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DBRARY 

TMH  HEW  YORK  BQTAKtCAC  GARDEN 
BftONX,  NEW  YORK  10458 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2017  with  funding  from 
IMLS  LG-70-15-0138-15 


https://archive.org/details/hoyahandbookguidOOklop 


The  Hoya 
Handbook 


A Guide  for  the  Grower  & Collector 


By  Dale  Kloppenburg 
with 


n 


The  Hoya  Handbook 
A Guide  for  the  Grower  & Collector 
By  Dale  Kloppenburg  with  Ann  Wayman 
ISBN  0-9630489-1-0 


Published  in  the  U.S.A. 
by  Orca  Publishing  Co. 

P.O.  Box  1003 

Medford,  Oregon  97501-0071 
Copyright  1992© 

All  Rights  reserved.  No  part  of  this  publication  may  be  reproduced, 
stored  in  a retrieval  system,  or  transmitted,  in  any  form  or  by  any  means, 
electronic,  mechanical,  photocopying,  recording  or  otherwise,  without  prior 

permission  of  Orca  Publishing  Co. 


CONTENTS 

Preface  i 

Introduction  ii 

Chapter  1 1 

About  Hoyas 

Chapter  2 3 

Lands  of  Discovery 

Chapter  3 5 

Foliage  & Flowers 

Chapter  4 7 

Care  & Culture 

Rooting  in  Water  8. .Rooting  in  A Solid  Medium  9. .Growing  from 
Seeds  1 1 ..Light  Requirements  1 2.. Food  for  your  Plants 

13. . Temperatures  15. .Potting  Mediums  16. .Pots  & Potting 

17. . Artificial  Light  15 

Chapter  5 19 

Hang-Em-High 

Insects  & Diseases  23 

Insects..  Diseases.. Outdoors 

Chapter  6 27 


Plant  Names 


Chapter  7 


29 


What  Hoya  Species  are  Found  Where 


Chapter  8 51 

Questions  about  Hoyas 

Chapter  9 61 

Hoya  Hall  of  Fame 

30  Hoyas  described 

Chapter  10  92 

114  additional  Hoyas  described 

The  Picture  Gallery  I 

1 44  Color  Photos 

Glossary  XXVI 


PREFACE 


Interest  in  Hoyas  as  house  plants  has  increased  dramatically  in  the  past  ten  years. 

Many  who  started  with  just  a few  plants  a decade  ago,  now  have  large  collections. 
Busy  people  from  all  walks  of  life  are  discovering  the  joys  of  growing  Hoyas  as  a 
hobby.  Unlike  so  many  exotic  plants  from  far  away  places  that  must  be  treated  with 
great  care  to  insure  success,  these  plants  seems  to  thrive  on  a certain  amount  of 
neglect.  This  is  not  to  say  that  they  don’t  enjoy  being  pampered.. .they  do!  But  they 
can  also  get  by  very  well  without  all  the  coddling  and  attention  that  many  tropical 
plants  require. 

The  question  that  arises  more  often  than  any  other  from  new  growers,  is...  Are  there 
any  books  available?  The  second  question  from  new,  and  not  so  new  growers 
is.. .How  do  I know  which  Hoyas  to  buy?  The  answer  to  the  first  question  is... that 
there  is  very  little  literature  available  for  the  Hoya  grower.  A rather  vague  answer! 
The  answer  to  the  second  question  is  even  more  vague.  Until  a few  years  ago, 
there  was  really  no  way  of  knowing  what  to  buy,  or  exactly  what  you  would  get  when 
you  placed  an  order  for  Hoyas.  It  was  obvious  that  a handbook  on  the  care  and 
culture  of  species  in  the  Hoya  genus  was  needed,  and  that  this  book  should  also 
contain  many  colored  pictures  to  help  with  the  selection  of  future  purchases. 

I would  have  loved  to  continue  my  research  work  into  the  scientific  end  of  this 
interesting  genus,  and  watched  from  the  sidelines  while  someone  else  did  the 
writing.  However,  nobody  else  volunteered,  so  after  much  persistant  prodding  from 
friends  and  Hoya  growers,  I reluctantly  said.. .Why  Not! 

After  the  first  few  days  of  writing,  I realized  that  I was  actually  enjoying  every  minute 
that  I spent  working  on  this  book.  I found  myself  wandering  around  the  green  house, 
really  looking  at  the  plants  again.. .examining  individual  flowers,  admiring  the  dozen 
shades  of  green,  bronze  and  pink  of  the  different  foliage.  Tracing  veins  and  leaf 
patterns  with  my  eyes.  This  is  a part  of  plant  growing  that  I had  almost  forgotten 
existed. 


I would  like  to  dedicate  this  book  to  Hoya  lovers  all  over  the  world. 

...  As  for  me... 

I think  I’ll  just  sit  here  awhile  and  watch  my  plants  grow! 


Dale  Kloppenburg 


1 


INTRODUCTION 


Hoya  is  a group  (genus)  of  plants  that  belong  to  the  milkweed  family, 
Asclepiadaceae.  The  family  occurs  in  the  temperate  regions  of  the  world.  The 
largest  number  of  species  are  from  the  tropics  and  subtropics,  especially  South 
America  and  Southern  Africa.  Most  have  a milky  sap.  The  flowers  are  borne  in 
cymes,  racemes  or  umbels.  Each  flower  is  bisexual  (containing  both  male  and 
female  parts),  are  regularly  symmetrical,  of  5 partly  fused  sepals  and  5 fused  petals. 
Various  classification  schemes  usually  divide  the  family  into  parts  and  subparts. 
Joseph  Decaisne  in  De  Candolle’s  Prodromus  divided  the  Asclepiad  family  into  5 
suborders.  The  5th  being  Stapeliae;  consisting  of  2 divisions.  Division  II 
Ceropegiae,  contains  among  other  genera,  Stapelia,  Ceropegia,  Dischidia  and 
Hoya. 

The  Hoya  genus  can  be  delineated  by  pollen  masses  being  erect  or  connivent, 
lying  upon  the  stigma  (the  edge  of  the  stigma  table),  fixed  by  the  base,  or  beneath 
the  middle  of  the  side.  Anthers  terminated  by  a membrane  (anther  appendage). 
The  genus  was  named  for  Mr.  Thomas  Hoy,  the  intelligent  and  successful  cultivator 
of  wide  renown,  who  worked  for  the  Duke  of  Northumberland  at  Sion  House, 
England.  Hoya  is  the  Latinization  of  his  name. 


ii 


Chapter  1 


As  with  many  things  in  nature  we  cannot  be  dogmatic 
concerning  the  various  aspects  of  this  plant  genus. 


We  could  say  that  Hoyas  are  vines. ..and  the  majority  are.  There  are,  however, 
some  species  that  are  more  like  bushes  than  vines.  Most  twine  and  climb  up 
tree  trunks  or  among  the  branches  of  large  shrubs,  but  many  species  are  pendant, 
hanging  down  over  large  limbs,  exposing  their  dangling  stems  to  the  monsoon  winds 
of  the  moist  tropics.  Again... the  largest  number  of  Hoya  species  are  found  as 
epiphytes  and  usually  hang  in  the  branches  and  crowns  of  tall  jungle  trees  seeking 
sunlight,  yet  many  start  their  life  in  the  dampness  of  the  tropic  forest  floor.  Seed, 
borne  on  the  wind,  alight  and  germinate  in  this  dampness.  The  climbers  find  their 
way  up  stems,  tree  trunks  and  branches  to  eventually  die  out  below  and  find  life 
support  in  the  tree  tops  above.  Millions  of  these  seeds  germinate,  but  only  a small 
percentage  establish  themselves  and  grow  to  maturity. 

I have  seen  enormous  plants  covering  the  massive  crowns  of  giant  forest  trees. 
Vines  in  profusion. ..hanging  30-40  feet  in  a dangling  mass  from  huge  primary  forest 
trees.  Some  species,  small  in  nature  may  form  a compact,  clump-like  mat  on  a tree 
limb. 

Though  numerous  Hoyas  prefer  limestone  ledges,  outcroppings  or  boulders,  most 
are  lowland  species,  even  living  in  the  mangroves  at  sea  level.  But,  here 
again. ..some  species  can  be  found  at  high  altitudes.  In  the  cool  mists  and  cloud 
covered  mountain  tops  of  the  tropical  rainforests  they  enjoy  almost  constant 
moisture  and  high  humidity.  Intermediate  and  low  elevation  Hoyas  often  exist  in  an 
atmosphere  where  there  is  no  spring,  summer,  fall,  or  winter.. .only  a wet  or  dry 
season. 


1 


Some  areas  that  Hoyas  inhabit  are  extremely  dry  for  long  periods  of  time.  Inland 
from  Darwin,  Australia,  a Hoya  may  be  subject  to  rainfall  only  once  in  3 to  5 
years  when  the  monsoon  rain  pattern  changes,  and  a storm  sweeps  inland  to  these 
areas.  Under  these  dry  conditions,  the  plants  develop  thick,  succulent  leaves  that 
are  capable  of  storing  moisture  for  survival  until  the  next  supply  of  water  arrives.  In 
fact,  most  Hoyas  have  rather  thick  leaves  and  can  be  considered  succulent  in  nature. 
But,  once  again. ..there  are  exceptions,  and  we  find  a few  species  that  have  very 
thin  leaves.  The  range  of  diversity  in  foliage  seems  to  run  from  thin  and  fragile,  to 
very  thick  and  succulent.  In  habitat... from  seashore  to  high  tropical  mountain  tops. 
In  growth  habit.. .from  vinelike  climbers  to  bushes,  shrubs,  and  graceful  pendant 
forms.  I would  also  like  to  add,  from  wee  flowers,  barely  visible,  to  huge  flowers 
over  three  inches  across. 

In  the  course  of  my  own  collecting  trips,  I have  found  that  most  hoyas  seem  to 
prefer  the  edges  of  the  darkened  forest  where  there  is  some  light,  yet  not  the  open 
areas  of  scrub  and  grass  where  the  sunlight  is  intense.  As  was  mentioned  above, 
there  are  exceptions  such  as  the  dry  regions  of  North  Eastern  Thailand,  and  the 
desolate  territory  inland  from  Darwin  Australia.  Traveling  stream  courses  is 
especially  productive  in  yielding  Hoya  specimens,  but  also  the  edges  of  cultivated 
fields  and  most  often,  but  not  exclusively,  on  old  primary  forest  trees.  In  these  trees, 
often  isolated  in  many  areas  due  to  forest  destruction,  we  often  find  one  or  more 
Hoya  species  flourishing  in  the  crown  or  twining  among  the  aerial  roots  and  gnarled 
trunks.  Areas  where  trees  have  been  cut  for  timber  or  slash  and  burn  agriculture, 
power  line  clearing  and  other  such  human  undertakings,  are  excellent  places  to  find 
mature  plants,  and  usually  many  seedlings  among  the  moss,  broken  limbs  and 
rotting  wood.  The  area  where  I found  the  most  extensive  growth  of  Hoyas,  was  in 
a cultivated  field  of  T aro,  growing  profusely  among  the  rotting  trunks  of  forest  giants, 
and  on  adjacent  small  trees  left  for  shade,  on  the  island  of  Upolo  in  Western  Samoa. 

In  our  collecting  endeavors,  we  must  always  keep  conservation  in  mind,  and  not 
strip  whole  plants  away,  but  leave  major  portions  to  continue  their  growth.  We  can, 
after  all,  make  a herbarium  specimen  from  a small  portion  of  a piant,  and  even  grow 
thousands  of  plants  in  the  course  of  time,  from  a one  node  cutting  brought  in  from 
the  wild.  In  areas  that  are  destined  to  be  burned,  it  is  another  matter.  Plants 
exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  with  their  shade  canopy  destroyed,  will  not 
survive  for  long,  but  often  long  enough  to  flower  and  fruit.. .in  human  terms,  a 
desperate  attempt  at  species  survival,  a one  more  time  effort  to  reproduce  before 
death.  There  is  no  intelligent  intent  on  the  part  of  the  plant,  only  a response  to 
physiological  conditions. 


2 


C hapter  2 


Lands  of  Discovery  «««««« 


Hoyas  are  found  in  many  exotic  places.  Their  westward  extension  is  on  the  island 
of  Sri  Lanka  (Ceylon),  off  the  South  Western  coast  of  India.  They  are  found  in 
peninsular  India,  the  upper  Ghats  region,  the  Punjab,  Simla  and  Sikkim,  around 
Kolimpong  in  the  foothill  region  of  the  Himalayas,  and  to  the  East  in  the  Kasi  and 
Naga  hill  country.  From  here  Eastward  into  Burma,  Thailand,  Southern  China,  Laos, 
Cambodia  and  Vietnam.  There  are  species  found  on  Taiwan  and  the  island  of 
Okinawa  south  of  Japan  proper.  Numerous  species  have  been  discovered  in  New 
Guinea,  and  also  the  Philippines  with  its  1 400  islands.  Another  large  collection  area 
is  Sumatra,  Malaya,  the  islands  of  Indonesia,  Borneo,  and  the  Celebes.  In  Australia 
around  Darwin  facing  the  Arafura  Sea,  on  to  Cape  York  and  down  the  East  coastal 
areas  south  to  Northern  New  South  Whales.  From  the  Australian  Mainland  and 
across  the  Main  island  of  New  Guinea  they  are  found  on  all  the  lesser  islands  of 
New  Ireland,  New  Britain,  Bougainville  and  on  down  the  islands  of  the  Solomon 
chain,  and  South  to  Vanuatu  (New  Hebrides)  and  New  Caledonia.  They  are  at  home 
even  further  to  the  East  in  the  many  islands  of  the  Fiji  group,  on  to  Tonga  and  the 
Samoan  Islands.  In  the  American  Trust  territories,  one  species  each  are  found  on 
the  islands  of  Truck  and  Ponapae. 


In  all  this  vast  area  there  are  islands,  valleys,  mountain  slopes,  and 
hidden  canyons  where  Hoyas  have  not  yet  been  collected.  Our 
chances  of  discovering  new  species  is  certain. 


3 


Cross  Section  of  Flower 


1 . PEDICEL 

2.  CALYX  (Sepal) 

3.  COROLLA 

4.  CORONA 

5.  STIGMA  HEAD 

6.  STIGMA  receptive  area 

7.  POLLINARIUM 

8.  OVARIES 

9.  OVARY 

10.  CORONA  inner  lobe 

11.  CORONA  outer  lobe 

12.  CORONAL  GROOVE 

13.  ANTHER  wing 

14.  ANTHER  appendage 

15.  POLLINIA 

16.  TRANSLATOR 

17.  RETINACULUM 

18.  LIGULE 


• 5 


4 


Chapter  3 


»»»»»»  Foliage  & Flowers  ««««««  j 


Until  recently  there  were  only  a few  Hoya  species  available  for  the  plant  lover  to 
enjoy.  Within  the  past  10  to  15  years,  a well  deserved  interest  in  this  genus 
has  led  to  a flurry  of  collecting,  and  the  available  species  and  clones  has  grown  year 
by  year.  It  is  a continuing  quest  that  is  interesting,  educational,  a boon  to  the 
conservation  of  these  species  and  above  all  exciting.  I’m  sure  most  will  agree  this 
is  a group  of  plants  that  are  beautiful,  exotic  and  well  worth  your  devoted  attention 
and  study.  Even  when  not  in  bloom  the  well  cared  for  plants  exhibit  beautiful  foliage, 
each  species  different  in  color,  texture,  shape  and  markings.  It  is  always  a joy  to 
observe  the  development  of  the  new  growth,  often  with  bronze,  maroon  and  reddish 
tones  of  color. 

Most  Hoyas  have  opposite  leaves,  two  at  each  node,  but  again  we  have  an 
exception  in  the  case  of  the  H.  imbricata  complex.  One  leaf  of  these  species  aborts 
or  does  not  develop  and  the  remaining  circular  leaf  oppresses  itself  closely  to  the 
trunks  of  Palms  and  other  forest  trees,  most  often  with  one  leaf  overlapping  the  next, 
shingle  fashion.  This  gives  rise  to  the  specific  name  of  "imbricata11  which  means 
overlapping.  The  stem  is  usually  covered  by  these  cupped  leaves  under  which  are 
many  rootlets.  This  is  an  ideal  hiding  and  nesting  place  for  ants  which  take  full 
advantage  of  a place  to  call  home.  Thus  in  many  cases  a colony  of  small  ants  can 
be  found  here  (a  sort  of  symbiotic  relationship).  Actually,  if  you  pull  a plant  off  of 
the  tree  trunk,  "the  ants  will  find  you".  The  plant  winds  its  way  up  the  tree  trunks 
often  almost  completely  covering  the  surface,  orienting  themselves  to  the  preferred 
amount  of  light,  moisture  and  exposer  to  the  jungle  breezes. 

All  Hoya  flowers  are  a study  in  perfection;  starlike  in  appearance  with  their  five 
petals,  and  a gorgeous  central  crown  that  sits  atop  the  flower  like  a queen’s  tiara. 
Described  by  many  as  "molded  in  porcelain",  "sculptured  in  wax".  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  nature’s  creations,  and  all  but  a few  have  a lovely  fragrance.  The 


5 


inflorescence  on  most  Hoyas  consist  of  20  to  30  flowers  per  umbel.  While  some 
species  will  have  as  many  as  50  or  60,  others  have  as  few  as  2 to  4.  The  larger 
flowered  species  usually  have  fewer  flowers,  but  make  up  for  it  in  sheer 
magnificence. 


6 


C hapter  4 


Care  & Culture  of  "The  Stars" 


»»»»»»  Propagation  «««««« 


In  the  process  of  collecting  rare  and  exotic  plants,  there  are  times  and  under  some 
conditions  that  seed  pods  are  collected.  The  seed  is  sown  and  the  resulting  plants 
are  grown  on  to  maturity.  In  the  case  of  Hoyas,  virtually  all  of  the  species  that  we 
have  under  cultivation  today  were  originally  brought  in  from  the  wild  as  cuttings. 
These  long  pieces  of  plant  stems,  hopefully,  with  some  leaves  still  intact,  were  cut 
into  smaller  pieces,  just  below  a leaf  node  (or  growing  point),  and  rooted  in  many 
different  mediums,  ranging  from  plain  water,  to  sand,  and  all  types  of  mixtures 
in-between.  This  form  of  multiplying  plants  is  called  "vegetative  propagation",  and 
results  in  a plant  genetically  identical  to  the  parent  plant.  Our  Grandmothers  used 
to  call  these  cuttings  slips,  and  to  "slip  a plant"  meant  only  that  it  was  being 
propagated  from  a cutting. 

Hoyas  are  one  of  the  easiest  of  plants  to  propagate  from  cuttings.  It  is  possible, 
however,  to  fail  to  get  a cutting  to  root,  so  a few  suggestions  may  be  helpful. 

When  plants  arrive  in  the  mail,  they  may  be  dehydrated,  or  highly  stressed,  and 
will  benefit  from  a soaking  for  a few  hours  in  mildly  warm  water,  to  which  a little  table 
sugar  has  been  added.  Although  the  sugar  helps  to  give  the  cuttings  extra  strength 
and  some  food  reserve,  the  amount  of  sugar  isn’t  as  important  as  getting  moisture 
back  into  the  leaves.  A quarter  cup  of  sugar  to  two  gallons  of  warm  water  should 
be  adequate.  Even  adding  a few  drops  of  Vitamin  B-1  won’t  hurt.  This  process  helps 
to  keep  your  cuttings  from  further  wilting  and  so  increases  your  chances  for  survival 
until  they  can  form  a root. 


7 


Rooting  in  Water «««««« 


Let’s  start  with  water  as  a rooting  medium.  If  you’re  rooting  many  cuttings  at  a 
time,  a pint  size,  wide  mouthed  jar,  filled  with  tepid  water  works  well.  A short, 
narrow  necked  vase  is  best  for  one  or  two  cuttings  at  a time.  Wrap  the  jar  or  vase 
with  aluminum  foil  to  keep  out  the  light.  Extending  the  foil  above  the  mouth  of  the 
jar,  and  tucking  it  over  the  lip  to  make  the  opening  narrower  will  also  help  to  hold 
the  cuttings  upright.  You  won’t  need  to  do  this  with  the  vase.  Lang  cuttings  lose 
moisture  from  the  leaves  and  stems  by  a process  with  a jaw-breaking  title  of 
"evapotranspiration",  or  to  put  it  simply,  by  evaporation  and  transpiration  leading  to 
wilt.  So  keep  your  cuttings  as  short  as  possible.  In  most  cases  a 6"  cutting  is  ideal, 
but  not  always  possible  with  Hoyas  that  have  very  long  internodes  between  leaves. 
On  cuttings  that  have  their  leaves  close  together,  remove  the  bottom  layer  of  leaves 
so  at  least  one  node,  minus  the  leaves  will  be  under  water.  It  is  in  these  growth 
points,  or  nodal  areas  where  the  growth  hormones  are  concentrated,  so  you  will 
usually  get  a root  in  4 to  10  days.  A light  dusting  of  a root  hormone  powder,  or  a 
drop  or  two  of  vitamin  B-1  solution  may  hasten  rooting.  The  idea  is  to  get  a good 
root  system  as  quickly  as  possible  with  little  or  no  wilting.  Place  your  cuttings  in 
lukewarm  or  tepid  water  and  keep  in  a well  lighted,  warm,  humid  area.  If  the  cutting 
is  wilted  or  the  humidity  is  naturally  low,  you  may  need  to  place  a poly  bag  loosely 
over  the  top  of  the  cutting  and  jar.  Cut  a small  corner  from  the  poly  bag  to  allow 
steam  to  escape  in  case  the  room  heats  up  to  a point  where  the  cuttings  are  in 
danger  of  being  cooked  from  the  heat  that  forms  inside  the  bag.  As  soon  as  you 
see  a strong  root  system  develop,  it  is  safe  to  "pot  up"  the  plant  in  a soilless  or  soil 
based  medium. 


8 


Rooting  in  a Solid  Medium 


When  rooting  in  sponge  rock,  sphagnum  moss,  fine  bark  chips,  loose  potting 
soil  or  other  moisture  holding  media,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  medium  moist 
but  not  sopping  wet.  The  mix  should  be  loose  enough,  or  be  of  such  texture  as  to 
provide  moisture,  while  allowing  all  excess  water  to  pass  on  through  (good 
drainage).  Be  sure  the  medium  and  container  are  sterile!  As  with  the  water  method, 
a rooting  hormone  or  vitamin  B-1  will  also  aid  rooting  in  other  mediums.  Most  rooting 
hormones  also  contain  a fungicide  which  will  counter-act  any  soil  born  fungus 
diseases  that  may  be  lurking  in  soil  based  mixes.  Hormones  are  not  essential, 
however.  People  have  been  rooting  cuttings  with  almost  100%  success  since  long 
before  hormones  were  marketed,  so  don’t  let  a lack  of  hormones  on  hand  deter  you 
from  rooting  new  cuttings.  Small  leaved  hoya  cuttings  are  handled  differently  than 
the  very  large  leaved  types.. .the  intermediate  types  fall  somewhere  in  between.  For 
the  tiny  miniatures,  ten  nodes,  or  more  may  make  a good  cutting  and  still  be  relatively 
short.  Some  of  the  large  leaved,  heavy  stemmed  Hoyas  may  arrive  at  your  home 
with  only  one  set  of  leaves,  or,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  only  1 leaf.  With  these 
large  leaved  species,  a single  node  makes  an  adequate  cutting.  In  these 
circumstances,  the  stem,  with  the  leaf  attached  is  pushed  into  the  medium  to  just 
cover  the  node,  leaving  the  leaf  blade  in  the  open  air.  Here  is  where  setting  the  cut 
into  the  medium  at  an  angle  aids  in  doing  it  correctly. 

In  some  very  extreme  cases  (such  as  traveling  long  distances  by  mail)  plants  will 
arrive  with  no  leaves  whatsoever.  Don’t  despair!  A plants’  ability  to  live  has  always 
been  a puzzle,  and  nowhere  is  it  more  prevalent  than  in  this  instance  of  bringing  a 
half  dead  plant  back  to  life.  Plant  these  leafless  stems  in  the  same  manner  that  you 
would  plant  a stem  with  leaves.  If  they  are  going  to  recover  and  live,  they  normally 
form  a tiny  leaf,  or  leaf  bud  first,  then  a root  (this  phenomenon  is  quite  typical  in 
Orchids.)  Once  the  root  is  established  and  growing,  the  leaf  may  dry  up  and  fall  off, 
but,  don’t  give  up!  This  seems  to  be  a normal  process,  and  if  there  is  a shred  of  life 
left  in  them,  they  can  usually  be  saved.  You  can  usually  tell  whether  stem  cuttings 
have  developed  a root  by  their  outward  appearance.  They  look  plumper,  and  are 
a healthier  looking  green  or  sometimes  even  brown,  but  they  don’t  have  that  "sick 
to  death"  look  of  cuttings  that  are  dead,  but  refuse  to  fall  over.  As  long  as  the  root 
system  is  alive,  the  plant  will  eventually  begin  to  grow,  often  producing  new  shoots 
directly  from  the  roots.  This  may  take  a few  days,  or  a year  or  more,  and  you  might 
want  to  consider  whether  it  is  worth  the  trouble.  With  very  rare  or  expensive  cuttings, 
it  is  certainly  worth  every  effort.  Don’t  be  tempted  to  lift  any  cutting  to  see  what  is 
happening,  and  don’t  bump  or  move  the  stem.  Lsave  them  in  a warm,  humid,  well 
lighted  spot,  and  ordinarily  in  2-3  weeks  you  may  expect  to  see  the  beginnings  of 
new  growth. 


9 


Leaves  from  Hoyas  will  root,  but  seldom  if  ever  form  into  plants.  Adventitious  buds 
must  first  form  to  produce  a shoot  and  new  leaves,  this  seldom  ever  happens!  I 
believe,  however,  with  some  manipulation  and  scarring  of  the  callused  area  and  the 
addition  of  a shoot  hormone,  growing  plants  from  leaves  might  be  possible. 

Continuous  mist  systems:  with  very  loose  materials  i.e.  sponge  rock,  loose  coral 
etc.,  a continuous  fine  mist  or  an  intermittent  misting  to  keep  the  cuttings 
continuously  damp  will  promote  rooting.  All  excess  moisture  must  drain  away.  It 
takes  some  preparation  to  devise  this  set  up  but  it  is  almost  fool  proof.  In  a way  this 
is  similar  to  the  water  method. 

HINTS:  (1)  Always  have  at  least  1 node  buried  if  possible.  (2)  keep  cuttings  short. 
(3)  If  you  have  several  cuttings  of  a plant,  try  them  in  different  rooting  mediums.  (4) 
Lay  cuts  of  small  species  horizontally  with  a node  or  two  covered.  (5)  Make  fresh, 
clean  cuts  before  applying  rooting  hormone,  and  blow  or  thump  off  the  excess.  (6) 
Bottom  heat  of  70  degrees  fahrenheit  will  hasten  rooting.  (7)  Keep  the  humidity  high 
to  reduce  evapotranspiration  and  the  subsequent  wilting  of  the  leaves,  until  rooting 
begins  in  a day  or  two. 

One  final  note:  Remember  which  end  is  up  and  which  is  down.  The  J 
growing  end  does  not  like  to  be  buried.  It  may  root  but  new  growth  will  J 
be  slowed  until  the  cutting  has  had  time  to  re-orient  itself. 


10 


»»»»»»  Growing  from  Seeds  «««««« 


If  you  are  lucky  enough  to  live  where  Hoyas  will  produce  pods,  you  can  collect  the 
seeds  and  sow  them.  Hoya  seeds  lose  their  viability  quickly  over  time,  so  the 
fresher  the  seeds,  the  better  your  chance  of  success.  These  fresh,  mature  seeds 
will  germinate  easily  on  a damp  medium.  A commercial  seed  sowing  mix  can  be 
purchased,  or  your  seed  can  be  sown  on  a bed  of  fine  peat  moss,  clipped  sphagnum, 
or  fine  potting  soil.  If  you  like  to  experiment,  synthetics,  such  as  moist  blotting  paper, 
burlap  or  fine  tissue  can  be  used  to  germinate  your  seed.  The  best  of  these  will  pull 
free  from  the  tiny  sprouts  when  you  are  ready  to  separate  and  pot  up  the  individual 
plants.  The  greatest  danger  other  than  becoming  dry  is  "damp  off",  a fungus  disease 
that  attacks  seedlings  at  the  soil  line,  causing  them  to  collapse  and  die.  It  is  a good 
idea  to  spray  the  surface  of  your  seed  bed  ahead  of  time  with  a good  systemic 
fungicide.  Benlate,  (Benomyl)  mixed  according  to  directions,  is  excellent. 

Snails  and  slugs  can  wipe  out  an  entire  tray  of  seedlings...  in  one  night!  If  you 
suspect  that  you  have  these  pests  in  the  near  vicinity,  get  out  the  slug  bait!.  Keep 
your  seedlings  moist,  warm,  and  in  good  light.  If  you  have  potted  up  your  seedlings 
into  a regular  potting  mix,  they  will  need  no  fertilizer  for  several  months.. .perhaps 
as  long  as  a year.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  you  have  used  sponge  rock,  vermiculite, 
or  other  soilless  mediums,  you  should  begin  a moderate  feeding  program  as  soon 
as  the  seedlings  display  two  sets  of  regular  leaves.  Many  seedlings  have  been 
burned  back  or  killed  by  fertilizer,  so  feed  with  a light  hand.  One  tenth  the  strength 
recommended  for  mature  plants  should  be  adequate  for  these  tiny  babies. 


Fertilizer  is  not  a cure-all.  It  won’t  cure  a diseased  plant.  In  fact, 
only  healthy  plants  in  active  growth  should  be  provided  with  additional 
nourishment,  unless  the  plants’  illness  can  be  diagnosed  as  lack  of 

nutrition. 


11 


»»»»»»  Light  Requirements  «««««« 


Light  is  the  very  essence  of  life  for  all  plants.  It  regulates  the  three  essential 
processes  for  growth  and  development.  Photosynthesis,  as  discussed  earlier, 
is  the  plant’s  procedure  for  converting  light  energy  into  food  energy. 

Phototropism  refers  to  a plants’  natural  tendency  to  grow  toward  their  light  source. 
This  process  is  controlled  by  growth  hormones  (auxins)  in  the  stem  tips  and 
youngest  leaves.  These  auxins  are  highly  reactive  to  light  and  cause  the  plant  to 
adjust  itself  toward  the  brightest  light  source. 

Photoperiodism  is  the  plants’  natural  approach  to  its’  light  and  dark  cycles.  To  put 
it  simply.. .a  plant  performs  best  in  the  same  cycle  of  light  and  dark  periods  which 
most  closely  resemble  those  of  their  original  habitat. 

Fortunately  for  us,  Hoyas  seem  to  grow,  and  even  bloom  without  regard  to  the 
length  of  their  day. ..provided  of  course,  that  there  is  a definite  period  of  light  and 
darkness. 

In  areas  where  plants  can  be  grown  outdoors  in  a moderately  shaded  setting,  this 
is  usually  no  problem. ..the  light  comes  on  in  the  morning  when  the  sun  rises,  and 
goes  off  at  night  when  the  sun  goes  down.  The  same  principal  applies  in  a green 
house.. .the  plants  get  an  adequate  amount  of  light  and  darkness,  and  thrive  with 
little,  or  no  intervention  on  our  part,  other  than  to  make  sure  that  they  don’t  suffer 
from  lack  of  water. 

Growing  Hoyas  or  any  other  plants  in  our  home  takes  a certain  amount  of  planning. 
There  are  many  determining  factors  that  dictate  how  much  light  is  available  within 
a home.  Even  in  the  same  room,  light  intensity  can  vary  drastically  from  one  location 
to  another.  Each  changing  season  brings  a different  angle  and  intensity  to  the 
sunlight  that  enters  our  homes  through  windows.  We  need  to  determine  well  in 
advance  whether  the  proper  amount  of  light  is  going  to  be  available  on  a year-round 
basis. 


"Bright  indirect  light"  is  an  appropriate  description  of  the  light 
required  for  good  growth  and  bloom  by  almost  all  Hoyas.  There  are  a 
few  species  that  actually  prefer  a shadier  location,  just  as  there  are 
some  species  that  prefer  almost  full  sun  in  order  to  grow  and  bloom 
well.  Watch  your  plants  closely. ..they  will  usually  let  you  know  by 
their  appearance  whether  they  are  happy,  or  just  barely  surviving. 


12 


»»»»»»  Food  For  Your  Plants  «««««« 


*#*•#* ¥&<%•&& 


Plants  in  the  wild  are  ragged,  mixed  with  yellowed,  insect  chewed  leaves,  dead 
and  dying  stems,  and  usually,  leaves  that  are  smaller  and  thicker  than  cultivated 
plants.  The  transformation  to  culture  is  often  amazing,  and  proves  that  our  cultivated 
plants  certainly  get  more  attention  and  loving  care. 

Every  living  thing  on  our  planet  requires  food  for  energy.  The  essential  elements 
for  health  and  growth  are  sugar  and  other  carbohydrates.  Unlike  animals,  however, 
plants  utilize  the  energy  of  the  sun  to  manufacture  their  own  food,  through  a process 
called  photosynthesis. 

In  photosynthesis,  light  energy,  carbon  dioxide,  and  water  combine  with  the  green 
plant  pigment,  chlorophyll,  to  produce  plant  sugars  and  oxygen,  which  is  released 
into  our  atmosphere. 

Photosynthesis  requires  an  environment  with  a sufficient  amount  of  light,  warm 
temperatures,  and  the  proper  amount  of  humidity. 

So  called  "plant  foods"  can  never  compensate  for  a poor  environment,  since 
fertilizer  provides  only  the  nutritional  building  materials,  not  the  plant’s  real  food. ..the 
sugar  it  manufactures  by  photosynthesis. 

The  organic  decomposition  of  peat  moss,  sphagnum,  bark  and  other  plant  potting 
media  will  provide  your  plants  with  a lot  of  their  nutritional  "building  blocks".  In 
nature,  we  have  decomposed  bark,  litter,  dust,  animal  manure  from  birds,  bats,  ants 
etc.,  even  rain  water  contains  nitrogen  the  most  essential  element  in  plant  nutrition. 
These  provide  the  necessary  nutrients,  but  we  want  our  home  grown  Hoyas  to  look 
better  than  plants  struggling  in  the  wild,  so  we  protect  them  from  the  wind,  the  driving 
rains,  the  scorching  sun.. .and  we  try  to  provide  them  with  any  minerals  that  they 
might  be  lacking.  The  question  that  arises  is  what  is  necessary  and  what  is  excess. 
Too  much  fertilizer,  and  we  have  a dead  or  badly  burned  plant.  Good  common 
sense  tells  us  to  use  fertilizers  judiciously,  and  on  potted  plants  in  weak  solutions 
or  concentrations.  If  the  plant  is  continuously  in  growth  it  needs  a constant  source 
of  food.  The  plant  takes  up  nutrients  in  the  form  of  ions  and  can  not  tell  the  difference 
between  organic  and  inorganic  sources.  They  also  can  not  tell  the  difference 
between  cheap  and  expensive  substances. 

Lets  look  at  plant  nutrition  and  nutrients  closely.  Of  the  more  than  100  chemical 
elements  known  to  man  today,  1 6 are  known  to  be  essential  for  plant  growth.  Others 
may  eventually  be  found  to  play  some  role  in  plant  growth  or  function  in  very  minute 
amounts.  Many  of  us  would  mentally  skip  over  the  3 major  ones  (carbon,  hydrogen, 


13 


and  oxygen)  because  they  are  so  common.  In  a sense,  they  are  "free"  because 
they  are  taken  from  the  air  and  water.  The  1 3 other  essential  elements  are  normally 
absorbed  from  the  soil  by  the  root  system,  or  to  a lesser  degree,  by  being  absorbed 
through  the  foliage,  such  as  in  foliar  feeding.  These  13  elements  are  divided  into 
primary,  secondary,  and  micro  plant  nutrients,  and  are  separated  into  these 
divisions  on  the  basis  of  the  relative  amounts  required  for  plant  growth.  None  is 
more  essential  than  any  other,  regardless  of  the  amounts  required. 

Briefly,  carbon  is  a basic  building  block  for  plant  life.  It  is  taken  from  the  air  in  the 
form  of  carbon  dioxide.  Photosynthesis  combines  the  carbon  with  hydrogen 
and  oxygen  to  form  carbohydrates.  Oxygen  is  required  for  plant  respiration,  and 
hydrogen,  along  with  oxygen,  forms  water,  which  constitutes  a large  portion  of  the 
total  plant  weight.  This  water  is  required  for  the  transport  of  minerals  and  plant  food 
and  the  chemical  reactions  necessary  for  plant  growth. 

The  primary  plant  nutrients  are  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  and  potassium.  Most  of  the 
nitrogen  is  taken  up  by  plants  in  the  nitrate  form  (negative  ions  or  the  chemical 
formula  NO-).  The  phosphorous  is  absorbed  as  HPO-,  HPO=or  PO=  depending 
on  the  soil  pH  (its  acidity).  Plants  take  up  the  potassium  in  the  form  of  a positive 
ion,  K-h  In  the  fertilizer  we  purchase  for  our  Hoya  plants,  the  various  3 numbered 
formulas  on  the  labels,  e.g.  8-24-10,  12-36-14,  20-20-20  etc.,  stand  for  these  3 
primary  nutrients,  nitrogen,  phosphorous,  and  potassium,  and,  in  that  order  as  N P 
K and  represents  the  percent  by  weight. 

The  secondary  plant  nutrients  are  calcium,  magnesium,  and  sulphur.  The  7 
micronutrients  are  zinc,  iron,  manganese,  copper,  boron,  molybdenum,  and 
chlorine.  Balance  is  important  in  plant  nutrition,  and  our  objective  should  be  to 
supplement  the  capacity  of  our  potting  mix  to  supply  nutrients  for  ideal  growth  and 
flower  production. 

There  are  many  choices  for  the  consumer.  Keep  in  mind  what  you  want,  what  you 
are  getting,  and  what  price  you  are  paying.  In  most  instances  you  need  only 
supplement  the  nutrients  already  present.  It  may  be  well  to  occasionally  supply 
micronutrients.  Though  the  majority  of  the  better  known  brands  of  specialty  plant 
foods  contain  these  micro-nutrients,  they  are  usually  quite  expensive,  as  they  are 
packaged  in  small  quantity.  On  the  other  hand,  huge  bulk  sacks  of  plant  food  may 
go  to  waste  if  it  takes  years  to  use.  Foliar  sprays  and  slow  release  fertilizers  also 
have  their  place.  The  former  for  quick  response  and  the  latter  because  they  need 
be  applied  so  infrequently.  Many  growers  will  apply  a high  nitrogen  fertilizer  in  the 
spring  when  rapid  growth  is  desirable,  then  switch  to  high  phosphorus  in  the  fall 
when  growth  slows  in  order  to  promote  bloom,  and  to  harden  off  the  plants  for  the 
cooler  winter  months. 


14 


»»»»»»  Temperatures  «««««« 


T emperatures  for  the  individual  species  will  be  covered  more  thoroughly  in  our  Hall 
of  Fame.  For  now,  let  it  suffice  to  say  briefly  that  all  Hoya  species  are  considered 
either  tropical  or  semi-tropical.  Though  some  few  species  can  survive  a light  freeze 
for  a short  time,  most  will  not  survive  if  exposed  to  temperatures  below  50°  F.  (10° 
C)  Many  will  die  if  exposed  to  temperatures  under  60°  F.  (1 5°C.).  When  we  live  in 
areas  of  cold  winters  and  without  heated  greenhouses  we  have  learned  to  be 
window  sill  gardeners,  basement  gardeners,  and  plant  room  gardeners  (some  plant 
rooms  are  situated  in  attics),  and  all  under  that  wonderful  artificial  light  called 
"flourescent". 


Hoyas  can  be  grown  and  will  flower  beautifully  under  artificial  light.  The  small 
growing  species  are  especially  valuable  for  this  method  of  growing.  There  are 
many  types  of  light  stands  available,  some  employing  very  elaborate  and  expensive 
grow  lights.  The  research  done  on  this  form  of  growing  indicates  that  nothing 
elaborate  is  required.  A simple  table  or  shelf  with  some  way  of  hanging  lights  fairly 
close  to  the  plants  is  all  that  is  needed.  Inexpensive  shop  lights  with  flourescent 
tubes  work  just  as  good  as  any  other.  It  seems  to  be  the  number  of  hours  spent 
under  the  lights  each  day  that  determines  how  a plant  will  grow,  rather  than  the 
quality  of  the  light.  You  will  need  at  least  two  4’  long,  40  watt  tubes,  as  the  smaller 
1 8 and  24  inch  tubes  don’t  put  out  enough  watts  for  sufficient  growth.  If  you’re  trying 
to  grow  plants  with  flourescent  light  as  your  only  source  of  light,  keep  the  lights  on 
a minimum  of  1 2 to  1 4 hours  per  day.  They  will,  however,  need  a rest  period  of  total 
darkness  to  give  them  a chance  to  manufacture  the  starches  and  sugars  that  they 
require  in  order  to  grow  well.  A small  inexpensive  timer  is  handy,  and  can  be  set  to 
keep  the  lights  on  for  whatever  time  you  select,  then  off  for  the  allotted  amount  of 
time.  If  you  have  some  light  coming  through  a window,  you  might  want  to  use  the 
flourescent  lights  a few  hours  a day  only,  or  as  a supplement  during  the  dark 
overcast  days  of  winter.  This  constant  source  of  light  will  result  in  steady,  even 
growth  and  your  plants  may  require  more  water  and  fertilizer  than  they  would 
normally  need. 

The  one  flaw  to  growing  under  lights  is  that  some  species  (not  all)  will  develop  red 
or  rust  colored  blotches  on  the  foliage.  This  is  not  a harmful  condition,  but  not  very 
attractive,  and  is  thought  to  be  caused  from  heat  build-up.  To  prevent  this,  keep  a 
small  fan  blowing  close  to  your  light  growing  area  so  that  the  air  is  kept  in  constant 
motion. 


15 


»»»»»»  Potting  Medium  «««««« 


Commercial  "all  purpose"  potting  mixes  are  readily  available,  convenient  to  use 
and  for  the  most  part  contain  ingredients  suitable  for  the  majority  of  house 
plants.  Peat  moss  is  normally  the  foundation  or  base  ingredient  of  most  house  plant 
mixes  with  other  organic  additives  such  as  ground  bark,  sterilized  manure, 
composted  leaf  mold,  rice  hulls  etc.  In  addition  they  will  contain  gritty  substances 
for  aeration  such  as  coarse  sand,  pumice,  perlite  or  vermiculite.  If  you  read  the 
ingredients  on  the  side  of  the  bag,  you  will  usually  see  that  a certain  amount  of 
dolomite  lime  has  also  been  added.. .this  is  to  neutralize  the  acid  in  the  peat  moss 
and  helps  to  maintain  a neutral,  or  very  slightly  acid  condition  in  the  mix. 

If  you  like  the  idea  of  mixing  your  own  potting  medium,  or  experimenting  with 
various  additives,  all  these  ingredients  can  be  purchased  separately.  You  may  even 
want  to  use  your  own  garden  soil  which  is  perfectly  acceptable.  The  organic  matter 
in  soil  is  systematically  broken  down  by  microorganisms  and  forms  humus.  Humus 
is  that  dark,  crumbly  material  that  colors  the  soil  and  allows  it  to  hold  air,  water,  and 
nutrients.  Adding  organic  amendments  such  as  peat  moss,  dried  manure,  ground 
bark,  leaf  mold,  or  compost  will  improve  your  garden  soil.  After  combining  this 
concoction  together  thoroughly,  it  should  be  sterilized. ..or  rather  "pasturized"  in  your 
oven. ..use  a covered  container,  and  bake  at  180  degrees  for  an  hour  or  so  to  kill 
soil  born  pests,  weed  seeds  etc.  You  will  also  need  to  check  the  pH  (acid  or  alkalinity 
ratio)  of  your  mix  with  a testing  kit,  and  add  dolomite  lime  to  bring  the  pH  of  your 
soil  to  approximately  6.9  which  is  considered  very  slightly  acid. ..7.0  being 
considered  neutral. 

Without  getting  too  deep  into  the  acid/alkalinity  dilemma,  it  is  sufficient  to  say  that 
the  majority  of  Hoyas  do  best  in  a mix  that  is  neutral,  or  slightly  acid.  On  the  other 
hand,  there  are  many  Hoya  species  that  are  adapted  to  limestone  areas,  and  will 
benefit  from  chunks  of  crushed  coral,  limestone,  bits  of  sea  shells,  or  marble. 
Anything  that  will  provide  calcium  carbonate.  Oyster  shell  is  readily  available,  and 
can  be  purchased  at  any  feed  store.  It  is  the  same  product  that  is  fed  to  chickens 
and  turkeys  for  added  calcium  in  their  diet. 


16 


»»»»»»  Pots  and  Potting  «««««« 

| . ......  w .....................  ............  .-.v. ......  ......  M 

Many  of  the  Hoyas  in  nature  are  epiphytes. ..most  in  fact!.  True  epiphytes,  such 
as  Bromeliads,  Tillandsias,  and  some  Orchids,  spend  their  entire  lives  on  large 
trees,  high  up  in  the  forest  tops.  The  seeds  drift  on  the  wind  or  can  be  carried  on 
the  fur  of  small  animals,  or  distributed  by  birds.  Seeds  that  alight  in  the  debris  that 
collects  in  the  crotches  of  branches,  will  germinate,  and  there  they  remain,  never 
touching  the  ground.  Hoyas  are  considered  epiphytes,  but  usually  start  their  lives 
connected  to  the  ground.  They  may  grow  for  some  time  scrambling  over  bushes, 
and  climbing  into  small  or  sometimes,  very  large  trees.  Their  climbing  and  vining 
habit  makes  them  extremely  adaptable,  and  although  they  may  start  their  life  on  the 
ground,  if  the  long,  tip  end  of  the  vine  reaches  a tree,  it  will  grab  on  and  begin  to 
climb.  As  a rule,  the  base  of  the  plants  eventually  die  out,  and  the  plant  becomes 
an  epiphyte.  If  the  trees  are  growing  close  together,  we  may  find  the  same  plant 
growing  through  the  branches  of  several  trees. 

We  may  duplicate  this  growth  type  to  some  extent,  if  we  have  the  room. ..say  a 
greenhouse,  if  it’s  large  enough,  or  outdoors  in  tropical  areas.  This  works  best  with 
small  to  medium  sized  species.  Find  a suitable  section  of  tree  trunk  or  limb  and 
wrap  it  with  sphagnum,  burlap  or  other  material  to  retain  moisture  and  for  a place 
to  affix  your  cuttings  (a  place  of  support).  Stick  rooted  cuttings  in  at  various  places 
and  secure  them  with  plasticfloral  tape,  hair  pins  or  other  holders.  In  areas  of  intense 
sunlight  throughout  most  of  the  year,  these  plants  will  do  better  on  the  north,  shaded 
side  of  the  trunk.  If  on  the  other  hand  you  live  in  an  area  of  many  dark  overcast 
days  or  coastal  fog,  your  plants  will  probably  be  happier  in  a south-east  exposure. 
Once  established,  many  Hoyas  will  thrive  in  this  condition,  and  even  enjoy  sharing 
space  with  other  epiphytyes.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  overwater  plants  in  this 
situation.  They  will  however,  need  watering  almost  daily  in  summer,  and  in  areas 
of  low  humidity. 

Although  our  old  standby.. .the  heavy  "terra  cotta"  clay  pot  is  still  popular  and  used 
extensively  for  the  "really  big"  species,  plastic  pots  are  preferred  by  most  growers 
for  obvious  reasons.  They  are  easy  to  clean  and  sterilize  for  re-use,  they  are 
lightweight  and  easy  to  store,  they  can  be  purchased  in  square  shapes,  which 
means  that  more  will  fit  in  a given  area.  They  are  relatively  inexpensive,  and 
moisture  retention  is  better,  which  can  be  a plus  or  minus.  In  recent  years,  we  have 
also  had  a selection  of  pressed  fiber  and  styrofoam  pots.  Most  Hoyas,  even  the 
heavy  stemmed,  strong  growing  ones  can  be  started  in  a 4"  pot.  If  space  is  a 
consideration  on  your  cutting  table,  two  or  three  cuts  of  the  same  clone  may  be 
started  in  the  same  pot,  and  separated  into  individual  pots  at  a later  date.  Large 
vigorous  species  like  H.  diversifolia,  meliflua,  obovata,  macrophylla,  latifolia, 
polystachya,  kerrii,  and  fraterna  may  be  moved  directly  to  a 6"  pot  or  hanging  basket 


17 


if  you  prefer.. .just  be  careful  of  overpotting!  It  is  usually  better  to  wait  until  the  plant 
growing  in  a 4"  pot  shows  signs  of  being  rootbound  to  move  it  to  a larger  pot.  When 
repotting,  make  2-4  vertical  slices  through  the  root  ball  to  provide  ends  from  which 
the  new  roots  will  start.  Repot  with  fresh  mix  around  this  root  mass  and  bury  just 
below  the  new  soil  line,  firm  the  mix  and  water  thoroughly.  Place  in  subdued  light 
for  a week  or  so,  then  gradually  move  into  better  light. 

Cuttings  of  small  growing  species,  and  seedlings  of  all  types  should  be  handled 
differently,  in  that  seedlings  should  be  transferred  first  into  2"  pots  at  the  3-4  leaf 
stage,  and  later,  as  they  become  established,  to  successively  larger  pots.  Cuttings 
of  the  very  tiny  miniature  species  can  be  potted  up,  three  to  four  cuttings  per  4"  or 
5"  pot,  where  they  can  live  their  entire  lives.  They  will  require  fresh  potting  mixture 
occasionally,  but  will  not  need  a bigger  pot.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  remove  the 
plant  from  the  old  pot,  shake  or  wash  off  the  old,  depleted  potting  mixture,  trim  off 
any  dead  roots,  and  place  in  fresh  potting  medium  in  a clean  pot  of  the  same  size. 
Do  not  isolate  plants  in  small  pots.  They  will  be  easier  to  attend  to,  and  keep  watered 
if  placed  close  together.  This  will  also  help  to  raise  the  humidity  in  the  area. 


Here  are  a few  basic  rules  which  should  always  be 
followed:  (1)  Don’t  overpot  (2)  Use  a sterilized  medium  (3) 
Use  sterilized  pots.. .in  other  words,  keep  it  small  and  clean! 


In  order  to  look  their  very  best  in  containers,  bushy  plants  like  H.  multiflora, 
cumingiana  and  the  closely  related  H.  densifolia.. .gracefully  pendant  forms  such  as 
H.  bella  and  polyneura,  and  the  hanging  and  dangling  types,  such  as  H.  tsangii,  and 
nummularioides  need  a container  of  a different  type.  Wire  baskets  lined  with  moss, 
then  a layer  of  burlap  or  fine  mesh  material  to  hold  in  the  soil  mixture  makes  an 
especially  attractive  display  for  these  types  of  plants.  As  they  grow  and  mature  they 
may  root  on  the  damp  moss  along  the  sides  and  even  send  runners  out  the  sides 
and  bottom. 

H.  serpens,  a small  creeping  species  from  the  cool  Himalayan  regions,  places 
swept  by  monsoon  breezes,  seem  to  prefer  a shallow  container  kept  moist  and 
shaded.  A cool,  semi  shady  spot  under  a bench  seems  ideal.  On  a moss  covered 
log,  it  will  grow  over  the  edge  and  dangle  down.  Tree  trunks  and  horizontal  limbs 
in  semi  shade  are  ideal  situations  for  this  and  other  small  species,  and  are  especially 
appealing  to  our  desire  for  a natural  setting. 


18 


C hapter  5 


»»»»»»  Hang-Em-High 


Immediately  striking  you  with  their  brilliant  display  of  dazzling  flowers,  gorgeous 
foliage,  and  dramatic  form,  Hoyas  on  display  take  on  a special  perspective  when 
suspended  in  the  air.  Hanging  gardens  are  not  a novelty,  as  they  have  been  around 
for  thousands  of  years  (Remember  the  Hanging  Gardens  of  Babylon).  In  growing 
hanging  plants,  you  need  not  abandon  any  of  the  basic  techniques  used  in  container 
gardening  on  the  ground.  All  you  will  need  is  an  overhead  support  from  which  to 
hang  your  plant.. .and  a hanger.  Inspiration  can  help  to  select  the  site. ..imagination 
can  help  to  construct  the  hanger. 


Selecting  the  Site 


There  are  many  possibilities  outdoors  for  hanging  plants.  If  you  already  have  a 
particular  plant  in  mind,  or  several  that  you  want  to  hang,  consider  these  factors 
when  choosing  a location  for  your  hanging  garden:  Make  sure  the  supporting 
structure  is  strong  enough  to  support  both  the  plants  and  their  containers;  nature’s 
elements  such  as  sun,  wind,  and  shade,  and  above  all. ..whether  the  location  is 
convenient  for  you. 

All  Hoyas  love  early  morning  sun.  Try  to  pick  a spot  that  gets  full  sun  from  about 
7:00  A.M.  to  10:00  A.M.,  then  bright  shade  the  remainder  of  the  day.  There  are 
some  few  Hoyas  that  can  take  more  sun  than  this.  H.  cumingiana  for  one  seems 
to  prefer  considerably  more  sun  than  others,  but  even  with  this  one,  it  is  best  to 
expose  it  gradually  to  a sunnier  position,  rather  than  all  at  once. 

The  dry  winds  of  summer  can  play  havoc  with  a hanging  plant.  Not  only  can  it  dry 
out  the  potting  medium  extremely  fast,  if  the  humidity  is  low  the  foliage  can  lose 


19 


moisture  faster  than  it  can  absorb  it  from  the  roots,  leading  to  severe  wilt.  The  thinner 
leaved  plants  will  usually  recover  as  soon  as  it  cools  off  in  the  evening. ..the  thick 
leaved  plants  don’t  recover  so  easily.  Mist  your  plants  often  during  extremely  hot, 
dry  weather.  The  wind  can  also  get  a hanging  plant  to  swinging  so  energetically, 
that  it  comes  crashing  to  the  ground.  In  spite  of  these  hazards,  Hoyas  do  love  the 
outdoors,  and  even  most  of  the  stubborn  bloomers  will  reward  you  with  a shower 
of  blossoms  after  a few  months  outside. 


Along  a walkway  «««««« 


One  of  the  most  beautiful  settings  for  H.  compacta  (the  Indian  Rope  Hoya),  and 
the  Hoya  known  as  H.  Krinkle  8,  is  hanging  from  the  eaves  of  a wide  walkway 
or  balcony.  These  plants  are  similar  in  appearance,  and  both  have  stunning 
variegated  versions  that  add  even  more  value  to  their  use  as  hanging  plants.  H. 
compacta  has  tightly  twisted  and  contorted  leaves,  and  looks  best  if  three  or  four 
plants  are  placed  in  a very  large  pot.  This  is  one  Hoya  that  seems  to  like  being 
overpotted,  and  will  quickly  grow  into  a lovely  specimen  plant  with  a beautiful 
cascading  habit.  The  H.  Krinkle  8 may  be  one  of  the  most  desireable  of  all  Hoyas 
for  use  in  a hanging  garden.  The  foliage  of  this  plant  flows  out  of  its  container  and 
cascades  gracefully  over  the  sides  like  a waterfall.  Both  of  these  Hoyas  are 
excellent  bloomers,  and  fairly  cold  tolerant  compared  to  other  Hoya  species.  Don’t 
leave  them  out  if  the  temperature  is  going  to  drop  below  45°  F.  (7°  C.). 


Entries  and  Porches  «««««« 


What  could  be  a more  welcome  sight  for  your  guests  than  a pair  of  Hoyas 
suspended  from  the  overhang  above  an  entry  or  porch.  They  could  also  frame  a 
door  or  window,  or  counterbalance  low  growing  shrubs.  Make  sure  that  plants  hung 
in  these  areas  don’t  interfere  with  traffic  patterns  or  create  unnecessary  obstacles. 


The  Patio  or  Terrace 


If  you  have  a shade  roof  or  a wide  overhang  above  your  patio,  you  have  the  ultimate 
hanging  garden  display  case.  There  is  no  other  location  where  plants  can  make 
such  an  impressive  impact.  You  can  lay  on  the  lounge  and  watch  them  grow.  You 
can  eat  your  meals  among  your  plants  (breakfast  is  nice).  A shady  patio  with  a 
porch  swing,  and  lots  of  green  growing  plants  is  a welcome  and  peaceful  setting 


20 


after  a hard  days  work.. .and  because  patios  and  terraces  are  an  extension  of  the 
house  itself,  your  plants  are  always  just  a few  steps  away  and  can  be  enjoyed  from 
inside  or  outside. 


Always  keep  an  eye  on  the  weather,  and  remember  that  the  majority  of 
Hoyas  are  basically  tropical  plants  from  countries  where  temperatures 
. seldom  drop  below  60°  F.  (15°  C.).  Have  a place  inside  ready  for  warmth 
loving  species  in  case  the  temperature  drops  suddenly.  This  can  be  the 
1 floor  of  a spare  bedroom,  a utility  room  or  any  other  place  inside  where  the 
| temperature  can  be  kepi  above  60°  F.  (15°  C.).  Hopefully,  This  is  merely 
an  emergency  situation  and  won’t  last  long.  In  any  case,  you  will  need  to 
prepare  a more  permanent  location  indoors  as  Summer  fades  and  Fall 

approaches. 


Hanging  Plants  Indoors 


Plants  in  decorative  hanging  containers  are  the  perfect  accent  for  the  kitchen  or 
breakfast  room.  They  provide  a garden  atmosphere,  and  offer  a feeling  of  tranquility 
to  the  usual  morning  rush. 

Most  modern  kitchens  nowadays  have  at  least  one  large  window...  usually  over 
the  sink.  Ideally,  this  window  should  also  face  east  where  it  will  have  the  benefit  of 
the  first  rays  of  the  morning  sun.  If  however,  your  one  and  only  kitchen  window 
faces  a different  direction  and  is  far  from  the  sink,  it  can  still  be  utilized  as  a setting 
for  a hanging  garden. 

Select  your  plants  for  these  areas  with  great  care.  Keep  in  mind  that  your  kitchen 
is  the  busiest  place  in  the  house,  so  you  won’t  want  a plant  with  a huge  spreading 
habit,  nor  one  that  constantly  dangles  in  everyone’s  face. 

If  your  windows  face  south  or  west,  the  sunlight  close  to  a window  may  be  too 
intense.  Before  locating  your  plants  in  or  near  a window  that  receives  direct  sun, 
consider  putting  up  a sun  shield  of  some  sort.  This  device  can  be  as  simple  as  a 
thin  curtain,  Venetian  blinds,  or  a folding,  dressing  room  privacy  screen.  Or.. .choose 
a location  off  to  the  side  of  a window,  where  it  will  receive  light  at  an  angle  instead 
of  head-on.  Do  watch  your  plants!  Pale,  dull  looking  foliage  may  indicate  that  it  is 
receiving  too  much  light,  while  weak,  spindly  growth,  and  dropping  leaves  are  a sure 
sign  of  inadequate  light. 

In  the  Hoya  genus  there  are  many  species  that  are  considered  miniature  and  semi 
miniature  in  size.  H.  lacunosa  is  a small  growing  plant  that  prefers  the  subdued  light 
from  a north,  or  northeast  facing  window,  and  loves  the  warmth  and  humidity  of  a 


21 


kitchen  or  bathroom.  The  unidentified  species  labeled  H.  sp.  Kutching  Borneo  (I ML# 
232)  is  another  ideally  suited  plant  for  these  conditions.  There  are  numerous  others 
that  will  do  equally  well,  but  it  may  take  some  experimenting  on  your  part  to  find  the 
perfect  plant  for  that  perfect  spot. 

If  your  window  faces  east,  you  have  a very  large  selection  from  which  to  choose. 
Virtually  all  Hoyas  will  do  well  in  this  situation.  Your  main  concern  will  be  in  the 
eventual  size  of  the  plant.  Never  forget  that  there  are  literal  monsters  in  the  Hoya 
genus  that  can  grow  to  60  feet  tall  with  a spread  of  4 or  5 feet  across,  and  have 
stalks  the  diameter  of  broomsticks.  They  can  weigh  up  to  1 00  pounds  or  more,  and 
are  better  suited  to  a container  on  the  ground.  Among  the  giants  are:  H.  meliflua, 
H.  fraterna,  H.  kerrii,  H.  obovata,  H.  macrophylla,  H.  polystachya,  H.  diversifolia,  H. 
meredithii,  H.  fuscomarginata,  H.  imperialis,  and  the  plant  known  as  H.  diversifolia 
B.  Remember  also  that  several  of  these  exude  a thick  black  nectar  that  can  actually 
ruin  furnishings  and  rugs.  These  are  just  a few  of  the  largest  of  the  known  species. 
There  are  many  that  are  borderline,  and  although  they  can  grow  very  tall,  the  stems 
are  thinner  and  thus  more  flexible  and  suitable  for  twining  around  a hoop  or 
otherwise  tamed  to  fit  the  available  space. 


The  High  Wire  Act  «««««« 


Now  that  you  have  selected  the  plants,  and  chosen  the  location,  it  is  time  to 
consider  the  container,  and  by  what  method  it  will  take  to  the  air. 

Containers  can  be  anything  from  the  nursery  pot  that  the  plants  were  purchased 
in,  to  all  kinds  of  fancy  ceramic  pots  made  especially  for  such  plantings.  Containers 
are  for  eye  appeal  alone,  and  there  is  nothing  to  limit  your  choice  except  lack  of 
imagination.  One  word  of  advice. ..be  careful  of  planting  directly  into  pots  without 
drainage  holes.  It  is  much  wiser  to  allow  your  plant  to  remain  in  a pot  with  good 
drainage.  You  can  always  set  this  pot  down  inside  of  an  ornamental  one  with  a 
layer  of  gravel. ..Nobody  else  ever  needs  to  know,  and  you  can  draw  off  any  excess 
water  from  an  over-enthusiastic  watering  with  a turkey  baster. 

Unless  you  have  the  time  to  carry  each  pot  to  the  sink  for  watering  each  week,  and 
the  patience  to  wait  for  them  to  finish  dripping  before  hanging  them  back  up,  it  is 
absolutely  essential  that  your  plant  containers  should  have  some  method  for 
catching  water  drips.  Plastic  hanging  baskets  almost  always  come  with  detachable 
saucers.  Unfortunately  these  saucers  are  usually  quite  shallow  and  unless  you 
water  with  a very  light  hand,  you  will  get  an  overflow  onto  your  floor.  Got  an  old 
umbrella?. ..hang  it  upside  down  on  the  rim  of  your  pot.  It  will  catch  all  the  drips 
while  you  carry  on  with  the  rest  of  your  household  chores. 


22 


»»»»»»  Insects  & Diseases  «««««« 


»»»»»»  Diseases 


Hoyas  in  general  are  subject  to  few  diseases.  Well  grown  plants,  given  the  proper 
environment,  are  for  the  most  part  disease  free.  Under  stress  such  as  extremely 
moist  (high  humidity)  conditions  for  extended  periods  of  time,  Hoyas  are  subject  to 
fungus  diseases.  The  fungus  phomomis  attacks  Hoyas  as  well  as  the  fungus 
anthracnosis,  though  the  occurrences  are  so  rare  and  isolated  as  to  be  insignificant. 
Seedling  plants  are  subject  to  the  damp-off  organisms  which  girdle  the  tender  shoot 
at  the  soil  line.  This  can  be  prevented  or  controlled  with  the  use  of  a systemic 
fungicide  like  Benomyl  or  copper  based  fungicides  used  according  to  directions. 

It  is  a known  fact  that  when  large  populations  of  one  plant  are  grown  in  close 
proximity,  it  is  more  likely  that  an  opportunistic  pest  will  attack.  So  far  we  have  not 
seen  many  common  plant  diseases  in  Hoyas,  probably  because  of  the  limited 
number  of  very  large  Hoya  collections.  It  is  assumed  that  eventually  we  will  face  the 
invasion  of  plant  viruses.  Cultural  methods  can  help  protect  us  from  this  blind  side 
attack.  Always  use  sterile  potting  material,  and  be  sure  pots  are  new  or  scrubbed 
thoroughly  and  rinsed  in  a 1 0%  solution  of  Clorox  if  old  pots  are  to  be  reused.  Rinse 
thoroughly  in  clear  water  to  remove  any  chlorine  left  behind.  Although  many  people 
prefer  the  old  fashioned  clay  pot,  the  newer  plastics  are  ideal,  in  that  the  smooth 
non-porous  surfaces  lend  themselves  so  well  to  sterilization  and  re-use.  As  Clorox 
tends  to  rust  steel,  pruning  and  cutting  instruments  should  be  dipped  into  a Lysol 
solution  between  each  cut  to  prevent  spreading  a viral  infection  from  one  plant  to 
another.  Most  of  us  will  not  go  to  such  trouble  but  if  you  suspect  a virus,  the  above 
precautions  will  become  a necessity.  As  with  Orchids,  a virus  infected  plant  is  best 
destroyed.  Even  a suspicious  plant  should  be  isolated.  Viruses  usually  indicate  their 
presence  as  a yellowish  mottling  of  an  otherwise  green  leaf,  or  a fading  of  the  green 
along  the  veins.  Zinc  and  iron  deficiency  may  also  cause  this  latter  pattern  in  leaves. 


»»»»»»  Insects  «««««« 


Insects  are  the  greater  problem  with  Hoyas.  Aphids  are  usually  the  most  prevalent 
pest,  and  several  species  of  aphid  are  fond  of  Hoyas.  Different  areas  will  have 
different  aphids  to  contend  with.  The  green  peach  aphid,  oat  bird  cherry  aphid  and 
the  yellow  oleander  aphid  are  a few  of  the  more  common  types.  You  can  find  aphids 
of  one  kind  or  another,  on  just  about  every  plant  in  your  yard.  You  will  also  find  them 
in  your  greenhouse  if  they  have  an  easy  way  in.  This  can  be  by  intake  fans  that  pull 


23 


them  in  from  outside,  they  can  be  brought  in  on  your  clothes,  or  they  can  get  in 
through  the  tiniest  crack  in  a screened  in  window.  Aphids,  as  well  as  some  species 
of  mealybug  and  scale  share  a rather  sophisticated  technique  of  giving  birth  to  live 
young  females  during  the  summer  months.  These  females  are  born  pregnant  and 
begin  to  produce  live  young  females  of  their  own  within  a matter  of  24  hours  after 
birth.  At  this  point.. .no  males  are  needed,  so  none  are  born.  By  late  fall,  there  will 
be  males  as  well  as  females  being  born.  The  males  always  have  wings  but  only 
some  of  the  females  do.  Sexual  mating  takes  place. ..the  males  die,  and  the  winged 
females  usually  take  off  to  find  greener  pastures  elsewhere.  The  unwinged  females 
remain  behind  and  reproduce  by  laying  eggs  that  overwinter  in  the  rafters  of  your 
greenhouse,  in  material  in  your  propagating  bench,  and  possibly  even  in  your  pots. 
These  eggs  hatch  out  in  the  spring,  all  females,  already  pregnant  and  ready  to 
produce  offspring  by  the  millions.  Although  the  most  persistent  pest,  they  are  also 
the  easiest  to  kill.  Aphids  prefer  the  new  growth,  stem  terminals  and  the  underside 
of  tender  new  foliage.  Crush  them  by  hand,  or  dab  them  with  an  alcohol  soaked 
cotton  swab.  Diluted  alcohol  in  a spray  bottle  will  cover  more  area  if  you  have  a lot 
of  affected  plants.  If  the  situation  gets  out  of  hand,  you  may  have  to  resort  to  an 
insecticide  such  as  Malathion  or  Cygon  used  according  to  directions.  A second  or 
even  third  application  may  be  necessary. 

In  many  areas  of  the  world  it  is  the  mealybug  that  growers  will  encounter  most 
often,  and  always  seem  to  be  present  to  some  extent.  Mealybugs  look  like  small 
white  wooly  globs  of  cotton.  They  seem  to  prefer  the  pubescent  plant  types,  but  are 
by  no  means  limited  to  these  Hoyas.  Favored  places  for  mealy  bugs  to  congregate 
and  lay  their  eggs  are  in  protected  areas  such  as  in  leaf  axils,  and  where  stems 
cross  or  twine  together.  In  the  case  of  the  indian  rope  Hoya  they  nest  deep  within 
the  twisted  leaves  and  are  almost  impossible  to  eradicate.  The  young  are  so  small 
they  can  easily  be  overlooked.  Treatment  for  this  pest  is  the  same  as  for  aphids. 
Be  ever  watchful  for  their  presence,  and  keep  after  them  or  they  will  get  ahead  of 
you. 

Although  we  don’t  see  them  quite  as  often  as  mealybug,  scale  is  another  frequent 
visitor  to  our  Hoyas.  Usually  tan  to  dark  brown  in  color  and  dome  shaped,  these 
insects  look  more  like  a blister  than  an  insect.  A few  days  after  hatching,  or  in  many 
cases,  live  birth,  they  attach  themselves  to  the  stems  or  leaves  of  plants,  lose  their 
eyes  and  legs,  and  remain  in  one  spot  their  entire  life.  Even  on  close  inspection 
they  look  as  If  they  were  part  of  the  plant  itself.  Scale  is  extremely  hard  to  control 
if  it  gets  a foothold  on  your  plants.  Mainly  because  the  babies,  or  crawlers  as  they 
are  called,  will  run  underneath  the  Mother  who  has  a hollowed  out  depression  on 
the  underside  of  her  abdomen  at  the  first  sign  of  danger.  Even  if  the  Mother  dies 
these  babies  are  well  protected,  as  are  any  eggs  that  have  not  as  yet  hatched.  This 
is  a situation  that  definitely  needs  the  use  of  an  insecticide. 


24 


Outdoors 


It  is  a futile  exercise  to  try  to  control  insects  and  pests  inside  a greenhouse  without 
giving  attention  to  what  surrounds  it.  It  is  usually  these  outdoor  areas  that  harbor 
the  initial  pests  that  infest  our  plants.  Lots  of  weeds  close  to  the  greenhouse  could 
mean  scores  of  grasshoppers  and  crickets  mowing  down  your  plants.  Clean  out 
the  weeds  and  either  haul  them  away  or  burn  them.  Berry  vines  and  Ivy  make  a 
beautiful  setting  for  a greenhouse;  they  are  also  famous  hangouts  for  snails  and 
slugs.  I’ve  never  known  of  a slug  that  wouldn’t  leave  a bed  of  Ivy  to  spend  a week 
or  two  in  a nice,  moist  greenhouse  full  of  Hoyas.  The  destruction  they  can  wreak  in 
one  night  is  frightful.  Clear  back  all  vines  to  six  feet  or  more  from  your  greenhouse. 
Use  metaldahide  based  baits  and  liquids,  and  use  them  often  to  keep  the  population 
of  these  ugly  beasts  to  a minimum.  If  you  find  a newly  chewed  leaf,  examine  the 
plant  the  following  evening  just  after  dark.  Insects,  snails  and  slugs  included,  have 
a biological  affinity  or  preference  for  the  nutrients  from  the  same  plant  or  species 
once  they  have  fed  on  it,  and  will  stick  to  the  same  food  source  before  moving  on. 

Other  pests  you  may  encounter  are  rodents,  usually  mice  or  rats  that  will 
occasionally  find  their  way  to  our  Hoyas.  A rat  can  mow  down  plants  with  a lust. 
Any  large  animal,  including  dogs  and  cats,  can  wreak  havoc  to  precious  plants.  Act 
accordingly!  Screen  off  all  vents,  coolers  and  other  openings  so  animals  do  not 
become  entangled  or  endangered. 

It  is  possible  that  other  insects  and  diseases  may  occasionally  become  a nuisance. 
In  extremely  dry  conditions  (low  humidity),  red  spider  mites  and  thrips  can  be  a real 
problem.  Spider  mites  especially,  because  they  do  not  respond  to  the  usual 
pesticides,  and  need  a specific  miticide  to  eradicate  them.  The  chewing  mouthparts 
of  spider  mites  leave  a silvering  or  silver  speckles  and  a very  sick  look  to  all  plants 
infested  with  them.  If  you  are  unfamiliar  with  the  symptoms  affecting  your  plants,  or 
need  help  with  finding  a particular  control  method,  contact  a professional.  Most 
sales  people  at  your  local  garden  center  have  been  hired  for  the  summer  and  usually 
don’t  know  anymore  about  the  subject  than  you  do.  Your  best  source  of  information 
would  be  the  agent  for  the  Department  of  Agriculture  of  whatever  country  you 
happen  to  live  in.  As  an  alternative,  almost  every  library  in  the  world  has  illustrated 
books  that  can  help  you  to  pin  down  what  your  problem  is. 

Once  you  start  a control  program,  make  sure  you  continue  long  enough  to 
completely  solve  the  problem.  It  does  no  good  to  spray  or  dip  your  plants  once  and 
then  stop  the  treatment.  There  is  bound  to  be  bugs  that  you  miss,  as  well  as  eggs 
that  continue  to  hatch  out  to  start  the  next  generation.  A word  of  WARNING:  Be 


25 


extremely  cautious  with  any  insect  spray.  These  are  poisonous!  If  at  all  possible, 
move  your  plants  outdoors,  wear  protective  clothing  and  gloves...  and  always  use 
insecticides  at  the  recommended  rates  and  dilutions  as  stated  on  the  label. 


26 


C hapter  6 


»»»»»»  Plant  Names 


All  plants  came  into  the  world  without  names.  In  an  attempt  to  communicate  and 
to  distinguish  one  plant  from  another,  man  has  given  each  individual  plant  a 
name.  In  the  beginning,  these  names  were  in  the  local  languages,  and  were  mostly 
descriptive.  Buttercup  for  instance  or  Skullcap.  Many  were  descriptive  of  a use, 
such  as  Post  Oak.  These  common  names  can  be  misleading,  especially  to  a visitor 
from  another  area  with  a different  language.  Even  among  the  English  speaking 
countries  of  the  world  the  term  "Post  Oak"  was  used  (still  is)  for  many  different  Oak 
species.  As  long  as  an  oak  was  fairly  straight  it  was  considered  suitable  for  posts 
and  thus  called  a "Post  Oak".  In  the  Philippines,  our  common  Portulaca  is  called 
Vietnam  Rose.  Now  that’s  downright  confusing!.  The  usefulness  of  a "common" 
name  is  most  useful  only  in  a local  context. 

These  common  names  applied  to  plants  can  be  used  in  our  day  to  day 
communication  with  others  in  our  own  region,  and  for  the  most  part  cause  no  great 
problem.  There  are  no  rules  or  authority  to  render  judgement  on  our  use  of  them. 
We  are  free  to  call  any  blue  flower  that  hangs  like  a bell  a Bluebell.  Once  we  move 
out  of  our  immediate  locality  or  region  this  system  becomes  very  confusing.  The 
people  30  miles  to  the  West  may  call  the  lupine  a Bluebell,  which  also  has  tiny,  blue, 
bell  shaped  flowers. 

Considering  the  vast  number  of  different  plants  known  in  the  world,  estimated  at 
over  300,000,  with  more  being  discovered  and  described  daily,  it  is  no  wonder  that 
a way  had  to  be  found  so  people  around  the  world  could  generally  agree  with  the 
principle  by  which  a name  choice  was  made.  Some  universal  structure  or  set  of 
rules  that  all  would  be  willing  to  follow.  This  search  resulted  in  "scientific"  names 
controlled  by  the  International  Code  of  Botanical  Nomenclature. 


27 


What  is  the  difference  between  a common  name  and  a scientific  name?  What 
makes  one  internationally  accepted  and  the  other  not?  According  to  international 
agreement,  all  scientific  names  are  to  be  written  and  presented  in  Latin.  Why  Latin, 
a dead  language  seldom  used  anymore?  Since  Latin  is  no  longer  the  official 
language  of  any  country,  its  very  use  can  cross  all  international  boundaries  without 
any  nationalistic  discontent.  Latin  was  and  still  is  the  perfect  apolitical  language. 
Individual  Latin  words  however  have  evolved  to  find  their  way  into  nearly  every 
western  language  to  a great  degree,  and  in  forms  most  of  us  do  not  even  recognize. 

By  trial  and  error  and  over  much  time  it  was  realized  by  learned  men  that  the 
most  workable  naming  system  would  be  by  utilizing  two  and  only  two  parts  for 
the  naming  of  any  plant.  The  first  a generic  name,  the  plant  "Genus".  The  second 
a specific  name  which  would  be  applied  to  an  individual  kind  of  plant,  the  plants 
"Species"  name.  When  the  medical  doctor  Carl  Linne  (Linnaeus)  formerly  applied 
this  "Binomial  System"  in  his  book  "Species  Plantarum"  in  1753,  the  system  was 
confirmed.  The  International  Code  of  Botanical  Nomenclature  thus  dates  from  1 
May  1753  and  is  recognized  as  the  official  beginning  for  "Scientific"  plant  names. 
The  value  of  these  "Scientific"  names  lies  in  the  universal  acceptance  of  this  "code". 
The  code  standardizes  the  use  of  the  binomial  system  of  nomenclature  in  Latin  as 
the  official,  non  political,  non  sectarian  language  in  standard  Roman  alphabetical 
letters.  Man  being  what  he  is,  must  still  use  his  own  judgement  in  deciding  the 
correctness  of  names  and  their  application.  The  correctness  of  which  name  goes 
with  which  particular  plant  still  requires  human  judgement.  The  Code  is  merely  the 
framework  for  these  judgments.  The  International  Code  is  still  being  fine  tuned  as 
a set  of  articles  and  explanations  by  which  plants  are  to  be  named.  The  latest 
publication  is  dated  1988  and  was  adopted  by  the  14th  International  Botanical 
Congress  held  in  Berlin  Germany  in  July-August  1987. 


28 


Chapter  7 


What  Hoya  Species  Are  Found  Where 


Let’s  start  in  the  West  and  work  our  way  East  and  south  and  look  at  the  hoyas 
named  and  described  from  each  location.  Keep  in  mind  that  the  taxonomy  of 
species  is  always  in  flux.  This  is  especially  true  of  our  genus,  since  it  is  only  recently 
that  a concentrated  effort  has  been  made  to  systematically  study  these  plants.  Many 
names  may  be  found  that  are  synonymous,  many  will  be  lumped  together  by 
taxonomists  who  interpret  species  in  a broad  sense.  New  species  will  be  discovered 
as  more  intensive  collecting  continues  and  lastly.. .some  will  become  extinct  in  the 
future.  I have  designated  the  country,  the  species  name,  followed  by  the  author 
and  the  date  published.  A few  of  the  species  listed  are  no  longer  considered  to  be 
in  the  Hoya  genus. 


Sri  Lanka  (Ceylon) 


alexicaca  Moon 

1824 

hirsuta  Moon 

1824 

lacuna  Wight 

1834 

ovalifolia  Wight 

1834 

reticulata  Moon 

1894 

veridiflora  Brown 

1909 

wightiana  Thwaites 

1864 

29 


India  & Burma 


acuminata  Bentham  ex  Hooker  f.  1 883 

acuta  Haworth  1821 

aldrichii  Hemsley  1890 

angustifolia  Lindley 

arnottiana  Wight  1834 

bella  Hooker  1848 

bhutanica  Gierson  & Long  1979 

brunoniana  Wight  1834 

burmanica  Rolfe  1920 

collettii  Schlechter  1913 

crassifolia  Haworth  1837 

edenii  King  ex  Hooker  1 883 

esculenta  T siang  1 936 

fusca  Wallich  1831 

globulosa  Hooker  1882 

gonoloboides  Regel  1883 

griffithii  Hooker  f.  1883 

griffithiana  Decaisne  1883 

gymnanthera  Wight  1834 

hookeriana  Wight  1834 

iconum  Santapua  1956 

kanyakumariana  Henry  & Swam.  1 978 

lanceolata  Wallich  ex  D.  Don  1 825 

linearis  Wallich  1834 

lobbii  Hooker  f.  1 883 

lacuna  Wight  1837 

longifolia  Wallich  1834 


30 


manipurensis  Deb 

1955 

micrantha  Hooker  f. 

1883 

nummmularia  Decne.  ex  Hooker 

1883 

obcordata  Hooker  f. 

1883 

obreniformis  King 

1910 

oblanceolata  Hooker  f. 

1883 

ovalifolia  Wight  & Arnott 

1834 

pallida  Dalz  & Gibs 

1861 

pallida  Lindley 

1826 

parasitica  Wallich 

1830 

parasitica  (acuta)  Haworth 

1821 

patviflora  Wight 

1834 

pauciflora  Wight 

1848 

pendula  Wight  & Arn 

1834 

planiflora  Wallich  ex  Hooker  f. 

1861 

polyneura  Hooker  f. 

1883 

retusa  Dalz 

1883 

serpens  Hooker  f. 

1883 

shephardii  Short  ex  Hooker 

1861 

suaveolens  (Hort) 

1856 

teretifolia  Griffith  ex  Hooker 

1883 

thompsonii  Hooker  f. 

1883 

vaccinioides  Hooker 

1853 

verticillata  G.  Don 

1837 

viridifolia  R.  Brown 

1809 

viridifolia  Griffith 

1835 

volubiiis  Griffith 

1835 

wallichiana  Decaisne 

1844 

wightii  Hooker  f. 

1883 

31 


Thailand,  Malaya,  Sumatra 


acuta  Haworth 

1821 

blumeana  Schlechter 

1913 

brooksii  Ridley 

1925 

campanulata  Blume 

1826 

caudata  Hooker  f. 

1883 

citrina  Ridley 

1922 

coriacea  Blume 

1850 

coronaria  Blume 

1825 

crassifolia  Ridley 

1912 

curtisii  King  & Gamble 

1913 

cystiantha  Schlechter 

1913 

diversifolia  Blume 

1826 

endauensis  Kiew 

1988 

elliptica  Hooker  f. 

1883 

engleriana  Hosseus 

1904 

esculenta  Tsiang 

1936 

erythrina  Rintz 

1978 

erythrostemma  Kerr 

1939 

excavata  T eijsmann  & Binn. 

1863 

finlaysonii  Wight 

1834 

flagellata  Kerr 

1940 

forbesii  King  & Gamble 

1906 

globiflora  Ridley 

1915 

graveolens  Kerr 

1939 

imperialis  Lindley 

1846 

kerrii  Craib 

1911 

lacunosa  Blume 

1826 

32 


lanceolata  LindSey 

1826 

lasiantha  Korthals  ex  Blume 

1848 

latifolia  G.  Don 

1838 

macrophylla  Blume 

1826 

macrophylla  Wight 

1840 

micrantha  Hooker  f. 

1883 

maingayi  Hooker 

1883 

mitrata  Kerr 

1940 

multiflora  Blume 

1823 

obtusifolia  Wight 

1834 

occlusa  Ridley 

1912 

oreogena  Kerr 

1939 

ovalifolia  Wallich 

parasitica  Wallich 

1 830 

pachydada  Kerr 

1939 

padangensis  Schlechter 

1916 

parviflora  Wight 

1834 

parvifolia  Schlechter 

1908 

perakensis  Ridley 

1910 

plicata  King  & Gamble 

1908 

praetorii  Miquel 

1856 

purpurascens  T eijsmann  & Binn. 

1863 

pusilla  Rintz 

1978 

reticulata  Moon 

1824 

revoluta  Wight 

1883 

ridleyi  King  & Gamble 

1908 

rhodosteie  Ridley 

1923 

rufolanata  Ridley 

1923 

sarcophylla  Ridley 

1917 

33 


scortechinii  King  & Gamble 

1908 

siamica  Craib 

1911 

speciosa  Decaisne 

1844 

splendens  Maingay 

1837 

subquintuplinervis  Miquel 

1869 

sussuela  (Roxb.)  Merrill 

1917 

teysmanniana  Miquel 

1856 

treubiana  Schlechter 

1908 

uncinata  Teijsmann 

1863 

variifolia  Ridley 

1926 

wrayi  King  & Gamble 

1908 

Amboina,  Timor,  Nicobar 

alba  Kostel. 

1834 

amboinensis  Warburg 

1907 

ariadna  Decaisne 

1844 

corona  ariadnes  Blume 

1863 

laurifolia  Decaisne 

1834 

lutea  Decaisne 

1844 

lutea  Kostel. 

1834 

nicobarica  R.  Brown 

1830 

speciosa  Decaisne 

1844 

splendens  Maingay 

1837 

subquintuplinervis  Miquel 

1869 

sussuela  (Roxb.)Merrill 

1917 

rumphii  Blume 

1828 

34 


China,  Taiwan,  Hainnan,  Okinawa,  Japan 


angustifolia  Traill 

1830 

carnosa  R. Brown 

1810 

cavalerieri  Leveille 

1914 

chinensis  Traill 

1830 

cordata  Li  & Huang 

1985 

dasyantha  Tsiang 

1936 

esquirolii  Leveille 

1912 

formosana  Yamazaki 

1968 

fungi  Merrill 

1934 

hainanensis  Merrill 

1923 

kwangsiensis  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

lancilimba  Merrill 

1932 

lantsangensis  T siang 

1974 

lasiogynostegia  Li 

1984 

liangii  Tsiang 

1936 

lipoensis  Li  & Xu 

1985 

lyi  Leveille 

1907 

mengtzeensis  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

motoskei  Teijsmann  & Binnend. 

1852 

multiflora  Blume 

1823 

nervosa  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

obscurinervia  Merrill 

1923 

pallida  Lindley 

1844 

pa ndu rata  Tsiang 

1939 

picta  Siebold 

1853 

pottsii  T raill 

1830 

radicalis  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

35 


revolubilis  Tsiang 

1974 

rotundifolia  Siebold 

1841 

salweenica  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

silvatica  Tsiang  & Li 

1974 

tsoi  merrill 

1934 

tsiangiana  Li 

1984 

trinervis  Traill 

1824 

variegata  Siebold  ex  Morren 

1846 

variegata  De  Vriese 

1846 

yuennanensis  Hand-Mass. 

1936 

Laos,  Vietnam, Siam, Cambodia 


balansae  Costantin 

1912 

bonii  Costantin 

1912 

cochinchinensis  Roem.  & Schlltz. 

1817 

costantinii  Li 

1984 

diversifolia  Blume 

1826 

engleriana  Hosseus 

1907 

erythrostemma  Kerr 

1939 

flagelata  Kerr 

1940 

globosa  Lecomte 

1912 

graveolens  Kerr 

1939 

kerrii  Craib 

1911 

membranifolia  Costantin 

1912 

minima  Costantin 

1912 

mitrata  Kerr 

1940 

nummularioides  Costantin 

1912 

obcordata  Teijsmann  & Binn. 

1866 

oblongacutifolia  Costantin 

1912 

36 


1939 


oreogena  Kerr 

pachydada  Kerr  1 939 

parasitica  Wallich  1 830 

pseudolanceolata  Costantin  1912 

pseudovarifolia  Costantin  1912 

pubens  Costantin  1912 

reticulata  Costantin  1912 

rigida  Kerr  1 939 

siamica  Craib  1911 

subquintuplinervis  Miquel  1856 

vilosa  Costantin  1912 


Philippines 


alagensis  Kioppenburg 

1990 

angustifolia  Elmer 

1938 

angustisepala  Burton 

1987 

benguetensis  Schlechter 

1906 

bilobata  Schlechter 

1906 

bordenii  Schlechter 

1904 

bulusanensis  Elmer 

1938 

burtoniae  Kioppenburg 

1990 

camphorifolia  Warburg 

1904 

cagayanensis  Burton 

1987 

cardiophylla  Merrill 

1920 

cembra  Kioppenburg 

1990 

ciliata  Elmer 

1938 

ciliata  ex  Burton 

1988 

crassicaulis  Elmer 

1938 

cumingiana  Decaisne 

1844 

37 


darwinii  Loher 

1910 

edanoi  Burton 

1991 

el-nidicus  Kloppenburg 

1991 

fischeriana  Warburg 

1904 

golamcoiana  Kloppenburg 

1991 

gracilis  Schlechter 

1908 

halconensis  Kloppenburg 

1990 

heuschkeliana  Kloppenburg 

1989 

imbricata  Decaisne 

1844 

incrassata  Warburg 

1904 

kentiana  Burton 

1991 

leytensis  Elmer 

1938 

leytensis  Elmer  ex  Burton 

1991 

lindleyana  F.  Vill. 

1880 

loherii  Kloppenburg 

1991 

longipes  Schlechter  ex  Elmer 

1938 

luzonica  Schlechter 

1904 

madulidii  Kloppenburg 

1990 

mcgregorii  Schlechter 

1906 

meliflua  Blanco  ex  Merrill 

1837 

merrillii  Schlechter 

1904 

mindanensis  Elmer 

1938 

mindorensis  Schlechter 

1906 

multiflora  Blume 

1823 

obscura  Elmer 

1938 

obscura  Elmer  ex  Merrill  ex  Burton 

1986 

odorata  Schlechter 

1906 

orientalis  Li 

1984 

palawanica  Kloppenburg 

1990 

38 


panchoi  Kloppenburg 

1991 

paziae  Kloppenburg 

1990 

pentaphlebia  Merrill 

1918 

philippinensis  Li 

1984 

pseudomaxima  Koorders 

1919 

pubicalyx  Merrill 

1918 

pubifera  Elmer 

1938 

pulgarensis  Elmer 

1938 

quinquinervia  Warburg 

1904 

reflexa  Benth  & Hooker  f. 

1880 

reticulata  Merrill 

1920 

rizaliana  Kloppenburg 

1991 

rotundisepala  Elmer 

1938 

ruscifolia  Decaisne 

1844 

schallertiae  Burton 

1987 

tsangii  Burton 

1991 

Borneo 

aeschynanthoides  Schlechter 

1908 

ariadna  Decaisne 

1844 

corona  ariadnes  Blume 

1863 

diversifolia  Blume 

1826 

elmerii  Merrill 

1929 

glabra  Schlechter 

1908 

imperialis  Lindley 

1846 

lasiantha  Korthals  ex  Blume 

1846 

meredithii  Green 

1989 

multiflora  Blume 

1823 

phylura  Schwartz 

1931 

39 


sussuela  (Roxb.)  Merrill 

1917 

vacciniiflora  Schwartz 

1931 

Java 


alba  Kosteletsky 

1917 

albiflora  Zipp.  ex  Blume 

1848 

amoena  Brink 

1950 

browniana  Koorders 

1911 

cinnamomifolia  Hooker 

1848 

clandestina  Blume 

1848 

coccinea  Hort.  ex  Lem. 

1848 

coriacea  Blume 

1826 

coriacea  Zollinger  & Miquell 

1856 

densifolia  Turcz. 

1848 

diversifolia  Blume 

1826 

elegans  Kosteletsky 

1834 

fraterna  Blume 

1849 

grandiflora  Blume  ex  Decaisne 

1844 

hasseltii  Miquel 

1856 

icrassipes  T urcz. 

1848 

javanica  Boerl. 

1899 

kuhlii  Koorders 

1912 

lacunosa  Blume 

1826 

lasiantha  Korthals  ex  Blume 

1856 

laurifolia  Decaisne 

1838 

laurifolia  Miquell 

1863 

laurifoliopsis  Hochtreutner 

1936 

leembruggeniana  Koorders 

1911 

lindaueana  Koorders 

1911 

40 


longifolia  Miquel  1856 

macrophylla  Biume  1848 

magniflora  Li  1 984 

multiflora  Biume  1 826 

opposita  G.  Don  1837 

orbiculata  Waliich  1 834 

ottolanderi  Koorders  1911 

picta  Miquel  1856 

polystachya  Biume  1 849 

pubera  Biume  1826 

purpureofusca  Hooker  1 849 

recurvifolia  Zipp.  ex  Biume  1 849 

rumphii  Biume  1826 

subquaterna  Miquel  1 856 

tenggerensis  Brink  f.  1 950 

tiapeansis  Hocheutiner  1938 

treubiana  Schlechter  1908 

tjadasmalangensis  Brink  f.  1 950 

tjampeaensis  Hocheutiner  1936 

uncinata  T eijsmann  & Binn.  1 863 

velutina  Wight  1 834 

vitellina  Biume  1849 

vitellinoides  Brink  f.  1950 

zollingeriana  Mique!  1856 

Celebes,  Malacca  (Moluccas) 

ariadna  Decaisne  1844 

banoaensis  Schltr.  1908 

buruenensis  Miquel  1869 

41 


caudata  Hooker  f. 

1883 

celebica  Handl. 

1856 

ciliata  Teijsmann  & Binn. 

1866 

corona  ariadnes  Blume 

1863 

rumphii  Blume 

1826 

celebica  Handl. 

1856 

collyrioides  Teijsmann  & Binn. 

1866 

diversifolia  Blume 

1826 

dolichosparte  Schlechter 

1916 

elliptica  Hooker  f. 

1883 

excavata  Teijsmann  & Binn. 

1862 

gracilis  Schlechter 

1908 

imperialis  Lindley 

1846 

incurvula  Schlechter 

1916 

maingayi  Hooker  f. 

1883 

maxima  Teijsmann 

1863 

maxima  (Karst)  Warburg 

1907 

minahassae  Schlechter 

1916 

multiflora  Blume 

1823 

obovata  Decaisne 

1844 

opposita  G.  Don. 

1837 

parasitica  Wallich 

1830 

retusa  Warburg 

1907 

rumphii  Blume 

1826 

splendens  Maingay 

1837 

sussuela  (Rox)  Merrill 

1917 

tsiangiana  Li 

1984 

velutina  Griffith 

1854 

42 


New  Guinea 


ai  bill  ora  Zipp.  ex  Biunrte 

1852 

anulata  Schlechter 

1905 

apiculata  Scheff. 

1876 

apoda  S,  Moore 

1916 

archboldiana  C.  Norman 

1937 

biliardieri  Decaisne 

1844 

calycina  Schlechter 

1913 

chloroieuca  Schlechter 

1913 

chunii  Li 

1984 

coliina  Schlechter 

1913 

coronaria  van  papuana 

1898 

dictyoneura  Schumann 

1905 

dimorpha  Bailey 

1898 

dischorensis  Schlechter 

1913 

eitapensis  Schlechter 

1913 

epedunculata  Schlechter 

1913 

exiiis  Schlechter 

1913 

flavescens  Schlechter 

1913 

gigas  Schlechter 

1913 

giobulifera  Blume 

1849 

gracilipes  Schlechter 

1905 

halophila  Schlechter 

1913 

hellwigiana  (heilwigii)  Warburg 

1907 

hoiirungii  Warburg 

1907 

hypolasia  Schlechter 

1913 

ischnopus  Schlechter 

1913 

kenejiana  Schlechter 

1913 

43 


klossii  S.  Moore 

1916 

lactea  S.  Moore 

1914 

lamchytonianae  Schumann 

1898 

lamingtoniae  Bailey 

1898 

lanceolaria  S.  Moore 

1916 

lauterbachii  Schumann 

1896 

leucantha  S.  Moore 

1916 

leucorhoda  Schlechter 

1913 

littoralis  Schlechter 

1905 

marginata  Schlechter 

1905 

megalaster  Warburg 

1907 

microphylla  Schlechter 

1913 

microstemma  Schlechter 

1913 

montana  Schlechter 

1913 

mucronulata  Warb 

1907 

neoguineensis  Engler 

1886 

oleoides  Schlechter 

1913 

oligantha  Schlechter 

1913 

oreostemma  Schlechter 

1913 

oxycoccoides  S.  Moore 

1916 

pachyphylla  Schumann  & Lauter. 

1901 

pachypus  S.  Moore 

1914 

papillantha  Schumann 

1898 

papuana  Schlechter 

1913 

patella  Schlechter 

1913 

pedunculata  Schlechter 

1913 

peekelii  Markgraf 

1927 

piestolepis  Schlechter 

1913 

poolei  White  & Francis 

1927 

44 


1856 


pruinosa  Miquel 

pseudolittoralis  Norman  1937 

pulchella  Schlechter  1913 

purpurea  Blume  1848 

pusilliflora  S.  Moore  1916 

reticuiata  Schlechter  ex  Engler  1 91 3 

rhodostemma  Schlechter  1913 

rosea  Schumann  1905 

rubida  Schlechter  1905 

schlechteriana  S.  Moore  1916 

sogeriensis  S.  Moore  1913 

solaniflora  Schlechter  1913 

sororia  Schumann  1905 

stenophylla  Schlechter  1913 

subcalva  Burkill  1901 

subglabra  Schlechter  1913 

torricellensis  Schlechter  1913 

trigonolobus  Schlechter  1905 

venusta  Schlechter  1913 

wariana  Schlechter  1913 

Australia 

alata  Hill  1988 

aldrichii  Hemsley  1890 

australis  R.  Brown  ex  Trail  1830 

barbata  Spreng  1825 

barracki  Horne  ex  Backer  1 883 

flexuosa  Spreng.  1 820 

grandiflora  Spreng.  1820 


45 


1884 


keysii  Bailey 

lauterbachii  Schumann  1896 

littoralis  Schlechter  1905 

macgillivrayi  Bailey  1914 

nicholsoniae  Muller  1866 

oligotricha  Hill  1986 

paniculata  Spreng.  1820 

poolei  White  & Francis  1927 

pseudolitoralis  Norman  1937 

rupicola  Hill  1988 

sanae  Bailey  1897 

Ponapae 

schneei  Schlechter  1921 

Truck 

trukensis  Hosokawa  1937 

Solomon  Islands 

affinis  Hemsley  1892 

australis  (island  type)  1 830 

bicarinata  A.  Gray  1862 

cominsii  Hemsley  1890 

dodecatheiflora  Fosburg  1 940 

guppyi  Oliver  1892 

inconspicua  Hemsley  1 894 

marginata  Schlechter  1907 

naumanii  Schlechter  1908 


46 


Vanuatu  (New  Hebrides) 


australis  (island  type) 

1830 

bicarinata  A.  Gray 

1862 

neoebudica  Guillaumin 

1937 

New  Caledonia 

limoniaca  S.  Moore 

1921 

neocaledonica  Schlechter 

1906 

Fiji 

barracki  Home  ex  Baker 

1862 

bicarinata  A.  Gray 

1862 

diptera  Seemann 

1861 

intermedia  A.C.  Smith 

1942 

megalantha  T urrill 

1915 

pilosa  Seemann 

1861 

vitiensis  T urrill 

1915 

Samoa 

attenuate  Christophersen 

1935 

australis  (island  type) 

1830 

betchei  Schlechter 

1913 

bicarinata  A.  Gray 

1862 

chlorantha  Reichinger 

1908 

crassior  Hochtreutuner 

1936 

filiformis  Reichinger 

1908 

pubescens  Reinecke 

1893 

pycnophyila  Reichinger 

1908 

47 


samoensis  Seemann 


1866 


upoluensis  Reinecke 

1893 

Tonga 

bicarinata  A.  Gray 

1861 

Miscellaneous  Names 

africana  Decaisne 

1844 

albens  Miller  ex  Steud 

coriacea  Zollinger  & Miquel  1856 

crocea  T uinbouw  1 853 

dalrympliana  F.  Mull. 

1826 

esculenta  Tsiang 

1936 

fuscomarginata  N.E.  Brown 

1910 

gonoloboides  Regel  (India  ?) 

1844 

paxtonii  Nichols 

1852 

picta  (Hort) 

recurvifolia  Zipp.  ex  Blume 

sikkimensis  (Hort.) 

suaveolens  (Hort.) 

1853 

trinervia  (Hort.)  Mach,  ex  Regal 

variegata  De  Vriese 

1884 

Now  that  you  have  seen  the  list  of  species,  keep  in  mind  that  we  are  still  learning 
about  hoyas,  hoya  habitats,  and  hoya  species.  Many  on  this  list  may  be 
synonymous  with  others.  Many  may  have  extended  ranges  or  may  be  indigenous 
to  an  area  and  not  listed.  Last  there  are  undoubtedly  species  yet  to  be  found  and 
described  and  some  are  likely  to  be  extinct,  or  on  the  verge  of  extinction.  At  present 
we  have  not  collected  H.  trukensis  from  the  island  complex  of  Truk  in  the  Central 
Pacific  Islands  South/  South  East  of  Guam.  It  is  possibly  extinct.  A hoya  or  closely 
related  species,  H.  rufolanata,  a herbarium  sheet  of  which  exists  in  the  Bogor 
herbarium  in  Java  has  not  been  recollected.  The  stream  and  bordering  jungle  areas 
of  the  Sungai  Sipur  (River),  in  central  West  Malaya,  Perak  area,  where  this  species 
was  originally  collected  has  been  dredged  for  the  recovery  of  Tin.  All  vegetation  has 
been  destroyed  and  all  that  remains  are  the  continuous  mounds  of  white  sediment, 
it  is  unlikely  that  the  species  survived.  It  is  as  if  a huge  gopher  had  tunneled  up  the 
Sungai  river. 


49 


Chapter  8 


»»»»»»  Questions  About  Hoyas  «««««« 


What  was  the  first  Hoya  ever 
collected,  and  in  what  year? 

The  year  collected  is  not  certain,  but  Hoya 
carnosa  R.  Brown  was  first  published  under 
the  name  Asdepias  carnosa  Linn.  f.  in  1 781 . 
Robert  Brown  renamed  this  plant  Hoya 
carnosa  in  honor  of  Thomas  Hoy,  thereby 
establishing  a new  genus,  and  published  it  as 
Hoya  carnosa  R.  Brown  in  1810.  There  is 
strong  evidence  that  the  species  we  know  as 
H.  motoskei  was  that  original  plant. 

What  do  the  names  following  the 
species  name  mean,  such  as  H. 
angustifolia  Elmer? 

The  name  following  the  species  name  is  the 
last  name  of  the  person  publishing  that 
particular  species,  and  becomes  part  of  the 
species  name.  It  is  also  a method  for  keeping 
this  plant  apart  from  others  with  the  same 
name  such  as  H.  angustifolia  Trail  which  is  a 
totally  different  species.  It  would  be  good  to 
add  at  this  point;  that  the  first  publishing  of  a 
species  name... along  with  the  name  of  the 
author  is  the  only  plant  allowed  to  carry  this 
name,  and  any  subsequent  duplications  of 
that  particular  species  name  must  have 
another  name  selected. 


Who  are  some  of  the  botanists  or 
collectors  that  published  all  of  these 
Hoyas? 


It’s  impossible  to  name  them  all,  but  some 
of  the  familiar  names  connected  with  Hoyas 
listed  here  by  date  of  birth,  and  date  of  death 
when  known  are: 

Bentham,  George 

(1800-1884) 

Binnendijk,  Simon 

(1821-1883) 

Blanco,  Francisco  Manuel 

(1788-1845) 

Blume,  Carl  Ludwig,  Von 

(1796-1862) 

Brown,  Robert  R. 

(1773-1858) 

Costantin,  Julien  Noel 

(1857-1936) 

Craib,  William  Grant 

(1882-1933) 

Decaisne,  Joseph 

(1807-1882) 

DeVriese,  Willem  Hendrik 

(1806-1862) 

Don,  David 

(1799-1841) 

Don,  George 

(1798-1856) 

51 


Elmer,  Adolph  Daniel  Edward 

(1870-1942) 

Gamble,  James  Sykes 

(1847-1925) 

Haworlh,  Adrian  Hardy 

(1768-1833) 

Hooker,  Joseph  Dalton 

(1817-1911) 

Hooker,  William  Jackson 

(1785-1865) 

Hosseus,  Carl  Curt 

(1878-1950) 

Korthals,  Pieter  Willem 

(1807-1892) 

Kostelelzky,  Vincent  Franz 

(1801-1887) 

Leveille,  Augustin  Abel  Hector 

(1863-1918) 

Lindley,  John 

(1799-1865) 

Loher,  August , no  dates  given  other  than  that 
he  was  publishing  species  in  the  year  1910. 

Merrill,  Elmer  Drew 

(1876-1956) 

Miquel,  Friedrich  Anton 

Wilhelm 

(1811-1871) 

Moon,  Alexander,  no  birthdate 
(died) 

(1925) 

Regel,  Edward  August 

(1815-1892) 

Ridley,  Henry  Nicholas 

(1855-1956) 

Roxburgh,  William 

(1751-1815) 

Schlechter,  Friedrich  Richard 
Rudolph 

(1872-1925) 

Siebold,  Philipp  Franz  Von 

(1796-1866) 

Wallich,  Nathaniel  also  known 
as  Nathan  Wolff 

(1786-1854) 

Wight,  Robert 

(1796-1872) 

Zippelius,  Alexander 

(1797-1828) 

Zollinger,  Heinrich 

(1818-1859) 

Why  don’t  my  Hoyas  bloom? 

That  question  crops  up  in  almost  every 
conversation  that  has  ever  been  held 
concerning  Hoyas.  You  can  hear  every 
conceivable  answer,  most  of  them  wrong. 

The  truth  is,  that  if  a Hoya  is  mature  but 
hasn’t  bloomed,  it  is  usually  because  it  isn’t 
getting  enough  light. 

How  old  do  Hoyas  have  to  be  before 
they  bloom? 

There  are  too  many  Hoya  species  involved 
to  give  a pat  answer  to  that  question.  Many 
Hoyas  will  bloom  in  their  first  year  of  growth, 
some  will  take  two  years,  others  may  need 
three  or  more  years  before  they  are  mature 
enough  to  bloom.  If  conditions  aren’t 
right... mature  or  not,  they  may  never  bloom 
until  those  conditions  are  corrected. 

What  can  I do  to  correct  my  growing 
methods  in  order  to  get  flowers? 

For  the  majority  of  Hoyas,  the  magic  wand 
that  brings  on  flowers  is  extremely  bright  but 
indirect  light.. .no  direct  sun.  If  possible  the 
humidity  of  your  growing  area  should  be  kept 
above  40  percent,  60  percent  would  be  even 
better  but  hard  to  maintain  in  a home.  Keep  a 
spray  bottle  handy  and  mist  your  plants  often. 
Another  hint  that  may  help  to  bring  on  blooms 
is  to  give  them  a real  jolt  with  a feeding  or  two 
of  a high  phosphorous  fertilizer.  These 
fertilizers  are  usually  labeled  as  Bloom 
Boosters. 

Which  Hoyas  will  bloom  better  in  the 
shade? 

Many  Hoyas  will  "grow"  in  the  shade.. .most 
will  never  bloom  under  those  conditions. 

Hoya  lacunosa  seems  to  prefer  filtered  light 
for  blooms,  but  certainly  not  deep  shade  on  a 
year  round  basis. 

Do  Hoyas  bloom  just  in  the  summer? 

Some  Hoyas  bloom  in  the  spring  and 
summer,  others  bloom  off  and  on  all  year 


52 


long.  There  are  a few  Hoya  species  that 
bloom  only  in  late  fall  or  winter. 

Is  there  a "Magic"  formula  potting 
mix  that  is  better  than  any  other  for 
Hoy  as? 

Hoyas  have  a real  advantage  in  that  they 
adapt  so  readily  to  many  different  potting 
mediums  that  other  plants  would  find 
unacceptable.  Most  of  the  pre-packaged  all 
purpose  houseplant  mixes  work  great  right 
out  of  the  sack,  or  you  may  have  to  lighten 
some  of  them  with  added  perlite  (sponge 
rock).  The  main  thing  is  to  insure  fast 
drainage  so  they  don’t  remain  wet  and  soggy. 
They  must  also  be  light  enough  so  they  don’t 
become  hard  and  compacted.  Many  Hoya 
growers  use  a half  and  half  mix  of  sphagnum 
peat  moss  and  perlite  with  some  added 
dolomite  lime,  or  a calcium  source  to 
neutralize  the  acid  in  the  peat  moss.  Watch 
your  plants!  They  will  usually  let  you  know  if 
they  are  unhappy. 

Why  is  it  that  some  cuttings  will  root 
but  then  just  sit  and  do  nothing,  while 
cuttings  from  the  same  plant,  planted 
at  the  same  time  and  under  the  same 
conditions  will  grow  vigorously? 

That  is  a mystery!  Growth  hormones  within 
the  cuttings,  or  lack  of  them  is  probably  the 
cause.  If  you  have  cuttings  growing  of  the 
same  plant,  why  not  just  dump  those  that 
don't  grow.  If  it’s  an  expensive  cutting  or  one 
of  a kind,  and  you  have  the  patience  to  wait  it 
out,  they  will  eventually  put  out  new  growth. 

What  is  the  best  way  to  train  a 
straggly  looking  Hoya  to  a nice 
compact  shape? 

Wire  or  plastic  hoops  with  built  in  pot 
holders  can  be  purchased,  as  well  as  wire, 
cedar,  redwood  and  wicker  trellises.  These 
make  beautiful  displays  when  Hoyas  are 
allowed  to  twine  around  the  hoops  or  wind  in 
and  out  of  the  trellises.  The  major 
disadvantage  to  these  devices,  is  in  trying  to 
repot  a plant  that  has  spent  several  years 
entangling  themselves  in  one  of  them.  There 


is  no  way  you  can  skillfully  remove  a plant  in 
one  piece. 

Actually  the  best  way  to  contain  a climbing, 
twining  plant  is  to  wrap  the  branches  around 
the  plant  itself  as  it  grows.  Drastic  pruning 
may  be  called  for  occasionally  if  the  plant 
grows  completely  out  of  bounds. 

Are  clay  pots  better  for  planting 
Hoyas  in  than  plastic  pots? 

Whether  a Hoya  is  planted  in  day  or  plastic 
is  a matter  of  personal  preference.  They  all 
have  their  own  advantages  and 
disadvantages.  Plastic  has  been  the 
preferred  container  for  ail  types  of  plants  in 
the  past  twenty  years.  The  benefits  to  plastic 
are  that  they  are  light  weight,  relatively 
inexpensive,  easy  to  clean  for  re-use  and 
they  hold  moisture  longer  than  day,  which  is 
a real  advantage  if  the  new  soilless  mixes  are 
used.  There  are,  however,  some  growers 
who  won’t  plant  in  anything  but  clay.  Clay 
has  the  advantage  of  being  heavy  enough  to 
hold  large  growing  plants  without  tipping  over. 
They  dry  out  fairly  fast  which  is  important  if 
heavy,  soil  based  mixes  are  used.  Unlike 
plastic,  they  are  porous  so  plant  roots  stay 
cooler  in  summer. 

What  color  are  Hoya  flowers? 

Every  color  has  been  verified  in  Hoya 
flowers  except  blue  and  black.  H.  ciliata  that 
is  called  the  "black  Hoya",  is  actually  an 
extremely  dark  purple.  A few  years  ago,  an 
amateur  collector  daimed  to  have  found  a 
"true  blue"  Hoya. ..this  Hoya  turned  out  to  be 
"mauve"  which  is  a light  pinkish  purple. 

Some  of  my  Hoyas  have  beautiful 
glossy  foliage  while  others  have  a 
dull,  dusty  appearance.  Why  is  this? 

T rying  to  diagnose  what  ails  a plant  without 
seeing  the  plant  and  the  conditions  under 
which  it  is  grown  is  impossible.  Any  number 
of  things  can  cause  a plant  to  look  dull  and 
dusty,  including  which  species  it  is.  Some 
Hoya  species  don’t  have  glossy  foliage,  but 
they  look  healthy.  Make  out  a checklist  and 
write  down  these  questions:  Have  these 


53 


plants  ever  had  glossy  foliage?  Have  they 
ever  been  allowed  to  dry  out  to  a point  of 
wilting?  Have  they  been  kept  so  wet  that  the 
roots  may  have  started  rotting?  Is  your 
humidity  extremely  low?  Are  these  plants 
sitting  in  a draft  of  cold  air?  Are  they  where 
hot  air  from  a furnace  fan  can  blow  directly  on 
them?  Have  they  been  examined  for  an 
insect  infestation?  Answer  all  of  these 
questions,  and  you  can  probably  come  up 
with  an  answer.  It  is  sufficient  to  say  briefly 
that  anything  that  affects  a plant’s  root  system 
will  also  affect  the  appearance  of  the  foliage. 
Low  humidity  is  a slow  agonizing  death  for 
most  tropical  plants,  and  normally  shows  up 
first  in  the  appearance  of  the  foliage.  Low 
humidity  also  favors  a spider  mite  attack 
which  can  cause  foliage  to  look  dull  and  dusty. 

What  kind  of  plant  food  do  Hoyas 
need  for  growth  and  bloom? 

Let’s  rephrase  that  question  to  read. ..What 
chemical  elements  can  we  provide  that  will 
help  our  Hoyas  (or  any  other  plant)  to  make 
its  own  food? 

Without  getting  too  technical,  it’s  only 
necessary  to  say  that  all  "green  growing 
things"  manufacture  their  own  food  from 
sunlight  and  water.  All  we  can  do  as  their 
human  overseers  is  to  insure  that  they  have 
access  to  the  essential  chemical  elements 
that  their  natural  habitats  normally  provide  for 
them.  The  most  important  supplemental 
elements  are  nitrogen,  phosphorus  and 
potassium.  These  three  elements  are  vital 
components  of  a healthy  plant.  Without  all  of 
them,  in  proper  balance,  a plant  can’t  repair 
itself  or  build  new  cells.  Under  most 
circumstances,  a balanced  "plant  food"  such 
as  a 20-20-20  formula  is  ideal. 

What  are  the  symptoms  of  a Hoya 
that  is  deficient  in  nitrogen? 

The  lower  or  older  leaves  will  usually  turn 
yellow  or  pale,  sickly  looking  green,  dry  and 
drop  off;  some  may  become  brownish/orange. 
The  new  growth  will  rob  the  older  leaves  of 
any  chlorophyll  that  is  retained,  but  there  is 
not  enough  to  support  this  new  growth  so  it 
remains  stunted,  pale  and  often  curled  and 


distorted.  The  fastest  remedy  for  a plant  in 
this  condition  is  a foliar  feeding  with  2 
tablespoons  of  fish  emulsion  mixed  in  a gallon 
of  very  warm,  but  not  hot  water.  Mist  the 
entire  plant  very  lightly  with  this  solution.  You 
want  just  a frost  of  mist  on  the  leaves.  Do 
this  every  3 or  4 days  for  a couple  of  weeks. 
You  will  see  a definite  improvement  in  a very 
short  time. 

What  is  meant  by  the  expression 
foliar  feeding? 

Foliar  feeding  is  a method  of  getting 
nutrients  into  a plant  through  the  foliage 
instead  of  the  roots.  In  nature,  epiphytes  get 
a large  portion  of  their  nutrients  through  their 
leaves  when  rain  and  mist  washes  debris 
such  as  bird  droppings,  dead  leaves  etc. 
down  from  higher  up  in  the  tree  tops.  We  try 
to  duplicate  nature  by  using  devices  that 
apply  needed  nutrients  as  a very  fine  mist. 

Are  there  any  Hoyas  that  have  a 
natural  immunity  to  pests  such  as 
mealybugs  and  aphids? 

Nature  has  devised  some  clever  ways  for 
different  plants  to  ward  off  attacks  by  insects, 
and  also  from  larger  animals.  This  is  usually 
accomplished  through  chemical  means  (the 
plant  sap  is  poisonous  or  contains  a chemical 
that  stings).  Some  plants  have  developed 
millions  of  tiny  thorns,  others  have  developed 
huge,  wicked  looking,  and  very  dangerous 
barbs.  Hoyas  don’t  have  any  of  these 
obvious  weapons,  unless  it’s  chemical.  There 
are  some  Hoyas  that  never  seem  to  be 
bothered  with  mealybugs.  H.  micrantha  is 
one  that  I don’t  recall  ever  seeing  with 
mealybugs... or  aphids.  H.  obscura  and  H. 
plicata  are  two  that  seldom  have  aphids,  but 
will  occasionally  have  a few  mealybugs.  This 
might  be  a concept  that  no  one  has  ever 
thought  to  look  into.  Wouldn’t  it  be  great  if  we 
could  make  up  a brew  of  stewed,  immune 
Hoya  leaves  to  spray  on  our  other  Hoyas! 

What  causes  Hoya  buds  to  dry  up 
and  drop  off  without  opening,  or  fall 
off  within  a few  hours  after  opening? 


54 


Usually  Hoyas  that  dry  up  and  drop  their 
buds  have  been  allowed  to  become  too  dry 
between  waterings.  Hoyas  will  also  drop  their 
buds  if  the  potting  mixture  is  constantly  kept 
too  wet.  However  they  don’t  dry  up  in  this 
case  but  become  yellow  and  spongy,  or 
brown  and  mushy.  Your  buds  that  open  but 
fall  off  soon  after,  are  probably  placed  where 
a cool  draft  is  hitting  them  (maybe  from  a fan). 

Can  you  tell  me  which  Hoyas  grow 
wild  in  Hawaii? 

There  are  no  Hoya  species  known  to  have 
evolved  naturally  in  Hawaii.  The  Hoyas  that 
grow  there  now,  have  been  lovingly  planted 
by  the  "wild"  but  human  hands  of  a couple  of 
Hoya  collectors  that  live  there. 

What  is  the  best  way  to  remove  hard 
water  spots  from  Hoya  leaves? 

One  teaspoon  of  vinegar  (white  or  red) 
mixed  in  a pint  of  warm  water  will  remove 
most  water  spots.  Dip  a soft  cloth  in  this 
solution  and  rub  each  leaf  gently  in  a circular 
motion,  rinse  with  clear  water  and  dry  with 
another  soft  cloth.  If  you  want  a real  shine  to 
your  leaves,  try  mixing  one  teaspoon  of  real 
mayonnaise  (not  salad  dressing)  with  three 
tablespoons  of  warm  water.  Apply  to  your 
leaves  with  a cottonball  or  soft  cloth,  then 
wipe  dry.  This  formula  does  not  dog  the 
pores  of  your  leaves  like  commercial  leaf 
shine  products,  and  your  leaves  will 
absolutely  glisten. 

Will  Hoyas  grow  from  a single  leaf? 

There  are  those  who  say  they  will. ..and 
those  who  say  they  won’t.  If  all  you  had  was 
one  leaf  of  the  only  plant  of  its  kind  left  in  the 
world,  it  would  probably  be  at  least  worth  the 
effort  to  "try"  to  get  a plant  to  grow  from  that 
leaf. 

Will  Hoyas  bloom  under  fluorescent 
light? 

Absolutely!  And  some  bloom  better  than 
others.  Most  of  the  little  miniatures  and 


semi-miniatures  are  even  happier  under 
artificial  light  than  they  are  in  natural  light. 

If  I grow  Hoyas  in  a light  garden  with 
fluorescent  light,  how  many  hours  a 
day  do  I need  to  keep  the  lights  on? 

An  absolute  minimum  for  growth  is  12  to  14 
hours  per  day.  If  you’re  pushing  for  bloom,  1 4 
to  1 6 hours  is  even  better. 

What  size  pot  is  best  to  plant  Hoyas 
in? 

That  would  depend  entirely  on  how  big  the 
plant  is  that  you’re  planning  to  pot.  If  you  are 
planting  rooted  cuttings,  a 4"  pot  is  usually 
sufficient  for  up  to  a year,  or  longer  if  it’s  a 
small  growing  plant.  Pot  sizes  for  plants  that 
are  being  potted  up  to  a larger  size,  should  be 
at  least  1 " but  no  larger  than  2"  larger  than 
the  root  ball  of  your  plant. 

What’s  the  story  on  pruning 
Hoyas. ..Should  we  or  shouldn’t  we? 

An  "old  wives  tale"  that  makes  the  rounds 
quite  often,  says  "you  should  never  prune 
Hoyas  or  you  will  cut  off  the  bloom  spurs". 

That  is  partly  true!  You  will  cut  off  bloom 
spurs,  however,  the  other  part  of  the  story 
is. ..If  you  prune  a plant,  you  will  force  many 
new  branches,  and  these  new  branches  are 
usually  loaded  with  new  bloom  spurs.  Go 
ahead  and  prune  your  plants,  and  be 
prepared  for  a bushier,  prettier  plant  with  lots 
of  flowers. 

When  is  the  best  time  of  the  year  to 
repot  Hoyas? 

Just  as  a plant  is  getting  ready  to  go  into  a 
period  of  active  growth  is  the  ideal  time  to 
repot.  There  may  be  times  that  for  one 
reason  or  another  you  may  have  to  consider 
repotting  at  some  other  time.  This  normally 
doesn’t  affect  Hoyas  one  way  or  another 
They  usually  come  through  it  with  flying  colors. 

Is  there  any  advantage  to  mixing 
"birth  control  pills"  into  potting  mix? 


55 


Several  years  ago  there  was  a flurry  of 
excitement  about  the  wonderful  results  that 
could  be  had  by  using  birth  control  pills  in  all 
kinds  of  plants.  After  a short  while,  no  more 
was  heard  about  birth  control  pills  for  plants. 

I have  had  a plant  of  H.  serpens  for 
several  years.  It  struggles  to  stay 
alive  and  has  never  bloomed.  Should 
I give  up  the  idea  of  growing  it? 

Hoya  serpens  is  a beautiful  little  miniature 
species,  and  if  they  are  happy,  they  grow  and 
bloom  as  well,  if  not  better  than  many  other 
Hoyas.  Remember  that  H.  serpens  is  a 
miniature  creeper  with  very  tiny  roots.  It 
doesn’t  like  deep  pots,  or  soil  based  mixes, 
so  the  preferred  method  for  growing  is  in  a 
shallow  bed  of  sphagnum  peat  moss.  This 
peat  moss  can  be  packed  in  a shallow  tray, 
stapled  to  a piece  of  cork  bark  or  a small 
log.. .any  number  of  ways.  Let  your 
imagination  run  wild.  You  will  probably  have 
more  success  with  this  method  by  rooting 
some  new  cuttings  in  sphagnum  peat  or 
coarse  vermiculite.  You  may  use  cuttings 
taken  from  your  old  plant,  but  don’t  use  the 
plant  itself.  If  the  plant  has  been  struggling 
for  its  very  life  as  you  said,  there  is  probably 
very  few  roots  left  anyway.  Take  as  many 
cuttings  as  you  can,  then  throw  the  old  plant 
away.  The  type  of  light  these  creepers 
receive  on  the  forest  floor  is  rather  dim  light 
that  filters  through  the  foliage  of  the  taller 
underbrush.  They  probably  spend  several 
hours  each  day  in  dense  shade,  so  they 
normally  do  better  in  cultivation  than  they  do 
in  the  wild,  because  they  receive  more  light. 
Give  them  lots  of  light  in  the  winter,  then 
move  them  to  an  area  that  gets  very  early 
morning  sun  with  bright  shade  the  rest  of  the 
day  for  the  summer  months. 

Some  books  say  to  use  phosphorus 
for  flower  production,  others  say 
potassium. ..which  is  correct? 

Actually  both  of  these  elements  help  to 
promote  buds  and  flower  production,  however 
all  the  fertilizer  products  on  the  market  that 
claim  to  be  "blossom  boosters"  have  a higher 


middle  number,  which  is  always  the 
phosphorus  analysis. 

A friend  of  mine  says  Hoyas  are  in 
the  African  Violet  family,  I say  they 
are  in  the  Orchid  family.  Who  is  right? 

Sorry,  neither  one  of  you  are!  Hoyas  are  in 
the  Asdepiadaceae  or  Milk  Weed  family, 
which  contains  among  other  genera 
Ceropegias,  Stephanotis,  Stapelia  and  the 
beautiful  Asclepias  which  the  tribe  or  plant 
family  was  named  after. 

Are  there  places  where  Hoyas  can 
grow  outside  all  year? 

Certainly,  they  grow  outside  in  their  native 
habitat!  I’m  sure  you  must  be  referring  to 
specific  areas  in  the  United  States  such  as 
Florida,  Southern  California,  Hawaii,  etc. 
There  are  quite  a few  species  that  can  grow 
outside  all  year  long  in  some  areas  of 
Southern  California  and  Florida,  and  even 
more  species  that  can  live  outdoors  in  Hawaii. 
There  are  times  that  the  temperature  can  and 
does  drop  to  a dangerous  level  both  in  Florida 
and  Southern  California.  If  the  temperature 
remains  low  for  more  than  just  a very  short 
time. ..plants  could  be  lost,  then  more  cuttings 
would  be  purchased  from  those  of  us  who 
grow  our  plants  in  nice  warm  green  houses. 

I’ve  heard  that  I should  give  my 
Hoyas  a bath.  Is  this  really 
necessary? 

There  are  many  interpretations  of  what  "a 
bath"  means.  There  are  those  who  have  the 
idea  that  a plant  needs  to  be  lathered  up  with 
soap  suds,  rinsed  and  dried  before  they 
consider  a plant  to  be  clean.  Although  this 
would  certainly  help  to  kill  insects,  wash  away 
insect  eggs  and  remove  the  sticky  honeydew 
that  accumulates  on  the  leaves  from  aphids, 
mealybugs  and  scale. ..it’s  not  the  only  way  to 
bathe  a plant.  A forceful  spray  with  plain 
warm  water  from  a hose  can  be  almost  as 
effective.  If  you  live  in  an  apartment  where 
you  wouldn’t  have  access  to  an  area  suitable 
for  using  a hose,  a bathtub  is  a perfect  place 
for  a bath  or  shower  for  your  plants.  Is  a bath 
really  necessary?. ..your  plants  probably  won’t 


56 


die  without  one,  but  they  are  much  happier  if 
they  can  have  an  occasional  bath. 

I have  an  H.  nicholsoniae  whose 
leaves  have  turned  a dark  brownish 
red.  Could  this  be  from  a phosphorus 
deficiency? 

I doubt  it!  Many  of  the  H.  nicholsoniae  type 
plants  as  well  as  some  other  species  in  the 
Hoya  genus  have  leaves  that  turn  glossy 
brownish  red  or  mahogany  colored  in  bright 
light.  The  color  changes  that  are  caused  by 
nutrient  deficiencies  are  dull,  lifeless  looking 
colors.  They  usually  start  with  the  older 
leaves  and  slowly  progress  through  the  entire 
plant.  The  plant  has  an  overall  stunted 
appearance,  and  looks  very  unwell. 

I have  ten  large  Hoya  plants  that 
have  been  in  8"  baskets  for  over  four 
years.  I have  never  used  fertilizers 
on  them  because  I don’t  want  them  to 
get  any  bigger.  They  don’t  look  very 
healthy  anymore,  and  a friend  says 
they  are  suffering  from  a lack  of 
nutrients.  What  does  that  mean,  and 
what  are  the  symptoms  of  lack  of 
nutrients? 

Your  friend  is  probably  right!  After  four 
years  in  a pot,  most  potting  mixes  would  be 
pretty  well  depleted  of  any  nutrients  that  they 
originally  contained.  The  chemical  element 
that  is  depleted  the  fastest  in  any 
gardening.. .indoors  or  out,  is  nitrogen.  The 
older  leaves  turn  yellow,  or  a very  sick  looking 
pale,  grayish  green,  and  usually  drop  off  in 
huge  numbers.  Any  new  growth  is  pale, 
stunted  and  often  curled  and  distorted.  A 
phosphorus  deficiency  shows  up  first  in  the 
leaf  edges,  tips  and  veins  of  a plant.  These 
areas  turn  dull  red  or  bronze  beginning  with 
the  older  leaves  first.  Any  new  growth  is 
stunted,  or  stopped  entirely.  The  leaves  will 
eventually  turn  a garish  blue  green,  then  dull 
purple  mottled  with  brown  and  yellow.  With  a 
potassium  deficiency  the  leaf  tips  and  edges 
turn  tan,  bronze  or  sometimes  even  dull  red, 
followed  by  crinkled,  burned  leaf  edges.  The 
leaf  blades  will  turn  yellow,  beginning  with  the 
older  leaves.  New  growth  is  stunted  with 
shorter  than  normal  distances  between  the 


leaves.  These  are  the  three  main  chemical 
elements  that  your  plants  need  to  help  them 
manufacture  their  own  food.  When  plants  are 
severely  deficient  in  these  three  components 
it  is  safe  to  assume  that  all  the  other  needed 
chemical  elements  are  deficient  also.  If  you 
have  any  halfway  healthy  looking  growth  still 
on  these  plants,  I would  recommend  that  you 
take  some  cuttings  from  the  healthy  parts  and 
start  some  new  plants.  Then  start  a regular 
feeding  program  for  your  old  plants,  using  a 
balanced  fertilizer  such  as  Peters  20-20-20 
formula,  or  any  other  good  brand  that  has  all 
the  required  trace  elements  included  in  its 
ingredients. 

What  is  meant  by  the  expression 
"sexual  reproduction"  in  plants? 

That  phrase  refers  to  the  reproduction  of 
plants  by  the  same  method  of  reproduction 
that  occurs  in  animal  life... Pollen  from  the 
male  sex  organ  (the  stamen)  is  transferred  to 
the  female  sex  organ  (the  pistil)  so  that 
fertilization  occurs,  leading  to  the  production 
of  seeds  or  spores. 

What  is  meant  by  the  expression 
"asexual  reproduction"  in  plants? 

The  term  asexual  reproduction  refers  to  the 
vegetative  method  of  multiplying  plants  using 
parts  of  the  same  plant,  such  as  by  stem  or 
leaf  cuttings,  or  by  planting  bulblets, 
rhizomes,  or  by  dividing  the  plant  itself. 

The  botanical  names  on  some  of 
these  plants  are  real  tongue  twisters. 
Is  there  a sensible  reason  behind 
some  of  these  names? 

Many  botanical  names  are  descriptive  of  a 
prominent  part  of  a plant.  Sometimes  it’s  the 
foliage  e.g.  Hoya  carnosa,  which  means 
fleshy  or  of  fleshy  consistency.  Other  names 
will  refer  to  a description  of  the  flower  e.g. 
Hoya  pauciflora  (few  flowered),  the  flower 
parts  e.g.  Hoya  pubicalyx  (pubescent  or  fuzzy 
calyx),  or  maybe  even  a flower  color  e.g. 

Hoya  purpureofusca  (reddish  brown  flower). 
These  descriptive  names  are  often  very 
helpful  to  taxonomists  in  identifying  a plant. 
Much  more  so  than  naming  them  after  a 


57 


person  or  place.  The  names  really  aren’t  that 
difficult  if  they  are  broken  into  syllables  and 
pronounced  slowly. 

What  are  the  tiny  little  black  flies 
that  fly  around  potted  plants? 

These  are  probably  fungus  gnats.  They  lay 
eggs  in  the  potting  mix.  The  eggs  hatch  out 
into  tiny,  almost  microscopic  worms  that  feed 
on  the  peat  moss,  and  often  on  the  roots  of 
your  plants.  A pinch  of  systemic  granules 
placed  in  your  pots  every  five  weeks  or  so 
and  watered  in  will  get  rid  of  them. 

What  is  meant  by  a species  being 
published? 

In  order  to  be  a valid,  recognized  species  a 
plant  must  be  described  in  Latin,  and  this 
description  must  be  published,  or  made  public 
to  a wide  or  varied  audience.. .for  instance 
through  recognized  botanical  periodicals  or 
bulletins. 

Do  Hoyas  go  dormant  in  the  winter? 

As  with  most  tropical  plants,  Hoyas  don’t  go 
through  a true  dormancy.  However,  when 
temperatures  drop  accompanied  by  overcast 
skies  and  dark  days  with  very  little  light,  they 
will  slow  down  and  show  no  apparent  activity 
until  conditions  improve.  Plants  that  are 
grown  under  artificial  lights,  and  with  even 
temperatures  continue  to  grow  and  even 
bloom  through  all  seasons. 

Most  of  the  tip  ends  of  the  new 
growth  on  my  Hoyas  dies  off.  What 
causes  this? 

The  three  major  causes  of  stem  tip 
burn.. .and  that’s  what  it  is!...(1)  low 
humidity.. .(2)  overfertilizing... (3)  stems 
touching  a cold  or  hot  surface.  There  are 
other  causes,  but  check  into  these  first. 

Do  Hoyas  need  a temperature  drop 
at  night? 

Some  Hoyas  definitely  need  a temperature 
drop  to  stay  happy,  others  don’t  seem  to  care 


one  way  or  the  other.  It  apparently  has  a lot 
to  do  with  their  native  habitat.  Many  Hoyas 
live  where  the  temperature  seldom  varies 
more  than  a few  degrees  between  day  and 
night.. .summer  or  winter. 

The  potting  mix  on  some  of  my 
Hoyas  has  a thin  layer  of  what  looks 
like  wet  talcum  powder.  Could  this  be 
a fungus  growth? 

It  actually  sounds  more  like  fertilizer  salt 
buildup.  Try  leaching  your  potted  plants  with 
lots  of  clear  water  to  wash  out  the  excess 
fertilizer. 

Where  do  most  Hoyas  come  from 
originally? 

The  largest  number  of  Hoya  species  have 
been  collected  in  that  vast  area  of  the  tropical 
world  known  as  Indonesia.  There  are  also 
numerous  Hoyas  scattered  through  many  of 
the  South  Pacific  Islands  as  well  as  tropical 
and  semi  tropical  areas  of  India,  China  and 
Japan. 

What  are  the  symptoms  of 
overfertilizing? 

The  first  obvious  symptom  is  a build-up  of 
fertilizer  salts  that  rise  to  the  surface  of  your 
potting  mix  in  the  form  of  white,  crusty  looking 
powder.  In  clay  pots  these  salts  are  visible  on 
the  outside  of  the  pot,  and  around  the  inside 
rim  close  to  the  soil  line.  If  this  condition  is 
not  corrected  by  thorough  leaching  (rinsing 
out)  of  the  potting  medium,  or  a complete 
repotting,  the  roots  will  suffer  severe  chemical 
injury.  The  leaves  of  your  plants  will  have 
dry,  rusty,  crinkled  edges  from  chemical 
burns. ..and  the  main  stem  often  swells  and 
splits  open  near  the  soil  line  due  to  chemical 
injury  of  the  plants  plumbing  system.  This 
usually  leads  to  the  death  of  your  plants. 

Where  can  I get  Hoya  seed? 

Hoya  seed  is  not  easy  to  come  by.  As  far 
as  is  known,  none  of  the  Hoya  dealers  have 
seed  available.  Sometimes  there  will  be 
individuals  who  have  a bumper  crop  of  seed 


58 


pods  on  their  plants  after  a summer  outside, 
where  they  can  be  pollinated  by  bees,  flies, 
moths  or  whatever.  Your  best  chance  for 
obtaining  Hoya  seed  would  be  to  get 
acquainted  with  other  Hoya  hobby  growers. 

What  is  the  best  way  to  plant  Hoya 
seed? 

There  are  special  seed  planting  mixes 
available  at  most  garden  centers.  Peat  moss 
that  is  packed  into  nylon  net  and  compressed 
into  thin  pellets  that  swell  to  the  size  of  a 2" 
pot  when  moistened  are  known  in  America  by 
the  brand  name  of  Jiffy  7 pellets,  and  are  also 
excellent  for  planting  seed.  The  immediate 
concern  in  growing  plants  from  seed  is  to 
prevent  the  fungus  that  causes  the  damp-off 
disease  which  attacks  seedlings  at  the  soil 
line.  Mix  a solution  of  a wettable  powdered 
fungicide  and  use  this  mixture  to  dampen 
your  seed  mix  or  to  activate  the  Jiffy  7 pellets. 
It  is  best  to  water  your  seed  flats  slowly  from 
the  bottom  to  prevent  washing  out  the  tiny 
seedling  before  they  are  firmly  rooted. 

Can  I pasteurize  my  potting  soil  by 
placing  it  in  heavy  plastic  bags  and 
leaving  it  in  the  hot  sun  for  several 
days? 

Experimentation  shows  us  that  moist  soil 
tied  securely  in  a plastic  bag  and  placed  in 
the  hot  sun  will  reach  a temperature 
approximately  50  degrees  hotter  than  the 
surrounding  air.  Only  if  you  live  in  an  area 
where  the  air  temperature  is  at  least  135°  F. 
(57°C.)  can  you  be  fairly  certain  that  the 
contents  of  the  plastic  bag  will  reach  the 
185°F.  (85°C)  needed  for  pasteurization.  It  is 
safer  to  use  the  oven! 

What  are  the  tiny  white  worms  that 
are  usually  found  on  leaves  along 
with  aphids? 

Aphids  go  through  a gradual  change  from 
the  nymph  stage  to  the  adult  stage  by 
molting,  or  shedding  their  skins.  As  they 
grow,  the  skin  does  not  grow  with  them,  but 
instead  splits  open  and  the  aphids  simply 
walk  out  of  their  old  skin.  Microscopic 
examination  reveals  that  the  "tiny  worms" 


referred  to  here,  are  actually  the  transparent 
skeletons. ..or  mummies,  that  are  left  behind 
by  the  aphids  as  they  outgrow  them. 

Is  there  a positive  control  for  aphids 
besides  using  poison  sprays? 

For  plants  that  are  especially  susceptible  to 
aphids,  a piece  or  two  cut  from  a dog  flea 
collar  and  laid  on  top  of  the  soil  will  help  to 
repel  aphids,  mealybug  and  scale.  It  is 
obviously  too  expensive  to  use  this  method  if 
more  than  just  a few  plants  are  involved.  It 
has  also  been  discovered  that  any  bright 
yellow  object  will  immediately  attract  the 
attention  of  aphids  and  draw  them  away  from 
your  plants.  Try  smearing  a bright  yellow 
paper  or  a board  painted  yellow  with 
petroleum  jelly.  Place  these  boards  or  papers 
close  to  your  plants,  and  at  plant  level. ..not 
above  them.  The  theory  is  that  the  aphids  will 
be  attracted  to  the  yellow  color  and  will  get 
hopelessly  stuck  in  the  petroleum  jelly. 

What  are  the  symptoms  of 
nematodes? 

Nematodes  are  sneaky,  microscopic  and 
practically  transparent  worms  that  invade  the 
roots  and  stems  of  plants.  Unless  we  have 
potted  many  plants  in  an  unsterilized  potting 
mix  that  already  has  nematodes  present,  the 
infestation  usually  starts  from  a potted  plant 
received  from  other  sources.  Unrooted 
cuttings  seldom  have  nematodes  present 
unless  the  cuttings  were  taken  from  old  wood 
close  to  the  soil  line.  The  guilty  culprit  that  is 
responsible  for  spreading  this  disease  usually 
displays  some  symptoms  that  we  don’t 
recognize  until  it’s  too  late.  The  danger  with 
nematodes  is  that  they  travel  in  water,  and 
invade  other  plants  on  the  same  bench  by 
entering  the  pot  through  holes  in  the  bottom 
or  by  water  that  drips  from  hanging  baskets 
into  pots  below.  The  classic  symptoms  are 
stubby,  gnarled  leafless  stems.. .especially  in 
the  center  of  the  plant  which  displays  galls 
that  resemble  large  warts.  If  examined,  the 
roots  may  also  be  found  to  have  huge  knots. 
The  plants  look  very  sick  but  can  survive  for 
quite  a long  time  in  a very  humid  atmosphere 
such  as  in  a greenhouse.  This  is  possible 
because  even  though  the  roots  are  totally 
disabled,  they  get  just  enough  moisture 


59 


through  any  remaining  leaves  to  keep  them 
barely  alive.  The  remedy  for  nematodes  is  to 
take  cuttings  from  the  very  tip  ends  of  every 
plant  you  own,  and  root  them  far  away  from 
the  contaminated  area.  Then  burn  the 
infested  plants,  pots  and  soil  included.  Scrub 
every  square  inch  of  your  growing  area, 
tables  and  benches  especially,  with  a strong 
chlorine  solution.  If  you  have  a dirt  or  gravel 
floor,  pour  left  over  chlorine  solution  on  the 
floor  and  let  it  soak  in. 

I have  had  a beautiful  H.  carnosa 
variegata  for  seven  years.  This  past 
summer  it  gradually  started  turning 
solid  green.  The  clerk  at  the  garden 
center  told  me  I was  probably  using 
too  much  high  nitrogen  fertilizer.  I 
use  a balanced  18-18-18  formula  and 
always  have.  Could  there  be  another 
reason? 

I doubt  if  your  balanced  fertilizer  had 
much. ..if  anything  to  do  with  your  plant 
reverting  to  solid  green.  What  usually 
happens,  is  that  a variegated  plant  will 
eventually  put  out  a solid  green  branch.. .this 
branch  has  very  dominent  genes  and 
contains  the  original  blueprint,  or  arrangement 
of  cells  that  tells  this  plant  that  "it  will  be 
green".  If  this  branch  is  left  to  grow,  it  will 
take  on  the  role  of  an  over  ambitious 
supervisor  and  demand  that  the  entire  plant 
"will  be  green".  To  counteract  this,  cut  out 
solid  green  branches  as  soon  as  they  appear. 


Sometimes  when  I water  the  plants 
in  my  greenhouse,  centipedes  will 
come  scurrying  out  of  the  pots.  Do 
they  damage  plant  roots? 

Centipedes  are  insect  predators,  and  feed 
on  beatles,  grubs,  slugs  and  snails  that 
normally  invade  garden  plants.  Since 
centipedes  don’t  usually  hang  around  inside 
greenhouses  and  especially  not  down  inside 
pots.. .I’m  wondering  if  the  bugs  you  are 
seeing  might  not  be  symphilids  or  millipedes. 
These  usually  feed  on  decaying  matter  such 
as  fir  bark  and  peat  moss,  but  are  not  above 
eating  large  chunks  out  of  plant  leaves. 

What  is  meant  by  "air  layering"  a 
plant? 

To  air  layer  a plant  is  a method  of  forming 
roots  on  a part  of  a plant  while  it  is  still 
attached  to  the  mother  plant.  A wide  notch  is 
cut  into  the  plant  just  beneath  a leaf  node, 
then  a mass  of  wet  peat  moss  is  packed  into 
and  around  the  cut.  A piece  of  plastic  is 
securely  tied  over  this  dressing  to  keep  the 
moss  in  place  and  to  help  to  retain  moisture. 
This  method  normally  results  in  roots  being 
formed  on  even  the  hardest  to  root  plants 
within  four  to  six  weeks.  As  soon  as  a good 
root  system  is  established,  the  new  rooted 
cutting  can  be  severed  from  the  mother  plant 
and  potted  up  the  same  way  as  any  other 
cutting. 


60 


C hapter  9 


Hoya  Hall  of  Fame 


The  following  pages  of  this  text  are  devoted  to  brief  descriptions  and  a few  words 
on  care  & culture  of  the  various  Hoyas  whose  pictures  were  selected  for  a place 
in  our  “Hall  of  Fame",  and  consist  of  30  species  that  are  generally  favored  for  their 
availability,  adaptability,  easy  growing  habit,  spectacular  appearance. ..or  in  several 
cases,  because  they  are  exquisite  miniatures  and  perfect  for  the  indoor  light  garden. 


Since  rare  Hoya  species  are  a fairly  recent  addition  to  the  world  of  cultivation,  a 
large  percentage  of  the  Hoyas  in  our  possession  remain  unidentified,  or  have  been 
mistakenly  identified.  The  names,  or  numbers  accompanying  the  photos  in  this 
publication  are  those  that  appeared  on  the  labels  at  the  time  of  purchase,  and  are 
by  no  means  the  final  word  on  identification  for  these  plants.  In  the  past  few  years, 
several  research  groups  have  been  able  to  properly  identify  many  of  the  Hoyas  on 
these  pages.  In  order  to  lessen  the  confusion  of  placing  unfamiliar  species  names 
on  these  photos,  we  have  chosen  in  most  cases,  to  retain  the  more  familiar  number 
system.  However,  due  to  the  fact  that  all  plant  growers  have  their  own  method  for 
inventorying  plants  by  number,  you  may  have  obtained  many  of  these  plants  under 
a different  name  or  number. 

There  is  a fast  growing,  non-profit  organization  based  in  the  United  States  but  with 
international  status,  whose  members  are  dedicated  to  the  study  and  promotion  of 
these  rare  and  beautiful  exotics.  An  invitation  is  being  extended  by  the  President 
of  the  organization,  as  well  as  members  of  the  Board  of  Directors  and  all  members 
in  general,  to  those  of  you  who  grow  Hoyas  now,  and  anyone  who  is  seriously 
considering  growing  one  or  more  of  these  Hoya  species  and  would  like  more 
information  on  plant  sources,  plant  identification  or  culture  to  contact:  The 
International  Hoya  Association,  P.O.  Box  5130,  Central  Point,  Oregon  97502. 


61 


Hoya  acuta  Haworth 
(Pictures  #9,  21  & 65) 

As  you  will  note  the  name  above  is  made  up  of  two  parts  (binomial)  followed  by 
the  authors  name.  The  author  is  the  person  who  originally  wrote  up  the  species 
and  described  it  in  Latin.  "Hoya"  is  the  genus  name  that  represents  the  whole  group 
of  similar  plants  in  the  milkweed  family,  "acuta"  is  the  specific  name,  the  name  of  a 
species  in  the  Hoya  genus.  I mention  this  now  with  a description  of  this  first  plant  to 
try  and  alleviate  confusion  at  this  point  as  to  why  the  plants  are  named  as  they 
appear. 

This  species  is  fairly  widely  distributed  and  relatively  easy  to  collect  in  its  native 
habitats.  The  plant  is  a vigorous  grower  and  well  adapted  for  our  purposes.  It 
readily  grows  to  become  a medium  sized  plant.  Because  of  its  wide  adaptability  in 
nature  it  adapts  readily  to  cultivation.  It  is  easy  to  grow  and  blooms  readily  and 
often.  To  top  it  all  off  it  is  highly  fragrant,  with  scents  of  peppermint,  spearmint  and 
lemon. 

Plants  of  this  species  have  been  around  for  a long  time.  It  has  been  reported  as 
growing  at  the  gardens  in  Kew,  England  in  1918,  having  been  sent  there  from 
Calcutta,  India  by  Doctor  Wallich  under  the  name  of  Hoya  parasitica.  He  stated  it 
was  from  the  delta  of  the  Ganges  River.  The  foliage  on  this  species  is  very  desirable, 
being  a very  attractive  medium  glossy  green  above,  a little  lighter  on  the  underside. 
Although  the  internodes  are  rather  long,  the  broad  lance  shaped  leaves  give 
adequate  cover.  There  is  a wide  range  of  flower  colors  among  the  various  clones 
available  and  also  some  differences  in  the  leaf  sizes.  One  attractive  clone  (picture 
#9)  has  a lime  green  flower  color  and  comes  from  the  island  of  Penang  off  the  north 
west  coast  of  Malaysia.  It  is  easy  to  spot  this  species  from  the  roadways  climbing 
and  twining  around  the  trunks  and  along  outstretched  branches  on  trees  bordering 
the  mountain  roads.  Picture  #65  is  of  the  clone  with  bronze  pink  tones  to  the  flowers 
especially  pronounced  when  they  open  in  cool  spring  conditions. 

The  flowers  are  in  the  form  of  globose  (round)  clusters,  always  waxy  and  with  the 
petals  reflexed.  This  hoya  is  easy  to  start  from  cuttings,  grows  rapidly  and  flowers 
at  an  early  stage.  If  you  missed  seeing  the  development  of  a cluster  you  will  know 
it  is  in  bloom  from  the  pleasant  fragrance  emitted. 


62 


Hoya  arnottiana  Wight 


(Picture  #3) 

Here  we  have  an  Indian  Hoya  species  from  the  warmer  tropical  regions  of  the 
Himalayan  mountains.  In  these  areas  it  is  found  growing  at  an  elevation  of  from 
1000’  to  3000’  (305  to  915  m)  altitude.  It  is  a strong,  vigorous  climber,  ascending 
high  into  the  towering  branches  of  supporting  trees,  and  reaching  for  additional 
sunlight.  Here  in  its  lofty  perch,  it  is  also  swept  by  the  moisture  laden,  cooling, 
monsoon  breezes.  It  has  bold,  wide  ovate  elliptic,  medium  to  light  green  leaves  with 
a soft,  smooth,  hairless  surfaces.  The  veins  however  can  readily  be  seen. 

The  globose  clusters  of  flowers  are  creamy  yellow,  sometimes  white.  The  finely 
pubescent  inner  surface  of  the  petals  are  reflexed,  and  the  pure  white  central  crown 
stands  out  prominently.  It  gives  off  a soft  pleasant  fragrance,  is  relatively  easy  to 
bloom  and  in  combination  with  its  bold  handsome  foliage,  is  worthy  of  a place  in 
most  collections. 


63 


Hoya  australis  R.  Brown 


(Pictures  #1,  52,  85) 

Here  is  an  Australian  Hoya  that  has  many  leaf  forms  and  habitats.  It  is  adapted 
to  a very  wide  range  of  environmental  conditions,  yet  all  the  different  types, 
varieties  and  subspecies  have  similar  flowers.  Because  of  its  highly  variable 
characteristics  it  has  given  the  plant  taxonomists  (Botanists  who  specialize  in  the 
classification  of  plants)  a lot  to  discuss  and  argue  over.  You  can  surely  find  this 
species  listed  by  many  nurseries  that  specialize  in  Hoyas.  You  will  also  find 
nurseries  that  carry  numerous  variations  of  this  species.  Among  the  many  forms  to 
choose  from,  you  can  select  large,  hairless,  shiny  leafed  types;  also  fuzzy  leafed, 
broad  leafed,  and  very  thick,  small  leaved  types.  Some  foliage  grows  fairly  flat, 
while  others  are  cupped  or  their  tips  turn  down.  You  can  grow  types  with  deep  green 
foliage  and  ones  with  very  light  green  colors.  This  whole  book  could  be  occupied 
with  the  many  distinct  types,  varieties,  and  subspecies  that  can  be  found  within  the 
Hoya  australis  complex. 

The  flowers  are  always  white,  with  the  majority  having  varying  amounts  of  a 
carmine  pink  stain  under  the  central  crown.  For  the  most  part  the  flowers  lay  out 
flat  or  are  slightly  cupped. 

This  species  is  among  the  easiest  to  grow  and  to  flower.  They  tend  to  bloom  in 
the  fall  in  the  northern  hemisphere  in  September  and  November,  as  it  is  then 
becoming  spring  in  Australia.  We  have  many  variations  to  choose  from,  thanks  to 
the  extensive  collecting  work  done  by  the  Australian  collectors.  In  a crowded 
greenhouse  you  will  know  this  plant  is  blooming  by  the  scent  that  will  greet  you  when 
you  open  the  door  in  the  morning. 

H.  australis  is  not  as  cold  hardy  as  the  carnosa  types  nor  will  it  accept  as  much 
watering  and  humidity  as  most  of  the  Philippine  species.  It  is,  however,  not  a fussy 
grower  and  I’m  sure  you  will  be  pleased  with  this  species. 


64 


Hoya  bilobata  Schlechter 


(Picture  #57) 

At  the  time  this  species  was  found  and  described  it  was  the  smallest  Hoya  flower 
yet  known  from  the  Philippines.  It  was  described  by  Dr.  Rudolph  Schlechter,  a 
German  economic  botanist  working  in  German  New  Guinea  in  1906.  Many  Hoya 
specimens  were  sent  to  him  from  the  Philippines  for  study  and  classification.  The 
plant  was  collected  at  Davao  on  the  large  Island  of  Mindanao.  There  are  a number 
of  small  leaved,  small  flowered  Hoyas  from  the  Philippines  that  belong  to  the  same 
section,  Acanthostemma.  This  section  among  other  things  is  distinguished  by  the 
two  extensions  (lobes)  that  protrude  from  the  sides  of  each  of  the  five  scales  that 
make  up  the  center  of  a Hoya  flower.  The  plant  shown  here  is  believed  to  be  this 
same  small  species,  although  plant  taxonomists  are  still  studying  this  rather  difficult 
section  of  a most  difficult  genus,  the  Hoya. 

Our  plant  with  time  makes  a dense,  multi  branched,  fine  stemmed  plant.  Its 
diminutive  oval  to  round  leaves  are  covered  with  small  soft  hairs  (puberulous)  and 
are  a rather  dull  green  with  light  green  on  the  cupped  underside.  This  species  would 
have  to  be  included  among  the  miniatures.  It  will  climb,  but  most  often  the  foliage 
dangles  down  in  long  streamers,  and  covers  the  container  completely.  The  flower 
clusters  are  tiny,  the  entire  umbels  being  only  about  1/2  inch  across.  It  is  an  easy 
plant  to  grow  and  a frequent  summer  bloomer,  with  a mild  honey  fragrance.  As 
shown  the  rose  colored  petals  roll  back  in  small  fuzzy  balls  with  a yellow  central 
crown  and  conspicuous,  deeper  red  markings. 

This  wee  plant  would  probably  be  at  home  in  a rather  small  pot  with  good  drainage. 
It  would  also  do  well  on  a log  or  slab  wrapped  with  moss  and  watered  daily.  Since 
this  plant  is  a fairly  rapid  grower  you  can  take  some  cuttings  later  on  and  experiment 
with  growing  them  in  different  situations  and  conditions. 


65 


Hoya  c a m p h o rifo  lia  Warburg 


(Picture  #44) 


This  graceful,  pale  green  foliaged  plant  is  a native  of  the  Philippine  Islands.  It 
has  small  stems  that  form  dangling  and  vining  clumps  from  branches  and  limbs 
in  the  tropic  forests  in  this  Island  nation.  The  Type  species  was  found  by  Dr. 
Warburg  in  Central  Luzon,  the  largest  island  in  the  Philippines.  It  grows  at  a rather 
high  altitude  of  1000’(305  m).  This  is  not  high  by  some  standards  but  relatively  high 
for  this  area.  The  foliage  is  about  the  same  color  on  both  sides,  rather  rigid  with 
acute  tips  that  bend  downward.  The  veins  are  very  noticeable.  The  petiole  that 
holds  the  leaf  and  often  the  new  stems  are  a purple  shade  and  adds  to  the 
attractiveness  of  this  plant.  It  has  a rather  delicate  appearance,  a clean  attractive 
look. 

When  well  grown  it  flowers  often,  the  tiny  flowers  open  in  the  morning  then  close 
toward  evening.  The  next  day  they  may  open  again,  but  are  not  long  lasting.  Since 
they  take  little  nutrient  from  the  plant  they  seem  to  bloom  more  often.  They  are  a 
pleasing  rose  color  with  red  centers,  very  small  and  beautiful.  Like  most  Philippine 
Hoyas  they  will  take  a lot  of  water  providing  your  mixture  is  loose  and  has  good 
drainage.  This  species  makes  a good  small  to  medium  sized  plant.  It  is  ideal  for  a 
6"  (152.4  mm)  pot  or  basket,  where  the  growth  habit  is  a pleasing  contrast  to  the 
larger  and  more  vigorous  Hoyas.  It  is  ideal  for  window  sill  growers  and  for  light 
gardens.  This  species  is  not  at  all  what  I would  call  succulent  nor  is  it  thin,  but  rather 
somewhat  hard  textured.  An  easy  plant  to  grow  and  flower. 


H . h a I o p h y I a 


66 


Hoya  cinnam  o m ifo  lia  Hooker 


(Picture  #37) 


A spectacular  species  from  the  Island  of  Java.  Its  large,  olive  green  leaves, 
palmately  veined  in  silver  are  very  impressive.  The  new  growth  exhibits  bronze 
tones  and  adds  to  the  interest  of  this  plant  species.  Mr.  Thomas  Lobb  sent  this 
species  to  England  from  Java  in  1847  where  it  was  greatly  admired.  The  plant  itself 
is  very  attractive,  but  its  blooms  are  sensational! 

What  could  be  more  beautiful  than  the  lime  green  petals,  of  these  rather  large  sized 
flowers,  and  set  off  with  a huge  center  crown  of  deep  cranberry  red?  The  globose 
clusters  consist  of  25  to  30  flowers  each,  adding  to  the  thrill  when  the  plant  comes 
into  full  bloom.  The  plant  is  a moderately  vigorous  grower,  but  fairly  easy  to  keep 
under  control.  In  high  humidity  the  stems  will  put  out  short  rootlets  along  its  length 
and  especially  near  the  nodes,  where  the  leaves  are  attached.  This  plant  can  be 
classified  as  a medium  bloomer.  It  blooms  for  me  in  Fresno,  California  each  year 
about  July.  In  England  they  report  blooming  in  July  and  August.  Some  growers  in 
America  report  heavy  blooming  in  July  and  August  with  a few  blooms  off  and  on  the 
rest  of  the  year. 

Treat  the  plant  like  you  would  Hoya  australis.  Give  it  a well  drained  potting  mixture. 
Keep  it  damp  but  above  all  do  not  water  so  often  that  the  mixture  becomes  sour  or 
waterlogged,  or  you  will  lose  the  plant. 

While  on  the  subject  of  watering,  the  idea  is  to  water  heavily,  then  let  the  potting 
soil  dry  somewhat  before  watering  again.  Don’t  dabble  around. ..Water  & Wait!  Also 
known  as  the  drown  and  dry  method. 


67 


Hoya  cumingiana  Decaisne 


(Picture  #38) 

In  spite  of  forest  destruction  and  habitat  reduction,  this  is  one  species  that  I feel 
will  survive.  The  plant  pictured  here  came  to  me  from  Professor  Juan  V.  Pancho, 
who  collected  it  in  1981  from  Northern  Luzon  in  the  Philippines.  It  was  taken  from 
a road  cut  through  a limestone  area,  attesting  to  the  fact  that  this  species  does  not 
need  a primary  forest  to  survive  and  propagate.  It  readily  sets  seed  pods  and  has 
a high  percent  of  viable  seed  which  grow  vigorously.  In  this  respect  it  is  somewhat 
unusual  among  Hoya  species.  This  is  not  to  say  that  there  are  not  other  Hoya 
species  that  produce  pods,  but  most  are  not  as  prolific  in  this  respect  as  Hoya 
cumingiana  is.  Its  ability  to  reseed  itself  even  in  disturbed  areas  seems  to  assure 
its  permanence  as  a species. 

This  species  is  not  a vine  as  most  Hoyas  are,  but  rather  has  a bushy  type  growth. 
As  its  branches  become  long  they  bow  over  and  become  pendant  unless  it  finds 
support  from  a nearby  plant  or  other  surface.  As  pictured  this  plant  has  a lot  of 
closely  formed  leaves,  close  also  to  the  stem.  The  flower  cluster  hangs  down  from 
the  arching  stems  and  are  very  waxy  and  showy  with  their  contrasting  colors.  Since 
this  species  like  many  others  prefers  coral  and  other  limestone  areas,  it  is  advisable 
to  include  a source  of  calcium  in  the  potting  mix.  Some  crushed  coral,  broken  up 
limestone,  even  gypsum  board  from  construction  can  act  as  a calcium  source. 


68 


Hoya  erythrina  Rintz 


(Picture  #51) 

Why  this  beautiful  Hoya  escaped  notice  in  the  hill  forests  of  Malaya  until  Dr.  R.L. 

Rintz  described  it  in  1978  is  a real  mystery.  It  is  so  outstandingly  unusual  and 
attractive  it  should  not  have  been  easily  overlooked.  It  must  be  that  it  is  fairly  rare 
in  nature  in  the  forests  of  Pahang  and  Selangor  (areas  similar  to  U.S.  counties, 
geographical  divisions)  where  it  is  found  at  1300-3000’  (400-700  m)  in  altitude.  It 
is  said  to  be  common  but  not  abundant  along  rivers  in  the  areas. 

This  plant  is  very  slow  to  start  growth  but  with  time  it  will  become  established  and 
then  put  on  rapid  growth.  It  loves  to  twine  and  climb...  often  with  long,  at  first,  leafless 
stems.  As  leaves  develop  they  are  usually  deep  shades  of  green  and  bronze, 
maturing  into  rather  rigid,  undulant  (wavy)  leaves  of  iridescent  lime  green  with 
deeper  green  venation.  The  underside  of  these  leaves  is  a rich  dull  maroon  to  pink. 
The  foliage  is  very  distinctive  and  beautiful,  often  splotched  or  marked  on  the  surface 
with  pink  and  silver  markings.  You  will  want  to  grow  this  one  for  the  foliage  alone! 

The  pendant  flower  clusters  are  formed  of  convex  umbels  of  buttery  yellow  flowers 
fuzzy  on  the  part  of  the  upper  curved  surface.  This  is  set  off  with  a slightly  lighter 
pagoda  shaped  center.  There  is  a warm  undertone  to  the  yellowish  petals.  The  tip 
and  edges  of  the  petals  are  turned  under  giving  a squared  off  shape  to  the  flowers. 

This  is  a plant  that  most  collectors  will  find  very  attractive,  unique  and  desirable. 
It  might  be  that  it  will  like  more  light  than  most  Hoyas  and  probably  good  humidity, 
since  it  grows  along  streams  in  nature. 


69 


Hoya  finlaysonii  Wight 


(Picture  #75) 

Each  Hoya  seems  to  have  some  distinctive  and  outstanding  characteristic.  This 
Hoya  species  will  attract  you  by  its  spectacular  foliage  alone.  At  once  you  can 
pick  this  one  out  from  all  the  rest.  The  leaves  are  thick  and  rigid,  elliptic  with 
narrowing  bases.  Most  of  all  it  is  recognized  by  the  contrast  between  the  light  green 
leaves  with  prominent  deep  emerald  green  venation  and  the  deep  green  edge  to 
each  leaf. 

In  its  native  environment  it  is  not  a common  plant.  It  comes  from  Malaya,  South 
Thailand  and  Borneo.  The  leaves  are  medium  sized,  but  can  be  much  larger, 
especially  when  it  reaches  maturity.  I have  found  that  it  roots  slowly  and  takes  some 
time  before  it  establishes  itself  and  really  begins  to  grow  rapidly.  It  may  be  my 
conditions,  however  I feel  it  is  one  that  is  worth  waiting  for,  and  once  established 
displays  strong  growth. 

Because  of  the  long  internodes  (space  between  leaf  pairs)  it  will  help  to  wrap  the 
plant  around  itself  to  give  a more  compact  appearance.  In  hanging  baskets  let  some 
stems  twine  around  the  hanger  and  then  go  on  to  droop  back  downward.  The  flower 
clusters  are  compact  balls  of  reflexed  waxy  flowers.  The  centers  are  creamy  white 
with  some  yellow  tones  and  contrast  well  with  the  bronze-maroon  reflexed  petal 
lobes.  This  plant  is  a conversation  piece  with  a lovely  fragrance,  and  another 
species  you  will  surely  want  in  your  collection. 


70 


Hoya  fraterna  Blume 


(Picture  #115) 


The  plant  we  presently  call  fraterna  is  very  distinctive,  having  one  of  the  longest 
leaves  in  the  Hoya  genus.  Not  only  is  the  foliage  large,  it  is  also  thick  and  very 
rigid,  with  almost  no  venation  to  be  seen.  It  is  a strong  grower  and  not  a plant  for 
limited  areas.  Leaves  as  long  as  a foot  or  more  are  not  uncommon.  The  reflexed, 
fuzzy  flowers  (described  as  being  between  siiky  and  velvety)  are  typical  of  species 
of  this  group,  which  includes  among  others  Hoya  kerrii,  Hoya  obovata,  Hoya, 
meliflua,  and  Hoya  diversifolia.  All  of  this  group  have  a compact  central  crown  in 
which  the  outer  lobes  are  rounded  off.  In  addition,  all  these  species  are  strong 
vigorous  plants  with  thick,  bold,  fleshy  leaves.  This  species,  like  the  others 
mentioned  above  are  easy  to  grow,  and  rapidly  become  extremely  large  plants.  The 
flowers  all  exude  a very  thick  nectar,  or  honey-dew  as  they  age,  which  often 
stains  the  petals.  This  staining  is  visible  in  the  colored  photograph.  As  a word  of 
caution,  it  is  advisable  that  you  not  hang  flowering  plants  above  valuables  where 
the  honey-dew  may  drip  on  them. 

Hoya  fraterna  is  a native  of  the  Java  forests,  and  is  reported  to  be  difficult  to  bring 
into  flower.  Its  rank  growth,  long  internodes  and  infrequent  flowering  preclude  its 
inclusion  in  many  collections.  If  you  have  the  room  and  would  like  to  include  a 
species  with  the  longest  leaves,  this  will  be  a must  for  you.  The  flowers  are  very 
similar  to  H.  obovata  but  are  even  larger. 


71 


Hoya  Fungii  Merrill 


(Picture  #67) 

The  soft  appearance  of  the  foliage  on  this  plant,  along  with  the  dark  green  veins, 
will  immediately  attract  you  to  this  plant.  The  leaves  are  large,  and  covered  with 
soft  hairs  (pubescence).  The  new  leaves  are  bronze  green  in  color,  maturing  to  an 
unusual  shade  of  deep  emerald  green,  and  set  off  with  very  dark  green  venation. 
The  stems,  especially  on  new  growth  are  a lovely  bronze  purple.  These  shaded 
maroon  tints  are  a pleasant  addition  to  an  already  beautiful  plant. 

This  is  a moderately  cold  tolerant  plant  that  comes  to  us  originally  from  the  island 
of  Hainan,  off  the  south  coast  of  China.  The  island  forms  the  western  side  of  the 
gulf  of  Tonkin,  opposite  Hanoi,  Vietnam.  If  necessary,  this  species,  along  with  the 
Hoya  carnosa  types  can  survive  the  cold  months  with  less  heat  than  most  Hoyas. 
Although  it  has  been  known  to  survive  temperatures  lower  than  50  degrees 
fahrenheit,  it  will  be  much  happier  if  kept  at.. .or  above  the  fifty  degree  temperature 
range. 

In  addition  to  the  beautiful  foliage,  another  outstanding  feature  of  this  plant  is  its 
globular  clusters  of  up  to  60  flowers  per  umbel.  The  individual  flowers  are  very 
similar  in  appearance  to  Hoya  carnosa,  but  are  usually  slightly  larger,  and  have  a 
bit  more  fuzz  on  the  petals.  The  color  of  the  blooms  will  vary  from  pure  white,  to 
pale  pink,  sometimes  a darker  rose/pink,  depending  on  temperature  and  other 
environmental  factors. 

This  plant  is  a medium  strong  grower,  so  plan  on  it  occupying  considerable  space 
as  it  matures.  Curl  the  long  stems  around  the  pot  and  hanger  to  keep  it  confined 
and  to  give  a more  compact  form. 

This  is  an  especially  easy  plant  to  grow  and  bring  into  bloom.  If  you  are  familiar 
with  growing  Hoya  carnosa,  then  this  one  should  be  a natural  for  you.  Among  its 
many  virtues,  is  also  a lovely  fragrance  which  is  likely  to  win  your  heart. 


72 


Hoya  inconspicua  Hemsley 


(Picture  #45) 

Here  is  a dainty  little  climber  from  the  coastal  areas  of  the  Solomon  Islands.  It 
lives  close  to  the  sea  shore  in  the  lowland  canyons  along  streams  and  trails  at 
the  edge  of  the  jungle.  The  plant  pictured  was  grown  from  a cutting  collected  in 
1988,  from  a plant  climbing  a small  tree  along  a meandering  stream  in  filtered  light 
on  Guadalcanal  Island  (a  famous  battleground  of  World  War  II).  It  was  in  bloom  at 
the  time,  and  each  flower  was  covered  with  tiny,  buff  colored  butterflies,  heads 
pointed  inward  to  the  center  and  their  flat  wings  covering  the  entire  flower.  When  I 
saw  it  I thought  the  flower  was  buff  colored.  As  I reached  to  touch  the  flowers... to 
my  surprise  they  took  flight,  revealing  the  rose  colored  flowers  beneath.  The  insects 
were  evidently  collecting  the  sweet  nectar  from  the  flowers,  which  tastes  somewhat 
like  refined  honey.  This  is  one  of  the  many  delightful  surprises  one  experiences  in 
collecting  plants  in  their  native  habitat. 

This  elegant  vine  is  very  lacy  in  its  growth  habit,  with  attractive,  frosted,  lance 
shaped  leaves.  Since  foliage  varies  in  this  species  it  is  not  uncommon  to  find 
different  types  of  leaves. ..sometimes  on  the  same  plant.  In  general  the  foliage  is 
as  described  above,  but  can  change  dramatically  depending  on  the  growing 
conditions.  Severe  pruning  of  this  plant  will  also  alter  its  appearance,  and  force  a 
very  compact  clump  of  leaves  to  form  in  contrast  to  the  gracefully  cascading  plant 
from  which  the  original  cutting  was  taken.  It  will  still  develop  nice  long  runners  of 
beautiful  new  growth  reminiscent  of  its  origin.  In  the  Islands,  this  plant  roots  in 
limestone  crevices  filled  with  decomposing  debris.  Like  Hoya  cumingiana,  it  will 
probably  benefit  from  the  addition  of  limestone  in  the  potting  mix. 

Hoya  inconspicua  is  one  of  the  easiest  Hoyas  to  cultivate,  an  excellent  bloomer 
which  opens  all  of  its  exquisite  rose/red  flowers  at  one  time. ..often  with  a loud,  snap, 
crackle  and  pop.  The  foliage  is  attractive  and  will  benefit  from  an  occasional 
washing,  simulating  the  afternoon  rains  of  the  rainy  season  on  Guadalcanal.  It  is 
happy  with  many  varied  conditions  from  little  light  to  full  light,  from  somewhat  dry  to 
very  wet  conditions.  Keep  the  potting  mix  loose  and  well  drained,  and  you  should 
have  no  trouble  growing  and  flowering  this  desirable  species. 


73 


H o y a kerrii  C raib 


(Picture  #7) 

The  "sweetheart"  or  "Valentine"  Hoya  is  a very  old  standby.  It  is  widely  distributed 
in  the  nursery  trade,  so  should  be  easy  to  acquire.  There  are  several  forms  of 
this  species  available.  The  original  plant  came  to  us  from  Thailand  and  grew  in  the 
jungles  of  Doi  Sootep,  an  area  near  Chiang  Mai  at  390  meters  altitude.  It  is  also 
found  throughout  the  Indo  China  area.  The  very  thick,  succulent  leaves  are  heart 
shaped  giving  rise  to  its  common  name.  The  leaves  on  most  clones  are  so  fleshy 
that  no  veins  are  visible.  There  is  however,  one  variation  that  has  very  distinct  veins. 
Another  variation  has  a decidedly  suede-like  or  velvet  feel  to  the  touch.  Recently 
a beautiful  variegated  form  was  collected  in  Thailand.  It  is  obvious  that  this  species 
is  a variable  one. 

Flowers  also  vary  in  size  and  color  among  the  various  clones.  With  intense 
collecting,  other  variations  will  no  doubt  show  up,  and  the  taxonomic  and  collector 
interest  in  this  species  will  increase. 

The  leaves  are  opposite,  as  are  the  majority  of  Hoya  species,  and  typically,  from 
2-6"  (5-15  cm)  long  and  nearly  as  wide  at  their  widest.  The  "hairy"  form  seems  to 
have  the  largest  leaves.  The  plant  is  an  extremely  vigorous  climber  and  needs  lots 
of  room  to  grow.  It  roots  readily  at  the  nodes  and  along  the  stems  in  moist  conditions, 
making  it  an  adaptable  climber  in  its  native  habitats.  It  is  possibly  the  most  vigorous 
grower  of  all  the  Hoyas.  It  is  equipped  with  an  extensive,  and  very  fibrous  root 
system,  which  can  easily  outgrow  its  container  within  a short  time. 

This  species  is  a very  consistent  and  reliable  bloomer.  It  has  globular  clusters  of 
15-25  fuzzy,  reflexed  flowers.  The  petals  recurve  almost  from  the  moment  they 
open.  In  general  the  fuzzy  petals  are  white  with  an  underlying  tint  of  lime  green. 
As  the  flowers  age,  the  color  will  change  to  pink,  then  to  dark,  pinkish  brown  due  to 
staining  by  the  brown  honeydew  that  is  secreted  from  the  deep  brown-maroon 
corona,  or  central  crown.  The  outer  ends  of  these  coronal  lobes  are  rounded  off 
and  the  centers  are  cupped.  Undoubtedly,  you  will  have  to  tend  this  plant  to  keep 
it  in  bounds.  Try  a tomato  cage  or  a wood  trellis. 


74 


Hoya  lacunosa  Blume 


(Picture  #2) 


This  is  an  old  and  basic  favorite  in  the  Hoya  world,  and  is  usually  available  in 
most  plant  nurseries.  A rather  compact  plant  that  may  easily  fit  in  the  miniature 
classification.  It  will  climb.. .but  is  also  a good  hanging  basket  plant,  making  many 
long  streamers.  The  small,  deep  green  leaves  are  lacunose  (cupped  or  sunken 
between  the  veins),  to  give  an  uneven  appearance  to  the  leaf  surface  that  is 
otherwise  held  flat. 

An  outstanding  feature  of  this  plant,  is  its  superb,  soft,  clean  scent... somewhat  like 
hand  lotion.  This  is  a plant  that  is  well  adapted  to  light  culture,  and  fits  readily  into 
even  the  smallest  home.  It  blooms  with  rather  flat  clusters  of  from  15-20  flowers. 
Each  flower  is  like  a tiny  ball  of  white  fuzz  with  a yellow  center.  When  the  flowers 
initially  open  the  petals  do  not  at  first  fold  back.  One  might  think  they  have  found  a 
mutant  branch  of  flowers.  Watch  the  cluster  for  a day  or  two  and  as  the  cluster 
matures  the  flowers  will  take  on  their  normal  appearance.  This  is  an  easy  plant  to 
establish  and  grow,  has  clean  attractive  foliage,  and  flowers  readily  and  often.  What 
more  could  you  ask? 

Hoya  species  are  divided  into  sections  for  classification  purposes.  Hoya  lacunosa 
is  the  type  species  for  the  Otostemma  section.  If  you  read  the  old  botanical  literature 
you  may  find  this  plant  named  Otostemma  lacunosum  Blume. 


75 


H oya  limoniaca  S.  Moore 


(Picture  #55) 

Here  is  a graceful,  clean  looking  plant  with  beautiful  starry  fiower  clusters 
standing  out  to  greet  you.  I feel  there  is  some  doubt  that  the  plant  we  are 
depicting  is  correctly  identified.  In  any  case. ..this  plant  is  handsome,  graceful,  and 
has  good  form.  Mature  plants  have  lots  of  close  set  leaves,  with  many  long  dangling 
runners.  The  foliage  is  medium  sized,  smooth,  dark,  glossy  green,  and  has  a lovely 
vein  pattern. 

The  species  comes  from  a small  island  called  the  Isle  of  Pines,  off  the  southern  tip 
of  the  long  island  of  New  Caledonia.  In  World  War  II  we  used  this  island  with  its 
beautiful  white  coral  sandy  beaches  and  star  pine  woods  as  a recreation 
area. ..I  wish  I had  known  about  hoyas  back  then!  The  literature  says  the  flower  is 
pale  yellow  and  slightly  scented.  The  plant  in  our  possession  with  this  name,  can 
certainly  pass  that  test.  However,  the  description  of  the  leaves  as  having  apexes 
that  are  obtuse  (rounded)  is  bothersome. ..our  plant  has  very  definitely  sharp 
pointed  leaf  tips. 

Whatever  this  plant  is,  it  is  a winner.  Neat,  clean  foliage,  and  a good  bloomer. 
Even  without  a name  at  all. ..I  would  keep  this  one. 


76 


Hoya  m acgillivray  i F.M.  Bailey 


(Picture  #87) 

Here  is  a magnificent  Australian  species.  Our  original  clone  came  to  us  from 
the  late  Peter  Tsang,  an  avid  plantsman  of  Brisbane  Australia.  This 
species  was  at  first  thought  to  be  a tetraploid  (a  plant  with  a double  set  of 
chromosomes)  because  of  the  flower  size.  It  was  compared  to  a slightly  smaller 
species  now  thought  to  be  Hoya  megalaster  also  found  in  northern  Queensland, 
Australia,  but  also  native  to  the  neighboring  New  Guinea. 

Our  species  has  been  sold  as  Hoya  superba;  Big  Mac;  Big  Big  Mac,  and  I suppose 
other  names  as  well.  The  blooms  can  be  red  or  varying  shades  of  purple,  and  are 
often  more  than  3“  (76  mm)  in  diameter,  somewhat  flat  and  webbed  far  out  on  the 
petals,  reminiscent  of  a ducks’  foot.  The  flower  clusters  consist  of 
3-7  pendant  flowers  on  long  slender  pedicels.  They  appear  almost  as  Christmas 
ornaments  hanging  from  fine  threads.  Even  the  fine  stems  do  not  look  like  they  are 
meant  to  support  the  rather  large  glossy  waxy  leaves. ^ 

As  the  photo  shows  the  flowers  are  crisp  and  waxy  also  and  have  very  distinctive 
and  attractive  centers.  The  leaves  are  4"  (10  cm)  long  and  2 11  (5  cm)  wide.  In 
cultivation  they  are  often  larger.  New  growth  is  a beautiful  bronze  color, 
waxy  and  extremely  attractive.  Leaves  have  a heart  shaped  base  with  a long  arrow 
shaped  blade  and  acute  points. 

If  left  to  grow  without  training  it  likes  to  run  rampant  and  send  out  long  runners. ..at 
first  leafless.  It  needs  to  be  cut  back,  or  wrapped  back  on  itself  to  make  a more 
attractive  and  compact  plant. 

Hoya  macgillivrayi  is  easier  to  grow  than  it  is  to  say.  It  is  also  not  difficult  to  bring 
into  bloom.  Do  not  let  this  Hoya  get  completely  dry  between  waterings,  and  keep 
it  warm.  It  objects  to  temperatures  lower  than  60  degrees  fahrenheit.  With  the 
largest  of  all  Hoya  flowers,  attractive  foliage,  ease  of  growth,  and  let’s  not  forget  that 
it  has  the  most  enchanting  fragrance  imaginable. ..it  is  a winner. 


77 


Hoya  m egalaster  W arburg 


(Picture  #88) 

Crab  claws  for  dinner?  Here  is  another  spectacular  species  from  New  Guinea 
and  neighboring  parts  of  North  Eastern  Australia.  This  species  was  first 
published  by  Dr.  Warburg  in  1907.  One  of  the  differing  characteristics  of  this 
species  is  the  narrow,  star  shaped  corona  lobes  (central  part  of  the  flower)  which 
are  plainly  visible  in  our  photograph.  Not  only  are  the  flowers  large,  distinctive  and 
strikingly  beautiful,  but  the  foliage  is  deep  green  and  attractive.  Once  established 
it  is  a strong  and  rampant  grower.  Plants  with  long  internodes  will  be  most  attractive 
if  pruned  back  to  force  branching,  or  wrapped  back  upon  themselves.  If  you  don’t 
keep  this  one  under  control,  it  will  find  its  way  to  the  nearest  light  source.  In  the 
greenhouse  it  will  quickly  reach  the  peak  of  the  roof,  seeking  additional  light. 

These  plants  are  especially  attractive  when  trained  on  wire  tomato  trellises,  or 
hoops... wrapped  in,  out  and  around  to  produce  a beautiful  specimen  plant.  When 
a plant  like  this  blooms  with  3-7  large  flowers,  bring  in  all  your  friends  to  see  it.  It  is 
a knock  out!  This  species  has  some  beautiful  flower  color  variations,  so  don’t  settle 
for  just  one  if  you  have  the  room.  There  are  some  almost  black  red  types  that  are 
certainly  worth  sneaking  into  your  collection.  Always  keep  a few  cuttings  going  to 
share  with  friends,  and  to  insure  against  loss  of  the  original  plant.  Occasionally 
mature  Hoya  plants  will  die  for  no  apparent  reason.  If  a plant  looks  unhealthy,  take 
some  cuttings  immediately. 


78 


Hoya  meliflua  (Blanco)  Merrill 


(Picture  #86) 

Way  back  in  1837  a Spanish  priest  by  the  name  of  Father  Blanco  collected  and 
named  a plant  Stapelia  meliflua.  Dr.  Merrill  who  worked  for  the  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture  in  the  Philippines  as  director  of  the  Bureau  of  Science  in 
Manila,  determined  that  this  plant  was  a Hoya  and  also  synonymous 
with  another  species. ..Hoya  luzonica  described  by  Dr.  Schlechter  of  Germany. 
He  combined  the  latter  and  named  the  plant  Hoya  meliflua.  It  was  said  to  be  the 
only  species  still  found  in  the  vicinity  of  Manila,  and  generally  distributed  in  the  region 
from  which  Father  Blanco  secured  most  of  his  botanical  material.  It  is  a little 
more  complex  than  this  but  this  plant  now  goes  by  the  heading  name. 

The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  deep,  glossy  green,  and  very  thick,  showing  no  veins. 
It,  like  Hoya  fraterna,  which  it  resembles  (many  growers  still  call  this  plant  "the  small 
leaved  fraterna")  is  a very  strong  grower,  but  is  a much  better  bloomer  than  the 
latter.  Here  is  a plant  that  is  easy  to  establish,  has  strong  growth,  and  blooms 
readily.  The  spectacular,  globose  flower  clusters  are  fuzzy,  and  deep  pink.  Like 
Hoya  kerrii  they  do  exude  a colored  (almost  black)  honeydew  which  stains  the 
petals  of  the  older  flowers.  This  characteristic  is  plainly  visible  in  the  photo. 
Compare  the  central  crown  of  this  plant  with  that  of  Hoya  kerrii  and  see  the 
similarities. 

In  Father  Blanco’s  1 837  description,  his  last  words  are  "Flor.  en  Jun.  *T,  Balicbalic". 
This  means  it  flowers  or  was  in  flower  in  June  and  its  name  in  Tagalog,  the  native 
language,  means  "back  and  forth".  More  correctly  as  an  old  German  friend  of  mine 
who  worked  in  the  long  greenhouses  at  Armstrong  Nurseries  used  to  say  to  me  "all 
day  I go  Forth  and  Back".  I do  not  see  the  significance  of  the  Tagalog  name  unless 
the  name  refers  to  the  plant  twining  out  and  back  or  that  it  is  a repeat  bloomer,  in 
and  out  of  flower. 


79 


Hoya  nicholsoniae  F.  Mueller 


(Pictures  #32,  36,  90) 

We  are  fortunate  to  have  many  fine  clones  of  this  beautiful  Australian  species 
to  choose  from.  This  is  a variable  species  native  to  a wide  range 
of  environmental  conditions  in  Northern  Queensland.  Our  wide  range  of  selection 
is  due  for  the  most  part  to  the  extensive  collecting  done  by  David  J.  Liddle  of 
Mareeba,  Queensland,  Australia. 

In  its  native  habitat  it  is  usually  epiphytic  and  found  in  a wide  range  of  habitats  from 
sea  shore  to  highland  mist  forests.  This  Hoya  is  easy  to  grow  due  to  its  very  wide 
adaptability.  It  roots  easily  from  cuttings,  grows  rapidly  and  blooms  readily. 

The  plant  and  stems  are  entirely  without  hairs  (glabrous),  and  its  foliage  is  waxy 
with  prominent  palmate  venation.  The  leaves  are  mostly  flat  but  in  some  clones  the 
edges  recurve  slightly  and  the  tip  bends  under  also.  The  foliage  in  some  clones 
become  bright  red  or  purplish  if  exposed  to  high  light  intensities  or  fed  high 
phosphate  fertilizers.  This  makes  for  an  extremely  different  and  desirable  plant. 
The  flowers  are  in  semi-globose  clusters  of  10-30.  They  are  generally  cream  to 
yellow  in  color,  however  there  is  one  clone  with  a definite  light  brown  tint,  and  at 
least  one  that  is  a startling  blue  green.  All  of  these  colors  are  normally  flushed  with 
pink  overtones.  The  reflexed  petals  are  covered  with  a very  fine  pubescence, 
appearing  to  general  observation  to  be  glabrous.  The  starry,  prominent  central 
crown  is  glossy  white.  If  you  have  room,  this  is  one  species  of  which  you  may 
want  to  grow  several  different  clones. 


80 


Hoya  num  m ularioides  Costantin 


(Picture  #78) 

There  is  some  question  as  to  the  true  identity  and  thus  the  true  name  of  the 
species  depicted  here.  The  clone  pictured  came  to  me  from  the  Sakdi  Sir  Orchid 
Nursery  in  Bangkok,  Thailand.  It  was  evident  that  the  5 plants  received  were  of  at 
least  two  types,  maybe  even  two  different  species.  They  appeared  to  have  been 
whacked  from  tree  trunks  or  branches  with  a machete  as  some  slices  of  bark  and 
sapwood  were  still  attached.  The  one  pictured  here  blooms  regularly  each  fall  (early 
October),  here  in  Fresno,  California,  whereas  a slightly  larger  leafed  clone,  with 
rusty  leaf  coloring,  blooms  one  month  later  in  November. 

This  species  blooms  only  once  a year,  but  what  a profusion  of  bloom!.  Nearly 
every  node  puts  forth  an  umbel  of  blooms,  with  from  7-15  small  white  flowers  which 
have  a soft,  pink  center,  and  a mild  but  spicy  fragrance.  The  flower  stem  is 
deciduous  and  thus  drops  off  after  completing  the  fall  bloom.  This  action  is  not 
common  among  Hoyas,  as  most  normally  retain  the  bloom  stem  (peduncle)  and 
bloom  successively  from  it.  There  may  be  at  least  7 different  clones  of  this. ..or 
closely  related  species  in  commerce,  so  your  plant  may  vary  slightly  from  this 
description. 

The  plant  has  a rather  upright  growth  habit  and  with  age,  some  looping  branches. 
The  leaves  are  slightly  cupped  downward,  and  are  a rather  dull,  olive  green  and 
covered  with  fine  hairs,  which  gives  the  plant  a suede-like  or  velvety  appearance. 
Only  the  flowers  are  glabrous  (clear  of  hairs). 

This  plant  likes  a small  pot,  so  do  not  over  pot  this  one.  In  addition  it  will  grow  well 
on  the  dry  side,  and  seems  to  like  a lot  of  light,  but  not  bright  noon-day  sun.  The 
leaves  are  attached  so  they  can  be  swiveled  readily  on  their  axis,  which  is  novel 
and  a little  unusual. ..It  is  a darling! 


81 


Hoya  obovata  Decaisne 


(Pictures  #13,  14) 


Perhaps  the  all  time  number  1 champion  for  blooms.  This  strong,  vigorous 
growing  Hoya  has  thick,  fleshy,  very  round  leaves,  showing  no  veins.  The  color 
is  medium  green,  splashed  liberally  with  flecks  of  pink  and  white,  sometimes  silver 
or  grayish  green.  The  plant  is  a climber,  and  will  need  lots  of  room.  It  sends  out 
long  runners. ..at  first  leafless,  but  eventually  developing  the  fleshy  round  leaves.  It 
may  even  bloom  from  these  runners  before  the  leaves  are  well  developed.  With 
high  humidity  it  will  develop  small  rootlets  along  these  stems  and  at  the  nodes.  New 
growth  will  have  slight  tints  of  reddish  pigmentation  that  will  disappear  as  the  stem 
matures.  This  one  is  easy  to  start  from  cuttings,  and  with  good  light,  will  bloom 
practically  year  round.  Expect  clusters  of  20-30  fuzzy,  white  to  light  rose  colored 
flowers  in  a semi  globose  shape  with  deep  carmine  red  centers.  As  with  Hoya  kerrii, 
Hoya  meliflua,  Hoya  diversifolia  and  other  closely  related  species,  this  one  exudes 
a lot  of  honeydew.  In  this  case  the  nectar  is  clear  instead  of  the  dark  brown  color 
of  the  others. 

Hoya  obovata  is  said  to  come  from  the  Straits  of  Bhutan  in  the  Moluccas.  I believe 
we  have  only  one  clone  of  this  plant  in  cultivation,  and  it  would  be  nice  if  we  could 
obtain  others.  Our  present  plant,  however  has  a lot  going  for  it.  A heavy  clay  pot 
is  almost  a necessity  for  this  heavy  vine,  and  something  like  a redwood  or  cedar 
trellis  to  climb  on.  Wire  tomato  cages  also  make  good  supports.  If  the  plant 
becomes  completely  unmanageable,  drastic  pruning  does  no  harm. ..the  plant  will 
bloom  even  more  profusely  the  following  year  on  the  new  growth. 


H.  obovata 


82 


Hoya  obscura  Elmer  ex  Burton 


(Picture  #27) 

More  cuttings  of  this  species  are  received  from  native  collectors  in  the  Philippines 
each  year  than  any  other.  This  may  be  an  indication  that  it  is  very  plentiful. ..or 
so  attractive  that  it  always  catches  their  eye. 

This  plant  is  easily  recognized  by  its  glossy,  wax  like,  distinctively  shaped  and 
veined  leaves.  Although  the  leaves  may  vary  in  size,  they  retain  a definite 
recognizable  shape.  Many  cuttings,  when  first  received,  will  have  small,  very  thick 
leaves.  Once  they  are  established  and  begin  to  grow,  the  leaves  enlarge  and  are 
much  thinner.  They  also  become  a lighter  green.  This  is  another  species  whose 
leaves  will  turn  deep  bronze-red  when  given  more  light  or  high  phosphate  fertilizers. 
This  is  only  true  of  some  clones,  and  is  true  of  the  first  clone  sent  to  the  United 
States  by  the  late  Peter  Tsang.  There  are  more  recent  introductions  that  do  not 
have  this  tendency. 

In  the  Philippines  this  plant  has  found  its  way  into  the  nurseries  and  into  their 
landscaping.  One  very  effective  way  it  is  displayed  and  grown  is  by  rooting  it  on 
coconuts... husk  and  all.  It  is  pinned  in  circular  fashion  around  the  husk  which  in 
turn  is  hung  from  a wire  hooked  into  the  coconut.  This  is  a constructive  use  of  readily 
available  native  materials,  and  makes  a beautiful  hanging  basket  display. 

This  plant  is  an  epiphyte,  with  compact  bushy  growth,  and  makes  an  excellent 
house  plant.  A wonderful  light  garden  subject.. .It  seems  to  be  almost  immune  to 
pests,  even  mealy  bugs  will  by-pass  this  plant  in  favor  of  something  more  appetizing. 
Outdoors,  snails  will  mow  it  down  if  they  can  get  to  it... so  keep  some  snail  bait  handy!. 


Like  most  Philippine  species,  it  loves  a lot  of  water  and  humidity.  It  will  be  happy 
to  be  washed  off  occasionally  also.  Do  not  let  this  plant  dry  out  to  where  it  becomes 
completely  dry. ..it  will  wither  from  too  little  water.  The  flower  clusters  are  flat  and 
made  up  of  dainty,  fuzzy,  cream  to  pink  balls  of  fluff  that  smell  lovely.  The  fragrance 
is  mild  and  certainly  not  over  powering. ..just  nice.  Every  Hoya  collector  should  have 
at  least  one  clone  of  this  exceptional  plant.  Like  Hoya  lacunosa  this  is  another 
species  in  the  Otostemma  section. 


83 


Hoya  pauciflora  Wight 


(Picture  #104) 

This  glabrous  narrow  leaved  plant  comes  from  south  West  India  and  the 
neighboring  Island  of  Sri  Lanka  (Ceylon).  It  is  a compact,  thick  stemmed,  bushy 
grower.  In  nature  it  is  found  matted  over  boulders  in  the  moist  forest  regions  or 
scrambling  on  tree  trunks  in  the  low  mountainous  areas,  but  also  up  to  5000’ 
elevation.  It  seems  to  prefer  shady  places... so  might  flower  better  in  subdued  light 
and  with  high  humidity.  It  can  not  really  be  considered  a climbing  vine,  but  rather  a 
bushy  rambler.  The  internodes  (section  of  stem  between  leaf  pairs)  are  irregular 
and  this  gives  rise  to  clumps  of  leaves.  The  narrow  leaves  are  rather  rigid,  deep 
green,  with  slightly  turned  under  edges,  cupped  in  the  center  with  no  visible  veins. 
The  leaf  point  is  blunt. 

In  moist  areas  and  with  the  high  humidity  of  a greenhouse,  this  species  will  readily 
form  many  adventitious  roots,  mostly  at  the  nodes,  but  also  occasionally  from  the 
internodal  areas.  It  is  thus  well  adapted  to  clinging  to  rough  rock  surfaces.  You 
might  try  growing  this  plant  on  a rock  support.  It  is  a shy  bloomer  and  usually  has 
only  a pair  of  flowers  at  a time.  It  is  reported  in  the  literature  that  the  plants  from 
the  Sri  Lanka  area  are  good  bloomers.  This  statement  is  a contradiction  of  the 
plants’  name,  as  the  name  itself,  "pauciflora"  actually  means  few  flowers.  Let’s  hope 
that  with  further  collecting  we  may  find  clones  that  flower  more  readily. 

This  would  be  a good  subject  for  the  hybridizer,  since  the  flowers  are  real 
beauties.. .very  fuzzy,  pure  sparkling  white,  slightly  bell  shaped,  and  with  a deep 
raspberry  red  central  crown.  If  we  could,  through  hybridization,  produce  a lovely 
little  compact  plant  with  loads  of  these  fascinating,  pure  white,  wonderfully  fragrant 
flowers,  we  would  all  benefit  from  it.  Many  of  our  fuzzy  white  flowers  are  sparkling 
crystal  white,  This  is  due  to  the  hair  cells  being  hollow,  sharply  and  narrowly  pointed, 
readily  reflecting  light.  If  you  are  patient  and  experiment  a little  with  its  environment, 
you  can  probably  get  this  one  to  bloom.  It  is  certainly  worth  the  effort.  Let’s  hope 
some  collector  will  reward  us  with  additional  clones  of  this  lovely  Indian  Hoya 
species. 


84 


Hoya  pentaphlebia  Merrill 


(Picture  #113) 

This  is  a big,  bold  leafed  hoya,  measuring  3 1/2  to  6 1/2  inches  long,  and  very 
broad. ..some  leaves  are  almost  round.  They  are  waxy,  glossy  medium  green 
above  and  a lighter,  dull  (not  waxy)  color  on  the  underside.  The  margins  are 
undulant  (wavy)  and  appear  crimped  due  to  their  size  and  texture,  and  often  turn 
under  slightly.  The  five  primary  (Penta)  veins  are  readily  visible.  The  new  foliage 
often  exhibits  some  bronze  toning,  and  on  these  leaves  the  pale  venation  stands 
out  vividly. 

The  glabrous  flower  clusters  are  made  up  of  25-35  yellow  starry  flowers.  The  edges 
of  the  petal. ..lobes  as  well  as  the  tip  turn  under  yielding  a spoke  like  flower.  The 
yellow  petals  are  slightly  reflexed,  and  enhance  the  raised,  star  shaped,  pure  white 
center  crown.  This  Hoya  is  a joy  to  see  in  bloom.  Although  the  flowers  are  not  large, 
they  are  exquisitely  different.  The  color  is  actually  a rather  buttery  yellow.  The  plant 
blooms  periodically  from  early  spring  through  October.  You  will  observe  a clean, 
sweet,  citrus  fragrance  from  the  blooms  both  day  and  night.  This  is  a peculiar  trait, 
since  most  Hoyas  are  fragrant  at  night  or  late  evening  only. ..reaching  a peak  of 
fragrance  the  first  night,  then  with  successive,  diminishing  peaks  the  following 
nights. 

This  Philippine  Hoya  species  described  by  Dr.  E.D.  Merrill  in  1918  was  based  on 
a plant  collected  in  the  Cauayan  Valley  on  the  Island  of  Samar  in  1 91 4.  The  flowers 
are  very  similar  to  at  least  two  other  Philippine  species,  the  differences  lie  in  the 
foliage  size  and  in  their  dissimilar  central  crowns  among  the  visible  difference,  and 
in  their  different  pollen  structures.  With  its  large  foliage  it  is  well  clothed  and  makes 
a very  attractive  plant.  This  species  can  be  considered  a medium  to  large  plant  of 
moderately  strong  growth.  In  its  native  habitat  Hoya  pentaphlebia  is  not  a plentiful 
species. 


85 


Hoya  plicata  King  and  Gamble 
(Picture  #81) 

In  1981  Ted  Green  of  Kaaawa,  Hawaii  and  I were  on  a collecting  trip  through 
Australia,  Java,  Singapore,  Malaya  and  the  Philippines.  At  Kuala  Lumpur 
University  in  Malaysia,  Dr.  Chin  had  provided  us  with  an  experienced  collector,  and 
transportation.  One  of  our  excursions  took  us  from  the  flat  lands  of  the  capitol  area, 
to  the  east  and  the  mountains.  On  a road  that  leads  to  the  resort  area  of  the  Genting 
Highlands,  at  elevations  where  the  mist  forests  occur,  and  about  half  way  up  the 
mountain  on  a paved  road,  we  came  upon  a recently  cleared  swath  cut  down  the 
hill. ..through  the  forest,  to  provide  eventually  for  a tramway.  All  the  trees  and  other 
plants  had  been  felled,  making  this  an  ideal  locality  to  search  for  Hoyas  and  other 
plants  that  ordinarily  live  in  the  tops  of  huge  primary  jungle  trees  and  are  totally 
inaccessible.  Walking  up  a twisted  trail.. .weaving  in  and  out  of  these  fallen  giants, 
we  came  upon  orchids,  ferns,  gesnariads  and  other  exotic  plants.  In  a bend  in  the 
path  and  under  a large  tree,  I spotted  the  Hoya  depicted  here.  It  was  not  in  flower, 
but  who  cared!. 

This  is  a beautiful  plant,  with  very  dark  green  (almost  black)  lacunose  leaves 
(leaves  with  sunken  areas  between  the  veins).  Being  a medium  grower,  and  rather 
compact... it  makes  an  ideal  basket  or  hanging  plant  and  is  also  suited  to  the  light 
garden.  Another  advantage  is  that  it  flowers  at  a very  young  age.  The  flowers  are 
rather  stiff  and  the  colors  are  not  strong,  but  it  has  some  strikingly  beautiful  shapes 
as  it  develops.  At  maturity  the  petals  roll  backwards  from  the  upright  center.  This 
species  is  such  a profuse  bloomer,  that  the  many  flowers  often  hide  the  foliage. 

This  plant  has  been  confused  with  Hoya  micrantha  even  by  professional  botanists. 
Complex  chemical  analysis  however,  shows  the  two  to  be  distinct. 


86 


Hoya  polyneura  Hooker  f. 


(Picture  #76) 

This  Hoya  is  a native  of  the  Himalayan  region  of  India.  My  first  plants  of  this 
species  were  sent  to  me  by  Mr.  Genash  Mani  Pradhan  of  Genash  Villa, 
Kalampong.  This  beautiful  village  is  nestled  against  the  Himalayan  Mountains. 
Genash  tells  me  that  this  species  grows  as  an  epiphyte  with  its  long  flexible  branches 
hanging  from  the  lateral  branches  of  large  trees  which  are  bathed  with  the  monsoon 
breezes.  It  is  found  at  high  altitudes  of  from  3000’-5000’  elevation.  The  plant  was 
first  named  and  described  by  J.D.  Hooker  in  Flora  of  British  India  in  1883. 

This  plant  is  not  a vine. ..but  instead,  has  graceful,  downward  curved  branches  that 
bend  from  their  own  weight.  The  branches  are  clothed  with  fleshy,  light  to  medium 
green  leaves  with  prominent  and  distinctively  parallel  veins.  The  leaves  remind 
some  of  fish  tails,  and  it  is  sometimes  referred  to  as  the  "Fish  Tailed  Hoya".  The 
paired  leaves  are  held  flat  and  are  variable  in  size,  mostly  3-4  " long  when  mature 
and  1-2  1/2"  at  their  widest  point.  The  flower  clusters  are  borne  from  below  the 
nodes,  under  the  paired  leaves,  and  are  usually  attached  directly  to  the  flowering 
branch  with  little  or  no  bloom  stem. ..so  the  flowers  are  only  visible  from  below.  For 
this  reason,  if  the  plant  is  positioned  high  you  will  be  able  to  enjoy  viewing  the  flower 
clusters  when  your  plant  blooms.  The  reflexed  white  to  cream  corolla  contrasts 
sharply  with  the  clear  red-purple  color  of  the  corona  in  the  center.  It  is  a true  beauty!. 

This  plant  should  be  grown  cool,  with  high  humidity.  Do  not  let  the  well  drained 
potting  mixture  dry  out.  Air  movement  and  uniform  conditions  will  help  this  plant 
achieve  its  full  potential. 


87 


Hoya  p seu  d o lito  ralis  C.  Norman 


(Picture  #54) 


You  will  find  this  a beautiful  clean  attractive  plant  with  strikingly  beautiful,  graceful 
flower  clusters.  It  is  a joy  to  have  around.. .in  or  out  of  bloom.  The  foliage  prefers 
to  stream  down  over  its  container  edges,  rather  than  climb  upward.  The  fleshy 
nature  of  the  stems  and  leaves  is  pleasing  to  see.  The  rather  flat,  broad,  medium 
sized  leaves  are  not  always  uniformly  green,  which  adds  to  its  interest.  New  growth 
is  often  a beautiful  bronze  an  the  upper  surface  and  a dull  pale  green  below.  Mature 
leaves  are  often  deep  dark  green  with  a dark  maroon  edging,  It  is  not  unusual, 
however,  for  the  new  growth  near  the  ends  of  stems  to  be  mottled  with  yellowish 
and  pink  tones.  I would  grow  this  one  for  the  foliage  alone. 

The  species  is  native  to  New  Guinea  and  was  originally  described  from  a plant 
collected  by  L.J.  Brass  on  23,  February  1934  at  Dagwa,  Oriomo  River,  Western 
Division,  British  New  Guinea  at  a low  altitude  (40  meters).  The  flowers,  as  shown 
in  our  color  photograph,  have  a delicate  and  dainty  appearance.  The  fuzzy,  bright 
white  corolla  is  a wonderful  backdrop  to  the  sloping  pagoda  shaped,  soft  pink  crown 
in  the  center.  The  whole  appearance  of  the  plant  and  flowers  is  graceful  and 
pleasing. 


88 


Hoya  pubicalyx  Merrill  var.  Chimera 


(Picture  #68) 

Enough  good  things  can’t  be  said  about  this  outstanding  Philippine  species.  In 
addition  to  all  the  good  attributes  of  the  species  itself,  this  particular  type  of 
variegated  plant  can  be  a true  eye  catcher  and  a valued  conversation  piece.  This 
will  be  especially  true  when  it  bursts  into  bloom  or  visitors  view  colored  pictures  of 
the  flower  clusters. 

As  a chimera  (a  special  type  of  variegation)  the  plant  is  full  of  surprises.  The  lush, 
glossy  foliage  is  a virtual  rainbow  of  colors,  it  can  exhibit  irregular  sections  of  purplish 
colored  leaf  tissue.  ..especially  visible  on  the  young  growth  and  newly  formed  leaves, 
out  it  can  also  be  streaked  and  splashed  with  silver,  pink,  maroon,  iridescent  green 
and  even  brown.  The  new  stems  are  usually  purplish  brown,  as  are  the  leaf  petiole 
and  often  the  leaf  midrib. 

When  it  blooms  you  are  in  for  further  surprises.  Flowers  of  mixed  colors  are  not 
unusual,  color  mixing  within  individual  flowers,  as  well  as  different  flowers  within  the 
globular  clusters.  Each  cluster  may  appear  different  with  occasional  clusters  of  very 
dark,  almost  black  flowers,  others  may  have  clusters  of  light  pink,  bright  rose,  or 
deep  pink  flowers.  It  is  fun  to  look  for  branches  exhibiting  unique  color  patterns  and 
select  them  for  cuttings  to  start  new  and  improved  plants.  It  would  be  hard  to  believe 
that  anyone  could  ever  grow  tired  of  this  uncommon  plant. 

While  we  are  here  let’s  look  at  variegation  and  chimeras.  Variegation  is  widespread 
in  the  plant  kingdom,  even  in  the  Hoya  genus.  Chimeras  are  a little  more  rare. 
Variegation  may  be  irregular  in  form,  or  regular  and  more  or  less  controlled.  As  with 
most  botanical  phenomenon,  this  can  become  a very  complex  topic.  For  a very 
long  time  we  have  had  variegated  Hoyas.  Hoya  picta  var.  argentia  and  Hoya  picta 
var.  aurea  are  referred  to  in  1853.  These  variegated  species  are  still  around  today. 
Hoya  compacta,  Hoya  bella,  and  Hoya  australis  are  additional  species  with 
variegated  forms,  and  just  recently  we  acquired  a gorgeous  variegated  multiflora. 
Chimeras  like  this  H.  pubicalyx,  are  irregular  in  their  expression  of  color  and  thus 
full  of  delightful  surprises. 


89 


Hoya  purpureofusca  Hooker 


(Picture  #46) 

The  name  of  this  Hoya  has  been  attached  to  a mislabeled  species  for  many  years, 
and  has  led  to  much  confusion.  If  you  have  a plant  or  receive  one  with  this 
name,  look  at  it  carefully.  If  you  have  a plant  of  H.  cinnamomifolia,  or  know  someone 
who  does. ..compare  the  two.  The  foliage  of  the  real  purpureofusca  is  practically 
identical.  Your  plant  should  have  large,  broad,  glossy  green  leaves,  with  palmate 
venation.  If  you  find  that  your  plant  has  different  venation  (pinnate)  it  is  most  likely 
the  old  “Pink  Silver  Vine"  and  probably  should  be  labeled  Hoya  pubicalyx. 

The  flowers  are  also  similar  to  the  flowers  of  H.  cinnamomifolia,  but  are  an  entirely 
different  color,  and  are  referred  to  as  the  "Brown  Purple  flowered  Hoya". 

This  plant  comes  from  the  forests  of  Java,  and  was  sent  by  Thomas  Lobb,  an 
English  collector,  to  the  nursery  of  Messrs.  Veitch  in  Exiter,  England  where  it 
bloomed  in  September  1849. 

This  species  will  bloom  with  large  clusters  of  fuzzy,  reddish  brown  flowers  that  have 
a very  deep  red  center,  from  July  through  September.  If  conditions  are  to  their  liking 
they  may  even  bloom  in  November,  December  or  at  some  other  time. 

One  of  the  attractants  for  pollinators,  in  addition  to  color  and  fragrance  is  the  sweet 
honey  it  exudes. .note  the  clear  honeydew  on  the  flowers.  This  is  an  absolute  must 
have  for  all  Hoya  collectors. 


90 


Hoya  serpens  Hooker 


(Picture  #8) 

This  species  comes  to  us  from  the  mountains  of  Sikkim  in  the  Himalayan  region 
of  Western  India.  This  is  a relatively  cool  area,  bathed  by  monsoon  winds  and 
periods  of  much  mist  and  rainfall.  Like  many  Himalayan  foothill  species,  this  plant 
likes  cool  growing  conditions,  the  leaves  are  round  and  very  small,  deep  green  in 
color  and  have  an  irregular  surface  with  many  fine,  very  short  hairs  on  both  surfaces. 
The  plant  branches  readily  making  a dense  mat  of  foliage.  The  flowers  are 
noticeably  larger  than  the  leaves.  The  flowers  are  extremely  fuzzy,  and  when  first 
opened,  are  mint  green,  or  sometimes  slightly  yellow  green  in  color.  This  color 
deepens  with  age  and  finally  turns  to  pink.  On  plants  in  full  bloom,  all  these  colors 
can  be  present  at  one  time  as  successive  umbels  open  and  mature.  My  plant 
finally  became  happy  after  I wrapped  a short  20"  piece  of  tree  trunk,  about  8”  in 
diameter  with  some  moss,  tied  a mat  of  this  species  on  with  some  green,  elastic 
plant  tape.  This  log  was  placed  on  the  gravel  floor  of  my  hot  house  and  in  full  shade, 
where  it  is  misted  automatically  5 minutes  each  hour  during  the  warm  months,  (see 
picture  #108)  During  the  dull  winter  months,  I place  it  high  on  a steel  stool  giving  it 
a little  more  light.  Since  adopting  this  new  planting  method,  the  plant  has  survived 
and  flourished.  After  two  years  my  latest  plant  is  healthy,  well  clothed  with  lush, 
dense  foliage,  and  completely  happy  with  this  new  treatment  (picture  #108).  Grown 
in  this  manner  it  is  almost  impossible  to  overwater. 

This  species  is  not  easy  to  bloom  but  seems  to  produce  bloom  from  the  pendant 
portions  of  stems  that  hang  down  from  the  main  part  of  the  plant.  Some  growers 
report  that  it  is  happy  in  a terrarium.  It  is  a true  miniature,  so  will  adapt  readily  to 
this  confined  culture.  Another  way  it  has  been  successfully  grown  is  in  a low,  bowl 
shaped  container  of  loose  potting  media  with  a porous  rock  in  the  center  over  which 
it  can  sprawl  and  root. 


91 


Chapter  10 


The  following  pages  include  114  additional  Hoya  species,  briefly  described,  with 
guidelines  for  the  minimum  temperature  range  that  individual  species  should  be 
subjected  to.  (W)  warm. .above  60°  F.  (26°  C).  (M)  medium. .above  50°  F.  (12°  C). 
(C)  cool. .generally  above  40°  F.  (7°  C).  Note  that  these  are  only  suggestions.  The 
majority  of  Hoyas  can  adapt  to  slightly  cooler  temperatures  if  kept  on  the  dry  side. 
Just  remember  that  all  Hoyas  are  considered  tropical  or  sub-tropical,  and  although 
a few  species  (H.  carnosa,  com  pacta,  globulosa,  serpens  and  polyneura)  can 
survive  cooler  temperatures,  and  even  a light  frost  for  a short  period  of  time,  they 
love  the  warmth,  and  do  best  if  kept  at,  or  above  their  minimum  temperature  range. 


Picture  #1..  H.  australis.. Described  on  page  64. .The  clone  pictured  is  not  a 
typical  flower  for  this  species,  in  that  the  petals  are  normally  pure  white.  The 
pink  polka  dots  on  the  petal  tips  were  a pleasant  surprise.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #2..  H.  lacunosa. .Described  on  page  75.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #3..  H.  arnottiana.. Described  on  page  63.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #4..  H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Fresno  Beauty’..A  registered  H.  pubicalyx  seedling. 
Glossy  green  foliage,  heavily  speckled  with  white.  Dark  rose  red  flower  with  white 
crown.  (M)  Photo  bv  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #5..  H.  kenejiana..Dark  green  wiry  climber.  Cheddar  cheese  yellow 
flowers  with  white  fuzz  on  the  corollas,  pure  white  crown.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry 
Raphael 

Picture  #6..  H.  multiflora.. Small,  dark  yellow  flowers  shaped  like  shooting  stars, 
with  white  crown  and  purple  center.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


92 


Picture  #7..  H.  kerrii  ..Described  on  page  74.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #8..  H.  serpens. .Described  on  page  91.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #9..  H.  acuta  (green  form).. Described  on  page  62.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #10..  H.  sp.  from  tanna..Dark  green,  thin  leaved  species,  with  milky 
white,  slightly  cup  shaped  flowers,  and  a very  pale  pink  crown.  (W)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #11..  H.  pachyclada..A  shrub  type  Hoya  with  waxy,  pure  white,  ball 
shaped  corolla  and  a white  crown.  Very  thick  olive  green  leaves.  (M)  Photo  by 
Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #12..  H.  sp.  Bangkok  #4. .Thick,  oval  shaped,  olive  green  leaves.  Pure 
white,  extremely  waxy  flowers  with  a deep  rose  red  center.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #13..  H.  obovata.. Described  on  page  82.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #14..  H.  obovata  (foliage).. A close-up  photo  for  those  of  you  who  have 
not  as  yet  determined  whether  you  have  H.  kerrii  (the  sweetheart  Hoya),  or  this 
plant,  with  it’s  round,  lightly  spotted  leaves.  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #15..  H.  fuscomarginata.. Identity  of  this  plant  is  not  certain.  Huge 
umbels  of  creamy  yellow  flowers  with  a deep  pink  crown  that  has  dark,  dusty 
rose  tips.  Foliage  on  this  plant  is  magnificent.. huge,  dark,  glossy  green  leaves 
with  purple  margins  and  a beautiful  vein  pattern.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #16..  H.  Mini  Belle. .This  plant  appears  to  be  a hybrid  cross  between 
Hoya  longifolia,  or  Hoya  shepherdii  and  Hoya  carnosa.  Perfect  ball-shaped 
umbels  of  sparkling  pink  flowers  with  pink  crown  and  dark  red  center.  Dark 
green,  stringbean  shaped  leaves.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #17..  HSI  #458. .An  unidentified  Hoya  species  with  pale  pink  fuzzy 
petals  and  a darker  pink  center.  Very  dark  green,  lance  shaped  leaves.  (M) 
Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #18..  H.  diversifolia  B.. .Another  plant  whose  true  identity  is  unknown. 
These  leaves  are  enormous,  as  large  as  a dinner  plate,  very  thick,  glossy  green 
and  spattered  with  silver  blotches.  The  huge  flower  umbels  are  perfectly  round 
with  up  to  60  small  white  to  pale  yellow  flowers.  The  crown  is  white  with  a pink  or 
sometimes  orange  center.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


93 


Picture  #19..  H.  polystachya.. Another  giant  leaved  plant  from  Java.  The  flowers 
are  very  tiny,  brown  on  the  tips,  shading  to  tan  toward  the  center.  The  crown  is 
white.  These  flowers  form  on  bloom  stalks  that  are  shaped  like  deer  antlers.  (M) 
Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #20..  H.  sp.  Chiang  Mai. .This  plant  has  been  identified  as  Hoya 
subquintuplinervis.  One  of  the  waxiest  of  Hoya  blooms,  the  buds  open  a pale 
green,  and  slowly  turn  to  light  pink  with  a white  crown.  Very  thick  olive  green 
leaves.  (M)  Photo  by  Chuck  Everson 

Picture  #21..  H.  loherii  (foliage). .These  leaves  grow  straight  up,  are  hard  like 
cardboard,  and  the  sides  curl  under  like  an  inside  out  canoe.  They  are  medium 
green  on  the  outside  and  a dull  pale  green  on  the  underside.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #22..  H.  loherii. .This  plant  has  been  in  cultivation  for  a few  years,  but 
because  of  the  odd  upright  foliage,  was  thought  to  be  a Dischidia.  The  blooms 
are  tiny,  very  fuzzy,  and  a glowing  bronze  color.  (W)  Photo  by  Dale  Kloppenburg 

Picture  #23..  H.  sp.  F-484..An  unidentified  species  from  Borneo.  White,  fuzzy 
petals  roll  backward  into  a ball.  Beautiful,  shiny,  glossy  green,  cascading  foliage. 
Fragrance  of  allspice.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #24..  H.  littoralis.. Graceful,  cascading,  dark  green,  lance  shaped  foliage. 
Dainty,  dark  rose  colored  flowers  with  white  fuzz  at  the  base  of  the  petals,  dark 
reddish  purple  crown.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #25..  H.  compacta.The  Hindu  Rope  Hoya.  Tightly  curled  and  twisted 
leaves  cling  to  long  dangling  branches,  and  look  like  knotted  rope.  The  flowers 
are  white  or  sometimes  pink,  and  grow  from  bloom  spurs  that  form  between  the 
leaf  stems.  This  plant  also  comes  in  several  versions  of  beautifully  variegated 
foliage.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #26..  H.  calycina..A  dazzling  pure  white  Hoya  with  a deep  red  halo  under 
the  white  crown.  Large,  very  fuzzy  leaves  that  feel  like  velvet.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #27..  H.  obscura.. Described  on  page  83.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #28..  H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Red  Buttons’.The  heavy  fuzz  on  the  red  petals  of 
this  Hoya  makes  it  look  almost  black.  The  crown  is  a beautiful  cranberry  red  with 
black  in  the  center.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


94 


Picture  #29..  H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Bright  One’. .Another  pubicalyx  cultivar  that 
deserves  recognition.  Beautiful,  iridescent  mauve  color,  with  white  fuzz  on  the 
tips  of  the  petals.  The  crown  is  pale  pink  with  a deeper  pink  center.  (M)  Photo 
by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #30..  H.  ischnopus.This  may  not  be  the  correct  identity  for  this  plant.  It 
opened  over  a period  of  about  four  days,  first  pale  yellow,  then  turning  pink.  A 
wiry  climber  with  dark  green  leaves.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #31..  H.  bella.. Probably  the  most  photographed  Hoya  in  existence. 
Medium  sized,  pure  sparkling  white  flowers  with  deep  carmine  red  center.  This 
is  the  variety  ‘Paxtonii’  and  has  longer  diamond  shaped  leaves,  slightly  wavy  on 
the  edges,  and  larger  flowers.  The  form  of  H.  bella  that  we  are  more  familiar 
with,  has  very  small  diamond  or  lance  shaped  foliage  that  cascades  beautifully 
from  a hanging  basket.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #32..  H.  nicholsoniae..(IML  #37). .beautifully  veined  foliage  adorned  with 
golden  yellow  flowers  and  a pure  white  crown.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #33..  H.  shepherdii. .Called  the  "stringbean  Hoya",  due  to  the  long 
stringbean  shaped  leaves  that  dangle  like  stringbeans  from  a vine.  The  flowers 
are  small,  white  or  pale  pink  with  a white  crown  and  a dark  pink  center.  (C) 

Photo  By  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #34..  H.  citrinaJt  is  uncertain  whether  the  plant  portrayed  here  is 
actually  citrina.  This  was  the  name  on  the  label  at  the  time  of  purchase,  so 
unless,  or  until  it  is  proven  otherwise,  it  will  continue  to  carry  this  name.  The 
flowers  are  white,  sometimes  pale  yellow,  very  waxy,  and  has  beautiful,  big,  bold 
leaves.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #35..  H.  Sp.  CI-1244. .A  neat,  clean  growing  plant  in  the  Hoya  acuta 
complex.  The  leaves  on  this  plant  are  smaller  and  thicker  then  most  acuta  types. 
(M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #36..  H.  nicholsoniae..(IML  #39). .Gorgeous,  heavily  veined  foliage.  The 
flowers  on  this  plant  are  creamy  yellow  with  a ‘cotton  candy’  pink  center,  good 
bloomer.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #37..  H.  cinnamomifolia.. Described  on  page  67.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry 
Raphael 

Picture  #38..  H.  cumingiana.. Described  on  page  68.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


95 


Picture  #39..  H.  gracilis.. This  beautiful  little  plant  came  from  the  Isle  of  Ceram  in 
the  Celebes.  The  small  lance  shaped  foliage  is  speckled  all  over  with  silver.  The 
flowers  are  small  but  exquisite.  The  pink  petals  are  heavily  covered  with  white 
fur,  but  the  very  tips  of  the  petals  are  dark  pink.  The  crown  is  the  color  of  ripe 
watermelon.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #40. .H.  neoebudica.This  tan  or  slightly  orange  flower  looks  as  if  it  were 
sculptured  in  wax,  with  a luscious  contrasting  pink  center.  Foliage  is  glossy 
green  with  beautiful  veins.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #41..  H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Pink  Silver’. .Most  of  us  have  at  least  one  of  these 
in  our  collections.  The  foliage  is  beautifully  patterned  with  silver,  white,  pink  and 
sometimes  maroon.  The  flowers  are  stunning  and  can  be  any  color  from  bright 
wine  red,  to  purple,  or  like  this  one  a delicious  cotton  candy  pink.  (M)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #42..  H padangensis.. Perhaps  the  most  unusual  shaped  Hoya,  with 
petals  whose  sides  curl  under  to  form  tight  little  rolls.  This  Hoya  can  bloom  light 
brown,  pale  pink  or  off  white  with  a prominent  pure  white  crown.  The  buds  are  a 
perfect  star  shape.  The  foliage  is  dark  olive  green,  often  with  some  silver 
streaking.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #43..  H.  sp.  PNG  4. .Dark  green  dangling  foliage,  with  prominent  veins. 
Medium  sized,  slightly  fuzzy  flowers  are  pinkish  purple,  with  dark,  port  wine 
colored  crown.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #44..  H.  camphorifolia.. Described  on  page  66.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #45..  H.  inconspicua.. Described  on  page  73.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #46..  H.  purpureofusca.. Described  on  page  90.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #47..  H.  caudata  var.  crassifolia.. Flowers  on  this  Hoya  are  small  to 
medium  in  size,  pure  white  to  pale  pink  in  color,  with  long  silky,  white  hairs  on  the 
petal  edges.  The  center  crown  is  dark  rose  red  with  long,  white  hairs  protruding 
from  the  center.  New  leaves  are  iridescent,  emerald  green,  with  silver  blotching, 
as  they  age  they  become  hard  as  cardboard,  and  exposure  to  bright  light  will  turn 
the  spotting  on  the  leaves  to  bright  pink  or  maroon.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #48..  H.  odorata.True  to  its  name,  this  Hoya  has  a lovely,  spicy,  citrus 
fragrance.  The  leaves  are  very  thin,  and  copper  colored  when  new.  The 
branches  are  long,  and  cascade  gracefully  from  their  own  weight  as  they  age. 


96 


The  large,  pure  white  flowers  have  a startling  bright  yellow  crown,  and  form  on 
pedicels  that  grow  directly  from  the  leaf  axils  instead  of  on  long  bloom  spurs.  (W) 
Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #49..  H.  sp.  PNG  1.. Probably  the  same  species  as  PNG  4.  This 
particular  clone  has  narrower  leaves.  The  flowers  are  brownish  red  and  form 
large,  spherical  umbels.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #50..  H.  pottsii.The  likelihood  of  this  plant  being  pottsii  is  doubtful.  The 
foliage  is  bold  and  beautifully  veined,  turning  shiny  cordovan  brown  in  bright 
light.  The  flowers  are  very  waxy,  white  or  slightly  tan,  with  a white  crown  and  a 
dark  rose  colored  center.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #51..  H.  erythrina.. Described  on  page  69.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #53..  H.  diversifolia.The  large,  thick,  succulent  leaves  on  this  plant  are 
variable  and  can  be  oval  shaped,  long  and  broad  or  other  shapes  as  well,  on  the 
same  plant,  thus  the  name  diversifolia.  The  dusty  rose  to  slightly  orange  colored 
flowers  are  small  and  very  fuzzy,  with  a deep  pink  stripe  down  the  center  of  each 
petal,  the  crown  is  dark,  rose  red.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #54..  H.  pseudolitoralis.. Described  on  page  88.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #55..  H.  limoniaca.. Described  on  page  76.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


Picture  #56..  H.  sp.  CMF-8..This  gorgeous  plant  from  the  Philippines  has 
dazzling,  dark  green  leaves,  attractively  net  veined  in  white.  The  creamy  yellow 
flowers  are  very  waxy,  have  a pretty  pink  crown,  with  dark  pink  petal  tips  and 
center.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #57..  H.  bilobata.. Described  on  page  65.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #58..  H.  micrantha. .Medium  sized,  very  hard,  cardboard-like  leaves  are 
dark  grass  green  and  have  a graceful  cascading  habit  that  makes  a beautiful 
basket  plant.  The  flowers  are  tiny,  pale  pink,  and  very  fuzzy  with  a stunning  rose 
red  crown.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #59..  H.  sp.  PNG  6. .Gorgeous,  heavily  veined  foliage  makes  a beautiful 
back-drop  for  these  rather  small,  fuzzy  flowers.  They  are  a peculiar  color,  being 
neither  brown,  pink  or  orange,  but  somewhere  in  between.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 


97 


Picture  #60..  H.  poolei.. Dazzling,  fuzzy,  sugar  white  flowers  with  a delicate, 
translucent  pink  crown  and  a dark  pink  center.  Foliage  is  dull  gray  green,  but 
turns  reddish  bronze  in  bright  light.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #61..  H.  tsangii.. Formerly  sold  as  H.  sp.  DS-70,  and  also  as  H. 
angustifolia.  This  pretty  little  plant  is  a "blooming  fool".  Blooms  practically  year 
round,  displaying  hundreds  of  tiny,  very  fuzzy  pink  flowers.  The  crown  is  dark 
pink  with  yellow  tips.  The  leaves  are  dull  gray  green  due  to  the  heavy,  short 
white  fuzz  that  feels  like  felt  or  suede.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #62..  H.  merrillii.. Absolutely  stunning  foliage  adorns  this  plant.  Leaves 
turn  a dark,  shiny,  cordovan  brown  in  bright  light.  The  starry  flowers  are  pale, 
creamy  yellow  with  petal  tips  that  curl  under  at  the  sides  and  tip  to  give  a 
squared  off  appearance.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #63..  H.  diptera..Neat,  clean,  bright  green,  oval  shaped  leaves  give  this 
plant  a tidy  appearance.  The  flowers  open  pale  mint  green  then  turn  yellow, 
having  a light  fuzz  along  the  edges  of  each  petal.  The  crown  is  translucent,  with 
brownish  yellow  tips  and  a dark,  rose  pink  center.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #64..  H.  affinis..A  large  flowered  Hoya  in  the  Ereostemma  section.  The 
foliage  of  the  plants  in  this  section  are  always  fuzzy  to  some  degree,  The  flowers 
are  usually  very  waxy  with  a hard  texture  and  good  lasting  qualities.  The  flowers 
on  this  Hoya  are  over  one  inch  across,  brownish  purple  in  color  with  a yellow 
crown  and  a dark  brown  center.  (W)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #65..  H.  acuta  (bronze  form). .Typical  acuta  type  flowers.  The  buds  are  a 
glowing  bronze  color.  The  open  flowers  have  a pinkish  bronze  tint.  (M)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #66..  H.  darwinii.. Comes  from  the  Philippines,  and  is  one  of  the  true 
beauties  of  the  Hoya  world.  Unfortunately  this  is  a very  difficult  Hoya  to  grow. 
The  leaves,  as  a rule,  are  thin  and  dark  blue  green,  but  it  will  often  form  large 
bullate  leaves  that  are  inhabited  by  ants  in  the  wild.  The  flowers  are  large, 
iridescent,  pinkish  mauve  in  color,  with  a pure  white  crown  and  a dark  rose  red 
center.  The  crown  sits  very  prominently  on  top,  like  a queen’s  tiara.  (W)  Photo 
by  Rex  Elliott 

Picture  #67..  H.  fungii.. Described  on  page  72.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #68..  H.  pubicalyx  var.  Chimera. .Described  on  page  89.  (M)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 


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Picture  #69..  H.  Sp.  Gold  Star.. Another  very  large  Hoya  of  the  Ereostemma 
section.  The  leaves  are  slightly  fuzzy,  and  medium  green  in  color.  The  flower  is 
one  and  one  half  inch  or  more  across,  very  hard  and  waxy  in  texture,  and  a 
delightful  golden  yellow  in  color.  The  crown  is  also  golden  yellow.  (W)  Photo  by 
Bob  Stone 

Picture  #70..  H.  carnosa  cv.’Krinkle  8’. .One  of  the  more  decorative  cultivars  that 
has  appeared  in  recent  years,  and  among  the  very  best!  The  foliage  is  thick  and 
quite  succulent,  dark,  glossy  green  with  indentations  on  each  side  of  the 
mid-vein.  The  medium  sized  carnosa  type  flowers  are  either  pure  white  with  a 
red  center  or  can  be  various  shades  of  pink.  The  growth  pattern  of  this  plant 
makes  it  a winner.  The  close  leaved  branches  grow  rapidly,  into  long,  cascading 
waterfalls  of  deep  green.  There  is  also  a gorgeous,  variegated  form  of  this  plant. 
(C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #71..  H.  sp.  BSI-1 .. These  large,  slightly  cup  shaped,  pinkish  purple 
flowers  virtually  sparkle.  The  crown  is  pure  white  with  a deep  red  center.  The 
leaves  on  this  plant  are  not  very  thick  but  are  quite  large,  and  an  attractive,  dark 
blue  green  in  color.  The  open  flowers  have  a luscious  grape  fragrance.  (W) 
Photo  by  Bob  Stone 

Picture  #72..  H.  sp.  Sabah  Malaysia. .This  species  appears  to  be  in  the  Hoya 
acuta  complex.  It  has  earned  a place  in  our  Hall  of  Fame  because  of  its  fantastic 
blooming  qualities.  It  flowers  practically  year  round,  with  dozens  of  umbels  open 
at  a time.  The  flowers  are  small,  white,  and  very  waxy.  It  has  a mild  honey 
fragrance.  (M)  Phoyo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #73..  H.  archboldiana. .These  bowl  shaped  flowers  are  two  inches 
across,  and  this  particular  clone  is  rose  red  inside  the  bowl  with  a cranberry  red 
corona.  The  outside  of  the  bowl  is  light  emerald  green.  The  leaves  are  very 
large,  and  such  a dark  green  that  they  appear  black.  The  fragrance  of  these 
flowers  is  spellbinding.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #74..  H.  sp.  WMZ.This  is  an  unidentified,  velvet  leaved  plant  from  New 
Guinea.  The  pure  white  flowers  are  very  large,  up  to  two  and  a half  inches 
across,  slightly  bowl  shaped,  and  have  a huge  lime  green  calyx  with  a red  edge. 
Another  wonderfully  fragrant  Hoya.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #77..  H.  naumanii.The  identity  of  this  plant  is  doubtful.  Whatever  it  is, 
it’s  a real  beauty,  with  one  inch,  pale  pink  flowers  having  a darker  pink  at  the 
base  of  each  petal,  and  shading  to  light  rose  near  the  tips.  The  crown  is  pure 
white.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


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Picture  #78..  H.  nummularioides.. Described  on  page  81.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #79..  H.  coriacea.. Large  blue  green  leaves  have  a soft  quilted  texture. 
These  huge  umbels,  often  consist  of  50  or  more  golden  yellow  flowers,  with  long 
silky  hairs  on  the  petals.  The  crown  is  very  waxy  and  pure  white  to  pale  pink  with 
a mauve  center.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #80..  H.  carnosa..One  of  the  oldest,  and  best  known  of  all  the  Hoya 
species. .It  remains,  one  of  the  very  best.  (C)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #81..  H.  plicata.. Described  on  page  86.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #82..  H.  motoskei.The  Hoya  specimen  that  was  described,  named  H. 
carnosa  and  placed  in  herbariums  in  the  year  1802  belonged  to  this 
species. ..thereby  making  this  the  "true"  Hoya  carnosa.  This  clone  goes  by  the 
name  of  "Snowball"  because  of  the  pure  white,  ball  shaped  clusters  of  flowers. 

The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  dark  green,  and  quite  thick  and  succulent  with  a short 
fuzz  on  the  backside.  It  has  an  overpowering  honey  fragrance.  (C)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #83..  H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Dapple  Gray’.This  plant  has  the  typical  silver  and 
pink  spattered  leaf  of  pubicalyx,  but  also  has  some  areas  of  gray  blotches.  The 
large  flowers  are  a gorgeous  shade  of  rose  wine,  with  silvery  or  light  gray  fuzz 
around  each  petal  edge.  Nice  fragrance,  and  a very  heavy  bloomer.  (M)  Photo 
by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #84..  H.  carnosa  ‘Krimson  Queen’.. All  Hoyas  have  attractive  green 
foliage.  This  is  a stunning  variation  with  dark  blue  green  centers  and  edged  in 
pink,  white  or  sometimes  yellow.  Often  these  colors  are  all  found  on  the  same 
plant.  (C)  Photographer  unknown 

Picture  #85..  H.  australis  ssp.  sanae..A  desert  form  of  Hoya  australis  with 
extremely  thick,  succulent  leaves.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #86..  H.  meliflua.. Described  on  page  79.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #87..  H.  macgillivrayi.. Described  on  page  77.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #88..  H.  megalster.. Described  on  page  78.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #89..  H.  linearis.The  very  odd  shaped  leaves  of  this  species  from  India 
seem  to  disguise  the  fact  that  this  is  actually  a Hoya,  however  when  the  small 
white  flowers  open,  there  is  no  denying  that  this  is  indeed  a Hoya.  The  leaves  on 


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this  plant  are  two  to  three  inches  long,  straw  thin,  and  covered  with  long,  velvety 
hairs.  The  leaves  droop  lazily  from  thread-like  stems.  Aphids  don’t  normally 
bother  this  plant,  nor  do  mealy  bugs.  It  is,  however  "spider  mite"  heaven,  and  it 
is  suggested  that  this  plant  be  sprayed  weekly  with  a diluted  alcohol  solution  to 
keep  the  mites  at  bay.  If  you  can  keep  the  mites  off  this  plant,  it  can  grow  to  four 
feet  long  or  more  in  one  season.  (M)  Photo  by  Carla  McGavran 

Picture  #90..  H.  Sp.  USDA  354239. .A  beautiful  plant  in  the  Hoya  nicholsoniae 
complex.  The  leaves  are  heavily  veined,  and  the  foliage  turns  mahogany  brown 
in  bright  light.  The  flowers  are  pale  mint  green  with  a white  crown.  (M)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #91..  H.  sp.  Kuching,  Borneo  (#ML  232). .This  is  a beautiful  little  plant 
collected  in  Borneo.  The  foliage  is  very  similar  to  H.  lacunosa,  but  there  the 
similarities  end.  The  flower  is  pure  white  with  a dark  cranberry  red  crown.  The 
petals  do  not  reflex  backwards,  but  instead  are  pushed  upwards  at  the  base  from 
a small  ridge  underneath.  This  makes  the  crown  appear  sunken,  and 
surrounded  by  tiny  white  pillows.  Only  the  petal  tips  curl  under.  Wonderfully 
fragrant.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #92..  H.  archboliana  (pink  form). .This  is  merely  another  color  variation  to 
H.  archboldiana  (picture  #73),  being  a lovely  dusty  rose  around  the  top  of  the 
bowl.  The  center  inside  is  startling  white,  the  crown  is  cranberry  red.  The  bowl 
on  the  outside  is  white  to  pale  pink.  The  foliage  on  this  plant  is  smaller  and  not 
as  dark  as  the  red  form.  It  is  not  unusual  for  this  plant  to  have  two  hundred  or 
more  flowers  open  at  once.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #93..  H.  chlorantha  var.  tutuilensis.This  pretty  species  comes  from 
Tutuila  in  American  Samoa.  The  leaves  are  thin  and  lance  shaped,  the  stems 
are  thread-thin  and  wiry.  The  fuzzy  flowers  on  this  species  are  rather  small  but 
impressive,  being  yellowish  brown,  and  marbled  with  rose  colored  streaks 
throughout  each  petal.  The  crown  is  reddish  brown.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #94..  H.  sp.  Bangkok  Red.. An  unidentified  species  from  Thailand.  The 
flowers  of  this  species  are  pure  white,  including  the  crown,  and  have  the 
appearance  of  being  carved  from  wax.  The  foliage  of  this  plant  makes  it  a 
worthwhile  addition  to  collections.  The  leaves  are  very  thick  and  succulent,  and 
will  turn  a gorgeous,  shiny,  cordovan  brown  or  sometimes  dark  maroon  in  bright 
light,  hence  the  name  "Bangkok  Red".  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #95..  H.  eitapensis.This  small  growing,  basket  plant  comes  from  New 
Guinea,  and  has  pure  white  flowers,  slightly  fuzzy  on  the  edges  of  the  petals,  and 
a yellow  center.  It  is  difficult  to  tell  which  way  is  up  on  this  species,  as  the  foliage 


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has  an  unusual  growth  pattern,  and  appears  to  be  growing  upside  down.  The 
leaves  are  a lovely  olive  green  and  turn  pinkish  brown  in  bright  light.  (W)  Photo 
by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #96..  H.  kentiana.This  species  has  long,  thick,  stringbean  shaped 
foliage,  the  sides  curve  upwards  forming  a crease  down  the  center.  The  flowers 
are  small,  and  the  very  fuzzy,  rose  colored  petals  recurve  backwards  to  form  a 
ball.  The  crown  is  red,  or  reddish  purple,  and  sits  atop  the  curved  petals  like  a 
tiny  pagoda.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #97..  H.  sussuella  (ariadna).The  identity  of  this  species  is  not  certain, 
however,  ‘ariadna’  is  the  name  the  plant  is  sold  under  by  many  dealers.  It  is  a 
species  in  the  Ereostemma  section,  has  slightly  fuzzy  leaves  and  stems  when 
young,  turning  hairless  with  age.  This  plant  is  a real  challenge  to  bloom,  but 
worth  the  effort.  The  flowers  are  magnificent!  Very  large  and  waxy,  burnt  orange 
in  color  with  a golden  yellow  crown,  and  a dark  brown  stain  at  the  base  of  each 
coronal  lobe.  The  flowers  open  out  flat,  the  bases  of  the  petals  are  pushed  up 
around  the  crown  from  a ridge  underneath  and  the  sides  and  tip  end  of  the  petals 
curl  under  slightly.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #98. .H.  sp.  DAV-817..This  species  is  identical  to  the  plant  pictured  in 
frame  #71  ..BSI-1 . It  is  shown  here  again,  due  to  the  fact  that  it  is  being  sold 
under  both  numbers.  It  is  also  sold  under  the  name  H.  subcalva.  Hopefully  there 
will  be  a proper  identification  for  this  beautiful  species  soon.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #99..  H.  erythrostemma..A  ballet  dancer  in  a lacy  white  tutu,  would  be  an 
ideal  description  of  this  gorgeous  Malaysian  species.  The  foliage  of  this  plant  is 
so  similar  to  Hoyas  in  the  acuta  complex,  that  many  people  were  fooled  for 
several  years,  thinking  it  was  just  another  Hoya  acuta.  The  story  goes,  that  even 
as  the  buds  formed,  it  was  realized  that  this  species  was  something 
extraordinary.  These  very  unique  flowers  are  breathtakingly  beautiful.  Pure 
sparkling  white,  very  fuzzy  or  lacy  petals  topped  by  a rich,  ruby  red  crown.  The 
individual  flowers  are  medium  sized,  but  the  umbels  consist  of  40  to  50  each, 
forming  a flower  cluster  approximately  three  inches  across.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #100..  H.  dimorphaJt  is  uncertain  whether  this  is  the  proper 
identification  for  this  plant.  The  flower  umbels  are  quite  large  and  consist  of  35  to 
40  medium  sized,  golden  yellow  flowers  with  a lot  of  white  fuzz  on  each  petal,  the 
crown  is  pure  white.  The  foliage  is  dark  blue  green,  the  stems  are  thin  and  wiry. 
(M)  Photo  by  George  French 

Picture  #101..  H.  incrassata.There  are  many  clones  of  this  Philippine  species 
being  distributed.  The  leaves  on  some  are  long,  rather  thin  and  oval  shaped, 


102 


others  have  almost  round,  thicker  leaves.  The  flowers  on  all  these  clones  appear 
to  be  the  same,  with  maybe  some  being  only  a little  larger  than  others.  This  is  an 
extremely  easy  plant  to  grow  and  flower.  The  individual  flowers  are  quite  small, 
very  waxy,  and  golden  yellow  with  dark  brown  petal  tips  that  reflex  sharply 
backwards.  The  crown  is  white.  This  species  has  a lovely,  mild,  spice 
fragrance.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #102..  H.  multiflora. .A  gorgeous,  blue/green  foliaged  clone  from  the 
Philippines.  The  soft,  mint  green  color  of  these  flowers  and  the  petals  that  lay 
out  almost  flat,  are  the  distinguishing  feature  that  sets  this  plant  apart  from  the 
other  clones  of  multiflora.  It  flowers  off  and  on  throughout  the  year,  with  its 
heaviest  concentration  of  blooms  appearing  in  early  spring.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #103..  H.  sp.  Sabah  Malaysia  (IML  #557). .Although  this  species 
remains  unidentified  at  this  time,  no  collection  should  be  without  this  beautiful 
little  plant.  It  would  be  considered  a semi  miniature,  and  perfect  for  the  light 
garden,  or  window  sill  growing.  The  leaves  are  approximately  three  inches  long 
and  pointed  at  both  ends,  emerald  green  in  color  with  spots  and  streaks  of  white 
and  brown.  The  flowering  umbel  consists  of  25  to  30  medium  sized  flowers 
whose  petals  are  dark,  dusty  rose  with  a light  overlay  of  soft  white  hair.  The 
crown  is  sparkling  ruby  red,  rather  large,  and  sits  atop  of  the  petals  like  a 
Chinese  pagoda.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #105..  H.  caudata  var.  crassifolia..A  very  close-up  shot  of  the  same 
delicate  blossoms  that  are  featured  in  picture  #47.  Shown  here  again  to 
emphasize  these  exquisite,  lace-like  flowers.  (M)  Photo  by  Rex  Elliott 

Picture  #106..  H.  sp.  Bogor..  This  plant  has  been  tentatively  identified  as  H. 
pallida,  but  is  being  considered  for  further  study.  The  leaves  of  this  plant  have 
very  rigid  acuta  type  leaves,  but  with  small  indentations  on  top  along  the 
mid-vein.  The  flowers  are  small  to  medium  sized  and  are  coppery  pink  including 
the  crown,  and  has  a dark  pink  center.  Strong  honey  fragrance.  (M)  Photo  by 
Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #107..  H.  sp.  DAV-819..A  species  collected  in  the  Solomon  Islands  and 
tentatively  identified  as  H.  cominsii.  The  stunning  foliage  of  this  plant  is  slightly 
heart  shaped,  emerald  green  and  heavily  net  veined  in  white.  The  flowers  are 
medium  sized  and  open  a lovely  mint  green,  fading  gradually  to  light  creamy 
yellow  with  a startling  pure  white  crown.  The  petals  turn  under  on  the  tips  and 
sides  to  produce  a squared  off  appearance.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


103 


Picture  #108..  H.  serpens. .A  particularly  elegant  technique  for  growing  H. 
serpens  is  on  a moss  covered  log.  The  moss  must  be  kept  moist  at  all  times, 
and  a light  daily  misting  with  a hose  or  spray  bottle  is  recommended.  (M)  Photo 
by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #109..  H.  sp.  New  Guinea  White.. Another  velvet  leaved  species  from  the 
island  of  New  Guinea.  The  flower  is  large,  slightly  cup  shaped,  and  pure  white. 
The  only  other  color  on  this  flower  is  just  the  barest  hint  of  red  underneath  the 
waxy  white  crown.  A nice,  but  almost  overpowering  fragrance  accompanies  the 
opening  of  these  flowers.  Very  difficult  to  bring  into  first  bloom,  but  an  easy 
bloomer  once  it  gets  started.  Also  sold  as  USDA  #354244.  (M)  Photo  by  Carla 
McGavran 

Picture  #110..  H.  globulosa..Many  collectors  have  this  plant  incorrectly  labeled 
as  H.  bandaensis.  The  foliage  of  this  species  is  simply  gorgeous,  dark  emerald 
green,  with  even  darker  marbled  veins  that  are  often  quite  fuzzy.  It’s  reported  to 
be  very  difficult  to  flower  in  the  U.S.  but  some  growers  here  who  grow  them 
outdoors  have  great  success  with  blooming.  The  flowers  are  medium  in  size, 
pure  white  to  soft,  creamy  yellow,  with  a hint  of  pink  under  the  white  crown.  They 
form  huge  umbels  that  are  perfect  spheres,  or  globe  shaped,  hence  the  name 
‘globulosa’.  This  is  also  one  of  the  few  Hoyas  that  is  described  as  having  a 
rather  foul  odor.  (C)  Photo  by  Chuck  Everson 

Picture  #111..  H.  imperialis  var.  rauschiLAn  aptly  named  Hoya,  in  that  it  is  fit  for 
a king!  The  flower  umbels  usually  consist  of  8 to  8 large,  slightly  cup  shaped 
flowers  up  to  three  inches  across,  and  can  be  any  shade  of  coppery  pink  to 
brownish  red  with  a pure  white  crown.  This  variety  has  large,  slightly  wavy,  dark 
green  foliage.  (W)  Photo  by  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #112..  H.  densifolia..lt  is  not  certain  whether  this  is  the  correct  identity  for 
this  plant.  It  appears  to  match  the  drawings  and  descriptions  in  the  literature. 

The  flowers  seem  identical  to  those  of  H.  cumingiana,  at  least  to  the  naked  eye. 
The  foliage  is  also  similar  but  longer,  thinner  and  the  internodes  are  farther  apart. 
It  blooms  more  freely  than  cumingiana.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #113..  H.  pentaphlebia., Described  on  page  85.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann 
Wayman 

Picture  #114..  H.  carnosa  variegata..A  typical  carnosa  type  flower,  usually  light 
to  dark  pink,  and  with  a dark  red  center.  The  spectacular  foliage  of  these 
variegated  type  plants  are  their  major  attraction.  The  new  growth  is  normally 
dark  purple  or  maroon,  but  soon  begin  to  turn  different  colors  as  they  age.  Fully 
mature  leaves  can  be  green  and  white,  green  and  pink,  green  and  yellow,  or 
display  all  of  these  colors  at  once,  with  an  occasional  branch  displaying  solid 


104 


white  or  solid  pink  leaves.  These  white  and  pink  leaved  branches  don’t  normally 
live  very  long  as  they  have  no  chlorophyll,  but  enjoy  the  contrast  for  a few  weeks, 
then  cut  them  out  to  preserve  the  strength  of  the  rest  of  the  plant.  Any  solid 
green  branches  should  also  be  removed  as  they  are  stronger,  with  an 
abundance  of  chlorophyll  that  will  eventually  turn  the  entire  plant  solid  green.  (C) 
Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #115..  H.  fraterna.. Described  on  page  28.  This  photo  arrived  labeled  H. 
fraterna,  however,  based  on  the  foliage  that  is  visable  in  the  background,  it 
appears  to  be  a photo  of  H.  meliflua.  The  flowers  of  these  two  species  are 
identical  (at  least  to  the  naked  eye),  and  the  only  apparent  difference  is  in  the 
size  of  the  leaves.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #116..  H.  diversifolia  B..The  plant  pictured  here,  has  been  called  by  this 
name  for  years.  No  one  knows  for  sure  what  species  it  is,  though  it  has  been 
recognized  that  it  is  not  a part  of  the  diversifolia  family  complex,  and  it’s  uncertain 
whether  it  has  ever  been  published.  No  literature  has  ever  been  found  that 
totally  matches  the  description  of  this  plant.. .leaves  that  approach  the  size  of  a 
dinner  plate,  very  thick  and  rigid,  splashed  liberally  with  white  or  silver, 
sometimes  with  gray.  The  stems  of  this  plant  are  immense  and  with  age,  can 
reach  the  diameter  of  a broomstick.  The  bloom  spurs  (peduncles)  are  purple, 
usually  about  3 to  4 inches  long,  1 inch  or  more  in  diameter,  becoming  thicker 
toward  the  flowering  end,  very  rigid,  and  grow  straight  up.  The  individual  flowers 
are  small  to  medium  in  size  with  up  to  60  or  more  in  each  cluster,  forming  an 
umbel  of  white  or  pale  yellow  flowers  as  large  as  a softball.  Smells  nice.  Very 
good  bloomer!  (M)  Photo  by  George  French 

Picture  #117..  H.  mitrata..A  real  odd-ball!  The  foliage  of  this  plant  grows  in 
streaks  and  spurts  of  tightly  packed,  cabbage-like  leaves,  then  a section  of  long 
internodes  with  the  leaves  spaced  out  over  several  feet  of  stem,  then  another 
batch  of  tightly  packed  cabbage-like  leaves.  The  flowers  normally  grow  out  of 
the  center  of  the  tightly  packed  leaves,  and  are  small  but  spectacular  in 
appearance  as  the  petals  reflex  sharply  and  force  the  tall  crown  to  protrude  even 
more  dramatically.  The  name  mitrata,  in  fact,  means  turban-like,  and  is  a 
suitable  name  for  this  species.  (M)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #118..  H.  curtisii/pruinosa.The  name  of  this  plant  is  written  here  in  this 
manner  because  at  this  point  it  is  being  sold  under  both  of  these  names.  No 
matter  what  name  it  eventually  winds  up  with,  this  is  a priority  plant  for  every 
Hoya  collector.  It  is  an  absolute  darling,  with  tiny,  thick,  silver  splashed  leaves 
and  an  abundance  of  adorable,  sharply  reflexed,  creamy  yellow,  or  buff  colored 
flowers  with  a high  crown  and  a red  center.  (M)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #119..  H.  pubera.. Another  Hoya  whose  identification  needs  more  study. 
This  plant  was  sold  for  several  years  with  the  name  of  H.  bilobata  "Ben  Hardy" 


105 


and  was  thought  to  have  been  collected  in  Java.  The  leaves  are  dime  sized 
ovals  of  dark  green.  The  flowers  are  extremely  small,  and  difficult  to  see  with  the 
naked  eye.  Only  through  the  use  of  a magnifying  glass,  or  a high  powered 
macro  lens  of  a camera  do  the  intricate  details  of  these  tiny  flowers  become 
visible.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #120. .Gorgeous  variegated  foliage  of  an  H.  carnosa  clone  with  the 
"common  name"  of  Suzie  Q.  (C)  Photo  by  Chuck  Everson 

Picture  #121. .A  full  basket  of  H.  obovata  foliage.  Photo  by  Chuck  Everson 

Picture  #122..H.  obscura.. Showing  some  mahogany  colored  leaves.  Winter  sun 
will  turn  this  entire  plant  a beautiful  cordovan  brown  with  white  veins  and  green 
leaf  margins.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #123..  H.  carnosa.. Dark  blue  green  leaves  sprinkled  with  silver  or  white 
is  another  form  of  variegation  in  this  interesting  plant  genus.  (C)  Photo  by  Chuck 
Everson 

Picture  #124..  H.  kerrii,  the  sweetheart  Hoya  with  a twist.  Gorgeous  golden 
yellow  variegation  in  various  patterns  adorns  the  leaves  of  this  recently  collected 
plant  from  Thailand.  (M)  Photo  by  Chanin  Thorut 

Picture  #125..A  spectacular  basket  of  Hoya  bella  with  hundreds  of  umbels  of 
flowers  open.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #126..  H.  purpureofusca.The  big,  the  bold  and  the  beautiful!.  Foliage  of 
a young  plant  of  H.  purpureofusca  is  shown  here  for  comparison  to  the  plant  of 
H.  pubicalyx  cv.  ‘Pink  Silver’  (the  pink  silver  vine)  that  many  growers  still  have  in 
their  collections  incorrectly  labeled  with  this  name.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #127..  H.  ciliata..One  of  the  more  spectacular  Hoyas,  especially  in 
regards  to  color.  This  species  is  called  the  "Black  Hoya"  for  obvious  reasons. 
The  foliage  is  soft  and  velvety,  the  flowers  are  such  a deep  purple  that  they 
appear  to  be  black.  They  have  a golden  yellow  crown  and  a deep  purple  center. 
(M)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #128..  H.  chlorantha..  Unlike  the  variety  tutuilensis  (Picture  #93;,  aiese 
flowers  are  greenish  white  with  a darker  green  center  that  extends  almost  to  the 
ends  of  each  petal  tip.  Thin  wiry  stems  with  dark  green,  lance  shaped  leaves. 
(W)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 


106 


Picture  #129..  H.  lanceolata.. Practically  identical  to  H.  bella,  but  with  long,  lance 
shaped,  lacy  looking  foliage.  The  flowers  are  pure  white.  The  translucent  crown 
has  a dusty  rose  tint,  with  dark  rose  coloring  on  the  tips  and  base  of  each  coronal 
lobe.  (M)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #130..  H.  imbricata..A  weird  but  wonderful  Hoya  species  with  a most 
unusual  growth  pattern.  The  word  imbricate  means  overlapping  shingle  fashion, 
and  is  a perfect  description  of  the  manner  in  which  these  leaves  grow.  The 
stems  start  out  with  a pair  of  round,  opposite  leaves,  but  one  leaf  is  smaller  and 
aborts,  or  dies  off.  The  remaining  leaf  develops  roots  at  the  node  and  clings 
tightly  to  its  support.  A new  stem  begins  to  grow  from  this  point,  and  a new  pair 
of  opposite  leaves  form  very  close,  and  slightly  overlapping  the  older  leaf.. .aborts 
one,  and  the  process  goes  on  and  on.  The  flower  clusters  consist  of  20  or  so 
very  tiny  ball  shaped  flowers  that  are  pale  yellow  with  white  fuzz  on  the  petals. 
The  crown  is  golden  yellow  with  long  white  stamens  coming  out  of  the  center. 

(W)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #131..  H.  guppyii..Dark,  emerald  green  buds  open  to  reveal  gorgeous, 
saucer  shaped,  maroon  colored  flowers  that  are  1 inch  or  more  across  with  a 
white  crown.  The  under  side  of  this  flower  remains  emerald  green,  producing  a 
startling  impression.  Foliage  is  slightly  fuzzy,  as  are  all  Hoyas  in  this  Eriostemma 
section.  (W)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #132..  H.  sp.  USDA  #354241. .Another  candidate  for  the  wax  museum. 
The  large,  saucer  shaped  flowers  are  an  iridescent,  reddish  brown  color  that 
have  the  appearance  of  being  buffed  to  a high  shine.  The  crown  is  yellow  with 
the  coronal  lobes  being  almost  completely  round,  and  with  a dark  brown  stain  at 
their  base.  The  foliage  is  medium  gray/green  and  slightly  fuzzy.  (W)  Photo  by 
Ted  Green 

Picture  #133..  H leucorhoda..A  compact  growing  plant  with  clean  looking,  glossy 
green,  slightly  heart  shaped  foliage.  The  flowers  are  medium  sized,  white  or  buff 
colored  and  have  a very  waxy,  golden  yellow  crown  with  a dark  brownish  orange 
center.  This  is  a neat  plant!  (W)  Photo  by  Ted  Green 

Picture  #134..  H.  australis  ssp.  rupicola..A  small  growing  plant  from  Australia. 
This  species  grows  in  the  sandy  desert  among  rocks.  It  does  not  twine,  but 
sprawls  and  scrambles  across  nearby  rocks  and  boulders.  The  name  ‘rupicola’ 
means  "rock  dweller".  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Way  man 

Picture  #135..  H.  ruscifolia.The  identity  for  this  plant  is  doubtful.  The  foliage  is 
practically  identical  to  the  plant  we  call  H.  bilobata  (not  at  all  like  the  leaves  of 
ruscus,  or  "The  Butcher’s  Broom"  that  the  plant  is  supposed  to  resemble).  The 
flowers  are  very  tiny.  (W)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


107 


Picture  #136..  H.  Sp.  New  Guinea  Gold. .Another  very  large,  very  waxy  species 
in  the  Eriostemma  section.  As  the  name  suggests,  the  flowers  are  a gorgeous 
golden  yellow.  (W)  Photo  by  Bob  Stone 

Picture  #137..  H.  Sp.  USDA  354246. .A  Hoya  nicholsoniae  with  copper  colored 
flowers  and  darker,  coppery  pink  stripes  down  each  petal.  The  foliage  also  has 
copper  tones.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #138..  H.  engleriana..A  true  miniature  plant  with  leaves  that  resemble 
green  colored  grains  of  rice.  The  flowers  are  quite  large  for  such  a small  plant, 
pure  white  and  with  a dark  crimson  red  crown.  Many  people  are  still  getting  H. 
serpens  with  this  name  on  the  label.  (M)  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #139..  H.  motoskeLA  hanging  tomato  cage  is  a lovely  treatment  for  this 
old  and  reliable  friend.  (C)  Photographer  unknown 

Picture  #140..  H.  sp.  HSI  #458. .A  full  view  of  this  darling  little  plant,  and  it’s 
foliage.  (M)  Photo  by  Henry  Raphael 

Picture  #141..  H.  multiflora..A  clone  with  gorgeous  variegated  foliage  has  arrived 
on  the  scene.  (W)  Photo  by  Bob  or  Margie  Stone 

Picture  #142..  H.  nicholsoniae. .This  clone  has  been  sold  for  many  years  as  the 
small  leaved  H.  cinnamomifolia.  It  is  not  related  to  that  species,  nor  does  it 
resemble  it  in  any  way.  The  flowers  are  waxy,  and  have  a definite  tan  or  brown 
tint  to  them.  The  foliage  turns  a gorgeous  mahogany  color  in  winter  sun.  (M) 
Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 

Picture  #143..  A grouping  of  Hoya  plants  at  the  County  Fair,  including  a 
variegated  Indian  Rope  Hoya,  and  a basket  of  H.  megalaster  with  3"  blooms. 
Photo  by  Jim  Wayman 

Picture  #144..  H.  camosa.The  old  fashioned  "wax  vine".  This  species  has  been 
in  cultivation  in  this  country  for  a hundred  years  or  more,  and  is  just  as  popular 
today  as  it  was  back  in  Grandmothers  time.  How  long  can  a Hoya  live?  This 
question  is  answered  in  part,  by  this  25  year  old  plant  which  has  had  close  to 
1000  cuttings  taken  for  propagation  over  the  years.  Photo  by  Ann  Wayman 


108 


THE  PICTURE  GALLERY 


I 


{1}  H.  australis 


{2}  H.  lacunosa 


{3}  H.  arnottiana 


{4}  H.  pubicalyx  ‘Fresno  Beauty’ 


{5}  H.  kenejiana 


{6}  H.  multiflora 


{7}  H.  kerrii 


{8}  H. serpens 


{9}  H.  acuta  (Green  Form)  {10}  H.  sp.  tanna 


{11}  H.  pachyclada 


{12}  H.  sp.  Bangkok  # 4 


{13}  H.  obovata 


{14}  H.  obovata  (Foliage) 


{15}  H.  fuscomarginata 


{16}  H.  Mini  Belle 


{17}  H.Sp.  HSI  # 458 


{18}  H.  diversifolia  B. 


IV 


{19}  H.  polystachya 


{20}  H.  sp.  Cbiang  Mai 


{21}  H.  loherii  (Foliage) 


{22}  H.  loherii 


{23}  H.  sp.  F-484 


{24}  H.  littoralis 


V 


{29}  H.  pubicalyx  ‘Bright  One’  {30}  H.  ischnopus 


VI 


{31}  H.  bella 


{33}  H.  shepherdii 


{35}  H.  sp.  CI-1244 


{32}  H.  nicholsoniae  # IML37 


{34}  H.  citrina 


{36}  H.  nicholsoniae  # IML39 


VII 


{37}  H.  cinnomomifolia 


{38}  H.  cumingiana 


{39}  H.  gracilis 


{40}  H.  neoebudica 


{41}  H.  pubicalyx  ‘Pink  Silver’ 


{42}  H.  padangensis 


VIII 


{44}  H.  camphorifolia 


{43}  H.sp.  PNG  4 


{45}  H.  inconspicua 


{46}  H.  purpureofusca 


{47}  H.  caudata  var.  crassifolia 


{48}  H.  odorata 


IX 


{49}  H.  sp.  PNG  1 


{50}  H.  pottsii 


{51}  H.  erythrina 


{52}  H.  sp.  IML33 


{53}  H.  diversifolia 


{54}  H.  pseudolitoralis 


X 


{55}  H.  limoniaca 


{56}  H.  sp.  CMF-8 


{57}  H.  bilobata 


{58}  H.  micrantha 


{59}  H.  sp.  PNG  6 


{60}  H.  poolei 


XI 


{61}  H.  tsangii 


{62}  H.  merrillii 


{63}  H.  diptera 


{64}  H.  affinis 


{65}  H.  acuta  (Bronze) 


{66}  H.  darvvinii 


XII 


{67}  H.fungii 


{69}  H.  sp.  Gold  Star 


{68}  H.  pubicalyx  ‘chimera’ 


{70}  H.  carnosa  “Kr inkle  8’ 


{71}  H.  sp.  BSI-1 


{72}  H.  sp.  Sabah  Malaysia 


XIII 


{73}  H.  archboldiana  (Red  Form) 


{74}  H.  sp.WMZ 


{75}  H.  finlaysonii 


{76}  H.  polyneura 


{77}  H.  naumanii 


{78}  H.  nummularioides 


XIV 


{79}  H.  coriacea 


{80}  H. carnosa 


{81}  H.  plicata 


{82}  H.  motoskei 


{83}  H.  carnosa  ‘Dapple  Gray’ 


{84}  H.  carnosa  ‘Krimson  Queen’  (Foliage) 


XV 


{85}  H. sanae 


{86}  H.  meliflua 


{87}  H.  macgillivrayi 


{88}  H.  megalaster 


{89}  H.  linearis 


{90}  H.  sp.  USDA  # 354239 


XVI 


{91}  H.  sp.  Kutcbing  Borneo  IML  232 


{92}  H.  archboldiana  (Pink  Form) 


{93}  H.  chlorantha  var.  tutuilensis 


{94}  H.  sp.  Bangkok  Red 


{95}  H.  eitapensis 


{96}  H.  kentiana 


XVII 


{97}  H.  sussuella  (ariadna) 


{98}  H.  DAV-817 


{99}  H.  erythrostemma 


{100}  H.  dimorpha 


{101}  H.  incrassata 


{102}  H.  multiflora  (Philippines) 


XVIII 


{103}  H.  sp.  Sabah  Malaysia  IML  557 


{104}  H.  pauciflora 


{105}  H.  caudata  var.  crassifolia 


{106}  H.  sp.  Bogar 


{107}  H.  sp.  DAV-819 


{108}  H.  serpens  (growing  on  log) 


XIX 


{109}  H.  sp.  New  Guinea  White 


{110}  H.  giobuiosa 


{111}  H.  imperialis 


{112}  H.  densifolia 


{113}  H.  pentaphlebia 


{114}  H.  carnosa  variegata 


XX 


{115}  H.  fraterna 


{116}  H.  diversifolia  B 


{117}  H.  mitrata 


{118}  H.  curtisii/pruinosa 


{119}  H.  pubera 


{120}  H.  carnosa  ‘Suzie  Q’ 


XXI 


{121}  H.  obovata  (Foliage) 


{122}  H.  obscura  & foliage 


{123}  H.  carnosa  (Foliage) 


{124}  H.  kerrii  (Variegated) 


{125}  H.  bella  {126}  H.  purpureofusca 


XXII 


{127}  H.  ciliata 


{128}  H.  chlorantha 


{129}  H.  lanceolata 


{130}  H.  imbricata 


{131}  H.  guppyii 


{132}  H.  Sp.  USDA#  354241 


XXIII 


{133}  H.  leucorhoda 


{134}  H.  australis  ssp.  rupicola 


{135}  H.  ruscifolia 


{136}  H.  Sp.  New  Guinea  Gold 


{137}  H.  Sp.  USDA  # 354246 


{138}  H.  engleriana 


XXIV 


{139}  H.  motoskei 


{140}  H.  Sp.  HSI-458 


{141}  H.  multiflora  (variegata) 


{142}  H.  nicholsoniae 


{143}  H.  compacta  & megalaster 


{144}  H.  carnosa 


XXV 


Glossary 


Acid.. .A  reference  to  a pH  level  below  7.0. 
Acidity  is  an  indication  of  the  absence  of  lime 
in  potting  mix  or  water. 

Active  growth  period. ..The  period  when  a 
plant  begins  to  put  on  new  growth,  increases 
in  size,  and  generally  produces  flowers. 

Alkaline. ..A  reference  to  a pH  level  above 
7.0.  Alkalinity  is  an  indication  of  the  presence 
of  lime. ..The  opposite  of  acid. 

Alternate.. .A  reference  to  the  placement  of 
leaves  on  a stem.  Alternate  leaves  are  borne 
singly  at  different  heights,  more  or  less 
alternating  from  one  side  of  the  stem  to  the 
other. 

Anther... The  part  of  a flower  that  produces 
pollen  (the  male  sex  cells). 

Axil.. .The  angle  between  a leaf  or  leafstalk 
and  the  stem  that  carries  it. 

Bigeneric.. .A  reference  to  a hybrid  plant 
originating  from  the  crossing  of  parents  from 
two  distinct  genera. 

Calyx. ..The  outermost  part  of  a flower.  The 
calyx  is  usually  green,  and  has  a tough 
leathery  consistency  that  protects  the 
developing  flower  within. 

Chlorosis.. .A  nutritional  deficiency  in  plants 
that  results  in  leaves  becoming  sickly  yellow 
or  white  but  even  the  tiniest  veins  will  remain 
green. 

Compound... Usually  a reference  to  leaves 
that  are  divided  into  two  or  more  segments. 

Corolla. ..The  petals  of  a flower.  Usually  the 
most  highly  decorative  and  colorful  part  of  a 
flower. 

Cultivar... Normally  a variety  of  plant  that 
has  originated  in  cultivation  rather  than  in  the 
wild.  The  names  of  cultivars  are  generally 
written  in  modern  language  (not  Latin),  and 


are  correctly  enclosed  within  single  quotation 
marks. 

Cutting... A portion  of  stem,  usually  with 
leaves  left  intact,  that  is  removed  from  a plant 
and  treated  in  such  a way  as  to  produce  new 
roots  and  eventually  grows  into  a new  plant. 

Epiphyte. ..A  type  of  plant  that  uses  the 
branches  and  bark  of  other  plants  as  a 
growing  site.  Epiphytes  do  not  feed  off  of 
their  host  plant,  so  are  not  parasitic. 

Flower.. .The  plant  organ  that  is  specialized 
for  sexual  reproduction,  in  which  pollen  from 
the  male  part  (the  stamen)  is  transferred  to 
the  ovaries  of  the  female  part  (pistil)  so  that 
fertilization  takes  place  and  seed  develops. 

Globose. ..A  ball  or  globe  shape.  In  Hoyas, 
globose  refers  to  the  perfectly  round  shape  of 
some  flower  umbels. 

Inflorescence. ..A  general  term  for  the 
flowering  part  of  a plant.  Most  commonly 
used  in  reference  to  flowers  that  form  in 
umbels  or  clusters. 

Latex.. .A  milky  sap  produced  by  many 
plants  but  most  notable  in  the  Asclepiadaceae 
or  milk  weed  family. 

Margin. ..In  plants  the  word  margin  is  most 
often  used  to  describe  the  border  or  edge  of  a 
leaf. 

Midrib.. .The  central  rib  of  a leaf,  which 
generally  projects  out  from  the  leaf  surface, 
runs  its  length,  and  divides  it  into  equal  halves. 

Opposite. ..A  reference  to  the  placement  of 
leaves  on  a stem:  The  leaves  are  borne  in 
opposite  pairs  along  the  length  of  the  stem. 

Palmate. ..Literally  "hand  shaped".  In 
Hoyas  this  term  is  generally  applied  to  the 
prominent  hand  shaped  vein  patterns  of  some 
leaves,  and  not  to  the  shape  of  the  leaf  itself. 


XXVI 


Petiole. ..The  leafstalk  or  stem  by  which 
leaves  are  attached  to  the  plant. 

pH... Literally,  the  hydrogen-ioh 
concentration  in  soil,  potting  medium,  water 
etc.  The  pH  scale  is  used  as  a means  of 
measuring  the  acidity  or  alkalinity  of  any  of 
these  substances.  The  scale  extends  from  0 
to  1 4,  with  pure  water  at  a pH  of  7.0  as  the 
standard.  Above  7.0  is  considered  alkaline, 
below  7.0  is  considered  acid. 

Pistil... The  female  organ  of  a flower, 
consisting  of  an  ovary,  a stigma  and  a style. 

Root  ball. ..The  mass  of  roots  and  potting 
medium  that  are  held  together  when  removed 
from  a container  by  millions  of  tiny  hair  roots. 

Sessile. ..Without  a stalk.  A reference  to 
leaves  or  flowers  that  arise  directly  from  the 
plant  stem. 

Spur.. .In  Hoyas  the  term  refers  to  the  short 
flowering  branches,  or  peduncles  that  remain 
on  the  plant  through  several  seasons  and 
continue  to  flower  time  after  time  from  the 
same  location 


Stomata... The  microscopic  breathing  pores 
of  plants.  Usually  on  the  undersides  of  leaves. 

Succulent.. .Plants  that  have  fleshy  stems 
and  leaves  that  can  function  as  water  storing 
receptacles. 

Undulate. ..With  wavy  up-and-down 
margins.  This  term  is  normally  applied  to 
leaves,  but  can  also  be  used  to  describe 
wavy  flower  petals. 

Variegated... A reference  to  leaves 
(sometimes  flowers)  that  are  a combination  of 
two  or  more  colors  in  a splashed,  striped  or 
spotted  pattern. 

Variety.. .A  plant  that  is  different  from  the 
normal  type  species.  The  reference  to  variety 
as  used  by  modern  botanists,  refers  to 
variations  that  have  originated  in  the  wild. 
However,  the  word  is  frequently  applied  to 
variations  arising  in  cultivation,  which  should 
technically  be  called  cultivars.  Names  of  true 
varieties  are  correctly  written  in  Latin  and  are 
not  enclosed  in  quotation  marks. 


XXVII