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HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

Hand Craft Projects

FOR SCHOOL AND HOME SHOPS
FRANK I. SOLAR

Northern High School, Detroit, Michigan

Editor of "Toys and Useful Articles a Boy Can Make ', "Practical Construction Work for Home and School Shops*',

"Bird Houses of Simple Construction"

Drawings by the Author and A. M. Cornwell

Book I

THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY

Milwaukee, 'Wisconsin

PREFACE

This book is the first of a series whicli will include
oyer 2,000 articles. Boys and others interested in work-
ing with tools will find them a ^eat convenience. In-
stead of arranging the articles in one expensive book,
they will be written in a series of volumes, additional
volumes being published from time to time. Each
volume is to be sold at a moderate price and will make
an inexpensive but very welcome gift to those inter-
ested in hand work.

The projects in this book are not all original, but
are things that boys in my classes have made and enjoy
making. Many of the suggestions and ideas were
brought in by the boys themselves.

The articles describing the projects have been made
as sliort as possible in order that boys need not waste
time reading long descriptions.

Many of the models were excellent sellers in the
Red Cross sales and considered attractive enough to be
made a permanent exhibit at the Detroit Museum of
Art.

Money invested in tools is not wasted. A good selec-
tion will cost no more than a good bicycle, and if well
cared for will last several generations.

Parents who can interest their boys in tools and let
them have a shop at home, will know where to find

them evenings and many hours of worry will bo saved,
as the boys might be out on the streets or In pool
rooms. Moreover, the value of the useful articles they
might make should be considered. The boy himself,
no matter what vocation he follows later, will never
regret the time spent in the shop with his tools.

In these articles trade terms are used as often as
possible to familiarize boys with their use in real
practice.

It has been the author's ambition to have the draw-
ings of the projects so made that very little explana-
tion is necessary.

An effort has been made in formulating the projects
to eliminate the old hackneyed problems, and, although
the same names are used, an examination of the draw-
ings will show that each one is decidedly different and
possesses some originality.

Physical exercise is necessary for good health. Per-
sons engaged in work requiring veo' little physical
effort usually devote some time each day to calisthenics
or other artificial exercise. Effort spent on construc-
tive work with tools is more fascinating and is pro-
ductive of the same results, thereby accomplishing a
twofold purpose.

2066175

"Keep the faculty of eifort alive within
you with a little gratuitous exercise
each day."

— James.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Shop Notes and Etiriuotte 7

l/uuiber 8

Personal Equipment S. 9

Standards and Conventions 10. 11

Construction Proljlenis 10, 12

Common Joints 10, i:i

Tools 14

Commonly Used Hardware 15-20

Shop Kinks and Information 1.5, 21

Bits and Drills 21-2:!

Brads, Screws and Fastenini^s 2.3. 24

Sandpaper and Finish ■ 2,5

Finish 2,5, 20

Laying Out Tools 2C-2S

Saws 2S, 21)

Planes 28, 30 ,-!3

Planing and Scoring Rules 30. 32, R3

Worli Bench 34. 35

Combination Bench Ilook 30, 37

Toy Pig 3S, 39

Child's Morris Chair 40. 41

Cutting Board 42. 43

Toy Cannon 44. 45

Bath Koom Cup Holder 40, 47

Skate Sharpener 48, 49

Steam Engine .50,- 51

Toy Elephant 52, ,53

Feeding Bird 54, 55

Flying Propeller 50, 57

Potato Gun 58. ,59

A Wooden Doll 60. 61

A Thanksgiving Gobbler 02, 03

Aeroplane Weathervane 64, 65

POBC

.Small Cart an, 67

Ued Cross Ambulance cm. i!;i

Baby's Hocking Horse 70, 71

,Tuniping .Tack 72, 73

The Ilula naneers 74, 7.%

Mechanical Duck 70, 77

Scout Fireniaklng Set 7,s. 7i»

Bob Sled jm_ si

A High Spei'd Drill i<2, si

Crumb Tray ^, 8.5

Flag Ilidder ,s«, ^7

Toy Uabliit 8.S. SO

Target Pistol !K). 1(1

.Tack Be Nimble Kj, ict

Boy Scouts Heliograph !14, <(,">

(Jrouud Scratcher 00, 1)7

Child's Snow Shovel lis, IKt

Kites 100. 101

Puzzles 102. 103

Trench Mortar 104. 10.5

Straddle Horse 106. 107

The Bag Puncher lOS, 100

Low Folding Table 110, 111

Letter Hack 112, 113

Silhouette Camera 114. 115

Sewing Companion J16, IIT

Ornamental Garden Sticks U.S. 119

Mouse Trap 120. 121

Boys Handy Wagon 122. l'-'3

'I'ravelers Case 124. 12S

Hallowe'en Fun Makers 120. 127

Wind Mill Acrobat 128, 129

Pin ami Ball Game 130, 131

Page Page

Sail Boat ,132, 133 Fly Trap 144, 145

Chair Lami) 134, l.'!r> plant Box 14G, 147

'•'-'^ ""•"^ Jf' ]■" Submarine '. 14S, 140

Bull Dog 13S. 13!) , , ,

Christmas Tree Stand 140. 141 Phonograph Dancer loO. lol

Baby Auto Car 142, 143 Telephone Screen 152, 1.53

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

Shop Notes and Etiquette

This work, to be done in tlie scliool or liome sliop,
is for the purpose of training the hand to make what
the mind and eye picture, and to teach the care and
manipulation of common wood-working tools.

All work should be done from working drawings,
blue prints or sketches. Never begin a project for
which you have no drawing without first making some
kind of a sketch.

Shop work is required in some schools for gradua-
tion and some credit is given those with good marks
wishing to take an engineering course.

To obtain the best results each boy should be fur-
nished with a bench suitable to his height and a sharp
set of individual tools. It is then his business to keep
them in this condition. Only selfish boys will use tools
improperly and dull them for the other fellow to
sharpen. It; is usually found that boys who do poor
work are satisfied to work with dull tools.

Any boy who is careless enough to saw into an iron
vise, pound with the point of his plane, chop with a
back saw, and bore holes and drive nails into his bench,
will not make a valuable man to any employer.

What would i contractor say if a man came lo hire
out with a stool under one arm and his tools under Ihe
other? But, how often do we see boys sitting on stools
trying to piano and saw, and also trying to do work
with a coat on! The first thing a boy does when getting
into a game that requires exercise is to throw off his
coat, so why not do the same in the shop?

Talking, whistling and other unnecessary noises are
not conducive to the best work. They are also annoy-
ing to others and distract their attention from their
work.

Do not use the try square for a hammer, or a chisel
for a screw driver, as others may wish to use the same
tool and do not enjoy working with a dull tool any
more than you do.

Never use a hammer on a chisel handle, or to drive
a piece through the dowel plate. The mallet should be
used for these purposes.

While all power machinery should be well guarded
in any shop to prevent accidents, it Is best when
machinery is in operation to keep at a safe distance.
Do not depend upon the other fellow to care for your
personal safety. You suffer the pain in case of accident.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

To avoid repetition, pages in the front of the hook
will be devoted to general information.

Lumber

Lumber comes in different conditions known as
dressed and undressed. If ordered undressed, it is just
as it comes from the saw, rough on both sides and
edges. If ordered S2S, (S meaning surfaced), both
sides will be surfaced. If ordered S4S, both sides and
edges will be surfaced or made smooth by the planer.
If it is desired to have it finished further, specify that
it is to be sanded on all sides and edges.

When ordering lumber, make out your bill as fol-
lows: First, give name of wood; second, number of
pieces; third, thickness; fourth, width; fifth, length;
and sixth, finish desired. For example:
Red Oak 2 Pes. %" x 41/8" x 3' S4S To be sanded

all sides
Bass Wood 1 Pc. Vz" x 10" x 10' Rough
Gum Wood 3 Pes. %" x 8" x 12' S2S

The most common woods used for home and school
bench work are bass wood, white pine, gum wood, red
and white oak, black walnut, mahogany, red wood, red
cedar and cypress. These are all easily worked and
take desirable finishes.

Yellow pine, spruce, hemlock, fir, cypress, birch and
maple are used in the building trades. Most of these
are coarse grained and split easily.

Hickory is straight grained and very elastic. It is
good for hammer handles, bows and arrows and other
models that must bend without breaking. Other kinds
of lumber may be more accessible in other localities.
Cypress is a wood that will withstand dampness and
is very good for plant boxes, etc., while gum and bass-
wood absorb moisture and warp, hence are not satis-
factory for outside use.

Composition, wall or beaver board can often be used
instead of lumber.

Personal Equipment

It is quite necessary that a woodworker protect his
clothing from dust, dirt, stain, paint, grease, oil, etc.,
by some manner of covering. Of course, different kinds
of work will require different kinds of dress. If pos-
sible, old clothing may be worn, in which case the
worker's body can easily assume any position and not
be encumbered by excess clothing. With most clothing
protectors it is not convenient to work in any other
than a standing position.

Plate 1 shows five boys differently attired. Tho
first is wearing an apron which is sufficient covering
for ordinary bench work; the second is equipped with
coveralls which make the best possible covering for
any kind of work, especially wood turning where dust,
shavings, oil and stain are likely to fly on the shirts,
shoulders and collar. It also protects the back of the

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT

Plate 1.

trousers, shirt, etc. The shop coat and cap, number
three, are very good as they give nearly as much
protection as the coveralls. The second and third
give protection to the worker who might back into a
painted article not yet dry. The short coat and a^)ron
are good hut they do not give the protection afforded
l>y the second and third. The short coat, number nve,
if used with overalls would he good, but when worn
alone gives no protection below the waist.

A light weight cloth cap will keep the hair out of
the wearer's eyes and also shade them. It will also
protect the hair from dust, dirt and oil. The boys in
the picture arc wearing paper caps given away for
advertising purposes.

Each worker should be provided with a lead pencil,
not too soft, a pocket knife and a two foot, four fold
rule. It is not good practice to borrow pencils.

A towel and some good soap should be kept in the
locker.

When on certain jobs of white wood to be varnished,
it is quite necessary to keep the hands clean.

To provide good working conditions the shop should
bo well lighted and not too warm. Sixty degrees is a
good temperature.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

Standards and Conventions

It is unfortunate that the schools of the country
have not established a standard set of conventions for
representing articles by drawings. Those who may use
conventions different from those used in the following
drawings will have no difficulty in understanding the
drawings if they will refer to the standards indicated
here.

After an investigation of the standards used in over
fifty of the largest and most important factories and
institutions in the country, and then compiling a book-
let which was submitted to these concerns for criticism,
it was found that these standards were most generally
used, and so were adopted by the drawing department
of the Detroit Public Schools.

The conventional lines are shown on Plate 2 the
exact weight, length and spacing they should be made
on a drawing, but on the drawings of the projects they
will appear lighter in weight due to the fact that they
were made the correct weight on the original drawing,
but when the cut was made, were reduced.

The illustrations with dimensions show the proper
method of dimensioning and indicating notes for dif-
ferent parts. It is proper to make the full or half
arrow on the leader lines.

Note that in the section the bolt is not cross hatched.
This method should be followed in drawing bolts, nails,

screws, etc., where sections are made to more clearly
indicate the construction of a part.

Perspective, isometric and cabinet sketches are used
to show the assembled model, and the relation of the
parts. These sketches picture the model better than
the mechanical drawing.

Construction Problems

Plate 3 illustrates the methods for making the
common layouts used in constructing the parts of the
following projects.

The quadrant is 90 degrees or one-quarter of a circle.

The semicircle is 180 degrees or one-half of a circle.

Other constructions show methods for locating cen-
ters, finding the lengths of arcs, dividing a line into a
certain number of equal parts, and others that will be
of use in making this series of models.

The hexagon and octagon are shapes that are com-
monly used for tabouret tops, lamp bases, etc.

It is often quite necessary to know how to lay out a
pentagon, star, oval, ellipse, and to make a polygon of
any number of sides desired.

Common Joints

Plate 4 is not intended to give all the different
kinds of joints in use, but merely shows the kinds most
commonly used and which will be used on the follow-
ing projects.

PLATE 2

Standards ''~° Conventions

CONVENTIONAL

LINES.

BORDER LINE

HEAVY

OBJECT LINE

riEDIUM

CENTER LINE

FINE

HIDDEN EDGE LINE HEDIUM
PROJECTION LINE FINE
CONSTRUCTION LINE FINE

DIMENSION LINE

\ ™^

oiiJi'

-REFERENCE
LINE

-LEADER

DIMENSIONS

OR -o?*--- ^ ^
DRIL

'-r

PERSPECTIVE

SKETCHES

ISOMETRIC

*\76\- THir

SECT ION

CABINET

PLATE 3

Ow|rtO«-*<vr . 90'

5£MiCiRCt.£ -ISO"

GEOMETRIC CONSTRUCTIONS.

To Fif^Q CehiTSf O"
Oiven Square

Draw Diagonal.^ AB
AnO CD li^TERSecTiOi^
O Is Ccnter Of Squar£

To 8istcT A Given Ai^glc

With O A3 >^ CENTea.
A/v£> A^vr Radius. PfiAW
Afic A8 From Points I
And ^ Ora^ Ancs Intcr-
SEOTINO J^T 3 L//V£ 03
BfsacTS The Ah/aue

To Dt^Aw An Afic Through
3 Poii-jt^ not In Ti-il
SAfiE Straight Line.

FROrj A A NO 8
DRA\N a ACS

In tersec T/nO
At I -aNP £_ANO
FROn & ANO c
Intlrsectino
L iNE 5 From
if, 3 Through
'ENTER Of Arc

At 3 AfjDt
I TmRouoi
-3 C/v£ O.

To OiviOE A Giv£.N
5TRAtGMT UNE.AS AD,
Into Any NunBtR Of Equa.
Pa r tj (5a y s)

S.c

From a
£>RAW
AC AT
, ^ ^ A/^v

A 7 a 9 ^ Angle.
Using
Af^t" Convenient Measure-

rltNT LAy Oe^ fiEQulREO

3RACE.5 At /, e. J, a, J. OfiAiN
S3 Lines Drawn From *?.
3. 3 AN0 I PAffALLE.L. To S3
OiviDf. AB Into 5 EqualP^rts

Atj Arc S&ing Given^
To FiNO A Straight
LinC Of Equal L£ivcth

Divide arc
AB Into
Equal.
D/visio/vs
^ SriALL

OlVISlONS WI1.L OlVC

Greater Accuracy Lay
Off Same Divisions Om
Straight Line Oiving
AC Equal To Arc A&

Inscribed Figure s

To PRAW A Hejcagon

Set Dividers
To LtNCTH
Of Desired
5iOE And
Describe
CiRCi-E From
A AND 3 With Same
Padius_ Draw Afics
Cutting Circle At /.3.3
Ano «? Connect These
Points For Pesireo
HEaagon

To Draw Ai^Octagon

Draw ABCO
Local To En
Closing SouAttE
F.^O CENTER O
FaoM A e. C
AND D, With Radius AG.
DRAW ARCS Cutting
Square at Points /, ^,
3, tf 3 £ 7 An/D 8 Connect
These Poults For
P€5lREO Octaoon

To Draw a Pentagon

Describe Re-
quired Circle
Find Center
Of Radius OA
At 0 FaoM
3 With Pad
Be Cut PiA AE At P
FRor-j C With Rap CP
Cut Circle At I and ^
From /and 2. With Same
Pad Get 3 ano ^3. I C a 3
■? Is RtouiREO Pentagon

To PfiAw A
Five Point eo STAfi

Di vide
PEQuiRed
Circle
Into Five.
Equal
Parts As For Pentagon
Connect Points as
Shown

Oval

On Dia AB Pes -
CRiOE A Circle
Frqi-j Center C
Draw CP^ Perren-
DiCuLAf* To A&
Df^AW APF A'^o &PE
From a Draw
ARC 8F Ano FfiOM 3 PRAw
ARC AE FROm P OftAw ARC
E F A<3BF E Is ReociREO Oval

To Dr.

AfpfiOKit^ATe

A& ->«(. CP
Are ffAJOR Anq
Minor Ares
Make Of ai^cOe
= To AB - CP

MAKE OH ANO

OC. = To ^ OF
Draw Fna . F03 EHt a^d
EGa From £ ano F Draw arcs
lO^ Afvo ^C3 From g a/-jd m

DRAn f:\RGS 2 0 3 AfJO I A^

To Inscribe A /Secular Polygon Of
vr Number Of Sides In A Given Ci»Ci.E

PiviDE OiA A 7 Into Same
No Of Parts As Polygon
Has Sides £xT£/vo Dia
CD Making CF ^ To ^ Of
Ct Through F and <
The Second Division On
A 7. PpAYv F C>, Cutting
Circumference At o
^ The Chof>o AC Is 0/v£

5ioe Of Thc Reqw^e-O /=t><_>-..o'/

PLATE 4

Common joints

MITCRJOINT

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

The procedure for laying out the Joints is not given
because there are many volumes in every library en-
tirely devoted to joinery. These should be consulted
freely for any information concerning joint construc-
tion which it may be necessary to have'. The Bruce
Publishing Company will at any time be glad to recom-
mend the best and latest volumes on manual arts work.

The dado joint is used in making book racks, settin;:^
tabouret tops into the legs, etc. The half lap joint is
used in constructing spreaders, making braces, etc.
This joint may also be made by making the cutouts
on the edges of the pieces as well as on the working
faces.

A dowel joint may be used in any kind of a top
where several pieces are to be used, or instead of the
mortise and tenon joint in joining a rail or a spreader
to a leg.

The mortise and tenon joint is most commonly used
in table and chair construction.

A butt or rabbet joint is made use of in box con-
struction, and a lap or miter joint in making picture or
other frames.

Tools

Teachers and others who work with boys are often
asked by boys and parents, especially around Christ-
mas, to makf a list of tools that might be recommended
for the home shop. Tools make excellent Christmas

and birthday gifts. The average boy Is not familiar
with tools, hence does not understand quality, pnd does
not know what to select if the choice is left to him.

Usually the person who does the buying knows little
more than the boy. The result is that the gift consists
of a nice looking tool box filled with cheap tools — some
that may never be used at all and others that were
selected more for looks than the practical use that
might be made of them.

Expensive tools are the cheapest in the end. The
best way to select a set is to inquire of experienced tool
workers as to what make is best and then select each
tool individually. By adding new tools now and then,
and taking good care of them, one soon acquires a com-
plete equipment without noticing the amount of money
invested.

The following is a list recommended for the home
shop:

1 Jack plane 14" 1 Combination hacksaw,

1 6" Try square ^ip and crosscut

1 Cross cut saw 20"— 10 1 Turning saw

point 1 Nail set

1 Rip saw 20"— 8 point 1 Pencil compass

1 Steel rule 12" 1 Hammer, Maydole 13

1 Carpenter's square 1 Spoke shave

1 Wood rasp 1 Jack knife

COMMONLY USED HARDWARE

1 Oil stone

1 'A" Chisel

1 1" Auger bit

1 Marking gauge

1 %" Auger bit

1 ,=c" Twist drill

1 >2" Auger bit

1 Ratchet bit brace

1 %" Auger bit

1 Rectangular scraper

1 V-i" Auger bit

1 Bit file

1 Rose countersink

1 Screwdriver

1 1" Chisel

1 Pair pliers

1 1/2" Chisel

1 Screwdriver bit

1 %" Chisel

1 3 sided saw file

Commonly Used Hardware

It has been the author's experience that few people
know the trade names for comniQn hardware and spe-
cial tools. Considerable time and parley would be
saved in the hardware store if the purchaser knew the
trade names of the articles he wished to buy.

One place where this should be taught every boy
is in the manual training class. For this reason sev-
-eral pages are here devoted to cuts of hardware and
special tools that are found .in most households and
are used in the average shop' some time or other. These
cuts, however, show only one article of each variety,
using the trade name to identify it. Many of the
articles can be purchased in a variety of sizes and
lengths.

Plate 5 showing special tools contains a tew that
will be found very convenient for doing certain jobs.
The rotary head glazier's hammer is used for driving

glazier's points. Two coping saw blades are shown, one
having a pin in each end for fastening, and the other
simply an eye turned. The cornering tool is for finish-
ing corners uniformly, and the tracing wheel is for
tracing patterns. Circular snips are used for cutting
circular pieces, and pinking irons for making fancy
scallops on edges of certain materials.

Plate G, cabinet trimmings, and Plate 7, hasp locks
and hinges, give (\\ule a complete selection of require-
ments for the amateur craftsman.

It is unfortunate that screw hooks and eyes are not
named according to their shape, but instead they are
listed by numbers which vary in different catalogs.
Plate 8.

Plate 9 shows many different articles in hardware
required in different parts of the household.

Shop Kinks and Information

Use a brad awl to bore for fine brads to prevent
splitting the piece.

Do not put water in hot lead— it will explode.

To do soldering the iron must first be tinned. File
the point to brighten the surfaces, then heat the Iron
and rub in a hole on a piece of salamoniac containing
a drop of solder. If properly tinned, the iron will
appear bright and shiny. The iron must be k"pl clean
and well tinned. A good fiux must bo used, and the
metal to be soldered must be thoroughly scraped and

PLATE

*^^^=:^::^==— =^ mZ

---liners' ^«a»=^ lettering brush

Glass Cutter Round Nose Side Cu t ting Pl iers

Bar Cabine t Cla mp

PLATE 6

CornirOrAnoleIrons

Mending Plate

Corner Brace

Cabinet trimmings brass boxcorncrs

UNFINISHED VJOOD KNOBS CHEST HANDLE

Glass KNOBS

y^ Box HANDLE

POL I SHED Brass Knob Drawer handle

BRASS SCREW KNOB

Card HOLDER

Drawer Pull

Porcelain Shutter Knob DropDrawcrPuu
Box Pull

,^.>T'

CARDHOLDERgPULL pi^u^^p/^Q FLUSH DRAWER PULL BOX PuLL

SPRING Or

Fric tion
Catch

PLATE 7

HASPS

Stlel Hinge 5l iOes

Hasps 'L ocks-hinces

Locks

Box Ca tch

DRAVJER LOCH

Suit Case LOCK

WARDROBE Lock

SUI TCASECA TCH£S

Hinges

BrassButt

Ball Tip loose fim Hinge

T Hinge

Friction Hinges

Strap Hinge
FANCYBOXH/NGES

PLATE 8

ScP£ M HrioK

^tmtm

SCREVi HQOK

,--J;

Scffcvi Eye

■' ^\\ I if^

BrassShouloerMook

Brass Cup Hook

HOOKS AND EYES

^(^^ — .^^-^

W/PC GATC HOOK ANOEyC

Ring And Staple razor Strop Hooh

Hitching Ring

WROUGHT GATEHOOKAnOSrAPLE

..-.J^' '^ Picture NooH \J-<^ \j?

Y - -- -— - WIRECEIUNOHOOK COATANDHATHCON

Hook audeve

Robe hook

Brass Screw Ring

mna

[fflHHJtii'O)

Kitchenhook

Co A tAnd Ha t Hook

Floor Hook

Robe Hook

PLATE 9

LincClcat

HARDWARE

GA5TEFIS

Springcotter

SHCLF BRACKET

Shelf Rest

DOOR Button Corruca ted Fas tener

Turn BUCKLE double eye Bolt

E.LB0V1 Catches

CRIP NECKSOCKF- t

Square Plate

Sliding Or Dome

\NA5HERS

VJROucH T Lock

Cast viasher

AwN/NG Pulleys

Screw Pulleys

OPEN INCL 05CD

Rivets

IRON RIVET

Tinners' Rivet

COPPER Rivets, Burrs

\ mi. ^

TUBULAR Rivet

Slotted Clmch Rivet

Rivet SetAndHeader

BITS AND DRILLS

sanded, and covered with the flux. To do good work
the joint must be heated to the melting point of the
solder.

Never use anything but a pencil for laying out a
bevel or a chamfer.

When planing a bevel or chamfer, hold the work in
a hand screw.

Use a washer cutter for making wooden wheels.

For wheels on small carts use wooden button molds.

When driving screws in end grain, first bore a hole
at right angles to the path of the screw and drive a
plug in the hole. The threads of the screw must pass
through the plug.

Use bank pins for joining toys as they can be ob-
tained in any length.

Before gluing two surfaces, first score with the
point of a knife diagonally across the surfaces. This
makes an opening for the glue to work into.

Always wipe off surplus glue with a damp cloth
before it sets.

When pulling nails with a hammer, place a block
between the work and the hammer head.

Place the coping saw blade in the frame with the
teeth pointing toward the handle. For best results use
Vs inch pin end blades.

Bits and Drills

Bits and drills, (Plate 10), are used for making
holes in different kinds of material. It seems tiultc
difficult for most boys to tell from the numbers on the
shank of the bit what size hole that particular bit will
bore. This is very ea.«:y if you will keep in mind the
following information.

Auger bits are numbered in sixteenths and are
graded in size from :i 16 to 20 IC in., or l'/, in. Twist
drills or drill bits are numbered in thirty-seconds and
range from 3 32 to 18/32 in., or 9, IG in. Drill points
are numbered in sixty-fourths and range from 4 G4, or
1 IG in., to 11/64 in.

Electricians' bits run in length from 18 to 24 In.,
and bore % to % in. Extensions from 20 to 30 in. can
be added to this length.

Expansive bits u.sually have two sets of cutters and
will bore % to 4 in. in diameter.

Forstner or center bits are used for boring in thin
wood that is liable to split. Forstner bits are used for
boring holes nearly through a piece where it Is neces-
sary that the spur should not come through on the
other side.

Countersinks are made in different varieties and cut
at different angles to countersink wide and shallow or
deep and narrow. A handle to fit the shank of a coun-

PLATK in

Bits ^^ Drills.

AuotR Bit

Smor-t OowtL Bit

CICIC'

£>ou9l£ 3t/vcrL£ ThRF.AP

TmREAQ Scpaw Point

POiN T GORir^O

GiMLCT

Or (l l Fop Wood

DfiiLL For M^t/^l Or Wood

T\NiS7 Drill FOR MaT^L

BRADS, SCREWS AND FASTENINGS

tersink, bit, drill or screwdriver is convenient whore
only a little work is to be done.

Bit flies are necessary for sharpening bits and arc
specially cut, having some sides left smooth. Washer
cutters are made for cutting washers and gaskets of
leather, rubber and other material, but may be used for
making wooden wheels. • Bit gages are made in dif-
ferent styles and are convenient as they stop the bit
cutting at a certain depth.

Many varieties of braces, hand drills and automatic
drills are made for holding bits, etc., for ordinary
drilling. Special types are also made to be used for
drilling where It is impossible or awkward lo use the
ordinary common or ratchet brace.

Brads, Screws and Fastenings

Most fastenings come in different sizes and lengths.
For the purpose of determining these sizes, certain
gages are made. Plate 11.

It is necessary to know the sizes of nails, screws,
bolts, etc., as holes of the proper size must be bored
for these fastenings, otherwise small parts will split
by having the fastenings forced into them.

Rusty screws, bolts and nuts are difficult to remove.
To remove screws, apply a red hot iron to the head of
the screw, then use the screwdriver while the screw is
still hot. For rusty bolts or nuts, apply kerosene and

allow it to stand until the rust has softened. Try to
start with a wrench, but if it does not start easily, rap
on one end with a hammer, or a hammer and cold
chisel. This will usually start a ruste<l nut or bolt
without twisting off the bolt.

It is ncHiessary to countersink for flat head screws
but not for round head screws.

Nails come in different sizes from two penny lo
sixty penny. Those larger than si.xty penny are known
as spikes. Following is a list of lengths:

2d 1" No. 15 wire lOd 3" No. 9 wire

3d I'/i" No. 14 wire 12d 314" No. 9 wire

4d V/z" No. 121/3 wire 16d 3'/i" No. 8 wire

5d 1%" No. 12 1/2 wire 20d 4" No. 6 wire

6d 2" No. 111/2 wire 30d 4^4" No. 5 wire

7d 2'A" No. 111/4 wire 40d 5" No. 4 ,wlre

8d 2V2" No. IQi/i wire 50d 51/2" No. 3 wire

9d 2%" No. 10 '/i wire 60d 6" No. 2 wire

Box nails run from 4d to lOd; casing and finishing
from 4d to Id; flooring from 8d to lOd, and brads
from % in. No. 20 to 3 in. No. 11. Screws run in vari-
ous sizes from 14 in. No. 0 to 4 in. No. 24.

Tacks, staples, lag screws, bolts and nuts come In
different lengths and gages. Screws, bolts, set screws,
nuts, etc., var>' according to the number of threads per
inch.

PLATE 11

Nails.

Brads. Screws ^^ Fastenings.

Bolts

^■"^

Common Wire.

pKI'Jt
OR

^MOQ-TH Box Screw Nail

(»

Casing

Finishing

Chair St^T

Flooring Brad |

Rubber Heap

Shingl e

CiOAR Box Brads Furniture

Screws

Flat head Oval head

FiouND Heap

Dowel '

'f ^=^"" y£^s&

Hand ff^/L

Cut

1 1

Gimp

Till
Uf

Carpet

Double Pointed

Escutcheon Pins

Staples

WROUGHT Steel

Fence

C~~. cz

Poultry- Net Blind

Machine

Stove Bolts

Flat Head Round Head

Iron Cap Screw

Iron Set Screw

Machine Screws

mms^ wms^ MMy£

Flat head Round Head Fillester head

SANDPAPER AND FINISH

Sandpaper and Finish

Sandpaper is made by sifting specially graded sand
or other abrasive on paper, the surface of which has
been covered with glue. It is used to wear down sur-
faces and to give a smooth finish. Tlie sand used is
graded from very fine, four naught (0000), to K. and
coarse from 1 to 3.

Always sandpaper with the grain of the wood. When
sanding rough wood it is quite convenient to place the
sandpaper on a l)lock. The block may he made of wood,
or better still, several thicknesses of beaver or wall
board glued together. A block of heavy felt is very
good as it will conform to irregular surfaces. The
sandpaper placed on the fingers alone should only be
used in rubbing down a finished surface. When start-
ing to sandpaper a piece of work, first use coarse paper
and finish with very fine. A few drops of oil applied to
the last piece used will produce good results.

To preserve wood and other materials from the
elements, and to add beauty, they must be treated in
some way. This is known to the trade as finish.

As It is quite difficult to apply finish without splash-
ing and spattering during the process of mixing and
applying, a special place for the work is necessary. If
the work is done at the bench, the bench top should be
covered with papers, for it is only a very careless

person who will mar the top of his work bench wllli
paint, stain or varnish.

It is not always convenient to wear gloves to pro-
tect the hands from the stain, but if soap is forced
under the nails by scratching on the bar before begin-
ning the work, the nails will be kept clean. If the
nails are clean, turpentine, gasoline or soap and hot
water will put the hands in good condition. By using
waxed paper, such as comes wrapped about bread, to
hold rubbing materials, the hands will be protected.

The nature of tlie object, the use to be made of it
and where it will be placed or used, will determine the
kind and degree of finish required.

Finish

The article may be painted, enameled, stained, shel-
laced, varnished, oiled, waxed, etc., but the number of
coats or polish necessary will depend upon the require-
ments of the object.

Tlie spreading of paint and enamel, and applying a
rubbed or a French polish, requires practice. For In-
formation on the mixing, application and the amount
of finish, paint catalogs or books on finish should be
consulted. Free books can be obtained at most paint
stores, and there are many books at the public library.

Most models are finished by first preparing the sur-
face with a plane and sandpaper.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

The most simple finish is the oil finish, produced by
the application of boiled linseed oil cut with a little
turpentine.

Good results have been obtained by using lor
mahogany, Acme Dark Mahogany No. 36, Acme Walnut
No. 35. and Bridgeport R Y Golden Oak Stain. A good
walnut or oak stain can be made by mixing the follow-
ing— 3 parts lamp black ground in oil; 2 parts boiled
oil; 1 part burnt umber, and G parts turpentine.

If provided with cans of the following paint — white,
black, red, yellow and blue — any color can be produced.
For example, red and yellow make orange; yellow and
blue make green, and red and blue make violet. By
adding white to any of these colors a tint of that color
may be obtained. For example, green plus white gives
light green.

Do not paint one color joining another until the
first has dried. If you do they will run together.

Always apply shellac to knots before giving the
priming coat of paint.

Show card colors dry quickly, and if covered with a
quick drying white varnish arc excellent for decorating
toys.

Paint, striping and lettering brushes should not be
left to harden. Wash out in gasoline or gold dust and
hot water. If set away, see that the bristles of the
brushes are covered with water, oil or kerosene.

Laying-Out Tools

To do good work easily and rapidly, a workman, be
he man or boy, must have tools and they should be good
ones. Too often one sees a worker using tools for pur-
poses for which they were never intended.

Rules come in quite a variety of forms but those
illustrated are used more than any others. The one
foot steel rule is very convenient. Because of its thin-
ness, measurements can be laid off along its edge very
accurately. The two foot, four,fold rule folds com-
pactly and can be carried in the pocket.

Work that does not require great accuracy may be
marked out with a medium grade pencil, the point of
which should be sharp. Where great accuracy is re-
quired as in the laying out of joints, a sharp pointed
knife is essential. The sloyd knife is convenient but
the jack knife can be carried in the pocket and will
answer all purposes.

The try square is essential for testing for square-
ness, that is, to see if adjacent sides are at right angles
to each other. It is also used for laying out lines
drawn across the grain and for testing evenness of
surfaces. Do not use it as a hammer. The framing
square is larger and is used for work that is too large
for the try square.

The bevel is similar to the tr>' square. Unlike It,
however, it has a movable blade that can be fastened in

TLATF. 12

Laying-Out Iools.

/■Ft. Stcel Rule.

FR/>niNa 3ou/if>c

rnm

miiD

|III|III|III|III|IIIIIMIIIIIIII|III|

i-uiuiqujjii

TiBWililililitmiiliTirtfflitiliiiltitiW

*?) Wk

Sloyd Knife

Jack Knife

Tffv- Souaoe

Blade
Beam

Diviocas

Sfua

Madking CaC£

■ Thumb ScKeyv

HtAO

Beam lcos

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

any position. It is us<'(l lor laying out and testing
angles.

The marking gage is used lor laying out lines along
the grain of a piece of wood. The head moves along
the beam and can be fastened by the thumb screw at
any distance from the spur. As received from the
factory, the spur is set accurately with reference to the
graduations on the beam, but from use and sharpening
it will not remain so. To insure accuracy, the rule
should be used to check each setting. It is advisable
in school shops to plane off the graduations and require
the students to measure the setting.

To lay out arcs and circles the pencil compass and
dividers are used. Both legs of the dividers are metal
while one leg of the compass holds a lead or compass.
The compass can generally be used but for more accu-
rate work the dividers are necessary. Plate 12.

Saws

A saw has a definite use that no other cutting tool
can be put to and accomplish the work as well.

Saws are used for cutting many kinds of material,
but the ones considered here are for wood only. They
are of two general classes, crosscut and rip. The cross-
cut is used for cutting across the grain ami the rip saw
with the grain.

In order to accomplish the different cutting, it is
necessary to have teeth of- special shapes. Plate 13. In

Pigs. 1 and 2 we see the teeth of a crosscut saw from
two positions. It will be seen from these figures that the
edges of the teeth are similar to a series of knife points,
and when forced across the grain the fibers are cut off.
Note also that the points are bent alternately to the
right and left. The bending of the teeth is called set-
ting. Pig, 5. Note Pig. 3. As the blade of the saw is
forced through the wood a saw kerf or cut must be left
wider than the thickness of the blade. Otherwise the
saw will bind and stick in the wood. The parts cut off
called sawdust are carried out of the kerf by the motion
of the saw.

The rip saw teeth have a different action to perform,
so are of a different shape. The rip saw cuts with the
grain instead of across it. The cutting action is quite
different. It might be compared to the cutting action
of a chisel.

Compare the shapes of the teeth in Fig. 2 and Pig. 8.
Examine Pig. 7 carefully as it shows the cutting action.

Pig. 9 shows a handsaw as generally referred to.
It may be cross or rip. The saw shown in Pig. 10 is
also a handsaw but is referred to as a back saw. The
metal strip across the back stiffens it for accurate work.

Planes

The plane is one of the most important tools used in
wood work. It is the most complicated and requires

PLATE K!

K/ftV Of CUTTiNG

Edge Of Cf^osscur

3^W FFiOM ^ao¥£

Cf^OSSCUT 7e£TM,

Showing BtvEu /^f^o
3h^pe . Note How
Th£.\^ ^RE. Filed.

5aws.

H^ND^^w ' (CfiasscuT Or ^/f>).

C^OSS Sec TION SHOW/fVG

Hoyv Cf^osscuT Teeth Operate
iN Cutting.

Qack Saw.

Looking Down On Back
Of Sav\/ Showing Set Of Teeth.

View Of Cutting
£PGE Of Rip Saw
FFiOt^ Aeo¥£ Ano

^T j^N AA^OLE.

V^IEW 3HOtVINC

^CTio/v Of Rip
S^w Teeth.

Rip Saw Heth
Showing Shape , -
Filed Straight

ACAOSS.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

much skill to use it ijropiTly and to keep it in good
condition for use.

Old style planes were made of wood and adjusted by
striking with a hammer. It was also necessary to joint
the face from time to time.

There are many kinds of planes designed for many
purposes but the principle of their operation is the
same as the bench planes shown in Plate 14. The
planes which are most commonly in use are the jack,
smooth, jointer and block planes. Should it be possible
to have only one plane in your equipment, let it be the
Jack plane. Buy extra blades for it and sharpen them
to shapes to take the place of the other planes.

The use of these different planes may be described
as follows: The jack plane is used for removing stock
in rather large quantities, that is, for making the first
or roughing cuts. It is about 15 in. long. The jointer
is from 20 to 26 in. long and is used to straighten sur-
faces. Being quite long it will only cut on the high
spots, thereby gradually bringing an uneven surface to
one that is true. The smooth plane is 9 or 10 in. long
and used only for smoothing surfaces. It can be used
on irregular surfaces on account of the shortness of
the bed. The block plane is designed for use on end
grain, that is, at right angles to the general direction
of the grain.

The construction of the planes is shown by a sec-
tional view showing all the parts in position, and the

smaller parts are shown separately. The plane iron and
plane iron cap, when fastened together, are known as
the double plane iron. For ordinary work the cap
should not be set farther than -{g in. from the edge of
the plane iron. For cross grained wood make the dis-
tance less.

The lever cap holds the plane iron in position in the
plane proper. Note the cam action when the small
lever is forced down into position. The lever cap screw
regulates the amount of pressure exerted on the plane
iron.

Turning the adjusting nut forces the plane iron in
or out according to the amount of shaving it is desired
to cut. The lateral adjusting lever adjusts the plane
iron across the throat or mouth of the plane so the
shaving will be even in thickness throughout its width.

Planing and Scoring Rules

First Method

1 Plane broad surface.

Mark 1

2 Plane edge. Mark 2

Cut to length. Square
other end. Mark 6

Second Method

Gage width. Plane other 1 Plane broad surface.

edge. Mark 3
Gage thickness.

Mark 4
Square one end.

Mark 1
Plane. 2 Plane edge. Mark 2

3 Plane one end square.
Mark 5 Mark 3

PLATE 14

Planes.

L'ATCRAl. ^OJUJTfMi LC¥Cf*

■SdCT,0/\i^L l//fkV O^ ^LAI^E.

U/KaNE. HANOLt 46FfK>0 AOjust-
/?- Knob ff^C SCA£W

^b-HANOce &OL.T 41 hanole a^d

I4'KnOG ' KfsiOO 30LT

i5'Plane 46'^f9oo Adjust-

HA/>iOLt 3c/few INO PLATe.

ib-^ANC Bottom 49- f^fK>o adjust-

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

4 Gage thickness. Plane. 6 Gage width. Plane edge.

Mark 4 Mark 6

5 Cut to length. Piano end.

Mark 5

Scoring Rules

1 Hold beam on 2, draw 2 Hold beam on 1, draw

across 1. across 2.

3 Hold beam on 1, draw 4 Hold beam on 2, draw

across 3. across 4.

To get a piece of wood to certain definite dimen-
sions, it is necessary that the work be done in a
systematic manner. To work otherwise will not obtain
desired results.

Select the better broad face and plane smooth and
true. Plate 15. Test as Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, also diago-
nally, and lay on a flat surface to test for wind. It
should lay flat and not rock. This is called the -work-
ing face and should be marked 1. It is from this face
that all future measuring should be done and on it
layouts should be made.

Next plane one edge straight and square with sur-
face number one. To test for straightness hold blade
of the try square lengthwise on the edge. For square-
ness, hold the beam of the square against surface num-

ber one with the blade extending across the edge as in
Fig. 3. Mark the edge 2.

Now set the marking gage to the width of the fin-
ished piece, and with the head resting against surface
number 2 gage a line the entire length of the piece on
surface number one. Plane to line, test as for side 2
and mark number 3.

The fourth step is to reduce to thickness. Gage on
surfaces 2 and 3 the thickness from 1. Plane off sur-
plus stock and mark number 4.

One end should now be sawed. Follow the scor-
ing rules. Hold the beam of the try square against
surface number 2 with the blade extending across num-
ber 1. With a knife score a line across this surface.
Next, holding the beam against the surface number 1,
score across 2 and then 3. Then, holding the beam on
surface number 2, score across 4. If your work is accu-
rate the lines will meet so as to be continuous around
the piece. Saw to line.

Measure the desired length, score around the piece
and saw as for the first end.

While the first method is generally used, another
method that will give very excellent results to begin-
ners is indicated above.

PLATE 15

Steps In Planing.

Jt£P

_f_- Plane Oi^e Broad SufiFAce
SnooTH And True Test ^s Snot/^N
In Fio I AND Fic 2. A Third Test
Is Across D/aoonals. Hark One.

Fio. I.

Step ^ - Plane One £oo£
Stra/oht, And Square W/th
One. Hold Beam Of .Square
Against One, Blade Across
Two. See Fig- 3. Mark Two.

Step 3 — Oaoe Foq \A/iotm.
Set Head Against Tivo
A/vo Gace On One. Plane
To Line . See Fig. 4. Mark 3.

Step d— Cage For Thickness.
Set Head Against One And
Cage On Two And Three. Plane
To Line . Mark a.

One

Fig. 4.

Step S — Saw One End. Set
BEAn Of Square' Against Two
And Scope Across One, Fig. 5.
Next Set Beam Against One
And Score ^Across TWo And
Three , Fig. 6. Score Across Four
With Beai~> On Two, Then Saw.

Step 6 — /Measure For
Length. Score Acrqss
Surfaces ■^s In Step 5
And Saw To Length.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

WORK BENCH

This liench cun he niatlc liy the average boy. The vise
screw can be purchaser] at any hanlware stiire for (10 cents.
A metal bench stop will be found convenient. The lumber
need not be any partlcuhir kind, some of the dimensions may
be changed to suit lumber you have on hand.

The legs are of the proper length for the average 12 or
14 year old boy, l)ut may be made longer to suit conditions.

After getting the legs to the required size and shape, get
out parts I and braces C, parts J and D, and the cross
pieces which support the shelf. When these are cut to size,
they may be assembled. The shelf may next be cut and fas-
tened to the supports. l*^or the top, get liard wood, cut to
size, and attadi to the frame, togetlier with the back apron E.

I'arts B anil F will also give better service if nunic of
hard wood. B Is made of four pieces held together with
screws. F should be fitted to B before the pieces making up
B are finally assembled. Fasten F to A, which should be
made of hard wood. Hold the assembled pieces, F and A,
in jjroper position on D and mark on the latter the location
for the hole for the vise screw. Bore the required hole, then
locate the petition of B underneath the top and fasten.

A vise handle can be made from a piece of broom handle.
Bore two small holes through the haniUe near each enil, place
in position in the vise screw, and secure by driving pegs
through the holes.

The bench may be left natural, or it may be painted or
oiled as desired.

PLATE 16

-^H,

Front Apron

^tv

-ao-

-■ — r-

^7|

Rear Apron

-ao-

•WM\

* — T

^-z/-

-</o-

I// -^ \\l J

Work Bench

. T"r>''^,!"^.

'^ LJJ

1-4^

^H r-

13'-

Hake Four

■ir

Make Four

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

COMBINATION BENCH HOOK

Accuntc work Is absolutely neci^ssary. Evory piece nuist
1)0 ir.adt' to exact lUmenslons, all comers must be perfectly
square, and the various pieces must be located accurately with
reference to each other.

Hard wood is the best material to use. (Jet out ;ill
I)iocos to the dimensions indicated.

First assemble miter box, observing directions on the
drawing concerning location of screws. We now have a prob-
lem of laying out an angle of 45 degrees. The following
method will be found practical and not hard to understand :
On the bottom of box lay out very accurately a square of a
size equal to width of box, commencing at a point IVs" from
the end. Carry the locations of corners thus established, by
means of a try sqtmre, across sides of box to the upper edges.
Saw from corner to corner very carefully. The result should
be an accurate miter.

Next fasten parts C and D together. Part B may next
be fastened in place, and finally the miter box should be fas-
tened to its position on C

Tart A should be cut so the end grain of the piece will
be next to end of miter box. As the length of a piece of
wood is always measured lengthwise of the grain, you will
have, in this case, a piece wider than it is long. Fasten A
in position so the space between it and the miter box will be
cquiil to the thickness of a saw blade.

Finally, bore the hole for hanging bench hooli up out of
the way.

The miter box is not large, but is large enough for a
great many uses. It is used for sawing at angles of 45 de-
grees, such as the joints for a picture frame.

As a bench hook, the device is used for sawing the ends
of boards square. Lay flat on bench, as shown ia sketch.
Place board against miter box. The sawing is done in the
space between miter box and part A.

To use as a shooting board, reverse position ;unl turn
over. Place stock against B, turn plane on side resting on the
ledge. By permitting stock to extend l>eyond B Jilightly, anu
moving plane forward and backward on the ledge, very
accurate work can be done.

PLATE 17

COTOINBrTION BBNCHr q'QOK.

C.4 I

V^rGP

-/5-

•9

?e2^Jl

JJ5L^

i(Ut

^-i«0

<wT

ii.._Ji

""^M Parts fo be fasfened together wi/h scretvs.
Locate so screv^s \^i/l not come /n sav\/
Kerts. Countersink a/ 1 ho/e^ tve//.

-^i

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TOY PIG

The first step Is to lay out your pattern for the various
parts. Use thin cardboard for this. Squares should bo laid
out as showu in the drawing and the outline traced in so tlie
lines touch the squares in the same places thoy do In the
drawing. When you are satisfied with your outlines, cut to
shai'e with a pair of sharp shears.

The next step is to lay the patterns on the wood fruin
which the pig is to lie made, then trace ari.uud them. Th;^
hardist part will be the cutting to shape, especially the body.
A band saw is the best tool for this, but as most boys will
not have one available, the cutting will have to be done with
a turning saw, or if you are very, very careful, you may be
able In use a coping saw, though the stoclt is almost too heavy
for this tool.

Cut the various parts to shape and bore holes for thp
strews. Great care must lie taken to see that holes on oppo-
site sides of the pieces are exactly in linn with each other.
Next sand all the pj.its and then assemble.

At this point make your measurements for the grooves

in the cart. No measurements are given for the reason that
the distance between the l"gs might vary. If the toy is lirst
assembled and the measurements then taken from it, iess
difficulty will be encountered.

The painting of the toy can best be accomplished by
taking it apart and working up each piece sepai-ately. Tie a
piece of string to each part, then paint and hang up to dry.
The color scheme as shown on the drawing is to paint the
body white and spot it black. You might paint the body black
and spot it, white, or red and black may be used. Just paint
it to suit yourself, but be sure your scheme will look like
a pig.

While these parts are drying the cart may be made.
The wheeLs should be carefully laid out and cut to shape.
Other than these, the cart will cause little tronl)Ie. Taint
the cart red.

Use washers between all movaldc parts. Thi". will make
th^m operate more easily and also prevent the marring of the
toy by rubbing.

PLATE 18

M^H£ O/Vf

Toy Pic

♦-

(

— -

■Im

r
a

'r Indicates Location
Of Holcs For Scf>ews

Paint White — Spot BuAct^

■^tol I Place WyiSHEns

P^iNT Cart ficD

^— ^^ /■

<^'~^^ / \ ^

Z 5 t ^ I

t t *

\^ ^ i "

S ^ I ±

^v J > / V ^

^. V ^,- t i4-

\ I K \

S 13 xi».

^s IS J^

31 3 _,

Make Two Of £ach ^

Between Movable Part^

Fasten Ears And
Legj To Body With

R.H. Screws. Th^-^^ D/mensions To
Suit Finished Toy

ifytr

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CHILD'S MORRIS CHAIR

One very important thing to remembiT in making this
chair is that ail jiieces must be gotten out witli their ends
perfectly square.

The joints are fastened in two different ways. Be sure
you thoroughly understand each ni( thod before you proceed.
Notice the one where holes are bored part way through one
member of joint. As the depth of these will depend upon the
width of stock, calculate very carefully how far you should
bore. As the hole in the other member of joint will run
parallel with the grain, some means must be provided to give
the screw a better grip than it would have In just the end
grain. This is accomplished by placing dowels in such a
position that the screw will pass through them, thus getting
a good grip crosswise of the grain in the dowel. These dowels
are also added to the other form of joints as a means of
increasing their strength. Study the details of the Joints
thoroughly to insure a proper understanding of their use.

When all joints are made and fitted, assemble with the
proper screws, then ftt and fasten bottom slats in place. Good

work on this will add a great deal of strength to the chair.
Measurements for slats are to be made after chair Is
assembled.

The holes In the wood, made by boring for screws, should
l)e filled by means of dowels or plugs. Whichever method is
used, it is important that the wood from which they are
made should match the wood in the chair.

In fastening arms to frame, care should be taken to have
them the same distance apart throughout their length. Be
sure your chair frame is perfectly square before back is fas-
tened in place. If it is not, the back may not set properly.
Should it be slightly out of square, it nuiy be sprung enough
to true it up, by adjusting the slats. The back is fastened
to the rail by hinges, and is held in the desired position by
means of a bar which fits In slots cut in the amis.

A cushion can be made if you secure the help of your
mother or sister. Paint or stain the chair according to the
lumber you have made it from.

PLATE 19

ri's'''

U-\

'Ti'

Pluo Or Dov/tu

Child's Morris Chair

3oR£ I Oecp*

e F.HD.3cfi£w

\V|^1W3

P^=^^3|{ ___

J Drill

To Avoid Cor^FusioN . Front
ir^i '^NO Top Viev^s Show Bac^^
" I /v Vertical Position

Detail Of All
Joints Line (E)

■A Drill

e fiHO

Screw

Joint Betwcln
Front Legs And
1h 5iot Rails, And
^ ti --■- -.\ &ACK Leos

Dowel —

T^ FH6 Screws
^ Plugs

'val Method
Of Fastening

Wfi'" ARtts To Leoj

Acciya^TE Fitting
Ano Fastening Of
Seat Slats Will
Add Strength To
The Chair

This Young Man Is
Quite Pleased With
The Chakir He has
Made For his Little

5l STtR

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CUTTING BOARD

The hoard can he mailp of soft or hard wood, though, of
course, the latter will give niueh better service. liirch or
maple are very good woods for the purpose.

The first thing to do will be to square up your board to
the overall dimensions. In addition to the working drawing,
there are four drawings showing the steps to follow in laying
out the board. Figure 1 .shows the board after it has been
squared to the proper dimensions, and with a center line
extending the length of the piece. Figure 2 shows line drawn
on each siile of the center line and other lines at right angles
to the edge of the board. The dimensions for the location of
these lines should he determined from the working drawing.
Figure S shows the two arcs drawn which give the outlines of
the greater part of the handle. Figure 4 shows arcs drawn
at the corners, and the centers for the one-inch holes located.

The piece Is now ready to cut to shape. Bore the one-inch
holes at the points indicated, also the %" hole in the handle.

In boring holes, the boring should proceed until the spur
shows through on the reverse side, when the bit should be
starte<l from that side and the boring finished. Xext saw the
outline of the handle and round the corners to the arcs drawn.

As noted on the drawing, all edges should be broken.
This may be done by slightly planing off the corners and finish-
ing with sandpaper, or it may be done with a spoke shave.
Making the edges oval shape by means of the spoke shave
gives a very good finish to them and may be tried if desired.
This shape is not shown in the drawing, as the board with
the edges just broken answers the purpose very well and
causes less work to make.

No finish is required for this board. Some people think
they add greatly to the board by oiling It, but this .-should not
be done owing to the food absorbing the oil when the board
is in use.

PLATE 20

3t£Ps In Layino Out
After Board Is SouAaco Up
Fig I

Fig. 3

Cutting BOjArd.

Fio e

'■m

-n

—Material. —

Hard, Closc
Grained Wooo

Break
All £oo£S

-Ji

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TOY CANNON

This •auiiou can be luadf wlthimt the soUliiTs, but it
will bo inort.' intert'stiug if the soldiers are made to shuot
down.

Begin work on part A. After laying out, the stock can
bo cut to shape with a back saw, smoothed up a bit with i
«hii-el and rini>hed with sandpaper.

Make B the Itarrel, and note the chamfers only run part
way down the barrel. (Ireat care must be taken to bore the
h.ile straight. Locate the centers on both ends by drawing
diagonals, then bore half way from each end.

Next make the axle E and then the wheels. Lay them
out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring rather deeply at
the circumference. This will give a good line to work to. Re-
move stock with coping saw and linish with spoke shave, file
and sandpajier. Bore holes at center.

Whittle out the jiUinger and bore a hole for the rubber
liand. On |)art B, as indicated, a tack is driven on each side

over which to loop the rubber band running through the
handle of the plunger. The tacks must not extend Into tho
hole in B, or the plunger will not work freely.

Assemble the parts, using brads and glue to hold them

together.

Of course there should be some ammunition. For this
use small round sticks about two inches long, of a diameter
that will permit them to fit loosely in the barrel.

There should be something to shoot at, too. A plan for
a soldier is shown and there should be at least six of them
made. The soldiers are cut from cardboard and tacked or
glued to blocks of wood to make them stand.

Paint the soldiers, using several colors to make them
attractive. Also paint the cannon. It is suggested that black
be used for parts A, B and E, and red for parts C and !>. .

PLATE 21

Small tack each
S/de to hold rubber band

Toy Cannon.

3oJdier - make s/x

noke
one

iiir

Hake

(/to.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BATH ROOM CUP HOLDER

This is a littlo convi'nienco that muthiT wili appreciate,
as it looks very untidy to have a drinlting glass or cup ;;pttiDg
around with no place for it.

The dtslgn shows (he shape of the holder octagonal.
This can bo varied if it is desired to do so. For Instance, it
might be made round, or hexagonal in shape. There is also
plenty of room for an expression fif your own ideas in the
design of the back piece.

Very little material will l)e required for this holder. AI
most any kind of wood will be suital>le for use, as no doubt
It win be painted.

If you decide to change the design, make your drawing.;
before you start work. The work on the back piece will
be very easy, the other two parts requiring more care. The
bracket supporting the octagonal piece should be laid out by
the square method, as no compass curves are used. A coping

saw can l)e \isim1 in;- sawing the bracket, but it will have to
bo used carefully, as the stock is rather thick for such a
i^niall saw.

It is suggested that the part fur the bolder be laid out
but not cut to shape until after the hole is bored. An ex-
pansive bit will be necessary to do the best work, though It
is possible to do a fairly good job with a gouge. In boring,
bold the stock in the vise crosswise of the grain, otherwise
the large bit will split the stock. The bottom of the hole
will have to be smoothed with a chisel or gouge and sand-
paper. After boring the hole the outside should be worked
to shape. Bore required holes for fastening together, sand-
paper well, then assemble. No sizes are specified for the
screws. Use only heavy enough to do the work. Round-
head screws will, of course, look better for fastening the holder
to the wall. Paint to suit the woodwork or wall to which
it is to be fastened.

PLATE 23

Fort ReauineD OcT^ao^/.

Lay Out Squ/>»c
Of ReauiReD S/z£ ^s
ABCO FiAjo CCNTCK O
By D//^aofj/»L-3 FfiOM
Cof*Nens A, 3. C -^/v^ O.
With R/^oius £9<jml
To 2 Of a D/y^ao/\f^t-,

F As AO, S^/NO AAC3

Loc^T/A/a O, H, I ,J, K ,
CoNNtcT Thcsi PoinTa

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

SKATE SHARPENER

It is very hard for an amateur to holil the Hie iu the
proper position when sharpening sliatcs. This sliatc sharpener
will mcehanienlly hold the face of the file parallel to the face
of the skate runner.

Of course there are different ways of sharpening skates.
If you wish them hollow ground this .sharpener will cot do.
Take them to an expert skate sharpener and he will hollow
grind them with an emery wheel.

The base of the sharpeil<'r is %".\2i/."xll" and may lie
made of soft wood, but the two top pieces should be maile of
oak, maple, birch or other hard wood. These parts receive
considerable wear.

Select the file you expect to use iu the sharpener and
make two thin pieces the thickness of the file. They are to
be bradded to the base one on each side of the file.

Now make the two pieces of hardwood, to be fastened
over the other pieces and part of the lilo. A space should be
loft between these i)ieces just Wide enough to allow the skate
runner to pass through freely. Use 1" flat-head screws t"
fasten these pieces. When the pieces wear bore new holes and
set them closer together.

To use the sharpener clamp the skate in a vi^e and push
the file across the skate, holding it as firmly as possible. The
sharpener should not rock sideways.

Test for sharpness by holding .skati's in the same position
as blades of a pair of shears. If sharp, they should cut tissue
paper when worked as shears.

A sharp skate will not slew sideways. Notches filed
lengthwise in the end of the blade at the heel will aid iu
making a quick stop which is necessary when playing hockey.

PLATE 23

Skate Sharpener.

/? - THicHfl/ess Of Sha te
B Thickness Of Filf

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

STEAM ENGINE

Experimenting wltli this engine will be great sport, but
do not make the mistake that one boy did and think it un-
necessary to have a safety valve or make weight too heavy.

Make platform A and nail cleats B to it ; also C and D,
and fasten to A, but use screws Instead of nails.

Find an old hlcj'cle pump for a cylinder. Bore a hole
in the handle end. File off finish and solder a piece of brass
tulie to the end at right angles. The tube also has a hole
bored In it, making a passage from the tube into the pump.

Flatten out the end of the plunger rod from the pump.
This Is to be the piston rod. Bore hole in flattened part for
fastening to tlie connecting rod. Remove plunger from piston
rod and cast a lead piston on It, as at M. Make mold Ijy
boring hole in piece of wood. Hold rod in hole and pour hot
lead around it. File piston to fit cylinder. It must be well
fitted or steam will escape past it. Cast a piston on a piece
ot stiff wire to fit the tube — this is part L.

Cut a piece of tin and solder to cylinder. Carve out a
place for the cylinder in E. Fasten cylinder to E by screws
driven through the tin. Get a shaft and tube to fit it for a
bearing as at N. File ends of shaft square to fit holes made
in C), II and O. Solder tin to tube to fasten it to E.

Make fly wheel of heavy wood and bore holes for lead
to add weight. Make parts F, J and I. I is to keep J from
rubbing on fly wheel and H is a pulley for connecting engine
to other mechanism.

Part K is made of hard wood and connected to O with
a sciew. Assemble all parts. Oil movable parts. Adjust
length of wire on small piston or valve so when cylinder
piston is at the end of its stroke the port hole will be open
for the steam to act against the piston. As the cylinder
piston is forced out the valve piston runs past the port, allow-
ing the exhaust to pass out of the tul>e. Make boiler from
any large can and heat on a kitchen stove.

PLATE 24

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TOY ELEPHANT

The ek'phnDt is a vtT.v attractive toy auil tlae cart is a
very important ijart of it, l)ecause on it .Mr. Elcpliant can do
ail sorts of triclis.

.\U parts of the elephaut will have to he .cut out with
a turning or coijing saw. The turning saw is liftrder to use
but will he found more satisfactory on the thick wood.

Lay out your patterns on cardljoard Iiy method indicated
in the drawing. Transfer them to the wood from which the
toy Is to be mrale, being Especially careful that all the holes'
for the screws are accui-atelj located. It is quite important
that the holes in the body be located exactly opposite each
other. Bore holes, then saw to shape and sand well.

Before painting, the parts should all be assembled and
tested to see that they are all properly related to each other.

.\ii\ nf..-ssary alterations should be nulde at this time. Place
washers liotween movable parts and take measurements for
the grooves in the cart.

Make the cart and fit the feet to the grooves. The wheels
can be sawed out with the coping saw, or wooden button
molds can be used. Wooden button mollis make good wheels,
as they are nicely sanded and have holes bored for the screws.

■ In painting, try to get a color that looks like an elephant.
A dirt.v or muddy gray is the nearest I can descril)e it. I'aint
the toes black, the tU5ks white, the eyes white with a little
black around them. Put a bit of red around the mouth and
in the back of the eye. The car should be painted entirely
red. All parts should be painted separately, so it will be
necessary to take the toy apart to do this.

PLATE 25

Cut Out As Indicated,
For 'PtiL

Toy Elephant

* This Indicates Location
Of Holcs Fon Scortvs

Paint dooy A Huoor CfiAy.

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Jjj

•1 i~r-rT 1 1 1

~i^r Ti r

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k-)-Nl

(

♦: i)

XT,

ill

/, \\

i' 1 V ~ ^

Use A 1^- 6 F.H. /^^^g j-^gji.

tiAHE Two For Tail, And Dimensions To Suit

I3 P>l-I For Legs Fii^ished Toy
And E/>RS

Make. Two

Make Two

' 1

WVyij/z/ra

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

FEEDING BIRD

This toy can be ninde from pieces of cigar l)ox or other
scrap thin luuil)er.

Begin liy making the liottom, or part A. Square the
piece up niceiy and with a pencil compass and freehand curve
lay out acconling to the drawing. Cut to lino with a coping
saw and finish edges with sandpaper. Bore holes on center
line for -string.

Make B and fasten to A with cigar box nails. Use a
brad awl to make holes for the nails so the piece will not
split. Part C Is a pill box cover. It is to be fastened to A
wit)! a tack, but should not be placed till after the toy Is
painted.

Two pieces like part D are needed. Lay out from a
center line. Bore liolcs with brad awl for brads to hold the
head and tail. Make tail E and head F, after which the
Irregular part G Is required to assemble the bird. Glue G
In place between parts D. These paits may be braddcd If very
fine brads are used. Drive a staple and screw hook In the
bird as indicated.

Tie a piece of thread or cord in holes made In neck and
tall and thread through holes In A, which should be counter-
sunk to receive knots. Drive staple in A and screw hook
In B.

Loop an ordinary rubber band once or twice, ds neces-
sary, around hooks In B and top of body. Adjust and knot
cord threaded through holes in A. The bird is held In posi-
tion lietween these strings and the rubber band.

Tie a piece of cord to staple In bottom of body and thread
through staple in A. Hold A by handle In left hand and
pull oord, making the bird lower his head and tail as if
eating.

Colors are suggested for decorating the toy on the draw-
ing, but other combinations may be used. Show card water
colors make good paint for this toy. To produce a luster
they should be covered by a quick-drying white varnish.

PLATE 26

Feeding Bird

P/iRT A

Part B

h 4-'

-t1

Part F

—

^1^

u —

— 2 —

— ^..

1 1 1 ;::i-i^

G^een

Pulltlei-c

1 — " — i'^

♦

^%^

p '"

'■Z

♦ M

)^^

HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS

FLYING PROPELLER

This tuy Is one boys like to make because ouo ran bo
made in a short time.

Tilt' materials needed for making the toy are a piece of
broom handle, an empty spool, an eightpenny nail, two l-incb
No. 16 wire brads, a piece of tin and a good t^trong string.

Cut the broom handle to dimension and with a knife and
sandpaper work to form, rounding one end nicely and cutting
a shoulder on the other.

Bore a hole in the shoulder end large enough to receive
the nail. Drive the two brads in one end of the spool ^w"
apart. File off the heads and round the ends. Place the
ppool on. the nail and drive the nail into the handle. Drive
the nail just far enough so the spool will work freely on it.

Ijay cut the propeller pattern on a piece of paper. A
pencil compass may be used for some of the curves. Trace

til'.' iiattt-ru on n stiff piece of tin or galvanizi-il iron. Use a
scratch awl or sharp nail for marking.

Bore two %" holes with a hand drill or punch them with
a nail. If the latter method is used, file off the hurr. Cut
to lino with a pair of tin shears and bend the ends as indi-
cated by Fig. 2.

This toy should not be operated in the house or near a
crowd, because when the propeller leaves the spool it leav^-s
with considerable force and is liable to break anything fragile
it might strike, or cut a gash if it should strike anyone in
the face.

To operate place the propeller on the brads, wind the
string about the spool tightly, hold the handle in the left
hand, pulling the string with the right. At the same time
tho string U; being pulled raise the left hand with a jerk,
throwing the propeller flying into the air.

PLATE 27

Fl YIN6 Propeller

Brads —HI

■oia

ii'j

-l)-!i-

Spool

1 1

I I

Broom

Propeller

Fisi

Fig.Z.

Top Vi£W

Fkont Vievi

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

POTATO GUN

The material for the ijiilato or pop gun consists of a
piece of tube anil a plunger. The tulie may be either metal
or glass, but tiie material of which it is made must t)e very
tiiin so it will cut through the slice of potato readily.

For the tube a piece of Vl" or %" tubing or a large quill
should be found ami cut about i%". The ends must he cut
even, and not have a burr on them. If the walls are not
very thin, file sharp at both ends.

Make a plunger to fit the tube. However, it Is not neces-
sary that It lit the tube tightly. Whittle the plunger from a
piece of wood, making a shoulder at the end of the handle.
The handle should be of larger diameter than the tube. The
distance from the shoulder to the end of the plunger should
be about 1 Inch less than the length of the tube. It must
not run all the way through the tube when pushing out a load.

Trepan' the ammunition for the gun by slicing a good-
sized potato Into V.-lnch slices; if thinner the tube will not
hold the air. Lay a slice of potato on the table and press
the tulle through it. When you feel the tube strike the tahlc,
twist the tube, making sure the potato is cut all the way
through. With the plunger push the pillet to the other end
of the tube. Remove plunger, cut another piece In the end
of the tube, and then with a quick push of the plunger force
the last pillet up to the first. The compression of the air will
f >rce the first pillet out with considerable force and a
loud pop.

Should the sides of the tube be dented, or there be a
• ■rack in the seam, the air will escape and the gun will not
shoot.

PLATE 28

Potato Gun

Pl unger

-\'<- — -

•f'

File Sharp

Tube

Gun assembled

- ■■ \^g^.\r-j^.z : f.zr.z r-.zrs.- )f 1 - 1

HAND CRAFT PRf)|ECTS

A WOODEN DOLL

This iloll is just the tMns for the little folUs ijccausc it
will st:iiul iiiiiny tumbles without l)rpaliin(;. It will staud
civet, with its arms in many positions, without falling over.
It can also sit on the floor, stand on its head or hands, and
l>p plaeod in many other amusing positions. Tliere is no reason
why it should be a boy d(dl. If yciu prefer a girl, a skirt and
sun bonnet will quickly transform it into a girl doll.

The doll Is to be painted, so use any kind of wood. Make
the body lirst. Ho all the straight sawing with a common
saw, but saw the head with the coping saw.

Now make the legs according to the pattern, rinimling
the end with a chisel and sandpaper. Bore holes, for the
screws a little larger than the shank of the screw and counter-
sink for the head. If the screw is too tight the' movement of
the leg will soon turn It out of the body.

The arms are practically the same as the legs, except
that the layout on them is not so difficult. The arms should
fit well, so the doll will be properly balanced.

Lay out with a pencil the features, etc., or if you ai'e not
very e.xpert at drawing have someone do i1 for you.

Little children who play with toys of this kind like
liright colors, so any condiinijtion of l)right colors will be
desirable. The following combination is suggested : Pants
blue, shirt red, face white, hair and features black, shoes black
or brown, stockings and tie gre<'U, and cuffs and collar yellow.
Two coats will be necessary.

Do not try to paint to a certain line with one color and
tlien continue with another, while the first is still wet. If
you do the colors will run together, siwiliug the looks of the
toy. Let one color dry thoroughly before applying the next.

PLATE 29

^»

AWooDEN Doll

LEG Pattern

V -4.

:' 1

' ---'' Al

(■. i "-

HEJ\D And Body

fiRM Pattern

-yr~

TX.

zSv

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

A THANKSGIVING GOBBLER

It can reailUy lie seen from thi' drawlns. which shows a
staple and string attached to tho axh-, that this toy is to be
drawn along the floor. The weight made of lead fitted Into
the bottom of the axle causes the turkey to move back and
forth, giving it the appearance of walking.

Note the direction of the grain represented by the line
lines on the different parts.

Plane up a piece for the turkey and then trace In the
pattern. Cut to form with a coping saw.

Get out the piece for the axle. Be sure the ends are cut
square. Bore a hole i^" deep for the weight and on the
opposite side cut a groove for the turkey.

Draw the wheels on stock prepared for them, with a
pencil compass, and cut as perfect as po.iisihle with a coping
saw. At the center bore a hole for the screw to fasten the
wheel to the axle. Use a round-head screw and place washers
on each side of the wheel so it will turn freely.

^'a^dpaper all parts and' glue the turkey in place after
driving a staple in thi' axle. Paint the wheels and axle led,
also the shaded part of the head of the turkey. The bill and
part between the axle and breast and wing are painted yellow.
The rest of the turkey is to be painted brown, or as near to a
turkey color as you can mix. After this is thoroughly dry
paint the feathers, wing and eye, and line on the bill, I)lack,
using a fine striping lirush.

The mold is made of two pieces. Lay one piece on the
other and drive brads through one piece and a snort distance
into the other. Clamp the pieces In the vise and directly on
the crack bore a hole with a %" bit 1%" deep, so half of
the cut will be made on each piece. Take the pieces apart
and gouge out as at M. Place the pieces back in the vise and
pour the mold full of hot lead. When the lead has cooled, re-
move the weight, file smooth and force in the hole in the
axle. Do not pour water on hot lead because it will explode.

PLATE 30

Turkey

A Th/)nks6/v/ng Gobbler

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WHEEL

Axle

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1 1
1 '

MOLD

SrKifcM

■ Brad

"iA

Cur Mold ji Deep

-'^ LEADVJ EIGHT

HAND CRAFT PROIRCTS

AEROPLANE WEATHERVANE

The overall diniersions for body are indicated, but no
definite dimensiims are given for curve at the back. Make
this to suit yriursclf, but reiufmber there must be sufficient
ai'oa to keep the vane headed into the wind. Bore hole for
screw for the support after plane is assembled.

Cut small slot for the rudder at the back of body, (.'et
the slot exactly the right size so the rudder can be held in
place without nailing.

Get out the other pieces according to dimensions. In
boring holes in wheel-axle hanger.s, be careful not to split
thom. To avoid this, hold iu a vise crosswise of the grain.
Make axle of (juarter inch <lowcl. Place in position in hangers
and nail the latter to body. To make wheels, describe circles
with steel dividers. liore holes in center, then remove stock
very carefully.

Cut dowels for supporting the planes, being careful to
get ends square. Fasten planes to dowels by driving brads
through the planes into ends of dowels. For wiring, use wire
that bends easily. Bore holes with brad awl and place wires
as shown. Fasten planes to body, then fasten rudder in
position.

The propeller will require careful work. Get out a piece
%" square then describe a circle %" in diameter and lay out
as shown. The propeller will be 1/2 " thick throughout its
length but the width will vary from %" at center to %" at
ends. A sharp knife will be best for forming the part. For
fastening the propeller, a round-head screw or a nail with
large head may be used. Bore a hole through center of
propeller that will permit it to turn easily on the nail or
screw used. Put in place with a washer between it and tnd
of body.

Balance assembled vane and bore hole for round-head
sciew at point of balance. This should come for appearance
about 4H" from front end. Should it not come at this pjint,
secure the balance by attaching a small bit of metal to the
lighter end. Suspend from any convenient support hy means
of the stick indicated. It should turn easily.

Paint machine gray, with red, white and blue stripes on
the tail. On upper and lower sides of planes paint the design
shown, in good proportion to the space it is placed in.

PLATE 31

ft&RQPLfyNE: Wfrt^Tt^ErRVPtNfc

Detail Of

3-i

Circle A. Reo
ST^f* B. Wmitc
Circle C.Blue

, Arm for hanging -from
tree or other support

^ if

Wire

A, Red

B . White
C .Blue

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IT T

HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS

SMALL CART

Not a Sfat amount of stock will bo rciiuircil for nuikiii;;
the cart, but it is quite large enough to amuse a little boy
or girl. If a larger cart is desireil, it is only necessary to
increase the dimensions on the drawing.

Get out the stocls to the overall dimensions, then lay out
the euires. Those at the corners on the front and b,>ci<
pieces are parts of a circle and can be made with a pair of
compasses. The curves on the side pieces are made freehand.
Measure in 3^" from one end, 1^/^" from one side, then con-
nect these points with a pleasing curve. Finish one side
first and from that lay out the other side, thus getting them
alike. Use a coping saw to remove the stock.

In making the wheels, great care should lie taken to gi't
them e.xactly round. Lay them out with a pair of dividers,
making a good line in the wood with the point. Saw very
clo.se to the line and finish with a wood file and sandpaper.

If this work is done carefully, the wheels can lie made very
true. Bore holes at the centers for the screws. These holes
should he only large enough to permit the wheels to turn
freely. Washers should be used between the wheels and the
axle as shown in the drawing, and it would be well to use
them between the head of the screw and the wheel on each
side. The use of the washers in this manner will cause the
wheels to run more accurately.

The box is fastened together with brads. The axle and
handle are fastened to the bottom of the box with 1-inch flat-
head screws. Be sure to locate the axle squarely across the
box. Use a small piece of dowel through the end of the
handle to grasp it by.

The cart will be very attractive if painted a bright red.
Children like liright colors and toys should always lie painted
to satisfy this liking.

PLATE 32

Small cart

Washer-

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

RED CROSS AMBULANCE

This toy will require careful work.

The body requires ;i piece of stock lV4"x4%"xS". The
method of laying out the jiattern is clearly shown iu the
drawing. Remove the stock with :i coping saw. The hole
for the steering apparatus should he bored before the parts
are assembled, and from underneath the body.

Lay out pattern for the fender and cut to shape with the
coping saw. Two are needed. The axles are easy to make —
two pieces i:j"i\</'xl%".

The wheels should be perfectly round and may be easily
made so if these directions are followed : With dividers set
to the required radius, describe circles on the wood from
which the wheels are to be made. Score deeply with the
point of the dividers, leaving a line easy to work to. The
stock may be removed with a saw and chisel, finishing with
a wood file and sandpaper.

The two crosses are very thin, so be careful not to split
them.

The ambulance is to be paiuted in three colors and it
will be found best to paint parts of it before assembling.
The axles can be attached before assembling. They are
located %" from the front end and I'/s" 'from the rear end.
Bo sure they are square with the body. Fasten with brads.

The painting scheme is this: The entire body is to be
nliite; the crosses, red; and the axles, wheels, fenders, and
steering gear, lilack. A good way to do the painting is to
drive small brads into the pieces, attach strings to them and
then paint. As each piece is finished it can be hung up to
dry. In driving brads into the wheels, drive them into the
centers, as there are to be some driven in later for the wheels
to revolve on. liound head screws and washers may be used
instead of the brads if desired.

The painting will be easier and will look better if the
parts are well sandpapered.

When the parts are dry, the ambulance may be assembled.
In doing so. be careful not to mar the parts. The result of
your work should be an attractive toy.

PLATE 33

Red CR053 Ambulance,

Body, uv/7//e
Crosses, red
Bo/a nee, b/ack.

Pattern
for body.
Make

Pattern for fender

MaKe two

flake four

r IJ Li

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BABY'S ROCKING HORSE

The stock needefl for this toy can l>o obtained from a
packing case.

Make seat first. Draw a center line with a sharp pencil
the length of board. The other center lines are drawn at
riy;ht angles to the first line by means of the square, their
locations being 5" and G" from the ends. At the intersec-
tions of center lines, place the point of your compass and
draw circles of required diameters. Straight lines drawn
from one circle to the other, just touching the circumference,
give the outside edges of the design. With a turning or copinj;
saw, cut close to outline, finishing with plane, spoke shave
and sandpaper. Before removing the long center line, locate,
lior.^ and countersink 3-l(>" holes for the screws used in fast, n-
ing the head.

For the head, square to dimensions and lay out 1-inch
squares. Through these trace the outline according to pat-
tern shown on drawing. Cut to shape and finish in same
manner as the seat was finished.

For the rockers make a pattern from cardboard and from
it trace the design on the wood. Tut accurately to shape,
being sure both rockers are exactly alike.

To fasten rockers to the seat: Bore half inch holes part
way through the rocker, boring the rest of the way with a
3-lG" drill. Before screwing rockers to seat, round off nicely
so they will not mar a polished floor or pick the threads of
a rug.

Assemble the parts according to information contained
in the t^p and front views of the drawing.

The painting may be done more easily if the parts are
separated. Before separating, however, mark rockers so they
may he replaced in exactly the same position they were in
before taking apart.

Paint the head and rockers white and the seat red. Each
part should be given several coats. Each coat should be
thoroughly dry before another is applied, so do not permit
your anxiety to finish the rocker cause you to put the second
coat on too soon. When the white is dry on the head, paint
the eye, nostrils, bridle and mane, applying black paint with a
fine brush.

When parts are re-assembled, the horse is ready for use,
unless it is desired to add a thin coat of varnish to protect it
from dirty fingers.

PLATE 34

Rocker

^^1

B/\qY5 Rocking Horse

P/iINT

Wwre:

"IT"' — i — ' — '~~? — T
<t ■» O Q M •<■
^^— i- I t I t

79-

SI]

"^*

ft-zi 0-3

d-2S." £ - 3"
r-2l3" F- 3"

0-20.
/-2i"

Assemble Wi_r^
2 "/Vg. /p Fi/}r/i£,sD Screws.

Seat

=rl

HAND CRAFT projects

JUMPING JACK

This character will make an amusing toy, btit there is no
reason why you cannot change it if you desire. It would '"•
interesting to mal\o several toys, each representing a dilTerent
character. This may he done without changing the operation.
All that is neces:mry is to lieep the size of the parts the
same as in the drawing. The? changing of the shape within
these limits will not matter.

In selecting stock, get a piece large enough, if possllile,
o that all parts may be laid out on it. The patterns nmy I»e
laid out directly on wood or on cardboard. If several toys
are to bo made, use the latter method, for then the patterns
may be used repeatedly. In either case, lay off squares accord-
ing to the dimensions shown and trace designs so the lines
will have the same relation to the squares as they do in the
ilrawing. By this method, the parts you make will be quite
like those shown. If one is skillful in freehand drawing, he
may make the designs without the squares, and perhajjs
according to his own ideas. This would add interest to the

construction. It may be best to follow these designs the first
time, after which you may experiment along your own ideas.

When the patterns are drawn, cut out carefully. If they
are on cardboard, lay on the wood and trace around them.
In placing the design on the wood, be sure to have the grain
run the long way of the piece. Cut to shape with a copiug
saw and sand well.

The various parts are held together wilb pins. Ilore holes
witli a sharp bi-ad awl just large enough for a pin, at the
points indicated on the drawing by dots. To assemble, insert
the pins in the holes, cut off so the pin extends on the other
side about 3-lG", and with a pair of round-nose pliers liend
the end down with a twisting motion. D- not try to get the
parts to fit tightly together — they should work freely.

The toy will look better if it is painted. Use your own
Ideas. For contrast, the upright should be of a different
color than the other parts. One method is to use hlack paint,
leaving the natural wood for the buttons, face, etc.

PLATE 35

ZJ;

Brad

Jumping Jack.

Required —

One One Tv^O

Paiajt
V, / Toy To Suit
OwA/ Ideas.

All pieces -^ thicl<

One

^\^

■'^">5l[

Hake One

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

THE HULA DANCERS

For tho bodies of the dancers select straight grained pine
or white wood. Laj' out the faces and the location of the
nails that hold the limhs in place. ■\\'ith a knife carve the
head and face, rencil or paint in the features.

The arms are cut from a tin can. Locate the holes and
punch with a sharp 2" finishing nail. File off the burr caused
Ity the nail.

Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails, making
sure that the arms fit loosely. Drive the nails until the head
is about %" from the body.

Make four legs of heavy cardboard. Lay out a pattern
on paper. Trace the design through the rectangles as shown
on the drawing detail of the leg. Cut the pattern and trace
on the cardboard. Cut to line with a pair of shears or a
knife. Fasten the legs to the body the same as the arms
were fastened. Painting or staining of the body, legs and
arms should be done before adding the skirt and wig.

The skirt and wig are cut from scrap black and white
fur. Make patterns of paper before cutting the hide. Glue
the skirt and wig to the body. About %" of one end of the
wig is glued to the top of the head, the rest being permitted
to flap while the dancers are in motion. The longer the hair
the better will he the result. Rabbit fur is very good.

To operate the dancers, drive a pin In the under si<le of
a chair rail. Tie a piece of black thread to the pin and nbout
two feet from the chair tie the thread through the holes in
the center of the arras. Stand about five feet from the
dancers, holding the string at X in one hand and concealed
from the audience. .Tcrk lightly and notice the dancing motion
transmitted to the dancers.

Place a piece of black cloth beneath the dancers' feet so
the thread will not be noticed. Practice a few minutes before
starting your exhibition.

PLATE 36

I HE Hula Dancers

Fur Skirt

4 f^M^

' -7

^/i"-H '

(

t:::TT

/) Common P/n
3 Chair R/iil
C Black Thre/id

D BLACH CLOJiH

E Tin Arm

Cardboard Leg

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

MECHANICAL DUCK

As this toy Is to t)e painted, it is possiljle to usr ailnost
any kind of wood.

The body, head and taii iieing made from wood of tlie
same thicliness, select a piece large enough to make all three
parts. Lay out the small squares as shown, being careful to
make accurate measurements. Next trace the design through
the squares, making the lines pass through them in the same
relative position as on the drawing. Do not do this hastil.y —
use great care so the outline will lie a good representation of
a duck. Even greater care will lie required in cutting, for
no matter how carefully you have traced your lines, unless
you cut exactly to them, you will fail. Use a coping saw
fur this.

Make parts D and E next. Part D will need careful
attention. First get out stock to the overall dimensions, then
lay out and cut groove. As It is intended that the duck's
feet rest in this groove for support, compare the thickness of
the feet before you cut the groove to exact size. This is sug-
gested for the reason that in making part C you may have

made it a bit thin. The groove should hold the feet snugly in
position. The last operation will be to plane the chamfer
which runs only on three sides.

Pay attention to the note on the drawing with reference
to location of dowel holes. It Is easy to see what difhculty
would be encountered if the holes were not opposite each
other in the various parts.

When all parts are finished, they should be assembled and
tested for proper fitting and relation to each other. The
small drawing at the right explains how the parts are fastened
in place, and the method of operating. When the test is satis-
factory, take the toy apart for painting. While it is possible
to paint the parts when assembled, it can lie done with greater
ease if they are separated. The parts should l)e well sand-
papered before painting.

When you paint an eye, endeavor to get it to look just
as much like an eye as possible, and when you represent the
feathers, use the same care. Careful and thoughtful work
will produce a toy that will well repay your elTort.

PLATE 37

it-

,^2^--_Z._

r r-^-; :

is;!:;;'!-;

t t -^N/

-5 /- ^"^

" 1

„r

JJ^I

^-^

,^^, iv fc)

^ : ^v^ ^

^ Si s

V ^^

^ /- ^.

s^^ -i^'--x ^

^' f 'i

\ ^ J-

V -/'^

^^ z

■> - /^ i

--^ :r ,-^ J

2__ _ _ D 4-^

Brad

3^J D0VV£L

Brad and

Do\A/£L

Are Checks
For a -B

3'
6

Mechanical Duck.

Paint - Body ^- Gray With White Wings.
Head And Neck .Cray, Red Eye.
White Crown, Yellow Bill
Tail.- Cray And White. Fee t, -
Yellow And Black. Feathers ,■
Black Stripez E,- Brown.

■^ DoW£LS

View Of Parts
Without C In Place

./•

r^/l-

^<9

. 1

7^ -r^t

Jl'^v^

Groove
For C Not
^Shov^n

Locate Holes On C
By Means Of Squares. To
Locate Holes X-Y On E. Put
C In Groove , Then Place E
Against C And Mark
Through C On £.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

SCOUT FIREMAKING SET

That this outfit is i)r!ic'tic;il has liccn ih-innnstrati-il by
users who have won contests for speed in setting fires.

Lay out bow acconling to detailed drawing. Bore a %"
hole to form round part of cutout just ahead of hand-hold.
With coping, keyhole or turning saw, cut to line of layout.
Next niaki- holes for leather or buckskin thong. Finish bow
by making all corners round, scraping with window glass,
and smoothing with fine sandpaper. Spnnd plenty of time
on this so the handle will be nicely rounded and all parts
smooth and free from slivers. Rub bow with linseed or other
oil, so If you are caught in the rain with it, the wood will
not be affected. Thread the thong through the holes and hold
by a brad pushed through leather so it cannot slip through
the hole.

The block D is made of oak. It is chamfered and has a
screw driven about 3-lfi of an inch below the surface at the
center, which acts as a bearing for the head of the round
head screw In the end of drill C,

Make drill of cypress, as this material will start the
tinder more readily than other wood. It can be made round,
left square, or have the corners planed off. One end is nicely
rounded and the other has a screw driven half way into it.

The tinder board is made of cypress. Lay out notches as
shown, but before cutting with a saw, bore V^" holes y\"
deep. The holes are to receive the end of the drill.

To start a fire, make shavings of dry wood. Collect some
dry grass and twigs. Place board A on ground, and below
one of the notches place a bunch of tinder. Wind the thong
on the bow about the drill as shown in assembled drawing.
Place end of drill in hole, hold block D in the left hand
on the screw in the other end of the drill. Grasp bow by
handle with right hand, hold part A with whichever knee ig
most convenient, then saw with the bow. causing drill to
revolve back and forth rapidly. As soon as timber begins to
smoke, remove board, pick up tinder and blow steadily on it,
or swing it, holding in both hands until it begins to flame.

PLATE 38

Cypress

Boat I HoLts
J OetP To y^
Aid /f\i

STytflTlfJG C

Place Nau rHRouGH
THorjG At £. Loosen Or
Tighten Tmong &y Changing
Position Of Nail.

^3 TEN With
Strong Tack

I^RH. Screw

5COUT Hremaking Set.

L£FT Hand
Here

Cypress

(gs \ RouNO End

CHj^nFER

■^ \-^'' Tinder ^S^

.1 n.

A..^------v:::.--:^{^.m^

Sore Holes For "-— ^
Thong As Shown
By Dotted Lines

Make Of Oak- Round ^All dooES

Tinder
Can Be Made
By Frayino Piece
Of Soft Manilla

Rlace
Knee
^ HEBE

Oak

■:■ @

->.

Shall FH

Screw To

Serve As A Bearing For C

■"T.

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BOB SLED

This 'Irawins will roquiro (■iinsi(li'ral>lc study Iipforc
ntteinpling to make the sled. It may be made to he pulled
with the tongue or a pair of thills may be made for a dog
or pony. The thills and tongue may I)e interchangeable.

Begin by malilns the box. All the stocli Is %" thick
except the dash, and this is %". Next make the Vi" strips
that fit over the upper edges of the box.

Get out the stock for the seat and the small cleats that
are fastened to the inside of the box to hold the seat in
position. Also the stiips that fit into these pieces and are
fastened to the sides of the seat.

Next get out parts 2 and 3 which fit under the box ami
are bolted to it ; in other words the front and lack Irolstnrs.
The back bolster is fastened to the box by two eye bolts,
and also to part 4, by eye bolts hooked in those running up
through the box. This allows the back bob to rock when
going over uneven surfaces.

The front bolster is bolted to the box and Is fastened to

part 4 by a king bolt that runs through the box, and also
part 3 and 4, It is secured by a nut under the bob.

Make parts 4 and note the mortises in these pieces, into
which fit the tenons on parts 5.

Parts 5 should next be made and fitted to the parts
just constructed, then work can be started on the runners,
which perhaps will be the hardest of the work. Lay out the
runners as shown by the drawing, cutting the mortises t)efore
the runners are cut to shape. Angle irons should be fastened
in the corners where parts 4 and 5 are connected. Also iron
strips should be .screwed to the runners and parts 5.

Make the tongue and spreader to which it is fastened.
Tile latter is fastened to the runners with %" lag screws.
Note a spreader is also required for the bacic bob.

The iron runners or shoes may he put on at a blacksmith
shop or you may do this yourself, as it is not difflcult. The
scheme for painting the finished sled is indicated on the draw-
ing by the letters.

PLATE 39

■ >

ife'i

nr^^

5C5 JZ.fZ).

J/t£w Without
Run NCR 5, £tc.

■^

^-iPlfii'- ..-^/^c- ^3^F^. f:~.

^' -J w'

Mater/al.

3mo£3 - Steel.

■/4/vg TH/M.L3 - OAn
OTH£Pt Part^ -jAnv Coop Wood

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

A HIGH SPEED DRILL

Years ago wlu-u tho Indians hail no matches thoy started
their fires by working a how and arrow similar to the work-
ing of this drill. The Chinese also use a contrivance like this
one. with a weight on tup of the shaft for drilling hides "lu
ilominoes.

The drill shaft is round and may be planed from a square
stick if you do not have a dowel rod about this size. Taper
one end of the shaft to receive the drill point and bore a
hole in the other end for the string.

Make the fly wheel of heavy wood, as the heavier the
wheel the better the drill will work. Lay out the fly wheel
with a pair of dividers or a pencil compass and cut to line
with a coping saw. The hole bored at the center should be a
press fit on the shaft and should be fastened to it with glue.

Use a piece of hard wood for the movable arm. Lay out
the shape from center lines. Bore the hole before shaping

the piece, to prevent splitting. Note that tlie hole in this
l)iece is larger than the oni- in the fly wheel.

Fish or chalk line should be used for assemiding the
movable arm to the shaft. The line or cord used must not
be stiff, but very pliable, so it will wrap about the shaft easily.
Tie a knot in the cord each side of the shaft to keep it from
slipping out of place. Thread the ends through the holes In
the movable arm and knot several times.

To operate the drill wind the string around the shaft by
turning the movable arm on it. Then press down on the arm.
releasing the pressure as the arm reaches the end of the down-
ward stroke. This will cause the string to wind in the oppo-
site direction on the shaft, raising the arm for the next stroke.
A little soap applied to the shaft will cause the arm to slide
easily.

PLATE 40

A HIGH SPELD DRILL

Fly v/heel

NfllL DRIUS

U li

gnJ filed ehdfrafffnfJ

••^.

CNINC3C Drilling
Spots ONDomuoes.

MOVABLE ARM

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CRUMB TRAY

A dark wood will l>p most suitable for this model. A
light wood, it left natural, will soil easily, and if stained, the
color will he affeeted by the dampness on the cloth that must
occasionally he used to keep it dean. It made from gumwood,
and given two or three coats of linseed oil, you will have a
very attractive piece of work..

Get out your stock for the tray to the overall dimensions,
then lay out the shape with fine pencil lines. The radius for
drawing the arcs from points C anit D is %". The same radius
is used for rounding the corners at the back of the tray. No
radius is shown for the cornirs at the front of the tray.
These are to be rounded to give a pleasing curve.

To best show the shape of the finished tray, the end view
is given as a section on the line AI? shown in the front view.

The tool which is used most in this constru<'tinn is thi'
ffoiif/e, one having the l>evel on the outside. It must be
sharp. First practice using it on an old piece of wood. Com-

mence removing the waste stock by working from the center
to the outside. Keep away from the lines about Vs" until the
roughest part of the work is complete, then finish carefully
to the lines. The gouge is not an easy tool to work with at
first and you cannot get as smooth surfaces as with a plane.
I5e careful around the comers.

It is necessary to have some kind of a hand-hold. The
end view shows the curve crosswise of the tray and the front
view shows the length and the curve at the ends. The tray
is thinner at the front than at the back. Shape this after the
rest of the work is complete, as it is easier to hold the piece
in the vi.se or clamp if it is the same thickness all over.

Lay out the scraper as shown. Saw the curve with a
coping saw.

Sandpaper all the work, and finish as suggested. Kemcm-
hcr that sandpaper does not take the place of the plane, chisel,
etc. Use it only after all the tool work is finished.

PLATE 41

TRPtV

-5^

-6"

"Sect/on
T/,fU A 5

ScRPjPfcR

1«'

HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS

A SIMPLE AND SERVICEABLE FLAG HOLDER

tr some nther soft wihmI shimld I'l-

il.M-ii.il fcir tliis

iHilder.

Start work on the liasi'. I'lane it to the r(>(4iiire(l (linu-ii-
sions. then lay out tlip locations for the holes H and J. Draw
two center lines, as shown, and on tlie center line running
across the piece, marli points %" from each edge for holes
nnirked .T. On the center line running lengthwise • of the
piece mark points one inch each way from the center for the
holes marked H. At these points drill 3-10" holes entirely
through the piece. Countersink holes marked H on the bottom
side of the base to receive a flat-head screw.

Next with a sharp-pointed pencil lay out the Vs" chamfer
all around the top edge. Never use a marking gage, as it
will make a groove in the wood that cannot be removed un-
less the chamfer is made larger than is desired.

Plane the chamfer, holding tlw piece in the vise for this
operation. Sandpaper well, being careful to keep sharp edges.

It will

Mfl.l 1

cilgi'S .M. N a

]|ll (>

front end.

I'iei,;ife :i piere li.r'the holder next. Bore a Inde two
inches deei) to tit your Hag stick. Next lay out. as shown in
the drawing, the parts to be removed, which are shown by
ilnited lines. lieninve the parts with a plane.

the appearance of the finished piece if
re chamfered \s" back .1 ini-hes from the

.\f(er finishing tlie holder with sandpaper, the parts are
ready lo bi' ass"lnlded. They are fastened together wilh llat-
head screws through the countersunk holes.

Drive a screw through the top of the holder into the h(.de
to be occupied by the Hag stick. This screw should be made
lc> lit loosely, so it may be turned with the lingers, and its
purpose is to hold the Hag stick in place so it is not blown out
by the wind. ,

A desirable finish is to paint the holder to match the
house or other surface it is to be fastened upon.

PLATE 43

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TOY RABBIT

A coping saw or a band saw will Ijo necessary for inal<iui;
this toy. If you have tin- use of a baud saw, and am properly
supervised in Its operation, the construction will be much
easier. The work can be done well with the coping saw, but
it will require n little mere effort on the part of the worlier.

First lay out your patterns on thin cardboard. Lay out
the squares as indicated and trace the design through these
squares in the same way as they are traced through the
squares of the drawing. Be very careful with this part of
the worlt. You want this design to look enough like a real
rabbit so your friends will not ask you where you got your
dog. You will find it quite a task to get just the right outline.

When the patterns are completed to your satisfaction,
cut out with a pair of sharp shears. Lay them on the stock
from which the toy is to be made and trace around them.
Locate the holes with exactness. It is important that the
holes on the right side of the body be exactly opposite the

ones i>n the left side. Before cutting to shape, it will be well
to bore the holes for the screws. Select the size screw you
wish to use and bore accordingly. When all parts are cut to
shape, assemble them to see if they have the proper relation
to each other. If satisfied with this test, take them apart,
smooth with sandpaper, and p.nint according to the suggestion
on the drawing. Paint each piece separately and hang up to
dry by meaus of small pieces of string.

Make the cart next. Be careful to get the wheels round.
The measurements for the grooves in the cart are to be taken
from the iini.shed toy. Lay out and cut accordingly. Paint
the whole cart red.

Washers should be used between all movable parts for
two reiisons. First, to make the parts work easily, and second,
to keep from marring the painted sui-faces. For instance, if
the legs were fastened to the body without a washer the
movement of the legs would soon wear off the paint.

PLATE 4:!

—

Make Two

^t(\I

■—

•f

^ \

>' 1

l=L_

, 1

1 j

\j^

Toy Rabbit

Make Two
Of Each

— Paint —
Rabbit- Whi te.
Spot Black
Or Gi^^y.
Ca^r-t - Red

Indicates
Location Of
Holes Fofi Screws

These
Dimensions
To Suit
Finished Toy

»..p "oj I :

rM\

-irnr

Washeh

HAND GRAFT PROJECTS

TARGET PISTOL

r.t'j:ln work by iiuiUing pistol. Soft wuod such as piu''
should bo .selected, as there is considerable carving to be done
with the jaek-knife. IMano the piec<' sijuare and to size, then
lay out the form. Bore a V^'nch hole through barrel and
then, with a smaller bit. cut the opening in which the hanuiicr
slides. Note the cut is made deeper at X. Cut to form with
a coping saw. Before rounding barrel cut opening for trigger.

Make trigger. Bore holes with a brad awl for pin ami
rubber band. Fit trigger in place and fasten with a pin.

Drive a tack in the bottom side of barrel and loop a
rubber band run through the trigger over it. The rubber
band acts as a trigger spring.

The hammer should be made of a piece of hard wood.
Thread a heavy rubber hand through hammer and loop ends
over tacks or screws driven in sides of barrel. Fine springs
such as may be taken from an old adding machine may be
used with the ruliber band, or if they are strong enough no
ruLiher hanil will be required. Thread a piece of fish or chalk
line through hole in hammer, to be used to pull hammer back
to cock the gun.

Taki- pistol apart and round barrel, trigger anil handir-
nicely. Also santl insirle of I)arn'l so the bulb'l will slide <mi1
easily.

To make bullet, whittle oul a nuind stick, cut a shoubb'i-
and notches as at 1. Wrap a piece of wrapping paper around
liullet as at 2 and fasten with a piece of string. Stand the
liullet in a hole bored in a piece of board and pour paper
mold full of hot lead. The lead can be melted in an old
spoon. A drop of water poured in the hot lead will cause
it to explode, so do not allow water to be put on the lead
until after it has set. When the lead has cooled remove papi-r
anri file the end round.

The frame for target is well dimensioned so little troul)Ie
will be experienced in making it. The dolls are made of
clothes pins.

To play the game shoot in turns. The men count 10 and
the women 5. The person first making 50 points wins the
game.

PLATE 44

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

JACK BE NIMBLE

E\'pry boy has learned this old nurseo* rhynn' in Ihc
klndcrpirtcn. Hfro is a chance for you to illustrate it for
the little folks. It is to he done with some thin wood, a
jack-knife and copinq: saw.

Make the base B. Next lay out with a pencil compass
and rule part A. Before sawing to form, bore a row of 5-lG"
holes, removing the stock for the cut-out. The cut-out can be
made with the coping sp_w. Finish the sides of the cut-out
with a knife, rat-tail lile and sandpaper. They must be very
smooth so part F will slide easily.

Make C and fasten to B with cigar box nails. Part D
is made up of two pieces of wood, one thin and one thick. It
Is merely a slide and its construction can be Ii-arned from
the end view. Assemble with cigar box nails.

E is a very thin piece, and receives considerable abuse.
so select a good tough piece of cigar box lumber for this part.

It must be made accurately and the edges of the slot and
corners nicely rounded and smoothed with sandpaper.

Part F will have to l>e made with a jack-knife, unless you
have a turning latlu-.

Jack, or part (J, should be drawn on a piece of wood
having the grain run at such an angle that the point of the
cap will not split off.

Drive brads for the rublx^r band and then assembb^
according to the drawing. It will be found necessary, no
doubt, to sand parts here and there so they will work well.
A little common soap applied to movable parts will make
them work freely.

With a small brush decorate the toy as indicated on the
drawing. To operate, hold B in the left hand, grasp the
handle on E between the thumli and first and second fingers
of the right hand, pull to the right till Jack backs over the
candle, release the handle and see Jack jump.

PLATE 45

Jack Be Nimble

Paint —
/K-B Yellow H^ Red I Pink
J- White K- Green Candle - White^Reo .

HOLDERdROWN SMOKE GRAY

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BOY SCOUT'S HELIOGRAPH OUTFIT

First grt !iut all pieces uf stock to their overall sizes.

Fit to the liorizontiil part the two pieces which fit just
in front and back of shutter fratne and which hohl the latter
in a firm, upright position. Cut notch in central part of
frame later. Next cut the angles on upper ends of B and C.
First study the drawing, then hold parts as neai'ly as you
can in proper position with reference to pieces to which they
are to fit. This should assist you in understanding the draw-
ing. Lay out the angles, but before cutting, compare again.
Next locate and cut notches for part X. To do this lay H and
C on the floor in proper position, place X on them so it
will be 14" from bottom of each piece, then mark. Fasten X
in position at once.

Lay out and cut A next. Fasten A, B and C in place
with small hinges. When these parts are assembled, the small
blocks that rest just back of A, B and C may be fitted and
fastened in place. To locate notch to be cut in horizontal
part, fold B and C back so X rests upon it. then mark and cut.

M.Mki' iiirror frame next. The mirror shouM be one suit-
able tor this size frame and is to be held in place liy round-
head screws and washers. ,\ 2" round-head screw holds the
fi'ame to the horizontal support. Use a washer here also.
Turn screw Just tight enough to hold frame securely and yet
permit it to lie turned as desired.

Next make shutter frame. It will be necessary to bore
holes for shutter support and to place the latter in position
before assembling the parts. Tack shutter in place afterwards.
Small cleats are placed in front of shutter at the top, and
back of shutter at the bottom to keep it from swinging farther
than is necessary. The opening at bottom of fi-ame should
be a size that will hold the shutter in a snug position when
in use. When carrying from place to place it is removed.

.\ coat of paint will add to the appearance and also pre-
serve the wood.

The outfit can be quickly set up and adjusted to flash
the signals to any point desired.

PLATK 4fi

DtTAiL OF tliRROPi FRy^r/a
U3£. MiRRofi Suitable For This
5/Z£ FR^rte DoRe Hole 5 ^t ^ To
SutT Use R H ScRLws ^noW'-^sners

Boy Scouts Heliogr/\ph Outfit.

Det/ml Of 3HUTTEJi ^no FRAne

^^i-^

Locate
Amo Cut
After

To Cut Notches In
3 Ar^o C Fopi X . Lf^y 3 -^f^o C
Oiv Ftoofi , Pl-^ce X In Position
A NO n^RK X Is /I FRon Bottom.

Part C Is S-^ne Size.
1^3 S. But Upper £no Is
Cut Just Opposite

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

GROUND SCRATCHER

This groun;! scratoher will be found vi-ry conveni.iit r..r
those having small gardens. The project is also i good one
to make for Ihe practice gained in laying out an irregular
shai-'ed object from dimensions given.

The pattern might be laid out on, and cut from a piece
of cardboard and then traced on the wood. Plane up a piece
of wood to the n'quired thickness and on it trace the pattern.
Use a coping saw to cut to form and finish with a file and
sandpaper.

Bore a hole in the handle. Bore from both sides so the
wood around the hole will not split out. Locate the points
at which to drive the brads or scratchers and drive at about

th.' angle indicated. If the angle at which the brad comes
through docs not look right it can be bent to suit with a pair
of pliers.

Make the thin cap that covers the heads of the brads.
This is necessary to keep the brads from working loose and
pushing up through the handle. The cap may be bradded in
place, but it is suggested that holes be bored and it be fastened
to the handle with small round-head screws. Trace the cap
from the first part made so it will be exactly the same shape.

With sandpaper round all edges ninely, especially the
handle, so the sharp corners will not bother the user while
working.

PLATE 47

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL

Any material will do for the snow shovel,
painted, so work in any scrap pieces.

It is to be

Part D should be made of one piece if possible, but two
pieces may be used. The strip across the back and metal
piece across the front edge will help hold the parts together.
Plane part D to size and chamfer front edge as indicated on
the drawing of part D.

Make part C next. Note ou the drawing that the corners
are cut and a cut-out made for the handle. Fasten part C

to 1) with screws. Bore holes and countersink them, as llat-
head screws are to be used.

Now make the handle. It is composed of two parts, A
and B. Fasten A to P. with one screw and two hnishlng
nails. Also fasten B to C and D with screws.

Paint D and front face of C black, the rest of C and
the handle red.

Cut a strip of galvanized Iron or heavy tin, bend and tack
over the edge of D.

PLATE 48

• 1_

C/y/z. Z75 Snow jho vel

-i«o , ^

■*»

.^ • -L*

\. 36" ^-jj t

/>?/?7- £•

Part i

2 /^

^-8" — H ;

U L^ u '

■i

^'''»«»*.=ss==^-

-D

, '1

)

_ , / " 1

h 6 1

"■^ 1

1 1 -•

K3i-^ .'

Pa/f7t D ond
ffon^ foccBf C
b/ack, ffit fcst of
C and /loni^/e retf.

— «_

■^

(4- ^ ^^^

"^^

100

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

KITES

The making of kites like boat making requires consider-
able personal experimenting to make them perform as desired.

These drawings show a few of the most common kites.
The double dotted lines represent the kite sticks and the
single ilotted lines the string which is stretched from stick
to stick and holds them in position. The string Is also used
to strengthen the paper which Is pasted over It.

The first kite is called by boys a two sticker and, like
the three sticker, requires a tail. It is impossilde to sa.v how
long or how heavy the tail must be. It should be just heavy
enough so the kite will not dive. The tail can be made of
strips of cloth tied together.

A bridle or belly band may vary in length on different
kites, but this will have to be adjusted when the trial (light
Is made.

Sticks for kites can be made from a straight grained
cedar post. They will be very light and will bend consider-
able without breaking. Other light wood will do for the

sticks. To make the sticks from a post si)Iit off thin strips
with an axe and then plane to size.

Fasten the sticks together where they cross with a tine
Itrad or cigar box nail and bind with waxed cord.

Bend the cross stick of the bow kite as shown at the 6"
dimen.sion on the drawing and hold in this position with a
piece of fish line. It is great sport to fly three of these kites
at one time, although it takes some skill to get them up and a
very strong line to hold them.

Kites like the four-stick in the drawing have always won
the height contests and are not difficult to make. Cover this
kite with linen cloth or tracing cloth.

Box kites are also easy to nmke. The cross sticks can
I)e half lapped or fastened in other ways as the maker
may wish.

The best material for covering kites Is tracing cloth,
heavy colored tissue paper or cloth that will not allow the
wind to blow through it. A cooked flour and water paste is
as good as any.

PLATK 49

101

String

Two Stick

-37':^
Box Kite

\—7-\

Three Stick

y e 6

Kites

Two St/ck Bow

No tail

Four Stick

Yofd Stick '

3 Two Stick Bow Kites

■^^

SquapcBox Kite

102

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

PUZZLES

The first drawing shows "THE MYSTERIOUS STRINC
rrZZLE." Pull one ccd ami the strins is white ; pull the
other and it is red. A sectional vi<'W shows the object cut
through the center and one part removed, expor.in^ the in-
terior.

. Get out a piece of soft wood and bor;- a Vj" hole alino;:t
the entire length. Augur bits work hard in end grain, so use
soft wood. Make a plug to lit the hole from the same wood.
It should be made longer than the piece desired so it can be
sawed off after being put in plaee. After sawing, if the plug
is still evident it may be concealed by pounding or battering
the end with a hammer or paint the whole piece.

Bore a %" hole crosswise of the piece. Thread a piece
of heavy chalk line through the holes — straight across — reach
up in the large hole with a crochet hook and draw the cord

down through the hole. Drive a staple in one end of the
plug after the cord is placed in positiou with reference to the
staple. Insert the plug into the hole to a depth of 1" and
saw flush with the end. Pull ends of string up tight.

Tie a knot in one end of the cord and color it red for
a distance of about 4". Pull the other end of the cord, draw-
ing the red end in as far as the knot will permit. Cut this
end off to the same length as the dthcr and tie a knot. Leave
this end white.

The other puzzle is rather difficult to solve. Make the
piece as shown and tie the buttons in place. Ordinary knots
are used at the end, but in the middle the string should be
fastened as indicated at A. The object is to get both buttona
on one side without untying the end knots.

PLATE 50

103

Puzzles.

ChalK Line
Color one end,-
l^s^'^^ /^' Leave, other end
wh/'fe.

j Bore I
3 Ho/es

Staple

Object -

To get button
X on same
Side as Y
without untieing
the knots.

-//H

j Enlarged
/r[ view
mat A

104

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TRENCH MORTAR

Boys, here is a Fourth of July cannon that will do every-
thing a war cannon will do except kill people. It will boom,
shoot a projectile, belch forth flame and smoke and recoil il"
set on a smooth surface when fired. There is no danger con-
nected with it and it makes the shooting of firecrackers safe.
The little folks may use this project as a toy after it has
been used for celebrating the Fourth.

Make A the floor and screw wheels in place. Wheels may
be cut from a piece of broom handle. Or wooden button
molds may be used. Button molds make ideal wheels as they
are already bored.

Next make th^ carriage and fasten to A. Use 1" brmls
for assembling.

Now make the barrel. Square stock to size and draw
diagonals to locate the center. With dividers or pencil com-
pass from the center just located at the muzzle, draw a %"
circle. Then bore a %" hole about 1 inch deep in the breach
of the barrel. Remove the bit and bore through the barrel

fn.ni the muzzle till the holes meet. Use a rat tail lile or
sandpaper on a pencil to smooth hole.

Draw a line around the barrel two inches from the
breach and from this line plane or whittle the barrel round
to the %" circle. Chamfer the breach end and fasten the
barrel in place with %" No. 7 round-head screws.

Cut a piece from a tin can and on it lay out part E as
detailed. Cut after boring holes and finish with a file. Fasten
to end of barrel with 14" No. 1 round-head screws or cigar
box nails.

Disassemble all parts except the mounting and paint as
indicated. Drive a staple or screw a screw eye in the front
of part A for a string.

Open the breach by raising the tin, insert a firecracker,
leaving the fuse projecting through the hole in the tin. Light
the fuse and watch the firecracker, smoke and fire shoot from
the muzzle of the gun.

PLATE 51

in.'i

Parte

Trench Mortar

Note —

Place Firecracher
In BfjRREL Fasten Part K -
Light Fuse
£

&IMS~.

.HART C /vw/Y-f jy^o
Tf

Part B

H — 'b' — 1

tnifo

t^l^

Note- ^^'
CAfiuFLAOC. Br Combining T/it Colors

Place Washers Be twccn Mov^bl e
Parts.

Part D

1 1

(O;

inn

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

STRADDLE HORSE

As tho whole of this toy is to bo palntcil, mi>st any Kiml
of wood may be used.

Work might be started on the head. Square up an edi^'e
and one end of the piece from which you are going to make
It. Draw the squares with the try square from these sur-
faces. Lay out pattern and bore hole for D. Next lay out
patterns for C — the saddle — and saw to shape.

Make part B. In boring hole for axle F, iay out on each
odge of B and bore from rach edge. In boring from each
edge, the error, if any, is greatly reduced. Now make wheel
A, bore for axle from each side of piece. The out.side of thtj
wheel should be made true. Describe a circle on the stock
with a sharp pair of dividers, scoring rather deeply ; use this
line to work to.

The axle F is one-half inch in diameter. The hole for
tl.e axle is also one-half inch in diameter, and to make the
wheel turn easily on the axle sand the axle slightly in the
middle.

Sand all pieces well. Fasten D and C in place, then
fasten E to C with Ihit-bead screws, and to B with rouml-
head.

Before i,lacing wheel in position, paint the parts. A
.s<'heme for painting is given on the drawing. Two coats of
paint will be necessary to give the horse the real finished
appearance, but before giving the second coat, place the wheel
in position anil paint it fully assembled.

Use washers as indicated, and be sure the wheel turns
easily.

TLATK r,3

107

108

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

THE BAG PUNCHER

The first piece of this toy to malie is the base. Select a
good straight grained piece of soft pine. After planing ti>
size lay out the mortise with a marking gage and knife, I'Ut
with a chisel.

Drill holes for the wire support to hold the bag. Drill
these holes on a line 1%" from the end of the piece.

Square up piece for the man and draw squares through
which to trace the form of the man. Prepare a piece in the
same manner for the arms. Now saw to line with a coping
saw and finish with sandpaper. If you are not accustomed
to reading drawings, take note of the dotted lines projecting
from the forward foot of the man. This indicates that aljout
%" of material is to be left here.

Make a saw cut for the end of the spring or corset stay.
Also bore a hole at A for a brad.

Carve out an egg shaped piece of wood for the punchin,-^
bag with a knife and drive a staple in the top end. Now

with a pair of pliers form from a piece of wire about 12"
long the bag support.

The spring is to he made from a corset stay or piece
of clock spring. Tunch two holes in it. one to fasten to the
bottom block and the other for the block to operate the toy.

Paint the parts as desired. The bottom might be gray,
the trousers red, the shirt white, the gloves black and the
bag brown.

After the paint has thoroughly dried, assemble the parts.
Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails. The arms
must swing freely. As the body is so thin, the arms should
be fastened one a little above the other so the nail points
will not touch.

Place the foot in the mortise and fasten with a long
brad. Put cue end of the spring in the saw kerf in the foot.
Fasten the other end to tlie bottom piece with a cigar box
nail. Set the bat; support in place and operate by pressing
on the little block fastened to the spring.

PLATE 5:i

109

The Bag Puncher

*-/fi VI I re -^

CorsetStay

ClockSpmg

2 g Z ong

110

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

LOW FOLDING TABLE

This table is convenient, as the legs can be folili'd sa
the table requires little space tor storing. It is just the
proper height for a typewriter, and also for playing games
that do not require too large a surface.

The top may be made of one piece or of several pieces
glued together. In the latter case the edges should be well
jointed: Dowel pins may be used, but are not necessary, as
the parts D act as cleats.

Make two pieces liiie part D of hard wood. Plane the
ooards and lay out the design. Bore i/^-iuch holes as inili-
cated on' the drawing of this part and cut to line with a
rip saw.

Fasten these pieces to the top with screws. The end
view drawing shows the method of boring for the screws,
using a V^" bit and 3-l(!" drill. The screw should be of such
gage that it will slip through the 3-16" hole easily.

JIalve parts A, C and C next. The drawings show them
square, but this is not necessary. Round pieces of broom

handle might be used. Cut each piece to the proper length
and with a saw, knife and wood rasp work the ends round
to a diameter of %". A turning lathe or dowel cutter may
be used for forming the ends on these pieces.

The legs should be made of oak or other hard wood. They
are practically the same, except that legs N have one end
rounded and the holes for the spreaders are one inch farther
apart.

Fasten the legs to the ends of A, B and C with brads or
round-head screws, but note that legs M are not fastened to
C. If you n-.iUe the mistake of fastening them your table will
not fold.

All tenons must fit the holes. If they are too small the
table will not stand rigidly when being used.

After assembling, sandpaper well, breaking all sharp
edges. Taint bright red or finish otherwise.

PLATE 54

111

Part A

Part B

3=1

LOW FOLDING TABLE

Leg m .-f^^

-^'H

Part C

~ia

1^ -

-21'

-13

-15^'

H 16-

3 C

-IQ

112

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

LETTER RACK

This k'tter rack will he found very handy on any desk or
tabic. It need not necessarily be used for letters, It is con-
venient for holding post cards or kodak pictures.

Begin work on the bottom piece first because if yoti make
a mistake on this part it can be used for one of the smaller
pieces. After planing to size, draw center line and locate
screw holes. Lay out curves at corners with compass and
pare to line with a chisel. Bore and countersink holes foi-
screws.

Make partition next, and if it is spoiled it may be used
for a side piece. Note that only two corners are rounded 0:1
all parts except the bottom piece.

Now make the side pieces and then assemble all parts.
Be sure to bore holes for the screws, otherwise the screws will
split these thin pieces. Round-head screws are used for the
side pieces, so do not countersink the holes for them.

To locate the side pieces on the bottom plei'e. Draw a
line bisecting the center line on the bottom piece. Draw
center lines across the bottom edges of the side pieces and
hold the parts so these lines meet. With a marking awl, mark
through the hole in the side piece the location on the bottom
piece for boring for the screw.

Remove all .screws and sandpaper off all scratches and
pencil mark.s. To obtain a good job of sanding put a few
drops of oil on the sandpaper.

If gum wood is used it may be stained and given a
shellac or French polish ; or the piece may be oiled, with
boiled linseed oil, thinned with a little turpentine. Give two
coats of oil, allowing each to dry for twenty-four hours before
applying the next, then finish with wax or merely by rubbing
to a polish.

PLATE 55

J=T

I — w

-n

LETTER Rack

"-U

\^A

■^l? (:

^'rio4 F/iSCRtVJ

g- NO 4^RM SCREM

Sioe

♦

■f

f 3"

•*-;

114

HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS

SILHOUETTE CAMERA

A silhouette is an outline or profile filled in with blacU.
Some persons can cut profiles of people or objects from paper.
This work is very amusing and interesting but requires
patient practice. With the silhouette camera good results can
be produced with little practice.

Start work by making the bottom board, according to
dimensions. Make the Ijack or picture plane 8"x8".

The pedestal or 4" piece is for supporting the marking
rod. The top edge of the pedestal should bo chamfered to
allow the marking rod to move up and down freely.

Three braces are needed to stiffen the picture plane and
pedestal, which must be made very rigid in order that the
device will work ■well. Fasten the parts together with glue
and screws.

The marking rod can be made from a round or square
piece. In one end a hole is drilled about 2" deep for a piece
of wire. The size of the hole will depend on the size of wire
used. If you do not have a drill the size you want, make a
drill point from a piece of the wire. In the other end of the

rod drill a hole to fit a pencil, which must not stick in the
hole, nor move about, but must be a sliding fit. A spring is
to be inserted in the hole behind the pencil. One may be made
by winding a piece of spring wire around a peg smaller than
the hole. As the distance from the top of the pedestal to
the plane varies during the motion of the rod the spring is
necessary to keep the pencil point continuously against the
plane. Fasten the rod to the pedestal as indicated, giving It
a free up, down and sideway motion.

To operate fasten a sheet of paper to the plane with
thumb tacks, clamp or hold camera firmly to the table. Seat
person in chair so wire can be passed around profile, move
wire slowly, touching every depression.

It will be noted that the outline is made upside dcrwn.
Ri'move paper from plane, paste a piece of black tissue paper
on opposite side from outline. Cut to profile line with scissors
and paste on a piece of white mount eardlioard. Kemoving a
section of black paper with sharp knife gives appearance of
a collar.

PLATE 56

ii;

S/lhouette: Camera

116

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

SEWING COMPANION

Any mother or sister will appreciate this sewing com
panion. It is a great convenience, made to hold a thimble,
several spools of thread and a few needles and pins. Use
gum, mahogany, or walnut.

J-'or the Lottom plane up a piece %"x3i/^"x7". When
planing, marli working face and edge and make all layouts
from these surfa''es. Draw the center lines, locate holes for
pegs or dowel pins and bore tliein ; also a 3-lG" hole for the
screw to fasten part A. Lay out the depression for the
needles and pins and work out with a gouge ; finish with
sandpaper.

Draw the curved lines for cutting the ends and at the
same time the H" chamfer. Saw to line with a coping saw,
finish with a spoke shave and sandpaper. Never lay out a
chamfer or bevel with anything but a pencil. Use a plane
for cutting the chamfer. It is convenient to hold the work
in a woodtn hand screw while removing the stock.

:Make block A to hold the thimble. A peg may be
mortised into the bottom on which to hang the thimble but
the block is more convenient. The thimble can be put in the
hole or taken out, as it is dropped in upside down, with one
hand while the other is occupied holding other work. The
sides of the block can be slanted, forming a truncated pyramid.

Make dowels of same kind of wood. First plane a piece
square, then plane off the corners, making it octagonal. Con-
tinue planing corners until the piece is round. Bore a 3-16"
hole in a piece of hard wood, if you have not a dowel plate
with a hole this size, and drive the round stick through it,
smoothing the edges. Cut to length and round end so spool
will slip on easily.

Sandpaper all parts with 00 sandpaper and assemble.
Put a drop of glue on the end of each peg. If any glue ruus
over on the bottom piece wipe it oflE with a damp cloth.

Finish by rubbing with lioiled linseed oil, or stain, shellac
and wax.

PLATE 57

Sewing Companion

■^rM

•>1,

D£rAIL3 ,f BLOCnA

118

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

ORNAMENTAL GARDEN STICKS

Tho use of those garden sticks will add a loui-h to 3'our
I'.ower box or to your flower bed in the jard and wiil be very
interesting to you.

No difficulty will be found in malving them. The hardest
part is in getting good looliing outlines of the birds, and also
to get tiieni colored attractively. Th* designs submitted here
are only suggestive. The same may be s;aid of th(? colors.

Choose the design that best suits you. Select the wood
from which the stick is to be made and upon it lay out '/i-inch
■ iiquares. Through these squares trace the outline of the bird,
being careful that the lines pass through your squares in the
same relative position that they pass through the squares of
the drawing.

It will b} well to bore the hole for the suppt)rting rod
before the bird is cut to shape. Be very careful with this

latter operation. No matter how carefully you have traced
your outline, if the cutting is not done with equal care, the'
result of your efforts will not be satisfactory.

Smooth the piece with sandpaper and fasten tlie upright
in place. This latter is to be of a length suitable for the place
in which the stick is to be used. For instance, if it Is to be
used in a flower box, it should be shorter than if it is to be
used In the flower bed in the garden.

Paint the bird just as well as you can. It is not neces-
sary to use the colors suggested. If you have (lifferent or
better ideas, put them into effect.

Remem\)er that you can spoil a good job of consti-uc'tion
worlt by a poor job of painting, in other words, there is no
place in the making of these sticks that will permit of care-
less work.

PLATE 58

119

ORNA

^\ ^^ r

MENTAL Garden sticks

RaiNTINC SuccasTioNS

A - Black.
3 - Blue..
C - CRcaN.
O - Red
£ - Yellow.
Use Slack Fop Stripinc
Between CoLons

1IIP»^i't

''i

Length
To Suit.

-■^ :£■' ^^

"" '="' 3 - >^'

S'^^-i ":" ""^^

^ -- ^. - ^

^ -c ■^ a-

"^ -^ ^

S S

S^.^ _l!s^

^ ^^

- ^..

**'*'^"'''*i'"fc^'"'*^

■^ ^

'^^^'~ "*N'*r--r 1

"--■-. 1 1 JM~u)i 1 1 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 1 1

i.j - _ -____-

n ^ 'l ■■■■' ^v

." a

^ 17^ ' " 1

i'" :sZ ::;;---

^jtj -^ , 2;^f?^

nft>l L^pHtllU^

^y c I \ 1 v\

[ ^5. ■-:2._ -

e^-'^--^^Ai»j : ;

>l ' -hpf

^^5^" ?i.X^. . t-

_L _i^ zi

2E^^ a-.i'' '

•\ ' ^^Zl _

A'^i f :

\ - -^s -- --

^ I'

^^ _?s^

t- v^

---^-r-- = :!t5>.-

' _S^

^ 1

120

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

MOUSE TRAP

This slinpli' trail has a bottom, two sUlos and a door,
with a tin can fastened to the l)ottoni lietween the two sides.

The door Is made as shown in the drawing and hinged
to sides by two 9i" brads. The door stop is fastened to the
door 1-16" from bottom, with 1-inch lirads driven through
stop and door and clinched on inside of the latter. A screw
eye is screwed into one end of the door stop, another al)out
IV2" from the back of one side, and a rubber band stretched
between. This acts as a spring and closes the door when the
hooli is released by the mouse pulling at the bait. The hook
driven in the top of the door is made as follows : Drive a
1%" No. 18 brad in place, cut off the head with a pair of
pUers er file, and with the pliers bend as shown.

The information for niaking bottom and sides can be
easilj' learned from the dra\\'ing. Assi'jnble with 1-inch brads.

The can used for this trap was a baking powder can, and
to fit the dimensions given, must be three inches io diameter

antl five Inches deep. If you wish to use a larger can, increase
the iliniensions of the other parts of the trap accordingly.

Fasten can to trap by brads driven through floor and
can stop, through th;* can, and clinched inside the can. The
can stop is to be fastened to the floor with %" brads.

The bait hook is made of heavy wire, foraied as shown.
Use pliers to hold wire while bending. Make a hole in the
bottom of the can for the bait hook with a wire nail a littli?
larger gage than the wire. The door can be made to close
from the slightest touch on the bait hook if the book driven
into the top of the door is adjusted at Just the right angle.
It a piece of tin is tacked on the door directly in front of
the can opening, the mouse will not be able to gnaw his way
out through the wood door. A boy who understands how to
wire au electric bell can connect one to the trap so he will
be notified when the mouse is caught.

PLATE r.O

121

Trap OfCtn

VJiR£ Hook

=1^

TinCan

Mouse trap

5lD£

- .-J?--

Trap Closed

122

HAND. CRAFT PROJECTS

BOY*S HANDY WAGON

lliis proj'-'-l. If
wheels, iKilstcrs

;ina

Any goj(l wood may bo us;ed fur
have a choice, use hard wood for the
axles.

Make the box first. Be suie to get all your corners
square. Asseniblt- with sixpenny coinnion nnlls. JIark center
for the hole to be bored for carriage bolt, but leave the boring
until other holes of same size are to 1h' I)ored.

Next get out the bolsters and axles, marldng the centers
of the holes. Part C will require careful work in laying out.
Bore hole for the carriage bolt before cutting the tongue
groove.

Make the tongue next and mark locations for holes to be
bored. The next step can well be the boring of .the various
holes, the locations for which you have already made. Holes
that go clear through a piece should be laid out and bored
from both sides. In boring for screws, remember that two
sizes should be made — one for shank of screw and the other
for diameter at bottom of threads.

The hardest part of the construction will In- Ibe making
nf the wheels. If you have access to a turning lathe, the work
will be easy. Wheels formed according to the drawing look
better than those with flat surfaces, but if they cannot be
made that way, make them flat. If lathe and Itand saw are
not available, lay out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring
deeply. Saw as near the line as possible, finishing with a
rasp. The wheels may be hollowed ovit with a gouge. Just a
bit of patience and care is all that is required. When all
parts are made, assemble and test for proper fitting. Take
apart and sand well. The painting may be done before or
after the parts are finally put together. Sometimes it is more
convenient to paint each piece separately.

Give considerable thought to the color scheme you will
use. It is not recommended that you use a great many differ-
ent colors, but your cart will look better if you use at least
two. This gives a nice contrast. No color scheme is sug-
gested, as tastes vary a great deal, so this part of the work
is left to each individual to solve to his own satisfaction.

PLATE 00

123

Boys H/^ndy W/jcon.

M4QT£fHAL - ^NV COOO WOOO

OoftE Fan ^

C^ftai^ce Bolt

'^- -'j.?~- .„--,- > -■'■■'

BoKe ro-' "

124

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TRAVELER'S CASE

The luattTi-il for this case shoiiUl be a very ycuxl quality
of wood. .Walnut Is very attractivo and is recommended for
use If it is possii)le for you to secure it. The application of
linseed oil and later a thin coat of shellac, rubbed down
with very fine sandpaper, will give a very pleasing finish.

An examination of thi- dniwinj,' will shojiv that thi' front
part of the box is not parallel with the back part. The ends
are square witli the bacli. but thi* front makes a small angle
with them. It will require careful work to get good joints,
and the attractiveness of the box is dependent upon the
quality of your work.

From the drawing it will lie seen that the bottom is \i"
thick, 1%" wide- at one end and 1%" wide at the other, and
7" long. The ends are square with the back edge. Reduce
this piece to the required dimensions, and then the side pieces,
front and back. It will be well to fasten these pieces tempo-
rarily in place in order to fit the end pieces. The dimensions
for these latter pieces, and for the partition A, are given

slightly oversize in order that you may have a small margin
for fitting. Fit them very carefully, remembering the caution
given above regarding the attractiveness of the box. Part C
will also have to be fitted with care, and to assist you, the
dimensions shown are slightly larger on one side. The hole
in this part is cut on a slant to give the thimble a better
support. No special suggestions are needed with regard to
this piece, or with any of the remaining pieces that go to
make up the case.

Small hinges are used between the box and the cover, and
as the material is so thin, a hinge should be selected that can
be fastened in the manner shown on the drawing.

A piece of cardboard covered with velvet and glued to
the cover provides the means for holding the scissors and
needles.

The thread is held in accordance with the explanation
given in the note — the small spool at the left end and the
others placed in the order of their size. '

™

PLATE 61

125

I- Cut To Th/J Dim^n3/on For D,
Then Pl/ine Bevel To Fit

Travelers case.

j — cardboaro
Covered With
I VELVET And
'i)? Clued To
Cover

Cut To
These
Dimensions
For -A AND 0,
Then Plane
Bevel To Fit

-=^

5 POOLS AfiE Held In
Position By Means Of
A Silk Shoe Strino
Or Ribbon Threaded
Throl/oh Them ,Ano Thc
HoL£s In The Box. The
Cover Is Held Closso
By TyiNo £nos Of
Ribbon Around Boh

iToP View Shows Cover
Turned Back

Starting At Left End Of

4 Drill -IO Holes
Section On XV

Cut To ThesE
Dimensions ,
Then Plane
To Fit.

Box, Place /OO, SO, 60 and 50 Cottoiv^ And 50 Black , In That Order

126

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

HALLOWE'EN FUN MAKERS

Fij;ure 1 shows a spool tick-tack, ma;le by cuUiug uotrh''s
on ends of a spool. Fasten to a handle about two feet long.
Tie one end of string to spool and wind the rest around it.
Hold handle in left hand and end of string in right. Press
edges of spool iigainst window pane and pull string, caiisini;
spool to revolve, thus making desired disturbance.

Another type is shown in Figure 5. It is fastened to
window pane by wetting and pressing against it. The rubber
tUsk can be obtained by breaking neck of old style pop bottle
and slipping it oflF the closing fixture. Use any flat-head
screw. Fasten to window pane, then jerk knots between first
finger and thumb nail.

Figures 3 and 4 are lanterns, made of paper shoe boxes
and tin cans or paint pails. Paste colored paper over nose,
mouth and eyes, so candle cannot be seen. Punch holes on
back, sides, top or bottom, otherwise candle wiil soon burn
nut. Figure 3 shows a method of keeping cover on box anrl
also how to make an eye wink by making a shutter from card-
board, a njbber band, a paper fastener v,ud a piece of string.

For Figure (I take a shingle nail and drive through bottom
of can at center. Tie a piece of string three feet long to nail.
Thread other en<i through hole from inside of can. Tie knots
near end of string and rub rosin into it. Hold can in left
hand and draw knots through thumb and first finger.

Figure 7 is the snake trick. Use an old stocking stuffed
with grass, and a piece of strong twine. Throw over limb of
a tree and drop from above, or draw across sidewalk.

Prepare for Figure 2 befor.* dark. Drive a nail in top
of window frame. Tie a piece of black thread to nail, ari<l
a button on thread about IS" from nail. After dark climlt
up in a tree with thread in h^nd. Let button swing against
window. If anyone opens window, draw button iip out of
sight. The horseshoe nail trick is worked the same as Figure
G, only a longer and stronger cord is required. The end of
horseshoe nail is slipped under the edge of clapl)oard on
house, and if plenty of rosin is rubbed on cord, the owner
will soon think every board Is being ripped from his house.

PLATE fi-

F,q I

Hallowe"£:n Fun Makers

F,q S

Knots

Stnng

St fin f-^ ^'

Ro3irr»n<i Knots

Rubber Bottle

Stopptrf

Rosm ^ Knofs,

■ \

Point Po//

fi3 4-

128

HAND CRAFT PROTECTS

WIND MILL AND ACROBAT

A common tcn-cciit storo roping sav/ ami a goovi -sliarp
Jacl! knife are all the tools rciiuircd to make this toy.

Select two straight srainod pieces for the blades. Lay
I'lit with a pencil, and after cutting the half lap joints, form
the blades to shape indicated. Fasten together with iirads,
and also brad a block on the back of mill for the small pulley.
Drill a small hole at center of mill for a nail or a screw.
The hole should be large enough to permit the mill to turn
freely. An empty buttonhole twist spool may be used for
the pulley, or it can be made. With a Jacli'knife i-i,",iie grooves
for the lielt, then fasten to the block. Next make the vane
and the piece that holds it. Fasten together with lirads.

Make the parts that hold the pulley shaft in place, hut
do not fasten in position until the shaft is made and fitted to
them. The shaft will require careful and accurate work with
the knife.

Work nut larce inilley and make thi' hole in it such a size
that it will mak-> a press tit on the shaft, .\sscmble parts

just made and fasten in iiIm'-c so [)ulieys are in line; that is,
one exactly above the other.

Make the parts for the man next. These may be made
from cigar bo.-;es if desired. Lay oH squares and trace in the
■ atterns. Cut to shape with coping saw and fasten together
with wire or long Iiank pins. The parts should fit loosely.

After assembling all parts, mount on the upright piece at
the point of balance. A rubber liand will make a good belt
for tile pulleys, as thr- rain will not aiTect it. If necessary to
use cotton string, rub beeswax or paraffine on it.

All the bearings should 1)0 well oiled to i)ro(luce good
action and do away with as miu-h friction as possiId(\ The
parts can be painted to suit, but be careful that no paint gets
lietwoen any of the moving parts.

Mount windmill on the peak of a shed or top of any post
that is located out in the open so the wind can get a good
chance to turn the blades. The antics will be highly amusing
to your friends and to yourself.

PLATE 63

r-"j

\NiND Mill And Acrob/\t

G\ .■ BO

ARI^

* f

il*

^ 1

^jn,

/ \

\ '

\ *

', .

V'-

■t£

*«^

-■'

V —

—

•\

Pulley Shaft

Blade

h'.

Small Pulley_

'Hi-

130

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

PIN AND BALL GAME

Use any wood you have at your disposal, hut get as
straight grained wood for the uprights as you can.

Make the base first. The mortises should be laid out and
cut from both sides of the piece. Unless this method Is fol-
lowed the mortises will not l)e straight through.

Parts B are not hard to make. The tenons cut on these
pieces are to fit the mortises in A, so lay out and cut them
accordingly.

Part C is always easy to make. In laying out all these
pieces thus far, remember that they should be laid out accord-
ing to the way the dimensions read on the drawing; ihat Is,
from the center of the piece.

The hardest part of the t-onstruction will be the making
of the pin. If you have a turning lathe, the job will be very
easy, but as most boys do not have one available, it will have
to be fashioned by other means. It will not be difficult to
plane a piece to lYj Inches in diameter. On u piece the

required length, describe two IMs" circles, one on each end.
Also on one end, with same center, describe a circle 1 inch
in diameter. Plane off the stock until .you have a cylinder
1% Inches diameter. From this step it will be necessary to
work with a good sharp knife. Good work cau be accom-
plished by combining a little patience and care.

Sand well and assemble. Place uprights In mortises anil
fasten C to the tops by means of l>rads. The piece may be
stained or painted as desired.

The ball to be used may be a rubber or a wooden one.
Insert a screw eye as shown, and adjust string to such a
length that the ball will strike the round top of the pin
about in the center.

It will very likely seem easy to knock the pin over with
the ball, and no doul)t it would be easy if the aim was to
knock it over on the forward swing. But that is not the Idea.
The ball Is to be drawn toward yi>u, then released so the pin
is knocked down on the return swing. Try It.

PLATE 64

131

^ M/3TCM

But Without Pin tr~j PL^ace

L * O •

■ 3 TRINO

Pin xn^D Bajll Gajme.

(/}) t1/^nl Out

(S) MftKt Two

-n-

"n>

~'ii

■n

— \i\-

7b OPCfvoTt - pL^ct. Pin

fX/OCTLY O^ PnQ/NTeO

dacLt Pull Bo^u. fof*-
\WiRO ^/vD RELt^St

So ir 5 rmtHC s f^^
Qv Return Sw/mq

:iij

Af/g T£ftl^L —
>7/VK Coco V^/OQO

».>■.

H'^^

tf^..-:r

-lyt 'szi^

flAKt OK

!33

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

SAIL BOAT

The making of this iiioilol will rcquiro thir exercise of
somo Inilividual tliouglit on tlic ii;irt uf the niaki i-. The gen-
eral (liincnsiiins are very ilearly shown, but the shaping of
the hull will require thi' expression of inilividual thought.

The making of the hull shouM n-ceive attention first.
Selei-t a light wood, as strai.!;ht grained as possible to permit
of ease in forming to shape. A solid piece may Iic'used, but
if this is not available, the hull may be built up of several
pieces as shown in the drawing. Get out the stock to the
overall dimensions, then lay out the shape. The part to be
removed in the center is shown by the dotted lines in the
front and end views. The section view will alsb assist in
understanding the shape desired. The removal of this stock
will be of material service in lightening the boat. The Ulimen-
sions for the outline of the hull will be found in the view
immediately above the front view. This gives the dimensions
for the shape crosswise of the hull. The other necessary
dimensions will be found in the other views. When your hull

is shaped to .vtuir satisfaction,
tain rod.

bore the bcrle lor the

Parts B, I'", (i and II should be given carel'iil atleiitioo.
They should be made Just as round as it is possible to make
them. Do not slight these parts. Part D will be found more
diflicult than those just mentioned and will require the skillful
use of a sharp knife. Part C is made from wire, carefully
twisted, as shown in the detail drawing. The rudder post
should be made so it will lit the hollow curtain pole, but
loosely enough to permit it to turn. The method of holding
G and II together is shown right near the assembly of these
parts,^ — by means of a piece of wire twisted lo the shape of
a figure eight.

The assembling of the parts can be easily understood
from the drawing. To preserve the boat, and also to add to
its attractiveness, it should be well painted. The color scheme
is to be left to the personal taste of the one who makes
the boat.

PLATK 65

134

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CHAIR LAMP

This is an exceedingly fine piece to add to the home.
The comfort derived from its u.?e will amply repay one for
the time spent in its construction.

First, make the upright. Select two pieces of wood of
required thickness, get tint; out the width to about Vo-inch
more than finished size. Smooth one broad surface and
square one edge only on each piece. If you have a combina-
tion plane, the grooves in the center can be easily made, but
as you will not likely have this tool at hand, another method
will have to W used. From the edges just squared up, gage
lines on the smooth surface the required distance from edge,
so the ^^roove will I e in the center when finished. Gage
deeply as possible. Chisel out the groove to required depth —
3-lGth-inch in each pip<'e. Next slightly roughen the edges
that are to join. When ready, apply glut*, clamp together and
set away to dry.

While waiting for the upright, make a pattern for the
supports. Lny out on wood selected for them and with a

turning saw cut them to shape. It will be well, however, lu
locate and bore holes for' the dowels before the cutting to
shape is done. This will give good, sharp edges oli tin-
slanting edge.

Next make the cap, then take up unfinished work on up
right. First square up to largest dimensions and then lay
out and plane taper. Lay out and bore holes for dowels.
After this, assemble the parts and make any necessary adjust-
ments at this time. When done to your satisfLutiiiu, sand all
pieces very carefully.

If oak Is used, or any other wood that will take a stain
satisfactorily, select stain you wish and apply It, finishing
with a thin coat of shellac and wax. If soft wood Is used,
thn lamp may be painted.

The electrical fixtures can be secured from any electrical
supply store.

PLATE fir.

135

Chair Lamp.

staff - maKc one

Sup par i-
HaHe four

Cap.

f^ake one "

Bore

. to fit
pipe

' -i

136

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

LEG REST

Two typi'S of joints arc usoil in tlic i-onstriK-tiuu of this
leg rest. Both ni'ed careful work in layiug out anil cutting.
The one on part A is called a keyed mortise and tenon, while
the one at thi' top of part I> is called a housed or dodo joint.

Make out your lumber liill and proceed to get out yuuj-
stock to required dimensions. Parts 13 and (.' can he reduced
to size at once. Part A should be an inch or more longer
than the finished piece, (iet out part D to length and to
the greater width, leaving the taper tj be planed later.

Use a knife and gage in laying out the various joints —
the knife across grain and the gage with grain. Lay out the
mortises first in part D into which the tenons on part A fit.
At the same time lay out the groove for the end of \. Cut
first the mortises that go clear through parts D, then cut
groove for the housed joint. Mortises that go clear through
a piece should be laid out on both sides, to insure the cutting
being straight. Next lay out and cut the groove at top of D
for the ends of B.

r.c careful in layiug out the tenon and the small mortise
ill the ends of A. Remembering that the stock is lougi-r tlian
the finished size, all work should be iaitl out from the center
of the piece lengthwise. After cutting is done and the fit
satisfactory, the excess stock may be removed, it being left
on to prevent .splittinj; o;' wood when fitting joint. ENamine
carefully details relating to joint at Y. No trouble should be
experienced with this if drawing of parts is carefully studied.

When all parts have been cut to size, test by fitting them
together. When satisfied with them, take apart, lay out ami
cut the taper on parts D. Next lay out and cut the chamfers
which extend entirely around outside edges only. Sand-
paper well.

If oak is used, apply stain and finish with a thin coat of
shellac and then wax. S-'hould you be fortunate enough to
have walnut to make the piece from, apply boiled linseed oil
thinned slightly with turpentine, which will make it penetrate
better. When dry, apply a, thin coat of shellac. Sandpaper
slightly and wax.

I'LATE 1,7

137

. L

Leg Rest

DGtail
CQ of Aey

JIfl

fe^t

-so.

"^l^

/A '

/fey

-aa-

Dctail of mortise
and tenon at A.

138

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BULL DOG

A coping saw or a turning saw will be nordi'il for tlii>
work. A power band saw would permit of the work being
done more easily, but most boys have not this tool availabii'.

It will first be necessary to lay out patterns for different
parts. This is don>' liy means of the Vi-inoh squares as shown.
Make your patterns with care, for successful work will depend
upon h'jw well the parts are shaped. Be sure to locate on
patterns points at which holes for screws are to he liored and
transfer these accurately to the stock itself. In this way it
will be possible to have the locations of the various holes
made unitormly so that when the legs and ears are fastened
in place, they will work correctly.

When your patterns are laid out to your satisfaction,
transfer them to stock from which parts are to be made. Ne.xt
cut to shape, being careful to follow lines of pattern.

Round-head screws are to be used for fastening legs and
ears to body. Select size you will use and then bore holes of
proper size for them. A double end or dowel screw is used
lo fasten heed and collar to body. Ordinary screws may be

uscil, but it will be found much more convenient to use
double end kind. This is first tnrne<l into place in body, then
<<»Ilar is slipped over it and fastened with a couple of brads
to keep it from turning, then head is turned on end of screw
that projects from body.

Washers should be used between legs and body, also be-
tween ears and body. It will be well to have washers between
head of the .screw and legs and ears. When all parts are
ready, assemble and test. If everything is all right, measure
distance between legs. Lay out grooves on cart according
to this measurement.

Next make cart, laying out grooves as above stated. The
fit of legs in grooves should be snug enough to hold dog in
position. Wheels should be carefully laid out and cut, as it
is Important that they be perfectly round. If desired, large
wooden button forms may be bought at a department store
and used for wheels. When all parts are well sanded, painting
is next in order. Take dog and cart apart for this operation.
L'se scheme suggested on drawing.

PLATE 6S

130

r^Af^E One

Bull Dog

Make Two

Fa^teaj Collar A/^d Head

To BoDf Wi'TH Double q

End Schew

— Paint —
Dog-White, ^pot Olack
Caat ■ Red.

tiAH£ GfioovMS To Fit CortPttTeo Do&
* ^

sA/ASHEfi I'-RJ-I. Screw I^Qta

140 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

CHRISTMAS TREE STAND

The Christmas tree stand is to be painted either red or The parts can be fast,*ned together with screws or nails,

green, and so anj' scraps of wood may be used — even pieces as yon wish.

with linots, as tlie paint will cover them. . ■ , ^ „

I'lane a piece long enough to make all four feet, part B,

One edge and the end that Joins the other part imist 1)h and then cut to length. The feet are fastened to the other

absolutely square to produce a good job. parts with bi'ads.

Plane up all tour pieces to size, and then cut the corners If the tree is too large In til hole, cut so it will fit, ami

according to the drawing. if too small make wedges to fit corners.

PLATE 69

141

Christm/is Tree St/^nd

-10

i<V

-10

3
4

i=h

PfiRT B

142

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

BABY AUTO CAR

This car was designed for a small child, especially one
who is not old enough to guide the ordinary three-wheeled
oar without tipping it over. Steering handle of car only
allows frout wheels to turn a certain distance, because then
it strikes the side of hood, and in this position the car can-
n*t turn over.

When being pushed about the living rooms it cannot mar
the furniture. The child's legs protect any object the side of
the car is likely to touch, the bumper covered with a rubber
hose protects objects that the front might come in contact
with, and the front wheels are set back of bumper.

A young child soon gets tired propelling a car and by
slipping in place the handle fastened with a stove bolt, the
attendant can pull the oar as she would any cart. As the
child grows, the car can be raised by substituting larger
wheels.

Soft wood may be imeri for all parts, but it is suggested
that axles and wheels be made of' hardwood.

Hole for steering gear can be bored with an expansive bit

or cut with a key-hole saw. Fasten together parts of the
steering gear and steering handle with scre\ys.

Fasten wheels to axles with i^-itnt-h lag screws. Placf
a washer between head of screw and wheel, also between
wheel and axle.

The 36-inch handl- is fastened to front axle with common
iron angfle irons.

Paint seat and wheels red, hood black and stripe wheels
and hood with yellow. Other combinations of colors may be
used.

PLATE 70

m:i

Baby Au to Car

^^\y^^^'^

Pattbrn of Hoop , \_ 4- ^ Front Axle

0*4-

Dish

^ ' -'" -(hi-'

Stecrinq Part

^V^.'i 1^-

H'4i^ .. I

S^ Axle

[7?0

(?)

Braces

144

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

FLY TRAP

For the fly trap, first make corner popts wliirh are LI
inches long. Next make the bottom board, cut out center and
also cornere for posts. Now make the four top rails to bn
nailed to the upper ends of posts.

Lay out on paper the cone pattern and cut. Place pat-
tern on wire cloth and cut cloth. Lace edges of wire cloth
together with a piece of wire drawn from wire cloth, form-
ing cone.

Fasten wire cone to bottom board with tacks. Use a
two or three-ounce tack. Nail bottom board in place and then
the top rails.

f'nver trap with win- » lotli, jr)iTiing the ends on one
corner post.

Make the top board. This piece must be fastened so it
can easily be removed to empty the dead flies.

Set trap where flies are noticeable, placing a saucer of
sua;ar and water or other material attractive to flies under
opening in the bottom board. The flies will crawl under trap
to feed, and after feeding will fly up on cone instead of going
out as they came. They will walk up to the small opening
ill point of rone and throuiih it into the trap. Not Iteing able
to find the opening through which they came, they are caught
for your disposal.

PLATE 71

145

Fly Trap

Bottom Bo/iRD

146

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

PLANT BOX

Plant boxes are subjected to the action of much moisture,
and for this reason a material should be chosen that will
resist this action as much as possible. Cypress more than
any other wood will fulfill this requirement, and if it is pos-
sible to secure it, should be used.

No great difficulty will be encountered In making this box.
The making of two slots in the ends for hand-holds will be
best accomplished by first boring holes of the right size for
the ends of slots and removing remainder of material with a
chisel.

Holes should be bored in the bottom to provide a means
for the surplus water to escape when contents of the box are
watered.

Assembling should be very carefully done. It is recom-
mended that screws be used for fastening all parts together —
llat-head screws for bottom and round-head screws for sides.
Notice direction of rings of growth in side, pieces and fasten
them to end supports so the crown of the board, which will
result when it warps, will be out. If it is placed so the
crown is in. the warping of pieces will cause top and bottom
edges to curl outward, destroying the neat appearance of
the box.

Boxes should be painted first, as a matter of appearance
and second, to aid in resisting the action of the weather, i
(lark shade of green paint will give excellent results.

PLATE 72

148

HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS

SUBMARINE

For the submarine select a soft piece of pine wood. With
a good sharp knife whittle parts F and G from a piece aljout
10 inches lon^. They can I)c sawed to proper length after
they have been formed, and by cutting them from a long
piece enough stock is availalile for holding while whittling.

Bore hole through part F for wire. Now cut part A
from any tin can. bend and tadi to parts just made. Maite
ports C and D of wood and fasten with tacks to A.

Drive brad as indicated by dotted lines in part G and
bend head, making hook for rubber band. Bend wire and
place in part F, after which propeller is soldered to it. Do

not forget to place glass bead between propeller and part
F before soldering propeller to wire. Hook a rubber band to
end of wire and also to l)rad bent for this purpose.

Make keel, part B. and tac'k in place. Also rudder E.

Paint niod<'l to keep tin from rusting and wood from
soaking water. '

To operate submarine hold in hand and wind propeller
by handle. When rubber band is wound tight, and rudder
is s<'t, place in water, and it w'ili dive. The angle will depend
on the angle at which rudder is bent.

PLATE ri!

149

Submarine

Rudder E

hi) I

Propeller

PartF

^^SA

>SH)

Wood

/r^/. a

D-25

Pefiscepe
L i'j Woorf

.^ ^la^^o ---i N

^ z

% e-<o^-^v>'a^'^^^'<M£!'^* «&•«»> -1

' laf^e Rub^ef Bond

Solder Vlire To Propeller

P/^ar A

Tjn

L y-^ .

VJqpd

150

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

PHONOGRAPH DANCER

The phonograph Uanocr Is not hard to make although it
must bo construotf'd accurately to work well.

First make Ijoard to which blocks are fastened; it may
be made of cigar box lumber. Next make blocks and fasten
In place with cigar box nails. The blocks are lettered D and E.

Now bore a hole through either a square or round piece

C to fit a meat skewer, which usually comes with a roast and

is the shape and size of a slate pencil. Bore a hole in the
bottom board to receive C and glue it in place.

Make part A. cutting with a jack knife. Bore a hole at
-center, that tits the spindle that holds the phonograph record.

The spindle must lit hole tightly. ^lake peg V. and glue in
the bottom board. It must fit in A loosely.

Cut a clothes pin for body of the man as shown In the
drawing, and l>ore a hole in which to glue the skewer stick.
Make arms and legs of cardtioard and fasten to body ^\ith
cigar box nails.

Pa;nt all parts with water colors. A poor job of painting
may spoil the appearance of the dancer.

To operate, place record on spiuiUc. Place part A on
spindle and pi'g B in hole with D resting on box outside of
revolving record. Now drop end of skewer in C and as the
point runs up and down in cuts made in A the man will danco
and cut all kinds jf funny capers.

PLATE 74

ISJ

152

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

TELEPHONE SCREEN

An article of this kind should he rather delkato lu appear
ance, and for this reason the stock used is but %-lnch thick.
This Is thin enough to look well, and yet will permit of sul)
stantlal construction.

The kind of material to be used will depend upon thi'
hnlsh jou wish to give it. Staining and painting are both
attractive. If it is to be stained, a wood having an interest
ing grain should be used. If painting is to be the finishing
method, a wood with little or no grain may I)e used.

Get out all the pieces to the greatest dimensions Indi-
cated. Pieces that have edges that are not parallel to each
other should lie cut to shape after assembling is done. All
Joints are to be half lap. These are not difficult to make and
good results should be attained. Lay out and cut them very
accurately. W'h'^n you think the work is sati.sfactorily done,
put parts together, and cut out inside corners to fit pamus to
be used. No dimension is shown for this, as depth of cut will
depend upon kind of panel usid. For instance, if cardboard

covered with silk is used, depth will likely be less than an
eighth of an inch. Decide upon what material you wish to
use, and then cut the groove accordingly.

When all parts fit well, sand and glue together. The stock
is so thin that brads cau hardly l>e used, so pieces will have
to he clamped together until dry. When glue has set, the-
two side pieces should be cut to match slant at top of main
section. Sand any rough places and then fit the hinges.
Staining can be done w"ith the hinges in place, or they may
be removed.

Finishing should be such as to match the material used
for the panels. Staining or painting is satisfactory. The
screen from which this drawing was made hail a panel of silk
with a .lapanese effect. There were Ifiack spots in design, body
lieing yellow. Black enamel was used on frame and inside of
hand-hold at top was painted yellow. The effect was very
pleasing. A little study will bring out many possibilities.

PLATE 75

153

Section Throuoh AB

Telephone, screen.

Paint
Or 3t/>in
Frame To
Suit Kind
Of Wood
And P^ncl
Useo

P-ANELS M ay-
Be Cardboard Cove red With
Fabric, Or Thin Wood

Hake Depth
Suitable To
A Panel Used

This ScREtN
■SiiirAOL£ To
MANf Othkr
Uaes .

y^LL Joints Half Lap

£3 SeCTloi^ TJ-iRouoH CD

INDEX

Aeroplaue Weathervuue, 64, 65.

Baby Auto Car, 142, 143.

Baby's Rocking Horse, 70, 71.

Bag runclier, lOS, 109.

Bath Kooni Cup Holder, 4«, 47.

Bits and Drilis, 21, 22.

Bob Sled, SO, SI.

Boy's Handy Wagon, 122, 123.

Boy Scout's Heliograph Outfit, 04, 95.

Brads, Screws and Fastenings. 23, 24.

Bull Dog. 138. 139.

Chair Lamp, 134, 133.
Child's Morris Chair. 40, 41.
Child's Snow Shovel, 98, 99.
Christmas Tree Stand, 140, 141.
Combination Bench Hook, 30, 37.
Common Joints, 10, 13.
Commonly Used Hardware. 15-20.
Construction Problems. 10. 12.
Crumb Tray, 84, 85.
Cutting Board, 42, 43.

Feeding Bird, 54, 55.
Finish, 25.
Fly Trap, 144, 145.
Flying Propeller, 56, 57.

Ground Scratcher. 9(j, 97.

Hallowe'en Fun Makers, 120, 127.
High Speed Drill, S2. S3.
Hula Dancers, 71, 75.

Jack Be Nimble, 92, 93.
.Tumping .Tack, 72, 73.

Kites, 100, 1(11.

Laying-Oul Tools, 26. 27.
Leg Kest, 130, l.'i7.
Letter Hack, 112, 113.
Low Folding Table. 110, 111.
Lumber, S.

Mechanical Duck, 76, 77.
Mouse Trap, 120, 121.

Ornamental Garden Sticks. 118. 119.

Personal Equipment. 8, 9.
Phonograph Dancer, 150, 151.
Pin and Ball Game, 130, 1.31.
Planes, 28, .31.

Planing and Scoring llnles, 30, 33.
Plant Box, 140, 147.
Potato Gun, 5S, 59.
Puzzles, 102, 103.

Ued Cross Amtiulaiue. 6.8, 69.

Sail Boat. 132. 1.'53.
Sandpai)er and Finish, 25.
Saws, 28. 29.

Scoring Uulea, 32.

Scout Flrenmktng Set, iS. 71).

Sewing Companion. 110. 117.

Shop Kinks and Informallou, l.*>

Shop Notes iinil Kll(|U<'tte, 7.

Silhouette Camorn, 111. ll.'i.

Simple and Sonlcinlilc King Uuldcr,

88, S7.
Skate Sharpener, 4s. i<j.
Small Carl. 00, 07.
Standanls ami ronviMillonii. 10. II.
Steam Engine. 50. .11.
Straddle Ilorse. 106, 107
Subnnirlne. 148. vp.i

Target Pistol, 90. 91.

Telephone Screen. 152, 153.

Thanksgiving C... I. bier, 62, 03.

Tools, H, 10.

Toy Cannon, 44. 4.5.

Toy Elephant. 52. 53.

Toy Pig, 38, 39.

Toy Rabbit, 88. SO.

Traveler's Case. 124, 125.

Trench Mortar. 101. 105.

Wind Mill and Acrobat, 128, r21).
Wooden Doll. 00, 01.
Work Bench, 34, 35.

156

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS

Contents of Books II and III

•Jig Saw
Wren House
Feeding Tray
Easter Chickens
Work Bench
Hissing Uaveu
Turning Saw
Easter Toy
Baby's Bed
Child's Toilet Seat
Bow Gun
Laundry Box
Invalid's Table
Little K.J Hen
Drawing Table
Umbrella Stand
Fly Swatters
Doll Costumer
Sword and Gun
Grocery List
Hammock
Clock Case
Double Windmill
Glider SHng Shot
Jumping Jack
Smoking Cabinet
Toy A^'heelbarrow
Turning Lathe
Blue Bird House
Bank

Dressing Table
Shoe Shine Cabinet

Test Tube Hack
Fire Side Bench
Christmas Tree Table
Floor Lamp
Nursery Chair
Box Wheelbarrow
Mail Box Automatic
Doctor Quack
Mule and Kider
Toy Wagon
Salt Shaker Holder
Toy Wheelbarrow-
Game of Hearts
Dart Game
Flour Box
Tonel Rack
Bread Board
Bingo Stick
Wood Pincers
String Winder and Cutter
Scout's Belt Kit
Door Weight
Martin Plouse
Sewing Cabinet
Toy Giral'fe
Drill Tress
Ttimbling Toby
Caning

Typewriter Table
Toy Box
Book Ends
Fireless Cooker Support

Japanese Chair

Fighting Bull Dogs

Tea Shooter

Doll Cradle

Tin Can Engine

Dancing Jim

Nail Box

Newspaper Hohler

Bird Houses

Cold Box

Robin and Wren Box

Match Box

Piano Bench

Child's Coloniiil Chair and

Table
Marble Game
Aeroplane
Pencil Box
^^'indow■ Screen
Lemonade Stand
Frame for Child's .>wing
Paint Remover
Doll Costumer
Book Trough
Doll's High Chair
Toy Goat
Baby's Bed
String Winder
Gej'ser
Match Box
Auto Creeper
Teddy Bear Blacksmiths

Plant Box

Sidewalk Coaster

Hammock

Foot Bench

Bob Sled

Arm Chair

Magazine Stand

Dutch Windmill

Candle Holder and Bank

Shoe Polishing Stand

Bank

How to Can? a Seat

Doll Cab

Tooth Pick Toys

Game of Hearts

Book Trough and Shelf

George Washingti-n Toy

Christmas Tree Table

Shoe Brush Holder

Watch Holder

Ball Holder

Sling Shot Glider

Waten Gun

Doll Cradle

Window Ventilator

Fourth ot July Outfit

Sprinkler

Doll House

Turning Saw

Tooth 7'asteand Brush Holder

Footmobile

Tin Lined Plant Box

HAND CRAFT PROJECTS '"

Contents of Books II and III — Concluded

Flag Holder Solitaire Auto Tnii-k Hook Siipporm

Sewinf? Cciniiiiun.m Child's Tea Cart Broinii Holder Mlknd" I'liizli-

Fire Side Seat Scarf Pin Holder Clirlslniaa Uei ■iriilimi TrclllB

Tool Case Lap Board T.ihnrith Dart niid Tnrp't <;nii.p

Child's Wash Beiieh Medicine Caliinet Kat Trap DoH'k Swlnc

Doll Bed Picture Krame Towel Holder And I'life'eii of Inforuiiitlon

Taint and Shellac Can Armoured Car Clocli Case

Thesa projects can be had in card form for class work.

They are put up in sets, a list of which will be sent
on application.

The Uiucf Publishing Co., Milwaukee. Wis.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

Los Angeles
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.

NOV 2 41986

3 1158 01126 4511

6 000

003 246

^:€««ii^^

STACQ >

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