How to plant and care for an orchard

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scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

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COMPLIMENTS OF

J. VAN LINDEET
NURSERY CO.

POMONA, © NORTH CAROLINA

FRUIT TREES OF ALL KINDS

Including Apple, Peach, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Persimmons, Apri-
cots, Nectarines, Mulberries, Quinces, Figs, Grapes, Straw-
berries, Raspberries, Currants, Gooseberries,

Blackberries, Nut-Bearing Trees, Shade
Trees, Evergreens, Shrubs, Roses, Etc.
All trees healthy, free of disease,
and Guaranteed True to Name.

SPECIALTIES

GENERAL NURSERY STOCK

APPLE, PEACH, PEAR and PLUM TREES for MARKET ORCHARDS
ORNAMENTALS

Special attention to the collection and propagation of such varieties
as are especially adapted to the many different sections of the
Southern States.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE

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INTRODUCTORY

So little attention is given to the proper planting and
cultivation of fruit trees that to a beginner, or even
with those of some experience, the business often seems
discouraging. There is positively no excuse for all the
failures in fruit growing, except pure neglect and lack

BARS BA of enlightenment along horticultural lines. The public
should be awakened to this important subject. Thousands of orchards go to
waste annually by neglect. Every person owning a home can have a healthy,
thrifty orchard, if he will follow the instructions given in this pamphlet. We
all know that fine fruit is produced. You can do it if you will give the
matter a small part of your time and attention.

It is our aim to set forth, as briefly as possibly, some of the advantages
in tree planting, especially fruit trees, also how to plant, and general treatment.

CONTENTS

Page
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What: Shall We Blam th vce ceresicg ore ae Yast) «049 56 eo) ae ner ee )

2 J. VAN LinpDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

WHY SHOULD WE PLANT TREES?

First. The increase in the value
of the farm. A well kept orchard
will make your place much more
valuable in more ways than one.
Who would not pay a great deal
more for a farm with a large,
healthy orchard than for one exactly
like it without the orchard.

Second. It pays to have fruit for
our health’s sake. Most of us eat

Worth Planning For too much meat and too little fruit.
Every one must admit that the free eating of fruit is healthful to us. Many
troublesome diseases are unknown to the free users of a largely vegetable
diet. Settlers in a new country improve in health as their orchards begin to
bear freely. |

Third. It is generally known that a healthy growth of trees and ever-
greens to the windward of a home will break the cold winds in winter and
afford shade and pleasure in the summer.

Fourth. It pays from the profits that are derived from selling your
surplus to the different towns in your vicinity.

Inhabitants of towns and villages become ready buyers of fancy fruit
and pay good prices for it. Often when you live in marketing distance of
a good town you can make more money off of your orchard than from any
other crop you can grow. We have in mind now two good towns in two
different counties. In one of these counties the people have taken considerable
interest in fruit growing. All through the summer and early fall fruit is
offered for sale on the streets of the first-named town. Some farmers realize
from $300 to $500 from just a few acres planted in strawberries, peaches,
pears, plums, apples, etc., while in the other town mentioned but little is
offered, but the people in this county are yet in the old way of raising one
crop, and are not so prosperous as the fruit growers.

Many a farmer with four or five acres in apples, peaches, pears and plums
realizes more profit from it in money, besides the pleasure of having the
fruit, than from all the balance of the farm.

It is easy to have fruit every month in the year. Commence in the spring
with currants, gooseberries, strawberries—just a few of each. Then come the
different varieties of apples, peaches, pears, plums, and other fruits, ripening
in succession from May until frost. In the meantime we can, by planting
nice preserving and canning fruit—such as the Keiffer pear and other things—
preserve and can up fruit to last through the winter, besides the apples which
ean be kept late in the fall and sometimes all winter. Then plant a few nut
trees—pecans, walnuts, ete. They are enormous bearers and their fruits find
ready sale,

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 3

Fifth. Last but not least, it will help to keep the farmer’s son at home,
by making home attractive. We believe that if the farmers would pay more
attention to the little pleasures of home life their boys and girls would not
be so anxious to leave home and go to the cities and towns, where there is
so much vice. There are but few boys that do not like fruit, and by having
this and by planting shade and ornamental trees, vines, roses, etc., it gives
the home a pleasant effect that will go a long ways toward keeping the
children satisfied. Give them a few trees of their own, for pleasure and
profit, and you will be well repaid.

SELECTING A PLACE FOR AN ORCHARD

In selecting a. place for an orchard often you can get experience from
some one in your locality in regard to kinds of land on which fruits succeed
best in your immediate section, but it is a wrong idea to plant fruit trees
on poor land if you expect good fruit. If you plant on poor land you must
fertilize or manure with something to feed the trees as you do corn, cotton
or any other crop—trees must have good soil and attention. An orchard
deserves the best land you have.

Whenever possible an orchard should have a northern or northwestern
exposure and be planted on well-elevated places.

KEEP A RECORD OF YOUR ORCHARD

In planting an orchard put down in a book just where this variety and
that variety can be found in your orchard. State the row it is in and num-
ber from a given end.

PLANT YOUNG, THRIFTY TREES FOR BEST RESULTS

One of the biggest mistakes with some 1s that they want large, overgrown
trees to plant. A tree one or two years old, that has been well grown by a
reliable nurseryman, will make a better tree in the long run, fruiting in a fewer
number of years, making a healthier tree, thereby longer lived, than a tree that
is larger and older when bought and transplanted. Get them with good roots.

HARDY TREES

It is an acknowledged fact here in healthy Piedmont North Carolina we
grow healthy and hardy trees. Our trees go to all parts of the Union and

I have the pleasure to acknowledge and thank you for the shrubs recently received.
They were in excellent condition, the soil around the roots being still quite damp, and I
trust they may live and furnish bearing testimony to your fair dealing with customers.
—Mrs. J. W. Eckford, Aberdeen, Miss.

Gentlemen: This is to certify that I have been buying trees from you for the past
ten years. Among one of the lots I bought from you was a Japan Walnut, which I
planted in the fall of 1904. It bore in the fall of 1907, and has been bearing annually
ever since. I consider it one of the best nuts I have ever seen for use in the South,
and I can cheerfully recommend your trees to those desiring to plant nursery stock.
—Thomas Lucas, ‘‘Glenn Burr Plantation,’’ Greenwood, Miss.

+ J. Van Linptey Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

have proven equally hardy everywhere. We are located intermediately as to
latitude and enjoy a large trade from our customers throughout the country.
Peach growers in the New England States are sending to us for their peach
trees. They have found by experience that our stock is free from yellows,
rosette, scale, ete. :

As there are all sorts of everything, so are there all sorts of trees. You
want good trees, well bred, healthy, hardy and true to name. Send your
orders to experts in this line for them.

HOW TO CARE FOR TREES BEFORE PLANTING

On receiving your trees it is not generally the case that you can plant
immediately. If you cannot plant immediately, ‘‘heel them in’’ in the ground
in the garden or some convenient place until you are ready to plant. Heel-
ing-in might be termed temporary planting, to preserve the roots until you
are ready to plant. One of the simplest ways to heel-in trees is to first dig
a trench about two feet wide and about one and one-half feet deep; open the
bunch of trees and spread them thinly in the trench, then fill in with loose
earth to about six inches above the point they grew in the nursery. Always
tramp the soil with the feet so that it will be in close contact with every
root. The same principle is to be observed in heeling-in small plants. Then
when you are ready to plant the trees
will be in good condition.

When they are properly heeled-in
they will keep in good condition for
several weeks.

/ ‘“One-half of the trees planted do
Z “not generally become well developed,
LZ productive specimens.’’ Assuming this
is true, what an enormous waste of

g J
i
& WT, Up money, time and hopes attend tree

Vee ee ho y planting! All this is uncalled for

Wij Yj
/ yj waste. By pursuing the right methods
MMMM Mh ) in planting and after care the average

Heeled In loss need not be one in ten.

Enclosed please find check to settle my account. The trees arrived in good shape.
—tTheron Earle, Greenville, S. C.

On March 21st, 1903, I sent you a check in payment of bill for fruit trees. I think
in this bill were two peach trees, and I am anxious to find out the name of the peach
so I may order some more of the same kind. There were never better peaches than
M. S. Willard, Wilmington,

I received bale of trees O. K. Fine trees.—J. G. Dayhoff, Midvale. Pa.

Received our trees in good condition this week. Am well pieased with them.—Richard
B. Hamilton, Holdenville, Oklahoma.

The trees I ordered of you arrived O. K. yesterday by express. The other parties and
myself are well pleased with them.—H. Guy Corbett, Afton, Va.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 5

HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING

1. Many persons plant a tree as they would a post. The novice in plant-
ing must consider that a tree is a living, nicely organized production, as
certainly affected by good treatment as an animal. Many an orchard of trees
tudely thrust into the ground, struggles half a dozen years against the adverse
condition before it recovers.

2. In planting an orchard,
let the ground be made mel.
low by repeated plowing. For
a tree of moderate size, the
hole should be dug three feet
in diameter and twelve to
twenty inches deep. Turn
over the soil several times. In
every instance the hole must
be large enough to admit all
the roots easily without bend-
ing, and the roots should go
in the hole as they grew in

at I \
STANT tee lu,

,

. S WyGsy (UI, ;

the nursery. They should all ve " eA re Mes NS ays
be straight and not cramped Se Aen CY,
and in masses. Shorten and Second Year ‘Third Year

pare smoothly with a knife The three cuts above show the bad effect of planting a tree with
any bruised or broken roots. the roots massed and tangled and without pruning the top.

Hold the tree upright while another person, making the soil fine, gradually
distributes it among the roots. Shake the tree gently while the filling is
going on. The main secret lies in carefully filling in the mould, so that

What prices can you make me on Greensboro Peach trees for November. shipment ?
I sold Greensboro peaches in Charlotte this week at $1.50 peck. Please mail me your
catalogue.—G. E. Woodruff, Croft, N. C.

_ Trees growing in my orchard purchased from J. Van Lindley Nursery Company, it
gives me pleasure to state, have given entire satisfaction. Mr. Lindley stands very
high in the profession as a nurseryman.—A. M. Bowman, Pres. Diamond Orchard Co.,
Salem, Va. (460 acres in fruit trees.)

Please give me price and number you can supply of the following varieties of peach
trees: Elberta, Mamie Ross, Carman, Belle of Georgia, Waddell and Greensboro. I do
hope you can let me have the trees I need, as I have found you reliable and stock true
to label. If it is so you can fill my order of 75,000 trees at a reasonable price, I prefer
giving you the order.—D. C. Turnipseed, Flora, Ala.

Will you please send me price list of your apple trees? Eleven years ago we
purchased 500 trees from your nursery, and they proved to be such good trees that
I wish to get your prices before placing order elsewhere, as I desire to give you the
order in preference to others, provided you have the varieties I want.—E. P. Davidson,
New Glasgow, Amherst County, Va.

Some years ago I bought some trees from you and in the lot was one Magnolia Pear
tree, which is now bearing. Last year the tree bore a fair crop, and some of the
specimens measured 18 3-4 inches in circumference. I kept two of them through the
winter up to the 13th of last April perfectly sound. I think the Magnolia Pear the
finest I ever saw for size. beauty, color and taste. What could you sell me 1000 for?
—C. C. Bearden. Inman, §

6 J. VAN LINDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

Second Year Third Year

__The three cuts above show the good effect of proper transplanting. The roots are placed in the ground
straight and as they grew in the nursery and the tops pruned.

every root, and even the smallest fibre, may meet the soil; and to secure this,
let the operator, with his hand, spread out the small roots and fill in the earth
nicely around every one. Nine-tenths of the deaths by transplanting arise from the
hollows left among the roots of the trees by a rapid and careless mode of shoveling
the earth among the roots. .

3. When the hole is two-thirds full pour in a pail or two of water. This will
settle the soil and fill up vacancies that remain. Wait until the water has sunk
away and then fill up the hole, pressing the earth moderately around the tree with
the foot. The moist earth, being covered by the loose surface soil, will retain
its humidity for a long time. Indeed, we rarely ever find it necessary to water
again after planting in this way, and a little muck or litter placed around the
tree upon the newly moved soil will render it quite unnecessary. Frequent surface
watering is highly injurious, as it causes the top of the soil to bake so hard
as to prevent the access of light and air, both of which, in a certain degree, are
absolutely necessary.

4, Avoid the prevalent error (so common and fatal in this country) of plant-
ing your trees too deep. They should not be planted more than one inch deeper
than they stood before. See cuts.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD |

5. If your soil is positively bad, remove it from the hole and substitute
a cart load or two of good garden mould. Do not forget that plants must
have food. Five times the common growth may be realized by preparing
holes six feet in diameter and twice the usual depth, enriching and improv-
ing the soil by the plentiful addition of good compost. Young trees can not
be expected to thrive well in sod land. When a young orchard must be kept
in grass a circle should be kept dug around each tree. But cultivation of
the land will cause the trees to advance more rapidly in five years than they
will in ten when it is allowed to remain in grass,

DISTANCE FOR PLANTING

Often trees are planted too close, thereby retarding their growth and
development. Following you will find a table giving distances apart for
fruit trees: |

Staugarad Apples ‘23% 25S. Wess oh eee 25 to 30 feet apart each way.
eS hfe os oa ais aah ws CON ee ne oS ee ag ae 15102206 es pense Tee
Dlamdard. Pears... >. samegs ones See. oa. vale Dips ae as sy ath is
Dayar: Pode s 3). 5. SI ee eek. Foes Shshe Lh ea ag Org out
Chernes and. Nectarines 3.5 2.2.2 ..5.c. pee koa tate 7A dee iis sis <i
Piperts. ail Arie Obs) (953 aid aios eee oes «2 oe ht ape tat as SOOtES
Japanese oF las. co 2..5 > tele tote Ee es tea! ib? hos bie oh! ay eee as
QING OS oe Ee jee wrt: Re dm Lenin AO ely Sena o aa a Pant Pia a ae
SPA: VOR Pa iricc ae egies Sia ee ee opel ck $0 TO" 0, ae ets
Gooseberries and Raspberries ................. 4 <6 ge Eee
Pecans s30-F5 8532 MUSE dN VN PESTO LESS 3S 35 to 40 ‘‘ sg os

Observe this rule strictly and your orchard will look pretty and symmetrical.

Few kinds of trees or plants—none in the fruit class—succeed in wet land.
A soil too wet for any crop is too wet for trees. This may be known if water
stands in the furrows for a week or more after the frost has left the earth
or after a rain has ceased. If you wish to plant such land drain it first.
Some land is naturally underdrained, some is sufficiently undulating to let
the surface water flow off rapidly and obviate the need of any applied drainage.

Dear Sirs: Fourteen years ago I bought of you a bill of trees, including apples,
peaches, plums, ete. They have all borne nicely and have exceeded my highest expecta-
tions. Preston and Chinese Cling are the finest I ever saw. My trees are all still living
and bearing nicely this year. I have given you two orders since and take pleasure in
Pecan wUIne you to anyone wanting first-class nursery stock.—C. E. Feigler, Minter

ity, Miss.

Dear Sir: This is to certify that I have been buying trees from the J. Van Lindley
Nursery Company for the past ten years, and it gives me great pleasure to say that I
have been well pleased and they have given me entire satisfaction in every particular.
I desire to call special attention to the Shockley Apple, which is a fine bearer and a
good keeper; have kept them until May the 17th. The Arkansas Mammoth Black
exceeded my expectations. I exhibited specimens, grown from trees bought of you,
which measured 13 3-4 inches in circumference, at the Yazoo County Fair, also the
State Fair at Jackson last fall, and they took the first premium at both places, over
all competitors.—Rev. J. W. Woods, R. F..D. No. 2, Benton, Miss.

I beg to acknowledge receipt of my order of trees, and beg to inform you that they
arrived in good condition. Thanking you for the splendid specimens you sent me, I
am.—w. C. Earnhardt, Greenville, S. C.

8 J. VAN LinpLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

PRUNING AT TIME OF PLANTING

We have directed your attention to the preparation of
the soil and other important matters so necessary to suc-
cessful tree culture, and will now speak of pruning—
equally as important. Most people desire a fine top from
the day of planting. All of their attention is given to
the top, consequently they have an unbalanced tree—top
heavy. They argue
that to prune spoils
the looks of the tree,

EE
t

.
LEELA ELAN INN PEP PEN YI YY
NOT VRS CNY sa |
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* ate EES “3

occa <>

Newly set Apple or Pear
Tree, ready to be
pruned

Same pruned

(Cut reduced )

and their trees are sure to be out of
balance—more top than root, and
more top than roots can support. Brig his ss mor
First give your attention to the roots, ‘
secure a good foundation, and you can then make the top — :

what you please. In digging trees, especially fruit trees, it Same pruned

is impossible to preserve all the roots, consequently we have

an unbalanced tree, and the way to overcome this is to do away with some of
the top. Fig. 2 shows a young tree after digging, with part of its roots left
in the ground, hence unbalanced. Fig. 3 shows the top pruned, thus making
a balance and making the roots equal to the task of supporting the top. In
evergreens, shrubs, etc., most of the roots are generally dug with the tree,
consequently little or no pruning is required. Trees having but few roots
should be cut back more than those having many.

I have just given your agent another order for trees for delivery this fall. I have
purchased trees from you for the past two years and I am very well pleased with my
trade and treatment in every way. The nursery stock delivered was the finest I ever
saw sent out, and your agents (Mr. Kernodle and Mr. Shoffeitt) very gentlemanly and
pleasing men. You are to be congratulated on your agents in this section, and I am
glad I bought trees through them. Mayflower Peach trees I received in 1906 are fruiting
nicely this year. Grape vines and the other fruits, apples, pears, quinces, cherries, etc.,
doing fine. I am pleased in the superlative degree.—J. W. Martin, Montgomery, Ala.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 9

FERTILIZATION

(4
=< I)

NN Do not put any fertilizer in the hole with the
roots, but put it in after the tree
has gotten a start. While the
tree is young and growing ferti-
lizer analyzing about as follows
should be used: Eight per cent.
acid, five per cent. nitrogen or
ammonia, two per cent. potash.
After the tree comes into bear-
ing condition, you want to use
_ Strawberry properly and improperly set less nitrogen and more potash, as
follows: Eight per cent. acid, four per cent. nitrogen, four per cent. potash.
For large trees in good ground, where you have plenty of growth, make it
about eight, three, ten; if not enough growth, make it eight, five, eight. No
manure should be put in the holes with the roots, but apply later.
Would suggest that you write the United States Department of Agri-
eulture, Washington, for the following free bulletins:

<A GS
bay

<S LS [LD SS = S
Fp ap
— Hy me

No. 44, Commercial Fertilizers, Composition and Use.

No. 192, Barnyard Manure.

No. 245, Renovation of Wornout Soils.

No. 257, Soil Fertility.

No. 278, Leguminous Crops for Green Manuring.

‘*If a man is unwilling to feed and curry his orchard he need not expect
thoroughbred results.’’—Tim.

WHAT SHALL WE PLANT?

This depends on what you are going to plant for—whether a family
orchard, a local market orchard, or an orchard the fruit from which is to be
shipped to the larger cities.

Every one planting a family orchard should have a few strawberry plants
—a hundred or two to begin with, a bush or two of currants and gooseberries,
a dozen or more raspberries and the same amount of nice grapes. We mention
these small fruits, as they come into bearing so quickly and give the required
results so much earlier than larger fruits. At the same time, begin your
orchard of apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such other fruit and nut trees
as you may fancy. The small fruits will give you fruit while the above-
mentioned large fruits are coming into bearing. All family orchards should

You_will find enclosed postoffice money order. We are all well pleased with the
trees.—L. J. French, Beaufort, N. C.

A few years ago I bought some Mayflower Peaches from your agent, M. D. Herring.
The trees are now in bearing and I find them to be the earliest of all early peaches.
They are now ripe (May 15). Besides being a beautiful red, they have a_good flavor.
I have been buying trees from your nursery for several years and they have always
given perfect satisfaction.—G. L. Alexander, Cordova, Ala.

10 J. VAN LinpLEy Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

contain a few Japanese plums—just as many as you can afford to plant.
They begin to bear very early, sometimes bearing in nursery row at two
years of age, and when you transplant them properly and give good atten-
tion you will probably get a small crop the first year after planting, and
good crops the second and third years. They bear enormously, the fruit stick-
ing to the limbs sometimes almost as thick as grapes. The quality is very
fine—there is no fruit with finer quality than Japanese plums.

One of the most useful fruits is the Keiffer pear. They bear enormous
erops at an early age and can always be relied on. The tree is a rapid grower
and very hardy. The fruit ripens late and is a better eating pear when pulled
and laid away for a couple of weeks. Under the right conditions it can be
kept until Christmas, but the best thing about it is its canning, cooking and
preserving qualities. It is superior for this purpose to all others.

For a fair sized family orchard, giving you fruit twelve months in the
year, we would suggest the following. If you wish more, so much the better;
if you can’t plant as many, plant half or one-fourth:

200 Strawberries. 30 Apples (Summer, Fall and Winter
6 Currants. varieties).
6 Gooseberries. 30 Peaches (earliest to latest).

12 Raspberries. 12 Plums (mostly Japan varieties).

24 Grapes. 12 Pears.

And such other fruit as you may faney. This number of trees would not
give you an over supply of fruit and should be increased from year to year.
If you do not feel able to plant all the above in one season, you could plant
half one season and half the next. If you will continue planting on the above
plan from year to year, adding other things which you may desire—such as
cherries, apricots, mulberries, quinces, figs, blackberries, asparagus, and rhu-
barb (pie plant), then you can plant a few shade trees, shrubs, evergreens
and nut trees; beautify the yard with roses and flowers, and you will soon
have a farm and home that is a pleasure to own and live at—one that will
have a charm for your boys and keep them at home and make it pleasant for
them.

As to a local market orchard it is hard to say just what to plant, as some
things do well in some sections and not so well in others. But there is generally
enough fruit in your section to give you this information. An acre or two
of strawberries, where they do well, affords as much revenue as most anything

Gentlemen: Having purchased from you a small orchard of about one hundred
trees of your different varieties of peaches, I feel it a duty I owe both to you and myself
to report. The trees were set out in December, 1904, but were then in the fall of 1905
transplanted in another orchard and cut back, therefore could not bear until this year.
On the 5th of May we commenced eating the Mayflower. As it comes at a time when we
have no other fruit, we of course thought it the finest peach that we ever grew. It is
surely an elegant peach, both in beauty and flavor, but to be candid, my favorite is the
Admiral Dewey. I think it the finest peach that I have ever seen, and I have had an orchard
for thirty years. The Dewey is now in full blast. It is not only beautiful in color, but
delicious in flavor. The orchard is only for home consumption and since the first of May,
I might say, we have had all the delicious peaches we wanted and supplied our neighbors,
with a promise of its continuing to do so until October, when I hope to be able to make as
favorable a report on later varieties—O. A. Wiggins, Robinson Springs, Miss.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 11

else, and they will be bearing and bringing you in money before your trees
come into bearing. They are usually marketed in quart baskets made for the
purpose, which can be bought for a trifle. An acre of strawberries sells all
the way from $100 to $200 or more. This is not simply talk but facts, and
just what some farmers are doing every year. Other small fruit should be
planted for our local markets, such as raspberries, blackberries, and grapes,
all of which find a ready sale.

Fancy peaches, pears, apples and plums can be grown with much profit,
and they will sell all through their season.

Aim to grow your fruit to perfection. If it puts on too thick on the trees,
thin out half of it when the fruit is the size of the end of your finger; this
will let the specimens left grow to a perfect and large size, which will sell
for more and make more fruit than if all were left on the trees. This is
especially applicable to peaches. Apples, pears, and plums do not generally
need so much thinning.

In marketing fruit it should be put up neat and handled with great care.
A peck of fruit in a neat, fancy package, with all the bad specimens out,
will sell for more than two pecks in bad shape, put up in an unsightly manner
and package.

Unsprayed (at left) and Sprayed (at right) Wine Sap Apples, from J. W. Spainhour,
King, N. C. Mr. Spainhour sent these as fair AVERAGE (not selected) samples, show-
ing the difference between fruit on sprayed and unsprayed trees. Four-fifths of actual
size. (Photo by Z. P. Metcalf, Raleigh, N. C.) Courtesy N. C. Dept. of Agriculture,
Raleigh, Franklin Sherman, Jr., Entomologist. :

12 J. VAN LINDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

FIFTY TREES THAT WILL GIVE YOU FRUIT NEARLY
EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR

This list has been gotten together after years of study and experiments,
and is a bonanza for every one who owns a home. If the proper methods
are followed it will give you fruit nearly every month in the year. You can
not afford to be without it. It is not a question of whether or not you can
afford to buy them, but a question of whether or not you can afford to do with-
out them. We believe the majority of home owners who have the welfare
of their families at heart, and who would add a permanent value to their
homes, will say, after looking over this list, that they cannot afford not to
have it. We give you the fifty trees, composed of 22 peach, 14 apple, 8 Japan
plums, and 6 pears, ripening in succession from June till frost.

Give us your order for these fifty trees, plant and care for them accord-
ing to the instructions given in our catalogue or pamphlet, and they will
give you better returns than any other thing you can add to your home.

There are many varieties from which the selections could be made, but
we would recommend the list be made from the following varieties:

Peaches: 20.
2 Mayflower, Victor or Sneed.
2 Yellow Swan, Arp Beauty, Greensboro, or Alexander.
2 Carman, Camelia, Connett’s Early, or Mamie Ross.
2 Hiley, Family Favorite or Niagara. |
2 Belle of Georgia or Champion.
2 Chinese, Burke, Stonewall Jackson, or Preston Cling.
2 Elberta or New Prolific.
2 Matthew’s Beauty, Lyndon Cling, Nina, or Augbent.
2 Salway, White English Cling or Haton’s Gold.
2 Stinson’s or Gladstone.

Two each of the above ten groups will give you peaches without a break
for nearly five months.

Apples: 14.

2 May, Early Colton, or Early Harvest.

2 Yellow Transparent, Red Astrachan or Red June.

2 Star or Hames.

2 Horse or Summer Banana.

2 Bonum, Buckingham, Rome Beauty, or Grimes’ Golden.
Winter varieties for Piedmont and Mountain Sections.

2 Winesap, Ben Davis or Stayman’s. .

2 York Imperial, Arkansaw or Winter Banana.
Winter apples for cotton belt or flat country..

2 Springdale, Yates, or Terry.

2 Fonville, Shockley, or Pine Stump.

I received my trees today in perfect condition and am well pleased with them. Your
firm is the most reliable I ever had dealings with, and will give you further orders,
as the trees are nice.—H. O. Collier, Clinton, Miss.

How TO PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 13

Pinms:.” 8.

We give here four varieties or groups of Japan plums which ripen in
succession, commencing with the early peaches and continuing almost with-
out a break for two months. For a small outlay you can have this delicious
fruit, which is unequalled in flavor and bearing qualities. They are very
young and enormous bearers, coming in with good crops second year after
planting. We recommend:

2 Red June. 2 Burbank or Chabot.
2 Abundance or Shiro. 2 Wickson.
Cherry: 2.

Black Tartarian, sweet, or Early Richmond, sour.

Pears: 6.
1 Koonce or Harly Harvest. 1 Garber.
1 Bartlet or Seckel. 2 Keiffer.

1 Duchess or LeConte.

See our catalogue for more extended list of varieties.

With the proper attention these fifty trees will give you ripe fruit from
June till Christmas; then if the surplus is made into preserves and canned
fruit you can easily have fruit on your table every day in the year. Think
of the enormous advantage of it. Fruit is a most healthful diet. You can’t
possibly afford not to avail yourself of the opportunity of giving us an order
for these fifty trees. Special price on request.

A 4
CLARA Di

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7 wD.
7a i 7 < g : ie POR t Usa
STAT : 1 Pe g \ ps “10.
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Photograph of 38-year-old Red June Plum Tree in fruit

Taken at our grounds. Young and prolific bearer; quality fine; tree hardy

14 J. VAN LINDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

If it is desired to plant one hundred trees, the list can easily be made up
from the above varieties, adding such others as you may wish. Should any
one wish a list of less number of trees than fifty, we will make out the list,
giving you varieties ripening in succession as far as possible and as near all
through the season as possible.

FURTHER REMARKS ON THE JAPANESE PLUMS

The introduction of new fruits, native and foreign, for the past few years
has marked a wonderful revolution in fruit growing. Many gaps have been
filled where heretofore we have had no fruit.

Chief among these introductions are the Japanese plums. They are really
the greatest acquisition we have had in the fruit line for years. Commenc-
ing to ripen with the earliest peaches, they continue on from June to August.
The first to ripen is Ogon; then in succession, we have Red June, Shiro,
Abundance, Sultan, Burbank, Chabot, Wickson, White Kelsey, and others.

These plums have proven to be a grand success. They have been fruited
all over the South, and even successfully as far north as New York State.
They bear more good fruit at the earliest age of any fruit in cultivation.

CULTIVATE YOUR TREES AND KEEP THEM IN A
HEALTHY STATE

While it is vitally important to
plant a tree right and get it started
off right, yet it is equally important
that the tree should have careful
after management and cultivation.
Like any other crop, they have to
be cultivated, kept clean, and fed.
Without this you cannot expect
fancy fruit and healthy, long-lived
trees. If you do not make up your Good tillage
mind to do this, better not plant any trees. If weeds and briars are allowed
to grow around trees, they soon become unhealthy and die. Make it a
point to cultivate your orchard at given times, just the same as you do your
corn, cotton, or tobacco crops. Cultivation should be shallow, two or three
inches at most. No crop in orchard should be closer than four or five feet to
trees. Do not cultivate after August lst. Let new wood harden up.

The shrubs to hand in good ordér, and I wish to express my thanks for such fine
specimens.—Mrs. J. Frank McCubbins, Salisbury, N. C

All the fruit trees I purchased of you last winter lived, except one. The others are
growing beautifully. Two of the Mayflower Peach trees, much to my surprise, had
fruit on them, one tree having nine and the other two peaches. They are now ripening
and are about two inches in diameter. Got three nice, fully ripe ones today, May 22nd,
and others will be ripe by tomorrow. They are fine peaches and I am well pleased..
—wW. A. Willson, Jr., Wilmington, N. C.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 15

LATER PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES

‘‘Pruning is a necessity where the best results are to be expected from
fruit trees. An unpruned tree can never give fruit of the best color and
quality. In the most healthy and fruitful trees branches become weakened
and die. If these are not removed they soon become a harboring place for
insects and fungous diseases which prey upon the tree and its fruit. Even

Cutting “to” abud Where branches do not die the foliage becomes so thick
that it excludes light and air and the fruit does not color
well. Pruning is necessary, therefore, where first-class
fruit is desired. With even the best-tilled trees if we cease
our pruning for a few years the fruit becomes small, loses
its bright colors and fine flavor and
becomes of little value. Unpruned
orchards all over the country give
WN striking examples of this fact. Any
tree with a good, sound trunk can, by
proper pruning, be
put into fruiting
condition. It can-
not, however, with
safety to the tree,

be done all in one year.
The reclaiming process
of trees badly in need
of pruning should take Curses
two or three years. The
first year the suckers at the base, all of the
dead limbs and a few of the worst offending
branches should be removed. ‘The second
season more of the unnecessary branches ee
ean be cut out. By leaving the best limbs
and by a judicious selection of resulting water sprouts the tree
will in a year or so have vigorous branches and healthy fruit spurs.

‘‘Prune Every Year.—To get the best results with pruning it ed
should be done every year.. By the removal of a dead branch LE Oe
here or a stray limb there, trees can be kept in good, healthy, ¥romé ! is right
fruiting condition and it will never be necessary to cut out large limbs or
shock the tree by very heavy pruning. A few days in early spring will suffice
for the light pruning necessary in orchards that are trimmed annually. Prun-
ing consists more in directing the growth each year than in checking it by
one heavy cutting which is to make up for years of neglect. From the sap
of a tree is manufactured both its wood and its fruit. It is better, therefore,
_by judicious pruning, to direct the energies of the tree towards
the production of fruit which goes to market rather than the
growing of wood which goes to the brush pile. Trees should
be so formed and shaped when young that in later years prun-
ing should be only slight and it would never be necessary to
eut out many branches or large limbs.

‘‘Forming the Young Tree.—During its early years a young

Pruning a side

branch tree should be allowed to bear a large amount of foliage. The

16 J. VAN LINDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

more leaves it has the more wood it is
able to form and the quicker it comes to
maturity. If the tree is quite young and
whip-like its side buds should be allowed
to produce leaves all the way up the stem.
This will cause it to thicken up and be-
come stout and stocky. If the tree is old
enough to have a good, stout stem, the
side shoots may be removed and the
energy of the tree directed towards the
formation of the head. As far as consis-
tent with cultivation a fruit tree should
have a low, spreading head. This facili-
tates spraying and greatly reduces the
cost of harvesting the fruit, and there is
less loss from storms. Fruit trees used 3
to be grown with long trunks and high °~- ~
tops. Nowadays, owing to the use of im-
proved cultivators with extension paris
for working under the trees, they are as-
suming the form of bushes with little or
no. trunk.-, Younus ‘trees sahonid not er) ero fee Excorep- iy ipeeaed
started with too many main limbs, as afterwards they thicken up and crowd
each other and make it necessary to cut out very large limbs. The cutting
of large limbs leaves large wounds which take long to heal and usually before
they are healed a hole has started and the trunk of the tree becomes hollow.
Three, or at most four, main limbs, if properly placed, are enough for any
fruit tree. The side branches should be so disposed that they fill up the
space between so as to form a symmetrical, spreading head. Pruning should
at no time be heavy, and only such limbs as are misplaced should be cut out.
When limbs cross and rub one another one should be removed. One limb
should not be allowed to grow over another too closely in a parallel direction
so that one shades the other.

**Cut Close and Leave No Stubs.—In removing a branch from a tree care
should be taken that a close cut is made so that no stub is left. It is best
to cut close even though a larger wound is made, than to leave a stub. The
stub dies so that the wound cannot heal over and later a hole is formed which
will rot out the heart of the tree. It is a good practice to smear over cut
surfaces with ordinary paint. This excludes rain and preserves the wood
until the wound is entirely healed. Care should be taken in trimming trees
to avoid tearing the bark or leaving ragged wounds. Torn or ragged surfaces
never heal and cover over well.

It gives me pleasure to commend the J. Vau Lindley Nursery Company. It is old
and well established and has given satisfactory results in our community.—Rev. J. E.
Jones, Southampton County, Va.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 17

**Time to Prune.—Pruning is best done when the trees are dormant. The
best time is in spring before the buds start. Pruning should not be done
in freezing weather. Frost-bitten wounds are slow to heal. The most rapid
healing growth is made just as the sap is starting into active movement in
spring. Wounds made at this time heal quicker than at any other time of
the year.

*‘Pruning Tools.—The best tool for general trimming is a saw. It should
have a narrow blade and fine teeth which are widely set for working in green
wood. Pruning shears of the long-handled, powerful type are not nearly as
good as a saw for trimming, for they crush the bark and make ragged-edged
wounds.

‘*Pruning the Peach.—To properly prune a peach tree it should be annually
headed back, especially when young. If this is not done the tree produces
a lot of long, slender branches that have poorly developed fruit buds. Such
pruning thins the fruit and also causes the remaining fruit buds to develop
and the tree to thicken up and become strong and stocky. In this heading-
back pruning not more than one-fourth to one-third of the length of the last
growth should be cut off. Too heavy heading-back would very materially
lessen the crop of fruit.

‘*Pruning the Pear.—Pear trees if unpruned will grow like Lombardy poplars.
They should be headed down to make them low topped and the last bud left
at the top of the shoot should point outward so as to cause the head to spread.
About half of the new growth should be cut off every year and the outside
bud left to continue the growth. Such pruning followed for three or four
years will give a pear tree with a strong, round, fruitful top.

PRUNING POINTERS

Start the tree right.

Do not cut out large limbs. ©

Keep your tools sharp.

Do not prune in freezing weather.

Never leave stubs in cutting off limbs. Cut close to shoulder.
Prune annually but never heavily.

Many water sprouts are the result of too heavy pruning.

An axe or hatchet is not a pruning tool.

Don’t leave your pruning to the hired man.

10. Keep the tree free from suckers.

11. Paint over the larger wounds.

12. Never allow stock to prune your trees.

13. Unpruned, uncultivated and unsprayed orchards are not money-makers.’’
’ —Prof. Hutt.

ee FS a el eee eS

Will you please send me a copy of your latest catalogue on fruit and ornamental
trees? The trees bought of you two years ago are the finest I ever saw. They are in
fine fix and I think will bear a pretty good crop of peaches this year.—(Dr.) Howard
E. Felton, Cartersville, Ga. .

18 J. VAN LINDLEY NursERY Co., Pomona, N. C.

THINNING

‘‘Tf we can annually reduce the num-
ber of seeds which a tree endeavors to
grow, we remove a great vital drain =~
upon the strength of both tree and soil. 2
We save fertilizer, and we ¥
save tree vitality. Incident-
ally, we accomplish equally as,
PEACHES TOO THICK ONTHIS important secondary results. saws BRANCH PROPERLY

EIGHTEEN-INCH BRANCH By removing, say one-half of THINNED
the baby fruit on a tree, the remainder is enabled to grow to larger and more
profitable size; and next season the tree, not having exhausted itself the
previous year, is in proper condition to bear another crop, and helps to insure
full crops every year.

‘<The time to do the work is after the June drop is about over and before
the seeds have hardened. Often it is necessary to pull off, by hand, almost
two-thirds of the fruit on a heavily set tree; yet, strange as it may seem to
those who have not tried it, the remaining one-third, at picking time, will fill
almost as many bushels as the fruit of a similar tree unthinned. Which would
be most profitable, ten bushels of ‘mediums’ or eight or nine bushels of
‘extra large’? It frequently pays to hire help to do the thinning.’’—Biggle.

SPRAYING

Having received numerous requests for information on spraying, we have
decided to offer the following on same, believing it to be simple and effective.
We have not undertaken to go into the reasons for this and that, but give
the formulas and directions as simply as possible to be effective.

It would seem that the time has come when the man who would get the
best results from his orchard and vineyard must spray, and, if the spraying
is done according to the following formulas and directions, gratifying results
are bound to follow, as has been proven by ourselves and other large orchardists.

First, we give directions for making the Bordeaux Mixture, which at one
time was the groundwork of all spray mixtures, except for scale, as follows:

‘*Put the bluestone in a cloth sack and hang it in a tub or keg of water,
so that it is just below the surface. In this way it will dissolve much more
rapidly than if thrown in so that it sinks to the bottom. Warm or hot water
will dissolve it much more rapidly than cold. Put this to dissolve the evening
before it is intended to spray, and it will dissolve by morning. Use a wooden
receptacle. After the bluestone has dissolved, add water to make 25 gallons
(if there is not that amount already).

‘<Slake the lime slowly (preferably with hot water), and when completely
slaked, add water to make 25 gallons. Keep this in a separate keg or barrel.

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 19

‘“We now have 25 gallons of bluestone solution and 25 gallons of the
lime solution. Now take equal parts of these solutions and pour them together
into a third tub or barrel. Do not pour a bucketful of one into a half-barrel
of the other, but always mix them in equal proportions. This little point of
always mixing them in equal proportions results in a better mixture than when
they are carelessly mixed. Always stir the solution well before dipping it
out, so that the liquid you take out will be fully charged with the ingredients
of the solution.’’—Sherman.

Apples.—‘‘To give a good all-round protection requires from three to five
sprayings each season, as follows:

1. Winter Spraying—Use commercial lime-sulphur wash at rate of 1 gal.
to 10 gal. water, or, if you prefer, you may make your own lime-sulphur wash
at strength of 15 lb. lime, 15 lb. sulphur to 50 gal. water.

2. As Buds Open—Use commercial lime-sulphur at rate of 1% gal. to 50
gal. water and add 2 lb. arsenate of lead. (We do not regard this treatment as
absolutely necessary, but it does good and will pay if one can get it done.)

3. Just After Blossoms Fall, Promptly—Use commercial lime-sulphur 1%4
gal. to 50 gal. water and add 2 lb. arsenate of lead. (The one most important
treatment.)

4. Three to Four Weeks Later—Use the Bordeaux Mixture at rate of 4 lb.
lime, 3 lb. bluestone to 50 gal. water and add 2 lb. arsenate of lead.

5. Summer Spraying, Ten Weeks Later—Use the same as in the previous
treatment.’ ’—Sherman.

Pears.—For pears, as a rule, two sprayings will suffice, the winter spraying
and No. 3.

Peach and Plum.—

1. Winter Spraying—See special instructions ‘‘To Kill San Jose Scale’’
given below.

2. Just After Petals Fall, Promptly—Use lime-sulphur solution, 1% gal. to
50 gal. water and add 2 lb. arsenate of lead.

3. Ten Days or Two Weeks Later—Same as above. Continue about every
two weeks, stopping four weeks before varieties ripen.

To Kill San Jose Scale.—We use the lime-sulphur solution for this. At one
time we prepared it ourselves, but found that we could buy it ready prepared,
so that all you had to do was to put 1 gallon of the mixture into 10 gallons
of water and go to spraying. There are, no doubt, other makes possibly as
good, but we get ours for spraying our_commercial orchard at Southern Pines,
Moore County, N. C., from the Thomsen Chemical Co., Baltimore, Md., and
have found it cheap and efficient. You can order it direct, or possibly some
dealer in your town carries it in stozk. This material (1 gallon lime-sulphur
solution and 10 gallons of water) should be sprayed on the trees when they
are in a dormant condition during the late fall, winter or early spring. Spray-
ing once a year will not only keep the scale in check, so that it will not hurt
tree or fruit, but it does the tree good, as it cleans off all fungus.

If you are unable to get any of the ready made preparations, you can

20 J. VAN LinpDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

make your own, as follows: Put about 8 gallons. water and 20 pounds unslaked
lime into a pot, on a fire. After the lime slakes, it will form a paste. Also
put 20 pounds sulphur into a vessel, with enough water to form a paste.
When the lime water begins to boil, put in the sulphur paste and stir
thoroughly. Boil this mixture continuously about an hour, till it is a red-
brick color, stirring constantly. After the mixture has boiled properly, add
enough water to make 60 gallons. Strain through a coarse cloth and apply
while warm. Mr. Sherman recommends only 15 lb. each, lime and sulphur.

It pays to spray a peach orchard with this lime-sulphur solution each winter,
even if you do not have any scale. Pruning should be done before spraying.

Grape Vines.—‘‘The Bordeaux Mixture is very offensive to insects, and
actually destructive to some, especially their eggs, and a universal preventive
of fungus germination when in contact, and all the insects worthy of serious
attention, except the leaf hopper and berry worms, are destroyed by arsenical
poisons on the foliage, hence one general line of treatment is sufficient for all.
It is as follows: 1. With simple solution of bluestone, 1 lb. to 25 gallons of
water, spray the trellises in every part, the ground and the vines in the vine-
yard thoroughly, early in winter, or, at any rate, before buds push. 2. Just
before blooming time, spray thoroughly with Bordeaux, 3 lbs. bluestone, 3 lbs.
fresh lime, 2 lbs. arsenate of lead, to 50 gallons water. 3. Spray again in 9
or 10 days after second application, or just after vines have bloomed, with
same material. 4. Spray again just after grape harvest with same material
as No. 2, to keep down late mildew and leaf folder. If any spraying is done
between 3 and 4, use no arsenical poisons in them. Be careful to use no
arsenate after it is one-fourth grown, as poisoning might possibly result from
application made near ripening time. If sprayed as directed, no harm may
be feared. All spraying preparations should be kept constantly labeled
‘poison’, and care be used in handling and applying.’’—Munson.

How to Apply Spray Mixtures.—The sprays applied either for insects or
fungi to be thoroughly efficient must be not only of proper chemicals, make
and strength, but in the form of a fog, so as to move all among the foliage
and fruit, reaching every part. This requires high-pressure force pumps of
good make, brass or brass lined, and proper nozzles, that evenly distribute the
spray. You can get these from various manufacturers. A knapsack sprayer
will answer for family orchards and vineyards up to half an acre, but a
power sprayer is more economical for commercial orchards and vineyards. A
sprayer that sprinkles instead of fogs is very inefficient and unsatisfactory.

For further and more detailed information on spraying write your State
Agricultural Department, or Department of Horticulture, Washington, D. C.

The roses reached me safely on Tuesday in good condition. Thanking you for your
courtesy to me while at your nursery and for your promptness.—Mrs. C. H. Herty,
Chapel Hill, N. C.

I have just received the trees and vines. They came up all satisfactory, and I am
highly pleased with your kind favor.—A. H. Sims, Orange, Miss.

Trees arrived in fine shape and all delivered. Customers pleased.—Emory Kelbaugh,
Smithsburg, Md.

How TO PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD PAL

GRAPES

The grape is the most beautiful of all fruits, and the most highly esteemed
for its many uses. It can be secured by every one who has a garden, a yard
or a wall. It can be confined to a stake, bound to trellis, trained over an
arbor or extended until it covers a large tree or building, and still yield its
graceful bunches and luscious blooming clusters. Capable of more extraordi-
nary results, under wise management, it is prone also to give disappointment
under bad culture or neglect. Other fruits may be had from plants that
know no care; but the grape is only to be had through attention and fore-
thought. We will endeavor to point out a few essential points in its successful
culture, and refer the cultivator to other and more extended works for more
details.

Soils—Good grapes are grown on various soils—sandy, clayey, loamy, ete.
The soil must be well drained, and there should be a free exposure to the sun
and air. Hillsides unsuitable for other- crops are good places for grapes.

Crops.—Crop grapes moderately if you would have fine, well-ripened fruit.
A vine is capable of bringing only a certain amount of fruit to perfection,
proportioned to its size and strength; but it usually sets more fruit than 1t
‘tan mature. Reduce the crop early in the season to a moderate number of
good clusters and cut off the small inferior bunches; the remainder will be
worth much more than the whole would have been. A very heavy crop is
usually a disastrous one.

Pruning.—Annual and careful pruning is essential to the production of
good grapes. If the roots are called upon to support too much, they can not
bring to maturity a fine crop of fruit. The pruning should be done in Decem-
ber or January, while the vines are entirely dormant.

Training Vines.—There are many
methods of training grape vines, but
as trellises are more generally em-
ployed, we will confine our sug-
gestion to a description of the trellis
method. To construct a trellis, take
post oak, cedar, or chestnut, 8 to
10 feet long; set them 3 feet in the
ground and about 12 feet apart;
stretch No. 9 galvanized wire tightly
along the posts and fasten them to each. Let the first wire be 18 inches
from the ground and the distance between the wires about 12 inches. Wooden
slats about 1 by 2 inches may be substituted for wires. Trellises should be
at least 10 feet apart—a greater distance is preferable. Set the vines about
10 to 20 feet apart. Prune the vines to two canes each for two years after they
are planted. In February or March these canes should he cut back to five
or six feet each and tied along the lower wire or slat of the trellis, horizontally.

Fruited Grape Vine

a2 J. VAN LinpLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

When the growth commences in the spring, the young shoots must be
reduced by disbudding, so that they may stand about a foot apart on the
cane, selecting, of course, strong, healthy shoots. As they grow they are
tied up to the second, third, or fourth wire or slat, and all other superfluous
ones are removed as well as the young laterals which will appear on vigorous
vines; but the fruit-bearing shoots are allowed to extend themselves at will.
The vine in the summer with the fruit on will present the appearance of the
preceding cut, and before pruning in the autumn, after the leaves are off,
the following appearance:

The next pruning, which may be done in
December or January, if it is desirable to lay
the vines down and cover them over for the
winter, or in February or March if not laid
down, consists in cutting back all the young
wood of the previous year’s growth (except
such shoots as may be required to extend the

Seine See horizontal arms) to within one or two good
bearing buds of the bearing canes on the lower wire, giving the vine the
the appearance of the following cut:

Each season thereafter
the vines are to be treated
in the same manner, cut-
ting back every year to the
lower wire or slat, extend- Pruned Vine
ing the vine only in a horizontal direction, thinning vines in the rows by
digging up every other plant if necessary, but never growing any grapes
above the second wire and renewing the bearing canes by new shoots from
the stump when required.

Would suggest that you write the United States Department of Agricul-
ture, Washington, for Farmers’ Bulletin No. 284, on Insect and Fungous
Enemies of the Grape.

Trees have come through all right, 14 days on road, but in good condition and fine
trees. Will give you an order for 1000 more this fall— Jacob M. Gray, Lantz, Md.

Received the trees today from your nursery. Am well pleased with same.—Elvin W.
Funk, Smithsburg, Md.

The shipment of trees and evergreens arrived in good condition March 15th and are
very satisfactory.—(Rev.) G. W. Lay, St. Mary’s School, Raleigh, N. C

The trees arrived in beautiful order. Am well pleased. Accept thanks for the
careful packing, ete.—Mrs. Kate B. Watson, Memphis, Tenn.

Wife is very much pleased with your selection of Magnolia trees —R. R. Moore,
Siler City, N. C
IT have just had report from my manager saying the trees came all right and were
nice ones. I enclose check in payment. Please accept thanks for attention to order..
—A. W. Griggs, Danville, Va.

Having bought some fruit trees from you eight years ago, and was well satisfied
with them, wish you would send me your nursery catalogue.-—Henry Offenburg, Cordele,

How To PLANT AND CARE FOR AN ORCHARD 23

KEEPING WINTER APPLES

The main thing in keeping winter apples is to have them in a cool, dry
place, and handle carefully so as to keep them sound. The plan given through
this communication has been learned by keeping apples in a cellar. A cellar
purposely for apples would be most suitable if located on the north side of
a hill, having windows just above the ground between the floor of the build-
ing and above the cellar wall. The cellar should be walled with stone or
brick—and the larger the stones the better—as the rock retains cold so well
that the temperature can be kept lower by the use of stones than if the wall
is only brick or dirt.

Besides the windows—which are on the north side—there must be a door
made through the floor above the cellar for entrance, and to be kept open.
in cold seasons with the windows, so as to ventilate and air out the cellar,
and keep it cold and dry.

There must be no way of entrance in the side of the cellar, but the door
must be, as has been said, through the floor above.

Now, bear in mind the main thing to keep apples well is a cold, dry
temperature.

A building with thick walls would do, or rather a room on the north side
of a building would answer the purpose.

Of course, the doors and windows would have to be watched and opened
and shut, according to the changes of the weather.

There is no danger of the apples freezing in the cellar or apple room,
unless the weather is extremely cold—especially if they are packed in boxes.

Apples keep very well if put up in boxes without the use of any sort of
trash between the layers, or if there is anything used, newspapers are nice
and are better than anything that would cause filth.

The cellar door and window should be kept open whenever the weather is
cold enough—and not too cold—especially at night.

It is, of course, necessary to watch the weather and be sure to keep the
cellar well closed when the weather is extremely cold—say below 20 degrees.

At night is the time to keep the cellar open, even in the midst of the
winter, as any fair day is apt to be too warm for ventilation. A sudden
change from a cold to a warm temperature would cause the apples to sweat;
hence there must be great care lest the cellar be left open some warm day.

There should be double shutters to the windows, so as to have the cellar
as near air-tight as possible; and the floor above the cellar should be doubled
and filled between the two floors. All this is necessary, so as to have the
cellar air-tight when the weather is extremely warm or extremely cold.

Now, as the construction of the cellar is the main thing, so as to keep
its temperature cold and dry, the apples can be arranged according to con-
venience or choice; and they can be handled and sorted over during the
winter and late in the spring—as their keeping qualities and the judgment
of the keeper may demand.

24 J. VAN LINDLEY Nursery Co., Pomona, N. C.

If apples are well ripened, and not gathered before frost, they can be
immediately put in boxes—that is, if they are dry.

Fall apples and those liable to rot soon, are usually kept on shelves, and
of course the more cold air they have the better.

Handling apples will not hurt them if care is taken so that they will
not get bruised; they should be sorted and picked over so as to keep those
starting to rot away from the sound ones, and to have the unsound ones for
use when they are found.

The sorting should be more closely attended to as spring comes in—especi-
ally in April and the first of May. By the above plan good keeping apples
will keep very well until April and May.

THE FRUIT TREE SALESMAN

What are you going to do with him? Well, that depends on the kind
of man he is. If he is an honest business man, treat him as such. If you
have reason to believe he is not doing a square business and not representing
a reliable nurseryman, then buy trees from some one who is.

We make it a special point in contracting with all our salesmen to try
and get men who are honest and who we think will do an honest, square
business toward the trade that we have been dealing with for forty years,
and with whom we hope to continue.

Avoid salesmen who tell extravagant and unreasonable tales about wonder-
ful fruits. Our trees do not need misrepresenting. By their fruits you have
known them in the past, and as we keep fully abreast of the times in fruit
culture, we are fully prepared to give you everything good in the fruit line.

The honorable fruit tree salesman who does a legitimate business is a blessing
to the country, as people often buy and plant trees from him that otherwise
they would not have.

There are no doubt unreliable fruit tree agents who are running around
over the country doing a swindling business. At the same time, there are
honest ones doing an honorable, legitimate business. We require all our men
to do a straight business, and we will esteem it a great favor if you will
report to us any of our men who do otherwise.

Dear Sir: During the last fourteen years I have had trees and shrubs sent to me
from time to time from the Pomona Hill Nurseries, Pomona, N. C., represented by you,
and I take pleasure in certifying that your trees are true to name, of excellent quality
and nicely packed for shipment. I may add that not the least pleasant part one has
in dealing with this nursery, is that it is represented by courteous gentlemen, who
spare no pains to give customers satisfaction, and whose extensive knowledge of the
business enables them to assist the buyer in the selection of trees and plants best suited
to their section .—Geo. OC. Harris, Mt. Helena, Sharkey County, Miss.

I am gathering nice, fancy Mayflower peaches from our trees, bought of you November,
1907, and January, 1908. I pronounce this the earliest peach I ever saw and the most
beautiful.—W. T. Bailey, Jr., Washington, N. ©

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A CONTRAST THAT POINTS ITS OWN MORAL

It is easy to say that planting trees, shrubs and vines about the home improves the appearance many-
fold, but the pictures shown above and below prove it. They were made from photographs, and
show actual scenes, ‘before and after,’’ without exaggeration. They provein a most convincing
manner the possibilities of a little money spent in things that grow.
Are your grounds arranged in attractive harmony as only trees, bushes, vines and roses can make
them? Or does one giance convey the desolate, barren picture suggested by the illustration above?
An investment that azy one can afford to make is shown in the picture below. We have selected
this particular example just to prove how reasonable such an exenditure can be made.
Count the trees in the second illustration. There are but a very few of them, yet they are arranged in
so effective a manner as to give the effect of an elaborate planting. You try it.

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J. Van Lindley Nursery Co.

Over 22,000 Orders Shipped Annually

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1, Norway Maple 8, Silver Maple
2, Sugar Maple BEAUTIFY YOUR HOME GROUNDS 4, Texas Umbrella

WE ARE THE OLDEST AND LARGEST NORTH CAROLINA
NURSERY, AND ONE OF THE LARGEST IN THE SOUTH

We own over 1000 acres of land, 350 acres being constantly devoted
to the growth of nursery stock.

There is a reason for the growth and long life of these Nurseries:

Our Trees Bear True to Name and Produce Results

Give your order to our authorized salesman or send direct

POMONA, NORTH CAROLINA

ESTABLISHED 1866 INCORPORATED 1889

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JOS. J. STONE & CO., PRINTERS, GREENSBORO, N. C.