Horseback riding : a practical guide for beginners, containing brief and helpful hints on how to ride a horse, riding equipment and the acquirement of skill and good form in riding

HORSEBACK RIDING

DOROTHY L. BURKETT

JOHNA.SEAVERNS

3 9090 014 558 585

Horseback Riding

WeMer Famfly Dbrary of Velennary Medtcme

Oimmiing» School of Veterinary Medicine srt

Tufts University

200 Westboro Road

Morth6raflon.MA 01536

Horseback Riding

A Practical Guide
for Beginners

Containing brief and helpful hints on how to

ride a horse, riding equipment and

the acquirement of skill and

good form in riding

By

DOROTHY LOUISE BURKETT

New York

Orange Judd Publishing Co.

London: Kegan Pavil, French, Trubncr & Co., Limited
1922

Copyright, 1922, by
Orange Judd Publishing- Co.

Printed in the United States

TO

MY FATHER

Whose sympathy and approval inspired and
encouraged its preparation, this
little volume is affection-
ately dedicated by
the author.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER PACF,

Foreword 1

I Horse and Rider 6

II Approaching a Horse .... 9

III The Start 13

IV Putting on the Bridle 18

V Saddling the Horse 22

VI The Bit and Reins 27

VII The Stirrup Strap 30

VIII Spurs 34

IX The Whip or Crop 36

X Mounting 38

XI The Hands 42

XII The Legs 47

XIII The Feet 51

XIV Turning 53

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

XV Backing 56

XVI The Halt 59

XVII The Walk 62

XVIII The Trot .^,. 66

XIX Gallop and Canter 70

XX Other Riding Gaits 74

XXI Dismounting 76

XXII Bad Manners 80

XXIII The Seat 84

FOREWORD

Friends and riding pupils have
frequently asked me where the
fundamental principles of horse-
back riding might be obtained
in brief form and written in
simple language.

Many books, of course, have
been w^ritten on the subject of
equestrianism but not primarily
from the viewpoint of very
young riders and beginners.
This fact has led to a belief that
this book is needed and v/ill be
useful to all who are interested
in horseback riding as a graceful,
1

HORSEBACK RIDING

enjoyable and valuable form of
exercise and recreation.

What has been written is pri-
marily for beginners, yet it is be-
lieved that others vv^ho are lovers
of horses and of the art of riding
will find many things of value in
the rules and exercises that are
suggested.

Riding is an art based simply
upon things that are learned by
doing; if wrongly done, riding
is ungraceful and tiresome, but
done correctly, joy to the rider
IS as lasting as life itself.

It is my belief that the rules de-
veloped in this book are essential
principles that one must follow^
in order to become a good rider.
One may not know these prin-
2

FOREWORD

ciples, for the good rider acquires
them unconsciously. An accom-
pHshed rider is such because he
already has been doing the things
that have been suggested in these
pages. What follows, therefore,
is nothing less or nothing more
than the doing of what naturally
makes horseback riding both a
graceful and a delightful exer-
cise.

From childhood I have been
privileged to ride a horse. When
I was a small girl, my father
vsrould put me on a horse — a safe
one, of course, — and teach me the
first things to do. As I grew older
these riding experiences were
broadened by riding in a girl's
3

HORSEBACK RIDING

camp and in the parks of the city
in which I lived.

During these formative days I
was fortunate also in having in-
struction under a celebrated
teacher of equestrianism, a Span-
ish gentleman of culture, whose
greatest satisfaction came from
helping those who appreciated
his instruction and recognized
the fine points in the art of riding
of which he was such an enthusi-
astic exponent.

Still later, I was privileged to
be an instructor of horseback rid-
ing at Camp Barnard, a girls'
summer camp where riding is
accorded an important place in
the camp routine work and train-
ing. In the position of teacher I
4

FOREWORD

have tested out what has here
been put in print. If these pages
make the way a little plainer to
those who earnestly w^ant to
learn how to ride a horse, my
purpose will have been fully
accomplished.

DOROTHY L. BURKETT.
New York, N. Y.

I

HORSE AND RIDER

Nothing about riding is so im-
portant as making up your mind
to control your horse. A horse
knows whether its rider is afraid
of him or not. TTiis fear is con-
veyed to the horse by nervous use
of the reins, by stiffness of seat,
by the way the feet are moved in
the stirrups, by speech and by
other acts that actually disturb or
frighten the animal.

When a rider gets on his horse
he must be sure that he intends
to manage his horse and not let
6

HORSE AND RIDER

the horse manage him. If you
lack this confidence, select an-
other horse that you positively
know you can control. In a sur-
prisingly short time the rider will
acquire ease and confidence and
both w^ill be conveyed to the
horse. After this lesson is
learned, riding will take a nat-
ural course and will be done with
safety.

In riding there are two essen-
tials that must never be forgot-
ten: (1) to secure and keep a
firm seat; and (2) to use a '*light
hand." Without a combination
of the two no one can become a
good horseman.

Almost equally important is
the know^ledge of the proper ac-
7

HORSEBACK RIDING

tion in emergencies. If a horse
runs away, do not exhaust your-
self by vain pulling, but guide
him out of danger, and let him
run until he is tired.

If a horse rears, loosen the reins
and lean forward.

In case of kicking, keep his
head up as much as possible and
sit firm in the saddle.

If he stumbles, quickly draw in
the reins to help him recover.

II

APPROACHING A HORSE

A good rule never to be for-
gotten is always to approach a
horse from the front. Beginners
are not the only persons who
often foolishly w^alk up to a horse
from behind. Riders of long ex-
perience frequently commit this
fault; they become careless at
times and make the approach
from w^herever they happen to
be. Some of them remember
their f orgetf ulness with regret.

The experienced horseman
knows that horses of tempera-
9

HORSEBACK RIDING

ment and mettle are easily sur-
prised. Even an old trusty horse
is apt to strike out a leg in de-
fense, when he fancies some-
thing is happening behind him.
His natural weapon is his foot
and he uses it with a kick.

When you approach a horse
from the front you go up to him
w^ith outstretched hand and a
friendly w^ord. There is no sur-
prise; the horse is put at ease and
you feel on safer ground w^ith the
animal. This rule applies for all
occasions — w^hen the horse is in
the open, whether equipped for
riding, or is running loose in pad-
dock or box stall.

Where the horse stands in his
stall, tied with halter, the ap-
10

APPROACHING A HORSE

proach naturally must be made
in a different manner. You come
to the stall and stand at the rear
of the animal. By speaking a few
words, calling the animal by
name, all surprise is cleared
away and the horse, recognizing
the voice, realizes a friend, not a
foe, is near him.

The horse is told to stand over
as the approach is made, and if
he is accustomed to it, your hand
may be laid on the hip or croup,
and a slight pressure given as a
signal for the horse to step over
to the other side of the stall. This
is to make room for you to enter
the stall. The horse will move to
the other side if properly trained,
and if not, he should be trained to
11

HORSEBACK RIDING

do this. As you pass up toward
the head of the stall, a gentle pat
or two is in order.

You now loosen the halter
strap or remove the halter alto-
gether and put on the bridle. The
saddle may be placed on the
horse and the girths attached
while the horse stands in the stall
or the act of saddling may be
completed elsewhere. The horse
then is backed out and led to any
place convenient for mounting,
or he is disposed of for the mo-
ment as best serves the conveni-
ence of the person bringing him
out.

12

Ill

THE START

In learning to ride much de-
pends on making the right kind
of start. If there is fear of a horse,
overcome this fear. Next get
astride of the horse, even though
riding is not to be done at the first
trial. Learn how it feels to be
on a horse.

Choose for the first lessons a
horse that is quiet, and for the
first lessons do not be ashamed
of using one that is really aged.
A restive and excitable horse of-
ten lessens, instead of improves,
13

HORSEBACK RIDING

a beginner's confidence. For this
reason a frantic mount should
not be chosen for the first rides.

One may ride bareback for the
first lesson or tw^o; or if pre-
ferred, a saddle may be used with
the stirrups crossed. This helps
in two ways: it gets rid of the ten-
dency to support the weight on
the stirrups instead of the saddle,
a fault that many beginners eas-
ily fall into; it trains the rider to
grip with knees and thighs and
so hold on, a lesson that should
be learned so thoroughly that it
w^ill never be forgotten.

Avoid placing only the toe of

the foot in the stirrup. Many do

this, thinking it aids in rising to

the trot. The fact is, the lower

14

THE START

half of the leg shoud be held
relatively stationary even in the
trot. What rise there is should
come from the knees up.

A better support for the feet is
secured by putting the ball of the
foot quite well forward in the
centre of the stirrup. The Eng-
lish rule is to push the feet well
'*home," even through to the in-
step. This form is permissible
for fast riding and ^vhen riding
to the hunt, but for park riding
it is not generally popular in this
country.

It is not a disadvantage to use
different horses, especially after
a bit of progress has been made
in riding. Doing this tends to
strengthen one's confidence; it is,
15

HORSEBACK RIDING

therefore, worth while not to
ride the same horse time after
time.

After a few lessons the novelty
of riding will be over, confidence
w^ill come and each ride w^ill im-
prove in pleasure and enjoy-
ment. When once one gains that
confidence, he vvrill hardly be
able to wait until the next ride.
A friend of mine on beginning to
ride w^as at first afraid of a horse
but one day, after I had talked to
her on the subject, she sum-
moned up enough courage to try
again. Several months later I
learned she wras riding three
times a week ! She could hardly
wait till her appointed hour and
after a few w^eeks she rode every
16

THE START

single day when the weather per-
mitted.

"Will I fall off ?" How many
beginners have this as a more or
less continuous fear! What if
you do fall off! As one rides
more and more it comes home to
him that there is nothing terrible
in being * 'thrown." Therefore
forget about falling off and learn
to make your horse do what you
w^ant him to do. And I might
add, moreover, that there is an
old saying that no one becomes a
good rider until thrown at least
three times.

17

IV

PUTTING ON THE BRIDLE

A horse accustomed to a bit
and bridle that fit him will offer
less opposition to having a bridle
put on him than would be the
case if an improper bit w^ere in
use, or the bridle w^ere too small,
thus causing discomfort or pain.

The mouth is sensitive and
easily abused. The object of cor-
rect bridling is to preserve, in-
stead of diminish the sensitive-
ness of the mouth, hence the
right sort of bit and bridle is a
18

PUTTING ON THE BRIDLE

pre-requisite for efficient hand-
ling and control of the mount.

When ready to bridle the horse
you are of course standing in
proper position at the horse's
head. The bridle is lifted up-
wards with the left hand in front
of the face of the horse until it is
above his eyes. The right hand
is now^ passed over the horse's
head vvrhere the bridle is grasped
for the purpose of placing it in
position. The left hand is w^ith-
drav/n and low^ered to the region
of his mouth.

The mouth is opened by a
slight pressure with the thumb
and forefinger on the bars under
the lower lip, and the bit guided
into the mouth by the left hand.
19

HORSEBACK RIDING

Some horses readily permit the
bit to be inserted while others are
slow about opening the lips. If
you insert the forefinger in be-
tween the lips and tickle the roof
of the mouth, further resistance
to admission is usually overcome.

The act of bridling is com-
pleted by lifting the bridle with
the right hand up over the head,
placing the poll strap back of the
ears where it readily falls into
place. In adjusting the throat
latch remember that if drawn too
tight it may cause unnecessary
discomfort to the horse.

In case the animal is to be

mounted at once arrange the

reins backward on the neck in

proper position and mount the

20

PUTTING ON THE BRIDLE

horse. If not ready for mounting
it is permissible to hold the ani-
mal, or to lead him by the reins
to whatever spot is the objective
pointo The reins may be with-
drav^n from over the horse's
head and used as a lead strap.

21

V

SADDLING THE HORSE

WEatever kind of saddle is
used, make certain that the stir-
rups and stirrup straps are trust-
worthy. Many a fall has been the
result of an old or imperfect stir-
rup strap. Get a stirrup that fits
the foot. Losing a stirrup from
the slipping out of the foot when
taking a fast gait is annoying and
may cause a mishap.

A saddle cloth under the sad-
dle is desirable for three reasons:
First, if protects the rider's gar-
ments from being soiled by per-
22

SADDLING THE HORSE

spiration of the horse; second, it
absorbs perspiration under the
saddle, thus aiding in keeping the
pads of the saddle soft and flex-
ible; and third, it greatly protects
the horse from injury that would
come with the use of the saddle
next to the horse's back. Some
saddles, how^ever, are so excel-
lently made that a saddle cloth is
unnecessary.

To put on a saddle, stand at
the side of the horse and place
the saddle squarely over the
horse's back just behind the top
of the shoulders. The region on
the top of the shoulders in the
horse is known as the withers.
You may find it less difficult if
the stirrups are crossed over the
23

HORSEBACK RIDING

top of the saddle when the sad-
dle is put on the horse. After the
girths are adjusted the stirrups
are dropped into position.

Arrange the saddle cloth and
saddle so that they present a neat
appearance. Be sure that the
blanket or pad is entirely void of
any roughness or wrinkles before
the saddle is put in place. Neg-
ligence in arranging the pad be-
fore placing the saddle often
causes painful and troublesome
sores on the horse's back.

Now reach dow^n under the
horse for the girths. A double
girth is safer than a single one.
First, attach the girth in front.
As you tighten it the horse may
* 'swell up" for the reason he does
24

SADDDLING THE HORSE

not ^vant a tight corset around
him.

Fasten the front girth as tight
as you can. This done, reach un-
der the horse and get the other
girth and draw it up as you did
with the first one. Return now
to the f orew^ard girth and take up
the slack in it, drawing it tight.
This done, repeat the same oper-
ations w^ith the second or outer
girth.

The last thing is the fastening
of the girth. This is done after
you feel certain that under no cir-
cumstances can the saddle turn
w^hen the rider is seated in it.
With a little practice in adjusting
the girths and making them se-
cure no further difficulty will be

25

HORSEBACK RIDING

experienced in making the sad-
dle secure for any kind of riding.
It goes without saying that
every real horseman knows how
to saddle his horse. A groom or
stable boy may do this ordinarily
but there aWays comes a time
when this knowledge and experi-
ence are greatly appreciated by
the man or w^oman who rides a
horse.

26

VI

THE BIT AND REINS

The double rein and bit are
preferable, especially for horses
of courage, or for animals that
are spirited or unruly. In riding,
both pairs of reins may be held in
the hands, or the rider may "ride
on" the snaffle, as it is called,
governing the horse with the
light bit. In this case the curb
rein hangs slack until required,
thereby saving the horse incon-
venience, possibly pain, and
avoiding the unnecessary hard-
ening of the mouth.
27

HORSEBACK RIDING

Some riders knot the curb rein
and allow it to rest on the neck of
the animal, where if needed, it
can readily be grasped and be
brought into use.

The Y/ay the rider uses the
reins is of the utmost importance.
A rider "whose hands convey to
the horse a sympathetic touch or
manner of holding the bridle
reins, most easily controls the
animal he is riding. A "heavy
fisted" rider gets less out of a
horse than another with "light
hands." The heavy handed in-
dividual has most trouble vsrith
his horse, w^hereas light hands se-
cure just the kind of control that
brings out the best there is in the
horse. A light hand is a firm hand
28

THE BIT AND REINS

but not rough in its use of the
reins.

Much depends upon the bit. A
bit suited to one horse may be
entirely unsuited to another.

It is important that the bit be
adjusted to the mouth of the ani-
mal, both with respect to size and
width. Furthermore, the bit
should be attached to the bridle
in such manner as to '*hang free"
in the mouth and not to draw^ up
at the sides, thus causing discom-
fort to the horse. When the reins
hang loose, the bit should offer
no pressure at any point on the
horse's mouth.

29

VII
THE STIRRUP STRAP

The stirrup strap has much to
do in the maintenance of a good
seat in horseback riding. If too
short, the knee is caused to bend,
an effect in itself that is unsight-
ly. A longer stirrup improves
appearance in the seat and gives
more ease to the mount.

Another objection against the
short stirrup is the insecurity of
it. It is by gripping with knees
and thighs that the rider most
easily keeps his seat in the sad-
dle. This thigh gripping is less-
30

THE STIRRUP STRAP

ened when the knees are forced
up by short stirrups.

The jumping- jack effect so
frequently observed among rid-
ers is the result of unduly short
stirrups. Furthermore, this short
stirrup tends to throw the body
forward, causing the rider to rise
up too high in the trot. Short stir-
rups are often responsible for
lack of grace in the posture.

If the stirrups are set to the
right length the rider will be sit-
ting near to the centre of action
on the horse. Short stirrups force
the rider to sit to the back of the
saddle which is not comfortable
for horse or rider.

Four good rules for determin-
31

HORSEBACK RIDING

ing the proper length of stirrups
are as follows:

First. When the leg is ex-
tended the stirrup should hang
opposite the ankle joint when the
leg is extended downwards.

Second. When the leg is ex-
tended, raise the toes as much as
possible and adjust the stirrup
strap so that the ball of the foot
will rest in the stirrup at the
height to which the toes are
raised.

Third. When the ball of the
foot is in the stirrup, the rider
can, keeping his ankle still bent,
so raise himself as just to clear
the saddle.

Fourth. Before mounting put
the stirrup under the arm-pit and
32

THE STIRRUP STRAP

adjust the stirrup strap to the
same length as is the distance
from the arm-pit to the finger-
tips.

33

VIII
SPURS

Spurs are set over the heels
and are fastened by a strap
around the instep. They give
completion to one's attire even
though they are never brought
into use in controlling the horse.

But spurs really are very use-
ful. There are times wrhen more
than voice or whip is required to
insure obedience of the mount.
Rightly applied, the spur assists
in urging a horse to go forvsrard
when unruly or frightened. Of-
ten the spur brings subjection
34

SPURS

more speedily than any other
method of control.

When the spur is needed, niove
the leg towards the horse's body,
and when the spur point is w^ith-
in a half inch of it, gently strike
it home. Use it cautiously, not
roughly. When the spur strikes,
have the reins well in hand.

Sharp spur points that inflict
unnecessary pain are to be
avoided. Keep in mind that the
spur is to be a reminder of pun-
ishment to the horse if disobedi-
ent. Frequently, in the bleeding
flanks, it tells a tale of the bad
temper or cruel disposition of the
rider.

35

IX
THE WHIP OR CROP

There is a rare art in carrying
a whip on horseback. The man-
ner by which it is held and used
tells a story all its own.

A whip is needed not so much
to punish the horse or animate
him, as to control his gaits and
movements. It may be pressed
against the flank for controlling
and guidance much in the same
w^y as the leg is used for this
purpose.

In starting, one may apply
pressure with the leg and whip
36

THE WHIP OR CROP

thus bringing the horse up to the
bit. In making a turn the pres-
sure of the whip may be appHed
at the rear to keep the haunches
from spreading out.

The whip should be held in the
right hand and may hang at the
side, or point backwards toward
the hip. Avoid a heavy hand in
holding the whip and do not let
it take a position in w^hich it
w^ould touch or strike the horse
w^hen not intended to do so.

37

X

MOUNTING

One should learn to mount from
either side of his horse. Most
riders prefer the left side as a gen-
eral thing, but one's education is
not complete until he is able to
mount from the right side as well
as from the left side.

Before mounting speak a few
words to the horse. You have
walked up to him in a quiet w^ay
and are full of anticipation and
confidence yourself; let the horse
be made to feel the same. A f ew^
gentle pats on the neck and face
38

MOUNTING

will do wonders in putting a
horse at ease, especially if you
speak to him gently as you do
your patting.

You are now standing at his
head; and to mount, you need
only to move backw^ard a step or
tw^o until you are at the shoulder,
the left one. Fix the reins in the
left hand and with the right hand
separate a portion of the mane,
winding it about the left thumb
that is resting on the withers with
the reins properly in place in be-
tw^een the fingers.

The next move is to use the
right hand for aiding the left foot
into the stirrup; this done, the
right hand is carried upwards and
placed on the saddle, the thumb
39

HORSEBACK RIDING

and fingers grasping the pommel
of the saddle. This completes
the position for making the
mount.

Make a springing leap, partly
supporting yourself with the left
leg and foot already in place in
the left stirrup. As the ascent
is made, the right leg is thrown
well over the horse's back with-
out bending the knee, and then
drops downw^ard on the other
side, the body assumes an even
posture, the right hand is released
of its hold, the right foot is placed
in its stirrup, and the reins are
quickly grasped by both hands
or adjusted in the left — and the
act of mounting reaches its com-
pletion.

40

MOUNTING

All this is done in a surprisingly
short time, but while doing it
make sure not to produce any re-
action on the bit. During the per-
iod the rein is held tight enough
to keep the horse standing quiet-
ly.

41

XI
THE HANDS

It is by the hand or hands on the
rein that a horse is more or less
directed, and certainly by the
hands he is kept in control.
Skilled riders for the most part
hold the reins in the left hand.
Beginners should use both hands,
holding the reins on either side
with the hand on that side.

Many experienced riders like
to ride in this manner and it is
perfectly correct for them so to
do. It depends somewhat on the
individual and somewhat on the
42

THE HANDS

horse. When a perfectly docile
animal is ridden and which is
completely submissive to the
rider's mastery, the left hand will
quite w^ell suffice. But w^here
great care is necessary, either be-
cause of the horse or of the roads,
holding the reins in the two hands
is safest.

Youthful riders, because of
their small hands, should always
take the reins in the tw^o hands;
and w^omen riders usually find
this manner of holding the reins
the most satisfactory. Experi-
enced riders follow^ both meth-
ods, changing from one to the
other as the mood comes on them.

The hands are employed to
keep the horse in subjection, and
43

HORSEBACK RIDING

in turning. In turning, if the
horse is not well trained, the rein
on the side to which the horse is
to go w^ill be gently pulled, thus
indicating the direction. A horse
well educated in riding methods
may be turned by pressing the
rein on either side of the neck.
He is then said to be "bridle
w^ise."

The reins are held in the left
hand thus: thumb up and point-
ing to the horse's ears; reins be-
tween the fingers, one rein for
each if four reins are used; the
little finger directly above the
pommel of the saddle, near to it
but not more than a few inches
above it.

The hands are held a few^
44

THE HANDS

inches to the front of the rider,
giving plenty of room for pulling
in the reins without changing the
grasp on them. All reins should
be clasped between the thumb
and first finger. Learn to press
the thumb on the reins as it is the
controller ; back of it lies all the
power and strength in holding
the reins. If the thumb does not
grasp the reins firmly, the rider is
likely to lose his reins and then
he comes up against danger.

This manner of holding the
reins enables the rider to carry
the elbow close to his side, w^hich
is the graceful w^ay to carry it.
Very frequently one observes
riders w^ith the back of the hand
turned up, the knuckles up w^ards;
45

HORSEBACK RIDING

instead of greater ease, and more
power coming to the hands, the
reverse is true. Spreading elbows
are, therefore, to be avoided.

As one rides more and more he
uses his hands w^ith greater ease
and therefore w^ith more free-
dom. The hands acquire a dex-
terity, or '*hghtness," w^hich
accompHshment is really a firm-
ness of the hands that enables the
skillful rider to direct his mount
w^ith such sensitive touch as to
give absolute control of every
movement.

46

XII
THE LEGS

If the stirrup straps are of
proper length and the rider clear-
ly understands what it means to
depend upon the thighs and
knees for safety in the seat, the
legs will assume their proper po-
sition and greatly help in keeping
the seat and maintaining a proper
posture of the body.

But the legs serve other pur-
poses also. They help to guide
and assist the horse in his move-
ments no less so than the hands.
The hands control the move-
47

HORSEBACK RIDING

ments of the forequarters, the
legs of the hind quarters. Indeed,
the only control of the horse's
hind parts rests in the use of the
rider's legs.

When the rider's legs are
pressed against the horse's sides,
the horse is induced to move f or-
^ward or move his hind feet for-
%Yard. Thus, without wrords, the
horse is given a signal as to what
is wanted.

By placing one leg backwards,
say just behind the saddle girths,
and putting gentle pressure on
the leg, the rider will turn the
horse from the rear around the
front legs from that side. Like
results are obtained for the other
side w^hen the leg on that side is
48

THE LEGS

similarly placed for the opposite
effect.

The legs serve also in turning.
In doing this equal pressure is
given — one leg forward of the
girths and the other to the rear.
The hand on the rein should aid
the legs in bringing about the de-
sired result.

In still another vvray the legs
may be brought into use. The
rider shifts his weight to one side
by partially standing in one stir-
rup, releasing all w^eight on the
other leg. This action w^ill cause
the horse to raise his legs and feet
on the side from w^hich the
weight w^as lifted.

As both horse and rider are
educated to understand the ser-
49

HORSEBACK RIDING

vice and importance of these
simple hints, the pleasure of rid-
ing increases proportionally.

50

XIII
THE FEET

The assistance that the feet
render in riding conies so natur-
ally in connection v/ith the treat-
ment of other topics that there is
left Httle to say here except as to
the proper form by -which the feet
are to be carried in the stirrups.

There are three rules that one
should never forget: First, the
feet must always be carried near-
ly parallel to the horse's body,
with the toe turned out very
little, and the heel pressed dow^n-
ward.

51

HORSEBACK RIDING

Secondly, the ball of the foot
must rest firmly on the stirrup.
The exception to this rule is in
strenuous riding, such as riding to
the hunt, racing, polo, and jump-
ing, in which cases the foot is
allowed to '*go home.'*

Third, the feet must not be
flapped in and out, or backwards
and f orw^ards.

Nothing is so indicative of bad
form as any departure from these
three rules; also, nothing is so ex-
pressive of correct riding educa-
tion and discipline as a constant
observance of them.

52

XIV
TURNING

The hand and leg are both em-
ployed in turning. The hand by-
means of the pull on one rein cen-
ters attention on the direction
while the pressure of the leg in-
fluences a uniform movement
from the hind quarters.

In turning the horse in any
pace, the rider should recollect
that he is not simply to pull the
horse around by the head. The
legs should be held sufficiently
close to the sides of the horse and
when the rider desires to turn, the
53

HORSEBACK RIDING

leg on the side from which it is
desired to turn, should be carried
back of the girths and be pressed
against the horse at the same time
that the hand pulls the rein on the
side to which the direction is to be
taken. This will enable the
horse to turn gracefully and to re-
tain his lightness.

Guided by the legs and hands
simultaneously in turning, the
horse is assured of an equilibrium
which will insure safety to both
horse and rider.

Often a beginner turns his
horse too quickly and in so doing
causes the horse to step on his
ow^n feet. This gives rise to what
is known as "corked feet." A
w^ound of this kind, w^hich often
54

TURNING

is serious, may be entirely avoid-
ed in making a turn by bringing
the horse around in a slow, easy
and graceful movement.

55

XV
BACKING

Many times come when it is
desirable "to back" one's mount.
Too frequently backing is done
awkwardly and ungracefully
w^hen the reverse ought to be the
case. A rider's cleverness and
degree of horsemanship is indi-
cated by the ease and mastery
by which a horse is backed out of
difficulty or into a better position
for a few minutes of waiting.

In backing, make certain that
the horse is not twisted or stand-
ing in a curve. Make him stand
56

BACKING

straight, the croup in line with
the rider's shoulders, the horse
light in hand, and easy in the bit.
Now press gently against the two
sides in such a w^ay as to cause the
horse to lift one of his hind legs,
the light bit being held suffi-
ciently strong to prevent his ad-
vancing.

At once w^hen a hind leg is
raised, pull in on the curb rein
w^hich wrill cause the horse to re-
place the raised leg on the ground
but at the rear of the place w^here
the foot originally had been.
These movements are to be con-
tinued until the desired position is
reached. If the horse turns to
right or left bring him into place
57

HORSEBACK RIDING

by the proper pressure of the leg
and by aid of the Hght bit.

To walk backwards is good
practice for both rider and horse
and after a J^rief experience it
may be done easily and grace-
fully. It is a good test in the edu-
cation of both horse and rider.

58

XVI
THE HALT

Only by practice can one fully
understand the rare acquirement
of bringing his horse to a halt
from a rapid pace. One of the
prettiest accomplishments is to
make a quick halt from a fast pace
as, for example, the gallop. All
skillful riders effect this without
difficulty, for they and their
horses are reasonably well
trained.

The secret of making the halt
from a rapid pace is to give the
command w^hen the hind legs are

59

HORSEBACK RIDING

under the horse. For the walk
or slow trot this rule is not im-
portant, but in rapid paces it is.

The aim in halting is to distrib-
ute the shock to fore and hind
legs. A sudden halt made w^hen
the horse is on the front legs may
lead to a fall. Stopping on the
front legs gives horse and rider
an unnecessary jolt which is dis-
agreeable and dangerous for
both.

A good rule is to have the hind
legs under the body when the
horse stops so that they receive
a part of the shock, and the full
shock is not forced upon the front
legs. The horse is touched
gently w^ith the spurs wrhen the
hind legs are forward, and imme-
60

THE HALT

diately the reins are drawn in.
This method gives a graceful halt
and inconveniences neither horse
nor rider.

Inexperienced riders often
draw the reins with a sudden pull
without communicating the pur-
pose in any manner to the horse.
Unf amiliarity with the right v/ay
of halting has precipitated many
a rider over the horse's head.

A safe rule for beginners is to
bring the horse gradually to a
walk from whatever pace the
horse is making and then by w^ord
or drawing-in of the reins the
rider conveys the signal to come
to a halt.

61

XVII

THE WALK

The walk is the gait that should
first be attempted on starting a
ride, either by beginner or experi-
enced horseman. This insures the
rider's conjfidence in the horse
and allows him time to study the
animal's disposition. If, of course,
the rider is w^ell acquainted w^ith
his mount, this is not necessary,
but in general when one rides a
horse entirely strange to him he
should make that horse walk for
a few minutes, turning him in
different directions, and causing
62

THE WALK

him to stop and then go at will.

When he has his mount under
control to his satisfaction he is
then ready to try other slow
gaits, or the trot and canter.
These latter gaits v^ill be more
enjoyable if the rider feels at
ease on his mount. The beginner,
however, should let the w^alk be
the only gait for the first lesssons
at least.

The w^alk is the simplest of all
gaits. It is only necessary to say
of it that w^hen resorted to as a
resting or breathing time for a
weary horse, it should be per-
formed with animation, the head
being kept in position and the ac-
tion made lively and firm.

But after fast traveling on the

63

HORSEBACK RIDING

road it is at times desirable to al-
low the horse's head to drop and
the whole muscular system of the
horse's body to become relaxed.
He must be ready instantly, how-
ever, to regain his firmness in
case of a fallen step.

The rider can help the horse
even in w^alking. It is advisable
aWays to have a fairly firm grasp
upon the reins and if the horse
should happen to stumble, the
rider can assist in the recovery by
quickly drawing them in.

In changing gaits, usually the
start is made from the w^alk, al-
though a horse ought to respond
to any gait to which the rider
desires to change.

In going from a wralk to a trot,
64

THE WALK

the rider should slacken the reins,
and rise in the saddle; and for the
canter he should give the horse
free rein and lean well forward
in the saddle.

A well-trained horse will
change from one gait to another
directly without going back to
the walk. If, for instance, the
rider is trotting and w^ishes to
canter, he should lean forward
in the saddle and give the horse
full rein. In other w^ords, to
change the gait, the rider simply
assumes the position that he
w^ould have in the new gait and
the horse falls naturally into that
new^ gait.

65

XVIII
THE TROT

Unquestionably, the trot is the
fashionable gait in horseback
riding. It is less easy for the rider
and for the horse than a well
gathered canter and it is for both
an artificial gait. Both horse
and rider need practice before the
gait can be performed gracefully.
It is in the trot that posture so
frequently takes on an unsightly
appearance; the rider should sit
up straight, head held high, chin
in, as if the world belongs to him.

When the horse's right fore-
66

THE TROT

leg goes forward, rise up, press-
ing the stirrup with the ball of the
foot and then come down on the
saddle w^hen the left foreleg goes
forward. By practice this posting
will become very natural and the
rider will wonder why he never
did it before. Once you get it the
trick will never leave you. Al-
ways go w^ith the horse; go up
with him; then dow^n; up-dovvrn,
up-down.

Counting, it runs:

1 - 2, 1 - 2, 1 - 2.

Right foreleg forward, - 1 ; left
foreleg, - 2.

Repeat this to yourself and you
will find it helps greatly.

It is in the trot that you see so
many riders riding as if they w^ere

67

HORSEBACK RIDING

jumping jacks, bounding up in
the seat and coming down again
on the saddle. In rising one
should barely leave the saddle.
The thickness of the hand be-
tween the saddle and the body is
an old rule of experienced horse-
men. To insure this, the length of
the stirrup strap should be cor-
rect as to length. I myself like a
long stirrup as I find I have then
better thigh support.

Properly adjusted, the stirrup
straps make easy posting pos-
sible. There follow^s perfect
rhythm betvsreen horse and rider,
otherwise, lacking this harmon-
ious motion, the rider is jolted up
and down, bumping and pitching,
as each step is taken.
68

THE TROT

I repeat again: make certain
that the stirrup straps are of
proper length — and go with the
horse. Do not work too hard, for
body tenseness greatly dimin-
ishes the pleasure that comes
from riding.

69

XIX

GALLOP AND CANTER

The gallop and canter are en-
tirely different paces. The gallop
is a succession of short leaps,
whereas the canter is a move-
ment of the front and hind legs
successively, yet the transition of
one to the other is so gradual that
it would be difficult exactly to
fix it.

The riding horse is bred to
raise his feet well up in the air.
This is particularly essential with
the canter, w^hich is a slow^ high
bound. In taking this pace the
70

GALLOP AND CANTER

horse is made to gallop and then
to go slow.

Like the trot, the gallop or can-
ter is a popular gait. It is easy on
the horse, and besides it gives the
rider much more exercise than
does the rack. The style of riding
in both gaits is very much the
same.

In both the gallop and canter
the knees and thighs should in all
cases grasp the horse, but not
v^ith so much power as to render
the horse uncomfortable.

In these gaits the motion of the
horse is very much increased
over the walk or trot and hence
proportionally greater is the
necessity for caution to secure a
safe, firm seat.

71

HORSEBACK RIDING

A beginner should not attempt
the canter or gallop until he feels
safe with the trot, and has gained
perfect confidence in his ability
to keep his seat.

It is usually best not to gallop,
or even to use the slower pace of
canter, in a city park. Accidents
constantly occur, the horse be-
coming frightened at the sight
of many people and vehicles; if
the rider is inexperiencd, the
horse is likely to take the bit in
his mouth and run.

If one desires to gallop and can-
ter, he should go on a long, open
road, preferably a dirt road, and
one w^here there is but little traf-
fic. On such roads, wth a little
experience, the rider will enjoy
12

GALLOP AND CANTER

the fast gaits to the utmost. It
is wonderful exercise.

The inexperienced rider should
always canter or gallop up a hili
and w^alk dow^n.

In cantering up^ the rider helps
the horse up; in walking down,
the rider may assist in keeping
the horse from stumHling.

73

XX

OTHER RIDING GAITS

There remain two other gaits
that frequently are seen on the
road or in the parks. These are
the step-and-pace and the rack
or single foot.

In the step-and-pace, the mo-
tion is first a little faster than in
the walk. In it the forelegs of the
horse have the motion of the slow
canter and the hind legs the mo-
tion of the trot. Since this is not
a natural gait it is a difficult one
to teach a horse to keep.

The single foot, often called the
74

OTHER RIDING GAITS

rack, is the result of the horse
planting his feet in the same way
as in the step-and-pace. It is the
same kind of gait, only faster.

In these two gaits the rider sits
well down in the saddle. They
are restful gaits for the rider but
rather tiresome for the horse.

To go from a walk to either of
these paces, the rider sits well
down in the saddle, keeps the
reins taut and urges the horse out
of the w^alk.

75

XXI
DISMOUNTING

One may leave the saddle by
reversing the movements for
mounting. Briefly, this is done
as follows:

Holding the reins and crop in
the left hand, the right is placed
on the pommel of the saddle; the
right foot is now^ withdraw^n
from the stirrup; the right leg,
held reasonably straight, is
throw^n backw^ards and carried
over the horse's croup, with care
exercised so as not to strike the
horse. The circuit of the right
76

DISMOUNTING

leg is continued and when it has
been carried over the region of
the croup it is lowered to the
ground.

As these movements are pro-
gressing, the rider is in the act of
lowering, or already has partly
lowered himself from his seat in
the saddle, so that by the time
the foot touches the ground his
own body has followed, avoiding
any great stretch of the leg or any
unsightly appearance of his per-
son in the descent.

The act of dismounting is com-
pleted by withdrawing the left
foot from its stirrup through the
aid of the right hand. The left
stirrup should not be permitted
to flap against the horse's flank.
77

HORSEBACK RIDING

This is common, but it is not good
form.

Many agile riders pride them-
selves on dismounting in another
manner, thus: Both feet are
taken from the stirrups and both
hands placed at the front of the
saddle. By means of a spring
from the wrists, the saddle and
horse are cleared, the rider land-
ing on his feet near the horse.
One may dismount on either side
as he chooses, but in any case
keep hold on the reins with the
hand that is resting on the
withers.

Another simple method of dis-
mounting is to bring the right leg
over the front of the saddle to the
left side and then jump down.

78

DISMOUNTING

Boys usually find this method
very speedy, and they are apt to
use it at all times. It is permis-
sible for anyone to dismount in
this way as it shows the agility of
the rider.

79

XXII
BAD MANNERS

It is bad manners to cluck at a
horse, to shake the reins with the
hands, or to flap the stirrups in
and out or back and forth, with
the feet in them.

Many terms are used by differ-
ent riders in starting and stop-
ping the horse. The terms one
should use naturally depend up-
on those to which the horse is
most accustomed.

To cluck at a horse involves
many dangers. If several people
are riding together and a person
80

BAD MANNERS

in the rear should cluck to his
horse, the horses in the lead
would hear the clucking and im-
mediately start up in a more
rapid gait. A person in the lead
may be fixing a stirrup, or not
paying particular attention to his
horse, and when his mount sud-
denly begins to trot, canter or
run, if he is not a skilled rider, he
may be throw^n.

Always think of the other per-
son and how he might be harmed
by your unthinking cluck to
your horse.

Of course the ideal w^ay is to
signal by pressure on reins or
with the legs, but this is general-
ly impossible w^here the same
horse is used by many riders and
81

HORSEBACK RIDING

no two riders use the same man-
ner of communication.

The same is true with respect
to gaits. A horse under ordinary
circumstances starts out in a
walk. If the horse does not know
the signal or the word for taking
another gait, naturally he cannot
respond to what the rider wants
done. Touching up with the whip
will increase the pace, but what
pace the horse will take is de-
pendent upon the mood or pre-
vious teaching of the horse.

Do not shake the reins in order
to start up your horse but use the
crop, or touch up with the spurs.
That is what these are made for^
and the sooner one learns to use
them the better.
82

BAD MANNERS

To flap the stirrups is undoubt-
edly one of the most unpardon-
able faults. Keep the leg stiff
from knee downward and avoid
letting it sway to and fro.

83

XXIII
THE SEAT

Every horseback rider is inter-
ested in two things: hovv^ to ride
with safety and how to ride well.
The hints and exercises hereto-
fore suggested have been pre-
sented to accomplish both of
these results. A few additional
words remain yet to be said about
the seat, for the reason that in it
are centered not only security on
the horse but also the appearance
of the rider. The rider's posture
on his horse when in action tell
the story.

84

THE SEAT

It is in the seat, in the rider's
poise, in his posture v/hen sitting
in the saddle on the horse, in the
carriage of his body and in his
manner of riding that personality
and charm are reflected and the
skill and the mastery of the
mount most clearly portrayed.

Don Quixote understood the
meaning of this kind of good rid-
ing. In one of his lectures to San-
cho he said '*the seat on a horse's
back makes some people look
like gentlemen and others like
grooms." These words convey
an unquestioned meaning as to
what one ought to do and how^ to
do it w^hen riding a horse.

When a rider becomes thor-
oughly at home on a horse he will
85

HORSEBACK RIDING

to a large degree ride indepen-
dently of his hold on the reins.
This will come about from right
use of his whole body, not of the
hands and legs only, but also of
the trunk above the waist. Every
rider should so school himself in
training the upper portion of his
body that he can lean far to the
right or the left, lie forward on
the horse's neck or backwards on
his croup, restoring his position
w^ithout pulling on the reins or
interfering with his seat in the
saddle.

Equally important w^hen riding
is keeping the spine straight.
'*Don't slouch" is so obvious as
hardly to be necessary to say.
Were it not a fact that many
86

THE SEAT

riders do slouch, this fault would
not be mentioned. The right
way is to sit straight, with the
head up and the chin in, and
maintain the body with a supple-
ness that suggests grace, ease and
experience. The rider w^ill then
feel at home on his horse bcause
he is at home on him.

At home on the horse! To ride
well! To tell how these two ends
and all they mean may be
attained is the purpose of this
little book. It will best fulfill its
mission by emphasizing at all
times gentle bearing, a graceful
appearance and a genial person-
ality in riding. This noble exer-
cise is truly a fine art and is
87

HORSEBACK RIDING

"worthy of all the patience and
perseverance expended in mas-
tering it.

88

jbrtBrFamRy Ubrary of Vtelennafy Medwne

School of Veterinary Medicine at

Tufts University

200 Westixxo Road

llor^ Grafton MA 01536