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BULLETIN 


OF 


LOS  ANGELES  COUNTY 
HORTICULTURAL  COMMISSION 


THE 


HORTICULTURIST'S 
HAND    BOOK 


Bulletin   No.    1 
1Q13 


LOS  ANGELES  COUNTY 
COMMISSION  OF  HORTICULTURE 

WILLIAM  WOOD,  COMMISSIONER 


THE 

HORTICULTURIST'S 
HAND  BOOK 


EDITED   AND  COMPILED 
By 

B.  R.  JONES 

Deputy  Commissioner  of  Horticulture 


Published  by 

THE  BOARD  OF  SUPERVISORS 

LOS   ANGELES 
1913 


Introduction. 

By  means  of  this  little  book  the  Horticultural  Commissioner  of 
Los  Angeles  County  and  his  staff  send  greeting  to  everyone  in- 
terested in  growing  plants  and  trees  into  whose  hands  the  book 
may  fall,  and  more  especially  the  careful  painstaking  fruit  growers 
who  have  figured  so  largely  in  making  this  and  adjoining  counties 
the  attractive  abiding  places  which  are  drawing  toward  them  the 
appreciative  people  from  all  lands. 

Our  office  is  in  business  for  the  purpose  of  assisting  the  tree 
and  plant  grower  in  every  way  possible,  not  only  to  get  the  best 
results  for  the  present  time,  but  to  keep  his,  and  his  neighbors' 
trees  in  such  condition  that  the  future  results  will  be,  at  least, 
equally  gratifying,  and  if  possible  to  better  the  conditions  year 
by  year. 

In  this  work  we  have  endeavored  to  meet  the  need  for  a  col 
lection   of  useful   information   along  the   line  of  our  work,  which 
can  be  placed  in  our  growers'  hands,  and  which  will,  in  condensed 
form,   give   information   helpful   in   almost   any   problem   likely   to 
come  to  him  in  his  ordinary  experience. 

We  do  not  intend,  in  any  respect,  to  compete  with  the  very 
excellent  literature  issued  from  our  State  Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Station,  but  to  condense  and  combine  the  information,  in 
most  cases  obtained  from  these  bulletins,  for  more  convenient 
reference  in  any  emergency. 

We  are  greatly  indebted  to  this  branch  of  the  College  of  Agri- 
culture, not  only  for  the  able  treatises  on  the  various  insect  and 
plant  matters,  from  which  we  have  obtained  much  of  the  data  for 
this  work,  but  also  for  copies  of  their  illustrations  which  they 
have  so  kindly  provided  for  us;  and  for  assistance  in  the  same 
way,  our  State  Horticultural  Commissioner's  office  is  entitled  to 
our  earnest  expressions  of  appreciation. 

i 


We  know  of  no  publication  similar  to  this  in  the  State  now, 
excepting  one  by  Mr.  O.  E.  Brernner,  long  out  of  print,  and  from 
which  we  have  taken  the  liberty  to  quote  in  several  instances. 

We  would  like  to  say  a  word  here  of  the  work,  of  our  office  in 
general.  We  have  endeavored  to  so  conduct  it  as  to  give  the  best 
possible  service,  first  to  the  fruit  growers  of  the  County,  for  whose 
benefit  the  office  was  created  and  for  whom  it  is  maintained, 
also  to  benefit  the  nurserymen  who  furnish  trees  to  the  growers, 
and  those  who  only  grow  trees  and  plants  for  the  gratification  af- 
forded by  the  sight  of  beautiful  horticultural  growth. 

At  times  we  have  found  it  necessary,  in  our  judgment,  to  insist 
upon  a  course  of  action  not  approved  of  by  all  the  growers,  and 
to  which  they  strenuously  objected,  and  though  the  task  was  not 
at  all  a  pleasant  one,  we  have  endeavored  to  follow  the  best  course 
for  the  good  of  all  concerned,  and  to  treat  all  alike  "without  fear 
or  favor,  believing  that  the  future  will  show  those  who  felt  agrieved 
'that  this  course  was  best.  Past  experience  would  seem  to  prove 
that  this  will  be  so,  as  we  now  encounter  only  a  fraction  of  the 
opposition  which  was  hurled  against  our  work  only  three  or  four 
years  ago.  We  believe  the  work  has  proved  its  own  value  in  most 
cases,  and  people  in  general  are  now  demanding  it  much  more  fre- 
quently than  fighting  it. 

In  the  cities  and  towns  of  our  County,  the  benefits  of  our  work 
are  not  as  apparent  as  among  the  ranches  and  orchards,  but  when 
we  consider  that  much  of  the  nursery  stock  planted  in  the  orchards 
is  sold  and  often  grown,  in  the  towns,  where  it  will  become  infested 
if  the  town  trees  are  dirty,  a  different  light  is  cast  on  this  matter, 
and  we  must  always  remember  that  we  are  protecting  your  neigh- 
bors as  well  as  yourselves,  and  in  our  work  we  are  emphatically 
"our  brother's  keeper." 

In  the  towns  where  our  office  must  do  most  of  the  work  found 
necessary  in  treatment  of  the  trees,  we  have  this  season  arranged 
to  have  it  done  by  tents  and  other  appliances  owned  by  the  County 
and  operated  by  crews  hired  by  the  day  or  hour,  and  the  charge 
made  on  an  itemized  account,  of  time,  chemicals  and  tent  hire  actu- 


ally  employed  in  the  work,  no  profit  being  allowed  to  anyone.  We 
find  this  plan  more  satisfactory  even  if  no  great  saving  is  made, 
as  each  tree  owner  sees  just  what  he  is  paying  for. 

We  earnestly  solicit  the  patient  forbearance  of  our  tree  owners 
for  our  mistakes,  for  we  shall  make  some,  and  their  co-operation 
in  the  work,  attempted  entirely  for  their  benefit,  and  from  which 
we  shall  exclude  in  every  way  possible,  any  suspicion  of  contrib- 
uting to  private  gain  at  the  expense  of  public  good. 

We  are  trying  to  keep  a  very  close  watch  on  all  incoming  trans- 
fers of  trees  and  plants  which  might,  by  infestation  or  disease,  tend 
to  make  worse  the  condition  of  those  of  any  district,  and  owing 
to  the  size  of  the  County  and  diversity  of  plant  troubles  in  differ- 
ent parts,  we  have  deemed  it  best  to  supervise  plant  movement  even 
within  the  County,  and  inspect  the  goods  carefully  in  every  case. 
This  work  faithfully  done,  in  connection  with  the  careful  inspection 
by  the  State  Quarantine  Officers,  of  all  nursery  stock  coming  into 
the  State,  should  give  us  the  best  possible  security  from  the  intro- 
duction of  new  troubles  for  the  grower. 

In  considering  the  best  way  to  arrange  the  things  we  wish  to 
say  in  the  following  pages,  we  have  decided  to  divide  them  into 
three  parts,  viz : 

First :  Treatment  of  the  more  successfully  grown  fruit  and  orna- 
mental trees  and  plants  of  our  County,  and  the  insect  pests  and 
diseases  usually  found  troubling  them. 

Second :     These  pests  and  diseases,  and  how  best  treated. 
Third :     How  to  prepare  the  materials  and  carry  on  the  work 
of  extermination  and  cure. 

Many  things  we  shall  say  are  well  known  to  our  older  country 
residents,  but  the  "new  comer"  and  the  town  dweller  should  also 
be  considered,  and  some  one  will  find  in  each  statement  just  the 
thing  he  wanted  to  know. 


The  Various  Kinds  of  Fruit  and  Nut  Trees 

and  Shrubs,  Their  Insect  Pests 

and   Diseases. 


The  Apple 

The  apple  can  be  grown  almost  anywhere  in  this  County  with 
but  few  exceptions.  The  best  is  grown  in  the  higher  altitudes  where 
there  is  something  of  a  winter  climate,  as  in  the  mountain  districts. 
We  also  find  in  the  level  valleys,  lands  where  the  soil  naturally  is 
moist  enough  to  grow  them  without  irrigation.  There  are  some 
varieties  which  grow  to  perfection  in  these  sections;  Fall  Pippin, 
White  Winter  Pearmain,  White  Bellflower,  Maiden  Blush,  Famous 
or  Snow  Apple,  Banana  Apple,  Missouri  Pippin,  Red  Astrican,  and 
all  of  the  Crab  varieties  grow  well  and  are  very  prolific,  often  so 
much  so  as  to  need  thinning  out. 

We  find  here,  like  everywhere  else,  that  the  apple  has  numerous 
pests:  Codling  Moth,  Woolly  Aphis,  and  near  the  coast,  Mildew. 
These  are  the  most  serious. 

San  Jose  Scale,  the  worst  pest  we  have  had  to  contend  with  in  the 
past,  is  no  longer  a  pest,  being  controlled  effectively  by  parasites.. 
In  some  regions  like  the  district  north  of  the  mountains,  very  few 
insect  pests  of  any  kind  are  known,  and  all  of  the  above  pests  can  be. 
controlled  cheaply  by  modern  methods. 

The  Apricot 

The  Apricot  is  very  easily  grown,  but  fruits  best  on  loose  soils,  and 
at  an  altitude  of  about  200  feet  and  over,  and  nowhere  are  its  crops 
as  certain  as  the  peach.  Owing  to  its  uncertainty,  the  fruit  is  more 
valuable. 

Insect  pests  attacking  the  Apricot  are  :  Black  Scale  ;  Brown  Apri- 
cot Scale ;  Frosted  Scale ;  and  Greedy  Scale. 


—10— 
The  Almond 

The  Almond,  though  thrifty  and  easily  grown,  does  not  produce 
well  south  of  the  Sierra  Madres.  Its  very  early  blooming  time, 
wrhile  making  it  very  attractive  and  ornamental,  causes  exposure 
of  the  setting  fruit  to  the  late  cold  of  spring,  with  disastrous  results. 
It  is,  however,  grown  quite  extensively  in  the  Antelope  Valley  and 
vicinity.  Insects  attacking  it  are:  Deciduous  Red  Spider;  San 
Jose  Scale;  and  Greedy  Scale. 

The  Avocado 

The  Avocado -or  alligator  pear  grows  well  in  localities  fairly  free 
from  frost,  and  at  present  there  is  good  market  for  the  fruit.  The 
demand,  howovcr.  is  limited,  and  even  at  much  reduced  prices  the 
assimilation  of  a  considesable  production  would  be  very  uncertain, 
in  our  opinion. 

Greedy  Scale  and  Hemispherical  Scale  work  on  the  trees,  but 
it  is  quite  free  from  any  other  insect  pests,  although  subject  to 
brown  fungus  rust. 

Berries 

Blackberries  and  Loganberries  thrive  everywhere  in  this  County 
if  kept  free  from  insects.  Raspberries  are  more  particular  as  to 
loiation,  but  many  are  grown. 

Pests  attacking  above  are  :  White  Rose  Scale ;  Black  Scale ;  Red 
Scale;  Flat  Headed  Borers. 

Strawberries  given  proper  culture  thrive  nearly  everywhere  if 
the  soil  is  not  too  heavy. 

Pests  attacking  them  are :  Fullers  Rose  Beetle ;  Strawberry 
Crown  Borer.  They  are  also  subject  to  a  fungus  on  leaves  and 
stems. 

Gooseberries  are  not  as  thrifty  as  farther  north,  but  can  be 
grown  very  satisfactorily  if  given  reasonable  care.  The  only  insect 
pests  attacking  them  is  a  little  Greedy  Scale. 

Currants  bear  only  in  the  high  altitudes  where  there  is  frost 
and  snow. 

Bananas 

These  plants  thrive  well  until  cut  by  frost.  But  very  little  fruit 
is  ripened,  and  that  if  an  inferior  quality. 

Insect  pests  attacking  it  are  Greedy  Scale  and  sometimes  Mealy 
Bug,  but  neither  affect  the  plant  much. 


—11— 

Chestnuts 

The  chestnut  grows  well  in  the  sandy  soil  of  the  lower  country. 
Insect  pests  attacking  it  are  Greedy  and  San  Jose  Scale. 

Figs 

Figs  are  very  easily  grown  everywhere  south  of  the  Sierra 
Madres,  and  the  fruiting  qualities  are  determined  by  the  varieties. 
A  little  Greedy  Scale  and  occasionally  a  few  Mealy  Bugs  are  com- 
monly the  only  insect  pests  attacking  figs,  but  a  foliage  blight, 
probably  of  fungus  origin,  sometimes  affects  them  for  which  Bor- 
deaux Mixture  is  probably  the  best  remedy,  and  that  is  not  very 
effective. 

Grapes 

The  grape  is  probably  the  most  natural  fruit  grown  in  Southern 
California.  It  thrives  well  in  almost  all  kinds  of  soil,  our  annual 
rainfall  being  sufficient  to  mature  good  crops  without  irrigation. 
Of  the  varieties  grown,  wine  grapes  predominate.  All  kinds  of 
table  grapes  do  well  in  this  County  provided  there  is  proper  selec- 
tion of  soil  and  locality  such  as  the  different  kinds  thrive  best  in. 

Phylloxera,  the  most  dreaded  grape  vine  pest,  has  never  made 
its  appearance  in  this  County,  and  every  precaution  is  being  taken 
to  keep  it  out. 

The  obscure  Anaheim  grape  disease,  which  destroyed  most  of 
the  vineyards  in  this  part  of  the  State  twenty-five  years  ago,  seems 
to  have  worn  itself  out,  as  it  never  has  occurred  in  a  virulent  form 
since.  Only  an  occasional  vine  may  be  seen  affected  with  this 
disease.  Great  care  should  be  used  that  no  infestation  of  this 
kind  gets  to  either  new  or  old  vines. 

We  find  that  most  of  the  table  grapes  are  very  susceptible  to 
mildew.  This  is  always  overcome  by  dusting  with  sulphur  at 
blooming  time  and  again  when  the  grapes  are  one-quarter  grown. 
Thorough  dusting  the  first  time  makes  less  work  the  second  time. 
Grapes  on  a  home  place  in  the  city  or  elsewhere,  that  do  not  bear 
well,  can  almost  always  be  made  productive  by  proper  sulphuring.. 

Guavas 

This  peculiar  sub-tropic  fruit,  ripening  at  the  beginning  of  win- 
ter, is  grown  with  surprising  ease  in  localities  free  enough  from 
frost  for  the  fruit  to  mature.  Insect  pests  attacking  this  fruit 


—12— 

are  very  few  and  practically  of  no  importance,  and  I  know  of 
no  disease  affecting  the  trees,  but  in  planting,  a  good  variety  should 
be  selected. 

Grapefruit 
See  Pomelo  and  under  Lemons. 

Lemons 

The  lemon,  with  the  orange,  the  grapefruit  and  the  lime,  and  a 
few  other  unimportant  members  of  the  citrus  family  are  subject 
to  far  more  insect  pests  and  diseases  than  any  other  crop,  trees  or 
plants  of  the  County.  These  trees  all  grow  thriftily  where  reason- 
able moisture  is  supplied,  even  in  quite  frosty  location,  not  how- 
ever in  the  frost  conditions  prevailing  north  of  the  mountains. 
But  profitable  fruit  production  does  not  always  accompany  thrifty 
growth. 

In  considering  a  citrus  grove  investment,  the  following  con- 
ditions must  absolutely  be  present  for  success.  They  are,  a  good 
soil,  plentiful  water  supply  at  reasonable  cost,  and  reasonable 
freedom  from  frost  and  wind.  These  secured,  and  good  trees  free 
from  insects  or  disease  planted,  and  the  grower  is  ready  to  begin 
the  fight,  which  will  last  as  long  as  he  has  trees,  against  insect 
pests  and  disease. 

These  might  be  enumerated  as  follows  :  Black  Scale ;  Red  Scale  ; 
Yellow  Scale;  Oleander  Scale;  Soft  Brown  Scale;  Hemispherical 
Scale;  Purple  Scale;  Citrus  Mealy  Bug;  Longtailed  Mealy  Bug; 
Citrus  Red  Spider;  Silver  Mite;  Citrus  Thrips;  with  several  other 
pests  watching  an  opening  to  invade  our  State  and  causing  us  an 
expense  of  thousands  of  dollars  each  year  to  keep  them  out;  but 
in  spite  of  all  these  drawbacks,  intelligent  and  industrious  growers 
have  realized  surprising  profits  from  lemons,  oranges  and  grape- 
fruit in  the  last  twenty-five  years. 

In  addition  to  the  above  troubles,  tree  diseases  must  be  watched 
for:  Gum  Disease;  Wither-tip;  Die-back;  Lack  of  nourishment 
(Chlorosis)  and  several  other  diseases  of  less  importance. 

The  lemon  crop  is  injured  also  by  the  brown  rot,  and  more  than 
the  other  citrus  fruits  by  the  unexpected  frosts,  yet  Los  Angeles 
County  shipped  last  year  1,200,000  boxes  of  lemons,  2,790,000  boxes 
of  oranges,  18,900  boxes  of  grapefruit,  at  least  three-fourths  of 
them  all,  marketed  at  an  excellent  profit. 


—13— 
Loquats 

This  tree  grows  as  thrifty  as  a  eucalyptus  anywhere  south  of 
the  mountains,  and  will  stand  more  frost  than  an  orange.  The 
fruit  ripening  in  the  winter  is  always  welcome,  though  of  com- 
paratively little  value,  owing  to  the  large  seed.  Some  varieties 
however  bear  larger  fruit  with  thicker  meat,  but  more  acid  flavor. 

The  Greedy  Scale  and  occasionally  the  mealy  bugs  are  the  insect 
pests  that  attack  the  loquat,  and  the  scaling  bark  seems  to  pro- 
tect the  tree  from  much  injury  by  them. 

Mulberry 

The  ordinary  mulberry  is  as  thrifty  and  hardy  as  an  oak  here, 
where  it  can  obtain  sufficient  moisture,  and  for  silk  worm  culture, 
would  probably  be  the  tree  to  grow,  but  the  fruit  is  of  little  value ; 
and  there  are  two  varieties  at  least  of  smaller  habit  of  growth 
which  produce  large  luscious  fruit  somewhat  later  in  the  season, 
which  we  would  recommend  in  most  cases,  though  the  fruit  being 
very  soft  would  be  difficult  to  transport.  They  will  attract  the 
birds  and  thus  protect  fruit  of  more  value,  ripening  at  the  same  time. 

A  little  Greedy,  Black  and  Red  Scale  are  occasionally  found 
attacking  this  tree. 

Nectarine 

The  nectarine  is  very  easily  grown  everywhere  in  this  County, 
and  is  infested  with  about  the  same  pests  as  the  peach,  but  seems 
especially  subject  to  injury  by  the  Black  Peach  Aphis. 

Orange 

See  under  Lemon.  It  is  more  subject  to  black  scale  than  the 
lemon. 

Olive 

The  Olive,  though  grown  with  little  trouble  anywhere  south  of 
the  mountains,  is  profitably  productive  in  only  a  few  locations  hav- 
ing granite  soil,  freedom  from  frosts  and  fog,  and  having  hot 
summers.  It  is  the  general  opinion  throughout  the  County  that 
an  olive  grove  is  a  poor  investment.  Some  varieties,  however,  in 
good  localities  are  yielding  fair  returns,  especially  with  the  im- 
proved prices  of  the  last  few  years.  The  trees  should  never  be 
planted  near  citrus  trees  as  they  are  great  breeders  of  Black  Scale 
and  are  also  attacked  by  Hederae  and  Greedy  Scale. 


—14— 

Pomelo  (Grapefruit) 

The  pomelo,  though  a  thrifty  grower  and  free  bearer,  not  more 
liable  to  frost  injury  than  the  orange,  is  particularly  liable  to  attacks 
of  Black  Scale  and  Mealy  Bug,  Yearly  fumigation  is  almost  a 
necessity.  It  is  fairly  profitable  when  grown  under  right  condi- 
tions. (See  also  under  Lemons.) 

Peach 

Very  easily  grown  and  a  prolific  bearer  all  over  the  County,  no 
yellows  or  rosette  known,  mildly  subject  to  attacks  of  Greedy  and 
San  Jose  Scale,  also  Green  Aphis  and  the  Black  Peach  Aphis  (Aphis 
persicae  niger)  which  latter  is  somewhat  menacing  where  it  has 
been  introduced.  Peach  root  borer  and  peach  twig  borer  also  do 
some  injury;  a  fungus  disease  known  as  curl  leaf  has  to  be  corn- 
batted.  Some  varieties  are  quite  free  from  it,  however,  and  spray- 
ing with  Bordeaux  Mixture  soon  after  the  leaves  fall,  and  perhaps 
in  spring  controls  it  well. 

Pears 

The  pear  tree  grows  thriftily  anywhere  in  the  County  and  if 
kept  free  from  insects  and  with  sufficient  moisture,  bears  well.  It 
has  been  much  neglected,  owing  to  the  pear  blight,  in  latter  years 
south  of  the  mountains,  but  produces  excellent  profits  to  quite  a 
number  of  growers  on  the  north  slopes,  and  in  the  Antelope  Val- 
ley region.  It  is  quite  subject  to  the  deciduous  Red  Spider,  the 
Greedy  Scale  and  the  San  Jose  Scale,  and  in  some  localities  has 
been  greatly  injured  by  the  Pear  Blight,  which,  however,  is  well 
controlled  by  Bordeaux  Mixture  and  Lime-Sulphur  spray. 

Plum 

This  is  perhaps  the  most  productive  and  healthy  fruit  tree  grown 
in  our  County  and  the  freest  from  insect  troubles.  It  fruits  well 
everywhere,  though  some  varieties  are  better  in  this  respect  than 
others,  and  a  little  Greedy,  Black  and  San  Jose  Scale,  usually 
unimportant,  are  about  all  the  insects  found  on  it. 

Prune 

This  tree,  planted  to  a  considerable  extent  here  in  former  years, 
has  more  lately  been  much  neglected,  as  in  this  locality  we  can  not 
seem  to  produce  fruit  equal  to  counties  further  north,  and'  the  low 
markets  do  not  warrant  growing  of  inferior  fruit. 

Insect  pests  attacking  it  are  about  the  same  as  for  the  plum. 


—15— 
Pomegranate 

A  fruit  of  little  market  value,  and  not  much  valued  by  most 
people.  It  is  easily  grown  and  troubled  a  little  by  Greedy  Scale 
only.  As  a  novelty  is  desirable  for  domestic  planting. 

Persimmon 

Very  easily  grown  and  little  affected  by  insects.  The  variety 
yielding  large  fruit  is  desirable  for  home  use. 

Quince 

This  delicious  preserving  fruit  no  one  in  the  County  need  be 
without  as  it  will  grow  itself  with  little  care  when  once  set  out. 
Pests  attacking  it  are  Black  and  Greedy  Scale,  and  the  Pear  Slug 
sometimes  does  damage. 

Walnut 

A  valuable  tree  for  Los  Angeles  County  south  of  the  Sierra 
Madres,  where  frost  is  not  too  severe.  It  thrives  best  in  a  moist 
alluvial  soil,  though  some  good  trees  are  growing  in  quite  heavy 
soils.  It  does  not  do  well  in  the  dry  granite  soils  of  the  foothills 
where  irrigation  supplies  the  only  moisture  in  the  summer.  A 
permanently  moist  subsoil  within  reach  of  the  roots  produces  the 
best  trees,  and  crops. 

Some  Greedy  and  Walnut  Scale  may  be  found  on  this  tree,  but 
the  only  thing  causing  the  grower  much  concern  is  the  Walnut 
Blight,  which  has  almost  ruined  many  groves  and  is  probably 
present  to  an  injurious  degree  in  all  of  them.  Resistant  varieties 
are  being  developed  and  grafted  stock  produced,  which  it  is  confi- 
dently hoped  will  produce  blight  proof  groves  in  the  future.  The 
walnut  tree  is  also  attacked  by  a  walnut  aphis  which  smuts  the 
leaves  and  fruit  very  badly  some  seasons.  It  is  held  in  check  very 
largely  by  the  larva  of  the  common  lady-birds.  A  good  walnut 
grove  is  a  good  investment. 

Celery 

This  vegetable  has  been  grown  successfully  on  all  light,  fine 
sediment  soil  in  the  County,  and  while  not  generally  competing 
with  the  far  famed  Orange  County  peat  beds,  is  a  profitable  garden 
crop,  and  we  have  some  localities  which  will  compare  well  with 
the  best. 


—16— 

Its  principal  disease  is  the  late  blight  which  affects  the  lower 
leaves  first,  but  later  spreads  well  over  the  plant,  leaving  its  dark 
stains  on  stalks  and  preventing  the  development  of  the  whole  plant. 
The  remedy  for  this  is  Bordeaux  Mixture  applied  twice  while  the 
plants  are  in  the  seed  bed,  again  about  five  weeks  after  they  are 
set  in  the  field,  and  once  a  month  thereafter  until  the  rains  come. 
After  that,  often  enough  to  keep  the  leaves  well  covered,  but  at 
least  once  in  two  weeks  to  protect  the  new  leaves  constantly  push- 
ing up,  until  harvested.  .  Many  growers  consider  the  expense  of 
this  repeated  spraying  not  justified  by  the  injury  usually  caused 
by  the  blight. 

Asparagus 

A  wonderfully  profitable  crop  in  some  localities,  but  these  "right" 
localities  do  not  seem  plentiful.  The  rust  has  caused  anxiety  the 
past  few  years.  It  attacks  the  bushy  after  growth,  checking  the 
vitality  of  the  plant.  No  wild  asparagus  should  be  allowed  to 
grow  in  cutting  time.  Irrigate  and  cut  well  in  summer  and  fall. 
After  cutting  dust  tops  thoroughly  with  dry  sulphur,  and  repeat 
two  or  three  times  later  in  the  season.  Always  plant  seed  from 
non-rusting  plants. 

Alfalfa 

Our  wonderful  forage  plant  has  always  been  very  free  from  in- 
sects except  the  army  worm  which  eats  everything,  and  a  locust 
which  would  sometimes  eat  the  foliage  of  a  crop  in  some  localities. 
But  it  is  now  threatened  with  the  alfalfa  weevil  from  Utah,  which 
is  making  great  havoc  with  the  alfalfa  fields  there.  Give  the  State 
or  County  Horticultural  Commissioner  immediate  notice  of  dis- 
covery of  any  bug  or  worm  which  resembles  it.  We  want  to  run 
down  every  suspicious  case.  It  will  be  done  at  State  expense 
and  will  cost  you  nothing. 

The  Dodder,  a  parasitic  plant,  has  been  a  serious  pest  in  many 
fields  and  the  seed  and  plant  should  be  carefully  guarded  against. 
The  plant  should  be  destroyed  at  once  when  found. 


—17— 


THE  MORE  COMMON  SHADE  AND  ORNAMENTAL  TREES 
AND  PLANTS  LIABLE  TO  INSECT  INFESTATION 


The  Pepper 

This  beautiful  tree  is  unfortunately  a  very  persistent  Black  Scale 
breeder  in  many  localities  where  other  black  scale  infested  trees 
are  near  it,  and  its  size  makes  its  treatment  difficult.  Spraying, 
the  only  practical  method,  seems  very  ineffectual,  and  probably  the 
best  course  with  larger  trees,  is  to  defoliate  them  by  trimming  off 
all  branches  under  two  inches  in  diameter.  If  this  is  done  late  in 
the  fall  or  early  in  the  winter  when  shade  is  not  required,  the  new 
shoots  will  produce  the  shade  again  by  the  following  summer,  and 
the  scale  will  be  completely  destroyed,  for  the  time  at  least. 

The  Black  Acacia 

The  above  name,  while  not  scientifically  correct  for  the  Black 
Wattle  (acacia  melanoxylon),  is  the  one  commonly  used  here. 
(Black  Wood  is  better.)  Oleander  Scale  and  Greedy  Scale  are 
the  important  insect  enemies  of  this  fine  shade  tree,  and  both 
are  easily  controlled  by  a  good  emulsion  spray.  Cottony  Cushion 
Scale  (Icerya  purchasi),  though  often  getting  started  on  this  tree, 
is  soon  completely  controlled  by  its  lady-bird  enemy  (Novius  car- 
dinalis)  and  a  chalcid  parasite  (Lestophonus  iceryae),  and  need  no 
attention. 

The  Camphor 

This  most  beautiful  dwarf  street  and  ornamental  tree,  while  easily 
grown  and  very  hardy  as  to  injury,  has  some  serious  insect  and 
disease  enemies.  The  Red  Scale  will  kill  it  sometimes  if  not 
checked.  The  Greedy  Scale  has  a  love  for  it,  and  a  peculiar  blight 
of  the  tender  new  growth  and  sometimes  of  the  older  leaves  checks 
its  thrift  and  often  makes  it  quite  unsightly  for  a  time.  The 
former  must  be  controlled  by  sprays  and  the  latter  is  a  problem 
as  yet  unsolved. 

The  Sterculia  or  Bottle  Tree 

Very  easily  grown  and  free  from  pests  and  disease  except  the 
Greedy  Scale,  which  often  becomes  quite  thick  on  the  bark,  to 
the  decided  injury  of  the  tree. 


—18— 
The  Palms 

Some  varieties  of  these  trees,  so  universally  hardy  in  California, 
and  which  fill  so  large  a  place  in  our  list  of  trees,  are  very  free 
from  insect  pests.  Of  this  description  are  the  large  fan  palm  and 
some  kinds  of  the  date  palm.  On  those  infested,  the  scale  is  easily 
seen  along  the  troughs  of  the  leaves  and  on  the  Coccus  plumosus 
and  a  few  similar  sorts  on  the  stalk  at  the  base  of  the  leaves.  The 
kinds  of  scale  are  the  Oleander  (Aspidiotus  hederae),  the  Greedy 
and  the  Red  Scale. 

One  tree  classed  with  the  palms,  the  Dracaena,  often  called  the 
Yucca  Palm,  is  always  likely  to  be  infested  with  Long-tailed  Mealy 
Bugs,  in  fact  it  is  one  of  the  worst  breeders  of  this  insect  and  the 
hardest  to  rid  of  it.  The  Sago  Palm  almost  always  harbors  more 
or  less  Black  Scale. 

Umbrella  Tree 

Easily  grown,  but  quite  subject  to  Greedy  Scale,  to  an  extent 
which  often  injures  it  badly. 

Rice  Paper  or  Rice  Tree 

Easily  grown,  somewhat  subject  to  Mealy  Bug  of  both  kinds. 

Magnolia 

A  beautiful  thrifty  tree  if  watered,  subject  somewhat  to  Greedy 
Scale  and  Mealy  Bugs.  Will  grow  anywhere  south  of  the  mountains. 

Cypress  (all  varieties) 

Subject  to  a  Mealy  Bug  of  a  kind  seldom  found  on  other  trees, 
but  nearly  resembling  the  citrus  variety.  It  is  pretty  well  con- 
trolled by  a  parasite.  The  tree  is  very  thrifty  and  hardy. 

Norfolk  Island  Pine 

Araucaria  excelsa 

Beautiful  and  thrifty  if  watered.  Very  subject  to  a  pure  white 
oval  scale  peculiar  to  this  tree,  called  Eriococcus  araucariae;  fairly 
easy  to  kill  with  resin  wash. 

Araucaria  Bidwelli  (Monkey  Puzzle) 

Very  thrifty  with  water,  and  subject  to  a  comparatively  rare 
scale,  similar  to  Greedy  Scale  in  shape  but  darker,  called  Aspidiotus 
rossi.  Resin  wash  will  kill  it. 


—19— 
Oleander 

Easily  grown,  beautiful  but  poisonous,  even  in  odor,  and  a  great 
Black  Scale  breeder.  Also  has  Greedy  and  Ivy  Scale.  Very  diffi- 
cult to  keep  clean. 

Castor  Bean 

This  plant  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  two  years  old, 
as  the  Red  Scale  then  begins  to  breed  on  it,  and  it  will  soon  almost 
completely  cover  the  smaller  branches  and  thus  be  communicated 
to  other  trees  and  plants  of  value. 

The  Roses 

Many  kinds  of  roses  are  very  clean  from  insects,  while  others 
growing  beside  them  are  covered  with  Red  and  Greedy  Scale,  and 
are  very  difficult  to  clean.  The  Rose  Scale  (Aulecaspis  rosae)  is 
very  apt  to  appear  on  the  older  canes  near  the  root,  working  thence 
upward,  and  Black  Scale  sometimes  gets  started  on  them  also. 

The  Lauristina 

A  very  thrifty  and  beautiful  ornamental  shrub,  but  very  subject 
to  black  and  other  scales. 

Euonymous  (A  variegated  leaf  shrub) 

Very  thrifty  and  easily  grown,  but  quite  subject  to  Black  Scale, 
Greedy  Scale  and  Mealy  Bug. 

Nightshade 

Very  subject  to  several  kinds  of  scale,  Black,  Red,  Greedy,  etc. 
Should  be  destroyed  everywhere,  and  especially  should  never  be 
allowed  to  grow  in  or  near  an  orchard. 

Wistaria 

No  trouble  to  grow  when  once  established,  though  a  little  slow 
in  starting,  whether  set  out  or  raised  from  seed.  In  the  latter  case 
it  seldom  blooms  until  grafted.  It  is  very  subject  to  Mealy  Bugs 
if  any  are  about.  Also  sometimes  has  a  little  wistaria  scale. 

Climbing  Potato 

A  vigorous  rapid  growing  light  climber,  but  sure  to  be  troubled 
with  Black  and  Ivy  Scale,  and  very  likely  Mealy  Bug. 


—20— 
Australian  Sweet  Pea 

A  very  strong  rapid  grower  and  thick  and  persistent,  but  sure 
soon  to  be  attacked  by  Black  and  Ivy  Scale  and  Mealy  Bug. 

English  Ivy 

Easily  grown  and  beautiful,  but  pretty  sure  to  suffer  from  Ivy 
Scale. 

Ferns 

Many  kinds  of  ferns  are  attacked  by  the  Hemispherical  Scale, 
and  as  the  adults  are  almost  proof  against  sprays,  the  affected  stalks 
should  be  cut  out,  and  as  the  young  scale  appear,  spray  well  and 
repeatedly  with  kerosene  emulsion.  The  potted  and  bedded  ferns 
suffer  alike  with  this  scale. 

Umbrella  Plants 

(Cyclerus  alternifolia) 

This  plant  is  a  prolific  breeder  of  Mealy  Bug,  and  should  be  very 
carefully  watched  if  grown. 

Papyrus 

Very  liable  to  have  Mealy  Bug  in  the  tops. 

Grevillea 

A  thrifty  tree,  hardy  to  a  temperature  of  15°  with  reasonable 
moisture.  Large,  showy,  yellow  bloom.  Constant  dropping  of  the 
large  leaves  is  often  very  annoying  about  dwellings  and  is  an  ob- 
jection to  the  tree.  Mealy  Bugs,  Black  and  Greedy  Scale  infest 
them  to  some  extent.  Distillate  emulsion  is  recommended. 

The  Privet 

(Ligustrum) 

A  small,  pretty  hardy,  street  and  ornamental  tree  near  the  coast, 
having  only  a  little  Ivy  Scale  as  insect  pest. 

The  Jacaranda 

This  easily  grown  novelty  with  its  fern  like  leaves  has  a  little 
Black  Scale  with  which  to  contend. 

The  Pittosporum 

This  hardy  and  much  admired  ornamental  tree  is  much  troubled 
with  Black  and  Greedy  Scale.  Frequent  spraying  with  distillate 
emulsion  will  be  required  to  keep  it  clean. 


—21— 
The  Eucalyptus 

This  tree  has  to  a  reasonable  degree  met  the  needs  of  the  south- 
west for  a  timber  supply,  and  some  variety  can  be  found  which 
will  just  be  suited  to  almost  any  locality  and  any  requirement  of 
a  tree  in  our  County.  However,  there  are  many  varieties  of  them, 
and  they  differ  so  much  that  the  consideration  of  a  few  of  the  best 
in  this  book,  will  not  be  amiss.  It  is  believed  that  in  the  future 
the  requirements  of  this  state  for  hardwood  lumber  will  be  much 
more  fully  met  than  has  yet  been  done  by  the  eucalyptus.  The 
eucatlyptus  is  attacked  by  very  few  insect  pests  or  diseases,  though 
on  the  seed  pods  and  young  shoots  of  the  globulus  or  Blue  Gum, 
we  sometimes  find  some  Greedy  Scale,  and  a  root  trouble  shows 
at  times,  especially  in  very  damp  locations. 

Eucalyptus  globulus  (Blue  Gum),  the  most  grown  tree  in  South- 
ern California,  is  of  wonderfully  rapid  growth,  and  this  fact  makes 
the  hardness  and  heavy  weight  of  the  timber  the  more  surprising. 
The  timber  is  not,  however,  durable  in  the  ground,  hence  is  not 
suitable  for  fence  posts,  telegraph  poles  or  railroad  ties,  though  it 
is  said  to  make  very  satisfactory  piles  for  use  in  salt  water,  and 
to  resist  well  the  action  of  the  toredo  and  other  destructive  ocean 
insects.  To  raise  for  fuel  it  is  one  of  the  best  trees  for  this  County, 
and  if  the  tendency  to  check  and  warp  can  be  obviated,  it  can  be 
adapted  to  wagon  manufacture  and  similar  use ;  however,  if  exposed 
to  the  air  and  weather  unpainted,  it  becomes  brittle  in  a  few  months. 
It  makes  a  good  wind  break,  and  for  foresting  our  otherwise  useless 
foothills,  it  is  among  the  best  trees  known.  If  these  hills  could  be 
planted  and  fire  kept  out,  they  would  soon  be  clothed  with  a  val- 
uable gum  forest. 

Eucalyptus  tereticornus  (Forest  Red  Gum  or  Gray  Gum)  is  one 
of  the  best  to  raise  for  timber.  Durable  in  the  ground,  hard,  strong, 
good  grain,  well  suited  to  any  purpose.  Posts  of  this  wood  are 
reported  to  have  stood  in  the  ground  in  good  condition  for  55  years 
in  Australia.  These  trees  grow  about  two-thirds  as  fast  as  the  Blue 
Gum,  and  are  probably  the  best  suited  to  all  conditions  of  our 
County  of  any  eucalyptus,  standing  cold  down  to  20°  and  doing 
well  on  the  desert.  They  thrive  well  on  the  foothills  and  the  bloom 
yields  abundance  of  honey  for  bees. 

Eucalyptus  rostrata  (Red  Gum)  is  a  similar  timber  to  tereticor- 
nus, a  little  slower  growth  and  not  as  straight,  will  stand  cold  to 
20°  and  is  a  harder,  finer  grained  wood.  It  is  very  durable  in  the 


—22— 

ground  and  salt  water,  fine  for  inside  finish  and  furniture  work, 
grows  well  on  the  foothills,  on  the  desert  or  in  alkali;  blooms  fur- 
nish good  bee  food.  It  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  the  eucalyptus. 
Eucalyptus  viminalis  (Manna  Gum)  is  a  quick  growing  tree,  is 
hardy  as  to  frost,  heat  and  drouth  as  any  eucalyptus,  and  makes  a 
very  big  tree.  It  is  excellent  for  a  wind  break  and  for  foothill 
planting,  but  poor  timber,  not  as  good  as  the  Blue  Gum. 

Eucalyptus  rudis  (Desert  Gum)  is  one  of  the  best  for  extremes 
of  both  heat  and  cold,  but  it  requires  a  fair  amount  of  moisture.  It 
makes  a  good  wind  break,  yields  good  honey,  and  the  wood  lasts 
well  in  the  ground.  Presumably  the  wood  is  hard  and  serviceable. 

Eucalyptus  corynocalyx  (Sugar  Gum)  is  a  fairly  rapid  grower 
and  yields  a  good  supply  of  bee  food.  Very  hardy  in  all  locations 
except  the  most  frosty,  seeming  to  stand  the  heat  and  drouth  well. 
The  timber  is  very  durable  in  the  ground,  and  for  wagon  and  similar 
construction  work,  and  does  not  warp  badly. 

Eucalyptus  robusta  (Swamp  Mahogany)  is  a  very  handsome  street 
tree  while  young,  but  becomes  more  straggling  after  the  fifth  year ; 
of  fairly  rapid  growth,  very  tolerant  of  alkali  but  not  of  drouth, 
and  with  timber  very  durable  in  the  ground  but  not  very  strong. 
Trees  are  apt  to  break  with  the  wind. 

Eucalyptus  sideroxylon  (Red  Ironbark)  is  a  dark,  rough  barked 
tree,  large  but  not  high,  unsuited  to  hot  interior  valleys;  a  nicely 
shaped  shade  tree,  and  a  good  forest  cover  for  stony  sterile  land, 
but  of  slow  growth.  Good  timber  for  all  ordinary  uses. 

Eucalyptus  diversicolor  (Karri  tree)  is  a  very  large  stately  tree, 
and  in  Australia  reaches  400  feet  in  heighth  and  20  feet  in  diameter. 
It  requires  some  moisture  and  is  not  a  desert  tree,  but  stands  cold 
to  20°.  Growth  is  fairly  rapid,  and  timber  straight  grained,  which 
is  rather  unusual  in  Eucalyptus.  It  is  valuable  for  lumber  and 
wagon  work. 

Eucalyptus  polyanthema  (Red  Box)  grows  to  a  medium  size  and 
is  of  fairly  rapid  growth.  It  thrives  well  and  is  very  hardy  in  all 
locations.  The  timber  is  very  hard,  strong  and  durable  for  railroad 
ties  and  wagon  work,  and  it  makes  fine  fuel.  It  has  a  spreading 
habit  of  growth  and  makes  a  fine  shade  tree,  also  a  good  street 
or  roadside  tree. 

Eucalyptus  populifolia  (Poplar-leaved  Box)  is  of  medium  size, 
much  resembles  polyanthema  and  is  more  tolerant  of  desert  con- 
ditions. 


—23— 

Eucalyptus  occidentalis  (Flat-topped  Yate)  is  a  slow  growing  va- 
riety of  more  spreading  habit  than  most  eucalyptus.  Does  well 
everywhere  if  not  too  frosty.  Should  make  a  good  street  tree; 
timber  is  good  and  durable. 

Eucalyptus  ficifolia  (The  Crimson-flowered  Gum)  is  of  slow 
growth,  slender  drooping  branches,  flowers  bright  crimson  if  va- 
riety is  not  mixed  with  others ;  a  very  handsome  street  and  orna- 
mental tree,  but  as  the  wood  is  tender,  must  be  kept  cut  back  to 
prevent  breaking  and  a  misshapen  top.  It  is  intolerant  of  frost. 

Eucalyptus  citriodora  (Lemon  -scented  Gum)  is  a  fairly  fast 
growing  tree  of  upright  habit  and  furnishing  excellent  timber  for 
any  purpose,  it  is  similar  to  hickory,  will  not  stand  much  frost 
or  drouth.  Its  leaves  smell  like  the  lemon. 

For  the  data  regarding  the  qualities  of  the  different  varieties 
of  the  eucalyptus  we  have  drawn  largely  from  the  writings  of 
James  A.  McClatchie. 


—24— 


HARMFUL  INSECTS  AND  THEIR  CONTROL 


To  act  intelligently  in  the  control  of  insect  plant  pests,  we  must 
remember  that  they  are  divided  into  two  general  classes,  accord- 
ing to  their  habits  of  attack  on  the  plant. 

The  sucking  insects,  including  the  scales,  spiders,  mites,  plant 
lice,  squash  bugs,  etc.,  obtain  their  food  by  inserting  their  pro- 
boscis into  the  tissues  of  the  plants  and  extracting  the  sap,  caus- 
ing insufficient  nourishment  to  the  plant  leaves,  shown  by  pale  or 
drooping  foliage. 

The  biting  insects  have  jaws  similar  to  ours,  but  which  work 
sideways,  and  they  take  portions  of  the  masticated  leaves  and 
other  plant  tissues  directly  into  their  stomachs,  often  defoliating 
portions  of  the  trees  and  tunnelling  the  bark  and  even  the  wood. 
They  include  the  grasshoppers,  leaf-eating  beetles,  and  the  many 
forms  of  moth,  beetle  and  butterfly  larva,  known  as  cut-worms, 
grubs,  wireworms  and  caterpillars. 

The  biting  insects  can  be  poisoned  either  by  arsenical  sprays 
(Paris  Green  or  Arsenate  of  Lead)  put  on  the  foliage  of  the  plants, 
or  by  similar  poisons  in  tempting  food,  like  dampened  bran,  or 
some  kind  of  green  food  placed  near  their  haunts. 

The  sucking  variety  can  be  killed  either  with  sprays,  which  kill 
by  coming  in  contact  with  their  bodies,  or  poisoning  the  air  about 
them,  or  smothering  them  by  closing  up  their  breathing  places, 
usually  a  row  of  holes  along  their  sides,  called  spiracles. 

The  kerosene  or  distillate  or  caustic  emulsions  act  in  the  first 
mentioned  manner,  fumigation  the  second,  while  resin  wash  closes 
up  the  spiracles. 

The  Black  Scale 

(Saissetia  oleae) 

The  Black  Scale  (Saissetia  oleae)  is  probably  the  most  widely 
known  and  constantly  fought  of  any  scale  of  the  citrus  tree,  and 
is  usually  pretty  well  known  in  the  adult  stage.  It  is  black,  or 
nearly  so,  and  has  cross  ridges  on  its  back  in  the  form  of  the  letter 
H,  by  which  it  can  easily  be  distinguished  from  the  Hemispherical 
and  other  scales  of  the  same  family. 


'  —  25— 


Black  Scale,  and  Lady-bird  Larvae  (Saissetia  oleae)  Adult. 

The  young  are  hatched  but  once  a  year  usually,  from  about 
July  1st  to  September  1st,  though  where  the  hatch  has  not  been 
controlled  by  fumigation,  off  hatches  often  occur  at  other  seasons. 
Some  hatch  as  early  as  April  and  May,  and  in  this  case  they  have 
time  to  mature  and  a  second  hatch  occurs,  making  two  broods  in 
the  one  year.  The  young  are,  at  first,  so  small  as  to  be  seen  with 
difficulty,  are  pale  yellow  and  move  quite  freely  but  slowly  on  the 
twigs  and  leaves  of  the  host  plant.  In  a  few  days  they  force  their 
proboscis  through  the  outer  skin  of  the  leaves  or  bark  and  begin 
to  live  on  the  sap,  seldom  moving  until  about  three  or  four  months 
old,  when  they  crawl  back  to  the  last  growth  of  young  wood,  seal 
themselves  fast,  remain  until  matured,  when  they  begin  to  deposit 
eggs.  It  is  difficult  to  say  just  how  long  it  takes  to  deposit  all  the 
eggs,  also  how  long  the  eggs  remain  dormant,  as  weather. conditions 
control  this  scale  through  all  its  stages. 

They  begin  to  turn  darker  as  soon  as  hatched  and  they  crawl 
from  under  the  shell.  A  tough  skin  begins  to  form  over  the  back 
at  once,  getting  thicker  and  darker  as  the  insect  grows.  During 
the  first  two  months  it  is  so  flat  and  so  near  the  color  of  the  dust 
covered  leaves  that  many  persons  fail  to  notice  it  at.  all,  or  if  they 


—26— 

do  notice  it,  fail  to  recognize  it  as  black  scale.  In  five  months  it 
is  about  as  large  as  the  adult  in  diameter,  but  quite  flat,  a  dull  blue 
in  color,  and  from  this  time  on  it  is  quite  difficult  to  kill  with  the 
best  of  fumigation,  until  when  full  of  eggs  it  becomes  almost  im- 
possible to  kill  it  by  a  dose  the  tree  will  stand,  the  shell  being  very 
hard  and  impervious  to  gas  or  spray.  It  is  sealed  so  tight  to  the 
tree  that  no  gass  can  penetrate  it. 

When  the  mother  deposits  her  eggs,  her  body  arches  over  them, 
decreasing  in  size  as  the  number  of  eggs  increase,  until  when  the 
eggs  are  all  deposited  to  the  number  of  750  or  more,  the  insect 
soon  dies,  and  in  about  four  or  five  months  the  hatching  begins. 

There  is  one  efficient  parasite  of  this  scale,  a  small  black  fly, 
Scutellista  cyanea,  often  called  "Scutes,"  which  deposits  one  or  more 
eggs  under  the  scale.  These  hatch  before  the  scale  eggs  do,  and 
the  resulting  larvae  lives  and  grows  on  an  egg  diet,  often  consum- 
ing all  the  eggs  before  it  pupates.  After  going  through  the  pupa 
stage,  the  mature  fly  pierces  the  top  of  the  scale  shell  and  crawls 
out.  The  old  scale  shells  showing  holes  in  the  top  are  only  empty 
houses  where  the  parasites  have  done  their  work  and  gone.  This 
largely  occurs  before  the  fumigation  season  begins,  and  the  remain- 
ing larva  still  in  the  shells  are  seldom  killed  by  the  gas  as  I  have 
myself  observed.  The  objection  to  fumigation,  that  the  parasite 
is  killed  as  well  as  the  scale  is  therefore  unfounded  as  to  the  larva. 

The  list  of  plants  and  trees  harboring  Black  Scale  is  very  long, 
the  more  common  ones  include  the  citrus  trees,  the  pepper,  olive, 
oleander  and  apricot,  and  the  wild  night  shade  weed,  which  last 
should  never  be  allowed  to  grow  in  or  near  orchards  as  an  added 
breeder  of  the  Black  Scale. 

The  black  smut  on  the  leaves  of  trees  infested  with  this  pest 
is  caused  by  a  black  fungus  which  grows  in  the  honey  dew,  an 
excretion  thrown  out  by  the  scale  and  greatly  relished  by  the  ants 
who  always  come  after  it,  but  who,  instead  of  injuring  the  scale, 
probably  help  to  spread  it. 

Fumigation  beginning  at  the  completion  of  the  hatch  and  con- 
tinued to  the  blue  stage  is  the  only  reliable  remedy  for  Black  Scale, 
though  when  they  are  all  very  young,  the  kerosene  or  distillate 
emulsion  sprayed  as  strong  as  the  tree  will  bear,  will  check  them. 
But  owing  to  the  thick  foliage  of  citrus  trees,  some  scale  always 
escape  the  spray,  soon  to  make  the  trees  as  bad  as  ever.  On  decid- 
uous trees,  after  the  leaves  fall,  carrying  many  scale  with  them, 
spraying  results  are  much  more  satisfactory. 


—27— 

Soft  Brown  Scale 

(Coccus  hesperidum) 

This  scale,  for  the  first  month  of  its  life,  looks  very  much  like  its 
black  cousin,  only  a  little  longer  and  a  trifle  lighter  in  color  and 
more  waxy  looking,  and  at  this  stage  they  are  so  transparent  that 
the  legs  of  the  insect  can  be  quite  plainly  seen  through  its  body. 
Often,  however,  it  shows  dark  spots  beneath  its  skin,  and  until 


Soft  Brown  Scale  (Coccus  hesperidum) 

the  outer  skin  becomes  thick  and  a  solid  brown  in  color,  these  dark 
spots  and  streaks  show  through,  making  a  distinguishing  mark. 
There  may  be  three  or  four  generations  in  a  year. 

The  young  are  born  alive  and  act  and  feed  very  similar  to  the 
Black  Scale,  except  that  they  do  not  travel  far  before  settling  down 
for  life.  The  individuals  are  thus  very  close  together,  and  they 
have  the  sticky  repulsive  appearance  mentioned  above.  At  the  pres- 
ent time  infestations  of  this  scale  soon  disappear  owing  to  effective 
work  of  several  parasitic  flies,  whose  dark  colored  larva  within  cause 
the  dark  spots  and  streaks  seen  through  the  skin.  Were  it  not  for 
these  active  parasites,  this  scale  would  probably  be  one  of  the  worst 
pests  of  our  citrus  groves. 


—28— 


Hemispherical  Scale  (Saissetia  hemisphaerica)  A  enlarged  individual. 


Hemispherical  Scale 

(Saissetia  hemisphaerica) 

This  scale  somewhat  resembles  the  Soft  Brown  Scale,  but  is 
more  elevated,  nearer  circular  at  the  base,  and  hard  and  shining 
on  the  top.  The  color  is  a  bright  brown  which  is  assumed  while 
they  are  quite  small.  They  infest  ferns  principally,  but  sometimes 
other  ornamental  plants  and  trees,  and  occasionally  citrus  trees, 
settling  on  leaves  as  well  as  branches.  The  adults  are  hard  to  kill, 
but  when  young  are  readily  killed  by  fumigation  and  thorough 
spraying.  Good  results  by  spraying  depend  upon  the  thorough- 
ness of  the  work. 


—29— 

The  Red  Scale 

(Chrysomphalus  aurantii) 

The  Yellow  Scale 

(Chrysomphalus  aurantii  var.  citrinus) 

The  Red  Scale  is  in  many  respects  a  very  different  insect  from 
those  we  have  already  mentioned.  The  adult  is  about  the  diameter 
of  a  pin  head,  nearly  circular,  and  varies  from  gray  to  brick-red, 
in  color.  The  form  on  top  rises  gradually  from  the  edge  towards 
the  center,  which  is  marked  by  a  more  or  less  distinctive  pyramid 
or  nipple.  It  is  well  protected,  with  an  armored  shell  above  and 
a  tight  film  underneath  making  it  very  hard  to  kill  by  fumigation. 

The  young  are  produced  alive,  not  hatching  from  eggs,  and  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  though  much  more  numerous  in  the  warm 
weather. 


Red  Scale  'C.  aurantii)     (a)  natural  size  of  leaf;  (b)  female  scale  greatly 
enlarged;    (c)  male  scale  greatly  enlarged. 

In  treating  trees  for  its  control,  the  best  time  is  during  the  summer 
or  fall  months  when  there  is  the  largest  proportion  of  young,  but 
good  fumigation  will  bring  results  at  any  time,  as  there  is  never  a 
period  when  all  the  scale  are  resistant  to  the  gas.  However,  this 
is  always  a  hard  scale  to  eradicate  entirely,  and  the  best  time  for 
fumigation  is  none  too  good,  some  practical  men  having  stated  the 
Red  Scale  is  as  hard  to  kill  as  the  Purple  Scale. 

The  Yellow  Scale  is  so  similar  to  the  Red  Scale  that  each  is 
often  mistaken  for  the  other,  and  the  following  are  some  of  the 
differences  by  which  they  may  be  distinguished.  The  Yellow  Scale 
is  much  more  easily  killed  than  the  Red.  It  is  a  trifle  broader, 


thinner  and  lighter  in  color.  When  crushed  it  will  not  pop  like 
the  red  or  produce  much  moisture,  and  it  is  less  regular  in  shape. 
It  is  found  on  the  fruit,  the  leaves,  or  more  tender  new  growth, 
scarcely  ever  on  the  wood,  while  the  Red  seldom  settles  on  a  leaf, 
practically  always  on  the  branches  and  fruit.  The  Yellow  is  much 
more  easily  affected  by  the  gas  than  the  Red,  and  there  are  other 
differences  revealed  by  the  miscroscope  which  establish  the  fact 
that  the  varieties  are  distinct,  but  which  are  of  little  practical  value 
to  the  grower. 

Many  of  both  of  these  scales  always  find  lodgment  on  the  fruit 
of  infested  trees,  and  as  the  Red  especially  is  very  difficult  to  wash 
off  completely,  the  sale  of  the  fruit  is  greatly  injured.  A  depression 
seems  often  to  form  under  a  Red  Scale  which  will  remain  after  the 
insect  is  removed,  and  the  lemon,  which  seems  more  attractive  to 
them  than  the  orange,  is  also  more  apt  to  be  pitted. 

The  Red  Scale  not  only  infests  the  citrus  trees,  but  also  the  cam- 
phor very  badly,  as  well  as  the  castor  bean,  the  sterculia,  many 
varieties  of  the  rose  and  the  nightshade  weed.  These  all  serve  to 
propagate  and  spread  it,  though  some  are  of  so  little  value  that  we 
are  not  much  concerned  about  their  infestation.  The  nightshade 
weed  should  be  fought  and  exterminated  everywhere,  and  especially 
about  the  orchards,  and  the  castor  bean  should  never  be  allowed 
to  become  over  one  year  old  to  breed  this,  one  of  the  worst  of  the 
scales. 

The  Yellow  Scale  is  of  comparatively  little  consequence. 

On  citrus  trees,  fumigation  good  and  s  trong,  is  the  only  efficient 
remedy  for  Red  Scale,  and  on  other  trees,  repeated  spraying  with 
kerosene  or  distillate  emulsion  or  resin  wash  is  probably  the  best 
we  can  do,  and  if  thoroughly  done  and  repeated  often,  it  will  keep 
the  trees  in  very  good  shape., 

The  Greedy  Scale 

(Aspidiotus  (rapax)  camelliae) 

The  Ivy  Scale 

(Aspidiotus  hederae) 

These  two  scales  are  in  shape  much  like  the  Red  and  Yellow 
Scales,  but  in  color  are  a  dirty  gray,  and  are  often  mistaken  by  the 
uninformed  for  a  fly  speck  when  they  appear  on  a  leaf. 

Like  the  Red  and  Yellow  Scale,  one  of  these  scales,  the  Greedy, 
usually  infests  the  twigs  and  branches  of  the  trees,  the  other  the 
leaves  or  very  young  and  tender  shoots.  The  Greedy  Scale  is  also 


—31— 

quite  apt  to  crowd  very  closely  together,  often  over-lapping,  while 
the  hederae  are  almost  always  separate.  The  latter  is  the  one 
which  usually  infests  English  Ivy  and  the  climbing  vines  and  soft 
juicy  plants,  and  also  the  Palms,  which  often  have  them  very  badly. 
The  Greedy  attacks  perhaps  the  greatest  variety  of  plants  and  trees 
of  any  scale,  hence  its  name,  and  to  many  it  is  very  destructive. 

Among  trees,  we  find  it  on  all  the  deciduous  fruit  trees  more  or 
less,  the  umbrella  often  very  bad,  sterculia,  acacias,  pepper,  camphor, 
citrus,  loquats  and  some  kinds  of  grapes.  In  fact  you  are  likely 
to  find  it  on  almost  any  plant  that  grows  if  it  is  bred  freely  by 
some  plant  or  tree  in  the  neighborhood. 

These  scales  are  not  very  difficult  to  kill,  and  a  good  kerosene 
or  distillate  emulsion  will  get  them  if  well  applied  and  often  enough, 
at  any  time  of  the  year. 

The  Purple  Scale 

(Lepidosaphes  beckii) 

The  Glover's  Scale 

(Lepidosaphes  gloverii) 

We  have  now  come  to  the  scale  generally  considered  the  most 
difficult  to  kill  and  the  most  destructive  to  the  citrus  of  all,  but  it 
infests  no  other  tree  or  plant  of  importance.  It  is  found  on  the 
branches,  leaves  and  fruit  indiscriminately,  and  if  unchecked,  be- 
comes so  numerous  as  to  form  a  complete  crust  of  scale,  particu- 
larly on  the  fruit,  so  as  to  hide  the  skin  entirely,  rendering  the  fruit 
absolutely  unfit  for  market,  and  bringing  sure  death  to  the  tree 
eventually. 

This  scale  was  introduced  on  nursery  stock  into  Southern  Cali- 
fornia 28  years  ago  by  the  Walker  Bros,  of  Orlando,  Fla.  It  was 
said  by  horticultural  men,  who  ought  to  have  known  better,  that 
this  scale  could  not  live  in  our  climate.  Fifty  thousand  of  these 
trees  were  allowed  to  be  distributed  and  planted  in  Los  Angeles, 
Riverside  and  Orange  counties.  The  greater  part  of  them  were 
planted  in  Riverside  after  being  thoroughly  dipped  in  resin  wash. 
If  any  Purple  Scale  survived  this  treatment  the  writer  has  never 
heard  of  it.  The  greater  part  of  these  trees  that  were  planted  about 
Downey,  Rivera  and  Whittier  were  not  treated,  consequently  in 
two  years  the  trees  had  become  badly  infested  and  the  scale  had 
spread  to  the  older  orchards.  This  was  before  the  sheet  tents  came 
into  use,  and  the  method  of  fumigating  large  trees  at  that  time  was 


Purple  Scale,  Appearance  on  leaf. 
(Lepidosaphes  beckii) 


so  expensive  as  to  make  the  cost  prohibitive.  Very  little  effort 
was  made  to  control  the  scale  until  1902.  Consequently  there  were 
eighteen  years  during  which  it  was  allowed  to  spread,  and  all  citrus 
trees  from  Downey  north  to  Pico  and  east  of  the  Old  San  Gabriel 
River  for  20  miles  had  become  more  or  less  infested  with  it. 

In  the  past  10  years  nearly  all  citrus  trees  about  Whittier,  Rivera 
and  Downey  have  been  fumigated  each  year  with  very  good  results, 
and  while  the  growers  have  kept  up  a  persistent  and  costly  fight 


—33— 


>* 
s    » 

^    M    g* 

' 


r^enO) 

gsi 


—34— 

to  control  the  Purple  Scale,  it  should  be  some  consolation  to  know 
that  all  the  other  scale  pests  have  been  controlled  at  the  same  time. 

The  above  should  show  the  necessity  of  thoroughly  treating  trees 
before  planting,  and  not  to  rely  too  much  on  inspection. 

The  female  of  the  Purple  Scale  lays  25  to  30  eggs  when  she  is 
about  three  months  old  from  which  are  hatched  the  minute  yellow 
youngsters  who,  after  crawling  around  a  day  or  two,  settle  for  life 
like  the  other  scales,  and  throw  out  a  couple  of  long  hairs  which 
seem  to  protect  them  in  some  way  from  the  larva  of  the  lady-birds 
until  the  scale  cover  begins  to  form,  but  the  hairy  appearance  re- 
mains for  a  month  or  so  and  is  a  good  indication  that  the  scale  are 
young  and  in  good  condition  to  be  killed  by  fumigation. 

The  young  scale  are  shaped  much  like  an  oyster  shell,  being  often 
known  as  oyster  shell  scale,  and  the  pointed  end  grows  longer  as 
they  become  older. 

The  adult  is  about  y%  of  an  inch  long  and  1-16  of  an  inch  wide 
in  the  rear,  coming  nearly  to  a  point  at  the  other  end,  which  in 
the  female  is  curved.  Three  or  four  generations  are  hatched  in  a 
year,  but  the  larger  number  come  in  the  fall  months,  therefore  the 
early  fall  is  the  best  time  to  fumigate  for  this  scale,  but  at  no  time 
are  they  approximately  all  in  about  the  same  condition  of  growth, 
and  as  the  eggs  are  not  usually  killed  by  gas,  one  fumigation  never 
gives  a  complete  killing,  though  lessening  them  to  aomo  extent,, 
and  they  have  often  been  treated  in  this  way  with  benefit. 

The  plan  giving  best  results  is  to  fumigate  well  about  from  August 
15th  to  Sept.  15th,  which  kills  the  scale  then  in  the  breathing  stage, 
then  in  about  ten  weeks,  when  the  eggs  remaining  have  hatched, 
but  the  young  are  not  old  enough  to  begin  laying  eggs,  fumigate 
again,  which  will  put  the  trees  in  good  shape,  and  the  hatch  for 
the  future  will  come  more  nearly  at  the  same  time  so  that  the  regu- 
lar treatments  at  the  usual  periods  will  keep  the  trees  in  good 
shape,  and  for  those  who  can  afford  to  follow  this  plan  it  is  econ- 
omy for  them  to  do  so.  Sprays  have  practically  no  effect  on  this 
scale,  and  only  the  best  of  fumigation  will  be  satisfactory. 

The  Glovers  Scale  belonging  to  the  same  family  with  the  Purple 
Scale  is  of  comparatively  very  little  importance.  Its  appearance 
is  very  similar,  but  it  is  not  so  broad  in  the  rear,  is  more  nearly 
straight  and  not  usually  quite  so  long.  We  know  of  none  in  this 
County  on  citrus  trees,  and  very  little  in  Southern  California,  but 
on  box-wood  we  very  frequently  find  it.  Fumigation  is  the  best 
remedy. 


—35— 

The  Citrus  Mealy  Bug 

(Pseudococcus  citri) 

The  Long-Tailed  Mealy  Bug 

(Pseudococcus  adonidum) 

The  Cypress  Mealy  Bug 

(Pseudococcus  ryani) 

The  mealy  bug  is  a  pest  which  has  seemed  to  spring  into  great 
importance  in  the  past  three  or  four  years.  It  is  a  small  oval  shaped 
bug  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  long  at  its  largest,  in  shape  much 
like  the  damp  bugs  or  sow  bugs  found  under  boards  in  damp  places, 
but  white  as  if  flour  had  been  sprinkled  all  over  it.  The  long- 
tailed  kind  have  from  three  to  five  long  hairs  nearly  parallel,  pro- 
truding from  the  rear,  the  hairs  being  nearly  as  long  as  the  bug. 

In  the  East  they  are  a  greenhouse  pest  constantly  fought,  and 
here  are  found  on  a  great  number  of  plants  and  trees,  those  for 
which  we  are  most  concerned  being  of  course  the  citrus  trees. 


Citrus  Mealy  Bug.   (Pseudococcus  citri) 
Much  enlarged. 


Long  Tailed  Mealy  Bug  (Pseudococcus  adonidum) 
Much  enlarged. 


The  female  of  the  citrus  mealy  bug  deposits  350  to  400  eggs, 
protecting  them  in  a  cottony  substance  which  she  secretes,  and 
they  hatch  in  about  two  or  three  weeks  according  to  the  tempera- 
ture. There  are  probably  four  or  five  generations  a  year.  The 
male  is  a  two  winged  fly. 

They  infest  the  branches,  leaves  and  fruit  of  the  citrus  trees, 
and  in  the  latter  are  very  often  hidden  in  the  navel,  and  under 


—36— 

the  husk  like  collar  about  the  stem,  and  in  these  places  are  almost 
impossible  to  remove  or  kill  by  sprays.  If  left  on  packed  or  cur- 
ing fruit  they  continue  to  breed  and  eat  and  grow  until  the  whole 
package  is  infested.  Many  come  to  our  ports  on  pineapples  from 
Hawaii  after  a  voyage  of  some  length,  proving  their  tenacity  of  life. 

They  secrete  a  honey-dew,  and  the  smut  produced  thereby  with 
the  masses  of  cottony  material  on  the  tree  and  fruit,  have  a  very 
repulsive  appearance.  The  growth  of  the  tree  is  not  materially 
checked  unless  the  infestation  is  very  bad,  but  the  sale  of  the  fruit 
is  much  injured,  and  ruined  if  bad,  as  it  is  impossible  to  clean  it 
all,  and  the  severe  washing  causes  decay  and  loss. 

The  ants  are  sure  to  accompany  the  bugs,  but  as  in  the  case 
of  the  Black  Scale,  they  never  injure  them,  but  undoubtedly  carry 
the  young  from  place  to  place  and  aid  in  their  spread. 

In  some  localities  spraying  seems  to  have  given  as  good  re- 
sults as  anything,  and  at  lower  cost  than  fumigation,  but  our  ex- 
perience leads  us  to  believe  that  fumigation  is  the  best,  all  things 
considered.  Spraying  can  never  eradicate  the  insect,  only  control 
it,  and  if  repeated  as  often  as  necessary  for  good  results,  it  is  as 
expensive  as  fumigation,  and  we  believe  that  if  the  latter  is  per- 
sisted in,  they  can  be  eradicated. 

The  Long-tailed  Mealy  Bug  has  habits  of  life  very  much  like 
the  Citrus  Mealy  Bug,  and  it  is  often  found  on  citrus  trees,  but 
will  infest  nearly  every  kind  of  plant  if  one  of  its  favorites  is  in 
the  neighborhood.  One  of  the  greatest  of  these  favorites  is  the 
Dracaena  Palm,  often  called  the  Yucca  Palm.  The  crown  of 
pointed  leaves  at  the  top  is  very  often  alive  with  the  bugs,  and 
some  can  be  found  on  almost  all.  The  magnolia  also  has  them, 
but  not  so  badly,  also  the  papyrus  and  the  umbrella  plant,  and 
similar  ornamental  plants. 

The  Cypress  Mealy  Bug  lives  only  on  the  cypress  trees,  either 
in  hedges  or  growing  singly,  and  is  of  little  importance  compar- 
atively. 

On  trees  and  plants  other  than  the  citrus,  spraying  is  probably 
our  only  resource,  and  the  distillate  emulsion  and  the  carbolic  acid 
spray  we  consider  the  best.  Each  has  its  advocates  in  different 
localities. 


—37— 

The  Citrus  Red  Spider 

(Tetranychus  mytilaspidis  Riley) 

The  Six  Spotted  Red  Spider 

(Tetranychus  sexmaculatus  Riley) 

The  Almond  or  Deciduous  Red  Spider 

(Bryobia  pratensis) 

The  Silver  Mite 

(Hriophyes  oleivorus) 

These  little  creatures,  while  not  belonging  to  the  insects,  but 
to  the  spider  or  mite  family,  are  of  great  interest  to  the  fruit 
grower.  They  are  very  small  and  difficult  to  detect,  though  the 
bright  red  color  of  some  are  in  strong  contrast  to  the  leaves  and 
fruit,  and  with  a  pocket  or  miner's  glass,  they  can  be  seen  quite 
plainly  in  all  their  ugliness,  for  they  are  perhaps  the  most  repul- 
sive looking  of  all  our  plant  pests. 

The  Citrus  Red  Spider  infests  citrus  trees  only,  but  the  Bryobia 
are  very  plentiful  on  some  deciduous  trees,  especially  the  almond, 
while  the  sexmaculatus  work  great  havoc  with  beans,  peas  and  other 
similar  plants.  All  are  more  plentiful  in  the  spring,  but  some  are 
on  the  trees  and  plants  the  year  around. 

They  suck  out  the  juices  of  the  leaves,  leaving  a  pale  colored 
spot  later  turning  to  an  ashy  gray  or  yellowish  appearance,  ana 
if  the  infestation  is  bad,  the  leaves  soon  drop. 

The  Citrus  Spider  or  mite  is  bright  red  when  adult,  but  paler 
in  color  when  young,  and  can  be  detected  on  both  fruit  and  leaves. 
The  eggs  are  deposited  singly,  mostly  along  the  ribs  of  the  leaves, 
and  ^are  globular  and  bright  red  in  color.  From  a  little  mast  stick- 
ing up  from  the  top  of  the  eggs,  guy  threads  run  to  the  leaf  sur- 
face all  around,  probably  to  anchor  the  egg  more  firmly,  but  a 
good  glass  is  required  to  see  these  guys. 

The  Bryobia  on  the  almond,  pear,  apple,  plum  and  cherry  ha? 
much  the  same  affect  on  the  tree  as  the  Red  Spider  on  the  citrus 
trees,  but  it  can  be  detected  more  easily  by  its  eggs,  which,  with 
the  remains  of  hatched  eggs,,  form  patches  of  various  sizes,  light 
gray  in  color,  but  with  the  red  egg  showing  through.  They  will 
color  the  fingers  red  if  rubbed  on  them  and  they  completely  hide 
the  bark  on  which  they  form.  The  patches  appear  first  about  the 
buds,  but  on  the  almond  especially,  will  sometimes  cover  the  whole 
of  many  of  the  smaller  branches.  They  thrive  best  in  hot  weather. 

On  plants  infested  with  the  sexmaculatus,  the  eggs  show  plainly 


—38- 


Citrus  Red  Spider,  side  view,  Female. 


in  small  masses,  but  both  the  eggs  and  the  mites  are  lighter  in 
color,  and  the  latter,  under  a  good  glass,  will  show  six  odd  shaped 
spots  on  the  back.  They  make  the  leaves  of  the  plant  turn  yellow 
and  fall,  beans  especially.  They  also  infest  the  underside  of  citrus 
leaves. 

The  Silver  Mite,  while  not  known  in  our  county,  is  quite  com- 
mon in  a  neighboring  one,  and  should  be  guarded  against.  They 
work  on  citrus  trees,  on  the  leaves,  much  like  the  Citrus  Mite,  but 
on  the  fruit  they  extract  the  oil  and  coloring  matter  from  the  rind, 
giving  the  lemon  a  silvery  appearance,  and  a  russet  color  to  the 
orange. 

There  is  also  the  Blister  Mite  which  attacks  grapes,  walnuts, 
pears,  etc.,  forming  blister  like  excretions  on  the  leaves,  but  we 
know  of  no  trouble  from  it  here. 


Citrus  Red  Spider  (Tetranychus  mytelaspides)  Male. 


—40— 


For  all  these  spider  sand  mites,  the  remedy  is  sulphur.  It  can 
be  used  dry  in  which  case  it  should  be  as  fine  and  pure  as  pos- 
sible, and  applied  in  the  early  morning,  preferably  by  blowing  it 
into  the  foliage  as  thoroughly  as  possible  while  the  leaves  are  damp 
so  it  will  stick  to  them.  It  is  also  much  more  effective  in  warm 
weather,  as  it  is  the  fumes  liberated  by  the  heat  that  do  the  work. 
It  is  often  mixed  with  half  as  much  lime,  air-slacked,  to  make  it 
adhere  better  to  the  leaves. 

The  liquid  lime  sulphur  sprays  are  also  very  efficient,  and  warm 
weather  is  not  so  necessary  to  their  success. 


—41— 


i 


Novius  (Vidalia)  Cardinalis,  Adult  and  Larva. 
Much  enlarged. 


Cotton  Cushion  Scale 
(Icerya  purchasi) 


The  Cottony  Cushion  Scale 

(Icerya  purchasi) 

Novius  (Vedalia)  Cardinalis 

Little  need  be  said  of  this  scale  as  it  is  no  longer  a  pest  in  Cali- 
fornia, though  at  one  time  it  appeared  to  be  ruining  the  citrus  in- 
dustry, the  large  white  covered  insects  making  many  groves  look 
as  if  they  had  passed  through  a  snow  storm,  and  ho  treatment 
would  check  it  at  all.  Then  the  little  lady-bird,  about  one-half  the 
size  of  a  bird  shot,  was  brought  from  Australia  by  Chas.  Koebele, 
to  whom  too  much  credit  can  not  be  given  for  his  persistent  advo- 
cacy of  getting  a  parasite  for  this  scale,  which  finally  resulted  so 
beneficially.  These  parasites  increased  astonishingly,  and  in  a  few 
months  had  the  scale  under  control.  They  have  kept  them  down 
to  a  negligible  quantity  since  then,  and  we  are  always  glad  to 
see  a  few,  as  the  Novius  (Vidalia)  cardinalis  will  always  find  them 
soon  and  will  thus  be  kept  from  starving  and  dying  out. 


—42— 


The  adnlt  female  of  the  Mexican  orange  maggot  (Anastrepha  ludens) 
(U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agrcl.) 


Mexican  Orange  Maggot  (Anastrepha  ludens) .     A. -Larva,     B.-Anal  segment  of  same, 
C.-Pupa,    D.-Head  of  same.     A  and  E  enlarged,  B,  D  and  C  more  enlarged. 

The  Mexican  Orange  Maggot 

(Anastrepha  ludens) 

The  Mediterranean  Fruit  Fly 

(Ceratitis  capitata) 

The  Citrus  White  Fly 

(Ale yr odes  citri) 

These  three  fruit  pests  are  the  ones  our  state  quarantine  officers 
are  watching  more  closely  than  any  coming  in  on  foreign  fruits 
and  trees.  The  first  two  have  not  yet,  so  far  as  we  know,  obtained 
a  foothold  in  our  State,  and  only  one  or  two  very  small  infesta- 
tions are  known  of  the  white  fly.  These  last  are  being  fought 
persistently  regardless  of  expense  and  effect  on  trees  and  plants, 


and  it  is  confidently  expected  that  they  will  be  exterminated  in 
a  short  time.  They  are  decreasing  every  year.  The  adult  is  a 
minute  white  fly,  one-tenth  of  an  inch  long,  looking  as  if  it  had 
been  sprinkled  with  flour,  and  the  immature  form  is  a  flat,  greenish 
scale-like  insect  with  habits  much  like  the  other  scales,  but  nearly 
transparent  and  of  waxy  appearance.  It  is  less  than  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  long  and  lays  very  flat  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf. 


Maggots  and  Puparia  of  the  Mediteraneum  fruit  fly 
(Ceratitis  capitata). 

It  deposits  the  honey  dew  and  the  resulting  black  smut  is  very 
bad.  In  Florida  it  is  their  worst  citrus  pest,  and  must  be  driven 
out  of  California  at  any  cost. 

The  Mediterranean  Fruit  Fly  deposits  its  eggs  in  the  fruit  and 
they  hatch  out  into  an  army  of  white  maggots  just  about  the  time 
the  fruit  ripens.  They  soon  work  through  the  pulp  and  it  rapidly 


becomes  decayed.  The  fruit  drops  to  the  ground  and  the  worms, 
which  will  curl  up  and  snap  themselves  an  amazing  distance,  at 
once  burrow  into  the  ground  where  they  pupate  and  soon  emerge 
as  a  fly. 

They  affect  almost  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  vegetables  except  pine- 
apples and  bananas,  which  are  the  only  fruit  admitted  from  Hawaii 
on  this  account. 

The  Mexican  Orange  Maggot  has  almost  the  same  habits  as  the 
Mediterranean  Fly,  and  infests  oranges,  sweet  limes,  mangoes, 
achras  sapotes,  peaches,  guavas  and  plums.  All  of  these  fruits 
from  Mexico  are  excluded  from  California  and  Arizona. 

These  pests  should  be  watched  for  very  carefully  in  every  orchard 
and  wherever  fruit  is  found.  If  you  find  fruit  or  vegetables  filled 
with  maggots,  do  not  throw  them  away  and  thus  give  the  worms 
a  chance  to  go  into  the  ground  and  mature  and  start  the  pest  here. 
Wrap  the  fruit  up  to  prevent  their  escape,  and  send  to  the  nearest 
Horticultural  Inspector  for  investigation.  It  is  a  serious  matter. 


APHIS  OR  PLANT  LICE 

Woolly  Aphis 

( S chizoneura  lanigera) 

.  Black  Peach  Aphis 

(Aphis  persicae  niger) 

Orange  Aphis 

(Aphis  gossipi) 

The  aphis  family  is  probably  the  most  widely  distributed  and 
most  prolific  of  any  plant  eating  insects  known,  and  were  it  not 
for  many  very  active  parasites,  and  the  work  of  predaceous  insects, 
we  should  find  it  difficult  to  bring  to  maturity  any  plant  life. 

However,  the  above  mentioned  friends  work  hard  for  us  and  most 
kinds  of  the  aphis  do  us  comparatively  little  damage. 

We  have  aphis  known  as  the  orange,  the  green  rose,  the  brown 
or  black,  the  melon,  the  black  peach,  the  woolly  aphis,  and  many 
more  of  less  importance. 

The  Black  Peach,  the  Melon  and  the  Wolly  Aphis  are  the  ones 
most  important  for  the  fruit  grower  to  control,  as  the  care  of 
orange  trees  for  other  pests  almost  always  subdues  the  aphis  on 
them.  The  Melon  Aphis  is  now  managed  by  placing  colonies  of 
the  common  spotted  and  red  ladybirds  in  the  melon  patch.  They 


can  be  obtained  from  the  State  Insectary.  Ashes  or  lime  placed  on 
the  damp  vines  is  recommended. 

The  Black  Peach  Aphis  and  the  Wolly  Aphis  attack  both  the 
top  and  the  roots,  the  Black  Peach  Aphis  attacking  peach  and  other 
stone  fruit  trees,  and  the  Woolly  Aphis  attacking  apple  trees. 

The  Black  Peach  Aphis  seems  not  to  be  seriously  regarded  in 
the  East,  but  on  sandy  soils  of  this  County,  it  has  caused  much 
alarm  and  some  trees  have  been  killed  to  stop  it  from  spreading. 


Wooly  Aphis  (Schizoneura  lanigera  Hausm) ;  a.-root  in- 
jury by  the  underground  form ;  b. -wingless  female; 
c.-winged  female.  (U.  S.  Dept.  Agrcl.) 


Black  Peach  Aphis  (Aphis  persicae-niger) 


The  only  remedy  here  seems  to  be  a  solution  of  potassium  cyanide 
placed  in  a  trench  around  the  roots  of  the  tree,  or  carbon  bisulphide 
put  about  one  foot  below  the  surface,  close  to  the  tap  root,  and 
either  remedy  is  quite  likely  to  kill  the  tree,  though  the  cyanide  is 
least  severe.  In  each  case  the  top  should  be  sprayed  well  with 
krosene  emulsion  at  the  same  time. 

The  Woolly  Aphis  is  controlled  by  the  application  of  wood  ashes, 
tobacco  stems,  or  kerosene  emulsion  about  the  roots  near  the 
tree,  and  the  kerosene  emulsion  spray  for  the  top.  This  treat- 
ment is  recommended  by  many  authorities  for  the  Black  Peach 
Aphis,  but  it  is  not  efficient  here  for  this  species. 

The  swollen  yellow  bodies  of  the  Orange  and  Rose  Aphis,  with 
a  hole  in  the  top  of  each,  show  the  work  of  the  parasitic  fly  which 
keeps  them  in  control,  and  if  any  treatment  is  needed,  tobacco 
solution  will  do  the  work. 


—46— 
The  Longulus  Scale 

This  is  a  new  variety,  the  origin  of  which  no  one  seems  to  know, 
and  which  infests  only  the  citrus  trees  in  a  small  territory  in  one 
section  of  the  County.  It  is  described  as  somewhat  like  to  the 
Soft  Brown  Scale  in  some  stages,  and  has  been  sometimes  so  classed. 

It  seems  to  rear  but  one  brood  per  year  which  appear  anywhere 
from  May  1st  to  August  20th.  The  young  are  much  like  those 
of  the  Soft  Brown  Scale,  but  a  little  larger  and  more  yellow  at 
first,  and  after  settling,  become  more  flat,  a  greenish  color,  and 
more  transparent  than  the  Soft  Brown  Scale. 

They  first  settle  on  the  tender  twigs  and  leaves,  mostly  on  the 
under  side.  By  January  the  most  of  them  move  onto  the  twigs 
and  small  branches  and  change  to  a  mottled  gray  color.  As  they 
grow,  they  become  more  convex,  until  at  maturity  they  are  a 
long  oval  in  shape  and  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  long  at  their 
largest,  with  many  much  smaller,  but  producing  young  and  appear- 
ing to  be  adults.  When  close  together,  they  often  lap  in  regular 
order  like  fish  scales. 

After  the  young  are  all  hatched,  the  mother  turns  dry  and  brown, 
loosens  her  hold  on  the  tree  and  often  drops  off,  leaving  a  white 
powdery  residue  on  the  branch;  very  few  old  ones  remaining  on 
the  tree  over  winter.  They  are  never  found  on  the  fruit. 

They  seem  to  require  fumigation  somewhat  earlier  than  the  Black 
Scale,  say  from  July  15th  to  Sept.  1st  for  best  results,  and  sprays 
have  proved  useless.  There  seems  to  be  very  little  work  of  para- 
sites on  this  scale. 

Pear  Thrips 

(Euthrips  pyri) 

Citrus  Thrips 

(Euthrips  citri) 
Bean  Thrips 

(Euthrips  fasciatus) 

The  thrips  are  very  small,  active,  hopping  and  flying  insects, 
probably  native  to  California.  There  are  many  kinds,  of  which 
we  will  speak  of  a  few. 

The  Orange  Thrip  is  dark  yellow,  with  a  life  term  of  about  20 
days,  hence  are  constantly  being  born  and  dying.  They  attack  the 
tender  leaves  and  twigs  of  the  orange  early  in  the  season,  and 
later  the  fruit,  and  the  fruit  is  scarred  in  a  peculiar  manner.  A 
ring  is  formed  around  either  or  both  ends  and  the  lines  radiate 


—47— 

from  the  rings,  sometimes  uniting  them.     Solid  and  irregular  lines 
and  patches  are  also  made. 

The  insect  is  of  little  importance  in  this  County,  but  in  some 
other  parts  of  the  state  is  a  very  serious  pest.  The  control  measure 
recommended  by  the  U.  S.  Government  investigators  is  a  spray 
made  up  of  the  following: 


Work  of  Orange  Thrip.     Note  peculiar  arrangement  of  scars  in 
circles  and  radiating  lines. 

gallons  of  lime-sulphur  solution  (33°  Beaume). 
2  gallons  black  leaf  (2^4%  nicotine). 

(or  14  fluid  oz.  black  leaf  40). 
200  gallons  of  water. 

Thoroughly  drench  the  tree  with  this  spray,  especially  on  the 
outside.  Apply  three  times  during  the  spring  months  to  save  the 
fruit  and  leaves,  and  once  in  the  fall  to  save  the  fall  growth. 


—48— 

The  Pear  Thrip  in  the  region  around  San  Francisco  Bay  attacks 
pears,  plums,  prunes,  etc.,  but  as  the  insect  spends  eleven  months 
in  the  ground,  thorough  plowing  and  cultivation  helps  much  in  its 
control.  It  attacks  the  leaves  and  scars  the  young  fruit.  The  above 
spray  applied  in  March  and  again  in  April  is  recommended. 

The  Bean  Thrip  does  much  damage  to  beans  and  peas,  attacking 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves. 

Other  varieties  attack  the  orange  bloom  with  but  little  injury, 
but  on  roses,  etc.,  in  greenhouses,  they  have  to  be  fought  constantly. 


Peach  Twig  Borer 

(Anarsia  Uneatella) 

This  borer  is  also  known  as  the  Peach  Moth,  Peach  Worm  and 
the  Bud  Worm.  It  is  a  peculiar  insect,  the  means  of  doing  great 
damage  in  some  of  the  deciduous  fruit  regions  of  the  State,  and  of 
some  importance  in  our  County.  It  should  be  known,  watched 
for  and  guarded  against  carefully. 

During  the  winter  the  little  larva  or  worms  are  hibernating  in 
the  thick  bark  at  the  crotches  and  about  wounds  in  the  trunk  of 
the  tree.  They  are  only  about  1-32  of  an  inch  long,  and  grow 
before  pupating  to  a  length  of  ^4  to  ^  of  an  inch.  Their  hiber- 
nating place  can  be  detected  by  little  chimneys  of  bark  pulp  about 
1-32  of  an  inch  high  erected  at  the  mouth  of  each  burrow.  When 
spring  arrives  they  come  out  and  bore  into  the  swelling  buds  and 
starting  twigs,  killing  them.  New  grafts  and  dormant  buds  are  very 
apt  to  be  attacked.  In  six  weeks  they  pupate  in  curls  of  the  bark 
on  the  trunk  and  soon  come  out  a  moth  of  steel  gray  color  and 
quick  movement.  Three  generations  are  hatched  during  the  sum- 
mer. The  first  from  eggs  deposited  in  the  young  twigs  about  May 
10th.  These  bore  into  the  pith  of  the  twig  and  kill  it,  then  later 
enter  the  fruit  about  the  stem  and  after  injuring  it  considerably, 
come  out  and  pupate  during  June,  July  and  August  in  the  suture 
cleft  of  the  fruit  near  the  stem.  In  a  week  the  second  moth  ap- 
pears depositing  eggs  on  the  fruit  near  the  stem  dent.  In  a  week 
these  hatch  out  worms  which  eat  into  the  fruit  working  there  for 
a  month,  then  coming  out  to  pupate  again,  the  third  moth  appear- 
ing in  a  week  to  deposit  eggs  in  cracks  of  the  bark  from  which 
hatch  the  worms  which  at  once  begin  burrowing,  in  the  crotches  of 
the  trees,  the  chambers  with  chimneys,  in  which  to  pass  the  winter. 

Remedy:     Lime-sulphur  spray  applied   hot   if  possible,   just   be- 
fore blooming  time. 


—49— 


Peach  Twig  Borer  (Anarsia  lineatella).     Little  chimney  at  mouth 
of  winter  burrow  at  crotch  of  branch. 


Young  twig  showing  entrance  hole  of  Peach  Twig  Borer. 


Young  twig  showing  work  of  Peach  Twig  Borer. 


—50— 

The  Rose  and  Berry  Scale 

(Aulacaspis  rosae) 

This  scale  is  a  very  serious  pest  to  the  berry  grower,  and  a  great 
annoyance  to  the  rose  lover  at  times. 

It  appears  a  dead  white,  on  the  canes  of  the  bushes  near  the 
ground,  and  looks  much  like  splashes  of  whitewash  thrown  on  them. 
The  scale  pulled  off,  reveals  the  tiny  red  insect  beneath.  They  par- 
ticularly like  loganberries  and  often  ruin  the  plants. 

The  best  remedy  is  to  cut  out  the  old  canes  as  soon  as  done  bear- 
ing, and  spray  those  remaining  with  kerosene  emulsion,  digging 
the  soil  away  around  the  roots  to  allow  the  fluid  to  penetrate  to  them 
as  the  scale  often  infests  the  canes  below  the  surface. 


Twelve  Spotted  Leaf  Beetle  (Diabrotia  soror) 
Much  enlarged. 

Diabrotica  Soror 

This  is  the  familiar  green  beetle  with  twelve  black  spots.  It  is 
found  everywhere,  on  all  sorts  of  plants,  and  on  all  of  them  it  does 
more  or  less  damage.  The  tender  growth  of  the  orange  tree  is 
often  attacked,  freshly  budded  and  young  trees  being  especially 
subject  to  them,  but  the  lemon  seems  to  be  immune.  The  larva 
lives  in  the  ground  and  gets  its  food  there.  There  are  two  ways 
to  control  these  beetles.  One  may  jar  or  shake  them  off  from  young 


—51— 

trees  in  the  early  morning  when  sluggish,  letting  them  drop  in  a 
tared  or  oiled  surface,  or  they  may  be  poisoned  with  a  spray  of 
arsenate  of  lead,  8  Ibs.  to  200  gals,  of  water,  or  \y2  Ibs.  of  paris 
green  to  200  gals,  of  water. 

The  beetles  occasionally  do  serious  damage  to  melon  vines. 


Work  of  Diabrotica  sorer  on  orange  leaves. 

The  Coddling  Moth 

(Carpocapsa  pomonella) 

This  the  most  troublesome  pest  of  the  apple,  lives  in  the  form 
of  larva,  or  pupa,  during  the  winter,  in  the  ground  or  in  any  shel- 
tered place  available,  and  on  the  arrival  of  spring,  assumes  the  form 
of  the  adult  moth  and  begins  laying  eggs,  mostly  on.  the  upper  sides 
of  the  largest  of  the  new  leaves.  The  eggs  are  flat,  transparent, 
and  about  the  size  of  a  pinhead. 


—52— 

The  trees  are  now  beginning  to  blossom  and  as  the  larva  mostly 
enter  the  fruit  through  the  blossom  end,  the  poison  spray  is  used, 
applied  from  above  to  fill  the  cup  in  the  blossom  end  or  calyx  before 
it  closes,  as  it  will  do  when  the  fruit  is  well  set.  As  the  bloom  is 
often  not  even,  this  spray  may  have  to  be  repeated  to  poison  all  the 
cups,  and  even  a  third  spraying  may  be  necessary.  As  the  eggs 
begin  to  hatch,  spray  again  to  kill  all  the  worms  possible,  as  some 
will  enter  the  fruit  at  the  side,  not  through  the  calyx,  and  this  spray 
may  be  repeated  in  three  weeks,  and  even  a  third  time  with  profit. 
These  sprayings  should  wet  the  whole  tree  thoroughly  with  a  very 
fine  spray,  but  be  stopped  long  before  dripping  begins,  as  if  too  much 
is  used  the  liquid  runs  together,  is  not  so  effective,  and  is  more 
liable  to  burn  the  foliage.  This  early  treatment  is  the  important 
one  as  one  worm  destroyed  now  prevents  the  breeding  of  one  or 
two  hundred  later.  This  should  get  about  all  the  worms  but  if  some 
escape  and  pupate  later,  forming  moths  to  deposit  eggs,  spray  again 
in  midsummer  when  these  eggs  are  hatching.  The  condition  of 
moths,  larva  and  eggs  are  best  watched  by  placing  cocoons  in  a 
screen  covered  box,  as  the  aggs  are  hard  to  find  on  the  leaves. 

The  best  spray  is  the  arsenate  of  lead,  as  it  adheres  to  the  leaves 
better  and  longer  and  is  less  liable  to  injure  the  foliage  than  paris 
green  spray. 

All  sorts  of  rubbish  in  which  the  cocoons  can  winter  should  be 
religiously  cleaned  up,  in  and  around  the  orchard,  and  places  in 
which  infested  apples  are  stored  should  be  made  tight  enough  to 
prevent  the  worms  escaping  to  breed  again  in  the  orchard.  Win- 
dows even  should  be  screened. 

Peach  Root-Borer 

(Sanninoidea  opalescens) 

This  is  a  very  injurious  insect  in  the  Santa  Clara  Valley,  and  of 
course  liable  to  be  brought  here  on  nursery  stock  at  any  time.  Stone 
fruit  trees  are  its  prey,  and  it  can  always  be  detected  by  the  mass  of 
gum  exuding  from  the  tree  near  the  base  where  it  is  working.  They, 
of  course,  injure  the  tree  in  proportion  to  their  numbers,  sometimes 
girdling  and  killing  it.  The  usual  method  of  treatment  is  to  dig 
out  the  worms,  probe  all  the  burrows  possible  with  a  wire,  and 
fill  them  with  coal  oil,  then  apply  a  thick  whitewash  made  by  slack- 
ing 16  Ibs.  of  lime  and  pouring  in  1  gallon  of  16°  Beaume  crude  oil 
while  doing  so. 

If  the  worms  are  very  numerous,  the  trees  are  likely  to  be  much 
injured  in  getting  them  out.  A  blacksmith's  hook-pointed  hoof  knife 


—53— 

is  a  good  digging  tool.  A  treatment  recommended  by  our  State  ex- 
periment station  is  to  dig  away  the  soil  about  the  roots  of  the  tree 
down  to  the  crown  and  fill  up  with  loose  soil,  then  pour  on  this  loose 
earth,  carbon  bisulphide  from  a  half  ounce  to  two  ounces,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  tree  and  number  of  worms,  and  at  once  throw  up  a 
mound  of  loose  earth  about  the  tree.  Wet  earth  will  retain  the  bi- 
sulphide gas  too  long,  to  the  injury  of  the  trees,  therefore  if  rain 
comes  within  twenty-four  hours,  take  away  the  mound  of  earth. 

The  Corn  Worm 

(Heliothus  armiger) 

This  very  common  pest  comes  from  eggs  deposited  by  the  moth 
on  the  corn  silk  almost  as  soon  as  it  appears,  and  the  resulting  larva 
crawls  to  the  young  ear  and  begins  its  work. 

The  remedies  are  to  poison  the  moth  with  molasses  mixed  with 
with  arsenate  of  lead  or  paris  green,  in  dishes  fastened  about  the 
heighth  of  corn  ears,  or  better  yet,  plant  an  early  crop  of  corn  which 
will  get  the  worms  before  the  main  crop  is  ready,  then  before  the 
larva  leave  the  ears  to  pupate  in  the  ground,  cut  this  crop  and  de- 
stroy it,  or  feed  it  green,  thus  saving  the  later  crop. 


Fuller's  Rose  Beetle    (Aramigus  fulleri) 

Fuller's  Rose  Beetle 

(Aramigus  fulleri) 

This  is  a  grayish  brown  bettle  somewhat  more  than  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  long.  It  tapers  toward  the  head  and  has  a  short  snout. 
They  can  be  found  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  of  trees  or  the 
forks  of  the  branches,  or  clinging  to  a  twig.  They  feed  mostly  at 
night,  keeping  quiet  and  much  in  the  dark  during  the  day.  They 
are  very  injurious  to  strawberry  plants,  and  new  stock  must  be 
obtained  frequently  from  uninfested  districts  to  raise  them  profit- 
ably here.  No  plants  for  new  beds  should  be  taken  from  beds  in 


—54— 

this  county  which  have  not  been   renewed  within  one  year  with 
plants  from  an  immune  district,  some  place  where  severe  frosts  keep 
out  this  pest.    There  is  practically  no  remedy  for  infested  plants. 
The  beetles  work  on  young  orange  trees  also,  and  especially  on 


Young  orange  foliage,  showing  work  of  Fuller's  Rose  Beetle. 

starting  buds  of  nursery  stock,  where  they  will  make  tatters  of  the 
new  leaves  and  destroy  the  tender  growth.  The  larva  feed  on  tree 
and  plant  roots  in  the  ground,  doing  much  damage.  The  beetles 
can  be  kept  out  of  the  trees  by  bands  of  tanglefoot  or  cotton  bat- 
ting placed  around  the  trunks. 


—55— 


Eel  Worm  (Nematode) 

Effect  on  root  and  much  enlarged  eggs 

at  different  stages,  found  in  roots. 


Potato  Eel  Worm  (Heterodera  radicicola) 

The  Eel  Worm 

(Heterodera  radicicola) 

These,  and  allied  Nematode  worms,  are  doing  much  more  damage 
in  the  coast  and  mountain  states  than  most  growers  are  aware  of. 
The  fact  that  they  seldom  or  never  kill  a  tree  or  actually  destroy 
a  potato  is  probably  largely  responsible  for  this.  The  insect  is  a 
microscopic  worm  which  lives  about  ^  to  ^4  of  an  inch  beneath 
the  surface  in  plant  roots  of  all  kinds.  We  find  its  work  in  the 
roots  of  all  kinds  of  garden  plants,  citrus  and  deciduous  trees,  and 
especially  potatoes.  These  last  show  it  by  warts  appearing  all  over 
the  tubers,  the  skin  even  on  these  warts,  not  being  much  roughened, 
and  on  cutting  the  potato,  dark  specks  will  show  just  under  the 
skin.  The  infested  tree  and  plant  roots  are  much  misshapen  by 
warts  or  swollen  to  shapeless  masses,  according  to  how  badly  they 


—56— 

are  infested.  In  plants  the  vitality  is  so  lowered  that  their  cultiva- 
tion is  profitless,  and  hairy  root  on  deciduous  trees  and  chlorosis 
of  the  citrus  trees  are  attributed  to  its  influence.  The  infestation 
can  be  located  with  certainty  only  by  examining  the  roots,  but 
when  found  to  any  serious  extent  it  cannot  be  mistaken.  No 


Nematode  galls  on  cucumber  root. 


remedy  is  known  for  it,  and  we  can  only  be  careful  not  to  plant 
infested  potatoes  or  trees,  or  use  infested  land  for  trees  or  plants 
liable  to  it.  Infested  land  can  be  used  for  grain,  and  if  beets  are 
planted  in  it  and  pulled  and  destroyed  when  half  grown,  before  the 
mature  worms  escape  into  the  soil,  its  condition  is  said  to  be  much 
improved. 


—57— 

Potato  Worm  (Potato  Moth,  Tuber  Moth) 

(Phthorimaea  operculella) 

This  is  a  serious  pest,  perhaps  the  most  serious  pest  of  the  potato. 
It  is  reported  all  over  California  south  of  Sacramento,  and  though 
known  in  the  middle  west,  does  not  seem  to  be  prevalent  in  states 
bordering  on  ours. 


Cross-section  of  potato  showing  tunnels  just  under  the  skin  made  by  tne 
Tuber  moth  (Phthorimaea  operculella).     This  is  but  a  mild  infestation. 

The  worms  infest  not  only  potatoes,  but  other  plants  of  that 
family,  tobacco,  "sodom  apple,"  and  nightshade. 

The  moth  is  grayish  brown  in  color,  about  one-third  of  an  inch 


—58— 

long,  with  well  fringed  wings.  She  deposits  very  small  pearly  white 
eggs,  on  the  tubers  when  exposed,  either  before  or  after  digging, 
or  when  stored  in  the  bins  or  sacks,  the  larva  entering  about 
the  eyes  or  in  wounds.  They  also  hatch  and  enter  the  growing 
stalks  at  the  base  of  the  leaves.  The  larva  are  about  one- 
twenty-fifth  of  an  inch  long,  white,  transparent,  with  black  heads, 
and  they  grow  to  the  length  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch,  when  their 
heads  and  adjoining  parts  of  the  body  are  brown,  shading  towards 
the  rear  to  cloudy  white  or  pink.  When  hatched,  the  worm  at  once 
enters  the  potato  and  lives  there  just  under  the  skin  as  a  rule,  but 
also  boring  through  any  part  of  it,  for  about  six  weeks,  when  it 
comes  out  to  pupate,  at  the  mouth  of  the  burrow,  in  a  skin  depres- 
sion, or  any  sheltered  place  in  the  vicinity.  Often  they  lodge  in  the 
sacking  in  which  potatoes  are  stored,  and  the  moth  appears  in  two 
or  three  weeks.  If  the  eggs  are  layed  on  the  stalks  of  growing 
plants,  the  larva  bore  into  the  stalk  and  work  down  just  under  the 
skin  into  the  ground,  where  they  leave  the  stalk  and  enter  the  tubers, 
sometimes  working  some  distance  through  the  soil  to  find  them. 
The  affected  stalks  show  the  burrow  plainly  under  the  skin,  as  its 
contents  are  nearly  black,  and  the  stalk  soon  wilts. 

In  an  infested  field,  these  wilting  stalks  should  be  looked  for  and 
cut  out  and  burned  or  submerged  in  water  as  soon  as  possible,  as 
the  worms  may  thus  be  prevented  from  entering  the  tubers.  All 
growing  potatoes  should  be  kept  well  covered  with  soil  by  hilling 
up  well,  which  will  require  rows  to  be  forty  inches  apart,  and  the 
land  should  not  be  cloddy  or  opened  by  cracks  to  allow  the  moths 
to  get  to  the  tubers  and  deposit  eggs  on  them.  No  potatoes  should 
be  left  in  the  field,  especially  at  night,  unless  in  tightly  tied  sacks, 
and  then  the  same  sacks  should  not  be  used  for  storing  them,  as  the 
moths  are  sure  to  deposit  eggs  on  them  if  any  are  about.  The 
tubers  should  not  be  covered  with  green  vines  as  the  vines  are  very 
apt  to  contain  worms,  and  it  is  often  best  to  cut  and  destroy  vines 
before  digging  the  tubers.  After  digging,  the  tops  and  weeds, 
especially  nightshade,  should  be  at  once  cleaned  off  the  land  and 
destroyed.  Weeds  and  nightshade  on  adjoining  land  should  also 
be  destroyed. 

When  the  potatoes  are  to  be  stored,  if  their  infestation  is  sus- 
pected, soak  them  for  36  hours  in  as  cold  water  as  is  obtainable. 
This  thoroughly  destroys  the  worms  and  will  not  injure  the  po- 
tatoes if  the  water  is  below  60°. 

If  the  worm  shows  after  the  potatoes  are  stored,  make  the  storage 


—59— 

room  tight  and  place  on  the  tubers  a  dish  containing  \y2  to  2  Ibs. 
of  carbon  bisulphide  for  each  1000  cubic  feet  of  space  enclosed,  and 
repeat  the  dose  as  often  as  moths  appear,  usually  four  or  five  times 
will  not  be  too  much  to  exterminate  them.  The  bisulphide  gas  will 
penetrate  the  sacks  and  save  the  crop  if  the  bin  is  tight.  The  gas  is 
explosive ;  keep  fire  away  from  it. 

Infested  potatoes  should  never  be  used  for  seed,  nor  infested 
land  used  again  for  potatoes  the  next  year.  Waste  potatoes  should 
be  burned,  not  buried,  and  if  fed  to  hogs,  cooked  or  soaked  well 
first. 


Alfalfa  Weevil  (Phytonomus  posticus)  Adult. 
Six  times  actual  size. 

Alfalfa  Weevil 

(Phytonomus  posticus) 

This  pest,  which  we  have  so  far  succeeded  in  keeping  out  of  Cali- 
fornia, is  a  very  serious  menace  to  the  alfalfa  grower  as  evidenced 
by  its  work  in  Utah,  Idaho  and  Wyoming,  where  they  often  ruin 
the  first  two  crops  and  seriously  injure  the  third. 

The  insect  is  one  of  the  snout  beetles,  when  mature  is  from  one- 
eighth  to  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  long,  brown,  flecked  with  gray 
or  white ;  growing  older,  it  becomes  darker  until  almost  black,  still 
with  the  gray  mottling.  They  are  very  active  and  ready  to  fly, 
which  they  can  do  for  long  distances. 

The  larva  when  hatched  is  very  small,  white  and  footless,  later 
they  become  green,  are  always  curled  up,  and  when  they  pupate, 
form  a  spherical  cocoon  of  coarse  fibers,  from  which  the  adult 
emerges.  In  May  they  are  in  all  stages  of  development  on  the 
plants,  and  the  adults  will  live  a  year.  The  adult  shows  up  on  the 
first  cutting  of  alfalfa  in  the  spring  and  soon  begins  depositing  eggs 
in  the  stems  of  the  plant  to  the  number  of  two  or  three  hundred. 
The  larva  soon  hatch  out,  very  small  at  first,  getting  to  work  at 
once  on  the  plants  and  leaves.  As  summer  arrives,  they  hibernate 
under  alfalfa,  weeds,  rubbish  of  all  kinds,  pupate  in  their  cocoons, 


—60— 

and  hatch  in  ten  or  twelve  days.  From  about  June  they  are  all  in 
the  adult  stage,  very  active  at  first,  and  easily  carried  by  the  wind, 
and  after  hibernating,  by  the  transportation  of  hay,  seed  or  almost 
anything  in  which  they  can  hide. 


Alfalfa  Weevil  (Phytonomus  posticus) 

Larvae  and  eggs  on  plant. 

and  larva  enlarged 

No  means  are  known  to  check  them  when  once  established,  and 
our  only  hope  to  escape  them  is  to  detect  them  at  once  when  they 
arrive  and  kill  them,  infested  plant  and  all,  by  the  best  means 
available.  The  State  Horticultural  Commissioner  advocates  piling 
straw  on  them  and  burning  them.  If  you  find  anything  suspicious, 
notify  the  State  office  at  once,  and  if  the  area  is  small,  apply  the 
fire  thoroughly. 


—61— 

Grape  Phylloxera 
(Phylloxera  vastatrix) 

This  is  the  grape  pest  feared  above  all  others,  not  only  in  Cali- 
fornia, but  everywhere  that  the  vine  is  much  cultivated.  It  is  a 
plant  louse,  but  it  lives  and  works  in  several  forms,  sometimes  on 
the  vine  above  ground,  but  mostly  on  the  root,  and  it  requires  two 
years  to  complete  its  life  cycle.  There  is  one  form  having  wings  to 
aid  in  spreading  the  infestation,  which,  however,  is  mostly  done 
through  shipping  and  planting  infested  nursery  stock.  Grape  boxes 
may  carry  it  at  picking  season,  also  anything  coming  in  contact 
with  the  vine,  soil,  root  or  fruit.  The  injury  done  by  this  pest  is 
mostly  on  the  roots,  which  show  small  swellings,  decay  and  death, 
and  then  of  course  the  whole  vine  dies  sooner  or  later,  but  there  is 
much  difference  in  the  resistance  of  vines  to  the  insect. 

Some  of  our  native  vines  are  immune  to  the  Phylloxera,  and  this 
is  likely  to  save  our  grape  industry,  for  if  the  improved  varieties 
are  grafted  on  to  these  immune  roots,  we  need  fear  the  pest  but 
little,  and  eventually  we  hope  that  a  strain  of  vines  practically  im- 
mune will  be  developed. 

The  indications  of  phylloxera  are  a  decreased  growth  of  the  leaves, 
small  bunches  of  grapes  very  lacking  in  sugar,  yellow  coloring  and 
dropping  of  the  leaves.  The  infested  vines  must  be  dug  up,  the 
land  used  for  other  crops  for  two  or  three  years,  and  when  replanted, 
resistant  vines  used. 

A  strict  quarantine  should  be  maintained  against  any  infested  dis- 
trict and  all  incoming  nursery  vines  from  anywhere  should  be  care- 
fully inspected  to  prevent  new  infestations  of  this  pest. 

The  Cankerworm 

(Alsophila  pometaria) 

This  pest,  also  known  as  the  measuring  worm,  is  the  larva  of 
a  wingless  moth  which  crawls  up  the  tree  in  the  fall  and  deposits 
about  the  twigs  her  masses  of  eggs  which  hatch  in  the  spring  and 
feed  on  the  new  leaves  just  putting  out,  sometimes  defoliating  the 
tree  to  its  injury  for  more  than  a  year. 

Tree  tanglefoot,  the  sticky  coating  of  flypaper  put  about  the  trunk, 
will  prevent  the  moths  climbing  the  tree,  if  watched  and  kept  fresh 
and  sticky.  It  should  be  kept  on  from  Nov.  1st  to  Jan.  15th. 


—62— 


June  Bug  (Lachnosterna  sp.) 

June  Bug 

(Lachnosterna  sp.) 

The  larva  of  this  beetle  are  the  white  grubs  so  well  known  in 
our  gardens.  They  live  in  the  ground  about  two  years,  when 
after  a  season  of  pupation  in  the  spring,  they  assume  the  adult 
form  of  medium  sized  brown  beetles,  and  feed  on  the  leaves  of 
fruit  trees  and  similar  growth  for  a  short  time,  during  which  they 
deposit  their  eggs  in  the  soil  and  die.  Their  work  on  small  trees 
is  often  quite  injurious  while  they  last. 

Poisoning  the  foliage  with  arsenical  sprays  is  the  best  means  of 
combating  them. 


X    '**> 


Wire-worms,  larva  and  adult. 

Wire  Worms 
(Elateridae) 

These  long,  slim,  brown,  hard  shelled  worms,  found  a  few  inches 
below  the  surface  in  grass  or  grain  land,  are  not  usually  very 
injurious,  but  when  the  land  is  used  for  trees  or  some  new  crop, 
and  the  old  food  plants  are  gone,  they  may  do  much  harm.  Young 
fruit  trees,  set  in  old  grain  fields,  are  sometimes  attacked  by  them 
just  below  the  surface  and  much  injured,  and  even  girdled  and 


—63— 

killed.  They  also  attack  walnuts  planted  in  nurseries,  penetrating 
the  shell  and  eating  out  the  meat  of  the  seed  nut,  also  young  beet 
plants  and  newly  planted  beans.  The  larva  lives  in  the  ground 
from  one  to  three  years  before  assuming  the  adult  form,  which  is 
the  click  beetle,  which  throws  itself  sharply  into  the  air  when  laid 
on  its  back. 

In  cases  of  injury  to  trees,  the  worms  might  be  diverted  from  their 
work  by  growing  grain  or  other  favorite  food  between  the  rows  to 
furnish  them  their  usual  form  of  food,  and  green  alfalfa  might  be 
placed  about  the  trees  to  temporarily  divert  them. 


Plat  Headed  Borer  (Chrysobothris  femorata) 

The  Flat-headed  Borer 

(Chrysobothris  femorata) 

These  borers  infest  nearly  all  deciduous  trees,  and  also  berry 
canes,  doing  more  or  less  damage.  Protecting  the  parts  attacked, 
the  trunk  or  main  stalk,  from  sunburn,  is  a  preventive  measure, 
as  they  always  seek  sunburned  or  injured  spots.  Shade  young 
trees  with  two  shakes  stuck  in  the  ground  side  by  side,  and  white- 
wash older  trees,  putting  some  sulphur  and  soap  in  the  whitewash. 
If  already  in  the  trees,  dig  out  the  dead  bark  and  seal  up  with 
grafting  wax.  Cut  all  affected  berry  canes  and  cut  and  burn  old 
ones  as  soon  as  done  bearing.  This  will  help  also  to  check  the 
white  rose  scale  if  you  have  any  of  it. 

Bean  and  Pea  Weevils 

(Bruchus  sp.) 

When  the  seed  peas  or  beans  have  "bugs"  in  them,  or  the  holes 
where  bugs  have  been,  place  them  before  planting  in  a  tight  box 
(very  tight)  and  set  on  top  of  the  seed  a  shallow  dish  containing 
carbon  bisulphide,  1  oz.  to  each  10  cubic  feet  of  space  in  the  box, 


and  leave  it  for  six  hours.  This  drug  and  its  gas  are  explosive,  so 
keep  fire  away.  It  will  form  gas  which  will  kill  the  weevils,  but 
the  liquid  should  not  touch  the  seed.  If  the  land  grew  "buggy" 
peas  last  year  raise  a  few  very  early  peas  first  to  be  destroyed 
when  nearly  mature  and  the  weevils  get  onto  them. 

Cabbage  Aphis 

(Aphis  brassicae) 

This  aphis  or  plant  louse  is  often  very  bad  on  cabbages,  but  a 
spray  of  tobacco  extract  (1  part  of  tobacco  extract  to  50  of  water) 
will  control  it  well.  The  State  Insectary  will  send  you  a  parasite 
for  it  if  application  is  made.  Before  planting,  dip  all  young  cab- 
bage plants  in  a  solution  of  whale  oil  soap,  1  Ib.  to  5  gallons  of 
water. 


Norfolk  Pine  Scale  (Eriococcus  araucariae) 

Norfolk  Island  Pine  Scale 

(Errococcus  araucariae) 

This  is  a  pure  white  oval  scale,  much  rounded  over  the  top  and 
located  at  the  base  of  and  on  the  spines  or  leaves  of  the  Norfolk 
island  pine.  On  crushing,  they  yield  a  yellowish,  red  fluid,  and 
seem  to  resist  oil  and  caustic  sprays ;  but  good  results  are  reported 
from  the  use  of  resin  wash  which  seems  to  kill  them. 


—65— 


Pear  and  Cherry-slug  (E.  cerase)     a-larva,    b-adult. 

Pear  and  Cherry  Slug 

These  insects  do  considerable  damage  to  the  foliage  of  pear 
and  quince  trees,  eating  out  the  leaf  pulp  and  leaving  only  a  skele- 
ton of  parts  of  the  leaf  attacked.  Finely  powdered  lime  or  road 
dust,  sifted  on  to  the  trees,  easily  control  it.  Dry  soil  shoveled 
over  the  trees  from  between  the  rows,  often  answers  as  well  as 
anything. 

The  Cabbage  Worm 

(Pontia  rapae) 

In  gardens,  spray  for  this  and  similar  worms,  with  tobacco  extract 
(1  to  50).  The  parasite  Teromalus  puparium  is  said  to  be  very 
efficient  for  these  worms,  and  a  colony  of  them  from  the  State 
Insectary  would  well  repay  a  trial. 

The  Tent  Caterpillar 

(Malacosoma  disstria) 

Wherever  deciduous  fruit  trees  grow  these  insects  are  found  at 
times.  They  live  in  web  nests,  often  very  large  and  enclosing 
several  branches,  and  eat  the  leaves  on  the  part  of  the  tree  nearest 
them,  often  completely  defoliating  it. 

The  eggs  are  laid  by  a  moth  in  summer,  in  clusters  around  the 
outer  twigs  of  the  tree,  but  do  not  hatch  until  the  following  spring, 
and  when  the  trees  are  pruned  in  the  winter  they  should  be  looked 
for,  cut  off,  and  all  prunings  burned.  Any  nests  of  the  worms 
should  also  be  cut  out  or  burned  on  the  tree  with  a  torch. 

The  California  Tussock  Moth 

(Hemerocampa  vetusta) 

This  pest,  like  the  tent  caterpillar,  is  hatched  in  the  spring  from 
an  egg  layed  in  the  June  before,  and  it  attacks  both  leaves  and 
fruit.  The  moth  is  practically  wingless,  and  can  be  kept  from 
climbing  the  trees  by  the  tanglefoot  bands.  When  beginning  to 
feed,  the  worms  can  be  jarred  from  the  trees  and  prevented  from 


—66- 


Tussock  Moth  (H.  vetusta)  a-f  emale  moth,  b-young  catapillar,  c-f  emale  pupa, 
d-male  pupa,  e-larva  on  leaf,  f-male  moth. 

crawling  up  again  by  a  steep  mound  of  loose  earth  built  around 
the  foot  of  the  tree.  The  tanglefoot  will  come  in  well  here,  too. 
These  worms  are  intermittent  in  their  infestations,  indicating  that 
some  parasite  cleans  them  up  when  it  finds  them. 

False  Chinch-bugs 

(Nysius  augustatus) 

Squash-bugs 

(Anarsa  tristis) 

Harlequin  Cabbage-bugs 

(Murgantia  histrionic  a) 

These  are  three  insects  which  work  in  a  very  similar  manner 
and  all  have  the  peculiarity,  unlike  others  of  their  class,  of  emit- 
ting a  disagreeable  odor  when  crushed.  They  all  have  a  sharp 
proboscis  by  which  they  suck  the  juices  from  the  plants.  This 
beak  can  be  seen  on  turning  the  bug  onto  its  back.  They  do  not 
have  a  larval  or  grub  form,  the  young  being  of  similar  form  to 
the  adult/ but  without  wings,  and  of  course,  smaller.  They  attack 
all  varieties  of  fruits  and  vegetables. 

The  False  Chinch-bugs  often  seriously  injure  young  orange  trees, 
and  the  others  are  a  bad  strawberry  pest.  The  young  can  be  killed 
with  kerosene  emulsion.  Keep  all  weeds  and  rubbish  cleaned  up 
on  your  land  as  the  adults  sleep  in  this  material  over  winter. 


—67— 

Some  such  piles  of  rubbish  or  straw  might  be  left  in  which  they 
would  collect,  then  burn  them.  When  they  show  up  in  the  spring, 
start  some  extra  crop  which  they  like.  When  they  collect  on  that, 
destroy  it  and  the  bugs.  They  are  practically  immune  to  poisons 
as  they  do  not  feed  on  the  surface  of  the  plant. 


M^i^-.^tf^p 

.< 


Cut-worm  Moth  (Noctuidae  sp.) 

Cut  Worms 

(Noctuidae  sp.) 

These  troublesome  insects  are  of  various  species,  but  all  have 
similar  habits,  which  are  pretty  well  known  everywhere. 

They  remain  in  the  ground  just  beneath  the  surface  during  the 
day,  coming  out  at  night  to  cut  our  growing  plants  near  the  ground, 
to  crawl  up  the  trees  and  feed  on  the  leaves,  and  the  allied  species, 
known  as  the  Army  Worm,  goes  in  droves  across  the  country,  de- 
vouring everything  in  its  path. ' 

The  adult  forms  of  all  these  worms  are  night  flying  moths,  and 
these  may  be  caught  to  some  extent,  with  lantern  traps ;  a  dish  on 
top  of  a  stake  having  coal  oil  or  some  sticky  fluid  in  the  bottom 
and  a  light  just  above  it  in  the  center,  but  the  main  dependence 
must  be  placed  in  poisons  for  the  worms  themselves. 

For  garden  plants,  like  tomatoes,  cabbages,  potatoes,  etc.,  put 
at  the  base  of  each  plant  a  tablespoonful  of  brain  into  which  paris- 
green  has  been  thoroughly  mixed  in  the  proportion  of  1  to  50, 
and  then  wet  until  it  will  stick  together,  with  slightly  sweetened 
water.  The  worms  like  this  better  than  the  plant.  Lay  a  board 
12  inches  wide  on  the  ground  in  the  garden  and  leave  it  over 
night.  In  the  morning  you  will  find  many  worms  under  it  which 
can  easily  be  killed.  This  is  an  excellent  trap  for  them. 

A  band  of  tree  tanglefoot  or  cotton  batting  about  the  tree  trunks 
will  keep  down  those  which  climb  trees. 

The  Army  Worm  is  a  different  matter.  On  first  discovering 
them,  pile  inflammable  material  on  them  and  burn  it,  if  the  army 
is  not  too  large.  If  they  have  begun  to  move,  a  furrow  plowed 
across  their  course  and  kept  constantly  wet  with  kerosene  has 


—68— 

been  used  with  some  success  if  persisted  in.  But  they  generally 
march  with  little  check  until  they  are  ready  to  pupate.  How- 
ever, parasites  and  disease  find  them,  and  their  numbers  are  de- 
creased so  that  the  second  year  seldom  produces  them  in  alarming 
numbers. 


The  native  California  Lady-bird  (Hippodamia  convergens) 
Larvae  and  bursting  pupa. 

Native  California  Lady-birds 

These  native  Lady-birds  are  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the 
fruit  and  plant  grower  as  they  are  constantly  preying  on  the  various 
young  scales,  mealy  bug,  and  especially  the  aphis.  Every  one 
should  learn  to  recognize  the  larva  and  pupa,  as  well  as  the  adult 
beetles  and  protect  and  preserve  them  all  as  much  as  possible. 
The  larva  are  so  peculiar  in  appearance  that  once  known  they 
willl  never  be  mistaken  for  anything  else.  They  are  as  repulsive 
and  ferocious  looking  as  the  adult  is  the  opposite.  They  reach  a 
length  of  y%  of  an  inch  and  vary  from  brown  to  black  in  color, 
some  having  bright  red  and  yellow  markings.  They  are  nearly 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide  in  the  middle  and  taper  nearly  to  a  point 
at  each  end.  They  bristle  all  over,  especially  about  the  head, 
with  short,  black,  coarse  hairs.  Some  other  Lady-birds,  equally 
beneficial  but  not  so  numerous,  have  larva  covered  with  tangled 
threads  of  pure  white.  Many  of  the  native  species  are  collected 
in  the  mountains,  where  they  go  to  hibernate  in  the  winter  time; 
and  are  preserved  in  cold  storage  at  the  State  Insectary  to  be 
distributed  at  the  proper  season  to  melon  growers  and  others  who 
request  them  for  the  control  of  aphis,  and  while  no  other  species 


have  accomplished  the  spectacular  performance  of  the  Australian 
variety  (Novius  cardinalis),  which  saved  the  citrus  industry  of 
California  some  years  ago  from  the  White  Scale,  yet  in  their  quiet 
way  perhaps  they  are  benefitting  the  growers  of  the  State  just 
as  much  and  we  must  protect  them  in  every  possible  way. 


—70— 


FUNGUS  DISEASES 


Gum  Disease  of  Citrus  Trees  and  Treatment 

First  we  find  there  are  two  distinct  forms  of  this  disease.     The 
first  and  most  prevalent  is  that  in  which  the  gum  oozes  from  under 


Citrus  Gum  Disease;  showing  appearance  of  trunk  affected. 

the  bark  at,  or  just  above,  the  ground.  It  first  appears  like  a  thick, 
syrupy  matter,  crystallizing  after  being  exposed  to  the  air.  The 
first  symptoms  are  a  slight  swelling  of  the  outer  bark,  caused  by 
the  congestion  of  tlje  sap,  which  must  either  break  out  or  be  forced 


—71— 

between  the  outer  bark  and  cambium  layer  or  inner  bark.  When 
this  occurs,  the  cambium  is  destroyed  as  far  as  the  congested  sap 
extends,  but  fortunately  the  bark  bursts  under  the  pressure  before 
the  poisous  syrupy  matter  extends  very  far  about  the  body  of  the 
tree.  This  reduces  the  pressure  until  the  affected  parts  dry  up, 
then  if  the  cause  is  not  removed,  the  same  trouble  will  occur  to 
the  heretofore  unaffected  parts,  and  eventually  girdle  and  destroy 
the  tree. 

Causes  of  this  form  of  Gum  Disease :  Extreme  moisture  or 
drouth,  clay  or  hard  pan  which  hold  up  an  excess  of  water,  sand 
or  gravel  sub-soil,  especially  if  underlayed  with  clay  or  hard  pan. 
All  of  these  conditions  will  cause  this  form  of  gum  disease. 

Treatment — If  possible  never  allow  the  soil  to  get  too  wet  or 
too  dry.  If  underlayed  with  clay  or  hard  pan,  blast  through  and 
loosen  it  up  if  it  is  possible.  Where  sand  and  gravel  exist  I  have 
known  good  results  from  digging  one  or  more  trenches,  2^  feet 
deep  between  the  rows,  and  rilling  with  manure  and  trash,  to 
serve  as  a  drain  and  nourish  small  roots.  In  addition  to  the  above, 
remove  the  earth  from  about  the  trunk  so  as  to  leave  the  top 
of  the  large  roots  exposed,  then  use  a  horseshoer's  knife  with  a 
turn  at  the  end  of  the  blade.  With  this  a  groove  can  be  cut  through 
the  bark  from  the  roots  to  the  large  branches.  If  a  small  tree  one 
groove  is  plenty,  if  a  large  tree  cut  grooves  about  two  inches  apart, 
then  paint  all  of  the  body  with  pure  neats  foot  oil.  If  a  very  bad 
case  I  would  recommend  cutting  back  the  branches  quite  severely. 

Trees  budded  on  the  seed  stalk  not  less  than  six  inches  above 
the  ground  are  usually  less  liable  to  this  disease  than  those  budded 
lower,  and  the  higher  the  bud  the  better,  as  the  seedling  wood 
is  much  less  liable  to  gum  disease  than  the  bud,  as  a  rule.  Care 
should  be  taken,  in  any  case,  not  to  plant  the  tree  too  deep.  Some 
advocate  planting  so  shallow  that  the  crown  roots  are  right  at 
the  surface. 

Scaly  Bark  of  Citrus  Trees 

This  disease  generally  appears  first  on  the  large  branches  near 
the  body  of  the  tree,  but  in  severe  cases  the  whole  body  is  affected. 
It  first  appears  like  small  warty  eruptions.  Small  quantities  of 
gum  ooze  from  the  warts.  This  dries  up  and  the  eruptions  ap- 
parently heal,  but  are  immediately  followed  by  others  which  spread 
quite  rapidly,  causing  the  outer  bark  to  crack  and  scale  up,  hence 
the  name  "Scaly  Bark."  This  disease  is  considered  by  many  to  be 
contagious. 


—72— 

Treatment — If  a  very  bad  case,  I  would  advise  the  removal  of 
the  limb  or  branch,  but  ordinarily  this  disease  can  be  cured  by 
scraping  off  all  of  the  rough,  scabby  bark,  then  treating  with  a 
strong  solution  of  caustic  potash,  one  pound  dissolved  in  six  gal- 
lons of  water.  Spray  or  brush  the  affected  parts  thoroughly  with 
this  solution  three  or  four  times  during  the  year.  I  have  also 
seen  good  results  from  the  use  of  coal  tar  and  carbolic  solutions 
used  in  place  of  the  caustic  potash. 

Chlorosis 

(Lack  of  Nutrition) 

In  this  trouble  the  leaves  become  yellow  and  pale,  and  the 
mottled  appearance  of  the  leaves  often  goes  with  it,  though  the 
latter  trouble  alone  seems  more  easily  remedied  than  the  first,  and 
when  affecting  young  leaves  and  grafts  will  usually  disappear  in 
a  short  time  if  proper  care  is  given  the  tree. 

The  sub-soil  when  very  light  or  covered  by  a  hard  pan  seems 
often  to  cause  Chlorosis,  and  sometimes  the  Nematode  Worm 
(similar  to  the  potato  eel  worm)  is  blamed  as  the  cause.  Each 
case  should  be  carefully  investigated,  the  cause  found  and  cor- 
rected. It  is  simply  lack  of  proper  nourishment  in  the  tree. 

Damping  Off  of  Citrus  Seedlings 

(Rhizoctonia  fusarium) 

This  is  the  shrinkage  and  decay  of  the  stalk  of  citrus  seed-bed 
stock  and  causes  much  loss  every  year.  It  is  caused  by  an  over  wet 
soil.  Seed  beds  should  have  one  inch  of  clean  sand  on  top  with 
heavier  soil  beneath,  and  then  only  sufficient  water  used  to  give 
the  plants  good  growth.  Beginners  should  dig  into  the  soil  fre- 
quently to  ascertain  its  moisture,  and  not  water  whenever  the  top 
sand  gets  dry. 

If  the  "damping  off"  begins,  stop  watering  at  once  and  allow 
the  bed  to  get  as  dry  as  the  plants  will  stand.  Then  with  a  long 
toothed  rake  loosen  the  surface  thoroughly,  raking  and  cross- 
raking,  even  if  some  plants  are  disturbed  and  killed.  This  breaks 
up  and  destroys  the  fungus  growths  in  the  soil  and  will  save  many 
of  the  plants  not  yet  attacked, 

Frost  Protection 

With  the  citrus  grower  this  is  a  very  live  and  important  sub- 
ject, as  very  few  places  in  Southern  California  escape  an  occasional 


—73— 

frost.  The  best  appliances  for  this  work  are  the  sheet  iron  fire 
pots  for  burning  petroleum,  of  which  there  are  several  kinds,  each 
having  its  advocates  and  admirers. 

The  pots  should  be  filled  "as  directed,"  and  placed  in  the  grove 
when  cold  spells  are  to  be  expected,  usually  one  to  a  tree,  set, 
however,  in  the  open  space  between  the  trees,  and  an  extra  row 
along  the  east  and  north  sides  of  the  grove,  and  as  a  general  rule, 
when  the  temperature  at  2:00  a.  m.  drops  to  26°,  go  through  and 
light  them  as  quickly  as  possible.  This  method  has  saved  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  dollars  to  the  orange  growers  in  California. 

Wither  Tip 

(Colletotrichum  gloeosporioides) 

The  effects  of  this  disease,  in  a  general  way,  consists  in  a  spot- 
ting of  the  fruit  and  leaves  and  killing  back  of  the  twigs,  and  an 
attack  upon  the  young  newly  formed  fruit  causing  it  to  drop. 
It  has  increased  considerably  in  the  last  4  or  5  years,  and  is,  no 
doubt,  to  some  extent  blamed  for  dying  tops  due  to  some  other 
trouble.  The  distinguishing  mark  of  the  true  wither  tip  is  the 
appearance  of  minute  black  spots  on  twigs  and  dead  portions  of 
leaves,  and  a  distinct  yellow  line  on  these  leaves  dividing  this 
dead  brown  leaf  surface  from  that  which  looks  green  and  healthy. 
Under  a  good  pocket  glass  these  leaf  spots  show  as  small  upright 
fungus  growths  all  over  the  surface.  The  disease  with  this  ap- 
pearance is  very  common,  showing  more  or  less  on  most  dead 
citrus  twigs,  and  the  minute  spotting  of  lemons  is  often  "laid  to 
its  charge." 

Many  expert  pathologists  believe  that  the  disease  is  never  serious 
unless  the  trees  have  been  weakened  by  some  other  cause,  and 
the  work  of  Nematode  Worms  is  mentioned  as  one  of  the  causes. 
However,  others  think  it  more  serious,  but  spraying  with  Bor- 
deaux Mixture,  or  some  form  of  blue  vitriol  solution  is  about  the 
only  remedy  suggested  and  of  course  any  treatment  tending  tc 
promote  vigorous  vitality  in  the  tree  would  be  proper. 

Florida  Die  Back 

This  disease  begins  to  show  itself  in  little  blisters  or  swellings 
on  the  tender  twigs,  just  a  little  puff  on  the  twig  ^4  to  ^  of  an 
inch  long  and  not  at  all  discolored.  On  cutting  open,  these  blisters 
will  show  a  pocket  of  gum,  and  the  twig  soon  begins  to  wilt  and 
the  leaves  drop  off.  Also  often  some  very  large  dark  green  leaves 


—74— 

will  start  in  the  middle  of  the  tree,  giving  it  a  very  thrifty  look. 
A  brown,  corky  growth  soon  comes  on  the  affected  twigs,  looking 
like  a  fungus  growth  and  covering  a  large  part  of  the  surface. 
After  the  leaves  have  fallen,  a  large  number  of  extra  buds  start 
on  the  branch  still  living,  and  a  multitude  of  twigs  start  from 
them  forming  brushy  tufts  through  the  tree.  The  fruit  is  small 
and  pale  in  color,  and  has  an  insipid  sweetness,  with  no  acid 
qualities.  The  rind  shows  dark  brown  spots  from  which  radiate 
cracks  and  splits  in  the  fruit,  and  these  splits  often  run  in  every 
direction.  The  disease  seems  to  be  the  result  of  uneven  growth; 
too  much  manure  (nitrogenous  or  organic)  applied  after  the  vitality 
of  the  trees  has  been  much  reduced  or  when  growing  in  a  light 
soil,  or  the  tree  has  suffered  for  water  in  a  porous  soil  which  dries 
out  quickly,  the  irrigations  being  too  far  apart,  and  this  porous 
soil  may  lie  beneath  a  dark  heavy  surface  soil. 

The  remedy  is  to  keep  the  condition  of  the  tree  as  even  as  pos- 
sible by  fertilizing  and  irrigating  frequently  and  lightly. 


—75— 


REMEDIES   FOR  INSECTS  AND   DISEASE 


Fumigation 

Fumigation  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas  has  become  the  main 
reliance  of  the  citrus  fruit  grower  to  preserve  his  trees  from  the 
attacks  of  the  various  scale  pests,  and  although  the  cost  is  higher, 
probably  twice  that  of  spraying,  the  results  are  so  much  superior 
and  more  lasting  that  in  the  end  it  is  the  cheaper  method.  These 
superior  results  are  due  to  several  reasons :  First,  the  gas,  kept 
about  the  tree  for  some  time  by  the  enclosing  tent,  completely 
envelops  and  penetrates  every  part  of  it,  while  the  spray,  even 
with  the  best  kind  of  application,  fails  to  touch  all  parts  of  the 
tree  owing  to  the  thick  foliage,  which  on  the  citrus  trees  is  always 
present.  Even  with  defoliated  trees  it  is  difficult  to  reach  every 
part  with  spray,  and  it  is  seldom  done  in  practice.  We  have  yet 
to  find  any  insect  attacking  the  citrus  tree,  except  the  red  spiders 
and  similar  mites,  which  are  not  as  well,  or  better,  reached  by 
the  gas  than  by  any  spray  which  will  not  harm  the  tree,  though 
the  thrips,  owing  to  their  flying  abilities,  are  not  well  controlled 
by  fumigation,  and  the  cheaper  spray,  more  often  repeated,  has 
secured  the  best  results.  Another  point  in  favor  of  the  gas  treat- 
ment is  its  better  effect  on  the  tree  itself. 

All  growers  know  that  too  frequent  spraying  will  kill  many  of 
the  tender  twigs  and  lower  the  vitality  of  the  tree,  as  might  be 
expected  to  result  from  keeping  a  film  of  oily  or  soapy  material 
on  the  young  growth,  and  especially  on  the  leaves  where  are  located 
the  breathing  parts  of  the  plant.  One  of  the  principal  causes  of 
injury  from  the  Black  Scale,  Mealy  Bug,  and  White  Fly  is  the 
stopping  of  the  leaf  pores  by  the  honey  dew  secreted  by  these 
insects  and  the  accompanying  smut  growth,  and  this  condition  is 
not  materially  improved  if,  to  destroy  the  scale,  we  apply  another, 
perhaps  equally  harmful  coating,  to  the  foliage.  In  comparison 
with  this  checking  of  tree  growth  by  the  sprays,  we  have  only 
to  note  the  considerable  stimulation  of  growth  usually  shown  by 
the  trees  immediately  after  fumigation,  to  decide  which  benefits 
the  tree  most,  aside  from  the  help  derived  from  the  more  complete 
destruction  of  the  scale. 


—76— 


FIG'S  2-3-4— Successive  stages  in  placing  a  tent  over  a  tree  with  poles. 
FIG.  6-A  tented  tree,  showing  method  of  securing  the  Distance  around  the  bottom 

of  the  tent  by  means  of  a  tape  attached  to  an  iron  rod. 

FIG.  7— Dosing  a  tree.    FIG.  8— Removing  a  tent  from  one  tree  to  another  by  means  of  poles. 
(Bureau  of  Entomology,  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture.) 


77 

Of  course,  too  strong  a  dosage  of  gas  will  produce  injury  as 
well  as  too  severe  spraying,  and  judgment  is  required,  not  only 
to  get  a  dose  rightly  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  tree,  but  to 
properly  adjust  it  to  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  and  temperature. 

A  damp  atmosphere  makes  the  tree  more  susceptible  to  burning 
by  the  gas,  and  of  course  if  fog  or  rain  makes  the  tree  really  wet, 
the  fumigation  must  stop.  A  high  temperature  has  a  similar  effect, 
and  a  combination  of  a  hot  night  and  a  damp  atmosphere  is  very 
dangerous.  The  same  is  true  of  a  temperature  below  32°.  Fumi- 
gation can  be  done  safely  only  in  a  dim  light,  and  the  night's  work 
should  never  begin  in  bright  weather  sooner  than  sunset.  Very 
bad  burning  of  trees  has  often  resulted  from  starting  work  too 
early  in  the  evening  or  continuing  too  late  in  the  morning. 

We  can  not  account,  at  least  not  fully,  for  some  other  unex- 
pected results  in  fumigation  work,  and  we  are  obliged  to  confess 
that  we  do  not  fully  understand  this  chemical  process  and  its 
adaptation  to  our  needs  yet.  However,  we  know  enough  about  it 
to  make  decidedly  the  best  killing  of  scale  by  its  means,  and  with 
the  least  harmful  results  to  the  trees  of  any  process  we  have. 

How  to  Fumigate — First,  tents  must  be  provided  large  enough 
to  cover  the  largest  of  the  trees  to  be  treated.  Where  there  are 
several  sizes,  if  some  of  the  tents  are  large  enough  for  the  biggest 
trees,  smaller  ones  can  be  used  for  the  balance,  or  if  only  a  few 
trees  are  too  large  for  the  tents  at  hand,  these  may  be  covered 
by  using  two  or  more  tents,  lapping  the  edges  and  closing  the 
joints  as  well  as  possible.  Sometimes  three  or  four  tents  are 
applied  around  a  very  large  tree,  and  one  as  a  cap  over  the  top. 
The  joints  of  the  tents  in  such  cases,  will  of  course,  leak  gas  some, 
but  surprisingly  good  results  are  obtained  with  careful  work. 

The  tents  now  universally  used  in  this  County  are  simply  an 
eight  square  sheet  of  sufficient  size,  made  of  various  kinds  of  cloth, 
but  mostly  canvas,  from  8  oz.  to  10  oz.,  or  drill  of  about  6  oz.  in 
weight,  double  sewed,  and  with  two  rings  attached  by  pieces  of 
rope,  firmly  sewed  on  at  two  adjacent  corners,  by  which  the  tent 
is  drawn  over  the  trees. 

One  or  more  marks  are  painted  directly  across  the  canvas  on 
which  each  foot  in  length  is  shown  by  a  short  cross  mark,  each 
of  which  is  numbered  like  a  tape  line,  so  that  when  the  tent  is 
on  the  tree  this  mark  acts  as  a  measure,  showing  the  distance  over 
the  tree.  These  marks  are  made  with  very  heavy  lines  and  large 
figures  so  as  to  be  easily  read  at  night. 


—78— 


The  rings  are  slipped  onto  the  tops  of  two  poles,  from  16  to  20 
feet  long,  the  butts  of  which  are  placed  on  each  side  of  the  tree 
to  be  covered.  Two  ropes,  the  length  of  the  poles,  or  longer, 
are  attached  to  their  tops;  the  other  end  of  each  rope  is  held  by  a 
man  with  his  foot  on  the  butt  of  the  pole ;  the  men  pull  their 
ropes,  the  tops  of  the  poles  rise  bearing  the  front  edge  of  the 
tent,  which  is  carried  over  the  tree  and  the  length  of  the  pole 
beyond  it,  thus  covering  the  tree.  A  tape  measure  is  passed  around 
the  covered  tree,  giving  its  circumference ;  the  marks  on  the  canvas 
show  the  distance  over  the  top,  and  from  a  prepared  table  or  sched- 


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Dosage  Schedule  No.  A,  for  sodium  cyanid.     (U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture.) 

ule  of  dosage,  the  operator  can  see  at  a  glance  just  howr  much 
cyanide  to  use  for  each  tree  thus  measured.  This  is  the  latest 
improved  system  known  as  the  Woglum  System. 

The  "dose"  of  sulphuric  acid  is  diluted  with  water  and  placed 
in  a  deep  earthen  pot,  placed  under  the  tent  by  raising  one  side, 
the  cyanide  is  dropped  into  it,  the  tent  closed  quickly,  and  left 
on  the  tree  one  hour. 

The  Dose — The  chemicals  used  are  either  cyanide  of  potassium 
or  cyanide  of  sodium  (the  latter  usually  now  as  it  is  cheaper  and 
gives  the  best  of  results)  from  which  the  gas  is  liberated  by  emers- 


—79— 


ing  it  in  diluted  surfuric  acid.  Potassium  Cyanide  requires  for  each 
ounce,  one  fluid  ounce  of  acid  diluted  with  three  fluid  ounces  of 
water.  Sodium  Cyanide  for  each  ounce  requires  ll/2  fluid  ounces 
of  acid  diluted  with  2  fluid  ounces  of  water,  but  as  ^4  of  an  ounce 
of  the  sodium  is  as  strong  as  an  ounce  of  the  potassium,  and  it  is 
a  little  cheaper  per  ounce,  a  saving  is  made  in  using  it.  This 
refers  to  the  best  grade  of  each  chemical  and  it  is  important  to 


Method  of  Marking  Tent. 

use  the  best.  With  cyanide  of  potassium  the  best  is  known  as 
99%  ;  with  cyanide  of  sodium  it  is  called  129%,  and  the  sulphuric 
acid  is  known  as  93%. 

These  chemicals  obtained  from  the  general  drug  trade  are  not 
always  sufficiently  pure,  and  the  Horticultural  Commissioner's  office 
will  always  be  able  to  inform  anyone  how  to  get  pure  chemicals. 
We  can  also  furnish  the  tables  or  schedules  of  dosage  which  will 
be  correct. 


—80— 

One  hundred  cubic  feet  of  tented  space  requires  1  oz.  of  pot- 
tasium  cyanide  or  y^  oz.  of  sodium  cyanide  for  a  basis  dose,  which 
is  used  for  most  fumigation  work,  and  is. known  as  Schedule  No.  1 
for  potassium  cyanide  and  Schedule  A  for  sodium  cyanide,  and 
they  can  be  varied  for  any  special  infestation  or  condition  of  tree 
or  atmosphere.  For  instance,  a  bad  infestation  of  Mealy  Bug-  would 
require  \l/2  this  schedule  dose. 

The  residue  remaining  in  the  pots  after  treatent  of  each  tree 
should  be  a  green  liquid,  not  very  poisonous,  but  if  lumps  of  cyanide 
remain  in  it  undissolved  from  wrong  proportioning  or  poor  ma- 
terial, any  animal  or  fowl  eating  it  would  be  poisoned,  and  burying 
is  the  better  plan  for  its  disposal  if  the  work  is  done  near  houses 
or  barns.  Care  should  be  used  not  to  drop  any  cyanide  in  handling 
it  for  the  same  reason.  Operators  should  very  carefully  avoid  in- 
haling the  gas  also,  as  it  is  very  poisonous. 

When  to  Fumigate 

If  the  trees  have  only  Black  Scale,  fumigate  from  September  10th 
to  February  1st,  and  that  time  is  as  good  as  any  for  the  other  scales 
and  bugs  except  the  Longulus  Scale,  which  seems  to  require  treat- 
ment as  early  as  August  15th  as  noted  in  the  description  of  that 
scale. 

Insecticides  and  Sprays 
1.     Lime  Sulphur: 

Quicklime -. 33  pounds 

Sulphur _ 66  pounds 

Water 200  gallons 

Sift  sulphur  through  box  with  screen  bottom  into  boiling  tank 
with  50  gallons  of  water.  Add  the  lime  and  boil  45  minutes  to 
one  hour.  Stir  frequently.  Strain  through  cheese  cloth  or  burlap 
and  dilute  to  make  200  gallons.  If  extra  lime  is  desired  strain  in 
milk  of  lime  when  spray  is  ready  for  use. 
l*/2.  Self-boiled  Lime  Sulphur: 

Fresh  stone  lime  (not  air  slacked) 32  pounds 

Flowers  of  sulphur 32  pounds 

Water  to  make 200  gallons 

Place  the  lime  in  a  barrel  and  pour  on  enough  water  to  cover 
it.  As  soon  as  it  begin  to  slack,  sift  in  the  sulphur  so  that  all 
lumps  will  be  broken  up  fine.  Stir  constantly,  and  add  water 
slowly  to  make  a  thick  paste,  then,  as  soon  as  the  slacking  is  com- 


—81— 

pleted  dilute  to  a  thin  paste,  then  to  a  liquid  thin  enough  to  strain, 
then  add  the  balance  of  the  water  and  use. 

The  heat  of  the  slacking-  lime  will  boil  the  mixture  for  several 
minutes  and  hot  water  is  better  for  thinning  the  paste  so  as  to 
prolong  the  period  of  heat,  which  is  necessary  to  dissolve  the 
sulphur. 

Rex  lime  sulphur  spray  sold  ready  prepared  has  produced  excel- 
lent results  for  Red  Spider  on  citrus  trees.  It  costs  about  eighty 
cents  per  one  hundred  gallons  when  diluted  to  a  3%  solution  for  use. 

The  Ortho  spray  is  also  well  recommended  for  the  same  pur- 
pose and  costs  somewhat  less. 

2.     Commercial  Lime  Sulphur: 

If  of  32°  Beaume  dilute  1  to  9.  If  36°  dilute  1  to  11.  Either 
of  the  above  for  San  Jose  and  other  armored  scales  to  be  applied 
during  the  dormant  season,  preferably  in  early  winter  or  early 
spring.  For  Peach  Moth,  as  the  buds  are  expanding  in  the  spring. 
For  Red  Spiders  whenever  they  are  prevalent. 

2]/2.     Sulfid  of  Potash  Stock  Solution: 

Granulated,  or  powdered  concentrated  lye 15  pounds 

Sulphur  :. 18  pounds 

Water  to  make :..... 20  gallons 

Stir  the  sulphur  and  lye  together  in  a  vessel  which  will  allow 
plenty  of  room  for  boiling.  When  well  mixed,  add  about  one 
pint  of  water,  placing  it  in  a  slight  hollow  in  the  mixture,  and  stir 
in  slowly.  The  mixture  will  soon  begin  to  melt  and  boil,  forming 
a  red  fluid;  stir  until  the  boiling  ceases,  and  then  add  water  to 
make  20  gallons.  This  stock  solution  will  keep  for  awhile,  or 
indefinitely  when  protected  from  the  air. 

Preparation  of  the  Spray  Mixture  with  Sulfid  of  Potash — Place 
10  to  15  pounds  of  sublimed  sulphur,  or  14  to  20  pounds  of  ground 
sulphur  in  the  spray  tank  with  4  gallons  of  flour  paste  and  1  to 
2  gallons  of  the  sulfid  of  potash  stock  solution;  add  water  to  make 
100  gallons.  For  summer  or  spring  spraying  after  the  danger  of 
rains  is  over,  the  minimum  amount  of  sulphur  is  sufficient.  Used 
for  Red  Spider. 


—82— 

3.  Distillate  28°  to  30°  Baume : 

Distillate 10  to  20  gallons 

Water 200  gallons 

For  use  only  with  power  sprayer  with  good  agitator,  which  is 
necessary  to  make  a  mechanical  mixture  of  the  oil  and  water. 
For  the  Brown  Apricot,  Black  and  other  unarmored  Scales,  and 
for  Woolly  Aphis,  to  be  applied  during  the  dormant  season,  pref- 
erably in  early  winter. 

4.  Distillate   Emulsion  :     Stock  emulsion — 

Hot  water  12  gallons 

Fish  oil  soap  (see  No.  12)  or  whale-oil  soap...30  ^AllUllfe    lbs« 
Distillate  30°  to  40° 20  gallons 

Add  soap  to  hot  water  in  spray  tank  with  agitator  going.  After 
soap  is  dissolved  add  oil  slowly,  keeping  mixture  agitated.  Pump 
out  through  nozzle  at  175  pounds  pressure  into  storage  tank. 

For  use  take — 

Stock  emulsion  11  gallons 

Blackleaf  40 1  pint 

Water   200  gallons 

Place  oil  emulsion  in  spray  tank,  start  agitator  and  add  the 
water.  When  diluted  add  the  Blackleaf.  For  Thrips,  Black  Peach 
Aphis  and  other  plant  lice. 

5.  Kerosene  Emulsion : 

Dissolve  ^2  lb.  soap  in  1  gallon  hot  water ;  add  1  gallon 

of  kerosene. 

Mix  thoroughly  with  spray  pump  by  turning  nozzle  back  into 
mixture.  For  plant  lice  and  other  sucking  insects  during  growing 
season,  dilute  with  15  to  25  gallons  of  water.  For  scale  insects, 
Woolly  Aphis  and  other  sucking  insects  during  dormant;  season, 
dilute  with  5  to  10  gallons  water.  For  use  on  small  scale  with 
sprayer. 

6.  Kerosene  Emulsion.     Kitchen  formula: 

Dissolve  1  inch  cube  soap  in  1  pint  hot  water;  add  1 

pint  kerosene.     Churn  with  egg  beater. 

For  growing  plants,  dilute  to  2  or  3  gallons  water.  For  dormant 
plants,  1  gallon. 


—83— 

7.  Miscible  Oils: 

Commercial  preparations  of  oil  so  treated  as  to  mix  directly 
with  water.  Follow  directions  on  container.  Uses  same  as  3,  4,  5, 
8,  9  and  12. 

8.  Straight  Kerosene  or  Water  White  Oil: 

Water  white  oil  (42°  Baume)  or  kerosene 20  gallons 

Water 1 200  gallons 

In  use  for  scale  insects  on  citrus  trees.  Application  by  power 
outfit. 

9.  Soap  Solution : 

Soap 1  pound 

Water 5  to  15  pounds 

Whale-oil  or  fish-oil  soap  preferable,  but  for  small  amounts  any 
yellow  laundry  soap  will  answer.  For  plant  lice  and  other  suck- 
ing insects  during  summer. 

10.  Carbolic  Acid  Emulsion : 

Whale-oil  soap  40  pounds 

Crude  carbolic  acid - •. 5  gallons 

Water  to  make 40  gallons 

Dissolve  soap  well  in  hot  water,  add  carbolic  acid  and  boil  slowly 
20  minutes  (reserve  some  water  for  adding  to  prevent  boiling  over). 
For  use  add  1  gallon  to  20  gallons  of  water.  For  Mealy  Bugs  or 
Scale. 

11.  Soap  Solution.     Kitchen  formula: 

1J4  mcn  cube  soap,  1  gallon  warm  water. 

12.  Fish  Oil  Soap  : 

Water  6       gallons 

Lye  (98%)  2       pounds 

Fish  oil ; _ 1^  gallons 

Add  lye  to  water  in  boiler.  When  dissolved  and  water  boiling, 
pour  in  the  fish  oil,  stirring  in  meantime,  and  boil  slowly  for  two 
hours.  This  will  give  about  40  pounds  soap.  For  use  dilute  with 
5  to  15  gallons  water  for  each  pound.  For  same  pests  as  No.  9. 


13.  Tobacco  or  Nicotine  : 

a.  Blackleaf  40  (40%  nicotine) 1  pint 

Water  200  gallons 

b.  Tobacco  stems  r 1  pound 

Water  4  gallons 

Steep  stems  in  1  gallon  warm  water  and  dilute  to  4  gallons. 
For  plant  lice  and  other  sucking  insects  during  growing  season. 
For  Woolly  Aphis  and  Peach  Aphis  underground.  A  liberal  solu- 
tion, or  the  dry  dust  in  early  winter,  about  the  base  of  the  tree, 
the  surface  soil  being  first  removed. 

14.  Tobacco  Soap : 

Blackleaf  40  (1-10  gal.)   1  pound 

(     Cresol  soap  , 1  gallon 

Or 

(     Whale-oil  soap  10  pounds 

Water 200  gallons 

The  cresol  soap  requires  no  heating.  Use  same  as  13.  Penetrat- 
ing and  wetting  power  better. 

15.  Lime  Sulphur  Tobacco: 

Commercial  lime  sulphur  36° 20  gallons 

Blackleaf  40 .' 14  fluid  oz. 

Water .. 200  gallons 

For  Orange  Thrips. 

16.  Carbolic  Lime: 

Quicklime  - 150  pounds 

Crude  carbolic  acid 2  gallons 

Water 200  gallons 

For  Pear  Thrips. 

17.  Sulphur: 

a.  Dry.    Thoroughly  dust  over  the  foliage,  preferably 
when  moist  with  dew.    Hydrated  lime,  about  equal 
parts  with  sulphur  will  increase  adhesiveness. 

b.  Spray.     Sulphur  30  pounds,  lime  (as  milk  of  lime) 
15  pounds,  water  200  gallons. 

c.  Spray.     Commercial   lime   sulphur  4  to   5   gallons, 
water  200  gallons. 

For  Red  Spiders  and  Silver  Mite. 


—85— 

18.  Lead  Arsenate : 

Lead  arsenate 6  to  12  pounds 

"Water  200  gallons 

First  mix  arsenate  with  2  or  3  gallons  of  water.  For  Coddling 
Moth  and  most  defoliating  insects. 

19.  Lead  Aresnate.     Kitchen  formula: 

Lead  arsenate 1  tablespoonful  (1  oz.) 

Water ~ 1  gallon 

20.  Paris  Green: 

Paris  green _ iy2  to    2  pounds 

Water  200  gallons 

For  Coddling  Moth  and  most  defoliating  insects.  Not  to  be 
used  along  coast  or  moist  situations  where  injury  is  likely  to  result 
to  foliage. 

21.  Paris  Green.    Kitchen  formula :. 

Paris  green  (*4  oz.)   1  teaspoonful 

Lime 3  teaspoonfuls 

Water : 2  gallons 

22.  Poisoned  Bait: 

B ran   _ 10  pounds 

(  Paris  green  *  .     1  pound 

Or 

(   White  arsenic J^  pound 

Water   2  gallons 

Molasses   J^  gallon 

Mix  paris  green  with  bran  dry.  Add  molasses  to  the  water  and 
mix  into  the  bran,  making  a  moist  paste.  For  Cut  Worms  and 
Grasshoppers,  distribute  a  small  handful  about  the  base  of  the 
vines  or  tree,  or  scatter  about  plants  in  the  garden.  May  be  dis- 
tributed broadcast  for  Grasshoppers  and  Army  Worms. 

23.  Poisoned  Bait.     Kitchen  formula : 

B  ran  1  quart 

Paris  green  1  teaspoonful 

Molasses  1  teaspoonful 


—86— 

24.  Tree  Barriers: 

a.  Tree  Tanglefoot. 

Mix  with  a  gentle  heat  one  pound  of  resin  and  one  gallon  of 
castor  oil,  and  when  cold  thin  as  desired  with  more  castor  oil. 
One  of  the  best  ways  to  apply  it  is  to  saturate  a  piece  of  baling 
rope  with  the  well  thinned  mixture  and  tie  around  the  trunk  of 
the  tree.  This  will  remain  sufficiently  sticky  about  ten  days,  as 
long  as  anything  of  the  kind  we  know  of.  A  strip  a  few  inches 
wide  surrounding  the  tree  trunk,  placed  in  the  fall  and  tended 
during  the  winter  to  prevent  the  ascent  of  the  Canker  Worm  Moth. 
Placed  in  Hop  Vines  to  prevent  ascent  of  the  Hop  Flea  Beetle. 
To  bar  Argentine  Ants  or  most  other  insects  that  reach  the  fol- 
liag  by  crawling  only. 

b.  Cotton  Bands: 

A  four  inch  strip  tied  round  the  tree  by  a  string  at  the  lower 
edge,  and  the  top  then  pulled  down  over  the  string  is  in  use 
against  Fuller's  Rose  Beetle  on  the  orange,  and  other  beetles  and 
worms.  See  State  Experimental  Station  Bulletin  No.  214. 

c.  Mosquito  Wire  Netting: 

This  similarly  applied  is  in  use  against  the  Canker  Worm. 

d.  Asphaltum : 

A  strip  6  to  8  inches  wide  painted  about  base  of  tree  trunk  to 
prevent  the  entrance  of  the  Peach  Tree  Borer. 

25.  Ground  Barriers : 

A  deep  furrow  with  straight  side  next  to  the  field  to  be  pro- 
tected will  stop  the  progress  of  Army  Worms.  Holes  8  or  10 
inches  deep  and  20  or  30  feet  apart  may  be  dug  in  the  furrow. 
The  worms  upon  falling  in  these  may  be  killed  by  pouring  in  a 
small  amount  of  gasoline  and  throwing  in  a  lighted  match,  or  oil, 
hot  water,  or  other  means  as  seems  desirable. 

26.  Carbon  Bisulphide : 

For  treatment  of  stored  products  and  underground  insects. 
Usual  dosage,  1  pint  to  1000  cubic  feet  space. 
Place  liquid  in  saucers  or  shallow  vessels  above  material  to  be 
treated.     Inflammable;  avoid  lights. 

For  underground  insects,  a  tablespoonful  in  holes  3  or  4  feet  apart. 


—87— 

27.  Cyanide  of  Potassium  : 

One  ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water  poured  into  a  trench  sur- 
rounding a  tree  affected  with  Woolly  Aphis  or  Black  Peach  Aphis 
is  an  excellent  remedy.  Use  two  to  five  gallons  of  the  mixture 
according  to  the  size  of  the  tree  to  be  treated.  Too  strong  a 
dose  is  apt  to  injure  the  tree. 

28.  Hydrocyanic  Acid  Gas  : 

Potassium  cyanide   (98%) 1  ounce 

Sulphuric  acid  (93%)  1  fluid  oz. 

Water   3  fluid  oz. 

Or 

Sodium  cyanide  (129%) £4  ounce 

Sulphuric  acid  (93%) 1#  fluid  oz. 

Water   ; \l/2  fluid  oz. 

Place  water  and  acid  in  earthenware  vessel  and  add  cyanide.  To 
be  used  under  tents  or  in  tight  rooms  or  boxes.  This  formula 
is  a  standard  dose  for  100  cubic  feet  of  space  within  a  tent  stretched 
over  a  tree  or  nursery  stock  to  be  fumigated  for  Red  or  Purple 
Scale.  Three-fourths  of  this  amount  is  right  for  Black  Scale  in 
the  fall  months.  In  a  tight  building  or  tight  box,  one-half  of 
this  dose  is  enough.  In  all  cases  leave  exposed  for  one  hour. 

For  scale  insects  on  citrus  trees,  maximum  or  Purple  and  Red 
Scale  dosage  can  be  found  by  multiplying  distance  around  by 
distance  over  the  top  of  tented  tree  and  pointing  off  two  places. 
Example : 

Distance  around  Distance  over 

40  feet  x  20  feet  —  8  ounces  cyanide 

For  Black  Scale  reduce  one-quarter. 

29.  Resin  Dipping  Solution  : 

Resin  20  pounds 

Caustic  soda  or  lye 8  pounds 

Fish  oil  : 3  pints 

Water   100  gallons 

Boil  resin  and  caustic  soda  in  50  gallons  of  water  for  one  hour. 
Dilute  to  100  gallons.  In  use  for  dipping  citrus  nursery  stock  for 
scale  insects  and  Red  Spiders.  Kerosene  emulsion  and  lime  sulphur 
also  used  for  dipping  deciduous  nursery  stock. 


—88— 

30.  Kerosene  or  Crude  Oil : 

A  thin  film  spread  over  the  surface  of  a  mosquito-breeding  pool 
or  container  will  destroy  the  wrigglers.  For  large  scale  work, 
the  cheaper  crude  oil  may  be  used  and  evaporation  will  occur 
less  rapidly.  Four  parts  of  heavy  oil  18°  to  one  part  light  oil  30° 
to  35°  gravity  will  spray  readily  from  nozzles.  Drainage  or  other 
permanent  work  should  have  precedence  over  temporary  treatments. 

31.  Pyrethrum  or  Buhach: 

Fresh  material  dusted  around  floors  and  walls  will  reduce  the 
number  of  fleas  and  other  household  insects. 

32. |  Formalin:  A  5%  solution  of  formaldehyde  sweetened  with 
sugar  and  placed  in  shallow  vessels  makes  a  satisfactory  fly  poison. 

Proper  disposal  of  manure  and  garbage,  however,  is  the  basis 
for  house-fly  control. 

33.     Ant  Poison: 

Syrup  containing  between  ^4  and  %  of  one  per  cent  arsenic.  A 
sponge  saturated  with  the  arsenic  solution  and  placed  in  a  small 
fruit  jar  with  perforated  cover  should  be  placed  where  ants  fre- 
quent. Carbon  bisulphide  or  cyanide  solution  may  be  applied  to 
the  nests  in  the  ground. 

Fungicides 

1.     Bordeaux  Mixture: 

Nearly  fill  two  50  gallon  barrels  with  water;  put  50  pounds 
of  bluestone  in  a  sack  and  suspend  near  the  top  in  one  barrel. 
This  plan  hastens  it  in  dissolving.  Then  slack  50  pounds  of  good 
stone  lime  by  adding  a  little  water  at  a  time,  stirring  it  to  a  thick 
smooth  paste,  then  add  water  to  make  a  liquid,  then  pour  it  into 
the  other  barrel.  Now  each  gallon  from  these  barrels  will  con- 
tain one  pound  of  the  solid  ingredients.  Nearly  fill  two  other 
barrels  or  the  spray  tank  with  cold  water  and  strain  in  the  stock 
solutions  both  kinds  running  slowly  at  the  same  time  while  the 
water  is  well  stirred.  The  proportions  are  bluestone  5  pounds, 
lime  6  pounds  and  water  50  gallons.  These  proportions  may  vary 
from  3  to  8  pounds  of  bluestone,  always  using  a  little  more  than 
an  equal  weight  of  lime.  The  leafless  tree  will  bear  much  stronger 
spray  than  the  leaves,  and  it  can  be  used  much  stronger  in  rainy 
weather  than  in  fair  weather.  Keep  it  well  stirred  when  spraying. 


—89— 

Bordeaux  Mixture  is  the  standard  fungicide  and  is  used  for  Mil- 
dew, Peach  Leaf  Curl,  Celery  Blight,  and  all  fungus  diseases. 

2.  Formaline  or  Corrosive  Sublimate : 

1  pint  formalin  (40%  strength)  in  30  gallons  of  water. 
Or 

2  ounces  Corrosive  Sublimate  in  15  gallons  of  water. 

Will  tend  to  prevent  scab  in  potatoes  if  the  seed  is  dipped  in 
it  before  planting. 

3.  Iron  Sulphide  Spray: 

This  spray  is  highly  recommended  for  Apple  Mildew.    It  can  be 
bought  ready  prepared. 

4.  Lime  Sulphur  Spray: 

This  spray  made  as  per  Insecticide  Spray  No.  1  is  also  a  good 
fungicide. 


—90— 

PRUNING 

Tnis  is  a  very  puzzling  subject  to  beginners  in  horticulture, 
or  to  newcomers  from  Eastern  States,  and  experience  only  will 
give  a  thorough  knowledge  of  it;  but  a  few  general  statements  on 
it  might  be  of  material  assistance,  while  leaving  them  free  to  adapt 
their  methods  to  their  own  localities,  climate,  or  the  special  needs 
of  their  trees. 


—91— 

This  illustration  gives  a  general  idea  of  the  growth  and  pruning 
of  young  apple,  plum,  pear  and  apricot  trees. 

Peach  trees  should  be  pruned  in  about  the  same  way,  but  as 
they  grow  faster,  a  larger  top  will  be  obtained  in  the  same  time. 
Citrus  trees  need  little  pruning  for  the  first  six  years,  but  let  them 
branch  about  two  feet  from  the  ground  and  shape  the  top  a  little, 
cutting  back  any  branches  which  become  too  prominent. 

As  the  deciduous  trees  grow  older,  less  pruning  will  be  required, 
but  they  must  be  kept  cut  down  to  any  height  or  shape  desired. 
The  tree  should  be  kept  low  enough  for  convenient  care  and  fruit 
picking  but  not  so  low  that,  to  obtain  the  desired  size  of  the  top 
they  will  become  too  wide,  and  thus  interfere  with  cultivation. 
The  shape  of  the  tree  can  often  be  corrected  by  weighting  down 
the  branches  on  the  side  of  light  growth,  thus  making  them  more 
spreading.  The  checking  of  the  upward  growth  also  stimulates 
fruit  production. 

Unthrifty  trees  of  all  kinds  should  be  severely  pruned,  as  the 
more  new  wood  can  be  grown  into  the  top  the  better,  but  they 
should  be  well  fertilized  at  the  same  time. 

Winter  is  the  best  time  to  prune  deciduous  trees  and  wood 
growth  is  stimulated  thereby  more  than  by  work  done  in  the  sum- 
mer, but  fall  pruning  of  citrus  trees  produces  wood,  while  spring 
pruning  stimulates  fruit  production. 

A  tree  bearing  only  on  alternate  years  can  often  be  induced  to 
bear  better  crops  on  the  "off"  years  by  severe  pruning  and  the 
thinning  of  the  fruit,  on  fruitful  years.  Good  habits  in  trees  as  in 
people  can  be  much  promoted  by  proper  training  when  young. 

In  this  climate,  the  tops  of  the  deciduous  trees  should  not  be 
much  thinned  out  but  should  be  kept  compact,  as  much  of  the 
fruit  is  produced  in  the  center  of  the  tree.  The  branches  also 
are  kept  stocky  and  strong  to  bear  up  the  fruit,  and  vigorous 
new  growth  produced  by  outside  pruning  shades  the  fruit  and 
prevents  sunburn,  especially  of  apricots. 

Citrus  trees,  however,  produce  the  best  results  when  well  thinned 
out  after  the  age  of  six  or  seven  years,  so  that  the  foliage  and 
fruit  will  be  nearly  all  on  the  outside  of  the  tree;  and  on  any 
kind  of  a  tree,  a  dead  or  useless  branch  should  be  removed.  This 
especially  applies  to  sucker  growths.  These  are  vigorous,  upright 
shoots,  springing  up  through  the  center  of  the  trees  like  a  new 
tree  starting  up  from  a  branch.  They  are  useless  and  in  their 
growth  use  nourishment  which  should  go  to  the  support  of  the 
tree.  Cut  them  off  close  to  the  parent  branch  as  soon  as  noticed. 


—92— 


NOXIOUS  WEEDS 


Johnson  Grass 

(Sorghum  halepense) 

This  very  formidable  plant  pest  in  many  localities  seems  espe- 
cially adapted  to  some  of  the  loose  soils  of  our  County,  and  to 
people  living  there  no  description  is  necessary.  But  it  is  scattered 
in  patches  all  over  the  County,  especially  in  the  washes  south  of 


Johnson  Grass  (Sorghum  halepense) 
A — Growth  first  year.     B — Older  plant,  deaper  root. 

the   mountains,   and   many  persons   would   like   to   know   it  when 
they  see  it,  and  know  how  to  get  rid  of  it. 

The  blades  of  this  grass  are  often  half  an  inch  wide  and  of  cor- 
responding length,  and  the  strong  stalk  grows  to  a  height  of  three 
feet  or  more,  topped  by  a  bushy  head  looking  somewhat  like  sorg- 


—93— 

hum  or  broom  corn  in  miniature,  having  the  same  reddish  tinge, 
but  more  drooping  like  oats,  and  the  seed  is  nearly  round.  In 
a  favorable  spot  the  grass  will  grow  as  thick  as  possible,  but  there 
are  seldom  stalks  enough  to  hide  the  leaves  near  the  ground,  where 
they  are  very  thick. 

To  eradicate  this  grass,  first  plow  it  well,  or  if  fences,  trees,  etc., 
prevent  that,  dig  it  up  by  hand,  and  in  either  case,  rake  out  all 
the  roots  possible  with  potato  hooks ;  but  you  will  never  get  them 


Johnson  Grass-root  System. 

all  and  as  soon  as  the  remaining  ones  send  up  shoots  again,  go 
over  it  again  with  the  tool  most  conveniently  used,  and  cut  off 
every  shoot  below  the  surface,  and  this  should  be  done  as  often 
as  they  spring  up  until  they  cease  to  show  themselves,  when  the 
roots  have  become  exhausted  and  died.  Ordinarily  the  grass  can 
be  killed  out  in  a  season  if  kept  at  persistently  and  cut  off  under 
ground  often  enough,  but  in  just  the  right  kind  of  moist  sandy 
loam  it  may  take  longer. 

The  roots  are  very  large  and  vigorous,  and  often  go  very  deep, 


—94— 

but  if  growth  to  the  air  can  be  prevented,  they  will  die  in  time. 
It  is  a  misdemeanor  in  this  State  to  allow  the  growth  of  this 
grass,  and  no  matter  how  small  the  patch,  it  should  be  vigorously 
attacked  and  killed,  as  the  future  will  well  reward  you  for  doing 
so,  and  your  neighbors  will  "bless  you"  for  removing  the  dangerous 
pest  from  the  vicinity. 


Canada  Thistle. 


Canada  Thistle 

This  is  a  comparatively  small  member  of  the  thistle  family  but 
so  persistent  when  established  that  the  first  sign  of  its  arrival 
should  call  for  very  active  efforts  to  kill  it  out  completely. 

The  leaf  has  a  scalloped  and  ruffled  appearance,  and  on  each 
curl  of  the  ruffle  is  a  thorn,  with  many  other  thorns  about  the 
stalks.  These  stalks  are  never  more  than  two  feet  high,  often 


—95— 

much  shorter,  slender  and  topped  with  a  bloom  much  like  that 
of  the  Bull  Thistle,  but  never  more  than  an  inch  across.  The 
bulb  where  it  joins  the  stalk  is  smaller  in  proportion  also,  and 
the  bloom  more  widely  spread  and  flat.  The  color  of  the  bloom 
is  purple. 

In  small  patches  cut  the  plants  off  below  the  surface,  the  deeper 
the  better,  and  apply  salt  freely.  Watch  carefully  and  as  soon  as 
any  plants  appear  cut  them  off  again  and  salt  again,  and  if  this 
is  done  often  and  persistently  enough,  they  can  be  killed  in  a 
summer.  The  salt  may  spoil  the  soil  for  a  time,  but  this  loss  will 
not  compare  with  the  gain  of  freedom  from  this  pest.  Any  plant 
will  die  if  kept  for  a  long  time  from  growing  above  the  surface, 
but  the  salt  hastens  the  killing. 


The  Russian  Thistle 

This  is  a  member  of  the  "tumble  weed"  family,  and  grows  in 
the  globular  form  of  these  plants.  The  thorn  grows  where  the 
small  pointed  leaf  joins  the  stalk,  and  little  flowers  come  on  the 
sides  of  the  stalks.  When  the  plant  is  ripe  the  attachment  to  the 
root  weakens  until  it  breaks,  and  the  weed  rolling  before  the  wind 
often  scatters  its  seed  over  a  very  wide  territory. 

It  is  an  annual  plant,  growing  entirely  from  the  seed,  and  not 
much  harder  to  kill  out  than  a  host  of  other  annual  weeds  which 
we  yearly  combat.  Of  course,  it  is  one  more  variety,  and  when 
just  getting  started  in  a  neighborhood  should  be  exterminated  if 
possible,  and  that  is  not  a  very  difficult  undertaking. 

Wild  Morning  Glory 

A  great  pest  in  some  localities,  and  entirely  immune  to  ordinary 
crop  cultivation.  By  continuous  cultivation  with  sweep  cultivators, 
and  hoes  where  necessary,  its  seeding  may  absolutely  be  prevented 
and  this  treatment  continued  in  all  seasons  will  prevent  the  weed 
from  making  much  growth  above  the  surface.  If  it  can  get  no 
growth  in  the  air  any  ordinary  plant  will  die  in  time,  and  the 
morning  glory  is  no  exception.  Patience  and  persistence  are  the 
remedies.  Every  green  sprout  must  be  cut  off  below  the  surface 
once  a  week  in  the  growing  season.  The  plant  will  then  starve, 
but  it  may  take  two  years. 


Russian  Thistle  (Salsolipali) 

a — Branchlet  showing  leaves,    b — Seed-pod  magnified,    c — Branchlet  showing 
spiny  bracts  and  blossoms  natural  size. 

—96- 


—97— 


- 


Seeds  of  clover  dodder  and  white  clover,  showing 
relative  sizes.     Enlarged. 

Love  Vine  or  Dodder 

This  is  the  bright  yellow  or  orange  colored  vine  seen  in  various 
uncultivated  places  running  over  the  weeds  or  brush,  or  much 
worse,  in  alfalfa  fields.  It  is  of  the  morning  glory  family,  but  when 
well  started  fastens  itself  to  the  stalk  of  its  host  plant,  its  root 
dies,  and  it  becomes  a  parasite,  drawing  nourishment  from  the 
plant  supporting  it.  Fire  is  the  only  remedy.  Cut  and  pile  the 
vine  and  host  plantj  put  on  more  rubbish  if  obtainable,  to  cover 
the  whole  patch,  and  burn,  and  do  this  before  the  dodder  seeds. 
Look  out  for  it  in  alfalfa  seed.  You  can  detect  it  with  a  pocket 
glass. 

Detection  of  the  presence  in  commercial  seed  of  dodder,  irrespec- 
tive of  its  kind,  demands  first  consideration,  because  its  presence 
justifies  refusal  to  purchase  such  seed.  A  magnifying  glass  is  nec- 
essary, as  it  will  enable  one  to  readily  distinguish  any  kind  of 
dodder  seed  from  clover,  alfalfa,  or  flax  seed.  Dodder  seeds  are, 
as  a  rule,  about  the  same  size  as  red  clover  seeds,  including  the 
smallest  and  largest  seeds.  The  surface  is  finely  roughened  and 
dull,  and  the  general  form  varies  from  nearly  spherical  to  strongly 
flattened  and  oval  or  nearly  circular.  The  color  is  gray,  yellowish 
brown,  or  reddish  brown,  depending  largely  on  the  kind.  In  con- 
trast, clover  and  alfalfa  seeds  are  smooth,  often  with  a  slight 
luster.  Their  triangular,  oval,  or  kidney  form  aids  in  distinguish- 
ing them  from  seeds  of  the  dodder. 

Cockle  Burr 

Never  let  it  seed.  It  will  perhaps  need  watching  for  several 
years  as  the  burrs,  if  buried  several  inches  deep  by  the  plow,  lay 
dormant  in  the  ground,  but  grow  when  in  subsequent  years  they 
are  thrown  up  nearer  the  surface.  The  oily  nature  of  the  seed 
preserves  it  in  the  ground  for  years. 


—98— 


THE   HORTICULTURAL   COMMISSIONER'S   AUTHORITY 
FROM  THE  STATE 


Section  2322a  of  the  Political  Code  of  the  State  of  California  is 
as  follows : 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  county  horticultural  commissioner  in 
each  county,  whenever  he  shall  deem  it  necessary,  to  cause  an  in- 
spection to  be  made  of  any  premises,  orchards  or  nursery,  or  trees, 
plants,  vegetables,  vines,  or  fruits,  or  any  fruit-packing  house,  store- 
room, salesroom,  or  any  other  place  or  article  in  his  jurisdiction, 
and  if  found  infected  with  infectious  diseases,  scale  insects,  or 
coddling  moth,  or  other  pests  injurious  to  fruit,  plants,  vegetables, 
trees,  or  vines,  or  with  their  eggs,  .or  larvae,  or  if  there  is  found 
growing  thereon  the  Russian  thistle  or  saltwort,  Johnson  grass 
or  other  noxious  weeds,  he  shall,  in  writing,  notify  the  owner  or 
owners,  or  person  or  persons  in  charge,  or  in  possession  of  the  said 
places  or  orchards  or  nurseries,  or  trees,  or  plants,  vegetables,  vines, 
or  fruit,  or  article  as  aforesaid,  that  the  same  are  infected  with  said 
diseases,  insects  or  other  pests,  or  any  of  them,  or  their  eggs  or 
larvae,  or  that  the  Russian  thistle  or  saltwort,  Johnson  grass  or 
other  noxious  weeds  is  growing  thereon,  and  require  such  person 
or  persons,  to  eradicate  or  destroy  the  said  insects,  or  other  pests, 
or  their  eggs  or  larvae,  or  Russian  thistle  or  saltwort,  Johnson  grass 
or  other  noxious  weeds  within  a  certain  time  to  be  therein  specified. 
Said  notices  may  be  served  upon  the  person  or  persons,  or  either 
of  them,  owning  or  having  charge,  or  having  possession  of  such 
infested  place  or  orchard,  or  nursery,  or  trees,  plants,  vegetables, 
vines,  or  fruit  or  articles  as  aforesaid,  or  premises  where  the  Russian 
thistle  or  saltwort,  Johnson  grass  or  other  noxious  weeds  shall  be 
growing,  or  upon  the  agents  of  either  by  any  commissioner,  or 
by  any  person  deputed  by  the  said  commissioner  for  that  purpose 
in  the  same  manner  as  a  summons  in  a  civil  action ;  provided,  how- 
ever, that  if  any  such  infected  or  infested  articles,  property  or 
premises  as  hereinabove  specified  belong  to  any  non-resident  per- 
son and  there  is  no  person  in  control  or  possession  thereof  and 
such  non-resident  person  has  no  tenant,  bailee,  depositary  or  agent 
upon  whom  service  can  be  had ;  or  if  the  owner  or  owners  of  any 
such  articles,  property  or  premises  can  not  after  due  diligence  be 


—99— 

found,  then  such  notice  may  be  served  by  posting  the  same  in  some 
conspicuous  place  upon  such  articles,  property  or  premises,  and 
by  mailing  a  copy  thereof  to  the  owner  thereof  -at  his  last  known 
place  of  residence,  if  the  same  is  known  or  can  be  ascertained. 
Any  and  all  such  places,  or  orchards,  or  nurseries,  or  trees,  plants, 
shrubs,  vegetables,  vines,  fruit,  or  articles  thus  infested,  or  premises 
where  the  Russian  thistle  or  saltwort  or  Johnson  grass  or  other 
noxious  weeds  shall  be  growing,  are  hereby  adjudged  and  declared 
to  be  a  public  nuisance ;  and  whenever  any  such  nuisance  shall 
exist  at  any  place  within  his  county,  and  the  proper  notice  thereof 
shall  have  been  served,  as  herein  provided,  and  such  nuisance  shall 
not  have  been  abated  within  the  time  specified  in  such  notice,  it 
shall  be  the  duty  of  the  county  horticultural  commissioner  to  cause 
said  nuisance  to  be  at  once  abated,  by  eradicating  or  destroying 
said  diseases,  insects,  or  other  pests,  or  their  eggs,  or  larvae,  or 
Russian  thistle  or  saltwort  or  Johnson  grass  or  other  noxious 
weeds.  The  expense  thereof  shall  be  a  county  charge  and  the  board 
of  supervisors  shall  allow  and  pay  the  same  out  of  the  general  fund 
of  the  county.  Any  and  all  sum  or  sums  so  paid  shall  be  and  be- 
come a  lien  on  the  property  and  premises  from  wrhich  said  nuisance 
has  been  removed  or  abated  in  pursuance  of  this  chapter.  A  notice 
of  such  lien  shall  be  filed  and  recorded  in  the  office  of  the  county 
recorder  of  the  county  in  which  the  said  property  and  premises  are 
situated,  within  thirty  days  after  the  right  to  the  said  lien  has 
accrued.  An  action  to  foreclose  such  lien  shall  be  commenced 
within  ninety  days  after  the  filing  and  recording  of  said  notice  of 
lien,  which  action  shall  be  brought  in  the  proper  court  by  the  dis- 
trict attorney  of  the  county  in  the  name  and  for  the  benefit  of 
the  county  making  such  payment  or  payments,  and  when  the  prop- 
erty is  sold,  enough  of  the  proceeds  shall  be  paid  into  the  county 
treasury  of  such  county  to  s'atisfy  the  lien  and  costs;  and  the  over- 
plus, if  any  there  be,  shall  be  paid  to  the  owner  of  the  property,  if 
known,  and  if  not,  into  the  court  for  his  use  when  ascertained. 
The  county  horticultural  commissioner  is  hereby  vested  with  the 
power  to  cause  any  and  all  such  nuisances  to  be  at  once  abated  in 
a  summary  manner. 


—100— 


COUNTY  REGULATIONS 


For  Admission,  Inspection  and  Treatment  of  Trees  and  Nursery 

Stock 

All  trees  and  plants  transported  into  the  County  must  bear  a 
tag  showing  where  grown  and  by  whom,  and  must  be  inspected 
by  the  Horticultural  Commissioner  or  his  Inspector,  and  bear 
his  certificate  of  freedom  from  harmful  insects  or  diseases  before 
delivery  to  the  consignee.  (Los  Angeles  County  Ordinance  No. 
42  N.  S.) 

This  ordinance  has  been  amended  as  follows : 

Ordinance  No.  312  (New  Series) 

An  Ordinance  to  amend  Ordinance  No.  42,  New  Series,  entitled 
"An  Ordinance  to  promote  the  horticultural  interests'  of  Los  An- 
geles County,  California,  and  providing  for  the  inspection  and  de- 
struction of  insect  pests,  and  providing  for  restrictions  upon  the 
importation  of  cuttings,  etc.,"  by  inserting  therein  between  Sections 
1  and  2  thereof  a  section  to  be  known  as  Section  \l/2. 

The  Board  of  Supervisors  of  the  County  of  Los  Angeles  do 
ordain  as  follows : 

Section  1.  That  Ordinance  No.  42  (New  Series)  entitled,  "An 
Ordinance  to  promote  the  horticultural  interests  of  Los  Angeles 
County,  California,  and  providing  for  the  inspection  and  destruc- 
tion of  insect  pests,  and  providing  for  restrictions  upon  the  im- 
portation of  cuttings,  etc.,"  be  and  the  same  is  hereby  amended 
by  inserting  therein  between  Sections  1  and  2  thereof  a  new  section 
to  be  known  as  Section  1^  and  to  read  as  follows,  to  wit: 

"That  no  person  or  person,  firm  or  corporation,  either  as  owner, 
agent,  factor,  broker,  servant  or  other  employee  shall  bring  for 
delivery,  or  cause  to  be  brought  for  delivery,  from  one  section  of 
the  County  of  Los  Angeles  to  another  section  of  the  County  of 
Los  Angeles  any  trees,  plants,  vines,  shrubs,  scions,  cuttings,  buds 
or  grafts,  without  giving  written  notice  of  their  arrival  at  their 
destination  within  twenty-four  hours  thereafter,  and  prior  to  re- 
moval from  said  point  of  destination,  to  the  horticultural  commis- 
sioner of  said  county,  or  to  the  local  inspector  of  the  district  into 
which  the  same  are  so  brought,  nor  shall  either  the  persons,  parties 


—101— 

ur  corporations  above  named  remove  the  same  from  the  place  of 
their  destination  until  inspected  as  hereinafter  provided. 

"That  any  person  or  persons,  corporation  or  corporations  men- 
tioned in  Section  1  of  this  ordinance  who  shall  ship  or  bring, 
or  cause  to  be  brought  or  shipped  from  one  section  of  Los  Angeles 
County  to  another  section  of  Los  Angeles  County,  any  trees,  scions, 
cuttings,  buds,  grafts,  shrubs  or  plants,  shall  have  placed  upon  or 
securely  attached  to  each  package,  box  or  separate  parcel  of  such 
articles  a  distinct  mark  or  label  showing  the  name  of  the  owner, 
agent  or  shipper,  the  name  of  the  grower  and  the  place  where  grown. 

"All  of  the  provisions  of  this  ordinance  applying  to  shipments 
from  without  the  County  of  Los  Angeles  into  the  County  of  Los 
Angeles  shall  apply  equally  to  shipments  from  one  section  of  the 
County  of  Los  Angeles  to  another  section  of  the  County  of  Los 
Angeles." 

Section  2.  The  Board  of  Supervisors  finds  that  this  ordinance  is 
needed  for  the  immediate  preservation  of  property  in  the  County 
of  Los  Angeles  for  the  reason  that  plants,  cuttings,  shrubs,  vines 
and  other  articles  of  like  nature  are  being  shipped  from  one  sec- 
tion of  the  county  to  another  section  of  the  county,  thus-  spreading 
disease  and  parasites  among  the  horticultural  sections  of  Los'  An- 
geles County,  and  for  that  reason  it  is  hereby  ordered  that  this 
ordinance  shall  be  published  for  at  least  one  week  in  The  Los  An- 
geles Daily  Journal,  a  newspaper  printed  and  published  in  the 
County  of  Los  Angelss,  together  with  the  names  of  the  members 
of  the  Board  of  Supervisors  voting  for  and  against  the  same,  and 
that  fifteen  days  after  the  passage  of  this  ordinance  the  same  shall 
take  effect,  to  wit,  on  the  8th  day  of  October,  1912. 

R.  W.  PRIDHAM, 

Chairman  Board  of  Supervisors  of  County  of  Los  Angeles,  State  of  California 

Attest :  H.  J.  LELANDE, 

[County  Clerk  and  ex  officio  Clerk  of  the  Board  of  Supervisors 


All  trees  and  plants  to  be  transported  must  be  inspected  before 
moved  by  the  Horticultural  Commissioner  or  his  Inspector,  and 
bear  his  certificate  of  freedom  from  harmful  insects  or  diseases. 
(Los  Angeles  County  Ordinance  No.  220  N.  S.) 

All  fumigators  and  sprayers  doing  public  work  outside  incor- 
porated cities  must  obtain  licenses  from  the  County,  granted  on 
approval  of  the  Horticultural  Commissioner.  (Los  Angeles  County 
Ordinance  No.  245,  N.  S.,  Sec.  53  and  54.) 


—102— 

STATE  QUARANTINE  ORDERS 

No  nursery  stock  or  plants  liable  to  infestation  by  citrus  white 
fly  will  be  admitted  from  the  States  bordering  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  or  from  North  Carolina  or  South  Carolina. 

No  stone  fruit  trees  will  be  admitted  from  States  east  of  Missis- 
sippi River. 

No  fruit  or  plants  will  be  admitted  from  Hawaii  except  banana 
and  pineapple  fruit. 

No  fruit  or  plants  will  be  admitted  from  Mexico  except  sour  limes 
and  banana  fruit. 

No  alfalfa  or  other  hay  will  be  admitted  from  Utah,  Idaho  or 
Wyoming. 


—103— 


INDEX 


Acacia,  Black  17 

Alfalfa    16 

Alfalfa  Weevil  59  and  60 

Almond    10 

Aphis..  Black  Peach 44  and  45 

Aphis,  Cabbage  64 

Aphis,  Orange  44  and  46 

Aphis,  Wooly  44  and  46 

Apple    9 

Apricot     .= 9 

Araucaria    bidwelli    (Monkey    puz- 
zle)   18 

Araucaria  excelsa  18 

Asparagus   16 

Australian  Sweet  Pea.. 20 

Avocada   (Alligator  Pear) 10 

Banana  10 

Berries   10 

Black  Scale  , 24-26 

Bottle   Tree    (Sterculia) 17 

Bordeaux   Mixture   88 

Cabbage  Bug,  Harlequin 66 

Cabbage  Worm  65 

Camphor    17 

Canada  Thistle   94 

Canker  Worm 61 

Carbon   Bisulphide  86 

Castor  Bean  19 

Celery  15 

Chestnuts    11 

Chinch  Bug,  False 66 

Chlorosis   72 

Cockle   Burr  97 

Codling  Moth  51  and  52 

Corn   WTorm   53 

Cottony   Cusheon    Scale 41 

Cut    Worm    67 

Cyanide   (Potassium  and  Sodium)..  87 


Cypress    18 

Damping  off  of  Citrus  Seedlings....  72 

Diabrotica    Soror    (Spotted    Green 
Beetle)   50 

Die-Back,  Florida  73  and  74 

Dodder  (Love  Vine) 97 

Eel  Worm 55  and  56 

Eucalyptus  21-23 

Euonymous    (Variagated   plant) 19 

Ferns    20 

Fig    ; 1 1 

Flat-headed   Borer  63 

Frost  Protection  72 

Fullers  Rose  Beetle 53  and  54 

Fumigation    . 75-80 

Fungicides  88  and  89 

Fungus    diseases   70-74 

Glover's  Scale  31  and  34 

Grape H 

Grape  Fruit   (Pomelo) 12 

Grape  Phylloxera  61 

Gravillea  (Silk  Oak) 20 

Greedy  Scale  30 

Guava   1 1 

Gum  Disease,  Citrus 70  and  71 

Harmful  Insects  and  Control 24 

Hemispherical  Scale   28 

Horticultural    Laws — County 

100  and  101 

Horticultural  Laws— State. ...98  and  99 

Insecticides   and   Sprays 80-89 

Ivy,  English  20 

Ivy  Scale  30 

Jacaranda    20 

Johnson  Grass  92  and  93 

June  Bug 62 

Lady  Bird — Native   California 68 

Lady  Bird  (Novis  cardinalis)   Aus- 
tralian ..  ...  41 


—104— 


Laurestina  19 

Lemon    12 

Licenses  for  Fumigators  and  Spray- 
ers    101 

Longulus  Scale  46 

Loquat   13 

Love   Vine    (Dodder) 97 

Magnolia  18 

Mealy  Bug — Citrus  35  and  36 

Mealy  Bug — Cypress 35  and  36 

Mealy  Bug — Long-tailed 35  and  36 

Mediterranean   Fruit  Fly 42-44 

Mexican  Orange  Maggot 42-44 

Monkey  Puzzle  18 

Morning  Glory  (Wild) 95 

Mulberry  13 

Nectarine 13 

Nightshade   '. 19 

Norfolk  Island  Pine  Scale -  64 

Norfolk  Island   Pine 18 

Oleander   19 

Olive  13 

Orange  13 

Orange  Aphis 44  and  46 

Palm  - 18 

Papyrus   20 

Peach    14 

Peach  Root  Borer 52 

Peach  Twig  Borer 48  and  49 

Pear    14 

Pepper  Tree 17 

Persimmon   15 

Pittosporum  20 

Plum  14 

Pomegranate    15 

Pomelo  14 

Potato,    Climbing 19 


Potato  Worm  57  and  58 

Privet    or    Legustrum 20 

Prune    14 

Purple  Scale  31-34 

Pruning  90  and  91 

Quarantine  Regulations  102 

Quince    ..15 

Red  Scale  29  and  30 

Red    Spider — Almond    or    Decidu- 
ous,  Citrus,  and  Six  Spotted...:37-40 

Remedies  for  insects 75-88 

Rice  Paper  Tree 18 

Roses    19 

Rose  and  Berry  Scale 50  and  51 

Scaly  Bark,  Citrus 71 

Silver  Mite  37-40 

Slug — Pear  and  Cherry 65 

Soft    Brown    Scale 27 

Sprays  and   Insecticides 80-89 

Squash    Bug  66 

Sterculia 17 

Tanglefoot    86 

Tent   Caterpillar 65 

Thistle,  Canada  94 

Thistle,  Russian  95  and  96 

Trips,  Bean,  Citrus  and  Pear 46-48 

Tussock  Moth,  California 65 

Umbrella  Tree  18 

Umbrella  Plant  20 

Walnut  15 

Weevil  Bean  and  Pea..... 63 

White    Fly— Citrus 42-44 

Wire  Worm  62 

Wistaria  19 

Wither-tip  73 

Wooly  Aphis  44-46 

Yellow  Scale  ...  .-29  and  30 


—105— 
MEMORANDA 


—106— 
MEMORANDA 


—107— 
MEMORANDA 


—108— 
MEMORANDA 


-109- 
MEMORANDA 


-110- 
MEMORANDA 


WATCH    OUT 
x  FOR  THE  :-: 

ALFALFA  WEEVIL 

Report  any  Strange  Insect  to  the 

County  Horticultural 

Commissioner 


DAY  AND  ^EST°50  C*NTS 

OVERDUE.  $1'°°    ON    THE 


KELLOW  a  BROY 
PRINTERS 

LOS  ANdElES.  CM 


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