykes
and ramparts, and without any trace
of walls or stone-work. All have a
** motte," or elevated mound.
Mexborough ch. has E.E. por-
tions. Here the ralley of the Don
is entered, and the scenery becomes
very pleasing as we approach
CkmingAorcugh Stat The Castie,
the fame of which is widely spread
from its haying been made the home
of Athelstane the Unready in
* Ivanhoe,' and the scene of his
funeral feast, rises on a wooded hill
rt., about ten min. walk from the
stat. (The keys, howeyer, are kept
at the village, on the other side of
the castle.) Sir Walter Scott, writing
to Morritt in 1811, whilst ♦Eokeby'
was in contemplation (he seems to
have had some intention of intro-
ducing Coningsborough in that poem),
says that he " once flew past Ckinings-
borough on the mail-coach, when its
round tower and flying buttresses had
a most romantic effect in the morning
dawn." It is accurately described
in * Ivanhoe,' where it is said that
"there are few more beautiful or
striking scenes in Eng^d than are
presented by the vicinity of this
ancient fortzees. The soft and gentle
river Don sweeps through an amphi-
theatre in whicn cultivation is richly
blended with woodland; and on a
mount ascending from the river, well
defined by walls and ditches, rises
this ancient edifise, which, as its
name implies, was, previous to the
Ckmquest, a roval residence.*'
The name Coningsborough, King's
hold or " borough,'* may perhws in-
dicate that a royal fortress of some
kind (probably of wood) existed on
this site during the Saxon period;
and the outer walls of the castle are
apparently raised on an earthwoik of
the same general character as Mex-
borough (see anUy But in spite of
all that hais been written on the subject
by earlier antiquaries, such as Grose
and King, and by Sir Walter him-
self (in the notes to ^Ivanhoe '), we
now know positively that no part
of the existing remains is earlier
than the Norman Conquest The
keep tower, to which the circular
form and the projecting buttresses
give an unusual appearance, was no
doubt the work of one of the earls of
Warrene, in (perhaps) the latter part
of the 12th cent (It has sometimes
been assigned to Hamelyn, Earl of
Warrene, who died in 1202.) The
honour of Coningsborough was given
by the Conqueror to his son-in-law,
the great Earl of Warene, whose
remains were discovered at Lewes in
Sussex in 1845. In the hands of his
descendants it continued till the
middle of the reign of Edw. III. It
then passed to ^Unond of Langley,
Duke of Tork, and to his descend-
ants. Elizabeth granted the castle
and demesne to her cousin Lord
Hunsdon; and it has since passed
through many hands to those of its
present owner, the Duke of Leeds.
476
Boute 40. — ConingAorough (JaaUe.
The C<Mtie crowns a natural knoll
above the Don, the summit of which
forms a platform of rather less than
an acre, and is encircled by the enter
wall of the place. The entrance is
from the Tillage or S.W. side, bj a
narrow winding way between walls,
flanked by 2 round towers. The
whole was surrounded by a deep
fosse, the sides of which, especially
on the N.E., are steeply scarped.
At the N.W. angle, and forming
part of the circuit of the outer
wall, is the keep-tower, 86 ft high.
The basement walls are 15 ft thick.
The tower is circular in plan, and
within is a perfect cylinder, of about
22 ft. diameter. Outside, 6 buttresses
of enormous projection ascend above
the summit as turrets, and give to
the building the appearance <k a
polygon (compare Onord CasUe in
Suffolk). The lower stage or base-
ment of the tower slopes outwards for
strength.
The entrance is by a modem and
steep flifht of steps (the original
means of access was no doulrt of
wood, and removable) to a door about
14 ft. above the ground, from whence
a stair in the wall leads to each of
the upper stories. The keep alto-
gether consists of 3 stories Hiesides
the dungeon), the first of which is
on a level with the door. Below
this again, and underground, is the
dungeon, a domed chamber, acces-
sible only by a hole in the dome.
In the centre of this chamber is a
small well, about 2 ft diameter, 105
ft. deep, and lined with stone. (It
has, however, been filled up.) Tlie
wooden floors of every story have long
been wanting,and the immense cylinder
is now open from turret to foundation.
The first floor, reached through
the door of entrance, is a plain,
circular room, unlighted even by a
loophole. A flight of 25 steps in the
thickness of the wall, rt. of the entry,
leads to the level of the tecond flow,
which contains a good chimney,
having at the sides triple shafts
with carved initials. Here is ak^
a garderobe formed in one of Htfi
buttresses, and beyond again a small
apartment in the wall, with a stone
bench miming round 3 sides, and
a window. The fireplace in it is an
excellent example, and the flat anrh
above it is filled with curiously joggled
masonry. Near the entrance is a
stoup tor holy water. The third
floor seems to have contained the
principal or <* lord's " apartment, with
a fireplace, holy-water stoup nesu* the
door, and garderobe in the thickness
of the YTtSi. From this room opens
the chapel (described in 'Ivanhoe^'
where Athelstane reappears to pre-
side at his own funeral feast). From
a charter of Earl Hamelin, temp.
John, it appears that this chapd
was dedicated to SS. Philip and
James, and endowed with 50s. a year.
to be paid from Goningsborongh
mills. It is 12 ft. long, 8 ft hmad
in the centre, and 6 at each end, and
about 16 ft. high. It is divided mto 2
bays by plain circular shafts, which
cany the ribbed vaulting; and in
the eastern bay is a narrow loopholed
window (formed in one of the but-
tresses) with zigzag ornament. In
the side walls of this bay are 2
piscinsB, and 2 snudl circular open-
mgs for light, filled with a qnatre-
foU. Another small room (perhaps
assigned to the castle priest) opens L
of the entrance of the chapel.
The staircase continues through
the wall of this story to what is now
the top of the keep, with the bnttifss
turrets rising above it. In the thick-
ness of one of the buttresses is a
well-built oven in perfect condition
(there is an oven in a similar situa-
tion at Orford Castle in Suffolk) ; and
in two others are small chambers. Tb^
flue-vents from the fireplaces, sepa-
rated at the top by a thin stone, should
also be noticed. The view fiwn the
top of the castle is very striking: bat
although iron rods have been placed
for protection between the different
stories, the ascent rcqtiircs a gwd
Boute 40. — Coningaborough — Sproiborough
All
bead and some nerve. The mouth of
the dungeon, fringed with grass and
fern, jawns below, and the passage
from one stair to another must be
made along a narrow ledge which
calls for wary treading. 'Ae tMen
work, inside and out, is ver^ good,
and Uie whole ruin is hung with wild
flowers, harebells, and ivy. Near the
keep is a sallyport in the wall, of curi-
ous construction, but now blocked
up on the inner side.
Outside the castle walls is a barrow
called (he tomb of Hengiti. Neither
the deatii nor the grave of Heneist
is mentioned in the * Sat. Chron. or
by Bede ; but Qeoffrey of Monmouth,
cither by pure invention or b^ the
adoption of vague British traditions,
made this neiehbonrhood the scene
of a battle m "vimich Hengist is taken
by Ambrosius, brought a prisoner
into his own castle, and afterwards
>3eheaded outside the walls by a cer-
tain *' prelate'' named Eldol. They
'^laid nim in the earth after the
heathen law,*' writes Layamon, who,
like Wace in the original Brut, and
many a later chronicler, has followed
GeaBrey throughout The Norm,
castle of the Warrenes was perhaps
newly finished when Geoffrey of Mon-
mouUi's '* history" was published
(about 1138), and that Geoffrey^s
work at once became well known in
this neighbourhood is clear from the
words of Alured of Beverley, who
says that whoever was ignorant of it
" notam rusticiiatis incurrebat." The
name of Hengist was then perhaps
first connected with the ancient bar-
row outside the castle. It is found at
one other place in the neighbour-
hood— at Hengeti-rein — the name of
a belt of wood N.W. of Sprotborough.
Coningsborough Church (restored)
is principally Norm, (lower part of
tower and cbancel-arch) and Trans.-
Norm., and deserves a visit. The
Norm, work is perhaps of the same
data as the castle. There is an un-
usual piscina at the £. end of the N.
aisle, a good Perp. font, and a remark-
able tomb of the 12th cent. (?) curi-
ously carved with rude bas-reliefs.
The porch is £. Eng. There arc
some early tombstones in the church-
yard. The church was given by
William, the 2nd Earl of Warrene
(died 1138), to the Cluniac Prioiy of
Lewes, in Sussex, which his father
had founded. The CHuniacs pos-
sessed it until the Dissolution.
A Roman road, running N., and
marked by the names " Street " and
** Street Lane,'* crossed the Don a
short distance W. of Goninesborough,
and before the junction of the river
Deame with the Don. The angle of
this junction is known as the ^* Straf-
ford Sandi,** and it was from this
place— " street-ford,*' the ford of the
Roman '^Street," which gives name
to the wapentake — that the great
Lord Strafford took the title by which
he is best known, although the Earl-
dom was only granted twelve months
before his death.
Before passing through a short
tunnel, immediately beyond the stat.,
there is a very picturesque view of the
castle rt., witib the river (here crossed
by a weir) in the foreground. The
Don is then crossed, and through a
richly wooded countiy the train
reaches
Sproihorough (Stat, on the Midland
Rly., between Doncaster and Shef-
field ; the South Yorkshire trains do
not stop here). The ch. is seen rt.
The stat. is in the midst of deep cut-
tings in the magnesian limestone,
here extensively quarried. CHiffs of
this rock here border Uie river, and
are very picturesque.
To most persons Sprotborough will
seem aplace of no very great interest.
The Chureh contains some ancient
portions ; monuments to the Fitz-
William and Gopley families, some old
screenwork and tattered flags, said to
have been carried by Charles I.'s army,
and a singular stone chair, with
grotesque sculpture, which is not
earlier than the Idth or 14th cent.
478
Bouts 40. — 8pro&)orough — Barnboraugh.
Near the Tillage ib Sprodtorough HaU,
the seat of Sir Joseph Copley, Bart,
a large house built in the reign of
Charles 11., commanding a wide pros-
pect over the river, which runs near
the house on its S. side. It contains
some pictures — ^portraits of Sir W.
Waller; of Denzil HoUis; Commis-
sioner-General Copley in the reiffn of
Chas. I.; Chas. L; Lady Digby,
Vandyck; portraits by Bemlmindt;
2 interiors of churches, P. Neefs;
2 views in Venice, CanaletH. There
is a libraiy containing some curious
MSS., chiefly collected by Sir God-
frey Copley, the 2nd baronet, an early
member d the Royal Society, and
the founder of the '' Copley Medal,"
one of its greatest distinctions.
The Cc^leys inherited this estate
throuffh an heiress of the great York-
shire house of Fitzwilliam, of whom
the present earl is the male repre-
sentative.
The Church of Sprotborough con-
tains some fine tombs of Fitzwilliams
and Copleys. The earliest Fitx-
wiUiams are a knight and lady, temp.
Hen. III. In the chancel is a good
brass for Wm. Fitzwilliam and his
wife, 1474. The principal Copley me-
morial is the monument of Fhilip
Copley, temp. Eliz. There are some
fragments of old gkss. The stone
chur has been already noticed. In
the midst of the village once stood a
cross which bore an inscription re-
cording the bygone hospitality of
the place: —
** Whoso iB hongry and Uato veil to eate,
Let him come to Sprotbnrgh for his meate ;
And for a night and for a day
His horse shall tukve both oome and hay,
And none shall ask him when he goeth
•way."
This cross was pulled down in 1520.
At Oadeby, in the pariah of Sprot-
borough, a small but very richly
decorated ch. has been built by Sir
Q. a, 8ooU for Sir J. Copley, It is
generally on the model of Skelton
near York (see Bte. 1), bat of a later
architectural style ; with nave, clum-
cel, and aisles all under one roof, and
a beU-gable in the middle. It will
hold atwut 120 people, but is said to
have cost 6000Z.
pn the porch of Bamboromgh Ck.
about 1} m. W. of Sprotborong^h, one
of the Cresacres, former lords of
Bamborough, is said to have killed,
and to have been killed by, a wild
cat, which attacked him in a wood
at some distance from the ch. The
battle continued as far as the porrb.
where it ended fatally for both. The
red tinge of the stone paving the
porch (magnesian limesUme) is said
to be owing to the blood of ike com-
batants, which cannot be removed.
The church itself contains the
curious monuments of Percivai Cte-
sacre Hiving in 1455), and o£ his
wife Allda, died 1450. On her
gravestone 9 strings of beads are so
arranged as to form a cross. Tlie
tomb of Percivai Cresacre is betwera
the chancel and the N. ch&pd. His
effigy in oak lies on it ; and the front
and sides are covered with the
rosary, the favourite device of the
Cresacres, and with short inscrip-
tions. This is the Cresacre said to
have been killed bv the wild cat,
and the lion at the feet of the effigy
passes, in local opinkm, for that
animal. A wild cat was the crest
of the Cresacres, whose interest in
Bamborough passed by mazriage to
the family of the great Sir Thomas
More. Anne Cresacre, who mairied
John More, son of Sir Thomas (see
the picture at Nostel, Bte. 88), was,
with her husband, buried in this
church. The old house of the
Cresacres and Mores still remains,
2 m. N. of Baraboroogh, on the high
road between Bamsl^ and Doneas-
ter, is HiMelon; adjoining whidi
is Hidfdeton HaU (Lord Hali&x).
Hickleton is 7 m. from Doncaster.]
Bt of the line is Wwrmmiiik,
where Fox, the founder of the
BouU 41. — London to Leeds,
479
Quakers, preached in a meeting-
house nrhich still exists. A little
beyond a good view opens of Don-
caster Chnrch, with a foregronnd of
tree-dotted meadow and the winding
Don, and the train soon reaches
Ihneatter Stat, (see Bte. 1).
ROUTE 41.
LONDON TO LEEDS.
(^Narih Midland Baikoay).
(6 through trains daily. The or-
dinary trains perfonn the distance in
abont 6} hours; the express in 4
bonrs 45 min., abont the same time
taken by the express on the Great
Northern Bly, from London to Leeds
by Doncaster— see Bte. 28.)
Leaving London from the King's
Cross Stat (see Bte. 1a) to Chester-
field. Here the line divides, one
branch proceeding vid Sheffidd, as
described (Bte. 1a), the other on rt.
direct to Itotherhttoi, by which the
Yorkshire border is crossed close to
the Stat at
WoodhMue MiU, Here the rly.
from Sheffield to Great Grimsby
passes over onr line, on a viaduct of
30 arches.
[2 m. rt. is AaiUm, Aston is
chiefly noticeable as having been
the residence of WiUiam Mamn the
poet, who held the living from 1755
to his death in 1797. Here he
amused himself by canying into
execution, so far as the sixe of his
grounds would permit, the princinlee
of art laid down in his ' English
Garden,' which he wrote at Aston.
The garden remains nearly as he
laid it out, with walks winding
between trees and broad spaces <n
greensward, and openings here and
there toward the distant hills of
Derbyshire. Li a summer-house is
an urn and medallion to the memory
of Gray, who often visited Mason
here. ^'Aston's secret shade" is
duly celebrated in a sonnet addressed
by Mason to the Earl of Holdemess
in 1763 :—
*' Here, as the Ugbt-wing'd moments glide
serene,
I weave the bower; aiomid the tufted mead
In careless flow the simple pathway IcmmI,
And strew with many a rose the shaven
green.'*
Mason was a painter and musician
as well as a poet. He was Precentor
of York; and is said to have greatly
improved the Cathedral choir, as well
as that of his own village, which be-
came a model for the neighbouring
churohes. In the church is a plain
memorial tablet for the poet, with a
medallion placed there bv his suc-
cessor, Mr. Alderson. llie Church
(partly Norm.) was probably re-
built by the Melton family, and con-
tains a monument with effigies of
Lord Darcy and his 3 wives. There
is some curious grotesque carving on
the S. side. AzUm HaU, long the
seat of the Earls of Holdemess, noy
belongs to J. Nerelst, Esq.]
On the rt., abont 1} m. beyond
Woodhouse Stai, ia Treeton Church
(13th cent.), in which tradition
asserts that Bradshaw the regicide
was buried. He was, however, buried
in Westminster Abbey, and was dis-
interred with Cromwell and Ireton,
to be hanged and re-buried at Ty-
burn.
Boute 41. — Darfieldr^Boysion.
The rly. crosses the river Bother
three times, and then the Don, before
reaching Matbonmgh Stat (for Bo-
therham).
(For the line hence to
SwifUon Junct., see Bte. 45).
At Swinton the South Yorkshire
Branch BI7. from Bamsley to Don-
caster (Bte. 40) crosses the line.
3 m. bejond, through the Cathill
tunnel, 149 yds. long, we reach
Darfidd Stat. Here is a fine
Churehj worth a visit The ch. and
village stand on a ridge overlooking a
great stretch of wooded country much
broken into hill and vaUey, and
abounding in coal and collieries.
The ch. is for the most part very late
Dec., but has some £. Eng. (?) por-
tions in the choir. These are the
chancel-arch (slightly stilted), and 1
bay on the S. side. The rest of the
choir (which is of 8 bays) is late Dec.
or early Perp. (The windows of the
S. aisle in both nave and choir have
flowing late Dec. tracery.) (The
glass 18 modem.) In the pier be-
tween the choir-arch and the 1st bay
N. there is a large square hagioscovil
On the S. side the thickness of the
pier is pierced by a rood-loft stair,
now used as an access to the pulpit
At the £. end of the S. choir aisle is
a good monument with effigies of a
knight (probably one of the Bosviles
of New Hall, in this parish) and
lady, temp. Bich. II. The knight
wears a collar of SS. There is some
good carvings on the bench-ends in
the N. aisle. The nave is very late
Dec, witl) clerestory lights filled
with flowing tracery. The old
seating (17th cent.) exists throi^h-
out, and has some carving. The
font is Perp., and a very good and
widp Perp. arch opens to the tower,
which is massive rerp. There is a
tradition that the bells were brought
from Beauchief Abbey, near Sheffield.
In the churchyard an obelisk is
raised to the memoiy of 189 men and
boys who were killed by an explosion
in the LundhiU CJoUiery, Feb. I'X
1857. They were buried'here.
2 m. rt of the rly., between Dar-
iield and the next station (Cud-
worth), lies the village and manor of
Great Houghton, from which place
Lord Houghton receives his title.
The ancient manor-house of the
Bhodes family here, within whose
waUs the great Earl of Straifofd
wooed and won his bride, and which
was afterwards defended against the
Parliamentarians, has become a pro-
saic village alehouse.
From uie next stat,
Cudworth, a branch line mns to
Bamsley (see Bte. 40) 3 m. S.W.
Part of the town is visible from this
rly. Hence for several miles the
rly. runs by the side of the Bamslev
Canal, and passes the Yorkshire sum-
mit level 202 ft above the sea.
The next stat is
Boyiton and Notion, Boygton
Church (2 m. S.W. of the stat) was
given at the beginning of the 1.3th
cent, to Monk Bretton Priory. The
ch. (restored), which is fine and
worth notice, is late Dec, and much
resembles that of Darton (Bte. 40).
The open roof is Perp. There are
chapels N. and S. of the choir, and
parallel with it In the tower is a
priest^s chamber. There is a monu-
ment for Sandford Neville of Cheret
(died 1672>— a skb of black marble
supported by 4 boys in white marble,
whose streams of tears are sufficient k
absurd. (When Dodsworfh visited
this ch. in 1621 he noticed in one J
the windows a plough drawn by four
oxen, driven and led by angeU
Below was the inscription —
** Ood speed the plough.
And Bend ua oome cnon^.")
The church of Fdkirk, 1} m. S.E.
of the station, has Nonn. portions.
A little beyond the Boyston and
Notion Stat, the CHievet viaduct of
Boute ii.— Leeds to Setby.
481
13 a/ches, and the Gheyet tnirnel 688
yards long, are passed.
Chevet HaU is a house, temp. Hen.
VnL, with the inscription on a heam
— " Thjs hows was mad by John
NcTjll, knight, and dame Elizabeth,
hys wyf, in the yere of ouar God
1529.^ In the park, from which
f^ood views are commanded, are some
very fine beeches.
Kt is Walton Hall, the seat of the
late C. Waterton, Em. (see Bte. 38),
and the spire of Wakefield Ch. is
seen L At
Oakeruhaw Stat the line from
Wakefield to Pontefract (Bte. 28) is
passed. (Bt, 2 m. is Nost^ Priorvj
Bte 38).
At the Oakenshaw Stat, the North
Midland Bly. is not more than 1) m.
from the Leeds and Manchester Line
(Bt«. 38), which nms thropgh Wake-
field; but owing to an intervening
ridge of high eronnd, the 2 lines do
not meet untu within a short dis-
tance of the Nonnanton Stat
An excavation of considerable
depth in the rock, which famishes
good bnilding-stone, conducts to the
NormanUm Jmict. Stat. This is a
laree, important, and bustling stat.
and point of iuiction belonging to
the Midland, the N. Eastern, and the
Lancashire and York. Bly. Companies.
The stat stands within the moat of
a Boman camp, only partly traceable
on the river C!alder.
AU Saints* Church, Norm, and
Perp., the tower 1629, contains the
graves and monuments of many York-
shire families — Torre, PaveUs, Mallet,
Cockells, and an altar-tomb to John
Treston.
At Normanton passengers for York,
for Hull, and for Leeds are separated,
and are forwarded in distinct trains.
About i m. N. of this stat. the rly.
to Leeds diveiges 1. from that to
York. The river Calder is crossed,
and at
ITorhhire.}
MeUUey Junet. the branch line
(lAncashire and Yorinhire) from
Pontefract falls into the N. Midland.
(For the line henoe to
Lkeds JuNor. see Bte. 28.)
BOUTE 43.
LEEDS TO SELBY, BT MILFORD]
JUNCTION.
(North Battem Ely, -^9 trains
dauy in 36 min.)
Leaving Leeds from the New
Stat the line soon crosses the little
stream of Killingbeck, a feeder of
the Aire. (Bt is Killingbeck Hall,
and near it, on the E. side of the
beck, are some curious earthworks,
consiisting of a number of terraces
cut in the hill-side one above another.
They run out as they approach level
ground, and one is now used as a
road.)
OoMGfotesStat ()m rt is Whit-
kirk Churchy in which Smeaton the
engineer is buried ; near it is his old
home, Audhorpe Lodge, and another
^ m. S. Temple Neweam. For all
these places see Bte. 28 — Exc. from
Leeds.)
1 m. beyond Cross Gates, and near
the Mansion Stat, the rly. crosses a
well-defined line of B<mian road,
here called "the Street," and run-
ning N. in the direction of Pampo-
calia (see Bte. 43).
2i
482
ifewte 4i.— Leeds to Selhy—Garfofth
2 m. S. is SwUUngion Ch/u/rchy
early Dee. with a Peorp. tower. The
Rev. £L . BobinMtty the vicar of
Leeds who was ejected in the dajs of
the CoDttncmWealth, is biiriod in the
chancel. He was rector of Swilling-
ton after the Bestoration. From
Garforih Stat,
Church Oarforth, the antiqnary
may visit the singular monnds of
Bartoisk-4n-Elmetey a village which
lies about 3 m. N. The rly. from
Leeds has been passing through the
ancient 'district of E&nete, a name
which seems to have been given in
the earlier Saxon period to the great
tract of wooded country which ex-
tended E. of Leeds as far as Sher-
bum and Tadcaster. The magnificent
elm-trees (from which the name
" Elmete " is said to have been de-
rived), and the rich "greenwood"
which still overshadow the roads and
hill-sides of this district, are sufficient
to prove that the ancient forest here
must have been unusually thick and
stately. The Bomon road of the 5th
and 8th Itinera ran through it,
passing from Castleford (Legiolium)
to Tadcaster (Oalcaria). This road,
still called the "Boman ridge," and
very conroicuous, passed through the
village of Aberford (it forms the main
street of the village) about 2 m. £.
of Barwick.
On the way from Gkurforth to Bar-
wick, the woods and park of Parling-
tmi (Ck)l. F. 0. T. Oascoigne) are
passed rt. The little river Cock,
which rises on Whin Moor N.E. of
Leeds, and at first takes a southerly
course, here winds northward, and
af t<er many twistings passes the battle-
field of Towton, and at last falls into
the Wharfe near Tadcaster. The
village of BanHek stands high. The
ch. (which has been restored) has
some Bee. portions^ fmd in the W.
front are 2 oanopied niches, one con-
taining a figure of Sir Henry Vava-
sour, a benefactor. The tower is
Perp. In the centre of the xSh^
stands a maypde.
The remarkable earth wodc, ho-^-
ever (opposite the ch. W.), is the
great ]fOint of interest at Barwirk.
It consists of a conical mound, knoi^n
as "Hall Tower HiU," It is ahmt
30 ft. high, and covers a base of
about 200 ft diam. The summit ;<
slightly hollow, and has a diara.
of 40 ft. This mound stands in ^
circular ditch, from 6 to 12 ft.
deep ; and the circle is placed withm
a platform of irregular figure, sur-
rounded by a bank of earth which,
to the S., where the platfonn is ir>
ft wide, rises about 8 ft above its
level. Beyond the bank is a ditch.
On the N. side was another larg?
circular area, enclosed within a bank
and ditch, aod called WendM HiU,
This is now very obscure. Traditicio
asserts that this place was a residence
of Edwin x>f Ncxthumbria, who had
certainly conauered Elmete (then
held apparently by a British chief-
tain) before his conversion by Pau-
linus; and the earthworks here aro
so unlike British or Boman that
there seems much reas<m for assign-
ing them to this early Saxon periini
(circ 620). The larger en<uosare
may have contained the buildings in
which the chieftain and his house-
hold lived. The object of the
mound is not so evident " It could
hardly,'' says Mr. Wright, *» be in-
tended for defence, bemuse it was
cut off by strong entrenchments from
the larger enclosure, which was suffi-
ciently strong in itself. It has not
the wpearanoe of having ever sop-
ported ouildings. It was not wanted
as a place for watching the approach
of enemies, for the position of this
stronghold is so bold that yon over-
look the oonntry as well from the
entrenchments below as from the
top of the mound.'' It is possible,
he adds, that it may have serred as
the gathering-place of the ** Thing *
(like the Tynwald hill of Mam and
the green mote-hills of GallowayXthe
Bduie 42,'^Kidd4Xl ffall—Ledsham Church.
48^
^eneraf attaniblf for administering
justiod Bommoned hy iht king cr the
sflldorman. (Compare abo the in-
trencbneols and moumds at Mex-
bonmgh (Bte. 40\ Wincobaak (Bte.
45), and TickhiU (Bte. 47). Some
remarkable banks and ridges (caUed
in one pbice "Beeca banks ") should
be studied in connection with the
Barwick moond, thongh they do not
iinuiediately join it. The^ follow
the N. side of the Cock beck toward
Aberford, and extend again on the
8. side ol the stream in the direction
oi Lotherton. The vilhige ol Aber*
ford haa a ch. dedicated to St Richard,
Bp. of Chichester, who died in 1258.
m VL N. ol Berwick is Kidddl
Haiti long ihe residence of the BUis
family. It is of the 15th cent. The
hall has a canopied sideboard at the
E. end, and a large bay window with
much carving, and an inscription re^
cording Hs oonstitiction by Thomas
Elys and Anne hia wife in IdOl. A
niysterions tramping is constantly
heard through the passages of Kid-
dal Hall, and is laid to the account
of the Cayalier John BUis, who was
killed here by a party of Parliamen-
tary soldiers.]
[Aboat 1^ m. S. of Oarforth IStat.
is LetUUme HaU (T. Broadhead,
Esq.)) for 2 generations the seat of the
Earls Of Huntingdon; it is beauti-
fully situated, overlooking the Vale
of Aire. It is a large mansion of the
time of James I., and once belonged
to Thomas Wentworth, Barl of Straf-
ford.
Ledtham Chnrtk, near Ledstone
Hall, contaana a monument— with
marble effigies of all 3,->-to Lady Elix.
Hastings, daughter of Theophilus
Earl dL Huntingdon, a pious and
benevolent lady^ who died in 1739,
aged 58, and her 2 sisters. The in-
scription is by Barnard, master oi the
grammar-school at Leeds, who wrote
the Idle of Lady Elizabeth. She left
to the clergyman of the parish a series
of instructions as to his conduct, still
affixed to a pillar in the church, and
which, in the words of Whitaker,
" savour of a spirit of lay episcopacy,
to which devout and honourable
women are wont i» addict them-
selves."
1 J m. farther S. is Kippax Varlc,
an Elizabethan mansion, the seat of
J. Bland, Esq., representative of an
ancient family here.]
Beyond Oarforth the line crosses
the Roman road running N. to Aber-
ford and Tadcaster, and soon reaches
MiekUfldd Stat. Here, and
throughout the country ^ist of
Oarforth, the magnesian limestone
is - extensively quarried for bnilding
purposes ; and bevond Micklefield,
N. of the rly., adjoining Muddiest one
HaU, is Huddlestone quarry, stone
from which was used in building the
choir and presbytery of Tork Minster.
(In 1485 tne chapter obtained a lease
of this quarry for 80 years. See Rte.
1, the Mmster, § xv.)
Teazles are nmch grown through-
out **Blmete" for tne use of the
Leeds clothiers.. By fields of them,
and through a varied, pleasing
country, the train reaches the stat. at
Milford JuneL, on the line of the
Oreat Northern Rly. (see Rte. 2).
Thence a brunch line runs by
SelbV Stat, to
Hull TERirnnjs (Rte. 5).
2 1 2
484 BotUe 4:3.— Londm to EartogaU—Towton*
BOUTE 43.
LONDON TO HARROGATE, BT TAD-
CASTER AKD WETHERBY.
For this roate, as far as the Church
FenUmJunet,,8ee Rtes. 1 and 2. From
Church Fenton a branch line of the
North Eastern Rly. runs to Harro-
jjate by Tadcaster and Wetherby.
There are 8 trains daily. The dis-
tance is perfonned in somewhat less
than 1 hour.
From Church Fenton the Harro
gate line diverges N.W., and, after
crossing the Code Beck, skirts Grim
stone Park, and reaches
StvUan Stat From this stat ^or
from that of Church Fenton^ the
battle-field of Towton may be visited.
OrimsUm Pa/rk, between Stutton
Stat, and the Wharfe, was bought
from Lord Londesborongh, m 1872,
by John Fielden, Esq., of Dobroyd
Castle, near Todimorden, at a price
of 240,0001. The Park is bounded
on the N.E. by the river Wharfe,
and is pleasantly varied and wooded.
The vilhtge of Towton lies about
2 m. W. of Stutton, and the battle-
fidd is again about 2 m. S. of the
village, nearer the village of Saxton.
For the battle of Wakefield and the
events which preceded the battle of
Towton, see Bte. 88. On the 28th of
March, 1461, there had been a skir-
mish at Feriybridge on the Aire
(Bte. 2), and Lord Clifford had been
killed a few houra later. (The en-
gagement in which he fell occurred
at Dintingdale, about 1} m. £. of
Saxton village. According to the,
family tradition, his body was flung
into a pit with many others.) The
following day (March 29) the Lan-
castrians, whose main body had ad-
vanced through Tadcaster to Towton,
having failed to defend the passes
of the Aire, were attacked by
Edwaid's forces on the liigfc land
N. of Saxton, and the mat battle
of Towton was fought— the bloodiest
and most fatal fought on Englieh
SOU since Hastings. It was in fact
a battle of extenmnation ; and ocdecs
were given on either side to give no
quarter and to take no primnen.
The fight began during a hea^y fall
of snow, which drove in the faces of
the Lancastrians, who had drawn up
their forces N. of a depression in the
ground called " Towton, Dale^"* which
was thus made to form part of their
defence. The Yorkists were opposite.
The accounts of the engagement arr
very confnsed, but it appean that
Edward at first ordered his arch«^
to shoot a voUey of flight arrows
(those used for great distances) and
to retire a little. The volley was
returned by the Lancastrians, bat
the snow prevented them from cal-
culating the distance, and ttieir ar-
rows f3l short. Fanconbridge, who
commanded Edward's archers in the
van, then ordered them to throw
back their bows and draw their
swords. The armies met, and the
battle became a furious conflict of
personal strength and bravery-^
"sore fought," says Hall, '^for hope
of life was set on side on every part '^
— nntil the Lancastrians finally fled
in the direction of Tadcaster, and
Edward remained victorions. (It is
generally said that the battle lasted
for 10 hours, but one account (pub-
lished by Heame) asserts that it
began at 4 o'clock on ihe evening of
Saturday, March 29, was continued
through the night, and was decided
at noon on the following day (Pahn
Sunday) by the arrival of the Duke
of Norfolk with reinforcements for
Edward.) The loss of life was enor-
mous, even allowing for the (no
donbt) extreme exaggeration which
makes the number ol killed between
30,000 and 40,000. Nearly half the
Lancastrians perished. The Sari of
Northumberland and 6 barons were
killed, and the Earls of Devon and
Routers.— Towlon: The Battle—Saxlon.
485
Wiltshire taken prisoners. The Lau-
eastrian Lord Dacre was shot, eajrs
tradition, in a field called the " Nor
(north) Acres," by a boy out of a
"bur-tree" (elder-tree). Hence the
local rhyme : —
« The Lord of Dftcres
Wm aUin in the North Acres.*'
The Dokes of Somerset and Exeter
escaped to York, where Heniy and
Margaret received the fatal tidings
and retreated at once into Scotland.
Edward himself advanced to Tork,
where the Earls of Dover and Wilt-
shire were beheaded, and their heads
placed above Micklegate Bar in place
of those of Edward^s father, the
Duke of York, killed at Wakefield
(Bte. 88), and ol his supporters. (By
far the most minute and accurate
account of Towton Field wiU be
found in Brookes » Visits to Fields of
Battle in England of the 15th Cen-
tury.' London, 1857.)
The field of battle is a tract of toler-
ably levd ground, rising gently from
the village of Saxton, and sloping (or
rather terminating in broken ground)
W. toward the river Cock, which
winds round it. The fight no doubt
extended over the whole ground be-
tween Saxton and Towton ; but the
main battle took place in what is
now a hurge meadow near Towton
Dale Quarry, about i m. S. of Tow-
ton village. The grave-mounds, to-
ward the southern end, indicate the
scene of the hardest and closest
struggle. A thicket of wild roses,
white and red, is growing in the
meadow, perhaps planted as a me-
morifid after the battle, but more
probably the work of Nature herself
— impartial alike to York and Lan-
caster. The meadow itself is some-
times called the Bloody Meadow, and
is remarkable for producing rich
rank grass. A mound, possibly of
British orig^, crests the bank above
the river, which, at the time of the
battle, was swollen by wintry rains
and snow. The Lancastriai|s are
said to have retreated in order until
they reached the river, to which they
descended by a very steep road be-
yond Towton Hall. The steepness
of this road, and the conseauent
crush of men, disorganized them.
They broke and fled on all sides.
So many perished in the water, that
the rest crossed on the bodies of their
comrades. The scene of this battle
in Shakspeare's < Henry VI.' (Ft. II.
act ii. sc. 8) is altogether unhistorical.
Clifford was killed before the fight
at Towton, and nearer Ferrybridge.
Hen. VI. was at York.
The village of Saxton partly occu-
pies the site of a large square Boman
camp. The ditch on the W. side is
now a pnblic road. A great number
of those killed in the battle were
buried in a bi^e trench on the N.
side of Saxton Uhnrch ; and in 1848,
during the construction of a vault,
their remains were exposed. Outside
the ch. (which has a Norm, portal
and some E.E. portions, but is of
small architectural interest) is the
monument of Lord Bacre, who fell
here, a plain altar-tomb, vnth much-
defaced inscription. Others of the
leaders are said to have been buried
here, but there are no memorials of
them.
Many relics have been found from
time to time on the battle-field. In
the Duke of Northumberland's mu-
seum at Alnwick is a battle-axe with
handle of black oak, found in the
bed of the river, and long used by
the wife of the miller who found it,
for '' breaking sugar.'*
(On high ground opposite Towton,
2^ m. from Stutton, and nearly 4
from Tadcaster, is Htudwood HaU,
the ancient seat of the Vavasours. A
part of the house is old, but the
chapel, which was once the parish
ch., and contains some monuments
of the Vavasours, is the most in-
teresting portion of it. The view
from Sa^elwQod is vexy extensive,
486
Route iS.-—Tadeaster.
and both York and Lincoln cathedrals,
60 in. apart, can (it is said) be seen
froiii it It was from their manor
here that the Vayasouxs contributed
the stone of which great part of York
Minster is built (t&e Bte. 1, Mifuter,
§§ 9 and 29). Theur most ancient
quany is that known as Jackdaw''*
Crag, or Thieceidale (the latter name
is significant, and indicates that
'* broken men " may hare often found
good shelter within its recesses), about
I in. W of the Stntton Stat. It was
pn)bablj from this place, which is
interesting and beautiful, and well
deserves a visit, that the Romans
procured the magnestan limestone
for their buildings at Galcaria (Tad-
caster) about 2 m. distant. The
moimds of various sizes, made by
working the rock, give the ^ole
quarry the appearance of mountain
country in miniature
From Stutton a mn of 3 m. brings
the train to
Tadcagter Stat (Inn: Londes-
borough Anns). P. H. Tadcaster is
now a small and uninteresting town of
about 3000 Inhab. In posting days,
when the main road from Leeds to
York ran through it, it was a place of
considerable bustle ; and the Soman
stat. Galcaria (on the site of which
the existing town is built) here com-
manded the chief and lowest passa^
of the Wharfe. The tide flows to
within a short distance below the
town, and the Boman road of the
2nd, 5th, and 8th Itineraries crossed
the river at Calcaiia on its way to
York. (Another road diverged from
this line shortly before reaching
Tadcasten and, crossing the Wharfe
at St Helen's ford higher up, pro-
ceeded to Isurium (Aldborough). No
Eoman remains exist at present in
Tadcaster, although numerous coins
and other relics have been discovered
here; but jf m. below the town, a
few yards above the confluence of the
little river Oock with the Wharfe, is
a small bridge {Keitleman*B Bridge)
of 1 aich (over the Cock), which liu^
been considered Roman. *' The arrb
is constructed without a keystone, and
springs from square pier walls. The
blocks of stone are neatly sqoared.
about twice as large as in the wall of
Eboracum ; on several are the mason
marks. The parapets, are modem.
The arch has yielded a little upwards.
so as to be rather elliptical." — PhWi^t^.
It seems very doubtful, howv^^r.
whether such antiquity can he
claimed for this bridge, and Mr.
Brooke C English Battle-fielda of the
15th Century,' TowUm) has pcnnt^
out that similar bridges are not un-
common in some parts of YorlEshire,
and are not venr ancient A track
leading to this bridge from the S. is
called the "^ Old Street"
The Roman Castmm gave its name
to the <* Eaelca oaestir*" of Bede, the
Anglian or Danish ^ Tadcaster."
There was a medissviJ castle at
Tadcaster, from the ruins oC wbirh
the bridge over the Wharfe was built
early in the last cent. Daring the
Ci^ War, Fairfax, with only 9(H»
men, was attacked here by the' Mar-
quis of Newcastle with 4000. The
struggle lasted all day, and at night-
fall luirf ax drew off toward Selby
The Perp. C%ure/» of St Mwr i-^
the only building of interest in Tad-
caster, and the tourist need banUy
delay his journey to visit it It U
throughout of late character, witli
square -headed windows in the nsvc
and clerestory. It was restored 1877.
A monastery was founded, accord-
ing to Bede (H £., iv. 83). »r
<' Kaelcacaestir '* (no donbt Tidci$-
ter), by a certain Heiu, who, he tell^
us, was the first womui who coa«r-
crated herself to a monastic life in
NcHTthuinbria.
The village of SeaitMgh^ aHftt
8 m. N. of Tadcaster, is believed i'
mark the site of St Heiu's foQndatif<«.
and possibly preserves her name-
"Hein-lseg"— "Heiu's territ<?n'
Boute 48. — Neteion Kyme — BnmAam Park.
487
There are remains of ajicient founda-
tions N.W. of the ch/, and a very
early tomb-slab, with a cross marked
on it (the head formed bj 5 circles),
and a name, ^'Madug," was found
here. The churches of Healangh
and of Wi^ill, 1 m. W., have Norm,
portions. Healangh Manor, 1 m. S.
of the ch., occupies the site of a
priory of Augustinian canons, found-
ed in 1218 by Jordan de St. Maria
and Alice his wife.
Leaving Tadeaster, the village of
Newton Kyme, with a picturesque old
cb. and the remains of a castle, is
passed ri A fine avenue of trees leads
to Newton HdU (W. Wickham Wick-
ham, Bsq., belonging to Col. Fairfax).
The house, faced with a Corinthian
colonnade, contains some interesting
fairfax portraits. The rly. then
cnrosses the Wharfe. (A little above
the rly. bridge is St. Helen's Ford,
by which the Roman road, here called
Bndgate (compare the Budstone near
Bridnngton, Rte. 13), crossed. Here,
in Ldand's time, stood St. Helen's
ChapeL This has now disappeared,
but its site is indicated by a range
of rock, close to the river, in which,
in a hollowed recess, 8t, Heleti's
Well still exists and is still vener-
ated, as the shreds and scraps of
linen hung on the surrounding
bushes sufficiently attest. This
" well-worship " was formerly com-
mon throughout the northern coun-
ties, and still flourishes in Ireland.
(The St. Helen here commemorated is
of course the Empress Helena, the
mother of Constantine.)
At Hiorp Arch, the next Stat, we
reach a very picturesque part of the
river, which here flows under steep
limestone clifis. The ch. of Thorpe
Arch has Norm, portions. On l^e B.
bank of the Wharfe, 1 m. from the
stat. (an omnibus meets the trains),
is the village of Botton, where is a
iSpa of some pretensions. (SpaSaydl
HoteUAox^e and scrambling— once
a great posting -house, and much
frequented by foxhunters. There
are large gardens.) The neighbour-
hood is very pleasant, and contains
many place of interest. Lodgings
(in tne long village street which lies
on the high road between Wetherly
and Tadcaitter) are plenty, and the
quiet and accommodation of the
place make Boston a good centre for
2 or 3 days* It is about half an
hour's distance by rail from Harro-
gate, and all tiie places mentioned
in this route are readily accessible in
the same manner.
BoeUm Spa (saline) was discovered
in 1744. There is a pump-room,
with hot and cold baths. The ch.
here is modern. There is . much
wood round Boston, and very plea-
sant- walks around the Wharfe. From
Jackdaw Crag there is a very pic-
turesque view across a bend of tlie
river. Boats may be hired at the Spa
house for excursions or Ashing. The
fish, not very abundant, are trout, grav-
ling, and pike. It is posdble to take
a Iwat about 1 m« down tiie stream.
About 2 m. from Boston is Bram-
ham, passing by Clifford. The ch.
at Clifford is modem, and there are
here a Roman Catholic chapel (the
architecture of which is far better
than that of the Anglican eh.) and a
nunnenr. Outside the village are 2
large flax-mills. Bramkam Church
has a Norm, tower, but is of no very
greet interest.
Bramham Park (Qeorge Lane Fox,
Esq.) lies 1 m. S. ex the village. For
seeing the gardens and grounds an
order is required either from Mr.
Lane Fox, or from his agent in the
vilkge of Bramham. Pedestrians
may enter the park by the Lodge of
the CdUme — a large school, with
modem Tudor buildings — and then,
keeping along the wiul (not enter-
ing the College gates), the park is
reached. Make direct for the house,
which is not habitable. It was
488 Boute iS.—Bardsey Church— Kirk Deighton.
large and important, and was built
hy Lord Binglej in the reign of
Qaeen Anne, wno shcnrtly after its
completion honoured the mansion
with a visit. Bramham, however, was
greatly injured by fire a few years ago,
and since that time the house has not
been restored; but the gardens and
grounds are well kept up, and are
very excellent examples of old French
taste, with tall hedges, alU'es vertes,
and eabinets de verdure. The park
contains about 2000 acres; the
gardens and dreraed grounds, 120.
The long vistas throuffh avenues
and all^ are wonderfuUy fine and
picturesQue, and the place altogether
is one of the grandest in Yorkdiire.
The park is weU varied, and con-
tains an avenue of enonnous beeches,
known aa Lord Bingley*s Walk, and
leading to an enclosure of about
400 acres (within the park), called
Blaekfen. Here 12 avenues of noble
trees diverge from an obelisk in the
centre. In the park are the kennels
of the Bramham Hunt. A branch
Roman road crosses the park, but (as
will be seen by a reference to Uie
Ordnance map) all this country is
full of ancient roads, of Roman adop-
tion if not of Raman origin, which
fall into the main *< streets " passing
through Tadcaster to York, or from
Tadcaster to Bkley (Olicana). One
of these roads, leaving the village of
Bramham in a direction nearly doe
W., points towards Bardsey (SJ m.
distant); a little S. of which (near
Scarcroft Mill) is the probable site
of a small Roman stat mentioned
only by the geographer of Ravenna
as PompoooZt. This very name, in
the shape of " Pampycallo ^ is aaid
to have oeen retained to the present
day. At any rate, numerous Roman
relics have heea found in the neigh-
bourhood. Near Scarcroft Old HaU is
asmall Roman camp, and at Scarcroft
Mill are considerable earthworks on
the summit of a steep, rocky bank,
washed at the foot by a stream that
flows northward towards the Wharfe. |
Bardeey Churchj chiefly Nonn., de-
serves a visit. There is an enriched
Norm. p<»tal, and the ehaftr.<^l artk
and N. nave arcade are Nomu The
S. arcade is Traxis. - Norm. The
tower also is partly of this date. N.
of the village is a mound called
Castle- Hill, with a large earthwink
peculiar in form, and perhaps maik-
mg the site of the stronghold of
tiie Saxon Lord of Bardsey. Soon
after the Ck)nquest, Bardsey pased
to the MowbrajTB, and was granted
by them to the monks of Kirk-
stall.
At Bardsey Grange WOUam Cm-
greve the dramatist was bom in 1672.
The house was then the residenee oi
his mother's uncle. His birth here
is duly recorded in the register.
Harewood Park (Bte. 29) is rather
more than 3 m. from Bardsey. Hie
walk is rather pleasant
WeOierhy Stat. Here is little to
delay the tourist It is an important
agricultural market -town, with a good
Bridge over the Wharfe, from which
the view is very nictnresqne, and is
one of the many places on the main
northern roads which have lost the'ir
importance since the introduction of
railways. The church was built 1840,
and enlarged 1877-80. Fxtun Weth-
erby the famous CowQyorpe Oak mar
best be visited ; and the 3 miles*
walk or drive between the Wharfe
and the Nidd (near which the oak
stands) is well worth undertaking for
a sight of which is generallr allowed
to be the largest oak in Englaad.
1. of the road to Cowthorpe, about
1 UL from Wetherby Station, is the
viUage of Kirk Deighien^ where the
Church deserves a visit It has
Norm. (N. side of nave) and K. E.
(S. of nave) portions, and a very fine
Ferp. tower. At the end of the N.
nave-aisle is a wooden tablet, with
the Ten Commandments in an earlier
version than that of 1603. On one
side are the arms of Boos; on the
Boute is.— The Cotothorpe Oak.
489
other some elaborate nuurshallings.
Below each shield is a landscape.
The date is 1576, and the tablet is
supposed to have been given by the
Xord Boos of that date as a thank-
offering of his safe return from
France, the landscapes representing
scenes in which he took part during
the Tonmay and Therouenne expe-
dition. The whole must, however,
have been repainted. The rnde
woodwork of tne S. porch-door de-
serves notice. In the vicarage garden
is a venr remarkable cherry-troe, the
girth of which, at 1 ft from the
ground, is 14 ft ; the height of
the tree is 76 ft. The growth is
very graceful and regular, and in
spring the tree is a perfect hill of
snowy blossoms. It is a small black
cheny, something like the Hamp-
shire '* merry." The tree is well
seen from the ch.-yd.
Bt of the road to Cowthorpe,
Ingmanihorpe HaU ( — Montague,
Esq.) is passed. Mr. Montiunie
is the proprietor of the venerable
Cowthorpe Oak, the age of which
has been estimated by Prof. Burnett
at 1600 years. It stands on a croft
adjoining a farmhouse near Cow-
thorpe Church, and its true measure-
ments are — circumference at 5 ft.
from the ground, 36 ft. 3 in. ; close
to the ground, 60 ft. ; extent of the
principid branch, 50 ft. 6 in. ; girth
close to the trunk, 10 ft. ; height of
tree, including decayed wood, 43 ft ;
height of vigorous wood, 33 ft 6 in.
The tree contained 73 tons of tunber,
and the diameter of its hollow close
to the ground is 11 ft The trunk is
quite hollow, but the branches, the
largest of which are supported by
wooden props, still cover much
ground and bear much foliage. The
top branch (leader ?) fell about 180
years since. In 1718 a branch fell
which extended 90 ft. from the
trunk, and contained 5 tons and 2 ft.
of wood. Before this fall, the oak
extended its sh^de over hiUf an acre.
In 1772 a branch fell which was 80
ft. in length, and was foimd to contain
upwards of 5 tons of timber. The
height of the tree in 1776 was 85 ft.
Mr. Montague possesses a table made
from the wood of a fallen portion;
and the box in which the freedom of
the city of York was presented to Lord
Brougham was made of Cowthorpe
oak. The soil in which the tree
stands is a deep, rich, light loam,
resting on fine clay. The tree is
engraved in Hunters edition of
£velyn*s *Sylva.' The circle occu-
pied by the oak, where the bottom
of its trunk meets the earth, exceeds
the ground-plot of the Eddystone
lighthouse, which was confessedly
based on the growth and proportion of
an oak-tree stem. There was a good
brats in Cowthorpe Church, the Perp.
tower of which is built into the nave,
and near the altar is a carved struc-
ture of oak, supposed to be an Easter
tepuiehrel
The pedestrian should cross the
Nidd (which is here close at hand),
and visit Hunsingore Ch., the spire
of which will serve as a euide. On
the 1. bank of the river (close to the
bridge by which he will cross), is a
large earthwork called the " Cfastle.*'
It consists of an oblong mound of
some height and length, having one
portion toward the E., higher thui
the rest, and on this is a squared
enclosure. A deep hollow E. of the
mound leads up to the village of
Helsingore. The mound, like so
many in Yorkshire, may very likely
be of Saxon date, but some stone
building seems to have been raised
on it Its history has yet to be
traced. Huntvngore Churchy beyond
(Kirk, of Sleaford, architect), is of
very good early Dec character, with
an apse, and a western tower and
spire. The stained windows are by
Ward and Hughes, Church and vi-
carage were built at the cost of
J. D. Bent, Esq., of Bibston HaU,
which lies about 1 m. £.
490
Bmte i.i:.~Euddertfield to Sheffield.
The stttt. beyond Wetherby is
Sptffortk, formerly one of the most
ancient possessions of tlie Percys in
Yorkshire. It was granted to Williain
de Percy by the (S)nqneror, and the
chief Percy residences in the county
were here, at Topcliff, Wressel, and
at Leconileld. There are consider-
able remains of Spoforth Castle, at
the end of the ▼iUage farthest from
the Stat. Henry de Percy obtained
a licence to erenellate in 1309 (2nd
Edw. II.). Th& plan is a parallelo-
gram with the hidl in the centre.
The castle, with other Percy posses-
sions, was forfeited to the Crown
after the rising of the Ist Earl of
Northumberland fligainst Henry IV.,
and his defeat on Bramham Moor
(1408). It soon, however, was re-
stored to the Percys, but was defaced
by the Earl of Warwick and Lord
Montacute after the battle of Towton
(1462), in which 2 of the Percys were
killed. It was afterwards repaired,
and w^as finally dismantled m the
time of the CJommonwealth. The
ruins are of 3 periods. The lower
room under the hall is Tran8.-Norm,
of the end of the 12th cent. A
building opening from the S. end of
this Norm, room, containing the
kitchen, a vaulted chamber between
it and the hall, and a solar over
it, is of the 14th cent, as the
hall itself evidently was originally,
but this was destroyed and rebuilt
in the 15th cent. The remaining
buildings form one side of a quad-
rangle, the other ^ides of which may
be traced by remaining fragments.
It is now the property of Lord
Leconfield, lord of the manor.
The Church of Spofforth, Perp.,
rebuilt except the Tower, 1855,
possessed a chancel until it was
pulled down by the rector (on whom
the char^ of repairing it fell), in
spite of vigorous remonstrance. The
rectorv of Spofforth is in the gift of
Lord Leconfield, and is worth 1500^.
a year. In the ch. is a memorial for
"Blind Jack of Knaresboroagh " (see
Rte. 20)^ who died in the parish.
There is noUiing calling for notice
between Spofforth and
HarrogaU Stat. (See Rte. 20.)
ROUTE 44.
HUDDERSFIELD TO SHEFFIELD, BY
PENISTONE AND WORTLEY.
(Lancashire aiid Torhsh. Bly. — 5
trains daily. The line between
Huddersfield and SheflSeld is traven>ed
in about IJ hour.)
Passing through the long tunnel
(see Rte. 37) which begins at the
Huddersfield Stat., and crossing the
Lockwood viaduct, the prettv valley
of the Colne is seen rt. before the
train reaches the
Loohwood Stat From the next,
Berry Brow Stat., the camp or
"Castle Hill" at Almondbury i<
easily reached (Rte. 37). At
flbnfoy Stat., Honley Ch. and vil-
lage are seen rt (BcotgoOe Bead,
in the parish of Honley, is pointet)
out by tradition as the furtiiest point
reached by Charles Edward at the
head of the Highlanders in 1745. It
need hardly be said, however, that
the Prince really advanced as far as
Derby. But aU this district \w5
thrown into great confusion at that
Boute. 44. — Hcimfirth -^Penistone,
491
tiuic, and it is possible that some
halt of the Scottish troops may have
taken place here.) The tower on
the hill in front is '' Cook's Stady,**
a modem bailding of no interest
Famlej spire rises abore the wooded
hill 1., and soon the train reaches
Brockhdles^niet [Bt., up the very
pretty wooded valley of the Holme,
a short branch line nms to Holmfirth,
with a Stat, halfway at Tkang^mdije.
The valley is fnll of cloth^miUs and
'^clothing*' Tillages. (At MeUham,
2 m. W. of Thongsbridge, are the
large linen and. thr«id manufactories
<^ Messrs. BiooIl They are probably
the most extensive thread factories
in the world.)
Holmfirthf a large maaufacturiug
village high up in the valley, is
l>est known as the scene of the ter-
rible catastrophe of the 5th of Feb-
ruary, 1852. About 1 o'clock on the
morning of that day the Bilberry
reservoir, in the hills nearly 3 m.
above the village, burst its embank-
ments, and 80,248,000 gallons of
water, amounting in weight to about
»00,000 tons, rolled down the valley,
canying everything before it. The
chimney of Dlgley mill was the only
one left standing in the valley.
SI persons perished, property to the
valne of nearly 200,0002. was de-
stroyed, and 7000 hands were thrown
out of employment. A subscription
was at once opened for the relief of
the sufferers, and 70,0002. was col-
lected, the greater part from the im-
mediate neighbourhood. Such great
reservoirs are formed in the hills aU
along the S. border of Yorkshire,
partly for the service of the mills in
the valleys, and peitly for the watef-
snpply of the gr^ towns. The
banting of the Holmfirth reservoir is
by no means a solitary accident ; that
which occurred in Sheffield in 1864
was far more -serious. (See jMwt.)
The scenery of the Holmfirth val-
ley is very picturesque. It becomes
wilder above the village, where the
stream descends from Holme Moss
(1859 ft), a continuation of Stanedge.
The Yorkshire border is carried along
its summit.]
There is little to notice between
Brockhoks Junct. and Penistone.
There are stats, at Stodnnoor, at
Shepley^ and at Detiby Dabs. At
Sh^ley the country becomes barer
and less intereeting. At Denby
Dale a high and long viaduct u
crossed, commanding a rather pretty
view up and down the dale. Be-
yond it, a wide view extends north-
ward, over broken ground.
£)nter the Manchester, Sheffield,
and Line Bly.
PenigtoM Junct. Stat, is a large
village with steel- works of Gammell
and Co ; the cloth-mills and tnule are
gone. (The cattle market here is the
most hnportaat in the district) It
stands high and bleak, in a country
of no great interest It has, how-
ever, a Church (restored in 1868)
which well deserves a visit. The
nave is Dec., with arches of which
the deep mouldings descend on the
caps of the piers in an unusual man-
ner. All is plain, owing to the
extreme hardness of the tocal grit-
stone of which the ch. is buUt, but
a very striking effect is produced by
these deeply cut mouldmgs. The
W. tower arch, of similar character,
fine and lofty, was opened to the
ch. during the restoratbn. The
roof is Feip., very good panelled
oak, with richly carved bosses and
brackets. The aisle windows are
triangular - headed, with simple
tracery. The E. window, early Dec,
with plain intersecting tracery, de-
scends unusually low, and is filled
with modem stained glass. TheW.
tower is lofty, of Dec. character, and
at once excites attention on entering
the viUage. The W. door has a
double hollow moulding, with leaf
ornaments inserted at intervals. It
492
Bauie 44. — Penistone,
contains monuments to the Bosrilles
of Gunthwaite, and to Wm. Fenton,
mnrdered in Soain, 1855.
In the parian of Penistone (which
is a very extensive one, reach-
ing to the Derhvshire bonier) the
ancestors of William Wordsworth
resided (probably as small sub-
holders) from a very early period,
until, in the last century, tiie poet's
grandfather passed into Westmore-
land. Various *' Wordsworths " ap-
pear on different occasions m
transactions personal and public
connected with the parish of Peni-
stone: and it was for one of them
that the carved almery at Bydal
Mount was made in 1525.
Among the bare hills, neither pic-
turesque nor attractive, which ex-
tend S. of Penistone, are two remark-
able intrenehments, marked as
** camps" on the Ordnance Survey,
but of similar character with the
earthworks at Thomborough near
Ripon (Bte. 22). They are circular,
with an external ditch, and with
openings opposite each other N. and
S. The circumference is about 900
ft This range of high moorland —
the extreme eastern portion of the
so - called ** Pennine^' chain — the
** backbone of England,*' gives birth
to the Biver Don (as it is usually
named on modem maps. Camden
calls it Dan and Dane; and Phillips
('Mountains and Sea Coast of York-
shire*) insists that Dun is the true
form. It is at any rate so pronounced
in the district ^trough which it
flows). The etymology is not clear,
though Danube, Dan, or Tanais, and
Eridanus, or Po, are no uncertain
cousins of the Yorkshire stream.
" Ultimately we may probablv refer
Don to the coniectural Sanscnt word
ttdan, water, which contains the root
«fuf, to wet Hence the Latin
nnda.'*-^Taylar. The Etherow, run-
ning through Cheshire, and the
Wronffdey, a branch of the Derby-
shire Derwent, rise on the same
watershed, but take di|fcrent courses.
The Don itself has a double sonrce,
the Don and the little Don, both
rising in Penistone pariah, and imit-
ing a little below Wordey. At Peni-
stone the river is not ver^ attractiTe.
but its banks become stnking as we
descend.
[From Penistone Junct the rlr.
passes rt to Manchester, and 1. to
bunsley.
(a) The Manchetier line crosses
the valley behind Penistoae Ch. by a
viaduct, and has stats, at HatUkead
Bridge and Dunford Bridge before it
passes out of Yorkshire. On ihs
moorhmd near Dunford Bridge (the
** bridge ** is thrown across the head-
waters of the Don or Dun) Lonl
Fitzwilliam has a shooting - lodge.
Immediately beyond the latter stat
the rly. passes into Lancadiire
through a tunnel in the ^ Pennine"
chain, said to be the longest in Qrcat
Britain. It measures 3 miles and 20
yards. The one side of it for a single
line of rails took 7 years (18^
1845) to complete, and cost 200,0001
It has 5 vertical shafts, the highest
579 ft. deep, and the whole length,
excepting about 1000 yards, is Imed
with masonry. The rock throng^
which it passes is hard millstone-
grit. (For the rly. beyond, to Man-
chester, see Handbook for Xoimu*
sfttre.)
Q>) The short Bamdey line of 7}
m. has stats, at Silkstone and Dod-
worth, and passes through one of the
richest coal-fields in ^gland. The
coal, which is raised in lul directions
about Silkstone, belongs to the
"ironstone coal** of the ^Middle
Coal Section.** (The h'onstone coals
belong to the lowest beds of Ifiddle
Coals, and rest on flagstone rock (such
as that of EUand, Rte. 39), dividing
the Middle from the Lower Coals.
The hist rest on millstone-grit.) The
scenerv throughout this dntrict is of
great beauty. Wide vajleys, in which
Bouie U.—Sak$i(me: Chutch.
493
oaks grow to a oonBidaable siie, lie
between ranges of low hills, richly
cultivated, contrasting sharply with
the limestone districts of the W., and
the sandstone of N.E. Yorkshire.
Taking these as the 2 most pic-
turesque districts of the county, this
tract, lying between Banisley and
Sheffield, stands next to them, and
offers a third, and yeiy distinct, class
of scenery. Turner represents the
limestone cliffs of Swale and Wharfe.
The beautiful moors and valleys of
Cleveland have yet perhaps to find
their artist ; but this old forest coun-
try is the stronghold of Creswick,
who was bom at Sheffield, and
whose pictures faithfully reproduce
the oaks and beeches of his native
district.
SiXkdone Stat, is about 1 m. from
the village, which is seen in the
valley below. The ch. tower is
a good guide, and the ch. itself is
weU worth visiting. There are lar[^
CoUieries between the stat. and the
village, which is mainly occupied by
men who work in them. In spite of
this, however, the country here is
very pretty, and much wooded. In
descending the hill from the stat.
the woods of Cannon HaU (W. J. W.
Spencer Stanhope, Esq.^ are seen
opposite. In the hall is kept a bow
called << Little John's," which has
been preserved at Cannon Hall for
170 years, and was formerly at
Hathersage Hall in Derbyshire, one
of the owners of which place suc-
ceeded to the estate at Cannon HaU.
(There is a tradition that Little John
was buried at Hathersage.) It re-
quires a power of 160 lbs. to draw the
bow to its full — only 60 lbs. is the
power used by men at present at
archery meetings. On the bow is
the date 1715, and the name of
Colonel Naylor, who in that year
strung, and shot a deer with it. It
has never been strung since.
Silkstone Church (All Saints) has
a late Dee. nave, and_8ome Norm.
wcnk in the chancel, part of which
was rebuilt by iSStiZvtfi, under whose
direction the whole ch. was restored.
The nave piers and arches are late
Dec., and have above them a clere-
story of small square-headed lights.
(Remark the bases of the piers, which
vary.) The tower arch has been
opened, and the capitals of its piers
have ornaments like those on the W
door of Fenistone. The aisle windows
are sharply pointed, with 3 lights in
each ; foliated, but without tracery.
The timber roofs of nave and aisles
are Perp. and very good, with bosses
of carving. The piers of the chancel
arch are perhaps Norm. (The arch
they carry is Dec like the others.)
On the a, side of the chancel is a
Norm, arch, under which the organ
is now placed. On the S. side, with
Perp. arches opening to it, is a
chantry now belonging to the Beau-
monts of Bretton, and formerly to the
Wentworths of the same place. It
contains a fine monument, with
effigies in white marble, of Sir
Thomas Wentworth and lady, a
faithful follower of Charles L, 1675.
There is some good modem glass by
(^Connor in the £. and W. windows.
The ch. also contains a memorial
tablet for Joseph Bramo/*, the well-
known mechanician, and the in-
ventor of the famous lock, who was
bom on a farm of the Earl of Straf-
ford's, in this parish, and died Dec.
1814. On the exterior of the ch.
each bay is divided by a buttress
pierced at the top by a gurffoyle (as
m the E. transept of York Amster,
Bte. 1), and having a small half -arch
below. These mark the very late
Dec., almost Perp., character of the
work. Two gurgoyles on the N.
side, representing a friar and a pil-
grim, with a collar of shells, are
curious. The tower is Perp. and
fine. The ch. of Silkstone, which
was originally of Saxon foundation,
and is no doubt the mother ch.
of aU this district, was given soon
after the Conquest by Swein Fitz<
494
Boute 4A.~Wortley Hallr—Wkcemdiffe.
Ailifio to the Cluniac monks of Ponte-
fract, in whose hands it continned
until the Dissolution. Darton Ch.
(between Bamsley and Wakefield) is
of the same ffeneral character. as the
churches of Silkstone and Fenistone,
which resemble each other. The 3
form a verj distinct group.
(A rly., only used for the convej^
ance of - coal, runs from Silkstone to
the line between Bamsley and Wake-
field. Another line, ^'the Darley
Main and Old Silkstone Branch,"
connects Silkstone with the Sout^
Yorkshire Bly. between Bamsley and
Mexborough,)
Passing the stat. at Dodioorth (a
large vilJage rt.), the train soon
reaches BarwHey (see Bte. 40).]
After leaving Fenistone, the rly.
grosses the main stream of the. Don,
the banks of which become rocky
and picturesque as it makes a sweep
rt. of the line, opposite Thurgo-
land, a village surrounded by col-
lieries, and having a considerable
manufacture of iron wire. Beyond is
WorOejf Stat. On the hill, L, is
the ch. and village of WortleUy where
are collieries, iron and Steel works.
50 cottagers enjoy under Lord Wham-
cliffe about a rood of land, rent free,
each. Small premiums are given
annually to those whose houses are
cleanest, and whose land is best
cultivated. The Ohurek contains a
monument by JPlaxman.
WarOev Ball (Earl of Wharacliffe),
near the village, is a modem Italian
mansion, containing a few family
portmits, including those of Lady
Mary Wortley Montagu, her husband,
and son, in a Turkish dress ; 4 pic-
tures representing their reception by
the SUtan ; portraits of the 1st and
2nd Lord Sandwich, and of Lord
Cardiff (a Bnte title), by BeyncUds,
The house is charmingly situated in
a fine park, and the pleasure grounds
and gardens attached are in high
condition. The lordship of Wortl^
has been in the hands of a fomilT el
the same name from the period of tbs
Oonquest to the present tme.
Beyond Womey the line cnt«n
Lord Whamcliffe*s picturesque woods,,
through which it is carried for about
4 m. (The woods, which contiii
Whamdiffe Crags and the *'■ Dragoo'i
Ben" (see post) are open to tte
public on Mondays, Wednesdays, ani I
Satordavs. Ther are accessible frDm
either Wortley, t)eep Car, or Ooghtr
Bridge stats.' A long day may be
spent in them with great delight, or
tney may be walked through (a dts- '
tance of 4 or 5 miles) from Wortler i
to Oughty Bridge, or in the opposite'
direction. The most striking 8cea«T
(at the Lodge and the Bragoas Den)
is near the Oughty Bridge end.)
The valley of the Don, seen rt. <^
the line, is here very picturesque. At
Deep Car Stat are chemical WTork5
and numerous coke-ovens, which ar?
supplied with a poor coal raised in the
neighbourhood. The coke is sent U^
Sheffield for the use of the cutlers.
Opposite Deep Car the noble woods ii
Wharncliff e sweep down to the umrgin
of the river, which Is here joined by
the little Don (see ante)*
Oughty Bridge Stat, is 1^ m. froin
Whamcliffe Ledge, a pleasant walk,
crossing the bridge and descending
by a road through the wood.
Whamcliffli is a grand wild chasf .
extending ah>ng ttie steep rockj
ridge that here rises from the L
bank of the Don. It abounds in
deer, and among its woods are a few
venerable oaks of great size and
antiquity. On a high point toward
the £. end, overiookmg the vaUer <^
the Don, Whameliffe Lodge wa^
built in 1510 by Sir Thomas Wortler.
as an inscription once to be read on
a krge stone close to the lodge (it is
now illegible) testifies. ThiB laa.
'' Pray for the saule of Thomas Wxrt-
teUiy Knight for the kyngya bode' to
BotUeU.—Whamdiffe: The Dragon's Den.
495
Edwazd the forthe Bychard tiierd
Hare the VII. and Haie YIIL hows
saules Ood perdon wyche Thomas
cawsyd a loge to he made hon this
crag ne mTdys of Wandife for his
plesor to her the hartes hel in the
yere of onr Lord a thousand cccc. x.'*
Sir Thomas, according to an ancient
acconnt of the Wortleys, '' was mnch
given to showtinge in the longe
liowe," and *^had mnch delite in
huntinge." His hounds were so
famous that the ''king of Scots'"
desired to have some of the breed.
At the lodge he built in Whamcliffe
Chase '' he did lye for the most part
of the grease tyme ; and the worship-
ful of the country dyd ther resorte
unto hime, havinge ther with hune
pastime and good cheare." A curious
local tradition asserts that Sir Thomas
destroyed a village for the sake of
improving his "chase" between
Whamcliffe and Penistone ; and that
as a punishment he became dis-
tracted before he died, and " belled "
(bellowed) like a stag. The lodge
was considerably enlarged at a later
period, and Lady Mary WorUey Mon-
tagu lived in it for some time after
her marriage. (It is sometimes as-
serted tiiat her eccentric son was
bom here ; but this is incorrect See
Hunter's 8, YoHahire, ii. p. 321.)
Many of her early letters are dated
from this lodge ; and long afterwards,
when describing the magnificent view
which stretches away from the Palace
of the Popes at Avignon, she wrote
of it as "the most beanttful land
prospect I ever saw, except Wham-
cliffe." The best point of view is from
a sort of natural terrace extending
along the top of the hilL From
the '' table-rock " on this terrace,
the eye ranges over an expanse of
foliage and tree-tops (chiefly oaks,
which grow here like weeds) across
the vale of the Don — ^here . little
more than a jnouptain toixent, andjiot
as yet the " gnlphie I>on " of Milton
—backed by round, billowy moun-
tains. Under special lights, when
** The Sim o'er purple noorUnd wMe
Gilds Wharncliffe'6 wood, while Don Is dark
- below "— Jt'IW—
this scene is very fine and striking:.
Eastward the towers of York and
Lincoln are said to he visible in clear
weather.
The terrace extends along the
rocks kno^-n as Whamcliffe Crags,
and below it is the Den of the famous
"Dragon of Wantley" (Wantley is
a cormption of Wharndiffe), to whom
** Houses and churches
Wore as geese and tnrkeya ;
He ate all, and left none behind—
Save mme atones, dear Jack, wfaleh he could
not crack.
Which on the hUl you will find"
**01d Wortley Montagu,*' wrote
Walpole, ** lives on the very spot
where the Dragon of Wantley did,
only I believe the latter was 'much
better lodged."
The Dragon'ft Dm, as it is called,
is a shallow recess in the rocks, be-
neath the terrace, about 2 yards deep
and 4 long. Masses of broken rock
rise above and round it, with yew
and ash, and Imtnriant fern spring-
ing from between the fissures. ** The
savageness of the soene," writes Wal-
pole, "would please your Alpine
taste: it is tumbled with frannents
of mountains that look ready laid
for the building of a world. ... I
tan persuaded it furnished Pope with
this line, so exactly it answers to the
picture^
•* * On rifted rooks, the Dragon*8 late abode.' '*
Taylor " the Water Poet " was enter-
tained in this cave bv Sir Francis
WoraOTinl639. ♦* Hiher,'' he says,
^^the keeper brought a good red
deere pye, cold roast mutton, and an
excellent shooing horn of hanged
Martimas biefe, which cheer no man
living would think such a place could
afford ; so, after some merry passases
and repast, we returned home.'' Sut
he nuutes no allusion to the dragon ;
and indeed, it seems probable that the
496
Souie 44.— Sheffield.
ballad is of more modem date. Ac-
cording to that, the dragon was des-
troyed by More of More Hall, an old
house on the opposite side of the
river Don, conspicuons from Wham-
cliffe. More provided himself with
a suit of armour at Sheffield —
** The spikes all about, not tdthln but with-
out.
Of Bteel so sharp aud strong.
Both behind and before, aims, legs, and all
o'er
Some five or six Inches long."
The ballad is said to have been a
burlesque, referring either to a con-
test between a wicked attorney who
had stripped 3 orphans of their in-
heritance, but was mined in a law-
suit which he had undertaken against
More of More Hall; or to a most
formidable drinker, who was at length
fairly drunk dead by the chieftain of
the opposite moors. But many stories
resembling it are scattered over the
K. of England, such as those of Sir
John Conyers of Sockbume; the
Worm of Spindleston Heugh; the
worm of Lambton; Kempion in the
* Border Minstrelsy,* and many others.
Whether all these record the destroc-
tion of real monsters, and whether, as
Ellis suggested to Scott, the dragon
here was " some wolf or other des-
tractive animal, finally hunted down
by More of More Hall,'' must remain
uncertain.
Ellis's letter* to Sir Walter Scott,
in which the Ihragon's Den is de-
scribed, was written from Wortley
Hall in October, 1803. The love of
Sir Thomas Wortley for "hearing
the hart's bell" greatly delighted
Sir Walter, who makes frequent
allusion to it. In the opening sen-
tences of ' Ivanhoe ' he refers to the
den of the Dragon of WanUey as one
of the relics and recollections that
give a charm to " that |deasant dis-
trict of merry England watered by
the river Don : " and the nu^gnificent
^est scene in which Gurth and
Wamba first appear, may serve as well
tor a description of the stately oaks of
Whamcliffe as of any other fragment
of ancient Sherwood.
The visitor should wander along
the edge of Whamcliffe (or ''HoW
Birch Edge," as it is called) at least
as far as Deep Car Stat.
At the next stat,
Wddtley Bridge, the near approach
to Shefiidid begins to be eerionsly
felt The din of falling hammexs
and the smoke of tall chimneys ex-
tend as far as this village, wluch is
chiefly inhabited by cutlers. A
short stage of not quite 3 m. brings
the train to
(261 m. &om Huddersfield, 177 m.
from London)
Sheffield Junction Stat.
Bailway Stations, Viaducts.
(a) Victoria Stat, Fnmival Boad,
Manchester, Sheffidd and Lineoln-
shire BIy. ; Great Northern Bly. ;
South Yorkshire Bly.
The Manchester, Sheffield and Lin-
colnshire Bly. crosses the Wicker on
a viaduct of 1 large and 2 smaller
arches, connected with piers and
arches, by the side of the Don.
(b) MidUmd Stat, Old Haymarket
and Sheaf Street
The main line of Midland Bly. from
Chesterfield passes under part of Hie
town in a tunnel, and is carried
across the Don valley on 5 arches
Another Viaduet of 40 arches carries
it across the Don valley to a junction
with Botherham Bly., near Brightside
Within the precincts of Sheffield
and its suburbs, there are stations at
Attercliffe, Beauchief and Abbc^dale,
Healey, Station Boad, Bronghton
Lane, Grimesthorpe, and Tinsley
Pott and Telegraph Qfies, Old
H^market, comer of Commercial St
Pillar-boxes in all parte of the
town.
Route AAi.—Slheffield : History.
Slteffidd (Po^, of township in 1881,
284,410 ; in 1801, it was 44,755).
Inns : Victoria, adjoining the stat.
of the Manchester, Sheffield, and
Lincolnshire lUj., hest; large and
comfortable. In the town are the
Rojal, the Angel, and the King's
Head.
Sheffield, with the exception of
Leeds, the largest and most impor-
tant town in Yorkshire, is beyond all
question the blackest, dirtiest, and
least agreeable. It is indeed impos-
sible to walk through the streets
without suffering from the dense
clouds of smoke constantlj pouring
from great open furnaces m and
around the town. Yet Sheffield stands
in a hiehlj picturesque situation, at
the confluence of the Don and the
Sheaf (a river descending from the
high moors of Derbyshire and giving
name to the town); and 3 smaller
streams — ^the Porter, the Loxlej, and
the Rivelin — join either the Don or
the Sheaf witnin the precincts of the
town, and are made to do "water-
service ** by moving grindstones and
tilt - hammers, ^us Elliott the
"Corn-law Bhymer,'' a native of
Masborough, near Sheffield, writes
of "Five rivers, like the fingers of
a hand." Horace Walpole, writing
to Montagu in 1760, describes Shef-
field with great truth as " one of the
foulest towns in England in the most
charmingsitnation." "One man there,"
he continues, amusingly enough in
the presence of the enormous manu-
factures of the same class now car-
ried on in the town, " has discovered
the art of plating copper with silver.
I bought a pair of candlesticks for
two guineas that are quite pretty."
The discoveiy was made by Thomas
Balsover in 1742.
Sheffield, a great Railway Centre,
is tiio great mart and manufacturing
place of CuUery in England. Iron
abounds in the neighbourhood, and
the rude knives or " whittles " made
[Yorkshire.}
497
here were famous all over England
in Chaucer's time —
^ A Shcffeld tbwytel bare he in his boac :"
and these maintained their reputa-
tion till the days of Elizabeth, when
the Earl of Shrewsbury (1575) pre-
sented a case of "Hallamsnire
whittles " to Lord Burleigh. Arrows
were also made here, and at the
battle of Bosworth the Earl of Bich-
mond's men were supplied with Shef-
field arrows of a better form and
make than had hitherto been manu-
factured. Toward the end of the
16th cent certain refugees from
HoUand—
'* They whom the rod of Alva bnUaed,"^
skilled in working iron and steel
took refuge in Sheffield, and were
protected by the Earl of Shrews-
Diuy. But throughout all this period
the trade, in Lord Macaulav's words,
was " subject to such regulations as
the lord and his court-leet thought
fit to impose," and little advance was
made. " The more delicate kinds of
cutlery were either made in the
capital, or brought from the Con-
tinent It was not indeed until the
reign of George I. that the English
sargeons ceased to import from France
those exquisitely fine blades which
are required for operations on the
human frame."— ^uf. Sktg,, i. ch. 3.
During the 19th cent, however, the
advance in skill of workmanship, in
enterprise, and consequently in popu-
lation, has been enormous, and Shef-
field now " sends forth its admirable
knives, razors, and lancets to the
farthest ends of the world." — Ih. The
situation is especially favourable.
Coal is abundant all around, and
formerly the woods supplied char-
coal, and the rivers the water-power
for tilt-hammers, &c It is often
asserted that the water of Sheffield
has special efficacy in tempering steel,
but this is a fiction. It depends upon
the skill of the workmen. Neither is
the ironstone of the neighbourhood
2 K
498
Boute 4:4.— Sheffield: EUiory.
suitable for steel making. Swedish
charcoal-iron is the best, and it is
imported accordingly. Next to this
is me iron made from haematite ores
of Cumberland, Westmoreland, An-
trim, and Bilbao. Sheffield, how-
ever, does possess some natural facili-
ties for steel making and working
that are peculiar. The millstone-grit
beneath and around it supplies the
material for the grindstones so largely
used in the manufacture of cutlery,
and ^'ganister/' a peculiarly refractory
materud admirably adapted far lining
inelting-pots, &c., is found so abun-
dantly on the spot that it not only
supplies all the local demand, but is
laigely exported.
The C&mpantf of ChiUera was in-
corporated m the reign of James I.
(1624) by an act " for the good order
and government of the makers of
knives, sickles, shears, scissors, and
other cutlery wares in Hallamshire/^
and was under the control of a master,
wardens, searchers, and assistants.
Their duties consisted in maintaining
the reputation of Sheffield wares by
examining into the quality of goods
made, and allowing toeir marks to be
affixed only to such as were of ap-
proved excellence, te prevent their
trade ^'fallinff into disrepute by
maJunff and sdling unworkmanly and
deceitiul wares ; *' they also adminis-
tered the laws respecting masters and
apprentices. The company and Master
Cutler, however, were stripped of the
chief part of their authority by the
Befonn Bill, and their funds are con-
siderably reduced since the cessation
of apprentice fees and other branches
of uieir mono^ly. Their annual
feast, however, it need hardly be said,
is still, like a Lord Mayor's festival,
one of those public occasions on which
statesmen and politicians find an
opportunity for discussing public
events, ^ome of Mr. Boebuck's most
remarkable speeches were mode here.
The " feast," which is given in Cutlerrf
Hall by the Master Cutler on his in-
stallAtion, had become important so
early as 1682, when many peers were
present at it.
The manor of Hallam, which Shef-
field now represents, belonged at the
period of the Conquest to the great
Earl Waltheof, beheaded in 1075 for
his share in a rising against the Con-
queror. It gave name to the sur-
rounding district of '^ Hallanishire,''
which originally comprehended the
parishes of Sheffield, Ecdesfield, and
Handsworth, but which now repre-
sents a wider tract, embracing all the
villages in which cutlery-work is
carried on. (So " Howdenshire,"'
" North AUertonshiie," " Bichmoiid-
shire," are the districts sorrounding
those tewns over which the jurisdic-
tion of their lords anciently extended.
Yorkshire is in effect an agglomera-
tion of smaller shires.)
Hallamshire was granted to Boger
do Busli, who is recorded as its lord
in ' Domesday.' It passed from him
to the De Lovetots and the fHimivals,
from whom, in 1406, the estates
came by marriage to the Talbots,
Earls of Shrewsbury. A castle was
certainly existing here in the reign
of Henry III., and had probably been
built by the first Norman lc«tts oi
Hallam. A stately manor-house was
built, 2 m. from the castle, by the
4th Earl of Shrewsbury, and was
completed early in the reign of
Hen. Vm. Of the castle, which
stood at the angle formed hy the
junction of the Sheaf and the Don.
no fragment remains.
Of the Manor-Howe only a small
portion, which is, however, interest-
ing as having been occasionally
occupied by Mary Queen of Scots
during her long captivity in Shef-,
field. This fragment of the ancient '
manor-house was restored, 1873, bv
the owner, the Duke of Norfolk, ift
contains a small apartment known
as Queen Mary's Chamber,* haring
a richly-decorated ceiling, jembossed
with rose, pomegranate, and fienr-de-
lys ornament, of arabesque design,
and with the heraldic charges oC flje
Boufe 44:.— Sheffield: HUUny.
499
Talbots. A turret-staircase leads from
it to a watch-tower and flat roof,
-which command an extensive view
of the eastern part of the town and
suburbs. In the mamor Wolsey was
received by the Barl of Shrewsbury
after his disgrace, and remained here
18 days. He died in the abber at
Leicester 6 days after he left Shef-
field. In the Gagde Queen Maty of
Scotland passed 12 years of her cap-
tivity, strictly watched by the stem
Karf and (Countess, her keepers.
*» I have hnr sur inoughe," he writes
to Elizabeth, **and shal keepe hur
for the comyng at your Majesty's
commandment, ether quyke or ded,
what soever she or anny for hur in-
ventes for the contrary; and as I
have no doute at all of bar stelynge
away from me, so if any forsabml
attempts be gyven for hur, the
eretest perell is sure to be hurs."
Mary was first sent to Sheffield in
1570, and finally left it for Winfield
in 1584. During her stay here she
was twice allowed to visit Buxton;
and on -one occasion the rooms she
inhabited in the castle were so vio-
lently shaken by an earthquake that,
wrote the Earl, " I douted more her
faleing than ner goin^e.*' She was
allow^ to ride forth in the neigh-
bourtKX)d under strict supervision.
During the Civil War Sheffield
Castle was garrisoned for the kmg
by the Earl of Newcastle, who left
Sir William Saville in it as governor.
It was attacked and taken by the
Parliamentarians in August, 1644,
and was afterwards slighted and dis-
mantled. Before the war it had
passed by marriage, with the Hal-
lamshire estates of the Talbots, to the
Howards : and in 1648 all this pro-
perty, which had been confiscated by
the Parliament, was restored to that
family, and still belongs to the Duke
of Nofffolk. -
Except St. Peter's Church, the
public bnildings of Sheffield are of
little interest, and the town has re-
ceived less consideration and orna-
ment of late years than any other of
the great manufacturing towns in
Yoruhire; but the strimger who
cares for sueh matters should not
leave the town without visiting a
steel fwmaoe ; a grifMnf-mifl for
saws as well as small artades; and
one of the large dep^ of endery.
It should 1^ said that the autho-
rities-of the town are careful in
providing su<^ open spaces for
health and recreation as may be
attainable. The large Weston Hall
estate, on ilie N. of the town, was
bought ri873) at a large price, to be
converted into a public park. The
NoffoUc Fa/rky in the neighbourhood
of the Manor House, has been well
laid out, and ^commands a fine view of
Sheffield, when the wind carries the
smoke iii an opposite direction.
*8t, Petet^t, or the parish Chureht
stands in an open churchyard near
the centre of the town. It is a cruci-
form building of 14th and 15th cen-
turies, its chancel (late Dec.) and nave
(Perp.), with a tower and crocketed
sphre rising at the intersection. After
suffering several barbarous alterations
in recent times, it underwent a thor-
ough restoration, completed 1880, at a
cost of 20,0001., of which one half
was given by Mrs. Tfaomhill Gell ;
and 25002. by Mrs. Parker, to raise a
S. transept as a memorial to her hus-
band, a physician of Sheffield. A
N. transept has been thrown out, the
nave extended S5 ft, and a new W.
front erected, including a 6-light
window and recessed porch beneath
it. Plaster-roof,- galleries, and high
pews were swept awav^ and the result
reflects credit on the liberality of the
citizens of Sheffield. The nave has
loftv Perp. piers, with ba^amented
capitals. The four piers sapporting
the central tower are earlier, and are
remarkable for their small caps.
More interesting than the imildiiig
itself, however, are the numnments in
the Shriwtbury CkapAy at the S.E.
end' of the ohancd, founded by the
2 K 2
600
Baute U.— Sheffield.
4th Earl (the hoilder of the manor-
house) in the reign of Hen. VIIL
His monument is placed under the
aich whidb divides the chapel from
the chanceL It is an altar-tomb,
with effigies of the Earl and his 2
Countesses, the 2nd of whom, how-
ever (in spite of the inscription round
the tomb), survived her husband, and
was buried at Erith in Kent. The
Earl is in armour, with coronet,
mantle of the Ghurter, and George.
The Countesses wear heraldic dresses.
All theur figures are in alabaster, and
are unusuaUy good. Against the S.
wall is the monument to the 6th Earl ;
erected during his lifetime. He was
the ** keeper'' of Queen Mary, and
was {nresent at her execution. The
long inscription was composed by
Foze, the compiler of the ' Book ot
Martyrs,' an honour which was per-
haps thought due to the Earl for his
services in the Protestant cause. The
effigy, in armour, partly gilt, lies on
a roUed mattrass, with the feet rest-
ing on a talbot — **the talbot ever
tnie and faithful to the crowne.''
Below is a sarcophagus with bands
and lions' heads. At the sides of the
monument are talbots supporting
banners. Much gold and colour re-
main throughout, and the whole
work deserves speisial notice as one
of the very finest examples in Eng-
land of its period. The plain tomb
in the cenbre of the chapel is pro-
bably a cenotaph, and is thought to
have been the fot design of the 6ih
Earl for his own monument.
In the chancel is a monumental
bust of the Bev. Jas. Wilkinson,
vicar, died 1805. It is by ChatOrey,
and is said to have been his firat
work. Another monument, also by
Chantrey, is for Sir Thos. Harrison
(died 1818) and his wife Elizabeth
(1883). This is one of the later
works of the sculptor, but is not very
successful.
At the door of the chancel, in
1700, was buried William Walker
of Daniall (a village about 8 m.
from Sheffield), who is supposed
(with whatever truth) to have been
the executioner of Charles L Walker
was a person of considerable stand-
ing in the neighbourhood, and was
at all events a violent republican,
and the author of a bode entitled
'Vindicisa contra Tyrannos.' It is
said that at one time a warrant was
issued for his apprehension, and that
he was obliged to conceal himself in
the village of Handsworth.
There are many other chnrches in
Sheffield, owing their existence to
munificent private subscribersL The
town has increased so greatly since
1840, that additional church accom-
modation had become imperiously
necessary, when, in 1863, the Abp.
of York made a stirring appeal to
the inhabitants. It was nobly re-
sponded to. Many thousands were
subscribed at once. The sites of
fresh churches were chosen, and in
1866 the first of these new churches
at Brightside was built and endowed
at the cost of Sir John Brown. [It is
dedicated to AU Saints, but is com-
monly known as *'John Browns
Church," and is finely situated, over-
looking the Atlas works which he
established, and for the employ^ in
which the church was mainly erected.
It was consecrated by the Abp.]
The Soman Catholic Church of J&.
Mary, in Norfolk Bow, is a good
modem building, completed in 1850
(architects, Weightman and Had-
field). The chancel is richly orna-
mented. The roodscreen and loft
were designed by Pugin,
The CuOen' JTofl, Chmtsh Si
(buUt 1823, enlarged by a fine hall
about 1865), is a Grecian building
of no very striking ampearanc«
externally. It contains a few ^or-
traits and busts; among the latter
those of the Bt Hon. J. Parker and
J. S. Buckingham, the first members
returned for Sheffield, which was
unrepresented in Parliament before
the Befonn Bill; beudes one of
BouU U.— Sheffield.
501
Montgomerj the poet, by TheophUua
Smith of Sheffield. Of the portraits,
the most interestmg is that of the
Ber. Joseph Hunter, the hiBtarian
of Hallamshire. In the Inger hatt
the annual banquets are held.
The Corn Exckange was boilt 1881,
at the cost of the Jjnke of Norfolk.
A Hotel forms part of the bnilding.
The Market, opened in 1851 (cost,
with site, about 40,0002.), is spacious
and convenient; it deserves a visit.
Fronting the Meat and Poultiy Market
(opposite High St) is the ''EUioU
Monument/* a sittin? figure of the
** Com Law Khymcr^ (see po9t), in
bronze, hj Bumand,
In Norfolk road, on a part of the
Park of the old Manor-house, stands
the Shrewsbury Hoepiiaij founded
by Gilbert, 7th Earl, and completed
1673, in pursuance of his will, by
the Duke of Norfolk. It was origin-
ally in the centre of the town, but
removed hither 1827. The present
edifice is a handsome Ctothic struc-
tore. It forms 3 sides of a square,
including a chapel, 86 dwellings for
poor pensioners, and a chaplain's re-
sidence. Near it, on an eminence
planted with trees, is a monument to
the memoiy of those (839) persons
who died here of cholera in 1833.
In Barker Pool is the Albert Murio
JIaU, a spacious modem building,
erected at a cost of 40,0002., and con-
taining a fine concert organ by a
French builder.
In the Music Hall, Surrey St., is
the Public Library of 7000 vols.
The Free Library of 85,000 vols, is
also in Surrey St. ; and in the School
of Art, in Arandel Si, there is a
small Mueeum of the Literaiy and
Philosophical Society, who hold their
meetings in the building. The Com-
merdfU BwHding$y a Grecian edifice,
in High Street, include a subscription
Neu»-Toom.
A good ^eti^a-roofii exists in the
Athenxum, George St.
PuIjUg Baths in Glossop Boad.
Pol Square (named from cracibles
or meltmg " pots "), in the centre of
the town, is an open space.
The PHik ObOsge, a handsome
building, comer of Bow St. and
Leopda St., erected at a eost of
20,000?., endowed in great part by
members of the Frith fimiily aided by
other citizens, is intended for the
promotion of Scientific and Technical
Education. It contains large Lecture
Hall, laboratories, and class rooms.
The Botaniodl and HortieuUural
Cfarden, about 1^ m. from the market-
place (i hour's drive— fare Is. 6d.),
will wdl repay a visit. An order of
admission must be obtained from a
member. To reach it, the High St.
and other thoroughfares stretching
up the hill are traversed, and, leaving
behind manufactories and ware-
houses, you emerge into a quarter
composed of villas and country
houses, in small gardens. At this
elevation you have surmounted the
smoke which envelopes the lower
town, and look down upon the vale
of tiie Porter, hereabouts still rural
and pretty, though shrouded at
its lower extremity, like that in
the vision of Mina, by a sea of thick
vapour. Near the gardens stands
the Wesleyan ProprietarY Sehool, a
handsome Grecian building, with
central portico, destined for the edu-
cation of about 200 boys, children of
Wesleyans, who are very numerous
in Sheffield, having 12 chapels, of
which several are somewhat im-
posing buildings.
Lower down, on the slope of
the hill, is the CoOegiaie SOiool
rChurch of England). It is a neat
Gothic building.
The opposite slope of the Talley
beyond tne river Porter is occupieil
by the Cfeneral Cemetery, partlr
formed in a quany cut in the hill-
side. Montgom^ the poet is buried
here, and over his grave is a bronze
statue designed by SeU the sculptor.
502
BouteU.— Sheffield: Oelebriiies.
The JSorrodbs, on the oatskirts of
the town (between the Festftone
road and the Langaett road), were
completed in 1850, and contain accom-
modation for a rcttiment of cavalry
and a regiment of infantry, beaideB
drill and parade grounds.
The Firth Parky opened Ang. 16,
1875, bj the Prince and Princeas of
Wales, is named after Mr. Mark
Firth, the steel manirfactnrer, who
presented 35 acres to the town. It
stands on the Sheffield and Wake-
fi^d road, between Qriimetthorpe and
Shite Green, 2^ m. from the centre
of the town. It is well laid-ont on
ondolating ground, well- wooded . on
one side and commanding fine views
of the vallej, in which are the works
of Sir J. Blown, Cammel, 4tc, and
through which runs the Midland BXy.
Also of the wood and hill of Wineo-
hank (Bte. 46), which maj be conve-
niently visited from here. This park
is well appreciated by Ihe multitude
of workers on this side of the town,
and has supplied a want that was
sorely felt in summer time.
There is another small park attached
to the Weitem Mueeumj which con-
tains the nucleus of a technologieal
and general collection intended to
illustrate the local industries and
naturalproductions.
8t, Ctearge'a Mueeum, founded by
Mr. Ruskin, at Upper Walkley (take
the Hillsbroogh truncar from bottom
of Snig Hill to Greaves St, then
walk or drive up a steep hill by the
Walkley Boad) is at present (1882)
in a small house in a ganlen com-
manding magnificent views; but a
large and more suitable building will
be built for. them. Mr. Buskin^ gift
includes his fine collection of silicious
mineraJfl, drawings by himself, photos
of Venice, and some rare books, de-
voted by their proprietor to public
instruction. They are crowded in
one room, and therefore ill displayed.
He has placed them here on an emi-
nenee, in order that the students who
visit them shall f (ht the time be re-
moved from the smoky town, and con-
template the natural beantiea which
the proepeet di^lays.
Ferbaps the most imposing distant
view of. Sheffield is obtained from
the village of Crookes.
Sandenon, Bishop of Lincoln, was
buried here, 1587 ; and here BiKhan
Kmctised, and wrote his 'Dmneetic
(edicine.' Mrs. Hofland, author of
* The Son of a Genius;' theBev.Jos
Hunter, the able historian of Hallam-
shire and South Yorkshire ; T. Ores-
wick, R A., the landscape artist (bom
bete 1811); and W. S. Bennett,
the musician (bom 1816), are all
natives of Sheffield. Like most of
the wealthy manufacturing towns,
Sheffield was a stronghold of Puri-
tanism. Bagshaw of Hncklow, called
the Apostle of the Peak, Daniel and
Samuel Clark, Jollie and Wadsworth
of Attercliffe, all connected with this
district, are well-known Poritan
Glosely connected with Sheffield
was Jam98 Montgomery^ the poet, bom
at Irvine in Ayrshire, Nov. 4, 1771.
His father was a Moravian minister.
In 1792 Montgomeiycameto Sheffield
as assistant to Mr. GMes, proprietor
of the < Sheffield Begister,' afterwards
called the 'Iris,' and remained here
till his death in 1854. His chief
poems are * The Wanderer of Switzer-
land,* ' The World before the Flood.'
and ' The Pelican IsUnd.* Ebenexer
EUioU, the " Ck)m Law Bhymer."
was bom at Masborough in 1781.
He afterwards settled in Sheffield,
and embarked in the steel bnsinefs.
His * Com Law Bhymes * first made
him known, but his most interesting
poems are those in which he de-
scribes the scenery round Sheffield.
Sir Francis Chantrep was hctn
(April 7, 1781) at Norton in Derby-
shir^ about 4 m. from Sheffield.
After some attempts at other oocnpa-
tion, he was apprenticed to a carver
and gilder in Sheffield: but his in-
dentures were soon cancelled, and he
Saute 44.~ShejffiM : St^ McmifiusUurei.
603
began herd on lua own account, fint
as a portrait-painter, and then (1864)
as a sculptor. His first bast remains
in St Peter's Cb. (see anU). COiantr^
died in 1841, and was buried in
Norton choschjard.
The Sted Mam^adwvs o£ Shef-
field are of 3 distinct kinds. (1)
CntleiT-^kniTesy raoors, scisisors, &c. ;
this is the c^ and staple trade of the
place : (2) Larger forgings in steel —
such as steel nils for railways, steel
bells, Sk.: and (3) Workmen's and
engineer's tools — ^files, saws, Ac. Of
the 1st, Messrs. Joseph Bodger^s
Works and Show Booms in Norfolk
St. wlU supply the visitor with the
best examples ; and if he take an in-
troduction, or can otherwise obtain
permission, he may here see the whole
process of manufacture. The largest
iron and steel works in the town
are those of Sir John Brown and
Co. (Lim.), and Messrs. GannneU
and Ck>. (Lim.), both celebrated
for the manufacture of armour-
platee and heavy castings and
forgings of evenr description. Messrs.
Naylor and Viokerg, of the **Don
Works," are the best and largest
makers of cast-steel bells; and
Messrs. Turton^ Messrs. /Sanderson,
and Messrs. TFiord, are very extensive
makers of steel files, &c A list of
the great steel manufacturers of
Sheffield would, however, extend to no
small length. Factories and woiks
liave rapiuy extended, chiefly on the
N. side of the Bon, between the riy.
Stat, and Brightside. The works are
not generally shown without an intro-
duction. It should be added that,
although those named above are
very large and important, there are
many of equal, or of hardly less
extent; and in all, large or amaU,
the process of manufacture may be
well seen.
Steel is a peculiar combination of
iron with carbon. '< Without carbon
the manifold uses of iron would be
greatly restricted. . . When carbon
is absent. Of -only present in very
small, quantity, we have wrought
inm, wnich Js comparatively soft,
malleable, ductile, weldable, easily
forgeable, and very tenacious, but
not fusible except at temp^atures
rarely attainable in furnaces, and not
susceptiUe of tempering like steel:
when present in certain proportions,
the limits of which cannot exactly be
prescribed, we have the various kinds
of deeiti which are highly elastic,
malleable, ductile, forgeable, weld-
able, and capable of receiving very
different degrees of hardness by tem-
pering, even so as to cut wrought
iron with facility, and fusible in
furnaces; and lastly, when present
in greater proportion than in steel,
we have east tron, which is hard,
comparatively brittle, and readily
fusible, but not forgeable or weld-
able. The differences between these
3 well-known sorts of iron essentially
depend upon differences in the pro*
portion of carbon, though other ele-
ments may and often do concur in
modifying in a striking degree the
qualities of this wondenul metaL'*-—
br, Percy, ' Lron and Steel.'
No British iron (except the Ulver-
stone charcoal iron, of which the sup-
ply is very small) is adapted to make
good steel, owing to the phosphorus
and 'Other impurities in the ore;
consequently our manufacturers are
compelled to import large quantities
of iron or iron-ore from Sweden, Rus-
sia, and Gennany. The best quality
is that called, from the mark it boars
(the letter L within a circle), '* hoop-
L," and is made with charcoal, at
Dannemora, in Sweden ; but there are
many other good qualities of iron,
each distinguisbed by its peculiar
mark. Though British iron is not
fitted for steel, yet British steel is
of such superior excellence, that it
is not only employed at Sheffield,
and throughout England, for cutlerv,
edge-tools, saws, &c., but it is largely
exported to all parts of the world, and
Swedish and Russian iron is returned
504
BatOe 4A.— Sheffield : Sled Mamfacturei.
to the countries from which it came,
in the shape of steel bars. To con-
vert the iron bars into hlUtered tted,
ihey are laid in a troogh of firestone
in layers side by side, bedded in a
powder of charcoal mixed with 1-lOth
of ashes and common salt This is
called cement, and keeps the bars
separate from one another. The whole
is covered with damp sand, or the re-
sidue of sand and mud found at the
bottom of the grindinr-troughs, here
called tdkeelewarf. This excludes
the air and prevents combustion. A
fire is lighted underneath, and kept
up for 8, 10, or 12 days, at a tem-
perature not exceeding 100° Wedg-
wood's pyrometer (for fear of melting
the iron). At the end of that period
the iron is converted 4nto steel — ^that
is, has imbibed a sufficient quantity
of carbon from the charcoal (in the
proportion of about i per cent.) to
change its nature and give it the
hardness belonging to steeL When
the bars are drawn out, the surface
is found covered with blisters,
whence its name. It is also con-
siderably fissm^ in the process, and
to render it fit for use it must be
hammered and forged under a tilt-
hammer.
Shear Steel is made by shearing or
cutting the bars of blister steel mto
short lengths, binding them t(^;;ether
into bundles or '* faggots," which are
raised to *' welding heat " in a furnace,
then beaten under a tilt-hammer till
the bars combine into one mass or rod
—thus gaining uniform density and
tenacity thnnighout
Ckui Stetl-^The art of melting
steel and eatUng it in a mould, thus
converting it mto the best quality of
the metal for fine cutlery, was in-
vented at Sheffield, 1770, by Mr.
Huntsman, of Attercltfle. It is made
in greater quantity here than any
where else in the world. For this
purpose the blistered steel, broken
mto small pieces, is heated in a barrel-
shaped dose crucible of Stoartirid^
day in a furnace fed with coke, m
which it is entirely imbedded. It
usually takes 4 hours to rednce the
metal to a fluid state. The heat of
the furnace used in this proceas is so
intense that a stranger wOl find him-
self searched on approaching it. The
workman who extracts the crucible
with a pair of tongs, prepares hinnelf
for the operation by clothing arms,
legs, and head with coarse sacking,
and either subjects himself to a pomp,
or rorinkles his garments thorcm^ilj
with water beforehand, to prevent
their catching fire. Simple as the
duty of taking out the cmdble and
pouring the fluid metal into the
mould may appear, it is one reaniring
great skill and care, only to oe ac-
quired by long experience, and paid
by very high wages. The shower of
bright green sparks issuing from the
liquid metal as it is poured into the
mould is very beautiful. The ingot
of steel, when cold, rings with a
pure, dear, and intense sound, like
bell-metaL All the finest artides of
cutlery, the best scissors, knives,
raaors, the chisels used by sculptors,
and the sted plates employed by
engravers, as well as surgical instm-
ments, are made of cast stoeL
These are the usual processes in
steel -making. But the Be8sefR<r
proeeesj the invention ol ICr. Henry
Bessemer, caUs for especial notice,
since for some pmposes it promises to
supplant all others. This was first
made generally known in 1856, when
Mr. Bessemer read a paper on the
subject before the British Aasociation
at Chdtenham. He afterwards esta-
blished a manufactory at Sheffield
(it is near Brightside, adjoining the
works of Sir J. Brown and Co.) for
the i»repanLtion of sted on his own
principle, and has succeeded oom-
pletdy.
The length of time necessary for
converting iron into steel according
to the usual method is from 15 to 21)
days; and 3j^ hours more are n-
Bouie 44.— Sheffield : Sieel Manufactured
605
quired for changing the bars into
cast steel. Bj the Bessemer pro-
cess iron is conyerted into steel in
half an hour. The vessel used for
the conversion is made of stronff
boiler-plate, and is lined with
*' ganister," a silicious stone found
in the neighbourhood, and capable
of resisting the action of heat and
slags. This vessel has an aperture
at the top for pouring the metal in
and out, and at the bottom are
tuyeres of fireclay, each with several
holes in it. Through these a blast
from the engine enters. The vessel
is first thoroughly heated with coke,
and a auantity of pig-iron, having
been melted in an adjoming furnace,
is poured into it. The blast is then
turned on, and a most powerful com-
bustion takes place, filling the place
with a strong white light. At a cer-
tain time, 15 to 20 minutes, the huge
dazzling fiame contracts and loses its
brilliancy ; this is due to the cessation
of the combustion of silicon and car-
bon, which are now burnt out At
this signal the ^ converter,** with its
charge of 5 to 10 tons of molten
metfu, is turned over by means of
hydraulic maehinerv, and as it turns,
the blast cutting through the scoria
on the surface throws up a magnifi-
cent arch of brilliant coruscations.
Then the metal rests on the side of
the converter, the bk»t is turned off,
and the '* spiegeletsen,*' or **ferro-
manganese," a compound of known
percentages of iron, manganese, and
carbon, is poured in. This supplies
the proportion of carbon required to
give the steel the requisite hardness,
and the manganese assists in purifica-
tion. Durinff the pouring of the
" Spiegel " a Deantifiu blue flame of
burning carbonic oxide pours in vast
volume from the mouth of the con-
verter. The steel is now made ; the
hydraulic machinery, moved by a
mere touch of the hand, pours the
molten charge into a huge cauldron
called the •* ladle." This now swings
over the ingot moulds, a plug is re-
moved, and the melted steel pours
heavily into the moulds. The ingots
thus formed are picked up by ma-
chinery while still red-hot, and carried
away to the steam hammers to be
condensed by heavy thumping, then
re-heated and rolled into rails, plates,
tires, or what else may be required.
Visitors should, if possible, witness
the whole of a "blow,*' from the
charge of the converter to the notu--
ing into moulds, about i an nour.
This is best seen at <*The Atlas
Works " (J. Brown and Co.), or ** The
Attercliffe Works** (Brown, Bayley
and Dixon). Tramcars run continu-
ally to either.
From the manufacture of steel it-
self we come to that of the various
articles made of it. Shear-steel is
used for table-knives and edge-tools ;
cast steel for razors, penknives, and
best scissors; and common steel for
inferior articles. The workman
called a forger is provided with a
small furnace, an anvil, and a trough
of water. He heats red-hot the end
of a rod in the fire, places it on the
anvil, and hammers it by hand into
the shape of a penknife, razor-blade,
or whatever is required. It is then
cut off, heated again, and a piece of
iron welded to it to form the tang by
which it is held during grinding, and
afterwards attached to the haft It is
again smartly hammered to give it
density. The nail-hole is struck in
it and the maker*6 name and mark
stamped while hot The blade is
hardened by being plunged red-hot
into water ; it is afterward tempered
by being laid upon a flat plate over
the fire until tt assumes a certain
blue or purple colour, according to
the temper required. Oil is frequently
used instead of water, and in some
cases baths of melted metal, for tem-
pering.
The processes of making other
articles vary in the details. Table-
knives are partly made of iron, and in
part shaped by a stamp or die, being
in fact cut out of a sheet of steel,
506
BotUe U.— Sheffield: Steel Manufaeturei.
and the shoulders, tangs, and backs
welded on : these and razors require
2 workmen, a forger and a sbiker, to
manage the forging process, the one
holding the hot rteel by a pair of
tongs with his left hand and a onall
hammer in his right, while the other
wields a heavj hammer with which
he strikes alternate blows.
Scissors and forks are also made
in a different manner. The blades
after being tempered and hardened
are sent to the
Grinding MiU to be ground, a
curious operation weU worth the notice
of the trayeller. There are at least
70 grinding-mills in and about Shef-
field, more than 20 of which are
moved by steam-engines of the aggre-
power of 800 horses, and the rest
turned by water.
The first steam-wheel was erected
in 1787, and formed a very sensible
improvement upon the old-fashioned
rickety sheds of former times. On
entering one of these mills the first
impression made on the stranger will
be by the harsh and stunning noise.
He will then remark that the apart-
ment is occupied by a number of
Irougha^ in which turn grindstones of
various sizes; those for table-knives
being 4 feet in diameter, and 9 or 10
inches broad, whilst some are em-
ployed even as large as 8 ft. in dia-
meter. They are of soft gritstone, and
are obtained from the quarries of
Wykerslcy, near Roche Abbey. The
immense velocity with which they
are whirled round renders them
liable to split and fly, and the frag-
ments not unfrequently burst through
the roof and break holes in the
walls; of course seriously injuring
or even killing the grinder, who si£
astride above the stone, on a wooden
saddle. There are few mills whose
walls and roofs do not exhibit the
marks of such accidents. Such frac-
tures of the stones arose either from
some flaw in their mass, or they are
cracked by too tight wedging round
the hole formed for the axle to turn
in. To avoid this, the take is now
usually fixed in stout iron discs
screwed a^nst the stone so as to
press its sides, and remove the tor-
uon as far as possible from the
centre.
Some articles are ground wei, and
others require a dry stones When
the latter is employed, a eonstamt
stream of sparks of the utmost bril-
liancy, rivaUing fireworks, is emitted,
to the great in jory of the health of
the workman, who inhales the fine
angular particles and contracts what
is called grinder's asthma. The fork
and needle-grinders are most exposed
to this disease, as they use the drv-
stone exclusively, and their heads arf
constantly enveloped in the deleterious
atmosphere. The complaint was
unknown until grinding became an
exclusive business, and not performed,
as. previously, by the cutlers them-
selves. It has become mueh more
prevalent since the intrdduction of
steam-mills, and it has been proved
that out of 2500 grinders in this town
not 85 had reached the age of 50,
while among 80 fork-giindera there
was not one individual of the age of
35. It was proposed to prevent this
by making the workmen wear » neck-
lace of magnets to attract the steel
dust, and a gauze or wire mask bef id^e
the mouth: but a more effectual
contrivance is a wooden chimney coui-
muuicating with the open air, and
with its lower end partly enclosing
the wheel, the mere revolution m
which produces a current of air suffi-
dent to cany off the dust. In spite,
however, of the certain fate which
awaits the grinder, this invention i5
but little employed. The blade after
being ground is subjected to thr
glazier, a wooden wheel formed (if
wedge-shaped pieces arranged cross-
grained, to preserve a pniecuy circuLir
form in case of shrinking, and stronglj
glued together. The surface is co-
vered either with a strip of leather
coated with emery, or with a sheet of
soft metal, an alloy of tin and lead
Bouts ^.—Sheffield: Steel Manufactures.
507
(for penknives and nuors), on wbick
emeiy is also laid ; this give smooth-
ness and polish to the surface, while
the finest articles are rubbed on
another wooden wheel coated with
buff leather and thence called a
buffer.
The most extraordinary variety of
grinding is that of mwSf in which
tne grinder, holding the steel phite
cut into the shape ofa saw -^ith Doth
hands outstretched, and nearly pros-
trate, leans his whole weight upon
the grinding-stone, balancing hiuiself
on the points of his toes, and press-
ing the plate against the stone with
his knees. There is a risk of his
being whirled over by the grindstone
if he loses his balance. This process
requires great muscular exertion as
well as skill.
Satn are made of steel rolled out
into plates. Very long practice will
alone enable the cutler to hammer
out the plate true, even, and of equal
elasticity. The teeth are cut with a
punch and then tiled, and the tem-
pering is effected by dipping the
plate heated in a furnace to a cherry
red, in a mixture of oil, tallow, and
resin, the proportions and some of
the ingredients being generally kept
secret.
A File Manufactory is another of
the sights of Sheffield. Here again
great delicacy and skill are required
to produce a good article, and the
marks of certain houses, reputed for
the wares they turn out, are often
falsified. The steel bars out of which
files are made, after careful forging
with hammers of peculiar shape, are
softened in order to be cut or grooved.
This is effected by the hand; and
though to all appearance just the
sort of work which machinery might
easily perform, yet it has never been
so cdffectually executed as by hand.
The precision and celerity with
which the workman strikes the cnts
or furrows by a heavy hammer and a
short highly tempered chisel, so as
not to leave the slightest variation
in depth, distance, or parallelism be-
tween the lines, is wonderful. Before
hardening the file, its surface requires
to be protected with a mixture of
ale-lees and salt, to preserve it from
scaling off and exfoliating in the fire ;
so^netimes the charcou of burnt
leather is used. It is then heated in
a coke fire as uniformly as possible
in every part, and it is next hardened
by dipping it in water as cold as
possible. Unless care be used, the
file will warp in this process, and
skill is required and wme strength
to bring it straight. The files are
lastly washed in lime-water '* to kill
the salt,"' which would rust and cor-
rode them.
The casting of 8teel belh at Messrs.
Naylor and Vickers' works is well
worth seeing. Steel gnites and stoves
are made largely in Sheffield. Steel
wire (some even finer than hair, used
for watches) is another branch of
manufacture which is mpidly in-
creasing, as is the making of steel
springs for railways. In some of the
larger steel -works Bessemer - steel
rails are made at a price but little
above that of iron rails, which they
are now rapidly superseding. Iron
armour-plate for ships of war are also
made at Brown s and Cammell's, who
have practical monopoly of these.
Silver pUting and the manufacture
of Britannia metal (this is composed
of block-tin, copper, and martial
regulus of antimony) are carried on
here by several large firms. In Fort-
land St are the very larg6 confec-
tioneiy works of Messrs. Bossett.
Sroom Hall, on the southern out-
skirts of Shefiield, the house of R.
N. Phillips, Esq., is a remarkable
timbered mansion, the earliest por-
tions of which seem to have been
built by one Robert Swyft, in the
reign of Edward IV. or Richard III.
It has been added to and altered,
but is still veiy interesting, and
affords an excellent ^ecimen of the
Baute ^.—Sheffield to Doncasief.
508
timbered dwellings anciently con-
structed in this great forest district
The great inundation on the night
of the 11th of March, 1864, wiU long
he remembered at Sheffidd. The
Bradfield reservoir, 6 m. above Shef-
field, covering an area of 76 acres,
and holding 114,000,000 cubic feet
of water, suddenly burst through its
embankment — an enormous erection
800 yards long, with an average
height of 85 ft, and 40 ft. in thick-
ness. The flood swept off every-
thing before it, from tne confluence
of the Jjoidej and the Rivelin to
the Don. Nearly 800 persons
perished, and the property destroyed
was estimated at more than one
million. Large subscriptions were
at once raised for the sufferers. The
vast reservoirs which are formed
among all these hills for the water-
supply of the great manufacturing
towns demand constant watching
and supervision; adding, as they do,
a danger by no means to be despised
to the many oti^ers to which such
towns are specially exposed.
Sheffield has a water communica-
cation between the 2 seas by means
of the river Don, which is made navi-
gable from the confluence with the
Humber to Tinsley, 8 m. off, whence
the SheMdd Canals constructed 1817
along the rt. bank of the Don, con-
veys to tiie doors of the manufacturers
the heavy raw materials for their
wares, and distributes hence to all
parts of the world the equally heavy
inanufactured articles. It terminates
in a basin near the junction of the
Don and Sheaf, passes throueh a
deep cutting on the S. side of Atter-
cliife, and is carried over the Der-
went road by a long massy aqueduct
There are 12 locks upon it in a course
of little more than 8 m.
(see the present route, anie) mar
easily be visited by rly. Weniwortk
Hou8e (Lord Fitzwilliam), with its
noble Vandy6k$, is also accessible from
the Rotherham My. (see Btc. 45):
Beauckuf Abbey, 4 m. from Sheffield,
on the Midland line to Chesterfield,
is in Derbyshire (see Handbook for
that county). There are few remains,
but the site is very pleasing and pic-
turesque.
There is some pretty scenery on
the Bivelin, and on the Wjrming
bnjok, which falls into it about 4 m.
from Sheffield, Wharndiffe Woods
ROUTE 46.
SHEFHELO TO DONOASTCItf BY IftAS-
BOROUGH (ROTHERHAM).
Midland Sly., 5 trains daily, in 1
hr. This line has a stat at Mas-
borough only. The tourist wishing
to go direct to Botherham (which
is I m. from Masborourih) diould
take the Sheffield and BoOterham
line, on which there are very frequent
trains, performing the distance in 20
min. On this line there are stations
at Brighteide and Holmes, The
line as far as Masborongh is the
same as in tiie following route, bnt
on this (the Sheffield and Doncaster
branch of the Midland) the trains do
not stop between Sheffield and Mas-
borougn.
The smoke and dirt of numberless
forges and collieries accompany the
rly. nearly as far as Masborougb.
Its course is through the vaUer of
the Don, which winds rt Abooi 1
m. from Sheffield, across the rim,
Boute 45. — Mcuiborough.
509
is the village of AttercUff, with a
modern ch., onlj remarkable for
A sounding-board, invented by the
Bev. J. Blackburn, and described in
the 'Fhilos. Trans.' Bejond the
village is Uie wooded hill of Tindey
Park, with large collieries, quarries,
and iron-works. 2 m. from ^effield,
L of the rly., is the village of Bright-
side (itat on the She£Seld and
Botherham Rlj.)i between which and
Sheffield itself enonnous iron and
steel factories are ropidlj extending.
On the hill of Wineobank, at the
back of the village, is a large camp,
nearly circular, with a deep ditch and
vallum, attributed to the Romans,
but probably constructed originally by
the ^rigantes, a numerous and war-
like British tribe, who strugsied
fiercely against the Romans. The
wooded hill, commanding a wide
view, on which this camp is placed,
has been fonned by a fault which
here occurs in the coal formation.
Connected with the camp, and run-
ning from it N.E. in the direction
of Mexborough, is a bank called the
" Soman Bidge,"* partly natural, and
formed by the same *' fault," but arti-
ficial wherever additional strength
was required. On the S. side (towards
the Don) is a deep ditch. For some
distance this rampart forms the boun-
dary between the parishes of Sheffield
and Ecclesfield. It has been traced
(and, spite of plou|;hs and collieries,
is still traceable at mtervals) as far as
Mezborough, where it seems to ter-
minate. At the period of its con-
struction marshes extended from Mex-
borough to Conisborough Cliffs, and
formed of themselves a sufficient
defence. On the W. side of Winco-
banJc a similar xntrenchment has been
traced as far as Sheffield. It is
probable that these lines formed the
main defences of theBriganteson this
side of their territory. They may
be compared with the strong camps
and lines of defence in the neigh-
bourhood of Catterick. Nearly op-
posite Wincobank, across the river,
is the Roman permanent camp or
stat. of TempUiMrough (Morbium or
Ad Fines ?), defending a ford where a
Roman road, running N. from Chester*
field towards Castleford (Legiolium),
crossed the Don. It was excavated
1877, and among the Roman remains
discovered were a stone inscribed —
'' CohoTB quarta Gallorum,** traces of
a Frsetorium, columns, and a hypo-
caust
[At Blackburn JuncL, a little be-
Snd Brightside, the S. Torkshire
v., between Sheffield and Bamsley,
falls into the Midland. For this line
see the following route. Hie stream
Blackburn here joins the Don.]
Rt of the rly. is the village of
TimiUyj with large collieries. A
canal running at some little distance
from the Don unites Tinsley with
Sheffield.
Passing through some deep cut-
tings, which weU expose the coal
strata, the Holme Collieries and the
blazing furnaces of the Holmes Iron-
works are seen 1. {StaL on the
Sheffield and Rotherham Rly.) Bos-
ton Castle, a tewer built as a shoot-
ing-boxby Thomas Earl of Effingluun,
is conspicuous on a hill rt; and
beyond it, the spire of Rotherham Ch.
Hence the rly. curves round to
5 m. from Sheffield, MaAwough
(Inn: Prince of Wales). Ma^
borough is in effect a suburb of
Rotherham, from which it is sepa-
rated by the Don (Pop. of muni-
cipal bonrough, including both places,
in 1871, 25,087). It is famous
for the Jron-tvorArs (about i m.
from the stat.) established in 1746
by Samuel Walker, who, being left
at the age of 12 an orphan, with 2
brothers and 4 sisters unprovided
for, by his own talents and industry
acquired a large fortune. This
establishment was at one time per-
haps the largest in Europe. Cannon
were cast here during the revolu-
610
Eottte 45. — Botherham,
tionaiy war; and the iron bridges
of Sunderland, Staines, and part of
Sonthwark came from the works.
They are now divided among small
proprietors, and are sorpassed by
others in different parts of the conn-
try. Walker was a friend of the
poet Mason, who wrote the inscrip-
tion on his memorial tablet in the
Wesleyan chapel. There is an In-
dependent Church at Masborongh.
Ebenezer Elliott, the »*Com Law
Rhymer," was born here in 1781.
Across the Don, ( m. from the
Masborou^ Stat, is Kotherham Stat
(The Sheffield and Botherham Rly.
on the rt bank of the Don. Tlus
rly. passes under the N. Midland Rly.
shortly before it crosses the river.)
Boiherham (Irms : Crown ; Royal ;
Ship ; Prince of Wales) is a very thriv-
ing but murky town, trading in iron,
coal, com, horses, cattle, and sheep ;
and one of the chief Yorkshire
markets for the latter. Pop. 24,782.
It stands at the confluence of the
Bother with the Don, which is navi-
gable hence to the Humber. The
chief point of interest at Rotherham
is
The Chureh of All Saints; ''one
of the finest Perp. churches in the
north," says Rickman; and ''of so
great beauty that it gives interest even
to the murky atmosphere of the town ;
with the tall black cones of the Mas-
borough forges for a foreground.'* This
ch. was restored by iSftV G. O. 8eoU
(1873). It is generally assigned
entirely to Thomas Scott (or Rother-
ham), Abp. of York (1480-1501),
who was bom here: but a careful
examination proves that, whilst the
nave, the upper part of the tower,
and the spire, may safely be attri-
buted to him, the lower part of the
tower and the whole of the chancel
and transept arches are of earlier djde,
Windows ^chancel and transepts)
have been userted of various dates.
On the exterior remark the very
beautiful W. front, with its panelled
doorway (now closed), and the great
Perp. window above it, the hood-
moulding of which runs up into a
gable cross; — the S. porch — ^the S,
aisle of the nave (much richer than
the N.), the lofty cleiestonr of the
nave, with pinnacled buttresses be-
tween each bay : the towo*, which has
windows resembling those in the nave
aisles; and the lofty crocketed spire.
The chancel or transepts are lees
worthy of attention than the nave ;
the clerestory windows are late and
very indifferent insertions. The great
£. window is bad Perp. WUhitij the
bold and lofty proportions of the
nave at once strikes us. The paers
"are of a very singular section, being,
in general contour, of an dongated
lozenge shape, the longer section
running N. and S.*' The capitals
are of very slight projection, and
seem designed to "carry out the
ideals of the piers — tiw greatest
possible compression and lightness.*
The present rcx>f of the central
tower is covered with fan tzaceir:
but this tower was ariginally ' a
lantern, and the Dec windows, once
above the roof, now look into the ch.
below them, since the roofs were
raised in the Perp. period. In the
chancel, the sedilia and piscina, and
the niches on each side of the E.
window, deserve attention, lliere is
a hagioscope from the S. aisle. At
the end ox the S. chancel aide was
the Ladv-chi^el, the roof of which
was richly coloured; and retains many
striking and unusual devices, all re-
lating to the Bleased Virgin. In the
N. aisle in the chapel ol St Anne
is an altar -tomb with brasses of
Robt. Swifte (1561), wife and chil-
dren. The screen-work separating
the chancel aisles from the transept^!
seems to have belonged originallv ti-<
the rood-screen. The mont. ai John
Shaw, vicar (died 1672), '« tam Ba^
nabas qnam Boanerges rite habitiB.'
should also be noticed. He va»
an active Puntan, ejected under thp
Eauie 4^.—Wen^ortl SauBe.
611
Act of Unifonuity. In the chancel
is a mural tablet by Flaxman; and
in the nave a mont. to the memory
of 50 persons who were drowned
in 1841, at the launch of a boat in
Masborough.
On the Bridge of 5 pointed arches
over the Don is a plain wayside
chapel, the dimensions of whicn (32
ft by 14 ft.) are somewhat less than
those of the chapel at Wakefield
(40 ft. by 16 ft.). It is, however,
of little architectural interest, though
it does no£ deserve its present degra-
dation. It was for many years used
as a prison.
Bp. Sanderson, whoee Life was
written by Isaac Walton, was bom
at Gilfil Hall in the parish of Bother-
ham.
The Bother, a stream of some
importance, descends from the Derby-
shire highlands. Soiherwood — ^the
hall of Cedric the Saxon — which may
be supposed to have stood in this
neighboorhood, has no real prototype.
Coningsboroueh Castle, also de-
scribed in *Ivanhoe,' is 6 m. from
Botherham. (See Bte. 40.)
Boehs Abbey (see Bte. 47) is 8 m.
S.£. At Wickerdeyj 3 m. W., are
some large quarries, whence are
obtained most of the grindstones used
by the Sheffield cutlers. The ch.,
ded. to S. Alban, is chiefly Norm.
Wentuwtih Bouse and Park (Earl
Fitswilliam) is 4 m. W. of Bother-
ham, and is perhaps most easUy
reached the&ce (unless the tourist
chooses to drive from Sheffield).
The house is always to be seen
in the absence of the family. A
family — ^taking their name from the
place — ^had been settled here from an
early period, and becomes more con-
spicuous toward the beg^ning of the
14th cent By the 16th the Went-
worths had become of groat import-
ance in the county ; and Sir Thomas
Wentworth, afterwards the great Earl
of Strafford, bom in 1593 (in London),
succeeded to a position only second
(if it was second) to that of the
|>owerful family U Savile. Before
he became immersed in public life,
Sir Thomas lived much at Went-
worth, delighting in all country
amusements. '* Our objects and
thoughts,'' he writes to Sir George
Calvert in 1623, '' are limited in look-
ing upon a tulip, hearing a burd sing,
a rivulet murmuring, or some petty
yet innocent pastime." After the
great Earls execution the estates and
honours were restored to his son by
the King. The 2nd Earl, however,
3yroved the last in the male succes-
sion of Wentworth Woodhouse. The
3rd son of the ^eat EarPs eldest
daughter, Lady Kockingham, suc-
ceeded, and assumed the name of
Wentworth. His son became Marquis
of Bockingham ; who was succeeded
by his son, the 2nd and last Marquis
— ^the statesman, who was first Lord
of the Treasury from July, 1765, to
August 1766 ; and again from March,
1782, to his death in July of the same
year. He died without issue; and
Wentworth passed to William Earl
Fitzwilliam, the eldest son of the
Marquis's eldest sister. The very
ancient family of Fitzwilliam had
been settled at Sprotborongh from a
very early date (see Bte. 40); and
the head of a branch from the main
stock was created a peer of Ireland
by James I. The 3rd Baron was
created an Earl by Oeerge I.; and
the drd Irish Earl was created a
Baron of Great Britain, and, in 1746,
Viscount Milton and Earl Fitz-
william.
The Bamsley road, which leads to
Wentworth, after crossing the bridge
over the Don, passes under the r^.
and proceeds by Carr House and
JBarbot Hall (Lord Howard — finely
placed to command the view) to the
village of Orecuborough. The ch.
and school-house here are modem.
Half the sum necessaiy for their
I erection was contributed by tiie Fiti-
612
Route 45. — Wentworth House,
William familj. Passing the " Boman
ridge" (see the present route, anU,
Wincobank), on entering the park
of Wentworth Woodhome a fine
view opens over its lawns and
woods, with a considerable sheet of
water in the hollow. On the height,
rt., stands the Mausoleum erected by
the late Earl to the memory of his
uncle, Charles Marquis of Kocking-
ham, the minister. Within it is his
statue bv NoUekem, surrounded by
busts of Burke (who wrote his
epitaph), Fox, Admiral Keppel, and
others. On the N. side of the park
rises an Ionic column, erected by
the Marquis of Bockingham on the
acquittal of Keppel, who was his
intimate friend.
The house itself was built by the
Ist Marquis of Bockingham, who
enclosed toe older mansion, in which
the great Lord Strafford had de-
lighted, within the new. It lies
somewhat low, but is a ver^ stately
edifice, having a facade of 600 ft.
long, with a fine portico in the
centre. There is, wrote Walpole,
** a pompons front, screening an dd
house ; it was built by the last lord
on a design of the Prussian architect
Both, and is not uRly. The one paur
of stairs is entire^ engrossed by a
galleiy of 180 ft., on the plan of that
of the Colonna Palace at Borne.
The hall is pretty, but low; the
drawing - room handsome." The
house contains some antique sculp-
ture; but its great treasure is the
Collection of PiotureSf including per-
haps the finest and most interesting
Vandycks in England. The princi-
pal are as follows ; —
First Room, Vandyck : 8 children
of the great Lord Strafford — Wm.
afterwards Earl of Strafford; Lady
Anne, and Ladv Arabella Wentworth.
Sir J, Reynolds : Charles Marquis of
Bockingham.
Library. Sir Peter Lely: Lady
Anne and Lady Arabdla Wentworth,
Here, however, the great picture is
Vaad^cVs portrait of Lord Stxafford
dictatmg to his secretary. Sir Philip
Mainwaring. The great Earl is in
black. Sir PhiHp in red. ''This
picture," says Waagen, ''far excels
the usual work of uie master. We
are distinctly shown a moment of
that ominous period. In these serioas
features we reieul all the energy of a
chiuacter devoted to the service of
his sovereign ; at the same time ther
have something tragical in expres-
sion." " Great he sorely was," writes
Hallam, no '' reverer " of Lord Straf-
ford's name, '* since that epithet can
never be denied without paradox to
so much comprehension of mind, such
ardour and energy, such eonrage and
eloquence ; those commanding quah-
ties of soul, which, impressed upon
his dark and stem countenance,
struck his contemporaries with min-
§led awe and hate, and stUl live in
^e unfading colours of Vandyke.**
— (jonsl, Hist,i chap. viiL
GdUery, Lely : Portraits of 2 chil-
dren. Teniers: A rocky landscape,
with peasants— -good. BafaeUe : (oat
attributed by Waagen to Lnweeiuu
dalmola): Virgin and Child. Paltm\
Vecchio : Virgin, with Child holding
the globe; the Baptist pointing to
the Child; and St. Catherine. '*A
beautiful picture, executed in hi::
warmest tones." — Waagen. A. Van
Oftade: A peasant wedding. &
Bosa: Jason giving the dragon the
sleeping charm (this pictore was
etched bv the artist) ; a rocky eoasl.
Sir J. Reynolds: Portrait of the
Countess Fitzwilliam. KandydL' ;
Henrietta Maria; Lord Straffoid in
armour; Binaldo and Armida. Here
is also a portrait of Shakespeare,
copied from an earlier picture bv
Sir G. Kneller, and given by hiiii
to Diyden. He is in black, with
moustache and beard, and an earring
in the left ear.
TeUow Room.
of the Earl of Bockj
; Familj
BmOe 46.— Weniuforih Havm.
613
Drawinq Room. Sir.J.Reffnotdt:
Portrait of the late Earl Fitswilliam
when 4 j&m of aee ^ubbi : Port-
trait of Whistlejaivet (size of life), a
famous winner oi the St L^er.
Vandyck Boom. Vandfck: Lord
Strafford in armour — in hia right
hand is the haton, the left rests on
tiie head of a white dog; a most
noble picture; whole-le]^;th ; life-
size. Henrietta Maria, in Une silk
— she is patting a monkey, held bj
the dwarf Jeffeiy Hudson; whde-
lengtb; life-sise; yery excellent
Ai3ibp. Land; ''of masterly ex-
ecntion in a clear reddish tone.*'
— Waagen. Arabella, 2nd Coontess
of Lord Strafford. (She was a daugh-
ter of the Earl of Clare and sister of
BenzU Holies.) Mutem: Lord Bal-
timore (founder of the colony of
Maryland). I^' Duke of Glou-
cester, son of Ghas. L Janmn (?) :
VUliears, Duke of Buckingham.
AfUe-room, Ldy : Prince Bupert
*< One of the warm, carefully-treated
pictures of his best time." — Waagen:
Sir J, Beynolld$ : The Lif ant Hercules
strangling the scn^pents. Studies
for &e window in New College
Chapel. Quido: Cupid sleepine.
A. Carraeci: Christ crowned witii
thorns.
In another room are some works
by modem sculptors, including a boy
with a hare, and a fisher-boy, by
WyaU: and a baa^elief by CHbaim,
The Cettars are by no means the
least remarkable part of this most
stately mansion, and give a good idea
of the hospitality' whidi is maintained
here after the fashion of olden days.
They extend under the building,
arched and yanlted, like the crypt of
some yast cathedral. That devoted
to ale and beer contains at least 200
huge casks; and the butler rarely
allows any yisitor to quit the house
until he has tested tiie quality of
^e contents. A glass of this amber'
coloured nectar poured from a yener-
lYorhthire.^
able black-jack is by no means to be
despised.
Behind the house is a sort of
wildemesB filled with fine trees. The
gardens are not remarkable.
On some high ground E. of the
house are K«ppeF% Cdiumn and
Hofib&t. BUmdy a lofty building
erected by the 1st Marquis to com-
memorate the peace of 1748. A
yast extent of country is commanded
frcnti it The Matuclmm wae baiH
by the 2nd Earl in hononr of the
Marq. of Rockingham.
The •Chwrek ol Hcif Triniiy is
a beautiful Gothic edifice, erected
1877 by Earl Fitswilliam, in memoir
of his parents, at a cost of 25,000t
Attached to it is the chancel of the cM
ch., rich in monuments, and here the
great Lord Strafford is buried. His
Monument, says Walpole, is " a little
mural cabinet, with nis figure, 8 ft
high, kneeling." There is also aa
altar-tomb, with effigies, for Thomas
Wentworth and wife (1587); and a
mont with kneeling figures for Sir
Wm. Wentworth (1614). An earlier
altar-tomb, with effines, belongs to
a knight and lady of the Gascoigne
family (see Hturewood, Bte. 29), wiQk
which that of the Wentworths was
connected.
Beyond Masboroogh the ily. con-
tinues through the yalley of the
Don, here broad and open. For
some distance a branch r^. belong-
ing to Earl Fitswilliam, and eon-
stracted to oonyey coals from his
collieries near Greasboroush to Shef-
field, runs by the side m the main
line. It terminates at the Greas-
borough Canal, where a wharf and
basin haye been constructed. This
canal communicates through the
river Don with the Humber. The
Birmingham tin-plate works are
passed 1., marked by a group of
smoking chimneys, wHh their glow-
2 L
B^uie ^.-Sheffidd to BrnnOef.
514
ing and smoking fnmaees, and tiotd
Fitzwilliam*8 New Parkgate ooUieiy.
At 2 m. from Masboroogh, Bow-
marsh Stat, aie the Bocking^bam
china-works, where porcelain 4jpo8t
bedsteads have been made. Here
also are large iron- works.
Across the Don, nearly opposite
Bawmarsh, are the picturesque woods
and lawns of Thrybetyh Parity once
the seat of the Beresbys, now m John
FuUerton, Esq. The house, which is
modem, commands a Teiy fine view.
The Beresbys had been seated here
from the 14th cent., until, in 1689,
Six William Beresby succeeded to
the property and gambled it entirely
•way. He became a tapster in the
Heine's Bench priscm. The Thry-
ber^ tradition asserts that he staked
and lost the estate of Dannaby on a
single main. In a lane near the
village of llirybergh is the fragment
of a remarkable cross, covered with
foliage and ornaments of late Norm,
character. It is known as 8L
Leonard 9 Ortm, and tradition
that the heiress of the Normanvilles,
who passed Thrybergh before the
Beresbys, met the ancestor of the
latter famUy at the cross, where they
plighted their vows to each other.
B<^by was on his war to the Holy
Land. Nothing was heard of him
for many long years, and the lady
was aboat to marry another lord,
when she received a mysterioos
message, directing her to visit St.
Leonvd's Cross on a certain night
There she met a palmer, who proved
to be her former lover. Of comse
she married him, and the Beresbys
thus became lords of Thrybergh.
The story is found in many forms
and in many plsces.
Passing the stai at
If m. KUnhwrHf the train soon
reaches
11 m. BwHiion Junet, (For the
rest of the line to Doncaster see Bte.
40.)
BOUTB 46.
SHEFnELD TO BARNSLEY.
(8<mth Torkthire JBZy., 4 tmim
daily.)
Leaving Sheffield from tlie Vic-
toria Stat, the train for a short dis-
tance follows the line of the Shef-
field and Botherham Bly. (see Bte.
45), mxta it turns off N. W. at Black-
bum Junct. From this point as isr
as Wombwell, where it joins the ,
main line between Bamsley and
Doncaster, this branch rly. passes
through a country of hills and val-
leys, of woods and coppices, still, in
spite of collieries and iron-works, re-
taining much of the forest character
which it possessed in the days of
Cedric the Saxon. The glades of
Tankersley or of Wentworth afford
many such scenes as are described
in the opening pages of 'Ivanhoe;'
where "hundreds of broad-heeded,
short-stemmed, wide-branched oaks
fling their enarled arms over a thick
carpet of the most delicious green-
sward; in some places intermingled
with beeches, hoUies, and copsewood
of various descriptions ; in otherB re-
ceding from each other, and f onntag
those long sweeping vistas, in the
intricacy of which the eye delights
to lose itself, while imagination con-
siders them as the paths to yet
wilder scenes of sylvan soUtude.**
Passing the stat. at
2} m. BroughUm Lane, we resch
5i m. Grange Lane Stat Bt is
The Orange (Earl of Effingham), bmli
in 1777, and surrounded by woods.
H m. EoeUiifieid Slat A viUi«e
Baute 4:e.---Eccle8fieldr--T(mkerdey Park.
515
with a fine Perp. Church worth a
Tifiit. "This church," wrote Dods-
worth, " is called, and that deservedly,
hy the ynlgar, the Mjnster of the
Moores, being the fairest church for
stone, wood, glass, and neat keeping
that ever I came in of country
church." The tower is central. The
present buildine is fdmost entirely
Perp.; but a en. was founded here
certainly as early as Henry L (pos-
sibly before the Conquest), and gave
name to the settlement — Ecclesneld,
the church (ecdesia) in the " field "
—a tenn which everywhere in this
district, retaining its true significa-
tion, indicates a clearing in the midst
oi the woods The chancel and tran-
septs of the ch. of Ecdesfield have
been excellently restored by the Bev.
Dr. Oatty. The old woodwork,
including screen and stalls, has been
carefully preserved, and there are
some good modem windows of stained
glass. The plaster and whitewash
ave been removed. In the church-
yard is a memorial for the Bev.
Joseph Hunter, the historian of
Hallamshire, and of Sooth Yorkshire,
who is interred here.
The next stat. is
8 m. (JhapdUHffn. Here are large
collieries, ironstone pits, and (at
ThomcMe) extensive iron - works.
All this country is rich in coal and
iron; and the mines and quarries,
which extend in all directions, have
of conise destn^ed its ancient quiet
and seclusion. But it is still beau-
iifoL The line runs through woods
to
9} m. Wettwood Stat, close to
which is a large colliery. A very
short distance it. is Tankerdey Parkn
with the fragment of its hall, an
ancient seat S the SavUes, Talbots,
and Wentworths. The park in De
Foe'b time was celebrated for some
of the finest red deer and most vene-
rable oaks in Yorkshire; but iron-
atone pits, ooal-smoke, and furnace
! chimneys have sadly marred its
beauties. The red deer have entirely
'disappeared (^ey were removed to
jWentworth I>ark by Lord Fita-
wUliam), and many of the oaks
have also vanished. Here, in 1655,
Sir Bichard Fanshawe translated the
' Lusiad ' of Camoens. He had been
taken prisoner in 1651 after the
battle of Worcester, and was after-
wards allowed to choose his own
residence, provided he did not go 5
miles from the place without leave of
Parliament I^y Fanshawe, in her
curious Memoirs, says that the country
was ^ plentiful and healthy, and very
pleasant; but there was no fruit in
it till we planted some, and my Lord
Strafford says now that what we
planted is the best fruit in the
north.*' There were some enormous
yew-trees in Tankersley Park, in the
hollow of one of which, called Talbot's
yew, a man on horseback might, it
was said, turn about In the midst
of the park, on an eminence, is
a tower called the Lady's Folly, com-
manding a very wide view. Tan-
kersley now bdongs to Earl Fitz-
william.
(WetUiDorih House— eee Bte 45 —
is about 8 m. £. of Ghapeltown Stat
The walk is very pleasant, but no
conveyance is to be had here. Went-
worth is most easily visited horn
Sheffield or from Botherham.)
The country retains the same
general character to
lOf m. BtrdweU Stat, and thence
to
18} m. Doveeliffe Stat. The rly.
winds round Dovecliffe, a stec^
wooded hm, with sandstone quarries,
overhanging the river Dove (which
joins the Deame below Darfield),
and thence proceeds 1^ Aldham
Junct to Wombwell. (For Womb-
well and the line thence to
BanuiUy, see Bte. 40.)
2 L 2
516
Route 47.—Betherham to Bawtry.
ROUTE 47.
ROTHERHAM TO BAWTRY, BT TICK*
HILL (ROCHE ABBEY).
No rlj. traveiBefl this the S.E. cor-
ner of xorkflhire.* There are, how-
ever, coaches (as to which the tourist
shoidd inquire at Botherham) which
run to Tickhill, 12 m. The countrj
is pleasant, without being unusually
picturesque. The most interesting
places on tiie route are Roche Abbey,
uie ch. of Laughton-en-le-Morthen,
and Tickhill Ch., and Castle.
The country immediately round
Rotherham has already been noticed
(Rte. 45). At IfattSy, 6 m. from
Rotherhiun, a road branches S.E. to
Sandbeck Park (2 m. farther), ad-
joining which are the ruin» of JRoche
Abbey. Sandbeck (Earl of Scar-
borough) is a modem house, standing
in a Teiy agreeable park. The ruins
are at the W. end of the ^k, in a
deep, narrow, and very picturesque
valley, one side of which is overhung
by a limestone rock, somewhat re-
calling the rocks that rise on the N.
side of Fountains. '<! saw Roche
Abbey too,** writes Walpole to (?ole
in 1772, ''which is hid in such a
venerable chasm that yon might lie
concealed there even from a squire-
Con of the parish. Lord Scar-
u^h, to whom it belongs, and
who lives at next door, neglects it as
much as if he was afnid of ghosts.
I believe Montesinos' Gave laj in
iust such a solemn thicket, which is
now so overgrown that» when one
finds the sp^ one can scaree find
the ruins.'' It is almost to be desired
that the ruins were stiU in this neg-
lected state; but some time after
they were visited by Walpole, I^«d
Scarborough called in ^Capability
Brown" to "improve" them. Efe
removed all those portions of^ the
ruins which did not satisfy his ideas
of the picturesque, and fonned the
lake which is now seen in connectioa
with them. How much he destroyed
it is impossible to detennine.
JBoc^ Jhbey was founded about
1147, for Cistercian monks, by
Richard de Bu'dli, in conjunctkai
with 2 other proprietorB — Richard
de Buisli, and Richard son of Tur<
gis. It would seem that certain
monks or hermits had (as in the cas^
of Noetel and Eirkstall, Rtes. 38 and
29) already establish^ themselves
in the valley, where they professed
to have discovered a natural crucifix
in the face of the limestone rock.
This was afterwards known as " Our
Saviour of the Rock'* — de Rape —
and it was probably from this fiigure
that the ab1>ey received its name. It
was colonised from Fountains.
The main gateway, and the mins
of the ch. (transepts and part of
chancel — ^the nave nas entirely dis-
appeared), are the principal reUcs of
UcMche Abbey. The gateway is Dec,
and the room above it piobablv
served Tas at Easby, Rte. 25) as the
guest-chamber of the monastery.
The ch. had a low central tower, and
in each transept were 2 small chapels,
repeating the usual Cistercian ar-
rangement, as at Kirkstall and Foun-
tains. These portions are Tran&-
Norm., no doubt of the date of the
foundation, and should be compared
with Abp. Roger*s work at KipoD
(Rte. 22), which they resemble in
general character. The chancel con-
tains some later work, apparentlj
Dec Little is known of the earfr
history of Roche, which was not cn'o
Bouie 47.— LaughUmr^TidJUU.
617
of the wealthier Yorkshire honses,
and none of its abbots seem to have
been men of note. Near the ruins
are the limestone -quarries which
have supplied so much stone (known
as Boche Abbey stone) to YOTkshire
church - builders. Sir Christopher
Wren proposed to use it for building
St. Paul's Cathedral.
The fine ch. of Laughton-m-U'
Morthen — the name is corrunted into
*' Lighten in the Morning, and is
locafij connected with the great dis-
tance at which its spire is Yisible —
is 2 m. across the country, S.W.
from Boche. Le Morthing (perhaps
** Moor-thing," the •* Moar-portton^*)
ifl the ancient name of this district,
extending S. and K to the borders
of the county, and for some distance
N. The ch., which is for the most
part early Perp., with a tower and
▼eiy fine spire, rising to a height
of 185 ft., has been restored by air
O. O, 8ooU, and, out of the way as it
is, well deserves a visit. It abounds
in curious and grotesque carvings,
and seems to have been mainly re-
built in the latter half of the 14th
cent. But the northern arcade is
Norm. ; there is one Norm, window ;
and a portal on the N. side is so
rode and peculiar that it may have
been part of a church built here
before the Conquest At that time
the place belonged to the great Earl
Edwin, the brother of Morcar, and
brother-in-law of Harold; and near
the viDage is the CasOe SiU, with
foundations strongly resembling
those at Wincobai^ (Bte. 45), at
Mexborou^ (Bte. 40), and at Tick-
hill iposf)- There is a high conical
mound, in the ring of a circular em-
bankment, with an enclosed area,
defended by a bank and ditch,
appended to one side of it The
bank is cut through and the ditch
traversed, toward the E.N.E., by a
narrow causeway, no doubt r«n>re-
senting the original entrance, which
may have been over a timber bridge.
It seems very probable that this is
the site of the Saxon stronghold, and
that Laughton, as the chief <* aula *'
of Earl Edwin here, may signify the
"Lagh*— "law-town"— of the dis-
trict
[The Ch. of Thorpe Salvin, 5 m. S.
of ijaughton, and anciently a chapel
in that parish, is remarkable for a
fine late Notdl portal, much enriched ;
and for a large and singular font of
the same date. The font is circular ;
and, besides a representation of the
sacrament of baptian, has figures
apparently emblematical of the four
seasons. In the village are the ruins
of a large Elizabetluin house, once
the residence of the Sandfords.]
A road of about 4 m. will bring the
tourist from Boche to TiekMU, a small
town with a large Perp. ch. and the
fragments of a casUe, founded appa-
rentiy by Boger de Buisli Boaa arter
the Conquest, but afterwards enlarged
and strengthened. Like Conings-
borough, Tickhill Castle had a circu-
lar keep, placed on a mound, with an
outer balhum to which there was but
a single entrance, strongly defended.
Of this keep only founoations and
some fragments of walls remain. The
mound and the line of the outer walls
probably represent the foundations
of an earlier fortress, and resemble the
works at Langhton, and elsewhere.
The Church is fine, in Peip. style,
founded 1360 bv Wm. de Es^eld,
Seneschal of Holderness to Queen
Philippa. In an elegant chuitry,
lighted by a flamboyant window,
are the effigies of him and his wife.
The nave has a lofty clerestory, and
there is some old glass in windows of
S. aisle. There is a very fine altar-
tomb, with effigies of a Fitswilliam
and his wife, brought here, according
to Leland, from the ch. of the Austin
Friars/ The tower is of the early
part of the 14th cent ; the S. side a
litUe later, and the rest of the 15th
cent
518
Soute 47,—Tickhai.
Nottingham and Tickhill were the
only oatSes that held oat for John
on the return of Richard L from his
Austrian captivity. Tickhill, during
the civil war, was held for the King,
bat sarrendered after MaistcMi Moor.
The keep was then *< slighted" by
order of Parliament. The gateway-
tower remains, and is apparently of
earlier date than the rest of the castle.
It is, in Mr. G. T. Ckik's judgment,
an original and early Norm, stmc-
tare, tiie iQiper part of which is
nnaltered, whue the lower has been
marked by a Dec. gateway, witl
portcallis-groove and pointea ajcL
In Ihe co^ besides otner bnildings,
was a chapeL An old oak door oat-
side the gatehonse, with the inscrip-
tion. *< Peace and grace be to tms
place," may have belonged to it. The
N. side of the castle nas been con-
verted into a modem dweUing-bonse.
The Yoikshire border is eroBsed
close beyond TickhilL A road of 4
m. nms across the projecting comer
of Nottinghamshire to JBantrtry (see
Rte. 1).
( «19 )
INDEX.
abbot's HOITBB.
Arnolds Hooes, i^.
Aberford, 481.
Acklam Wold, 128.
Ackwortb, Bchool, ehwch,
J6a
VaxK xwidflDice of Hr.
Peel. 36a
Addineham, j8f.
AddreboroQi^, |x8.
Adel, chTUOi, Bomaa re-
nudDB, JT<k
Adlave, Balph, fimnde an
AngusUnlaD priory, 464.
AdUngfleet, 90
*« AdoraUon of the Kings,"
tll^ by Mabose, i6j.
Adwalton, 457.
Moor, battle of. 457.
Adwiek-le-Street, 8. 352.
Alk7 HilU 384-
Alnderby Steeple, |oi.
Aire rivCT and Talley, 9, j6o,
Aire and Goole canal, 9.
Airedale Oollege, 417.
Aitkin. Dr., Birthplace, 76.
Alan the Red. first Earl of
Richmond, his nuuoon in
YoricsMie, J26.
Albemarleb lords of. I2f .
Alberts Abpi, his basUica at
York, 2a
Aloock, JohOb Blabop of Sly,
Alculn at York, 69.
Aldboroag^ (Holdemess).
church, fine monnment,
1x8.
(the Roman Isorlnm),
plan and position, azx:ient
nnportanee, 294; Boman
remains, **Mnaeam Iso-
rianum.** representatiyes
in MrUameni, chnrch, 255.
AVIby Park, 126.
Aldham Junction, 474.
Aldrow, x«4.
AlfnA, Ung of Northnm-
hirla,sapposed tomb of; 148.
Alfired'Bfiole,x66.
ABTHUB.
Attertcn, effigies and brass in
the cbnrcb, 299.
Atmes GUfh^ Great and
LttUe. 267, i78.
Almondbnry Qunp, 451 ;
fine yiew. 452; Tillage,
dinrdi. 452; remarkable
inacrlptlon romd the nave,
452.
Aln. 218.
Alpaca fitbrlos* 426.
Alum-working first practised
in Ekigland, 217.
Alum-works at Sandsend,
202 ; foMlls found In the
quarry, 202.
Aimed, 115.
Alvin, muiderer, scene at his
condemned sermon, 117*
Amplefiyruk, church. Bonk*
Oath. ooUegek 219.
Angler's Arms inn, 190.
Anglians, incursions m; xIt.
Angram, 27J.
Anley, 407.
AB^oW- of T«**l«.
ApperlqrBrUge,425.
Appleby ttal, 41J.
Appletou'le-Moors, 252.
Roebuck, 84.
—■ le-Street, 242.
Aram, Eofleoe, story oi; 264 ;
his Urtiiplaoe, sketch of
Ua career, 272.
Ardslqr. scene of colliery
accident, Dee. 18M, 472;
sUt., 474 ; Junction, 457.
Arkengartbdale, lead-mines
In hills borderinib 334.
Ailde beck, jij.
Arks^, chundi, hospital, 8.
Armley, 424.
House, 424.
Amcliffe, 20i, 2x5, 199.
Arram, 147.
Arras, i|i.
Artbington Hall, 376.
Junct. Stat., 175.
Arthur and his Knights, le-
gend concerning^ '^'9^
Ascbam, Roger, his birth-
place, 294.
AaluHall, and fionlly, JJ5.
,CristofiBr, bis adventure
at Skipton Castle, 391.
, Rnbert, leader in the
•'Pilgrimage of Grace,'*
zyilL 7; his home, 132.
Askeme^78.
Asto^UHngof ICaaon the
AS&Si,
at the tomb of
St. Johi) of Beverley, in.
Attarcliff. 500.
Attermyre Gufb, carem in,
A^Hck, 125.
Auburn, 151.
Aughton, IJ2.
Augustin^ St, Pulpit, 91.
Austerfel^ h
Austhorpe Lodge, Skneaton's
birthplace, 172.
Avnouilit ▼lew from the
nrage, 1x6 ; chnrch, J17.
Ferae, jx6.
Ayton, X79h 2Xi, 2x6.
Bamhaw, the Apostle of the
Peak,5D2.
Bain, river, 317.
Baintarldge^ 317.
Balnton,i4S.
Baker, J. G., on the trap-
dyke of Yorkshire, xl.
Balder, river, J48.
BUderdale. 148.
Balderrtiv, church, 299.
Parfc,iao.
Bain, 9.
Balsover, Thos., his di»>
covery of the art of silver
pl|^ig497.
Bankfleld, 44X.
BarbotHaU,5xr,
Harden Tower, J90.
Barf, animal renalns ftond
hi the, 15X.
520
IVDSX.
BABIOBD,
Barrord, }j6.
Bftrmiton, chnrcbf
meuta, remains it nuuior*
hoose. 151.
Barnard OmUa, J17; iltaa-
tion, chardi,rain8of casUe,
J 17 ; view from Bracken-
bury's Tower, escaniona
* from, J 10.
to Middlfitoii-lD-TeeB-
d&le, 148.
Bamborough, <A>nroh with
curious moQUBenta, 478.
Bamby-OQ-Don. 8|.
Bamoldswick. Clsterdan ab-
bey at, J9J.
Bamadale, district of, 79.
Bamsley, 472 ; manafaciaras,
472 ; church, park, 471 ;
canaI,47J.
Barton, 02.
Hii i5«.
Ie-Street,a43.
Barwlck-in-Iameteb remark-
• able earthworks al* 482,
BashaU.414.
Bastldes, plan of, 0|.
Batl^, tin shoddy - trade.
BafetersbyJnncLfUi^ 212.
Adwalton Moor, 457.
Boroughbridge, 251
Ferrybridge, 15, 8x.
Flamborougb Head, 186.
Hatfield Chase, 86.
Msrston Moor, 256.
Vyton (the White Bat-
tle), 256.
SherburD,82.
Stamford Bridge, 125.
the Standard, 225.
Towtoii,484.
Wakefleiarfw-^fta
Bangh Fell, J2i.
Bawto7,2.
Bay Town, loj.
Beamaley Beaoon, J85
Bcckhiiles, 195.
Beckwith, Dr., bis tom^ 28.
Bedale, joi ; Interesting
church, stained glass.
monuments, effigies of the
FltiaUns, joi, jol. .
Hall, J02.
Bedford, 76*
Beelbrd, 151.
Beeston. 417.
Beggar's Bridge, 20j,
B«U Busk. 401.
Bempton, 184.
Beaingbrough Hall, 74.
Benedict, a monk of Autnn,
monastery at Selby ftmitd-
edby.ii:
BOUIONHALL.
Bennett, W. S^ musldan, 502.
Ben Bhydding, j8j.
Bentt^, Richard, crltle, his
birthplace, ^2, 461.
Berry Brow, 490.
Bessemer, Mr. Henry, his
proocBs of s^eel -making
described, 504-506.
Be8wick,i47.
Bethel, ** Uameless
BeTorlttF: Btet. Hi {deri-
vation of the name, i j j ;
ooUege, s^ ; history, i J4 ;
worthies, 115; Minster,
IH-141; St. Mary's
church, 141; North Bar,
14)'
Minster: site, iJ5s
burning of former churdi,
IJ5; architectural details,
im; choir, 116$ staUs,
ijo; Percy shrine, 1^7;
L*dy-cbspel. Percy chan-
try, ij8; sanctuary, nave,
IJ8, 1^; exterior, 140;
dimensions, 141.
— -^SL John oC pketch of
Us Uibb lii ;. his shrine,
IJ8.
to Bridlington. 15a
Bewerley, 271.
Bierli^HaIU4j6.
BUbeny resenroir, bunting
of, 491,
Btlborough chuzch, 84.
BUlinge, 425.
Bllsdale^ 212, 247.
Joseph, his birth-
place, 461.
Blngl^,427.
BtadnU HslU 154.
Birdwell, 515*
Birkl^, 229.
Btrk Crag, 267.
Birkdale, J51.
Blrkln church, 82.
BlntaU,4^
Blxstwlth. 269.
Biahopdale, ji|.
Bishop 8 WUion, 124.
Blshopthorpe, 71.
Black Beck Vale, 180.
Blackburn function, 509.
Black Fors, 185.
Blackstone Edge. 441.
Blakey House, 21a
Blakey-topping. 194.
Blayshaw Bents, 27J.
0111,272.
Bollaod, llBrest of, 421.
BoltOlU brames in the
church, 421.
— HaU, Heoiy VI. a^42o;
reUoB of the king, 421.
BBADtsr.
Bolton-cQ-^waie, 126.
Castle, great cactis of
the Scropes, Its history,
114; description, ji 5; trsr
dlUon of Mary Qoeen of
Soots connected with. ir6.
Bolton HaU, Scrope porttaita,
JX|.
Percy, diorch, stained
^bsB, monuments, 8;.
— Priory: sitiiatk», hi»>
torr, tradition ooimeeted
with, 185; the cbQi^
the chief telle, ^7; re-
mains of the coBTCiitnal
, buildings, ;88 ; ohurehymrd
andprioiy barn, ;88.
— — Hall, woods and walks,
;88;park, 189.
BoltoQ-itpon-Deaae, 77-
Bone-cavern of KlririlaV*,
248.
Bonner, Blahop, his rectory.
Booth Ferry, 106.
BoToiighbridM, 151; «»-
elent stone Mia, 251 ; its
parliamentary rcpreaaate-
tives, 254.
Boston, 487.
Spa, 487.
BosvUe, Charles, cfalef of the
nortliem gipde^. his grave.
BouIby,ao8.
Boulder^stonei^ 146.
Bowes (the •Lavatne" of
tlie F^*in^»t% the ** delldbt-
ftal village of Dotbeboys"),
J44: ehnrch sad choreh-
yard. J44;cs8Ue, 144, i45;
lV«p[*Bii7^ remalna, 145*
Bowet. Abp„ his tomb, 42.
Bowfell, 120.
Bowling Hall, 4^6.
Ironworta^ 4 j6.
Bqy of ^gnmood, tradition
of. j86.
Boyle, Richard, his biiOi-
Boynton, Sir Henry, 149.
Braochium, supposed stte of,
BrMeweII,i96.
Bradford, 410; sitnatioii, his-
tory, trade, 411 ; the old
town, church. 412 ; public
buildingB, 412, 4ii : oesae-
Peclhtfk,4n.
'JnnctiOB,45o.
, [annadnke, last abbot
of FouBtaln% 288.
— — Atfk,469.
k WlUiain, the -Toifc-
shireCHittC'iJi.
IHDEX.
621
Bradihaw, regidde, tradlUoa
M to his boiUlopUuM^
BnJfertoQ, 151.
Br«Ilh«r«ite, Blehud (« Dap-
nnr Dick," or *« Drunken
Bttoaby "> htsBMoument,
12 «.
Bramab, Jotepb, teUet to^
BramLaU, Abp, his birth-
placM$9.
Brainbaiii,487.
PMk.4«7,488.
Bramhope Toanel, i7|.
Bcunlegr atat.. 410.
Bnndoo. iAdy Eleanor, her
eacftpe ftom Skiptoo, J91.
Bnuadftlie, 212, 249.
BraacUranon, flbnrcfa, bcaaa-
ei»i5i.
Brajrtoa Btrl^ 15 ;' Gburch,
. 194,248,
BlidlillgtOll* 186; Prlorr,
histoiy of; i8*j; churdi,
188; 189; oelebritlesL 189.
BriffantM^the,xUL
BrlghooML 469.
Briggis Heniy, mathemati-
ctan, his birthplace, 44J.
BriflfhMdflk $08, $09.
Bf^paaU BankSk 341.
Brimham Crags, tt9.
Hall, 27a
Brodcadakb 81.
BrockholoB jnnctkm, 491.
ftmnpton, i8x, 229*
— k John of, i8x. >of.
BroQtS ftmily, notice of,
428.
Broom Hall, 507.
Brotbertoo. 82.
Brotton, 2j6.
Broagb,90.
— -ma, Btoined glass, pio-
toree^ anttqnitles, 124, 125.
Brouffhton Hall, ^96.
Ian^5X4-
Browsholme, 424.
Bnioe fimilj, memorials of,
217.
Babwith, chnrch, 112.
Bochan, aathor of'DomeBtte
Medicine^' 502.
Bnckden, 401.
— - Birks, 401.
Pike, 401.
Buckingham, Qea Tllllers,
dnke o( scene of his
deetb-^Pope's aooount of,
tnoorreot, 249.
Buekini^bainshue^ fj^^Mt,
dnke of; 379.
Bofthorpe, 128.
OABTHUSIAN.
Bolmer, Sir John and Ladj,
ezecated, 214.
Hill, 158.
Bnrdale, 154.
Burgh WalUfl, 80.
Barley, 182.
Bnmby, 129.
Burnet, Tbce^ his biifhplsoe^
22?.
BnmaaU, 191.
Bmrstwiek, iii.
Burton Agnee^ Hall and
cbnrdi, 149.
"- Oonstaide stat, 122.
mansion and parl^ 121.
Head, 212.
Park. jo6.
Pldsea,iii.
—•Salmon, 82.
^, West, 114.
k Dr., his blrthplsc^ 461.
BoTTtborpe, 128.
Basby Hall, pictures, 214.
Buttertube Fub, 122, 334.
Byland Abb«F» foundation
and hIslMry, 2^7; tS'
Uon, 2i8, church, 218.
Cadibt, 478.
GndmoQ, tradition of the ori-
gin of his panphrsse of
the Scriptures, 201.
Oalcsrla, me of, 48a.
Galder. iItot. j6o^ 444, 449^
457; vale of the, 445, 449b
Snout, )§a,
Qdverley, 425.
Hsll, scene of the
' Toitshire Tragedy,' 42^
i Walter, preand to
death, 425.
Gam Fell, 401.
Gambodnnun^ site of; 45}.
Gamps Moon^ fine cedan,
79-
Gkmpsall, church, library,
and yicarage. 78, 79.
Cannon Hall, 491.
Cargo Fleet stot, 2 }2.
GsrUsIe, Earl of, 16a
Oariton Hall, loj.
Carlyle, Thoe., his account of
the battle of Marstoo Moor,
258.
Oainaby, X5a
Carr, architect his birthplace,
466.
— ^ House, residence of the
Childers family, 8, 511.
Carthusian Order hi Eng-
land, 227.
OLArBAX.
Castlefiord, j6ok
Castle Howard: Walpole's
desorlpiion of; 160; pic-
tures, 161-165; museum,
gardens, 165 ; mansoleum,
165.
stat,t6a
Hlll,4y2.475.
-^ Levlngion, 215.
Oastleeiead, 271, 272.
Castleton, 2x0; walks fhmi,
2ia
Cstaraetonium, site of; i24.
Gathosrt, Earl, 221.
Gatrlgg Koroe^ 115.
Cattal, 259.
Gatterick, bridgSb jij ; bap-
tisms in the Swale at, by
Auilinai^ 124; church,
stained glassy brassea^ J13 ;
earthworks, J25.
Cautler Spout, 121.
Gave OasUe, ox.
Oawood, Archbishop's pslsee^
If.
CawtlMcne, Bomsncsmps at.
i9i.
Gayton Bay, 177.
Stat, 182.
OeaddaCSUCbadofLichfleld),
Oedd, monssteiy at Lasting-
ham founded by* 250.
CeddsWel],2vi.
Chaloner, Sir tlxA, the work-
ing of alum in England
begun br, 2x7 ; excommu-
nicated by the pope, 21?.
Chambers, marine artist
his btrthplace, 198.
Chantry, Sir F^naads, notloe
of; 502.
Chapel House^ ^99^
ChapeUe-Dale^ 4x7.
Ghi^town, 515.
Charles L,lsys siege to Hull,
100; St Red Hall, Leeds, |66.
Chatburn, 421.
Cherry Burton, ijj,
Chevet Hall, 481.
Gholmley, Sir Hugh, Us dc
fence of Scsrborougfa cas-
tte,i72.
— », Sir BIchsid, efflgy of,
1901
Chop Gate, 21 1.
ChrMianity, Its IntrodooUon
into Yorkshire, ziv.
Church Fenton, 8|.
Oarfbrth, 482.
Ctapham, 4x4.
Gave. 414.
Junction, 4x1.
fhmily, tndltioD as to
their tatenneok, 187.
522
INDEX.
fff.APVUL
Clarke^ Danid, Mene of his
murder, 264.
Clavf>reux Ga!>tle» 319.
Clayton staL, 77.
Gleckheaton, 4J6.
Gteveland, district o( 209.
Port^aja.
Cliffe, lof
Clifford, family; posseBsors
of LoodeaboroQgb, 129; of
SUpton, |o^-;9^
— -, Lord, alain at Dlnting-
dale, 81,484.
— , Heniy (th« * Shepherd
Lord "X hit lift at Bar-
den, joa
i Lady Anne^OonnteM of
Pnnbroke^ restores Bar*
den, J90; sketch of her
Uftk 59I-19J-
,vifiaBB,^X-
CloCh-trade of Leedib 361;
mannfkctore, J67.
CloQghton Wyke, 177.
Goal and colUeriM^ zsxli,
zxzilL
Coatbam, East, 233.
Oobden, Richard, his school,
J48.
Oock, river, 482, 481, 485.
Oockhill mines. 274.
Cockshot Hill, 202.
Colfl, heathen priest, oonrer-
sion oi; I ja
Coleridge, Hartley, at Sed-
berglL ni.
OotaM^ xiver, 450^ 455 ; valley,
ColviliB of the Dale, air John,
2J8.
Oommondale^ 2x2.
Congreve^ dramatis^ his
birthplace^ 488.
and hliitory, 475 ; descrip-
tion, 475-477; tomb of
Hengirtk so called, 477;
chnrch, 477.
Conlstone, i99.
Cooonlev, 430.
Constable, family of, I2J.
— , Barton, 105.
Constantino the Oreat^pro-
clalmed emperor at Tork,
69-
Constanttns Chlonis, his re-
sidenoe and death at York.
Gqjtafai, drcmnnavl-
jnwr, at Whitby, 19S ; «t
Staithes, 208 ; his oolomn,
212; his birthpUoek me-
nraruds ofc 2^2.
Oookridgeadl,J75.
0U8W0RTH.
Cooper Bridge Junction. 468.
Copley tombs at Sprot-
boroagh, 478.
Copmanthorpi^ 84.
Cornelian B^y, 177.
Cotheratooe, J48; cheese^
148; roina of castle, J48.
Cotter, river, j20.
CottingMm, 1^6.
Conndl of the North, zx.
Cover, river, J09.
Covertiridge, 105.
Coverdale, Jio.
. Miles, Bishop of Exeter,
his birthplace, 310.
Coverham, 109.1
Abb^, mini of, J09;
effigies, 100.
Cow and Calf rocki^ 184.
Cowlck Hall, loj.
Cowthorpe, venerable oak at,
Cowton, 220.
Cozwold (Sterne's vicarage),
236; ehmrdi, monoments,
»17.
Craooe, 198.
CrakehsU, 304.
Crathorae. 215.
Craven, Sir William, Lord
Mavor, 191 ; his son the
first Earl of Craven, 191.
, deanery of, 392.
Fkolt, th^ ziii. 406.
Crayke, Rdns of castle, tradi-
tion of St Cathbert, 218.
Cresacre, Peidval, and wlite,
cariooB monnments of,
478.
Cres^, Hngh, church his-
torian. 461.
Creswick, J, artist 49 j ; his
birthplace, 502.
Criggleston, 471.
Crimble viaduct, 454.
Croft, 229.
Croflon, 3wi
Cromwell, Oliver, relks of,
tradition concerning his
remains, 217 ; at Maraton
Moor, 258; at Ripley Osa-
tle, 269; stoiy oi; at Nor-
ton Conyen, 295 ; his letter
to the Conncll oonoemlng
the BtcgB of Ponteflract
Castle, j$7 {memorials at,
at Fsmley Hall, |8x; por-
trait at Weston HaU, i82.
Cronkley Fell. jjo.
Scars. 15a
Cropton. 194.
Cross Gates, 481.
Crow Oarth, 151.
Codworth, 48a
Cosworth Houses 8.
Cotler, Sbr John, noOoe U,
by Pope, 178.
Cutlers, Oompaoy ct, 49B.
Ctttleiy, great mart o( 498.
Dalby
Dacu Banks; 269.
-,Lord, slain atTowtoo,
85 ; his monument^ 485.
iby Beck, 194.
Dale, the, valley and hamlet,
2i8.
beck, 416.
End, 411.
Dalton Junction, M9b
Hall, 144.
Holme, X44.
Danby Beacon. 209.
Castle, 209.
— churdi, 211.
Danes, their aettieincnls la
Northumbria, xv,
Dane^ Dyke, 184.
Dantborpe Hall, xi8.
Danum, andent; site of, j.
Darfleld. diureh,efflglei^ obe-
lisk in dmrd^ranl, 480.
Darley, 269^
Darltagton, 229.
^to Barnard Cssile, 336.
Damley, Henry, his birth-
Dartmotlth,*EBrl at, 491-
Darton, church, 472, 49J.
515.
Dawnay flUnily, the, loj.
Deame, riviy, 47a. 477. 5"
Deams ana-^ Dove oai
Defoe, D^,; at HaUfkx.
442; hla pasaMe of Black-
stone Edge, 4^4; <>«CTip-
tion of the odipsny near
HaliihZ.445. V
Delffhton stat.. 454- \
De U Pole, tonily oi;^
Denby Dale, 491.
Dent, 41J.
Dentdale, |2X. \
Denton Faik, ^2. ^
De QnfaK^, I^ter, 104.
Derwent, river, 105, 126 ; val*
1^, 160; trfbotartes, 160.
X80; source and ooune,
X68.
Devil's AxTows, ifi.
Devonshire Arms hotel, |8$.
Devonshire, Duke vi, 188.
Dewsbury, 449: dmrch, 440;
sculpture^ Saxon ton^
INBKX.
523
DiALBcrrs.
Dialects of Torkdiln, zItII.
Dldereton Hill, jl6.
Dimllngion Hill, 11$.
Bodworth, 494.
, Roger, aoUqiiaiy, his
birthpUoe. 242.
- Dog of Aid bladef,'' at Dan-
ooinbe Pu-k, 145.
Dolbea, Abp^ hig toinl>, 42.
Dolman, Thomai^ monament
10,117.
Don river and valley, 57, 89,
475. 477. 49*. 49J. 49^508,
5U; rise ot 49a.
DonoMter; hotels and ran-
ways, j; sltuaUonand his*
tory, J ; 8t George's ch^
painted glasa, organ, com-
parative cost, 4, 5; St.
James's Chmdt, 5; Cbrlsl
chaicb, 5 ; races and raoe-
oonrse, 6 ; historT, 7 ; rail«
way ISutoriea, 6; ancient
oross, bniklisgs* 6; ezoor-
sion, 7.
to York, 78.
«*Dothe1)oyB,''344.
Dove, river, 474, 5x5 ; vaUej.
15a
Doveelilfe, 515.
Dowkabottom Gave, animal
and human remains, 400U
Dowae, Lord, aoo, 295, joo.
Draeon, legend or a, 208.
"Dragon of WanUey/' 495,
496.
Dragon's Den, 495.
Drax priory, site ot, 105.
Driffield, Great, Its antiqui-
ties, 148; chords bas-
relief, 14&
, Little, 148.
Drightllngton,457.
Dropping Well at Knares-
borongfa, 262.
*■ Drunken Bamaby," montt*
ment ot 325.
DadmanstoQe, ^f a.
Duncombe Fknc, sculpture,
pictures^ park, fine view,
244.
Donford Bridge, 49a.
Dunsley,ao2.
Don«tan's stat., 410.
Dutch lUver, the, loj.
EAOixscuFn Junot, 115.
Kasby, abbey and church,
jjt; parish church, j|2 ;
the Abbot's Blm, ij2.
• Moor. 212.
. 4«9.
XBirnr strest.
Ea8glUKiriE,4i9.
Easington, 115.
Eaatngwold. 118.
EastOoathsm, aij.
Baster oontroveray, ^nod to
determine the, 20a
Eastrington, 108.
East Wltlon. JIG.
Eastwood, 446.
Ebberston, 168.
Eboracum, andont, 19.
Ecdesfleld, church, 514.
Eden, river, jij.
EdstoDe,348.
Edward L, plan of his towns.
94.
— — IV, story of his im-
prisonment in HIddleham
Castle, and escape, jo8;
gains the battle of Towton,
484.
Edwin, fliBt CShristlan king
of Northumbria. his con-
version, 19 ; his death. 86 ;
his conferences with Paul-
inuSft and conversion, lio^
III.
* Edwin and Iknma,' grave
of the lovers In the poem,
144-
igiBtighMn, Earl Otf 514.
Eggleston Abbey, miiis of,
J46'
Eglin's Hole, 271.
EgUston Hall, J49.
Egum. Bridge^ aoj ; diarch,
Eldwick, Boman remains at^
381.
EUleda, Prinoess, abbess of
WUtby, 201.
EUand ftmlly, story of an
extraordinary Cend In the,
1.470.
'.169^470.
New Hall, 470.
Elkrbecl^ stream and f^en,
niory, 1
of.
195-
Ellerker,
BUerton
Elliott, Ebeneaer. 'Corn-Law
Rhymer," notice of, 50a,
5x0.
Elloug^ton, 91.
Elmete, andent district ot
368,482.
Elstemwick. 118.
EUibeay, priory founded at,
remora to Bolton, i86^
I9i>
Onsall, Sooth. ;52-
Brewash Yalley, 77*
Brmyn Street, 9^ 79^
FEKAT.
Esertck. Ghxurdi, 16.
Bilk, picture^ x&
Esbolt Hall, 425.
Ekhton Hall, extensive li-
brary, pictures, 40J.
Esk river, geology of hlU
country near, 19;; at
Whitby, 197; In Wester-
dale, 211.
valley, iron blast tar*
naoee,i96.
Eston, Stat and quarries^
2J2.
Nab, 214.
Etton, 144.
Ettv, WiUiam. his btxfh-
plaoe, 71 : his description
of Hull, 96.
Exley, 47a
Facsbt Hm, 214.
FslrliuEflimi]T,84.
, Edward, translator of
Tasso, his birthplace, j8a.
, Ferdlnando, Lord, his
monument. 8|; his de*
fence of Hull, lox; his
birthplace, 182.
•^— ^ llios.. Lord, his monu-
ment, 179; his residenoe,
182.
k Gen. Sir Thoa^ portraits
of him and his win, 240 ;
POntefract besteaed by,
J56; takes Leeds, J69;
memorials of; atFamley
Hall, 381, J82; his birth-
place, i82t his grave, 84.
Fairy Dell, 185.
Falcon Gltnt^ 351.
FsUihg Forces 197.
Fangfbes, 127*
Fknshawe, Sir Bicfa, trans-
lator of Ounofn^ C15.
Farfleld Hall, 385.
Famdale^ati.
Famley Hall, ooQectSon of
pictures, landscapes and
drawings by 'l*nmer. In-
teresting memorial^ 380^
Tyas, 453.
Fanconberg tombs In Ooac-
w<^ church, 237.
Faux, Guy, his bird
career, 71.
Featherstone, 360.
Felisklrk, church, flfflgias,
stained glsas, 221.
Felkirk, 480.
Felon Sowtt of Bokel^, 343.
Fenay,454.
524
IKDKX.
FEBBTBBn>OB.
Ferrybridge, battle at. 15, 81.
Ferriby, 91.
FererBhamt Earl of, 244.
Fielden, John, his mammoth
cotton-mllU 446.
niefl, manaftcture of, 507.
SUer , 181 ; itc ancient im-
portsDoe, flsherie^ church,
182.
Brig. 181.
Ffanber. 119. 146. 154.
Fini^iaU Lane stat^ 30$.
Fhber, John. Bishop of
Bodiecter, ijj.
Fiihlake^ viUage and church.
88.
Fltxalan, Str Brian, his monn-
ment at Bedale, loi.
Fltsroy, Henry, son of Henry
VIII., firat Duke of Rich-
mond, m
Fltswalter. Lord, slain, 8k.
FluwilUam, Ewl, 511.
tombs at Spcotborough.
418.
FizbT Hall, 451.
Flamboron^, Ghurch. caves,
lighthouse, 184.
Head, x8j.
Flashy Fell, 397.
-— Hall, 40J.
Flatt Wood. J19.
Flazman, John, bJs birth-
place, 71.
Flaxton, 156k
I1emln& Blahop of linooln,
" Flying Chflder^" a
Foggathorpe, iji.
Folkton, t8i.
Fordun, the first writer who
mentionB Robin Hood, 79.
Forest Kirk, 15a
Forge Valley and British
mp.179.
I, nver, 156.
Foes.
GIII.JIJ.
Foesant family. |.
Foeton - le • Clay, Qydney
Smith's IMng, 158.
Fountains Abbey. 286;
ground-plan, 287 ; founda>
tion and history, 288 ;
beauty of the site, 288 ;
Tenerableyews, 289; gate-
house, 289 ; conventual
ctanrdi, 28^291 ; chapter-
bouseb 291 ; Hall of Hcas,
kitchen, reibctory, 291 ;
Abbot's House. 292 ; great
cloister, dormltoiy. guest-
house. Infirmary, 292 i dis-
solution and subsequent
fiNtunes, 292.
Hall. 29J.
OnXIHO.
Fox, Oeoxge, imprisoned at
Scarborough, 172 ; his
preaching at Sedben^, }2i;
and at Warmsworth, 478.
Freebrough Hill. 211.
Fremlngton.iJi.
Ftewen. Archbishop, hli
tomb^i.
Friar's Wood, 401.
Fridaythoipe. 128.
Frith-stol, in Beverley Min-
ster, zj8.
Fryston Hall, 81.
Fiyup Dale, 209.
Fuller, his character of York-
shire, vii.
Fulneck, Moravian settle-
ment at^ 41a
e
OAmosn, j|6.
Qattres. forest of. 72.
Oanton. 168.
Oarforth stat, 482.
Gargrave. tradition of ita
churches, 402.
— - House, 40^.
Oarsdale, J20.
beck, 121.
Garside Valley. 41 j.
Garton, 118.
on-the-Wolda, 1 jj.
Gascolgne, Sir William, tonb
and efllgles. scene In Shak-
speare oonceming, 177.
Gaskell, Mrs., her notice of
Haworth and Its nel|^-
bours, 428, 429.
GastriUs, 199.
Gateklrk Cave, 418.
Gaveston, Piers, beheaded,
172. 154-
Gawthorpe Hall, seat of the
Ga8oolgne^ 177.
Gearstones^ I19, 418.
——Inn, 418.
Gent. Thos.. his retldenoe,
11-
Geology of Yorkshire, Iz.
George-a4}reen, 458. 466.
Gbeast. Edmund, Byiop of
Salisoury, 225.
3ibbet-IaWr4
Glbbet-Ia<^4i8, 441, 442.
Giggleswlck, church, 407 ;
grammar-school, distin*
gulshed scholars, 408 ;
well, 408.
Soar, 408.
Gilderiome Street. 449.
Gin beck, 191.
Glllamoor. 211.
Gllltng (near Syland) itat
and church, 2^9.
GRKETLAND.
GQlIng to Pickering. 241.
Castle, seat of the Fair*
fitzes, 240; stained glaa^
portnJtflL 240.
^^ (near Ricnmond). ita an-
tiquity, church, jif
Gisbume^ 4x9 ; c
stained glass, 420.
Park, pictures. ^ ;
white cattle, andent drink-
ing-hom, 42a
Glalsdale, 204.
GUnville, Ranulpb de, Juati-
claiT, his birthplace, jiou
Gledctone House. 397.
Goathland MIU stat, 195.
, Vale ot 195.
God's Bridge, 345.
Gdcar, 455.
Viaduct, 454.
Goldsbonragh, 207
— -k effigies in tne cSiurch,
discovery of old coina.
jaall,26a*
Goodmanham, scene of flie
conversion of Edwin of
Northumbrian XM 'Ji t
church. i?x.
Ooole docks, 9a
Gordale Scar, rare plants.
Gormire.222.
Gower. Sir John, the poe^
his Urthplaoe, 158; the
family settled at Slttcft*
ham. i$8.
Gowthwaite Hall, 272.
Goxhlll, X2|.
Goydon Pot, 272.
Graham, Sir Richard, legend
conoemlnit 295; moon-
ment to, 296.
Grange, the, 5x4.
Grange Laa^ 5x4.
Grantley Hadl. pictnrea,
291.
Grasslngton. lead^nfoes on
the moor, J98.
Gray, Archb., his tomb. 1$.
Greaabonrogh. 51 1.
Great Driffield, 148.
Houghton, 4iBa
— — Smeaton, 229.
Green Hamerton, Hony lY.
at. 259.
Green. John, Blahop of Ely,
Greenfield. 4«6w
i Archbishop, his tombw
28.
Greenhow Hill toad-
«7J.
454.
INDEX*
525
OBETA BRIDGE.
GrcU Bridge, )i6i rirer,
Grewelthorpe, 294.
Otct. Sir Ralpb, execnted. 7.
Grimtb« funlly, mcnniDfente
of. 15a
Grlmston Garth. 118.
Grimstone» North, 154.
Hall, 118.
PlEurk,484.
Grinder's atdunai fttalitj of.
506.
Grlntoa, earthworks at, 33 j.
GrlsthoTpe Bay, 177.
GtoaDont»i96; Priory, 196.
Gutsborough, Priory and
divrdi, 216; the modem
chorch, memorials of the
Bruces. 317; the Hall,
217.
OnlflSley, I79>
Gully, Mr, his resldeDce, }6o.
Gannergate, ija.
H
HacKFALX* 294.
Hackness, monastery, hwtory
of, 179; chu«l^ 180; Til*
Pfcrk. 180.
Halbum Wyke, 177.
4I7»
Haigfa. 471.
Halfpenny House, |xa
Hali&x: situation,
418; rise and pro.
trade, explanations of the
name, 418 ; parish chnrd,
419 ; Cloth-hall, Town-hall,
440; All Souls church.
44<\ 441 ; worsted and
carpet maonfltctories, 441 ;
museum, 441 ; the ** Hali-
fax glhbet," 44J, 44*;
Oourt - house. People's
Park, old houses, 442;
oefebritSes, 44I.
Haltam. manor of, 498.
Hallamshlre. 498.
Halnaby Hall, 229.
Halsharo, xn.
Uambleton, X04.
HUls, 22T.
Hamerton. 259-
Harald mrdrads, Scarbo-
Tou^ burnt by, 171.
Harden Grange, 427.
Hard Flask, 401.
HMdrBwPoro«,W ^,
Harewood, manor and castle,
J7<; church, tombs, and
HELMBLET.
Harewood Houses pictures,
collection of antique china,
fine Tlew, vineries, J77, j 78.
Harlow Csr, 267.
Tower, 267.
Harpham ehurcn, fine monu-
ments and brssses, 149.
Harrison, John, buOds St
John's churdL Leeds, his
monument, joi ; his hos-
pital, J64.
Harrogate : hotels,lodgin0B,
railways, 265; situation
and climate^ 265 : way of
life described by SmoUett^
265; the first spa dis-
covered, growth of the
place, 266 ; character and
uses of the waters, 266;
walki^ 167; exoursions,
267.
to Pateley Bridge, 268.
~— to Northallerton, 274.
HarsweU Gate, xj2.
Hartbum. ifi.
Hartleap Well, iio.
Hatfield, 85, X2|.
» Thomas of, 85-
Cha8^85.
Hanxwell churd^ |o6w
Park, J06.
Bawes, 319, no.
to Klrkby Stephen, 122.
to Muker, 322.
Haworth (borne of the Bron-
tSs), 428; church. 429;
character and manners of
the people, 429.
Hawsker, 201.
Haxby, 156.
Ha^ton, 129.
Haaelwood Hall, 485.
Haslehead Bridge, 492.
Headingley, 170, 372,
Healaugh, 486.
Heath. 461.
OldHall,46t.
Hebble^ river, 438; valley of
tbe,44l-
HebdenBrldgeb444.
Heck, 9.
Heckmondwlke, 436.
Hedon,lts decay, 109: church,
ancient cross, xia
Hein, St, her moogsteiy, 487.
Helen's (St) Ford and Well,
Helena, Empre8^ 69.
HeD-becks, 31J.
Gill, 313.
Kettles^ 22a
Hellifield,407.
Helmsley, history, 24? : ruins
of the castle, 243 ; drarch,
brassi Ouios Garth, 244.
Houasa.
Helperthorpe, 155,
Helslngore. 48Q.
Hemingborough,dinrdi, Z04.
Hemsworth, 352.
Hengisi; so-called tomb of,
477:
Henrietta Maria, Queen, at
Bridlington, 187.
Henry I^ tradition of his
birth, TO.
IV. struck with leprosy,
259.
y^ his asserted refo-
staiement of Judge Gas-
colgne not true, 177.
— VL at Bolton Hall,
and Waddington Hall, 421.
VnJL, his visit to York-
shire, 3.
Hensall, Z02.
Heptonstall, 445.
Hereford, Bobnn, Earl of,
killed at Boruu^bridgs,
258.
Heslerton, 168.
HeeUngton Hall, 72.
Hessay, 256^
Hessle, 92.
Hickes, Geo^ antlquaiy, 229.
, John, sheltered by
Alioe Lisle^ executed, 225.
Hickleton,478.
High Cup Nick, 351.
Force, 349-
— Hoylond, 472.
Whitby, 202.
Hilda, abbess, her monasteiy
at Whitl7, 198, 200.
Hildyard family. 112.
Hllston, 118.
Hilton, monuments of the
flonily, Z22.
Hinderwell, 207.
HlpBweU, 3|o.
Hlstonr of Yorkshire, xllL
Uob Hole, 207.
Thrush, a
snirit, legend of, 250.
Header, river, 424.
Hodgebeck, river, 248; 249.
Hofland, Mrs., $02.
Holbeck Junction, 372, 457.
Holdemess, district oC de-
scription and history, lao,
121.
Holgate, Robert, his school
and hospital, 351.
HolUn Hall, 384.
Holme, river, 450; valley of
thei49i.
on SpaMlDg Iffoor, Ij2 ;
beacon at, 132.
on-the-WoU^ 145.
Holmes 508.
526
INDEX.
H0LME8.
Hblmea, antiquaiy, bis btrtb-
plaoe. i95.
Holmfleld, 437.
Holmfirth, Inundation at»
49X*
Holwlck Scan, J49.
Honley, 490.
Hood Orange, 22|.
Hill, *ii.
Hook, Dr^ Vicar of Leeds,
Horbory, 466, 471.
Horcam, Hole of, 194.
Horn of Ulphoa, 46.
Hornby Castle, jo2 ; pictures,
J03, 104; chordi, J04.
Hornsea, 12|.
Mere, contest as to right
of fishing in, geological
changes now in progress.
124; character of coast
near, 12^
Horses of J ervanbc; J05.
Horsforth, J75.
Aorton, 410.
— Moor, 411.
Hall, llbraij and col-
lections, 4x4.
Hotham, 91.
, Sir John, governor of
Hull. 100; he and his son
beheaded, 100.
, Lord, 14A.
Honghton Hall oz.
Ho veden, Roger de, Y^ birth-
place cmd snnals, 107.
Hovingbam, spa. churob, 241.
— Park, 241.
Howden, stau, church, 10$ ;
manor • bouse, celebrities,
great horse fiilr, 107, 106.
Howgill Fells, 321,
How Hill, 293.
Howley Hall, 447.
Howsham, 158.
HaU, 158.
How Stean Beck, 27;.
Hubberholme, 402.
Hnddersfleld, trade, condition
of the people. 450; name,
churches, museum, 451.
OBna],455.
to Manchester, 455.
to Sheffield, 490.
Huggate, 146.
HnUf 92 : hotels, steamers,
situation, various names,
91; whale-fishery, 92 ; the
original Kingstown, 91 ;
founded by Edward I.. 93;
docks, 9a; trade. 9$ ; quay,
Trinity-house, 96; Charter-
iKmse^ Wilberforoe monu-
ment, 97; Holy Trinity
chiir«di,97, 98 \ St. Maiy^s
ISON.
church, 98; Town -hall.
Museum of Literazy and
Philosophical Society, 99,
100; citadel, loo; history,
ICO ; the "bore," loi;
commerce^ loi ; excur-
sions, 102.
Hull to BridUngton, 147.
to Hornsea, 120.
to Withemsea, io8.
Humber, river, 92; duck, 94;
estuary, 10 f.
, King, loi.
Humbleton, 118.
Hunmauby, l8^
Hun»lngore, 260.
-r- Hall, 184.
HantcUffNab. 208.
Hunter, Rev. Joseph, his-
torian, 502; his grave, 515.
Huiisle't, j62.
Huntsman, Mr., the art of
melting and casting steel
invented by, 504.
Husthwaite, 2^.
Hutchinson, John, bis spedal
doctrines, birthplace, 30b.
Hutcliife, 13$.
Hutton. 166.
, fiuDiiiy ol^ its eminent
members, ijj.
, Archbishop, his tomb,
— BonviUe HaU, 229.
Buscel, 181.
Cranswick, 148.
Ilxlst: hotels, hydropathic
establishments, situation,
Roman remains, water<ure
lyslem, j82; church. j8j;
curious effigy, ancient
crosses, 184 ; walks in the
neighbourhood, J84.
Hlingworth, 441.
(ngetlingum, ))$.
Ingilby, Sir Wm, 269.
Ingleberd, Philip de, iix.
Ingleborough, 415.
Cave, 414-
Hall, 4x4.
Ingleby, 2x2.
Ingleton, 416.
lUKinanthorpe Hall, 489.
Ingram, Mrs. Me^'nell, 371*
Ingthurpe Grange, 397.
Inundation at Sheffield, 508.
Irchester stat., 76.
Iretun, sword of, j8i.
Iron, oonvenlon of, into steel,
JOi.
KILNWIGK.
Iron manufaoture described.
2JI, 434-
and ironstones, xzzl.
Ise river, 76.
Isurium. site oC 254.
Ivelet bed^ ; J4.
James I. of Scotland, capture
of, 186.
Jenkins, Henry (*'01d Jen-
kins"), notice ot }26.
Jervaulz Abbey, ruins of,
J04 ; founded originally at
For^ J04 ; church, tdispter-
faouse, 30J; tombs ot the
abbots, J05 ; its cheese and
breed of horses, 105; its
last abbot hanged, celebri-
ties of, J05.
Jet found and worked near
Whitby. 2oa
Jews, massscre ol^ at York
in 1190.6^
John of Bridlington, reputed
saint. x88.
of Gaunt Inn, 162.
Jones, Paul, xxo; sea-fight
with, oir FLamborough
Head. 186.
July Park, 19;.
KVASDOK, 334'
Force, 334.
Kegworth, 77.
Keighley, 428.
Keia, 134.
Keldgate. 147.
Kellington, 102.
Kent, WuL, landscape gsr-
dener, his fairthplaoe. 189.
KettlenesB, 207.
Ketilewell, 401 ; hills round,
401.
>— , John, noi^ror, X25.
Keyinriiam, ixx.
KlddafUall.481.
Kilbnm, 219.
Kikiale, 2x2.
Kildwick, 429.
Grsnge,4io.
Hall,4io.
KiUlngbeck, stream, 48X.
Killingnoble Scar, X94.
KiiangPlta, X95.
Kilnhurst, 514.
Kiln8es,ix5.
KilnsPT Crag, 199.
Kitaiwtek, Perqr, 127.
fiQ the WoUtt X47.
INDET.
527
xn/n»r oastlb.
IQIton GtoUe, ruiiM ^ 208.
KilvingtoD, 220.
Klngadale.418.
KingBtun Hall, 71.
KingBtoQ-apoD-HuU, 91 ; sec
UniL
Kingstown, its TesembUoce
to Edward L's *<Bastide8,"
91-
KtpViDgcotea, 132.
Eaoeoourae* 145.
Kipitax Piark. 48^.
Borby Orindalythe, 155.
Molzean^ 294.
Underdale, 128.
—^ Wbarfe. 82.
Kirk Bramwith, 85.
Kirkburn, Koimau diarch,
KirkbnTton,45$.
Kirkby, 214.
Malbain, 404.
— Moondde» 249.
— — Ravensworth, ;36.
Stephen Junct. stat.,
J21*4II>
—— Wiske, charcb» stained
glMt, 224.
Kirkdale cbarch, ancient
snn-dial 248 ;faiiioas bone-
cavern 24S.
Kirkham, 158; Priory (re-
mains) stoiy of its founda-
tion, 150; Gatehouse,
Mrd*Cair, diurch. 159.
Kirk Deighton, 488.
Hamerton, 259.
KlTkbeaton, 454.
Kirkleathain, hospital, line
stained glass in the chapel,
museum, library, 2jj ;
cbnrch, bns^ 2^4.
Hall, 234.
Klrkleeit, tradUional scene of
Bobin flood's death, 468 ;
the park, 469.
KirklhigloD. chnrch, brass,
stained glass, 299.
Kixk Smeaton. 8a
KirkstaU village. 372 ; abbey,
biitory and diescription,
iT*~il4i anttquiiiesiound
In the rains^ ixon-works,
dinrch, 175.
Forge. 175.
KnaptoD, 168.
Xnareflboroii^ 36o( sltn.
adon and trade, church,
360; castle, 261; besieged
by JUibnme, 262; Drop-
ping-Well, 261 : limestone
qaany, 262; ot Robert's
Chapel, the Priory, notice
9t 8L Bobert, 26j; cave
ct BL aUes (scene of the
nnrdar of Daniel GiailM),
story of Eugene Aram,
John Hetcalf (Blind Jack),
264,
Knoitin^i^. 81.
totioole, 102.
and Goole Canal, 9.
Knowles, Herbert, his Unes
on Richmond chnrchyavd,
Jjo.
LAcr, family of, i 54.
— — k ilbert de, founds Ponte-
fract castle, J54.
Laister Dyke, 43a
Lambert, Oen., at Ponteflkact,
357-
Trfimplugh, Abp^ his tomb^
Lamwlth, river, 121.
Lancaster, Thoa. £srl of,
notice of his rebellion
against Edward 11^ defeat
and execution, 25J, 354t
J 55 ; miracles wrought at
his tomb^ question of his
canonization, discovery of
his supposed remains, J55 ;
site of his tamh, 355.
Landon inn, at the Junction
of three counties, 350.
Langbargh Ridge, 21 j.
Lan^itrothdale, 401, 402.
Langton Hall, 128, 154.
Lartington, 143.
IU11,14J.
LagtiTlghftllli ancient mon-
astery at, 250 ; church and
crypt, 251; Oedd's Well,
2JI.
liaUmer, last Lord^ his monn- '
ment and e£Bgy at Well,
298.
Langhton* en - la - Morthen,
Lavatrae^ site of, 145; sltoa-
tlon and plan, Roman re-
mains. 145.
Lsiver, stfeam, 14$.
Lawson, Sir John, J28.
Leake church, 22a
Lealholme Bridge^ 209.
Leaaerigg, 196.
Leathley, 381.
Leavening Brow, xj;.
Jicoonfleld Osstle, 144.
Ledsham,483.
Ledstone Hall, 483.
Leeds: staOona, hotels, rail-
ways, comparative Im-
portanoBb Jtes bisloij.
LITTLB BinDSTONB.
368; doth trade. 362; St
Peter's chnrch, stained
rand monumentB^ 363 ;
Saviour's. 363 ; Su
John's^ founder's tomb,
363 ; hospital, 364; town-
haU, PhUosophical Hall,
364; museum, library,
365; Cloth-halls, bridge,
grammar-flchool, 766 ; hos-
pital, Medical School. 366 ;
manu&ctoriea, 366, 367.
Leeds to Bradford, 410, 437.
to Harrogate, 372.
to Manchester, 446.
to Seiby, 481.
to Skipion, 378, 424.
toW«5cefield,457.
and Liverpool Osnal,
Leemlng Lsae^ |oi.
Lees HaU. 466.
Legeolium, site o^ 360.
Le Groe, Wm.. Earl of Albo-
marle, castle of Scarbo-
rough built by, i7z.
Leiceeter, 76.
Leonards (St), Lord, his
birthplace^ ?95.
L'Espec, Walter, founder of
Kirkham Priory and other
religious houses, 159.
Levels, the, 85.
Leven. chnrch, fragment of
andent cross, 150.
Leventhorpe Hall, 437.
Levisham, 193.
Leybnnii 306.
to Sedbergh, 312.
Libraries at
Escrick Plurk, 17.
Kirkleatham, 233.
Leeds, 365.
Sheflleki. 501.
Whitby, 199.
York Minster, 50.
lighthouse on Spurn Head,
iij.
LUbume, siege of Knares-
borough Oastie hr, 262.
Lllla Cross, 197.
Limestone quarries near Wo-
mereley, 81 ; cavema near
Horton. 412.
Undholme, 87.
, WiUlam cf, 87.
Linen manufacture at Leeds,
367.
Linton, 398.
Liquorice^ its cultivation and
manufacture at Pontefract,
, 359-
Liftsett 151.
Little Driffield, 148.
— Bodslooi^ 19a.
626
INDEX.
LITTLB OTAISVOBTU.
little Stalnforth, 41a
littondale, 190.
Ltvenedgie.4|6.
LocUDgton, 147.
Loekwood,49a
LofthouM, 108, 271, 457.
Loidla,;68.
londesboroughi Bt*t. 129;
tbe former nukosioo, de<
went of Uie estate, 129;
probeble Roman villa at,
110; tomvU near, iji
London to Harrogate, 484.
to HoU, 85.
to Yorit 1, 76.
Long Hull, 217.
Marston, 256.
Preeton, 407.
Kiaton, iij.
Longwood.45i,4$4.
Loughborough, 77.
Lovely Seat, 122.
Low Moor Ironwortci^ 4)4,
Lowthorpe^ 149.
Luddenden Foot, 444.
Lund, 145.
Luue, river, J4^
Lunedale, 149.
Laton, 76.
Lythe, 207.
X
MAOis,8Keo(;i|6.
Magnu, ThOB^ Ugend oon-
oemiuft 219.
If albam, 404.
Sv^40f.
Water, 4061
Malbran's Spoat, 196.
Maiaqr. 516.
Kalton Onnet etat), tti an-
dent imjportanoe and post-
tioo. IM; history, 166;
chnrchee, site of Roman
csstrum, Roman remains,
167 ; British csmp, 167.
to Drtffleld, 152.
Manchester Hole. 271.
Mannlngfaam Mills, 411.
Manston, 481.
Manufactores of Yorkdilre,
szzl.
Marishos Road stat, T9a
Maricenflfld Hall, 291.
Market Harlwrough, 76.
~- Welghton, HI.
Markfaam, Ahp, his tomb,
4«.
ton Castle, ii4; tradt
oonoemii^ I15; her <
tivlty at Sheffield, 499.
MaimloD family, flielr lord-
ship, 296; their tombs at
Tanfield. 297; their ex-
tinction, 297.
Marrick Priory, ruliiB of, iij.
Marsden, 459.
Marshall, Wm., agi1caltar>
tst,hl8graTe»i9i.
KartkOf 214, ;ji.
, seat of the Hottons,
pictures, iih
Marrtoiif 256.
MoOTf battle of, 256—
Martin'i^ SL, Priory, rains of;
JI2.
Marton (near Flamborooi^),
184.
(UrthplMse of Osp-
taln Oook, near Middles-
brough), 2J2.
,l^andWeet»J9AL
HaU. 2J2.
Marvell, Andrew, at Nun Ap-
pleton, 84; portrait of,
96; his bIrthpUce, iti.
Mary Qoeen of Scots at Bol-
^ •• tradition
tivlty at Sheffield, 499.
Masborough, 509.
Masbam,296,297.
Mason, Wm., nls rerfdenoe
at Aston, memorial tablet,
Matthew, Abp., hts tomb^ 42.
Maude, Thos., tbe poet of
Wensleydale, 313.
Mauleverers, tradltloa as to
tbelr IntcnneDt, 287.
Mauley Ikmily, 206.
Maae beck, ^51.
Maser-bowl in York Minster,
Meanx Abbey, remains of,
X2I.
Meldram, Sir John, takes
Scarborough, klUed In the
siege of the castle, 172.
Melroerby Jonctloo, 296.
Meltham, 491.
Melton, 92.
, Afafk., his borial-plaoe,
31.
Mercer, Andrew, and his
sons, Scottlsb pirates, 172.
Metcalf. John (BUnd Jack),
notice of, 264.
Metcalfe; clan of, J17.
Metham family. 91.
Methley, 160; stained glass
and monuments In the
church, |6r«
— Park. |6o.
~— junction, 481.
MULTANOnnLAB TOWE& '
MexboroQi^ Junotion, earth*
works, 475.
£arlof.j6o.
Meynfll, tombs of tbe ftmUy
at Whorlton, 214.
MlcUefell. 151.
Micklefleld. 48J.
Mlckleton, 149.,
Mlckley, 294.
Middlebam, J07 ; easUe. joc:
church, stained g^MB^ jci;
_ moor, 109.
rapldc
no; •
2?o.
Middlesmoor, 171.
Mlddleton, 14V, 192, 184.
ln-Topf>nsle,lead-mtag%
Mlddton. famlly.oi; effigy cf
Sir Adam de^ 184.
Lord, 154.
Mllfordionction. 81.
to Hull, 104.
Military memorials In York
Mh)ster,42.
Millglll Force, JI8.
Mlrfield. 45a
——Junction, 468*
Monckton, Sir Fhaip, tabkt
to, 91.
Monk Bretton, nwnatns of
priory, 471.
MontcRMnery, the poet, hb
Urthplaoe and grave, 502.
Moorthotpe stat., 77.
More, Sir Tbos. and flunlly.
Holbein's picture of, de-
scription and hbUuy, 4fi4-
MorleyTiifi.
Morris CoL, legalns Itete-
flract cssUe by sttvtagem,
3j6 ; excepted from mercy.
tsken, and executed, J57.
Rev. F. O., 129.
Mortham Tower, J4cx
Morthh«, le, dlsMct of. s^-
Morton, Roman ooins found
at, 427.
Moss, 9.
Monlton, |2|.
Mount Grace Priory, hbtorv
and doKriptlon of, 22".
228,
St John, remains of
Preceptory, 23r.
Mowbn^, vale of; 294.
b Roger de; fbanfei Bv-
land Abbey. 2)7 s tradltlu
ooncemlDg, 218.
Muker, 134.
Mulgrave CaeQe, 2e|.
Multangular Tower, Yoct.
55-
INDEX*
529
HimCIAflTEB.
MonoMler, Lord, no,
Mardao^ Henir, Aoboi of
Foontaliifl» 188; laiaed to
tlieMeorTork,a88.
Hmraj, Lindky, Uis nti-
dence, 71.
Aldborongb, 294.
CbbOb Howard, 165.
GlgglMvtok, 408.
HftUbx.441.
HadderaOdd. 451.
KlrJflwitlmin, 213.
Leeds, 364, 165.
litenry and FUlotophl-
cal Society. Hull, 99.
ScarboroiiRb. 176.
Sheffield, 501.
Wbitby, 199.
Torkahlro Fhilowphica]
Socktj.u.
MnsgraTe^ Aop., bto tomlK 42.
Afjtbolmroyd, 444.
liyton, " Chapter of MTton,"
Btatned glaa in the dmrcb,
256.
Nabitbx, 18.
Kafferton, 148.
Kappa Hall, 717.
Nelly Ayre Fom^ 196.
Nesivkk Hall, 145.
Nethenldc, 399.
NeviUe,iiunUyof, 1J6.
NeriBon, a tuaova frM-
booter. Ma auppowd xeti-
denoe, aia, 447.
Newl4KgIii.]49.
New BaikUng, 12a.
Newhursh nxk, Gromwel-
llan reUea at, 237.
Newby Hall, coiUeetkii of
acalptOTB^ 294.
Wislce,299u
Neweastie, Maniiila ot, liege
ofHtdlby, loa
New Hall, JSh
New Hertfoni rirer, 182.
Newlay, 429.
Newton,!^.
Dale Wen, 195.
HaU.4»7.
— Hoaee^ 107.
Kyme, 487.
npoo-Oiiae, 74.
le-WlUow% J02.
Nkld. river, 74, 260^ 262,
NineStaiidardsim.
Normanby, Marq., 205.
OTLKT,
Normaoa In Torkshin^ xvL
NonnantOD,48i.
North AUerton, Sydney
Smith's •« Black Swan " Inn,
2x4 ; ItB ale, Uatory, 224 ;
church, 225 ; grammar-
■cbool, eelebrittes, noes,
scene of the balUe of the
Standard. 225.
to Leybom, im.
North Barton, 190.
Gave, ox.
Dean janctlon, 471.
— Orimstone, 154.
NewbaU, 91.
Northnmberlabd, Dnke of,
JJ6.
Norton, 80^ 168.
, fiunlly oC their actiWty
in rebellions^ 295 : hnMset
of, at Wath, 296; their
attainder, J97.
Gonyers, ancient home
of the Nortons, afterwards
of the Grahams, 295.
NosteL Priory, history of
the Ai«astinlan eetabUshp
ment, 463; the modem
hooash ItB ouUection of plo
tores, 464; library, 465.
Notton. 48a
Nan Appleton HaU, seat of
the Fairfkxes. 84.
NonbamholiM^ 1219^
Nunkeeling, 151.
Nan Monkum churcta, 74.
Nonnlagton, 240.
Nunthorpe Janet, stat., 2ii.
NatwUh Osmp^ 294.
OAKomu'w, 481.
OakB OoiUery, accident at,
OsicwellHaII.448.
Obtrnsh Boqae, 29a
Old Malton. Prtoiy, 167 ; m-
mainsofcborch, 167.
Olicana, site oi; |8|.
OUver's Moant, 178.
Ormeeley, 218.
0imBby,2|2.
Onnotberley, 226^
Oswaldkirk, 242.
Oftwl, King of Northmnbria,
200; at the synod at Whit-
by, 200; his graven 201.
ObwIi^ King of Delia, moxder
otW.
Otley, 268$ chnitih, nono*
ment% 179; maDor-hoaae^
|8a
nOKBRINO.
Otley Chevin, magnificent
▼lew from, 380.
Otteriiwton, 224.
Ottringharo, iix.
Ongfaty Bridge, 494.
Oalton, 361.
Oose river, lo^ 74, 90^ loi.
Overton church, 74.
OwBton, 78 ; Hall, 78.
Owthome, disappearance of
church and diardiyard,
murder in the vicarage,
Jij.
PAOinu,«r Paol, iia
Palet Hill. 32f.
Faley, Arcfadeaoon, his birth-
place^ 408; his school,
408.
, Rev. Wm., bra« plate
to his memory, 408.
Palliaer. Wm^ Abp. of
Gashel. 225.
Ptonal, 378.
Park Foes, 273.
Pftike, Baron (Lord Wens-
leydale), his birthplace,
Parlington. 482.
Pftteley Bridge, 271.
P&trick Bronipion, 302.
Phtrington, 112 ; church, one
of the glories of Yorkshire,
its anttquitj, 112; Ladv
chapel and Easter sepul-
chre, 1x4.
PaoltnuB, hia conferences
with, and conversion ot
Edwin of Northnmbria,
130; tradlUon of. at Braf-
ferton, 252; tradition of,
at Dewsbvy, 449,
Penhill, 313.
Benistone, Janet stat iidinrch,
estrenchments near, 491.
Penyghent,4ia
Fepptr Hall, 219.
Percy fRmily, 83; tof%
their state aJt Wreascl, 109 ;
shrine in Beverly Min-
ster, 137; chantry, 138;
tombs, 137, 138.
Fhilllps on 4he gedogy of
Yorkshire, ix-xl,
FhUpot, Alderman, fleet
equipped by, 172; Im-
peached and acquitted, 172.
Pickering Janet, -stat, an-
tiqaltw, derivation of ntmob
chnreb, 191 : csatteb 191.
— — ^ Lythe of, 191.
2 H
530
IKDEX.
flekerliig. Vale of; 191.
PlckUll,299.
Pldon Janet, stot, 115.
Pleroebridge, 116.
** Pilgrimage of Grao^" bls-
torr of the rUng so oallpd,
end Its eoppreMkio, zviii-
XX, 7. 391-
Pilmoor, 116.
Plnchliigthorpe tUt, ti6i.
Finder's Green, 465.
Plmnpton Park, 164, 267.
PockllngUm stat, good monn-
mente in charcb, 127.
PMnpocall, rite of. 488.
I'tateftaot, ettnation, JSJi
castle, Ustory and deeerip-
tiOQ ot }S3'i99\ remains
of chorbh of All Saints, 359 ;
cultivatloa of liquorice,
159-
Pone, Alex., Iliiea on the |
Daloeof Bockingham. 149 ;
on Sir J. Cntter, J78.
PoppleUm, 256L
PopuUtioD of TorkaUre, tIL
Port Clarence, aia.
Potter, John, Abp. of Oan-
terlmiy, 461.
PbtteryOarr.^.
Preiton, iio.
Prieadi^, Dr^ Ms birthplace,
448.
Proctor, Sfr Stephen, 291.
Padsey,4ia
QUKUCSBURI, 417.
(juinUn, St. fkinilj ot 14^
RACBOOVBa, near RkrlrmoBd,
fine view Ironi, j{2.
RsdeUlTat John, founder of
the RadoUffe Library,
125. 461.
Radlett,76.
Railway!:
Gnat Norllien^ 1, 152,
4IQ. 4J8, 4J7.
HaU and WlthemMa,
io8«
UnoMblre and Yorkshire,
^466.47i.49&
ItanoliwterTSbeffleld, nd
Unoolnshireh 496
Mldlan^4i9,424,5o8.
North -EaslMm 104, 120^
147. 15* Ij6k 218, 2|o»
aj6, 1J2, 2j6. 968. 274,
V>t, J2J, i|6k J72, 48X.
BIPLST GAflTLB.
Railways:
North Midland, 47^
Norih' Western, 446.
North YoriEBhiie andOeve-
]aiid,208.
Scarborongli to Vlley«
Flamboroogfa Head and
Bridlington, 181.
Sooth Yorkshire, $14.
Rainsborongh, Gen., slain, 7.
KaisegiU Hag, 401.
Ralph Gross, 21a
Rameglll, 272.
Raakelf. 21a.
Ravenser (Sbakspcare's Ra-
ventpiiTg> 116.
RawcUli; loj.
Rawden, 425.
Rawmarab. 914.
Raydale,;i8.
Redcar, 2|l.
Red HIU TnnneU 77
RedHoiM,75.
Redmire, j 10, 114.
R«eth, jji.
Reighton, 184.
Rellgioos houses Ib YoiIc-
shirs^xflL
Rcre CrasB^ osmp of. 14$.
Reresby fiunlly, traditions
oonoenring,5i4.
SibbH rtver, 407, 412, 419^
RlbbleheaO, 41?.
Rlbblesdale, 410.
Lord, 420.
Ribston HaU, original " pip-
pin " tree, mins of precep-
tory of Knights Templars,
160.
Rtocall, 15.
Richard IL, aotlee of his
death, K5.
Richard JUL. &Toar{«e resid-
ence of, his great popn-
Isrily in ToTkshirek 308.
Richankon, Dr,, natuialM.
hi8graTek4l6.
Richmond: history, jio)
oasUe, J17 ; parish dinrcb,
} grsinmar - school,
Ity chnrcli, tower of
the Grey Fitara, Jja
RlddingsgiU, 272.
Riddleeden Hall, 428.
Bievftvlx Abbey, first sight
ot, foondattoD and histury
of, 145 ; description of the
rains, 246.
Rllllngton, 168; jBBCt ttst,
Ripley, town -hall, chorch.
168.
^Gsstl^ seat tf tfat In-
gelby8.269.
tSdIU
BOLLB.
Bipon* rj4i 1
blsiory, 275; trad% rjs;
cathedral, 176-484; faeo-
piials, 284; remafkaUe
tamnln% 284; ep*sco|ial
palace, escnrsfcinB, 284.
Ckthedrsl : histoiy. 276 ;
cnmnd-plaq, 276; west
nont, 277; nave 27!^ moon-
ments, 278; stained glaa»
in S. aisie^ 279; oentral
tower, 279; trsneepCa. 279 ;
dioir- screen, 280; choir,
stained ^lasi, 260; Aolr-
ehrine of 8L Wil-
frid, 28x; chapter. 1
▼estiy, Ln^y Loift,a7p;.
282.
Rise Bnsb, X2|.
Hall. I2|.
"Rising in the North." his-
tory of the, jud ; crndHas
practised on Its s
sion, xxii { a8
«75.
Rivelln, rirer, «o8L
Rivera, Earl, bis imprlaon-
ment and execnttaiv 156.
Rivet HaU, 197.
Robert, St, Bottoe of his life.
26J.
Robertson, Dr, Deta ofDnr-
bam.461.
Robin of Redesdale, tn.
Rol)|n Hood,
haunt ot reseaitiwa oon*
ceming. perhaps a mythi-
cal peraonage^ 79 ; an nctoal
penonage In Baraadala,
bellads on. his Well. 80;
tradition coocerafeofL 201 ;
his enoonntar wMu the
"cnrtaR Mar of Poon-
tains," 286; tndftkmal
scene and stny of hia
death, his grav^ 46&
Robin Hood^i Bay, 20 j.
Butts, 20|.
Robhi Lyth*! Hole. 185.
•• Robinson Onmo^" 72.
Roche Abb^, rstais oi; $16,
Rocking-stMWB on Brtohsos
Crags, 269 ; oei
myre,4io.
PockIlfre»2i5*
Rogsn's Seat, ;|f .
Roger, Abp^ hia
tombk JO.
Rokeby, 119: Ronwa eaam.
park. Sir W. Sooto's vldit
ahd descrtptfon, 119 - Moi^
tham Tower, the bMiae,
140 ; chords )4t.
RoU& RKrtittd. the «HenDit
of Hampole^'' 9.
IHDEX,
631
BOLLBSTOir HALL.
KoUestaii Hall, 1 19.
BomaldldriE, effigy and bran
in tbe chuicta, 148.
Boot, 118.
— Carr^ 118.
Bob or Boos, fiusHy of, 241.
Booebery Topping, 11 j.
Hoaedftlft, 205 ; vUkge, 205;
iroD-worica. 205.
RoMington, j.
Bother, iW&t, 480^ 510^
5".
BotherhAiDf 510; chardi,
5JO.
to Bawtxy, gi^
» Abp^ bis tomb^ 41.
Bongemont, 172.
Boatb, chnrch, braaseflk i5Qu
Bojal Marriage Ao(; occaaioa
ciitBuuuiDg, 16.
* Boyd.'^meaoiug of; 444.
Eoy«too,48o.
Bod^y, 2i<.
BndlaDd Moor, 150.
Budatone-on-the-WoUa, 189;
the "Btone* wbJch gives
aama to tbe pariah, loa.
Walk. X90.
— ^, Little, 19a
Bmnbald'B Moor, aarth-
worka^ 184.
Bnnawldc Bay, 207.
Bupert, Prtnoe, InaUooe af
bS$ IbTbeaiBao^ J82.
Boakiii, Mr., on Tmaex'a
works, j8o.
Bnawaip^ 197.
Bye^ river, 248.
Byeloaf, 40^
Butland, fiirl of, bis death
at Wakefield. 460.
lybtooe^ tbe Nortons, 197;
tower and mooDdaon Byl'
atone Fell, J98.
Bymer. Thoe^ editor of the
*F<Bder%' 225.
Saddleworib. 4^
SaUaire, great woollen iisic-
tny, 425 ; chorch and
schools, 427.
Saltergate brow, 194.
Sdltbom-by-th^Sea, 214.
SaltmaiShe Hall, 90.
Sancton, 92.
Sanetoaiy* at Beverley, X|8.
Sandal, mlos of castle. Abo.
and Walton Stot., 461.
Saadbeck. 516.
SanderKm, fiiabop of JUnooln,
his grave, 50^
fiSDOBWIOK.
Sand Hutton, 158.
Sandley Mere, X17.
Sandaend, alum-works^ 202.
Saya^Bk ArchUahop, his tomb,
4a
Savlle family, nKmrnnenta to,
ttt Methley. 36c; memo-
rials and tomba oi; at Thom-
bUl.466,467.
. Sir Ueniy. editor of
Gbnrsoauxn, 441.
Sawlqr Aroey, Ibnndatlon,
hlfltoiy , and description of,
4>x-42j.
Saws, manaCtotare ct, 507.
Saxton. 485.
Scalby, x8o.
Soaleber Foroe^ 409.
SoampBtda Pfeurk, 168.
Soarboroiigli: stat, 169;
hotels, radlwayi^ steam-
ers, sitoatioB, 169; history,
170; eastle, history, and
description oC X71-174;
ohvrch of 8t Maiy, 174;
spa, X7$i museum. 176;
£^ Martin's churctau 177;
environs, 177 ; drivea and
egccursions, 178.
to BridUi«;tDa, 181.
^ Earl oi; 5x4.
Scarth STiok, magnifloent
▼iewf ttaok U5» 107, jia
Scawton, 219.
SoorborougtC 14?.
Sooresby, Dr. WoL, his birtb-
place, 198.
Soorton, jii,
Scott, Sir Walter; his visit to
Bokeby, 129.
Sort ven HaU. 264.
Scrope^ Archbishop, his tomb,
41 ; bis " Indulgeoce Cnp^'*
47 ; place of his execution,
*2I{ his verston of Richard
tl's death, his ezecnUao,
Scrope and Qrosvenor con-
troversy, 112.
Seropes of Bolton, family of.
J14; portraito, jxj ; their
bnrlal-place, jji.
Sereton, jok.
Scugdale, 21$.
Seamer. 169, i8t.
Mere, X78.
Seamerdale, ix8.
Seamer- water, jiS ; tradition
concerning, Ji8.
Sedbergb. J2i.
Sedlnirghi Adam, last abbot
of Jervaolz, executed. 105.
Sedgewick, Adam, geologist,
his Urtbplac^ nu 4X3*
8BEBIFF VILLAOB.
Selby» 9 » Wdge over the
Oose. 10 ; tradition of the
birth of Henry I.. 10 ; his-
toiy of the Benedictine
monastery, ix ; abbey-
chnrch, X1-X4.
Selaide, 4x2.
SesMy, brass in church, 2x9.
Settle, old houses, 407.
to Chatbum, 4x9.
Scttrington Beacon, 154.
Seven-dales, 320.
Severus* Hills, 68.
Sewerby, 189.
Sexbow, 215.
Shandy HaU (Sterne's resi-
dence), 2^7; meaning of
"Shandy." 2J7.
Sbarlston Hall, ancient por-
traits. 465.
Sharp, Thoa. and Abraham.
4J4.
Sharpen Archbishop^ his
tomb^4i.
Sbaw. John, puritan vicar,
bis monument, 51a
Shawl, the, vi«w from. 106.
Sbeaf, river, 497.
Sheffield: hotelm496; posi-
tion, five rivers^ cutlery
trade, 497; the Cutlers'
Company, 498 ; history,
ju8-5co; St. Peter's cfa..
Shrewsbury Chapel and
monuments, 499; Boman
Cath. church. Cutlers' Hall.
§0; market, Shrewsbury
oq>ital, library, museum.
50X ; Botanical Garden,
Wealeyan School, ceme-
tery, 501; barracks, oele-
britles, 503 ; steel manu-
facture^ 5o;~5o7; mode
of converting iron into
steel, 501; sbear and cast
steel, 504; the Bessemer
process, 504. 505; art!-
des made of shear steel.
505; grinding. 506, 507;
grinders asthma, 506 ;
saws, C07; file-making,
507; other manufactures,
507; great inundation of
1864, 508 ; canal. $08.
to Bamsley. f X4.
to Doncaster, 508.
Shepherd, Joaeph, memorial
church to^ 252.
Shepleystat..49X.
Sherbum. church, skirmish
at, 82; Stat., x68.
SherlflT Hutton Park, X96.
Castle, 156; compared
with Bolton. 157.
village and church. 157.
532
INDEX.
SBIPLET.
Shiplejjnnct. Btai.,4if.
ShipUH^ n9, 2t8.
^1 Mother, her reputed
birthplaee, 262.
Shoddy trade and manufoo-
tare,448.
Sbrewsbttiy, sixth Earl of,
hto letter to Queen Eliia-
beth,4<)9.
— moovmeiits at Sheffield,
499. 500.
Shuunor Kell, 322, |J5»
Howe^ 204.
Sigglesthome, 12^
Silkstone^ ooIUerieir diurdi^
Bilton, Interesting church,
221.^
Sfmon Howe^ t95>
Simon Seat, J89.
Simon's HsU, J2a
Sinclair, Ber. Enodt, mar-
dei^ 117.
Sinderby, 299.
Sinnlngton, loi, 252*
Sittenbam, nome of the
Gowers, 158.
Skdfling. 115.
Skelbrook. 8a
Skeleton tour^ xMx.
Skell. river. 288.
tStelton churoh, 7;, 294, 295.
Castle, curious tenure,
history, 235.
Skeme ohiuch, 1481 river,
229.
Skiuningrove, 208.
Sicipsea Castle, remains of,i25.
Brough, 125.
Skipton, ^2; castte. the Clif-
fords, 194; church, gram-
mar-achool, celebrities^ j^s.
toClapham, 51 j.
— ^ to Ine^eton, 402,
to KettleweH, 197.
Skipwith, churdi and com-
mon, ri; tumuli, 17.
Skircoat Moor Orphanage,
44}-
SkirJGue, river, 399:
SkirUui^ stot, 122.
Beck. r22.
— . Walter, Bishop of Dur-
ham, IZ2.
Skiriington HUl, 125.
Skye, isle of; 455.
Skyrack oak at Headhigley,
Slack, Roman ranains, an-
cient camp, 45J.
Slaithwalte, 4V5.
Sleddale, 212.
Siedmere, i$4.
Sletghtholmeaale, 24a
'M«'»gWsChapeii96r
STAINED GLASS.
Sleights stat„ 197.
Sltngsby, 241 ; oastle^ church,
241.
— monuments at Knares-
borough, 260.
— , Sir Henry, 75.
i Sir Wm., disooven » spa
at Harrogate, 266.
Smeaton, Great, 229.
— — •, John^ Ills birthplace
and restdenoe^ mural tablet,
Smith. Sydney, his living and
residence, ^58.
Smollett, his notice of the
w»y of life at Harrogate,
265.
Snaitb, church, 102.
Snape Castle, 299.
Soar, vaUey of, 77. '
South Cave, residence of the
Washingtons, 91.
^— EmsaH^ ^52.
Frothingham Hall, T17.
Sklrhuigh, m.
Southbank stat.. 2ji
Soathey's Doctos; scene ot,
204.
Sowerby Bridge, 441, 471,
Spas, Boglish, attention flnt
atteacted to, 17a.
Speeton. x8;.
Spennithome, 106.
^fforth, remains of castle,
church, 49a
Sprotborough, 477; church
with stained glass, 477.
Hall, pictures, 478.
Spurn Heaa, 114, 115.
Spurs, Ripoo famous for, 276^
Staddlethoipe^9o, 108.
Stafford, Tbos., Ukes Scar-
boroi^gh, beheaded, 171.
Stainborough, 47;.
Stalnburn, |8i.
Stained glass: at Doncaster,
4; at Bolton J^rcy, 83; in
York Minster, 2$. 27> J>*
J4, 4 J, 44? in 8t Denis,
York, 51 ; in SI Martin's,.
York, 57; in All Saints^,
York, 54 ; to the aulldhall,
York, 66; at Nun Monkton,
74; toSelbyabbey-churCh,
12; to Holy Trinity ch^
Hull, 98 ; at Hayton, 129 ;
in Beverley Minster. 14&;
at Thlrak, 220; at FeUsklrk,
22X : at Klrkby Wlske^ 224 ;
at Kirkleatham, 233;taOa-
Ung Outle;,24o; at Myton,
25&; in Ripon Cathedral,
279. 280; at Well, 298; at
Tanfield, 297; ftt Watlv
296; at Kirklingtaa. 299;
SWABTHOOB.
at Bedale, joi ; at Middle
bam, J08; at Broagh Hail.
324; at Richmond, ijo; at
Methley, j6i ; a* Leed«^
363 ; at HaUfiftx, ^)% 440;
at Wragby, 465 ; at Tbon*-
hUl,466.
Statoforth, 85, 4ra
Statoland, aaoient cnss^
Slaintondale cUH; 177:
Stairfoot, 474.
8toltbBB,207.
Staleybridge, 457.
BtamfoniBridge^ battle ol,
125.
8tanedgei^J5.
Stanley, 40$.
Stanningi^ sto^^ 4ia
Stansfield Hall. 446.
Stanwick eartbworks. 136.
Pkuk, earthworks, j^
Stapleton Park, 81.
Starbeck, baths, a6f .
StarbotUNB, 4or.
Stean beck; 2^r.
Steel maonfactarM of Shef-
field, 502-907.
i method of <
9»h
BaSti,
Stepney, 121.
Sterne^ AzchUahop. Us ftomb^
^— k Lawmen at BkeKon,
215; hlsvlcarBge,ai6L
Stevenson, Jotan l£il^ 8tarae*s
" Eugeniui^" 2$$,
Stockmoor, 491.
Stockton to Siiltbam, ijo.
Stokedey, 212.
Stoneraiseb 318.
Stonegrave ^urch, 140.
Stordi Hall, 454-
Stoope Brow, 201.
Stonrton OMtle, 259.
Strafford, the Great l^oid, at
Yorlc 58 ; hia gr«.Te, fz J-
Strensall, 156b
Strld. the. 389.
Studl^ Royal, a8n pteaanre-
grouDds, fine view, 185.
Stnmp Cross» atalacttta ca-
verns at, t74.
Stotton,484.
Sun-di^ anoient, 14S.
Sunk Islaw!^ 114.
Sutton, 121.
^tton-aa4he-Fo(rMt, 236.
Swale, liver, la, %%x, »5«^ a^
30<^ III, nok !»«.
Swaledale, 333'
SwarcUife H^ 369.
Swarthooe CtaM, 104.
INDEX.
533
swiLUKeroH.
SwUUngtoD, |6t, 483.
Swim, divcdig monaBMBti^
iia.
8wlMfleet,Qcv
finrloemfinde, iia.
Swiaithwalte HaU. 114.
Swlntoa Junction, 514.
PiarlCp plctom» 298.
^jdney Smith, i)8.
Sykes, Sir Tattoiir aotkt ot,
«54. 155.
TASCAgm, andnt bridge,
derinuloo of namfl^ church,
486 ; muoatteiy of St.
Hcla.481.
TallgwUi HIU, 194.
Taimd, Ghrlsto|Mier. corlou
mode of Interment of, 259.
Tuifield, ao6; Mannlon
tombs tma other monu-
ments in the chnrch,
•teined glMi, 197.
Tenkmley Pwrk, 515.
Tandielf stttt,. j6o.
Tate, Jamest maater of RIcb-
mond Grammar - school,
memorial of his laboura,
Taylor, the water-poet, in
the * Dn0on'a Den," 495.
Teea» river. a)9» a^o, 3j6, J41,
349-
Templeborooghb permanent
RtMnan camp^ 509.
Templehiinit,9.
Temple Neiraam, hlstoiy, ool-
lectioo of picmreik i7i;
perk,|7f.
Thieves' litany, 94. 442*
Thieveedale, 486.
Thirkleby, aia
ThirlwalU Bp., 118.
Think; taitereaUng churchy
stahied glaai, 219.
— - to Malton, 2j6.
William, Abbot of
Foantaioa* resigns his
olDoe, enecnted at Tybom,
29».
Thixendale, 128, 154.
Thomas of Brotherton, 81.
Thomasoo Fosok 195.
'l*hongBbridge, 491.
Thorcshy, ArchUsbop^ Us
great services, JO.
^ Balph, his blrthplaoe,
;68.
Tbomboroii^ earthworlcs
Thome, 89.
Thorttgnmbald, iki.
TUBNEIU
ThonihilUhiiich,]
memorials snd toiail
the Savttes, remains of
their Hall, 466, 467.
hincUon^ 449^
Thornton (Charlotte BnmtS's
birtfaplsee> 417.
-— * churdi, 190W
•le-Dale, 192.
Foroe^ 418.
in Lonsdale^ 419.
Bust, ^7.
4e^treet, 22j.
Hall, 221.
ThomthoTpe^ Britiflh oamp
at, 168.
Thorpe Arab, 487.
Hall, 91, 190, 171.
— I^rrow, 299.
— Saiv1n,5i7.
-in-thchStieetk 129.
ThorsgOl, J47.
••Three Marya^" the, by An-
nibale Garracd, 162.
Tbreahfleld, 198.
llirybeighi remarkable eroa,
Tbnrgoland, 494.
Thwalte, J14.
Tibthorpe, 146.
Tickhili; j; ndM of castle,
churdi with important
monnmentiL {17.
TUlotson, Ai^Ushopb Urth-
plsav44i.
Tmslqr, 509.
Todmorden,
44S.
k vale 0(449.
Toller ton, 218.
Topcliffe^ bras in the chmrh,
a loiddiip of the Percys,
joa
Toesfde, 42Z.
Towton,484; the battle^ 484;
the battle-field, 485.
Traffbrd. Wdl, Abbot of Saw-
ley, hanged, 422.
Travetter's view, xxzvUi-
xlviiL
Treeton church, 479.
Trenholme, 2if.
Trent Jnnct. staL, 77.
Trontedale, 18a
Trawler's Oill, 191.
Tunstall, 118.
k Bishop of Dnrham, Us
birthplace, 104.
Tnmer family, 2|j.
» J. M. W., Us works
at Famley Hall, j8a
WALFOLS.
JJlw, Danish Jarl of Deira,
X19.
mieikdf, 81.
Ulrome, 125.
TTnderdiire, 417.
Upleatham Hall andchnrch.
2j6.
Upsall Castle, 221.
Ure. river, 19^ 25I, 294. »95.
J07, JI2.
YAvASomt fiunily, ancient,
seat and. monuments of,
485.
Termoydoi, Comelins, drain-
age of HatfleU Chase by.
86; "Datch Biver" cot
by, loj.
Yemon-Harooort Abpt* Us
tomb, 28.
'^Hctoria Cavcni, aUmal re*
mains and Bomaa relics
found in, 408, 409.
Yilllen, OeoTge^ Diyden's
Duke of Bncktn^ism, 84.
Vyner, Lady Maiy, 294.
WAsmsoKK HaH, Hevy
YI.at,42a
Wade's Gtmseway, 106.
Waddey Bridge, 496.
Wadworth, remarkable efflgy
in the church, j.
Waghen, I2X.
Wakefield : trade, 457 ; the
«'ptaider,"4f8; parish di..
Com * Eschsnge^ 4^8 ;
Ghantinet, 450; the battle,
4J9, ^; Soke mills, 460 ;
lunado asylnm, grammar-
school, 46X ; celebrities,
461; m1son,46i.
to Doncaster, 471.
to Halifkac, 466.
Walbom Hall, jix.
Waldendalo, ji}.
Walker, Samuel, Us oele.
brated Iron-woria at Has-
bonragh. 509, 51a
— ^ William, supposed exe-
cutioner of Ghsrles L,
Walpoto* Horace, his descrip-
tion of Sheffield, 497: bf
Boche Abbey. 516.
534
INDEX.
WALTOir BALL.
Waltoa MM, 461-463.
WandeBford, Sir Chx1«u>pher,
299.
Hall.a99-
Waiuford, 14a.
Waotley, the bnfOD ot, 499,
496.
Ward, Baron, miniirter of the
Dake of namu, hla birth-
place and remarlcabie
career, loS.
Waimaworth, 4<]8.
Warter Priory, 129.
Waahington lamily, 9^ 91.
Waaaand Hall, 114.
Waterfaig-plaoea, xL
Waterton, Chaa., natnraUst,
Ua praaerTee and oolleo>
tiooa at WalUm, 461*46; ;
taia maaaolenm, 461.
— -^ Sir Robert and wife.
tomb aad efflglea at Meih-
ley, i6i.
Watb, 296 ; monumenta,
in the charcfa, 196.
— - npon-Deame^ 474.
WaUlng Street, 79^ ijs, jfj.
Wattoo Prloiy, 147.
Weapooneai^ 178.
Weatberoote Gave^ 417.
Weaverthorpe, 155.
Webeter, John, anther of
' IMacoveiy of aappoeed
Witchcraa' 3 J7.
Weeton, 178.
Welbuiy, 129.
Well, ebnrch.
298.
Arelles, Lionel I
^fe. tomb and
Wefles, Lionel Lonl,
^fe. tomb a
Metblej, |6i.
— ^ Sir ttobert, ezecoted, 7,
Wellingborough, 76.
Welwlok, ehuroh, .„
able monument, 114.
Wenaler, J12 ; intemtfng
oburob, line bram, early
Saxon Aragmentik jij.
WeiMl^jdale, 112.
Went» valley of the, 80.
bridge^Sa
Wentworth CMtle^ ooneeUon
of pjoturpi, 471,474.
— woodhovM. •«•» of
the Karl FltxwIlBam, 511 ;
ooOeetlon of picturea, 512,
fij ; eellari,ji|; church
tomba with efflglee, 511.
k funHy of, jii.
, monuments, 41.
Weat Bretton, 471.
Barton, 114.
Lutton, i€5.
Newton C(ntDgM4i.
Wait Wltton, |i).
Whale-Oflbery, 9$.
Weateidale Moor and tII-
h«e^2ii.
Weaton Hall, J82.
Westwood, 5 If.
Wetherby, 4M.
Wetwang, 146, i5j.
Wharfe, river, 172, 17J. i1%
191,398,488; valBoi;j82;
aonroe oC 402, 412.
Whamdiffe, 494.
Whamon-le-Street, i<4-
Wheeldale atream^ 196/
glen, 195.
Whemaid^4i8.
WhitbF hoteLsoonwyances,
altaattoa, tra4^ 197 ; «»•
viewi^ promenadM, 108; the
Abbey, 198, 199; hUiory,
200^ 201; oburchea, mn*
aenm, 199 ; Jet fMind near,
aoo; walk* and aBcnr-
aiona from, 202.
toOulabonraghandMld-
dleabcough, 2i6w
to '" "
208.
WhItcUffe WoH JII.
Wbltecrofl^ 904.
Whliedale^ 123.
White Foroe, 351.
Hall, lit.
-— > Horae^ flgiiTV «C on the
Hambleton HUla, 219.
— - Mear, 223.
Whiteetone CUlf, 221, 222.
WhitewaU tnOnlng wfeabliah-
ment, 168.
WhitfeU Fona, 318.
Whitgifk, 90.
WhiUdrk, 372, 481.
MThitley Bridge^ 102.
Hall,i99. •
Park, 45ic
Whitwell, 158.
Whtoley HaU
the XVmcreda, 259.
Whordale^ J82.
Whorlton, cfaurck. Ifeynill
moMuneDts, 214; ramains
of the castle^ 214.
Bridge, HI.
WickfTsley, 911.
Wicklifl^ John, hit anppoeed
birtfaphu)!!^ 330k 34>; por-
trait oC Ml-
Widda]e^l2a
Wlghill,487.
Wllberforoe^ notSee oC by
BoBwea, 66; hla Urth-
pUoe and monument, 97,
, derivation of the nai
127.
WUberftiH, 127.
. reeidenee of
Wilfrid,
Sdwin'a
la
~^.atBipan,275;)
in Rlpoo cathedral, aBi.
WUlance'B Utt^ 311.
WllUy-hone, legend of, mix
William da Halllcid, Ub
tonhk40.
, SL, Abpi of York, his
borlal-pUceb 31 i t ' ' '
and hifltoiy, i%
Wilmington, 121.
Wilton OuUe. 234.
WhMh Bridge, 349-
■ carthi
will.
Wlaoobank,
iuestead, 112.
Winston, 336.
Wtfike, ri w, 229.
WiaMnden, 4f f .
WithernacMk, 116.
Wltton. Eafl^ iia.
Weat, 313.
Wod% Wm^ prior, cxeonAcd.
188.
Woden Cral^ 348.
Woftd Nevton, 190.
Wolda»tbe^i52.
WoU; the laat alalB in York-
ahira^362.
Wolaey.Oud, ai Oawood, 15;
Wombwell. 4^
Sir Q. C 237.
Womerdey, 81.
Woodhou8eMiU,479.
Moor, 366.
Woodleaford, 361.
WoodaonMHaU,4{3.
Woollen trade and mann&e-
tor^ xxxUii'Xzxviii.
WooUey Hall, 471 ; church.
--- Edge^ 471.
Wordsworth fiunUy, 49L
Wormald OrBen, 274.
Woraborottgb, 474.
Worsted maniift>rwre.xxxfii-
xxxTili., 438.
Worth, river, 428.
Woriley,494.
HaU. 494.
k Sir TboaL, fak bOQuds,
legend umciaulug hha,
495*
, Montagu. Lndy Mary.
her resideDoa at
cliire,495.
Wragby, chuicb,
Wreke, river, 'n,
Wreesel. atat and
105.
INDEX.
535
WBIOHT.
Wrightp Mr, bis raggestion
ooooernlng Bobin Hood,
19-
— ^ Jolm Mid Christopher
(of tbe OuDtwwder Plot),
their naidence* 114.
V^ycUffiB^ Tillage 14a; church,
Han, 141.
Wyke^ ScaumiaTlaii name of
Hull, 91.
Wykeham, 181.
Wyzniog brook, 508.
Yaim, axf.
Yew-treeSb asdmt d Fonn-
tains,38&
fordas Gave, 419. •
York: statloii, holda^ rall-
wajB, 18; sltDation and
derivation of tbe name. x8.
Sir
1 St. Micfaael-le-Belfty.
ly Trinity (Qoodram-
gatei site of St. Helen's on
tbeWaUa^ Christ chnrcb, 51;
8L Savioor'i^ 81 Cathberf s,
St DbdH^ n ; St. Maxia-
retfs, St Lawrenoe, AU
Saints' (FsTement). St
Sampeon. St Helen's, 52 ;
St Hartln'i^ St MIcfaaers,
St Mary's, St John's, All
Saints' OTorth-street> 51;
St Mary (the Elder and the
Yonnger), sa, 55 ; St Mar-
tin's com Qrvgory, Holy
Trinity (MidtWateX 551
St Maiy'ta Abbey. S5i
YORK.
grounds of the Yoricshfre
PhlloBophicBl Sodety. 55-
61 ; City wattt, 61 ; gates
and bars, 61, fo ; tbe castle,
6j-66 ; Mansion • house,
Guildhall, 66; St An-
thony's Hospital (Blue-
coat School), St William's
Oollem, old houses, 67;
the Retreat (aaylum for
the inssne), 67 ; Severus'
Hills, races, 68; cele-
brities, 71 ; excursions^
York Mtnster: Biaterlals Ibr
its hisuny, 19; ground-
plan, 21; cfaurchee pre-
eedittg it 20; dates and
architectural character of
its different portions^ 22 ;
Its great reputation and
genend character, 22; S.
transept exterior, 21 ;
view on enterlnft 24; S.
transept interior, stained
gLus, uMHiuxnentSk 25,26;
narrow arches in transepts,
26; N. transept stained
glaiw, ononuments, 27, 28 ;
nave, 28-11 ; great W.
window, ^; monuments
and stataied glass in the
nave, )i ; diapter-house^
stained fdass, 12-14; choir
and presbytery, 35 i shrine
of St WiUfam, ?7; choir
aisles, 18 ; £. window, ^9;
monuments in N. choir
aisle, 40; in presbytery, 40 ;
in & choir aisle, 42; stained
glass in choir aisles and E.
window, 4?, 44 ; crypt 44 »
central tower, 45 ; choir-
screen, 46; organ, 46; re-
cord-room, Testry, and
ZETLAND.
treasury, 46; exteflor,47-
49; W. fh)nt.47;N.sMe
of nave, N. transept; 48:
chapter-house, 49 ; £. end
of choir, 49; cloister,
library, 50.
York to Borougbbridge and
Aidborough, 252.
to Beverley and HuH,
"?.
to Darlington, 218.
to Knaresborough snd
Harrogate, 256.
to Market Weighton,
125.
— « to RichmoDd, m.
- to Scarboroc^h, 156.
to Whitby, 190.
, Archbishops of, their
struggle for supremacy,
22.
- Rldiard Dnke o( hi»
death at WakeOdd, 459^
460.
Yorkshire: extent and gene-
ral character, vii; geology,
Ix; history, xlli; antiqui-
ties, xxlv; resources and
manuftcturei^ xxxi; tra-
Tdler's view and scenery,
xxxvlli; Bkeletoo tourt
xlix.
Philosophical Sodety.
grounds of the, 55 ; Mult-
angular Tower, 55; St
' Leonard's Hospital. 56;
ruins of St Mary's Abtiey,
56 ; remains of the abber
church, 57 ; St Olave^s
diurch, 57 ; museum^ 59.
Z
Zetland, Eari of, 2 j6^ ijj.
THE END.
L0!TI>0!T:
Fm^TTED DT WILLIAM CLOWBB AHD 90NS, LIUITBD,
VTASirORD 9THBET A31D CHARnfO CMOSS.
HANDBOOK ADVEETISER, 1882-83.
CONTENTS.
FOREIGN AGENTS :— J. * b. McOBAOKm ....
RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES :
BASBOW BOUTB TO TBJC IBLE 07 MAN
OALXDOlflAN BAILWaT
DCBUN Am) OLABOOW BTBAM PAOKJEI COMPANY
OXHKBAL BTKAM NAVIOATION COMPANY
OLASOOW AKD THB HIOBLAMBB->BOYAL BOOTS
OLASOOW i»D BOHTB-WKTKBN BAILWAY . •
OLAfiGOW, BXLTABT, BBIBTOL, CABDIPF, AND SWANfeBA
GBBAX BABTBBM BAXLWAY
LONIWW AMD MfUni-'^nWEBBir BAILWAY
MIDLAND BAILWAY
HOTELS AMD MIBOELLA^bTJB ADVEKTISEMENTS.
10
11
ABBBYRWITH
AIX-L»-BAmS .
AIX LA CHAPKLLE
ALKXANDBIA (BANK OF) 40
AMIBNB .... 11
ABTWXBP . Ihl9
AYiaKON . . . . la
ATBANOEBB ... II
BADBUBADKN . 1Z> 19
BAOMIBBS DB BIOOBBB • M
BAQBiBBS DB LDOHON . IS
BitB »
. 14
. 14
. 14
. U
14,10
. 16
13. 1<
. 16
. 16
. 16
. U
. 17
. 17
17-19
. 19
. 19
. io
so, 91
. SI
. 21
BAMBBBO .
BABOELONA
BBLFABT .
BBLLAOIO •
BBBUN
BIABBITZ .
BOLOGNA . •
BOMM . .
BOBDXADX
BOULOONB-SUB^MBR
BOTZBN
BBSMBN . •
BBUOBB . ■
BUXTON
CABM .
GAIBO .
CARBLLAMAiUE
CHAMONIX .
CHAUMONT
OOBLXNTZ .
OOLOONX .
OONVTANTZNOPLB
OOPSKBAOIN .
OOBFU
oKBuniAon
DIEPPS
OUOM .
DDIABD
DOVKE
DBBBDBN
. 21
. tt
21. S2
. M
28.24
. 14
. 94
. 96
. 26
. 20
. 26
20.26
. 96
. 26
. 27
EO0I80HUOBN
EMS '
ENQELBIBO
FBANXrOBT
OmBVA
OENOA
OMDNDEM .
OOTHA
OBIMOBLIC
BAMBUBO .
BANOVEB .
HABBOOATK
EAYBB
BXIDBLBBBQ
HOMBUBO .
htIebbs
ilfbaoombb
ihbbbbuck
INTBBLAKXN
KABL8B0BE
VILLABNEY
KISSINGEX .
LAUBANNB .
LBAMINOTON
LISBON
LOOABNO
LOCH LOMOND
LONDON
LOGBRNB .
LYNTON
LYONS
MADKID
MABIBNBAD
MAYBMCB .
MENTONB .
MBTZ .
MILAN.
M07PAT
MULHOOBB
MUNICH
NAPLES
NBBTI
mUOHAlSL
NIO» .
NDI^ASBBO
y
rAOM
PAaa
. 28
ODEBBA . .
. 01
. 28
OeiMtfD
. 01
. 98
OXTOBD
61, 02
. 28
PABIB . .
6M4
. 28
PAU .
. 00
. 99
PENIAHCB.
. 00,06
. 99
PBGLI .
. . 66
. 99
PISA .
. . 07
. 99
PLYMOUTH
87.08
. 80
PBAOUX
. 08
. 80
BAOATZ
. . w
. 80
BIQI . . .
. 09
. 81
BOME .
60.61
. 81
BOTTXBDAM
. 61
81.82
BOUEN
61. 62
88.88
B0YAT-LBB-BA1N8
. 69
. 89
BAUBBUBY .
. . 69
89,88
BAM BEMO .
. 68
. 84
. 69
. 84
BALZBUBG . .
. 69
86.86
0CHAVFBAUBEN
. 09
. 86
68. 6i
. IT
8ETILLB .
. 64
. 86
BHANXLIN . .
. 18
87.88
BBBrilBLD
. 66
. 88
80CTBPOBT
. . 66
. 88
. . 66
. 89
BPA . . .
. 64
. 89
8T0CXHOLM
. 66
S9-44.76
8TBA8BUBO
. 66
44-40
. 66
. 46
T0INB8
. 67
. 40
TOULOUSE .
. 67
. 46
TOUB8.
. 66
. 46
TUBIN .
87,66
. 46
VABB8B
. 68
46.47
VESICE
. 68
. 47
YEBONA
. . 68
47,48
YBVEY . .
. 70
. 48
70, 71
. 48
VIENNA
69.70
48.49
WBBBADEN
70, 71. 72
. 49
WILDBAD .
. 78
. 99
WUHZBUBO
. . 79
. 49
. 79
49,60.01
ZUBIGH . .
. 78,74
. 01
B
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
MESSRS. J. & R. M^CRAOKEK.
88, QUEEN STfiEET, OJLNlSrON S!J3ffiET, £^.,
Aavsm, VT ▲FFonmoBNT, to tbs botal AOAOBirri vatiohal oallbbt,
JJfD eOTEUnOBNT DBPiJI'nCBllT OF SCtBSCE iJO) A£T,
esvx&AL jjrD fosauBfB aossib,
WINE MERCHANTS,
4sents for Boavier's Neachtitel ChainiMsne,
AMD
FOB TEX BIOXFTIOM AlTD BHIFianrr OF WOBK8 07 ABT, 1U60AeS» te.,
r&OM AHD TO AXI. PARTS OF ^BX WORUI,
Avail tbemtelvw of tUa oppoitonlty lo return their slactta OuuikB to the NobUflj and
Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to he honoured with a oon-
tlnnanoe of their fk^oors. Their charge* are frNned with a dne regard to eoooomy, and the
uoie care and aUentioa will be botfowed as heretofore apun all padUgee pualng thn»a^
their hand*.
DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES.
Where Works of Art and all deecriptloDS of Property -«an he kept during the Owner's
absence, at most moderate races of rent.
Parties fisvonring J. and R. M«G. with their Conslgntaienta are reqoested to be parlfealar
in having the Bills of Ladtng sent to them dibsot 1^ Pbst, and also to forward ttMir K&y
with the Packages, as. altlioogh the contenu may be tnb of Daty, all Psokagsa an attU
BZAimrsD by the Costoms Immediately on arrival. Hftcksges aent by Steamers or oChanrtse
to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to; but all Lettars of Advice and Bills of Lading
to be addreaied to 86» Qdibh Sikbbt. as above.
AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. h M. FARINA,
GBOSVOBBR DBJf J0UOU*S Platb, Oolognb,
CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGITE,
MEaSRS. J. AND B. MOOBAOKSN'S
PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS.
ALGIERS Mr. P. PaaSKiasB.
ALlfiXANDHiA Mr. A. MoirrxaXATo.
AUGANTE Mr. P. B. DAHLAinMca.
ANOONA Messrs. MooBR. MoacUA, 4 Go
ANTWERP Messrs. F.MoKBxm ft Oa
BAD EMS Mr. H. W. TiUKL.
BASLE Mr. Ous. Ds J. PaBurwaax. Mr. J. J. Fbbi.
BERUN Mr. Ligh M Oohm, Oomm'*. kxptoitew.
BEBNK Messrs. A. Baokb A Oo.
BBYROUT Messrs. HstfBT Hbau> * Co.
BOLOGNA Mesan. Rkrou. BuGoia ft Ca
BOMBAY Mtawrs. KiKG. KiKG, ft Ga
BORPEAUZ Moosra. albkkout ft Taa,
BOmXXJNE a. M.. . . Messn*. Moby ft Go.
BRUSSELS Messrs. VaBbTUABTSB Dx Mbubs ft Vua.
CALAIS Messrs. L. J. Vooca ft Go.
CALCUTTA Massrs. Kxvo, H amiltuv ft Oo.
CAIRO Mr. A. MoHFBBBATa
CANNES Messrs. J. Tatlob ft ttiDDBn.
CARLSBAJ > Mr. Tbomas Wolt, GUss Manaftmnrar.
OARBUIiRA Slg.RBnorAiiii.8calptor.
OHKISTlANiA .... Mr. H. Hbitiiavh.
2Rl;SS?5^;Ai-^ • Mr. J. M. Fabima. gegenttbstf ^ism JtUIcha Plati.
OONSTANTINOPLK Mr. AL»BBn G. LaSqbtoii
DRSaDBK
FLOBSMUE
1882. UURBArS HANDBOOK ADVBKTISKK 3
xooRAcnrs lTO' oy MBUSMmnarn-HwitiiNMU
COPENHAGEN MeMH. H. J. Boa ft SoH.
JOBFU Xr. J. W. Tatlok.
;Measn.8aBL0B«iumfcS0HSFFus. MeHn.H.W.BAd8iiioKftCo.
Ttaft IHrtctor of tbA Boyal PoioeUla MjanfKtory IMpOV.
M«tB«. FBmroH ft Co. Big. Luioi Bamaool M eotn. isjucu. Fuizi
ft Oo. Sis. Tito Qaquamm, Detlor in AntkniltiM. Meom.
llAQUATrBoosu,ftOo. Mr. E. GooDBUi, Piintselkr. Mr. T.
BxAMCHZHi, Moaalo Worknr. MeMrt. P. Baizamxi H Pic
ScnIptocBy Lqsco I'Amo*
PBANKFOBT O. M. Meisra. Bnio. Jan., ft Go. Mr. G. KuM.
GKNBVA MM.LKva»mftPfuaiaa.
amnA C Meian. G. ft £. Aajrohi BnonnuMb
^'^""^ tMr.C.A.WiLaoH. Mr. H. A. Mcmba. Gnmda Albugo (Pltalla.
GIBBALTAB • Mmbb. Jomr Pa400CX ft Go.
HAMBUBG Mt«n.J.P.JMaaftOD. Mtasn.SQBUBMBB ft Tnoeiuni.
SGIDELBEBG Mr. Pn. ZnocuMAini.
HEI^imiFOBS.... MeHrs.LiRnnftBu9cm.
INTEM»AflKKN.>.. Mr.J«GBomujni.
JEBUSALKM Measra. £. P. Spittlbb ft Co. Mr. M Besohkik. Jim.
KlBSlNGfiN Mr. David SvosuiAMf. Mr. H. P. KvosLMAnr.
LAUSANHX Mr. DoBon Bnoc ft Pila^
LBGHORM Meun.ALBZ.MAinnAVftOo. M«ws. Ma^iiat, HoouSr & Co.
LQCEBNE :.. Me«n. P. KhOu ft PUiw
MADBA8 ,.. MtMTi. Bunnr ft Go.
MALAGA Mr. GnoBOK HoDoaos.
{Messrs. Joaiu Dammakjs ft Sovs, 45, Strsd* Levaute, Mosaic
Workers. Mr.PoBTtmATOTnRA,M.Strsd*6uLiiola. Measre.
TirnifBuiJ. Jon. ft SomBvnxn.
MABIBHBAD Mr. J. T. Adlbb, GkMB MaaafiMtnaw.
MABHKniliKS MMan.£.0AJUO&an4H.SiU]nnnu.
MBtrrONE Mr. Faimakk Mr. Jsan Ottnoo Ptls.
M£3BINA MoaBrs.GAiLuat, WALKKB,ftOo.
{Mr. G. B. Burm, Plassa d! 8. Sepokro, Mo. 1.
Maosra. PBATUXt Bbaxbilla. Meava. Uxjuoh ft Go.
Meaars. O. Bono ft Go.
MUNICB 'MctarB.^Wi]iMBBftOt>nPrftktadlen. Brinmar Btraaao.
If APUM f Maaan. W. J. Tian» ft €o. Mr. G« So*fc4. Win* MiMhNit.
^^SSof^.... {MaaBra.Boim»Pn4na.WineMenslianto.
NEW TOBK '.'.'.'.' v. Maaara. Baldwot Bbos. ft Co.
NICE Madane y*« AooLPRS Laoboix ft Go.
(nntEMBBBG Mr. A. Pickkbt, Dealcfr In Antlqnltlaa.
OSTEND.... Maasra. B. St. Amovb ft Boh.
PALEBMO Maaars. ITOKAX. WaiTAUB, ft Go.
PARIS Mr. L. Obmnm, Packer, Baa Grolz daa fetlta Ghampa, Mo. 34.
PAU ... Mr. MmoxAYn Clat.
p,H . Ofaam. 3xnm ft Tav ]JiRV«ealptoai in AhOiairwKlMartile.
*^"^ iMr.G. AroBma.Scolptor in Alabaster.
PRAGUE Mr. W. HdfiKAinr,.Glaaa-Manvft«tarar, BlanemStem.
{Meaaca. Pi4>woc» ft Go. Maaan. A. Macbbav ft Go. Masars.
MA«iBAT. BooxBB, ft Oo. MaaaTB. Spada ft Plamivi. Mr.
J. P. Boa. Mr. A. Tomboti.
ROTTEBBAM Meaara. Pnaarov ft Co.
SAK REMO........ Meaars. Fbatklli AmiVABOwn,
ST. PKTERSBOBG . Meaars. THonaov, BoHASt ft Go. Mr. a Knooiuk
S^roCKHOLM Mesara. Ouaov ft Wbiohv.
THOGNE Mr. Jeah Kuiui-aRBon.
TR1B8TE Meaan. Pui. GwiaA.
TURIN Meaars. BocHAS. Ptee ft PUs.
«.»Tn» i Mr. L. BOTABM. Ponte site Ballotte.
YBNICE . . .. • (Ue8ars.&ft ABLUHBBiHALft Go. Mr.GABLoPonL
VEVET Mr. Joita G<iA« Poa.
( Mr. H. Ullbiob, Glaaa Manofsetucr. 16 Kamthner Strasae.
HENNA < Meaarab J« ft L. LManma, Glaaa Manofactarera* 13, Karatlmer
'( Strana. -Mr. Pi —
SSURIOH Mr. Obbu. Hva.
4 MOKRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
TOURS IN SCOTLAND.
Tux CALEXtovikK Railway Compaxt have arranged a tjatem of Todbs— about TO in
number— l^ Rail, Sbeamer, and Coach, comprehending almoet every place of inleieet either
for aoenery or biittorical aModations thronghoat Sootland, including—
ISDINBURGH* GIiASGOW, AB£BD£BN»
DUNDEE, INVEBIOSSS, GBEXSNOCS; FAI8I«B7,
DUMFRIES, FElSBIiES, BTTSCLlNa,
PBBOlfH, CBIBFF, DUNKBIiD, OBAN, UnTEBABY,
Tke TrosaclUy Locli-Kateiiiey Itocb-Iiomoittf » Ii^di-BarBt IiiNsh/nij»
Lock-Awe, Caledonian Canal, Clleneoe, lona, Slafii, Bkyc, Balmoral,
Bracmar, Arran, Bule, The imh of €ljrde» The Falls of Clyde* Ac., Ac.
i^ TOURISTS are recommeDded to procure a copy of the 0«Iedonlaa Railway Com-
paoy'a •^Tonrlst Gaide," which can be bad at any of the Company's StaHona, and also at the
chief Slattona on the London and North- Weatem Railw^, and which containa dcKripttw
noticea of the diatricU embraced in the Tours, Maps, Plans, Bird's-eye Ylew, In.
TieM$ f$r tkeae Ibun wre iuued <U the Oampanj^s Booking O^ca atoJUtko Uirgo ^toMsni.
The Tourist Searan generally extends from Jumx to Skptxhbbr indnalve.
The Caledonian Co. atoo l«ine Tonriat Tlcketa to the UJce IMatriet of
Bnsland, The isle of Man, Connemara, The IaIcco of Klllaniey, Ac
The Caledonian Railway, in cotOunction with ihe Londoo and North- Western Railway,
lorms what is known as the
WEST COAST ROUTE
BETWEEN SGOTLARD k ENfiLARD.
DUUXjr TRAINS RUN FROM AND IX)
Glasgow, Edinburgh, Greenock, Paisley^ Stirling, Oban, Perth,
Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places in Scotland.
TO Av» nox
London (Enston), Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds,
Bradford, and other places in England.
SLSMPINQ A DAT SALOON CARRJUOJSS, THROVOM OUABD8A COJfDUCTOBS.
The Caledonian Company'a Trains, from and to Edinhurgfa, Glasgow, Oarlislcte, ooBoeci
on the Clyde with the *« Columbia," ** lona." ^ Lord of the Iste," *• iTanhoe/' *• dad.* awi
other tteBiiiers to and from Dunoon, Innellan, Rothessy, Laxt>> MiUport, the l^las of
Bute, Airan, Campbeltown, Ardrishalg, Inveraray, Loch-GoU, Lodi-Long, Ice, ke. ■
A ftdl service of Trains is also nm tnm and to Olasgow, to and fkom Edlahmgh, i
StIrUng. Oban. Perth, Duadee, Abeideeo, and the North; and from and to lidUbugh, to
and fh>m these places. I
Pbr partieulari qf Train$t Font, de^ tee the Cdleiomian iteflwiy Oompcmft Tim* fhWrt '
It is czpectsd that the Calertontsn Company^ lax^ge and magnificent ,
NEW CENTRAL STATION HOTEL, GLASGOW, '
will be opened during the Season of Iflii2, under the Oampany*! own Management.
Obibkal Maitaobx's OnnoB, JAMBB THOMPBOH,
Olasoow. 1882. OeimulJ
1882. MCRRArs HANDBOOK ADTKRTISKR. 5
GLASGOW ANO SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.
DIBECT ROUTE BETWEEN
SCOTLAND & ENGLAND.
THBOTJOH TiULINS ARE RCTN BETWEEN
GLASGOW (St. Enoch) and LONDON {St. Pancras),
yi& Uie QLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN and MIDLAKD RAILWAYS,
OlTlDg a Direct and Ezpeditlom Seirioe between •
OIA8G0W, OBZXVOOX, PAISLEY, ATB, ABPKOiWATf, KHMASITOCi;
BUimiBS, te., A!n>
UVSBFOOL, 1EAV0HB8TEB, BBADFOBB, UED6, 8QBGBFFISLD,
BBXinrOL. BATH, BIBXIKGHAII, LOHBOH, te.
PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS
Are run I7 the Morning and Evening Expreea Trains between GLASGOW and LONDOX.
FIRTH OF CLYDE and WEST HIGHLANDS,
via GREENOCK.
EXPRESS and PAST TRAINS are run at convenient honn between
(St Enoeh Statton) O^ynedoch St. and Princes Pier Station^)
IN DIRECT CONNECTION WITH THE
"COLUMBA," "lONA," "LORD OF THE ISLES,"
And otlier Steamers sailing to and tnm
Kiin, Bnnooii, TiiTiallOT, Bothesay, Xjlei of Bate, ArdrUhiig, OImui,
InYarary, Largs, Millport, Xiloreggan, XUaim, LodigoOhead,
Ctardoohhoad, fte.
Tbrongh CarriMea are ran by certain Trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier), and
BDINBuROH (waverlfy), and hj the Morning and Evening ExproM Tntns between
GREENOCK (Princes Pier) end London (St. Pancras).
RETURN TICKETS lasoed to COAST TOWNS are arailable for RETURN AT ANY
TIME.
Passengers are landed at Princes Pier Station, flrom whence there Is a Covered Way to the
Pier where the Steamers call ; and Passengem' Lnggage Is conveyed run or oraiok
between the Stations and the Steamers.
ARRAN AND AYRSHIRE COAST.
An Exnras and Fast Train Service Is givrn between GLASGOW (St Enoch), PAISLEY,
and TROON, PRESTWICK, AYR, ARuROSSAN, FAIRLIK, to.
From ARDROaSAN the ft»lend)d Saloi^n Steamer "BRODICK CASTLE ** saUs daily to
and Aom the ISLAND OF ARRAN, In connection with the ExpresR Train Service.
Fast Trains provided with Throngh Carriages are run between AYR, &c, and GLASGOW,
(St. Enoch), and ED^BURGH(WavCTley ). _
niELANDl
A NIGHTLY SERVIGS is given bv the Royal Mail Steamers vlft GREENOCK, and also
by the ARDROSSAN SHIPPING COMPANY'S Fnll-Powered Steamers viA ARDROSSAN.
For Ptartietdart as to Timim «md SUamon t» (he Oompany^t Time ToMet.
Olasoow, May 1882. W. J. WAINWRIGHT, General Manager.
MURBAT'S HANDBOOK ADTBRHSER. May,
LONOOH^ AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY,
LONDON STATION, -WTATERLOO BRIDGK.
The Cheap and Picturesque Boute to Paris, Havre, Bouen,
Honfieur, TrouviUe^ a>Dd Caen, via Southampton and Havre,
every dfondar, Wednesday, and Fridays Tha last Train .fjMmi Londoa a«
9 p.m. goes into i^outhampton Docks alongside the Steamer. muiBS
throughout (London to Paris;, Single Journey, First Class, d8«.; Second
Class, 24<. Double Journey (available for One Month), First Class, 550. ;
Second Class, 39s.
Jersey, Guernsey, Granville, and St. Malo. Daily Mail Service
to Channel Isles, vid ^'onthampton (the favourite route), evety Week-day.
The last Train from. London ffoes into Southampton Docks, alongside the
Steamer, leaving Waterloa each Week-^ay at 9 p.m. (except on* SiiAurdi^B,
on which day the last Train leaves afc 5.20 p^m.* and the Steamer goee to
Jeney only). Fabu lhjK>ughoat ( London and Jersey or Guenw^), SliiRie
Journey. First Class, 38a; (Second Clnss, 2.H«.; Third Classt 20*. Doable
Journey (available for One MonthX First ClasSr ^8«. ; Second Class, 88s, ;
Third Class, SOs. Direct Service^ Southampton to St. MdlOy every Monday^
Wednesday, and Friday, according to Tide. Th6 best Boute for Dinard,
Dinan, Bennes, Brest, Nantes, Laval, Le Mans, Angers, Avranohes, Ac
Southampton to Cbprbourg every Monday and Thursday. Last Train
from the Waterloo Station, Londooy at 90 a.ii. The best Boute for
Valognes, Carentan, St Lo, Bayeaux, and Cootainces.
Hteamen ma between Jersey and 8t« Halo, and Jeney and ISranvlIle,
twice Weekly each way.
For ftirtlier informatloii apply to Mr. BEi^NBTT. S. Plaoe TeudfioM^ Birls ; Mr. LAK6-
STAFF. 67, Grand QoaU Havre; Ut, EfNAULT, Honfloar: Mr. R. SPURRiER, Jereer:
Mr. SPENCER, Gaeraeey; Mr. E. D. LE COUTEuR, 8t. Mato; Keaan. MAHIEU.
Cherboarg ; or to Mr. E. K. €X)RKE. Steam Paeinc StiperintendeDt, Soathampion.
GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY.
THE TOURIST'S ROUTE TO THE CONTINENT
IS vi& HARWICH.
The Continental Bxprees Train leaves Liverpo<^ Street Station, London,
for Rotterdam every evening (Sundays excqited), and for Antwerp on
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, in direct connection with
the Fast and elegantly fitted up Passenger Steamers of the 0>mpany.
It is expected that a Daily Service to Antwerp will be oomjBuenoed on
.ruly 1st, 1882 (Sundays excepted\
The Steamers are large powernil vessels, ranging from 800 to 1200 tons
burden, with ample sleeping aocommodation ; and consequently Paasengers
suffer leas firom mal de met than by any of the shorter Sea Boutes*
The Provisions on Board arn supplied from the Company's own Hotel
at Harwich, and are unequalled in quality. Luggage can be resiatered
through to all principal Towns on the Continent from Liverpool Sbeet
Station. Through Tickets are issued at — 44, Begent Street ; 48, Lime
Strf>et ; and Blossom's Inn, Lawrence Lane, Cheapside, £.C.
Cook and Sow's Tourist Office, Lndgate Circus, London, £.0.
Gazb and Sok's Tourist Office, 142, Strand, London, E.O.
O. Catoill'b Tourist Office, 371, Strand, London* B.C.
And the Continental Booking Offloe, Liverpool St Station, London, K.C.
For further particulars and Time Books apply to the OoBtinentn]
Traffic Manager, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C.
1882. MUKKAT'« HAt^UDHtlli AUV J!iRHOis.rVi i
MIDLAND RAI LWAY.
DIRECT ROUTE TO
EDINBURGH AW GLASGOW,
Vid SKTTLE and CARLISLE.
EXPRESS TRAINS, WITH PULLMAN PARLOURS CARS
BY DAY, AND SLEEPING GARS BY NIGHT.
The Pictuxesque Route between Iiondon and Manoheater
and Uverpool, through Hatlock and the
Peak of Derbyshire.
Improved Eicpresa Service between London and Nottingham^
Sheffield, Leeds, and Bradford.
Tb« mmiiiid RattwftT Rjttem (one of the laTgent in the United Ktosdom). ez«endtng
from LONDON In the »>UTH to LIVSBPOOL in fbeNOBTH-WEST, And from BOURSE-
MOUTH and BUierTOL in it» WEbT to 0AHL1SL£ tn the NORTH, aflbide direct com-
mnnicatioa with «U the mAnofJMtnrlng and bnsineM oentrea, Including—
I/)N1X)N. PLYMOUTH, 8HFFFIRT,D.
UVERPOOL. BRISTOL. HUDDifiRSPlELD,
MANCHSST9IL BIRMINGHAM, YORK-
THomnoBijL wolvkrhamptqn, Scarborough.
aLAMKm. LEICKSTER, LEKDa
EDINBUROH, NORTHAMPTON, BRADFORD,
SWANSEA. DERBY. «a
The Trains of the Midland Company nm to and from the St. Plncras Station in London.
the Central Station. Kanelagh Street, Liverpool, the Nev Stre^-t 5tAtton io Birmingbam,
the Ontral and London Road Stttiona in Maneheater, and the Wellington Station in LerdB,
The official TImertablet of the Compf ny. and every information respecting thefar Trrn'm;
and arraogements, may he obtained ai any cf the above-mentioned Stations, and the other
Statiooa on the LIm.
TOURIST TICKETS
■re iasned bj the Midland Company daring the Summer Months fVom all principal Statlonn
on their system to principal places of Tourist report and intinrflt in England, Scotland,
Ireland, and Wales; and special arrangements are made for Pleasure Parties.
Third-Class Passengers conveyed by all Trains at
Penny per Mile Fare&
mpany 1 .
IRELAND, and WALES.
JOHN NOBLB, Genml Manftger.
Dbrbt, 1882.
8 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY.
The Company's Flrat CUwt Salooo Piiddle Staainen,
Duke of Argyll, Duke of IielnBter, Iiord Clyde, Ijoid Gongh,
OR OTHER STEAMERS,
Are intended to Sail as pv Monthly SailtDg bills, nnleas preTented by any vaforeseen
ooonrrencs^ fktnn
DXJBLIIV TO »LASGO^%V
Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and emy alternate TUESDAY.
THURSDAY and SATURDAY. From
GH^A-SOOW TO 13UBLI1V
Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and evnj alternate TUESDAY.
THURSDAY and SATURDAY, calling at Greenock both ways, except Satorday Boat
from Dnblln. which proceeds direct to Glasgow.
£ ». d.
Cabin Fare. (Including Steward's
Fees) O 16 0
Retnm Ticketo (6 Months) . .12 6
Steerage 0 6 0
Ketnm Tldnts (6 Months) . . 0 10 0
Single Ticket to Bdiabnrgh .10 0
Betam Ticket to Bdlnburgh £ a. 4.
(2 Months) I 10 0
Single Ticket to Edinbmigh
(3rd Class and Deck) ... 086
Beturn^ Ticket to_ fcdinbmngfa
0 14 0
(2 Months) (Sid CUss and
Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinbargh Direct, without cbanfce of
carriage, by either Caledonian or Korth British Railway, according to the Ticket they hold.
The Caledonian Railway Stations are Caihcart Street. Greenodc; and Prince's Sireec,
Edinburgh. North British Company's— Lyndoch Street. Greenock; and Haymaxket aDd
Waverly Stations. Edinburgh.
9^ Passengers are also Booked Through between Dublin and the principal Railway
Stations in Scotland.
AOKH^TS.— HsvBT Lamoht. 93. Hope Street, Glasgow. Jamss Lrrru ft C6.. Rxcise
Bnildintpi. Greenock.
IkUBIinr OFVICBS.— Booking Office for Paasengen— 1 Eden Qnay ; where Berths
can be secured up to 2 o'clock, p.m.. on day of Balling.
CHIKF OFFICK Airi» !iTORE8.— 71. NORTH WALL.
Fnrtherparticah«.MonthlyBais.&c..onappllcatlonto {b, 'S^^^oin^SuSIZa^.
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
Frcm and to Irongate and St. KcUh^ne't Wharf, near ike Tjwer,
^ LONDON TO PARIS direot firom London, vU Bonlotfne^rABW Bpiwb aivalblla tor
Three IW.Mmmi. la* GHms B^. 11. Ta. S4.: SakMrnTsnd Otam BaS, U. «•.{ Itan CUdn. ted Om SMI.
I9> 9d, : Srd Olam Bail. !«•. M. Btttorn (aTsUable for FMirtaen Dftyi). Si. iSt. M. ; «. t IL lAt. ; U. 6*.
. LONDON AND HAVRE --AK^ or AMUoi»-FromXiOndon---Sv«7Th«mlar. PromBsvre-
Bf»rr aonday. r ABBS-Ohtor OftMn. ISi. t For* aaUn. 9«. : B«tiini Tlotota, Mk 6A and 14«.
LONDON AND 08TEND.~Tha B»ifl ud AaaOiw.— From Ziondon-W«diMiday aad Sondtev.
JP^m Ostend — TiiMdsj and Fzidaj. Y ABBS (Stoimnl'a fw iadodad). Ohtaf GbUn. !&•. ; fVm (Mbtu.
10«. Btftnni, 01. ftnd Ifit. 9d.
^LONDON AND ANTWERP^Th* Bmmk, Ttci, FiOam. or aif>iil«c. Vrom London-B*»T
^SS:!£V''?SS;^Jl^S^^^^ rAB«.0h«0a«..ia.,|^«
LONDON AND HAMBURO.-Th. Lft«, Oiprv, Mm, BMcm, Jbr«»,0r«lM. WUgMom, SmmiOm,,
or Mfard —From London— Bv«7 WodneMlty and aatanUy. From Hammuv— ThraailinM am?
FABR", Ohirf OftUn. 40*. ; For. Oabln. 90i. BStara Tioketo. iu. id. and ZU '"^'^^ "^ ""^ ' '"^•
LONDON AND BORDEAUX.— i^Mtrtf. BUUm, Lapmtma and Oammi. From London— Bwr
OuSfWn^^'vi^^^'uMJ^'^^' '^»"'<»2fOato.tt.5FoieOahta,SL BaiannakS
LONDON J
WadtiMday and t
Qhlaf OaUn. S2fc ; jrore oaUn, lU. Beturn, 8U. and 24a. 6d. 0eok (Soldier* and Sailon only), L
LONDON AND HULL.— The Benm, OrtHA, or Btmibiirg. From London— avwyWodnaB&iT
I AND EDINBURGH {OaAVTOV Pnnt).— Hm r*«oand Aorft. From London— K««*t
1 SatazdaT. From ■dJnbuxvh (Granton Kny-Knn Wedn«Klaj and SaUirdajr. FASJB^
te. ; Fore OaUn. 18*. Beturn, 8U. and 24a. 6d. Deck (Soldien and Sailon only) lOa.
??^^5r*^!il"^ From HuU-Bt«7 WedoMdaj and 8amiday. FABB^ SalooB. S«. f FonOUifa^
Of. Beram TUflnie, I2«. M. and St.
SSSJESTi*^^™?- "WaJooii.t«.;FkaeO»hin,<i«. Bamm11dkete,ll«.andaa. BMwaid'e l^ea
anin«rndedlnatoTeFamaadB«tamTiekelibythaOoinpany'eTwaal8anav^Ulablaftar<nsi^ ^^
J^fvrtherpartieuIarM applp to ffu Stcrttary, 71. loMiterd Strut, London, S.C,
mmRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
BARROW ROUTE TO THE ISLE OF MAN.
Kxpnm ScfTvloe. Shortest Sea Plusage (redaoed to 8 hows) by the Pictnresqiie Route,
•wM Qruige, Fgrneaa Abbey, and Baitow.
The Banow Steiin Navigation Company's Fint-daas New and Swift Paddle Steamn*
'* Jftmsman,'* or other Ffrst Glaas Paddle Steamer, will sail (weather and unforeseen
clrauBfltanoea permitting) between BA.RBOW (Ramaden Dock Stotion) and DOUGLAS
(lale of Man) as follows ;«—
May and to Jfoy asft.
BARROW TO DOUGLAS every Tuesday,
Thnrsday and Satnrday, at 2 ; 60 p.m.
JTav 21t\ to Septeviber SOlA.
BARKOW TO DOUGLAS Daclt (Sondays
ctcepted), at l ; 46 p.m.
Ifay 3rd to Jfay 26IA.
DOUGLAS TO BARROW every Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 : 30 a.m.
May 29tA to atpUmber SMA.
DODGLAS TO BARROW Dailt (Sundays
excepted) at 8 ; 0 a.nL
In emnectUm with Traini to emdfrom oQ parte cf the United Xin^dom,
Pattiealan of additional Sailings during July and Amn will be snnonnoed in Time
Tables and Sailing Bills for those respective months.
JAMBS IjITTIiB A Co., Barti>vf'in'Fumeu.
SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND.
GLAS(K>W & THE HIGHLANDS.
(Royal Bonte vSA Ciinan and Csledoalan Osnals.)
CLAYMORE NEW SCREW STEAM SHIP.
The Royal Mall Steamers— Oolomba, lona, Xountaineer, ClaiuniutiL, Glenooe,
OhtmHttf Pioneer, Clydesdale. Olengftny, Gondolier, Oygnet, 8tafb,
Linnet Ploreri Fingal, Loohiel, Islaj, Qaeen of the Lake, and Inverary
CaeUe. Satl dorlng the Sewon ftr ISLAT, LOCHAWB. OBAN. PORT-WlLLIAM,
ISVEkUffSaS, 8TAPPA. IOKA, GLSNOOfE, TOBERMORY, PORTREB, STROM !£-
KERKT, GAIRLOCH. ITLIJIPOOL, LOCHINYKR, k SIOBNOWAY; affording Tooriftta
an opportonity of visttinie the magnlfloent Soeoery of Lochawe, Glenooe, the Cnchnllin
Hilla Looh Seavaig; Loch Ogniisk, Looh Maroe, and the Ikmcd lalands of Staffa and lona.
Offlefal Goide Book, ad. Illnstrared.ed.; cloth gilt, 1«. Tlme-BilU with Map and Tonrtnt
Fares, ft«e^ of Meaats. Chatto and Wnmns, Poblishers, 214 Piccadilly, London; or 1^ post
from the owner. DAVID MaCBBAYWK, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow.
6IA880W, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF. AND SWANSEA.
OuryiDf goodi flir Zrtwport (Von.) Kwler. OlomMtw, OheUailiam, Aa., te.
The Bcraw StesmsMpo ••Mwav," " ilwm," ** Severn,** Prineeet Aletemdra," or other
Steamers eon intended to aail (onless prevented by drcomstances) ttaax Glasgow.
calling at Greenock.
To Briftol mfi fielfiut every Monday and Thursday at 3 p.m.
To Swansea every PMday ^ 2 p jn.
To Cardiff .,2 pjn.
firiitol to Glasgow vi& Belfast every Monday and Tnnxaday.
Swansea to Glasgow „ „ n Wednesday.
Cardiff to Glaflffow „ Swansea and Belfast every Monday.
ThoM StMiMn kata vary aopeilar matemnodBtian lae pMWfwii. and aflbrd m CMMumUa eppwtanllj fbr
maktaig •Monhwai from Weal of Bngland to Iraland and Seotlaad.
Weene from Otaagow ^-^labln, flOs. Bteerage, Ua. ed. Soldian and SaUors, lOs.
Tares from BalflMt:— „ 17s. ed. „__ lOs.
Botonia :— OaUn and Steerage. Fare and Half, available fbr Two Months.
9ot raiaa of ftaight and ftuihar parttotthm, apfljr to
WILLIAM SLOAN k Co., 140, Hope Street, Glasgow.
UEEN'S HOTEL,
ABERYSTWITH.
THIS Hotel is situate on the Marine Terrace, facing the sea,
and oontaine several Private Sitting Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Ladies'
Drawing Room, Libn^ry, and all its Bedrooms are pleasantly situated.
TABLE D'H8tE AT 6 O'CLOCK DURING THE SEASON.
ABBANGEMENT8 MADS FOB FAMIL1M8.
TARIFF OK APPLICATION.
W. H. PATiMER, Proprietor.
Q
10 HnKRAT>S HANDBOOK ADTBETISE& Ifaqr.
AIX- LES-BAINS.
GRAND HOTEL DE ^EUROPE.
Proprietor, J. BEBNA0COM.
FIBST-OLASa House, admirably BitnaAad near the Caflino,
the Baths, and the English Chnrch. This Hotel is
strongly reconunended to Trayellers for the oomfort of its
arrangements. Good Gardens, with a beantiful view of the
Lake and Mountains. Larg^ mi small Apai^tments for Families
at moderate prices, and a Oh^et in the Garden for Families
vrho may piefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table-
l'H6te. Open, all the Year. LAWJjT TEN2JIS>
Carriages for hire, and an Omnijtms belonging to the
Hotel to mseet every Train..
AJX- LES-BAINS.
HOTEL VENAT ET BRISTOL.
OnSSr AJA TKXS TSAB BiOtriTD^
European Beputaiion. Be-fumighed, with eoitmftive Ghrden.
THE"8PLENDrb" HOTEL,
160 Rooms, situated up Hill^ with Lift, will be
OPXIT the l3t of March, 1884;
ROSBIONOLT, Proprietor.
AIX- LES-BAINS.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
Fixst-Olass Eetablisbment, Open all the Year.
SPLENDID Situation; immenfle Garden; South aspect well shaded;
a veij exteodcd view of Lake Buorgel and the Moqnuina. ItelTfdere, with Use
prospect of the principal points of view, aod Kscuralona. ^^nwU aa^ large Apartnufiiis ;
Salons for FamlUeii; Dvawing Room, Reading Boon, apA iteioking Room, wiih every oonfon
that can be desired. /VencA and Fwtign J^apen*
Amngenients made tor Pension. Private Oairiages. Stabia and Okwcb-hooie.
OmnibtM of ike Hotel meeU every IVat'a
Cya*- R3BNAXTD, PropHetar.
ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN, MONT
PELVOUX, Ac, *Q.
By EDWARD WHYMPEB.
With Mape and BltiBtrationa Medium 8vo. 1<K 6d.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1883.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
11
AIX
eSAVS XOHABQTnB EOIZi:..
doM bf the BaUwAjStattoosuMl the Batba.
VUZLLEH'B HOTZL.
LA-CHAPELLE.
XAI8SBBAI) EOTSL (bnUt in I9n\
The priDdpal Spring rlaes m the Hotel Itself.
-- , HEUBAD HOTEL.
Oppoafta tba JS^oontaln '« Ells*." (Renovated in 1879.)
Vr. a F. DRIICU if die Pnyrlekir of thMt fcar hotolH of Bnopaui npatation. Yb« oowWnatinw in
one hand oC Voor IM»blUh«t«9toof mch macnltade, eq»M«» Mr. Pramd to aflbsd nUlable •ooominadKUon
toallooiMnt toTMiorttowhoa aioiMf is no oI^m*. ■• ««11 •• toputlMdMbovsoC liTi]iir«ta«Qd«nte
• EMWknt Hotels"
* Mnraty.
AIX-UA-CHAPELLE.
llOYERa IMPEEIAL CKOWN HOTEI.,
'^ Dear the KorbAaB and Bath-bonseB, with
)tLTfSfi Qarden. Very oomfortable Apart-
menta. Kngle Booms. Ez«-eUent OooKing,
and attentive attendaooeu Very Iftodeiate
Charges, and advantageous arrangemeataihr
Winter. OTTO HOYKR.
AIX- LA-CHAPELLE.
H OYER'S UNION HOTEL Flret-Cla«8
Hotel, immediately opposite the Rbenii^h
RaiUay Station, and admirably sitoated In
the best part of the dty. Well-known for
its deaJiiees, comiortable apiirunentM,
excellent cooking, aui Moderate Charges.
CHARLES HOYii:K.
AMIENS.
GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN.
PLACE ST. DENIS.
PIBST-CLASS HOTEL, highly recommended, near to the
■^ Cathedral and Railway Station. Affords every acoommodation.
SpaouHia Apaxtmeiita aaid alfy Bed Booipa. Private and Public Saloons.
Warm Baths. Large Garden. Stabling and Coaoh Houses. Omnibus
to and fnm each lYain. Englii^ In^rpreter. The house is newly
famished.
CH. FIOHEXTX, Proprietor.
AMIENS.
rjuTEL DE L'UNTVBBS.— Pirst^lass Hotel, facing St Denis*
*^ Sqnare, near the Railway JStatloQ. Three minutes* walk to the Cathedral Drawing
and firth Booma EOfdisb Interpreter.
Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train.
AMIENS.
H6tEL DE PBANCE, D'ANGLETEBBE, and DB L'BUBOPB
BRU UE, Piopitolor^— First-Class Hotel, one of the oldest on tba Continent. Situated
in the centre and the finest part of the town. Having recently bet n newly fhmlshed, it offei »
great comfort, Famities and Single Qentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of
Apartaseots and Single Rooms.
OMNIBUS AT STATION.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL ST. ANTOUSE.
PLACE VERTE, Opposite the Oatbedral.
THIS ezoellent FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, which enjoys the well-
merited fltrour of Families and Tourists, has been re-purchased ^ lis oM snd well-
known Proprietor, Mr, SCHMl rr SPASNHOVEN, who, with his Partner, wUl do every,
thing in their power to render the visit of all persona who may honour them with ttielr
patronage as agreeable and oomftirtable as poaakble.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
■.O.DBKATB PKICBg.
12
HORRArs HANDBOOK ADVIRTISBR.
M.y,
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DU SBAHD LABOUBEDB.
T^HIS Hotel oocnpies the first rank in Antwerp, and its
^ poaition is most delightful. The tefltimonials given bj Families
is the beat asBnnmoe of its
COMFORT AND MODERATE CHARGES.
HOTEL
AVIGNON.
D'EUBOPE.
HIGHLY recommended to English Travellers on their jonmey to Nice,
Italy, kc FlntrCtua and Modemte Prioex. Tbe Proprteior aod hia Wife haviiig
lived in England, are aware of the wanta'of English TraveUen ; and be aesares ttiem that
their comtort« shall be studied. Omnibas at all Trains.
AVRANCHES.
Ghrand H6tel de liOndres.
FAUVEL, Proprietor,
The best in the Town. Spacious
Garden. English spoken, and English
Newspapers.
BADEN - BADEN.
0«and Bdtal BeUa-VoA,
Ftnt-dMi and Uan» ertabUtbmwit, moit daUfhltal
ritoatta of aU, ia tl>« illM InlitaaHial la the
oentra of a ftn* pftifc. Baaltr wOtopt Anwagt-
RIOTTB, Proprietor.
BADEN - BADEN.
VlCTOItlA HOTEL.
Proprietor, Kr. TBAXZ 0B08E0LZ.
T^HIS is one of the finest-built and best-fomiahed Firstrolass
Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Konaal and Theatre ; it
commands the most charming viewH in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best
Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance
and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals.
~'^ BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE and Dependance.
A U BBAXT SEJOUR.—A. Bouslbb, Proprietor. Thia iivounte and fiivi^ai»
^ Hotel, sttnated near tbe Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of tbe aaott
charming views In Badeo. The Hotel aod Dependanoe consist of One Hnndred sad 8bit7
Slaeplttg ▲partments, elegant aitting-fooms, and a Garden for tbe use of yiattors. Sxtawiv{>
and airy Dining-room, and a comfortable Pnblio Bittlng-rooin, with Piano and Ubrarj. It ie
oondncted ondar tbe Immediate snperlnteodenoe of the ftoprielor, who eDdeaTonra, br tbf
most stilot attentloD aod exceedingly Moderate Prices, to merit the contiooed patmneae ol
BngUflb and American yisitora. EDgflsh aod American Newepapen. Tbe Table d*H6te and
Wtoes of this Hotel are reputed of tbe best qnality In fiwlen. Fixed moderste obains for
«v«r7tbing. Booms from 2(. and upwards.
PSNSION Prices for a longer stay.
1882.
MaBBAT'S HANDBOOK ADYEBTISKB.
13
BADEN -BAOEN.
D£ LA COUR D£ BADE.
e6tel
Badischer Hof.
CNat to he eon/omded wUh the Hdtel de la ViUe de Bade, opposUe the
Baihoay Station,)
A FIRST-RATE and )arge Batabliahment near the Promenade and
the Gonvenatlon House, with extensive Gardens, Wann, Mineral, and oiher Batba,
epjojiqg a weU-merited xvpotsttm fbr Its grettt comfort and attention. It la patronised by
the most dMngaMhed fkalUea.
Manager, Mr. Fr. ZIEOLEB.
' BADEN-BADEN.
h6tEL STADT BADEN.
On the right hand tide and nearest the Station,
COMMANDUIG a deUdoos ylew of the Old Castle and high rocks. Known for its aeui-
Unessi ezoeUent Oooklng» good Attendance, and lixed Moderate Charges.
E. aOBSSLBB, Landlord.
^ BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
FiBRKJLias HovBL. Best Silnation.
HxceOmt Oookinff, and ModarwU Charget.
PENSION.
CARL ULRICH, Proprletol.
BADEN-BADEN.
1CUSBA7S HANDBOOK TOR
KORtH OERXANT.
post 8vo. IOC.
JoHM Murray, Albemarle Street.
BAQNERES DE LUCHON PYR&N^ES.
Hotel BoiAneixiaisoii et de ILiondireSs
OppoeOe thB Springe.
Fint-Claas Hotel Reoommended to Families.
HTE. VIOAIi Filfl, Proprietor.
BAGN^RES DE LUCHON PYR^N^ES.
GRAND H6TEL RICHELIEU.
{Hotel deS.M.leroide HoUande,)
200 Rooms, 10 Salons. Splendid view.
LOUIS SSTRADE, Proprietor.
BAQNERES DE BIQORRE.
Grand H6tel Beau-S^onr.
FiBffr-CLASS.
The most comfortable and the bsK sitiiated.
BOLOQNA.
HOTEL FELLEORINO.
The mofft oential position, and
nnsnrpaased fbr its home comforts
and extremely Moderate Charges.
F. RAVALDONI, Proprietor.
BALE, SWITZERLAND.
HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.
Opposite the Swi« French BaUway Stetion, the healthiest part of the Town.
Moderate Charges. Well Becommended.
L. MERIAN, Proprietor.
U MDRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVESTiaER. lUy,
BAMBERG (GERMANY).
HOTBIi ZU DSN DREI KRONEN.
1EEG0HMEKD my newly-famished and airanged Hotel, ritosfeed in
th« middle of Uh* Town, to all Traveltoi* and Aunilies. Ftrst-Caatv Board. Pure
Winaa, and exceUeot Service. Moderate Prices. Oamibna at the StoOon on tbe aniral ol
twj Txato. GKiTiagOB. Alflo Wann and Cold Batha In the Hotel.
L A. Bfi&HfiEUTHEB, Ute Proprietor of the Hotel *< Zum Hirach " at Mcrgentheim.
BARCELONA.
GRAND H6TEL BES QUATBE NATIONS.
IN THE RAMBLA.
THE largest and finest Hotel in Barcelona; most adrantageonsly situated in
the beat position in the Bambla, fkcing th^ Teatro Prinelpal, and dose to the Post and
Tetapaph Offlcea. 9ua Stmtkem MpecL aiUnred and newly deoorated. Table d'Udte.
Private Seryioe. Lafgs and small Aparanenta. Many Fii»^ilaoea. Baih. Reading Boom,
wlih Piano. Smoking Boom and Parlour. Forei^ Ifewspapen. Oarrlagea of everr
deecription. Great Oomfort and CleuUDeas. Frtnek Cuittne. Omnibos-at Baflvay
SUtlooa. Interpreters. Moderate Terma. BngUsh and Gecmsn Spokn. AnvBgemeots
ior FensloD dnxtng ths Winter Season.
BELFAST.
THK IMPERIAL. HOT^SIi.
Just Be-^kcorated and Enkwged. Ftnt-Class. B0gl Situation,
Omnibuaes meet all Trains and Steamers.
W. J. JUBY, Pzoprietar.
BELUVGIO (Ugo di Como).
GRAND HOTEL BELLAGIO.
^NE of the finest in Europe, containing 200 Booms,
80 Sitting Booms, and aorioanded by a splendid Park and Garden.
FoU yiew of all three Lnkea and the Mountains. Hot and Gold Baths.
Douches. Equipages and Boats attaohed to the Hotel English Sernoe.
Moderate Oharges. Daily arrangements. Highly recommended. Open
all the Tear.
Ij. BHBITBCHMTD, Proprietor.
BERLIN.
h6TE1Li D'ANGLETERRE.
% flOHIHEEL-PLACX, SL
SITUATED or THK rZNEST AND MOST KLBGAKr FABT OF TBJB TOWN.
Hear to the Boyal Palaoeib Mnaeuma, and Theatres.
SINGLE Tiavellets «ad large Ramlliea oan be sooommodnted with entire doltea of Apsn*
manta, oooatsaog of sptoidid Saloons, aliy Bedrooms, to^ all faraiabed and caipelcd
in the beat BogUah atyle. First-rate Table d'HOte, Batha, Eqnipagea, Qnidea. tSmm asd
gsHyaoiiftiftiMiifsrisiBenln. Bsridenoe of Her Brltfih M^esigrs Hi
0'
B. 8IEB1II»I8T| Pxopriefeor.
18^2.
MQBRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
16
BErt LIN.
HOTEL DU NORD.
UNDER THE UME TREES.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, CLOSE TO THE IMPERIAL
PAUCE AND THE THEATRES.
Beautiful 'Dining Room, frssJUy Decorated.
EXCELLENT CUISfNE. MODERATE PRICES.
ENGLISH NJSWSPAPEBS.
FEBD. SCHMIDT, Pbopbiktor.
HOTEL DE RDSSIE.
THIS well-known FIBST-OLABB HOTEL, newly restored
and handsomely deoorated, and situated in the most attraoting part
of the Oity, facing the Impezial Castle,
NEAR UNTER DEN LINDEN,
rcoommeudB iUelf fot the e<anfart it o<feis to iti Vinton.
CABL FRIEDBICH EUHRT.
BERLIN.
THE KAISERHOF.
Wilhelmsplatz. Zietenplatz.
^HE laigest and moat commodious first-Class Hotel in Berlm. Situated
^ in an elegant, quiet, and magniiloent paxt of the dty.
ST.
BERLIN.
PETEBBBUBG
HOTEL.
Unter d«n Linden 31.
The Table dOIte aod WioM of this Hotel
are reputed of the best qoalllgr in Berhn.
Fixed HCbdefate''^
JULES SJSUDTLASS, Pfoprittor.
B0T2EN, SOUTH TYROL.
HOTEL VIOTORU.
Opposite the RaUway Staiion,
First Class,
H. 8CHMID.
16
MfTRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADYKKTISSR
Maj,
BIARRITZ.
h6tel des princes.
A LARGE and beantifdl Hotel with a fine new of the Sea. Thu Hotel
will be firaod mott BoitoUe for EDaUah f amUles and G«»tltaMiL Escellent cooking.
ExaptiooAl arranc«meDtB oaa be m«de for pension. ICDgllsb spoken.
E. COI7ZAIK, Proprietor.
BOLOGNA.
Murray's Handbook for
North Italy.
Post 8vo. 10s.
JOHN MQRBAT, Albemarle Street.
OROWa AMB OAVAIiOABKIiIiE.
History of Painting in
North Italy,
From 14th to 16th Ontary. With lUin-
tratfons. avoLb 8vo. 43t.
JOHN MURRAT,
THE GOLDEN 'star HOTEL.
r[S First-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronised by the
English Boyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the
nearest Hotel to the Bailway Station, and to the Landing-
plaoes of the Rhine Steamers. The Proprietor, Mr. J.
BGEMITZ, begs leave to recommend his Hotel to Tourists.
The Apartments are comfortably furnished and carpeted w
the best style, and the chafes are moderate. Arrangementf
for the Winter may be made, on the most moderate terms.
BORDEAUX.
HdTBL DE PARIS.
FIRST-LASS HOTEL
Mvch fl«4ainted 1^ English end Aiaarican
Travellers.
BORDEAUX.
MUBUAY^B HANDBOOK
FOB FBAIlfOQBL
Parti. PostSvo. 1t.9d. New Edttko.
Bevtaedtodate.
JOHN MURRAY, Albenarla Street.
BOULOGNE -SUR-MER.
GRAND HOTEL GHRI8T0L & BRISTOL.
Fiirst-elaiss Hotel.
Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended
for Families and Gentlemen.
Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Traiiu and Boats.
F, OHRISTOL, Proprietor and Manager.
BOULOQNE-SUR-MER.
FAMILY HOTEL AND BOAEDING HOUSE,
87 Sn 89, RUE DE THIERS.
Eatablithed 1845. Near the Port, Very comfortabU, ModeraU Oon/M.
Proprietor, L. BOUTOHjIiB.
1882. MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVSRTISER. 17
BREMEN.
HOTEL DE KEUROPE.
Fint'CloBs Xn^49h Hotel. Entirely Senavated. Eighlf Beeonme»ded.
LVSGHE-BA1TE. I'roprietor.
ir«rm«rl.nf i HOTEL BADE AU LAC. ZURICH.
yonnwy 0^ \ HOTEL DB RP88IB, BERLIN.
BRUGES.
GRAND HOTEL DU COMMERCE.
FIB8T-GLAS8 HOTEL.^Proprietor, 0. YANDrar Bebohs. The lanrest
and oldest Ho^l of th« Town. Comfort. Noderate Chu«ea.
Special Omnibus.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL MENGELLE
(BITS BOTAliE).
B. MENGELLE, Proprietor.
THIS large and beantifnl Fint-ClaM Hotel is sitnaied in the finest and
most liMltbT' part of the Tkywn, near to the Promenadea the moat frequented, and la
soppUed wtih every modem acoommodation and oomfni. Table d'HOte at 6 aod 7. is
Atb franoi. Kertaorant h U carte, and at fixed pr&efa, at any hoar. BzoeUent •* Cnlsfne '*
and Choice Mines.
Baths, Smoking Boom, Beading Boom, Billiard Boom.
Armtigemmie made wUk Familiee during ike Winter Season,
BRUSSELS. ~~
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE,
PLAGE ROTALE.
The Best Sitnatioii in Bmssels, near the Park, Boyal Palace,
Bonleyardsi Museum, and Piotnre Galleries.
Table d^Hdte.
ENGLISH SPOKEN,
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'EMPEREM.
63, RUE NEUVE. Patronised by Prinoe Teck.
THIS old-eBtabltBhed Fint-Claas Family Hotel is very oonyeniently
sitaated near the Stotion dn Nord. Poat and Telegraph OflBoes and Theatre de U
Vonnato. The new Proprietor, who apeaka Engllah, haa repleted It wtth every modem
comfort. 60 Bed Rooms, private Dining and Sluing Booma. Saoellent Table d'Hdie
Cboioe Wtaies. Terma Moderate. English Newtpaoera. Attendanto apeak £ngUah. BaUm
in the Hotel. Arrangementa made for a protracted stay. Rooma from 8 iraoca.
K.B.--A spedality la the beantifol Garden adjoining the HoteL
Proprietor* HENB7 DOBQELOH.
18 HtTRRArS HANDBOOK ADYSBTmS. JStj,
BRUSSELS.
HdTEL n LA FOSTE,
fitJB POSS^AUX-LOUPS,
NBAn THS PLACJB DS LA MONNAIE.
This Hotel, specially freqaented by English and Americans, is situated ia the
centre of the Town, and near the priDcipal Theatres.
BEST TABLE D'HdTE. MODERATE 0HAROE8.
Enolish Spokbn. OiimBUB at ths Btatiqn.
BRUSSELS.
n.UKD s6lteL DB fmXZ, TT and 79 UVt KfeUTt!. Admlntbly
^^ tictuited near the Bonlev&rds. Tbeatrefl, and two minotes' walk from tte Nortb
Ballwaj Stations. Tbto BstablMtaieKit, wbleta bas be«n oomideFably enlarged, poMessra
nowamo«t splendid l)in{o|^-room, and oifers to Families and SlnKle Travellers i>pacione,
comfortable, airy Apartmeni^s. niift in trurif Akmm — Fiooid Prices :— i*lain Breakikvi, l£r.
260. Two chops or steaks, or bam and eggs, Ifr. 60o. Table d'Hdte at fire o'dodc, Sfr. 60 c
Prtvafis Dinners from Bfr. ded-rooms, Indsdlng llght» ifr. Me. ; ^Sfr. Me.; «fr.^fir tbe
firit night: and for the following nfgfat, Sfr. SOc. ; Sfr. { 6fr. ; and 4fr. Sttking-rooBM from
Sfr. to lafr. Attendance Ifr. per ntgfat. London "Times " and ** iUostrated LmidoQ News'"
taken in. Traveltore having only a few bouri to spend In fimssels between the departure
of the trains, can have reft«hm<>nts or dinner at aoy bonr. The Waterloo Coach leaver
the Hotel at 9.30 oHdoek every morning. Private Garrisges for Waterioo 28fb, every
expense incloded. Table d*Hdte at 6.30 p.m., 6fr.
HEKRT KSRVXETD, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
BOB KOTAI.S AHD ICOKTAaKB DX7 PABO.
Proprietor, JOHN JAHBS BABBEB.
THE beautiful situation of this Hotel (adjoining the Pork), the
Moderate Oiargie. excellent Cnlsine. and greaUy Improved arrangements for the
comfort of Visitors, renders it especially deserving the patronage of Travellers. Re«ltna
and Smokintt Rooms. Rnglisb, French, and German Papers taken. EogUah and otho-
Srincipal Languages spoken. Kooms frrom 8 fr«ncs opwards. Table d'H6te (at half-fMvt
vs o'clock la Winter, six in Summer), 6 frsncs.
ArrangemenU made vtntH Familiet dt&irtg Ihe Winter Monihe.
BRUSSELS.
h6tbl DE SUiSDE.
FIB8T-CLILBS HOT£L» in a «borotoglay centrsl positioa near tie Nsw BctelnvtrJa.
EXCBLLEKT TABLB B'HOTB. CHOICB WINB8.
VAN OUTSEM, ProprietoT.
BRUSSELS.
rfttlLtFbBD'S HOTEL.~^o. 20, opposite the Sablon Chutdh, prte la Place Foyale.
X^ The rooms sie wptl adapted and carefally arranged to meet the reqtilrtttrnts of
Families and stnc^e travellers. I^ndtcs' J ^rawing Room. Rooms fhnn 2 ftancs and upwards.
Breakftsts, Tea or Coffee with Steak, Chops, or Ham and Eggs. 2 franc* ; with &rn.
ifrane SO cents. Tabte d'H^ «p.m.. 3 francs SOeenta. Refreshments to order silay
honr. Wines, SpbrlU. Beer, fcc., of the best quality.
188S. WnaukTB EJHaSBOOK ADTEBnSBB. 19
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNITEES,
BUB NEUVIS,
Haa a Wide Entrance from the New Bouleyards, which places it in one
of the beet and most adTantageonfi positions in the city. A Fini-olass
Honse for Families, to be recoo.mended for its Comfort and Moderate
Prices. Table d'Hdte, Bestanrant, iSmoking-room, Beading-room.
ArrangemenU made for Vie Winter Seaeon, or for a prolonged reeidoMe,
SGHO£FFTER-WnCRTZ, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS
GRAND HOTEL GERNAY.
Moderate Okargee. Aneien PropriOaire de VH6UI de PoHugal h Spa.
This Hotel is close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp,
sad Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord.
BUXTON.
CRESCENT HOTEL, DERBYSHIRE.
THIS Firsi-Glass Hotel is dose to the Bailway Stations. Connected
Ij a Cbyered Oolonnsd*' with tbe Hut and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and New
Pavilion and Gardens. Public Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and BiUlazd Booms. Suites of
ApertmentsfDrPriTateFlUBllleB. Table d'H6le st Six p.m. Terms strictly moderate.
JOHN BMIIiTXR, Fropriator.
CAEN.
HOTEL gil D'ANGLETERRE,
Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81.
Sitnated in the Centre of the Town. Kendezvons of the
best Society.
100 Elegantly Fitmithed and Comfortable Bed Booms and
Sittiitg Booms.
BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE.
BIHHEIR AT TABLE B'MdTSp 4 MAH€So
SUITKS OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES.
ENaLISH ANO SPANISH SPOKEN.
L. MANGEL, Proprietor.
20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ma^,
CAIRO, EQYPT.
H6T£L ROYilL.
THIS Firsi-ClaBs Hotel, newlj built, is situate on the
BOULEVARD DE L'ESBEKIEH, in the oentie of the finest part
of Oairo. Newly fumiahed tbronghont. This Hotel is recommended to
travellers for its comfort and moderate charges. There are also
BEADING, CONVERSATION, AND BILLIARD BOOMS.
BATES AND HTDBOPATHIC DOVOHBB,
FINfi GARDEN LiEAOINO UP TO THE HOTEL.
AN OMNIBUS TO MEET ALL TRAINS.
PBIOES FROM 10 TO 12 SHILLINGS A DAY.
ISIDORE ROMAND, Proprietor.
CANNES.
HOTEL BEAU SITE.
CITUATED at the West end of Cannes^ adjoining Lord
Brougham's property ; the finest part of the Town. Newly
enlarged. 200 Booms. 20 private Sitting-rooms. Beading
and Smoking-rooms, and English Billiard-tahle.
Sheltered Situation, commanding an unequalled view of the
Sea, the lies L^rins, and the Ester el Mountain. Liarge I
heautiful Gardens, Promenades, and Lawn Tennis helonginj; '
to the estate. Arrangements made for the Season for Families. '
Moderate Oharges. Bath-rooms and Lift.
Omnibuses at the Station.
OPENED THE IST OF OCTOBER.
GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor.
1883.
MDBBAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
21
CANNES.
WINDSOR HOTEL.
THIS First-CIass Family Hotel is beautifully aitaated, not
too far from the Town and the Sea, of which, however, it enjoys an
extenalTe view. Batha. Smoking and Billiard Boom. Laige and
sheltered garden.
Most Comfortable Apartments and Careful
Attendance.
ED. SGHMID, Proprietor.
HOTEL
CANNES.
DES
PINS.
piRST-OLASS Hoiel. Highly leoommended by Physicians for its
*- salnbrity and its sanitary situation.
Ij. GBENET, Proprietor.
CA8TELLAMARE
(Kear Vaples.)
GRAND HOTEL ROYAL.
rpHE only first-claM EstAbUihmeni in the
•L towB. SplvDdld Boom, with m \mtn Qudn.
Healthj poaitlaii, oraoiita the wa. Ytow of th«
FampdL 0urii««i
A.B1DrOGinZ.
fcr BKcoxtloni.
Tvopnelov.
CANNES.
XUBRAT'S HAKDBGOE
TO 7RANC1G.
PfertIL PoetSvo. U,Bd.
JOHN MURRAY. Albenutfle Street.
CHAMONIX.
GRAin) HOTEL D'MGLETERRE.
Fiist-dass Hotel, with splendid view of Mont Blana
J. CRBPAUX, Proprietor.
1 CHAUMONT-NEUCHATEL.
HOTEL Da OHAUMONT, near Nenohatel, Switzer-
land. 3.500 feet high. Open from the 18th Jnne till end of
September. Kept by 0. BITZMANK. Proprietor of the Hotel Suisse,
Gannee. Post and Telegmph Office. Billiards.
GarriagM in the Hotel.
0HRI8TIANIA OTorway).
GRAND HOTEL.
J. FSrrZirEB, Proprietor.
^FHIS First-Olaas Hdtel, delightfnlly situated in the beat
-^ part of the Town, opposite the Pablic Parks, the House of Parlia-
ment, and close to the Boyal Palace, commands a charming view of the
Ghristiania Fjord, and the surrounding mountains. Table d'H6te. Warm
and Ck>ld Baths in the Hdtel. English Newspapers taken in. Omnibus
at the Bailway and Steam-boat Stations. Moderate Obarges.
HURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISBR.
CHESTER.
THE GROSVENOR HOTEL.
FIRST -GLASS, situated in the centre of the Oitj, oloie to the
GftthadnO, The Rows, Citj Walla, and other olt)ecta of IntcnM.
A Lai^ 0»ire«>Boom and Ladiee* Drawlng-Room for the ooQTenienet of Lailias and
FamlUea The Bedrooms are large and handsomeW furnished.
Open and cloae oarrlagei^ and Poattng in all tts Brancbea.
OmniboMt attend the Train* ftur the uae of Yiaitore to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on
application. A Dlgbt Fortar in atteodanoe. 3>A'VTD FOSTEB, Kanacwr.
CHRISTIANlAi NORWAY.
HOTEL ROYAL.
W. WELGE, Propkietor.
FIBST-GLASS HOTEL,
OPKWtTE TBX
RAILWAY STATION AND HARBOUR.
1882. MUKRAT'S UANDBOOK AOVKKTISKK. 23
COLOGNE ON THE RHINE.
JOHAOTf MARU FARINA,
GEGENUBER DEM JUUCffS PLATZ
(Oppo^la tlM JtMich't PUoe).
PVBVBTOB TO H.M. QUUS FIGTOBIA^
TO H. H. fl. THE PBUiGB OF WALBSi
TO H. M. WILLIAM KUHik QV Pfi089U; THB BMKBBOB Of BUaUA;
THK EMPEROR OK AUSTRIA.;
THE lONtf OF DEJiTMARE, EIU ETCw
ONLY GENUINE EAU Lti COLOGNE,
vrkieK MoitudtUoolu friw Me^ ^warded toSaude (Mogne at the ParU JSadHbUion
4^1867.
'PHE freqaenoy of mistakM, which are MOMtamet Mcidental, bat tor the most
-^ pert the rasolt of deoe|>tioii pnetbed by Interested tifedividiula» taktooee ne to leqnest
the ettentloa of EngUeh tr*yei]ere to the foUowliig stalemeot :~
The ftvovftble npatetion which my Ean de Cotofne bee aoqulred, iliice Ite toYentloD by
my enoestor In the yeer 1709, bee indnoed meny people to Imitete it; end In order to be ebl
to aell their spoilooi ertide more eeeUy, end mider pretext that It wee gemine, they pro-
eared themeelvee e Arm of Farina, by entering taito pertoerriaip with peraooi of my name,
which le ft yery aanmen one In Italy.
Peraons who wUh to porcbeoe tk» gmmfm md trigkud Aw de Ookgm e«gbt to be pertl-
ealar toeee thai the kbeie end the bottles baTS not only my oaoUb Johttrnt Maria foxima^
bat also the sddittonal wotds, gtgmtObtr dm /tffafc** i>)ate (that Is. oppoelto the JnUch's
Place), wtihoat eddUloo of amy nomber.
TrayeUeis vlsltlqg OolQgne» end Intending to boy my genuine artlde, ere cautioned against
being led astnj by oebnen, gnldee, oommlBslonerB, and other parties, whooflbr their serrloei
to theaou I therefora beg to state that my mamifantnre and shop are in the aeme hoaee,
oltuated ^gpotiU the Jnllch's Plaee, end nowhere elae. It beppens too, freqnentty, that the
naid pereone ooodnot the nnlnftraoted strangers te shops of one of the fictltloiis Anns, where,
notwithstanding aasertioB te the contrary, they are remimerated with nearly the half pert of
the price paid if the pnrchaBer, who^ of coarse, most pay Indlrsetly this rsnsoention by a
high price end a bed article.
Another kind of Imposition Is practised In almoet eveiy hotel la OtflegDe, wham walten^
oommtosbmer^ te.. oObr to strangen Ean de Ootogne, pretending that It le the gantdne one,
and that I deUTered H to them fbr the poxpoee of eelUng U for my eeeoimt
Hm only certain way to get in OolDgDe mf genuine aidcie le to buy It penonaQy at my
houaebSffosMfiM J«Mab'fi>im.iiDnnii«theeomerQfthe two streets. Untsr Ooldsobmldt
and Oben Menptertan, No. SS. and having In the Itait ste baloonles. of which the three
b«ar my name and firm. Joktum Jtaria FUrina, Gegenflber dem JOllcb's Plata.
The eseeUeneeof my meniSwiBie has been put beyond aU doubt by the lust that the
/uremof the Orsat Bxhlbltloos In London, 1861 and 1882. awarded to me the Prtie Model ;
that I obtataed honoumble mention at the Oreat Exhibition in Paris, 1868; and receired
the only Priee Medal awarded to Eau de Oologne at the Paris ExhlMOon of 1887. end in
Oporto 1885.
CoLOon, /oniMiv. 1882, JOHANN MARIA FARINA,
GEGENtfBER DEM JOLICH'S PLATZ.
J. & R. M'CBAOKBir, 38, Quem SHreei^ Oamon Strtet, KC,
ar$ my 3oie AgenU for Qreat Britain and Ireland,
24
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
COBLENTZ.
GIANT HOTEL— HOTEL DU GEANT.
THE best sittiated First-ClaM Hotel, just oppoeite the landiDg-plaoe of
the Sfeeam-boftU tad FortratB Ehrenbreitsteln. ExoaUent CulsiDe and OBllar.
If odento Gfaiirgei. Bednalon for a long reaideoce.
Propbibtors, EISKKMANN Bfioa
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DISCH.
Pint-Glau HAtel wmW refitted : near the
Cathedral and Gentral Stotion. Omnlbiues
meet vrtry Train. Larn stock of Cboloe
Wines for wholesale.
F. CffRISTOPff, Proprieior.
COLOGNE.
h5tel du d6m]b.
Ta. llKn.~Thto oU and Moellnit HooBft. advn-
UfMvdy dtnatod in ilie e«iti« of Um City, aaw tbt
0«th«dnJ and the Outtnl Baamj WUOtm, b«
aadMVQtt* ImpaRlaat iatmowmataM thai aake it
Tcry oomfortobta. TaU^'Heto 1 o'okak. 0U» fc
Dome aitjolnlw the H ~ ~ - - -
UdiTcmritta. ^wrn»M
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Thb PROPBiaTOB of the
HOTEL DANGLETERRE
(MISSIBIE),
In view of the great nmnber of FamUies aud Gentlemen trayeUing in this
Capital, has thought it expedient to fit up a Branch for the aooommoda-
tion of the aame, consisting of the
For some time the residence of H.B.M.'8 AmbasMdor, Sir H. Elliot, His
Majesty the Emperor of the Brazils, and lately, for two months, at His
Ezoellenoy the Marquis of Salisbury. It is needless to eaj anythin^in
praise of the fine position and splendid Tiew on the Golden Horn. The
Ajrtangements are thoroughly comfortable, and the Furniture flxst-dass.
The Hotel is within two minutes' walk of the British Embassy; and the
Arrangements have given the greatest satisfaction to the aboye high
personages. Thel^prietor begs to inform Gentlemen travelling, t£»t
Doth Establishments are provided with every deeiirable comfort, Ooides,
and Attendants; and at Prices calculated to suit passing TraveUera. as
well as thoae making a prolonged stay.
T, LOGOTHETTL
COPENHAGEN.
HOTEL KONGEN OF DENagABK.
THIS First-Glass Hotel, much frequented bj the highest
class of English and American Travellers, aiR>rds flnt-rate aoocm-
modation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close
to the Boyal Palsoe, overlooking the King's Square. Ezoelleitt Table
d'Hdte. Private Dinnen. Best attendance. Beading Boom. Hot
Baths, Lift. English, French, German, and American Newspapers.
All Languages spoken.
Very Moderate Charges, The only Vienna Coffee Bouae,
R. KLUMi Proprietor.
I88a HCRRArS HANDBOOK ADTERTISIR. 2S
CORFU.
HdTEL ST. GEOBGE.
THIS FIRST-LASS HOTEL, very weH Bituated on the best side of
the KipUniU', oIom to the Boy*l Mace* to fitted ap after the Eogllah •tyle, affording
fini-rale aeeommodaUoa for FomiUee And Sinxle Gentlemen. Excellent PenBion, and
pricaa Ttry modcate. A laiM addicioo to the Hotel Jnst now flnlsbed nukoa it ooo of the
Akoe will find here the efeateet comfort and best attendance. The Hotel ia under the
petranafft of Khag Qeotgeuthe Emperor of AnatrU, and the Grand Dnkeof MecUenborgh.
Madame Y^^ 8. P. MAZZUOHY A FIL9, Proprietors.
COWES, Isle of Wight.
DROYER'S MARINE HOTEL.
PARADE, ISLE OF WIGHT.
FIRBT-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.
The Comfort of YiBitors oarefdllj' studied. Board on Low
Terms during the Winter Months.
I CREUZNACH.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE.
11HI8 FIKST-CLASS HOTEL offers superior accommodation at very Moderate Cbargni •
to Famlltea and Slngls Gentlemen. It Is sHoated In the finest and healthiest part of
the town, and la suroandsd by a beantlfal Gaiden. It Is fitted «p after the English and
American stjie. Splendid large Dining Booms, and newly fitted-up Oonversation Saloon.
Gomlbrtable and weU-fnmlshed Apartnents (with many Batoooles). Good Baths. Excel-
lent Board. Arrangements can be made for a protracted stay. Penidon m Winter.
^___^ FOLTYNBgl A WOOG, Proprtetors.
CREUZNACH (BAD).
PRIVATE HOTEL BAUM.
FIBST-OLASS Family Hotel, best titaated. Groat cleaDlinew. Com-
fortable Baths. BeantiM Garden. Ezoellent Cooking, Choioe Wines.
Pension moderate charges. Becommended.
JXAV BAPTISTS BAXTIC, Propxistor.
][ CREUZNACH (BAD).
HOTEL KAUTZENBERG.
rpHlS FIrA-GIaas Hotel Is beautifally situated, dose to the Korhaos, adjoining the Prcnne-
1 nade. Large Garden. Buths in the Hotel. TheTabled'Hdteand Wines of this Hotel
are repated the beet in Creosnach. Moderate (Charges.
P. BI8BNBBICH, Proprietor.
DIJON.
GHAUT) HOTEL DE BOURGOGNK Near the Station.
Well situated in an open Square. Enlarged in 1880. Apartments
for Families. Table d'Hote. Carriages. English Newspapers. Omni-
buses to meet all Trains.
Wines Exported by the Fropzietor.
a MOBBAt^ HANDBOOK ADVEttmm. Mmy,
DIEPPE.
Fating (he BeeuA, eloie to (he Bathing Sttabluhment and (he Parade
TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS
-L ur IMBPPB, oommandinK * bMHitlfoi And octMrtv* Vtanr of tte Sn. VkmtUw Md
iimtimum. TiMidag Dieppe wUl find at this Kstabildimcuk clegut Luga and 8BBall Apvt-
HMnU, and ttat best of aeoomiBodaUon, a* 'mej nuaoMXHm jAom. LtHrgA Ifwdliig Bmhi,
Willi Pmoh and SogUsh Mcmpapan. Tte BafrMhtteiiti, Jkl, am of tbe bMfc qaall^. Ib
teo^ thia Holel foliar bean oni and deaerrw tba ftvooMblB apftnlan mjaumd of It in
Mamj'a aod odMrOidde Booha.
LAB80NNEUX, Piopristor.
DIJON.
HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE.
Mr. GOISSBT, Pbopbxitor,
lUITE near the Bailway Station^ at the entranoe of the
J Town. Finit-C^aw Honse of old reputotioD. EBlaiged in 1S70.
ApartmentB for Families. GaniageB for drireB. Table d'Hdte and
Service in private. Beading Boom. Smoking Boom. English ^Kikan.
Exportation of Borg^nndy Wines.
GBANS HdTEL GOISSST will be Open in 1888.
Q'
DIJON.
h6TEL DU JURA.
M. LOUIB MBBGIEBt Proprietor.
THIS Hotel is the nearost to the Bailway Station, the Cathe-
dral, and the Public Gwden Saloona. Apartmeoto and Room for FamUiea.
Table d'Hdte. Private Orriagaa for hire by the boar. Engliah NewqMi|)eri.
Omnibat to carry pasaengers to and from each train. Engliah ipoken. The
{(reatest attention is paid to Engliah riaiion. Bnreaa de Change In the HettL
Cbnaiderably enhiged and newlj foraiahed, 1875. The beil Baxgimdy Wines
shipped at wholesale prices.
DINARD, ILLE ET VILAINE (Brittany).
GRAND HOTEL DU CASINO.
THIS First-GlasB Hotel is the nearest to the Casino and
Bathing Establishment. Splendid View from the Teiraoe
adjoining the Oarden of the Hotel. Private Dining Saloons
and Smoking Booms. Table d'Hdte at II o'ekek a.m. and
6 o'clock p.m. Terms from 12 to 15 fhincs per day. Excellent
Cooking. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. Stabling.
L. BIABDOT, PbopbixtoB. BOUDIN FILS, Suoosbbxub.
IMS. MOuutys UAMbbdoK AOVitBttsek. ^
DRESDEN.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
nnHIS Fiist-rate Establisliment^ situated near the great public
-L Promenade, and five minutes from tUe Central Station for
Prague, Vienna, Berlin, Munioh, Frankfort, combines comfort
witb elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a spacious
and beautifid Garden.
TWO SUPEBIOR TABLES D'HOTE DAILY.
PRIVATE DINNERS AT ANY HOXTR.
During tiie Winter^ Board and Lodging at very moderaU rates.
lir. Wuua ha« an eztensiYe Stock of the best Bhenteh^
BordeawBy Burgundy^ and Spanish Winee^ and wOl be most
happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices.
DRESDEN.
h6tel bellevue.
Situated on the riter Elbe, facing the new Opera, the Gal-
leries, the Green Vaults, Cathedral, and Bruhl's Terrace.
Well-known First-Olass Establishment, with 150 Booms.
Families desirous of taking Apartments for the Winter can
make arrangements at very moderate prices.
LOtTZS RiISTSL^ Kaaa^er.
DRESDEN.
WEBER'S HOTEL.
ENGLISH and American yisitors desiring a comfortable resi-
dence are respectfully invited to give this Hotel a trial.
It is situated in a delightM part of the city, overlooking the
Promenades, Gardens, and Galleries. Handsome Dining Boom.
Beading Boom well furnished with American, French, and
English Newspapers. During the Winter, pension at very
adyontageous terms.
BXRNHARD WZBXRi Proprietor.
28
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADYBRHSSS.
DOVER.
ESPLANADE HOTEL.
lOR FamlllM, Q«ntlenien, and Tourists.
_' PlHMDtly sttukted on tb« Murine
Promenade, and near tbe BaUwaj Stattona
and Skeam-Paoketo. WeU-appeinled General
Coffee Kooma. W. CRSSFORD.
JIC
EQGISCHHORN, VALAI8.
HOTBL JTJNGFItAn.
Open lat June. Beftottful Olimate.
Splendid Tiew. Penaion.
CATHREIN, Proprietor.
EMS.
DARMSTADT HOTBIi AND PEBSIOIT.
THIS FIBST-OLASS HOT78E, of an old reputation, is the nearost to
the Mineral Springs and fiatfaa and the Imperial residence. Splendid dtnatloB, tiltli
pvery comfort and Moderate Charges. The Milk used in the Hotel is supplied ih>m the
Propriflftor's own Carm, where there are also good stables.
TH. BilBfllCy, PnprieU^.
ENCELBERQ.
THE VALLEY OF SNaELBBBa (SaoO ft. high) with its
KURHAUS AND h6tEL SONNENBERG,
THE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay nnrivalled by its gimnd
Alpme scenery, as well as by the curative ttRcacy of the climate against long and chest
diseases, cooghs. nervous ailments, &c., Ac. Clearhradng air, equable temperature. Becom>
mended by the highest medical antborities. The HOTEL SONNENBEBG in the flacst
and healthiest sttuaUon lacing the TitUs snd the Oladen is one of the most comrcrtahle
and best managed hotels in Swltserlaod. Lawn Tennis Oronnd. Excellent and oentrsl
place for sketching, botanlslng. and the most varied and interesting ezcunionSk Tbe
ascent of the Utile is best made ftom here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths.
Watersprtng6<'B.; aoo Booms; Pension from Tfr.adaj upwards. Becanssof ItososheltOTcd
situatioo specially adapted for a stay in Msy and June. Besident IBngUsh Phyridaa.
English Divine Service.
ENGELBERQ, SWITZERLAND.
KURHAUS HOJEJ^ET PENSION TITUS.
FIBST-OLASS HOTEL in the best ntaation of tbe Tall^, in the
middle of an extenBive garden. It poBfleeaes the best reoommeudi^
tionB of English Families.
ENQLI8H AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS.
jVet0 Engluik Oha^ in ihe Garden of ihe Hotd.
ED. OATTANI, Proprietor.
ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL,
WITH FULL VIEW OF THE QBAKD OLD CATHEDRAL.
PatroBiiea by tiM best Tamilias.
BILLIARD ROOM, MODBRIT TARIFF.
J. tt STANBURY. AvpHsCor.
FRANKFORT O. M.
P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCBSSOBS,
BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE.
ChandeUtnfcT Go* and OnndUt in Cflatt and SratM,
Correspondent In England, Mr. LOUIS HENLI&. 8, Bodge Bow, Gbmion Sk, London, E.C
hO'
1882. MURIUrS HANDBOOK AD7RRTISER. 29
HOTEL PENSION^ BELLEVUE.
Well4c0pt Establishment, in the midst of a large well-shaded Garden.
60 Bed Rooms. Pension 6 f . a day.
J. SUTTEBLIN, Proprietor.
GENEVA. "'
•TEL DES BERGUES.
ICme. Vve. FBBDEBIC WACHTEB, Froprietress.
The Hotel, one of the largest in Geneya, is in a deligbtfal situation— near the English
Chnrch and the General Railway Station ; it has an uninterrupted view of Mont Blanc and
the Alps. A Ltft of superior ooostnictlon ; large Conservatoiy. Families or Single Gontle-
men will find every accommodation and comfort which a flrsi-class Hotel can afiimrd. Tahle
d'H6te at 6 o'clock. EzceUent Batbs in the Hotel.
7 GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE.
THE LARGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA.
MAYER ft KUNZ, Proprietors.
GENOA.
GRAND HOTEL DE G^NES.
ICessis. L. BONEBA AND BBOTHEBS.
PIiAOlC OABIjO FELICX, the most beautiful situation in the City.
(FUlil. SOUTH.)
This Hotel, formerly the Palasao Marchese Splnola, was newly opened and entirely
re-furnlBbed about two years ago. Its situation, opposite the celebrated Theatre Oarlo
Felice, on the Piazza de Ferrari, the healthiest part of the town, in the vicinity of the
Knglish Church, the Tdqgraph, the Post Office, the principal Public Buildings, and near
all the curiosities in the town ; firee from the noise of toe Railway and the Harbour. Laroe
and smaU Aparunents. Table d'Hdte. Restaurant. Reading and Smoking Saloon. BaUi
Rooms. (Himibus from the Hotel meets every Train. Moderate Charges.
"^ GENOA. NERVi.
HOTEL LONDRSS WINTER RENDEZYOOB, SHELTERED
ET PBNSION AHOLAISB. ^^i^Juomrl^m^-
''" Th^ F^^^J*"*^ h6tBL «Ul PEH8IOT VICTOBIA.
Modmit, Prices. ""O"' *"»» ^^"^ OAsoar.
QMUNDEN, AUSTRIA.
FACING the Steamboat landing-place. Comfortable First -Class
Hotel. Highly recommended. Mr. BRACHER, the Proprietor, has been in EnglunJ
and America* and knows the wants of English and American Travellers. Cbargis mode-
rate. Omnibus at the Station. Baths in the Hotel.
' GOTHA.
HOTEL DEUTSCHER HOF.
Proprietor, Ij. BTABBLEB.
FIB8T-RATB HOTEIi, situated close to the Promenades and near
the Railway Station; combines comfort With elegance. Baths in the House.
Carriages.
30 jnjRRArS HANDBOOK ADVKKTISER. M^y,
7 QRA88E.
ORAHTD HOTEL DI eUAfSE, AK«
FAMILY HOTEL, 88 ininateB from OiniMa. FlMft-OlMt Hotel,
situated on the Boiilevurd Thiers, ftiU South. Large Garden. SplettUd view gf the
Sea. Large and small ikpartmentB,oom1brtabtyfor&labed. Table d*!!^ Reading, BUUaid,
Smokingt and fiath Booms. Omnibus meets every train.— M. TOUKN AlKEL MHumgtr,
Fktrmerln Proprietor of the HaUl Hdvetique, ifiee.
GRENOBLE.
HOTEL ^OIsTNET.
THIS splendidljHrftiiated First-daM Hiytel, whieh k the laiMt in the
Town* and enjoijn the well-merited favocir of Families and Touxlsta,
haa been enlarged and Newly Fnmished. The Apartments, largo and
small, eombine elegance and oomfort, and every attention has been paid
to make this one of the best Provinoial Hiotels. Pnblie and Private
Drawing-rooms ; English and French Pft]>era. Table d'fldte at 11 and 6.
Private Pinners at anv honr. Excellent Caisine. Kedeiate Ohatgea.
The Onmiboses of the Hotel meet all Trains.
L. TBILLATy Proprietor.
First-Glass Carriages can be had at the Hotel for Exonrsions to the
Grande Ohartrense, Uriage, and all places of interest amongst the Alps
of Daophinl _
URIAGE -LES- BAINS.
JHOTEIL. TLE^rrAXJlELANrr^ mlonnet.
FVxmded in 1846. English Visitrvn will find erery oomfbrt and hutwy
in this First-OlasB Establishment Private Booms for Families. ExoeHeut
Cuisine and Wines. Table d'Hdte, 11 and 6. Oaniages and Horses oan
be had in the Hotel for ExoorsioRS and Promenades.
^ HAMBURG.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
OLD-KENOWNEI) FIBST-CLA8S HOUSE, patronised by the
Imperial and Royal ramilleo. Delightftil situation, overlooking ths Alster. iso
elegantly famished Roonn and Apartments. Bath, Beading and Smoking Rooms. Table
d'H6(e. tiydranUc Lifts. Special arrsngemeiitg mnde at a longer stay.
BRFTTSCHNEIDER aih> BANDLI, ProfHetort,
. HAMBURG.
HOTEL ST. PBTERSBURa.
OID-BKHOWVIO) first-class FAMILY fiGTEU «ltaatsd on the Alitor BShIii.
the most £uhl<mable qoarter of the town. Saperior comfort and aoooBBiBMlatlon.
Table dl!^ and Restaurant k la cartf. PefpUttdent bXeetrie Light tkrouphniL J^te
Safety Lift. TAephoM.
Q. BEtTTEB, Proprietor.
2 vols., royal 4to. 42s. each.
ETCHINGS FROM THE LOIRE AND THE
MOSEL.
A Series of Forty Plates, with Descriptive Letterpress.
Bt EBNEST GEOBGE.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1882. MURKArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 81
HANOVER.
H^TEL ROYAL*
(VmST-OIiASB fiOVBIi.)
SITUATED in the best put of the aty, and opposite the Qeneral RsUwsy SUtion.
Lai|^ and small Apanmenti and SiDgULb Bed-rooms for Gentlemen. Every comfort.
Baths in the Hotel. JtODHRA THCEA ROUS.
OHBIST BBOS.,, Proprietors.
HANOVER.
HOTEL DE RTJ8BIE.
TmS FIRST-GLASS HOTEL is beautifully sttimted oppoeite the
Railway Station and Poet OOtoe, and in the healthiest pert of the aty, and in the
centre of large gardens. The Proprietor anl Proprietress have been for several years in
England and France, and make the comfort of English and American Families their special
study. The prices are very moderate, and tbe seryants ore trained to be dvii and obliging
to visitors, and not to accept fees. C. FREIBERG, Prftprietor.
HANOVER.
CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
VTEW FIBST-OLASS HOTEL, 150 Rooms, with every nodern
Xl comfort. Lifts, Ac. Moderate Cbai|^s.
F. RIECHELMAim, Proprietor.
HARROGATE.
"THE GRANBY."
FIRST-CLASS Fmmily Hotel, facing the Stray. Every aeeomraodatioB
ftft Victors and Tourfats. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning Dree of
chaise. Oood Stabling. Caxrliges on Hire.
v. H. MILmBR, Proprietor.
HAVRE.
HOTEL DANGLETEKKE.
RUE DE PARIS, 124-126.
Jj^XCEEDINGLY well-situated in the best quarter of the
^ ^wn, 16 reootntnended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges.
Apartments for Families; Music and Conversation Saloons. RestavurBnt
k la Carte. Booms from 2 to 5 franco. Breakfast, 2 francs. Dinners
at Table d'H6te, 3 fhmcs. Board and Lodging from 8 to 10 francs
per day. ^ine and Service included. English and German spoken.
OtBJSSm&t Proprietor.
HAVRE.
HOTEL CONTINENTAL.
Qnai des Etats Unift et Bonlevard Fran9ol8 I«^*
Facing the Bm. Opening lat June.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, beautifully situated; newly-built
and furnished, with every modem comfort. Large and small
Apartments. Booms from 3 franos. fable d*U6te. Bestaurant
'' k la Oarte." Saloon. Smokaag Room. Ohargea moderate.
English spolcen. Open all the year.
LSON SOITCHARD; Proprietor.
32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
GBANB HOTEL BE NOKMANDIE.
RUE DB PARIS.
FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, exceedinglj well ntnated in the
centre of the Town* Apertments for Families. Moderate pnoe^
Music and Conyenation Saloons. <* Table d'Hdie." Begtaniant k la
Oarte. English and German spoken.
M. DEBCLOS^ Proprietor.
HEIDELBERG.
NECKAR H6TEL.
Opposite the Bnins of the Castle. Open Kay 1st.
QITTJATED close to the Necker, fifteen minutes from the Castle and
O ten mtarates ttom the BaUway, near the fine old Neck^ Bridge, it is a ntm sad
elegant FlrBi-Claas EBtoblishment, one of the moet beanUftillj-altiuted Hotels In QmrnMUf.
The only Hotel from which a fill view of the Hnlns and the Panorama of the GItj and
Valley can be had. A Large Garden and Terrace close to the House. Baths. TaUe
d'HAie. Reetaorant k la certe. Pension the whole year. Omntbos at the Station. Under
the management of the Proprietor of the old-renowned Eotd de HoUandt,
HOTCIs DE HOUaANDB.
An Oid-EitabUshed Hotel, beantif oily sltnated. Excellent OooUng.
' L. SPITZ, Proprietor.
A HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL. JEUROPE.
j^HEttnest and beat situated HolSl fai Hrfdfllberg ; kept In the Tsry superior and el^puit s^yla
i of a Flret-cbM Family HoteL ThebeantlltaleztenslTeaanlensarBfiirtheeKoii^^ we
^'^I^*^>^ J'^'^^URi^^ fitted up in a superior manner in the Eotd. OmnibM
at the Station. Terms strictly moderate. Railway Tiokets are Issiied hi the HotaL
HASFELX-GUJSB, Propxletor.
"^ HOMBURQ.
TTOTBL BELLE VUE.— First-Caass Hotel, exceedingly weU sitoatod,
J^\^ oppoaite the Park of the Kursaal, and close to the Sprinflpi. Famillv. and Single
(Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most oomfoTtabl^ combining ezodteot aceoaimu>
dation with desttlinets and moderate CbsigM. Best French and Engllah Gboklng. BnaSUent
Wines. Hare aad Ptftridge Shooting ftee.
H. ELLBNBBBQIDR, Proprietor.
. HOMBURQ.
T>OYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— Patroniaed by H.R.H. the Prince of
-^v Wales and several other Royal Personages. Hi^icat Position. Firat-Glass Hotel,
close to the Springs and the Knrstal, with floe Ttew of the TMoras Monotalna. <}utet
Apartmenia. At the early and later part of the Season arrangem^nU are made on very
resMonahto terms. Best Stag and Boebuck Shooting, as weU m Trout FliUng. ftoa lor
the guests of the Hotel.
guaTAVB WBIQAJTD, Proprietor.
HY^RES (VAR).
GRAND HOTEL D'ORIENT.
rpHIS Hotel U situated in the most salnbrions and sheltered psui of
-L Hyirea, and is the Resort of the SliU ol English and French Society. bravlM
Room foU South. BUliarda.
BirOLZSn NEWSPAPERS.
1882.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
83
HEIDELBERG. — ^i^^tel PriDce Oliarleis.
f^\J>^iltJ*^l*A.I>Ll «
. Tsa BakxmiM. This Hotel. patroniMd by Uteir HlghnMMii tha Prinoe of WkIm
and Prlnoa Alfred, ia Um larfMt In the Town, and tliorongbly Il«n6Tated and Newly Farnlshed. Bo«t
Oookenr. Good Wlaei. OhargM Beaaoaabls. Moderate Arraageroenta made by the Week. The Hotel !■
•itnatea la an open Sqoami elf ht minatei' walk from the celebrated Gattle, with the llneit view of the rain*
from ollthe balooniea and nearly all the windows ; two mtnntea' walk to the Neeker Bridge, doie to the
NnmbnrK and WnrahuY BaOway Maticm. Omnibiu and Hotel Porter meet the Tnln. From thl^ Hot«il
there are three dilbrent roede leadlny to the Oaitle. Flntly, footpath over the Snnen Baekol ; ctepe, Ave
minnteis ninny. Seoondly, br the Bnrgweg: eight minntee walk; ehady; the flnoiL Thlnllj, Kooer
SehloMweg ; by carriage ; gentle aeoent. The Proprietor! export Wines to Bnglaad.
••• BaUway TioketioaB be obtained at the Boraan of the Hotel, and tnggaga booked to aUSUtion*.
BOMMBB A BliliMlBR, ProprietOM.
HYERES.
HOTEL DE L'ERMITAGE.
BEAUTIFULLY situated in the Pine Forest, well
sheltered, and commanding magnificent view of the Mediterranean
and the lies of Hy^res. Drawing and Dining Booms, fall South.
BUliards. Full-Bized Lawn Tennis Grounds. English manag'ement
Divine Service in the HoteL
OMNIBUS TO AND FROM ALL TRAINS.
A, PEYROW, Proprietor.
HYERES-LES-PALMIERS.
GRAND HOTEL DES ILES D^OR,
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, the largest in the Town
is situated in the middle of a most beautiful Garden. Lawn Tennii
Qronnd in front of the Hotel. Dining and Drawing Rooms full South
containing a Collection of Pictures by a celebrated French artist.
Smoking Boom, Billiards, and Baths.
Pefuionfram 10 francs a day and uptoards,
B. WBBBB, Proprietor.
34
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEjmSKR.
Bay,
. ILFRACOMBE-
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
{Old EetaUished,)
HAS recently been rcbailt with extra Bed Boom aooommodation and
I^adies' Dnwing hiMtn. Commodionfi Coffee Boom. Handsome CommendaJ Room
uiid Quxl Stock Room. BlllUnia.
Omnibus meets every Train.
TARIFF ON APPLICATIOS, SPiJCIAL TEEMS FOB BOABDIM!.
RICHARD LAKE, Proprietor.
TLFBAOOMBE HOTEL. ** A Model of Sanitary Excellence.*'— The
^ llfraoombe Hotel Is ou the verge of ibe Atlantic, lo Its own plctoresoue Groonds of
Five Acres, with Tennis l^>\u,&c. It contains 250 Rooms. The Charges sre fixed and
inuOerate, and there is a I'able d'Hdte DaiJv. Every taformatiaa will be afTorded b^ tbe
Manager, Ilfracombe, Nortli Devon. Toorist Ticketa to lUraoombe for Two MonUis are
iNfued at all principal Stetions. There Is attached to tbe Hotel one of tbe laxgest Sea Water
Swlroming Baths in England ; also Hot and Gold Sea Water Private Baths.
THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE. — Good PabUc Booms.
MiHlemte Terms. Addiess—THE MAKAQEB.
UNNSBRUCK.
HOTEL DU TYROL.— First-Clasa Hotel, in a beautiful position rear
the SUtionand tbe new Steam Batlae, with magnificent Vfoiwfe of the Yallfy of tbif
Inn and tbe Mountains. Comfbrtable Apartments. Keadlng, Smoking. Bath Booms. Ac,
\v1tbf every modern- oDnvfnlenceL AB^mBemeolr for vuDtwote^ atay. )SMia} t«T^9 ftr
HoJ^utn In Vrkites. Climate et^ce^i^|r heAlib][ ; ^Or bra«lT%. } In 'Wlbtor Kaii;^ w$d nu«-
agi^s warmea. From fiie top of tbe notel a fine blrd's-c-ye view of the Town and VaUe^i,
Hotel etalarrfed. Splsndid Gatden Ittely abqub-ed. CABIi IiAlf PSBBi'
INN8BRU0K.
H A T E IL. I>E IL.»EXJROI»E.
KEPT hf Mr. J. REIN H ART. -A new snd well-fafnisbed Flrst-Claas Hotel, conveii!et.tly
sitnated. Ja«t fadng the splendid VAlley of tbe. Itm, oppoaitD thfc Railway SUtlut.
ICxoellent THble d'Hdte and private Dinners. Arraugemeuta made at very reasonable pHoa-
WcU-fumisbed Apartme=nts. Bngllsb Netvrpapers taken in. Splendid sitoatioo, ^^omT"**"^
^thi " - "-
ioffaf
fVlawi
•artme^ts. ^ . .
^ tbe Moautains. KogUsb spoken.
INTERLAKEN.
J U N GF B A U.
F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor.
''pHIS Establiahmeat) with two Branch Houses, is situited
-*- in the oeutie of the Hdheweg, and enjoys a splendid yiew of the
Jttngfran and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its
tleli«;fatful position, as well as for its comfortable accommodatiuu.
TABLE D'H6TE AT 2 AND 6.30 O'CLOCK.
DINNERS A LA CARTE.
CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR
MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS.
OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS.
INTERLAOKEN.
J. GROSSMANN,
Sculptor in Wood^ and Manufacturer of Swiss
Wood Models and Omaznent&
Carved and Inlaid Furniture Manufactured to any Design,
AT 1NT3BBI.ACKBIV.
HIS WAKKHOUSE li Bitnated between the Belvedere Hotel and Scbwelierbof, where
be keep* the largest and best assortment of the above objecUi to be found In Switzer-
land. He undertakes to forward Goods to Ehigland and etre where.
Correspoodeats In EaglanA Messrs. J. ft R, MoOracxxx, 38, Qoees Street, Oinnon
Street, tJQ^ lioadon. • _
INTERLAKEN.
GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE.
Recently l>ullt; itn a SpleiKiicI Position.
EVERY LUXURY AND COMFORT.
H. KBdU, Proprietor.
INTERLAKEN.
SCHWEIZERHOF-hOTEL SUISSE.
J. & E. STUUBIK A WIBTE, Proiurieton.
THIS First-Class Family Hotel of old repatation is sitnated in the best
pos'tlon of the Kobeweg, near the Knrsaal Oardens. Erery modem oomfort.
^ MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
INTERLAKEN.
GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES
Ib suTToundMl by lame thadyOtfdeoB and Groandi, oanttins lai^ Dtnlog and Praving-
Kdoms. fine Reading, Billiard and SmokbiK-Kooms commanding a fall view of the Qladtfs.
Warm and Cold Baths. Lawn Tennis. Moderate Pricea.
' M AITBBB - gy EOHTB Bf HQgBB, Proprietor.
KARLSRUHE.
HOTEL aERMANIA^
ITUATED a few mlnntea from the Railway Station, on the Public Gardena. Thb
I Fint-Clasa Hotel is famished with every modem comfort. 100 Room^ and Suites of
▲partmentB. Bed ant attendance from 2 Marks. The whole of the honae heated ao as to
ensure comfort to Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arranfements are made. Baths.
Lift. Omnibnsea at the Station. JOSMT IABR8, Proprietor.
S
KISSINGEN.
HOTEL SANNER.
FIEST-CLASS Family Hotel, of good reputation for its
oomfort, cleanliness, and good Cuisine. Beantlfiil sitoation with open
views. Well furnished large and small Apartments. Three Miontee fVom
the Knrhaus. Springs, and Garden. The only Hotel in Kissingea fitted
up with the latest improved Sanitary Water appliances.
CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE.
__^^ SCHMIDT, Proprietor.
KISSINGEN.
ROYAL CURHAUS HOTEL.
ABGEST and best situated First-Olass Hotel in town.
^ 160 Bed Rooms with 30 Sitting Booms, all with a fine
open view. Pension in the early and later part of the Season.
The only Hotel with Mineral Bath in the Honse.
F. JOS. MULLER, Manager.
^ KISSINGEN.
h6tel D'ANGLETERRE.
THIS First'Class Hotel is situated three minutes from the Springs and
the Karicarden. Excellent Table d'Hute. Pension from T Marks eftch P«>n»>r.
Omnibus at every Train.
li. HISMBR, ProprletoT.
1
;Seoond Edition, with Portndt and Uinstrationa. a volt. Svo. ai«.
THIS LIFE AND TIMES OF TITIAN. With some
Account of his Family, chiefly from new and unpublished Beoordi.
By J. A. Cbowb and G. B. Oavalcasbllb.
**H« anoh gap has exidted in the hietorj of art as that which is filled bf the pmfm
volames, Krerything on the subject is novr superseded. We cannot make an abstract cf
nine hundred pages; soflloe it to repeat that the book is by far the most loiportant ooLin-
boMoB made in our Unie to the bibtory of art."— ^<Aenattm.
JOHN MURRAY^ ALBliiMARLE STREET.
1882. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVESTISER. 37
KILLARNEY. "
Bjf Her Mott QrcusUna Mqgesty't Special FermiMtUm,
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
PAtroDlfed by H.B.H. THE PRINCE OP WALES; by H.R.H. PRINOS JiKtBUSL
aod by tlio Royal Funillea of Fnnoe and fieigimn, &e.
q^IS HOTEL 19 sitQBt^d on tbe Lower Uk«, dose to the water*8 edge, within
-L ben minntes' drire of the Railway Station, and a short diatance from the ftr^fluned Gap of
Dnnloe. It Is lighted with gas made on the premtaeB ; and la the Lax^est Hotel in the
district. A magnifioent OofTee-room, a public Prawlng-room fuj Ladlea and Famillea
BlllUrd and Smoking-rooms, and sereral snitea of Private Apartments fiudncr the Lake'
havo been recently added^ . '
TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON.
Can, Carriages, Boats, Ponies, and Guides at fixed inoderate charges.
Drivers, Boatmen, and Qnidea are paid l^ the Proprietor, and are not allowed to soUeft
giatoitlea. The Hotxl OMHistcs and Porters attend the Trains.
THERE 13 A POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE.
Boarding Terms from Oetolwr to June, inelnsiTe.
It is neoasary to inform Tonrlsts that the Railway Company. Proprietors of the Railway
Hotol in the Town, send upon the platform, oi TonUrtfar their ffotd, the Porters. Car-dri vers.
Boatmen, and Guides In their employment, and exdnde the servanto of the Hotels on the
Lake, who will, however, be found in waiting at the Station-door.
JOHN 0>IiEAHY, Proprietor.
LAUSANNE -OUCHY.
HOTEL BEAU EIVAGE.
DiBBOTOR, A. MARTIN-BUPENAOHT.
T^HIS Bplendid Establifiluuent, coaustnioted on a gnuod soale,
is sitiiated on one of the most beautifiil spots on the shore
of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an English Park and
Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English
Ohoroh.
TVINTER 3PE1VSIOJV
FBOM OCTOBER UNTIL MABOff, AT VEBT MODJEBATM
PBICES,
Constant communication with the City and Railway Station
by Omnibus.
Botha, Telegraph, and Fast OffieB tn the Hoid.
3g MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
' LAUSANNE.
h6t53L gibbon.
FIB8T-CLABS Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and most
highly recommended. Splendid Tlew of the Lake. Large Tfrrace and Garden.
Pension daring Winter. SIITES-BOGHATf Proprietor.
"" LAUSANNE.
h6tel pension victoria.
BEAUTIFUL sitnation, large garden. Most excellent house
and reasonahle terms. LS. DBBPIfAND, Proprietor.
A COMPANION TO BRADSHAW.
Handbook for England and
Wales.
DeacrlblDg the History and Objects of
Intere»t of each Lo<!aMty, as well as the
Means of Access, Hotels, Lodgings, &c.
Alphabetically arranged for the use of
Travellers. With an Outline Map. Post
8V0. 101.
" An admirably arranged epitome of
useful Information, giving not merely all
necessary details of hotels, trade, &&, but a
condensed hUtory of remarkable places in
LAUSANNE.
GAAHD HOTEL BE EldHEXOET.
FINEST and best eitnated quiet FtrmrOMSK
Hotel of Ijaosanne. Amonfest hifip
gardens. In an exceedingly beantifnl aiKl
heat thy position. Hitihly recommended.
Moderate Charges. Pension.
BTFTEB-'WOLBOI.D.
LEAMINGTON.
The Clarendon Family and
Private Hotel.
condensed hUtory of remarkable places in oITUATBD In tha highest part of tbe
the neighbonrbood of each town, and sug- u Town. Highly recommended by tbe
gestive skeleton tours."— r/ie World. | best English and American FanfUea, for
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. | Comfort and Moderate C3iaigm. Oarrlagea.
LISBON.
BRAGANZA HOTEL.
THIS First-GIaBB well-known Family Hotel, lately reaetated hy the
Royal House of Braganss, and fitted up by the nsw Proprietor, Vioros C. Sabsbtti.
highly recommapdabto for its large, aiiy, and oomforUble Apartments, commanding the
most extensive and picturesque views ot tbe River Tagus, as well as of Lislxm. Superior
Cuisine, and carefully* selected Wines, Under the samo Manaeemeiit, within M ^ors*
drive, V1CT0R»8 Hai'EL. CINTRA.
RAMBLES AMONG THE HILLS IN THE PEAK
of DERBYSHIRE and the SOUTH DOWNS.
By LOUIB J. JENNINGS. Anthor of "Field Paths and Green Lnnee."
With IJlnstfationB. Poet 8vo. 12«.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
Crown 8vo., cloth, U.
THE COFFIC MORNING SERVICE FOR THE
LORD'S DAY.
Translated into Enrtish by JOHN, MARQUESS OF BUTE, K.T. With the
Original Coptic of those parts said aloud.
London: J. MASTERS Ac CO., 78, New Bond Street.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR PORTUGAL:
L18BOK, Oporto, Giutba, liAFBA, &c. Map and Ran. Post 8vo. Iti^
JOHN MURRAY, ALBBMARLB 8TRKBT.
1882. MgftRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTtSSR. :^9
LAKS MAGtaiOBE I 0011 RMO liAKB KCAOaiOBB
(Switzerland) LmXJKJPA ITI^ KJ (Switzerland)
Beginning of the St. Goihanl Rallwaj anfl Londing Stage. Best intermediate S:at'on on
, ibe Ij^iaiAa Lakes.
GRAND HOTEL LOCARNO.
Magnificent £etoNl«bmM)t. ope of Um Qneat in SirHseitend. Two HttAdxed Room*.
Pension fhrni U franca. Including Room. Kngllsli Church. Baths. Billards. La^^iceOaiden.
^ Q. SETYOHaB ft Oo.
LOCH LOMOND. '
INVERSNAID HOTEL.
THE LANDING PLACE FOR LOCH KATBINS; THE TROSACHS, ABERFOYLE, kc.
Parties Bo(rrded by the Week or Month,
ROBT. BIiAIR, Proprietor.
LONDON.
LETTS.
ALABOE Collection of Views of this Neighbourhood, from
1«. each ; also of Yiewft of other parts of the United Kingdom,
Fmnce, ItiUy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Egypt, Palestine,
India, United States, English Cathedrals, Abbeys and Castles, on approval,
to double amount of ea^ sent. Lists on receipt of stamped adaresscd
enTekme.to
LETTS, SON, & CO., LIMITED,
72, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, IiOBTPON, HC.
TRAVELLERS^RECyJISra^
MAPS OF EVERY COUNTRY OR PART OF THE WORLD.
Knapsaoks and Bags, Passports and Visas, Colour Boxes*
Drawing: Blocks, Guide Books, and Time Tables,
JSevir Books of Bofkds, describing their Character.
Send 8iamp/or Touriri Ckitalogue.
LETTS, LIMITED, LONDON BEIDGB, S.E.
Dl N N EFO R D' S ^« Addtiy^Snthe stomach.
I 1^ 1^ I^ r W n L/ O p^ Heartbora and Haadaehe.
M. ^^^ 4^ . -. ^1^ . . For iiwxi and Indignation.
A H N F S I A 8^f««t Aprient f r Dellrate
n V^ I X L. W I n* Con»Ututt..ns, Ladi< s. aildren. and Infant?.
BINKEFORD A CO., 180, Kew Bond Street, London.
Sold by Ckemittt throughoni tke Woild,
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK -LONDON AS IT IS.
Maps and Plans. 16mo. 3$. 6(i.
40
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADV£BTIS£R.
M«T,
LONDON.
THE
COIMERCIAL BANK OF ALEXANDRIA, LIMITED.
CAPITAL, £480,000, in Shares of £6 each.
Paid-up £3 per Share, say £d4Q,000.
BJBSEBVS FUND, £25,000.
^ixtttotn.
Thomas S. BicirAU>aoir, Jbq., Chairmam,
£infANusL A. Bkiaobi; Etq. | Jomi QovnAHiTtsK Chobbici. Eeq.
Jaoob Briort, £sq^ M.P. I Jo6Bph Mbuor, Esq.
Joav Gov, Esq. I OoHSTAKTtirB Gbobgio Zbbyudachx, Esq.
AudUon—W, W. Dbloittb, Esq.. and Jorv Elts, E^q.
HEAD OFFICB-2, HOORGATE 8'tBEET. LONDON, E.C.
William Robbbt La Tbamoui; Mafig^w. Jqhk Bbdokb^ 8mniar$.
AL^AUDBXA aVFlGB.«.PcK» Bas«i» Mfmci§m
ISankmi.
LONDON AND COUNTY BANK.
BANK OP ENGLAND.
Letters of Credit granted on Alexandria, and payments mad« In Oilro and Saes.
Bills for oollectloD encashed la any part of Egypt, snd the porcfaase and tale of Kgyp^u
and ail kinds of SecariUes tuideruken.
Interest allowed at the rats of 6 per cent per annum on money deposited for not Ir»s
than twelve months.
LONDON.
THE LONDON AND WESTMINSTEB BANK, Limited,
isBQfls Oroolar Notet of £10, £25, and £50 eieh, for th9 nie of TyaTellers
payable in the principal Towns on the Contment of Europe, also in Asia, Africa,
and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when caaiked
no charge is made for commisBion. Lettera of Credit are also granted on the same
places. They may be obtained at the Citj Office m Lothbury, or at any of the
Branches, yix.:—
Westminster Branch ,
Bloomdniry «
Soothwark ^
Eastern „
May, 1882.
l,St James's Sqoare.
214, Hlg^ Holbora.
e, High St. Borough.
ISorHIgh St.. White-
chapel.
Vaiylshone Branch
Temple Bar »
Lambeth
4, StntfndFlace.
Oxlbrd Street.
217, Strand.
89li»l,Westmhwt«f
Bridge Koftd.
South KcnstngUiB Branch, 192, Bramptoa lU.
GOLD
MBAALy
PARIS,
JOSEPH GILLOTTS
STEEL PENS.
Sold by aU dtalert ikrffugiumt tJu World.
188S. UURRAra HANDBOOK ADVEBTISER. 41
LONDON.
THE!
GRAND HOTEL,
TBAFALGAR SQUABE,
LONDON.
This Magnificent Hotel accuses the Finest Site in the
CENTRE OF THE METROPOLIS,
And combines the Elegance and Liiznry of the
most Important and attractive Hotels In Xorope and
America, with the Repose and Domestic Comfort
which are essentially Sngllsh.
THE EBGKNT EXTENSIONS OF THE BUILDING
HAYB ADDED TO
THE GRAND HOTEL
UPWARDS OF A HUNDRED BED AND
SITTING ROOMS.
For Apartments,, address THE SECBETABY.
One qftki SStrACi osid mm qf Me Qm/tn-tt ^ London,
THE
HGIBORN RESTAURANT,
218, HIGH. HOLBORN.
THE FAMOUS TABLK D*bOtB DINKKR, wrvtd at sepcmto Tabtes, acooiDpaiiled
with Selection of UiglMlBflB Mode byeoaxpleU OidMilrt. 5l30 to 8.30 every Kveniog, 3«. ad
43
HDBBArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
M«y.
IfONOpN.i
TOURISTS AND TMVELLERS.
: ^ La4ie8 Tisitinl; the' ^6a«ide, EiQkiD|r, Drivings
or ^thecwise etyoied to ltd ecoiclmigi TaQ^Aa^r
''' the Sun, or heated particles of diiBt, will find
.^S^
ftOWLAKD'S KALYDOR
Most cooline findlref^reBhiiiff to the (bob, hands,
knd. irms ; It eradicates all Sunburn, Freckles,
Tan, Stings of Insects, Ac.
Sizes, is. 6d. and 8$, 6d. per Bottle.
ROWLAND'S ODONTO
lias b(ie|i proted, by iti un|MiTftlle|ed Buooeas
of £0 y^i^t to be the best, purest, and most
fraerant Dentifrice for procuring White and Soi^nd Teeth, Healthy Qum?,
aoa Fsagral^t BvdaUi, being pmotlj free from all deleterious and acid
compounds, which give a temporary whiteness to the Teeth, but ultimately
ruin the enamel.
Sold by Chemists and JPerfumers,
• '■ - ■ - - . - ' ■ ■
FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRtCES.
Travellebs may save •xpenie and trouble by porchaaing Foreign Books in
England at the same Priees at which they are pabliahed in Qermany or Fnnce.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE
have pablished the following CATALOG UES of their Stock:—
L OT.Aa^TOAT, OATALOGUiS. . ;iL NA^P^BAL SGISKCE
8. TKBO^OaiOAZi OATA-j ' CAVALOGUB. ^Biiiemttics,
LOC^TJS. ^ > • - . i Astrenomy, Phyri«, Ch^mirtry,
8. FRENCH OATALOGUB. Technology.
^ «S55^.i^^^T^^SS?mr.. 12. toSDIOAL OATALOGXTE.
?: Sd^I^^^aSI^^^S^' 13. SCHaOL^CATALOGnE. ^
8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. mentaiy Books, Maps, &c
9. ART-CATALGGTTE. Art,Archi- 1*. FOREIGN BOOS CIRCT7-
tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. LARS. New Books, and Neir
10. NATURAL HISTORY . Purchases.
(XifriisOQxn. , zojiW Bo. 16. BoisAffon(y^^ondfB^*
tany, Geology, dieu^tiy, Mathe* LABS. Kew Bodks tu4 Vitptrnx
^ - uHitics, Im. - ^ |. ; Purchases.' ^* •
ANT GATALOQUS SENT POST^JTBES FOB ONf STAMP.
WILIiIAMB 1^ KORGATB* Ilni>orter8 of Foreifi:n Books.
li, HsnubttiStbhbt, CovxHT Qaxdbn, London, and
20, SoDTH Pnbdbrick Sfjubbt, Edutbubod.
1882. MUBPAY'S HANDBOOK APVBRTISER. 43*
NEW AND 0H010E BOOKS-
More than One Sundred and Fifty Thcmsand Volumes of the Bett Books of
the Pad and Present Seasons are tn Cireulation ai
MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY.
The Oolleolioxi exoeods One Million Volumes, comprising all the Best
Modem WorkB of every ahade of opinion on all aubjects of general inteo-est
Fresh Copies are added as the demand increases ; and an ample supply
is provided of all the Beat Fortboomiag Works as they appenr.
SUBSGRIPTION, ONS OUINJEA PKR ANNUM
AND UPWARDS, according to the Number of Volames reqnlred.
LOKDON BOOK SOCIETY SUBSCRIPTION, TWO amNBAS
FSS AHSUM. For the Free DoUvery of Books in oTory port of Lonilou.
Tltoosands of FamlUefl In I^ndon and the Sabnrbs already mib«cribe to ibis Department of
the LlbroT}', and obUiin a constant tvuwnitm of the Bent Books of |h« 8es8oit.
BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS.
Prospectuses postage free on application.
MUDIE'S. SELEOT~LIBBABY (Limited),
80 to 34, New Oxford Street, London.
CITY OFFICE— 2,. KINa STREET, CHEAPSIDE*
TO conniiEnTAL tbatellers.
DORRBLL AND SON'S PASSPORT AGENCY,
15, OHARING CROSS, 8.W.
A PASSPORT ia a ready means of identification, and although it
may not be asked for In some eoontris, tn others tt ts absolutely fiecetsary, uM tbe %shi of
It may cause great inooovenience.
BBinsH SUBJBOTS vlsitiDg the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtalnhag their
PasfpoTts through tbe tibov Agency. No i>enonal atteodaooe i» required, and country
residents may have thctr Pttasoorts forwarded through the post A Form of Application
forwarded by Poet. Pa»8port» Mounted and enclosed iu Cases with the name of the bearer
impressed in gold on the outside; thus sffording security against injury or loss, and pre-
venting delHy In tbe fluent examirtatlon uf the Passport when travelliHg.
Fee, Obtaining PaitpoH, Is. 9d. ; PiMU, U. eac^. Catu, Is. 6d. (o 6#. taek.
HANDBOOK TO THE ENVIEONS OF LONDON.—
An AcoouDt, from personal visits, of every Town and Village within
a drole of twenty miles round the Metropolis, and the more important
places lying four or five milen beyond that bomidaxy. Alpbabetioally
anaaged. By Jaiosi Thobhc, F.S.A» With Index oC Kamea. 2 vols.
Crown 8vo. 21«.
This Work comprises the whole of Middlesex, part of Surrey, Kent,
Essex, and Herts, and smaller portions of Berks and Bucks.
** Such a work as Mr. Thome's Handbook was called for. The • call ' has been adminaUy
respondsd to. Mr. 'fliinie*! book. aUbovgh » i^Ork of reftrenoe and a gafc)^ Is fbll ef
pUasant gossip. We find Mr. Tborae's book an ezotllent performance of a work which
was required.'' — The Time$.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
44 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
"" LONDON.
Gold Kedal, Paris* 187a
Kedals, Sydney, 1880; Melbouxne, 1881.
FRY'S COCOA
EXTRACT
GUARANTEED PERFECTLY PURE COCOA
ONLY, deprived of the Superfluous Oil.
" Striotly pure."— W. W. Siosdabt, Oag and OortiUy Analgil, BrUti.
"Pure Cocoa."— Cbabus A. Outmov, AnalyH for DMi*.
Try also FRY'S CARACAS COCOA,
«A DELICIOUS PEEPABATION."
15 PSIZE MEDALB awarded to J. S. FBT & SONS.
LUCERNE.
8GSWEIZEBH0F. LUZEfiNERHOF.
First-Olciss Botels.
HAUSER BROTHBES, Pkopribtobs.
BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY.
Witli splendid View of the Celebrated Panorama of the
LAKE AUD MOUNTAINS.
1883. MUBRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTOEB. 4S
LUCERNE.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
BXGXSSEB BROTHERS and 0^., Proprietors.
rriHlS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most
-^ oomfartable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lid^, with the
finest Yiowfl. Every attention paid to Toorlata.
A LIFT FOB THIS USB OF VISITORS.
LYNTON (NORTH DEVON).
THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL.
THIS fevonrite and ])eantifully eitnate Pirst-Class Hotel is
built OD one of the finest sites In the neighbourhood, tnd largely patronised by the
best Families. It has been considanrbly enlarged, remoddled, and improved ; and combines,
with Moderate Cbargesi all necessary means for the sccommodation and comftnt of Families
and Tuurlsts. The splendid Table d'UAte and OoflTee Boom, Beading Booms, Ladies'
Drawing Boom, and several Private Sitting Booms, replete with eveiy comfbrt, range in a
long iront» overlooldng the 8^, and looking into the extensive Private Grounds of the
Hotel. It is most oonveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the blares of Interest in
the district. Handsomely-fltted 3ilUatd Boom ooen during the Seaaon for Besidents hi the
Hotel only.
Pott'Bor$es and Otrrio^et .* aUo tkt verjf Jfut kind qf Modem SUMing,
JOHN CBOOK, Pbopbietob.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'DNIVERS.
FAOmO PSBBAOHE STATION.
FIR8T-0LA88 FAMILY HOTEL.
FULL SOUTH,
GROUND FLOOR APARTMBNTS.
tiaUiBay TichtU Offioe.
MADRID.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX.
Tax oivitY FBSzroa hotbi. ik madbtd.
FIB8T-0LA8S H^tel, Boardiog-Honae, in the finestpart of the Pnerta
del Sol, with msgnlficent views and fvU ioutkem <up«et. Tsble d'H6te. Private
service. Lai^^ and small apartments. Bath. Beading-room, with Piano. Foreign News^
papers. Oreat comfort and cleanliness. French Cfuieine. Omnibus at Bailway Stations.
Interpreters.
Grand Hdtal de Lo&dres. Family Hotel. Annex of the mta de to Palx, under
the same management. Moderate Prices.
T. OAFDBVDQLUS ^ Co.,
Proprieton qfbotk Bbute$,
4« MiriUUT'S BANDBOOK ADVBS'nffiR. Hay,
MARIENBAD (BOHEMIA).
HOTEL KlilNGfiR.
Proprietor, J. 2>. HAZiBMAYXt.
FIBST and LABQEST HOTEL in thie Watering Place.
Preferred on account of ito charming situation at Uie comer of the Pro-
menade and I^rk, and haa a beautiful View. Newly and elegantly fhrnisbed with
every comfort and in noble atyle, oontahiing, with the D^peadaooe, ^0 Kooma,
Saloons, &c. English spoken in the Hotel.
Carriages in the Hold, Ommbm to the BaUw»if StaJ&om.
MAYENCE.
Fint-OUue EoteU.
HOTEL DU BHIN.
HOTEL D£ HOLLANDE.
HOTEL D'AKGLETEBBE.
, : But Stotmd-CUisa. "Batd.
HOTEL DE LA CABFE.
MENtONE. (Alpei lltfaritline&)
HOTEL DES ANGLAIS.
THIS well-known Establishment has been newly improred,
and oombineB every modem oomfort with moderate and fixed prioes.
Biluated in the East Bay, near the fayonrite reeidence of Her Majesty
Queeu Victoria.
Messrs. GLEIOIGT BROTHERS.
I" I Ill I II I , III ■ ■ i' , I II
MENTONE.
HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
THIS weU-lmawn E8TABU8HMElf T is beantifolly situated in the
best qiurter of tU Town, with a Taat Oanlcn, and affords every £nf Ush oomfoit.
WmOkVa "HAMSBOOK ADVEKTXa&
MfiNTONE.
GRMP: itOTE h WESraiJf STER.
Central 7irst-01a8S Bftarl^liBliinent
BUILT and fiiraislied with taate and according to the latesi
improyeineata. In a Southern aspect overlooking the Sea, and .|
beantffol Garden giving access to the public "Pxomenade du Midi'
JD improvements. In a Southern aspect overlooking the Sea, and .|
beantffol Garden giving access to the public "Pxomenade du Midi'
Fine Public Saloon and Reading Room. . Baiiaxd and Smoking Booms.
Patronised especially by English. Moderate Prices.
SNGLISH AND SEVERAL FOREIGN IiANGUAGES SPOKEN.
OMNpUS aX> AND TBOU THX SAILWAT STATION.
' METZ.
GfRAm HOTEL BE L'EtTKOPB.
I^HE largest and most beaixiiAil Hotel in Lcntaine^ pafaxMlsed by the
- moet Aristocratic Fajuillea. Tbla splendid Establisbmciii it recommended lor iti
comfort and Moderate Charged. EngllBh KewBpapers.
MILAN.
(JRAND HOTEL DE MILAN.
2W Bdoiitt aiit Saloons, wiUi eyery oomfort and requirementfi
of t^e preaent day, ,
PenaiQH i& tbe Winter Mouths.
%♦ THE" ONLY' HOUSbJ AT MILAN WHICH HAS A HYDRAUllC LIFT.
J, SPA'^Z-WUBMS.
MILAN.
GBAITD HOTEL, GOlTriNENTAL.
7, VIA MANZONL
"PIRST-CLASS HOTEL, conteining 200 Eoomg, and
-^ Salons. Tlie naat^t to the Cathedc»U Post OiSoe, and Theatre de
la Scala. Full South asj)ect.
fildjpauliti iiift, iwith Bafetf^ ApparatUA.
MARlNIy LEGNANl * CO.
MILAN..
h0T£L BISCIONJE.
HIGHLY recommended Hotel and Pension, warmed and con-
▼tnleiitly Bifcnsted* ovttiookliig itib Sqiukre and CStthedral. 'Flnurate Restauiuot.
Table dBfte. Pia&Ob TtleplloiM.- Omntbus to and from all Tnim. Fixed ihoderate
prices. BoKBELU>, Propr. The same Proprietor as Hotel Aigle Nolt and PMi« at Bologna.
A
T
MILAN.
HOTEL DE LA GRAKDE DRmfiHE
E REiOHMANN.
Proprietor, J. IiBOKANZ.
>HB Houge is Bitvated in the centre of the Town, near the Cathedral
and all other Places of interest. Good Tahle d'Hftte. X%a Times^ &c.
Several Languages spoken. The House is only two Storeys high. Five
minutes' walk from the English Church.
Omnibus at the Station to meet all Trains.
MOFFAT HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND
SANATORIUM, DUMFRIESSHIRE, N.B.
ReHdent Phyricicm, Dr. B. THOMSON FORBES.
rB EsUbliihineDt, which occupies a beauUAil sitaatioo on tlie wesleni slope tt the
beautuvilly wooded OaUowhill, and wttbia a sbmt distanoe of the ftf-tamod *• Molfiit
Well," to replete with every oomfwrt for \isitora aad psttenti. The paUlc rDons, balls, and
corridors are universally noognized as unsurpassed by any simiUr Establishment, and tbe
baths an of tlK most varied and perfect conacnieliott. Moflat has long been a favourite
resort for ttioee Seeking health and pleasure, and fci the EsCablislment, here it tbe addi-
tional attraction of good society and varied amusements. For foil particnlars apply to
m MAHABM.
MULHOUSE (ALSACE).
HOTEL CENTRAL.
(Formerly HdTEIi BOMANN.)
TN Town the only First-Class Establishment for Merohants
and Families. This Houae has been entirely redecorated. Bathe,
Grand Oafd, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. The Hdtel is in Telephonic
oonneotion witk the Merchanta' Offioee in Town and Neiglibeet^iood.
Mttlhottse is tiie best xeating»-p)aoe between France, Belgiusk, fioUand,
North Germany, and Switzerland.
JS. GRAEUB, Proprtdor.
MUNICH.
WIMMER & CO.,
GAt^IiBftT OV FIKB A B T S,
S, BBISNNEB 8TBBBT,
Invite the Nobility and Gentiy to visit their Oallsrt or Fmc Axt% con«alniaf m
Extensive Collection of
MODERN PAINTINGS
l>y the beet Munich Aittato.
PAINTIKaS OlX POBCELAIK A2n> OK GLASS.
Oonrespondente in England, Messrs. J. k B. M^Ckackiv, 38, Queen Street, Oannoa 8li«^
'^ Tidon, " ■ "' ' " " ~ . ~-
iway,:
^^ I^kdon. Oorreapondents In the United Slates, Meetrs. AaxAwn Baoa * Ob^.
1882.
MaRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVKKTISEF.
MUNICH.
BAVARIAN HOTKI,. HOTJEL DE BAVIERF
->SCAR SEIF, Proprietor. Excellent First-lass Hotel. Fin^tl^adh^Z^tsl^Uon
-' on «b« FK>m«xMde P1»U, new the Rpjai TbMtm and OnIIariM. R»«^ »»^I-l^i^V.^ « V^
0
^ NAPLES.
HOTEL DE ROME.
' I'lRSt-RATE HOTEL.
Inooxnparabids^uaiionftcing the Sea and
overlooking the Bay and Monnt Vesaylua.
Gr€€U Bath £$UMukment.
A. BRUSCHETTI. Havaobb.
NICE-CCARABACEU.
JULLIEN'S HOTEL.
Higrmy Becommend^d.
CHARGES VEBY MODEBATE,
JULLIEN, Proprietor.
NeuCHATEL.
HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, magnificently situated on
the border of the Lake, commanding splendid
views of the Panorama of the Alps.
MODERATE CHARGES.
A^.^.-Beeides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Train is newly organised
between Neuchatel and Paris, and vice verad.
'^ NICE.
HOTEL DE FRANCE— Quai Massfoa.
M""® S. ZUMDEL, Proprietress.
p-^IRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL of universal reputation
*- commanding a fine View of the Sea, and in best central position'
close to the Publio Garden and the Promenade. House Pataonised
especially by English and American Families.
Table d*H6te, having the Reputation of being the best in Nice, Cbargee
very moderote.
NICE.
SOGI£t£ ARONTHE DE LA
GRANDE BRETAGRE.
HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAQNE.
Best Fositlozi of the Town, flEtoing the Public Qardens, where
Conoerts are given Daily, and overlooking the
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS AND THE SEA.
SXew Beading and Smoking Booms. South.
COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL
(late Chauvain'sX
JS^Zoiye^, Beslared^ and entirely Befwmiehed by the
New Manager,
Beading, Ladies' Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Booms.
SPLENDID GALLERIS PROMBNOIR.
FOUR LIFTS.
HOTEL DE L'ELYSEE,
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS.
Admirably Sitwit9d in a Vast Oarden,
Splendid View of the Promenade and the Sea-
Beading, Ladies* Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms.
I\itt South, JLrrangements made for a Protracted
N.B.— These three well-known First-Class EstabUshments
sre sitnatod fall Sonlh, and heated hy " Oalorif^res." fiat^
Booms on every Floor. Bzoellent Ouimne. Choioo IVinas.
Uodecate Ohsrges.
J. LAYITi Directenr-ainait
1882.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
51
NUREMBERG.
HdTEI. BE BAYliiRE.
Pbopbietbbss, Mb0. O. P. ATJINGEB.
THIS Flrst*Cla88 Hotel is sitaafed in tlie middle of the Town, close to the
River. It is higlily patronized by Englisli and American Families. Every
comfort and Moderate Charges. Hot and Oold Baths in the Hotel.
Omnilnu$8 to and from $euik Train. Carriagei in the SoUl,
ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE HELD EVERY SUNDAY IN THE HOTEL.
ODESSA..
HOTEL EUROPA.
OPPOSITE the Bourse, oommanding a view on the Sea,
on the Promenade, on the Sea Shores. Beantifal Rooms. Baths
in the House. Omnibus on the arrival of all Trains. Bestanrent It, la
Oarte. German, French, English, and Bussian spoken.
GOOD ATTENDANCE. PRICES MODERATE.
F. H. KOHL (a Swiss) Proprietor.
NICE.
HOTEL DES PRINCES.
PIR8T-CLASS Family Hotel.
^ BiioatedonthaQnatihiMidt. Sheltered
dtuatlon, with a nne view of the Sea.
Charges Modente. J. B. I&NARB.
08TEND.
Murray's Handbook for
Holland and Belgium.
Map and Plans. Post 8to. $8.
JOHN MU&RA.Y, Albemarle Street
OSTENP.
MERTIAN'S
yitsr-oLAM
FAMILY HOTEL AND
PENSION.
Olose to the Kursaal.
OSTEND.
GRAND HOTEL MARION.
PIBST-CLASS HOTEL, open
-^ all the year. Mach frequented by
English.
JOHN MARION Ae 00.
OXFORD.
IlA.lVI>OLFH HOTEL.
TSS ONLY MODEBN BOTEL. FIRST^OLASS.
Every Comfort Close to the Colleges. Prices Moderate.
MISS I>AKSOK, Manageress,
FIELD PATHS AND QBEEN LANES.
Being Conntiy WaUts, ehieflj in Surrey abd Sussex. Third Edition,
with niustrations from Sketches made on the Spot
By LOUIS J. JENNINGS. Post 8vo. 10a W.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
52 HURRAr'S HANDBOOK ADVKRTISKR. May,
.OXFORD.
rriHE CLARENDON HOTEL. (PiitMntaed by H.lt.H. The Prinoe of Wales. HJLH.
X Prince Leopold Tbetr Imperial M«JeBUQ» the Bmperor and ISmpttn of Biaill. the
Piinceea ftederick Charles oTPniMia, and Prinoe Lonla Laden Ekmaparfie.) £itoate in the
mobt oentral part of theCitT, and near to the principal Colleges, tnd ptacee of tnterot to
viiiitorB. Families and Qentlemcn wiU find thU Hotel replete with every oomfiat. Spvions
Coffee and HiUiard Rooms. Prtvate Sitting and Bed rooms en sntte. Ladles* Coffee Room.
Quides always in ait^ndance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Puit HersM.
Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Honses. — ^JQHK F. ATTwOOB, Proprietor.
HOTEL "mIRABEAU,
S9 Rixe de la Pa,ix.
Patronised by the Boyal Families of several Courts of Europe.
BEAUTIFULLY situated between the Place Vendome and
the Now OpeTt, thk Hotel poesessel tbe prettiest Court- Yard in
Paris. Table d'Hote at separate Tabled. All languages spokeo. Lift
to each Floor. Arrsugemeotii made during the >iV^tor.
PETIT (Unole and Nephew), Proprietors.
PARIS.
h6tel des deux monp;bs
ET I^ANaLETERKB.
22, AVENUE DE L'OPERA.
Founded in 165^, formerly 8, Bw dPArUin.
2Er. LSaXTSir, Proprietor.
Splendid Situation between the Tuileriee and ttie New Grand Opera.
The moat comfortable Paxnily Hotel, being built ifpiecially.
Patronized by the English Aristocraoy.
EXCELLENT TABLE D'H6TB.
READINB, SMOKiNe, AND BILLIARD ROOMS; BATHS.
LIFT. MODERATE CHARGES.
SPECIAL ASBANOFMENTS MADE.
PARIS
OPTICAL INSTRUHSNTS.
THE EstabliBbment of the Ute celebrated Civn £i>glneer, CHRVAU.I£R« 18, PUce dn
Pont Nenf ( Komided in lYiO). Sole Socoe^sor DUCKAT CHEVALUER, MaQurMUner
or Mterodcopes, of improved double Opera O lasses, Military TrleeGopet, TeleMopea of all
Icinds, Matbematical, ^feteorologlcal InetrnmeQCa for Natural PbUtMopbf, tbe Navy |kc^
Author of tbe «• Oonaenratear de U viie •• de " I'Esaal sur Tart del'ingtfnfeor." kc iDmtor
of the Jomellea centrtee Ctmproved Open Glasses). Patented Fboto Field Glaaa.
1882.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
53
FIRST -OIiASS HOTEL.
RUE DE RIVOLI.
5* MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. M»y,
PARIS.
TOBACCO IN PARIS.
W. D. & H. O. WILLS'
BEST BIRD'S-ETE TOBACCO
Is now (by the courtesy of the French OoTemment) sold at the
Bureau of the EitoiE, Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines,
Paris, at the rate of
12 Francs the Found, in 8 oz. and 2 oz. Faokets.
WllalaS' "BEST BIRD'S-KTK,"
WllalaS^ "THREE CASTIaES,"
AND
WllalaS' "WESTWARD-HO,"
SMOKING MIXTURE^
(All specially prepared for export) may be obtained in
Brussels, St.. Petersburg, Berlin, Stockholm, Oothenburg, in
most towns in Switzerland, and in the principal oitias of the
German Empire.
Putchaaers ahtmld beware of tmtaHons, and «ee that every
pacJcei hears the name of
W, D. & H. O. WILLS.
BBIBTOL ft LONDON.
1882.
MU&RAT'S HANDBOOK ADy£RTIS£R.
55
PAU.
P A U.
AWINTEB RESOBT, renowned for the numerous ist^s
which a residence has effected, particularly in cases of AfEbctloo» of
the Chest, Heart, Larynx, and Throat.
Pau possesses a mild and salubrions climate, lyins in the midst vt
scenery of great grandeur ; on three days in each week Fox-hunting auci
Polo Matches take place, and during the wfaiter and spring there are
Uoree Kaces twice every month.
In addition to these attractions, there are Good Clubs, a Theatre, Opera,
two Casinos, Balls, Pigeon Shootiog Matches, Cricket Matches, Skating
Rinks, Ac, Ac.
FIBST-OLASS HOTEL AND GOOD BOARDING SttUSXB.
Villas, HouBeSi a^d Fumislied Apartattoitfl to Let,
AT VARIOUS PRICM8.
All particulars sent gratuitously, address Mr. FBKDBBIC DANIEL,
Directew GAxmt de V Union SyndiciiUf 7, Mue <ka Cordeliers^ Pau,
PENZANCE.
QUEEN'S HOTEL.. (0» *« mph«mde,)
Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland; /
THIS ipagniflcent Botal bus a fruouge of over ITu teei, aii ttie ttoouM of which overlook
the Set. U ia the only Hotel that oommands a fUU and aninternipted view of Moont't
Bay. Apartmeats m tuiU, Penianoe sunds unrivaUed for ihe ▼arieiy and qvlet beMty
of Ito aocoenr, whilat Uie mitdncMi of its climate la admirably adapted to UiTaUds. LaaU^
Coffm ofMl Dtatmmg Rovrnt. Bidiard Room, Bat a»d CaUL Ha'kt. Table d'H^ at
7 ^dook. An Omnlbos meets every Train. I'oeting in all ito Branches. Yachts, he
A. H. HOBA, Proprietor.
56
MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
Uht,
PENZANCE.
MOUNTS BAY HOTEL, ESPLANADE.
THIS First-Closs Hotel was built and furnished by iLe prisent owner ne-rly twenty
yean tLgo. It has Piftr-flre Booms, haTiug an unintemii^ and unsnipawed View of St. 1
Moant and all the Bat. It ii heated In Winter with Hot Water. Pottinz in all iti Brant^tes.
Wine*, tc Table d'HOte.
me«t4 OAOb Train.
Winter Retort.
View of St. Micfaael'*
^ Cboto
Terms Modarale.
Ladies' Drawing JEtoona. Hot and Odd BaAs.
Mrs. E. liAVIN, Proprietresa,
PEQLI.
Sea Bathing.
an, AND ECO TEX..
DISTANT FROM GENOA: Alf HOUR BT TRAMWAY, AND THIRTJ MINUTES
BT RAILWAY.
SAME GLIMATK AS MENTONE AND SAN REMO.
Stay of Their Imperial and Boyal Highnesses the CBOWN
PBINCE and CBOWN FBINCESS of Qermany.
MAGNIFICENT First-Claas Establiehment, of 100 Booms, with
SoQtheni aspect, in the middle of a large Park and Qarden of Exotic Planu.
English Service In the Chapel, on the oronndd of the Hotel. Resioent English Physician.
Warm Sea Water Baihs. Splendid Bathing BBtabllsbment on the shore. Excellent place
for Excursions, Sketching, and Botanising. Flrst*rate Cooking. Very moderate prictv.
LANDRY ± BUOHBN, PnprUto t.
FOR TRAVELLERS AND SPORTSMEN.
Fifth Edition, with Woodcotf. small 8vo.
THE ART OP TRAVEL; or, Hints on the Sliifis and
Contrivances available in Wild Conntries. By Francis Galtox,
F.B.G.8., Author of *» The Explorer in South Afrioa."
** . . ^ . The ioldier gfiould be taught all tuch practical txpedunU and iheir pkilo
fopAy, ai laid down in Mr. Galton's i;skfdl littlk book." — M'nuU by the UUe Stf
Jamss Outram.
•* Mr. QftUoD publishes this little volume for the oie of tonrists who trarel far ^nd
• rough it.' it would also put som« useiml ideas into the heads .if men who stay al bom"."
— ' Munxner.
** A bandt)ook f^uch as tltia might prove a friend in need evm to an old traveller, while
to a } o«nf ooe who mteods to venture tieyoud railways ii mu«t be invaluable.*'— .4iAtira(i..t
i JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1882.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVBRTISER.
57
PISA.
HOTEL EOTAL GRiNDE B&ETAGNE
ET D'AHGLETEBBE.
•^PHE BEST HOTEL IN PISA (see Murray's Handbook of
^ Central Italy), oppoaite the New Bridge, " Pont Solferino," leading
direct to the Leaning Tower, Patronised by Henry Wadsworth Long-
fellow, Silvio Pellioo, and Ma-iimo d'Azeglio, whode recouimen'ation is
writtei In the Visitors' Book of the Hotel.
Fifty yeara established, and known for its great comfort. Splendid
Terrace, with view of the Surrounding Country and Cathedral. Full
South on the Arno, with a nice Garden.
Next to the English Church.
GAPOCGHI Ef MENESINL
Spedai Terms at Moderate Prices for the Winter Season.
PISA.
B07AI> VICTOBIA HOTAIi.
Oean. Great aitenUon* Eeammended.
MeflSTB. MaquAt Hookbb'b Banking Office
is in the Hotel.
RAQATZ.
80HWSIZERHOF HOTEL &
PENSION.
T) EST sltoatlon, next to the BathP, affords
•L' erary onnTenleQoe to KnglUh and Amerli an
TniTellen. XsfUih P&pen. Garden. UfHlomte
G oAXJtEt Propriotor.
PLYMOUTH.
THE ROYAL HOTEL,
FIBST-CIiASS FAMTT.Y AlSfD FOSTINa HOtJSK
g> PKAUSR, Proprietor,
PLYMOUTH.'.
Only Hotel with Sea View.
f^TtJ^lS D KLOTEIL..
(ON tHE HOE.)
Pacing 8<mnd, Brpakwater. &c. Mall Steamers anchor in eight. Pnblio Rooms, and Sitting
hoom^, with Balconies. JAMB8 BOHN, Pioprietur.
PLYMOUTH.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR DEVON AND
CORNWALL.
2 vols. Post 8vo.
JOHN HUBRAT, ALBEMARLE STREET.
58
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
Mhv,
PLYMOUTH
DUKE OF COTINWALL HOTEL.
Railway Termiuoi- Plymouth, Devon (Postal Telograph Office). Oriental Steam NaTigatiaD
C ^mpany'ti Office. Fint-Class Family Hotel. Table d'Hdto daily.
Apply to the Manofftr.
PRAGUE.
"ENGLISCHER HOF."
(h5tel D'ANGLETERRE.)
FIB8T-CLASS. The next to tbe Vienna, Dresden, and Karlsbad
Station. Fattoniaed by English and Americans. English, American,
and French Papers. Beading Boom. Ladles' Coffee Koom. Esoellent
Boaid. Beaaonable Obargee.
OUSTAV HUTTIO, Proprietor.
PRAGUE.
HOTEL GOLDEN ANGEL.
Ztkm Qoldenen Engel Hotel de VAnge JO'Or, Zeltner Street, Old Tovcn.
C ITU ATE D at an easy diBtance from the Terminus of tlie
^ Ballinray to Praaden and Viemia, P6it and Telegraph Oi&oeB, the
Custom House, the Theatre, and Qthor Pnblio Buildings. English and
l'ren'»h Newspapers. Cold and Warm Baths.
F; STIGKEL; Proprietor.
1882.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
59
RHEINFALL. NEUHAU8EN, 8CHAFFHAU8EN.
HOTEL 8GHWEIZEBH0E. Pbofbhtob, Mb. WEGENSTEIN.
THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to English visiton as one of th« best Hotels in
SwitierUHidt has b«ea greatly anlarged, and is now a MmuUiI fln*-rat« MtabUshiMni.
The 8CHWKIZSRH0F b dttuita opposite the oelebratod Falls of the Rhine, and rammnded by a Una
park axid garden. The podUon is unsaipaaed, tba «fa ranging a dirtanoa of abora 180 mOea— a paaoramlo
riew indndlng tba whole range of the Sarlai Alps and the Mont Blanc. Healthy cllmata. Church Serrioa.
Prcierved Trout Flshlac. Prioes moderata. Pwtkm. H«
mot.
HOTEL AND PENSION BIGHI-SOHEDECK
Terminus Station of the Bigi Ealtbad-Boheideck Bailway.
ReceUently suited for Tourists and Pensioners, Viets on the Alps
as beauHful as at Eigi'Kulm,
MODERATE CHARGES. LIBERAL TREATMENT.
By a stay of Hot lets than four days, arrangement by pension can be made at 8 to 12 flrancs
per d«y per person. For further infomation apply to the
Proprietors, HAU8SB ft 8TIERLIK.
N.B.— ToarisU having ^KkeU from Vltcnaa to Rigl-Kulm can iotemipt the Jraniey at
Rigl Kaltbad, take advanitge of the beauttftil Excursion to Scheideck and back, and then
oonttnoe the Journey to Kulm by a following Train.
RIGI-KALTBAD.
A LPINE GLIBIATB. 1500 uetr«B aboye Hie sea. Opeoed from June
-i^ to Ortober. FirsuClass Hotel, with 300 Rooms comforUbly furnished. Finest situa-
tion. The only Establishment on the Rigt sheltered from the cold winds. Large Hark an<l
Oardens. Ttrri^^^ Vvr^ndahs, especially for ihs use of VldtorSb lievel WaHn and' faci^ittea
for Sxcukvlons.] • i ! • , ;
Railway SUtion. Post andTelegraph Offloei PhysicUn. Baths. Divine Service
Orchestral Band.
dood
NEWSPAPERS, BILLIARDS, ^b., IN TBB UOVSE.
PezLBion Arrax^gementSr
Further information will be given by
XL SBGI&8SEB FAADBXT, Proprietor.
60 MDBBiT^ HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mar,
ROME.
HOTEL MINEBVA.
THIS large Establishment, whose direction has lately been
taken up again by the Proprietor, M. Joseph BauvB, bas been
considerably ameliorated both as regards the perfect service and tKe j
most elalx>rate comfort. Large Apartments as well as small, and Booms I
for Parties with more modest tastes, both very carefully furnished, arc tt> <
be found here. I
Its position is one of the most advantageous. It is situated in the {
very centre of the Town, and oloee to the most remarkable Monument*. .
tiie Post and Telegniph Offices, the House of Parliament, and the Senste. I
The Ladies' Dr&vnng Boom^ the Smoking Boom, ana |
Beading Booms, where the principal Newspapers of every country i
are to be found, and the Bathing Booms, are always oan^fnlly wanntd.
TWO OMNIBUSES BELONGING TO THE HOTEL MEET '
EVERY TRAIN. \
THE WAITERS AND CHAMBERMAIDS SPEAK ALL THE \
FBINCIPAL LANGUAGES.
VERY MODERATE TERMS.
ROME.
CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
ONE OP THE LABGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE
HOTELS IN ITALY.
Facing the Bailw y Station, in the most elevated part of the Town, aud
the nearest to all the Antiquities and Attractions.
FBOFBISTOB OF THE WBIiIi-KK'GWir
HOTBL D'AIiUgWAGNSL
SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY OF ROME.
HEATED WITH HOT-AIR STOVES.
ELEVATOR WITH SAFEH BRAKE.
. F. Ii. IiUaANI. Proprietor.
1882. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 61
G
ROI^E.
RAND HOTEL DE BUSSIE. ET DES 1LB8 BRITANNIQUBB.
TEii^ flnUCUMiEttabUsIimeni poiwedBeo tbe adTaotage of a beauflfal Gardeo, and la
litnated near the EDsliB^ and American Cbnrchea; the prtnolDtl Apartments face the
SoDtb, the entire Hotel Mng warmed hv two calorlftrea, and the whole arraDgemenu and
moderate prloea give nnivenwl iaiisfaGtlon.
MAZZERI, Proprietor. ^__
1 ROM E.
IIOTEL ANGLO- AMERIOAIN, Vii Frattina, 128. Between the Corso
-'-'- and Piazza d'Sp«gna. Tbc nearest Hotel to the Post and Telegraph OfBces. Situated
foil Houtb, In the most healthy part of the Town. Large and small Apartments. Table
d'Hote. Keetaorant 3aloa« Reading Room, with NewspaperB In fonr languages. Smoking
and Billiard Room. Bath Room. Pension, and arrangements for KamiUes. Moderate Ohai^es.
Omnibus at tli« Station to meet every Train. The principal langnoges are spoken.
VISeiOTTl db MJBSLI, Proprietors.
ROTTERDAM.
H. A. KBAMERS & SON,
Mr. MuBUAi^ 'Handbooks fDr Travellers/ Bbasbhaw's Monthly Railway Qnldes.
BaSDBKiB'0 * Reisebandbtlcher/ and HsHDeoHBL's ' Telegraph/ always in Stock. ik>ok[
in all Langnages imported every day, and a ^preat variety of New Books kept in Store.
3>, emPBRgCHg KADB, 86.
I ROUEN.
GBANJ> fiOTBL BE FBANOE, 07-99, Roe dee Owioea. Entirely
and carefnlly reoraanised by the new Proprietor, lliis First-Class Hotel is non
a cnrloeity more in tbe Town* and sltiated In central position near the Public Building-
and Theatres, specially recommended to Families viaitli>g tbe Noimandv Coasts. Large
Cuuriyard and Garden, where Breakfast, Lnncbeons,and Dinners are served in tbe Summer.
Ladies' Room, Smoking Room, Table d'hdte at 6 o'clock. First^ClMS Restaurant.
E. BARBIER, Proprietor.
ROUEN.
GRAND HdTEL DE PARIS.
Be
SPLENDIDir SITUATED ON
THE QUAI X>E PARIS,
COMMANDING PICTURESQUE
VIEWS OF THE SEINE AMD MOUNTAINS
SPECLLLLT BBCXUQfENOED TO
FAMILIES AND SINGLE TRAVELLERS.
Conversation Saloon. Smoking Room.
MODERATE PRICES.
TABLE D'H6tE. SERVICE ^ LA CARTE
INTERPRETER, RECOMMENDED,
GUXITABD BATAXLLABB, PropriAtor.
62 MUBRArS HANDBOOK ADVSRTiaEIL Mar,
ROUEN. ^
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERBE (On the Quay).
Mr. AUGD8TE KOITEflER, Pro|Mietor, Sucoeasor of Mr. LfiON SOOGRABa
THIS HOTEL it dtotingntsbed fbr the salnbrity of Its sltottioB, am. ; tad the new Pro-
prietor bu entirely re-fitted It. and added « very comfortable SmoUng-Room. It ta
•Itnated on the (joay flidng the Brfdma, and oommauda the flneat view of the SeliMb nd
the magnificent Scenerv encircling Rouen, that tt la poealble to imagine^ Tr«vell«rs «iU
find at thia flrat-rate Kttabllahment every comfort-^airy Koom^ good Beds, Refreakmeatt
and Wlnea of the beat quality al moderate Prieca. An excellent tahle d'Odte at Six
o'clock. Refttanrant d la ocuU,
Mr. Monnier speaks English, and lias English Serranta.
An exeellmt Descr^ve Ouide of Rouen am be kad of Mr. MoHmant.
'^~ R0YAT-LES-BA1N8.
GRAND HOTEL.
L. SEBTAHT, Proprietor.
FIBST-GLASS HOUSE. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
Opened from the First of May till the end of
October.
SALISBURY.
THE WHITE HART HOTEL* Nearly Opposite the CathedraL The largest
X and principal Bptei to ttm Olty.~Thto oM f WUhrt 1im-«lMi Hotel ooateiiMi evury afwiiiiiihrtM to
Uentlmncn. Tl|ble d'BAte dailj4imiif tha mmpq ftm •tot9Mp^. at MfhiatelaK &iiii|i« aai
HoTMMiOnhiflftirtlaaetengaaadotlm'plaoBBof InleiMV StaiUMilStatliaK,IiOW»>ak«i. Ac. fkridcB
annliratloa to
^^ B. T. BOWlfiS, Mahaoik, Poatiitg Maater to Her Majeaty.
SALZBURG.
HOTEL DE UEUROPE.
OPPOSITE the Station. First-OlasB Hotel, svroixnded by a Uu]^^'
Park, md offering the best view on the MouiltaiDt.
PENSION.
]MCodera.te Oliajrgres^
O. JUNG, Proprietor.
SAN SEBASTIAN.
HCfTEL INGLES Y
DS INOLATBRBA.
Facing the Sea.
Biigilah Fa|»ei%. Aaglidi Spoken.
SAN SEBASTIAN.
Murray'B Handbook for
fipaixL -
MapB and Plans. Post 8to.
Jobs MtTB&AT, AlbemarU StrefL
1882. HOIOUrS HANDBOOK ADTBRTISKS. 63
SAN AEMOj ITALY.
WEST -END HOTEL.
A LABGE Bnilding, expressly built for an Hotel, with all
-^ the latest appliances to inaiipe perfection in sanitary arrangements
—its Closets being on the most approved English principle. Beantifally
sitnated at the West End of the Town, a good distance from the Sea,
commanding an extensive View of the Bay.
LIFT. READING, BILLIARD, and SMOKING SALOONS.
IiADIES* DBAWING ROOM.
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS,
Sxoelleuit Caisiuie ariid Olioioe Wines.
GREAT CLEANLINESS.
Omnibus of the Hotel meets all Trains.
social arrangement$for a lengthened M^oum.
ONLY HOUSE WITH LIFT.
All Languages spoken.
Proprietor, BOBEBT WTJLMNG.
ScHWAL6aCH.
THE DUKE OF NASSAU HOTEL.
This First-CIass Hotel, with private Hotel adjoining, is beantifnlly
Bltaated in the bvalthiest and best pan of tbe toi^n. facing ibe Hnblic Promenadea. and
in clo»e proxiniliy to tbe Koyal Babs, tbe Mew Curhonise, tbe Drinking Hall, and the
English Church. It conuin* a gcod number of elegam ly-turnialied ApartmeQt^ and Salvons
for &millet and sirigle gemlemen, and combines oomfun with Moderate Charges. Thig
Hotel is patroQiecd by Bkany dietlngolshed families of England and the Continent. Pavonr-
able *' Pension *' arrangements are made at the end of tbe Season. A comfortable Omnlbtu
belonging to the Hotel starU from Sihwalbacb to Wiesbaden at eight o*clocklntbe morning,
and leaves Wiesbaden at five o'clock In the afternoon, opposite tbe Hallway Stetion, from
the Taunns Hotel. Gafl6 ResUvrant, Faulinenberg. Whey and Milk Establishment, ten
minntes' walk fh>m tbe Nasnn Hotel, with which there is cummnnlcatlon by Telephone,
delightfully situated, amidst a beautifnl park with splendid view.
J. C. WILaELMY, Proprietor. _
SCHWALBACH. "~
h6tel allee-saal
(HOTEL. DE LA PBOMENADE.)
D6pendanoe: VILLA OKEBEET.
„_'-CLASS HOTKL. Under the Patronage of T.R.H. the Prince and Princess of
Wales. FERD. GREBEHT, SONS, ]?rcprietor8.
XpiBST.
J} Wa
SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT.
i$li»nklia for Sunahine.
HINTON'S ROYAL SPA HOTEL. Facing the Sea and under the Clllfc In the Isle of
of Wight, a Sheltered and Sequestered nook. Drawing-room, Conservatorr, Flowers
and Birds. Table-dlidte at 1, separate Tables; 60 Bed and Sitting Rooms; BllliardB and
Lawn Tennis fkee of charge, and constant amusements. TarilT, on application, fbr Families
realdlng In the Hotel. Pension, £8 3«. per week in winter ; £3 13«. Sd^in Summer.
64 HDRRArS HANDBOOK ADTISTISKR. Mav.
SEVILLE.
GRAND HOTEL DE MADRID.
FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel, the largest in Seville. Well
situated. ApartmentB for Families. TaUed'H6te. Bead-
ing and Smoking Rooms. Foreign Newspapers. Batlis,
Tropical Qardens, Carriages, Interpreters. Arrangements
for Winter.
Moderate Prices.
JULIO MEAZZA, Manager.
SPA.
GRAND HOTEL BRITiHHIQDE.
F. LEYH, Proprietor.
PATBOHISBD BT THE BOTAI FAMUT OP BELOIUH,
And maintainfl a high reputation among the Aristooraoy of
Bnrope.
8IT0ATEO IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWM.
LARGS OARDEN AND SWIMMINO BATHS.
Jcyoining the BouUvard de$ Anglais and (he Ifnglisih Church.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
OMLIVXBXJS AJJD S^OH AJEtEtTVAJL,.
SPA. '
H6TEL DES PAY8-BAS.
Vye. I. DE COCK, Proprietress.
'DIR8T-CLABS. Exceptional situation at the top of the Town. Large
J- Qarden oppoBlte the Pouhon, duM to the Casino and Batha. Okanilms at the dUiiuB.
Much recommended,
spa!
GRAND h6tEL DE L'EUROPE.
FUBEtT-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid Situation. Pine Apartmenta. Drawing and Reading
9oom. Every Oumforu fipaciona and handsome alteratioos hare been Uttely nude.
(mnU0U$ qf tkM Bold at tkt jniwU of tntrtf TVaift.
1882.
MURRArS HANDBOOK ADirBBTISBR.
65
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.
GRAND HOTEL.
THIS HancUome Building is aituftte*! in the jflnest part of the Cityt
between Charles the X£^'«r6qfa?e and the National Musemn, on
one of the Pnpcinal Qoays, ju^t at the conflutooe ef the Lake M&lar and
the Baltic. .
The Bo jid Palaee, one of the Blateliest in Europe, fiuM the flatel dn
the oppoBttiB Bide of the Harbour. The Bojal Opera and the Prineipal
Theatres are in dose proximity.
Tha jbalooniee aad roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views
of the Oitj. — —
The House is replete iTith every modem knproFvement and convenience,
and QOMi^nfq lias teen tipwed to render it one of the firtt asd moBl com- I
fortiUeJf ate)» on fhe Oont!n«nt.
The Building co|!itaii^^^r.Hu:i|dred'Sle0pinff Apartments, besideB
Dialng Booms, Sitting^ Rooms, Coffee and Beading Booms, a Billiard Boom, I
a TelegrMph and Post Offlee, BatiiB, Etttring Booms,aLauDdzy,aiid«ter
accommodations. The several flatBoan.be reached by Steam Lifts.
AilSiuBpeaaEanfBBiiBBpDktfb GuideB amd Omv^raooai sill^lhled Ao
all plMe»4>f intereet in the City and Neighbouihood. SWnu will fia found
to compeffeifeveiirably wKh these of other flrBt-dass ^etels.
GuBTAJ- Adolf's Tobo.
THIS Old-eBtablifihed House has long been favourably known tf> ^^vel-
lers. It contains One Hundred and ^^ Sleepmg Apartiqente.
TlielhKiinietQr ef these Two Firtt-OliEUM Btotels is^ in a peaitioirto'oifer
every advantage to siiangefB vinting the Swedish Capital.
R. OADIER,
Prapnet<n' of the Grand H6UI and the EdidBydberg.
66
MURRAY'S HAKDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May,
SCHWALBACH.
Hotel M6trop61e Ddpendanoe
Villa M^tropole.
Firit-OUBB Hotel. Ff ne •Itiwtioii. In the
HMMt aiiy Mid healthiest part.
G, HBRBSTBR^ Proprietor.
SHEFFIELD-
MIDLAND STATION HOTBL.
A Fint-Claas Hotel, within one minute's
walk of the Station. Telephone. Hotel
Porters attend the Trains.
GEORGS WOOD, Proprietor.
SOUTH PORT.
(ON THE PROMENADE.)
Facing the Sea. Adjoining the Winter Gardens. Charges Moderate.
arding Tenne, Three Qnineas per Week.
Boardii^
J. C. SBIDENSTRICKER, PrtpriOor.
STRASBURQ.
h6tbl D'ANGLETERRE.
NEWLY EESTOBED, and Purnighed with every modem
comfort by its new Proprietor, Oh. Mathib. Opposite the Railway
Station. Adjoining the Post and Telegraph Office. Near the CalhediaL
80 Sitting and Bed Rooms.
p
■.STUTTGART.
Bitnated in the finest part of the Town, in the beantifnl Place Boyal,
near the Railway Station, the FMt OfBoe* the Theatre^ the Royal Oaxdem, oppoelte the
Palace, and facing the new Qdeon. Thia Hotel wlU be fonnd maet conCortehle in ewj
TCspect* the Apartni(>nt8 are elegantly furnished, and wiitable for Families or Single
Gemlemm. Table d'HAte at limd 6 o'clock. French and Euglhh Newspjpen^^^
THUN (SwitzeHand).
GRAND HOTEL DE THOUNE
(THXJNEKHOF).
FMpri0tor, Ol BTAEELE, formBrlj Xaaafer at the H6tel Bantr an lae,
Ziizieh.
FIBBT-OLASS HOTEL, the brgest and most oomfoitable fan the place,
bettilfnlly attooted ai the Lake^ with a apieDdid vftew ef the Alpi^ and aBROBaded
by a large Qaiden. A Temce fonod the whole 1
i apieDdid vftew ef the Alpi^ i
la length of the Honae} no equal ia Swltan-
Ihera is also a lift
FBICEB ABE FIXED VP W ^HACH BOOM,
PenBibn, tlie whole Season by staying Five Bays.
THUN, SWltZERLAND.
FALCON HOTEL.
OBNTBAXi ON TBA AAB.
GOOD SITUATION.
COMMSBCJAL AND PAMILT ffOTEL.
OPEN ALL THE YKAR.
TOURS.
h6xEL DS Ii'UJNlVJkSBS.
Pleajantly Sttaatod. Haa a BanpcsB
BepatatioB.
apwtattyf arranged for FiomUtUt,
Eit«usB SroKXS.
1882. MCJRRAT9 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 67
TOTNE8.
THE BBTBIOUB FAMILY HOTEL^ <m the banks of the DABT,
TOTRK9. t>»troiiiiBd bf B.B R. tb« Prlaee of WalM. ■nmrtoti tad Fimiiia^ TWttaf the anri?d]ad
■eeoHv d th* BlT«r Dart and Booth Davon. will ted the abora Hold moat omiaalaiil Tha Hotal la
nmlabad with avary raqnlilta. aaoh room oonunaiidiofC an csteoalra and beaaflfnUjr raried laadaoap^
Tha niim of ToUmm. Barry PDoiaro*, and Ooaiptoii OasUfla, ara within mrr dtotaaca Hafaie Ghaaa, the fti^
ftaMdBiieUaiidlMfat.BjQr1te and Dartinogr, within pofMbigdUtaaoa. Boata ran ba hfaad nrom tha Hatal
<3avdaD8(a|M. Hontinf aad Wahiac in tha immadlata fia^hboarhood. OmalbvMi ftwi tha Hold aaaat aU
Tialaa aad Dart Staamboata.
Post Soraes and Ouriaces. &. 4e F. MXTCHBLL, Proprietors.
TOULOUSE.
GEAND HOTEL DU MIDL
Patroniaed by the Duke of ITorfolk and Duo d'Aumale.
BEAVTIFOLLY SITUATED ON TEE PLACE J>U CAPITOLE.
FXRST-CLASS KSTABLISHMENT>
Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in france.
Frequented by the higheit CUus of Engluk and American TraveUen.
English spoken. Bestanrant and Table d'Hdte. Bioh Beading Boom
and Oonversation Salon.
aXJQ. POURQUHBR, ProprUtor.
A TOULOUSE.
GRAND HOTEL SOUVILLE (Place du Capitole).
17 £Pr If M. DABDIGNAC; BMtaur»tear. A Vintclau House, oitB of the bwt-fttcuitod
i\- In the Town, dose to the Grand TliMtra, Po«t and Telegrapb OfDce. Is to be recom-
mended from Its gtod Altendasoe. Mom oonftnteble Apartments, aaloo^ and Bedrooms.
ResUnrant at flmf-Mees, or & la carte. Prtrate Service for FamiUec. Batlu and Private
Carriages In the HoteL Osrrlagea and Omnlbos enter the Goortyard of the HoieL
TURIN.
GBAHO HOTEL OE LEUBOPE.
PBQPBIETOBS—
Messrs. BOBOO and OAOIIABDL
Sltaated Piaoe de Oli&teaxi, opi>offiite tbe
Kinn^s Pa.laoe«
{Five mintUeefrom ihe Bailway StaHon,)
IHIS unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel reoommends itself to
the nottoe of Englieh trayellers.
T
EXCELLENT TABLE D'H6tE AT 6 O'CLOCK.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.
IiderpretetB speaking all the European Languages.
Oharges Uoderate. The Times Newspaper. An Omnibus
from the Hotel will be found at every Train.
68 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mar,
" TURIN.
GRAND HdTEL LIOURIE,
BodonI Square^ and Andrea Doria and Chariaa Albert Straeta.
MAOKIFICBNT. very fcood and oomfortoble. Removed to » large and MUDptaoas
PlOaoe, nptmdj Irailt. FlratiCUM Family Hotel. The only oae of Tarin iaeUted
in a lugs beaatf ftil aqoare. splendidly exposed to the sooth. Highly patmnised bf the
beat English and American Families. AliBINO QTJII>I,^oprietOT.
VARESE. (LombardyO
GRAND HOTEL VARESE.
In dinct commanicaUon by Ball wHh
MILAJSr, LAKJS MAQQTOEE, COMO, amd LUGAIfO.
FIRST-GLASS HOTEL, snmnmded with an extensiye GABDEN
and PARK, alliiated in the best and liealthiest part of Lombardy, 1319 feet above the
Sea, commanding a most eztendve view of the Alps, Monte Rosa Chatau, and ootitainlng
900 Rooms and ISAloonei.
PENSIOK. Baths on each floor. English Chmch. English Physician attached tothe Hotel.
^ B. MABINI, Manager.
VENICE-
GRAND HOTEL MTlLIE,
BAUER TRUNWALD.
Fmfft-GLASS HOTIO., BOW St. Mark's Sqnaie, on tbe
Grand Oaoal, fiunng the dutMh of St Maria della Salute.
Fresh and Salt Water Baths reac^ «t all hours.
VMrilMt/br «• " <lrlMil BetUmumf OT4 VUnnvBrnt. ,
iNLflg TB<n>rwjm>, TtopAtam,
» * ■
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
QLD-ESTABLISHED FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, rituated
on the Grand Canal. Large and (mall Apartmenis for FamOiee and
Gentlemen. Visitors will find this Hotel very comfortable, well-sitQate^.
and zeasonable in its Charges.
MAJtSMLLE BBQP, Proprjeters.
V«RONA.
GKAND HOTEL DE LONDRES.
FORMERLY BOTSL DB LA TOUR DE LONDRES, A. CRRESA, New PropifeCor.
iDMt HoM ia Yerona, near the Bonum Amphlthaalre. Kngliih Ohait^ SstviOM la <1»
««Dtiml yoritlga. Gnat comftnt. All JLMfoaaM BpokM. Owniliea^D aad tum tM
nwii,
a. OiLVXfiTRI. ICaBager.
1882. ItUBRArii BAin>BOOK ADVERTISER. 69
Vl£NNA.
OEAKD E6TSL,
EABNTHNEBBINO No. 9,
SITUATED on the most elegant and frequented Square of
the City. Three hundred Jfcooms, from 1 florin upwards.
Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Beautiful Dining
Saloon, Bestaurant Saloons, Conyersation, Smoking, and
Beading Booms*
BATHS & TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE.
Lifts for Commtuiication with each Storey.
DINNERS it BUFFERS A LA CARTE. TABLE D'HOTE.
OlOrZBTnSBB AT THX BAHiWAT BTAHOIIB.
VIENNA.
J. & L. LOBMEYR,
GLASS MANUFACTUBBBS,
Appointed JPurveyorB to the Imperial Court of Axuitria»
No. 13, KABKTHNEBSTRAS8E.
The most extensive EstahlUhmentfdr Bohemian Crystai^ Femes
OlasSy and Chanddiers.
Every yariety of Glass for Household use. Ornament, and in Art
Workmanship SpecialitieB in Engrayed Glass and Looking-Glasses.
Chandeliers, Candelabras, in Orystal and Bronze.
IiABGE SHOW-BOOMS UFSTAIB8.
The prices are fixed, and aie tery moderate. — ^English is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'CftAOKBar, No. 88,
Queen Streel^ Cannon Street, E.C., Loudon, will transmit all orders with
the greatest care and attention.
^0 MDRRXrS HANDBOOK ADVERTISRB. M«y,
V E V E Y<
HOTEL MONNET AND TEOIS
COUEOMES,
F. SCHOTT.
GRAOT HOTEL DE 7EVET,
A. HIRSCHT.
npHESE two First-Claas Hotuos aro beautifiilly Bitoated
<m the Lake of Geneva, with a magnificent view from the Gafdens
in&(iaitoftheHotel.
GREAT COMFORT AND CLEANLINESS.
ABBANGEMBNT8 MADE DUBING THE WINTEB
''EN PENSION."
VICHY.
GEAND HOTEL DU PARC-
THE URGE8T AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
AFntST-GLASS HOTEL, sitoated in the Park, faoing the Batha,
Springs, and Casino.
Pff/VATE PAVILION FOR FAMILIES.
OEBMOTi Proprietor.
VIENNA.
HdlZL DE LA OOTTB IHAVTBIGHE.
(68TERRE1GH HOF.)
FIRST-CLASS Hotel. Moderate Chargea.
Bath. English Newqpapeis. Kngliah
spoken.
J. HANISCH, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
Murray's Handbook fbr
South Qermany.
Post 8yo. 10<.
JOHN HURRAY, Albemerle Stnsei.
WIESBADEN.-ROSE HOTEL AND; BATH HOUSE.
SPLENDID Pirst-GlaBS Establishment dose to the CorsaaL opposite the
TrinkhaUe, and adjoining the Promenade. No other Hotel except thia ia annoasdcd
tqr a Garden of ita own, or anpplled with Hatha direct firom the hot Bprtnga (KochbrnnneB).
Quiet and airy attoatkn, with £ngllah oomlbrt and reaaonahle Cbaigaa. Drawlog, Hearting.
nA Smoking Rooma, and Billiard Room, conUlnlng a nui-dced BUUaid TaMe. -Table
jfHWeat^One and Five o'clock. H AEPPNEB PBEBBS, Proprietor..
1882.
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
71
YIOHY.
Vi«w7 9^ ^« Orftnd Hotel dM ▲mbaasadeum at ViobF-UMi' Buiiis.
rtBAND HOTEL 0E8 A^BASSADBUBS, Situated on the Park.^
VT ThifiiMcinifloentHotellaiiowoMofthoflnt In the town. It la manafad in the mbm itjl* ai tb«
OMfno. TteBoMi
lanartaadbaBthoteliontheOoiitlncnt. Bj Its eioMilional ritiutlon. the booM praMnto thrM fhmli, ftom
whieh &• molt beantUtal vlapi an to be bad ; and from Its faaloonles is beard the asoellant Band of tbe
~ 'Mi»laomfl.90BalaeM,a8)ilotolbrBanqMfti.anaUeorheMlnf MtiMMM.
- - - and S BiUUrd TaUeTBesteSuit et
ken. Tbe Onmlboa at 1h» T
AOB, Proprietor.
»ihA ^ laige axkd fine Dtninc BfM?Tft, SOO Corei^ a Smokiiig Room,
■arrlae b la Oute. LarRO and imall raartmonts for f^tnlllat. Ibwliah vpoken. Tbe Onmlboa d flie Hotel
■ - ■ ■ - • "BAXr-PL.
avaHe aU the TkmliM at tbe station.
BOTJBBAX
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU.
(mass A us a HOF)
Messrs. QOETZ BBOTHEB8, Proprietors,
f'IBST-OLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the
^ CnrbAua, Golonuades, Par^s, and next the Theatr«. Splendid Dining and Beading
Boofms. Table d'Hdte at One and Five o'clock. Mineral fiaUn of Own Hot Spring.
h6tEL villa NASSAU.
Annexe of the Hotkc. or Nassau. Proprietore al4o Meesrs. Qortz Bbothbbs.
PINEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modem Comfort, in
■*- beantifnl Bitoalion next the Hot Sprinire. Theatre, Cu^hao^ Colonnade^ etc
WIESBADEN.
GEAUD HOTEL DU RHIN AND BATH.
FIBST-GLASS New House, exceedingly well situated, just
oppoeite the Bailwa^ StatioD, the Poet and Telegraphic direction,
on the Promenades, combining comfort with Moderate Charges. Music
and Beading Saloons. Booms from 2mk8. 50 pf. per day, inolusiTe of
Candles and Service. In Winter the whole Building and Winter Gardens
are well warmed. The Omnibus for Schwalbach and Schlangeobad starts
from near the Hotel.
Large stock of the best Bhine and Moselle Wines for wholesale.
Radway TickeUfor aU the Toum$ on the Continent are issued in Vie EoteL
73
HaRRAY'8 HANDBOOK idDVABTIARR.
M«Ti
^' ZAia WIESBADEN. Proprietor.
"POXJR SBASONS" (Vler Jahresselten) HOTEL.
THIS Firet<:;iaM Hoqm enjoys the finest position in the Great Sqnan,
;[- ftdng tba KnrMuO, the Park, and being close to the Sprtoti. Knm^nraA Saloont wflk
BAlconiefl and oomionahle Hloeping Booms. Fine Dlntag and Anembly Bo(
Miami Bathing EMaMlibiiient. Charges Moderate.
i Aasembly Boovm. I^ige
WIESBADEN.
HOTEL VICTORIA AND BATH.
T7itB£T-CLAf« HOTEL, irHta real Engltth fomfbrt, idtiiate opposite the Bailwaar and the
X PniBenade; splmdldW tltM up for Vapour. Roeslan, and all Medical fiatha; on
fifrfng. MagAtfloently P^vnlshed ApaiWffc. Moderate Chtfgea. Good AtMAdanee.
; koMM ftoM 2 marfes and npwardik
WILDBAD.
HOTEL KLUMPP,
Mr. W. KLUMPP, FftomaroB^
rS Fir«t<;ia«lloteUeoo(idiiing45Sftlooosawl2S6BsdItoMBa»wltii*sspsn«c
Breskiktt and new Reading and ConTejrsatioii Ronma, as irell ss a 8lookJb|
Saloon and a Tsry extensive aodslegukt Dining Room; an artilioial Garden ervertkt
rirer ; is beautifully situated in oonnection with tlie old and new Bath Baildiogi
and Convenation House, and in the immediate yidnity of the Promenade and the
New Colonnade. U is oelabrated for it* eligant and comfortable apartments^ goed
OnisHie and GeUar, end deeerves its wlde^read repatataon as sd eBselleni ReSeL
Table d'Hdte at One and Five o'clock. Breamsts and Suppers h ia earte.
Exchange Office. Corrcspondent of the prineipa] Baaldng^honses of London Ar
the payment of Circnlar Notes and Letters of Cndit. OmniboMs of ikt HoUl lo
and from each Tndn, Elevators to every Door. Fine Private CSarriages when
requested. Warm and Cold fiaths in the Hotel.
XXCBLIiENT AOCOMMODATXOK.
WURZBURG. ^ _
KRONPRINZ HOTEL.
HONOURED by the presence of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor
of Oermany, en tbe occasion of his recent tIsU to ibis Town. This FIraMaass H«iel
is parttcSUrly reoMnmended for Its Lakge and Airy Apsrtnwnts, having the goest altafttfn
near the 8uti jo, facing the Palace, and acUointng a fine OaTden. Reading Hooma. Oald and
watm Balh^ Ito. Moderate Charges. No extra charges for Service and OmftlM.
jr. AKXON.
ZARAGOZA. SPAIN.
Grand H6tel de TEurope.
inaaiHiaf CbMng tmd ModmUt
. Ckarge$.
VIUDA DB ZDPPBTTI T HIJOS,
Pnprietora^
SPAIN.
I>anean*s Bnglfah in Spain;
or. The Storj of the War of SocoNska^
1S84 and 1840. UompUei Arott the Bb>
ports of the BrlttshOsAnisStaMn. Wiik
lUastraOona. 8vow Ite.
JOHN MITRRAT. Albemarie SIreeU
1882. MinSUT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 73
-ZURICH.
Railway station. TTATT^Tj HABIS. R«"^«y «**»»<>".
lyf OST Comfortable. 50 Eooras, with 80 Beds. Winter
■^^ Garden. Telephone. Moderate Frioes.
TouristB are hereby inyited on their arrival at the Station to ask for the
Hall Porter to attend to their Luggage.
ED. HABISREUTINGER, Proprietor.
ZURICH.
WANNKB'S HOTEL GABNI, on the Bailway Terminus, Bahnhof-
" rtnsse. The most beauttftal and open sitoation in the Town. Rooms, beauttfiillj
faraJabed, from fn. 1*60 to fis. 2*50. ApartmoiiB for FamHiMi The oomfiwlt m la a
Fixst-Clam HoteL
i0^ Itestamant OB Qrooad Floor. Oerman Boer on dm«glit. Bortw at the StatioiL
H. "WttnaUU Proprietor.
EVJESY TRAVELLER'S COMPANION.
Bixteentli fidititm. Fcap. 39. ed.
MURRAY'S
HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK.
DIALOGUES -QUESTIONS -VOCABULARIES.
IN KNGLISH, GKRMAir^ imSlNGH, AND ITALIAN.
PrepaA^ expretayfor Engliak TnxOlen Abrooid, and Fiore(gften 7itU(ng Sngland.
A New Editxov, tbobot7ghlt Bxtisbd.
The '^Itandbook of Travel Talk " is not a reprint of old manuals of
conrerBatiefn *■ dtawn np towards the end of fte last oentnry/f bat a
modem traveller's phrase book, compiled expressly to meet the wants of
the present day. Ample space is nven to anch matters as Bailway
(Taking Tickets— In the Train— The Station,^), Post Office, Telegraph,
Luggage Ofltoe, and to the multitude of tedudoal woi^ and phiaaea
which the progress of modem travel has developed.
During the Fifteen Editions which it has passed thfisu^h, it has
undeigone constant improvem«>ft: the oonsequenoe is, that it oontains
many words of modem invention not to be found in dictionaries.
*' The appearance of a new and careftilly reriaed editioa of Mr. Murray's excellent
* Handbook of Travel Talk ' is one of many sevexe symptoms of the return of the Tooriat
Season.
*• The compilers of the ' Handbook of Tmvel Talk ' appear to have kept steadily in view
the actnal needs of travellers; for it is atsord to pat a manoal of polite oonvenaiion on
literature* art, science, philosophy, and the mosioal giaises into the hand* of an honest but
uncultivated tourist, who can onlj'^alate bis simple wants in Inarticdlaile iJiteijectiona."
^Saturday Review, ____^
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
74
MaBBi.rS HANDBOOK ADVERtlSEB.
Mar.
ZURICH.
ZURICH is the Central Point of Eastern Switzerland
for TraflSc, Commerce, Industry, and for its Social Life.
Most beautituUy situated on the Lake and tlib Biver Limmat, with
extended Panorama of the Alpa from the XJetliberg RaUwaj, the
Zuriohberg and the " Waid." Celebrated Town Library. Scientific
OoUectioDS in the Polyt«cbnic.
Vnivchrsity, Obeerviitory. Well-known Beading-Boom in the
Mnsenm. Summer Tboatre. Daily Concerts in tbo Concert Hall.
HOTELS.
Om Ht0 Lak* aud iu tkt YicinUy. (kmtnA PmH tff Toira.
Baur au Lac, Th. Daur. BaurenVille,
Bellevue au Lac, Posu FAm BBUiarxR.
Du Lac, HOO0BB.
ZurcherhorLAJw. Schweizerhof, Mmrsa.
Falken, Webk. — y^
Hecht, WalMixiiir-Boller. Schwanen, Bruhoobr.
Rothhaus, Bbusxkr.
Kreua^ SeefeM, Mrtbr. SchlfT, Scbatti.
V«ar Ik* Baitwv SUUom.
National, Michbl.
St. Qotthard, Zolukkb.
Wann^r't Qanii,'WARBER.
Limmathof, iSnRBR.
8ieb«rz, SiRRRRe.
Boarding i/ouset and Curaiiw EstablishmmU : —
HOTEIi and PENSION «* UBTXiIBERO,*' on the Uetliberg.
J. BoLLEE and Sons.
HOTEL and PENSION SCHWANEN, on the Muhlebacb,
J. BoLLEB and SoKS.
PENSION NEPTTJN, Seefeld. Vye. Mettler.
Gastwirth-Verein— Society des HSteliers- United Hotel-keeper's Society.
1882. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE::. 75
HOW TO LEARN MODERN LANGUAGES.
The success attending Dr. Wm. Smith's ** P&incipia Iatina " and ^ Ihitia
GRiEXSA," which practical teachers have found the easiest books for learning
Latin and Oreek^ has led to the application of the tame method to the French,
G«rman, and Italian Languages. There is an ohvious advantage in a beginner
learning a new hmgnage on the plan with which he is dfreadj familiar.
These hook$ oomMne the adrantage of the older and more modem methods of
instruction.
FRENCH COURSE.
Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith.
FRENCH FBINCIPIA, Fart I. A First French Course,
contidnlng Grammarp OelecUu, Ezarclset, Vooftbolarlcfl, ftc. 12mo. 3i. ed.
APPENDIX TO FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part I.
OmtalnlDg AddlUoiul Kngnkw, with Examination Fapen. IJmo. 3t. 6<t
FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part IL A Beading Book,
» containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes flrom tbe
Hibtory of France. . With Grsminat;jal ijncstioos. Notes, and Gbpioos ItgrmologiGal
JMctiiAary. l2ino. 4$. Bd.
THE STUDENT'S FRBMCB GRAMMAR: a Prao-
tical and Historical Grammar of the FnnchLaaiuage. By a Huos-Waxx. With
Introduction by M. Lmnt, Post 8vo. 7f . 6d.
A SMALLER GRAMMAR 07 THE FRENCH
LAMOUAQK. AtrUfcd Inm Uw atora. tamt. U.«i.
GERMAN COURSE.
Edited by Dr. Wm. Shisb.
GERMAN PRINCIPIA, Part L A First G«nnaa
Course, containing a Grsmmar, Delsctos, Exerdses, yocabalsrles» Ac 12mo. 8s. 6d.
OE^HAlf TRU^CXFIA, Part XL A Beadii^g Book.
conulnfaig Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes. NstorsX Bistorr, and Scenes from the
HUUvy of Gsrmainr. Witb GFammatlosl (jnesttons, Notes, and Dictionaiy.
19010. af.6d.
PRACTICAL OBRMAN GRAMMAR. Wilka Bketeh
of tU ^Motjcal Usveloiimsat of tl« Uagasga and Ua fxiocipii DMoetsb Bost
ITALIAN COURSE.
Xdlied by Dr. Wm. 8Mini.
ITALIAN PRINCIPIA, Part L A First Italian Coune*
ooDtalnlDg a Gngnmar, Delectus. Bxeroise Book, with Yocabohurlst, and Jlalsiials
lor lullan CooverMrtloo. ^y Slgtior Ricoi. l«no. 8r. 64L
ITALIAN PRINCIPIA, Patt U A Vinst Italian
Heading Book, containing Fables, Anecdotes. History, and Hmsm finm llie beat
Italian Anthony with Grammatical Questions, Notesb and a copfons Etymuloi^
Dictionary. ISmo. St.M,
JOHN xueeatTalbebiaklb st^et.
MURBArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.
May, 1882.
BSTABjLlSHEE^ 18b a.
THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPOt,
▲HD
LEE & CARTER,
440, WEST STRAND, LONDON
(Nearly opposite the Chafing Cross Hotel).
SVAPttOSS
mwwom UUP.
TOBSMiJnXAXIX
SAOB
OF ALL nXM. I
ItUMJittf Tourktf an n^gee^uUif imiUtA U> vmt liU BikAUdmeik
before makiM(fyureha$e$ far iheirjaiitrnti/. '
AN EXTENSIVE 8T08K:0r XaCVEkLERS' fiEQUffilTES TO SELECT FROM. [
COURIERS, QR^OMEN,
AND
TRAVELLING SERVANTS
of good character aBid(dxi>exi6iideg ipftaking European
and Eastern Langnagee, :oa<a l^e engaged at the
above Establiahiftent
AIbo Passports and Visas' obtained. Passports
momted lon Iiinen and put to-Qwesj with Name
printed outside. ^ ^PK
440, ,1RFEST. 8TrjRAJVI>.
L
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11