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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
GEORGE  HOLL 

1000. 

irewr 


HOME    STUDIES. 


BY 


REBECCA    A.    UPTON. 


"  In  every  form  of  government  the  enduring  element  is  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
eoU."  —  Quarterly  Review,  Vol.  XLIV.  No.  II.  Art.  VIII. 


BOSTON: 
CROSBY,    NICHOLS,    AND    COMPANY. 

LONDON: 
SAMPSON  LOW,  SON,  AND  COMPANY. 

1856. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  j-rar  1856,  by 

II.    A.    UPTON, 
in  tlic  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


CAMBRIDGE  : 

STEREOTYPED   AND  PRINTED  BY  METCALP  ANO   COMPANY. 


TX.-us 


PREFACE. 


THE  present  volume  is  made  up  from  the  gleanings  of  a 
lifetime.  "Whenever  facts  and  every-day  phenomena  have 
forced  themselves  on  my  attention,  whether  in  books  or  ac- 
tual experience,  I  have  noted  them  down  in  a  commonplace- 
book.  These  gleanings  have  nothing  but  plain  language  and 
practical  usefulness  to  recommend  them,  verbal  nicety  and 
literary  ornament  being  no  way  suited  to  my  purpose. 

My  principal  objects  have  been  to  bring  into  the  compass  of 
one  small  volume  such  information  as  may  be  useful  to  both 
housekeeper  and  gardener,  whether  residing  in  village,  coun- 
try, or  city,  and  to  keep  in  mind  through  the  whole  work  the 
various  fortunes  of  the  American  woman,  whose  life  is  often 
partly  spent  in  cities,  partly  on  Western  prairies,  and  partly 
on  Southern  plantations, — perhaps  begun  in  affluence,  to  be 
finally  shorn  of  all  but  health,  hands,  and  unfailing  courage. 

The  receipts  I  have  given  I  know  to  be  good.  Almost  all 
are  original,  that  is,  of  family  origin,  —  not  taken  from  books. 
A  few  have  been  given  me  by  friends. 

If  the  work  should  have  any  influence,  however  small,  on 
the  tendencies  of  the  present  day,  not  only  to  increase  the 


IV  PREFACE. 

number  of  manual  employments,  but  also  to  widen  the  hori- 
zon of  observation,  for  woman,  I  shall  be  happy.  The  imagi- 
nations and  feelings  of  women  are  sufficiently  cultivated ;  but 
perhaps  common  sense  is  less  so,  because  it  finds  less  stimu- 
lus for  action  in  the  present  partial  education  and  cramped 
position  of  women.  Novels,  poetry,  and  excitement-meetings 
may  all  be  very  well  as  occasional  mental  condiments,  but 
when  offered  as  the  only  diet  to  the  sex  whose  nervous  con- 
stitution is  proverbially  sensitive,  it  may  lead  the  physician 
and  philanthropist  to  doubt  whether  these  kinds  of  mental 
dietetics  do  not  produce  much  of  that  nervousness,  insanity, 
and  hopeless  hypochondriasis,  which  cause  humanity  to  war 
with  itself  both  within  and  without. 

E.  A.  UPTON. 


HOME    STUDIES. 


AC  ATE  R,  n.  An  old  English  word.  A  provider,  ca- 
terer, or  purchaser  of  provisions.  An  acater,  to  understand 
his  or  her  business,  should  know  which  meats  and  vegetable? 
best  consort  with  certain  seasons  ;  how  to  choose  young 
chickens,  by  trying  the  flesh  under  the  wing,  seeing  if  the 
breast-bone  yields  to  the  touch,  if  the  scales  on  the  leg  be 
smooth,  and  the  spurs  scarcely  budded,  and  the  claws  tender 
and  short ;  how  to  select  healthy  meats,  by  rejecting  such  as 
show  a  yellow,  diseased  appearance  in  the  fatty  portions,  or 
a  spotted,  unequal  surface,  as  if  indifferently  bled,  or  coarse, 
loose  fibre,  indicating  poor  feed.  A  good  acater  should  make 
himself  familiar  with  the  most  reliable  brands  for  flour ;  the 
choicest  varieties  of  apples  for  dessert,  and  also  for  culinary 
preparations  ;  the  difference  between  dry,  unadulterated 
sugar,  and  that  which  is  the  refuse  of  the  sugar-factory,  — 
between  acid  and  fermenting  molasses,  and  rich,  wholesome 
sirup.  In  short,  a  good  acater  and  caterer  should  have  good 
sense,  nice  observation,  be  something  of  a  chemist,  and  a 
little  of  a  Yankee. 

ACCOMPANIMENT,   n.      That   which*  accompanies. 
(Worcester.)      This  word  seems  to  be  principally  devoted 
to  the  musical  and  culinary  arts.    One  axiom  with  the  house- 
keeper is  never  to  have  insipid  meats  accompanied  with 
1 


2  ACCOMPANIMENT. 

insipid  vegetables.  Veal  is,  therefore,  relieved  by  lemon, 
horseradish,  pungent  salads,  pickles,  and  piquant  condiment?. 
Young  onions,  cabbage  salad,  water-cresses,  and  lettuce, 
owing  to  their  bitter  properties,  are  desirable  accompani- 
ments for  veal.  This  acrimonious  property  should,  however, 
be  mitigated,  by  soaking  such  vegetables,  before  cooking, 
about  half  an  hour  in  cold  water. 

A  Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  should  be  accompanied  by  mashed 
turnips  and  caper  sauce. 

Roasted  Mutton  and  Venison  require  currant  or  grape 


Mutton  stuffed  and  baked,  or  stewed,  should  have  tomato 
sauce. 

Roasted  Turkey  is  usually  served  accompanied  by  a  slice 
of  boiled  smoked  tongue,  celery,  and  cranberry  jelly.  Mush- 
rooms and  mushroom  sauce  are  always  desirable  with  roasted 
poultry  and  game. 

Boiled  Turkey,  with  oyster  sauce  ;  cauliflower,  if  in  season. 

Roasted  Goose,  with  apple  sauce  and  onions. 

Roasted  Chicken,  with  stewed  tomatoes,  summer-squash, 
salsify  fritters,  and  rice  croquets.  If  out  of  season  for  sum- 
mer-squash and  salsify,  rice  croquets,  onions,  and  tomatoes 
are  all  desirable  accompaniments.  Tomatoes  are  easily 
preserved  in  tin  canisters,  kept  air-tight,  through  the  win- 
ter. Celery  should,  if  possible,  always  be  on  the  table  with 
roasted  chicken  ;  asparagus,  if  in  season. 

Boiled  Chicken,  with  egg  sauce  or  oyster  sauce,  or  parsley 
sauce.  A  small  bit  of  sweet,  young  pork  boiled  with  it. 
Asparagus,  if  in  season. 

Roast  Beef,  with  macaroni,  hominy,  boiled  rice,  if  in 
winter,  squasli  ;  tomatoes. 

Boiled  Beef,  with  carrots,  cabbage,  parsnips. 

Roasted  Duck  and  Game,  with  currant  jelly,  mushroom 
sauce,  and  onions. 


ACCOUNT-BOOK.  3 

Boiled  Salt  Codfish  is  accompanied  with  carrots,  beets, 
and  onions,  with  egg  sauce  and  melted  pork  gravy,  com- 
monly known  as  dip. 

Tongues  and  Sounds  are  served  with  the  same  vegetables 
and  sauces. 

Fried  Fish  are  mostly  served  with  crisped  parsley. 

Baked  Fish,  with  anchovy  sauce ;  pickles  and  lemons 
being  always  on  the  table. 

Boiled  Salmon,  with  caper  sauce,  egg  sauce,  and  anchovy 
sauce. 

Potatoes  and  artichokes  are  served,  in  their  various  ways, 
with  most  dishes,  though  with  plain  boiled  dishes  mashed 
or  fried  potatoes  would  be  an  anomaly.  They  are  simply 
boiled  whole  for  such  dishes. 

Of  course,  these  are  merely  suggestions ;  and  offered  prin- 
cipally to  the  young  housekeeper  as  inducements  for  her 
to  look  for  and  adhere,  whenever  compatible,  to  palatable 
affinities. 

ACCOUNT-BOOK.  A  book  containing  accounts.  Every 
housekeeper  will  find  herself  repaid  for  her  trouble  if  she 
allow  her  register  of  personal  and  "household  expenses  to 
expand  into  a  kind  of  commonplace-book.  For  example, 
if  she  live  in  the  country,  under  the  head  of  Animals,  let  her 
register  facts  with  regard  to  her  poultry,  cows,  &c.,  reserving 
several  blank  pages  to  be  filled  up  as  occasion  may  offer. 
Under  the  head  of  Plants,  reserving  the  blank  pages  as  be- 
fore, set  down  all  reliable  facts  and  observations  with  regard 
to  soil  suitable  to  a  certain  class  of  plants,  and  the  habits 
of  such  plants  as  she  may  be  cultivating;  what  class  of 
insects  infest  them,  and  by  what  means  they  are  best  de- 
stroyed. If  she  be  a  mother,  let  her  make  an  entry,  under 
the  general  head  of  Disease,  of  the  rise,  progress,  and  depart- 
ure of  different  diseases,  as  experienced  by  her  children. 


4  ACIDS. 

In  short,  whenever  any  important  fact  offers  itself,  let  it 
be  put  down  under  some  general  head,  making  an  index  at 
the  end  of  the  book  of  each  head,  and  the  number  of  the 
page  on  which  each  subject  is  placed.  This  is  the  only  safe 
way  of  being  sure  of  your  facts.  Medical  men  know  this  ; 
and  after  listening  to  statements  at  college  meetings,  they 
inquire  of  the  speaker,  Did  you  at  the  time  make  an  entry 
of  these  things  in  writing  ?  If  the  reply  is  in  the  negative, 
they  refuse  to  accept  the  matter,  whatever  it  may  be,  as 
reliable  data. 

ACIDS.  Liquids  and  substances  which  have  a  sharp 
taste,  and  the  property  of  changing  vegetable  blues  to  red. 
This  word  is  now  used  by  chemists  for  a  substance  which 
has  not  these  properties,  but  has  the  capability  of  combining 
with,  and  neutralizing,  alkalies,  various  earths,  and  metallic 
oxides,  and  in  these  forms  is  called  salts. 

In  most  plants  we  find  vegetable  acids. 

Tartaric  Acid  is  discovered  in  grapes,  tamarinds,  white 
mulberries,  dandelions,  &c.,  &c. 

Citric  Acid  exists  in  lemons,  oranges,  whortleberry,  the 
onion,  &c.,  &c. 

Malic  Acid  is  the  only  acid  detected  in  the  apple ;  -  it  is 
found  also  in  the  barberry  and  the  plum,  and  some  other 
fruits.  The  gooseberry,  currant,  cherry,  strawberry,  rasp- 
berry, admit  it  with  citric  acid.  Combined  with  lime,  it  is 
found  in  the  houseleek  and  other  plants ;  with  both  lime  and 
potash,  in  spinach,  rue,  mignonette,  and  many  other  plants. 

Benzoic  Acid  is  in  benzoin,  the  medicinal  resin  imported 
from  the  East  Indies  ;  also  in  the  balsam  which  is  extracted 
from  a  South  American  tree  called  Tolu,  in  storax,  in  an 
herb  of  the  sage  genus,  called  Clary,  in  chickpea,  &c.,  &c. 

Oxalic  Acid  is  found  in  many  common  plants  ;  in  wood- 
sorrel,  combined  with  potash ;  united  with  lime,  it  is  detected 


ACIDS.  5 

in  the  root  of  the  me.dicinal  squills,  common  rhubarb,  pars- 
ley, fennel,  &c.,  &c. 

Prussic  Acid  exists,  as  is  well  known,  in  the  kernel  of  the 
bitter  almond,  in  laurel  leaves,  peach  leaves  and  blossoms, 
&c.,  &c. 

Gallic  Acid  is  formed  in  the  common  nutgall,  which  is  an 
excrescence  formed  by  the  puncture  of  an  insect  upon  an 
Asiatic  species  of  oak ;  also  in  the  bark  of  many  trees,  viz. 
the  oak,  chestnut,  beech,  mountain-ash,  sumach,  birch,  plum, 
and  many  others. 

Besides  these  vegetable  acids,  there  are  other  acids  ex- 
tracted from  the  mineral  kingdom,  which  are  much  used  in 
the  arts.  Among  these  is  Sulphuric  Acid,  which  is  manufac- 
tured by  burning  sulphur,  which,  combined  with  soda,  forms 
the  well-known  substance,  Glauber  salts.  Sulphuric  acid  is 
much  used  in  the  bleaching  and  dyeing  processes. 

Carbonic  Acid  is  obtained  from  various  substances,  and  is 
now  produced  in  a  solid  form.  It  exists  in  common  air  in 
minute  quantities ;  in  larger  proportions  it  is  poisonous. 

Acids  and  oxygen  combine  with  copper,  and  in  this  man- 
ner poisonous  matter  is  generated.  Culinary  vessels,  if 
made  of  this  material,  should  be  lined  with  tin.  Copper- 
bottomed  ships  are  avoided  by  marine  animals  on  account 
of  the  poisonous  properties  contained  in  the  metal.  Bell- 
metal  is  copper  united  with  tin,  and,  for  the  reason  above 
assigned,  is  objectionable  for  culinary  purposes,  and,  if  used, 
must  be  kept  religiously  cleaned. 

Leaden  vessels  for  milk  have  been  known  to  produce  in- 
jurious effects.  The  air  combining  with  the  cream,  the  latter 
furthers  the  oxidation  of  the  lead,  and  carbonic  acid  being 
attracted,  a  carbonate  of  lead  (white  lead)  is  created,  which 
throws  a  poisonous  property  into  the  milk.  In  the  old 
country,  where  extensive  dairies  have  been  kept,  painter's 
colic  has  been  communicated  to  dairy-maids  through  the 
1* 


6  ACID    ACETIC. 

agency  of  these  leaden  vessels.  Zinc,  tin,  and  iron-tinned 
vessels  are  not  open  to  these  objections  ;  and  porcelain- 
lined  vessels  have  now  mostly  superseded  bell-metal  pre- 
serving-kettles. 

Acids  are  still  imperfectly  known.  The  careful  house- 
wife knows  that  they  are  powerful  agents,  and  to  be  used 
with  care.  Fat,  which  retains  its  own  in  water,  ether,  and 
alcohol,  surrenders,  by  gradually  decomposing,  when  strong 
acids  are  applied  to  it. 

ACID  ACETIC,  OR  VINEGAR,  it  is  well  known,  is 
made  mostly  from  beer,  wine,  or  cider,  by  exposing  these 
liquids  to  the  atmosphere. 

A  good  vinegar  for  home  consumption  can  be  made  by 
mixing  the  weight  of  one  part  of  strong  brown  sugar  with 
seven  parts  of  water  and  a  little  yeast,  putting  the  mixture 
into  a  cask  where  the  bung-hole  shall  be  covered  with  a 
bit  of  gauze  or  muslin,  to  keep  out  the  insects.  The  cask 
must  be  exposed  to  the  sun  and  out-door  atmosphere  for 
some  weeks. 

A  good  cider  vinegar  is  made  by  putting  one  pound  of 
white  sugar  to  a  gallon  of  cider,  and  allowing  it  to  ferment 
four  months. 

French  white-wine  vinegar  is  much  esteemed  for  domestic 
purposes. 

The  Vinaigre  d'Orleans  is  made  from  the  red  wine  of  the 
Orleannais.  Vinegars  called  Champagne  vinegars  are  often 
made  from  red  wines. 

The  excise  laws  of  England  permit  the  use  of  free  sul- 
phuric acid  to  the  amount  of  one  part  in  one  thousand,  but  it 
is  supposed  that  this  amount  is  often  increased. 

Vinegar  can  be  thoroughly  purified  by  distillation,  as  we 
find  it  in  the  transparent  distilled  vinegar  of  commerce, 
though  still  united  with  water. 


ALCOHOL.  7 

To  make  Aromatic  or  Cleansing  Vinegar,  gather  a  hand- 
ful of  lavender  leaves  and  flowers,  the  same  proportion  of 
sage  leaves  and  flowers,  hyssop,  thyme,  balm,  wormwood, 
and  savory ;  take  a  large  handful  of  salt,  and  two  cloves  of 
garlic  or  one  small  onion ;  mix  these  ingredients  together, 
and  pour  over  them  a  gallon  of  pure  white-wine  vinegar. 
Subject  this  mixture  to  a  gentle  heat  (keeping  the  vessel 
in  which  you  have  put  it  closely  covered)  for  three  weeks. 
Then  squeeze  the  herbs  over  the  liquor,  strain  it  carefully, 
and  bottle  it  for  the  sick-chamber.  It  is  a  grateful  relief  for 
sudden  fainting-fits,  and  it  is  often  beneficial  in  cases  of 
sprains  and  flesh-wounds. 

Acetic  acid,  as  observed  above,  is  found  in  many  plants 
and  in  the  sap  of  trees ;  in  almost  all  the  plants  it  exists  in 
the  form  of  salts,  such  as  the  acetate  of  lime  or  potassa. 

ALABASTER,  n.  A  carbonate  of  lime,  also  a  compact 
gypsum,  from  which  beautiful  ornaments  are  made.  One 
method  of  cleansing  alabaster  is  to  leave  it  in  pure  water 
about  ten  minutes,  and  then  rub  it  with  a  brush  dipped  in 
dry,  powdered  plaster.  Another  mode,  which  the  author 
followed  with  great  success,  cleansing  some  exquisite  Italian 
statuettes  by  the  process,  is  to  take  one  pint  of  rain-water 
mixed  with  two  ounces  of  aquafortis,  wash  the  alabaster  with 
this  liquid,  applied  with  a  fine  brush  for  about  five  minutes, 
then  rinse  it  carefully  with  rain-water,  wipe  it  dry,  and  place 
it  in  the  sun  for  two  or  three  hours.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  have  the  brush  pass  equally  over  the  surface,  so  as  to  rest 
equally  on  every  part.  The  aquafortis  should  not  be  allowed 
to  touch  the  skin,  as  it  burns  and  stains  the  flesh :  it  is  a 
heavy  liquid,  yellow  in  color,  and  contains  thirty  parts  of 
nitrogen  and  seventy  of  oxygen. 

ALCOHOL,  n.  A  liquid  obtained  by  the  distillation  of 
wine,  beer,  and  other  fermented  spirits. 


8  ALCOHOL. 

The  wine  or  wash  is  subjected  to  a  slow  heat,  and  as  the 
spirit  rises,  it  is  easily  collected  in  a  worm  surrounded  by 
cold  water.  Gin  is  thus  procured  through  the  distillation 
of  fermented  barley  or  other  grain  ;  rum,  from  molasses  ; 
brandy,  from  wine.  None  of  these  processes,  however,  elicit 
pure  alcohol,  for  the  strongest  brandy  contains  between  forty 
and  fifty  per  cent  of  water.  Impure  alcohol  can  be  im- 
proved by  repeated  Distillations,  and  by  mixing  it  with  some 
salt  that  has  a  strong  attraction  for  water,  like  the  salt  of 
tartar ;  in  this  way  it  becomes  more  concentrated  as  it  gradu- 
ally parts  with  much  of  its  water. 

Alcohol  at  its  greatest  strength  does  not  freeze,  even  in 
the  coldest  weather.  It  is  very  volatile,  boiling  at  176°  of 
Fahrenheit,  and  in  a  vacuum,  at  56°.  It  unites  with  water. 
It  is  combustible,  burning  with  a  white  flame,  without  leaving 
any  residuum. 

Alcohol  is  exceedingly  useful,  through  its  capability  of 
dissolving  vegetable  principles,  so  that  such  parts  as  contain 
medicinal  virtues  can  be  disengaged  and  preserved  by  the 
agency  of  alcohol.  Such  medicines  are  known  technically 
as  tinctures.  Science  owes  an  incalculable  debt  to  alcohol, 
as  through  what  are  called  by  anatomists  wet  preparations, 
that  is,  putting  objects  in  a  perfect  state  into  alcohol,  the 
scientific  world  sees  the  vast  collections  of  animal  and  vege- 
table structure  and  growth  preserved  in  a  perfect  state  in 
the  museums  and  college  halls  of  the  civilized  world. 

Alcohol  is  used  to  keep  venison  warm,  by  serving  it  up  on 
metal  plates,  usually  of  block-tin,  commonly  called  venison- 
blazers,  or  chafing-dishes,  which  are  hollow  in  the  centre, 
and  filling  them  with  the  spirit,  which  is  occasionally  ignited, 
at  a  small  orifice  placed  on  the  side  of  the  plate.  Alcohol 
is  also  much  used  in  lamps  placed  under  kettles,  to  keep 
liquids,  while  on  the  table,  at  a  proper  temperature. 

The  spirits  distilled  from  different  fermented  liquors.  Sir 


ALIMENT.  9 

Humphrey  Davy  says,  differ  in  .their  flavor,  for  peculiar 
odorous  matters  or  oils  rise,  in  most  cases,  with  the  alcohol. 
The  spirit  from  malt  has  a  taste  similar  to  oil,  brought 
out  by  the  distillation  of  vegetable  substances.  The  purest 
brandies  have  a  peculiar  oily  matter,  formed,  it  is  supposed, 
by  the  action  of  tartaric  acid  upon  alcohol ;  rum  owes  its 
characteristic  taste  to  a  principle  in  the  sugar-cane. 

ALE.  A  liquor  obtained  from  the  infusion  of  malt 
and  hops  by  fermentation.  The  chief  difference  between 
ale  and  beer  lies  in  the  lesser  proportion  of  hops  used 
for  ale. 

There  are  a  variety  of  ales  brewed ;  there  is  strong  ale, 
table  ale,  pale  ale,  and  brown  ale.  Pale  ale  is  made  from 
barley  or  malt  but  slightly  dried,  and  is  thought  to  be  of  a 
more  glutinous  or  viscid  quality  than  brown  ale,  which  is 
made  from  malt  which  has  been  roasted  or  thoroughly 
dried. 

Ale  is  much  lighter-colored,  more  brisk  and  sweet,  than 
beer ;  neither  has  it  the  bitter  taste  of  this  last. 

Porter  is  a  kind  of  beer  formerly  called  strong  beer. 

Beer  or  porter  malt  is  dried  at  a  higher  temperature  than 
ale  malt,  and  owes  its  deeper  color,  and  also  its  bitter  flavor, 
to  this  circums'tance. 

ALEWIVES,  n.  pi.  An  American  fish,  a  little  larger 
than  the  Scotch  herring.  This  fish  is  cured  very  nicely  on 
the  South  Shore,  Massachusetts.  It  requires  but  little  broil- 
ing over  lively  coals.  When  cooked  on  both  sides,  take 
the  skins  carefully  off,  and  serve  it  without  butter.  This  fish 
is  nicest  when  freshly  cured. 

ALIMENT,  n.     Nourishment ;  food. 

We  take  it,  the  great  object  of  cookery  is  to  prepare  food 


10  ALIMENT. 

that  will  at  once  combine  the  most  nourishment  with  the 
least  unnecessary  action  of  the  stomach.  Crude,  hard  sub- 
stances thrown  into  the  stomach  tax  it  to  its  utmost  limit, 
"^if  "  there  is  a  tide  in  the  affairs  of  men,  which,  taken  at 
the  flood,  leads  on  to  fortune,"  so  also  there  is  a  crisis  in  the 
cooking  operations,  which  should  be  anxiously  watched  for 
by  all  honest  cooks  and  philanthropic,  well-disposed  persons. 
That  the  dissolving  and  reducing  powers  of  the  stomach 
have  a  limit,  the  frequent  visits  of  disease  too  surely  demon- 
strate. "We  would  not  advocate  a  fantastic  regimen  with 
regard  to  diet;  man's  instinct,  and  his  superior  digestive 
organs,  suggest  and  authorize  an  extensive  variety  in  the 
matter  of  food ;  we  only  wish  to  recommend  care  with  re- 
gard to  the  chemical  properties  of  materials,  and  their  care- 
ful preparation  for  the  human  stomach.  The  elegance  and 
graceful  lightness  of  French  dishes  is  not  often  attained  by 
us :  but  let  us  abjure  France's  brandy  sauces,  and  crude 
sugar  sauces,  her  cloying  cordials,  her  raw  oils  ;  and,  on  the 
other  hand,  let  us  refuse  to  eat  meat  half  cooked,  and  to 
swallow  soups  that  require  the  habits  of  a  Hottentot  prop- 
erly to  digest.  Our  climate  and  our  politics  are  both  highly 
exciting,  and  therefore  we  should  endeavor  to  propitiate  so 
powerful  an  agent  as  this  same  human  stomach.  The  effects 
of  diet,  both  negative  and  positive,  on  the  physical  and  men- 
tal constitution  of  man,  are  known  to  be  very  considerable. 
"  Know  thyself,"  is  the  sublime  injunction  often  thrown  in 
people's  faces.  No  one  can  obey  in  full ;  but  he  can  begin 
by  not  despising  the  day  of  small  things  ;  he  may  modify 
his  temper,  correct  his  health,  when  he  simply  thought  to 
modify  his  food  and  correct  some  habits  bearing  upon  the 
use  of  stimulants  and  narcotics.  Let  the  wise,  however,  be  a 
law  unto  themselves  in  these  things.  Franklin  may  be  great 
on  a  bowl  of  gruel ;  my  neighbor  on  the  hill  -has  gorgeous 
fancies  on  a  bowl  of  coffee ;  my  friend  who  lives  just  below 


ALKANET.  11 

builds  up  an  harmonious  physical  and  mental  constitution  on 
venison,  game,  rich  mutton,  beef,  and  perfumed  wines. 

ALKALI.  This  word  comes  from  an  herb,  called  by 
the  Egyptians  kali ;  it  is  the  same  as  glasswort,  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties.  The  Egyptians  burned  this 
herb  to  ashes,  boiled  the  ashes  in  water,  and  when  the  water 
was  completely  evaporated  the  residuum  was  a  white  salt, 
called  by  them  salkali  or  alkali. 

The  ashes  from  forests,  on  the  clearing  up  of  land  to  bring 
it  under  cultivation,  yield  a  vast  alkaline  residuum,  and  after 
these  ashes  have  been  subjected  to  boiling  and  evaporation 
of  its  solution  in  iron  pans  or  pots,  they  afford  one  principal  - 
alkali  of  commerce,  known  under  the  name  of  potash.  The 
common  domestic  ley,  used  for  the  manufacture  of  soft-soap, 
is  obtained  by  filtering  water  through  wood-ashes.  Hard- 
soap  is  made  with  another  alkali  of  commerce,  known  under 
the  name  of  soda;  it  is  obtained  through  the  combustion 
of  marine  plants.  Soda  abounds  in  sea-plants,  and  that  to 
a  greater  extent  than  potash  does  in  vegetables  of  inland 
districts.  The  barilla  of  Spain,  which  is  an  impure  car- 
bonate of  soda,  imported  from  Spain  and  the  Levant,  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  Salsola  saliva  and  vermiculata,  and  some 
of  these  plants  yield  nearly  twenty  per  cent  of  ashes,  which 
contain  about  two  per  cent  of  soda.  (Johnson's  Farmer's 
Encyclopedia.  External  Nature  as  adapted  to  the  Physical 
Condition  of  Man,  by  John  Kidd,  M.  D.,  F.  R.  S.) 

Alkaline  Salts  are  bodies  formed  by  the  union  of  alkalies 
with  acids.  Combined  with  fatty  substances,  as  already 
mentioned,  alkalies  form  soaps. 

ALKANET  (Lat.  anchusa\.  A  species  of  bugloss.  Its 
root  is  of  a  deep-red  color,  as  the  plant  reaches  maturity  in 
autumn ;  its  root  is  also  astringent.  Alkanet  chips,  which 


12  ALMOND. 

are  sold  by  the  druggists,  are  used  for  coloring :  previous 
to  infusing  them  in  any  liquid  you  may  wish  to  color,  they 
should  be  picked  over,  and  then  tied  in  a  muslin  bag.  It 
is  a  cheap,  easily  got  at,  and  innoxious  coloring.  Confec- 
tionary is  often  colored  through  the  agency  of  this  plant. 

ALLSPICE,  n.  The  dried,  .immature  berry  of  the 
Myrtus  pimenta  ;  called  also  Jamaica  pepper.  (  Worcester.) 

This  spice  is  not  much  used  in  any  approved  category  of 
culinary  operations.     Mixed  with  stronger  spices,  and  chief- 
ly to  qualify  their  asperity,  it  is  put  into  mangroves  for 
pickling.      In   common  cakes,  it  sometimes   gets   leave  to . 
come  in. 

ALLSPICE-TREE,  or  Sweet-scented  Strawberry,  or 
Calycanthus. 

This  delightful  shrub  is  a  native  of  North  America.  The 
scent  of  its  fragrant  brown  flowers  is  thought  to  resemble 
the  fruit  of  the  strawberry.  It  thrives  in  almost  any  deep, 
fresh  soil,  but  loves  a  shady  situation.  The  different  species 
are  all  varieties  of  the  Calycanthus  floridus,  or  the  American 
Allspice-tree ;  it  is  also  sometimes  called  Carolina  Allspice. 
All  the  varieties  are  propagated  by  layers,  removing  the 
layers  the  third  year. 

ALMOND  (Amygdalus,  Rosacece).  These  ornamental 
species  of  almond  are  very  popular,  on  account  of  their 
flowers.  The  dwarf  (A.  nana)  is  a  low  but  beautiful  shrub, 
that  bears  in  spring  exquisite  double  pink  flowers.  A.  com- 
munis-plcno  is  the  large  flowering  shrub.  Its  flowers  are 
nearly  white.  It  bears  also  a  good  hard-shell,  but  small 
almond. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  each  of  these  species.  The 
dwarf  almond  is  propagated  by  suckers,  while  other  species 


ALMOND.  13 

and  varieties  are  grafted  on  the  common  plum-tree.  The 
common  dwarf  almond  has  several  botanical  soubriquets  ;  it 
is  known  as  Amygdalus  pumila,  Lin.,  frunus  japonica,  Pru- 
nus  Sinensis,  and  Cerasus ;  but  under  any  of  these  names,  or 
any  other  name,  it  smells  as  sweet.  Mrs.  Loudon  remarks, 
in  her  excellent  book,  "  Gardening  for  Ladies,"  that  where 
the  almond  is  cultivated  for  its  flowers,  a  background  of  ever- 
greens should  support  them,  "  as  otherwise,  from  the  flowers 
being  produced  before  the  leaves,  half  their  beauty  will  be 
lost  from  the  cold  and  naked  appearance  of  the  tree." 

ALMOND  (Amygdalus  communis).  The  almond-tree  is 
a  native  of  the  North  of  Africa  and  the  mountains  of  Asia. 
Its  cultivation  was  introduced  into  England  as  early  as  1548. 
Its  resemblance  to  the  peach-tree  in  both  wood  and  leaf  is 
so  like,  that,  joined  to  experiments  which  have  been  made  in 
cultivating  the  almond  from  seed,  many  botanists  think  the 
peach  an  accidental  variety,  produced  by  culture  on  the 
almond. 

The  almond  requires  similar  soil  and  treatment  to  that 
bestowed  on  the  peach.  It  is  often  budded  on  thrifty  plum 
stocks.  Though  some  ornamental  varieties  grow  in  New 
England,  our  Northern  regions  refuse  us  the  fruit.  The 
lamented  and  accomplished  Downing  *  says,  that  "  the  com- 
mon almond,  the  hard-shell  sweet  almond,  and  the  bitter 
almond,  are  hardy  in  the  latitude  of  New  York,  and  will  bear 
tolerable  crops  without  care.  The  soft-shell  sweet  almond, 
or  ladies'  almond,  will  not  thrive  well  in  the  open  garden  as 
a  standard  north  of  Philadelphia;  but  they  succeed  well 
trained  to  a  wall  or  on  espalier  rails,  in  a  warm  situation, 
the  branches  being  slightly  protected  in  winter.  There  is 
no  apparent  reason  why  the  culture  of  the  almond  should 

*  Fruits  and  Fruit-trees  of  America. 
2 


14  ALMOND. 

not  be  pursued  to  a  profitable  extent  in  the  warm  and 
favorable  climate  of  some  of  the  Southern  States.  Especially 
in  the  valley  of  the  Ohio  and  Tennessee  it  would  be  likely  to 
succeed  admirably." 

1.  The  long  Hard-shell  Almond  is  hardy,  has  a  large  nut. 
Grows   readily   in   the   Middle   and  Western    States.     Its 
flowers  are  large,  highly  ornamental,  of  a  pale  rose-color. 
Ripens  last  of  September  and  first  of  October. 

2.  Common  Almond,  sweet,  is  also  hardy ;  nuts  hard,  of 
agreeable  flavor,  but  inferior  to  the  preceding.      Flowers 
precede  the  leaves. 

3.  The  Soft-shell   Sweet  Almond,  or  Ladies'  Thin-shell, 
is  the  choicest  variety  for  the  dessert,  and  for  confectionery. 
It  ripens  early,  and  it  is  served  up  in  a  green  or  fresh  state 
at  Parisian  dinners  about  the  middle  of  July.     The  blossoms 
and  leaves  come  out  together  ;  the  flower  has  a  deeper  red 
than  the  varieties   already  mentioned.     The  shell  is  soft, 
easily  yielding  to  the  pressure  of  the  fingers ;  the  kernel 
is  sweet,  and  very  agreeable.     Mr.  Downing  has  remarked, 
"  that  on  the  plum  stock,  in  a  favorable  aspect,  this  almond 
succeeds,  with  a  little  care,  in  the  Middle  States." 

4.  Sultana  Sweet  Almond.     A  tender-shelled  almond,  of 
pleasant   quality.       The   fruit   is    smaller    and    the   kernel 
narrower  than  the  soft-shelled  almond,  but  of  equally  rich 
flavor,  and  even  thought  to  be  the  nicer  by  some. 

5.  Pistachio  Sweet  Almond.     This  variety  is  not  much 
known  in  America.     The  fruit  resembles  the  pistachio  in 
size  and  shape ;  the  shell  is  not  quite  as  tender  as  the  soft- 
shell  almond.     Of  this  variety  Mr.  Downing  has  observed, 
that  it  "  is  scarcely  known  yet  in  this  country,  but  is  worth 
further  trial  at  the  South." 

6.  Peach  Almond.     This  variety  is  considered  as  rather 
indifferent.     It  is  a  cross  between  the  peach  and  the  almond. 
Its  fruit  is  somewhat  sweet,  but  not  unfrequently  a  little  bit- 


ALMOND.  15 

ter,  resembling,  in  short,  the  inferior  kind  of  peaches.  This 
variety  requires,  to  ripen  perfectly,  a  Southern  latitude. 

7.  The  Bitter  Almond.  This  species  is  distinguished  for 
its  bitter  kernel.  It  has  two  varieties,  one  with  a  hard  and 
one  with  a  brittle  shell.  The  leaves  have  a  darker  green 
than  most  of  the  sweet-fruited  discover,  and  are  also  longer ; 
the  blossoms  are  also  large,  and  pale  in  color. 

The  kernel  of  the  sweet  almond  has  its  familiar  uses,  in 
the  lady's  boudoir,  in  the  hands  of  the  confectioner,  and  the 
simple  house  cook.  The  bitter  almond  plays  a  part  almost 
as  varied  and  busy,  for  besides  lending  aid  to  the  cook 
and  confectioner,  it  also  is  an  auxiliary  of  medicine,  and, 
gliding  into  the  chemist's  crucible,  yields  him  one  of  the  most 
virulent  of  all  poisons,  prussic  aoid.  Both  the  sweet  and 
bitter  almond  afford  an  oil.  Let  us  now  proceed  to  see  in 
how  many  good  things  this  valuable  nut  is  found  as  a  very 
principal  help  and  ingredient ;  observing  beforehand,  that 
the  soft-shell  sweet  almond,  or  ladies'  almond,  is  the  favorite 
nut  for  the  table,  and  for  fancy  dishes  for  dessert.  It  is  also 
better  economy  to  buy  these  when  to  be  used  for  the  last- 
mentioned  purposes,  a  pound  of  this  variety  yielding  about 
half  a  pound  when  shelled;  of  course  the  thicker-shelled 
yield  less. 

ALMOND  BLANCMANGE. 

Take  two  ounces  of  isinglass  and  one  quart  of  new  milk, 
blanch  one  half-pound  of  almonds,  and  pound  them  very 
fine  in  a  mortar,  with  a  little  rose-water,  and  stir  them  in 
carefully.  Strain  it,  and  sweeten  it  to  your  taste.  Let  it  be 
milk-warm  when  you  put  it  into  your  mould. 

ALMOND  CANDY. 

Take  two  quarts  of  West  India  molasses,  and  stir  into  it 
one  pound  of  brown  sugar ;  put  this  molasses  thus  prepared 


16  ALMOND. 

into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire, 
and  let  it  boil  about  three  hours.  Have  ready  three  pounds 
of  blanched  almonds,  cut  into  large  pieces,  and  just  before 
taking  it  up,  stir  in  a  piece  of  fresh  butter  about  the  size  of  a 
hen's  egg ;  then  put  in  the  almonds.  You  may  omit  the 
butter  if  you  choose,  hanging  your  faith  on  the  oil  of  the 
almonds.  If  you  wish  to  have  part  of  your  candy  light- 
colored,  separate  some,  and  cut  some  of  your  almonds  very 
fine,  and  while  it  is  yet  warm  pull  the  candy,  (having  previ- 
ously floured  or  buttered  your  hands,)  at  arm's  length,  till  it 
is  light  yellow,  or  straw-color.  Twist  this,  and  cut  it  in 
sticks.  Butter  flat  pans  for  that  which  is  not  to  be  worked, 
and  pour  the  candy  into  them. 

In  making  candy,  be  always  careful  not  to  have  too  hot  a 
fire,  as  molasses  is  easily  burned. 

ALMOND  CAKE. 

Take  an  ounce  of  shelled  bitter  almonds  and  an  ounce  of 
shelled  sweet  almonds ;  blanch  them,  and  lay  them  on  a  dry 
linen  cloth  in  the  sun.  Take  a  pound  of  dry,  hard  loaf- 
sugar,  of  the  best  quality,  and  powder  it  and  sift  it.  Take 
ten  newly  laid  eggs,  and  break  them  on  the  sugar.  Wipe 
the  almonds  perfectly  dry ;  pound  them  in  a  stone  or  marble 
mortar  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding  a  little  rose-water  while 
pounding  them  to  prevent  their  oiling.  Have  ready  seven 
ounces  of  dried  and  sifted  flour. 

Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  till  they  are  very  light.  Stir  in 
the  almond  very  hard,  and  just  before  you  put  the  cake  into 
the  oven,  stir  in  the  flour  quite  lightly.  Put  this  mixture 
into  thin-bottomed  pans,  that  the  heat  may  be  on  the  bottom 
of  the  pan  rather  than  the  top.  The  oven  should  be  quick. 
Butter  your  pans  with  good  butter. 

This  cake  is  frequently  iced.  To  do  this,  take  the  whites 
of  three  eggs,  and  as  much  white  powdered  sugar  as  will 


ALMOND.  17 

make  a  thick  paste,  about  twenty-five  spoonfuls  if  the  eggs 
are  large.  Flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  fresh  lemon-juice. 
Put  it  on  the  cake  while  it  is  warm  (but  not  hot)  from  the 
oven. 

ALMOND  CHEESECAKES. 

There  are  a  variety  of  ways  of  making  these  cakes.  Some 
persons  beat  eggs  and  stir  them  into  boiling  milk  till  it  makes 
a  curd,  and  add  sugar  and  cream  and  spice  and  almonds  and 
raisins  to  this  curd ;  and  others  make  this  curd  with  rennet, 
adding  such  ingredients  as  are  mentioned  above.  Another 
good  way  is  the  following  :  — 

Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  sweet  almonds  ; 
let  them  cool ;  pound  them  in  rose-water  in  a  marble  or 
stone  mortar.  Take  the  same  quantity  of  sugar,  and  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs.  Beat  this  mixture  till  it  is  very  light. 
Bake  it  in  rich  puff-paste. 

ALMOND  CREAM. 

Weigh  a  pound  of  soft-shelled  almonds  in  the  shell ; 
blanch  them,  and  pound  them  with  a  little  rose-water,  which 
indeed  should  always,  when  practicable,  be  used,  as  before 
mentioned,  as  it  prevents  the  almonds  from  oiling.  Take  a 
quart  of  cream,  and  stir  in  half  a  pound  of  powdered  loaf- 
sugar.  Freeze  it. 

ALMOND  CUSTARD. 

Take  one  pint  of  cream  ;  blanch  and  beat  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  almonds  with  two  spoonfuls  of  rose-water ;  add  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  ;  sweeten  to  your .  taste.  You  can  boil 
this  in  a  porcelain  kettle,  stirring  it  one  way  over  the  fire,  or 
you  can  boil  it  in  a  tin  custard-pail,  or  bake  it  in  small  china 
custard-cups. 

This  custard  is  also  nice  frozen ;  in  which  case  it  is  put 
into  the  freezer  without  being  subjected  to  any  heat. 


18  ALMOND. 

ALMOND  FLUMMERY. 

Take  two  large  calves'  feet,  and  boil  them  in  two  quarts  of 
water  till  the  meat  falls  in  rags  from  the  bones  ;  then  strain 
it  off,  and  put  to  the  clear  jelly  half  a  pint  of  thick  cream ; 
then  take  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  and  an  ounce  of  bitter 
almonds,  blanched  and  well  beaten  together,  and  stir  them 
in.  Put  the  ingredients  thus  prepared  into  a  porcelain  pre- 
serving-kettle, and  let  it  come  to  a  boil ;  then  strain  it  off, 
and  when  it  is  warm  as  milk,  put  it  into  cups  or  glasses. 

ALMOND  MACAROONS. 

Take  one  pound  of  the  best  white  powdered  sugar,  sift  it ; 
beat  in  a  stone  or  marble  mortar  one  pound  of  blanched 
sweet  almonds,  adding  a  few  drops  of  rose-water  as  you  beat 
them ;  mix  them  into  a  paste  with  the  whites  of  six  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Make  them  into  forms,  by  taking  a  little  of  the 
paste  about  the  size  of  a  cherry  into  the  palm  of  your  hand, 
with  a  little  flour.  Butter  some  sheets  of  white  paper,  drop 
the  macaroons  on  it,  leaving  a  little  interval  between  each 
for  them  to  spread.  Bake  them  quickly,  strewing  a  little 
white  powdered  sugar  over  them  from  a  fine  sieve  just 
before  putting  them  into  the  oven.  Try  to  have  them  a 
delicate  color. 

ALMOND  PASTE. 

This  is  a  grateful  and  cooling  paste,  highly  recommended 
for  the  hands. 

Take  six  pounds  of  fresh  almonds,  blanch,  and  beat  them 
in  a  stone  or  marble  mortar  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
rose-water,  added  gradually,  to  make  a  thick  paste ;  add  to 
this  a  pound  of  clear,  fresh-strained  honey,  and  mix  the 
whole  thoroughly  and  smoothly.  Put  it  in  small  china  pots, 
or  wide-mouthed  glass  bottles,  with  a  little  rose-water  on  the 
top  of  each  bottle.  Tie  them  closely. 


ALMOND.  19 

ALMOND  PUDDING. 

Take  one  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  one  half-pound  of  butter, 
and  work  them  together.  Beat  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs ; 
have  ready  one  half-pound  of  blanched  almonds,  beaten 
smoothly,  with  a  few  drops  of  rose-water,  the  strained  juice 
of  three  large  fresh  lemons,  and  the  grate  of  one.  Stir  the 
egg  and  the  almonds  into  the  butter  gradually  and  alter- 
nately, putting  the  lemon  juice  and  peel  in  last.  Bake  in 
a  rich  paste,  in  small  pie-plates. 

ALMOND  SOUP. 

This  soup  is  made  either  from  calves'  feet,  a  knuckle  or 
breast  of  veal,  a  scrag  of  mutton,  or  cold  fowl,  and  never 
from  any  of  the  darker,  heavier  meats,  as  its  principal  beauty 
is  its  delicate  pearl-color.  For  the  same  reason  none  of  the 
darker  spices  are  to  be  used,  and  the  soup  should  be  boiled 
in  a  porcelain -lined  kettle,  and  cooled,  in  its  progressive  steps, 
in  china  or  porcelain  dishes. 

If  you  make  your  soup  of  calves'  feet,  take  four  feet, 
nicely  scraped,  but  not  skinned,  and  put  them  into  your 
kettle  with  a  few  blades  of  mace.  Pour  over  them  three 
quarts  of  'cold  water.  Cover  the  kettle,  and  put  it  over  a 
moderate  fire,  where  it  may  boil  slowly.  When  it  comes  to 
a  quick  boil,  throw  in  a  little  table-salt,  and  remove  the 
kettle  to  a  position  where  it  may  simmer.  Soups  require  in 
their  early  stages  a  sufficient  degree  of  heat  to  bring  to  the 
surface  the  scum ;  and  as  salt  tends  to  throw  this  together, 
it  is  well  to  put  the  salt  in  as  soon  as  the  soup  boils. 

Skim  the  soup,  and  let  it  be  subjected  to  a  steady  simmer 
till  the  meat  has  fallen  in  rags  from  the  bone.  Then  strain 
it  into  an  earthen  pan ;  when  it  is  cold,  remove  the  fat  from 
the  top,  and  return  the  stock  to  the  kettle ;  as  soon  as  it  is 
melted,  have  ready  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  blanched 
almonds,  that  have  been  pounded  smoothly  in  a  stone  mor- 


20  ALMOND. 

tar,  with  a  few  drops  of  rose-water  added  to  them,  from 
time  to  time,  during  the  process  of  pounding.  Some  are  of 
opinion,  that  a  few  bitter  almonds  added  to  the  sweet  improve 
the  flavor  of  the  soup.  Boil  them  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in 
the  soup. 

Boil  a  pint  of  cream  a  few  minutes  before  taking  up  the 
soup,  and  stir  it  in  just  before  sending  it  to  the  table. 

If  you  make  your  soup  of  mutton  and  veal,  omit  the  cream 
and  mace,  and  cut  up  the  peel  of  a  lemon  in  thin  slices,  and 
just  before  sending  the  soup  to  the  table  add  a  little  of  the 
strained  juice  of  the  lemon. 

Soups  of  an  elaborate  kind  should  be  made  early  in  the 
morning,  or  partially  prepared  the  day  before.  Veal,  fish, 
and  vegetable  soups  are,  however,  best  when  freshly  made. 

Besides  these  numerous  happy  appearances,  the  almond  is 
with  us  again  in  the  popular  Antique  Oil,  used  now  so  com- 
monly for  the  hair.  This  oil  is  made  of  ftjual  proportions 
of  the  oil  of  sweet  almonds  and  the  best  olive-oil,  colored 
with  alkanet  chips,  tied  in  a  muslin  bag,  scenting  the  mixed 
oils  with  such  perfumes  as  may  be  most  grateful  or  desirable. 
The  oils,  after  being  mixed,  should  stand  for  a  few  days  in 
some  warm  place  to  facilitate  the  coloring,  and,  by  a  gentle 
infusion,  have  the  scented  essence  thoroughly  incorporated. 
Do  not,  however,  put  in  the  essence  till  a  short  time  before 
bottling,  as  the  heat  would  dissipate  the  perfume.  Put  it 
into  glass  bottles,  and  cork  it  well,  having  previously  passed 
it  through  a  strainer. 

Almonds,  blanched  -and  cut  in  large  pieces,  are  often  placed 
on  the  top  of  sponge  and  other  light  cakes  just  before  they 
are  sent  to  the  oven.  Almond  icing  is  also  put  over  this 
class  of  cakes.  As  to  almond  tarts,  colored  with  the  juice 
of  spinach  and  less  innocent  matters,  the  less  that  is  said  of 
them,  the  better  for  all  parties  concerned. 


ALTHEA   FRUTEX.  21 

ALOES.  The  medicinal  juice  is  extracted  from  the 
common  aloes-tree,  which  has  no  relation  to  the  costly  tree 
of  the  East,  whose  spicy  virtues  are  alluded  to  by  both 
David  and  Solomon,  nor  yet  to  the  American  Aloe,  or 
Agave. 

The  American  Aloe  is  of  the  Amaryllis  tribe,  but  the  true 
Aloe  of  the  Day-lily  tribe. 

The  true  Aloe  is  highly  purgative,  but  the  American  Aloe 
abounds  in  mild  starchy  properties;  the  American  Aloe 
sends  up  a  gigantic  flower-stem,  from  which  issue  branches 
of  cup-shaped  flowers,  but  each  plant  flowers  but  once,  while 
the  true  Aloe  flowers  every  year. 

The  drug  is  extracted  from  the  pulp  of  the  leaves  of 
several  species.  The  Aloe  Socotrina,  so  called  from  the 
island  of  Socotra,  is  now  hardly  to  be  had ;  that  which  is 
sold  for  Socotrine  being  a  mixture  of  Barbadoes  and  Cape 
aloes. 

Aloes  is  a  very  strong  cathartic.  As  a  veterinary  medi- 
cine it  is  often  very  efficacious  ;  but  though  a  valuable  horse 
medicine,  it  is  rarely  given  to  other  domestic  animals. 
Even  to  the  horse  it  must  be  administered  with  care.  For 
purging  a  horse,  the  usual  dose  is  from  four  to  eight  or  ten 
drachms ;  but,  except  in  certain  diseases,  more  than  eight 
should  never  be  given  even  to  the  strongest  horse,  and  six 
or  seven  drachms  are  a  sufficient  dose  for  a  family  horse. 

It  may  be  given  in  the  solid  or  liquid  state  ;  but  the  best 
method  of  administering  it  is  to  powder  it,  and  mix  it  up 
with  flour  and  water,  or  honey,  or  some  simple,  to  a  stiff 
paste,  and  placing  it  at  the  root  of  the  roof  of  the  horse's 
tongue,  he  swallows  it  without  difficulty.  (See  Johnson's 
Farmer's  Encyclopaedia.) 

ALTHEA  FRUTEX,  OR  ROSE  OF  SHARON,  is 

a  hardy  shrub,  growing  very  common  in  Virginia,  and  easily 


22  ALUM. 

cultivated  in  most  common  garden  soils.  Some  of  the 
varieties  are  very  beautiful,  and  any  are  desirable  for  a 
flower-garden.  It  can  be  propagated  from  seed,  or  by 
cuttings  and  layers.  Seeds  are  thought  to  produce  the  best 
plants. 

ALUM  (Lat.  Alumen).  A  mineral  or  earthy  salt  of  an 
acid  taste.  It  is  a  sulphate  of  alumina,  combined  usually 
with  a  sulphate  of  potash.  (  Worcester.) 

This  mineral  salt  contains,  according  to  chemical  results, 
in  different  proportions,  sulphuric  acid,  alumina,  potash,  and 
water.  Its  cleansing  qualities  often  tend  to  dissipate  inflam- 
matory sores  and  ulcers  which  have  already  reached  the  crisis. 
It  is  rendered  milder  by  burning  a  bit  on  a  shovel  or  iron 
plate,  and  reducing  it  to  a  smooth  powder. 

Alum  Lotion,  or  water  impregnated  with  alum,  is  some- 
times, among  other  minerals  and  earths,  used  by  florists  in 
watering  the  Hydrangea,  to  change  the  pink  flowers  to  blue. 
It  does  not  always  succeed.  (Mrs.  Loudon's  Gardening  for 
Ladies.) 

Alum  Whey  is  made  by  mixing  half  a  pound  of  powdered 
alum  with  one  pint  of  milk.  Strain,  and  sweeten  it  with 
white  sugar,  and  add  a  little  nutmeg.  It  is  efficacious  some- 
times in  diarrhoea,  and  in  cases  of  colic. 

Alum  is  much  used  in  dyeing  processes.  A  good  domes- 
tic dye,  for  homely  purposes,  is  made  by  boiling  sugar-loaf 
paper  with  vinegar  in  an  iron  vessel,  and  fixing  the  color 
with  alum.  This  liquid  is  carefully  strained  before  any  cloth 
is  boiled  in  it,  and  the  cloth  to  be  dyed  should  be  wet. 

Alum  is  sometimes  put  into  rinsing-water  in  washing  cali- 
coes where  green  and  yellow  colors  predominate. 

A  very  little  alum  is  frequently  put  into  vinegar  for  pickles, 
to  harden  them  and  improve  their  color. 


AMMONIAC.  23 

ALYSSUM  (Cruciferce).  Lat.  for  Madwort.  Herba- 
ceous plants,  both  annual  and  perennial,  chiefly  natives  of 
Europe.  Some  varieties  are  grown  on  rock- work.  The 
Sweet  Alyssum  should  be  grown  where  bees  are  kept. 

AMMONIA,  OR  VOLATILE  ALKALI.  This  gaseous 
substance  consists  of  hydrogen  and  azote  only.  It  acquired 
its  name  from  its  being  prepared  in  the  East,  from  camels' 
excrement,  nigh  a  temple  consecrated  to  Jupiter  Ammon. 

This  alkali  is  very  extensively  diffused,  and  to  its  presence 
in  liquid  manures  and  organic  substances  is  mainly  owing 
their  efficacy  as  manures. 

In  places  overcharged  with  animal  life,  this  gas  exists  to 
an  extent  injurious  to  human  life. 

AMMONIAC,  n.  A  gum-resin  ;  the  name  of  two  drugs, 
gum  ammoniac,  a  concrete  juice  brought  from  the  East,  and 
sal  ammoniac,  a  compound  of  muriatic  acid  and  ammonia, 
popularly  called  hartshorn.  (  Worcester.) 

Sal  ammoniac  is  obtained  by  destructive  distillation  of 
bones  ;  a  process  by  which,  on  the  application  of  heat,  the 
substance  of  the  bone  is  dissolved  into  its  simple  elements, 
from  which  new  compounds  are  formed.  Some  of  these 
escape  in  the  form  of  vapor  or  gas,  while  the  fixed  prin- 
ciples remain  in  the  retort. 

The  article  used  in  smelling-bottles,  and  called  salt  of 
hartshorn,  and  volatile  salts,  is  a  carbonate  of  ammonia ;  it  is 
obtained  from  the  horn  of  the  hart,  or  from  any  kind  of  bone. 
Spirit  of  hartshorn,  called  by  the  apothecaries  liquid  ammo- 
nia, is  frequently  used  to  cleanse  jewelry,  applying  it  with  a 
soft,  clean  rag,  and  clearing  and  polishing  it  with  other  dry 
rags  and  bits  of  silk.  Stains  are  often  removed  by  it  from 
silks,  gloves,  carpets,  and  worsted  materials.  As  it  is  very 
volatile,  but  a  little  should  be  exposed  at  one  time  to 
the  air. 


24  ANCHOVY. 

A  friend  has  vouched  for  the  following  recipe  for  the 
cure  of  warts.  Dissolve  in  an  ounce  vial,  filled  with  soft 
water,  as  much  sal  ammoniac  as  it  will  hold,  and  wash  the 
warts  several  times  daily.  This  process  persisted  in  will  not 
fail  to  remove  these  excrescences. 

Water  absorbs  this  gas  instantaneously,  and  in  great  pro- 
portions, taking  up  more  than  five  hundred  times  its  own 
bulk  ;  and  when  water  is  so  charged,  we  have  the  pungent 
liquid  already  mentioned  as  called  by  the  druggists  liquid 
ammonia,  and  known  also  as  spirit  of  sal  ammoniac,  or 
spirit  of  hartshorn. 

In  painting  roses,  or  wherever  bright  carmine  tints  are 
required,  a  few  drops  of  liquid  ammonia  mixed  with  the 
paint  heighten  the  color.  Indeed,  the  salts  of  ammonia,  and 
especially  the  muriate  and  carbonate,  are  substances  of  large 
commercial  traffic,  and  are  much  used  in  the  arts  and  in 
medicine. 

Spirit  of  hartshorn,  very  much  diluted,  is  sometimes  used 
for  dressing  the  hair. 

AMYLACEOUS,  a.  Applied  to  substances  which  contain 
starchy  properties.  Arrowroot,  tapioca,  salop,  and  sago,  all 
have  large  proportions  of  fecula  or  starch.  Light  dishes  for 
dessert,  and  nutritious  ones  for  invalids,  are  made  from  these 
articles.  See  directions  under  their  respective  heads. 

ANCHOVY.  A  little  sea-fish,  from  which  sauces  are 
made  to  accompany  larger  fish.  Anchovies  are  known  to  be 
fresh  by  the  smell  and  fresh  color  of  the  fish.  The  red 
color  of  anchovy  liquor  is  given  to  it  by  artificial  means, 
often  by  cochineal,  and  consequently  is  not  desirable. 

ANCHOVY  TOASTS. 

Take  slices  of  bread,  and  fry  them  in  fresh  butter ;  have 
ready  some  fresh  anchovies,  that  have  been  boned,  pounded 


ANNOTTO.  25 

in  a  mortar,  and  the  liquor  pressed  from  them  ;  mix  a  little 
butter  with  them,  and  spread  them  on  the  bread,  putting 
some  whole  bits  of  anchovy  on  top,  or  garnish  with  slices  of 
hard-boiled  egg.  Serve  very  hot. 

ANCHOVY  CATCHUP. 

Take  twenty-four  anchovies,  chop  them,  bone  and  all ; 
put  to  them  one  handful  of  scraped  horseradish,  four  blades 
of  mace,  ten  shallots  or  small  onions,  one  quart  of  white 
wine,  one  pint  of  water,  one  fresh  lemon  cut  in  slices,  one 
half-gill  of  anchovy  liquor,  one  gill  of  claret,  twelve  cloves, 
twelve  peppercorns ;  boil  them  together  till  reduced  to  a 
quart.  Strain  and  bottle  it  for  use.  Two  teaspoonfuls  will 
flavor  one  pound  of  melted  butter. 

ANISE  (Lat.  Pimpinetta  amsum).  A  kitchen  herb ;  a 
species  of  apium  or  parsley.  It  has  large  aromatic  seeds, 
which  are*  used  for  flavoring  soups.  These  seeds  are  dis- 
tilled with  brandy,  sweetened  with  sugar,  and  filtered  for 
anisette  liqueurs. 

One  pound  of  anise-seed  yields  by  distillation  two  drachms 
of  oil.  Dropped  on  a  lump  of  loaf-sugar,  from  two  to  ten 
drops,  it  is  found  to  be  stimulating,  to  expel  wind  and  induce 
perspiration.  This  oil  is  said  to  be  poisonous  to  pigeons,  if 
rubbed  on  their  bills  or  heads. 

ANNOTTO  (written  also  Annotta,  Arnotto,  and  Aronetta). 
Annotto  is  sometimes  called  Rocou.  It  is  a  soft  substance 
prepared  from  the  seeds  of  the  Bixa  orellana,  a  shrub  of 
Tropical  America,  and  used  for  dyeing.  Combined  with  the 
paste  is  a  resin,  so  that  some  alkali,  such  as  soft-soap  or 
weak  ley,  is  used  to  facilitate  the  solution  of  the  dye. 

For  dyeing  a  few  yards  of  any  material,  a  little  of  the 
paste  can  be  tied  in  a  muslin  bag ;  and,  having  previously 


26  ANTHRACITE. 

soaked  the  material  in  cold  water,  wring  it  out  dry,  and  pull 
it  apart,  and  boil  it  in  the  ley  with  the  coloring  bag. 

The  nicer  kinds  of  annotto  are  of  a  bright  color,  yield  to 
the  pressure,  and  dissolve  in  water  more  readily  than  that 
which  is  usually  to  be  had  of  the  druggists.  ,The  English 
color  their  cheeses  with  the  purer  sorts  of  annotto.  An 
ounce  is  sufficient  to  color  twenty  cheeses  of  ten  or  twelve 
pounds  each.  Cheeses  are  not  so  universally  colored  in 
America. 

ANTS.  Mrs.  Loudon  remarks  (Gardening  for  Ladies), 
that  "  it  has  been  found  that  the  liquor  discharged  by  ants  is 
very  acid  and  acrid ;  the  idea  presented  itself  that  alkalies 
would  be  disagreeable  to  them  ;  and  experience  proves  this 
so  far  to  be  the  case,  that  a  circle  of  chalk  or  lime  laid  round 
any  plant  will  effectually  prevent  the  ants  from  touching  it." 
Similar  measures  and  great  cleanliness  will  keep  them  out 
of  closets. 

ANTHRACITE.  A  hard  mineral  coal.  Lehigh,  Schuyl- 
kill,  and  Rhode  Island  coal  come  under  this  head.  It  is 
heavier,  less  black,  and  not  so  easily  ignited  as  bituminous 
coal ;  it  emits  no  smoke,  and  burns  slowly  writh  a  white  flame, 
but  once  excited  to  flame,  and  burned  in  large  masses,  it 
throws  out  great  heat,  and  is  not  so  quickly  exhausted  as 
bituminous  coal.  It  is  now  used  quite  extensively  in  Ameri- 
ca, both  for  domestic  and  other  purposes. 

In  making  fires  for  the  grate,  the  best  way  is  to  lay  a  thin 
foundation  with  hard  coal,  selecting  the  smaller  pieces  from 
the  scuttle ;  put  bright  kitchen  coals  on  this  basis,  seeing  that 
the  coals  are  unmixed  with  ashes ;  over  these  coals  put  some 
pieces  of  charcoal,  filling  up  the  crevices  with  small  bits  of 
anthracite  ;  when  this  has  ignited,  put  on  the  last  heap  of 
anthracite,  the  smaller  lumps  first,  and  set  the  blower  firmly 


APPLE.  27 

on.     When  forked  flames  strike  up  through  the  mass  to  the 
surface,  you  may  safely  take  the  blower  off. 

The  ashes  from  anthracite  coal  will  make  neither  soap 
nor  ley. 

ANTISEPTICS,  n.  Substances  which  prevent  or  check 
putrefaction  (Worcester).  Some  of  the  most  powerful  of 
these  preservative  agents  are  alcohol,  oils,  acids,  camphor, 
charcoal,  chlorine,  tannin,  resins,  sugar,  bitumen,  and  salts  of 
different  kinds. 

The  mode  by  which  they  resist  and  retard  decay  has  never 
been  fully  explained.  In  some  cases,  as  in  leather,  they 
seem  to  combine  with  the  material  to  be  preserved,  and 
probably  in  other  cases  they  absorb  the  decomposing  gases 
and  agents. 

Lumps  of  charcoal  put  about  birds  and  meat  will  tend  to 
keep  them  sweet,  but  will  hardly  restore  what  is  already 
tainted. 

For  the  preservation  of  vegetable  and  animal  substances, 
sugar,  alcohol,  salt,  acetic  acid  or  vinegar,  and  pyroligneous 
acids  are  used ;  but  antiseptics  for  the  preservation  of  sci- 
entific specimens  and  labors  are  resinous  and  bituminous 
varnishes,  alum,  alcohol,  oil  of  turpentine,  and  corrosive1 
sublimate. 

APPLE  (Pyrus  Malus).  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  all  our 
apples  have  originated  from  a  species  of  crab  which  is  native 
to  Europe,  and  not  from  our  native  crabs.  The  seeds  of  the 
species  brought  by  the  European  colonists  to  America  have, 
through  the  influences  of  culture,  soil,  and  climate,  succeeded 
in  giving  us  the  finest  apple  in  the  world.  Mr.  Downing 
has  remarked,  that  the  apple-tree  is  "  most  perfectly  natural- 
ized in  America,  and  in  the  northern  and  middle  portions  of 
the  United  States  succeeds  as  well,  or,  as  we  believe,  better 


28  APPLE. 

than  in  any  part  of  the  world.  The  most  celebrated  apples 
of  Germany  and  the  North  of  Europe  are  not  superior  to 
many  of  the  varieties  originated  here ;  and  the  American 
or  Newtown  Pippin  is  now  pretty  generally  admitted  to 
be  the  finest  apple  in  the  world.  No  better  proof  of  the 
perfect  adaptation  of  our  soil  and  climate  to  this  tree  can 
be  desired,  than  the  seemingly  spontaneous  production  of 
such  varieties  as  this,  the  Baldwin,  the  Spitzenburg,  or  the 
Snaar,  —  all  fruits  of  delicious  flavor  and  great  beauty  of 
appearance." 

Though  the  apple  will  live  in  almost  any  soil  and  situation, 
it  thrives  best  in  strong  loamy  soils,  that  are  rather  heavy 
than  light  and  sandy.  Clayey  loams,  if  well  drained,  are 
favorable  fruit  soils.  There  are  some  exceptions  to  this  soil ; 
the  Yellow  Belle-Fleur  is  thought  finer  to  be  grown  on  a 
sandy  soil ;  and,  to  quote  the  same  excellent  authority  above 
mentioned,  "  the  Newtown  Pippin  will  only  arrive  at  per- 
fection in  a  strong  loam."  But  there  are  exceptions  to  all 
rules ;  and  the  distinguished  author  adds,  "  that  calcareous 
soils,  of  whatever  texture,  are  better  than  soils  of  the  same 
quality  where  no  limestone  is  present." 

Sandy  soils,  whose  subsoil  is  also  of  too  sandy  a  character, 
are  improved  by  top-dressing  and  manures.  Top-dressings 
of  clay  and  heavy  bog-earth,  river-mud,  and  similar  matters, 
are  recommended  by  the  best  cultivators  as  more  lasting 
manures,  and  calculated  to  work  up  a  firmer,  better  soil,  than 
the  common  stable-manures. 

Every  fruit  garden,  where  the  soil  is  not  naturally  good, 
requires  to  be  ploughed,  or  trenched  two  spades  in  depth ; 
and  it  is  better  to  do  this  one  season  beforehand,  that  is, 
before  setting  out  seedlings. 

The  apple-tree  has  many  enemies  in  the  insect  world,  that 
the  cultivator  must  constantly  watch,  and  endeavor  to  over- 
reach. 


APPLE.  29 

The  Apple-tree  Borer  is  among  the  most  mischievous  of 
these  insects.  In  June  it  assumes  the  form  of  a  medium- 
sized  beetle,  flying  about  in  the  night,  and  in  the  clay  resting 
and  feeding  on  the  leaves  of  the  trees  ;  in  this  month,  and  in 
July  and  August,  she  begins  to  lay  eggs  upon  the  bark  of 
the  tree,  and  almost  always  near  the  ground.  Her  progeny 
are  whitish  fleshy  grubs,  which  eat  through  the  bark,  and 
remain  there  the  first  winter ;  the  following  season  it  ascends 
some  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  into  the  tree,  throwing  out  dust, 
by  which  it  is  usually  detected.  The  third  year  it  leaves 
the  tree,  assuming  the  beetle  form  (Saperdabivittati).  After 
it  has  once  penetrated  the  tree,  it  must  be  destroyed  by 
piercing  it  with  some  bit  of  wire  or  sharp  instrument,  or  by 
applying  the  knife  or  chisel.  We  have  seen  them  extracted 
in  a  perfect  state  by  a  lady  with  a  simple  hair-pin. 

The  best  of  all  modes  for  getting  rid  of  these  and  other 
insects  are  those  which  tend  to  keep  the  tree  and  soil,  and 
even  the  atmosphere,  in  an  ungrateful,  inhospitable  attitude 
towards  them. 

In  June,  small  bonfires  destroy  the  beetle  which  is  the 
future  borer,  by  thousands.  They  should  be  placed  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  orchard ;  a  few  shavings  or  a  little  tow, 
a  pitch-pine  knot,  or  a  few  handfuls  of  any  dry,  combustible 
matter,  will  answer  the  purpose.  In  June  also,  the  bark  of 
the  tree  should  be  scraped,  and  be  bathed  with  various 
washes.  A  wash  made  of  soap-suds  and  whale-oil  soap,  in 
the  proportion  of  two  pounds  of  the  soap  to  fifteen  gallons  of 
water,  is  known  to  be  beneficial.  It  is  frequently  applied 
with  a  syringe. 

Water  in  which  refuse  tobacco-leaves,  wormwood,  and 
burdock  have  been  steeped,  is  also,  if  made  into  a  strong  de- 
coction, efficacious. 

A  solution  of  potash,  of  about  a  pound  to  two  gallons  of 
water,  is  used  with  advantage. 
3* 


30  APPLE. 

When  lime  is  used,  it  should  always  be  in  solution  with 
something  else,  as  it  binds  the  bark  of  the  tree,  and  prevents 
the  dews,  air,  and  rains  exerting  their  influence. 

A  little  salt  placed  in  a  circle  round  the  tree,  if  repeated 
only  in  small  quantities,  is  fatal  to  many  insects,  and,  with 
the  precaution  necessary  for  using  so  powerful  an  agent,  not 
injurious  to  the  tree.  Hen-manure,  ashes,  sulphur,  soot, 
snuff,  and  any  strong-smelling  substances,  may  be  placed 
round  the  tree.  Fish  oil  and  offal  is  disagreeable  to  many 
insects. 

Bottles,  left  uncorked,  and  half  filled  with,  some  sweet 
preparation,  and  tied  upon  the  branches  of  trees,  are  an  ex- 
cellent trap  for  winged  insects  which  pierce  the  blossom  and 
the  fruit. 

Birds  destroy  great  numbers  of  insects,  and  guns  should 
never  be  fired  off  in  orchards  and  gardens. 

Belts  or  bandages  of  canvas  are  tied  round  apple  and 
other  trees,  and  covered  with  tar,  mixed  with  train  oil,  to 
keep  it  moist.  These  belts,  if  kept  in  a  fresh  state,  will  keep 
the  female  of  the  cankerworm  from  ascending  the  tree  to 
lay  her, eggs.  Many  persons  apply  the  bandage  in  the 
fall  in  October,  and  keep  it  on  till  late  in  the  spring. 

Old  India-ruUber,  subjected  to  great  heat  in  an  iron  pot, 
forms  an  excellent  substance  for  smearing  the  bandages  ;  it 
is  highly  adhesive,  and,  effectually  resisting  the  atmosphere, 
it  seldom  requires  to  be  renewed. 

Another  practice  which  is  much  recommended  by  culti- 
vators is  to  dig  round  the  tree,  and  bury  rock-weed  that 
has  grown  by  the  sea-shore,  throwing  the  earth  over  the 
weed,  and  treading  it  down  lightly,  or  passing  the  roller 
over  it. 

Always  have  a  space  immediately  round  the  trees  kept 
perfectly  free  from  weeds,  so  that  insects  can  be  more  readily 
discovered. 


APPLE.  31 

GATHERING  AND  KEEPING  THE  APPLE. 

Apples  should  be  gathered  in  dry  weather,  and  those 
which  are  to  be  stored  for  winter  use  plucked  by  the  hand. 
Delay  gathering  the  fruit  till  there  is  serious  apprehension 
of  frost.  The  most  approved  way  then  is  to  place  the  fruit 
immediately  into  tight,  dry  flour-barrels,  packing  it  closely, 
and  heading  it  up  quite  full,  to  prevent  bursting  in  rolling. 
They  are  then  placed  in  some  shady  exposure,  some  shed 
open  to  the  air,  or  under  the  trees,  protected  by  boards 
placed  under  and  over  the  barrels,  or  at  the  north  side  of 
the  building,  the  barrels  being  similarly  protected  by  boards  5 
in  such  places  they  remain  a  few  weeks,  or  till  extreme 
cold  weather,  when  they  are  carefully  transferred  to  a  dry, 
cool  cellar,  where  air  can  be  occasionally  let  in  from  the 
outer  atmosphere  on  days  not  too  cold. 

The  barrels  should  be  placed  on  their  side,  and  kept 
as  dark  as  possible.  The  colder  apples  can  be  preserved 
throughout  the  winter  without  reaching  the  freezing  point, 
the  better  for  winter  fruit.  Packed  in  dry,  close  barrels, 
apples  will  bear  a  frost  nearly  twelve  degrees  below  freezing 
temperature. 

Before  entering  upon  the  uses  of  the  apple,  we  would 
advise  every  housekeeper  to  provide  herself  with  a  tin  apple- 
corer,  a  cheap  and  useful  article  for  extracting  the  cores  of 
apples,  and  also  with  a  tin  apple-roaster,  that  can  be  put  be- 
fore the  fire. 

APPLE  BATTER. 

Take  twelve  juicy  apples,  slice  them  thin,  and  stir  them 
into  a  batter  prepared  thus.  Take  six  eggs,  beat  them  quite 
light ;  stir  them,  with  flour  enough  to  make  a  batter  a  little 
thicker  than  pound  cake,  into  a  pint  of  rich  milk ;  stir  them 
in  alternately  with  the  fruit,  and  just  before  you  put  it  into 
the  oven,  stir  in  a  little  melted  butter.  Bake  in  a  deep  dish. 


32  APPLE. 

Serve  it  with  sugar,  butter,  and  nutmeg,  or  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

ArpLE  BUTTER. 

This  is  often  made  and  sold  by  the  barrel.  It  is  made 
by  slicing  and  paring  sweet  apples,  and  boiling  them  in  new 
cider  till  they  have  a  smooth,  thick  consistency. 

APPLES  DRIED. 

When  small  quantities  are  prepared,  it  is  usual  to  pare, 
quarter,  and  core  them  by  hand,  and  dry  them  in  the  sun. 
"Where  they  are  intended  for  large  market  sales,  they  are 
pared  and  quartered  by  machinery,  and  dried  slowly  in 
ovens.  Buy  those  which  look  clean. 

In  cooking  dried  apples  they  should  be  allowed  to  simmer 
slowly  some  time  before  the  sugar  is  added.  Flavor  dried 
apple-sauce  with  a  few  drops  of  fresh  lemon-juice  and  the 
grate  of  the  peel.  Always  pick  over  dried  apples,  and,  if 
necessary,  wash  them  through  one  or  two  basins  of  water ; 
but  soaked  too  long,  they  are  insipid,  leathery,  and  unhealthy, 
if  the  same  water  is  not  used  to  stew  them  in. 

APPLE  DUMPLING. 

Take  a  quart  of  sifted  flour  and  half  a  pound  of  sweet 
lard  or  butter,  and  a  salt-spoon  of  salt.  Put  to  the  flour 
enough  water  to  make  a  tender  paste  ;  roll  it  out,  and  work 
in  the  butter  or  lard  as  you  would  paste.  Cut  the  paste  into 
circular  bits,  about  the  size  of  a  small  plate,  and  put  a  cup- 
ful of  sliced  apples  into  each  piece.  Throw  them  into  boil- 
ing water,  and  boil  them  not  quite  half  an  hour.  Serve 
them  with  butter,  sugar,  and  nutmeg,  or  a  made  sweet  sauce. 

APPLE  JELLY. 

Both  the  Scarlet  and  Yellow  Siberian  Crabs  make  an 
agreeable  jelly ;  the  Yellow  Belle-Fleur  is  also  a  desirable 


APPLE.  33 

fruit  for  this  purpose.  An  over-ripe  or  mawkishly-sweet 
apple  is  not  suitable  for  jellies.  Those  which  are  tender, 
juicy,  and  have  a  sub-acid  taste,  are  best  for  the  making 
of  jelly. 

Wipe  your  apples,  and  cut  from  them  the  eye  and  stem ; 
then  slice  them,  and  put  them  into  a  stone  jar.  Put  the  jar 
into  a  pot  of  water,  and  let  them  boil  till  the  apple  is  tender. 
Take  them  out  carefully,  and  put  them  into  a  deep  flannel  or 
linen  bag.  To  every  pint  of  juice  put  a  pound  of  powdered 
white  sugar ;  let  it  dissolve  ;  put  it  into  a  porcelain-lined  ket- 
tle over  the  fire,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Pour  it  while 
warm  into  small  glasses,  and  tie  them  down  with  brandied 
papers. 

APPLE  MARMALADE. 

Take  four  pounds  of  sugar,  put  them  into  a  preserving- 
kettle,  and  throw  on  to  it  not  quite  a  quart  of  water  ;  stir  it 
till  dissolved  ;  put  it  over  the  fire ;  as  it  boils  up,  throw  in  a 
cupful  of  cold  water.  Have  ready  four  pounds  of  sliced 
apple.  Choose  for  marmalade  a  nice  dessert  apple,  of  rather 
acid  flavor  and  fine-grained  flesh.  Let  it  boil  quite  slowly 
till  the  apple  breaks  up,  and  can  be  stirred  into  a  smooth, 
even  appearance ;  afterward  let  it  boil  quickly,  to  increase 
the  evaporation  of  the  liquid,  and,  just  before  taking  it  up, 
add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  Put  it  into  china  or  earthen 
jars,  and  paste  it  or  tie  it  down  closely. 

Apple  marmalade  is  often  put  into  moulds.  If  not  to  be 
used  immediately,  it  must  be  brandied,  papered,  and  tied  up 
very  closely,  and  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  Wet  the  mould 
in  hot  water  before  attempting  to  turn  it  out. 

APPLES  MERINGUED. 

Select  handsome  Pippins  or  Greenings  of  the  same  size, 
and,  with  the  aid  of  the  apple-corer,  pare  and  core  them 


34  APPLE. 

whole.  Put  them  into  the  oven  with  a  little  water,  in  a 
deep  earthen  dish.  Let  them  plump,  but  not  break.  Take 
them  out  into  a  flat  dish,  and,  when  cold,  fill  the  centre  of 
each  apple  with  .jelly.  Make  an  icing  with  the  whites  of 
eggs  thickened  with  powdered  loaf-sugar,  and  flavored  with 
lemon-juice,  and  put  it  on  to  each  apple  in  as  handsome 
a  form  as  possible,  wetting  the  knife  you  use  with  cold 
water  as  you  place  it  on.  Sift  a  little  white  sugar  over 
them,  and  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  with  the  door 
open ;  allow  them  to  remain  there  but  a  few  seconds,  as 
the  jelly  might  run  out,  and  spoil  the  appearance  of  the 
whole. 

APPLE  PANCAKES  OR  FRITTERS. 

These  are  frequently  made  by  adding  a  little  more  flour 
than  is  given  to  a  common  pancake  batter,  and  stirring  in 
slices  of  uncooked  apple.  The  following  is  a  little  richer. 
Take  some  of  the  finest-flavored  dessert  apples,  pare  them, 
and  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  put  them  into  a  small  dish,  add 
to  them  a  little  brandy,  some  white  wine,  a  small  grated 
nutmeg,  and  cover  them  with  powdered  loaf-sugar ;  let  them 
stand  some  hours.  Prepare  a  batter,  by  taking  half  a  pound 
of  sifted  flour,  a  salt-spoon  of  salt,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
beaten  very  lightly,  a  little  melted  butter,  and  as  much 
water  as  will  make  a  thin  batter.  Drain  the  apples,  and 
put  them  into  the  batter,  —  one  large  spoonful  of  batter  and 
a  .slice  of  apple  for  each  fritter.  Fry  them  quickly  in  hot 
fat,  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  put  them  into  a  warm  dish, 
sifting  white  sugar  on  to  them,  and  glazing  them  as  you  lay 
them  in. 

APPLE  PIE. 

Select  some  of  the  finest  Pippins  or  Belle-Fleur  apples, 
pare  and  core  and  halve  them ;  sift  a  little  powdered  sugar 


APPLE.  35 

over  them.  Have  ready  a  rich  sirup,  made  of  four  pounds 
of  loaf-sugar  broken  up,  two  pints  of  pure  water  and  a  wine- 
glass of  rose-water,  and  the  white  of  an  egg.  Let  the  sugar 
dissolve  before  you  put  the  kettle  over  the  fire,  and  reserve 
a  cup  of  the  water  to  be  put  in  at  the  first  boil  up,  when  it 
is  to  be  carefully  skimmed ;  at  the  second  boiling,  put  in  the 
rose-water,  and  take  off  the  kettle.  Put  it  away  to  get  cold 
into  a  deep  earthen  dish. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  preserving-kettle  with  apples,  and 
pour  enough  sirup  on  to  cover  them,  put  a  stick  of  cinna- 
mon in,  and  boil  them  till  tender  and  transparent,  but  do  not 
allow  them  to  break.  Take  them  out  carefully,  on  a  flat 
dish,  with  their  sirup,  and  proceed  in  the  same  way  till  you 
have  preserved  your  whole  fruit.  Save  a  little  of  the 
sirup. 

Make  a  rich  pie-paste,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  plate 
intended  for  your  pie  with  a  thin  piece  of  the  paste ;  put 
your  apple  in,  piling  it  up,  so  as  to  give  a  plumpness  to 
the  pie.  Cover  with  a  rich  paste,  ornamenting  the  sides 
with  a  paste-cutter.  When  the  pies  are  baked,  take  a  knife, 
and  carefully  lift  up  the  top  paste  ;  if  they  have  cooked  dry, 
take  a  small  spoon,  and  put  in  some  of  the  sirup  you  saved. 
Bake  the  pie  a  very  light  color. 

APPLE  SAUCE. 

Take  twelve  large,  rich  apples  of  an  acid  quality,  pare 
and  core  them,  and  put  them  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  or 
saucepan  with  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  water.  Boil  them  till 
they  are  perfectly  tender ;  take  them  off,  and  stir  in  a  small 
piece  of  fresh  butter,  one  pound  of  white  powdered  sugar, 
and  a  little  pounded  orange-peel.  Apple  prepared  in  this 
way,  with  the  same  quantity  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  melted  butter,  the  juice  of  three  lemons  and  the  grate  of 
one,  and  the  yolk  of  eight  eggs,  mixed  well  together,  and  a 


36  APPLES    OP  LOVE. 

little  sugar  sifted  from  a  fine  sieve  after  it  is  all  beaten 
lightly  and  well  mixed,  and  baked  in  a  puff-paste,  makes 
a  very  nice  pudding. 

Apple  sauce  to  be  eaten  with  meat  should  have  much  less 
sugar.  • 

APPLE  OR  CAROLINA  SNOWBALLS. 

Take  the  core  out  of  as  many  large  Pippins  as  you  may 
wish  to  make  snowballs,  and  fill  the  centres  of  the  apples 
with  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut  very  fine  ;  put  two  spoonfuls 
of  rice  in  a  cloth  which  will  cover  the  apple,  putting  the  rice 
all  around  the  apple.  Tie  the  cloth,  and  boil  them  an  hour. 
Make  a  sweet,  rich  sauce  of  butter,  wine,  and  loaf-sugar  to 
eat  with  them. 

APPLE  TEA  OR  WATER. 

Slice  large  Pippins  into  thin  bits,  and  cut  a  little  of  the 
peel  of  a  fresh  lemon  on  to  them,  put  them  into  a  pitcher, 
and  pour  over  them  some  boiling  water.  Let  it  stand,  cov- 
ered closely,  near  the  fire,  for  several  hours.  Pour  it  into 
glasses,  and  sweeten  it  with  loaf-sugar.  It"  is  a  grateful  and 
cooling  drink  for  invalids. 

APPLES  BAKED. 

Apples  baked  in  a  tin  roaster,  with  a  little  West  India 
molasses  or  sugar-house  sirup  poured  over  them,  and  eaten 
with  cream  or  rich  milk,  are  very  nice.  A  rich-flavored, 
sweet  apple  is  to  be  preferred  for  this  dish. 

APPLES  OF  LOVE  (Poma  amoris,  Tomato).  This 
vegetable  has  been  for  the  last  twenty  years  very  generally 
cultivated  in  America.  It  was  introduced  from  France. 
There  are  several  varieties.  For  the  culture  of  Tomato,  see 
Art  of  Gardening  ;  and  for  cooking,  see  receipts  under  the 
respective  heads. 


APRICOT.  37 

APRICOT  (Armeniaca  vulgaris).  This  early  fruit  is 
often  nipped  by  frost,  and  if  it  escapes  this  blight  its  blos- 
soms are  pierced  by  insects.  In  Virginia  I  have  seen  farm- 
ers keep  the  snow  round  the  trunk  of  the  tree  as  long  as 
possible,  to  retard  premature  blossoming.  Nets  are  some- 
times thrown  over  the  tree,  as  a  partial  protection  from  the 
attacks  of  flies  and  wasps.  Flambeaus  of  tar  and  tow  stuck 
into  the  earth  and  ignited  at  night  will  destroy  many  of  these 
insects.  • 

The  apricot  thrives  best  budded  on  the  plum  (July  is  the 
most  desirable  month  for  budding  it),  being  more  healthy 
than  when  growing  from  its  own  root ;  and  it  can  also  adapt 
itself  to  a  stronger  soil  when  so  budded,  which  also  leads  to 
healthy  habits. 

APRICOTS  IN  BRANDY 

Gather  apricots  from  the  tree  (if  possible)  not  too  ripe. 
Rub  them  with  a  coarse  towel.  Prepare  a  sirup  with  loaf- 
sugar  of  not  more  than  half  the  weight  of  the  apricots,  and 
water  enough  to  dissolve  it.  After  the  sirup  is  prepared, 
put  the  fruit  in  carefully,  and  let  it  simmer  a  few  moments 
only ;  take  the  fruit  out,  and  lay  it  on  flat  dishes  to  cool. 
Boil  and  skim  the  sirup  till  it  is  quite  thick  and  rich.  Put 
the  apricots,  when  cold,  into  white  earthen  preserve-jars, 
and  pour  over  them  equal  quantities  of  the  sirup  and 
French  brandy.  Tie  the  jars  with  bladder-skin,  or  paste 
the  paper  on. 

APRICOT  ICE-CREAM. 

Peel  and  stone  the  fruit,  and  pound  it,  with  white  sugar, 
to  a  smooth  mass.  Beat  it  up  lightly,  or  pass  it  through  a 
sieve.  Add  sweetened  whipt-cream  and  a  little  melted  isin- 
glass. Beat  the  whole  with  a  wooden  spoon,  over  ice,  till 
the  whole  is  intimately  blended.  Put  it  into  the  mould,  and 
freeze  it. 

4 


38  AROMATIC   HERBS. 

APRICOT  JAM. 

Peel  and  stone  the  apricots ;  if  they  are  dry,  put  them 
into  an  earthen  pan,  and  throw  a  very  little  boiling  water 
over  them.  Beat  to  a  pulp,  and  take  an  equal  quantity 
of  pounded  or  powdered  loaf-sugar  and  fruit,  and  boil 
them  hard  in  the  preserving  kettle  about  twenty  minutes. 
You  may  blanch  some  of  the  kernels  of  the  apricot,  and  put 
them  on  the  top  of  the  jars  before  you  lay  the  brandy-paper 
over.  Tie  closely.  This  jam  makes  nice  tarts.  In  making 
it,  be  careful  that  it  does  not  stick  to  the  bottom  of  the  kettle. 
It  must  be  stirred  often. 

APRICOT  PRESERVE. 

Choose  apricots,  for  preserving,  that  are  not  overripe. 
This  fruit  too  ripe  is  insipid,  mealy,  and  unfit  to  make  a 
handsome  preserve. 

Stone  and  pare  the  apricots,  keeping  them  as  whole  as 
possible ;  lay  them,  hollow  side  up,  on  a  large  flat  dish,  sift 
white  powdered  sugar  over  them,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  for  the  night.  Put  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of 
fruit,  and  simmer  them  slowly  till  the  fruit  looks  transparent. 
Do  not  put  too  many  at  once  into  the  preserving  pan.  Put 
them  into  glass  jars,  and  cover  closely.  You  may  blanch 
some  of  the  kernels,  and  flavor  with  them.  Apricots  are 
sometimes  preserved  in  apple  jelly. 

Where  apricots  are  plenty,  they  are  dried  in  the  same 
way  as  apples ;  and  a  delicious  liqueur  is  made  from  the 
juice  of  the  fruit. 

AROMATIC  POT   AND   SWEET    HERBS.     The 

seeds  for  the  most  of  the  common  herbs  should  be  sown 
early  in  spring,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and  two  feet 
apart,  each  kind  by  itself.  As  they  grow,  thin  them  out. 


AROMATIC    HERBS.  39 

Some  of  these  herbs  are  annuals,  dying  after  the  first 
year ;  others  are  biennial,  dying  after  perfecting  their  seed 
in  the  second  year ;  others  are  perennial,  bearing  from  the 
same  root  for  many  years,  and  may  be  propagated  by  separ- 
ating the  root,  or  by  suckers  and  cuttings. 

Some  hardy  perennials,  such  as  Balm  (Melissa  officinalis), 
some  of  the  Mint  family  (also  perennials),  such  as  Spear- 
mint (Mentha  viridis),  Peppermint  (Mentha  piperita),  Pen- 
nyroyal Mint  (M.  pulegium),  do  not  require  a  very  rich 
soil,  but  should  have  a  well-drained  or  dry  sub-soil.  The 
beds  should  be  renewed  after  the  fourth  year.  The  mint 
is  a  creeping  herb  that  cannot  be  hoed ;  and  after  the  stalks 
are  cut,  dig  the  sides  of  the  beds,  throw  the  earth  up,  and 
spread  it  gently  and  smoothly  on  the  bed,  with  a  top-dressing 
of  very  rotten  dung. 

I  shall  give  a  catalogue  of  such  herbs  as  are  commonly 
cultivated  and  used  for  seasoning  meats  and  soups,  and  of 
those  which  are  called  in  requisition  when  colds  and  slight 
disorders  disturb  the  household. 

AROMATIC  OR  CULINARY  HERBS. 

Anise,  Pimpinella  anisum. 

Basil,  Sweet,  Ocymum  basilicum. 

Burnet,  Garden,  Poterium  Sanguisorba. 

Caraway,  Carum  carui. 

Marigold,  Pot,  Calendula  officinalis. 

Marjoram,  Sweet,  Origanum- Marj  or  ana. 

Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Mentha  pidegium. 

Sage,  Common,  Salvia  officinalis. 

Savory,  Summer,  Satureja  hortensis. 

Savory,  Winter,  Satureja  montana. 

Spearmint,  Meniha  viridis. 

Thyme,  Common,  Tliymus  vulgaris. 

Thyme,  Lemon,  Thymus  Serpyllum. 


40  AROMATIC    HERBS. 

MEDICINAL  HERBS. 

Boneset,  or  Thorough  wort,  Eupatorium  perfoliatum. 

Balm,  Melissa  officinalis. 

Catmint,  Nepeta  Cataria. 

Chamomile,  Anihemis  nobilis. 

Elecampane,  Inula  Helenium. 

•   Horehound,  Marrubium  vulgare. 

Horsemint,  ,  Monarda  punctata. 

Hyssop,  Hyssopus  officinalis. 

Lavender,  Lavendula  spica. 

Lovage,  Ligusticum  Levisticum. 

Mother  wort,  Leonurus  cardiaca. 

Poppy,  Opium,  Papaver  somniferum. 

Rosemary,  Rosmarinus  officinalis. 

Rue,  Garden,  Ruta  graveolens. 

Tansy,  Tanacetum  vulgare. 

"Wormwood,  Artemisia  absinthium. 

In  the  autumn,  hardy  perennials  like  the  various  Mints, 
and  such  plants  as  Chamomile,  Lovage,  Horehound,  and  Pot 
Marjoram,  should  be  trimmed  close  to  the  ground.  The 
beds  of  such  as  are  shrubby  plants,  and  not  creepers,  should 
be  carefully  dug,  and  the  earth  loosened  around  the  roots  of 
the  plants. 

Tender  plants  must  be  potted  and  housed  for  the  winter. 

Of  Sweet  Basil,  the  two  species  generally  cultivated  are 
annuals.  The  Sweet-scented  or  larger  Basil  (0.  basilicum), 
and  the  Dwarf  Bush  Basil  (0.  minimum).  They  like  a 
light,  rich  soil,  exposed  to  the  sun,  after  they  have  estab- 
lished themselves ;  but  the  younger  plants  require  to  be 
sheltered. 

Of  Marjoram  (Origanum)  there  are  eight  species,  and 
numerous  varieties.  The  common  Pot  Marjoram  has  a 
creeping  root,  and  is  of  a  high  aromatic  flavor. 


AROMATIC    HERBS.  41 

Sweet  or  Summer  Marjoram,  a  favorite  of  the  kitchen,  is 
propagated  always  by  the  seed,  while  the  perennials  can  be 
raised  by  the  roots,  or  from  slips  and  offsets,  which  should 
be  well  watered  till  they  have  taken  root.  The  soil  should 
be  well  pulverized,  and,  after  cuttings  have  been  taken,  care- 
fully stirred,  and  a  top-dressing  of  light,  well-prepared  com- 
post thrown  on  the  top  of  the  bed. 

Summer  Savory  (Satureja  hortensis),  also  in  happy  repu- 
tation, is  an  annual. 

Sage  (Salvia  officinalis).  There  are  several  varieties  of 
this  herb.  The  common  Garden  Sage  requires  a  light  soil, 
but  if  too  much  enriched  it  soon  exhausts  itself.  It  is  culti- 
vated by  seed,  and  also  by  rooted  offsets,  and  sometimes  by 
cuttings  from  the  healthier  shoots,  which  have  thrown  them- 
selves out  at  the  sides  of  the  plant.  Put  the  shoots  deep  into 
the  ground,  leaving  only  the  top  leaves  above  the  surface. 

Thyme  (yulgaris).  This  herb  is  propagated  by  seed  and 
rooted  slips.  The  lemon-scented  variety  is  a  favorite.  The 
seed  is  never  covered  more  than  about  half  an  inch  below  the 
ground.  It  should  be  sown  plentifully,  and  when  they  have 
been  up  a  few  weeks,  thinned  out.  It  is  called  perennial, 
but  it  hardly  ever  survives  the  rigor  of  a  New  England 
winter.  Too  much  water  causes  the  roots  to  decay.  The 
soil  should  not  be  over  rich,  but  very  nicely  pulverized. 
The  roots,  when  young,  should  be  sheltered  from  the  noon- 
day sun  ;  afterwards  they  may  be  transplanted  to  a  more 
exposed  situation.  Thyme  is  a  running  herb,  and  conse- 
quently cannot  be  hoed.  When  the  stalks  are  cut,  the  weeds 
should  be  carefully  removed,  and  a  little  light  soil  and  very 
rotten  manure  thrown  on  the  surface  of  the  bed. 

Medicinal  herbs  are  not  in  such  full  reign  as  formerly. 
The  author  well  recollects  hearing  the   Rev.  Dr.  Bentley 
say  that  he  drank  sage  tea  for  every  bodily  ailment,  even 
for  a  wounded  foot. 
4* 


42  AROMATIC    HERBS. 

Mineral  medicines  have  superseded,  in  a  great  degree,  the 
use  of  herbs. 

Wormwood  is  still  used,  mixed  with  rum,  for  allaying 
feverish  excitement  incident  to  bruises  and  sprains. 

The  Oil  of  Rosemary  is  at  present  an  ingredient  in  certain 
lotions. 

Poppy  is  yet  in  merited  esteem.  An  infusion  of  white 
poppy  leaves  for  bathing  weak  eyes  is  often  beneficial,  and 
poppy  leaves  laid  on  the  top  of  poultices  for  healing  purposes, 
have  a  soothing  effect. 

Hyssop  tea  is  used  for  infantine  disorders,  and  joins  with 
Catmint  in  making  a  nourishing  drink  for  infants. 

Motherjkvort  tea  continues  to  be  considered  a  harmless 
tonic,  and  Thoroughwort  a  wholesome  purgative,  while 
Chamomile  plays  an  undisputed  part  in  restoring  tone  to 
a  weak  stomach. 

Pennroyal  is  generally  dried  on  the  stalk,  and  hung  up 
in  paper  bags.  It  makes  a  soothing  and  agreeable  tea.  It 
is  much  used  as  a  defence  against  wood-ticks  and  fleas, 
and  is  sometimes  put  round  a  horse's  harness  to  keep  the 
flies  off. 

Tansy,  though  not  able  to  come  to  amicable  terms  with 
every  stomach,  is  drunk  by  many  as  a  tonic,  and  to  extermi- 
nate worms.  Meat  rubbed  with  tansy  leaves  is  said  to  keep 
off  the  visits  of  the  flesh-fly.  Many  books  give  us  receipts 
for  making  tansy  pudding,  but  I  have  never  seen  the  person 
who  has  eaten  one,  —  that  is,  to  my  knowledge. 

Herbs  are  dried  for  winter  use  in  an  oven,  quick  and 
thoroughly,  taking  care  not  to  burn  them ;  take  the  leaves 
from  the  stalks,  pound  and  sift,  and  bottle  them  closely,  or 
put  them  into  close-fitting  tin  boxes. 

Vinegars  are  frequently  flavored  with  herbs ;  they  make 
a  nice  seasoning  for  some  sauces,  hashes,  and  ragouts. 

Gather  the  leaves  fresh  on  a  dry,  sunny  day,  and  pick 


ARSENIC.  43 

them  carefully.  Fill  a  stone  jar  with  such  herbs  as  you 
prefer  for  flavoring,  and  pour  some  wine  or  cider  vinegar 
over  them,  and  let  them  steep  for  nine  or  ten  days ;  then 
strain,  and  bottle  the  liquid. 

Wine  extracts  the  virtues  of  herbs  and  roots  in  the  same 
manner  as  vinegar,  and  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 
Herb  wines  are  often  used  for  beef,  and  dishes  made  from 
calf's  head. 

ARROWROOT.  This  farinaceous  substance  is  taken 
from  the  roots  of  certain  plants.  The  Jamaica  and  Ber- 
muda are  considered  as  nice  as  any.  Gruels  and  jellies 
made  from  arrowroot  are  relished  by  invalids  and  children, 
and  are  desirable  occasionally  for  all,  as  a  change  from  hear- 
tier diet.  Arrowroot  does  not  require  to  be  boiled,  but  it  is 
much  healthier  to  be  cooked.  In  using  it  either  for  gruel 
or  blancmange  or  puddings,  you  must  first  wet  the  arrowroot, 
as  you  would  starch,  before  adding  to  it  the  full  quantity  of 
liquid. 

ARROWROOT  BLANCMANGE. 

Mix  in  a  little  cold  water  two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot, 
and  pour  over  it  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  sweetened  and  fla- 
vored to  your  taste  or  present  wants.  Put  the  mixture 
over  the  fire,  and  stir  it  constantly  for  two  or  three  minutes. 
You  can  turn  it  into  a  mould,  and  garnish  with  colored 
jellies. 

ARROWROOT  GRUEL. 

Mix  a  little  arrowroot,  not  quite  a  table-spoonful,  and  pour 
over  it  boiling  water  ;  season  it  with  a  salt-spoon  of  salt  (not 
heaped),  a  little  white  sugar,  and  nutmeg. 

ARSENIC,  in  a  metallic  state,  is  of  a  bluish-white  color. 
As  an  acid,  it-  is  known  as  a  sudden  and  virulent  poison. 


44  ARTICHOKE. 

Arsenic  is  frequently  used  in  the  manufacture  of  glass  and 
the  nicer  kinds  of  porcelain ;  for  this  reason,  it  is  not  well  to 
set  aside  acids  in  cups  and  drinking-glasses,  with  an  inten- 
tion of  using  the  liquid,  as  the  alkali  in  the  glass  may  be 
sufficient,  when  brought  in  conjunction  with  acids,  to  hold 
the  arsenic  in  solution.  Arsenic  is  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  shot,  and  when  shot  is  used  to  cleanse  bottles,  care  should 
be  taken  to  throw  them  all  out  in  the  final  rinsing.  Many 
paints  have  arsenic  for  their  basis. 

When  arsenic  has  been  swallowed,  give  large  quantities 
of  sugar  and  water,  and  at  the  same  time  administer  a  gen- 
erous dose  of  ipecacuanha,  which  may  be  repeated ;  if  the 
latter  cannot  be  had  immediately,  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of 
made  mustard,  diluted  in  warm  water,  may  induce  vomiting. 
Oil  is  never  to  be  taken  till  the  poison  is  entirely  ejected. 
After  the  patient  has  happily  passed  the  crisis,  some  simple 
matters,  such  as  barley  or  rice  water,  milk,  or  flax-seed  tea, 
can  be  taken  to  quiet  the  stomach. 

ARTICHOKE  (Cynara).  There  are  two  varieties,  the 
oval  green  Cynara  Scolymus,  or  French,  and  Cynara  hor- 
tensis,  or  Globe  Artichoke.  The  latter  is  considered  best 
for  common  culture,  the  heads  being  larger,  and  producing 
more  eatable  substance,  and  being  without  the  strong,  mawk- 
ish, perfumed  taste  peculiar  to  the  French,  or  oval  green. 
Both  varieties  may  be  cultivated  from  the  seed  or  sucker 
taken  from  large  plants  early  in  spring.  It  is  perennial,  but, 
like  everything  else,  it  is  the  better  for  frequent  renewals ; 
a  bed  will,  however,  under  favorable  circumstances  of  soil 
and  climate,  continue  to  produce  heads  five  or  six  years. 
They  require  a  loose,  light,  and  moist  soil.  The  seed  should 
be  sown  about  an  inch  deep,  and  at  such  distances  as  to 
allow  the  earth,  when  the  plants  are  up,  to  be  lightened 
around  them.  If  a  plant  throws  out  a  great  many  suck- 


ARTICHOKE,   JERUSALEM.  45 

ers,  some  should  be  removed,  in  order  that  the  remain- 
der may  be  more  vigorous  for  transplanting.  Transplant 
them,  in  cloudy  weather,  to  a  rich,  moist  soil,  and  water 
them  frequently  while  rooting.  For  winter  protection,  the 
roots  must  be  covered  with  a  light  mould,  close  to  their 
leaves,  and  a  little  well-rotted  manure  thrown  over  them. 
If  the  compost  is  too  rich,  it  will  cause  them  to  decay. 

Whon  ripe,  the  scales  expand.  They  should  be  cut  before 
the  flower  makes  its  appearance.  Cut  the  stem  always 
close  to  the  ground. 

The  Artichoke  is  not  regarded  as  a  very  nourishing  vege- 
table ;  but  it  is  much  esteemed  by  those  who  have  acquired 
a  relish  for  it.  When  gathered,  they  should  be  thrown  into 
cold  water,  and  be  well  washed,  and  then  be  put  into  fresh 
cold  water,  and  soaked  for  about  an  hour,  before  they  are 
cooked.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt, 
and  if  fully  grown  boil  them  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  till  they 
are  tender.  Drain  them,  and  serve  them  with  melted  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt.  In  Europe,  artichokes,  when  dried,  are 
baked  with  mushrooms  in  meat  pies. 

ARTICHOKE,  JERUSALEM  (Helianthus  tuberosus). 
This  is  a  native  of  America,  as  indeed  are  all  the  plants  of 
the  Sunflower  genus.  Professor  Low  (Elements  of  Practi- 
cal Agriculture)  says :  "  Although  believed  to  be  a  native  of 
the  warmer  parts  of  America,  it  is  one  of  the  hardiest  of  our 
cultivated  plants,  very  productive,  easily  propagated,  and 
growing  on  the  poorest  soils.  As  compared  with  the  tubers 
of  the  potato,  they  are  watery,  and  may  be  believed  to  be 
inferior  in  nutritive  properties.  But  the  quantity  is  fre- 
quently very  large  ;  about  five  hundred  bushels  per  acre,  it 
is  said,  having  been  produced  without  manure.  The  tubers 
do  not  seem  to  have  great  fattening  properties,  but  they  are 
eagerly  eaten  by  animals." 


46  ART    OF   GARDENING. 

They  are  cultivated  in  a  similar  manner  to  potatoes.  If 
the  stems  are  pruned,  the  tubers  will  be  improved.  They 
require  to  be  placed  three  or  four  feet  apart,  in  rows  or  drills, 
to  be  occasionally  hoed,  and  to  be  kept  free  of  weeds.  They 
are  also  cooked  with  the  same  variety  that  the  potato  enjoys. 

They  are  commonly  boiled,  scraped,  carefully  drained, 
mashed,  and  a  little  cream  and  butter  beaten  into  them, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 

They  are  sometimes  parboiled,  and  then  placed  in  a  pan 
under  roasting  meat,  and  either  sent  to  the  table  on  the  dish 
with  the  meat,  or  served  separately.  They  may  be  boiled 
plain,  and  served  with  melted  butter  poured  over  them. 

ART  OF  GARDENING.  Mr.  Roscoe,  the  elegant 
author  of  the  Lives  of  Lorenzo  de  Medicis  and  of  Leo  the 
Tenth,  speaking  from  personal  experience,  —  for  he,  like  his* 
father  before  him,  had  been  an  active  laborer  in  agricultural 
pursuits,  —  has  said :  "  If  I  were  asked  whom  I  consider  to 
be  the  happiest  of  the  human  race,  I  should  answer,  those 
who  cultivate  the  earth  with  their  own  hands." 

As  most  houses  in  villages  have  vegetable  gardens,  we 
shall  give  some  brief  hints  upon  the  making  and  preserving 
such  gardens ;  these  suggestions  have  been  gathered  from 
experience  and  the  best  authorities. 

The  largest  produce  with  the  smallest  expense,  is  the 
favorite  axiom  of  the  gardener,  as  of  the  larger  agriculturist. 
To  attain  this  end,  there  should  be  a  careful  husbandry  of 
every  kind  of  fertilizer  ;  chip-dust,  bones,  decayed  or  decay- 
ing leaves,  soot,  dish  and  stale  meat-pickle  water,  ashes, 
liquid  manures,  should  all  be  brought  into  requisition  by  the 
careful  housewife. 

The  soil  of  the  garden  should  be  light,  well  pulverized, 
and  kept  hi  good  spirits  by  liquid  manures.  Weeds  should 
be  carefully  extirpated.  One  cannot  always  choose  the 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  47 

site.  Mr.  Forsyth  says :  "  A  garden,  if  possible,  should  be 
on  a  gentle  declivity  towards  the  south,  a  little  inclining  to 
the  east,  to  receive  the  benefit  of  the  morning  sun."  Low 
bottom  lands  are  subjected  to  blights,  mildews,  and  frosts, 
and,  on  the  other  hand,  a  too  lofty  situation  is  exposed  to 
merciless  winds,  that  break  the  branches  of  trees  and  shrub- 
bery, and  scatter  prematurely  the  blossoms  of  the  orchard. 

Having  secured  as  good  a  situation  as  circumstances  per- 
mit, and  made  art  supply  original  defects  of  situation,  the 
next  step  is  to  ascertain  the  nature  of  the  soil.  If  it  be  very 
wet,  drains  must  be  dug  to  carry  off  the  superfluous  water. 
These  drains  must  be  made  to  draw  into  the  main  drain, 
which  can  be  laid  under  the  principal  walk  of  the  garden. 
In  a  small  garden  of  an  acre,  one  well-constructed  drain  will 
generally  be  sufficient,  if  the  soil  be  not  deplorably  wet. 

A  cold,  stubborn,  clayey  soil  requires  to  be  lightened  by 
horse-manure,  wood  and  coal  ashes,  sand,  and  chip-dust,  in 
order  to  become  porous,  and  accessible  to  the  outer  atmos- 
phere. 

Dry  and  sandy  soils  require  manures  which  will  increase 
their  weight,  and  promote  an  adhesiveness  favorable  to  the 
retention  of  moisture.  Cow-manure,  river-mud,  clay,  fish- 
offal,  can  be  given  to  such  soils  with  advantage. 

Ground  which  retains  moisture,  and  is  neither  very  sandy 
nor  very  clayey,  which  in  drying  does  not  bake  in  obstinate 
sour  cakes,  has  a  good  constitution  for  the  produce  of  most 
vegetables. 

If  your  land  is  new,  it  will  require  two  or  three  deep 
ploughings  before  it  can  be  worked. 

The  implements  for  a  garden  may  easily  be  multiplied  to 
a  useless  excess.  A  skilful  gardener  brings  his  labor  about 
with  comparatively  few  tools. 

Two  spades,  of  different  forms,  a  hand  hoe,  a  garden  rake, 
an  asparagus  fork,  one  or  two  drilling-machines  for  sowing 


48  ART    OP   GARDENING. 

seed,  a  wheelbarrow,  and,  if  convenient,  a  roller  for  paths 
and  to  smooth  beds  just  after  the  putting  in  of  seed,  will  be 
all  that  is  requisite  for  a  common  kitchen  garden;  other 
wants,  as  they  arise,  being  readily  supplied  by  an  ingenious 
person.  Sieves  for  covering  squashes  from  the  heat  of  the 
sun  while  young  can  be  made  of  home  manufacture ;  a  roller 
can  be  supplied  by  boards  laid  on  the  ground,  but  neither 
roller  nor  boards  should  be  used  while  the  ground  is  wet ; 
and  coal-ashes  for  walks  make  hard,  clean  paths,  and  tend 
to  keep  off  insects ;  even  the  drilling  may  be  done  by  hoes 
or  dibbles,  after  a  line  is  stretched,  and  the  distances  marked 
for  the  different  rows. 

I  propose  to  make  a  few  remarks  upon  the  following 
common  garden  vegetables ;  viz.  Common  Bean  (Faba  vul- 
garis), Common  Beet  (Beta  vulgaris),  Cabbage  (Brassica 
oleraced),  Carrot  (Daucus  Carota),  Celery  (Apium  grave- 
olens),  Cress  (Lapidium  sativum),  Cucumber  (Cucumis  sa- 
tivd),  Chives  (Allium  Schcenoprasum),  Horseradish  (Coch- 
learia  Armor  acid),  Indian  Corn  (Zea  Mays),  Lettuce  (Lac- 
tuca  saliva  crispa),  Melon  (Cucumis  Melo),  Water-Melon 
(Cucurbita  Citrullus),  Mustard  (Sinapis),  Onion  (Allium 
Cepa),  Parsley  (Apium  Petroselinum),  Parsnip  (Pastinaca 
sativa),  Peas  (Pisum  sativuni),  Pepper  (Capsicum),  Potato 
(Solanum  tuberosum).  Pumpkin  (Cucurbita  Pepo),  Radish 
(Raphanus  saliva).  Rhubarb  (Rheum),  Salsify  (Tragopogon 
porrifolius),  Common  Spinach  (Spinacia  oleracea),  Squash 
(Cucurbita  Melopepo),  Tomato  (Solanum  Lycopersicuni), 
Turnip  (Brassica  Rapa). 

BEAN  (Faba  vulgaris). 

There  are  great  varieties  of  the  Common  Bean.  The 
English  Garden  Bean  requires  care  in  this  country,  as  our 
summers  are  apt  to  wilt  and  destroy  the  blossom.  They 
should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible,  in  drills 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  49 

not  quite  two  inches  deep  and  three  or  four  inches  apart, 
with  an  interval  between  the  drills  of  three  or  four  feet. 
When  a  few  inches  high  they  should  be  hoed,  and  when 
in  full  bloom  the  tops  can  be  broken  off,  that  the  vigor  of 
the  plant  may  be  directed  to  filling  out  the  pods.  Some 
of  the  varieties  of  the  English  Dwarf  are  known  as  Early 
Mazagan,  Broad  Windsor,  Sword  Long  Pod,  Green  Non- 
pareil. 

Kidney  Dwarf  Beans.  —  These  beans  are  from  India, 
South  America,  and  warm  climates,  and  require  care  and 
a  rich  soil.  They  may  be  planted  either  in  hills  or  drills. 
The  drills  should  be  two  or  three  feet  apart,  and  the  beans 
some  inches  asunder.  They  should  be  carefully  hoed  as 
they  grow,  and  the  earth  be  drawn  about  their  stems  from 
time  to  time. 

Among  this  family  of  beans  are  the  delicious  Cranberries ; 
also  the  Refugee,  or  One  Thousand  for  One,  which  is  usually 
planted  in  hills. 

Some  of  the  early  varieties  are  Early  Dun-colored  Quaker, 
Early  Valentine,  Early  Mohawk,  Early  China  Dwarf,  Early 
Yellow  Six-weeks,  Early  Rob  Roy,  Early  Black  Dwarf. 
The  Early  Mohawk  is  considered  the  .  hardiest  of  these 
varieties. 

The  Yellow,  White,  and  Red  Dwarf  Cranberry,  and  the 
Warrington  or  Marrow  Bean,  are  all  delicious  table  veg- 
etables. .  * 

J3eans,  Pole.  —  These  species  are  also  planted  in  hills  or 
drills  ;  the  same  distances,  as  already  mentioned  above,  being 
preserved.  Tall  poles,  ten  feet  high,  are  inserted  in  each 
hill,  or  along  the  drills,  and  the  beans  planted  around  them. 
In  planting  the  Lima  Bean,  it  is  best  to  put  not  less  than 
seven  or  eight  in  each  hill,  as  these  species  of  beans  are  af- 
fected by  damp  weather,  and  often  rot  in  the  ground.  They 
can  afterwards  be  thinned,  so  as  to  leave  but  three  or  four 
5 


50  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

healthy  plants  in  each  hill.  The  Lima  Bean  also  requires 
richer  soil  than  other  running  beans,  and  the  hills  should  be 
four  feet  from  each  other,  on  either  side.  Put  the  seeds 
about  half  an  inch  under  ground. 

Among  the  varieties  of  Pole  Beans  are  the  Red  and 
White  Pole  Cranberry,  the  Large  White  Lima  from  South 
America,  and  the  Saba  or  Small  Lima,  London  Horticul- 
tural Speckled,  White  Dutch  Runners,  Scarlet  Runners, 
and  Asparagus  or  Yard-Long. 

BEET  (Seta  vulgaris). 

Beets  are  biennials.  The  Mangel- Wurzel  is  cultivated 
for  cattle ;  it  takes  its  name  from  the  German ;  it  is  also 
called  Root  of  Scarcity.  It  is  considered  excellent  for  cows, 
highly  nutritious,  inducing  milk,  without  imparting  a  taint  to 
it,  as  turnips  do.  The  highly  blood-colored  are  much  prized 
for  the  table. 

Beets  are  planted  in  drills,  a  foot  apart,  and  not  quite  two 
inches  below  the  surface,  and  thinned  out  as  soon  as  they 
are  strong,  hoed,  and  kept  clear  of  weeds.  It  is  desirable  to 
have  the  earth  in  good  order  by  previous  tillage,  and  not  to 
be  obliged  to  apply  manure  at  the  time  of  putting  the  beet- 
seed  in  the  ground. 

One  of  the  earliest  varieties  is  the  Early  Blood  Turnip- 
rooted. 

•The  French  Sugar  Beet,  white,  red,  and  yellow,  is  used 
extensively  in  Europe  for  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  It  is 
an  excellent  variety  for  the  table.  The  common  Green, 
Red,  and  White  Beet  are  all  desirable  for  the  table.  The 
Early  Spring  are  sometimes  tough  and  stringy,  from  being 
subjected  to  the  changes  of  uncertain  weather.  Under  favor- 
able growth,  the  young  plants  that  are  pulled  for  thinning 
are  served  with  their  tops  on,  and  are  sweet  and  tender. 

For  winter  use  they  should  be  planted  in  July ;  if  too 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  51 

long  in  the  ground,  they  become  coarse  and  corky  for  table 
use. 

The  soil  should  be  finely  pulverized  for  beets,  and,  after 
the  beets  are  up,  well  stirred  by  frequent  hoeings. 

CABBAGE  (Brassica  oleraced). 

The  Cabbage,  says  Professor  Low,  commonly  so  called,  is 
Brassica  oleracea.  This  species  assumes  a  vast  variety  oi 
form  and  character.  The  Wild  Cabbage,  from  which  the 
greater  number  of  the  cultivated  kinds  are  derived,  is  a  little 
plant  growing  upon  our  sea-coasts.  Yet  to  this  plant  w< 
certainly  owe  the  greater  part  of  the  numerous  varieties 
cultivated  in  our  gardens  and  fields.  We  cannot,  indeed,  be 
assured  of  the  origin  of  all  the  cultivated  kinds  ;  besides  the 
variations  produced  by  climate  and  art,  all  the  species  of 
Brassica  form  hybrids  with  one  another. 

With  us  a  variety  of  ways  are  made  use  of  to  bring  forward 
the  Cabbage,  according  to  the  climate  and  soil.  The  early 
kinds  are  raised  in  hot-beds,  and  transplanted  into  beds  of 
rich  soil,  covering  them  at  night  to  protect  them  from  frosts. 
Plants  of  the  early  sorts  may  generally  be  raised  from  seed, 
in  most  of  the  New  England  States,  some  time  in  April, 
unless  the  season  is  quite  backward. 

Cabbages  are  attacked  by  various  worms  and  insects,  which 
sometimes  eat  up  whole  rows.  It  is  well  on  transplanting 
them  to  keep  a  narrow  watch  on  these  depredators,  and  to 
place  a  little  circle  of  salt  round  each  of  the  plants ;  also 
lirne,  ashes,  snuff,  and  pungent-smelling  substances. 

Among  the  early  varieties  are  the  Early  Dutch,  Sugar- 
loaf,  Early  York,  Early  Heart-shaped,  &c. 

The  Yorkshire,  Drumhead,  and  American  or  Bergen  Cab- 
bage have  large  leaves,  which  form  close,  dense  heads. 
These  require  to  be  placed  in  drills  several  feet  apart,  with  an 
interval  between  the  plants  in  the  rows  of  two  or  three  feet. 


52  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

The  seed  of  the  Red  Cabbage  can  be  sown  towards  the 
last  of  April  or  first  of  May  in  favorable  seasons.  This  is  a 
desirable  cabbage  for  pickling,  and  for  winter  salads. 

The  -  seeds  of  the  Savoy,  a  popular  table  variety,  are 
generally  sown  in  New  England  in  May,  in  a  rich,  well- 
prepared  soil.  These  plants,  on  being  transplanted,  will  not 
require  to  be  placed  so  far  apart  as  the  larger  kinds. 

The  richer  and  fresher  the  soil,  the  better  for  the  Cabbage, 
which  also  requires  the  ground  to  be  deeply  stirred  while 
growing,  in  the  same  manner  as  for  turnips. 

Cauliflower  and  Broccoli  are  both  species  of  Cabbage. 
Broccoli  is  not  cultivated  so  universally  with  us  as  the  Cauli- 
flower ;  it  has,  like  the  latter,  large  heads  of  seeds,  only  the 
Broccoli  has  its  seeds  of  different  colors,  purple,  green, 
brown,  arid  white.  The  white  varieties  are  often  mistaken 
for  Cauliflower.  • 

Cauliflower  requires  to  be  protected  from  the  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold.  ,As  the  heads  tend  to  maturity,  the  larger 
leaves  are  broken  over  them  to  preserve  their  purity  of 
color  and  compactness  of  growth.  Over  two  feet  every  way 
should  be  given  as  space  for  the  Cauliflower,  and  from  time 
to  time  the  beds  should  be  forked,  to  keep  the  earth  between 
the  plants  porous  and  open  to  the  atmosphere. 

CARROT  (Daucus  Carota). 

The  Carrot  grows  wild  in  Great  Britain.  It  is  an  ex- 
cellent vegetable  for  cows.  The  Carrot  thrives  best  in  rich 
land,  which  has  been  subjected  to  previous  tillage.  It  is 
sown  in  drills  not  deeper  than  an  inch,  and  the  drills 
about  a  foot  apart.  The  Early  Orange,  the  Long  Orange, 
and  Altingham  are  the  varieties  usually  selected  for  the 
kitchen  garden. 

CELERY  (Apium  graveolens). 

Celery,  as  is  well  known,  is  Smallage  cultivated.     The 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  53 

seed  is  sown  in  cold  beds ;  when  it  is  well  up,  the  plants  are 
put  into  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a 
few  weeks,  when  they  are  transplanted  into  trenches.  These 
trenches  should  be  made  in  the  richest  part  of  the  garden, 
and  dug  a  little  more  than  a  foot  deep,  leaving  the  earth 
thus  taken  out  on  either  side  of  the  trenches.  Some  rotten 
manure  is  mixed  in  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  putting  some 
of  the  loamy  earth  from  the  sides  with  it.  In  the  centre  of 
the  trench  place  the  plants,  leaving  five  or  six  inches  be- 
tween each  plant.  They  should  be  abundantly  watered  and 
partially  shaded  for  the  first  two  or  three  weeks.  They  may 
be  hoed  some  time  before  they  are  earthed.  The  earthing 
should  be  done  in  dry  weather,  otherwise  it  is  apt  to  make 
the  celery  grow  rusty.  Celery  intended  for  winter  is  planted 
later  in  the  summer. 

*  CRESS   (Lapidium  sativum). 

The  Curled,  or  Peppergrass,  is  liked  by  many  with  Lettuce. 
It  is  sown  in  little  drills,  quite  thickly,  and  in  ground  free 
from  weeds.  It  is  of  easy  cultivation. 

CUCUMBER  (Cucumis  sativa). 

The  seed  of  the  cucumber  is  put  into  hills  of  rich  earth, 
well-rotted  manure  being  placed  in  each  hill.  Cucumbers 
are  sometimes  raised  in  the  squash  bed.  The  hills  should 
be  three  or  four  feet  apart.  They  require  water  in  dry 
weather,  and  to  have  the  insects  kept  off  from  them.  Char- 
coal-dust, wood-ashes,  and  washes  with  such  liquids  as  are 
destructive  to  insects  and  not  injurious  to  the  young  plants, 
water  in  which  burdock-leaves,  soot,  &c.  have  been  steeped, 
can  be  advantageously  applied.  Cucumbers  should  be  always 
plucked  before  they  turn  yellow,  as  otherwise  they  soon  ex- 
haust the  vine. 

5* 


54:  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

CHIVES  (Allium  Schcenoprasum). 

A  species  of  Onion,  which  is  grown  from  the  offshoots  it 
sends  out  from  its  roots.  They  are  planted  in  rows  about  a 
foot  apart,  and  with  an  interval  between  the  bulbs  of  three 
or  four  inches. 

HORSERADISH  (Cochlearia  Armoracia). 

Horseradish  may  be  planted,  either  in  a  bed  or  in  drills, 
from  cuttings  from  the  root  or  offshoots.  Any  tolerably 
strong,  moist  soil  will  grow  horseradish.  If  it  is  occasionally 
hoed,  it  will  be  improved. 

INDIAN  CORN  (Zea  Mays). 

Indian  Corn  is  usually  grown  in  hills  several  feet  apart. 
It  requires  good  soil  and  warm  weather.  When  about 
seventeen  inches  high,  it  should  be  hoed  deeply.  ^A  little 
ashes  scattered  on  each  hill  wilt  tend  to  keep  the  insects  off. 

The  best  sorts  for  a  kitchen  garden  are  Early  Button, 
Tuscarora,  Canadian,  and  Sweet  or  Sugar. 

LETTUCE  (Lactuca  saliva  crispa). 

Lettuce  is  often  sown  in  hot-beds.  It  requires  the  richest 
soil,  frequent  hoeings,  and  an  equal  moisture.  The  varieties 
are  infinite.  Royal  Cape,  Curled  India,  Dutch  or  Cabbage, 
Large  Green  Curled,  are  all  considered  superior. 

MELON  (Cucumis  Melo). 

Early  in  May  prepare,  in  rich,  light  soil,  beds  about  six 
feet  apart  every  way,  and  at  the  corners  of  the  bed  dig 
deeply,  and  put  in  well-rotted  manure,  and  throw  in  fine 
loamy  earth,  and  mix  it  well  with  the  manure.  Into  these 
corners  put  seven  or  eight  melon-seeds.  If  they  all  come  up, 
thin  them,  and  bring  the  earth  up  round  the  plants.  The 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  55 

ground  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clear  of  weeds.  Pluck 
off  the  first  runner  buds,  to  keep  the  vigor  of  the  plants  for 
the  fruit.  Plant  Melons  by  themselves,  if  you  wish  to  "keep 
the  virtues  of  an  individual  kind,  as  the  Melon  mixes  pollen 
with  all  the  Cucumber  family. 

The  Striped  Cucumber  Bug  (Galereuca  vittata)  and  the 
Cucumber  Flea  Beetle,  a  little  black,  skipping  insect,  are 
the  enemies  of  the  Melon.  Use  diluted  alkalies,  soot,  and 
lime.  Mr.  Downing  has  recommended  the  -  use  of  guano, 
sprinkling  the  soil  just  beneath  the  plants  as  soon  as  they 
conie  up,  the  pungent  smell  ridding  the  plant  of  its  destroy- 
ers, and  giving  it  a  fine  start  in  the  early  part  of  the  season. 
(Fruits  and  Fruit-trees  of  America.) 

The  culture  of  the  Melon  is  easy,  and  of  great  productive- 
ness, excepting  in  the  most  Northern  States ;  and  the  author 
has  eaten  delicious  melons  grown  at  Bangor,  Maine. 

Bits  of  slate  and  blackened  shingles  placed  under  each 
melon  are  said  to  improve  the  size  and  flavor  of  the  fruit. 
(Mr.  Downing.) 

The  Green-fleshed  Melon,  in  which  class  is  found  the 
Citron  and  the  Nutmeg,  contains  some  of  the-  choicest  and 
most  popular  varieties.  The  oval,  Yellow-fleshed,  are  in- 
ferior in  comparison  to  the  round,  Green-fleshed,  above 
mentioned.  Mr.  Downing  has  mentioned  the  Persian  Mel- 
on, of  a  thin  skin  and  delicious  flavor  and  honey-like  flesh, 
as  a  variety  repaying  the  additional  care  of  a  hot-bed  and 
irrigation,  or  constant  watering,  and  .careful  mixture  for  the 
making  of  soil.  (Fruits  and  Fruit-trees  of  America.) 

Melon-seed,  if  good,  will  sink  in  water  ;  if  worthless,  it  will 
float  on  the  surface. 

•WATER-MELON  (CucurUta  Citrullus). 

The  Water-Melon  is  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  Melon,  excepting  the  hills  are  placed  eight  feet  apart, 
instead  of  six. 


56  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

MUSTARD  (Sinapis),  WHITE  AND  BLACK. 

Sinapis  alba,  White  Mustard,  and  Sinapis  nigra.  Black 
Mustard,  are  both  easily  cultivated.  They  may  be  sown 
early  in  spring.  Sinapis  nigra  is  that  from  which  mustard 
is  usually  manufactured.  White  Mustard  is  used  for  stuff- 
ing mangoes,  and  both  varieties  for  salads. 

ONION  (Allium  Cepa). 

Onions  will  not  grow  on  wet  and  stubborn  soils;  they 
require  a  rich  bed,  with  strong  but  old  manure  well  mixed 
in  it  to  the  depth  of  a  spade.  The  bed  should  have  a  sunny 
exposure,  and  be  prepared  early  in  the  spring.  The  seed  is 
sown  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  with  an  interval  between 
the  drills  of  twelve  inches.  As  they  come  up,  thin  them  out, 
if  too  thick,  till  several  inches  is  left  between  the  bulbs.  In 
the  early  stages  of  their  growth,  they  may  be  hoed  ;  but 
after  they  have  assumed  the  bulb,  they  must  be  weeded  by 
hand. 

When  onions  are  fully  ripened,  the  tops  begin  to  turn  yel- 
low and  decay. 

The  seeds  of  onions  are  also  sometimes  sowed  late  in  the 
spring,  and  pulled  up  in  the  fall,  and  dried,  and  kept  over 
winter,  and  set  out  in  the  following  spring,  and  cultivated  in 
the  same  manner  as  onions  from  the  seed. 

Among  the  approved  varieties  for  the  table  are  the  White 
Portugal,  and  Silver-skin,  or  Yellow  Onion. 

PARSLEY  (Apium  Petroselinum) . 

There  are  several  varieties,  all  easily  cultivated.  The 
Common  Parsley  is  the  well-known  pot-herb,  and  the  curled 
varieties  form  the  familiar  garnish  that  gives  coolness  and 
brightness  to  many  dishes.  Sow  the  seed  in  drills  about  an 
inch  deep,  and  place  the  drills  about  a  foot  apart.  Hoe  fre- 
quently to  keep  free  from  weeds. 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  57 

The  Large-rooted  Parsley  (Apium  latifoliurri)  is  cultivat- 
ed in  the  same  manner  with  parsnips  and  carrots.  If  sown 
thick,  they  should  be  thinned  out  as  they  come  up. 

Parsley  can  be  kept  through  a  large  part  of  the  winter,  if 
taken  up  and  put  in  boxes,  and  kept  in  a  good  cellar,  and 
watered  occasionally  and  exposed  to  the  light. 

Parsley  is  biennial,  but  it  is  well  to  sow  it  annually. 
Eabbits  are  fed  upon  parsley. 

PARSNIP  (Pastinaca  saliva). 

Parsnips  thrive  best  in  a  soil  enriched  by  previous  tillage. 
No  manure  should  be  applied  at  the  time  of  sowing  seed. 
As  early  as  spring  culture  can  be  undertaken,  the  beds  should 
be  dug  deep,  the  seed  sown  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and 
an  interval  left  between  the  drills  of  about  fourteen  inches. 
Sow  the  seeds  thickly,  and  when  two  or  three  inches  high, 
if  they  seem  strong,  thin  them,  so  as  to  leave  six  or  seven 
inches  between  each  plant.  They  require  gentle  hoeing 
all  through  the  summer,  to  keep  off  the  weeds.  In  autumn 
some  can  be  taken  up  for  winter  use,  and  others  left  in  the 
ground  till  spring,  as  the  frost  sweetens  and  improves  the 
parsnip. 

PEAS  (Pisum  sativum). 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Garden  Pea.  The  early 
varieties  can  be  put  into  the  soil  as  soon  as  the  ground  can 
be  worked  ;  other  sorts  can  be  planted,  at  intervals  of  about 
a  fortnight,  till  the  end  of  May. 

All  the  varieties  may  be  planted  either  in  single  or  double 
rows  ;  and  all,  even  the  dwarf  varieties,  should  be  supported 
when  two  or  three  inches  high,  by  fan-shaped  sticks  for  the 
tendrils  to  run  upon.  The  drills  have  an  interval  between 
them,  which  is  determined  by  the  kind  of  Pea  planted  ;  the 
space  is  generally  from  four  to  six  feet  apart. 


58  ART    OP    GARDENING. 

The  finest  Marrowfat  Peas  grow  very  high,  and  require 
long  sticks.  To  save  sticks,  and  to  increase  the  yield,  some 
gardeners  make  two  drills  about  three  inches  deep,  and  nine 
inches  apart,  and  drop  the  seed  into  both  drills  rather  thick. 
As  the  plants  reach  two  or  three  inches  in  height,  they 
are  hoed,  and  the  earth  brought  up  round  the  stems,  and 
when  six  or  seven  inches  high  they  should  be  hoed  again, 
and  a  line  of  sticks  placed  between  the  rows,  of  a  height 
suitable  to  the  variety  of  Pea.  A  few  smaller  sticks  may 
be  put  on  the  outside  of  the  rows,  as  steps  to  lead  to  the  main 
centre  sticks  or  poles.  It  is  poor  economy  to  use  rotten  and 
brittle  sticks.  Rows  are  in  such  instances  blown  clown  by 
the  wind,  or  by  the  first  gathering  of  the  vegetable.  Some 
people  dip  the  ends  of  their  sticks  in  tar  or  resinous  prepa- 
ration to  keep  them  some  seasons. 

Peas  will  grow  either  on  light  or  heavy  soils,  but  thrive 
best  on  light  ones.  If  the  ground  is  too  rich,  they  run  to 
vine,  but  yield  poorly. 

PEPPER  (Capsicum). 

Of  this  family  there  are  several  varieties.  They  belong 
to  the  East  and  West  Indies,  but  are  easily  grown  in  all  the 
States  with  a  little  care.  They  are  often  brought  forward 
in  the  hot-bed,  and  on  reaching  the  height  of  two  or  three 
inches  are  transplanted  into  good  rich  beds,  with  a  sunny 
exposure,  allowing  sufficient  space  between  each  for  a  hand- 
hoe  to  be  worked,  as  they  require  to  be  kept  free  from 
weeds. 

Some  of  the  pods  of  the  different  varieties  are  red,  and 
others  yellow,  on  reaching  maturity.  They  are  gathered 
green  for  pickling. 

The  Capsicum  grossum,  or  Bell-shaped,  is  in  warm  cli- 
mates perennial.  It  has  a  thick  skin,  and  is  pulpy  and 
delicate  in  texture. 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  59 

When  the  pods  are  ripe  they  are  cut,  and  hung  in  the 
sun  in  a  dry  atmosphere.  The  seed  is  preserved  in  the  pod 
if  it  is  effectually  dried.  When  powdered  it  is  used  for  pep- 
per-tea, for  the  relief  of  violent  colds  and  sore  throats. 

The  variety  Sweet  Spanish  is  used  as  a  salad. 

POTATO  (Solatium  tuberosum). 

The  Potato  is  a  native  of  America.  Of  the  genus  Sola- 
rium, it  belongs  to  the  natural  order  Solanacece,  or  the  Night- 
shade tribe.  Some  of  this  family,  it  is  well  known,  are  poi- 
sonous, as  the  Deadly  Nightshade ;  others  have  stimulating 
and  narcotic  properties,  and  others  afford  us  food.  The 
potato  is  said  to  eject  some  poisonous  properties,  on  being 
subjected  to  heat  in  the  process  of  cooking,  and,  for  this 
reason,  the  practice  of  changing  the  water  they  are  boiled  in 
is  a  commendable  one. 

Potatoes  are  mostly  planted  in  drills,  either  whole  or  cut 
into  pieces,  each  piece  having  an  eye.  They  are  frequently 
cut  a  week  before  they  are  planted,  and  spread  on  a  dry 
barn-floor  to  dry.  They  are  planted  five  or  six  inches  deep, 
and  seven  or  eight  inches  from  each  other,  in  drills  about 
thirty  inches  apart.  They  are  hoed  as  soon  as  they  are  up, 
and  from  time  to  time  the  earth  is  thrown  up  around  the 
plants. 

Potatoes  require  a  great  deal  of  manure.  Common  stable 
manure,  bone-dust,  and  alkalies  are  all  favorable,  but  lime 
cannot  be  used  with  advantage. 

PUMPKIN  (CucurUta  Pepo). 

Pumpkin  beds  are  prepared  in  a  similar  manner  to 
melon  and  cucumber  beds,  but  the  soil  need  not  be  so  highly 
prepared. 

RADISH  (Raphanus  sativd). 

Radishes  do  not  love  a  wet,  stubborn  soil,  and  should 


60  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

have  beds  carefully  prepared  early  in  the  spring,  and  be 
sown  in  a  light  loam  with  a  sunny  exposure.  If  the  weather 
is  dry,  they  require  watering,  to  swell  the  roots.  They 
should  grow  rapidly,  or  they  are  tough  and  stringy  or  corky. 
Stir  in  strong  manure  into  the  beds,  and  keep  wood-ashes, 
tobacco-dust,  and  soot  on  the  surface  of  the  bed,  to  drive  off 
insects.  The  seed  is  put  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep  and 
a  foot  apart. 

RHUBARB  (Rheum). 

This  genus  of  plants  contains  several  varieties.  Rhapon- 
ticum,  or  Common  Rhubarb,  is  the  kind  commonly  cultivated 
for  its  stalks.  Rheum  undulatum  is  also  cultivated  in  kitchen 
gardens. 

Palmatum,  or  Officinal  Rhubarb,  is  the  variety  whose 
root  is  so  valuable  for  medicine.  It  is  cultivated  largely  in 
Turkey,  and  is  a  native  of  China  and  the  East  Indies.  This 
variety  has  never  been  much  cultivated  in  America. 

The  Common  Rhubarb  requires  a  light,  rich  soil,  and  to 
be  dug  to  the  depth  of  two  spades.  It  is  propagated  by  the 
seed  or  by  offshoots.  In  the  spring  the  plants  are  brought 
forward  by  having  stable  manure  put  around  them,  and 
being  covered  by  barrels  or  large  tubs.  It  is  much  im- 
proved by  cultivation. 

S AL  s  IF Y  (  Tragopogon  porrifolius) . 

This  plant,  known  also  as  the  Vegetable  Oyster,  is  much 
cultivated  in  Virginia,  and  cooked  there  in  a  variety  of  ways. 

The  seed  .should  be  sown  early  in  spring,  in  good  gar- 
den earth,  in  drills  an  inch  deep  and  about  a  foot  apart. 
The  seeds  ripen  unequally,  and  therefore  it  is  safer  to  sow 
the  seed  rather  generously.  They  may  be  thinned  when 
two  or  three  inches  high,  so  that  a  small  hoe  can  be  passed 
between  them,  to  keep  the  earth  loose  and  light. 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  61 

SPINACH  (Spinacia  oleracea). 

This  is  a  valuable  vegetable  for  the  kitchen  garden,  being 
hardy  in  its  habits  and  of  a  wholesome  nature.  It  will  only 
flourish  in  rich  soil,  and  if  the  ground  is  poor,  strong  manure 
must  be  liberally  thrown  into  the  bed.  It  can  be  cultivated 
in  drills  ;  as  soon  as  it  is  a  few  inches  high,  it  must  be 
carefully  hoed,  and  the  practice  continued  t  all  through  its 
growth. 

Spinach  is  regarded  mostly  as  a  spring  vegetable,  but  it  is 
sometimes  put  into  beds,  in  autumn,  that  have  become  empty 
by  the  taking  up  of  vegetables. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  spinach,  the  Savoy  Spinach, 
Broad-leaved  Spinach,  Holland,  &c.  A  variety  called  New 
Zealand  Spinach,  or  Tetragona  expansa,  lasts  into  autumn. 
It  grows,  if  the  season  is  favorable,-  luxuriantly ;  and  is 
planted  in  hills  some  feet  apart,  with  but  few  seeds  to  a  hill. 

SQUASH  (Gucurbita  Melopepo). 

Beds  are  prepared  for  the  Squash  in  the  same  manner  as 
for  melons  and  cucumbers.  Those  which  are  great  runners 
have  an  interval  between  them  of  six  or  nine  feet,  while  the 
bush  varieties  are  planted  three  or  four  feet  apart. 

Early  Summer  Squashes  are  gathered  while  the  outside 
is  sensitive  to  the  pressure  of  the  finger-nail. 

Winter  Squashes  are  kept  out  as  long  as  possible,  in  order 
to  be  hardier  for  winter  keeping.  On  cold  nights  they  are 
covered  with  matting  or  old  carpet,  to  protect  them  from  the 
frost.  They  should  be  thoroughly  dried  by  the  sun  before 
they  are  put  up  for  winter.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
bruise  them ;  and  they  should  be  kept  on  a  dry  floor  or 
shelf,  in  a  room  at  an  equal  temperature,  but  never  at  the 
freezing  point. 

Early  Bush,  Early  Crook-neck,  &c.  are  summer  varieties. 
Canada  Crook-neck,  Acorn  Squash,  are  both  nice  varieties 
6 


62  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

for  winter.  There  are  other  varieties  of  great  merit.  Plant 
different  varieties  by  themselves ;  sown  near  cucumbers, 
melons,  or  other  squashes,  the  mixture  of  the  pollen  deterio- 
rates the  seed  for  the  following  season. 

TOMATO  (Solanum  Lycopersicum). 

There  are  two  species  of  the  Tomato,  the  Red  Tomato 
and  the  Yellow.  In  each  of  these  are  found  sub-varieties, 
with  differences  of  size  and  shape. 

The  large  Red  Squash-shaped  is  the  most  commonly 
cultivated  for  the  table  and  for  catchups.  The  small  Red 
Cherry-shaped  is  used  for  pickling. 

The  yellow  varieties  differ  principally  in  shape.  The 
small  Cherry  Yellow  Tomato  is  a  very  pretty  variety,  and 
makes  a  good  common  preserve. 

Nothing  is  of  easier  culture  in  a  warm  climate  than  the 
Tomato.  In  Virginia  I  have  known  a  single  plant  to  bear 
over  a  bushel  of  rich,  mellow  fruit. 

In  Massachusetts  and  in  Maine  greater  care  is  requisite  to 
perfect  the  fruit.  Plants  are  sometimes  brought  forward  in 
a  hot-bed,  and  often  in  a  cold  bed  or  open  box  in  the  house  ; 
the  boxes  being  deep  and  well  filled  with  rich  earth,  placed 
in  a  sunny  exposure,  and  kept  of  an  equal  moisture.  The 
seed  must  be  put  in  sparsely,  and  not  deeper  than  half  an 
inch.  In  transplanting,  deep  holes  are  dug,  and  strong 
stable-manure  placed  in  these  holes  with  finely  pulverized 
earth,  and  the  plants  put  in  carefully,  taking  up  as  much 
earth  with  them  as  possible.  Each  hill  should  be  three  or 
four  feet  apart.  They  must  be  protected  from  the  hot  sun 
in  their  early  stages,  by  shingles  forced  into  the  ground  so 
as  to  shade  them.  They  should  be  watered  morning  and 
night  till  they  set,  and  occasionally  all  through  the  season, 
if  the  weather  be  dry. 

As  they  grow,  they  need  to  be  trimmed,  in  order  that  the 


ART    OF    GARDENING.  63 

fruit  may  be  exposed  to  the  sun.  They  can  be  trained  either 
horizontally  or  to  a  pole.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
fruit  does  not  rot  on  the  ground.  Tomatoes  are  great  ex- 
hausters of  the  soil,  and  their  beds  should  be  changed  from 
year  to  year. 

TURNIP  (Brassica  Eapd). 

Turnips  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring  for  summer 
use,  and  for  winter  vegetables  a  bed  should  be  sown  later. 
If  the  first  crop  does  not  come  to  maturity  early  in  summer, 
they  are  stringy  and  worm-eaten. 

Turnips  are  best  grown  upon  land  which  has  been  pre- 
viously manured.  A  light  soil  is  desirable.  Insects  must 
be  fought  off  constantly,  by  lime,  ashes,  soot,  and  pungent 
powders  put  on  the  surface  of  the  bed.  Sometimes  whole 
beds  of  turnips  are  cut  off  by  insects. 

For  garden  culture,  turnip-seed  is  sown  in  drills  about  a 
foot  apart,  and  hoed  between  the  rows  as  the  plants  grow. 

The  Swedish,  or  Ruta-Baga,  which  grows  to  an  enormous 
size,  is  very  good  for  cows  mixed  with  other  food. 

The  table  varieties  are  various.  The  small  turnips  are 
sweeter  than  the  larger  kinds,  which  are  more  suitable  for 
extensive  agricultural  purposes. 

Early  White  Dutch,  Swan's  Egg,  Long  Yellow  French, 
and  many  other  varieties  of  white  and  purple  rooted  turnip, 
are  excellent  for  the  table. 

Garden-seed  should  seldom  be  put  lower  down  than  an 
inch,  unless  where  seed  is  necessarily  sown  late,  when  it 
may  be  covered  deeper,  to  protect  the  seed  from  being 
scorched  by  the  sun. 

Though  it  has  never  been  proved  that  plants  throw  out 
"  matters  of  an  excrementitious  nature  injurious  to  the  plant 
from  which  they  have  been  separated,"  yet  it  is  known  that 


64  ART    OF    GARDENING. 

gome  plants  exhaust  the  fertility  of  land  in  a  larger  degree 
than  others,  —  that  certain  kinds  of  food  are  taken  by  some 
plants  and  rejected  by  others ;  and  for  such  reasons  a  rota- 
tion of  crops  has  always  been  an  invariable  maxim  with  the 
farmer,  and  the  small  gardener  finds  it  equally  to  his  benefit 
to  change  the  situation  of  his  beds. 

Spinach,  always  requiring  a  rich  soil,  leaves  the  ground 
in  a  good  state  for  such  vegetables  as  salsify,  carrots,  beets, 
radishes,  potatoes,  &c. 

Celery  beds  are  excellent  for  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  and 
all  the  Brassica  tribe. 

Potatoes  leave  the  ground  in  a  good  state  for  artichokes, 
for  an  asparagus  bed,  for  lettuce  and  onion,  situation  and 
subsoil  being  favorable. 

Such  plants  as  have  luxuriant  spreading  heads  are  to  be 
followed  by  those  which  have  but  narrow  leaves  and  sparse 
outward  growth. 

Vegetables  which  require  frequent  deep  hoeing  prepare 
the  ground  for  plants  which  must  remain  stationary,  such 
as  those  herbs  whose  running  roots  would  be  bruised  by  the 
hoe. 

Transplanting  is  best  done  when  the  ground  is  wet  and 
the  weather  cloudy.  If  it  is  necessary  to  transplant  when  it 
is  dry,  the  ground  should  be  dug  deeply,  and  the  plants  left 
in  rich  mud  in  the  cellar  till  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  then 
set  out  in  a  rich  compost,  such  as  will  retain  moisture,  and 
be  watered  frequently  till  they  have  set  or  taken  root. 

Wood-ashes  form  a  very  valuable  fertilizer  to  soils  lack- 
ing phosphates.  Coal-ashes  are  often  used  to  lighten  stiff  and 
stubborn  soils.  Ashes  from  soap-boilers  have  been  by  many 
cultivators  much  esteemed.  As  lime  and  chalk  form  the 
principal  portions  of  the  ashes  of  soap-boilers,  where  a  soil 
is  found  deficient  in  these  substances,  they  may  generally 
be  applied  with  benefit.  Ashes,  as  a  manure,  act  power- 


ASPARAGUS.  65 

fully  and  quickly,  but  add  little  permanent  value  to  the 
soil. 

ASPARAGUS  (Asparagus  afficinalis).  This  desirable 
and  healthy  spring  vegetable  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the 
seed  in  the  fall  or  early  spring.  The  seed  should  be  fresh 
and  ripe,  and  put  into  rich  soil,  and  covered  about  half  an 
inch  deep.  Hoe  carefully  when  the  plants  are  up,  and 
keep  them  free  from  weeds.  After  a  careful  cultivation, 
some  gardeners  remove  the  plants  when  a  year  old  from  the 
nursery  bed ;  oftener,  they  are  not  removed  till  two  years 
old.  The  bed  they  are  to  be  finally  put  into  should  be 
trenched  a  foot  deep,  and  well-rotted  manure  be  worked  into 
each  trench  several  inches  below  the  surface.  Place  the 
plants  upright  along  the  trench,  and  fill  in  with  earth  as  you 
pass  along,  filling  in  carefully  afterwards,  drawing  the  earth 
round  each  plant  with  a  rake  or  hoe.  Throw  on  the  surface 
some  well-rotted  manure.  Sea-weed,  if  within  reach,  is  an 
excellent  manure  for  asparagus  beds,  which  require  an 
annual  dressing.  Old  pickle  brine  may  be  put  on  in  the 
fall.  The  bed  should  be  placed  in  a  sunny  exposure. 

Asparagus  should  be  carefully  cut,  so  as  not  to  wound  the 
coming  buds  ;  a  sharp  knife  should  be  used,  and  the  shoots 
cut  a  little  below  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Where  you  have  a  bed,  cut  asparagus  just  before  you  put 
it  into  the  pot.  Tie  it  in  small  bundles.  Throw  a  little  salt 
into  boiling  water ;  no  more  water  should  be  used  than  just 
enough  to  cover  the  vegetable.  If  it  boils  too  long,  it  will 
lose  color  and  flavor ;  twenty  minutes  will  generally  find  it 
tender.  Toast  some  slices  of  bread  quite  dry,  pour  some  of 
the  water  the  asparagus  was  boiled  in  over  it,  and  put  a 
piece  of  butter  on  each  piece  of  bread ;  lay  the  asparagus 
on  the  toast,  and  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  asparagus. 
You  may  serve  it  with  melted  butter. 
6* 


66  BAKED    MEATS. 

ATTICS.  The  upper  rooms  of  a  house  should  be  kept 
religiously  clean.  The  cook  generally  sleeps  there.  Tur- 
pentine round  the  corners  of  attic  rooms  is  often  sufficient  to 
keep  ants  off.  Ants  also  dislike  all  alkalies.  Never  have 
paper  on  the  walls  of  attic  rooms. 

It  is  customary  to  reserve,  in  a  large  house,  one  room  in 
the  attic  for  such  groceries  and  household  matters  as  are 
improved  by  an  occasional  change  into  a  dry  atmosphere. 
Cranberries  are  sometimes  spread  on  a  coarse  sheet  in  such 
a  room.  Loaf-sugar  hung  here  keeps  dry  and  hard.  Cer- 
tain wines  are  improved  by  an  occasional  visit  here.  Flower- 
seeds  are  spread  in  a  sunny  exposure  to  ripen  in  this  room. 

Curtains  should  be  so  placed  that  they  may  be  easily 
taken  down,  else  they  will  be  a  receptacle  for  insects.  The 
floor  should  be  provided  with  small  domestic  mats,  never 
with  heavy  carpets.  The  floors  can  be  easily  washed  up 
once  a  week,  if  painted  yellow  or  lead-color.  Let  the  bed- 
steads be  often  examined,  and  quicksilver  beaten  with  the 
white  of  an  egg  placed  around  suspicious  crevices.  Put  it 
on  with  a  feather.  Iron  bedsteads  are  easily  kept  clean, 
as,  after  removing  the  clothes,  a  little  camphene  poured  on 
to  the  bedstead,  and  ignited,  effects  a  thorough  purification. 

BAKED  MEATS.  Meats  dressed  in  the  oven.  (  Wor- 
cester.) 

Most  good  cooks  object  to  the  oven  for  the  generality  of 
meats ;  for  though  they  lose  less  in  actual  weight  by  baking 
than  by  any  other  process,  they  are  thought  not  to  improve 
in  piquancy  and  flavor.  Some  meats,  all  agree,  make  good 
family  dishes  when  put  into  the  oven  in  deep  baking  dishes. 
Veal,  if  not  too  rich,  can  be  baked  with  less  injury  than  most 
meats.  A  leg  of  mutton  stuffed  with  herb  stuffing,  with 
slices  of  parboiled  potatoes,  artichokes,  and  bits  of  onion 
dropped  into  the  pan,  makes  a  good  dish.  Tomatoes  cut  up 


BACON.  67 

and  baked  with  meats  lend  them  flavor,  and  mitigate  their 
grossness.  Vegetables  should  be  sliced,  and  the  solid  roots 
parboiled  and  put  in  when  the  meat  is  half  done. 

Meats  baked  in  the  oven  of  a  modern  range,  where  the 
door  is  occasionally  opened  and  the  meat  basted,  bear  a 
nearer  resemblance  to  roasts  than  meats  prepared  in  a  com- 
mon stove. 

Tongues  and  hams  soaked  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  the 
water  changed  in  the  evening,  are  frequently  taken  out,  and, 
after  being  wiped,  put  into  a  coarse  paste,  and  set  into  the 
oven,  and  baked  till  tender.  The  paste  is  taken  off  before 
they  are  sent  to  the  table. 

BACON.  Pork  that  is  young,  not  over  ten  or  twelve 
months,  is  best  for  family  bacon.  It  should  be  well  bled, 
and  carefully  trimmed. 

For  fifty  pounds  of  pork,  I  have  frequently  used  the  fol- 
lowing receipt :  —  Three  and  a  half  pints  of  salt,  six  ounces 
of  saltpetre,  and  three  pounds  of  moist  sugar ;  rubbing  in  the 
saltpetre,  and,  mixing  the  salt  and  sugar  together,  rubbing  it 
also  in  thoroughly.  Allow  it  to  remain  in  a  deep  wooden 
trough  or  tub  for  six  weeks,  turning  it  every  day,  and  bast- 
ing it  with  the  liquor  formed  by  the  sugar,  salt,  and  salt- 
petre. Take  it  out,  dry  it,  and  smoke  it  for  three  weeks. 

Bay  or  Lisbon  salt,  or  salt  formed  by  the  gradual  action 
of  the  winds  and  sun,  is  thought  to  impart  a  milder  flavor  to 
meat  than  manufactured  salt. 

If  you  cure  large  quantities  of  pork,  and  your  brine  should 
become  offensive  with  blood  and  slime,  do  not  attempt  to  boil 
it  over  and  skim  and  return  it  when  cold,  as  is  sometimes 
done  ;  such  pickle,  diluted  with  water,  can  be  used  on  a  gar- 
den. Make  a  fresh  brine,  and,  after  having  scalded  your 
tub  with  a  strong  lye  made  of  wood-ashes,  and  then  with 
hot  water,  wipe  your  bacon  dry,  removing  all  slime,  and 


68  BALM. 

cover  with  your  fresh  pickle,  poured  on  cold.  Keep  your 
bacon,  while  curing,  under  the  brine  by  large  weights  or 
heavy  stones. 

Saltpetre  dries  meat,  and  is  not  used  in  such  large  quan- 
tities as  formerly.  I  have  known  many  good  housewives 
have  their  pork  rubbed  with  half  the  salt  intended  to  be 
used,  and  covered  for  a  few  days,  and  save  the  remainder  of 
the  salt  to  be  rubbed  in  with  the  sugar  and  saltpetre.  Mo- 
lasses is  sometimes  used  for  bacon  instead  of  sugar. 

Hams  are  sometimes  rubbed  with  salt  for  a  day  or  two, 
and  put  into  a  brine  strongly  impregnated  with  wine  and 
sweet  herbs.  This  does  very  well  for  small  hams,  that  are 
intended  for  immediate  family  consumption. 

Hams  that  are  to  be  kept  for  some  months,  after  being 
dried  and  smoked,  should  be  put  into  a  coarse  canvas  bag 
and  whitewashed,  and  hung  in  some  cool  and  dry  place. 

Bacon  should  be  made  only  in  the  cool  months. 

If  there  is  no  place  where  you  can  send  your  bacon  to  be 
smoked,  you  can  smoke  it  (but  of  course  imperfectly)  by 
taking  out  the  end  of  an  old  cask,  and  filling  the  cask  half 
full  of  green  sawdust,  and  branches  of  some  odoriferous 
trees,  and  bits  of  oak  bark,  and  putting  in  some  hot  ashes 
and  bits  of  heated  iron,  and  raising  one  part  of  the  cask  by 
placing  a  small  stone  under  it,  so  as  to  make  a  draft  of  air. 
Put  pieces  of  iron  across,  and  hang  the  bacon  over  on  pot- 
hooks or  pieces  of  coarse  rope.  Cover  it.  Be  careful  that 
it  merely  smoulders  and  smokes,  and  does  not  ignite. 

The  sugar-cured  bacon  of  Virginia,  and  especially  the 
hams,  are  justly  entitled  to  their  reputation.  Their  hogs 
mostly  run  about,  and  feed  on  acorns. 

BALM  (Melissa  officinalis).  This  herb  mixed  with 
honey  and  vinegar,  steeped  and  strained,  is  sometimes  used 
as  a  gargle  for  a  sore  and  inflamed  throat.  It  does  not  re- 


BARBERRY.  69 

tain  its  strength  when  dried,  and  is  mostly  used  green.     See 
Aromatic  Herbs. 

BALM  OF  GILEAD.  The  buds  of  the  Balsam  or 
Balm  of  Gilead  tree,  gathered  in  spring  and  put  into  bottles 
with  pure  Jamaica  spirits,  are  considered  healing  for  bruises 
and  cuts ;  the  same  decoction,  taken  by  the  teaspoonful 
(put  into  a  glass  of  water)  before  a  meal,  once  a  day,  is  said 
to  afford  relief  when  the  system  has  become  enervated  by 
local  difficulties. 

BANANA.  The  fruit  of  the  West  India  Banana,  if  kept 
on  ice,  and  brought  to  the  table,  after  being  washed  in  cold 
water,  on  grape-leaves,  or  a  crimped  napkin  of  undisputed 
whiteness  laid  upon  a  glass  dish,  makes  an  occasional  vari- 
ety for  dessert.  Some  people  eat  with  it  salt  and  pepper, 
others  prefer  wine  and  sugar. 

BANDBOX.  This  indispensable  and  much  abused  ar- 
ticle has  improved  in  modern  times.  It  now  appears  in 
wood,  fitted  up  inside  with  a  pasteboard  form,  which  is  se- 
cured by  a  slide  for  the  hat  or  bonnet  to  rest  upon.  None 
others  should  be  generally  patronized. 

BANTAM.     See  Fowls. 

BARBERRY,  OR  BERBERRY.  The  Barberry  grows 
wild  in  America  and  Europe.  It  is  easily  cultivated. 
Trained  to  the  single  stem,  the  fruit  grows  larger,  as  the 
suckers  are  apt  to  render  the  fruit  small,  and  the  bush  finally 
barren.  It  is  grown  from  seed,  layers,  or  suckers.  There 
are  several  varieties.  The  Common  Red  grows  large  by  cul- 
tivation in  a  rich  soil.  There  are  varieties  of  the  common 
Barberry  in  Europe  which  bear  pale  yellow,  white,  and  pur- 


70  BARBERRY. 

pie  fruit,  and  which  have  the  same  properties  as  the  com- 
mon Barberry,  differing  only  in  color.  There  is  a  variety 
from  Austria,  called  Sweet,  but  which  is  almost  as  acid  as 
our  common  Barberry.  The  Common  Red  has  a  variety 
which  is  seedless,  and  consequently  desirable  for  preserves 
and  jellies,  but  it  does  not  appear  to  be  a  permanent  variety, 
as  the  plants  frequently  bear  fruit  with  seeds,  and  the  suck- 
ers always;  and  it  is  said,  that,  in  order  to  guard  against 
this  degeneration,  the  sort  should  be  propagated  by  layers 
or  cuttings. 

The  Black  Sweet  Magellan  Barberry  is  an  evergreen 
from  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  South  America.  It  is  rare,  and 
has  borne  no  fruit  in  this  country  as  yet ;  but  it  is  thought 
it  will  prove  hardy.  It  has  yielded  fruit  in  Edinburgh,  said 
to  be  handsome  and  excellent. 

The  Nepal  is  a  variety  from  Nepal,  India,  where  it  bears 
a  purple  fruit,  which  is  there  dried  in  the  sun,  like  raisins, 
and  used  like  them  at  the  dessert 

The  Mahonias,  or  Holly-leaved  Berberries  from  Oregon, 
are  very  handsome  ornamental  shrubs,  with  fine  green 
prickly  leaves,  and  yellow  flowers,  but  the  fruit  is  of  no 
value. 

I  am  indebted  for  most  of  the  above  information  to  Mr. 
Downing's  pleasing  and  valuable  work,  Fruit  and  Fruit- 
trees  of  America. 

There  is  a  popular  notion  that  the  vicinity  of  Barberry 
bushes  is  unfavorable  to  the  growth  of  grain,  but  it  is  unsup- 
ported by  the  weight  of  good  evidence. 

The  tannin  principle  is  in  the  bark  of  the  Barberry,  and 
it  dyes,  combined  with  alum,  a  bright  yellow. 

BARBERRY  JAM. 

Pluck  from  the  stem  barberries  that  are  quite  ripe,  mash 
them,  and  mix  with  them  not  quite  a  pound  of  good,  clean 


BARK,    PERUVIAN.  71 

brown  sugar.  Put  the  mixture  into  the  preserving-kettle, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
stirring  and  skimming  it  frequently  ;  then  let  it  boil  rapidly 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  taking  care,  by  frequent  stirrings, 
that  it  does  not  adhere  to  the  kettle.  Put  it  warm  into  a 
glass  or  china  jar,  and  cover  closely. 

Barberry  Jelly  should  be  made  of  the  stoneless  variety,  if 
it  can  be  procured  ;  make  it  in  the  same  manner  as  you  pre- 
pare currant  jelly. 

BARBERRY  PRESERVE. 

Barberries  are  easily  preserved  by  choosing  some  of  the 
fairest  fruit,  tying  it  in  clusters  to  sticks,  and  boiling  it  in  sirup. 
I  once  undertook  to  extract  the  stones  from  Barberries  for  a 
preserve.  It  was  very  delicious,  and  happily  did  good  ser- 
vice ;  but  as  a  general  practice,  it  could  only  be  recommended 
to  Turkish  women,  who  are  said  to  employ  their  listless  days 
in  extracting  seed  from  small  fruits  to  be  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  their  sugar  pastes.  Sweet  apples  are  sometimes  pre- 
served with  barberries,  in  molasses  or  sirup.  It  makes  a 
homely  preserve  much  relished  by  children. 

Hot  water  poured  on  preserved  barberries,  and  allowed 
to  cool,  makes  a  grateful  beverage  for  invalids. 

See  under  Pickles,  for  the  manner  of  pickling  barberries. 

BARK,  PERUVIAN,  JESUIT'S  BARK,  CINCHONA,  OR 
QUINQUINA.  This  bark  was  tested  by  the  Jesuits  while 
exploring  South  America.  It  is  a  valuable  tonic,  and  a  few 
doses  administered  in  small  quantities  in  the  powdered  state 
sometimes  have  a  happy  effect  in  cases  of  intermittent  fever 
or  ague.  It  is  a  useful  dentifrice,  if  moderately  used,  giving 
hardness  and  a  healthy  tone  to  the  gums,  and  imparting  sweet- 
ness to  the  breath. 

A  tincture  of  this  bark  is  made  by  pouring  on  four  ounces 


72  BARLEY. 

of  the  bark  two  pints  of  purest  alcohol ;  let  it  stand  ten  days, 
when  it  is  to  be  carefully  strained  and  bottled.  It  is  an 
excellent  and  safe  medicine  taken  in  such  proportions  as 
circumstances  authorize ;  as  a  tonic  and  stomachic  medicine, 
a  spoonful  some  hours  before  each  meal  is  generally  a  good 
rule. 

A  decoction  is  also  made  with  red  wine,  which  is  some- 
times given  to  children  of  weakly,  rickety  habits  of  constitu- 
tion. It  is  given  in  the  forenoon  and  after  dinner. 

Slight  excoriations  of  the  skin,  induced  by  chafes,  are  fre- 
quently relieved  by  this  pulverized  bark. 

BARLEY  (Lat.  Hordeum)  is  an  annual  plant,  but  is 
often  sown  in  autumn,  when  it  ripens  later,  and  is  called 
Winter  Barley. 

Two-Rowed  Barley  (Hordeum  distichum),  or  Common 
Barley,  is  the  species  generally  cultivated  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  considered  the  most  valuable,  on  account  of  its 
full  berry  and  its  general  freedom  from  smut ;  it  has  numer- 
ous minor  varieties,  distinguished  for  some  differences  in  the 
quality  of  the  grain,  for  early  or  late  ripening,  or  for  more  or 
less  productiveness,  features  brought  out  perhaps  by  differ- 
ences in  culture  and  climate.  This  grain,  whose  native  home 
is  traced  from  Egypt  and  Syria,  as  far  back  as  three  thou- 
sand years  since,  matures  in  favorable  seasons  on  the  Eastern 
Continent  as  far  north  as  seventy  degrees.  In  warm  lati- 
tudes two  crops  are  produced  in  a  year. 

In  the  United  States,  the  yield  of  Barley  varies  from  thirty 
to  fifty  or  more  bushels  per  acre,  weighing  from  forty-five  to 
fifty-five  pounds  per  bushel. 

Both  in  the  United  States  and  in  Great  Britain,  this  grain 
is  grown  chiefly  for  malt,  and  for  the  manufacture  of  spirit- 
uous liquors.  In  France  it  is  used  for  corn-bread,  while  in 
some  warm  climates  it  is  given  to  horses,  and  is  said  to  be 
as  good  for  this  purpose  as  oats. 


BATHS.  73 

Pot  Barley,  Pearl  Barley,  and  French  Barley  are  only- 
barley  freed  from  the  husk  by  the  mill,  the  distinction  be- 
tween them  being  the  round,  shot  form  of  the  Pearl  Barley, 
which  is  caused  by  the  sides  of  the  grain  being  clipped  off  at 
the  mill,  leaving  only  the  centre  or  heart. 

We  seldom  export  barley  from  this  country,  being  con- 
sumers rather  than  producers  of  the  grain.  The  virtues  of 
barley  for  medicinal  purposes  are  of  great  antiquity.  Hip- 
pocrates wrote  a  whole  book  on  the  merits  of  gruel  made 
of  barley.  Barley  Water  is  a  pleasant  liquid  to  administer 
medicine  in.  (Farmer's  Encyclopaedia.  Abstract  of  the  Sev- 
enth Census.) 

BARLEY  WATER.  Take  four  large  table-spoonfuls 
of  well-picked  and  washed  Pearl  Barley,  and  put  it  into  a 
porcelain-lined  kettle,  containing  two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Let  it  boil  slowly  till  reduced  to  nearly  one  half  the  liquid. 
Strain  it  and  season  it  with  salt,  and,  if  the  patient's  condition 
will  admit  of  it,  flavor  it  with  white  sugar  and  fresh  lemon- 
juice.  It  is  a  grateful  drink  to  invalids.  See  Soups. 

BASTING.  A  dripping.  Different  liquids  and  sub- 
stances that  are  used  as  corroboratives  in  roasting  meats. 

BATHS.  All  nations,  in  every  stage  of  society,  have 
indulged  in  the  bath,  from  the  savage  tribes  of  North  Amer- 
ica to  the  magnificent  Roman  of  eighteen  centuries  back; 
nay,  the  savages  imitated  the  refinements  of  bathing  by  throw- 
ing into  the  waters  of  caverns  heated  stones,  to  produce  the 
vapor  bath. 

No  positive  rules  can  be  laid  down  with  regard  to  the 
suitability  of  cold  baths  as  a  universal  axiom.     Feeble  per- 
sons cannot  always  venture  upon  them,  but  should  rather  in- 
dulge in  the  tepid  bath,  which  ranges  from  60°  to  97°. 
7 


74  BEANS. 

The  foot-bath  is  often  rendered  stimulant,  in  cases  of  sick- 
ness from  colds,  by  the  addition  of  a  little  mustard,  or  a  little 
wood-ashes  and  salt. 

Sea-bathing,  at  a  distance  from  the  sea-shore,  may  be  arti- 
ficially produced  by  dissolving  bay-salt  in  fresh  water.  By 
this  means  the  properties  of  salt  water  will  be  acquired,  with 
the  exception  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  which,  however,  is 
found  in  salt  water  only  in  small  proportions.  Dissolve  one 
pound  of  bay-salt  to  each  gallon  of  fresh  water. 

Cold  baths,  where  they  can  be  safely  taken  either  directly 
or  by  the  compromise  of  the  sponge,  tend  to  invite  a  most 
wholesome  state  of  health  and  spirits,  and  to  lessen  the 
liability  of  colds.  Baths,  especially  cold  baths,  should  never 
be  taken  directly  after  meals. 

BATTER.     See  Fritters  and  Paddings. 

BAY-SALT.  Salt  made  of  sea-water  by  the  action  of 
the  winds  and  sun,  and  lodged  in  bays  and  similar  gulfs. 
Bay-salt  is  in  large  cubes,  moderately  white.  St.  Ubes  salt 
is  considered  very  pure.  (Farmer's  Encyclopedia.) 

BEANS.  The  Broad  Beans  (English  Dwarfs),  of  which 
the  Magazan  is  a  nice  variety,  should  be  gathered  fully 
grown,  but  young.  Shell  them  just  before  you  cook  them. 
Boil  them  rapidly  in  salted  water  till  the  skin  will  yield 
to  gentle  pressure.  A  bit  of  ham  is  sometimes  boiled  with 
them,  but  it  injures  the  purity  of  their  color.  Make  a 
gravy  of  melted  butter  and  pour  over  them.  Parsley  may 
be  boiled,  chopped,  and  put  into  the  butter.  Do  not  allow 
them  to  swim  in  butter,  —  it  looks  gross,  —  the  gravy  being 
merely  for  seasoning.  Many  good  cooks  prefer  bits  of  fresh 
butter  placed  in  the  dish. 


BEANS.  75 

LIMA  BEANS. 

Shell  them  while  fresh,  and  boil  them  till  tender  in  a  full 
kettle  of  water  with  a  little  salt.  Drain  them,  and  put  bits 
of  butter  over  them. 

These  beans  are  often  preserved  in  Virginia  through  the 
winter,  by  packing  them  when  ripe  (towards  the  last  of  fall 
if  convenient)  into  clean  jars  or  kegs.  Take  a  dry  day  foi 
the  packing.  Put  a  layer  of  beans  in  the  pod  into  the  keg  01 
jar,  and  sprinkle  salt  over  them,  repeating  the  process  till  the 
vessel  or  tub  is  filled.  When  to  be  cooked,  the  beans  are 
freshened  by  washing  the  pods,  and  then  soaking  them  in 
fresh  water  over  night.  Put  them  over  the  fire  into  cold 
water  and  boil  till  tender. 

SNAP  BEANS. 

Gather  them  when '  young,  snap  off  the  stalks,  and  pull 
off  the  strings ;  but  do  not  break  them,  for  if  young  they 
are  nicer  whole.  Put  them  with  a  little  salt  into  boiling 
water,  and  boil  them  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Take  them 
up  and  drain  them  in  a  colander.  Put  them  into  a  dish  with 
pieces  of  butter,  or  pour  a  little  melted  butter  over  them,  or  a 
made  brown  gravy.  If  the  beans  are  old,  put  a  bit  of  saler- 
atus  in  the  water  they  are  to  be  boiled  in,  and  cut  the  beans, 
and  boil  them  rapidly.  Do  not  let  them  float  in  butter  or 
gravy. 

WINTER    DISH    OF    BAKED    BEANS. 

This  disli  is  generally  considered  too  hearty  for  warm 
weather.  Pick  the  beans,  wash  them,  and  put  them  to  soak 
over  night  in  a  good  deal  of  water.  In  the  morning  pour  this 
water  off,  and  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  cold  water  and  let  them 
simmer  till  quite  tender.  Take  them  up,  and  drain  them 
through  a  colander ;  when  thoroughly  drained,  put  them  into 
a  deep  baking-pan  with  a  large  piece  of  scored  salt-pork  sunk 


76  BED-CLOTHES. 

to  the  rind.  Pour  boiling  water  over  them,  and  bake  five  or 
six  hours ;  or  if  you  have  a  good  brick  oven,  keep  them  in 
over  night.  This  constant  change  of  water  which  is  recom- 
mended has  a  tendency  to  diminish  the  flatulency  of  this 
vegetable,  which  too  often  induces  gripings. 

BEDS.  Modern  practice  eschews  the  luxurious  feather 
bed,  and  mattresses  made  of  wool  for  winter  use,  and  of  horse- 
hair for  summer,  are  mostly  considered  desirable  beds.  But 
though  these  materials  largely  supply  the  market,  palm-leaf, 
cut  straw,  cornstalks,  and  various  mosses  are  often  used  for 
filling  mattresses.  Springs  are  inserted  in  nicely  made  hair- 
mattresses  to  give  them  elasticity. 

A  large  bed,  to  be  comfortable,  requires  about  sixty  pounds 
of  wool.  If  constantly  used,  it  will  need  to  be  taken  out 
every  two  or  three  years,  carded,  and  a  few  pounds  of  wool 
added.  Linen  ticking  is  much  nicer  than  cotton.  Poland 
starch  put  on  wet,  and  dried  in  the  sun,  will  remove  oil  spots, 
and  cleanse  a  ticking  which  may  not  need  to  be  washed  all 
over. 

Pillows  and  bolsters,  whether  filled  with  feathers,  or  stuffed 
with  hair,  should  be  generously  plumped,  both  for  econ- 
omy of  wear  and  for  comfort.  Small  pillows  stuffed  with 
hops  sometimes  quiet  nervous  headache,  and  induce  sleep. 
Square  pillows  stuffed  with  horse-hair  are  prescribed  for 
persons  afflicted  with  weak  or  disordered  eyes. 

BED-CLOTHES.  Linen  sheets,  excepting  for  a  New 
England  winter  are  much  to  be  preferred.  Russia  sheeting 
is  very  substantial  in  wear.  Sheets  should  always  be  made 
a  little  larger  than  the  bed  they  are  to  cover ;  pillow  and 
bolster  cases  should  always  fit  easily.  In  covering  pillows, 
a  case  of  strong  thick  muslin  slipped  on  before  the  linen  one 
has  a  comfortable  clad  look.  Pillow-cases  are  often  made 


BEECH.  77 

for  buttons  and  trimmed  with  a  frill,  the  square  ones  be- 
ing trimmed  on  all  the  sides. 

Blankets  which  are  not  in  use  should  be  kept  closely- 
folded  in  Russia  sheeting,  with  bits  of  camphor,  and  put  in 
some  cool,  dark  closet,  or  packed  in  camphor  trunks,  if  such 
are  in  the  house. 

It  is  well,  where  it  is  convenient,  to  have  the  outside  quilt 
correspond  in  quality  and  color  with  the  carpet  and  curtains, 
and  the  general  furniture  of  the  room.  Where  bed-curtains 
are  hung,  they  are  generally  of  the  same  material  as  the 
outside  coverlet. 

Stuffed  coverlets,  or  poor  man's  blankets,  as  they  are  fre- 
quently called,  are  made  sometimes  of  soft  lawn  from  dresses 
that  have  been  put  aside,  with  a  thin  layer  of  all-wool  wad- 
ding, which  comes  now  in  sheets  as  cotton  does.  They  are 
inexpensive,  and  are  often  grateful  to  invalids  when  heavier 
materials  would  be  oppressive.  I  have  seen  a  very  nice 
stuffed  coverlet,  made  of  a  dozen  large  East  India  silk 
pocket-handkerchiefs,  each  a  yard  square,  filled  with  eider- 
down ;  both  sides  were  alike,  and  the  coverlet  of  a  good  size. 
It  was  very  light  and  very  warm.  Silk  dresses,  when  laid 
aside  as  dresses,  make  nice  stuffed  coverlets. 

BEECH  (Fagus  sylvatica).  This  tree  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  of  England's  forest-trees.  It  is  native  to  the 
greater  part  of  the  North  of  Europe.  The  red  and  purple 
are  seedling  varieties  of  Fagus  sylvatica. 

The  Red  Beech  (Fagus  ferruginea)  decays  when  ex- 
posed to  the  extremes  of  moisture  and  dryness.  It  does  not 
readily  warp,  and  is  much  used  for  making  tools,  for  which 
its  hardness  and  smooth  grain  recommend  it. 

Beech  mast,  or  the  nuts  and  seeds  of  this  tree,  yield  on 
pressure  an  oil  equal  to  the  best  olive-oil,  and  which  keeps 
without  acquiring  a  rancid  taste  longer  than  olive-oil.  In 
7* 


78 


BEEF. 


England,  it  was  once  much  used  in  the  place  of  butter. 
Roasted,  the  nuts  have  often  formed  a  substitute  for  coffee. 
(Bigelow,  Farmer's  Encyclopaedia.) 

BEEF.  The  virtues  of  our  ever-to-be  respected  ances- 
tors have  always  been  largely  attributed  to  the  excellence  of 
their  beef.  It  is  related  of  an  old  blunt  English  command- 
er, that  at  Cadiz  he  addressed  his  soldiers  in  these  terms : 
"  What  a  shame  will  it  be  to  you,  Englishmen,  who  feed  upon 
good  beef,  to  let  those  Spaniards  beat  you,  that  live  upon 
oranges  and  lemons." 

By  virtue  of  his  extensive  and  constant  experience,  the 
London  butcher  must  be  installed  as  a  judge  from  whom  the 
wise  will  not  appeal ;  and  his  mode  of  cutting  up  a  carcass 
is,  I  believe,  followed  in  the  main  features  in  our  large  cities. 
The  figure  below  represents  the  English  mode  of  cutting  up 
a  carcass  of  beef. 


HIND   QUARTER. 

/,  loin  or  sirloin. 

r,  rump. 

a  i,  aitch-bone. 

6,  buttock  or  round. 

h,  hock. 

/,  thick  flank. 

</,  thin  flank. 

s,  shin. 


FORE   QUARTER. 

f  T)  fore  rib. 

m  r,  middle  rib. 

c  r,  chuck  rib. 

n,  neck,  clod,  and  sticking. 

b  t,  brisket. 

I  m,  leg-of-mutton  piece. 

s,  shin. 


BEEF.  79 

The  principal  roasting-piece  is  /,  the  loin  or  sirloin ;  r,  the 
rump,  is  the  favorite  steak-piece,  while  b,  the  buttock  or 
round,  is  very  nice  boiled,  when  corned,  and  is  the  piece 
chosen  par  excellence  for  the  popular  dish,  beef  d  la  mode. 
The  flanks,  (/,  thick  flank,  and  t  f,  thin  flank)  are  also  nice 
for  boiling,  when  corned ;  A,  the  hock,  and  s,  the  shin,  make 
nice  soups,  and  afford  what  is  technically  called  stock,  while 
t,  the  tail,  is  used  for  ox-tail  soup.  These  are  the  pieces  in 
the  hind  quarter. 

In  the  fore  quarter,  fr,  fore  rib,  m  r,  middle  rib,  c  r,  chuck 
rib,  are  all  roasting-pieces,  but  not  of  equal  excellence.  The 
part  of  the  shoulder-blade  of  the  middle  rib  being  removed, 
the  spareribs  below  make  a  good  broil  or  roast,  n,  the  neck, 
is  used  fresh  for  soup,  and  the  back  end  of  the  brisket,  b  t,  is 
boiled,  corned,  or  stewed.  I  m,  leg-of-mutton  piece,  is  coarse, 
but  is  as  frequently  stewed  as  boiled,  s,  the  shin,  is  used  for 
the  same  purposes  as  the  shin  and  hock  of  the  hind  quarter. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  most  valuable  pieces,  the  roast- 
ing, are  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  carcass ;  and  the  inferior, 
the  boiling,  occupy  the  lower  part.  Every  beast,  therefore, 
that  lays  on  beef  on  the  upper  parts  of  its  body  is  more  val- 
uable to  the  butcher,  than  one  that  lays  the  same  quantity  of 
flesh  on  its  lower  parts.  (Stephens's  Book  of  the  Farm.) 

There  is  no  difference  in  price  between  heifer  and  ox  beef, 
both  being  equally  well  fed.  The  lean  of  ox-flesh  has  a 
brighter  red,  and  the  fat  not  so  clear  a  white  as  heifer-beef, 
and  it  is  generally  thought  a  little  richer  than  cow-beef. 
Good  beef  should  have  a  tender  feel,  .a  bright  red  color  in 
the  lean  parts,  and  be  white  in  the  fatty  portions. 

A  LA  MODE  BEEF. 

Take  a  piece  of  the  round  of  beef,  eight  or  ten  pounds, 
cut  out  the  bone,  and  tie  your  beef  in  a  handsome  round 
shape ;  with  a  small,  sharp  knife  make  incisions  in  the  beef, 


80  BEEF. 

cutting  deeply  inside,  but  have  the  cut  on  the  outside  small. 
These  holes  are  to  be  filled  with  the  stuffing,  which  also  is 
partly  reserved  for  the  force-meat  balls.  Put  your  beef  into 
a  large  pot,  so  that  it  may  lie  flat,  with  water  nearly  sufficient 
to  cover  it ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  cloves,  and  one  onion, 
a  little  sage,  or  any  sweet  herb  you  prefer. 

Let  the  beef  boil  slowly  for  two  hours,  then  add  a  pint  of 
red  wine,  a  little  tomato  catchup,  and  then  put  in  your  balls, 
and  keep  them  in  for  twenty  minutes.  If  the  gravy  boils 
away,  add  a  little  water. 

Force-meat  balls  for  the  above  are  made  thus :  —  Take  a 
loaf  of  baker's  flour-bread,  grate  it,  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
beef-suet,  chopped  very  fine ;  season  it  highly  with  pepper, 
clove,  salt,  nutmeg  or  mace,  cayenne,  and  sweet-marjoram. 
Wet  the  whole,  after  thorough  mixing,  with  eggs.  Roll  them 
into  small  balls.  If  you  wish  to  fry  some  of  the  balls,  take 
but  little  butter,  as  the  fat  fries  from  them. 

This  dish  warms  up  very  nicely,  especially  if  that  which 
is  left  be  covered,  and  allowed  to  lie  in  its  gravy. 

BEEF,  CORNED. 

Beef  that  is  to  be  corned  should  be  thoroughly  rubbed  with 
part  of  the  salt  intended  for  the  pickle,  covered  closely,  and 
allowed  to  remain  for  three  days  ;  it  is  well,  where  it  is  possi- 
ble, to  rub  the  salt  in  before  the  animal  heat  has  "  all  gone 
by,"  the  passage  of  the  bloody  slime  being  facilitated  by  a 
little  animal  heat.  A  mixture  of  rock  or  Liverpool  and 
Bay  salt  is  nicest  for  curing  meats.  After  the  meat  has 
lain  in  the  salt  for  three  days,  take  it  out  and  brush  and 
wipe  it  with  a  damp  cloth.  Pack  the  pieces  closely  into  a 
clean  tub,  and  between  each  piece  sprinkle  salt,  putting  also 
salt  on  the  bottom  of  the  tub,  and  laying  the  fleshy  parts 
downwards.  Pour  the  pickle,  prepared  as  below,  when  it  is 
quite  cold,  over  the  whole,  taking  care  to  have  the  meat 


BEEF.  81 

kept  covered  with  the  pickle  by  great  weights  or  stones,  and 
excluded  from  the  air  by  a  wooden  cover,  or  boards  nailed 
closely  together. 

Pickle  for  Beef. 

Take  four  gallons  of  water,  to  which  add  one  pound  and  a 
half  of  sugar,  five  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  six  pounds  of  salt. 
Put  the  whole  into  a  clean  pot,  and  let  it  boil ;  take  off  the 
scum  constantly  as  it  rises,  remove  the  pot  from  the  fire 
when  the  liquor  looks  clear,  and  when  cold  cover  your  meat 
with  it. 

Another. 

To  six  gallons  of  water,  put  six  quarts  of  Liverpool  and 
Bay  salt,  three  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  three  ounces  of  salt- 
petre, one  ounce  of  pearlash,  and  one  gallon  of  molasses. 
Proceed  as  above. 

A  salted  round  of  beef,  containing  seventeen  or  eighteen 
pounds,  requires  to  simmer  slowly  at  least  four  hours. 
Brisket,  of  nine  or  ten  pounds,  should  be  boiled  slowly,  or 
simmered  for  three  hours. 

Where  a  round  or  rump  of  beef  is  to  be  cured  alone,  it  is 
frequently  rubbed  with  mixed  salts  and  spices,  and  basted 
with  the  brine  every  day  for  five  or  six  weeks  ;  and  it  may 
be  taken  out  and  dried  or  boiled  out  of  this"  pickle. 

TONGUES. 

Tongues  are  cured  in  the  same  way.  Bacon  pickle,  where 
it  has  been  nicely  prepared,  will  cure  tongues  after  the  hams 
have  been  removed. 

Tongues  salted  and  dried  are  steeped  in  a  weak  brine, 
washed  out,  and  rubbed  with  salt  by  the  hand.  Allow  them 
to  remain  twenty-four  hours  in  the  salt,  then  wipe  with  a 
damp  cloth,  and  rub  again  with  salt  and  brown  sugar. 
Cover  them  with  pickle  for  a  fortnight ;  take  them  out,  wipe 
them,  rub  them  with  bran,  and  make  a  hole  through  the  root ; 


82  BEEF. 

pass  a  twine  through  it,  and  hang  them  in  a  cool,  dark  place 
after  they  have  been  smoked.  Tongues,  when  fresh,  require 
two  hours  to  boil ;  but  if  salted  and  dried,  they  will  take  from 
three  to  four  hours,  and  will  require  to  be  soaked  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  the  water  to  be  changed  at  night.  Salted 
meats  must  be  put  into  a  great  deal  of  cold  water  when  they 
are  to  be  cooked,  and  simmered,  and  never  boiled  hard. 
For  baked  tongues,  see  Baked  Meats. 

BEEF,  ROASTED. 

The  sirloin,  rib-pieces,  and  in  small  families  the  piece  that 
is  left  from  the  rump  after  the  steaks  are  cut  off,  are  all 
roasted.  The  fire  should  be  got  well  going,  with  a  substantial 
constitution,  before  the  meat  is  put  down.  Sometimes  a 
backlog  of  tan,  or  wet  ashes,  thrown  in  at  the  back  of  the 
chimney,  throws  the  heat  in  front.  When  the  fire  is  to  be 
stirred,  the  meat  should  be  drawn  aside,  to  escape  the  smoke 
and  ashes.  In  the  first  stages  of  the  roasting,  place  the  tin- 
kitchen  or  roaster  at  a  distance  from  the  fire,  and  baste  fre- 
quently with  water,  seasoned  with  a  little  salt.  Meat  should 
get  thoroughly  heated  through  before  it  begins  to  brown. 
Where  beef  is  very  fat,  the  dripping-pan  may  be  emptied 
once  or  twice,  and  still  enough  remain  to  make  the  gravy. 
Beef  dripping  is  very  nice  for  frying  potatoes  and  breakfast 
cakes,  when  it  has  been  nicely  clarified.  As  the  meat  as- 
sumes a  rich  brown,  a  little  flour  can  be  sifted  over  it  from 
the  dredging-box,  but  the  meat  must  remain  long  enough  to 
brown  it.  A  sirloin  weighing  fifteen  to  eighteen  pounds  will 
take  four  hours  of  roasting ;  but  ribs  of  the  same  weight  will 
be  done  in  half  an  hour  less. 

BEEFSTEAKS. 

Beef  for  steaks,  though  it  does  not  require  to  be  mellowed 
by  time  so  long  as  a  large  roasting-piece,  eats  tenderer  for 
being  three  or  four  days  old. 


BEEF.  83 

Rump  steaks  are  preferred  by  many,  but  in  New  York 
steaks  from  the  sirloin  or  sparerib  are  thought  richer  and 
more  tender ;  the  bone  is  chopped  away,  and  the  fat  par- 
tially trimmed.  Steaks  should  be  cut  of  an  even  thickness,  ' 
and  not  quite  an  inch  thick.  Have  a  fire  of  clean,  bright 
coals,  heat  the  gridiron,  and  rub  the  bars  with  a  little  suet ; 
throw  a  very  little  salt  over  the  coals,  and  do  the  steaks  as 
quickly  as  possible,  turning  them  quickly.  Have  your  dish 
hot,  and  put  pieces  of  fresh  butter  on  the  steak,  with  a  little 
salt.  If  the  beef  is  prime,  no  water  or  catchup  will  be 
required.  Serve  immediately  wljile  it  is  hot,  and  its  rich 
juices  will  be  honor  enough  for  it.  Twelve  or  fourteen  min- 
utes will  cook  steaks  of  the  above  thickness. 

BEEFSTEAK  PIE. 

Cut  steaks  quite  thin,  and  flatten  them,  turn  them  over  in 
some  mixed  spices  in  which  is  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  lay 
them  in  the  bottom  of  the  baking-dish,  and  place  bits  of 
boiled  onion  and  fresh  butter  over  them.  (Omit  the  butter  if 
the  beef  is  well  mixed  with  fat.)  Fill  the  dish  a  little  more 
than  two  thirds  full,  sprinkling  onion  between  each  layer  of 
meat.  Pour  over  the  whole  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  highly 
seasoned  with  walnut  catchup.  Put  the  dish  away  to  get 
cool,  then  cover  it  round  the  lid  with  paste,  and  cover  with 
ornamented  paste.  It  is  well  to  have  a  centre  ornament, 
that,  when  the  pie  is  baked,  can  be  removed,  and  afford  an 
opportunity,  should  it  have  baked  dry,  of  adding  fresh  hot 
liquor  before  it  goes  to  the  table.  Any  pieces  that  have 
been  left  from  a  roast  or  steak  will  make  this  pie. 

BRISKET  OF  BEEF. 

The  Brisket  of  Beef  may  be  boned  and  baked ;  then  it  is 
laid  in  a  deep  pan,  seasoned  with  salt  and  mixed  spices,  wal- 
nut or  mushroom  catchup,  and  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and 
dredged  with  flour.  Bake  three  hours.  Skim  the  fat  off. 


84  BEEF. 

It  is  also  as  frequently  stewed.  Boil  it  in  just  water 
enough  to  cover  it;  when  tender  take  out  the  bones,  skim  off 
the  fat  from  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  walnut  catchup,  and  a  little  red  wine ;  thicken  it  with 
browned  flour  stirred  into  melted  butter.  Flour  is  browned 
by  putting  some  over  the  fire  in  a  flat  dish,  and  stirring  it  till 
it  is  brown  and  of  an  even  color.  The  butter  softens  the 
smoky  taste  that  browned  flour  generally  acquires.  Pour 
the  gravy  hot  over  the  meat,  and  garnish  with  carrots  cut  in 
thin  slices  and  fried  a  delicate  brown. 

COLLARED  BEEF. 

Take  the  thin  flank,  rub  it  thoroughly  with  salt  and  a  little 
saltpetre,  and  let  it  drain  over  night.  In  the  morning  wash 
it,  cut  out  the  gristle,  and  remove  the  outer  and  inner  skin. 
Pound  a  little  clove  very  fine,  mix  with  it  salt,  pepper,  and 
a  little  sugar,  rub  the  mixture  thoroughly  in,  and  let  it  re- 
main over  a  week  in  the  pickle  that  will  make,  turning  and 
basting  it  every  day.  Take  it  out  of  the  pickle  and  roll  it 
up  as  tight  as  possible ;  bandage  with  strips  of  strong  cloth, 
and  tie  these  with  tape.  Put  it  into  cold  water  and  let  it 
simmer  for  five  or  six  hours.  When  done,  place  it  between 
boards,  and  press  it  with  heavy  weights  until  perfectly  cold. 
This  is  usually  sliced  cold ;  the  ends  should  be  trimmed  when- 
ever sent  to  the  table  whole. 

HASHED  BEEF. 

Hashes  are  generally  made  of  cold  meat.  Cut  away  all 
the  gristle  and  the  burnt  pieces,  and  let  the  slices  remain  in 
the  juices  of  the  meat.  If  you  have  no  ready-made  stock, 
prepare  a  broth  from  the  bones  and  outside  pieces  ;  strain  it 
through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  season  it  with  some  catchup,  pep- 
per, and  salt ;  heat  it  again,  and  stir  the  meat  into  it  just  be- 
fore it  is  sent  to  the  table,  allowing  it  only  time  enough  to 


BEEF.  85 

heat  through.  Cut  the  meat  into  such  pieces  as  suits  con- 
venience, either  in  mouth fuls  or  slices ;  but  they  should  not 
be  thick.  Garnish  with  bread  cut  in  the  form  of  dice,  and 
fried  in  strained  beef  dripping,  or  with  toasted  bread  soaked 
in  the  broth. 

BEEF  HEART. 

Cut  the  heart,  and  put  it  to  soak  in  water,  that  the  blood 
may  ooze  out.  Wipe  it,  and  trim  it,  cutting  the  lobes  out ; 
make  a  stuffing  of  grated  baker's  bread,  spices,  and  salt,  wet 
with  eggs ;  stuff  the  heart,  and  sew  it  up.  Roast  it  with  pa- 
per over  it.  A  large  heart  will  take  two  hours  and  a  half 
to  cook. 

BEEF  LIVER. 

Be  sure  that  it  is  fresh.  Soak  it  in  cold  water  a  few 
minutes.  Take  it  out  and  wipe  it  dry.  Fry  out  rashers 
of  salt-pork,  and  lay  slices  of  the  liver,  cut  three  quarters  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  in  the  frying-pan,  and  fry  them  slowly 
till  they  are  brown.  Beef  kidneys  are  served  in  this  way, 
excepting  that  butter  is  used  instead  of  pork,  and  when  they 
are  browned,  a  catchup  sauce  is  poured  over  them  hot. 

MINCED  BEEF. 

Cut  the  beef  very  fine,  and  take  potatoes  enough  to 
make  one  third  of  the  dish,  mash  them  smoothly  with  a  lit- 
tle cream  or  melted  butter,  and  stir  them  into  the  meat  with 
a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Moisten  the  whole  with  beef  gravy 
or  dripping,  which  has  been  nicely  strained.  Put  it  into  a 
small  kettle,  and  let  it  brown.  This  dish  is  made  from  the 
debris  of  roast  meat. 

Beef  kidneys  may  be  minced  very  fine,  and  seasoned 
highly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fried  brown  in  butter, 
put  in  a  hot  dish,  and  a  gravy  seasoned  with  walnut  catchup 
poured  over  them. 

8 


86  BEES. 

PRESSED  BEEF. 

The  brisket,  flank,  and  thin  part  of  the  ribs  are  the  pieces 
which  are  pressed.  Take  out  the  bones,  salt  and  season 
the  piece  with  such  spices  as  you  prefer,  and  let  it  lie  about 
a  week  closely  covered.  Boil  it  slowly  till  tender,  take  it 
from  the  pot,  and  press  it  under  heavy  weights  till  cold.  It 
sends  the  juices  through  the  beef,  and  by  remaining  pressed 
till  cold  cuts  in  thin  slices. 

BEEF  UDDER. 

This  is  eaten  in  Virginia,  either  boiled  fresh  and  cut  in 
slices  when  cold,  and  served  with  salt  and  mustard,  or  it  is 
salted  for  a  day  or  two  and  eaten  cold.  It  is  sometimes 
boiled,  chopped  fine,  and  used  for  stuffings. 

BEES.  These  little  creatures  love  thyme,  mignonette, 
alyssum,  and  honeysuckle.  Hives  should  never  be  placed 
in  a  roofed  stand ;  it  heats  the  bees,  and  frequently  induces 
them  to  form  on  the  outside  of  their  hives.  They  should  be 
placed  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  garden,  but  with  sufficient 
space  around  them  to  allow  the  attacks  of  their  depredators 
to  be  seen  and  warded  -off.  If  no  water  is  near,  place  shal- 
low pans  near  the  hives  with  water  and  a  little  salt,  and 
have  bits  of  stick  float  on  the  surface,  to  prevent  the  bees 
drowning  by  slipping  from  the  sides  of  the  vessel.  In  the 
early  spring,  and  late  in  autumn,  before  you  house  them  for 
winter,  they  must  be  fed.  For  this  purpose,  put  to  a  quart 
of  beer  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  boil  it  five  minutes  only. 

Never  destroy  bees.  They  live  only  one  year,  and  in 
killing  them,  the  young  bees  that  would  work  in  the  spring 
are  lost.  The  year-old  bees  die  in  August,  By  smoking 
the  bees  with  tobacco  while  working  upon  a  hive,  they  are 
rendered  harmless.  Sticks  in  the  hive  are  useless  arid  in- 
convenient. 


BEER.  87 

If  stung,  extract  the  sting,  apply  immediately  sweet  oil, 
laudanum,  or  Goulard's  extract,  which  is  a  preparation  used 
for  inflammations,  and  so  called  from  the  inventor.  (Farm- 
er's Encyclopaedia.) 

BEESWAX.  This  substance  has  been  classed  with  veg- 
etable matters ;  but  the  experiments  of  Huber  have  shown 
that  it  is  produced  by  the  bees  themselves,  and  not  gathered 
by  them  directly  from  plants.  When  the  honey  is  drained 
from  the  wax,  it  can  be  purified  for  domestic  uses  by  tying 
it  with  something  heavy  in  a  bag,  and  putting  the  bag  into 
a  pot  of  clear  cold  water.  As  the  water  heats,  the  wax  will 
be  thrown  to  the  surface.  Skim  it  off,  and  place  it  in  sau- 
cers, and  expose  it  to  the  light  and  air,  and  occasionally  wet 
it  with  water,  till  it  is  whitened  or  bleached. 

Bayberry,  Candleberry,  or  Myrtle  wax  (Myrica  ceri- 
fera)  is  a  harder  substance  than  beeswax,  obtained  from  the 
berries  of  the  myrtle  by  boiling  them  in  water.  (Bigelow.) 

BEER.  Though  beer  is  chiefly  made  of  malt  and  hops, 
there  are  some  simple  beverages  in  which  only  the  latter  is 
used,  and  others  in  which  a  substitute  for  hops  is  found. 

CHILDREN'S  BEER. 

To  three  spoonfuls  of  ginger  pour  a  bucketful  of  boiling 
water.  Allow  it  to  cool,  then  add  to  it  one  pint  of  good 
yeast,  and  one  pint  of  molasses.  Cover  it  with  a  coarse 
cloth,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place.  Bottle  in  the  even- 
ing. 

MOLASSES-BEER. 

Put  to  six  gallons  of  soft  water  six  pints  of  West  India 
molasses  and  a  handful  of  hops  tied  in  a  muslin  bag,  and 
let  it  boil  twenty  minutes.  When  it  has  cooled,  put  to  it  a 
pint  of  lively  beer  yeast.  Cover  the  beer  with  a  coarse  cloth, 


88  BLACKBERRY. 

and  when  it  has  done  fermenting,  pour  it  off  into  clean  bot- 
tles, and  stop  with  good  cork-wood  corks.     See  Ale. 

BEETS.  Beets  are  boiled  till  tender,  to  be  eaten  with 
salt  cod-fish.  Wash,  and,  without  scraping,  boil  them  whole. 
They  are  used  to  ornament  salads.  They  make,  when  boiled, 
and  put  into  vinegar,  either  sliced  or  whole,  a  cheap  and 
wholesome  pickle.  When  quite  small  they  may  be  boiled 
with  the  leaves  for  greens.  See  under  Art  of  Gardening. 


BERGAMOT.  The  well-known  oil  or  essence  of  berga- 
mot,  which  is  imported  from  the  South  of  Europe,  is  extract- 
ed from  the  rind  of  the  fruit  Citrus  bergamia,  which  grows 
on  a  moderate-sized  tree  that  bears  small  white  flowers, 
and  fruit  of  a  pyriform  shape  and  pale  yellow  color.  The 
rind  is  filled  with  oil-vesicles.  (Farmer's  Encyclopaedia.) 

BIRD-PEPPER.  A  variety  of  Capsicum,  sometimes 
called  Bird's-bill,  or  Long  Red.  It  yields  Cayenne  pepper 
when  dried  and  pulverized. 

BLACKBERRY.  The  Bramble  is  native  to  this  coun- 
try. The  varieties  esteemed  for  the  table,  and  sometimes 
cultivated,  are, — 

High  Bush  (Rubus  villosus).  This  bush  grows  four  or 
five  feet  high,  produces  white  flowers,  and  its  berries  have  a 
spirited  piquancy. 

Low  Bush  (Rubus  Canadensis),  or  Trailing  Blackberry. 
A  trailing  prickly  shrub,  throwing  out,  as  the  above,  white 
blossoms.  The  fruit  is  sweet,  but  has  hardly  so  much  spirit 
as  the  first. 

The  soil  should  be  well  worked,  and  enriched  with  ashes, 
leaves,  and  vegetable  mould,  besides  other  fertilizers,  to 
produce  handsome  fruit.  Propagate  by  seed  and  by  off- 


BLANCMANGE.  89 

shoots  at  the  root.     Cut  away  old  wood,  and  cultivate  the 
new.     (Cole's  American  Fruit  Book.) 

Tli ere  is  a  variety  which  yields  white  fruit,  but  it  is  rarely 
seen. 

BLACKBERRY  CORDIAL. 

Take  fine,  ripe  fruit,  rejecting,  as  you  pick  them  over, 
those  of  reddish  hue  ;  squeeze  these  berries  through  a  flan- 
nel bag.  To  a  quart  of  juice  put  one  pound  of  best  loaf- 
sugar.  Put  it  into  a  stone-jar  and  let  it  remain  three  days, 
the  first  day  stirring  it  frequently.  On  the  fourth  day  strain 
through  a  sieve,  and  to  a  quart  of  the  juice  add  a  quart  of 
brandy.  Bottle  for  use.  This  is  excellent  for  summer  dis- 
orders, if  taken  in  moderate  quantity,  and  repeated  occasion- 
ally. See  Jelly. 

BLACKING.  Liquid  or  paste,  for  blacking  and  polishing 
boots  and  shoes. 

LIQUID  BLACKING. 

Wet  four  ounces  of  ivory -black  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
sweet  oil,  mix  it  to  a  smooth  paste,  beat  into  it  gradually 
four  spoonfuls  of  molasses ;  add  to  this  one  half-pint  of  good 
vinegar,  one  half-ounce  of  oil  of  vitriol,  one  ounce  of  laven- 
der-water, mixing  well  as  you  proceed,  and,  lastly,  the  juice 
of  one  lemon. 

BLANCMANGE.  One  ounce  of  Russia  isinglass  is  suf- 
ficient for  one  quart  of  milk,  but  the  other  kinds  will  require 
half  an  ounce  more  to  each  quart.  Let  the  isinglass  be 
dissolved  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  taking  care  that  it 
does'not  burn,  and  that  it  is  a  transparent  liquid  ;  stir  it  into 
a  quart  of  milk  ;  season  it  with  rose-water  and  a  stick  of  cin- 
namon, and  sweeten  to  your  taste  ;  put  it  into  a  porcelain  ket- 
tle, and  let  it  boil.  Strain  it  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag,  and 
8* 


90  BOILING. 

put  it  into  moulds.  If  you  wish  the  coloring  of  corn,  beat 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  lightly,  and  stir  them  to  one  pint  of 
milk. 

Blancmange  appears  in  a  vast  variety.  It  may  be  made 
of  rice,  swelled  in  hot  water,  and  boiled  in  rich  milk  to  a 
mash ;  it  is  often  made  of  calves'  feet  stock,  of  sparkling  gela- 
tine, and  many  preparations  of  isinglass,  and  flavored  with 
vanilla,  chocolate,  or  what  you  please. 

Moulds  should  be  left  damp  with  cold  water  before  putting 
in  the  blancmange.  A  cloth  dipped  in  hot  water  is  some- 
times laid  over  the  bottom  of  the  mould  where  there  is  any 
difficulty  about  its  turning  out.  See  Almond  Blancmange. 

BOILING.  Meat,  whether  fresh  or  salted,  smoked  or 
dried,  should  always  be  put  into  cold  water  ;  the  only  excep- 
tions being  with  fowls  and  white  meats,  where  the  water  may 
have  the  chill  taken  off,  and  salted  meat  that  does  not  require 
to  be  much  freshened.  Dried  meats  and  fish  must  be 
soaked  for  several  days  before  they  are  boiled. 

The  delicacy  of  meats,  and  their  integrity  of  color,  are 
greatly  preserved  by  the  constant  removal  of  the  scum  which 
is  thrown  up  in  boiling.  It  is  a  good  way  when  it  makes 
its  strongest  appearance  to  throw  in  a  little  cold  water,  and 
bring  it  to  a  mass,  and  take  the  pot  off  and  carefully  remove 
it ;  if  any  adheres  after  the  meat  is  boiled,  dip  a  cloth  in  hot 
water  and  wipe  it  off.  Never  pierce  meat  that  is  boiling 
with  a  fork ;  the  juices  escape. 

Pot  liquor,  or  the  water  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled,  is 
useful  for  stock,  especially  that  in  which  fresh  lamb,  mutton, 
or  poultry  has  been  boiled. 

Boil  or  simmer  meat  slowly,  particularly  after  the  scum 
has  risen  generously. 

Dried  and  salted  meats  require  twice  the  time  to  cook  that 
fresh  meat  takes. 


BORAX.  91 

Cabbage  and  greens  are  often  cooked  with  corned  beef. 
Where  the  liquor  is  to  be  used  afterward,  such  vegetables 
may  be  boiled  in  a  separate  pot,  and  some  of  the  pot  liquor 
of  the  meat  may  be  transferred  to  the  vessel  they  are  boiled  in. 

Old  hams  should  be  soaked  twelve  hours  before  boiling 
them,  the  water  frequently  changed,  and  when  boiled,  they 
should  be  put  into  a  large  pot  filled  with  water. 

BONNY-CLABBER.  In  New  England,  milk  soured 
to  this  form  is  administered  to  poultry  and  to  pigs  ;  in  warmer 
latitudes  we  have  seen  it  served  up,  while  fresh,  with  nut- 
meg, sugar,  and  wine.  Under  such  treatment,  and  placed  in 
delicate  china,  it  makes  a  pretty  dish,  and  eats  well  on  a  hot 
day. 

BOOK-MUSLIN.  These  muslins  are  popular  for  dresses, 
because  they  do  up  nicely,  and  can  be  worn  a  few  times  be- 
fore being  washed.  They  should  be  of  a  good  white,  for 
blue  whites,  whether  for  bonnets  or  dresses,  are  unbecoming 
even  to  the  young  and  lovely. 

In  washing  this  muslin,  prepare  a  warm  suds  made  of 
white  bar-soap,  and  squeeze  it  gently  through  two  or  three 
of  these  suds,  and  rinse  in  pure  water  as  many  times  ;  lastly, 
put  it  through  a  thin  starch-water.  Pick  it  carefully  apart, 
and  hang  it  in  the  sun,  over  a  dry  white  sheet.  Take  it  in, 
sprinkle  it  evenly,  and  fold  it  in  a  white  towel,  and  let  it. re- 
main some  hours  in  the  clothes-basket.  When  you  take  it 
out,  clap  it  with  your  hands  to  clear-starch  it,  as  it  is  techni- 
cally called,  and  iron  before  it  is  too  dry,  on  the  wrong  side. 

BORAX.  This  salt  is  sometimes  efficacious  in  correcting 
cutaneous  eruptions.  Dissolve  an  ounce  of  borax  in  a  quart 
of  water,  and  with  a  soft  sponge  bathe  the  face,  night  and 
morning. 


92  BOX-WOOD. 

The  eruption  induced  by  the  working  of  a  small  insect 
under  the  skin  has  been  removed  by  rubbing  the  flour  of 
sulphur  on  the  face  with  the  finger,  every  morning,  while  the 
face  is  still  damp  with  the  morning  bath,  and  afterward  dust- 
ing it  off  with  soft  linen. 

BOX- WOOD.  The  Box-tree  (Buxus  sempervirens)  is 
from  the  South  of  Europe.  Its  wood,  of  yellowish  color  and 
compact,  hard  grain,  is  employed  for  musical  wind-instru- 
ments and  mathematical  instruments.  Wood  engravings  are 
also  cut  in  this  wood.  The  surface  is  planed  with  great  care, 
the  design  being  drawn  upon  this  smooth  surface  with  a 
black  lead  pencil.  The  pencillings  are  left  in  relief,  gravers 
or  chisels  of  different  sizes  being  employed  to  cut  away  the 
spaces  between  the  pencil-lines.  The  wood  is  cut  across  the 
grain  into  pieces  of  the  height  of  common  types,  to  increase 
the  strength  and  durability  of  the  engraving.  These  blocks 
may  be  inserted  in  a  page  with  common  types,  and  printed 
without  extra  expense.  They  are  very  durable,  and  can, 
if  required,  be  multiplied  by  the  process  of  stereotyping. 
(Bigelow.) 

Wood-engraving  owes  its  modern  revival  to  ancient  excel- 
lence to  Thomas  Bewick.  Cross-hatching,  as  practised  by 
Albert  Durer  and  the  old  engravers,  had  fallen  into  disuse, 
probably  from  the  amount  of  time  and  labor  required  for  its 
execution,  and  was  even  forgotten  when  Bewick  introduced 
gradation  of  shade  and  variety  of  tints,  consequently  more 
natural  perspective,  by  leaving  certain  parts  of  his  block 
less  prominent  than  such  as  were  to  produce  the  strongest 
lines,  taking  care,  however,  that  all  the  lines  should  give  an 
impression  upon  the  paper  which  was  to  take  picture.  By 
such  means  he  attained  the  delicacy  of  gradation  to  be  found 
in  copperplates. 

The  ease  with  which  wood-engravings  can  be  set  in  with 


BRAWN.  93 

type,  and  the  number  of  impressions  that  a  block  gives  with- 
out being  recut,  are  among  its  advantages  ;  a  good  wood-cut 
often  yields  fifty  thousand  impressions.  (Pursuit  of  Knowl- 
edge, Art.  Bewick.) 

BRANDY.  Brandy  is  often  obtained  by  the  distillation 
of  wine ;  at  its  greatest  strength  it  contains  between  forty 
and  fifty  per  cent  of  water.  The  best  brandies,  says  Davy, 
seem  to  owe  their  flavor  to  a  peculiar  oily  matter,  formed 
probably  by  the  action  of  tartaric  acid  upon  alcohol.  The 
Cogniac  brandies  contain  prussic  acid.  ( Farmer's  Encyclo- 
paedia.) 

BRASS.  This  metal  consists  of  copper  and  zinc.  There 
are  various  ways  of  cleaning  brass.  A  solution  of  oxalic  acid 
is  frequently  applied ;  but  from  its  being  a  ^virulent  poison, 
there  is  always  an  uneasiness  experienced  in  having  it  used. 
I  have  always  found  brass  kept  clean  longest  by  being  well 
rubbed  with  rotten-stone  wet  with  sweet  oil,  and  then  rubbed 
with  dry,  pulverized  rotten-stone.  Whiting  has  merely  a 
temporary  effect  on  brass.  Bits  of  wash-leather  and  silk  are 
good  for  the  final  polishing. 

BRAWN.  This  preparation  is  often  sold  in  the  market. 
Many  persons  prefer  to  have  it  home-made. 

Take  the  head  and  feet  of  a  hog  that  have  been  nicely 
cleaned;  have  the  head  cut  apart  and  the  ears  taken  off 
and  cut.  Put  the  whole  into  a  pot  and  boil  them  till  they 
are  quite  tender  and  fall  from  the  bones.  Take  the  meat 
out  into  a  large  deep  dish  ;  cut  it  with  a  sharp  knife  till  it  is 
quite  fine,  removing  every  bone  and  gristly  piece.  Season 
this  mince  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  finely  pounded 
clove  and  pulverized  sweet  herbs,  mixing  all  well  together. 
Tie  the  mince  in  a  large,  thick  cloth,  and  hang  it  with  a  dish 


94  BREAD. 

under  it  near  the  kitchen  fire,  and  let  it  drain.  When  it  has 
done  dripping,  set  it  away  in  a  cool  place,  but  not  where  it 
will  freeze.  This  is  sliced  cold,  and  eaten  with  mustard.  It 
will  keep,  if  the  cloth  is  kept  around  it,  several  weeks. 

When  the  water  is  cold  that  the  meat  has  been  boiled  in, 
skim  the  liquor ;  top-fat  nicely  clarified  being  useful  to  fry 
griddle-cakes  or  vegetables.  The  remainder  of  the  liquor  is 
nice  in  a  veal  or  pork  pot-pie. 

BREAD.  Stir  into  a  quart  of  water  which  has  been 
made  a  little  warm,  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  sifted  flour  enough 
to  make  a  batter  tolerably  thick.  Let  it  rise.  In  summer, 
if  yeast  and  flour  are  good,  it  will  rise  in  about  six  hours ;  in 
winter,  though  covered  near  the  fire,  it  will  take  nearly 
twice  the  time.  When  the  batter  has  risen,  have  ready 
half  a  pound  of  sifted  meal,  which  has  boiled  with  a  little 
salt  and  a  pint  of  water  for  over  an  hour ;  stir  into  the  meal 
a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  goose's  egg ;  mix  it  into  the 
batter,  with  flour  enough  to  make  it  stiff,  and  beat  it  with 
a  strong  spoon  for  a  long  time  very  hard.  Let  it  stand 
five  hours,  or  less  time  if  it  rises  well.  Knead  it  well, 
and  bake. 

Yeast  for  the  above  may  be  made  thus  :  —  Two  quarts  of 
water,  one  handful  of  hops ;  pare  a  potato  and  boil  it  dry ; 
stir  into  two  cups  of  sifted  flour  a  very  little  cold  water; 
strain  your  hop-water  on  to  the  flour,  stirring  it  all  the  while  ; 
mash  the  potato  very  fine,  and  add  it  to  the  flour ;  one  spoon- 
ful of  clean  sugar  may  be  put  to  it,  and  when  cool  enough 
add  a  little  yeast  to  make  it  rise. 

MILK  YEAST  BREAD. 

One  pint  of  new  milk,  one  pint  of  boiling  water ;  stir  in 
flour  enough  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Set  this  to  rise  in  a 
place  where  it  will  be  kept  quite  warm.  As  soon  as  it  is 


BRITANNIA.  95 

well  risen,  mix  this  batter  into  dough  for  bread.  Shape  it 
into  rolls  or  loaves  as  you  please,  and  let  it  rise  for  twenty 
minutes,  and  then  bake  it. 

WHEAT  BREAD. 

One  quart  of  unsifted  wheat-meal,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
water,  made  a  little  warmer  than  rain-water,  a  salt-spoon 
of  salt,  half  a  teacupful  of  molasses,  one  gill  of  yeast,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  saleratus,  and  one  cup  of  rich  milk.  Knead 
it  well,  and  add  a  little  sifted  meal  to  make  it  of  proper 
consistency,  being  careful,  however,  not  to  have  it  by  any 
means  stiff. 

It  is  well  to  get  new  wheat,  as  it  bakes  better.  Bake 
seasonably,  or  this  mixture  will  become  tart.  It  is  nice 
baked  in  muffin-rings  on  a  buttered  tin  sheet  in  a  quick 
oven. 

The  best  flour  is  always  cheapest,  both  as  regards  health 
and  actual  measurement.  Yeast  should  be  made  often,  and 
the  yeast-jug  kept  sweet  by  being  scalded  each  time  before 
fresh  yeast  is  put  in.  Brewer's  yeast  is  much  stronger  than 
home-made  yeast,  and  a  large  spoonful  is  sufficient  for  one 
quart  of  flour.  If  dough  is  thought  to  have  become  acid,  a 
little  saleratus  must  be  kneaded  in  ;  but  as  little  saleratus 
should  be  used  as  possible  in  making  bread. 

BREWIS.  Pour  milk  over  crusts  of  bread,  and  let 
them  soak  for  a  few  minutes  ;  boil  them  in  the  milk  for 
twenty  minutes.  Stir  in,  just  before  you  take  it  up,  a  small 
piece  of  butter. 

BRITANNIA.  There  being  both  lead  and  copper  in 
this  metal,  when  used  for  teapots  it  should  be  nicely  scalded, 
wiped  dry,  and  the  cover  left  open  on  being  set  away  in  the 


96  BROILING. 

closet.  The  outside  is  cleansed  with  a  paste  made  of  rotten- 
stone  and  oil,  applied  with  a  flannel  rag,  washed  off  with  a 
suds  made  of  white  soap,  then  wiped  dry,  and  polished  with 
whiting,  applied  with  wash-leather  or  soft- linen. 

BROCCOLI.  This  vegetable  is  cooked  much  in  the 
same  way  as  cauliflower.  See  Cauliflower. 

BROILING.  The  fire  should  be  burned  down  into 
clear  coals,  free  from  smoke,  when  the  delicate  task  of  broil- 
ing is  undertaken.  Before  the  gridiron  goes  over,  sprinkle 
a  little  salt  on  the  coals.  Beef-steaks  are  generally  cut 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  In  broiling  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  turning  the  steak  that  the  juices  may  remain  in. 
Steak-tongs  are  convenient  for  turning ;  where  a  fork  is 
used,  it  should  be  placed  in  the  fatty  portions  to  turn  the 
meat.  Remove  the  meat  when  the  fat  catches  till  the  blaze 
is  out. 

The  gridiron,  %both  on  the  upper  and  lower  side,  should 
be  kept  scrupulously  clean.  Before  a  steak  is  put  on,  the 
gridiron  should  be  heated  for  about  five  minutes,  or  till 
quite  hot,  and  rubbed  with  beef-suet  for  meat,  and  with 
chalk  when  fish  is  to  be  broiled.  It  is  well  to  have  one 
gridiron  for  meat  and  poultry,  and  another  for  fish.  Double 
gridirons  are  kept  closed  till  the  steak  is  done.  A  beef- 
steak three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick  takes  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  minutes  to  cook.  Sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
over  as  you  put  it  down.  When  done,  have  the  dish  hot 
you  put  it  into,  but  not  so  hot  as  to  dry  the  gravy.  Put 
bits  of  butter  into  the  dish.  The  best  of  beef-steak  requires 
•no  catchup. 

Kidneys  when  broiled  should  be  skewered,  to  prevent  their 
turning  with  heat,  as  must  also  chickens  and  pigeons,  and 
be  taken  off  occasionally  and  rubbed  with  butter  tied  in 


BUCKWHEAT.  97 

a  muslin  bag,  and  when  dished,  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
pepper. 

Veal  and  lamb  cutlets  should  be  cut  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  may  be  dipped  in  egg  and  bread-crumbs. 

Mutton-chops  are  broiled  much  as  beef-steaks,  excepting 
that  mushroom  sauce  is  often  used. 

Pork -steaks  are  not  cut  so  thick  as  beef  or  mutton,  and 
they  take  longer  time  in  cooking,  and  require  a  hot  fire. 
They  may,  previously  to  going  on  to  the  gridiron,  be  rubbed 
with  pulverized  sage,  pepper,  and  salt. 

BUCKTHORN  (Rhamnus  catharticus).  The  shrub  used 
for  hedge-rows.  The  juice  of  the  unripe  berries  yields  the 
color  known  as  sap-green,  used  principally  in  water-colors. 

BUCKWHEAT.  This  plant,  says  Professor  Low,  be- 
longs to  a  family,  the  PoJygonece  or  Dock  tribe,  which  is 
known  to  farmers  as  affording  a  class  of  common  weeds. 

Of  the  genus  Polygonum  there  are  two  species  cultivated 
in  Europe  for  their  seeds  :  — 

1.  Common  Buckwheat,  Polygonum  Fagopyrum. 

2.  Tartarian  Buckwheat,  Polygonum  tataricum. 

The  first  is  the  species  commonly  cultivated.  The  latter 
is  of  larger  growth,  and  is  said  to  be  more  hardy ;  but  it 
is  less  productive  of  seeds  than  the  Common  Buckwheat. 
A  third  species  is  cultivated  in  China  and  Chinese  Tartary, 
Notch-seeded  Buckwheat,  Polygonum  emarginatum,  which 
resembles  the  Common  Buckwheat  in  its  habit  of  growth. 
All  these  species  are  annual. 

Common  Buckwheat  bears  white  flowers,  tinged  with  red. 
Its  stem  is  full  of  knots,  and  rises  to  the  height  of  two  feet 
or  more.  The  plant  is  of  rapid  growth,  continues  to  flower 
long,  and  bears  at  the  same  time  flowers  and  ripened  seeds. 
(Elements  of  Agriculture.) 
9 


98  BUCKWHEAT. 

On  account  of  an  increasing  demand  for  this  grain,  it  is 
much  more  cultivated  in  the  United  States  than  formerly. 
In  some  of  the  Western  States  the  yield  per  acre  has  been 
stated  as  reaching  twenty-five,  thirty,  and  even  fifty  bushels. 
In  New  England  it  is  often  cultivated  successfully.  It  grows 
best  on  the  lighter  soils.  Birds  are  apt  to  attack  Buck- 
wheat, and  the  young  plants  are  sometimes  injured  by  frost. 
The  seeds  of  the  Buckwheat  are  given  to  horses,  to  hogs, 
and  to  poultry. 

In  the  United  States  its  use  as  a  breadstuff  is  almost 
entirely  limited  to  cakes. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

Take  a  quart  of  warm  water,  (milk,  if  to  be  had,  is  better,) 
put  a  little  salt  to  it,  and  stir  irt  enough  buckwheat  flour  to 
make  a  thin  batter.  After  it  is  smoothly  mixed,  add  six 
table-spoonfuls  of  home  yeast,  or  half  this  quantity  of  brew- 
er's yeast.  Set  this  batter  where  it  will  be  kept  a  little 
warm  over  night  In  the  morning  stir  in  about  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  soda  or  saleratus,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  sirup 
or  molasses.  Put  them  ip  just  before  the  griddle  is  ready 
for  the  batter.  The  molasses  is  thought  to  make  the  cakes 
fry  a  delicate  brown,  and  to  crisp  the  edges. 

The  griddle  should  be  merely  greased  enough  to  keep  the 
cakes  from  sticking ;  a  bit  of  white  rag  is  sometimes  tied 
on  a  fork,  and  from  time  to  time  wet  with  a  little  lard,  or 
the  griddle  may  be  rubbed  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork.  Buck- 
wheat cakes  should  be  made  very  thin,  and  served  in  the 
course  of  the  meal,  from  time  to  time,  hot  from  the  griddle. 

These  cakes  are  sometimes  mixed  without  yeast,  where 
they  are  wanted  before  the  batter  could  rise.  In  such  cases 
you  dissolve  in  warm  water  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of 
soda,  and  stir  it  in  the  batter ;  then  dissolve  in  warm  water 
a  teaspoonful  of  tartaric  acid,  and  stir  this  in  also.  You 


BUDDING.  99 

may  use  a  quart  of  warm  water  or  milk  to  make  the  cakes 
by  this  receipt. 

BUDDING.  The  practice  of  inserting  buds  into  trees 
is  a  more  common  way  of  grafting  than  any  other  method 
adopted  in  the  United  States.  Its  chief  advantages  are  the 
rapidity  with  which  it  can  be  performed,  the  length  of  time 
in  which  it  can  safely  be  undertaken,  and  the  harmlessness  of 
the  trial,  which,  if  the  budding  fails,  can  be  repeated  on  the 
same  stock  without  any  detriment. 

Budding  is  particularly  preferred  for  stone  fruit,  such 
as  Peaches  and  Apricots,  which  are  more  easily  budded 
than  grafted.  The  operation  is  performed  from  the  first  of 
July  to  the  middle  of  September,  when  the  bark  of  the  stock 
slips  up  or  separates  readily  from  the  wood,  and  the  buds 
of  the  current  year's  growth  are'  a  little  plump,  and  the 
young  wood  is  growing  healthily.  A  budding-knife  is  used. 
This  knife  is  about  four  and  a  half  inches  long,  has  a  round 
blade,  and  an  ivory  handle  finished  at  the  end  with  a  thin, 
rounded  edge,  called  the  haft.  This  knife  must  be  kept 
very  sharp.  A  substitute  for  the  knife  is  sometimes  found 
by  cutting  a  piece  of  hard  wood  into  a  thin  taper  form. 

Previous  to  budding,  what  is  technically  called  a  stick  of 
buds  is  selected,  that  is,  taking  a  cutting  from  a  healthy  tree, 
clipping  off  imperfect  buds  at  the  lower  end,  and  such  as 
may  be  young  and  immature  at  the  upper  end,  leaving 
firm,  healthy  single  buds,  double  buds  being  fruit-buds. 
Trim  off  the  leaves,  but  not  too  closely,  for  the  footstalks 
are  convenient  in  handling  the  buds.  Have  pieces  of  soft 
matting  or  yarn  ready  to  tie  round  the  buds.  Bass  matting, 
soaked  in  water  till  flexible,  is  often  used. 

Shield  or  T  budding  is  the  method  generally  practised. 
This  consists  in  making  a  cut  through  the  bark  with  your 
budding-knife  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  at 


100  BUDDING. 

the  top  of  this  making  a  cross  cut,  so  that  the  incisions  form 
a  T.  Now  cut  very  carefully  from  your  stick  of  buds  a 
smooth,  thin  bit  of  wood  and  bark  containing  a  bud.  In- 
sert this  bud  to  the  bottom  of  the  incision,  under  the  bark. 
If  on  being  pushed  gently,  as  directed,  the  bud  projects 
above  the  horizontal  slit,  trim  it  carefully  to  make  it  fit. 
Bandage  it  carefully  with  soft  matting,  leaving  only  the  bud 
and  the  footstalk  of  the  leaf  exposed  to  the  light. 

If  the  bud  takes,  in  about  two  weeks  there  will  be  a 
plumpness  that  will  indicate  the  union  of  the  bud  with  the 
stock ;  if  it  has,  however,  failed,  provided  the  bark  peels 
readily,  a  fresh  trial  may  be  made.  In  about  a  fortnight, 
if  the  operation  have  been  perfected,  the  bandage  may  be 
loosened,  and  if  the  stock  has  swelled  much,  it  may  be 
removed  entirely,  though,  where  the  budding  is  performed 
late  in  the  season,  the  bandage  is  sometimes  left  on  for  the 
winter. 

In  the  following  spring,  the  buds  having  swollen,  the  stock 
is  headed  down  with  a  sloping  back  within  two  or  three 
inches  of  the  bud,  and  the  shoots  of  the  stock,  or  "  rob- 
bers," as  they  are  styled,  must  be  removed  from  time  to 
time.  (Downing's  Fruits  and  Fruit-trees  of  America.) 

The  same  excellent  authority  from  whom  we  take  the 
above  also  remarks,  that,  to  secure  the  upright  growth  of 
the  bud,  and  to  prevent  its  being  broken  by  the  winds,  it  is 
tied  when  a  few  inches  long  to  that  portion  of  the  stock  left 
for  the  purpose,  removing  this  support  in  midsummer  when 
the  shoot  appears  strong,  and  cutting  away  the  superfluous 
portion  of  the  stock,  which  will  be  rapidly  covered  with 
young  bark  after  being  thus  smoothly  trimmed. 

Mr.  Knights's  mode  of  tying  with  two  distinct  bandages  is 
also  recommended  by  Mr.  Downing,  one  covering  the  part 
below  the  bud,  and  the  other  the  portion  above  it.  In  this 
case,  Mr.  Downing  has  said,  "  the  lower  bandage  is  removed 


BUNNS.  101 

as  soon  as  the  bud  has  taken,  and  the  upper  left  for  two  or 
three  weeks  longer.  This,  by  arresting  the  upward  sap, 
completes  the  union  of  the  upper  portion  or  bud,  (which  in 
%  Plums  frequently  dies,  while  the  lower  part  is  united,)  and 
secures  success." 

BUFFALO-BEERY,  OR  SHEPHERDIA.  This  shrub, 
with  its  beautiful  silvery  leaves,  bears  a  small  berry,  which 
makes  a  good  preserve.  The  trees  are  male  and  female,  and 
are  set  in  pairs  from  six  to  ten  or  fifteen  feet  apart.  (Cole's 
American  Fruit  Book.) 

BUNNS.  These  cakes  are  thought  to  have  the  sanction 
of  antiquity,  being  named  from  a  kind  of  sweet,  light  cake 
offered  to  the  gods,  and  called  Bonn.  Leaving  such  investi- 
gations to  the  curious,  we  would  only  remark  that  the  term 
Cross-bunns  is  said  to  owe  its  origin  to  the  habit  which  once 
prevailed  in  England,  of  marking  this  cake,  when  baked  on 
Good  Friday,  with  the  sacred  symbol  of  the  Cross. 

Common  bunns  are  made  of  a  light,  sweetened  dough, 
risen  by  yeast  and  warm  milk.  After  it  is  risen,  a  little 
melted  butter  and  warm  milk  is  added,  the  dough  is  dusted 
with  flour,  and  allowed  to  rise  for  half  an  hour,  when  it  is 
shaped  into  small  cakes,  put  on  to  buttered  tins,  and  allowed 
to  rise  for  another  half-hour.  Glaze  them  with  white  of  egg 
and  put  them  into  a  quick  oven.  You  may,  if  you  please, 
stir  well-cleaned  Zante  currants  into  the  dough. 
.  The  following  receipt  is  a  very  good  one  for  making  these 
cakes :  — 

Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  beaten  to  a  light  creamy  consistency,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  white  sifted  sugar,  one  half-pint  of  new  milk, 
one  wineglass  of  fresh  yeast,  three  eggs  beaten  very  lightly, 
one  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mace,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg 
9* 


102  BURNS. 

mixed  together,  one  .wineglass  of  brandy,  wine,  and  rose- 
water  stirred  together. 

Stir  the  spice  into  the  butter,  then  add  the  flour  and 
sugar,  stirring  them  in  alternately  with  the  well-beaten  eggs. 
Add  the  wineglass  of  brandy,  wine,  and  rose-water,  and  last- 
ly, stir  in  the  half-pint  of  milk,  to  be  followed  immediately 
by  the  wineglass  of  fresh  yeast.  When  risen,  bake  in  but- 
tered tins,  moulding  the  dough  into  the  bunn  form,  and  glaz- 
ing with  sugar  and  white  of  egg. 

BURNS.  To  keep  the  air  from  the  burn  or  scald,  cover 
immediately  with  cotton-batting,  and  then  pour  over  the  cot- 
ton sweet  olive-oil.  If  the  accident  is  serious,  administer  a 
gentle  cathartic,  and  keep  the  diet  low,  unless  there  is  weak- 
ness and  sinking,  when  wine  and  a  teaspoonful  of  tincture  of 
Peruvian  bark  may  be  given  from  time  to  time. 

Spirits  of  turpentine  is  sometimes  applied,  but  it  is  too 
powerful  a  stimulant  for  most  persons.  I  have  known  of 
flour  being  put  over  the  skin  of  a  child  who  had  received  a 
severe  scald.  It  is  light  and  excludes  the  air. 

For  cooling  applications,  pounded  ice  put  in  a  flat  bag  of 
thin  oil-silk  or  tied  in  a  bladder,  and  lime-water  mixed  with 
the  same  quantity  of  linseed-oil,  are  exceedingly  grateful,  the 
latter  being  put  on  with  a  very  soft  sponge  or  linen  rag, 
bathing  the  affected  skin  gently,  without  rubbing.  Where 
the  weight  of  it  can  be  supported,  a  fine  Indian-meal  poultice 
can  be  made,  with  hyson  tea  thrown  over  it,  pouring  on  hot 
water  enough  to  moisten  and  soften  the  leaves.  Renew  the 
poultice  when  dry  by  a  fresh  one  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Vinegar  will  sometimes  relieve  the  pain  of  a  burnt  and  a 
solution  of  sugar  of  lead  applied  with  a  soft  sponge  or  rag  to 
the  injured  parts  is  sometimes  beneficial. 

BUTTER.     This  substance  is  made  by  churning  cream 


BUTTER.  103 

alone,  or  by  churning  the  milk  and  cream  together.  Taking 
it  for  granted  that  the  milk-dishes  are  kept  religiously  clean, 
and  scalded  as  soon  as  the  milk  is  removed  with  boiling  water, 
that  the  milk  is  taken  from  a  healthy,  well-fed  cow,  and  is 
not  impregnated  with  garlic  or  turnip  flavor,  we  proceed  at 
once  to  the  operation  of  making  butter. 

Cream  makes  the  richest  butter,  though  of  course  the 
larger  quantity  is  obtained  when  the  milk  is  also  used.  Milk 
may  be  skimmed  after  standing  undisturbed  in  the  milk-room 
twenty-four,  and  in  cool  weather  thirty  hours.  Put  it  in  a 
stone  vessel  until  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cream  is  collected 
to  churn.  Milk-pans  should  be  of  tin,  the  enamel  of  earthen- 
ware often  containing  poisonous  matters,  whose  properties  are 
disengaged  by  the  acid  of  milk. 

Many  experiments  have  been  instituted,  particularly  in 
England  and  Scotland,  by  both  practical  and  learned  socie- 
ties and  individuals,  to  demonstrate  the  desirable  temperature 
of  cream  to  bring  butter  of  the  best  quality  and  greatest 
quantity.  Accepting  the  results  of  these  experiments,  we 
find  that  butter  produced  from  cream  at  a  low  temperature 
is  superior  both  in  quality  and  quantity ;  that,  put  into  the 
churn  at  52°,  it  may  be  raised  to  60°  before  the  operation  is 
finished,  but  on  no  account  can,  with  impunity,  exceed  65°  ; 
and  that  60°  is  the  desirable  mean,  while  if  it  be  under  50° 
the  labor  will  be  increased  without  any  proportional  benefit 
being  reaped. 

When  the  butter  has  gathered,  put  it  into  cold  water,  and 
beat  it  with  the  hand  or  a  wooden  butter-spaddle  until  the 
buttermilk  is  entirely  out,  and  the  water  freshly  poured  over 
comes  off  colorless.  When  the  buttermilk  is  thus  worked 
out,  take  half  the  salt  you  intend  to  use  for  your  butter,  and 
work  it  in  with  your  hand,  keeping  your  hand  cool  by  dip- 
ping it  in*ice-water  or  very  cold  water.  Salt  should  be  thor- 
oughly incorporated  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  relieved  of  but- 


104  CABBAGE. 

termilk,  andean  be  best  worked  in  by  the  hand.  Let  it  stand 
covered  closely  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  work  in  your  in- 
gredients for  final  seasoning.  For  many  years  I  have  used 
one  ounce  of  the  following  mixture  for  every  pound  of  butter, 
taking  half  of  the  salt  out,  and  applying  it  as  above.  Two 
ounces  of  the  purest  salt  (Bay  salt  is  best),  one  ounce  of 
loaf-sugar,  a  little  less  than  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
saltpetre,  pounded  very  fine,  and  worked  in  with  the  hand. 
Summer  butter  requires  more  salt  than  butter  made  late  in 
autumn.  The  firkin  in  which  butter  is  to  be  packed  should 
be  of  sweet  wood,  or  unglazed  stone-ware  may  be  used.  Lay 
salt  basted  in  thin  muslin  over  the  butter  after  it  is  packed 
down  very  hard. 

I  shall  conclude  my  remarks  on  this  important  subject  by 
quoting  the  following  from  Johnson's  Farmer's  Encyclopaedia 
on  the  manner  of  making  butter  in  Devonshire,  England  :  — 
"  In  Devonshire  the  method  of  making  is  peculiar  to  the 
county.  The  milk  is  placed  in  tin  or  earthen  pans  (each 
holding  about  eleven  or  twelve  quarts),  and  placed  on  an 
iron  plate  over  a  small  furnace.  The  milk  is  not  boiled,  but 
heated  until  a  thick  scum  arises  to  the  surface ;  if,  when  a 
small  portion  of  this  is  removed,  bubbles  appear,  the  milk  is 
removed,  and  suffered  to  cool.  The  thick  part  is  then  taken 
off  the  surface,  and  this  is  the  clouted  cream  of  Devonshire, 
which  is  known  all  over  England.  By  a  gentle  agitation 
this  clouted  cream  is  speedily  converted  into  butter." 

CABBAGE.  This  vegetable  requires  a  great  deal  of 
washing  and  soaking,  for  in  its  close  leaves  are  often  con- 
cealed insects  which  have  assumed  the  color  of  the  leaves 
they  feed  on.  Put  salt  in  the  water  it  is  soaked  in,  and  let 
the  cabbage  remain  soaking  some  hours  before  cooking. 
When  it  goes  into  the  pot,  drain  this  water  off,  and  fill  up 
with  fresh  water  in  which  is  a  little  salt  and  a  small  piece  of 


CAKE.  105 

soda.  Skim  it  well,  and  when  about  half  cooked  pour  off 
the  water,  take  the  cabbage  out,  and  put  it  in  cold  water.  If 
corned  beef  or  pork  is  being  boiled,  fill  the  pot  half  full  of  the 
pot-liquor,  return  the  cabbage,  and  fill  up  with  water.  Boil 
till  tender.  If  there  is  no  pot-liquor,  or  there  is  an  objection 
to  its  use,  fill  the  pot  with  cold  water ;  when  the  cabbage  is 
tender,  take  it  out,  drain  and  press  it  well,  but  do  not  break, 
and  put  bits  of  fresh  butter  on  it. 

Cabbages,  like  onions  and  water-cresses,  have  a  bitter 
property,  which  is  subdued  by  soaking  in  large  quantities  of 
water,  and  boiling  with  the  same  liberal  measure  of  liquid. 

Red  cabbage  is  used  for  pickling,  and  for  winter  salads. 

STEWED  CABBAGE. 

Cabbage  which  is  left  from  dinner  can  be  cut  in  slices, 
simmered  in  a  little  milk  and  water,  drained,  put  into  a  ket- 
tle with  a  little  butter  or  suet,  clarified  drippings,  pepper  and 
salt,  heated,  and  browned,  care  being  used  that  it  does  not 
burn.  Stir  into  afcpint  of  hot  water  a  little  piece  of  fresh 
butter,  well  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  little 
cream  if  you  have  it,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  the  cabbage. 
Let  it  simmer  tea  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

CAKE.  For  superior  kinds  of  cake,  the  best  of  every- 
thing must  be  used,  the  flour  sifted,  the  sugar  pounded  or 
rolled  fine  and  sifted  also,  and  the  butter  have  the  salt  washed 
from  it  in  cold  water  and  be  pressed  dry.  Nutmeg  is  al- 
ways lighter  grated,  but  other  spices  must  be  pounded  fine. 

A  hickory  spatula  should  be  used  for  working  the  butter 
and  sugar  to  a  creamy  consistency,  though  in  cold  weather 
many  nice  cooks  use  the  hand.  Beat  the  eggs  when  every 
other  preparation  has  been  made.  Rods  or  egg-whisks  are 
considered  preferable  to  anything  else  for  beating  eggs. 
Break  each  egg  in  a  saucer  by  itself. 


106  CAKE. 

The  following  receipt  was  given  to  me  by  a  relative  of 
the  Washington  family,  Mrs.  T.  L.  of  Washington  city,  who 
told  me  it  was  a  favorite  cake  of  the  General,  and  made 
generally  once  a  week  in  his  family. 

WASHINGTON  CAKE. 

One  pound  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  half-pound  of 
butter,  one  half-pint  of  cream,  five  eggs,  one  glass  of  brandy, 
a  little  mace,  one  teaspoonful  of  pearlash  dissolved  in  cream, 
to  be  added  when  the  other  ingredients  are  well  mixed. 
Bake  in  small  tins. 

Take  first  your  butter  and  cream  it,  then  add  your  sugar, 
then  your  well-beaten  eggs,  your  flour  next,  then  your  pearl- 
ash.  Do  not  fill  your  pans  too  full,  as  it  will  rise  very 
much. 

WEDDING  CAKE. 

Four  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour,  four  and  a  half  pounds 
of  butter,  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half 
pounds  of  stoned  box-raisins,  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  citron, 
six  and  a  half  pounds  of  currants,  twenty-two  eggs ;  one 
half-ounce  of  mace,  one  half-ounce  of  cloves,  one  half-ounce 
of  cinnamon  ;  one  gill  of  wine,  one  half-gill  of  brandy,  one 
half-gill  of  rose-water,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  salera- 
tus,  one  table-spoonful  of  molasses. 

POUND  CAKE. 

Beat  a  pound  of  sugar  and  one  of  butter  together  to  a 
cream,  adding  gradually  to  it,  while  beating,  the  strained  juice 
of  a  lemon.  Beat  seven  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  sepa- 
rately, to  a  froth,  and  add  them,  then  take  a  handful  from  a 
pound  of  sifted  flour  and  stir  in  the  remainder  of  the  pound  ; 
add  the  grate  of  two  nutmegs,  or  sift  in  a  blade  or  two  of 
pounded  mace. 


CAKE  107 

Pound  cake  is  best  baked  in  pans  which  have  a  tube  in 
the  centre,  or  small  tin  pans.  Butter  the  pans  well.  If  the 
pan  is  large,  the  cake  will  take  three  or  four  hours  of  un- 
broken but  moderate  heat. 

SPONGE  CAKE. 

Ten  eggs,  the  weight  of  ten  eggs  in  sugar,  the  weight  of 
six  eggs  in  flour,  the  grate  and  the  strained  juice  of  one 
lemon.  Break  the  eggs  over  the  sifted  sugar,  beat  them  till 
it  is  quite  light,  and  rises  in  the  pan ;  beat  the  flavoring 
in,  and  just  before  it  goes  to  the  oven  stir  in  very  gently  the 
sifted  flour.  Have  the  pan  buttered.  Tin  pans  with  divis- 
ions of  oblong  squares  are  the  nicest  for  sponge  cake.  Bake 
quickly  in  a  brisk  oven. 

JELLY  CAKE. 

These  cakes  may  be  made  of  rich  cup-cake,  but  the  nicer 
kinds  are  made  much  as  pound  cake,  only  more  eggs  are 
used. 

Work  into  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  the  same  quantity  of 
sifted  sugar,  the  grate  of  a  nutmeg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
rose-water.  Beat  twelve  eggs  very  lightly,  and  once  stir  them 
into  the  butter  and  sugar,  a  little  at  a  time,  with  a  pound  of 
sifted  flour.  Butter  flat  tin  plates  or  dinner-plates,  and  pour 
enough  batter  in  to  cover  the  bottom.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  without  turning.  When  they  come  from  the  oven,  take 
them  out,  and  let  them  cool,  but  before  they  are  cold,  spread 
gooseberry  jam,  or  some  piquant  fruit  preserve,  between  each 
cake.  You  may  make  pies  of  them,  that  is,  put  only  two 
cakes  together,  or  you  may  pile  them  up,  and  trim  the  edges 
and  ice  it  as  one  large  cake. 

COMPOSITION  CAKE. 
Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  one  pound 


108  CAKE. 

of  sifted  sugar,  one  pound  and  three  quarters  of  flour,  one 
table-spoonful  of  pearlash,  five  eggs,  one  glass  of  wine,  one 
of  brandy,  one  pound  of  stoned  raisins,  one  nutmeg,  a  small 
spoonful  of  sifted  mace  and  cinnamon  mixed.  Beat  the  but- 
ter and  sugar  together  with  the  spice,  then  add  the  well- 
beaten  eggs ;  take  out  a  little  of  the  flour  to  dust  on  the  rai- 
sins, then  stir  in  the  remainder,  add  the  wine  and  brandy 
and  the  smoothly  ground  pearlash  ;  add  then  the  raisins 
dusted  with  flour.  Bake  in  buttered  tin  pans.  See  Almond 
Cake. 

SuGAR-GlNGERBREAD. 

Five  eggs,  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  sugar,  three  quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  pounds  of  flour,  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  of  even  fulness,  of  ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  pearl- 
ash or  soda. 

Wash  the  butter  and  press  it  dry,  sift  the  sugar  and  work 
them  together ;  when  well  mixed,  beat  the  eggs  till  light,  and 
stir  them  in  with  the  flour.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  cup  of 
cream  or  wine,  and  add  it.  Flour  your  paste-board,  and 
lay  the  gingerbread  on  it.  Divide  it  into  two  pieces,  rolling 
each  piece  out  in  turn.  Flour  two  large  tin  sheets,  and  lay 
the  rolled  pieces  on,  trimming  the  edges,  and  with  a  knife 
dipped  in  flour  mark  the  surface  through  the  centre  length- 
wise and  then  across  into  bars.  This  cake  should  be  worked 
with  the  hand.  You  may  dissolve  the  soda,  if  more  con- 
venient, in  a  cup  of  warm  milk,  instead  of  cream ;  this  last, 
if  over  rich,  will  make  the  cake  too  short. 

MOLASSES-GlNGERBREAD. 

Dissolve  in  a  pint  of  molasses  a  cup  of  butter,  putting  over 
the  butter  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  ginger.  Let  it  get 
warm  near  the  fire.  Put  into  two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  soda.  Beat  four  eggs  till  light. 


CALICO.  109 

Take  the  molasses  up,  and  stir  in  the  milk  and  eggs,  and 
flour  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter,  of  the  consistency  of 
pound  cake.  Bake  in  tin  pans  immediately. 

CALICO.  Fast  colors  in  calicoes  are  thickened  with 
gum  or  calcined  starch,  while  fugitive  colors  are  thickened 
with  gum  tragacanth.  which  leaves  the  cloth  in  a  softer  state 
than  gum  Senegal,  the  goods  being  sometimes  sent  to  market 
without  being  washed.  (Bigelow.) 

Calicoes,  if  possible,  should  only  be  washed  on  a  dry  day, 
and  always  by  themselves,  in  suds  prepared  with  ox-gall  soap, 
or  of  hard  soap,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  ox-gall  added.  Soap 
should  only  be  applied  through  the  agency  of  the  suds. 
Wash  quickly  from  these  prepared  suds  into  another  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way,  having  both  waters  only  milk-warm. 
Rinse  out  the  soap  in  pure  water,  then  quickly  pass  them 
into  a  second  rinsing  water,  into  which  has  been  put  a  hand- 
ful of  salt,  or,  what  is  better,  a  few  drops  of  oil  of  vitriol,  to 
set  and  brighten  the  colors,  and  some  weak  starch-water; 
and  if  there  is  no  blueing  in  the  starch,  pass  the  indigo-bag 
once  or  twice  rapidly  through  the  water.  Do  not  allow  them 
to  remain  in  any  of  the  waters.  Wring  them  out,  and  hang 
them  on  the  wrong  side  in  a  shady  place.  Calicoes  should 
never  be  frozen;  it  injures  their  colors.  Dry  them  in  the 
house,  if  necessary,  to  avoid  such  an  accident. 

Water  in  which  potatoes  have  been  sliced  and  boiled  is 
often  strained  and  saved  for  the  purpose  of  making  suds  for 
calicoes. 

Rice-water,  and  wheat-bran  water,  strained  from  these 
substances,  is  often  successfully  used. 

Dark  and  mourning  calicoes  are  washed  in  the  same  man- 
ner, that  is,  with  warm  soap-suds  and  ox-gall ;  but  the  starch 
is  prepared  with  colored  water,  sometimes  with  coffee,  to  avoid 
the  whitened  look  that  starch  sometimes  gives  dark  calicoes. 
10 


110  CANDLES. 

Alum  in  small  quantities  is  sometimes  put  into  rinsing- 
water  where  the  colors  of  the  calico  are  mostly  green  ;  where 
they  are  red,  pink,  and  green,  vinegar  or  pyroligneous  acid 
may  be  used.  Strong  vinegar  or  too  much  oil  of  vitriol  is 
injurious. 

Ox-gall  put  into  a  bottle  with  a  little  salt,  and  closely  cov- 
ered, will  keep  several  months. 

Calicoes  should  be  ironed  the  same  day,  if  possible,  that 
they  are  washed,  to  prevent  {he  colors  from  running.  Do 
not  use  a  very  hot  iron,  and  press  them  as  far  as  possible  on 
the  wrong  side. 

CAMPHORATED  SPIRIT.  Break  gum  camphor  in- 
to bits,  till  you  have  half  filled  a  bottle,  then  pour  in  alcohol. 
A  few  drops  poured  into  a  wineglass  of  water  sometimes  re- 
lieve faintness.  If  for  external  application,  you  may  fill  the 
bottle  with  the  best  olive-oil,  or  Jamaica  rum  or  whiskey. 

CANDLES.  Home-made  candles  are  composed  of  ox- 
tallow  and  mutton-suet,  either  employed  separately,  or  in 
equal  parts.  Tallow  being  more  fusible  than  wax  or  sper- 
maceti, candles  made  of  this  material  require  larger  sticks. 
The  cotton  wicking  is  purchased  in  large  balls.  It  is  well, 
in  making  candles,  to  boil  in  vinegar  as  much  wicking  as 
will  be  used,  taking  care  to  dry  it  thoroughly.  It  prevents 
the  emission  of  odor  while  the  candle  is  burning. 

When  the  fat  is  rendered,  strain  it  close  to  the  fire,  and 
pour  it  while  it  is  hot  into  the  moulds,  which  should  be  pre- 
viously prepared,  with  wicking  secured  at  one  end  with 
small  wooden  pegs,  and  at  the  other  fastened  with  loops 
through  which  are  slipped  bits  of  coarse  iron  wire.  The 
pegs  should  be,  with  the  wicking,  so  placed  as  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  the  grease.  ,  Have  the  wicks  placed  exactly 
in  the  centre  of  each  tube,  and  fastened  tightly  on  to  the 


CARPETS.  Ill 

wire.  Pat  them  oat  doors  where  they  will  cool  and  become 
firm.  Do  not  pull  them  too  early,  and  before  attempting 
the  drawing  of  them,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and  draw 
slowly.  Put  them  in  a  cold  place,  and  do  not  use  them  for 
some  nights.  They  burn  more  economically  if  allowed  to 
harden. 

The  shavings  of  spermaceti  candles  should  be  saved  for 
the  laundry  ;  they  give  a  polish  to  starch  used  for  linen,  and 
are  nice  to  rub  the  iron  over  to  prevent  the  starch  from 
sticking. 

Cut-glass  candle-receivers,  put  on  top  of  the  candlestick 
for  the  candle  to  pass  through,  are  pretty  and  useful  articles, 
as  they  save  wax  from  passing  on  to  the  furniture. 

CARPETS.  Where  the  figure  of  a  carpet  is  small,  the 
two  webs  of  which  it  is  composed  are  more  closely  interwo- 
ven ;  and  besides,  as  a  mere  matter  of  taste,  large  figures  are 
fast  being  resigned  to  steamboat  upholstery.  Colors  are 
chosen  with  reference  to  their  harmonious  toning,  to  borrow 
an  artist's  phrase,  with  the  rest  of  the  furniture  ;  thus,  if  the 
chairs,  papering,  and  sofas  of  a  room  are  green,  it  is  desirable 
that  the  ground-work  of  the  carpet  should  be  of  the  same 
color,  relieved  by  some  small  figure.  "White  should  be 
avoided,  as  it  soon  looks  soiled. 

Wilton  carpets,  though  extremely  elegant,  are  miserable 
to  wear,  a  large  part  of  the  material  following  the  broom  on 
the  first  sweeping.  Turkey  rarpets,  which  are  made  in  one 
square  piece  without  seam,  are  rarely  used  now  in  the  United 
States.  They  are  swept  with  little  success,  and  are  so 
heavy  that  it  requires  half  a  score  of  men  to  shake  one. 

The  Tournay,  Brussels,  and  Saxony,  among  expensive 
carpets,  are  the  most  useful. 

The  striped  Venetian  carpets  (used  almost  entirely  for 
stairs  and  halls),  the  Kidderminster,  and  Imperial  carpets 
are  double-sided,  and  may  be  put  down  either  side  up. 


110  CANDLES. 

Alum  in  small  quantities  is  sometimes  put  into  rinsing- 
water  where  the  colors  of  the  calico  are  mostly  green  ;  where 
they  are  red,  pink,  and  green,  vinegar  or  pyroligneous  acid 
may  be  used.  Strong  vinegar  or  too  much  oil  of  vitriol  is 
injurious. 

Ox-gall  put  into  a  bottle  Avith  a  little  salt,  and  closely  cov- 
ered, will  keep  several  months. 

Calicoes  should  be  ironed  the  same  day,  if  possible,  that 
they  are  washed,  to  prevent  the  colors  from  running.  Do 
not  use  a  very  hot  iron,  and  press  them  as  far  as  possible  on 
the  wrong  side. 

CAMPHORATED  SPIRIT.  Break  gum  camphor  in- 
to bits,  till  you  have  half  filled  a  bottle,  then  pour  in  alcohol. 
A  few  drops  poured  into  a  wineglass  of  water  sometimes  re- 
lieve faintness.  If  for  external  application,  you  may  fill  the 
bottle  with  the  best  olive-oil,  or  Jamaica  rum  or  whiskey. 

CANDLES.  Home-made  candles  are  composed  of  ox- 
tallow  and  mutton-suet,  either  employed  separately,  or  in 
equal  parts.  Tallow  being  more  fusible  than  wax  or  sper- 
maceti, candles  made  of  this  material  require  larger  sticks. 
The  cotton  wicking  is  purchased  in  large  balls.  It  is  well, 
in  making  candles,  to  boil  in  vinegar  as  much  wicking  as 
will  be  used,  taking  care  to  dry  it  thoroughly.  It  prevents 
the  emission  of  odor  while  the  candle  is  burning. 

When  the  fat  is  rendered,  strain  it  close  to  the  fire,  and 
pour  it  while  it  is  hot  into  the  moulds,  which  should  be  pre- 
viously prepared,  with  wicking  secured  at  one  end  with 
small  wooden  pegs,  and  at  the  other  fastened  with  loops 
through  which  are  slipped  bits  of  coarse  iron  wire.  The 
pegs  should  be,  with  the  wicking,  so  placed  as  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  the  grease.  Have  the  wicks  placed  exactly 
in  the  centre  of  each  tube,  and  fastened  tightly  on  to  the 


CARPETS.  Ill 

wire.  Put  them  out  doors  where  they  will  cool  and  become 
firm.  Do  not  pull  them  too  early,  and  before  attempting 
the  drawing  of  them,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and  draw 
slowly.  Put  them  in  a  cold  place,  and  do  not  use  them  for 
some  nights.  They  burn  more  economically  if  allowed  to 
harden. 

The  shavings  of  spermaceti  candles  should  be  saved  for 
the  laundry  ;  they  give  a  polish  to  starch  used  for  linen,  and 
are  nice  to  rub  the  iron  over  to  prevent  the  starch  from 
sticking. 

Cut-glass  candle-receivers,  put  on  top  of  the  candlestick 
for  the  candle  to  pass  through,  are  pretty  and  useful  articles, 
as  they  save  wax  from  passing  on  to  the  furniture. 

CARPETS.  Where  the  figure  of  a  carpet  is  small,  the 
two  webs  of  which  it  is  composed  are  more  closely  interwo- 
ven ;  and  besides,  as  a  mere  matter  of  taste,  large  figures  are 
fast  being  resigned  to  steamboat  upholstery.  Colors  are 
chosen  with  reference  to  their  harmonious  toning,  to  borrow 
an  artist's  phrase,  with  the  rest  of  the  furniture  ;  thus,  if  the 
chairs,  papering,  and  sofas  of  a  room  are  green,  it  is  desirable 
that  the  ground-work  of  the  carpet  should  be  of  the  same 
color,  relieved  by  some  small  figure.  White  should  be 
avoided,  as  it  soon  looks  soiled. 

Wilton  carpets,  though  extremely  elegant,  are  miserable 
to  wear,  a  large  part  of  the  material  following  the  broom  on 
the  first  sweeping.  Turkey  carpets,  which  are  made  in  one 
square  piece  without  seam,  are  rarely  used  now  in  the  United 
States.  They  are  swept  with  little  success,  and  are  so 
heavy  that  it  requires  half  a  score  of  men  to  shake  one. 

The  Tournay,  Brussels,  and  Saxony,  among  expensive 
carpets,  are  the  most  useful. 

The  striped  Venetian  carpets  (used  almost  entirely  for 
stairs  and  halls),  the  Kidderminster,  and  Imperial  carpets 
are  double-sided,  and  may  be  put  down  either  side  up. 


112  CARPETS. 

In  making  carpets,  the  strongest  packthread  is  used,  with 
stout  carpet-needles.  The  two  edges  are  brought  together,  so 
as  to  match  the  pattern,  in  every  instance,  exactly,  and  the 
stitches  are  taken  on  the  wrong  side.  In  some  of  the  heavier 
carpets  the  stay-stitch  is  used,  which  consists  in  taking  up  one 
side  at  a  time  alternately,  so  that  the  seam  may  lie  flat ;  and 
where  both  sides  are  taken  at  once,  the  needle  is  passed  first 
toward  the  workwoman,  and  then  pointed  for  the  following 
stitch  from  her.  If  it  gets  fulled  or  puckered,  it  should  be 
picked  out  and  re-sewed.  The  selvages  should  only  meet,  and 
not  be  lapped,  and  the  stitches  should  not  be  drawn  tight. 

Carpet  binding  is  not  so  much  used  as  formerly.  The  car- 
pet now,  after  being  stretched,  is  turned  down  and  tacked  with 
carpet  tacks,  with  bits  of  soft  leather  attached  to  each  tack. 

Printed  carpets,  of  woollen  materials,  are  used  chiefly  for 
druggets,  to  save  more  expensive  carpets,  and  for  dining- 
rooms. 

Oil-cloth  carpets  where  they  can  be  afforded,  are  exceed- 
ingly convenient  for  kitchen  floors. 

Carpets  are  best  cleaned  by  being  thoroughly  shaken,  the 
floors  they  were  taken  from  washed  very  nicely,  and  when 
dry,  the  carpet  returned  to  them,  and  then,  after  being  tacked 
down  and  swept,  to  "  make  assurance  double  sure,"  scrubbed 
with  a  stiff  brush  and  suds  prepared  with  hard  soap  and  ox- 
gall,  renewing  the  suds  frequently,  rinsing  in  the  same  man- 
ner in  clear  water,  in  which  has  been  dropped  a  little  oil  of  vit- 
riol to  fix  and  brighten  the  colors,  and  lastly,  wiped  dry  with 
clean  towels.  The  windows  of  the  rooms  where  carpets  are 
so  cleansed  should  be  left  open,  till  all  dampness  has  left  the 
apartments.  This  is  a  good  time  to  rub  the  edges  of  the 
carpet  with  camphene,  putting  it  on  with  a  rag  or  sponge ; 
the  odor  soon  escapes,  and  the  eggs  of  moths  are  effectually 
killed  by  the  process. 

The  great  objection  to  American  carpeting  is,  that  the 
colors  are  not  fast ;  otherwise,  they  wear  well. 


CARVING.  113 

CARROTS.  This  root,  (the  especial  ally  of  the  dairy,) 
when  prepared  for  the  table,  is  washed,  scraped,  and  boiled  in 
salt  and  water  till  tender.  They  should  be  cut  in  narrow 
strips  lengthwise.  They  are  nice,  browned  in  butter  or  sweet 
fat,  and  thus  sometimes  garnish  beef-stews.  Boiled  plain, 
they  are  served  with  boiled  meats.  A  carrot  cooked  inside 
of  a  duck  will  mitigate  the  fishy,  oily  taste  that  is  often  over- 
strong  in  wild  sea-ducks.  The  carrot  is  always  removed  be- 
fore the  dish  goes  to  table. 

I 

CARVING.  The  principal  points  in  carving  are  to 
serve  all  as  nearly  as  possible  alike,  —  in  order  to  do  this, 
one  must  know  the  delicate  morceaitx  of  every  dish,  —  and 
to  leave  the  dish,  especially  if  it  be  a  large  roasting-piece, 
so  that  its  reappearance  may  be  respectable. 

It  is  a  great  assistance  to  the  carver  to  have  the  meat 
or  fowls  properly  prepared  and  trussed.  The  bones  of  the 
loin  of  mutton  should  always  be  neatly  sawed,  if  not  by  the 
butcher,  then  by  the  cook's  meat-handsaw.  She  should 
do  as  much  for  the  breasts  of  mutton  and  veal,  and  ribs  of 
lamb. 

In  carving  the  sirloin  of  beef,  give  each  person  a  bit  of 
fat,  and  throw  over  the  joint,  and  cut  off  a  piece  of  the  ten- 
der-loin, and  put  a  little  gravy  from  the  dish  on  the  whole. 
A  sirloin  is  cut  at  either  end,  or  in  the  middle. 

Boiled  beef  and  hams,  and  cold  meats  generally,  are  to  be 
cut  very  thin,  and  the  outside  piece  of  boiled  salted  meats  is 
laid  aside. 

Roast  stuffed  veal  is  cut  in  thin  horizontal  slices,  and 
each  guest  served  to  stuffing,  gravy,  and  a  bit  of  boiled 
ham. 

In  carving  roasted  breast  of  veal,  if  a  bone  is  liked, 
give  with  it  a  piece  of  the  breast,  and  a  bit  of  sweet- 
bread. 

10* 


114  CASHMERE. 

Mutton  and  pork  are  cut  thicker  than  other  meats.  A  leg 
of  mutton  is  generally  brought  toward  the  carver,  by  taking 
the  fork  in  the  left  hand,  and  putting  a  prong  through  the 
knuckle  bone,  and  cutting  slices  upward. 

A  goose  is  carved  in  long  thin  breast  slices,  taking  in  as 
much  as  possible  the  length  of  the  fowl.  Many  persons  have 
a  little  wine  gravy  poured  hot  over  the  slices  before  they 
are  served.  Where  the  goose  is  stuffed,  help  to  a  bit  of  the 
stuffing  also.  After  the  slices  are  off,  proceed  to  disjoint  the 
members,  and  cut  the  thigh,  which  is  a  delicate  bit,  from  the 
leg,  and  the  fleshy  part  from  the  wings.  Unless  the  party  is 
large,  the  breast-slices  will  meet  demands.  The  choice  bits 
of  fowls,  whether  boiled  or  roasted,  are  the  side-bones,  the 
slices  from  the  breast,  wish-bone  or  merry-thought,  the 
wings,  and,  of  a  fat,  tender-boiled  fowl,  the  thighs. 

The  delicate-  task  of  separating  joints  is  best  learned  by 
practice,  and  by  putting  one's  self  under  the  guidance  of 
friends  whose  taste  and  judgment  may  be  relied  upon.  In 
large  dinner-parties,  the  lady  or  gentleman  is  now-a-days 
mostly  relieved  from  the  laborious  duty  of  carving  by  the 
waiter,  who,  after  the  dishes  have  been  placed  on  the  table, 
removes  them  to  the  side-table. 

In  helping  to  salmon,  give  a  slice  of  the  thick,  and  one 
of  the  thinner  part  of  the  fish,  covering  with  the  sauce  pro- 
vided, whether  this  be  caper,  egg,  or  anchovy.  Have  slices 
of  lemon  in  a  plate  by  themselves. 

CASHMERE.  The  finest  shawls  of  this  name  are  those 
from  the  looms  of  Cashmere,  and  they  are  made  of  the  fine 
down  of  the  goats  that  live  on  the  table-land  of  Thibet. 
When  not  in  use,  these  shawls,  like  the  camel's-hair  shawls, 
should  be  wrapped  in  linen,  with  camphor  sprinkled  in  the 
folds,  and  kept  in  a  cool,  dark  closet,  or  in  camphor  or  cedar 
trunks. 


CATCHUP.  115 

CATCHUP.  The  most  indispensable  of  these  prepara- 
tions are  Mushroom,  Walnut,  and  Tomato  Catchup. 

Mushrooms  should  only  be  gathered  by  some  one  acquaint- 
ed with  this  peculiar  family.  The  wholesome  ones  have,  a 
pleasant  odor,  a  round  form,  tender  edge  and  middle,  and 
when  young  a  salmon  color  on  the  under  part,  which,  as  they 
mature,  turns  to  a  dark  brown,  the  upper  part  and  stalk  be- 
ing of  a  pearlish  white.  But  as  sad  accidents  often  occur 
from  the  use  of  poisonous  mushrooms,  no  one  should  attempt 
to  gather  this  edible  fungus  without  competent  knowledge. 
One  fact  with  regard  to  the  mushroom  is,  that  the  wholesome 
kinds  grow  openly  in  pastures,  and  those  that  are  found  in 
woods  and  damp  swampy  places  are  not  good. 

It  is  said  that  poisonous  mushrooms  turn  silver  black, 
and  onions  that  are  boiled  with  them.  Another  test  is  to 
sprinkle  a  little  salt  on  the  inner  spongy  side,  and  examine 
them  a  little  while  after;  if  the  action  of  the  salt  has  impart- 
ed a  yellow  color,  they  are  to  be  rejected ;  but  if  black,  they 
are  wholesome. 

MUSHROOM  CATCHUP. 

Gather  the  large,  juicy,  flap-mushrooms,  that  are  too  ripe 
for  pickling  or  stewing.  Remove  all  decayed  matter  and 
foreign  substances,  and  put  the  mushrooms  into  an  earthern 
jar,  with  a  little  salt  sprinkled  over  each  layer.  Cover  and 
leave  them  near  the  fire  for  twenty-four  hours.  Strain  off 
the  liquor  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  or  clean  saucepan. 
Let  it  boil  over  a  good  fire  for  half  an  hour,  than  add  to 
every  quart  of  liquor  two  teaspoonfuls  of  black  peppercorns, 
one  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  three  small  slices  of  fresh  ginger, 
a  few  blades  of  mace,  three  or  four  cloves,  and  a  sprinkle  of 
Cayenne  pepper.  Let  it  simmer  till  reduced  one  half.  Take 
it  off  and  cover  it.  When  sufficiently  cool,  fill  small  glass 
bottles  quite  full.  Dip  off  the  liquid  without  disturbing  the 


116  CATCHUP. 

sediment,  which  can  be  saved  for  soups,  or  fish-sauces,  or 
put  into  a  linen  bag  for  the  top  of  the  pickle-pot.  Cork 
closely  with  fresh  cork-wood,  and  lay  the  bottles  on  their 
sides  in  a  dry,  cool  closet. 

TOMATO  CATCHUP. 

Take  a  peck  of  tomatoes  that  are  fully  ripe,  on  a  dry  day 
in  August,  or  early  in  September.  Pick  the  stems  from 
them,  and  wipe  \vith  a  clean  towel  dipped  in  warm  water. 
Put  them  into  the  kettle  with  salt  between  each  layer,  but 
without  water.  As  they  boil,  skim  and  stir  them  frequently 
for  an  hour,  strain  them  through  a  colander,  then  through  a 
coarse  sieve.  To  the  strained  liquid,  put  six  or  seven  small 
chopped  onions,  one  or  two  blades  of  mace,  a  table-spoonful  of 
whole  black  pepper.  Boil  it  an  hour  and  a  half,  adding,  if 
necessary,  a  little  more  salt.  Fill,  when  cool,  small  bottles 
quite  full,  and  cork  closely. 

If  tomato  catchup  is  preferred  thinner,  you  may  slice 
your  tomatoes,  and  squeeze  them  through  a  linen  bag,  and 
pound  your  spices.  Take  one  or  two  onions  to  a  peck 
of  tomatoes,  chopping  the  onions  very  fine,  and  add  a  very 
little  Cayenne.  Keep  the  bottles  on  their  sides  in  a  cool 
closet. 

WALNUT  CATCHUP. 

Gather  the  walnuts  while  they  are  green  and  tender 
enough  to  be  pierced  with  a  coarse  needle.  Probe  them 
with  a  bodkin,  or  crush  them  with  a  wooden  mallet,  and  put 
them  into  a  pan  and  cover  them  with  a  pickle  made  of  a 
little  soft  water  and  a  handful  of  table-salt.  Let  them  re- 
main four  or  five  days,  rnashing  and  turning  them  every  day 
with  a  wooden  spoon.  Have  ready  on  the  fifth  day  a 
liquid  composed  of  soft  pure  water  and  mild  vinegar,  bring  it 
to  boiling  heat,  and  to  every  dozen  walnuts  pour  a  quart 


CAYENNE.  117 

of  this  boiling  liquid.  Mash  the  walnuts,  and  take  the 
liquor  off  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  press  the  rinds  in  a  bag. 
Boil  the  walnut  liquor  gently  for  an  hour,  skimming  it 
well.  Take  it  off,  and  to  each  quart  of  liquor  put  an  ounce 
of  pounded  allspice  and  black  pepper  mixed,  a  teaspoonful 
of  pounded  cloves,  and  the  same  of  mace,  and  the  grate  of 
one  nutmeg.  Put  the  liquor  to  the  fire,  cover  closely,  and 
let  it  boil  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  when  bottle  as  directed 
above. 

CAULIFLOWER.  These  delicate  vegetables,  before  be- 
ing cooked,  should  have  the  coarse  outside  leaves  removed, 
as  also  the  coarser  part  of  the  stalk.  Put  them  in  a  pan  of 
cold  water,  sprinkling  salt  over  them  to  draw  out  all  insects, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  soaking  some  hours.  Examine 
them  well.  Boil  them  in  a  steamer  with  milk  and  water, 
putting  in  the  large  heads  some  minutes  before  the  small 
ones.  Boil  them  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  or  till  tender, 
but  do  not  allow  them  to  break  to  pieces.  Do  not  keep  the 
cover  close.  Eat  them  with  fresh  butter  and  salt,  or  you 
may  rub  a  little  flour  into  three  large  spoonfuls  of  good 
butter,  melt  it  slowly,  and  pour  it  (after  the  cauliflowers  have 
been  well  drained  from  moisture)  over  the  vegetables  just 
before  you  send  them  to  the  table. 

Broccoli  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

CAYENNE.  This  is  made  from  the  East  and  West  In- 
dian Capsicums,  which  with  care  are  easily  grown  in  almost 
all  the  States.  When  the  pods  are  quite  ripe  and  red,  slit 
them  open,  and  sift  a  little  dried  flour  over  them.  Dry  them 
on  tin  sheets  in  an  oven.  When  dry,  pound  them  in  a  stone 
mortar  with  a  little  flour  till  perfectly  powdered. 

Chillies  or  Guinea  peppers  are  sometimes  used  for  Cay- 
enne. This  pepper  is  often  dangerously  adulterated  with  red- 
lead,  and  other  vile  compounds. 


118  CEMENTS. 

CELERY.  This  vegetable,  beside  its  uses  as  an  accom- 
paniment to  white  fowls  and  for  salads,  is  often  dressed  as 
asparagus,  boiled,  cut  into  pieces  of  six  or  seven  inches, 
and  served  on  buttered  toast.  It  is  also  cut  in  small  pieces 
and  stewed  in  butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt  added, 
and  cream  sauce  poured  over  it  just  before  it  is  sent  to  the 
table.  Celery  and  celery  seed  make  a  nice  flavoring  for 
light  soups. 

CEMENTS.  The  substances  *  which  form  the  uniting 
medium  between  bricks  and  stones  in  building  are  called 
cements.  The  best  calcareous  cements  are  those  which  are 
equally  mixed,  and  of  good  consistence,  and  are  manufac- 
tured of  pure  lime,  freed  from  carbonic  acid  by  recent  slack- 
ing, and  sand  which  is  fresh  (as  salt  is  apt  to  deliquesce,  and 
weaken  the  strength  of  the  cement),  and  whose  angles  are 
sharp,  not  worn  by  the  action  of  tides  and  water. 

The  proportion  of  sand  and  lime  is  different  in  various 
cements,  but  that  of  sand  always  exceeds  the  lime,  and  the 
more  sand  the  lime  can  receive,  and  retain  at  the  same  time 
the  required  plasticity,  the  better  for  the  cement,  as  it  solidi- 
fies sooner,  when  the  well  worked  and  beaten  lime  and 
water  is  subdivided,  and  well  taken  up  with  clean  sharp 
sand.  The  purer  the  lime,  and  the  more  it  is  worked  and 
beaten,  the  greater  its  capacity  for  receiving  sand. 

Common  mortar  is  made  of  pure  lime,  in  the  state  of  fine 
powder,  good  sand  free  from  clay,  and  a  little  pure  water. 
It  is  customary  to  have  the  sand  partly  coarse,  and  the  usual 
proportions  are  three  parts  of  fine  and  four  parts  of  coarser 
sand,  and  one  part  of  quicklime,  recently  slacked  with  pure 
water,  to  reduce  the  whole  to  a  thick  paste. 

Water,  hydraulic,  or  Roman  cements  are  those  which 
resist  the  action  of  water,  hardening  under  it,  and  solidify 
very  soon  after  being  mixed.  They  are  formed  of  various 
substances. 


CEMENTS.  119 

The  artificial  quays  and  islands  built  by  the  Romans  for 
the  purpose  of  erecting  villas  in  the  Bay  of  Baiaj,  a  spot  of 
fashionable  resort  for  the  wealthy,  were  constructed  of  a 
peculiar  earth,  called  by  the  Romans  pulvis  puteolanus,  and 
now  known  under  the  name  of  Puzzolana.  It  is  a  porous, 
friable  mineral,  of  volcanic  origin  and  various  color.  On 
being  reduced  to  a  powder,  and  incorporated  thoroughly  with 
lime,  either  with  or  without  sand,  it  forms  a  mass  of  firm, 
solid  substance,  that,  not  only  in  the  air,  but  immersed  in 
water,  concretes  to  stony  hardness. 

Cements  are  also  formed  of  other  substances.  Some  of 
the  ores  of  manganese  form  water  cements ;  and  baked  clay 
reduced  to  powder,  and  the  common  greenstone  calcined  and 
pulverized,  make  with  lime  tolerable  hydraulic  cements. 

Some  limestones,  when  calcined  and  mixed  with  simple 
sand  and  water,  form  water  cements,  and  usually  in  con- 
sequence of  these  stones  containing  a  certain  portion  of 
argillaceous  earth  united  with  lime. 

Various  parts  of  the  United  States  afford  very  good 
hydraulic  cements. 

Different  theories  have  been  broached  to  account  for  sub- 
stances hardening  under  water ;  the  most  probable  appears 
to  be,  that  the  attraction  for  water  in  certain  argillaceous 
earths  causes  them  to  quickly  absorb  the  superabundance  of 
moisture  from  the  lime,  and  thus  hasten  its  solidification ; 
which  explanation  receives  collateral  aid  in  the  fact,  that 
burnt  clays,  which,  properly  managed,  afford  hydraulic  ce- 
ments, cease  to  do  so  if  the  burning  has  been  continued  till 
vitrification  has  ensued.  (Bigelow's  Useful  Arts.) 

COMMON  CEMENT  FOR  BROKEN  VESSELS. 

Put  to  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  the  same  quantity  of 
vinegar.  Take  out  the  curd,  and  when  the  whey  is  only 
milk-warm  beat  into  it  the  whites  of  five  fresh  eggs.  Beat 


120  CHARCOAL. 

it  thoroughly,  and  sift  into  this  mixture  enough  quicklime  to 
make  a  stiff  paste.  If  the  materials  are  good,  and  well  in- 
corporated, the  above  is  a  cheap  and  useful  cement. 

CEMENT  FOR  BOTTLES. 

Mix  equal  portions  of  pounded  resin  and  beeswax,  and 
add  one  fourth  of  their  weight  of  mutton  or  beef  suet.  Let 
it  melt  slowly  over  the  fire,  and  stir  in  brick-dust,  Spanish 
whiting,  or  some  basis  that  has  the  desired  color.  Put  it 
warm  over  the  bottles  or  jars  to  be  sealed ;  or  well-corked 
bottles  may  be  dipped  in  the  cement. 

Cements  are  frequently  made  of  resin,  beeswax,  and  the 
powdered  substance  of  a  like  nature  with  the  article  to  be 
repaired.  Pound  the  resin,  and  stir  it  into  the  melted  wax, 
and  then  make  the  whole  of  proper  consistency  with  pow- 
dered alabaster  or  glass  or  china,  as  the  case  in  hand  may 
require. 

CHARCOAL.  This  substance,  as  observed  when  speak- 
ing of  antiseptics,  is  often  placed  around  meat  and  game  to 
keep  them  from  taint.  Water  filtered  through  coarse  sand 
and  a  bed  of  charcoal  is  often  relieved  of  deleterious  sub- 
stances. 

Charcoal  is  almost  indispensable  in  igniting  anthracite 
coal,  when  used  in  parlor-grates.  It  is  also  useful  in  small 
portable  furnaces  for  preserving;  but  when  these  are  used, 
there  should  be  a  current  of  fresh  air  to  carry  off  the 
fumes  of  the  charcoal,  which,  as  is  well  known,  are  fatal 
to  human  life. 

Vessels  and  tubs  in  which  meats,  and  substances  whose 
absorbed  juices  might  induce  putrefaction,  are  kept,  are  often 
charred  by  burning  shavings  in  them,  the  charcoal  thus 
induced  keeping  them  sweet. 


CHEESE.  121 

CHARLOTTE  DE  RUSSE.  One  pint  of  sweet  cream, 
the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  sifted  fine, 
and  one  pint  of  unskimmed  milk. 

Boil  the  milk  with  a  vanilla  bean  or  a  few  pounded  bitter 
almonds.  Take  it  off,  and  strain  it ;  when  cool,  stir  in  the 
cream  and  the  eggs,  both  of  which  should  be  well  beaten. 
,Put  the  whole  over  the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  thick  ;  and  have 
ready  a  jelly  made  of  an  ounce  of  the  best  isinglass,  or  Cox's 
sparkling  gelatine,  or  the  same  quantity  made  from  calves' 
feet.  When  the  custard  and  jelly  are  both  cool,  but  not 
hard,  mix  them  together.  Have  a  fresh  sponge  or  almond 
cake  baked  in  an  oval  tin  mould,  from  which  cut  out  very 
neatly  the  centre,  leaving  the  bottom  and  sides  on  to  the 
depth  of  an  inch ;  fill  up  with  the  prepared  custard,  and  set 
the  ice  over.  The  whites  of  the  eggs  may  be  used  for  an 
icing  to  the  top  of,  the  cake. 

Charlotte  Russe  is  frequently  made  by  placing  ladies' 
fingers  or  Savoy  biscuits  in  a  mould  close  together  at  the 
bottom  and  sides,  and  filling  up  the  mould  with  custard  and 
isinglass  jelly,  and  setting  it  on  ice  till  turned  out  for  the 
table.  You  may  place  the  cakes  so  as  to  form  a  rosette. 

CHEESE.  The  quality  and  flavor  of  cheese  depend 
upon  the  richness  of  the  milk  and  the  amount  of  cream  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  it.  Cheese  of  a  good  quality  melts  at 
a  moderate  heat,  while  poor  cheese,  being  deficient  in  the  oil 
of  cream,  dries  and  curls  up. 

A  Parmesan  cheese  is  made  from  the  milk  of  not  less 
than  fifty  cows,  and  as  one  farm  rarely  contains  pasture  for 
such  a  number,  the  farmers  or  metayers  of  a  district  club 
together. 

Stilton  cheese  is  the  cream  cheese  of  England.  Cream 
cheese  is  not  subjected  to  such  heavy  pressure  as  milk 
cheese,  but,  when  the  curd  has  set,  is  placed  in  a  sieve  to 
11 


122  CHEESE. 

drain  slowly,  and,  after  being  gently  pressed,  is  put  into  a 
wooden  hoop,  and  afterwards  dried  on  boards  with  cloth 
binders,  which  are  tightened  as  the  cheese  hardens.  Cream 
cheese  requires  frequent  turning. 

Some  dairywomen  mix  tfye  cream  of  one  milking,  with 
the  rennet,  into  the  new  milk  they  are  to  make  their  cheese 
from. 

The  best  season  for  cheese-making  is  while  the  cows 
are  feeding  on  pasture,  winter  cheese  being  of  an  inferior 
quality,  and  made  with  more  difficulty  than  during  warm 
weather. 

Annotto  is  used  for  coloring  cheese,  particularly  in  Eng- 
land. (See  Annotto.)  Mr.  Coleman  attributed  the  poor  rep- 
utation our  cheese  enjoyed  abroad  to  its  sharp,  acid  taste,  its 
deficiency  in  rich  color,  and  its  lacking  a  firm  rind.  As 
these  defects  may  originate  partly  from  the  preparation  of 
the  rennet  and  the  manner  of  salting,  I  have  taken  great 
pains  to  consult  some  of  the  best  English  authorities,  and  to 
examine  personally  into  the  management  of  dairies  at  home. 
Among  others,  I  am  indebted  to  Professor  Low's  Elements 
of  Agriculture  and  Johnson's  Farmer's  Encyclopaedia,  books 
which  I  heartily  wish  were  in  the  hands  of  every  farmer  in 
the  United  States ;  for  though  all  matters  discussed  in  them 
are  not  applicable  to  this  country,  they  are  full  of  general 
agricultural  knowledge. 

The  utensils  required  for  making  cheese  are  a  large  tub, 
in  which  the  milk  is  coagulated,  and  the  curd  broken  ;  the 
cheese-knife  or  wooden  spatula  with  one  or  more  blades 
for  cutting  the  curd  to  facilitate  the  separation  of  the  whey ; 
wooden  spoons  for  taking  off  the  whey ;  sieves,  or  another 
wooden  vessel  perforated  with  holes,  for  further  expressing 
the  whey  ;  small  circular  vats,  in  which  the  cheese  is  placed 
to  be  compressed ;  and,  finally,  the  cheese-press.  This  last 
is  made  from  different  models,  and  acts  upon  the  curd  by  the 


CHEESE.  123 

continued  pressure  of  a  weight.  The  rennet,  which  is  used 
to  coagulate  the  milk,  is  the  fourth  stomach  of  a  calf.  When 
no  rennet  is  found  of  sufficient  strength  to  curdle  the  milk, 
various  plants  have  been  used  for  the  purpose  ;  in  England 
the  Yellow  Ladies'  Bedstraw  (Galium  verum)  has  been  sub- 
stituted, and  in  Spain  the  Cardoon  (Cynara  cardunculus). 
A  strong  infusion  is  made  in  the  evening  of  the  down  of  the 
Cardoon,  and  in  the  morning  it  is  ready  for  use.  Half  a  pint 
of  the  infusion  is  sufficient  to  produce  coagulation  in  fourteen 
gallons  of  new  milk. 

The  substance  of  the  rennet  is  increased  by  feeding  the 
calf  largely  with  milk  some  hours  before  slaughtering.  In 
taking  the  stomach  from  the  newly  killed  calf,  only  foreign 
substances  should  be  removed;  the  chyme  and  coagulated 
milk,  of  which  it  chiefly  consists,  should  be  undisturbed. 
A  few  handfuls  of  salt  are  to  be  put  into  the  stomach  and  all 
around  it,  and  then,  after  being  rolled  up,  it  should  be  hung 
near  the  fire  to  dry ;  and  if 'hung  up  a  year  or  more  before 
it  is  used,  its  quality  is  improved.  It  is  the  gastric  juice  of 
this  rennet  which  produces  coagulation. 

Says  Professor  Low :  "  When  the  rennet  is  prepared  for 
use,  it  is  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  put  into  a  jar  with  a 
handful  or  two  of  salt.  Water  which  has  been  previously 
boiled  and  cooled  again  is  then  poured  upon  it,  and  allowed 
to  remain  for  two  or  three  days.  It  is  then  drawn  off,  and 
sometimes  a  second  infusion  is  made,  but  with  a  smaller 
quantity  of  water ;  this  also  remains  a  few  days,  and  being 
withdrawn,  the  two  liquors  are  mixed  together,  strained 
through  a  cloth,  and  put  into  bottles,  to  be  used  when  re- 
quired. The  quantity  of  this  rennet  to  be  used  is  to  be 
regulated  by  the  strength  of  the  infusion ;  it  should  be  only 
enough  to  have  the  milk  curdled  in  an  hour.  If  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  new  milk  is  procured  at  one  milking  to  make  a 
cheese,  it  is  used  as  soon  as  it  can  be  strained ;  but  if  not 


124  CHEESE. 

enough  to  make  a  cheese,  it  is  put  into  milk-vessels  till  enough 
is  obtained.  When  the  cheese  is  to  be  made,  the  cream  is 
skimmed  off,  and  part  of  the  milk  is  taken  and  heated  over 
the  fire  to  that  degree,  that,  on  being  returned  to  the  mass, 
will  raise  it  to  about  90°.  The  cream  which  was  removed 
is  either  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  heated  milk,  or  it  is 
added  to  the  general  mass,  after  the  heated  milk  has  been  re- 
turned. While  yet  warm,  a  quantity  of  rennet  is  mixed 
with  it,  and  coagulation  soon  takes  place.  The  curd  being 
formed,  it  is  cut  with  a  wooden  spoon,  or  cheese-knife,  to 
allow  the  whey  to  escape,  and  the  curd  is  subjected  to  gentle 
pressure,  while  the  whey  is  removed  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
It  is  now  lifted  by  one  of  the  mentioned  articles  (spatula  or 
spoon)  into  a  sieve,  or  vat  with  holes,  where  it  is  repeatedly 
cut,  pressed  by  the  hand,  and  broken,  until  it  no  longer  gives 
out  any  serous  matter.  Finally,  after  being  cut  very  small  by 
the  cheese-knife,  and  a  quantity  of  salt,  in  the  proportion  of 
about  half  an  ounce  to  a  pound  of  cheese,  being  mixed  with 
it,  it  is  wrapped  in  a  piece  of  cloth,  put  into  a  small  wooden 
vessel,  with  circular  holes  at  the  side  and  bottom,  and  placed 
in  the  cheese-press ;  but  frequently  the  salt  is  not  applied  un- 
til the  cheese  has  been  compressed." 

The  time  which  is  allowed  for  the  cheese  to  remain  in 
press,  is  regulated  by  the  richness  of  the  cheese,  and  the 
amount  of  previous  manipulation  which  has  been  bestowed, 
very  rich  cheese  requiring  comparatively  but  little  pressure. 

"  But,"  says  Professor  Low,  "  in  ordinary  cases,  the 
cheese,  being  wrapped  in  a  cloth,  and  put  into  its  vat,  with  a 
board  above  it  to  fit  the  vat,  remains  in  the  press  from  one 
to  two  hours.  It  is  then  taken  out,  wrapped  in  fresh  cloth, 
and  replaced  in  the  cheese-vat ;  and  then  the  salt,  if  it  has 
not  been  previously  applied,  is  rubbed  over  the  surface.  It 
may  then  be  taken  out  every  five  or  six  hours,  the  cloth  be- 
ing changed,  and  the  salting  repeated.  After  being  pressed 


CHEESE.  125 

in  this  manner  for  two  or  three  days,  the  operation  will  be 
complete.  The  cheese  may  then  be  kept  in  a  warm  place 
for  some  time  to  dry,  and  ultimately  placed  in  the  store-room 
for  preservation." 

In  some  of  the  English  districts,  the  dairy-women,  on  tak- 
ing the  cheese  out  of  the  press,  put  it  in  a  vessel  with  hot 
whey,  where  it  remains,  an  hour  or  two  to  harden  the  rind, 
when  it  is  wiped  dry,  cooled,  and  returned  to  the  vat,  which 
has  been  previously  wiped  dry,  to  be  pressed  again.  If  the 
cheese  has  been  made  in  the  morning,  which  is  the  usual 
time,  it  is  again  taken  out  of  the  vat,  and  a  fresh  dry  cloth 
is  wrapped  around  it,  and  the  cheese  is  turned  and  replaced ; 
what  was  formerly  the  upper  becoming  now  the  under  side. 
For  two  days  it  is  turned  in  the  vat,  and  put  into  clean 
cloths  twice  each  day,  when  it  is  finally  removed.  The 
salting  is  now  undertaken.  The  cheese  is  carried  to  the 
salting-house  and  placed  in  the  vat  in  a  tub,  which  is  partly 
filled  with  brine.  Here  the  cheese  remains  for  several  days, 
being  regularly  turned  at  least  once  every  day.  The  vat  is 
then  removed  and  the  cheese  placed  on  the  salting-bench, 
where  it  remains  for  eight  or  ten  days,  salt  being  daily 
rubbed  over  the  whole  cheese.  If  the  cheese  is  of  large  size, 
it  is  common  to  secure  it  with  a  wooden  hoop  or  fillet  of 
cloth,  to  prevent  cracks  and  rents.  When  supposed  to  be 
sufficiently  salted,  it  is  washed  in  warm  water  or  whey,  and, 
when  well  dried  with  a  cloth,  put  on  the  drying-bench,  where 
it  remains  a  week  or  ten  days  before  it  is  finally  deposited 
in  the  cheese-chamber. 

The  management  of  this  cheese-room  is  regulated  by  the 
weather  and  the  judgment  of  the  dairy-woman.  If  the  air 
be  moist  and  close,  fresh  air  is  admitted,  but  if  cold  and  dry, 
the  room  is  kept  closed.  In  about  ten  days,  or  according  to 
the  space  of  time  between  the  washings,  the  cheeses  arc 
cleaned  by  being  washed  and  scraped. 
11* 


126  CHERRY. 

A  decoction  of  saffron  is  sometimes  put  into  milk  to  give 
cheese  a  little  color ;  it  is  used  in  the  Parmesan  cheese. 

The  mould  or  vat  in  which  cheese  is  formed  is  made 
of  thick  staves,  generally  of  white  or  American  oak,  and 
secured  with  two  strong  iron  hoops,  to  withstand  the  neces- 
sary pressure.  It  is  perforated  with  many  small  holes  in  the 
bottom  and  sides,  to  let  the  whey  escape  from  the  curd. 
This  vat  is  sometimes  called  chessel. 

Cheese-cloths  should  be  strong,  and  of  open  texture ;  every 
time  they  are  removed  from  the  vat,  they  should  be  wrung 
out  of  boiling  water,  and  dried  in  the  sun  or  before  the  fire  ; 
if  this  is  not  done,  it  is  sufficient  cause  for  inducing  "  a  sharp 
acid  taste  "  in  cheese. 

CHERRY  (Cerasus  vulgaris).  The  Cherry  is  of  Asiat- 
ic origin ;  the  Roman  Lucullus,  returning  from  Pontus  after 
a  victorious  campaign,  brought  it  from  Cerasus,  a  town  in 
that  province,  in  the  year  69  B.  C. 

It  is  a  tree  of  rapid  growth,  and  the  varieties  of  the  Black 
and  Heart-shaped  Cherries  grow  to  forty  or  fifty  feet  in 
height ;  the  Acid  or  Red  Cherry  does  not  spread  so  vigor- 
ously, but  is  of  slower  growth,  lower,  and  more  bushy  in  its 
developments. 

It  is  a  strange  fact,  that  we  have  not  cultivated  our  native 
Cherries  to  any  great  extent,  but  have  directly  imported  the 
rich  Cherries  of  France,  England,  and  Holland,  which  seem 
not  altogether  suited  to  our  climate,  for  they  decay  at  the 
season  of  ripening,  and  those  which  reach  maturity  lose  their 
fine  fleshy  firmness  a  few  hours  after  being  plucked. 

The  wild  Virginia  Cherry  yields  a  wood  hardly  inferior  to 
mahogany,  and  I  have  seen  bedsteads  of  elegant  polish  and 
color  made  from  this  material. 

Though  the  Cherry  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  that  which 
is  deep  and  mellow,  but  not  damp,  is  the  best  suited  to  it ; 


CHERRY.  127 

in  wet  positions  it  soon  grows  sickly  and  decays.  To  pro- 
tect it  from  spring  frosts,  it  is  well  to  plant  it  in  places  where 
premature  budding  will  not  be  induced,  on  the  north  sides 
of  hills,  or  elevated,  cool  locations,  rather  than  deep,  warm 
valleys.  The  finest  varieties  are  obtained  by  budding  on 
seedlings  of  the  common  Mazard  Cherry.  (See  Budding?) 
As  a  standard  tree,  which  is  the  usual  mode  of  cultivating 
the  Cherry  in  the  United  States,  this  tree  requires  but  little 
cultivation,  beyond  an  occasional  administering  of  manure  to 
old  trees,  and  a  very  little  pruning  in  midsummer  where 
a  dead  or  cross-branch  interferes  with  the  general  health 
of  the  tree,  and  an  occasional  washing  with  soft-soap  suds, 
where  the  bark  shows  a  tendency  to  become  hard.  Pruning 
is  very  apt  to  induce  gum  and  decay,  and  should  be  under- 
taken only  when  absolutely  necessary. 

Mr.  Downing  has  divided  Cherries  into  four  classes,  viz. : — 

1.  Heart  Cherries;  the  common  Mazard  and  Black  be- 
ing taken  as  types  of  this  division. 

2.  Bigarrean   Cherries.      Those   which   are   tender   and 
crackling,  as  compared  with  the  melting,  tender  flesh  of  the 
first  class. 

3.  Duke  Cherries.     The  May  Duke  is  the  type  of  this 
class.     These  are  excellent  varieties,  succeeding  well  in  al- 
most all  soils  and  climates,  and  invaluable  both  for  the  des- 
sert and  for  cooking. 

4.  Morello  Cherries.     The  common  Kentish  or  Pie  Cher- 
ry, and  the  Morello,  are  well  known  varieties  of  this  class. 

Where  cherries  are  used  for  dessert,  they  should  be  put 
into  a  refrigerator  or  ice-house,  or  placed  in  a  vessel  which 
should  be  immersed  in  cold  water,  that  the  fruit  may  retain 
firmness,  and  be  cold. 

The  gum  of  the  Cherry  is  said  to  have  been  instrumental 
in  saving  a  besieged  army  cut  off  from  supplies.  Its  prop- 
erties resemble  those  of  gum-arabic. 


128  CHICKEN. 

Some  of  the  most  celebrated  cordials  and  liqueurs  of  Eu- 
rope are  made  from  the  Cherry.  Common  Cherry  Cordial 
is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  Raspberry  Cordial.  (See 
Cordials.} 

The  Kirschwasser  of  Germany  is  the  distilled  liquor  of  the 
common  Black  Hazard  or  Jean,  the  stones  being  ground, 
broken,  and  fermented  with  the  pulp.  Ratifia  cordial  of 
Grenoble  is  prepared  from  this  fruit. 

Maraschino,  the  far-famed  liquor  of  Italy,  is  distilled  from 
a  small  Jean  or  Mazzard,  to  which  is  added,  in  the  process 
of  fermentation,  honey,  the  leaves,  and  kernels  of  the  fruit. 

DRIED  CHERRIES. 

Stone  the  fruit.  Morello,  Kentish,  or  Early  Richmond  are 
nice  for  this  purpose.  Sprinkle  a  little  powdered  sugar  over 
them,  and  spread  them  on  flat  dishes  for  the  night.  In  the 
morning  pour  off  very  gently  what  sirup  may  have  been 
made,  and  weigh  the  fruit.  Make  a  rich  sirup,  taking  for  a 
pound  of  fruit  the  same  weight  of  sugar,  wetting  the  sugar 
with  the  cherry  juice,  and  water  enough  merely  to  dissolve 
it.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil,  when  put  the  fruit  in  and  scald  it, 
dip  it  out  gently,  and  allow  the  sirup  to  boil  for  fifteen 
minutes,  skimming  constantly  all  the  time.  Spread  the  cher- 
ries in  tin  pans,  and  place  them  in  a  very  moderate  oven ;  add 
the  sirup  to  them  gradually,  and  keep  turning  them  till  dry, 
for  several  days.  Put  them,  when  cool,  in  glass  jars,  and 
cover  closely. 

CHICKEN.  It  is  well  to  allow  chickens  to  hang  a  day 
or  two  before  cooking  them,  else  they  are  apt  to  be  tough 
and  stringy ;  but  they  should  be  drawn  on  being  killed,  the 
flavor  of  undrawn  birds  being  admired  only  by  the  few. 
Avoid  breaking  the  gall-bladder,  and  singe  them  without 
breaking  the  skin  or  discoloring  them.  Do  not  wash  them 
till  just  before  they  are  to  be  cooked. 


CHICKEN.  129 

Spring  chickens  are  roasted  like  fowls.  Twenty  minutes 
will  roast  a  chicken.  See  Fowls. 

Capons  are  roasted  and  boiled  in  the  same  manner  as 
turkeys  ;  they  are  best  when  nine  or  ten  months  old ;  when 
older  they  may  be  stewed  with  butter  and  vegetables,  and 
eaten  with  tongue,  or  boiled  for  broth  or  sauces. 

BOILED  CHICKEN. 

Put  chickens  on  in  plenty  of  water,  from  which  the  chill 
has  been  taken.  Chickens  with  a  white  skin  are  nicest  for 
boiling ;  before  going  on,  let  them  be  nicely  trussed,  putting 
the  gizzards  and  livers  under  the  wings.  Have  ready  a 
small  bit  of  salt  pork  which  has  been  boiling  three  quarters 
of  an  hour ;  put  it  in  with  the  chickens.  Boil  the  chickens 
very  slowly  for  about  ten  minutes,  but  keep  them  covered  in 
hot  water  for  about  half  an  hour.  Before  you  send  them  to 
the  table,  drain  them  near  the  fire.  Serve  with  egg-sauce, 
and  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

The  water  in  which  chickens  are  boiled  can  be  used  for 
soup,  by  adding  vegetables  and  straining. 

CURRIED   CHICKEN. 

Disjoint  the  chicken  and  cut  the  breast  up.  Chop  a  small 
onion,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  as 
large  as  a  table-spoonful.  Stir  them  well,  sift  in  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  curry-powder  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  broth. 
Lay  in  the  chickens ;  when  it  boils,  cover  it,  and  allow  it  to 
stew  very  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  if  it  gets  dry,  add  a  little 
cream,  broth,  or  water.  Season  with  salt.  Boil  some  rice 
in  another  saucepan,  and  serve  it  in  a  separate  dish. 

FRICASSEE  OF  CHICKENS. 

Cut  up  a  chicken  into  seven  or  eight  handsome  pieces,  and 
put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  gizzard  and  liver,  and  cover 


130  CHILBLAINS. 

with  water  a  little  warm  j  throw  in  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
little  pepper,  one  or  two  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace ;  boil  till 
tender.  Take  out  the  pieces  and  strain  the  liquor,  thicken 
a  piece  of  butter  with  a  little  flour,  stir  it  into  the  liquor  with 
a  few  onions  chopped  very  fine.  Put  the  liquor  over  the 
fire  with  the  chicken,  let  it  simmer,  skimming  it  for  twenty 
minutes.  Stir  into  a  teacup  of  cream  the  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
Pile  the  chicken  up  on  a  dish,  stir  rapidly  the  cream  into 
the  stock  in  the  sauce,  let  it  heat,  but  not  boil,  and  pour  it 
hot  over  the  dish  of  chicken. 

CHICCORY,OR  SUCCORY  (Cichorium Intylus).  The 
wild  P^ndive.  The  cultivated  variety  is  somewhat  used  in 
England  as  a  forage  plant,  but  it  is  said  to  impart  a  bad 
taste  to  the  milk.  The  root,  which  contains  a  bitter,  is  sub- 
stituted occasionally  for  hops  in  brewing  beer.  In  Europe 
the  dried  root  is  roasted  and  used  instead  of  coffee,  and  the 
excise  laws  of  England  allow  it  to  be  mixed  with  coffee.  In 
an  exceedingly  clever  article  in  a  recent  London  Quarterly, 
(Food  and  its  Adulteration,)  chiccory  is  spoken  of  as  an  in- 
sipid root  containing  neither  nourishing  nor  refreshing  quali- 
ties, and  possessing  no  nitrogenized  principle,  while  strong 
doubts  seem  to  be  entertained  whether  it  is  not  positively  in- 
jurious to  the  nervous  system.  The  same  Reviewer  remarks 
that  Professor  Beer,  a  celebrated  oculist  of  Vienna,  forbids 
the  use  of  it  to  his  patients,  considering  it  to  be  the  cause  of 
amaurotic  blindness. 

CHILBLAINS.  Oil-skin  socks,  worn  night  and  day,  are 
often  of  great  service  in  this  exceedingly  troublesome  com- 
plaint. If  the  skin  has  not  broken,  various  embrocations 
may  be  used  with  advantage.  Spirits  of  turpentine,  or  equal 
parts  of  vinegar  and  spirits  of  wine,  or  diluted  muriatic  acid, 
may  be  applied ;  but  if  the  skin  is  exceedingly  sensitive  and 


CHOCOLATE.  131 

broken,  mild  poultices  must  be  served.     If  fungous  granula- 
tions appear,  they  may  be  touched  with  some  mild  caustic. 

Carefully  avoid  going  near  the  fire  or  furnace,  as  great 
heat  causes  the  weak  vessels  to  distend,  and  sometimes  leads 
to  ulceration. 

CHOCOLATE.  A  preparation  made  of  the  seeds  or 
nuts  of  the  cocoa-tree.  (Worcester.)  These  preparations 
are  varied  by  French  and  Italian  flavorings. 

Common  chocolate  comes  usually  in  small  squares  of  the 
weight  of  an  ounce.  In  preparing  the  beverage,  you  scrape  or 
grate  the  chocolate  with  a  common  grater  kept  for  the  pur- 
pose. Put  the  scraped  chocolate  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan, 
with  cold  water,  regulating  the  quantity  of  water  by  the 
strength  you  wish  the  infusion  to  have.  If  you  wish  it  rich, 
put  to  two  squares  or  ounces  a  gill  of  water.  Stir  it  slowly 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  until  it  thickens,  when  it  should  be 
stirred  quickly,  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  added,  a  little  at  a 
time.  Chocolate  should  be  served  hot.  Sugar  may  be  put 
in  on  the  table. 

Chocolate  after  the  Italian  method  is  made  in  a  chocolate- 
pot  of  peculiar  construction,  which  contains  a  utensil  which 
answers  the  purpose  of  a  wooden  spatula,  and  the  handle  of 
which  passes  up  through  the  lid.  Put  into  the  pot  two 
ounces  of  scraped  chocolate,  and  pour  over  it,  gradually,  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk,  fasten  the  lid  on  with  the  wooden  dasher 
enclosed,  and  agitate  the  handle  constantly,  that  the  choco- 
late, when  hot,  may  present  a  frothy  appearance. 

French  chocolate  frequently  comes  flavored  with  vanilla, 
and  sweetened.  It  is  less  oily  than  common  chocolate.  If 
it  comes  as  a  powder,  dissolve  it  gradually  in  boiled  milk,  and 
serve  hot.  A  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  powdered  chocolate 
is  the  French  recipe. 

Cocoa  is  imported  in  bags.    The  nut  is  roasted  or  dried  in 


132  COCA. 

a  moderate  oven,  and  cracked  in  a  mortar.  It  requires  to  be 
well  boiled,  allowing  a  pint  of  water  to  each  ounce  of  cocoa. 
Pour  off  the  liquid,  and  stir  into  it  boiling  milk. 

Cracked  cocoa  is  simply  the  shell  and  nut  together,  and  is 
prepared  as  the  above.  Baker's  prepared  cocoa  is  much 
approved. 

Shells  of  cocoa  are  soaked,  and  then  boiled  in  the  same 
water.  They  require  to  be  well  boiled.  Put  a  large  gill  to 
a  quart  of  water ;  after  being  soaked  over  night,  and  thor- 
oughly boiled,  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  put  milk  to  it  and 
heat  it  again. 

CHOWDER.  Cut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt-pork 
into  slices,  and  try  it  out  in  the  pot  you  make  the  chowder  in. 
Take  a  haddock  that  has  been  nicely  cleaned,  and  cut  it  across 
into  bits  about  an  inch  and  a  half  wide.  Take  out  the  rashers 
of  pork  and  put  in  a  layer  of  fish,  pepper  it  well,  and  dust  in 
flour  on  it,  then  another  layer  of  fish,  seasoning  it  in  the  same 
manner.  Pour  over  cold  water  till  the  fish  is  a  little  more 
than  covered.  Put  it  on  to  boil.  Shred  an  onion  or  two 
very  fine,  and  throw  it  into  the  pot.  Ten  minutes  before  you 
take  it  up,  put  in  half  a  bottle  of  claret  or  port  wine,  and  let 
it  boil  up.  Try  a  little  in  a  cup,  and  if  not  of  the  consistency 
of  cream,  mix  a  little  flour  in  a  cup  with  water,  and  pour  it 
in.  Dip  in  cold  water  half  a  dozen  crackers,  split  them,  and 
five  minutes  before  you  serve  the  chowder,  put  them  into  the 
pot.  About  half  an  hour  after  it  begins  to  boil,  the  chowder 
will  be  cooked.  Serve  in  a  deep  dish,  garnishing  the  sides 
with  the  brown  rashers  of  pork. 

COCA  (Erythroxylon  coca).  A  pernicious  narcotic  of 
Peru.  The  dried  leaf  is  chewed,  but  the  forlorn  victim  who 
is  its  slave  is  punished  with  terrible  imaginations,  often  fan- 
cying himself  guilty  of  frightful  crimes. 


COFFEE.  133 

COCHINEAL  (Coccus  Cacti).  Dried  insects  brought 
originally  from  Mexico.  But  the  production  of  this  insect 
is  being  largely  extended.  They  feed  upon  the  leaves  of 
several  species  of  cactus,  and  are  thought  to  owe  their  color- 
ing matter  to  this  food.  The  most  beautiful  of  all  the  reds, 
carmine,  is  derived  from  this  insect.  Though  the  natural 
color  of  cochineal  is  crimson,  yet  on  dissolving  it  in  water, 
and  adding  bitartrate  of  potassa,  it  yields  a  rich  scarlet 
dye. 

Cochineal,  according  to  Pelletier  and  Caventon,  is  com- 
posed of,  —  1.  Carminium,  which  is  the  name  given  to  the 
coloring  matter.  2.  A  peculiar  animal  matter.  3.  A  fatty 
substance.  4.  Salts  of  lime  and  potassa. 

The  preparation  of  the  finest  varieties  of  carmine  is  kept 
secret  by  the  manufacturers,  but  is  supposed  to  depend  much 
upon  the  delicacy  of  the  manipulations.  The  ordinary  pro- 
cess is  to  dissolve  it  in  water,  to  which  alum,  carbonate  of 
soda,  or  oxide  of  tin  is  added. 

A  pound  of  cochineal  is  composed  of  about  70,000  insects. 
(Bigelow.) 

COFFEE  (Coffea  AraUca).  The  coffee-plant,  of  Ori- 
ental origin,  being  a  native  of  Abyssinia  and  the  adjoining 
countries,  is  now  grown  very  extensively  in  the  West  Indies, 
and  in  South  America.  But  the  Mocha  and  Java  Govern- 
ment are  regarded  as  the  best  varieties. 

The  coffee-bean,  though  introduced  from  Abyssinia  into 
Arabia  as  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and 
England's  first  coffee-house  being  opened  no  earlier  than  1652, 
is  computed  to  be  consumed,  at  the  present  time,  at  the  rate  of 
six  hundred  millions  of  pounds  annually,  among  one  hundred 
millions  of  people.  Coffee,  like  tea,  is  the  better  for  being 
old.  The  principle  in  coffee,  known  under  the  name  of  ca- 
feine,  is  mellowed  by  age.  Coffee,  drunk  at  full  strength,  is 
12 


134  CORDIALS. 

an  antidote  for  an  over-dose  of  laudanum.  Roasted  coffee 
is  said  to  be  a  great  purifier  of  the  atmosphere. 

Coffee  should  be  roasted  equally,  and  of  rich  dark  brown 
color,  stirring  it  constantly  with  a  wooden  spatula.  On  be- 
ing ground,  that  which  is  not  infused  should  be  kept  closely 
covered  in  a  tin  pail  that  fits  neatly. 

M.  Soyer's  manner  of  making  coffee  is  to  stir  the  grounds 
in  a  stewpan  till  quite  hot,  when  to  two  ounces  of  coffee  he 
pours  over  a  pint  of  boiling  water ;  then  he  covers  it  closely 
with  a  cloth  for  five  minutes,  after  which  he  passes  it  through 
a  cloth,  then  warms  again,  and  serves  hot.  I  have  tried  this 
method  and  found  it  excellent ;  but  to  servants,  and  for  daily 
practice,  it  cannot  be  recommended. 

French  breakfast  coffee  has  an  equal  portion  of  boiling 
milk  added  to  the  made  and  drawn-off  coffee,  which  should 
be  warmed  together  and  served  hot. 

The  following  is  a  good  way  of  preparing  coffee :  — 

Put  in  your  coffee-pot  three  ounces  of  ground  coffee,  with  a 
bit  of  fish-skin  that  has  been  previously  washed  (it  need  not 
be  larger  than  a  cent),  or  a  little  egg  may  be  used  (one  egg 
should  last  three  mornings)  ;  pour  over  it  a  quart  of  boiling 
water.  Let  it  boil  not  longer  than  five  minutes,  then  take  it 
off  to  settle,  and  clear  the  spout  of  the  coffee-pot  by  pouring 
out  a  little  coffee  and  returning  it ;  then  put  in  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  cold  water  to  facilitate  the  settling. 

The  same  coffee-grounds  can  have  another  quart  of  boiling 
water  poured  on  them,  and  be  boiled  five  minutes,  and  yield 
a  very  good  beverage. 

CORDIALS.  These  drinks  are  made  from  cherries, 
peaches,  strawberries,  raspberries,  blackberries,  apricots,  etc. 

STRAWBERRY  CORDIAL. 
Let  the  fruit  be  fair  and  perfectly  ripe,  and  to  every 


CORN,   INDIAN.  135 

quart  of  fruit,  sift  over  a  pound  of  the  purest  loaf-sugar. 
Let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours  in  a  deep  pan,  when  strain 
the  liquor  from  the  fruit,  and  to  every  large  spoonful  of 
juice  put  a  table-spoonful  of  purest  brandy.  Put  it  in  small 
bottles  in  a  cool  place. 

RASPBERRY  CORDIAL. 

Squeeze  your  raspberries  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  to 
every  quart  of  juice  add  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar.  Put  it 
with  the  sugar  into  a  stone  jar,  and  stir  it  together  frequently 
the  first  day,  then  allow  it  to  stand  for  three  days,  when 
strain  through  a  sieve.  To  each  quart  of  juice  thus  prepared, 
add  one  quart  of  brandy.  Bottle  for  use. 

PEACH  CORDIAL. 

Take  peaches  that  are  juicy  and  perfectly  ripe.  Slice 
them,  crack  the  stones,  and  put  the  kernels  in.  Add  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Set  it  near  the  fire,  and 
dip  off  the  juice  from  time  to  time,  pressing  it  towards  the 
last  with  a  spoon.  When  the  juice  is  entirely  expressed, 
put  it  in  a  preserving-kettle,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  and  skim 
it  thoroughly.  Let  it  cool,  and  then  add  a  quart  of  brandy 
to  each  quart  of  peach  sirup. 

(See  Blackberry.) 

CORN,  INDIAN  (Zea  Mays).  Green  corn  should  be 
put  into  boiling  water,  and  cooked  about  twenty  minutes  ;  if 
boiled  too  long,  it  becomes  hard. 

But  dishes  made  of  Indian  meal  can  scarcely  be  cooked 
too  much.  Mush  requires  two  hours  of  steady  boiling,  and 
puddings  made  of  corn-meal  require,  whether  boiled  or 
baked,  five  or  six  hours  of  cooking. 

Corn,  if  ground  too  fine,  is  flat  and  insipid.  Exported 
corn  should  be  kiln-dried. 


136  CRANBERRY. 

Hominy  is  mostly  prepared  from  the  white  corn  of  the 
South ;  when  coarse  it  is  merely  hulled  and  crushed,  but  fine 
hominy  is  ground. 

Succotash  consists  of  beans  boiled  till  tender,  and  mixed 
with  boiled  corn  cut  from  the  cob.  Season  with  fresh  butter 
and  salt. 

PAUL  STILLMAN'S  CORN  BREAD. 

Mix  with  four  cups  of  corn  meal  one  cup  of  wheat  flour ; 
put  in  a  cup  of  hot  water  one  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of 
soda,  or  by  weight  one  drachm,  with  which  thoroughly  wet 
the  meal ;  two  or  three  eggs  are  an  improvement ;  then  mix 
in  a  little  water  one  half  of  the  same  measure,  or  an  equal 
weight,  of  muriatic  acid,  and  stir  it  thoroughly  with  the  mass. 
Spread  in  a  tin  pie-pan,  and  bake  immediately  in  a  quick 
oven.  In  this  recipe,  observes  Mr.  Stillman,  the  carbonate 
of  soda  and  muriatic  acid  combine,  and,  forming  muriate  of 
soda  (common  salt),  give  out  carbonic-acid  gas  to  inflate  or 
raise  the  bread.  The  salt  formed  in  raising  the  bread  is  no 
more  than  should  be  used  were  it  added  before  its  combina- 
tion, and  entirely  avoids  the  common  objection,  where  salera- 
tus  is  used,  of  having  potash  in  the  bread. 

CRANBERRY.  This  useful  berry  is,  among  condiments, 
the  very  sheet-anchor  of  the  New  England  housewife. 

The  wild  Cranberry  of  New  England  (Oxy  coccus  macro- 
carpus}  is  larger  and  finer  than  the  European  Cranberry 
(0.  pulastris),  and  it  is  largely  exported. 

It  grows  mostly  in  mossy  wet  land,  yet  beds  are  easily 
prepared  in  moist  or  peaty  soils,  and  if  thoroughly  decayed 
manure  is  added,  the  berries  will  be  larger  and  finer  than  the 
wild  ones.  Mr.  Downing  has  said,  that  a  square  of  the  size  of 
twenty  feet,  planted  in  this  way,  will  yield  three  or  four  bush- 
els annually,  —  quite  sufficient  for  a  family.  Plants  taken 


CREAMS.  137 

up  like  squares  of  sod  or  turf,  and  planted  two  or  three  feet 
apart,  quickly  cover  beds.  Land  otherwise  useless  is  often 
drained  and  turned  to  profitable  account,  by  cultivating  this 
fruit;  and  as  its  value  increases  yearly,  it  cannot  otherwise 
than  repay  the  little  trouble  of  making  beds.  The  best  cran- 
berries sell  some  seasons  at  twelve  dollars  a  barrel. 

Cranberries  are  sometimes  kept  in  cold  water.  They 
may  be  frozen  without  injury,  but  should  not  be  exposed  to 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold. 

CRANBERRY  SAUCE. 

Having  picked  and  washed  your  cranberries,  put  them 
into  a  kettle  with  a  little  water.  Simmer  them  gently  for 
half  an  hour.  Stir  in  powdered  sugar  and  let  it  simmer 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  frequently.  When  cool,  pour  it 
into  an  earthen  jar,  and  cover. 

CRANBERRY-SAUCE  JELLY. 

Add  to  two  quarts  of  picked  cranberries  one  quart  of 
pounded  loaf-sugar,  and  one  half-pint  of  water;  let  it  boil 
three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Dip  it  off  into  moulds. 

CREAMS.  Creams  may  be  put  into  moulds  and  frozen, 
or  they  may  be  frozen  like  ice-cream,  or  served  plain  in  a 
large  glass  dish.  If  moulded,  a  little  dissolved  isinglass  is 
added  to  the  ingredients,  but  only  for  shapes,  as  egg  eats  bet- 
ter. Creams  made  too  rich  will  not  freeze ;  if  deficient  in 
richness,  they  will  not  set  in  a  firm  mass. 

Creams  differ  chiefly  in  the  flavoring  ingredients,  which 
may  be  of  chocolate,  lemon,  vanilla,  almond,  pistachio,  or 
other  matters,  fruit  jellies  often  being  used. 

Creams  poured  over  some  light  cakes,  placed  in  a  glass 
dish,  and  set  on  ice  till  eaten,  make  a  delicate  dessert 
dish. 

12* 


138  CROQUETTES. 

VANILLA  CREAM. 

Put  a  vanilla  bean  into  a  pint  of  rich  milk,  and  let  it  boil 
till  thoroughly  flavored.  In  another  saucepan  put  the  yolks 
of  six  well-beaten  eggs,  to  which  has  been  added,  gradually, 
six  large  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  loaf-sugar.  Beat  it  well. 
Take  the  bean  from  the  milk,  which  strain  into  a  pint  of 
fresh  cream.  Warm  the  egg  over  the  fire,  stirring  constant- 
ly, and  not  allowing  it  to  boil ;  but  when  a  little  thick,  take  it 
off,  strain  it  through  a  coarse  silk  sieve,  and  stir  it  rapidly 
into  the  cream  and  milk.  Pour  it  into  a  large  glass  dish,  or 
into  cups  or  glasses.  See  Almond  Cream. 

CROQUETTES.  These  cakes  may  be  made  of  the  re- 
mains of  white  fowl,  veal  sweetbread,  delicate  fish,  rice,  or 
macaroni. 

MEAT  CROQUETTES. 

Chop  the  lean  parts  of  the  fowl  or  veal,  and  moisten  them 
with  butter  and  flour  mixed  smoothly,  and  a  little  onion, 
chopped  very  fine ;  put  the  whole  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire.  If  not  suffciently  moist,  add 
a  little  boiled  cream  or  white  broth,  or  sauce  that  may  have 
been  left  from  the  meal  before.  Stir  it  well,  and  as  it  begins 
to  warm,  stir  in  rapidly  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs.  Let 
it  remain  about  three  minutes  longer,  stirring  it  all  the  time, 
when  take  it  out  and  let  it  cool.  Divide  it  into  pieces,  which 
roll  out  into  small  bolster  forms,  and  rub  each  piece  into 
grated  bread.  Fry  them  a  bright  brown  color,  and  drain 
them  well.  Serve  them  hot. 

CROQUETTES  OF  RICE. 

Put  two  large  cups  of  well-washed  rice  into  boiling  milk, 
a  little  more  than  enough  to  cover  the  rice.  Let  it  simmer 
slowly  until  tender,  when  add  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter, 


CURRANTS.  139 

some  sugar  which,  previous  to  pounding,  has  been  rubbed 
with  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  the  yolks  of  five  eggs.  Let  it 
thicken,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Stir  it  well  together. 
Take  it  off,  and  when  cool  roll  it  into  small  bolster  forms. 
Dip  each  one  into  some  well-beaten  egg,  and  fry  them  in  a 
rice-basket  of  open  wire-work,  which  should  be  placed  in  a 
stewpan.  Fry  them  a  very  light  brown,  drain  them,  and 
sift  white  sugar  over  them.  Put  them  on  a  white  napkin  in 
sending  them  to  the  table. 

CUCUMBER  (  Cucumis  sativus).  This  cooling  vegetable, 
though  well  known  to  the  Romans,  was  regarded  in  England 
no  longer  ago  than  during  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  as  little 
less  than  poisonous.  Since  then  French  genius  has  culti- 
vated it  into  thousand  shapes ;  but  as  it  requires  French  prac- 
tice to  stuff  and  stew  cucumbers,  we  forbear  giving  receipts 
for  this  mode  of  serving. 

When  sliced,  they  should  be  soaked  some  time  before 
dinner  in  plenty  of  cold  water ;  then  drained,  and  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar.  Set  the  dish  into  a  larger 
one,  containing  bits  of  ice.  See  Pickles. 

CURRANTS.  Red  and  White  (Ribes  rulyrum).  Black 
Currants  (R.  nigrum).  The  Currant  is  a  native  of  Britain 
and  the  North  of  Europe,  and  consequently  hardy.  It  is  the 
practice  now  to  grow  this  fruit  in  the  tree  form.  Plant  slips 
or  cuttings  (never  suckers),  in  the  autumn  or  early  spring,  in 
such  parts  of  the  garden  as  will  most  facilitate  their  rooting. 
In  order  to  ward  against  suckers  being  produced,  cut  off  the 
eyes  or  buds  of  the  cutting  as  far  up  as  you  intend  shall  be 
buried  in  the  soil. 

When  the  plants  are  transplanted  to  their  final  resting- 
place,  care  should  be  taken  to  train  them  from  one  main 
stem,  and  every  winter  superfluous  wood  should  be  thinned 


140  CURRANTS. 

out.  Where  large  fruit  is  coveted,  nip  off  the  growing 
shoots  in  the  middle  of  June,  when  the  fruit  is  about  half 
grown,  and  the  vigor  of  the  plant  spends  itself  on  the  grow- 
ing fruit.  Plants  six  or  eight  years  old  should  be  removed 
for  younger  ones. 

The  present  splendid  garden  sorts  of  Currants  come  from 
Holland,  and  the  Red  and  White  Dutch  varieties  have  thrown 
out  of  esteem  the  common  garden  sorts,  wherever  the  first 
can  be  obtained. 

BLACK  CURRANTS  (R.  nigrum). 

The  Black  Naples  is  much  superior  to  the  common  Eng- 
lish Black  Currant.  It  has  the  peculiarity  of  blossoming  ear- 
lier than  the  common  kinds,  while  it  produces  its  fruit  later. 

ORNAMENTAL  VARIETIES. 

The  Missouri  Currant  (Ribes  aureum),  with  yellow  fra- 
grant blossoms,  is  a  well-known  variety,  and  owes  its  pres- 
ent cultivation  to  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  who,  in  May, 
1804,  were  sent  by  Congress  to  explore  the  regions  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  discover  the  source  of  the  Oregon 
River.  It  has  a  variety  called  the  Large-Fruited  Missouri 
Currant. 

The  Red  Flowering  Currant  (R.  sanguineum)  bears 
clusters  of  light-crimson  blossoms  in  early  spring.  The  flow- 
ers are  large  and  showy,  but  this  Currant  is  not  hardy  enougli 
to  survive  New  England  winters.  It  will  not  thrive  north 
of  New  York.  It  has  several  varieties  which  display  white 
and  pale  pink  flpwers. 

Though  I  have  spoken  of  the  tree-training  for  this  fruit,  I 
must  not  omit  to  remark  that  many  excellent  cultivators  pre- 
fer the  bush  form.  Among  others,  we  have  the  authority  of 
Mr.  S.  W.  Cole  (American  Fruit  Book)  against  tree-train- 
ing, and  my  own  experience  coincides  with  his. 


CURRY.  141 

CURRANT  WINE. 

Pick  your  fruit  on  a  dry  day,  and  make  your  wine  on  the 
same  day  you  gather  it.  Take  the  currants  from  the  stems, 
bruise  and  press  them,  and  strain  the  juice  from  them.  To 
every  gallon  of  currant  juice  add  two  gallons  •  of  pure  soft 
water,  and  three  pounds  of  the  best  loaf-sugar.  Mix  well 
till  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Put  the  whole  into  a  keg,  and 
let  it  ferment  twelve  or  fourteen  days,  covering  the  bung- 
hole  with  coarse  muslin.  The  keg  or  cask  should  be  filled 
so  that  impurities  may  escape  at  the  bung.  At  the  expira- 
tion of  the  twelfth  or  fourteenth  day,  beat  up  the  whites  of 
five  or  six  eggs,  and  stir  them  into  the  cask.  Put  in  the 
bung  lightly  at  first,  a  little  firmer  on  the  second  day,  and  on 
the  third,  secure  it  well,  and  cover  with  bottle  cement.  Let 
it  stand  five  or  six  months,  when  rack  it  off,  and,  if  not  per- 
fectly clear,  it  may  be  refined  with  isinglass,  milk,  or  the 
addition  of  more  white  of  egg.  See  Jellies. 

CURRY.  This  powder  is  dealt  in  largely  commercially, 
but  it  is  frequently  shamefully  adulterated  by  the  mixture  of 
red-lead,  and  other  substances,  if  not  as  poisonous,  equally 
uncalled  for.  Besides,  the  packages  which  are  purchased 
are  not  suitable  for  all  dishes.  From  these  considerations 
many  persons  buy  the  different  substances  which  make  curry- 
powder,  dry  and  powder  them,  and,  keeping  them  carefully 
from  the  air,  mix  them  as  they  need  the  curry,  and  in  such 
proportions  as  the  dish  may  require. 

The  principal  ingredients  in  this  powder  are  turmeric, 
ginger,  cayenne,  mustard,  and  pepper,  softened  by  some  aro- 
matic spice  ;  cinnamon,  coriander,  and  cardamon  seed  being 
generally  used.  Turmeric  is  disagreeable  to  many  persons  ; 
it  is  the  root  of  the  Curcuma  longa,  a  native  of  *  the  East 
Indies. 


142  CUTLERY. 

Curry-powder,  where  it  is  mixed  in  any  quantity  to  keep, 
is  usually  in  the  following  proportions  :  —  To  an  ounce  each 
of  black  pepper,  mustard,  and  ginger,  one  half-ounce  only 
of  cayenne,  and  three  ounces  of  turmeric,  with  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  cinnamon  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cumin, 
three  ounces  of  coriander  seed,  and  half  an  ounce  of  carda- 
mon  seed.  Each  ingredient  should  be  thoroughly  dried,  re- 
duced to  a  powder,  carefully  sifted,  well  mixed,  and  closely 
stoppered  in  a  clean  bottle  and  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

CUSTARD.  Break  off  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  a 
vanilla  bean,  put  it  in  a  quart  of  milk,  and  let  it  boil  in  a 
porcelain-lined  kettle,  or  in  a  tin  pudding-pail  set  into  hot 
water.  Take  it  off  and  remove  the  bit  of  bean.  When  the 
milk  has  cooled,  stir  in  ten  well-beaten  eggs,  and  one  even 
cup  of  loaf-sugar.  ,  Strain  the  whole  through  a  coarse  sieve, 
and  pour  it  into  a  tin  pudding-pail,  which  set  into  a  pot  of 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Take  it  out 
in  china  cups  and  grate  nutmeg  over  each  cup,  or,  if  you 
please,  mount  them  with  whipped  cream. 

If  you  boil  the  milk  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  cover  it 
when  you  put  it  over  the  fire,  and  have  the  kettle  well  rubbed 
before  putting  the  milk  in,  as  milk  is,  without  care,  very 
easily  scorched  and  burnt. 

CUTLERY.  Steel  should  be  kept  as  dry  as  possible,  yet 
dry  furnace-heat  often  splits  the  handles. 

To  remove  rust,  rub  the  knives  well  with  mutton-suet  or 
fowl's  grease,  and  let  it  remain  a  day  or  two,  when  rub  dry 
with  unslacked  lime  finely  powdered,  or  with  emery,  applied 
either  with  a  cork  or  soft  wood. 

Clean  cutlery  with  powdered  Bristol  brick  on  a  board, 
rubbing  with  a  cork  wet  occasionally  in  a  vessel  of  soft  water. 
Wipe  dry  with  wash-leather,  and  clear  with  a  clean  knife- 
cloth. 


DAIRY-COW.  143 

"Wash  knives  in  warm,  but  not  hot  suds,  and  if  a  knife- 
washer  is  not  used,  have  the  knives  placed  in  a  mug,  not 
deep  enough  to  reach  the  handles.  Servants  will  be  careless 
about  these  matters. 

Covering  with  caoutchouc-varnish  has  been  tested  as  a 
protection  for  polished  steel,  but  it  is  too  expensive  for  com- 
mon purposes.  Knives  that  are  not  in  common  use  may  be 
heated  and  rubbed  with  mutton-suet  or  fowl's  grease,  heated 
again,  and,  while  hot,  rubbed  with  white  wax,  and  polished 
with  soft  leather,  wrapped  separately  in  brown  paper,  and 
put  away  in  a  dry  place. 

CIMLINS.  Gather  these  summer  squashes  while  they 
are  tender  enough  readily  to  yield  to  the  pressure  of  the 
nail.  Peel,  and  having  divided  them,  and  taken  out  the  seed, 
boil  them  rapidly  till  tender.  Drain  them  well,  and  with  a 
wooden  spoon  pass  them  through  a  colander.  Put  the  pulp 
into  a(stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  gill  of  cream,  a  little 
white  pepper  and  salt.  Stir  constantly  till  the  squash  is  dry. 
Serve  in  a  hot  dish. 

DAIRY-COW.  The  domestic  Ox  (Bos  taurus)  has  been 
so  long  a  servant  to  man,  that  from  what  parent  stock  he 
has  been  derived  is  mere  matter  of  conjecture.  Like  the 
dog,  he  adapts  himself  to  all  circumstances.  "  Where  food  is 
scanty,"  says  Professor  Low,  "  he  scarcely  exceeds  the  di- 
mensions of  the  deer ;  but  where  it  is  abundant,  he  reaches 
to  enormous  size.  He  is  found  from  the  equator  almost  to 
the  limits  of  vegetable  life,  and  is  everywhere  subservient  to 
the  wants  and  convenience  of  the  human  race." 

The  breeds  of  British  cattle  are  very  numerous,  Great 
Britain,  as  the  author  above  quoted  remarks,  being  remarka- 
ble for  the  excellence  and  number  of  her  sheep  and  oxen, 
and  owing  no  little  part  of  her  opulence  to  this  cause. 


144  DAIRY-COW. 

The  breed  most  cultivated  for  the  dairy  in  the  British 
Islands  is  the  Ayrshire  Breed,  derived  from  the  county  of 
Ayr,  but  found  in  many  of  the  dairy  districts  of  Scotland 
and  of  Ireland.  "As  now  cultivated  and  improved,"  says 
Professor  Low,  "  it  is  well  defined  in  its  characters.  The  in- 
dividuals are  of  medium  size,  of  various  colors,  and  have 
short  horns.  Their  limbs  are  delicate,  their  foreheads  nar- 
row, their  shoulders  thin,  and  their  fore-quarters  light.  This  is 
a  form  which  is  valued  in  the  female,  as  indicating  a  disposi- 
tion to  secrete  milk ;  but  it  does  not  correspond  with  the  form 
of  an  animal  which  indicates  a  tendency  to  grow  to  great  size, 
and  fatten  readily."  These  cows  do  not  enjoy  in  the  richest 
dairy  districts  of  England  all  the  reputation  they  possess  in 
their  own  country;  but  the  breed  has  been  much  improved 
within  the  last  fifty  years. 

The  Short-horned  Durham  Breed  has  been  extensively 
imported  into  the  United  States ;  it  is  considered  as  combin- 
ing a  larger  number  of  valuable  properties  than  any  of  the 
large  breeds. 

The  Alderney  Breed  have  short  crumpled  horns,  are  of 
small  size,  and  ungraceful  forms.  They  are  from  the  Nor- 
man Islands  of  the  British  Channel.  The  Island  of  Jersey 
has  the  palm  for  the  superiority  of  her  race.  The  inhab- 
itants, whose  riches  they  are,  guard  the  purity  of  the  breed 
by  interdicting  the  importation  of  foreign  animals.  These 
animals  are  not  strong,  and  require  a  temperate  climate ;  but 
the  milk  of  the  female  is  excellent  in  color  and  quality. 
Professor  Low  says  of  this  breed:  "Considerable  numbers 
of  the  cows  are  imported  into  the  southern  counties  of  Eng- 
land, where  they  are  kept  for  the  luxury  of  the  opulent,  or 
partially  employed  in  the  regular  dairies,  to  give  richness  to 
the  milk." 

The  North  Devon  Breed  of  England  are  admirable  for 
active  labor,  and  the  milk  of  the  female  is  rich,  and  under 
favorable  circumstances  abundant. 


DAIRY-COW.  145 

Cows  require  a  high,  well-ventilated  stable,  clean  litter, 
good  water,  daily  currying,  and  to  be  foddered  three  times 
every  day  while  enclosed. 

In  winter,  when  they  are  stalled,  the  food  of  cows  should 
be  as  varied  as  possible.  Ruta-bagas  and  turnips  may  be 
mixed  with  potatoes,  parsnips  with  pumpkins  and  squashes, 
cabbages  with  corn-meal ;  indeed,  both  cabbages  and  tur- 
nips should  be  qualified  with  potatoes  or  meal,  as  they 
otherwise  impart  an  ill  flavor  or  watery  properties  to 
milk.  Vegetables  should  always  be  cut,  and  a  part  of  their 
food  during  the  winter  should  be  boiled  or  steamed,  and 
have  occasionally  about  two  ounces  of  salt  mixed  with  it. 
Sweet  apples  boiled  in  water,  and  mixed  with  coarse  bran 
or  Indian  meal,  may  be  given,  where  apples  are  plenty,  with 
advantage.  Carrots  give  the  finest  color  and  flavor  to  milk, 
and  consequently  to  butter. 

After  the  cow  has  eaten  her  carrots  or  turnips,  or  what- 
ever fodder  she  may  have  given  her,  a  little  oat-straw  or 
hay  should  be  thrown  into  her  crib.  This  should  be  done 
after  each  meal.  Keep  the  stable  scrupulously  clean. 

The  cow  carries  her  young  about  forty  weeks.  The  calf 
is  quietly  removed  on  being  born,  before  the  cow  recognizes 
her,  as  separation  always  distresses  her.  The  cow  is  then 
milked,  and  some  meal-gruel  given  her.  The  first  milk  of 
the  cow  is  fit  only  for  the  stomach  of  the  calf. 

If  you  wish  to  economize  your  milk,  and  the  calf  is  in- 
tended for  veal,  the  usual  practice  is  to  allow  her  but  one 
teat  (if  the  cow  is  a  generous  milker)  for  the  first  few  days, 
and  to  give  the  calf  meal  and  porridge.  Still  it  is  poor 
economy  to  stint  the  calf,  and  she  should  be  fed  three  times 
a  day  regularly,  and  at  the  same  hours.  When  the  calf  is 
four  weeks  old,  she  requires,  almost  all  the  cow's  milk,  or 
the  last  drawn  from  several  cows.  A  little  chalk  is  some- 
times given  to  them  in  their  cribs,  and  about  half  an  ounce 
13 


146  DYES. 

of  salt  is  also  daily  administered.  Calves  are  considered 
good  veal  in  five,  six,  and  ten  weeks.  Calves  require  a 
good  deal  of  attention.  The  straw  under  their  feet  should 
be  often  replaced  by  fresh  litter,  they  should  be  kept  per- 
fectly dry,  and  fresh  air  should  circulate  in  the  stable  where 
they  are  confined. 

Corn-stalks,  husks  of  bean,  and  dry  pea-pods,  and  similar 
matters  that  are  dry,  clean,  and  not  too  harsh,  should  be  hus- 
banded for  littering  stables. 

Cow's  teats  should  be  frequently  sponged  in  warm  soft 
water,  and  if  in  spring  they  become  hard,  rub  them  with 
goose-fat,  as  this  grease  has  the  property  of  resisting  evap- 
oration for  a  long  time.  Melt,  or  render  it,  as  you  do  mut- 
ton-suet or  lard,  and  keep  it  in  a  jar  covered  with  blad- 
der. (Low's  Elements  of  Agriculture.  Stephens's  Book  of 
the  Farm.) 

DIARRHCEA.  If  the  complaint  is  obstinate,  dissolve  in 
a  teacup  of  vinegar  as  much  salt  as  you  can.  Take  one 
table-spoonful  of  this  vinegar  'so  prepared,  and  pour  on  it 
one  cup  of  boiling  water.  Drink  one  table-spoonful  of 
this  every  two  hours ;  if  the  disease  is  mild,  however,  three 
times  a  day  will  be  sufficient.  Two  spoonfuls,  following  the 
directions  exactly,  may  be  taken  at  a  dose,  where  the  com- 
plaint is  violent.  Follow  the  directions  carefully.  See 
Blackberry  Cordial. 

DUCKS.     See  FOWLS. 

DYES.  Dyeing  substances  have  been  classed  by  Dr.  Ban- 
croft into  substantive  colors,  which  unite  readily  with  the  ma- 
terial to  be  dyed,  and  adjective  colors,  which  require  a  third 
agent  that  must  have  an  affinity  for  both  color  and  stuff  to  be 
dyed.  These  agents  which  thus  fix  the  color  are  called  mor- 


DYES.  147 

dants.  It  is  frequently  difficult  to  say  which  is  the  color 
and  which  the  mordant. 

Among  substances  employed  as  mordants  are  included 
numerous  oxides  and  salts  ;  the  principal  are  the  acetate  of 
alumina,  the  sulphate  or  acetate  of  iron,  and  the  muriate  of 
tin.  The  material  to  be  dyed  is  first  impregnated  with  the 
mordant,  before  being  dipped  in  the  solution  of  the  coloring- 
matter.  Mordants,  besides  fixing  the  color,  often  brighten 
the  tint. 

Substances  used  for  dyeing  are  exceedingly  numerous ; 
the  mineral,  animal,  and  vegetable  kingdoms  all  pay  tribute 
to  this  exquisite  art. 

BLUE  DYES. 

The  Indigo  of  commerce  is  the  chief  blue  dye.  The  best 
kind  is  the  Indigofera  tinctoria.  The  green  parts  of  the 
plant  are  cut  before  flowering,  put  into  large  vats  with  water, 
when  fermentation  takes  place,  and  the  indigo  settles  into 
powdery,  pulpy  matter ;  its  color  is  at  first  green,  but  by  ex- 
posure to  air  it  absorbs  oxygen,  and  assumes  a  blue  color. 
This  plant  is  cultivated  only  in  warm  climates. 

Indigo  is  also  found  in  Woad,  Isatis  tinctoria,  and  some 
other  vegetables.  "Woad,  before  the  introduction  of  Indigo- 
fera, was  very  extensively  cultivated  in  the  North  of  Europe. 
The  coloring-matter  of  this  plant  also  is  obtained  from  the 
leaves ;  the  processes  for  obtaining  it  are  generally  less  artifi- 
cial than  those  used  for  the  indigo-plant. 

Indigo  is  capable  of  distillation  or  sublimation  by  a  mod- 
crate  heat,  and,  on  being  burnt,  emits  a  fine  purple  smoke. 
Indigo  is  insoluble  in  water  and  alcohol,  and  alkalies  have 
only  partial  effect  on  it ;  it  is  rendered  soluble  by  being  put 
into  the  dyer's  vat  with  various  deoxidizing  agents,  where, 
after  the  fermentation  has  continued  some  time,  the  surface  of 
the  liquor  will  be  blue,  and  that  not  offered  to  the  atmos- 


148  DTE  3. 

phere  green ;  but  substances  dipped  into  this  deoxidized  in- 
digo, though  at  first  they  show  a  green  color,  become  blue 
when  exposed  to  the  air. 

Indigo,  it  is  well  known,  may  be  dissolved  in  sulphuric 
acid  without  changing  color.  Blues  dyed  with  this  solution 
are  known  as  Saxon-blues ;  they  are  less  permanent  than 
those  derived  from  the  green  liquor. 

Indigo  requires  no  mordant  or  basis  to  assist  its  combina- 
tion with  cloth. 

In  calico-printing,  indigo  is  ground  with  some  deoxidizing 
agent,  wet  with  starch  or  gum  to  proper  consistency,  and 
applied  to  the  blocks  which  form  the  pattern ;  the  calico  then 
receives  alternate  baths  of  lime-water  and  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  until  the  indigo  is  sufficiently  dissolved  to  give 
a  fixed  color. 

RED  DYES. 

Most  of  the  substances  used  as  red  dyes  require  mordants 
before  they  can  be  fixed  on  cloth.  Logwood,  safflower,  archil, 
Brazil-wood,  cochineal,  and  madder,  are  substances  largely 
employed  for  red  dyes,  and  are  all  adjective  colors. 

Logwood  is  the  wood  of  the  Hcematoxylon  Campeachianum, 
which  is  found  in  Tropical  America.  A  decoction  of  logwood 
yields  a  fine  red,  with  a  violet  or  purple  tint,  which,  if  not 
arrested  by  some  agent,  becomes  in  time  yellowish,  and  final- 
ly subsides  into  black.  The  violet  color  may  be  fixed  by 
alum,  and  a  blue  may  be  obtained  by  verdigris.  But  it  is 
for  blacks  that  logwood  is  principally  valued ;  it  imparts  to 
them  great  softness  and  depth  of  tone. 

Safflower  is  obtained  from  the  leaves  of  the  Carthamus 
iinclorius.  The  coloring  matter  has  little  permanency.  It 
is  familiarly  known  as  a  pink  dye,  spread  on  saucers.  "  The 
fine  rose-color  of  safflower,"  says  Dr.  Bancroft,  "  extracted 
by  crystallized  soda,  and  precipitated  by  citric  acid,  and  then 
slowly  dried  in  the  shade,  being  afterwards  finely  ground 


DYES.  149 

with  the  purest  talc,  produces  the  beautiful  paint  by  which 
ladies  give  to  their  cheeks  the  bloom  of  youth  and  health, 
and  which  the  French  distinguish  from  carmine  by  the  name 
of  rouge  vegetale" 

The  dye  from  safflower  is  of  two  kinds,  yellow  and  red ; 
the  first  is  separated  by  maceration  in  running  water,  the  re- 
maining is  the  exquisite  red,  the  rouge  vegetate.  The  plant 
is  cultivated  in  various  parts  of  Europe,  but  it  is  principally 
from  Egypt  and  the  Levant  that  the  commercial  supplies 
are  realized.  The  flowers  of  this  plant  are  not  the  only  use* 
ful  part  of  it ;  while  they  assist  the  dyer  and  painter,  the 
seeds  contain  an  oil  used  alike  in  medicine  and  painting. 
Safflower  is  sometimes  called  Bastard  Saffron. 

Archil  is  a  dye  obtained  from  the  Lichen  roccefla,  found 
chiefly  in  the  Canary  Islands.  The  Dutch  litmus  or  turnsol, 
a  blue  pigment,  is  made  of  the  red  coloring  substance  of  this 
lichen  and  an  alkali ;  on  the  application  of  an  acid,  the  color- 
ing matter  is  disengaged,  and  the  red  tint  is  restored.  Lit- 
mus is  thus  used  as  a  dye,  and  employed  by  the  chemist  to 
test  the  presence  of  a  free  acid. 

Brazil-wood  is  the  heart  of  the  Ccesalpinia  echinata,  a 
tree  of  Brazil.  It  yields,  with  solutions  of  alumina  and  tin, 
brilliant  red  tints,  which,  however,  are  deficient  in  durability. 
Acids  turn  the  infusion  yellow  before  the  application  of  alum, 
which,  added,  brings  it  red  again,  affording  a  precipitate 
which  is  employed  as  an  inferior  sort  of  carmine  ;  the  addi- 
tion of  an  alkali  facilitates  the  precipitation. 

Cochineal  has  already  been  mentioned.  Red  morocco 
owes  its  exquisite  color  to  the  dye  obtained  from  cochineal, 
though  a  similar  color  was  formerly  produced  in  Southern 
Europe  and  Asia  by  the  use  of  Kermes,  a  dye  derived  from 
the  insect  Coccus  ilicis,  and  also  from  lac,  a  gum  which 
exudes  from  the  Ficus  Indica  and  other  trees.  Goat-skins 
form  the  basis  of  red  morocco. 
13* 


150  DYES. 

In  1 030  it  was  discovered  in  Holland  that  the  oxide  of  tin 
had  the  power  of  exalting  the  scarlet  color  of  cochineal,  and 
soon  after  one  of  the  celebrated  MM.  Gobelins,  at  Paris, 
availed  themselves  of  the  discovery  in  their  famed  tapestries. 
The  nitrate  or  nitromuriate  of  tin  produces  the  natural  color 
of  cochineal-crimson,  which  is  changed  to  scarlet  by  the 
tartar  employed  in  the  process.  Cochineal  is  soluble  in 
water,  and  is  fixed  on  cloth  by  means  of  alumina  or  the 
oxide  of  tin. 

Madder,  the  root  of  the  Rutia  tinctorum,  is  one  of  the 
most  valuable  drugs  used  for  dyeing.  The  plant  is  much 
cultivated  in  Europe,  and  particularly  in  Holland.  It  tinges 
with  red  the  bones  of  the  animals  that  feed  on  it.  Madder 
produces,  by  the  medium  of  different  mordants,  every  shade 
of  red,  purple,  and  black. 

Smyrna  Madder  is  the  root  of  the  Riibia  peregrina,  and 
the  dye  obtained  from  it  is  principally  used  for  dyeing  the 
Turkey  red  on  cotton,  with  the  adjuncts  of  oil,  galls,  alum, 
and  some  blood  (which  appears  to  exalt  the  color),  and  sub- 
stances which,  in  passing  through  the  alimentary  canal  of 
sheep,  have  imbibed  and  retained  some  of  the  gastric  fluids ; 
the  manufacture  of  Turkey  cotton  being  a  complicated  process. 

YELLOW  DYES. 

The  yellow  dyes  in  most  common  use  are  the  quercitron- 
bark,  weld,  fustic,  saffron,  turmeric,  and  hickory. 

Quercitron-bark,  the  most  valuable  of  the  yellow  dyes,  was 
discovered  by  Dr.  Bancroft,  to  whom  the  English  govern- 
ment, with  its  accustomed  liberality,  granted  the  right  of 
disposal  for  a  number  of  years.  This  dye  is  an  extract 
from  the  bark  of  the  Quercus  tinctoria,  or  common  black 
oak  of  the  United  States.  Like  most  of  the  yellow  dyes, 
it  is  an  adjective  color.  With  a  basis  of  alumina,  the  de- 
coction presents  a  bright  yellow  dye  ;  with  the  oxide  of  tin,  a 


DYES.  151 

variety  of  tints  is  afforded,  from  a  pale  lemon  to  deep  orange. 
The  oxide  of  iron  gives  a  drab  color. 

Weld,  Reseda  Luteola,  is  of  the  Resedacese  or  Mignonette 
family.  It  is  the  most  easy  of  cultivation  of  any  of  the  dye- 
plarits.  It  is  generally  biennial,  and  pulled  up  in  the  second 
year  of  its  growth,  while  in  flower,  before  it  goes  to  seed. 
The  roots  are  dried  by  being  set  upright  four  together.  When 
they  are  dry,  which  will  be  in  about  a  week,  they  are  put 
into  larger  bundles  for  sale.  When  stacked  in  the  dry  state, 
it  will  keep  for  years;  but  when  extracted  from  the  stalk, 
it  should  be  used,  as  it  soon  ferments  and  becomes  worth- 
less. 

Fustic  is  the  wood  of  a  tree  native  to  the  West  Indies,  the 
Mbrus  tinctoria.  It  affords,  with  alum,  a  less  bright,  but 
more  permanent,  yellow  than  the  preceding  yellow  dyes.  It 
assists  also  in  producing  green  and  drab  colors. 

Saffron  Crocus  ( Crocus  sativus)  is  a  plant  "  cultivated 
from  bulbs.  The  dye  produced  is  from  the  stigma  and  style 
of  the  plant.  The  yellow  dye  is  very  fugitive ;  by  the  addi- 
tion of  sulphuric  acid,  a  blue  is  obtained,  and  then  lilac,  and 
on  the  application  of  nitric  acid  it  assumes  a  green  tint. 

Turmeric  is  the  root  already  mentioned  in  the  article  Cur- 
ry. It  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies,  the  Curcuma  lonya. 
Curcuma  paper  is  that  which  is  stained  with  a  decoction  of 
the  dye,  and  is  used  by  chemists  to  detect  a  free  alkali,  the 
presence  of  which  it  betrays  by  a  brown  stain. 

A  yellow  dye  is  obtained  from  several  species  of  Ameri- 
can Walnut  or  Hickory,  particularly  from  the  Juglans  or 
Carya  alba,  the  bark,  leaves,  and  rinds  all  yielding  a  dye 
similar  to  Quercitron,  but  less  in  quantity. 

Annotto,  Bixa  Orellana,  a  shrub  of  Tropical  America,  has 
already  been  mentioned. 

French  berries,  Rhamnus  tinctoria,  yield  a  lively  but  fu- 
gitive yellow. 


152  DYES. 

BLACK  DYES. 

These  are  of  the  same  ingredients  as  writing-ink  ;  the  black 
dye,  therefore,  usually  contains  oxide  of  iron,  tannin,  and 
gallic  acid  ;  logwood  and  the  acetate  of  copper  imparting, 
when  added,  a  blue  shade.  As  the  immediate  application  of 
the  black  dye  would,  through  quantity,  be  apt  to  injure  the 
cloth,  the  best  black  woollen  cloths  are  first  dyed  red  witli 
madder,  and  blue  with  indigo.  Frequently  ordinary  wool- 
lens receive  for  the  first  dye  logwood  only,  with  a  salt  of  cop- 
per ;  but  a  black  is  obtained  which  always  turns  brown  and 
rusty-colored  in  wear. 

Black  silks  have  generally  a  decoction  of  galls  applied 
first ;  the  galls,  being  more  attracted  by  the  silks  than  the 
iron,  are  therefore  the  true  mordant.  After  this  the  silk  is 
subjected  to  alternate  baths  of  sulphate  of  iron  and  a  decoc- 
tion of  logwood,  repeated  till  a  deep  black  appears.  Cotton 
has  usually  the  iron  applied  first. 

Black  vats,  with  iron  and  various  vegetable  matters,  are 
frequently  kept  for  an  immense  length  of  time  unemptied,  as 
it  is  believed  they  improve  by  age. 

The  Red  maple  (Acer  rubrum)  of  the  United  States,  ap- 
plied with  the  sulphate  or  acetate  of  iron,  gives,  as  discovered 
by  Dr.  Bancroft,  a  more  perfect  black  than  any  of  the  com- 
mon vegetable  dyes.  With  alum  it  yields  a  permanent  cin- 
namon-color, both  upon  cotton  and  wool.  The  bark  and 
leaves  are  both  used. 

The  common  Nutgall,  as  is  well  known,  is  an  excres- 
cence produced  by  the  puncture  of  an  insect,  a  species  of 
cynips,  upon  an  Asiatic  species  of  oak  (  Quercus  infectoria). 
Besides  tannin  and  gallic  acid,  Dr.  Bancroft  has  detected  a 
coloring  matter.  With  an  aluminous  basis,  galls  yield  a 
fawn  or  light  cinnamon  color. 

The  bark  of  Butternut  (Juglans  cathartica)  gives  to  cot- 


EGGS.  153 

ton,  with  an  aluminous  basis,  a  permanent  brown,  and  com- 
municates the  same  to  wool,  without  any  mordant. 

"  By  the  dexterous  combination  of  the  four  leading  colors," 
says  Dr.  Bigelow  in  his  Useful  Arts,  "  blue,  red,  yellow,  and 
black,  all  other  shades  of  color  may  be  produced.  Thus  green 
is  communicated  by  forming  a'  blue  ground  with  indigo,  and 
then  adding  a  yellow  by  means  of  quercitron-bark.  One  of 
the  latest  improvements  in  the  art  of  dyeing  consists  in  the 
employment  of  colors  derived  from  the  mineral  kingdom. 
Prussian  blue,  orpiment,  chromate  of  lead,  and  other  min- 
eral compounds,  have,  by  appropriate  processes,  been  made 
to  communicate  their  colors  to  different  stuffs.  An  abstract 
of  the  processes  is  given  in  Ure's  Notes  to  Berthollet  on 
Dyeing." 

See  Bancroft  on  Permanent  Color  ;  Professor  Low's  Ele- 
ments of  Agriculture,  Art.  Plants  cultivated  for  Dyes ; 
Bigelow's  Useful  Arts ;  and  an  interesting  article  in  Quar- 
terly Review  (English),  entitled  Dr.  Bancroft  on  Permanent 
Colors,  Art.  XIV.,  1814. 

EGGS.  Various  ways  are  recommended  for  preserving 
eggs.  One  way  is  to  pack  them  in  a  keg,  and  then  pour 
over  them  lime-water,  which  should  be  prepared  thus :  — 
Take  a  gallon  of  soft  water,  throw  in  a  handful  of  clean  salt, 
and  a  quart-bowlful  of  unslacked  lime  ;  when  it  is  cold,  pour 
it  carefully  over  the  packed  eggs. 

Eggs  may  also  be  rubbed  with  fresh  butter,  or  dipped  in 
liquid  mutton-suet  or  beef-suet.  In  eithef  case  they  are  no 
longer  capable  of  being  hatched.  Where  a  few  only  are  to 
be  preserved,  they  may  be  smeared  with  some  sweet  butter 
or  fat,  hung  in  a  net,  and  daily  turned  upside  down. 

Three  minutes  is  the  usual  rule  for  boiling  eggs  of  the 
average  size.  Eggs  should  not  be  cooked  till  eight  or  ten 


154  EGG-PLANT. 

hours  after  being  laid,  as  previous  to  this  time  the  white  of 
the  egg  presents  a  thin,  milky  appearance  on  being  boiled. 

DROPPED  EGG. 

Have  the  water  boiling,  drop  the  egg  in  without  breaking 
the  yolk ;  have  ready  slices  of  buttered  toast,  and  when  the 
egg  has  set,  remove  it  with  the  egg-slice  to  the  top  of  the 
toast,  taking  care  again  not  to  break  the  yolk.  This  is  the 
lightest  form  of  cooking  eggs,  and  therefore  best  suited  to 
invalids. 

OMELETTES. 

These  preparations,  to  be  successful,  require  practice,  and 
an  omelette  or  small  frying-pan. 

Break  five  eggs  in  a  dish,  season  with  a  little  salt,  a  dust 
of  pepper,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  boiled  chopped  parsley,  the 
same  quantity  of  young  onion,  also  chopped  very  fine,  and 
beat  all  well  together. 

Melt  in  the  frying-pan  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  pour  the 
egg  in.  Stir  it,  but  when  it  shows  signs  of  hardening,  begin 
to  shape  it  with  the  spoon,  and  by  tipping  the  pan  up  so  that 
the  egg  may  occupy  only  a  small  part  of  the  pan.  When  a 
very  delicate  brown  is  supposed  to  be  attained,  turn  it  upon 
a  dish,  with  the  browned  side  top.  Omelettes  should  not  be 
overdone.  They  may  be  varied  to  almost  any  amount.  Del- 
icate vegetables,  such  as  boiled  cauliflower,  or  herbs,  or  boiled 
chopped  ham,  may  be  beaten  into  the  egg.  Omelettes  should 
be  served  hot. 

POACHED  EGG. 

Beat  six  eggs  Veil,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  about 
three  ounces  of  butter.  Stir  them  constantly  for  three  min- 
utes. Serve  on  hot  buttered  toast. 

EGG-PLANT  (Solanum  Melongena).  Of  this  delicate 
plant  there  are  two  varieties,  the  white  and  purple.  The 


FAT.  155 

last  is  for  the  table,  the  white  being  more  ornamental,  but 
rarely  used. 

Select  young  fruit  that  has  just  reached  maturity.  Par- 
boil them,  and  drain  off  the  water.  When  cool,  slice  them 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  fry  them  in  batter  made  of  egg, 
milk,  and  flour,  or  dip  each  slice  in  egg,  and  then  in  grated 
bread-crumbs  that  are  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Fry 
them  a  delicate  brown.  They  are  much  used  at  the  South, 
where  they  are  thought  to  resemble  soft  crabs  in  taste. 

EIDER-DOWN.  The  down  of  the  Eider-duck,  called 
also  the  Gothland  duck.  This  duck  is  found  principally  in 
Iceland,  in  the  Hebrides,  Shetland,  and  Orkney  Islands, 
though  it  is  found  as  far  south  as  the  Fame  Isles  off  the 
coast  of  Northumberland,  and  in  the  rocky  islets  beyond  Port- 
land in  America.  The  down,  so  highly  esteemed  for  bed- 
quilts,  is  collected  from  the  nests  of  the  birds.  When  the 
nest  is  stripped  for  the  first  time,  the  female  again  supplies 
it  from  her  breast ;  but  a  second  robbery  brings  the  male  to 
her  rescue,  who  then  furnishes  the  nest  with  down  from  his 
breast. 

FAT.  According  as  this  part  of  animal  flesh  differs  in 
different  animals,  its  name  varies  ;  in  the  horse  and  bear  it 
is  called  grease,  in  the  ox  and  sheep,  tallow,  fat,  suet ;  and 
in  the  hog,  hog's  lard. 

The  characters  which  indicate  a  disposition  in  the  ox  and 
other  domesticated  animals  to  secrete  fat,  are  fineness  of 
the  bones,  the  largeness  of  the  body  as  compared  with  the 
smallness  of  the  extremities,  —  limbs,  head,  and  neck,  —  the 
broadness  of  the  chest,  the  roundness  of  the  body,  and  the 
soft,  elastic  touch  of  the  skin.  This  form  is  not  the  same  that 
is  looked  for  in  the  female  ox  as  showing  a  disposition  to  se- 
crete milk,  where,  as  it  has  been  remarked,  the  limbs  should 


156  FIG. 

be  delicate,  the  forehead  narrow,  the  shoulders  thin,  and  the 
fore-quarters  light.     (Low's  Elements  of  Agriculture.) 

FIG.  The  fig  is  one  of  the  oldest  fruits  known.  In  the 
United  States  it  is  generally  cultivated  in  the  shrub  form,  so 
that  it  can  be  easily  protected  during  the  winter.  It  is  prop- 
agated by  cuttings,  which  are  taken  off  early  in  the  spring, 
and  planted  in  the  light  soil  of  a  hot-bed.  On  being  removed, 
they  should  be  placed  in  a  mellow,  calcareous  soil,  and  the 
compost  should  be  corrected  with  marl  or  mild  lime ;  they 
may-be  transplanted  the  same  season.  Mr.  Downing  recom- 
mends root-pruning  for  the  fig  as  cultivated  in  the  United 
States.  "  Short-jointed  wood,  and  only  moderate  vigor  of 
growth,  are,"  he  remarks,  "  well-known  accompaniments  of 
fruitfulness  in  this  tree  ;  and  there  is  no  means  by  which 
firm,  well-ripened,  short-jointed  wood  is  so  easily  obtained, 
as  by  an  annual  pruning  of  the  roots,  —  cutting  off  all  that 
project  more  than  half  the  length  of  the  branches."  Root- 
pruning  on  the  fig  is  performed  early  in  November. 

In  foreign  culture  the  fig  is  frequently  subjected,  while  the 
fruit  is  maturing,  to  a  singular  custom.  To  assist  it  in  ripening 
the  fruit,  it  is  punctured  before  it  reaches  maturity  with  a 
hollow  straw  that  has  b^en  dipped  in  olive-oil,  a  single  drop 
of  oil  being  passed  near  the  eye  into  each  fig.  Mr.  Down- 
ing observed  the  custom  sc  far  as  to  touch  the  ends  of 
the  fig  with  the  finger  dipped  in  oil,  and  thought  the  fruit 
ripened  more  speedily  and  swelled  to  a  larger  size  for  the 
practice. 

South  of  Virginia  the  fig  needs  no  covering  of  soil,  or 
straw,  or  branches  of  evergreens,  during  the  winter,  but 
grows  easily  as  a  standard  tree. 

Where  figs  are  not  perfectly  fresh,  they  may  be  put  into 
an  oven  of  very  moderate  heat,  and  plumped,  and  then 
rubbed  with  a  coarse  towel. 


FISH.  157 

FISH.  The  Pythagoreans  are  said  to  have  abstained 
from  fish,  out  of  respect  to  their  taciturnity.  Moderns,  how- 
ever, with  an  inquisitiveness  that  annihilates  reverence,  have 
found  out  that  some,  if  not  all  fish,  have  a  weakness  for  colors ; 
that  perch  can  be  decoyed  into  drum-nets  by  daffodils,  or 
any  bright-yellow  flowers.  It  is  also  said,  that  by  rubbing 
your  hands  with  assafoetida,  fish  will  allow  themselves  to  be 
taken  from  the  water,  as  readily  as  by  the  exquisite  artificial 
flies  of  the  hook-ahd-line  fisherman. 

All  Greeks  not  having  equal  forbearance  with  the  follow- 
ers of  Pythagoras,  we  find  the  Thunny,  which  is  to  the  South 
of  Europe  what  the  Mackerel  is  to  the  North,  in  great  favor 
as  an  article  of  food  among  the  early  Greeks. 

From  the  Romans,  the  famous  pickle,  Garum  or  Garus, 
has  come  down  to  us  ;  it  derived  its  name  from  a  crustaceous 
animal  so  called,  from  which  it  was  sometimes  made ;  but 
Pliny  says  a  fish  called  Scomber,  which  some  think  may 
have  been  our  mackerel,  was  also  employed  to  make  this 
pickle,  and  remarks  further,  that  Apicius  used  the  liver  of 
the  mullet  for  this  purpose. 

The  classification  of  fish  according  to  some  natural  and 
clearly  defined  orders  has  been  acknowledged  by  the  acutest 
intellects  to  be  extremely  difficult ;  for  the  successful  perform- 
ance of  the  task,  the  great  Cuvier  found  himself  not  prepared, 
and  it  is  to  our  illustrious  citizen,  M.  Agassiz,  that  this  ex- 
tensive branch  of  natural  history  owes  a  debt,  which  should 
be  discharged  in  the  immediate  gratitude  of  the  present  gen- 
eration, and  the  accumulated  admiration  of  succeeding  ones. 
Long  as  America  can  appreciate  genius  may  such  names  be 
gathered  under  her  stars  and  stripes. 

Fishes  are  naturally  long-lived.  Their  age  has  been  de- 
monstrated by  fastening  a  ring,  with  the  date  inscribed,  to  the 
gill-covers.  One  of  the  most  celebrated  fish-stories  is  that 
of  the  pike  of  Frederic  the  Second.  This  monarch  had  a 
14 


158  FISH. 

ring  so  fastened  to  a  pike,  with  the  date,  1487,  and  the  king's 
order,  appended,  and  the  fish  thrown  into  his  pond,  near 
his  castle  of  Kaiserslautern.  The  pike  was  taken  in  1754, 
when  it  had  consequently  attained  the  age  of  two  hundred 
and  sixty-seven  years.  It  weighed  three  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds,  and  was  nineteen  feet  long. 

The  senses  of  smell  and  hearing  have  no  external  avenue 
in  fishes,  but  the  former  is  said  to  be  the  most  acute  of  all 
their  senses.  In  their  natural  element  their  motions  exceed 
in  swiftness  and  duration  the  flight  of  birds,  the  shark  being 
swifter  and  more  untiring  than  the  eagle,  and  the  herring 
and  salmon  more  rapid  than  the  swallow.  Generally  the 
eye  of  the  ffsh  is  unprotected  with  eyelids,  being  made  to 
resist  the  water,  as  the  terrestrial  animal  is  to  live  in  air. 

I  shall  proceed  to  give  a  short  account  of  some  of  the  most 
important  edible  fish.  By  a  benevolent  Providence  those 
classes  which  constitute  the  most  wholesome  xfood  for  man 
are  the  most  numerous. 

The  Herring  lives  in  the  Arctic  seas  of  Europe,  Asia, 
and  America,  migrating  southward,  at  different  seasons  of 
the  year,  in  vast  shoals,  to  obtain  food  and  deposit  their 
spawn.  These  shoals,  which  are  led  by  the  largest  and 
strongest,  and  divided  into  bands  as  they  proceed,  which  visit 
different  islands  and  countries,  are  followed  by  larger  fish, 
which  devour  them,  and  by  flocks  of  gulls  and  marine  birds, 
whose  noise  and  numbers  announce  the  approach  of  the  fish. 
These  migrations  are  said  to  take  place  at  three  different 
times.  The  first,  when  the  ice  begins  to  melt,  to  the  end  of 
June ;  then  comes  the  summer  migration ;  the  autumn  one  fol- 
lows, lasting  till  the  midst  of  September.  They  deposit  their 
spawn  where  stones  and  marine  plants  are  found.  The 
millions  of  these  fish  that  are  annually  taken  by  English, 
Dutch,  and  American  seamen,  by  the  Norwegians  and  other 
European  nations,  are  hardly  to  be  computed.  Against 


FISH.  159 

these  annual  drains,  and  the  constant  attacks  of  larger  fish, 
is  provided  the  fecundity  of  the  herring,  the  spawn  of  each 
female  containing  from  thirty  to  forty  thousand  eggs. 

Who  first  salted  herrings  cannot  be  decided,  some  authori- 
ties giving  the  honor  of  the  invention  to  William  Deukelzoon, 
a  fisherman  of  Dutch  Flanders,  who  lived  in  the  end  of  the 
fourteenth  century,  others  bestowing  it  upon  William  Benck- 
els  or  Benkelings  of  Biervliet,  over  whose  grave  the  Em- 
peror Charles  the  Fifth  is  reported  to  have  eaten  a  her- 
ring, in  token  of  his  appreciation  of  the  importance  of  the 
invention.  The  smoking  of  herring  was  first  undertaken  at 
Dieppe  in  Normandy. 

Hardly  less  valuable  is  the  Codfish.  It  is  found  between 
the  fortieth  and  sixtieth  degrees  of  north  latitude,  both  in 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  making  its  home  on  the 
great  shallows  and  sand-banks,  of  which  the  most  celebrat- 
ed is  the  great  bank  of  Newfoundland.  Towards  the  end 
of  winter  or  the  beginning  of  spring,  the  codfish  seeks  the 
coast  to  deposit  its  spawn.  The  codfish,  with  fewer  enemies, 
is  still  more  productive  than  the  herring,  more  than  nine 
millions  of  eggs  having  been  discovered  in  a  codfish  of  the 
middle  size. 

The  Haddock  belongs  to  the  codfish  genus.  This  fish  as- 
sembles in  vast  shoals  during  the  winter  months,  in  every 
part  of  the  Northern  Ocean,  forming  banks  sometimes  twenty- 
four  miles  long  by  three  broad,  and  bending  their  course 
generally  southward,  proceeding  beyond  the  limits  of  the  cod 
and  the  herring ;  but  it  has  been  remarked  that  they  neither 
enter  the  Baltic  nor  the  Mediterranean. 

The  Hake  is  also  an  inferior  species  of  the  codfish  genus ; 
it  is  known  also  under  the  name  of  Stock-fish,  and  "  Poor 
John." 

The  Mackerel  is  another  tribe  of  migratory  fish.  It  frequents 
the  Arctic,  Antarctic,  and  Mediterranean  Seas,  as  well  as  the 


162  FISH. 

He  says,  "  Take  live  eels,  throw  them  into  the  fire,  and  as 
they  are  twisting  about  on  all  sides,  lay  hold  of  them  with 
a  towel  in  your  hand,  and  skin  them."  Life  ceases  when 
the  back  part  of  the  skull,  the  seat  of  the  spinal  marrow,  is 
pierced. 

Though  most  fishes  die  soon  after  leaving  the  water,  and 
exhibit  little  muscular  irritability  after  death,  yet  those  gen- 
era which  make  an  approach  to  a  ganglionic  system,  such  as 
the  carp  and  cod  kind,  generally  are  found  to  be  partial  ex- 
ceptions to  these  laws.  Fishmongers  have  availed  them- 
selves of  these  deviations  to  introduce  the  fashion  of  crimp- 
ing, or  stimulating  the  fish  into  motion  by  transverse  incis- 
ions. The  vitality  of  the  carp  is  very  great ;  they  may  be 
placed  in  nets,  and  kept  and  fed  thus  for  a  long  time  in  a 
damp  cellar,  and  the  heart  of  a  carp  has  been  known  to  leap 
about  four  hours  after  dismemberment  from  the  body. 

Herring  are  seldom  cured  in  a  private  family,  but  persons 
living  near  the  sea-shore  may  easily  take  the  pickle  left 
from  their  winter  stock  of  meat,  and  throw  the  herring  in 
alive.  They  should  remain  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  and 
then  be  packed  in  a  close  barrel  or  half-barrel,  with  a  layer 
of  salt  at  the  bottom  and  between  each  successive  layer  of 
fish,  and  an  occasional  sprinkling  of  saltpetre.  Be  liberal 
with  the  salt.  If  they  do  not  make  brine  enough,  pour 
pickle  over  them  in  a  few  weeks  after  they  are  packed.  If 
not  kept  covered  with  brine,  they  will  become  rusty. 

In  cooking  them,  take  them  from  the  brine,  and  let  them 
soak  for  an  hour  or  two,  take  them  from  the  water,  scale 
them,  and  pull  off  the  gills,  when  the  entrails  will  follow. 
Wash  them  and  let  them  dry.  They  will  require  but  a  few 
minutes  to  broil. 

The  legal  measure  for  fish  is  for  each  tierce  to  contain 
three  hundred  pounds  ;  each  barrel,  two  hundred  pounds ; 
each  half-barrel,  one  hundred  pounds ;  each  quarter-barrel, 


FISH.  163 

fifty  pounds ;  and  each  tenth  or  kid,  twenty  pounds.  The 
legal  measure  of  salt  is  at  the  rate  of  thirty-five  pounds  for 
every  two  hundred  pounds  of  fish  ;  and  it  is  further  provided, 
that  each  cask  shall  be  filled  up  with  clear,  strong  pickle, 
and  that  the  species  called  Magdalen  Herring  shall  be  desig- 
nated on  the  outside  of  the  cask  which  holds  the  same. 
See  Alewives. 

BAKED  COD. 

* 
Clean  the  cod  nicely  inside  and  out,  flour  it,  and  cut  thin 

slices  of  pork,  which  secure  to  the  fish  at  equal  distances 
with  silver  skewers.  Make  a  stuffing  for  the  belly  of  grated 
bread,  beef-suet,  sweet  marjoram,  thyme,  pepper,  salt,  and,  if 
you  have  it,  one  anchovy.  Make  an  anchovy-sauce  for  it,  or 
serve  with  drawn  butter.  Mackerel  may  be  dressed  in  the 
same  way. 

BOILED  COD. 

Cod  boiled  and  served  with  oyster-sauce  is  also  a  favorite 
dish.  It  should  be  boiled  in  a  fish-kettle,  with  a  strainer. 
Let  the  water  be  salted,  and  it  should  boil  hard  when  the 
fish  is  put  in.  Let  it  simmer,  covered,  for  about  half  an 
hour.  You  may  crimp  cod  to  be  boiled  if  you  please.  Pour 
the  oyster-sauce  over  the  fish  before  it  goes  to  the  table. 

SALT  COD. 

Brush  it  with  a  brush  kept  for  the  purpose,  and  then  put 
into  water,  and  let  it  soak  over  night.  Pour  the  water  off, 
and  put  the  fish  into  the  fish-kettle,  with  a  good  deal  of  water. 
Let  it  come  almost  to  a  boil,  when  remove  it  to  the  corner  of 
the  fire,  and  keep  it  covered  till  you  wish  to  serve.  Put  it 
upon  a  dish  with  a  drainer,  and  serve  with  egg-sauce  in  a 
boat. 

BOILED  SALMON. 
This  fish  may  be  boiled  whole,  or  the  head  and  shoulders 


164  FISH. 

of  a  large,  thick  salmon  will  make  a  handsome  dish.  Scale 
and  clean  the  fish  without  cutting  it  open  far.  If  it  is  boiled 
whole,  put  it  into  boiling  water,  in  which  has  been  thrown  a 
handful  of  salt.  Boiling  water  is  thought  to  harden  the  fish. 
Put  it  to  boil  in  a  large  fish-kettle,  with  a  strainer.  If  it  is 
put  into  cold  water,  it  will  not  be  done  under  an  hour,  and  if 
it  weigh  ten  pounds,  an  hour's  gentle  simmering  will  hardly 
be  too  much.  Fish  underdone  is  unwholesome,  and  looks 
uninviting.  When  done,  lift  the  strainer,  and  rest  it  across 
the  kettle,  that  the  fish  may  drain.  Heat  the  dish  (which 
should  have  a  strainer),  and  heat  also  a  white  napkin,  and 
place  it  in  the  dish,  turn  the  salmon  on  gently,  without  break- 
ing it,  and  have  it  sent  to  the  table  hot.  Serve  caper-sauce 
or  anchovy -sauce  in  a  boat. 

SALMON  CUTLETS. 

Cut  the  salmon  open,  remove  the  bone,  and  cut  the  fillets 
about  three  inches  deep.  Lay  them  to  dry  in  the  folds  of  a 
clean,  coarse  cloth.  They  may  be  broiled  or  fried.  If  fried, 
put  a  few  rashers  of  pork  in  the  pan,  or,  if  expense  is  not  to 
be  considered,  use  sweet  olive-oil.  Serve  hot,  with  pepper 
and  salt  sprinkled  over  each  cutlet. 

Haddock  is  good,  boiled  or  baked,  but  on  account  of  its 
firmness  and  lightness  is  generally  chowdered.  S,ee  Chowder. 

Salmon,  cod,  or  halibut,  after  being  scaled  and  cleaned, 
may  be  cut  into  handsome  pieces,  and  smoked  over  the  em- 
bers of  a  kitchen  fire,  rubbing  a  little  salt  over  each  bit,  and 
be  broiled  for  breakfast.  See  Broiling. 

Tautog,  or  black-fish,  may  be  baked  with  forcemeat  stuffing 
for  the  belly.  Proceed  as  for  baked  cod,  but  baste  even 
more  frequently.  Wine,  water,  and  walnut  or  mushroom 
catchup  make  a  good  baste  for  the  tautog. 

All  small  and  delicate  fish,  like  smelts,  perch,  trout,  etc., 
should,  after  being  well  dried,  be  washed  with  beaten  egg, 


FISH.  165 

and  dipped  in  grated  bread-crumbs  or  Indian  meal,  and  fried 
in  hot  lard. 

Small  sturgeons  are  considered  nicest  for  the  table,  and 
tbe  tail-piece  or  the  piece  next  the  tail  is  to  be  preferred ; 
but  whether  baked  or  boiled,  a  rich  sauce  should  be  pre- 
pared, as  the  sturgeon  is  a  dry  fish.  The  skin  should,  for 
these  dishes,  be  nicely  scraped,  and  in  sturgeon  cutlets  or 
steaks,  the  skin  should  be  removed. 

SHELL-FISH. 

Shell-fish  cannot  always  be  taken  upon  delicate  stomachs, 
yet  where  they  sit  easily,  and  are  relished,  they  are  said  to 
neutralize  acidity  in  the  stomach  more  readily  and  complete- 
ly than  any  other  animal  food. 

The  order  Molluscans  afford  a  great  variety  of  food  to 
man.  Here  are  found  the  common  clam,  mussel,  cockle,  peri- 
winkle, and  a  species  of  the  snail  genus,  much  relished  by 
the  Romans,  and  to  this  day  fattened  and  eaten  by  the 
French,  and  by  them  called  the  Escargot ;  here,  too,  is  the 
Escallop,  whose  shells  are  often  used  for  skimming  milk; 
and  last,  but  not  least,  here  is  found  the  Oyster,  which,  as  an 
article  of  food,  has  always  been  in  request. 

Among  the  Crustaceans  we  have  the  crab,  the  lobster,  the 
cray-fish,  or  thorny  lobster,  —  much  valued  by  the  French, 
and  called  by  them  Langouste,  but  which  is  but  an  inferior 
kind  of  lobster,  —  prawns,  shrimps,  and  fresh- water  cray-fish. 

Here,  as  the  most  convenient  place,  I  shall  also  briefly 
mention  the  few  animals  among  the  class  of  Reptiles  that 
yield  food  to  man,  —  the  turtle,  terrapin,  and  frog. 

OYSTERS. 

The  oyster  is  found  on  the  coasts  of  Europe,  America, 
Asia,  and  Africa.  They  seldom  leave  the  rocks  or  substances 
upon  which  they  fasten  themselves.  "  Like  other  Molluscans," 


166  PISH. 

says  the  learned  Kirby,  "  they  are  hermaphrodites,  and  are 
stated  by  Poll,  the  great  luminary  of  conchology,  to  contain 
1,200,000  eggs,  so  that  a  single  oyster  might  give  birth  to 
12,000  barrels  ! !  "  This  is  the  only  shell-fish,  as  the  same 
author  remarks,  that  man  has  made  certain  pits  or  beds  for ; 
,  such  beds  are  placed  where  salt  water  may  have  -access  to 
them  at  high  tide. 

Oysters  are  considered  by  gourmands  as  a  whetter  to  the  ap- 
petite, and  a  few  taken  before  dinner,  with  a  little  lemon-juice 
squeezed  over  each,  are  said  to  stimulate  a  languid  appetite. 

June,  July,  and  August  are  forbidden  months  for  oysters 
and  clams.  Small  oysters  are  generally  considered  the 
nicest-flavored. 

In  cooking  all  shell-fish,  great  care  is  necessary,  for  if  they 
are  overdone,  or  smothered  in  foreign  substances,  they  not  only 
lose  their  individual  piquancy,  but  are  less  easily  digested. 

Escalloped  or  Scalloped  Oysters. 

The  shell  of  the  escallop  is  sometimes  used  for  the  oyster ; 
if  not  to  be  easily  procured,  use  shallow  dishes  for  oysters 
thus  served.  Wash  the  oysters  in  their  liquor,  remove  them 
carefully  one  by  one,  strain  the  liquor  to  get  rid  of  bits  of 
shell,  return  the  oysters  to  their  liquor,  and  put  them  to  scald 
in  a  stewpan.  When  heated,  remove  them,  and  fill  your 
shells  or  dish  with  oysters,  sprinkle  them  with  bread-crumbs, 
a  little  pounded  mace,  clove,  and  slices  of  butter ;  heat  the 
liquor  again,  and  work  a  small  piece  of  butter  into  a  little 
flour,  drop  it  into  the  liquor  with  a  dust  of  cayenne  pepper, 
put  it  to  the  oysters,  and  bake  them  a  light  brown. 

Fried  Oysters. 

Wash  the  oysters  from  their  liquor,  dry  them  in  a  cloth. 
Beat  two  eggs,  and  grate  into  another  dish  a  nice  loaf  of 
baker's  bread.  Wash  each  oyster  in  the  egg,  and  roll  them 


FISH.  167 

up  and  down  in  the  bread.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  or  clarified 
butter.  When  they  are  of  a  delicate  brown,  put  them  into  a 
warm  dish,  with  pieces  of  butter  between  them,  and  a  little 
fresh  lemon-juice. 

Roasted  Oysters. 

Just  before  they  are  to  be  served,  put  them  unopened  on  a 
gridiron,  which  place  over  a  moderate  fire.  When  the  shell 
opens,  they  are  cooked.  Be  careful  to  keep  the  liquor  in  the 
shells.  Serve  on  coarse  trays  with  napkins. 

Stewed  Oysters. 

Wash  the  oysters  from  their  liquor ;  allow  the  latter  to  set- 
tle, then  strain  it  carefully,  and  add  to  it  some  whole  pepper, 
a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  and  three  cloves,  and  set  it  over  a 
moderate  fire  in  a  clean  block-tin  sauce-pan ;  mix  a  little 
flour  into  a  piece  of  butter,  stir  it  into  the  liquor,  cover  the 
pan,  and  when  the  liquor  begins  to  heat,  put  the  oysters  in, 
and  let  them  simmer  very  gently  about  five  minutes.  Have 
your  dish  hot,  and  covered  with  slices  of  bread  that  have 
been  dried,  toasted,  and  well  buttered,  and  pour  the  oysters 
over  them.  Only  rich,  juicy  oysters  will  stew  to  advantage. 

MUSSELS,  CLAMS,  ETC. 

Mussels,  Clams,  Escallops,  etc.  may  be  cooked  in  the  same 
variety  as  the  oyster,  only  they  require  more  care,  because 
there  are  coarse  parts  to  be  removed ;  they  must  be  always 
trimmed  of  the  beard,  and  tough  unwholesome  parts.  See 
Soups,  Sauces,  etc. 

LOBSTERS  AND  CRABS. 

The  best  are  heavy.  They  have  when  fresh  an  agreeable 
fresh  smell ;  the  tail  of  the  lobster  is  stiff,  and  when  pulled 
springs  back ;  the  claws  of  the  crab  will  have  the  same  elas- 
ticity; if  stale,  they  will  be  flabby,  and  the  eyes  will  look 


168  FISH. 

dead.     Fish,  however,  is  almost  invariably  presented  in  the 
United  States  in  a  fresh  and  wholesome  state. 

The  male  lobster  has  the  tail  narrower,  the  upper  fins  stiffer, 
and  the  whole  body  smaller,  than  the  hen-lobster ;  its  meat  is 
considered  the  richer,  but  the  female  is  sometimes  preferred 
for  ornamental  dishes,  on  account  of  the  spawn  and  coral. 
They  are  generally  bought  already  boiled,  being  thrown  by 
fishermen,  as  soon  as  caught,  into  boiling  water,  and  boiled 
from  thirty  to  fifty  minutes,  according  to  their  size  ;  boiled 
too  long,  they  become  tough ;  if  not  long  enough,  the  spawn 
will  not  have  an  agreeable  color.  On  being  taken  from  the 
water,  they  are  wiped  with  a  damp  cloth  rubbed  over  with 
butter  or  sweet  olive-oil,  which  is  wiped  off  afterward. 

Lobster  and  Crab  served  Cold. 

Take  off  the  claws  and  crack  them  at  the  joints,  lay  the 
body  and  tail  open  neatly  with  a  sharp  knife,  removing  the 
dark  vein,  and  what  is  vulgarly  known  as  the  lady,  and  then 
dispose  the  eatable  portions  neatly  on  the  dish.  Serve  in  a 
salad  bowl  the  following  sauce.  Rub  the  hard-boiled  yolks 
of  three  eggs  and  the  spawn  of  the  lobster  together  to  a 
paste,  add  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  cayenne,  two  large 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  olive-oil,  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  good  cider  vinegar,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  anchovy-sauce.  The  same  sauce  will  serve  for  plain 
boiled  crabs. 

Crabs  in  the  Shell. 

Take  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  body,  mince  it  very 
fine,  and  season  it  with  salt,  white  pepper,  and  a  little  pounded 
mace.  Have  the  shell  nicely  cleaned,  and  sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs into  it  with  pieces  of  butter,  put  the  meat  of  two 
crabs  into  the  shell,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Lobster  and  crab,  as  also  shrimps  and  prawns,  may  have 


FISH.  169 

their  meat  cut  into  bits,  or  minced  and  stewed  in  -white  or 
brown  gravy,  seasoning  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  be  served 
on  toasted  bread. 

The  tail  and  claws  are  favorite  parts  in  the  lobster. 

TURTLE. 

The  larger  part  of  the  turtles  used  in  the  United  States 
are  taken  off  the  Florida  coast.  The  turtle  should  be  kept 
in  water  till  to  be  killed,  then  taken  out,  suspended  by  the 
hind  fins,  and  the  head  taken  off  with  a  knife.  Allow  it  to 
bleed  several  hours ;  then  take  it  down,  cut  off  the  fins  at  the 
joint,  and  throw  them  into  scalding  water ;  next  remove  the 
under  shell  or  callipee,  and  put  it  into  another  vessel  with 
scalding  water ;  remove  the  entrails,  taking  care  not  to  break 
the  gall-bag,  and  throw  the  entrails  and  gall  away.  The  en- 
trails of  the  turtle  are  not  now  used.  Remove  with  a  knife 
the  lungs,  kidneys,  heart,  and  liver,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water,  the  liver  in  a  vessel  by  itself.  Put  the  eggs  also,  if 
there  be  any,  into  a  basin  of  cold  water. 

Remove  the  fins  and  callipee  from  the  hot  water,  and  skin 
them  first,  and  cut  the  meat  of  the  callipee  into  pieces  three 
or  four  inches  square,  breaking  the  shell,  and  removing  the 
whole  of  the  meat.  The  callipash,  or  meat  of  the  upper  shell, 
may  be  cut  smaller,  and  the  green  fat  into  quite  small  square 
pieces.  Wash  and  wipe  out  the  upper  shell. 

Having  washed  every  part  of  it,  take  the  coarser  pieces 
and  the  bone,  and  put  them,  with  a  piece  of  ham,  a  knuckle 
of  veal,  or  eight  calves'  feet,  into  a  large  pot  of  water.  Put  in 
two  or  three  onions  chopped  fine,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  sweet  marjoram  and  summer  savory.  Let 
it  simmer  slowly  four  or  five  hours,  strain  it,  and  have  the 
pot  washed  and  wiped  out.  Lay  in  it  some  of  the  reserved 
delicate  pieces,  and  the  liver  cut  up,  and  some  of  the  green 
fat,  some  forcemeat  balls,  made  of  veal,  bread-crumbs,  and 
15 


170  FISH. 

the  usual  spices,  with  a  little  grated  lemon-peel  and  beaten 
egg ;  also  the  eggs  of  the  turtle,  and  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs. 
Let  the  forcemeat-balls  and  egg-balls  be  small.  Pour  the 
strained  soup  over  the  whole,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  an 
hour.  When  it  has  thus  boiled,  cut  up  a  lemon  or  two  in 
slices,  removing  the  seed,  and  put  them  into  the  pot  with  a 
pint  of  Madeira;  let  it  simmer  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
when  put  it  into  the  tureen. 

While  the  soup  is  being  made,  let  the  finer  pieces  of  the 
turtle  be  stewing  gently  in  a  little  broth,  or  brown  gravy, 
seasoned  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  a  little  finely  pulverized 
sweet  marjoram  and  summer  savory.  Make  a  rich  paste,  and 
line  the  back  shell  with  the  paste,  ornamenting  the  edge  with 
the  same.  After  the  turtle  has  stewed  gently  for  an  hour  (add- 
ing a  very  little  more  broth,  if  it  gets  too  dry),  knead  a  little 
flour  into  a  pound  of  butter,  and  stir  into  it,  with  the  green 
fat,  some  grated  lemon-peel ;  let  it  simmer  another  hour,  take 
it  up,  stir  in  three  or  four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  a 
pint  of  Madeira  wine ;  let  it  simmer  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  longer,  then  take  it  off,  and  when  cool  put  it  into  the 
shell.  Set  the  shell,  propped  up  at  the  sides  with  bricks  or 
stones,  into  a  moderate  oven,  and  let  it  bake  a  rich  brown. 
Let  it  go  to  the  table  in  the  shell  on  a  large  dish,  at  the  same 
time  as  the  soup.  Have  lemons  sliced,  and  pickles  served  in 
small  pickle-dishes  at  the  sides  of  the  table.  In  a  turtle  pas- 
try the  meat  is  stewed  in  a  similar  manner,  and  the  whole 
of  the  top  is  covered  with  pastry  ornamented  by  the  pastry- 
cutter. 

TERRAPIN. 

These,  like  the  lobster,  are  thrown  alive  into  boiling  water. 
Let  them  remain  till  the  outer  shell  and  toe-nails  can  be  re- 
moved. Wash  them  in  warm  water,  and  boil  them,  with  a 
little  salt  to  the  water,  till  the  fleshy  part  of  the  leg  is  tender. 
They  should  be  now  removed  to  a  dish,  the  second  shell 


FLANNEL.  171 

taken  off,  and  the  sand-bag  and  the  gall  carefully  removed, 
and  the  spongy  part  be  also  cut  off.  After  having  cut  up  the 
meat  into  small  pieces,  season  it  with  salt,  cayenne,  and 
black  pepper,  and  the  yolk  of  two  eggs  to  a  terrapin,  and 
knead  a  little  flour  into  a  piece  of  butter ;  let  them  stew  gen- 
tly for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  a  gill  of  madeira  or  sherry 
for  every  terrapin,  and  a  little  browned  flour  rubbed  into  a 
bit  of  butter  ;  let  it  remain  a  few  minutes  longer  in  a  sauce- 
pan, then  put  it  hot  into  the  dish  over  slices  of  dried  toasted 
bread. 

FROG. 

Grenouilles  frites,  or  fried  frogs,  is  a  dish  which  is 
sometimes  served  in  New  England.  The  hind-quarters  of 
the  frog  only  are  used ;  soak  them,  after  washing  them  in 
warm  water,  in  cold  vinegar,  with  a  little  salt ;  let  them  re- 
main an  hour  in  the  salt  and  vinegar,  then  throw  them  in 
scalding  water,  remove  the  skin  without  tearing  the  flesh, 
wipe  them  dry,  and  fry  them  with  parsley  chopped  fine,  in 
clarified  butter  or  sweet  olive-oil ;  when  fried  a  delicate  color, 
sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  them,  and  garnish  the 
dish  with  crisped  parsley.  Frogs  are  also  sometimes  stewed 
in  the  saucepan,  with  butter,  wine,  a  little  flour,  and,  just  be- 
fore they  are  removed  from  the  fire,  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
or  three  eggs,  and  the  dish  garnished  with  finely  chopped 
crisped  parsley. 

FLANNEL.  This  material,  being  of  animal  origin,  re- 
quires, especially  when  worn  next  the  skin,  frequent  wash- 
ings. Flannel  should  be  thoroughly  wet  in  cold,  soft  water, 
and  wrung  out,  and  then  washed  in  warm  suds  made  of  hard 
soap.  Renew  the  suds  so  long  as  they  look  discolored.  The 
last  suds  need  not  be  so  strong  of  soap  as  the  previous  ones, 
but  all  should  be  hot.  Wring  flannels  dry,  and  shake  them 
well.  Press  them  well  with  a  warm  iron,  on  the  wrong 
side,  before  they  are  quite  dry. 


172  FLOWEBS. 

FLOWERS.  We  have  no  reason  to  believe  that  either 
Greeks  or  Romans  cultivated  flowers  so  far  as  to  set  apart 
ground  for  their  cultivation.  Modern  Europe  was  first  in- 
cited by  the  example  of  the  East  to  this  charming  occupa- 
tion. Turkey,  Persia,  and  China  had  long  cherished  flowers 
before  the  same  taste  had  passed  through  Constantinople, 
Italy,  Germany,  and  Holland,  and  from  this  last  into  Eng- 
land. Flora,  as  if  in  revenge  at  this  tardy  homage  from  the 
best  part  of  the  world,  yielded  to  the  humor  of  Puck,  and 
from  1 634  to  1 637  set  Commerce  off  in  a  mad  frolic,  and 
made  the  Dutchman  pay  for  the  music.  During  the  space 
alluded  to,  a  single  root  of  a  fashionable  species  of  tulip 
would  have  bought  a  handsome  farm,  and  have  stocked  it 
with  cattle,  grain,  furniture,  and  provisions. 

Flowers  are  cultivated  with  an  eye  to  effect,  or  to  botani- 
cal arrangement ;  where  the  last  is  sought,  all  the  species 
of  a  genus  are  kept  together,  though  colors  must  be  con- 
fused ;  where  effect  merely  is  looked  for,  plants  whose  season 
for  flowering  is  the  same,  and  whose  colors  contrast,  such  as 
blue  and  yellow,  red  and  green,  orange  and  purple,  are  se- 
lected. Where,  however,  colors  do  not  form  agreeable  con- 
trasts, they  may  be  softened  by  the  interposition  of  white 
flowers,  or  dark-colored  ones  that  approach  black.  So  also 
where  flowers  are  intended  for  vases  or  pots,  and  whose  back- 
ground is  to  be  the  blue  sky,  purple  and  blue  flowers  should 
be  avoided,  and  orange  and  red  flowers  chosen. 

It  is  much  to  be  wished  that  jardinieres  (though  the  au- 
thor has  found  these  in  the  parlors  of  Bangor,  Me.,  filled 
with  choicest  camellias),  and  baskets  of  flowers  suspended 
from  ceilings  and  windows,  would  take  the  place  of  expensive 
upholstery ;  even  the  first  violets  of  spring,  and  the  autumn 
leaves  and  the  blue  fringed  gentian  of  .autumn,  the  trophies 
of  pleasant  walks,  placed  about  a  room,  give  it  a  freshness 
and  cheerfulness  that  is  always  felt,  if  not  acknowledged. 


FLOWERS.  173 

The  limits  of  this  book  forbid  my  entering  far  into  this 
tempting  field;  I  shall  therefore  offer  only  a  few  hints,  as 
they  occur  to  me. 

In  watering  tender  plants,  care  should  be  taken  to  have 
the  water  of  similar  temperature  as  the  plants  to  be  watered, 
and  to  avoid  throwing  the  water  directly  on  the  collar  or 
neck  of  the  plant.  Indeed,  the  soil  is  better  to  be  kept  dry  for 
an  inch  or  two  around  such  plants,  for  moisture  on  the  collar 
frequently  leads  to  disease  in  delicate  plants.  The  collar  or 
neck,  called  sometimes  the  heart  of  the  plant,  is  the  point  of 
union  for  the  ascending  stem  and  branches,  and  the  descend- 
ing roots,  and  any  injury  done  to  this  part  of  the  plant  leads 
to  disease  or  death.  If  lime-water  is  used  to  keep  off  insects, 
the  water  should  merely  be  made  a  little  milky  in  color. 

Decayed  leaves,  that  have  been  swept  together  in  the  fall, 
and  kept  in  a  heap,  and  turned  over  once  a  month,  form  in 
about  a  year  the  vegetable  mould,  which  is  the  best  manure 
for  flowering  plants. 

Annuals  or  plants  which  live  but  one  summer  are,  when 
hardy,  sown  directly  into  the  garden-soil,  pressing  the 
ground  with  a  spade  or  saucer,  sprinkling  the  seed  thinly, 
and  covering  them  merely  with  fine  earth ;  but  the  ten- 
derer kinds  are  frequently  matured  in  pots,  and  put  into 
the  garden  to  flower,  the  first  pot  being  very  small,  the  next 
one  a  little  larger ;  and  when  the  roots  have  stuck  to  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  ball  of  earth  contained  in  the  second  pot, 
which  can  be  ascertained  by  gently  coaxing  it  into  the  hand, 
it  should  be  shifted  into  one  a  little  larger,  and  so  on  till  the 
flower-buds  begin  to  shoot,  when  it  may  at  once  be  placed  in 
the  garden,  or,  if  kept  in  the  house,  be  no  more  shifted. 
Fill  the  pots  up  with  light,  rich  mould,  and  see  that  coarse 
bits  of  crock  or  similar  matter  form  a  good  drainage  to  each 
pot.  Balsams  and  Cock's-combs  that  have  been  brought  for- 
ward in  a  healthy  manner  may  be  occasionally  watered  with 
15* 


174  FLOWERS. 

liquid  manure  ;  but  this  should  not  be  applied  to  tender  grow- 
ing annuals. 

In  transplanting,  keep  the  ball  of  earth  round  the  plant, 
and  water  it  well  for  the  first  few  days,  till  the  ground  is  set. 
Perhaps  no  garden-flower  has  more  increased  in  size  and 
beauty  of  color,  through  cultivation,  than  the  Pansy.  The 
origin  of  most  of  the  pansies  now  in  cultivation  is  from  the 
small  European  violet,  Viola  tricolor,  hybridized  by  some 
other  species.  They  may  be  grown  from  the  seed,  or  by  di- 
viding the  root.  They  require  in  warm  weather  constant 
watering,  but  the  soil  where  they  are  placed  should  be  well 
drained.  Cultivators  seem  always  to  delight  in  bringing  for- 
eign plants  home,  rather  than  in  improving  home  productions. 
The  small  white  violet  of  our  woods,  pretty  and  exquisitely 
fragrant,  has  never  been  cultivated,  and  in  England  it  is  said 
that  our  mullein-plant  is  a  conspicuous  ornament  of  conser- 
vatories. 

Biennials  are  plants  that  show  no  flower  till  the  second 
year,  and  then,  after  ripening  their  seed,  die.  I  have  been 
told  that  annuals  may  sometimes  be  made  biennial  by  keep- 
ing the  buds  back  with  thumb-pruning,  and  sowing  the  seed 
late.  Wallflowers,  Canterbury-bells,  Snapdragons,  Bromp- 
ton  Stocks,  Hollyhocks,  are  biennials,  though,  excepting  the 
Brompton  Stocks,  these  frequently  last  three  or  four  years 
from  the  first  setting  out. 

Florists'  flowers  are  such  as  attain  great  size  and  glowing 
colors  by  excessive  painstaking  in  the  culture,  and  they  are 
expected  to  hybridize  freely,  or  to  vary  much  from  seed. 
Florists  have  a  certain  coxcombry  among  themselves,  and 
may  be  seen  criticising  and  throwing  away  flowers  for  some 
alleged  defects  in  form  or  color,  unnoticed,  because  unknown, 
to  vulgar  eyes ;  thus,  if  the  Dahlia  shows  any  green  in  the 
centre,  it  is  worthless ;  if  in  the  Auricula  or  Polyanthus  the 
style  projects  beyond  the  stamens,  such  are  called  pin-eyed, 


FOWLS.  175 

and  are  of  no  value.  The  flowers  which  have  been  most 
successfully  pampered  by  florists  are  the  Hyacinth,  the  Tulip, 
the  Dahlia,  the  Auricula,  the  Polyanthus,  the  Carnation,  the 
Pink,  the  Ranunculus,  the  Anemone,  the  Geraniums  or  Pe- 
largoniums, the  Pansies,  the  Calceolarias,  and  the  Chrysan- 
themums. 

We  have  seen  that  flowers  lend  their  aid  to  the  dyer,  and 
that  fomentations  are  often  made  of  the  flowers  and  leaves 
of  plants.  Colchicum,  a  bulbous-rooted  plant,  the  flower  of 
which  resembles  the  Crocus,  affords  a  medicine  used  for 
rheumatism  and  the  gout;  but  as  in  large  quantities  it  is 
poisonous,  the  extract  should  never  be  taken  without  medi- 
cal advice. 

For  those  who  wish  to  pursue  the  science  of  Botany,  the 
works  of  Professor  Gray  of  Cambridge,  and  Professor  Tor- 
rey  of  New  York,  will  be  of  valuable  assistance,  while  the 
amateur  gardener,  whose  time  is  limited,  will  find  present 
help  in  Mrs.  Loudoun's  "  Companion  to  the  Flower  Gar- 
den," adapted  by  Downing  to  the  wants  of  this  country. 

FOWLS.  The  domestic  fowls  reared  for  food  are  com- 
monly divided  into, — 

1.  Gallinaceae,  the  Cock  kind,  comprehending  the  Common 
Cock,  the  Turkey,  the  Guinea-fowl,  the  Peacock,  and  the 
Pigeon. 

2.  Palmipedes,  the  Web-footed  kinds,  comprehending  the 
Duck,  the  Goose,  and  the  Swan. 

The  Swan  and  the  Peacock  are  now  only  reared  for  their 
beauty,  and  not  for  economical  purposes. 

The  Domestic  Cock  (Phasianus  gallus)  is,  among  the  gal- 
linaceous fowls,  the  first  in  importance.  The  origin  of  this 
valuable  bird  is  unknown,  though  the  Jungle-fowl  of  India  is 
supposed  to  be  the  original  breed;  but  it  adapts  itself  to  every 
climate  except  the  polar.  The  differences  in  this  tribe  are 


176  FOWLS. 

principally  shown  in  their  plumage  :  one  breed  has  a  tuft  of 
feathers  on  the  head  ;  the  little  Bantam  has  his  legs  covered 
with  feathers ;  the  Rumplets  have  no  tail ;  the  Friesland 
Hen  has  the  feathers  on  her  body  recurved ;  another  breed, 
called  the  Silk-hens,  instead  of  feathers,  are  dressed  in  a  kind 
of  silken  hair.  Some  of  these  breeds  are  more  curious  than 
useful.  The  Friesland  or  Frizzled  Hen,  as  it  is  commonly 
called  on  account  of  the  appearance  of  its  ruffled  plumage, 
and  which  does  not  love  a  cold  climate,  and  the  little  Ban- 
tam, feathered  to  the  toe,  are  valued  mostly  for  their  beauty, 
though  they  are  delicate  eating. 

The  approved  varieties  of  fowls  are  numerous.  The 
Dorking  Fowls  of  England,  so  called  from  a  town  in  Surrey, 
near  which  they  were  raised,  are  among  the  most  popular. 
When  of  pure  breed,  they  have  five  claws  on  each  foot,  are 
large  in  the  body,  their  color  is  white,  and  they  are  generous 
layers. 

The  Poland  Fowls  are  regarded  as  equally  valuable  with 
the  Dorking,  but  they  are  less  inclined  to  set  than  those  of  any 
other  breed.  "  Their  color,"  says  Professor  Low,  "  is  black, 
their  heads  flat,  and  surmounted  with  a  crown  of  feathers." 
They  are  good  layers. 

Among  the  larger  breeds  we  find  the  Great  Malay  Fowl, 
and  the  Chittagong  breed,  which  is  held  now  to  be  a  distinct 
breed  from  the  Great  Malay,  and  to  possess  more  desirable 
points,  having  a  more  capacious  body,  more  delicate  flesh, 
and  maturing  earlier  than  the  Malay  variety.  The  Chinese 
fowls,  consisting  of  the  Cochin  China  breed  and  the  Shang- 
hae  fowls,  have  been  successfully  crossed  with  the  common 
domestic  breeds. 

The  hatching  period  is  twenty-one  days  ;  during  this  period, 
the  hen  should  have  food  and  fresh  water  placed  near  her. 
She  inclines  to  eat  but  little  during  this  time,  and  when  she 
has  perfected  her  brood,  she  should  be  well  fed  on  scalded 
meal,  boiled  rice,  and  similar  substances. 


FOWLS.  177 

The  moulting  period  succeeds  to  the  labors  of  prolific  lay- 
ing and  incubation.  It  lasts  from  one  to  three  months,  during 
which  time  the  female  generally  ceases  to  lay,  or  does  so 
rarely,  and  seems  languid  and  depressed. 

A  hen  is  old  at  four  years,  and  in  her  fifth  year  should 
make  way  for  younger  birds.  A  cock  should  never  exceed 
three  years  ;  if  well  fed,  and  of  good  breed,  he  matures  at 
three  months. 

To  have  a  desirable  breed  of  fowls,  the  finest-formed  hen 
should  be  chosen  (or  a  thoroughly  matured  pullet)  for  breed- 
ing purposes,  and  the  cock  changed  yearly,  so  as  to  avoid 
what  is  called  "  in  and  in  "  breeding.  If  pullets  are  used, 
they  should  be  well  matured ;  otherwise  the  breed  will  be 
small,  tender,  and  consequently  difficult  to  raise. 

Fowls,  when  confined,  should  have  a  building  placed  above 
ground,  that  may  be  easily  ventilated.  Their  floor  should 
be  covered  with  wood  ,or  coal  ashes,  and  the  interior  of  their 
building  should  be  white-washed  two  or  three  times  every 
year,  and  cleaned  once  a  week.  Avoid  too  much  glass, 
which  gives  an  unnatural  heat,  and  creates  distempers. 
Keep  them  dry,  supply  them  with  fresh  water  daily,  and  a 
variety  in  their  food.  When  cooped  and  unable  to  procure 
insects,  supply  them  with  animal  food,  and  feed  them  three 
times  a  day.  A  little  cayenne-pepper  mixed  with  Indian- 
meal  dough  may  be  given  to  them  occasionally  during  the 
winter  season.  Gravel  should  be  within  thei?r  reach,  and 
oyster-shells,  or  similar  substances,  pounded  fine,  should  be 
scattered  about  the  coop. 

In  selecting  eggs  for  hatching,  take  those  of  medium  .size, 
that  you  believe  have  been  rendered  productive ;  the  large 
egg  of  corresponding  size  at  both  ends,  contains  double  yolks, 
which,  instead  of  bringing  twin  chickens,  produce  morisjrosi- 
ties.  It  is  said  that  the  position  of  the  air-cell,  discovered 
by  holding  the  egg  between  the  light  of  a  candle  and  your 


178  FOWLS. 

eye,  indicates  the  sex  of  the  bird;  if  on  one  side,  it  will  be  fe- 
male ;  if  in  the  exact  apex,  a  male. 

Do  not  attempt  to  turn  the  eggs ;  the  hen  can  do  this  best 
herself.  It  is  poor  economy  to  place  too  many  eggs  under 
one  hen,  though  of  course  a  large  hen  can  cover  more  than 
a  smaller  bird ;  but  the  large  brood  often  get  trodden  on  by 
the  mother,  and  they  are  less  healthy  and  vigorous,  on  ac- 
count of  being  half  starved  during  incubation. 

Yellow  or  brownish  colored  eggs  are  mostly  produced  by 
hens  of  Southern  breed,  and  the  white  alabaster  egg,  by 
Northern  breeds.  There  is  a  superstition  among  many  farm- 
er-wives, with  regard  to  the  number  of  eggs  for  hatching ; 
they  always  choose  an  odd  number,  nine  and  thirteen  being 
more  desirable  than  eight  or  twelve. 

The  young  chickens  must  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  cold 
or  moisture,  and  fed  for  the  first  few  days  on  rice  boiled  dry, 
or  Indian  meal  boiled  and  given  not  too  moist.  Water 
should  be  placed  in  shallow  plates.  They  should  be  kept 
from  the  damp  grass. 

BOILED  FOWL. 

Put  it  into  water  that  the  chill  has  been  taken  off  from, 
after  having  trussed  the  fowl  handsomely,  and  add  to  the 
water  a  small  piece  of  pork,  that  has  been  previously  put  into 
cold  water  and  boiled  in  a  saucepan  for  half  an  hour ;  skim 
the  water,  and  add  it  to  the  pot  with  the  pork.  Let  the  fowl 
simmer,  if  it  be  large,  an  hour  and  a  half.  Make  an  egg 
sauce,  which  serve  in  a  boat. 

Boiled  fowls  are  sometimes  filled,  after  being  trussed,  in 
the  crop  and  body  with  oysters.  In  this  case  the  oysters  are 
kept  in  by  tying  twine  round,  and  placing  the  fowl  in  a  jar, 
which  is  put  into  a  kettle  of  water,  where  it  is  boiled  hard 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Make  a  sauce,  in  a  saucepan,  of  the 
gravy  which  will  be  found  in  the  jar,  by  kneading  a  little 


FOWLS.  179 

flour  into  a  lump  of  butter,  chopping  a  few  oysters,  and  when 
it  begins  to  heat,  adding  half  a  cup  of  cream,  and  the  beaten 
yolk  of  two  eggs.  Stir  it,  and  remove  when  it  comes  to  a 
boil.  Serve  in  a  boat. 

ROAST  FOWL. 

Having  dressed  and  trussed  them,  place  them  before  a 
good  fire,  with  a  little  salt  put  to  a  pan  of  water,  or  if  you 
have  a  tin-kitchen,  put  the  salted  water  directly  into  the 
bottom  of  it.  Baste  with  this  \vater  till  the  fowls  begin  to 
brown,  when  baste  "with  fresh  butter.  Make  the  gravy  by 
boiling  the  necks,  gizzards,  hearts,  and  liver;  remove  the 
first,  and  chop  the  giblets  fine ;  thicken  with  browned  flour, 
rubbed  into  a  piece  of  butter.  Serve  in  a  boat. 

The  Turkey  (Meleagris  gallo-pavo)  was  found  in  America 
by  the  Spaniards.  In  his  wild  state  this  bird  is  black  in 
plumage,  variegated  with  bronze  and  glossy  green,  and  the 
extremities  of  his  quills  are  tipped  with  white. 

While  young  they  are  exceedingly  tender,  and  if  not 
properly  cared  for  die  off  rapidly.  The  turkey-hen  lays  from 
twelve  to  twenty  eggs  ;  she  seeks"  out-of-the-way  places  to  lay, 
and  must  be  watched,  her  egg  removed  daily,  and  a  porcelain 
one  substituted. 

When  the  turkey-hen  desires  to  set,  she  must  be  cooped 
if  she  evinces  restlessness,  and  her  eggs  be  placed  under  her. 
The  turkey  sets  on  her  eggs  thirty  days.  When  the  young 
are  pipped  or  born,  they  must  never  be  handled,  but  be  kept 
dry  and  warm,  and  be  fed  on  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  milk, 
or  scalded  meal,  and  boiled  rice.  Separate  the  hen  from 
her  young,  otherwise  she  will  devour  their  food.  The 
turkey  is  a  close  setter,  and  should  be  supplied  with  fresh 
food  and  water ;  but  after  her  young  are  hatched,  she  is  apt 
to  take  them  to  great  distances,  without  measuring  their 
ability  to  keep  pace  with  herself;  for  this  reason,  it  is  better 


180  FOWLS. 

to  keep  the  mother  cooped  till  her  little  ones  have  estab- 
lished their  strength.  The  common  hen  often  has  the  eggs 
of  the  turkey  and  duck  given  her  to  bring  out.  Turkeys 
roost  very  high,  and  require  large  perches  for  their  talons  to 
grasp.  If  cooped,  their  house  should  be  well  ventilated. 
The  practice  of  cramming  turkeys  is  mostly  gone  by ;  they 
fatten  readily  when  cooped,  and  fed  frequently  on  fresh  food. 
They  like  meal  made  into  a  thick  paste,  corn,  boiled  potatoes 
mixed  with  meal,  buckwheat,  boiled  beans,  rice,  and  milk 
curd ;  also  wheat  and  barley.  Fifteen  pounds  is  a  good 
weight  for  a  turkey,  but  they  are  sometimes,  by  high  feeding, 
brought  to  twenty  and  thirty  pounds. 

BOILED  TURKEY. 

Put  the  turkey  into  a  kettle  of  water,  from  which  the  chill 
has  been  taken.  Cover  it  close,  and  put  it  over  the  fire ; 
when  the  scum  begins  to  rise,  skim  it.  Simmer  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  then  take  it  off,  and  keep  it  covered  close  in 
the  hot  water ;  if  of  middling  size,  the  confined  steam  will 
cook  it  enough  in  half  an  hour,  and  keep  the  skin  whole,  ten- 
der, and  white.  Put  it  over  the  fire  again,  just  before  it  is 
to  be  sent  to  the  table.  Serve  with  oyster-sauce  in  a  boat. 
You  may,  if  you  choose,  stuff  the  craw,  after  trussing  it,  with 
bread-crumbs,  chopped  oyster,  a  little  mace  and  salt  moist- 
ened with  egg,  serving  up  the  turkey,  and  proceeding  pre- 
cisely as  above  directed. 

ROAST  TURKEY. 

Roast  turkeys  as  you  do  fowls  ;  but  a  forcemeat  stuffing  is 
always  made  for  the  craw,  and  previous  to  trussing,  the 
breast-bone  is  broken,  and  the  sinews  drawn  from  the  legs. 

The  Pintado  or  Guinea-fowl  (Numida  meleagris)  is,  as  its 
name  indicates,  a  native  of  Africa.  It  is  reared  in  Virginia, 
where  its  strange  cry  is  thought  to  keep  off  birds  of  prey. 


FOWLS.  181 

It  is  shy,  and  loves  to  wander  in  the  woods.  It  lays  a 
brown-shelled  egg,  smaller,  but  richer,  than  the  egg  of  the 
common  hen.  She  endeavors  to  secrete  her  eggs  till  she 
hatches  her  brood.  Her  eggs  are  sometimes  given  to  the 
common  hen  to  hatch.  Her  little  ones  are  tender,  and  there- 
fore early  spring  is  not  so  favorable  for  rearing  them  as  a 
more  advanced  period  in  the  season.  Twenty-eight  days  is 
the  period  of  incubation  with  the  Guinea-hen,  but  it  is  better 
to  have  the  eggs  hatched  by  the  common  gallinaceous  fowl, 
as  the  male  of  the  Guinea-hen,  like  the  pheasant,  has  a  pro- 
pensity to  destroy  the  eggs  of  the  female. 

The  flesh  of  this  fowl  is  delicate,  if  taken  before  it  is  tough 
and  old ;  then  it  is  not  desirable,  even  for  the  pot.  It  is 
roasted  like  the  common  fowl. 

The  Common  Pigeon  (Columba  livia),  on  account  of  its 
gentleness  and  trustfulness,  is  a  great  favorite  ;  but,  says  Pro- 
fessor Low,  'l  nothing  beyond  the  gratification  of  luxury  can  be 
derived  from  the  cultivation  of  the  domestic  pigeon  for  food. 
In  vain  has  it  been  asserted,  that  pigeons  do  not  feed  upon 
green  corn,  cannot  dig  into  the.  earth  with  their  bills,  do  little 
harm  to  the  cultivated  crops,  and  consume  only  the  seeds  of 
injurious  plants.  The  experience  of  farmers  shows  that  the 
damage  done  by  these  creatures  to  our  various  crops  of 
wheat,  pease,  and  beans  is  very  great ;  and  certainly  the 
waste  is  in  no  degree  compensated  for  by  the  quantity  which 
the  animals  afford  of  human  food." 

Wild  pigeons,  however,  form  indifferent  food  when  com- 
pared with  the  flesh  of  the  well-fed  domestic  pigeon. 

The  common  pigeon  domesticated,  begins  generally  to 
breed  at  nine  months,  pairing  and  breeding  monthly,  the  fe- 
male laying  two  eggs,  which  ordinarily  are  male  and  female. 
One  pair  generally  affords  the  breeder  nine  pairs  annually, 
for  four  years.  Their  coops  should  be  airy,  and  kept  with 
great  neatness.  There  are  various  breeds  of  pigeons,  which 
16 


182  FOWLS. 

are  valuable  to  the  bird-fancier,  as  flowers  are  to  florists,  for 
certain  monstrosities  and  deviations  from  the  usual  laws  of 
nature.  Thus  the  English  Pouter,  that  swells  his  crop  to  a 
fearful  distention,  and  the  Fantail,  that  makes  his  tail-feathers 
adorn  his  head  like  a  halo,  is  of  exceeding  value  to  \hz  fan- 
cier of  birds. 

Domestic  pigeons  are  nice  broiled,  roasted,  or  even  boiled 
plain  and  served  with  butter-sauce  in  a  boat,  but  wild  pig- 
eons are  only  eatable,  potted  or  braised.  Young  squabs  of 
the  tame  pigeon,  when  drawn,  and  the  craw  extracted,  and 
washed  through  several  waters,  may  be  cut  open  in  the 
back,  skewered  and  broiled  quickly,  and  sent  to  the  table 
with  a  little  pepper  and  a  bit  of  butter  put  to  each  squab. 
See  Game. 

Among  the  web-footed  domestic  fowls,  the  Duck  holds  a 
conspicuous  place.  The  Wild  Duck  or  Mallard  (Anas  bos- 
chas)  is  the  original  of  our  common  duck ;  in  its  wild  state  it 
pairs,  in  its  domesticated  condition  becomes  polygamous,  but 
retains  some  of  its  shyness,  for  the  female  lays  away  from  the 
house,  and  secretes  her  eggs.  While  hatching,  she  should 
not  be  disturbed ;  but  when  her  young  are  out,  and  she  will 
no  longer  be  induced  to  keep  them  in  the  nest,  she  must  be 
watched,  and  not  allowed  to  keep  her  little  brood  out  long,  as 
the  heat  and  the  night  dews  cannot  be  endured  by  them  with 
impunity.  The  duck  brings  out  her  young  in  a  month,  when 
she  should  be  well  fed,  and  have  a  flat  dish  given  her  with 
water  for  her  little  ones,  renewing  the  water  frequently,  and 
giving  the  ducklings  meal  paste,  or  boiled  rice.  If  the  eggs 
of  the  duck  are  given  to  the  common  fowl,  the  brood  of 
ducklings  must  be  looked  to,  for,  disregarding  the  call  of  the 
hen,  they  will  otherwise  remain  too  long  in  the  water,  get 
chilled  through,  and  die.  As  ducks  are  gross  feeders,  eating 
animal  and  vegetable  substances  of  all  kinds,  before  being 
killed  for  the  table  their  food  should  for  some  weeks  be 
selected  for  them. 


FOWLS.  183 

The  Muscovy  Duck  or  Musk  Duck  (Anas  moschata)  is  a 
native  of  South  America.  He  is  larger  than  the  common 
duck,  a  huge  feeder,  and  cannibalish  in  his  habits,  the  au- 
thor having  seen  the  Musk  Drake  swallow  small  chicks. 
This  duck  is  very  prolific,  and  fattens  readily,  but  the  flesh 
is  not  superior  to  the  common  well-fed  duck.  It  is  a  hand- 
some bird  and  a  valuable  variety.  Ducks  are  favored  by 
gardeners,  as  they  eat  caterpillars  and  insects,  and  do  no 
harm  to  vegetables  that  have  got  fairly  started.  Celery  and 
parsley  is  sometimes  sown  round  the  ponds  of  ducks.  Wild 
celery  is  said  to  give  the  exquisite  flavor  to  the  wild  Canvas- 
back  Duck. 

DUCK  EOASTED. 

The  ducks  being  picked,  drawn,  and  singed,  stuff  the  body 
with  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed  smoothly ;  moisten  with 
cream,  and  season  with  pepper,  a  little  onion  chopped  very 
fine,  and  salt ;  put  them  down  to  a  good  fire,  with  water  in 
the  pan  of  the  roaster  season  the  water  with  a  little  salt, 
and  baste  them  with  this  liquid ;  if  fat,  they  will  require  no 
butter.  Make  the  gravy  with  the  chopped  giblets  that  have 
been  boiled  tender,  the  water  from  the  pan  seasoned  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  mushroom  catchup,  and  thickened  with  a 
little  browned  flour.  Serve  hot.  Have  lemons  in  side-dishes, 
cut  in  two.  Half  an  hour  before  a  good  fire  will  cook  ducks. 

The  Domestic  Goose  is  the  Wild  Goose  (Anas  anser)  do- 
mesticated. In  marshy  districts  it  is  reared  without  trouble. 
The  female  sits  on  her  nest  when  hatching  from  twenty- 
seven  to  thirty  days,  covering  eleven,  and  sometimes  fifteen 
eggs.  Kept  with  ordinary  care,  regularly  but  not  grossly 
fed,  the  female  lays  a  hundred  eggs  annually.  The  careful 
hen  sometimes  has  the  eggs  of  the  goose,  as  well  as  duck's 
and  turkey's  eggs,  given  to  her  to  hatch,  though  she  cannot 
cover  more  than  six ;  but  as  the  goose  is  valuable,  and  her 


184  FOWLS. 

eggs  but  little  used  in  the  kitchen,  the  assistance  of  the  hen 
is  often  desirable,  especially  as  the  goose  generally  inclines 
to  hatch  but  once  a  year.  Besides  grasses  and  herbs,  geese 
like  corn,  and  indeed  most  farinaceous  substances  and  edible 
roots,  such  as  turnips,  potatoes,  carrots,  and  the  refuse  of  the 
garden,  such  as  cabbage-leaves,  lettuce,  and  similar  food. 

Goslings  are  tender  for  the  first  few  weeks,  and  should  be 
fed,  for  some  days  after  they  are  hatched,  on  meal  paste,  or 
boiled  rice,  or  bread  soaked  in  milk,  if  convenient,  if  not,  in 
water,  and  kept  cooped ;  and  when  they  begin  to  go  out,  it 
should  not  be  till  the  dew  is  off  the  ground,  and  they  should 
be  driven  gently  home  before  the  sun  is  down. 

The  cruel  practice  of  plucking  feathers  from  the  goose 
while  the  bird  is  alive,  used  to  be  indulged  in  as  often  as  five 
times  a  year,  but  is  now  discontinued. 

One  gander  is  generally  allowed  to  five  geese.  When 
confined,  they  should  have  roomy  coops  or  cribs ;  space 
enough  to  flap  their  wings  and  to  get  out  of  the  noonday 
sun  ;  they  should  have  their  floor  fresh  littered  with  clean 
straw,  be  fed  frequently,  and  have  a  trough  of  well-supplied 
pure  water. 

A  green  goose  is  a  goose  four  or  six  weeks  old.  It  makes 
a  very  nice  dish. 

ROAST  GOOSE. 

If  old  it  should  be  kept  a  few  days,  and  parboiled  before 
roasting ;  but  otherwise,  by  no  means,  as  it  dries  the  flesh. 
When  drawn,  singed,  and  dried  with  a  cloth,  after  thorough 
washing,  make  a  stuffing  for  the  body  thus  :  Take  four  or  five 
onions,  and  the  liver  that  has  been  parboiled  in  the  saucepan, 
mince  them  in  the  chopping  tray,  add  to  them  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  mashed  potatoes,  a  bit  of  butter,  and  two  beaten  eggs  ; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  pulverized  sage.  If  the  gravy 
is  made  of  the  water  in  the  pan  and  the  drippings  of  the 


FRITTERS    AND    PANCAKES.  185 

bird,  skim  it  carefully  before  thickening  with  browned  flour. 
Many  prefer  a  gravy  made  of  hot  claret  wine,  poured  upon 
the  goose  by  the  carver.  The  stuffings  for  geese  are  various  ; 
the  French  use  boiled  rice,  and  chestnuts,  with  the  liver, 
sometimes  frying  them  in  sweet  lard  before  stuffing  the 
goose  with  them. 

Green  geese  are  roasted  in  the  same  way,  only  less  highly 
seasoned  with  onion,  sage,  and  pepper,  and  bread-crumbs  are 
substituted  instead  of  potatoes  for  the  stuffing.  Serve  apple- 
sauce or  gooseberry-sauce  with  goose.  An  hour  and  a  half 
before  a  good  fire  should  be  given  to  a  large  goose,  but  a 
green  goose  is  generally  cooked  in  an  hour. 

FRITTERS  AND  PANCAKES.  In  preparing  these 
articles,  which  may  be  varied  to  an  almost  endless  extent, 
you  should  make  your  frying-pan  hot,  then  rub  it  with  a  but- 
tered cloth,  or  put  a  little  beef-dripping  in  the  pan,  and  wipe 
it  out ;  then  put  in  your  piece  of  butter,  lard,  or  clarified  beef- 
fat,  and  when  it  froths,  have  ready  your  ladle  of  batter,  toss 
the  pan  round,  and  run  a  knife  round  the  edges  of  the  cake, 
turning  it  when  it. is  a  light  brown.  As  the  fat  boils  away, 
take  the  pan  off,  wipe  it  out,  and  proceed  as  at  first.  Re- 
move fritters  from  the  frying-pan  with  a  perforated  skimmer, 
and  drain  them  well. 

OYSTER  FRITTERS. 

Take  a  pint  of  rich  milk,  stir  into  it  alternately  an  ounce 
of  melted  butter,  and  six  well-beaten  eggs,  and  flour  enough 
to  make  a  thick  batter.  Wash  the  oysters  from  their  liquor, 
and  dry  them  on  a  cloth ;  to  each  ladleful  of  batter,  put  an 
oyster,  and  fry  them  quickly  a  rich  brown  color. 

SALSIFY  AND  CORN  FRITTERS. 

The  flavor  of  oyster  is  thought  to  be  found  in  salsify,  and 
in  green  corn  grated  from  the  cob.     Prepare  salsify  fritters 
16* 


186  FRYING. 

by  cutting  the  roots  in  thin  pieces  and  boiling  them  in  milk 
and  water ;  when  soft,  mash  them  smoothly,  removing  stringy 
bits  ;  stir  the  salsify  into  a  batter  made  with  a  pint  of  milk, 
two  eggs,  and  flour  enough  to  make  it  stiff.  Fry  them  in  fat 
of  salt-pork,  or  in  butter.  Where  corn  is  used,  it  should  be 
young  and  tender. 

VICTORIA  FRITTERS. 

Take  a  loaf  of  baker's  bread,  slice  it  into  pieces  an  inch 
thick,  cut  each  slice  in  the  centre,  trimming  off  the  crust,  and 
place  the  bread  on  a  flat  dish.  Take  a  quart  of  rich  milk, 
a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  eight  beaten  eggs,  stir  the  whole  to- 
gether, strain  it,  and  pour  it. over  the  bread  several  hours 
before  dinner,  that  the  bread  may  be  equally  moistened. 
Fry  in  hot  butter  a  delicate  brown,  and  eat  with  a  sweet 
wine-sauce. 

PANCAKES. 

These  may  be  made  of  rice-flour,  boiled  in  milk  till  it  is 
thick.  To  three  ounces  of  rice-flour,  put  a  quart  of  rich 
milk,  and  when  cool,  stir  in  four  beaten  eggs,  and  sifted  flour 
enough  to  make  the  batter  a  little  stiff.  Drain  them  as  you 
fry  them,  and  sift  sugar  over  each  cake.  Send  them  to  the 
table  hot. 

Indian  meal  boiled  as  above  directed,  and,  when  cold, 
mixed  in  the  following  proportions,  to  a  quart  of  the  sifted 
meal,  five  beaten  eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  and 
sifted  flour  enough  to  make  a  thick  batter,  may  be  fried 
either  as  fritters  or  pancakes.  Boiled  rice,  or  fine  hominy 
that  has  been  left  from  dinner,  mixed  with  flour,  milk,  eggs, 
and  a  little  salt,  makes  good  breakfast  fritters. 

FRYING.  Whatever  fat  is  used  for  frying  should  be 
sweet,  the  frying-pan  should  be  a  little  thick  at  the  bottom, 


FUEL.  187 

the  fire  not  too  fierce,  free  from  smoke,  and  capable  of  keep- 
ing up  a  sustained  heat.  Always  have  the  pan  gradually 
heated  with  a  little  fat,  and  wiped  out  before  the  fat  for  fry- 
ing is  added  ;  ascertain  the  heat  of  the  fat  by  dipping  the  tip 
of  a  fish-tail  in,  or  by  throwing  in  a  bit  of  bread  ;  if  they 
quickly  crisp,  the  fat  is  ready.  Fat  that  has  been  used  for 
meat  may,  if  strained  from  the  sediment,  be  used  again  for 
fish.  Wire-framed  baskets  that  fit  the  frying-pan,  rising 
about  half  an  inch  from  it,  are  now  much  used  for  frying. 
Sweet  olive-oil,  butter,  lard,  top-fat  (the  skimming  of  pots  in 
which  meat  has  been  boiled),  and  drippings  of  roast  meat, 
may  all,  with  proper  attention  to  sweetness  and  their  free- 
dom from  foreign  substances,  be  used  for  frying.  Butter  is 
improved  by  clarifying,  as  then  the  watery  and  milky  prop- 
erties which  cause  it  to  scorch  and  burn  are  removed.  But- 
ter is  desirable  for  sweet  things,  such  as  fritters,  though  sweet 
lard,  or  good-olive  oil,  if  it  can  be  afforded,  is  nearly  as  good ; 
the  kidney-fat  of  beef,  cut  into  pieces,  melted,  and  strained, 
should  be  saved  for  frying.  Olive-oil  can  only  be  used  once, 
and  is  therefore  every  way  expensive.  It  is  best  to  have 
the  pan  filled  to  three  or  four  inches  deep  with  fat ;  then  the 
materials  fry  all  over  quickly ;  whereas  if  only  a  little  is  put 
in,  it  is  more  apt  to  scorch,  and  the  substances  cooking  ab- 
sorb too  much  of  the  fat.  What  fat  is  not  used  should  be 
strained  while  hot  into  an  earthen  jar,  and  covered  closely 
from  the  air  and  dust  as  soon  as  it  cools.  Never  put  any- 
thing into  the  frying-pan  till  the  fat  is  hot  enough  to  cook  it 
all  over  briskly. 

FUEL.  Fuel  is  chiefly  valuable  according  to  its  weight, 
its  power  of  burning  without  leaving  much  incombustible 
matter,  and  its  freedom  from  watery  fluid.  Green  wood  and 
wet  coal  should  never  be  burned  on  the  principle  of  econo- 
my ;  such  materials  absorb  the  heat  to  convert  their  moisture 
into  steam. 


188  FURS. 

The  Lehigh  and  all  anthracite  coals,  being  destitute  of 
the  volatile  matter  contained  in  bituminous  coals,  are  more 
difficult  to  ignite  than  these  ;  therefore  to  bring  them  to  the 
high  temperature  necessary  for  combustion  requires  the  aid 
of  the  lighter  woods  and  charcoal.  Housekeepers  who  use 
furnaces  to  warm  their  houses  require  from  seventy  to  nine- 
ty bushels  of  charcoal,  the  quantity  varying  with  the  size  of 
the  house  to  be  warmed. 

Charcoal,  made  newly  from  the  heavier  kinds  of  wood,  as 
oak  and  walnut,  is  a  powerful,  and,  for  many  culinary  pro- 
cesses, an  economical  sort  of  fuel. 

Wood  dried  under  cover  is  more  free  from  decomposition 
than  that  dried  in  the  open  air. 

Hickory  or  walnut  is  the  best  of  our  native  trees  for  fuel, 
and  commands,  consequently,  the  highest  price  ;  beech,  ma- 
ple, yellow  birch,  all  the  species  of  oak,  and  locust,  form  good 
fuels.  Chestnut  is  unsafe  as  a  fuel,  on  account  of  its  snap- 
ping, and  throwing  its  coals  to  the  extremity  of  a  room. 
White  ash,  though  capable  of  burning  well,  is  used  principally 
for  the  arts,  for  oars,  carriages,  the  handles  of  instruments, 
&c.  Black  birch  is  also  a  compact  wood,  but  valuable  prin- 
cipally for  furniture,  for  screws,  and  implements  requiring 
strength. 

FURS.  These  articles,  like  the  precious  jewels,  vary  in 
value  as  regulated  by  fashion.  Ermine  and  sable,  and  the 
court  fur  minever,  which  is  said  to  be  more  becoming  than 
ermine,  have,  however,  long  held  the  ascendency.  The  va- 
rieties of  sable  are  Russian,  Hudson's  Bay,  and  Canadian ; 
ermine  and  minever  are  Russian  furs  ;  the  curling  chinchil- 
la^ used  mostly  for  children  and  misses,  is  from  Peru.  Stone- 
martin,  whose  varying  brown  constantly  discloses,  in  the  ac- 
cess of  every  breeze,  the  downy  white  of  its  under  surface, 
the  mink,  a  sort  of  plebeian  sable,  the  silver-gray  fox  of 


GAME.  189 

Oregon,  and  the  blue  fox,  are  all  American  furs,  as  are  also 
the  several  species  of  lynx,  the  durable  yellow  and  black  fitz, 
and  the  gray-squirrel  furs. 

In  putting  away  furs,  they  should  be  well  shaken,  and  put 
into  a  close  box,  either  with  leaf-tobacco,  crude  camphor, 
black  pepper,  or  cayenne,  and  sewed  up  in  Russian  sheeting, 
or  the  cover  pasted  on  with  flour-paste  (taking  coarse  paper), 
and  the  box  be  put  into  a  clean,  cool,  dark  closet. 

GAME.  Good  wild  game  finds  ready  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets of  the  United  States,  and  the  large  cities  are  plentifully 
supplied  by  the  contributions  of  the  West,  the  Canadas,  and 
Europe. 

Venison  ranks  among  choice  game  where  salmon  does 
with  the  fish  tribe.  The  haunch  and  the  saddle  of  venison 
are  roasted,  while  the  shoulder  and  breast  pieces  are  stewed, 
or  used  for  pies.  In  roasting,  the  hard  skin  should  be  re- 
moved ;  then  rub  the  piece  all  over  with  a  little  table-salt, 
butter  thick  sheets  of  coarse  white  paper,  and  cover.  It  re- 
quires constant  attention,  as  it  should  be  turned  and  basted 
frequently.  When  nearly  cooked,  take  off  the  paper,  and 
baste  with  claret  wine,  butter,  and  a  sprinkling  of  flour. 

Venison  eaten  with  blazers  should  be  underdone ;  a  haunch 
of  medium  size  is»cooked  in  one  hour  and  a  half,  but  for  hot 
plates  should  be  cooked  from  two  to  three  hours.  Currant- 
jelly  is  an  indispensable  accompaniment  of  venison,  and  is 
often  used  instead  of  wine  for  the  gravy.  Venison  eats  best 
when  it  is  freshly  killed  ;  when  it  is  old,  it  is  hard,  black-look- 
ing, with  the  rich  juices  gone  out  of  it. 

Venison  steak  should  be  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt, 
dipped  in  butter  or  olive-oil,  and  rubbed  into  bread-crumbs, 
and  cooked  quickly  on  a  heated  gridiron  that  has  been  rubbed 
with  beef-suet.  If  the  venison  is  not  fat,  make  a  gravy  of 
wine,  flour,  and  butter,  or  of  currant- wine.  Serve  hot. 


190  GAME. 

The  Hare  of  America  is  common  in  many  parts  of  the 
Union  ;  in  summer  its  fur  is  brown  and  ash-colored,  in  winter 
it  is  white,  and  much  longer  than  in  summer.  It  breeds  sev- 
eral times  during  the  year,  and  in  the  Southern  States  during 
the  winter  months,  and  has  sometimes  a  litter  of  six.  It  is 
not  so  highly  esteemed  here  as  in  the  old  country.  It  is 
taken  in  the  same  manner  as  the  gray  rabbit,  by  springes, 
traps,  nets,  and  »also  by  the  gun.  If  hares  and  rabbits  are 
young,  the  ears  are  easily  slit,  and  the  jaw-bone  easily 
broken.  Excepting  when  used  for  soup,  hares  and  rabbits 
are  not  opened,  weather  allowing,  for  several  days.  After 
hanging  for  some  days,  it  is  paunched  and  skinned,  the  heart 
and  liver  removed  and  scalded.  They  should  be  well  bled 
and  washed  through  several  waters,  trussed,  and  if  young 
they  may  be  roasted,  but  not  without  a  rich  stuffing,  made 
of  grated  bread-crumbs,  beef-suet,  a  small  chopped  onion,  the 
liver,  if  perfectly  good,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  the  whole 
moistened  with  egg  and  a  table-spoonful  of  claret.  Put  this 
stuffing  into  the  belly,  and  sew  it  up.  Baste  with  butter. 
Make  the  gravy  with  the  drippings  of  the  pan,  cream,  and 
the  yolk  of  a  beaten  egg,  and  a  very  little  flour.  An  hour 
and  a  half  or  two  hours  will  roast  a  hare  or  rabbit,  which 
should  be  cooked  gradually.  When  old  they  are  braised  or 
stewed  slowly  with  herbs,  wine,  water,  chopped  onion,  thick- 
ened with  butter  and  flour. 

Woodcock  is  the  favorite  bird  of  gourmands,  if  one  judges 
by  their  market  value,  as  they  frequently  bring  one  dollar 
per  brace.  They  are  to  be  had  from  the  1st  of  July  to  the 
1st  of  December.  The  practice  of  not  drawing  these  birds 
is  more  honored  in  the  breach  than  the  observance. 

Partridges  and  Pheasants  are  marketable  from  September 
to  the  5th  of  January,  when  their  after  sale  is  illegal,  on  ac- 
count of  the  food  of  these  birds  consisting,  while  the  snow  is 
on  the  ground,  of  wild  laurel-berries,  which  renders  their 
flesh  poisonous. 


GAME.  191 

Quails  are  plenty  in  the  fall  and  winter  months,  when  they 
are  tracked  on  the  snow.  They  abound  in  the  Western 
States ;  they  are  sold  by  the  dozen,  generally  bringing  one 
dollar  per  dozen. 

Grouse  and  Prairie-Hens  are  trapped  at  the  West  in  great 
numbers  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  New  York  market 
are  to  be  had  at  one  dollar,  and  frequently  fifty  cents,  per  pair. 

Plover  and  Snipe.  This  tribe,  containing  six  or  eight 
varieties,  is  sold  by  the  dozen.  In  Europe  plovers'  eggs  are 
served  in  the  nest  of  the  bird ;  the  fine  blue  speckled  eggs  are 
cooked,  and  left  again  in  the  nest,  which  is  sent  to  the  table 
precisely  as  the  winged  architect  constructed  it,  a  pictur- 
esque ornament.  It  is  not  an  edible  nest,  like  the  nests  of  the 
Java  Swallow,  called  Salangane,  and  by  some  naturalists  the 
Esculent  Swallow,  though  the  nest,  which  is  thought  to  be 
made  of  the  spawn  of  fish,  is  only  eaten ;  the  viscous  sub- 
stance is  collected  by  this  swallow  from  the  rocks,  or  gathered 
from  the  surface  of  the  sea.  The  gelatinous  matter  of  these 
nests,  somewhat  resembling  isinglass,  is  by  the  Chinese  dis- 
solved in  chicken  or  mutton-broth,  and  travellers,  among 
others  our  distinguished  countryman,  Bayard  Taylor,  have 
acknowledged  their  title  to  rank  as  a  delicacy. 

The  Virginia  Rail,  who  builds  her  nest  of  sedgy  materials 
near  the  sea-shore,  or  in  quagmires,  when  used  for  the  table, 
should,  like  most  aquatic  birds,  have  a  sliced  carrot  or  onion 
introduced  after  the  bird  is  drawn,  to  remove  a  strong  taste 
induced  by  the  diet  and  situation  of  such  birds. 

The  Cedar  or  Carolina  Rice-bird,  sold  by  the  dozen,  makes 
a  very  delicious  pie. 

The  Wild  Pigeon  requires  to  be  braised,  or  stewed  slowly 
with  savory  adjuncts ;  thus  potted,  it  is  very  nice ;  but  it 
never  affords  such  a  variety  of  dishes  as  the  tame  pigeon,  the 
young  or  squabs  of  the  last  being  delicious,  either  broiled  or 
served  in  a  pie. 


192  GAME. 

Grouse  are  generally  trussed  with  the  head  under  the  wing ; 
when  roasted,  they  must  be  generously  basted,  and  not  over- 
done. Toasted  bread  buttered  is  laid  in  the  dripping-pan, 
upon  which  they  may  be  served  \vith  plain  butter-sauce. 
Roasted  rare,  that  is,  before  a  quick  fire  in  twenty  minutes,  a 
wine  sauce  is  often  made  for  them. 

Partridges  and  Pheasants  require  constant  basting  when 
roasted,  and  should  have  a  gravy,  and  may  be,  if  liked,  served 
on  rich  buttered  toast. 

Woodcocks^  Quails,  Snipes,  or  Plovers  may  be  roasted,  and 
served  on  toast,  with  gravy  made  of  the  drippings,  a  piece  of 
floured  butter,  and  equal  proportions  of  wine  and  currant 
jelly  boiled  together,  and  sent  to  the  table  hot  in  a  boat. 
These  small  birds  may  be  stuffed  with  mashed  boiled  chest- 
nuts, laid  in  a  deep  dish  with  slices  of  ham  tied  over  them, 
and  baked  in  a  Dutch  oven.  Remove  the  ham  when  they 
are  sent  to  the  table. 

Game  that  is  to  be  kept  some  days  should  not  be  washed, 
as  the  wetting  facilitates  decomposition. 

Wild  Ducks.  —  Canvas-back  ducks  of  the  Susquehannah 
and  Potomac  Rivers  are  fat  in  the  latter  part  of  November, 
and  all  through  December,  and  are  in  the  market  till  late  in 
the  spring.  They  feed  on  wild  celery.  They  bring  one, 
three,  and  five  dollars  per  brace.  Red-head  ducks,  of  similar 
habits  to  the  canvas-back,  are  nearly  as  nice  eating. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  sea  ducks  and  of  river  ducks. 
Brant  is  considered  the  nicest  for  eating,  of  the  salt-water 
ducks. '  In  May  they  are  fattest,  and  the  choice  duck  of  the 
season ;  they  may  be  had  in  the  New  York  market,  in  the 
spring  and  fall,  from  Long  Island,  and  are  sometimes  intro- 
duced in  the  winter  from  the  South.  It  is  of  a  delicate 
build,  and  not  able  to  stand  the  rigors  of  a  Northern 
climate. 

The  Mallard  frequents  lakes  and  rivers.     The  Widgeon, 


GAME.  193 

the  Black  Duck,  and  the  Broad-bill  frequent  rivers  and  the 
sea-shore,  in  the  latitude  of  the  Middle  States,  and  are  in 
the  markets  of  the  Atlantic  cities  from  fall  till  late  in  spring. 

The  Virginia  Gray  Duck,  which  is  largely  exported  from 
that  State,  is  a  choice  duck  for  the  table.  They  are  sold 
sometimes  for  fifty  cents  per  pair. 

The  Blue  and  Green  Tail  Duck  has  also  a  high  reputation. 

Canvas-back  ducks  are  trussed,  wiped  out  with  a  clean 
cloth,  but  not  washed,  roasted  rare  for  about  twenty  minutes 
or  half  an  hour  before  a  good  fire.  Currant-jelly  should  al- 
ways be  on  the  table  to  mix  with  the  gravy  of  such  as  fancy 
it,  and  heaters  provided  for  each  plate. 

Where  sea-ducks  are  tough  and  fishy,  they  must  be  stuffed 
in  the  body  with  sliced  carrot,  and  parboiled  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  relieved  of  the  carrot  and  roasted,  basting  with 
fresh  butter,  and  serving  with  celery,  wine,  or  hot.  currant- 
jelly  sauce.  Wild  ducks  may  be  nicely  trussed,  and  laid  in 
a  pan  with  butter  and  a  small  onion  in  the  body  of  each, 
laying  pieces  of  butter  in  the  pan,  with  a  bunch  of  celery  or 
sweet  herbs,  a  little  pepper,  and  salt.  Let  them  stew  slowly, 
covering  the  pan ;  when  done,  strain  the  liquor  found  in  the 
pan,  and  pour  it  hot  over  the  ducks.  Garnish  with  sliced 
lemon. 

Ducks  before  going  to  the  pot  or  spit  should  be  wiped 
dry,  and  the  river  ducks  should  be  rubbed  on  the  inside  with 
pepper  and  salt,  excepting  the  canvas-back,  which  should  be 
left  to  its  generous  juices  as  far  as  possible. 

Wild  geese  are  cooked  rare,  like  ducks,  and  to  the  made 
gravy  is  added  a  glass  of  port  or  claret,  and  a  little  finely 
chopped  onion.  Where  the  wild  duck  or  goose  is  rank  and 
oily,  the  dripping-pan  should  be  skimmed,  and  the  seasoning 
to  the  gravies  should  be  more  pungent;  a  little  cayenne, 
onion,  and  made  mustard  may  be  used  in  exceeding  nice 
quantities  with  advantage. 
17 


194  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Wild  turkey  may  be  stuffed  with  oysters,  and  served  with 
oyster-sauce,  or  if  the  turkey  be  fat  and  rich,  the  made  gravy 
of  the  pan  may  be  seasoned  with  mushroom  catchup ;  or  better 
yet,  the  small  button  mushrooms,  stewed  in  butter,  cream, 
and  seasoned  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  may  be  poured 
hot  over  the  turkey,  the  made  gravy  being  served  in  a  boat. 
If  the  turkey  be  tough,  it  should  be  boiled  half  an  hour  in 
water  seasoned  with  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  celery  or  sweet 
herbs,  and  be  well  basted  in  roasting. 

Since  steam  plays  with  such  vivacity  between  the  old 
and  new  country,  we  exchange  with  our  cousins  of  England 
the  exquisite  Canvas-back,  and  take  their  Pheasants  and 
Scotch  Grouse. 

GOOSEBERRIES.  The  native  varieties  are  little  cul- 
tivated ;  our  garden  sorts  are  from  the  North  of  England. 
Gooseberry  plants  are  raised  from  cuttings.  The  strongest 
and  healthiest  shoots  of  the  current  year  are  selected,  (cutting 
off  the  buds  that  would  go  under  the  ground,)  and  put  about 
six  inches  under  the  surface  of  a  rich,  deep  soil ;  the  earth 
should  be  pressed  closely  round  the  slips,  and  when  they 
have  rooted,  in  about  a  year's  time,  they  should  be  trans- 
planted into  a  rich  soil.  Cuttings  may  be  set  out  early  in 
spring  or  fall. 

Gooseberry  plants  require  to  be  well  manured  every  year, 
digging  in  a  heavy  top-dressing  on  bearing  plants ;  they  also 
require  close  pruning.  Lime,  sulphur,  wood-ashes,  mixed 
into  the  top  soil,  are  good  to  operate  against  mildew,  to  which 
disease  these  plants  (especially  inferior  sorts)  are  liable ;  a  cool 
situation,  such  as  an  open  border,  is  also  advisable  for  them, 
for  the  same  purpose.  Should  the  soil  be  dry,  it  must  be 
mulched  or  covered  under  the  surface  with  straw  and  litter. 

If  you  would  train  as  trees,  no  suckers  must  be  allowed  to 
grow.  Many  cultivators  prefer  the  gooseberry  and  currant 


GRAFTING.  195 

to  grow  as  bushes.  Prune  when  the  plant  is  out  of  bearing 
in  spring  or  fall,  cutting  the  tops  ;  and  when  in  bearing,  some 
of  the  fruit  may  be  removed  if  very  heavy,  and  some  vigor- 
ous shoots  thumb-pruned  to  perfect  the  remaining  fruit.  . 

Cuttings  may  be  struck  every  season.  The  best  garden 
varieties  will  only  pay  for  the  care  and  expense  of  annual 
cultivation.  There  are  almost  endless  varieties  of  the  red, 
yellow,  green,  and  white  gooseberries.  The  following  sorts 
are  taken  from  Downing's  Fruit  and  Fruit  Trees,  as  styled 
by  him :  — 

Selections  of  sorts  for  a  very  small  garden.  Red :  Red 
Warrington,  Keen's  Seedling,  Crown  Bob.  Yellow  :  Early 
Sulphur,  Yellow  Ball.  White:  Woodward's  Whitesmith, 
Early  White,  Taylor's  Bright  Venus,  White  Honey.  Green : 
Pitmaston  Green  Gage,  Green  Walnut,  Parkinson's  Laurel. 

GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE. 

Take  fruit  just  ripe,  pick  off  the  tops  and  stems,  and 
weigh  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar  to  the  fruit,  dividing  the 
sugar  into  two  equal  portions.  Make  a  sirup  of  one  portion, 
and  put  the  gooseberries  into  it,  over  the  fire ;  let  them  re- 
main till  they  are  transparent,  then  remove  them,  and  make 
a  sirup  of  the  reserved  sugar,  adding  to  it  the  sirup  of  the 
gooseberries,  gently  dipping  it  off;  let  it  boil  till  thick  and 
rich,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  The  fruit,  by  this  pro- 
cess, will  be  less  tough,  and  keep  its  flavor  better  than  if 
cooked  longer. 

GRAFTING.  (Bohemian  method.)  It  is  well  known 
that  desirable  sorts  of  fruit  and  their  varieties  are  not  easily 
raised  by  seeds  or  cuttings,  and  that  various  modes  of  graft- 
ing (the  French  practise  over  fifty  modes)  have  always  been 
practised  by  gardeners  for  the  purpose  of  continuing  and  im- 
proving choice  varieties.  The  following  method,  accepted 


196  GRAPES. 

by  French  gardeners,  has  lately  appeared :  —  Take  a  healthy 
slip  from  an  apple-tree,  or  the  tree  you  wish  to  increase,  and 
insert  it  into  a  potato  and  plant  it,  leaving  about  two  inches 
of  the  slip  visible.  The  slip  is  said  to  take  root,  arid  grow 
vigorously  into  a  fruit-bearing  tree. 

The  season  for  grafting  trees  is  in  the  spring,  when  the 
sap  is  in  motion ;  the  cherry  and  plum  are  first  ready  for  the 
process,  the  pear  and  apple  being  some  weeks  later.  A  mild, 
showery  atmosphere  facilitates  all  the  processes  of  grafting. 

GRAPES.  Passing  by  foreign  grapes,  as  too  wide  a  sub- 
ject for  my  limits,  I  shall  confine  myself  to  a  few  remarks 
upon  our  native  grape,  which  is  found  growing  wild  in  most 
of  the  States.  The  varieties  of  native  grapes  best  known 
are  the  Isabella  and  the  Catawba ;  both  of  these  are  hardy, 
and  grow  rapidly  in  a  bright,  sunny,  open  exposure,  though 
they  ripen  with  difficulty  in  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and 
Vermont.  The  Isabella,  being  two  or  three  weeks  earlier 
than  the  Catawba,  is  the  variety  chosen  usually  for  garden 
culture  in  the  Eastern  States. 

The  Catawba,  a  native  of  Virginia,  found  in  the  region  of 
the  river  whose  name  it  bears,  is  cultivated  extensively  at 
the  West,  for  wines ;  it  is  not  so  sweet  as  the  Isabella,  but 
has  a  more  racy,  vinous  flavor.  The  Isabella  is  a  native  of 
South  Carolina. 

The  garden  culture  of  native  grapes  and  their  numerous 
varieties  is  found  by  most  persons  so  exceedingly  easy,  that 
it  is  wonderful  that  every  home  whose  premises  command  a 
sunny,  open  exposure,  does  not  keep  a  vine. 

Mr.  Downing  recommends,  when  the  upright  mode  or 
the  spur  mode  of  training  is  pursued,  that  the  first  sea- 
son's growth  of  a  newly  planted  vine  be  cut  back  to  two  buds 
the  ensuing  fall  or  spring.  "  These  two  buds,"  he  remarks, 
"  are  allowed  to  form  two  upright  shoots  the  next  summer, 


GRAPES.  197 

which,  at  the  end  of  the  season,  are  brought  down  to  a  hori- 
zontal position,  and  fastened  each  way  to  the  lower  horizon- 
tal rails  of  the  trellis,  being  shortened  at  the  distance  of  three 
or  four  feet  from  the  root,  —  or  as  far  each  side  as  the  plant 
is  wished  to  extend.  The  next  season,  upright  shoots  are 
allowed  to  grow  one  foot  apart,  and  these,  as  soon  as  they 
reach  the  top  of  the  trellis,  are  also  stopped.  The  next  year, 
the  trellis  being  filled  with  the  vines,  a  set  of  lateral  shoots 
will  be  produced  from  the  upright  leaders,  with  from  one  to 
three  bunches  upon  each,  which  will  be  the  first  crop.  The 
vine  is  now  perfect,  and,  in  the  spur  mode  of  pruning,  it  is 
only  necessary  at  the  close  of  every  season,  that  is,  at  the 
autumnal  or  winter  pruning,  to  cut  back  these  lateral  shoots 
or  fruit  spurs  to  within  an  inch  of  the  upright  shoot  from 
which  they  spring,  and  a  new  lateral  producing  fruit  will  an- 
nually supply  its  place,  to  be  again  cut  out  at  the  winter 
pruning."  If  vines  are  not  kept  back  by  pruning,  they  "soon 
exhaust  their  vigor  in  the  first  few  years.  Old  vines,  whose 
fruit  has  diminished  in  size  and  flavor,  may  be  cut  down  to 
the  lower  shoots  of  the  trellis.  The  authority  just  quoted 
has  remarked,  that  his  experience  was  that  six  or  eight  feet 
was  the  distance  at  which  to  plant  the  native  grapes.  "  As- 
suming," he  says,  "  the  trellis  to  be  eight  feet  high,  then  each 
vine  will  extend  either  way  three  or  four  feet,  covering  a 
space  eight  feet  square.  In  this  form,  the  roots  and  branches 
extending  but  a  short  distance,  they  may  be  kept  in  high 
vigor,  and  a  state  of  constant  productiveness,  for  a  great 
length  of  time." 

Prune  grapes  a  month  before  vegetation  commences,  or  in 
mild  latitudes  prune  the  vines  in  November. 

The  native  grapes,  though  growing  in  most  soils,  do  best 

in  soils  which  are  rather  strong  and  rich.    The  ground  round 

the  growing  plants  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds  and 

stirred  lightly  on  the  top,  and  deeper  out  of  the  reach  of  the 

17* 


198  HOGS. 

roots.  The  usual  fertilizers  are  good  for  the  grape,  if  not 
applied  till  fermentation  has  taken  place.  Vegetable  mould, 
ashes,  and  bone  manure  are  all  excellent. 

The  grape-vine  is  easily  propagated  by  layers  (bending 
branches  of  the  previous  or  current  year's  growth  down  at 
any  time  before  midsummer,  and  covering  with  earth),  or  by 
cuttings,  which  the  annual  trimmings  abundantly  afford. 

Grapes  may  be  kept  many  months  by  being  packed  in 
substances  that  have  been  dried  by  heat,  and  kept  in  a  cool, 
dry  room.  Mr.  Cole  says,  in  his  Fruit  Book,  he  has  pre- 
served grapes  in  excellent  condition  for  several  months, ."  by 
laying  them  into  small  baskets  on  paper,  four  to  eight  quarts 
in  each,  covering  them  with  paper,  cotton,  or  a  cloth,  and 
hanging  them  up  in  a  well-aired,  dry  room." 

HAMS.  Those  which  are  bought  generally  require  to 
be  soaked  twelve  hours,  changing  the  water,  frequently,  and 
to  be  thoroughly  scraped  and  cleaned  before  going  to  the  pot. 
Cover  the  ham  with  water,  and  give  a  quarter  of  an  hour's 
boiling  to  each  pound ;  then  take  it  out  of  the  pot,  skin  it, 
sift  grated  bread  over  it,  and  put  it  into  the  oven,  and  let  it 
bake  another  quarter  of  an  hour  to  each  pound.  Gourmands 
boil  their  hams  in  hock.  See  Bacon 

HOGS.  These  animals  have  been  of  immense  assistance 
to  the  settlers  of  our  Western  country. 

The  hog  is  not  a  native  of  America,  but  was  introduced 
here  by  the  Spaniards. 

The  common  hog  adapts  himself  to  all  climates,  and  almost 
all  food.  These  dispositions  and  habits,  together  with  his 
fecundity,  and  the  readiness  with  which  his  flesh  receives 
salt,  makes  him  alike  valuable  to  the  daily  laborer  and  the 
wholesale  dealer. 

In  a  state  of  nature,  the  wild  hog  (Sus  aper)  feeds  on 


HOGS.  199 

plants  and  roots,  seeks  moist  and  shady  retreats,  and  pierces 
the  earth  with  his  snout  for  food,  which  his  acute  smell  in- 
dicates to  him. 

Like  other  domesticated  animals,  the  hog  has  been  sub- 
jected to  careful  training,  to  improve  his  valuable  properties. 
We  have  introduced  into  this  country  quite  extensively  the 
Berkshire  hog,  which  is  an  improved  English  breed,  very 
superior  for  pork  and  bacon.  This  hog  is  of  the  ancient  stock 
of  England,  crossed  with  the  blood  of  the  Eastern  hog,  and 
principally  by  the  varieties  styled  Chinese  hogs,  which  have 
been  largely  imported  into  the  old  country.  This  Chinese 
mixture,  while  it  diminished  the  size  of  the  old  English 
stock,  improved  the  properties  of  form,  and  the  disposition  to 
fatten. 

The  desirable  features  in  the  hog's  form,  indicative  of  a 
tendency  to  secrete  fat,  are  similar  to  those  of  other  live 
stock  ;  a  broad  and  deep  chest,  ribs  rounded  or  arched,  neck 
short,  head  and  limbs  small,  soft  bristles,  skin  soft  and  elastic. 
(Low's  Practical  Agriculture.) 

The  female  goes  with  her  young  one  hundred  and  twelve 
days. 

Hogs  love  moist  and  succulent  food;  clover  and  other 
green  food,  the  refuse  of  the  garden,  and  the  gleanings  of 
the  table,  may  be  given  to  them,  though  for  final  fattening 
they  require  farinaceous,  or  other  nourishing  food.  Sour 
fruit  should  not  be  offered  to  them,  unless  mixed  with  sac- 
charine substances.  They  should  be  fed  three  times  a  day, 
have  clean  troughs  and  clean  beds,  and  it  is  of  great  advan- 
tage to  animals  of  single  stomachs,  like  the  hog,  to  have  their 
food  boiled  or  steamed,  especially  when  they  have  not  access 
to  forests  for  exercise.  Coarse  meal,  or  bran  steamed  or 
boiled,  is  good  food  for  the  hog ;  pease  and  beans  partially 
cooked  can  be  given  occasionally. 

Virginia  bacon  is  thought  to  owe  its  sweetness  and  flavor 


200  HEDGES. 

to  the  privilege  the  hogs  enjoy  in  that  State,  of  running  in 
the  woods  in  the  autumn,  and  gathering  acorns  and  green 
food. 

When  intended  for  pork,  pigs  are  at  the  best  age  at  six 
or  eight  months ;  but  for  bacon  they  must  be  brought  to  a  full 
size,  which  can  only  be  done  in  ten  or  twelve  months.  For 
bacon,  the  larger  breeds  of  hogs  are  generally  reared ;  for 
pork,  the  smaller  varieties  are  selected. 

HEDGES.  These  fences  are  beginning  to  be  used  ex- 
tensively  in  some  parts  of  the  United  States,  both  as  a  nat- 
ural defence  against  encroachments,  and  as  ornaments  to 
wire-fences  of  small  gardens.  In  England,  the  application  of 
hedges  for  public  roads  and  private  enclosures  is  so  exten- 
sive, that  the  linear  extent  has  been  supposed  to  be  many 
times  the  circumference  of  the  whole  earth. 

Hedges  for  mere  ornament  and  shade  are  made  of  Ribes 
sanguined,  or  Flowering  Currant,  of  Tree  Box,  of  Ivy  and 
other  hardy  climbers,  of  some  species  of  the  Buckthorn,  and 
of  Arbor  Vitas ;  of  this  last  there  are  some  very  fine  exam- 
ples in  Jefferson  County,  Virginia. 

Hedges  to  exclude  cattle  and  trespassers  are  made  of  the 
common  English  Hawthorn  (Cratcegus  Oxyacantha) ,  and 
different  species  of  North  American  thorns  of  the  same  genus. 
Among  the  numerous  varieties  of  American  Thorns  is  the 
Cockspur  Hawthorn  (Cratcegus  Crus-galli)-,  this  and  its  varie- 
ties have  fine  glossy  leaves  of  dark  green.  C.  Pyracantha  has 
pure  white  flowers  and  brilliant  red  berries,  which  are  abun- 
dant enough  to  have  given  it  the  name  in  France  of  Buis- 
son  ardent,  or  the  Burning  Bush ;  it  grows  well  in  many 
parts  of  America,  but  perhaps  is  not  native.  It  produces  its 
white  blossoms  after  its  third  year,  annually,  in  June,  when 
the  American  Hawthorn  ( Cratcegus  coccinea)  is  in  bloom. 

It  is  best  to  choose  for  a  hedge  that  kind  of  Hawthorn 


INK.  201 

that  takes  most  kindly  to  the  neighboring  soil  of  the  grounds 
to  be  enclosed. 

"  In  Great  Britain,"  writes  Timothy  Pickering,  "  hedge 
fences  are  generally  accompanied  by  ditch  and  bank ;  prin- 
cipally (I  presume)  because  the  ditch  and  bank,  aided  by  a 
slight  railing,  make  an  immediate  fence ;  and  because  in  flat 
grounds  ditches  serve  for  drains.  But  in  America,  where 
wood  is  yet  sufficient  in  quantity  for  complete  fences,  while 
the  hedges  are  growing,  and  where,  too,  we  are  subject  to 
heavier  rains,  which  cause  destructive  gullies,  doubtless  Mr. 
Main's  plan  of  plain  hedging,  without  ditch  and  bank,  is  most 
eligible.  A  ditch  is  an  artificial  gully,  which  in  sloping  grounds 
every  considerable  rain  must  mischievously  increase." 

This  distinguished  man  was  among  the  first  in  this  coun- 
try to  set  out  the  Locust-tree  (Robinia  Pseudacacia]  as  a 
hedge.  From  the  rapidity  of  its  growth,  its  bearing  the 
shears,  and  the  tendency  of  the  stems  to  interlace  with  one 
another,  it  makes  a  good  hedge.  If  the  seeds  of  Locust  are 
sown,  it  should  be  when  frosts  are  over,  and  in  rows  far 
enough  apart  to  admit  the  hoe.  When  two  years  old,  they 
are  generally  fit  to  set  out. 

All  the  species  of  Cratregus  or  Hawthorn  grow  best  in  dry 
soils.  "  The  seeds  of  the  common  Hawthorn  often  lie,"  says 
Mrs.  Loudoun,  "two  years  in  the  ground  before  they  ger- 
minate, if  not  prepared  before  sowing  by  being  suffered  to 
lie  for  several  months  in  what  is  called  a  rot-heep,  and 
which  is  often  turned  over  during  that  time,  to  prevent  the 
seeds  from  having  their  vital  powers  destroyed  by  the  heat 
generated  by  fermentation.  The  finer  kinds  of  thorns  are 
generally  grafted  or  budded  on  seedlings  of  the  common 
Hawthorn." 

INK.  The  best  inks  are  such  as  are  made  of  the  nut- 
gall  and  sulphate  of  iron,  and  gum-arabic.  Other  substances 


202  JELLIES. 

are  often  added,  such  as  logwood,  sulphate  of  copper,  and 
sugar.  Dr.  Bancroft's  receipt,  for  proportions,  is  twelve  oun- 
ces of  galls,  to  be  boiled  with  six  of  logwood,  in  five  quarts  of 
soft  water,  for  two  hours,  the  decoction  to  be  strained,  and 
made  up  one  gallon,  to  which  five  ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron, 
five  of  gum-arabic,  and  two  of  muscovado  sugar,  are  to  be 
added.  A  simpler  mode  has  the  authority  of  a  celebrated 
chemist ;  it  is  to  infuse  three  ounces  of  galls,  one  of  logwood, 
one  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and  one  of  gum-arabic,  in  a  quart  of 
cold  water  for  a  week,  adding  four  grains  of  corrosive  subli- 
mate to  prevent  mouldiness.  An  extraction  of  the  soluble 
parts  of  the  galls  may  be  more  economically  attained  by  the 
repeated  affusion  of  fresh  portions  of  the  water,  than  by 
steeping  them  in  the  whole  at  once.  A  single  drop  of  oil  of 
lavender  prevents  ink  from  moulding.  Put  one  drop  to  a 
pint.  (Quarterly  Review,  No.  21,  Art.  XIV.) 

INDIAN  MEAL.  This  article  should  not  be  bought  in 
large  quantities  for  family  use  ;  it  should  be  kept  in  a  cool 
closet,  and  many  housekeepers  place  in  the  centre  of  their 
meal  chest  or  tub  a  large  clean  stone  ;  it  tends  to  prevent 
fermentation,  and  to  keep  the  meal  cool. 

INDIAN  BREAD. 

Boil  a  cupful  of  sifted  meal  in  a  little  water  and  salt  till 
nearly  dry,  stirring  often ;  let  it  cool,  then  add  five  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  enough  rich  milk  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Bake 
in  a  quick  oven,  in  small  tins.  Butter  the  tins. 

*  JELLIES.  Almost  all  fruit-jellies  are  made  by  adding 
a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  strained  juice  of  fruit ;  yet  if 
the  best  white  loaf-sugar  is  used,  and  the  fruit  is  just  ripe, 
and  gathered  when  the  weather  is  dry,  and  the  extracted 
juice  is  reduced  by  boiling,  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  quart  will 


LAMB.  203 

make  lighter  and  clearer  jellies.  The  exceptions  are  cran- 
berry, gooseberry,  and  blackberry,  which  all  require  a  pound 
of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  juice. 

"We  shall  give  one  receipt,  which  may  answer  for  several. 

CURRANT  JELLY. 

Strip  currants  that  are  just  ripe  into  a  stone  jar,  cover  the 
jar,  and  set  it  into  a  kettle  of  warm  water ;  let  it  boil  one 
hour  over  a  moderate  fire.  Pass  a  linen  or  flannel  jelly- 
bag  through  hot  water,  wring  it  dry,  and  pour  the  currant 
juice  into  the  bag,  secured  to  the  table  with  a  dish  under  it. 
Do  not  squeeze  the  bag.  When  the  juice  has  escaped  the 
bag,  measure  it,  and  against  each  quart  of  the  juice  weigh  one 
pound  of  the  best  quality  of  white  sugar.  Put  the  juice 
without  the  sugar  into  a  porcelain  kettle,  and  let  it  boil  up 
once.  Take  it  off  and  put  in  the  sugar,  which  should  be 
crushed  to  a  powder,  and  add  it  gradually  while  the  juice  is 
hot.  Put  the  jelly  into  tumblers,  cover  with  thin  paper,  cut 
to  the  glass,  and  paste  white  paper  on  the  outside  to  exclude 
the  air.  Keep  it  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Jellies  that  are  mawkishly  sweet  are  flavored  with  a  little 
lemon-juice. 

Black-currant  jelly  would  be  very  close  and  thick,  if  a 
little  water  were  not  added  to  the  fruit  when  it  is  put  into 
the  jar  to  boil. 

Where  inferior  sugar  is  used,  it  should  be  put  in  with  the 
fruit,  and  carefully  skimmed.  Jellies  require  to  be  boiled 
longer  when  the  sugar  is  indifferent. 

LAMB.  This  delicate  meat  should  have  the  kidney  fresh 
and  fat,  the  quarters  thick,  and  in  the  fore-quarter  the  vein 
of  the  neck  should  be,  if  fresh,  blue. 

The  leg  may  be  boiled  or  roasted.   When  boiled,  let  it  sim- 


204  LARD. 

mer  slowly.  If  small,  that  is,  weighing  about  four  pounds, 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  will  cook  it.  Shoulder  of  iamb 
may  have  the  bone  removed,  the  vacancy  stuffed  with  force- 
meat, and  be  baked  in  an  oven,  or  braised  in  a  Dutch  oven. 
The  leg  is  sometimes  prepared  in  this  manner. 

Breast  of  lamb  has  the  chine-bone  chopped  off.  Notch  the 
breast  well,  and  either  roast  it,  or  stew  it  with  gravy  and 
a  sprinkling  of  sweet  herbs  and  mixed  spices;  finish  by 
browning  it  in  ah  even.  Serve  it  with  green  peas  or  as- 
paragus. 

Lamb  cutlets  are  taken  from  the  neck.  Trim  them,  flatten 
them  with  a  small  mallet  or  the  back  of  the  knife,  season 
them  with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  beat 
them  gently,  dip  them  into  a  Ijjtle  clarified  butter,  and  give 
them  another  dressing  with  egg  and  grated  bread-crumbs. 
Fry  them  a  delicate  brown,  using  clarified  butter,  or  sweet 
olive-oil.  Lamb  cutlets  may  be  simply  seasoned  and  broiled 
plainly. 

Lamb  chops  are  cut  from  the  loin,  taking  off  the  flap, 
cutting  the  chops  not  quite  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  loin 
can  have  about  eight  chops  taken  from  it,  three  of  which 
should  have  a  bit  of  kidney  to  them.  Heat  the  gridiron, 
rub  a  little  beef-suet  on  it,  place  two  or  three  of  the  chops 
on  it,  and  place  them  over  clear  coals,  free  from  smoke.  As 
the  chops  warm,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Broil  them 
a  light  brown,  and  serve  hot  with  bits  of  butter  placed  be- 
tween each  chop. 

LARD.  This  is  extracted  from  the  leaf  or  inner  fat  of 
a  newly  slaughtered  pig  or  hog.  After  trimming  the  skin 
and  fibrous  parts  off,  it  may  be  cut  into  pieces  and  placed 
over  a  moderate  fire,  with  a  little  water,  say  a  large  cupful ; 
as  it  heats,  the  water  evaporates.  Stir  it  frequently ;  dip  off 
the  fat  as  it  melts,  and  strain  it  into  clean  stone  jars.  When 


MEASURES    AND    WEIGHTS.  205 

cool,  cover  the  jars  closely,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool,  dry 
place.     The  first  dippings  will  be  whiter  lard  than  the  last. 

This  leaf-fat  may  be  converted  into  lard  by.  another  pro- 
cess. Fill  a  jar  with  the  fat  broken  into  pieces,  and  set  the 
jar  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water ;  as  the  fat  melts,  strain  it,  and 
proceed  as  already  directed. 

LEMON  SIRUP.  Squeeze  the  juice  from  fresh  lemons, 
strain  it,  and  to  every  pint  of  juice  add  a  pound  of  the  best 
double-refined  loaf-sugar.  Crush  the  sugar  with  a  rolling- 
pin,  and  stir  it  gradually  into  the  strained  juice.  Put  the 
whole  into  a  preserving-kettle,  over  a  moderate  fire.  As  it 
heats,  skim  it ;  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  take  it  off  the  fire, 
pour  it  into  a  large  china  bowl,  and  in  twenty-four  hours 
bottle  it  in  fresh  sweet  bottles.  You  may,  if  you  please,  add 
one  table-spoonful  of  pure  French  brandy  to  each  bottle. 
Cork  closely,  and  keep  the  sirup  in  a  cool,  dry  closet. 

MEASURES  AND  WEIGHTS.  The  labors  of  sci- 
entific men  and  the  authority  of  governments  have  always 
been  directed  towards  discovering  and  enacting  one  common 
weight  and  measure.  Laws  were  enacted  in  England  to 
this  effect  as  early  as  Edgar ;  afterwards,  as  if  they  had  not 
been  effectual,  the  Magna  Charta,  cap.  25,  declares :  "  One 
measure  of  wine  shall  be  throughout  our  realm,  and  one 
measure  of  ale,  and  one  measure  of  corn,  that  is  to  say,  the 
quarter  of  London.  And  it  shall  be  of  weights  as  it  is  of 
measures."  Our  mother,  England,  from  whom  we  have 
gathered  our  highest  instincts  of  law  and  equity,  and  whose 
generous  milk  can  never  be  out  of  us,  has  since  been  con- 
stantly engaged  in  endeavoring  to  make  weights  and  meas- 
ures uniform  throughout  her  dominions. 

To  enter  into  the  origin  or  follow  the  variations  of  stand- 
ards for  weights  and  measures,  either  as  created  and  regu- 
18 


206  MEASURES    AND    WEIGHTS. 

lated  by  political  economy  or  scientific  deductions,  would  be 
to  exceed  our  limits,  either  of  capacity  or  space.  The  origin 
of  the  standards  appears  often  to  have  been  accidental ;  thus 
"  Henry  I.  ordered  the  length  of  his  arm  to  be  the  criterion 
of  the  yard  measure  ;  and  51  Henry  III.  declares  32  grains 
of  wheat  dry,  taken  out  of  the  midst  of  the  ear,  to  be  the 
standard  weight  of  the  twentieth  part  of  an  ounce."  "  It  is 
with  this  subject,"  says  a  writer  in  the  Quarterly  Review  al- 
ready quoted,  "  as  with  laws  and  manners :  constant  attempts 
at  improvement  appear  necessary  even  to  prevent  deteriora- 
tion. Experience  shows  that  few  matters  have  a  greater 
tendency  to  grow  worse,  or  more  obstinately  resist  correc- 
tion, than  common  usages  in  weights  and  measures." 

I  have  collected  the  following  tables  of  measures  and 
weights,  as  likely  to  be  valuable  to  many  of  my  readers ;  the 
first  table,  calculated  by  James  M.  Garnet,  Esq.,  of  Essex 
County,  Va.,  was  first  published  in  Mr.  Ruffin's  Farmer's 
Register  ;  the  second  is  taken  from  the  Agricultural  Journal 
of  New  York. 

GARNET'S  TABLE. 

A  box  24  inches  by  16  inches  square,  and  22  inches  deep, 
will  contain  a  barrel,  or  10,752  cubic  inches. 

A  box  24  inches  by  16  inches  square,  and  11  inches  deep, 
will  contain  a  half- barrel,  or  5,376  cubic  inches. 

A  box  1 6  inches  by  1 6.8  inches  square,  and  8  inches  deep, 
will  contain  a  bushel,  or  2,150.4  cubic  inches. 

A  box  12  inches  by  11.2  inches  square,  and  8  inches 
deep,  will  contain  half  a  bushel,  or  1,075  cubic  inches. 

A  box  8  inches  by  8.4  inches  square,  and  8  inches  deep, 
will  contain  one  peck,  or  537.6  cubic  inches. 

A  box  8  inches  by  8  inches  square,  and  4.2  inches  deep, 
will  contain  one  half-peck,  or  268.8  cubic  inches. 

A  box  7  inches  by  4  inches  square,  and  4.8  inches  deep, 
will  contain  a  half-gallon,  or  131.4  cubic  inches. 


MEASURES   AND    WEIGHTS.  207 

A  box  4  inches  by  4  inches  square,  and  4.2  inches  deep, 
will  contain  one  quart,  or  67.2  cubic  inches. 

These  measures  come  within  a  small  fraction  of  a  cubic 
inch  of  being  accurate,  and  are  as  absolutely  perfect  as 
any  measures  of  capacity  for  common  use  have  ever  been 
made. 

Table  of  the  Numbev  of  Pounds  of  various  Articles  to  a  Bushel. 

Of  Wheat,  sixty  pounds. 

Of  Shelled  Corn,  fifty-six  pounds. 

Of  Corn  on  the  cob,  seventy-five  pounds. 

Of  Rye,  fifty-six  pounds. 

Of  Oats,  thirty-two  pounds. 

Of  Barley,  forty-eight  pounds. 

Of  Middling,  forty-five  pounds. 

Of  Bran,  twelve  pounds. 

Of  Shorts,  eighteen  pounds. 

Of  Clover-seed,  sixty  pounds. 

Of  Timothy-seed,  fifty-six  pounds. 

Of  Hemp-seed,  forty-four  pounds. 

Of  Blue-grass-seed,  fourteen  pounds. 

Of  Castor-beans,  forty-six  pounds. 

Of  Dried  Peaches,  thirty-three  pounds. 

Of  Dried  Apples,  twenty-five  pounds. 

Of  Onions,  fifty-seven  pounds. 

Of  Salt,  fifty  pounds.      - 

Of  Mineral  Coal,  seventy  pounds. 

MEASURING  GRAIN  IN  BULK. 

To  reduce  solid  feet  to  bushels,  multiply  the  number  of 
solid  feet  by  45,  and  divide  the  product  by  56  :  the  quotient 
will  be  the  number  of  bushels. 

Reason.  —  As  one  Bushel  contains  2,150.4  inches,  one  solid 
foot  is  ££•  of  a  bushel. 


208  PARSNIPS. 

Example.  —  How  many  bushels  in  a  box  or  crib  8  feet 
long,  4  feet  wide,  and  2  feet  deep?  Multiply  the  length  by 
the  width  and  depth,  and  the  product  by  45,  which,  divided 
by  56,  gives  2  If,  the  number  of  bushels  which  the  box 
contains.  (New  York  Tribune.) 

MUTTON.  This  meat  is  procured  from  the  outer  isl- 
ands of  Maine,  of  excellent  flavor.  Mutton  made  from  a 
five-year-old  wether  is  nicest  for  the  table,  and  if  made 
from  a  sheep  under  three  years  it  is  flabby  and  vapid,  not 
matured  in  its  rich  juices.  A  leg  of  mutton  may  be  hung 
about  a  week  or  ten  days  before  it  is  cooked.  In  color,  rich 
mutton  is  of  a  clear,  darkish  red. 

When  a  leg  is  boiled,  it  is  generally  liked  underdone,  and 
then  some  slices  can  be  sent  to  the  kitchen  for  a  broil,  if  any 
guest  prefer  it  so  served.  Mashed  turnips  and  caper-sauce 
are  served  with  a  boiled  leg  of  mutton. 

The  leg  and  many  other  pieces  of  the  sheep  may  be 
roasted  or  stuffed  with  forcemeat  and  baked,  adding  to  the 
gravy  a  little  port  or  claret  wine.  Mutton  to  be  roasted 
may  be  kept  longer  than  that  to  be  boiled;  it  should  be 
trimmed  of  all  strong,  musty  bits,  and  well  wiped  with  pep- 
per and  salt  before  going  to  the  fire.  See  Lamb. 

ONIONS.  These  vegetables  should  be  skinned  and 
soaked  half  an  hour  in  cold  water  before  they  are  cooked, 
and  when  half  cooked  the  water  should  be  poured  from  them 
and  renewed  by  fresh  cold  water.  Onions  boiled  in  milk 
lose  much  of  their  bitter  taste.  Rareripes  or  onions  from 
the  bulb  are  sold  in  bunches  of  two  and  a  half  pounds ;  on- 
ions from  the  seed,  in  bunches  of  three  and  a  half  pounds. 

PARSNIPS.  Wash  and  scrape  them  well ;  if  old,  they 
will  take  nearly  an  hour's  boiling,  but  by  probing  it  can  be 
ascertained  when  they  are  tender;  divide  those  which  are 


PEACH.  209 

large.  If  milk  is  plenty,  boil  them  in  milk  and  water. 
They  are  served  with  boiled  dishes,  simply  boiled ;  with  roasts 
they  are  sliced  and  fried  in  sweet  lard  or  butter,  but  must 
first  be  boiled.  They  are  sweetest  in  spring,  after  being 
wintered  in  the  ground. 

PASTRY.  To  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  nice  lard,  rubbing  it  well  into  your 
flour ;  add  water  till  it  is  stiff  enough  to  put  on  your  paste- 
board, allowing  it  still  to  be  as  soft  as  it  can  be  worked. 
Sift  flour  over  your  board,  and  lay  the  paste  on.  Have 
ready  a  pound  of  butter,  from  which  the  salt  and  buttermilk 
have  been  worked  and  pressed  out ;  put  the  butter  in  pieces 
all  over  your  paste,  dust  over  a  little  flour,  fold  up  your  paste, 
and  roll  it  out.  Again  put  bits  of  butter  all  over  the  surface 
of  the  paste,  then  flour  and  roll  it  in  as  before,  and  proceed 
in  this  way  till  your  butter  is  all  worked  into  the  paste. 

PEACH  (Amygdalus  Persica).  This  fruit  is  said  to  be 
grown  in  larger  quantities  in  the  United  States  than  in  any 
other  country  in  the  world ;  it  is  principally,  however,  in  the 
Middle,  Western,  and  Southern  States  that  it  is  success- 
fully cultivated.  In  the  Eastern  States  it  is  raised  only  with 
great  care,  and  constantly  deteriorates  in  quality.  The 
health  and  duration  of  peach-orchards  depend  upon  the 
care  with  which  the  seed  has  been  selected,  which,  to  pro- 
duce healthy  seedlings,  should  be  taken  from  districts  Tvhere 
the  Yellows  is  not  prevalent,  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil,  and 
the  care  with  which  over-luxuriance  is  checked  by  pruning 
the  extremities  of  the  trees. 

"  The  very  best  soil,"  says  Downing,  "  for  the  peach,  is  a 

rich,  deep  sandy  loam ;  next  to  this,  a  strong,  mellow  loam ; 

then  a  light,  thin,  sandy  soil ;  and  the  poorest  is  a  heavy, 

compact  clay  soil.     In  ordinary  cases,  the  duration  of  peach- 

18* 


210  PEACH. 

orchards  in  the  light,  sandy  soil  is  rarely  more  than  three 
years  in  a  bearing  state.  In  a  stronger  soil,  with  a  proper 
attention  to  the  shortening  system  of  pruning,  it  may  be  pro- 
longed to  twenty  or  more  years." 

Where  soil  is  thin  and  light,  the  peach-orchard  receives 
top-dressing,  and  the  sod  should  not  be  allowed  to  become 
hard  and  stubborn;  strong  soils  may  be  opened  by  the 
plough,  and  kept  under  culture  with  advantage  to  the  trees. 
The  space  allowed  between  peach-trees  in  orchards  varies 
from  sixteen  to  twenty-five  feet,  the  greater  space  being 
given  to  warm  climates  and  rich  soils. 

A  peach-stone  planted  in  autumn  vegetates  the  following 
spring,  and  may  be  budded  in  August  or  September ;  in  two 
years  more  it  gives  a  small  crop  of  fruit,  and  the  next  sea- 
son, if  not  too  luxuriant  in  growth,  yields  to  the  cultivator  a 
generous  crop. 

For  preserving  the  peach  whole,  select  the  large  October 
Clingstones ;  pare  them  and  weigh  to  them  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar.  Crush  the  sugar  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  sprinkle 
it  over  the  peaches ;  after  they  have  stood  a  few  hours  in 
the  sugar,  put  them  in  the  preserving-pan  with  a  little  water. 
Scald  them,  and  remove  them  carefully  with  a  perforated 
ladle  to  a  flat  dish.  Boil  and  skim  the  sirup,  put  the  fruit 
with  some  blanched  kernels  again  to  the  sirup,  and  preserve 
the  peaches  very  slowly  till  transparent. 

Peach  Marmalade  is  made  of  the  Yellow  Freestone.  Pare 
and  stone  them,  and  put  one  pound  of  good  brown  sugar  to 
every  two  pounds  of  fruit.  Put  it  over  the  fire  without  wa- 
ter if  the  fruit  is  juicy ;  stir  it  frequently,  and  let  it  boil  till 
it  becomes  transparent.  It  is  very  nice  for  pies. 

BRANDIED  PEACHES. 

The  large,  white  peach,  just  ripe,  is  taken  for  this  pur- 
pose. Place  them  in  lye  to  remove  the  down ;  let  the  lye  be 


PEAR.  211 

0 

weak  and  cold.  Take  them  out  and  rub  the  woolly  down 
off  with  a  coarse  crash  towel.  Have  a  rich  clarified  sirup 
prepared,  and  pour  it  scalding  hot  over  the  peaches ;  fill  up 
the  jar  with  pure  French  brandy.  When  cool,  cover  closely. 
If  you  use  glass  jars,  pour  the  scalding  sirup  over  the  fruit 
in  a  stone  vessel. 

PEAR  (Pyrus  communis,  L.).  The  pear-tree  is  not  a 
native  of  America,  but  has  been  introduced  from  Europe. 
"  The  seeds,"  says  Downing,  "  should  be  sown  precisely  like 
those  of  the  apple,  in  broad  drills,  and  the  treatment  of  the 
stocks,  when  planted  in  the  rows  for  budding,  is  quite  simi- 
lar. Budding  is  almost  universally  preferred  by  us  for 
propagating  the  pear,  and  this  tree  takes  so  readily  that 
very  few  failures  can  happen  to  an  experienced  hand."  See 
Budding. 

Seedlings  are  considered  the  best  stocks  for  pears.  Seed- 
lings of  plebeian  birth,  but  strong  and  healthy,  are  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  a  seedling  from  a  pampered  variety.  To  get  seed- 
ling stocks,  clean  the  seed  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  matured, 
and  sow  it  in  deep  rich  soil ;  if  you  have  no  such  soil,  trench 
about  two  feet  deep,  and  fill  up  with  compost  corrected  by 
ashes.  A  healthy  seedling  of  two  years'  growth  is  fit  for 
budding. 

The  dwarf  tree  pear  is  the  pear  grafted  on  some  slow- 
growing  hardy  stock.  The  Quince  is  usually  preferred ;  some 
large  pears  are  said  to  be  improved  in  habit  and  flavor  by 
being  grafted  on  this  stock ;  Downing  instances  the  Duchess 
of  Angouleme  as  so  improved.  The  dwarf  tree  is  generally 
short-lived ;  its  advantages  are  in  the  brief  time  requisite  to 
bring  fruit  to  the  cultivator,  and  its  economy  and  nattiness 
for  a  small  garden.  Though  we  find  the  pear-tree  in  a  great 
variety  of  soils,  yet  a  damp  soil  induces  disease,  and  a  soil 
too  rich  and  deep  tends  to  create  a  rank,  unripened  luxuri- 


212  PEAK. 

ance.  The  pear-tree  requires  but  little  pruning.  In  exten- 
sive orchards  in  warm  latitudes,  the  pear-tree  is  sometimes 
planted  thirty  feet  distant  each  way ;  in  fruit  gardens,  where 
the  heads  are  occasionally  pruned,  twenty  feet  is  often  con- 
sidered sufficient.  Pear-trees  whose  first  vigor  has  gone  by 
require  every  autumn  a  moderate  top-dressing  of  manure, 
instead  of  violent  enriching,  which  induces  disease. 

The  pear  is  attacked  by  an  insect,  Scolytus  pyri,  whose  rav- 
ages produce  the  disease  called  the  insect  blight ;  the  leaves 
become  dry  and  brownish  black,  and  the  wood  becomes  dry 
and  hard.  Remedy :  —  Cut  off  the  diseased  branches  as  soon 
as  the  disease  is  noticed,  some  inches  below  the  withered, 
blighted  symptoms  of  disease,  and  burn  the  branches. 

THE  FROZEN-SAP  BLIGHT. 

This  is  a  more  serious  disease  than  the  former,  the  dis- 
eased sap  spreading  infection  over  the  whole  tree.  It  is  in- 
duced generally  in  soils  that  are  over-rich,  and  force  second 
growths  in  the  same  season,  whose  wood  is  unripened  for 
winter ;  varieties  of  the  pear  which  mature  early  are  not  so 
liable  to  feel  this  disease  as  the  later  growing  sorts.  Culti- 
vators have  found  that  the  means  of  warding  off  the  visits  of 
this  disease  are  to  select  a  rich  but  well  drained  or  dry  soil, 
to  cultivate  such  varieties  as  mature  their  wood  early,  to 
avoid  severe  summer  pruning  and  prune  in  winter  or  early 
spring,  to  reject  cold  soils  and  situations  as  not  favorable  for 
speedy  growth  and  maturing  of  wood,  and  to  abstain  from  sum- 
mer manuring,  as  calculated  to  over-stimulate  and  bring  on  a 
second  growth  of  branches.  Cut  off  the  affected  parts  some 
distance  below  the  diseased  wood ;  if  it  spreads,  cut  again. 
Burn  the  branches  as  you  cut  them. 

Most  varieties  of  pear  have  the  fruit  more  highly  flavored 
by  ripening  it  in  the  house ;  gather  it  when  it  parts  readily 
from  the  stalk,  and  has  assumed  its  double  color ;  spread  the 


PICKLES.  213 

fruit  on  floors  or  shelves.  Winter  dessert  pears  are  allowed 
to  remain  till  there  is  danger  from  frost. 

The  varieties  of  pears  are  too  extensive  to  be  mentioned 
in  a  work  like  the  present :  every  year  adds  to  them.  "  Des- 
sert pears,"  says  Downing,  "  should  have  a  melting,  soft  text- 
ure, and  a  sugary,  aromatic  juice.  Kitchen  pears,  for  baking 
or  stewing,  should  be  large,  with  firm  and  crisp  flesh,  mod- 
erately juicy." 

Perry,  the  fermented  juice  of  the  pear,  is  prepared  much 
the  same  way  as  cider ;  it  makes  a  milder  and  probably  more 
wholesome  drink.  A  pleasant  vinegar  is  made  from  it. 
The  large  pound  pear  is  gently  stewed,  after  being  pared  till 
soft,  in  a  weak  sirup  made  of  brown  sugar. 

Some  pf  the  varieties  of  winter  pears  are  usually  chosen 
for  preserves  and  marmalade.  Owing  to  the  sweetness  of  the 
pear,  an  equal  weight  of  sugar  is  not  taken  for  the  preserve, 
and  a  little  preserved  ginger-root  or  lemon-juice  is  added  to 
the  sirup  of  the  pear. 

PEAS.  Green  peas  should  be  put  into  boiling  water 
with  a  little  salt,  and  some  of  the  less  sweet  varieties  are  im- 
proved by  a  piece  of  sugar.  Leave  the  pot  uncovered,  and 
boil  rapidly.  Twenty  minutes  will  cook  them  if  young. 
Drain  them,  and  put  bits  of  fresh  butter  in  the  dish  and  on 
top  of  the  peas. 

PEPPER.  Piper  nigrum  is  a  plant  which"  grows  in  India. 
This  shrub  produces  common  pepper,  the  unripe  berries  be- 
ing the  common  black  pepper*;  the  matured  seed,  or  berries 
deprived  of  their  epidermis,  is  the  white  pepper  of  commerce. 

PICKLES.  These  articles  are  prepared  by  greening 
them  with  salt  and  water,  and  then  steaming  them  in  spiced 
vinegar,  or  the  salt  is  used,  to  give  some  articles  firmness. 


214  PICKLES. 

Many  housekeepers  do  not  boil  their  vinegar  because  it  loses 
strength  by  it,  but  pour  it  on  to  their  pickles  scalding  hot. 
Put  pickles  in  stone  jars  or  glass  vessels,  never  in  glazed 
dishes.  Pickles  are  made  yellow  by  being  taken  from  the 
brine,  wiped,  and  exposed  on  a  cloth  to  the  action  of  the 
sun,  and  turned  frequently;  if  they  become  white  after  the 
first  day,  they  should  be  put  with  some  turmeric  powder  into 
cold  vinegar,  and  afterwards  into  spiced  vinegar. 

To  pickle  cucumbers,  beans,  and  gherkins,  put  them  in 
salt  and  water,  changing  the  water  every  other  day;  let  them 
remain  nine  days,  drain  them,  and  put  scalding  vinegar  over 
them.  Use  good  wine  or  cider  vinegar  for  pickles. 

To  pickle  onions,  take  the  small  button-onions,  bury  them 
in  salt  six  days,  then  skin  and  trim  them  with  a  sharp  knife; 
throw  boiling  water  over  them  three  times,  allowing  them  to 
cool  each  time  in  the  water.  After  the  third  scalding  put  them 
in  a  glass  jar,  and  fill  it  up  with  white  French  brandy,  put  on 
cold.  Put  a  little  salad-oil  on  the  top  of  the  jar,  and  cover 
closely  with  a  bit  of  bladder  over  the  cork,  or  use  bottle  ce- 
ment. 

Mangoes  are  made  either  of  the  muskmelon  or  cantelope. 
Make  a  slit  with  a  sharp,  knife,  remove  the  seeds,  and  fill 
them,  after  they  have  been  kept  in  a  strong  brine  of  salt  and 
water  for  nine  days,  pouring  it  over  hot  the  first  day.  Rinse 
and  dry  the  melons  with  a  cloth,  and  stuff  them  with  mustard- 
seed,  pepper-corns,  mace,  cloves,  one  small  onion  and  a  gher- 
kin to  each,  a  bit  of  cinnamon  and  scraped  horseradish,  filling 
till  they  are  plumped,  and  tie  each  with  coarse  twine.  Make 
a  bag  of  linen  cloth  and  fill  it  with  ginger-root,  cloves,  mace, 
and  such  spices  as  you  please,  and  lay  it  over  the  mangoes 
after  they  are  laid  in  the  jar.  When  the  strength  of  the 
spices  is  spent,  refill  the  bag  with  French  spice.  Cover  closely. 

To  pickle  cherries,  take  them  when  they  are  just  ripe  but 
while  the  flesh  is  firm,  trim  the  stems,  put  a  layer  in  a  jar, 


PIG.  215 

and  sprinkle  a  little  powdered  loaf-sugar  over  them.  Pro- 
ceed till  the  jar  is  two  thirds  full,  then  pour  over  pale  white 
vinegar,  and  put  a  large  spoonful  of  xsalad-oil  on  top.  Bar- 
berries in  bunches,  and  peaches  not  over  ripe,  may  be  pickled 
in  a  similar  manner ;  only  these  require  to  be  steeped,  and  the 
sugar  may  be  boiled  in  the  vinegar  and  the  sirup  be  poured 
over  a  little  hot. 

To  pickle  cauliflowers,  take  the  fairest  blooms  and  steep 
them  in  scalding  brine  for  a  few  minutes,  drain  them,  and, 
pulling  them  into  branches,  put  them  into  glass  jars  and  pour 
cold  vinegar  over  them. 

To  pickle  the  Black  Walnut  (Juglans  nigrd),  and  the 
Butternut  (J.  cinered)^  gather  the  nuts  when  they  may  be 
easily  pierced  with  a  coarse  needle ;  in  New  England  this 
is  towards  the  last  of  June.  Put  them  into  salt  and  water, 
and  shift  them  every  other  day  for  twenty  days.  Take 
them  out,  drain  them  dry,  turning  them  to  expose  them  to 
the  air.  Put  them  into  jars.  Boil  in  vinegar  cloves,  horse- 
radish, and  onions,  and  pour  over  them  boiling  hot.  Tie 
up  a  little  bag  of  ginger  and  put  it  on  top  of  each  jar.  Tie 
down  close  with  leather  or  bladder  to  exclude  the  air.  In 
three  months  they  will  be  fit  for  use. 

PIG,  TO  ROAST.  Take  a  pig  four  or  five  weeks  old, 
well  cleaned  and  washed,  truss  his  feet  and  skewer  them,  tie 
them  down  flat ;  take  next  some  slices  of  bread,  butter  and 
sift  pulverized  sage  over  them,  put  them  in  the  body  of  the 
pig,  and  sew  him  up.  Put  your  pig  on  the  spit,  have  a  brisk 
fire  with  about  a  pint  of  salt  and  water  in  the  dripping-pan ; 
make  a  swab  and  swab  it  to  prevent  its  burning ;  when  quite 
brown,  butter  freely.  Have  from  the  pan  where  the  pig  is 
roasted  a  full  pint  of  gravy,  take  the  harslet,  previously  boiled, 
chop  it  fine  with  the  brains  from  the  head,  adding  part  of  the 
bread  which  was  in  the  pig  after  cutting  him  for  the  table, 


216  ELUM. 

and  put  all  these  to  the  gravy ;  if  you  find  the  gravy  not  rich 
enough,  add  a  piece  of  butter.  Divide  the  pig  down  the 
back,  after  having  separated  the  head.  Put  it  on  the  dish 
feet  outward,  the  brown  skin  of  course  upwards,  and  the 
head  on  either  side ;  or  put  it  on  separate  dishes  half  and 
half,  placing  them  at  opposite  ends  of  the  table.  Before  re- 
moving the  pig  from  the  spit,  expose  it  on  each  side  to  the 
cold  air  that  it  may  crisp.  A  pig  of  the  above  age  takes 
about  two  hours  before  a  good  fire.  It  must  be  attended  to 
constantly,  or  it  will  get  scorched. 

PLUM  (Prunus  domestica,  L.).  The  plum  of  our  gar- 
dens is  from  the  southern  parts  of  Europe,  or  from  Asia,  but 
it  has  become  thoroughly  naturalized;  the  wild  native  plums, 
of  which  there  are  two  or  three  distinct  species,  have  never 
been  much  cultivated.  The  plum-tree  is  hardy,  and  requires 
little  pruning,  excepting  to  cut  off  diseased  branches,  and  to 
thin  off  a  crowded  top.  Pruning  is  always  undertaken  before 
midsummer,  to  prevent  the  flow  of  sap. 

The  plum  is  easily  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds  of  any 
hardy  variety,  excepting  the  damsons,  which  are  rather  un- 
certain, and  budding  the  seedlings  when  about  two  years  old 
with  desirable  varieties.  Soils  charged  with  heavy  clay  are 
favorable  for  the  plum.  The  muck  from  salt-water  marshes  is 
excellent  manure  for  this  fruit-tree,  and  common  salt  is  also 
much  approved  of;  it  is  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  soil  un- 
der each  matured  healthy  tree,  early  in  spring,  in  proportions 
regulated  by  the  size  and  constitution  of  the  tree ;  some  cul- 
tivators put  half  a  peck  of  coarse  salt  to  large  bearing  trees, 
sprinkling  the  surface  as  far  as  the  branches  extend.  Salt 
is  excellent  for  the  plum-tree,  both  as  a  fertilizer  and  as  a 
preventive  to  the  attacks  of  the  curculio,  or  plum-weevil 
(Rhynchcenus  Nenuphar),  an  insect  whose  ravages  sometimes 
entirely  destroy  the  hopes  of  the  cultivator  of  the  smooth- 


PLUM.  217 

skinned  stone-fruits.  Punctured  by  this  insect,  the  fruit  falls 
when  only  partially  ripe  to  the  ground.  The  best  remedy 
is  said  to  be  a  hard,  heavy  soil,  unpropitious  for  the  workings 
or  life  of  the  insect  or  its  larvae.  The  next  is  to  destroy  all 
the  punctured  plums  as  they  fall,  to  jar  the  tree  with  a  mal- 
let swathed  in  cloth,  and  catch  the  plums  on  a  spread  cloth, 
destroying  the  fruit,  and  to  allow  fowls  to  run  in  the  orchard. 
Keep  the  earth  around  plum-trees  free  from  weeds,  so  that 
insects  may  be  more  readily  discovered,  and  the  smoother 
and  harder  it  is  kept  the  better. 

The  Knots,  Black  Wart,  or  Black  Gum,  is  only  to  be  de- 
stroyed by  cutting  off  the  infected  branches  and  burning  them. 
This  disease  is  thought  to  be  the  work  of  an  insect,  but  noth- 
ing has  ever  been  demonstrated  with  regard  to  the  cause  or 
causes. 

To  preserve  Plums,  select  handsome  fruit,  not  too  ripe, 
and  of  a  fine  flavor ;  mawkishly  sweet  fruit  makes  an  indif- 
ferent preserve.  Pare  and  divide  them  to  remove  the  stone, 
keeping  them  as  whole  as  possible.  Weigh  to  their  weight 
an  equal  quantity  of  the  best  loaf-sugar.  Crack  the  stones, 
and  blanch  the  kernels.  Lay  the  fruit  hollow  upwards  in  flat 
dishes,  and  sift  \vhite  sugar  over  them.  Let  them  stand  over 
night.  In  the  morning  cover  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  with 
the  fruit,  putting  to  them  a  little  water ;  let  them  simmer  very 
slowly,  and  spread  them  after  they  have  simmered  a  few  min- 
utes, as  before,  on  flat  dishes.  Make  the  sirup  of  the  weighed 
sugar  flavored  with  the  kernels  of  the  plum-stones.  Put  the 
plums .  in  glass  jars,  and  when  the  sirup  is  only  warm  pour 
it  over  the  plums.  The  sirup  should  be  clear  and  thick. 
When  cool,  cover  with  brandied  papers,  and  white  paper 
turned  over  and  pasted  down.  Plums  after  being  first  sim- 
mered are  sometimes  preserved  in  apple  jelly. 

The  best  prunes  are  exported  from  France,  and  are  made 
near  Tours  of  the  St.  Catherine  plum,  and  the  Prune  d'Agen; 
19 


218  PRESERVES. 

the  Provence  plums  and  other  kinds  are  also  used ;  these  last 
are  called  in  England  French  plums.     See  Downing. 

PORK,  TO  CUT  UP.  Take  off  the  head  of  the  hog  just 
below  the  ears,  cut  him  open  right  up  and  down  the  back, 
and  take  the  leaf-fat  out  for  the  lard ;  then  take  a  strip  from 
the  pig's  belly  about  one  eighth  of  a  yard  in  width,  this  is 
not  so  nice  as  the  leaf,  and  is  not  usually  mixed  with  prime 
lard.  Turn  the  hog  and  cut  out  his  legs  and  shoulders,  then 
cut  out  the  spareribs  and  chine-bones,  leaving  the  fat  as  thick 
as  possible  for  salting ;  that  is,  cut  very  little  fat  pork  out  with 
the  spareribs  and  chine  bones.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the  pork 
in  strips  the  length  of  the  carcass  and  an  eighth  of  a  yard 
in  width,  and  bend  them  so  as  to  pack  them  for  salting  in  the 
barrel. 

The  fat  round  the  intestines  of  pork  is  usually  tried  out  for 
soap  and  similar  uses. 

POTATOES,  TO  BOIL.  Have  your  potatoes  about  the 
same  size  by  dividing  the  larger  ones.  Cover  them  only 
with  water,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  between  each  layer  of 
potatoes.  Put  them  in  cold  water  and  allow  them  to  simmer 
slowly.  Prove  them  to  see  if  they  are  done ;  if  they  receive 
the  fork  easily,  pour  off  all  the  water,  and  leave  the  kettle 
uncovered,  and  near  enough  to  the  fire  to  evaporate  the  moist- 
ure of  the  potatoes,  but  not  to  scorch  them. 

POULTRY,  TO  PLUCK.  Turkeys  and  chickens,  after 
being  bled  to  death  by  sticking  or  making  an  incision  in  the 
neck,  should  be  put  into  scalding,  but  not  boiling-hot  water, 
and  be  stripped  of  their  feathers.  Geese  and  ducks  may  be 
put  to  water  that  is  nearly  of  a  boiling  heat,  and  then  steamed 
in  a  thick  cloth  that  the  down  may  be  easily  removed. 

PRESERVES.     Where  fruit  is  to  be  kept  for  months 


PUDDINGS.  219 

by  being  preserved  in  sugar,  it  is  the  best  economy  to  pro- 
cure the  double-refined  loaf-sugar;  then  nothing  is  lost  by 
clarifying  and  separation  of  scum  when  making  the  sirup, 
though  when  the  fruit  is  added,  the  crude  acids  that  float  to 
the  surface  should  be  removed.  Let  the  sugar  be  always 
dissolved  in  the  water  before  going  over  the  fire.  Parboil 
and  skim  most  fruits  in  a  weak  sirup,  and  then  cool  them  be- 
fore putting  them  into  the  rich  sirup  made  of  sugar  in  equal 
weight  with  the  fruit.  All  fruits  should  simmer  gently  till  soft 
and  transparent,  and  a  kettle  be  kept  for  the  single  purpose 
of  preserving  them ;  the  porcelain-lined  kettles  are  desirable. 
Select  fruit  for  preserving  that  is  just  ripe,  and  very  fair. 
Most  stone-fruit  should  have  the  stone  taken  out  to  keep 
well.  See  receipts  under  respective  heads. 

To  preserve  Ginger  Root,  soak  the  quantity  you  wish  to 
preserve  two  days  in  warm  water,  then  scrape  it,  and  slice  it 
rather  thin ;  make  a  sirup  of  the  sugar  after  weighing  it  an 
equal  weight  of  the  root ;  take  a  little  of  the  sirup,  dilute  it 
with  water,  boil  the  root  in  it  till  it  is  tender,  then  skim  out 
the  root,  add  the  remainder  of  the  sirup,  and  boil  and  skim 
the  sirup  till  it  is  thick  and  quite  clear ;  pour  it  over  the  gin- 
ger when  cold. 

PUDDINGS.  As  the  intelligent  housekeeper  varies 
these  dishes  to  her  fancy  or  convenience,  we  shall  not  give 
large  space  to  them. 

All  boiled  puddings  should  have  room  left  them  in  the 
cloth  to  swell,  else  they  will  be  hard ;  they  should  be  tied  in 
such  a  manner  as  not  to  admit  the  water,  or  they  will  be 
water-soaked ;  they  should  be  often  turned  in  the  pot  to  pre- 
vent berries  or  raisins  from  settling ;  a  plate  should  be  put 
into  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  that  the  pudding  may  not  get 
scorched.  Before  the  pudding  is  put  into  the  cloth,  this  last 
should  be  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  be  well  shaken,  and  then 


220  PUDDINGS. 

be  dredged  inside  with  flour.  The  cloth,  if  washed  out  in  hot 
lye  instead  of  soap  and  water,  will  be  sweeter,  and  free  of 
the  soapy  taste  that  cooks  sometimes  permit  to  adhere  to 
these  things.  Russia  sheeting  makes  good  pudding-cloths. 

FARMER'S  PUDDING. 

To  one  cup  and  a  half  of  cold  water,  put  a  large  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one  cup  of  molasses,  one  full  cup  of  beef-suet,  one 
full  cup  of  raisins,  flour  enough  to  make  it  stiff.  Tie  it  in  a 
pudding-cloth,  giving  it  room  to  swell ;  when  the  water  boils, 
put  in  your  pudding,  putting  in  a  coarse  plate  to  prevent 
the  pudding  from  burning  before  it  rises.  Three  hours 
will  cook  it.  Be  careful  not  to  allow  the  water  to  stop 
boiling. 

SQUASH  PUDDING. 

One  gill  of  squash,  one  gill  of  milk,  one  egg,  one  ounce  of 
butter ;  rose-water,  sugar,  and  spice  to  your  taste. 

MARLBOROUGH  PUDDING. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  apple  after,  it  is  stewed  and  strained 
through  a  sieve.  Six  eggs,  six  ounces  of  sugar,  six  ounces  of 
butter,  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  a  small  blade  of 
mace  pounded,  a  table-spoonful  of  rose-water  ;  melt  the  but- 
ter and  stir  it  in  just  before  you  put  the  pudding  into  the 
oven.  Both  the  Marlborough  and  Squash  puddings  are 
baked  in  paste. 

THANKSGIVING  PLUM-PUDDING. 

One  loaf  and  a  quarter  of  baker's  bread  grated  and  sift- 
ed without  the  crusts,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  stoned  rai- 
sins, six  ounces  of  butter.  Butter  the  dish  and  cover  with 
bread ;  then  a  layer  of  raisins  and  small  lumps  of  butter  al- 
ternately until  your  dish  is  two  thirds  full.  Then  pour  over 
the  following  custard :  to  nine  gills  of  milk  add  ten  eggs, 


QUINCE.  221 

one  half-pound  of  sugar,  beating  the  sugar  and  eggs  together, 
one  glass  of  wine,  one  half-glass  of  rose-water,  one  glass  of 
brandy,  one  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  dissolved  in  milk,  two 
nutmegs,  and  a  little  salt.  Two  hours  will  bake  it,  and 
if  the  directions  are  followed,  it  is  a  delicious  pudding. 

Sauce  for  the  Same. 

To  one  half-gill  of  wine,  and  the  same  of  rose-water,  half  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar,  and  a  lump  of  butter  as  large  as  a  good- 
sized  egg.  Put  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  it  for  fif- 
teen minutes ;  when  it  has  boiled  up  well,  grate  half  a 
nutmeg  into  the  sauce-boat,  and  pour  the  sauce  in. 

QUINCE  (Cydonia  vulgaris).  This  tree  is  a  native  of 
Europe.  Its  reputation  commenced  in  the  city  of  Cydon, 
in  Crete  or  Candia,  whence  its  botanical  name. 

The  Quince  may  be  grown  either  as  a  bush  or  a  tree.  It 
may  be  propagated  from  seed,  layers,  or  cuttings  ;  but  the  seed 
is  uncertain,  the  seedlings  sometimes  being  the  apple-shaped 
and  as  often  the  pear-shaped  variety,  though  taken  from  the 
first,  and  vice  versa.  Cuttings,  shaded  and  planted  early  in 
spring,  root  readily,  and  most  cultivators  recommend  this 
mode  of  securing  a  good  variety.  The  approved  sorts  may 
also  be  budded  on  common  seedling  Quince  stocks,  or  on  the 
common  Thorn.  We  have  seen  that  the  Pear  is  dwarfed  on 
Quince  stocks.  The  Quince  should  have  a  deep,  rich  soil, 
and  an  annual  top-dressing  of  manure,  to  have  the  fruit  in 
perfection.  It  requires  but  little  pruning ;  to  be  relieved  of 
crowded  or  unhealthy  branches  is  here  its  only  need.  It 
has  visits  from  the  Borer ;  but  this  and  other  insects  must  be 
watched  and  destroyed,  as  directed  for  the  Apple-tree. 

There  are  three  very  distinct  varieties  of  the  Quince  that 
are  especially  useful.     The  Apple-shaped  Quince  or  Orange 
Quince.     Fruit  of  the  size  of  the  largest  apple,  skin  smooth, 
19* 


222  QUINCE. 

color  fine  golden.  The  most  popular  fruit  for  preserving,  as 
it  cooks  tender,  and  the  trees  bear  abundant  crops.  There 
are  inferior  varieties  of  this  species. 

The  Pear-shaped  Quince  or  Oblong  Quince,  formed  like  a 
pear,  ripens  a  fortnight  later  than  the  Apple  Quince.  Flesh 
is  rather  tough,  and  makes  an  inferior  preserve  when  com- 
pared to  the  above,  both  in  color  and  tenderness.  It  has  an 
aromatic  flavor,  and  affords  a  good  jelly. 

The  Portugal  Quince  has  a  healthy  growth,  with  a  leaf 
larger  and  broader  than  the  more  common  varieties.  Its 
healthy  habits  make  it  a  favorite  with  many  gardeners  for 
stocks  on  which  to  engraft  or  bud  the  Pear.  The  fruit  is  of 
the  largest  size,  oblong ;  but  the  color  of  the  skin  is  not  so 
deep  an  orange  as  that  of  the  other  kinds. 

The  Portugal  Quince  yields  a  scanty  crop,  and  is  styled 
by  cultivators  a  shy  bearer,  and  is  not  consequently  so  gen- 
erally cultivated  as  the  Apple  Quince ;  its  fruit  is  milder 
than  that  of  other  quinces,  cooks  more  tenderly,  and  assumes 
when  cooked  a  purplish-crimson  color. 

The  Musk  Quince  bears  fruit  of  only  half  the  size  of  the 
common  sorts.  It  is  highly  scented,  but  owing  to  its  size  is 
little  cultivated  for  market. 

Besides  these  useful  varieties,  there  are  ornamental  varie- 
ties from  Japan  and  China.  They  are  exceedingly  pretty 
and  well-known  garden  shrubs. 

The  Japan  Quince  (Cydonia  Japonica)  has  small  dark- 
green  leaves,  and  clusters  of  brilliant  scarlet  blossoms.  Fruit 
useless. 

The  Blush  Japan  is  very  like  the  above,  excepting  that 
the  flowers  are  white  and  blush. 

The  Chinese  Quince  ( Cydonia  Sinensis)  has  oval  leaves, 
glossy  surface,  small,  red  blossom,  with  a  delicate  odor.  The 
leaves  red-tinted  in  autumn.  The  fruit  ripens  late;  it  is 
a  large  oval,  and  is  said  to  make  an  agreeable  preserve. 

Quince-trees  are  set  about  ten  feet  apart. 


QUINCE.  223 

To  PRESERVE  QUINCES. 

Rub  the  quinces  hard  with  a  clean  coarse  cloth,  scald  them 
till  you  can  pass  a  fork  through  them,  then  peel  them  and 
cut  them  in  quarters ;  remove  all  the  hard  substance  which 
is  found  in  the  centre  of  the  fruit  after  the  core  is  taken  out 
(for  this  spoils  the  quince  if  left  in).  Then  take  the  sirup 
which  has  been  previously  prepared  thus:  To  every  pound 
of  sugar  one  half-pint  of  water,  and  in  proportion  to  four 
pounds  of  sugar  the  white  of  one  egg,  put  them  together 
cold,  and  when  dissolved  put  it  over  a  moderate  fire  to  sim- 
mer gently ;  do  not  touch  it  while  simmering,  but  when  it 
begins  to  rise,  have  ready  to  pour  upon  it  half  a  teacup  of 
cold  water ;  when  it  swells  up  the  second  time,  put  in  another 
half-teacup  of  cold  water ;  but  when  it  rises  the  third  time, 
take  it  off  gently  from  the  fire,  and  sit  it  by  to  cool  twenty 
minutes ;  then  skim  it  and  pour  it  off,  wash  the  kettle  clean, 
cover  the  bottom  with  the  quince,  pour  over  just  sirup  enough 
to  cover  them,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  till  the  sirup  be- 
comes a  jelly.  Keep  the  kettle  covered  (except  wljen  you 
are  removing  the  white,  which  will  rise,  and  must  be  taken 
off),  and  if  the  Apple  Quince  is  used,  the  fruit  will  be  perfect- 
ly white  and  well  done ;  take  the  quarters  out  on  a  dish,  and 
when  the  sirup  is  cool,  put  them  together  in  glasses. 

Another  Way. 

Select  the  fairest  fruit  of  the  Apple-shaped  or  Portugal  va- 
rieties, wipe  them  and  peel  and  core  them ;  as  you  divide 
them  in  halves  and  quarters,  sprinkle  loaf-sugar  over  them ; 
weigh  against  the  fruit  the  best  loaf-sugar,  pound  for  pound, 
and  put  this  sugar  aside  to  make  the  sirup,  as  above  directed. 
Put  the  fruit  into  the  bottom  of  the  preserving-kettle  and 
just  cover  it  with  water ;  let  it  simmer  gently,  when  remove 
it  to  a  flat  dish  and  sift  white  sugar  over  it,  and  put  the  dish 
into  an  oven  almost  spent,  leaving  the  door  open ;  do  so  till 


224:  RABBIT. 

the  whole  amount  has  been  in  the  oven  about  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes  ;  then  take  it  all  out,  and  set  it  on  one  side  in 
a  dry  closet,  covering  it.  Make  the  sirup,  and  the  following 
day  preserve  the  quince  till  the  sirup  jellies.  Add  the  wa- 
ter, strained,  that  the  fruit  was  partially  cooked  in,  to  the 
sirup,  letting  it  simmer  with  it.  The  fruit  thus  preserved 
will  have  a  high  flavor,  and  be  a  rich,  purplish  red. 

Jelly  may  be  made  of  the  parings  and  the  cores  of  the 
quince,  though,  where  the  fruit  is  plenty,  the  whole  quince  is 
washed,  wiped,  and  sliced  through  without  paring,  and  the 
kettle  filled,  and  the  fruit  just  covered  with  water ;  when  the 
fruit  is  tender,  the  whole  is  passed  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag. 
To  each  pint  of  juice  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  pounded  is  added. 
Boil  about  twenty  minutes.  If  the  fruit  and  sugar  are  both 
of  best  quality,  and  the  water  is  merely  enough  to  cover  the 
quince,  less  sugar  may  be  used  to  bring  a  good  jelly ;  but 
great  care  is  requisite  in  this  last  case,  whereas  the  full  pro- 
portions yield  a  jelly  without  trouble. 

RABBIT.  We  have,  besides  our  wild  rabbit  (Lepus 
Americanus),  the  European  rabbit,  which  has  been  largely 
imported.  Our  rabbit  is  distinguished  from  the  European 
rabbit  (Lepus  cuniculus)  by  its  hind  legs  being  nearly  ten 
inches  long,  and  its  change  of  color,  in  the  summer  being 
covered  with  brown  and  ash-colored  fur,  which  in  winter  be- 
comes white  and  increases  in  length ;  it  is  frequently  styled 
the  American  Hare.  There  is  also  the  Siberian  rabbit 
(Lepus  tolai). 

Where  the  tame  rabbit  is  reared  for  profit,  the  variety  se- 
lected for  breeding  should  be  of  the  larger  kinds.  "  Those 
termed,"  says  Professor  Low,  "  the  French  and  Turkish  rab- 
bits, are  much  esteemed.  The  rabbit  selected  for  breeding, 
we  are  informed  by  the  breeders  of  them,  should  be  wide  in 


RASPBERRY.  225 

the  loin,  and  short-legged.  In  the  management  of  the  rab- 
bit, the  utmost  attention  must  be  paid  to  ventilation,  cleanli- 
ness, and  food.  The  animals  are  most  conveniently  kept  in 
boxes,  or  compartments  termed  hutches,  one  above  the  other 
round  the  room.  Each  hutch  intended  for  the  does  should 
have  two  divisions,  one  for  feeding  and  the  other  for  sleep- 
ing. Those  are  single  which  are  intended  for  the  use  of  the 
weaned  rabbits,  or  for  the  bucks,  which  are  always  removed 
from  the  female.  There  should  be  little  troughs  in  the 
hutches  for  the  food,  which  consists  of  corn,  hay,  roots,  and 
green  plants,  or  any  farinaceous  substance.  Boiled  potatoes 
are  an  excellent  food  for  the  rabbit,  as  for  every  kind  of  her- 
bivorous animal.  The  female,  when  the  time  of  parturition 
approaches,  makes  her  nest,  for  which  hay  is  to  be  furnished 
her.  She  bites  it  with  her  teeth  into  the  requisite  size. 
She  generally  produces  from  five  to  ten  young.  At  the  end 
of  six  weeks  the  male  is  again  admitted  to  her,  and  the  young 
ones  weaned,  or  she  is  allowed  to  suckle  them  for  two  weeks 
more.  They  are  either  sold  from  the  teat  when  they  are  ex- 
tremely delicate,  or  they  are  kept  on  for  a  certain  period 
and  fattened.  Good  and  nourishing  food  is  to  be  supplied  to 
them,  and  three  months'  feeding  is  generally  considered  ne- 
cessary to  fatten  them  properly." 

The  rearing  of  the  domestic  rabbit,  on  account  of  the  pro- 
lificness  of  the  animal,  its  wholesome  flesh,  and  the  little  ex- 
pense attending  its  keeping,  appears  to  be  worthy  of  more 
attention  than  it  has  received. 

The  doe  carries  her  young  about  thirty  days :  if  she  be 
weak  after  parturition,  some  warm  drink  is  given  to  her, 
such  as  milk  and  water,  or  beer  caudle.  Green  food,  such 
as  clover,  should  not  be  given  wet,  as  it  produces  disease ;  it 
should  also  be  varied  with  oats  and  similar  substances. 

RASPBERRY  (Rulus  Idaus).     This  shrub,  it  is  well 


226  RASPBERRY. 

known,  repays  careful  culture.  It  is  propagated  by  suckers 
or  offshoots,  seed  being  used  only  for  obtaining  new  varieties. 
Two  or  three  suckers  are  generally  put  together  to  form  a 
group  or  stool;  plant  the  suckers  in  rows  about  three,  or,  if 
convenient,  five  feet  apart,  and  the  stools  about  three  or  four 
feet  apart,  in  the  rows.  Let  the  soil  be  deep  and  rich,  rather 
moist  than  dry.  Keep  them  free  from  weeds.  Prune  when 
the  crop  is  off,  by  cutting  away  old  wood  and  feeble  suckers, 
and  trim  back  about  a  foot  of  the  remaining  shoots,  and  give 
each  hill  a  light  top-dressing  of  vegetable  mould,  and  a  little 
salt  or  sea-weed  may  be  worked  in  with  other  fertilizers. 
The  foreign  varieties  require  to  be  treated  in  the  fall  like 
climbing  roses :  round  each  hill  put  straw  and  sea-weed,  and, 
bending  the  branches  gently  over,  cover  them  for  the  winter 
with  evergreen  boughs.  In  spring  the  bushes  are  trained,  or 
simply  tied  to  stakes  or  rails,  so  as  to  be  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Late  fruit  is  obtained  by  cutting  down  some  of  the  stools  to 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  ground. 

A  plantation  of  raspberries  is  considered  to  be  in  perfec- 
tion at  the  third  year,  and  to  be  exhausted  in  five  or  six 
years,  when  a  new  one  should  be  laid  out  on  another  piece 
of  ground. 

The  common  American  Red  Raspberry  is  a  native  of  the 
Eastern  and  Middle  States.  It  is  valued  for  cordials.  (See 
Cordials.) 

The  American  Black,  or  Thimbleberry,  is  stewed  for  a 
common  preserve. 

The  American  White  is  similar  to  the  Thimbleberry,  ex- 
cepting in  the  color  of  its.  fruit,  which  is  of  a  pale  yellow  or 
white. 

The  most  desirable  foreign  varieties  (though  these  things 
are  constantly  progressive)  are  the  True  or  New  Red  Ant- 
werp (the  common  Red  Antwerp  being  inferior)  ;  the  Yel- 
low Antwerp,  a  large  light-colored  raspberry;  the  Fran- 


SALADS.  227 

conia,  a  variety  imported  from  France  by  S.  G.  Perkins, 
Esq.  of  Boston  ;  the  Fastolff  Raspberry,  an  English  variety 
of  great  reputation  ;  and  some  others  of  good  reputation. 

The  Ohio  Everbearing  is  a  native  of  Ohio ;  it  is  like  the 
American  Black  Raspberry,  excepting  that  it  bears  late  in 
the  season,  even  to  November  in  favorable  seasons. 

A  wine  is  made  from  the  raspberry  in  the  same  manner  as 
from  the  currant.  Raspberry-jam  may  be  made  by  weighing 
an  equal  quantity  of  sugar  to  the  fruit,  and  boiling  them  to- 
gether. A  very  nice  way  of  preserving  this  fruit  is  found 
in  the  following  receipt. 

RASPBERRY-JAM. 

One  pint  of  currant-jelly,  one  quart  of  raspberries ;  ex- 
amine the  fruit  well  to  remove  all  insects,  bruise  the  fruit 
and  jelly  together,  and  set  over  a  slow  fire,  keeping  it  stir- 
ring with  a  silver  spoon  all  the  time  till  it  boils.  Allow  it 
to  boil  five  or  six  minutes.  Pour  it  into  your  glasses  warm, 
papering  them  as  you  do  currant-jelly.  It  will  keep  for  two 
or  three  years,  and  have  the  full  flavor  of  the  raspberry. 

SALADS.  These  dishes  should  never  be  fully  prepared 
till  just  before  they  make  their  appearance  on  the  table,  so 
that  the  vegetables  or  herbs  may  be  crisp  and  light ;  and 
where  meats  are  used,  as  lobster  and  chicken,  the  dressing 
should  be  poured  on  at  the  last  moment,  otherwise  the  mus- 
tard toughens  the  meat,  and  gives  the  whole  dish  a  flabby, 
spent  look. 

CHICKEN  SALAD. 

Boil  a  hen-chicken  or  fowl  that  has  a  white  skin  till  ten- 
der. When  cold,  cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  in  size.  Take  a  bunch  of  celery  (or  two  if 
small),  have  it  nicely  cleaned,  and  keep  in  cold  water  till  just 
before  it  is  cut  up.  Prepare  the  dressing  thus :  Take  five 


228  SAUCES. 

eggs  and  boil  them  hard  for  ten  minutes,  mash  the  yolks 
with  a  wooden  spoon  very  smoothly,  mix  with  them  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  mild  mustard  (half  of 
this  if  very  sharp),  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sweet  olive-oil, 
one  small  teaspoonful  of  India  soy  or  Worcester-sauce,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Beat  the  whole  together.  Cut 
the  celery  into  bits  of  half  an  inch,  mix  it  well  with  the 
chicken,  and  then  shape  the  whole  with  the  wooden  spoon, 
and  garnish  with  the  green  leaves  of  the  celery,  and  slices  of 
cold,  hard-boiled  eggs.  Have  the  whole  lie  lightly,  so  that 
the  dressing  when  poured  on  may  settle  all  over  the  salad. 
Serve  with  a  boxwood  spoon  and  fork. 

SAUCES.  These  matters  are  best  made  for  the  most 
part  in  the  bain-marie  or  double  kettle,  the  outside  compart- 
ment being  filled  with  hot  water ;  especially  should  the  bain- 
marie  be  used  for  butter,  egg,  and  cream  sauces. 

MELTED  BUTTER. 

Mix  in  half  a  gill  of  water  smoothly  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
flour  and  a  little  salt;  take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
and  work  out  all  buttermilk.  Put  the  water  and  flour  to 
the  fire,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  stir  in  the  butter  till  it 
is  melted,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire.  Make  melted  butter 
just  as  it  is  wanted.  This  sauce  may  be  flavored  with  vari- 
ous essences,  herbs,  capers,  or  what  you  please.  For  fish, 
stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-sauce. 

FISH  SAUCE. 

Rub  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  into  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter ;  when  well  kneaded,  put  it  into  your  pan  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water.  Take  the  boiled  liver  of  your  fish,  and 
bruise  it  very  fine,  put  to  it  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Just  as  the  butter,  which 


SAUCES. 

should  be  constantly  shaken,  begins  to  boil,  add  the  liver 
with  its  vinegar,  and  remove  the  sauce  from  the  fire. 
Serve  in  a  boat,  or  over  the  fish.  Vinegar  may  be  flavored 
with  tarragon  by  gathering  the  leaves  of  the  herb  in  July 
or  August,  and  filling  a  bottle  half-full  of  tarragon  leaves,  and 
filling  up  with  vinegar. 

RUSSIAN  SAUCE  FOR  COLD  MEATS. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish  (grate  it  with 
a  fine  grater),  two  spoonfuls  of  made  mustard,  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  the  same  quantity  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  and  vine- 
gar enough  to  cover  the  ingredients.  Keep  it  closely  bot- 
tled, and  it  will  keep  for  some  months. 

EGG  SAUCE. 

Melt  your  butter  thick,  and  chop  fine  two  or  three  eggs 
that  have  been  boiled  ten  minutes.  Put  the  chopped  egg 
into  the  boat,  and  pour  the  melted  butter  over  them.  This 
is  eaten  with  boiled  chicken  or  boiled  fish. 

OYSTER  SAUCE  FOR  A  BOILED  COD. 

Strain  the  oysters  from  their  liquor,  wash  them  out  in  cold 
water,  and  drain  them  dry.  Pour  the  liquor  from  its  sedi- 
ment, and  put  it  over  the  fire ;  to  a  pint  of  liquor  put  one 
glass  of  claret,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  blade  of  mace,  and 
a  little  butter  thickened  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  let  it  al- 
most boil,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  let  it  melt, 
shaking  it  well ;  lastly  add,  after  taking  out  the  mace,  a  dozen 
and  a  half  of  oysters ;  let  them  scald,  but  not  boil.  Put  the 
sauce  into  a  boat. 

GAME  SAUCE. 

Grate  half  of  a  baker's  loaf  of  bread  (cutting  off  the 
crusts)  ;  add  to  it  a  little  salt  and  grated  nutmeg,  half  a  gill  of 
20 


230  SEA-KALE. 

claret,  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges ;  when  your  fowls  are  half 
roasted,  put  the  above  over  the  fire  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  into  which  you  have  kneaded  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
flour;  shake  it  while  it  melts,  then  put  it  under  your  fowls 
with  the  gravy  in  the  pan. 

Celery  makes  a  good  sauce  for  game,  when  cut  in  bits  and 
boiled  till  tender,  adding  a  little  cream,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  and  seasoning  with  pounded  mace  and  a  very  little 
nutmeg.  Celery  is  so  abundant  in  flavor  that  but  little  spice 
should  ever  be  used  with  it. 

Venison  sauce  is  usually  made  by  adding  to  the  gravy  cur- 
rant-jelly and  a  glass  of  red  or  white  wine ;  or  the  jelly  may 
be  served  in  small  glass  dishes,  as  venison  is  always  eaten 
over  chafing  or  hot-water  dishes. 

SAUSAGES.     Hon.  L.  J 's  Parisian  receipt  is  as 

follows :  Three  ounces  of  sage,  two  and  a  half  of  cloves,  two 
and  a  half  of  pepper,  eight  of  salt,  and  three  nutmegs,  to 
twenty-five  pounds  of  meat,  which  should  be  one  half  fat  and 
one  half  lean.  This  is  a  very  nice  receipt  for  sausages,  and 
was  given  to  me  by  a  gentleman  who  resided  several  years 
in  Paris,  and  there  procured  it.  It  is  unnecessary  to  say 
that  the  sage  and  spices  should  be  pulverized,  and  well 
pounded  and  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  finely  chop- 
ped meat.  It  may  be  cooked  either  in  balls  or  skins. 

SEA-KALE.  (Choumarin.  Orambe  maritima.)  This 
plant  is  grown,  cooked,  and  served  (excepting  the  toast)  very 
much  as  asparagus. 

It  should  be  gathered  before  it  is  matured,  for  then  it  is 
tough  and  stringy.  Soak  it  in  salt  and  water,  and  then  put 
in  some  fresh  water  with  a  little  salt ;  let  the  pot  be  filled 
with  water,  and  let  the  kale  boil  quickly  for  fifteen  or  twenty 


SOUPS.  231 

minutes.  Drain  it  very  thoroughly,  and  serve  with  butter- 
sauce,  or  bits  of  butter  laid  under  and  over  it.  This  vegeta- 
ble requires  to  be  freshly  gathered  when  it  goes  to  the  pot. 
Keep  the  pot  while  boiling,  for  the  most  part,  uncovered. 

SOAP  FOR  WASHING.  Two  pounds  of  hard  soap, 
four  quarts  of  rain-water ;  let  it  dissolve  ;  add  one  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  saleratus ;  let  it  almost  boil,  then  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  tartaric  acid,  one  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot ;  let  it 
all  boil  twenty  minutes.  Pour  it  out  into  a  baking-pan ;  let 
it  stand  all  day  and  over  night,  then  slice  it,  and  put  it  in 
the  oven  to  dry.  This  soap  makes  flannels  look  handsomely. 

OX-GALL  SOAP. 

Take  one  quart  of  ox-gall,  and  slice  into  it  two  pounds  of 
best  yellow  soap  (Alexander  Dickinson's  Extra  No.  1,  man- 
ufactured at  Cambridge,  Mass.,  is  the  kind  I  have  used).  Set 
it  on  the  range  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  soap  is  dissolved 
or  melted ;  add  a  large  spoonful  of  table-salt,  and  pour  it  into 
flat  pans ;  cut  it  into  bars  when  cold,  and  dry  it ;  it  will  be- 
come very  hard  and  keep  for  years.  A  very  little  of  it  will 
wash  nice  prints,  de  laines,  &c.,  and  it  is  excellent  to  wash 
or  scour  woollen  table-cloths,  piano-covers,  &c. 

SOUPS.  I  have  given  some  rules  for  soups  when  speak- 
ing of  almond  soup  and  turtle  soup ;  here,  therefore,  I  shall 
give  but  a  few  receipts  for  these  preparations.  To  offer  re- 
ceipts for  shank  soups,  or  mutton  broths,  to  American  house- 
keepers, would  be  to  expose  myself  to  the  rebuke  given  by 
Judge  Marshall  to  the  counsellor  who  was  proceeding  to  lay 
out  his  mental  wares  much  as  Sydney  Smith  says  a  French- 
man does  of  whom  you  have  imprudently  asked  information 
upon  some  point,  when  the  mild  Judge  finally  interrupted  the 
everlasting  drone  of  commonplace  with,  "  Mr. ,  there  are 


232  SOUPS. 

some  things  with  which  the  Court  should  be  supposed  to  be 
acquainted." 

CLAM  SOUP. 

Brown  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  thicken  it  with 
flour,  then  pour  in  as  much  water  as  you  judge  sufficient  for 
your  soup,  put  in  a  piece  of  veal  or  small  leg  of  lamb,  and 
one  pint  of  clam-liquor,  a  finely  chopped  onion,  a  little  thyme, 
pounded  pepper,  cloves,  and  mace,  but  no  salt,  as  the  clam- 
liquor  will  answer  for  that ;  add  a  gill  of  wine,  Madeira  or 
sherry ;  a  yam  boiled  in  it  is  a  great  improvement ;  let  it  boil 
three  hours,  when  take  not  less  than  fifty  clams,  trim  them 
and  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  and  throw  them  in  the  soup 
half  an  hour  before  you  dish.  The  Yam  (Dioscorea  sativa) 
is  extensively  grown  in  the  West  Indies ;  its  root  is  farina- 
ceous, and  it  is  both  roasted  and  boiled,  or  served  in  soups 
when  it  can  be  procured,  where  its  presence  is  thought  to  be 
much  desired. 

MOCK-TURTLE    SOUP. 

Boil  the  well-cleaned  calf's  head  and  feet  in  water  just 
sufficient  to  cover  them ;  skim  it  well,  and  allow  it  to  boil  till 
the  meat  can  be  easily  cut  from  the  bones.  Take  out  all  the 
bones  and  cut  the  meat  in  small  pieces  and  strain  the  liquor 
over  it ;  add  to  it  one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ground  pepper, 
one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pounded  clove,  some  pulverized 
sweet  herbs ;  put  it  again  in  a  clean  kettle  over  the  fire,  and 
let  it  simmer,  but  not  boil.  About  half  an  hour  before  you 
take  the  soup  up,  put  in  forcemeat  balls ;  have  the  balls  the 
size  of  large  English  walnuts ;  reserve  some  of  the  forcemeat 
balls  to  fry  brown  in  butter ;  at  the  same  time  have  ready  a 
bottle  of  claret  or  port  wine,  and  pour  it  into  the  kettle. 
Boil  twelve  eggs  ten  minutes,  and  when  the  soup  is  to  be 
sent  in,  cut  the  eggs  in  two  pieces  and  garnish  the  sides  of  the 
dish  with  them  and  slices  of  lemon.  Have  some  of  the  force- 


STRAWBERRY.  233 

meat  balls  served  hot  on  small  oval  dishes.     These  should 
be  fried  a  delicate  brown. 

Forcemeat  for  the  above :  —  Take  a  loaf  of  baker's  flour- 
bread,  and  grate  it;  add  an  equal  quantity  of  beef-suet, 
chopped  very  fine ;  season  highly  with  pepper,  clove,  salt,  nut- 
meg or  mace,  cayenne,  sweet-marjoram,  and  wet  the  whole 
with  eggs  till  they  may  be  rolled  in  balls.  Those  which  you 
fry  will  require  but  little  butter,  as  the  fat  fries  from  them. 

OYSTER  SOUP. 

To  fifty  oysters,  one  pint  of  water,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
milk,  to  be  mixed  with  the  liquor.  Wash  the  oysters  from 
their  liquor,  and  strain  the  last  or  pour  it  from  its  sediment ; 
then  add  the  water,  and  half  a  spoonful  of  ground  mace,  a 
salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  salt-spoonful  of  ground  clove ;  let 
it  come  to  a  boil ;  strain  it  through  a  cloth,  then  add  the  milk 
and  the  oysters,  and  let  it  come  once  more  to  a  boil.  Take 
one  large  spoonful  of  flour  mixed  smoothly  like  mustard,  stir  it 
in,  and  take  off  the  pot ;  put  in  a  piece  of  butter ;  brown  three 
thin  slices  of  bread  well  dried  in  the  oven  previous  to  toasting, 
cut  them  in  small  square  pieces  and  lay  them  in  the  dish,  and 
pour  the  soup  over  them. 

STRAWBERRY.  (Fragaria.)  Select  for  this  valu- 
able plant  a  deep  loamy  soil,  that  will  allow  of  free  culture ; 
for  though  an  herbaceous  plant,  the  roots  of  many  varieties  if 
encouraged  will  penetrate  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  in  one 
season ;  hence  the  ground  should  be  ploughed  and  thoroughly 
pulverized  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more,  then  spread  on  a 
few  inches  of  well-decomposed  stable-manure,  and  harrow  in, 
making  the  ground  level ;  mark  it  off  by  a  line  in  alternate 
rows  of  three  feet  by  eighteen  inches.  Choose  strong  young 
plants,  taking  them  up  carefully  in  order  that  the  roots  may 
be  entire,  and  set  them  in  the  rows,  eighteen  or  twelve  inches 
20* 


234  STRAWBERRY. 

asunder.  In  its  wild  state,  the  strawberry  blossom  is  perfect ; 
but  culture  has  altered  the  habits  of  most  of  the  varieties, 
though  the  European  Wood  and  Alpine  Strawberries  still,  un- 
der every  cultivation,  retain  their  primitive  habits,  giving  from 
every  blossom  perfect  fruit.  Barren  plants  are  those  which 
have  flowers  in  an  imperfect  state,  deficient  either  in  stamens 
or  pistils ;  imperfectly  provided  with  pistils,  they  are  styled 
male  plants ;  deficient  in  stamens,  female  plants.  But  the 
term  is  a  convenient  rather  than  a  correct  one,  as  the  or- 
gans are  not  absent,  but  only  imperfectly  matured. 

In  view  of- this  habit  of  the  cultivated  Strawberry,  the  plants 
are  set  out  in  the  proportion  of  one  staminate  to  fifteen  or 
twenty  pistillates,  either  in  alternate  rows  or  in  close  proxim- 
ity. The  pistillate  flowers  produce  the  fruit,  but  the  pollen 
of  the  staminate  has  previously  fertilized  them.  Cultivators 
watch  the  growth  and  bearing  habits  of  their  plants,  and  those 
which  are  barren  are  not  allowed  to  usurp  the  bed,  but  are 
kept  trimmed  of  runners.  Stakes  may  be  put  in  near  the 
fruitful  plants,  and  runners  be  selected  from  good  bearers  for 
new  beds. 

Early  in  the  spring  is  the  best  time  for  setting  out  plants, 
varying  of  course  according  to  the  season  and  the  latitude. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  ground  free  from  weeds 
through  the  summer,  and  at  the  approach  of  winter  the  beds 
should  be  covered  two  or  three  inches  deep  with  coarse  lit- 
ter, vegetable  mould,  and  earth  from  the  woods.  This  light 
dressing  need  not  be  disturbed  in  the  spring,  as  the  plants 
will  find  their  way  through  and  grow  vigorously. 

VARIETIES. 

These  are  very  numerous,  many  having  been  introduced 
from  abroad.  Our  native  Wood  Strawberry,  called  abroad 
Virginia  Scarlet,  has  given  us  the  varieties  called  Scarlet 
Strawberries;  the  Pine  or  Surinam  Strawberry,  the  sorts 


STRAWBERRY.  235 

called  Pines ;  the  Wood  Strawberry  of  Europe,  the  class 
called  "Woods  and  Alpines ;  the  Hautbois  are  from  Bohemia, 
the  Chili  Strawberries  from  South  America;  and  besides 
these  sorts  there  are  green,  white,  and  black  Strawberries. 
For  all  practical  purposes  one  or  two  best  varieties  should 
be  chosen,  the  early  and  later  bearers. 

Early  Virginia  is  an  early  bearer,  yielding  early  in  June 
till  towards  the  last  of  the  month.  It  is  a  bright  scarlet, 
very  juicy,  and  a  general  favorite. 

Hovey's  Seedling  comes  into  bearing  as  the  Virginia  Early 
goes  out,  and  continues  into  July.  As  is  well  known,  it  was 
raised  in  1833  by  Messrs.  Hovey,  in  their  garden  at  Cam- 
bridge. It  has  more  than  any  other  variety  raised  the  char- 
acter of  the  Strawberry.  It  is  easily  hulled,  yields  abun- 
dantly, and  the  vines  are  very  vigorous.  It  is  cultivated  not 
only  in  New  England,  but  the  farmers  of  Virginia  hold  it 
their  choicest  variety. 

Among  the  Pine' Strawberries,  Poss's  Phoenix,  when  culti- 
vated on  a  rich,  deep  loam,  bears  a  high  reputation,  and  a 
heavy  crop  of  fruit.  It  grows  in  clusters,  the  berries  flattened 
at  the  top ;  it  has  a  rich,  fine  flavor,  and  a  colour  of  dark  pur- 
plish-red. In  the  extreme  Eastern  States  it  is  an  uncertain 
bearer. 

Alpine  and  Wood  Strawberries  have  varieties  which  are 
popular,  owing  to  their  continuing  in  bearing  till  late  in  the 
season,  and  to  their  flavor,  which  is  fragrant  and  sweet.  The 
Bush  Alpines  are  distinguished  for  being  without  runners ; 
they  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots.  They  make  a 
good  border. 

The  Hautbois  Strawberries  have  a  variety  called  Prolific 
Hautbois,  which  bears  abundantly.  Its  flowers  are  always 
perfect,  rising  above  the  leaves ;  the  fruit  is  dark-colored,  of 
a  rich,  musky  flavor,  ripening  rather  early.  The  vines  some* 
times  bear  a  second  crop.  This  variety  does  not  mix, 


236  TOMATO. 

PRESERVED  STRAWBERRIES. 

Take  the  largest  and  best  garden  strawberries  that  are  not 
over-ripe ;  weigh  against  each  pound  of  fruit  a  pound  of  the 
best  loaf-sugar;  set  it  aside  for  the  sirup.  Sprinkle  the  fruit 
with  a  little  powdered  white  sugar ;  make  the  sirup  with  the 
weighed  sugar ;  set  it  one  side  to  cool.  Put  the  strawberries 
over  the  fire  in  a  bain-marie,  with  the  sirup  which  they  have 
made  of  the  powdered  sugar ;  let  them  be  scalded  and  then 
taken  off  and  cooled.  When  cold,  put  them  in  the  prepared 
sirup  ;  let  them  simmer  slowly  till  they  look  clear,  take  them 
out  gently  into  glasses.  Boil  and  skim  the  sirup,  and  when 
cold  put  it  over  the  fruit.  The  sooner  strawberries  are  pre- 
served after  being  gathered,  the  better.  (See  Cordials.) 

SWEETBREADS.  Veal  sweetbreads  should  be  cooked 
while  they  are  fresh  ;  they  spoil  easily,  and  then  are  entirely 
lost.  Trim  them,  taking  out  the  gristle,  and  keep  them  in 
cold  water  till  they  are  to  be  cooked.  When  to  be  cooked, 
split  them  open,  and  put  them  in  boiling  water;  boil  them 
ten  minutes,  and  then  take  them  off  and  put  them  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water.  This  treatment  renders  them  white  and  firm. 
They  are  now  ready  to  be  fricasseed,  in  the  same  manner  as 
chickens  cut  up  are,  or  to  be  fried  in  butter,  or  minced  for 
omelets  or  croquettes. 

TOMATO,  BAKED.  Take  tomatoes  that  are  just  ripe, 
remove  the  skins  by  pouring  hot  water  over  them,  but  in 
peeling  keep  them  as  whole  as  possible.  Put  into  a  baking- 
dish  grated  bread  and  bits  of  butter,  then  a  layer  of  tomatoes 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  powdered  sugar,  a 
bit  of  butter  in  the  centre  of  each  tomato ;  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs as  before,  then  another  layer  of  tomatoes  seasoned  and 
finished  with  grated  bread.  Tomatoes  take  a  good  deal  of 
butter  if  cooked,  and  require  several  hours  of  slow  simmering. 
This  is  a  very  nice  receipt. 


TRUFFLE.  237 

TONGUES.     See  under  Beef. 

TRUFFLE.  (Tuber  cibarium.)  This  vegetable  has 
never  been  grown  in  this  country,  but  in  France  artificial 
beds  have  been  constructed  with  a  view  to  produce  these 
luxuries.  They  grow  always  several  inches  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  so  that,  in  making  artificial  beds,  great 
care  is- taken  to  mark  the  rows  where  the  truffles  are  plant- 
ed. To  construct  these  beds,  the  best  garden-soil  is  taken, 
trenched  two  feet  deep,  and  the  stones  carefully  removed  ;  to 
this  soil  is  added,  in  proportions  of  one  tenth,  well-powdered 
snail-shells,  two  parts  of  well-pulverized  clayey  soil,  and  one 
part  of  oak  saw-dust,  or,  which  is  better,  vegetable  mould 
formed  from  decayed  oak  or  beech  leaves,  to  seven  parts  of 
good  garden-soil.  A  southern  or  warm  aspect  is  to  be  avoid- 
ed. The  bed  should  be  soaked  a  day  or  two,  then  rows 
made  half  a  foot  in  depth,  and  perfect  healthy  truffles 
planted  six  inches  apart.  The  bed  should  in  dry  weather  be 
kept  moist. 

In  Europe  dogs  are  trained  to  hunt  for  truffles,  discover- 
ing them  by  their  scent.  Epicures  regard  them  as  above  all 
price,  and  near  large  cities  their  cultivation  would  no  doubt 
amply  repay  the  trouble  and  expense  of  preparing  a  bed. 
These  vegetables  grow  in  clusters. 

They  are  used  in  cooking  precisely  as  the  mushroom,  but 
before  cooking  they  are  soaked  in  warm  water  for  three  or 
four  hours ;  then  they  require  hard  brushing  with  a  hair- 
brush kept  for  such  purposes,  to  have  all  the  earth  removed 
from  them  ;  if  peeled,  they  do  not  look  so  handsomely,  but 
taste  better.  They  are  frequently  gently  simmered  with  a 
nice  seasoning  of  sweet  herbs,  spices,  a  little  rich  broth,  and 
two  or  three  glasses  of  sherry,  and  when  tender,  baked,  after 
being  taken  from  the  stewpan,  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven,  then  placed  in  a  dish  with  mashed  potatoes  for 


238  VEAL. 

a  border,  and  the  gravy  they  were  simmered  in,  reduced  (by 
boiling,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot  mixed  smoothly  in 
a  cup  with  a  spoonful  of  water  like  mustard)  to  a  jelly, 
is  poured  over  them  hot,  just  before  they  are  sent  to  the 
table. 

TURNIPS.  Among  the  sorts  used  for  the  table,  the 
Long  Yellow  French  is  a  favorite.  In  boiling  them,  pare  off 
the  rind,  and  equalize  their  size  by  cutting  the  larger  ones ;  put 
them  into  a  pot  filled  with  water.  They  should  be  carefully 
drained,  and  can  be  served  whole,  or  mashed  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  passed  through  a  colander.  When  mashed,  re- 
turn them  to  the  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  little  salt, 
cayenne,  and,  if  convenient,  a  spoonful  or  two  of  cream  ;  beat 
the  whole  together,  and  put  the  turnip  into  a  dish,  marking 
the  surface  in  diamonds. 

Some  boiled  dishes,  such  as  leg  of  mutton  or  lamb,  are 
sometimes  served  over  a  puree  of  turnip  ;  that  is,  turnip 
mashed  and  nicely  seasoned  with  fresh  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper. 

VEAL.  The  desirable  features  for  this  meat  are  fatness 
and  whiteness,  which  when  conspicuous  show  that  the  calf 
was  well  fed  on  rich  milk,  and  judiciously  bled.  Veal 
should  be  fresh ;  never  even  in  winter  should  it  be  more  than 
three  or  four  days  old.  The  meat  of  the  bull-calf  is  closer  in 
grain,  and  more  red  in  color,  than  the  cow-calf.  To  retard 
change,  remove  the  pipe  that  runs  through  the  chine  of  a 
loin  of  veal. 

In  the  fore-quarter  are  the  neck,  shoulder,  and  breast ;  in 
the  hind-quarter,  the  knuckle,  leg,  fillet,  and  loin. 

Veal  requires  to  be  cooked  a  good  deal,  and  to  be  served 
with  piquant  sauces. 

The  leg  with  the  fillet  attached  to  it,  the  loin,  the  breast, 


VEAL.  239 

and  the  shoulder,  are  generally  roasted.  The  leg  and  breast 
are  stuffed  and  roasted.  The  breast  is  also  frequently 
roasted,  with  bits  of  thin  slices  of  sweet  salt-pork  skewered 
to  it. 

Braising  is  a  nice  process  for  many  pieces  of  veal.  Brais- 
ing is  merely  stewing  slowly  in  a  little  broth  or  water,  not 
enough  to  cover  the  meat,  adding  high  seasonings,  and  keep- 
ing the  stewpan  closely  covered.  Skewers  may  be  laid  in 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  to  prevent  the  meat  from  stick- 
ing. 

FORCEMEAT  FOR  A  FILLET. 

After  the  knuckle  is  sawed  off)  and  the  bone  taken  out  of 
the  centre  of  the  fillet,  fill  the  space  left  with  the  following 
stuffing:  Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork  very  fine,  mix 
with  it  the  same  quantity  of  grated  bread-crumbs,  one  quar- 
ter of  a  nutmeg,  two  blades  of  pounded  mace,  one  teaspoonful 
of  sweet-marjoram,  the  same  of  summer-savory,  a  little  white 
pepper,  and  bind  the  whole  together  with  three  eggs. 

Just  before  the  fillet  is  sent  to  the  table,  put  into  half  a  gill 
of  boiling-hot  water  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce,  and  rjour  it  over  the  meat. 
You  may  fry  some  of  the  stuffing  in  small  balls,  and  garnish 
the  dish  alternately  with  lemon  sliced,  and  the  balls  nicely 
browned  in  butter. 

A  large  fillet,  weighing  fourteen  or  fifteen  pounds,  will 
take  three  hours  roasting,  a  smaller  one,  two.  Baste  it  with 
butter,  and  have  a  pint  of  water  in  the  dripping-pan  for  the 
gravy,  which  thicken  with  a  little  flour  dredged  in  lightly, 
and  add  a  gill  of  wine  and  Harvey's  sauce  mixed  together. 
Serve  the  made  gravy  in  a  boat. 

CALF'S  HEAD  AND  FEET. 
Wash  them   well  in  lukewarm  water,  sprinkle  pounded 


240  VEAL. 

rosin  over  them,  and  put  them  in  boiling  water,  and  draw 
them  quickly  out.  The  rosin  adheres  to  the  hair,  which  is 
thus  readily  scraped  off.  Soak  them  in  cold  water  to  give 
firmness  and  whiteness. 

Calf  s  head  may  be  boiled  plain,  in  just  water  enough  to 
cover  it,  after  taking  out  the  eyes,  and  sawing  the  bone  down 
through  the  middle  of  the  head,  or  it  may  be  stewed  with 
savory  lierbs  and  spice,  or  used  for  mock-turtle.  (See  Sovps.) 

The  feet  are  nice  fricasseed,  boiling  them  first  till  the 
large  bones  can  be  pulled  out,  then  flavoring  the  water  they 
were  boiled  in  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  gill  of  wine,  a 
large  piece  of  butter  with  three  spoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed 
into  it ;  let  it  stew  slowly  for  about  twenty  minutes,  then  add 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  cupful  of  cream  that  has  been 
previously  boiled  with  a  little  salt.  Shake  the  stewpan,  but 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  putting  the  egg  and  cream  in  just  be- 
fore it  goes  to  the  table. 

CALF'S-FOOT  JELLY. 

To  four  large,  well-cleaned  legs  put  four  quarts  of  water ; 
let  it  simmer  slowly  till  reduced  to  two  quarts ;  when  the  meat 
is  tender  and  leaves  the  bones,  take  off  the  kettle,  and  strain 
the  whole  through  a  colander.  Let  the  jelly  cool  in  the 
same  room  gradually ;  when  cold  remove  with  a  silver  spoon 
all  the  top-fat ;  put  the  jelly  into  your  preserving-kettle,  leav- 
ing the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Put  to  the  jelly 
in  the  kettle  the  beaten  whites  and  shells  of  six  eggs,  the 
strained  juice  of  three  large  lemons,  the  thinly  pared  rind 
of  one  of  the  lemons,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  the  best  loaf- 
sugar,  crushed  with  a  rolling-pin,  one  pint  of  white  wine,  a 
large  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon.  Allow  it 
to  melt  gradually,  and  do  not  stir  it  after  it  has  melted ;  as  the 
scum  accumulates  on  one  side,  take  it  off.  Have  ready  two 
straining-bags  made  of  cotton  or  linen,  sewed  on  small  wood- 


WATCHES.  241 

en  hoops ;  into  one  bag  put  a  large  teaspoonful  of  brown 
sugar  if  you  wish  a  deep  color  to  the  jelly,  which  is  to  be 
poured  upon  it.  Do  not  squeeze  the  bags,  it  will  make  the 
jelly  muddy.  "When  the  jelly  is  in,  cover  the  aperture  of 
the  bags.  Should  it  not  run  clear,  return  it  to  the  bag. 
When  the  jelly  has  passed  through  the  bags,  let  it  remain  in 
the  same  room  till  it  becomes  solid.  "When  cool,  fill  up 
glasses  with  a  spoonful  from  one  dish,  and  from  the  other  al- 
ternately, or,  if  you  choose,  keep  them  in  separate  glasses. 
Calf  s-foot  jelly  looks  best  broken  up  in  glasses. 

A  light-colored  jelly  is  made  from  the  feet  of  hogs,  and 
the  exquisite  amber-colored  jelly  often  seen  at  the  shops  is 
prepared  from  the  feet  of  sheep. 

Where  these  jellies  are  designed  for  moulds,  several  bits 

of  isinglass  are  put  in  to  boil  with  the  feet. 

* 

WATCHES.  Women's  watches  are  so  proverbially  out 
of  order,  that  nautical  men  have  framed  a  proverb  which 
says,  "  A  ship,  like  a  lady's  watch,  is  always  out  of  repair." 

We  have  selected  the  following  rules  of  Edward  Geafton's 
as  useful  for  those  who  carry  watches. 

Wind  your  watch  as  nearly  as  possible  at  the  same  time 
every  day. 

Be  careful  that  your  key  is  in  a  good  condition,  as  there 
is  much  danger  of  injuring  the  machine  when  the  key  is 
worn  or  cracked;  there  are  more  mainsprings  and  chains 
broken  through  a  jerk  in  winding  than  from  any  other  cause, 
which  injury  sooner  or  later  will  be  the  result  if  the  key  is 
in  bad  order. 

As  all  metals  contract  by  cold  and  expand  by  heat,  it 
must  be  manifest  that  to  keep  the  watch  as  constantly  as 
possible  at  one  temperature  is  a  necessary  piece  of  atten- 
tion. 

Keep  the  watch  as  nearly  as  possible  in  one  position,  — 
21 


242  WINE. 

that  is,  if  it  hangs  by  day,  let  it  hang  by  night  against  some- 
thing that  is  soft. 

The  hands  of  a  pocket  chronometer  or  duplex  watch  should 
never  be  set  backwards ;  in  other  watches  this  is  a  matter  of 
no  consequence. 

The  glass  should  never  be  opened  in  watches  that  set  and 
regulate  at  the  back. 

One  or  two  directions  it  is  of  vital  importance  that  you 
bear  in  mind. 

On  regulating  a  watch,  should  it  be  going  fast,  move  the 
regulator  a  trifle  towards  the  slow,  and  if  going  slow,  do  the 
reverse  ;  you  cannot  move  the  regulator  too  gently  or  slight- 
ly at  a  time,  and  the  only  inconvenience  that  can  arise  is, 
that  you  may  have  to  perform  the  duty  more  than  once.  On 
the  contrary,  if  you  move  the  regulator  too  much  at  a  time, 
you  will  be  as  far,  if  not  farther  than  ever,  from  attaining 
your  object ;  so  that  you  may  repeat  the  movements  until 
quite  tired  and  disappointed,  stoutly  blaming  the  watch- 
maker while  the  fault  is  entirely  your  own. 

Again,  you  cannot  be  too  careful  in  respect  of  the  nature 
of  the  watch-pocket ;  see  that  it  be  made  of  some  material 
that  is  soft  and  pliant,  such  as  wash-leather,  which  is  the  best, 
and  also  that  there  be  no  flue  or  nap  that  may  be  torn  off 
when  taking  the  watch  out  of  the  pocket. 

Cleanliness,  too,  is  as  needful  here  as  in  the  case  of  the 
key  before  winding ;  for  if  there  be  dust  or  dirt  in  either  in- 
stance, it  will,  you  may  rely  upon  it,  work  its  way  into  the 
watch  as  well  as  wear  away  the  engine  turning  of  the  case. 

WINE.  (  Vinum.)  Beside  the  juice  of  the  vine,  we  find 
many  fruits  and  plants  have  always  been  subjected  to  the 
processes  of  fermentation  as  far  back  as  the  memory  of  man 
runneth,  in  order  to  produce  the  liquor  called  wine.  As 
processes  are  discovered  for  preserving  fruit  and  vegetables 


WINE.  243 

in  their  native  spirit  without  loss  of  bulk  or  flavor,  as  healthy 
mental  excitements  become  generally  diffused,  and  motives 
for  self-control  increase  in  a  secure  ratio,  we  shall,  we  confi- 
dently hope,  find  this  instinct  of  man  dying  out.  Taking 
things  as  they  now  are,  we  shall  make  a  few  general  remarks 
upon  wines. 

It  is  only  by  a  moderate  use  of  wine  that  persons  can  ever 
become  good  tasters.  A  wine-merchant  in  extensive  busi- 
ness once  remarked  to  the  author  that  he  never  swallowed 
his  wines  when  judging  of  their  relative  merits,  knowing  that 
if  he  did  he  should  soon  lose  his  nicety  of  taste.  The  osten- 
tation which  induces  people  to  produce  several  varieties  of 
wine  at  one  dinner  merits,  therefore,  censure  for  more  rea- 
sons than  one ;  after  one  or  two  glasses,  the  nerves  of  the 
stomach  are  over-stimulated. 

Port-wine,  on  account  of  the  imperfectly  combined  alcohol 
always  present  in  it,  is  more  injurious  to  stomach  and  un- 
derstanding than  Sherry,  even  when  this  is  of  like  strength 
with  the  Port.  Claret  and  Rhenish  are  the  most  innocent. 
Champagne  produces  but  a  temporary  excitement,  followed 
by  no  after  consequences  of  serious  derangement,  unlike  in 
these  respects  the  wines  of  Oporto,  which,  abounding  in  as- 
tringent qualities  and  uncombined  brandy,  are  pernicious  in 
their  effects  as  a  daily  drink,  even  when  accompanied  with 
great  exercise.  The  Spanish  wines,  which  include  the  Sher- 
ries, are  strong,  heady  wines,*which  should  be  diluted  with 
water,  excepting  when  ordered  as  medicine.  Madeira  dilut- 
ed is  said  to  be  a  good  wine  for  the  dyspeptic,  provided  there 
is  no  disposition  to  hypochondriasis  or  melancholy.  The 
Bordeaux  wines,  the  best  light  wines  of  the  Rhine  and  the 
Moselle,  are,  for  daily  use,  the  least  injurious  of  all  wines ; 
they  are  said  to  have  the  little  alcohol  they  contain  wholly 
combined.  They  contain  tartaric  acid,  and  thus  tend  to  di- 
minish obesity.  Sweet  wines  disorder  the  stomach,  and  their 


244  WINE. 

free  use  induces  intoxication  and  subsequent  suffering  as  great 
as  that  brought  on  by  stronger  wines. 

Wine  kept  in  casks  should  be  closely  stopped,  set  in  a 
place  where  the  temperature  will  be  equal,  and  where  it  will 
not  be  subjected  to  agitation,  which  induces  precipitated  sub- 
stances to  mix  again  with  the  wine. 

To  prevent  wine,  on  putting  it  into  a  new  cask,  from  com- 
bining with  the  properties  of  the  wood,  and  acquiring  a  taste 
of  the  cask,  the  inside  of  the  cask  or  hogshead  should  be 
charred. 

While  old  Rhenish  wines  kept  in  the  barrel  are  said  to 
lose  one  half  of  their  original  alcohol,  wines  put  in  bottles 
not  corked,  but  tied  over  with  bladder,  increase  in  strength, 
that  membrane  giving  passage  to  water,  but  not  to  spirit. 
Wines,  though  they  part  with  their  strength,  improve  in  other 
qualities  by  being  kept  in  casks. 

Travellers  complain  loudly  of  the  adulteration  of  wine  in 
Italy,  and  find  it  possible  to  obtain  good  wine  only  from  the 
proprietors.  Red  wine  is  there  often  adulterated  with  sul- 
phate of  zinc,  and  the  white  with  the  acetate  of  lead,  both 
virulent  poisons,  often  combined  in  these  wines  in  such  quan- 
tities as  to  induce  violent  deaths. 

The  processes  for  wine-making,  with  slight  modifications, 
are  the  same,  whatever  fruit  or  plant  is  employed.  In  the 
best  wine  countries,  the  grape-vine  is  grown  only  three  or 
four  feet  high,  and  the  bunches  nearest  the  soil,  provided 
they  do  not  touch,  are  always  considered  the  richest. 

The  strength  of  wines  of  the  same  country  and  grape 
vary.  Grapes  grown  in  a  light,  dry  soil,  with  a  southern  ex- 
posure, yield  wine  highly  charged  with  alcohol,  while  grapes 
of  the  same  species,  cultivated  in  a  strong,  damp  soil,  with  a 
different  aspect,  give  a  wine  weak  in  alcohol.  Though  the 
strength  of  wine  is  regulated  by  alcohol,  its  quality  and  its 
price  are  decided  by  its  odor  and  taste ;  alcohol  furnishes 


WORMS,   SLUGS,   ETC.  245 

body  and  strength,  but  mellowness  and  perfume  are  charac- 
teristics mostly  sought  for  in  dinner  wines.  (See  Chaptal 
and  Johnson's  Encyclopaedia.) 

Among  home-made  wines,  Gooseberry  wine  is  thought 
most  to  resemble  Champagne. 

CHAMPAGNE  WINE  OP  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Gather  on  a  dry  day  one  bushel  of  the  best  cultivated 
gooseberries,  just  before  they  turn  to  ripen.  Bruise  them 
very  thoroughly  ;  then  pour  upon  them  three  gallons  of 
scalding  water,  and  put  them  into  an  open  headed  cask  that 
has  been  previously  charred.  Cover  the  cask  with  a  blanket ; 
stir  them  daily  two  or  three  times  for  four  days  ;  press  them, 
and  to  every  gallon  of  the  juice  put  three  pounds  of  loaf  or 
good  white  Havana  sugar  powdered ;  let  it  dissolve.  After 
it  has  fermented  for  twelve  or  fourteen  days,  being  filled 
daily  so  that  the  impurities  may  run  over,  put  the  bung  on 
lightly,  gradually  making  it  firmer,  till  at  the  third  day  it  is 
driven  in  perfectly  air-tight.  Let  it  stand  in  the  same  tem- 
perature without  being  stirred  till  December,  when,  on  a 
clear,  dry  day,  it  should  be  racked  off,  and  have  one  eighth  of 
the  best  brandy  added  to  it.  It  may  now  be  again  left  till 
June,  when,  if  not  found  bright  and  clear,  it  may  be  refined 
by  the  beaten  whites  of  six  eggs.  Bottle  it  in  fresh  bottles 
with  new  corks,  and  after  corking  them  dip  the  neck  of  the 
bottle  in  bottle-cement. 

WORMS,  SLUGS,  &c.  These  frequently  destroy  the 
appearance  of  garden  walks,  and  some  of  the  slug  and  snail 
kind  infest  plants.  To  destroy  them,  water  the  soil  with 
salt  and  water,  putting  not  more  than  two  pounds  of  salt  to 
four  gallons  of  water.  Slices  of  turnips  scattered  over  beds 
of  plants  will  gather  slugs  and  snails,  which  thus,  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  may  be  removed  and  destroyed. 


246  WORMS,    SLUGS,   ETC. 

Rats  and  mice,  it  is  said,  may  be  driven  from  fields  and 
barns  by  the  presence  of  the  common  mullein  plant,  and  also 
of  garlic  bulbs,  if  laid  round  in  small  stacks,  while  the  oil  of 
rhodium  and  oil  of  anise-seed,  if  rubbed  on  meat,  will  attract 
rats  unfailingly  to  a  trap. 

Tansy  leaves,  as  also  elder  and  walnut  leaves,  either  in 
their  actual  state  or  as  a  decoction,  will  keep  flies  from 
animals  and  meat. 


THE    END.